Wednesday, July 25, 2012

MANGO-THE HOME OF THE NOBLE MOSCATO GRAPE AND ITS
MOST FAMOUS DERIVATIVE, ASTI SPUMANTE

Story and photo gallery by Dwight Casimere

MANGO, ITALY—If you want to taste the great wines
of the Moscato, such as Asti Spumante, this is the place.

The Moscato grape, is one of the most famous
and widely produced of the region. Moscato takes many different forms and
contours. It can be sparkling, like champagne, lightly sparkling, something
they call “frizzanti”, or it can be made into a still wine.

The
word “Spumante” literally means ‘sparkling.’ That is the most popular
incarnation of the Moscato grape and the one which is having a tremendous
resurgence, taking the wine-drinking public, particularly in the U.S., by
storm.

Here in the hallowed confines of a 13th Century Castle, that is the
headquarters of Enoteca Regionale Di Mango, one of 12 regional wine public
information centers in the heart of the Piemonte, the president of the
Enoteca Regionale di Mango, Valter Bera is holding court in the vaulted
ceilinged main hall, introducing a panel of young, talented wine producers and
conducting a tasting of their unique and, in some cases, rare offerings.
Here are the highlights of this historic tasting, the first of its kind
conducted for the benefit of an assemblage of a half dozen of the world’s
top wine writers on an exclusive Wine Education tour of Piemonte, organized by
noted wine author and expert Paul Balke, whose excellent treatise,
"Piemonte Wine and Travel Atlas (with Valle d'Aosta and Liguria available
at Eataly, New York)) served as the resource and authoritative reference
for this comprehensive journey.

Chiaror Sul Masso($26)-This
wine has an immediate strongly mineral presence. It is a stunning example of a
truly a unique white varietal. The vineyards are located in the lush hills
Colli Tortonesi, situated in Alessandria province. According to the winemaker,
it is the first sparkling Timorasso made. The winery is
strategically located between four regions, each of them lending a
distinct and beneficial characteristic. The vines get the sea air from Liguria
in the south of Piemonte. The hills with their rich mixture of soils, provide
it's minerality, which is further amplified by rich thermal waters running
underground. The winemaker cited as a unique feature, the fact that there is a
huge bay laurel tree on the property that serves as a local
landmark and symbol of the superior attributes of the soil, which is special to
everything that grows in it. Every detail is paid attention to and
nurtured to fruition by the winemaker. He designed the labels for each of his wines
himself and named each of the wines with an eye toward poetry and ties to
music. This is a light sparkling wine with crisp notes of white peaches
and apricots and a long, clean finish. This wine is great as an aperitif or an
accompaniment to light salads and soft cheeses.

Rugiada del
Mattino –“morning dew”2009 ($29) This is an unfiltered wine produced by the
company "I Carpini." The wine is a blend of strictly local grapes;
Favorita, Cortese (and Timorasso.
The wine is a complete expression of these local grapes with a bright, fresh
profile that reflects its name, “morning dew.” The winemaker and owner,
Paolo Ghislandi prepares this wine with the utmost care and is the creator of
its dazzling flavor profile and design. The name of the wine, "morning
dew," is also of his creation. It could not have been more aptly named.
The taste is like that of ripe fruit with a distinct undertone expressing the
fact that there are lots of minerals in there. Each of the bottles are
numbered, reflecting the care that goes into the winemaking process. The grapes
are a combination of local vines that express the unique territory of the vine
stock. Because the grapes are grown on a a hill, with varying exposures to sun
and wind, winemaker had to carefully plan ahead of time so that grapes
could ripen at the same time to create the blend. He worked out a plan of
action by observing how fast the grass grew on various parts of the hill so
that he could plan the ripening process. "It was like being the conductor
of an orchestra in the planning and planting of the grapes," Paolo shared.
From the taste of the wine, with its floral notes of aromatic persistence and
soft, savory tastes of lemons and wild sage, this is a warm, embracing wine
that marks Paolo Ghislandi as a true Maestro!

