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It came with wires already attatched, but I removed them and attatched my heavier gauge wire to the connectors inside. I don't remember exactly what this socket was called on the package, but I know it said nothing about H4. Just look around for something that looks like it would fit...

Here's what I did for the male end...
you can see how I plugged my harness into the factory system. The relays for the hi and low beams are attatched to the battery hold down, with a bracket I made.

Thanks for all the feedback. I've still got one question, where exactly do you hook up to the factory system. I don't have a garage and will be doing this in the cold, so I want as much info so that I don't freeze my ass out there too badly.

All my best work is done in the street when it's cold, at night, when it's raining... ask my neighbors.

Anyway, if you buy one ready made, it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to install. There'll probably be 3 (maybe 4)connections. There'll be power which you'll hook to your battery, then one or two grounds, then there should be a plug that plugs into your factory headlight socket.

If you're building one yourself. You can put it together inside the house (after doing some measuring) then take it outside and install it as above.

If made the harness and installed everything.
But now I only have high beams. Low beams don't work, and really funny thing is that when I turn on the fogs that I put in last week, the hibeans shut off. The fogs were wired to only be on when the low beams were on.

For the headlight upgrade, I only ran two wires from the old headlight socket. Is this a ground switched light system(95 Legacy Canadian model).

I am not panicing to much, it's above freezing here, when I did the fogs it was -10 C......

I think I might have something else wrong. I am using a 5 post relay, also has a 87a post. Diagram on relay package shows "Power to Lamps(87 & 87a)". Most info I have found says one is a normally open, and other is normally closed.
Check out http://catalog.com/susq/other/auxlamps.htm, there is also a note about ground switched lights.

I asked the question in the alt.autos.subaru newsgroup the first of week, and didn't bring my notes(I in the woods in Quebec on weekends). Here is Dan Sterns suggestions.

> I've read a bit about rewiring the headlight to use relays and heavier
> wires, and have a couple of question.
>
> Does Subaru use the ground to switch the lights on/off?

Some do, some don't. I don't recall which ones are which, but the only practical effect when installing relays is that you must use BOTH existing headlamp wires to trigger the relays, rather than just grounding the control circuit of the relay at whatever convenient location strikes your fancy. The easiest way to do this is to power one relay with the low-feed and ground wires on one side of the car, and the other relay with the high-feed and ground wires on the other side of the car.

> I am in Canada, have DRL, any weirdness in doing the upgrade?

Yeah, headlamp-based DRL systems can complicate the matter. I should update my site to discuss the matter. You don't specify the year and model of your car; Subaru has used various high- and low-beam DRL systems. The best, cleanest way to do it is to disable the factory DRL system and re-implement DRLs using one of several strategies. If you'll be specific about which system you have, I can comment further.

> Where can a decent H4 socket be found(I am in Ottawa).

The best one is the Hella unit, which has spring clamps to accept up to 10ga wire. A much-better-than-average unit can be had at NAPA under Echlin number LS-6235, phenolic high-heat socket with phosphor-bronze terminals and 14-gauge wire.

With respect to the H4 socket, Ken and rallylights.com said all sockets are limited by the connectors on the bulbs, and the using a connector with 18 gauge wire wouldn't cause a problem, just keep the amount of 18 gauge to a minimum(6 inches).

Just follow the above wiring diagram and driver side work now! passenger side doesn't work because I am using 87a of the relay.. shouldn't be a problem, just splice up the wire and put in bigger fuse for high beam...