blogging about the joyful things in life

When visiting Montenegro, our plan had been just to rely on public transport. However after the bus from Dubrovnik to Kotor took so long, we missed our transfer bus up the North of Montenegro. As a result, we frantically did a Google search to find a car hire company who would let us rent a car at just an hours notice, and luckily for us one did.

After arriving at Kotor bus station we were pretty hot and fed up after a supposed 1 hour 50 minute bus journey from Dubrovnik to Kotor turned out to be over 7 hours… Thankfully for us, M Cars met us at the bus stations with a Citroen, and we headed straight off to Zabljak. We quickly discovered that Montengro has stunning scenery, which led to plenty of stops along the way for photos. We arrived in Zabljak after dark and after a warm welcome from our Airbnb host with a plate of homemade cakes, we headed out to find some dinner. Zabljak’s restaurants and bars are full of people in hiking gear which reflects the outdoor pursuits area that it is, with skiing being on the cards in the winter months. Even though we visited in July, a coat was needed, as after an increase in altitude, a big temperature drop ensued. In Kotor just three hours earlier it was over 30 degrees, and in Zabljak it was struggling to get over 10 degrees. One obvious difference (besides the temperature) from Dubrovnik, was the price of the food. Dubrovnik’s restaurants commanded high prices, and in contrast Zabljak’s restaurants were extremely cheap, with the portions enormous. Being away from the coast, fish was off the menu , and was replaced with much heartier meat and potato dishes.

Durmitor National Park

The following morning we headed off the Durmitor National Park. The scenery was breath taking, however little time was spent admiring it as narrow hair pin bends had be navigated, at serious heights with no barriers. If you’re after an adrenaline pumping drive, you can’t beat this one. We were heading to the other side of the park to go horse riding which had bene arranged prior to our departure from England. Upon arrival it was clear that this particular horse ride would not be meeting any safety requirements that we were used to. We had to request helmets as they were not given, and after a hunt around, our guide came up with some rafting helmets. Off we trotted! We trekked up a mountain which offered stunning panoramic views, and then it all went downhill from there. Literally. Our guide spoke little/no English, and he decided that rather than a having a gentle walk back down the mountain, that we would gallop instead. All of a sudden, his horse took off, as did ours and before you know it we were hurtling down the rocky mountain side, feet floppin gout of the stirrups and gripping on with wvery muscle we had. Perhaps not the best way to introduce us to the world of galloping!

Emily getting to grips with her pony

After this near death experience, we headed back to Zabljak for a more sedentary afternoon. We grabbed our rucksacks and headed off to the Durmitor National Park lakes.

This is a great way to spend the afternoon and there are a number of trails around the Black Lake so you can take your pick depending on the time you have to spare. Photos don’t capture the beauty of the lake, it is so turquoise that it doesn’t look real. If you’re in Zabljak be sure not to miss out on a visit here.

Black Lake

The next morning we were up early and off to Tara Canyon for a morning of rafting. Again, this was a beautiful drive, and all along the way were stalls selling homemade honey and mead. Organic and seasonal produce has a huge emphasis in Montenegro and is something you will quickly notice.

The canyon really is a spectacular sight, and compared to the horse riding, the rafting was sedentary! If you’re looking for a way to experience the canyon, this is certainly the way. Our rafting experience was only a few hours, however you can do much longer excursions , up to two days, where you camp along the river. For any thrill seekers, there is the option to zip line across the canyon, and is something you can onto the end of your rafting trip. Equally, if this is not for you, you can stand and admire the canyon from above on Tara bridge.

After rafting we headed back to the guesthouse, packed up the car and headed off to Kotor. On arrival in Kotor (after a few navigation issues..), we checked into our Airbnb in the town centre and went ot to explore. The most captivating thing about Kotor is that there seems to be music playing in every corner of the town. Walking around at night, it creates a magical atmosphere that I have never experienced in any town or city before. The next thing you will take note of, are the cats. Lots of them,,, The cats in Kotor seem to be pampered and worshipped, with even a cat museum dedicated to them (1 euro entry if you’re interested) , and every gift shop selling cat memorabilia.

