My plastic gear is wore out in the windlass, same as Allen's, but while cleaning in there and looking for a solution to the water entry I found the issue with the soft wood of the tray that the roller is mounted to. Not a tough fix but it needs to be fixed. Maintaining the paint and the sealant on the edges, etc should keep it repaired once it is done.

My wife cleans the anchor locker this past weekend she let out all of the chain and cleaned the locker and washed the chain as she brought it back up I will have to take a closer look at the shelf but I have never noticed an issue in the past. I need to replace the waste vents so I will be in working in the area tomorrow I will have a look.

Your right I should have saved the box with the part number for the new one that was really dumb! The first pump I got was the exact pump but came with the wrong mount and there was no way to use the old one, the second kit bolted right on in a few minutes and works great!

So after talking to my trucks mechanic (who owns a boat as well) I took of the aftercooler caps so I can peak at the top. Seem pretty clean. Not taking the aftercoers appart but will just wash with Restor by fleetgaurd. I am going to wash the engines with restor as well and change the antifreeze.

John I am proude at you :-) good for you. I was going to replace the belts but when I took of the cover I found I have new belts. I only need to clean some black soot. never thought it should be such a long process to change the antifreeze. 1. Drain the old antifreeze.2. Fill up one gallon of restore and water3. Run the boat for one to two hours4. Drain the mixed water/restore5. Fill up with water.6. Run the engines for 5-10 minutes7. Drain the water and fill with new antifreeze.That will be probably 1/2 day if it goes smooth, next Saturday. I am not sure how to run the restore in the after coolers yet, just let it seat or what?Also ordered o rings and gaskets for heat exchangers. Going to wash and clean them as well.

Allen, the aftercoolers usually get blocked up on the bottom. You absolutely should have them serviced properly. It's a lot less expensive than a new engine.

+1 to what Hogan said.

You can make a pump system similar to what I did to circulate your choice of cleaning solution through it for an hour or so. But that will only do so much. It is good for in between full service of them.

Not giving up on doing the after-coolers a but i will inspect the bottom as well before taking them off. If the tops were any indication what so ever to how the bottom looks like then I think I am in reasonable shape. I agree with all that it is very important, my thoughts are always to do preventive maintenance and not wait for things to not work or break down.

I flushed Barnacle Buster backwards through mine. I did the heat exchanger first and then the aftercooler. It certainly put a lot of gunk and junk out. I wanted to take them off and have them done professionally this winter but my projects sort of got away from me this spring and I am way behind so it will wait until next fall until right before I winterize.

John I will pick you brain again on how you flushed them I would like to do mine as well.

BTW thank you all for anchor issue posts, I never had an issue with my anchor until these post started! Saturday I dropped my anchor I got a little closer to the shore then I had planned so I was going to pull it and reset but my chain got jammed and I could release or lift. I tried to tie off my chain so I could work on it and the wind pushed me the chain slipped and I almost lost the tip of my finger. I'm extremely lucky to get away with a bad bruise to the tip of my finger, it could have been much worse! I was able to free the twisted link and all is well.

It is pretty easy actually. I bought a fertilizer sprayer from harbor freight. It has a pump on it already and as a fertilizer pump can handle caustic stuff. I then used a series of hose adapters to get it to attach to the hoses on the heat exchanger and the aftercooler. Should do the trans oil cooler too. Silver lining from here on BE told me what to use.

Dave. I will make you a deal. Bring your boat down here and I will take a day off and do it for you. And I will show you how to build your own for the next year. Seriously though it is really easy to do. Just time consuming. A couple hours per heat exchanger and after cooler.

Edit: I forgot to mention you can also run it output to input on your ac units to clean them out too.

Guys,Make sure after you have replaced your coolant with distilled water that you test for PH and phosphates with Cummins fleetguard 3 way test strip (CC2602). Then add Cummins DCA4 supplement coolant additive. This prevents cavitation forming within the coolant that can cause pitting to the internal engine parts. I use this in my Volvo TAMD 74P's.

Allen, you really need a pump that can handle the phosphoric acid that is in the barnacle buster. And a pump the can run continuos for a couple hours. I can not say about your cummins but my heat exchanger is horizontal. I did plumb it to flush backwards. Same for the after cooler. I think I put in 2 gallons of barnacle buster concentrate a gallon of distilled water. Then flushed with 4 gallons of just distilled water. I switched out the solution per motor. At $60 a gallon BB is expensive.

I looked at harbor freight and did not see it any more. Northern tool has one though

Just ordered a Y adapter 2 30's to 1 50, 2 50 foot 30 amps cords but my boat really needs two 50 amps, I think I am the only one. Being we are going away next week and the marina we are going to already told me I am only getting one power line. Among all the other things I ordered in the last two weeks I just have to slow down a bit. I also have a mechanic coming to the boat on Wednesday to help me figure out why I don't get 2600 rpm per manufacturer data plate. I am sure I am going to drop a grand right there. For some reason I am only getting 2350 rpm in full power in neutral and 2250-2300 when running the boat. Both rpm gauges are reading the same. My thoughts are that me engine synchronizer is the problem but I am not sure. Hopefully it is not going to be too bad. So for right now I am adding your link to my favorits under after cooler and heat exchanger cleaning. :-)

Just found that in the Trojan manual book it say that my engine WOT should be 2800 rpm, top spread 31.5 mph or 27 knots. I don't think this is correct, just more confusing.

At most marinas it seems I have to use my y adapter to go from to 30a to my 50a but I am confused when you say you need to 50s. Do you have two 50 amp circuits?

I don't know the exact engine you have but I certainly would not go by the Trojan manual. There is so much wrong in my manual that it is not even worth reading as printed. If the data plate says 2600, I would be inclined to believe that. You should get the service manual for your specific motors. WOT and cruise speed would not be the same and the service manual will tell you exactly what it should be.

I know how you feel. Sometimes it seems like all I am ever doing is fixing something, modifying something, or replacing something. But I look at it this way. If I do it now and I do it right I should not have to do it again for a long time.

Allen, you are killing your engines at those RPMs. You should get 2750 at WOT. If you post your issues on Boatdiesel.com, you'll get answers for free. Tony Athens there is an expert on Cummins, I guarantee you he will walk you through the process of getting you the correct RPM.

The speed number is probably with an empty boat, no fuel or water... I can get close to that number, but I never run at WOT.

Yes John, I have two 50 amps circuits. Not sure why they did it this way. I don't have any electrical need that is different then what you guys have, maybe the washer dryer but Dave has that as well. I will take pictures and post. Last year I had an adapter and connected 2 30 amps of which showed signed of over heating in the connection to the adapter. Mike I truly believe it is some technical issue related to reading the correct rpm and I think the engines do get 2600 rpm. Other wise I don't think I would be able to run at 24.5-25 knots. Take of my swim platform and I will probably run at 30 knots :-). The frame for hydraulics seat too low and it looks like I am towing an anchor in the back, my swim platform and dink get washed in long runs. I hope tomorrow or Thursday the mechanic will be able to figure the rpm issue out and if not I will post on boat diesle. Thank you.

That is strange Allen. What kind of Benny do you have? I am curious as to how that is wired to provide two 50A circuits as well. I only have two circuits but they are both with one cord, a 50amp 125/250v. Essentially two 25A circuits I guess when it is plugged in at a 50A connection. When I use the splitter to combine to 30A connection I guess I get 30A per side. At any rate one circuit is the AC and the other is everyting else. With both AC running it will jump just above 15 when one cycles on but otherwise holds steady around 10-12. On the other side with the water heater, stove, refer and microwave plus lights I will barely get to 15. With reasonable power management I think I could get away with just one 30A leg for the whole system.

I was just thinking, two and half years ago when I bought this boat I was trying to figure out how one cord had two circuits. LOL

Does the Trojan manual make reference to your motors or does it simply same the motors should do 2800 RPM and reach 31.5 MPH? These numbers are dead on for my motors so it might be that they didn't update the manual to reflect your motors, I now John has stated many times the there are many mistakes in his manuals and everything seems to refer to my model. This said I too am concerned about the lack of RPMs of your motors I really hope this mechanic can resolve this for you and it's not a small fortune to correct. Hogan is dead on as to the damage this can be causing if not correct. What have you been cruising at RPMs and what is your current max?

I'm not sure if I have mentioned this but I finally had time to bring my boat back to my canvas guy and I think he has completely stopped my leaks. We sprayed the top with a hose and I didn't got so much as a drop come in. It didn't take much to correct he added extension to the track that holds the top to the arch this extension acts as a gutter and pushes the water around to the side of the arch and it runs outside. He also added a second piece of this same track in the corner of the arch were the water pools this piece dams the water and forces it to run of the rear of the arch in the water runs off the down the rear canvas. The entire repair take maybe two hours and this included adding an extra snap that I felt it needed and freeing up the first two inches of one of my zippers making it much easier to start and open. At this point I'm very happy with the new top! Not so happy with the marina where I had the work done but that's another story, I not sure why anybody would want to stay there!

That is strange Allen. What kind of Benny do you have? I am curious as to how that is wired to provide two 50A circuits as well. I only have two circuits but they are both with one cord, a 50amp 125/250v. Essentially two 25A circuits I guess when it is plugged in at a 50A connection. When I use the splitter to combine to 30A connection I guess I get 30A per side. At any rate one circuit is the AC and the other is everyting else. With both AC running it will jump just above 15 when one cycles on but otherwise holds steady around 10-12. On the other side with the water heater, stove, refer and microwave plus lights I will barely get to 15. With reasonable power management I think I could get away with just one 30A leg for the whole system.

I was just thinking, two and half years ago when I bought this boat I was trying to figure out how one cord had two circuits. LOL

I have the Kohler 9EOZ. I get the same numbers as you get on the board, never more than 15-18 so that is why I think I might be just fine with 2 30's. the previous owner had the boat powered like that.go figure. it always makes me think about all the little differences between the boats and why they made changes from one to another!

Dave the numbers I posted were on the Trojan manual book specifically with the 450C engines but I agree with Mike, its like believing a car dealer when they tell you how great the fuel consumption is on a hummer :-)

Mike I listen to you the first time :-) I am on boat diesel and I did learn a lot. with out Tony's posts about the after coolers and heat exchangers I would never dare touching them, I still think that I need help with figuring if it is the gouges or the engine sync. if he cant resolve this issue then I will have to read/post on boat diesel or maybe even easier get my dad over.

Allen, you are killing your engines at those RPMs. You should get 2750 at WOT. If you post your issues on Boatdiesel.com, you'll get answers for free. Tony Athens there is an expert on Cummins, I guarantee you he will walk you through the process of getting you the correct RPM.

The speed number is probably with an empty boat, no fuel or water... I can get close to that number, but I never run at WOT.

Tony Athens is the man when it comes to all things with marine diesels!He is a great guy and has a wealth of accurate information. If I ever re-power or get a boat with diesels I will once again consult with Tony.Bill

Allen, you are killing your engines at those RPMs. You should get 2750 at WOT. If you post your issues on Boatdiesel.com, you'll get answers for free. Tony Athens there is an expert on Cummins, I guarantee you he will walk you through the process of getting you the correct RPM.

The speed number is probably with an empty boat, no fuel or water... I can get close to that number, but I never run at WOT.

Tony Athens is the man when it comes to all things with marine diesels!He is a great guy and has a wealth of accurate information. If I ever re-power or get a boat with diesels I will once again consult with Tony.Bill

So first update. Had a mechanic on board today. Wasn't on the boat my self unfortunatly. Engines are fine, don't have rpm numbers at this point. As suspected He think it is my gauges. I happened to have two spare but the mechanic is saying there is one little differance in conectivity between old and new so he will research and get back to me.

The reason I said that Allen is that if he had a tach, hand held or otherwise, he would be able to give you a definitive answer on the tachs or if it was a mechanical problem.

I used that same method to determine I had an issue with my tachs not giving accurate info. What I have not determined yet is if it is the tachs or the wiring to them. At any rate using the hand held I knew right away. If he is just going on his feeling that your hitting WOT and your going to replace the gauges to see, you have a 50/50 shot of it being the solution or having spent money for nothing.

Sorry I didn't made it clear. Yes he did had the tach, not sure if it was hand held or electronic. The reason I am not sure what it was reading I was communicating with the office and they with the mechanic. Tomorrow he will let me know what the reading was. I am considering having them install a fuel flow system while they are at it. I agree I already made the mistake trusting a mechanic that believed the engine sounded like at the right RPM. Another HUGE mistake I made was not insisting to have the engines service record. I have no idea what they did or didn't do.

John it was great to meet you yesterday afternoon.Mike the Cummings records will only show any warranty or house work done by them. It might not have the owners records which could be revealing.Allen it sounds like you are on the right road and your engines are fine. That has to be comforting.Bill

John it was great to meet you yesterday afternoon.Mike the Cummings records will only show any warranty or house work done by them. It might not have the owners records which could be revealing.Allen it sounds like you are on the right road and your engines are fine. That has to be comforting.Bill

Thanks Bill. When I bought the Boat the engines only had 210 hours or so, the generator had 165. I was very comfortable with what wasn't working well like the RPM and Radar which after not working for 10 years I fixed by replacing a 5 amp fuse. The boat was up in MI in Lake ST Clair, one owner low hours and little wear and tear. I am confident the RPM issue is technical not mechanical. But as Dave and Mike said had to be higher priority which it wasn't really. But still I am relived :-)

The only difference that I see is that your battery charger is on the side with the AC. My battery charger is controlled with the switch that says cockpit accesories. Also, my vacuum which is under the sink is on the receptacle circuit. Leaving the bottom one as a spare. I like that and I think I will make that change as I do have spare on the AC side ciruit.

Something I do not understand is that there are also a set of switches in the the cockpit for some of these items and both have to be on. The battery charger is one of them. I do not see the need or a reason for the duplicate switches. I also have two switches that say battery charger in the cockpit seperate from those the two cockpit acc. switches that have to be on for the battery charger to work. I have turned them on and off and can not see that they do anything except light the on indicator light. And I have tried to decipher from the owners manual what and why but I lost my secret decoder ring so that is a no go. If it would not cost so damn much I would yank all of the wiring and have it redone. It is one thing on these boats that certainly leaves a lot to be desired.

One other thing. I marked my blower for the genset with an on/off sticker. I had twice left it on and drained the battery. Second time I had to replace the battery as it would no longer hold a charge. I figured I did not need to do that again.

It was good to finally meet you to Bill. Also thanks for the transducer unit. I think it will work perfectly. Now I just need the weather to clear up a couple days. I hope on your next trip down here I can buy you dinner or lunch.

John what a great idea :-) sticker is being made as we speak. just heard from the shop office. the mechanic got the engines to 2600 but it wasn't full load so they are very comfortable that the engines would have been at 2750-2800 at WOT. They think my Tachs are off by 350-400 RPM. They suggest I should just try to calibrate the tachs and not replace them.

Many years I had the opposite problem with my fathers boat we could never understand why the boat was slow and how it was so efficient we finally realized the tachs were off I used a portable tach and adjusted the ones at the helm. With the access he had on that boat it only took a few minutes to adjust.

I wish it was as simple as an adjustment for me. Mine stick and jump around. Especially when cold. Now that I have the transducer from Bill and I think all the other parts I need I am hoping to wrap that project up this weekend. New gauges, new chart plotter and new sounder.

I am planning to try and install my gauges sometime before the 4 of July, if I make it that is. Based on the mechanic there is some difference in connectivity but I haven't seen anything. Hopefully can get it done.