My commute is 6 miles, but it can take a full hour, and every car that's not covered in visible damage has the insignia of an international aid organisation on it. In places the road is... basically cartographic fiction, and that's going up into what seems to be the poshest suburb. Many people, perhaps the majority, live without flush toilets, and a significant proportion don't have a water source at home, even in town. 1 in 12 has had cholera since the UN brought that to Haïti.

In the midst of all this, I see billboards for American poultry, and a hand-painted banner advertising English classes, "bitcoin accepted". And a lot of really great painting and ironwork, whether it's storefront murals and fixtures or artwork for sale. Life is so hard here that it's obvious even watching through the window of the SUV that USAID sends to pick me up each morning, but there are plenty of people able to make some beautiful even so.