At long last, a complete video for adjusting the valve lash on a Honda Rebel 250. Please keep in mind that this video pertains to a 2008 Honda Rebel 250 and you should always verify the specifications of your own bike by using the service manual.

Wow I am thoroughly impressed. What a great instructional video. I am just getting ready to adjust my 2008 rebel in the next week and this video will be invaluable to me! Thanks for the time and effort put into the making of the video. Oh and I loved the OUTAKES at the end!!

Great video, and wonderful timing -- I'm about to take a week and a half off work, and my Rebel's tank is almost empty (meaning I'm less concerned about slopping fuel over myself as I take the tank off). Thanks!

Nice, Zep. You're a big help as usual, and your videos will make things much easier for the inexperienced. One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!

Nice, Zep. You're a big help as usual, and your videos will make things much easier for the inexperienced. One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!

Anyway, great work as always, and thanks!

-Detour

Ahh the magic of editing

actually, best of my understanding, its not necessary to take the plugs out at all. seems that we do this mainly to get them out of the way.

And yes. great vdeo. (all of them by the way)

Is there only 3 so far or did I miss some? At the rate your going Zep, were gonna need a FAQ slot just for your instructional videos.

One thing slipped by me, though: when did you pull the plugs? I saw you take the boots off, but the plugs were just out of view for most of the rest of it, until they were out being gapped at the end!

I pulled them off just after removing the fuel tank. I shot some footage of it but it ended up on the cutting room floor as they say. The footage wans't what I wanted it to be and I was running out of time. The video came out to be about 20 minutes as it was.

actually, best of my understanding, its not necessary to take the plugs out at all. seems that we do this mainly to get them out of the way.

And yes. great vdeo. (all of them by the way)

Is there only 3 so far or did I miss some? At the rate your going Zep, were gonna need a FAQ slot just for your instructional videos.

When I did my first valve adjustment which was NOT very long ago, I'm thinking perhaps less that 700 miles, the plugs installed allowed compression to build while cranking on the crankshaft. Was much easier with them out.

Here is something that I forgot to mention. After I did the valve adjustment and a quick run around the block which was seen in the video, I went for a longer more thorough ride.

As it turns out, I managed to squeeze a little more power out of the bike and gained approximately 2 MPH in additional top end bringing me up to about 74-75 MPH (indicated) under it's own power. This translates to 70-71 MPH (GPS).

I was able to get it up to 84 MPH (indicated) which is 79 (GPS) using traffic flow, wind at my back, going downhill while smiling.

The engine ran alot smoother and cleaner and had even less noise than before. I'm impressed with the results of this valve adjustment.

Fantastic video Zep! Thank you for the major effort to help others. As someone else pointed out the only thing I do differently is to torque the rocker arms and head bolts before checking valve clearance.

This is the best instructional video or write up that I have seen on adjusting valves and the sequence on getting a feel for the "drag" is awesome. Checkiing clearance before starting the adjustment is a great way to get a feel for "drag". Especially if you are new to wrenching.

Yeah, this looks pretty straightforward. I am absolutely going to do this myself next time.

One question though: The manual says to do it next at 4000 miles. Is there any merit to doing it more often than that?

Dag - if you aren't getting 80+ MPG and at least 70 MPH true I would do them. And setting them at .004" is a lot safer than trying for .002" or .003". 0.004" is not much more than the thickness of a human hair!

I have always checked valve clearance on manual tappets on my bike, car or scooter at about 2000 miles. That is about every 2 months for me. I even check my lawn mower every spring when it comes out of storage!

If you let it set for 24 to 36 hours (like Friday nite to Sunday morning) it shouldn't take more than about 1 hour to check the clearance. But do remember to check the rocker shaft and head bolt torque before checking the valve tappet clearance. Even though the dealer who did your 600 mile service should have done it, operating conditions and climate changes could have affected it.

Cylinder head/camshaft holder nut = 17 ft lb (8 nuts); head bolts = 9 ft lb (3 bolts). The SEQUENCE of tightening the bolts is also important since the tightening pattern distributes any stress on the head and block so that you don't distort the gaskets, etc. Factory manual says the correct sequence is: (1) left front BOLT (2) center rear bolt (3) right front bolt (4) right rear NUT (5) left front nut (6) left rear nut (7) right front nut [8] left center-rear nut (9) right center-front nut (10) left center-front nut (11) right center-rear nut. NOTE: The factory manual DOES NOT call for loc-tite on the head bolts or camshaft nuts. I use a 3/8" drive "clicker" torque wrench.

I think I get slightly less that 70mph true, and my mpg is around 75. I am planning to change the oil at 2000 miles, and I will do a valve adjustment then as well. I am really looking forward to it. I will probably hit 2000 withing a month. I think I am at 1300 now.

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