I flat spotted my BFG Rivals last week at Big Willow. Was doing 135 and stomped on the brakes hard to avoid rear ending a 68 Barracuda.My 295's were getting old anyways and needed to be switched out. Plenty of tread left but they have been heat cycled out from all the track days I put them through.Height difference of 295 vs 315 mounted on a 10.5" rim.I was fairly certain the 315's would hit the leaf spring or the upper inner wheelwell but to my suprise it does not rub anywhere.View of passenger rear.View of upper inner wheelwell. Plenty of clearance.View of passenger rear fender. I might fold the lip up if I have any issues but there is lots of clearance here too.Here is the driver front with the steering turned full lock to the right. Nothing hits with tons of room. Another view of driver front. I haven't gotten an alignment yet and can still get more negative camber if needed.I do admit that a 10.5" wheel is not the best size for a 315/30-18 BFG Rival S. An 11" or 11.5" would be ideal to maximize the contact patch. The 10.5" does sink in deep enough that the tire acts as a rim protector though!

View of passenger front with wheel turned straight ahead. Plenty of space at the fender.I can still fit my hand in between.View of passenger front tire. That is nearly 12 inches of contact patch!Rear view.295 vs 315Anyone want a set of skinny 295's? haha! They are going on Craiglist for cheap!There it is fellas a 315 square setup Ebody. As anyone who has seen my car at the Spring Fling track days can vouch that there is nothing fancy or complicated about my setup. All it takes is careful measurements and custom offset wheels and I'm certain this will apply to Challengers and B bodies as well!

No wonder this e wheels look so good, Forgelines are some of the best wheel out there! I know I'll be heading down that way in early June for the Sonoma Historics, so if you don't sell the tires by then I'll pick them up. I'm thinking of buying this tool for measuring wheel offsets once you have the tire size chosen.https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/wwk-10724568/overview/

I feel tools like those are garbage because you cannot put the entire weight of the car down on them and set the ride height. Nothing beats a deep offset wheel with a variety of spacers to fine tune measurements. With a physical wheel and tire you can roll the car around, turn the wheel lock to lock and be dead on when the time comes to drop down for the actual rims.

No wonder this e wheels look so good, Forgelines are some of the best wheel out there! I know I'll be heading down that way in early June for the Sonoma Historics, so if you don't sell the tires by then I'll pick them up. I'm thinking of buying this tool for measuring wheel offsets once you have the tire size chosen.https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/wwk-10724568/overview/

I'll rent it out to recoup the cost.

I have and used one of those on my Charger. I have a lift and just jacked up the suspension and put most of weight on it. I think it's a good tool. Could probably loan with deposit.

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"Were in it to win it. Anything less will end up being..... A whole lot of fun doing!!" UNLAWFLRIP UN

1500 a wheel??? Sorry, not going to happen. Guess I'll be limited to minilight wheels some day.

some time ago i made this statement : "i'm NEVER gonna pay $250.00 for a SET of tires AND wheels ! that's just a RIDICULOUS amount !" uh, well, i guess i'm showing my age....... i have since had to rethink that statement..........

amxautoxStill Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
Registered: 05/13/03
Posts: 96645
Loc: On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...

Originally Posted By moparx

Originally Posted By amxautox

1500 a wheel??? Sorry, not going to happen. Guess I'll be limited to minilight wheels some day.

some time ago i made this statement : "i'm NEVER gonna pay $250.00 for a SET of tires AND wheels ! that's just a RIDICULOUS amount !" uh, well, i guess i'm showing my age....... i have since had to rethink that statement..........

Yup, sometimes we change our minds, but I'll NEVER have that kind of money. Well, not until I win the lotto. I can't even save 1600 for something I want for the boat, without some crap happening and taking most of that money that I do/did have saved. I have no real idea what the new well house and new water holding tank will cost me over this summer, at least 1500, and maybe 3,000. at least the ramcharger has new tires even if I can't get to the lake very often this summer.

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Tom

"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."

-Henry David Thoreau

Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths

Sidewall flex is only way a tire hits a leaf spring. It would take a ton of it to flex that far from the ground. The spring itself is incapable of moving towards the tire, with those ubolts holding it to the axle and stuff.