The next morning we hired a car again from M Cars and drove to Lake Skadar. Once there we took a tour with family run business, ‘Golden Frog Tour’s I cannot recommend them highly enough and they even bought along some Montenegrin treats for us to try, the perfect snack after a dip in the lake.

We took the scenic route home to Kotor by taking a detour along the way to Pavlova Strata. If you can stomach the twisting road up the side of the hilltop, this is certainly worth it, as you are rewarded with incredible views back over the lake and the island.

Pavlova Strata

The next day, before leaving we got up early before sunrise to make the trip up to the fort that overlook Kotor. It is 3 euros entry, but is an absolute must if you are staying in Kotor as it offers views over the town, bay and beyond Ensure you take sun cream and plenty of water as it is by no means a gentle stroll!

View over Kotor from the fort

Recommendations for dinner:

Ø Galion Restaurant (overlooks the port)

Ø Old Winery (had the best squid ink risotto here!)

Overall, combined with Dubrovnik, this was a outstanding trip with incredible company, and I can honestly say, I cannot wait to go back. The rustic charm of Montenegro is something I will not forget (along of course with the fantastic food). And missing the bus at the start of our trip? Well, it was a blessing in disguise.

M Cars sorted us out with Camilla the Citroen

If you’re looking to hire a car whilst you’re there, I can definitely recommend M Cars. Speak to Sladjana, literally the loveliest person, who will ensure you’re sorted for your trip!

Dubrovnik is a world heritage site that sits on the Adriatic coastline, and although breathtakingly beautiful, there are reminders that remain throughout the city that tell of its tragic past.

Although it is a small city, there is plenty to do and explore within and surrounding its old city walls. Perhaps the most popular tourist attraction is to take a walk along these city walls that so clearly enclose the old town. In the past the drawbridges to the city would have been raised at night to deter any unwanted visitors from entering. The walk around the walls is something that should be on your list of things to do when visiting Dubrovnik as the birds eye viewed gained from doing so is a great way to understand the layout of the city beneath as well as marvel at the surrounding coastline views.

One of the many views from the Old City wall

Other Old City attractions worth visiting are the Franciscan Monastery and Rector’s Palace. The monastery entrance is besides the entrance to the Old City Walls entrance. The monastery is perfect for respite from the summer heat of Dubrovnik, and inside you will find a hidden courtyard garden, only visible to others from the city walls above. The monastery is filled with artefacts, as well as information about the bombings that took place on the Old City, with a hole in the wall showing the damage inflicted.

The Palace is situated at the far end of the Stradun. It was built in the late 15th century and was for the elected rector who governed Dubrovnik. Inside is the rectors office, private chambers, public halls, administrative halls and even a dungeon which you are able to go inside. During the one month term they served, the rector was unable to leave the palace unless permission was granted from the senate.

Today the palace has been restored, with many of the rooms decorated in period style. As well as this, it serves as a museum that catalogues Dubrovnik’s past.

If you have a little more time on your hands, and particularly if you are a Game of Thrones fan, a visit to Fort Lovrjenac is an absolute must. A large proportion of the series was filmed at this fort, and even if you are not a fan, like myself, you can certainly appreciate why it was chosen as a set. To get to the fort you need to head out of the city gates, over the drawbridge, and up the hill past the taxi ranks. Keep waking until you see the signs. The views from the fort are spectacular, and take in the city of Dubrovnik as well as the coastline.

From the right of the fort we spotted a gorgeous cove with unbelievably clear waters, and decided this would be the perfect place for a cool off swim! To reach this, you need to take the left steps down when leaving the fort, and at the bottom turn left again. Follow this street for a minute or so until you find the secluded cove.

Views from Fort Lovrjenac

If you are planning to visit even only three attractions in Dubrovnik, it is worthwhile purchasing the Dubrovnik Card. We purchased a 3 Day Dubrovnik Card which cost 250 Kuna. which covered the cost of entry to all the sights and attractions, as well as a very handy information book. The cards can be purchased from the information centre below the clock tower.

