Our first stop this morning was an open-air museum, a huge field of glacial boulders with petroglyphs as old as 8th c BC . Although I've been in regions where these exist, I've never seen them in their place, so this felt special. This was a ritual site for a culture that worshiped the sun, so all of the carvings face south. The associated settlements are now underwater. They were studied by German ...

... September 16th, 10 days from now, we needed to come up a plan to make the best use of our compressed time in Tajikistan. We’d only have 6 days and we did not want to waste even part of a day.

Uzbek and Tajikistan Visa Status

Dave called the Uzbek Embassy immediately for an appointment to pick up our visa and was told to come by Tuesday at 10am. They are closed on the weekend as well as Monday (for visa service) so that was ...