I can't guarentee you have the same problem but my Jenn Air did the same thing.

BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor. The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources) Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them. My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed. TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to dltatsjc@aol.com and I’ll try to help.Good luck.Thanks for this site..

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There are two common scenarios with these Thermador wall ovens fitting what you've described. The harness to the display from the control board is loose (not likely) or the display itself is failing (most likely).The issue with these displays is they lose their intensity over time because of the fluorescent tube technology they use, hence the only remedy is to replace the control/display kit...the display only is not available, but a "kit" is.

You can find these "display kits" at "repairclinic.com" and similar to what I've attached here...**Your other option, and the one I recommend, is to have the existing display and control rebuilt...the down side is this will require the parts to be removed and sent away**You may find other suggestions or "band aid" remedies on-line, but in my experience this is the sure way to go. Here you'll find all the info pertaining to this option by clicking on the link I've provided below

Grab a multimeter and set it on impedance (Ohms).Remove first temperature probe and then heating element.If either probe or element is reading open (ohms infinity), then replace the part.

If both probe and elements are not open, then the problem is either wiring or oven electronic control. The most common fault resulting in no heat is the temperature sensor located inside the oven cavity.

Hi, i found out from Thermador customer service that error code F64 means that the lower fan switch (located inside the bottom trim on the right side) is not being detected as closed. In my case, this was because the header (P4) on the Display panel had broken loose from the PC board and was no longer making contact. P4 is where the lower fan switch wires connect to the control boards (actually the display panel).

You have not mentioned if the oven has displayed any error code so I will take that for what it is...there was none shown.

With that, I`d start by looking for an overtemp cut-out tripped. Did this problem start following a self clean cycle ?

Here`s what and where to look for for this,

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

**Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...

Ultimately it could be a faulty relay board or related to the timer, but I`d start with the hi-limit cut-out tripped first.

If you feel capable of repairing this yourself I can send you a complete service manual in a "pdf" attachment, however you`d need to provide an email address to where I could send it to you.

Other than that if you call in a pro just be sure they are an authorized B/S/H/ service provider ( B/S/H/ is the parent company for Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Siemens products ).

Let me know and I`ll watch for your reply and respond as soon as I can.

Have 2 Thermador ovens, SMW272 and SC302. Both have display failure. Just repaired one with replacement display. It did not require a new control unit or harness. Have not opened up second unit yet as display is still dimly/slightly visible.

Called Thermador and received no offer of replacement parts or service. Numerous other web reports of similar failures. My neighbor has 2 dead ovens also unfixed because of outrageous repair estimates ($600 each). Do not recommend this brand.

Full kit including display, control, and harness ordered on Ebay for $170.