A highlight of my short visit, had to be the trip to Lokrum. This is a small island located just off the shores of Dubrovnik. A return ticket by ferry costs 240 Kuna. It is a stunning island, left to nature, in that there are no cars on the island or inhabitants. It is home to olive groves, ruins, gardens, and a large number of peacocks! I recommend a tranquil lunch at Rajski Vrt, which is just a short walk from the pier, and is located in front of the ruins. To walk off lunch you can have a look around the ruins as well as explore the botanical garden. Make sure you bring your swimming gear as when the post lunch slump hits, there are ample trees to take a siesta under, or alternatively, head back to the rocks near the pier, where you can take a dip in the gloriously clear and warm waters, all the while watching the hustle of boats and peacocks.

For dinners, it is easy to get caught in a tourist trap so be cautious. I can recommend dinner at Villa Ruza, which you will need to book in advance in the busier summer months. Here we had a very fresh and delicious salt baked sea bass. I recommend!

If price is not an issue, it is worth booking dinner at Proto. This is a fish restaurant just off the Stradun and is a family run restaurant that has been around since 1886 and serves the finest seafood. A tip is to ask for a table on the hidden roof terrace.

If you are visiting in the summer months, there is simply no place better to be than enjoying a post dinner drink or two at one of the many bars along the Stradan. The yellow lighting reflects off the marble street and often music is being played whilst swallows race each other up and down the Stradun and over the clock tower. Quite simply, pure bliss.

Naples is a city in Southern Italy, sitting in the eye line of the imposing still-active volcano, Mount Vesuvius.
I spent 4 days in Naples, and if I’m being totally honest, I would not return for this length of time again. For a stopover on the way to the Amalfi Coast, its perfect and two days here would be enough to do it justice.
There are a few reasons why I would not return in any hurry. Firstly, I found the city to be very dirty. The Italian economy is under a lot of strain and this is certainly evident in Naples. The streets and pavements were very unclean, not helped either by many also being in disrepair. As well as this, there is a great deal of pollution in Naples. There appears to be far too many cars for the city to cope with, resulting in a lot of traffic jams and fumes, which, after a day in the city, leaves you with a headache. I found there was just a lack of green space to escape from it all.
Finally, there is A LOT of construction. Everywhere. The city of Naples is currently installing a new metro system but when digging down, they keep stumbling onto new archaeological finds. This means walkways are often hard to navigate as they are covered in boarding.
However, it does have charm, particularly on the waterfront, and I would recommend stopping by if you’re in the area, even if its just for a night. I have rounded up the highlights of my trip for you so you can pick and choose the best bits.

There are of course the classic ‘must-visits’ in any city. The palace in the Piazza del Plebiscito is one of these. Inside, you will find beautiful ceilings and paintings, and even a theatre. The theatre is quite a statement as the Teatro di San Carlo is just a few metres from the palace, and yet the royals felt they needed one of their very own.

The monastery is definitely worth a visit if you have a bit more time on your hands. To get there I would recommend taking the funicular from Toledo. Well, you can if it’s working, unlike when I was there when it was under repair. No surprise there… If it is still broken, you can catch the metro from Toledo to Piazza Montesanto where you can then pick up a funicular to the top.
The monastery has a stunning chapel as well as the most incredible nativity scene on show. They also have the old royal boats on display, another quite astonishing exhibit.

If you haven’t got time to visit the archaeological sites of Pompeii or Herculaneum then a visit to the Museo Nazionale is a must. Here you will find the excavated pieces from the sites which will take you back in time to to that fateful day when the cities were buried under the ash from the Mount Vesuvius eruption. The ash preserved everything as they were, including perishable items such as bread. A history trip worth pursuing.

If you have a day to venture outside the city but don’t have access to a car, then I can recommend the Tramvia. There are numerous Tramvia stops across the city and you can buy your tickets at any newspaper stands advertising the trip. Having done Pompeii on a previous visit to the Amalfi Coast, we opted for a trip to Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. This cost just €20 a person for a bus from Naples to Herculaneum and then from there to Vesuvius and then back to Naples. At each pickup they were bang on time. We opted for this trip as we were not tied to a tour, it was simply just the transport to the sites.

