Old post but people find this stuff all the time when they have the same problem, like I did. If it's the switch it's easy. Just buy a switch, disassemble the door (see youtube) and try the switch. In my case that didn't fix it so I ended up having to get a wiring diagram (searched google images.It's same as 2004) and trace the circuit. Turned out the tan colored wire (+12 to the master window switch) was broken inside the rubber boot between the door and body. Spliced it and all was OK. Don't really see why just one wire out of about 20 would break but that's what happened,

It's easy to explain, really. That line is the ONLY wire feeding all four switches,
hence it'll be the first to burn out under heavier than normal load. Having 2
feed lines share and carry the load together, so even if one burns out, it'll still
work, then eventually burn out.
They should have run a much heavier gauge wire for that feed, but a heavier
wire costs more, harder to bend or flex as the door opens and closes, and
would thus probably burn out faster. Two feeds would have been the best bet.
The same happens if a ground wire goes bad due to being overloaded.
This is also why the battery ground wire is so thick and sometimes they even
run two wires to the chassis.
Poor wiring systems in most cars are done like this to ensure they only last a
specific time period and then require service.

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