Waste water leaves the house and enters
the septic tank. The septic tank performs two functions. First,
it acts as a holding tank and allows the solids to settle-out. The
heavier solids sink to the bottom forming the sludge layer, the lighter
solids, fats, oils, grease, etc...rise to the surface and form the scum
layer. The relatively clear layer in the middle is called effluent.
Second, naturally occurring anaerobic bacteria begin breaking down
the solids in size and destroying the pathogens.

This is a standard gravity-fed
septic system. The treatment process starts in the septic tank
and is completed in and around the drainfield. This simple type
of system is best suited for those ideal building lots: well
draining soils, no high water tables or nearby bodies of
water.

After the treatment process is started in the septic
tank the effluent enters the soil treatment phase of the process
(baffles prevent the larger floating solids from entering the
drainfield). The soil treatment system, more commonly called the
drainfield, is comprised of distribution pipe laid in a trench partially
filled with gravel and covered with topsoil.

As the effluent enters the drainfield it percolates
through the gravel bed where a large portion of the pathogens are
destroyed. Pockets of oxygen created by the uneven shape of the gravel
allow the more efficient aerobic bacteria to exist. As the effluent
exits the drainfield the natural soil completes the treatment process.
By the time the effluent has traveled 2-3 feet through the soil all the
remaining pathogens have been destroyed and the water is drinking
quality. The cleaning process continues as the water migrates through
the soil

Phosphorus and nitrogen are utilized by the vegetative life covering
the drainfield and chemically changed in the soil. A large portion of
the moisture is returned to the atmosphere though evaporation
(evapotranspiration).

Obviously not all sites are going to be perfect. When dealing with
high water tables, a nearby body of water, little or no soil, extremely
slow soils, small lots, etc. and a standard system will not adequately
perform the treatment process alternative systems can be designed to
ensure the treatment process is performed before the effluent is
discharged to the environment. Today the lowly on-site septic system
has evolved to the point where they can actually treat wastewater better
than a multimillion dollar sewage treatment facility. And although
these alternative type systems will cost more they will in most cases
still be far cheaper than a treatment facility.

Contrary to what most
people and community leaders believe,septic systems are one of
the best choices for treating household wastewater, in most cases they
are a better option financially and far better for the environment than
a sewage treatment facility. But as with anything they must be used
correctly and properly maintained.

CAUSES OF SEPTIC
SYSTEM FAILURE

SOLUTIONS

Septic tanks
seldom fail, the soil, or drainfield fails when it becomes plugged and the effluent can no
longer migrate through the soil. The drainfield essentially becomes a dead pool of water.
In most cases these failures occur when it becomes plugged with solids that were supposed
to remain in the tank. These failures are usually a combination of factors and can be
avoided and in some cases, damages can even be reversed.

Failures can be
avoided by learning how a septic system functions, how to properly use it, and what steps
you can take to protect it. The basics of protecting a system are really quite simple,
once you realize that they work on a bacterial process (good bacteria eating bad bacteria)
and bacteria don't eat plastic like polyester and nylon...too many harsh cleaning solution
will kill off the good bacteria. Also a septic system can only handle a
certain amount of water per day...if you put more water down the drain than it can handle
you will overload the system.

The homeowner puts more water down the drain than the system can handle hydraulically
over-loading the system.

Install water-saving appliances, devices and practice water saving
techniques. Repair plumbing leaks. Leaking toilet valves are a major culprit
of hydraulic overload putting hundreds of gallons of water through the system every day.

Fine solids from washing machines (lint) and garbage disposals do not have the mass to
settle in the tank, instead they remain in suspension until reaching the drainfield where
they plug the pores of the soilbed

Install filter for the washing machine to remove the fine solids
from the discharge and do not use or minimize the use of garbage disposals.

Larger solids like
feminine hygiene products, condoms, cigarette butts, paper towels, toys,
etc. get out of the tank and enter the drainfield plugging it up.

Have the contractor install an effluent filter
in the tank. These are cleanable filters that stop the larger solids
from reaching the drainfield.

Chemicals are over-used killing the bacteria in the system stopping the treatment (and
breakdown of solids) process.

Conserve chemical usage. Automatic toilet bowl cleaners can be
very hard on a system because they kill the bad bacteria in the toilet but the killing
process continues throughout the system.

Periods
of heavy water use do not allow solids to settle in the tank and are
flushed out to the drainfield.

Water
use should be spread out. Do 1 or 2 loads of laundry per day rather
than 10-15 loads on Saturday morning.

Baffles in the tank are not of the proper size or fall off allowing solids to float out
to the drainfield.

Exit baffle should be replaced with effluent filters. These
cleanable filters prevent the larger solids from reaching the drainfield
and if installed properly are permanent baffles.

Solids are allowed to build-up in the tank leaving little settling room for newly
introduced solids and forces solids out of the tank to the drainfield.

Have the tank inspected
annually and pumped when necessary. Ask your contractor about putting
you on an annual (cheaper) inspection program. Tanks should
be pumped and inspected through the manhole cover, not the inspection pipe.

Vehicles are allowed to drive over the drainfield compacting the soil and destroying the
natural (drainage) structure of the soil.

Keep
vehicular and heavy foot traffic off the drainfield. Plugged/compacted drainfields can be rejuvenated by having the
soil fractured. This fracturing creates thousands of tiny fissures that allow the soil to
drain and the aerobic bacterial colonies to re-populate.