Brezza d’Estate
"summer breeze" 2007 ($32) This is a fresh, white wine that has the
capability of being aged up to 15 years. A well-structured wine made from 100%
timorasso grape, it is a masterpiece that belies the fact that winemaker Paolo
Ghislandi started winemaking as a hobby. He explained that he just recently
left his normal day job as an IT engineer and is now following his heart
and passion for winemaking. Paolo Ghislandi represents a ‘new breed’ of
winemaker in the region. Unilke many, who are following in the footsteps of
their forebears as the third or fourth generation of a winemaking dynasty,
Paolo’s ‘ ‘day job’ was as a computer professional with a sideline passion for
wine that has now consumed his entire attention.

Colli Tortonesi
Timorasso Dertona 2009 ($26) Winemaker Claudio Marriotto was
unfortunately obliged to be in his cellar due to a problem with bottling. His
well-nurtured wines are also from the rich Tortona hills of the Piemonte.
His technique is meticulous, involving daily contact with the vines and
exercising great care in every step of the winemaking process. His wines are
considered among the best from the Tortona hills and are prized by
connoisseurs. The names of the whites include Coccalino, made from the local
Cortese grape ($32), Orange Blossom ($29), but it is his reds that best
represent the rare flavor profile and structure to be derived from grapes grown
on the 'red hill.' Only the best grapes are used in his outstanding Derthona.
The wine is made from the Timorasso grape. The exceptional balance and firm
structure make this a wine that can be enjoyed now, or it can be aged to reveal
its true depth and character. Claudio Mariotto's wines were delicious. It is a
pity he was not present to offer a full tasting of his red wines, which are
touted by many, including his fellow winemakers, throughout the region.

Claudio
Mariotto Pitasso 2004 ($39) This is a nicely aged dry white wine with
hazelnut notes. Underlying minerality gives it a firm structure. Perfect for
aging, it has a high alcohol content of 14-14.5% . This is a great after dinner
wine that strikes a delicate balance between sweetness and acidity. A great
cigar wine or one to go with strong, pungent cheeses. If you like a surprise in
your mouth, this is the one. It's nice and chewy!

The tasting at
Enoteca Regionale di Mango reflected both the ancient tradition of winemaking
in the Mango region, and the fresh outlook of a group of young, innovative and
inspired winemakers.

Monday, July 2, 2012

Italian wines form
the Upper Piedmont: Prestigious wines at the foot of the Monte Rose Massif

GHEMME, ITALY---Piemonte is one of the most varied regions of
the wine world. The majestic backdrop of the Italian Alps is visible at almost
every point. In Monferrato to the
south, the infinite range of vineyards and vines lends the region its singular
charm. The smell of Jasmine is
everywhere. From the north to the south, vineyards dot the landscape like a
string of pearls, each with a distinctive treasure to reveal.

A light rain descended as our tour bus
pulled into the Agriturismo “Il Cavenago” winery in the Upper Piedmont, one of
Italy’s most lush and historic wine producing regions. In attendance were a
dozen or so wine producers from the area presenting a broad spectrum of wines
representing the native varietals of the region. Some of the grapes are
familiar to wine lovers; Nebbiolo, Gattinara and Barbera. Others, such as
Ghemme, Boca and Canavese date back to antiquity and are little known outside this
closely-knit cluster of small wineries. With growing curiosity over Italian
wines and inquisitive buying public, the word is quickly spreading over the
beauty and complexity of the wines of his historic region.

Upper Piedmont is a
diverse land area that includes mountains, hills and plains. The cold winds
that descend from the Monte Rosa Massif bring with them extreme temperature
shifts that have a dramatic impact on the grapes.

The diverse soil
types and climatic variations produce wine of astounding complexity. Extreme
temperature changes between night and day bring out a variety of aromatic
components ranging from herbs to spices, which make the wines compatible with a
broad range of foods. That is the singular most intriguing aspect of the wines
of the Upper Piedmont.

A tasting tour of
the wines provided an introduction to a virtual rainbow of flavor profiles
ranging from earthy and herbaceous to sweet and aromatic.

