This is the wiring they sent me All the wires coming out the bottom (I assume are for the backlighting for the switch) so I should be able to wire this the same as the very first post? (Ackattack)
Thank's
Mark

Ok, I just wired everything exactly the way this diagram is showing and when I check my relay with key on the small light on the left upper corner lights up "on" when I press the switch "on" I have NO power at 87a (brown wire from switch) when I press set/cruise (nothing) at 30 (relay #1) resume/accelerate (nothing) at 30 (relay#2)
Now per (Dakota Digital) the wiring they have the red wire from this switch is going to the "hot side" of brake switch (which is 12v always) so if I put this red wire to that connection the "on" light stays on all the time, I unplug it and it goes off. So this time I wired it as the diagram below shows and it lights up as soon as I turn the ignition switch on but as I have stated I have NO power as I should be getting.

I also included the DD wiring so its easier to see what I'm talking about.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated Thanks

The reason I am saying this, I removed the relays and wired them on the bench as they would be in the truck all power switches to the correct terminals and feeds out the correct terminals as they should! Great right? well when I hook the relays back into the truck the exact same way and turn the ign. on the orange light on the (DD switch) lights indicating it is "ON" but I get NO power coming from (brown) wire if I press the "on" button still No power(brown) wire therefor NO power to the cruise unit itself, I now have to wait to get in touch with DD on Monday to see what happens next.

I think you're confusing yourself. You are looking at two different switches, the switch that this thread is about is for a column mounted style where as yours is the dash mounted type. The column mounted style has the internal switches that need to be reversed with the relays, the dash mount does not need them, it is the opposite. Don't ask me why, but the das mount is the only aftermarket switch that I am aware of that has normally open switches, just like a GM switch. Based on the schematic you posted on my CC thread, my thought is you have the brake light switch incorrectly hooked up. assuming you have the DD switch wires hooked to the TAC correctly, on/off, set/coast and resume/accel, I would think this would work. I drew the diagram based off your drawing. Ignore the two pieces of paper covering where I forgot you had LED taillights....

I did speak to DD y and the tech walked me through some checking yesterday and with the switch wired independent from the truck the lights and switch worked perfect!
So I hooked up the white and grey and red to 12v, blue and black to ground, still turns on and worked correctly. Hooked up the brown to the "Cruise On" and as soon as I turn on the ign. the orange light comes on.
Called DD back again, Now he is telling me to put 2 micro facet copasitors 1 between the red and ground wires and 1 between the white and ground!

I will try your setup today and see what happens, hopefully it will work out!
Thank's again for the reply and drawing

I did (correct the brake light switch wiring) you were correct on it was wired wrong. so after this I did start to rewire things like your drawing and all was going fine until I hook up the brown wire from the DD switch (Cruise on) to the factory Grey (cruise on) and the darn orange light comes on. So at this point I removed all wiring from the switch and bench tested the switch power wired up grounds hooked up it works correctly until I try and check for voltage at the yellow (resume pressed I get 12v) same for green (set/coast I get 12v) then check for voltage at the brown wire (cruise on) and I get nothing when I press "on"
Per Brian @ DD he claims the switch is good, and feels there is something wrong at the (cruise on grey wire) from the factory harness??

I am sooo damn confused and angry right now trying to get this set up for this weekend for a road trip and have spent way too much time on this.
I would post a pic of the wiring I had planned but didn't take a pic.
Any advice at this point would be great

If you get 12v when pressing the set/coast and resume/accel buttons but nothing when pressing the ON button, then that's your problem. I don't see how it could be the gray wire to the TAC that is the problem when it isn't even hooked to the switch. So, what exactly is the orange light for? Cruise ON, or cruise ENGAGED? I would try and bypass the on/off switch by just hooking 12 directly to the gray wire on the TAC and see if the cruise works then. If it does, then I'd say the switch isn't working right.

Yes as far as I know it is for cruise "on" and as the switch being messed up it doesn't sound like the "tech" person from DD is Not willing to exchange it! he is putting the blame on the Engine harness, anyways I will check it out one more time and see what happens.
Thank's again!

LS1 nova (Eric right ?) Are you going to the NSRA Nats. in Springfield again Dad (Oldman3 ) said you did the streetkana last year.

Ok, so I checked the switch again and confirmed it IS bad. I am sending it back to get a replacement.
Dad however did find a switch from a Rostra kit and it has 6 wires red (power) black (ground) yellow ( resume) green (set/cruise) brown tied in with a gray (cruise on) I am considering on using this switch but do not know if it is an normally open or normally closed. Or just wait till the new one shows up from DD,What would you do?
Pic #1.

Pic#2.
I am including a diagram of your earlier post from 5-22 and I have refined it a bit. However I did not complete it just yet I need your advice on the relay still if need be you can P.M. me (and maybe we will see you in Springfield!

Yeah, that's me. I was going to go to Springfield, been planning on it for about 9 months, but unfortunately my car I was going to take isn't done and I need to stay home and work on it, only have about a month to get it drivable enough to make it to the Back to the 50's show in Minnesota. anyway, I was looking at your drawing, and then again at mine and realized I kind of screwed the pooch on part of it..... The brake input going to the TAC needs to be from the cold side of the brake light switch on the light circuit so it gets power when the brakes ARE applied. You can tap it into the white wire. Then the rear set of terminals will have power on one side and the other side goes to the PCM for the TCC function. If you haven't sent the switch back, try hooking it up that way and don't hook up the red wire at all. I don't know what that wire is for and after looking at it think that may be the problem, you only need the ignition power to the switch which is the gray and white wires that are tied together. Or you can try the switch your dad gave you, I'm pretty sure it will be the same as the other one, just hook up the 4 wires, red to power, yellow to resume, green to set and brown to on. You shouldn't really need the ground, but hooking it to ground wouldn't hurt anything I wouldn't think.

Ok, back with some news.
I hooked up the new switch (Rostra style from Dad) and wired in the relay for the led taillights. Everything seemed to be working properly (had to replace the brake switch) it was not working consistently. drove the truck and cruise will not "set" I then started to test things out and the green (set/coast) wire from the switch gets power when you turn on the switch when you slide the "set" button it loses power. slide resume has power etc.

So, the picture I have posted below shows how I have it wired "open switch" and I think this may be a "closed switch" per the instructions for testing via rostra if I have the relay wired wrong let me know so I can correct it (I am SO close to having this whipped) I am heading upto Springfield in the Morning so will need to fix it when I get home.

Ok, back with some news.
I hooked up the new switch (Rostra style from Dad) and wired in the relay for the led taillights. Everything seemed to be working properly (had to replace the brake switch) it was not working consistently. drove the truck and cruise will not "set" I then started to test things out and the green (set/coast) wire from the switch gets power when you turn on the switch when you slide the "set" button it loses power. slide resume has power etc.

So, the picture I have posted below shows how I have it wired "open switch" and I think this may be a "closed switch" per the instructions for testing via rostra if I have the relay wired wrong let me know so I can correct it (I am SO close to having this whipped) I am heading upto Springfield in the Morning so will need to fix it when I get home.

Thanx

Mark

You're using the relay because of LED tail lights? If so, connect terminal 87a of the relay to ground.

Ok, tried the ground to 87A and still nothing.
We went up to the NSRA Nationals in Springfield on Friday and talked to a Rep from HayWire electrics and he suggested I remove the relay and install these (pic below) LED resistors + to brake light power and the other end to ground 1 per side.
And it still doesn't work!!
I received the new switch from Dakota Digital and checked it out on the bench and it works as it should.....hooked it up to try it out and it still Does Not Work!!! I will now check to see if I'm getting a signal to all my connections going to the engine bay and maybe try to re install the relay. At this point I have no idea what else to try.

If you have it wired like post #42 (to include 87a to ground, like DayJ1 said) you should be wired correctly for a LED bulb setup. I would put in some regular 1144 bulbs until we verify that your wiring and computer are working correctly. At that point, put your LED lights back in.

Now when you say it doesn't work what exactly do you just mean?

There are other criteria that are required in order for the cruise to work.

The computer has a group of conditions that it uses to determine whether or not it will let you actually "set" the cruise control. Until these conditions are met, it will set "Cruise-lockout" = "yes", preventing you from from setting the cruise control to a certain speed. The computer will not unlock it ("cruise-lockout" = "no") until you are above a certain speed, brake pedal is not being applied or any other criteria the computer has determined that it doesn't want the cruise to be set. Once it meets all of it's required conditions, then it will actually let you "set" the cruise. At this point it "sets", and a PID "Cruise-active" is set to 'yes".

If you have HPTuners or equivalent, you can log all of this PIDs and observe how the cruise control works:

Cruise lockout (yes/no)
Cruise active (yes/no - you have actually set the cruise to a set speed)
Cruise on (you just turn switch on, will come on when you are parked, key on engine off and you push the button)
Cruise accel/res (will come on when you are parked, key on engine off and you push the button)
Cruise set/decel (will come on when you are parked, key on engine off and you push the button)

With that all being said, can you give more information about your setup? Engine/tranny combo?