I am working on partially restoring my recently purchased 1940’s Craftsman King-Seeley (103.23130) drill press. I picked it up on CL for $10. I runs well and weighs a ton!

I have spent a couple of days removing the rust and now want to paint it but I do not want to take the whole thing apart. I will probably never be able to get it all back together again.

I wanted to see if anyone has applied Rustoleum paint using a paint brush as opposed to the spray can. Covering all the parts to spray the paint on would be near impossible but I want to protect the base, table, cover, etc. from the rust coming back.

Years ago I used a ton of Rustoleum by brushing it from a can. No more. Most of their spray products, save for the 2X line, are superior by rattle can. Their traditional enamel spray line has been around for decades, and puts on a nice, even finish. That being said, I agree with Dave. Take the time to dissemble it and spray it right.

You don’t need to remove the quill or anything, you can always mask things off with blue painters tape. I did one of those exact same DPs and totally disassembled it, new quill bearings, chuck jaws, motor bearings, cord and switch assembly. I spent more than a bench DP at Harbor Freight cost but like it better (wish I could add a crank up table though). If you brush it (there isn’t a lot to paint) just make sure it’s warm so the paint flows out. Look through the publications section of the vintage machinery website and you’ll find a manual for that or one similar. It’ll show the whole assembly and it’s nice to have just so you know what the drill speeds are when you change the belt up or down.

I just finished rehabbing an old tool chest with Rust Oleum rattle cans. I used a grinder right a wire brush art attachment to get the old paint off, then primed and painted. I think it came out beautifully.

There are two schools of thought on the subject.. some old timers insist that brushing old iron is the only way to go. That is how a lot of vintage machines were painted back in the day. Properly applied, brush marks are not a problem and it puts on a much thicker layer of paint than spraying does (better protection). I’ve done both with good results. My last project, completely non woodworking related (I painted a 120 gallon propane tank), was sprayed using Rustoleum gloss white from a can using a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun, and it came out fantastic. Thinned about 10% with acetone as per the directions, I gave it about four coats and it wound up looking like it had just left the factory. Rattle cans work fine, but it’s difficult to get an even consistant surface on large panels. Brushing is a bit more time consuming and difficult to get into some areas, but the results can be just as good if you apply it right.

Cheers,Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

1 1950s set of Handyman encylcopedias I own have a chapter on tool maintenance shows a guy giving his lathe a coat of paint with a brush. Just do what you want – it’s YOUR tool and nothing is incorrect. In the old days NOBODY would ever take a machine apart to paint it, or mask off the rest of the shop to spray it when a brush would get it done faster.

Thanks Brad and dhazelton for the advice. I think it will be best for me to brushing on the rustoleum paint is going to be easier and I will be able to use the DP sooner. I don’t have a DP now so I do need to use the tool.

Well so much for my stated plan. I broke down and decided to take the DP apart. I took my time and put each set of componets in a ziploc bag which I labelled. I got the owner’s manual which has pretty clear pictures as to what goes where also.

I ended up leaving the tensioner know and lock in place since I did not want to mess with springs. Also I left the quill (I think that is what it is) in place and the chuck. I figure I can mask those up.

It sure is a lot easier getting the rest of the rust off!

Any suggestions on how to get the post rust free? I used a wire brush and drill wire wheel and got most of it off. Will a scotch brite pad do the rest? Also what do you lubricate the post with? WD40 or something else?

I picked up a couple of Hammered Metal rustoleum spray cans to paint the DP. I thought the color/finish would go well with the DP and the hammered effect will help cover up any imperfections in metal.

EXACTLY what I used – I got the hammered bronze-y color (gold would have been more appropriate, but hey). If yours has the engine turned aluminum trim on the head don’t try to clean it up cuz all that turning will dissappear. Ask how I know. I used a wire wheel on a drill, then turned to emery cloth and started sanding the tube up and down with the emery wrapped around. I think I coated it with paste wax. If you use an oil it may get gummy.

To get the post rust free, take some 320 wet/dry paper and some cutting oil (drill/tapping oil) , it’s a rust preventive and contains lubes to clear the swarf.just wear gloves and sand the heck out of it.When you are done, just wipe down. You can use motor oil if you really want, I keep my post dry, so nothing sticks to it.

I used spray can Rustoleum Machine Grey on my RAS, it worked great but did take a bit longer to dry than the Ace Hardware brand black enamel. For rust you need to discover Evapo-Rust the stuff is awesome. Here’s my review on it.