The market value of comic books is partly determined by a grading process. This grading process details the exact condition and completeness of a comic, allowing the seller to get an idea of how much it is worth. While there is a certain amount of subjectivity to this process, a reasonably accurate grade can be assigned by a careful amateur.

Steps

Method1

Examining the Cover and Spine

1

Look for cover damage. When grading a comic book, the first thing you'll see is the cover. Take a close look, ideally with a magnifying glass, and make careful notes of any apparent damage, including:[1]

Bends, folds, or dents that warp the shape or surface of the book, but don't affect the color

Coackling, a bubbling effect on the cover usually caused by printing defects

Creases, more severe folds that remove ink or otherwise create distortions in the coloring

Tears

Moisture, water damage, or "foxing" (bacterial or fungal growth on the paper)

Fading, lack of gloss, or "dust shadow" (partial exposure to dust or air resulting in uneven fading)

Fingerprints, especially those which in which skin oils have led to discoloration of the ink

Chew (rodent damage)

Writing or other soiling of the cover.

2

Make note of attempts to repair the book. Look for evidence of tape or glue or other attempts to repair the book. These generally have a negative effect on the value.[2]

Note that more sophisticated efforts to restore a comic book, such as color restoration or re-glossing are often undetectable by amateur graders (and sometimes even professionals), but can also have a negative effect on value if noticed by a potential buyer. Such restorations should be noted upfront before attempting to sell a comic book.[3]

3

Examine the spine. Less obvious but equally important to the surface of the cover is the spine of the comic book. Inspect it closely, making note of any of the following:[4]

Spine roll, a curvature of the left edge of a comic toward the front or back, caused by folding back each page of the comic as it was read

Spine break, spine stress that has become a full tear (usually through multiple pages), typically found near the staples

Spine split, a clean, even separation at the fold, usually (but not always) right above or below a staple

4

Inspect the staples. The staples themselves must also be inspected closely. Make sure no staples are missing at that the staples are in good condition.[5]

Look for signs of rust on the staples, as well as "popped" staples. A popped staple occurs when one side of a cover has torn right next to the staple, but remains attached by the paper beneath the staple. This condition can easily lead to detached staples.

Method2

Assessing Page Quality

1

Count the pages. Once you've had chance to thoroughly examine the cover, carefully open the book to examine the pages. For very collectible books, the use of tweezers is recommended to minimize contact with harmful skin oils. Your first step is to count the pages.

Make sure there are no missing pages in the comic book. Missing pages severely impact a comic's value.[6]

2

Note any loose pages. With older comics, it is common for the center-fold pages (and sometimes other page as well) to become detached from the staples.[7]

Make note of how many pages (or "wraps") are detached, either fully or partially.

3

Look for damage to the pages. In addition to damage caused by readers, paper stored improperly can easily degrade. There are several common problems with the pages you should watch out for and make note of:[8][9]

Tears, creases, or cuts (such as clipped coupons)

Tape, glue, or other attempts to repair pages

Writing or other soil to the pages

Water damage, often leading to a stiffness or rippling of the paper

Staple migration, a condition that occurs when the rust from staples stains the paper around it

4

Assess paper integrity. Today's comics are printed on a higher-quality paper that withstands aging reasonably well. With older comics, this is not the case--the quality of the paper is likely to have degraded some from age.[10][11]

Look for discoloration or brittleness. Especially in comics from the 1980s and earlier, the paper can become yellow or tan as it oxidizes, and loses some of it's structural integrity.

A certain amount of discoloration is expected and acceptable in very old comics, but the less the better.

Method3

Assigning a Grade

1

Consider a "Mint" grade. Comics are graded using both descriptive categories and a 0-10 rating system. If your comic is in flawless or nearly flawless condition, it might merit a grade of "mint" or "near mint." This condition applies to perfectly flat comics with supple paper, a glossy cover, and no obvious wear.[12][13]

"Mint" grades include "Perfect/Gem Mint" (10.0) and "Mint" (9.9). These describe comics that have no detectable imperfections. A 10.0 book is absolutely perfect in every way. Very few comics meet this criteria, even those still sitting on the shelves in a comic store.[14]

"Near Mint+/Mint" grades include "Near Mint/Mint" (9.8) and "Near Mint+" (9.6). These grades describe comics that have only the slightest wear. A small number of stress lines and very slight discoloration are acceptable defects. Most people would consider these to be perfect, but the trained eye may notice tiny imperfections.

"Near Mint" (9.4) and "Near Mint-" (9.2) describe comics that have minimal stress lines and discoloration. The spine and cover are flat. The cover may have a small amount of surface wear, but the colors are still bright. A 9.4 Near Mint book is the standard condition of a new book sold at a comic store as is considered "new" condition. A 9.2 indicates only the very minor wear, typically a minimal stress mark on the spine (non-color breaking) or other similar marks.

