all the pulleys move free, i replaced the belt and when putting it on the tensioner was very difficult to move.all the pulleys move free, i replaced the belt and when putting it on the tensioner was very difficult to move.

Well teh tensioner has a spring in it so it will be hard to move it to get the belt on. But it you move it in the direction to take the tension off the belt does it spring back or stay put ? if it stays put its bad you will need a new serpintine belt tentionerWell teh tensioner has a spring in it so it will be hard to move it to get the belt on. But it you move it in the direction to take the tension off the belt does it spring back or stay put ? if it stays put its bad you will need a new serpintine belt tentioner

1 Suggested Answer

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.Goodluck!

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Related Questions:

Get an inexpensive mechanics stethoscope and put the end on the shaft part of idler pulleys, housing near bearings of alternator and water pump etc.
If that doesn't give clear results, try squirting a little water on the serpentine belt as if runs [a length of small drip irrigation hose works really well to get a little water on the belt]. The water will provide harmless temporary lubrication to the belt and change the sound if it is caused by the belt slipping.

This is usually caused by a bad idler or tensioner pulley. If the bearing for one of these pulleys goes bad, it can cause the pulley to kick sideways just a little bit, which is often enough to misalign or even throw the belt.

To check, remove the belt and check the idler and tensioner pulleys for free play in the bearing.

Make sure that a) none of the pulleys are loose due to failing bearings b) that the belt tensioner is applying enough tension to the belt c) belt tensioner damper is working. First twist the belt by hand between the longest point between pulleys by about 90 degrees. This should be difficult to do if the tensioner is applying correct tension. Next while the engine is idling look at the belt alignment from the side to be sure the belt is not wandering backwards and forwards on the pulleys. Also see if the tensioner pulley is bouncing about. Perhaps best to again remove belt and wiggle each pulley by hand to detect any play in the bearings. If tensioner is bouncing it is likely the damper spring is not working as it should.

CHECK IF POWER STERING IS LEAKING, IF NOT LEAKING TAKE W 40 SPRAY ON LOWER BALL JOINT AND TEST IF NO MAKE NOISE /IF NOISE STILL SPRAY ON STRUT RUBERS CHECK AGAIN , I AM SUE YOU WIL FIND THE PROBLEMI HAVE SAME PROBLEM SAME PROBLEM POWER HOSE STERING WAS LEAKING

could be the alternator, water pump take the belt and spin all the pulleys and listen for noise and make sure they turn smoothlyanother trick is to take a can of wd40 or equivalent and spray the bearings 1 at a time till the noise goes away or quiets down

The Saab accessory drive (serpentine) belt is self-tensioning by means of a tensioning pulley. Excessive play means that the current belt is spent and must be replaced. It is a very good idea to replace the idler pulley above the tensioner pulley at this time as the bearings fail over time. You can get an aftermarket pulley of machined billet aluminum construction with a repalceable bearing race from Wazee Pulleys. This pulley is superior to the stock one in just about every conceivable way. To remove the belt you will need a 1/2 inch socket extension bar that will fit exactly in the top of the tensioning pulley housing and a six mm allen key which you will use to lock the tensioner assembly into this position relaxing the belt. This site shows the proper routing of the stock belt and the routing procedure to bypass the highly failure prone center idler pulley if your car has that (yours should not), as well as the procedure to remove and fit a new belt. Note, the belts shown on this site are for the short-belt modification only. See also, this site for additional information. Another diagram is here with part numbers for the pulleys and the belt.To remove the belt, you will find it best to remove the airbox to allow you more room at the top end to work. Also, jack up the car and remove the passenger wheel to give you access down below.