I couldn't find air shocks that would fit the trailer. If can find a source I would like to know. I thought I might use air shocks to take of the extra weight added by restoration. Didn't know if that would be a good or pad idea.
Don

Adding either option is just raising the body on the axle. It will not take any load off the axle, just increase the ground clearence and the body travel. The weight will still be there pressing down on the weak spindle/spring assembly.

I found air shocks that will fit my Airstream-Preliminary observations

They are Monroe "Max-Air" p/n MA803. There ARE some issues, though:

1. The diamater of course is wider and comes very close to the support member. - less than 1/4 inch.
2. They cannot be mounted with the air nipple facing "in" unless a hole were drilled in the support member. This means the nipple and hose will be VERY close to the tire. May have to make a right angle adaptor.
3. The stud holes on these shocks are offset approx. 15 degrees. This means that the air bellows is slightly twisted. Don't know what this will do for longevity.
4. Filling these with 80 lbs of air increased knuckle dimension only 1" I expected more, but it appears that the suspension is under tension in both jounce AND rebound - I had kind of expected this to stuff the wheel down a few inches at least with suspension dangling.

There are ways around these problems - I considered cutting off the mounting eyes and re-welding them to orient the nipple toward the back and solve bellows twist problem. But for the 80 bucks I have in this I think it is worth fiddling around with for a few hours. I know the right way to do this is a new Axle - no doubt about that. But I am leaving on a short-term missions trip to Katrina area in one month and need to improve the bottoming out I have experienced with my trailer right away. Even if I can take 100-150 lbs off each side of the torsion axle with these air shocks I will be making a huge short-term improvement. I thought of shearing those mounting studs as well (actually, just the top stud - I think the bottom shock mount is part of a forged or cast member that looked REALLY stout) so I will be careful about the amount of air I put in these shocks. This weekend I will have the other side finished and can get it back on the ground and see what improvement I can share. Thanks for the replies! Sincerely, Andy

Maybe if I could get a new axle in time to replace it before I have to leave. ... Looks like an easy job to R&R as long as drop-in axle's are available. Could someone let me know where I can get a new axle and about how much $ ?? Thanks. Sincerely, Andy. PS thanks to all for quick replies. Sincerely, Andy

.... need to improve the bottoming out I have experienced with my trailer right away. Even if I can take 100-150 lbs off each side of the torsion axle with these air shocks I will be making a huge short-term improvement. Sincerely, Andy

You may improve the bottoming out. I do not have an opinion on that, others do and the comments are listed below.

However you will never take any stress or weight off the axle. The shocks mount to the body of the trailer and the axle by the wheels. The stress or weight will be pressing down on the axles and torsion springs based on the axle mounting location. You accomplish only raising the body of the trailer, however the stress or weight is still on the torsion axle. Nothing is removed from the torsion springs.

Maybe if I could get a new axle in time to replace it before I have to leave. ... Looks like an easy job to R&R as long as drop-in axle's are available. Could someone let me know where I can get a new axle and about how much $ ?? Thanks. Sincerely, Andy. PS thanks to all for quick replies. Sincerely, Andy

As far as I know, 1962 was a changeover year from leaf sprung axles to torsion axles.
Many of the axles of that year were very prototypish ( is that a word?).
Some were welded on the frame, others wre bolted, and teh bracketry was often inconsistent from one trailer to another.
this means that someone should take a really close look at your undercarriage, and measure things carefully. You might not be able to simply order and replace the axle, like on a newer model.
It might be a good idea to take some pictures of the axle and the mounting brackets, see if any of it is identifiable.