Unplanned Head Job (I made the mistake so you don't have too!) Part 1.

Ok, so I had planned on doing the belts only on my 95 940 D24TIC, I've only owned the car for a short time, so had to get up to speed with the oily beast after coming from a petrol only previous background.

I was never happy with the clattering noise of the engine, I'm aware they're pretty noisy machines across the board, but I was sure I had a further issue, after trying to locate where the worst of the clatter was coming from and checking the Vac pump etc, I eventually bought a cheap mechanics stethoscope and pinned the worst of the noise to injector number 6, albeit a couple of others were also up there clattering/knocking away, so I bit the bullet and bought a new complete set of "GTD" injectors with 297 nozzles from Anders here on the site. This is where the fun began, whilst changing the injector seal washers after injector removal I was using a thin hole punch to pluck out the heat seal washers, all from no.1 to 5 popped out no issues, but the last number 6 (my very noisy one, i saw that the heat seal washer was significantly more carbon'd up over the others, i gave the washer the smallest bit of pressure in the hole and ping, snap!!!!...the bloody hole punch just lets go with the majority of it falling into the pre-chamber or beyond!! I blame it on the cheap chineseum hole punches i'd bought, but in reality it was probably a school boy error sticking it in there in first place, I eventually got it out with a heavy gauge eye hook hanging screw and a heavy zip tie attached to the eye (one with a big enough eye to get blocked in the washers should it fall), I was a double fool here as had almost bought a ten quid tapered bar from fleebay for the exact purpose, I wish i had as it quickly dawned on me that this would probably mean the head needing to come off,

Yup as you can see by the pic above a variety of magnet tools had failed to make it through the pre-chamber, or glow plug hole to scoop out the rogue piece of metal, so the head had to come off to get at it!

(Above, the offending article sat on top of the piston in cylinder 6!!!!)...so now at least a head gasket job was on the cards, so thought i might as well take the opportunity to do the valve steam seals and check/re-build the hydraulic tappets etc, this is the first time i've done this so it was a bit of a learning curve...

Once all the various parts are stripped clear of the head under the bonnet (which is quite a bit, and a little out of scope of this thread, though later I'll post up some good service articles i found which helped for anyone who hasn't got a full green book etc, the rocker/valve cover is removed, and the head bolts removed in sequence, the head was then removed and put on a set of head stands to be worked on, the camshaft can be removed by means of removal of the cam caps (there is a sequence (the 2 center, then the outers as i recall) the cam can be lifted clear to gain access to the lifters/tappets, these can then be lifted out with your fingers, or if needed a magnetic tool of some type, if there kinda vacuumed in with oil. The valve springs can then be compressed to remove the valve collets, springs caps, spring, then finally the valve steam seals, and valve removal via the bottom of the head...

After spending twenty odd quid on a set of Sykes Pickavant valve spring compressors, i found they were a bad fit for the job, so thought id try a cheepo ebay set of universal jobs which worked great and were super cheap, so the Pickavant ones' will probably go back on ebay shortly, sorry for crap photo, but below is a photo of the universal compressor (red box chinese jobs off ebay, i'm sure many know the type i mean, in fairness i've got a few of these red box Chinese tools for an old Merc 190 i have; bush tools, spring compressors etc and they work pretty well on the whole if your just a home-gamer ha!)...

The Pickavant jobs pulled the spring cap and spring at a bad angle for compression, whereas the cheepo one's allow for the compression to be applied straight down in perfect line with the spring to easily get at the collets with a mag tool, again I'll get a few better pics of the tools and get a bit more into detail, but for the meantime it's getting late here and as I've reached the max photos per post, I'll continue part 2 tomorrow, Additionally I hear the forum users are in decline and there's been photo hosting probs and images being zapped, but in my short time owning the car it's proved very useful info for me, so thought i'd stick this up, as it might prove useful to someone still out there now or in the future, Cheers.

Sorry the (relatively) simple injectors R/R job went south on you. I'm trying to imagine how or what kind of hole punch could be used to pull out the injector heat shields.

Another tool you will want (if you do not have it already): 12mm x 1.75 pitch bottoming thread tap. You really want to get those head bolt holes cleaned up well. Spend extra time to get any liquids or other crud out of the bottom of the holes.

Also, cut the tops off of a few of your old head bolts to use as locator posts when lowering the head onto the block. Helps keep the gasket in position.

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilsontom3000

...and there's been photo hosting probs and images being zapped....

I think you're describing linked photos hosted on Photobucket, where Botofucket recently demanded ransom to continue displaying linked photos. Looks like you did good by using the Forum's attachment feature.

Sorry the (relatively) simple injectors R/R job went south on you. I'm trying to imagine how or what kind of hole punch could be used to pull out the injector heat shields.

