Turkish Fish Salad? It's Better Than It Sounds

At Dögarz Döner, a salad stands up to the beef-and-lamb kebab.

Since its opening in Midtown last year, Dögarz Döner, has received consistently good reviews for its gourmet döner kebap, a Turkish cousin to the gyro, stuffed with standard protein fillings such as lamb, beef, and chicken. After a recent taste test, I can confidently echo these accolades, particularly when applied to the DönerMi, overflowing with seasoned strips of lamb and beef as well as chopped cucumber, cilantro, tomato and cabbage, laced with a pungent garlic yogurt sauce. Dögarz Döner uses supple, fresh Armenian bread rather than a wrap to encase this collage of unctuous and botanical ingredients. I heartily endorse the innovative twist—the spongy texture of the bread readily sops up the excess juices.

The unexpected rival to this terrific item is (you didn’t guess it), the DönerFi, which matches the same garden components with chunks of fried seasoned fish.

Perhaps this is why online amateur critics have taken to referring to this döner as the “fish salad.” It feels more appropriate to have your DönerFi served in lettuce cups rather than on a carbohydrate: the salty, briny notes of the fish are better countered with some refreshing roughage. And lest you worry that the absence of bread will lead this dish to being classified as rabbit food, remember to ask for a side of feta cheese and spicy sauce to rev up the fat and flavor.

Berlin may be the widely accepted capital of the döner kebab, but now with Dögarz Döner, Houston deserves at least a tip of the fez.