Dec 26, 2007

Chef Eric Ripert showed Chef on Call participant Sarah Rothleder of Reston how to tie a veal loin, but you may find them already tied in the refrigerated meat case. You may substitute several smaller loins (slightly more than 1 pound) for the two 2 1/2-pound loins the recipe calls for.

A reduced chicken stock or broth, called for in this recipe, has a more concentrated, intensified flavor than regular stock or broth. It usually has been reduced by half.

Servings:

12

When you scale a recipe, keep in mind that cooking times and temperatures, pan sizes and seasonings may be affected, so adjust accordingly. Also, amounts listed in the directions will not reflect the changes made to ingredient amounts.

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have ready large roasting pan with a rack inside.

For the veal: Divide the oil between 2 medium skillets or saute pans; heat over medium heat until the oil shimmers. Season the veal loins all over with salt, pepper and Herbes de Provence. Divide the loins between the skillets or pans and sear on all sides until lightly browned; this will take about 10 minutes (the meat will not be cooked through). Transfer the meat to the roasting pan as it is finished. Roast the veal loins for 25 to 35 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the loins registers 130 degrees. Cover the meat loosely with aluminum foil and let it rest for 10 minutes before discarding the kitchen twine and cutting the loins.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: Heat the canola oil over medium heat in one of the skillets or saute pans used to sear the veal loins. When it is hot, add the beef or veal cubes or scraps and sear for several minutes, turning them often, until they have browned on all sides; season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the shallots and garlic; cook for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender. Add the Madeira to deglaze the pan, using a spatula to dislodge any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Add the reduced chicken stock or broth; reduce slightly. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer, or preferably a chinois, discarding the solids, and return to the saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and whisk until well combined. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

When ready to serve, have ready a warmed serving platter.

Whisk the butter into the sauce in increments over medium-low heat, making sure each piece is incorporated before adding the next. When all the butter is incorporated, add the slivers of black truffle, stirring to combine. Cut the veal loins into 1/2-inch-thick slices and arrange on the platter. Serve with the black truffle Madeira sauce on the side, or spoon some of the sauce around the edges of the meat. Serve warm.

This preparation of the summer classic is fussier than stewing everything in one pot, but by cooking two of the vegetables separately — zucchini and eggplant, those most prone to sogginess — you keep their textures distinct.

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Comments our editors find particularly useful or relevant are displayed in Top Comments, as are comments by users with these badges: . Replies to those posts appear here, as well as posts by staff writers.