Magnetic Model Aircraft Fixture System II.I

As of 4-1-2017 - Amazon Store is Closed!

Amazon has terminated the service I was
using to sell my Fixture systems. Their new service does not begin
to meet my needs. It's a lot of work and not worth the effort to
migrate to the new service.

At this time I
have a professional constructing an online store for me. The
completion date is unknown but it should be up and running in just a
few weeks.

Until then I can use the new
Amazon service for individual orders. If you would like to
purchase one of my stock fixture sets or a custom fixture set then
email me the details of what you want and I can create an invoice
for you to pay through Amazon. If you don't know what you want
then I'm happy to help with that as well.

About Magnetic Fixture System II

Magnetic Fixture System II is the culmination of many years experience
producing and personally using magnetic fixtures while taking in
feedback from model-builders all over the world who build a wide range
of model aircraft.

These fixtures are much more versatile than my original design. A
number of very accurate production jigs ensures all system components fit
together well and that parts are interchangeable.

The result is a tool set that will help you build very accurate model
aircraft. The system is adaptable and a lot of fun to work with.

Your imagination and skill are the only things more important than your
fundamental building system. I understand that my system is a
significant investment. I don't take short-cuts and I don't use cheap
materials. I never ever want to be fairly accused of selling a poorly made product and
I do everything I can to make sure that never happens.

If you've been here before you'll notice several changes.
Most notably some new sets have been added, existing sets have changed and
pricing has changed.

Prices used to include discounts but those
discounts are now calculated at checkout. All stock sets fall within a
discounted range so will be less than the price listed when you check out.

Purchasing (Please read 4-1-2017 notice above)

These links take you directly to where you can purchase various
components of the Magnetic Fixture System. If this is your first time
here then I suggest reading the rest of this page to learn more about it
first.

Vertical Presses

Vertical Presses provide plenty
of thread to lessen play in the press bolt and prevent stripping.

Presses are attached with black oxide hardware that looks good with any finish.

Vertical Presses and Clamp Pads are made from a variety of quality hardwoods
such as maple, cherry and walnut. Presses and Clamp Pads
included in sets are always from the same wood. E.g. Your set
may contain all cherry, all maple, all walnut or all other species of wood
pieces.

All parts are shaped and drilled — even the holes for the blind nut prongs
to eliminate any chance of the clamp heads splitting.

Face Clamps mount on either side of any fixture at any mounting location.

Ordering and
Payment

I accept payment through Amazon Payments, check by mail or Western Union wire
transfer. Personal checks
are held five business days to clear before shipment. I do not accept PayPal.

Bank transfers are not accepted because multiple banks take a significant cut
as the payment works its way from the customer to me and there is no way to find
out in advance who those banks are or how much they will take. By the time
the payment reaches me a significant chunk of the payment is just gone. So
no bank transfers.

Finishing
Information

These are kits that require finish sanding, finishing and assembly before
use. No cutting or drilling is required. My fixture sets are a solid investment
that will last more than a lifetime if they are properly finished and
cared for. Almost any finish can be applied. I like Deft
Satin Brushing Lacquer for furniture but you can also use latex, enamel,
polyurethane, Danish oil, any rattle can paint or other finish that will work on wood which is just about
everything available. The fact is I don't know of any finish that
can't be used on wood.

I do not recommend water-based finishes however. I'm saying that
having never used any so it's entirely possible I don't know what I'm
talking about. I just wouldn't tempt fate because it's not hard to
warp plywood. If you do use a water-based finish I would apply all
coats to the entire fixture rather than coating one side at a time.
You can either run a wire through one of the holes or use
painters pyramids or make a
board with screws driven up through it to rest the fixture on while it
dries. I made a set of these and they're nice to have around.
You'll just need to make them smaller.

Once the fixtures are finished they are stable and won't warp.

The included fixture set instructions also detail my technique for applying
a furniture lacquer finish.

I have recently discovered a finish I like even better than lacquer for use
on hardwood pieces.
It is the simplest thing imaginable to apply, looks extremely good and is
non-toxic. It is a wipe-on finish made of linseed oil and beeswax
called Tried & True Original Wood Finish. The finish feels
"waxed" all the time.

I purchased mine from
Lee Valley Tools but it is available from other places. It's
pricey but a little goes a long way. One pint of it can easily finish
any fixture set listed here several times over.

You might not like it on the plywood fixtures. On hardwood the finish
soaks very deep into the wood. Because plywood is cross-grain every
other lamination with a glue layer in between the oil doesn't soak in
evenly. It tends to darken edges of the outer lamination end grain.
Some people will like that look and others won't. If you really care
then you should get a scrap piece of plywood, drill a few holes in it,
finish sand it then apply the finish. Wait a few days before you
decide. The edges will continue to change color while the oil cures so
you may even want to wait a couple weeks before you decide if you'll like
that look.

Steel Building Boards

I do not sell building boards. In order for me to ensure you
receive the board in undamaged condition I would need to sandwich it between
sheets of plywood. The cost of that and shipping would be multitudes
higher than purchasing the board locally. If you really want me to ship a
board then I will but you will probably pay several hundred dollars for a $50.00
piece of sheet metal.

Note to Micro Builders

My fixtures are not the right tool for small stick models — the magnetic
force is too strong. If you build rubber power or park-flyer size
models then you can use loose, rectangular, ceramic magnets. They are
square and have the correct strength even to bend and hold fuselage sides.

3/8" x 7/8" x 1-7/8" ceramic magnets are stronger than ceramic
latch magnets having the steel plates removed. They are not nearly as
beefy as a four or six-magnet fixture. These larger ceramic magnets
can stand on end with enough force to stay square while gluing formers
between fuselage sides of small flying models.

I seldom use metal plates on loose magnets when the magnet will be
against the model because the plates can dent the wood and they make the
magnet much stronger than necessary in most cases. My advice is try
building with loose magnets first and try lighter duty fixtures if you need
more concentrated force.