Product Description

If you own a 1987-1993 Fox Mustang, this kit is for you! The 50Resto Exterior Renewal Kit contains all the typical weatherstrip and trim that is prone to wear and fade on Fox Mustangs.

Mustang Weatherstrip
The 50Resto Exterior Renewal Kit includes new Door to Body Weatherstrip, Hatch/Trunk Weatherstrip, Run Channel Weatherstrip, & Outer Door Belt Weatherstrip. These are direct replacements for your torn and cracked originals. Door to Body and Hatch/Trunk Weatherstrips are typically torn and may have entire chunks missing! Window Run Channel and Outer Door Belt Weatherstrips bake in the sun, become brittle and crack to pieces.

Mustang Trim
The Exterior Renewal Kit also includes new Outer Door Belt Moldings with attaching hardware, Roof Rail Moldings, Cowl Vent Grille, Lower Windshield Moldings, and Black Metal Outer Door Handles with attaching hardware. These are direct replacements for the originals. Outer Door Belt and Roof Rail Moldings are actually pieces of aluminum that are bonded with rubber. These bake in the sun causing the rubber to crack and peel away. The Cowl Vent Grille and Lower Windshield Moldings fade terribly, becoming crusty with age. Factory Door Handles are plastic and are always faded & broken.

Mustang Exterior Trim Paint
Church up the rest with a new coat of paint! Be sure your Door Window Frames, Wiper Arms, Windshield Reveal Molding, and Rear Glass Reveal Molding match all your new Exterior Trim! You can also use it to renew your Quarter Window Trim!

Need to restore the exterior of your 87-93 Fox Body Mustang? Well LatemodelRestoration.com and 5.0Resto have the most comprehensive kit on the market! Pick up the Exterior Renewal Kit for your coupe or hatchback Mustang today. This kit includes the following exterior restoration parts:

JONATHAN MCDONALD: Fox Mustangs, especially the '87 and '93, have a host of failure-prone weather strip and exterior trim. Luckily 5.0 Resto comes to the rescue with the most comprehensive exterior trim and weather strip kit for Fox Mustangs. It includes all the pertinent components to bring your Mustang back up to the higher standard it belongs-- or put it back together after a paint job.

This kit fits '87 and '93 hard tops. And that includes coups and hatchbacks. And you can grab yours over at latemodelrestoration.com. And be sure to check out the video in tech section so you can see first-hand how to put all these parts on your Mustang.

Broken Outer Door Handles on Fox Body Mustangs are a common problem. Nothing is worse than not being able to open your Mustang door! Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to replace/install/remove your Mustang door handles.

This is a driver and passenger side outer door handle kit for your 1979-1993 Mustang. The original door handles on the later Fox Mustangs were made from plastic and commonly tend to break over time. Our new replacement door handles are made from metal instead of plastic for a long lasting fix for your Mustang. This door handle kit comes with a black painted finish and ready to be installed.

Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!!

Transcript

[MUSIC PLAYING]

Hi I'm Jonathon.

And I'm Jeff and we're with latemodelrestoration.com. Today we're going to show you how to replace those broken outer door handles on your '79 to '93 Fox Mustang. This is actually a very common problem on these year models because of the factory plastic handles that were on the outside of the car. Now Jonathan, tell them a little bit more about the 5.0 Resto replacement handle kit.

Absolutely Jeff. Our 5.0 Resto handles are made out of metal so you don't ever have to worry about them breaking again. We have them coated in both trim black and in chrome. And that way we've got you covered, no matter what your car requires. And we always include the attaching rivets.

All right Jonathan. Also it looks like you've brought your tools. Tell them a little bit more about the specialty ones that are required for the install.

Tools you'll need to put on your door handle-- take off and put on your door handle-- hammer and a drift and get out the original mandrels from the existing rivets, drill and 3/8 drill bit to drill out the existing rivet heads, and then a large rivet gun to install your new door handle and rivets.

