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Originally posted by Route 66:Mark Nemeth has some good info on his site.

Hello Dirk -- I used your link and read Nemeth's article. Really good stuff! This is a bit off-topic, perhaps, you can let me know if I'm out of line.... but, he make's a statement that I've never heard before, about how one can replace the converter with a 3-stage charger and that the battery charger will do everything the converter does, including run the 12v system. Ever heard this kind of thing before? It seems that I read a lot about converters going bad in these forum posts.... Maybe the charger would be a smart move. Whadaya think? At any rate, thanks for the link! If I'm in violation, maybe you could move me a bit?

I am still having trouble with my 2-6V batteries overcharging from, apparently, the alternator. It puts out a consistent 14.7 volts which just boils out water. I have to add water every 500-1000 miles.

Well, I took it to an automotive electric specialist today and he checked the alternator finding it works fine. BUT-

When driving, I have a toad, I run all RV and toad lights keeping a pretty good load on the alternator.

I have finally decided to kill (added switch) the isolation relay and just allow the alternator to charge the engine battery. Since we rarely dry camp, my use on shore power, PD9260) should keep the house batts up. If not, I can either run the gene. or throw the isolator switch to allow the alternator to do the job.

Another possibility is to install a solid state isolator for ~$200 and right now, that's too much $$.

How about a big resistor between alternator and house batteries to step down the voltage a bit? In fact, a diode would do it - they have a forward voltage drop and can carry more current than commonly available resistors.

I would also think the alternator regulator could be adjusted to reduce the output voltage. It shouldn't be over about 14.4 and 13.7-13.9 would be even better. It's basically a voltage feedback loop, so I'm guessing the voltage that the regulator sees is low, causing it to increase the alternator output. A poor connection in the line that feeds system voltage to the regulator would cause that. I recall one Class B that had a similar problem and the casue turned out to be a corroded terminal on the ignition switch. That terminal fed voltage back to the alternator whenever the ignition was on and engine running, and the corrosion dropped the voltage fed back to the regulator by around 0.5v, forcing the rest of the system to run at a very high voltage.

__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition
Home is in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
Summers in Black Mountain, NC

Most converters from reputable manufacturers are 3 stage and have been for some time. The same is true for of course for 3 stage chargers. The difference being the converter supplies 12 v to the coach whereas the charger will not. Using a charger the 12v coach power is supplied through the batteries. The same is true for Inverter/charger combos.

Clarification please.
Do you add a converter to thge system that you inverter operates on? The converter takes 120VAC and changes it to 12VDC and the inverter takes 12VDC and changes it to 120VAC? Correct?
Then if that is the case you would ADD the converter. And not remove the inverter? And what load level should you get?
Thanks
Chet

To charge the coach battery and supply all the 12 V that is needed for the lights and all the control panels (water heater, refrig, Air conditioners, furnace) and the water pump. Your battery wont supply the power for very long without it.