2014 Car modifications

I finally dove head first into an LS based engine swap for the mustang. The swap has had a little bit of scope creep and is now basically a complete rebuild of the car. New engine, trans, clutch, wiring, fuel system, cooling system, front and rear suspension.

Over the past couple of weeks, I have been able to get the following installed.
Tubular K-member, adjustable lower control arms, Koni Adjustable struts and coil overs, steering rack bushings, steering shaft, bump steer adjustable tie rod ends, camber-caster plates, and a relocated sway bar.

The engine is just about ready to be placed into it's new home. A few minor alterations to the engine mounts, install the clutch and bellhousing, and it is ready to bolt in.

I have been too busy working on the car to take many photos, but I will try to spend some time to take a few and post them for your viewing pleasure.

I promised some photos. Here is the engine going in for the initial test fit.

I found a minor interference with the C6 pan and the K-member. It is holding the engine about an inch above the mounting tabs. Looks like I need to source an F-body pan and parts to make this thing fit.

I made a little more progress over the weekend. The engine and trans are now in the car. Intake manifold was altered to allow for connection of the brake booster vac line. Engine harness is currently being altered and fitted to the engine.

Gramps, where's the rest of that clutch? That thing is tiny. It's a good thing you have three of them.

Red06 wrote: What engine is that? That rear port is interesting looking. I thought you said you were doing a turbo 4 cyl. Can't tell if that's a 4 or a 6 cyl.

It's a Ford Duratec I4, specifically a 2.5L i-VCT from a 2010 Escape. The back cylinder has a weird connection to the EGR path that makes things look funny at the header flange. Don't worry, the turbo will hide most of that.

Dropped the practice motor in the Mini Sunday. Guess I should have stopped and taken a picture but it went in too smooth. Obviously too much practice pulling it last year and not enough engine building skill.
Had to do a little re-wiring tonight before firing it up. Life is good. Got oil pressure and a satisfying rumble.

I am officially throwing in the towel on my attempt to have the car ready for this weekend. I have too much work to wrap up before it is even ready to fire up the engine for the first time. One thing I have learned over the last several years, is that rushing to get the car ready is a sure way to ruin a weekend.

Progress is still being made, it was just a bit too involved to wrap up in a month.

I am figuring out the exhaust BS now. It turns out that the Mustang LS swap headers do not work with the Griggs K-member without some modifications. Since it probably isn't a good idea to put 1"+ deep dimples in the primaries, I need to reroute a couple of tubes (#1,#2, and #3). Time to pull the brake booster and master cylinder to make room for the test fitting.

I'm not sure yet, but the #1 and #3 tubes may have to wrap around the K-member, and be attached with slip joints or custom flanges to make them removable.

Sounds like with the latest hiccup, you had no chance of getting it done anyway. Looking forward to seeing the final result at Grattan next month. See ya out there tomorrow.

I guess I should have expected issues like this. Who convinced me that this swap was going to be easy? Andy, hopefully you are taking notes, as I know this type of conversion has crossed your mind once or twice.

On a positive note, I just thought of an additional benefit to pulling the brake booster. It will make for easier access for fitting the clutch master cylinder.

bames wrote: Andy, hopefully you are taking notes, as I know this type of conversion has crossed your mind once or twice.

I am taking notes, and that conversion is every bit the monster job I thought it'd be. Exactly the reason I didn't attempt it - kudos to you Gramps for taking it on.

See you all in approximately 25 hours. But who's counting?

My brain has officially stopped thinking about work or anything work-related. It is unfortunate that I have a meeting (with the guy the firm is named after) that I cannot miss tomorrow...I am sure my performance will be stellar.

I have tried a couple of different stock manifold setups with no success. I'm not sure about the LS7 manifolds. I think the biggest issue with them would be steering shaft clearance. I have heard that the 2010 Camaro manifolds will fit, but I also heard that these swap headers fit, so who knows. I think the best course of action is to customize the Dynatechs and be done with it. I already have them, and modifying a couple of tubes shouldn't be too difficult.

I have dimpled them enough to fit now, but I am still thinking that I need to re-route these tubes. It turns out that it is just #1 and #2 that need some attention. The #2 primary will be relatively easy, as there is plenty of room to bring the tube toward the block. #1 will probably need to loop around the K-member to maintain steering shaft clearance, but there is a possibility of running it under #3 and down next to #5 (Assuming I can keep clearance for the spark plug wires).

It will have low door bars that run about the top of the seat cushions in height toward the kick panels. I think I'm also going to make tabs to connect the main hoop to the B-pillars at the upper seat belt mounts.

I have a set of LS2 (TBSS) and LS3 (C6) exhaust manifolds in the basement if you want to go that route.

I started the work on the header modifications. It was a bit nerve racking at first, nothing like buying a part and then cutting it into pieces. Thankfully the bandsaw made quick work of removing the collector and severing the primary in a spot suitable for welding.

Here are a couple of photos of the new tube routing. I now need to weld it up and re install the collector. I didn't take a photo of the original routing, but it ran along the #3 tube.

No noise or smoke generated yet. I was able to get both headers modified, just need to weld the collectors on and add the O2 bungs and flanges.
Due to the limited clearances around the K-member, I decided to go with solid mounts on the engine and trans. I fabricated these and installed them last weekend.
The next piece of the puzzle is going to be installing the clutch master cylinder. I hope to get to work on that early next week.

Thanks to Ken for spending the weekend wrenching, wiring, fabricating, etc. Thanks to the joint effort, the engine was fired up for the first time in its new home. Unfortunately, at idle it is only making around 10 psi of oil pressure. It is now time to pull it and open it up again. I'm not sure what it may be, but need to start looking as another event is going to slip by with it parked in the garage on stands.

Andy,
Ken did not install the oil pump. But then again, I was involved in installing his pump so the oring is still in question. I know it was in place, but i may have kinked it or not fully seated it.

Cisler,
It already has a new pump, so I'm not sure what the issue is. It is pumping fluid as witnessed by removing the cooler line and the pressure transducer, but not building pressure. Suspecting either an improperly sealed pickup tube, or a stuck pressure bypass. I won't know for sure until I get a chance to dig into it. This wont be for a few days, as I am travelling for work three days this week.

I think I figured out the oil pressure issue.
It looks like i should have researched the AFM disabling requirements a little more. I reused the AFM valley cover with the VLOM solenoids removed. I was thinking that the AFM towers, which i blocked, supplied oil to the VLOM. WRONG!! The oil is provided from the oil passage that contains the oil pressure sending unit, then it goes to the VLOM solenoid and finally through the AFM tower to the DEAC lifter. Since the cover had the solenoids removed, the oil is dumping directly into the lifter valley.

No restriction, NO pressure.

At least it looks like it will be an easy fix that doesn't require pulling the engine.