Tips and Tricks from "The Warming Experts"

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Yeah… Daylight Saving Time is upon us, and while it may make the evenings brighter… the shift shoves us back into more morning darkness for a little while longer. Great if you are a late sleeper, but not so much if you have work to do in all the dimness.

This remarkable tool uses 9 bright LED bulbs to light up your work area for over 48 continuous hours. It will automatically shut off after 15 minutes and is constructed of strong webbing with a small elastic insert so it will stretch and hold in place with a Velcro® closure strip.

If you still want to stay on your schedule without waiting for the late Sun of Daylight Saving Time to catch up to you… the Equalizer Caulking Gun Light is definitely the way to go.

Time was, you needed a full complement of repair tools, ranging from glues, caulks and adhesives to nails, screws, hooks and duct tape, just to tackle the regular maintenance chores that need to be done from time to time.

Many quick and creative household handyman jobs can now be accomplished with a miracle substance known as “All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk”.

Its double-duty formula holds like an adhesive and seals like a caulk. It can be left the same color it comes out of the tube (usually white) or is ready for painting in just two hours. And even though it is water-soluble for easy clean up … it dries to a waterproof state in only 24-hours.

You are probably going to want to keep some of this stuff handy because, aside from all the traditional uses (such as small caulking jobs for the kitchen and bath), this stuff is invaluable for everything from saving time to saving money. The list of tasks you can tackle with a tube of “All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk” are almost endless, but there are a few ideas and interesting uses here, just to get you thinking.

Loose tile in the shower? On a countertop or backsplash? Remove it, add a few dollops, and press it back into place. In 24-hours, you’re good to go. Grout needs a touch-up? Use some there too.

Caulk any gaps or cracks that appeared over the winter. It saves energy, prevents water damage and improves appearance. Don’t forget you can also touch up windows, doors, baseboards, tubs and sinks and much more!

Noisy cabinet doors or drawers that slam shut with a “bang?” A dab on inside corners (or on the frame) serves as quieting “bumpers.”

Flower pot or patio table rocking back and forth due to an uneven surface or bottom? To make “self-leveling” feet — turn it over, add a few dabs, let it partially set-up (six or seven hours) and place the bottom or legs down on pieces of waxed paper right where you want it. Next day, you’ll have a “solid” fit. Levels most things — big or small, inside or out.

Toilet tank lid doesn’t fit right? Scrapes and grinds because it’s loose? Put a bead around the top edge of the tank or inside the lid. Let dry for 24-hours and replace for a snug (and quiet) fit.

Want wood baseboard where it can’t be nailed … like around your bathtub? Glue it in place with adhesive caulk instead.

Repair cracks and holes in walls, molding or railings (or hide mitering mistakes). Ready to paint within two hours.

Loose floor tiles or wood trim? Lock it down with adhesive caulk.

Use as wallpaper “helper.” Glue loose edges back into place and seal to prevent curling due to moisture.

No need for mounting holes in exterior surfaces for hooks, signs, decorations or thermometers. Just apply adhesive caulk on item, tape into place and let dry. Great for brick, stucco and all types of siding. (Attach address numbers to house or mailbox too.)

Mount pegboard panels on studs in garage, carport or in attic for storage.

Firm up wobbly chair and table legs. (Even pro upholsters use it.)

Boat owners keep some handy to seal out water and to prevent destructive rust and corrosion above the water line. It’s great for RV, ATV and motorcycle use too.

It’s also a thoughtful housewarming gift!

Just a few more expert ideas from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer

Ever notice wasps and other flying bugs inspecting your house? They are looking for warm accommodations for the upcoming winter season.

Caulk and foam can serve as the first line of defense by sealing gaps and cracks around a home, helping to prevent pests from entering. Each can be used alone as a proactive and insecticide-free approach or in conjunction with bug sprays if bugs have already penetrated the home.

The best way to keep pests from infesting your home is to keep them out in the first place. Eliminating their entry points by sealing up all cracks, crevices, holes, and gaps on the exterior of the home will help improve the chances that your home will remain pest free throughout the fall, winter, and springtime seasons. Insects come in all different sizes and therefore can fit into tiny deficiencies in a building. Caulk in an easy and inexpensive way to keep insects and pests out of your home. Here are a few caulking tips…

Check around corners, edges, doors and windows and lighting fixtures. Check every inch around anything that attaches to or pokes out of the house. Take it slow and caulk every little hole or crack.

• Using caulk around window frames will not only keep the temperature of your home regulated, it will keep unwanted insects out.

• Use caulk to seal joints. • Clear silicone caulk is known for its flexibility and is recommended for areas that will not be painted.

