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Khajuraho evoked memories of Discovery Channel documentaries on the land of the Kamasutra, famed for it's ancient temples adorned with erotic sculptures.

I found myself on the lone train to Khajuraho from Gwalior, the Udaipur - Khajuraho express, watching the beautiful ravines of the Chambal go by. The plan was to rendezvous with Janish at Mahoba, which is about 60 KM from Khajuraho, spend the night there and proceed next morning. I managed to snag last minute tickets in the 1st class compartment. I was pleasantly surprised to have the entire coupe to myself. 7 episodes of Agents of Shield and countless halts later, I got off at the dusty town of Mahoba. The only reason you might have heard of Mahoba is perhaps for its Paan (Betel) leaves. They dot the road to Khajuraho on either side, and at first appear to be small grape vines covered with tarpaulin. The Mahoba Paan, grown in shade has a characteristic flavor loved by paan lovers all over the world. After a bumpy ride from the ra…