Just wondering what the collective wisdom from the masses is on routing wires for a battery tender and heated gloves is?

Are people running it under the tank? Or zip tying to a part of the frame?

I bought my '06 last summer but an injury kept me from riding much this fall/winter. Just getting into some of the minor mods now.

Thanks,

Cord

I ran my cable along the side of the fuel tank, beneath the cover. It tucks out of view. I didn't even need zip ties. The cable runs under the seat and then pokes out the front of the seat. Very convenient for me.

__________________Behold the field in which I grow my fucks | Feast thine eyes upon it and see that it is barren!

Anyone have the '13 with the stock heated grips able to compare with aftermarket ones the previously used on an earlier model? I'm curious if its easy or worth it to buy the '13 grips to install on an older ('08) bike.

I gotz Oxfords for $100, and they work purdie darn good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GB

As mentioned above, heated grips from '13 won't work on previous models.
The OEM heated grips are wider than after market heated grips from Oxford for example, so if you go for aftermarket grips, you will have a gap between the switchgear and the grips. FWIW, I have the same yamaha heated grips on my SuperTenere and in the full on position, they get so hot, I have to turn them down, plus they are pretty much plug'n'play, the bike is pre-wired for them.

As I recall, I would've had a gap, butt I think there are two "locator pin holes" in the handlebars so you can move 'em in? Neither that, or I drilled a new one? Either way, I don't have a gap. (Just the one between mah two front teeth! )

As mentioned above, heated grips from '13 won't work on previous models.

The OEM heated grips are wider than after market heated grips from Oxford for example, so if you go for aftermarket grips, you will have a gap between the switchgear and the grips. FWIW, I have the same yamaha heated grips on my SuperTenere and in the full on position, they get so hot, I have to turn them down, plus they are pretty much plug'n'play, the bike is pre-wired for them.

Thanks for the head's up on that one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fred flintstone

There is an OEM retrofit kit for heated grips, part # ABA-2D237-40-00, they run 300-400, ex:

Just wondering what the collective wisdom from the masses is on routing wires for a battery tender and heated gloves is?

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I Can't get the damed picture to turn right side up... Flipin' IPhone!

I routed the wires under and around the front fairing. You can see the BMW / Power Let plug. It's on the lip of the upper fairing, in front and below the tanks Yamaha emblem. This is wired & fused directly to the battery. I's also in a heavy sheath to prevent a short. I have a male BMW style adaptor that hooks to my battery charger. I used over sized wire gauge for the Power Lets maximum load. The Power Let is rated at 15 Amps. You can find a wire gauge table on line.

I think this is the perfect location. If I was doing it now I would use a Gerbings faring mounted power connector, smaller cleaner and it fits most brands of heated gear.

I took clear number plate background, and cut out a piece for the lower faring extension. It saves the paint when the power plug is disconnected and rubs the fairing.

You can also see the heated grips controller under the left grip, behind the storage pocket. I admit when riding it's hard to see the LED's, power levels, with the controller in this position.

If you haven't considered a fuse box for your other electrical accessories. Now is a good time to do so. Individual fuses for each accessory is a rat's nest of wires. It can be a problematic stuffing these in a central location. Don't ask how I
know.

Free advice time. If your battery voltage is slightly low the bike will start and idle. Twist the throttle, and a nasty miss shows up, and no low end torque below 3 to 4K After you ride 5 to 50 Mi the bike will run normally. You might start looking at fuel systems cleaners, fresh tanks of fuel, electrical shorts. Put in a fresh battery, and all should be back to normal.

$350 hmmmm........ Motoworld of El Cajon. Well, I can save on shipping as they are close. I tried to by a FJR from them but their pricing was $$$$$$.

I got mine off ebay for about $85. They are showchrome brand and look exactly like those. I mean exactly. That controller fits the plugged hole on the left upper side of the fairing perfectly. I mounted mine from below and it looks like a factory option.

The things I want are:
- all day riding comfort
- plenty of low and midrange, since I do a lot of slow speed city riding
- good wind protection

There's nothing much wrong with my ST-1300, but
- it gets unstable at 120mph; I don't drive at 120mph, but it gives you something to worry about if doing a fast overtake
- it could be lighter
- it could be a bit narrower for filtering
- the screen isn't that good: all the way up it creates a negative pressure, half way up it vibrates my head; the bottom third of travel is the only useful bit
- taking the fairing off is a major event

I'll do a test ride of the FJR, but any pointers of things to look for? How is the weather protection? How's the screen? Is there anything you don't like about it?

I'm not sure it would be worth it. The FJR is a better bike in some respects but not markedly better. The only deal-breaker in your ST gripe list is the instability and if you're not regularly above 100 mph, I'd just ignore it.

Just don't think you're going to notice enough difference to make it worth the while. I've ridden both bikes extensively and although I like the FJR better, the ST has some very nice attributes too - the motor is a little more charismatic and the suspension and chassis on the ST seems a little more button-downed. Issues with wind/buffeting are best addressed in the aftermarket with different screens - there are plenty of folks complaining about the FJR's screen too. The FJR is not a whole lot lighter, narrower, or easier to work on either.

I'm not sure it would be worth it. The FJR is a better bike in some respects but not markedly better. The only deal-breaker in your ST gripe list is the instability and if you're not regularly above 100 mph, I'd just ignore it.

Just don't think you're going to notice enough difference to make it worth the while. I've ridden both bikes extensively and although I like the FJR better, the ST has some very nice attributes too - the motor is a little more charismatic and the suspension and chassis on the ST seems a little more button-downed. Issues with wind/buffeting are best addressed in the aftermarket with different screens - there are plenty of folks complaining about the FJR's screen too. The FJR is not a whole lot lighter, narrower, or easier to work on either.

- Mark

Exactly what you said, Mark.
I've owned both as well and prefer the FJR but not so much I'd dump a perfectly good ST for it.
They're both pretty similar in many ways. Both are excellent motorcycles.