Boat Building Techniqueshttps://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
enFlipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/recreational-kayak-sea-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/flipping-forms-microbootlegger-sport
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Read along in my Book</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Music:</p>
<p>Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (<a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</a>) Artist: <a href="http://audionautix.com/">http://audionautix.com/</a></p>
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<div class="panel-body">[Music]<br />
good morning welcome back to the shop<br />
I'm Nick Schade and I'm building the micro<br />
bootlegger sports strip built kayak so<br />
far I've got the hull all stripped up<br />
and what's gonna happen today is I'm<br />
gonna flip the forms over and start<br />
working on the deck the first step of<br />
that is obviously just flipping it over<br />
and then I want to break the strip's<br />
free of the forms right now they're hot<br />
melt glue to the forms to avoid staples<br />
in order to make it easier to get the<br />
haul off later I want to break that glue<br />
joint and make it so the hollows free of<br />
the forms so we'll flip the boat over<br />
break it free and then start stripping<br />
up the deck so the hulls potentially<br />
gonna receive a little bit of rough<br />
handling while I try and flip it over so<br />
just is a little bit of reinforcement<br />
I'm gonna run some filament tape which<br />
is a fiberglass reinforced packing tape<br />
just across the strips just isn't sort<br />
of reinforcement I'll do it wherever<br />
there's a form over here I set up some V<br />
blocks on my saw horses this is a<br />
place to accept the boat as I flip it<br />
over I'll end up putting it back on my<br />
external strong back system here before<br />
I'm done but just for now but I can lift<br />
it up put it someplace I have these B<br />
blocks<br />
I have here some inverse forms or<br />
cradles to correspond to a couple of the<br />
forms on the strong back so this is<br />
would be form 28 or 28 inches from the<br />
finished bow so we've got form 98 and<br />
form 158 and so I'm just going to end up<br />
screwing these down to the strong back<br />
in their respective locations so I have<br />
cradles to hold the boat securely to the<br />
my working surface here couple cleats to<br />
just a little bit of weather stripping<br />
here which I'm going to use to cushion<br />
top edge of these forms<br />
it looks like it'll do just fine so now<br />
I want to break the strips off the forms<br />
I don't want to mess up the forms<br />
particularly but I just want to make<br />
sure that the glue holding the strip's<br />
to these forms is broken so when it<br />
comes time to get the deck off I only<br />
need to worry about breaking the deck<br />
free I will already have the hull free<br />
so the first thing I want to do is just<br />
make it to the forms of freedom moves so<br />
the wedges are out the forms are free to<br />
move now and then I'll just take lightly<br />
tap the forms break them free<br />
when I tap here I'm tapping towards the<br />
wider bit so I'm not trying to force the<br />
forms into a smaller part of the strips<br />
which could split the tips apart once<br />
the forms are broken free I can return<br />
them to their original position by<br />
inserting the wedges back in<br />
I'm also going to cut the inner stem<br />
here so I don't end up attaching the<br />
Deccan Hall together of this piece<br />
with the stems cut I can just double<br />
check make sure the forms are indeed<br />
free this end double check the other end<br />
since the stern recurves forward this<br />
part of the form is trapped in there in<br />
order to get it out it needs to slide<br />
forward and so I can't just lift up here<br />
to break it free I need to lift up at<br />
the other end<br />
now after popping all that glue off I'm<br />
gonna put a little bit of glue back in<br />
but this time I'm just gonna be gluing<br />
the top edge just to make sure these<br />
strips tape stay tight up against the<br />
forms these will be easy enough to break<br />
out when it comes time so the forms all<br />
flipped over and ready to accept strips<br />
from the deck those strips were all<br />
bundled up and prepared before we even<br />
started on the haul and so now it's just<br />
a matter of unbundling those and taking<br />
one strip off of stack at a time and<br />
adding it onto the forms see how far we<br />
get here we have the material we set<br />
aside for the deck got it marked<br />
starboard port this is the part line<br />
nine and nine with a circle on it and so<br />
we just need to undo this wrapping so we<br />
can get access to the strips<br />
bringing this for a strip over here will<br />
do the sanity check all right<br />
part line part line starboard starboard<br />
six seven eight nine so it looks like<br />
everything's in the sequence it's<br />
supposed to be and grain looks like it's<br />
right orientation everything looks good<br />
so quick dry fit here shows I need to do<br />
a little bit of Robo bevel on here to<br />
square up that top edge of the existing<br />
strip<br />
so I'm ready to put this first strip on<br />
the deck the only thing that's different<br />
here is I won't actually glue the bottom<br />
edge of this strip to the top edge of<br />
this strip that way when it comes time<br />
to take the deck off it's not glued<br />
together I will glue this strip to the<br />
forms and some of these strips popped<br />
off on the hull i'll riku them back on<br />
and I will put a little spot of yellow<br />
glue between the strip and the inner<br />
stem so this does get clued to the inner<br />
stem but it does not get glued to the<br />
strip below it and again I'm lining up<br />
my marks here to keep the grain all<br />
aligned and we'll just continue with<br />
that all the way up to the centerline<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
like a lot of kayak designs micro<br />
bootlegger sport doesn't have a defined<br />
shear line I've created a part line<br />
which is right here between these two<br />
strips so I haven't glued between these<br />
two strips and in the middle of the boat<br />
that's the widest part of the forms it<br />
doesn't really have anything going on<br />
there it's just a smooth continuous<br />
curve past that area I'd like to make it<br />
so essentially that part line disappears<br />
so in the finished boat you just don't<br />
see where the hull finishes off and the<br />
deck starts you know I've got a water<br />
line here and I want to point that out<br />
but I don't really need to point out<br />
where the shear line is on the<br />
traditional kayak the shear line is a<br />
fairly distinct angle between the deck<br />
and the hall and there's an obvious<br />
transition from the deck to the hall<br />
with this it's not so obvious and I want<br />
to hide it so as part of that I<br />
continued these strips rate paths<br />
they're the same color strips starting<br />
at the water water line moving up but<br />
the other thing is since there is not<br />
that to find angle there it's not very<br />
rigid so it's it's pretty easy for these<br />
strips to move one against the other and<br />
so one is high then the other is high<br />
and if I'm sanding making this a smooth<br />
transition between this strip and this<br />
strip can be a little tricky because<br />
there's not much supporting it here at<br />
the forum there's something supporting<br />
it here at the other form of something<br />
supporting it but here the this strips<br />
can flex quite a bit so what I'd like to<br />
do is put a little bit of a backer<br />
behind that to help keep those strips<br />
aligned and what it's going to be is<br />
basically a couple little tabs of wood<br />
one glued to the top overhanging into<br />
the bottom another on the bottom<br />
overhanging onto the top I'm going to<br />
glue<br />
on the inside so when you push on it<br />
there's something bridging those two<br />
pieces but I don't want to have the two<br />
pieces bonded together that's why we'll<br />
glue one to one side and the other to<br />
the other side but by having those two<br />
teeth hooked together it'll just give a<br />
little bit of support so just get this<br />
little short piece of strip here and the<br />
part line is the third between the third<br />
and fourth strip down one two three four<br />
so right there and I'm going to end up<br />
gluing this across like that and then<br />
another piece right next to it so one<br />
will be glued to the strip above the<br />
part line yeah they will be glued to the<br />
strip below the part line<br />
and it'll go along the whole scene<br />
between every form doing just that<br />
so that'll just give it a little bit of<br />
support when it comes time to sand the<br />
outside along the part line<br />
I'm gonna call that it for today I got<br />
three strips up the side I get the<br />
little teeth in there to hold this that<br />
seam in alignment I flipped this morning<br />
I flipped it over and got the forms<br />
knocked free and so made good progress<br />
today I think it's it's looking sharp<br />
that dark wood that I've that I've used<br />
for the side is the pattern starting to<br />
come together I'm starting to see the<br />
next mirror here and I think it's really<br />
gonna look cool tomorrow will be just<br />
more stripping watching a man stripped<br />
and we'll see how far we get with that<br />
the goal will be to get up to the center<br />
line start stripping past the center<br />
line on one side and then eventually<br />
we'll end up marking that center line<br />
trimming to the center line filling in<br />
from the other side and we will also<br />
mark this back deck shine feature line<br />
and put a accent strip along there we'll<br />
also put an accent strip on the center<br />
line and we'll fill in this back deck<br />
with that other wood I got which I think<br />
will look really sharp so coming along<br />
if you have any questions please post<br />
them in the comments you know if you<br />
watched all the way through this give me<br />
a like if you're watching all these<br />
episodes hit subscribe I've got a couple<br />
books out about strip building boats and<br />
despite the amount of information I'm<br />
trying to put into this video I think<br />
having a reference from those books to<br />
see what steps and what a little bit<br />
more why I'm doing things might come in<br />
handy for some of you if you're<br />
interested in the book there should be a<br />
link down in the description until the<br />
next episode thanks for watching and<br />
happy paddling<br />
</div>
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Sun, 12 Apr 2020 18:06:39 +0000nick4184 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comFinal Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/final-sanding-staining-petrel-kayak-build-e8
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Final sanding of the strips and applying a stain to the wood prior to fiberglassing.</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Makita Hand-Held Belt Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk">https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Finish Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY">https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Agressive Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf">https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf</a></li>
<li>Festool Contour Pad: <a href="https://amzn.to/2GYw43a">https://amzn.to/2GYw43a</a></li>
<li>Mirka Bendable Long Board: <a href="https://amzn.to/378MYGR">https://amzn.to/378MYGR</a></li>
<li>Mirka Abranet Sanding Mesh: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA">https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Other Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Solvent Bottle: <a href="https://amzn.to/2woRmp5">https://amzn.to/2woRmp5</a></li>
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<div class="panel-body">so I built the boat in this series in the<br />
winter of 2019 as I record this intro<br />
right now it is the middle of March of<br />
2020 and we're in the midst of the<br />
corona virus<br />
my wife just put her hand on my forehead<br />
to see if I had a fever I hope<br />
everybody's safe in good health washing<br />
their hands maybe doing a little social<br />
distancing hanging out in their shop and<br />
boatbuilding I thought you guys might<br />
appreciate a break from all the bad news<br />
on the television in the newspaper and<br />
watch a little bit about building for<br />
now and so in this episode I'm going to<br />
be working on finishing up the sanding<br />
and getting some stain on the boat so<br />
we'll be doing a little bit of masking<br />
to have different colored stains and to<br />
keep the accents showing up nice and<br />
bright and I'll start off with filling<br />
some of the gaps that inevitably show up<br />
in any bill they do so let's get right<br />
to it<br />
I have a few small cracks where I didn't<br />
have good tight joints between the<br />
strips so I'm going to fill some of<br />
those up with a little bit of sawdust<br />
mixture so I've got my cyclone here<br />
which collects the dust as I sand and I<br />
dumped it out before I got started it's<br />
some clean stuff so that cedar sawdust I<br />
found that even though this is the wood<br />
that came off the boat it ends up being<br />
darker when you mix it up like this just<br />
because of the fine powder just absorbs<br />
material resin and so forth more so I'm<br />
going to add a little bit of cab Asil<br />
I'm gonna add some water to it<br />
[Music]<br />
glue to ask act as a size and sort of<br />
fine binds it all together there I have<br />
a putty which I can spread into the<br />
cracks seal them up<br />
part of what sealing up the cracks does<br />
isn't just visual it's to keep the epoxy<br />
from just running straight through<br />
leaving sort of a bubble there so this<br />
will help fill those up so here I have a<br />
little crack I'd like to fill up it's<br />
pretty thin I could just epoxy right<br />
over this and you know frankly you've<br />
probably never even noticed it but here<br />
I might as well see if I can fill that<br />
up a little bit I'm going to take and<br />
put masking tape on either side of it<br />
that way I don't end up getting a halo<br />
of glue sealing up the grain in the wood<br />
around the issue<br />
and I'm just putting the material right<br />
where I need it and take the putty knife<br />
take some of the putty off let it dry<br />
I'll be coming back and sanding this and<br />
it'll knock the top off of that<br />
I'll give the whole boat of the final<br />
overall sanding with 120 on the<br />
longboard it gets rid of scratches from<br />
the last 120 sanding deals with some of<br />
these places where I put a little putty<br />
in the cracks and also last thing I did<br />
before that was when everything down<br />
raised the grain so this will flatten<br />
that raised<br />
[Music]<br />
so I've done the major overall sanding<br />
now I want to hit some details always<br />
difficult get the very edge here at the<br />
shear line stand it all the way out<br />
because it's flexible there so you push<br />
on it it just flexes away and tends to<br />
get shortchanged in the amount of<br />
sanding it gets so I'm going to sit down<br />
and there's a small city block and take<br />
care of that some places on the deck<br />
where around the recess it needs a<br />
little bit of detail and I'm just gonna<br />
affect it as I go see if I see anything<br />
and I can deal with it as I go<br />
[Music]<br />
so now I've got the Deccan Hall all<br />
sanded out ready for the next step which<br />
in this case is going to be staining I<br />
could go directly to fiberglassing now<br />
if I weren't gonna stain<br />
so each pass I did took like half an<br />
hour to do the whole boat so the first<br />
60 grit over the whole thing about half<br />
an hour then I did sixty grit on the<br />
longboard another half hour and then 80<br />
grit with the random orbital and then 80<br />
grit with the longboard and then 120<br />
grit with the random orbital and 120 was<br />
the longboard then a little bit of<br />
detail sanding so there were three hours<br />
of sanding to get it to this point which<br />
