What is A Reef Aquarium? Lighting?
Filtration?

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
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eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
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eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
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eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

What is a reef aquarium? A reef set-up can be defined in at
least three ways; 1) by the organisms it employs and sustains, 2)
it's refined equipment (in particular filtration and lighting),
and lastly, 3) as a function of the high, consistent water quality
the first demands and the second produces.

Reef life is the a priori cause of why aquarists strove so
long to ascertain just what it would/does/will take to keep such
systems. The beautiful corals and several related stinging-celled
animal groups, live algae, sponges, crustaceans, mollusks, the m?ange
that makes up "live-rock" and "live-sand" and
oh-so-many more used to virtually impossible to keep. My personal
odyssey in the hobby, science and business of captive aquatic life
spans the recent decades of these endeavors; the 1960's forward.
I can remember whole tanks, indeed shipments of marine invertebrates
"melting down" due to mysterious "water quality",
filtration, lighting, who-knew-what reasons.

Modern reef systems go beyond simply keeping the more delicate
fish and non-fish life found on the world's reefs alive; they
actually grow and reproduce them; often at higher than natural
rates!

Improvements in marine-aquarium keeping equipment get equal
credit with livestock collecting and shipping techniques, and
hobbyist knowledge as determinants driving reef interest. Especially,
light fixtures and lamps/bulbs, and filter gear have allowed the
successful maintenance of reef-life. More than new technologies
developed for the ornamental fish industry per se, much of our
innovations have come from borrowing from other fields.
Magnetic-driven fluid-moving pumps with non-corrosive volutes,
impellers, seals and shafts came to aquariums by way of the
chemical-handling fields. True full-spectrum fluorescent lamps like
Vita-lites ™, were introduced back in the sixties for indoor
gardening and industrial uses. Similarly, wet-dry or trickle-filter
applications are borrowed from turn-of-the-century municipal
sewage-treatment principles. Regardless of where they come from, good
ideas are good ideas; and these and many more have come to us from
totally unrelated fields.

A true oxymoron of reefs, wild and kept is their chemical and
physical polar nature; they're both dynamic and homeostatic. Reef
aquarists must employ all the tricks available to them; careful d?or
selection, sparse , appropriate livestock with careful feeding,
diligent maintenance… to provide optimized, consistent water
quality.

Due to their geographical positions and biota reef systems are
typified as being "stable", "self-adjusting" and
"nutrient-poor". The stereotypical reef habitat (there are
several classifications of their diverse ecoclines) does receive a
pretty regular amount of solar insolation, displays a narrow range of
thermal variation, chemical make-up, and other physical factors. Such
regularity is more than desirable in a captive reef environment; it
is requisite. Temperature, salinity, pH, ammonia/nitrite/nitrates
used to be the only water-quality testing concerns of marine
aquarists. With reefs we've added reduction-oxidation, electrical
current, ultraviolet radiation, phosphates, silicon, calcium, and
more.

What is "Reef" Filtration? Rather than any given
technique, filtering for reef system's involves various
strategies that result in homogeneous, clean, well-oxygenated water.
Almost always, reef filtration includes vigorous, non-linear (i.e.
chaotic) circulation, generated by one or more fluid-moving pumps
and/or powerheads. Typical turnovers are several times per hour;
there is no practical limit. Actual filter modes, media and
containers are highly variable. Separate sumps/refugia, some fitted
with wet-dry/trickle media, rock or sand, protein-skimmer/foam
fractionation, re-dox/ozone/ultraviolet systems, calcium reactors,
chemical contactors… There are many individual and confluent
schools of how to go; Jaubert/NNR (Natural Nitrate Reduction), Berlin
methods, electrical and chemical filtration modes… Canister,
pressurized, high-tech, low-tech, no-tech… All with their own
adherents and acolytes. Are any better than the others? You bet;
depending on YOUR application, YOUR pocketbook, and YOUR penchant for
tinkering and adjusting. Take a look through your livestock fish
store (LFS; yes, another acronym), and the hobby literature.
What's hot and available changes each issue. As a conscientious
reef consumer, you are compelled to study up and keep current. Just
"keep your eye on the prize"; remember, what you are
seeking is the most consistent, high-quality water at the lowest
hassle and cost.

