Sinkwich III: Treasures from villages in Beaujolais

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Sinkwich III: Treasures from villages in Beaujolais111605 living13Athens Banner-HeraldTomorrow is the third Thursday of November, which means that tomorrow is the release date for Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of the new vintage. Undoubtedly, the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau has waned over the years as tastes and perceptions have changed, but unfortunately the negative attitude towards Beaujolais Nouveau has spread to all Beaujolais.--> Sinkwich III: Treasures from villages in Beaujolais On Spirits | | Story updated at 10:53 PM on Tuesday, November 15, 2005

Frank

Sinkwich III

more Sinkwich columns

Tomorrow is the third Thursday of November, which means that tomorrow is the release date for Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of the new vintage. Undoubtedly, the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau has waned over the years as tastes and perceptions have changed, but unfortunately the negative attitude towards Beaujolais Nouveau has spread to all Beaujolais.

Most consumers do not understand that there is Beaujolais Nouveau, meant to be consumed young, and then there are Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages, and also "cru" Beaujolais', the latter possessing an innate ability to age.

It is an unfortunate fact that the word Beaujolais does not appear anywhere on the label of the "cru" Beaujolais, the best Beaujolais' produced. As the "cru" Beaujolais are named after the villages from which they come instead of the entire region, many consumers who like Beaujolais and worse yet adventurous connoisseurs don't even know these wines are Beaujolais. There are 10 villages that are allowed to place their names on the labels. They are: St. Amour, Regnie, Chenas, Chiroubles, Julienas, Fleurie, Moulin A Vent, Morgon, Brouilly and Cotes de Brouilly.

All wines from Beaujolais, regardless of their name, are produced from the gamay grape, but it is the geographic locality, the amount and the method of production that make for the difference in the wines.

The gamay grape generally yields a light-bodied red wine with little or no tannins and fruit flavors consisting of cranberries, cherries and strawberries. The wines are not alcoholic, mouth filling and powerful but instead silky, elegant and perfumed. Whereas Beaujolais Nouveau is produced by the carbonic maceration method and is therefore somewhat spritzy and very fruity, "cru" beaujolais wines are produced in the traditional method and more resemble the famous pinot noirs of the Burgundy region that lies just north of the Beaujolais region. Coupled with the facts that less wine per vine is produced and the quality of granite soil is better, the wines from the 10 "cru" villages are more concentrated than regular Beaujolais and may sometimes even outlive wines from the lesser appellations in Burgundy.

As we approach the holiday season, dare not miss the hidden treasures from the 10 prestigious villages in Beaujolais as they are perfect with ham, turkey, stuffing, cranberries and all other holiday fare. Diochon Moulin A Vent ($15), Chateau Thivin Cotes de Brouilly ($17) and Marcel Lapierre Morgon ($22) are several wines worth searching out this year.

 Frank Sinkwich III is a Certified Wine Educator and the Vice President of Northeast Sales Distributing. He can be reached at fsinkwich3@ nesdi.com