Diaphanous with grease and perfectly piled on the plate like a Chinese lantern or maybe the Michelin Man's thigh, the onion rings at BLT Steak seem to glow with some inner light, and picked up one after another and consumed with a word of blessing, they could constitute a religion.

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Our long pork-belly winter has faded into the back-ground. Following the dictates of our foodie patriarchs, we've obediently sucked down hundredweights of lard, butter, and tallow, and generally treated our weary corpses as oleagino...