I'm a long time reader first time posting. Armed with the knowledge acquired from this forum I decided not to keep getting rip off and started working on my 03 6.0 myself.
So far I've done oem head gaskets arp studs new oil cooler new egr cooler and blue spring updated.
After changing the oil cooler i had a no start after about 200 miles with no oil
Pressure on the dummy gage.
I pin point the failure to a rip/clogged ipr screen. Now i fixing to install a new ipr valve but first i'd like to know if there are any procedures to make sure there are no contaminants in the oil that can clog the new IPR?
Also do i need a new ipr valve or can i just change the screen and orings on the old one.
I tried hard to keep any dirt from entering the filter housing while getting the old Ipr out but judging by the size of the ipr screen it seems that it does not take but a little bit of dust to clog it.

If the screen on the IPR is ripped and you have a no start condition, something has made it's way into the internals and is not allowing the valve to close all the way to build pressure. I doubt a new screen will no anything at that point.

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I believe your are right snake i did not use lint free towels and i had to clean up quite a bit of lint before installing the new oil cooler , I did my best with compresed air but i doubt i got all of them. Now my question is, how can i prevent this from happening to the new ipr? Would changing the old oil be enough?

The only way for debris to get to the IPR is thru the HPOP resivoir screen. So if there was even small amounts of debris in the HPOP resivoir during the install of the new oil cooler then thats the issue.

Now if the HPOP resivoir screen is good, then there should be NO MORE debris getting to the IPR screen because it cant get through the HPOP resivoir screen.

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Thanks a2elvis. That makes a lot of sense . The valley was also filthy so i can see some debri getting into the hole in the reservoir while the old screen was off. The new screen i installed should be good , may have some debri on it but not much. This shoud be it then , the truck was running better than new after the new headgaskets, studs and egr cooler and the new ipr should get it done.

More than likely you had some stuff (primarily lint) enter the HPOP when you were cleaning and while the HPOP screen was out (the IPR is the first sensor to see the oil after the HPOP screen). At this point, anything that may have been left in the HPOP reservoir should be captured by the HPOP screen. If it were me (and I'm really, really a stickler), I'd feel comfortable just changing the oil and the IPR. I think you should be good to go after that. No need to go back in and clean out the HPOP reservoir and HPOP screen again in my opinion.

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Yes Snake that was the problem. I soon as I had the no start after 200 miles I thought IPR. It seems to be a very common rookie mistake with backyard mechanics like me when replacing an oil cooler. I wonder how the pros deal with it , especially when the valley and everything around it is covered in oil and dirt like mine was ( leaky turbo return pipe). How do you clean everything without getting dirt in the reservoir?

Clean the valley all around the oil cooler first, then remove the oil cooler. Some lint free towels behind the oil cooler when its being removed will help keep the valley clean. Leave the HPOP screen in and suck the oil out of the reservoir with a hand pump or something similar. Use lint free towels to get out the last bit of oil and/or sludge. Remove the HPOP screen and use a lint free towel to clean underneath where the screen sits. Place the new HPOP screen in and spray the HPOP reservoir liberally with carb cleaner, then compressed air. Inspect and clean the HPOP screen as needed.

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