Chevrolet Inferno Orange used on the Corvette and Camaro between 2010 and 2016. This color was replaced on the Corvette by Sebring Orange. Which is a tricolor which is very hard to match if you have to do any touch up or repair down the road. I was going to paint it that color but my body guy persuaded me not to.

The biggest issue is the no 6 lifter which has a habit of collapsing on a stroker. Normally caused by going with too heavy a spring rate. If you stay stock springs and cam and use oil with zddp such as Amsoil Z rod you will be ok. As Eagle said getting the quench and compression right are key. However it is extremely hard to build a stroker that will run fine on 87. All mine have needed at least 91 to perform. Expect to pay at least $2k for a stroker with all the machine work and parts. A poor mans stroker with new crankshaft, bored +060 block, 4.0 rods, new pistons will probably give you 220-230hp in the real world. I have a Mopar stroker in mine right now which is advertised at 215hp but is really more like 230hp. The highest HP stroker I ever did had a ported head, headers, intake, performance cam and I got about 265hp out of it. Expect your fuel consumption to increase significantly.
As a minimum you will need, crankshaft, bearing set, new pistons +030 or +.060 bore, the block will need decking to get the right quench and CR. timing chain, cam bearings, gasket set. Good to get the rods balanced and cleaned up. New pins etc. I am sure there is more. Dino's page is by far the best. Strokers forum is ok but there can be a lot of confusing info on there. Dino's site is http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

I got my emblems. These are very high quality exact replicas. I am very pleased with the accuracy and quality of the product. I would highly recommend them. Great work Carolinjeepman!!
Here they are temporarily mounted to my MJ build. I will be painting them before final install.

This is so tragic, I always thought she was the real deal, great fabricator, tenacious and a really nice person.
https://jalopnik.com/fastest-woman-on-four-wheels-jessi-combs-killed-in-jet-1837654356
RIP young soul.

I used a dremel with the rubber round sander attachment. Worked great. One point to note some 91 dashes like mine. Were not compatible. So I swapped the complete donor cluster.
The early 91 had a different circuit board setup so even changing the white cover didn't help. So I had to find a 1993 US cluster and used that for the swap. See below for some pics of the differences.
91 US
UK

A surprisingly robust aftermarket exists for a vehicle that only had about 90,000 built. Places like Victoria British, Rimmer bros, the roadster factory to name a few. All body panels are available along with engine, trans, electrical etc. You can even buy a new chassis. Not much you can't find for these beautiful machines. Strong engines, decent trans, diffs are tricky to fix, weak rear hubs, bearing can go, difficult fix, body and chassis can rot if not looked after. Built between 69 and 76. 69 parts are the most difficult to source.

You will need a complete HO engine wiring harness, PDC and computer, including bracket, which will have to be matched to the 1989 dash harness, which is a lot of work. It is not plug and play. Been there. Just went through trying to splice an HO engine harness to a non HO dash harness, It is a major project. All the HO sensors, and plugs are different. It can be done but as jdog said a block swap would be easier.

Haven't been able to spend much time on the Comanche. Had to deal with the infamous P0421 code on my LJ. Ended up replacing the CATs. All good now. Anyways, I managed to get the lines done for the brake MC, Front brakes and rear line Installed the refurbed steering column. Next job is to get the gearbox in. Got the JCR steering box bracket which along with the Boostwerks hidden winch mount should keep the gearbox in place. Got a replacement gearbox from RedHead Gears in Auburn, WA. Seems like a quality reman. I have a bunch of stuff at powdercoat. Waiting on the front axle so I can rebuild the front suspension and getting working steering. Need all that in place before I test fit the engine and make sure clearances are all good.
Just for reference these lines have the following connections. All 3/16 tubing.
Rear Master Cylinder (MC) to rear port on Proportioning Valve (PV) - M10 x 1.25 bubble flare to 1/2 20 double flare
Front MC to Front top port on PV - M12 1.00 bubble flare to M10 x 1.25 double flare
Rear PV to Front Drivers Caliper - 3/8 24 double flare
Bottom rear PV to Front Passenger Caliper - 3/8 24 double flare
Bottom front PV to Rear lines - 1/2 20 double flare
1996 Brake assembly fully plumbed
Managed to test fit the heater box. Can confirm that a 1994 heater box fits an 1989 body.
Also picked up some ducting on Amazon to replace the mangled ones out of the jeep. This is actually pond tubing for plumbing a water fountain. It is the right size (1" ID) and made of PVC by sealproof. It should work, seems flexible enough.
Got the JCR Steering Box Bracket. Always good quality from those guys. Like the fact it comes with hardware
Refurbed Steering column in place

Very smart to go with the external Slave. Pete is correct - I misspoke, it is only the TJ AX15 you need to worry about an XJ or MJ trans should fit fine. Just checked they both have the same part no. The good news is that all external slave XJ and TJ Bell housings are the same.

You need a short input shaft 23 spline 231 to mate up to the AX15. This is the only one that will work out the box. Pre 1990 The AW4 uses a 21 spline shaft. It then went to a 23 spline shaft but is still a medium length. I have heard that you can use a medium shaft with an AX15 - maybe somebody can confirm.
You will need to get an MJ specific AX15 or the TC clocking is wrong. You can drill an XJ case if you can't get an MJ one. The MJ AX15 clocks the TC about 10 degrees. Also be careful with pilot bearings.

Novak Engine mounts going in
Novak Exhaust headers are sweet (and expensive) they couldn't hug the block any closer. Off on Monday for black ceramic coating
Also installed the (7+ Brake master and distribution block. Next the plumbing starts.