WHATS26_021_RAD.jpg
For the What's New column: Cheese slicing gadget. Note the dial on top that tells how thick the slices are.
Photo taken on 7/20/06, in San Francisco, CA.
(Katy Raddatz/The S.F.Chronicle)
** Mandatory credit for photographer and the San Francisco Chronicle/ -Mags out less

WHATS26_021_RAD.jpg
For the What's New column: Cheese slicing gadget. Note the dial on top that tells how thick the slices are.
Photo taken on 7/20/06, in San Francisco, CA.
(Katy Raddatz/The S.F.Chronicle) ... more

Photo: Katy Raddatz

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WINE COUNTRY OPENINGS /

Keller's 'temporary' Ad Hoc

Thomas Keller's eagerly awaited temporary restaurant, Ad Hoc, opened on Saturday in Yountville in the old Wine Garden spot.

The cuisine: Home-style American, Keller style: one four-course daily changing menu for $45. Family-style earthenware platters come with perfect amounts to share. The first night boasted an heirloom tomato salad fresh from the French Laundry garden and made-that-morning mozzarella; tri-tip smothered with a mix of olive oil-poached mushrooms served with corn on the cob and roasted piquillo peppers; a cheese course with Humboldt Fog, jewel-ripe figs and Marshall Farms honey; shortcakes with a bowl of stem-on strawberries and whipped vanilla bean cream.

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The team: Thomas Keller, who also owns nearby French Laundry, Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. He and Bouchon chef Jeffrey Cerciello will oversee the kitchen, putting out soulful renditions of favorite childhood classics, such as beef stroganoff, fried chicken and pot roast.

Cindy Pawlcyn is expanding her Wine Country mini-restaurant empire, with a new seafood spot in the old Pinot Blanc space on Highway 29.

The cuisine: Though the restaurant boasts about "West Coast seafood," the menu take cues from all over the world, including miso-marinated black cod, a French-inspired bourride and an upscale rendition of the all-American tuna melt. A long sushi menu features an extensive selection of rolls and nigiri.

The team: This is the third restaurant for Pawlcyn, who also owns Mustards Grill, down the road in Yountville, and Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, also in St. Helena. Sushi chef Ken Tominaga (from Hana) presides over the sushi bar.

The vibe: With soaring ceilings, the vast dining room is awash in white, with dark wood booths and yellow and blue pillows punctuating the bare-bones color scheme. A 16-seat sushi bar dominates one side of the room, and huge picture windows look out onto a yet-unplanted apple tree grove. A lush patio is also in the works.

Zagat Survey voters have again crowned Gary Danko the most popular restaurant in the Bay Area, according to the 2007 edition of the guidebook just out this week.

And when it comes to the best food, Gary Danko tied with the French Laundry, scoring 29 out of a possible 30 points in the unscientific survey of 7,476 Bay Area diners. Just one point behind were Cyrus, Chez Panisse, Marinus (Carmel Valley) and Kaygetsu (Palo Alto).

On the popularity list, Danko came in first ahead of Boulevard, Slanted Door, French Laundry and Michael Mina. New to the top 10 was Kokkari Estiatorio, while Chez Panisse dropped from sixth to 10th and Chez Panisse Cafe dropped from fifth to 11th.

Ame (San Francisco) and Redd (Yountville), were the top-ranked new restaurants.

Bay Area diners surveyed eat an average of 3.2 meals out a week, just under Zagat's national average. Their biggest gripe is service, picked by 66 percent -- and they show it in their tipping, which at 18.4 percent is tied with Los Angeles as the worst among Zagat survey areas.

The 2007 San Francisco Bay Area Restaurants guide is $13.95 at bookstores or through zagat.com. -- Carol Ness

The new Dial-N-Slice cheese slicer is now available from Zyliss, the Swiss company that manufactures sleek and ergonomic kitchen tools.

An adjustable dial embedded in the handle allows the user to choose one of five different thickness options, making uniform slices every time. And by simply turning the tool to a vertical position, the stainless-steel edge can be used for cutting larger pieces of cheese effortlessly.

It works especially well on hard cheeses.

The Zyliss Dial-N-Slice cheese slicer retails for $12.99 and is available at a variety of retail stores including Bed Bath & Beyond, Whole Foods and Sur La Table.