Dumplings are a good thing in a small package

Updated 5:56 pm, Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Dumplings are winning over new fans thanks to some creative interpretations, such as boiled dumplings stuffed with lamb, above, and a trendy dish of dumplings floating in broth.﻿

Dumplings are winning over new fans thanks to some creative interpretations, such as boiled dumplings stuffed with lamb, above, and a trendy dish of dumplings floating in broth.﻿

Photo: KARSTEN MORAN, STR

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Dumplings are winning over new fans thanks to some creative interpretations, such as boiled dumplings stuffed with lamb, above, and a trendy dish of dumplings floating in broth.

Dumplings are winning over new fans thanks to some creative interpretations, such as boiled dumplings stuffed with lamb, above, and a trendy dish of dumplings floating in broth.

Photo: KARSTEN MORAN, STR

Dumplings are a good thing in a small package

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If by chance you are a lover of dumplings, then consider yourself on the front end of the newest hot trend.

Yes, food trends beg to be quibbled over. We grow weary of cupcakes, of meatballs, of the overwhelming ubiquity of bacon. And yet it's hard to find fault with the simple, plump lovability of this globe-spanning culinary trope: The very form of a dumpling, with a hidden knob of flavor all wrapped up in a bow of dough, calls to mind a tiny present that our species has decided to pass along to itself.

At most Asian restaurants, diners can feast on platters of two-bite delights while sometimes spending less than you'd pay for a morning cup of coffee.

Some are simple fare, but others are being executed with meticulous care - and stuffed, pinched and twisted into fresh manifestations.

New York restaurater Dale Talde has engineered one of the most hunted-down bar snacks of 2012, a beer-friendly, street-cart collision known as the "pretzel dumpling."

Inside, there's some slightly cured pork. Outside, a process of boiling, brushing, pan-searing and baking creates a skin with the crust and chew of a hot pretzel. The dipping sauce echoes what you might get at a deli, or in a bag full of Chinese takeout: strong mustard.

For Talde, who grew up in Chicago and comes from a Filipino background, the goal was to summon a dish that represented a spirited take on what's Asian and what's American.

"For us, it was a perfect way of blending the two," he said.

While Talde has memories of making dumplings with his mother at Christmas, Jason Wang, a 24-year-old entrepreneur, remembers doing the same thing with his family around the onset of the Lunar New Year.

"For Asian families, dumplings are something that we all grew up with," Wang said. And the notion of inventively "playing around with the dumpling" is overdue, he added.

"For our generation," he said, "it's a way of communicating these things to everyone."

For finishing: Place a heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of a wonton wrapper. Brush the edges of the wrapper with water and fold it over to shape a triangle, rectangle or other flat shape, gently pressing the edges for a tight seal. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine 8 cups of water with baking soda, and bring to a boil. Working in batches, blanch the dumplings in the solution for 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer blanched dumplings to a tray, and brush on both sides with melted butter. Sprinkle very lightly with pretzel salt, bagel salt or margarita salt.

Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add enough oil to lightly coat the pan. Working in batches without overcrowding, add dumplings and allow them to brown lightly on one side. Using a stiff spatula, turn them to brown the other side. Serve with tahini mustard.