Description

Although there are some bolts on this cliff, it is not a sport climbing area. The rock is good to excellent with great features: roofs, plates, thin edges, and cracks (yes, real cracks). For Mount Lemmon, this cliff seems to have a decent concentration of routes that demand some crack climbing skills. Unhinged is one of the best pure crack climbs on Mt. Lemmon for its grade. This cliff needs some anchor replacements so plan accordingly. This cliff is not listed in Squeezing the Lemmon. It is briefly described in Kerry's book.

Getting There

Park at Lower Molino Basin campground. Walk east up the streambed. Continue past the waterfall using a trail on the left side of the streambed (as you walk up). Stay right where the stream splits and work your way up to the obvious, large series of cliffs. The 300 foot cliffs have massive roofs. The final scramble up the hillside will take another 15 minutes or so.