Anyone have info on how to change out the control arms? The lovely knocking noise has started and I'm getting aftermarket parts. The Chrysler ones are dead after 50k miles on mine. Thanks, I appreciate it.

General warnings/cautions
Instructions on removal/installation will follow

02 - Front Suspension/Front/Warning
WARNING
WARNING: Chrysler LLC does not manufacture any vehicles or replacement parts that contain asbestos. Aftermarket products may or may not contain asbestos. Refer to aftermarket product packaging for product information.

Whether the product contains asbestos or not, dust and dirt can accumulate on brake parts during normal use. Follow practices prescribed by appropriate regulations for the handling, processing and disposing of dust and debris.

WARNING: Do not remove the strut shaft nut while strut assembly is installed in vehicle, or before the coil spring is compressed with a compression tool. The spring is held under high pressure.

CAUTION: Only frame contact hoisting equipment can be used on this vehicle. It cannot be hoisted using equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used, damage to rear suspension components will occur.

CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle can a sheet metal screw, bolt, or other metal fastener be installed in the shock tower to take the place of an original plastic clip. It may come into contact with the strut or coil spring.

CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening the hub nut, the vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires for a length of time.

(see pic 3 below)
CAUTION: Upon removing the knuckle from the ball joint stud, do not pull outward on the knuckle. Pulling the knuckle outward at this point can separate the inner C/V joint on the halfshaft thus damaging it.

CAUTION: Use care when separating the ball joint stud (4) from the knuckle (1), so the ball joint seal does not get cut.

4. Using an appropriate prying tool (2), separate the ball joint stud (4) from the knuckle (1) by prying down on lower control arm (3) and up against the ball joint boss on the knuckle.

(see pic 1 below)
1. Place the lower control arm (2) into the front suspension crossmember (1).
2. Insert the rear bolt (3) up through the crossmember (1) and lower control arm (2).

(see pic 2 below)
3. Install, but do not fully tighten, the nut (1) on the rear bolt attaching the lower control arm (3) to the crossmember (4).
4. Install, but do not fully tighten, the front bolt (2) attaching the lower control arm to the crossmember.
5. With no weight or obstruction on the lower control arm, tighten the lower control arm rear mounting bolt nut (1) to 183 N·m (135 ft. lbs.).
6. With no weight or obstruction on the lower control arm, tighten the lower control arm front pivot bolt (2) to the following:
170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) (Vehicles built before 8/31/07)
135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.) (Vehicles built on or after 8/31/07)

(see pic 3 below)
7. Install the ball joint (6) stud into the knuckle (3), aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the groove formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
8. Install a NEW ball joint stud pinch bolt (4) and nut (5). Tighten the nut to 82 N·m (60 ft. lbs.).

Replacement looks simple but believe me, IT SUCKS. I'm 5+ hours into mine and am ready to take it to the junk yard.

The $640 I was quoted for the job sounded high, but it was a deal! I wish I could go back in time. I have replaced the arms in other vehicles and while they weren't fun, they were much easier.

UPDATE #1: I finally have one side completed. Sometimes it helps to have another eye to give you some ideas. I was thinking when one bolt didn't slide in, that it might help to start the other bolt. All that does is make both bolts not go in. So, take it one at a time and you will need to do a little prying to get the front one lined up.

I'm still having issues popping the other side out - even bought an air hammer/pickle fork. Hopefully it comes out tomorrow.

UPDATE #2: Job completed. I got the ball joint almost half-way out with a combination of the air fork and a regular one. From there a couple dozen blows with a 1lb hammer got the job done. The new one went in easy with the exception of the first bolt. It took some prying to get that bolt through both holes & arm.

If I have to do it again in 25k miles, I will. The little things I learned should make the job go reasonably quickly.