All right. Looks like we've got all the tools. Let's get back here Jonathan and get this install started.

Sounds good. While Jeff was removing the door panel I went ahead and taped off the area around the door handle. That way we wouldn't damage the paint.

All right guys. Now if you have any questions on removing your door panel, make sure you check out our YouTube channel for a how to video on removing your door panel.

To get started with removing your door handle, grab your hammer and your drift. And you're going to have these little hardened steel mandrels that are left in the original rivets. Just go ahead and knock those into the door. And Jeff, if you would pull those out whenever they come in.

All right.

Then you can go ahead and take your drill [INAUDIBLE]. And you don't want to completely drill through the rivet. Just drill through the head and whenever the head pops loose, stop drilling. Now that you have the rivet heads removed, you can go ahead and push down on the inside rod and remove the handle from the door. Go back on with your new handle. Slide it in and engage it with the rod.

As you can see, I've already got one rivet in place. Go ahead and grab your large rivet gun. Insert the rivet. And you can engage the door.

All right Jonathan, looks like you're finishing up. Now I know sometimes people use bolts to install these door handles but we used rivets. Can you tell me a little bit more on why?

Sure thing Jeff. A lot of people will tell you that using carriage bolts with some nylon lock nuts is an easier and cheaper way to install your door handles. That's simply not the case because those lock nuts will loosen over time and you end up with a loose door handle which is just like having a broken one. We use the OE type rivets. That way you end up with a permanent installation.

All right appreciate it Jonathan. Looks great. Now if you need more tech tips and install videos for your Fox Mustang, make sure you check out latemodelrestoration.com.

Jeff: Today we are here to talk to you about cowl vent grilles and lower windshield moldings for your Fox Mustang. Before we get on to this install, Jonathan tell them a little bit more about these parts.

Jonathan: Will do. Our cowl vent grille and lower windshield molding kit is the best on the market. The cowl vent grille is an exact reproduction of the original. And is a direct replacement for 1983-93 Fox Body Mustangs. The lower windshield molding comes out of the original Ford tooling. It even has the ford original part number and Ford oval stamped on the back.

Jeff: I also noticed you brought a hardware kit. Can you tell them a little more about that.

Jonathan: We highly recommend you picking up one of our Mustang Cowl Vent hardware kits whenever you are doing this install. It comes with the six screws and four plastic inserts, that way you get rid of the broken and rusted hardware that is probably on your car right now.

Jeff: Well hey Jonathan a appreciate all that knowledge. Let’s get this install started.

Jonathan: Let’s Do It!

Jeff: To removal the cowl vent grille, the first step is to remove the windshield wipers. As you can see Jonathan has marked their original location with blue painters tape to ensure they go back in the proper location. Now Jonathan, walk them through removing the cowl vent grille.

Jonathan: It’s really simple Jeff. You have six screws that hold the cowl vent to the cowl panel itself. Once you get those removed you can pop it up. You will have your windshield washer nozzle hose and then you can remove the actual windshield washer nozzle and transfer it to the new cowl vent panel. This is one of the main reasons we are replacing the cowl vent panel because they are broke. The other two problems you find are they are fading and chipping. Let’s go ahead and get this removed Jeff.

Jeff: Alright looks like Jonathan got the cowl vent off. The Next step is to remove the lower windshield moldings. Now Jonathan it looks like these are held down by the side moldings. Is this the tool you need to remove the mustang side windshield moldings?

Jonathan: That is the correct tool. It is the Mustang window reveal molding tool. These side moldings are held to the body by three to four spring loaded clips per side. To remove them you lift up slightly on the side of the molding and slide the hook on the tool until you find the clip. Then engage the clip, pull out and you will hear the clip pop. Repeat that on the remaining clips. If you don’t have one of these tools you can purchase one on our website. We keep them in stock. Once you get that molding loose it will break free just like that. As you can see one of the tabs on the lower moldings is already broken off. Yours will probably be the same way. It not it might be by the time you get it removed. Basically you will want to start by removing this front side by pulling up and it will come loose. If you have a broken tab you can just grab a set of needle nose pillars to grab that broken tab and pull it out. Your good to go.

