Late 90’s – Early 00’s Fraternity Style

It’s funny to look back at certain points in time, specific periods in your life, and directionally changing events that influence the future course of your life. For a lot of us, it’s when we left home for college and pledged a fraternity. Not only is it a tough decision, but it happened within weeks of leaving home for the first time, and being out on your own. It’s a very accelerated ‘coming of age’ story.

The great thing about being in a fraternity is that no matter when you pledged, it was the best it’s ever been. The years before you, and after you in no way compare to your time on campus in the house. You and your brothers did it right, and were the absolute best at it. Don’t deny it…they very quickly become ‘the good ole days’. It’s a common view that the guys that initiated after you graduated are wusses who have no idea what real brothers went through, and the guys that initiated before you are solid, but are basically a bunch of window-lickers who had to have all their wrongs righted by you and your class(es). I’ve been to enough Alumni golf tournaments/homecomings/etc and seen the looks. You know what I’m talking about. Regardless, you are all brothers, and will always deny ’till you die.

Fraternity life shaped you. It turned you into the guy you are, and the guy you will become. It introduced you to a network of friends that will become business counterparts, golf partners, and eventually God parents to your children. The Fraternity taught you about responsibility, leadership, how to entertain, how to party, and how to cut loose. Fraternity life also has a certain style that you will carry with you for the rest of your life. At least it does down here in SEC/ACC country. We don’t wear hoodies.

Back in the late-90’s and early 00’s, Fraternity style was much more mystical than it was after the mid-2000’s adoption of camera phones and Facebook. Back then, you learned about Fraternity style by looking at your older brother’s ZAPS photos, or by seeing it in person. Let’s call this late-90’s to early ’00’s time period the pre-iPhone era. Now sing it with me…starting from the top:

Headwear was relatively simple. The gold standard was a white bar hat from The Game of some SEC or ACC school that wasn’t yours. The key was to break it in quickly. Everyone had their technique, and it was employed very quickly. Some guys would wear it into the lake and let the sun bake it dry. Some would be surgical, cutting the webbing out with Xacto knives and putting it into the dishwasher. Others would just let nature take it’s course. However the final, broken in destination was reached, your Game hat was as good as it gets.

Second in the lineup, but never second fiddle, was a hat from The Masters. These hats eventually took over like a firestorm towards the end of the pre-iPhone phase. This happened for two reasons: first, The Game hats went ka-put. Disappeared. It was weird; you couldn’t find them anywhere. Second, The Masters hats became more accessible, as patrons would come back with a dozen or so for their brothers.

Tour visors were prevalent during this time, but they were worn with much more distain that today. They were NEVER clean, and had been through some rough afternoons at the lake or at the beach. Today’s visors may as well be a flat-brim compared to how it was done back then.

Lastly, everyone had a disgusting, vintage corduroy hat that got some serious wear in the colder months. It was usually embroidered with a cigarette, beer, ski resort, or shotgun brand, and housed the top half of the winter frat-shag. The corduroy hat was treated gently as it slept through the warmer months.

Remember, Costa Del Mar didn’t hit the scene until the mid-00’s, but sunglasses were just as important in the late-90’s Fraternity style. They weren’t as much of a financial investment. There were Ray Ban Wayfarers, which were all the rage, as well as the Suncloud and Revo wayfarers. But, if you’ll remember, similar knock offs found at a gas station on the way home from Florida were A-OK. As long as they were tortoise shell. Sunglasses were much more disposable back then.

Regardless of the sunglasses, Chums were a must. Dirty chums. They were preferred because they broke in and patina’ed a little better than Croakies, and because non-Fraternity guys started wearing Croakies. And the sunglasses NEVER left the neck. They were either hanging, resting on your neck with a Chums necktie, or being worn. Sunglasses were on your person more than shoes.

There were a lot of Oakley’s that found the back of the drawer as soon as rush started.

