The Inside Scoop on Savannah

Prior to my trip down to Savannah last month, I’d only ever passed through for a brief stop to cool down with ice cream at Leopold’s. It’s one of the city’s most famous—not to mention, delicious—institutions, and while it’s an obvious part of the whole “tourist experience,” it’s one tourist attraction you definitely shouldn’t miss, sweet tooth or not. (The restaurant sells lunch and other savory items, though you’d be crazy not to sample the ice cream.)

Leopold’s was born when a trio of brothers from Greece landed in the States via Ellis Island, learned the art of ice cream- and candy-making from an uncle in Indiana and opened the parlor in Savannah in 1919. In 1969, it was shut down for nearly 40 years when the brothers grew too old to be in the business anymore. The only child who might possibly take it over, Stratton, jetted off to Hollywood in pursuit of a film career. But he wasn’t done with ice cream: He returned to Savannah in 2004 with his wife, a Los Angeles native, Mary in tow, when his father passed away, and the pair reopened the much-beloved establishment in a new downtown location, using the soda fountain, cabinets, marble front, phone booth and other fixtures from the original parlor and maintaining the old-fashioned feel.

“There were very strong memories when I first got here,” Mary recalls. “People would say, ‘oh my gosh, Leopold’s ice cream!’ and they’d go into the flavors and things, and I thought how neat is that. I’m someone who loves oral history, and the soda shoppe is part of American tradition.”

And Stratton’s other dreams did come true, too: He’s not just one of the most celebrated ice cream makers in the country, but also serves as executive vice president of production Paramount Pictures. (Busy guy.) You’ll see movie posters from his films like Mission Impossible III and Paycheck and other cinematic paraphernalia adorning the walls of the parlor.

“People will always ask ‘what’s with all the movie stuff?’ And I’ll say, ‘oh, that’s my day job. I produce movies.’ And I get one of two distinct reactions. One: ‘why are you scooping ice cream?’ or two: ‘oh, sure you do.’ One day, this fellow was sitting at a table at front and asked the question and I told him the answer. He said, ‘oh yeah, and I left my Nobel Prize on the counter.'”

The best part of the whole visit was that Stratton Leopold himself happened to be there. Not only was he physically at the parlor, but he was actually behind the counter taking orders and scooping ice cream. How cool is that—a Paramount exec still maintaining such dedication to the family business? “I just enjoy people, love talking to folks, and this is real—versus movies, which can not be as real as other things.”

And he and Mary are as friendly as they come, too. Mary joked, “I never thought I’d go from being a pharmacist to a soda jerk!” The place is always packed, with a line out the door and spilling over onto Broughton Street; try to go midweek during off-peak hours if you can.

In honor of the Girl Scouts being headquartered in Savannah, Leopold’s has two custom-made cookie flavors each year, the current ones being a Thin Mint variety (which I would have ordered but they were all out!) and Savannah Smiles, the new lemon-flavored cookie mixed in with lemon custard (the one I ordered, which was divine). There are plenty of other flavors, sundaes and shakes—both regular offerings and seasonal specialties—and one of the most popular fixtures is the honey and almond cream, made with local Savannah Bee Company products. Judging by the looks of all the other parlor-goers’ grins, no one was dissatisfied with their choices!

Other places to get your sugar fix

On the way out of town back to Tennessee, I happened to passBack in the Day Bakery, a spot my friend Marissa had recommended after seeing it in a magazine article. And who am I to turn down vouched-for baked goods (or any baked goods, really)? Besides, I had seven hours ahead of me in the car, alone; obviously, I was going to get hungry. I just looked at a brief detour at the beginning of my drive as a time-saver once on I-75.

Everything about this establishment was downright cute, from the interior design to the fonts used throughout the shop. The sandwiches smelled delicious, and while I’m not usually a bacon fan—I know…you won’t listen to any recommendation I ever make in the future now, will you?—I was tempted by my favorite culinary accoutrement, the onion, and spontaneously ordered the Bacon Onion Jam panini. It’s the stuff dreams are made of, let me just say, and I will crave that sandwich until we meet again.

I also took an Old-Fashioned Vanilla cupcake for the road. Oh all right, and a Pink Lady, too. Bottom line: You need to factor Back in the Day Bakery into your Savannah getaway.

Back in the Day Bakery2403 Bull St.Savannah, Georgia912-495-9292

If sweet adult libations are more your thing, make use of Savannah’s open cup policy and grab a spiked slushie at Wet Willie’s down by the waterfront. I’d been to the South Beach location several years ago while working on a Glamour shoot and was happy to try the banana split slushie while exploring Savannah with my pals Marissa and Jackie. It was sweet—really sweet—and I didn’t even manage to finish half before I gave up.

There are approximately a bazillion flavors already on tap, plus you can combine any of the preexisting flavors to make your own concoction. The extensive menu also offers up suggested recipes.