Sodium (salt) in wastewater can bind with certain types of clay soils causing the soil
to seal.

A soil de-flocculent can be used to correct sodium damaged soil.
A mini-septic system can be installed to receive the discharge from the
water softener to prevent this damage.

Tip for Buying a
Home: If you are buying a
home with a septic system, do not overlook the status of the septic
system!!! The codes have changed dramatically over the last decade
rendering more than half of all systems technically illegal. Up to
this point most regulatory agencies have been content to ignore these
old systems. However as the environmental damage from these old
noncompliant systems becomes evident, some states states/counties are starting
to require the systems be brought up to current codes before the
property can be sold. However this is not a perfect
process and what is starting to happen more frequently is people are
told by the health depts. after they buy the home
and move in that the system needs to be replaced and they as the new owners will be held responsible...an unforeseen cost that
few can afford.

More and more realtors are now beginning to realize
it is their responsibility to represent BOTH the buyers and the sellers
when it comes to the septic system. An educated agent will
strongly suggest the sellers have the system inspected for code
compliancy and upgraded if necessary before deciding on a selling price
and factor those costs into the final selling price before listing the
property. When representing a buyer they will again suggest a full
compliance inspection be done before making an offer and if the system
comes up short factor those costs to upgrade/replace the system into the
counter offer.

If you are shopping on your own and find a house you are serious about,
hire your own independent septic contractor to perform a
full compliance inspection. I stress septic contractors and
compliance inspection because most home inspectors inspect homes, not
septic systems and a good home inspector will tell you that. And
even many contractors when asked to inspect a septic system will often
assume you just want to know if it is failing or slow. Often those
inspections are nothing more than flushing a dye down the toilet,
running some water down the drain and look in the yard for surface discharge,
that only tells you if the system is having problems, not what is in the
ground. Believe it or not there are many septic systems that are
nothing more than pipe out to a cesspool (illegal for years in most of
the country...click on the animated history lesson in
red at the top of the
page to see why), a ditch or a lake or a stream.

Grandfathered in...fuggedaboudit. Even some
government agencies don't realize it but you can not grandfather in a
health or environmental issue. If that were the case you could
still smoke in airplanes, restaurants and public buildings, as long as
you smoked before those policies kicked in. Industry could still
dump their toxic waste anywhere they wanted as long as they were doing
it before the environmental protection laws were passed.

Unfortunately
once you buy the house the problem is yours and there have been cases
where the people have been kicked out of their home weeks after moving
in because the failed system is an immanent health risk to the public.

A full compliance inspection should
include:

Tank pumped and
inspected for cracks/crumbling concrete, missing/inadequate
baffles, excessive drain back from the drainfield (indicating a
failing system).

Size of tank.

Size and depth of
drainfield.

Depth of seasonal water
tables should be determined and the amount of separation from
the trench/bed bottom to the water table.

Perk rate of the soil and if the [size of]
the drainfield will handle the daily flows from the house
(usually 150 gallons per bedroom per day. A 3 bedroom home
should have a drainfield that will handle up to 450 gallons per
day).

Any non-complying parts
of the system should be noted. Any future code changes that
would put the system in non-compliance should be reported.
Example: Even if the system meets code requirements today, the
system should be assessed if it will meet any proposed changes
in the septic code requirements in the near future (and a good
septic contractor will be aware of pending changes).

Dollar estimates for
any suggested up-grades should be provided.

This inspection
assessment should be provided to the sellers and buyers in
writing and these costs should be incorporated into the selling
price.

This inspection will cost $200-$600 but it is
worth every penny if you find any problems. Any up-grades can/should be
negotiated into the selling price of the home. If no problems are found
then you know you are starting with a good system and it is up to you to
take care [of the system] from the beginning. Buying a home is the
biggest investment most will ever make...that septic inspection is part
of your due diligence.

If the seller refuses an
inspection you should take this as a sign of potential problems and walk
away or plan $ accordingly (if you are getting a good buy on the
property and you really like it, then paying for these upgrades out of
your own pocket would be worth it).

Tip for
selling a home:Before you list the home, have the system inspected
to see if it meets current code, if not have the system upgraded and
factor those costs into the selling price and use that new system as a
selling point. Warning: do not try slipping a noncompliant system
past the buyers...many sellers are getting sued by the buyers when they
learn you sold them a house with a pre-existing problem.

Tip for
building a home: If you
are having a house built, make sure the contractor that designs and installs
your system is a certified professional (most developers go with the
cheapest subcontractors they can find...insist they use a qualified
septic contractor). If you are your own general (hiring the subs) try to
find a contractor that does both septic and foundations to do all of
your "dirt" work. Also have them out to the lot to to design the
system first and build the house according to the septic...in some cases
moving the house 10 feet in one direction or eliminating that basement
bathroom can make a difference between a $5,000 system and a $15,000
system.

Also donít make the mistake of
hiring someone because they are the cheapest. Go with the contractor
with the best track record. Many people have saved a few bucks on the
first installation only to have the system fail 1, 2, 3 years later and
by that time the original contractor is out of business or refuses to
correct the problem. Now the second system can be even more expensive
because the yard is landscaped and the choices for a replacement are
narrowed down.