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Saturday, October 13, 2012

GIA attended the Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair to learn how it can serve the local community with gemological education and resources. This initiative is part of GIA’s expanded effort to help bring the broader benefits of the gem trade to people in the places where gems are produced.

The following has been re-printed with the permission of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)...

Add Value to East Africa Gems and People Will Shine, Too

By Robert Weldon, GG

GIA Manager of Photography and Visual Communications

Figure 2: A young lion pauses at a watering hole at the
N'goroN’goro Conservation Area in Tanzania.

Once the lions left the watering hole to hunt, Miriam Kamau was able to collect the water she needed for her own survival. Aside from the daily task of avoiding contact with these carnivores, the conditions near the mines at which she worked near Voi, Kenya, were fraught with other types of hostility.“I hunted for meat, lived like a boy (to avoid problems a young woman might face) and I dug for gemstones. For most people there is no understanding about working at the mines – seeing life and death, feeling it, and smelling it,” she explained. “But I always knew those conditions would change. I knew this from my faith and because of my hunger for knowledge.”

Kamau, a Nairobi, Kenya-based gem dealer, attended the first-ever Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair (AIGMF) held in late April 2012. Like many other gem dealers across Africa, Kamau personifies the struggles of so many Africans to eke out a living in the gem business.And yet East Africa remains one of the world’s greatest suppliers of gemstones, many of which can’t be found anywhere else. As the African economies grow, in part by meeting global demand for rare earth minerals, metals, diamonds and gems, the question arises: will its people be able to reap the rewards and surge ahead as well?The city of Arusha, Tanzania owes its existence to tourism. Located close to Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro and noteworthy wildlife preserves such as the N’goro N’goro Conservation Area, it hosts visitors from around the world who come to see its natural beauty. Arusha, which can be reached on a direct flight from Europe, also benefits from the wealth and natural resources of nearby gem mines, particularly tanzanite.

Figure 5: A tanzanite cutter polishes rough at the TanzaniteOne facilities. TanzaniteOne,the largest gem miner in the region, said it is building a much larger cutting facility in Tanzania.

The AIGMF show, with substantial support from the Tanzanian government and the Tanzania Mineral Dealers Association (TAMIDA), shed light on the efforts the country is making to bring business to the source and help Tanzanians gain a stronger foothold in the gem and jewelry industry.“One year in preparation, [the show] illustrates the magnitude of importance our government has placed on this,” said William Ngeleja, Tanzania’s recently departed minister of energy and minerals.“We want to see transactions for gems mined here to be concluded here. We also want to create incentives for foreign buyers to relocate and bring in the necessary resources for capacity building – be it in exploration, the mining sector, the cutting sector or jewelry making. This will help job creation, poverty alleviation and be good for our country,” he explains.The show clearly reflected his government’s attitude and was deemed a largely positive experience for exhibitors and buyers. It drew 500 attendees from 25 countries; 300 were buyers representing 200 companies.“Considering this was our first attempt, I could not be more encouraged and happy,” said the show’s organizing chairman, gem dealer Abe Suleman, who is based in Arusha. “Tanzania exported $3.9 million in sales at the show.”

Figure 9: Miriam Kamau provides textbooks for teachers at her school and is working with local food providers to make school meals available to students.
Image courtesy of Miriam Kamau.

Other important milestones were reached as well. For one, AIGMF successfully brought gem dealers from across East Africa together in an open, business-friendly environment. Show officials acknowledged some recalcitrance from potential exhibitors from neighboring countries who were not sure how their exports into Tanzania would be handled.Government officials said they will redouble their efforts to open the borders for import and export so neighboring countries such as Kenya, Zambia and Mozambique can easily bring goods to the show. This will have a significant impact on the amount of gems available to buy at the show, a necessary draw for international buyers.

Figure 4: VIP delegates at the Arusha International Gem and Mineral Fair included (from left to right)

of Energy and Minerals, Abe Suleman of Tuckman Mines and Minerals, Sammy Mollel, Chairman of

TAMIDA, and Idar-Oberstein Germany-based gem dealer, Eckehard Petsch.

