Would be great help to have a checklist here (couldn't locate one yet) on *optimizing buffer usage* parameters(did i read somewhere about 'buffer doubling' or similar..? my screen says not enough memory "109+2048, would need 128" minimum) and similar to get max. data write values. Altho my cam's benchmarks check shows good basic write >70values,RAW recordings don't appear to be reliably homogenous - or am i missing something basic...??

Hi to all! Firstly i'am a new member so i wanted to thank all the magic lantern team for their outstanding work.I follow this topic from the first page and the developement of ML on the 5DIII and the project progresses very quickly.I registered on the site now because I wanted to ask for more information about overexpose the image of raw video recording. Do I only overexpose the image serving me the apperture or what? for example, for highlights recovery is impossible to f2.8 at day with the sun at iso 100 and shutter 1/47 24 FPS?sorry for my bad English... thank in advance for your help.And again thank you for all efforts of the devs.

How it works:- it also crops the source raw stream, hoping that it will reduce the DMA load, resulting in higher write speeds- limitation: I only know how to crop it on the right edge, so for maximum effect, I had to move the cropping window to the far left. That's why the menu option is called "Framing: Force Left".- I expect it to have maximum effect in 5x crop mode (where the source stream is ~3750x1350 on 5D3)- You can combine it with hacked preview mode (which now has grayscale preview, done with CPU to keep DMA free)- for 5x zoom, move the focus window a few steps to the right; that way, the recording window will be very close to the center of frame.

Also, ML preview is now zoomed, so it should help at lower resolutions.

for example, for highlights recovery is impossible to f2.8 at day with the sun at iso 100 and shutter 1/47 24 FPS?

You need a neutral density filter to knock down the light amount. Any camera @ F/2.8 (well, any larger sensor camera) is going to be about 4-6 stops overexposed in sunlight. I use a variable ND filter or shoot at F/8-F/22. You can adjust your shutter so it's a bit faster too, but watch out for things like flowing water / fountains else it'll be too jerky.

Google and read about ND filters if you want to shoot wide open in the daytime. My ND filter (and I've owned Singh-Ray) of choice is the Tiffen 82mm ND; just under $200 at B&H and I don't need any step-up rings for my Tamron 24-70 2.8 USD VC.

and there was this weird problem where every other frame was the first frame...so instead of capturing 323 I actually captured 162

162 frame time lapse without adding any actuations

Yomommassis: have you done any further testing, and managed to get rid of the repeating first frame? Your still image looks excellent: I've been using the FPS override for timelapse a lot lately (stable build only), and have been very disappointed with the image quality (particularly sharpness)... doesn't cut well with timelapse shot using RAW stills only. Would be happy with a FPS overide that produced "only" 1000 RAW image files to work on later in Lightroom or similar.

Finally got the post processing done on our shooting last weekend. Video looks great but the post workflow is a headache. Will really use this for a shot or two per shoot but never everything unless the clients are paying for it.