I would credit the current t-shirt market’s success to the late-90’s era Fraternity t-shirt style. There were three specific categories: First, there was the bar t-shirt. Brogen’s on SSI paid their rent off of the t-shirts they sold during Georgia/Florida weekend. They were essentially a right of passage. Second were concert t-shirts. The old Widespread Panic t-shirts were a must have for any Fraternity man in the late 90’s / early 00’s. Extra points for lot shirts.

Finally, deserving of a paragraph all it’s own, were Fraternity and Sorority shirts. These have left a lasting impression that has carried through to today’s t-shirt designs. Back then, the ‘been there, done that, got the t-shirt’ was true for ANY fraternity or sorority event. The coveted t-shirts were Sorority formal or date night t-shirts. It proved that you knew how to talk to girls. Next were theme party shirts, followed by rush t-shirts. Rush t-shirts didn’t get much play, and we usually gave them to our sorority friends. There was no better way to advertise…

The greek shirts weren’t restricted to your own campus. Sorority date night shirts from other schools were choice as well. Not only did that prove that you could talk to girls, but it showed that you were mobile. With all t-shirts, they were worn until they fell apart. They carried a lot more sentimental value than t-shirts do today. And they were a lot cheaper.

It was a much simpler time for polo shirts 20-ish years ago. The competition was relatively low, and so were the choices. The pre-iPhone era Fraternity man had about three different styles: the Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece (always a size down), the Polo from Ralph Lauren (always on-size), and the original Patagonia polo, with ‘patagonia’ embroidered on the left chest in tonal thread.

Speaking of logos, that was a key factor: the logo had to be small, almost invisible. Anything larger than a nickel was out (and quite frankly, still is).

I learned how to wash my polo shirt the right way during this period: always inside out so the collar doesn’t get creased. After about 40-50 washes, these polos were at peak performance. Maybe a little threadbare at the seams and along the cuffs, but softer than a pledge that quits after the first week.

Oxford shirts were the bedrock of pre-iPhone era style, as Fraternity men were the only ones wearing them on campus. Everyone else was wearing flannels, Abercrombie plaids, and Chaps sweaters. Gross. The oxfords – mostly from Polo by Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers, created a long-tail effect to the polo shirts. If Patagonia had made oxfords, I’m sure the Fraternity man of the late 90’s to early 00’s would have worn it like a badge of honor.

Oxfords went with everything, and they were easy. The choice colors were white, blue, and the blue university striped, with pink rounding out the top four. Back then a pink shirt was not as common as it is in today’s Easter Egg palette. The pink oxford was a dare – not to the wearer, but to everyone else. Regardless, it took nuts to make fun of a Fraternity man wearing a pink shirt. It was an insult to the entire Greek community, and the insulter paid dearly.

These oxfords became your ‘school colors’, as these were part of the gameday uniform. These oxfords, along with khakis (we’ll get to those later), a tie (later) and a blue blazer (we’re getting there). Christmas was prime oxford shirt time, as Santa seemed to know that post-football season was just the right time to restock.

These oxfords were rarely dry cleaned. They washed well, breaking them in and softening them up. They ironed well, which is a skill that seems to have left today’s Fraternity man. Find anyone that initiated in the late 90’s to early 00’s, and you’ve found someone who can iron an oxford shirt lickity-split.

The Fraternity mans’ coat of armor. The navy blazer screams Fraternity style, as much today as it did in the pre-iPhone period. It’s included here because it has to be. Back then, the green blazer got a lot of play as well, and seersucker was spotty.

As brothers, it was our duty to encourage pledges to go spend $100 on a Chaps dumpster navy blazer, as it was sure to get destroyed while they were pledging. Never was a piece of clothing abused as much as a pledge’s navy blazer. Precision cuts were made in the lining to sneak in airplane bottles to the football games. There was always a tear in one of the pockets. But after some abuse, it fit like a glove. Even though it became a second skin, there was no pause when disposing of the pledge blazer.

After initiation, the workhorse was back in play, or you splurged and bought a new navy blazer. This blazer would become your best friend over the next few years, until it needed to be replaced as a result of some arson-esque adventure that is likely still under investigation.

Brooks Brothers and Polo were leading the pack for neckties in the late 90’s and early 00’s. This was before Southern Proper, Vineyard Vines, and the rest of the ‘fratty’ brands started pumping out all the nostalgic ties. Either Brooks Brothers or Polo made a tie in every Fraternity’s colors, and that was a must. Beyond that, it was regimental stripe after regimental stripe.

Towards the end of the pre-iPhone era, some nostalgic ties started popping up, as well as a few bow ties. They proved to be significant, as it launched brand after brand serving the preppy, Southern demographic.

The outerwear stayed true to the Patagonia/outdoor-esque mentality. The ski bums look, living well South of the Mason Dixon line.

The Patagonia Snap-T was a hugely popular item in the late 90’s to early 00’s, probably more so than it is now. During that period, Patagonia was more refined, and generally found at outdoor stores like High Country, or in catalogs like Campmor. Patagonia didn’t have as many crazy designs as they do now, usually sticking to the primary colors with a contrasting trim and pocket flap. The Snap-T was the choice during the cooler months.

For the cold months, it was a North Face ski jacket. These took hold like whiskey hangover. Available in only a few colors, and a relatively simple design, that North Face logo on the back shoulder was the choice for the pre-iPhone era Fraternity man.

Belts were easy. The Orvis shot shell belt was the go-to for the Fraternity man. They don’t sell the original with the Winchester shell (to Orvis’ defense, it’s not their fault – it was a supply issue), but that was where it was at. There were a lot of trips made to the old Orvis store in Buckhead after pledge pins were handed out. In addition to the shot shell belt, The ribbon belts were starting to make their way around the waists of Fraternity men in the pre-iPhone era.

I had a friend at College of Charleston who got me a South Carolina flag belt, and it got a TON of wear. It was a great alternative to the traditional leather, and was the precursor to the enormous embroidered/needlepoint belt market today.

Pants were very easy. Khakis ruled the day. Jeans were around, but they weren’t as prevalent as they are today.

Polo Phillip Pants were the choice of the Fraternity man. They were a good, medium-weight flat front chino that washed well, and were easy to iron. Ironing was a must for events that required a tie. Otherwise, some ironed and some didn’t. There wasn’t a formula. Besides the Polo Phillip Pants, there was room for the original $25 Duck Heads, but they were on their way out after the Atlanta olympics in ’96.

Jeans were A LOT simpler. For the most part, Gap Standard Fit was a sure thing, as well as Levi’s 501s. Both with a darker fade. NO whiskers…they hadn’t been invented yet. No Fraternity man in the late 90’s or early 00’s cut their jeans to be more of a boot cut. That was a trashy, preemptive move by people who would go on to frost their tips.

Khakis and jeans were a classic fit, not too baggy but not slim, with a leg opening wide enough to fit over boots, but narrow enough to look appropriate with loafers. Regardless, late 90’s to early 00’s Fraternity men bought pants with enough room in your pocket for a pack of Marlboro Lights and a Bic lighter.

It’s hard to say that shorts are indicative of Fraternity style, but there was one, and only one, that screamed Greek letters: the iconic Patagonia Stand Up Shorts. 5″ inseams. Tan, navy, and tan. They only got better with age. Cargo shorts were coming into style back in the late 90’s, and these were the antithesis. Of course there were other shorts choices – the Polo Andrew shorts were a big hit, mainly driven by the short inseam. That was the denominator back in the pre-iPhone era: inseam. Anything longer than 6″ was considered trash. Today, we may have given an inch, but that inseam rule still holds true.

Footwear, believe it or not, was as straightforward as it gets. The bedrock of pre-iPhone era Fraternity men was a pair of grey or navy New Balance running shoes. The 990s (grey) and the 587s (navy blue) were interchangeable, and became a beacon for those that earned their Greek letters. It didn’t take long for this look to dilute into the general population, mainly led by the GDI-friendly ‘trail running’ shoes.