is quite a bit of time spent sanding but<br />
it goes pretty quickly the thing to<br />
remember to make sanding as easy as<br />
possible is be intentional in what<br />
you're doing so know what you're<br />
intending to do so the first pass is to<br />
level things out and fair it out so we<br />
want that to go as quickly as possible<br />
it's about removing material so we want<br />
to move material as quickly as possible<br />
so for that purpose we go with really<br />
coarse grit and a really powerful sander<br />
and so we're just removing material<br />
we're trying to make it level so we're<br />
not trying to erase mistakes we're<br />
trying to lower high spots so you don't<br />
go around say oh there's a spot that<br />
looks like it needs work and try and dig<br />
into that spot that's going to make a<br />
low spot if you see a place where there<br />
seems to be an issue where it's uneven<br />
feel for the high spots and knock down<br />
the high spots again we're being<br />
intentional in what we're doing also to<br />
save time be systematic in what you're<br />
doing so don't just sort of pop here and<br />
there oh I see something over there you<br />
see something over here work from one<br />
end of the boat to the other then back<br />
up the other way work on it<br />
systematically so you're not<br />
going over the same spot lots of times<br />
this was pretty easy to fare out the<br />
strips were laying down fair they were<br />
fitting tight they were even the Cova<br />
bead helped make the strips nice and<br />
even I save time my sanding by making<br />
sure I had the strip's fair and smooth I<br />
put them in place every step of the way<br />
we're trying to make things fair and<br />
smooth and that way when it comes time<br />
to do a real hard work of tearing it out<br />
you don't need to do a lot of work so<br />
once we get it all fair and smooth and<br />
leveled we are done trying to get rid of<br />
problems we there might be a few here<br />
and there that we missed but if you feel<br />
when you get to the next grit that oh<br />
here's an issue I've got to work on this<br />
you were better off doing that with the<br />
coarse grain and when it goes faster<br />
trying to fix problems with the finer<br />
grain just as slow we want to use the<br />
most aggressive fastest tool we can to<br />
get the job done and so it's done<br />
quickly I know people are scared to use<br />
coarse grain sandpaper but it takes a<br />
lot of work to sand all the way through<br />
the boat and you're most likely to do<br />
that if you're trying to spot fix things<br />
the whole intention of the 80 grit<br />
sandpaper is only to get rid of the<br />
scratches from the 60 grit sandpaper and<br />
then once we're done with the AIDA we go<br />
to 120 and the reason for using 120 is<br />
to get rid of the scratches from the 80<br />
grit sandpaper if you're finding swirls<br />
leftover from the 60 grit you probably<br />
didn't do enough with the 80 grit so as<br />
you go with the 80 grit inspect the<br />
surface look for scratches in it that<br />
are the swirls from the 60 grit you'll<br />
be able to tell the difference sand them<br />
away so do your process systematically<br />
as you go trying to get rid of the<br />
scratches the whole way it doesn't take<br />
a lot you just need to be intentional in<br />
what you're doing knowing what you're<br />
trying to accomplish and concentrating<br />
on a comp<br />
sing that task and then move on to the<br />
next task so there is a lot of sanding<br />
strip build boats it's a given and the<br />
goal is to make the sanding is easy and<br />
quick as possible and when you're doing<br />
it right it's a really satisfying<br />
project you're seeing changes you see<br />
how you're improving the boat with every<br />
step of the process if you're not seeing<br />
it make any difference think about what<br />
you're doing are you doing something<br />
that's worthwhile if it doesn't look<br />
like it's making a difference do<br />
something else if you see something that<br />
needs to be fixed and what you're doing<br />
isn't fixing it think about what you<br />
need to do to fix it so be intentional<br />
in everything you do and it'll go<br />
quickly and it'll be fun and you'll have<br />
a beautiful boat I put some accent<br />
strips some contrasting Alaskan yellow<br />
cedar in lung feature line if I have<br />
this trying basically accent strip I<br />
like to put in highlight hide that<br />
accent strip I want to do that put a lot<br />
of effort into putting that strip in<br />
there<br />
what I've often done is just going to<br />
hit gone ahead and stained everything<br />
then come back it ends up popping again<br />
so you can see the nice accent what I<br />
did today this time we want to go ahead<br />
and get stained today if we put epoxy on<br />
here I need to wait 12 hours for that to<br />
dry have that accent showing pretty<br />
crisply so I'm gonna put masking tape on<br />
either side of the accent blue tape here<br />
instead of the green tape I often use<br />
because the blue tape does not stick as<br />
well I want it to stick but I don't want<br />
it to like peel grain I don't want to<br />
create a rough spot by putting a really<br />
aggressive sticking tape on here and<br />
peeling up grain as I peel it off and<br />
then having a place where the stain<br />
reacts differently due to the texture of<br />
the wood science experiment then I'm<br />
going to try and put a bead of CA glue<br />
right down on top of that looks like it<br />
may worked alright<br />
I got a chance to set up take a look at<br />
it the few places where strings of glue<br />
pulled off as I peel the tape I might be<br />
able to sand those out that looks like<br />
there's a nice bead right on top of that<br />
accent there's a little bit of bleed off<br />
into the cedar but there's going to be<br />
good contrast there anyways I think<br />
that'll work out fine<br />
I have an accent strip on the hall also<br />
again this accent highlights repeat the<br />
line drying back here and I had the same<br />
problem we're gonna be staining on both<br />
sides and so I don't want stain on the<br />
accent stripe but I have a slightly<br />
different solution for this one my<br />
intention is to have a two-tone here so<br />
the bottom of the boat will be stained<br />
as well the side of the boat but I'm<br />
going to use a lighter stain on the<br />
bottom than I am gonna do on the side so<br />
to accomplish that I'm going to mask off<br />
with masking tape at the accent stripe I<br />
know if I'm sort of a messy workers so<br />
I'm gonna take some of this masking film<br />
and put that along and I'll put that<br />
below the accent stripe and I'll use<br />
regular masking tape to get just above<br />
the accent stripe the the goal is to<br />
have the masking tape and the edge of<br />
the masking tape above the line wrapping<br />
down below so it's covering the line I'm<br />
gonna leave a little bit of the natural<br />
wood showing above the accent stripe and<br />
the accent stripes going to have a<br />
little bit of act of natural wood color<br />
on either side just a skosh I<br />
specifically chose a high contrast wood<br />
on either side of the accent stripe here<br />
so if I don't get color all the way to<br />
the accent strike it'll still look right<br />
because there'll be a nice sharp<br />
contrast there again the goal is to come<br />
by with the masking film so I don't<br />
spill any stain down the side of the<br />
boat and I'm going to do the bottom<br />
first which is the lighter colors so if<br />
I do end up getting stained on the side<br />
of the boat it'll be a lighter color and<br />
any in the darker stain should hide it<br />
but again I'm going to try and mask it<br />
off and protect it with this masking<br />
I'm gonna use this light red mahogany<br />
stain on the bottom and I'll use a<br />
darker blood-red on the sides on the top<br />
we've got a clean rag I'm gonna put the<br />
stain on the rag fairly heavy and wet<br />
wipe down the whole boat and then come<br />
back with denatured alcohol and wipe<br />
down the boat again this is an<br />
alcohol-based stain so it dries really<br />
quickly as such a tends to blotch so by<br />
coming back with a wet alcohol rag I can<br />
even out the color<br />
[Music]<br />
I'll let that dry and then to the side<br />
now with the bottom stain dry I'll mask<br />
off the accent strip on the other side<br />
and then to the side of the boat<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
I'm using a blood red for the side and<br />
the deck so it should be some contrast<br />
between the side and the bottom but you<br />
know still reddish<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
well it's good I will let that dry and<br />
[Music]<br />
we'll get some fiberglass on the boat so<br />
you may know that I make my living<br />
primarily through the sale of plans to<br />
build your own small boats such as this<br />
kayak and other boats I have so if your<br />
boss told you to stay home and do some<br />
social distancing and quarantine in<br />
place and you've been looking to build a<br />
boat<br />
now maybe is your chance unfortunately<br />
it looks like we may have a lot of time<br />
when we've got to stay away from people<br />
and maybe it's a good time to just be in<br />
your shop and hang out and work on an<br />
interesting project so if that projects<br />
building boat I have plans available<br />
come by my website check it out see what<br />
I've what I've got otherwise whatever<br />
you have just a nice time to be in the<br />
shop and keep away from people but<br />
seriously and more importantly it's the<br />
time to stay safe and keep your same<br />
family safe and do what you need to do<br />
wash your hands buy more toilet paper or<br />
whatever you need to do so until the<br />
next episode stay safe thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling<br />
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Sun, 12 Apr 2020 17:49:16 +0000nick4183 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comFitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/fitting-cockpit-recess-petrel-kayak-build-e7
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sun, 03/29/2020 - 12:15</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Installing the cockpit recess and getting going on sanding and fairing.</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Palm Planes: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/67716-veritas-detail-palm-planes">https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/67716-veri…</a></li>
<li>T-50 Stapler: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0">https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0</a></li>
<li>Bostitch Heavy Duty Staple Remover: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L">https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L</a></li>
<li>9/16" T-50 Staples: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw">https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw</a></li>
<li>Makita Hand-Held Belt Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk">https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Finish Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY">https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Agressive Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf">https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf</a></li>
<li>Festool Contour Pad: <a href="https://amzn.to/2GYw43a">https://amzn.to/2GYw43a</a></li>
<li>Mirka Bendable Long Board: <a href="https://amzn.to/378MYGR">https://amzn.to/378MYGR</a></li>
<li>Mirka Abranet Sanding Mesh: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA">https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Other Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Green high-stick Tape: <a href="https://amzn.to/317aLFV">https://amzn.to/317aLFV</a></li>
<li>Titebond Glue: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP">https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP</a> 4-oz</li>
<li>Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B">https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body"><br />
hey welcome to heal my kayaks workshop<br />
I'm Nick Schade and we were working on<br />
the petrel sea kayak and last episode we<br />
finished up the stripping and in this<br />
episode we will install the cockpit<br />
recess and start sanding before I get<br />
into that like to talk a little bit<br />
about the Cove and bead strips as you<br />
remember I'm using 3/16 thick strips and<br />
I'm using the three sixteenths diameter<br />
covin bead bit<br />
the typical cove and bead width 3/16 strips<br />
is still using the quarter inch that<br />
you'd use a quarter inch thick strips<br />
but I found a set of router bits that<br />
will make 3/16 Cove and bead and I<br />
decided to experiment with that and see<br />
how it worked worked well they'll work<br />
better than the quarter-inch cove and bead<br />
set I got good tight joints things<br />
seemed to nestle in there they seemed to<br />
stay in place quite well I would say<br />
however I can get better tighter joint<br />
still by hand beveling for example using<br />
my Robo-bevel on square edged strips I<br />
think I can still get tighter joints by<br />
hand beveling so with that said let's<br />
get straight to this episode with the<br />
spacers out these forms are free to move<br />
so I can push them out of the way as I<br />
need to so at this point I'm going to<br />
drop the recess back in place and I've<br />
made some marks where the centre line is<br />
on each end here I'm going to line that<br />
up with the centre line on the boat<br />
[Music]<br />
now I'm gonna trace this on to the deck<br />
the pattern I used to cut out this hole<br />
just as a rough size it ends up cutting<br />
a little bit small<br />
which is ideal be bad if it was oversize<br />
it's hard to add wood back on but here<br />
we can get it fitted in closer to where<br />
it needs to be gives you a good idea<br />
where it needs to be and then now we can<br />
make a new mark here<br />
they use a saber saw again to get in<br />
closer to that line I use a bunch of<br />
little planes to clean up the edge these<br />
need to get fared out and beveled so<br />
they fit up against the the recess piece<br />
so we'll just take and playing this down<br />
just look for the high spots and knock<br />
them down<br />
[Music]<br />
I have a little gap here between where<br />
strip coming in from the stern and strip<br />
coming in to the bow didn't quite meet<br />
and ended up being a little bit on the<br />
deck I think by the time I get this all<br />
playing down all that's going to remain<br />
of this little gap filler is slightest a<br />
little bit so that's going to be<br />
invisible but I just want to have<br />
something in there for now while I'm<br />
filling that in getting it plain smooth<br />
up at the front end of this reef set<br />
piece this piece is a little bit wider<br />
than the feature line here so I'm gonna<br />
eventually want to trim this down blend<br />
that in but for now I'm just gonna work<br />
and hitting these fits tighter but<br />
you'll see me shave that back a little<br />
bit so this point ends up great even<br />
with that your feature line so again<br />
this is going to have to be trimmed off<br />
on both sides make it symmetrical<br />
[Music]<br />
the cockpit recess all installed I'm<br />
ready to pull the staples and start<br />
sanding I might do a little scraping<br />
we'll see what needs to be done I'll<br />
just get to it I'm using staples people<br />
often think it's going to take a real<br />
long time to remove them all you know<br />
this year I started about ten of two and<br />
I finished up but about two o'clock<br />
[Music]<br />
so I've done one quick pass over the<br />
whole deck with 60 grid in the random<br />
orbital sander I haven't tried to fix<br />
anything I've just tried to go over the<br />
whole thing start to level it out and<br />
it's a fairly consistent manner so I'm<br />
trying to just hit everything about the<br />
same amount at this point there's some<br />
places that the Sanders missed for<br />
various reasons usually there's some<br />
little low strips if i zoom in here you<br />
see some shiny spots around up in here<br />
down here some in here<br />
those are spots where you're seeing the<br />
surface of the strip that's been cut<br />
with a saw and there's sort of dull<br />
