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Salmon is a very popular fish for cooking but can be challenging to make interesting. A few years ago, I came up with a spicy, crunchy coating made from crushed wasabi peas. Using wasabi paste to help adhere the pea crumbs adds an extra layer of intensity to the spicy salmon.

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.

2. Season the salmon lightly with salt and pepper. Stir the wasabi powder with enough water to make a spreadable paste. Spread the paste on the skinned side of each fillet. Pulse the wasabi peas in a food processor until they are coarsely crushed and spread on a plate. Dip the coated side of each fillet in the peas to coat, then press them to adhere.

3. Heat the oil in a very large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the salmon, crusted side down, and cook until the peas are just beginning to brown, about 3 minutes. Carefully flip the fillets over and transfer the skillet with the salmon to the oven. Roast until the salmon is barely opaque with a rosy center when pierced with the tip of a small knife, about 5 minutes.