Eventually it happens to all Z32's. The silicon
bushings on the tension rods start leaking resulting in poor handling.
Usually pulling to one side during braking, or nose-diving in corners.
Replacing them with OEM tension rods will cure the problem temporarily,
but they will fall to the same fate eventually. The ultimate solution is
a set of adjustable tension rods. This gets rid of the bushing problem
by replacing it with a solid bushing & allows caster adjustments due
to the adjustable length. The only 'real' alignment adjustment on the front
of a stock Z is the toe-in.

This replacement was done on a '91 TT.

Timing:Right before getting a 4 wheel alignment, you'll more than likely have
to get one afterwards.

Special Tools:Air impact wrench
Torque wrench

Install:

1. Jack up the front of the car & put it on jackstands observing
all safety measures.

2. Remove the lower engine shielding (7 x 10mm), there is 1 bolt on
the extreme left and right sides. (1.)

3. Read the rest of the procedure to see what bolts/nuts will be removed
& spray them with a penetrating lubricant. I recommend 'Blaster' brand.

7. Take out the whole assembly on each side (5.). Remove the
pivot bolt (17mm bolt, 17mm nut on each) to get the tension rod out.

8. For adjustable tension rods: The adjustable tension rods allow for
caster adjustments, which is not adjustable stock. These are the first
generation SGP tension
rods (6.). These are the second generation SGP
tension rods (7.). Run the bolt through the stock rod into the adjustable.
Run the shafts parallel and check the length of the adjustables against
the old stock ones to get close to the correct length (8.). This
will at least be good enough to get to the alignment shop for proper adjustment
without chewing a month off the tire life. The bolts only go through the
bracket one direction, the washers go on the outside, only the cones and
the rod go inside the bracket (9.). Build up both sides. Torque
pivot bolts to 80-100 ft-lbs, skip to step 10.

11. Pull the front wheels forward to engage the studs into the lower
control arm . Then torque the nuts on the studs (11.) to 80-94 ft-lbs
for all but convertable, which requires 69-83 ft-lbs. torque.

12. Have the car aligned. There's a slight amount of play in the bracket
holes, so things have moved around. If adjustables were installed, things
have definitely been shifted. Also make sure to tighten the locknut(s)
on the adjustables.

Notes:The air impact wrench makes this job MUCH easier. It probably can be
done with out one, but I highly recommend having one to remove the parts.