“It will need more of a critical mass to guarantee success,” said American Gem Trade Association’s CEO, Doug Hucker, who attended the show as guest. “As we know, what attracts buyers are goods. I would like to see a much larger cooperation between regional governments to ensure it will work.”Monica Gichuhi, CEO of the Kenya Chamber of Mines, said the potential for gem mining on a large scale in her country is also vast and they look forward to bringing more goods to the Arusha show.“We need mechanization, support, and know-how,” she explained, "and we are looking for equitable partnerships. So for us, the AIGMF was an excellent forum to meet people and exchange ideas. I can also say that Kenya supports value addition.”

Another hot topic at the show was the debate among Tanzanians and gem dealers regarding the efficacy of a “certificate of origin” the country wishes to impose on the export of gem materials, particularly tanzanite, to curb illegal exports, or smuggling.Critics point out that the added burdens and costs of the paperwork, not to mention fear of governmental interference, would only exacerbate illegal exports. Additionally, countries importing gems from Tanzania will have to sign bilateral agreements and ensure that certificates of origin actually accompany them, something not a single importing country has agreed to.At the heart of the government’s intention is a desire to create a value-added industry in Tanzania. Officials acknowledge that most tanzanite rough is fashioned in Jaipur, India, a factor they would like to see reversed.

Figure 3: Tanzanite, one of East Africa’s most notable gems, is a form of the mineral zoisite. Discovered in 1967, it is only found in Tanzania. Tanzanite crystal specimen courtesy of Evan Caplan, and the faceted tanzanite, 10.22 carats is courtesy of John Dyer & Co

.

“We want the development of this sector to be industry-driven, but note that while it all begins right here in Tanzania, there are only a few hundred cutters here compared to several thousand in India,” Ngeleja explained. “This disparity needs to be overcome; what we are asking for is that the Indians become partners in helping us build business here in Tanzania and in East Africa.”Kamau’s perseverance – her tenacity to become a gem dealer – paid off. She attributes this to close spiritual counsel from her mother, Grace Kamau; her mentor, minister Teresa Wairimu Kinyanjui; and advice and introductions from people she met in the business.One was the late and legendary gem explorer and miner, Campbell Bridges, who discovered Kenya’s tsavorite garnet at Taita-Taveta (near Voi) decades ago. He introduced her to several people, including Judy Waigwa who gave Kamau her first lessons in mining and understanding gem rough. Waigwa also took her to Thailand, showing her the possibilities of transacting business on a grander scale.Soon the young woman who eluded lions near the mines was conducting gem business as a broker and gem dealer. She met members of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) including its Kenyan ambassador, Suzie Kennedy, who persuaded her to become an ICA member. “You have what it takes,” Kennedy told her.Everyone she has come in contact with has taught her something new, she said, over time sharpening her business and gemological skills. And the baton has been passed: Kamau is today’s Kenyan ambassador to the ICA.East Africa’s emerging position as one of the world’s important gem purveyors needs to remain strong as well as sustainable so its people, like Kamau, can thrive, too.

Figure 7: Gem dealer Bill Larson spoke about the amazing
variety of gemstones are found in Eastern Africa.

“In the 1960s, Africa was a very minor player on the world colored gemstone scene,” said Bill Larson, a gem dealer based in Fallbrook, California, who gave the keynote presentation on the history of East African gemstones at the AIGMF show. “Look at where you are today,” Larson told attendees. "You have gemstones that are exclusive to Africa, like tanzanite and tsavorite, but also very important sapphire and ruby deposits in recent years. And it has all come about relatively quickly.”Infrastructure will be needed to build a value-added gem business in East Africa. Even if roads and cutting facilities are built, however, a truly skilled labor force remains elusive, and will only emerge as the need is defined.At the fair, Colorado-based master gem cutter Stephen Avery donated his time to teaching faceting seminars and noted that attendance at his seminars was filled to the brim every day, underscoring a hunger for knowledge.For its part, AIGMF has kicked off a vigorous campaign to raise funds to educate and empower small-scale miners and gem dealers – particularly women.

Figure 6: The Tanzanian government favors cutting a larger percentage of the rough
material mined from its country, in a bid to add value to its exports. These
TanzaniteOne facilities are cutting a small percentage of the rough they mine.

“We have commitments for about $75,000 from various segments to establish a panel to administer scholarships. Right now our focus is on empowerment for women; they have a greater need and are a very stable part of the labor force in Africa,” Suleman said.The foundation is looking for ways people can learn gem cutting and jewelry making, which is the government of Tanzania’s over-arching goal. TanzaniteOne, the region’s large-scale mine for tanzanite, has contributed to the empowerment fund and said it is constructing a large facility for cutting tanzanite at the source.While just the beginning of a change for East African gemstones, it is something tangible that will help the people of Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique and Zambia help themselves.Kamau said that even though her living is modest, she feels blessed by the people she has met over time, and by the magnificent array of gems East Africa provides. She is especially grateful to those who are confident in her abilities, such as Intercolor USA’s Benjamin Hackman, who is as an important business mentor for her. “He is like a father to me.”

Figure 9: Miriam Kamau provides textbooks for teachers at her school and is working with local food providers
to make school meals available to students. Image courtesy of Miriam Kamau.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Le Vian, a pioneer in the fine jewelry world whose name has become synonymous with trend-setting baubles, has launched a new subcollection: Le Vian Exotics. Known for their jewelry creations showcasing vibrant gemstones, this innovative design concept combines a kaleidoscope of colors, presenting a new array of palettes in bold and primary hues. The first launch of Le Vian Exotics is the Mixberry Diamonds Collection, which features a masterful combination of candy colors including Reds (Cherryberry Diamonds), Greens (Greenberry Diamonds), Yellows (Goldenberry Diamonds) and Blues (Blueberry Diamonds). Other collections under the Le Vian Exotics name include the Midnight Berries Collection: a blend of Blackberry Diamonds and Blueberry Diamonds, the Blueberry Collection: featuring Blueberry Diamonds and Vanilla Diamonds and the Blackberry Collection: Blackberry Diamonds and Vanilla Diamonds with stripes and swirls in the design. The Le Vian Exotics collection is complimented by the brand's signature metals including Strawberry Gold® and Honey Gold. With Le Vian Exotics, the brand is able to play with color, while remaining true to the Le Vian aesthetic of fashion-forward yet timeless jewelry.

Le Vian is available at select luxury retailers internationally and the Le Vian Exotics Collection will be debuting at Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, Kay Jewelers and Macy's.

The Gemmological Association of Great Britain, or Gem-A, is the world’s longest established provider of gem and jewellery education. Our Diploma in Gemmology is the direct descendant of the gem course proposed for the UK jewellery trade in 1908. Our prestigious Diplomas in Gemmology and Diamonds, taught around the world, are globally recognized as qualifications of the highest status. Diploma graduates may apply for election to Fellowship (FGA) or Diamond Membership (DGA) of the Association.

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Dabble in your darkside  bridal is the new black for Spring 2013. A color previously cast as the ultimate bad luck omen for nuptials has revamped its image, seeping into the heavily sought-after bridal collections for the upcoming season.

Mysteriously romantic and whimsically gothic, fashion-forward brides can channel the noir trend in full-form through voluminous wedding gowns in shadowy shades of organza, tulle and chiffon or capture their sinister side with onyx and black diamond statement jewels.

Say au revoir to conventional white for a new tradition - no longer taboo, brides can now say I Do in dark, dramatic fashion. Ivory and cream are passé as designers throw away societys matrimonial rule book in favor of Springs boldest style statement to date.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

The Future of Design Jewelry Education Fund, a charitable fund founded and administered by Cindy Edelstein, announces it’s first scholarship competition this month to the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco.

The online application opens Sept. 15th 2012 - deadline is Jan. 15th, 2013.This year’s grant is in honor of Colorado jewelry designer Alice Abrams and will be awarded to an active jewelry designer who wishes to attend the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco, California.

The Future of Design Jewelry Education Fund in The New York Community Trust was established by Edelstein “to foster the future development of talented American jewelry designers by providing financial assistance in the form of scholarships, partial scholarships and awards to qualified students studying design and/or metals and/or jewelry courses at accredited educational institutions.”

Ms. Abrams is an accomplished jewelry designer as well as a longtime supporter of young talent in the jewelry industry. Now she is going further by providing a generous contribution for the first scholarship from The Future of Design Jewelry Education Fund, which will be awarded in her honor.

“Alice’s talent and dedication to her craft, plus her commitment to helping others is well documented,” said Ms. Edelstein. “But few know how far back her career goes or how deep her roots extend in the metalsmithing community." She was, Edelstein continued, "in all likelihood the first woman to have a union card as a bench jeweler in the early '50's. Since then,” Ms. Edelstein added, "Over the course of her career, Alice has displayed her collections nationally and sold her work through art and jewelry galleries around the country as well as producing pieces for private commissions.”

The scholarship competition is open to anyone looking for the Revere Academy educational experience. Jurors will look for an individual whose work displays original, innovative, high quality jewelry design. The winner will be awarded $2500 in tuition credit, which can be applied toward any classes at the school for one year, including the Academy’s famed Master’s Symposium that takes place each Spring. Applicants must submit three print-ready images (up to 9MB in size each) of their work and answer two short essay questions.

Alice AbramsA designer and goldsmith, Alice Abrams began her career in the arts at age eight, when she won her first art award from P.S. 233 in New York City. Alice was selected to attend New York's prestigious High School of Music and Art, after which she attended Cornell University's School of Architecture. Ms. Abrams then graduated from Pratt Institute in New York, majoring in Art Education. Ms. Abrams’ nascent artistic abilities were enhanced during an apprenticeship to highly recognized New York goldsmith, Ed Weiner. The earliest recognition for her jewelry was the "Young Americans Competition" in 1954, the same year she established Alice Abrams Jewelry. Subsequently Ms. Abrams received awards ranging from the "NASA Space Competition" to the "Swarovski Award," and she has represented the United States in an exhibition in Japan.

Ms. Abrams is a founding board member of the Alliance for Contemporary Art in Denver, and also a member of the International Women's Forum, a worldwide networking organization of women community leaders as well as The Society of North American Goldsmiths, The Women's Jewelry Association, San Diego and The Colorado Metalsmiths Association. Alice Abrams is married to Dr. Fredrick R. Abrams and they have three sons.

The Revere Academy of Jewelry ArtsThe Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts has been a center for jewelers and jewelry since 1979, when it was founded by master goldsmith Alan Revere. Over the past 30 years, thousands of students and professional jewelers, from across the US and around the globe, have come to San Francisco to learn traditional jewelry making skills. “The Revere Academy is a great place to begin a career, add new skills, stimulate creativity, and network,” says it founder and director, Alan Revere who teaches many of the classes. Students of all ages and abilities learn from nationally recognized craftsmen who teach the skills they use every day. The faculty includes more than a dozen master craftsmen and experts who love what they do and are eager to share their passion and knowledge. Located in the beautiful corner suite on the ninth floor of the Phelan Building, San Francisco's historic jewelry center, the Academy has two fully equipped, state-of-the-art studios, which feature live video blow-ups so that students can see every detail. “It’s even better than leaning over a master's shoulder,” say most students. The Academy’s annual Master’s Symposium offers the opportunity to study under renowned visiting craftsmen and craftswomen who teach the specific techniques that they use to make award-winning work.

Cindy Edelstein and The Jeweler's Resource Bureau

Cindy Edelstein is an award-winning entrepreneur who has made it her mission to support the growth of designer fine jewelry as a retail category, an art form, and a community. It is a micro-niche but one she has dedicated her whole career to supporting. She founded the Future of Design Jewelry Education Fund several years ago as a means to support education and growth in the jewelry design field.

