Boyfriend Hat

In Levis, flannel button downs, canvas sneakers, and grandpa cardigans, a friend of mine and I used to laugh that rather than dressing for the boys we wished we were dating, we dressed like the boys we wished we were dating. And the funniest part was that despite our different taste in men, somehow our fantasies of their wardrobes were identical. Some things are for the everyman and, as it turns out, for the everywoman too.

I designed the Boyfriend Hat with the versatility of any timeless article of clothing. Man or woman, wear it slouchy or cuffed. Pull it down taut or let it hover above the ears. Cuff it twice for a Wes Anderson style watchman cap.

Knit up with two different colored strands of Purl Soho’s Line Weight merino, the effect is gently marled and toasty warm. In a tight 1 x 1 rib, this hat is also exceptionally elastic and durable, hugging the head and feeling decadently soft, even through winter’s wear and tear.

The Boyfriend Hat is the hat you wish he had so you could steal it from him. Or is it the hat you have that he wants to steal from you? I don’t know… Just make two. -Laura

Update: New Colors

October 2014

To celebrate Line Weight’s newest colors we made a fall 2014 set of Boyfriend Hats, this time in the rich and spicy colors of the season! For the full story, additional pictures and all the yarn details, just click here!

In September 2014, we made a new set of Simple Stitched Hot Pads in the wild and painterly prints of the newest Nani Iro fabrics! For the full story, additional pictures and the materials list click here! – See more at: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/12/14/mollys-sketchbook-simple-stitched-hot-pads/#sthash.vraYvY2V.dpuf

In September 2014, we made a new set of Simple Stitched Hot Pads in the wild and painterly prints of the newest Nani Iro fabrics! For the full story, additional pictures and the materials list click here! – See more at: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/12/14/mollys-sketchbook-simple-stitched-hot-pads/#sthash.vraYvY2V.dpuf

In September 2014, we made a new set of Simple Stitched Hot Pads in the wild and painterly prints of the newest Nani Iro fabrics! For the full story, additional pictures and the materials list click here! – See more at: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/12/14/mollys-sketchbook-simple-stitched-hot-pads/#sthash.vraYvY2V.dpuf

Materials

Yarn B: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. I used the color Toasted Charcoal (shown above in the left photo) for the Women’s Small and Oyster Gray (shown above in right photo) for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small.

4 stitch markers, 1 of which is a different color or type to indicate beginning of round

NOTE: If you are making a solid color hat (pulling two strands of a single color) rather than a marled hat (pulling a strand of two different colors), you’ll need 1 (1, 2, 2) total skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight.

The gauge is the measurement of how many stitches you can get per inch in the pattern. You need to know how large your stitches are in order to know how large the final piece will turn out to be. A gauge swatch is a little sample of knitting that you create to measure the stitches you can make with the specific yarn and needles required for a certain project. Its always best to make a square that is at least 4″ x 4″ so you have ample fabric to measure.

9 3/4 stitches per inch in the 1 x 1 rib pattern is what you should yield for this pattern. That means that in two inches of knitting, you’ll get 19.5 stitches. This gauge is purposefully extra tight, so keep in mind that if you are a looser knitter, you will likely need to use a needle size smaller than US #3.

So to modify this pattern for a toddler… You may have noticed that there is a 16-stitch difference between each size in the pattern. If you take 16 from the smallest cast on number you’ll get 128. 128 divided by the stitches per inch give you approximately 13 inches. This rib, especially when worked with two strands of of Line Weight, has a ton of elasticity. An unstretched 13-inch circumference may just be perfect for a toddler (average head size of 18 inches).

After you cast on, work in the 1 x 1 rib until the hat measures approximately 7 1/2 inches. Then…
Set-Up Round: [Work 32 stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, place marker] three times, work in established pattern to end of round.
Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, p2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 four more times. [48 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, [k1, p1] two times, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [40 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [32 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [24 stitches]

Hi Jenny.
I think would make that same toddler size as I recommended for Lauren here in the comments section.

As I wrote to her, you may notice there is a 16-stitch difference between the cast on numbers in this pattern. If you took off 16 stitches from the 128-stitch cast on I suggest for a toddler size, you’ll have 112 stitches. 112 divided by 9.75 stitches/inch equals about 11.5 inches in circumference, unstretched. This would be really pretty snug for the average one year old. It would be more suited for a newborn.

