The Nikon Creative Lighting System offers a comprehensive selection of revolutionary portable tools to match virtually any need. Whether used for simple on-camera use at a family gathering or in multiple wireless off-camera arrays, Nikon flashes operate in perfect concert with Nikon’s CLS compatible cameras.

Nikon imaging software is as important to imaging excellence as the quality of NIKKOR lenses and the capabilities of Nikon cameras. Powerful, sophisticated Nikon software—a vital link in the chain of creative control of the imaging process.

Whatever your level of experience and with whatever camera brand you shoot, there's a class for you! We will inspire you, help you master new techniques and improve your picture-taking skills by providing clear, direct information on a wide range of technical and creative topics.

Nikon Sport Optics

From casual weekend outings to rainforest excursions to the safari trip of a lifetime, Nikon Sport Optics give you the ability to clearly view every detail in crisp, brilliant color at a respectful distance. Choose from the range of legendary Nikon optics—binoculars, scopes, rangefinders, digiscoping adapters and accessories—for your viewing needs.

Archived Products

As we develop exciting new products, some older products inevitably must be retired, no matter how beloved. Never to be forgotten, we maintain the key information for these products—tech specs, user manuals and more.

DVDs & Books

Nikon Ambassadors are some of the most talented and influential visual artists working in the business today. From workshops to trade show platforms, online learning and social media; Nikon Ambassadors represent the most versatile and ambitious photographers today.

Photography Glossary

Nikon Imaging Apps

Nikon Apps include educational apps such as the Learn & Explore, NIKKOR and ACC and Manual Reader 2 apps, as well as the Nikon Image Space image sharing app and apps for connecting select cameras to a compatible smartphone or tablet via Wi-Fi (WMU and Connect to S810c).

Learn & Explore Tip of the Day

August 2, 2015

Use a polarizing filter to lessen or eliminate reflections from glass. This works really well on windows of stores or cars. But the trade-off is that your exposure will be a bit longer, as the light is cut down by almost two stops.

On photo sharing sites like Flickr you can often view the details of a photograph and take a look at the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other settings. While this won’t teach you how to create a photo from scratch it will show you what technical choices photographers made to capture their images.

If your COOLPIX camera or NIKKOR lens has image stabilization (Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction), know when to use it and when to turn it off. If you don’t know how your stabilization system works, turn it off when you’re shooting with a tripod. If it doesn’t sense that the camera is solidly mounted, it can add movement while trying to reduce blur.

Always use your lens hood (if you have one) or buy a lens hood (if you don’t). The lens hood isn’t just good for preventing flare. It can keep you from losing the contrast of your images as well as protect your front lens element from raindrops too.

When shooting a portrait of an athlete, use fill flash (or flash turned on even in daylight) to light up the shadow areas under a hat or helmet. This will balance the light from the entire scene and light up the face. On a compact camera, the setting to choose is "Flash On."

Look around you when you’re shooting at sunset. The objects that look boring during the day magically come to life when the rays of the sun hit them. Buildings, cars and anything reflective take on a special quality at sunset.

If your camera can capture images in both RAW and JPEG format, do so even if you don’t work with RAW images now. These RAW files have the highest image quality possible, so you can edit them years from now and be sure you’re getting the best looking image possible.

Shooting a lightning storm can be exciting. Use a tripod and set you camera to record a long exposure. With DSLRs, 15 seconds is a good start, but you may have to use up to 30 seconds, or bulb setting (where the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button). Because you never know when the lightning will occur, keep shooting for best results. Remember to always keep a safe distance, and don’t forget the tripod to avoid blurry photos!

Take a self-portrait each day for a week or month (or a year). It’s harder than you think to take an attractive photo of yourself, and if you do it for long enough you’ll have an interesting series that shows how you’ve changed over time.

Look on photo sharing sites for inspiration for your next photo shoot. Pick a subject you want to photograph or a location and search for photos of that. You’ll see a wide array of different techniques and styles that will inspire you.

Don’t stop shooting after the action has finished in sports. Get in close on a happy or sad face … a celebration after a goal … or the dejection on the sideline after a loss. The emotion of the game speaks volumes and can really round out a series of pictures.

If you live in a city or near a big photo store, find a photographic rental house and rent a lens that you don’t have. Take a telephoto lens to a ball game or rent a wide-angle lens and take it camping. This will give you a chance to try a new piece of equipment and expand your photographic horizons.