Jonathan: To install the new lower windshield moldings. Insert the upper tab into the side windshield molding. Then simply snap the side molding into place. Then engage to two lower tabs and push them into place. Jeff can you grab the new cowl grille

Jeff: Certainly Jonathan. Now before I go install this it looks like we are missing a tab over there.

Jonathan: yeah the insert is missing on this Mustang. The installation is really simple they just push into place. I you are missing any or have broken inserts simply fold them up and push them through to remove them. Then you can snap the new ones in place – really simple. Now when you are putting this in you definitely don’t want to forget to reconnect your windshield washer nozzle hose.

Jeff: Now I can already tell a major difference compared to that old faded and broken cowl vent we had before.

Jonathan: Now it is amazing how just a few parts can really improve the looks of the exterior of your Mustang.

Jeff: The last step to finish up this project is to install the windshield wipers. For more Mustang install and tech tips check out LatemodelRestoration.com

This is a door to body and trunk/hatchback weatherstrip kit for your 1979-1993 Mustang Coupe or Hatchback. This kit is made from high quality rubber weatherstrip and is made just like the factory components. Quick and easy installation!

* Some trimming may be needed, weatherstrip is shipped a little longer than the originals to ensure a proper installation.

Benefits & Features:

Replaces Old And Worn Out Weatherstrip

High Quality Rubber Weatherstrip

Easy Installation

Transcript

[MUSIC PLAYING]

JONATHAN: Hey, everyone. J-Mac with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, we're here with Jeff, and we're going to be talking about weatherstripping for your '79 to '93 Mustang. Now, Jeff, what do we have in front of us here?

JEFF: Sure thing, J-Mac. Now, what we have here is the genuine 5.0 Resto brand door-to-body and trunk hatch weatherstrip kit. Each piece of this kit is available individually and in multiple other kits. Jonathan, how does this weatherstrip compare to the original?

JONATHAN: Man, it's very comparable to the original because it follows the exact same profiles, has the same attaching method, and it's even made out of the same material.

JEFF: All right. Now, the weatherstripping, does it only fit the coupe and hatchback?

JONATHAN: No way, Jeff. This will fit any '79 to '93 Mustang coupe, hatchback, convertible, or t-top. You just have to trim it to fit your application.

JEFF: All right, man. Appreciate the information. Let's go get this on the couple.

JONATHAN: All right, man. Let's do it. Now, to gain access to your door-to-body weatherstrip, you're going to want to start by removing this metal trim that runs in-between your A-pillar trim and your quarter trim panel. It's held in with two retaining clips. Simply pop it free. Once it's loose, you've got a single Phillips head screw at the back of you're A-pillar trim, and a single Phillips head screw at the front of your quarter panel trim.

Now, if you're tabs are broken like these, you really don't have to worry about removing those screws. But if you're tabs are still intact, definitely remove the screws. Your speaker grill is held in place with a single seven millimeter screw and a couple of clips. Remove that screw, pop the clips loose, and the speaker grill comes free. Then remove the lower Phillips head screw, and the Phillips head screw right above it in your A-pillar trim, and you can pull it back just off the weatherstrip. You don't have to fully remove it.

Then you can come down here to your scuff plate. You've got four Phillips head screws holding it on. Remove the scuff plate, then come up to your kick panel. You've got a single push pin at the front, and then there's a push pin on the back. You can pull it free and the kick panel comes loose.

And then you can move back here to your quarter trim panel, remove the plastic cover off the seat belt anchor, and then take a T50 Torx bit and remove the belt anchor bolt. Then grab your Phillips head screwdriver again. You've got a single Phillips head screw up here, and then two more Phillips head screws along the lower edge. Pull that quarter trim panel free of the weatherstrip, and you don't have to fully remove the panel. Once that's done, you can remove the weatherstrip off the pinch weld. I'm going to ahead and finish taking all this stuff loose.

