Initially leafy and scented with sweet capsicum-like undertones, the medium-bodied fruitiness of this young claret from the 2003 vintage displays juicy blackcurranty notes with a balancing acidity.

Under a Tenner: 2002 Bertie's Grenashe, Saint-Chinian £7.99, Oddbins

From Englishman Bertie Eden in the southern French appellation of Saint-Chinian, the high content of grenache (mis-spelt to avoid conflict with the authorities) makes for a super-ripe style that cries out for grilled meats.