You should format the memory card in your camera on a regular basis. By using the camera’s built-in “Format” function, found in the menus, you lessen the chance of having card problems in the future. Doing so is better than just deleting the images using the camera or the computer.

Take a step back. No, farther back. See what the scene looks like from far away to get perspective. Walk around it, to see it from different angles. There’s a tendency to rush up to something and take a photo, but if you look at it from different angles you’re more likely to find something you would otherwise have missed.

Most cameras with built-in flashes have a red-eye reduction setting that fire several quick pre-flashes before the main burst of light. Turn this off if you’re not photographing people because it drains the battery and doesn’t help light up your scene.

Make a great team picture. Get the team together in front of a nice background—maybe the goal, the net or the team logo on the field or floor. Shoot the ordinary, and then let the kids have some fun, making faces or funny poses. That’s the one they will always remember.

At a wedding, watch what the photographer is doing and pick something different to shoot. If the photographer is shooting the cake cutting, take pictures of the band. If the photographer is shooting the bouquet toss with a wide-angle lens from behind the bride, use a telephoto to capture people trying to catch the flowers. You’ll capture a part of the wedding that wouldn’t have been documented otherwise.

It’s always best to shoot group pictures in a location that tells something about the people. For example, shoot the sports team on the field instead of the parking lot. Try to think about how the background, or setting, adds to the story of who they are.

Do some photography pro bono. Find a charitable organization in your area that can’t afford a photographer and offer your services for free. The group will end up with a precious resource it wouldn’t have had access to; and photos of an event or service the organization provides can help it get funding.

Try to buy the fast and large memory cards. Speed ratings on the cards are important for live action shots, especially when you’re shooting in sports or continuous scene modes, or at the highest frame rate. That will allow the camera to shoot at its fastest frame rate with little worry the camera will have to pause to offload images to the card.

Freeze the sports action. The key is using a high shutter speed. On compact cameras, use the sports scene mode. On a DSLR, pick a high shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or above. This will freeze almost all action. If the light is low, adjust your ISO to a higher sensitivity (800-1600 ISO), which will allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

Place your subjects equally away from the camera when shooting a group. Avoid placing any of your subjects a lot closer to your camera than others. That can lead to some of your family members being out of focus or just looking a little out of the mix.

Babies are great subjects because they’re so darn cute. Focus on the teeny body parts with a macro lens. Pudgy hands, small ears, and teeny elbows—they’re even cuter when they’re the subjects of your photo.

Use a small flashlight to light up a scene. Put one behind or under an object at night to create an interesting glow or use it instead of a flash. Take long-exposure shots using a flash as a light source and you can create interesting glowing sections of your photos.

Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.

When photographing cars, try getting a different perspective. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the hood ornament with the hood stretched out behind. Get low and shoot up on the car. Grab a ladder and shoot a bird’s eye view. You’ll create a photograph that captures a car as art.

When shooting nighttime landscapes, use a low ISO (400 or below if possible) while working from a tripod. Open your aperture to F/4 or F/5.6. This will allow you to have a shot full of detail and of good quality. Remember that night shots need a subject, just like day shots.

Corporate Profile

Nikon is the world leader in digital imaging, precision optics and photo imaging technology and is globally recognized for setting new standards in product design and performance. The unique strength of the Nikon brand attributable to the company’s unwavering commitment to quality, performance, technology and innovation. Nikon Inc. markets and distributes consumer and professional digital SLR cameras, NIKKOR optics, Speedlights…

Highly advanced optics

Nikon technology for superior imaging

The outstanding capabilities and superlative performance of the AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4 are the result of Nikon’s latest advances in professional imaging. Optimized for FX-format cameras but equally powerful on DX-format cameras, the AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.4G ED unleashes the full potential of advanced D-SLRs.

Lens Simulator

Lens Construction

MTF Curve

Product Tour

An anti-reflective coating developed by Nikon that virtually eliminates internal lens element reflections across a wide range of wavelengths.

ED (Extra-Low Dispersion) Glass

An optical glass developed by Nikon that is used with normal optical glass in telephoto lenses to obtain optimum correction of chromatic aberrations.

AS

AS stands for Aspherical lens elements. This type of lens utilizes non-spherical surfaces on either one or both sides of the glass in order to eliminate certain types of lens aberration.

M/A

Select NIKKOR lenses have a focusing mode which allows switching from automatic to manual focusing with virtually no lag time by simply turning the focusing ring on the lens.

