As we belted out the words to Tom Petty’s feisty anthem, fists pumping along with the rest of the crowd at the Frank Erwin Center on the University of Texas campus, the decades seemed to melt away

All of a sudden, it was just me, a 31-year-old newly single mom, sitting at the steering wheel beside a four-year-old tow-headed boy, cruising the south-of-the-border roads to the seaside resort town of San Carlos, Mexico.

The year was 1989, and we were on our first official road trip. Technically, there were just the two of us in the pickup truck. But it turned out our friend Tom was there the whole way as well. Time and time again on that long, hot drive, we popped a tape of Petty’s recent hit album, “Full Moon Fever” into the cassette player.

A good 20 years before “The Walking Dead” would make zombies all the rage, my son gravitated to “Zombie Zoo.” I had a soft spot for “Alright for Now.” We both loved “Runnin’ Down a Dream,” and “I Won’t Back Down.”

Little did I know at the time that road trips – and really, travel of all kinds – would become a lifelong thing for my son and me. Or that, from that week forward, whenever I heard the opening chords to “Free Fallin,’” I would be back in my old truck, feeling the warm breezes and the sweet bonds of motherhood.

So, when my son – now the same age I was that long-ago summer – bought tickets for a Tom Petty concert as an early Mother’s Day gift to me while I was visiting in his new hometown of Austin, Texas, it couldn’t have been more meaningful.

It got me reflecting on how that trip to Mexico, which turned out to be epic in so many ways, whetted both our appetites for travel.

Over the years, we’ve taken countless more trips together. Weekend jaunts to the Sea of Cortez in Sonora, Mexico. Multi-day cross-country marathons from our home in Arizona to visit family members in North Dakota. And one especially wonderful three-week-long camping trip up British Columbia’s west coast and then south through Alberta’s spectacular mountain ranges.

Every growing-up milestone, it seemed, was celebrated with a trip. High school graduation: A cruise to Jamaica. College years: A backpacking trip to Ireland, the Netherlands, and Italy. College graduation: Waikiki and the North Shore of Oahu.

Then, when my son met the girl of his dreams, we all traveled to Taiwan to meet her family and see her beautiful country. A couple of years later, another major milestone: A destination wedding along the Russian River in California’s Sonoma Valley.

I’m back to traveling mostly solo now, while my son and daughter-in-law make their own adventures. I can rest assured, though, that I raised a good traveler – one who learned to take the inconveniences in stride, and appreciate the differences of foreign places rather than finding the faults. So, on this week that celebrates mothers, I raise my glass to the pleasures of raising a child. It’s a fun ride!

Sure, there were some travel fails along the way. Don’t ask me about the pitfalls of taking an 18-year-old boy to New Orleans’ Bourbon Street. Or one slightly awkward visit to a coffee shop in Amsterdam. Or the confused looks we got while traveling together in Europe, where we learned very quickly that mothers and daughters travel together all the time; mothers and 21-year-old sons – not so much.

But overall, I realize that I used travel as a parenting tool. It was a way to bond when the going got rough. There’s nothing like 12-hour days together in a car to clear out the cobwebs in a parent-child relationship.

And always, somewhere along the way, we would hear or play or sing one of those Tom Petty songs. Because, really, what says “road trip” better than this?

“It was a beautiful day, the sun beat down

I had the radio on, I was drivin’

Trees flew by, me and Del were singin’ Little Runaway

I was flyin’

Yeah, runnin’ down a dream

That never would come to me

Workin’ on a mystery, goin’ wherever it leads

Runnin’ down a dream”

(Lyrics by Tom Petty, Jeff Lynne, and Mike Campbell)

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/05/13/my-mothers-dayroad-triptom-petty-connection/feed/3IMG_2208nearandfarazgIMG_2194gIMG_2191Prescott’s most charming trailhttps://nearandfaraz.com/2017/04/12/prescotts-most-charming-trail/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/04/12/prescotts-most-charming-trail/#commentsWed, 12 Apr 2017 06:40:10 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=4256Read More]]>Whenever I hike the Peavine Trail in Prescott, Arizona, two questions come to mind: How can so many amazing features be packed into 5.5 miles? And why aren’t more people using it?

As my hometown trail, the Peavine has been on my radar for a long time. I’ve hiked it in every season, and I’ve checked out all of the “white-dot trails” that lead off of the main trail into the spectacular Granite Dells.

Certainly, the trail has grown in popularity through the years. It is a staple for locals out for a stroll and an increasing draw for tourists. Still, on a recent Sunday afternoon – under partly cloudy skies, with temps in the high 60s – I saw no more than a dozen other hikers and bikers as I slowly ambled along an eight-mile round trip.

I have to say – this trail has something for everyone: A lively history as one of Arizona’s first rail routes; a smooth, wide surface with a gentle grade; a great location just a few miles from downtown Prescott; and stunning views of not just the orange-hued granite formations of the Dells, but also of the blue waters of Watson Lake.

I especially enjoy the variety of vegetation of the high-desert landscape.

Cacti here …

Pine trees there …

And grassy wildflowers all along the way.

Oh, I can’t forget the mossy riparian areas in the sometimes-dry creeks – a benefit of an especially wet winter.

Even though the Peavine is a treat, it is in the rugged network of trails that branches off the main trail that I tend to find the real treasures. Nicknamed the “white-dot trails” because of the trusty paint spots that point the way, the trails lace through the sea of granite that makes up the iconic Dells.

There are countless routes – all well marked with signs and colorful maps.

You can’t go wrong with any of the choices, but on this day I chose the Secret Cove Trail as a relatively quick way to get lake access. Down a ravine, over a shelf of granite, and there it was – the tranquil water of Watson Lake’s Secret Cove.

The water of the cove was still as glass, but as I rounded a bend on the trail I heard the delightful sound of rushing water. I soon found the source at a small, dilapidated dam – overflowing with water.

It was a rare sight, I knew, and a wonderful way to cap off my Sunday afternoon hike.

The Peavine Trail is a rails-to-trails route located in Prescott, Arizona. The main trailhead is located off Sundog Ranch Road. To get there from downtown Prescott, head east on Gurley Street for three miles. Take Highway 89 north for three miles to Prescott Lakes Parkway, and turn east (right). Take the first left off of Prescott Lakes Parkway onto Sundog Ranch Road. The Peavine Trailhead is on the left. There is a $3 parking fee.

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/04/12/prescotts-most-charming-trail/feed/1DSC07676 (1)nearandfarazDSC07850DSC07852DSC07651DSC07660DSC07739DSC07674DSC07690DSC07805DSC07819DSC07743DSC07824DSC07647DSC07830DSC07729DSC07749DSC07725DSC07834DSC07758DSC07809IMG_1752DSC07798DSC07796DSC07762DSC07769DSC07773DSC07785gIMG_1720Paradise – Arizona stylehttps://nearandfaraz.com/2017/03/20/paradise-arizona-style/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/03/20/paradise-arizona-style/#commentsMon, 20 Mar 2017 04:48:24 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=4092Read More]]>Water – it’s precious anywhere, but in Arizona, it takes on a value that I think only desert dwellers can understand. Think 115-degree summertime temps and near-zero-percent humidity, and you get the picture.

So, when there’s a spot where sparkling, blue-green water is gushing through a rugged desert canyon, it gets people’s attention.

That is the case with the waterfalls along Fossil Creek. Once, the creek was a little-known, word-of-mouth kind of destination. I had heard about it years ago, and it’s been on my must-list forever. But for a variety of reasons, I had never made it to the remote location in the middle of the Coconino National Forest.

In the meantime, though, Instagram and Facebook happened to Fossil Creek, and all of a sudden, the spot was a statewide sensation. Because, really, this place is super photogenic.

I finally made it to Fossil Creek over the weekend, and I have to say that it lived up to the hype. Sure, there were flocks of bikini- and board-short-clad college students waiting to leap from the top of the waterfall.

For the most part, though, it’s a laid-back scene, and there are plenty of spots to wander off by yourself.

And did I mention the water?

I’m accustomed to the run-off water that flows through Arizona creeks during the rainy season. This isn’t that. The Coconino National Forest describes Fossil Creek this way: “One of two ‘Wild and Scenic’ rivers in Arizona, (it) seems to appear out of nowhere, gushing 20,000 gallons a minute out of a series of springs at the bottom of a 1,600 foot deep canyon. Over the years these calcium laden waters have laid down huge deposits of a type of limestone called travertine. That rock-like substance encases whatever happens to fall into the streambed, forming the fossils for which the area is named.”

So yes, the water is special.

Because of Fossil Creek’s growing popularity, the Forest Service imposed a permit requirement, starting April 1. Since we visited in March, we didn’t have to worry about that. But info is available on the Coconino National Forest’s website.

A couple of other caveats on Fossil Creek. First of all – as I mentioned – it gets crowded. When we visited on March 19, the parking lots were packed by the time we headed out. I would recommend going early if you want to get a space. We arrived by about 10:30 a.m. and left at 1:30 p.m.

And second – probably most important – is that Fossil Creek is very remote. After driving through Camp Verde on the paved Highway 260 for about 10 miles, we headed off onto a dirt road. The Forest Service directions: From State Route 260, between road mile 228 and 229, Forest Road 708 (Fossil Creek Road) will intersect SR260 to the south, signed as Fossil Creek/Verde River. Travel 14 miles down this rough dirt road (high-clearance vehicles recommended) to the intersection with Forest Road 502.

And when they say it’s a rough dirt road, they mean it. I didn’t have a high-clearance vehicle, and I made it OK, but it definitely would have helped. There are many places where sharp rocks protrude from the road, and I had to drive very slowly. And IT’S 14 MILES!

Also, about the trail: It’s a fairly easy one-mile hike from the main parking lot to the falls. Still, parts of the trail are fairly rough and rocky.

Overall, though, the obstacles are so worth it. In my mind, Fossil Creek is as close to paradise as you’ll get in Arizona.

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/03/20/paradise-arizona-style/feed/2DSC06761nearandfarazDSC06745IMG_1399IMG_1480DSC06776DSC06699DSC06697DSC06689DSC06800IMG_1397IMG_1466DSC06779IMG_1389DSC06681DSC06678DSC06690gIMG_1429gIMG_1430gIMG_1470San Francisco: A treat – even in the rainhttps://nearandfaraz.com/2017/02/18/san-francisco-a-treat-even-in-the-rain/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/02/18/san-francisco-a-treat-even-in-the-rain/#respondSat, 18 Feb 2017 19:38:27 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=3682Read More]]>You know that feeling you get when you return to a place you love? You know exactly what you want to do, and you’re excited to get started? That’s how I felt on my most recent trip to San Francisco.

I arrived on the day before my birthday, and I couldn’t wait to hit the streets. Just one little problem, however: Rain. The online forecast for the weekend was all clouds, umbrellas, and raindrops.

View from under the umbrella

Still, as I checked into my hotel on that slightly dreary Friday morning, I was encouraged by the attitude of the hotel concierge. “We’ve had worse,” he said when I asked him about the weather. With that, I tucked an umbrella into my tote and headed off.

Although I’ve visited San Francisco a number of times over the past eight years and experienced all types of weather, this trip was unique in one way: It was the first time I was completely on my own. When none of my friends or family members could get away to join me, I saw it as a perfect opportunity to come up a personalized agenda of favorites.

So here goes – my very own list of San Francisco treats:

Swan Oyster Depot

Ever since I had watched Anthony Bourdain dig into huge platters of crab and oysters while sitting at the bar at Swan Oyster Depot in an episode of his CNN show “Parts Unknown,” the Polk Street café had been on my list. But for some reason, I had never made it to the somewhat off-the-beaten path location.

I was determined this time, even though I had been forewarned about the long lines. So, as soon as I checked into my Union Square hotel, I headed out on the 20-minute walk to 1517 Polk Street. The rain was probably my friend in this case, because only about a half-dozen people were waiting at the door when I arrived at about 10:30 a.m. The line moved fairly fast, and I snagged a stool in less than 30 minutes.

The atmosphere was casual, and the pace was quick: Servers cracking crab, slicing sashimi, shucking oysters, and taking orders in-between. It’s a no-nonsense kind of place – just what I was after that morning before heading out for a busy day of exploring.

Crab is an all-time favorite, and I ended up ordering a crab cocktail with Louis sauce, and a cup of clam chowder – both good choices, although the crab was definitely the star. The cocktail bowl was stuffed with delicate, flaky crab meat, and the Louis sauce was tangy/sweet.

Of course, oysters were popular with most everyone else

Land’s End

The Land’s End Trail was another spot that had been on my SF must-list for years. But, located on the far western side of the city, it just never seemed to fit into my schedule. Even though the weather wasn’t optimal for hiking that day, I decided that it was now or never.

From Union Square, I hopped on the 38 Muni bus, and rode it along Geary Street through the rolling avenues, until I reached 33rd Ave. where I caught the 18 bus toward the Legion of Honor. There, to the left, the Land’s End Trail begins descending toward the sea. It’s a lovely path through rain-forest-type terrain, and then you emerge onto the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean!

Of course, you’re pretty exposed to the elements there, and I ran into a little wind-rain squall along the cliff trails. At that point, there really isn’t any other option but to keep going, so I continued on toward the ruins of the Sutro Baths (great history!), and then The Cliff House.

By the way, the trail’s a beauty, raindrops or not.

San Francisco’s most iconic view was a little elusive on this visit

Theater District

I’ve walked by San Francisco’s theater district many times on my way between Union Square and the hotels and restaurants along O’Farrell Street. I always look wistfully at the Broadway-type productions going on there, but never had the chance to check them out.

As I was planning this trip, I did a quick google search of “things to do in San Francisco” on the weekend of Feb. 4. There, on the list was a production of one of my favorite books ever – “A Thousand Splendid Suns” by Khaled Hosseini, who also wrote “The Kite Runner.” I decided I couldn’t pass it up. The play didn’t disappoint – stunning sets, great acting, and a beautifully told story. The matinee production was definitely a fun and unique way for me to spend my birthday afternoon.

Technically, I wasn’t supposed to take photos in the theater, but I snapped this of the pretty ceiling before the start of the play (and before I knew the no-photo rule )

Sir Francis Drake

To be honest, the Sir Francis Drake Hotel was not a conscious choice for this trip. I booked it through Priceline’s Express Deals, and didn’t know for sure which hotel I would get until after the transaction was final. But it turned out to a lucky move (and a good deal!). I loved the hotel’s elegant lobby, the 20th-floor room I was given, and especially, the Union Square location. I felt like I was close to everything. Muni bus stops were nearby, the theater district was just a few blocks away, and cool shopping was just down the street.

Such a nice welcome from the Sir Francis Drake!

The hotel lobby is splendid

My room was charming, and it had a view!

Loved the view of Union Square from my 20th-floor room

The view from the entrance isn’t bad either

Ferry Building Farmers Market

What can I say? I simply love San Francisco’s Ferry Building. And on Saturdays, when the farmers market is in full swing, I can’t resist visiting. I decided to have brunch there on the morning of my birthday, and I had a hard time choosing: Miso soup, lox and bagel, tamales, or Arab street food? The sight of pitas being freshly grilled on a rounded griddle caught my attention, and I opted for a pita wrap with grilled veggies and herbs. Lovely!

