Charged up the batteries and washed and filled the protank 2 with ejuice. Screwed on the protank and got nothing.
The draw is so tight I cant even pull on it. No Vapor no nothing.
I proceded to unscrew the tank at 1/2 turn intervals until finally i got a vape. but by the time i got a vape there was a huge gap between the protank and the provari. And its loose.
I have tried taking the whole thing apart and re assembling it and am still having the same problem.

I also tried it on an ego twist and it screws down all the way and works fine.
Any suggestions would be awesome.
The only thing i havent tried is to switch the heads in the tank

Yeah, it really is unacceptable stock on the Provari. Pretty disappointing, I even filed the air channel to no avail. I shouldn't have to have it wobbling, half way screwed down for an acceptable hit. Luckily I got it for free. Im going to try the V1 base.

It does work perfect on a Smoktech Winder. And on my Sigelei Zmax Mini, it is pretty sub-par as well, a little better than the Provari, but not much.

I'm not familiar with the Provari Mini but if there is anyway to get airflow by drilling a couple small holes in the upper part of the device.
If you can't do that, just put something small, like broken toothpicks, inbetween the provari and protank.

Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).

Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).

Click to expand...

I'm afraid the air flow controller could cause extra stress on the 510 connector, which would cause more wear than screwing and unscrewing tanks and atomizers. Maybe I'm wrong.

Also - is the an actual Kanger Protank, or from FastTech.
I've noticed one of the differences is that a Kanger has airflow channels cut into the base, and the close doesn't...
If it's working fine on other devices, then it doesn't sound like the coil, it sounds like an airflow problem!

My ProTank has a good draw - not on a Provari though...
I have a related/similar-maybe issue with the T3 not drawing on an SVD!
The ProTank works great, an EVOD works great - but on a T3, the 510 threads are extra deep I think, and the airflow holes get blocked!
ANyway - I'm getting one of those airflow controllers - people also use them to "protect" against wearing our delicate 510 threads on their Mods (if frequent screwing and unscrewing - wear out your $3 part, not your Mod).

I really don't want to add extra stuff to the Provari, its already heavy enough. Filing out the air channels helped a decent amount, I'm going to take a micro drill to the air holes above the threads and I think it will be optimum.

Quick update. After all the mods I made to the Protank V2 base (filed air channels, drilled out air holes above threads), I still had a tight, unpleasant draw on the Provari all the way tightened down. I changed the head I had installed (the only one I had tried and used since getting the tank), and now it hits like a dream all the way tightened. Could have been a replacement head QC issue after all. Silly me. I can honestly say with this thing hitting like it is now on the Provari, it is the best vaping I have had throughout my vaping "career".

Quick update. After all the mods I made to the Protank V2 base (filed air channels, drilled out air holes above threads), I still had a tight, unpleasant draw on the Provari all the way tightened down. I changed the head I had installed (the only one I had tried and used since getting the tank), and now it hits like a dream all the way tightened. Could have been a replacement head QC issue after all. Silly me. I can honestly say with this thing hitting like it is now on the Provari, it is the best vaping I have had throughout my vaping "career".

Click to expand...

I had the same/similar? problem. Got a new pro tank 2 filled it up and it worked great. When I re-filled it and I put back on my Vamo 2 I could not draw at all through it. I put it on my itaste vv and it worked fine. Put it back on my Vamo 2 and I could not draw at all through it. It is nearly new I should not have to file/drill etc. I put the spare atomizer in it and it is working great again!

I put the defective? atomizer in my cleaning cup (shot of everclear) and I will try it again in a few days. I will try to remember to post an update.

Provari airflow issues: do not tighten the atomizer head all the way down into the base, this allows the contact pin﻿ to go further into the bases 510 connection, removing air flow issues on the Provari.

This fix allows me to tighten the v1 and v2 all the way down flush on my Provari with good airflow. I hate having to leave it unscrewed and wobbly.