Cool. Yeah the IronX smells really terrible. It's quite pungent, and seems acidic although they claim it's pH-neutral. Apparently it's ammonium thioglycolate which is also used for hair perms and removing rust stains from marble. It sure does a good job of dissolving crap lodged in the paint. There were some rust stains on my roof from an old homemade rack, and this took 'em right off. Makes clay barring go much quicker too.

That sounds exactly like the same stuff, takes rust off of paint like nobodies business. I'll grab a bottle to try out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ethor

Cheers from another green 242 guy!

Thanks for a good thread!

Thanks for the kind words, us green guys gotta stick together and rise up against all the beige (although I want a beige 4 wagon pretty bad now)

Took a quick trip to my closest PnP this weekend, scored this single round grill setup for $38 out the door. Best part is the H4 bulbs that are now on the car. Bye bye sealed beams!

Also, the 16T turbo is finally in, took some doing, but I also fabricated a 3" DP to match the rest of the exhaust I had previously built. She's a runner now. the 16T is waaaay different than the 13C, and feels more linear even at the same boost levels. It is a touch laggier, but that could be a combination of questionable WGA tension and my cheap MBC.

Stock 940 DP (chopped to fit a 240) vs 3" boomer

Room for activities

Snug as a bug 16T

13C, 15G, 16T

Completed DP

Will probably add a high flow cat in here, this thing stinks now....

A little better tuck job than the first time

Last but not least, I finally have a speedo that does something, it doesn't read MPH, but the needle moves It seems like there is interference of some form, and the speedo moves in relation to throttle position? Like the more the throttle is pressed, the higher the speed reads up to 20MPH, so that's fun

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.

You can always try a helper spring on the WG for short-term, see how that helps for spool before spending money on a new actuator, but those 15g/16t actuators are pretty weak ont eh return side to keep the gate closed.

Eh, I use Imgur for hosting, so I can imagine it would be flagged by some work places. Imagine my car with a bigger turbo and 3" DP

That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.

That's actually a really good idea, I will try the spring on the WGA, currently it is the 13c unit, I pulled all the rods and picked the stiffest, super scientific.

If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.

If you have a Mityvac that can both blow and suck, and a dial indicator, you can get a good estimate of the boost pressure at which your actuator starts to open. Put the dial indicator shaft in line with the actuator rod, at the tip, and zero it. Then plumb your Mityvac (or other controllable pressure source w/ gauge) into the port and start pumping it up. When the dial indicator reaches about 0.040" (1.00mm), read the pressure on the gauge, and that's going to be pretty close to the effective setpoint...if you're running straight into the actuator without an MBC or EBC of course.

Edit: bypass the MBC when you do this. Probably worth clarifying.

I don't have a Mityvac, But I should get one. This is a great easy test for all WGA me thinks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsellstr

^^^^ = truth. Also if you have an actuator that's close to the range you want, run the pressure up to where you plan to run it, adjust the eyelet to 1/2 turn short of sliding over the arm, should be pretty close. I went that route when setting up the Forge in the wagon, sits at 20psi except for an initial spike if I mat it and downshift with the throttle, then it'll hit 22 and drop down.

So after a few days of letting the 'puter re-learn, the WGA and associated rigging is highly suspect. Car spikes to 20 psi in second gear (MBC is set around 15 psi) and then settles to the 15. Car hits 15 lbs in 3rd through 5th gear fine so far.

I would like to turn up the wick a bit to 18-20 psi, but I don't want it overboosting to 25 psi in second gear So a new WGA is on the list, as well as a rethink on mounting, I currently am using the ubiquitous A/C bracket, which works, but there is still more flex than I would like.

What all did you have to do to get that 940 down pipe to fit? I'm looking at my 740 pipe trying to figure out what I need to do to fit my 245, and yours looks a lot simpler than what I had figured out

It's got a couple inches cut out of it, and then a slight twist when it got welded back together.

Just get a couple 3" Mandrel 90s and build a real DP if you can man, The 940 piece always rubbed somewhere, and I was never happy with it. My new DP is literally just two 3" 90's shortened a bit and welded together with some bungs thrown in for good mix. It's the only way to fly really.

Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.

Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.

What, no more crashing on my pullout for you anymore? I see how it is.

Just make sure it's the deluxe model that can produce both positive pressure and vacuum. There are cheaper vacuum-only versions.

If you have an air compressor handy with an adjustable pressure regulator and a pressure gauge, you can accomplish the same thing. The trick would be using a gauge that is accurate below 20 psi.

Thanks for the heads up, I will for sure get a mode that can suck and blow ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsellstr

Chris...we're rolling up thursday after work, crashing at a buddy's place in Shasta, then rolling the rest of the way on Friday, back home on monday. Lemme know if you wanna tag along, I can see if there's an extra couch.

Sounds like you may just need the other actuator to trim the spike. When you have something with enough return tension without having to preload the **** out of it, that spike tends to go away pretty quick. I still get around 2psi on just the actuator with an 18psi spring in it and about 1/8" of preload to keep it at around 20.

Plan as of now is for the Mrs and I to leave Thursday early AM and straight shot to Lake Oswego where our friends live now, but plan to ride back Monday. Maybe we can make the return trip together. I’ll keep you posted.

So, Now that everything is pretty sorted on the car, I'm on to my next "issue"

Car runs rich on the freeway, at 10 inches of vacuum, 3,000 RPM, 80 MPH, the car runs at 12.5-13.0 AFR according to my AEM WB.

Idles perfect, 14.7-15.0, then it seems to go richer and richer as it warms up. I am going to check voltages on the O2, this feels like an O2 failure (I recall the computer relies on the O2 after the car comes up to operating temp), but am open to some other diag ideas.

It has been doing this for a week or so (before I changed the turbo/DP) and I should have diagnosed it before I did all kinds of other stuff. It has been worse recently though, and this AM it cruised my 13 miles to work at 12.0-12.5 AFR.