Tuesday, December 30, 2008

This is my choice for a parting photo to remember them by.The fantasy is to get together here again next year.hmmmmmm. Or at least in the states somewhere.California? Texas? A farewell meal at Chiang Mai's Blue Diamondrestaurant. We'll miss their fun perspective andgreat conversations.

Here is a quick photo from the song theauw on the wayback to Chiang Mai. Rice harvest time is pretty muchover for the year in this area.Only a couple of engineers (and Keith) would study at great lengththe mineral content score of the hot spring's baths.Watching kids play in the warm pool at SamKaphaengHot Springs was altogether almost too fun to leave. This was also our last day before the couple with whom wehad spent several recent outings were scheduledto leave for Luang Prabang -- and points beyond.

Ever see a monument to the egg? I sure hope theyrecycle the little baskets. It all made it seem closerto Easter than the actual two days from Christmas.Further downstream where the 105 degrees began tocool a bit, were places where we could sit and soakour feet. Many folks were enjoying the relaxing waters.Just downstream from the geyser is this hot water tank withhooks from which you hang your little basket of eggs. Thereis a sign nearby that tells you how long to leave them in."3 min - soft boil, 9 min. half done, 15 min well done 105 degrees."It must have been a cool day (it WAS December) becauseafter 30 min, it was only half done. We ate themanyway -- well, 3 out of 4 of us did. I preferred the localfood shop version of som tam thai with sticky rice.James, Irama and I check out the mechanics of what'shappening to the natural geyser. It is capped witha pipe of the correct diameter to allow for a spectacularspout. It's constant so no ETA is needed - unlike Old Faithful.17.5 miles east of Chiang Mai (20 km east of SamKhampang)are these hot spring geysers. This is a popular place for Thaifamilies. We saw very few farang this day, but many Thaipeople enjoying the warm waters, public mineral baths,and boiling eggs.

Sunday, December 28, 2008

And mine is the standing Friday Buddha.Want to know what yours is?Each day of the week has a governingBuddha image. Here is Keith's which isthe Thursday Buddha.Lots of things to talk about as we put our shoesback on.Irama gets a good shot of the worshipers surroundingthe central chedhi, a 16th century gold covered extensionof the original. The four multi-tiered gold leafed filigreeumbrellas at the corners, are very important for Thai families.

Elephants, Elephants, Elephants! These handsomebeasts are the base of the lampposts throughoutthe temple grounds.

I guess every culture might have its own versionof the monument pole. "Bauta" in Norsk. TheseThai versions were intricately carved with culturallysignificant symbols.The water reservoir was nicely done. The dancing aeratorswere set to music -- a bit anachronistic, but not unpleasant.You only had to accept where you were. Functional for sure.But there WAS this little guy at the base of the giantbamboo. He seemed intent on climbing and climbing, but thenhe fell back down. We named him Sysiphus.Just a colorful shot. . . .and then there were roses galore.Too many to photograph actually. So I didn't.What is it with engineers? Irama and Keith puzzle overthe map of the gardens. James shrugs with patience.

The bamboo is big here too. The guys are onlythere to give scale to the poles.Then there is the requisite photo op before thegorgeous orchids.I want a job like this!

Peg was rather excited about the size of the Poinsettiatrees. Irama, a native of Indonesia, was only Ho-hum. Apparently they grow that way in the tropics.Catching a song taeuw (or however you spell it) outto the gardens at the Royal Palace which is some distanceup Doi Suthep mountain just beyond the favored localtemple by the same name, proved to make the mostsense if we just hired the driver for the afternoon. Thatway, he could wait for us, take us to the gardens AND the templeand we'd have a ride home. The driver thought itwas a good idea too. 500 baht for him and we split$US15+four ways. Very OK!

Friday, December 26, 2008

6:00 AM and "the dawn comes up like thunder ..."over the city. We also have ring side seats for thefireworks that seem frequent and usually for reasonsunknown to us. Thai people just like fireworks.

