Lima: culinary capital of South America

There was a time when the only raw fish that Londoners knew
about was sushi and the stuff lying on slabs at Billingsgate
Market. Then came Peruvian-born chef Martin Morales and his Ceviche
restaurant in Soho, which kickstarted our love affair with ceviche
- fish marinated in lime juice and salt - and pisco sour cocktails.
The restaurant, which opened its doors in 2012, was a pop-up but
has been full ever since.
Recently, Morales has taken his Peruvian soul food and music on a
UK tour of restaurants in Bristol, Manchester and Edinburgh, and more, and now his new cookbook is bringing the
taste of Lima into homes across the country.
If you want to discover the original inspiration behind Morales's
cooking, here's his guide to the best places to eat in Lima - and
where to head afterwards for late-night fun. Arriba!

El Mercado Top chef Rafael Osterling's hit restaurant. Only opens at
lunchtime. Every dish is fantastic but do try the grilled octopus
and the avocado and fish tiradito.Calle Hipolito Unanue 203, Miralores (www.rafaelosterling.com)

El Rincón que no Conoces
The most complete Criollo restaurant serving Peru's traditional
dishes at a high level. Its Carapulcra is legendary, as are its
Picarones - pumpkin doughnuts. Only open at lunch and make
sure you book ahead. Calle Bernardo Alcedo 363, Lince (www.elrinconquenoconoces.pe)

La Lucha
In the heart of Miraflores next to the Kennedy Park. Peruvian
sandwiches are something very special. Try pork with salsa criolla
and a fresh fruit juice such as chirimoya - soursop fruit.
A great place for a cheeky late-night snack.Mariscal Oscar R Benavides 308, Miraflores (www.lalucha.com.pe)

La Paisana
My award for the 'Best Hole in the Wall Restaurant with FANTASTIC
traditional food' goes to La Paisana. Doña Sebastiana is the owner
and comes from the northern foodie town of Catacaos. Try the
Ceviche de Mero and Sudado de Mero. Mero is a large and powerful
white-fleshed fish from the Pacific. Doña Sebastiana is very
hospitable, opens only for lunch (there are usually queues but it's
worth the wait).Jirón La Libertad 1412, Magdalena

Chez Wong
Javier Wong is The King of Ceviches. He started his restaurant in
the garage of his house. He is the only chef in the kitchen, his
restaurant has no menu, he only uses sole and he only offers two
options: hot or cold, sweet or sour? Prepare to sit next to the
Prime Minister or a plasterer working at the building site next
door. Book in advance, open lunchtimes only.Calle Enrique León García 114, La Victoria

Maido Restaurante
Mitsuharo Tsumura has quickly become one of Peru's hottest chefs.
Maido's menu is spectacular and pioneers the Japanese-Peruvian
cuisine known as Nikkei. His tasting menu will leave you utterly
enchanted with the unique flavours from this cuisine. Booking is
advised.Calle San Martin 399, Miraflores (www.maido.pe)

La Picanteria
Run by the charismatic Hector Solis and his wife, this is
informal, fun and full of absolutely delicious dishes. Large
sharing plates are perfect for a group: choose your type of fish
and then how you wish it to be cooked. They are also pioneering
chicha brews in the old classic style and barman Ivan Del
Rio is mixing these into cocktails. Probably my favourite new
restaurant.Calle Santa Rosa 388, Surquillo

Amaz
Pedro Schiaffino is one of Peru's best chefs. His first restaurant
Malabar is ranked in the 100 of the world's best restaurants. At
Amaz, the focus is on Amazonian food, and for me, this restaurant
will pioneer food and ingredients from the Amazon for years to
come. Go now to be one of the first to discover the cuisine that
will be tomorrow's hottest trend and savour unique ingredients such
as fruits like camu camu and cocona, only found
in the Amazon.Avenida La Paz 1079, Miraflores (amaz.com.pe)

La Rosa Nautica
This is the perfect place to go on a sunny day at sunset. It's set
on Lima's busy beach, the Costa Verde, and I recommend you get a
seat by a window so you can watch the surfers riding waves, just
metres away.Espigon 4 Beach Circuit,Miraflores
(www.larosanautica.com)

AFTER DINNER: Head for the peña For great late-night fun filled with traditional culture,
food, live music and dance I suggest you go to a peña.
These are late-night traditional cabarets that start at 11pm from
Thursday to Saturday, and booking is necessary. These are not
places just for young people - in fact, most people who go are over
55 years old. You will hear traditional music and see traditional
dance. There is also a lot of comedy thrown in by the musicians and
performers. Three to try in the Barranco district of Lima are:
Don Porfirio (Calle Manuel Segura 115), De
Rompe y Raja (Manuel Segura 127) and Peña Del
Carajo (Calle Catalino Miranda 158).