So… it’s officially the first day of summer and the longest day of the year.

While there is much in that to be celebrated, it is also another reason to choose your caulking materials carefully. Especially if you are sealing exterior surfaces. The outside of a home is exposed to harsh outdoor elements throughout the year. Extreme heat, the sun’s UV rays, and freezing temperatures can cause acrylic caulk to lose its flexibility and degrade. Degraded acrylic caulk can crack and crumble over time, leaving gaps for air and water to seep through. Those leaks can lead to water damage, mold growth, and higher energy bills.

Even though longer exposure to the Summer Sun will bring a smile to most faces, it will also bring more wear and tear to your sealed surfaces. This is why you will want to choose a good exterior grade silicone sealant for all of your exterior applications.

Just a few more expert ideas from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer

So you think you are a “caulk artist” eh? Well, there’s an interior wall finishing idea on the rise known as caulk frosting. This application method allows you to create custom-made architectural elements on interior (and some exterior) surfaces. So, load up your caulking gun with a paintable caulk and release some creativity!

You can impress your clients with a spectacular architectural accent for any room using some very simple materials. You can also use this technique on ceilings, walls, clay pots, furniture, lamps and picture frames to create stunning effects.

1. Pencil the placement of the design on the surface to be decorated.

2. Extrude the caulk onto the surface following the pencil lines.

3. To make the fine tendrils, cut a ¼” slice off the tip of the new tube of caulking. Place tendrils randomly along the fine. To make curly tendrils, move the caulking in small circles.

4. To make leaves, cut the cap off the tube of caulking as shown in the diagram. Place cap back on caulking tube with the ¾” slice off the end. The cut cap should be placed on the tube so that the V notch is pointing to the top of the caulking gun. Extrude leaves along the vine in pairs.

5. To make grapes, slice the caulking tube ¾” – 1″ from the top. Make small blobs with the caulk – they should look like large chocolate ships. Extrude the blobs on the surface in a grape cluster design. Dip your finger in water and smooth the tops of the grapes. To achieve a more 3-D effect, place a few more grapes on the top. Let dry 2-3 days before painting.

6. If you really want to achieve artistic perfection, try duct-taping the same tips used by cake decorators to the extrusion end of your caulking tube. Decorative pastry tips usually come in packs with a few different models included for a variety of shapes and designs.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King andCaulkWarmer

Caulk gun nozzles affect the size and shape of the caulk bead as it ejected from the gun. There are specialty nozzles designed specifically for certain applications like Flexible Caulk Nozzles which provide a functionality that allows the nozzle to bend in all directions and can be used to apply sealant for a professional finish in even those hard-to-reach places. Flexible Caulk Nozzle Extensions can be used to gain access to those hard to reach places. They install quickly and easily and will bend to access behind or into recesses. This is the property that makes them cost effective and labor saving because they can create odd bends, 180 degree bends, S-bends, and can expand and contract to lengthen or shorten tube from 6″ up to 12″ in length. The easy access to hard to reach places also limits the time you have to spend working in positions damaging to your back muscles like:

Corners

Ceilings

Behind and Under Sinks

Toilets

Door Trims

Kitchen Sinks

Roofing

RV

Trailers

Boats

Signs

Windows

Corners

Ceilings

Behind and Under Sinks

Toilets

Door Trims

Kitchen Sinks

Roofing

RV

Trailers

Boats

Signs

Windows

When caulking into recesses Caulk Nozzle Extensions will work best by pushing down the extension nozzle to the bottom of the prepared holes and gradually withdrawing as the caulk is extruded. Applying slow steady pressure will ensure that the recess is fully filled.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King andCaulkWarmer

the contaminants on the surfaces of the joint (like dust, pollen, etc.)

the ability of the caulk to “wet” the surfaces of the joint for good adhesion

the ability of the caulk to properly cure and develop its ideal physical properties

Ideal Weather Conditions
Plan to caulk in ideal temperatures whenever possible. What is ideal? 50°F and rising and 90°F and falling. Be sure to pay attention to the surface temperature where you’ll be applying the caulk. It should also fall within that idea temperature range.

Wet / Snowy Conditions
If it has just rained or snowed, allow the surfaces to completely dry before caulking. Wet surfaces will make proper adhesion difficult and may inhibit proper curing of the caulk. In the same way, avoid applying caulk – even in ideal weather – if rain or snow is expected within 24 hours. If you need to get the caulking done, go ahead and do it. Just make sure to cover your work with a plastic tarp to prevent moisture from getting onto the caulk and causing it to wash out.

