Description

This variation on the Pioneer route provides the finest moderate route to the Monkey's Summit. It adds several great pitches and about another 100ft of climbing to the standard route.

Pitch 1: Begin on the right side of the west face of Monkey Face. Begin in a short section of flaring chimney or just to the right of this chimney on a small crack on the face. Move up these harder opening moves onto easier cracks. Continue up through a dihedral with a few bolts and a few mini roofs to a stance and a bolted anchor just below a 4th class ramp. This pitch is fairly long.

Pitch 2: Climb the slotted ramp above to a steep large roof. There are several variations here but the easiest is follow a crack out the right side of the roof. Pull around the roof on the right side and you'll see the anchors.

Pitch 3: Traverse left on a slab protecting in a thin crack on the wall in fron of you. From here head toward the notch formed between the monkey and the main buttress. Continue up the slab on the Pioneer route to the anchor below red rock and the aid pitch.

Rappel as Pioneer route

Protection

All anchors are bolted Double set of Cams to #3 Standard Nuts Many slings + 2 double lengths

Once in the Monkey's mouth after climbing the bolt ladder, you move to the opposite side. Set up an anchor here, and then you crawl out of the Monkey's mouth (dubbed "Panic Point") and onto the 5.7 face above. This pitch is very short, as you climb to the Monkey's nose where there is an anchor. You can link this pitch, and continue past this point to the summit in one push if you like. Great Climbing and exposure!

On pitch 2, take the variation out to the left, the climbing is no harder than the first pitch and gets you to the bolt ladder in one long pitch, eliminating the need for the 3rd pitch travers. Bring long runners to eliminate rope drag and/or use double rope method instead of a single chord. If not rope drag may be a PITA. The climbing on this variation is far better than the regular pitch 2/3 combo.

Good photos of the 2nd doing the traverse on std. route but the variation mentioned above is better climbing. Also, for a superior experience, start off the ground with the right side (slanting) crack (featured in the original Oregon Rock book).

Definitely follow Shapp's advice, especially on the long runners, unless you don't mind freeing about 30' (or so) of easy (5.5) climbing. After the 5.8 crack ends it's like climbing a step ladder the anchors. And don't let "Panic Point" get to your head! It's a well protected with good feet easy traverse, and totally rewarding!!

Definitely take the left variation up to the dihedral crack- fun climbing through there, no more difficult than the p1 climbing. Take p2 all the way to the bolt ladder. Whole route protects easy with great views. Shade in the morning.