How Do I Stop My Chain Jumping? | GCN Tech Clinic

– Welcome back to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic where I aim to solve and fix you bike related problems So if you've got one, leave it for me down there in the comment section below or alternatively, on all forms of social media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH and with no further ado, let's crack on with the first question this week and it comes in from Vrushali, who says, their chain is jumping on different cogs on the cassette

It mostly goes down on the lower gears What should I do for it? Right, it could be one of a couple of things really First of all, maybe your bikes taken a knock or you you've dropped it and then the rear derailleur hanger has become slightly bent which means you're not getting perfect gear changes If that is the case, then you can take it down to your local bike shop Pay them for a small amount just to straighten that back up, so you get good gear shifting

Alternatively, what it could well be is that the cables, which are changing your gears for you, have actually just become a little bit stretched So you are likely to just add a little bit of tension or even maybe reduce a little bit of tension, depending if someone else has had a look at it of the actual cable and by doing so, you're going to have perfectly indexed gears There's a link below in the description where you can find a video telling you just how to do that And next up is Douglas Now Douglas wants to know, they've just bought themselves a bike and it's got internal cable routing

Should they do anything special to get water out of the frame after riding in the rain and also can water even get into the frame tubes? Something I don't need to worry about, question mark Alright then Douglas, yeah a small amount of water can get inside of the frame tubes Normally, it's by the head tube because there's a little bit of gap there for water to get in and if you ride in rainy places such as the Uk, it happens Nothing generally though to really worry about because, in most cases, that water tends to drain out from the bottom bracket because we sent out a little hole in there, uh, for either cable guide to attach to or sometimes for a cable to run out and back in It all depends on your frame type or alternatively, the water can just find it's way out of a chainstay where we have holes there too, quite often

If you're really worried though about water becoming stuck inside of your frame, what you can do is just simply to remove your seatpost Take that out Turn the frame upside down and let it drop out, but really it's not something that tends to plague us very long It does just to find it works it's way out of the frame tubes And next up is Eugene

Now Eugene says that he loves the show Well that's good to hear and a quick question, Shimano 105 rear derailleur started making squeaking sound when starting the gear shift, at the moment when the cable is pulling Now you Eugene reckons it's coming from the rear derailleur pivots or something like that "Will I need to do some disassembly work on it or can it be lubed without taking a lot of things apart?" Yeah, Eugene, I wouldn't go taking apart all those pivots on the rear derailleurs because they're not really designed to be removed and re-inserted, replaced and everything Instead, get the bike and apply some silicone lubricant or something very similar to that from a bottle is going to be easier

Therefore, you can apply quite a precise amount and also really precisely too and that's important because you don't want it to go in everywhere You want it just to go in those pivot points Then it can soak its way in Now you are probably going to have to turn the bike upside down as well, so it can work in from all the different angles, but just be patient with it Something else it could be, and this plagues someone I know and I managed to track it down

I was so happy and chuffed with myself It could well be your rear derailleur outer housing, where it enters the barrel adjuster and also the ferrule there Where your putting just little bit of increased tension, when you change gear, it's causing that little squeaking sound So just have a look at where at, that either outer cable or ferrule, is sitting inside of the barrel adjuster and sometimes you just need to apply just a drop of lubricant there to just and try to free it up a little bit to try and remove that squeaking sound, but I reckon either those two suggestions will see you just right Alright then and next up we got Shahdin, who well take a little bit of advice here from a friend and he's unsure about it

Now Shahdin says that one of their friends advised them to not clean the bike with water Instead, clean it with a wet towel Uh, he said it seems painful and will take time, but it will be long lasting for the bike He also reckons that his rear wheel basically decided to fail because of washing it with water Hmm, now what your friend has said there, I don't know how good of friend it is, but I wouldn't listen to that advice, to be perfectly honest with you

Instead, I would use a hose pipe always, just to rinse down the frame and all the other parts, just try to rinse off any road debris, grit, stones, anything like that because if you go ahead with a wet towel and try and wipe it all clean, what's going to happen is any of those tiny bits of grit that are stuck on the frame, well you're going to start scratching the bike and your friend is not going to be a friend for very long Are they? Once you start to scratch that up As for ruining the back wheel and the hub, which they've said in there, try to avoid lots of water, you know, being aimed at any components with bearings in them because ultimately that water will get in there It's a slow, slow process, but you wanna try and prolong your components for as long as possible So in short, no, don't use a wet towel to clean your bike

Next up is Peter Peter's got a new bike and the rear derailleur on it is the Shimano R9100 rear mechs and that's one of the ones with the shadow style design Now Peter says they find it incredibly difficult to remove and replace the rear wheel on the bike Uh, they're even having to partly deflate the tire, in fact, to get it out He'd love to find a better way

"Any ideas?" Right then Peter, those designs of rear mechs actually have quite an increased amount of spring tension in the derailleur to try and pull the chain forward a little bit Basically to try and get better tension in the whole drivechain system, but the downside of that is in fact, like you say it, it does make the rear wheel slightly more difficult to get out, but once you've undone that quick release skewer, with one hand, try and rotate the rear derailleur backwards slightly and then just knock the wheel out You should be able to do that A-Okay, but like I say, the actual increased spring tension in those models of rear derailleur, it's trying to keep it pushed forward, but it can be a little bit troublesome So just put it back, whack at the wheel Jobs are good

Next up is a question from Ludwig Ludwig says they're looking to upgrade the crankset on their bike and at the moment, they've got the Shimano FC RS510 chainset Now the main reason for wanting to upgrade is that they want to get some shorter cranks because Ludwig has got too much toe overlap However, can they swap them out for a 105 or Ultregra crankset Not sure about the bottom bracket compatibility

Right then Ludwig, that model of chainset you got is one of the latest styles So it's not the old obsolete style bottom bracket or a square taper or anything Instead, you've got a 24mm axle diameter on your chainset, which means good news my friend You can put on a 105, an Ultegra, a Dura-Ace, anything which is using a Hollowtech II standard is going to work just fine Alright next up is Tineye, who've got themselves a new bike and they've settled on the position and they want cut down their steerer tube

However, they've got disk brakes on the bike, which is internally routed in the hydraulics system I'm reading between the lines Basically, Tineye, you just want to do this with least dismantling as possible, I reckon So what I could recommend to you is get the bike supported horizontally and then remove the stem from the steerer and then have marked out where you want to cut through the steerer tube, but importantly here too is to remember to use all your personal protection equipment, some sort of dust mask, gloves, safety specs, all those things and also cover up the head tube for example because you don't want any of the carbon dust to get inside of the actual headset bearings It starts contaminating them or anything like that because these particles are so small and fine they do get literally everywhere

So you can imagine now, you got the steerer tube and it's coming across you in front like that and then you can just simply saw through it Get through it as straight as possible because it is going to help the internal steerer bung too, to sit nice and flush with the top, if you've got one of those styles, but ultimately, yeah, that's a nice easy hack to do Just make sure you do clean up that carbon dust Don't blow it anywhere because it's not good stuff to get inside of your lungs Next up is Lecx

Now Lecx wants to know, uh, they're using Shimano 105 with a none series disk brake, mechanical ones, but they want to shift them over to hydraulic disk brakes "Is it possible to do so with the same mechanical levers or do I have to get new ones? If so, what else, other than the levers, should I also change?" Well Lecx, the good news is for you, you don't need to go ahead and change those levers because there is in fact, a few different options out there for you to investigate One of them is the TRP HY/RD, I think it's called, uh, which is a mechanically operated, hydraulic disk brake caliper So you use your standard cables It goes in and attaches and then it controls hydraulic pistons inside there

Winning all day long Check it out Alright and final question is in from David Veasey, who says, "Can I set up Shimano Di2 with Synchro shift and use the hidden buttons to shift up and down or alternatively set both of the left lever buttons to shift up and both of the right ones to shift down, similar to what the the SRAM eTap system is, thus making it easier to use with gloves?" Right David, the good news is for you is that you can Using Shimano's E-Tube software, you can go on in and you can program away all those shift buttons to your hearts content and play around Uh, I even know a friend of mine once pranked someone by plugging their bike into it and changed all the setting overnight and the next day went out to ride and he didn't have a clue what was going on with the buttons, but yeah, you can do that and it's actually really good and in fact, you can even do it with a Campagnolo EPS too uh, cuz I saw Caleb Ewan at the Tour Down Under

He was playing around, trying to find the optimal way and basically just change his gears because he'd been using Shimano for a number of seasons beforehand, but yeah just plug it in to the E-tube software and have a little investigation Right, I do hope I've been able to help answer and solve your bike related problems If you've got one, remember to submit it down there in the comment section below or alternatively on social media using the hashtag #ASKGCN Also like and share this video with your friends, big ol' thumbs up Don't forget to check out the GCN shop at shop

globalcyclingnetworkcom and now for another crackling video, how about clicking just down here