When I last visited there was much work underway to extend the domaine’s working space. “At least the exterior of new work is now finished,” joked Nathalie.

Nathalie on 2013:“We saw about 35% lower yields, and whilst the harvest wasn’t easy, the biggest issue was that there was relatively less juice in the grapes. Mainly it was the 1ers that were hardest hit. Actually it was similar in some sectors in 2014 with lower juice leading to lower yields, but in this case only about 10% lower.

“It’s a vintage that’s a nice surprise, though the wines are quite easy just now. The wines are balanced but have a little less acidity than classic Chablis, so we have a just a little more CO2 to keep the freshness. Certainly we have ripe fruit though.”

The wines…

The 1ers were bottled in November, the Grand Crus also November and December. The Chablis was bottled in the summer. A tasty range with two excellent 1er Cru stand-outs…

2013 Petit Chablis
Quite good depth and a hint of green fruit with fainter herb. Quite acid forward, but there’s a little richness in waiting too. If it starts with a modest sharpness it finishes with fine flavour and interest. Very good!

2013 Chablis
Higher toned with precise notes of citrus fruit. Very fresh to start, like the PC, but with more palate width, actually much more. Tasty and involving with a good underlying minerality.

2013 Chablis Vieilles-VignesThe only wine that has elevage in oak, from parcels of vines with at least 60 years of age.
A more modest and rounded nose. Bigger in the mouth with a little more silk to the texture. Very good intensity here, that lasts excellently in the finish. The oak has added shape rather than flavour – good.

2013 Chablis 1er Beauroy
Width but more impressive depth of aroma. In the mouth again a hint of bubble but this is round and more complex and energetic – lots of interest here, with nice complexity and just a little minerality – lovely wine.

2013 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Higher tones, just a little floral. Round but with a line of mineral flavour that runs through the core – flavour that grows and grows with just a little sweetness to the acidity. Lovely, elegant wine here with real finesse.

2013 Chablis Les Clos About 50% of this sees some oak, the rest is tank elevage.
Ripe, fresh and floral. A little more fat and a lot more minerality – something of a slow-burning wine that slowly, slowly adds weight and complexity in the mouth. Rather contemplative for Les Clos, but it’s very tasty indeed. Just a little oak flavour in the finish – but it’s really only an anecdote. Very good.