So I am just a little curious. What kind of cooling is required for a 2.7 pulley, Euthenasia port n polished head, zzp lth/catted dp/2.5 ZZP catback, zzp cai 1000cc injectors. I have a GM dual pass and the zzp stg3 h/e. Would that little bit suffice ill also be on e85. Thought about grabbing the phenolic spacer or the new stealth h/e

the stealth h/e is nice, but if u have a stg 3 h/e I would just stick with that, get an opt b if u dont have it and you should be find if ur running e85.

Think I'll hit Route #3 after I finish fixing the exterior from the horror story my Slobalt went through before I got her. I don't race, but having that kind of power under my foot just to **** people off randomly will be fun. That and I have a grudge match against a LNF with intake, exhaust and tune. I will catch his ass one day. Lol.

I'm thinking, 2.8" Pulley.
60lb Injectors.
ZZP 3in. Intake. (My boy has one on his and the earlier comment about the whine is definitely = )
Haven't decided on the Headers/DP. Depends on prices.
ZZP Front Mount H/E just for the intimidation look. (And of course for the right reasons too.)
And of course AEM Wideband and the Mounts for wheel hop.

She's my DD but I keep my foot off of the get up and gtfo position for the most part.

I'm considering going route 2 and I've been doing research on this setup for a little while now. Half of the people on this site say a 2.9 and 42#'s are a disaster waiting to happen while others say it is completely safe except you may go static at higher rpms. I know 60#'s are recommended but what I'm asking is will a 2.9 and 42#'s work? So what is the REAL answer is it safe or not? It will be my DD so if I raced anybody it would be on the highway and it would be a one pull and done thing. My planned mods are:

2.9 pulley
42# (if they are safe with it)
HPT from Area47
later I'll add an upgraded heat exchanger and possibly an option b.

I'm considering going route 2 and I've been doing research on this setup for a little while now. Half of the people on this site say a 2.9 and 42#'s are a disaster waiting to happen while others say it is completely safe except you may go static at higher rpms. I know 60#'s are recommended but what I'm asking is will a 2.9 and 42#'s work? So what is the REAL answer is it safe or not? It will be my DD so if I raced anybody it would be on the highway and it would be a one pull and done thing. My planned mods are:

2.9 pulley
42# (if they are safe with it)
HPT from Area47
later I'll add an upgraded heat exchanger and possibly an option b.

2.9 & 42's will be fine.

I'm pushing my 42's much harder than that, and have been fine for over 4 years now.

First off I want to thank the many and various members of the cobalt community for knowledge shared and lessons learned (good and bad including myself).

Now I still feel there is a great majority of people getting the LSJ as a used car and want to know what they can do to it to make it "faster" and I'm noticing there's not any clear cut thread that explains this upfront. I have been into the cobalt platform since 2005 and have had a LSJ since 2007 and have done some extensive modding and all by my own hands and have helped many other LSJ's (alot.. alot, with theirs) and this is what I'm going to say are the best routes for modding your car with some variations between each as you want to more aggressively go forward with your LSJ.

THIS IS A GUIDE AND IS NOT THE DEFINITIVE MEASURE OF YOUR MODDING GOAL. THERE ARE ALWAYS PEOPLE TRYING TO DO IT BETTER AND FASTER. TAKE THIS FOR WHAT IT IS NEW AND OLD MEMBERS ALIKE BECAUSE THIS IS COMPILING YEARS OF MODDING FROM THE COMMUNITY AS A WHOLE AND WHAT I THINK IS THE BEST SOLUTIONS ON THE BASICS LEVEL.

Route 1: The Warranty Retainer
You still have a powertrain warranty and you want that warranty to back you up in case trouble comes knockin and you don't want to be told "Your car is modded sorry". This is not the most cost effective way to make power, but you do it and retain the warranty.

