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Have you ever eaten something and then regretted it? Since moving here, I’ve occasionally eaten horse. I buy it for American visitors to taste. If you’ve watched the news lately, you can understand why I might be regretting it. If you haven’t seen news stories about Europe’s horse meat scandal, here’s a recap. Horse meat has been discovered in European beef products sold in supermarkets in countries including Britain, France, Sweden, Switzerland, Germany and Ireland. Here, eating horse (particularly in countries like France and Switzerland) is commonplace; it’s estimated that each person in Switzerland eats between 600 and 700 grams of horse meat each year.

From The Swiss Watch Blog

There are two types of horses, ones that are given the powerful and dangerous veterinary drug called phenylbutazone (also known as Bute and banned for human use because to cases severe side effects) and those without who are issued health certificates certifying they can enter the food chain. Can you guess what happened?

from afp.com

Spanghero, a French company, labeled the horse meat it received from a Romanian slaughterhouse as beef. According to officials, Spanghero should have identified the meat as horse from its Romanian customs code, as well as its appearance, smell and price. The company said it acted in good faith, never ordered horse meat, and never knowingly sold horse meat. Parisian prosecutors are now investigating it as fraud.

From Business Inquirer

The geographic scope of the scandal expanded this week. While the quality of food and the food chain in Switzerland is quite high, Swiss companyNestle (the world’s largest food company) is now embroiled in the scandal. It suspended deliveries of all products supplied by German subcontractor H.J. Schypke alleging they sold the contaminated meat to one of Nestle’s suppliers. German discount retailer Lidl pulled products from Finnish, Danish and Swedish stores after finding horse meat in products labeled as beef. German ministers met in Berlin earlier this week to discuss the scandal.

But, wait, it gets worse…. The Swiss program, Kassensturz, showed emaciated horses being beaten, neglected and transported in cramped conditions without food or water before being slaughtered. Apparently it was pretty disturbing. In response, several grocery stores, including Coop, Denner, Aldi, Spar and Migros, pulled most horse meat products off their shelves. Coop and Migros continue to sell some from suppliers (mostly in Canada or France) in whom they have confidence. It’s almost enough to make me a vegetarian again. It’s definitely enough to reduce my meat consumption and be choosier about where I purchase it.

When traveling, it is great to find a wonderful local place to eat. Sprungli is just such a place. A Zurich institution, it opened in its current form in 1939, but before the restaurant/café opened a chocolatier was there. The Sprungli family started that in 1859. It’s still family owned although the chocolate making is a separate business (Lindt & Sprüngli).

Traditionally a favorite of Zurich’s upper crust ladies who lunch (not usually a recommendation that gets me to my kind of place) these ladies know what they are talking about and it’s now a favorite of this girl. Him too. The café serves the best hot chocolate and deserts in town, but they have more substantial fare as well. Plus, when the dining room has cute details like the copper baking tins on the walls, how can you not?

They have several other satellite shops in other towns and at airports (including Geneva’s). While nothing beats that original location, they are a great place to get a quick Sprungli fix or pickup a stellar present.

We have developed a few favorite Swiss brands. Visitors favorite is always Mövenpick. After tasting Mövenpick ice cream, we had a visitor come back to the apartment and spend several hours doing a search to find out where she could get it in the US. Unfortunately, it’s not available there (another reason to visit Switzerland). They do export and you can find it in 30 countries around the world including Russia, Finland, Australia and Singapore.

Mövenpick has an astounding number of unique flavors with exotic ingredients like handcrafted Swiss caramel, fine French Cognac VSOP and vanilla seeds from Madagascar. They introduce new “Limited Editions” flavors for each season. Think cinnamon in the winter, exotic fruits in the summer… It’s not just the amazing flavors that make it exceptional. All products are made without artificial additives, flavours or colors. The quality of the dairy is phenomenal. Describing it as incredibly creamy doesn’t even begin to do it justice.

While the Swiss Chocolate flavor is good, the best flavors are the creamy ones. Our favorite is Creme de Gruyères (heavenly sweet Swiss cream with crunch bits of real Meringue inside). It’s so good that you are in real danger of sounding like Meg Ryan in When Harry Met Sally when you taste it. Other top flavors are Crème Brulée and Tiramisú.

You can find Mövenpick in Europe at roadside kiosks (highly recommended for lakeside strolls), Mövenpick restaurants (worth going just to check out the insanely large and fancy menu of ice cream), other fine establishments and Co-op Swiss grocery stores (yep, we’re stocking the freezer if you come visit).

Mövenpick was originally produced in the kitchens of high-end Swiss restaurants. Eventually, they built factory in Bursins, then moved to a larger facility in Rorschach. In 2003, Nestlé (in Vevey) acquired the brand rights for the Ice Cream category, but keeps it as an independent unit (classifying it as Super Premium) in their in order to maintain the brand’s knowledge, innovation and quality.

Mövenpick doesn’t just make ice cream. In Switzerland, they make yoghurt, chocolate and coffee. We’ve heard from German friends that they sell wonderful jams and salad dressings there. I’ve heard they also do wines. They also have hotels ?!? Yes, you read that correctly. In case you’re wondering, they are high-end too. As you might have guessed, they also serve a phenomenal breakfast.

Visitors to Switzerland probably want to taste some authentic Swiss food. For many, this means fondue. It’s a great cold weather dish, but a bit harder to eat in the middle of summer. The Valaisian Plate (Assiette Valaisanne in French and Bündnerfleisch in German) is great in summer, but perfect when the weather turns. It is a savory plate of charcuterie and good choice year round. Consisting of paper-thin slices of local dried meats such as salami, bacon, and/or dried beef it isn’t a vegetarian dish. People order it as an appetizer or side. Since it usually comes with bread on the side, I’ll order it as my main course (as it is usually an affordable option) in more casual restaurants.

Often, it will include pickles and pickled onions on the side. They got a little crazy with the plate above. Notice the nuts and prunes. By the way, feel free to laugh at the super American bottle of Heinz ketchup and the burgers in the background of the top picture. Everyone else ordered them while I ordered by standard go to dish, the Valaisian Plate. It’s never bad. In fact, it was so good that I had to slap their hands away from my plate as they tried to steal from it.

This post comes with a warning for Americans (and any other country that doesn’t display items many Americans would feel are more mature or private in public spaces). Warning – While I took these pictures in the middle of a train station in Switzerland, but in the US (and probably other places) people consider these items to be more of an adult or private nature.

We’ve noticed that vending machines in Europe contain some things that are um, well, a bit different than what you would see in American vending machines (or at least the ones not found in truck stops). Take a look below and see for yourself.

Yes, that is C-ICE, “Swiss Cannabis Ice Tea,” located above. It is made from black teahemp bloom syrup (5%), and hemp bloom extract (0.0015%) that will allegedly give you a “fantastic natural feeling.” It allegedly has low levels of THC, but appears to be marketed more as a health drink. We didn’t try it, but the Top Gear guys did when they visited Romania.

Please note that the pack of lighters (above) is located adjacent to a kid’s candy bar. Also for kids is Buffalo Jr., a children’s energy drink. It doesn’t contain either Taurine or caffeine and is marketed as providing “an additional supply of energy producing L-Carnitine needed for an active life.”

Years ago, someone told me that it was easy to tell I was American when I ate. It wasn’t the massive amount of food I shoveled into my big mouth at an astounding rate. They told me that Americans are easy to spot because they tend to cut their food with the knife in their right hand and the fork in their left hand. After cutting their food, they set the knife down and switch the fork to their right hand to eat. They told me that a spy gave himself away as an American by doing this and lost his life. Knowing that my life could rest on this small habit, I promptly changed to the European method and haven’t looked back (just don’t ask me to right-click with my left hand).

If you want to eat like the Swiss, here are some simple rules:

Always eat with knife in one hand and fork in the other (except for fondue). I have seen people eat open-faced sandwiches with a knife and fork. Although I found it difficult, I did it too. When in Rome, right? I didn’t want to be the bad American with horrible table manners.

Under no circumstance are you to switch the fork to your right hand from your left.

Note the palms concealing the handles of the utensils in the top photo. Americans tend to hold their fork like a pen. If you are a spy, don’t let this detail ruin an otherwise seller performance.

Do not put your one or both of your hands in your lap at the dinner table. This even borders on rude. Here, people put forearms and/or elbows on the table when they aren’t eating. That’s also different for me because on the US elbows on the table is considered rude.

Take bread and wipe your plate until it is sparkling clean. The bread here is very good, so this should not present any difficulties.

If this seems like a lot, you could just avoid the knife and fork altogether and live off fondue or switch to chopsticks.

It has a traffic-free old town with cobblestone lanes and renaissance buildings with elaborate stonework. Sarlat lives in its streets. Cafes abounded. With wonderful weather and backdrops why wouldn’t you want to sit outside? Walking Sarlat’s streets we saw mimes “warming up,” artists working “en plein air,” and countless street vendors. This mime’s warmup looked surprisingly like the warmups we did in my belly dancing class. I wish I’d gotten it on video for you.

Foodies will be happy to learn that Sarlat is located in the Perigord area of Dordogne, an area almost 50% of the French believe has the best food in France. Sarlat is known for its foie gras, while not my thing, they clearly do a big business it. There are shops everywhere, a statute of geese next to the church and souvenir shops that sell goose themed paraphernalia. Foie Gras (goose liver pate) is controversial. We saw a flock of geese while in Dordogne on a farm. In this area it is an age-old tradition called la garage. The only thing we ate there was gelato.

Sarlat has such nice buildings because it was loyal. Huh? What does loyalty have to do with pretty stone buildings?

During the Hundred Years’ War, Sarlat remained loyal to the French. The French king rewarded its loyalty with money to rebuild the damaged town in luxurious stone. Beautiful, long-lasting and fire-resistant… Oh la la.

