Importantly, a key theme is inclusion. Several restaurant owners explain how they are trying to include all workers in the benefits of higher wages. Not just the servers, but the cooks and dishwashers, too.

A telling line from the story:

Like many owners, Ms. (Amanda) Cohen has long wanted to close the yawning earnings gap
between those who prepare the food and those who serve it.

Amanda Cohen owns Dirt Candy, described in the story as “an upscale eatery on the Lower East Side of Manhattan.” With a no-tip policy, she charges patrons a 20 percent “administrative fee” and pays servers $25 an hour.

Interestingly, writer Patricia Cohen includes an all-important cosmic element in her story: What’s happening elsewhere? What can we learn here from something happening there? Who else is doing this?