So I guess a model made with a Real Steyr Receiver and a Real Bulldog Pistol would then be called "Real Real"

OR REAL.

So real has a real Bulldog and REAL has a real Steyr and Bulldog in it's making...

Add in a real ammo housing and clip and your now REAL with real...

Or something like that...

And for more real add in the speaker binding post...and a real cut down S&W 38 trigger...

Of course that IS as far as anyone can go..the side covers and outer grip frame, butt plate and grips and the front plug in the Steyr receiver all have to be made by hand as there seems to be no found items for them.

And I cannot find the old style LED holders nor the on/off switch..either.

So I guess a model made with a Real Steyr Receiver and a Real Bulldog Pistol would then be called "Real Real"

OR REAL.

So real has a real Bulldog and REAL has a real Steyr and Bulldog in it's making...

Add in a real ammo housing and clip and your now REAL with real...

Or something like that...

And for more real add in the speaker binding post...and a real cut down S&W 38 trigger...

Of course that IS as far as anyone can go..the side covers and outer grip frame, butt plate and grips and the front plug in the Steyr receiver all have to be made by hand as there seems to be no found items for them.

And I cannot find the old style LED holders nor the on/off switch..either.

Rich

LOL...Get "Real" man!

For one that uses a real Bulldog with a Gunsmith made barrel I would suggest "Live Ammo Firing". We could also be nit picky and debate whether the parts are the correct vintage or not too. I think we can streamline the descriptives somewhat, but if we do it too much they will not work. I say we nix the word "real" except in maybe saying it is has a "Real" gun base. "Static" means non-moving and should only apply to the solid kits without moving parts at all, such as the "stunt" versions.

Also I want to reiterate...

Quote:

We are in no way promoting or encouraging any one in making a "Live Ammo Firing", or "Real Gun Base" version without the help of an experienced Gun Smith, and without checking your own local gun laws and restrictions. This is a VERY DANGEROUS thing to mess around with. You, or someone else could easily end up in the Hospital, Jail, or the Morgue. We will not take any liability if someone is too foolish to ignore this and common sense when dealing with firearms.

Yeah, "real shooters" says to me that you can fire live rounds out of it. You can shoot it.

"Real steel non firing" means it's made with the real guns, but no go bang bang.

Whatever terminology is used, many will still misunderstand. That's just part and parcel to the hobby and to gun collecting, and to prop collecting. I remember a story on the RPF about someone asking a person with a big star wars light saber display why they have so many silencers.

As of now, my shooter consists of a Tomenosuke Pro Assembly Kit on real CA Bulldog 44 SPL. and I have no doubts that it will fire accurately, flawlessly and without a hitch. This thing is SOLID until I machine my newly aquired SL to go on top!

Thank you for remembering me! Yes, mine is a good shooter. I'm sorry I don't have a vid. Not difficult to discharge, just a small challenge to control it carefully as the weight is quite substantial. Having said that I was firing a Desert Eagle .50 and a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan .454 the other day and they were more of a challenge!

If I can get hold of some more ammo, I will try and do a good vid for you.

Just saw your post about not being able to find the old style LED holders nor the on/off switch. Interesting you should say that because I have tried for many years and still cannot either. What bugs me up is the mystery blaster in the case posted all those years ago. Agreed it was not genuine but I am becoming more convinced that ammo clip must be an original.

Wow, thanks for the love Hiro and B, much appreciated!
When I decided to bravely attempt refinishing the receiver, I tried going for the Toku approach by following his instructions. Sadly, I'm way too impatient to spend a whooping 6 or 7 hours polishing away. My hat's way off to Toku-san for his outstanding Blaster finish accomplishments!
The problem I kept facing is I always polish away the color, leaving the finish uneven in places which bugs the Hell out of me! My experience with cold bluing has always been hit or miss though, but often more miss. I'm also somewhat of, or at least I try to be somewhat a perfectionist which is quite aggravating when the end result isn't up to par.
I think I'll go with powder coating both Side Covers, Sight Rod, Binding Post, Outer Grip Frame and bottom of the Butt Plate in Gloss Black! Anyone ever try that method yet, those ovens can't be hot enough to melt the parts can they?
Happy Independence Day to all,
Damion_________________
Damion: ogrotesque1