Tag: Chain Stitch

What is Stitch

Loops or loops of one or more threads when bound with each other, either by interlacing, interloping or intralooping or combination of those when sewing fabric and each unit of such configuration is considered as stitch.

Some Terminology Related with Stitch

Interlacing

During stitching when one
loop of one thread passes over another loop of another tread is called
interlacing.

Interlooping

During stitching when loop
of one thread passes through the loop of another thread is called interloping.

Intralooping

When a loop one thread
passes through the loop of same tread during sewing is called intralooping.

Types of Stitch Used in Garments Sewing

There are about 70 types of stitches are available and among them, 18-20 types of stitches are widely used in garments industries, also,2 to 3 types of stitches are used in making of garments for lailoring and domestic purpose.

British standard 3870:
part1:1991 have been classified according to ISO 4915:1991 into six basic types
of stitch.

Stitch
class 100: Chain stitch

Stitch
class 200: Hand stitch

Stitch
class 300: Lock stitch

Stitch
class 500: Over edge stitch

Stitch
class 600: Covering chain stitch

Stitch Class 100: Chain
Stitch

Stitches are formed by intralooping.

Each loop is inter connected with same thread.

There is no lower thread.

The needle carries the thread through the fabric and looper holds
the thread to enter as it descends for the next stitch.

Security of stitch is very poor, in case of breakage of one
stitch, it unravels very easily.

One or more needle thread is used for stitch formation.

From opposite sides it looks different.

Application of Chain Stitch

Temporary
stitching (e.g. basting) or for blind stitching.

Uses
for button holing, button attaching, hemming.

Stitch Class 200: Hand Stitch

Originally made by hand, now can be formed by machine.

Looks like domestic hand stitch.

It is produced from single thread passed from one side of the
material to the other side with each successive penetration of the needle.

This type of stitch is formed by special type of needle and
sewing machine.

Needle is double pointed with Centre eyed.

Uses Hand Stitch

Lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes.

Lapel

A
stripe of cloth is part of the front of the jacket or coat.

Disadvantages Hand Stitch

Time consuming process.

Higher cost.

Speed of sewing m\c is very slow.

Rare in use.

Stitch Class 300: Lock Stitch

Lock stitch requires at least two threads to form a stitch, a
needle threads that feeds from the top & a lower thread that feeds from the
bobbin.

Needle threads are passed through the fabric & are
interlaced by the bobbin threads.

A rotary hook catches the needle threads loop as it passes
around the bobbin & interlocks the two threads.

Appearance of the lock stitch is similar in both sides of the
fabric; it is a special feature.

Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.

Stitches are secured and security of stitches can be increased
by back tacking at starting and finishing ends.

Abrasion resistance of lock stitch is better because the
stitches are embedded in the fabric.

Uses of Lock Stitch

Joining
of facing, collar, pocket & other parts.

Specially
for top stitching.

Both
for domestic and industrial purposes.

Stitch
Class 400: Multi Thread Chain Stitch

Multi-thread chain stitch requires one or more needle that form loops as they pass through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside.

Threads are bound tighter by interlacing & interlooping.

It looks lock stitch at the top side & double chain at the
underside.

Looper thread is supplied from cone.

Need not back tacking at the starting & finishing ends.

Uses Multi Thread Chain
Stitch

Used
for long length sewing, heavy fabric sewing such as denim, attaching lace,
elastic.

Stitch Class 500: Over Edge
Stitch

Stitches are formed by two or more group of threads.

Formed from one or two needle threads with looper thread.

At least one group of threads pass around the edge of the
material.

Width of the fabric may vary from 3-5 mm.

Prevents the fabric from fraying.

They have high elasticity.

They cannot be unraveled easily.

Uses
of Over Edge Stitch

Widely
used for knit fabric.

Used
for decorative purpose.

Joining
of side seam, armhole of a shirt.

Inseam,
out-seam of a pant.

Stitch Class 600: Covering Chain
Stitch

Stitches are generally formed with three groups of threads.

One thread is needle thread, other is the looper thread &
another is the top cover threads.

Stitches of this class are the most complex of type it may
need upto 9 threads.

Covering chain stitches are often called flat lock or flat
seam stitches.