Contributed Comments

Comments: Headed out there this fall with some friends and camped out for 4 nights. Packs weighed 70 lbs heading up out of Phantom. A questionable decision for sure. But a great time. I think camping at Phantom is the most sensible option to climb this. Bring a pink tricam for the new pitch on the NE Arete.

Paul: I put my hands on some of that fixed tat in the Supai. It felt so wrong, and yet so right. Ooh, baby.

Olaf: Although we did it over several days instead of one, I can assure you that it... more >>

Comments: I climbed the Southeast Arete this weekend, and we were turned back from descending the Forbes route by ice and snow. The whole descent to the rappel is a snowfield, and the 10-foot dryfall is covered in ice. Not knowing the conditions of the great ramp, we decided to go the way we knew and descended the SE Arete instead.

We raided the summit gift cache for biners to bail from, so if you're climbing the SE Arete and pick up the gear, feel free to give it back to I'itoi; maybe anothe... more >>

We took Petroglyph canyon (the 1.4mi one) to the route, but on the way back decided to take an alternate route via the other canyon (when you hit the saddle, head down southeast instead of southwest). We ran into some pretty nasty slabs and had to jump over a 50-foot deep slot canyon to get to better stuff on the other side. Highly recommended. Decent trees to belay the jump, and just a few minutes of road-hiking to get back to the car.

Comments: This is a fantastic climb. Did it in 5 pitches, and never found the liebacks, so I think we took a different route for much of the climb. But still, it was 5.6 or so. We pretty much went straight up the middle of the arete. So if you get lost, just keep climbing and aim for the middle of and you'll be fine.

We got a little lost of the Forbes descent, but wound up backtracking and finding the anchor. The key is to make a hard right after the waterfall-like downclimb in the description.

Comments: Not sure if this is what juggy meant, but doing the first pitch of dislocation buttress to get to pine tree ledge is a great warmup. Starts with the dihedral that's pretty much exactly where the trail drops you off at the base of the slabs. After that pitch there's a nice little unroped traverse off to climber's left to start dislocation direct.