Re: white 588 plow?

588 and Case 500 were the same. Case put a 8" cylinder between the main backbone and the pull beam that the hitch is bolted to. You will have to remove the 4 long bolts that presently clamp the pull beam to the front cross bar with the White decal. Cut 4 peices of pipe that fit over those bolts and cut long enough so the pull beam can slide. Make a bracket thatwill hold the cylinder at the first bottom and another to attach it to the pull beam. This will creat more more and better control of the plow on sidehills. This was a kit that Case offered. I don't know why White stuck with the sliding draftbar setup, which only gave limited (4" in or out)side travel, and made the tractor tug sideways by moving the center of draft. This setup works like a rudder on the plow and it still maintains it's center of draft. My quick sketch should be self explanitory.Loren, the Acg.

That's kinda what I was wondering. The Deere 1450 I looked at before this one had a turnbuckle that could be replaced with a cylinder for sidehill hitch. I liked that system better than a drawbar-style, and am glad to see it could be done with this one as well. The 1450 owner was askin $875 and the plow needed more work. This one looks to be ready to drop and go. He wants me to make an offer.

Can this plow be adjusted to allow me to do a good job at 5-6 inches deep? A lot of guys are going to rototillers and tilling 2 inches deep and it's getting more popular to only plow as shallow as it takes to bury the trash.

just a word of advice, a 1450 and a 588 aren't even in the same universe, buy the White you will never regret it, I have a 500 Case and it flat out eats cornstalks from tall corn at 30,000 population, 6 inches isn't much, we go 8 to 10

I have considerable experience with soil managment, from collage to selling all types of tillage tools as a Case Dealer. Be very careful with rotary tillage practices. We sold Howard Rotovators back in the late 60s and early 70s. I built toolbars to mount Case K160 unit planters onto the Rotovators to make planting corn a one trip operation. And yes we have stone!! Limestone bedrock, under soils ranging from honyeoway (sp)loam to nasty clay, to gravel. Rorary tillage will trowel an extreamly tight soil zone which will block moisture and root migration. We always incorperated deep shank tillage with rotary seedbead preperation. Plowing at only 6" will also cause extream soil compaction close to the soil surface causing lack of deep root development and much increase soil erosion. On top of that pest and weed control has to be ramped up , and decomposition of shallow residue will compete with your crop for nutrients, especially nitrogen. You need a root zone of app 12" to max your crop yields, over a sub structure that allows moisture to migrate in during wet spells and up during drought. If you put 6" of rich topsoil on a concrete slab, and depent on mother nature to nurture it, what will your crop do???Loren, the Acg.

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