Yogurt has become the sensible baby food of adult culture. In its popular form--the too-small single-serving container, the chintzy tinfoil lid, the stagnant slurry of inexplicable liquid on top, the scant puree of bland fruit on bottom--each bite is less satisfying, more without substance, than the last.

Greek yogurt, on the other hand, has some heft. It is strained, meaning the whey is separated and removed. Its texture is sturdy, its flavor as thick and tart as sour cream. Each spoonful is a bite, not a compromise. A small bowl of the stuff at breakfast, drizzled with honey, bears no resemblance to the pabulum that we know as yogurt, but instead looks for all the world like an elaborate dessert. Better yet, it tastes that way, too. And while it has some fat, it's not without health benefits. Greek yogurt (available in a brand called Total) is loaded with Lactobacillus acidophilus, a natural bacteria that aids digestion by keeping intestinal flora in balance.

Greek yogurt is food, not a substitute for food. It makes you realize that yogurt ought to be considered a sort of essential, elemental offering, a daily delicacy, rather than a soupy, unsatisfying, parsed-out staple for obnoxious skinny people.