The 454 is In!!!!!!! Now a few simple questions

Hey guys guess what!!! A few moments ago I lowered the 454 into my Blazer. It's finally in after more than 6 months of waitng for all the right parts. Now I still have to put all the accesories, intake, dist, etc. But that's going to be simple. I also have to turn the engine about 1/2" (the whloe engine) because one engine mount is too high and the other is too low. But I had to call it a day after working almost continuously since friday at 3pm.

I'd like to thank those guys who helped me out on how to replace the rear main seal. It was easier than I thought. Also, for the guys that read my post about the broken kickdown cable, I finally got anotherone at the junkyard ($25 vrs. $120 at the dealer). I just have to install it.

Now for the questions. When I removed the 350, I was amazed to discover that there were only two bolts (out of six) left connecting the engine to the tranny, and these were only hand tight . I was lucky no to drop the tranny in the trails. Does anybody know their length? I know they are a 9/16 head with coarse threads, but don't want to buy too long ones that'll bottom out or too short ones that may break, and don't want to make two trips to the warehouse.

My other question is about all the dirt, crud and debris that went into the combustion chambers. I didn't rebuild the engine (because I'm out of $$$ right now) so only replaced the manifold, valve covers, all gaskets except cyl. heads, and rear main seal. During the old manifold removal, a lot of debris fell into the lifter valley and the combustion chambers. I cleaned the lifter valley, but I can still see a lot in the combustion chambers (you know... I have big int/exh ports ). What should I do about it? I don't want it to scratch my block. Anyone have any old-timer secrets for cleaning this?

The real trick is to clean the intake VERY well, before you unbolt it. But I guess it's too late for that. I've made creative tools for my shop vac in the past by just using duct tape to adapt a small hose to the end of the main hose. Leave another small hole so you don't burn up the motor in the vac. Then just insert the small hose through the ports to clean things out.

As for the tranny to engine bolts, they're 3/8's of an inch, coarse thread. I'd guess they're 1 and 1/2 inches long. I have a couple that I can measure for you when I get home tonight, unless someone comes up with the exact answer before then.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...

Hmmm.. the length is two inches - 2". You may want a 2 1/4" bolt for the xfer case support strut. Good luck on the rest of the install! Try to keep all the trans bolts in this time!

As for the crap in the chambers... be sure to get that out before starting the engine! Any big chunks could prove to make for piston-to-head clearance issues, and trash a piston or rod... this would have to be a small pebble or stone, but you did say "a lot" or crap got in there!

Use a powerful shop vac, or blow it out with a air compressor and a nozzle. Have fun!

The bolts that came out of those holes in my 454 are 1 and 1/4 inches, from where the stem meets the head to the end of the bolt. The threaded holes in the engine are 1 inch deep. I also measured the flange on a 700R4 in the garage. It's 3/4 of an inch thick, which leaves just 1/2 inch of engagement. I'd go for a 1 and 1/2 inch bolt, to get more thread engagement in the block.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...

But to solve all questions... tap the threads in the block, measure the depth of the threded bore. Then measure the thickness of the bellhousing. Round to the next lower 1/4", and there is your bolt size! Don't forget to add 1/4" for the xfer case strut!

But to solve all questions... tap the threads in the block, measure the depth of the threded bore. Then measure the thickness of the bellhousing. Add those two numbers, and round to the next lower 1/4", and there is your bolt size! Don't forget to add 1/4" for the xfer case strut!

For some reason (probably all the vibration they see) the bellhousing bolts sure seem to have a way of working out on GM vehicles. (Chevy, Olds, you name it) Last one I put together, I used lock washers. Sure it will tear the aluminum up a bit, but I'd much rather end up with a sharp edge than the tranny coming loose. FWIW. Just make sure you get as much thread engagement as you can. (longest bolts possible)

after driving my C20 for 2 months, I had some of the bolts rattle loose on it. I tightened them back up, and torqued them down pretty hard, and havn't had them back out since. of course, now that I replaced the transmission, I need to check thier tightness, and make sure they havn't worked out again.

looks like you have that bolt length taken care of, before you tighten them up make sure you have the flywheel to the converter bolt holes lined up. or you will be loosining them again, to turn it..done it.

Maybe it depends on year, but I thought all the manuals have aluminum bellhousings. (for quite some time) I see plenty of '84-down aluminum SM465 bellhousings, as well as the 85-ups (hydraulic) being aluminum. My '76 Sm465 bellhousing was aluminum, no idea if that was "stock" but I'd bet it was. I can't remember the last year of commonly used cast iron manual transmission bellhousings in cars, but it was probably mid 60's for GM. (all the late 60's Muncies I have or had are AL bellhousings) I'd have to say that trucks went to AL about the same time frame.

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