Now, with all of your panels out of the way, you can go ahead and remove your door-to-body weatherstrip. And real quickly, I wanted to point out why it is you typically have to replace the weatherstrip. That's because it's all torn down here at the bottom, causing air leaks. Now, sometimes you'll see that tearing or maybe even some dry rot up at the top, and that also causes water leaks. To remove your weatherstrip, make note of where you're seam starts at, and then you can pick up on the weather stripping, and simply remove it all from the pitch weld, all the way around the doorway.

And with that old weather strip out the way, we can go ahead and start installing our new weatherstrip. Put the leading edge right where you're old seam was at and slide it down over the pinch weld. Then you can grab you a dead blow hammer, or maybe even a rubber mallet, just something that will help you seat that weatherstrip on the pinch weld, and then help you transition the corners. Working your way up the back of the pinch weld until you get up here to the corner, and this corner is typically where everybody has trouble. You end up getting a crease whenever you make this seam.

Now, if you take your time, fully seat the weatherstrip on the pinch weld and stretch it a little bit as you're making the transition through the corner, you won't end up with that crease. Just like that. Once you make that corner, then go ahead and finish pulling it around the pinch weld, and then we'll come back down to the bottom and make the final cut. That way our seam is correct.

Once you get your weatherstrip fully seated on the pinch weld around the door opening, you're going to find yourself back down here at the seam. Now, just go ahead and take your thumb and make a quick little mark, and leaving yourself a little bit extra slack than you think you might need. Then grab you a pair of hose cutters or trim molding cutters to make your cut in the weatherstrip. Once you make your cut in the weatherstrip, you can tuck that seam down into place and fully seat it on the pinch weld.

All right. I've got this all put back together. Now, Jeff is going to show you how to replace your trunk weatherstrip.

JEFF: The removal and installation of the trunk hatch weatherstripping is extremely easy. To start the removal, you simply pull the weatherstripping off the pinch weld. Continue to work the weatherstripping along the pinch weld until you remove it all. Now, our weatherstrip showed some sign of damage and wear. It's this kind of damage that actually leads to water intrusion in your trunk and hatch.

With the old weatherstrip removed, you can toss it aside and begin the installation. Start at the original seam point. Make sure the leading edge of the weatherstripping is facing out, and firmly press it down on the pinch weld. Now, this same piece of weatherstripping will fit your coupe, your hatch, or your convertible. Just like the door-to-body, you do have to trim it to fit. This installation is finished up.

Video: 87-93 Mustang Roof Rail Molding Install

Roof rail moldings are the rubber/metal trim pieces that run from the front edge of the 1/4 windows, along the roof pinchwelds, and down the a-pillars on hardtop (hatchback & coupe) Mustangs. Years of abuse from the sun and elements will cause them to become faded and cracked.

Transcript

[MUSIC PLAYING]

Hi, I'm Jeff.

And I'm Jonathan. We're with latemodelrestoration.com. Today we're going to be talking about exterior trim and molding for your '87 to '93 Mustang. Jeff, tell us what you have in front of you.

Yeah, Jonathan, here we've got the outer door belt moldings. These are an exact reproduction part for Fox Mustangs. When replacing these, we always like to replace the outer door belt weatherstripping. It's easy to access with the molding removed. Now the molding also comes with hardware that I see in front of you.

Right, the hardware included with outer door belt molding is the round disc-type retainers that are used on '88 to '93 Mustangs. These can also be used on your '87 with the square-type retainers as long as you drill new holes and rivet these new ones in place. Also included in that hardware kit is a new retaining screw.

Now the last part we're going to be working with today is the roof rail molding. It is an exact reproduction of the original. Has OE-type retaining clips and has the correct sealer on the inside. However, these do not include new hardware, so please retain your original screws.

