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Topic: Wedges Goose guts (Read 676 times)

Iíve ordered several different guts from a few different suppliers. Depending on the tolerance to 5/8 for bore. I find one set of guts may too small, one too big and one just right (Goldilocks syndrome). Iím experimenting with making my own wedges so I can use any set of guts, if too tight I can sand the wedge that came with the guts, but donít want to alter the wedge unless that set of guts is going to give me the sound I want in a specific call. What methods does the experienced call builder use in fitting guts?

Well, no responses... yikes, is this forum still active or is the answer to my question so obvious no one will respond. What im doing now is Iíve made some long wedges tapered approx 1.5 degrees. Set them in the insert and cut them off front and back to get a good length. Right now the wedges are birch with CA. I will order some Delrin soon to make them.

Lagrue, I havenít yet begun to fabricate my own guts, but am modifying purchased ones, everything else on the calls is from my own hands. Ben, I Have a few duck inserts that Iíve been working on, not quite what I want yet. Soaked one in Tung Oil, spar and turpentine, waiting for it to dry before I continue to tune it. I figure it was best to get some finish on the wood, before completing the tuning.

Personally I do not put finish on a tone board. At most maybe some boiled linseed oil and let it completely dry and a light sand on it to take the fuzz off and this would be on more soft or porous wood as the more dense wood or any oily wood does not need it. I think a finish creates more problem than it helps.

S, from what I'm understanding you are wanting a wedge that will fit ALL guts on the market. The issue with one wedge is not the distance between the flat surface and the outside radius, but rather the starting diameter of the wedge itself. As you stated, guts come in different diameters. If you make the wedge in a .615" diameter and try to match it with a gut that is .625" you will end up with a small gap around the sides of the wedge. That dead air will require you to use more air to start the reed vibration. It also only holds the gut in the gutsert with the top surface of the wedge rather than the entire outside surface of the wedge. There is, in my opinion, a higher chance of the wedge slipping or falling out. If you make different diameter wedges for each diameter gut you will probably be more successful. I applaud you for experimenting with the guts to try to find the sound you are after. One other thing to remember, how far the gut seats into the gutsert will change how the call sounds and operates. It's been said on here countless times, but whoever coined the phrase is right on - Everything affects everything. Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.

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Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men Col 3:23

Yes, am wondering what others do when fitting various guts. In some cases the wedge is not big enough to hold the reed. Iíve added a piece of tape to the wedge as a temporary measure. But I think having a few extra wedges that are long enough that they can be cut to length after ďwedging them in placeĒ makes sense. Instead of building the tone board and wedge, in this case building only the wedge. Iím not convinced that the difference between .625 and .610 wedges will contribute to noticeable differences in running a short reed goose call.