About to tackle my first winter project which is to add brake cooling but had 2 questions:

1. It seems most backing plates are "optimized" for 3" hoses. What are your thoughts of running a 3" to 2.5" reducer/coupler on the backing plate so that I can use a 2.5" hose instead? I prefer 2.5" because it's less likely to kink or rip. My concern however is loss of pressure...

2. I see that you typically have the option for silicone (high-temp) vs neoprene (limited to 300*), the latter being half the price. Is high-temp really necessary?

I'd think for the coupler thats going to attach to the spindle duct, you'd want more temp handling because it will be so close to the rotors. For the hose beyond that coupler, whatever material should be fine.

If 2.5" hose fits and you don't rip it off every other weekend turning your wheels, then thats better. There's no sense in running bigger hose if it pisses you off and you end up taking it off all the time. Run what you can leave on 24/7/365.

Thanks, ideally I'd like to avoid paying up for any expensive backing plate and just stick on a 2.5" flange onto my existing oe plate. However, the plate on my car isn't flat throughout and any flat area is too far out, not close enough to the hub. I know it's easy to bend the material but have to first see nothing will get in the way. Else I may have no choice but to buy an expensive Turner/BW plate and use the coupler.

The hi-temp hoses are good up to 600*, the standard is 300*. The high temp couplers I've found (used for intakes, turbos, etc) are good for 500* so I think I'm ok on that front.

Thanks, ideally I'd like to avoid paying up for any expensive backing plate and just stick on a 2.5" flange onto my existing oe plate. However, the plate on my car isn't flat throughout and any flat area is too far out, not close enough to the hub. I know it's easy to bend the material but have to first see nothing will get in the way. Else I may have no choice but to buy an expensive Turner/BW plate and use the coupler.

The hi-temp hoses are good up to 600*, the standard is 300*. The high temp couplers I've found (used for intakes, turbos, etc) are good for 500* so I think I'm ok on that front.

I experimented with custom brake ducts just for fun and just sold mine as I am going to a dedicated track car. Lessons learned: use 2.25 inch, 3 inch will run on tires at full lock. I used a silicone coupler to attach neoprene dual coated ducts to the flange on backing plate to get beat of both worlds. Place flange close as possible to center I backing plate for more air. You can also bend the backing plate inward to get more air. Remove plastic shrouds around Intercooler that are useless and put the tubing there.

just short input: (small) reduction of pipe cross section area most likely will not affect the volume flow rate of air going in; it compensates by increasing the flow velocity at the smaller end. Since the pipes will always have bends, drag due to vends restrict more than the drag from reduction of diameter, hence I'd say tapering down to even 2" is no prob.

I experimented with custom brake ducts just for fun and just sold mine as I am going to a dedicated track car...

You sold your car?...Funny, I am going to a dedicated track car as well. But I decided to keep my car as a DD and just start over modding a dedicate track car. This car is just too heavy and too expensive to maintain compared to many cars that would do well on the track.

i actually have removed all the plastic around intercooler and still have the holes from brake ducts so still getting decent air to brakes.

i was getting lots of misfires and LP sensor errors recently, so want to fix this before heading to track. i cant wait for the F32 and maybe turn this beast into track queen. just get coilovers and a roll cage.

Mazdaspeed did some experimentation with brake ducts in the early 80s. They concluded 3 inch hose was min for brake cooling. Anything less in diameter simply did not pass enough air to be effective.

Adding cooling hoses does usually come with the headache of rubbing on full lock. The temps on hoses are not that important. The rubbing of the tire will wear your hose out first. The more expensive stuff will just last longer.

I highly recommend cooling hoses, one to the center of the brake disc (spend the money for the backing plate), and if you can one to the caliper. The caliper hose only if you are a hardcore track rat and are very hard on your brakes.

I buy my hoses in 30 ft lengths and change them once per year. This is for my race car. During the season I wrap ductape around the sections of the hose that get haggered to make them last for the season.