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air arc settings

12-06-2013, 10:17 PM

I'm using a TB325efi to air arc with a 1/4 rod (air liquide) was wondering what the proper setting would be just doesn't seem to be working as well as it should Ive tryed a few settings and it works but just feel like it could be better any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Do you have the process selector set to SMAW or stick? Are your cables hooked up one to the ground(work) and the other to the Constant Current lead terminal? If you are you should be dc, now just the question of polarity, you want reverse or DCRP. Probably wouldn't hurt to set the ignition switch to full run , instead of run/idle. Other than having your air line hooked up and a good supply of air( 80 PSI minimum) you should be ready to rock and roll. Running full amperage at 325 burning 1/4 inch carbons is going to be hard on the machine in the long run, pay attention to your duty cycle. Having said that make sure you have cables to match the output and duty cycle if you are going hard at it. Minimum 2/0 cable and a good Copper Ground clamp. I like the Lenco 300 amp one. Might not hurt to turn the machine down and go with 3/16 carbons if your doing light duty or surgical finesse type gouging. I suppose it all depends on exactly what your doing. Hope this helps!

Comment

I have a tb275, and prior 302. Hook leads to cc, turn selector to 6010 pipe. Turn amps to 250, gouge away, use 3/16, 1/4 to big for tb302. Also do not turn machine up to max, thats what will damage machine. Not sure why people are so worried about air arcing with machine, same to me as running big wire. Machine is designed for it. Probably gouged 500 hrs on machine, just so much faster and easier. Also be sure to have a good supply of air, 22cfm min, unless u have have the smaller air arc torch, (just bought one k2000, works very well with small compressors).
Kevin

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Yes you might be able to get a 1/4" to run but they recommend 3/16" for the 302 machine, I'm not sure about the 325.

Have you ran a air carbon arc before to know what is good and what is not,

A possible problem that no one mentioned is how much of the rod is sticking out of the torch, I grip a new rod at the 1/2 way point and pull it out as it gets used up, I never like to have more than about 4" sticking out.

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As I was reading through Portable's latest post I realized the issue of electrode length. I had forgotten all about that. Many years ago we hired a "welder". He welded something wrong so I told him to just arc it out with the cac. After awhile he came over & told it was broke & not working right. He showed me with a new cac rod. He put it in the holder with the whole rod sticking out like a new stick rod. He never used one before & just assumed how it worked.

Yes, make sure the stick out length is only about 4" or less. Also make sure the air holes are on the correct side of the rod & pointed the right way.

Comment

Thanks for all the suggestions I wasn't running the amps high enough ... Ya the 325 I'm using has a gouge setting. Also I was gouging through a toggle seat that was about 3-4 inches thick on a jaw crusher in a very awkward position so the deeper I got didn't seem to be blowing the slag away very well .. Also I'd get a few spots that had high carbon deposits from the rod so it would arc until I'd grind it down. Or that's what I figured not exactly sure y that happens