IT'S A RESTAURANT name with real charisma: Balaboosta. Yiddish for "perfect housewife, homemaker, wonderful mother, cook and gracious hostess," it fits chef Einat Admony's casual place in Manhattan's Nolita neighborhood to a T. "I wanted to serve unpretentious food that would make people feel at home," Ms. Admony said. "Food with big flavors that is easy to understand."

Take this recipe for mussels cooked with shallots, fennel, tomatoes and herbs in a mixture of white wine and ouzo, Ms....