Herculaneum was a fascinating site. It’s much smaller than Pompeii, but this made it much less daunting and meant that you could wander the whole site in a couple of hours unlike Pompeii, which, if you’re short on time, are left just picking a few bits out to visit. Herculaneum is better preserved than Pompeii, with many roofs still standing. There are also many stunning frescoes on the walls in the houses reflecting the wealth of the inhabitants.

After Herculaneum we made our way to Mount Vesuvius. The drive up the mountain was beautiful and you could see out over the whole bay of Naples. The bus drops you at the closest car park to the top of the volcano, where from there you commence up the final part by foot. I recommend wearing a good pair off trainers for this last part. The walk takes about half an hour, up a rocky path. However, it is totally worth it for the view you get from the top and to peer into the volcano which has smoke coming out from it due the build up of sulphurous gases inside. It is an amazing experience and was my highlight of the trip.

Of course no blog post would be complete without a recommendation of food! For a cool snack when you’re out and about exploring the city, I can recommend Venchi who do delicious ice creams and sorbet, or Gay Odin. This is a family run chocolate business, and have a couple of small shops in the city. They serve up the most fantastic chocolate ice-cream and I would highly recommend them.

For food, the best place to head at night is the Via Partenope. This is along the waterfront and is where you will find a whole host of restaurants. If you’re looking for a gluten free meal as I do, ‘Fresco’ does a scrumptious gluten free pizza, so good I couldn’t tell the difference. It certainly wasn’t the usual cardboard affair I’m used to.

For lunch I would recommend Gran Gusto on Via Nuovo Marina. This is perfect if you’re near the University or have come in from the port as it just a short walk away from both. Gran Gusto is a food shop similar to WholeFoods, however it has a restaurant upstairs serving up some fabulous foods, and the locals seem to opt for the pizzas. Make sure to give it a visit if you’re in the area.

Gran Gusto

The best restaurant we found was on the Borgo Marinari. This is a tiny island connected by a cobbled path from the Via Partenope that has an old castle on. Here you can find a smattering of restaurants around a square that feels like a movie set it is so quaint. The restaurant we ate at twice in a row as it was so good, was the Hotel Transatlantico. You can have dinner outside overlooking the marina and they serve up fresh fish. Here I had my favourite meal which was clam spaghetti (gluten free), and I’m still dreaming about it….

Borgo Marinari

All in all, although Naples has its flaws, it is still worth a visit and I hope this post has given you a small insight into the worthy parts to visit.

1. Put the oats, frozen raspberries, and almond milk into a saucepan on a low heat. Stir slowly
2. Once the milk has been absorbed, remove from the heat. (Keep on the heat and add a little water if its not quite ready)
3. Pour into a bowl and top with berries and seeds
4. Enjoy!

Sticks’n’Sushi is a small chain of restaurants, with four in London, and one in Cambridge, serving sushi and yakitori sticks. What’s not to love? I have visited the Covent Garden restaurant on numerous occasions, and from the moment you walk in, to the last bite of dessert, this restaurant ticks all the boxes.

Upon sitting, I can highly recommend one of their delicious cocktails, or for a non-alcoholic option, the rhubarb fizz from Denmark. Food choices are obvious. Of course it going to have to be both a selection of sushi AND sticks. I mean the clues in the name! If you’re sitting downstairs you can watch your meal being prepared in front of you, or alternatively you can salivate over the choice of your neighbours selection… Easy way to avoid this, order everything.

Once your feast arrives, you won’t know where to start as it all just looks so delicious. When ordering from the menu, I was sure that the sushi element would obviously be my favourite part of the meal, with sushi being my guilty pleasure. All this changed though upon receiving this platter of heaven. The sushi was perfect, but in strong contest were the yakitori sticks. Once the chicken meatball stick had reached my tastebuds, all thoughts of sushi had slipped my mind, it was just so simple, yet so incredibly scrumptious.

And if the sticks’n’sushi weren’t enough, the desserts just tipped it off. After the overdindulgence in the previous courses, these were the perfect size. However I recommend ordering a selection, strictly for taste testing purposes.Obviously.

So all in all, I cannot recommend Sticks’n’Sushi more highly. It works as a restaurant you can just drop in to after a hard day of shopping in your jeans and jumper, but equally, if you want dress up, you won’t be out of place at all. After all, ‘sushi is just fish in haute couture’.

