Reached the summit by southern route from Bargah Sevom in 7.5h (left shelter @ 5:30am). Cold and windy but mostly sunny on the way up - whiteouts, freezing fog on the way down, rapidly changing weather every second hour. Still lot of snow. Overall good climb, Damavand is a beautiful peak.

Big mountain. Long and terribly exhausting climb mainly due to poor acclimatization for such altitudes and soft snow on the way but step by step, meter by meter. Freezing cold, but sunny days. Three German skiers summited Damavand the same day. Great adventure, great memories. Wish to have occasion to climb Damavand from North one day. Iran - people & landscapes - perfect travel destination.

Attempting the south route from Polour together with Johan Dahlström and Mark van Gessel. Three nights (16-19 Sept. 2009) up in the nice, new hut at Bargah Sevom at 4.200m. Freezing cold. Slept with downjackets. Fierce snowblizzards; snow and almost zero visibility. We were forced to turn around up at 4.800m on 18 Sept. The GPS turned out to be very handy. In a complete whiteout and with loads of fresh snow on the slopes it is very easy to miss the hut on decent. If I ever would try this mountain again it wil sure be one month earlier. The week after we experience +45c at the island of Qheshm...
Iran was very intersesting and the people were very warm and friendly! Sa'laam!

Climbed this mountain with a HT group from the Netherlands and our Iranian guide name Ali. Started walking from the Khatoon Barghah pas and reached through the still empty Lar nature park the base camp two days before. Camped on the roof top of the cabins that night but the wind destroyed a pole of one tent.

Next day (Sunday, one before the top) we went up to the Barghah-e-Sevom, light rain we did meet many groups telling us the weather was too bad (and would remain bad) the next days. New hut at 4250m was open but 3..4 degrees, quiet cold if you are just sitting.

Next morning weather was great, above the clouds, only slightly high winds; we started around 06:00, still quite some snow and were about 12:40 at the top. Not too windy so we could enjoy the view.

Went down with crampons and the "butt slide technique" ;-) and were back about 14:50.

Unofficial route. I didn't want to pay for at least three reasons, so i decided to avoid a normal route. Took it to the right from mosque. Find some bivak place in about 4000. Then directly to the top, in about 5000 traversed to the west, to join the official path.

This south route is not hard but we had problems with the electicity that I feel it and scared me a little, start snowing near the summit and I had problems with the gazes cause running from the electricity sometimes we got into it. I heard that the north route is harder. I liked very much Iran maybe someday I will come back :).

The First Trying and the First Success to ascension Damavand SummitDate Climbed: Aug 7, 2007

The First Trying and the First Success to ascension Damavand Summit …I have only one experience to climb to Damavand … I Climbed to Damavand Summit from Northern way … we were 7 people ….but one of our friends couldn’t continue the way after Camp 1(4000m)… we could achieve the Peak in the 3rd day …I’m happy that I could stand on the Highest dot of Iran….It was Fantastic to Stand on 5671m Height…Because it was my First Travel to Damavand I thought that it is Impossible for me to ascension the Peak in that Sleet Weather …but by God’s Help and also My Friend’s Helps I Made Possible the Impossible for Myself…Thanks God