Ask locals what 'Guelaguetza' means to them and there are a variety of answers. That should be expected. In Oaxaca everything has more than one name and anything that has one name usually has more than one meaning.

To better understand the event, we’re asking readers to compare and contrast the annual celebration in Mexico to the biannual Te Matatini in New Zealand. One aspect of the Kiwi celebration we particularly like is that English-language translation service is broadcast on local radio and streamed online so that those who do not understand the Māori language have some interpretation, a service sorely lacking with Guelaguetza. We’ll discuss this further during Indigenous Peoples Week.

Some of the most colorful celebrations in the Americas takes place in the southeastern corner of Mexico.

Since 1932 the city of Oaxaca de Juárez and neighboring villages have put on a show of indigenous cultures that inspire locals and visitors alike.

The Guelaguetza is one of Mexico's premier celebrations of dance and music and has roots that date back to ancient times and in the "dance" genre since 1932. Also known as Lunes del Cerro ("Mondays of the Hill"), this is the largest folklore festival in the Americas.

2017 celebrations are scheduled Monday, July 17 and 24. The state-sponsored Guelaguetza takes place at the auditorium on Fortin Hill . Smaller Guelaguetzas are held in towns in the Central Valleys, including Zaachila, Cuilapam de Guerrero (near Zaachila), San Antonino Castillo Velasco (near Ocotlán de Morelos), Tlacochahuaya, Reyes and Villa de Etla.

Indigenous Roots

The festival links indigenous traditions with the Catholic faith and occurs on the two Mondays following July 16th, the Day of Saint Carmen, except when July 18 falls on a Monday, because that date is reserved for the solemn commemoration of the death of President Benito Juárez in 1872. In that instance Guelaguetza is celebrated on the last Monday of July and the first Monday in August.

The roots of this festival honor indigenous deities, particularly Centeotl, the Zapotec and Miztec goddess of corn.

The Sunday before the event begins a young woman is chosen to represent Centeotl. She is chosen on the basis of how well she represents her community.

In one translation, the word "Guelaguetza" corresponds to paying off social debts. The word Guelaguetza comes from the Zapotec language and means "reciprocal exchanges of gifts and services." At its center is an exchange of products and services, an age-old tradition of "paying it forward."

The term Guelaguetza derives from the Zapotec term "guendalezaa" which means "offering, present, fulfillment." The term was used during colonial times as the prerogative of the Spanish elite to receive the first and best of the harvest collected by the indigenous people.

Gifts are cataloged and repaid at other guelaguetzas. This tradition is voluntary, contrasting with the "tequio," obligatory communal work which also plays an important role in social relations.

Of special interest is the translation of Guelaguetza in Teotitlán del Valle. According to Zeferino Clemente Mendoza Bautista, it means the Tortilla from the Zapotec farm (Tortilla de Milpa Zapoteca)

Flying Pineapples

Dances range from solemn to raucous expressions of local culture. At the end of each dance, each delegation presents their own "guelaguetza" to the audience by throwing small fruit, hats, and even coconuts and pineapples.

The audience stays alert to catch the gifts and to avoid getting hit by projectiles. Pineapples sting the most.

Related Events

While the formal dances occur only two days each year, the entire month of July is filled with folk art and gastronomic exhibitions.

There are numerous festivals on July 16 - the Day of Saint Carmen - as well as a convite 9 days earlier on July 7.

Other related events in Oaxaca City include an eye-popping sale of regional folk art and theatrical events including Donají, La Leyenda.

Pedestrian-friendly Alcalá Street becomes dancer-friendly on late Saturday afternoons (before the Monday Guelaguetza). The celebration begins with Oaxaca's famous Calendas, a colorful parade of participating delegations and led with giant papier mache figures.

Essay

Does Oaxaca value tourism? Not as much as other areas of Mexico says Dave Miller. He writes:

At the end of the week I took my group to see the Guelaguetza at the Quinta Real Hotel in the Centro Historico de Oaxaca. This is a smaller version of the larger Guelaguetza presented on the hill every July. My group enjoyed the presentation and for the most part, the food. But my travel agents had another observation that really cuts to the heart of the matter.

Speaking of Italy, where they facilitate luxury tours, they said any presentation like the Guelaguetza we saw at the Quinta Real, were it to take place in Italy, would make sure the emcee was able to explain the event in not only Italian, but English and French as well.

Imagine how the simple act of explaining the various movements of the Guelaguetza in different languages would open up a great event to a larger audience. And I am not just speaking of the event at the Quinta Real that Friday night. What if the larger event in July had a multilingual host for the thousands of people who attended? That would say to tourists that Oaxaca really cares about them and wants them here in the city.

Two reactions:

I take issue with the idea that Oaxaca is doing more poorly than other states. I'm of the mind that ALL city and state tourism offices are lacking when it comes to meaningful engagement with locals and visitors. That said, Oaxaca holds a special place in my heart and the Guelaguetza(s) are the best place to start to present some alternatives that benefit locals and visitors alike.

On my wishlist would be for these performances to be translated for the outlier audience who do not speak Spanish as a native language. It's 2016. Let's use current technology. As to translating into English, take a look at Te Matatini --http://planeta.wikispaces.com/tematatini --
in New Zealand. The bi-annual event celebrates the cultural dance of the Māori people. Over four days audiences experience the best kapa haka in the world, taste Māori food and local delicacies and shop for Māori arts and crafts. Just so you know, Ngati Kahungunu hosts Te Matatini February 22 - 26, 2017.

Hakarongo Mai provides a free, simultaneous English translation service throughout live stage performances. The service aired its first translated broadcast in 2007 after festival organisers recognised a need to cater for the significant numbers of tourists and English-speaking audiences attending the festival.

The service has continued to grow in popularity, and demand, with subsequent festivals. In 2015 festival goers were able to listen in on their smartphones and access free Wi-Fi. The translation was available on local radio, livestreaming audio and archived! Have a listen:http://irirangi.net/Directory.aspx

Guelaguetza Magisterial

Features

Etymology

What does "Guelaguetza" mean? There are several definitions - ranging from a "gift or offering" to "dances" to an intricate payment scheme. Interestingly, in Teotitlan del Valle, according to Zeferino Clemente Mendoza Bautista, it means "Tortilla de Milpa Zapoteca."

Misc

Timewise, official Guelaguetza lasts the same time as an extended superbowl

The 'big days' are the two Mondays after July 26 (Saint Carmen's Day) when the regional dances are performed in the ginormous auditorio, but the atmosphere that pervades Oaxaca is a 24/7 celebration that transcends the hours of the big dance itself.

Keep an eye on the Oaxaca Wiki for news of related events, special promotions in the markets and our favorite tips for foodies.