If you can install and time a stock ignition and
possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo!
If you never have worked on your ignition, better have it done by someone
who knows.

Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the
conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance
of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and
possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for
loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to,
incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and
maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product,
technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior
notice.

Designated useThis system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic
motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified
aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring
significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly
enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better
function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock
systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine
characteristics it does not increase emission of gaseous pollutants and
noise. In most cases emission of pollutants should even be reduced due to
better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not
normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this
statement is valid for Germany, for other countries, please check locally
against your road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for
use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty
will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired
results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness.

If you have no expertise for the installation have
it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation
may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to
bodily harm.

Before you order a system, please check whether a puller
tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not,
better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc.
Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull
the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other
tools or methods is not covered by warranty.

The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before
assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet
plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued
in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run
the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine,
please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects
such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe
damage.

If you have access to the
Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better
pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at
http://www.powerdynamo.biz

You should have received those parts:

rotor

stator unit

ignition coil / ht-cable

regulator/rectifier (differs from the picture)

blue kill wire

cable binders, screws

To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part-no.:
99 99 799 00 -Not provided!-).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

Make sure your Aspes rests securely on her centre stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good
access to the generator side of the engine. Note that you will install a
12 volts system, so you will either need to replace all lightbulbs to 12
volt ones.

Disconnect the wires from the old dynamo. Pull all wires out of the engine
housing.

Unscrew the old stator and take it off the engine. Pull the rotor off, you
will need a puller screw for this. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You
will not need it anymore. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will
have trouble later on in the assembly.

(Remark: This woodruff key does not
actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply
guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

Unscrew
the stator coil from the base plate and lift it a little away from it so
that you can access the mounting holes. Take care not to damage the paint
insulation of the coil.

Put the base plate with the stator hanging loosely from the unit into the
place of your old generator.

The larger black coil will show into the direction of the wire
exit.

(The picture shows a different
engine!)

Put the stator coil back onto the plate,
take care not the damage the wires. the stator has to snap in rather
sharply. If it sets soft, you have probably squeezed a wire underneath!

Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the
elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit
lopsided and will tough the rotor, damaging it.

Screw the coil down with the 3 screws M4 and tighten.

Ignition
timing

To get maximum
flexibility no groove has been put into the rotor. No need to worry over
the now lost woodruff key. It did not have an arresting capacity, it was
guiding to correct ignition settings. Now you have the markings and a much
greater flexibility.

Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small
pressed in line. That is an ignition marking. It is durable, but not well
visible, so better highlighten it with some marker pen.

Remark: Don't be worry about the pressed-in arrow on the
rotor showing clockwise. The system is made for anti-clockwise run.

Have a look at the new stator. You will find on the circumference of its
baseplate a small red marking. That to is an ignition marking.

Should you have taken the stator completely off the plate, make sure to
put it back intom the same position, otherwise timing will be lost. That
danger is however small, as the wire will guide you correctly on its way
to the exit.

(Note, there are 2 further markings on the plate, but not coloured and
not at height of the small black coils.)

Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely
above the statorbase.

Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into ignition position. Might
be 2mm BTDC.

Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the
crank's position and reset it onto the crank in such a way that the
marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the stator. In that
position fasten the rotor carefully with the original nut.

(Marking highlightened here in white!)

Fasten the ignition coil on the frame of the motorcycle, best there, where the
original coil was.

To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine
casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the
ignition coil has not been put onto the wire terminal. You
should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on
the engine side.

Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and
white).

Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the
two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals
engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

white to white

red to red

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing
again,
enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little
barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye
terminal has to be screwed directly to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). Take note! disrespecting is the most frequent cause for ignition problems !!
Without this direct connection the system does not work or not work for long without problems.
Please do not rely on the frame for ground. Paint, oil and dirt often prevent good contact!

*

The new regulator/rectifier has 4 wires

2 black ending in a plastic plug
for the AC input from the 2 black generator wires

1 red with a plastic plug
which outputs plus

1 brown with a plastic plug
beeing ground (minus)

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... should be first introduced into the supplied twin plastic
plug housing. This housing connects to the plastic plug at the end of the
2 black wires on the regulator. It does not matter which black is at which
side, as there is AC.

The brown cable from the regulator ...

... should connect to either battery minus or good ground if
there is no battery.

The red cable from the regulator ...

Take care:Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... should connect to either battery 12V PLUS or if there is
no battery to the wiring that runs to your consumers (normally main
switch intake pin).

If you use a battery, make sure that you have a 15A-fuse
between battery and vehicle circuitry.

There is NO facility for a charge control light without battery this will not work anyway.
The regulator has an inbuilt high potency condenser to smoothen voltage.
This will make sure that your side indicators (flashers) and horn will
work correctly even without battery.

*

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the
ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Note:Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure
this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get
mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Connected to ground - it
will stop ignition!

This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already
had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against
ground.

Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that
connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The
blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like
previously.

*

Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...

Please do
not
use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables"
or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage
it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack
and not any old cable.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK
(e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

*

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the
first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and
fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for
correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our
trouble-shooting guide on our homepage.
As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

*

IMPORTANT:During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure.
For more
detail and how to check see (online) here.

Important safety and operating information

#

Safety first! Please observe the general
health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR)
as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the
manufacturer of your motorcycle.
The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation.
Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to
prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible
for the installation and the correctness of settings.

#

Ignition systems generate high tension! With our
material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not
only be painful, but outrightly dangerous.
Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and
open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the
spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push
it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.

#

Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor)
you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor)
to comply with your local laws.

#

After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even
those preinstalled. If parts
get
loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble
screws only loosely.

#

Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it.
Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to
check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic
components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner
electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the
operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark
plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The
general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to
be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after
assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the
ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any
malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block.
In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base
first before you send off the material to us for checking

#

The spark of classic, points based ignition
systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks
therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our
system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and
therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour,
which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated
speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever
down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).

#

Systems using a twin
outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe
that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to
an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no
spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks
may fly all over the coil.

#

Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely
disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil,
regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off.
The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the
soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.

#

Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on
the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator.
Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator,
the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will
always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between
wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.

Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance
of more than 5kOhm.
Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase
their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a
defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the
cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use
carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which
promise to increase spark.

#

It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce
the risk of corrosion.

#

Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its
magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller
for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!

#

Should the motorcycle not be in use for some
longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent
current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a
disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.

#

Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system.Enjoy driving
your bike with its new electric heart!