So if you don’t mind looking at what I wrote to Lauren, I think you can follow those instructions too. The only alteration you may want to make is to only work 7 inches from the cast-on edge rather than the 7 1/2 inches that I suggested for the Toddler size.

Jenny, please let us know if you have any questions at all!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

So in…
Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, then you work in the established pattern knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns until you’re to 2 stitches before the next marker, then ssk, and repeat everything from * to the end of the round. [8 stitches decreased]

Then, in…
Round 2: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, p2tog, and once again work in the established pattern knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns until you are to 2 stitches before next the marker, p2tog tbl, and then repeat everything from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]

Hello I was wondering if it was possible to make a video. I really love how this beanie looks and I want to be able to make it but I am having trouble understanding the knitting language. A video or even links to were I can learn the casts would be so great. Thank you!!

I’m afraid, at this time, we do not have a video for this pattern. You can either use a long tail cast on or a long tail tubular cast on. The latter is a bit more complex, but does provide some extra stretch and give. The prior does the trick though and if you’re interested in a video, you may want to try searching YouTube for “long tail cast on”. There are several there!

Thank you for the link to the tubular cast on! I did make a hat with that cast on previously and loved the finished edge. But then couldn’t remember how I did it. Other than I cast on straights and moved stitches to circulars. Love Purl Soho and all the helpful tips and support! Thank you! Needles up ☺

I’m knitting this pattern but with 108 stitches. I’m ready to start shaping the top of the hat but I only have 4 double pointed needles, so I’ll only be able to split it into three. How can I finish the hat?

Hi Remmy.
Thanks for writing in.
Fortunately the pattern is not written according to needles. You do not have to use 5 double pointed needles. I only used 4. The instructions for shaping the hat are not written per needle, but rather based on where the markers are. You’ll be just fine with 4 needles. I do hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any additional questions!!
Laura

Hi Remmy.
You can definitely put 36 stitches per needle. Keep in mind though that there are 4 points of decrease and so sometime along the way, you may have to shift stitches from one double pointed needle to the next in order to work the pattern (ie have two stitches next to one another to decrease). This may not be totally clear until you experience it. Please don’t hesitate to write back in with any questions! Hope you enjoy the hat pattern.
Laura

Hi ! This is exactly the hat I want to make (everything on your site is beautiful!), but I want to use a super bulky yarn instead. Do you have any advice for scaling the pattern to a new yarn size (and also for a 20″ head)?

If you’d like to modify this pattern though, I’d love to help! You may have noticed that there is a 16 stitch difference between each of my cast on numbers. I would suggest taking that smallest cast on number and subtracting 16 until you have the right number of stitches for your gauge and circumference.

If you’ve worked up a swatch and have a gauge (number of stitches per inch), write me back and I’ll help you figure out the math of it all!

Thanks for writing in Mary.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura

Hi Laura, what type of yarn should I use for making hats, and what’s the stretchiest. I can’t find merino wool at my local craft stores I’am trying to make the boyfriend hat from expression fiber arts. Thanks in advance

Hi Wilma.
I see that Alyson already responded to your other question, but I wanted to mention that pulling two strands together adds to the stretchy-ness of this already stretchy stitch pattern, 1 x 1 ribbing. I would recommend finding a natural animal fiber (like wool) which has an inherent elasticity, two strands of that together should give you quite a stretchy hat!
Laura

Hi Laura, I,m trying to make the boyfriend hat from expression fiber arts and I want to make it XXL so if you wouldn’t mind looking it up and doing the math for me please that would help a lot Thanks in advance.

The largest size of the hat does stretch very significantly! Its too large even for our tallest male employee! Since the pattern is inherently very stretchy, I don’t think you’ll need to add any stitches. If you would like to still make it larger, just make sure to add stitches in a multiple of 16 so that the decreasing at the crown won’t get thrown off. Are you able to get the correct gauge (9 3/4 stitches per inch)? As long as you are getting the same gauge, these sizing tips will apply!