Rylispro-- T/Anks for sharing your pics, etc... 315 square is awesome and what's needed in these latest years top be equal to many other similar classed pony cars... old or late years.

Your leafs are relocated inboard ~1"?

Also, now your front insides of the tires will hit the frame rail a bit more quickly.. correct?

I think you're gonna have to tuck/slightly pull your lips. Also, maybe time to step up to bigger TBs... 1.22 readily avlbl from FF, or request 1.24 from FF. (I run 1.24 TBs)

My 275-45-16s on 10" wide rims will resort to Hoosier A/R 7s.... and that places me in certain allowable classes (E/SP for SCCA Solo II, and some HSAX classes locally).

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Mopar Mitch
"Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers!
Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!

Hey Mitch!I agree and just wanted to show that our cars can be just as competitive as the Chevys and Fords. There should be more Mopars on the road course and hopefully this will inspire more owners to mount wide ass tires & actually drive their cars at their local track days, not just show off at a boring car show.

Yes my leafs are relocated inboard but at 1.5". Dr. Diff has a kit.My front inside tires never hit at all as there is tons of room available. This is the driver front with the steering at full lock to the right.

The rear inside tire is another story as that always rubbed but only during U turns. There is very minimal damage.Here is driver sideHere is passenger side. As you can see it basically just took off the paint from the frame and thats it.Here is the inside of my old front tires. Light horizontal scratches on the shoulder of the tire but no major damage anywhere. I have more camber wear than anything else and these 295's are about 4 years old with lots of miles and a bunch of track days on them. I'm thinking the 315's will just take off more paint and maybe get some extra wear on the shoulder so not a big deal.

The front fender lips are already folded over and I may just need a little more neg camber for it to clear. The rears are untouched and I will fold them up if needed.

I'm sure it could be done. When there is a will there is a way. Wasn't there a purple dart that autocrossed that was running 305/30-19s? Not sure if in front though?

If you take a tape measure and find the distance from the frame to the edge of a front inner fender that shows how much room you have to work with. An E-body should be about 19 inches. I don't know for a A or B body but maybe someone can chime in? The rears should be easy as drag racers stuff wide slicks in back of A-bodies all the time.

A 315 tire is physically about 13 wide so that gives about 3 inches per side of the tire to rotate left and right in an E-body. They key is a wheel that centers the tire exactly in the middle of the inner frame and inner fender edge.

If anyone is gonna make a 315 square setup A-body its gonna be you Samy!

I'm sure it could be done. When there is a will there is a way. Wasn't there a purple dart that autocrossed that was running 305/30-19s? Not sure if in front though?

If you take a tape measure and find the distance from the frame to the edge of a front inner fender that shows how much room you have to work with. An E-body should be about 19 inches. I don't know for a A or B body but maybe someone can chime in? The rears should be easy as drag racers stuff wide slicks in back of A-bodies all the time.

A 315 tire is physically about 13 wide so that gives about 3 inches per side of the tire to rotate left and right in an E-body. They key is a wheel that centers the tire exactly in the middle of the inner frame and inner fender edge.

If anyone is gonna make a 315 square setup A-body its gonna be you Samy!

That's Tom's old Valiant you're referring to. I've seen it run. He had fender flares that pushed his fender out about 2-3". I believe his leaf springs were in the stock location.

It can be done, springs would probably have to come in and fenders would have to go out. I just don't have time right now. Lol.

If anyone is serious about getting wide tires under their car let me know. I called up Forgeline on how to get some substantial discounts off the monoblock wheels on their website and can setup a group buy to cut down on costs.

I'll post up on another thread for a sign up list for those that are interested.

I'm unable to view any of your posted pics. Can you recap your plan with hard numbers, BS, Dia, Tire size aspect/dia/brand/model, You are looking for a group buy on a single size wheel offering?I just wore out a square set 295/35/18 on my DD Tacoma. I liked them a lot, and am toying around upgrading some of the rest of my fleet(?), the $1500/wheel though if true, is not a path I'd like to take, but would entertain its consideration, maybe.

Your 17" choice vs say 18" surprises me. I have nothing against 17's and they IMO work well/good with our age of cars, but, my thinking is, 17's will eventually become the new 15's , limited tire selection. I am not sure how long that trend will/could continue, but I have been wrong before. Just making a substantial investment in maybe non resell-able rims in a size that may become scarce, makes me pause. Thoughts?

