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On my first trip to Ireland, the customs officer stamped my passport and said simply, "Welcome home." The greeting brought tears to my eyes, even though...

Dotted with storybook castles and colourful towns and rich in dramatic shorelines and atmospheric countryside, there is no better place to forgo the limitations of a set travel itinerary than Ireland.

The country is a welcoming destination for travellers who prefer to journey from one colourful location to another at their own pace. There is an efficient network of bus and rail services, plentiful car rentals and the locals are only too happy to direct visitors to an unexpected discovery down the road.

Recognizing the needs of independent travellers, the Irish Tourism board offers Go-As-You-Please Ireland B&B Vouchers to make their travels simpler. These vouches are redeemable at over 1,600 establishments throughout the country. B&B owners will generally help arrange for local drivers and tours and point out must-see gems in their area.

Jewels of the south and west: Cork, Kerry and Galway

County Cork, known as the “rebel county,” has rich farmland and river valleys that give way to sandstone hills and hidden bays along the Atlantic. It’s home to Ireland’s oldest and most famous castle, Blarney Castle, where you can kiss the Stone of Eloquence and get the gift of the gab.

Cork City is known for its lively music and arts scene. This is a city built for walking where you can span the centuries by simply turning a corner. The 1624 Elizabeth Fort is a stone’s throw from the elegant St. Fin Barre's Cathedral begun in 1863. A few blocks away are the famous 18th century Shandon bells of St. Anne’s Church and the incongruous County Gaol: a beautiful castle on the outside, a grim reminder of 19th century crime and punishment inside. The seaport town of Cobh remains virtually unchanged since the Titanic departed from these shores in 1912. It has Titanic and other attractions devoted to its long maritime history.

County Kerry is one of Ireland’s largest counties and some say its most photogenic. Known as the “Kingdom,” Kerry is the Ireland you’ve seen in countless movies. It has three stunning coastal peninsulas, the country’s highest mountain range and the Lakes of Killarney in the mountain-ringed Black Valley.

Killarney National Park is a magnificent conservation area ideal for hiking and exploring. The park also features evidence of human habitation here in the Bronze Age, the ruins of the Inisfallen Abbey dating back to the 10th century and the 1448 Franciscan Muckross Abbey. The focal point of the park is the 19th century Muckross House, Gardens and Traditional Farms located close to Killarney Town.

Kerry is also a county for walking along quiet country roads that lead to beaches and unspoiled fishing villages. The most famous route is the Ring of Kerry, a 179-km road traversing the Iveragh Peninsula dominated by the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range.

The route is famous for spectacular views and villages serving seafood, pints and traditional music. The Kerry Way, Dingle Way and Beara Way are also favourite routes following ancient paths to early Christian monastic sites and medieval forts. Lovers of traditional Irish music often come to the Dingle Peninsula to enjoy its well-preserved musical heritage.

Finish off this route by visiting County Galway. Galway City, often called the City of Tribes, is considered the cultural heart of Ireland, a place where Celtic culture and literature are thriving. With over 50 arts organizations for dance, music, theatre and poetry, it is home to countless festivals and events.

Dotted with castles and buildings dating back to 1300s, it’s a city rich in history and is home to Dillon’s Claddagh Gold, the original maker of the Claddagh Ring.

Delve deeper into Celtic country along the coastal trail of Slí Chonnemara, (Connemara Way), that starts in Galway City and travels 220 km through smaller and even more traditional centres.

Many visitors take the ferry over to the Inis Mór, the largest of the three Aran Islands. This is the Ireland of Celts and early Christians.

Back on the mainland, more incredible sights can be found at the Cliffs of Moher along the Burren Way in North County Clare, a terrain notable for limestone hills and valleys. Connemara National Park also has some incredible scenery with over 3,000 hectares of heathers, grasslands and woodlands overlooking the famous Twelve Bens and or Na Beanna Beola mountain range. The highlight of the park is the 3.7-km walk up to Diamond Hill peak. Dublin and the southeast

You can easily spend several days wandering around Dublin visiting its many historic sites, pubs and museums. South of the city are the charming glens and rolling hills of the five southeast counties: Carlow, Kilkenny, Tipperary, Waterford and Wexford.

County Tipperary is a place for fishing, among other popular pursuits. At the enormous Rock of Cashel, you’ll see the iconic stone Celtic Cross but also some rare frescoes dating back to the fourth century. The Mitchelstown Cave is famous for its enormous, bizarre formations of stalactites and stalagmites.

Kilkenny City has a modern feel despite the cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. Behind its old-fashioned doors are stylish pubs and bistros as well as art galleries, boutiques and specialty shops. The sixth century monastery is now home to the famous beer – the original Abbey is at the heart of the brewery. The company is simply carrying on a tradition – monks started brewing the beer here centuries ago.

For a crash course in ancient Ireland, visit the 35-acre Irish National Heritage Park in Ferrycarrig, Wexford. The town of Wexford, meanwhile, hosts a renowned festival every year at its modern opera house, which opened in 2008. Close by is the crystal factory in Waterford. Visitors often take in its remarkable displays then head to Kilmore Quay, noted for its whitewashed thatched cottages, beautiful beaches and proximity to the Saltee Islands.

Northern renaissance

Northern Ireland has been transformed in the last few years and is drawing millions of visitors for its wide-ranging cultural and scenic attractions.

This is an especially exciting time for Derry-Londonderry. Northern Ireland’s second-largest city has been chosen as the 2013 UK City of Culture. It’s a chance for visitors to immerse themselves in everything that makes the city so renowned as a centre of Irish music, dance, art and literature.

Belfast is undergoing a renaissance of sorts thanks in part to Titanic Belfast. This six-storey, 11,000-sq.-m interactive museum is drawing people from around the globe. Visitors take glass elevators to the bridge, where they travel through nine galleries of exhibits.

From Belfast you can head to the scenic Causeway Coast and the nine valleys of the Antrim Glens. This winding route will first take you to Carrickfergus Castle — built in 1177 AD — onto ancient cairns and tombs, and eventually to the bizarre Giant's Causeway composed of columns of layered basalt created 60 million years ago by volcanic eruption.

South of Belfast are the Mourne Mountains and Murlough National Nature Reserve, with access to one of the finest beaches in the country. Hikers and bicyclists frequently travel along the Mourne Wall, a 35-km granite wall passing over 15 mountains. The coastal cities of Strangford Lough and Newcastle resort offer plentiful opportunities for hiking, sailing and angling.

If you go:

The governments run all railway and bus lines on the island. In the Republic of Ireland, CIÉ (Córas Iompair Eireann) runs the major bus lines Bus Átha Cliath (Dublin Bus), Bus Eireann (Irish bus) as well as Iarnród Eireann (Irish rail). It works jointly with Translink with its bus and railway lines to create connecting lines to all areas.

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