Story so far:
The door switch went and blew the module pcb too. Got a replacement switch and a reconditioned module.

Thought I had correctly noted where each connector on the pcb went but I now have nothing connected to the section of the board marked 'TEMP'. Is this correct?

Does anyone have module connection details for this machine??

Anyhow, without anything connected to 'TEMP', I’ve tested a wash cycle. This completes successfully but at the start of the drying phase, the fan powers up (for about 10 secs), then switches off. The door can then be opened immediately.

Are these two (connectors and non-drying) related or is the non-drying a different fault?

I've also checked the thermal cutout at the top of the machine and have continuity.

There is no connection on the 'temp' position on this machine, nothing to do with the dryer cycle. Can the door be opened when it is filling. is there a few seconds delay before the machine starts ? It does sound like you have either incorrectly wired the control unit or the reconditioned one is faulty, where did you obtain it? Also possible that when the tracks on the timer PCB blew it may have damaged the contacts in the edge connector blocks.

That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.

Sheikey wrote: the fan powers up (for about 10 secs), then switches off. The door can then be opened immediately.

This bit puzzles me, The machine should not function at all until the door is locked, and after locking the interlock should always take around a minute to release, even if you unplugged the machine. May suggest that further damage has been done to the machine when it blew, possibly the dryer timer may have suffered.

When you say the two green connectors, I can only think of one green connector, ( I don't have a machine in front of me ) which fits on the top edge with two black wires going down to the pump???

I know from personal experience that some of the plugs will fit on more than one slot on the PCB, and some of the functions will still work if they are incorrect. Difficult to advise you anymore from this distance. The one plug that is often damaged is the top one that fits nearest the front of the control unit.
If you can take a picture of your control unit with the connections in situ or do a rough sketch I would at least be able to check for any anomolies.

That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.

All look to be in the correct positions, I'm assuming that the blue connector on the botton edge is not exactly adjacent to the five terminal plug. The two black wires from the green plug on the top of the board should go down to the pump and those from the bottom of the board should go to the heater temp control device. Its a pity you don't have the original timer, in over 90% of cases a link wire and a simple soldering job is all that is needed, I rarely replace a control unit for this fault.

I'm afraid that from this distance I cannot think of anything else that could be causing your problems, possibly a faulty dryer timer or other wiring dislodged, but that would be pure speculation.

That which can be asserted without evidence, can be dismissed without evidence.

Whilst removing the board to check it for the nth time I found out that not all the pins on the connector marked 4 on my diagram were making contact with board. I could not see this with the board in situ. Must have been pushed out by some of the wires when I put the board back.