Blackbird

619 W. Randolph. West Loop. 312-715-0708.Contemporary. Some of David Posey’s dishes riff on familiar flavor patterns, but others take you to the far reaches of the flavor universe, such as butternut squash soup with roe, char, peaches, and stout foam.L Mon–Fri, D Mon–Sat. Wheelchair accessible, outdoor dining, high noise level. $$$$

Schwa

1466 N. Ashland. Wicker Park. 773-252-1466.Contemporary. Michael Carlson turns out brilliant food at this most unlikely BYO, where the kitchen staff are also the waiters. Don’t be surprised if candied sweetbreads and parsnip custard show up in dessert. Nine courses, $115. Securing a reservation can be trying.D Tue–Sat. BYO (up to $5 corkage), high noise level.$$$$

Takashi

1952 N. Damen. Bucktown. 773-772-6170.Contemporary French/Japanese. Takashi Yagihashi is as adept at cooking the classics (clay-pot chicken) as he is at coaxing the most delicate flavors into coexistence: Think scallops and soba gnocchi in Parmesan foam. A harmonious meal from start to finish.D Tue–Sun. Wheelchair accessible, child friendly, outdoor dining.$$$$

Tallgrass

1006 S. State, Lockport. 815-838-5566.Contemporary. The refined but vibrant cooking of Robert Burcenski is worth the trip. Sophisticated choices fill the three- to seven-course menus ($48 to $88). Stellar desserts and cheeses and a fine wine list.D Wed–Sun. Wheelchair accessible.$$$$

Topolobampo

445 N. Clark. River North. 312-661-1434.Mexican.Update: Rick Bayless forages in remote nooks of Mexico to bring incomparable new dishes to the most ambitious of his three restaurants on this busy corner, such as a wonderful Baja-inspired olive-wood-smoked quail coated in sunflower seeds and chilies. Yet there are always classics, too. Smooth service; intriguing wines and tequilas.L Tue–Fri, D Tue–Sat. Wheelchair accessible, child friendly.$$$$