Minister of Fire2.

NULL

With stove temp's approaching 800*F, aren't you afraid of the magnets falling off at the most critical time? 800*F is above the Curie temperature of iron, and while I'm sure you're sticking them on a part of the stove a little cooler than the stove top... by how much?

A few Jotul Firelight 12's, a couple of BK Ashford 30's, some open fireplaces...

Member2.

NULL

Being a new 30 user this year, I have been on a steep learning curve. I read all the info you guys post and try to see what parts affect me most. I also live in area where the wind blows incessantly! So knowing that, i have a flue damper at my disposal. Will this aid me on burns or just keep the stove pulled back when it is very windy?

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I'd like to know too. Will a flue damper help the 30 NC ??? or will it just interfere with the way the stove was designed????

There are some who call me...mod.2.

NULL

Staff Member

With stove temp's approaching 800*F, aren't you afraid of the magnets falling off at the most critical time? 800*F is above the Curie temperature of iron, and while I'm sure you're sticking them on a part of the stove a little cooler than the stove top... by how much?

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Those magnets would be on the belly of the stove, where it is no where close to 800.

pen

- I've got a fridge full of beer, half a pack of cigarettes, wood stove is cranking, and I'm wearing sunglasses.
- Using an Englander-30 to burn wood and forearms.

Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division2.

NULL

Staff Member

With stove temp's approaching 800*F, aren't you afraid of the magnets falling off at the most critical time? 800*F is above the Curie temperature of iron, and while I'm sure you're sticking them on a part of the stove a little cooler than the stove top... by how much?

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They haven't fallen off in five years. And that stove has seen 800 a few times. Not on purpose.

New Member2.

NULL

So far, so good with the new stove. I installed it about a month or so ago and it is getting used as required. The true test won't come until next fall but I have a question on how to tame this thing down. I will say this, I'm not used to the echo...echo...echo.... when I open the door and peer in.

I'll run through last nights scenario just to give you all an idea of how she's burning. Yes, it's a she but I haven't picked out a name yet. Might need help with that too.

8:15 pm: started the typical fire. Burned on medium to low with some smaller splits to get a few coals in her before bed time.

9:50 pm: loaded up (N/S) with about what I would call a half load of medium sized mixed splits. It was dry but not oak or locust. Left the air turned down for an overnight burn. Stove top around 400*.

10:00 pm: she's ignited and ready for take-off!

10:10 pm: full take-off achieved, all secondaries burning like a ***** ape. Temps jump to 700*.

10:15 pm: she's hovering between 750*-775* with a screaming freight train of fire from front to back in the top 6" of the stove. This goes on until 11:30 pm when she finally drops back to 700*. I head to bed.

5:30 am: not much left this morning, stove is at 200*. It would probably start a new fire without much work but that is not needed today. Kind of mixed feelings on the burn times. My little Napoleon 1101 was burning longer with a more controlled burn. This thing just seems to take right off even with the air chit down (shrug).

I am a little hesitant to load her up with some good oak come this fall. I really don't want to see 800*-850* when I'm not here or at night when I'm sleeping.

How can I tame this thing? I'll do the dollar bill test again later when she's totally cooled down but it was sealed great when I put it in. It just seems it needs to be choked down a little more than it is or I'll never see the burn times it is capable of producing. Any thoughts?

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Herdbull, So have you tamed the beast? I had the exact same problem with my new 30. This is also my first time with an EPA stove. Same outside temp as you and I thought it was a good day to burn the new stove in case I needed to open some windows. Loved the stove until I loaded it half full for the night. It was the exact same scenario as you. The air was shut down then the secondaries took off. A lot of flame from secondaries and stove top temp 750. Moved Rutland burn indicator to pipe and it averaged 350 and the hottest the single wall pipe got was 450. Half load of mixed hardwood n/s. From reading all the posts one thing I may have done wrong was I put the wood on a bed of coals instead of raking forward. I am curious if this is how you did it when you had the high temps? also if you could add anything you have learned since April. Any others with tips would be greatly appreciated. I am hoping Herdbull is still on here since we had the exact same problem and I am sure he tamed his beast. I will be installing a damper because what had me worried was I had no control or a way to shut this puppy down. It was already shut down as far as the controls are conserned. During the melee I did find a magnet to shut half the air off to the rectangle hole for the secondaries. I will be picking a supply of magnets up. I cant seem to find the dog house intake holes. Can anybody be more specific on where to find them. I have the pedestal installed. Maybe a Pic might help in finding them . New member and it looks like 30 is a popular model on here. Thanks everyone ahead of time for your help.
PS. I haven't named her yet but I am sure I cant post what I was calling her last night!!

