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I parts-washed my oil cooler and it is starting to scare me that I can't get all the fluid back out. I didn't spin a bearing or anything, but the cooler was pretty grimey. Is there any way to just not use it and run an aftermarket cooler instead?

Obviously the coolant lines can just be bypassed. Has anyone made a way to attach a thermostatic sandwich plate straight to the block?

EDIT: Found my answer. Part number 15018AA050. Oil feed pipe from a 2.5i.

Are you describing the sandwich adapters they make? They need to be bolted to the bottom of the factory cooler/warmer. I've already got one of those.

The bolt that holds the stock cooler on has male threads on both ends. The block is female threaded. You could just stick a sandwich adapter on the block, but you would need a custom threaded tube to hold it there.

You can get rid of it we do it all the time. Just go to the dealer and you can buy
part# 15018aa050. Its cost $5 and you just screw in the block and then screw the oil filter on. Then you just need to jump a hose from the water pump to the fitting in the block..

As you can see form the above pict, I dont have a factory oil cooler any more on my STI. The adapter is a thermostatic Mocal (200F) which works really well. I had to notch the oil pan just ever so slightly (just the edge of the lip) so that the adapter would fit correctly.

I'm thinking about doing this as well with my hybrid motor, since the stocker is probably full of metal... Only reason though would be cost/value because the oem is ~$200. Mine is going to be a DD so I dont think I necessarily need aftermarket.

It's more a heater than a cooler. Your oil will take longer to come up to temperature. It will also stabalize temperatures somewhat, but not nearly as much as a conventional oil cooler. If I lived in a cold climate I'd be hesitant to pull it off, but down south I wouldn't be concerned at all.

/\ So you deleted it completely and now have no oil cooler?
I live in AZ and I think oil temp is one of the reasons my rod bearing began to fail. So is it safe to run with no oil cooler at all?

Hell Ya! that thing is a joke! With my custom setup my oil temps usually run cooler than my water temps anyway.....this is not a daily driver....... I also run a remote oil filter so I have a qt extra oil in the loop and the 5 feet of 3/4" braided hose acts more like a cooler than the stock water loop one ever would. I have an oversized custom radiator and the water box that the turbo feeds from that holds nearly 10x the stock box h20.

But at the same time in my daily driver ( 97 OBX w/03 WRX swap )I got rid of the oil cooler too. I have had zero issues with oil temps and I dont burn or use up oil more than 1/4-1/2 qt every 3k miles

I got rid of the factory oil cooler on my car. I plugged the galleys in the block and also tapped fitting in the water pump and put a plug in it that way I didnt have to run that silly jumper coolant line.

You could do that or get an NA water pump, it has no fitting for the oil cooler.

I recently just purchased a mishimoto oil cooler with the sandwich plate adapter and lines etc. ive researched trying to find some instalation details but havent had any luck if anyone has used this oil cooler and succesfully installed it please post pics or some instructions lol mishimoto website has install guide for 350z and im thinking its prolly the same concept just wanna make sure. thanks

I got rid of the factory oil cooler on my car. I plugged the galleys in the block and also tapped fitting in the water pump and put a plug in it that way I didnt have to run that silly jumper coolant line.

You could do that or get an NA water pump, it has no fitting for the oil cooler.

Hell Ya! that thing is a joke! With my custom setup my oil temps usually run cooler than my water temps anyway.....this is not a daily driver....... I also run a remote oil filter so I have a qt extra oil in the loop and the 5 feet of 3/4" braided hose acts more like a cooler than the stock water loop one ever would. I have an oversized custom radiator and the water box that the turbo feeds from that holds nearly 10x the stock box h20.

But at the same time in my daily driver ( 97 OBX w/03 WRX swap )I got rid of the oil cooler too. I have had zero issues with oil temps and I dont burn or use up oil more than 1/4-1/2 qt every 3k miles

Last time I replaced my bottom end, I left the oil warmer off too and got a nipple that lets me install the filter directly to the block like an NA car. I was told that it would net me 5 more PSI in oil pressure however, I can't substantiate this claim as I have no oil pressure gauge. I can say that the engine hasn't eaten any rod bearings since I did it.

Last time I replaced my bottom end, I left the oil warmer off too and got a nipple that lets me install the filter directly to the block like an NA car. I was told that it would net me 5 more PSI in oil pressure however, I can't substantiate this claim as I have no oil pressure gauge. I can say that the engine hasn't eaten any rod bearings since I did it.

Same here, oil pressure is solid, oil temperature is solid. Oil warmup doesn't seem to take any longer than it did with the factory warmer/cooler. Overall I'm happy with my decision.

It's more a heater than a cooler. Your oil will take longer to come up to temperature. It will also stabalize temperatures somewhat, but not nearly as much as a conventional oil cooler. If I lived in a cold climate I'd be hesitant to pull it off, but down south I wouldn't be concerned at all.

Well when Subaru switched to the GR chassis, I believe that only the STi came with a "oil cooler" and the WRX did NOT.