Preparation

Meanwhile, combine soy sauce, sake (or white wine), mirin, sugar, scallions and ginger in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Place salmon in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over it. Place lemon slices on top. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes but no more than 2 hours, turning the fish once or twice.

Preheat grill to medium-high.

Place the soaked plank over direct heat on the grill and heat for 2 minutes. Move the plank so it's over indirect heat (see Kitchen Tip, below). Remove the salmon from the marinade, place it skin-side down (if using fillets) on the hot plank and replace the lemon slices on top. Close the lid and cook until the fish is just cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Use the plank as the serving platter, if desired.

Make Ahead Tip: The salmon can be marinated for up to 2 hours.

Equipment: Grilling plank (see Note)

Notes: Cedar (or other hardwood) grilling planks can be found in well-stocked supermarkets in the seafood department, near other grilling supplies, at hardware stores or from plankcooking.com. Make sure the plank is virgin, untreated wood and at least ¼ inch thick, thicker if possible. The thicker the plank, the more expensive, but it will last longer.

Sake is a dry rice wine generally available where wines are sold. Junmai, a special designation for sake, denotes sake brewed from rice that has been milled less than other special-designation sakes. More pure than other sakes, junmai has no distilled alcohol added. It is characterized by a well-rounded, rich flavor and body and more acidity than most sakes.

Mirin is a sweet, low-alcohol rice wine essential in Japanese cooking. Look for it in your supermarket with the Asian ingredients.

Kitchen tip: To cook over indirect heat on a gas grill, turn one burner off and place the plank above it. For a charcoal grill, build two small piles of coals on either side of the grill. Place the plank in the center of the grill above the area without any coals beneath it.

People with celiac disease or gluten-sensitivity should use soy sauces that are labeled "gluten-free," as soy sauce may contain wheat or other gluten-containing sweeteners and flavors.