For dress shoes, there was but one (two, really) choice: Cole Haan Penny Loafers. These loafers were perfect for the khakis/blue blazer look, and could be worn with or without socks. They upped the ante when it came to Sorority date nights, and looked the part during Homecoming weekend. Once the penny loafers were toast, they could be easily replaced with the Cole Haan Tassel Loafers. Same look, just with a little more flare.

For boots, Clarks Wallabees were a very popular choice, as they bridged the gap between casual and dress shoes. These would become toxic hazards after about a year of wear, and you could just scrub them with a toothbrush. Their low price point allowed for replacement when absolutely necessary, but no one ever did.

Wellington style work boots were another participant in the pre-iPhone era Fraternity man’s footwear lineup. The Justin work boots were a go-to, as well as the Red Wing 1155s. There were cowboy boots and Bean Boots, but they were spotty depending on the campus. By the end of Junior year, all three were at the bottom of the closet.

Here’s what’s funny about all-of-the-above style: I still wear 90% of it. It’s funny looking at the images above and thinking ‘yeah, my closet still looks a lot like this’. It’s funny how this style resonates.

I’ll ask you, dear readers, what is your take? What was it like on your campus? What did I miss?

You had to go no socks with the penny loafers so everyone could see your ankle letters tattooReplyCancel

Jeff05/05/2016 - 9:15 AM

This may have phased out by this time but I remember two more footwear trends in the early/mid-’90’s that were big. The hiking boot (Vasque Sundowners beat to hell) and shorts look as well as the original Teva (royal blue or hunter green)sandal. Nothing said, “summer frat guy” like a defined “Teva” foot tan when returning to school in the fall.ReplyCancel

I likewise still wear 90% of this. The classics never go out of play.ReplyCancel

Robin05/05/2016 - 9:21 AM

Pretty spot-on. I arrived on campus in 2000 from the West Coast with lots of fleece and Gore-Tex and was told how preppy I was, when my style was anything but.

I would, however, quibble with the notion that Patagonia didn’t have as many crazy designs as they do now. Remember the Aztec print Snap-Ts from the early-90s, and all the teal and purple?ReplyCancel

Sean05/05/2016 - 9:32 AM

Great post. Nailed it. Corduroy Breckenridge hat, Patagonia polo, you forgot the ubiquitous Patagonia frat vest (at UVA at least), a pair of polo Andrew shorts that practically deteriorated on my person by fourth year and a pair of well worn in Birkenstocks. A uniform that treated me well in the good ole days.ReplyCancel

Kevin05/05/2016 - 9:44 AM

Great post. Definitely had a pair of oakley’s hit the back of a drawer during rush. What? we all make mistakes. Agree on the Andrew shorts, I think I still have a pair from college I have no chance of ever fitting into again.ReplyCancel

Doc05/05/2016 - 9:48 AM

This was probably the best post you’ve had. Very nostalgic. I still wear pretty much all of the same stuff. It’s that the point of fraternity dress though? To carry you into adulthood? The only difference I have mostly is golf shirts have pretty much replaced basic polos. I thought Costas were already on the scene though? I think I got my first pair in 02. Anyway, great post.ReplyCancel

Madison Roberts05/05/2016 - 9:56 AM

One of my favorite articles you’ve written. Brings back awesome memories of yes . . . the good ole days!ReplyCancel

William05/05/2016 - 9:56 AM

While all of those shoes were optional, three were obligatory: Topsiders, grey NB 990s, and sandals (for the aforementioned letter tattoo). In the early 2000s at my school, Rainbow sandals and later Chacos were appropriate.ReplyCancel

Trip05/05/2016 - 10:31 AM

I laughed out loud at the line “That was a trashy, preemptive move by people who would go on to frost their tips.”ReplyCancel

James05/05/2016 - 10:33 AM

This is one of the Top 10 RCS posts! I pledged in 2003, catching the tail end of this era, and still wear 90% of this stuff as well. Still have a bunch of the college are stuff too though it’s a fight to keep the wife from throwing out old tshirts and oxfords….ReplyCancel

