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Topic Review (Newest First)

04-28-2013 10:10 PM

KyleG

Yeah, Gear driven. And became I like them.lol And I was using a phone Didn't have away of setting it up to get the truck in the shot. I was in a hurry

04-28-2013 12:12 PM

spinn

It wasn't the tractor?

04-28-2013 10:58 AM

vinniekq2

looks like an ant in the fore ground? He didnt stick around and was out of focus.Should have panned the camera over the car? and what Dave said?is it gear driven,if so,why?

04-28-2013 08:28 AM

bygddy

Is that a gear drive I hear?

04-26-2013 09:22 PM

KyleG

A video I took of it today

04-26-2013 09:19 PM

KyleG

It is amazing what new wires, cap and rotor button can do! Fixed the problem lol It spins just fine now, runs way smoother, everything you would want in a motor.

When I bought my carb spacer, it came with a open bore insert and a 4 bore insert. I suppose that is how you refer to it? Well I am running the open bore atm, would the other make a difference?

04-18-2013 11:20 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by tresi

I missed the part about having 4.11's. That's plenty of gear but having a stall speed 1000 RPM lower that you torque curve takes off is killing you. Big cams with basically stock heads make for a real narrow spikey torque curve. A wide flat curve is what's gets it done on the street. You will quickly come to hate a really loose converter on the street. Swapping to a 3 speed manual is not going to be much of an improvement. 3 speeds are going to like a flat torque curve also. You'll be able to spin your tires a bit due to the energy stored in the flywheel when you dump the clutch but when the tires hook it will pull the motor down. Expect excessive RPM drop on shifts too.

And has there ever been a strong 3spd stick even made? And if so would it not be built back when christ was a cowboy?
Your machinist may be a pure genius, but the motors together now, so he isn't relivant anymore.
Start at the basics, remove Carb, set transfer slots, set float levels, confirm fuel pressure, verify tdc, lock the timing, and see what you have, the converter sucks for your cam but it should still idle okish and tear the tires off at will. As for your switch, its dead simple, like a monkey could do it, so don't fear that. Make sure you have or make a starter brace. These changes alone will likely help mileage, drivability and power. What are you waiting for?

04-18-2013 11:02 PM

tresi

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleG

How much lower of a gear are we talking? Its already 4.11 lol At 55 I'm turning 3000..

Also, the floats were a little out of adjustment. Fixed that which smoothed it out some. Picked up power there actuallyGot feeling around more, and time to start calling me a stupid kid lol #7 plug wire wasn't popped all the way on.. The metal clamp on the inside of the 90 has pretty much burnt up.. It was still getting fire, but not much I bet.. Got new wires, cap and a button. Putting that on tomorrow. Still no timing tape though. No one carries the stuff..

My mind is so confused on some things.. May be doing a 3 speed, straight shift swap here soon.. So that will fix the converter issue. And as for the cam.. we'll see if the tires spin tomorrow after everything. Hoping so lol I'll keep you guys posted.

And I dont really want to lock up the distributor, because the switch will have to be put in so it'll start and what not.. And, I don't do good with wiring. The reason I have no choke, radio, manual pump, etc. I like simple.

I missed the part about having 4.11's. That's plenty of gear but having a stall speed 1000 RPM lower that you torque curve takes off is killing you. Big cams with basically stock heads make for a real narrow spikey torque curve. A wide flat curve is what's gets it done on the street. You will quickly come to hate a really loose converter on the street. Swapping to a 3 speed manual is not going to be much of an improvement. 3 speeds are going to like a flat torque curve also. You'll be able to spin your tires a bit due to the energy stored in the flywheel when you dump the clutch but when the tires hook it will pull the motor down. Expect excessive RPM drop on shifts too.

04-18-2013 09:55 PM

techinspector1

Quote:

Originally Posted by WICruiser

Degrees are not diameter dependent. Measure the circumference (length around the damper) and divide by 10 . Measure from TDC that amount and mark it 36 degrees.

Unbelievably simple and accurate. DUH, why did I not know this?????

04-18-2013 09:37 PM

vinniekq2

rofl

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearheadslife

???? small block chevy has at least 3 different dia balancers..
what ones that math for? the 6 7 or 8 "

1/10 is 36º on any size balancer

04-18-2013 09:27 PM

Valkyrie5.7

Quote:

Originally Posted by WICruiser

Degrees are not diameter dependent. Measure the circumference (length around the damper) and divide by 10 . Measure from TDC that amount and mark it 36 degrees.

Looks like I was slow on the draw, again.

04-18-2013 09:26 PM

Valkyrie5.7

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearheadslife

???? small block chevy has at least 3 different dia balancers..
what ones that math for? the 6 7 or 8 "

Not agreeing or disagreeing with any tips given here but:

36 is still a tenth of 360 no matter how big the balancer is.

04-18-2013 09:17 PM

WICruiser

Degrees are not diameter dependent. Measure the circumference (length around the damper) and divide by 10 . Measure from TDC that amount and mark it 36 degrees.

04-18-2013 09:09 PM

KyleG

How much lower of a gear are we talking? Its already 4.11 lol At 55 I'm turning 3000..

Also, the floats were a little out of adjustment. Fixed that which smoothed it out some. Picked up power there actuallyGot feeling around more, and time to start calling me a stupid kid lol #7 plug wire wasn't popped all the way on.. The metal clamp on the inside of the 90 has pretty much burnt up.. It was still getting fire, but not much I bet.. Got new wires, cap and a button. Putting that on tomorrow. Still no timing tape though. No one carries the stuff..

My mind is so confused on some things.. May be doing a 3 speed, straight shift swap here soon.. So that will fix the converter issue. And as for the cam.. we'll see if the tires spin tomorrow after everything. Hoping so lol I'll keep you guys posted.

And I dont really want to lock up the distributor, because the switch will have to be put in so it'll start and what not.. And, I don't do good with wiring. The reason I have no choke, radio, manual pump, etc. I like simple.

04-18-2013 07:20 PM

tresi

Here's another vote for a smaller cam. Even if you changed the convertor and gear you're still low on compression for the cam you have. You don't have this best manifold but it's minor compared to your cam problem. A swap to Comp 268HE cam or you favorite brand of bargin brand clone cam ( elgin, speed pro, melling, woverine, ect) and you'll think you have a different motor.

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