I am getting ready to build adapter boxes for the double triodes. My thinking is to build two boxes, one for 6-volt tubes, and a second one for the 12-volt tubes. In this way I can keep it simple and eliminate the switch.

So.... I have a few questions for those of you who have more experience with projects such as these. First, I need to buy a 9-pin socket. It appears that there are two types, one for circuit board mounting and one for chassis mounting, so obviously, I need to buy the latter. But I do not know how to securely mount these sockets onto the box in such a way that they can sustain the considerable stress of inserting and removing tubes. Some have mounting flanges to allow the socket to be secured with screws, but I don't know I can use screws with a plastic box. Looking closely at Artsi's box, I don't see any screw heads, so I do not how know his socket is mounted.

Also, I notice that there are gold plated sockets. But I am wondering if it is harder to solder wires to gold-plated metal?

And what kind of connecting wire would be best? Solid core? Stranded? Gauge?

Thanks!

Was thinking also about how to mount that 9 pin socket so it doesnt come off eventually i would go with the chassis mounting socket .i would drill 2 hole for the flange insert 2 screws and and tighten the 2 nuts the only thing i dont know since i dont have the sockets yet is if you can put the flange outside or inside the box if inside looks better thighten nuts and it would be really sturdy only thing you would see outside is the heads of the 2 screws and washers to make it stronger so cover doesnt crack because cover is only .079 thousands of an inch thick which is about 5/64 (.075) so reinforcement would help imo. Heres a picture . Could put socket outside by drilling dia #1 after drill holes put screws in flange holes with nut underside with little lock washers on underside of cover and it should not move .Or if you would put flange inside box cover try to make hole size close as possible to #2 diametre drill holes for flange maybe try and find a big enough washer that would go around hole on top of cover so it looks nicer like rings around tube holes on mk3 as long as tube clears washers inside diametre

Was thinking also about how to mount that 9 pin socket so it doesnt come off eventually i would go with the chassis mounting socket .i would drill 2 hole for the flange insert 2 screws and and tighten the 2 nuts the only thing i dont know since i dont have the sockets yet is if you can put the flange outside or inside the box if inside looks better thighten nuts and it would be really sturdy only thing you would see outside is the heads of the 2 screws and washers to make it stronger so cover doesnt crack because cover is only .079 thousands of an inch thick which is about 5/64 (.075) so reinforcement would help imo.

I gather socket goes in middle you got your holes for flange . The plate is about 2/12 inches long . 1591msbk box dimensions are3.339" L x 2.205" W X1.023H looks like the plate is a bit to big correct me if i am wrong .Looks like socket is mounted like you say from inside the box the problem is making a nice hole if you dont have exact drill size i would trace the hole size you need on the cover using a steel compass so as to outline the hole size so if you finish by hand you have a reference.

I gather socket goes in middle you got your holes for flange . The plate is about 2/12 inches long . 1591msbk box dimensions are 3.339" L x 2.205" W X1.023H looks like the plate is a bit to big correct me if i am wrong .Looks like socket is mounted like you say from inside the box the problem is making a nice hole if you dont have exact drill size i would trace the hole size you need on the cover using a steel compass so as to outline the hole size so if you finish by hand you have a reference.

I didn't even think to check the dimensions of the box and plate! It's a good thing I haven't ordered it yet! lol

So..... it seems that I am going to get a lot of practice trying to cut nice round holes in plastic...... Maybe I should get one of these:

I have one of those bits you can start with that we will all see the size needed when we get the parts but if size is not exact outline circle to be able to finish maybe with a dremel or small file because cover is thin so possible to make a nice round hole Also i was looking for copper pin material for 7 pin socket and i found some with the wright size (18 gauge) in an old coax cable i had lying around so happy with that so now just have to straighten it

I am trying to find a way to use my 12AX7 tube, but so far I have failed miserably. I am not that handy, and working with the tiny parts on the Vector 7 pin adapter is very difficult for me - I even broke one adapter when I tightened up the solderless wirewrap leads with the screw in the middle. The little nut on the bottom rests in a well, and part of the bakelite broke off, so I cannot tighten the adapter any more.

I found a Chinese source for breadboards and socket adapters, and even for pins to make you own adapter using the Mullard socket protectors.

This guy seems to be much cheaper than the other source for adapters mentioned previously on this site.

Maybe somebody on this forum could describe to this seller what we want and how to wire a one piece adapter for the Little Dot amps. If an inexpensive one piece adapter was available, I would not be left out from sampling the new sonic delights.....

I noticed your headphone stand also very original. just curious you dont know if sockets will fit in right because whats the chance of them fitting perfectly unless you make bushings for them what kind of glue would bond ceramic and copper. to bad dont have parts readily available to fiddle with and to bad dont have a lathe!

Hi to the world of little dot tube rolling i am new & loving it totally. My music has come to life with the tube sound. Now my problem is i have a Little dot 1+ which arrived with Chinese 6J1 tubes, I swapped them out for a matched set of E95F 5654 tubes i have now ordered a matched set of Voshkod 6J1P-EV These are supposed to have grooved tubes & are supposed to be the best EF95 types. As a complete novice to this tube rolling & i don't know wot i am doing so is there anyone please that can tell me if they are correct & ok to use in my Little Dot1+. Big thanks to all who asked, my spine surgery went well & i am home again now it's a long road to heal.

Hi to the world of little dot tube rolling i am new & loving it totally. My music has come to life with the tube sound. Now my problem is i have a Little dot 1+ which arrived with Chinese 6J1 tubes, I swapped them out for a matched set of E95F 5654 tubes i have now ordered a matched set of Voshkod 6J1P-EV These are supposed to have grooved tubes & are supposed to be the best EF95 types. As a complete novice to this tube rolling & i don't know wot i am doing so is there anyone please that can tell me if they are correct & ok to use in my Little Dot1+. Big thanks to all who asked, my spine surgery went well & i am home again now it's a long road to heal.

bundy

Good to hear that you are on the mend! Yes, indeed, the Voskhod 6J1P-EV are perfectly safe to use in your LD. Enjoy! :)

Yesterday, I received a Tung-Sol 5751, dated 1960. Again, this is a premium version of the 12AX7.

However, it will be a while before I roll this tube, as I have just replaced my no-name Chinese DAC with the Audio-gd Fun. With two major changes, this DAC and the US Amperex 6922 / E88CC, I need some time to recalibrate my ears. I can say, that with these two changes, the sound I am getting from my little LD 1+ is pretty amazing. :)

Oh, the white box? I finally found a good use for a sleeve of 6AG5s lol. It provides a little isolation between the tube socket and the LD transformer. :)