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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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PICKUP PLATE INSTALLATION Remove the existing trigger/points plate and rotor, points cam and advance. Refer to the bike’s Service Manual for the proper procedure. EVOLUTION AND LATE MODEL SHOVELHEAD V-TWINS 1. From inside the cam/ignition housing, feed the free end of the MSD pickup harness through the wire access port. Note: The harness includes a heat-resistant acrylic sleeve that fits snugly inside the port opening. Do not pull the sleeve completely through the port. It must be positioned to protect the wires as they pass through the port opening. 2. Mount the MSD pickup plate inside the housing (Figure 1). Note the “adjusting notch” on the edge of the plate. This notch must be located over the series of “steps” inside the housing (about the 7 o’clock position as you face the housing). One of the sensor units will be at approximately 12 o’clock. SPORTSTER MODELS 1. On Sportsters, the wire access port must be enlarged. Use a 9/32″ drill bit to enlarge the wire port. 2. Remove the wire harness clamp of the pickup assembly and route the wires through the port. 3. Mount the MSD pickup plate inside the housing (Figure 2). Note the “adjusting notch on the edge of the plate. This notch must be located over the “cast notch” inside the housing (about the 11 o’clock position as you face the housing). The shorter of the two sensors will be approximately in the 9 o’clock position. 4. Install the hold-down/standoff screws with flat washers until they are snug – do not tighten at this time (Figure 3). 3. Put the MSD rotor in place on the end of the camshaft. The locating pin in the rotor bore must align with the groove in the cam. Do not force the rotor on the camshaft! Push the rotor into place until it is tightly against the end of the cam then snug the retaining screw. 4. Check the distance from the outer surface of the pickup plate to the end of the installed rotor (Figure 4). If necessary, add shims until the measured rotor height is 9/16″ (+/- 1/32″). 5. When the rotor height has been verified, remove the retaining screw, place a drop of Red Loctite on the threads and reinstall the screw to the factory recommended torque

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Clean the air filter Pull off the right-hand side panel and remove the two nuts which secure the air filter cover. Withdraw the cover, checking that the sealing gasket is in good condition, pull out the retaining spring and withdraw the element assembly. Peel off the inner and outer foam sleeves. Wash all components in white spirit (Stoddard solvent) or in warm water and detergent and dry them thoroughly. Soak the foam sleeves in the specified oil, then squeeze them gently (do not wring them out or they will be damaged) to expel all surplus oil. Refit the sleeves to the element frame. On reassembly ensure that all components are correctly fitted so that unfiltered air cannot bypass the element. 2 Check the spark plug Remove the spark plug cap, unscrew the plug and check its condition, comparing it with the photographs on page 65. If it is badly worn or fouled it must be renewed. If it is fit for further service check the gap and reset it if necessary, as described in Chapter 3.8. 3 Check the valve clearances It is important that the correct valve clearance is maintained. A small amount of free play is designed into the valve train to allow for expansion of the various components. If the setting deviates greatly from that specified, a marked drop in performance will be evident. In the case of the clearance becoming too great, it will be found that valve operation will be noisy, and performance will drop off as a result of the valves not opening fully. If on the other hand, the clearance is too small the valves may not close completely. This will not only cause loss of compression, but will also cause the valves to burn out very quickly. In extreme cases, a valve head may strike the piston crown, causing extensive damage to the engine. The clearances should be checked and adjusted with a cold engine. Place the machine on its centre stand and remove the rocker cover, taking care not to damage the 0 ring. Remove the gearchange pedal and the left-hand outer cover to expose the generator rotor. Remove plug and allow old oil to drain Remove the spark plug, then slowly rotate the engine anticlockwise by way of the generator rotor, watching the inlet valve. When it has opened and closed again (sunk down and risen up to its original position), rotate the engine further until the T mark on the rotor periphery aligns exactly with the raised index mark which is positioned between 12 and 1 o’clock (from the crankshaft) on the generator stator. The engine will then be in the correct position for checking the valve clearances, namely at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke; check that there is free play at both rockers. Using a 0.08 mm (0.003 in) feeler gauge, check the clearance between the top of each valve stem and its corresponding rocker. The feeler gauge must be a light sliding fit, with the rocker and valve stem just nipping it. If necessary, slacken the locknut, and turn the small square-headed adjuster to obtain the correct setting. Tighten the locknut, holding the adjuster at the same time to prevent it from moving. Finally, recheck the setting and then repeat the procedure on the other rocker. 4 Check the contact breaker points and ignition timing Note: since the generator stator plate is located by its countersunk retaining screws, the ignition timing can only be altered by opening or closing the contact breaker gap; therefore both operations are described as one. The full procedure is given here for ease of reference, but if the points are found to be in good condition and if the gap has not altered or is within the tolerance, then the ignition timing will be sufficiently accurate and there will be no need to carry out the full check. First remove the gearchange pedal, the left-hand outer cover, the spark plug and the left-hand side panel

