Contentious, independent and fiercely protective of this city's vanishing Latino culture and traditions, Mayor Debbie Jaramillo is not for those who like their civic leaders warm and fuzzy. Jaramillo, 42, was elected in March on a pledge to reverse trends that in less than a decade had transformed this 384-year-old former Spanish settlement on the southern flanks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains into an enclave for wealthy tourists and transplants.

Contentious, independent and fiercely protective of this city's vanishing Latino culture and traditions, Mayor Debbie Jaramillo is not for those who like their civic leaders warm and fuzzy. Jaramillo, 42, was elected in March on a pledge to reverse trends that in less than a decade had transformed this 384-year-old former Spanish settlement on the southern flanks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains into an enclave for wealthy tourists and transplants.

Sam Pick, the mayor of Santa Fe, N.M., cooks tacos on television these days--even though he feels he's better with turkeys. But that's a small problem compared to sneaking his favorite cologne--Santa Fe by Shulton--into view. He has been on the road 3 1/2 weeks now, and "80% of the people on the shows don't even know the cologne is behind this," the mayor said, grinning with glee as he settles into a chair at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

Sam Pick, the mayor of Santa Fe, N.M., cooks tacos on television these days--even though he feels he's better with turkeys. But that's a small problem compared to sneaking his favorite cologne--Santa Fe by Shulton--into view. He has been on the road 3 1/2 weeks now, and "80% of the people on the shows don't even know the cologne is behind this," the mayor said, grinning with glee as he settles into a chair at the Beverly Hills Hotel.