BACKGROUND: I picked up a Model L Gravely walking tractor with the little 30" brush hog style mower in front. The seller mentioned it had been sitting outside and had not run for 7 years that he knew of. Thought it might be fun taking it apart and attempting to getting it running. Soooo, he got $20 and I got the bucket of rust. I can hand turn the motor through 3 of the 4 strokes. I canot turn it thru the exhaust stroke so I assume the exhaust valve is frozen. To get at the exhaust valve with Kroil I need to remove the manifold which is held on with two bolts (less problem than removing the head). I have been soaking the bolts for 3 days with Kroil, they won't budge, I don't want to twist them off (3/8") and the only heat I have access to is a propane torch. QUESTION: Any tips for removing exhaust manifold bolts which are probably heat welded as well as rusted in place??? Thanks Guys. Joe.

If you have room you can try a nut splitter on them. I have 2 of them (1-large & 1-small) that split good on soft nuts. Or you also could carefully grind 1 side down and finish with a chisel. If its a Gravely its well worth fixin.

"OOPS", I goofed. I just reread your post and I see you are working on removing bolts not nuts.

Joe. It may also be worth it to take the head off, (Just to clean everything up). Gravely head gaskets are still readily available. You can get a good look at the piston top and the two valve seats. I love the way those one lungers are put together. Very simple. Then replace the head bolts when re-assembling.

Ron - Yeah, you are probably right. What I was trying to do in advance of that step was strap spin the motor to see if the Bendix magneto was any good. But, I can't spin the motor till the exhaust valve is freed up and I can't soak the valve properly till the exhaust manifold is removed and the two frozen manifold bolts are preventing removal of the manifold. Sooo, without knowing anything else to do I am continuing to soak the bolts with Kroil.