I live in southern Sweden (Helsingborg) and have been into bikes a couple of times but never tinkered with Japanese bikes. I'm mostly a car guy but I like the challenge...

I found a 1980 cb650z rc03. Bought it for next to nothing... carbs all gummed up, non runner.Got everything fixed to original, passed the inspection.

My mission is a café inspired racer. I want to do as much work as possible by myself, it's a hobby. The bike must be clean and everything that's not really needed has to go. I have no deadline for this build. The bike should be drivable most of the time.

I'll update this first post as the build goes on.

Done

BCR Café seat and battery trayRelocate relay, battery and solenoid to the seat humpExcide AGM 4977 batterySeat reupholstered, black vinyl with diamonds and gray stitching.Replace BCR taillight with Hella Mix'n match LED'sLower the headlight with new brackets, getting rid of the bulky stock contraption.Small led turn signals & led flasher relayNew x-ring chain (gold) with safety wired locking clip and new sprockets.Marshall 4-1 Exhaust, shortened, gutted and custom made larger diameter baffle.Painted and wrapped headers with black Thermo-Tec 2" x 50' and new copper seals.Clip-onsVenhill diy clutch cable kit, aprox 15 cm shorter than originalBar-end mirrorsOCD cleaned, polished carbs, jetted 120/42, needle clip in the middle one washer shim. Velocity Stacks from Steel Dragon Performance with foam filter insertsCalipers media blasted and overhauled with new seals.Drilled rotors TemplateNew stainless brakelinesSpeedBleeders (SB7100S) from www.speedbleeder.comNew brake master cylinder reservoir.New piston, seals and spring in brake master cylinder (MSB-105 Kit for dual caliper RC03)New shifter sealFlushed forks and refilled with 15w fork oilVFR750 alu footpegsRemoved the chain guardRemoved the center stand (but kept the attachment so I can install it in a few seconds)Shaved down the side stand to a bare minimumOverhaul the ComStars. Paint spokes black, hub silver.Relocate horn to under the tankChoke mounted under the front of the seat frame to the left (where the side covers attach)Replace steering lock (no keys when I bought the bike)Shorten/cut front fenderHidden crankcase air filterNew brass swing arm bushingsMedia blasted and painted the lower triple treesNew top triple tree in billet aluminumDitch the engine guardsRFY adjustable rear "piggyback" shocks with painted stock springs.Aluminium muffler hangerCustom oil temp dipstickNew tapered roller steering bearingsDrilled shifterDrilled tank lockDrilled left engine coverDynaCoil coils (green) on custom brackets & DynaCoil wires.Relocate and put new ignition lock under the seat frame with start on key (like a car)Lower the front of the tank about 10mm using offset bushingsTank cleaned and sealedNew adjustable clutch and brake leverNew low profile throttleNew mini handlebar switches from Posh (turn signal, horn and emergency stop)New professional paintjob on tank, seat, headlight and front fender (Mercedes Palladium Silver)Strip down, detab and powdercoat the frame, side stand, swing arm and engine brackets.New tires (Dunlop K70) and new Michelin tubes.Electrical system total rewire, new connectors, wires and sleeves.Relocate (hide) the brake light switch.Relocate fuse box to go under the seat.New adjustable license plate bracket with led lights.Headlight with 2.5" hole for my Acewell speedo from CarpyHigh/Low beam switch on the headlight housing.AceWell all in one gauge to replace stock gauges and idiot lightsAll nuts & bolts on the bike are now stainless in the same strength as original or better.

I would not like to try that with this small diameter frame tubes. Either tricky work with large in-/out holes or small cable cross sections.Maybe place a parallel, black cover at the inner sides instead. Easier for access in any case

JorgenL wrote:Drill holes in the inner "lip" of the ComStars, only for looks

I am not sure if the inner lip might play a role for the connection of the halves. Better find out before you weaken it. You also drilled the disks yourself, right?

JorgenL wrote:Carb mounted choke lever

As the CB650 typically needs the choke for longer than other bikes, I really like to have it in my view so I don't just forget it after a few miles.

JorgenL wrote:Ditch the engine guards.

They can make the difference between just pick up the bike, kick it all back in place and continue riding or get stucked somewhere with a severe oil leak or smashed ignition.

