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Engine noise 2005 1200GS

I know I have a problem, but I'd like some thoughts on the severity. While on a recent road trip a few hundred miles from home the following occurred. When I started my bike after filling up, a noise came from the motor similar to a baseball card in a bicycle spoke. I immediately shut it down and pushed her away from the pumps to a shady area. After weighing my options and not having any good ones, I started the bike again to attempt to tell where the noise was coming from. To my surprise, the noise was gone. I shut it back off, let it sit for awhile, restarted, again no noise. I thought what the heck, and rode home with no phantom engine noises. Now, whenever I start her after sitting for twelve hours or more I hear a sound like a chain running dry. After about thirty seconds it quietens down. Any thoughts?

Probably the timing chain tensioner on the left cylinder is getting sticky. Mine did - replaced it at 63,000 miles and very little startup noise. Strangely when I removed the old one - I was unable to compress it. The new replacement was compressible and has a spring it it to extended it. The part is around $100 or so.

Questions?

I too am approaching 100000m(GSA1200'07) and think mine getting noisy on starts. The tensioner? Is it on both sides or just left side? EASY to get into and swap out? I may look at mine and see. I've seen this pop up before, just my turn to ask. You think its a warranty covered thingy, as I am with 7 year one? My dealer opens at 9AM, think I'll call'em, let yall know what they say. I am very capable doing work myself, so thanks for giving me some heads up on the job, especially if its an easy fix. Thanks. Randy

I too am approaching 100000m(GSA1200'07) and think mine getting noisy on starts. The tensioner? Is it on both sides or just left side? EASY to get into and swap out? I may look at mine and see. I've seen this pop up before, just my turn to ask. You think its a warranty covered thingy, as I am with 7 year one? My dealer opens at 9AM, think I'll call'em, let yall know what they say. I am very capable doing work myself, so thanks for giving me some heads up on the job, especially if its an easy fix. Thanks. Randy

Randy..

- There are two tensioners - the one that was sticking on my bike was the port side one (cylinder #2.) Replacing that one requires removal of the throttle-body to access it. If you have the correct clamp pliers this isn't a big deal. I did replace the starboard side one also (sticks right out of the bottom of the cylinder on that side, port side one is on top) - and it had no effect.

- Mine was covered by the Contego/National warranty. It was the only thing I ever collected on that warranty.

- With the mileage on your bike 100K *miles*? You may want to take a look at the rocker arm endplay. From my experience, it appears that's worth checking about every 60k miles or so. If the endplay is excessive it will sound a bit clattery on startup.

Thanks Don;

I did ask my dealer and not likely a warranty claim as wear item on bike! I did not push it further. My tech guy did say the left side was the bugger to get at. I rode today and the bike seemed ok, but my miles are high. Seems the standard ones are hydraulic only and even the dealer says they can come out and no visual fault is clear. They just replace' em, about 30+ tensioners to date over the years. My engine rattles for maybe 2 seconds on startups and I think its always done this and probably likely as oil pressure builds to keep tensioners full? I guess. I will take good heed to advice here, so thanks. I wrench routinely, so I do this kind of job as needed. You say about 100$, each side, for new tensioners? Randy

I did ask my dealer and not likely a warranty claim as wear item on bike! I did not push it further. My tech guy did say the left side was the bugger to get at. I rode today and the bike seemed ok, but my miles are high. Seems the standard ones are hydraulic only and even the dealer says they can come out and no visual fault is clear. They just replace' em, about 30+ tensioners to date over the years. My engine rattles for maybe 2 seconds on startups and I think its always done this and probably likely as oil pressure builds to keep tensioners full? I guess. I will take good heed to advice here, so thanks. I wrench routinely, so I do this kind of job as needed. You say about 100$, each side, for new tensioners? Randy

One the throttle body is moved out of the way (get the band-pliers to R&R the hose clamps) - getting the tensioner out isn't a huge deal. It was a big PITA on the R1150xx engines since the paralever pivot point was right above it. There is more clearance on the R1200xx engines. My port (left) side one was the guilty one. I may hear a tiny tap now on startup (not audible if I have earplugs in) - but before it was prolonged for 3-5 seconds and I didn't like that.

Max references: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hain+tensioner - which shows it done on an 1150 engine, which is WAY more work then it took doing it on the 1200 engine (I've done both..) Remove the two clamps on the throttle body, the one clamp on the airbox fitting, wiggle the rubber tube connecting the TB and airbox off - then wiggle the throttle-body back and out of the rubber mount on the head. No need to disconnect gas lines, throttle cables, etc. You may want to unplug the throttle position sensor connector and the connector to the fuel injector. Then move the TB back and the top of the tensioner will be visible. Unscrew it and remove the cylinder and piston, put the new copper ring on the new one and drop it in, tighten to spec. Reassembly is the reverse.