One of the advantages of a rainy day – beautiful puddle reflections

I might be a little obsessed with this building

Scala’s

I indulged for my birthday dinner at Scala’s, the charming bistro located at my hotel. From the warm marinated-olive appetizer to the saffron linguini + clam entré to the luscious chocolate-mousse-and-hazelnut-cookie dessert (complimentary for my birthday), the dinner couldn’t have been better. Oh, and the two glasses of Cabernet helped too!

Cable Cars at night

In my mind, every trip to San Francisco should include a ride on the famed cable cars. OK, I know they’re touristy and crowded, but still! There IS one way to avoid most of the crowds, though – opt for a late-night ride. When I boarded at the corner of Powell and Sutter after my dinner at Scala’s, I was one of only a handful of people riding. And when I returned over Nob Hill at about 10:30 that night, it was just me and two other people. An added bonus: The city lights and steep drop down Powell Street give the night-time ride the feel of of a roller-coaster. Thrilling!

Coming down Powell Street at night – yikes!

Irish coffee at the Buena Vista

I found out when I arrived at the Buena Vista late on a Saturday evening that I was a living San Francisco cliché. I sat down at the bar and ordered an Irish coffee, only to hear everyone around me ordering the same drink. It seems that the historic café near Fisherman’s Wharf is widely known for its signature Irish coffees – dating back to the early 1950s. Still, it WAS a good coffee – and surprisingly boozy!

Ocean Beach

For me, no trip to San Francisco is really complete unless I visit Ocean Beach. And once again, despite the rain, I took a stroll down the boardwalk. When I posted a photo of the scene on Instagram, a follower commented, “But soooo cold! The coldest part of the city.” All I could say was “It speaks to me.”

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/02/18/san-francisco-a-treat-even-in-the-rain/feed/0fullsizernearandfarazdsc05539-1img_0831img_0843dsc05494dsc05480dsc05492dsc05476dsc05469dsc05545screen-shot-2017-02-18-at-11-12-57-amimg_0931dsc05569dsc05571dsc05455dsc05547-1img_1011dsc05520dsc05515dsc05516dsc05567dsc05568dsc05552img_0991DSC05550.jpgfullsizerender5dsc05496dsc05493Yes, we get snow in Arizona, and it’s spectacularhttps://nearandfaraz.com/2017/01/17/yes-we-get-snow-in-arizona-and-its-spectacular/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/01/17/yes-we-get-snow-in-arizona-and-its-spectacular/#respondTue, 17 Jan 2017 00:00:31 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=3440Read More]]>“I had no idea Arizona got any snow!” – It’s a comment I see often when I post snowy photos on Instagram.

And yes, it can be confusing.

Towering saguaro cacti, 115-degree temps, and sunny poolside scenes: These are the images that likely come to mind when most people think of Arizona. But snow? I’ll admit it’s a little counter-intuitive.

But the state is split by elevation. For most parts of the lower-altitude Phoenix and Tucson, snow is almost unheard of. Northern Arizona is a whole different story though. I like to think of it as a hybrid – part desert, part mountain.

When I hear myself explaining the winter-weather scenario to newcomers in my hometown of Prescott, Arizona, I can understand where the confusion comes in: “Well, the winters are pretty mild,” I say. “Depending on the year, we might get a snowstorm or two. But it almost always melts within a few days.”

See what I mean? Lots of caveats.

Still, when we do get snow, it can come down hard. Take this past Christmas Eve. By 2 p.m., the morning’s torrential rain had turned to snow, and all of sudden, the streets, sidewalks, and trees were covered in several inches of snow.

Oh, and the mountains in the surrounding Prescott National Forest? They were transformed into veritable winter playgrounds.

Since the snow is fairly fleeting, Arizonans take advantage in a big way. Any news of snow in the “high country” brings with it a tsunami of Phoenix-area residents looking for a good sledding/skiing/snowshoeing opportunity.

For me, the activity of choice is snow-hiking. I’m not even sure if it’s a thing, but it should be! I simply love tromping along the snow-covered forest trails, where just weeks before I had hiked in warm sunny weather.

I took in several areas in the Prescott/Prescott National Forest area after the Christmas Eve storm, and found plenty to love. Here are some of my favorites:

Yeager Canyon, Mingus Mountain

Located just off Highway 89A between Prescott and Jerome lies the Yeager Canyon Trail – a mountain route that climbs fast, and offers good snow cover and stellar views.

After parking in the small trailhead alongside Highway 89A (about a mile and a half east of the twin power transmission lines that cross the highway), I like to head up Trail 533, to the right. A series of switchbacks takes you through beautiful stands of ponderosa and piñon pines, which, if you’re lucky, will be covered with mounds of snow. On the sunny day I visited, clumps of snow were falling to the ground with soft plops. Gorgeous!

Willow Lake Trail

With easy accessibility along Willow Lake Road, the Willow Lake Loop Trail offers a quick route to the picturesque snow-covered Granite Dells. I like to park in the small dirt trailhead off Willow Lake Road, not far from the Highway 89 roundabout, and head either left or right. Whichever way you choose, you’ll be in the midst of the Dells in no time. Climbing the granite rock formations can be a little slippery after a big snow, but it offers some great views of Willow Lake.

