The Worm’s up and wiggling on the River Walk

The jazz legend operated from the Landing on the River Walk for nearly 50 years. The spot at the bottom of the Hyatt Regency Hotel is also where Cullum’s band once broadcasted the public radio show “Riverwalk Jazz.”

In 2009, Cullum sold the business to Chris Erck, owner of Swig Martini Bar one block west. It never really worked out: Erck as owner, Cullum as the talent. Cullum now inhabits downtown joints various nights of the week.

A week ago, Erck reopened the spot as a tequila-driven bar called The Worm.

Landing regulars will recognize the basic structure intact. They kept the corner stage, as well as the floor and balcony seating. The biggest addition is a zig-zag bar against the back that mimics the shape of the balcony. It seems big enough to support large crowds, but then again Tuesday night’s crowd — while impressive for a school night — didn’t truly test the new establishment’s space capability.

The decor is all kinds of hot pink. It’s not a grotesque saturation or an assault on the eyes, but there’s definitely enough of it for you to notice. The bar and stool heights are perfectly calibrated. You don’t feel like a hobbit while saddled up to it. And the stools — the chair kinds with button-upholstered backrests that hug you 180 degrees — prop you a little more than usual.

The seating alone might put The Worm at the top of the list of downtown bars and clubs in terms of capacity. General manager Michael Teran said it seats nearly 300 people between the floor seating, the balcony, a larger patio space on the river bank and, above it, a newly-built deck with a killer view of people strolling the River Walk, which always reminded me of ants walking their traces if the ants weren’t so workmanlike and instead moved like house cats, who don’t do $#!@.

The kiln-looking stone structure at the entrance has been demolished. Don’t fret. It looked like the relic of something from a bygone era, but it actually was built in the ’80s. They hope to have an outdoor bar there up and running in 3-4 weeks.

Tequila rules the menu. They do not carry some of the typical brands like say Jose Cuervo or 1800. It’s adventurous and too extensive to list here. But I must mention that a shot of 11-year-old Asombroso goes for $188. The bottle is shaped like a penis — which is just a frivolous description. Let’s just say it takes real cojones to order that shot. There are tequila flights, and margaritas both ways. A whole list of tequila cocktails. The menu is IHOP-ish as far as the options go. And there are enough non-tequila liquors, and a pretty good beer selection, to round out the menu.

The prices are decent for a River Walk establishment. Some might argue they are reasonable considering this might be the best location on the River Walk. Shots will be shots, and you know those aren’t cheap. But, for example, tequila cocktails are in the $8 range. Margaritas are $8-$11 depending on the size. The cheapest beer is a handful of domestic bottles for $5.

Happy hour runs until 7 p.m. Monday-Friday and specials include margaritas and beer.

The kitchen is not yet going, but Teran said they will eventually serve appetizers like street tacos, rice and bean bowls, and chips and salsa/guacamole.

Live music is expected to start very soon, and could include some cover bands to start. But the goal, Teran said, is to offer a healthy dose of Texas-country music.