Then we have to take into account the actual pattern. You’ll notice there is a 16-stitch difference between each of my cast on numbers in the pattern. So let’s take that smallest cast on number, 144, and subtract 16 until we find the numbers closest to our approximations above…
96, 112, 128

Ok so now let’s take those numbers and divide them by your gauge and we’ll have your new finished dimensions measurements. Once we have those, you can decide which hat is best for you!
96 (112, 128) / 6.5 = 14.7 (17.23, 19.6) inches

So pick whichever finished dimension you’d like and cast the associated number!
Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura

I made 3 hats to this pattern Fall/Winter 2014. Two were gifts, one was for myself. This is a great pattern. It is lightweight, and seems to adjust to temeratures (?). I’m not joking, it’s not too hot in cool weather, but very warm when it is cold outside. It was the very first pattern I have ever knit with such small needles, fine yarns, and two of them, to boot! The yarns are just elegant, wonderful to work with. (Great when watching “Downton” and sipping tea!) My cast-on was a little too loose at first. I learned. I had some problems handling two delicate yarns but found that stainless steel bowls of disparate sizes – nested – worked very well. I eschewed high contrast yarns…I will not be afraid to be bolder in 2015..

Could you please help me with the decreases? I must be missing something!

When I attempt to do the following:

Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]

I count only 4 stitches decreased per round. I’ve knitted the smallest hat, CO144 and I’ve got the rounds set up as 36 stitches per round. Any help you could give on this front would be so appreciated!

In Round 1… Both the “k2tog” and the “ssk” are a single decrease. Since you do everything from the * to “repeat” four times total… that comes out to 8 decreases. 2 decreases per repeat with a total of 4 repeats = 8 stitches decreased per round.

I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!!
Laura

Hi Helena.
I’m glad you wrote in. If you take a look at the cast on numbers, you’ll see there is a 16-stitch difference between each. Unfortunately 100 stitches does not work with the shaping in this hat pattern. I would recommend casting on either 96 stitches or 112 stitches. And then yes… for that set up row, you’ll want to evenly place those markers and you get that by dividing your cast on by 4!

I do hope these tips help! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

I line weight the same as worsted or smaller. I like this pattern but I think my yarn is bigger than line weight more like worsted. I am using Amano Warmi – 100 gr – 164 yd, 5mm needles. How many stitches would I need to cast on for a woman small or medium? Thank you.

Doubling Line Weight accomplishes the same gauge as about a sport weight or light dk weight yarn. A worsted weight yarn is thicker than what we recommend for this pattern, but if you’re comfortable modifying the pattern, I’m sure a it would work up beautifully at the larger gauge.

If you’d like to modify this pattern though, I’d love to help! You may have noticed that there is a 16 stitch difference between each of my cast on numbers. I would suggest taking that smallest cast on number and subtracting 16 until you have the right number of stitches for your gauge and circumference.

Thanks for writing in and please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura

Thank you for replying. I am going to go back to Wabi Sabi, my local yarn shop and switch the yarn to a sport weight or light dk as you mentioned that this would be equal to the double line weight. Thank you for your help.

Hello Maricelys.
I’d love to help you get on track! Essentially you just need to decrease 4 stitches and then make some slight modifications as you go.

Work this row before starting the crown shaping section…
*[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern (knitting the knit columns and purling the purl column) for 57 stitches, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]

Then you can work the Set-Up Round.

Then, when you continue… keep in mind that you’ve already decreased at 4 of the 8 decrease points. In the pattern Round 1 instructs you to k2tog and ssk and Round 2 instructs you to p2tog, ptog tbl at the decrease points, but for you, since you’ve already decreased at those 4 points, you’ll need to read your knitting and alternate your decreasing method accordingly. After the set-up round, in the following round you’ll need to decreases purlwise where you’ve already decreased once and then knitwise where you haven’t decreased yet. In the following round after that, you’ll need to decrease knitwise above where you previously decreased purlwise and decrease purlwise above where you previously decreased knitwise.

I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks.
Laura

Hi Charlotte.
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid this hat is only offered as written, in a 1 x 1 rib. But… Have you seen our knitting gallery of hat patterns? We have loads of other free hat patterns there!
Thanks again for writing in and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Laura

Dear Laura.
I’m translating this pattern from english to norwegian and I’m having trouble understanding what K1 P1 for times means?(Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round.) Does that mean I shall knit two tmes four – eight together before k2tog?

Also “Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (six, seven, eight) more times. [48 stitches] ” – I work with 144 stitches. How many times do I repeat Rounds 1 and 2?

I think you’ll be able to conquer the shaping of this hat after checking out all of these tutorials. Thanks for writing in Alexandra. Please do not hesitate to write us back with any additional questions.
Laura

This pattern does require you to knit with two strands of Purl Soho’s Line Weight. You could also chose to knit with one strand of Sport or DK weight yarn as well. If you are knitting with two strands of the same yarn, if you wind it in a center pull ball, you’ll be able to work from both ends of the skein (the end that comes from the center and the outside of the ball).

