Moschino AW16

We all know by now that Moschino's Jeremy Scott loves a theme – once the show invitation arrives, expect to see said theme splashed on the set, in the clothes, on iPhone cases and, of course, Instagram. For Autumn/Winter 2016, the designer was inspired by the Bonfire of the Vanities, which took place in 1497 and saw the Dominicans storm Renaissance Florence and destroy all objects of beauty because they believed they lead to evil. What could be more beautiful than fashion, asks Scott?

And so, with a set staged to look like a decayed palazzo – all broken glass chandeliers, overturned furniture and faded rugs – Scott paraded crinoline-skirted gowns adorned with oversize bows. The hitch? They came with charred edges and inbuilt smoke machines. One number even featured a chandelier as the skirt, proof that theatrics are a big part of the brand's DNA, and that the fashion crowd is game (especially if you throw in a cigarette pack-shaped iPhone cover with the words "Fashion Kills").

A pre-line-up of leather pieces (strapless dresses with the tied sleeves of a leather jacket to form the bustier, hot pants and studded pencil skirts) acted as a tough girl overture to the eveningwear.

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"Couture is an attitude, not a price point," screamed Jeremy Scott's T-shirt as he took his bow on the Moschino runway – just one of the messages coming from the Creative Director's Autumn/Winter 2017 line-up. 'Want not, waste not' was the other…

Known for taking a kitsch theme and running with it, Jeremy Scott built his Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Moschino around the notion of paper dolls – the old fashioned kind with the tabs that folded back to hold a garment in place.