After a trail run in MDF i thought i would make my self some in Iroko .

Gaurds removed for photographic reasons .

Ive heard people saying Iroko was nasty stuff but ive never really had a problem with it untill i cut this board . Even with the extractor going i got a mouth full of the dust and had to stop the machine as i couldnt breath Masked up and on with the job .

Face and edge the boards ready for the thicknesser

Stack of prepared Iroko

I'm using stop mortice and tenons on these as they dont really need anything more i think . Cutting them by hand as they are only small

We've just fitted a home office into a study that had these shutters. Looked really good - from a distance. When you got up close you could see that they were just ok at best. The only thing that I couldn't work out is how you fix the adjusty thing to the slatty things, these ones had staples and the only way I could see how to do it is before it is assembled - how do you do yours Jase?

Maybe if I was a bit more patient I'd find out when you do it, but I want to know now!

I dont think making them thinner is a good idea as they are only 10mm as it is , with a 5.5mm hole to hold the pin . I do agree that they look chunky and need to look thinner . I think the ones in the shop notes i looked at with Barry where shaped like a wing which made the whole job complicated but gave the thinner look . Ill see what cutters i have tomorrow and see if i can get a chafer on them with a roundover type effect .

i was thinking you would cut the chamfer on the saw, and then roundover, it would surely be easier?or on the planer, you could cut the chamfer too. i think using the router for the chamfer would be more difficult.

does look better no matter what bob says about your hands are you going to do it before or after drilling and installing the pins? i do wonder though whether you might smooth the transition between the chamfer and the flat with a slight rounding, rather like cleaning up an arris? have you found an half round?

Done a bit more on these today . Now i am shaping the blades ive redone the drilling jig to take them shaped so i can run them off in longer lengths . Bit of a pain running a couple of hundred blades past the cutter four times The shelf supports i am using are the round 5mm /5.5mm and the shorter 5mm part fits the 10mm thick timber that holds the blades . Doing it this way means you cant slot the fixing pins in from the back so makes assembly a pain now . I suppose you could up the blade support timber to 15mm but i dont think that will look right I think Hafele sell the parts for these shutters but does anyone know the price of them ?

Not sure to be honest as most of the time has been working out how to do them and milling up my own timber .If it was a job i would buy in the timber PAR . The first one took about two days but the other three took a day once i knew what i wanted to do .

Thats the point of the thread Mr C No one had worked out how to do them as far as i know .

I've just found a firm in Manchester who quote-How much do shutters cost?Our Seattle range retails for £175 per square metre exactly. The Phoenix range retails for £220 (painted) or £240 (stains) per metre exactly. And the Vancouver range retails for £275 per metre exactly. Solid shutters vary in price according to the style used. A shaker style panel costs less to make than a raised panel in the Victorian/Regency style. To get an exact price go to our quotation/order or call us on 0161 788 9669

Assuming there is a reasonable installation charge on top there could be some good margins in these. The prices above refer to painted MDF, parasol wood? and the most expensive quote is cedar.

very nice mate, and well done for actually finishing something that has been around in your mind for about 3 years now.

i wonder if assembly might be easier if you did it rather like a newel post on a staircase, and had spacers that had half round holes at each end, and then slid up to surround the pin?? you could have them inside a rebate to secure them until glue up is finished

I cannot for the life of me work out why anyone in our northern light climate would want to block off that much of a window even when the blades are open, but if people are going to pay you to live in the dark, fair enough, take their cash.

It looks alot of work but its actually very easy . I'm kicking myself for not doing these years ago when they where all the rage and higher prices could be got for them . I have just waxed 44 blades and assembled two in one hour ten mins .