Friday, July 29, 2011

PROVENCE & RIVIERA

(does not include Aix-en-Provence, Cannes, Marseille, Nice, or St. Tropez; includes the region known as Provence-Alpes-Cotes-d’Azur, which includes such places as Antibes, Arles, Avignon, Provence, St. Paul de Vence, & St. Remy de Provence)

Sights & Sites
●Musée Picasso – Chateau Grimaldi; 011-33-04-9290-5426; antibes-juanlespins.com.
●Le Sentier du Littoral – among world’s most spectacular footpaths; also known as Sentier Tire-poil, which means “wind so strong it ruffles hair”); circuit runs around gardens at Eilen Roc over to l’Anse de l’Argent Faux; stretches about 3 miles along peninsula’s outermost tip; begins gently at Plage de la Garoupe (where Cole Porter & Gerald Murphy used to hang), with paved walkway & dazzling views over Baie de la Garoupe & Alps; round cap’s far end, however, paved promenade gives way to boulder-studded pathway that picks its way along 50' cliffs, dizzying switchbacks & thundering breakers; continue along new portion to cove l’Anse de l’Argent Faux, where can stop & catch breath before heading up to entrance of Eilen Roc; then follow Avenue Beaumont impasse tangent until touch Cap’s main road (RD 2559); walk is long & takes about 2 hours to complete, but may be 2 of your life’s more unforgettable hours, especially if you tackle it at sunset; if you come across locked gates blocking your route, it’s because storm warnings have issued & you are not to enter; from bus station in town take #2 bus to Fontaine stop; to return, follow Plage de la Garoupe until Boulevard de la Garoupe, where you’ll make left to reconnect with bus.

Sights & Sites
●Musée des Arts Decoratifs et de l’Art Moderne – Chateau de Gourdon; 011-33-04-9309-6802; chateau-gourdon.com; 1 of France’s most impressive collections of 1920s-1930s Art Deco & Nouveau furniture.
●Musée International de la Parfumerie – 2 Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon; 011-33-04-9705-5800; museesdegrasse.com; Grasse considered (at least by French) birthplace of perfumery; 1st museum opened in 1918, as private museum; since 1921, section dedicated to perfume in all its forms has reflected donors such as Chiris, Pinaud & Piver; in 1931, Viscountess Savigny of Moncorps donated large collection cosmetics & perfumery labels dating back to early 19th Century & from old Seillans perfumery; in 2006, doubled museum surface area; entrance pavilion is ancient Hugues-Aîné perfumery built in 19th Century on remains of former 14th Century Dominican monastery; also includes former hotel Pontevès & its main courtyard, former Pélissier building, and gardens & terraces of different levels.

L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUEHotels
●Mas de Cure Bourse – 120 Chemin de la Serre (Carrefour de Velorgues); 011-33-04-9038-1658; masdecurebourse.com; former post office; close to France’s “Little Venice,” home to antique dealers; in vast, shaded park, by large pool bordered with greenery, near fountain on terrace, under imposing plane trees or oaks 100s of years-old; fireplace in winter.

Restaurants
●La Cave de Mougins – 50 Avenue Jean-Charles Mallet; 011-33-04-9228-06 11; cavedemougins.fr; cellar of this fabulous wine bar is worth detour, and not just for its 100s of vintages, but also for its stunning vaulted ceiling, events-packed calendar (tastings, meet-the-winemakers evenings, little concerts) & atmospheric terrace; uring the day, it doubles up as deli so can nibble on cheese & pâté platters with glass of wine.
●Moulins de Mougins – 1028 Avenue Notre-Dame de Vie; 011-33-04-9375-7824; moulindemougins.com; menu at this old 16th Century mill is Riviera institution; guests dine facing beautiful garden, dotted with artworks.
●Au Rendez-Vous de Mougins – Place du Commandant Lamy; 011-33-04-9375-8747; au-rendez-vous-mougins.fr; at heart of old village, guarded by mighty plane tree, among best-value restaurants; cuisine is fresh, generous & mostly sourced at Marché Forville; reservations essential.

Shopping
●La Cave de Mougins – 50 Avenue Jean-Charles Mallet; 011-33-04-9228-06 11; cavedemougins.fr; cellar of this fabulous wine bar is worth detour, and not just for its 100s of vintages, but also for its stunning vaulted ceiling, events-packed calendar (tastings, meet-the-winemakers evenings, little concerts) & atmospheric terrace; uring the day, it doubles up as deli so can nibble on cheese & pâté platters with glass of wine.

Restaurants
●Las Castelas – go through Sivergues on D114, till road ends, then follow gravel road to end; 011-33-04-9074-3081 (c) or 011-33-6-9930-7957; they will absolutely not serve you without reservations, regardless of how many people are present.