Advertisement

Vintage watch advertisements and catalogs are one of the most useful ways to determine what a vintage watch should look like, and for what it was originally indended. Over on the Purists, member "Blomman," has crafted an excellent seven part series on the ads and catalogs of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre.

If you have an interest in JLC, this is not to be missed. Click here to be taken to part seven of the series, where you will also see links to the previous six entries.

Last night in Paris, JLC threw the official 80th birthday party for its most famous model, the Reverso. We've shown you several of the new releases in this line for 2011 already (think TT 1931, TT 1931 US Edition, Italian LE), and now we can add one more.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Email is a limited edition of only 50 pieces, and will come with a bright blue enamel dial. While no mention is made of it, we think this is a direct nod to the brightly colored enamel dial Reversos of the 1930s, one of which recently sold for over $35,000.

No word on price for this LE, but it will house the JLC caliber 822 movement and feature a blank caseback for engraving. Look for it soon.

The Deep Sea Alarm from Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been a cult classic. Known by few, it was the brand's first alarmed diving watch, introduced in 1959 in two dial variations - one for the US market and another for the European market. The Deep Sea Alarm was built for two years only and in very small numbers, most JLC literature says around 950 pieces, for both the US and European editions combined. Few have survived, probably due to the environment for which it was built, and while the JLC revived the Deep Sea Alarm concept this year with two new faithtful recreations, there is nothing like an original. And that is exactly what we've found today, but it doesn't end there.

The vintage JLC Deep Sea Alarm we've found today is special. To track an original example of the European edition is one thing (that's pretty hard in itself), but we've found today is an American example WITH original box, papers, and bracelet. The watch is in all original condition with the appropriate unsigned crowns, original caseback with diving motif, and just a fantastic dial.

Again, what makes this watch so special in comparison to, say, the other JLC cult diver, the Polaris, is that:

A) it came first - this watch dates to 1959 while the Polaris was made first in 1965 then more formally in 1968 (*the prototype Polaris dates to 1963).

B) it's far more rare - While most people claim the Polaris was made in only 1500 examples, any one with common sense of the vintage market knows that is simply not the case. At any given time, one can find a handful of vintage Polaris models for sale. Sure, to find a nice early example is difficult, but if there were really only 1500 made, they'd be much harder to find. You NEVER see Deep Sea Alarms for sale, ever.

C) it's smaller - the original DSA is 39mm while the Polaris is 42mm. Sure, it was the size that helped define the Polaris but to us, a great vintage watch should be under 40mm (though the Polaris is undoubtedly a classic vintage piece).

This 1959 Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm US Edition with original box, papers, and bracelet, is for sale via a Parisian dealer (with which we have no affiliation). For more details on an incredibly cool and incredibly rare watch - one that inspired one this year's hottest watches, click here.

Mechanical precision is a big deal at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Fruits of the brand's labor are not hard to find, having taken the two top spots at the Chronométrie 2009 Competition in Le Locle. JLC prides themselves on achieving such levels of accuracy with rather complicated watches, too. Their latest efforts are focused on the Duometre a Quantieme Lunar, and are realized by way of what they are calling, the Dual-Wing movement.

The Dual-Wing, or Caliber 381, is a unique concept that sees the separation of the timekeeping elements of the movement, from the complication elements of the movement. Each is powered by its own mainspring and going gear train, both synchronized by the jumping seconds hand mechanism, or the "Seconde Foudroyante". Thus allowing the watch to be adjusted to a timing signal without stopping the escapement.

The separation of these power sources ensured a more consistent flow of energy to the complications, leading to a more accurate timepiece. Oh, and they aren't skimping on the complications, the 396 part movement features a bi-hemisphere moon phase, and even two seconds hands, one of them a jumping hand measuring out 1/6th sec. increments.

The caliber is divided into two sections, as the Dual-Wing nomenclature would suggest. Each side gets a barrel with a 50 hr mainspring: one for hour, minute, seconds, jumping seconds, the date and moon phases, the other for the escapement device to ensure a constant power supply. Conveniently, each is wound through the same crown, by turing either direction.

The Duometre a Quantieme Lunair is limited to 200 pieces, each with a case of 18-carat white gold (42mm).

With all this hullabaloo around the Reverso and the Deep Sea Alarm, some have overlooked what may very well be the slickest watch from SIHH, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moonphase 39mm. This watch is absolutely gorgeous, and for lack of a better term, "pure class". This is a power watch to be worn with a power suit while making power moves. The best part about it? It's super thin, the perfect size, and not that expensive. Click through for more pics of just an incredibly elegant watch.

This watch is available in both rose gold and stainless steel and features an unbelievably clean and handsome dial. The automatic movement is visible through the caseback and really, this watch is just plain elegant. At only $8750 in stainless steel, this is a watch you could buy now and keep for the rest of your life. This bad boy is never going out of style.

Themed sales do really well, that much is clear. When Antiquorum put on their Omegamania sale in 2007, things got a little crazy (um, over 23,000 CHF for a gold plated Ranchero? If you say so.) There were similiar results in 2008's Rolex Revolution sale. Then, this past December, when Bonhams held their Haslinger Heuer sale, we saw some equally staggering numbers, such as 48,000 POUNDS (not dollars or CHF, but POUNDS) for a rare black Monaco - though to be fair, the black Monaco really is the most bad ass Heuer ever.

Today in Geneva, we saw 30 Reversos go under the hammer and some of them did really well. The highlight of the show was the red enamel Reverso circa 1931 that we showed you here. It sold for 35,000 CHF - about four times the high estimate, or approximately $40,000. While this was indeed the highlight of the vintage Reversos, most of the lots in steel did far exceed expectations.

All in all a great showing and further proof that demand for the Reverso is at fever pitch.

Rollie Fingers and Peppermint Patty: Rolex and Patek Philippe never expected to be mentioned in the same sentence as these two American icons.I once visited a certain American city (located somewhere between NYC and LA) where the local watch community had developed some interesting names for their beloved watch brands. Both the salespeople and the customers collectively referred to Patek Philippe timepieces as 'Patties' and Rolex watches as 'Rollies'. I normally would have immediately left the premise, but was pleasantly surprised by the great selection of watches to be found…

But it did make me wonder if there should be an audio archive of the correct pronunciation of watch brands for all of us to secretly consult in the late hours of the night while our loved ones, who are not equally so obsessed, are sleeping.

Little did I know, it already exists. And, of course, the Canadians came up with it first. Not only are they telling us all how to design our homes HGTV-style, they are also preaching the best way to pronounce our favorite watch brands. Well, I’m the first to admit that I have second guessed my pronunciation of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Sohne. And how about the classic missteps many of us have taken with Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. And, not a day goes by when Jaeger-LeCoultre and Blancpain are not butchered.

Fair warning: this guide is not fool proof; I dare you to call a friend and ask him about his Breitling with the same inflection used here.

In the end, this is just a bit of fun. We Americans have all developed our own ways of pronouncing just about everything.

A Watch Similar To The Prototype No 1 To Be Sold For CharityThe Tribute To Deep Sea Alarm was one of our, and seemingly everbody's, favorite introductions from the SIHH 2011. With only 959 of the European version and 359 of the American version being produced, and buzz on the forums and blogs being as high as it is, these watches will likely sell out very quickly.

Here is a chance to not only buy a Tribute to Deep Sea Alarm, but actually buy the very first working prototype of the watch, No 1 itself. The watch will be sold via auction on JLC's own site, with all proceeds going to the Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary located 500 kilometres of the Colombian coast, in the Pacific Ocean. "Considered one of the world’s most extraordinary diving spots, the sanctuary is extremely important in terms of its marine biodiversity and in particular hosts many shark species, including some extremely rare ones." The money donated will go to help purchase boats and landing equipment to patrol the area against illegal fishing.

