Why Melatonin Could Be the Next Vitamin C

For many of us, the word “melatonin” is enough to get us yawning — after all, it’s a hormone our bodies produce when it’s time to nod off. For this reason, it has been bottled up in supplement form (much to the relief of jetlagged travelers and sporadic sleepers). But skincare buffs could have a reason to make room for melatonin, too — albeit not in supplement form. When applied topically, melatonin might host a bevy of beauty benefits.

You may have noticed melatonin migrating from the supplement section at the drugstore to the shelves of Sephora®. This is because it holds promise as an antioxidant. In fact, some dermatologists think melatonin could join the ranks of vitamin C in the rolodex of effective free-radical fighters. “Some studies suggest melatonin may be as effective, if not more effective, than [current antioxidant] go-tos,” notes dermatologist Dr. Amelia Hausauer of Aesthetx Plastic SurgeryTM. Similar to vitamin C, topical melatonin works to suppress UV-induced damage (which can accelerate age spots, wrinkles, etc.). According to NYC-based dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross, “Melatonin neutralizes free radicals, and boosts the productivity of other antioxidants in your skin.”

Despite its promise, though, topical melatonin application might not be for everyone — specifically those prone to hyperpigmentation. “There’s controversy,” confirms NYC-based dermatologist, Dr. Michelle Henry. “Although it is an antioxidant and potentially effective for anti-aging, melatonin may also stimulate melanocytes [melanin-forming cells], which would lead to an accentuation of dark spots.”

But the jury is still out: Interestingly, there’s a contrary school of thought that believes melatonin can actively help lighten hyperpigmentation. Henry says she falls into this camp, believing that the antioxidant benefits outweigh the possible risk of added pigmentation. “In fact, [a small study noted] that melatonin may have efficacy against melasma, and even work to induce skin lightening,” she explains.

What everyone does agree on is melatonin’s ability to thwart UV damage and nasty free radicals — which are proven skin-agers.Keep reading to discover four melatonin-spiked products to add to your skincare regimen. (And in case you were wondering: no, applying melatonin to your skin will not make you sleepy.)

The melatonin in the Zelens® Z MelatoninTM Night Repair Serum ($220) is sourced from botanics like St. John’s Wort, Chinese liquorice, and thyme. And, in this formula, melatonin is just the start. A gentle PHA (called gluconolactone) lightly resurfaces, while hyaluronic acid hydrates. Expect a watery, lightweight texture that can be easily layered with a heavier overnight moisturizer.

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Another p.m. product: ISDIN®Melatonik® 3-in-1 Night Serum ($150). This formula contains a trifecta of trendy and trusted hero ingredients. There’s melatonin, of course, which serves to stimulate protection against free radicals, pollution, and UV radiation. Then, there’s bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative that’s had the beauty world abuzz recently. Last, but certainly not least, there’s Vitamin C, which rounds out this antioxidant powerhouse.

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