San Juan and a Guava Pound Cake

by Raphael Kadushin

on 09/11/12 at 05:00 PM

Maybe it's the lawless law of expectations, but sometimes the best trips are the ones you go into blind and dumb. I knew pretty much nothing about Puerto Rico, except of course that it had a lot to offer. My only personal sense of the island though rested precariously on a vague memory of West Side Story (mostly Chita Rivera in a flouncy skirt, shaking her hair; there was clearly something she was missing about Old San Juan). And when I landed there a few weeks ago things were sketchy. The tail of storm Isaac was wrapping around the island so the trees were tossing their leaves, an echo of Chita, and everything seemed upended; the sun was hiding, the beaches were abandoned, the candy colors of San Juan looked all washed out.

Then suddenly the sky cleared and I felt the shot of euphoria that means you were smart to leave home. The uptick came in San Juan itself. Maybe I expected some extended souvenir stand, or another scrappy port of call. But when the sun finally hit the pastel houses and they glowed, and the cafes spilled out into the streets again, I saw something you rarely see in the Caribbean: an authentic place that felt soulful, in both old and new ways. What is helping it stay fresh is the reclamation of some colonial properties repurposed as dining rooms (think arched windows and beamed ceilings) and a brigade of chefs who are doing justice to Puerto Rican cuisine, at places like Sangria Global Cuisine and Santaella

My other good fortune was meeting Harry Pagancoss (pictured at a San Juan market), a Puerto Rican chef, now based in Atlanta, who is one precocious renaissance man. He is a contributor to MTV's Tr3s, the host and producer of World Food Explorer, and the author of Pure Pleasure: Spellbinding Recipes.

Something of a culinary ambassador, Harry features a number of vibrant Puerto Rican dishes in his book and offered me a recipe for guava pound cake. I didn't attempt it, because I'm a lot better at eating than baking, but a friend did and it fully evoked my stupid-turned-smart San Juan weekend. The recipe for Harry's Guava Pound Cake is after the jump.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Mix the butter, shortening and cream cheese until well blended. Add the sugar and combine until creamy. Add the pinch of salt and vanilla. Mix in the softened guava paste. One by one and mixing after each, add the eggs. Alternating, add the flour and milk; make sure you start with flour and end with flour. Mix well until creamy. Add the orange zest (or liqueur) and fold in. Using a well-greased Bundt pan pour in the batter. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until a knife comes out clean. Let cool. Remove from the pan and slice. Enjoy with a glass of milk or even some champagne.

Wow! Who knew Guava Pound Cake is excellent with a little champagne! This is a great way to start a night out with friends.

darinr2
09:12:21 PM on
09/17/12

I love San Juan, I love guava, and I love pound cake. This has got to be good. Thanks Harry! I'm going to make your recipe :)

nativewoods
07:29:08 PM on
09/13/12

Time to start winter '12/'13 planning! Sounds like the perfect destination.

foodready
09:41:46 AM on
09/13/12

I do love guava and will try the recipe. Sounds delicious.

cremdela
02:44:18 PM on
09/12/12

My youngest (16 next week) is still raving about a baby octopus salad he had at a beach shack, he was 7 and still (constantly) talks about going back to eat it again!
Loved the food overall, tried to eat like the locals (pork on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere, fresh fish at the beach), the only bad meal was at a "touristy" overpriced place.

nancymcgarry
01:58:41 PM on
09/12/12

Every time I visit Puerto Rico I just want to go to Old San Juan. I love visiting all the shops, taking a break to have a piña colada, eating at any of the fabulous restaurants and finishing the day with a nice cold beer. Sometimes I stay at the Caribe Hilton and when I enter the lobby I usually say, I'm home. Harry's recipe for Guava Pound Cake looks delicious. I will try to find the guava paste so I can make it.

LizyOrtiz
01:32:28 PM on
09/12/12

I love Puerto Rico and the puertorrican Food!!

robertmalamis
05:16:48 PM on
09/11/12

Old San Juan is one of my favorite spots in the Caribbean. Delicious food and great beaches. The people are lovely!