Dining review: Weezy's brings trademark burgers to Mill Valley

At Weezy's grass fed shed in Mill Valley, the pagan burger ($3.50) is topped with Maytag blue cheese and grilled onions. Named to honor owner Louise Clow's father, who helped start Anchor Brewing Co. with Fritz Maytag (he of the home appliances and the creator of Maytag blue cheese), the burger's name takes on a different lilt than originally intended. Meant to be pronounced like the noun (\'pa-gen\), meaning heathen or one who has little or no religion and who delights in sensual pleasures, many diners order it as (\pa-GAN\), or the name of the Giants' centerfielder.

No matter. The staff at Weezy's interprets your order. Clow, who opened the newest Weezy's in part of the former Hawk's Tavern space on Miller Avenue's restaurant row, had been looking for a space to expand almost from the day the Terra Linda Weezy's opened three and a half years ago. In the original shed, "we could not accommodate the crowds," says Clow, who brings the same kid-inspired approach to the Mill Valley location.

Burgers are sized for minor-aged appetites and, at 1/8-pound, one naked burger ($3) with fries was more than enough for my kindergartner. (I needed two.) Every burger is made with Prather Ranch beef and a locally sourced bun just the right size for absorbing the jus. With the condiments purposefully on the side (there is a sideboard with condiments, utensils and to-go bags), waste is minimized and your child can add as much or as little ketchup or sriracha as they like.

Larger appetites and families can order a 6 pack ($25) or a 12 pack ($50) and mix and match flavors and fries. The B-Rad burger ($4), topped with Tillamook cheddar and thick-cut, nitrate-free bacon and the white trash burger ($3.50) with homemade Thousand Island dressing, American cheese and organic shredded iceberg lettuce, are best-sellers for a reason. Call it high-quality greasy food but the eggy bun and high fat, traditional toppings made for palate-pleasing burgers. A gaucho burger ($3.50) sported mango chimichurri sauce while a bloody hell burger ($3.50), with BBQ sauce and pepper jack cheese, was named for a regular who works at the firehouse across the street from the original shed.

Vegetarians can choose any topping for the moo-less veggie burger ($3.50). Always cooked in a separate area and with a separate spatula from the beef, the bulghur and chickpea burger patty was hefty and satisfying. Fresh herbs and vegetables lightened the texture. Regular fries ($2.25) or sweet potato fries ($2.75) were neither too skinny nor too thick and were served piping hot.

Clow expects a license for beer and wine to be in place soon, if not already. Three white and three red wines ($6 per glass) and six beers ($6 per glass) will then be available, each from its own tap. One of the taps will pour Anchor Steam with the other five also sourced from local breweries.

"The plan then is to expand into the dark half of the restaurant," says Clow, who wants to bring the casual, patio-dining vibe indoors with picnic tables.

For now, Weezy's, which opened in June, is two rooms. The ordering counter fronts the open kitchen in the first room; the second room has a few dark wood tables and a narrow, yellow cushion-topped bench that invites lingering. Tall, green-cushioned bar stools and tables on the patio overlook Miller Avenue. Every table holds a small condiment station and a sign urging you to "bus your own table."

At Weezy's, they do three things: burgers, fries and lemonade. With an eye on quality, the burgers aim to please the whole family's palate. Indulge in the sensual pleasure of a burger that's one part angel and one part devil. Paganism is the all the rage.

Christina Mueller writes about food for local and national publications as well as other industry clients. Send her an email at ij@christinamueller.com.

review

Weezy's grass fed shed

Address: 507 Miller Ave., between Reed Street and Camino AltoPhone: 888-2680Website: http://tinyurl.com/lpbmkgtCuisine: Grass-fed burgers and homemade veggie pattiesService: CounterNoise level: LowRecommended items: Veggie patty, naked burger, gaucho burger, white trash burger, sweet potato fries.Liquor selection: Wine and beerCorkage: NAHeart-healthy and vegetarian selections: YesGluten-free selections: All burgers available with a lettuce bun.Dog friendly: YesWheelchair access: YesParking: LotHours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., daily.Credit cards: All majorPrices: $10 and lessReservations: NoSummary: Open since early June in the old Hawk's Tavern space on Mill Valley's Miller Avenue, Weezy's grass fed shed brings the same straight-forward menu of juicy burgers, French fries and lemonade that are served in the original Terra Linda shed. Burgers are 1/8 pound, perfect for small appetites but families can order burgers by the dozen.