Basement framing Issue, need help

This might be a bit hard to explain, but here it goes...

Basically, I'm finishing our basement and was planning on framing with 2x4s (perpendicular to the wall), with 1/2" foam insulation on the wall, 1/2" of space, then the 2x4s... The problem is, the steps coming from upstairs were finished to the basement by the builder... he framed the steps int he following way:

2x4s against the wall, parallel to the wall (running long ways.)

Which means, when I frame the wall the (what i consider) proper way, the wall will pertrude past the existing door opening by 3"!

What would you do in this situation? Should I frame the length of that wall (about 25 feet) improperly, and do everything else correctly?

Basement framing Issue, need help

Quote:

Originally Posted by drtbk4ever

Is that door already installed?

If so, would it be possible to move it over the couple of inches you need?

It is already installed, and I could possibly move it over.... but that would add to an already complicated job. (Plus the stairs come pretty close to the door opening already and I'm not sure I'd have the clearance required)

Is that something to consider for the entire basement? Or just that wall against the foundation??

It really depends on your basement, and the humidity levels/dampness there. Generally, I prefer to install it either of two ways:
1. All Walls.
2. Only the lower area of the walls that meet the floor.

The difference is based on the overall moisture levels in the basement. Example - Older homes tend to have a higher moisture content in the basement. Newer homes, due to better construction/foundation waterproofing/drainage design....tend to be very-dry/very-low moisture content - in the basement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jthawkins

Also, when framing 2x4s parallel to the wall, how do I go about handling the top and bottom plates? should these be pressure treated 2x2s?

Parallel to the walls: the bottom plates should always be PT, because they are in direct contact with the concrete floor, which is porous and contains percentage of moisture, which can wick-up, into the wood plate.
Top plate can be KD (non PT).

One more thing: Any nails going into PT wood, must be "treated", or galvanized, due to the copper treatment of the PT wood. If you use standard brights, the metal will react with the copper treatment in the PT wood, and will start to corode the nails.

Basement framing Issue, need help

Realize that if this is a long wall, you don't necessarily have to frame out the entire wall like this. You can just do the area of the door clearance, and jog the wall back-over (for stick framing), about 6' past the door location. You can also skip an electrical outlet there, if that were the case...

Basement framing Issue, need help

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst.

Realize that if this is a long wall, you don't necessarily have to frame out the entire wall like this. You can just do the area of the door clearance, and jog the wall back-over (for stick framing), about 6' past the door location. You can also skip an electrical outlet there, if that were the case...

I'm considering doing this; but am not quite sure how it will look finished to have a 2-3" lip on the wall about 5-6 feet in.