At Alaïa, Clothes That Are Ready for Their Close-Ups

Paris Fashion Week officially ended on March 11, but for fashion insiders it lasted until last Monday — the final day of Azzedine Alaïa’s series of four minishows. Though they took place off-schedule — Mr. Alaïa has his own time clock, and holds presentations when, and if, a collection is ready; never before — they were, for those who got to see them, entirely on point.

Emphasizing the integrity of a garment itself, as opposed to any external adornment, they demanded viewing up close (hence the multiple shows for small groups), the better to understand the way a burgundy dress glinting with metallic shine created new curves because of the way it was constructed; or a small-shouldered ankle-length riding coat swirled around the legs because it was actually tailored from featherweight jersey. Or the way a sheath and matching shawl-collared bolero jacket were printed with a pattern that suggested the idea of feathers. Or, for that matter, the fact that a long-sleeved V-neck knit dress, the skirt descending in tiers of almost-fringe, was as entrance-making as any red-carpet gown, yet looked as comfortable as an old sweater.

Indeed, they were clothes that did not dictate, but rather proposed: the sense that security could be found in absolute elegance. “I feel like it is not the time for being too aggressive with clothing or the body,” the designer said before the shows began. “There is too much going on in the world that is difficult. People want to be taken care of, to be held.”

This was his way of answering that need. And for that, it’s never too late.