A complete guide to the best all-American brews--pale ale, Pilsner, wheat beer, and stoutBy Stephen Beaumont

Invented in, and named for, the Czech town of Pilsen, these are the ancestors of every blond lager on the planet, but also a specific style unto themselves. Normally fairly hoppy, they broadly fit into one of three classes: Czech Pilsners, with a floral, sometimes buttery maltiness that serves to balance the bitterness; German Pils, with their more austere bodies and assertive, crisp bitterness; and Continental lagers, with more mild hoppiness and hints of sweet malt. Wonders in the summer heat, they are among the most thirst-quenching of beers.

Victory Prima Pils -- The brewery doesn't specify, but this is undoubtedly in the German style, with a crisp, dry, and almost biscuity malt character and plenty of appetizing hoppiness. Try it the next time you're in search of a purely refreshing brew. (www.victorybeer.com)

Samuel Adams Boston Lager -- Widely available and equally widely known, "Sam" is really too dark and malty to be considered a true Pilsner, but its dry bitterness and balanced, lightly caramelly taste bring it close enough to the Czech style that it merits inclusion here. A perfect complement to bar foods such as nachos. (www.samueladams.com)

Lagunitas Pils -- Czech-style Pilsners are usually seasoned with a particularly floral hop called Saaz, which this beer shows immediately in its perfumey aroma. Its light, malty sweetness makes it a fine accompaniment to goat cheese canapés at your next party. (www.lagunitas.com)

Schell Pilsner -- The product of one of America's oldest breweries, Minnesota's August Schell, this Pilsner emulates the fuller, richer character of a pre-Prohibition lager. It also sports a firm but faintly sweet maltiness and a dry, rather than bitter, hop finish. Well-suited to grilled fish or chicken. (www.schellsbrewery.com)