I have one thing that needs adjustment.............the rudder control....

Tuning the rudder for proper alignment is easy and straight forward, however the action on the rudder is very very stiff. When using the front seat rudder control you experience the following: as you move rudder control to starboard you experience some significant resistance. So much so that I was initially concerned range of rudder control was reached but then the rudder "jumps" into an over correction position. It almost seems as if the front rudder control is working against the rear rudder control.

First I suspect the control lines are too tight. Try loosening a bit. That should solve the stiff steering issues. Then use a digital camera inside the hull to look around at the function. You may be able to find the lines hanging up on something.

Also, make sure you're cleating the rudder down when in use. I know how simple this sounds, but its surprising how many people don't cleat their rudders down. If not cleated down steering becomes a lot harder to operate. You will only notice the difference in the water under sail

I have played with cleating rudder control "tight" and vary degrees of looseness without an noticeable difference in the action of the rudder control. I did notice the quite a difference in rudder command when rudder was not cleated tight in 15 knot winds........lose of rudder command and difficult to maintain a good line. Can't quite be certain as I am looking over my shoulder while sailing...but it appears as if when even a little loose in decent wind the rudder starts to kickup slightly.

Thanks for the feedback!

I will report back after good use of iPhone photos inside hull as Matt suggested.

In some past new 'Islands' we did find knots on both steering lines interfering with each other and sometimes even wrapped around each other. Reach in at each hatch near the steering knobs and the rear and feel for interference.

With my 2014, I have had 3 different causes for stiff rudder control:1) rudder not cleated (which I am fearful of doing in shallow water)2) Daggerboard not down when sailing with significant sideslip. Placing the daggerboard down immediately relieved rudder pressure.3) I once got one of those mesh dive bags caught up in the rudder lines.

I once found someone's tennis shoe tangled in the rudder line, I suspect it was there for quite some time.Several times now I have had rudder pins that were half broken (only broken at the bottom), a shire sign of that is tight steering.Another thing that has caused me problems is the turn buckle on the right side next to the front seat (inside the hull) for the rudder down line. That pulley tends to get all twisted making it difficult to pull the rudder down tight enough (a good sign of this condition is the rudder down lines not retracting completely when you pull the rudder up).When pulling the rudder down and locking it, usually takes more force than most people think, (don't be shy pulling it tight). Once locked down walk back to the back and make sure the rudder is down tight until you get the hang of it.The entire boat can grow and shrink as much as an inch or two depending on outside temp, this requires the rudder lines to need adjustment depending on temps in your area, if the rudder lines are way too tight steering becomes difficult.I have had rudder lines hang up in the flotation foam inside the hull a couple times (near the rear seat).In the rearmost hatch there are clips that the rudder lines go thru (one on each side of the hatch), make sure the steering tubes are tied up against the underside of the deck and not flopping around back there (this also prevents water from coming in the tubes (like a drain trap works).If you find my other tennis shoe in there let me know (lol).Hope this helpsBob

I did find a conflict between rudder up/down control lines( black line) and rudder steering control cabling( white line) inside the hull of course in close proximity to rear rudder control. The conflict is caused by the cross-over line that is there to help prevent the control handle from turning too far. It catches on a knot / Hog ring bungee connection related to the up control system. The simple solution was a sleeve over the rudder up/down line knot/hog ring. I purchased some 3/4"OD clear plastic tubing( about 12 to 14" was needed), sliced tubing longitudinally and place it over the up/down line with knot/hog ring like a sleeve. Steering control cable now slides over top up/down cabling with NO interference.

Boat was in water this past Sunday and steering control worked flawless in 10knot winds from both front and rear seat.

The real key to identifying the problem was iPhone video of cabling inside the hull. I wish I could figure out how to share photos and video. Alas, my technology skills and their development take time away from time on the water!

I found that the line that prevents the handle in the rear seat from over extending was just too short. I couldn't untie it. Those who can or did need to enter some type of Olympic event. I cut the line in the middle. I then took an electrical tie (12") and made a loop. I then had enough line from each side to tie to the loop. After after tying both I tightened the loop to a tension that did not interfere with moving the rudder to the right, which was the the problem I was having. Hopefully this will hold up.

I had to modify my fix as the clear tubing was sliding on the line past the crossover connection and thus my problem returned. Solution also involved electrical zip ties. I relocated the clear tubing back to where it needed to be and zip tied both ends of tubing tight to line. Boat been in the water three times with this fix............knock on wood...........interference problem is gone!

Now for the bad news. I have full starboard rudder and only about 4 degrees of port. Obviously I can't take her out until I figure out what is going on. I will take some pics in a few minutes and post them up. Also seems that when the rudder is dead center the steering handle is off to the port by about 10 degrees or so.