Cindy is an author, speaker, consultant and owner of Jeweler’s Resource Bureau, an umbrella marketing firm specializing in helping designers grow and prosper with unique trade events, publications, seminars and the industry’s first Project Runway-like Business Incubator Contest called Future of Design. She works with big organizations, as well, helping them understand the designer community. She helps trade shows, membership organizations and even foreign export entities work with the design world. Her social media profile spans the worlds of design, manufacturing and retail across the fine jewelry, fine accessory and fine craft industries. She is the co-author with her husband Frank Stankus, of the book “Brilliance: The Art of the American Jewelry Design Council” and together they produce an annual designer business conference, a series of a specialty trade show called globalDESIGN and an online marketing intelligence community for designers. Cindy often addresses design schools, industry gatherings and networking events to help design professionals understand more about entrepreneurship.

Sotheby’s is honored to announce that it will offer an important selection of jewelry from the collection of philanthropist, arts patron and collector Mrs. Charles Wrightsman in a dedicated auction on 5 December 2012 in New York. Magnificent Jewels from the Collection of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman will comprise more than 60 lots reflective of Mrs. Wrightsman’s elegant personal style, with historically important pieces spanning from 19th century diamond jewels to contemporary designs by JAR – evidence of her comprehensive taste and connoisseurship. Select highlights from the sale will travel to Hong Kong, Geneva, LosAngeles and London* before returning for exhibition in Sotheby’s York Avenue galleries beginning 1 December, alongside the auction of Magnificent Jewels.

“It is a privilege to offer these superb jewels from Mrs. Wrightsman’s collection,” commented Lisa Hubbard, Sotheby’s Chairman, North and South America, International Jewelry Division. “Included are designs from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Boucheron, Fred Leighton and JAR. Each piece is interesting in its own right, with many fashioned to her personal specifications by her jewelers of choice, and all crafted for effect. The selection is carefully curated and meant to be worn, and together provides insight into Mrs. Wrightsman’s much-admired style. The collection is multifaceted and includes jewels for every occasion, classic designs that are a mixture of color and texture, and jewels that define elegance and sparkle in candlelight.”

Rare Natural Gray Pearl and Diamond BroochEstimate $400/600,000This jewel has been called an “exceptional natural pearl” by the SSEF laboratory in Switzerland, who also state that the pearl “possesses outstanding characteristics and merits special mention and appreciation.”

India-born, Canadian designer Ahluwalia designed a piece (pictured) for Forevermark jeweler Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers inspired by eternal love and pledged to support, advocate and work with responsibly sourced diamonds.

“As a designer, I find myself in a great position to make a difference through my designs this is why it is an honor to be a part of the Forevermark Promise collection,'' said Ahluwalia. ''The 'Eternal' necklace designed for Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers, my contribution to the Forevermark promise collection is inspired by the promise of eternal love. The piece captures the nature of eternity and a lover’s promise. Just like Forevermark diamonds, the design of this piece celebrates the promise of love that stays forever.”

"I promise you my love for as long as there are stars in the sky." (I was inspired by this line, that I read somewhere)

INSPIRATION - 85-carat 'Eternal' Necklace by Reena Ahluwalia

"The 'Eternal' necklace is inspired by the promise of eternal love. The continuous form of the necklace comes together in an unbroken knot as it's central focus. The knot symbolizes a lover's promise of never-ending love and trust. The collar consists of star motifs in the sky representing eternity. The five cascading elements below the knot are the five building blocks of the universe - earth, fire, sky, water and air. The design celebrates the promise of love that stays forever."

Fine Art jewelry created with the highest quality gems and precious metals in the world. Founded by the scion of a family of jewelers dating back to the 11th century and a world class designer with a back-ground in fashion, art, and history. Timeless, handcrafted pieces to treasure forever.

The jewelry brand ADAMS&ARIDO created by designers Arid Chappell, Jesse Raphael and Sam Salama is taking the world by storm.

