6th Arrondisement

St. Germain

The 6th arrondissement is, above all things, inspiring. Saint Germain has been the muse of scholars, artists, existentialists, bohemians, and politicians. Its shaded avenues and quiet side streets centrifuge into the spinning café scene on the Boulevard Saint‐Germain. Intellectuals and the glitterati preen and mingle with scruffy expat writers at the Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots.

You cannot avoid the siren’s song of Saint‐Germain‐des‐Près. Submit to her charms. Welcome to the land of the lotus‐eaters.

While many tours of Saint‐Germain start from landmarks Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots, why not try something different? Begin off the main drag of Boulevard Saint‐Germain at the Bar du Marché at 75 Rue du Seine. To get there, take the metro to Odéon (4). Exit the station and follow Boulevard Saint‐Germain in the opposite direction of traffic. Turn right on Rue de Seine. The Bar du Marché is at the intersection of Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine.

Swing by Taschen bookstore next door on Rue de Buci. Get lost among the publisher’s enormous catalog of art, design, and architecture “coffee table books”.

Irresistible shopping is due west along the Boulevard Saint Germain. Notable indie boutiques are the through‐the‐looking‐glass jeweler Servane Gaxotte (55 Rue des Saints Pères), Mona (17 Rue Bonaparte) where you can drop a month’s rent on Pierre Hardy and Lanvin, and the must‐see Arty Dandy (1 Place Furstemburg) situated on picturesque Place Furstemburg.

«Dandyism is the last spark of heroism amid decadence,» said Baudelaire. This poetic nugget sums up the mischievous concept shop‐slash‐art gallery to a “T”. Rhinestone‐encrusted Karl Lagerfeld bobble head dolls, home accessories from your crazy aunt’s house, and off the wall jewelry are Arty Dandy’s calling cards.

Also on the Place Furstemburg is the Musée National Eugène Delacroix. The museum is a testament to the artist’s legacy in France. Delacroix devotees can appreciate the permanent collection and studio while non‐believers can explore the romantic garden.

The nearby café La Palette is tucked away on the Rue de Seine. Sip an espresso amidst the movers and shakers of the Saint‐Germain art and gallery scene.

Technically, the Luxembourg Gardens are the front yard of the French Senate. Built by the Medicis the garden is the largest public space in the 6th arrondissement. A reflecting pond, pony rides, and secret grottos keep old and young entertained for hours.

To the west of the Luxembourg gardens, the area around the Eglise Saint‐ Sulpice is known far and wide for its gourmet pâtisseries, candy shops, and posh department store Le Bon Marché.

Find the Rue de Vaugirard (the Three Musketeers, anyone?) and walk west toward the Boulevard Raspail. Take a detour up the Rue du Cherche Midi to the adorable candy shop, salon de thé, and collectibles shop Mamie Gâteaux. The owners are Japanese and the aesthetic is nostalgic francophilia a go‐go.

Head towards the Seine and Quai Voltaire. There is nothing like a stroll along the quais. Spring, summer, or fall, the scene is breathtaking. Explore the wooden footbridge the Pont des Arts and its stellar 360° view of the river.

On the subject of dining, Saint‐Germain should be embarrassed – by its riches, that is!

L’Avant Comptoir is highly recommended pre‐dinner. If Chef Yves Camdeborde is the pope of “bistronomy”, and Le Comptoir is his temple, then L’Avant Comptoir is his Saint Chappelle. The tiny standing‐room‐only wine bar pours excellent wines by the glass, and proffers Camdeborde’s favorites – croquettes with Iberian ham, tubs of Bordier butter, and seasonal bar food make L’Avant Comptoir the Clark Kent of wine‐bars.

Fresh, luscious oysters are king at Huîterie Regis. Searching for something more adventurous? L’Epigramme is known for snout‐to‐tail cuisine mixed with contemporary French bistro fare. The exposed limestone walls add a romantic touch to the elegant décor. On the Rue du Cherche-Midi, find traditional JosephineChez Dumonet, where you can enjoy old-school French favourites in classic surrounds.

Your sweet tooth will be satisfied by chocolates from the man in cocoa – Patrick Roger on the Boulevard Saint‐Germain. Pierre Hermé’s tiny pâtisserie by Saint Sulpice church has a permanent queue for his blue ribbon croissants and desserts that are too pretty to eat.

As for nightlife, le freak c’est chic. Get down at Jane Club or Théâtre Saint-Germain. Much of the magic happens at the bustling late‐night cafés along the Rue de Buci. Grab a front‐row table for a fashion show unlike any other, and join the Parisians checking out the passers by. Pheromones intensify with every cigarette smoked and soon the street pulses with revelers.

The ever‐fashionable Saint‐Germain is impossible to resist. Abandon yourself to the spell of the 6th arrondissement ‐ profitez!

If Chef Yves Camdeborde is the pope of “bistronomy”, and Le Comptoir is his temple, then L’Avant Comptoir is his Saint Chappelle. The tiny standing‐room‐only wine bar pours excellent selections by the glass, and proffers Camdeborde’s favorites – croquettes with Iberian ham, tubs of Bordier butter, and seasonal bar food make L’Avant Comptoir the Clark Kent of wine‐bars.

«Dandyism is the last spark of heroism amid decadence,» said Baudelaire. This poetic nugget sums up the tongue in cheek concept shop slashart gallery to a T. Rhinestone‐encrusted Karl Lagerfeld bobblehead dolls, home accessories from your crazy aunt’s house, and off the wall jewelry are Arty Dandy’s calling cards.

Posted on February 17, 2017 by VINGT Editorial

There’s a surprising number of English-language bookshops in Paris that are just as enchanting as their French counterparts – and perfect for when you’re through with the passé simple… Words: Caroline… Read more

Posted on November 7, 2015 by VINGT Editorial

Posted on May 22, 2015 by VINGT Editorial

Words and Images: Jill Pope If it sometimes feels like the bohemian hey day of the 6th and 7th arrondissements is behind it, Restaurant Sauvage has brought back a rather contemporary reinterpretation of… Read more

Posted on May 22, 2015 by VINGT Editorial

Words: Jill Pope Who would guess that this calm and stately quartier, cloistered between the 5th, 6th, 7th and 14th arrondissements around Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Rennes, was home to some to… Read more

Posted on March 5, 2008 by Susie Hollands

Image: Flickr Undoubtedly one of Paris’ most famous pâtissiers – the macarons are the most celebrated offering but the whole selection and presentation is delicious. Constantly updating his flavours means there… Read more

Featured District

Batignolles

The 17th arrondissement is best known for the up and coming neighborhood the Batignolles. Parisians are drawn to the Batignolles by the promise of a small town atmosphere and, very importantly, no tourists.…Read more