Petite surprise en arrivant sur le bloc, un grimpeur avait mis un torchon dans une prise pour sécher les résurgences... il avait oublié de l'enlever une fois la période de pluie terminée. J'ai donc séché la prise avec une serviette, puis attendu qu'elle sèche car même si c'est une des meilleure prise du bloc, c'est aussi une prise clé!!Small gift arriving front of the boulder, another climber put a towel in a big hold some days ago, probably to dry it, but he had forgotten to remove it after the rain. So I dry it with a towel, then waited for the wind... Even if it is one of the juggy holds of the problem, it is also a key hold!

Je fais quelques mouvements pour m'échauffer puis enchaîne deux fois Atrésie (8A) pour être sur de ne pas avoir l'onglet dans mon essai.I warm up a bit, and sent Atrésie (8A) two times in a row to be sure that my fingers will not freeze in my attempt.

mercredi 12 décembre 2012

Here is a new game, like almost for every days of outdoor climbing in The Font forest...Up to you to discover and search in wiwh problems I climb today...

Premier bloc ou j'ai mis de très bons essais, mais sans pouvoir réussir... la prochaine fois!!First problem, where I put some really good try, but can't do it... next time for sure!!

Second bloc, que j'ai pu réaliser en très peu d'essais aujourd'hui. Je suis très fier d'avoir pu enfin enchaîner ce bloc le 12/12/12!!Second problem, and I was finally able to send it in few tries today. I am really proud to sent this problem on the 12/12/12!!

Bientôt le résumé complet de la journée, avec plus de photos!!Soon, the full story of the day, with more pictures!!
Et maintenant les réponses :and now, the answers :
Supertanker, ou plus précisément le plat main gauche d'Atrésie :Supertanker, or more the left hand sloper of Atrésie :

Just enough time to drink some coffees, chat with other legends arriving after me and Sean, and time for warming up arrive...A stunning moments of the weekend, I saw Adam succeed (or almost) his first one arm pull up, while all the présent competitors were probably able to do 5 or more ... But nothing serious, just after that, he continue his warm up climbing a crimpy problem in a roof, and I was not able to do one single mov ...

Then up to serious things, start of the work of 5 problems more or less hard, but one thing on, none of us was able to make several mouvs in a row on the first try ...Many small calibrations to find, or strength to really recruit, or coordination exercises much harder than during the World Cup ...

La chose ou j'ai pris le plus de plaisir ce week-end, hormis le show du samedi soir, est d'avoir pu partager les méthodes avec quelques uns des meilleurs grimpeurs du monde, et aussi de pouvoir profiter de quelques conseils...The thing that I took the most fun this weekend, except for the Saturday night show, is to be able to share some methods with some of the best climbers in the world, and also to take advantage of some advices...

After two hours of climbing non-stop in 5 problems in the 8A/8B range, even more for the yellow one, everyone had no more skin on fingers. We went to have a big restaurant in Stockholm city center.A good night's sleep and then we had the time to go visit a old town. A good walk in the snow, a small fast meal, a little nap, then it's already time to leave to go to warm up for the big show...

Regarding the competition, I did not really take it for a competition, but rather a show, and everything was well organized to have a great show.And in these conditions, everyone gives his best to get as many tops as he can, which was not easy because of the level of the problems...As I climb first, I might not be focused enough and I loose some tries by making small mistakes, which I was not allowed to put pressure on other climbers ...What was the most stange is that I got the moves that I had failed during the working session, but I also loose some that I did easily the day before...

Problem 4 :

Etant donné que je n'étais pas préparé pour une compet de ce niveau, mon objectif était de prendre un maximum de plaisir à grimper avec ces stars, et aussi essayer de ne pas faire dernier du classement...
J'ai donc eu la chance de remplir mes objectifs, en grimpant dans des blocs très motivants, et aussi de battre Adam, qui est quand même pour moi le meilleur grimpeur du monde en rocher...Since I was not prepared for this level of comp, my goal was to take maximum of pleasure to climb with these stars, and also try not be last about the ranking ...So I had the chance to attein my goal, climbing on very motivating problems, and also beat Adam, who is for me the best climber of the world on rock ...Problem 5 :