All right, Jonathan, let's move back to the red coupe and get these installed.

Let's do it.

Removing the outer door belt molding is simple. The first step is to remove the Phillips screw located on the outer edge of the door. With that screw removed, the door belt molding should simply slide out of place. Now Jonathan's going to walk you through the installation of a new door belt molding.

Thanks, Jeff. Before we get started with that, I want to talk about the retainers. If yours are broken or missing, all you have to do is drill out the retaining rivets, grab your new retainers, and pop in some new rivets. We'd also talked about replacing the outer door belt weatherstrip at the same time. That's held in by just a couple rivets. Again, drill those out and pop some new rivets in your new weatherstrip.

Your new door belt molding has the recesses to go over the retainers just like the original. To put it back on, all you do is reverse the removal procedure. Slide it on, slide it forward, and put your screw back in.

Now we're going to remove the roof rail molding. It's almost as easy as the outer door belt molding, just a little messier. All you've got is a single screw located down here. Once you get it out of the way, you can start pulling it off the pinch weld and work your way around the top. Be kind of careful not to get any of that black goo on you. Once you get back here to the quarter window, make sure to be careful not to tear off your little tab there.

Clean the pinch weld area well with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. With the pinch weld's clean, you can now start the installation of your roof rail molding. Before starting, make sure you align the quarter window tab with the rear of the molding. Now you're going to want to firmly press the roof rail molding into place. With that, make sure that you tighten up the screw, and you're done.

For more tech tips and install videos, make sure you check out latemodelrestoration.com.

This is Fox Body Mustang run channel weatherstrip for the driver & passenger side of your 1979-1993 Mustang coupe and hatchback. This weatherstrip runs in the inside of the door frame in which the door glass rolls up into. It typically cracks in the upper corner and can cause wind noise & water leaks.

These Mustang Run Channel Liners are constructed from OE type materials & feature the correct felt where the glass makes contact. They offer a direct fit installation, no modification necessary!

Hi. I'm Jeff at latemodelrestoration.com. Today, I'm here with Jonathan, and we're going to show you how to install run channel liners on your '79 to '93 Fox Mustang. Now, Jonathan, these are usually rotted out. Can you tell me more about the replacement parts?

Sure thing, Jeff. Our genuine 50Resto brand replacement run channel liners are made from OE type rubber and have the correct felt bonded to the inside. Typically, why you have to replace these is because the 90 degree in the upper corner of the door frame is completely gone. The rest of the weather strip is dried up and is cracking away. But the number one problem is the felt lining wears away, exposing bare rubber and causes the window glass to bind when it goes up and down.

All right. Sounds good, Jonathan. How about we got these on the car?

Sounds good, man. Let's do it. As you can see, we've already got the door panel out of the way. If you need more help with that, check out our YouTube channel and pull up our Door Panel Removal video.

All right, J-Mac. Now, what tools are required for this install?

Man, just a couple of sockets. You'll want to grab a 11/32 socket and a 7/16 socket.

All right. Sounds good. I'm going to get my tools and get started on the other side.

All right, man. Now, to get started, you'll want to loosen these two nuts right here that hold on the outer mirror. Now, the reason you want to do that is so you can get the weather strip out from behind that mirror. Next thing you want to do, run channel bracket, it has two bolts, one at the top, one at the bottom. You want to fully remove those bolts so you can get the weather strip away from the glass and out of the bracket.

Once that's done, you can go ahead and start pulling down your weather strip and pull it all the way out of the channel and out of the door. As you can see, we've already got the run channel out of the door frame and out of that back corner of the door. That's pretty much the easy part. Only gets mildly more complicated when you get over to the front. All you got to do is reach in, slide this bracket off of the glass, and pull out the rest of the weather strip.

As you can see, we've already got our run channel weather strip started into place. But before you do that, it's a great time to replace your window guide bushings. For more info on that check, out our YouTube channel and pull up our Window Guide Bushing Install video.

