Interesting how a small conversation can lead to a tutorial. While advising Travis Homiak on starting a bellrope, the subject of "prickers" or "spikes" came up with what the best one was for small fancywork being the main thrust of the conversation, but then I put my foot in it and realized that a verbal instruction to "make a cover" for the awl needed a backup, so here we are:

I prefer a small "scratch"-type awl for my finer work (such as the earrings on the jewelry pages) and for piercing thru small lines. Marty Combs sells a "French" or "Four-Way" spike on his site which is a true blessing when at sea or working on a boat, splicing docklines, freeing-up or snugging down a recalcitrant shackle-pin and like that, but it's far too large for most fine fancywork. The scratch-awl (see above) is just the right size for most small fancywork, but you really need to either "cork" the tip or make a sheath for it if you're going to transport it in a pocket or in a dittybag so you don't "spike" yourself, inadvertantly. The awls are readily available at just about any good hardware store, or even at Sear's.

To make the cover, take three lines about 60 inches long (1) and middle them up then pierce thru line one at the middle point, lifting one of the three lays and passingthe end of the second line thru it as shown in (2)and (3).

It helps if you get some cyanoacrylate (super-glue) and coat the last inch of the line, allow itto dry and then clip the end of the line at a 45°angle.... this makes the end of the line it's ownspike and is useful in doing the finish work onjust about any piece of fancywork where tuckingthru of lines is required. (Click on (3) )

Take the end of line two and pierce and pass thruline three at the middle, then take the end of linethree and pierce and pass thru line one (4), thusforming a triangle. (5) Note that you will haveONE of the three laid lines on top and two on thebottom of each pass-thru. This will providestrength to the tip of the sheath.

If you need another reason to do it this way, thenit's 'cos I feckin' said so, innit?

After you get this arranged right, snug the threelines up to form a tight triangle (6) and then startthe "over-two" weave to actually make thesheath itself. The method for doing an "over-two" weave is also gone into on THIS page, butI think that most can figure it out just by lookingat either (7a) (for those who don't get confusedby coloured tracer lines) or (7b) (for those who,like me, have enough trouble tying their shoesand don't need no 'steenking' colours to confusethem further).

Working the first pass flat as shown in (7) isprobably easiest, although after some practiceyou'll probably prefer to do it "in hand"... eitheris just fine.

After you succeed in getting the first passtucked correctly, you'll want to tighten thingsslowly until you get something that looks like(8), making sure that the tightened weave issymmetrical. This will form the interior tip ofthe sheath.

Continue the "over-two" weave for four or fivemore passes and then insert the tip of the awl into the resulting "pocket". Holding theawl vertical on a hard surface, continue the "over-two" on up the shaft until you getabout 3/8" from the top of the awl. Make the weave as snug as you can as you go.

You can either go the same direction each time, which will produce a "true" fenderweave, as in (9C) or you can alternate directions with each pass (9B). If you wish, tryfour passes in one direction, then four passes in the other, then six alternatingdirections, or any combinations of the above. The main thing is to keep the weavetight to the shaft of the awl so that it does not fall off of it's own accord.

When you've gotten to about 3/8 " from the top, make a simple footrope knotand superglue the exterior of the footrope, clipping five of the six lines off. ThereWILL be quite a bit of "left" line, just save it for puddings or fillers. The sixth linecan either be tied to the handle of the awl or tucked under a turksheadaround the handle of the awl.... your choice. (9G) is tied around, while(9H) and (9I) are tucked.

The awl tips are shown in (9J) (sharp piercing tip) and (9K) (semi-dulllifting tip). (9H) is just a blunter tip.

Also in (9): (9G) is an 11x9 square turkshead around the handle, (9H) is asimple three-strand (Boy Scout Woggle) turkshead and (9I) is a 9 x 7square turkshead. These three allow me to find the correct awl evenin poor lighting conditions.

(9B) is a line puller which is explained elsewhere on the site.... I just gotlazy and used an old picture.

Finally, when you've completed the sheath and after several weeks of use,you can varnish or superglue the exterior to prevent wear. Allow some timebetween finishing the sheath and applying whatever protectant you wantto use and "excercize" the sheath by moving the awl around in it and taking it off and putting it back on. This will allow the awl's shaft to get a good fit and is important, 'cos once you've applied the protective substance (especially superglue), that's all shewrote.

As always, the above is like a clear summer's day to me, but I probably overlooked or glossed over something which is second nature to me and which has left you totally confused.... DON'T HESITATE TO POINT IT OUT! Let me know if any points need clarification and I'll do my best to ameliorate the FUBAR part.