Nikon EM was introduced in 1979. It was the first model in a revised design concept
by Nikon to introduce a series of ultra compact bodies characterized by compactness,
light weight, easy to use, yet still possesses some quality as other Nikon bodies.

Well, although I would not
regarded it as a classic Nikon camera but the EM signifies a era where Nikon did
attempt to try and repeat the success story of their Nikkormat and Nikon FM/FE models,
but more at the success of the simple AE camera like the AE-1 from Canon or the OM-10
from Olympus.

Although that was not a popular
decision considered by many Nikon followers, but the 30 years of goodwill did created
a sensation when the EM was introduced. The EM, however, represents another category
of camera design in the Nikon lineup, with subsequent models, the FG in 1982 and
the FG-20 in 1984, these three bodies were the lightest and the most compact SLRs
that Nikon has ever produced.Due to its smaller physical
dimension, these bodies cannot share many of the accessories that were designed for
the FM/FE/FA and thus has its own dedicated accessories that are compatible among
the three cameras. However, these bodies uses the standard Nikon bayonet F-mount,
other than certain dedicated accessories such as motor drive/winder, databack etc.
that are not compatible, you can actually enjoy and share many other system accessories
in macro, copy/duplicating, remote, flash photography or even using its 80 more Nikkor
lenses and Nikon Series E lenses plus a host of accessories at your disposal. Well,
the latest AF Nikkor lenses can also be used without the autofocus function by setting
the lens in the manual focus mode.

Compared with most of other well built and tank-liked Nikon bodies available during
the late '70 and early '80, the EM may present a very strong feel of plastic. Yes,
it uses a higher than normal level of polycarbonate material (But don't let this
upset you, in fact very few modern cameras now use metal as the prime source of material
to built camera).

But beneath the shell, the main
structure of Nikon EM is a sturdy metal structure. Made of copper silumin aluminum
alloy, this is the very same metal used for the body of the Nikon F3 - Nikon's top-of-the-line
professional camera during the eighties. Unlike other die-cast materials, this alloy
is less susceptible to blowholes during manufacture; therefore, the casting is stronger
and more durable. In fact, the EM's die-cast body has a tensile strength of approx.
33.5kg/mm2 - remarkably high for cameras in this class. Thus, you can be sure that
the Nikon EM is as rugged and reliable a camera as you want it to be.

Taking pictures with the EM
is really easy. In technical term, it uses an aperture priority automatic exposure
control system. In operation, just set a shooting aperture on the lens. Then, focus
and shoot. The EM will automatically select the right shutter speed to match the
user selected aperture value for proper exposure. If the shutter speed goes outside
of the "safe" range of approx. 1/30 to 1/1000 sec., there is even an electronic
"beep-beep" quietly warns you to readjust the aperture before taking the
picture !

A view from the top panel will
illustrate the clear and simple layout in the control. In addition to AUTO which
signifies the AE mode, there are only two manual settings available in the EM. First,
a setting of M90 (mechanical speed of 1/90 sec.) and B ("Bulb" for long
exposures). Both are mechanical speeds, so they can still be used in case the battery
fails -a rare treat by modern standard.

There are a host of other
features provided in the EM. As this is essentially a battery dependent electronic
camera, it has a few features to comfort the users. First is a battery check button
and a red LED allow you to check the condition of the 3V lithium battery which powering
the EM's metering circuits. It's easy to change the battery, because it is housed
in a readily accessible battery clip in the bottom of the camera. (Instead of the
lithium battery, two 1.55V silver-oxide cells can also be used).

To provide a user with a greater
degree of control even if the EM is only providing aperture priority AE, there are
two ways: First is a built-in function where the exposure compensation button (In
front of the camera body, press to activate - confirmation by seeing the viewfinder
match needle will automatically set two stops in shutter speed compensation).

This is for compensating exposure
reading such as underexposure of the main subject when the light is coming from the
rear, this button increases the exposure by two steps (Since aperture value is user
set, in this case, the EM body controls the shutter speeds, e.g., from 1/250 sec.
down to 1/60 sec.).

Other than this, there is
no exposure compensation dial provided. If you want to compensate for exposure, just
press the button and you will activate a 2 stops compensation. If a finer degree
of exposure control is desired, (another alternative which is also a conventional
way) you can adjust the ASA/ISO film speeds to fool the camera metering for a finer
level of adjustment in exposure compensation e.g. IF you intend to compensate 1 stop
instead of the standard non-adjustable 2 stops press button, adjust the film Speed
from ASA 100 to ASA 50 for over- exposure or ASA 100 to ASA 200 for under-exposure.
(You must set the ASA/ISO dial to the ASA/ISO number printed on the film box. Films
from ASA/ISO 25 to 1600 are Usable). A forgettable old method but still works fine
with the EM.

Compared with the Nikkormat,
or the FM/FE (Even you can compared with F or F2 models), all those Nikon bodies
mentioned have not provide with this valid 'modern' feature of metering-on switch.
Just depress the shutter button halfway will activates the camera's exposure meter.
Inside the viewfinder, the meter needle will react to the lighting condition, drops
from its rest position at the top of the scale to indicate the automatically selected
shutter speed.

Even after you have taken
your finger off the button, the meter stays on for approx. 20 seconds to keep you
informed of the meter reading. Although this is nothing to shout about if compared
with a modern entry camera, but those days, this EM's feature even came before it
was available with the professional Nikon F3,
which was only introduced a year later in 1980 after the Nikon EM.

The Nikon EM has a fairly
large, bright viewfinder which provides all information necessary for convenient
picture taking. Focusing is easy with a fixed (Non-interchangeable) focusing screen
with central split-image rangefinder, microprism collar, or surrounding ground-glass
area. On the left side of the screen is the shutter speed scale from 1/1000 sec.
to 1 sec., plus over- and underexposure warning zones. In addition, there is an LED
electronic flash ready-light adjacent to approx. 1/90 sec. The outer diameter of
the ring inside the viewfinder is the priority section where emphasis is given more
in metering than the rest of areas combined, this 'theory' is called the center-weighed
metering used in virtually all modern manual focus Nikon camera bodies.

Under Exposure

Over Exposure

If you hear a beeper sound,
don't panic. It is just a friendly warning device built into the EM to warn a user
of possible camera shake due to prevailing light level demands a slower shutter speed
settings OR a reminder where you can check if the aperture value set can be lower
to raise the shutter speed to 'acceptable' level without the need of a tripod support.
Thus, whenever the shutter speed is not within the range of approx. 1/30 to 1/1000
sec., the EM will emit a high-pitched electronic "beep-beep" sound when
you depress the shutter button halfway to warn of such possibilities. Of cause, provided
you know how to react to such situation, you can still ignore and depress the shutter
release fully to take an exposure.

NOTE: Over If the shutter speed goes above 1/1000
sec. (outside the camera's range), the sound tells you to use a smaller lens aperture.
Otherwise, the picture will come out too light. Under If the speed drops below approx.
1/30 sec., the sound indicates that you should use a /larger aperture to prevent
blurred pictures. Even if the lens is wide open, you can still take pictures by using
electronic flash. For shooting night lights at slow speeds, it's recommended to attach
the camera to a tripod.

Credit: My nephew, EeWynwho has helped to convert
the Owner's Manual of Nikon EM into HTML format. Also to a smart friend of mine who has
just spent US60-00 for a EM body. A contributing site to a long
lost friend
on the Net. Made witha PowerMac