Oneace are you out there, as I am sure you can answer this question.

The wiring diagram in the owners manual of my TZ24DA list a wire color chart but on the schematic it will list, i.e. YBO.5. I would assume this would be a yellow/black. What does the "o" or Zero mean as it follows most of the labels and does the 5 indicate the number of the terminal block? However, there are some labels that end in .25 & .85

Another example is a L1.25 label(rear work light option), which would indicate a blue wire, what does the 1 represent?

Can I make an accurate assumption that all ground wires are green?

One more question, where is the main connector block located and how hard is it to access?

Thanks for you help, Dave

kyvette,

I just installed a rear work light on my TZ24DA and tried to use the wiring diagram in my NH manual but it was a bit confusing. I used an OHM meter to check the wiring harness (connectors) under the right-rear fender and found the one I needed to connect to for it to work correctly with the low-beam headlights. Needless to say, it took a bit of time and effort to sort through the wiring diagram and logic.

Jtfirth,
Normally wires are color coded based on a standard and you can easily identify the actual wire and trace it on the schematic. The NH owner's manual schematic and the actual wires do not match. Maybe the NH engineers designed it this way to force the owner to take the tractor to a NH shop.

For example a white wire with a black tracer should be identified as wht/blk on the schematic and green(grn)is always ground. Blue is blu not "L". Red is the positive side of the battery and black is the negative. I have found black wires with gold bands, no mention of gold on the wire color chart.

On my schematic there is a misspelled word, they list wire color code BY for Glack/Yellow. Doesn't say much for Q/C.

I am pleased with my TZ24 and not the least bit sorry I purchased it. There are items that do need improvement and the wiring schematic is one of them.

While I am on the subject, I would like to have a service manual, but I think $237 is excessive, about $50 would be reasonable.

Dave

Dave,

You're absolutely right about the wiring diagram in the manual and probably nailed the reason for it - take it back to the NH dealer for service! I guess I've been spoiled by the dealer who encourages the owner to do small repairs or upgrades to save a few bucks but is always there to answer questions, if necessary.

Like you, I wouldn't trade "Little Blue" for anything else. The tractor and dealer have been super!

Terry,
I have been pleased with my dealer. I contacted him a couple of weeks ago about a front bumper/grille guard. He got me one for $50 bucks while another NH dealer wanted $125. I also wanted a couple of suitcase weights. He had several used ones for $50 each. He said the truck pullers purchase most of them and have forced up the price. He suggested I find barbell weights or possibly railroad rail connectors.

I'll place pictures of the front bumper grille guard sometime today.

Dave

Dave,

I installed a bumper/grill guard shortly after my tractor was delivered. Consider yours a "steal" at 50 bucks because mine cost $300 (Canadian)! It's a bit of a pain in the a$$ when you want to check under the hood because you have to pull the pins and lower the bumper to get enough clearance for the hood to raise. I have a FEL and wanted it to make sure I didn't crunch the hood accidently when attaching or removing it.

By the way, if yours comes with NH nuts and bolts that are coated (yellowish color) get ready to use lots muscle power. They are tough to tighten and I'm sure won't come loose during the life of the tractor!

Terry,
I have uploaded pictures of the bumper, I believe they are numbers 15 & 16. The bumper is mounted using 5/8" grade 8 bolts and four 3/16" thick square washers for spacers. Mine may not be as nice as yours but I can't complain for $50 and some NH paint. The spacers provide clearance for the hood to open.
Dave

The schematics are labeled according to industry standards. Which goes main color stripe color and wire size. There should be a key that tells you what each symbol or abbreviation means. The schismatics that used blu- for blue and so forth are dumbed down for the average person. The ones in the ops manuals are taken right from the service books. Not all ground are green most are black.

Oneace,
I believe most of the tractor point members, including myself feel you are the expert on this board, at least for NH. However, I take exception to your statement that blu for blue is a "dump down" for the average person.

I work in the electric utility industry and also have some experience in the medical field on diagnostic equipment installation. The three letter designation for colors is common and green is always ground and black is one of the hot wires.

I am not as familar with wiring conventions for the automobile or tractor industry. There is a chart on the wiring diagram but it either has mistakes or isn't complete. For example there is a black wire with two gold bands that attachs to the right rear hazard lamp. The wire color chart nor the schematic show that particular wire. Additionally, what does the number in the wire label mean, i.e. YB0.5. This is the other wire to the hazard lamp which is yellow with a black strip.

The issue that brought this up was connecting a rear work light. The schematic shows wire L1.25. According to the chart the "L" is a blue wire. The actual wire is blue with a gold band.

You are correct that in 120 AC and up that green is ground and black is hot and in MOST white neutral. In the automotive field every thing is different as designated by S.A.E. (society of automotive engineers). Where in most case one letter is used to represent a color to conserve space on the schismatics. Since there are a few colors that begin with b the most often use the second or third letter. Like I said in the previous post the number is the size of the wire. .5= .5mm 1.5=1.5mm for metric charts. For standard the number would be gauge.