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Aluminum Classic Valve

Why hasn't AGD thought about making some of these? I think they would sell for anyone trying to use a mag in competitive play. It could come with a level 10 and not have the RT effect. And being made of aluminum would save on weight. Is there a downside I'm missing?

If you want the retro valve to not RT, use a ULT properly. The other option is to use a classic on-off assembly. Then you will have the same stiff trigger pull so that the differential force will be much less, especially when using a level 10 setup.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

If you want the retro valve to not RT, use a ULT properly. The other option is to use a classic on-off assembly. Then you will have the same stiff trigger pull so that the differential force will be much less, especially when using a level 10 setup.

OK let me explain the problem. I have been told that in the UWL you can not use, X-valves, RT Valve or any of the like except classic valves. I believe this is the rule for all competitive play. Classic valves are heavier therefore backloading a ULE marker. This is the reason I believe there would be a market for an aluminum Classic valve.

Do you have girly tooth pick arms? My classic mag with Intelliframe & stainless Lapco isnt heavy at all. Thats with co2 or air. Back in the day my Spyder cleared 15 pounds without paint or co2, a mag isnt ****. I suggest working out some to beef up your arms.

Regular stainless classic valve, ule body w/front chopped, factory rail ule milled by Luke, ule'd frame of choice with a pneu setup. For counter balance to the "crazy heavy" valve run a stainless back barrel... or, on my classic my 14" dye stainless with 68/45 had near perfect balance. It was "heavy" when carrying it to the field in one hand loaded with paint etc... but once you shouldered the marker the balance made it seem weightless.

I don't have ule milling on my classic, but I just suggested it to make up for the full stainless valve... you could also substitute pneu for electro in the frame as well....

If we turn this into a lifting contest I'm pretty sure I could hold my own. That's not the point. Classic valves are heavy and shiny. I think there would be a market for an aluminum classic valve. It would allow AGD an entrance back into the tourney world, if someone truly desired to do so, and give AGD another product to sell to make money. And the fact that it could be anodized to match would be awesome. And i'm sorry about u having to lug around a 15 lbs marker. Just cuz u did it doesn't mean I should.

I'd love an aluminum classic valve, but AGD isn't going to be making squat. "There is no money in paintball anymore."

Until then, you get to scavenge parts.

An aluminum AA reg back will bring your classic valve within 1 oz of an X-valve.

Originally Posted by oldironmudder

Do you have girly tooth pick arms? My classic mag with Intelliframe & stainless Lapco isnt heavy at all. Thats with co2 or air. Back in the day my Spyder cleared 15 pounds without paint or co2, a mag isnt ****. I suggest working out some to beef up your arms.

The weight of components is cumulative -- a little weight here, a little weight there, and suddenly you're carrying an extra pound. Multiply that by constant play over the course of an entire day and yes, your arms will get tired. If you're not tired, it's not a sign of your strength -- it's a sign that you're not playing hard.

Regular stainless classic valve, ule body w/front chopped, factory rail ule milled by Luke, ule'd frame of choice with a pneu setup. For counter balance to the "crazy heavy" valve run a stainless back barrel... or, on my classic my 14" dye stainless with 68/45 had near perfect balance. It was "heavy" when carrying it to the field in one hand loaded with paint etc... but once you shouldered the marker the balance made it seem weightless.

I don't have ule milling on my classic, but I just suggested it to make up for the full stainless valve... you could also substitute pneu for electro in the frame as well....

If I recall agd made two different length "factory" rail systems and Luke ules both I didn't specify which or any lrngth

sorry its early and that was heavy sarcasm

I actually do prefer my emag rail I picked up over my standard benchy, now that I modified it to use am/mm grips and asa's so I do agree there, still, once ule'd I think either rail would be so.close in weight only a scale could tell

If I recall agd made two different length "factory" rail systems and Luke ules both I didn't specify which or any lrngth

sorry its early and that was heavy sarcasm

I actually do prefer my emag rail I picked up over my standard benchy, now that I modified it to use am/mm grips and asa's so I do agree there, still, once ule'd I think either rail would be so.close in weight only a scale could tell

I know u could ULE any size rail. A look at any mag I have put together or sold shows I understand that fact. I also am not a fan of older mag or mag parts (please have some mercy on this comment). I like newer parts, e-mag length, ULE mags and I want to be able to play in UWL if I find a team with my mag. Is that so much to want?

Well.... considering AGD is done making parts id say, yes. It is too much to want. Its like the "new gun from AGD" thread. Pipe dreams...

I just think it would cost as much to produce as the x, but still have the same performance of its stainless counterpart. And I wouldn't pay $200+ for a valve that's the same as a $50 one over 5-6-7oz weight savings when you could just shave it out somewhere else.... but that's just me

Well.... considering AGD is done making parts id say, yes. It is too much to want. Its like the "new gun from AGD" thread. Pipe dreams...

