I use a SPAL FAN-PWM.Or, you could put a snap switch in (on @ 200f off @ 185f). Just have the snap switch trigger a relay. Pretty simple. I've done both and the snap switch works good and it's a lot cheaper than the SPAL.

You can mount the snap switch by installing it in the thermostat housing. There is an extra area that one can drill and tap.If you decide to do it, take pictures and let us know how it works.Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Nope ( to answer if it runs all the time )In the lower hose I have put an cooper adapter and a thermo switch on it that triggers the relay and turns on the fan

see the photow on the original postin tha free area on the thermo housing I have installed the pickup for the addon thermometer I have installed since the original one passes the midle area seconds before the engine explodes..

I had a Spal fan-pwm which I was happy with. I had to transfer it from my old wrecked Sportage to my new one, and unfortunately, in the process one of the connectors got damaged. The connectors that come with the SPAL are not very rugged, especially the pins which appear to be made of very thin metal. One of the pins got somewhat smashed and wasn't making a good connection.

Long story short, in the process of disconnecting it to fix the bent pin, a little plastic tab on the connector that had become brittle broke off. The plastic of the connectors is cheap and gets really brittle from being under the hood. It was the connector that carries +12v and ground from the battery, and Ignition. Well, the way the connector is designed, if the plastic tab breaks off (which it can easily do just from unplugging the connection) then the connection will fit backwards. How do I know? Dumb me, I plugged it in backwards. I didn't even notice the tab was missing. ZAP!

The Spal fan-pwn is now dead, and when I emailed Spal from their website asking if they repair them, I got no response.

So anyway, be careful with those connectors, they are somewhat fragile after they have been under the hood a while, and the unit does not have reverse polarity protection, if you hook it up wrong it WILL kill it.

I ordered a Spal fan-pwn v3 to replace it, we'll see if it's any improvement over the old one. Meanwhile while I wait for it to come in the mail, where the fan-pwm used to be, I just temporarily wired in a relay that runs the fan whenever ignition is on. Funny thing, even with the stock thermostat, having the fan running constantly caused a trouble code to pop up saying that the thermostat was set too low! lol...

PRO's1. Better cooling in traffic. Electric fans spin at a constant speed regardless of engine speed. Itís able to pull more air in at idle when in traffic. 2. More power to the rear wheels and better engine efficiency (Fuel Economy). Because the engine is not turning the fan and clutch assembly your engine will put more power to the wheels especially at higher rpm and not needlessly turn the fan at cruising speeds.CON's1. Overloading the alternator/electrical system. Relays burn out and some systems have no warning that the fans not turning. 2. Overheating - Improper cooling due to the lack of proper size and fitting of fan. Have to create or adapt a shroud, trial and error as we don't have aftermarket supporters.

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