Winter Highlights: Fabulous food

Seasonal Rhythm

Japan In-depth

In this age of year-round
factory food, Japan provides unique opportunities to savor the
taste of each season, and winter can be especially delicious.

As you travel
around the country, look out for racks of squid, octopus and
an astonishing assortment of fish being salt-dried on quays
and beaches.

In Sapporo, you'll be amazed at the variety of seafood,
and especially crabs, at the fish market, Nijo Ichiba. One of
Nagano Prefecture's cottage industries is kori-dofu, wind-dried
cubes of tofu that end up with a brittle, dry sponge-like consistency.
In Nara Prefecture, Miwa's somen noodles dry naturally in the
sun in winter.

Winter is also the peak time for brewing sake in the traditional
way. Ask at your hotel: there may be a local brewery that welcomes
visitors.

Japan Times Food Correspondent Robbie Swinnerton is delighted
to share a fab five of Wonderful Winter Foods,
and he recommends the following restaurants for a gourmet on
the move seeking the essence of Japanese winter cuisine.

Kawasaki
2-13-1 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo.
Tel +81 3 3631 2529
This classic restaurant in Ryogoku, not far from Japan's top
sumo arena, serves a very superior, chicken-based chanko. The
sumo connection is strong, as the founder (the father of the
present master) was himself a wrestler.

Tentake
6-16-6 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku. Tokyo.
Tel +81 3 3541 3883
While the main center for tora-fugu is Shimonoseki, much of
the catch is shipped to Tokyo. One reputable (and safe!) place
to sample this delicacy is Tentake, a large restaurant close
to the wholesale market in Tsukiji.

Taraba-gani
Snow crab is at the peak of its season in midwinter. The best crabs
come from the Japan Sea and from the waters to the north of Hokkaido.

Fugu
Winter is also the peak season for fugu - blowfish - the best variety
of which is the tora ("tiger") fugu. It also contains
the deadliest toxins, which is why chefs have to obtain special
licenses before they are allowed to serve it.

Oden
There is something very comforting about sitting around the slowly
simmering oden pot, nibbling on long-cooked daikon, kamaboko or
atsu-age (deep-fried tofu). Many people consider it the perfect
accompaniment to sake.

Kiritanpo
Kiritanpo is a specialty of Akita Prefecture, where they know all
about cold weather. It's a hearty nabe casserole made with the local
hinai-jidori chickens, plenty of vegetables, and special rice dumplings
that are grilled over charcoal.
Chanko nabe
A bubbling stew pot of seafood, meat, tofu and vegetables is the
favorite food of sumo wrestlers. If this doesn't keep you warm in
winter, nothing will!

But now, after all that food, you'll be wanting some exercise....
Read on!