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Topic Review (Newest First)

11-27-2001 07:52 PM

DFix

IMO you're better off getting something rotomolded, rather than kevlar or glass or inflatable - dragging a glass or kevlar/gelcoat job once it's laden down with gear MIGHT happen. If you drag a rotomolded poly job, what's gonna happen? - you'll scuff the bottom a little. Look at the Perception Carolina or the Old Town Nantucket. Both are in the same weight range, both have the same relative primary and secondary buoyancy; both have hatches and balance out okay with gear loaded fore and aft. Both will float about 400 lbs. You don't really have to carry a poly kayak. Gee, in a poly kayak you could even slide down the stairs at the light if you wanted to

11-27-2001 07:20 PM

sean

I have a pontoon kayak made by outcast I like quite a bit on lakes and moderate rivers. Tracks really well but not as good as a real kayak does. It weighs around 20 pounds and it not all that bad to carry but I would not want to drag it over rocks and such.

Have used it some in the sound out here but think the base is a little too wide to deal with current and wind. Basically with a heavy current I have to come and go with the tides. They really built it with fishing from it in mind which comes at the cost of the water slicing properties of a true sea kayak.

I don't think weight will have much bearing on getting blown around, that has more to do with your profile above the water. Current will often do more to move you around than wind, the wind will effect your orientation. My pungo is 55 dry and empty and that's no problem to carry on a shoulder but load it up with all the stuff I bring and I don't really like to carry it more than 100yds. Dragging is not so bad but I wouldn't want to drag it too far either. Considering you can get by on 6-8" of water I'd wait for the tide. My canoe is about 80lbs and that's more than I like to carry for any distance. The 35lber sounds like a nice weight and fiberglass can be repaired too.

11-27-2001 03:28 PM

Nick

I thought I was gonna have to drive out and pick you up Dragging isn't so bad. My only complaint was not having a long enough pulling rope, it kept hitting me in the legs, otherwise it would have been fairly easy.

11-27-2001 12:16 PM

Roop

Good question.

I think my WS Manteo is around 50#, the CLC yaks are supposed to weigh around 35# when you're done.

If you're gonna carry it, you have to carry all your other stuff too. That + not worrying about beaching or surfing over rocks makes my choice of a plastice yak work for me.

I don't think windage is an issue if you plan on fishing form the yak - just use a small dirft sock.

The final drag of the year for me (and the fear of receiving CPR from Nick) , across Bewster flats has motivated me to work on my physical fitness.

Look for a stronger, faster, leaner Roop this spring.

Roop

11-27-2001 08:09 AM

juro

Weight factor

I am thinking thru my yak purchase for the coming year. One of the things that seems very important to me is weight. I plan to use the yak a lot in my favorite places that are dangerous to wade: the flats. This means unless I have the time to wait for the flood I will be doing a lot of hiking with the yak.

A tough molded yak can be dragged, but a fiberglass / kevlar yak like an eddyline is so light you can carry it over the clam flats to the truck. Overall I think light weight is an advantage out of the water, what about in the water?

Do you get blown around too easily in a very light yak? What is a light yak, and what is a heavy one (in pounds)?

I think I might be able to work the high end of the price range if I combine the sale of a dory, pontoon boat and xmas into one total.