Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers

By: Ben Erickson

Whether it’s a priceless work of art or a collection of family photographs, it’s important that what you hang on your walls stays put. While attaching directly to studs provides the most security, they are often not located in the ideal spot, and screws and nails provide little support in drywall alone.

We put some of the more common fasteners to the test to see which ones held the most weight in drywall, caused the least damage, and are easiest to use. For shear holding power, anchors that spread out behind the wall did the best, but they also did the most damage to the wall. Since most pictures weigh less than ten pounds, the size of the hole and ease of installation may be more important than the actual holding ability of the fastener.

Test Results

Tests were conducted using downward pressure on a hollow section of standard ½” drywall. While all of these fasteners can be used in plaster as well, the holding power may vary and precautions should be taken to keep the wall from cracking.

Fastner Type

PriceEach

HoleSize

PoundsFailed

Toggle Bolt (1/4″ bolt)

$ 0.75

3/4”

300+

Threaded Toggle

$ 1.50

3/8”

200+

Molly Bolt (1/8″ bolt)

$ 0.50

1/4”

170

Threaded Anchor (brass)

$ 1.20

3/8”

130

Threaded Anchor (plastic)

$ 0.45

3/8”

110

Plastic Anchor (medium)

$ 0.20

1/4”

80

Picture Hanger (large)

$ 0.50

1/8”

80

Picture Hanger (medium)

$ 0.20

3/32”

70

Picture Hanger (small)

$ 0.15

1/16”

60

Picture Hanger (WallBiter™)

$ 0.80

3/16”

100

Wire Hanger

$ 0.75

1/16”

50

Prices are approximate and may differ depending on brand and quantity. While the fasteners pulled out of the wall at the pounds listed (except for toggles, which remained intact), they started showing signs of failure at 10-30 pounds less, so be sure to include an adequate safety margin in your calculations.

Toggle Bolts

Toggle bolts are available in various diameters and lengths to accommodate different wall thicknesses. While the clear winner for sheer holding power, they require drilling a large opening to insert the spring loaded toggle, leaving them wallowing in an oversized hole. Also, they are almost impossible to remove without the toggle falling off inside the wall.

Threaded Toggle

New self-drilling threaded toggles offer improvements over traditional ones since the hole fits tightly around the anchor and the center screw can be removed while the toggle body remains in place. They are easy to install, though difficult to remove. For maximum holding power with hanging objects, position them so the long arm of the toggle points up. This also makes it possible to remove them without tearing up the wall. On the downside, threaded toggles leave a substantial hole and are the most expensive of any of the anchors tested.

Molly Bolts

Like toggles, molly bolts work by spreading out behind the wall. They are installed by hammering them into the wall then tightening the bolt, which causes the casing to flair out. Mollies have an annoying tendency to spin in drywall when being tightened and are impossible to remove once installed. Your best bet is to hammer them below the surface of the wall and spackle over them. On the positive side, mollies fit snuggly in the hole and the center bolt can be removed and replaced as needed.

Threaded Anchors

The oversized threads on these anchors are designed to screw directly into drywall. They’re available in nylon or brass and come with either a center screw or picture hook. The brass version with hook held more weight than the center screw type. While threaded anchors hold well and are easy to install and remove, they leave a nice sized hole behind should you decide to redecorate in the future.

Plastic Anchors

These often used fasteners are hammered in a hole drilled in the wall and press against the sides when a screw is inserted. Though they work well in hard materials, such as brick and concrete block, they are not the best choice in drywall. For best results use ribbed anchors that are split, which allows them to spread out a bit behind the wall.

Picture Hangers

Traditional metal picture hangers come in several sizes and are nailed into the wall. While they don’t support as much weight as many other fasteners, they are easy to install and remove, and leave a much smaller hole.

A new twist is the WallBiter™ which is available in either plastic or brass. This molded one piece hanger has two curved prongs that are hammered into the wall. While only rated at 25 pounds, the large plastic version we tested held 80 pounds before beginning to show signs of failure. On the down side, it causes more damage to the wall than traditional picture hangers and costs more.

Wire Hangers

Another newcomer to picture hanging is a curved spring steel wire that can be inserted in the wall without tools in a matter of seconds (sold under brand names such as Heavy Duty Wall Hanger, Hercules Hook, and Monkey Hook). While some brands claim they hold up to 150 pounds, in our tests they began to pull out of drywall at around 40 pounds and failed at 50, which is still more than most pictures weigh. Wire hangers are easy to remove and leave a small hole. However, they cost more than traditional picture hangers and will only work where there is not a stud or other obstruction present in the wall.

The PowerHook is a more robust hanger that works on the same principle. While we didn’t test it, it’s claimed to hold up to 120 pounds, though it leave a larger hole than wire hangers.

