We have a dilemma with our panel conversion. How have folks managed the upper louvers so that water and air doesn’t get in? The link shows a picture of where we are at.

Thanks

Tim
http://www.geocities.com/opfalcons/images/Louver.jpg

purplepeopleeater

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:13 pm

Kinda o/t, but whats the deal with the fiberglass insulation? :D

I'm changing my bus back to a panel

before:

after:

timmyE

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:24 pm

Is that wrong? The guy doing the work is putting it in. It was a camper conversion before he bought it but most of the interior was gone when he bought it. What does one usually put in for insulation?

Tim

Birdmanhere

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:30 pm

you should try dynamat or a similar insulation material in in.
That pink crap is just going to soak up water and moisture and cause it to rot from the inside out over time.

Birdmanhere

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:32 pm

ohh and to your original question I think people have used a tarboard type material to seal off the vents, but not sure..

purplepeopleeater

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:32 pm

That was what I was going to mention (water issues) you'll be sorry.

timmyE

Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:57 pm

So . . . there is still a threat of water leaking in even if the vents are sealed?... I'm beginning to become concerned.

KrisBalfe

Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:13 pm

Condensation...

purplepeopleeater

Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:13 pm

that would help with the vent area, you should be more worried about humidity inside the bus...that insulation is meant for an area that can breathe. and your bus cannot with that on it.

rip it out and stuff it in your attic no loss :!:

Dynamat, is spendy....do some searching on the internet for auto insulation.

Some guys use that tar based roof patch kits that homedopt sells. I'm going to try some above the engine compartment in mine.

iveedubbin

Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:56 pm

This i the stuff I used for sound deadening in the SV2s club bus. Made a huge difference.
eDead

VWAdam

Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:00 pm

I have only had mine leak (innie vents) while in a very very hard rain, so bad that I had to pull over.

SCZ9-1-1

Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:43 am

i have camper conversion and the original insulation on mine was foam rubber. On the left side the vents were left open and blew fresh air into the cabinet that was behind the closet. On the right side there was a hole cut in the panelling where the vent is and it let fresh air in as well. I have panelling covering them and usually only get water coming in during a very hard hard rain while driving or when i point the hose in the direction of the vents when washing the van. The r13 fiberglass insulation is a bad bad bad idea. Definitely use dynamat to deaden the noise.

bill may

Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:32 am

a walkthru panel does not have the upper vents. the non walkthru panels had a divider with a window to seperate the front from rear compartments. i would remove the vents and that pink fiberglass insulation. i also used e-dead in my panel on the roof.

slow36hp

Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:32 am

i have a set of vinyl magnets i use to cover mine. definately ditch the fiberglass. besides rotting the bus unless sealed (further rotting the bus) it creates a health hazard inside the vehicle.

wjr3

Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:13 pm

Take a look at this link: http://www.aircooledtech.com/camper_interior/

I used the same insulation on my bus with very good luck. No moisture retention either. I used Tyvec material over the vents and do not get any leaking. I agree, I would loose the fiberglass insulation.

cdennisg

Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:49 pm

slow36hp wrote: i have a set of vinyl magnets i use to cover mine. definately ditch the fiberglass. besides rotting the bus unless sealed (further rotting the bus) it creates a health hazard inside the vehicle.

The fiberglass will only be a health hazard if it gets moldy or is being constantly disturbed somehow. If left alone, it is essentially inert. Whatever amount of formaldehyde was in it has outgassed by now. But it should be left to insulating house, not buses.

timmyE

Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:46 pm

Well.... I believe you guys made a good case, so out goes the pink stuff . . . the Dynamat is a bit pricey. I found some here the price is right, but it takes 4 to 7 days to ship and that doesn't fit my time line. The one I'm leaning towards is Fatmat, has anyone heard of this? it's 80 mils thick and my total cost would be just under $200.00 and it includes all the tools for installation.

My only concern with the airbubble insulation is how does that work on the floor underneath my z bed. will it "pop" under the weight? for example, was there not any insulation on the floor area of this picture? Also my wife is curious on the noise reduction capabilities of this material.

P.S. Thanks for the input to the original question.... even though saving me from future problems is also most appreciated.

Tim

Birdmanhere

Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:57 pm

timmyE wrote: The one I'm leaning towards is Fatmat, has anyone heard of this? it's 80 mils thick and my total cost would be just under $200.00
I have used both fatmat and dynamat in two different VWs
Used the dynamat in my bug and fat mat in my bus.
Both are essentially the same, I would go for the fatmat if I was to do it again, the price is right.