RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

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and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped. This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator. Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route. Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!

Protection

A mix of sizes from yellow aliens through #3 camalot with an emphasis on #2 camalots (5 will do). A #4 camalot will protect the OW at the top.

Yellow camalots (2.5") protect the route most of the way, bat take a few blues (3.5"). If you want to lower off of, rap, or TR this climb on a single rope, you better have a 70M. I have climbed harder 10+ routes, by the way. The crux is either the very beginning where it is thin, or the slightly wider section just prior to passing the top of the bulge.

[I apologize if I sounded like I was spraying. I fully admit that I like to spray. I believe that I have only down-rated 2 climbs on this board - this one and Incredible Handcrack. In the case of IH, I said something along the lines of the route being around 9+ for most people, but harder for those with either really small or really large hands. Many on this board, including myself, have noted that the ratings at the Creek are subjective. That being said, I still believe that this climb is NOT 11+. Mr. Bubb also concurs in the previous comment. I am comparing this climb to several others in the 11 range at the Creek. At any rate, both this climb and Incredible Handcrack are very sexy and most people should not be too intimidated by their grades. If you are comfortable leading 11- here, then definitely consider giving this one a try.]

The new Indian Creek Guidebook rates it 5.11. Although there isn't any compulsory hard 5.11 move on the route, the overall continuity and angle, combined with the cleverness required to optimise the rests past the roof, justifies a 5.11 grade for the average hand size. But most important, it's a suberb line!

i dunno, small hands kinda suck on this thing. i dont really have any trouble on a majority of 5.11s, but i was panting on this thing. i think 11- is sandbagging, the roof is harder than other 11-s of the same style (think pink comes to mind.) then you got all of the other climbing that sandwiches it. granted ive climbed other harder 11s, but i think solid 11 is fair, and possibly 11+? i really dont know, nor do i really care. the route is freaking superb.

Rope mgmt. beta: Place a thin-hands sized piece (probably red camalot) in the splitter to the left of the corner, just after you leave the overhanging hands corner. This will keep the rope out of the crack.

Great climb! One of my favorites in the desert. Variety of sizes in an incredible crack, starts small then goes to perfect hands in the steep section. Transfer cracks at the top of the steep section (agreed, place a red camelot in the thin hand crack on the left. Don't forget to save a couple small pieces for the upper section.