Orlando and the theme parks

Encompassing a broad and fertile expanse between the east and west coasts, most of Central Florida was farming and ranching country when vacation-mania first hit the state’s coastal strips. From the 1970s on, this tranquil picture was shattered: no section of the state has been affected more dramatically by modern tourism. A clutter of highway interchanges, motels and billboards now arch around the sprawling city of ORLANDO, which welcomes more visitors than any other place in the state. The reason, of course, is Walt Disney World, the biggest and cleverest theme-park complex ever created, along with Universal Orlando and a host of other attractions, though the downtown area still holds the city’s best nightlife.

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Walt Disney World

As significant as air conditioning in making the state what it is today, WALT DISNEY WORLD turned a wedge of Florida farmland into one of the world’s most lucrative holiday destinations. The immense and astutely planned empire also pushed the state’s media profile through the roof: from being a down-at-heel mix of cheap motels, retirement homes and alligator zoos, Florida became a showcase of modern international tourism overnight.

Disney World is the pacesetter among theme parks. It goes way beyond Disneyland – which opened in Anaheim, California, in 1955 – delivering escapism at its most technologically advanced and psychologically brilliant, across an area twice the size of Manhattan. Its four main theme parks are quite separate entities and, ideally, you should allow at least a full day for each. The Magic Kingdom is the Disney park of popular imagination, where Mickey mingles with the crowds – very much the park for kids, though at its high-tech best capable of captivating even the most jaded adult. Known for its giant, golfball-like geosphere, Epcot is Disney’s celebration of science, technology and world cultures; this sprawling area involves a lot of walking, and young children may grow restless. The smaller Disney’s Hollywood Studios takes its inspiration from movies, TV and music, offering some good thrill rides and live shows that will appeal to all ages. The newest of the four, Disney’s Animal Kingdom Park, brings all manner of African and Asian wildlife to the theme-park setting.

Along with the main parks, other forms of entertainment have been created to keep people on Disney property for as long as possible. There are two excellent water parks, Blizzard Beach and Typhoon Lagoon, a sports complex called Disney’s Wide World of Sports and Downtown Disney, where you can eat, drink and shop to your heart’s content.

Universal Orlando

For some years, it seemed that TV and film production would move away from California to Florida, which, with its lower taxes and cheaper labour, was more amenable. The opening of Universal Studios in 1990 appeared to confirm that trend. So far, though, for various reasons, Florida has not proved to be a fully realistic alternative. Even so, this hasn’t stopped the Universal Studios enclave here, known as Universal Orlando, from becoming a major player in the Orlando theme-park arena. Though Disney World still commands the lion’s share of attention, Universal has siphoned off many visitors with its high-tech movie-themed attractions and the excellent thrill rides at Islands of Adventure. And with all the nightclubs at Disney now closed, CityWalk has become the main competition to downtown Orlando for nightlife dollars . Furthermore, Universal has achieved fully fledged resort status with its three luxurious on-site hotels.

Disney’s Animal Kingdom Park

An animal-conservation theme park with Disney’s patented over-the-top twist, Disney’s Animal Kingdom Park was opened in 1998. The park, home to 250 species and some 1700 animals, is divided into seven “lands” – Africa, Asia, Discovery Island, Oasis, Camp Minnie-Mickey, DinoLand U.S.A. and Rafiki’s Planet Watch – with Africa and Asia being the most visually impressive, each re-creating the natural landscapes and exotic atmosphere of these two continents with admirable attention to detail.

The best-realized attraction is Africa’s Kilimanjaro Safaris, where a jeep takes you on what feels very much like a real African safari, to view giraffes, zebras, elephants, lions, gazelles and rhinos, as well as take part in anti-poacher manoeuvres. Elsewhere in Africa, the troop of lowland gorillas at the Pangani Forest Exploration Trail are definitely worth a look. Crossing over to Asia, you’ll get an astounding up-close look at the healthiest-looking tigers in captivity at the Maharajah Jungle Trek. DinoLand U.S.A.’s Dinosaur is a slower but still exciting ride full of small drops and short stops in the dark while scary dinosaurs pop out of nowhere.

The World of Walt Disney

When the brilliant illustrator and animator Walt Disney devised the world’s first theme park, California’s Disneyland, he left himself with no control over the hotels and restaurants that quickly engulfed it, preventing growth and erasing profits Disney felt were rightly his. Determined not to let that happen again, the Disney corporation secretly bought up 27,500 acres of central Florida farmland, acquiring by the late 1960s a site a hundred times bigger than Disneyland. With the promise of a jobs bonanza for Florida, the state legislature gave the corporation the rights of any major municipality (via a special jurisdiction called the Reedy Creek Improvement District), empowering it to lay roads, enact building codes and enforce the law with its own security force.

Walt Disney World’s first “land”, the Magic Kingdom, opened in 1971, and was a huge success. Unveiled in 1982, the far more ambitious Epcot represented the first major break from cartoon- based escapism – but its rose-tinted look at the future received a mixed response at the time. Partly due to this, and to some bad management decisions, the Disney empire (Disney himself died in 1966) faced bankruptcy by the mid-1980s. Since then, the corporation has sprung back from the abyss, and steers a tight and competitive ship that encompasses broadcast networks, publishing and movies – as well as a substantial merchandising arm. It may trade in fantasy, but when it comes to money, the Disney Corporation deals in the real world.

Accommodation

If you’re on a budget, or want to spend time visiting the other parks, you’d do best to stay outside Walt Disney World. The chain hotels on International Drive are close to universal orlando and seaWorld orlando, with numerous restaurants and shops within walking distance. Plenty of hotels are dotted around disney property in an area called Lake Buena Vista, while budget hotels – and even a hostel – line Hwy-­192 (also close to disney). Downtown Orlando has a handful of charming, privately run hotels and B&Bs.

Eating

The pick of the locals’ eating haunts are downtown and around; most visitors, however, head for International Drive’s inexpensive all-day buffets and gourmet restaurants. you are not allowed to take food into any of the theme parks, where the best restaurants are in Epcot’s World Showcase – particularly the French- and Mexican-themed establishments.

Nightlife and entertainment

The closure of the nightclubs at Disney’s shopping and entertainment complex, Downtown Disney, several years ago means that orlando’s nightspots are now concentrated in two main areas, each with a quite different atmosphere. Citywalk, part of universal orlando (6000 universal Blvd; citywalkorlando.com), consists of thirty acres of restaurants, dance clubs and shops wedged between universal studios and islands of adventure. away from the theme parks, downtown Orlando has a large, eclectic and much more appealing crop of bars, lounges and clubs. most of the after-dark action happens along orange avenue.