-Ioppa Ghemme 2005
Santa Fe ($40). This wine from winemaker Polo Minuto is a stunning
representation of the Nebbilo grape. A blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina,
this is a medium dry wine with a pronounced clear and bright color. Terrific
for just drinking as a “meditation” wine, it distinguishes itself by also being
compatible with game meats, cured meats and salumi and hard cheeses. A
delightful aromatic goat’s milk cheese consumed at breakfast would have been a
perfect accompaniment!

-Azienda agricola
Antoniolo Gattinara DOCG Classico 2007 ($20). Winemaker Lorella Antoniolo is
also the president of the local wine consortium and an outspoken champion of
the wines of Gattinara. The quality of the wine is characterized by the factors
of climate, soil and grape variety. Volcanic soil gives the wine its pronounced
acidity as well as a distinct mineral quality. For a red, the wine is extremely versatile. I had it with a
local fish variety, similar to swordfish. The wine cut perfectly through the
oil of the fleshy whitefish and created a delightful sensation in the mouth.

-Halle’ Sparkling
Rose’ from Colline Novaresi($35) showed the versatility of the Nebbbiolo grape.
Consisting of 100% Nebbiolo, the wine is made from the earliest maturing
grapes, according to winemaker Enrico Crola of Azienda Vitivinicola Enrico
Crola. The wine is distinctive because of its perfect balance; it has the right
acidity without possessing an excessive alcohol level. This makes it an
appealing aperitif with enough complexity to carry it into a meal of fish,
lighter meats such a poultry, lamb or veal and a variety of salads and cheeses.
The first in the territory to produce this type of wine, it is re-fermented
entirely in the bottle according to the “Metodo Classico.”

These are just a few
of the viticultural treasures experienced in this privileged land where passion
and history converge to make wines of poetic proportion and noble expression.

Lush panaromas
unfolded as we ascended to the Monferrato to the south. This is a region full
of history and tradition. With its medieval castles and towering cathedrals, it
is a land of myth and majesty.
This is the world where Barbera reigns supreme. It is also the
birthplace of Moscato, the sweet, succulent grape that is now taking the U.S.
wine drinking public by storm. Alto Monferatto is an undiscovered beauty whose
wines are a revelation. They are meant to go with food and present many
challenges to the untrained palate. However, if you dig beyond your prejudices
and accept the wines at face value and consider the endless possibilities that
matching varied cuisines with the wines can present, you will find a treasure
trove of real beauties as I did during an extensive tasting at the estate of
Mauro Gaudio.

Monferatto is
positioned along the Po river. It is redolent of a time when kings and knights
ruled the city states that dominated the scene. Many myths surround the origins
of the name, the most logical being that it is named for the fertile Mons ferax
hills. In the Middle Ages, many kings and conquerors have passed through
Monferrato, the armies raging wars, sieges and bloody battles that shaped the
boundaries of this vast region, but never disfigured its inherent glory.
Despire the ravages of foreign invaders, the land survived and now produces
some of the finest examples of Italian vinification that the wine-loving world
enjoys.

Our day began with
the tasting at Gaudio estate, where I tasted many spectacular examples of
Barbera D’Asti and Barbera del Monferrato and ended with a fabulous dinner at
the castle of Gabiano.

About Me

Dwight The Wine Doctor is a Certified Sommelier. He has covered VinItaly in Verona,Italy for the past several years, and was a judge for both the 2012 and 2013 International Wine Competition in Verona. He has also covered the London Wine Fair, Aspen Wine and Food Classic, New Orleans Wine Experience,South Beach and New York Wine and Food Festivals, Sonoma Wine Country Weekend and the Landmark Tutorial in Barossa Valley near Adelaide, Australia. His travels have also taken him to Marrakech, Morocco and Galway, Ireland. In addition to being a wine writer, he is a connoisseur and reviewer of the fine arts, including reviews of the New York Philharmonic, Chicago Symphony Orchestra, Metropolitan Opera and Lyric Opera in Chicago.His wide-ranging reviews also include Jazz At Lincoln Center, American Ballet Theatre, Alvin Ailey Dance and Art Basel Miami.