Description

With a pile of easy to moderate routes, and nice flat ledge area to hang, great views, nice position and good routes, it's easy to see why the Tower sector is one of the more popular spots on Monte Cucco.

A relatively small sector that contains around 20 popular routes. Can be very crowded. The rock will be polished which can make some of the features a bit slippery giving some routes a bit harder feel for the grade.

Grades here range from fairly easy and fun 3c and 4b with the popular routes at 5c up to around 6b. Several harder routes in the 7 and 8 range available as well.

Visually apparent as the tower in the middle of Monte Cucco with a prominent corner area just left of the large flat face of Settore Centrale. The right side of the corner contains a number of easy multi pitch routes with good protection and large, bucket holds.

The Torre itself contains the classic namesake route, La Torre, and several other two pitch routes on vertical rock with pockets and groove cracks.

Routes are a handy 20 to 25 meters per pitch, so a single 60m rope and a fistful of quick draws would suffice for gear. A few thin shoulder length slings could be used for threading holes and a few stoppers and cams can be used here to shore up any uncomfortable space between the fixed protection which consists of a mix of glue in and expansion bolts.

The popular rappel route is the Diedro Canale in the back corner of the crag should one find themselves on the summit plateau.

Getting There

From the parking lot, follow the trail on the left side parking lot for around 5 minutes and when reaching near the wall at the Cucco 2 sector, branch to the right.

Look for a short scramble up to the ledge at the base of the large corner area.

Short distance just left of the Settore Centrale sector (ie, if you walk past the up climb in the trees to the ledge).

The classic two pitch route and the namesake route of this sector.One of the earlier routes at Monte Cucco.Climb up a steep, kind of polished, strenuous and tricky face on exact pockets, to a slightly left slanting crack which straightens out as one progresses straight up. Belay anchor on face just left of a bush and right of a bigger ledge in the trees. 5.9+/5.10a. 25m.Climb to the right and up, above the bush. Follow the cracks/grooves up and past a shallow roof to a belay stance and ancho...[more]Browse More Classics in International