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I've done all mine on the trailer. I hear the recommended method is when it's in the water, but I'm not a big fan of sitting idle on the water while I check all of this. I'd rather be having fun. I think checking it on the trailer is an equivalent method.

Well, I'm happy to report that I was successful in getting the engine and prop shaft coupling aligned. With phone call help from Doug (Docdrs), and some advice from Al, I was able to tackle this.

As I mentioned previously, when the coupling bolts were removed, and the two couplings were pulled away from each other so that the fit on the v-drive coupling was not engaged to the prop shaft coupling, the propeller shaft would naturally sit about 1/8" to the Starboard of the v-drive coupling. Sitting in this orientation, when mated up, the prop shaft was constantly being pulled to the port side. You can see in the first two photos below the offset of the two couplings.

So, to align the couplings I had to move the front of the engine. I loosened the front two trunnions by releasing the two trunnion pins. Then, using a crow bar, I was able to move the engine to the starboard until I was able to get them to line up. To check that, I repeatedly would check how the fit on the v-drive coupling affected the prop shaft when the two coupling were brought together. As you can see from the third photo, I had to move the engine about 1/4". Marking the trunnions prior to moving the engine was important, so you know where you started, and how far you've gone. The last two photos show how the coupling mates up now, just like it should. The photos have a bolt in them, but that bolt slips in very easily, meaning the couplings are concentric, and the prop shaft, when coupled with the v-drive, is still in it's 'natural' position.

Once I got the two coupling concentric, the next task was an engine alignment. This involved a lot of minor tweaking of both the front and back trunions, and more up and down movements than the side to side.

When raising or lowering the front of the engine, be sure to make a mark on a flat of the nut you will be turning and the top of the trunnion, so you know how many revolutions, or 'flats', you have turned the nut. Also, when raising or lowering the back of the engine, be sure to make identification marks so you know how many turns you've made, and to help you make smaller incremental changes (I marked the threads and the flat part of the trunnion in several locations).

I was able to get everything aligned to within .002 or less. It took me several hours to do all of this, as I was doing this by myself, but this is MUCH better than it was, and I am very pleased that the couplings are aligned, and everything is in it's natural state. The propeller turns much easier now as well.

Thanks again for all of the advise I got. This was kind of fun - though my knees weren't happy with me for about a day.

Great job .....thanks for the clear pics.....good to see more guys tackling this
btw , nice chattin with ya.....cheers

Thanks again Doug. I appreciate the help, and was a pleasure chatting with ya.

Just a word of advise to anyone who tackles this, and decides to replace their coupling bolts. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads prior to tightening things up. I made the mistake of assembling the new coupling bolts and nylocks dry. The 4th one decided to gall on me - and it galled to the point of siezing. So, 35 minutes later (I was using a dul hacksaw blade first - then switched to a brand new one and it cut like butter) I was able to get thru the bolt. I removed the ones I had already tightened, and replaced all with new parts, and put nickel anti-sieze on them. Two of the three that I removed that had already been tightened were galling as they were coming part.

Just a work of caution here. It shouldn't have been this difficult, but, who knows. Maybe just got a bad batch. But stainless has a tendancy to gall, and if it does, it can be a day ender. I got my new hardware from McMaster, as I couldn't find anything local.

Thanks again Doug. I appreciate the help, and was a pleasure chatting with ya.

Just a word of advise to anyone who tackles this, and decides to replace their coupling bolts. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads prior to tightening things up. I made the mistake of assembling the new coupling bolts and nylocks dry. The 4th one decided to gall on me - and it galled to the point of siezing. So, 35 minutes later (I was using a dul hacksaw blade first - then switched to a brand new one and it cut like butter) I was able to get thru the bolt. I removed the ones I had already tightened, and replaced all with new parts, and put nickel anti-sieze on them. Two of the three that I removed that had already been tightened were galling as they were coming part.

Just a work of caution here. It shouldn't have been this difficult, but, who knows. Maybe just got a bad batch. But stainless has a tendancy to gall, and if it does, it can be a day ender. I got my new hardware from McMaster, as I couldn't find anything local.

Happy time!

So why did you decide to replace the bolts? I just loosened mine, moved the engine, then tightened them back up. I did not have any galling issues.

Al, I decided to replace the bolts because it looks like the bolts had never been tightened from day one. I think it was last fall, during winterizing, that I found all four bolts were loose. I removed one at that time, and found that the threads that weren't covered by the nuts had been flattened from being worked back and forth. I'm guessing, seeing that damage, that these bolts had never been tightened. I just felt better replaceing them... but then, right on cue, I had issues (the galling). It's all good now, but just frustrating. The old studs were in decent shape besides the flattened threads.

So I am sitting in my boat as I tyPe this, been working on this all day minus 4 hours when the sun was directly over head. Mine was way off and I had to raise the front of the engine half a turn and am now trying to adjust the left right movement and this thing will not budge. I have the 2 pins on either side of the rear loose and am using a 3 foot pry bar and giving it my all, any suggestions?