Weather Extremes
It is never good practice to apply caulk in extreme temperatures. Whether hot or cold, the joint will not be at its ideal size, the caulk will not cure correctly (which causes performance problems), or the caulk may develop blisters. Any weather-related problems with the caulk can be fixed fairly easily, but are also avoided altogether through simple weather watching.

Warm Dry Surfaces
Make sure the substrate is clean and dry. In cold weather a thin layer of ice can form on the substrate and if you apply caulk on top it, the water between the caulk and the substrate will prevent the caulk from adhering. You can use a hair dryer to melt the ice and warm the substrate or, even better, clean the substrate using either methyl ethyl ketone or acetone (available at home stores). This will not only get rid of the ice, but ensure the surface of the substrate is clean, so the caulk can bond tightly.

Warm the Caulking Tube
Keep your tubes of caulking warm until just before you want to use them. Even high performance cold weather caulk won’t flow smoothly or easily when it’s cold, so it won’t get right down into the joint. Of course, we think you can find the perfect warming bags for all your adhesive and sealants on the job-site here: caulkwarmer.com

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King and CaulkWarmer

Sometimes, a colored caulk is needed for sealing or repairing a particular job. Finding the correct color of caulk for some projects is challenging, but colored caulk is easily made using simple paint mixing techniques. No special skills are required for making colored caulk. Making colored caulk is quick and simple for anyone.

Custom Tinting Acrylic Caulks

1) Cut the back of the tube off with a utility knife, squeeze all the caulk out of the tube on to a scrap board or into a mixing container.

2) Using universal painters tints, squirt about 1 tbsp. of the desired color into the caulk. Mix the color into the caulk using a wooden mixing tool, long handled wooden spoon, or a putty knife to get the right color and shade. Use at least 1/4 cup of un-tinted caulk when mixing a custom colored caulk. Make sure you mix the color thoroughly into the caulk, or you will end up with clear caulk in some areas and colors in other areas. Always mix your custom color just a bit lighter, as the colored caulk will darken slightly when dry. Remember, you can only use water based tints with water based caulks.

3) Scoop the colored caulk back into the tube from the back end, and then reseal the cut opened end of the tube with masking tape, several folds over the end and a couple of times around. Purge the tube of the remaining un-mixed caulk on a scrap and when the colored caulk starts to come out, you are ready to caulk your project. You can also get empty re-fillable caulking cartridges for use with a caulking gun for this process if you are applying your custom colored caulking to a large job. When finished, wipe some of the colored caulk on the shoulder of the tube so you will have a color reference if you want to use it again.

4) Use the colored caulking immediately. Store any excess caulking in a container with a lid. Use the leftover colored caulking within the next several months. It can stay soft and usable for up to a year as long as it is sealed.

Custom Tinting Silicone Based Sealants

Silicone-based sealants come in a variety of pre-mixed colors and because they are a great deal more difficult to custom tint it may be better to simply purchase a pre-tinted color to match your job, however, if you simply MUST custom-color a silicone based sealant you should remember that silicone-based caulks will require oil based tints or pigments to blend correctly and must be mixed in an air-tight environment as they skim-over as soon as they are squeezed out of the tube. This means you cannot mix your desired color on a scrap board or in a separate mixing container. Instead, you should use the following process:

1) Squeeze your silicone caulk into a plastic bag and add small amounts of silicone tints, which are concentrated pigment-based coloring agents that you can find it at paint stores and at mail-order woodworking-supply outfits.

2) To mix, knead the bag with your hands, or us the caulk tube as a rolling pin to mix the colors with the caulk inside the sealed plastic bag.

3) Once the caulk is mixed to a consistent color, snip one end of the bag and use it like a cake-frosting bag to squeeze out a consistent bead, or squeeze the entire contents of the bag into empty re-fillable caulking cartridge for use with a caulking gun.

4) Use the colored caulking immediately. Store any excess caulking in a container with a lid. Use the leftover colored caulking within the next several months. It can stay soft and usable for up to a year as long as it is sealed.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King andCaulkWarmer

Caulking accessories allow you to successfully complete almost any sealing job regardless of how difficult to reach or see.

Some of the more common caulking accessories include:

Caulk Guns – A caulking gun is used in the application of caulk. Most caulking guns are shells that hold a caulk tube and allow pressure to be controlled by the user through a trigger-like handle. Whether you opt for a basic model or a fancy electric model, using a caulking gun can take a little practice. However, almost everyone can pick up the basic technique. Of course, we think you can find a fine one right here.

Extension Nozzles – Nozzles are made with a bend built right into them that allows application of sealants or caulks to places standard nozzles can’t reach. You will find a good example here.

