This weekend, I decided to stitch up a new version of my Lunar Crossings Shawl. Red Heart had recently sent me some “Unforgettable” yarn in the colorway Gossamer and I was excited to try it out.

Special Instructions

I originally made the Lunar Crossings Shawl in a finer weight. When I received this yarn, I wanted to try it out in the heavier weight yarn of Red Heart Unforgettable. Please follow the instructions below to make this variation to the original pattern which is also linked below.

To make this version, I used three full skeins of Unforgettable and an I-9 (5.5mm) hook. I had just enough to make a tassel for the bottom. I used every bit of the three skeins of delicious color and softness.

Thank you to Red Heart Yarns for providing yarn support for this project.

In order to make this project, I followed the Lunar Crossings Shawl pattern. After row 12, I did five more repeats of the six rows, ending with row 42. To make the edging, I used the Cluster Lace Edging up to the fifth round only. It required a small bit of modification at the edges since the shawl is a triangle and I only wanted the edging along the two sides.

Thank you to Red Heart Yarns for providing yarn support for this project.

Notes

This project is made in join-as-you-go mitered squares. Each square is built on the previous square. The squares are first built into a completed block of nine and then trimmed. Nine completed blocks are seamed and a final trim added to complete the blanket.

A lot of this project is worked in back loops. When working the last stitch of a row in back loop only, I prefer to make that last stitch in both loops to retain tension. If your last stitch looks a bit loopy on the edge, try this as well.

Row 1: Ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch for a total of 7 sc, then going toward the marked sc, work 8 sc evenly along the side of the First Square to the marked sc, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Third Square

Row 1: Ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch for a total of 7 sc, then going toward the marked sc, work 8 sc evenly along the side of the First Square to the marked sc, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Fourth Square

Row 1: Ch 1, going toward the marked sc, work 7 sc evenly along the side of the Third Square to the marked sc, work 1 sc at inner corner between Third Square and First Square, then work 7 sc evenly along the side of First Square, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Fifth Square

Row 1: Ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch for a total of 7 sc, then going toward the marked sc, work 8 sc evenly along the side of the Fourth Square to the marked sc, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Sixth Square

Row 1: Ch 1, going toward the marked sc, work 7 sc evenly along the side of the Fifth Square to the marked sc, work 1 sc at inner corner between this square and the previous square, then work 7 sc evenly along the side of previous square, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Seventh Square

Row 1: Ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch for a total of 7 sc, then going toward the marked sc, work 8 sc evenly along the side of the Sixth Square to the marked sc, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Eighth Square

Row 1: Ch 1, going toward the marked sc, work 7 sc evenly along the side of the Seventh Square to the marked sc, work 1 sc at inner corner between this square and the previous square, then work 7 sc evenly along the side of previous square, turn: 15 sc. With stitch marker, mark the last stitch of this row.

Rep rows 2-8 of First Square.

Ninth Square

Row 1: Ch 1, going toward the marked sc, work 7 sc evenly along the side of the Ninth Square to the marked sc, work 1 sc at inner corner between this square and the previous square, then work 7 sc evenly along the side of previous square, turn: 15 sc.

Rep rows 2-7 of First Square.

Row 8: Ch 1, pull up lps as you would for a sc3tog, except drop color A and close the stitch with color B, turn. Fasten off color A.

Finish Block

Note: Discontinue working under back loops only. Begin working under both loops as you would normally until instructed otherwise.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 3 sc at each corner with 21 sc evenly along each side, sl st to first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each 2nd sc of corner, sl st to first sc.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each 2nd sc of corner, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Seaming

With yarn needle, seam 9 Blocks in a 3×3 format.

Border

Round 1: Join color A with sl st in any 2nd sc of corner of blanket, ch 1, work 3 sc at each corner with 83 sc evenly along each side, sl st to first sc.

Round 2: Working in front lps only, reverse sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc.

Round 3: Working in remaining back lps from round 1, ch 1, sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each 2nd sc of corner, sl st to first sc.

Rounds 4-5: Ch 1, sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each 2nd sc of corner, sl st to first sc.

Round 6: Working in front lps only, reverse sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc.

Round 7: Working in remaining back lps from round 5, ch 1, sc in each sc, with 3 sc in each 2nd sc of corner, sl st to first sc, fasten off.

Round 8: Join color A with sl st in any sc after a 3-sc corner, ch 1, sc in same sc, *[sk 2 sc, fan in next sc, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc] to 3-sc corner, sk 1 sc, fan in 2nd sc of corner, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, rep from * 3 times more, except sl st to first sc on final repeat.

Round 9: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ch 3, sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Ever have one of those patterns where it says to pick up stitches evenly across? When a pattern indicates that you will pick up stitches evenly, it means that they must be evenly distributed across the space. It doesn’t necessarily mean that you’re going to pick up a stitch at the edge of each row.

Most stitches are wider than they are tall. If you tried to pick up stitches in every single edge of the row, your fabric wouldn’t lie flat. It would be ruffly.

Have you started picking up stitches only to discover that you’re short stitches or you have too many? Take the mystery out of it!

If you have a pattern that says to distribute a certain number of stitches evenly across then divide it into small sections to make it easier.

Let’s demonstrate.

Your pattern says to pick up 200 stitches (or to crochet evenly across for a total of 200 stitches).

Divide the piece into sections. Fold it in half and you have the center. Mark the center with a stitch marker or a scrap of yarn. You now have two sections. Fold each section in half and place markers at the center of each. You now have four sections. Fold these sections in half and place markers. You would now have 8 sections.

Now, divide the original number by the 8 sections. 200 divided by 8. That’s 25 stitches.

Begin placement of your stitches, making 25 stitches in each section. Trying to put 25 stitches in each section is far easier than trying to put 200 all the way across.

If your number doesn’t divide as equally, you’ll have to put one more or one less stitch into some of the sections. But, this is easy.

If you needed 204 stitches evenly across, for instance, you would put 25 stitches in 4 sections and 26 stitches in the other 4 sections, perhaps splitting them up for 26, 25, 26, 25, 26, 25, 26, 25.

If your pattern says to simply pick up stitches evenly and gives you no number, it is helpful to do a gauge swatch to determine how many stitches per inch you are supposed to have. Then, measure across the space where you want to place the stitches. Determine how many stitches *should* be in that space, then use the above steps to finish.