Description

Gunnison is a city of about 5000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.

In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.

West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.

"The Black" is as deep as 2700 ft at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park.The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.

Getting There

Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000ft) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies W of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.

I bolted this on Easter of 2009. Ben Spannuth perfected his cobra strike to snag the FA on May 2, 2012. It is a difficult and high quality climb. It has 5 bolts of 30 degree overhung granite to a topout. Pinches, crimps, slopers, underclings, mantles, crazy tension moves, dynos, it's all here. Bring your 'A' game! Jump start to the jug horn and mantle to clip the first bolt. Defy gravity and stand up into a small thumb undercling, and then press into a larger undercling to clip bolt @PO...[more]Browse More Classics in CO

Are there any guidebooks with information about sport climbing and/or bouldering near Gunnison and Crested Butte? Where is the nearest limestone with lots in the 5.8-5.11, V0-V6 range? I was looking at the crags near Canon City and they look nice, is that a reasonable drive from Gunnison?

Hey Joe, Gunnison is a great place to climb. There are a couple of guides out, bouldering the G spot and unknown are both great. If you need a little help, go see Andy at All Sports Replay, he's a good guy and he knows the area. Sorry but gunny doesn't have any limestone, Shelf Road is the closest. Good luck.

Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...

I climbed at "The Point" near Powderhorn over the weekend and am looking for some beta. There is a new route on the east end of the south face that climbs a roof (1st route you come to). Anyone know what the rating is? I thought it was .10a but it felt way harder!

I was sorry to see that this little Crag was left out of Leo's book (which I own) but can understand that he was busy getting the damn thing published. Thanks Leo for a job well done!

I'd like to extend an invitation for everyone to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June.

Also this same weekend is the Gunnison Loco Motive, Adventure Sport race: 5 miles of kayaking, 26 miles of mountain biking at Hartmans, and a 10k run. (or half that). This is all held in conjunction with the Gunnison River Festival.

Hey, all you Gunnystoners and Crusted Buteations, HEADS UP! Two remarkable shows at Neptune's. Thur. 5/19 8p Jorge & Joanne Urioste on the Early Days of climbing at Red Rock Nevada AND Fri. 5/20 7p A Tribute to Gunnison's own John (the Gambler) Rosholt.

If you can, try to be there. Check the News or Neptune's site for more info.