FOOD.

A Summer Place

Subtlety With Vitality At North Pond Cafe

July 23, 2000|By William Rice.

With the dining public so hooked on exotic flavors, you won't find the word "understated" in the culinary vocabulary of very many chefs these days. But in the idyllic Lincoln Park vale that shelters the North Pond Cafe, executive chef Bruce Sherman not only speaks of understatement but also practices it in his cooking and his plate presentations.

Sherman, 38, has followed a dizzying trail to the charming Arts and Crafts building in the park. His resume includes studying at the London School of Economics, running a catering firm in Washington, D.C., restaurant consulting in New Delhi and doing apprentice work in several prestigious kitchens in France.

At North Pond, 2610 N. Cannon Drive, where he arrived last October, the chef has turned away from rustic, hearty fare, though he continues to use heartland products in season and has developed direct relationships with several farmers in the area. Despite his time in India, Sherman does not seek a "bam!" effect with his seasonings. Working with all manner of highly perishable vegetables, greens and seafood, he feels "a commitment to seasonality." This, he believes, not only inspires creativity, but also brings "vitality" to the menu.

Here are two recipes from Sherman that are well suited to summer entertaining at home.

3. Quarter the potatoes lengthwise into long, slender wedges. Put in a second pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, strain out the hot water and cover the potatoes with cold water to stop the cooking. Drain.

4. When the water in the first pot boils, add 1/4 cup salt. Then add the green beans and count 2 minutes or until the beans are al dente. Remove with a strainer to an ice water bath. Repeat with the wax beans and then the royal beans. Drain and dry all the beans. Cut them in thirds and place in a large bowl. Add the tomato halves, green onions, optional blossoms and reserved dressing. Toss.

5. Toss the potato wedges with olive oil, salt and pepper in a roasting pan. Place in the oven and roast until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally.

6. Rub the steak(s) with oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Cook on the grill, turning once, allowing about 15 minutes for medium rare. Let cooked steak rest at least 5 minutes before carving into slices. Toss the potatoes with butter, chopped parsley and chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Fill four plates with potatoes, bean salad and steak slices.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO-MOZZARELLA TART

Four or five servings

1 sheet puff or pie pastry, available in the freezer section at supermarkets

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil plus more for drizzling

1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

Salt and white pepper

3 medium red tomatoes, heirloom if available

3 medium yellow tomatoes, heirloom if available

3/4 pound fresh mozzarella cheese balls

1 bunch fresh basil

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Thaw the puff pastry.

2. In a medium frying pan, over a medium flame, heat the olive oil with the sliced onions. Salt and pepper them, reduce the flame to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 25 minutes or until they turn a rich golden brown. Reserve.

3. Place the thawed pastry on a counter or cutting board and, with a rolling pin, roll out evenly to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Prick the pastry all over with a fork and transfer to a greased baking sheet. Place the sheet in the hot oven and bake 5 to 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

4. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack. Turn the oven down to 350 degrees. When the pastry is cool, place on the counter or cutting board. Use a plate or other round, flat item with a diameter of 5 inches to carefully cut out 5-inch rounds of pastry.

5. Slice the tomatoes into 1/8-inch rounds, and the mozzarella into disks as thin as your knife will allow. Pluck off the tops of the basil for plate decoration, then pull off 15 to 20 of the leaves, stack them together and cut them into very thin strips.

6. To assemble the tarts, place the pastry circles on the counter and on each one spread a thin layer of the browned onions. Now, atop the onions, create alternate layersand colorsof the heirloom tomatoes with the discs of cheese, working around the circumference of the tart. It should be possible to fit three red slices, three yellow slices and six cheese discs atop the onions.

7. Transfer the tarts back to the baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the thinly sliced basil and season with salt and pepper before placing them in the 350-degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese melts and begins to brown.