My OEM quick shifter is absolute garbage. Using it creates some serious suspension issues from front to back, and I'm assuming it is because it is so slow. I can shift way faster using the normal preload shifter and throttle off/on without upsetting the bikes suspension. How do I fix this?

Yes my front suspension is set hard (not max), my rear is also set hard, but my preload is .... I don't know... I'm guessing hard as well because the bike barely sags when I sit on it. I'm a heavy dude. 210lbs.

My OEM quick shifter is absolute garbage. Using it creates some serious suspension issues from front to back, and I'm assuming it is because it is so slow. I can shift way faster using the normal preload shifter and throttle off/on without upsetting the bikes suspension. How do I fix this?

Yes my front suspension is set hard (not max), my rear is also set hard, but my preload is .... I don't know... I'm guessing hard as well because the bike barely sags when I sit on it. I'm a heavy dude. 210lbs.

more information is required, whats happening when you shift with the QS?? sounds more like your suspension is setup incorrectly than anything else

My OEM quick shifter is absolute garbage. Using it creates some serious suspension issues from front to back, and I'm assuming it is because it is so slow. I can shift way faster using the normal preload shifter and throttle off/on without upsetting the bikes suspension. How do I fix this?

Yes my front suspension is set hard (not max), my rear is also set hard, but my preload is .... I don't know... I'm guessing hard as well because the bike barely sags when I sit on it. I'm a heavy dude. 210lbs.

It's not the actual quickshifter but the cut times that are set in the software. Is your ECU flashed!

I wonder if superbikeunlimited use woolich to flash their ECU's. Regardless the 10R gives the best gains from the flash for sure.

Nope they don't. So expect a $400 upcharge in addition to their cost of flashing your ECU for just enabling it in the ECU through them and the software they use.

You can get the kit to do it yourself through me, use my guidance and get a discount on the hardware itself. That way you can actually play with the kill times and the blip settings to find out what works for you.

-or-

You can send it away to someone to have it flashed. If you're 100% set on sending it away, look at 2 Wheel Dynoworks or Schnitz Racing to name a few.

If you still have problems in the upper gears/upper RPMs with the sensor detecting shifts, then you may want to look at upgrading the sensor. The OEM one is a piece of trash. After upgrading to the Woolich sensor I haven't had any of the problems I previously had which were
1) Upshifts not being detected in higher RPMs
2) Upshifts not being detected in higher gears
3) Downshifts not being detected in faster downshifts putting me in a gear higher than I wanted.