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Topic: No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer (Read 11438 times)

Below I've copy/pasted my post from another forum. AJ recommended that I post it here. Also, I have my dryer apart right now. I could use some help.Thanks!babs

Hi Fella's!I'm having a problem with my Whirlpool Dryer. All of a sudden it stopped heating entirely. Everything else seems to be working okay ... just ice cold! I searched this site and performed a few inspections that seemed to be recommended to others with this problem.First ... I checked the circuit breaker at the box ... turned it off ... waited about 30 seconds and then flipped it back on. NO CHANGE!Second ... I checked the vent. I went outside to see if there was air flow through it. There was! I cleaned away some lint build up that I could reach, but I don't think that was causing a problem ... I hope.Third ... I checked the lint trap from inside the dryer. I again cleaned out any lint I could reach. I regularly wash the filter itself, so I know that isn't causing the problem.That's about it. I'm thinking (hoping) it's a fuse inside the dryer ... or the thermostat. What do ya'll think?Many years ago, I fixed our old dryer ... and our washer. Sears had had this service you could buy for $14.99 which gave you 30 days of step by step help over the phone. They helped me diagnose the problems, order the parts and then fix it myself with them on the phone guiding me through any tough parts. Unfortunately, that service is no longer available. SO, I'm here asking for help.I have the basic tools ... and I'm more than willing to get my hands dirty. Hopefully, there is someone out there with a little patience that is willing to help me out.I've pulled the dryer out and vacuumed the layers of dust ....WHAT DO I DO NEXT?Thanks to anyone taking pity on this old broad who's on a tight budget!babs

remove the back and to the right is the heat chamber where the heating element is. It has thick red wires going to the element and to the limit mounted on the side of the heater rated at 250 degrees F. above that at the top is another high limit rated at 300 degrees FThe dryer runs so the fuse mounted on the blower housing obviously ain't blown(it's wired into the lid switch) Remove one of the red wires to the element. remove one from each limit. Check these all for continuity. If any of these are open then it won't heat. If they all check out then their is a controling thermostat mounted on the blower housing. If it is open then their will be no heat. Lastly the fat red wire from the element comes from the timer terminal marked RH. If RH has no continuity when you turn the knob and try on any other terminal, then the contacts inside the timer is burned. Let me know what you find. Do you have a meter? if not let me know. I can show ya how to make a poor mans meter .

« Last Edit: March 05, 2008, 04:10:15 PM by JWWebster »

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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

Wow ... thanks for replying so quickly.No ... I do not have a meter. I was thinking of running over to Home Depot to pick one up. But, if I can fix this thing without it ... all the better.I have to mention one thing. I watched all the videos on this site, and when I opened up my dryer ... I thought there was a blanket of insulation covering everything. It was DIRT/LINT/DUST etc. I spent all day cleaning it out. Question ... is there a possibility that the dryer will work now that is can breathe? Also, my dryer is a model with the lint trap inside the door. It doesn't open from the back at all. I have the parts info I got from the Whirlpool site for this model. I can send it to you if you want. Just tell me where to send it. It's more than 120 KB so I can't attach it below.I'll wait to hear back from you.MANY MANY THANKS!!babs

Unfortunately diagnosing a dryer problem can be time-consuming without the aid of a meter. The very first thing a servicer would do is check for proper voltage at the wall plug. From there, it's an easy trip thru the little parts on the back of your dryer with the OHM meter. One meter...many uses. Without it, you are holding a shotgun and shooting at air.

Thanks Reapir-man! I guess I'll have to run out tomorrow and get that meter. I hope they're not too expensive!Also, the dryer layout you sent me isn't the one for MY dryer. My dryer does not open from the back at all. You have to go in through the front bottom panel. My lint filter is not on top of the dryer ... it's in the door.If you're interested, you can get the layout for this model (#GEQ9800LWS0) at the following whirlpool site ...

CONTINUING ON ... If you had to guess at a probable cause, what would it be? I was thinking of ordering those thermal fuse things. I have to get this dryer repaired fast, so I'd rather just order the "most obvious" parts I'll need. I just need some advice on which parts I should get ... and a little help down the road when I install them. I've identified most of the fuses, etc. on the dryer itself from the parts info I had downloaded. I think I can do this, I just need some help knowing what needs to be done. Understand?Thanks!babs

If not found during this check, things naturally will require a bit more time to trace the problem to its source. Heat is cycled from the main control board inside the top panel on the left. Your Duet dryer tech sheet points the way. Get your meter and lets get started.

Repair-man,Thanks. I'll have to go out tomorrow and get that meter. I was just hoping to get the parts "on their way" here. This old broad ain't gettin' any younger!! There isn't any chance that I'll be able to get the parts I need locally, is there?Anyway, I'll be back after I get the meter. I honestly don't know how to do that continuity check ... and electricity scares me to death so I'm overly cautious. I'll need some guidance ... hint! hint!Hope to talk with you again tomorrow ... PLEASE!Regards,babsPS I don't have a "DUET" dryer. It must be an odd ball though. Check out that site I sent in my last post if you have a chance. Or, I can send it to you via email.

Hay I was checking your model number and I see you have the Princess dryer. All the working parts of this bad baby can only be accessed from removing the lower front panel. The heating element just yanks out for easy replacement on this girl. it also has high limit mounted on the heating element. I have a secret tip for you. If all of them safetys check ok. Their is still one more safety and it is mounted behind the filter bladder. It blows when that filter housing gets all full of lint. To get to it you must remove the filter housing. Their you will see this little beaut. what does it look like? Well lets see.This fuse pictured is called a duct fuse. The dryer will still run but she won't heat. Like I said it is behind the filter housing. Hay while you have that housing off take it outside and give it a good squirt with the old water hose.Ain't nothing but a coupla 1/4 inch screws holding that filter housing on. It is a piece of cake.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL