I just added in what I think will be my last three pairs of DSR ICs. So, now, I have DSR ICs coming out of my Oppo, and into my Zektor switch, and out of that into the Ultra. I also have them running from the Ultra to one of the Toriis, and finally, from my Dolby Digital decoder into the Zektor switch. (BTW, the Zektor switch is a huge improvement over what I had been using.)

The two places I don't have DSR ICs are on the longer 4-meter runs from the Ultra to the second Torii and the Taboo. For those two runs, I use the AudioQuest Silver Extreme ICs available from HCM Audio that I believe Lon referred me to. For runs over one-meter, those prices are very hard to beat at that quality.

Nico, I love your method of fast break-in. Very clever, but is it as effective as variegated signals using discs like the Esoteric audio break-in disc?

Don't know, after the method described I plug the cable into my system and play the Karma burn-in cd for 24 hours and I'm done.After that my cables sound much smoother and balanced than when purchased.The first cable I did this way still has the same neutrality and smoothness so to speak; it did not develope any further.You should try it to know if it works for you; it is a cheap experiment.Like we say over here; "there are many ways to get to Rome"Good luckNico

Yep, you;re right about the ROME thing. About my remarks about burning-in cables ; I never said my way is better, it is CHEAPER.Beeing a restorer of classic Mercedes cars, I'm often asked to integrate a good [BIG] sound system, navi, cruise control, electric windows, you name it, in a car that does not have a wire harness suitable to handle the extra currents.So calculating and rewiring a car means taking in account the continous maximum current needed per fuse etc. [easy enough].One day, after a unsatisfying evening of listening with new cables, I took them to the workshop and just connected the signal wire like mentioned in my other post to a big battery and a lightbulb. Later I tortured new speakerwire, powering a startermotor drawing 90 amps out of another big 12 Volts battery and a time-relay "pushing the button" for 10 seconds on-five minutes off. After the battery gave up I took the cables home, connected them.....and they sounded like shit. [sorry for the bold expression]. Only after I reversed the signal flow [connecting the speaker where the startermotor had been] I found myself listening untill 3 o'clock in the morning. Lesson learned; be sure to mark which side comes where ,BEFORE burning-in, and be carefull during the whole process how you wire everything!So this process was just a idea put to use, and in my case turned out to be working very well. I have not felt the need for trying out other cables since. [no more craving for "better" cables at last.... ]Nico