N52 Gods I hid the truth, I must repent. My sin is that I had no time to do a proper dyno that would compare Evolve to all the other tuner dyno's which usually have an Intake.

What did I hide:
I do have a dyno of Evolve on the day after the flash for my 128i which I haven't posted because I felt it was not an ideal dyno because it was so soon after the flash and it didn’t highlight the Evolve’s commitment to the tune (offerign service to tweak the file if needed, especially if I could get a diagnostic file created and so on).

At the time I just didn’t think it would be fair, it was big news, and I was waiting to do a dyno pull again when the same shop offered a discount dyno day in the summer months.

I consider it a rather poor dyno for a few reasons listed below:
- My goal to dyno was just to see if the investment actually worked, and I didnt spend money for nothing. Dyno was on the next day after flash + 150km drive on mixed roads. Car did feel good the previous night on backroads, I felt it adapted. I was wrong it was mostly the throttle remap. Therefore, the car is in the late adaptation period
Overall, the tune works and fixed the dips in this dyno.

- Wrong Fuel. I had “94” octane Petro Canada/Sunoco, since then I discovered that 91 octane Shell Vpower is the best for the tune and it makes the car feel different, more aggressive. “94” was used to be consistent with previous dyno’s.

- Evolve’s tune for me was tweaked for UK 95 RON/ Canada 91-93 AKI octane. I have only Petro “94” or Shell 91 here. This is NOT the USA’s 93 AKI/UK 99 RON. Therefore, the dyno’s fom UK in theory, are better than my result. I actually prefer Sell’s gas cuz its cheaper, so win win.

- No Euro-Box installed in my car. A severe bottleneck, esp the 4 month old filter and Charcoal filter intact. The Eurobox + dry AFe did, for me at least, feel like the last touch that allowed the car to breathe, equalize the decat in my exhaust and the more open intake, and it felt like a mini 3stage manifold all over again or at least a new flash of the tune. Despite critics, I do think the Intake helped me gain a few hp and TQ and I made sure to plug my ears to ignore the sound changes (actually, it made the exhaust quieter and I had more wheel spin/traction loss).

- Oil change. I was past the middle of my cycle, the oil was the same as the previous dyno of the 3 stage manifold just 3 weeks of driving 200 km round trips for at least 3x a week+ weekend drives around the city easily being 200km.

- This dyno has no comparison to other tunes. I could not compare my car to Evolve’s dyno and the German’s claiming 270 PS/265hp for a 125i. My goal at the time was to redyno with Eurobox to make objective comparisons against these idol’s including the AA tune which is usually dyno’d with the Perf Intake and with 93 octane. Also, I was still on winter 17’s, the same ones I had on the 3 stage Manifold dyno, and I wanted to a dyno on my 18’s and compare it to the my base dyno.

So in conclusion, my car had a bottleneck and the wrong fuel therefore the tune is not represented well.

I believe, that the final gain over the Manifold with the tune + intake is similar to Desi4Life’s e90 328ix’s complete AA tune dyno gain over No tune ( He has PE &Perf intake ). We did use the same Dynojet shop.
Link: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727141
The intake I guess would put me in SAE at ~220 whp and 210 wtq OR in STD ~228 whp and 215wtq and not the numbers you see below... :S

So apologies in advance, I just wasn’t able to redyno the way I wanted to make it a proper comparison.
I do love the tune and feel it does what it should now that it has adapted to the intake: the acceleration is smooth and aggressive past 3k rpm. Very refined, perhaps more than others based on their dyno's having blips.
I have no regrets and have a path for headers

That seems really good for just the exhaust. I'm thinking the engine might be a little underrated? Assuming a 15% drivetrain loss (which is a big assumption, I guess, but I always hear people throwing that number around) you're sitting north of 245 BHP. Not bad at all.

Thats why I said WHP, I am not sure of the drive train loss, and I have no Baseline of bone stock

Someone dynoed a stock 128i 6MT here a couple of months back and got 197-199 WHP. I know it's not the same car, same dyno, or same conditions, but it's the only thing out there that I know of that you can compare to.

