My buddy Willow likes to keep me busy. Which is great! I am on the hunt for a proper, cute Christmas bonnet and also a hat, scarf and mitten set. Needless to say I will probably be creating that myself adapting various patterns. Its usually like that with children's patterns. You find a bonnet you like but there's no matching pieces. That's just fine. Adapting patterns really isn't as hard as one might think.

But back to Vintage. Yes, I said everything that is old is new again. Well, looking for a bonnet I came upon Lion Brand Yarns recent upload to Ravelry of a knitting and crochet book of patterns from 1912! Oh give me more Lion Brand! The beauty of this upload is that its the entire book right down to stitch techniques. You say, hey aren't stitch techniques always the same? Well for the most part yes but let's say you come across a puff stitch. Everyone has a different version of the puff stitch mostly consisting of more yarn overs and drawing up extra loops on the hook. The way the patterns are written they are referencing their techniques and without those details the patterns would be pretty difficult to achieve. I have never seen patterns written in such short-hand. They're efficient but I did find myself wondering often if I had enough stitches on the hook per the pattern and just winging it. That's why I always do what I call a "comp" of every design I try the first time. This is an opportunity to work out the kinks.

Another interesting problem with a pattern from 1912 is all the yarns are just not made any more. This pattern called for Eider Wool. No information was provided about the weight of the yarn or standard hook/needle sizes for it. I spent some time researching online and found others trying to figure out what the weight was and came to the conclusion that Eider Wool is a #5 Bulky yarn.

The next challenge - hook sizes. Yes they list them. Use a No 9 hook or a No 2 hook. Guess what. We don't refer to hooks like that any more. Its all mm and alphabets mainly. That lead me into researching hooks and I learned a lot of about the history of crochet hooks. Mainly that the patent for modern hooks started in 1912 (strangely the same year of our pattern). I never did find a conversion chart for No 9 equals the following modern hook. So I just used a hook that was appropriate to the yarn weight.

All that being said, thank goodness for Ravelry because I can jot all that information down when I uploaded a project for that bonnet. All the dirty details are in there. I didn't use a bulky weight yarn for starters. I used a heavier worsted weight but for the size bonnet I wanted that was perfect. The pattern makes a child's size bonnet and I wanted a toddler.

Worked from top downBeginning ch of every rnd is counted as a st.The Crown:With color 1 make a Magic Circle

Row 1: ch 2, work 14 dc into ring, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (15 st’s)

Increase rounds:

Row 2: ch 2, work 1 dc in same st as the ch 2, work 2 dc’s into the next dc, work a fpdc around the post of the next dc, *work 2 dc’s into each of the next 2 dc’s, work a fpdc around the post of the next dc,* repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (25 st’s)

Row 3: ch 2, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc‘s in next dc, work fpdc , *work 1 dc into next dc, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work 1 dc into next dc, work 2 dc‘s in next dc, work fpdc * repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (35 st’s)

Row 4: ch 2, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work 1 dc in next 2 dc‘s, work 2 dc‘s in next dc, work fpdc, *work 1 dc in next 2 dc‘s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work 1 dc in next 2 dc‘s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work fpdc,* repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (45 st’s)

Row 5: ch 2, work 1 dc in next 2 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into next dc, work 1 dc in next 3 dc‘s, work fpdc, *work 1 dc in next 3 dc’s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc’s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work fpdc,* repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (55 st’s)

Row 6: ch 2, work 1 dc in next 3 dc’s, work 2 dc’s into next dc, work 1 dc in next 4 dc‘s, work fpdc, *work 1 dc in next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, 1 dc in next 4 dc’s, work 2 dc’s in next dc, work fpdc,* repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (65 st’s)

End increase rounds

Rows 7-12: ch 2, work 1 dc in next 11 dc’s, work fpdc, *work 1 dc in next 12 dc’s, work fpdc,* repeat from*to* to end of the round, sl st to join into the top of the ch 2 (65 st’s)

Row 13-15: (color 2): ch 1, work 1 sc in next 65 st’s.

Row 16 (color 1): ch 2, work 1 hdc in next 65 st’s.

Row 17-19: (color 2): ch 1, work 1 sc in next 65 st’s.

Row 20 (color 1): ch 2, work 1 hdc in next 65 st’s.

Row 21 (color 1): ch 2, work 1 dc in next 65 st’s.

Row 22: (color 1): ch 1, work 1 sc in next 65 st’s.

Join with Sl st to 1st ch. Don’t tie off yarn.

Hat BrimWith color 2, join yarn 16 st’s from last row join.

Row 1: ch 1, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 19 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc in next sc

Row 2: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 32 sc

Row 3: Turn, ch 1, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc

Row 5: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 30 sc

Row 6: Turn, ch 1, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 17 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc

Row 7: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 28 sc

Row 8: Turn, ch 1, skip next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc. Sc2tog, sc in next sc

Row 9: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 25 sc

Row 10: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 24 sc

Row 11: Turn, Sl st to next sc, ch 1, sc in same st., 1 sc in next 23 sc

Hat TrimReturn to Hat row 22.

Row 23: Pick up loop of sl st, ch 1, 1 sc in st around including hat brim, 3 sc in brim corner, sl st to top of ch 1

Row 24: 1 sc in exh sc around, 3 sc in brim corners, sl st to ch 1.

Fasten off.

StrapCh 38 with color 1

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 sc in next 36 sc

Row 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in 37 sc

Row 4 (color 2): Join color 2, ch 1, sc in next 36 sc, 2 sc in next sc, continue along edge 1 sc in ech row. Work 2 sc in corner stitch. Working bottom of foundation chain, 1 sc in each chain loop, 2 sc in corner of chain, continue along edge 1 sc in each row. 1 sc in first sc, join with sl st.

Fasten off.

Sew strap just above hat brim. Attach 2 buttons to each end of hat strap.