I am trying to get a 66 283 running .
After thinking I had it on TDC and could not get it going I made a dead stop and found that TDC is about 1" --1 1/4" below the timing guide . Where would I set the rotor pointing to account for this and just get it running ? Move #1 over to 2 or 7 ?? Do I just move the "new" TDC up to the existing mark and set rotor to #1 as usual ?

My uneducated guess is it jumped time and I need to reset the timing chain ? but for now just want to get it going .
Thanks
Dan

Looking for any information on the Chevy One Ton Humpback Panel truck.... Anything would be helpfull

Timing mark change 68-69 on both the balancer and the timing cover. If either one was changed, that would account for the mark movement. Cam chain jump has nothing to do with TDC. Covers and balancers sold today are 69 and later version. They have to be changed together or a new mark has to be bolted to the cover or the other way around. And sometimes the rubber on the balancer get hard and the outer ring slips.

Timing mark change 68-69 on both the balancer and the timing cover. If either one was changed, that would account for the mark movement. Cam chain jump has nothing to do with TDC. Covers and balancers sold today are 69 and later version. They have to be changed together or a new mark has to be bolted to the cover or the other way around. And sometimes the rubber on the balancer get hard and the outer ring slips.

Thanks !! this explains a lot .. Any idea where the "new " TDC would be .. I moved it up to the 'OLD' mark and it seems to want to fire but doesn't [ turns out "new" mark only 1/4 " from "old " mark ] I KNOW I can do this but bout ready to give it up ....:bdh: lol
Thanks
Dan

Looking for any information on the Chevy One Ton Humpback Panel truck.... Anything would be helpfull

Why don't you just static time it? Turn the engine by hand till it is on true TDC. Use or make a TDC finder for this. Then use a multimeter or test light to see if the points are open or closed. If closed, rotate the dist CCW until the points just open and tighten the dist clamp. If open, rotate CW until closed and then CCW until just open and tighten the clamp. This should get you close enough for the engine to start and then you can do the final setting with a timing light.

Btw, this should be obvious, but just in case it isn't, make sure you are on #1 when you do this and not #6. In other words, both pistons are at TDC at the same time, but only one of them will be on compression.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

If your balancer was changed to the newer version, speed shops sell a bolt on mark for the timing cover to put the mark in the correct spot. If you use a finder, it screws into the #1 plug hole and you rotate the engine one way till it stops. Mark that spot on the balancer. Now rotate in the other direction till it stops and mark that spot. Now measure between the two spots and that is TDC.

Dan, I think it might be best to get the engine running first on the points before you install the Pertronix. In case you run into any problems, you don't want to be dealing with two unknowns at the same time.

Ray

Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

Dan, I think it might be best to get the engine running first on the points before you install the Pertronix. In case you run into any problems, you don't want to be dealing with two unknowns at the same time.

Ray

Ray I went back to the basics , I built a piston stop ...found TDC and then got it on the compression stroke [ both valves lose ] and still no start ....[ wanted to ]

After a brief try with a cheap fleabay distributer , I bought the pertronic points replace thing .... it fired right up ..

Eventually I will figure out the old distributor but for now I am trying to figure out the ampmeter wiring.. so I have another question HERE