I just think it would cost as much to produce as the x, but still have the same performance of its stainless counterpart. And I wouldn't pay $200+ for a valve that's the same as a $50 one over 5-6-7oz weight savings when you could just shave it out somewhere else.... but that's just me

Regular stainless classic valve, ule body w/front chopped, factory rail ule milled by Luke, ule'd frame of choice with a pneu setup. For counter balance to the "crazy heavy" valve run a stainless back barrel... or, on my classic my 14" dye stainless with 68/45 had near perfect balance. It was "heavy" when carrying it to the field in one hand loaded with paint etc... but once you shouldered the marker the balance made it seem weightless.

I don't have ule milling on my classic, but I just suggested it to make up for the full stainless valve... you could also substitute pneu for electro in the frame as well....

If you chop the front that's to get it down to am/mm length correct? That's what I assumed.

I know its AM/MM length, but Luke can mill it from an RTP length rail as well. Weighs in at 2.25lbs without the barrel. It could be lighter if you used CCM fittings, a smaller ASA, CF body mod etc. I could easily see it getting down to 2lbs or under.

Deus Machina on MCB and here I think.. Was the one who made mine. Not 100% sure if he is still doing them or not? Its a pretty easy item to mill, IIRC I had someone else ready to make them, but then he popped back up and had a handful in stock.

I just think it would cost as much to produce as the x, but still have the same performance of its stainless counterpart. And I wouldn't pay $200+ for a valve that's the same as a $50 one over 5-6-7oz weight savings when you could just shave it out somewhere else.... but that's just me

That is my outlook totally on the classic. Hate to say it. But it is.

I was on the understanding any gun was legal as long as one slow trigger pull = one ball shot. Since this is possible with a ULT. Why would any rt based valve be illegal? Other than the tournament heads not wanting agd in the scene anymore. Heaven forbid an old gun take up marketing space for a brand new electro.

That sounds like a cool project. other have suggested it over the years. i doubt AGD would ever touch this. If i were to take this project on i would just make an aluminum valve housing and have the customer install his own parts from his existing valve. I have the equipment and know how to make these.....the question is will TK let me?

I was on the understanding any gun was legal as long as one slow trigger pull = one ball shot. Since this is possible with a ULT. Why would any rt based valve be illegal? Other than the tournament heads not wanting agd in the scene anymore. Heaven forbid an old gun take up marketing space for a brand new electro.

I thought this as well, but hell its been about 10 years since my last tourney... I know rt's were legal back when because one of my friends ran one on our team.

Id rather see the booyah or hyperframe come back in the $150 range than a new valve honestly...

I was on the understanding any gun was legal as long as one slow trigger pull = one ball shot. Since this is possible with a ULT. Why would any rt based valve be illegal? Other than the tournament heads not wanting agd in the scene anymore. Heaven forbid an old gun take up marketing space for a brand new electro.

I think it's the possibility that the marker wouldn't be one trigger pull = one ball shot. I wonder if I tourney lock an electric would that be good enough.

That sounds like a cool project. other have suggested it over the years. i doubt AGD would ever touch this. If i were to take this project on i would just make an aluminum valve housing and have the customer install his own parts from his existing valve. I have the equipment and know how to make these.....the question is will TK let me?

That was my thought. And as mentioned, I only want the valve portion, not the reg. Others may want the reg though. An extra thought would be to mill it so it will accept a ULT. Actually for my use, you don't even need internals excepting the on/off.

That sounds like a cool project. other have suggested it over the years. i doubt AGD would ever touch this. If i were to take this project on i would just make an aluminum valve housing and have the customer install his own parts from his existing valve. I have the equipment and know how to make these.....the question is will TK let me?

The valve part would be fine. I could use a cp reg with it and I don't have a problem with that. Even better I could find a reg with 45 degree elbow on it (Dye Reg)!!!!!!!

I sent TK an email and he said it would be ok for me to produce up to 50. I would just need to mark them as my own so they are not confused with AGD product. If we were to make just the front half of the valve it would be most cost effective to use the stainless power tube tip from an x valve. making the reg half is probably a waste since several aftermarket companies made them from aluminum and they are cheap.

sounds like a cool project....If enough people are interested i will do a run this year.

I sent TK an email and he said it would be ok for me to produce up to 50. I would just need to mark them as my own so they are not confused with AGD product. If we were to make just the front half of the valve it would be most cost effective to use the stainless power tube tip from an x valve. making the reg half is probably a waste since several aftermarket companies made them from aluminum and they are cheap.

sounds like a cool project....If enough people are interested i will do a run this year.

But! Where do all these aluminum regs just pop up at? I've only seen a couple hurricane valves pop up over a few months.

I think it would be dumb to NOT do regs as well, or you've otherwise just built a reverse rtp valve. Using aluminum center and stainless ends. Sounds a little crazy to even waste the time in my personal opinion.

I sent TK an email and he said it would be ok for me to produce up to 50. I would just need to mark them as my own so they are not confused with AGD product. If we were to make just the front half of the valve it would be most cost effective to use the stainless power tube tip from an x valve. making the reg half is probably a waste since several aftermarket companies made them from aluminum and they are cheap.

sounds like a cool project....If enough people are interested i will do a run this year.

Are the powertubes the same on the Classic? If not, I would say use the Classic powertube vs the X. If we are having to scavenge for powertubes, I would rather scavenge from a $50 Classic than a $200 X or Retro.. Having to use an X powertube would kill it for me unless AGD has spares that they'll sell you.