Another tool you will want (if you do not have it already): 12mm x 1.75 pitch bottoming thread tap. You really want to get those head bolt holes cleaned up well. Spend extra time to get any liquids or other crud out of the bottom of the holes.

Also, cut the tops off of a few of your old head bolts to use as locator posts when lowering the head onto the block. Helps keep the gasket in position.

I think you're describing linked photos hosted on Photobucket, where Botofucket recently demanded ransom to continue displaying linked photos. Looks like you did good by using the Forum's attachment feature.

Hi Ngoma,

It was just a long shafted thinish gauge punch, I was just popping the tip a little through the centre of the washer and applying the tinniest bit of lateral pressure to release, all was going well as i say until the 6th cylinder with the washer being more carbon'd up i applied a tad more pressure and snap, no bend, just snap and a quite a few sweary words, but i've only really got myself to blame, although I could almost guarantee if it been an old school tool made in the West I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have just let go like that, lesson learnt!

I don't have a tap, but have blown them out and ran the old bolts in and out numerous time with a bit of lub, they seem to be good and clear with all bolts bottoming out level, but i might take the advice and grab a tap just to be sure!

I did cut the heads of the old bolts however and angle ground a slot into the tops...

I will continue the write up until the head is back on the car, however you said you might have a photo of the glow plug bussbar rear area, as explained across in another thread, and for anyone else interested, I cut the copper bussbarr behind the pump at plug 5/6, one out of frustration trying to free off number 6 plug from behind the pump, and also as I had a plan to upgrade to new wiring, I used 8AWG single core marine grade cable, which I'll get onto through the thread, however I've managed to somehow misplace a ziptie bag which i stuck the old bar parts into and now can't work out how it attaches up into the glowplug relay wiring, I see a female spade connector, so Im thinking the end of the copper buss had a male spade on the end somehow? also the sensor in the rear of the head (see last photo below)...

'The female connector, seems to run back to the glow plug relay, question is how does it engage the bussbar?'2zhec2c.jpg

And this 'water temp sensor' I thought the water temp sensor was the cabled sensor up front, so what the hell does this connect to, can't see any cables at the rear and can't remember removing any, it;s about the one area that i didnt take a load of photos off unfortunately!14jlv2v.jpg

Female spade connector on the brown wire that runs to the GP relay connects to the temperature sensor at the rear of the head. It slides onto the round disc standing off the end of the sensor, just slides on perpendicularly. It provides input to the GP relay logic, to determine whether to energize the GPs at start or not.

The other water temp. sensor, near the front of the head by #1 GP is for the instrument panel temp. gauge.

Attached photos of the rear bussbar. The bends allow it to thread thru the IP mounting bracket. The #6 GP connection is slotted open to ease removal/install. The small nut on the GP terminal just needs to be loosened, not entirely removed (and lost!).

Female spade connector on the brown wire that runs to the GP relay connects to the temperature sensor at the rear of the head. It slides onto the round disc standing off the end of the sensor, just slides on perpendicularly. It provides input to the GP relay logic, to determine whether to energize the GPs at start or not.

The other water temp. sensor, near the front of the head by #1 GP is for the instrument panel temp. gauge.

Attached photos of the rear bussbar. The bends allow it to thread thru the IP mounting bracket. The #6 GP connection is slotted open to ease removal/install. The small nut on the GP terminal just needs to be loosened, not entirely removed (and lost!).

I'd never have thought that connector fitted onto that sensor end unless i'd put the head on first and seen nowt else to try it on!

I offered up the head minus manifold to the block, unfortunately plug 6 fouls the pump, so need to decide weather to move the pump, or go with skint knuckles and swearing getting the plug and lead on afterwards haha!

Apologies for lack of reply, the work was put on hold for some time due to work commitments and crappy Scottish weather (repairs on the drive way, the worst for winter repairs!!)

But I actually got kicked back off couple of days ago, and was planning a day at it today, but it bloody snowed here last night! and am still planning an entire finished write-up on it....

Power coated rocker, intake manifold, timing cover etc..the exhaust manifold was sprayed in high temp paint by me, but started to flake, so I just wire wheeled it right back to bare metal again, New gasket, head bolts etc, and head back on....

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Unfortunately the IP lock pin makes it through the pulley, but appears a tad too fat to make it into the hole in the IP bracket (pump and bracket are aligned, IP hasnt been tilted over, though i might as plug 6 is still needing inserted)..theres not much in it so i'll emery cloth it down a bit....inserted a piece of thinner bar I cut off a 1/2" drive bar, but its too thin to hold the IP locked out at the yellow timing mark on the pulley.

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Also just noticed the rear cam pulley has a slot/key and a notch on the outer rim, like the IP pulley, cant recall anything on the rear cam nose that requires lined up, aside from the cam itself being locked off horizontally with tool 5190 or equivalent, I'll need to take another look at that when i'm next out...

