A few weeks ago my wife noticed that wash loads seemed to be inadequately drained at the end of the wash. The loads weren't "dripping"-wet, but were still too damp and heavy to dry properly in our dryer.

First I did a quick websearch, and before doing sufficient research I ordered a replacement lid-lock switch from RepairClinic.org. (PS - those guys have always been great, IMO.) Once I received the part, I installed it and ran a test load with an Affresh tablet and the clean-washer cycle. Within a few minutes the washer stopped making any noises, and the Lid Lock LED began blinking. Eventually the time remaining counted down and the washer illuminated the 'Done' indicator and unlocked the lid. The Affresh tablet was still mostly there, though obviously it had been wet and was a little bit worn.

I turned the washer on its back and the belt is still around the pulley.

I tried to run a small load of real clothes, hoping I'd get lucky and after my tinkering things would have magically fixed themselves. The clothes are still damp. Several times I've run the 'Drain and Spin' cycle. Each time, the washer locks the lid & senses, indicates the load will take about 13 minutes, and then begins running for a minute or so. After about a minute all noises stop, the Lid Lock light begins blinking, and eventually the washer reports that it is Done - i.e., the Lid Lock goes out, the lid unlocks, and the Done LED lights up.

Given that all of the mechanical actions seem to work fine when I run the manual tests I am hopeful the problem isn't something expensive like a transmission or motor component. But that leaves the electronics, and I can't believe a basic computer or circuit such as what I'd expect here would fail in only about 30 months.

do the tachometer test in the manual . F7E1 and F7E7 most likely means your actuator is bad. Another possibility is a wire harness issue. I find that 99 out of 100 it is the actuator. THe actuator has the shifter to shift from agitate to spin and also the tach.

Ohm out the wiring harness as well. I have replaced several of them because it loses continuity when it starts to move the harness. Usually the wires between the cap and motor are losing continuity. The factory pulls the zip ties too tight and causes the thin gauge wire strands in the harness to break