Table Talk with AA Gill: Sankt Annæ

Our resident critic takes a trip to Copenhagen this week, where he samples the best (and worst) that Scandinavian cuisine has to offer

These are the rules: we don’t take responsibility, we don’t take credit. When
some short-order whinger asks how can I be so cruel, when I know it’s
somebody’s life, their dreams, I’m trashing, I tell them, “It’s not my
responsibility.”

To get a bad review, you’ve first got to get a bad restaurant.

When they send flowers and say they’re going to name their next child A
because I can make their fortune, I tell them first get a good restaurant,
and then you get good notices.