Senator Highway

Popular as a spot for sledding, the Senator Highway area gets busy after a big snowstorm. But keep going south toward the Watershed Trailhead, and you’ll get beyond much of the traffic. Hiking northeast on the Prescott Circle Trail will take you along a ridgeline with great views of Prescott, the upper and lower Goldwater Lake dams, Thumb Butte, and Granite Mountain.

Thumb Butte

There are many trails in the Thumb Butte area, but I decided to drive up Thumb Butte Road – west past the main trailhead parking area, to the spot where the Prescott Circle Trail intersects the road. There, I headed north through the gate for some great views of the back side of the Butte, and then turned back and walked down toward the Miller Creek Trail. I got there a few days after the storm, and the warm weather had already started melting the snow. It was a real treat to see runoff water coursing through the creek.

Probably because Arizona’s snow IS so short-lived, it’s easy to appreciate. So, when it falls, I recommend heading to the mountain trails, and let’s make snow-hiking a thing!

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/01/17/yes-we-get-snow-in-arizona-and-its-spectacular/feed/0dsc04419nearandfarazdsc04239img_0220dsc04404-1dsc04416dsc04391dsc04440dsc04387dsc04377dsc04361dsc04341dsc04353dsc04495dsc04484dsc04527dsc04480dsc04529dsc04544dsc04546gimg_0348Dreaming big for 2017https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/01/16/dreaming-big-for-2017/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2017/01/16/dreaming-big-for-2017/#commentsMon, 16 Jan 2017 05:24:46 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=3543Read More]]>The third Monday of January – it’s that blue time of the year when I come to terms with a few things: the Christmas tree MUST come down; the sun doesn’t ALWAYS shine in Arizona; and I NEED to plan some adventures.

Last year at this time, I took advantage of mid-January – officially the bluest time of the year – to set some travel goals. Not only did it get me through my least favorite month, but it served as a springboard for some truly awesome trips.

At the time, I was about eight months into my travel and hiking blog, and I had some big plans for the coming year.

Now, it’s time to see how I did on my list of travel resolutions of 2016, and to set some new ones for 2017.

A quick rundown of my old list:

First up was a solo trip to a foreign country – check. OK, I didn’t make it to Europe as I hoped, but I did take an amazing solo trip into Canada. Waterton Lakes National Park turned out to be a splendid detour on my multi-state/province road trip in July 2016. So much so that I’m hoping to return to more Canadian National Parks this year for that country’s 150th birthday. (More on that in my 2017 goals).

Other 2016 successes:

I continued my education in blogging in a big way in March 2016, when I traveled to Irvine, California, for a Women in Travel Summit (WITS) conference. I learned so much about writing, pitching, and social media, and I also got in a fun beach get-away with a good friend. Win, win, win!

Newport Beach, California

I also took advantage of long weekends to go on shorter trips throughout the Southwest – albeit not to the level I had hoped. But I did take a day trip to Tuba City on the Navajo Reservation, several visits to Sedona, a picturesque stop at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and a couple of jaunts to the beautiful Verde Valley.

Tuba City, Arizona – Flea Market

Grand Canyon South Rim

Sedona, Arizona Red Rock Country

I succeeded in reaching out a couple of times for collaborations with fellow bloggers – one that focused on beautiful cliffs (the stunning Vermilion Cliffs near Page, Arizona), and another on surreal spots (the incomparable Ribbon Falls in the Grand Canyon).

One less tangible success: Be more in the moment when I travel. I made it a point to focus on this one while I was on the road, and I think that’s what matters!

Sadly, I had a few fails as well: I didn’t get to a cooking class in a foreign destination; I didn’t really learn how to take advantage of my airline points; and I didn’t make it to Norway to reconnect with my long-lost Norwegian cousins. One good thing about failing at something, though, is that I can simply add it to my list for next year.

So here goes on my new goals (dreams?) for 2017:

1.

Wish Canada a happy 150th! And what better way to do that than by visiting as many national parks north of the border as possible? On my list of possibilities: Banff, Jasper, and Wapusk. We’ll see how far I go!

2.

Europe, here I come. Well, not officially, but I have my fingers crossed. This is definitely wish-list territory, but I’m thinking a road trip through the Scottish Highlands (looking at you, Outlander!), and a trip to Paris to see if the City of Lights can win me over.

3.

Blogging 201. I’m hoping to make it to the WITS conference again – this time in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. While I’m in the area, I’m also planning to take in one of America’s great cities, Chicago. It’s been on my must-list forever, and this might just be my chance!

4.

Carry on my little tradition of treating myself with a birthday trip: This year, a February solo trip to another great U.S. city, San Francisco. Hiking Land’s End, eating cioppino, and seeing a theater production of Khaled Hosseini’s “A Thousand Splendid Suns” – what could be better?

5.

Take on Texas I HAVE been to Texas before, but just barely. And I realize a drive-through in the panhandle probably doesn’t really count. This year, though, my son and daughter-in-law are moving to Austin, so I’m hoping to go all in on the Lone Star State. Along with Austin, maybe Corpus Christi and San Antonio?

6.

Get comfy on the rails. I’ve known it for a long time: I love to travel by train. In 2016, I took a wonderful Amtrak trip from Seattle to Vancouver, British Columbia, and it reminded me of how relaxing train travel can be. I need to do more of that!

