This is a how-to I decided to write up on how to install an upgraded wheel.

This mainly pretains to the 96+ models of the E36, but the install on the earlier modles is pretty much the same, except for the wiring part.

This is what I could recall from memory. I think it'll do.

Enjoy!

**** NOTE ****

Disconnect your battery's negative terminal before you begin this to avoid an air-bag light, and to prevent the airbag from accidently deploying. Let the car sit for 10-12 minutes to let all caps discharge.

I will not be held liable for any damage you may cause to your car durring this install.

I didn't get as many pics as I would have liked, so I'll be using several of the same ones with different edits on them. I'll get more later, and add them.
*************

With that garbage out of the way, lets begin!

I am going to be showing you how to install the M-Tech 3-spoke steering wheel, US version.

Further note: There are attached pictures in this write up that are used as a visual guide. If you are viewing this thread as a guest, you will NOT be able to see them. You will need to register to gain the full benefit of this write up.

Torque specs: Thanks to Hankdoll!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hankdoll

This is the best write-up I've found on the 3 spoke swap...easily got me through it. Thanks Trevor! The only thing I'd add are the torque specs for those that'll use this thread in the future:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sirius

Put the steering wheel bolt back into place and tighten it, hand tightened.

46 ft-lbs

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sirius

Re-connect the airbag and horn and resecure it to the wheel using the torx bit. Hand tighten.

The first thing you need to do is extract your airbag from your current wheel.

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the second position so you're wheel unlocks and can move freely.

Turn the wheel 90 degrees, this makes it easier to access the screws to the airbag.

On the back of the wheel, there are two holes that give you access to the screws that hold the airbag to the wheel. One hole on each side of the column. These screws take the T-27 bit, they are on really tight, and it would be helpful if your torx bit can attach to a 1/4 in. socket driver.

Undo both until the airbag becomes free. Lift the airbag out, disconnect it and set it aside, face up.

Once the bolt is out, the wheel slides off. Don't pull too hard because the wheel is still connected via some wires.

The next thing you'll have to do is seperate and remove the bottom plastic trim of the column.

The two peices are snaped together, and have a small plastic retaining clip with a plastic screw in them to hold them into place. They seperate somewhat easily, but they almost sound as if you're breaking them. Should look similar to the pic.

**Note** The pic below has the wheel removed already, but its an example.

Now its time to remove that upper trim peice. This can be a PITA, and it will amost feel as though you're going to break it, but if you're careful you can extract it without a problem.

The peice is held on by some sticky stuff, for lack of a better term, and another small retaining clip with that plastic screw. The clip/screw is located on the upper portion of the peice.

You can see in the pic below there the clip is. The red is where its connected to the column, and the green is where you want to look on the outside to remove it.

Once you unclip it, you need to remove the peice. Lift up on the front part of it, while pulling out. You'll have to worm it out of its place from under the dashboard, as it has a plastic filler that stick up in the back. This is where it'll feel like you're going to break it. Be patient and it'll come out.

Once you get the switches out of the way, its time to put in the new switch bracket. You need a new one for this wheel by where it connects to the wheel physically.

You'll see that on the 4-spoke wheel, theres no horn contact switch. I don't have a pic of that so I'll have to explain it. On the bottom of the switch bracket, theres a small white round thing, with a metal peice sticking out of it. Thats your horn contact switch. For the time being, disconnect that from its connecter underneath the coloumn. (The location of where the horn contact switch will be is marked by the yellow arrow)

Time to remove that bracket. Its held on by another plastic clip with a plastic screw underneath and by clips up top. Undo the plastic screw and clip and put them aside. The bottom clip is marked by the green arrow.

Now its time to remove the bracket. On the top of the coloum, is where the bracket is attached by some clips. They are marked by the green arrows.

What you need to do is take the larger flathead screw driver, and push the clips towards the center of the column, while pulling down on the bracket. This will free the bracket and it'll slide right off.

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