Alpine Climb Aguja Guillaumet

DATA SHEET

Itinerary

Day 1

(PIEDRA NEGRA)
Transfer from El Chaltén to Eléctrico River (15 km), where we will start the approach along the Eléctrico valley. After we get to “Piedra del Fraile”, we will head up to the bivouac site “Piedra Negra” (1600m/a/s/l ). It will take us about 5-6 hours with an elevation gain of about 1000 meters. The terrain is steep and there is plenty of scree in the last portion of the walk.

Day 2

(SUMMIT ATTEMPT)
We will have an early wake up around 2 AM to prepare for our summit attempt. After a good cup of coffee we´ll head up to “Paso Guillaumet” (2000 m/a/s/l), going along a small glacier and mixed terrain of rock and snow. From this pass, we will use the “Amy route”, which is on the East face and starts with a 200 meters-couloir of ice and snow, with an average of 50°-60° slope.
The route continues with 4 pitches of rock climbing class IV and V, and finishes with a snow ramp to reach the summit (2574 m/a/s/l). For the descent, we will rappel down to the start of the route and then walk down back to the “Piedra Negra” bivouac site. The complete activity will take us about 14 to 16 hours with a 1000 meters of elevation gain.
Note: An alternative route could be the Fonrouge ridge.

Day 3

3 (PIEDRA EL FRAILE/CHALTÉN)
Return to the Eléctrico river bridge (4-5hs) then transfer back to El Chaltén.