Guest2.

NULL

The 2 holes are right up front on each side and easy to get at with the Legs.

With the pedestal installed, you will need to reach from the back of stove, all the way up to the front of the stove, and there are 2 small square holes. One on each side. It requires a flashlight and sticking your arm all the way up from the back.

Member2.

NULL

I think I have tamed or at least subdued the beast. I ended up blocking one of the dog house holes "permanently" with a magnet and use the other magnet to control the remaining hole. I've learned to taper the primary air back sooner as well. By the time stove top temps hit 450ish the primary air is at about 25% open and I will close it down to the sweet spot very soon thereafter.

I haven't seen 800 degrees in a long time. I can if I want to but no need to. Raking the coals forward is a good idea, I think it will help you. No damper for me and I've found that I hit 750 daily but really nothing higher than that. This thing puts out great heat with a little putzin.

The hole are underneath right in front. I'd say about 3" back from the front and 3" in from the side. 1" dia magnets work pretty good.

Englander 30NC - Main level
Napoleon 1101 Insert - Lower level (For Sale-maybe)
Century S244E Stove - Weeping in the work shop cause it's not hooked up
Stihl 044 w/20" - to put it on the ground
22-Ton Forest King splitter - to break it down
Arctic Cat 650 TBX H1 4X4 - to haul it home

New Member2.

NULL

Do think a fan helps ? In other words do you think you would go above 800 hundred with out it ? Which fan do you have herdbull or others? I believe there are two types for this stove. Have you called customer support to see if its ok to peak at 800. Manual says not to overfire which the manual states is cherry red. I would be interested on their reps opinion. I have seen him on here in another post. Not sure what his guide lines are for forum though. Also Herdbull or others do you have side shields ? I do not. I am new to using a thermometer. I started using one on the pipe on my last stove (Non EPA) and tried to keep it in the burn zone but never used one on the stove top. I am sure in my older stoves that I probably would have freaked at the actual temperature. So what are your opinions on when its time to panic with the stove top temperature and at what temp one should worry about the temp of a single wall pipe?

Minister of Fire2.

NULL

My country hearth goes into the 800 range every once in awhile and i keep the built n stove fan on high and sometimes a box fan blowing across the front of the stove to cool it down. Im more comfortable with it in the 600-650 range. PLus my rutland guage reads 50 degrees low.

New Member2.

NULL

The 2 holes are right up front on each side and easy to get at with the Legs.

With the pedestal installed, you will need to reach from the back of stove, all the way up to the front of the stove, and there are 2 small square holes. One on each side. It requires a flashlight and sticking your arm all the way up from the back.

So a cold stove helps, if not, use long gloves.

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Thanks Dexter and Herdbull. Found the front holes. It seems like the front holes would be for the air wash and that the 3 inch round hole in the back that is controlled by the damper is connected to the box inlet in the front ( I am guessing what is referred to as dogbox ) And the small rectangle hole in the back is for the secondaries. Is this correct?

Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division2.

NULL

Staff Member

Thanks Dexter and Herdbull. Found the front holes. It seems like the front holes would be for the air wash and that the 3 inch round hole in the back that is controlled by the damper is connected to the box inlet in the front ( I am guessing what is referred to as dogbox ) And the small rectangle hole in the back is for the secondaries. Is this correct?

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You have it backwards. The holes under the front are for the doghouse and the three inch round hole in the back feeds the airwash.

Minister of Fire2.

NULL

I would definitely built my fire as Brother Bart describes. I would add that I would avoid the step of establishing a coal bed when starting from a cold firebox. Just lay your fire E/W with a big split in back and a big split in front, and what ever other wood you want to load to get the length of burn and amount of heat you need on a particular day. Then put some kindling in and light it...with or without a supercedar. You can alternatively put a supercedar on the bottom between the two large splits, with kindling up close to it, then light it, then lay the rest of the wood.

Close the door and as soon as the fire is burning a bit, reduce the air to 3/4 open. Watch it, and let a good fire get established, but not a roaring inferno. As a good fire develops, keep closing the air down gradually, and waiting for the fire to get back to a good fire, then closing down some more, and waiting some more for the fire to reestablish. Over the course of 15-30 minutes you should get a good fire established, at a setting that will let the load burn for a long time without going ballistic.