Comments to beta 0.11 Chris Sorrows - using the good old paper to take notes.Generally - very good manual so far...

Page 1. Add date to version Not needed

Page 12 - Take care to orient the plate correctly. Some kind of text, you could reverse the plate if you don't take care.Already noted

Page 13 - Should the internal L-bracket be fastened with some Set-screws?changed grub screw to set screw which was already mentioned

Page 12 - From M5x30 to M5x40 - i believe this has been updated,as I got the long screwyup, got it

Page 15 - Minor thing. The hexagonal holes should have the sharp edge facing up (the picture shows, but you can get it wrong, making the printer look a bit less cool.... )added

Page 16 - Should the corner brackets be fastened with Set-screws?yup, added

Page 20 - Why not reverse the middle M5 Nylock so that it us level with the ACM? (I was missing some in the kit i believe)the nylocks only thread on one direction

Page 22 - Check width of the assembly between the vertical acm plates so that it matches the width between the carriages on the linear railsnoted on the next page

Page 32 - at this point the lead screws has not been installed, but it is still shown as installed with the pulleys on.they were installed on the previous page??

Page 48 - The screws for the level sensor is in the bag with the sensor. Took me a while to find them. The holes didn't match up entirely but with a bit of tampering, I succeded.it says "supplied hardware" and the size is listed for reference

Page 49 - I suggest to put on the belt before the assembly is carried out, as you cannot get the belt in place as suggested in page 50.this would be very difficult to get the tension tight enough and get it assembled as there is not much adjustment. im leaving it as is.

Page 61Picture from above as it is hard to see where the wire should go (I can see that it the two furtherst away is plus, and then two negative, but potentially, one could mix it up)agreed, changed the angle

Page 62. The wire that was cut off the thermistor, did in my case not have a plug. I had to cut off from another thermistor (that was supplied in the kit though) weird, they are supposed to. yours must have been a dud

Page 64. Should be more clear that it is not the longest that foes to the extruders, that should be used hereas this is the general assembly, and the long ones are only included in the dual kit, this would add confusion

Page 66 - same as on page 64same as page 64

Page 75 - what size wire to be used. I assumed it was the thin one (there was some of the thick left)noted to use the thin wires

Page 81. I used both of the mounting tapes for this as I assumed to use both due to the size of board. I should have saved one for the buck converter. Further, one also got to take into consideration ther hdmi-cable should be installable. If the OrangPi is mounted to much to the right (seeing from the front), then it will not fit.noted to only use one piece of tape. as stated in the step, you are to plug them in then mount the board making sure there is clearance. This is why it says to plug them in first.

Page 84. Installing the cables into the PSU is difficult. This should be done prior the top is installed.unfortunately, with the flow of the assembly, this would not make sense as it is installed in the prior section

Is the Electronic bay gonna go Cabriolet style, or will we close it? this step should be in the setup guide as we need it left open for that process

The heatsinks for the stepper drivers are not mentioned. They should be mentioned somewhere in the end of the manual.added the step at the end of the single and dual sections

All in all very well done with the manual. Having worked professionally with Installation and Operation manuals for offshore construction, I can say you did a splendid job.

Here's what I have so far. Overall I haven't had any issues following it (I've just gotten the hot end mounted) so I'd have to say it's looking pretty good. I do lots of mechanical stuff but this is really the first time I've built a printer from a kit as opposed to getting someone else's frustrations on the cheap and debugging it. There's always a line you walk between trying to help a completely inexperienced person put something together vs someone who sort of already knows what they are doing. Since this is really my first printer kit, but as a pretty experienced woodworker, I guess I'm probably somewhere in the middle.

Some of this is sort of kit feedback too, but it affects the manual as well...

General comment: The heads of the screws are all shown as round-head. Assuming they are consistent in the kits, it's a point of confusion when the only ones you can find are of a different head than shown. I first was bothered by this on the Z3 (p11) and Z4 (p12) steps.added a note in the beginning that some things including bolt heads may be different

There is a call for an M5x30 on step Z4 (p12), but the only thing in my kit was an M5x40, which works.changed the 30mm to 40mm as it has been updated

I had never heard the term "grub screw" in step F1 (p13) and they were not pictured in the hardware section. I eventually figured it out. I'd call them "set screws" but as long as they are pictured I don't think it matters so much what you call them.as noted above, they are called both names. I changed it to 'set screw' to remove confusion

F4 (p16) is kind of tricky to do on your own. I ended up assembling the top square and lightly setting the set, er. grub screws so I could set it on top. I then checked for square around the top and tightened the ones along the top down. I then put all the brackets on and just got them halfway tight then squared the verticals. It might save some frustrations (in terms of customer and support) if someone could suggest a more step-by-step method of squaring it all up. I also used a rafter square.this is the only time I have seen this complaint. As it will take a bit of work to break it up, i'll keep an eye on feedback and might change it at a later date

F6 (p18)... I've bashed myself on this thing numerous times. I'd suggest it be one of the last things in the manual.added a note to maybe mount it at the end as it could get in the way. There is not really anywhere in a last step to move it to in the current layout

Later on, in looking back on Y2 (p22), I had to scoot the rail over slightly ~55mm vs 50mm when I installed the motor. I'm thinking that putting the spacing measurement on the illustration would be nice.

On Y5 (p25), M3x16 are too long. I had some M3x12 and they worked.i was requested to remove all of the M3 x 12mm bolts from the build. I do agree but I'm not in charge of the hardware