Hong Kong: It's for serious shoppers only

They stretch down the block, filed neatly behind retractable barriers.

The sun has set now and some people yawn unabashedly, their arms already heavy with carrier bags. Still, they're patient as they inch forward, the sparkly gates of the Louis Vuitton store drawing closer.

Lineups are a common sight at this four-storey flagship on Hong Kong's Canton Road, a cross between Paris's Champs Elysees and New York's Fifth Avenue.

Here, on this single stretch of road, every store is a behemoth, in size and in name, and the queues are only slightly shorter if you prefer the names Gucci, Chanel, or Prada on your handbags.

It's no secret that Hong Kong takes shopping seriously. That people come here to spend is obvious from the moment you arrive at the airport, which is as much a hub for retail as it is for transportation.

With more than 200 stores, ranging from Armani to Versace, fashion lovers can theoretically fly to Hong Kong, have a shopping spree, and fly back out again without ever leaving the airport.

Those who do venture into the city often opt to spend the night in Kowloon, where some high-end hotels offer guests free shuttles to popular shopping districts.

While Canton Road might have the highest concentration of designer labels, purveyors of haute couture are to the city what coffee shops are to North America - ubiquitous.

Even department stores, like local favourites Sogo and Seibu, boast their own in-store boutiques for Salvatore Ferragamo and Hugo Boss.

But to assume Hong Kong is fit only for brand hunters would be to ignore why this place has long drawn westerners. Thanks to favourable exchange rates and zero sales taxes, the dollar here goes far. Plus, what you get for your buck is so fashionable that to actually wear your finds, you'd have to wait several seasons for Whyte Avenue to catch up.

If local independents are what you're looking for, head to Langham Place in Mongkok, a towering mall with 15 floors, five of which are devoted only to food, shoes and bags, cosmetics, sportswear and restaurants.

The fun truly begins, however, when you take the super-long escalator from the fourth floor to the Spiral Gallery, where more than 50 boutiques offering men's and women's clothing, jewelry, toys and accessories await.

On paper, it sounds like a daunting hike, but the gallery's five levels corkscrew upward, meaning you don't have to ever retrace your steps to look for an escalator.

Before you know it, you've reached the top.

Another good bet for independents is Granville Road, a short walk from Canton Road but a completely different world that bustles with young trendsetters.

Shops here are tiny, which makes casual browsing as easy as weaving from store to store.

Try Bess at 24A Granville Rd. for subdued womenswear, more in line with North American fashions, and 5cm further down the street for guys' and girls' urban wear.

Across Victoria Harbour, Causeway Bay - the Times Square of Hong Kong Island - is another must-do shopping destination.

Start at Fashion Walk, home to the secondary labels of more renowned names, such as Burberry Black and Blue Label and Armani Exchange.

Then work your way through the surrounding streets to discover more local favourites. Be sure to stop at I.T., which began in 1988 with one 200-square-foot store.

It has now grown to become one of Hong Kong's most successful clothing companies, with more than 300 stores under various banners (including 5cm). I.T. has also made a name for itself as the place to find up-and-coming designers, as well as those better known but harder to find, such as Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garcons and Isabel Marant. Buy your drop-crotch pants here.

If you're looking to score serious deals - and quality is less of a concern - try a street market, where T-shirts can be had for the equivalent of $5 and faux leather handbags are yours for $20.

Jardine Crescent in Causeway Bay is a popular stop, as is the market at Stanley, the waterfront tourist destination about a half-hour bus ride from Central station. Even if you don't buy anything, the markets are worth a visit merely for the experience of pushing through a busy passageway, squeezed in by stalls, and trying your hand at the beloved local sport of haggling.

If after all that, luxury brands are still what you seek, burn your cash at one of the dozens of mega malls in Hong Kong. You'll find it all at the city's biggest, the 700-store Harbour City in Kowloon, but if it's a quieter shopping experience you seek, the International Finance Centre on Hong Kong Island has just as impressive a range.

Surprisingly, the IFC does not have a Vuitton. But you won't have to bribe a bouncer to get through the doors either.

IF YOU GO

- Air Canada offers frequent flights from to Hong Kong via Vancouver.

- Once you're there, buy an Octopus Card, which you can reload with cash as often as you want from transit stations and 7-Eleven convenience stores.

- You can use Octopus Cards to pay for public transit, the most convenient way to get around Hong Kong.

- The W Hotel in Kowloon offers guests free shuttles to the Tsim Sha Tsui shopping district, stopping at Canton Road, Harbour City and Nathan Road. They run every half an hour throughout the day. For more information, visit starwoodhotels.com.

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