I would not like to try that with this small diameter frame tubes. Either tricky work with large in-/out holes or small cable cross sections.Maybe place a parallel, black cover at the inner sides instead. Easier for access in any case.The diameter of the tubes is a problem. The bikes I've done it on before are harleys with bigger tubes. Might just minimize the harness and weld hidden hangers and rails.

JorgenL wrote:Drill holes in the inner "lip" of the ComStars, only for looks

I am not sure if the inner lip might play a role for the connection of the halves. Better find out before you weaken it. You also drilled the disks yourself, right?I've seen many comstars with holes and some with decorative bolts. But I will see what it looks like when I have them off. Yes I drilled the rotors myself. I know there's a lot of debating if it's good or not. Well it improves braking, especially in the rain. I've done it on a couple of vehicles and I think it's more a "how you do it" than a "if you do it" question.

JorgenL wrote:Carb mounted choke lever

As the CB650 typically needs the choke for longer than other bikes, I really like to have it in my view so I don't just forget it after a few miles.I'm planing on a microswitch at the lever that will keep the warning light in the acewell speedo lit when choke is on. I forget about the choke even when it's in the stock location so it cant get worse

JorgenL wrote:Ditch the engine guards.

They can make the difference between just pick up the bike, kick it all back in place and continue riding or get stucked somewhere with a severe oil leak or smashed ignition.

Never flipped a bike...yet... this one is the first to have guards. I have been thinking about a simple bar just keeping the covers protected if it falls when on the stand. I've seen something like that behind the plastic on some sportsbikes.

Volker_P wrote:Covers should not crash when flipped from the stand but a few meters slipping on the street are sufficient.

I agree that drilled brake disks and pod filters improve safety in the wet. Intended or not.

Haha yea the pods should keep me safe in the wet but a few weeks ago I found myself in the middle of a heavy rain (thunder storm) and I thought uh uh.... now I'm screwed because of the pods and everything I've read about them. But to my surprise the bike actually ran ok through the rain... a litte boggy from 1200-2000 rpm at red lights but other than that no problems. The biggest issue was my face because the lack of a front fender (open helmet).When I got home I let the bike idle in the rain to see what happens when the pods get really soaked and the only thing I noticed was a bit of white smoke from the exhaust... probably just water beeing sucked in.I guess these bikes are really individual, I have a friend with a 750 (with pods) that runs like crap on a foggy day. In the wet he's not going anywhere.

JorgenL wrote: But to my surprise the bike actually ran ok through the rain... a litte boggy from 1200-2000 rpm at red lights but other than that no problems. The biggest issue was my face because the lack of a front fender (open helmet).

I have an open helmet, too, so I know the speeds you like to go in rain then. Without glasses, even a bike running on two cylinders would be too fast in rain.

I am doing a tear down/re-build on my 81 cb650 and want to "cafe" it out a bit on the re-build side of it. I have been seeing those brackets used to move the foot-pegs/rear brake/shifter back on the frame. I have looked around a bit and not been able to find them. Do you have a source that I could look into?

I would greatly appreciate the help!!!

A project bike is very revealing..... like for example..... I've come to realize that every time I project how long something will take, I need to just double it...... I'll then be about 1/2 way there!

These alumina plates are the stock footpegs and controls of the European Z-model. This is the RC03 frame, while 1981 US Standard is RC05.Not even sure if they would fit a US 1979 (also RC03 frame but slightly different).

Yes these are the euro 650z RC03 originals. I am looking into replacing them because I don't have any passenger pegs and I don't want to grind down the plates. They are very thick and bulky.I will probably keep the pegs in the same location, just want a more discrete/open setup. So I'll use the plates as templates when I make new ones.

Not much progress... I've been dealing with license plate brackets and have painted the seat to protect the fiberglass.

Right now I'm looking into lowering the tank.If I remove the tank rubber mounts and just hang the tank without them it goes all the way down to the valve covers.A custom rubber mount with an offset hole might do the trick.I want the tank to sit only a few millimeters above the valve cover.

I have also run into problems with my clutch, when I put on my clip-ons and rerouted the cable slightly it went from easy/smooth to hard and notchy. When I release the cable from the lever and pull it by hand it's very easy. Guess I have to buy a shorter cable.