Hyderabad sparkles

City’s wealth can be seen in its remarkable architecture

Golkonda fort, Hyderabad. Fotolia

HYDERBAD, India

Hyderabad’s incredible saga rests upon a mass of diamonds. Though none were ever found here, the city was created by the rulers of nearby Golconda, who had became fabulously wealthy from the diamond mines they controlled. For centuries, Golconda was the world’s only known source of diamonds. And over the years, legendary gems, including the Hope and Kohinoor diamonds, were found here.

By 1591, when overcrowding within the fort spurred the need for a new city location, Golconda’s King Muhammad Quli Qutb Shahi decided to build not just a new place to live, but also a city that replicated heaven on earth.

Today, heaven isn’t what immediately comes to mind when first encountering Hyderabad. Raucous selling and incredibly dense traffic abounds, particularly where the city began.

Now India’s sixth largest metropolis, trade still powers Hyderabad. However, today’s real money-makers are cyber firms in the outlying HITEC (for Hyderabad Information Technology & Engineering Consultancy) district. This sector vigorously competes with Bangalore and Chennai for the honour of being of India’s leading IT centre.

For travellers however, it’s the Charminar — once the entrance to the rulers’ then-new palace complex and still the heart of the old city — that’s the No. 1 attraction. Standing 56 metres high with four mighty arches, it took 21 years to complete. You can climb 149 steps to two levels near the top for even better “Old City” views.

Explore the luxurious nearby Chowmahalla Palace, which became the site of religious and social gatherings of the city’s Nizams, or rulers. Amid courtyards and an impressive pool, the most striking structure is Durbar Hall. There, 19 Belgian chandeliers hang above a marble platform upon which the royal seat was placed. Also intriguing is a display of automobiles, including a 1912 Rolls-Royce, plus magnificent textiles, clothing, crockery, and arms. Today, Chowmahalla is used for musical performances, as well as weddings designed to impress.

Another must is the Mecca Masjid, close to the Charminar. Everyone can stroll through the massive courtyard that can hold 10,000, but only men can enter the inner prayer area.

Downtown Hyderabad, like almost all urban India, is a riot of colour and sound. On streets and alleys radiating from the Charmimar, merchants sell everything from clothing and accessories, to jewelry, household items, shoes, and an array of foods and vegetables.

Almost everything is grouped by product type. For instance, there are separate streets where everyone sells bangles, while nearby is an area where merchants just sell saris. Other prime draws are stores selling pearls of all shapes, sizes and values. When all this makes you seek a timeout, head for the Nimrah Café and Bakery near the Charminar. There you’ll be fortified by tea with milk plus an enticing mix of Indian sweets.

Seven Nizams (the title roughly means administrator of the realm) ruled Hyderabad between 1724 and 1948, the year the last ruler was deposed.

Following the 1947 partition in which Great Britain’s former India colony was divided between India and the new state of Pakistan, the Nizam wanted the state of Hyderabad — then approximately the size of France — to remain independent. Since the new India government was not going to allow such a huge state to exist in its midst, a four-days-long invasion causing hundreds of casualties led to the deposing of the monarch, and Hyderabad’s incorporation into the new state of India.

Though the Nizam lost power, he didn’t lose the wealth that made him either the wealthiest, or one of the wealthiest men on Earth at that time. To appreciate his fortune, a sampling of his possessions can be seen at the surprisingly compact Nizams Museum. Here, you’ll see some of the gifts he received at the 1936 Silver Jubilee celebration marking the 25th year of his reign.

You’ll also want to explore the massive and fascinating Salar Jung museum. Widely regarded as one of the world’s greatest antique collections, it’s full of items collected by Hyderabad’s prime minister from 1899-1949, Highlights found in three dozen halls include the sword and daggers of Aurangzeb, the 17th century conqueror of Golconda, the turban of legendary Indian ruler Tipu Sultan, a priceless collection of silver and gold Qur’ans, a massive grouping of clocks and sundials, fabulous silks and weavings, woodcut paintings, porcelain, manuscripts, ceramics, carvings carpets, furniture and sculptures.

There’s also plenty to see outside of Hyderabad, such as the seven Qutb Shahi Tombs. They house the remains of Golconda kings who ruled from 1516 until the dynasty’s overthrow in 1687.

Built on a raised platform with balustrades and beautiful minarets, they are surrounded by gardens. Among the most eye-catching is the multi-arch tomb of Sultan Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah. His edifice rises 42 metres and is topped by a huge dome

You should also check out the 18th- and 19th-century Paigah tombs, where members of a noble family are interred. Elegant and imposing, they feature extraordinary stucco design and intricate and delicate screens.

Less than a kilometre away is the still-impressive ruins of Golconda fort. Originally built of mud in the 12th century, it evolved into a mighty citadel, which boasted over five kilometres of double walls, and eight formidable entrance gates.

Fort highlights include the armoury, great cannons, the Durbar Hall (main meeting space) high enough the main level, and also the astounding acoustics. Somehow the builders at one of the main entrances made it possible for sounds to radiate astounding distances.

The fort fell in 1687. It’s believed internal treachery allowed Aurangzeb and his Mughal army — which had waged a nine-month siege — to enter and conquer it, virtually without a fight.

If you go

Hyatt Hotel: Excellent luxury property, well located for city and regional touring. www.hyatt.com

Greaves Tours: Greaves provided knowledgeable guides and drivers for explorations within and outside of Hyderabad.

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