Question:
I have a VVT engine...What should I do about intake plenums and throttle bodies?
I have a 2001 plenum with IAC and t-body
I have a 1999 plenum with no IAC and no t-body
I have a1994 IAC and t-body that does not work.

Right now I'm hoping I can use the 1999 plenum, 2001 T-body, and 2001 IAC valve. Tell me this is possible.

Also, what is the best route to go for a fuel rail on my 1995 car? I have a 99 fuel rail, 2001 fuel rail, and I think the best option will be to buy a dual feed. This way it will be easier to use a real fuel pressure regulator instead of jacking with that fuel damper ----.

Also, what is the best route to go for a fuel rail on my 1995 car? I have a 99 fuel rail, 2001 fuel rail, and I think the best option will be to buy a dual feed. This way it will be easier to use a real fuel pressure regulator instead of jacking with that fuel damper ----.

I use a 99 fuel rail with the flange up front along with the stock 94 fuel pressure regulator. It has been working fine for me. I have seen no reason to change it. On your DD, a dual feed rail sounds way over the top.

I use a 99 fuel rail with the flange up front along with the stock 94 fuel pressure regulator. It has been working fine for me. I have seen no reason to change it. On your DD, a dual feed rail sounds way over the top.

Do you have pics? I am interested in the M-Tuned rail only because I know it will fit (after trimming) and it won't require me to get anything fabbed-up. I'm trying to minimize cost on this car because I just dropped $250 on new window regulators and $100 on a battery.

This thread is ruining my plans to get a daily with more than 2 seats.

I need a bigger car but I cannot deny the utility of owning more than one Miata (stocking replacement parts), fuel economy, reliability, agility around town, and fun of tuning another car and getting more fuel economy out of it.

I had the displeasure of renting a larger car last week, and driving around New Orleans with it. The small Miata is better in every way in and out of traffic, parking, and RWD fun-time. It had been a while since I rented a car and had to drive it for a week, the Miata really is significantly better around town.

Do you have pics? I am interested in the M-Tuned rail only because I know it will fit (after trimming) and it won't require me to get anything fabbed-up. I'm trying to minimize cost on this car because I just dropped $250 on new window regulators and $100 on a battery.

You can come look at mine... or, if I can find it, I'll post that bit from a '99 head swap writeup I have. The NA regulator swaps over to the NB fuel rail with no fuss.

I had to drive my aunt's Camry this morning and I forgot what a soulless, lazy, vapid, beige appliance it is. It's Idiocracy on four squishy tires.

You can come look at mine... or, if I can find it, I'll post that bit from a '99 head swap writeup I have. The NA regulator swaps over to the NB fuel rail with no fuss.

I had to drive my aunt's Camry this morning and I forgot what a soulless, lazy, vapid, beige appliance it is. It's Idiocracy on four squishy tires.

Don't you have the gay "fuel damper" on yours? I'm partially temped, and I mean partially, to doing a Fuelab regulator on my daily, but that's $160 + about $75 in fittings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead_318

This thread interests me.

Hell yeah, ----------er.

Also, does anyone have a naturally aspirated VVT table? Has anyone determined the "prime" table for VVT on an NA engine? Shouldn't they be the same considering we're all using the same cam? I hope someone on MS3 has already done this (which uses VVTuner "internally") rather than running VEAL on one computer and VVTuner on another with MS2 so I can keep target AFR in check while adjusting cam angle.

I still need a CKP and CMP sensor for the VVT engine. PM me with prices. They're $60 each from Mazdaspeed so keep that in mind.

Don't you have the gay "fuel damper" on yours? I'm partially temped, and I mean partially, to doing a Fuelab regulator on my daily, but that's $160 + about $75 in fittings.

Yeah I've got whatever regulator/damper comes on a '94. It swaps straight over to the '99 rail and it's been working just fine. The main thing is that it's cheap and everything fits and works like stock.

Lets talk about reliability problems. I bought this car in 2007 with 86k miles. It looked bad. I've already replaced every hose in the car now this week was rough.
In a span of three days I had some problems:
Broken window regulator
dead battery
dead ignition switch
dead window switch
bad "new" window regulator
tragically leaking rear caliper
and now today, on the way to work, broken header.

I think its time I pulled the engine and swapped-in the swap motor, but money is the problem. Its time to do it right if I'm going to keep it, I cannot afford to buy a nicer car so we're going to keep this one.