A few constants (in general). Though I worked for Earl Kennedy
in the Philippines in the sixties,

and have seen numerous examples of "live-rock only"
systems in Indonesia and elsewhere in the intervening years, most
reef-keepers will employ a protein skimmer, aka foam fractionator as
their reef filtration principal component. Choose well. Just because
it says "venturi" on the label, does not make a given
brand, make or model better than one that is not. And, no, price is
no good indication of value or relative functionality. Talk with your
dealers and other practicing "reefers" (even if you're
"out in the boonies", they're accessible via the
internet); they are your best source of current, accurate,
significant and meaningful information.

Better "live rock" and sand is worth the cost. Which is
which? Study and decide for yourself. Are all those meters, dosers
and pumps necessary? No, but reliable testing and delivery gear can
be of great service to those who will employ it properly. Just as
with any tool, neglect or inappropriate use is worse than having none
at all. There are only good pumps and powerheads, and "the
rest"; you want only the former. One's that are adequately
powerful pressure/volume wise, chemically inert, serviceable and
reliable.

What about light and lighting in the reef aquarium? Light
is very important to reef life. Even for non-photosynthetic organisms
the regularity of illumination is of consequence; much of their
behavior and endogenous rhythms are tied to light cycling.

There are three aspects of light that concern reef hobbyists;
quality, quantity and duration. Photoquality is a
question of the "kinds" of light; wavelengths principally.
Some radiation bandwidths are toxic, such as far-end ultraviolet. For
algae and livestock that harbors endosymbiotic algae, such as many of
the true corals, sufficient light of certain wavelengths is necessary
to drive the light reaction of photosynthesis.

Photo-quantity is a matter of the intensity or brightness
(apparent or not) of light. The number of photons is as important as
their wavelength; not enough light, insufficient photosynthesis and
way too little, everybody bumping into each other.

Photo-duration is the periodicity of light cycling. Regular
on-off light/dark periods are important, and easily achieved with
simple to complex timing mechanisms. Gradually turning on and off
some lighting is preferable to all on/off, and some sophisticated
schemes can mimic diurnal sunniness, moonshine, even every now and
then cloudiness!

Happily, there are a few different methods of providing proper light
to captive reefs. Most notably, metal halides (MH) and various formats
of full-spectrum fluorescents (regular, high, and very-high outputs,
compacts). These devices and some more novel types are utilized to
provide reef set-ups with adequate quality and quantity light
spectra.

David; what do you think? Too simplistic? Is this about the
level of information and reading level you have in mind? Am going to
crank out my first feature for you in a few… how 'bout:
Get thee to a
Refugium? Okay!

Reef Systems: An Overall
Picture:

At the pinnacle of demands for optimum and consistent
water quality are so-called reef systems. These units can be
distinguished on the basis of their gear; specialized lighting and
filtration and/or the full-spectrum of life they ideally support.

There are few human-made works of art (I can't think
of any) that compare with a full-blown tropical reef set up, with
incredible shapes, colors, patterns in algae, fishes and invertebrates,
all mixing and moving in their ways.

There are no "secrets" to producing and
keeping such a collection; only a few steadfast rules regarding
lighting, filtration-results, and set-up. We'll cover these in
turn.

Reef aquariums are not for everyone; they are expensive
to build-out, furnish, populate and maintain, time-consuming, and of
types of marine systems, those most prone to "disaster". For
these reasons and more, I implore you to practice on the less-demanding
set-ups we've discussed so far, and to read some of the several excellent specialty books in this
field before going further.

Light/Lighting:

Largely depending on what kinds of photosynthetic
organisms, and how hard you want to "drive" them, the
intensity and quality of light is a function of arranging a mix of
full-spectrum fluorescent lamps and fixtures, in whatever output
formats. As a matter of looks, metal halides and other novel
illumination may be considered for increasing system brightness and
human appreciation.

Study of the variety and species of reef life available
to you will reveal that some organisms are near-surface or deeper-water
that require more/less light. They should be placed accordingly so that
they neither "burn" or fade from lack of light.

