I had a similar issue with a Chorus 11 and was worse as it slipped between the inner ring and the chain stay. Try as I might I could not remove it without what I considered a large amount of force and hence damage. Basically had to break the chain. It was my fault as I did not adjust the FD correctly. As I did not want a similar issue and because of the clearances involved I put on a chain catcher. $5 and a few grams best investment yet and maybe even Pro

So a $150 derrailleur shouldn;t be expected to handle a shift uphill or a slipped chain?? Really? That's considered user error? Since when? Nobody has ever had to shift while going uphill? I know enough to ease-off on the pressure and expect the gears to do what gears do not snap like a piece of plastic.

If a $15 Dr from the cheapest bike can handle it I think a top of line model should be able to as well, it was certainly not an impossible shift, merely a less-than-ideal shift. And sometimes chains slide off rings, I am not an idiot for being unlucky enough to have this happen am I? Nor do I think its too much to ask for a dr to handle that. Front drs are not the most complicated things to build.

What I took offense to was the condescension with which my post was met, I have been riding for well over 20 years and do not think my post deserved the level of insult it received. I love how my reply got flaggged but not those who insulted my OP

Seems like some here are cruising for posts to put others down rather than add any constructive advice, not all, but some, and it gets really annoying. Its like a middle school class full of spoiled brats who do nothing but call each other names.

And yes, these Dr's de-laminate like crazy and I really dont care about that its mostly aesthetics, though one could complain that such high end parts should at least be able to maintain their integrity - I chalk that up to flexibility on the cage that delaminated the outer layer of carbon. As long as it works I dont care.

drill through outer plate, build a alloy or carbon tube spacer, run a longer bolt through outer cage, tube spacer and into the inner plate, problem solved. Fixable if it happens again, light and easy...

So what will happen when you use a steel cage but still misaligned front derailure and wedge the chain in the manner described? I suggest substantial damage could result that will still require replacement of costly parts. I mean something has got to give right?

I spent years riding 10 speed Record and will admit to shift up a few times as like you rightly point out, stuff happens. I never had any issue however. I am forced to suggest as others that your adjustment is off or perhaps a bent tooth on the chainring. That said I did once get a request from a fellow WW for my old derailure as he had broken the cage on his front derailure. So I guess it does happen. That makes two cases I have heard about ever. My fellow WW never told me how he broke the piece but never reported further issues. Go to the wanted section here if you need spare parts on the cheap. I may still have an old one so PM me if you need one and I'll send it to you if I have it.

I will offer a bit of unsolicited advise. No need to get defensive when folks try to help. Your first post was seeking to blame someone (Campy) without even allowing the possibility that you or your mechanic could have some culpability with the problem. That attitude based on understandable frustration set you up for the replies that followed. No big deal. IMO all the advise you received was sound from a technical point. Fact is shifting any group, even the new electric groups while going uphill under load places a good deal of strain on the system. Bent teeth and broken chains and damaged derailure can still occasionally happen. Design flaw? well yes but one shared by every derailure system except those wonderful internal gear things we see on touring bikes. No sysem is perfect, sometimes we have to adapt to its limitations

I've never had a problem with any front derailler, though I went Chorus as it seemed more durable than s/record. I very rarely use it anyway, spending 90% of my time in the 50. As a tubsie I love hills so never grind down to the 34, unless it's going to be required I do it in advance of the chain strain or battle it out. When I haven't I've just been lucky I guess.

You could, but because it's a narrower cage, setup will be a little more finicky and you will likely end up trimming more when riding.

Perfect. Thanks! That was exactly what I needed to know and couldn't find. I figured it would work just fine, but the issue was whether or not the new design narrowed since the chain is a bit narrower. They could have left the FD width alone, or narrowed it to match (more likely, and this is indeed the case). The two options would seem to be to track down a 10SP FD or upgrade shifters, FD, RD and cassette to 11SP (lol, if only I could justify this).

You could, but because it's a narrower cage, setup will be a little more finicky and you will likely end up trimming more when riding.

Perfect. Thanks! That was exactly what I needed to know and couldn't find. I figured it would work just fine, but the issue was whether or not the new design narrowed since the chain is a bit narrower. They could have left the FD width alone, or narrowed it to match (more likely, and this is indeed the case). The two options would seem to be to track down a 10SP FD or upgrade shifters, FD, RD and cassette to 11SP (lol, if only I could justify this).

I had this exact problem with my time trial bike last season. I have to admit that it was my fault as I had not adjusted the limit screw correctly (I was pretty sure I had). Solution: got a 10 speed chorus front mech & made sure it was correctly adjusted this time! I've gained about 5g in weight on the bike but it shifts better than the record one.

There's a good chance I may still have mint and boxed a 10S Record FD in the basement. If I do it must one that handles both regular and compact chainrings , you know the ones with the Mbrace system. A braze-on one.

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