7.

Bonus (seriously wish-list territory): Cuba. I’m sure it’s on many travel bucket lists this year, and I’m following the crowd. Take me to Havana!

Considering the surroundings, our mutual effusiveness didn’t seem strange in the least. At that moment, we were passing through a meadow bordered on each side by hundreds of beargrass blooms. The spiky white flowers cascaded down the valley on one side and up the mountain slope on the other. For a moment, I felt transported to a 3-D scene from “Avatar.”

We weren’t the only happy hikers. Although I passed by a few who were struggling with the fairly strenuous hike, most of the people I encountered appeared a little astonished at their good fortune.

It was my first trip to Glacier National Park, and to say I was impressed with the hiking trails is a bit of an understatement. I ended up doing the Iceberg Lake Trail twice, and I enjoyed it even more the second day.

The great views just didn’t stop. After a steep section just above the trailhead at the Swiftcurrent Lodge, the trail opens up with startlingly close-up views of nearby peaks, Grinnell, Swiftcurrent, and Wilbur. Wildflowers of all hues vie for attention. Along its nearly five-mile route, the trail transitions from sweeping views to dense vegetation, and back to open views again.

The trail was fairly busy on the days I hiked, but I still felt a little isolated through the forested areas – especially considering the warnings I had heard about the Iceberg route being prime bear country. Most hikers were wearing bells to ward off the bears, and I took to clapping loudly through the treed areas.

I didn’t spot any bears along the way, although other hikers pointed out moose, mountain goats, and grouse in the distance.

About halfway along the route, the trail crosses the beautiful Ptarmigan waterfall – a lovely spot to stop for a rest – and soon after, the fields of beargrass come into view.

At just under five miles, the trail rises toward the snow-covered cirque that surrounds Iceberg Lake. After passing over a ridge, the lake comes into view. When I visited in mid-July, small bergs of ice floated on the surface – a lovely contrast to the blue-tinted water from the glacier. I arrived at about noon, and the boulders around the lake were fairly crowded with hikers eating their lunches.

The park offers ranger-led hikes to Iceberg Lake most summer days, and I had intended to join one of those groups. But after arriving a little late on the first morning, I set out on my own, and I thoroughly enjoyed the solo hike.

The trail is rated as strenuous, and there are sections that are steep. Overall, it climbs about 1,275 feet. And at nearly 10 miles round-trip, the route is fairly long. But in terms of payoff vs. effort, I would say Iceberg Trail is a splendid bargain.

Have you heard the bit about the rock and the moss, and how they’re “lichen” their relationship?

“Jammer” Carl has, and he rocked that joke (pardon the pun, but I think Carl would be proud) and a whole lot of others all the way over the Going to the Sun Road.

The jokes and puns were nonstop on my recent Red Bus Tour through Glacier National Park in Montana. I found it charming – just one sweet aspect of the Western Alpine tour I took from Glacier National Park’s Lake McDonald Valley to Logan Pass, and back again.

First off, let’s talk about the buses themselves. The 17-seat vintage vehicles are a sight to behold. Built in the 1930s, the buses have since been completely refurbished, and offer a deluxe way to view the stunning glacier terrain.

Our driver Carl (one of the famed “Jammers” – so nicknamed because they once could be heard jamming the gears on the buses’ original standard transmissions) liked to point to the “paparazzi” taking photos of themselves in front our bus. It was true: I never had so many strangers point a camera my way before as I did while sitting in the red bus.

And then there is the scenery. The striking red buses were eclipsed only by the views rolling past our windows. When I visited, in mid-July, the glacier-clad mountains were surely at their best. Wildflowers edged the roads; the mountainsides were a vivid green; and rivers and waterfalls were cascading through the valleys.

Unlike many scenic bus tours, the Red Bus Tours don’t depend on just passenger-side windows for viewing. The buses are designed with rollback roofs, which allowed for a number of “groundhog” moments – when the passengers were allowed to stand up in our seats to get a better view and take photos. With the mountains soaring all around, it really did offer a unique perspective. Luckily, we had a beautiful sunny day, and the ride was open-air.

And we weren’t left to guess the names, history, and folklore of the territory we were passing through. Carl’s running monologue wasn’t just jokes and puns; he also thoroughly explained how the Going to the Sun Road came to be, its beauties, and its challenges.

We made several stops at pretty spots along the road. During our 20-minute stop at Logan Pass, I headed down the nearby Highline Trail for a bit, and took in some of the stunning scenery heading into that iconic hike. We also stopped at the Lake McDonald Lodge – a truly lovely hotel right on the lake.

Highline trail – Going to the Sun Road

Lake McDonald Lodge

The Red Bus Tours offer many different itineraries – starting from locations throughout the east and west sides of the park. The tour I chose left from the Lake McDonald area on the west side of the park and followed the Going to the Sun Road to the summit at Logan Pass, before returning to the Apgar Visitor Center. It turned out to be the perfect choice for an introduction on my first day in the park.

While planning my trip, I had read varying opinions about whether to take a Red Bus Tour, or simply drive the Glacier roads on your own. There were comments from people who were adamant that touring just wasn’t their style, and others who said the tours were the only way to go on the sometimes-scary mountain road.

