Hey, you! Yeah YOU!
How come you haven't registered? Have you read about our new blue star program? We are donating $10 of each blue star subscription to the Blue Ribbon Coalition to ensure that we will have trails to recreate on for years to come.
Our blue star comes with all the benefits of a red star such as 10 second searching, blue/red star member only giveaways, access to the private blue/red star member forums, etc.

anyone got any good tips or a parts list for a junkyard disc brake swap for a ford 9 inch from a 78 bronco? trying to spend as little money as possible. looking to use a caliper that has the ebrake built into it.

I used Suzuki Sidekick rotors, Subaru front calipers and made my own brackets.

The 93 Subaru Loyale front calipers have a mechanical lever for e-brake and the Suzuki rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Ford axle and fit the Subaru calipers. When everything is all together, the bracket is just a flat piece of plate and no shimming or welding is required.

A few pics:

Super easy to make. The brackets are only held on by the flange bolts in the pics but they will be welded to the axlehousing for maximum strength. As for the e-brake setup, take a look at a Toyota truck setup and that is what I'm going to fab up to work with the calipers.

I originaly wanted to make them from 3/8 but I had some 1/4" lying around so I made them from that. Because the bracket is not offset or shimmed in any way, I think it will be plenty strong. Keep in mind that this axle is going under a LWB Samurai on 35" Boggers. If It was going under a FSB with 40"+ tires I might have found some 3/8" steel plate to make them from instead.

I know you can swap the rear brakes off of a 90's crown vic on to a small bearing 9" rearend (I did it on my 67 mercury cougar), but not sure if it works on the big bearing rearend. Everything is a direct bolt on replatment except for parking brake cables. I did it for under 100 bucks.

I have heard about exporer rear disks off of 8.8's working too.

__________________
I love projects, I have ruined my life with them....

I know you can swap the rear brakes off of a 90's crown vic on to a small bearing 9" rearend (I did it on my 67 mercury cougar), but not sure if it works on the big bearing rearend. Everything is a direct bolt on replatment except for parking brake cables. I did it for under 100 bucks.

I'll try that. My 9" came off a 68 Cougar and is 5 on 4.5. Is the Crown Vic 5 on 4.5 or 5 on 5.5?

I used Suzuki Sidekick rotors, Subaru front calipers and made my own brackets.

The 93 Subaru Loyale front calipers have a mechanical lever for e-brake and the Suzuki rotors have the same bolt pattern as the Ford axle and fit the Subaru calipers. When everything is all together, the bracket is just a flat piece of plate and no shimming or welding is required.

Hi Sean,

I did the same conversion in a CJ7 and I am courious to know the following:

What kind of master cylinder are you using (Could you please specify) ?
What did you do with the proportioning or combination valve??

Off an old lincoln mark VII if (78ish) i remember correctly. The middle picture is the lincoln caliper and rotor and the right is a 81 caliper and 92 4wd rotor (front brakes from f-150s) the calipers are direct replacements for each other (the lincolns have ebrake where the trucks ones donot which could be bad), the truck rotors are slight larger in diameter (like a 1/4 i think) but the caliper brackets are a 2 piece (very strong though) setup and as such you unbolt the two halves and then use a couple 1/8 washers (grade 8 or whatever and some new bolts) to space it out, the flange that the calipe slides overr may need to be taken down with a grinder (get a budddy to sping the opposites axle, be sure the rear end is kept together, then rest a grinder on the flange and go till the caliper slides over nicely.) then bolt everything together and you're good to go other than putting in the mc you got from the car you took the brakes from.

I snagged mine for a 100 bucks, and other than rebuilding the calipers new rotors and pads and playing with the brake lines this is a fairly cheap way to do it.

I did the same conversion in a CJ7 and I am courious to know the following:

What kind of master cylinder are you using (Could you please specify) ?
What did you do with the proportioning or combination valve??

Mario

Hi Mario,

The 9" is going under a Suzuki Samurai so I was going to use the master from a 4 door Sidekick. The front axle is going to be a HP Dana44 with discs so I wanted a master that would bolt up to the firewall without any modification. The 4 door Sidekicks/Trackers have bigger brakes than the 2 door models and will be able to power the D44 and 9" with the disc conversion. They will also be power assisted and apparently I might not have to run a residual valve for the rear as others have done this before and they claim it works.

Another option, ironically, is a CJ or YJ master which I am told has the same bolt pattern as the Suzuki ones. You might be OK with your stock master but you may need to plumb a residual valve into the rear circuit and if needed a proportioning valve after it. (or just a combo valve) My application is a rock buggy so I'm not too worried about a proportioning valve at all. The stock components will all be replaced in my case.

Almost, lincoln caliper brackets, trucks rotors and calipers (if i want too, but this is a street trucks they're going on so i want to keep the ebrake, so rebuilt lincoln calipers but you can go the other way if you want to).

Haven't got to far with this, still just a pile of parts, but if i remember right i think i can use the truck pads which is what i want to do cause they're cheap, i also will be using an inline wilwood porp. valve cause my truck is lighter in the rear than the lincoln and the lincoln p-vavle is probably setup for that so i'll need to turn down the pressure. i';; look at the parts this weekend when i go back to the farm for the weekend.

I just use some stock explorer brackets, calipers, and rotors, just redrill the rotors to the right pattern or buy them from currie. Cheap and Easy, $150 and your set with E-brake and parts are easy to find/get at most junkyards and 100% bolt on.

Hey Toughguy, do you need me to send you some better condition 9" housings? The one in the pic looks so pitted that you should be topping off gear oil once a week....

Yeah well this came off an '80 F150 that spent its life in Northern Ontario. We pave the roads with salt here every winter and it just eats everything. It's still solid enough though....................I hope!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJVigilante

Looks like hammered paint or rhinoliner to me.

Sorry TJ, that really is rust pitted. I think the black paint makes it look worse than it really is but thanks for the idea. I'll just spray-bomb it with that hammered paint and tell everybody it's supposed to look like that!

I just use some stock explorer brackets, calipers, and rotors, just redrill the rotors to the right pattern or buy them from currie. Cheap and Easy, $150 and your set with E-brake and parts are easy to find/get at most junkyards and 100% bolt on.

and this went on a big bearing rear end??
if so how did you shim the bearing to stay in place???

the stock plate is like 1/8" and the explorer one is like 3/8" that is alot of play for that axle bearing to play in...

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.