Would you guys go with replacing the exact part that came off? or the one that the model number calls for. The exact one that came off is cheaper & includes the capacitor. The one the model number calls for does not include the capacitor. And in that case, would you swap out the capacitor as well?

I guess I'm inclined to get the model part, plus a new capacitor, thinking that some other tech just replaced the relay with what was on his truck at one time.

Yeah, I looked for that. There's no mention of a substitution. I figure if there is a problem, I can point to the model number for the one I replace, but if I match the old one, I'd have to produce it to prove that I swapped whats there now.

I know its a different relay, but it is what was there. I identified it by the shape. I'm assuming it could not have the exact(!) same shape if it was from a different manufacturer. Also, the capacitor on it (in another photo) has a GE logo.

Anyway, I ordered the one that the model number called for. I figure this one might have been put there by some other tech who had it on his truck.

I didn't check the control board w/o manual/tech sheet, but will go back. I've very little experience with the boards. It looks like I have the manual you cut that out of, at least I have the same page in the one I'm using. With the cold controls I indicated, you can't get into the diagnostics that my manual indicates.

The orange line to the compressor, which I'm guessing comes from J7/9, is completely dead. The wiring diagram from my manual shows a tab1 black, but the board schematic does not.

If no juice at j7/9 it looks like a dead control board to me, to the extent I can go w/out the exact manual/tech sheet.

31-9072 is what I've been looking at. The fact that one has diagnostics, and the one I have doesn't leads me to believe that there might be a substantive difference.

Thanks for your input on this. I cringe at the thought of replacing a board, and not fixing the problem. These folks are on the fence for repairing this thing, and the relay is necessary. Adding a board AP4436216 to it jumps the price up. I can sell it if it fixes it, but if it doesn't...

There was 120v at J7/9. I checked continuity to the relay, and it was good. Put the relay back on, nothing. Pulled off relay, and checked voltage through it, 120v.

Put cheater cord w/ hard start back on & compressor started up. Put fridge back together & tried again. Nothing. Click...Click. Felt compressor, and it was jolting ever so slightly w/ every click.

Reasoned that the compressor was on its way out. Offered hardstart option to customer. Customer declined hardstart or new compressor.

Bye Bye fridge.

This is the second time in two weeks that I've had a wacky compressor. Windings check out, no grounding, starts w/ hardstart, not w/ oem relay. Frustrating. Gotta start using a cheater cord w/ cheap generic relay.

The newer compressors will run on a hard start, for a very short time then fail ,they need the relay designed for them.With the newer control boards it is very important that they be matched as designed. The older compressors we all installed hard starts even used them in place of relays a lot. The new compressors that does not work.