Colored diamonds in 18k Yellow Gold

When ARIDO teamed up with Egyptian jewelry designer Sam Salama there were just two rules to follow...meet nice people and have a good life. Both of which comes pretty easy when your sole mission is to search the world for precious gems and create luxurious jewels.ARIDO has extensive experience when it comes to knowing what it takes to get on the A-list.This latest Collaboration, ADAMS&ARIDO, has been successfully presented on the world tour in China, touring the cities of Shanghai, Dalian, Chengdu, Hangzhou, Wenchuan, and Neijian.

Check out this great interview:Fenghuang fashion exclusive dialogue with American jewelry designer Arido

Look for theADAMS&ARIDOGlobal Winter print campaign...to be featured in the Ritz Carlton and JW Marriott Magazine breaking worldwide October 1, 2012.

About AridoAs a successful fashion designer and international stylist, Arid Chappell has been turning heads for the past 25 years, gracing the red carpets of such prestigious premieres as The Emmys, The Grammys, The Oscars, The Golden Globes, The Independent Spirit Awards, The NAACP Image Awards, and more. Arid has dressed the top Hollywood A list stars such as, Paris Hilton, Desperate Housewife Stars, Terri Hatcher and Vanessa Williams, original Broadway Dream Girl Star Loretta Devine, Halle Berry, Toni Braxton, Nicole Richie, Jennifer Love Hewitt, Lindsey Lohan and a host of others Hollywood stars. ARIDO Jewelry has been featured in Vogue China, NEEU China, MSN Luxury, Modern Luxury Hawaii/Japan, Four Season Magazine, Lid Magazine.

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Forevermark, the diamond brand from the De Beers Group of companies, is proud to unveil The Forevermark Promise Exhibition – a collection of pledges and exceptional diamond pieces from some of today’s most prodigious design talent.

Each Forevermark diamond is inscribed with a promise that it is beautiful, rare and responsibly sourced. Inspired by the belief that all promises should be as unbreakable as theirs, Forevermark invited select partners from around the world to create diamond jewelry that reflects and is inspired by the word: Promise. Including meticulously crafted creations from both global, and national talents, together, these pieces comprise the Forevermark Promise Exhibition.

Comprising pieces from the U.K., the U.S., China, Hong Kong and India, the exhibition is diverse in design styles, comprising delicate, romantic notions through to more challenging and progressive concepts. The theme of Promise, however, is resonant throughout, inspiring any visitor to re-examine the importance of promises in their lives.

India-born, Canadian designer Ahluwalia designed a piece (pictured) for Forevermark jeweler Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers inspired by eternal love and pledged to support, advocate and work with responsibly sourced diamonds.

“As a designer, I find myself in a great position to make a difference through my designs this is why it is an honor to be a part of the Forevermark Promise collection,'' said Ahluwalia. ''The 'Eternal' necklace designed for Vummidi Bangaru Jewellers, my contribution to the Forevermark promise collection is inspired by the promise of eternal love. The piece captures the nature of eternity and a lover’s promise. Just like Forevermark diamonds, the design of this piece celebrates the promise of love that stays forever.”

The U.S.-based fashion designer Roy promised to never stop striving to make the world a better place for her children and for women and children who do not have a voice to speak for themselves.

India-based jeweler and designer from The Rose International, Vaidya promised to care, love and forever be there for family and friends.

U.K.-based Leane promised to live to love, to share and appreciate the present.

London-based jeweler Webster made a very personal promise to always keep exciting people through the creativity and progressive nature of his jewelry design.

Chinese actress Wei made her first foray into jewelry design through the exhibition (see entry at top of article) and promised to take up new challenges, broaden her vision and experience, as well as to bring a sense of hope and warmth to those in need.

The full collection of exhibition pieces and promises can be seen on the Collection website www.apromiseshared.com where Forevermark invites everyone to join thousands of others by making and sharing a promise.

About Forevermark Forevermark is a separately managed division within the De Beers Group of companies. The division’s main mission is to build and develop the Forevermark diamond brand.

Forevermark also holds responsibility within the De Beers group of companies for driving diamond demand in key markets and maintaining consumer confidence in diamonds. Forevermark diamonds are carefully selected and come from sources committed to the highest standards; are beautifully crafted by a select group of diamantaires; and are exclusively available in select jewellers.