Sometimes they get on there pretty tight. Doesn't help that the shaft wants to turn also. Trick a shop taught me a while ago was to put a board(2x4) between the prop and the hull so the prop/shaft can't turn. Then get a good sized breaker bar on it and you should be able to get it.

Yeah you might get a cheater (a pipe that fits over your socket wrench) that is 4, 5 or 6 feet long. Be prepared to land on your tailbone when the nut breaks loose. You will be tensed like you're doing the mightiest deadlift in your life ... and then ... BOOM , ... all of the resisting force is instantly gone.

The manufacturer does not recommend removing the coupler since it is pressed on and balanced properly from the factory. I used to work at a Supra/Moomba dealership and you can remove the shaft without removing the coupler. You have to remove the prop, unbolt the vdrive, unbolt the strut, and remove the rear floor panel and then the shaft will slide out over the top of the gas tank.

The manufacturer does not recommend removing the coupler since it is pressed on and balanced properly from the factory. I used to work at a Supra/Moomba dealership and you can remove the shaft without removing the coupler. You have to remove the prop, unbolt the vdrive, unbolt the strut, and remove the rear floor panel and then the shaft will slide out over the top of the gas tank.

Therefore on the direct drive boats you have to remove the engine with transmission. OK? And NEVER do order the shaft only. Even if it goes like separate part.
Is propeller balanced with drive shaft assy also?

My remarks are in error. I was referring to how much force I had to apply to get the prop puller to loosen the prop. And perhaps you already know, but you just loosen the nut and leave it on (to keep the prop from falling to the ground ... you won't be around to catch ... you might be rolling on the ground like you're on fire).