If you're aiming to buy to keep as an investment, recommend not buying watches. Period.

I would fathom a guess that the TS was asking for a piece that would preferably appreciate over time while it was in his collection, whether to wear as a beater or in rotation. As a matter of fact, as a serial flipper with a tendency to buy in bundle deals over time, I would say that some models make great collectible pieces and do appreciate better than FD rates over the last few years.

For Omega, I find that the Moonwatch tend to hold its prices better than its diver counterparts. And amongst the Moonwatch, some of the limited edition ones e.g. Ultraman, CK2998, Snoopy, Apollo, Gemini, Moon2Mars, Alaska, and Mitsukoshi were the ones that tend to appreciate over time as could be easily checked at sites such as C24. Be prepared to go at a premium over RRP for these pieces, but given that these pieces were following the trends as seen on some Rolex sports models, it would still be worth-while.

If it was merely for a daily beater and the TS wanted a low entry-cost, then the basic Moonwatch Pro was the way to go. However, it would not appreciate like the LE above and tend to depreciate even, so do try to get it at as high a discount as possible. I liked wearing new pieces and flipping them thereafter; and with this base model, I know that it was easy to get and could be gotten at a good discount (you need to maintain a good relationship with ADs though), so there was less pressure on babying the piece. Or models like TinTin, which was interesting yet relatively inexpensive pre-owned, would be a good beater watch too.

If you're aiming to buy to keep as an investment, recommend not buying watches. Period.

I would fathom a guess that the TS was asking for a piece that would preferably appreciate over time while it was in his collection, whether to wear as a beater or in rotation. As a matter of fact, as a serial flipper with a tendency to buy in bundle deals over time, I would say that some models make great collectible pieces and do appreciate better than FD rates over the last few years.

For Omega, I find that the Moonwatch tend to hold its prices better than its diver counterparts. And amongst the Moonwatch, some of the limited edition ones e.g. Ultraman, CK2998, Snoopy, Apollo, Gemini, Moon2Mars, Alaska, and Mitsukoshi were the ones that tend to appreciate over time as could be easily checked at sites such as C24. Be prepared to go at a premium over RRP for these pieces, but given that these pieces were following the trends as seen on some Rolex sports models, it would still be worth-while.

If it was merely for a daily beater and the TS wanted a low entry-cost, then the basic Moonwatch Pro was the way to go. However, it would not appreciate like the LE above and tend to depreciate even, so do try to get it at as high a discount as possible. I liked wearing new pieces and flipping them thereafter; and with this base model, I know that it was easy to get and could be gotten at a good discount (you need to maintain a good relationship with ADs though), so there was less pressure on babying the piece. Or models like TinTin, which was interesting yet relatively inexpensive pre-owned, would be a good beater watch too.

I would just caution that there are a lot more flippers in the market. From what I have been reading and also from experience speaking to personally, now even popular and established pre owned dealers are not open to offer you over what you paid for any current Speedmaster Limited Editions, including the Ultraman because the market is getting saturated with Limited Editions.

What you need to know is Omega knows this and is going to continue churning limited editions like nobody’s business. As such only those established flippers in the market with very good AD relationships can get these pieces at discounts worth considering the flip. Keep in mind you will also have to beat the established flippers to these ADs who have the one piece in their stock.

And how do you build a relationship with the AD? Buy a lot, which isn’t what I believe the OP will be looking to do.

Omega would continue to churn out LEs over time. Some would be hits (I mentioned some earlier), while some would be duds. That's the rule of the game. And collectors would collect based on their own resources and ability to get choice pieces.

For instance, I was placed under the WL for the Ultraman as I hadn't expected the pieces to be reserved and sold-out worldwide in 1+ hours time. And being someone whom loved to get my hands on watches and write about them, my only avenue was to get from grey resellers. At a premium, yes but I wasn't too concerned as the local premium was still way lower compared to overseas. Supply and demand, simple economics.