Please let me know if this wasn’t clear! Best of luck and thanks for writing it! -Alyson

Hi, I really like the colour of the lighter beanie in the examples, and I noticed in the notes you had previous mentioned using different combinations of toasted charcoal, grey fig and heirloom white. But to make the light coloured beanie what colours did you use..? Was it heirloom white and sea salt..? If you could let me know what you used I would really appreciate it.
Thank you so much,
Kind Regads,
Ailie

I want to knit this hat for my son in the man’s medium size. Because he lives in Los Angeles, I planned on using just one strand of the yarn. Otherwise, I think it would be too warm. Would I have to cast on twice the number of stitches to get the correct size? Thanks

You would have to cast on double the amount of stitches but also use even smaller needles. This hat is surprisingly breathe-able for being 100% merino! I am from Los Angeles actually and I think this hat would be awesome for the chillier mornings and evenings, even on the West Coast! To save you some extra math homework, I would recommend knitting the pattern as is! The strands of wool are both so thin that the fabric isn’t overly dense.

So am I understanding correctly that when you cast on, you’re casting on with both strands of yarn, together? So you’ll have 144 (160, 176, 192) (depending on size) when you cast on, and each of those cast-on stitches consist of two yarns? So each stitch you knit you’re knitting both colors together at the same time (as if they were a single strand?) Thanks!

Hi, I love this pattern thank you so much for putting it together! I was just wondering, for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small, and the Women’s Large/Men’s Medium, do those also require 1 skein of each yarn color (2 skeins total) for a marled hat? Or since they are larger do they require 2 skeins of each color (4 skeins total)?

I would like to block this hat so that it does not stretch out, do you have any suggestions for the best way to keep the rib from expanding?

I used 1 strand of merino and 1 strand of Alpaca which I know is a bit stretchy when wetted, if anything I’d like to shrink this hat a tiny bit. Should I avoid blocking altogether or is there a way to block it and maintain the size or slightly reduce the circumference?

Honestly I would refrain from blocking in this case since you are correct about your fibers being especially prone to stretching when wet. There is no way to prevent ribbing from stretching since that’s inherent in its design, but one trick I’ve used a bunch of times is to add a small strand of elastic thread around the edge of the cuff so that it anchors the ribbing while still being stretchy. Give it a try! -Alyson

We don’t have a version of this pattern available in Super Soft Merino but we do have a lot of other great hat patterns that use that yarn! Here is a link to our hat gallery, I would recommend the “Snowy Day Hat”.

Oh Jen…
I’m reluctant to admit this, but think I probably did the same thing a time or two. At this fine of a gauge, I doubt anyone will notice but you. Feel free to rip back and fix it if you’d like, but you could also just carry on!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

I’m a beginning knitter (I’ve made only the most basic hats in the past) and I think this hat is beautiful. I’m having a very hard time getting started and so I’m going to ask some very BASIC questions and then beg for forgiveness:
1) I purchased the Purl yarn that was suggested, do I make each color into a ball before I start? Everything keeps getting tangled!
2) When I cast on and stark the k1p1 pattern, I’m having a really hard time keeping yarn from twisting around on the round needles – in fact, after k1p1, I can’t even tell which was is up or down!
3) speaking of casting on, does the first slip-knot count as number 1? After k1p1 throughout the first round, the second round is so confusing because of the double-thread. I have a hard time even knowing where the next stitch is.
Thanks for your help!

1) YES! Wind each skein into a ball of yarn. This will help with the tangles.
2) Rather than casting on and then immediately joining in the round, you may want to work a single foundation row first. Then when you join to work in the round, you’ll have a better idea of which way is up and which is down what’s a knit and what’s a purl.
Foundation Row: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
3) The first slip knot does count as your first stitch. Yes.

Please do not hesitate to write us back with any questions at all! That’s what we are here for.
Thanks for writing in Heidi.
Laura

Hi Nell.
Sadly we don’t have any shots of this hat on a model. We’ll have to remedy that! You can find a few on Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-boyfriend-hat-2). This hat can be knit/worn slouchy or more like a beanie. Are you planning on wearing it cuffed or uncuffed? If you’re going to wear if uncuffed then you can follow the instructions and you’ll have enough height for some slouch. If you’re planning on wearing it cuffed and want it to be slouchy, then I recommend knitting evenly for an inch or two more than the pattern suggests before shaping the crown.