To do the crank locking i'm using an adapted lock tool from Skandix, its like Volvo 5187 aside from it's got a straight handle, so out the box you cant lock it against the fan housing, I drilled a couple of holes in it, got a bit 10mm mild steel and cut some spacer plates for it, to lock up, hoping it works as planned as the dreaded crank bolt during strip down, didnt test it, as was found to have about15ftlbs or less on it, i was ready with a huge breaker bar and a section of scaffold pole lol...anyway glad I found potential disaster!!

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So weather permitting it should be running very soon (famous last words!!)

We don't use the IP lock pin for setting the timing. The IP cogged pulley is keyed to the shaft and has a small groove in its outer edge that coincides with the fine straight mark on the IP body which will approximately indicate IP TDC position, close enough to correlate with crankshaft and camshaft TDC, close enough to get it dialed in with the dial indicator.

Sorry for the non-concise formatting of the important sticky IP Timing but I suggest studying it and following its procedures.

The IP can be locked down to its mounting bracket in a position a little further away from the engine (to ease R/R of #6 injector GP) without ill effect, as long as the injection high pressure lines are not stressed.

The rear camshaft pulley does not use a key as it needs to be able to rotate freely (until you tighten down the fixing bolt) on the end of the camshaft to set the timing.

Creative workaround on the crank pulley holding tool. Will it work on the other side of the fan pulley snout when tightening the crank pulley bolt? I presume it is not resting on the fan hub, to protect its bearings. How do you plan to set the high torque on the bolt?

The Dogleg 17mm offset wrench is a great help dealing with the rear camshaft bolt.
The Cam pulley holder is a must, for approaching and attaining the desired timing setting.
The Injector line wrench sure makes R/R the injector lines almost enjoyable!

We don't use the IP lock pin for setting the timing. The IP cogged pulley is keyed to the shaft and has a small groove in its outer edge that coincides with the fine straight mark on the IP body which will approximately indicate IP TDC position, close enough to correlate with crankshaft and camshaft TDC, close enough to get it dialed in with the dial indicator.

Sorry for the non-concise formatting of the important sticky IP Timing but I suggest studying it and following its procedures.

The IP can be locked down to its mounting bracket in a position a little further away from the engine (to ease R/R of #6 injector GP) without ill effect, as long as the injection high pressure lines are not stressed.

The rear camshaft pulley does not use a key as it needs to be able to rotate freely (until you tighten down the fixing bolt) on the end of the camshaft to set the timing.

Creative workaround on the crank pulley holding tool. Will it work on the other side of the fan pulley snout when tightening the crank pulley bolt? I presume it is not resting on the fan hub, to protect its bearings. How do you plan to set the high torque on the bolt?

The Dogleg 17mm offset wrench is a great help dealing with the rear camshaft bolt.
The Cam pulley holder is a must, for approaching and attaining the desired timing setting.
The Injector line wrench sure makes R/R the injector lines almost enjoyable!

Thanks for the info and links Ngoma, I'll check them out later this evening.

Got enough meat off the IP lock pin to fit, still too bloody cold out there for working on cars really, my fingers were done in minutes, I must be getting soft in older age lol

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yup IP lock pin is just to get tdc, and i will allow the rear cam pulley to spin on the nose until torque up, I dont have the special tool with the drive adapter for the rear cam bolt, It was a son of bitch to get anything on the end of it to free-off, I eventually bought a set Neilson 'aviation' spanners which are straight and I could just manage to get decent purchase on it, I'll need to guesstimate the final torque on it though, as theres no chance of getting a torque wrench in there. As i look at that photos though the notch on the IP pulley still looks a bit off line, maybe I need to come around 1 hole clockwise on the pulley, also i'm thinking i'll probably need to move the IP bracket to tension the belt? not sure!

On the rear cam pulley, that is the cam pulley in the pic off the car, not the IP pulley, was just surprised to see it also had a notch on the outer edge and was slotted, albeit the rear cam nose has no slot, and theres nothing to line a notch up to.

I made a cam pulley holder, which should do the job, i'll probably need to use shorter bolts for the front cam though, and might put a brace piece across it to stop it folding.

The adapted crank locking tool has a slightly longer back spacer so it takes the brunt on the inner side of the fan housing and not the front bearing, all attempts to beg, borrow or steal a truck sized torque wrench failed, I eventually got a decent price on a second hand Norbar off fleebay, that goes to 352 ftlbs...

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Looking at this following photo Ngoma, perhaps a dumb question, but with everything on TDC, cam locked off, but with pulleys allowed to spin, tension off belt etc..will I have sufficient valve clearance to move the engine back on the dampener to get the crank lock in place on the left side of the fan housing for crank bolt torque up, before I move back clockwise to TDC and torque up the everything else?, i'd have assumed even with the correct Volvo tool, it would need to be moved off TDC slightly to lock in place.