2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V Performance Mods Discussion, pig in slop in Cadillac CTS-V Series Forum - 2004 - 2007; Here some of the work on the fuel lines:
This is the entire supply and return in our cars.
Here ...

Re: pig in slop

Here is the stock fuel filter nicely tucked away along with the brake lines and evap line.

Time to get the Holley fuel filter in there. First, got to fab up the stock filter holder with some gasket material because the filter is just a little smaller diameter.

Fits nice and snug in the stock fuel filter holder.

I'm satisfied.

Here is the size line from the tank to the filter (6 inch scale in pic)

***Edit***
I'm posting these details because there is so little information on the fueling and the cost is very large taking it to a speed shop. Neglecting the fact I have almost every tool in my garage, the cost of this upgrade including new pumps is $1200. I got very little direction performing this part of the mod so I hope it serves others. More pics/details to come...

Re: pig in slop

So far, so good! It looks clean, and I'm glad you were able to use the fuel filter mount. Since I'm probably going to be replacing that battery bracket with the Deka bracket, getting mine in there might be more of a chore. Ron, over at APE, contacted me earlier this week and told me that they wouldn't be able to ship out my order because *somebody* ordered all of their Kit 11s!

By the way, have you done the Racetronix hotwire kit yet? Where did you decide to run the wires, and more importantly, place the relay?

Re: pig in slop

Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic

So far, so good! It looks clean, and I'm glad you were able to use the fuel filter mount. Since I'm probably going to be replacing that battery bracket with the Deka bracket, getting mine in there might be more of a chore. Ron, over at APE, contacted me earlier this week and told me that they wouldn't be able to ship out my order because *somebody* ordered all of their Kit 11s!

By the way, have you done the Racetronix hotwire kit yet? Where did you decide to run the wires, and more importantly, place the relay?

I'm sending one of those kits back to APE - only used 1. I'm running the hotwire under the chassis - it's weather proof and I don't think there will be any issues. I'm fabbing up the wires for the second pump and putting it on a relay but setup for a Hobbs switch (2psi pressure switch) - that will be the trigger and will be done this weekend. Just an FYI for those doubting a relay aka hotwire kit...do it! I'm getting voltage drops in my other car when I installed a 340 fuel pump and causing spikes in the AFR luckily not while on boost. I've had to set the tune to open-loop to keep the ECU off my fuel regulation - so I'm running 11.7 AFR in all columns which is my "race" tune to keep from going lean. Those spikes give 2-3 values higher e.g. if you are 14.7 in closed loop, spikes to 17 AFR. At 11.7 constant, I get spikes to about 13.5-14.5 so no worries but it makes that 2.0 liter Honda thirsty. I digress, anyways...

Here's some more pics/details on the progress:

Exit the fuel rails to the regulator line (6 inch scale).

Notice how there is just enough space on that 90 degree fitting.

Pointing to the return line fitting. This is what ruined my whole weekend. It needs a 90 degree fitting and I purchased a straight. With the 90 degree, guaranteed to keep the return line away from the exhaust manifold.

Pics of the fuel rails. I decided to use a 45 degree fitting on the driver's side - just a preference. Those fuel rails do not terminate flush with each other - you will either be on the outside or inside of the wire harness.

Well, I'm delayed 1.5 weeks because I have to order more parts and I travel out of town next week. I ordered a 90 degree -6AN return fitting and 3 more thermal sleeve wraps for the fuel lines where they are close to the exhaust up through the engine bay. I'm going to wrap those sleeves with DEI cool tape so ordered that too.

I have to flush the lines and will be testing the fuel pumps - filling buckets of gas...fun.

Re: pig in slop

I agree on the hotwire kit--I haven't had time to test my voltage drop with the Walbro 255 and Racetronix kit, but I'll probably test it with the twin DW300s. One other thing I need, since I don't have a spare car, is an extra fuel bucket. As far as I know, the 04-05 and 06-07 buckets are identical...or at least there will be no difference when I'm done with it.

I was going to rock the transmission tunnel upgrades this weekend, but my boss asked me to come in this weekend to help with a project. Tomorrow, I'll probably just clean the car and do a couple of miscellaneous upgrades...sound dampening in the doors, Hertz ESK 165L.5 speakers, and maybe try to get that motor mount bolt unstuck, most likely.

Re: pig in slop

The major issue with my voltage drops in my other car is due to so much power hungry aftermarket stuffs in there - cooling fans, 3 amplifiers etc. Sorting that thing out will easy once I'm done with the "V". I'm fabbing a relay for that and adding some capacitors for subs... Turn on the A/C and crank the stereo, watch the lights dim and then comes my spiking AFR - it's become predictable and my datalogs confirm it. The single 255 Walbro had me stuck at only 480 rwhp, with the 340 fuel pump, it comfortably put me at ~550 rwhp but that was on my s2k pushing 18 psi and built like a like a s*it-brick house - TYVM.

This fuel upgrade has me moving at a snails pace - this is no easy bolt on project. It's fun and a PITA at the same time - give me an import, so much easier!

Regarding your brakes...wow! That does add up to a lot of $$$. I just dropped a few on new brakes.

Check it out. I don't think OEM pads get enough attention - I prefer OEM over Hawk for the street. Here are some Centric premium slotted rotors (from DRT) and OEM pads that are going to be installed when I wrap this thing up.

Re: pig in slop

It's funny...5,000 miles and I'm going to be taking my DRT rotors off. I liked them, but they were heavy as hell. Shame that you already bought the brakes--you could have had mine for very little.

Btw, you may want to pick up a AD244 if you have time to swap out the alternator. The stock CS-130D typically only puts out about 20 amps at idle (105 amps max), which is a LOT less than the AD244 (even a stock 145 amp one) because the AD244 was designed to function with bigger, lower RPM engines (specifically trucks and SUVs).

You can typically find a 250-300 watt AD244 for $175-225 on eBay. As you may notice per the following thread, I originally purchased a remanufactured AD244, which was a piece of crap. I returned it. I just purchased a 300 amp upgraded AD244 with a 14.7 VDC regulator. It should fit, but I'll know for certain in a couple of weeks when it arrives and I have time to install it.

Re: pig in slop

It's funny...5,000 miles and I'm going to be taking my DRT rotors off. I liked them, but they were heavy as hell. Shame that you already bought the brakes--you could have had mine for very little.

Btw, you may want to pick up a AD244 if you have time to swap out the alternator. The stock CS-130D typically only puts out about 20 amps at idle (105 amps max), which is a LOT less than the AD244 (even a stock 145 amp one) because the AD244 was designed to function with bigger, lower RPM engines (specifically trucks and SUVs).

You can typically find a 250-300 watt AD244 for $175-225 on eBay. As you may notice per the following thread, I originally purchased a remanufactured AD244, which was a piece of crap. I returned it. I just purchased a 300 amp upgraded AD244 with a 14.7 VDC regulator. It should fit, but I'll know for certain in a couple of weeks when it arrives and I have time to install it.

Hmm, I never thought about the alternator. I like these references, actually used the ebay hose fitting reference you provided - awesome! I've been taking a hard look at some of the sound barrier stuff. I finally installed the Fatmat RattleTrap in my s2k around the trunk and it cut down the test pipe/exhaust drone by 50%. I plan on something similar for the "V" but will take a different approach and use a layer of sound barrier - the rear seat in the "V" is prone to rattles and drone so I am focused on that area right now.

Re: pig in slop

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, b-quiet Ultimate and Luxury Liner Pro are your friends. Two layers of the former over the sheet metal in the rear seat, followed by one layer of Luxury Liner Pro. Do a double layer strip into the spare tire well and fully line the spare tire well to eliminate resonance from the mufflers. Add one layer of Luxury Liner Pro between the trunk lid liner and the metal framework on the inside. Finally, remove the whole plastic deck and line it with two layers of b-Quiet, one layer of Luxury Liner, and maybe even a 2" thick layer of open cell foam for good measure.

Don't worry so much about treating the trunk until you fully handle the boundary layer between the trunk and the cabin. Otherwise you'll fall into the same pitfall as everyone else and end up adding 400 lbs of material to your car when 40 lbs would do.

