Review

Could this Morpheus location of the great French chef’s restaurant empire be one of the most beautiful yet? While the hotel’s contemporary edge means that the opulent glamour of the Plaza Athenée may not be beat, it is certainly one of the most striking restaurants in Macau; guests enter through a glowing, undulating corridor filled with hanging tubes of light, and the ethereal shimmer is repeated throughout the plush space. It’s all about the fine dining here, for sure, with a signature tasting menu available that presents dishes that are unmistakeably Ducasse: steamed duck foie gras with raw and cooked figs, and toasted brioche; line-caught sea bass with tender celeriac. Wines are held in high regard, with an impressive and credit card crunching pairing for serious oenophiles priced at MOP2888, inclusive of 2000 P2 Dom Perignon and 1998 sauternes from Chateau Suduiraut. When it comes to the bookends, the baguettes are cold and pedestrian—a surprise given how the French hold their bread and butter in the highest regard—but the desserts and unusual petits fours (candied kumquats, pineapple granita, Japanese muscat grapes) round up a truly decadent meal.