The Kwanzaa Kitchen

Food Tratitions From Africa And America

Help This Modern Celebration Find Its Heart

December 23, 1998|By Kristin Eddy, Tribune Staff Writer.

The soft light of candles, a harvest of fruit in a large serving bowl and accents of red and green throughout the table setting will be found in millions of holiday homes over the next few days. But these decorative elements have a unique symbolism quite apart from Christmas for African-American families celebrating Kwanzaa (which begins Saturday and continues through Jan. 1) with a series of cultural and spiritual festivities. Seven candles represent the principles of the holiday, such as unity, creativity and faith; the red and green are part of the table linens, also striped with black and gold, that honor African heritage.

Though this holiday has important, fixed symbols used to mark the cultural reaffirmation that Kwanzaa encourages, the food traditions still are evolving.

"Many people of African descent are using this time to rediscover their connections; foods are being used in a teaching way," says Ramon Price, chief curator of the DuSable Museum of African-American History, 740 E. 56th Pl. "It has caused more of us to look at the African diaspora and discover Brazilian food, Caribbean food. We've all learned about plantains; and Jamaican jerk chicken has become part of the table setting."

The relative youth of this holiday has played a part in the fluidity of the menu. Kwanzaa was created in 1966 by California State University professor Maulana Karenga to help African-Americans living through the civil rights struggles focus on and reclaim their rich African heritage. Over a week's time, celebrants honor their past and strengthen their purpose for the future through prayer, discussion, storytelling, music and the exchange of gifts.

A feast takes place the evening of Dec. 31. And on the table is an edible composition of the modern African-American experience.

"In the beginning it was sort of a continuation of what you would eat for Christmas and New Year's," says Kocoa Winbush, a food consultant and cooking teacher in the Chatham neighborhood who has been celebrating Kwanzaa for the last 10 years. "Chitterlings were definitely a part of the community table, and gumbo was very important. I like to do a soup with catfish and shrimp. Banana breadthat is definitely African.

"But it changes," Winbush says. "I would imagine that people in different parts of the country have different things on the table. But we've always looked at how to adapt; improvisation is something that has kept us going as a people."

Michael Smith, owner of the Taste of Cajun restaurant and catering business on the West Side, says his customers are getting away from traditional holiday foodsstuffing and roast turkey-and are asking for deep-fried turkey and jambalaya that have a more African influence.

What's important to the holiday, Winbush and others say, is that the foods reflect the joy of a feast and bring to mind some aspect of the culture.

"What Karenga attempted to do was promote the appreciation of African foods," Winbush says.

In her book "A Kwanzaa Celebration," Angela Shelf Medearis writes:

"We relish spicy okra gumbos, sesame-covered snacks, expertly seasoned greens, dried and smoked fish, helpings of black-eyed peas and rice, and handfuls of peanuts without ever really considering how these foods came to America . Choosing recipes that contain ingredients which can be traced back to Africa is a culinary way of celebrating the principles of Kwanzaa."

Price agrees. "Kwanzaa has really afforded the opportunity to do some great cultural study," he says.

Jessica B. Harris, a New York cookbook author and lecturer, says that Kwanzaa has a "pan-African outlook" that encourages celebrants to wear African dress and investigate customs from all over the continent.

Harris' newest book is "The Africa Cookbook" (Simon & Schuster, $25), and although her Southern roots mandate that her New Year's Day Kwanzaa feast include collard greens, black-eyed peas and rice, she also prepares something African, such as the Senegalese chicken stew she includes in the new book.

When preparing your own Kwanzaa meal, Harris has some suggestions from her previous book, "A Kwanzaa Keepsake":

The fruits and vegetables that represent the harvest aspect of the celebration could be chosen from African-American food traditions. Sweet potatoes, pumpkins and squashes, presented in straw baskets, give the table a golden accent; sugar cane, melons and mangoes are other possible centerpieces.

Ears of corn placed on the table represent the number of children in the household, although even childless homes are encouraged to put out an ear of corn to symbolize the responsibility of everyone for the welfare of children.