In Yoshino By the mountains, the flowering Cherry blossoms: Simply for snow I did mistake them! Ki no Tomonori, from the Kokin Wakashū (c. 905) Of course I use “endless” in hyperbole, but looking at Mt. Yoshino from certain viewpoints would give you the impression that the crowds of cherry trees go on and on, down the other… Continue reading Visiting Mt. Yoshino and its endless cherry trees

Just a little ways off Kyoto is a small city called Uji, whose claim to fame is its green tea. More than the green tea, though, Uji has important cultural and historical significance. Being situated just south of Kyoto and north of Nara, Uji itself rose as a cultural center especially during the Heian period (794–1185)… Continue reading A Morning in Uji City

On our fourth day in Seoul, we slept for as long as we could and took our time with breakfast. Our goal was to visit nearby areas — the Jongmyo Shrine, Unhyeongung, the War Memorial, and whichever other place struck our (read: my) fancy. Unhyeongung used to be where the crown prince Gojong stayed before… Continue reading We (unintentionally) gatecrashed a wedding in Unhyeongung

This is probably Getting Old Me talking — I could pull all-nighters in college, but now, in my early 30s, I’m finding it more difficult to stay up beyond 10 PM — but I have mentioned before that you should stay in Insa-dong when you are in Seoul. Why? Let’s recap: First, many sights are… Continue reading Why Insa-dong should be your base in Seoul

Changdeokgung, built in the 1400s, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung was also burnt down during the 1592 Japanese invasion — not by the Japanese, but by citizens angry at their king for abandoning them — but it was the first palace to be rebuilt, in 1610. The royal court was thus moved here. Now,… Continue reading Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung (Hint: Visit the Secret Garden!)

Sure — the pen is mightier than the sword. But to keep the Joseon dynasty strong and glorious, both pen and sword had to be wielded by its greatest people. Gwanghwamun Square features two large statues. One is of Yi Sun-shin in a very badass pose, which perfectly befits his accomplishments. Admiral Yi found glory in… Continue reading From Gwanghamun Square to Gyeongbokgung