Alright guys and gals..... I know a lot of you are already in bug season, so consider this your official teaser :) I am just putting the finishing touches on the bug net and filming it. Hoping to have the video up tomorrow :) hope it helps.

05-27-2014, 18:16

natureboy68

Sorry if it has been answered, but what's the weight limit on this design? I'm hoping at least 300lbs...

05-27-2014, 18:59

Big Albino Bear

When I originally made this I was 275 and had my son in the hammock with me. Together we were over 300. Still, I think I would do a double later, which would dramatically raise the max load.

05-30-2014, 00:39

FJRpilot

Great video of the BugNet... Black on black was a bit tough, but I think I get the main parts. Thanks for doing such a great job on all the videos.

Definitely my next project.

05-30-2014, 01:00

Big Albino Bear

Quote:

Originally Posted by FJRpilot

Great video of the BugNet... Black on black was a bit tough, but I think I get the main parts. Thanks for doing such a great job on all the videos.

Definitely my next project.

yeah, it would have been good to do white and black or something again, but I used what I had. Glad it helped. If you need any clarity just ask on here or shoot me a pm.

06-16-2014, 19:01

opie

In the midst of my angst working on my own DIY bridge, your video has given me the ideas needed to overcome the shortcomings I am having to complete my project.

Off to order more fabric.

06-19-2014, 03:34

kayak4water

1 Attachment(s)

For those like myself who misunderstood the diagram on the material sheet (it says "not to scale") on the original post, a little geometry helped me define numbers for the ends, which in the material sheet look like, but aren't, equilateral triangles. On the picture below, the left side measurements mirror those of the right. One needs only to find the point 15" from each edge and 11.5" beyond the end of the hammock body to get the apex of each triangle. The apex is 18.5" from the corners. From the mid-point of the body, at 8.5+15" from the sides, one draws a line to the apex of each triangle. You cut along the sides marked 14.3(") and 18.5" Ignore the 38.4 degree angle (calculated).Attachment 88024

Derivation from material sheet diagram:
A right triangle is defined by the line marked 30", the line from midpoint of the end of the body 47"/2 = 23.5" to the corner of the body and a line from the midpoint to apex of the triangle. the cosine of the angle between sides 30" and 23.5" (or 47") = 23.5"/30"
Using the larger section of the 30" side (30"-11.5"=18.5") and the angle 38.4 deg. and sine function finds the 11.5" height. 15" side follows from either pythagorean theorem or cosine or tangent function. Everything else is easy. Hope I didn't miss anything obvious.

06-29-2014, 18:20

kayak4water

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by kayak4water

For those like myself who misunderstood the diagram on the material sheet (it says "not to scale") on the original post, a little geometry helped me define numbers for the ends, which in the material sheet look like, but aren't, equilateral triangles. On the picture below, the left side measurements mirror those of the right. One needs only to find the point 15" from each edge and 11.5" beyond the end of the hammock body to get the apex of each triangle. The apex is 18.5" from the corners. From the mid-point of the body, at 8.5+15" from the sides, one draws a line to the apex of each triangle. You cut along the sides marked 14.3(") and 18.5" Ignore the 38.4 degree angle (calculated).Attachment 88024

I've made one of these, with a 48" wide x 84" long body, with HikingDad's original angle of ~38.4 degrees (calculated and ignored above ) at one end and 30 degrees at the other end. The original measurements required trimming the end cap after sewing together the gap at the end. Using 30 degrees as the measurements, I did not trim the end cap after sewing and I couldn't tell the ends apart. My approach: on the imagined line from one corner to the other at each end make marks at 16", 24" and 32" Then from the 16 and 32" marks mark a point 9.25" away from the hammock body. Connect the those dots to the 24" mark and to the corners on the same sides, as below and cut on the lines marked 18.5" and 12.2" (about the lengths you'd get if you measured them)

AS others have pointed out, a tighter (lower angle) hang drastically reduces shoulder pressure. Crossing my legs or bringing a hand to midline made things interesting--no falls but a reminder of its lower stability for neophytes like me who started with gathered end hammocks. Lying on my side at the edge of the hammock, I felt I was on the verge of getting dumped, but didn't fall out. A friend laid an air mattress on top and found the ride quite exciting. Mattress users will want to build this as a double layer.

I'm happy that I started this project, but this bridge hammock has implications for use which I hadn't thought about nor read about on HF:

Distance between suspension points. Measurements: Bar to bar 88" and bar to each ring 33" =total 154" (12' 10"). Using whoopie slings adds another 16 or so inches to each end. In practice I'd forgo the whoopies, larkshead the dogbones to cinch buckles and straps. Then I'd look for trees >12' 10" apart.