Malaysian Cuisines

This funky joint (with two Manhattan outposts) peddles some seriously exciting Malaysian food. And if you’ve never sampled Malaysian before, this is the place to do it. The servers are young, faded, rock ‘n’ roll t-shirt types and the dining room is packed with a laidback, but lively crowd gnawing on fiery chicken wings and fatty duck. Start with a rum and coconut cocktail served in a coconut shell with a sugar cane swizzle.

Cuisine: Malaysian Vibe: Funky UWS bustle Occasion: Neighborhood bites, casual date, kid-friendly Don’t Miss: Scallop satay, short rib Rendang, watermelon pickle & crispy pork Price: Appetizers $7, entrees $1 Reservations: Accepted Phone: (212) 496-2722 Location: 2970 Broadway, between 76th and 77th Sts. I think you can taste when the chef’s not in the kitchen. On the chef’s night off, the food’s never quite the same. It’s a little like going to the theater and finding out you got stuck with the understudy. Of course, at a restaurant, they never tell you that kind of thing. Can you imagine? The server hands you a menu and says, “Welcome to Fatty Crab. Tonight, the part of the chef will be played by one of the line cooks. Can I get you a cocktail?” That’s how I felt the last time I...