Filters/Filtration:

Going out and measuring water quality parameters in the
wild, what do we find? Not surprisingly very high and constant pH,
conductivity, Redox, dissolved oxygen... and virtually no
"metabolites" or chemical nutrients (ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, cresols, phenols, phosphate). Why? For one, because of
currents that vigorously mix the air, beat
calcareous materials into solution; that by themselves and
'feeding' photosynthetic organisms (mainly planktonic algae)
raise the "desired" physical/chemical values. Currents
otherwise "blow pollutants/nutrients away" into the
"sink" which is the world's oceans.

Secondly, in synergy with the action of the oceans
currents, the sum-total action of living processes on the reef absorb,
web, net, accumulate and distribute what they can from the non-living
world and each other.

What this means to the aquarist is that their artificial
filtration must be vigorous and exacting in removal of excess
materials/chemicals from the water. There are two approaches or ways of
readily accomplishing these ends. Let me tell you of the one I was part
of as a boy first.

My initial exposure to "reef-keeping" occurred
in the mid-sixties as a worker bee for a Philippine wholesaler. I saw
the large (for the time), a few hundred gallon concrete and glass tanks
of Earl Kennedy in Manila, stocked with live rock, corals, some other
invertebrates, with a few fishes. How was this miracle of keeping all
these animals alive accomplished? Lollipop's (Earl's pet name)
approach to reef-keeping was extensive (as
opposed to modern system's intensive); we
used "natural" lighting; he had very sparsely populated tanks
with Spartan feeding.

We would go out and collect the planktonic food with
window screens hung over the side of a panga (boat) sieving out what we
could from the surface. Mr. Kennedy would feed very little of this
daily.

Current "intensive" reef filter technologies
include variations on the theme of wet-dry trickle filters,
"Berlin" skimmer as-a-principal or only filter,
algal-scrubbing adjunct, and other live rock/algae/sand formats. These
systems are crowded with life, much more than earlier versions.

Circulation:

Though there are many sub-types of reef systems,
some with a focus on organisms not found at the water's surface,
some "cold-water", none should be denied the benefits of
energetic water flow. Some writers endorse the use of "extra"
or alternate fluid moving mechanisms not associated with filtration;
whatever you utilize, make it brisk. Reef
organisms are simulated by strong flow, and water movement serves to
diffuse and distribute oxygen and wastes. Though there are many
sub-types of reef systems, some with a focus on organisms not found at
the water's surface, some "cold-water", none should be
denied the benefits of energetic water flow. Some writers endorse the
use of "extra" or alternate fluid moving mechanisms not
associated with filtration; whatever you utilize, make it brisk. Reef organisms are simulated by strong
flow, and water movement serves to diffuse and distribute oxygen and
wastes.

Live
Rock/Sand:

An integral part of all reef systems is
the use of calcareous rock and/or sand (see
photo). This catch-all "live" and non-living material
performs several critically important functions; in reality, it
is what makes the system a reef.

Chemically and physically the living
and non-living components of this 'decor' ameliorate water
quality. Calcareous matter buffers the pH. The biological processes
that all the types of life that are the "live" component of
the material render the system's water more
nutrient-free.

Biologically, "everything under the sun" comes
attached and in between the rock and sand. I've seen octopuses,
mantis shrimps, sponges, stinging-celled animals of every type, even fishes as "freebies" on/in live
rock. These communities can add and take away so much from your
intended livestock. They can be food as well as fodder for hobbyist
complaints. Stinging fireworms, fire corals, mantis shrimps and other
unwanted hitchhikers are as common as desirable forms in live rock. And
"sand" is not much "better/worse".

A few useful points concerning live rock and sand. They
should be calcareous, made up mainly of
aragonite/calcium carbonate, not sedimentary or siliceous. I've
seen non-"coral" based materials offered for sale in the
trade. Don't buy them, they don't do the jobs the calcareous
materials do.

Smell it, live rock/sand have an
"ocean" odor, clean and distinct, not rotting. See my further
notes below on Set-Up concerning live rock/sand.

Set-Up/Operation:

You are referred to the previous three
Sections on proper procedures for putting a marine system together. The
components may be different in specifics, but their operation and order
of introduction are the same.

