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The washer tub seal leaked

After removing the agitator and drive bell by pulling on them HARD, I found that the lock nut and hub were corroded in place. I used grinding wheels to remove them which took over an hour. The internal and external threads needed to be cleaned up with tap and die and the splines had to be filed in order to get the new hub on the shaft. I did not use antiseize compound. The tub seal went on easily and the lock nut was guestimate torqued using a wrench made for water heater elements. The drive bell seal was very stubborn. It is normally pressed on with a special tool, but I had scrap pipe sections that fit the inner and outer press-points and used a large hammer to drive it into place. The washer does not leak any more. Total time was around four hours.

Bad upper bearing, belt burned in half, filled room with smoke

This was a complete tear down of the washer. I don't think I missed removing anything. The hardest thing to remove was the top seal hub. But I had a puller that worked OK but broke it (hub)upon removing. Not a worry since I know it was going to be replaced. Didn't use idler shaft has the original is swedged onto arm. I just polished out the original shaft and re-lubed it. The replacement shaft was threaded & would have made me grind off the original & bolt it to the arm ( NO NUT PROVIDED WITH SHAFT EITHER) The pulley I received was narrower then the original but used it just the same, I didn't think it would matter as it floats on the shaft and will move with the belt. You must be very careful not to damage the plastic tub if you do it's new washer time anyway. Being in the mechanical - electrical trade the last 30 years this wasn't that hard for me. And since I have a lot of tools to work with it wasn't a issue if I could. Still this isn't a job for a novice or some one without mechanical skills. and room to tear it apart. It takes up a lot more room when it's in pieces!