On Saturday I spent a fascinating fashion day at Snibston Costume Gallery at the Costume Society‘s Utility Fashion in Wartime Study Day. Philip Warren started the day by exploring the social, political and economic context of 1940’s Britain that led to clothes rationing being introduced in June 1941.

Jenny Lister of the V&A museum followed with a detailed review of the Board of Trade Utility collection, which tasked the Incorporated Society of Fashion Designers to produce stylish fashion in accordance with strict wartime restrictions.

Utility skirt suit 1942 Victor Stiebel

Utility suit & coat by Worth 1942

I gave a talk on the Make Do & Mend campaign through which Mrs Sew and Sew encouraged the mending and remodelling of pre war clothing: on hand were examples of a blouse made from salvaged parachute silk, a jigger jacket made from a baby’s blanket, a 1940’s party dress remodelled from a bias cut 1930s wedding dress and dyed and coats made from Victorian shawls.

Currently the interest in wartime crafts is so strong that the Mrs Sew and Sew leaflets have been reproduced in this cute book

A tour of the CC41 Utility Fashion in Wartime exhibition was followed by Professor Lou Taylor’s thought-provoking examination of Paris Couture during the war.

We were lucky to finish the day with two private collectors- Alisdair Peebles and Janet Godfrey of the Kent Costume Trust– sharing their collections with us. And re-enactors Sandra Gribben and Tracey Cork stole the show with their fabulous 1940’s ensembles.

Liberty of London was founded in 1875 by Arthur Liberty who travelled the globe sourcing innovative design in ornaments, furniture, jewellery, textiles & fashion; in Oscar Wilde‘s words ‘Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper’.

The iconic tudor-framed building on Regent’s Street dates from the 1920s when the original store was remodelled using timbers from 2 ships: HMS Impregnable and HMS Hindustan.

For ten years from 1959 the Rank Film Organisation produced a series of documentaries Look at Life. This wonderful film IN Gear introduces, with a hint of incredulity, the shopping meccas of 1960s swinging London. From minis to maxis it’s all there!

The energy of 1980’s new wave band Bow Wow Wow is unleashed for Summer 2012– acid brights, punk styling and the spirit of playfulness graced the catwalks at Christopher Kane, Viktor & Rolf & Betsey Johnson. The energy of punk D-I-Y & 21st century ethical fashion meet in this recycled fashion project. Look to designers Gary Harvey and Angela Johnson who recycle discarded clothing to create fabulous eco-friendly fashion pieces. Using trend research and your own fabulous fashion sense collect thrift pieces in this season’s candy brights to rework into an upcycled garment for Spring/Summer 2012. Create a moodboard to support your design & record the trashion transformation. Don’t be shy- studs, glitter & frou frou are the order of the day!

Fashion design as reality competition is back in the form of 24 Hour Catwalk and Project Runway All Stars and both shows started with recycling challenges. Contestants on 24HC had a mini challenge to turn an American football shirt into an outfit for a ‘soccer mom’ before designing and making 3 pieces for a glamping collection, whilst the All Stars got $100 to spend in a 99c store to create a key look to represent their aesthetic.

Using materials including laundry bags, umbrellas, binders, tissue, safety pins and mopheads some struggled whilst a few designers rose to the challenge and produced creations fit for any fashion catwalk. Rami’s tailored suit and Mondo’s little black dress were the standout pieces.