Kitchen Call: Broccoli rabe - the new kale?

Monday

Jul 14, 2014 at 11:26 AMJul 14, 2014 at 11:39 AM

By Linda BassettMore Content Now

I’ve had it with kale. I may have mentioned this from time to time. OK, often. But I’ve had it with kale for way too long. The hoopla. The icky green breakfast drinks. The slightly sandy shreds in everything from martinis to ice cream sundaes. That last was a bit of a stretch. But when will the fad fade?If we must eat leafy greens for longevity’s sake, why not broccoli rabe? It’s pretty. Little flowers that look like mini-broccoli on top of lots of leafy greens. The veggie enjoyed a brief moment of fame about 10 years ago, back when nobody knew how to spell it. So, if orange can be the new black, why can’t broccoli rabe be the new kale?So what to do with the stuff? First, you pick a nice perky bunch, preferably where people appreciate it so it sells out fast. No wilted or yellowed leaves, just deep blue-green with snappy stems. Resist the urge to stick it in a vase even though it looks like a bouquet of green flowers. Keep it in the vegetable drawer for up to five days. The health value decreases the longer it lingers.How to cook: Trim the thick part of the stems. Parboil the tops in heavily salted water. To cut the bitterness, use chicken stock in place of water. Drain. Stop the cooking in a bowl of cold water. Drain again. Set aside to finish any of the recipes here.From there you can try it as a side, a main with meat or a vegetarian main dish.AS A SIDE:Sauté in olive oil with these optional flavorings — garlic, chopped anchovy , hot red pepper flakes, black olives. Heap on a plate beside steak, chicken or chops. The bolder the added flavors the better it tastes.AS A MAIN DISH: BROCCOLI RABE WITH SAUSAGEMakes a 4 servingsI’ve seen this served up, trendy restaurant style, with a poached egg on top of each portion. When you cut into it, the yolk drizzles through and adds richness.2 tablespoons olive oil1 bunch broccoli rabe½ head fennel, bulb only, sliced crosswise6 of your favorite Italian sausage1 jar roasted red peppers or 3 whole home-roasted red peppers, drainedRed pepper flakes, to taste, optional1. Prepare the broccoli rabe as in the directions above. Set aside.2. Heat olive oil in a skillet. Add the fennel slices, and sauté until lightly golden and slightly tender. Set aside. Slice the sausage crosswise. Sauté in a skillet until browned. Take out the sausage and set aside.3. Add the peppers to the skillet and cook, stirring, until they are heated through. Set aside.4. Add the broccoli rabe to the skillet, cook until it begins to wilt. Add all the ingredients that were set aside and cook until heated through.AS A MEATLESS MAIN DISH: BROCCOLI RABE WITH LITTLE EARSMakes 6 servingsThis is a regional Italian dish made traditionally with pasta in the shape of little ears, orrechietti. They are sometimes difficult to find, so I find that little shell-shaped pasta makes a pretty good substitute.As it stands, this is a vegetarian entrée, but skipping the cheese makes it vegan. You may want to add some spicy red pepper flakes in that case or a light drizzle of really fragrant olive oil for flavor.1 head broccoli rabe2 tablespoons olive oil1 large clove garlic, cut in half1 pound orrechieti pasta1 cup hot chicken stockFresh grated parmigiano cheeseLots of black pepper, to tasteSalt, to taste1. Prepare the broccoli rabe as in the directions above. Set aside.2. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until it is lightly golden and fragrant. Be careful not to burn it. Burnt garlic is awful. Take out the garlic and discard. Put the broccoli rabe into the skillet, off the heat.3. Meanwhile, heat a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add a good handful of salt (the water should taste like the sea). Cook the pasta until barely tender. Drain and add to the skillet with the broccoli rabe.4. Toss the ingredients together over low heat until they are hot. Add the chicken stock, half a cup at a time, and continue tossing.5. Transfer to individual serving bowls and scatter with lots of parmesan cheese, sea salt, and black pepper.—— Linda Bassett is the author of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai: Neighborhood Cooking North of Boston.” Reach her by email at KitchenCall@aol.com, read her blog at LindABCooks.wordpress.com and follow her on Twitter @Kitchencall.