I love this one, there is something so simple and lovely about this photo, she is so poised and petite.

Georgia May Jagger (who I have a bit of a style crush on also) has been said to resemble the 1960's model with her blond bombshell hair and striking gap between her two front teeth. There is a definite likeness between them anyway.

Brigitte Bardot is one of Kate Moss' style idols, again there is an undeniable resemblance between the two

These are just a few moodboards that I made on photoshop, starting at the beginning with the first fashion shoot by Edward Steichen and leading on to 1960's photography greats such as Alexey Brodovich and Irving Pen (Top).

Fashion photograhy is now dominated by names such as MarioTestino and Annie Leibovitz (Top).

Stylists are a big part of the fashion industry and fashion photography in general, they are the invisible hand in a lot of work and I don't believe they are credited enough. These are just some examples of contempory stylists and also stylist ledgends such as Diana Vreeland.

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Polly Mellen: The Fashion NotoriousBy Jesse May FisherPolly
Allen Mellen is someone you should be familiar with, her name speaks
volumes in the fashion industry, her work, collaborations and general
adoration and enthusiasm for fashion proves Mellen as one of the most
influential and inspirational “fashionista’s” to date. She was born in
West Hartford, Connecticut and worked as a nurses aid during the end of
the second World War. She made her way to New York City where she worked
as a sales assistant at a Store called Lord and Taylor, a friend from
the store arranged a meeting for her with Diana Vreeland who was editor
of Harper’s Bazarre at the time, she worked under Vreeland as an editor
and stylist for many years at Harper’s Bazarre before moving to Vogue to
work with Grace Mirabella and Vreeland again. From 1991-1999 Mellen
worked as creative director at Allure magazine, however, her most
influential years were with Vogue under the tutelage of Vreeland. Mellen
arrived into the fashion industry in the late 1950’s when the fashion
editor, however vital their contribution, never saw their own name
attached to their work.Katherine
Hepburn was one of Mellen’s earliest influences, she was a cultural
icon and acknowledged as an inspirational figure in peoples changing
perception of women over the 20th century. Hepburn’s distinctive
elegance and style greatly influenced the young Polly. However Mellens
most obvious influence was her mentor Diana Vreeland, she was Vreelands
protege, she taught her all that she knew “from Vreelands rib came Polly
Mellen” states the phenomenal photographer Richard Avedon comically
conveying their similarities regarding their style of work. Polly Mellen
was a breath of fresh air to work with when you understood her wave
length, she collaborated with photography genius's such as Irving Penn,
Helmut Newton, Mario Testino, Steven Miesel and famously Richard Avedon.
Mellen
and Richard Avedon were life long partners in crime in the fashion
industry, they conspired together to tune into the mod youthquake and
futurism of the sixties, initially Avedon thought she was too “noisy” to
work with but but had a change of heart when realised “she was one of
the most creative sitting editors I have ever worked with”. Together
they produced a spectacular array of amazing photographs including
pictures of up and coming models such as their famous shot of nude
actress in 1981 Natassja Kinski wearing nothing but an ivory Patricia
Von Musulin bracelet and an elegantly wrapped boa constrictor.They had
the ability to capture something different and innovative, their
abundance of creative chemistry punches boldly through their work
portraying elements of politics, culture and history. She concentrated,
critiqued and encouraged Avedon; their work blossomed under the
influence of each other. Mellen
was right on time to dominate the stylistic world of post war United
States in the 1960’s and make it her own. With Avedon they photographed
the sixteen-year-old Penelope Tree, Mellen states “Dick you have to see
her she looks like something from outer space” when describing Tree’s
wide eyed features. They shot her with out shoes in a paraphernalia
pantsuit with exaggerated feathered eyelashes and then in an Ungaro
couture dress with a graphically curving metal neck piece. It is
arguably one of the most effective and greatest fashion images of all
time. Mellen holds such admiration for Avedon stating “he gave me such a
growth of vision, imagination and intellect”.Mellen’s
photographs belongs to an exceptional class of fashion documentation
that reaches the quality of psycho-sexual-sociopolitical commentary.
There is a definite taught intensity between the collaboration of a
great fashion stylist and a great photographer. In the 1970’s Mellen and
collaborating photographer Helmut Newton pushed the boundaries of
sexual liberation to its limits.The
most eye catching and provocative photo shoots that Polly Mellen
worked on was Helmut Newtons notorious “Story of Ohhh” it was one of the
first depictions of photo-feminism sexuality from a woman’s point of
view to enter American mainstream media. Mellen’s favourite shot is one
of model Lisa Taylor sitting in a predominantly masculine position in a
Calvin Klein dress; meeting the eye of the half dressed naked man, her
expression is of frank desire. Mellen describes “The story for me was
sex, heat, tease.” Mellen tries to pinpoint, at some level, a truth
about the changing times, the vitality, sensuality and complexity of
young women at the time.These
photographs radically radiate change and portray chic, shock and sex “I
like to take things further. Too often stylists do things to
please...you loose the magic this way...I was a stronger woman behind
the camera than I was in real life” Mellen felt the most comfortable and
in control when behind the camera directing fashion and art. With her
signature grey bob and fearless capacity for modernity Mellen occupies a
unique and well renowned name for herself in the fashion world, however
for reasons of historical convention even her biggest admirers may not
realise the great scope of work which she has had the invisible hand.Polly
Mellen is known for encouraging and promoting young designers in the
fashion industry “she has never lost her enthusiasm in a field where
everyone seems so faded” Isaac Mizrali an American TV presenter and
fashion designer displays his affection and respect for Mellen.According
to Vera Wang “Polly has the most extraordinary ability to adapt to the
future”. She also never stops searching for young fresh designers, she
takes times to attend fashion shows at strange times in odd places like a
warehouse or a boxing ring.Mellen
remains grounded and humorous still to this day, at fashion shows she
doesn't hesitate to express her love for the collections, she cheers and
waves her arms about, she is known as the industry cheerleader, quite
the opposite to the oversized pair of sunglasses in the front row
belonging to a certain editor of vogue.

Mellen
is now retired in Connecticut with her husband of forty-six years Henry
Wigglesworth Mellen, however, her love for fashion is still thriving
and she remains firmly in the fashion scene attending fashions events
and shows. Over the years Polly Mellen has injected a much needed
vibrancy into the sometimes uniform and conservative world of fashion,
her passion for her work is evident and her contributions and
collaborations are truly something else and for this she should be
applauded.

Article written by Jesse May FisherMood Board by Jesse May FisherThis is an article I wrote as an assignment in college I then submitted it to We See It magazine and it was published yaaay!!....click here to see the magazine copy. Check out the We See It magazine on facebook too. Every second month there is some amazing photography, fashion and illustration.

So I'm a blogging virgin, here it go's:)
This is a design project for college, I had to make a garment out of recycled materials, I chose feathers. My inspiration was Josephine Baker a dancer from the 1960's well known for her extravagant over the top costumes. There is a definite 1960's feel to the shoot, kind of inevitable as I'm slightly obsessed with the 1960's, I was definitely born in the wrong era.
We shot them in Hotel Meyrick in Galway City and despite Emily having a cold and myself and my lovely makeup artist Louise kelly being a bit worse for wear after Friday night, I'm pretty pleased with them.
Hope you enjoy:)