I like the Israeli one to be honest. It's a great sling, quiet, has a pouch I put cleaning/batteries in and when off prone, it's like being up against a wall! Plus, the added benny is that if you want to see what it looks like on a rifle, odds are you will get a hot Israeli chick in the pic too....just sayin...lol

I use single point. i'm trying to make myself feel comfortable with a 2 point, but I just can't do it.

I can help you feel comfortable with 2 point..

next time at the range work up your heart rate a little.. run your rifle mag till empty.. then drop your long gun so its hanging just by the sling.. transition to your handgun.. now sprint as fast as you can..

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I have a Magpul MS4 dual QD sling that allows me to switch between single and two point. As for mounts, my one rifle has a A2 rifle stock so I used a Troy M16A4 mount in the rear and a Magpul RSA QD pic rail attachment in the front. I picked the Troy because I use PRI gas buster charging handles and this one didn't interfere with it. My other rifle is a S&W M&P Sport II with the fake complaint carbine stock, so I used a TangoDown Carbine Sling Mount, because every other mount I saw required removing the stock, which is impossible with the complaint design S&W uses. The TangoDown mount is two pieces and is also able to work with the gas buster handle. I put a Magpul MOE SL M-Lock hand guard in this rifle, so I used their M-Lock QD Sling Mount. Believe it or not, getting this setup done on these rifles required lots of time, and some trial and error. A bunch of other mounts were bought and returned because they wouldn't work with my setups. I am happy with this setup as it is now, and I am glad I can use one sling with both rifles, and have pretty much identical functions on each.

It works fine if you use just one PROVIDED you determine which switch is the first in the series and install the TP-Link in that location. In case you don't know how to do that, this procedure will work. Kill power at breaker and open up both existing switches. Take the hot wire off both switches and separate it from other wires. Make sure it is not touching other stuff and then turn power back on. With a non-contact voltage tester see which wire is hot, only one will be - that is where you want the new switch.
Yes this will work in a four-way application (three switches), that is what I have in my kitchen. I want to install one in an application where there are four switches and I expect it will work but have yet to do that. Just ordered a few more today to do just that.