It was the historic blue-collar quarter of Istanbul; now it's a thriving mix of bohemian boutiques and outdoor cafes

A buzzing port at the confluence of the Bosporus and Golden Horn since the Byzantine Empire, Istanbul’s Karakoy neighborhood fell on hard times in the last century. But thanks to the arrival of cruise ships and young entrepreneurs, the dockside district’s narrow alleys have awoken, as boho boutiques and outdoor cafés with grapevine trellises vie for space among grimy electric parts shops. Ten years after the opening of Istanbul Modern, the city’s premier contemporary art museum, Karakoy is no longer up and coming – it has arrived.

Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami: After seven years of restoration, this 1580 Turkish bath has reopened as an upscale oasis amid Istanbul’s bustle. Soothe your muscles on a heated marble platform and gaze up at its soaring dome punctuated with star-shaped skylights. After a vigorous exfoliation, a therapist swathes you in a mound of hot, fluffy soapsuds. Kemankes Mahallesi, Hamam Sokak 1; kilicalipasahamami.com.

Lokanta Maya: Trained in New York and seasoned at her father’s boutique hotel on the Aegean coast, chef Didem Senol Tiryakioglu serves bistro standouts such as fish cakes, potato croquettes, zucchini fritters with yogurt sauce, and caramelized sea bass with persimmon inside an elegantly simple, wood-floored dining room. Her cookbooks, one of which is available in English, are acclaimed by the city’s gourmets. Kemankes Caddesi 35A.

Istanbul Modern: Arguably the original force behind Karakoy’s renaissance, the cultural giant showcases a strong collection of paintings, photography, and sculptures by Turkish artists. Rotating exhibitions take place in the basement, known for its book-covered ceiling. The balcony café, with its waterfront panorama of Istanbul’s historic skyline, is worth a visit alone. Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Liman Isletmeleri Sahasi Antrepo D4; istanbulmodern.org.

Kagithane: Skip the touristy postcards and pick up witty Istanbul-inspired greeting cards and T-shirts at this shop in the newly renovated French Passage, a historic arcade that connects two streets. In addition, you’ll find sketch pads inspired by old Turkish textbooks and sassy notebooks bearing colorful hourglass teacups or simits (sesame bagels). Kemankes Caddesi, Fransiz Is Gecidi 10.

Karabatak: New cafés seem to pop up every week in Karakoy, but this Vienna-inspired coffeehouse remains the district’s most popular hangout. Grab an outside table for the best people-watching over a Wiener Mélange and a Sacher torte, two of the menu items that make Karabatak so beloved. Kemankes Kara Mustafa Pasa Mahallesi, Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak 7; karabatak.com.