Craig03/08/2017 - 5:14 PM

Im from this era but I went to school in the Northeast, more Northface then Patagonia at the time, jam band shirts were very popular. This was a special time, pre iphone and pre-facebookReplyCancel

Nacho05/05/2016 - 10:35 AM

Late 80’s early 90’s ACC Greek. Substitute the Standup shorts with OP cords, Duckhead khakis and a pair of Vaurnet glacier glasses.ReplyCancel

JT05/05/2016 - 11:11 AM

Pledged in ’02, spot on. This past weekend I was looking at old photos (probably taken with a disposable kodak) and was also struck by the difference with today’s look. Sure, the broad strokes may be the same but somehow everything seemed more organic in the pre-iphone, pre-online shopping days. Now, there are ready made new companies offering a whole line of a fraternity “kit” that one can order without a trip to Dumas in Charleston the Buckhead Orvis, etc. The result is that the individual pieces are no longer just picked up along the way of a good time.

Also, conspicuously absent among the footwear selections are rainbows and sperrys. Those were pretty much daily campus wear: rainbows until it was too cold and then the sperrys would come out.

Great post – spot on. I still wear the majority of this stuff, and prefer it to the current look for fraternity guys wear grungy, thrift store clothes, and basketball jerseys.ReplyCancel

Joseph05/05/2016 - 1:54 PM

Great post — A real walk down memory lane. Along with many others, this remains my casual go-to garb. Rainbow sandals and the Columbia fishing shirts (before everyone and their dog wore them) were a staple in the TX fraternity scene.ReplyCancel

In addition to the Wallabees becoming “toxic hazards” after a year of wear, they lost their “grip” and became as dangerous and as lethal as spraying a can of Pam on the floor – especially in more wet weather.ReplyCancel

EWK05/05/2016 - 2:28 PM

The Wallabees at the one year mark also lost their “grip” and became as lethal as walking on a floor sprayed with Pam – especially on the floor of the beer-soaked Fraternity basement.ReplyCancel

RJC05/05/2016 - 2:46 PM

I don’t remember Wayfairers that early. I bought a pair in ’08, and they were enough of a novelty that I got a lot of comments on them. When I was at UGA in ’99, there were a lot of Smith, Revo and other Ray Ban styles.ReplyCancel

Josh Parks05/05/2016 - 10:17 PM

Wow. I just shed a tear reading this! Spot on. Truth be told I still ocassionally rock a Panic shirt!ReplyCancel

BMA05/06/2016 - 10:52 AM

Perchance did you go to Georgia Tech. From the sounds of it you were in Atlanta and we have us, GSU, and kennesaw, but Tech has the largest greek scene.ReplyCancel

Mark05/06/2016 - 11:10 AM

Very entertaining and brings back great memories. I’m pushing 50 and my wife says I dress like a 80s frat boy. Hey, at least we were onto something that lasted. By the way, I was at West Georgia and my little sister returned from UGA orientation in ’87 and said “cut off your Duckheads, it’s cool in Athens!”.ReplyCancel

This could be your best post yet. I pledged in 03 and thank God it was pre-iPhone. Costas were everybody’s go to, GDIs hadn’t discovered them yet. Others mentioned it but Chacos, Rainbows, and Topsiders are also missing from your list. Don’t forget about the drawstring, elastic waist, short inseam Polo shorts. Southern Proper makes a version now. There could also be a whole category on random outdoors gear that was mixed in like PFG shirts, hunting jackets, etc.ReplyCancel

Ryan05/08/2016 - 1:50 PM

Almost spot on. Only point of contention, I was at Auburn from ’96-’00 and we all had Costas.ReplyCancel

Joel05/08/2016 - 8:01 PM

There is not one HAT on this post. Those are CAPS. Why can’t men use the proper names for clothing?

