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I have really been wanting to know how good these cars are.
I think the body style is one of my favorite benz sedans. I've heard they are really quick cars and was wanting some feedback on somebody that has the earlier ones,97-99.
Are these motors and transmissions going to last 100k, 200k or 300k?
I know it depends on the owner and car history, but things to look for that will go wrong on a car with 100k would help.
I would even consider a wagon, just thought about trying one for a daily driver as I'm about to get the wife the newer car and me the used one.
Thanks for any input.
Mario in Fort Worth

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mario, there is lots of info in the stickies, probably way more than you need. what's your budget? my advice is to find the newest ones with lower mileage, mainly because the transmission received some updating in the newer ones. engine will outlast the rest of the car, but rust would be of concern. since you are in texas though, rust wouldn't be much of an issue.

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If you are NOT a DIYer, buy the newest, read the owners manual and understand how the systems are networked on the car or else you will be forever whining on the forum "how do I change that bulb" or " I am in limp mode--will my wife undestand?" or "Oh my God the check engine light is on--what do I do?? or the real beauty---"I think I have rust on my valve springs--can I go to Mexico next week"

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i was in the same position you are in earlier this year trying to decide on which year is best.

the face lift models 2000-2001 not only look nicer but have some better options like the more stout transmission and one of my favorite are the radio/dash functions on the steering wheel...they are very handy and used all the time.

you should be able to find a good low mileage 2000 E320 in the $7-9K range.

look out for:
1. catalytic converter rattle
2. loose mirrors
3. CEL and other issues which can be identified by checking computer

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I wouldn't worry about 100k. Our diesel has 212k.
1997 models are quite different from newer and I am talking significant stuff, not the face lift. Engine is I6, what some prize, but keyed ignition that wears out and is big headache to replace, remote door locks that are intermittent most of the time, not all windows have speed operation and no FSS.
Still good car if the price is right. but those things would drop at least $1000 comparing to model with identical mileage but a year newer.

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Can be a good car but really depends on previous owners use/abuse if any.
High Mileage is not really an issue as the engines are solid on these cars, just test drive and PPI inspection as others have mentioned and get the newest you can afford.

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Thanks for all the input guys. I see alot of dealers who get these cars and are selling them quite cheap, mostly with 100k plus. Everytime I ask if they have any records it amazes me that they don't keep them or get them with the car. Oh well, I guess that's why the ppi is done.

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Missing books when sold by dealer is standard operating procedure. As well as missing spare key.
I know that stuff is taken off by mechanics preparing the car for sale and end on ebay later on.
When manuals are not big issue, I would strongly insist for spare key and a printout showing the missing keys have been deleted from car memory. You don't want mechanic knowing your address giving the spare key to his friends.

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Missing books when sold by dealer is standard operating procedure. As well as missing spare key.
I know that stuff is taken off by mechanics preparing the car for sale and end on ebay later on.
When manuals are not big issue, I would strongly insist for spare key and a printout showing the missing keys have been deleted from car memory. You don't want mechanic knowing your address giving the spare key to his friends.

This is unfortunately very true. Most of the key fobs are taken when they run a car through the auction actually. My brother-in-law is a wholesaler and they have a big box of key fobs for this reason. They keep them in case a car they buy is missing one and only has a door key. Same with the manuals. If you buy a car that has went through the shoot... chances are you are getting 1 key and often no manuals or records.

You'll also want to run a Carfax/Autocheck (i think is better, and cheaper). ou won't believe how many cars are run through NC or SC to "wash" the titles. There are over 600K cars that got flooded in New Orleans alone. There are many that have rebuild titles and then they run them through the auction at one of the 3 states who can wash them clean. The history will still show it, but the actual paper title will look clean. A rebuild title is only worth about 50-60% as much. They can be good cars if put back together well, but you have to know how to look for frame damage, etc. Also if a car was less than 3 years old and an insurance company wrote it as a total loss... RUN AWAY. That car took some major damage (like 70% of the book value in repairs).

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