I installed a XD700/5 in my daughters car (4x 6.5" drivers, 1x sub) and I have to say I was blown away. I had no idea such a small unit could pack so much wallop. Its not the most powerful amp I have heard but very loud & clean. I drove 2 x 12" subs in a ported box in her small car and the mirrors were rattling inside and out, the mud started to fall out from under the car, I thought her eyes were going go pop out of her head. She wasn't sure she wanted to take up that much trunk space for the sub box but after she heard it, well, it's still there.
I will only be driving 6.5"' & tweets with mine so it should work just fine.

@latinamaxima- I'll be looking forward to following your build this fall!

Just a quick update. I have reworked the under-seat rack to now house the amps & processor brain box, plus I built a new behind-the-seat power distribution block/ inverter mount. I have them to the point of being primed.

I'm just sitting here trying to decide whether to tackle the door speaker pods next so I can paint everything at once or finish up the rear seat and console area first (sound deadened and installed) then tackle the door speakers.

Here's some the of process for the the amp/distro/inverter block pieces:

So stay tuned for the next episode of "Will he ever finish that Ford?"

All Parts are Now Fabricated....I Think

Yup, I think I am actually done making stuff for this project, the front door speaker assemblies should be the last pieces I have to make from scratch and here they are:

That's 2 JL Audio C5's in each door plus a tweeter.

I have to say these were a challenge, they had to line up with the holes in the doors, the factory hole & the one I made. There was 0 clearance for extra height beyond the current height of the door panel where the door closed against the dash and they had to follow the contour of the door panel itself. I'm anxious to actually see them installed... I think...

Thanks Pierre and thanks to Dluvr22 for pointing that out ............

I never would have though the sickness could get to this level...

Got the truck out of the garage last night and the garage somewhat cleaned up. I sanded the speaker mounting pieces and bought a rattle can of Duplicolor primer to save having to use the gun for such a small area. The stuff is crap, it's suppose to be a high build primer, it's just grey water,,,horrible. Plus the nozzle screwed up on it just as I got started so that helps, I can now return it and get my 10 bucks back.

So it looks like I have to get the gun out and shoot some proper 2K high build primer at it. Hopefully that will happen tonight then time for the balance of the paint work.

So I ended up using my 110v adapter which worked perfect. I powered it on the output side from the Carnetix 1900.
Notice the third wire required for HP.

As you know, I have an HP as well. I have not chopped up the brick yet to see if I have three wires or not. If I do, which wire went where on the Carnetix. When there are two wires, it's usually Power, and Ground. But what is the third for HP?

Hi Srad,
The third wire is an ID reference wire that comes from the brick. Without looking, I believe it was the blue one. I just stripped the brown & black & put a DVOM on them, plugged the 110v side of the brick into the A/C wall plug and checked for +19V. I THINK the brown was +19v & the black was grd but please check yours to make sure. It was a long time ago that I did it. if you can't get the 19v from those 2 wires, you'll have to strip the blue as well and add it into the testing.

Then unplug the wall side cord and remove the cord from the power brick completely, connect the +/- 19V output wires from the Carnetix P/S to the respective tested bared wires and that's it.
The brick must remain attached to provide the ID signal through the 3rd wire (blue I think) to keep the HP laptop happy. Kind of dumb but it worked for me.