Same with, in other spaces, cleats and spikes. Baseball players, track athletes, and golfers wear spikes. Football players wear cleats.ReplyCancel

I attended an Atl area college and I can say you captured the Early-Mid 80’s Greek look pretty well. I would suggest a few additions: Topsiders, Bean Boots in winter. Shetland crewneck sweaters a size larger than you needed- your little sister/ GF would steal it. Baracuda (or similar) jacket. Grey Herringbone Harris Tweed coat was an acceptable NBB substitute in winter. Madras short sleeve shirts, and shorts. Tail end of authentic Lacoste Alligator shirt era (before disappearing then coming back in the late 90’s). RayBan Aviators- Gold Frame, G2 lens, wrap-around temples. Socks ? Never. BB, Stocktons and Muses were the go-to places in Atlanta, along with a few small local “collegiate” mens shops, one in Buckhead and the other near Tech.ReplyCancel

Landy05/09/2016 - 10:27 AM

Went to school in the mid-late 00’s and everything on this list was pretty much a staple. You could find The Game hats when I was in school although they fit very small which didn’t work for my 7 3/4″ head. This article serves as a reminder I probably need to ditch my freshmen year Sperry’s and Wallabees which I haven’t worn in yearsReplyCancel

Thomas05/14/2016 - 5:06 PM

I have the same sized head or bigger. Where do you find hats?ReplyCancel

Landy07/25/2016 - 5:00 PM

Since JRS reposted this link you’re in luck. Smathers & Branson hats fit me great. Outside that it can be a bit of a crapshoot with a lot of trail and error. I wear my hair much shorter (and have much less) these days so my hat size is probably a bit smaller nowReplyCancel

Bent05/09/2016 - 12:28 PM

Great post, I was greek from 2001-2006 in the southeast. Replace Northface jacket with Mountain Hardwear and add a pair of Aftco shorts, a Guy Harvey t-shirt (before they were everywhere), and Lacoste polos (before they fell out of favor).ReplyCancel

nachdrock05/11/2016 - 12:29 AM

not to be that (shredder) guy, but…the kids we looked for on lot style…. #WHITEHATS #CUSTIESReplyCancel

[…] is a body of water, gym equipment, yardwork, and/or an afternoon on the couch. Today, besides the updated Fraternity-style t-shirts, most t-shirts today are some sort of graphic, v-neck, ‘fashion forward’ design that […]ReplyCancel

WK05/13/2016 - 10:40 AM

Love the new expanded articles and opinions. Even when in genial disagreement, it’s a great read and a regular stop on my web travels. Now for a whiny, petty, side note from a professional editor: please, please stop re-using the same establishing phrase in one article over and over (i.e. pre-iPhone era). Keep up the greatness!ReplyCancel

MEK05/13/2016 - 12:12 PM

Little boxes on the hillside,
Little boxes made of ticky tacky,1
Little boxes on the hillside,
Little boxes all the same.
There’s a green one and a pink one
And a blue one and a yellow one,
And they’re all made out of ticky tacky
And they all look just the same.

And the people in the houses
All went to the university,
Where they were put in boxes
And they came out all the same,
And there’s doctors and lawyers,
And business executives,
And they’re all made out of ticky tacky
And they all look just the same.

And they all play on the golf course
And drink their martinis dry,
And they all have pretty children
And the children go to school,
And the children go to summer camp
And then to the university,
Where they are put in boxes
And they come out all the same.

And the boys go into business
And marry and raise a family
In boxes made of ticky tacky
And they all look just the same.
There’s a green one and a pink one
And a blue one and a yellow one,
And they’re all made out of ticky tacky
And they all look just the same.ReplyCancel

Stephen06/02/2016 - 2:30 PM

One addition…Columbia Half Moon PFG shorts for any sort of outdoor activity.ReplyCancel

[…] round up of some of the coolest, and often forgotten relic of the glorious 80’s and 90’s…especially in fraternity culture: Corduroy hats. These ran the show during the colder months, and usually trickled into the […]ReplyCancel