Re: pig in slop

Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic

I agree on the hotwire kit--I haven't had time to test my voltage drop with the Walbro 255 and Racetronix kit, but I'll probably test it with the twin DW300s. One other thing I need, since I don't have a spare car, is an extra fuel bucket. As far as I know, the 04-05 and 06-07 buckets are identical...or at least there will be no difference when I'm done with it.

I was going to rock the transmission tunnel upgrades this weekend, but my boss asked me to come in this weekend to help with a project. Tomorrow, I'll probably just clean the car and do a couple of miscellaneous upgrades...sound dampening in the doors, Hertz ESK 165L.5 speakers, and maybe try to get that motor mount bolt unstuck, most likely.

Re: pig in slop

Because I think they have a slow leak (there's a known problem with the passenger side rear fitting), and because I'm replacing all four calipers. It's easier to just buy a new kit than find new crush washers and still have to fight 75% pedal.

Re: pig in slop

Originally Posted by FuzzyLogic

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, b-quiet Ultimate and Luxury Liner Pro are your friends. Two layers of the former over the sheet metal in the rear seat, followed by one layer of Luxury Liner Pro. Do a double layer strip into the spare tire well and fully line the spare tire well to eliminate resonance from the mufflers. Add one layer of Luxury Liner Pro between the trunk lid liner and the metal framework on the inside. Finally, remove the whole plastic deck and line it with two layers of b-Quiet, one layer of Luxury Liner, and maybe even a 2" thick layer of open cell foam for good measure.

Don't worry so much about treating the trunk until you fully handle the boundary layer between the trunk and the cabin. Otherwise you'll fall into the same pitfall as everyone else and end up adding 400 lbs of material to your car when 40 lbs would do.

Re: pig in slop

I had a small leak at both bulkhead fittings. I had to remove the fuel module and tighten those down really good. I forgot I had them in there semi-tight when I was assembling the fuel module.

Other than that, both pumps work really well. I only tested them at 10amps and 11.5VDC. With both pumps on, definitely had a lot more flow than single pump operation.

1. single primary pump operation - good flow and jet pump working
2. single secondary pump oper. - good flow, about as much as the primary pump
3. dual pump operation - greatly increased flow, jet pump was working

Of course the system was not pressurized but I wanted to test for operation. I disassembled the module to check if the pumps rotated due to the torque - they were firmly seated in the bucket, no issues. I tested the OEM, Walbro 255 and the DW300...Walbro was VERY noisy, the rest were about the same. The DW300s are very quiet.

Re: pig in slop

That's good news, and I'm glad to hear about the noise levels on the DW300 pumps. I can definitely hear the Walbro GSS342 with the back seat out (less so with it in), so anything quieter should be nice.

Out of curiosity...now that you have a regulator that you can set, do you know why some fuel systems feature a higher pressure than others, and if there's an advantage to X PSI over another setting? I figure that a higher pressure system would allow you to get more out of your existing injectors, but the downside would be a greater percentage pressure drop associated with engine load transients. Conversely, a lower pressure would be more forgiving, but you'd have to hang the injectors open a lot longer at WOT to fuel the engine.

Re: pig in slop

That Walbro sounded like a pool pump.

My experience tells me that you raise base pressure if you run out of injector. The problem with raising the pressure too high makes the injector harder to open and close and could go static - that would be your lean condition. Safe is to leave base fuel pressure stock and use the boost assist on the FPR.

For high horsepower, you have to raise base pressure because you'll run out of injector. As far I know, that is the only time you do that but again, those builds usually have boost assisted FPR. I don't know of any other advantages/disadvantages.

This is a great question and I'm going to ask a very experienced tuner about this. ***Edit*** Just got through that big 3 thread, found out how much I don't know about terminal lugs. Looks like one more thing to address after i finish the fuel lines on the V. Some of those things in that thread are exactly what I have and still experiencing in my other car and going lean - voltage drops resulting in lean AFR. I can say that raising or lowering fuel pressure has had no effect with my spiking AFR because of my voltage issues on that platform.