Washington Heights.

Our little Manhattan apartment is way, way uptown—further up than even the Upper West Side and Harlem—in a neighborhood that, depending on who you talk to, might technically be part of Hudson Heights or Inwood, but is most often considered to be Washington Heights.

(Fun fact: Our neighborhood in Newburgh is also called Washington Heights. Crazy! That George Washington sure liked high places overlooking the Hudson, didn’t he? Well, yeah, okay, I guess that makes sense now that I say it out loud…)

I’m not sure I’d ever even heard of Washington Heights until we started looking for a pied-à-terre, but once we’d been up here and done some research, it just made so much sense:

1. The rent is cheap. You can get a studio up here for $1000-1200, 1BR for $1200-1300, 2BR for $1300-1700. And the apartments are HUGE! We were kind of astonished by how spacious the rentals are, especially in the pre-war buildings where the walls haven’t been moved all over the place.

2. It’s dog-friendly. Everyone has a dog up in WH. Even big dogs! The landlords seem to be very lax about pets in general. I like that.

3. It’s quiet and pretty. Unless you’re living right on Broadway with an apartment over a nightclub, it’s pretty much dead silent after 8:00 PM. I can hear dogs barking from miles away in the middle of the night. I can see the stars at night, too!! And there are lots of trees.

4. It’s close to the George Washington Bridge. This is essential if you regularly leave the city to go upstate like we do. Our proximity to the GWB means that we can be at our house in just over an hour, door to door.

5. Parking is not insanely expensive. Yes, we use our car to go back and forth between the house and the apartment, because Metro-North is REALLY EXPENSIVE. It’s cheaper to just pay for a monthly space in the garage around the corner. (We would lose our minds trying to deal with street parking. It’s impossible.)

6. Fort Tryon Park. I can’t say enough how amazing it is to have this place for a back yard (well, front yard, actually—our window overlooks the east side of the park). Fort Tryon Park is just incredibly beautiful, with hills and indigenous rocks and fabulous landscaping and secret paths and tiny old buildings and steep staircases everywhere…all of it leading up to perfectly clear, unblocked views of the Hudson River and Palisades (and you know how I feel about the Hudson River). PLUS! The Cloisters! The Cloisters are in Fort Tryon Park! How amazing is that?!

7. It’s easily accessible to the rest of the island. I walk half a block to the subway, and I can be in midtown in about 35 minutes. This was top priority, obviously, since our whole purpose in renting the apartment was to ease the stress of a long commute on late nights or early mornings. It’s made a huge difference. Evan works downtown so it’s a bit longer for him, but still manageable.

The only real downside to the neighborhood is that there is a serious lack of places to hang out, get coffee, eat dinner, especially if you eat vegan. There are definitely mornings when I am DYING for a bagel or an iced coffee, but there’s nowhere around to go. It’s the same story at night—if we want to go out for dinner, we inevitably wind up going to another part of the city. There aren’t really any cute shops, either, but I don’t care about that. This is New York City. That’s what the subway is for.

We picked the right spot to get a little place, for sure. I feel like I discovered a secret land up in Washington Heights. It may not be “cool”, but neither are we…it’s a perfect fit.

So many people don’t know about or dismiss your lovely area of Manhattan. I used to have friends who lived there, & I always loved visiting. For many years I lived in Morningside Heights & I would take the M4 bus to front door of the Cloisters, spend a couple of hours there, & enjoy the park. I’m so happy you’ve found such a good setup–& that you can hop the subway for your vegan meals!

Washington Heights represent! My husband and I lived there for about 4 months while I was doing an internship. 193rd Street! I still know a lot of people who live in Inwood, though we were definitely in Washington Heights. (We lived in that little corner apartment building at Fairview and Broadway Terrace. At the time there was some graffiti on the sidewalk outside our apartment that said “If you’re not with us F U”. A great thing to see every morning.) Anyway, I love these photos and I love that you’re in Washington Heights. It’s a great little place, even though it’s not on the map. ;)

heh. i’d been wondering how you managed to find an apartment so cheap! too bad my building in riverdale in doesn’t allow dogs. i’d rent it to you in a heartbeat, and you’d get to newburgh even faster (tappan zee is 20 minutes from riverdale)!

