Spicy Taino Chicken

Serves 4

The pre-Colombian Tainos had no significant form of domestic or
wild livestock, other than some species of aquatic birds or
parrots, to complement their diet of tubers and seafood. The
arrival of Columbus, and later the Spanish colonists, changed life
in Puerto Rico through the introduction of every imaginable
European wild and domesticated fowl. Quails, pheasants, ducks,
geese, turkeys, chickens, pigeons, guinea hens, soon became
commonplace on The Island.

As happens in nature, adaptation to the environment dictates the
ratio of survival for species. On The Island, none of the wildlife
species survived, but the domestic variety adapted well, and some
chickens and cocks eventually evolved into regional breeds
identified as del pais ("from The Island"). These are still bred
today in small numbers on farms and in backyards by sentimental
individuals.

I call the following recipe Taino Pollo Picante, as a personal
tribute to the Taino Indians, who were not able to overcome the
hostilities of a newly-imposed environment. And who ultimately
chose not to adapt.

Ingredients

1 4-pound chicken

8 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon rock salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

4 small hot chili peppers

1 teaspoon minced fresh gingerroot

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin seeds

1/2 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons paprika

1/3 cup Spanish brandy

3 chopped green onions

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1/3 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup burgundy

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

Garnish: lemon wedges

Preparation

Wash the chicken parts, pat dry and remove the skin. Place in a
deep square pan and set aside. In the belly of a mortar, combine
garlic, salt, oregano, and black peppercorns. Press down with the
pestle until garlic is crushed and peppercorns are cracked, then
add the chili peppers, minced ginger, and saffron threads. Slowly
pound the mixture until achieving a paste and incorporate the oil
slowly. At the same time, stir with a spoon to break down the
paste.

Spread the mixture evenly over the chicken parts, lifting the
chicken pieces to ensure distribution of the marinade to the bottom
of the chicken parts. Sprinkle all parts with paprika. Cover and
refrigerate overnight. If no mortar and pestle is available,
execute the steps in a blender set on low speed until all the
ingredients are coarsely chopped, then remove the canister, add the
oil and shake or stir to break down the paste and blend the
ingredients.

In a preheated deep skillet, over low-to-medium heat, arrange
marinated chicken pieces side by side and brown the chicken on all
sides. Spread the chopped onions, chopped tomatoes, and drizzle the
burgundy over the chicken parts.

Cover and finish cooking on low heat for approximately 35
minutes. Remove from heat and sprinkle chopped cilantro on the
chick prior to serving. You may serve directly from the
skillet.

Serving Suggestions: Serve with White Rice and
Black Beans, Puerto Rican style. On the side, an Avocado Salad
would be great, as would any tender root vegetable.