FRi NIGHT VID: Stamina Training Tips - James Pearson

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2013This news story has been read 11,827 times

This Friday we have the first of two videos from Wild Country in which James Pearson shares his secrets for training stamina. If you don't want to get pumped at the first clip - follow James' advice!

I was interested to watch this video as I remember that a few years ago James was primarily a boulderer and hard grit headpointer, and he said himself that stamina and endurance were his biggest weaknesses. This isn't the case these days as James is now a fully blown Euro-Stamina-Monster, and regularly climbs sport routes in the high 8s. And he's still tradding of course (check out the recent UKC News). So I wanted to know his secrets!

In this two part series Wild Country athlete James Pearson delves into training for rock climbing and gives us his take on training for stamina climbs. In the videos he looks at pure endurance routes as well as power endurance routes and gives some simple, basic, techniques for training both of these.

In part one he looks at Endurance training for routes of more than 30 moves and discusses some training techniques you can use at nearly any wall. As well as this he takes in some mental and strategic pointers to help you on your way.
James Pearson has put these techniques to good use in his transition from a boulderer and short route specialist to someone who has repointed long 9a routes and plenty of other long sustained climbs too.