Indonesia’s favourite dish - nasi goreng (mixed fried rice) - is on the menu everywhere, from the breakfast tables of the smartest hotels to simple open-air food stalls. Surabaya’s cuisine is as varied as its people, with restaurants serving a host of Indonesian favourites.

Chicken and beef are the most common fowl and meat dishes. Indonesia is predominantly a Muslim country, and pork is a rarity. Hawker stalls and food markets purvey regional delicacies from all over the country. At these, you order what you want from any of dozens of vendors and find a table wherever you can.

Kayoon Park, on the west bank of the Kayoon River, is filled with food stalls selling East Javan and Madurese favourites soon after sundown. As well as these typical treats, most major hotels have as many as half a dozen restaurants serving western-international, Chinese, Japanese, and Indian food. Many of the best restaurants can be found in larger hotels, but budget travellers will find plenty of modestly priced eateries all over.