What I learned from my experience in Glacier is that sometimes, it’s not a matter of “either/or,” but rather, “a little of each.”

After taking the four-hour Western Alpine tour that first day, I returned to the Going to the Sun Road the next day in my car, and drove to Logan Pass from the eastern side of the park. It’s true, I was able to stop when I wanted, and that offered a couple of leisurely photo opportunities.

Wild Goose Island – Going to the Sun Road

But I also loved the freedom of the previous day, when I could gaze at the passing scenery without worrying about traffic. For my part, I see a Red Bus Tour as an experience unique to Glacier. And by opting for a four-hour tour instead of a daylong excursion, I was able to get a taste of touring in style, but still have time for plenty of exploring and hiking on my own.

A tip: I realize that only one person out of the 17 passengers can ride in the front seat with the driver, but if you can be that one person, jump at the chance! I was lucky to be a solo traveler among mostly family groups, so I was the logical one to sit up front. It was great having not only the side and roof views, but the front window as well.

The Red Bus Tours range in price from about $40 to $98, depending on duration and location (children are about half that price). My tour was somewhere in the middle – at $58. Well worth it for the views, the entertainment, and the insights.

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/25/one-sweet-ride/feed/0DSC00758nearandfarazFullSizeRender(4) copyDSC00810DSC00807DSC00776FullSizeRender(5) copyDSC00818DSC00742DSC00762DSC00786DSC00792DSC00735DSC00740DSC00879DSC00873IMG_5764gIMG_7860Western North Dakota: More than just oil wellshttps://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/23/western-north-dakota-more-than-just-oil-wells/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/23/western-north-dakota-more-than-just-oil-wells/#commentsTue, 23 Aug 2016 08:37:24 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=3172Read More]]>For the past decade or so, it seems, each time I’ve mentioned my home state of North Dakota, I’ve gotten the same response, “Ah, oilfield country.”

An improvement, perhaps, over the previous “Oh, don’t you just love that movie, ‘Fargo?’” but still. It made me wonder if oil activity is what truly characterizes western North Dakota these days.

So, as I was planning my recent road trip to North Dakota, I decided to find out for myself. I hadn’t been back to the western half of the state in years, and I was curious about whether the oil industry had taken a toll on the spectacular scenery I remembered.

In a nutshell: Sure, there is still plenty of oilfield activity – big rigs barreling down the roads; construction everywhere; and a mind-boggling number of oil wells pumping away.

But look beyond that, and it’s easy to spot the beauty as well: The rugged bluffs of the Little Missouri River valley; the remote badland terrain of Theodore Roosevelt National Park’ North Unit; and a triangle of fascinating historic sites depicting the state’s fur-trade culture of the 1800s and the conflict between the U.S. Army and Lakota Sioux Tribe.

As I set out to explore northwest North Dakota’s Bakken region, I was struck over and over by the sheer vastness. Mileage between towns and attractions is measured in the 50-, 75-, 100-mile range. And except for truck traffic, it seemed at times that I was the only traveler around.

Little Missouri River country

First on my mission was Little Missouri State Park. Even though I had lived nearby years ago, I had never visited the park. I remembered the long, steep descent into the valley along Highway 22, and I was eager to check out some of the area’s hiking trails.

Located 17 miles north of the small town of Killdeer, the state park was virtually deserted on the July day I visited. At the park entrance, I tracked down the friendly ranger, who invited me into the log-cabin office/living quarters and provided a map and directions to the nearest hiking trail.

From the trailhead, the route began dropping almost immediately toward the riverbed. Bordered in places by tangles of thistles, chokecherry bushes, and wildflowers, the trail also wound through stark, sandy land formations rutted with water tracks. Dragon flies flitted by, and the sun beat down – all making for a unique hiking experience.

The park features nicely developed camping areas and horseback riding, and I found myself wishing I had allotted more time to explore deeper into the river valley.

Theodore Roosevelt’s stomping ground

The next day, I was bound for the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park – reputedly one of the loveliest sections of North Dakota’s badlands. Located about 50 miles north of Interstate 94 (from Belfield on Highway 85), the park is fairly remote. Still, there were plenty of other visitors – motorcyclists, out-of-state tourists, and family groups.

No sooner had I entered the park than I spotted a buffalo, calming grazing alongside the park road – seemingly oblivious to the cars creeping slowly by and people snapping photos.

I loved the ease and accessibility of the 14-mile loop road. There were plenty of scenic stops along the way, including the Riverbend Overlook – among the most photographed spots in the state, according to the park ranger at the entrance. I headed off the beaten track to get a slightly different perspective of the 1930s-era stone overlook shelter. From every vantage point, the views of the river were sweeping and spectacular.

At the Oxbow Overlook a few miles down the road, I ventured out on the trail, and ended up at Sperati Point, about a mile in. The route offered classic badland scenery – sprawling grasslands giving way to abrupt drop-offs – and the point was directly above the oxbox in the river.

Trading post shenanigans

Next on my itinerary were the three historic sites in the Williston area: Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site; Fort Buford State Historic Site; and the Missouri-Yellowstone Confluence Interpretive Center. The three sites are within a few miles of one another, and all feature fascinating history.

