Design is to Helsinki as literature is to Dublin and samba is to Rio – so it's no surprise the Finnish metropolis is this year's World Design Capital. A walking tour is the best way to appreciate the craftsmanship of its buildings at close quarters. Justin McGuirk hits the streets …

After learning to husky sled in the UK, Kevin Rushby tackles a hardcore trip that brings him closer to his dogs and fellow sledders – and to a kinder view of the Santa mayhem that is Lapland in late December