Herringbone Hat

The herringbone pattern is, of course, traditionally woven, yet it routinely “weaves” its way into the knitting world. Here on the Purl Bee, this classic zigzag has inspired chunky cowls, handsome scarves, and now a hat, too!

This Herringbone Hat depends on texture for its herringbone-ness and on logical engineering for its structure. To highlight both I knit up my hats in Purl Soho’s gorgeous Mulberry Merino. A delicious blend of silk and merino, the silk reflects the light and draws attention to the riveting texture, while the merino keeps the whole thing shipshape!

This particular herringbone stitch pattern is created by simple slip stitches, no fancy maneuvers or fussy tricks. And like the herringbone pattern itself, the Herringbone Hat, with its clever construction and compelling details, is sure to become a knit classic! -Laura

PS- To see Instagram photos of this project being worn click here and here!

Work Second Half of Hat

Repeat the entire pattern one more time, starting with the Increase (Stitch Pattern Slants Right) section.

Bind off in knit stitch.

Finish

With wrong sides together, fold the piece in half so that you can seam the hat together.

Hold the cast on and bind off edges parallel. Use a tapestry needle threaded with the working yarn to sew the two edges together (NOTE: I used contrast yarn for demonstration purposes). Sew under the knit stitch at the cast on edge and then under the knit stitch directly opposite at the bind off edge.

Continue back and forth for the length of these straight edges.

Continue seaming up the slanted edges, now using Mattress Stitch. Continue in Mattress Stitch along the top edge and then down the second slanted side.

If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern, after the comment box.

Follow the easy on-screen instructions for customizing what parts of the pattern you want to delete for printing (for example, certain images or the list of materials).

Thank you Molly! I never noticed that wee button to print patterns! Makes life sooooo much easier now that I know that! THANK YOU for all the lovely patterns, photos, and of course the encouragement to try something new!

I’m so sorry to hear you’re having problems with this! What happens when you go to the print button? I just downloaded a copy onto my iPhone so I’m fairly confident that it’s working. Here’s what I did….

Go to the print button and from there hit “PDF” then hit the “download pdf” button when prompted and a new window should open with the PDF.

If this didn’t answer your question please email us directly at purlbee@purlsoho.com and we can try to get to the bottom of your issue!

Thank you ever so much for sharing yiu r free patterens with us, I am a low income family and this allows for me to save money and have something to do in what little spare time I have. You are earthly Angels. God bless you all.

Hi Nexeida.
You can download all of our patterns to print or save as a PDF!

If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern, just above the comments.

Follow the easy on-screen instructions for customizing what parts of the pattern you want to delete for printing (for example, certain images or the list of materials).
Thanks.
Laura

Hi Tory.
Thanks for writing in and great question. Usually I put a bullet point in the NOTES section addressing this, but I think we forgot on this pattern!
The stitches should be slipped purlwise.
Thanks again!
Laura

Hi Eileen.
Purlwise! Slip them purlwise. Otherwise the dense row gauge of this fabric will be even denser and tighter! Thanks for asking this question. I am going to add a note in the pattern about this.
Laura

I just started knitting this hat, and before I get too far, I am just wondering how much stretch there is in this hat. If my head measures about 21 inches, should I make the adult large, or should I go down to the adult small for a snug fit?

Hi Eleni.
Great question! There should end up being about 2 inches of give. So if you’re head is 21 inches, I recommend you make the 19-inch circumference size! This way the hat with gently hug your head and not easily fall off.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura

your pattern is beautiful. I am trying to knit this hat, however : what is m1purlwise, is it the same as m1l ? I would appreciate an answer before I start. Thank you so much for all your lovely things.

Hi Margaret.
Thanks for the kind words about the pattern!
To m1 purlwise (make 1 purlwise)… with the left needle pick up the strand between the previous and next stitch from front to back, purl through the back loop. For quick reference you can find this explanation if you take a look in the NOTES section, under ABBREVIATIONS.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks. -Laura
Laura

hi laura
i’m not sure i understand m1 purlwise correctly in comparison to m1l….is the difference that -once the strand is on the left needle-i pull through the loop from the back/behind and purl ?(while in m1L i would go in from the front…) hope i’m expressing myself clearly.
after knitting the elfin hat i’m looking forward to start this project. thank you so much for your wonderful work! you have the best web site ever! wish you had a store here in zuerich!

Hi Nicoletta.
Great question! They are very similar! The difference between the two is that one is worked as a knit (m1L) and one is worked as a purl (m1 purlwise). For both, you pick up the strand from front to back, but then with m1L you KNIT through the back loop and with m1 purlwise you PURL through the back loop.

I do hope that makes sense! Please let me know if I’m not being clear or if you have any additional questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura

It is so beautiful! I am just starting and i have a question for row 1 : I knit 2 then I slip 2 stitches with yarn in the front then : do I put the yarn in the back then knit 2 again or do I keep knitting the 2 stitches with yarn in the front ? Thanks a lot for your site and patterns. I am a fan!

Thank you very much for writing in! I am sorry about the delayed response! For Row 1 you will knit 2 then slip 2 wyif. Then you move the yarn to the back to knit the next 2 stitches. If you have further questions, please let us know! Again, thank you for taking time to comment!

1. I’m making this hat in the largest size. After knitting several inches I realized it couldn’t possibly stretch to half of the 21.5 required inches. I’m using your yarn and my gauge is correct.
2. The photo under “Work Second Half of Hat” shows the two halves are joined – and the directions do not call for casting on for the second side. I wonder if that second half is continuous with the first and if so how you accomplished it.
Thank you – the Mulberry Marino yarn is so easy to work with and the herringbone pattern knits up nicely.

Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. This hat is knit from the side seam to side seam in one piece. To get a better sense of this, refer to the picture below “Work Second Half of Hat”. You work from the top to the bottom in this picture. That is to say that you cast on the hat sideways at one of the short side seams, increase for the body of the hat, decrease to the next side seam, increase for the body of the other side of the hat and then decrease to the side seam again. You will not need to cast on more stitches as the hat is knit flat in one piece.

I’m just getting started on the herringbone hat and I’m a little confused about the
“make one” increases. It seems like there are three different kinds of increases here: m1L, m1R, and m1purlwise. Please help. Thanks.

Thank you for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you need to order another skein to finish your hat, I know that can be very frustrating! We haven’t had many folks who have needed to dip into a second skein to make the adult large, but it’s definitely not unheard of. Differences in knitting tension can be a factor in this – someone who is a tight knitter may need a bit more yardage to complete a project, do you happen to know if you’re gauge is right on or is it a bit smaller than 28 stitches and 54 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern and 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch?