From the 1935 edition of "Twenty Boats You Can Build".
If you have more information on Sunapee, or have a copy of
the blueprints, please contact
Dale Harris (who wants to build one) or if you have general comments or
some ideas to contribute,
go to the "Twenty Boats" index and
visit the comments page.

Sunapee is a sturdy, well-built boat which
in three years of active service has more
than justified its designer's ideas for a day
cruiser which could be used, if necessary, for
comfortable extended cruising.

Before building a boat of this type, you
should thoroughly acquaint yourself with the
general science of boatbuilding. This knowledge
can be obtained from any of the mass
of textbooks dealing with the subject available
in the public library. This manual
itself is probably sufficient reference for
anyone able to handle tools.

Next, thoroughly study the plans. Additional
and very complete plans of the individual
frames are available withe blue
prints as advertised on the pages of article.

Before starting actual construction work
take off the dimensions of the frames from
the offset tables and proceed to lay out full
size plans of the eight frame moulds. Very
little fairing will be necessary. Use a light
batten for this purpose when laying down the
lines.

After checking your completed plans cut
out the frame members. Do not notch them at
this time, but lay them aside and start on
the keel. This member is cut from from a length
pf 2"x4" white oak. Note that the keel cuts
in to meet the stem between stations 1 and 2
but is otherwise straight. Rabbet in the usual
way for the bottom planking and lay it aside
temporarily.

Now tackle the stem. This is formed of
three pieces of white oak and should be cut
exactly to the dimensions given in Fig. 2.

Stopwaters Are Needed At Stem and Keel Joint

Bolt the finished pieces together and put
in the stopwaters which are absolutely necessary
unless you wish to have a leaky boat.
Rabbet to receive the planking and bolt securely
to the keel.

Next in order is the setting up of the frames.
Choose a level base and set the keel up on
blocks following the dimensions given from
base line to keel as shown in Fig. 5. This
will result in what is known as a sprung
keel -- infinitely better than the straight
variety and easier to handle.

With the keel properly set up you can
now brace the stem so that It remains perpendicular
and true, and then proceed to
bolt the frames in their proper positions.
The method employed for securing frames
to the keel is shown in Fig. 8, but any other
method is acceptable.

Use temporary braces to hold the frames
in plumb and true in all dimensions before
cutting the chine and batten notches which
are next to be fitted.

The Transom Is Fitted After the
Planking Is Finished

Use battens to check the fairness of the
curves before notching, using your own
eyes as the final judge in this important detail.

The transom frame has not yet been
fitted. It is left out until later to facilitate
getting in and out of the boat during
construction.

Chine and battens are now securely fastened
in place. Allow these members to
project beyond the transom line and
that they lie flat and snug within their
respective notches. The chine Is fastened with
2" No. 10 F.H. brass screws and the battens
with No. 6.screws about 1¼" long.
With chine and batten in place but transom
as yet unfitted, the planking can be
started.

Commence with the second plank above
the chine. This and the next two planks
will not have to be shaped and it is an all-round
easier way to do the job.

The side planking is secured with No. 6
brass screws at frames and on the chine. It
is fastened to the battens with copper nails
thoroughly clinched.

Work from side to side during the planking
operation. This will prevent twisting
and ensures a balanced job.
The remaining two planks are now fitted
in the same manner but they will require
some steaming and bending where they
approach the stem piece.

With all side planking in place turn the
boat over. You are now ready to lay the
bottom planking.

This is composed of three separate layers.
A word of caution Is in order here. Be
sure to cut and fit the last planks -- the
lengthwise ones -- before fitting and fastening
the first planking down. This because
otherwise the batten lines will be obscured by
the first two layers and it will no longer be an
easy matter to fit the last layer of planking.
Therefore, cut and shape the long planks and
lay them aside before securing the diagonal
planking.

This is laid, working from stem aft and
from side to side. Fasten in the same manner
as used on the side planking but put the
clinch nails as near the center of the battens
as is possible so as to leave room for the
double row of nails which later hold the ½"
long planking to the battens.

When all the diagonal planking is laid trim
off the rough edges and lay the 10 oz. canvas
duck which interposes between the two sets
of planking which compose the bottom of the
boat.

Set the canvas in a heavy coat of lead and
oil and paint thoroughly after stretching.
Trim off the excess canvas, leaving a small
overlap at keel and stem rabbets.

Now take the long ½" planks you have
previously shaped and fasten them down in
their proper sequence in the same manner
used to fasten the other planking. Some
steaming and bending will be necessary to
avoid undue clamping and splitting of the
planks.

If you use the inside type of chine, plane
off the last plank to the chine line and then
thoroughly smooth down the completed bottom.
The boat can now be turned over and
laid in the original keel supports.

The deck carlings or beams are next fitted
as well as the cabin uprights or frame members.

Put in the deck planks of ¾" x 2" material
and cover with canvas set in paint. Leave
enough of the canvas over to be later snugged
down under the moulding strips.

The exterior finish of the cabin is next
taken care of. It may be handled as you see
fit, but a good watertight job is obligatory.

The cabin roofing, of 3/8" waterproof plywood,
is fastened down and canvas covered
in the usual manner. Nail the moulding
strips tightly over the edges of the canvas.

Rounded Transom Set on Conventional Frame

The transom can now be built and installed.
It is shown in the detail sketch, Fig. 6. An
oak knee about 1-1/2" wide should be used to
strengthen the joint of transom with keel.

Sunapee Is Roomier Than Most Small Cruisers

Secure the battens and other members and
trim off before placing the planking. The shaft
log is best fitted inside as shown in drawings.

A simple rudder assembly is shown in the
drawings. Cables led from the rudder quadrant
to the steering wheel (two may be used
for convenience if desired -- one in the cabin
and one in the cockpit) take care of the steering
gear.

The interior trim is optional as, also are
the details of interior fittings.

The original "Sunapee" is finished in white
to the water line with the exception of sheer
strake and transom which are stained.

To print the figures, try saving the large version to
your local computer and printing from some application other than Netscape!