Im looking for lots and lots of recommendations as I am looking to buy a bus within the next month or to. So far the Thomas built, flat nose, rear engine has caught my eye. Anyone and everyone feel free to give me your two sense on what you think the best bus for the money would be. My budget is 3000-5000 or so.

I have read that a lot of first timers should consider the standard truck front bus for ease of maint.

I suggest buying the biggest bus you can and can afford. Skip a bus with a handicap lift unless you need it. A lot of guys swear by them for a lot of reasons but, I have seen them take up so much space and be difficult to remove and or sell.

Another big suggestion I have personally is finding an activity bus with below / low body storage. My bus was a standard rig and I would die for some good solid semi-rust free built in below floor storage.

Also, rust is huge. If, I remember correctly your location was Ohio. Check the frame for structural rust, pitted metal, rods, ribs, rub rails, rivets, everything. I bought a rusty bus and had to reskin the entire thing and replace a wheel well and rip out and replace the entire rear wall.

It was a mixed blessing, a ton of extra work but, I was able to get my bus down to the frame and rebuild from scratch. In hindsight, I would have avoided my bus or at least waited and haggled the price more. My bus is a 1998 with under 40k miles.

Check the engine, put the tranny through a nice gentle drive and then hammer it. Red like that bad boy before you buy it, feel the switch in gears, the engine sounds, everything. It is hard to hear most of the time but, you will feel it more than anything. Try not to focus on the cluster, feel and listen.

Tires are important, newer nicer tread the better. My bus had nearly brand new tires on it and I am thankful. Drive tires are about 300 bucks and push tires are about 400 each, with four rear and two front it would have hit my wallet hard to replace a tire or all six.

Another big personal thing are interior screws or rivets. Some buses have rivets inside holding the panels together and others have screws. My bus had screws and I am glad it did, cutting, grinding and busting rivets off is a pain. I was lucky to be able to buy a few bits and just unscrew everything.

Damage is a big one. I have seen a few very nice buses locally, good mileage, good prices, everything was ideal but, there was damage. One of the buses backed into a tree and had a good size dent in the rear roof section and it would need to be replaced if you wanted it to look good again. That is a lot of work.

Learn how to weld if you don't know how. Buy a little AC buzz box welder for a hundred bucks and a auto tint mask for about a hundred bucks and go to town. You will get the hang of it. Stick welders are harder to learn but, in my opinion much better and easier in the long run.

I know that is a lot but, this will be a long term investment and long term project. It is something you will love and something you will hate. You will have it all planned out and boom something comes up and you have no idea what the hell to do. A project you expect to be easy and take half a day will become the hardest four day operation you could imagine. Just take it step by step with love and enjoyment. That is what this is all about, fun and learning.

Good luck and have fun.
You are in for a fun ride and this forum is the best asset ever.

I'd go with an Amtran/ICBus 3000RE. Full size radiator, easy access to both sides of the engine block, all the interior panels held in place with screws (#2 Square Drive), and lots of fresh air cooling. My hindsight would have been finding one with a DT466, an MD2000/3000-series transmission, and an air ride driver's seat.

Ideally Im looking to buy a bus from a southern state so I can hopefully avoid, most, if not all the rust issues. I personally and not the most handy person. I have a friend who is an all around joe can do. Who is both willing to help and teach me everything he knows. Im definitely going to look into the IC 3000re. Either truck nose, or flat nose, for my price range 3000-5000. What are some of your guys' top recommendations? Also, I'm not looking to live in mine. Just looking to road trip the US with friends. Then use it for adventures after that.

love my bus, after i drove a rear engine i stopped looking at front engine buses, no comparison. big honkin motor thats quiet, you can talk to each other and barely hear the motor. i got my rust free bus from N C, it was an activity bus, belly storage, high ceiling,highway geared, 2 ac units that kick butt.if you plan on driving the country, get a rear engine bus.

love my bus, after i drove a rear engine i stopped looking at front engine buses, no comparison. big honkin motor thats quiet, you can talk to each other and barely hear the motor. i got my rust free bus from N C, it was an activity bus, belly storage, high ceiling,highway geared, 2 ac units that kick butt.if you plan on driving the country, get a rear engine bus.