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Mopar Mitch
"Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers!
Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!

Thanks guys!There seems to be no rubbing yet Mitch. From preliminary testing around my local mountain roads there is no rubbing on the tires anywhere as evidenced by the tire injection "hairs" still being intact.You can see them in the pic and all four tires are still like that. I haven't pushed the tires at all maybe about 45-50 mph in a turn? I'll definitely post pics when I'm at the track again!

It's funny you say that Samy! I think that 335's would definitely fit in the rear. There is tons of clearance out back once one folds the fender lip up. Having 335's might actually cure my slight oversteer issue. Loose is fast though as they say.

335's in the front is another matter though as one would need a 12" wheel up front and that would be a really expensive experiment, if it fits...

Hey Samy!I don't give out the specs to my wheels due to all the variation with suspension parts, fender clearance, leaf spring location etc. Even with E-bodies there is great variances between the Cuda vs Chally, any car built in the 70's for that matter.

The specs on my wheels really only fit my setup with 295 tires and also need a few millimeters more to get the "perfect" offsets for 315's. I actually found out that on hard cornering the 315's just barely rubs on the rear leaf springs. I'm going to need to use 3mm spacers as well as rolling the rear fenders for these current wheels. My next setup of wheels will have corrected offsets for 315's R-comps.

If I gave out my specs it doesnt really help anybody and I wouldn't want to get blamed for not fitting their car. One has to get a ruler and measure for their specific application. As always I will help you or anyone else with the correct sized wheels to get the maximum amount of tire underneath.

Sorry, most of my pictures are held hostage by Photobucket so blame them if you can't see.

I am going to have to retract my previous statement of possibly fitting 335's in the rear. My setup is actually rubbing in the upper wheel wells upon further inspection. It must be rubbing due to the body roll while cornering. The rubbing is just slight on the tire but, is no way ideal.

315's are definitely attainable, no doubt. With leaf springs, one will have to relocate them inboard 1.5" using Dr. Diff's kit and roll the rear fenders. Once those two things are done its just a matter of finding the correct offset wheels. I am having more issues fitting them in the rear than in the front haha!

I just called Cass and the reasons he stopped making them were because too many people complained that they interfere with a full length exhaust and that they will leave two small dimples on the `Cuda rear valance.

That's too bad, it was a nice product. If enough people ask him nicely though...

Here is the damage from the 315 rubbing in the rear, minimal but not at all ideal.Some rear fender rolling progressEastwood says their roller does not work with thick double wall rear fender sheet metal of most muscle cars but that is all baloney, it works fine, just need a big F'ing hammer also.Before shot from a while backThis mod is not too bad since I don't have nice paint. Believe me I wasn't gentle on these fenders at all as they are not that easy to fold up. A few whacks of a big hammer does the trick to bend the metal up, then I used the roller fender to get the shape I want. I took my time as didn't want the rear fender to concave in permanently as it would flex when rolling at a certain spot.

Not too bad as I have never rolled fenders before. I still have to do the driver side and I think it adds about an extra inch of clearance. I'll post up actual measurements of before and after at a later time.My spine is still killing me due to being crouched down under the fender all day haha!

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Mopar Mitch
"Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers!
Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!

I finished the driver side and took before and after pics:BeforeAfterAdded about 5/8" additional clearance

My advice when rolling the fenders is to take your time and check your work. I got a bit too greedy and the fender concaved in a bit. I had to pop it out from the inside and everything looks great now.

Yes it would definitely would affect handling if one were to add mini tubs. If we did that we would also fit the widest tires possible maybe a 345 or even wider? The problem is that the fronts will only be 315's wide and it would cause severe understeer at the track.

Actually it might be a benefit because currently we oversteer too much haha!

For those interested, taking this one step further; square the motion ratio, multiply by spring rate = wheel rate.

Tightening or loosening the dynamics of this can be further altered by splayed mounting of the leafs, ala E body, that will loosen or tighten up a combo but that is getting in to more complex geometrics with the splay, leaf twist, and resulting wheelbase length alterations under compression/extension than I've ever played with.