48 Comments on “Testing Wall Anchors and Picture Hangers”

Hi Ben,
This article is awesome.
I hanged yesterday a 40lb mirror on drywall using threaded anchors (https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-122405-Driller-Picture/dp/B000I0DWRK). Seems firm, although the hook seems slightly tilted
I used a 1/4 inch drill to open the hole in the drywall and then used the threaded anchors above (I was planning to use other anchors but changed my mind last minute). Do you think the anchor might have not fastened well enough bc I used the drill?

I only have one stud in each opposite wall inside my tiny pantry. If like to install some pull-out shelves. Which anchors should I use in drywall for the brackets? I can maybe anchor at least one long screw in the stud providing the holes in brackets line up. Doubtful. Thanks

I have a 65″ flat screen that needs to be mounted. Two unique factors:
1) It will need to be on a mount that extends 18-24″ out. (The area is a ‘cubby’, originally built for some of the original Massive flat screens that were really deep.
2) There are no Studs.

The TV weighs 50 lbs and the Mount is 20 lbs.

If I use toggle bolts to attach the mount bracket to the wall…Do you think they will be able to support the TV when extended 24″ from the wall?

Hello to all.
I had a problem hanging multiple picture frames at the same height and came up with a solution. These frames come with round hooks on each side for mounting, making it difficult to hang them all at the same height.I bought from Home Depot the moulding they use to transition carpeting and hardwood or tile floors. It is slanted out, and is @ 8′ in length. Mounted that to the wall, got s hooks to go in the mounting hooks on the frames and hung the pictures on the “mounting rail”. Inexpensive and now everything is level.

I just put together a over the toilet spacesaver that is way too short. It’s too much of a hassle to try to break it down to take it back, so instead of using it as a floor unit, I was thinking of trying to suspend/hang it. Since all of the side and shelving are particle board I was wondering if I could use drywall anchors and maybe wood glue to create some type of support system. From there maybe a thin plywood cleat to suspend it on the wall. The anchors I plan to use are “Triple Grip Heavy-duty Anchor for All Materials”. Does this sound like a viable solution or should are break down my item for a refund?

Hi Shanna,
My test was with the weight pulling at 90 degrees to the drywall, as would be the case for a wall hanger. Pulling straight down, as with a ceiling mounted object, would reduce the weight the anchor would hold substantially. Since I didn’t test it that way, I don’t know how much less it would hold. If you decide to try it, I would definitely choose an anchor that spreads out as much as possible behind the drywall, like a toggle or molly bolt, and anchor it in several different locations if you can. Then test it by pulling down on the rack to put more weight on it than the pots would weigh before loading it up. Good luck, and let us know how it works out.

I’m trying to hang a small round pot rack. The preferred place to hang it is not near a stud. So hanging with a toggle bolt seems to be my best option. I’m guessing the weight will be around 50-60 lbs. Will it still hold since its in the ceiling and not the wall? I’d hate to have it come crashing down on me.

Putting a lead-lined, leaded-glass faced curio shelf above my couch to display a collection of meteorites, fossils, and depleted uranium slugs. I can’t find any studs and I think it’s only 3/8″ drywall. I have a box of 50 picture hanger things, but according to your data I only need 42. Should I use all 50 to be safe? (Shelf and collection weighs 2,100lbs.)

I want to mount a flag on my front porch column. It is a molded composite, thus hollow. Is it possible? My thoughts were to use a toggle bolt ~ but I’m just grasping at straws so any advice would be appreciated.

I am trying to hang a 5 foot wide clock that is just a metal frame, so can see most of back side on a concave curved wall. Since hook will be somewhat visible and will be out approximately 2 inches from wall at top or 12 o’clock. Should I try to install hooks at 3 and 9 on the clock or is there something to hang from the 12. Thanks for any help.

I have a requirement to hang a wooden carving I bought while working in Thailand. Its dimensions are 9ft long X 4 feet wide X 5inches thick. It weighs over 120pounds. I would like to be able to hang it on my concrete wall. The concrete wall is roughly 6 inches thick in width. What is your suggestion on what types of anchor bolts I need to use and also the method of hanging it.
Thanks in advance for your suggestion

I live in a custom house which has 3/4″ sheet rock. I can’t find molly bolts to fit (clear the sheet rock)anymore. What are my options for whatever I need to do. Also with a tall bookcase on carpet what should I use to make sure it doesn’t turn over, and how do I do this?

I have a 4′ long, 13 lb. shelf I would like to hang on pecan wood paneling that has been painted. The three brackets under the shelf are 20″ apart, so even if I can locate one stud, the other two would only have the support of the paneling. Would molly bolts work in this case (if so, what size?), or will there be too much weight when items are placed on the shelf?

