Halfway through a recent meal at chef Adam Dorris’s inviting Montrose bistro, a friend remarked in awe: “I had no idea food could be this exciting.” Indeed, it fascinates, with bottarga, buckwheat and blackberry vinegar salads and bowls of Chinese nine-spiced brisket prompting the kinds of conversations that typically might be reserved for the restaurant’s ever-rotating display of modern masterpieces by the likes of Warhol.

No matter the New American experience you’re seeking—secret supper–style dining in chic, monochromatic surrounds, or obscure sour ales and pizzas topped with house-made charcuterie, enjoyed while bellied up to a bustling bar—you’ll find it here.

A brunch on the plush patio overlooking Hermann Park—of, say, orange-and-cinnamon buttered-brioche French toast, or short-rib-and-chorizo chili with grits and eggs—will have you reconsidering hotel restaurant dining.