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I received an email from a Gazette reader a few weeks back asking me to suggest a white wine region to explore. She described herself as a “red wine drinker in transition,” and had been following my riesling series. But she wanted to go deeper into another style of white — my choice.

I love having “carte blanche.” So how about the wines from one of the world’s most underrated white wine appellations? Welcome to Soave.

Why underrated? Like many Italian appellations — Chianti and Valpolicella are good examples — Soave went through a stretch when quantity as opposed to quality was the main focus. When the region was granted appellation status in 1968, it was made too large and included growing sites that were outside of the historical growing area, and far less interesting. It’s understandable. Soave was a recognized brand and everyone wanted to capitalize on its fame. Over the next 30 years, more and more land was added to the appellation.

Lesser growing sites wasn’t the only problem. Many of these producers were producing way too many grapes per vine. The result was wine that, while inexpensive, was often diluted and pretty flavourless.

Things were so bad during the 1990s that one of the region’s best winemakers, Roberto Anselmi, decided to remove the name Soave from his bottles in 2000. His reasoning, which he wrote in an open letter to the Soave consortium of wine producers, was that too many wineries were making poor quality wine.

“Unfortunately,” he wrote, “the market mistakes one for the other: the bad vine chases the good vine away!”

Well, that was in the past. Today’s Soave is a far different place and while there are still some less-than-excellent wines being produced, some wineries have been raising the bar with each vintage.

The main grape of the region is garganega, which is very sensitive to yields. While the same can be said for any variety, garganega is pretty subtle, even when it is grown with care and harvested at low yields. At least a vine like pinot grigio, which is also grown throughout the Veneto region, offers good acidities and lots of aromas when cropped high.

While Anselmi still labels his wines as Veneto Igt, perhaps that was the wake-up call that people needed. Today, there are producers who make some of the best white wines in all of Italy. So where do you look?

Start by looking at the label, and the designation “Classico.” For a wine to be labelled Soave Classico, the grapes must be grown in the original growing area on the hillsides near the towns of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. And much of the soil in this area is one of the rarest types — volcanic, which is poor in nutrients and forces the vines to struggle. There is something magical about volcanic garganega. Again, this grape is about subtlety, so don’t expect some sort of hyper-perfumed, deeply rich wine. But the best examples often show aromatics of white flowers, lemons, almonds and, in many cases, a pretty intense minerality.

For those who are not fans of high-acid wines like sauvignon blanc, Soave usually show moderate acidities, so you will still get that creamier texture, especially if they spend some time being barrel-aged. For comparison, I have often referred to the best Soaves as Italy’s version of Chablis. And much like the best Chablis, they can also gain even more depth with a few years in a cellar.

Serving well-made Soave is easy as it is one of the more versatile wines out there. Excellent for an apéritif, they are great with oysters and lighter fish, and the richer versions can handle a pasta with cream sauce, and even lobster. I had a 2005 Soave from Suavia that paired magnificently with corn on the cob. Much like Chablis, Soave has the capacity to support and rarely overwhelm whatever you serve. Look at today’s suggestions for a few great examples, and for something really special, Pra’s 2012 Monte Grande in the wines of the week.

> Chardonnay on the brain

The International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (I4C) is a three-day chardonnay lovefest held each summer in Ontario’s Niagara region. From July 18 to 20, 58 of the world’s foremost chardonnay producers from around the world will pour their wines for you. You can taste wines in the region’s most scenic vineyards or enjoy wine and culinary showcase events with live entertainment, all focused around chardonnay. Signature event tickets start at $75. Details and tickets: www.coolchardonnay.org; 905-309-9487.

> Some suggestions: Try these complex whites to get a true taste of the Soave region

Veneto Igt 2013, San Vincenzo, Anselmi, Italy white, $17.50, SAQ #585422. Pineapple and white grapefruit dominate the aromatics, with a hint of honeydew melon and clover. Minerality is there, too, tucked away under the fruit. The sauvignon blanc in the blend is there, almost dominating the wine despite being less than 20 per cent of the mix. Not your typical Soave, but this is fun to drink. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, asparagus.

Veneto Igt 2012, Capitel Foscarino, Anselmi, Italy, white, $24.75, SAQ #928218. Richly textured Soave that shows a touch of sweetness on the finish. Is it the lees stirring or a hint of residual sugar? Not sure, but the result is one of the bigger garganega wines I have tasted. Spicy, ripe, with fruit bordering on the exotic and a solid mineral intensity on the finish. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster, crab.

Soave Classico 2012, Monte Fiorentine, Ca’Rugate, Italy white, $20.55, SAQ #10775061. Long lees contact have given it a rich, creamy mid-palate. But the fruit is good — white grapefruit, a touch of orange, enhanced by a subtle mineral note. Could use a bit more drive, but for the price, a good entry into the higher-end world of Soave. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, richer fish dishes.

Soave Classico Superiore 2011, Vigneti Foscarino, Inama, Italy white, $25.05, SAQ #907428. Great Soave from an exceptional winery. Subtle notes of peach, pears, browning apples, maybe a touch of a bay leaf-type herb, all wrapped around a soft, mineral core. But this is about drinkability — rich, expansive, fresh. One of those wines that can be drunk with almost anything, at any time. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster.

Soave Classico 2012, Calvarino, Pieropan, Italy white, $26.60, SAQ #741058. Lean and mean, this shows its volcanic origins. Mineral, mineral and more mineral. There is a notion of fruit, but this is all rock. As it warms, it gets even more textured. Almost Alsatian riesling-like in its structure. Very good. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster, sole amandine.

You can hear Bill Zacharkiw talk about wine on CHOM-FM (97.7) every Friday at 7:45 a.m.

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