1. Top Burmese

Given the profound popularity of the cuisine of its neighboring states, it's surprising that Burmese food has been a relative outlier up until now. Top Burmese aims to change that. The nan gyi thoke, or chicken noodle salad ($8.50), is the best value and boldest flavor on the menu.

2. Little Bean

If the point is just to prove that chickpea ice cream can be done, Little Bean is a success. The ice cream—or bean cream or ice bean or whatever—has a texture so thick and creamy, it could almost be mistaken for gelato.

3. Tekka Bar

Portland apparently has some kind of culinary exchange going on with Las Vegas. A year ago, we sent Lardo and Pok Pok to the desert, and now Sin City returns the favor by gifting us hand-rolled sushi from one of its top restaurateurs. Tekka Bar just opened downtown, slinging owner Takashi Segawa's much drooled-over lobster rolls and yellowtail sashimi, plus a well-curated selection of sake.

(Rocky Burnside)

4. Farm Spirit

Portland has no shortage of vegan junk food. But vegan fine dining is a rarity. Chef Aaron Adams' seasonal, constantly changing menu puts local produce to clever and surprising uses, like caramelized black garlic as a convincing chocolate ganache, or "ravioli" made with chard for noodles.

5. Matt’s BBQ Tacos

3207 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-956-7455.

The new venture from the pitmaster behind the city's best Texas barbecue is almost comically perfunctory, but nothing much matters beyond the namesake chef's magical experiments in smoky-sweet protein. Our top pick is the brisket, which is packed with Vicedomini's trademark notes of brassy, woody flavors with a melt-in-your-mouth texture and just the perfect amount of char on the edges.