Khao san Road – Bangkok beyond the tourist areas

Khao San Road: is not the only or the best place to stay while in Bangkok! Experience the real vibe of the city in Lumpini park.

Much is said about Bangkok, a city that doesn’t sleep, home to some of the most incredible markets, Buddhist temples, the grand palace, birth place of Thai Massage and a never ending night life.

As a traveler I wanted something different, something less touristy thank Khao San Road.. If you’re backpacking in Thailand, you might want to take a look at other areas to stay.

Bangkok beyond Khao San Road

Bangkok has a bit of everything for all tastes, from luxurious hotels and gourmet restaurants where you pay a fortune for a tiny piece of food on your plate, to hip hostels, street food and traditional Thai restaurants. For most backpackers Bangkok is synonym of Khao San Road. And I wonder why?

Although I understand part of traveling is connecting with other travelers, why would people want to get stuck in the most commercial, westernized touristy spot where tourists flock in like flies?

I didn’t go to Khao San Road, I believed Bangkok could be so much more than western tourists and drunk nights. So I headed to Lumpini Park, located in the heart of the financial district, near Bangkok’s biggest park and green space. And I’m so glad I did it!

After a few hours chatting with a British backpacker I’ve met in Huang Lamphong, I followed his advice, and try out the Etzzz hostel. A clean, centrally located hostel, witch offered 180 degrees views over Bangkok’s sky line and a roof terrace. I love roof terraces!

My experience in this part of Bangkok was so positive I decided to stay the whole week!

The beautiful lake in the center of Lumpini Park

If you you want to experience something absolutely amazing, wake up around 6 am and head to Lumpini park. Dozens of people gather there, early in the morning to practice Tai-chi, Yoga, dance. The smell of the morning grass, the fresh air and the lack of traffic noise turned my visits into a morning ritual.

Bangkok can be as peaceful as you want

I felt sorry for not having my yoga mat with me, because I think I would have loved to practice my Ashtanga yoga every morning there, along side the smiley Chinese ladies.

People are so pleasant and friendly in this part of the city. Maybe because you rarely see other westerners around, or maybe because people are more relaxed in here after their jogging or salsa class.

The early morning Tai-chi classes

A little fruit market within the park

There’s a little market within the park, during morning time where you can get deliciously ripe fruits and smoothies.

In Lumpini Park you can also find a very important Muay Thai stadium and classes. If you’re into Muay Thai, i think this would be the best location for you. There are a lot of cheap stores everywhere selling all sorts of Thai boxing gear.

Bangkok is a city where modernity and the old ways live side by side. This contradictions make this a very interesting city. You can stroll along side the modern sky scrappers and bump into a very traditional alley where people still follow the old ways. The old temples mix with the modern malls and avenues, it’s a contradiction that only works well in Thailand. There’s definitely something right about this country.

The clock tower – it’s 7am!

By now I was totally flat, I mean, my money was over! I didn’t have cash to go out and eat, so for the rest of the week I was buying food at the supermarket and making salads. It was 40C daily, so salads were actually welcome.

A few locals added ice to this street do’s water. Such kind people in this part of town!

I went for long walks during this week, from Lumpini to Salang daen and I felt truly grateful for having no more money. If I’d be taking the metro daily, I’d have missed all the little streets, little temples and amazing places I ended up visiting because I had to walk.

Of course it was not always fun, but I’d wake up very early and enjoy the morning freshness, go back to the hostel when the sun began to boil, for long siestas and to update my Portuguese version of this blog and the later on I’d go out again.

Siesta time!

When I think I would have also missed all this wonderful experiences if I’d have stayed around Khao San Road! My Bangkok experience would have been more poor for sure!

For more info on Bangkok beyond the tourist areas, chck out my post about the Hua Lamphong area.

3 Comments

That’s a great day nicely planned I must admit. It’s so true that Bangkok can be so much more than western tourists and drunk nights. We spent a few days at Khao San Road and moved to the local place on the other side of the bridge. It was definitely too much for us!

One night a few people from the hostel I was staying at, decided to check out Khao San Rd and they ended up coming back early. They said it was too much for them. I wonder how much of Bangkok most backpackers actually experience, besides Khao San Rd and a few monuments? I was fascinated with the tiny little dead end streets and alleys where children were playing outside and people still left their front door open. I felt those were the places where life is actually happening

There is so much more to Bangkok then Khao San Road. So glad you decided to see the real beauty of BKK. We don’t like going to Khao San area but unfortunately one of our favourite restaurants, Ethos, is in the area. We head down to eat there and then leave as soon as possible.