Ashamed to say, I've been shooting a bow for a long time and I have never thought about this until recently when I was setting up my wife's bow. Never really thought about there being any other way than the way I do it.

I can't say either way is "Right or Wrong", but more of a "Do what works for you." Kind of thing.

Take a look at the rudimentary drawing below.
The top pic is of the sight housing centered in the peep, and the bow is being raised to the corresponding pin for the yardage needed.

The bottom picture is as if you ignored the sight housing as it relates to the peep in order to center the pin needed for the shot, to the center of the peep.

Is there a "right or wrong" way?
Which do you use?

I can see the top pic as being more accurate and the way you should learn and teach, but I'll be honest, I've never used any other way besides the bottom pic, and I've won several local tournaments this way, which makes me say it's really preference.

I've always done option 1. Can't imagine trying to center the pin in the peep when the peep is so close to my eye. Maybe if you use a small diameter peep it would be easier. My peep pretty much fits perfect for my sight. I can center it on the sight housing and just see a little bit of the housing all the way around, so if an area all of a sudden disappeared, i kow i shifted and am off. To each their own, but for me, option 2 would take a lot longer to perfect, but like you, that's just the way I started and stayed

I don't shoot a lot, shame on me. I asked this same question a year or so ago and I think the con census was to center the sight not the pin. I was centering the pin before and saw some improvement when I switched. It did take a little getting used to. When I started shooting there aren't any round sights, they were just flat bars. I did say I didn't shoot a lot, but I've been shooting a long time!

Looking at that bubble is what always screws me up. My eye looks down just enough to see the level and it forces a change. When I look back up I can't see the top of the sight ring, so I adjust, and by then the level is off again. It's a loosing battle for me. Kinda why I like shooting trad so much in the off season... sights and bubbles, etc kinda hack me off. Guess I need to shot more often throughout the year, because come the opportunity to drop a deer, I tend to completely forget the level, just focus on centering the sight.

I haven't been shooting a bow long enough to have used the older slower bows and really large square pin housing of yesteryear. Too me, option 2 went away over 20 years ago when when bow speed really picked up thusly decreasing pin gap to the point where they could all be viewed as one group inside a standard peep.

The housing should ALWAYS be centered in the peep. The issue you're having is caused by raising the bow at the shoulder rather than tilting the torso at the waist to raise the bow, same principle as shooting down from a tree stand or downhill. You have to bend at the waist.

Actually, neither option is wrong.
Centering the sight housing usually allows for a larger peep, increasing low light visibility.
Centering pins causes a shooter to slightly "float" the anchor.
Both can be shot very accurately.
I prefer centering the housing myself, allowing me to use a larger peep and increasing low light visibility.
Shooters that use a moveable sight, kinda have both, but they are still "floating" their anchor.

I use to use option 2. Probably because I started shooting before peeps and round sights. I did use option 1 for a year but just was not as accurate as I am with 2. I don't use a peep anymore so it doesn't matter.

Actually, neither option is wrong.
Centering the sight housing usually allows for a larger peep, increasing low light visibility.
Centering pins causes a shooter to slightly "float" the anchor.
Both can be shot very accurately.
I prefer centering the housing myself, allowing me to use a larger peep and increasing low light visibility.
Shooters that use a moveable sight, kinda have both, but they are still "floating" their anchor.

And, to me anyway, it is easier to teach new archers option 1; and to be accurate and consistent much quicker.

#2 is fine if you set you pins to this..... but is assumes that your anchor point is the same every time. This is not always possible with a new shooter, with winter clothing, in a tight blind, or at a tough angle.

#2 is fine if you set you pins to this..... but is assumes that your anchor point is the same every time. This is not always possible with a new shooter, with winter clothing, in a tight blind, or at a tough angle.

I center the pin in my sight housing & peep...This is the way that Scott taught me to shoot. Diamond S on TBH....

