Finally some colour on all silver to make it look more interesting.I was apprehensive that the paint many bleed through the masks. The quality of masks cut by Callie are excellent. The glue has food tack but not as aggressive to lift of the base coat when the masks are removed. II also made sure to spray a coat of silver after the mask was applied. This ensures that any bleed under the mask will be silver and the mask edges get sealed with the silver coat and help in preventing any bleed under the masks. Thankfully the entire process went satisfactorily. Here are some pictures

Next picture shows all the sorrounding cover removed and just the masks left on. The masks were removed while the paint was still tacky. This helps in the paint edges settle down and does not leave a raised edge of paint. And the last two pictures of the finished wing markings on top and bottom wings

Had been on the prowl to get a set of working luggage compartment over center catches. Finally some research, some known folks and some waiting got me the cut parts and I set on work.First picture shows the catches on full scale. Rest of the pictures show the one for the model. Made from 0.8mm mild steel, cut on waterjet, some bending, hammering, some pieces of wire and you are almost there. The over center piece that locks will be sized and fitted once the pieces are screwed on to the fuse. The first picture shows how the cut parts start and thereon. The entire assembly is just proud of one inch. The one on full scale is around 4 inches

Hello! Peter, good to still see some interest in the build log. Yes there has been some progress but then life intervenes. Even I feel that it's tantilizingly close now, unless I discover a major issue that may have gone unnoticed till now.

I understand that Laser 150 is a Glow Engine. Having painstaking built this model for almost half a decade I thought that a Electric Motor or a Gasser would surely increase the lifespan of the model, that's why this query.

I have just painted my wheel logos, red does not cover very well, I used a paintbrush that ended in a fine point that I could put a drop of paint onto the raised areas with and then tease it out. It was still not perfect after two coats, but when you lok at photos of full size they are not perfect either, hand painted on old surfaces, we just have to make sure our blemishes are 1/4 of the full size ones.

Hi there M, what colours have you used for your painting? I have bought some from humbrol but the red is far too dark and not as vibrant as the Brookland Avaition scheme I want to model.

I have had major trouble finding suitable paint shades. Ultimately I have up and settled for ordinary, cheap Auto enamel from local firms. The colour are not even close to the original. Well maybe except for the black maybe No one ships paints overseas these days not even humbrol. I managed to get some tins but found the quality was no longer same. The Matt 78 is semi gloss, silver 11 was more of grey. I suggest if you can get Solarlac paints it would be best suited

Time to add some colour, literally!!The entire fuse was first given a coat of same silver as on wings.Then the fuse areas with lettering in white/silvery white were given couple of coats of appropriate white/silvery white and allowed to dry.The masks for the lettering were then applied over these white/silvery white at appropriate locations. Next step was to spray on another coat of white/silvery white over the masks so that all the edges are sealed and chances of any bleed through of darker colour is reduced.And then the upper fuse and cowl etc was sprayed with red. Once the red was dry the area was masked off and the lower fuse half (or 2/3 if you will) was sprayed black and the entire assembly allowed to dry for few hours.Time to peel back the masks and see if any bleed through occurred. Thankfully the lettering's all came out fine (minus very minor bleed under the pinks that have since been touched up with appropriate paint). But, when things go too well there is something not going right. Right? While spraying the black on lower portion I had not noticed and the mask on the red had lifted off in some places thereby allowing over spray of black on to red. Oh well! you live and learn. So next step will be to let the paint harden for couple of days, then rub down the over spray areas and the respray red and hope things goo better that time.Overall satisfied with paint job. With this all major painting is complete (except correcting the over spray). What's left of painting can be handled by a brush as mostly small items and touching up the nuts and bolts once in place.Some pictures for anyone who might still be interested

Picture 1 - You can see the base silver on fuse side with white/silver white on the sides as well. The top deck has been sprayed redPicture 2 - The paint drying, love the reflection on the floor tiles, looks like a proper Tiger Moth structure Picture 3 and 4 - Just some shots of the cowl area. In the third picture the lettering masks are clearly seen. This is the stage when edge sealing coat was sprayed on the letters

Pictures of after the vinyl masks were lifted off revealing the white/silvery white letters underneath Picture 1. The tail number under the tailplanePicture 2 - The G registration. Black over spray can be clearly seen in this picture Picture 3 - The lettering under the front cockpit door

SpikeAll the masks were cut by Callie graphics in US ( https://callie-graphics.com/)So were the stickers that come on the fin and the cowl cheeks. These were too complicated to be masked and painted so settled for stick on printed vinyl and then clear coated.