I was waiting for this monolight for a long time, and eventually got it few days ago. Talking about latest Paul C. Buff invention (intervention to hi-speed strobes market? :-), all digital Einstein 640 monolight. I’ve ordered few of these units back in spring 2010 “to try”, ordered separately (meaning soon I’ve receive another one:-). That was a longest back-order line I remember, but the good thing that I’ve received Einstein V2 unit: it suppose to be improved from the original one I’ve ordered.

The main reason I was so anxious to try the unit is that currently I desperately seeking a solution for my studio high-speed photography, mostly for action-freeze of liquids. We’ve started to get more and more assignments in this area, and I do not feel very comfortable working with my Canon Speedlites (have four of them).

So, my ultimate choice was between power packs such as ProFoto 7A or Broncolor Grafit (probably used) and PCB Einstein V2: 640 Ws would be enough for me, the only thing I have to consider is reliability, color consistency and of course the price. At this point I am leaning towards Einsteins, really hope they will work well for me.

I am not going to try to go through a full test with my Einstein 640 strobe: there are so many already posted online. The best one I know is Rob’s Galbraith review on the same subject: Stopping action with the Paul C. Buff Einstein 640 monolight.
My goal is to share results of the real, in-studio tests of flash speed duration by shooting a liquid splash: nobody has calculated the speed of water drops firing from a glass, even Rob’s test with spinning disks was not enough for me:-)
Obviously I knew that Einstein strobes will be fine at freezing splash, but I did not know if flash power of that “stopping action” duration will be enough for my work. The main question was the distance and F-stop number I can use at ISO 100 at that power level (at full power Einstein is usual mid grade strobe, the magic begins when we dial power down).

So, I’ve started from F22 and my favorite lens for water splash photography: Canon 180mm F3.5 L macro. Long focal distance allows me not to worry about protecting the camera and lens from the water while F22 will give me enough DOF to cover my subject.

Here We go, the video:

Einstein 640 studio monolight flash speed duration test:

As you see, Einstein works great: even one light is enough to get some nice splashes. I really like how the Beauty Dish gets reflected from a stream of water:

Looks nice, is not it? The last thing I did is a continues shooting mode: Camera was set to F5.6 1/250, continues shooting mode, strobe had 14Ws of power. My canon 1Ds MKIII could do only 4 frames per second shooting RAW, so this is how the sequence looked:

Juan,
Cyber commander is not needed to stop action, it is a strobe itself… commander is just a super-duper clever trigger and controller.
Yes, you can use CC with alien bees with optional control module – I forgot exact model, CSR+ might be a right one. Check with PCB website.

Privet Alex,
I’m trying to understand what type of mount for light modifiers this light has. They say “four holding fingers that expand and contract to hold speedrings”, for which one would need a “Paul C. Buff™ compatible speedring”. I already have Elinchrome and Bowens speedrings. No idea if they are compatible or not. What do you use?
Thanks!

Heltor,
I can;t freeze action with Einsteins on full power: flash duration at full power is about 1/700 sec, which is too slow. the useful range is between 2WS (1/10000 sec) and 180WS (about 1/4000 sec).

Hi Alex,
Thanks a lot for your explanations and your amazing tutorials.
I am trying to buy an AlienBees B800 from a friend of mine. I think is a good price, but as I am planning to invest, what you think is better for splash/commercial photography (If you take out the cost from the equation) Einstein E640, AlienBees B1600, or WhiteLighting X3200 and what is the minimum units you need to start?
Do you think I can freeze the water in the air witj a AlienBees B800?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Jay

jay,
You cna start with any strobe, but to freeze the action you’ll need to have something like Einstein, Speedlite or a hi-speed sync trigger. The last will let you shoot at up to 1/8000 sec shutter speed with Aline Bees..

Jay,
“better” is not a right word, as it implies that other is “worse”, which is not true. Each PCB light fits well into it’s price and functionality niche. But Einstein has more features and it can freeze the action. So, for action photography – yes, Einstein is “better” ;-)

Fascinating photos you have. You can see the exact pouring, splashing, and color of the liquid it so find.I like the sequence of pouring liquid photos, Its like you freeze the whole object to go down. Thanks, superb photos.

Hi alex, very nice pictures, i’m learning photography, and i would like to understand how high speed works, whit flash units, could you explain a litle how can you make pictures whit speeds of 1/2000 of a second?

In general, I use flash light with very short impulse duration, which “freeze” the movement. Camera shutter stays open for a longer time, but it does not affect picture as there is only flash light makes the exposure.
Alex

Hello Alex
I’m about to order 2 units from Paul C Buff, do you think 2 units will be enough to stop action and create
good shots? I’m using 3 speedlight now, but I want to change to a more consistent system. I also like to ask you
what is your opinion on your Manfroto head, I using a Monobal right now by Arca swiss but it is not too friendly at the studio
thanks
Fernando

Alex, your pictures are fantastic and your tutorials are excellent; thank you! Do you have any tips for photographing indoor sports with a flash? Can you travel with the Einstein or do you need something else?

Thank you, sir:-)
I have never done any sport photography, therefore no tips on that type of shots. as for the lights itself: Einsteins can be used as any other monolights on location, with battery power packs (like vagabond or DIY like I did here). However, this is not an easy thing to carry with you, and only needed if you have to have much more light then hotshoe flash can provide. Otherwise, use Canon on Nikon or any other dedicated hot-shoe flash, monopod or tripod, tele-zoom lens with image stabilizer, and you’ll be fine shooting sport.
Alex

Hi Alex – thanks for the test. So just to be clear, you’re still limited to 1/250th as your sync speed with the 1DsIII with the new Einsteins? (I realize the short flash duration allows you to freeze the actions but I am wondering about using them outdoors with a wide apeture for portraits…)

Peter,
Yes, as with any other big strobe (even with $10K Broncolor or ProFoto) you’ll be limited by the camera x-sync speed. The only higher then camera’s x-sync is possible with flashes like hot-shoe mounted speedlites, when they work in hi-speed mode: they fire a sequence of pops during not fully opened shutter moving through the sensor.

For outdoors people are using neutral density filter to “kill” the sun light, so it will result wider apperture at 1/250 shutter, while working with big strobes.
Thank you!

He-he:-) Time for me to ask PCB for a commission? :-)
Speaking seriously, I am thinking the same: 5-6 units should cover all my needs (backed up by old WL&AB). The only a question where we would receive them, if order today? March 2011? :-)

@Alex Koloskov, I asked once. (actually, three times) but they don’t want to have any affiliate programs. We asked them to give us some units so we can produce tutorials with them – (at LMS studio we have prehistoric Speedotrons (20 years old models)they are very intimidating looking) thats why we are most tutorial with clamp lamps…. But PCB said that they are asked all the time by many websites : and don’t give it to anyone… doesn’t make any sense to me, really.

@Sasha, Well, seeing how “fast” PCB can fulfill demand, I can only guess that they do not really want to increase sales. They can easily start selling much more not only through affiliates, but stores like bhphotovideo and other.

It might be a reason for them to do so.. Probably Paul wants to control a customer base, working directly with us. (I am getting a call every time they ship backordered item, confirming the address, etc). So far PCB has a best customer support (based on responses I’ve seen).