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INGREDIENT TIP These are not yams In supermarkets in the United States, so-called yams are most likely sweet potatoes. True yams, which are common in many parts of Africa, are a totally diff erent vegetable. While they slightly resemble sweet potatoes, the diff erences are more striking: True yams have thick, oſt en bristly skin and pale, starchy fl esh. So why do so many stores call sweet potatoes yams? T e confusion dates back to when enslaved Africans referred to native American sweet potatoes as nyami, a West African word for yam. T e term stuck and has since been used interchangeably with sweet potato to refer to the tuber. T ere are thousands of varieties of sweet potatoes—a few of the right—and they come in diff ent colors both outside and in. For the Maple Cheddar Twice- in diff Short-rib styles Beef short ribs come cut two ways. Englishstyle short ribs (above left) are cut into 2- to 4-inch pieces with one section of rib bone supporting the meat. Flanken-style ribs (above right) are crosscut into strips with multiple bone cross sections. (In Korean cooking, they’re often very thinly sliced, marinated, and grilled.) The Braised Short Ribs and Celery with Celery Seed Polenta on page 55 calls for English-style ribs. When buying them, choose meaty ones from the butcher’s display case, if possible. Why? Pre-packaged ribs often contain one rib I call a clunker in that it’s more bone than meat, and it’s hard to tell that when they’re packed tightly together. When you get the ribs home, trim away only the thickest layers of external fat. Don’t remove the internal layers of connective tissue, or the ribs will begin to fall apart. —J.S. Baked Sweet Potatoes on page 25, we prefer a full-fl avored, dark orange sweet potato w w tapered ends. It’s a vari you’ll fi nd in most sup it might very well be ca —Layla Schlack a yam. INGREDIENT Balsamic glaze A drizzle of thick, tangy-sweet balsamic glaze can punch up the flavor of everything from beef stew to strawberries and vanilla ice cream. In the celery gratin on page 58, it adds flavor as well as striking color. You can find balsamic glaze at stores near the vinegar, or you can make it yourself by gently boiling balsamic vinegar until reduced by two-thirds. (Keep a close eye on it to avoid overreducing.) For long storage, its best to refrigerate it. —R.D. FINECOOKING.COM 93