A Classic, Upgraded Taco

Tacolicious uses traditional red chili sauce on grilled steak to boost the meat's flavor. Here's how to make its tacos at home.

Joe Hargrave's aha moment came in a Mexico City taqueria, when he realized the place was built around just six amazing tacos and a few great salsas. "But it was all exactly what I wanted to eat," he says. Back home, Hargrave closed his struggling Spanish eatery and, within a year, opened a simple taqueria, just like that one in Mexico, called Tacolicious, in San Francisco's Mission District. "Telmo, our chef, grew up in Portugal and in a Mexican neighborhood in San Jose," says Hargrave, "so he's steeped in the classics." His ultratraditional bistec adobado boosts grilled beef flavor with a quick sauce of vinegar, spices, and chilies. "We use flank steak," says Hargrave, "but skirt or tri tip are also good; you want a cut with some chew."

*Don't be intimidated by the exotic-sounding chilies – many are available at Whole Foods or even Walmart, and all can be found at your local Mexican grocer.

Step oneToast cumin seeds in a skillet over medium heat for 1 minute, then grind in a spice grinder (or substitute 2 tsp preground cumin and skip the toasting).

Step twoHeat vinegar and water in a pan until hot. Pour into a bowl with the ancho, guajillo, and cascabel chilies. Let stand 15 minutes.

Step threeFor the adobo marinade, put 3 tbsp oil in a pan over medium heat, add onions and garlic, sauté until browned, place in a food processor. Add chilies and their soaking liquid, cumin, black pepper, and salt. Puree to a thick, smooth paste. Pour into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate.

Step fourPlace beef and adobo in a large ziplock bag, massage to coat all sides. Refrigerate 2 to 12 hours, the longer the better.