I think not, at least in our case. Our local Maxwell distributor/retailer at the time was quite clear about that. I think I remember checking the machinery labeling at the time, too.

He also didn't make it sound like ordering it with the 5/16 chainwheel (instead) was any kind of big deal at all.

-Chris

I think due to availability where I'm at, and due to cost constraints, I'm sort of going to have to order by internet and self-install.
I would imagine a smart manufacturer would make parts interchangeable, keeps production costs and supplies down so I'm not surprised the wheels interchange.
Interestingly the VW and VWC lines have many options of chain size per winch size?

I agree with the horizontal Lofrans solution.
To use the windlass for kedgeing or running up the mast, the lead of line off the winch needs to come to hand. You don't want to be on your knees trying to manage that. In addition, if you go to work the windlass manually, you don't want to be stooped over, grinding a winch handle 8 inches off the deck.
Just some experiences Ive picked up over the years.

I think due to availability where I'm at, and due to cost constraints, I'm sort of going to have to order by internet and self-install.
I would imagine a smart manufacturer would make parts interchangeable, keeps production costs and supplies down so I'm not surprised the wheels interchange.
Interestingly the VW and VWC lines have many options of chain size per winch size?

Fair enough. Although you might check directly with Maxwell to see whether it's an easy order... or maybe a whole second chainwheel by itself (you swap) might be easy and might not be all that much $$ in the grand scheme of things.

I've had great response from them in the past, once on a question about the rode counter, and another on a question about an "extension bit" to fit the star-shaped holes in the top. (Given our recessed installation, an extension makes it possible to actually rotate the spanner a whole 360°. I thought I was asking about a custom product, but they simply said "of course we have that" and sold one to me.)

FWIW, I'm not able to say whether the RC 10 (any size) is better than other brands/models; it's just the only one I have recent experience with, and it seems to work well. IOW, I'm not in "selling" mode, just providing a data point

I agree with the horizontal Lofrans solution.
To use the windlass for kedgeing or running up the mast, the lead of line off the winch needs to come to hand. You don't want to be on your knees trying to manage that. In addition, if you go to work the windlass manually, you don't want to be stooped over, grinding a winch handle 8 inches off the deck.
Just some experiences Ive picked up over the years.

After last weekend hauling it up with just my back, I'll take grinding a handle on my knees

__________________1st rule of yachting: When a collision is unavoidable, aim for something cheap.
"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design

VWC 1500, buy the older proven model.
I think it is available with the drum also.
And mount the windlass over the hawse hole you have. With the Vertical windlass you will see no tail of the chain.. it just disappears below deck... but does so very reliably as the wildcat has more gripping area than on a horizontal.

__________________"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard

OK, really stupid question, but is the chain pipe on the VWC series on the back or to one side of the windlass? I would assume to one side as that puts the chain on for 270 degrees?
If to the side, then on the port side? or starboard?

Mine is a V2/3 Lewmar. The chain pipe is forward of the motor hole, allowing 270 degree grip.

I have removed my windlass to repaint the decks. The top hole is the chainpipe and is forward. The four symmetrical holes are for securing the motor/gearbox, and the 3 o'clock position hole is for the magnetic sensor switch of the chain counter.

Thanks for the picture, it's worth a thousand words.
I need to get to the boat and measure and look to see what is possible mounting wise, I believe a horizontal is out due to size constraints.
Currently I have two Hawse pipes, if it works like I hope I think the winch will mount where the right Hawse pipe is like Cheekaco said and a new hole cut for the chain pipe.
Just no good answer on how to handle the left anchor unless it's all nylon rode.

A second anchor rode on the bow is not a problem. Use the capstan to raise the rope portion, then have a chain claw and a piece of nylon the retract the smaller length of chain to the deck. You'll probably find you don't do it often, if at all.

The chain counter is a personal thing. I installed one because I was going to install some accessory rocker switches, anyway. On my bow I don't use foot switches. I have replaced many for my customers and found them to always be a source of failure, corroding away. They are in a very vulnerable area and bound to allow water to leak in. More importantly, I found myself always stepping on a live anchor switch at an awkward time. After a friend caught his hand in the gypsy due a sudden lurch in the deck, well, that did it for me. So, when I installed my electric windlass, I built a box that fit on the pulpit. I'll try to send a picture of it, but everything is off the deck at the moment for repainting. The box has a plug for the Quick remote chain counter and control, as well as two standard foot switches, mounted vertically on the box. I can stand at the bow, in a place where I can keep an eye on the anchor coming up, clear it of kelp, if necessary, or jst hose the chain free of mud. I have my windlass power breaker in the cockpit, inside a locker to further protect it. Turning on the windlass power then turns on several large red lights around the boat, to let everyone know that the windlass is armed. At the bow, on the switch box, I have a particularly strong red LED light, used for inside bait tanks, that is aimed at the capstan. Not only does it remind me the windlass is active, but it provides plenty of light at the capstan to confirm there are no kinks, toes or stray lines nearby. I also ave a similar LED directly over the bow roller to check things out there. Further, I mounted a 55 watt decklight just under the pulpit to switch on at the bow if I need extra light to clear the chain at night.

Back at the wheel, located in the center of the boat, I have an additional Quick chain counter control with up/down switch, so I can singlehand the operation. While I was running the wires for the remote switches, I installed one inside the bow anchor locker, along with the red LED light, so I could pull the chain and flake it down if needed. Lastly, I have a locker further aft where I can pull the chain to trim the boat better for long passages. I included, yet another switch and LED, to allow me to singlehandedly move the chain without great effort. So, the answer is, yes, it was worth it to me. Probably not for many though. The remote switches make it possible to also use the capstan as a "donkey engine" from a remote site, to raise heavy loads using halyards and snatch blocks to lead the hauling part. Bottom line, I did it because I could, and I'm glad.

I didn't think of a chain claw and piece of nylon, you could just use your snubber couldn't you?
I too have inadvertently stepped on a foot switch and ran the windlass. I do not intend to install foot switches, but use a remote instead, reason I wanted a wireless one.

If the VC windlass is located properly it can service both bow rollers, as long as they are not too far apart, and the VC is far enough aft. The rope/chain rode can simply be handled on the rope capstan.

__________________

__________________1st rule of yachting: When a collision is unavoidable, aim for something cheap.
"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow
"Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design