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1)Fasten the clamp to the electronic module using the 4-4O x 5/16 screws and lockouts provided. The damp and nuts go on the inside of the case. 2)Remove the fuel tank. Attach the module to the frame in the location selected. Cut off excess clamp material. 3)Remove an engine case or valve cover bolt and fasten the ground lug (black wire) securely to the engine. DO NOT ATTACH TO FRAME. 4])Locate the two ignition coils (they are positioned behind the left side cover on some models). There is a white wire going to the positive side of one coil that carries the switched 12 volts. A short blue/black wire then connects that point to the positive side of the other coil. Connect the separate red wire included with the kit to the spare spade terminal that is available on the positive terminal of the second coil. 5)Plug the red wire coming from the electronic module into the red wire installed in Step 4. 6)Remove the cap from the contact breaker housing. Remove the alternator cover, timing mark inspection plug, and spark plugs. 7)Remove the two screws and clips holding the points plate to the housing. Remove the screws holding the condensers to the housing. Disconnect the red and green wires where they plug into the wire harness (or coils), and remove the entire points/plate/condenser assembly. 8)Make sure the top of the housing is clean. Place the DYNA III sensor plate on the housing and orient it so that the wires exit to the rear. Place one of the original wire grommets on the front end of the plate and secure it with the screw and clip previously removed. Route the sensor cable wires through the other grommet (2 wires in the largest hole) and secure with the other screw and clip. Before tightening the plate screws, make sure the plate does not obstruct the cap screw holes. 9)Using a hex wrench in the alternator bolt, rotate the engine forward until the right hand cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (D mark aligned with index mark on engine case). 10) Make sure the points cam is free of dirt and grease, and slip the DYNA III rotor over the cam Push the rotor down until it’s flange is in contact with the top of the cam. Orient the rotor so that the mark on top aligns with the line on the left (right cylinder) sensor. While pushing down on the rotor, tighten the set screws using the alien wrench supplied with the kit. 11)Rotate the engine by hand and check run-out (wobble) of rotor by watching the rotor/sensor gap. If the rotor is installed correctly, there should be no more than . 005 run-out, and it should not come in contact with either sensor. As a final check, turn the engine with the electric starter and observe the run-out. 12)Connect the three sensor cable plugs to the module receptacles, matching the red, white, and black wires. 13)Plug the remaining red and green wires onto the spade terminals where the original points connected, matching the colors

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INSTALLATION 1. See the WHEEL section of the Service Manual for brake disc removal and disassembly procedures. 2. See Figure 1. Assemble and install the new brake disc (1) as described in the WHEEL section of the Service Manual using the new screws (2). Tighten the screws for front brake rotor (disc) kits to 16-24 ft-lbs (22-33 Nm). Tighten the screws for rear brake rotor (disc) kit to 30-45 ft-lbs (41- 61 Nm)