For the weather strip, I like to start in this top corner because everything else will center off of that, and work your way down the back of the door frame and then along the top of the channel until you get down to your mirror. A simple paint stir stick is going to be an invaluable tool when installing this because it allows you to slide up in the weather strip and fully engage it into the door frame, and you can just work your way around until you get down to the mirror.

And I brought along another weather strip to show you how that's going to go because you want to tuck the long tail of this weather strip down into the door, around the door glass, and then engage your metal guide channel. Now, it'll look a little something like this. The felt part of the weather strip folds around the glass, and then the metal channel just slides on over the back of the weather strip. Bolt it into place loosely, and then you're ready for final adjustment.

All right, J-Mac, looks like we're down to the final steps. Can you walk us through them?

Absolutely, Jeff. Now, don't forget to tighten up your mirror, and then we're going to move on to the adjustments. These two bolts are going to be loose. This nut needs to be loose up here. One on the bottom can stay tight, no adjustment there.

Then you'll want to loosen up this bolt here that holds on the rear guide. Bump your window up to a point to where you can get to this bolt on the guide bushing bracket. You'll want to loosen that. That way those guide bushings realign themselves on the rod. Then you can finish rolling the window up into place and get it seated in the weather strip. Now, you'll probably have to help it out, so manually push it on up into the channel. Now, Jeff, does everything look good on your side?

Yeah, it looks great.

All right. Now, with that window fully seated in there, you can tighten everything up. On this rear guide, just barely get it in place on the glass. Not a whole lot of pressure, just barely touching it. Tighten that bolt down. With everything up, you can tighten this nut here.

Then on your front channel, push it in slightly to make sure it's engaged with the glass. Not too much pressure, just barely in contact. Tighten up your top bolt. Then tighten up your bottom bolt. Come back in, tighten up your window guide and test it for proper operation. Jeff, everything look good out there? Because it looks good over here.

It looks like it's sealed up perfect over here.

All right, man. Well, we have completely gone through this door, new window motors, new door lock actuators, new guide bushings, and a new run channel weather strip.

Now, for more videos, make sure you check out our YouTube channel and latemodelrestoration.com.

Will it work for a convertible Asked by Wesley B. from Manahawkin | September 23, 2014 | Comment00

Best Answer:This weatherstrip kit is designed for hardtop models only. Give our sale team a call and they can get you squared away with a kit tailored to your convertible needs.Answered by Scott G.from hewitt | September 23, 2014 | Comment00

Will it work for a convertible Asked by Wesley B. from Manahawkin | September 23, 2014 | Comment00

Best Answer:This kit is designed for Hard Top cars. Please give our sales team a call and they can put you a kit together tailored to your convertible needsAnswered by Scott G.from hewitt | September 24, 2014 | Comment00

Vehicle Applications

About This Brand

50resto - Dedicated To The Preservation Of The Fox Body Mustang
50resto is your trusted source for 1979-93 Mustang Foxbody restoration products. Buy 50resto products from Latemodel Restoration Supply and receive the best value, quality and industry-leading customer service. Whether you need Fox Body Mustang weatherstrip, headlights, taillights, seals, body panels, hardware, door handles, trim parts, carpeting or upholstery, 50resto is the brand you should demand.
SVE and 50resto Warranty
One Year Hassle Free Replacement
SVE and 50resto products are warranted to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. What does this warranty cover? YOU! That’s right, whether you ordered a SVE brand Mach I grille delete or a 50resto brand light kit, if your product fails within a year of your purchase we got your back! Some conditions will apply.

Testimonial: Delivery to the mailman

Working in a customer service oriented job I can truly appreciate minute by minute notifications and incredible customer service. I am building my seventh fox and have dealt with every known distributor on the planet and LMR is by far the most efficient and thorough company I have dealt with.(twisted wedge top end kit and supporting equipment project starting this week)

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