Except for a few specialty varieties, grain is available in just two
varieties, two-row and six-row, named for the number of kernels arranged on
each stalk of barley. Craft brewers tend to prefer the two-row variety,
while mass-production breweries in the U.S. generally use six-row. (Photo courtesy Eric Wolfinger)

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The idea at Alameda's new Admiral Maltings is to combine traditional methods with modern technology and sustainably grown, locally sourced grain, with "a focus," the founders say, "on process, terroir and grain variety." The barley comes from local farms, including farms in the Capay Valley. (Photo courtesy Eric Wolfinger)

A custom-designed 10-ton steep tank is off-loaded in Alameda, where it will
be part of Admiral Maltings' modern technology-meets-ancient-practices
micro-malting facility. (Admiral Maltings)

The new Admiral Maltings micro-malting facility is housed at Alameda's former Naval Air Station, where ancient floor-malting practices
combine with modern technology and locally grown, sustainable grain.
(Admiral Maltings)

The new Admiral Maltings micro-malting facility is being built out at
Alameda's former Naval Air Station, where ancient floor-malting practices
will combine with modern technology and locally grown, sustainable grain.
(Admiral Maltings)

The new Admiral Maltings micro-malting facility is being built out at
Alameda's former Naval Air Station, where ancient floor-malting practices
will combine with modern technology and locally grown, sustainable grain.
(Admiral Maltings)

Most beer lovers these days know a great deal about hop varieties. But the malt — the barley, wheat or other grain used to brew beer — is at least as important as the other ingredients.

Until recently, there were only a handful of big malt companies in this country, and even fewer malthouses, where the grain is processed for brewery use. Except for a few specialty varieties, grain is available in just two varieties, two-row and six-row, named for the number of kernels arranged on each stalk of barley. Craft brewers tend to prefer the two-row variety, while mass-production breweries in the U.S. generally use six-row.

The last few years have seen the rise of small breweries, but there’s been a small revolution in the malt world, too. With so many small breweries needing specific types of malt, which large malt companies were having trouble supplying, more than 30 very small malting facilities have opened in at least 15 states and three Canadian provinces. And it’s all coinciding with the drive to create beer with local ingredients.

Now California is poised to get its first micro-maltster. Admiral Maltings is expected to open at Alameda Point on the old Naval Air Station in late May.

Admiral Maltings was founded by Ron Silberstein, who also owns ThirstyBear Organic Brewery; Dave McLean, owner of the Magnolia Brewing Company; and Curtis Davenport, who will oversee the day-to-day operations of the facility. Both Davenport and Silberstein are graduates of the Canadian Malting Barley Technical Centre’s Malt Academy, the only course of its type in North America.

Admiral Maltings will be one of the few companies employing the ancient practice of floor-malting: Small batches of grain are steeped in water, allowed to germinate in a thin layer and gently turned, then dried and cured in a shallow loaded kiln. The idea is to combine traditional methods with modern technology and sustainably grown, locally sourced grain, with “a focus,” the founders say, “on process, terroir and grain variety.”

Several years ago during a trip to Munich, I was lucky enough to see the floor-malting facilities at the Augustiner-Bräu, located several floors below ground level. The large area was divided into floors about twice the width of a bowling alley lane and several times longer, covered with a thin layer of barley. Old-fashioned gears and pulleys kept the grain in perpetual motion, slowly turning up, down and across the floors. It was an amazing sight.

Many brewers believe that the gentler, slower process of floor-malting produces malt with better flavors that help brew even better beer — and spirits. Admiral Maltings’ grain will be available to both craft brewers and distillers.

I think we’re about to see a major change in the beer industry over the next few years. Most beer lovers already know all about Cascade hops, Simcoe, Citra and Mosaic. We’re about to see a malt renaissance, with new grain varieties joining Maris Otter, Golden Promise and 100 other specialty malts. Expect to see Alameda’s Admiral Maltings at the forefront.