Uyghur – to understand this wildly different Chinese cuisine, it helps to situate it – so we’re talking about the northwest corner of China. It’s bordered by Mongolia, India and several of the ‘istans. My Russian cab driver tells me he brings his kids here, because it freaks them out when the Chinese restaurant staff speak to them in Russian. It’s none-too-fancy, with bright yellow walls decorated with Uyghur knickknacks and a Mom-and-Pop kind of feel, all the way down to the lacy white curtains.