I wish I’d read your Savannah articles before we honeymooned there. At the time I was like, “Eh, Savannah,” but now I want to go back! Especially for the boozy slushies. How did I not know that was there?!

I just found your blog via Elliott, and have really enjoyed your photos and writing. I just wanted to tell you that I concur wholeheartedly, as Savannah is EASILY my favorite city in the US. I was stationed there for some time back when I was in the Army, and have gone back at every opportunity available. It’s just so… charming! Keep up the good work! And I INSIST that you visit St. Kitts, too. Love that place! (I stayed at the Timothy Beach Resort.)

Oh, I remember when you went there! Can’t believe I totally forgot about it. There was also a cupcake place right around the corner from Leopold’s with a key lime cupcake that I’m sad I missed, too. More excuse to go back…

I know, right? I was floored that a Southern city had such a policy…though we do like our booze down South 😉 Then again, I’m from the area that boasts both Jack Daniel’s and George Dickel, and the county is a dry one!

My great-grandfather had a pharmacy/soda shop in a once-tiny town here in Utah. The building was destroyed decades ago, but my Mom has some of his banana split dishes and I’ve always loved them. A few years ago I found 20+ split dishes in the EXACT SAME PATTERN at a thrift store for 0.50 cents each. I bought them all and distributed them to my siblings. 🙂

No way, my great-grandfather ALSO owned a pharmacy (in Knoxville, not Utah). I’ve never thought about it, but I bet he had a soda fountain, too! He died well before I came along, and the pharmacy no longer exists.

I loved Savannah so much! I did get to go to Leopold’s, which was delicious, but not Back in the Day Bakery or Wet Willie’s (or the Savannah Bee Company). I guess that just means I have to go back, right? And I loved the open cup policy! It was so nice to be able to have a beer while wandering around town.

If you want to skip Paula Deen, but still get really good Southern cooking, go to Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House. Forget eating breakfast that day, and go get in line around 10:30. It is cash-only, family-style and some of the best food in the city.

Other tasty places are:

The Olde Pink House – Eat at the bar or outside and order off the same menu as inside, but no reservations needed.

The Crab Shack out at Tybee – Kind of kitsch, but the food is really good and worth the wait.

17Hundred90 Inn and Restaurant – Great food, and like every other place in town, supposedly haunted.

Vinnie Van Go Go’s Pizza – Cash only, but worth visiting an ATM for. My wife and I always go there our first night in town .VVGG is also next to one of the Savannah Candy Kitchen locations, and near Ellis Square.

The Pirate’s House – Good food, a great atmosphere and they have Chatham Artillery Punch – it *will* knock you out! Really for kids (pirate hats, a tour, etc.).

Those are just a few of my favorite places to eat in Savannah. There are too many more to mention.

If you are seriously planning a trip, almost any time of the year is great, though it does get warm in the summer. Go on and stay somewhere fun like the Marshall House or the Kehoe House of another old inn. Plan to be there at least a week, and take a couple of days getting familiar with the squares and the river front. Take a trip out to Tybee (North Beach Bar & Grill is good), visit the old forts – Jackson, Pulaski and McAllister, just hang out and have fun!

Oddly enough, Savannah has some of the BEST pizza I’ve ever had – Vinnie Van Go Go’s is in my top 3 pizza joints ever. Believe it or not, my number one place is in Georgia too: Antico in Atlanta. I think Georgia pizza deserves to be considered right at the top with New York and Chicago.

Someone else said that about Vinnies, too! Bizarre. I’ll probably be in Atlanta soon, so I’ll have to seek out Antico…if I have room in my stomach after burgers and nitro-shakes at Flip Burger, that is!

2. JCT Kitchen. They have great salads and sandwiches but are known for their fried chicken(get there early, the fried chicken runs out quick!). They’re also located in the same shopping center as Jonathan Adler and across the street from Anthropologie, so that helps!

Oooh, fantastic food right beside an Adler and Anthro? Dangerous! Will definitely have to check it out. Thanks for the recs! =) The OK Cafe sounds amazing, too. Scott and I had fried green tomatoes with goat cheese last week, and that might be my new favorite dish.

If I didn’t live here already, your stories would make me want to go, like, NOW. Each story has revealed another side of Savannah that our guests won’t miss out on – but I especially loved the Sassy story.

It was indeed our pleasure (www.savannahinns.com) to host you and the other Ladies. IMHO Leigh placed in your the right inn – Joey says he thoroughly enjoyed the attention you all gave him and wonders when you will return?

I’m with you, brother. World’s biggest sweets lover right here. And yesterday I was working on a magazine article about ice cream parlors, popsicle stands and gelato bars and have never craved sweets more!

Yum!!!! Yeah, we definitely enjoyed eating when we were in Savannah last year…all of the food (especially the dessert) at The Pink House were delicious! We didn’t go to these places you wrote about, but I wish I had known about them. I’m adding them to my list for next time!