Kreg Rip Cut

I was fortunate enough to receive a Kreg Rip Cut last spring as they were first shipping but didn't begin using it until this fall. Initially I attempted to attach the Rip Cut to my Worm Drive Mag framing saw. The base of that saw has a lip that is great for pushing dust out of the way but makes it difficult to attach the Rip Cut, so I got out my back up saw- an older sidewinder Skill with a flat base and attached it to the Rip Cut. The attachment was firm and stable and did not shift or flex under pressure. I have to say that at first I was concerned that the plastic base and guide would be too flexible and leave me with inaccurate cuts, but I have found that I am able to rip and crosscut sheet goods with this simple jig with the same accuracy as my table saw with a 52” Biesemeyer fence attached. There is one part of the cut that needs extra attention and that is the last 3-4 inches as the guide leaves the material and there is less and less guide bar for the saw to reference. But with a little attention as you exit the stock, you will be able to keep clean, straight cuts. For years I had considered building a panel saw but don’t want to commit the space in the shop. I think I have found the next best thing in the Kreg Rip Cut and for less than $40 you can’t complain about the price either. Thanks Kreg, another product that we can afford and use!

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As an electrician I mount 3/4 on walls a lot which of course I have to rip to size with my circular saw. I used to use a T-bar and a clamp but with this jig I can do it in have the time. I made marks on mine for common sizes I use and it's a breeze! Awesome product and love it!

Mine works fairly well; though there's one aspect that doesn't thrill me. It'd be nice if the means by which it was attached was faster, not requiring a hex key and screws. Unless you want to dedicate a circular saw just to the jig, you're probably going to flipflop from using it and not using it. And then there's storage. So just taking it on and off could be easier with some kind of clamp system instead of the screws. Though it does seem to work for initial rough cuts on full sheets. So it does do its job.

I bought the Rip Cut about a month or so ago and used it once in the week after I bought it. That was probably not a sufficient test to offer an informed opinion. However, this past Friday and again last night I used it extensively. It worked! That's probably the easiest way to say it. I agree with the comments about the end of the cut being harder to manage, however, since I had read this forum and knew that to be an issue, I was careful to keep the guide flush against the edge of the board until the blade exited the board. It worked fine for me. If I'm making repetitive cuts (up to 24") or ripping an 8' sheet good, the Rip Cut works great. If I'm making just a few cuts of varying widths, I might just grab my Emerson All-In-One clamps (http://www.amazon.com/E-Emerson-Tool-ZCPK3-All-In-One/dp/B0030A3LQC...), especially since I only have one circular saw and the Rip Cut does take a bit of set up when it's not already attached to my saw. Overall, I find the Rip Cut to be worth the $35 I paid for it.

Just received the Rip Cut and used it to cut a large, 3' x 8' panel of 5/4 rough-sawn heart pine down to 2'6" x 6'. As two others mentioned, the calibration wiggled a bit, so I stopped the cut, put some Locktite on the screws when I recalibrated, then reset for 2'5 7/8" and redid the rip cut. With the Locktite, the calibration stayed right where it should despite the thick, rough-cut stock. Love it.

I've used my rip cut three times so far. It takes a bit to get used to. I'm a beginner carpenter so I will own that I need more experience. But it allowed me to cut accurate rips in some wood paneling. Like the other guy, my 0 calibration had moved during the cut. Luckily it didn't ruin my wood. I re-tightened the cam screws and it seemed to hold at zero. It can be problematic to use on light pieces as the wood can moved if not secured.

I just used my rip cut and was disappointed. The end of my cut was crooked because the guide doesn't ride on the edge at the end of the board. I calibrated (Zero) the blade and after each cut it had moved off the zero. I think I will purchase a edge guide with clamps attached . I wish I could return the rip cut but I threw out the package.