FOOD/CONDIMENTS.

'tis The Seasoning

Relish These Thoughts On Spices And Sauces

Condiments! Our refrigerator doors and pantry shelves are full of them: mustard and ketchup, of course, but strange and exotic products as well that go untouched for years.

There's a reason condiments are so popular. Adding a dab or two on the plate, a spoonful or two in the sauce or salad provides a different flavor and feel, and a fresh take on familiar foods. Condiments are easy to purchase and fun to create in your own kitchen.

For instance, at a Treasure Island store recently I purchased mango honey mustard from Harrison Napa Valley ($4.98 for 9.5 ounces). I have served it beside cold cuts and turned it into honey mustard-mayonnaise as well as a honey mustard sauce for use with smoked fish, salad and chicken or shrimp sandwiches.

I bought a small can of harissa too ($1.19 for 4.9 ounces). This is the fiery but intriguing Tunisian condiment much talked of now that North Africa is in the culinary spotlight. I also made some and then created a salad of smoked and poached fish that includes both harissa and mango honey mustard.

Two condiments I am playing with but don't have space to explore here are Sharwood's tandoori spice ($4.59 for 4 ounces) and A La Mara "gourmazing" artichoke sauce ($4.98 for 16 ounces). There's a delightful tandoori chicken recipe on the label of the former that contains only six ingredients. Also, I've added some of the spice mixture to the onion/arugula relish below to make a condiment for pork, veal or broiled eggplant slices.

The artichoke sauce, combined with tomato, is lovely on pasta, but I'm dreaming of serving it over poached eggs posed on English muffins as a brunch entree.

1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small skillet and saute the garlic until soft, without letting it color, about 1 minute.

2. In a food processor or a mortar with a pestle, puree the chilies with the coriander, caraway and garlic plus 2 teaspoons water and 2 additional tablespoons olive oil. (More water and olive oil may be needed.)

3. If not using immediately, pack tightly in a small jar and top with olive oil to cover. Refrigerate.

Note: If using New Mexico chilies, remove the stems and seeds and soak in warm water for 10 to 20 minutes. Wrap in cheesecloth and press well to remove as much liquid as possible. Then proceed as described above. No additional water is needed.

1. Fill a skillet three-quarters full of water. Add 1 tablespoon distilled vinegar or lemon juice (to keep fish white) and bring water to a boil. Reduce heat to low, add the fillets in a single layer (cook them in batches, if necessary) and poach gently for 10 minutes, or until fish flakes easily.

2. Remove the fillets with a slotted spatula to a cutting board or platter and allow to cool. Pat dry, remove skin and flake the cooked fish into a bowl, discarding any bones.

3. Add onion, cucumber and smoked shrimp and mussels to the fish. Make a dressing by whisking together the mustard, mayonnaise, lime juice, harissa and salt. Stir the dressing into the fish mixture until thoroughly combined. Taste and correct seasoning with lime juice, harissa and salt, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve, at least 30 minutes.

4. Arrange the shredded lettuce on a large platter or individual plates. Mound the fish salad over the lettuce. Garnish with cherry tomatoes.

MANGO HONEY MUSTARD SAUCE

Makes about 1/2 cup

3 tablespoons mango honey mustard

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon concentrate garlic paste or roasted garlic puree

10 drops hot pepper sauce, or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons salad oil

1. In a small bowl, combine the mustard, lemon juice, garlic paste, hot sauce and pepper. Whisk in the oil slowly. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.