Your Mods are:
GM Stage II: Installed by your dealer. Yes its expensive but the dealer did it.
Stock Air Box Mod (How To Section) or Aftermarket intake: Aftermarket intakes may or may not increase your dealers discomfort level but you will LOVE the sound that your blower makes.
Optional: GMPP Exhaust (P or T): Great sounding exhaust but no gains over stock exhaust.

Your WHP Avg on this setup will be from 225-245.

Route 2: Power and Reliability
Your not as warranty conscious as the previous mentioned route so your lookin to make some decent power but don't want your car to run into problems down the road with CEL's or extensive wear and replacing parts more often. THIS IS THE BEST OPTION IMO, lots of fun and it's not going to bite you in the ass later, trust me on this one.

Your Mods are:
42lb Injectors w/2.9 Pulley: You will need to find a shop or a tuner to do a tune for you and or install (requires pulley press if your stock)
Aftermarket Intake or Stock Airbox Mod: Blower whine =
Header Downpipe Combo or Just Downpipe: If your sticking this route stay catted, catless has minimal gains and on SC'd cars and it is very very loud. This option you'll preferably want a 3in. downpipe with 2.5in exit. GO STAINLESS
OTTP STG1 Rotated Mounts: No wheel hop, enough said.
Aftermarket Heat Exchanger: Dont skimp on the money here buy a good one and be happy with keepin the temps cool so you can beat on it without being choked by your stock H/E rampin up the temps after/during pulls.
Optional: 2.5in aftermarket exhaust will have some benefits here down the road and if you want a different noise comin out the back then take your pick of exhausts, BUT stock exhaust will not hinder you.
Optional: Wideband and/or Interceptor here will give you data on the car (how its running) and if you want a tuner to tune you, you need the wideband.
Your WHP Avg on this setup will be from 250-265.

Route 3: Power Options
You are pretty confident about taking care of your car and you know how to push it without goin past its limits, so lets get into making this thing a beast of a DD.

Your Mods are:
60lb Injectors w/2.8-2.7: (recommend staying at 2.8) Have a shop or tuner, tune your car or maybe grab hptuners and learn yourself. BUT DEFINITELY GET IT TUNED FIRST BEFORE BY AN EXPERIENCED PERSON BEFORE YOU PLAY WITH IT. Also read up on tuning so you know whats goin on with your car.
Aftermarket 2.75in or 3in Intake: If your lookin to make some good power you should go 3in, if not 2.75 is fine.
Header and Downpipe w/ 3in collector and 3in Downpipe: Definitely want to move to a 2.5in aftermarket exhaust or maybe even 3in to set yourself up later for bigger mods, depending on your goals.
OTTP STG 1/2 Mounts: Again no wheel hop, enough said. Slight more vibs with 2 but you cant go wrong here, especially if your staying m62.
Aftermarket Heat Exhanger: Buy from ZZP or OTTP and get the largest most expensive one, your going to be bringing the heat... cool that sh*t down, might even want to get dual pass here.
Wideband and Interceptor: You need the wideband for tuning and is a great indicator of potential problems and the interceptor I say is a must to monitor your IAT2's and give you the info on DTC's and other car dynamics
Optional: Meth Injection has its benefits here, cooler IAT2's and allows more leeway for timing. Totally up to you but remember you have to tune for it.
Optional: LSJ Upgraded clutch with stock flywheel, this or another aftermarket brand but stick stock flywheel and don't go lightened!
Your WHP Avg on this setup will be from 255-275.

Route 4: MOD THIS B*TCH!
You are a knowledgeable LSJ guy and your are gonna milk every ounce of power out of your baby till every person you come across on the road is crying they got beat by a cobalt. THIS IS FOR PEOPLE WHO WANT TO PUSH PAST THE LIMIT AND HAVE THE MONEY TO DO SO.