The bidding will take place April 18th through April 21st and the watch will have a reserve of £6,950. Those interested in bidding are encouraged to register now, before bidding goes live.

Since this is indeed a prototype, and prototype are always just a little different than production models, we had to ask JLC if there was anything unique to this model that we simply wouldn't see on the remaining 359 America Deep Sea - there is. Apparently numbers on the bezel are different, especially the shape of the "0" of the "10", and and this prototype has thinner minute indexes on the dial. Subtle changes indeed, but very cool.

For more details on this Prototype No 1 Jaeger LeCoultre Tribute To Deep Sea Alarm being auctioned off for chartiy, click here.

The JLC 1931 Reverso US Limited Edition of 100There is no question that Jaeger-LeCoultre's Tribute to 1931 Reverso was one of the stars of SIHH 2011. I've written about it at length both on HODINKEE, and even on TimeZone, and for the FT. It's just that good, and if you don't believe me, track down someone else who has seen the watch in the metal and they will tell you the exact same thing, I promise you.

Just today, over lunch in mid-town Manhattan, JLC announced a very special edition of the TT 1931 Reverso, one that takes an already charming and well-executed watch to a bespoke, artisinal level.

The US-only Limited Edition TT 1931 Reverso, pictured at right, features a strap hand made by one of the world's great crafstman, Eduardo Fagliano. Casa Fagliano makes the finest Polo boots in the world, producing only 80-90 pairs each year. They are worn by champions like Adolfo Cambiaso and royalty alike.

With the Reverso history, one indeliably tied to the sport of Polo, it is only fitting that Fagliano would make the straps for this special piece. Fagliano will only produce 100 straps, meaning there will only be 100 LE Reversos, and all of them will go the the US Market.

The dial on this special edition is different from the TT 1931 too. The markers have a patina to them, and the hands are no longer sword-shaped, but rather straight with pointed tips. The font matches the dial of the original Reverso perfectly. This watch very much looks like a vintage piece - no surprise that I absolutely love it.

While only 100 pieces will be produced for this limited edition, these watches will not be numbered in any way. As Philippe Bonay, US President of JLC, expressed, there is no point in numbering watches - people who know, know this watch is exclusive, and that's all that matters. The Casa Fagliano strap will be stamped with the year, however.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to 1931 Reverso US-only limited edition will retail for $7250 and come with both the traditional alligator strap that comes with the non-LE version and the Casa Fagliano, hand-made strap. It will be available in early Fall 2011 at the Beverly Hills boutique and select retailers.

One thing to keep in mind is that there will only be 100 of these watches and truly spectacular straps made, so if you're interested in one, it's best to place your order now.

Click through for some live photos of the prototype taken earlier today.

Check this beauty out - A Jaeger-LeCoultre Diving Chronograph with Worldtime bezel (Ref. E 2643) in stainless steel. This watch was released by JLC about ten years after the original Deep Sea Alarm, and went by three different names: the "Chrongraphe étanche" (Waterproof chronograph) in France, the "Vogue Chronograph" in the rest of Europe, and the "Shark Deep Sea" in the US. This particular reference was made with three different bezels, too: a traditional diver's bezel, a GMT bezel that looks a lot like a Rolex Pepsi-job, and this purely decorative but cool looking "World Time" bezel.

This JLC diving chrono features the iconic Valjoux 72 movement, is 41mm in size (not too big, not too small), and looks to be in great shape. No, the bracelet is not original, but switch that out for a nice black leather strap, a new bracelet, or even a tropical diver, and you’re talking instant upgrade to your collection.

The seller is offering this at a Buy It Now price of $4,500 (including shipping), but is also considering best offers. So reach out to this seller and see if we can bring this baby home to a HODINKEE reader!

To see the eBay auction ending at 4:09 PM Eastern Tuesday, click here.

Advertisement

Friday March 3, 2012

HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry’s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.