Doing some maintenance I noticed a little aneurysm on my Regulator/Rectifier connector. Thinking it odd I tried to separate the connector, but it was fused! I hadn't noticed any charging issues before this (no battery whistle or dead battery after sitting). It's a little too far from running condition to check now too. I think I'll at least replace the RR, but I would like to keep from cutting up the connector on a new unit. Anyone know where I can find the mating connector on the stator side (assuming I don't have to buy a whole stator!)?

I got a couple of tiny three way fuse blocks and some other hard to find connectors from him a few months ago. Quick delivery and good service....drop him an email if you don't see what you need, he can source most connectors for bikes.

Thanks for the link Sacal. I'll try them if I find the stator is still good.

The connector looks clean because I cleaned it. I'm not sure what the root cause is yet. Something sure caused a lot of heat generation in there. The bike has 37,000 miles on it, so it could just be a combination of old wire, crap in the connector, high loads (two 90W heated vests + other accessories & HID's firing up?) or who knows... I don't want to rule anything out completely yet.

Cut it out and connect the wires permanently , cut as close to the burnt connector as close as possible because each time you want to disconnect you will loose some more wire . When one component fails order new connectors with the new component . SEYA

I was thinking last night about hard wiring it! It's good to know I'm not the only one who came up with that solution.

Now the question is: Crimp connector with integrated adhesive lined shrink tube, or Solder and use adhesive lined shrink tube?

Those Aprilia connectors are the exact same thing having the exact same problem. It looks like they stay a lot cleaner, so the failure is probably not related to the build-up of crap that the KTM connector gets. Now I'm wondering if part of the problem of Super Enduros eating RR's is that plug.

I was thinking last night about hard wiring it! It's good to know I'm not the only one who came up with that solution.

Now the question is: Crimp connector with integrated adhesive lined shrink tube, or Solder and use adhesive lined shrink tube?

Those Aprilia connectors are the exact same thing having the exact same problem. It looks like they stay a lot cleaner, so the failure is probably not related to the build-up of crap that the KTM connector gets. Now I'm wondering if part of the problem of Super Enduros eating RR's is that plug.

WOW , thats a clean connector, mine is covered with residue oil from sloppy oil changes, I figure it keeps the connector corosion free.. Im wondering what would of caused that type overload in that plug, enough to cook the plastic?

That was a connector sprayed down with brake cleaner to remove the build-up of oil and dirt. If yours is covered in crap it would be a good idea to clean and inspect it before you end up with a toasty sensation on your left toes.

According to some Electrical Engineering friends, for a permanent connection, both crimping and solder are the way to go! Crimping makes a better mechanical connection and solder is a better electrical connection. I took the metal crimp parts out of some crimp type butt-splice connectors and crimped those on. Then soldered and heat shrunk the whole thing in adhesive lined shrink tube. That fooker's REALLY connected now.

The Sumitomo PN ref is correct, but as you state/ask, the source for small numbers is very difficult to find. I have tried this site previously, they may or may not be able to get the parts: http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/

Personally, I would maintain a connector and if replacing the failed connector, then I would replace it with a very common Delhpi WeatherPak that is rated for the current and call it done.

I'll contact them Monday to see if anything is possible. I noticed them and that the item is not open to buy. If nothing is available, I like your recommendation on the Delphi 630 series/sealed. The 40A rating and sealed contacts are an ideal replacement for the short prone unsealed connector on the oem stator/regulator connection.

The Sumitomo PN ref is correct, but as you state/ask, the source for small numbers is very difficult to find. I have tried this site previously, they may or may not be able to get the parts: http://www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/

Personally, I would maintain a connector and if replacing the failed connector, then I would replace it with a very common Delhpi WeatherPak that is rated for the current and call it done.