I do hope these tips help! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

Hi! I’m not sure my last comment posted but I’ve been working tirelessly on this hat and am now ready to shape the top, but I used a thicker yarn and can’t figure out the math at all. I had to scale it down to 90 stitches and my gauge is 5 stitches x 6 rows = 1″ in 1×1 rib, unstretched. Help would be greatly appreciated, thank you so much!

Thanks for writing in. If you take a look at the cast on numbers, you’ll see there is a 16-stitch difference between each. Unfortunately 90 stitches does not work with the shaping in this hat pattern. I would recommend casting on 96 stitches so that the decreasing at the crown won’t get thrown off.

I do hope that this advice is helpful! Please let us know if you have any questions

Would this pattern still work if I used only one strand of yarn? If two would definitely be better, do you need to do anything special while knitting or is it the same process, just using two loops of yarn at a time instead of one?

Thank you so much for writing in! You would need to adjust the pattern if you wanted to knit this with one strand of Line Weight. If you use two you don’t need to make any adjustments. You don’t need to do anything special when knitting with two strands, you’ll just hold the two together and knit as usual. I do recommend knitting a sample swatch just to make sure that you get the correct gauge for this hat!

Thanks for writing in and my apologies for the delayed response. This hat is knit in the round so there will be no turning of your work. You will cast on and then join the work in the round, knitting and purling as noted in the pattern. Additionally as there are no edges, save for the bottom, there will be no need to slip stitches to create a neat edge.

I need a little help with adapting the pattern. I’m trying to knit the women’s medium/ men’s small size with a worsted weight yarn. On US size 3 needles I’m getting 8 stitches per inch. Would that mean I should cast on 128 stitches to get an approximate 16 inches circumference unstretched? I’m using the Berocco Vintage yarn (52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon) for somebody who gets too itchy from pure wool. Thank you so much!

Thank you for writing in and our apologies for the terribly delayed response. Based on the gauge you are getting, 128 stitches seems correct. Should you get a different gauge, just note that the number of stitches will need to be a multiple of 16 in order to maintain the shaping in the crown decrease.

I have some HiKoo Simpliworsted that I’d like to make a hat from. The weight of the yarn is heavier that what you’ve used, and I love the simplicity of this pattern. One of my friends has made two and they become beloved hats.

Can the pattern be adapted for my yarn? If so, what would you suggest? I’m not experienced enough to know quite what to do. Thanks!

Hi! I love this pattern and have some bulky weight yarn (Alafoss Lopi) that I want to use for it. Is there any way y’all could point me in the direction of some resources on how to adapt patterns for larger sized yarn? Or if you wanna just let me know how to do it, I’d take that too 🙂 Thanks a ton, I’m so appreciative of the help!

We love that you love this pattern! The weight that you want to use is significantly different than the weight of yarn in the pattern. I suggest that you loosely follow the cast on for our Super Soft Merino Hats for Everyone and edit the pattern thusly based one your 1×1 rib gauge in the round in your yarn of choice. By loosely, I mean that you will eventually need to divide your stitches in three parts for the decreases, so make sure you cast on an amount that you can divide by three. You will measure the same length from the cast on edge before decreasing, but will have to adjust the division of stitches for the decreases, as this yarn requires much less stitches on the needle.

Can you tell me if I’m on the right track for the round 1 decrease? I read thru the comments and made a paper grid to help with the interpretation but also wanted some feedback before I begin.

Using the #176 cast on I have 4 markers. One color to indicate beginning of row and three others of another color spaced by 44.
Begin with k1p1 x4,k1,k2tog followed by established rib pattern (next stitch is a p) to last 2 stitches before next marker which is a ssk. Do this 4x for a decrease of 8 stitches.

I am stumped at round one when starting to decrease the hat. If I k1, p1 four times, then k1, k2together I am then starting again with a purl stitch. I don’t think that is correct. Please help me.
Thanks!

Thanks for your question! The pattern is correct as written. When you k1 and k2together, you are knitting over 3 stitches that would be k1, p1, k1. This would leave you on a p1 on the other side. The k2together will look more like a ridge than a k1 in the final project. I hope that this clears things up!

Hello,
I made this hat and I’m IN LOVE. Just wondering though, I finished this about 1 month ago, and after regular use, the shape is a bit stretched out. I used 100% wool. Do you think that this is a result from my knitting or from the yarn, or is this normal?
Thank you

Thank you for your question! It’s totally normal for your hat to stretch out a bit after regular wear, especially if you used all natural fibers. If you are going to make it again I recommend making the next size down, it will be a bit tight at first but then it will stretch to fit perfectly!

