Another night spent listening to the groans and creaks of a glacier, although this time we also had the gentle lapping of the lakeside to mix in. Sure beats listening to traffic driving past and construction workers in a battle with your alarm clock to see who can annoy you…

Emerging from the cocoon into the early morning frost, I step outside and get the water boiling for breakfast. Looking about I see that the strategically placed rubbish bag from last night – cleverly hung 2m from the ground to avoid any possibility of bears, foxes or wolves getting at…

Damn generator was thumping away all night about 4 metres from our tent! While supposedly to heat the regugio for the few fortunate souls able to afford the extortionate rent from the bitter cold and wind raging outside, we were promised that it would be powered down at 11pm. By…

Another bus, another early morning.. This time we’re all packed and prepared for 4 days hiking – or so we hope.. The sunshine and warmth of the past few days has devolved into a windy, rainy and generally gloomy outlook, perfect for camping! The bus drops us off at the…

We left Cobanaconde by 9am, early by our standards but apparently not early enough according the merciless Peruvian sun (second only in power to Queensland – true fact!). Just outside of town we found the start of the trail down into the canyon and began our descent. We could see…