I like to throw small clousers for bass, crappie and bream in the size 8-4 range with lead and beadchain eyes. With the lead heads (up to a 7/32 barbell) I have a heck of a time slinging them much more than 50-60 feet with a six weight. My dilemma is that this is the biggest stick I own. I know that an 8 weight would be better. Anybody out there have the same hard time or are there some tricks other than a good double haul to manage These heavy flies? :-/ I am using a Rio nymph line for 6 which weighs in at 178grains. My rod is a medium action 9ftr. Thanks in advance,

I'm definately not a great distance caster so I'm interested to see what some others say, but I do know that I can cast a lot farther with a faster action rod. That might help you some if you decide to get another rod but don't want to go up to an 8 weight. I was flinging heavily weighted nymphs today with a 5 weight and was throwing them up to about 60 feet using a fast action rod. I think that shooting line helps a lot also. If you get good line speed (with the double haul you mentioned, or even a single haul), the weight of the fly seems to actually help get some distance when you are shooting line, at least for me. It sure looks ugly though 8-) :P

David Knapp

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AA, I would rather use a 6 or 7 wt rod for bass and bluegill. I use a 6. I like to tie all Clousers with bead chain eyes, they will be lighter and easier to cast. You'll have to wait longer for them to sink. You can also use a shorter leader and that helps me. An 8 weight isn't much fun for bluegill. And, 60 feet ain't bad. Byron

AA... I agree with David that a fast action rod would help in this situation. However, I also agree with Byron that a shorter leader would improve casting heavier flies. I would suggest you try some variations on leaders before buying another rod. For one thing, you could make your own tapered leaders using perfection loop knots to connect the sections, and use fluorocarbon as a tippet. Fluorocarbon is stiffer than nylon/monofiliament, but it is also more abrasion resistant and harder for the fish to see due to its color index. However, bass and bluegills are not particularly leader shy like trout tend to be at times. Fluorocarbon, due to its stiffer nature will turn over heavy flies more easily than mono. I know this from my saltwater fishing experiences tossing 6 to 7 inch bucktails with a stiff breeze (using a 10-weight). If you try fluoro, you need to use some different knots to attach the fly than with mono. One of the best is the non-slip loop knot. Using that knot you also gain the advantage of having better action using Clouser style flies. If you are unfamiliar with that knot, go to Google search and type in "Lefty's Knots 101." You'll get an article with knots from the ol' master himself, Lefty Kreh. Finally, like Byron said, "sixty feet ain't bad." In my book, unless you are limited by movement, that's really further than you generally need to toss. Shorter gives you better control and detection of strikes. Happy fishing.

I've developed a new casting method for use on the lake from a bass boat in the wind with a five weight. it's called the sling and duck. my fishing partner was laughing at me until he felt the beaded eye of a clouser pop him in the back of the head.

If you get another rod try a 10 footer. You'll be shooting out all the line before you know it..even with heavy flies. The Loomis GLX is a good start. Beadchain eyes are fine but you sacrifice some of that good, fast, up and down motion that a clouser is famous for. The short leader was good advice. Although, there's not really a need in building tapered leaders when they're 3-5ft long. Just use straight flourocarbon. I use heavy leaders up to 30lb test and the fish don't seem to mind. I use 30lb to save my flies from snags. Another thing that will help heave heavy flies out there is a sinking-tip. The loop knot advice is good also. I tie all my streamers with this knot.