[NO] Car physics differ between Thrustmaster TX and Logitech G920?

I have an Xbox One X with a Thrustmaster TX wheel (T3PA pedals). My friend have an Xbox One X with a Logitech G920 wheel (default pedals).

I have now had some extensive time with my friends rig and can only come to the conclusion that there is a real physical difference driving with the to wheels in PC2. I wouldn't expect this to be possible but cannot really explain things in any other way.

No matter what car or what ffb settings I choose on the G920 it's quite driveable. Right now we have it set as follows, and it works great.

On the TX wheel it's quite a different story though. There if I can drive a car safely is very much depending on what ffb settings I choose. I have found some ffb settings that work decently with most cars, as the ones below. But I certainly can find better ones if I adjust for the specific car in question. Example of 10 cars with very different ffb reuquirements are the BAC Mono, Radical SR8, Porsche Cayman, Formula X, Nissan Skyline Super Silhouette, BMW E30 M3, Caterham Seven 620, Jaguar XJR-9 LM, Renault Clio Cup and Ferrari 488 GT3. At least I have a very difficult time finding common ffb setting that works for all of them.

I have tried a lot of different ffb settings in all flavours. Currently I run RAW (rest same as above) since me and my friend corrently race againt each other mainly in the Ferrari 488 GTE and this work best for me in that car.

Anyway sorry for the lenghty prelude. Now back to the point I was trying to make, that there is a physical difference driving the cars in the game using the two wheels. As I mentioned we currently drive the Ferrari 488 GTE (downforce set at +1 both front and back), and one track were it's quite obvious that there is a difference is Sakitto GP, especially in the curve leading in to the dunlop curve (nr 7?) and the spoon curve (nr 13?).

When using the G920 I can take the dunlop curve flat out. I simply cannot do this with the TX. Then I just slowly slide outwards until the car goes out of bounds. And arriving at the spoon curve I must break just before the 50m sign using the T3PA pedals but can break, just, after when using the Logitech pedals. This can perhaps simply be that the Logitech pedals are better. I tried adjusting the break sensitivity and it can help a bit but too much and the car becomes unstable. The main problem is the spoon curve itself however. Once more with the G920 wheel I can brake, steer through the corner, and power away out of it without any problems. Even if I touch the curbs I just lift of the breaks or gas pedal slightly, and carry on. With the TX it's another matter though. The backend just looses itself, very easily. Touching the curbs is almost insta-kill (the back-end is just gone). The car is simply not very stable at all when trying to push through this curve aggressively using the TX wheel.

On both wheels I've manged 1.41- times. Actually low 41-s on the TX but much much more work and grief to get that time than I did achieving the 41-s time using the G920 (a handful of laps, and this is not my daily wheel remember).

So to make a very long story short :-D . Have anyone else experienced this that had the opportunity to try both wheels?

I suggest to make videos of driving with both wheels, with the telemetry HUD enabled during driving. This way, we can compare pedal and steering input, FFB and the tyre temperatures.
Also, make sure that with both wheels you manually load the car setup before driving, to make sure you're using identical setups.

There is no code in the game that says to use different physics modeling depending on the steering wheel. The technical capabilities of different wheels could influence the interaction between physics engine, FFB and player, perhaps also due to running into processing limits of the console, so hopefully those videos give us a hint of what's going on.

Well I may do a video someday, when I finally manage to actually do one! Never tried so not sure how to on the Xbox.

The setup is not the reason. We have run default up until this weekend, and just now changed to the +1 downforce. But I suppose I can include that in the video so you don't have to take my word on it. And yes I wouldn't expect the physics to be different, it's just the easiest way to describe what I feel and how the car behaves with the two wheels.

If I could I suppose changing the pedals around would be very interesting to try, ie G920 with T3PA and TX with the Logitech pedals. Just to see if it's the wheel or in fact the pedals that makes most of the difference.

I would put the main blame on myself (in combination with the different wheels) but I find it hard to see how it could explain all the difference. I tried many cars and almost all I can set a "decent" time straight away using the G920 whatever the ffb settings, and quite a few cars I cannot event take around the track with the TX without a number of attempts and/or change of ffb settings.

I do have PC2 for Windows, however right now unfortunately I still don't have a computer fast enough to run it, even decently and on low settings. But looking forward to it.

So once more to summarize. How do one then make a video (I have external drive if that helps) and how do I get it on a PC so I can upload it to youtube (I guess)? Would appreciate if someone could explain shortly, or point to some guide perhaps?

I just started doing videos.
Just push xb button in game, select dvr, record, take drive to pc, upload to yt directly.

Dont bother capturing in HDR as you tube ruins it. 4k is ok but files are big.

If you want to capture in lower res only you can use the xb drive as an ordinary drive formatted on the xb then it can also hold games.
If you want to capture in 4k you need to format the drive to ntsc on a pc and you will not be able to use it for games.

I have a tx wheel on the xbox one x, never used the logitech. What I experience, as trudd described, is the loose rear end when going over kerbs. With a controller I seem to be able to find a suspension setup that will be able to ride kerbs ok, however with the tx wheel I can't. No matter what kerb, high med or low speed, on throttle neutral or off, same result - car spins! If the wheel is pretty much straight then maybe I have a chance of catching the slide, otherwise round she goes! Never figured it out, just have to try and keep away from the curbs which aint so easy when you are racing close to the car in front.

I also have similar issues with the same kit and driving experience. I just put this down to me being crud but it's good to know there are others feeling the same thing.
I've just tried to drive around it, adjust settings etc
But perhaps we can figure out something together, just don't look at my lap times

I have a TX, and the kerbs feel like merry-go-rounds. More often than not, they send me spinning. I'm not experienced enough to claim that something is off, but it feels weird. I have to avoid the kerbs a lot more than the AI (mostly play in career). Interesting to hear others with similar issues.

Well that was quite a bit harder to do that expected (the upload from Xbox, and upload to Youtube parts). I could not get the 5 min recording to work so you all have to do with 3 min videos.

It was not so easy to manage to capture, what I was trying to describe earlier, on video. I did manage to record hitting the curbs using the TX wheel and how the car then behaves (see TX Test 2, starting around the 2:30 mark). I also recorded two of my numerous tests with the Logitech wheel, where I did my best to drive the car of the track. Didn't really manage anything similar to what happens when using the Thrustmaster wheel though.

Not sure if you can tell the difference in general grip I had using the two wheels as well? In many faster corners the car skid/slide through them, using the TX wheel, but in the same corners using the G920 wheel the car is, almost, planted to the road. Also I do manage to steer into the corners safely (not optimal perhaps) using the G920 wheel/pedals even if I break later than I can manage using the TX wheel/pedals.

Now how much is due to my own driving, the steering wheel, the pedals or indeed something in the wheel/game interaction I cannot really tell. My guess as I mentioned is that this can partly be a combination of my driving style and the wheel/pedals combination I use. But it's still the same driver using both wheels. I run them both on Xbox One X and same car settings and, as close as I can, same ffb settings. And I find it implausible that this could explain all the difference in handling difficulty. Not impossible but to me unlikely.

Anyway below is the link to my Youtube channel (right now only these test uploaded there). Not sure they are of any help but hopefully they can shed at least some light on what is going on? Would appreciate if anyone had the time to spare and take a look.

I also have similar issues with the same kit and driving experience. I just put this down to me being crud but it's good to know there are others feeling the same thing.
I've just tried to drive around it, adjust settings etc
But perhaps we can figure out something together, just don't look at my lap times