EN Summary: As promised in my last article, here's the tutorial for the bound buttonhole technique used on the fronts of the Green 60s style coat (Marfy 2268). This technique is very easy and it makes possible to make unusual shaped buttonholes (circles, triangles, even mouse-shaped if you wish). Keep reading the full tutorial.

EN: The fabric I'm using for this coat is very thick and "plushy" and it is impossible to use the automatic buttonhole foot to sew a buttonhole without the sewing machine jamming. The remaining options were hand-worked buttonholes (I doubt they would stand out in this fabric), big covered snaps or bound buttonholes. BTW, a few years ago I published a handy tutorial on covering snaps (click here and scroll down for the article in English). With the bound buttonholes sewn the traditional way (again Paco has an excellent tutorial - click here) I am quite sure I'd would face a few problems (pressing open the welt seams would be a problem for sure), so I opted for an alternative method; it's not the first time I use this method, yet in this case I decided to make the welts out of a thinner fabric (the same I'll be using on the front facings and inner collar piece).

STEP 1: Prepare the welts. I cut two rectangles of fabric on the bias and reinforced them with fusible interfacing (also on the bias). The rectangles should be large enough to extend the size of the buttonhole by one inch all around it. The rectangles are sewn to each other lengthwise (right sides facing) using machine basting stitches (the longer stitch setting and a lose tension on the needle). The flip the rectangles closed on themselves and give them a good press. The right side of the fabric is facing outwards and there's a seam separating the two welts:

STEP 2: Cut and pin the buttonhole facing to the right side of the buttonhole place. I used another bias cut rectangle, the same size of the previous ones, but this time cut out of lining fabric (silk organza would do too, but the most important thing is to look for a thin yet robust fabric with the right color match):

STEP 3: stay-stitch around the buttonhole placement "window", catching the lining patch underneath (the pins should be away from the feed-dogs! You can hand-baste and avoid the pins all together). I used a shorter stitch length of 1.8.

STEP 4: Slash the buttonhole through both layers, stopping 1/4” from each end. Clip diagonally towards each corner (cut very close but not through the stitching!). I find it easier to do this from the lining side as the stitches are more apparent. I also use my rotary cutter to do the first horizontal slashing, just a bit and then complete the cutting with very sharp short scissors. Then I turn the lining to the inside through the opening:

STEP 5: On the wrong side, straighten the facing and press it in place so the shape of the buttonhole is completely outlined (whatever shape you're using; if using round shapes a little clipping may be necessary):

STEP 6: Place the welts prepared in step 1 on the wrong side so they align perfectly with the opening. I like to pin them in place first from the right side and then hand-baste them around the opening to be able to remove the pins.

STEP 7: To secure the welts permanently I top-stitched around the opening, very close to the edge. I removed the bastings and pulled the bobbin thread of the stitches securing the welts together; I trimmed the facing and lining so they don't get in the way of sewing the front facing and tacked them down with catch-stitches (in this case, before tacking the welts/facing down, I also zigzagged around the facings and lining, not catching the coat but this is entirely optional). On the wrong side, I secured the ends of the welts together with small hand-stitches. The bound buttonholes are finished on the right side and the wrong side will be finished later when the front facings are attached to the coat along the front edge seam.

EN: To finish off the front facings, the method is the same for creating a "window" on the facing fabric. With the facing positioned in place, use pins to mark with precision the corners of the buttonhole on the facing side; mark the fabric with bastings or chalk and use another bias rectangle of lining to make the opening. The procedure is the same, but in the end the facing opening should be fell-stitched to the welts of the buttonhole underneath.

Hope you have found this step-by-step to be useful! This technique won't be new for many of you, but there's always the chance of picking up an interesting detail within the tutorial. Thank you all for reading!

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!