2

Assess whether it might deserve a "Fine" grade. A comic which is well preserved but not "mint" is typically described as "Fine" or "Very Fine." These are comics that have been read and enjoyed, but with care. They may have some discoloration, but pages should still be supple and the cover should still be glossy and attractive.[15]

"Very Fine/Near Mint" (9.0), "Very Fine+" (8.5), "Very Fine" (8.0), and "Very Fine-" (7.5) are grades that allow for some wear, as they have typically been read a few times. A few stress lines are acceptable. While the cover can have some wear, it should still retain its original glossiness.

"Fine" grades include "Fine/Very Fine" (7.0), "Fine+" (6.5), "Fine" (6.0), and "Fine-" (5.5). These grades describe comics with a fair amount of stress lines and creases. A low number of small tears and missing pieces, usually 1/8 to 1/4 inch (about 3.1 to 6.3 mm) in length is also acceptable at this grade level.

3

Determine whether it might merit a "Good" grade. Below "Fine" is the grade of "Good." This is somewhat deceptive, as a grade of "good" is actually not particularly good, but more like average. These are comics that have been well-loved by a reader. Still, books in this condition must be intact and readable.[16]

"Very Good" grades include "Very Good/Fine" (5.0), "Very Good+" (4.5), "Very Good" (4.0), and "Very Good-" (3.5). These grades describe a comic that has all of its pages but is noticeably creased, rolled, and scuffed. Missing pieces on the cover can be as large as 1/4 to 1/2 inch (about 6.3 to 12.5 mm).

"Good" grades include "Good/Very Good" (3.0), "Good+" (2.5), "Good" (2.0), and "Good-" (1.8). These grades describe comics that are in somewhat worse condition than the "Very Good" grades. The cover may have some missing pieces and the book is generally scuffed, abraded, and faded. Moderate spine split is permissible. The comic still has all of its pages, however.

4

Consider a "Fair" grade. A "Fair" condition comic is ragged and unattractive. It may have pieces of pages missing that make the story more difficult to follow (e.g. clipped coupons that cut into panels on the reverse side of the page).[17]

"Fair" grades include "Fair/Good" (1.5) and "Fair" (1.0). These grades describe comics that are worn and in general disarray. Despite their condition, they still retain all of the pages and most of the covers. These comics may be torn, stained, faded, and brittle.

5

Give a "Poor" or "Incomplete" grade if necessary. "Poor" comics are what the name suggests--heavily damaged. They may be defaced, torn, stained, or have missing chunks.[18] "Incomplete" comics are those missing covers or pages.[19]

"Poor" (0.5) describes comic books that are missing pages and up to 1/3 of the cover. The comic may be brittle and defaced by other materials such as paint and glue.

Some people will not grade a comic missing it's cover, but some give "Incomplete" comics a score between 0.1 and 0.3.

6

Look into professional grading. If you have a comic that is extremely rare, you may wish to consider having it graded professionally. This allows you to speak confidently about it's condition in any setting, such as negotiations about pricing.

If you plan to have a comic professionally sealed (or "slabbed"), a professional grading is recommended, since any potential buyers will not be able to open the comic and assess it for themselves.[20]

Professional graders included the Certified Guarantee Company (CGC) and Professional Grading Experts (PGX).

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Tips

Another item to consider is the comic being autographed. If the signature can be authenticated, it will typically add to the value of the book. Without a way to authenticate it, many collectors consider the book to be defaced and the writing lowers the grade and value of the book significantly.

Practicing grading with books of various conditions will help you to better see the nuances between, for example, "Fine" and "Very Fine." The more you grade, the more effective a grader you will become.

In addition to the physical condition of a comic, value is determined by its rarity and marketability. Comics that feature a notable artist, popular characters and story lines, or had a limited print run may be worth more to buyers. For example, Action Comics #1 is valuable because it is the first comic to feature Superman and because it is rare to find an original issue.

Try not to be overly optimistic or allow wishful thinking to affect your assessment of a comic's condition. Every collector would love to think their prized books are in mint condition, and this desire can sometimes skew one's perceptions of a book's actual condition.[21]

"Your instructional was very helpful. My collection of almost 500 comics from the early sixties and onward is much easier to grade. I have so many 12 cent comics that I always wondered how to grade, but this helps. I am glad I took care of the comics years ago, because it gives me great hope in selling them now."..." more

JY

Jay Yanko

Aug 16, 2016

"The grading system was thorough enough without being too lengthy. It gave a quick "meat & potatoes" guide that can be quite useful."..." more

A

Anonymous

Jan 9

"I just did not know how to grade a comic book. After reading this, I now understand what needed to be checked."