I actually tried the bicycle tire patch, it lasts a couple days. After finding this post I patched it from the inside to tide me over until I can find a better solution. I am actually considering junking the whole thing and going back to a top loading washer. So far I have had a broken strut, punctured internal drain hose and despite my best efforts (using very little HE detergent/ leaving door open after use / cleaning trap) the washer stinks of mildew.

Here in the UK it is recommended to carry out the hottest wash the machine can do ,at least once a month to kill off bacteria as low temperature washes do not kill the bacteria. Most washers in the UK are front loaders and people here wash at low temp.The bacteria cause the door seals to turn black if not killed off by high temp washes. So I change more seals because of this than seals that are damaged.

I don't recall ever having to change one on a stacked pair, but I do believe your washer and dryer are regular separate units simply connected with a stacker kit.

I believe you will need to remove the dryer if you are going to remove the top of the washer and so on like I showed above. I have never replace a bellows on any front load washer without removing the front and I think on all brands that requires removing the top too.

Seems that the dryer is bolted to the top of the washer using the stacking kit -- so removing the top of the washer is going to be an enormous task, and beyond my abilities. And I'm not willing/able to spend the hundreds of dollars a service call for this would likely cost.

Upthread, someone had recommended using a sealant product to try to fix a front leak -- is there any more information about this? (How to use it, where to apply it, etc...)

Otherwise, I'll have to continue with my "towel in front of the washing machine to soak up the leaks" method...