Super interesting. I am mounting a monitor arm on the wall, well an iMac attached to a monitor arm, which could be as much as 50lbs. I can’t find ay studs, but I’m reluctant to mount a £2K computer on just the drywall, though 4-8 toggle bolts should kill it.

I also wondered about mounting a piece of plywood on the wall maybe twice the size of the arm’s footprint, and then mounting the arm on that through the plywood with toggle bolts or similar.

Any thoughts much appreciated. Thanks for this info. Personally I hate the threaded anchors, I always fined they eat the plasterboard and have a tendency to spin :/

Hi, we recently bought a couple of deep box framed pictures, one weighing 9lbs and the others around 15lbs. The lighter picture has one serrated plate stuck to the back of the frame with which to hang it, whilst the two heavier pictures have two serrated plates on each. We are looking to hang the pictures on drywall so initially bought some picture hooks. These were however no good as the depth of the outer frame at the back of the picture meant that the hook could not reach the serrated plate. As a result we resorted to using 2 inch galvanised nails to hang the pics, (one in the lighter and two on each of the heavier pictures. Hammered around 45degrees into the drywall. I am a little worried now how stable this solution will be or are my pictures likely to fall down over time?? Thanks for advice! Dan

I have a 35lb framed artwork that is 67″x38″ and a set of four Brass Threaded Anchor Picture Hooks that say they can hold up to 35lbs. Each end of my frame has 2 sturdy hanging hardware. Can I use these four anchors and expect to hang this artwork on drywall only? I have the option of using a wall stud on one side, but of course I would have to use different hanging hooks making it more difficult to level. What would you suggest? Thank you.

I have just hung a 49lb mirror which had metal rings on the back with two OOK HeavtHold Drywall Hangers from Home Depot. Absolutely brilliant – just make a hole with a screwdriver, push or hammer them them in and twist up against back of drywall, and the weight of the mirror holds them secure against back of drywall. Highly recommended $4.97 plus tax each. Come in a pack of one.

The Cobra company manufactures a hybrid of the threaded anchor called the ‘Wallgripper’ or ‘Triple Grip’. It’s installed like your conventional threaded anchor but when the screw is inserted and turned it flattens out on the back side to lock the anchor in place and strengthen the hold. The pull and shear ratings are posted on their website.

Molly bolts used to be my preferred option since they are easy to install and hold a lot of weight. Unfortunately in the 45 year old house that I recently purchased, the drywall is so brittle that pounding a molly in place breaks out a large chunk of the back side of the board. I have tried pre-drilling a hole, but the gypsum just crushes around it as it tightens. I have reluctantly switched to toggles. The easiest way to remove a molly is to drill out the face and push it into the wall.

I am a professional home theater/stereo installer and for speakers mounted “on-wall” I use the metal(brass) large thread self drilling anchors, then use the appropriate sized screw to mount your bracket by screwing into the metal anchors. Anything 20# or less should do well, assuming your sheet rock is in decent condition. Be very careful to not break the paper on either side of the sheet rock or this will greatly weaken your mount.

I spent a whole week looking for this information before finally coming across this article! Thanks for the help, I’ve used it to hang 2 items already! However, I now have a portion of an Italian hand-forged iron gate that I would like hung on a wall… it weighs approximately 350 pounds. There is going to have to be something holding it to the wall, as well as supporting the weight of it. The length of wall that it will consume has at least 4 studs. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!

I have just bought a restaurant and the pictures were professionally hung. I can’t seem to remove them. They have a bracket on the bottom and two on the top. I can slide the frame 1/2 inch or less in one direction but they are solid to the wall. Any ideas on how to remove them. I am assuming they hung them in this manner so no one could take them????/ Thanks

I do not know who Larry Hak is but he explained the ATTACH-IT.com better then I May we please send you a sample for your review . It would save your readers a lot on time and effort . Thanks for your thoughtful review Renny Barnes ps. the attach-it is a product of the Barnacle Company

I have wall monted unit from ikea besta burs, 22 kilo, 48.50lbs in weight it has 3 anker points,
I am wanting to hang it on dry wall but the studs are not in the right place to centre the unit would toggles do the trick.

Hi Tony,
In the testing we did on toggle bolts in drywall, they supported 300 pounds, over 10 times the weight of your TV, so it would probably be okay. However, if it were my TV, I would error on the side of caution, and screw it to the wall studs.

I would like to mount an LCD TV (32″ and weighs about 25 lbs). The wall (drywall) I want to mount it on has no studs (at least none I can find with a studfinder). I keep reading how you shouldn’t mount a TV unless it is to a wall stud, but I think they are refering to a larger/heavier TV. Do you think I could mount my tv with 2 toggle bolts safely or should I not risk it?

