I've opened the G4 four times. The official Apple way outlined above is vastly superior to the paper clip method. When you lower the screen side of the deck, a little bit of pressure toward you will easily release the clips. Definitely begin with the back (screen side) of the deck where you just remove the two T-6 screws.

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There is one latch that stops you from pulling the upper case right off, located on the left side of the optical drive slit. To free the upper case, you will be pulling a thin metal latch toward you, freeing it from the clasp holding it in place.

Pry up the left side of the upper case slightly with your hand and wedge a spudger into the seam between the upper case and lower case.

Leave the tool in place applying pressure to the upper case for the next step.

This could really use a diagram to show exactly how the clip is structured. I didn't realize the clip was between the front of the case and the back support it attaches to, and it needs to be pried off that back support. (Evil Apple design - would it really hurt to have a screw underneath?). Overall these guides are fantastic! I just replaced a hard drive, and it worked great. And I LOVE the screw guide at the back - brilliant idea!

Apple official disassembly guide suggests instead to lift the upper case from the back up to 45 degrees. Then while lowering it back gently wiggle the upper case and it does disengage the latches. No tools required, no risk of bending the case.

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Place enough pressure on the upper case to allow you to slide a tool just within the seam between upper case and lower case as shown in the picture. A dentist's hook, push pin, or similar tool will work.

Do not yank the upper case off as soon as you free the clasp. The case is attached to the logic board via two ribbon cables.

Delicately slip the tip of your tool behind the silver metal latch and pull it forward while pulling up on the case. This may take some effort.

Alternatively, you can free the clasp with a small flathead screwdriver through the CD slot. The clasp is 1-3/16 in (3cm) from the left side of the slot. Use the screwdriver to lift out (or press back) the felt lining; then use the screwdriver to pull the clasp (shiny metal) forward to free it from the catch behind it (dull metal).

I was able to easily release the latch by putting the spudger in the optical drive slot, and gently prying up. You can see the three holes where the upper case clips in above the drive, and the clips are accessible through those holes from the optical drive slot.

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eventually release all three latches at once by very slightly lifting the rear of the cover and pressing the cover back toward the screen.

It is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

"Forward" (step 10) means toward the front. I was not able to release the latch this way. However, I did eveIt is not necessary to remove the trackpad and keyboard cables (steps 12, 13, and 14) to replace the hard drive.

I find it useful to use a big rubber band to hold the keyboard up--put it around the keyboard and display.

I've done several of these before, but today it was a bear to accomplish. I finally did it by inserting a dental pick through the optical slot and pulling forward to release the clip. In case it will help someone else, pictures of the clip are at Devil Clip.

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Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

Be very careful! The clasps holding the black strip are extremely fragile and can snap very easily.

In fact it is possible to get to your hard drive and replace it without having to detach this ribbon at all and I would advise that if all you are doing is replacing your hard drive then skip this step.

Yes, the note about skipping this step should be up there, front and center. I followed this step and broke the bit of plastic. Now it's re-fastened with a piece of electrical tape, but I am annoyed because it was totally unnecessary to do that. How do we edit the front page to at least say "OPTIONAL" for this step?

There should be a note on this to say this step is OPTIONAL. I followed instructions as written, broke the little plastic piece, and have taped it back together with electrical tape. But after replacing the hard drive, I see it was totally unnecessary to take this step. It's a high risk step, people should be warned.

the diagram is a bit confusing, and the text is a bit confusing for non english speakers. when it said pull up a small amount, i thought you have to try and lift it from the motherboard. all you have to do is move the black plastic bit towards the screen with your fingernails and the broad thing plastic keyboard cable comes off.

Watch this step carefully! The release mechanism pushes back slightly, parallel with the surface of the logic board. You may want to gently use a sparger rather than your thumbs if you have big fingers. This is a very delicate connector. Work one side slightly then the other. The good news is that it does not offer any resistance.

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If you have already removed the display or hard drive, you may have already removed some of the cables described in this step. You may also ignore their presence in the following images; they do not further affect the disassembly procedure.

Disconnect the indicated 14 cables from the logic board, starting in one place and moving around the board.

It really helps to remove the torx that clamps down the display ribbon cable, located on the display hinge. Removing it frees the display ribbon to be moved out of the way a little when you soon pull out the logic board.

I m stuck here. i had the logic board replaced before by "professionals" at a reputable apple authorized service provider in nyc. somehow the board is stuck to the heat sink near the left fan. i wonder if they used something else than thermal paste, like glue?

I m stuck here. i had the logic board replaced before by "professionals" at a reputable apple authorized service provider in nyc. somehow the board is stuck to the heat sink near the left fan. i wonder if they used something else than thermal paste, like glue?

what to do next?

Mine was stuck like that too. I ended up getting a flathead screwdriver and carefully prying up on the edge of the logic board in the back and it came off with an awful sounding pop. It looks like the processor was attached to the heat sink with something that is probably thermal paste. It doesn't seem to be damaged, but I haven't been able to test it yet.

Mine was stuck like that too. I ended up getting a flathead screwdriver and carefully prying up on the edge of the logic board in the back and it came off with an awful sounding pop. It looks like the processor was attached to the heat sink with something that is probably thermal paste. It doesn't seem to be damaged, but I haven't been able to test it yet.

You will have to gently work the area next to the fan housing... the key is to do it gently, small movements at a time. If using a flat head, (which you should probably not) make sure not to damage the PCB

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Grasp the logic board at the left edge with one hand and at the thinnest section with the other hand. Lift the left edge of the board up to approximately a 30 degree angle (if you don't have your protractor handy, just lift until the DVI port clears the right hinge).

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Important: when you reinstall a logic board, you'll need to replace the thermal paste that goes between the processor on the logic board and the heat sink. Failure to remove the old paste and apply a new layer can cause the computer to overheat and sustain damage. The following steps refer to replacing the thermal paste between the processor and heat sink; follow these steps only when you are ready to place the logic board in the computer.

Use a firm plastic edge to scrape the thermal material off the processor.

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Card cage disassembly: A black plastic piece along the side of the card cage has a tiny hole that mates with a tiny pin sticking up from an aluminum slider. Gently separate the slider pin from the underside of that hole as you lift out the card cage.

Be SURE to route the Airport antenna cable into the space between the fat Airport ribbon and the card cage, and make sure it's still there when you reinstall the logic board. That antenna cable can slip under the logic board during reassembly, a mistake that you probably won't notice until much later -- when you put the display back on and discover that the antenna connector coming from the display has nothing to plug into.