Here is one of America's most enjoyable hamburger-eating experiences. The burger is a half a pound of beef, charred and well-seasoned, lean yet drippingly juicy, sandwiched between thick halves of a big warm bun that oozes a surfeit of condiments, onions, tomato slices, and shreds of lettuce.

The ambience of Kincaid's gives these hamburgers extra pizzazz. You see, Kincaid’s is not quite a normal restaurant. It started as a grocery store and is still configured that way. The old grocery shelves have been cut down to approximately chest high and surfaced so customers can find a convenient place to stand and scarf down lunch. Many years ago when we first discovered the place, we saw one old couple arrive with their own folding chairs, wait in line at the counter, get their burgers, find an unoccupied length of shelf space, tuck napkins into their collars, and dig in with gusto. They told us they eat lunch at Kincaid's at least three days every week. Since then, tables and chairs were added to the front of the place so people can dine more normally, but somehow this place makes us want to be in the aisles where the action is.

The makeshift tables are strewn with magazines for reading while you chew. And dangling from above is what must be called interior decoration: a menagerie of plastic yellow happy faces, inflatable anthropomorphic hot dogs, and similar amusing gew gaws.

Scorecard

"A cheeseburger fully dressed. This is on the short list of Texas' best burgers!"
Cliff Strutz

"While there are regular tables and chairs, it is more fun to stand and eat your burger at one of the short wooden counters."
Cliff Strutz

"No one goes to Kincaid's for groceries any more. Big, juicy burgers are the lure."
Michael Stern

"Way back when, before Kincaid's had any real tables and chairs, this pair of hamburger gourmets brought their own chairs so they could sit at the makeshift counters and enjoy their hamburgers ... with the works."
Michael Stern