(You will need to book this restaurant in advance as it does get very busy, particularly on Friday and Saturday night)

I love when Autumn finally comes around, as it means I can indulge in one of my favourite dishes, blackberry and apple. I used to have it every morning in Autumn, blackberry and apple compote on top of Greek yoghurt, or my mums blackberry and apple crumble in the evening. However since been diagnosed with numerous food intolerances, these dishes have become a thing of the past. This week I decided to challenge myself to make an equally yummy dessert with blackberry and apple, which as well as being gluten and dairy free, is refined sugar free as well, and I have to say I’m over the moon with the result. So here it is, my healthy and intolerance friendly blackberry and apple crumble pie.

3. Add the vanilla extract, coconut oil and salt and blitz. If the pastry is still too dry, add more coconut oil until it is less crumbly.

4. Grease the pie dish with a little coconut oil.

5. Take 2/3rds of the pastry and roll out into a circular shape, about 2mm in thickness. Line the pie dish. (Don’t worry if it is a little crumbly, you can press bits in to fill the holes)

6. With the leftover pastry, crumble it into a bowl, and then place this and the lined pie dish into the fridge.

7. Whilst the pastry is chilling, chop the apple into chunky slices.

8. Place the chopped apple plus all the other filling ingredients into a saucepan, and leave to stew with the lid on over a low heat for about 15 minutes.

9. Once the apple has softened, take the lined pie out of the fridge and pour the filling in until it is just below the rim of the dish. Take the crumble mixture and sprinkle it over the top of the pie.

10. Place the pie into the oven and cook for about 25 minutes or until the pastry starts to brown. Enjoy!

Amsterdam has to be one of my favourite cities to visit, just because there is so much to do and see. It is a city that I would find extremely hard to get bored in, and I know I will carry on returning to for many more city break trips.

I thought I would compile a list of things to do in Amsterdam that differ from the ordinary touristy attractions such as the Anne Frank House, Rijksmuseum, Hermitage, etc. Although they are must sees, there are so many other things that you can do to pad out a week in Amsterdam, so here are a few ideas for you.

One of my favourite things to do in Amsterdam, that I make a mission to do everytime I visit, is to stroll through the ‘Negen Stratjees’. These are nine shopping streets in Amsterdam, side by side, that contain individual and unique shops and cafes. You won’t find any chain stores along here, which in my option is fantastic. You can easily while away an afternoon flitting between the shops, and if you need a break from all the browsing (and of course purchasing!), I can highly recommend a cafe called ‘Pluk’ which serves up delicious juices, salads, and cakes. The best thing of all? They have lots of little interior items that you can peruse whilst you wait. Perfect.

Pluk

If you have an hour to spare and fancy something a bit different, you could head to the Museum of Bags and Purses on the Herengracht. It is only one of three museums in the worlds specialising in this field and its collection is the largest, with over 4,000 items, with handbags, purses and suitcases dating back to the 16th century. It also has exhibition changes, and at the time of writing, the current one is exploring the use of beads in the craftsmanship of the pieces.

If the weather is good, the best thing has to be to hire a bicycle and head to the Vondelpark. My suggestion is to pick up a few lunch items from Marqt (the BEST grocery store) so that you can spend the day picnicking in the park and taking in all the sights. If you are there during the summer months, check out the Vondelpark website, as there is often entertainment on that you can go and watch for free.

‘Ticket to the Tropics’ in Vondelpark

Another lovely thing to do if the weather is good is to hire a canal bike (pedalo). If it is a first visit to Amsterdam, I would say that a boat ride is the best option as you will travel most of the canals and hear lot of information about them and the canal houses. However if you’ve done the canal boat tour, then the canal bike is a must. It’s likely you won’t get very far, but its just great fun to be out on the water, trying to avoid crashing into all the boats, with the added bonus of getting a workout!

If you have a week in Amsterdam, I would say it is also worthwhile taking a day trip out of the city. Trains run regularly from Amsterdam Centraal, and there are many places to see within an hours travel. Den Haag is 50 minutes away, and although nice, I would not return here as it just didn’t have the same buzz as Amsterdam. However if you do find yourself here, a trip to Hop&Stork is a must a they have the most amazing slabs of chocolate that you can break off and mix and match.

