Mara Hoffman isn’t afraid to take her inspirations literally. Willie Nelson was the starting point for her Spring collection, and you could sense it from the first look: Nelson’s beloved song “Blue Skies” was playing, and the set was decorated with a bright sky backdrop that mirrored the model’s own sky-print suit. The girls even sported Nelson’s signature waist-length braids, in case you didn’t pick up on the reference. But the musician has a very particular take on Americana, which presented a new challenge for Hoffman, whose print-heavy collections are known for being exotic. She updated Levi's by embroidering them with cornstalks and experimented with classic shirting silhouettes, but she also made a point of casting diverse models to represent America’s rich blend of cultures.

What really felt new for Hoffman, though, were the tomboy looks. Slouchy overalls, boxy suits with bolo ties, and button-down shirts with popped collars were some of the most masculine clothes she’s done, but she was drawing from her own personal style: “My collections are really feminine, but more often than not I’m in vintage jeans and a shirt buttoned all the way up,” she said. Of course, that can be really sexy: Even Hoffman’s most covered-up propositions, like the closing look—a sheer, star-embroidered shirtdress layered over matching wide-leg pants—felt alluring in an unexpected way.