And when other collectors here contacted me as I'm known to be privy to LEs with nice serial nos, I would not hesitate to purchase from them. Why? Because I could easily let go the other piece that I have bought. And I say from experience that when I let go at the premium price I purchased (without factoring the further appreciation from a few weeks' lapse), I have even overseas resellers flying to MY to pick up the pieces. I make no losses and I get to sample 2 Ultraman already. And over time since it's release, I have gone through a few and am getting better and better serial nos. Ditto with the CK2998.

In a perfect world, everyone whom wants a LE could get a piece of his/her preference of serial no, and at RRP. I personally don't care about premium prices- I know some collectors are indignant and would boycott premium prices, bla bla bla and it's their right to do so. For me, I buy a piece, I get to sample it and write about it, and when I want to flip it on to accommodate other pieces, it's easier to do so with choice pieces.

That was why I reasoned that if the TS wanted a Moonwatch as a beater, just go for the base model. But if capital appreciation was in his mind or he wanted something that could be off-loaded easily, then it's better to stick to the choice LEs.

Bro D’Andy. I don’t disagree with anything you said. But I am also pointing out that you are in position that not everyone may have the privilege to be in. And I make no assumption that the OP will be able to make it to where you are until after years of building credible rep, not just in the community but also with the ADs.

So to advise the OP to gamble on LEs without the knowledge and experience an experienced collector and trader like you may have may be ill advised.

Again I say this with a lot of respect to you as a respected member of the Malaysian watch community. It takes a lot of hard work and passion to reach where you have reached

If you're aiming to buy to keep as an investment, recommend not buying watches. Period.

I would fathom a guess that the TS was asking for a piece that would preferably appreciate over time while it was in his collection, whether to wear as a beater or in rotation. As a matter of fact, as a serial flipper with a tendency to buy in bundle deals over time, I would say that some models make great collectible pieces and do appreciate better than FD rates over the last few years.

For Omega, I find that the Moonwatch tend to hold its prices better than its diver counterparts. And amongst the Moonwatch, some of the limited edition ones e.g. Ultraman, CK2998, Snoopy, Apollo, Gemini, Moon2Mars, Alaska, and Mitsukoshi were the ones that tend to appreciate over time as could be easily checked at sites such as C24. Be prepared to go at a premium over RRP for these pieces, but given that these pieces were following the trends as seen on some Rolex sports models, it would still be worth-while.

If it was merely for a daily beater and the TS wanted a low entry-cost, then the basic Moonwatch Pro was the way to go. However, it would not appreciate like the LE above and tend to depreciate even, so do try to get it at as high a discount as possible. I liked wearing new pieces and flipping them thereafter; and with this base model, I know that it was easy to get and could be gotten at a good discount (you need to maintain a good relationship with ADs though), so there was less pressure on babying the piece. Or models like TinTin, which was interesting yet relatively inexpensive pre-owned, would be a good beater watch too.

As a rule, you should buy what you like. Watches are not an investment (although many are using this an excuse to buy/sell/trade watches). They are all perceived value. If you're looking to buy and sell in the short term, you don't really need to ask in here what is the best to buy to keep.

When it comes to Speedmaster, you should not go wrong with the standard Moonwatch (I cannot remember the current reference number; too long!) which is sold on either Hesalite or Sapphire. Between the two, my preference would be the Hesalite, which is "truer" to the original Speedmaster which landed on the moon.

With limited editions, Omega (like Panerai before this), tends to drop an LE several times in a year. Not all will carry the same hype, so again, if you're looking to buy an LE Omega, please at least make sure you like it. Because when you can't sell it, hey at least you can wear it.

Just as a reference, in the not too distant past, Omegas never used to resell at the rate they are going for today. Hype and perceived value, demand out weighing supply, that's all it is. Just because the asking rate outside of Malaysia is x value, does not mean that the same watch can sell for the same price here. In Thailand for example, there are fewer Omega enthusiasts (as far as I know). Then there's Singapore, which had one of the highest Ultraman deliveries in the world.

In that case, go for the basic Moonwatch Pro in my last picture. Personally, I prefer the most basic hesalite crystal version compared to the sapphire crystal. This has the lowest entry cost, comes with a nice presentation box, and well, could be gotten at a rather healthy discount.

