hi. just bought a 1990 Swift GTi, gen 2? it's one of 3 registered in Norway, so they are very rare here.it's probably not the prettiest GTi alive, but for 500$, I can't complain

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during the summer I hope to get new parts for the suspension, springs, dampers and some brakeparts.I want other wheels. something like white 15" OZ racing rims, with 195 tires. hopefully I'll get a low weight wheel.mabye some bodyparts. a rear end spoiler would be awesome.and for the engine, a new set of cams, sports airfilter, wider TB, headers and full exhaust. the most important is that it's the motor can withstand the increased HP and not get any breakdowns.

It's gonna be my 2nd car, and want to use it for roadracing. I don't need the best and the most expensive parts, but something that will improve the HP and the handling of the car.

if you do have some recomendations, from different parts, dealers, Do and Don'ts, please let me know.

You are a legend for tackling the restore on the rust , I just hope there is enough parent metal to still get a good weld on. Looks like a good straight car otherwise, good luck and keep the updates coming as we all like to see these kept on the road. Lawry

_________________If "X" is an Unknown quantity, and a Spurt is a drip under pressure, then an "EXPERT" is an "Unknown Drip Under Pressure". Why dont they just call it "Womenapause" instead.

Yikes, that shell is pretty much shot, cheaper to buy a late model non rusty GL for a few hundred bucks and swap all the gti stuff over including the serial numbers and no one will know just make sure you get a red donor shell

pfffft thats not a lot of rust...well fro a Suzuki it is but have a look at old ford sites, Turbosport.co.uk for example of how much rustier cars are bought back from the dead. its only a matter of cost, time and passion or skill.

The Euros are much better with choosing to repair over replace/reshell as these and older cars are rare. A reshell here in OZ is easy, but Ive never seen that sort of rust her in Australia so rarely necessary.

Good luck with it an and keep the therad alive to show us how its done.

Good luck with the restoration! Poor car's chassis is in a fairly bad condition...

I recognized that your GTi has the factory headlight washers. Do you happen to know whether those were installed in the factory or later by one of the previous owners?I am just asking because we parted out a Mark2 Sedan which had headlight washers and heated side mirrors and that belonged to a special serie built for the Scandinavian market. Does your car also have the heated mirrors? It would be interesting because in that case we could say that probably there was a special, 'Scandinavian serie' of the GTi's as well.

Good luck with the restoration! Poor car's chassis is in a fairly bad condition...

I recognized that your GTi has the factory headlight washers. Do you happen to know whether those were installed in the factory or later by one of the previous owners?I am just asking because we parted out a Mark2 Sedan which had headlight washers and heated side mirrors and that belonged to a special serie built for the Scandinavian market. Does your car also have the heated mirrors? It would be interesting because in that case we could say that probably there was a special, 'Scandinavian serie' of the GTi's as well.

I think it's factory installed, can't see why anyone would put it on later XDI don't think it got heated side mirrors, just electrical adjustment.

Do you want new parts or second hand? If second hand look at For Sale section on here and teamswift.net.

Throttle body is around 7mm diameter larger than standard. May people add the SR20DE throttle body at 60mm or another cars at around 55mm. 52mm will probably be better on road car as less of an on/off switch with throttle with some improved breathing. If you are still using MAF then this will be a bottleneck and perhaps need to think about bored out MAF (personally I would ditch this and go to ECU with MAP sensor)

Headers are OK. Look at reviews on teamswift for SRD stuff (bit of a mixed story).

For cams I would recommend looking at sprf1y's profiles on teamswift (/3tech). Profiles around the BD10 are popular on road cars while BD14 is definitely more lumpy. He can recommend you something for a good price.

With the above (particularly cams) I would factor into costs an aftermarket ecu (eg. adaptronic as I know they are in Netherlands and Norway) or at least a chip to make the most out of it (contact gtaye on this board).

Cultus or better designed intake manifold will make a good difference and an LSD in the gearbox to help hold it all together

Spend some money on looking after gearbox as this is the biggest flaw. Rebuild with good bearings and regular oil changes will help it live.

Do you want new parts or second hand? If second hand look at For Sale section on here and teamswift.net.

Throttle body is around 7mm diameter larger than standard. May people add the SR20DE throttle body at 60mm or another cars at around 55mm. 52mm will probably be better on road car as less of an on/off switch with throttle with some improved breathing. If you are still using MAF then this will be a bottleneck and perhaps need to think about bored out MAF (personally I would ditch this and go to ECU with MAP sensor)

Headers are OK. Look at reviews on teamswift for SRD stuff (bit of a mixed story).

For cams I would recommend looking at sprf1y's profiles on teamswift (/3tech). Profiles around the BD10 are popular on road cars while BD14 is definitely more lumpy. He can recommend you something for a good price.

With the above (particularly cams) I would factor into costs an aftermarket ecu (eg. adaptronic as I know they are in Netherlands and Norway) or at least a chip to make the most out of it (contact gtaye on this board).

Cultus or better designed intake manifold will make a good difference and an LSD in the gearbox to help hold it all together

Spend some money on looking after gearbox as this is the biggest flaw. Rebuild with good bearings and regular oil changes will help it live.

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