Either way is fine as long as its repeated for every shot, and for me that leads to errors. Which is why I have opted out of the peep. I shoot a kisser button with my nose on the string. This method for me puts my eye in the exact same spot every single time. I don't have to worry about light, or twisting. I just shoot.

With my wife's low poundage bow, the top pic hit about 15" low and the the bottom pic hit dead on at 50 yards.

I'm setting my wife up her first bow and we are having issues with her hitting low. 27.5" DL and we have her bow tuned all the way down to 32# DW. At 10 yards she's still hitting a little low but at 15 yards she's really low. At 20 she's in the dirt under the target and I'm running out of room to move the sight down. She's getting better with her fundamentals but I'm looking for answers as to her hitting so low. Is it her low draw weight and short draw length the main culprit or is something else at work here? Thanks!

I'm setting my wife up her first bow and we are having issues with her hitting low. 27.5" DL and we have her bow tuned all the way down to 32# DW. At 10 yards she's still hitting a little low but at 15 yards she's really low. At 20 she's in the dirt under the target and I'm running out of room to move the sight down. She's getting better with her fundamentals but I'm looking for answers as to her hitting so low. Is it her low draw weight and short draw length the main culprit or is something else at work here? Thanks!

Peep sight up, anchor point down.

First, make sure the arrow is passing straight through the Berger hole while on the rest and that the nock point makes for a level arrow.

Then have her draw the bow with her eyes closed and come to anchor; then open her eyes. The peep should be in line with her eye. If not you probably need to move it up (based on her shooting low).

If it is even with her eye then she needs a new, lower, anchor point; then adjust the peep align with the new anchor point.

Some people can anchor close to the ear lobe and some can't; it depends on string angle and face geometry. Shooting with a lower anchor is okay as long as she can be consistent at that anchor point.

In the " old days" of square pin guards you would center the PIN in the peep. This would cause you to "crunch" your nose into or off the string, to achieve the inevitable task .. Since anchor had to be altered to do so....

Then round pin guards came out! By centering HOUSING you maintained a consistent anchor and added an anchor reference.

Actually, neither option is wrong.
Centering the sight housing usually allows for a larger peep, increasing low light visibility.
Centering pins causes a shooter to slightly "float" the anchor.
Both can be shot very accurately.
I prefer centering the housing myself, allowing me to use a larger peep and increasing low light visibility.
Shooters that use a moveable sight, kinda have both, but they are still "floating" their anchor.

I have always centered the pin and wondered why the sight housing had the glow in the dark ring.

I'm going to be changing my set up this spring just to try something different and will try shooting with the sight ring centered in the peep. At least the pins themselves won't need to change. Should just be an adjustment of the sight ring itself

I would guess it's #1 for me but I can't honestly say that I even see my peep or sight ring when I shoot. I shoot single pin, place it where I want on the deer based on distance and angle, and fire away. Seems to work. Maybe I will pay more attention next time I'm shooting styrofoam.

#1 is simply easier: when aligning two circles of nearly equal size it is very easy to tell when they are not centered because anywhere they touch or overlap you know you're off and adjust to compensate. This also allows you to have a single consistent anchor point when using multi-pin sights.

#2 is much harder because aligning a very small dot in a large circle allows for much more error because you have to estimate distances from the edges of the circle to the dot. With multi-pin sights, you will have to change your anchor point for each pin...not very consistent.

I center the sight housing also, but if it works, it works. We ain't all built alike and all of us will never be on the same page no matter what the " correct " method is. For instance, all the " pros " say to float your pin, squeeze your shoulder blades together until you get a surprise release. I'm a trigger puncher. A bunch of dead animals proves that a trigger puncher can be an effective shot. May not be the right way, but it works for me.

That's why I use a one pin site. It's always centered. I know my distances to our feeders, frontside, under feeder and backside of the pen. So set the middle yardage and shoot a tad low or high when you see where the animal is located.