Friday, August 3, 2012

Update: You may have heard that this joint is getting a bit popular. While I may lament not being able to visit my go-to barbecue joint without braving a long line, I'm happy for the proprietors. Justin and Diane Fourton are friends in the barbecue world, and I've sought some bit of smoking advice from Justin on what were once bi-weekly visits. During those many visits I watched their menu evolve and sampled just about every special they ever offered. There isn't much that Justin can't successfully transform under a bath of mesquite smoke.

Wagyu brisket left, regular brisket right

Wagyu brisket is an indulgence at $25 per pound, but it must be ordered if it's on the menu. My preference is to splurge for slices from the lean side where the intense marbling of the wagyu beef creates a difference from the standard cut that is more evident than on the fatty side. The buttery slices melt and fat envelops your tongue as chewing commences. The bold smokiness takes the meat to another level. There are few briskets in the state that can touch it.

Pitmaster sandwich

The regular brisket isn't bad either. It gets top billing on the new Pitmaster sandwich where it's combined with pulled pork and sliced sausage and topped with barbecue sauce, crispy slaw and raw sliced jalapenos. Your sodium intake may be taken care of for a week if you finish one, but consuming one of the best sandwiches I've eaten anywhere is worth it.

Pork Belly

Some specials will take a while to make it back on the menu until the crazy rush they're currently experiencing dies down. A few months back I was lucky enough to make it on a day when the smoked pork belly was the special. A thick rub of black pepper played nicely with smokiness. The considerable amount of fat had been smoked to a level of silky tenderness while the meatier portions had great pork flavor. These thick slices were hard to put down until my tablemates reminded me that we were sharing.

After many meals, I knew Pecan Lodge was up for a re-review. They'd provided the most consistently great brisket in Dallas over more than a dozen visits, but I wanted to see how the Fourtons handled real pressure. Two months ago they appeared on Diners Drive-Ins and Dives with Guy Fieri. The following week, the Fieri factor was already working. Lines that before had never exceeded about twenty people on the busiest of days was now stretching all the way across Shed #2 in the Farmers Market. To meet demand, they have started smoking double what they had done previously. Would the quality suffer? For this visit I needed a buddy who could keep me company in line (it would be eighty minutes on this Saturday) and could order for me at the front. I wanted a standard plate of meat, so Scott Slagle was happy to be my proxy.

After he retrieved our order from Justin (the now famous pitmaster still doles out the orders up front) we retired to a back table. The pile of meat in front of us caused a few onlookers. Fatty brisket was my first stop, and the meat didn't disappoint. The tenderness was perfect as was the heavy smoke. They've always used a heavily salty seasoning, and today was no different. I was loving those tender fatty slices, but it was an end cut from the lean end that put me over the moon. A layer of nicely rendered fat cap was black with smoke. Juice oozed from the meat, and the first bite was brisket perfection. Justin hadn't lost a step. In fact, he had improved. The best ribs I've had at Pecan Lodge were served to me on this day. Instead of a thick coating of sauce, it was a more restrained glaze that had cooked on nicely to the glistening bark. The meat came easily from the bone, and it was both hot and moist with rendered fat. These were excellent ribs.

The only quibble I had with the entire exceptional meal was that the pulled pork received a heavy handed post-applied rub which created some overly salty meat, but the pork sausage quickly made me forget. These house made links were taut, juicy, well spiced and satisfyingly smoky. Even after tripling the amount required, every link is still stuffed by the Fourtons and their staff. They just had to buy a bigger stuffer.

Even with the added pressure of living up to their television fame, and the sometimes suicidal move of doubling output without upgrading smoking equipment, Pecan Lodge is still matching the consistency of the meat they were putting out before all the hype. Just like at Franklin Barbecue in Austin, I can confidently tell people that Justin will deliver meat that's worth the wait.

Rating *****

2011: After nearly a two month hiatus (that felt like years to some BBQ fanatics) Pecan Lodge is back up and running. Justin and Diane Fourton have a wide menu of Southern food favorites so they weren't exactly closed, but there's no doubt that a celebration was warranted. A banner exclaiming "BBQ is Back" was hoisted over the counter, and two new items were chalked up on the menu. While I was there to try the new homemade sausage and pulled pork, it was nice to have some Deep Eddy sweet tea vodka to sip on while in line.

With SideDish proclaiming this the best fried chicken in Dallas, I had to add a leg and thigh to my BBQ order of a pulled pork sandwich and a homemade sausage link. A soft white bun held nothing but large chunks of moist pulled pork. This is Texas BBQ, so they ditched the slaw and the sauce. A small cup of spiced vinegar was there if you needed an extra zing. The smokey meat, covered in a deep dark crust doesn't need anything extra, but the sauce was certainly complementary. For the links, the Fourtons decided that only a homemade pork sausage would do. The links were deeply smokey with a great snap and pleasing spice level. With such a large crowd that included the Texas BBQ Posse, I'm sure the owners were nervous about how their new menu items would be received, but I'd say 'don't change a thing'.

