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Looking at a Automag Pump for sale on Ebay

I am new to Automags.org. My son started to get into paintball and I have been looking into purchasing a Automag Pump for myself. He likes playing speed ball and is into the electronic guns but has a love for the Automags. I thought it would be something for both my son and I to enjoy.

There were some 3rd party pump kits made recently that would allow you to build one for considerably cheaper, but for someone new to the hobby and probably not wanting to go through the hassle of getting together the parts and building one from scratch, its not a horrible price. Original AGD pump kits IIRC, go for over $100 and you would probably have to pay $100-120 to find an Automag. Add another $40-50 for pump milling the rail and body and you're about on target.

There were some 3rd party pump kits made recently that would allow you to build one for considerably cheaper, but for someone new to the hobby and probably not wanting to go through the hassle of getting together the parts and building one from scratch, its not a horrible price. Original AGD pump kits IIRC, go for over $100 and you would probably have to pay $100-120 to find an Automag. Add another $40-50 for pump milling the rail and body and you're about on target.

Does the pump action make the gun shoot more accurate or further?
I notices that some automags hold their value very well, would this be one of them?
Thanks for the responce.

No, the pump simply makes it a pump versus a semi-auto. You have to pump it to cock it every time you want to shoot. Non-pump Automags are semi-auto that automatically recock themselves after every shot. All markers are field limited to shoot at under 300 feet per second, so none really should shoot farther than another.

As for holding their value, don't go by what you see on Ebay. Ebay prices are not always indicative of actual market values. Bone stock, non-upgraded Classic valved Automags tend to run in the $100-120 range and go up from there. Pricing is dependent on upgrades and rarity when it comes to Automags.

You might want to do some looking around the forums reading threads and making yourself familiar with the various types of Automags before jumping in.

But they are fun to play with. For the price you are right about the top of retail for a classic body pump mag like that. It does look like a AGD pump kit, so that helps a little. Still it could be worth it but you are right on the cusp of over paying. But it is in your price range and fits what you want to do (easily convertible back to semi) then it could be a good buy for you.

Also keep in mind that eBay takes a 10% fee on sales, on top of the PayPal fees (which eBay owns). I always expect paintball gear sales on eBay to be inflated about 13% or so due to that, compared to what you can buy on the forums.

This doesn't apply to new gear from an eBay store, though, since high volume sellers will eat the 13% fees in order to get the sales.

I found a 68 classic local to me and from what I understand it comes with the older, thicker style 12 inch Dye Precision Barrel for $100 and. It has a matching ser:CF64983 on the back part of the gun.

I tried it out and it works great. I ran through two gravity feed hoppers full of paint and the only issues I did notice is that with two hoppers worth of paint it chopped 2-3 balls. Once or twice, it also lobbed out two ball. But it shot straight when the barrel was clean.

Sounds like the barrel is in good condition then. The chopping and double feeding can either be attributed to the nubbin (detent in the barrel) or the gun not cycling completely. I'd have to see it to say which.

But other than that there really is a very limited market out there due to the after market mag parts usually being worse than the factory ones.

You can switch to a minimag body with no modifications other than switching it out. A ULE body will require you to remove the twist lock pin and switch to Autococker threaded barrels. Your best bet would really be just play with it and enjoy it. Mabey put a level 10 bolt kit in and have fun with it. You can start to upgrade it but you will quickly realize you now have 2 mags.

But other than that there really is a very limited market out there due to the after market mag parts usually being worse than the factory ones.

I would beg to differ, aside from the benchmark frames (which lightens the trigger pull while making it longer) and the ANS venturi bolts (or any aftermarket bolt for that matter) the after market parts tend to be really good, but also fairly expensive. The customization/upgrading of mags is probably higher than any other marker out there, you just have to be willing to put up the money.

I got this pump Mag. The auction ended with no sale. I worked a deal of $280 shipped. (down from $325) I just got it in my hand today. It is nice, not perfect, looks like it has been used with some minor scuffs and one little ding on the chrome body. After a few pumps, the trigger goes semi-auto, I do not have to pump it to shoot. I came with 2 extra wave rings. I think that might be the problem so I will try to install that first. Also the safty on/off pin on the trigger handle is missing. Is that something I can order?

Could be the wave spring, but it could also be that the bolt spring needs to be trimmed. Try the wave springs if that doesnt do it, start trimming the bolt spring. It should be shorter than the tip of the bolt. With that said, there is a chance that once you get the bolt short enough that it does not recock itself, you may get a leak from the bolt. If this is the case you will have to buy a new set of bolt carriers to get it to stop.

Just so you know, the body is not chrome, it is polished stainless. depending on the ding it may be able to be sanded and polished back out.

The frame looks to be a stock carbon fiber frame. If this is the case, you should be able to get a replacement safety from either AGD directly or Tunamart may have them as well. You can also usually find CF frames in the BST threads for under $20 complete.

Could be the wave spring, but it could also be that the bolt spring needs to be trimmed. Try the wave springs if that doesnt do it, start trimming the bolt spring. It should be shorter than the tip of the bolt. With that said, there is a chance that once you get the bolt short enough that it does not recock itself, you may get a leak from the bolt. If this is the case you will have to buy a new set of bolt carriers to get it to stop.

Just so you know, the body is not chrome, it is polished stainless. depending on the ding it may be able to be sanded and polished back out.

The frame looks to be a stock carbon fiber frame. If this is the case, you should be able to get a replacement safety from either AGD directly or Tunamart may have them as well. You can also usually find CF frames in the BST threads for under $20 complete.

Thank you for the input. I am really loving these Automag. I also did buy the 68 classic for $100. It shoot perfect. The greatest things I hear at the field is "Wow...what is that?!" and after a games, I hear "I think the guy with the Automag got me out!" I want to point out about myself...One, I got hit off brake and never got a chance to get anyonr out...and two...I suck at aiming, but I am learning. It is just funny the responce you get with these guns.

Another questions, 68 classic/RT/Tac One...what shoots more accurate? Do they all shoot the same given if they all had the same bolt/air valve and barrel?

You just need to trim the main bolt spring down. Cut 1/8 inch off at a time and recheck. Every mag is going to be different due to the strength of the spring. You want it short enough (weak) so it doesn't cock the marker. If you go too much you'll have a very hard time cocking it when you pull back on the pump arm.

You just need to trim the main bolt spring down. Cut 1/8 inch off at a time and recheck. Every mag is going to be different due to the strength of the spring. You want it short enough (weak) so it doesn't cock the marker. If you go too much you'll have a very hard time cocking it when you pull back on the pump arm.

Why is that? Is it because the spring isnt pushing on the bolt as much? Mine recocks fairly easily, but I have heard people saying they could recock theirs with one finger. I had to trim mine fairly short to get mine not to go semi.

Not meaning to hijack your thread Bird, but figured it was good knowledge for both of us.

Why is that? Is it because the spring isnt pushing on the bolt as much? Mine recocks fairly easily, but I have heard people saying they could recock theirs with one finger. I had to trim mine fairly short to get mine not to go semi.

Not meaning to hijack your thread Bird, but figured it was good knowledge for both of us.

Yeah, the bolt spring can still be pushing to help the pump stroke. Pump mags are why you save your old bolt springs.

Due to the lack of force from the spring, you have to stroke it that much harder. If you properly cut the spring, the amount of force to cock the marker is almost nothing. Jerking the marker forward to back will cock it if the spring is done up right.

Due to the lack of force from the spring, you have to stroke it that much harder. If you properly cut the spring, the amount of force to cock the marker is almost nothing. Jerking the marker forward to back will cock it if the spring is done up right.

Hmm. I may have to take another spring and try retrimming it. There is no way mine would even come close to recocking itself simply by shaking it back and forth.

If you have the same bolt, valve and barrel, the only variable is the body. The body has no effect on accuracy. Actually, neither do the bolt or the valve really. Paint to barrel bore match and using HPA are your two most important aspects of accuracy. HPA typically results in better consistency which helps with accuracy in that the FPS will not be jumping willdy like CO2 can at times due to different weather conditions. Using a barrel that is closely matched to your paint will help with accuracy as well. This is done through use of a barrel system that either uses inserts like a Freak barrel system or different sized backs like a WGP Kaner barrel system.

And before you ask, no a long barrel will not help with accuracy. One of the biggest things newer players have to realize is that paintball are inherently inaccurate, especially at long ranges. Essentially you are shooting a liguid filled flexible shell projectile through a smoothbore barrel. Between manufacturing flaws (seams, dimples, etc), varying size, temperature conditions (wind, humidity etc) and other factors (dirty barrel, varying velocity, etc) your accuracy will vary. Sometimes wildly from one shot to another. Too many beginner players enter the field expecting to be able to pick a flea off a dogs rear at 200 yards, and it just isnt possible.