Attach-It is far and away the best, fastest, and easiest method I have ever found to hang a picture. Attach a couple of them to the frame of the picture and simply press the picture into the wall. The points on the brackets penetrate into the wall and the picture is there to stay and y does not slip like when wires are used. When you take the picture off there are only small marks on the wall, way less than with other pictures.

I bought mine at a home and garden show where they had a try it yourself demo booth. I couldn’t believe how good they worked. I got a pack thinking no way will they work that well at home. Fortunately I was wrong and they do work that well. Another neat thing they include with the hangers is a mini level for ease in hanging.

I saw above they offered a free sample. I would strongly suggest you take them up on the offer. Once you use them you will never go back to another method.

I think you can only get them on line. There is an instruction video on the site that shows how they are used.

I had a dorm room in college that was cast concrete. It had a wood ‘hanging bar’ that was wood attached near the ceiling. It was designed to put hooks over the top, and to hang string / wire down the wall to hang pictures, wall hangings on, and keep from having holes in the walls or using other wall penetrating or adhesive hangers.

I like the idea of using a French cleat along one wall to hang cabinets and / or pictures or message boards from.

for super heavy stuff, I’d try a cleat type hanger. (some steel cabinets used to hang off a matching steel cleat. a wall cabinet stacked full of ceramic dinner plates is heavy!)
you can try hardwood plank perhaps, or if desperate for slim air space between wall and the object, look for heavy steel strap in the Simpson or Silver tie bins.
the advantage is that you can hang off real wood, not sheetrock. the disadvantage is that you’re guessing the max load. i suppose you could mock up your assembly in your garage (but lower, so the final crash falls lesser distance), and put a lot of weight on it. (hang buckets and fill them using a hose??)

Hi Denny,
We haven’t tested the NoStud or OOK hangers, but here’s my take on them and your project:
>100 pounds is a lot of weight to support, so I would use a separate wire on each side of the mirror and two hangers.
>If possible, install the hangers to studs (assuming the mirror is at least 16″ wide and the studs are located where you would like to mount the mirror).
>If you do attach to studs, you won’t be able to use the NoStud hanger, so you would need to use the OOK one.
>If you don’t attach to the studs, use a hanger that provides support behind the drywall , like the threaded toggle and molly bolt in the article above, since they provide much more support than hangers that rely just on nails, though they will more damage to the wall.
>Of the two hangers you’re considering, if you’re not attaching to studs, the NoStud hanger should support more weight since it provides support behind the wall, though it will do more damage to your wall.

I have a mirror that weighs approx 100 lbs. I have 2 options for mounting it on the drywall.
1. Ook professional picture hangers rated at 100 lbs/hook or
2. NoStud drywall picture hanger rated for 200 lbs.

I’ve looked on the internet and have not found anyone that have used either of these 2 items but their website have sworn by them….

I have an old window that I want to hang on my PLASTER wall, I’m not sure how much it weighs…maybe 30pounds?? I have bought the plastic anchors w/ #10 screws but the package doesnt say how much weight they will hold. Can you help??
Thanks!

An alternative is the Thumbs Up! Tool Free picture hanger, it goes into drywall easily, with thumb pressure then locks in place with a simple 1/4 turn. Just push,rock and lock. Since they lock in place they resist withdrawal better than the wire hanger. They are also less likely to damage insulation or contact wiring in the wall.

Hi Maria,
That’s one heavy piece of art! I would attach it using multiple wires and hangers (at least two: one on each side). Attaching hangers into studs with long screws is much better than attaching to drywall alone. If the studs won’t do, use toggles, threaded toggles (my personal favorite, remember to orient them so the long arm will be facing up for increased strength and to make removing them easier), or molly bolts (make sure they are the right size for the wall thickness). Good luck with your project!

Hi Trudy,
If your walls are drywall, the best approch is to tap the anchor gently a few times with a crown head hammer to form a dent in the wall a 1/16″ or so deep. Be careful not to hit it hard enough to cause the paper on the drywall to break. Next, use a putty knife and spackling or drywall joint compound to fill over it, anchor and all. If needed, apply a second coat of compound after the first has dried. Finally, lightly sand the patch when dry and paint over it.

There is a new product called Wall-nut that is not listed. It has the same benefits as a toggle bolt without the oversized hole (just a 3/16″ hole will do) and is much less expensive. It is a great retrofit and is also excellent for new installations.

Our company, Novus Innovation Inc, have designed, patented and licensed an innovative and unique form of attachment mechanism. This patented techonology is simple and lends itself very well to the picture hanging industry. FYI, we are currently looking for a suitable company to manufacture and market the Grip IT picture hangers under an exclusive license agreement.

Kenneth W Sharp

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