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Given that there are no fewer than six Thai restaurants on the Hell's Kitchen blocks between 49th Street and 53rd Street, we're unofficially calling this neighborhood Little Bangkok. The latest addition, Wondee Siam ll, pushes the boundary a little farther north. Named in classic Mulberry Street fashion after the first tiny Wondee Siam takeout joint, which resides across the avenue and is bathed in enough fluorescent wattage to light Shea Stadium, Siam II is a relatively posh and low-lit spin-off with 45 seats, linen napkins, a rose on every table, and an expanded menu of tangy, fiery salads like laab gai (minced chicken with red onion, scallions, chilis, and lime juice), crispy-duck salad with cashews and pineapple, and well-balanced curries from subtly spiced to fierceóthe sort of thing food snobs refer to as "good for New York" Thai.
— Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld