Step 1: First Development
The latent image is developed on film, like in regular black
and white processing to produce a negative. Note the presence
of a small amount of sodium thiosulfate (fixer) included with
the developer. As development is taking place, the fixer will
act on both the exposed and unexposed regions of the film. Those
regions heavily exposed will develop before the fixer has a chance
to act. Areas slightly exposed or unexposed on the film will
be affected by the fixer. Unexposed areas (which will eventually
turn out dark on the positive image of the slide) will have a
slight amount of silver halides removed, so that even in the
dark regions a small amount of transparency will exist in the
finished slide. This will provide the proper contrast. Do not
discard the developer. It can be used again in step 8, but fresh
develop without added fixer will give slightly different results,
with improved shadow regions. Tests will have to be done to use
this process on other films, or with other developers.

Step 2: First Wash
An acid stop bath is not used in this step. Use a plain water
rinse. The first rinse will decrease the alkalinity of the developer
quickly. Invert the tank a few times, discard the water and refill
at least 5 times. Water temperature should be kept close to 68F.
Improper water temperature can cause reticulation.

Step 3: Bleaching
Two different bleaches are indicated in the table. Either one
will work. Potassium permanganate is less hazardous to use than
potassium dichromate. The purpose of the bleach is to remove
the silver formed on the film by the developer. In a black and
white negative, areas on the film receiving the most exposure
turn out darkest. These areas print lightest. On a slide, the
lightest areas need to appear light. The bleaches are strong
oxidizing agents. They will act on the silver on the film surface,
but leave the unexposed silver halides intact.

Step 4: Second Wash
Follow a similar procedure as in step 2.

Step 5: Clearing
This will remove any stain remaining on the film by the bleach.

Step 6: Third Wash
As in step 2.

Step 7: Film Exposure
At this point what remains on the film is the unexposed silver
halide. Any exposed regions, acted on by the developer, were
removed by the bleach. The film now has to be exposed to light.
Remove the film from the developing tank. Carefully unwind it
from the developing reel. Exposure can be to any type of light
source.

Step 8: Second Development
Carefully wind the film back on the reel and place it back in
the developing tank. Redevelop the film for about 6 minutes,
using either the discarded developer from Step 1, or fresh developer
without the added fixer. Discard the developer after this step.
This is a one-shot process. Replenishing the developer and reusing
it will give unpredictable results.

Step 9: Fourth Wash
As in step 2.

Step 10. Fixing
There should not be very much material remaining on the film
to fix. This step is optional. It will only take a few minutes,
and is worthwhile. A hardener may be used in the fixer.

Step 11: Fifth Wash
As in step 2

Step 12: Wetting agent
Make sure that distilled water is used. Use very little wetting
agent. This step will help to prevent drying marks on the film.

Step 13: Drying
The emulsion is very soft. Do not squeegee the film. Hang it
up to dry overnight. Step 12 will prevent drying marks. Mount
as with any other transparencies, in slide mounts.