Dear Gregg: Step into a Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, and you expect to find an impressive array of meats, fire-roasted to perfection, and served from swordlike skewers by gaúcho-attired waiters. At Chama Gaúcho, you'd not be disappointed. But when such a carne-centric restaurant also lavishes attention on the salad bar, it's doubly satisfying. Along with an array of fresh green salads, fine fat asparagus, earthy red beets and more, it offers high quality cheeses, sliced charcuterie such as prosciutto and pickled or marinated vegetables, including these piquant Marinated Shiitake Mushrooms. And here's more good news. For those with smaller appetites, or those who eschew meat, the salad bar can be ordered alone, available for a reduced price at both lunch and dinner.

Pickling mushrooms as a way of preserving them is an age-old practice, and they're delicious little bites whether referred to as appetizers, hors d'oeuvres, tapas or meze. Most recipes you'll find, such as the ubiquitous Mushrooms à la Greque, use button mushrooms and are marinated with white wine along with vinegar and variously flavored, perhaps with tomato, garlic, olive oil and Mediterranean spices such as coriander seed.

Chama Gaúcha, however, goes beyond the expected, and general manager Long Phu tells us what sets theirs apart. They use fresh shiitake mushrooms and add vinegar (but no wine), sliced onion and fresh cilantro sprigs to the marinade in which you steep the mushrooms. They're ready to enjoy after 24 hours and will keep up to four days or so. The results are delightful and healthy, too. A great addition to your repertoire and to your table.