sections are all where it's been hit<br />
with the sander so I'd like to get rid<br />
of all those shiny spots and the trick<br />
there isn't to just go and hit those<br />
shiny spots with the sander it's the<br />
level the areas around it down to the<br />
level of that low spot so there's a<br />
couple ways you can do it you can do it<br />
with the sander some of them up in here<br />
I've got these are where the really<br />
sharp points the strips come in between<br />
two other strips and those ten does not<br />
want to bend up as the stern sweeps up<br />
here but I think I'm gonna do there is<br />
just hit those areas with a spokeshave<br />
and essentially I'm lowering the wood<br />
around those low spots<br />
and I'll hit it with a sander again see<br />
if it looks any better<br />
obviously I've made some new shiny spots<br />
trying saying those level see how it was<br />
a bunch of shiny spots in here - between<br />
strips looks like I just didn't hit that<br />
quite as much with the sander<br />
[Music]<br />
there's a little bit of shine up in here<br />
left but otherwise that's looking pretty<br />
good<br />
so that's sixty grit on the deck now<br />
I'll flip the boat over and start<br />
working on the bottom right now the only<br />
thing holding the deck onto this strong<br />
back is a little bit of residual glue<br />
you're just going to tape it down just<br />
so as I manhandling I'm just gonna flip<br />
it over onto these cradles on the<br />
sawhorse doesn't work on it there so it<br />
took about ten minutes remove the<br />
staples from the deck and then here's<br />
another 15 minutes<br />
so it took twenty five minutes<br />
I'll ask the first pass with the 60 grit<br />
so I could cut down pretty well as a<br />
couple shiny spots deal with this<br />
looking good I'm going to take the hull<br />
off the forms and then the deck off the<br />
forms and create two sets of forms one<br />
for the deck one for the hole just to<br />
make it easier to work on so I can work<br />
on the deck and work on the hull kind of<br />
at the same time without having to flip<br />
back and forth between them obviously<br />
you could do what I did before or just<br />
as I finished one part flip it over do<br />
the other part but it is a little heavy<br />
with all the forms in there and the<br />
strong back and so forth so I'm just<br />
going to take it all apart and what I'm<br />
going to do is I don't have two full<br />
sets of forms so I'm going to just take<br />
every other form and put every other<br />
form on the other strong back and that<br />
way I have two sets of forms with<br />
instead of a ten inch spacing like I<br />
have on these forms I'll have a twenty<br />
inch space at this point it's all<br />
stripped up it's not a big deal so<br />
that's the plan<br />
[Music]<br />
I've got these little half-inch spaces I<br />
can put in in lieu of the form and so<br />
the spacing stones<br />
[Music]<br />
I'm gonna make this strong back to the<br />
deck and I'm going to keep the bow forms<br />
on the deck because the deck is just<br />
smaller<br />
[Music]<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Music]<br />
I'm just gonna put a little dab of our<br />
hot melt glue on the forms just near the<br />
shear line to just help secure the<br />
Deccan Hall to those forms so they don't<br />
shift around as I'm sanding<br />
I'm now going to send everything 60 grid<br />
on a longboard this is to fare out the<br />
surface the first pass with the random<br />
orbital 60 grit was to level things out<br />
get rid of the glue start to get rid of<br />
the facets between the strips this will<br />
tend to make sure that there's no divots<br />
left by that sanding and to help just<br />
get a smooth surface<br />
[Music]<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Music]<br />
so now the boats fair I've leveled out<br />
all the inconsistencies between the<br />
strips I've gotten rid of any<br />
inconsistencies in the link with the<br />
longboard now really all I need to do is<br />
get rid of the scratches from the 60<br />
grit so first step I'm going to step up<br />
to 80 grit and now I'm going to put a<br />
contour pad on this will make the sander<br />
conform more to the surface of the boat<br />
and be a little bit less aggressive when<br />
I first ran it with this rotecks<br />
I was using the aggressive mode I'm<br />
going to turn it down to the less<br />
aggressive mode a little finer sanding<br />
again we're trying to get rid of the<br />
sanding scratches now and from here I<br />
will do some more hand sanding and then<br />
go to 120 and work my way up to 120 and<br />
finish with hand sanding 120 and that<br />
should be plenty to get rid of the<br />
scratches and have a good base for stain<br />
and epoxy fiberglass up in the ends<br />
where this sander may be a little bit<br />
big I might avoid using this sander on<br />
some of the smaller places we'll see how<br />
I feel<br />
[Music]<br />
most of the scratches from the 60 grit I<br />
like to go over it again with hand<br />
sanding to get those scratches the<br />
scratches from the 80 grit down so<br />
they're just going parallel instead of<br />
being the swirls from the random random<br />
Oracle plus I want to try out my new<br />
flexible sanding pad this is the work of<br />
pad with dust collection looks pretty<br />
good<br />
I'm going to switch over to my Finnish<br />
sander this finer orbit this is a three<br />
millimeter orbit on here we're going to<br />
continue to use my contour pad that's<br />
all sanded out to 120 I'll do one more<br />
sanding hand sanding with 120 but before<br />
I do that and want to swell out the<br />
grain a little bit just raise the grain<br />
so I have a squirt bottle with water in<br />
it so I'm just going to spritz the whole<br />
thing down make the whole thing wet let<br />
that dry overnight and I'll sand a<br />
handstand with 120 in the morning<br />
so I'm almost done with sanding now I<br />
just showed you wetting out the wood<br />
which will expand any compression areas<br />
from sanding or pulling staples or<br />
whatever may have happened but I'm<br />
letting that dry and in the next episode<br />
we'll finish up the sanding stain the<br />
boat but leave the bottom unstained and<br />
then I think in the next episode we<br />
should also be able to get right into<br />
fiberglassing we'll see how long it<br />
takes and how long the episode is trying<br />
to keep it reasonable so if you're<br />
interested in seeing that hit subscribe<br />
turn on notifications hit like hit<br />
follow whatever you like to do all those<br />
good things it really helps me and I<br />
really appreciate it if you'd like to<br />
directly support the making of these<br />
videos I've got a patreon site for a<br />
buck or two a month you can subscribe<br />
and help me produce these videos and<br />
keep them coming on a timely manner the<br />
best thing to do to support these is to<br />
head over to my website Gilliam at<br />
kayaks calm you'll find plans for this<br />
boat and a lot of others you'll find<br />
instruction books on strip building I've<br />
got two books a strip bill sea kayak<br />
which outlines the process for building<br />
a strip built sea kayak and building<br />
strip plank boats with goes into the<br />
details of strip building from building<br />
any small boat so if you're interested<br />
in any of that head over there see if<br />
there's anything you'd like so until the<br />
next episode thanks for watching and<br />
happy paddling</div>
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Sun, 29 Mar 2020 16:15:41 +0000nick4182 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comCompleting The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/completing-deck-petrel-kayak-build-e6
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Completing The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Thu, 02/27/2020 - 15:39</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Here I trim off the strips at the feature line, add an accent strip along the trimmed edges and then complete the stripping of the rest of the deck</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mini Shoulder Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/64300-veritas-miniature-shoulder-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/p…</a></li>
<li>Verita Side Rabbet Plane: <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=60012&cat=1,41182">http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=60012&cat=1,41182</a></li>
<li>Wood River Side Rabbet Plane (not as good as Veritas, but more affordable) <a href="http://amzn.to/2CvRa4f">http://amzn.to/2CvRa4f</a></li>
<li>Stanley #79 (Ebay): <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-79-Side-Rabbet-Plane">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-79-Side-Rabbet-Plane</a></li>
<li>kunz #79 (crappy castings but with love it would work great) <a href="https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx">https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx</a></li>
<li>Low Angle Block Plane: <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes&node=4063">https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes…</a></li>
<li>Apron Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/46791-veritas-apron-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/4679…</a></li>
<li>RoboBevel: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool">https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel…</a></li>
<li>T-50 Stapler: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0">https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0</a></li>
<li>Bostitch Heavy Duty Staple Remover: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L">https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L</a> 9/16"</li>
<li>T-50 Staples: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw">https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw</a></li>
<li>Craftsman Cutting Sheers: <a href="https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW">https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW</a></li>
<li>Heavy Duty Hot Melt Glue Gun: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ">https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ</a></li>
<li>1" Spring Clamps: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy">https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy</a></li>
<li>Green high-stick Tape: <a href="https://amzn.to/317aLFV">https://amzn.to/317aLFV</a></li>
<li>Titebond Glue: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP">https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP</a></li>
<li>4-oz Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B">https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body">Hey welcome to the Guillemot kayaks<br />
workshop I'm Nick Schade I design and<br />
build small boats primarily kayaks but<br />
also canoes row boats anything that you<br />
can put on top of a car I've been<br />
designing boats since the 1980s of and<br />
Gilmar kayaks was have been around since<br />
1993 I've written a couple books about<br />
building boats primarily with the strip<br />
building method and I've written<br />
articles for wooden boat magazines sea<br />
kayak or Backlund and existed and with<br />
my company Gill my kayaks I sell plans<br />
and instructions for people to build<br />
their own boats and all my designs are<br />
offered as kits to Chesapeake like craft<br />
in this episode I'll finish up stripping<br />
up the deck and get to the point where<br />
I'm about ready to put in the cockpit<br />
recess I'll start off with putting in an<br />
accent along the feature lines on the<br />
deck and then I'll fill in the remaining<br />
strips so without further ado let's get<br />
right to it<br />
I didn't make this strip long enough so<br />
I've got a little gap right here I'm<br />
just gonna glue another piece in there<br />
fill that in and it's such a small piece<br />
if I don't have a perfect fit nobody<br />
will notice so most of it will get<br />
trimmed off<br />
[Music]<br />
I didn't here's where I put that little<br />
extra bit in this is a glue the super<br />
glue right there so it's like a 32nd or<br />
64th wide at that point goes out to<br />
about there<br />
really all that did was fill a cove in<br />
on this strip so when I glued this down<br />
there wasn't a gap there<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so I cut these calming recess pieces on<br />
my CNC machine it's just a quick way to<br />
do it but I didn't get it on video so<br />
what I'm just gonna do is pre assemble<br />
this recess just to bend these around<br />
here like that put a little tape on it<br />
then super glue it together and then<br />
work on installing it on the deck of the<br />
boat<br />
I cut this recess sill piece with the<br />
grain going across like this that<br />
happened to be the way it fit in my<br />
plywood the best structurally when it's<br />
all done it's going to be fine but right<br />
now it's a little delicate because this<br />
short grain right across here so I'm<br />
just taking a little bit of a masking<br />
tape and sticking it down on this is a<br />
whole thing to bind the that grain<br />
together a little bit more give it a<br />
little bit of reinforcement you know<br />
I'll be delicate with it but just added<br />
insurance<br />
I remembered as I was gluing this up and<br />
I'm gonna stain everything and it might<br />
be a problem later because this will act<br />
as resist in here this super glue but I<br />
have some solutions I think we'll see<br />
how it works out right now before I<br />
install this bit I want to work on<br />
beveling this edge right now that edge<br />
is angled out through the square edge of<br />
the cut and want to bevel it down and a<br />
little bit inward so when I go to press<br />
it into the deck it has a squeezing<br />
tight fit there so I want to go all the<br />
way around<br />
this edge here blend this in a little<br />
bit here and there and get this a little<br />
bit more vertical for the installed unit<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
this recess is going to drop in here<br />
something like so but in order to make<br />
that fit I first got a couple an<br />
approximation of the hole that's going<br />
to drop into so I have a paper pattern<br />
here which will lay up something like<br />
this<br />
and that'll guide me on where to make<br />
the cut<br />
so I'll tape this in place but I want to<br />
get the staples out of the way first so<br />
they're not interfering with the fare so<br />
I'm just going to remove the staples<br />
from this area this heavy-duty Bostitch<br />
a staple remover is pretty nice it's a<br />
model g27 w staple remover from stanley<br />
Bostitch one thing about it basically<br />
you have this flat surface to press<br />
against the wood so it doesn't dimple<br />
the wood and you just stick the little<br />
tooth there under it push down on the<br />
lever and it lifts that staple right out<br />
of there<br />
this little tooth here you see is on a<br />
screw it can come out and you can<br />
sharpen this little tooth to make it<br />
easier to get under some of the staples<br />
I have not yet done that with this so I<br />
think I'm going to do that make it a<br />
little bit easier to get into the some<br />
of the staples that were a little too<br />
close to the wood<br />
I didn't make a knife sharp but just<br />
tried to make it a little bit easier to<br />
slide under the staple so it still has a<br />
bit of a square edge there but it's down<br />
a little bit lower good way to start so<br />
just get the tooth under the scape a<br />
little bit start wiggling it up take it<br />
out off the staple avoid trying to dig<br />
in like this that'll leave a divot in<br />
the wood little horseshoe shape that'll<br />
leave a mark that will be hard to sand<br />
out just try and slide it horizontally<br />
in and once you get it hooked in a<br />
little bit a little wiggle pull it out<br />
so be a little careful that you don't<br />
end up with a staple hanging off the<br />
bottom here like this sometimes when you<br />
go to dump it out it stays on there and<br />
you end up pressing that staple down<br />
into the wood as you go to pull the next<br />
staple out so your little careful with<br />
that<br />
seems to be in the ballpark I'm going to<br />
cut it out with a saber saw with the<br />
really fine tooth blade in there I don't<br />
want to cut through the form so I'll<br />
just go in between the forms and use a<br />
handsaw<br />
to get at the forms and again I don't<br />
want to cut too strong back so I'll come<br />
up to here and stop going to here and<br />
stop this is gonna sit in there about<br />
like this you'll see it's starting to<br />
hit this spacer in the strong back and<br />
when it's all the way in it's going to<br />
hit that it will not hit the strong back<br />
itself though it's just the spacer so<br />
I'd like to remove the spacer and in<br />
order to do that I need to move this<br />
form and in order to do that and go into<br />
some of the other forms I'll move the<br />
staples from these three forms that way<br />
so that's about enough for this episode<br />
in the next episode we'll put in the<br />
cockpit recess and see how far we get<br />
with that if you're interested in<br />
building your own boat like this head<br />
over to my website Gilliam at kayaks<br />
calm I've got plans and instructions<br />
there for this design and a bunch of<br />
other designs and there's probably a<br />
boat there suitable for your needs if<br />
you'd like to provide some direct<br />
support for these videos I've got a<br />
patreon site you can chip in a buck or<br />
two a month just to help the production<br />
of these videos if you don't want to do<br />
any of that but you like these videos<br />
and you want to see more of them hit<br />
subscribe like my facebook page share<br />
with your friends turn on notifications<br />
all that good stuff so until the next<br />
episode thanks for watching and happy<br />
paddling.</div>
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Thu, 27 Feb 2020 20:39:04 +0000nick4179 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comWhiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/whiskey-strip-microbootlegger-sport
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20</span>
<div class="field field--name-field-blog-media field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden field--entity-reference-target-type-media clearfix">
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<div class="field field--name-field-media-oembed-video field--type-string field--label-hidden field__item"><iframe src="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/media/oembed?url=https%3A//youtu.be/KVyOvjldAjc&max_width=600&max_height=337&hash=2Q78KwZeSg2XrrGVS0aKzDrJzNt2-VEbaID0A1Qakpw" frameborder="0" allowtransparency="" width="600" height="337" class="media-oembed-content" title="Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20"></iframe>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Wed, 02/26/2020 - 13:06</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li>Read along in my Book: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Building Strip Planked Boats </a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Tools:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Music: Casey Don’t You Fret - Dan Lebowitz</p>
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[Music]<br />
welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks shop I'm<br />
Nick Schade today I'm going to close off<br />
the bottom of the boat people<br />
traditionally call a last strip on the<br />
haul whiskey strip this is because you<br />
can celebrate when the last strip is<br />
done I'm not a drinker so I won't<br />
partake and it's not really the last<br />
strip on the boat anyways they've got<br />
the whole top side left to go and for<br />
those out there watching who want to<br />
celebrate go for it I've got about one<br />
and a half strips to go that little half<br />
strip is so small it's hard to work with<br />
so what I do is I end up gluing two<br />
strips together and fitting them both at<br />
once and so that's what I'll be working<br />
on today<br />
here I've got the next-to-last strip and<br />
the last strip and so I'm going to glue<br />
these two strips together and install<br />
them as a unit and so the first thing<br />
I'm gonna do one together so that's<br />
accomplished with I tape them together<br />
here and I'm gonna use superglue to do<br />
this going together I could use regular<br />
you know carpenters glue like you do<br />
everywhere else but I'm impatient so I'm<br />
just gonna go the quick way some CA glue<br />
say no acrylate glue like super glue<br />
lines up<br />
the accelerant so here we have the<br />
center line and the strips I'm building<br />
in from this side over and so this strip<br />
here is curved and this edge here is<br />
straight and this is these strips are<br />
going to go in parallel to this curved<br />
strip so I'm going to end up bending<br />
this whole thing in place you know it<br />
looks kind of tricky now to make that<br />
Bend but it actually works out now what<br />
I want to do is mark that curve so the<br />
way I'm going to accomplish that it's a<br />
little bit confusing I'm going to take<br />
this strip flip it over get it all lined<br />
up here and then I'm going to mark it<br />
from the other side so this edge here is<br />
going to end up being curved and when I<br />
go to mark this I'm going to be marking<br />
what's essentially going to end up being<br />
this straight edge but I'm going to be<br />
marking it along this seam here this<br />
edge right there so this is confusing so<br />
I'm gonna reach it under here just face<br />
him under there in between each form I'm<br />
also gonna mark the end the tip of each<br />
point here so now I have the curve<br />
marked here this is all going to bend so<br />
that this curved line is now parallel to<br />
this straight line and this straight<br />
edge here is going to be parallel to<br />
this curved edge that's confusing but I<br />
haven't found a better way to mark this<br />
accurately and again I could have<br />
installed this long strip like yesterday<br />
and then had my whiskey' strip be this<br />
narrow one right here<br />
but it gets hard to handle such a small<br />
piece of wood when it's that narrow and<br />
work on it accurately having a little<br />
bit bigger piece of woods easier to work<br />
with and I still need to figure out<br />
those tapers and the width here is the<br />
width it needs to be I know the strip<br />
can bend I have bent all the other ones<br />
this is just one more strip those little<br />
bend the same way so that's where we're<br />
going from here I'll end up cutting this<br />
curve on the bandsaw but first let me<br />
just Bolden up that line so I don't make<br />
mistakes and cutting I'm gonna cut<br />
outside of that line so again I mark the<br />
cut like this but it's going to be<br />
installed like this and so essentially<br />
the process is just like I do for all<br />
the other strips fit one end and then<br />
work on fitting the other and so I'll<br />
try and get it so it's fitting nicely<br />
along this edge at one end trying to get<br />
my registration marks here lined up so<br />
that's to get the grain matching going<br />
and then once it's good at one end or<br />
close to good I'll leave a little leeway<br />
from mistakes and then switch to the<br />
other end and try and get this in fitted<br />
in so it's just a matter of patience and<br />
whittling away at it and nothing too<br />
complicated<br />
break out the block plane I do find it<br />
useful use the bottom of the boat as a<br />
work surface but if I go directly on the<br />
bottom of the boat when I tried a plane<br />
to the end I end up hitting the boat<br />
don't want to do that so I just grab a<br />
spare strip and lift up off the boat and<br />
now I can start playing down towards<br />
that line<br />
you gonna bring it down closer the whole<br />
length I was a little bit conservative<br />
with my pants off cut so initially just<br />
sort the strip in place try and see<br />
where it's binding up first<br />
as expected right out at the tip and I<br />
can look at my bevel angle the feel for<br />
how things are I'll have a whole lot of<br />
room to change the length here right now<br />
it's tight here but loose here in order<br />
to get it tighter here I need to slide<br />
the whole thing forward a bit and so<br />
that means I need to remove material<br />
from where it's tight all right now it<br />
fits up in the very tip here but it's<br />
starting to get tight back here so if I<br />
drag my pencil along the keel line as I<br />
try and push this new strip in I end up<br />
with a mark along here showing this is<br />
where it fits perfectly this is where it<br />
basically doesn't fit at all and so I<br />
want to do my shaving from here forward<br />
and basically don't shave any beyond<br />
this point it doesn't need to go any<br />
beyond that point at this stage<br />
so now it's fitting up to here do the<br />
same drill so it fits up to here doesn't<br />
fit there so I can remove material and<br />
back here and move a little bit forward<br />
so where it doesn't fit at all I do the<br />
most strokes with the plane and where<br />
I've just barely doesn't fit essentially<br />
I only do one stroke of the play<br />
all right now I'm at about the widest<br />
point of the strip I'll get a little bit<br />
more fitting here and then start at the<br />
other end and I'll start working on the<br />
other end so I'll just roughly clean up<br />
this cut here so at this point I'm just<br />
looking forward where it binds up in<br />
shaving off the high spots winding up<br />
right there and sort of right here at<br />
the same time it was a gap right here so<br />
I will trim a little bit more at the end<br />
here I need to sharpen this tool<br />
all right we're playing sharpen again<br />
let's get back to it all right so now it<br />
fits in this end this end I don't want<br />
to work on the overall length for these<br />
long tapers can sometimes help to just<br />
back up the strip with another strip so<br />
it doesn't flex away on that really<br />
narrow tip<br />
I want to get my grain marks here to<br />
line up this is a task which just takes<br />
patience taking small thin slices off at<br />
a time<br />
I'm just looking for where it looks<br />
tight and moving material from that area<br />
first and now on my marks here now I<br />
could very easily make a piece it just<br />
drops in almost the first try what makes<br />
us take so long I didn't want to fit to<br />
be really tight that's why it's such a<br />
painstaking process if I just wanted<br />
something to fill a gap up I could have<br />
you know essentially cut to my pencil<br />
line here and dropped it right in and<br />
filled in the gap with schmutz and that<br />
is a perfectly valid way of doing it<br />
here I'm just trying to make it look<br />
like I didn't do that so it's one step<br />
at a time<br />
patience fitting as you go<br />
and hopefully it'll all fit in really<br />
nice and we're done so we've got it<br />
really well fitted at that end I'm going<br />
to do the same at this end and I want to<br />
get some marks here to serve as guides<br />
for the line about 1/8 inch off and<br />
length here and there's some tight<br />
mostly hitting right in here now links<br />
that length looks good or maybe a 32nd<br />
often like there I have the OS<br />
all right yeah it's pretty well so now<br />
we'll put some glue on it and secure it<br />
in place it's not perfect it's not bad<br />
the gray pattern on this isn't that<br />
distinctive so it's hard to see really<br />
the book matching but you can see hints<br />
of it here and there and did a pretty<br />
good job of matching up the points of<br />
these strips on each side not quite as<br />
good at the stern I'm off by 3/4 of an<br />
inch here so what causes the disparities<br />
between the end of this strip coming in<br />
here and the end of this strip coming in<br />
here ideally I'd like to have them lined<br />
up next to each other but what causes<br />
that is a variety of factors if the<br />
center line is a little bit off one way<br />
or the other that will adjust where the<br />
strip coming in from one side of the<br />
other is going to hit it but also the<br />
micro bootlegger sport has this chine<br />
line going on here and so the number of<br />
strips counting across here and how long<br />
it takes to get from this edge to the<br />
center line and from this edge to the<br />
center line is very dependent on exactly<br />
where these two lines are cut getting<br />
these precisely the same is going to<br />
control how closely these meet coming up<br />
the side of the boat we<br />
to the water line and I made a trim line<br />
there and then I had to add more strips<br />
and then trim it again and keep on<br />
adding more strips so I had one two<br />
three different places for small amounts<br />
of error to occur and really the amount<br />
of difference from this point to that<br />
point remember when I'm planing away at<br />
the strips I don't need to plane away<br />
much to affect how far down the length<br />
this grain alignment mark is we're<br />
talking maybe a sixteenth of an inch or<br />
even less between this edge and that<br />
edge to create an error of you know one<br />
inch there or instantly a quarter so it<br />
doesn't take much to throw it off a<br />
little bit micro bootlegger sports<br />
unusual for most strip built designs in<br />
that it has this chain here and so often<br />
if you just start out at the right place<br />
the shear line and are very good at<br />
keeping things even as you come up and<br />
get that centerline cut precisely it'll<br />
be a lot easier to get a good alignment<br />
there again this is just one of those<br />
things to think about I don't I know<br />
from experience that this will be<br />
virtually unnoticeable just everything<br />
seems to be coming down to the point<br />
here and where exactly that point is the<br />
eye just doesn't pick up on it and if<br />
you don't like that answer this is the<br />
bottom of the boat and so nobody's going<br />
to see it so next episode will be<br />
flipping the forms over and breaking the<br />
forms off of the strips that way I can<br />
go ahead and start stripping the deck<br />
and I don't need to worry about having<br />
to get the forms broken out of the hull<br />
and the deck at the same time by having<br />
broken out of the hull already I'll be<br />
able to remove the hull when it comes<br />
time to remove it and then easily remove<br />
the deck forms by having full access to<br />
those forms as well so it's<br />
it's looking good I'm really pleased<br />
with how it's coming out if you have any<br />
questions please post them in the<br />
comments<br />
I appreciate your likes your<br />
subscriptions notifications sharing with<br />
your friends share on Facebook support<br />
me on patreon buy a t-shirt buy set of<br />
plans that all supports the operation of<br />
this channel lets me justify the time<br />
it's been making these videos I do<br />
appreciate your support<br />
so until the next episode thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Wed, 26 Feb 2020 18:06:00 +0000nick4177 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStripping The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E5https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/stripping-deck-petrel-kayak-build-e5
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Stripping The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E5</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:34</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>I scarf together sheer strips and then strip the deck up to before installing some accent strips at the deck feature lines</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mini Shoulder Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/64300-veritas-miniature-shoulder-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/p…</a></li>
<li>RoboBevel: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool">https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel…</a></li>
<li>Low Angle Block Plane: <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes&node=4063">https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes…</a></li>
<li>Apron Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/46791-veritas-apron-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/4679…</a></li>
<li>Craftsman Cutting Sheers: <a href="https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW">https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW</a></li>
<li>Heavy Duty Hot Melt Glue Gun: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ">https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ</a></li>
