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WDB745RES1 Westinghouse Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for WDB745RES1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Bottom Door Seal fell apart and started leaking.

First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

1. Shut off water supply.2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.6. Remounted assembly to the frame.7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

It was amazing, the items were shipped within days of placing the order. They arrived ready for installation. My husband had the new racks in place in 10 minutes. He removed the wheels from the old racks and placed the wheel on the new racks which required no tools. Then we slid the new racks into place, a perfect fit!

leak at heater element

The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

Latch on detergent dispenser was broken

Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

Dishwasher would not drain

**** A stubby Philips screw driver will save you a lot of headache taking the two retaining screws out that hold the drain pump assembly to the hanging bracket *** An inspection mirror was also helpful trying to locate these screws.

I thought the pump impeller vane was possibly broken because the pump would not drain the dishwasher but it would energize and make a loud clicking/rumbling noise.

1) Drain water from the dishwasher. I used a piece of tubing and siphoned the water out. Remove front cover plate.

2) Turn off breaker and dsconnect two wires going into pump.

3) Remove the pump inlet. I kept the 4" rubber jumper piece attached when I took the pump out.

4) I had to disconnect the wash water feed line to be able to reach the hose clamp on the pump outlet.

5) Loosen hose clamp on the pump outlet if you can reach it, otherwise remove the two screws that hold the drain pump assembly in. There is one screw on each side of the pump. I used an inspection mirror to see the screws. I had to use a stubby Philips head screw driver to take the screws out.

6) Wrangle the drain section out and finish taking off the pump outlet hose clamp. Install new pump and work backwards to put it together.

When I pulled the pump out I found the impeller to be complete (not broken as I had thought) and I saw it had two small steel balls that sat in grooves. I think the two balls and groove act as a safety detent and disengage the pump if something big gets sucked in. I pushed down on the impeller and everything snapped together nicely. Since I already ordered a new pump and I had everything taken apart already I installed the new one but I think I could have just used the old one.

Hope this is helpful to someone else. Washer has worked fine since.

Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

Dishwasher was leaking

The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

Leaking from the bottom of the door

With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Spray arm melted onto the heater

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

The dishwasher would not spray to middle or top rack and detergent would not dissolve.

I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

Dishwasher door practically fell open

All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.