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Slowing down an X Valve

I have an X valve coming my way and I want to eliminate the RTing effect. I am going to be running lvl 7. I may get a cap made for the X, but until then what do I need to do? Where should I start with my adjustable tank output pressure etc. It is coming with the RT on/off.

I think it should be simple, but I tend to overthink things...and I am cheap

well the ULT was designed to eliminate the rt effect and only costs $30ish bucks. other than that a longer on/off pin and or a lower (but not too low!) tank output and that should get you the desired effect. Also single trigger frames tend to be harder to RT with.

I was going to say what squid said almost exactly... you could also pneu it for about the same cost as gettin a decent single trigger frame, with just enough tinker to wet your whistle. That's 100% getting rid of it, unless you turn the lpr down for some full auto

I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.

Originally Posted by renie

Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed

the high rates of fire associated with the ULT are attained by shimming the on/off assembly and effectively shortening the pin length. If you do not want any RT effect simply remove the shims from your ULT.

I would be willing to consider a deal with an EXPERT in the Pneu conversion. Hit me up with a PM if you have the proper milling and pneumatic background. I am not looking for a dremel tool botch job. I would like to complete any milling before sending these off for an anno.

I got a new gauge on my dynaflow and it is currently around 500 psi. I had to turn it down as the pressure was well over the new 600psi gauge I put on. That would explain the reactiveness along with the RT on/off. I plan to trade my RT on/off for the modified RT on/off that BT has and see if that helps eliminate the reactive trigger. I put in a new spring and powertube oring. Oiled it up and everything cycles like a champ. I still want to change out the powertube tip and/or bolt just in case.

What is the lowest pressure to have a properly functioning valve? AGD's site states 800 then I read about 400-450psi and then I saw something about 375? If the mag fires at (350psi?) then I would think 450 is about as low as you would want to ever consider. I hope to hit a chrono tomorrow and see where I am for fps as well.

I got a new gauge on my dynaflow and it is currently around 500 psi. I had to turn it down as the pressure was well over the new 600psi gauge I put on. That would explain the reactiveness along with the RT on/off. I plan to trade my RT on/off for the modified RT on/off that BT has and see if that helps eliminate the reactive trigger. I put in a new spring and powertube oring. Oiled it up and everything cycles like a champ. I still want to change out the powertube tip and/or bolt just in case.

What is the lowest pressure to have a properly functioning valve? AGD's site states 800 then I read about 400-450psi and then I saw something about 375? If the mag fires at (350psi?) then I would think 450 is about as low as you would want to ever consider. I hope to hit a chrono tomorrow and see where I am for fps as well.

The number I saw floated around was at about 650, the RT behaves just like a classic.

When I used an adjustable tank (Nitro Duck X-Stream) I had mine turned to around 725 which kept all RT effects pretty much tuned out/down.

This mag is still really snappy at 500 psi. It must be due to the RT on/off. After my first pull I can lightly tweek my finger and it feels kinda bouncey. Sounds like I am in the ballpark so the chrono will be the real test. I am currently using a 14 inch freak with a proper fit insert.

I hit the chrono today and I had to turn it up to 600+ to get anything consistant. It is still all over the board 255-300 range. Too many things to trouble shoot so I think I will get a new ninja reg and see if that helps. I think I need a new bolt too.