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The best thing that has ever happened to this formerly maligned vegetable was the mass discovery that it could be roasted, or even served raw. This blew the doors off what many people grew up with; the ugly spectre of the boiled sprout. Boiled sprouts are nasty. They’re somewhat viscous in texture and don’t smell that nice. Roasting takes away those two disruptions of tastiness, infusing the sprout with a nutty sweetness, and just enough of a bitter edge to be intriguing. With the flavour of the sprouts altered by roasting, they couple seamlessly with direct and bold flavours.

Raw and shredded, they seem almost innocent in flavour when compared to roasted sprouts. Where you would use cabbage raw, you can use sprouts raw. Work up to it slowly by using half sprouts and half cabbage in your favourite slaw recipe. When you feel comfortable, test the waters by making a Caesar salad with shredded sprouts. Once you’re feeling hardcore, combine shredded sprouts with finely shredded kale for a double whammy. Believe me, it’s good. I recently served the Brussels Sprouts Salad with Apples, Bacon and Blue Cheese with chorizo sausages, and with duck confit, and the combinations were delicious.

It’s now time to move along to this year’s darling, the virginal cauliflower, before 2015 strikes and everyone clamours for, let’s say, green beans. Stay tuned.

RECIPES

Brussels Sprouts Salad with Apples, Bacon and Blue Cheese

This is delicious with steaks, sausages, or at a picnic or potluck.

6 slices good quality bacon

1 lb (500 g) fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed

2 sweet and tart apples, diced

1/2 cup (125 mL) finely diced red onion

2 tbsp (30 mL) Dijon mustard

3 tbsp (45 mL) apple cider vinegar

1 tsp (5 mL) sea salt

1 tbsp (15 mL) honey

1/2 cup (125 mL) vegetable oil

1/3 cup (80 mL) crumbled blue cheese

1/2 cup (125 mL) coarsely chopped walnut halves

Cook the bacon over medium-low heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels, then crumble when cooled.

Either in a food processor fitted with a 1/4-inch (0.6 cm) slicing disc, a mandolin, or by hand with a very sharp knife, shred the Brussels sprouts.

For the dressing, whisk the mustard, vinegar, salt and honey together until smooth. Slowly beat in the oil. Toss with the sprouts, apple and onion. Cover and refrigerate for up to 4 hours.

When ready to serve, toss with the bacon, blue cheese and walnuts.

Makes 6 servings

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Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts

Chicken and prawns are not the only things that can be Kung Pao-ified. Cauliflower or green beans can get the same treatment with excellent results.

The amount of chilies can be modified to suit your taste, and you’re under no obligation to eat them. Frying chilies until darkened is a classic Szechuan technique that gives a fragrant heat to the dish built upon them.

Chinese black vinegar (Shaoxing vinegar) is a great vinegar to have in your pantry. It has a full deep flavour and works when you would use balsamic vinegar. Check the label and buy a brand that is pure vinegar and not one enhanced with sugar and MSG.

1 1/4 lb (550 g) fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed

4 tbsp (60 mL) vegetable oil, divided

1/4 tsp (1 mL) sea salt

8 whole dried red chilies

2 green onions, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp (15 mL) minced fresh ginger

1 tbsp (15 mL) Chinese black vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce

1 tbsp (15 mL) hoisin sauce

1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil

1/4 tsp (1 mL) sea salt

2 tsp (10 mL) sugar

1 tsp (5 mL) ground Sichuan peppercorns (optional)

1/4 cup (60 mL) unsalted roasted peanuts

Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Toss the sprouts with 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil and salt. Arrange them cut side down on a large, rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place on the lowest shelf of the oven and roast for 10 minutes until the cut side has lightly browned.

While the sprouts are roasting, make the sauce. Combine the vinegar, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sesame oil, salt, sugar, and Sichuan pepper. Stir until the sugar is dissolved.

Heat a wok or large, heavy frying pan over high heat until a bead of water sizzles and evaporates on contact. Add the remaining oil to the pan then the chilies, and stir-fry for about 30 seconds, until the chilies begin to blacken. Add the green onion, garlic, and ginger and fry for another 30 seconds.

Add the sprouts to the pan and toss for 30 seconds. Swirl in the sauce and cook just until the sprouts are glazed with the sauce. Stir in the peanuts and serve immediately.

Makes 2 large, or 4 small servings

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Brussels Sprouts with Dates, Almonds and Smoked Paprika

The first thing people ask when eating this is: “There’s bacon in this?” No bacon. Just a happy illusion created by the smoked paprika and dates.

1 1/4 lbs (550 g) fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 tsp (1 mL) sea salt

1 tsp (5 mL) sweet smoked paprika

1 pinch cayenne pepper

1/3 cup (80 mL) toasted almonds, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped pitted dates

1 tbsp (15 mL) balsamic vinegar

Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Toss the sprouts with 2 tbsp (30 mL) garlic, oil, salt, paprika and cayenne. Arrange them cut side down on a large, rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place on the lowest shelf of the oven and roast for 10 minutes until the cut side has lightly browned.

Remove from the oven and mix in the dates, almonds and balsamic vinegar. Snuggle the sprouts close to one another. Return to the oven for 5 minutes longer. Serve warm, or at room temperature.

Makes 2 large, or 4 small servings

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Brussels Sprouts Leaves with Lemon and Parmesan

This is lovely and light. At room temperature it can be served as a salad.

1 1/4 lb (550 g) Brussels sprouts

4 tbsp (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) sea salt

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice

zested peel of one lemon

1/4 cup (60 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

Trim the sprouts, removing enough of the stem end to allow the leaves to peel off easily. Remove as many leaves as your patience allows from each, trimming off the stem as needed. Keep the inside of the sprout too and toss, along with the leaves, into a large bowl.

Combine the olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, lemon juice and lemon zest and mix with the leaves, coating them thoroughly. Spread out onto a large, rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast for 10 minutes, until darkened and crisp around the edges. When the sprouts are done, remove from the oven and pile on a plate. Let cool slightly then sprinkle with the cheese. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 2 large, or 4 small servings

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