Nathan Jenden

In creating his second solo collection, Nathan Jenden drew upon many ideas, including, "Spring, unfurling, the lightness and airiness of insects that fly. And rolling out of bed. I love the idea of waking up after a party in a couture dress." On top of that, his show referenced Victoriana and the French Court. That's more inspiration than one collection can be expected to handle, and today's presentation was somewhat scattered, though not without its winning moments. Bubble-hemmed trenches and poufs didn't do Jendenor his modelsany favors. He was on surer footing with pieces that displayed his tailoring skills and knack for intriguing details. The Diane von Furstenberg creative director cut beautiful, hand-painted silks into some sharp jackets. And two great "tuxedos," one in crushed leather, the other in cashmere jersey, were worth getting out of bed for.