Hop & Stork

The day trip I would recommend is to Delft, with a train time of 55 minutes. Delft is the perfect size for a day trip, in that it is small enough to walk around and there is enough to visit. Delft is renowned for its blue and white pottery, and there are three factories still producing this in the Delft area. On Thursdays there is also a market held in the main square of Delft and craft stalls set up on the banks of the canal. A visit to a Delft factory is a must, and of the three, I would visit the Royal Delft factory (Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles). This is located just outside of Delft, so you can purchase a shuttle bus ticket from the information office for €2. At the factory you can visit the museum which shows the history of Delft pottery, as well as see how it is made and painted. A the end you will face the conundrum over which pieces of pottery to buy!

Delt Painter

If eating and drinking in Amsterdam, you will probably face a similar dilemma of where to choose, as there are hundreds of places to pick from. However it is very easy to fall into the tourist traps, so here are a few places I would go.

I’ll start with breakfast, and for a good price, you can eat at Toon. This is a small cafe which has juices, pancakes, eggs Benedict and a scrumptious granola. For a fresh juice and main breakfast dish, the bill will come to under €15. The service here is also very good, with friendly staff.

For ‘elevenses’ nothing quite hits the spot like a little tart from ‘Petit Gateâu’. They have two stores in Amsterdam, one on Haarlemmerstraat, and one on Bellamyplein. There is a great selection and you can see them being made as the kitchen is in store.

Lunch is an easy choice for me. Any place serving frites and bitterballen is after my heart, however one restaurant which really impressed me was ‘George Loves Martini’. This restaurant/bistro is packed full of locals, and is a good alternative to a picnic in Vondelpark, as it sits just outside the gates. Expect simple dishes, done well.

If you’re in the Dam area, then lunch at the Bijenkorf is always a winner. They have a selection of different cuisines, all cooked fresh in front of you. The added bonus is that if it’s a good day, there is a roof terrace to enjoy your lunch on.

Pre dinner there is always time for a cocktail or two, and the bar at the Hoxton hotel certainly gets my vote. They have an interesting list to choose from and the atmosphere is great. Although dinner here at Lotti’s is good, it was fairly basic and in future I think I would just come here for a cocktail and then go elsewhere for dinner.

For dinner there are so many places to talk about but here are are my favourites.

The first is Cuarenta y Tres on Rembrandtplein. Although this area is full of touristy restaurants, this one really serves up something quite different. The few times I have eaten here, I have left fully satisfied. The risotto I had this time was simply delicious. They also do some great cocktails. (I can recommend the Moscow Mule)

For something a bit different you could try Ali, located just at the end of Utrechtsestraat. This is a turkish restaurant who offer the most amazing hummuses and dips, as well as their hot pillow-like flat breads, that you’ll be thinking about long after you leave.

My best dinner though has to have been at Guts and Glory. This modern restaurant has no menu. When you arrive all your are given is the theme, which changes every three months, and the option to order 5, 6, or 7 courses. You are asked if you have any allergens, but apart from that, the rest of the evening is a complete surprise! When we visited the ‘chapter’ theme was Italian, however expect no pasta. Instead we were delighted with dishes such as osso-buco with saffron risotto, melon granita with parma ham, and plenty more to tickle your tastebuds. Be prepared to book this restaurant in advance though during busy seasons.

After dinner, Door 74 is a great place to venture to. You do need to book in advance as it is speakeasy style where the outside looks like a rundown building, but inside you are greeted to a small cosy cocktail bar. However if you are after a bit more atmosphere, you cannot go wrong with having a couple of post dinner drinks on Rembrandtplein, particularly on a Friday or Saturday night when it really gets busy and there is a great buzz.

All in all Amsterdam is a city where there is always something going on and there are always new and exciting places to visit. I hope this has given you a couple of ideas of things to do, if, for some unknown reason, you find yourself with nothing to do. Highly unlikely I know..

(Oh and if you’re really looking to push the boat out on your city break, why not book a room at the Waldorf Astoria as it mean you can relax in their pool after a hard day out exploring the city.)