Having debuted in 2009 as a simple breakfast and lunch cafe, this downtown eatery on Lakeland's restaurant row straddling Kentucky Avenue has blossomed with dishes that demonstrate the sort of flourish found in more upscale establishments.

Initial success drove owners Tina and Tim Calhoon to double the size of their restaurant in September 2011. They've since added a handsome bar and evening menu of small-plate fare and entrees to bolster sales of wine and beer.

Their beverage list is ample and thoughtful, with a complement of wines that span the globe and, surprisingly, nearly every bottle is available by the glass. Their current list keeps the bulk of bottle prices at $50 and under.

If you fancy the grape, Saturday evenings deliver a grand bargain, as Fresco's sheds its stock of open bottles with $4 pours after 9.

If it's barley and hops you prefer, Fresco's has plenty of lagers and ales, mostly in the bottle, including Belgians, some of which you'd be hard-pressed to find by any means via the Polk County restaurant scene.

But I digress.

While dinner at this inviting cafe is a work in progress, the dishes so far are well worth the price, as in a $22 beef tenderloin pan-seared and finished with an arresting sauce of mustard and brandy. This beautifully cooked piece of beef, larger than the advertised 6 ounces, was paired with a blissful gratin of potatoes and a side of fresh, green beans.

Less fanciful but equally divine was a small plate of fish tacos, $10, the fish blackened with a mixture of fennel seed and other spices and topped with a slaw tossed in ranch dressing and fiery pepper sauce.

The proliferation of downtown eateries and watering holes is conducive to grazing, and Fresco's invites with tasty appetizers, such as a cone of sweet potato fries, $6; coconut shrimp served with a light, curry cream, $10; and a terrific tomato soup, $4 a cup, just begging for a companion of grilled cheese.

Tina Calhoon, the culinary brains of the husband-wife duo, said to keep alert for new entrees, such as seared duck breast laced with a sauce of shallot and Madeira, and soft-shell crab sandwiches.

A few daytime offerings are available after sundown, such as the house Knuckle Sandwich, $9, a riff on jambalaya, sans rice, piled on a roll. On average, Fresco's lunch menu doesn't quite measure up to the skill and creativity displayed at night.

A $7 roast beef sandwich with a dash of horseradish by day was underwhelming, as were other sandwiches sampled over time. The ample breakfast menu, however, beckons with items like shrimp and grits, which I attempted to order at noon and was soundly defeated. Drat.

But let us now turn to dessert, which Fresco's serves up in spades, beginning with a mouth-watering selection of supersized cupcakes frosted in rich butter-creams and whipped creams fortified with chocolate and other flavorings.

There are all manner of scones, cookies, gooey bars and specialty cakes made to order.

A dining companion who rarely eats sweets took one bite of a chocolate cappuccino cupcake and, well, dessert turned into a dogfight. And she won. I had much better luck with a wedge of bourbon pecan pie, though it could stand a heavier hand with the bourbon.

As for service, the Calhoons have found a gem in Joseph “Seff” Macias, whose casual-but-courteous demeanor and knowledge of the menu, including wine and beer, is a welcome change from the cadre of clueless young people one so often encounters in restaurants of this price range.

The Calhoons also give local talent a platform. Wednesday nights are given to live blues and jazz, but you'll find everything from acoustic guitar to more raucous offerings on weekends.

During an Oct. 15 inspection, the restaurant received only three violations, two of which were critical, including a soiled can opener.

Fresco's by night is a stylish, cozy nook where one can imbibe, nibble or nosh. Fancy a late-night snack of cheesecake paired with, say, a funky Belgian saison? Tim and Tina have you covered. In my book, that's as cool as it gets.

Eric Pera can be reached at eric.pera@theledger.com or 863-802-7528.

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