completed my costume-except for a small
handbag filled with cameras and film. The
Saudi Ministry of Information had arranged
special permission for me to photograph the
pilgrimage.
Pilgrims Ring Ka'ba 250,000 Strong
That afternoon we sped in my Land-Rover
along the four-lane expressway that connects
Jidda with Mecca, 45 miles away. Not so long
ago the pious crowds crossed these sands on
swaying camels. Now fleets of taxis, trucks,
and buses hurried the pilgrims on their way.
Soldiers examined our passes at the check
point just outside the sacred precincts, which
extend roughly 15 miles from the city. Signs
in English and Arabic warned: RESTRICTED
AREA, MOSLEMS ONLY PERMITTED.
We passed huge new mansions and army
barracks in the sandy outskirts of Mecca.
Then, as we rounded the foot of a hill, the
holy city itself burst into view.
"Labbayka Allahumma Labbayka!" At the
sight, we shouted the traditional pilgrim's cry.
"Here I am, at your service, 0 God!"
A wide avenue cut through the labyrinth of
tall pastel-colored houses that crowded a pro
tected valley and climbed up the steep black
hillsides. Modern shops and hotels lined the
square around the Haram Mosque, Islam's
holiest shrine.
We washed; then, carrying our sandals,