Costume History & Fashion Legends

The compendium of fashion stories & mini essays that combine my special interest in the greatest secrets of historical fashion & costume legends. Since I have always liked to write stories and to find out the historical origins and development of the components of the costume, I have created content that shows the interaction between literary aspects and the work of fashion detective.

Katharine Hepburn in the Broadway stage production of The Philadelphia Story, 1940 Image: Google Search Results

​You have certainly seen it - in tablecloths, children's aprons, shirts, spring, summer, autumn and maybe even in winter clothes... It is simple yet eyecatching and so perfect for summer or active clothing. From its beginnings it has made numerous successful, lasting and adorable appearances, from tablecloths and kitchen curtains to day dresses, picnic blankets to punks, pinups and to the runway and couture shoes..... Here it is - the legendary gingham classic!

Is it not worth looking into the history of this pattern?Then let's do it right now!

What's in the name?

Gingham is aplain-woven fabric, originally made completely of cotton fibres but later also of man-made fibres, which derives its colour and pattern effects from carded or combed yarns. The name comes from the Malay word genggang, meaning “striped,” and thence from the French guingan, used by the Bretons to signify cloth made from striped colouring. The Malay term ging-gang and the French guingan refer to stripes, and the name most likely entered the English language through Dutch or French.Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the plain, checked, or striped effects. The warp and the weft, or filling, may be the same, even-sided and balanced.

From Pretty Stripes To Checked Pattern...

It began being imported into Europe and the American colonies during the 17th Century. After the mid-eighteenth century, textile mills in Manchester, England and the southern U.SA began manufacturing the fabric in checked patterns, which helped boost the economies of both countries while the striped variety became a thing of the past. The fabric is the same on both sides, and dressmakers often use it alongside muslin when creating or altering patterns. ​

Significant Similarity & Importance Of Gingham

Manufacturers of the famous gingham (influenced by tartans and plaids), took the raw fabric and decided to forgo the stripes in favor of the UK’s ever popular checked pattern. The fabric and its trademark - checks - became increasingly more prevalent until it was one of the most common and recognizable fabrics in the world, seen on Southern literary types, and London bankers alike.Gingham fits very well in the landscape of the spring and summer style. No matter where it is... It is great for a dress shirt, simple man's shirt with pockets or a tablecloth and the apron... The colored checks can add a bold touch to a look that can take you nearly everywhere. It's so customary and ordinary...and that's why you do not have to forget about its origins.

Historical Sketches Of Gingham

19th Century gingham

Gingham Dresses from the early 20th Century Image: Google Search Results

As previously mentioned, gingham was originally developed in India and Indonesia, and as the textile it was first exported to Europe in the early 17th Century. In 1600, Queen Elizabeth I allows 'East India Company' a monopoly on trade between England and the Far East. The Netherlands, France and Denmark also establish similar East India companies. During the 17th century the East India Company regularly ships small amounts of brightly coloured textiles to England.Since 20th Century it's taken on a uniquely American and Brittish identity thanks to its traditional red-and-white or blue-and-white color scheme, its popularity in the literary and cinematic works (for example, in The Wizard of Oz), and its popularity during World War II. ​The iconic print has also been a favorite among some of the most famous women in history, including Katharine Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, and Jane Fonda, as well as Jackie Kennedy and Gloria Vanderbilt.

Girls in ginghams and plaids (1909). Image - New York Public Library Source: Google Search Results

Ladies Home Journal (June, 1912) Image: Google Search Results

​​Diversity Of Gingham's Symbolism

And once again it is the story of popularity of checkered fabric around the world and in different cultures.

In India, the gamucha is a gingham towel used to dry the body. In Indonesia it symbolises the battle between good and evil. The contrasting colours represent this relationship.In Japan the pattern also has spiritual symbolism. The fabric was used to wrap around statues when a child had died. The African Masaï tribe has used a checkered fabric pattern for thousands of years. Gingham check is part of the national costume. In Cambodia, a gingham type cloth called a krama has many uses from the decorative to the practical.

And how has it been in Europe and the United States?

In Germany the gingham fabric is claimed to have originated in Bayern, while Italians claim that gingham is from Northern Italy. The French call it ‘Vichy’ since they feel it originated in the Vichy region.The USA claims that gingham could not be more American having produced the fabric for a couple of centuries. Gingham was imported to colonial USA long before it was locally produced.In Europe gingham is associated with the rustic symbolism. This is no different in America where the fabric became synonymous with country style.It has made gingham a popular choice for tablecloths, curtains, aprons and practical workwear.

Judy Garland in Wizard of Oz Image: Google Search Results

Trivia Of Gingham...From The 20th Century Icons Until Today ​

Early 20th Century - gingham fabric proves immensely popular with young girls’ dresses and school uniforms. At this time gingham is also fashionable for play suits of young boys.

1920s - Gingham fabrics are fashionable in the years following World War I, allowing people to follow fashion and buy inexpensive ready-to-wear clothes. Technological innovations in the 1920s influenced a fashion for decorating the kitchen in the middle of the decade. ​1930s - holiday and seaside glamour becomes popular in USA and Europe. Gingham shorts, shirts and swimsuits are promoted by Hollywood stars. Costume designer Adrian (1903 - 1959) styled movie The Wizard of Oz (1939) with Judy Garland playing Dorothy Gale in the iconic blue gingham dress. The dress allows the symbolism of the film to scream ‘there’s no place like home’.

1940s - Adrian also had made a gingham fabric dress for Katharine Hepburn in the movie The Philadelphia Story (1940). It started a trend for gingham dresses that continued throughout the 1940s.

1950s - in the post-war period women are encouraged to get back to old-fashioned values and return to domesticity whilst the men go out to work. Feminine home-spun gingham helped to throw away modernity and get back to the values of 19th Century.

Rockabilly Look was also rising in popularity taking its influences both from country n’ western and rock n’ roll styles. It was a rebellion fashion for those who didn't want to rebel too much. Men’s gingham shirts were worn by women, often tying off the shirt tails to pull off a feminine hourglass look with jeans. At that time Marilyn Monroe was wearing tight men’s gingham shirts with turned up men’s Levi jeans.

1960s - the 1960s was the era of youth culture and gingham was a suitable fabric with its association with children and youthfulness. This is matched with a European sense of classic, simple, fresh sartorial style.

1970s - gingham shirts remained popular for men and women throughout the 1970s and wereteamed with denim to create a natural, relaxed style.

1980s - during the 1980s, this pattern periodically appeared and disappeared again, proving that the classics were not forgotten.

1990s - also for the laste decade of the century, gingham floats in and out of fashion.

21st Century - gingham pattern can be linked to its main different symbolic sources - nostalgia & retro and youth. Vintage rockabilly fans can also bee seen wearing gingham shirts.

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Author

My name is Edīte Parute and I am a fashion historian and researcher from Latvia, association member at "The Association of Dress Historians" (UK) and author of the book "Stila un modes enciklopēdija"/"Encyclopedia of Style and Fashion" (2010) as well as author of many publications. Have a look around my website to see information about the things I do, and if you have any questions or suggestions regarding fashion history themes to add to my blog, please feel free to contact me! ​

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