Chefs.Food.Wine … and cocktails

There was much to enjoy about the inaugural SF Chefs.Food.Wine event last weekend — including a lot of pretty impressive wine, fulfilling the third part of the title triptych. But admittedly there was a small swell of pride at Thursday night’s opening event at seeing all our Bar Stars doing what they do best.

Not that there was a doubt we had highlighted some impressive cocktailians. But to have them all under one roof (OK, tent roof) at the heart of Union Square, stirring, shaking and flaming up a storm, was ultimate gratification. You’d be hard-pressed to drink better at any one place at any time. Among those appearing: Brooke Arthur (Range); Martin Cate (the forthcoming Smuggler’s Cove); Marco Dionysos (until recently of Clock Bar; now a free agent); Reza Esmaili (Conduit); Neyah White (Nopa); Dominic Venegas (Gitane and more); Thad Vogler (Camino, Beretta, etc.); Carlos Yturria (Bacar and more).

Even with some Monday-afternoon quarterbacking here at the Chronicle offices, we couldn’t settle on which drinks we liked the best. They were all pretty spectacular both in flavor and execution. Among the feats pulled off: Neyah White’s gallons upon gallons of strawberry shrub. To wield that much vinegar probably requires a license in most states.

Here are a couple recipes from the lineup. Fair warning: One reason these drinks left such an impression is the level of advance planning most of them required. If you have other favorite drinks you encountered during the Union Square extravaganza, let me know and I’ll try to get recipes. Meantime, break out your kitchen torches and maple syrup.

The Dead Reckoning

This effort by Martin Cate was both seamlessly constructed and potent. Like many of Cate’s neo-tiki efforts, it will serve as a summer drink in both the traditionally sunny and San Francisco contexts

Combine all ingredients except soda water in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake and strain into a highball glass over fresh ice. Top with soda water. Stir gently to combine. Garnish with pineapple leaves, mint spring, and a lemon spiral.

Pacifico

For this rather intense effort — seared cinnamon and all — Dom Venegas wanted to source ingredients that could be found all around the Pacific Rim, hence the name. For the strawberry and pineapple juice, you’ll either want a juicer or a blender and a good strainer. Perhaps more of a weekend-project drink.

2 oz. blanco Tequila (Venegas suggests 7 Leguas)

1 oz. fresh strawberry juice

1 oz fresh pineapple juice

1/2 oz. infused agave nectar (see below)

1/2 oz. fresh ruby red grapefruit juice (optional)

1 1/4 tsp. cinnamon, freshly grated

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of black pepper

Combine the cinnamon, cayenne and black pepper and set aside. Place the Tequila, agave nectar and juices together in a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake and pour into an old fashioned glass — either straight up or over ice, your choice. Sprinkle a small amount of the spice mix on top. With a kitchen torch, very briefly flame the spices floating atop the drink to release the scents. Garnish with an optional pineapple frond.

Note: To make the infused agave nectar, take a bottle of agave nectar. Add several slices of fresh ginger and 1 tsp of cayenne. Let it sit for 1 to 2 days.