Hama

My next goal, after Palmyra, was to see the 12th century Crac des Chevaliers between
Homs and Tartus on the coast. Homs does not have much choice of accomodations so I
came directly to Hama which is an attractive town halfway between Damascus and Aleppo.

This is the City Hall.

Hama

The clock tower, next to the City Hall, marks the centre of Hama. I stayed in the
nearby Cairo hotel where I had a large room with bath for only 7 dollars.

Hama

It was raining when I got to Hama but I took pictures of the nearby market anyway.

Hama

I did not see any other strangers in Hama a week before the onset of the war on Iraq.

I was shocked by the idea of an illegal American aggression but the people here went about
their business normally and did not appear upset by what was obviously going to happen.

This aparent calm surprised me at first until I realised that I was expecting more
from "civilised" America than they were after seeing US support for
Israeli excesses in the region. The sight of a rattlesnake frightens but it does not shock,
everyone expects rattlesnakes to strike.

Hama

Anyway, everyone was quite nice to me. This merchant and his sons gladly posed for me.

Hama

The Orontes river, whose source is near Baalbek in Lebanon, traverses Hama, flows
north to Antakya in Turkey and then west into the Mediterranean. It irrigates much
of Syria's fertile plains.

The first of these giant water wheels, or norias, were built by the Romans. Others
were added later and almost 100 are still carefully maintained after centuries of
use to irrigate fields around the Orontes.

Norias have names and personalities. These two, in the city centre, are called
Al-Jisriyye and Al-Mamouriyye.

Hama

Here is another view of Al-Mamouriyye. The huge wooden axles groan and moan continuously
as they turn in their wooden bearings. Their perpetual song adds a unique charm to the city.