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Tunic-style evening dress of royal blue hammered silk. Full-length, narrowing to hem and with a slit up the side. Dress has a round neckline with hook-and-eye closure at back and has wide, straight, bracelet-length sleeves.
Hand-written notation on the designer label: "8634 #2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30337/

Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30292/

Skirt of open weave silk ribbons. The floor-length skirt is created of loosely woven silk ribbons of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, orange, brown, white, and black, forming a lattice or trellis. It gathers into the orange waistband, which has a single hook-and-eye closure, and is unlined.
No labels in garment. Designed Fall 1996. Gift of the Todd Oldham Archives.
Bodice in image is a modern wrap placed on form for display purposes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30295/

Dress of photo-printed knit. The sheath-style dress is of a polyester/lycra blend sueded knit. Full-length, the dress has a "crew neck" rounded neckline with slight standing collar and short cap sleeves. The dress widens at the hips and tapers to the hem, and has a back vent slit at center back from hem up 47.5cm. The entire garment is photo-printed with images of "travel scenes" of the west - roads, lakes, cacti, cows on farms, rock formations, etc.
Designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham"
Three tags inside near hem:
Size: "M"
Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A."
Content: "85% Polyester / 15% Lycra".
From Oldham's Spring 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30299/

Coat of black wool. The hip-length coat is constructed of black felted wool with yellow, red, green, brown, blue, and orange bands of grosgrain ribbon woven in and out of the wool, forming a grid or trellis pattern over the entire garment. The coat has a notched collar and long sleeves, and has a center-front closure with three circular silver colored metal buttons. It is fully lined with black silk.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham".
From Oldham's Fall 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30296/

Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined.
The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham"
The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband.
The pants have four labels sewn in:
Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham"
Size: "S"
Content: "100% / Silk"
Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30297/

Dress of striped cotton broadcloth. The "house dress" style garment is street-length, in various patterns of woven striped cotton broadcloth. It has a center front opening that extends the length of the dress and secures with 7 gold-colored metal buttons set with colored rhinestones and on hidden hook-and-eye closure at waist. The wide collar is primarily in yellow with very narrow stripes of orange and blue. The bodice is of vertical stripes of reds, purples, pinks, etc. The skirt, which gathers into the natural waist, is in vertical stripes of blues with thin maroon and green accent stripes. The short sleeves are in stripes of blues, red, yellow and white, and have french cuffs secured with metal rhinestone-set cuff-links. The dress is unlined. The accompanying belt/sash is of the same fabric as the sleeves, and is finished at the ends as cuffs with sewn-on cuff-links matching the sleeves.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham".
Four labels sewn inside skirt at side seam:
Content: "100% / Cotton"
Care: "Dry Clean / Only"
Size: "S"
Origin: "Made / In U.S.A."
From Oldham's Spring 1994 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30298/

Coat of printed satin. The floor-length coat has a rounded neckline and a center-front opening that extends the entire length of the garment and is secured with a single cloth-covered circular button at the throat. It has long sleeves and is fully lined in a salmon damask silk woven with a floral-foliate design. The entire garment is photo-printed with scenes of room interiors in various styles.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham".
From Oldham's Spring 1997 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30294/

Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat.
Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30043/

Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk.
Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30001/

Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads.
There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/

Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem.
Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/

Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth.
Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/

Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating.
Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/

Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep".
Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A".
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe"
Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross".
Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30206/

Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/

Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30063/

Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink.
Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/

Raincoat of navy and white horizontal striped patent vinyl. The A-line coat is of short length, extending to just above the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening has wide overlap, and is secured with 4 snaps. There are two side-seam pockets, and a red vinyl belt with square buckle. The coat is fully lined in dark maroon/purple/red taffeta.
Coat has single label: "La Flaque / de Paris". Belt has repeated stamped on reverse: "Excel / Backing Guaranteed Wash or clean / as garment" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30139/

Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell".
Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/

Wedding ensemble. The dress is of creme satin styled as a sleeveless A-line dress, with wide shoulder straps. The neckline of the bodice is embellished with rows of satin cording forming a cross-over design. The skirt has a high waistline, and is formed of a lattice of groups of four vertical and four horizontal rows of satin cording, with a backing of creme gauze.
Label sewn into inside back of dress: "Victor Costa / Bridal"
With veil of silk tulle with satin binding, not shown in photograph. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30279/

Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt.
Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30270/

Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30307/

Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/

Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30104/

Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric.
The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/

Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30217/

Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt.
First image shows:
a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell".
b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York".
c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
The second image shows:
a) Vest, described above.
b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/

Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric.
Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30188/

Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita"
Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30184/

Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/

Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back.
Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/

Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/

Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/

Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30316/

Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot.
Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots.
Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/

Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk.
Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC"
Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R".
Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/

Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath.
This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30317/

Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk.
Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30037/

Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric.
The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/

Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/

Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/

Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment.
The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/

Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30124/

Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband.
Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/

Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure.
These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers.
Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/