We enjoyed strolling its streets and people watching. It might be a bit touristy, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a really interesting place to spend an afternoon. I’m sure it’s even more beautiful in the evening when tourists like me have left for the day.

Although we saw some cool stuff in Milan, one of the main reasons to go to Italy is for the food and drink. They are an attraction in and of themselves and did not disappoint.

We had at least two cappuccino for breakfast every day. Italians only order cappuchinos until 10:00. Although italians only drink cappuccino until 10:00 a.m., they pop in for expressos all day long. If you run into a friend in the street, it is customary to pop into a café for a quick espresso at the bar while you catch up. Ten minutes later, you’re back on your way. Perfect for caffeine addicts like us who don’t always like to linger at a table.

Before dinner, Italian tradition is to have an aperitivo. It is a pre-meal drink meant to stimulate appetite, but seems to be an excuse to go out for a drink, relax and chat with friends. When in Rome, or Milan…

I loved the Antipasti, the appetizer course, because I usually hadn’t gorged myself yet so I could eat while I was actually hungry. The food was so good that I did a good amount of eating when I wasn’t actually hungry. It was so tasty that I just had to eat it. Who knows when I’d have another chance to taste something like that?

One of his favorites was a cheese plate that included burrata, a fresh artisanal cheese made from mozzarella and cream. Although people eat cheeses that are older than some of our nieces and nephews, you are supposed to eat burrata within 24 hours after it is made. Ours came on a plate with fresh buffalo mozzarella and ricotta. De-lish-us!

In Italy, pasta is usually the next course, known as Primo Patti. Although they sometimes serve soup, rice, polenta, etc., it’s usually a rich pasta dish. Carbalicious.

Secondo, the main course, usually consists of chicken, meat, or fish. With so many courses, thankfully the portions aren’t too large. Most Italians don’t eat an antipasto, primo, secondo and dolce at every meal, but the selections are always on the menu. Just because we pigged out doesn’t mean you are required to.

The dolce (Italian for sweet), dessert, ends the meal. People often order an espresso to help digestion and to finish off a meal. Plus it gives them more time to sit and talk over food and drink.

Sorry, we couldn’t wait to take a picture before taking a bite out of our daily gelato. We weren’t the only ones who liked gelato, just check out this cute little guy. He was going to town on his gelato. Notice how he is inside the restaurant.

We all know that I am no Julia Child in the kitchen. When we moved to Geneva, I saw the name Betty Bossi everywhere. I saw recipes, often heard the name and saw prepackaged Betty Bossi items for sale in the grocery store. I began to wonder who is Betty Bossi? I thought she was probably a Swiss celebrity chef, like the Swiss Emeril Lagasse, Gordon Ramsey or Jamie Oliver.

Guess what? The joke’s on me. She’s not a real person, more of a marketing concept, kind of like a Swiss Betty Crocker. Since my unfortunate kitchen accident, I’ve sworn off kitchen appliances (especially immersion blenders). As a result, I won’t be making any of her uber-Swiss recipes that are available on myswitzerland.com. May you have better luck in the kitchen than I do.

When Magglio was here, he was intrigued by huge yellow fields of flowering plants that, from a distance, looked like Canola. We asked the proprietor of a cafe what they were. He told us that they had two names. In France, they are known as “pissenlit,” which translates to “pissing the bed” (and is also another term for dandelion). In Switzerland, they are known as “dents de lion,” which translates to “lion’s teeth.” He showed us a salad of the greens. Apparently you can only eat the plant’s greens before they flower. After they flower, they become too bitter.

We stopped at a field to investigate. It was beautiful. Knowing the name, we bought some at the market the next day and made our own. Tasty.

The plants had just begun to flower and continued to do so. I couldn’t understand why the fields would be filled with them if they weren’t for some other purpose. They grew quickly. On our hike last weekend, two weeks after Magglio’s visit, they were taller than me (not that it’s hard).

Curious, I did a bit of research and determined that they are Colza (Brassica rapa), a type of rapeseed. I’d never heard of it before. Looking up translations, it translates to…Colza. So much for that.

Apparently, Colza oil is big in Europe. They extract the oil for both industrial applications and food. Historically, it was used to light streetlights before electric lighting, to light lighthouses, and in lamps in the place of whale oil. It is also used to calm choppy seas and even as biodiesel. They use the cake after the extraction as feed for pigs. Us? We just like the flowering fields.

Flickr Photos

Schwingen in Switzerland

Schwingen, also known as Swiss wrestling, is one of Switzerland’s national sports. Join us as we learn about Schwingen, chocolate and everything else Swiss as American expats in Geneva. This blog chronicles our adjustment to our new lives abroad, our wonderful experiences and our continued efforts not make complete idiots of ourselves. To make the most of our adventure, we often travel in and outside of Switzerland. We also try to experience as much local culture as possible.