Raising Riesling

[an error occurred while processing this directive]Johannes Leitz of the Josef Leitz Winery is one of the superstars of Germany's Rheingau wine region. Based in Rüdesheim, a charming town of 10,000, Leitz is known for his complex, naturally made wines.

According to him, the secret of German Riesling is the soil's quartz and slate. Over time, the minerals give the wines their distinctive flavors of rosewater, litchi and apricot. Heinrich Breuer of Georg Breuer Winery also makes outstanding wines the natural way. He eschews temperature control because this technique promotes fruitier wines: "It's as if your children were brought up with no fresh air."...