Powdercoating is basically a thermoplastic or thermoset polymer, so it has some plasticity to it and flexes. The springs should be fine with it on there. If I run into any cracking issues, I'll let you guys know.

Tonight, I blasted the SSBC caliper mounting brackets, which go with the partial SSBC kit (for FSJ Waggy) I recently sold on the forum. They got all banged/chipped up when the previous owner shipped the kit to me with NO real packaging material at all ... and the rotors chipped the snot out of them.

I blasted them in the cabinet using the Black Diamond material from TSC (Tractor Supply Store) ... it worked GREAT at removing the old red powdercoating. I recoated them with Eastwood's BRIGHT RED.

So today, our AMC club started setting up for the big AMO national show, which we're hosting over the weekend ( see www.greatlakesamc.org for information ).

Once I got home this afternoon, I decided to take our big-wheel wagon, which we got years ago for out daughter, and powdercoat it. It has now been transformed from red & black, with wood sides, to Red, White & Blue (in honor of AMC) ... and the blue has an awesome flip-flop to it, going from red to blue to purple, with the stardust prism effect to it. The blue stardust ended up being semi-translucent, showing just a little bit of the original wagon red through it, causing the flip-flop effect.

I'm going to pull it around the swap meet and AMC show, to haul parts I'll pick up, as well as my cooler for water/gatorade. Since its so late, I don't have any pics to post up ... I'll shoot some tomorrow and post them up when I get home!

Here are a couple shots of the wagon, from this morning. I have since put some red & blue "American Motors" decals on the white side rails. Lots of compliments on it and I even had an offer to sell it ... maybe I'll have to make up a few more of these!

hey i used to work for an aluminum wheel manufacturer. when the wheels were being painted they were hung from a hook -2 at a time- that contacted two spots on the inside (brake side for those who dont follow) and a hook near the bead seat. think rebar section @4ft long w/u bend at top to hang said hanger. 1" angle iron @ 6in long to rest wheel on and hook (guessing 1 1/2" flat stock bent to u shape )attached @2 in above
wheel slips into hook and gravity does the rest. repeat for bottom hook. pm for more details

Many coil springs are powdercoated from the factory. No issues with cracking. We powdercoat lots of snowmobile springs in the fall and never had a issue.

OP: Look into getting some high temp plugs for the threaded holes and you won't have to waste time thread chasing them with a tap after everything is done. There is also high temp tape to keep the powder off areas you don't want it.

hey i used to work for an aluminum wheel manufacturer. when the wheels were being painted they were hung from a hook -2 at a time- that contacted two spots on the inside (brake side for those who dont follow) and a hook near the bead seat.

Dale, thanks for the input, I think I follow you and see it somewhat in the pics you sent me in the follow up post. Once I get a welder, I'll most likely fab some up to see how they work.

I have also heard of guys setting the rims on really LARGE metal funnels, turned upside down, so that center hole of the wheel, rests on the cone of the funnel. This would lay them flat in the oven.

OP: Look into getting some high temp plugs ... high temp tape to keep the powder off areas you don't want it.

Thanks for chiming in on the springs question ... good feedback. I have the high-temp tape, just haven't nabbed some silicone plugs yet. When I need to, a quick twist of aluminum foil and stuffing it in a threaded hole, has worked pretty well.

this site is acting funny i only got one of 3 that my email indicated however,
the point of making a hook is to coat both sides at the same time saving a lot of time. ive got a HF welder to play with for mock up purposes if need be
this could be fun pm if interested

sorry for double post but had to input on holes. as far as i recall nutseats should be free from coating and this was accomplished by a tapered nylon brush gently pushed into holes after coating and a chip brush was brushed across the hub surface eliminating any possible high spots from coating
this help make sure that there isnt any unexplained out of balance conditions
(sit flat against hub on vehicle) also prevents fitment problems due to most auto wheels being "hub centric" (centered by hub instead of lug nuts)

Hey guys,
I just powdercoated the NOS chrome valve cover I had in the FOR SALE forum, which had a little bit of rust pitting on the surface. I glass bead blasted it, then coated it in Semi-Gloss Black for KensAMC over on the www.ifsja.org forum.

I had to change the way I am spraying powder on sheet metal parts, where it's hard to get the powder down into nooks and crannies. My spray method mod worked GREAT on this valve cover. It turned out REALLY SMOOTH!

I fired up the oven for the first time, since December and powdercoated a couple plasma-cut JEEP items I picked up at Detroit Autorama. Here are pics. Small JEEP is in Smoke Chrome. JEEP w/grill is in Silver Vein.

Hey guys,
Thursday night, I powdercoated a set of stock AMC V8 valve covers in Black Wrinkle. I first sand blasted, then pre-baked them (to remove any oil residue), then powdercoated them. The went from grimy old paint, to looking like new, these turned out even better than I hoped.