So I had some money burning a hole in my pocket back in 2017 also was really missing my old 245 and found this 242 on offer up for 1200 messaged the owner on offer and got no response from the seller figured it was gone...Then about a month later I got a message back found out that it was not sold! So I went to go look at the car it was in so so shape had a blown head gasket ended up getting it for 700 after going back and forth with the owner.

Now at this time I didn't know my exact plans for this car just fix the head gasket? rip it apart and do a simple +T build or slap some ITBs on the B23 and make it a fun slow car.

So I decided to rip the head off and see what I was dealing with and go from there. After I pulled the head off I discovered that the head gasket has been blown for a very long time and that the cooling system had pure water in it for a long time.

So then I made the decsion that I was going to pull the engine and transmission out of the car and clean up everything and do a simple rebuild on the engine and slap some ITBS on the car.

Once it was out I cleaned up everything after many many MANY cans of oven cleaner and high strength degreaser it became clean...ish

now that everything was cleanish I wanted to tuck the engine bay to clean it up more. This is where things get interesting. I started buy pulling the drivers side fender to re run the headlight harness in the fender.

during that process I was looking at the battery tray and it was rusted out..so out it came then
I found another small amount of rust that needed to be fixed.

after welding up the small patch I started to attempt to weld some holes I made while removing the battery tray out that became a royal pain in the ass with the thin sheet metal. so I just cut it all out and replaced it with new steel

now after all that we could not just leave all the random holes in the bay to make it smooth so got to welding again

now with all the holes welded up

I then started some body work

while things started to look smooth and I was loving how the engine bay was turning out. but something was missing. Thats when it clicked time to bring some of my off-road passion into the Volvo.

after some playing around and making way to many templates. I got the plates made

then welded them in

body work them

and this is where I am now with the car. I have not figured out what I am doing with the engine just yet I picked up a b230F for the car but....this was the number 2 rod bearing

but more action to come...I the engine will the next installment off this build as more money comes in.. still recovering from life issues, exciting things to come lets just hope i have the skills to pull them off

So far so good. Love the plans you have for it. Looking forward to watching this one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mblue240

You had me at wire tuck, but welding the holes made me subscribe. Can't wait to see more!

Thanks guys I look forward to this build also really want it done so I can just drive! I really miss driving a classic Volvo. I am excited to see where my mind takes this car. possible air ride and lots of carbon fiber ideas bouncing around in my head.

That is a flat top piston high compression B23. 10.3+:1 vs the B230 that you picked up is ~9:1. Shave the head a bit on the B23 and you will be in 10.8 - 11:1 territory. A little head work, a fat cam, ITBs, a decent header and good exhaust and the thing will be a terror.

When you say ITBs, I presume that you are looking at side draft carbs - or ITB fuel injection?

You could always have decent rods and lighter weight pistons made to make even more power.

That is a flat top piston high compression B23. 10.3+:1 vs the B230 that you picked up is ~9:1. Shave the head a bit on the B23 and you will be in 10.8 - 11:1 territory. A little head work, a fat cam, ITBs, a decent header and good exhaust and the thing will be a terror.

When you say ITBs, I presume that you are looking at side draft carbs - or ITB fuel injection?

You could always have decent rods and lighter weight pistons made to make even more power.

Itb fuel injection thinking about running 4age 20v itbs or r1 set up. Car will be ran with ms2.

The beginning of some exciting stuff today. Both blocks (b23f and the b230) are heading to the machine shop after talking with the builder he wanted both and we will decide which to build once we both choose the best candidate for machining.

Small update. Ordered camshaft/valve springs from kl racing. Waiting on short block to be finished up head is still at the machine shop getting ported and polished. Started to paint the engine bay will be purchasing more paint tonight.

Engine bay is looking nice! Out of curiosity, did you add in drain holes at the bottom of those pockets under the strut tower? I'd be a bit concerned about water collecting there now that they are partially blocked off.

Engine bay is looking nice! Out of curiosity, did you add in drain holes at the bottom of those pockets under the strut tower? I'd be a bit concerned about water collecting there now that they are partially blocked off.

Yes I did. When I washed the bay after all body working and primer sanding i realized they needed drainage. Drill two holes in the lowest spots for drainage. It should be more then enough.

You may want to look into the differences between B23 and B230 short blocks before letting the machinist tell you which one to use - lots of changes in the bottom end between the two. What year did the B230 come out of? If it's an early skinny-rod B230 ('85 to '89 I think) then it may be best to build the B23 instead.

You may want to look into the differences between B23 and B230 short blocks before letting the machinist tell you which one to use - lots of changes in the bottom end between the two. What year did the B230 come out of? If it's an early skinny-rod B230 ('85 to '89 I think) then it may be best to build the B23 instead.

Meh, he could just throw later rods and pistons and be fine. Push comes to shove, adding a thrust bearing half to the cap of the thrust bearing makes the block just as strong as a late model block.

Would always pick a 230 over a 23. Noticeably smoother and more free-revving. Much easier to find parts.

You may want to look into the differences between B23 and B230 short blocks before letting the machinist tell you which one to use - lots of changes in the bottom end between the two. What year did the B230 come out of? If it's an early skinny-rod B230 ('85 to '89 I think) then it may be best to build the B23 instead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harlard

Meh, he could just throw later rods and pistons and be fine. Push comes to shove, adding a thrust bearing half to the cap of the thrust bearing makes the block just as strong as a late model block.

Would always pick a 230 over a 23. Noticeably smoother and more free-revving. Much easier to find parts.

You both are right I have sold the b230 block I had. I needed more room in my garage. The b23 is on a engine stand slapped together the bottom end one night because I was bored and didn't want to lose parts. Although that engine is not going into the car.

I have another b230 from a 740 being cleaned up from a local member. That will be going into the car. The head will be getting work done in the next few weeks. Still waiting on klracing parts to show up for that.....and now that the bay has been painted I can start working on the wiring and some other fun stuff