(by the way, if you’re ever tempted to try the restaurant inside ft. tryon park, take a pass! poor service, lousy food– only claim to fame is that bette midler eats there often.)

I lived there for about 4 years and loved loved LOVED that neighborhood. Hubby and I really miss it. Have you been to Next Door on 187th — they’ve usually got some vegan offerings on their menu, no? (And tasty cocktails, too.) There’s a bagel place off of 168th (and B’way?) near Coogan’s, I think. You can also take the car across the GWB and go SOUTH and get to a Whole Foods in about 15 minutes or less. Food aside — did you know that Bennet Park is the highest point in Manhattan? And have you checked out the Pumpkin House? (http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/14/garden/14pumpkin.html) Sorry . . . so many cool things up there and I really do miss it a lot . . .

We’ve been to the Paramus Whole Foods, but we usually do our grocery shopping up in Newburgh. And I love bagels, but I’m not traveling 25 blocks for one in the morning. ;)

RachelNov 16, 20104:00 pm

I was so excited to see – and recognize – all of your photos, as I am a fellow resident of Washington Heights! My husband and I have been living here for over 4 years (Bennett Avenue), and we picked it for its affordability. Neither of us particularly love NYC (hoping to leave soon!), and there are other places in the city I definitely would have preferred, but the neighborhood has grown on me. It’s actually quaint, especially in the streets closest to the Hudson, and just taking walks around there and into the park can be truly peaceful. I’m glad we share the neighborhood!

I actually LOVE hanging out in the Heights. My husband is Dominican and anytime he wants some home food that I can’t make, we go hang out there. When I was single we were up in the heights partying in many parties in apartments, basements- you name it. It can be a bit over crowded, but there are a lot of things popping up around the neighborhood that are pretty awesome. You should try the many smoothie places around. Many offer soy milk. And, if you were willing to eat cheese sometime, try a cachapa! http://cachapasymasnyc.com/menu.html

All over WH. We went to a place called Fruitopia that usually has a line out the door for smoothies and shakes. It’s on W. 207th b/w 10 Ave. and Post Ave. They have fresh fruits. It’s yum. And to add soy milk is not extra.

The Cachapas could be eaten w/veggies (you have to ask for it), or made as a sandwich w/tostones with veggies also. It’s fried sweet corn. It takes good however you eat it.

Oh…see, I’m in a completely different part of the neighborhood. I’m in the “valley” — all the way over by southeast end of Fort Tryon Park. Since this is really just a nighttime “crash pad” for us, we don’t really do any daytime exploring beyond the immediate area.

The problem with foods like cachapas isn’t just the “topping”, unfortunately, it’s the actual “cake” itself. The batter is made with egg or milk (or both), and they are typically fried in butter. I know these things don’t occur to people who don’t have dietary restrictions, but even everyday things like pancakes and waffles are out of the picture for vegans unless it’s specifically and intentionally made to be vegan. There are milk and egg by-products in so many foods.

haha, i love your description of washington heights!! from the looks of your photos I think i was shooting a video in your building last week! your side of the heights is definitely quiet and pretty and neighborhoody. my side (171st and audubon) is crazy and loud and dominican. Probably my favorite part of the Heights is that it is 2 sides of a crazy coin!

I live in the Bronx because my boyfriend works in CT and I work in Manhattan (so it’s kind of a halfway point) but if I could live anywhere in the city I might pick Inwood. I’m not sure exactly why but I really like it there, probably for many of the same reasons you site in your post.

I know you’re not in Inwood exactly but you should check out the Indian Road Cafe, which is at W 218th and Indian Road (fun fact: Indian Road is the only “road” in Manhattan). Probably not right around the corner, but pretty close.

omg this is why i dont miss new york sometimes. i live in a one bedroom (well the living room and bedroom is two rooms-open space. 525$.
and also, is fritz wearing a buddy-belt? its confortable? i bought one for constance but it gave her the worst armpit blisters ever seen in two days, even though it looked very well adjusted. i thought the leather seemed very hard.

Oh, that’s so sad that Constance got blisters!! :( Fritz and Bruno have both had Buddy Belts for about a year now, and they seem more comfortable in them than they have in any other harness. Dogs are all such different shapes, though! I know it’s hard to find just the right thing.

yeah…. and the debate is back on now… she has been in this phase (the naked phase) where anything *anything* on her is annoying. (she is even trying to take her coller off constantly…) and as soon as she takes harnesses off she starts chewing the little plastic closing thingy to close it at the back…
and, therefore, 2 harnesses later…. im considering buying a buddy belt back. the closing devise is medal and she would not be able to destroy it i think..
god. this harness situation is getting out of hand! :l

Paule, what size would she need? I ask because I’m on the verge of ordering new Buddy Belts for Fritz and Bruno since they’ve both lost weight this year (this is a GOOD thing!) and their harnesses are too large. I think I have a size 4 (tan) and 5 (black), but I’d have to check for sure later tonight. (I may be able to use Fritz’s for Bruno, and just buy one smaller for Fritz…)

Let me know! No reason for you to buy a new one if I’ll have a spare that could work for Constance!

i think i live about a block away from you, and am strict vegetarian, though not fully vegan anymore.

there are a couple of places on nagle avenue that have some nice vegan options; wr cafe is good for salads and coffee. there is another place whose name escapes me now, but it is a little past the y, on the west side of the street.

next door and 107 west have vegan options, they are off ft wash on 187.

kismat is the indian place on fort wash, around the corner from the others. i have found them to be food about letting us know what foods contain stocks or butter. food is decent.

there is a thai place on 181 that has vegan options too.

i have eaten at a few of the other places on 181, and there are definitely vegan options to be had there; 181 cabrini has great brusel sprouts in chili caramel sauce,and some other vegan sides, they used to have a good bean chilli, but im not sure if they still have it. nice salads though.

there is another place on 181 that has pretty good middle eastern food.

then on broadway, towards 207 there are a couple of restaurants with vegan options too.

indian road is a great place to have sunday brunch if you get a nice day, we go there a lot in the summer, good coffee and bagels.

Love the Pacman stairs. We have restored vintage pinball & video game machines at work and I played pacman (for the first time in about 20 years!) last week. It was so fun (and a bit stressful too).
-J

I was raised in Washington Heights! I love that neighborhood! I unfortunately lived right off Broadway and could hear the M5 bus. I knew schedule by heart because of all the noise each bus would make right in front of my bedroom window.

I’m a brand new reader, and am slowly working my way forward in time from the very beginning…savoring your awesome combo of decor, style, demolition and puppies! But I have to just jump to the future right now and say I LOVE WASHINGTON HEIGHTS! It’s my hood, my haven and my home. I totally giggled like a schoolgirl when I saw the pacmen on the stairs. I guess I live in The Valley too, though I never knew it was called that. I just love being able to see the Hudson everyday as I walk home from the train. It brings me happiness. Also, hearing the screaming schoolchildren at recess makes me smile, as does the awesome quiet when they leave. Hopefully these things will never get old.

Wow, sounds cool although I would still protest $1000 for a studio being ridiculously expensive (and I say this even though I live in the Boston area, which is known for its $300k parking spaces, ugh). Such a beautiful area though! I especially love the last photo – Pacman!

I’m curious how often you spend in your apartment versus your house. I’d be so tempted to stay there every single day just for the commute (I’m so lazy), so if I were in your situation I’d never be in the house.

You would be hard-pressed to find a studio apartment anywhere in New York City for less than $1000. This is one of the most expensive cities in the world! It might be possible in some of the far outer-reaches of Brooklyn that have horrifyingly long commute times.

If you consider that small studio apartments in midtown and lower Manhattan can run closer to $1700-2500, it really is quite a deal uptown. It’s all relative.

VanessaNov 17, 201010:58 am

Hooray for Washington Heights. My friends live at the bottom of “the only hill in Manhattan” in an apartment on Riverside Drive, right next to where the retaining wall came down onto the Henry Hudson Pkwy several years ago. The on-ramp to the pwky was closed for several years so it felt like they lived on a dead end street. I loved crashing on her couch; the picture window opened right up on the GW Bridge. What an awesome sight to wake up to in the morning.

Street parking is awful! We always allot an extra 30 mins. to find parking if we drive when we visit them.

I’m so happy you mentioned The Cloisters. It was the only spot in New York where I completely forgot I was on an island with millions of other people. It really transforms you to another world. What a great spotlight on an affordable and cool area of the city!

I love NYC but had to leave because the quality of life sucks if you’re not making 6 digits (this coming from a native NYCer). We lived in a one bedroom in The Bronx (West Farms). We were paying $750 after 9 years there. We recently relocated to a 1bd that is double the size of our last place…with a gym, security, parking, pool, tennis courts etc for $1000 a month in Miami. I miss NYC but can’t imagine going back and cramming ourselves into a studio for the same price. :/

I know very few people here who make 6 digits, actually. I know I don’t…not even close. The median income in New York City is $50k.

Of course I agree that it’s expensive here, but I completely disagree that the quality of life “sucks”. It’s a different kind of life, to be sure, and probably not one for someone who wants things like swimming pools and tennis courts included in the price of rent. I don’t say that to be dismissive of your lifestyle, but just to counter that as much as you wouldn’t want to come back here, in a million years I can’t imagine wanting to live anywhere other than the NYC area—even if the rent were free.

New York City’s “amenities” come in the form of the parks, the museums, the fashion, the art, the culture, the architecture, the people, the food—everything that makes NYC what it is. The cost of living here includes all of that, too—not just the space you sleep in.

I agree on some points. Yes, the median income is about $50K but those who live in nicer areas are either living with a roommate or have an income closer to 6 digits.

There are aspects of NYC that you can not get anywhere else. As an artist, I miss easy access to museums and galleries (although Miami has a decent art scene). What sucked for me was the 1.5 hour commutes (I know it doesn’t rival yours but it is draining to have to stand in a crammed a car for so long), terrible living conditions (my area horribly declined while we were living there), the winters (I’m definitely a warm weather gal), the parking, crowds of rude people everywhere and filthy living conditions that everyone seems to ignore…just to name a few.

I love NYC but people need to understand that it is not for everyone and is not the only city that offers a fun, entertaining lifestyle. We lucked out with the amenities, but it was definitely not the reason we left our home town and families behind.

I lived in Hamilton Heights when I lived in NYC and really liked it. Yes, totally not a “fashionable” place to live, but it was absolutely conveniently located and my ex- and I only paid $1,400 for a 2BR apartment (this was 2005-2007). I pay around that now for a 1BR in San Jose!

love the blog! we have a house in beacon and just let go of our apt in the west village. we are looking for an apt in washington heights for all of the reasons you wrote about in your post! just wondering if you have any good tips for apt hunting in the area – thanks!

I hope you still read comments on old posts! I’m a big fan of your blog, and have to leave your other favorite area (Carroll Gardens) for a much less expensive pad. I used to live in Hamilton Heights, and don’t want to go further out into Brooklyn, so am contemplating WH. So many of my friends (all but about 4) live in Brooklyn…how do you feel about the distance between CG and WH? And if your realtor is still in the biz, I’d love his information! Thanks!

Heather, I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking. Are you wondering how long it takes to get from Washington Heights to Carroll Gardens? If so, I’d estimate somewhere around an hour, maybe a little longer. I’ve never made that trip before (I very seldom go to Brooklyn—I did live in Cobble Hill for a while, but that was many years ago and long before getting the place in Washington Heights), so that’s just a guess.

HeatherOct 13, 20116:17 pm

Ah, if you don’t make the trip, then my question is moot. (I’ll be leaving many, many friends behind in Carroll Gardens.) Any tips for apt hunting are welcome!

Hi Anna, my husband and I are getting ready to move to Wash Heights or Inwood from San Francisco (I’m from Long Island) and we are so grateful for this post because it inspired us to check out your hood last time we were in NY. Did you find your place on cl, or do you have any local tips on finding a place? Thanks so much!