I have flipped a couple of these so you could swing by my watch blog to get an indication of the discount to negotiate for during your purchase. Easily-available at most ADs and boutiques, you would find that this would be a good addition to your collection

But be fore-warned that once you go this route, you are going to want to get the LEs and you would find your wallets thinning down and your collection building up. I know, for my wallet is rather thin too after dabbling in this hobby

In that case, go for the basic Moonwatch Pro in my last picture. Personally, I prefer the most basic hesalite crystal version compared to the sapphire crystal. This has the lowest entry cost, comes with a nice presentation box, and well, could be gotten at a rather healthy discount.

I have flipped a couple of these so you could swing by my watch blog to get an indication of the discount to negotiate for during your purchase. Easily-available at most ADs and boutiques, you would find that this would be a good addition to your collection

But be fore-warned that once you go this route, you are going to want to get the LEs and you would find your wallets thinning down and your collection building up. I know, for my wallet is rather thin too after dabbling in this hobby

In that case, go for the basic Moonwatch Pro in my last picture. Personally, I prefer the most basic hesalite crystal version compared to the sapphire crystal. This has the lowest entry cost, comes with a nice presentation box, and well, could be gotten at a rather healthy discount.

I have flipped a couple of these so you could swing by my watch blog to get an indication of the discount to negotiate for during your purchase. Easily-available at most ADs and boutiques, you would find that this would be a good addition to your collection

But be fore-warned that once you go this route, you are going to want to get the LEs and you would find your wallets thinning down and your collection building up. I know, for my wallet is rather thin too after dabbling in this hobby

In that case, go for the basic Moonwatch Pro in my last picture. Personally, I prefer the most basic hesalite crystal version compared to the sapphire crystal. This has the lowest entry cost, comes with a nice presentation box, and well, could be gotten at a rather healthy discount.

I have flipped a couple of these so you could swing by my watch blog to get an indication of the discount to negotiate for during your purchase. Easily-available at most ADs and boutiques, you would find that this would be a good addition to your collection

But be fore-warned that once you go this route, you are going to want to get the LEs and you would find your wallets thinning down and your collection building up. I know, for my wallet is rather thin too after dabbling in this hobby

I would google online to make some research

Is that omega speed master 1861 or 1863?

The 1861 is for the hesalite (plastic) crystal Moonwatch with the reference number ending with 005. It has a steel case back and is the most authentic replica of the original moon watch.The 1863 has a reference number ending with 006 and comes with the sapphire crystal and with the sapphire caseback. It has a slightly higher price and purists usually don’t like this so much. Hope this helps!

In that case, go for the basic Moonwatch Pro in my last picture. Personally, I prefer the most basic hesalite crystal version compared to the sapphire crystal. This has the lowest entry cost, comes with a nice presentation box, and well, could be gotten at a rather healthy discount.

I have flipped a couple of these so you could swing by my watch blog to get an indication of the discount to negotiate for during your purchase. Easily-available at most ADs and boutiques, you would find that this would be a good addition to your collection

But be fore-warned that once you go this route, you are going to want to get the LEs and you would find your wallets thinning down and your collection building up. I know, for my wallet is rather thin too after dabbling in this hobby

I would google online to make some research

Is that omega speed master 1861 or 1863?

The 1861 is for the hesalite (plastic) crystal Moonwatch with the reference number ending with 005. It has a steel case back and is the most authentic replica of the original moon watch.The 1863 has a reference number ending with 006 and comes with the sapphire crystal and with the sapphire caseback. It has a slightly higher price and purists usually don’t like this so much. Hope this helps!

Welcome in advance to the speedmaster club ahhaha !

Although some might consider the hesalite model more true, I'd say go for 1863 to get the sapphire dome crystal and transparent caseback. Looks like the original thing when on the wrist but you get to see the movement and sapphire doesn't scratch as easily.

Remember to give it a go on your wrist. You never truly know which one suits you best, if you don't try it on. In fact, you may only start to realize if you like it (or not) after several days of wear. Between 1861 and 1863, I still stick to 1861 Hesalite as I feel it wears "thinner" on the wrist. Btw, if the standard moonwatch feels too big for you, there's always the FOIS.