Raymond Capaldi's Chiko Roll at Marmalade and Soul

Raymond Capaldi reinvents the Chiko Roll at his new cafe in North Fitzroy.

Photography: J Forsyth

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Photography: J Forsyth

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Photography: J Forsyth

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Published on 28 February 2012

by Cara Waters

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There’s something we all love to hate about a Chiko Roll, the Australian snack made to be eaten on the move. It was something that didn’t involve using cutlery and a plate, and despite popular misconception, didn’t contain chicken. The Chiko Roll was at his peak in the 60s and 70s when millions were sold annually from milk bars and fish and chip shops around the country.

Since then, the Chiko Roll hasn’t had such a great rap. Restaurateur Raymond Capaldi (most recently of Hare & Grace fame) is looking to change that at his latest offering, Marmalade and Soul.

The Chiko Roll at Marmalade and Soul is made in-house and is filled with chicken mousse flecked with herbs, wrapped in pastry and served with slow roasted tomatoes and garlic jam. It’s sure to banish any memories of the traditional Chiko Roll, languishing at the bottom of the deep fryer at the local fish and chip shop.

Marmalade and Soul is on the site of the old Recreation Hotel in North Fitzroy, a pub that’s been around almost since the time of the Chiko Roll’s beginnings, but has been given a spit and polish by Capaldi.

The manager, Tim James, says locals were surprised by the transformation. “People are saying that it feels like it has been here for ages and that is the aim, so it doesn't smell new or feel sterile,” he offers.

James describes the menu as “tradern” (a mix of traditional and modern food), a term the team at Marmalade and Soul have created for the menu. It’s the only term they could think of to explain breakfast dishes like the breakfast trifle made with berries, yoghurt and a soaked bombolini and lunch offerings like the ‘Scooby Snack’ sandwich filled with prawns, pineapple and cucumber and the new and improved Chiko Roll.