Two of the gowns I'm making for the fundraising fashion show that is now in exactly 2 days ... gasp ... have strapless boned bodices. So, since I've been blogging about interfacing and such, I thought I would show you what I put inside these bodices.

When finished the bodices will have 4 layers, the fashion fabric, cotton flannel for padding, poplin to sew the boning to and a lining to make it look pretty inside and be comfortable to wear.

To preshrink everything, I have washed and tumble dried the flannel and poplin. The fashion fabric and lining are 100% silk, so I have steamed them thoroughly with an industrial iron.

I'm not exactly sure what's going to happen to these dresses. I think they will probably be sold to raise more money, so I want everything I'm making to be easy to alter. This is why I decided to sew boning onto the center of each panel of the bodice instead of placing the boning on the seams. I used Ridgeline which doesn't require any casing, can be sewn right into and is very thin but strong. I've covered the cut ends of each piece with some cut muslin to keep it from poking through.

If a tight fitting bodice has more than 2 layers of fabric sew as a unit, I like to smooth all the layers of fabric over a large cylinder to simulate the curve of the body to prevent puckering. After looking all over my house, I thought a standard paint can with some muslin wrapped around it was the best thing I had that I think most of you will have too.

I put the support fabric with the boning on the bottom. The boning should face down so it will be toward the body. The idea is to have it as smooth looking on the outside as possible. Then the flannel for padding and the silk taffeta last. Not all fashion fabric needs a layer of flannel, but this taffeta is so delicate and thin I felt it really did.

Smooth all three layers over the paint can and pin all around.

If you've done it right it will look bubbly when it is lying flat.

Sew all around each piece just inside the seam line. I like to sew with the stiffest fabric on top. Pull the pins just as they reach the presser foot. Then assemble the bodice.

Grade as many seams as possible to reduce bulk.

Below is a blurry photo of the bodice unlined with the skirt attached.

After fitting and taking all the necessary alterations I put in the zipper, being careful to match up the waist seam in the back.

Then sew together the lining being sure to make the same adjustments as were needed in the main bodice. The lining is sitting there ready to go in, but it's kind of hard to see being black.

Sew the lining to the bodice along the upper edge. Again grade all seams possible to reduce bulk and I under stitched the lining to help it stay inside the bodice better.

Then fold, pin and slip stitch the back and bottom edges by hand.

And here is the inside, all finished with hanging loops.

I still have my knee length sheath dress to finish and a wedding dress ... gotta go!

I have a crepe strapless dress I am making for daughter it also will have chiffon over the crepe. I am adding silk organza to the crepe to add substance. I had planned to add the boning directly to the lining. Now I am confused, worried and re-thinking myself. There will be no bra cups inside she doesn't need it. What should I do?

Reply

Andrea

4/12/2016 05:03:13 am

Pam,
If she doesn't need bra cups, then don't use them. She could wear a strapless bra underneath to feel more secure. The boning is necessary to keep the bodice up thought since the bodice doesn't go up and over the shoulders. Be sure the fabric you use for the lining is strong enough to have boning attached to it.

Good luck, Andrea

Reply

Katherine

7/12/2017 08:34:40 am

Andrea,
I'm sewing a ball gown for a friend's daughter out of heavy weight satin. She chose the bodice from your Simplicity 1215 costume pattern and I've drafted a circle skirt to sew to the bottom. My problem is the bustier style bodice. I underlined the bodice with silk organza and quilting cotton. I sewed separate boning casing onto the cotton layer. I deviated from the pattern by adding bones between the panels as well as the seams. I sewed casing onto the seam allowances and hand stitched them over the bust seams. I'm using spiral steel instead of plastic or rigilene boning. I haven't completed it yet, but I don't love the look. It's not as smooth as I would like. I'm concerned the boning channels will show was ridges and the the boning over the seams doesn't look quite right over the bust. I am contemplating starting over. I have plenty of fabric. I was googling the web to look for alternatives. Based on this post, I'm considering eliminating the organza and going with flannel and cotton and keeping the boning off the seams. I'm hoping you have a moment to reply and can provide some wisdom and direction. Thank you!

Reply

Andrea

7/12/2017 11:07:31 am

When I make a corset or heavily boned bodice, I use a fairly stiff interfacing that doesn't stretch. Silk organza and quilting cotton, in my opinion are not strong enough. You should consider duck, or gaberdine with a layer of something (flannel perhaps) to pad between the bones and outer fabric. Pull on the fabric to make sure it has so stretch. AND spiral bones are very thick.I only use them for seams that really curve. If you don't want to use plastic, use flat spring steel bones. They are super strong and very thin.
But, if I were you, I would do a little more wandering around the internet to see what others have done. There is always something to learn.
best, Andrea

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From Andrea

These are the everyday sewing adventures of a designer and commercial pattern maker.