Savory Japanese custard called Chawan Mushi

Japanese chefs have a way of making the simplest ingredients stunning. Take chawan mushi, the savory steamed egg and dashi broth custard dotted with seafood and/or vegetables. Steamed to order in delicate little cups, the silky, jiggly, barely set custard appears as a special at local restaurants like Mirakutei, Koji Osakaya and Biwa. But when a craving strikes, we make it at home with in-season vegetables like roasted squash, fresh corn and wild mushrooms.

In a bowl, combine the dashi broth, eggs, soy sauce, mirin, salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into small soup bowls or teacups.

Divide the vegetables among the cups (it’s OK if they sink to the bottom). Cover the cups tightly with plastic wrap.

Set up a steamer basket in a large pot with enough water to come up to, but not touching the bottom of the steamer. Bring the water to a simmer, carefully set the cups onto the steamer with tongs, cover pot and steam until the custard is just set on the edges and still a little jiggly in the center, about 16 to 18 minutes. Remove cups with tongs, carefully remove the plastic, and sprinkle with scallion and chile oil. Serve warm.