Tropical Paradise Crossbody Bag – Free Pattern

I love bags…crochet bags, thirty-one bags, reusable grocery bags – can anyone really have TOO many bags? Not I! Here is my most recent bag…this one I have plans for but I suspect like many of the others it will become my next crochet project bag 😉 I have included an inner pocket to put my keys or cell phone inside – it also has a pretty little flowery ‘insert’ stitch pattern at the midpoint. I didn’t want it to be too low though – I wanted to be sure small things would NOT fall out of my bag. If you don’t like the flowery bit it is easy to skip – you can simply replace it with a few (three) rounds of half double crochet.

This bag is crocheted with 1 single ball of Caron Cakes Yarn.

The edging around on the bag is made using a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) which is a stitch that did take me a little bit of time to master. If you have not yet mastered this technique I have linked to a tutorial my friend Kinga did for her version which is much easier 🙂

Tropical Paradise Crossbody Bag

Supplies

Difficulty Level

EASY

MY OTHER CROCHET VIDEO TUTORIALS

Finished Size

13 inches wide

9 inches tall at center not counting straps

Gauge

11 hdc in 3 inches

6 rounds hdc in 2 inches

Abbreviations

US Terminology used

2-dc cluster – is the same as dc2tog but all worked in one stitch or chain space 3-dc cluster – is the same as dc3tog but all worked in one stitch or chain space ch – chain ch1sp – chain 1 space ch2sp – chain 2 space dc – double crochet hdc – half double crochet R – row/round rem – remaining rep – repeatrev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch) sc – single crochet sk – skip sl st – slip stitch st/sts – stitch/stitches * – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated. This repeat will contain of multiple instructions. () – Repeat the instructions between the parentheses the number of times indicated. [] – at the end of the row – the total number of stitches

Helpful Tutorials

Notes

The ch 2 is listed at the beg of each row or round because it counts as a stitch for the round it is written in.

Tropical Paradise Crossbody Bag Pattern Instructions

Making the Inside Pocket (optional)

R1: Ch 20, 1 hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and each rem ch across. Ch 1, rotate your work to add 1 hdc in the edge of the row, rotate your work and crochet 1 hdc in the rem loop of each ch across, ch 1, rotate your work to add 1 hdc in the edge of the row. [40]

We will now be working around this section in continuous rounds. From this point on you may want to use a stitch marker to mark your position.

R2: 1 hdc in each st around. [40]

R3-R10: Rep R2

R11: 1 hdc in each of the next 5, sk all rem sts, turn. [5]

R12: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 19 hdc. Finish off and weave in ends. [20]

Making the bag

Starting at the bottom of the bag and working in rows:

R1: Ch 30. Beg in the 3rd ch from the hook (the sk 2 chs count as 1 hdc) and work 1 hdc in each st across. Turn. [29]

R2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), 1 hdc in each st across. Turn. [29]

R3 – R12: Rep R2

We will now continue by working around the rectangle you created in rounds. From this point on you may want to use a stitch marker to mark your position.

R1: Start here: 1 hdc in the corner; 13 hdc evenly across the side edge (row ends); 1 hdc in the corner, 29 hdc evenly across the bottom edge; 1 hdc in the corner, 13 hdc evenly along the side edge (row ends); 1 hdc in the corner and 29 hdc across R12. [88]

We are working in continuous rounds which means there is no slip stitch to join and no ch 2 at the beg of every round.

Note: If you would prefer to have the seam created by the sl st to join and ch 2 please feel free to use it but remember the ch 2 will count as your first st; so do not work a 2nd hdc in the base of it or else you will increase the number of stitches on every round.

R2: 1 hdc in each st around. [88]

R3-R10: Rep R2

For R11-R13 we are working in rows. You will be told when to turn. See the stitch pattern video tutorial.

R11: 1 sc in the next st, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 3). Work a 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook; sk the first 3 hdc and work 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, sk the next hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from hook, sk next 2 hdc; 1 dc in the next hdc. *Ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook, sk the next 2 hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, sk the next hdc, work a 3-dc cluster in the next hdc, ch 3, work 2-dc cluster in the third ch from the hook, sk the next 2 hdc, 1 dc in the next hdc**. Rep from * to **, sk the final hdc and end by working a sl st in the initial ch3sp. Turn.

R12: Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc plus ch 2). You beg this row by working in the 3-dc cluster. Work (3-dc cluster, ch 1, 3-dc cluster) in the 3-dc cluster, ch 2, sk the next chsp; 1 dc in the next dc. *Ch 2, sk the next chsp, work (3-dc cluster, ch 1, 3-dc cluster) in the next 3-dc cluster; ch 2, sk the next chsp, 1 dc in the next dc**. Rep from * to ** across, ending with a sl st in the initial ch5sp. Turn.

R13: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc). *2 hdc in ch2sp, 1 hdc in the next 3-dc cluster, 1 hdc in the next ch1sp, 1 hdc in next 3-dc cluster, 2 hdc in next ch2sp, 1 hdc in next dc**. Rep from * to ** across, ending with a sl st to the top of the initial ch2 to join. [88]

We are working in continuous rounds starting in R14.

R14: 1 hdc in each st around. [88]

R15-R19: Rep R14; finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends.

Place your bag on a flat surface and find the ‘approximate’ middle stitch on the front and back of your bag. Place a stitch marker in these two spots (or tie a piece of yarn in a different color).

You will have 44 stitches on each side (from point A to B); 22 on the front of the bag and 22 on the back of the bag.

Next we will begin working one side (left) in rows, back and forth to create half the strap.

Strap 1

R1: Rejoin your yarn in the middle stitch with 1 hdc. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 43 sts. Ch 1, turn. [44]

Lovely comments

Hi Kathie, Actually I didn’t – which probably just came down to luck. I crocheted the inside pocket first and then just started the bag from the bottom up…there are couple ‘color blips’ one fell just under the back closure section (luckily!) and there is one on the front between the pink and purple rounds – maybe the brightness of the colors helps distract the eyes from the blips a bit? not sure but this was totally luck! I have for a different pattern actually cut out a small section of one color to make it work better for my project though. I just found it awfully distracting having a short strip of one color at this one section so I removed it and didn’t use it at all.

I love the caron cakes but my rows never start and stop where I want them to. Yours look so nice. Each section is only one coloro and the next color doesn’t interfere with the section. How do you do it? Do you cut away sections of the yarn so you can continue in the “correct” color?

We use cookies to personalize content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyze our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners who may combine it with other information you’ve provided to them, or they’ve collected from your use of their services. By using our website you consent to all cookies. See our Privacy Policy to learn more, including your choices.AcceptRejectLearn More