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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Drafting a Simple Band Sleeve

This sleeve is great when you wish you'd drafted a bodice with kimono sleeves, but you didn't realize that until the bodice was already cut and assembled. No problem! This simple little sleeve mimics the look of a short kimono sleeve, but you can cut it on a different grain than the bodice for some visual interest. (See the finished dress modeled here.)

As the name implies, it's just a simple band. It doesn't have a cap or require any easing. It's wider at the shoulder and then tapers to very narrow underneath the arm.

Here's how you do it. Measure your front and back armholes, excluding the seam allowances. (Double click pictures to see the text better.)

Start drafting. You'll have a line the length of your total armhole, with the center marked with a circle.

Now draw the outer curve.

Finish up the pattern.

Cut four of your sleeve pattern, 2 for the shell and 2 for the lining. Stitch each set together along the curved line, right sides together. Understitch the lining. Stitch the short ends together and press open. Flip sleeve right side out and press. Baste the raw edges together and then treat it as one.

Sew your sleeve in as usual, but don't worry about easing, as it should fit exactly. Match your circle up to your shoulder seam. I finished the raw edge with my serger to keep it very neat.

Just curious - do you join the short (1") ends at some point in the process, or do you overlap them somehow while setting in the sleeve? I don't see a seam in the photo that shows the inside of the bottom of the sleeve.

Gretchen, this post was VERY timely indeed. You solved an issue for me and I've just used this technique in a remaking of a historic (for me) dress. Here's a post about my experiences using your technique! http://renaissancebombshell.blogspot.com/2011/11/grand-maternity-dress.html

Excellent tutorial. I was really happy to see emphasis on the importance of a center mark! You made the tutorial very easy to follow and understand. We'd love to feature this tutorial @ Sew-Whats-New.com

Hi Gertie, I just drafted this little sleeve with a slight modification and it went fine. Thanks for the tutorial! I set a link to your website in my blog, I hope that's o.k. for you?Greetings from Switzerland:berry