Wednesday, October 31, 2007

MEXICO "MI CORAZON": ACTING THE GOAT IN GUADALAJARA

So, I am, those of you who read both blogs will be glad to know, finally catching up with my journey over on EAT MY GLOBE.

But, I still thought it would be interesting for some of you to see what I have been up to here in Mexico.

It is my first visit to this extraordinary country and, with the help of my friends, Cristina and Judy, I have been exploring a lot of the local markets and food stands.

Particular favourites have been my morning excursions for Tacos De Tripa which are as the name suggests, tacos with tripe. The tripe is deep fried and served on fresh small, double layered tortilla which you then top with onions, coriander leaf and fresh salsa before squeezing lime juice all over them. Incredibly addictive and I have eaten about ten in two days (which cost about £2 in total)

Equally good were the fish and shrimp tacos I tried for lunch on Monday on to which I poured rather too much japaleno relish and am still being reminded of the fact by my disappointed stomach. It was worth every arse blistering second for the taste, however as the soft tortilla gives way to the crunch of the battered fish and the fresh fire of the salsa.

Oh, and there are large plates of chicherones everywhere. That is seldom a bad thing.

Best meal of the trip so far was lunch yesterday at El Chololo. Around for nearly eighty five years, it is known for serving the best Birria in the state of Jalisco. At weekends, the lines of cars head miles down the street which is quite something considering they can sit a thousand people at any one time. The place is filled with mariachi bands serenading locals with songs that inevitably involve “Mi Corazon”

Birria involves goat (lots of them in this case as they get through seven hundred a week) which is braised in a broth with chilli, lime and some other spices. It is then pulled apart and glazed with a reduced version of the broth before being shoved under a grill to get crispy on top.

It comes served with a bowl of the original cooking liquor which is spiked with lime, chilli and salt, fresh tortilla, refrioles (refried beans) and some more punchy salsa.

I have had versions of this before in London, but nothing close to this in texture or taste. It is surprisingly subtle and the combination of flavours and textures is as addictive as the tacos with the crunch of the outside of the goat giving way to the soft flesh.

We just had to have a song to see us on our way and Cristina treated me to a rendition of a song which as well as “Mi Corazon” of course, demanded that I “come back, come back, come back” I can only hope I will

It is pretty early here now, I am heading out to eat some more of those tripe tacos. I am pretty sure they will be coming back at some point too.

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