MARSABIT to MOYALE

HELLO + WELCOMEas we drive from Sydney to London across Africa. If you are new to our site, you are most welcome.

It is Gareth here today and I wanted to to share with you our time in Northern Kenya on a notorious stretch of road from Marsabit to Moyale – a two day journey through on of the most remote parts of the World.

ARCHERS POST TO MARSABIT

We have had the pleasure of being able to read other blogs of similar expeditions. One that stands out in my mind is our good friends The Morgans. MorganSafari is the blog of Richard and Sophie who were driving home from Australia to London, via East Africa. I scoured over their photos again and again before we headed up to Northern Kenya. It was pouring down with rain and they got bogged a few times in the soft mud that swallowed their rig. I was not worried about the rain because we were travelling at a different time of year, but a couple of things were on my mind. I was thinking about the bone crushing corrugated roads, banditry and the remote location if things went wrong.

:: Image via Google Maps

We left Shaba National Reserve and turned onto tarmac. The Chinese have been busy building new roads throughout the African continent and they have certainly been busy here. Where the road was un-finished they had diversions that went beside the road. These sections were covered with a fine bull dust that would envelope the car and everything around it. The scenery was stark and arid, but we thought it was stunningly beautiful. Camel trains crossed the road in front of us. The tribespeople scattered through the desert looking after their huge herds of cows. Cattle is livelihood out here and when the tribes clash over grazing land or thieving from each other – the AK47′s slung over their shoulders are used.

Every so often, in the middle of nowhere, we would see a solitary person by the road. I don’t know how they survive out here. It is so barren.

:: Initial tar. Smooth as.

:: Along the way we saw the work sites of Chinese road builders

:: The Chinese laid tarmac was a welcomed site

The road from Archers Post started with 120k’s of beautiful tarmac right up until the Mirelle River. It took us just over an hour and twenty minutes. The remainder of the road was bull dust, sand and sharp rocks which took us five hours and twenty minutes to reach Camp Henry in Marsabit. With the last stretch into Marsabit being the worst stretch – full of rocks and bull dust and corrugations all at once.

The Troopy handled it superbly. Again he impressed us, as tough as guts and just keeps going. I bet the Japanese had wished they didn’t build these cars so well. A 1989 monster who just eats up these bad roads.

:: The tarmac ends and the dirt begins

:: Bull dust enveloped the rig on the way. Very hectic when going head on with a truck.

:: A diversion that was inches deep with the fine bull dust

:: At least they tried

:: Cows being herded to the nearest water supply

:: A truck that didn’t make it

:: A Samburu hut by the roadside in northern Kenya

:: Camels everywhere and the climate around us made us realise how well these animals are adapted to such harsh environments

:: School kids huddle in the shade

:: Cra-aaaazzyy Kenyan bus drivers who hoon past us without the slightest hint of slowing down. We pulled off the road every time hoping to protect our windscreen… and lives!

:: You need to watch those lips when crossing the bridges over dry river beds on this stretch of road heading into Marsabit

When we arrived at Marsabit we navigated our way to Camp Henry. This simple camp is a blessing in the middle of nowhere. As we pulled into town we passed tribes wearing bright robes and ornate head pieces. We waved to each other and they welcomed us with smiles.

The camp was great to break up the journey. Henry has set up a real institution. It was cool to read all the other overlanders notes in the guest book who had been there before us. The honesty fridge was full of cheap beer and we downed a few as I checked over the Troopy and looked at tightening anything that had come loose. The only thing that seemed the least bit loose was the connection to the battery. Kirst cooked up dinner with plenty of left overs for the next days drive.

:: Checking over the rig making sure everything is still there and still tight

:: Parked up for the night at Camp Henry. Outside the fences Askari, kenyan security guards, walked the permitters.

MARSABIT TO MOYALE

After a good nights sleep at Henry’s Camp we were ready to tackle the road to Moyale. We left Marsabit at 6:45. Topped up the Troopy with diesel and headed out of town on some more beautiful tar. 90k’s later the road turned to dirt again with frequent road work diversions.

There have been reports in the last few years of inter tribal fighting and even some highway robberies. In fact five people (local farmers) were killed in fighting a few weeks before we drove this stretch of road. We were also told by Kalif a friendly copper who flagged us for a ride back to his post that there was another highway robbery two weeks prior. This made us stand to attention although he did say, like all the other people we had talked to, in the weeks before that “It is very safe. No problem”.

:: Image via Google Maps

:: Yeah, yeah we should have turned the pointy end down….Shiiiit! Its facing Kirst’s temple I think. {Kirsty’s note: I had it pointing past my temple! Promise.}

::Time to get back to work Kalif. He told us that all new recruits were posted to areas of hardship in their first two years of service.

:: Road condition – slow and rocky

:: Road condition – dusty

:: These corros shook us and the rig for 20k’s

:: Time for a rest from those crushing corros

:: A quick non-stop lunch break

The road was not as bad as we expected and I think at this time we were confident that we would make it to Moyale without an issue. We passed through more towns with Samburu men and women in colourful robes. It was the kind of Africa we have always hoped to see. We saw guys with platted hair and leaning sticks (useful for herding) standing around in amongst the rubbish talking and sheltering from the sun. Old ladies with thick ankle bracelets walking in the hot sun. It was really primitive and actually fantastic to see these people living like this. We guessed that their colourful clothing and jewellery kept them sane and happy in such a bleak and hot environment.

