On December 10, 2013, Karl Lagerfeld unveiled his Pre-Fall 2014 collection at the Chanel Métiers d’Art presentation in Dallas, Texas. In this exclusive interview, he speaks at length about how he approached the subject of translating Americana style into couture-worthy pieces. His imagination spun a vast array of looks that took pre-Civil-War American style and updated it for modern times. In doing so, he was able to filter a mix of “refined American culture” from the early 19th century through the lens of the 21st century.

Silent Western films were a point of inspiration, but his versions were dreamier, more elaborate, and infinitely more feminine. Decorated with heavy beading, sleeve fringes, and jaunty not-quite-cowboy hats, Lagerfeld’s journey runs alongside Westernwear but remains firmly fashionable due to its flawless tailoring and laboriously detailed touches. His concern was in staying away from looks that were “too folkloric”, arguing that they would limit the collection’s accessibility. Watch the video above and let Lagerfeld talk you through his thought process and the collection.