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Places

Hidden Treasure

By Anita Peach

Seeking sun and scenery in Australia, Anita Peach finds much more than she bargained for in the Atherton Tableland, Tropical North Queensland

The beautiful Falls Teahouse Bed and Breakfast

There I was driving through the green rolling hills and mountains that
form the basis of the Tablelands; a lush region, with lakes and waterfalls set in
rainforest. Quaint villages and countless farms dot this amazing landscape. As I neared the Millaa
Millaa township, I stumbled upon the Falls Teahouse; a converted country-style
farmhouse serving magnificent food, with guest accommodation available too. The house was
traditional looking, in crisp black and white mock-tudor style. However, this was no ordinary
farmhouse – the inside was literally covered from floor to ceiling in patchworks. The place
was like finding a gemstone in a goldmine. I truly thought I’d died and gone to heaven!

Blue Log Cabin quilt on guest bed

Picturesque

Almost a century old, this picturesque farmhouse was
converted to a teahouse and then to a B&B just a few years ago, when
David and Neradeene McKendry purchased the long-standing
derelict building. Today, it serves as a wonderful home for the
McKendrys plus three beautiful guest bedrooms, decorated with
some unusual period furniture and, best of all, a large patchwork
quilt which takes the centre stage of each bedroom. Beautifully
hand-stitched by David’s mother, Margaret, the quilts are all
different in their style and colour. In one of the bedrooms, a blue
nine-patch quilt makes for a very calming tone, while another room
has a lovely hexagonal patchwork spread in multicolour, giving the
room a childlike essence of fun. The bedrooms all lead onto a
private and peaceful reading room which has magnificent country
views. Here, patchwork throws, cushions and wall-hangings all add
to the charming personality of the house. The place is packed full
of character. A wonderful claw-footed bath makes a great
centrepiece in the bathroom, as well as a real statement about
the house: a little relaxation and indulgence is the order of the day!

Colourful hexagonal patchwork quilt

The large dining area is perfect for afternoon tea, while the
wooden veranda at the back of the house is host to some
spectacular views of the Tablelands, providing a great
backdrop for my hearty breakfast of freshly baked
muffins and bread, and cereal or fruit, with yogurt straight
from the dairy farm just down the road. At night, while those
Friesian cows can be heard roaming the fields next door,
much wildlife also comes to life, making a stay at the house
a really unusual experience. Despite the strangeness of the
noises outside, I slept like a koala (Well, maybe not for quite as a
long as a koala, who averages something like 21 hours a day!).

However there’s far more to do in the Tablelands than just
sleeping and relaxing. The charming teahouse is actually set
on the ‘waterfalls circuit’, which includes Mungalli Falls, Millaa
Millaa Falls, Zillie Falls and Ellinjaa Falls, to name a few.
The town’s name, Millaa Millaa, is the aboriginal word for ‘plenty
of water’ and in turn the landscape is filled with green grass, rainforest,
and tropical plants as far as the eye can see. It’s a true beauty
spot. The Millaa Millaa Falls themselves have been featured
in Qantas airline advertisements and are even reported by locals
to be the place where the classic Timotei shampoo advert was
recorded; the one where the Scandinavian woman washes
her really long, beautiful blonde hair under the waterfall.

Wall Hanging

The famous Millaa Millaa Falls

Both the teahouse and the waterfall circuit attract guests from
across the globe. Visitors can expect to see beautiful country
views, with a range of bird life and local fauna; enjoy misty
morning walks to the falls and rainforest; visit the neighbouring
dairy to watch the milking and even feed the calves. All this
from the comfort of a fabulous house offering some of the finest
home-made cooking I’ve ever tasted. The owner David is also
the head chef, and he recently ventured to Tuscany for a touch of
fine food inspiration – his dishes certainly have an air of Italian
sophistication to them. David even bakes his own bread, muffins and
scones, ensuring that anyone who stops for a spot of afternoon cream
tea would not be disappointed, while those who stay for the
night are in for a double tasty treat for dinner and breakfast.

Kangaroo Wall Hanging

Fabulous Food

Food is big business in Millaa Millaa. The tiny village is also
equipped with a bakery, convenience store and a cheese
shop. It once supported the thriving local dairy industry. Sadly only
the Mungali Falls diary still exists, but it produces the most
extraordinary mango yogurt, capable of tantalising even the
poorest of palates. In all, Millaa Millaa is simply a wonderful
experience for all your senses

The Tablelands are set off the beaten tourist track of East Coast
Australia, but they are more than worth taking some time out to visit.
The area is a popular weekend escape for residents from the city
of Cairns, and a great holiday destination for anyone interested
in stunning scenery and the chance to unwind with nature.
Located just 60km southwest of Cairns, the Tablelands are
positioned on a plateau (hence the name Tableland), ranging
from 600 to 1100 metres above sea level. It is a very unique
landscape, often missed by the hordes of tourists travelling down
the coast. And to complete your visit to the Tablelands, some of
Margaret McKendry’s Australian patchwork wall-hangings are
available for sale near the entrance to the farmhouse, at
more than modest prices.

Fresian cow wall-hanging

Qantas Airline flies direct from London airports to Cairns.
The Atherton Tablelands and Millaa Millaa falls are 11⁄2 hours
drive from Cairns. For more information on the area visit
www.tablelands.org