'Seamless' show stitches together duos of designers, artists

Lord Martine

Published 4:00 am, Friday, December 6, 2002

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Fashion designer Colleen Quen was inspired to create dresses in felt by artist Frank Haines, who has filled a room at the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts with "Valiant Phantasm," a felt fantasy of medieval design and flower power. Chronicle photo by Chris Stewart less

Fashion designer Colleen Quen was inspired to create dresses in felt by artist Frank Haines, who has filled a room at the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts with "Valiant Phantasm," a felt fantasy of medieval ... more

'Seamless' show stitches together duos of designers, artists

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Enter my glamoursphere.

Fashion before function will be the mantra tonight at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts' "Seamless: A New Breed of Fashion Show," co-produced by ADHOC, a multidisciplinary group of designers committed to exhibiting new work.

Creations by six independent designers will be modeled by the artists as they catwalk through the galleries. Their outfits -- made in response to works featured in the "Bay Area Now 3" exhibition at the center's museum until Jan. 12 -- will then be stripped for grabs in a silent auction.

Talk dirty to me.

No, actually talk fashion with me. Each designer was paired with one of the BAN3 artists to provide stylish inspiration. Matchmaker, matchmaker, make me a match.

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Couturier Colleen Quen, 37, and conceptualist/installationist Frank Haines, 29, were among those united. I met with them in Quen's "Metropolitan Home"- worthy SOMA salon for some "Seamless" chatter between whip stitches and needle jabs.

Q: Frank, "Valiant Phantasm," your installation at YBCA, is a 12- by 33- foot room depicting a number of scenes made with hand-cut felt. Is this indicative of your other works?

FH: It's based on Sunday school crafts -- learning aids. We used to make felt cutouts and banners. It's the same applique technique. I thought it would be awesome to make a room with felt, where you are entirely consumed.

The theme was this "disjumbled" story line that played on fantasy and history -- knights, Vikings, battle scenes . . . an adolescent attraction.

It's an enormous mix of influences. Jack Chick's "Chick Publications" was a big influence. The god above the door in my installation is the exact god in Chick's comics. The hell scene and the flowers are, too. You'll also see a crazy old man that just talks forever and wears a Looney Tunes character on his shirt. Then it followed the seasons, like with autumn happening; it's getting darker. Then here's this dandy boy headed into the scary graveyard . . . .

Q: How much felt did it take?

FH: I don't know how much in yards, but it was about $1,400 worth.

Q: How long did it take to install?

FH: I had six days to create the world. But everything that populates the world, I made beforehand -- which I started in September.

Q: Colleen, what was the designer/artist selection and matching process like?

CQ: Months ago, I was asked to submit my portfolio to YBCA; then they matched me with Frank. I was so excited because it had to do with art. When I approach my designs, I do so more as art.

Q: Art is all around you . . . .

CQ: Yes, my husband is furniture designer Rick Lee. We recently did an "artwear"/furniture exhibition based on the five elements. I also design costumes for Alonzo King's Lines Ballet.

Q: Your work is exceptional, high concept. It gives me orgasm. I love that your pieces are exhibited around your studio like works of art.

CQ: I take each design to heart. My love is to take each concept fully, as an art piece, like sculpture.

Q: How did your first meeting go?

CQ: I hadn't really seen Frank's work. When we met, he pulled out his treasures of felt, and I started to understand his work more. I really got into what he does; from there, it grew in me.

I'm just finishing this swirl flower gown -- made of felt -- which was inspired by me (mentally) jumping into the floral swirl above the doorway in Frank's piece. It was like being in a coloring book -- so much fun!

(She presented her masterpiece.)

Q: I'm in awe. Frank, you want to put this on, don't you?

FH: (Nods, with smile.) It's amazing.

Q: (Truth: I wanted to don Quen's gown.)

CQ: I'm actually designing a suit for Frank to wear that night, too.

Q: Lucky bastard. What else?

CQ: Hopefully, I'll have time to create another medieval dress -- with a draw gate.

Q: I was a couturier. So I understand the level of work you put into each piece.

CQ: My patterns are very detailed. And the sewing must be meticulous. There is an art to the whole process -- an intellectual part as well.

Q: You really did bathe in Frank's vision. Like an actor preparing for a role.

CQ: It's kind of strange, but I love that.

Q: What's been the grooviest thing about this project?

FH: It enabled me and Colleen to meet and work together.

Q: Why was it important for you to do this collaboration?

FH: The scenes often get isolated from one another. Ultimately, it's a totally beneficial cross-pollination. It's people working with ideas and manipulating matter . . . .

CQ: We're all artists in our own different ways, but having other artists come together is the most creative energy that can happen.

The event will be a whole environment of fashion, art and design -- mixing it together, which is great. Because we all are together.

Where to see the 'Seamless' fashion show "Seamless: A New Breed of Fashion Show" is from 5:30 to 8 p.m. today at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts at 701 Mission St., at Third Street.