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One of the frustrations of restaurant reviewing is that time, budgetary and caloric constraints make it impossible to taste -- and write about -- every delicious-sounding thing on any given menu.

At zpizza, the problem is particularly acute. It may be a chain restaurant, but the menu bears no resemblance to the pizza chains you're used to. Ingredients are upscale, often vegetarian-friendly and even, in the case of the tomato sauce, certified organic.

(I've never seen a television ad for zpizza, but if one exists, there's little chance it features bulky, crewcut guys in football jerseys.)

The artisan style pizzas alone could keep a foodie busy for days. The Tuscan mushroom features roasted garlic sauce, cremini, shiitake and button mushrooms, caramelized onions, fresh thyme and -- get this -- truffle oil on a crisp but tender thin crust (a wheat crust is also available). It's a lovely combination of flavors that encourages slow savoring rather than the gulp-in-bulk approach inspired by lesser pies.

Other compelling combinations (there are 15 in all) include a Moroccan pizza with pesto, roasted eggplant, feta and pine nuts; the Mexican with spicy lime chicken, red onions, avocado, cilantro and salsa; and the Santa Fe, featuring chipotle pesto, chicken sausage, corn and serrano chilis. (Malcontents can also create their own combos.)

I would be remiss in not mentioning the salad pizzas, three combinations that are essentially cooked pizza with salad plopped on top. Sounds weird, and I didn't get to taste one, but the roasted sweet potato, caramelized onion and feta pizza topped with arugula salad looks luscious. I did taste the salad separately (it comes with caramelized onions, shaved Parmesan, cucumbers and roasted candied walnuts), and it was as good as anything you'll find in the better restaurants around town.

If pizza's not your thing, the menu also offers calzones, hot and cold subs, a variety of sandwiches and salads. There's even an apple pie pizza for dessert featuring roasted Fujis and mascarpone.

But for all this yumminess, zpizza does suffer a bit from chintzy service. The counter help is friendly enough, but for those dining in, the utensils are plastic and the plates are paper (and not the sturdy kind either; my guest and I split a salad and the dressing soaked right through).

You'll box your own leftovers and get your own drinks.

And speaking of drinks, the Sparks zpizza doesn't have a liquor license at the moment (the Reno store does), which is a shame. Pizza without beer is just wrong. But I'm told it's red-tape thing that may be unsnarled in the future.

My advice: Until then, grab a growler of your favorite microbrew and enjoy your zpizza at home. They deliver.