Flex Nozzles – The flexible design of this particular kind of extension nozzle allows adjustments to create a bend or extend length. You can adjust a flex nozzle to bend to access behind or into recesses, create odd bends, 180 degree bends, S-bends, and can expand and contract to lengthen or shorten tube from 6″ up to 12″ in length. You can see some here.

Caulking Gun Light – This ingenious accessory collars the working end of your caulking barrel to directly illuminate your work area for over 48 continuous hours. It is constructed of strong webbing with a small elastic insert so it will stretch and hold in place with a Velcro® closure strip. You can find them here.

Caulking Applicator/Finishing Tools – Ideally, caulking applicator tools, sometimes referred to as “tooling spatulas” will not scratch or damage glass, painted surfaces, metal, tile, porcelain, polished stone, etc. They will smooth out and force sealant into joint for a superior seal and assist in the creation of perfect caulking bead as they conform to almost any angle necessary. A good example can be found here.

Silicone Cleaner – Many types of caulk will clean up with soap and water, however, some silicone caulks will require a specially formulated cleaner. You can find an example of one of these cleaners here.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King andCaulkWarmer

Removing caulk can be a messy experience, and lead to a lengthy amount of time spent if not done correctly. Here are a few tips to make removing caulk less of a hassle.

Prep the Remova Area
Make sure the surface is clear of any loose dirt or oils. This will prepare the caulking for removal by providing a non-slip surface. then cut the caulking with a razor blade to determine what kind of caulking it is. Caulk that is silicone-based will feel like soft rubber when you try to cut it. Water-based latex caulk or PVA caulk is harder and more prone to chipping.

Soak the remains of the caulking
For water-based caulk, saturate the rags with rubbing alcohol and balance them onto the caulking. The alcohol enlarges the molecules in the caulking and separates it from its previous setting. For some caulks (such as silicone-based caulking) you may need the help of a chemical caulk remover or softener. The soaking process softens up the caulk for removal, making it neater for cleaning up, however it can take a few hours (or even days) to loosen up the caulk. A sponge brush can be paired up with the caulk softener to apply the softener to the caulk. Some caulk softeners are spray on or gel applications and do not need this to apply. After the old caulking is sufficiently softened you can use a plastic putty knife or a caulk removing tool to scrape the old caulking away. It will come off in chunks.

Manual Caulk Removal Tool
There are tools made just for removing caulking that can do a nice job getting the bulk of the caulk off relatively inexpensively. They usually have all kinds of special little angles and patented cutting edges that allows for the removal of caulk within the joint itself. Look for one with a corner scraper which will also scrape the sides of the joint with a hardened plastic edge that won’t damage the finish surface of the tile, tub or sink. The caulk removal tool’s best feature is its pointed edge that digs into the caulk and allows you to strip off most of it by moving along the caulk line. Simply insert the pointed edge (it takes a little force depending on the hardness of the caulk), then lay the tool so the tools ‘V’ shaped edge lays in the seam and while pushing down, push the tool through the caulk by following the caulk line. If you have a trash you can toss the large pieces, or use your vacuum hose to suck them up as you go.

Direct a heat gun at the caulking
Use the gun’s lowest temperature setting. Heat will help to soften water-based caulking. Target areas of the caulk that are most difficult to remove, such as the corners. Hold the heat gun in 1 hand and your scraping tool in the other so you can scrape as the caulk softens.

Removing caulk residue
There may still be some adhesive residue on your working surface. Carefully slice/scrape this remaining caulking off with a razor blade, flathead screwdriver / utility knife / paint scraper or 5-in-1 tool. Any one of these (or a combination) willd work for removing the little bit of excess leftover after removing the bulk of the caulk with the caulk remover tool. Use discretion using these tools as they may scratch the surface if you are not careful..

Vacuum the crevice
This will remove caulk debris that has fallen into the crack or become stuck in the sides. You can use this to cleanup the caulk bits right away. You will have a cleaner work area to see how clean your area for caulking is, as well as minimize the time spent picking up millions of caulk chips. If you don’t have access to a vacuum with a hose you can always dispose of the large pieces by hand. It may help to have a bucket to collect the removed caulk. You can also use a slightly damp paper towel to wipe up the small residue pieces you removed. The damp paper towel is better at getting these pieces than a washcloth, acting somewhat like a magnet.

Final Clean Up
Clean up with soap and water, then scrub the area with denatured (rubbing) alcohol and apply a mildew eliminator. This removes the mold or mildew that grew under the old caulking. To get a nice clean finish, use a washcloth and mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol to wipe down the remaining and difficult to see residue. Now that you have finished removing the caulk and wiped down the area, you must allow it to dry before re-caulking.

Just another expert idea from Guy Calor, the Caulk King andCaulkWarmer