The North-east arete is missing in the main page; nevertheless it seems to be done regularly in combination with Hoher Angelus (although from Angelus you can also just ascent and descend Vertainspitze from the Rosimjoch via normal route).

North-east arete is accessed from Laaser glacier not directly at the Angelusscharte, but some hundert meters further westwards (skipping the towers in the arete). A metal bar signposts the point, where to enter the ridge. From there on the scramble is signed with yellow marks. Last meters to the summit were on snow.

Four years ago I first attempted to climb the Vertainspitze with my friend Wilco. Because there was a whole lot of fresh snow, we didn't stand a chance, but we didn't realise that until it was quite late.

This time there was no fresh snow at all, and it was pretty easy. To save an hour, I didn't start from Sulden but took the Kanzel lift. Without fresh snow, it took me just four hours from there to the summit. In hindsight, that meant there had been enough time to start from Sulden after all...

the route was marked, at the beginning an iron cable helped. Later some steep and difficult sections could be avoided in the flanks. After descent to Angelusscharte pass we climbed Hoher Angelus in addition.

It was much of fresh snow, no tracks visble in the snow fileds or glaciers. On the way was no sun, only clouds and fog. On the way to summit were only three persons that day - me and two German climbers. From the Rosimjoch we were going together to the summit - through the deep snow and not very difficult rocks. It was some dangerous, especially in the end of exposed summit ridge. Descent on the same way was very quickly - we hope to catch the last lift set-down ...