THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Renegade Canteen Restaurant Review

: Chef Robert McGrath writes on his website that he wants Renegade to be a haven from the stress of everyday life, where we can “chill out” during dinner. That’s friendly talk for a notable chef, and he delivers in both mood and food. The airy space is warm with wood, even to the pillars of stacked crates, in a stylish manner that’s equally suited to enjoying a cold mug of beer or a fine wine from the extensive list spanning Europe, South America and Arizona. To eat, look for reasonably priced Western American fare, like flatbread layered in succulent pork cheeks, marinara sauce, caramelized onions, arugula, mushroom and Parmesan. McGrath is a serious chef, but he's not devoid of a sense of humor. To wit: Check out the “Buzzard Breath” chili topped with Fritos, Colby Longhorn and sour cream; or cauliflower fondue dotted with Grape-Nuts for dunking with wood-roasted butternut squash, apples, seasonal vegetables and bread. Servers are just as friendly---and they know the menu, happy to convince you that a crazy sounding dessert of red beetroot cake capped in carrot-vanilla gelato, pistachio brittle and carrot-beet powder is, well, truly tasty.