<li>1" Spring Clamps: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy">https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy</a></li>
<li>Green high-stick Tape: <a href="https://amzn.to/317aLFV">https://amzn.to/317aLFV</a></li>
<li>Titebond Glue: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP">https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP</a></li>
<li>4-oz Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B">https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B</a></li>
</ul>
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<h4 class="panel-title"><a aria-controls="collapseTwo" aria-expanded="false" class="collapsed" data-parent="#accordion-example" data-toggle="collapse" href="#collapseTwo">Transcript</a></h4>
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<div class="panel-body">hey welcome to Episode Five of building<br />
the Petrel strip built sea kayak in<br />
this episode we will be working on<br />
stripping the deck I apologize for the<br />
sound in advance I had the problem with<br />
my microphone it was recorded over a<br />
year ago so not much they can do about<br />
it now but let's get right to it<br />
I've cut down another shear strip for<br />
the deck I scarfed it together to have a<br />
long piece out of the dark wood and then<br />
I've tapered the ends so basically I'm<br />
ready at this point to start beveling<br />
this edge so I get a nice tight joint on<br />
the outside there again we're trying to<br />
get essentially a miter between the hull<br />
and the deck here doesn't need to be<br />
perfect we'll have a chance to clean it<br />
up later but we just want to get it<br />
close so we've done a number the forum's<br />
just to make it easy to drop things back<br />
into place so on to by the time we get<br />
to seven basically no beveling is<br />
required so from here we'll take a block<br />
plane and just eyeball the gap there and<br />
try and match the gap<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so the Geo strips join it the balance<br />
turn just like this and so I want to<br />
make a miter between those two before I<br />
do that since I'm going to put some glue<br />
in there I just want to put a little bit<br />
of masking tape over the inner stem<br />
there so things don't get cleared down<br />
so this is going to come straight out<br />
and meet in the sharp point<br />
something like that and then to get a<br />
good tight fit on I'll just run saw<br />
through it again that's a good tight fit<br />
they can put a little glue in there hold<br />
that together with a little tape<br />
I'm also gonna clip off that sharp point<br />
because that's just gonna break off<br />
eventually anyways so I'm gonna do an<br />
alternating herringbone on the deck and<br />
that means the second set of strips run<br />
down the center line and then the third<br />
set will run along the shear line center<br />
line shear line center line shear line<br />
sentiments your line etc and we have a<br />
cockpit in the middle so we only need to<br />
go as far as the cockpit you'll see the<br />
first flat form is where the cockpit is<br />
I want to make sure I'm into the cockpit<br />
so I'm gonna cut it off even with that<br />
form so I want a cove out situation here<br />
since I'm gonna be doing this<br />
alternating thing I always want the cove<br />
out so I'm always fitting a strip into a<br />
cove so I took a couple strips and I<br />
ripped the bead off and now I have two<br />
opposing coves and this will fit right<br />
up into the end and run down the center<br />
line as far as the cockpit and I could<br />
take one strip and put coals on both<br />
sides and just run that up the middle<br />
and that would work great however I do<br />
like to get a little bit of a natural v<br />
up near the bow I think it looks good so<br />
back here it's going to be rounded and a<br />
smooth transition from left to right<br />
side up and here I do want a little bit<br />
of an angle there so there's a little<br />
feature aligned Ridge right down the<br />
middle so by having two pieces I can<br />
naturally get that and I'll end up doing<br />
a little bit of beveling on these strips<br />
to get them so they middle<br />
a bit of an angle but only so far as a<br />
couple forms back yet so I'm gonna start<br />
by just putting that a little bit of a<br />
bevel in there so I start to form that<br />
feet next I want to put points on these<br />
strips so they fit up into the valve<br />
right there between those two sheer<br />
strips I'm just going to get this<br />
centered so the intersection here is on<br />
the same on both sides<br />
mark that tape<br />
and that looks like it'll probably be a<br />
pretty good fit I just need to put a<br />
bead on each of those edges so beads<br />
pretty easy to create just take knock<br />
the corners off and then knock the<br />
corners off the corners<br />
it looks good<br />
so there's some tape curves right here<br />
just above the shear line as it's<br />
transitioning to the back deck and the<br />
normal width strip would end up being<br />
pretty far off the forms back here so<br />
there's a pretty big gap right back here<br />
with a regular width strip so I ended up<br />
cutting some half-inch wide strips by<br />
just taking one of my regular strips<br />
cutting it to half-inch by cutting the<br />
cove off and then re running it through<br />
and re-establishing a cove on there and<br />
with these the narrower strips conform<br />
to that shape a little bit better and<br />
then when I go to put the next strip on<br />
that'll be a better fit so I have these<br />
half inch wide strips I'm going to use<br />
those on either side on the next to the<br />
shear and these strips are 17 feet long<br />
and we're following the shear line here<br />
which is on the 17 foot boat is a little<br />
bit longer than 17 feet so these strips<br />
end up a few inches shy of being<br />
full-length so I have some extra strips<br />
here and what I'm going to do is fit one<br />
of these strips at one end fit another<br />
strip at the other end and then make it<br />
joint someplace here in the middle just<br />
a butt joint in that way I can get the<br />
fit easily<br />
without worrying about the length and<br />
just do the length adjustment by cutting<br />
that butt joint in the middle I've got a<br />
simple little miter box here that I can<br />
just use to cut off the end of the strip<br />
where I'm going to make the butt joint<br />
it's got a little bit of an angle to it<br />
not much<br />
it's nothing magical about this it's<br />
just by using this I can get good<br />
consistent joints whenever I cut the<br />
butt joint and it's simple simple easy<br />
to make just a couple scraps of plywood<br />
around a piece of wood quick and easy so<br />
I'm just going to cut off the end of the<br />
strip here with this now this ends cut<br />
to a known angle and if I use the miter<br />
box on the other piece it'll cut a<br />
matching angle<br />
I cut this over long that way I don't<br />
have to deal with the excess swinging<br />
around there but I still have room to<br />
work<br />
[Music]<br />
so I have a full-length strip here<br />
now the 17-foot strips are long enough<br />
to go all the way from the bow to the<br />
stern here the tricky part is I need to<br />
fit this end up into the cove and have<br />
it exactly the right length so when I<br />
glue it all in it's tight there and it's<br />
tight here so I've dry fit it here and<br />
put some clamps some little clamping<br />
jigs on it to hold it in place while I<br />
make some measurements so with it fit<br />
into the cove all the way down here<br />
I'm gonna take and get this tight in<br />
there as far as I can get and then make<br />
a line just a mark like that I tend to<br />
use a double line just so it doesn't get<br />
confused with other marks I make on the<br />
boat so this means when these lines are<br />
lined up it's the right length to fit<br />
all the way up in the bow so I can now<br />
unclamp the whole thing and just work on<br />
this end and try and get these joints<br />
lined up get those marks lines so I have<br />
unclamp the far end and now I just want<br />
to work on getting the length right so<br />
here the those marks are lined up<br />
perfectly right there but I want to give<br />
myself some room for error so I'm gonna<br />
slide it to make it a little bit longer<br />
so I've got about an inch between the<br />
marks now<br />
and so the strips gonna come up to about<br />
here let's all take and lop it off with<br />
that blank<br />
now I want to fit the taper up into<br />
there so this is where it's going to be<br />
when it's lined up I've got enough<br />
length here to work on it a little bit<br />
and so I'm just gonna line this up with<br />
that the end of the gap here and then<br />
see where it's the same width so I'm<br />
just gonna line it up with the end of<br />
the gap here and then see where it<br />
overlaps the strip on the other side<br />
make a mark there and then just draw out<br />
that taper so it's gonna look something<br />
like that<br />
and I'll take and cut off most of that<br />
excess now I want to plane it down to<br />
the line so it's down to the line now I<br />
want to bead on there so I'm going to<br />
cut the corner off both corners and then<br />
cut the corner off those corners so I<br />
get a pretty good approximation of a<br />
bead on there light it up and see how it<br />
goes into that gap this is quite a bit<br />
of upward curvature here in the end so<br />
it's gonna stress the strip a little bit<br />
I'm sticking it into the cove there and<br />
using the cove to help guide it up feel<br />
pressed up into that Cove all right so<br />
it's bottomed out here it's still a bit<br />
of a gap there actually that's not too<br />
bad for a first effort<br />
so we still have an inch here of excess<br />
length in order to make it fit at the<br />
other end so even though though this is<br />
perfect the lengths not perfect so we've<br />
got to trim this down some more and one<br />
thing to remember is there's a inch inch<br />
difference in length here that means I<br />
want to take an inch off in length here<br />
approximately so that's going to be<br />
cutting this back at the tape or<br />
something like that so I'm not taking an<br />
inch off this bevel I'm taking an inch<br />
off the length we want to make sure we<br />
don't mess up the the bevel angle here<br />
still have a half inch or so to go back<br />
here this fit looks pretty good maybe a<br />
little bit loose up here in the toe and<br />
tighten the heel although if this really<br />
sunk down in there there's a bit of a<br />
gap in that but that's not bad just Cove<br />
in there with the bead up in the cove<br />
that'll be a pretty tight joint but I<br />
just still need to take some length off<br />
that's pretty darn good for length it's<br />
off by maybe three 30 seconds let's go<br />
and try and make it fit so we'll glue it<br />
up staple it in go on to the next one<br />
so I'm at the point now where the strips<br />
coming up the side have reached the edge<br />
of the cockpit as a consequence I no<br />
longer need to have full-length strips<br />
going from one end to the other I can<br />
start at the bow come back to the<br />
cockpit sort of the stern come up to the<br />
cockpit and leave the cockpit hole open<br />
and makes fitting a lot easier I don't<br />
need to worry about getting the length<br />
perfect I just need to fit the ends and<br />
have them overhang the cockpit hole<br />
I just want to make sure I have enough<br />
wood there to get past the edge of the<br />
cockpit<br />
there's a little feature line on the<br />
back deck and I actually have it on the<br />
front deck also but it's more subtle on<br />
the back deck where the deck comes up<br />
rounded and has a bit of an angle and<br />
then flat I've got that marks right here<br />
and here and on the back deck is quite<br />
subtle but I think it highlights the<br />
shape of the boat nicely and what I want<br />
to do is put an accent on that feature<br />
line right here right here and I'll do<br />
the same up at the bow of the boat but<br />
for now I'm just concerned about the<br />
back deck and you see this feature line<br />
starts it's a couple strips away here<br />
here it's less than a strip and it<br />
continues up to about here and so what I<br />
plan to do is just strip over that<br />
section and trim it back put in an<br />
accent stripe and then I'll continue<br />
stripping so I want to do is make sure<br />
I've got that feature line covered with<br />
strips and then I'll come back after the<br />
glue is dried and reach from that and<br />
put in the accent so I'm just going to<br />
put in a couple short pieces of strip<br />
here get them glued and stapled and<br />
placed let that dry and then while I'm<br />
working on the foredeck this should be<br />
drying up and I should be able to come<br />
back and trim back that feature along<br />
so I'll come back later mark this out<br />
and trim that off and then continue<br />
stripping on the front deck the feature<br />
lines a little bit more obvious you see<br />
there's a quite distinct angle right<br />
there but I've got a few more strips<br />
before I get there at least two before I<br />
start to get this and then I'll cover<br />
the lower section like I did on the back<br />
deck and then come trim that off and<br />
then continue stripping the deck above<br />
that same on both sides so I'm just<br />
looking for strips to run from the point<br />
up here back to the cockpit the cockpit<br />
starting to shorten up here they're<br />
starting to get farther forward so I'll<br />
just make sure I step beyond the edge of<br />
the cockpit and I want to make sure I<br />
strip beyond the edge of that feature I<br />
put the glue in here I'm not putting a<br />
lot of glue just enough to get a little<br />
bit of squeeze out when I go to put the<br />
strip in I want it dripping out the<br />
strength of the boats<br />
[Music]<br />
so I'm up to the point where I've gone<br />
past the feature line at this forum so<br />
now I'm just gonna fill up past the<br />
feature line on this side then go do the<br />
same on the other side so just find<br />
whatever strips I have that are long<br />
enough to get past it and them in place<br />
notice that as I put these strips up to<br />
come to the feature line I don't try and<br />
wrap over the feature line I don't try<br />
and bend it down on to the flatter deck<br />
to pass that angle I want to have it<br />
come up matching that angle then I'll<br />
trim it off and come in from the other<br />
side<br />
okay that's enough for today that's a<br />
long episode the next episode we'll<br />
finish up stripping up the deck we'll<br />
put an accent at the feature line and<br />
just close up the deck and maybe we'll<br />
get to putting some of the combing in<br />
we'll see how far we get how long that<br />
episode runs I didn't expect this<br />
episode to go as long but I figured I'd<br />
get all the relevant stuff in in one<br />
episode and the next episode will be<br />
something a little bit different so if<br />
you liked this episode if you're<br />
interested to see what's coming up<br />
subscribe turn on notifications hit like<br />
all of that good stuff<br />
if you'd like to provide some direct<br />
support to these videos my patreon site<br />
will let you contribute a little bit to<br />
the production you know monthly amount<br />
small monthly amount and I really<br />
appreciate it every bit helps you can<br />
also go to my website and buy plans for<br />
this design and other sea kayaks<br />
recreational kayaks row boats canoes etc<br />
I have a nice selection of a small car<br />
tappable boats with all of my design and<br />
there's really something special about<br />
going out on a boat you built yourself<br />
so until the next episode thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling</div>
</div>
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</div>
Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:34:28 +0000nick4168 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStripping to Music - microBootlegger Sport - E19https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/stripping-music-microbootlegger
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Stripping to Music - microBootlegger Sport - E19</span>
