The most I have paid is for the third one which is from a 2002 Subaru Legacy and is a tdo4L. I think once I wear out the second one it might be a great performer. I might have to change turbos this winter if I can't find some other upgrade to do.
On my list of things is a new header with shorter pipes but since I'm tight and lazy it might just have to wait.

The buggy is running too good right now to mess with it.

Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.

Hey guys pretty new on shoptalk... So hello. I look forward to hanging out on here more often.

What brings me here is a Turbo Rail with a supposed 2xxx cc ??? Single weber blowthrough.
It feels more like a 1915 to me but whatever.

The problem is that the turbo wont build boost. 1st and 2nd gear I can only get 1 pound , if I'm on it in 3rd gear around 4k rpm, it gets about 3 lbs. Ive tested the wastegate, seems to open around 8psi. Smoked & Pressure tested intake up to 8psi , Throttle shaft has a leak, and just some minor things, nothing that leads me to that much lost pressure.
Lastly I cap'd off the wastegate, and still the same dance. I'm thinking that maybe the turbine housing is too big for this application??? Included are some pictures.

Let me know what you think,
Thanks

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Hey SlingShot, stick your post in the main 'forced induction' page - a lot of people don't look at this thread.

Anyway, my problem of the day?

I've got a big oil leak! I've lost a big amount my oil and it's appeared as a big oil slick on the drive over about 2 weeks! Gave the car a right good thrashing about 2 weeks ago, down some pretty bumpy back roads. I guess it only started to leak after I parked it up.

My problem?

Every time I get the chance to get outside and take a look.... It's pouring down with rain!

Got my turbo 1776cc up and running today enough to take it for a spin around the block.

I'm using a blow through setup single center mount 40IDF
Conditions are
Idles great
No stumble on transition
Sputters a bit through mid range ( no popping )
Pulls like hell on the top end

Jetting is 60 idle 175 main jet 175 air correction.
If I've done my homework correctly it seems that I should try a smaller main jet as it controls the middle RPM band starting 2500tpm to say 4k rpm.
Thoughts from the experts?
Troy

I would stop driving and get a wideband then I would add more fuel like a 200 run it and tune it from there. Better to be too fat than too lean. I smoked a set of total seal rings on one run. I was running high octane and it still went lean for a second. Boom.

Thanks I started at 200 it would barely run and bogged down like hell , so I went 175 and it got a lot better. Driveable on bottom end and top end now. I have an innovate LC2 but can't get it to calibrate so I need to call their tech line tomorrow.

Heinz Willie wrote:Thanks I started at 200 it would barely run and bogged down like hell , so I went 175 and it got a lot better. Driveable on bottom end and top end now. I have an innovate LC2 but can't get it to calibrate so I need to call their tech line tomorrow.

Just a FYI thought I'd share,works for me and the price was right
Bracing a carb,, for turbo application,This is a must to support the carb.
looking around the shop 'scrap pile'
doesn't everybody have an old busted folding camping chair powder coated already?
PERFECT for bracing,,,hacksaw,drill and a vice
I used two one under down brace to header mount near #2 cylinder exhaust stud
and the other to the compressor housing to carb base stud,hope u can see in the pic my flash no workie
Maybe this will help someone Madmike

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half a tank of racefuel (about 3gal.)to make two 1/8th mile passes
looked in the carb at idle and fuel is 'really' dribbling out the aux.vent
might be the newly installed 3.00 needle&seat? I'm gonna try the 250
I really want to try a 4 barrel carb or bigger vents,have only 30's in it now, 2276,,42x37.5's w120

Anyone who has a stock mechanical fuel pump "boost referenced" by plumbing it into the manifold have any issues with going lean on hard deceleration? I'm actually fat on my AFR gauge on boost like 10:1 ish when I first start it cold it idles at 15:1, but take off and run it for a bit or coast down a long hill and it goes to 21:1 and just dies. My theory is the high vacuum signal of a center mount carb on deceleration or after periods of idle isn't allowing the diaphragm in the fuel pump to refill the float bowl.... (I checked and I have 3.5psi fuel pressure at idle) Anybody? I'm considering putting in a check valve so it only senses boost and not vacuum....