Fort Union, which served as a bustling trading post for furs and other goods throughout the mid-1800s, consists of a beautifully restored fort and museum. The ranger at the museum told me the 1998 restoration built upon the foundation remains of the original trading post. Enclosed in a large wooden fort, the site houses re-enactors and facsimiles of original buildings.

Fort Buford, on the other hand, boasts an actual building that housed officers in the U.S. Army’s frontier battle with native Indian tribes. The fort’s most notable historic event: The surrender of Sioux leader Sitting Bull in 1881.

The fort sits just a half-mile from the confluence of two great rivers – the Missouri and the Yellowstone. A full-service interpretive center offers a wealth of information about the evolution of the area, including the 1805 and 1806 visits by explorers Lewis and Clark.

The confluence provides plenty of spots to view the two rivers coming together. Bordered by lushly green foliage, the two rivers make quite a sight as they converge to continue on to the east as the Missouri.

For anyone with time to spare after taking in those significant sites, I suggest a bonus detour: The Fairview Bridge and Cartwright Tunnel located along the Yellowstone River near the North Dakota/Montana border. The short section of rails-to-trail route takes you over the old lift bridge, which has the distinction of having been used just once – during its test run – before it became obsolete.

Tucked away as they are in the midst of oilfield country, the region’s natural and historic gems could easily be overlooked. But for me they confirmed: Western North Dakota is still a lot more than just oilfields.

]]>https://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/23/western-north-dakota-more-than-just-oil-wells/feed/4DSC01430nearandfarazDSC01588FullSizeRender(4)DSC01384DSC01379DSC01322DSC01361DSC01371DSC01406DSC01433DSC01434DSC01478DSC01456DSC01614DSC01626DSC01643DSC01645DSC01644DSC01651DSC01584DSC01537DSC01570DSC01469North Dakota through new eyeshttps://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/23/north-dakota-through-new-eyes/
https://nearandfaraz.com/2016/08/23/north-dakota-through-new-eyes/#commentsTue, 23 Aug 2016 03:42:30 +0000http://nearandfaraz.com/?p=3071Read More]]>Growing up in North Dakota, I can’t say that I truly appreciated the beauty of the prairie.

Oh, I loved being outdoors, and I regularly explored the acreage of my family’s farm. But to say it was beautiful? I’m afraid I didn’t go there. “So flat.” “No forests.” “Hardly any rivers.” “How far is the nearest beach?” – These were among the laments of my growing-up years.

As I matured, of course, I came to realize the truth of that old adage: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And when it comes to the prairie, I can now say that I – the beholder – find a wealth of things to appreciate.

It’s been 30 years since I have lived in North Dakota, and although I’ve visited from time to time, those trips were usually more about seeing family than exploring the countryside.

So, as my 40th high school reunion was approaching this summer, I decided to make my return a road trip, with plenty of time to revel in the things I so blithely overlooked as a child and young adult.

And what I found was as legendary as the state motto claims. Here are a few of my (re)discoveries:

The farm landscapes

Grain fields were just starting to ripen at the time of my mid-July visit. The prairie grasses were a rolling sea of green-gold. Even the thistles – the nemesis of my childhood – were blooming a vibrant lavender.

A jaunt through time

Once a thriving little village with a grocery store, a post office, a bar, an elementary school, and a couple of churches, my old hometown of Alfred is now mostly deserted streets with a church, a scattering of homes, and a handful of residents. Even so, it’s pure pleasure to visit. Even the cemetery at the edge of town appeared more peaceful than ominous.

The skyscraper of the prairie

As I headed west, I made a quick stop at the state capitol in Bismarck – my place of employment one especially frigid winter in the 1980s. On this warm July day, though, the site was in its summer glory, with the massive green lawn and colorful petunias framing the 21-story tower. Impressive!

The back roads

Everywhere I went in the state, my eyes gravitated to the country roads – some gravely and straight, some red and twisty. I loved them all.

The bridges

This one took me by surprise. I don’t remember being particularly fascinated by old bridges before. But I crossed some great ones in North Dakota, and I couldn’t help but stop and marvel.

The berries

Regardless of where I went, it seemed, I found chokecherry bushes bearing fruit. I found out later that the chokecherry is North Dakota’s state fruit, and I can see why. In all stages of ripeness, the berries are gorgeous. I never did acquire a taste for the tart fruit as a kid – even dressed up as jelly – but I can now appreciate the pretty clusters of glossy berries.

The German food

When my son agreed to join me on my trip to North Dakota, it was on one condition: That we would do a veritable dough tour – sampling as much of the food common among the Germans from Russia of southcentral North Dakota as humanly possible. That meant knoephla and sauerkraut, cheese buttons, fleischkueckle, and knoephla soup. Luckily, we arrived in the Bismarck/Mandan area at dinnertime, and we were able to get to both Kroll’s Diner and Frieds Family Restaurant – both of which served up some pretty epic North Dakota comfort food. (Photos courtesy of my son, @cwbarks )

And of course, the people

Even though the sights were important, this trip was once again about the people. I was able to reconnect with dozens of cousins, old friends, former coworkers, my mom, sister, son, and of course, my classmates from Gackle High School, class of 1976. Even though I had pledged to view the state with new eyes, some things don’t change.