Your Mods are:
Ported and Polished head, TVS (or combo of the 2), Turbo Build ( and/or with p&p head), Twin Charged: Your ready to get your hands on some great LSJ power mods and you know who or how to do it. Have at it.
60-79lb Injectors: Depending on application. Various pulley sizes for M62 and TVS but as rule of thumb here, don't go below 2.7 unless you truly understand what your doing to your blower and you know what your gaining... only WTQ.
HP Tuners or Trifecta: At this stage in the game you should know what is goin on with your car and should be able to make on the spot corrections if something comes up or diagnose and fix the problem if its hardware related. GET IT
Aftermarket Header and Downpipe Your getting close or your over 300 WHP, this is a restriction and has to be removed and replaced. 3in downpipe with 2.5in/3in exit, 3in is the better route to go here.
Aftermarket Exhaust Stock is restrictive and a 2.5in is cutting it close now... 3in is the better route here as well.
OTTP STG 2 Mounts: You need them... period
Aftermarket Heat Exchanger w/ Dual Pass: (Not applicable for turbo build) No reason why you should not have both on your car. Your power will be hurting if the temps get too hot.
Wideband and Interceptor: No questions asked here, you need the wideband for tuning and if you dont have your laptop with you, the interceptor is your best friend.
Aftermarket Clutch: Your putting alot of power down to those wheels, wouldn't want the clutch to hold you back so upgrade to an aftermarket but stick stock flywheel or get the exeddy hypersingle!
Optional: Meth Injection is totally up to you if feel the need to get more out of your car but for the SC'd builds the heat exchangers have come a long way and the dual pass is an excellent choice to keep the car happy.
Optional: Consider doing some internals work like valves, valve springs (If you did not get a p&p head) and pistons at least.
Optional: Nitrous... You better know what your doing and you will make 300+ Easy

Your WHP Avg on this set up will be from 275-300+++

Thoughts comments suggestions are welcomed but this is the more or less a solid piece of explaining how the new guys and maybe some of the veteran guys who haven't done much power wise to look about doing some mods in the future. The aftermarket has matured for our platform and its time you guys got a hold of some great products our vendors have to offer!

Thanks dude! It's crazy, I've been beating the **** out of my car with this new tune and I am STILL averaging 26.5mpg with 60lb injectors. Before the tune, and the tb clean I was lucky to stay T 21.8 mpg on stock injectors.

I'm new to this modding stuff. I have a 2006 super charged SS cobalt 2.0 LSJ I bought it brand new in November of 2005 brand new. This past month I put ottp axles,ottp stage 2 mounts, zzp mid leingth header zzp down pipe with high flow cat,magnaflow exhaust. Ottp 2.7 pulley 60# injectors stage 2 belt and ottp 4th gen heat exchanger with ottp tune by mailing them my PCM and they mailed it back. I also put a new IC pump on because mine was dead.

I just got it dynoed after the car was done and got 238whp amd 226tq. MY QUESTION: WILL GETTING A HPPRO TUNE dyno tune make a significant difference ( increase) because I'm not satisfied. Not complaining about parts or the shops both have been great. My question is the tune,getting it custome dyno tuned,will it make much more of a increase? Yes?no? If yes maybe a % or educated guess of new numbers. Thank you

No one is answering your questions because the threads you are posting in are over a year old. The tune you got is a base tune. It is not made specifically for your car. It is conservative and its just a way to get you by until you can get a custom tune. So yes a custom tune with give you more power. Take a look at the dyno thread and you can compare your mods and it will give you an idea of what you should be at.

It was asked on other ones where people were talking. I'm new to this forum and this nodding stuff and not trying to come off as a dick. That is what I was assuming that it's a
Tune to make your car drivable and safe. But for $400 will I expect it to go from 238 to 270hp? 238-244? Or is there no way to even guess that?

What do you mean take a look at the dyno? Is there a program where I type stuff in? I got it dynoed after all the mods I listed and it was 238whp and 226 torque. But then I see other people with a stock pulley stock injectors with just header and exhaust and an HPtune and they have more Whp and more torque then I have now with all my mods. It's just confusing and frustrating when you try and find the info on google and on here and don't get a straight answer. I do appreciate you at least verifying the first part of what I suspected.