Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meeul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meeul to Avalon Springs.

+

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

+

=Fees, Permits, Etc=

=Fees, Permits, Etc=

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

+

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =

= Bad Kloof Climbing Map =

Line 29:

Line 32:

−

= Crags in Bad Kloof =

+

== The Penthouse ==

+

As seen from upriver looking downriver.

+

[[File:Waterworld_3.jpg|800px]]

−

== The Penthouse ==

+

The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

+

|-

+

|#

+

|ROUTE NAME / AREA

+

|GRADE

+

|# BOLTS

+

|RATING

+

|BOLTING/OPENED INFO

+

|DESCRIPTION

+

|-

+

|1.

+

|<Project>

+

|

+

|

+

|

+

|BB. C Martinengo.

+

|

+

|-

+

|2.

+

|Pet of the Month

+

|27/7b+

+

|5 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. J Samson. 1997.

+

|

+

|-

+

|3.

+

|Groping in the Dark

+

|24/7a

+

|4 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. G Holwill. 1997.

+

|

+

|}

Line 39:

Line 78:

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

−

*'''Waterworld History'''

+

'''Waterworld History'''

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.

Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.

In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.

In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.

In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

−

[[Image:waterworld_topo_image.jpg|Waterworld Topo]]

+

[[File:Waterworld_4.jpg|800px]]

−

*'''WaterworldRoute List'''

+

Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 91:

Line 129:

|-

|-

|5.

|5.

−

|Simply Irresistable

+

|Simply Irresistible

|27/7b+

|27/7b+

|5 Bolts

|5 Bolts

Line 98:

Line 136:

|(Branches left)

|(Branches left)

|-

|-

−

|5.b

+

|6.

|The Singularity

|The Singularity

|29/7c+

|29/7c+

Line 106:

Line 144:

|(veers right)

|(veers right)

|-

|-

−

|6.

+

|7.

|Firestarter!

|Firestarter!

|29/7c+

|29/7c+

Line 114:

Line 152:

|

|

|-

|-

−

|7.

+

|8.

|My Route Down By The River

|My Route Down By The River

|31/8a+

|31/8a+

Line 122:

Line 160:

|

|

|-

|-

−

|8.

+

|9.

|Chongalolo

|Chongalolo

−

|Project

+

|33/8b+ (proposed)

|

|

|

|

−

|BB: Matt Bush.

+

|BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013

|

|

|-

|-

−

|9.

+

|10.

|Twist And Crawl

|Twist And Crawl

|28/7c

|28/7c

Line 138:

Line 176:

|

|

|-

|-

−

|10.

+

|11.

|The Mission

|The Mission

|24/7a

|24/7a

Line 146:

Line 184:

|This is the original route at Waterworld.

|This is the original route at Waterworld.

|-

|-

−

|11.

+

|12.

|Sidewinder

|Sidewinder

|24/7a

|24/7a

Line 154:

Line 192:

|

|

|-

|-

−

|12.

+

|13.

|Creepy Crawly

|Creepy Crawly

|20/6a+

|20/6a+

Line 162:

Line 200:

|

|

|}

|}

−

== Peanut Gallery ==

== Peanut Gallery ==

+

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.

+

[[File:Peanut_b.JPG|600px]]

−

*'''Peanut Gallery Route List'''

+

Routes LEFT to Right.

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags. Routes LEFT to Right.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 195:

Line 233:

|-

|-

|3.

|3.

−

| <unknown>

+

|Duende

−

|31/8a+

+

|32/8b

|

|

|

|

−

|FA. <unknown>

+

|FA. Matt Bush.

|

|

|}

|}

Line 205:

Line 243:

== Lion Said ==

== Lion Said ==

+

As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

−

*'''Lion Said Route List'''

+

Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' From Left to Right. As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

+

−

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 261:

Line 298:

−

== Sloth ==

+

== Sloth Crag ==

+

Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

+

|-

+

|#

+

|ROUTE NAME / AREA

+

|GRADE

+

|# BOLTS

+

|RATING

+

|BOLTING/OPENED INFO

+

|DESCRIPTION

+

|-

+

|1.

+

|Sunshine Reggae

+

|15/5b

+

|9 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. S Brown. 2002.

+

|P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.

Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

−

[[File:Supertubes.jpg||Supertubes Crag in Badkloof, Montagu]]

+

[[File:Supertubes1.JPG|800px]]

−

+

−

*'''Supertubes Route List'''

+

Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 372:

Line 497:

|-

|-

|12.

|12.

−

|Wipe Out

+

|Wipe-Out

−

|30/8a

+

|31/8a+

|5 Bolts

|5 Bolts

|

|

Line 412:

Line 537:

== Pipeline ==

== Pipeline ==

−

+

There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.

−

*'''Pipeline Route List'''

+

Routes LEFT to Right.

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' There are only 4 VERY HARD routes here. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. There are 2 abseil bolts to get down. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end. Routes LEFT to Right.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 426:

Line 550:

|-

|-

|1.

|1.

−

| <Open Project>

+

|Aura

−

|

+

|32/8b

−

|

+

|? Bolts

−

|

+

|

|

+

|BB by Guy Holwill in 1996. FA. Matt Bush 2013.

|

|

|-

|-

|2.

|2.

−

| <Open Project>

+

|Miss Behaving

−

|

+

|33/8b+

−

|

+

|? Bolts

−

|

+

−

|

+

|

|

+

|BB by Sean Maasch in 1996. FA. Sasha DiGiulian 2013.

+

||

|-

|-

|3.

|3.

Line 459:

Line 583:

−

== South Park ==

+

<gallery>

+

<!-- Place any pictures from this crag below. Add a picture by typing File:imagename.extension -->

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes LEFT to Right. Small crag right of The Swamp.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 779:

Line 909:

== Uriah Heep ==

== Uriah Heep ==

−

+

Uriah Heep Routes from Left to Right

−

*'''Uriah Heep Route List'''

+

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' Routes from Left to Right

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 859:

Line 987:

== The Arete ==

== The Arete ==

−

*'''The Arete Route List'''

+

On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' On riverside about 50m from Uriah Heep.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 874:

Line 1,001:

|Savage Me

|Savage Me

|24/7a

|24/7a

+

|6 Bolts

|

|

|FA. S Downing. 1994

|FA. S Downing. 1994

Line 879:

Line 1,007:

|}

|}

−

== Berlin Wall ==

−

*'''Berlin Wall Route List'''

+

== Berlin Wall ==

−

'''{{PAGENAME}}''' This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs. Routes from LEFT to right.

+

This crag always is in the shade. You will see it from Uriah Heap when entering from Die Ou Meeul or opposite to Jurassic park when entering from Avalon springs.

+

Berlin Wall Routes from LEFT to right.

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

|-

|-

Line 950:

Line 1,078:

|BB. Stuart Brown

|BB. Stuart Brown

|}

|}

+

== Worlds Apart ==

== Worlds Apart ==

+

Overhanging, 5 min walk from Avalon Springs, Morning Shade.

−

== Jurrasic Park ==

+

Worlds Apart Routes from LEFT to right.

+

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"

+

|-

+

|#

+

|ROUTE NAME / AREA

+

|GRADE

+

|# BOLTS

+

|RATING

+

|BOLTING/OPENED INFO

+

|DESCRIPTION

+

|-

+

|1.

+

|Reflections

+

|25/7a+

+

|6 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. R Suter. 1995

+

|

+

|-

+

|2.

+

|Project

+

|

+

|

+

|

+

|BB. R Suter

+

|

+

|-

+

|3.

+

|Delete Button

+

|26/7b

+

|6 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. J Colenso. 1993

+

|

+

|-

+

|4.

+

|Yankee Rose

+

|29/7c+

+

|9 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. J Colenso. 1992

+

|

+

|-

+

|5.

+

|Voices

+

|24/7a

+

|4 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. J Colenso. 1991.

+

|

+

|-

+

|6.

+

|Daze of Thunder

+

|28/7c

+

|7 Bolts

+

|

+

|FA. G Holwill. 1991.

+

|

+

|-

+

|7.

+

|Rise of the Machines/ Natures Way Project.

+

|32/8b

+

|7 Bolts

+

|

+

|<Open>

+

|ROTM opened (C Martinengo) on glue holds that have subsequently perished.

How to get there

Park at Montagu Mountain Reserve office aka Die Ou Meul and walk into the crags by crossing a wooden bridge behind the mill. The Kloof can also be entered from the back at Avalon Springs. The wiki runs from Die Ou Meul to Avalon Springs.

Fees, Permits, Etc

Date Feb,2012: There is a R10 entry fee to walk into the kloof. A yearly permit can also be purchased from the Montagu Mountain Reserve office.

The Penthouse

The Penthouse Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

<Project>

BB. C Martinengo.

2.

Pet of the Month

27/7b+

5 Bolts

FA. J Samson. 1997.

3.

Groping in the Dark

24/7a

4 Bolts

FA. G Holwill. 1997.

Waterworld

Overhanging, 10 minute flat walk upriver from Die Ou Meeul.

Waterworld History
Ed Feb bolted the The Mission in 1996 and this was the only route at Waterworld until a huge flood cleared out Bad Kloof of all the reeds. Waterworld then became easily accessible. Stuart Brown then put a digger into the kloof and built up the beachy base and bolted the great routes that are there today. Note: We now know that We are unable to put a digger into the Kloof to rebuild the base without an environmental impact assessment.
In June 2011, another big flood washed away the base of the crag and made it entirely unclimbable.
In October 2012, another flood redeposited enough sand to create a new base! In November we re-routed the river and Waterworld is now back. (see article: http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/11/montagu-waterworld-climbable-again/)

Waterworld Routes from the far LEFT of the crag towards the right (i.e. back towards the car park)

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Monkey See Monkey Do

19/6a/6a+

8 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2009.

2.

Arendsig

18/6a

8 Bolts

*****

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.

3.

Walk On By

23/6c+

8 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Regula Brown. 2007.

4.

Some Would Say

26/7b

7 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Ebert Nel. 2013.

