Pedro Milladino moves back to the big city and finds his new neighbourhood of Phnom Penh Thmey is a place of contrasts, and a place where a new urban elite are using their riches to leave an indelible mark on the landscape.

Naomi Collett Ritz tries out a unique new restaurant in Siem Reap, based on Cambodia’s love of insects. The Bug Cafe features a menu of tarantula-stuffed donuts, ant-filled muffins and – her favourite – scorpions.

Despite being more eye-catching than spirit houses and weirder than eating duck foetuses (maybe), the Ting Mong has managed to stay a lesser-known aspect of Khmer traditional culture. Ting Mongs are kind of like animist scarecrows, made by villagers in order to ward away bad spirits that can make them sick or wilt their …