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<div class="field field--name-field-media-oembed-video field--type-string field--label-hidden field__item"><iframe src="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/media/oembed?url=https%3A//youtu.be/YHH1p82r6gU&max_width=600&max_height=337&hash=b0tr4zA_wWL4JqAESt5DdROgLv4ceJfJb_yPKslvVuk" frameborder="0" allowtransparency="" width="600" height="337" class="media-oembed-content" title="Stripping to Music - microBootlegger Sport - E19"></iframe>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:12</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>I didn't put much dialog on this video Continuing on the bottom. Fitting both ends of strips in a precise manner.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li>Read along in my Book: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Building Strip Planked Boats </a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Tools:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<h3>Music:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Tupelo Train - Chris Haugen</li>
<li>Front Porch Blues - Chris Haugen</li>
<li>Center Ring - Freedom Trail Studio</li>
</ul>
</div>
Tue, 18 Feb 2020 19:12:16 +0000nick4167 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comInto the Mystic - microBootlegger Sport - E18https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/mystic-microbootlegger-sport-e18
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Into the Mystic - microBootlegger Sport - E18</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Tue, 02/18/2020 - 13:17</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Continuing on the bottom. Fitting both ends of strips in a precise manner.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li>Read along in my Book: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Building Strip Planked Boats </a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Music:</p>
<ul>
<li>Achaidh Cheide - Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/">http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/</a></li>
<li>Out for Blood - Jingle Punks</li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body">[Music]<br />
hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks<br />
shop I'm Nick Schade. Yesterday I took a<br />
day off from the shop to go down to the<br />
road to Mystic Seaport my friend Dave<br />
Fasulo had some of his students there<br />
doing some boat building and they were<br />
building like ganymede kayak then all<br />
comes on the staff of Mystic Seaport and<br />
he was guiding two of day's students to<br />
the building of the stitching glue kayak<br />
and using my ganymede design chesapeake<br />
light craft had provided them with a kit<br />
and Ben was showing them the steps of<br />
doing filling and putting glass on the<br />
scenes so that was a fun break to just<br />
wander around the Seaport briefly and<br />
see what they were up to and today I'm<br />
back in the shop and I'm going to be<br />
working on trimming up the chine line<br />
throwing it up and then stripping from<br />
there up to the keel line I probably<br />
won't close off the bottom today but<br />
like to make some good progress in the<br />
last episode when we've left off the<br />
micro bootleggers Sport build I have<br />
just added strips up to the chine line<br />
and I left off without throwing up that<br />
new edge so like we did on the other<br />
side back in whatever episode that was<br />
I'm going to mark out the where the<br />
chine line is going to be sawed off<br />
playing it down through get the bevel<br />
right and then from there we can start<br />
adding strips across the bottom so I'm<br />
not going to spend a lot of time talking<br />
about what I'm doing trimming out this<br />
giant line if you want to see how I go<br />
about doing that go back to the other<br />
episode I'll try and put a link up here<br />
let me just get to work on this see if I<br />
can knock this off pretty quick and<br />
we'll go from there<br />
[Music]<br />
I tried clamping my spline below my<br />
marks and putting the clamps here where<br />
you have to jump around with the pencil<br />
just because I don't have a lot to clamp<br />
on to in the middle here where the last<br />
strip is pretty much right on the line<br />
that I'm trying to cut to so I don't<br />
have anything above it to clamp to but<br />
the problem with this is now the clamps<br />
are in the way for even citing down the<br />
line so it really pays to have the<br />
spline above the line and that way the<br />
clamps are out of the way and you've got<br />
a clear view of the line you're actually<br />
trying to get right so I'm going to move<br />
the spline up above the marks and then I<br />
can look at the bottom edge because that<br />
will be the edge and actually trying to<br />
get right<br />
[Music]<br />
so after lunch I sharpened the tools and<br />
I got the top edge of this first strip<br />
after the chine beveled out with a robo<br />
bevel and a little bit of hand beveling<br />
here and there now I'm dry fitting the<br />
next strip after that first strip so<br />
I've got the alignment marks here in the<br />
middle all lined up I'm gonna have to<br />
fit both ends this time but first I'm<br />
just gonna mark this end and get this in<br />
fitted in eventually I'm going to have<br />
to do the same drill down at the other<br />
end but I want to get this in fit first<br />
just in case I overshoot this or<br />
understood it a little bit I want this<br />
end to be marked to fit correctly<br />
however the first end is fair so even<br />
though theoretically I could mark it<br />
right now just I know this is a distinct<br />
possibility that things won't be perfect<br />
up there but I wanted a good tight fit<br />
at both ends as closely it can get to a<br />
good tight fit so I've cut my marks<br />
there I can release the clamps now again<br />
I'll pack this off an inch or so mark<br />
where the ends gonna be cut it off<br />
assuming that's the finished end I can<br />
just mark where it crosses the center<br />
line here and choose one of my plethora<br />
of straight edges mark that I've gone<br />
over this all before us I'm doing it<br />
quickly<br />
and off the excess it's just a little<br />
bit more comfortable to stand on this<br />
side as I'm fitting it especially if I<br />
want to show it in the camera all right<br />
again so I'm going to hold this is what<br />
I think is that angle it's gonna be on<br />
the boat and I'm gonna hold my block<br />
plane vertically and now them down<br />
towards that line and again this is one<br />
of those situations where I don't try<br />
and get the perfect fit on the first go<br />
I'm gonna ease into it I could spend a<br />
lot of time really accurately measuring<br />
this get some bevel gauges out really<br />
get it all dialed in and then try and<br />
cut it right on that line so it just<br />
drops in the first time that would be<br />
awesome I just can't do that so in order<br />
to get an accurate tight fit here I just<br />
accept the fact that I'm not going to be<br />
perfect and try to ease into it one step<br />
at a time so the first thing is just to<br />
get a rough approximation of what I<br />
think this tape is going to be and based<br />
on holding this strip at some<br />
orientation holding the plane at a<br />
vertical orientation then bringing it<br />
down so I get this cut parallel to that<br />
mark I made and I go ahead and try and<br />
fit it in and you know with some<br />
experience I've gotten to the point<br />
where I can generally get the taper<br />
pretty much first shot and right here<br />
I've got like 1/32 of an inch opening<br />
gap at the top so if the taper is good I<br />
just need to adjust the gap a little bit<br />
so again hold the plane up against the<br />
surface tilt it out a little bit so<br />
there's a little bit of a gap up at the<br />
top matching what I just saw<br />
that's my calibration on what's going to<br />
be the right<br />
angle and so now I'll just hold that<br />
angle until I see the gap disappear<br />
bring the piece back drop it in and<br />
right now I have basically no gap up at<br />
this center line I've got a little bit<br />
of gap along the side here I was not<br />
able to get my Robo bevel up in here so<br />
I have not squared that up to the<br />
orientation of this strip it's tight<br />
down there starting to get a little<br />
loose there so what I'm going to do is<br />
just again look at the gap on the bottom<br />
side of that strip and see if I can get<br />
that planed away so I'm just going to<br />
hold the plane kind of approximating<br />
that gap I just saw doing it left-handed<br />
for the camera<br />
all right so now it's tight on both<br />
sides top and bottom but my mark on the<br />
boat is here in the mark on the strip is<br />
here so again and inch and a half or so<br />
away so holding it tight it flat up<br />
against the taper and bevel I've made<br />
already go the full length and then I<br />
was what four swipes five swipes you<br />
know try to fit again all right so now<br />
I'm down to about an inch my taper is<br />
still good my bevel is still tight cut<br />
that very tip off the end there all<br />
right it's starting to be a little tight<br />
at the toe a little bit looser at the<br />
heel a little bit of open at the heel<br />
I'm down to three quarters of an inch<br />
extra swipe at the tip with the toe hold<br />
it out a little bit at the heel it's a<br />
nice long strokes now when I place a<br />
strip in here I could really jam it in<br />
and make it tight it would tend to peel<br />
this side up a little bit as I do that<br />
thus wedging this wedging a gap into the<br />
already installed strips here and you<br />
know I could make it fit so the goal is<br />
to have it just slide in and stop<br />
rightward wants to be and right now I'm<br />
seeing when I do that the tip is down<br />
low it's recessed from the surface a bit<br />
and it's tight at the heel so I think I<br />
overdid my adjustment last time yes bet<br />
it's even even the whole way across<br />
nouns 1/2 inch and it's starting to open<br />
up at the top pretty good<br />
3/8 of an inch quarter inch very tight<br />
and good so I'm adjusting as I'm going<br />
and the goal is to have it by the time I<br />
get these length marks lined up<br />
everything should be a really nice tight<br />
seam good sixteenth of an inch all right<br />
so that's perfect right up there if the<br />
alignment marks lined up right here type<br />
full-length of the scene now with that<br />
still in place I'm gonna clamp the strip<br />
back down and make marks at the other<br />
end so my length marks are now made and<br />
I can unclamp the strip I set up these<br />
little clamps on my work surface here<br />
just as a place to catch the end of this<br />
strip as I'm working on it so it's not<br />
just dragging around on the floor<br />
breaking that tip off that we went<br />
through all that effort to make perfect<br />
all right so it's gonna fit in like that<br />
and they will back it off an inch or so<br />
make a mark there one thing about having<br />
a plane in your pocket you've always got<br />
a pencil sharp huh there we go nice and<br />
sharp<br />
same drill at the other end<br />
it marks up at each end and so now I'm<br />
ready to put some glue on it and install<br />
it I'm also gonna put some glue on the<br />
tapered ends they just I don't go quite<br />
all the way up the end of the taper<br />
because I'm going to end up sliding it<br />
into that space and that's gonna smear<br />
some glue back along the length I don't<br />
want to end up with a blob of glue on<br />
the center line that's going to<br />
interfere with the next strip so I go<br />
from the tip down to just shy at the end<br />
one of the things they like about using<br />
tape as a clamp is it lets me get a lot<br />
of clamping done quickly while the glue<br />
is still wet and easy to squeeze out of<br />
there as the glue sets up it gets harder<br />
to squeeze out it's harder to get a tape<br />
joint so if you spend a lot of time<br />
trying to get one spot together other<br />
spots are starting to set up a little<br />
bit and it's going to just be a little<br />
bit harder to get those nice and tight<br />
so tape is quick gets the job done<br />
quickly while the glue is still soft and<br />
wet now I can come back and supplement<br />
that with some stitches<br />
[Music]<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Music]<br />
okay I'm gonna call that a day I don't<br />
know how much that actually got recorded<br />
today but I'm now three strips beyond<br />
the chine so I've got three strips on<br />
today total it's not bad<br />
this is slower going because I'm fitting<br />
strips at both ends but it's looking<br />
nice things are lining up really nicely<br />
I think it's really going to look sharp<br />
if you've watched this far you should<br />
probably be hitting like and subscribe<br />
and all of that stuff and it would be<br />
awesome if you have supported me on<br />
patreon but I appreciate the support of<br />
just likes and subscriptions in the next<br />
episode I should make it most of the way<br />
to the end on the bottom here probably<br />
won't make to the closing strip of<br />
better known as the whiskey strip but<br />
we'll see how far we get until then<br />
thanks for watching and happy paddling<br />
[Music]<br />
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Tue, 18 Feb 2020 18:17:42 +0000nick4166 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStripping The Keel Line - Petrel Kayak Build - E4https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/stripping-keel-line-petrel-kayak-build-e4
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Stripping The Keel Line - Petrel Kayak Build - E4</span>
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<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:49</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>I use a new method for quickly trimming and fitting the keel or centerline of a strip built boat. I use a router running against a fence to trim off the excess length and make a consistent width slot that can be filled with a 1/4" wide strip.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Plans for the Petrel</a></p>
<p>I got the idea for this method from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ClearStreamCustomWaterCraft" title="clear stream custom watercraft">Dan Caouette</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mini Shoulder Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/64300-veritas-miniature-shoulder-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/p…</a></li>
<li>RoboBevel: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool">https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel…</a></li>
<li>Craftsman Cutting Sheers: <a href="https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW">https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW</a> Heavy Duty Hot Melt Glue Gun: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ">https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ</a></li>
<li>1" Spring Clamps: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy">https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy</a></li>
<li>Green high-stick Tape: <a href="https://amzn.to/317aLFV">https://amzn.to/317aLFV</a></li>
<li>Titebond Glue: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP">https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP</a> 4-oz</li>
<li>Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B">https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B</a> T-50</li>
<li>Stapler: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0">https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0</a></li>
<li>Bostitch Heavy Duty Staple Remover: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L">https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L</a> 9/16"</li>
<li>T-50 Staples: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw">https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body">hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks<br />
workshop I'm Nick Schade and this is<br />
episode 4 of building the petrel this is<br />
a strip built sea kayak it's one of my<br />
favorite designs to paddle I've got a<br />
strip built version as well as the<br />
stitch and glue version I've actually<br />
built a skin on frame version for a<br />
customer but I don't really have plans<br />
for that yet<br />
so in the last episode I stripped up the<br />
hull most of the way I got the bottom<br />
