On the tongue of my offset plow, I cut a piece of thick wall black pipe about 1/2 inch longer than the thickness of the tongue. Filled in around it with stick welder, building it up a little thicker right around the pipe on both sides, then ground off the excess pipe with 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Left with a perfect hole, and exactly the right size for my pulling pin. Tom

I work for a couple professional welders and the standard procedeure is to weld it up with stick, usually 6011.
You first vee out the metal so that you can get new metal all of the way to the center of the hole on the worn side. You then insert a carbon rod that matches the original diameter of the hole. Then, you weld up the hole, carefully chipping the flux after each pass. You then pull/drive the carbon rod out and grind the top and bottom flat. Finally, you finish the hole by removing any roughness from the inside with a die grinder.

I'd start by pricing a drawbar...
After that, if I thought it was worth the aggravation... I'd probably see if the bar could be bored concentric again, then install a hardened bushing and weld that in place. I don't know about that particular bar... but a lot of them are a pretty high grade of spring steel. They don't weld easily and don't last if not done correctly...

I have had good luck using old brg races, if they do not quite fit I use a die grinder to remove enough from the drawbar until it will fit then weld in place, the races seem to hold enough of their hardness to last very well and makes them look factory again, then I make sure I use only the correct size pin in them

Get a heavy collar with a hole that matches the draw bar pin. Than take a torch and burn a hole in draw bar to fit collar in and making sure that collar is centered in draw bar and spot it in. Burn it in from both sides ( never stop welding until done). After it cools take a grinder and and grind it smooth on both sides.

I never run across any draw bar that seemed to have spring steel in them. I have at least two that I bent down and they sure didn't bend back on their own. I have one in my Farmall C now that is bent down some. I have extended for the power take off from the crimper and bailer. I pain to move in or out. I have replaced two over the years with hot roll bar on Olivers and they didn't bend. The ones I bent I had the drawbar extended and hooked onto a heavy down load which I should not have.

Ford bars are spring steel. They'll bend probably 30 degrees or more under load but they always spring back... You definitely don't weld them with 6011 as someone suggested. Personally... if I was welding on one it would be done with a Sodel 335. Then again... you never wear the hold out on a Ford bar either.

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