Description

A vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.

The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.

Location

Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.

Protection

The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Nuts are not really needed, but double tcu's #1 and #2 and double Camalots from .5 purple up to a number 2 gold are what you need. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.

Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.

One time I was at the Glass and kept finding shiny bail gear with a particular marking- black electrical tape. At the belay 'brow on Dinkus Dog-a keyhole slot a couple feet wide that would take just about any nut on the rack in bomber fashion- the bailers had apparently rapped off a small TCU, crammed over in the pinched-off left corner of the eyebrow. It looked like an A3 placement at best. Next to this, of course, was the kind of no-brainer slot at which any gumby with half a brain could merely wave a biner full of nuts and enjoy a trucker belay off the half-dozen stoppers trapped behind the lip.

Anyhow, the route is among the best around and if it's in your range, you should give it a go. Maybe I'm just a chickenshit but I wandered all over the place on the first pitch and recall wishing I had double ropes.

I jumped on this one yesterday for a nice long weekend finishing route. It is definitely my favorite eyebrow route I've climbed on the glass, fun moves the whole way and well protected once you've spent some time plugging eyebrows. I also found the route to be pretty straight forward, a single rope and 2 foot runners posed no rope drag problem (though doubles will save you from having to drag a trailer up for the rappel). The only unpleasant spot was due to my screwing up and making the first belay in a horizontal about 7 feet to the right of where I came up the first pitch. That resulted in a hanging belay that I could have done without, especially after discovering that if I'd pushed it another 5 feet, I would have found the perfect eyebrow that would eat nuts, tri-cams, and cams and allowed a perfectly comfortable stance.

I guess my overall point is that this is an excellent route, poses no serious falling danger, and the eyebrow 4 feet above the horizontal seam for your first belay will save your back, legs, and toes a lot of grief.

the best way to do dinkus is all in one pitch. most of the smallish gear goes in over the first 50 or so feet and medium gear goes in over the last 70. you'll easily make the double bolt anchors but a second 60m rope is necessary for the rap. a very pleasant outing.

Great slab/face route! Agree with Jeep that doing it one pitch is the best way -- makes for one long cool stretch of climbing.

Since I only had one rope today I figured I'd try to get down with just that and it worked out fine with some shenanigans. 3 short and rightward traversing raps, with the last rap being from the anchors on Mettle Detector (just right of Fat Dog). However, it looked easier to simply do 2 raps using the tree half way down and left from the top. But I can't say for sure since I didn't actually do it.