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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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can fix it – let us help. The color combo that would have been featured here, had we not got rained on. As light as the morning precipitation was, a rainsuit seemed silly, and surely jeans and a leather jacket would be enough. However, at the crest of the peninsula, El Nino let his wrath be felt. A full-on downpour of Florida- like proportions dropped from the sky, without the benefit of gulf-stream warmth. Suddenly, wearing geeky-looking Gore-Tex seemed like a very good idea. Riding through six inch deep floodwaters at about 15 mph, the Aero kept a very even keel. The floorboards (first ever on a Honda) kept the feet drier than they would have been otherwise. After a brief stop at a military museum, we headed back to Honda’s HQ for a van ride to lunch at Hollywood’s House of Blues. Detail 101: Witness the huge chrome headlight/speedo assembly, with matching idiot lights set into the triple clamp. We couldn’t form much of a riding impression from our rain-soaked 30 mile jaunt, but we liked what we found. If you’re a big fan of the ACE 750, you’ll be a big fan of the Aero. Although the styling is not ground-breaking, it isn’t a carbon copy of you-know-who (hint: They’re based out of Milwaukee). The detail on the Aero is beautiful, with tasteful chrome accents and well-finished pieces. We hope to get the big 1100 back for a full test against Suzuki’s new Intruder 1500LC, Harley’s new Road King Classic, and all the other cruiser big boys some time this spring, after El Nino goes away … Manufacturer: Honda Model: 1998 Shadow Aero Price (two-tone): $9,995.00 Engine: liquid-cooled 45 degree V-twin, single crank pin Bore and Stroke: 87.5 x 91.4mm Displacement: 1099cc Carburetion: Two 36mm CV Transmission: 5 speed Wheelbase: 66.1 in Seat Height: 28.5 in Fuel Capacity: 4.2 gal with .8 gal reserve Claimed Dry Weight: 623 lbs

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The saddlebag supports are hinged 3 so they can adjust to any variance in your motorcycle’s fender strut bolt locations. The supports have a one-inch offset 4 that angles the supports outward so they space the bags away from the motorcycle’s chassis components, wheels, brakes, and moving parts. Before removing or changing any hardware, hold the supports next to the motorcycle to familiarize yourself with how they will be installed. Remove the original fender mounting bolts from one side of the fender strut and temporarily mount one support with a 10mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the front fender stay bolt hole. Then insert an 8mm bolt, a plastic and steel spacer, and two washers into the rear fender stay bolt hole. Verify that each bolt is the proper length. IMPORTANT: The VT1100 Shadow Classic, Aero, or Sabre models have 10mm (front) and 8mm (rear) threaded holes in the fender strut. Use care to not insert the wrong size mounting bolt in the strut. When installing a bolt into the fender strut, check to be sure that it does not extend inside the fender further than the original fasteners. If it does, the excess length of the bolt must be cut off, or exchanged for a shorter bolt you obtain from the hardware store or a motorcycle shop. After verifying the mounting bolts are the proper length, remove the support from the motorcycle’s fender strut. Install a grommet in each of the large holes 5 on the back side of each saddlebag. Then insert a plastic spacer 6 in each of the grommets TIP: Use soapy water to lubricate the grommets so they will slip into the holes in the bag. The vehicle images in this instruction set may be different than your motorcycle. Continued on next page… 3 Lay a support 7 (with the joint towards the rear of the bag) on the back of a bag. Temporarily put the mounting bolts 8 through the support’s holes and into the plas- tic spacers in the grommets. Place one of the support clips 9 over the center of the lower portion of the support, so the two holes in the clip align with the predrilled holes in the bag. Use the 3/16” screws and nuts from the hardware kit to attach the support clip to the backup plate inside the bag. Place the nuts on the outside of the bag. Do not over- tighten the hardware, as this may cause damage to the saddlebag. Remove the mounting bolts from the support and the plastic spacers

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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Install the right and left brackets, leave screws loose to allow brackets some movement for ease of backrest installation. Install the ackrest as shown, if optional carrier is also purchased, use the longer flange bolts provided. Note the backrest goes inside of the brackets, and carrier rack (optional) will go outside of the brackets when installed. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the torques specified

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1. Drain the fuel into an approved container. 2. Remove the fuel tank using the procedure in the Service Manual. However, do not remove the fuel valve from the fuel tank. 3. Remove the four screws, and diaphragm cover. NOTE: The diaphragm cover is under spring pressure. The countermeasure part has a paint mark near the air vent hole. 4. Replace the diaphragm, spring, cover, and screws with new parts included in the kit. Install the new diaphragm with the plastic retainer facing the diaphragm cover. NOTE: Make sure the air vent hole is facing downward towards the ground. 5. Reinstall the fuel tank using the procedures in the Service Manual. 6. Refill the fuel tank

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Left TurnSignal Right TurnSignal Turn Signal Switch (for ref. Only) CIRCUIT CONNECTIONS AFTER INSTALLATION of Cancellation Unit Original+12 volts motorcycle supply power for flasher Ground (thiswiredoesnot exist on all models) Output to switch Power Power Red Yellow Gray Green Ground Green/Red Blue/Red Turn Signal Cancellation Unit Identify the positive power wire to the turn signal flasher. A test light with the probe touched to this wire will stay on steady and flash with the turn signals. Cut the wire and install the connectors observing the polarity as shown. Connect the Red and Yellow wires as shown. not Identify the flasher output wire to the signal switch and attach the gray wire by soldering or use the supplied red tap connector. Place the unit in a suitable area on your particular motorcycle. It is suggested under the seat providing access to the turn signal flasher. Connect the units ground (green) wire to frame (neg) ground Assure it’sareliable connection. IF THE GROUND WIRE BECOMES DISCONNECTED THE UNIT WILL BURN UP. using the supplied ring terminal. Identify the brake light circuit per the motorcycle wiring diagram. Using a test light verify the correct circuit using the following procedure. Connect the test light alligator clip (negative side) to frame ground. Using the positive tip probe the circuit. The proper circuit will illuminate the the brake is applied. Attach the Green/Red wire to this circuit. test light when The factory cancellation time is set at approximately 23 flashes. The length of time for cancellation can be decreased to approximately 15 counts by setting the program listed in the programming box

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DO NOT REMOVE THE 3 PHILLIP SCREWS ON THE BACK OF THE SPEEDOMETER. This will unscrew the circuit board and the main components inside the speedometer, and possibly damage it. Just leave those 3 screws alone. They won’t make your customization any easier if they are removed. This is the hard part. Turn the speedometer face down on a soft towel on a sturdy table, bench, etc. I used a regular flat screwdriver to do this step. There is a chrome metal ring holding the glass on the speedometer. It is factory sealed. On the bottom side of this ring start prying with a flat screwdriver under the bottom lip of the metal ring. This will be a slow process (patience, patience, patience) so don’t get in a hurry and ruin the wife’s kitchen table like I did. Go around the metal ring with a flat screwdriver prying it up as straight as you can. It’s easier doing this every millimeter or two. I had to do this about 3 times all the way around the ring. After you pry the lip of the ring up all the way around enough to loosen it up considerably, gently pull the ring off of the speedometer. The glass should come off with it. Put the glass with the chrome ring aside for later. You might want to use a soft lint free towel to rest it on