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author:radovanic
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From: Paul T. Radovanic ( snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net)
Subject: Re: Do you lift or drag your plane back at the end of a
stroke?
View: Complete Thread (16 articles)
Original Format
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: 2001-09-02 07:34:08 PST
I rarely mention this, but I stopped lapping plane soles to perfection
a long time ago.
This is only my own personal experience, so take it for what it is
worth.
I found that soles lapped to a mirror finish caused *more*
friction/resistance, or whatever you want to call it.
Stopping at 320 grit seems just about perfect. The sole doesn't get
as warm, and the plane is easier to use.
I have no clue as to the "injuneering" reasons for this. I'm strictly
an "empirical Galoot" -- I believe my own eyes and experience. This
works for me.
Paul Rad
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

Tom,
The answer is yes, you can. Shellac makes a great sealer -- much
better than lacquer. And the two go together very well. In many
cases, some woods would drink up lacquer endlessly for days, but
shellac will seal it right up in one or two coats.
Now, I've never done a segmented turning, and I have only a little
experience at turning and finishing padauk. So consider this
speculation based on limited experience.
The trick is going to be applying the first coat or three of shellac
in *very* thin layers to the padauk only, so it dries lickety-split.
If you apply a thicker layer, the liquid alcohol has a longer time to
dissolve and 'draw up' the red. If this is a solid ring of padauk, I
would probably do this with an artist's paint brush; no big deal. If
the segments are small pieces randomly interspersed throughout the
vessel, it might drive you to inventing new words. ;^>
Once you have that first sealer coat or two applied this way to the
padauk, I would wipe on a full coat of shellac to the entire vessel.
Then again, I would more likely apply five or six coats so that I had
enough build to sand it smooth without cutting back to raw wood. Then
you can begin to build your lacquer coats.
Oh, I would use only dewaxed blonde shellac for this.
As always, experiment first.
HTH,
Paul Rad
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

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Search Result 4
From: Paul T. Radovanic ( snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net)
Subject: Re: Black walnut sapwood
View: Complete Thread (14 articles)
Original Format
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Date: 2001-08-26 18:54:53 PST
First of all, I agree with leaving sapwood as is --*IF* you took that
into consideration when you designed the piece and laid out the wood
for grain alignment, etc. I glued up a tabletop, aligning the sapwood
edges. It made five boards look like three, and the overall color is
excellent.
You're dealing with sharp contrasts, just as if you were to use maple
and walnut together. Sapwood can add beauty, but if it isn't laid out
correctly within that dark heartwood, it can be gaudy and awkward.
There are times when you want to color it. You can use the darker
stains; it's a personal preference. My personal favorite is to use a
honey/amber water-based dye, and apply it only to the sapwood, sort of
blending it in to the heartwood areas. I like my walnut to be
multi-colored. The honey/amber is not a stark contrast, and it
compliments the heartwood.
I use either Clearwater Color Co.'s Honey/Amber gel dye, or Homestead
Finishing's Transtint flavor. Homestead doesn't call it "honey/amber"
-- I think they call it Golden Brown -- ask the owner, Jeff Jewitt at
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com he'll answer right away.
HTH,
Paul Rad
On Sat, 25 Aug 2001 12:37:21 -0600, "Dean Lapinel"

In general, that is not the case. The greater contact area should not
increase the total friction because the total downward ("normal") force
remains unchanged. Since this constant normal force is now distributed
over a larger area, the force per unit area is lower. It can be shown
that the increase in friction from the larger contact area is exactly
offset by the decrease in friction due to the lower normal force per unit
area.
Nonetheless, my own empirical experience does seem to match Paul's. I
thought I had a reasonably good grasp of the sciences, and of physics in
particular, but I readily admit to being baffled by this phenomenon.
Anyone have another explanation? Perhaps it's just psychological???
Jim

You also have the "vacuum" factor. (I'm sure there is a real term for it but
cannot think of it at the moment.) If you take two highly polished pieces of
metal, or sheets of glass, they tend to stick to each other. OTOH, you can
usually slide them apart even if you can lift one away from the other.
Perhaps this is over riding what I think of as friction?

If the two surfaces are sufficiently smooth, then there won't be
any (significant amount of) air between them. Atmospheric
pressure will hold them together.
I've heard that a pair of metal blocks so polished are called
"Johansen (sp?) Blocks".

Cohesion is the term (the tendancy of like molicules to cling
together). But I'm guessing that what you're experiencing there is
not cohesion in the strictest sense of the word- it sounds more like
the water present in the general environment is collecting in small
quanities on your metal or glass, and the water's adhesive property is
what is holding the two pieces together. Friction is the force that
works against you when you slide the two pieces apart- not when you
pull them apart.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

"Friction is independent of area"
Regularly voted "least convincing physical law in lab demonstrations".
We know the theory, but the practice is such that friction varies
considerably depending on surface condition and the overall area
involved.
Friction between plane soles and timber is complicated. It does vary,
I certainly don't understand why.

What about not being able to get air under the polished surface?
Jo blocks stick together rather well, I've always been told this is
due to the very smooth surfaces and absence of air (vacuum) between them.

If you are talking about gauge blocks, the physics is entirely different,
the blocks physically bind together. They are ground to a precision of
several tens of micro-inches -- there is actual molecular binding occuring
(at least as it was explained during sophomore physics lab). I doubt that
his the phenomena being observed with a plane and wood.

Politicians love to pigeonhole us.
I use the terms "liberal" and "conservative" in their true sense, not
in the sense that the current crop of politicians have defined them.
IOW, liberal means to embrace change, conservative means to resist
change. I'm fer changing some things, agin changing others, as I see
fit.
When Winston Churchill said (paraphrased) that we are all liberal at
20 and conservative at 40, he was not using the modern definitions.
IMHO, he was saying that youth is for experimentation, but as we get
older, we tend to want to preserve (conserve) the good things we found
along the way. It's human nature.
As for the politicians' current definitions of the terms, this too
shall pass. A hundred+ years ago, the Democratic Party was made up of
conservative plantation owners, while the other side was referred to
as the "Radical Republicans", who were interested in rapid change.
The pols will continue to use whatever definitions that advance their
agendas. Nowadays, they even debate what your definition of "is" is
-- not to mention "vote" and "count" and "trust". ;^>
Paul Rad
Regards,
Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

With all due respect for Paully (and I have the utmost respect), todays
version seems to be rooted in the definition of equality - whether you see
it as concerning equal oportunity or equal outcome.
Practice your finish on scraps or you will practice on your project
-Paully Rad

It really gets me that everyone in the country can operate an ATM --
even those who can't program their VCR's know how to operate an ATM.
It would be a simple matter to install ATM-like machines for voting --
at far less than $10K a pop, I should think.
Why the hell are we using punch cards? Didn't Ross Perot make his
billions off them? Is he still involved here?
Paul Rad

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