I didn't have many doubts, but the new BBQ items were worth the wait. It wasn't just the BBQ that made this one of my more memorable meals I've had anywhere in quite some time. The mac & cheese has that extra kick from the jalapeno and bacon, the okra was crispy from the cornmeal crust, and the blueberry fried pie was hot, crisp and not weighed down with grease. Now I'll just have a tougher time deciding what to order on my next visit.

2010: During my trip to Kansas City, I learned the beauty of burnt ends. I've looked for them around the DFW area with little luck. Up N Smoke in Keller offers them for lunch on Fridays only, and Flying Pig in Mansfield doesn't do them justice. I went to Pecan Lodge last Thursday to see if they could match the quality I found in KC.

At lunch the previous week, I got a sneak preview of this new menu offering. The owners Justin and Diane know me by now because I'm a regular, so they asked my opinion. I thought they were too heavy on the sauce, but looked forward to the finished product when they finally offered them. I learned from Pegasus News and from the Pecan Lodge twitter account that they were going to be available for lunch last week in a limited supply. I rushed over and grabbed an order.

These intense nuggets of flavor did not disappoint. The meat was deeply smoky with an intense flavor from the second trip to the smoker and that baked on sauce flavor. These chunks had been cut from the fatty, crusty end of the brisket, basted in a mixture of the house sauce and brisket drippings, then returned to the smoker for another hour or so. The result could have easily been dry and crunchy, but these chunks were tender and moist with just the right amount of chew. There were only about eight chunks of meat, but I couldn't take much more of the intense flavors. A nice counterpoint were the crispy onions served on the side. The whole basket was just $6.

A few friends wanted to go back the next day, so I opted for the chopped beef sandwich. It wasn't so much chopped as chunked, and the meat came from those same fatty end cuts used for the burnt ends. This sandwich was a satisfying mess of smoky meat and sauce, and I'd gladly order it again if I'm not feeling man enough for the more intense burnt ends. A note on those burnt ends - they won't be on the menu and will not be available every day. Even on the days they can be ordered, there will only be about a dozen orders each day given the limited amount of end cuts available on the briskets. The only way you'll know if the burnt ends are ready is to follow the Pecan Lodge on twitter. They'll make it worth your while.

2010: You'd think a BBQ joint named Pecan Lodge smokes with pecan wood. Nope. Okay, so they serve pecans in some form? No to that too. Owner and pitmaster Justin Fourton named it after a ranch that was in his family long ago, and he insists on using mesquite in his custom made mobile smoker. His wife and co-owner, Diane, helps create all of the savory side items and tempting sweets. You can learn more about this couple's journey towards Pecan Lodge in a great article in Edible DFW.

Before their opening in March, Shed #2 at the Farmer's Market was looking pretty bare. Now it seems to be packed with mini storefronts offering everything from BBQ, pizza, cakes, wine, tamales, grass-fed beef and sausages. The design of Pecan Lodge gives it a real presence as you enter the renovated shed, and with all the tables in front of the main counter, it feels like a regular restaurant. Now let's get down to the meat.

This might just be the finest brisket in the Dallas city limits. The mesquite smoke was evident, but had been subdued to the perfect level by timely foil wrapping in the pit. The crust was nicely formed, and helped deliver the punch of intense flavors that ran through each slice. A beautifully deep smokering capped the top of each tender slice from the flat, and a thin line of nicely rendered fat was left along the bottom for extra flavor. Ribs were nearly as good, but were sullied a bit by the sauce brush. Their sauce is definitely homemade, and has a spicy, grainy earthiness that I think goes better with the brisket than the ribs. However, the restrained sauce application allowed the smokiness of the meat to shine through. The ribs could have been more tender and moist, but they were well smoked and flavorful.

The sides were also great. Mac & cheese was creamy and cheesy, and it had bacon on top. Nice touch. The beans were also plenty meaty with shredded brisket blended into the well seasoned beans. After a great meal, I got a behind the scenes look at the smoker out back with Justin. There wasn't a propane tank in sight, just stacks of mesquite wood.

I had to make a return trip just to verify that it was really this good. Justin was working the counter at lunchtime on a Friday, so I was spotted immediately. They had just rolled out a new (wider) menu, and Justin was trying a new rib glaze. My friends tried the shredded brisket tacos and the brisket stuffed sweet potato known as the "hot mess". They all were more than happy with their orders, but I went right back to the brisket and ribs (which usually aren't available on Friday).

The brisket was nearly identical to the previous week's offering, but the ribs had shown improvement. Instead of the house sauce, there was a sweeter glaze, and these ribs were smoked to tenderness with plenty of moist meat and well rendered fat. Crispy okra was a great accompaniment. I'm glad this joint is just a few minutes from my office. I have a feeling I might become a regular.

I'm so happy to see this article about Pecan Lodge. I've enjoyed many offerings from their menu but my favorites are the fried chicken and waffles for breakfast and The Hot Mess.... just about anytime I can get it!

It was indeed good, please go out and support them. I'd like to see shed 2 with more food vendors this good, there's plenty of room. I was there the same Friday. Wasn't expecting the BBQ Snob to be there but apparently I just missed you, according to Justin, who introduced himself. As for something to wash the food down with, you're limited to canned and bottled soft drinks, water, etc., which I find empty way too fast.

This place is incredible....Justin has a way of making you feel so comfortable and welcome...then to have the good food served up with his hospitality...its a win win situation. Dallas - DFW - is lucky to have Pecan Lodge for catering as well as offering food during the weekends!

Saw this review and tried this place today - Lord knows we need decent brisket in Dallas. Had the brisket/rib plate with mac and cheese like in the pic and it was solid. Brisket was quite good, nice crust/rub with a nice back end kick and impressive noticeable smoke ring. The fact that it's mesquite smoked but not overly smokey was impressive. The ribs, I could take or leave. They were tasty and cooked well but were basted in a sauce that was unnecessary and not very good. Ribs would have been fine without the sauce, but I would have preferred to double up on the brisket and skip the ribs. Only other complaint would be portion size. 2 skinny ribs and 3 fairly small slices of brisket and a scoop of mac n cheese for $10. Could have used a little more of everything as I left sorta hungry.

Overall, I'll definitely be back for the brisket and the "Hot Mess" potato looked impressive as well. I'd recommend the place.

Great quality, terrible quantity. Went today for lunch and for $12 I got 2 smallish ribs and 2 thinly sliced pieces of brisket (+ a bottle of water) and some overcooked mac and cheese. The 4 slices that are shown in the picture and the 3 mentioned in the comment above would have been great. Highly disappointed in the portion size. Won't be back and it's a shame because the meats tasted good but I just can't go to a place where I don't leave feeling full.

Generally agreed with above that the plate with two ribs and two slices of brisket just isn't satisfying. Even when the food is excellent, it's not enough to feel like a full meal. That's why I say skip it. Sides, too. Brisket is why I'm there, so brisket is all I order.

Those burnt ends sound amazing, and I really hope to try them one day. Though, my inability to get there before 1:00 on most any day slims my chances.

Must have really made a mistake by not ordering ribs this past Saturday. Ordered the shredded beef tacos and the hot mess. There were two small tacos. The meat was extremely salty with no other flavor of its own. Without the other sauce it would have been roast beef. The hot mess was not much better. The sweet potato was waaay overcooked and the brisket (again) was too salty. We paid $18 for two, and in my opinion, that was $17,95 too much. The best part of our meal was the bottled water.

That pulled pork was incredible, best I've had in the Dallas area. Would have ordered ribs too but they were out by 1:30 p.m. Friday, and that pulled pork was the second-to-last serving left. Get there early.

Went today (Friday) at 2:00 PM.No line but they were already sold out of brisket. Bummer! I ordered ribs and pulled pork and Justin was nice enough to give me a sausage link for my trouble. The ribs, although very good, were quite salty. The pulled pork probably has no equal anywhere!I must order more of it next time.

Made my first trip there with my bro-in-law Tim on 1/20. It was everything I'd ever dreamed it would be. Best BBQ in DFW, hands down. Well, there are a couple of places I haven't tried, I guess. Best BBQ I've had in DFW. How's that? We tried brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs, sausage, and pork belly. All were great. To me, the beef ribs stood out as the best. Tim liked the pork belly best. We dropped a lot of dough as we knew we wouldn't be back for a while. It was worth it.

DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

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GLOSSARY

Crust - Layer of black goodness around the edges of brisket or ribs that holds excellent flavor.

Meat Caramel - After gratuitous amounts of smoke are applied, and liquid rendered fat has come to the surface of the meat to mix with the applied rub, a chemical rendering takes place that creates a sweet sticky layer on the surface of the meat that clings to the tip of your finger when pulled away from the meat. This is affectionately known as meat snot.

Parboiled - A process in which ribs are boiled before being grilled or smoked. This is what makes meat fall off the bone, and it also leaves good, flavorful fat in the water. It's cheating.Rendered - The process of cooking fat until it literally melts into the meat. Cook it too fast and the fat is absent from the meat creating dryness. If it's not cooked long enough, the fat remains gelatinous and unsavory. There's no need to put well rendered fat aside.Roast-Beefy - Brisket that hasn't been bathed in smoke, but rather tastes as if it was thrown in an oven like any hunk of roast beef. It might be good food, but it's not BBQ.Sauced - Unsolicited BBQ sauce slathered over top of your meat, usually to add what was non-existent flavor in the meat.Smoke Line - Red line around the outside edge of sliced brisket just below the crust that signifies an adequate amount of time in the smoker.Sugar Cookie - Fat that turns to a slightly sweet and crispy flavorful nugget after copius amounts of smoke are applied.