Description

This "older" route is also very much worth a visit. A fixed alu piton marks the start just 2m to the right of Without Despair. The best part of the route IMO is the final headwall pitch. Great moves, great protection where you want it, you'll want to rap down and do it again! I recently climbed this route and absolutely loved the 2nd pitch!

Location

Right side of Severity Buttress between Without Despair and Fata Morgana. Rappel Without Despair or walk off.

Protection

Assortment of Nuts and Camalots, mostly the small sizes. No fixed anchors. Rappel from the flat top via Without Despair with one rope

I'm happy to here that this route is seeing some action. When George and i first climbed it, i thought it was one of the best patina faces i've had the pleasure to caress. The rock at Ibex is really spectacular, and i feel very fortunate to have done some of the early first ascents. The rateing should be 10a it would be 10+ if the second pitch went more directly above the white dihedral.