My freezer won't get below room temp. The Fridge works fine.(2 compressors on this model.) I had an appliance guy look at it and he said its probably low on Freon, but only after he thought it was the control panel and replaced it.

I think my next step is to look for a second opinion and can these be recharged ? Do any of the Guru's know if they can be recharged ?

I looked into replacing the unit, I see a wide range of pricing. I'm looking for input from the Guru's

Can a "stand alone" or "built in" household unit, withstand the highway abuse that a motorhome gives a fridge with vibration. Is one better for a Coach over the other ? Salesmen say they about the same, some say the built ins (3x's more expensive) are better.

Has anyone installed a stand alone, and secured it ? Do they last as long ?

my search of an 700TC comes up with used units on Ebay at $8,990 to $2,500 plus shipping, all refurbished or used.

Hello Carpe,
Check to see if the evaporator fan inside the freezer is working. This fan blows the internal air across the coils, cooling to your set temp. If no air is flowing, the coils will freeze up looking like it is low on Freon. Here is a video of the reverse situation as yours but it will give the just of it....https://youtu.be/xuBVbuP7_GU

my 2002 whirlpool fridge went bad after 12 years. my 99 has the original whirlpool fridge and is working just fine. i always leave my coach fridges turned on in my shop in storage.

if you have the subzero 700tc, the biggest issue i see is that it is an odd dimension. if what i read is right, it is 27 inches wide and 80 inches tall and counterdepth. that is a non standard width and height for a household counterdepth fridge.

when i put the kitchenaid in my 02 (in an rv park in canada i might add) it was the only fridge that would fit the hole i had from the whirlpool. so the opening dictates the fridge you put in.

i have no issues with household fridges in coaches.

i have a built in fridge in my home and it too is very expensive. only advantage i had seen is the compressor and things on it are accessible from the front without moving the fridge. i dont see that in the subzero one you have if the pictures are accurate.

All refrigeration equipment can be worked on including charging the refrigerant and replacing the compressor. First order of business is to determine if both compressor and fan is
Running for the freezer section. Then see if the unit has access ports for the refrigerant. Only a
Set of gauges attached with unit running will tell you anything. Everything else is guessing.

If you have to install taps to access the refrigerant insist that the tech braze in permanent fittings, the bolt on taps will eventually leak the refrigerant back out.

I made a point about the guessing, I wouldn’t be calling that tech back to my coach. You might look to see if Subzero has a listing of authorized techs close to where you are.

If properly done, breaking into the refrigerant loop is not a fast or cheap process. The temporary tap must be installed, then the refrigerant recovered, then the permanent taps brazed in, then pressurize with N2 to check for leaks, pull vacuum for an hour, and finally weigh in the replacement refrigerant. I went through that to give some insight as to potential cost, and time to do it. It’s a good half day endeavor.

Thanks Steve. the video is most informative. I'm not sure I would trust a port added to my SuZero and then create a 8.0 Shaker and assume it will be OK.

Thanks Tom, on your thoughts about the household free standing vs the built in. I suspect the other reason the 27" was used is the ability to get it in and out of a coach. I have a front door model and I think the Navigators Chair will need to be removed if its an R & R. I found 2 brands 24" Lieberr $3.000, with BAD reviews and Best Buy has a 24" wide free standing at $1,400

A bird in the hand ? I'm going to exhaust repair thoughts first

Richard, Agreed and understood. I have found an Authorized repair service Co to come out tomorrow and diagnose and repair if possible. I agree, the shell or structure, should never be bad, and all components should be replaceable if properly diagnosed and time invested in doing it correct.

My skill set is not purging, soldering in ports, N2 testing, and recharge, unless its on a unnecessary or non critical components.

Like Clint Eastwood (Dirty Harry) said " A man has to know his limitations". I know mine (today)

SubZero Tech came out, found 1 electrical fitting with too much resistance, and a little low on freon. It has a port. The tech repaired the fitting and switch that it was attached to, recharged the freon, and we are good. I did not discharge and test, but then again, I've been driving for a year and about 27K miles so that is not bad. I'll see how long this takes, if at all, to leak down. If its sooner than later, I'll do a complete evacuate, test , repair and recharge. All in for repairs and field call, $228 in SF bay area. (CA)

700TC is an odd size and impossible to source a replacement counter-depth integrated unit for stateside. However, these units were installed en masse in some hotels in Vegas and are readily available now if you need a replacement, used one, for quite a bit lower price than MSRP.

That said, SZ are designed to be accessed and repaired, and with our added switching costs, it almost always will make sense to repair them rather than wholesale replace.

Newell has moved to a 30-inch width on the new coaches, opening up a much better range of options going forward.