Filtration:

The biggest difference here is really just a matter of
degrees. A functional "reef" system very readily processes
metabolites to non-noxious forms. Whatever design/engineering/operation
model you use, wet-dry-under-tank, "Berlin",
"algal-scrubbing", et al. technology the intent is to quickly
and thoroughly remove toxic biological products and by-products. The
biggest difference here is really just a matter of degrees. A
functional "reef" system very readily processes metabolites
to non-noxious forms. Whatever design/engineering/operation model you
use, wet-dry-under-tank, "Berlin",
"algal-scrubbing", et al. technology the intent is to quickly
and thoroughly remove toxic biological products and by-products.

Protein skimming

Is different here as well. As you'll recall, we
waited with fish-only systems to turn our fractionator on after nutrient cycling was established. In fish and/or
just invertebrate systems, this tool's use was initiated
between the cycling and the introduction of
non-fishes. With "reef" systems, the skimmer should be on
full-tilt before the introduction of any
livestock. Which conveniently brings us to:

Livestocking:

What is the largest living "thing" on this
planet? I'll give you a clue, it always has been the biggest life
form. Still stumped? We'll many Life-Science types consider barrier
reefs, with the GBR (Great Barrier Reef) of Australia, being the
current winner, to be "one large super-organism". My point
is, though western reductionistic notions define a separation between
those who believe them and the rest of their environment, the real
living world is inseparably, indistinguishably interlocked with
it's "outside". Live rock and sand are (part) of the
living reef in the wild and in captive systems.

Author's vary in their advice as to how and when to
place live rock and/or sand into a "reef" tank. Some suggest
putting it in a separate sump, placing part at a time,
"curing" it in a quarantine facility... Here's my take on
the issue; after setting up and checking the environmental gear and
controllers for a week as previously prescribed, place all or ostensibly all the live
rock/sand into the system. Do I suggest you rinse it in some of
the "aged" seawater? Sure, if it's real stinky; otherwise
just put it in. Live rock goes in over non-living "base" rock
(coral skeletons), the sand as your purveyor instructs.

A rapid "succession" of
events occurs, that can be a visual and olfactory shock to the
uninitiated. Be patient.

Next comes a waiting period, a few
weeks (generally 2-4) for those elements in the mix to die, eat, be
eaten; make the system ready for the addition of (more) invertebrates
and possibly algae and fishes.

With your test-kits you'll record a
more or less standard scenario of nutrient cycling, but with a twist;
if/when you detect the accumulation of nitrates, they will probably
start to decrease at some point. Welcome to
the world of real reef keeping.

Ongoing Maintenance:

A properly
set-up and stocked reef system is actually the closest thing marine
systems have to being maintenance-free. With attention to balancing the
living and non-living components of a reef set-up, they become
homeostatic. This being said, the average reef-keeper does spend a few
to several hours a week checking water chemistry, adjusting salinity,
feeding the livestock, and generally fooling with the system; it's
just so enjoyable, most aquarists are unaware of, or don't begrudge
the time commitment.

Summary:

I don't want to dissuade you from
pursuing a "reef-system"; my intent is only to urge your
considering what an involved enterprise it is. Most tropical reef
set-ups have thousands of dollars into them, with their keepers
spending hundreds more a month on gear, organisms, food, electricity...
and the animals living an average of a few months. Is this challenge
for you?

Bibliography/Further
Reading:

Belorusky, Wyn, Jr. 1988. How to build
a living reef system. FAMA 5/88

History of Reef Keeping, biggest challenges hi my
name is Joe and I study aquatics and ornamental fisheries in England I
recently went to Aqualink message boards and left a message asking for
help with a dissertation I am currently writing on reef aquaria, and
someone suggested that you might be able to help me. I need help in
researching when the first reef tanks came around <Really... with
the popularization of the "Mini-Reef" technology of George
Smit in the mid-1980's... though folks had some successes prior to
this time (you might look about for the many tries at "A/The
History of Aquarium Keeping"... Al Klee's versions are the
best IME> and common problems with them. <These are several and
diverse. Take a read through our root-web: www.WetWebMedia.com re
this... You can gauge what the real problems are by the number of FAQs
files by category/issue... Disease, Maintenance, Set-Up, Feeding...>
I need to go back as far as possible but have been unable to find much
about them, if you could suggest any books or websites or if you have
any information yourself that may help me I would gladly appreciate it.
yours thankfully Joe Augier
<We will be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner