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The Tipsy Diaries: Eggnog With a Twist

By The New York Times December 9, 2010 1:44 pmDecember 9, 2010 1:44 pm

Fred R. Conrad/The New York TimesJulie Reiner of Lani Kai.

In Frank Bruni’s latest Tipsy Diaries column, he challenges three bartenders to create an alternative to traditional eggnog, that calorie extravaganza and cholesterol jubilee. Below is a guide to their takes on the holiday drink. Do you love eggnog? Share your thoughts and own versions.

Egg Not
(By Julie Reiner of Lani Kai in Manhattan)

Before you start, you’ll need to prepare Demerara syrup and toasted coconut milk.

For the syrup, dissolve two parts Demerara sugar in one part water in a saucepan on low simmer. Stir constantly and skim off any film that forms.

Fred R. Conrad/The New York TimesThe Egg Not

For the milk, toast one cup of shredded coconut in a 350-degree oven for about 25 minutes or until a deep golden brown. Add shredded coconut to a can of coconut milk and simmer on low, stirring constantly until the milk has absorbed the toasted flavor and is light tan in color. Strain with a fine-mesh strainer immediately, pressing until all the liquid has been expressed.

On to the drink: combine in a cocktail shaker an ounce and a half of Appleton VX rum, a half-ounce of Cruzan Black Strap Rum, a half-ounce of falernum, a quarter-ounce of Demerara syrup, an ounce of toasted coconut milk, two dashes of Fee Brothers aromatic bitters, and three-quarters of an ounce of egg whites. Shake, add ice, then shake thoroughly again. Strain into a cocktail glass and top with freshly grated nutmeg.

To Holland With Love
(A variation on the Tom & Jerry cocktail by Katie Stipe of Vandaag in Manhattan)

For this drink, you have to make batter and mulled cider before any mixing can begin.

For the batter, separate six egg whites and yolks. Be sure to use fresh organic eggs from a source you trust as they will be raw in the drink.

In a bowl, whip the yolks to a silky texture and add three-quarters of a teaspoon of toasted and ground ras el hanout; a quarter teaspoon of toasted and ground blade mace; a pinch of salt; and an ounce of aged rum. With a whisk, gradually add half a cup of superfine sugar.

Fred R. Conrad/The New York TimesTo Holland With Love

In another bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then gradually add a quarter cup of superfine sugar. With a spatula, gradually fold the egg white mixture into the yolk mixture.

The batter, which has a lifespan of about an evening, is enough for 20 to 25 drinks.

For the cider, in a large stock pot combine a cup of squash juice (literally squash that has been peeled and cored and put through a juice extractor); a half-gallon of fresh apple cider; 5 pieces of star anise; 5 allspice berries; 10 cinnamon sticks; 5 cloves; 5 cardamom pods; 10 black peppercorns; a quarter teaspoon of fresh grated nutmeg; the zest of a small orange; and a half-cup of light brown sugar.

Sit on a low heat for two to three hours (until the desired infusion of spices), then strain out the spices through a sieve or cheesecloth.

On to the cocktail: In a glass or mug, combine two ounces of the batter, an ounce of Bols genever and a half-ounce of bonded applejack. Slowly add three ounces of the hot mulled cider and finish with grated nutmeg.

Bah Humbug
(By Johnny Swet of Jimmy in Manhattan)

Fred R. Conrad/The New York TimesBah Humbug

In a glass shaker, combine one and a half ounces of seven-year-old Flor de Caña rum, a half ounce of Tuaca liqueur; a bar spoon each of Grand Marnier, Velvet Falernum and Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur; and four dashes of orange bitters. Stir with ice and strain into a glass.

Video

Tipsy Diaries: Experiments With Eggnog

Frank Bruni, a former restaurant critic for The Times, challenges three bartenders to find new versions of the old holiday drink.