December 1997

Topsham,
Devon 8 December 1997
Oh dear. Just as we had all begun to think that it was safe to eat
beef again, this week's government ban on the sale of beef on the
bone due to possible links with a new strain of CJD (the human equivalent
of BSE or "mad cow disease") has made us all think again. Is there
a real health risk and if so, should all beef be banned? Or is the
risk so miniscule as to be virtually non-existent? The point is that
these off-the-cuff pronouncements leave us all in doubt and wondering
what to do. At the least, it means no wing rib of beef this New Year's
Eve, and, more importantly, no reduced demi-glace to use as a base
for rich classic sauces.For
the record, though, and at the time of writing, we still are eating
beef occasionally and will continue to do so not least because we
continue to have faith in our excellent local butchers, both Arthurs
of Fore Street, Topsham, which supplies only prime Scotch beef, mainly
from the Aberdeen Angus breed, and G Davd, Clyst St George (in the
Picfresh shop), whose beef is home-reared and is mainly from the prime
Red Devon breed. Indeed, we have lately greatly enjoyed this classic
beef braised in Belgium beer, a warming casserole that is easy to
make and delicious with fluffy mashed potatoes, a dish for winter
now that the weather has turned so bitterly cold these last few days.

Beef
Braised in Belgium Beer

While
this warming casserole can be made with any type of robustly flavoured
beer such as English bitter or Irish stout, we think that the wine-like,
high gravity Trappist beers from Belgium give outstanding results.
Our favourite is the outrageously strong Abbot from the Sint-Sixtus
monastery at Westvleteren, though this may be difficult to track down
unless you visit the monastery itself. More readily accessible and
also excellent include Chimay's "blue top" or Grande Reserve beers
or the outstandingly hoppy Orval. And of course make sure and drink
the same beer that you use for cooking!

900
g/ 2 lbs best stewing steak

600
ml/ 1 pint Belgium Trappist beer

2 red
onions, sliced

6 carrots,
sliced

1 tbsp
brown sugar

3 bay
leaves

2 sprigs
of thyme

Salt
and freshly ground black pepper

450
g/ 1 lb dried prunes

In a
large casserole, marinate the beef with all the remaining ingredients
for about a day. Bring slowly to the boil on top of the stove and
skim frequently. Cover and place in a moderate oven (160° C/325°
F) for 2-2 1/2 hours. Adjust the seasoning and serve hot with mashed
potatoes.

Drink
Suggestion: The same beer that was used in cooking; alternatively,
mixing beer-cooked foods with wine causes no problems, so try a not
overly tannic but full red such as a good Beaujolais cru or
a Burgundy from Rully, Montagny or the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.