A Western classic and a California exclusive, teleme is a creamy
white cheese made from whole milk. Once ranked as the best-sell ing
specialty cheese in California, it slipped from attention in the late
'60s, when some early producers stopped making it.

The invention of teleme is credited to a Greek cheese maker in
Pleasanton, California. Shortly thereafter, production was begun by
others, including one California family of Italian heritage, the
Pelusos. The Pelusos began commercial distribution in 1925 and, three
generations later, still supply Westerners with this distinctive cheese.
Authoritative classifications group teleme with feta. But it's
much more like Italy's stracchino in taste and texture. Both
cheeses have a mild but refreshingly smooth-tart flavor (without
feta's saltiness). Teleme, however, is smoother and creamier
throughout; when beated, it melts into a delicate sauce a property of
which these recipes take advantage. The process of making teleme and
feta starts the same way, but feta turns out firm and crumbly; teleme
goes the opposite direction, in an operation that's more difficult
to control. Not surprisingly, it was an unexpected development in a
batch of feta that created teleme.

Teleme is made in 10- to 12-pound blocks. The cheese is ready to
eat in about 10 days but can age up to two months. As it ages, it
develops more complex flavor and creamier texture.

The cheese is finished in three styles, sometimes identified,
sometimes not.

Easiest to recognize is "flour teleme." Blocks of the
fresh curd are dusted with rice flour, then aged exposed to air. The
surface dries, forming a crust that darkens somewhat as the center
ripens to the ideal creaminess. The floured exterior may develop mold,
which can be trimmed off. Try flour teleme with fresh fruit, as shown
at far left.

The other ways to finish the cheese both start by sealing blocks
of curd in plastic bags. If it gets no further aging, it is sold just
as "teleme." If the cheese is then aged, it becomes
"semisoft teleme." Compared with the younger cheese, aged
teleme is more flavorful and softer overall. (If you like, you can age
young teleme in your refrigerator.) Both forms are crustfree, of uniform
color throughout, and protected from surface mold.

An ounce of teleme has 77 calories, 4.98 grams of protein, 5.87
grams of fat, 1.06 grams of carbohydrates, 150 milligrams of sodium, and
5.1 milligrams of cholesterol. (Cheddar cheese has about a third more
calories and twice a's much fat.)

Though teleme is widely sold in California supermarkets, cheese
shops, and Italian delicatessens, availability elsewhere in the West is
spotty-look in Italian delis or cheese shops. But you can order teleme
(in cool months, for best quality) from Peluso Cheese: 429 H St., Los
Banos, Calif. 93635, or telephone (209) 8263744. Cost of the cheese is
$3 to $4 a pound, plus shipping charges. If you're passing through
Los Banos (about 10 minutes east of 1-5, 45 minutes east of I-101), you
can visit Peluso's retail shop and also see the cheese made. Hours
are 10 to 4 weekdays, 10 to 2 Saturdays (no cheese is made on weekends).

Melted Teleme with Brandy and Lemon

1/2 pound teleme, semisoft teleme, or flour teleme cheese, sliced

1 baguette (8 oz.), cut into 1/2-inch diagonal slices

1 teaspoon coarse-ground pepper

1 lemon, cut in half or wedges

2 tablespoons brandy

Lay teleme slices in a shallow baking dish (about 1-1/2 cups).
Also arrange baguette slices in a single layer on a 12- by 15-inch
baking sheet.

Bake cheese in a 400[deg] oven until melted and bubbly at edges, 8
to 10 minutes. At the same time, bake bread until crisp and toasted;
turn slices for even color and remove from oven as lightly browned, af

ter about 10 minutes.

Set cheese on a heatproof platter, sprinkle with pepper, and place
toast and lemon alongside.

In a 2- to 3-cup pan, warm brandy over medium heat until hot.
Ignite brandy (not beneath a fan or near flammables) and pour over
cheese. When flames die, scoop cheese with a spoon, a portion at a
time, onto toast and add squeezes of lemon juice. Makes 4 to 6
appetizer servings or 2 entree servings.

Cut eggplant into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. Brush 2 baking pans
(each 10by 15 in.) lightly with oil. Arrange eggplant slices in a
single layer. Brush tops of slices lightly with oil. Bake in a
425[deg] oven until slices are well browned and very soft when pressed,
about 45 minutes. After 20 minutes, turn slices over and alternate pan
positions in oven.

With a wide spatula, transfer all slices to I of the pans and set
aside. Use the remaining pan to roast the vegetables and chicken.

In a 10- by 12-inch (or 9- by 13-in.) baking dish, arrange half
the eggplant slices. Gently spread vegetable-chicken mixture over
slices, then top evenly with remaining eggplant. Cover tightly with
foil. (If made ahead, cover and chill up until next day.) Bake in a
425[deg] oven until mixture is hot, about 25 minutes.

Lay cheese evenly over vegetables and bake, uncovered, until
cheese is melted and hot in center, about 10 minutes. Let stand about 5
minutes, then serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.