I did since it was installed. Car feels like it breathes better, sort of like running down hill.
With the dyno, I can now point out why:
Notice the Tourque in the low end is higher by about 10 vs 128i/328i stock dyno and the shape of the power band/HP is Convex vs Linear

Intake + exhaust. Biggest waste of $$(80 dollars) because the guys didn't know how to dyno my car : |. They somehow put my car into limp mode(engine overheated). Turns out they didn't use a fan and just did the dyno outside in the dry 108 texas weather.

They also only gave me only my best run. I asked for all of them(they did 3), and they wanted to charge me extra.

I was looking at yours, do you have a better image?
I need to see the headings to make sure I have the right scale to make it comparable. There are 2 smoothing choices STD and SVA

My Smoothing says CF: SAE Smoothing: 5 on right upper corner.

As far as I read from another forum "STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4 % higher than the SAE power numbers. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard.""

So if mine was STD, it would be 198x1.04= 205.92 HP...So looks like you have roughly +5 HP?

As far as I read from another forum "STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4 % higher than the SAE power numbers. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard.""

So if mine was STD, it would be 198x1.04= 205.92 HP...So looks like you have roughly +5 HP?

I think so

here is my data in SAE
+10 wTQ and +5 whp over your stock dyno. Sadly we cant compare much due to temperature and dyno variance

This tells me that, we need advanced timing/different cams to really use that exhaust.. 5whp is really low for that large diameter exhaust... himms himmss

huh? he put down 210 on a h0t day with no other real mods, that's +10 or more with presumably stock secondary cats, and stock header with primary cats. that's a SOLID gain

and he never got a baseline dyno, for al we know it could be +15whp on his car
ED: and a stock 135i mufler isn't 3" ID, so it's effectively maybe a 2.5" exhaust, going 3" piping is a waste when it's restricted anyway

so since the standard replacement for the n52 seems to actually be 2.75-3" all the way through, this isn't even a full large diameter exhaust

expect actually few more hp with a proper sized muffler (haha, i'm usually theone saying that mufflers don't do anything! :P)

replace the muffler, new headers with larger/no secondaries, i can't see why another 15-20 wouldn't be seen.

The 135i muffler is cut, so that 3" goes as far as possible, similar to 128i BMP exhaust. In any case, I like it cuz I get the flap working to quiet things down.

I think if one wants best gains its to cut up a riss racing full exhaust to fit 128i manifold.

Cut? You still can't change the inner diameter of the piping above stock except for the very inlet pipe to the muffler - the inner workings of the muffler would be restrictive unless you took a stick to it

What's the volume difference between flap and no flap? I bought my 130 with the golf tee mod done and it sounds amazeballs, i have no idea what it's like with the flap haha

Best gains would actually be a 3" in out straight through style muffler (nice and cheap) probably sound ok as the natural exhaust note is great.. Or a muffler delete (loud and super raspy)

Im curious about your exact setup? Is it a merge at the stock mufflers into a single 3" straight pipe? Or two smaller pipes merging to a 3" axelback?

I'd like to hear twin 2" into a 3" merge with a replacement res+muffler personally

The one i'm looking at is i think twin 1.75" (or maybe 2") merging to 2.75"

It's either going to be that or twin 2" pipes merging to 3" custom done
But i want the 2.75 because it makes it sound super exotic and amazing.. So i need to hear the custom one first lol

huh? he put down 210 on a h0t day with no other real mods, that's +10 or more with presumably stock secondary cats, and stock header with primary cats. that's a SOLID gain

and he never got a baseline dyno, for al we know it could be +15whp on his car
ED: and a stock 135i mufler isn't 3" ID, so it's effectively maybe a 2.5" exhaust, going 3" piping is a waste when it's restricted anyway

so since the standard replacement for the n52 seems to actually be 2.75-3" all the way through, this isn't even a full large diameter exhaust

expect actually few more hp with a proper sized muffler (haha, i'm usually theone saying that mufflers don't do anything! :P)

replace the muffler, new headers with larger/no secondaries, i can't see why another 15-20 wouldn't be seen.

Blah blah blah.....No it is not. +5-6HP compared to my bone stock which is may be 1% different than his as baseline, which was on a HOT day as well with 5 pulls... Breathing better, less exhaust restriction isn't helping much, that's what I am saying. It needs to be a complete solution.