Have you noticed how there are some marking tasks that are just better-performed with a blade, such as cross-grain scribing? We don't like all those little splinters burrowing into our skin and adding to our sanding workload, and we're sure they're a pain for you, too, so you're going to love the Tri-Blade accessory for M.POWER's Tri-Scribes. It turns a marking and scribing gauge into a cutting gauge, giving you a clean, accurate mark and severing cross-grain as you mark to help limit tear-out. Another shining example of M.POWER's knack for innovative elegance in tools, the Tri-Blade kit consists of a blade post, a common craft knife cutting blade strip and an Allen key for changing the post blade when it dulls. Simple, inexpensive, and effective, just the way you like it.

High Tolerance Cutting Gauge

With the Tri-Blade, you can strike high-tolerance parallel or curved lines. Inherently stable and accurate due to its use with the Tri-Scribe to you can mark or cut materials to much finer tolerances than are possible with a pencil or marking knife, or a handheld craft-knife or scissors, and without the tedium that strains your eyes, hands, etc., because the Tri-Scribes are held by your M3, other try-square, metal rule, etc.

Cut Out Circles in Veneer, Card and Paper

Have you ever cut out a perfect circle with scissors? None of us at M.POWER have, and we've become plenty frustrated trying, but that was a long time ago. Now, we use the Tri-Blade to cut circles in veneer, card and paper without the headache. You don't need scissors or cutting templates when you can simultaneously mark and cut with the Tri-Blade. Simply secure the material to be cut, set the radius depth and cut out an arc or circle. For thicker materials, just repeat the cutting action until the cut is complete. Also note that because of the huge advantage in mounting the Tri-Scribes on a standard steel or aluminum rule, you can cut very large arcs and circles, using for example a 1-meter steel rule or a steel "yardstick" as the trammel bar element.

Cutting Parallel Lines

How often do you mark or cut parallel lines on a project? We'll bet it's considerably more often than you think. Sure, the edges of a mortise are parallel to each other, but are they not also usually parallel to the sides? And what about the edge of a rabbet, dado, groove, or rip-cut? A trim-cut on the end of a board or post? The marking and cutting of accurate parallel (and perpendicular) lines is the foundation of fine furniture making, cabinetry, joinery, and carpentry, and it can be the most tedious part if you don't have the right tool for the job. (Otherwise, it's probably sanding, right? After buying your Tri Scribes and Tri Blades, check out our vacuum hold-down systems!) With the Tri Blade mounted on a standard try-square or combination square, you can use it as a highly effective cutting gauge, with many advantages over traditional cutting gauges:

The Tri Scribe mounting unit is flat-lying and is therefore more stable and less likely to wobble or deviate

The Tri Scribe's chamfered base plate moves load forward onto the blade tip so the unit is naturally set to cut

The Tri Scribe neck angle alignment and the blade post's cranked angle ensure optimum cutting position for the blade tip

Mounted on a combination square or try-square provides greater surface area contact between the stock face and face-edge than on a traditional cutting gauge meaning greater stability and accuracy when cutting

Cutting plasterboard (drywall)

Looking for a better way to cut plasterboard? We've got it! When the Tri-Blade cutting gauge accessory is used mounted on a try-square or combination square it is very handy at accurately cutting down plasterboard (drywall). Simply set the depth range of the trim, cut along one side, turn over cut the same depth range on the other, and presto! The plasterboard will now snap off along the cutting line with a precise clean edge. It's so easy you can do it one-handed.

The bottom line: It's accurate, easy to use, affordable, and you need it, so get it!