I really want to find a bus with a rear engine, and the under belly storage. Hopefully in my price range. But If i can't find one ill settle for something else.

I just like the look of the flat nose busses better. Thats really only the only reason I want to get one lol. Ive been tossing the idea around of getting a flat nose short bus. I think that would be plenty of room for what I really want to do. I won't be living in mine, just using it for adventuring and road trips.Maybe tailgate too.

I don't see how one is better than the other... It's very subjective, because everyone's needs and expectations are different.
I'm full timing in a 35' bus, and there's a lot to get ready to break camp and go camping somewhere else. It just takes a little planning and a couple hours. Then setup on the other end, and vice versa.

A short bus seems like it would better fit boondocking... Especially if you aren't full timing. Because when I took my bus to state park for a couple weeks, I needed my son to pick me up to get my suburban to the camp ground (at beginning and on the end)... But, I was needing to be at work 50 minutes away everyday.

I don't see how one is better than the other... It's very subjective, because everyone's needs and expectations are different.
I'm full timing in a 35' bus, and there's a lot to get ready to break camp and go camping somewhere else. It just takes a little planning and a couple hours. Then setup on the other end, and vice versa.

A short bus seems like it would better fit boondocking... Especially if you aren't full timing. Because when I took my bus to state park for a couple weeks, I needed my son to pick me up to get my suburban to the camp ground (at beginning and on the end)... But, I was needing to be at work 50 minutes away everyday.

I won't be boondocking per say. Probably a lot of nights spent in a rest stops or parking lots as I'm traveling the states from campground to campground. I want to have enough room for a few friends and I think that can be accomplished with the size of short bus. I probably won't be doing a shower, just a toilet, and no stove just a small sink. Mostly setting area and bed room. I like to do my cooking over an open fire when I'm camping.

For Boondocking it is not the type of bus that matters, it how you set it up. Most buses are about the same height. Some have higher roofs, but that is an option available if ordered for that bus. As I have learned about buses I have found they can be ordered in so many different ways. My bus has Air Brakes, because its mandatory in Washington state. The bus I got for my daughter has Hydraulic brakes, because they are mandatory in Idaho. I had a long talk with the manager of the bus barn in Idaho about how they order and spec out the buses they get. They get base model, no extras and Hyd. brakes. My bus has sanders, Air brakes, belly storage and wood under the floor, hers has non of that.
If you want to boondock, think composting toilets, solar panels, large fresh water tanks, LED lights, 12V outlets, large Grey water tank, generator, etc.
RE, FE, Dog Nose, flat nose, all are going to work with each offering something good and bad. You decide.
I would focus more on getting the right engine and trans, and something that will do Hwy speeds. Activity buses are the best for that.

For Boondocking it is not the type of bus that matters, it how you set it up. Most buses are about the same height. Some have higher roofs, but that is an option available if ordered for that bus. As I have learned about buses I have found they can be ordered in so many different ways. My bus has Air Brakes, because its mandatory in Washington state. The bus I got for my daughter has Hydraulic brakes, because they are mandatory in Idaho. I had a long talk with the manager of the bus barn in Idaho about how they order and spec out the buses they get. They get base model, no extras and Hyd. brakes. My bus has sanders, Air brakes, belly storage and wood under the floor, hers has non of that.
If you want to boondock, think composting toilets, solar panels, large fresh water tanks, LED lights, 12V outlets, large Grey water tank, generator, etc.
RE, FE, Dog Nose, flat nose, all are going to work with each offering something good and bad. You decide.
I would focus more on getting the right engine and trans, and something that will do Hwy speeds. Activity buses are the best for that.

What engines and tranny combos would you recommend? Ive seen a lot for people talking highly of the dt466. I think thats what it is. I haven't seen a ton about trannys though.

I won't be boondocking per say. Probably a lot of nights spent in a rest stops or parking lots as I'm traveling the states from campground to campground. I want to have enough room for a few friends and I think that can be accomplished with the size of short bus. I probably won't be doing a shower, just a toilet, and no stove just a small sink. Mostly setting area and bed room. I like to do my cooking over an open fire when I'm camping.