Hello! I’m having quite a bit of trouble with this hat. I’m a fairly advanced beginner knitter, so I’m finding it a little bit frustrating that I can’t figure out what is happening. Hoping you can help!

I started knitting the women’s large, and it was far too big. I ripped out and started knitting the women’s medium instead. I have knit 4 inches of the 1×1 rib, with #3 needles, line weight merino yarn, and 176 stitches. I just did a check to see what the circumference was, and I am at 23 inches at the base! According to the pattern, it is supposed to be 16 inches. I went to check my gauge (which I did before I started, as well) and I am about 7-8 stitches to an inch, when the pattern says I should be at about 9. Why is this happening?

Thank you for your question. I would be happy to try to help you. Are you measuring your swatch stretched or unstretched? Also, are you doubling the line weight? If you cast on 176 stitches then you are knitting the Women’s Large/Men’s Medium size. I would recommend you cast on for the Women’s Small size. I find that this size fits most people. Since the hat is knit in a rib stitch it is very stretchy. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Allison! I actually mistyped and I indeed have 160 stitches, not 176. I’m measuring my swatch unstretched, and it is still so big! I can rip out and re-start with the smallest size, but I am concerned that the same thing will happen and it will be far larger than the pattern says it is going to be. Should I be using smaller needles? Is there anything I’m doing wrong?

Thanks for writing in! You might be a loose knitter and that is ok! I would go down a needle size or two to achieve gauge. If you achieve gauge then you will have the best chance at getting the hat size you want. Moreover, a tight rib will wear better than a loose one in my experience. Good luck on this hat! It’s well worth it!

This is a wonderful pattern. I made this with one strand light worsted, #3 needles, and 144 stitches for a finished hat at the measurements of the Men’s Medium size. I especially love how the pattern of decrease comes together at the top of the hat so nicely. If I made it again, I would consider making the hat just an inch or two longer as I would like to have a slightly thicker band. Thank you for the wonderful pattern. It’s going to be the perfect gift for my boyfriend.

I originally cast on 160 stitches for the men’s small size hat, however I forgot this and getting down to the shaping step, I placed markers at every 36 stitches and began decreasing accordingly before realizing my mistake – would I be able to finish the hat despite this if I just decrease evenly, or does this ruin things?

If you cast on 160 and have, but have placed markers every 36 stitches you will end up with one large section that has more than 36 stitches. This will skew your decreases, so I suggest you rip back if you have started decreasing and place your markers in the correct position. This hat pattern is so great when it’s finished! Good luck to you!

Greetings from Sydney Australia.
I love the Heirloom White in the photos of the Boyfriend Hat. Which other colour is used with it (not the charcoal), it is hard to see if you have used just the white or is it Heirloom White and Oyster Grey?
Thank you
Effie

I made this hat for my husband and his stretched out a ton and he can’t really wear it anymore. I’ve made a couple for myself too and I’ve noticed the same thing starting to happen. Is there anyway to keep this from happening. So it there different yarn I could use that wouldn’t stretch out so much?

Thanks for writing in! Merino wool can grow a bit and this has happened to me too. I suggest you go down a needle size or do a size smaller than desired for your next boyfriend hat. Also, you could try using Anzula brand yarn in Squishy held double (fingering weight) or Cricket held single (DK weight). Anzula is a blend of superwash merino, cashmere and nylon. They nylon retains shape and keeps the knit from stretching out.

I dont know WHAT is happening… but ive started to shape the crown of the womens medium size hat (160 cast on) and i divided my round into 40 stitches and started my decrease… however, im confused by the first round… when it says to *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round)

After i k2tog, at the end i go to (k1, p1 four times) again but its now (p1, k1) and when i get to the k1 before the k2tog its a purl stitch not a knit stitch and the decrease starts to look funny… like the 1×1 ribbing changes and doesn’t continue in its pattern.

IS this normal? i dont wnat to keep knitting just to have to rip it out.

Thanks for the question! Do not fear! You are doing great! After your k2tog you should have a purl up next. “Work in established pattern” means that you are going to knit your knits and purl your purls as they come. I hope this helps you!

I have made three of these hats and am working on a fourth. Everyone who sees them wants one and I am happy to oblige. It knits up fairly quickly and is giving me practice with double pointed needles. Double pointeds scare me, but I am slowly getting comfortable with them. Thanks for a great pattern.

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