Malarkey rehires chef for new L.A. restaurant

Former Burlap chef Anthony Sinsay will help oversee kitchen at Herringbone, opening in Mondrian hotel

Anthony Sinsay, formerly an executive chef of the now closed Burlap Carmel Valley, is rejoining Enlightened Hospitality Group to help oversee the kitchen at the group's upcoming restaurant in Los Angeles.
— John R. McCutchen

Anthony Sinsay, formerly an executive chef of the now closed Burlap Carmel Valley, is rejoining Enlightened Hospitality Group to help oversee the kitchen at the group's upcoming restaurant in Los Angeles.
— John R. McCutchen

Just a little more than two months after leaving a high-profile Brian Malarkey restaurant in San Diego, chef Anthony Sinsay has returned to the fold and will help oversee the opening of a new dining venue in Los Angeles.

Enlightened Hospitality Group, helmed by Malarkey and partner James Brennan, is starting construction this week on its first L.A. restaurant and second Herringbone, which will occupy the former Asia de Cuba space in the upscale Mondrian hotel in West Hollywood.

Malarkey, a former "Top Chef" finalist, is assuming the role of executive chef of all the group's restaurants, and Sinsay will be the chef de cuisine.

He formerly oversaw the culinary operation at the now closed Burlap restaurant in Carmel Valley that has since reopened as Searsucker. At the time he left, Sinsay said he wanted the opportunity to be more creative, which he thought might be difficult, given Malarkey's new, redefined role.

Sinsay, who has had experience in hotel dining in Los Angeles, subsequently assumed a new position as executive chef at La Villa, a Little Italy restaurant. Malarkey insisted that Sinsay will have an opportunity to collaborate on an ever-changing menu, although it will still have the "whimsical" Malarkey imprimatur.

"We worked hand and hand at Burlap. He and I have goals we wanted to accomplish together, and we didn't get them done at Burlap," said Malarkey, who plans to be at the new restaurant seven days a week for the first three months once it opens at the end of the year. "I have my own style, which is very approachable, fun, a whimsical kind of cooking, and Sinsay is very precise. My job is to loosen him up."

Malarkey said he has already reinvented the Herringbone La Jolla menu, which had been more seafood-centric, adding such fare as clam and bone marrow flatbreads, a lamb and lobster pairing and lamb and smoked trout tartare.

Enlightened Hospitality opted to open Herringbone at the Mondrian, rather than another Searsucker, because the menu and vibe are more in keeping with the hotel's elegant feel, Malarkey said.

The dining group has been expanding rapidly, having already opened Searsuckers in Austin and Scottsdale. Brennan said Enlightened is investing more than $2 million to reinvent the former Asia de Cuba space, which included outdoor dining.

Malarkey already is taking over the Mondrian's room service operation, using a temporary kitchen in the 236-room hotel. In addition to room service, Enlightened will also be responsible for poolside food service and catering for meetings and private dining.

"At first, I was apprehensive about that and the banquets and the hotel lifestyle," he said. "I'm thinking like fried chicken at 3 in the morning and chicken and waffles in your room."