OK well thanks to Chekika and Chopcat I fixed the links - they should work OK now. I'll try to figure out how to embed a video or picture in the message so it shows in the forum so people don't have to click a link - can't be too hard - just haven't figured that part out yet

Looks good!But I have to ask:How much gear do you need for a week?Are you moving house?

No, not house moving, but I also have to wonder: How much "fishing gear" would you need to have to stay out for a whole week? .

Ha ha, very good! The answer is typically 2 rods maximum of three.1 heavy trolling rod for the big boys,1 medium heavy one to cast into schools of fish & trolling.Maybe one light one to gather bait or cast in the shallows of flathead as a backup to have something on the dinner plate ( packed in the hull most of the times).Some Hb lures and plastics, that's it.

Hi there - I am pretty new to the forum having only had my Adventure Island a few months.- I decided to design a Haka that would allow the Amas to fold without removing the Haka - and here is what I came up with.

I hope you find it of interest.Barry

OMG aussieonyak! That's great!

It's almost exactly what we were thinking of doing on the TI3! We were thinking of doing it with just the RailBlaza hardware (4 on each Haka) but got a big headache thinking about the geometries and expense (16 Aka and swivel mounts!), so we ended up using out first batch of Aka mounts for the fishing poles and cameras.

You solved most of those issues with the raised supports and the center swivel. Well done! You'll have a little higher/drier ride up there too.

Couple questions:How are you going to protect the Aka paint?What are the eyebolts for?Will the matched set be interchangeable/reversible?Have you caught your family oysters yet in those wide slat openings yet?

Update 6-20-2013: The discussion below refers to my original hakas--very strong, wood/glue/screw construction. I have since made a lighter set, not as strong, which uses an wood/aluminum frame/screw construction. (http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=7276&start=240) If you have kids, you may want to build the stronger set described below. The lighter, Al-frame set described in my "Expedition" thread, is designed more for use during camping trips. One haka is designed to convert to a table on landing.

I finally got around to building a set of 3-board hakas. They are based on Jim Quinlan’s (aka CaptnChaos) design. (see http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=37645&start=570) All designs owe their inspiration to NOHUHU. These are industrial strength. Each haka weighs 14 lb. (6.35 kg) complete with pad eyes, paddle cozy, permanent bungee cords for attachment to akas and a safety strap on each board. It took about 18 hrs to build the hakas plus many hours thinking about the project, and numerous trips to Home Depot & West Marine. Using a haka as a bench, it supported my friend Marc & me (>425 lb) when we sat in the center. They also work nicely with my 10-yr old, aluminum table frame to make a huge, stable camping table.

For the following discussion,“boards” are the 6’x1”x4” boards.“Cross piece” or “cross brace” are the 11” or 15” 1”x4” pieces made by cutting 2 into pieces. For each haka there were 3 11” and 2 15” cross pieces.

Day 2 Stain all boards and cross pieces. Dry for 24 hrs. It is a good idea to clamp the boards using the Irwin clamps and put weights on the boards at the ends to prevent warping. 1.5 hrDay 3 Assemble Hakas. 4 hra. Be sure to have a level workspace. Otherwise, you may build in a twist to your hakas.b. For a single haka, align 3 boards with ¾” spacers between boards. The ends must be even and boards parallel. Use a large square to make certain the ends are at right angles to the length of the boards. It will be convenient to use the Irwin clamps at each end so boards cannot move during the gluing & screw-setting steps. c. In building the haka, I placed 1 cross brace near each end. These end cross braces are placed so that they are about 1/3” beyond the aka (see critical measurement on schematic above.) The other 3 cross braces were then evenly spaced between the end cross braces. All 5 cross braces were drilled, and screwed to the 6’ haka boards. Use the #10x1¼” pan head screws. Then, 1 by 1, each brace was temporarily unscrewed (detached), Titebond glue applied, and the boards re-attached with the screws. When the screws were set, slight warping caused some boards to not mate together properly, leaving a gap. So, after the glue was applied, I used a clamp to force the boards together before final setting of the screws.Day 4 Sand the hakas with 120 grit sandpaper. Remove all roughness. Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust. Apply first coat of varnish. (45 min) Some tips on varnishing. (1) Never shake a can of varnish. Stir the varnish thoroughly with a paint stick. Try not to generate any bubbles. Do not press your brush against the lip of the varnish can to remove excess varnish—that causes bubbles. (2) Pour about 1/4 of the varnish into a paint container. This is the varnish you will be using. (3) Dilute the varnish about 10-20% with paint thinner. Stir carefully to mix well. (4) Apply the varnish. All brush strokes should be the same direction.Day 5 After 24 hrs,sand the hakas with 220 grit sandpaper. Use a tack cloth to remove sanding dust. Apply 2nd coat of varnish. 45 minDay 6 Repeat previous step. Apply a 3rd coat of varnish. 45 minDay 7 4 hra. To each haka, attach two 5/16” bungee cord loops underneath, one for each end. This loop serves to attach the haka to the aka. See Schematic above.b. Attach the aluminum angle strengthening brace on the underside of each haka. Use 3 SS ¼” bolts & nylon lock nut with nylon washers isolating the steel bolts from the aluminum strip.c. Attach 6 protective bumpers (heavy plastic or rubber strips) under each haka to protect the aka. Use the #6x½” pan head screwsd. Attach the paddle cozy on haka. Remove the paddle cozy from the aka, attach it to the front of the haka. Remove the u-clamp from the rear aka. At the rear of the haka. Add the bungee cord & clip to secure the paddle handle. This bungee can also be used to secure fishing rod/reels when not in use.e. Add 6 pad eyes on the underside of each haka to attach bungee cords.

