By Harriet Cooper for High Life magazine

September 2016

From its stunning architecture and likely sprinkling of snow, Poland’s second city somehow manages to make Christmas last from November right through to February. Harriet Cooper reveals Krakow’s Christmas calendar.

The annual Christmas cribs competition is a sight to behold. The colourful and ornate szopki can reach two metres, and are displayed around the main square.

6 December - Dzień Świętego Mikołaja

Saint Nicholas visits Krakow three weeks early on ‘Santa Claus Day’. Banish thoughts of white beards and red suits; here he is resplendent in purple robes and a gold crown. Having left letters to him on their windowsills, children wake to discover whether he has left gifts.

The feast of Wigilia is the crux of the festivities. First, the opłatek wafer is passed around friends and family, with good wishes for the year ahead. Then, as the first star appears in the sky, a 12-course meal begins. As the clock strikes 12, churches are filled for midnight mass.

Local legend says when the clock strikes 12 on Christmas Eve, two knights ride to Wawel Castle. Knocking at the door, they awaken Boleslas the Brave, one of the castle’s regal residents of old. Stand by the castle at midnight and perhaps you’ll see them…

25 December – Christmas day

In the afternoon, head to St Francis’s Basilica on All Saints Square. At the church, known for its awe-inspiring Art Nouveau stained glass, a live Nativity scene is enacted, complete with animals, carollers and a bonfire.

How better to soothe a sore head than with a concert by the Kraków Philharmonic Orchestra? Performances at 3pm and 7pm will feature favourites by the likes of Gershwin and Dvorák.

6 January – Epiphany

Epiphany (Trzech Króli) is a national holiday to mark the three wise men visiting Jesus. In Krakow, carollers parade the streets, then convene in the Old Town square for hearty singing.

January - Sing a song

Many churches in Krakow host carol concerts throughout January. You’ll hear traditional versions of the songs and Polish folk music.

2 February – A festive finish

While other European nations tidy tinsel and toss trees in early January, in Poland, festive decorations can stay up until the Christmas season officially ends on 2 February, Matki Boskiej Gromnicznej (Candlemas).

Bubbling up

Toasting with something fizzy at midnight might be a global tradition, but in Poland, locals believe that the drink’s bubbles can predict your future. If they move slowly, you’ll supposedly have a calm year. But if they move fast, it could mean that important changes lie ahead.