:: Some of the local Samburu dudes havin’ a chin wag in the shade

:: A local shop

:: The colours of the local tribes people are amazing and they just POP in such a brown dusty landscape. It was so beautiful to see.

:: It’s not your everyday street meeting in this part of the world

:: The stories this woman would tell. Oh I wish I could speak her language. She was about five foot tall but had a swagger and stare that could down a buffalo.

:: Somali Ostrich roadside

:: This is their life

:: Just walking to… ?

Six hours and 15 minutes later we eventually we made it across the 250k’s to the border control at Moyale. The bloke with the stamps was at lunch so we inflated the tyres and passed the time people watching and chatting with kids. By the time he was back we were glad to be heading into Ethiopia and tired from a drive that had taken us through some of the most fascinating and starkly beautiful landscapes we have seen so far on this awesome road trip of ours. Bring on Ethiopia!

Cheers,

1 Comment

Sue Peters Says

Morning,
We discovered your story through a 4×4 site. Completely enjoying reading your journal. Good luck with it. I’d buy the book when you write it
Regards
Ian and Sue Peters

SUPPORTERS

AS SEEN IN

RECENT POSTS

THE PLAN

MINI RIGS

YOUR WORDS

"Well, you got to us. After inspiring us to get out, buy the car and travel around Queensland last year, now we are looking into Cape Town to London. Have started pre-planning (by which I mean sitting here scratching our heads and wondering where the hell we start. Thanks for the blogs, and the inspiration" TAF + SUSAN, AUSTRALIA

"Inspired much? Well, let me just tell you that I’m sitting at my office desk having just caught up with the wrap ups….And I’m ready to chuck it all in, jump in the 4WD and go" NICOLE, AUSTRALIA

"One of the best things that has happen to my family and myself was meeting you both. We love hearing and seeing where you go and how you are just keep doing what you are doing guys" MIKE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

"This is totally and absolutely awesome! I am really excited and I’m not the one even doing it. Keep the updates coming guys" HELEN, DUSTY SOLES AUSTRALIA

"Your pre-trip blog is one of the best, so can't wait to read about your adventures" MARTIN, AFRICA OVERLAND NETWORK, AUSTRALIA

"Don't know you guys from a bar of soap, but just needed to say you BOTH impress the hell out of me! Very inspiring what you're doing! Love the photos, love all the little (& big) alterations, additions, customizations etc ... Keep them coming. Go well, the both of you!" ANDREW, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

"I’m so glad we met you two in Nepal and get to hear all about this journey.Will be following your blog and really look forward to soaking up the inspiration from your adventure. The vehicle looks like it will make a comfy cozy home. Good luck" DEANNA, CANADA

"Sounds like an awesome trek, stay safe and have a great time. Your blog is an inspiration for us all to get on and plan the next big adventure" DARREN, AWESOMEDUDE.COM

"When you get to Cape Town I want a coffee off that stove please…." + "South Africa is waiting for you and it’s in no rush….ever" CRAIG, SOUTH AFRICA

"Looking forward to following your travels. We’ve been up Africa as far as Tanzania but plan to do the whole route….one day. Keen to check out your Australian trip side too. Bon voyage" MAXINE, SOUTH AFRICA

"Love, love your kitchen! So supercool" + "Nicely written. Love the idea of pinning the master TO DO list to the wall. We have like ten different lists on the computer, which makes me frantically going from one to the other making sure we do not forget anything" ERICA, ON THE ROAD

"I feel like I discovered your blog just in time! I’ll definitely be following along on this adventure of yours. The Aussie section of the trip is something my husband and I are desperate to do. I’m really looking forward to seeing your photos and hearing your stories!" FIONA, LIFE IN BRIEF, AUSTRALIA

"Looking good guys. Things are falling into place" ADAM, AUSTRALIA

"Good luck! Really love your go-gettin’ attitude! Be good to see you on the road..." DIANA, UK

"I am following your preparations with big interest. We are from South Africa an plan to do the trip north after retirement in a few years time. When you get close to Cape Town make contact with us" PIETER + MARGRIET

"Looks incredible! Enjoy your adventures!! xxx" HAYLEY, AUSTRALIA

"Going to enjoy following your trip. One day we plan to do likewise from Ireland. Safe travels" KIWI 4X4, NEW ZEALAND

"Have just come across your page and can't wait to hear more about your adventures! Happy Travels" TRIPTIDE AUSTRALIA

"Having lived in Kenya for 16 years I long to head back and do a massive African road trip. You guys are living the dream - good for you! Look forward to following you on your travels!!" SIMON, TRAVELLER-AT-LARGE

"I wish I could do a similar trip. You guys are living the dream. No matter how exhausted you may get just keep on going. Never give cause for regrets. All the best" JOHNATHAN, AUSTRALIA

"The world is yours. Go get it!" KEN, AUSTRALIA

"Drive Safely. Explore Wildly" SAUERMAN, SYDNEY

"What you’re doing is really living. You’re about to have the time of your life." KATE, BRISBANE

"Reading your blog reminds me just how lucky we are to live in this great country, everyone should get out their and see it.
We look forward to reading more about your travels. Hope you have a great trip." MATTHEW, DIONNE, ETHAN + JADE