Note: I know we wrote to many of you that we wouldbe spending Christmas in Cambodia. Obviously our planschanged. What happened was our friend, Roger who wasto be our leader on the adventure, was hurt in anaccident as his school. He fell over a student on the stairsand was banged up enough that he did not feel up totraveling. So we decided to become residents of Chiang Maiinstead of tourists, and we took up residence at theChondoi Condohotel. The cost was reasonable enoughthat we could afford to keep it as a base and travel outfrom there. Roger is getting better and x-rays said nothingwas broken.Stepping off the quick elevator and in only a few stepswe are at our door on the 12th floor. This will alsobe a test of how we really like condo living - the kind ofthing we threaten ourselves with when yardwork and housemaintenance get too troubling. We are pretty surewe won't like it. ...and No birds sing, well, not much but we do have a gecko.But no mosquitos as they can't fly up 12 stories.And of course there is high speed internet. We cancontinue to skype Anya with webcam and generallyresearch places and traveling. We did not know thenthat there would be a significant temptation to juststay "home" and pretend we live here. Several other ex-patsreside here, but most neighbors are Thai grad studentsas this is near the university. And AWAY from the tourist scene.While I was dyeing with the ladies, Keith took care ofthe business of renting a condo for a month. We haddecided it only made sense. We saw it as an opportunityto keep an inexpensive place from which we could affordto explore about the country and still come back to.We, "The Girls" --acquaintances of like-minded ladies:Irama from Indonesia via Texas and Erica from Austriavia Sweden took a day together and signed up for a happyBatik class offered by a local artist in her home. Suchgood instruction and materials that it was impossible tomake a poor product.

Late December in a city that caters to touristscomes replete with Christmas symbols but many ofthese lights are all year events.

I found these bamboo umbrella struts drying in thesun rather charming.Heading out of town a bit to see some of the handicrafts,a few of us accept a ride from a relative of the hotelmanagement to where she works stopping at a few othershops on the way back.It was still a vibrant and fun place to be. This familyseems at home and enjoying a very clever means oftransport. You can also get an idea of how narrow thestreets are.This movable feast of oranges is the kind of thingyou'll see making its way along the narrow streets ofold town Chiang Mai inside the old wall and its definingmoat. Our little NE corner was only one of severalguest house/trekker catering neighborhoods. Whileit was considerably less crowded than normal (so wewere told) due to economic and political issues it still seemedvery gringoized to us. When the menus are ONLY inEnglish, there's something not quite right.

The Sunday night market (not to be confused withthe other night market) was an amazing and crowdedplace. Here this excellent sushi was enjoyed at the feetof the three kings while watching local communitytheater groups give a rendition of something we had absolutelyno clue about.a corner market where it is possible to find nearlyeverything. With a fridge in our room, we couldkeep a good supply of fruit.The Three Kings monument and landmark had an additional meaningduring this holiday season. Religion aside,you must admit these are handsome fellows.At another wat, the elephants are getting a bath. Wewonder if the light yellow monk garb signifies novice monks,and his toothbrush duty some kind of merit making task.My favorite chedi from last time, the Chedi Luong.I love the elephant's halves that are stepping outto challenge intruders. Apparently the large portionmissing from the top was a victim of an earthquake inthe 15th century. Some sources say it was from cannonfire in 1775 when it was recaptured from the Burmese.Keith insisted on a monk chat. It was pleasant -our monk was an authority on British poetry.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Our new neighborhood had considerably morepopulation density. Family life spilled out on the sidewalks.Indeed the corner laundry lady's little boy was doinghis homework when we came to pick up our laundry.We got into a silly pattern of photographing elephants forour granddaughter, Anya, who seemed pleased to seethem. There certainly was a variety.This life-sized guy was quite glittery.Of course there was the requisite neighborhood walkaboutsto explore the numerous wats. Here for an additional $10/night we had really goodhigh speed wi-fi and could contact family and catch upwith other correspondence and planning.As much as we liked the setting of Je T'ame we reluctantlyhad to admit that we needed access to internet. So,turning our backs on this 200 baht/night room (about 6$US)we moved into the old city environs inside the moat toanother residence house.

Other features of Wat Ket Karam include a residentgray and white cat unbelievably clad in a red and whitesanta suit. To protect him from the frigid 70 degreewinter I guess. There was also a strangely misplacedManiken Pis, albeit a terra cotta version.This handsome Naga and mythological gecko-likecritters lining apsara door decor were residents of theneighborhood Wat Ket Karam, an especiallyfun wat as they housed a drum museum and local boys were pounding out some pretty powerful rythms ongenuinely traditional instruments. Here at the corner of the flower market are the redsong teaws that proved to be the main mode ofgetting around CM. They have a good bus system, butno one seems to use it. Tuk Tuks are also common.The walk to the "action" was along west bank ofthe River Mae Ping. She is a broad river with touristboats going and coming. The Warorot Market and theflower market as well as the famed night markets, werejust across the nearest bridge.

The courtyard of the restful and lovely Je T'ameGH in Chiang Mai looking toward our very pleasantroom. The innkeeper was a very kind and serene lady whomade us welcome even at a way too early hour.The train had arrived at 5:30 AM, but we managedto stall the song teauw driver for a few hours beforetaking us there. The location was a bit away fromthe concentrated old-city/tourist scene, yet close enoughfor a nice walk to get there -- if we wanted. Which wereally didn't. We relished this chance to catch our breathand collect ourselves.