Rag & Bone

POET FROM THE PASTNew York: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are sartorial masters at seamlessly connecting the dapper past with a razor sharp future. In their universe, haunted poets, steam punks and aristocratic soldiers all wander the same dark alleyways — clad in inky colors, regal silhouettes and lush fabrics. As their F/W 12 show began, ribbons of rich color etched across a large LED screen in rhythmic patterns. The effect was of a futuristic tapestry, and it prefaced the exquisite jacquard separates and dramatic shapes that made the collection one of the best of the season. Also present were ombré suits, blocky blanket stripes, and snake-sized cable knits. Unsurprisingly, it was herringbone heaven, with washed tweeds, broken-in chambray and wool flannel to round out the time-honored trinity. Season after season, the design duo turn out aspirational collections that speak to traditions of yesteryear while also doing their part to evolve menswear for the modern man. —Michael Fisher