But names can be misleading. The owner-chef of Buckeye Pho has spent years working in demanding
kitchens such as Spagio. So, not surprisingly, the sparkling-clean Bethel Road operation is one of
the most professionally operated Vietnamese restaurants in town.

The lineup of six Vietnamese rolls is typical of the menu’s depth.For many people, the most
familiar is the shrimp-and-pork version ($3.59 for two). Vermicelli pasta is wrapped inside the
translucent, uncooked rice paper along with bean sprouts, cucumber strips, lettuce and the
all-important oriental basil. The herb sets the tone for the other ingredients, including the
slices of shrimp and pork.

The dipping sauce is complex, with plenty of peanut flavor and shredded vegetables.

Few Asian restaurants open these days without a banh mi, a Vietnamese sub sandwich. Buckeye Pho
has five. The grilled pork banh mi ($5.79) is an easy choice; the excellent house-roasted pork is
sliced and grilled to prepare this and other grilled pork dishes.

The French-style roll is filled with Vietnamese pate, sliced jalapeno, cilantro, carrots,
cucumber and the choice of meat. The sandwich is among the best banh mi in town.

There are eight phos, or beef-noodle soups. The one called “with rare steak only” ($6.99 for a
small, $7.99 for a large) is distinguished by the slices of grilled beef among the rice noodles,
sliced scallions and onions that season the first-rate broth.

Like all of the phos, the imposingly large bowl of soup is accompanied by a large plate of
condiments: fresh basil, large-leaved oriental cilantro, sliced jalapenos, fresh bean sprouts and
lime slices, plus tableside dispensers of hoisin and sriracha sauces.

The secret to these soups is the beef broth that reportedly simmers for 10 hours. The process
infuses the broth with flavors of anise, cinnamon and clove, along with plenty of white and black
pepper.

The best way to savor the broth is by ordering one of the Vietnamese rice dishes; each comes
with a small bowl of broth as a side. The best way to explore the eight rice dishes is by ordering
the dish with grilled pork, shredded pork and an omeletlike “steamed meat cake” ($8.59) made with
minced meats, rice and egg.

Also on the plate is a large quantity of rice topped with the excellent grilled pork, glistening
with a subtle barbecue sauce; a mound of shredded steamed pork; and a cruet of sweet-and-sour
sauce.

The three beef stews ($8.59 with a choice of rice noodle, egg noodle or French bread) are
top-notch. Slices of brisket are braised in a broth along with huge pieces of carrot and daikon
radish, seasoned with seven-spice powder and served with fresh basil, lime slices and
coriander.

The fresh-fruit smoothies ($4.75) are among the best in town. Lightly sweetened and thick, they
come in 10 flavors, ranging from unusual (avocado) to tropical (mango-papaya). All have large
tapioca pearls in the bottom.

For something different, try the sam bo luong ($3.59), a mix of preserved beans and fruits in a
lightly sweet liquid. Equally unusual is the refreshing mix of preserved salted lemon and fresh
lime that make the salty lemonade ($3.59).