Weight of each haka when complete: 14 lb. (6.35 kg)

This picture shows haka with paddle bungee/clip holding paddle and 2 rod/reels. My GPS is under a bungee cord.

Loaded for camping trip

While these hakas were fine, I wanted lighter ones. My friend, Marc, purchased these. And I set out in search of a lighter set.

Hi there - I am pretty new to the forum having only had my Adventure Island a few months.- I decided to design a Haka that would allow the Amas to fold without removing the Haka - and here is what I came up with.

I hope you find it of interest.Barry

OMG aussieonyak! That's great!

It's almost exactly what we were thinking of doing on the TI3! We were thinking of doing it with just the RailBlaza hardware (4 on each Haka) but got a big headache thinking about the geometries and expense (16 Aka and swivel mounts!), so we ended up using out first batch of Aka mounts for the fishing poles and cameras.

You solved most of those issues with the raised supports and the center swivel. Well done! You'll have a little higher/drier ride up there too.

Couple questions:How are you going to protect the Aka paint?What are the eyebolts for?Will the matched set be interchangeable/reversible?Have you caught your family oysters yet in those wide slat openings yet?

Hi NoHuHu - glad you liked the design - you were my main inspiration for this. To your questions:At the moment the varnished wood of the Haka sits on the Aka and is likely to rub as you have observed - to solve this I have purchased some felt from Ace hardware - it is designed to put on the bottom of furniture to protect the floor and the furniture - Its a sacrificial protector - it cost about $3 a pack so is cheap and easy to replace when it wears through.

The stainless eyebolts are there for attaching any bungie cords to strap things onto the Haka - I didn't want anything protruding on the seating level. The gaps in the planks are large enough to slip a bungy between the boards from above. I have 4 installed I will install at least another 4 to give most flexibility for tie downs without interfering with the design. Simple, quick and cheap.

The matched set will indeed be reversible - the trick will be in getting the spacing of the railmounts matched because, as you know, the akas are angled. I will do that by matching the second haka railmount platforms to be the exact same distance apart as the ones on the first haka and then setting the railmounts in place to mate with them.

And regarding the oysters - nope but I did lose a couple of supermodels when they just slipped through the slats . The spacing on the slats was pre-measured to accommodate the mirage drive (and for access for bungie cords).

Here's the felt I will put on the underside of the haka where it sits on the AKA

Great job, AOY! I will have to copy your design at some point as it just makes too much sense in terms of fishing not to.T2

Be my guest T2 - if you want to know any other details just ask away.

My only unsuccessful part was the tiller hiking stick - I got the stick and the universal joint figured out but I'm not happy with my attachment to the rudder control. I need to think that through a little more so I didn't publish photos of that yet.

Thanks Kayaking Bob ! you know you were the first person I saw on a hobie Island tackle some serious sailing on your Alenuihaha Channel crossing video. That was the first time I realized that these craft are far more seaworthy than they may first appear and that opened up the possibility for me to learn to sail it and then do some kind of expedition, which I plan to do once proficient with my AI.

After seeing that video Bob I went and purchased my AI - so you're the reason I'm on here now !

Here's just one more possibility on the quest for the perfect ride. It works perfectly for me. Its a kind of modular quarterdeck. I was inspired by Chrisj. Further modifications were made due to valid safety concerns brought to light by Nohuhu.

It is made from reinforced PVC. There are long continuous 1 in PVC pipes that run the length of the quarterdeck and finally one galvanized steel rod inside the lower back horizontal brace. I didn't want glued fittings coming apart out on the water, especially offshore.

The quarterdeck rests only on the aka support bar and gunwale. As a result the akas can be pulled in when needed.

Advantages1. Extra bungee"d storage for long trips2. A Quarterdeck sailing experience3. Converts to a fully padded, comfortable cockpit with ridgid back suport that sits you up out of the puddle.4. Creates points of attachment for more rod holders or other items.5. Ridgid but padded seating for extra passengers.