stripped halfway across and I sort of<br />
left a ragged edge this is fairly<br />
typical of how I have been stripping up<br />
the bottom of boats now but at what I'm<br />
going to be doing in this episode<br />
there's a little bit different from what<br />
I've done before it's an idea I got from<br />
Dan Cohen of clearstream custom<br />
watercraft he's a builder up in Berlin<br />
New Hampshire does really nice boats and<br />
I'd seen him in Facebook or Instagram<br />
post do something along the lines what<br />
I'm of what I'm doing here he stripped<br />
up both sides left a rough centerline<br />
and then it ran a router down the middle<br />
and that cleaned up that rough<br />
centerline and he was able to drop a<br />
strip of wood in between there to make a<br />
nice tight straight<br />
keya line strip and it really looked<br />
good and went really quickly I'm taking<br />
that idea and doing something a little<br />
bit different basically the same idea<br />
but to save a little bit of time on the<br />
fitting of that centerline the Kia line<br />
I've set up the fence right after doing<br />
the first side trim that first side<br />
straight now I have a space there that I<br />
can use to have a fairly rough<br />
centerline then I run the router again<br />
and end up with a precisely dimensioned<br />
width strip that I can drop right in<br />
there and the bottom is done it's really<br />
kind of achieved again I captured this<br />
video about a year ago and since then<br />
I've<br />
this a couple times in class on a canoe<br />
and a kayak and it's really kind of<br />
cheating I'm debating whether I should<br />
do it in class anymore because it's sort<br />
of a little bit too easy and doesn't<br />
give people a chance to learn some of<br />
the nuances of fitting strips together<br />
but that said if you don't want to deal<br />
with that fussy task of fitting strips<br />
together this is one way to avoid some<br />
of that as I mentioned in the last video<br />
I was having some audio problems I've<br />
now figured out what the problem is my<br />
little lavell ear mic the wires for that<br />
we're fraying and shorting out and<br />
creating a lot of static so I've placed<br />
an order for a new mic and I will be<br />
coming in shortly hopefully that'll<br />
clean up the sound but unfortunately<br />
it'll only clean up the new sound all of<br />
this video for this whole build was<br />
captured with that old mic and so<br />
there'll be times when I just have to<br />
cut to music because the grading of the<br />
shorting out wires was a little bit too<br />
much to handle so instead of hearing the<br />
natural background sounds I'll drop in a<br />
little music to make it a little less<br />
grading so with that said and without<br />
any further ado let's get right to it<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so I trimmed the center line by setting<br />
up the fence here and then running a<br />
router down that fence I transferred the<br />
center line of the strip's using little<br />
jig to take the center line here and<br />
Mark it on the outside<br />
I've got a few quarter inch diameter<br />
pattern bushing on the router and so I<br />
wanted to Center the router on that<br />
center line and to do that I measured<br />
out three eighths from the center line<br />
and put this fence along that<br />
three-eighths line I wanted to keep this<br />
fence level so I made little wedges to<br />
go onto the fence and glued those wedges<br />
down on top of some tape so I can peel<br />
them off without making a mess of the<br />
wood there's a few places where the tape<br />
and glue weren't quite strong enough so<br />
I ended up with some clamps there and<br />
then I just ran down that center line so<br />
right now I've got a straight edge here<br />
cut about an eighth of an inch from the<br />
center line I used a quarter inch<br />
diameter router bit centered on that<br />
center line so it's an eighth inch on<br />
each side I'm now going to fill up<br />
strips from the chine<br />
up to that center line but I'm not going<br />
to attempt to make a tight fit I'm just<br />
gonna make sure that I don't have a gap<br />
greater than the quarter inch so then<br />
I'll come back after it's all stripped<br />
up recut that center line with that same<br />
router and then I can just drop a<br />
quarter inch wide strip into that gap<br />
that's the plan I want to try and keep<br />
this fence in place while I do it so<br />
when I go to recut the center line a<br />
second time I don't have to be accurate<br />
and trying to replace that fence in the<br />
same place it's still in the same place<br />
and hopefully it'll stay there I might<br />
have a little bit of an issue at each<br />
end here or a sprung up a bit but<br />
hopefully I'll get it on the majority<br />
and there's some places here at the end<br />
where the fence wasn't close enough to<br />
the strips to actually cut all the way<br />
down so I'll just take a saw those<br />
and this area will get covered with the<br />
outer skin anyways so we'll see how it<br />
goes<br />
so to fit these strips in I'm just<br />
fitting them loosely but they do need a<br />
taper at the end in order to fit against<br />
the pre-existing strips so I just<br />
but this up against the end of the<br />
little point there mark where it hits<br />
the other strip on the other side then<br />
mark that taper and I'll just use my<br />
jackknife to quickly hack off that low<br />
point bring it right down to the line<br />
make the lines disappear<br />
just touch that shit see if it looks<br />
decent I just don't want any gaps<br />
greater than a quarter inch wide all<br />
right so I get that just nestled in<br />
there I'm gonna clamp this off to hold<br />
it in place and come back to this end<br />
here so if this end I'm just going to<br />
loosely gauge the length cut it off<br />
something like that<br />
mark that<br />
that off just do a quick dry fit and<br />
both ends that it fit at the far end let<br />
it sit back in here and staple it all<br />
home then grab the next strip<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
router didn't get all the way up to the<br />
stem here so I'm just going to use a<br />
little mini shoulder plane from my Robo<br />
bevel and see if I can just extend that<br />
a little bit farther I don't need to<br />
make it go all away I can have an out of<br />
stem come up here and that should take<br />
care of it<br />
but this role of bevels quarter inch<br />
wide just follow right down that groove<br />
and deepen it a little bit<br />
[Music]<br />
so with the cheetah strips I'm just<br />
following the existing strips and<br />
fitting in to the shear strip so the<br />
point of this is I think aesthetically<br />
it just looks better to have the strip's<br />
running closer to parallel to the water<br />
line instead of sweeping up too much if<br />
you have all the strips following this<br />
year it kind of starts to look like a<br />
banana and it just happens to be easier<br />
to fit into so I'm fitting this against<br />
the cove on the bottom and I'm going to<br />
be cutting away at this edge here and<br />
fitting that into the cove on the shear<br />
strip so on this edge that when I taper<br />
this back I will be able to just use a<br />
block plane to cut a little bead on<br />
there and make it fit tightly into that<br />
Cove so this these are just some of the<br />
cut offs from working on the bottom I'm<br />
going to take one that's more than long<br />
enough that way I can just slide it in<br />
to adjust for any mistakes<br />
with the micro bootlegger sport I was<br />
booked matching everything and if on<br />
this boat I were booked matching<br />
I'd want to end up with the patterns on<br />
this strip matching the strips on either<br />
side of it so in other words I'd want to<br />
have it fit and precisely a longitudinal<br />
orientation on the boat but here it's<br />
random color strips I just need to make<br />
it fit tight up in here so if it doesn't<br />
fit right I just keep on shaving it down<br />
and until it does so that might mean I<br />
push this a bit in but that's okay I've<br />
got plenty of room to do that<br />
and this first strip fitting in is<br />
always the hardest because it's the<br />
longest taper basically it tapers down<br />
to nothing up here and we want to make<br />
that nice tight all the way into there<br />
so coming from here where it's where the<br />
strip first hits the shear line is gonna<br />
be a long gradual taper so just putting<br />
that strip in there I'm gonna mark it<br />
right here that's where we want it to<br />
hit the other thing to think about is<br />
you don't you can always make it tighter<br />
by jamming it in or pushing this year<br />
strip up to the touch but we've got this<br />
fear strip but a nice fair curve we<br />
don't want to mess with that curve we<br />
want to keep the natural curvature of<br />
that and fit this strip to that and not<br />
depend too much on the flexibility of<br />
these strips to make those type joint so<br />
first thing I'm going to do is just mark<br />
out this taper and on this one since<br />
it's a long tape I'll take it over the<br />
bandsaw roughly cut it and then start<br />
playing away at it from after that I'll<br />
be able to just use a jack knife to cut<br />
everything down fit it in and as I get<br />
close and close to the tip it gets<br />
easier and easier because it tapers<br />
shorter instead of longer<br />
[Music]<br />
so with that I've got the bottom of the<br />
boat all stripped up if you have paid<br />
attention to the clock in the background<br />
of some of those time lapses you saw I<br />
was able to lay a strip like every five<br />
minutes or so really moving pretty<br />
quickly again unlike some of the<br />
previous builds where I was doing book<br />
matches and so forth here I'm just<br />
laying down random colored strips and<br />
putting them in quickly and since I had<br />
the cheat of that router trick I wasn't<br />
even doing precise fitting<br />
I'm just getting him loosely in place<br />
then using the router to make a nice<br />
tight fit this process the strip's went<br />
down really pretty quickly the total<br />
stripping time here was you know I<br />
didn't actually time it but four or five<br />
hours to get all the strip's on there<br />
including the cheater strips at each end<br />
so it went really pretty quickly so in<br />
the next episode we will be working on<br />
stripping up the deck I'm not sure how<br />
many episodes that's going to take I<br />
haven't looked at how much video I've<br />
got there but I'll plan to have that be<br />
one maybe two videos showing the process<br />
of stripping up the deck we'll see how<br />
long it takes to get it all on so until<br />
then if you'd like to support these<br />
videos but really the best way is go to<br />
my website if you're interested in<br />
building a boat buy a set of plans I've<br />
got plans for this boat as well as a<br />
bunch of other kayaks both strip built<br />
and stitch and glue I've got some canoes<br />
and some rowing boats these are all<br />
boats<br />
I've designed myself I'm somebody that<br />
likes to get out in the water in the<br />
small boat and so my specialty in both<br />
design is the small car tappable small<br />
boats and what I really like to do with<br />
that is get people like you interested<br />
in building your own boat and that's<br />
kind of the point of these videos is to<br />
share my experiences with building these<br />
boats and get you interested in doing it<br />
yourself because it's a really<br />
gratifying project there's really<br />
something special about being out on the<br />
water and a boat you've built yourself<br />
so if you'd like to support these videos<br />
again by plans if you want to directly<br />
support these videos they've got a<br />
patreon site where for a buck or two a<br />
month you can just chip into doing<br />
things like<br />
I need a new microphone microphones of<br />
80 200 bucks so your contribution to the<br />
patreon site helps pay for some of the<br />
expenses of making these videos I do<br />
them anyways but with your support it's<br />
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and the expense it takes for me to put<br />
these videos together and the more<br />
support I get the more capable I am of<br />
getting these videos out regularly on<br />
time again I captured this video about a<br />
year ago I've had so many other things<br />
taking higher priority that I've had to<br />
leave the production of the this video<br />
until I had the time for it and just<br />
other things are taking priority the<br />
more support I get from you the higher<br />
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otherwise if you don't want to spend any<br />
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coming out and until then thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling<br />
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Wed, 05 Feb 2020 21:49:58 +0000nick4162 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStarting the Tricky Bits - microBootlegger Sport - E17https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/starting-tricky-bits-microbootlegger
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Starting the Tricky Bits - microBootlegger Sport - E17</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:27</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Starting to fit the ends of strips</p>
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<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the "<a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/strip-built-sea-kayak" title="The Strip Built Sea Kayak">Read along in my Book</a></li>
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<p>Music: Ibiza Dream - Chris Haugen</p>
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<div class="panel-body">so once again there was no ice in the<br />
river and at time nice calm warning like<br />
getting out for paddle playing today is<br />
to start stripping up the second side of<br />
the bottom working up from the waterline<br />
to the chine line and hopefully he'll<br />
get all those tips from the waterline to<br />
the chine on and trim out the chine<br />
today we'll see how far we get first<br />
couple strips starting at the waterline<br />
will need to be fitted into the length<br />
of the kayak up above that well I'll be<br />
able to run a couple over long and then<br />
trim them back when I trim to the chine<br />
line one thing you may notice when I try<br />
to trim to a line such as a water line<br />
of the chine line of the keel line is I<br />
don't try and nail it the first time I<br />
can't I know enough about how I work to<br />
know that I'm just not that accurate so<br />
I try and ease in on it I'll mark the<br />
line where I want to cut then cut a<br />
little proud of it then trying through<br />
that line up and then once I got<br />
everything straight and good now I try<br />
and ease in exactly where I want the<br />
line by doing that I can get very<br />
accurate to the line it's not that it's<br />
all that critical that I'm accurate to<br />
the line but<br />
later on as we're trying to fit the<br />
strips it does become much more critical<br />
but then actually accurate to that line<br />
so I get a good tight fit so the idea of<br />
easing in on the line is something I do<br />
a lot I cut everything a little bit long<br />
give myself some room to screw up and<br />
hopefully by the time I get to where I<br />
want everything figured out<br />
[Music]<br />
when we left off at the water line here<br />
a few episodes ago we started just<br />
stripping on one side we left this<br />
unbelled so the first step here is going<br />
to be making sure the bevel here is<br />
correct then we'll start adding strips<br />
it's going to be different about this<br />
one is the strip that comes in on this<br />
side has to meet up right here with the<br />
existing strip on the other side first<br />
let's get to beveling that'll be done<br />
with the Robo belt as we get up into the<br />
tight quarters of the ends here the Robo<br />
bevel doesn't actually fit down tight<br />
against the forms so we can no longer<br />
use that up in the tight areas once we<br />
get past about here where the strips<br />
aren't interfering with the tool resting<br />
against the forms which should be fine<br />
up here in the end where the Robo bevel<br />