Rear Focusing System

A system in which only the rear lens group moves during focusing, thus eliminating changes in the physical length of the lens during focusing and enabling faster focusing. Such lenses are designated with RF on the lens barrel.

Excellent, Bright, Wide Angle lens
The Nikon 24mm f/1.4 wide angle lens is amazingly sharp when hand help in dark situations. Below is a photo taken at night, hand held, at a shutter speed of 1/125 of a second, an aperture of f/1.4, an ISO of 1600, Auto White Balance, and Matrix Metering.
December 7, 2014

captured images are so creamy
I chose the 24mm f/1.4G ED as my first serious lens when I upgraded and bought a new camera even though it was the pricier of the other f/1.4s which I would eventually get. i ran into some auto-focus issues that turned out to be just me not knowing how to use my new camera which the people at the store were helpful familiarizing me with the different auto-focus settings such as A, S, and C. ever since then, i had no problems with the lens focusing. i mainly keep my camera on AF-S, but occasionally use AF-C in sports.
i now photograph with prime lenses and i have used the 24mm f/1.4G to cover occasions and sporting events. personally, my favorite subject photographing is my dog and places we go together. i love the creaminess at it's fastest setting and the sharpness in it's slowest. i enjoy the creative possibilities with this lens.
i hope you have room in your camera bag for this lens or better yet, on your camera in your hand.
October 20, 2014

24mm f/1.4G is worth the high price
Love the lens. It is a perfect compliment to my D800E. I do recomment stopping it down to 2.0 for better color corner to corner (some vignetting at 1.4). Really becomes sharp from f/4.0 to f/16. This is a great landscape and interior focal length. Resolution is a good match for the D800E. I expect this to perform well with future cameras as demands on lens quality continues to be challenged.
November 8, 2013

Outstanding Lens
This is a great lens. Matched up with a D800e, it captures incredible detail and dynamic range. Combined with its fast aperture of 1.4, it is a very versatile and capable product. I was amazed at the colors captured with this combination (D800e and 24mm) while taking pictures at the National Conservatory and in the DC area around the monuments. I was able to hand hold the majority of the shots, keeping an ISO below 400 (100 for most of them) and still have shutter speeds fast enough to eliminate any blurring or loss of sharpness. When I saw the picture later on my computer, I could hardly believe the range of colors that were captured of the flowers. The fast aperture allowed me to focus on the main subject within a frame, creating a soft and very pleasant bokeh. Those shots I took using a tripod with very slow shutter speeds are sharp and have great color consistency. Despite the high price tag for this lens, I have absolutely NO regrets for buying it. It is a great product and can really show the capabilities of a D800e when matched with this camera.
March 13, 2013

Completely an outstanding lens
Unfortunately my current camera body (D80) doesn't really support the highest quality of this lens, I'm so amazed by this lens and the high quality of the lens, such as the motor is extremely quite and quick. I've only had this lens for a short time (sorry guys but only for a day), but the good news is that I've taken over 200 pics with it yesterday and now it's is clearly one of my most favorite lens that I have in my camera bag! All I have to say is thank you Nikon for making such a high quality product. Now I'll have to upgrade my Camera!
December 17, 2012

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Yes it is excellent for night photography and the results are stunning. On the other hand, No lens is able to freeze movement by itself. What you will need is a knowledge of photography to dial in the appropriate settings on the camera for freezing movement. You will need to understand at least the basic of photography. Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO makes up Exposure. If you don't know, you can start reading here.http://imaging.nikon.com/history/basics/

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Nikon operates factories all across the globe and each operates to the same high standard. While individual cameras are marked with their country of manufacture, we cannot make a blanket statement about the country of origin of a specific type/model of camera.

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I was impressed by the many reviews on how sharp the 24mm F1.4 Nikkor was and how little coma it had for such a super fast aperture. However, when I used it with my D800 for simple wide field star photography, shooting around 4-8 seconds at F2.0 or smaller, the coma was so excessive in the corners that stars looked like oblong drips or squashed saucers. This is not star trailing but textbook coma. I expected some coma but not so pronounced as to render at least 1/4 of the image unusable. In other words, the presentable portion of the overall field is really the areas as what would be covered by a 28 or 35 mm lens that did not suffer so much corner coma. Does this sound normal, like a lemon, or a repair issue? I have attached a video. Thanks.