Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Lahore da jawaab nahi!

This appeared in Mumbai Mirror....

I am back after a glorious trip, and here are two images taken at the Lahore Lit Fest. The puss in boots is Mehr Tarar, who became notorious as the ''óther woman'' in the Shashi Tharoor - Sunanda Pushkar tragedy.

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The seductive lure of
Lahore…

Inshallah! I am keeping my fingers crossed
I’ll be in Lahore when you read this. The Lahore Literary Festival has grown
into an important property in a very short time, and may soon rival our very
own Jaipur Lit Fest. I jumped at the invitation to participate in its 2014 edition
which has attracted several authors from India,including Vikram Seth and Amit
Choudhary. Of course, Pakistani biggies
like Mohsin Hamid and Kamila Shamsie will be participating as well . I am
looking forward to three sessions (“India a Cultural Conundrum’ being one), and
a book signing at Liberty, the largest bookstore in Lahore, where I am sure
I’ll be asked a hazaar questions on the controversial Wendy Doniger book. I
have been to the Karachi Lit Fest and enjoyed it hugely. I couldn’t make it to
last year’s edition much to my disappointment since my visa didn’t reach on
time. Now,with less than 24 hours left for our flight to Amritsar ( and then on
to that dramatic walk across the Wagah border), I am understandably jittery. The
organizers tell me other invitees like Mira Nair have made it across the border
smoothly and safely. So, here’s hoping my next column will be a post-Lahore
one.

This is my third trip to Lahore . To me, Lahore is like a veiled houri – full
of intrigue, beauty and mystique. Lahore is seriously oomphy. Differences
between Lahore and Karachi are a lot like the differences between Delhi and
Mumbai. Karachi being a commercially driven port city, the mentality of the
people is similar to ours – Dhanda matters. Time is money. People are like
worker ants, rushing around from shop to shop, office to office. The level of
education here is possibly the highest in Pakistan. One meets well qualified
professionals – mainly CAs, bankers, doctors, IT professionals. Most people
converse in Sindhi. The city itself isn’t half as pretty as Lahore. It’s more like
Mumbai, without Mumbai’s glittering skyline and impressive Sea Link. And, of
course, minus Mumbai’s glitz and glamour.

Aaah
– Lahore! Let me put it simply : Lahore is lajawab on many levels. If one
leaves those burly, tough looking cops, fierce Generals and oily politicians
out of the picture, it’s easy to fall in love with Lahore. It is an
extravagantly romantic city. The kind of destination that makes you long for
languorous trysts on moonlit nights, clad in flowing muslin, ittar on the wrist and a poet spouting
flowery verse, with indolent companions
greedily feasting on partridge… and compliments. Lahore is a complex and
layered city, with incredibly creative people doing incredibly creative things
– everyone is a closet shayar. The begums of Lahore are stunningly beautiful
and supremely stylish. They seem to float and glide, not walk or stroll. All
their ‘adas’ make them irresistibly beguiling. They wear their impeccably cut
clothes with enormous elan, while their make - up tricks could give international
make- up artists a serious complex.

The rich in Lahore are seriously, seriously
rich. They enjoy their wealth with complete insouciance. The decadence of the
rich in Lahore takes one back to another era when money spoke an unapologetic
language of power and privilege that was understood by all. The men are ahem…
unambiguously macho, sharply dressed and effortlessly gallant. If these studied,
old-fashioned mannerisms are just an affectation, let’s have some more of the same!
Everyone speaks robust Punjabi. Thinks Punjabi. Lives Punjabi. Extravagance
and sho-sha count for everything. Flashy
lifestyles are openly admired -
discretion is reserved for the faint hearted. Doesn’t it all sound soooo
Delhi!

Culturally, Lahore can be compared to
Istanbul (another favourite destination). It has a vibrant arts scene that
encompasses architecture, sculpture, movies, music and literature. As for the
legendary cuisine and hospitality, once you have sampled the mutton chops and
kebabs of Lahore, you can’t settle for anything less! Like Delhi, the markets
are crowded and teeming with locals shoppingand eating at street stalls
virtually round the clock. Compared to our steep prices, it’s possible to buy
quality fabrics (oh, those amazing cottons!) and designer outfits without spending
too much. As mehmaans from across the border, the warmth extended is genuine, and
all interactions are unfailingly polite. Lahore is self-indulgent and glorious.
Lahore resembles a pampered mistress, while Karachi is the neglected wife. I
enjoy both cities . I am lucky. I don’t have to choose!

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