I have misled you due to my poor grammar; I have since corrected the error.

The three boats were the same one design however; the ballast weight can vary in shape and location. The Dumas had much longer lead ballast that ran from the back of the keel forward for a distance of approx, twenty six inches. This kept the stern lower (squat) in comparison to the lead shape shown on the US Building plan of that era.

With the longer lead, you have to be mindful you don’t exceed your stern over hang mark (waterline). It would also be beneficial to contact Mr. Rick West and seek his knowledge regarding the Dumas design.

Many Australian EC12 Owners are changing the lead shape to produce a sailing characteristic more to their liking. Of course, the practise must comply with our current ARYA Rule base.

Both lead shapes and placement are the same for both Dumas boats. Again my apology for my mistake.

The three boats were the same one design however; the ballast weight can vary in shape and location.

Great! Thanks.
So based on this, my assumption is that any rudder made by dumas should work for any of the dumas hulls? Plug & Play?
Is that correct... Any the major difference between the dumas boats was ballasting?

I understand they were build to the same "one design" theory, but prior to the 95 Standard hull in the USA, there are many different shaped "one design" boats.
I.E. My Hickman EC-12 is totally different in the keel than my Dumas.

I did contact Rick West in regards to the Dumas, he knew of no rudders available, and noted that most that need a rudder for a Dumas build it.

I have actually sourced a Dumas rudder, but trying to fill-in as much information as possible to find out if it will work properly before I send away for it.

I'm familiar with the ballasting issues of the Dumas.
Fortunatley either someone corrected the ballast previously, or it was built correctly from the start. Here's a photo of my ballast in the boat, with lead forward.

That means the Dumas rudder i've sourced should work on my hull regardless of the style or version hull.

In Regards to the "barn door" style rudder, I totally agree. I went to this style Rudder on my Hickman Hull. It's a better option.

But, No-one has a mold for that barn door style rudder that will fit the keel shape of a Dumas... Atleast that I'm aware of.... So I don't mind using the old style to get the boat running, before taking the time & patience to build a proper "barn door" rudder for it.

On behalf of the National Class Coordinator and ARYA EC12 Owners, we welcome contact from all interested people seeking further information or general enquiries. Listed below are the primary contact names and e-mail addresses.

Not many snaps taken as weather was very wet on the Saturday so didn't get the chance to get any during racing. Couple of pics of my boat only as here.

Enjoyed as always the trip over to QLD and will be back in Feb for the Morgan Black.

Just noticed angle in pic 2 makes it look like double spreader rigging - this is not he case - the black tghings that llok like spreaders are in fact battens on leach of headsail, Faintly betwwen them the actual spreader can be seenw hen you click on pic to fully enlarge

They may of come of 2 seperate hulls from the past with supposed same parentage - this is classic example of what has happened years ago with flop after flop after flop being made of 1 hull and things moving ever so slightly each time a nother mold was flopped.
The move to the new mold and control of manufacture alleviates these problems so in 10 years time a rudder that fits todays new boat will still fit a new hull.
Looks like your best bet is to use the blue rudder and extend it down to meet the bottom of the hull of go back to scratch and build a new one yourself that fits the shape of what you have in the hull.This shape (barndoor) does work better given larger surface area.

They may of come of 2 seperate hulls from the past with supposed same parentage - this is classic example of what has happened years ago with flop after flop after flop being made of 1 hull and things moving ever so slightly each time a nother mold was flopped.
The move to the new mold and control of manufacture alleviates these problems so in 10 years time a rudder that fits todays new boat will still fit a new hull.
Looks like your best bet is to use the blue rudder and extend it down to meet the bottom of the hull of go back to scratch and build a new one yourself that fits the shape of what you have in the hull.This shape (barndoor) does work better given larger surface area.

Most certaiy.
This boat is a work in progress, so I'll keep searching. I have another I actively sail, so it's my workbench boat. If I ever find the what proper rudder for it is, and source one, that's just plug & play.
If not I'll build one from scratch in the future.

The new mould is really the way to go in the class without a doubt... especially in a one-design class. The only reason I'm fooling around with this boat is that I hope to get a boat that's competitive only at club-level for short change.

Anyone who wants to compete at the higher levels of this class obviously is going go forgo what I'm doing and spend the money for a brand-new boat that fits the 95 Standard.

Once you have looked at them please feel free to click on the word photos at top right under my name where alot of other EC12 pics I have taken are along with some J boat ones from 2009 USA nationals as well in Sacramento prior to last Morgan Black we attended.