Martin 08 was a former member and this is his updated post that I have provided a link to, it still has its pictures intact. Some of Candyman's posts are now missing photos, so some may find Martin's post helpful. Back in the day he learned from Candyman and his post is excellent information, very well done, and somewhat hard to find. I miss his many excellent posts. Source is russian-mosin-nagant.com SEE:

As for the dowel I use hard wood and it is smaller than the drilled hole. Some use fiberglass fishing pole segments for pins or small dowels. Bamboo is a good choice too for smaller pins/dowels. If the crack is on the side of a stock one can glue the crack or reenforce the back with fiberglass cloth, then use tiny vertically placed pins to hold the glued crack together. Candyman has a post on side cracks and hand guard repairs. This is one that still has pictures.http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... =61&t=1218

I do it differently. I glue the crack and then use tiny vertical pins to hold the crack together & strengthen the glue bond.
But back to wrist cracks

I rough up the dowels surface with X-acto line cuts around the circumference of the dowel so the epoxy has more surface area to grab. I also use a small, long X-acto blade to cut lines into the sides of the drilled hole. This is only for the first inch or so of the hole so the inside has more surface area for epoxy to grab. The hole size also also makes a difference if it's inside can be roughed up. It's not possible on small needle size pin dowels. Some use Devcon 2 ton 30min set epoxy that can be thinner in order to force it into the crack with a hypodermic needle. A secondary beveled dowel can be used to slightly force the crack open and allow you to insert the needle and epoxy into the crack. Some use a fiberglass cloth around the dowel for a stronger repair that grabs the roughen surface of the dowel. How ever and what ever approach you use, be sure the dowel does not force open the crack, the clamping should force the crack so tight that it is hardly visible. Always pad any clamp to avoid marks on the stock; 1/4 inch rubber helps to avoid marking the stock. Always save the drill dust to help blend in repairs. You can make a wood putty from the dust with the epoxy to fill over the top of the dowel hole so it is not visible on the inside of the stock. This is used with pins to fill the upper part of the hole after a bamboo or brass pin is set slightly below the wood line. The dust/glue putty fills in the upper portion of the hole covering the pin so it does not appear as a drilled pin hole. Here is a slightly different, but similar approach done by Candyman.http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewto ... =61&t=1229

Remember use Brownells Acraglas, Devcon, clear, 2 ton epoxy, or a high grade marine epoxy. Other glues just do not stand up to the test of time. Some let lose after the shock of shooting the rifle. NEVER USE Gorilla glue. I use Titebond III to make the dust putty for longer work time. Titebond III works great on dry wood, but not so well if it is cosmo/oil soaked wood. The above mentioned glues work better for wood splices or dowel placement. High quality glue is a must, do not go cheep on your choice of glue.

Devcon epoxy is a clear, extremely strong, non-shrinking adhesive, specially formulated for high-clarity and good impact strength. Use Devcon Epoxy adhesive for household, industrial, crafts or for any job that requires a high-strength, high-quality bond that is water-proof and dries clear. This Rapid-curing, general-purpose adhesive/encapsulant which easily dispenses and mixes in seconds, dries in 15 minutes and reaches functional strength in 1 hour. Works best on metal, wood, concrete, glass, fiberglass, stone ceramics, china and much more. Syringe style dispenser tubes allow you to release equal parts of both epoxy and hardener. Epoxy sets in 30 minutes with strength up to 2,500 lbs. per square inch.

Bonds rigid durable substrates such as metals, glass, china, stone, fiberglass ceramics, concrete and wood in all combinations
Epoxy is waterproof and dries Clear
Includes 2 tubes connected by the plunger
2 part epoxy easily mixes to 1:1 ratio
Resists salt solution, unleaded gasoline, mineral spirits, oil and anti-freeze
Sets in 30 minutes and cures in 8-12 hours
.84 oz. size (Listed sizes are total weight divided into 2 tubes)
Can be tinted with pigment or chalk to add color

Brownells Acra glass see above highlighted link,

The industry-standard stock bedding compound for more than a generation, Acraglas is now available in a full-featured kit with everything the professional gunsmith needs for taking on almost any-size bedding or repair job. Available with original-formula Acraglas, the hard, durable, non-shrinking bedding and accurizing compound preferred by riflesmiths all over the world, or longer-curing Acraglas Gel, with its butter-smooth consistency that won’t run, drip, or leach, and a stable, molecular lattice structure that won’t crack, craze, or “sugar out.” These self-contained kits come with everything you need to get the job done—except the rifle. Both include plenty of hardener, dyes, release agent, solvent/thinner, measuring/mixing cups, applicators, masking materials, and instructions. You also get fast-setting Acra-Quick™ and Acra-20™ two-part epoxies for fast repairs. Acra-Quick/Acra-20 are unmatched for strength, hardening speed, and their ability to bond to almost any material, including wood, metal, and plastics with all the famous strength and holding power of Acraglas. The kit also includes the reusable, “goof proof” applicator gun that automatically mixes epoxy and hardener in to a precise 1-to-1 ratio for proper bonding as you apply it to the work area.

For oil removal I use the hot car method in summer, this works. Rags or litter around the rifle in a black plastic heavy lawn/leaf bag and placed in the back window on a hot sunny day> I avoid oven cleaner- it's just bad news-
From the comments in the above link:

The author has great repair tips, but I found an even better way to remove the most stubborn oil and grease from wood, even stocks that have been coated with cosmoline for the past 60 years.

I strip off the worst of it using plain old mineral spirits, or a spray on degreaser like super clean. Just spend a few minutes on it. The authors scrubbing with detergent and hot water would probably work even better, or the oven cleaner.

Then I fill a black plastic garbage bag with that driveway oil absorbent stuff that looks like cat litter, and put the stock inside.

Roll it up and tape everything into a long tube, so the stock is surrounded on all sides by 2-3" of this material. Then just lay it on your dash in the hot sun for about a week or so. Leave the windows in your car rolled up. Obviously this works better in the summer. The bag will get HOT.

After 7-8 days unroll it, and you'll be amazed. The stock will be completely bone dry. Every ounce of oil will be sucked out of it. I had an ancient greasy SMLE stock from 1943 have the little wedges in the forend upper piece fall out, because the stock was actually dessicated.

The oil soaking material will be discolored and almost black in some cases.

I like this method because other than the initial cleaning, there's no chemicals or scrubbing or harsh detergents involved.