lordpil's blog

there would prob be a decent amount of blood before you were really hurt, too
yeah basically
like getting a slow scrape
no because youre not like putting all you weight plus dynamic bounce forces
so prob more like 3-10 mph

like, these are people who will leterally do a whole knife by hand with sandpaper and stones after cutting a profile
right
so you can just sit on a coarse belt and wait
but i guess the big deal is the edge geometry and cut material deflection
like, this why katanas go through shit that a lot of other shit gets stuck in, because the blade is curves away from the cut instead of into it
right the other way is to have sharp angle so youre not pushing into the cut material as much, but then blade edge is more brittle

i want to try and make one of those floating belt ones
i guess the slightly convex edge is supposed to cut better
katana style, the shape pushes the work away from the cutting edge
as opposed to flat or concave, where the cut material is basically pushed into the ground surface
like, convex, the blade material curves away from the split material
https://downlandengineeringservices.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/modgrind-16.jpg
like, you can use the diff length between pulleys to get diff curve for given pressure, see all sorts of random polley positioning
right but theyre not always used like that, not all of them have supported sections
its basically a euro grinding wheel vs asian sharpening belts type of deal
right its basically final edge or just very slow shaping

who knows
maybe they wear them round and theyre trying to grind them into a hook again
this a logging mill?
heh cool
i bet its some crazy alloy
how do you shape the edge?
like, i guess, how do your coarse sharpen
belts floating or against plate?

i think they harden the fuck out of one side of the blades
right
its just the edge
wtf double sides
so i guess its just tough down the middle
haha
so like its that big tho?
oh crazy
like i wonder if the teeth are just surface hardened

blackmoon: conductivity has a ton to do with crystaline structures and densities besides just the atomic chemistry bits
so make sense that annealing would change it, all heat treating is pretty much just reshuffling macroscopic arrangement of crystaline regions, so in a lot of cases youre physically changing the length of more and less conductive paths
i bet it correlates to density and mass for a given number of molecular elements
he wants you to like, fold and forge the shit?
or just shape it?
is it throwing sparks at least?
you can prob just bake it and let it cool in the closed oven?
to unharden
yeah

for example, 8 ohm tweeter and woofer, without making the impedance look retarded to the amp, you would use an L pad
which is resistor in parallel with a speaker to shunt some of the current past the tweeter
then a resistor in series with both of those, to boost the resistance back up to 8 ohms
the easier thing to do, which is maybe your thing, is to put a resistor in series with a lower impedance speaker
also, if you are just measuring DCR with a DMM instead of reading the label, its likely a 4 ohm speaker
through specs marketing and competition, drivers have all become lower resistance

12:33:34 <@Rab> I do not accept pot scratch as just part of that analog charm.
ya, conductive plastic pots and careful soldering if you gotta do them
old shit is pretty much done
lidran: is the 3 ohm one little?
small speakers tend to be more sensitive, so you usually want to attenuate them
so for passive speakers, you need to cut the current down somehow with resistors