Start by opening the hood. Here's what you will see. You need to remove all of the plastic turbo tubes that run across the top of the engine.

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Remove the cover over the connector on the side of the intake hose by releasing the plastic catches and lifting up on the top from the front (sorry this pic is kinda blurry):

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Separate the two cover halves and remove them. Push in on the metal retention clip on the electrical connector, then pull the connector out towards the front of the car. You may need to wiggle it a little:

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Pull the aluminum tube out of its connector:

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Loosen all the clamps on the air tubes. I just slid them back over the flanges and tightened them gently so they wouldn't get lost. You don't want them sliding down the aluminum turbo tubes because they can be tough to get back into position. Be sure to loosen the clamp holding the Compressor Bypass Valve return hose and remove the hose from the bottom of the intake tube:

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You also need to remove the small vacuum hose seen next to the CBV return hose in this pic:

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Use the T-25 Torx bit to remove the 3 screws holding the plastic air tubes to the engine.

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Take the large rubber hose (just behind the radiator) off the front of the twin pressure tube.

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Now pull on the twin pressure tube toward the front of the car. You may need to wiggle it some back and forth. It takes quite a bit of force to get it loose as it has to pop over the flanges on the aluminum tubes. Set the twin pressure tube aside. Disconnect the accordion hose (by the air cleaner) from the intake tube. Now pull on the intake tube until it comes loose from the aluminum turbo tubes. There is a long vacuum hose connected to the bottom. I just left it connected and rotated the tube over to right to get it out of the way. Stuff some rags or paper towels into the turbo tubes. You don't want any screws falling down into those tubes.

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Now use the T-25 Torx bit to remove the 7 screws holding the 2 plastic covers to the top of the engine:

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Use a finger to release the clips on the front and rear of the timing belt cover:

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And remove it:

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Then remove the spark plug coils cover:

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Use a fingernail or screwdriver to lift the catch on the connector of the first coil:

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Then slide the connector out of the coil:

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Now use the 10mm socket to remove the coil holddown bolt:

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Lift straight up on the coil to remove it. It might take a lot of force because the rubber boot of the coil might be stuck to the spark plug.

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Use the 5/8" spark plug socket to unscrew the spark plug:

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If the plug does not come out with the socket after you unscrew it, use the needle-nose pliers to remove it:

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The spark plug holes in my car we pretty cruddy so I used my shotgun cleaning kit to clean them up. I put the brush on the end of the handle, then put a patch over the brush and soaked it in disc brake cleaner. I then scrubbed out the holes. You could probably do the same thing with some rags and a screwdriver, but I don't think it would be as effective. The main thing you want to do is get the spark plug gasket seat area clean so that you get a good seal when you tighten up the plugs:

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Before:

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After:

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Place a little anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the plug. This is to prevent the plug from stripping out the threads in the head when you remove it the next time you change plugs.

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Screw the plug into the hole and tighten to 22 ft-lbs using the torque wrench. Repeat for the remaining 5 plugs.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Before you put the engine covers on, make sure that all the coil connectors are in tight, the retention clips are snapped in place, and that the 10mm hold down bolts are all tight. Don't forget to take the rags out of the turbo tubes before you put the plastic tubes back on.

When you install the intake hose, make sure you connect the small hose to the bottom near the CBV return hose. You can see the small hose between the intake manifold and the CBV return hose in the center of this pic:

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Also, be sure the CBV return hose clamp is tight.

You will have to push quite hard to get the plastic turbo tubes back onto the aluminum tubes as they have to pop over the flanges. Push them on until they snap into place. Reinstall all the clamps and make sure they're tight. Double check to make sure everything looks like the first pic at the top and you're done!

John Callahan wrote:Excellent! How do you keep the debris out of the cylinder while doing the cleaning?Thanks

The area should be relatively clean because it's sealed by the coil pack. Any large loose material should be vacuumed away. For the crud you see at the bottom of my spark plug holes, there really is no way to prevent it from dropping into the cylinders. It is probably dried oil that dripped down, possibly combined with some carbon that has come up from the cylinder around the spark plug threads. This stuff will probably dissolve and be absorbed into the cleaning cloth. Any particles that might drop into the cylinder will be small and will be blown out of the exhaust ports when the engine is started.

Thanks for the excellent write-up. I had to use a T-27 on my top covers, but everything else was right on. My problem was a totally misfiring cylinder, which didn't go away until I substituted the last coil pack, as Murphy would have it.