It is probably bad form to pull you away from this forum to my blog, but I really don't want to rewrite and post the pics again.

I just finished modding one of the stainless lids with a CIP head - and connected the Chill Wizard Pump inline with my spare march pump to get enough pressure to spin it. Works well! All parts from Brewer's Hardware and less than $100 shipped.

I have been hesitant to modify anything else significantly, and I don't use the lids all that much. The biggest investment was in the parts - the rest I had handy here. It took maybe 20 minutes to drill out the lid - I might offset an inch or so from the lid handle next time and avoid that welded screw. Use gloves and eye protection (of course) - the bit could bind and spin that lid if its not secure. Used a step bit.

The thing is that only when I break down the system and can examine all of the nooks and crannies up close do I feel I get the kettles truly clean. I don't think my in-place scrubbing and re-circulation process is thorough as I may miss some spots. Fortunately this is pre-boil - so not all that concerned, but even a moderate CIP after I wipe the interiors down will at least reach most of the places that I might miss reaching into the kettle... and I can set and let it run for 30 minutes or so - and be wiping down the next kettle.

I am going to experiment this Monday with some caustic and acid wash from a local brewery to see how well this does. My biggest concern is the lack of pressure. The spray head in their 7 barrel bright takes between 30-50 PSI and puts out some serious pressure, and they usually ramp up the acid wash to the top end. So I will be more reliant on the chemistry to clean than the pressure washing effects. Of course - too much pressure and I will need a mechanism to hold the lid down since they fit a bit loosely.

I also set this lid over the opening in my conical the other day - that worked a charm. I am looking at how to use this with the FV and Sanke as well.

Actually, something like this for a Sanke would be great. I have two Sanke kegs that I just started to use for fermenting (going glass free). A CIP ball on a SS lid that is clamped to the keg would be very nice.

I can say that the kettles are far cleaner than they were with just a scrub down. After recirc of hot PBW, the little areas I missed wiping down were very visible, and literally just a pass with the scrubby eliminated them.

I think I am going to have switch from star-san. It just foamed like the dickens - and while I suppose that is ok - I prefer to rinse the foam out of the kettles. That took longer than I expected.

A couple of notes - I left the plate chiller inline today and running 150F PBW extracted some pretty nasty stuff. The cleaning water was minty green - so I feel like that is a positive - and I was able to also run the same stuff through the BK after - it went fairly well. With all that foam, it was tough figuring out how much was left in the kettle. Started in the MLT - then transfered to the BK through the CIP head. Lost the prime on the pump swapping the lead connector to the BK.

That left me the time to clean up the wet vac and wipe down the outside of the kettles. I did run some cold rinse through after the star-san, and through the heat exchanger - and drained dry.

All in all - very happy. I need to work through procedures a bit more - and figure out the foam thing. I didn't use the caustic and acid wash yet - that might be preferable. Better use of the PBW and Star-san. Less mess on the floor of the garage.