It's safe to say that most Californians harbor a soft spot for sea otters. So two bleak reports this past month concerning the fate of the southern sea otter were met with much dismay. One group of scientists documented a fresh-water toxin that's killing otters downstream, while another found a marked increase in otters killed by sharks.

Dubbed the cosmic center of the universe by locals, Elkhorn Slough is one of the richest wetlands along the California coast, a magnet for wildlife and humans alike. And the best way to see it all is in a kayak.