Famed chef returns to the Meatpacking District

No doubt Colicchio and Sons will stay afloat, buoyed by the chef and the sleekness of the establishment. And now that it's gone back to à la carte pricing, I have much more hope that it will evolve into the excellent place it should be. Interviewed on the phone for the Voice's food blog, Fork in the Road, the chef told me that he's scarcely had a day off since Colicchio and Sons opened, and acknowledged some cooking inconsistencies, especially in the early days. And in fact, we did see him dressed in his whites and stepping out of the kitchen one night. Colicchio named the restaurant "and Sons" not because his offspring actually work there (they're still little boys), but to signal how personal the project is to him. You have to admire his good-faith desire to be behind the stove—he must not need the money. But some of the dishes are more like what you'd see on Top Chef than at a three-star restaurant.