5.

Simply Irresistible

27/7b+

5 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2007.

(Branches left)

6.

The Singularity

29/7c+

5 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA Stuart Brown 2010

(veers right)

7.

Firestarter!

29/7c+

9 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

8.

My Route Down By The River

31/8a+

10 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

9.

Chongalolo

33/8b+ (proposed)

BB: Matt Bush. FA Cody Roth. 2013

10.

Twist And Crawl

28/7c

12 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Christo van Zyl. 2009.

11.

The Mission

24/7a

5 Bolts

BB: Ed February. FA. Ed February. 1996.

This is the original route at Waterworld.

12.

Sidewinder

24/7a

6 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

13.

Creepy Crawly

20/6a+

6 Bolts

BB: Stuart Brown. FA. Stuart Brown. 2009.

Peanut Gallery

Obvious roof between Waterworld and Sloth crags.

Routes LEFT to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Good Day for Basketball

22/6c

4 Bolts

FA. R Holwill. 1997.

2.

Finding Ningo

27/7b+

5 Bolts

FA. C Martinengo. 2004.

3.

Duende

32/8b

FA. Matt Bush.

Lion Said

As you are walking towards Supertubes, Lion Said is the smallish, sort stack on the left side of the kloof before you cross over the stream. It is directly opposite Sloth. All day shade.

Lion Said Routes From Left to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Short Cut

21/6b+

3 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

2.

Short, Sharp, Shock!

23/6c+

3 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

3.

Come Short

25/7a+

3 Bolts

BB. S Brown. FA. J Temple-Forbes. 2002.

4.

Hello Aloe

15/ 5b

13 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

5.

Devil Speak

21/6b+

9 Bolts

FA. K Schumann. 1998.

Sloth Crag

Sloth Crag Routes from Left to Right

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Sunshine Reggae

15/5b

9 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

P1: 20m 15 [7B]; P2: 20m 14 [9B]. Ab down left chains for middle stance OR Ab down right chains 40m to ground.

2.

One For The Money

17/5c

5 Bolts

FA. S Brown 2002.

3.

Rattle and Hum

24/7a

5 bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

4.

Beautiful Day

25/7a+

5 Bolts

FA. J Orton. 2002

5.

Sloth

25/7a+

5 Bolts

FA. J Samson. 1996

6.

If I Go It will Be Double

24/7a

14 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

If I Stay There Will Be Trouble 23 [9 Bolts] ends at mid chains.

7.

Throw The Chicken

9/4

5 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002.

8.

Mediocre Youth

21/6b+

4 Bolts

FA. M Smigelskis

9.

Two For The Show

17/5c

5 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2002

10.

Vision Thing

23/6c+

12 Bolts

FA. S Brown. 2003

Supertubes

Overhanging Crag, 10 minute flat walk, Morning Shade & Late Afternoon Shade, Child friendly base
Supertubes (aka The Supertubes) is one of the most popular crags in Montagu. The best routes are very overhanging and powerful. The base is flat and very sandy (so bring a rope mat). This is a very nice spectators crag and very child friendly.

Supertubes Routes from Left to Right.

#

ROUTE NAME / AREA

GRADE

# BOLTS

RATING

BOLTING/OPENED INFO

DESCRIPTION

1.

Wax my Gun and have some Fun

21/6b+

6 Bolts

FA. T Hyde. 1999.

2.

The Dumper

15/5b

7 Bolts

FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.

3.

Beach Break

19/6a+

7 Bolts

FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.

4.

Whoa She Poopie

29/7c+

10 Bolts

BB. Sean Maasch. FA. Justin Hawkins. 1998.

5.

Point Break

29/7c+

10 Bolts

FA. Jono Fisher. 1991.

6.

Rad and Bad

29/7c+

10 Bolts

FA. Mike Roberts. 1991.

7.

Surf and Turf

23/6c+

7 Bolts

<add FA>

8.

Leap Tide

27/7b+

9 Bolts

FA. Stuart Brown. 2004.

Shares same chains as Thruster

9.

Thruster

26/7b

7 Bolts

FA. Sean Maasch. 1992.

10.

Triple Stinger

26/7b

7 Bolts

FA. Sean Maasch. 1991.

11.

J-Bay

28/7c

9 Bolts

FA. D Wiemar. 1997.

12.

Wipe-Out

31/8a+

5 Bolts

FA. Clinton Martinengo. 2012.

13.

Hypoxia

29/7c+

7 Bolts

FA. G Hoerhager. 1996.

14.

First Wave

25/7a+

5 Bolts

FA. Jeremy Ward. 1998.

15.

<unknown>

<add details>

Pipeline

There are only 4 routes here (the two remaining projects should prove to be VERY HARD. To get there you walk past Supertubes and then up to the right. It's quite a scramble to get to the crag (but then again if your climbing 8a this shouldn't be a problem now, should it?). Approach the ledge from right up gully, be careful. It is possible to abseil using the 2 abseil bolts, but you're really better off walking. You will need a 60m rope and please don’t forget to tie a knot in the end.
Routes LEFT to Right.