doesn't reach will resort to using the<br />
tied rabbet plane and we're going to try<br />
and hold the tool perpendicular to the<br />
form above it trying to shave this down<br />
so get a tight seam right in here and<br />
again a taxi<br />
so we've got the Belleville good now<br />
it's going grabbing the first trip for<br />
this side so the achieves the mirrored<br />
illusion that we're trying to get with<br />
the book matching we need to make sure<br />
that the length of these strips ends up<br />
at the same place so longitudinally we<br />
want the any grain on this new strip to<br />
match whatever grains happening on this<br />
strip so that means lengthwise we could<br />
adjust this so the same location on this<br />
strip corresponds to the same location<br />
on that strip so relative to the forms<br />
we see these marks here over here we've<br />
got similar marks we want to end up<br />
making these marks right here match up<br />
longitudinally with those marks there so<br />
bring it down here and now this line<br />
right here is right aligned with that<br />
line right there relative to the form<br />
this is where we want the strip to end<br />
up so I'm going to make some marks<br />
across here so between this strip and<br />
the existing strip so we can<br />
re-establish that alignment here's the<br />
mark that's on that side here's the<br />
Mark's other marks and so I just made a<br />
couple marks across here to be sure we<br />
have that aligned and I'll do it<br />
several locations down the length of the<br />
boat just to make sure it's good I'll<br />
test the dry fit of this all the way<br />
along the length that looks good<br />
let's trip back in place up here at the<br />
bow we've got this trip coming in from<br />
the other sides that's a mirror image of<br />
this one right there and in order to<br />
make this fit obviously we need to make<br />
it fit up against that so we want this<br />
snuck right down in between here and<br />
there so the first thing we want to do<br />
is just make sure we have an alignment<br />
mark up here where it's close to where<br />
we're working so I want those marks to<br />
line up right there down here at the<br />
stern we've got a little bit easier<br />
problem this strip is just going to run<br />
off<br />
p.m. and so we only need to fit one end<br />
and also looking at this this right here<br />
is where the chine line ended up when we<br />
trimmed it down from this side so the<br />
next strip up doesn't need to come down<br />
and fit with this one either if we just<br />
look at that line there there's second<br />
strip up from the waterline ends right<br />
in here someplace so if we make sure the<br />
next strip up on this side and in a<br />
similar location maybe a little farther<br />
just to be sure we know we'll be good<br />
and so we don't need to try and fit up<br />
against this center line up there yet<br />
but for this first strip we'll just run<br />
it off the end and so we only need to<br />
fit the bow in so it's only at the<br />
balland that we need to worry about the<br />
fit so again we want to end up with<br />
these marks lined up we could cut off<br />
anything that's excess here and we'll<br />
end up making a taper so what I like to<br />
do is just give myself some room to<br />
screw up so I'm gonna slide this whole<br />
thing back an inch or so then cut it off<br />
like there so the strips going to end up<br />
in here but we need to take the top off<br />
and we've got to put a bevel on it so<br />
this comes out to a bit of a point at<br />
this end it's about that wide and the<br />
taper comes back to about here so we can<br />
mark that taper now we'll cut off that<br />
excess material put on my apron so I<br />
have easy access to my apron plane now I<br />
want to take and just try and get close<br />
to that line there<br />
so this trips gonna be something like<br />
that but we have this bevel on here the<br />
strip is at a bit of an angle and this<br />
face there is vertical now if I pull<br />
this strip the new strip at<br />
approximately the angle it's going to<br />
need to be when it's done and I hold my<br />
plane at about vertically I've created<br />
the angle that I'm looking to have this<br />
mate so again with this held at this<br />
angle it's gonna meet up against a<br />
vertical surface so if it's going in at<br />
this angle and it's good to go against a<br />
vertical surface and I hold my plane<br />
vertically and now I mean hold keep this<br />
strip at the angle I'm looking for and<br />
keep the plane vertical and now plane<br />
away at the side until I get a sharp<br />
edge on that now we can try to fit<br />
it's not bad for a first effort I see<br />
we've got a little bit of gunk there<br />
holding things apart I'm gonna get in<br />
here clean out some of the glue so from<br />
this angle you can see it's a little bit<br />
tight at the tip or the toe a little bit<br />
loose at the heel here and the angle and<br />
it's held in here it's a little bit open<br />
at the top so again I'm gonna hold my<br />
plane a little bit open at the top and<br />
I'm gonna take my first strokes at the<br />
tip and then work back a little bit so<br />
I've since it was touching at the tip<br />
first I'm removing more material at the<br />
tip at the toe trying to maintain that<br />
same angle and till I get it<br />
cutting the full length of the bevel and<br />
we try to fit again that's quite nice a<br />
little open space below here and<br />
normally this would be taken care of<br />
with the roll bevel it's so tight up<br />
here that the Robo belleville doesn't<br />
work and even the side rabbet plane has<br />
trouble getting all the way into the<br />
ends there I could try and clean that<br />
out with a chisel but a little bit more<br />
accurate would be to do what we did<br />
along the chine line on the first side<br />
when we were trying to make our own hand<br />
bevel you know so freehand that bevel<br />
I'm seeing how wide that gap is on that<br />
side I'll try to match that gap like<br />
this<br />
little tricky doing this in the monitor<br />
I think I bail it the wrong way<br />
nope that's better it's not perfect yet<br />
but it's definitely tighter up in there<br />
so it needs a little bit more right out<br />
here at the end it looks good it's a<br />
little bit of overhang of this strip so<br />
it's casting a shadow there but it's<br />
pretty tight but the thing is back here<br />
I've got a discrepancy between the mark<br />
on the boat and the mark on the new<br />
strip so this whole strip needs to move<br />
forward about 3/4 of an inch<br />
this needs to go forward about 3/4 of an<br />
inch but we've established a good<br />
baseline of what this bevel is supposed<br />
to be so we're we don't need to figure<br />
that out we just need to try and<br />
maintain that taking our plane holding<br />
it flat against that surface do a full<br />
stroke another full stroke another full<br />
stroke this plane has to be sharp<br />
because we want to be cutting the same<br />
amount off this whole face from start to<br />
finish and if you've got a dull plane<br />
it'll skip over stuff and this tip will<br />
start to bend away and you won't be<br />
getting as a uniform thickness off that<br />
taper we want nice uniform shavings so<br />
that was just three passes now you look<br />
back here we're at about half an inch we<br />
still have a nice tight fit but there's<br />
only a half inch gap left there so we'll<br />
do the same again full length<br />
so three passes so I've taken off the<br />
thickness of the shaving three times<br />
that's pretty pretty good we're down to<br />
about a quarter-inch here even though I<br />
had to take off three quarters of an<br />
inch in length since this is on such a<br />
taper doing six strokes of the plane<br />
here moved it half an inch whatever the<br />
thickness of this shaving is times six<br />
was all it took to move this lengthwise<br />
by half an inch so we'll try another<br />
three passes it's almost there I'm<br />
starting to open up a little bit of a<br />
gap at the top it's very thin but we're<br />
going to try for a perfectly tight gap<br />
there see I'm opening up a slight gap<br />
right along that top edge so again lift<br />
my plane hold it tight against that<br />
surface tight flat against that surface<br />
then open it up just a skosh so it's<br />
tighter at the bottom than it is at the<br />
top take another pass likewise we've got<br />
like a sixteenth left to go I can get a<br />
little bit tighter<br />
one more<br />
there's really no gap up at this seam up<br />
there and you can make these line up<br />
there looks good and tight along this<br />
edge opening up a little bit on the<br />
bottom there so I'll start flat and then<br />
open it up a little bit that's pretty<br />
darn good<br />
so now if I clue it in place it should<br />
all end up starting out with this grain<br />
matching and if we start out at the<br />
right place the grain on this side<br />
should match the grain on that side<br />
pretty much exactly get the mark lined<br />
up and secure it in place no that's<br />
pretty nice<br />
so we will come through and put some hot<br />
milk loose stitches here so we can take<br />
the tape off and then we can take the<br />
clamps off and if we need to add a<br />
little bit more hot melt to glue the<br />
strips to the forms we'll do that and<br />
then we'll add the next strip<br />
so with the next strip placed up for a<br />
dry fit we're gonna want to end up<br />
making it a line like that back here at<br />
the stern I've got my reference lines<br />
and I'm also looking at the second strip<br />
up from the waterline second strip up<br />
from the water line from on this side<br />
ends right about there<br />
so if I mark it right there it should be<br />
plenty long enough to cover up to the<br />
chine cut and so we'll lop it off right<br />
there and so it fits in there and we<br />
don't need to worry about tapering this<br />
in that will just run free and there<br />
should be plenty of room there so up<br />
here at the bowel we want it to line up<br />
like that but I want to give myself a<br />
little room for error<br />
so I'll slide the whole strip back an<br />
inch or so and now it's going to end up<br />
getting cut off there at a point right<br />
there cut it off now if I hold this<br />
strip up here it comes to about this<br />
point so bring it back down to the point<br />
and if we mark that that's how long the<br />
tape is going to be so we can take our<br />
high-tech straightedge here never have a<br />
lack of straight edges when your strip<br />
building that's the taper we want well<br />
now take and get rid of the excess you<br />
know see there's easy stuff to cut<br />
there's no reason to bring this over to<br />
a bandsaw to cut it you know this<br />
jackknife I think my grandmother gave<br />
this to me when I was 16 it's made a lot<br />
of boats keep it sharp it works great<br />
and so I got that trimmed down and now<br />
this one again if we think about the<br />
angle it's going to fit in there<br />
something like that and we maintain that<br />
angle and again hold the block plane<br />
vertically we should end up<br />
with the shape it's just dropped right<br />
into that space so I'm not even<br />
bothering to go to the line yet I just<br />
want to see if their tips the more I<br />
leave here the more room for error I<br />
have so you know here's a first fit and<br />
it seems a little bit high on this edge<br />
it's overhanging a bit and so that<br />
usually indicates that I need to flatten<br />
the bevel this way a little bit so have<br />
it flat against the bevel like this and<br />
then I'm going to tip it up alright so<br />
that's a nice fit right there we're<br />
about an inch and a half in length<br />
how's money I'm getting a little gap in<br />
here open this up a little bit<br />
shave away at the bottom and that's a<br />
little bit better we'll tweak that a<br />
little bit more once we get it in there<br />
so again we've got about an inch and a<br />
half or inch and a quarter to go there<br />
so hold it flat against the surface that<br />
we've decided was a good tight fit and<br />
take full length strokes all the way<br />
down the length this tip so flexible<br />
we'll probably end up having to take a<br />
couple extra passes at the tip<br />
right the fits still good we've come<br />
down to about an inch here sometimes<br />
this little nipping that the and can be<br />
hard I just break it off I'm gonna work<br />
on this bevel a little bit on this side<br />
to close up that gap there tops of good<br />
fit side here we still have a little bit<br />
of a gap in back to the out here there<br />
are other three-quarters of an inch to<br />
go that's nice and tight top and bottom<br />
so we still have some length adjustment<br />
to do<br />
it's starting to open up a little bit<br />
along the top here you know the tip is a<br />
little bit low and back here it's a<br />
little bit tight so I'm going to take<br />
one pass that doesn't quite reach the<br />
tip one or two passes just about there<br />
get a 3/16 of an inch<br />
I think I'm gonna call that good now one<br />
thing to be aware of this is the second<br />
strip on this side and it ends right<br />
there you can see here's this was the<br />
line for trimming to the chine line and<br />
then this is the next strip after that<br />
so you have I have a narrow strip here<br />
as the second strip up from the<br />
waterline so what that indicates is this<br />
one's going to end up being narrower<br />
here so when I go to glue this I'm not<br />
going to glue it all the way up along<br />
this edge I'll only glue up to like<br />
there just to make sure it's glued in<br />
that area right there and to pull this<br />
tape as tight as I can to keep that seam<br />
as tight as we can get<br />
so again counting up from the water line<br />
one two three you can see that the third<br />
strip and somewhere up in here so we<br />
don't need to worry about this third<br />
strip over here one two three hitting<br />
here we can end it before that so if we<br />
ended up in here someplace<br />
we'll be golden we'll have plenty of<br />
room so as long as we end it someplace<br />
past here up there someplace we're good<br />
you remembering the sorting of the<br />
strips I had a circle on this side of<br />
the boat and so I'm making sure all the<br />
circles are still out on this side I<br />
didn't do my dry fit yet so I can see I<br />
need some Robo beveling but while I have<br />
the strip in hand let's just go ahead<br />
and cut this off to length so somewhere<br />
up in here down here at the stern it's<br />
in a couple forms forward so I'll take<br />
this and drop it off in there someplace<br />
up here where the Robo bevel is too big<br />
to fit in this space I need to end up<br />
doing a little hand beveling on this<br />
strip to get a tight fit right there so<br />
once again we're looking how wide is<br />
that gap and we hold the plane at a<br />
similar gap<br />
so this should be the last strip and<br />
I've got four strips up this side only<br />
four strips up this side and I was<br />
hoping to get this marked out and<br />
trimmed off before the end of the day<br />
but I'm running out of time so we'll get<br />
this one strip on and see how it looks<br />
all right that's it for today I'm gonna<br />
leave the tape on and the clamps on so<br />
I'm not going to bother with the hot and<br />
I'll clue<br />
make sure that's turned off and tomorrow<br />
we'll come back and trim that off<br />
through it up and start working across<br />
the bottom so that's all I got today I<br />
was hoping to get the chine done but<br />
believe this throwing up for tomorrow<br />
hopefully we'll get that done and then<br />
I'll start working on closing out the<br />
bottom<br />
stripping across from the chine to the<br />
Kia line that'll slow down a little bit<br />
just because I'm going to be fitting<br />
each end of the strips and so it has to<br />
be a little bit more precise I'm no<br />
longer just running strips off the end<br />
if you're enjoying this video please do<br />
all the likes of subscribe jazz support<br />
me on patreon I really appreciate it<br />
helps out a lot<br />
but until the next episode thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling<br />
[Music]</div>
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Wed, 05 Feb 2020 21:27:13 +0000nick4161 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com