Yes the connector was solidly affixed to the NTC. No corrosion either. The NTC gave good readings.

All wires were disconnected from the heating element; including the NTC and ground wire. Zero reading.

I tried a resistance check from the CCU connector back to the NTC - itcame back zero. It was difficult trying to get the testers contacts onthe connectors contacts though. I checked the wire as best as Icould. The wire is zip-tied and in a raceway so its difficult to seeif there is a flaw in the wire.

Also, since the previous heating element came back with a zero readingI recently purchased a new heating element from Sear Parts online. Themachine will now operate in both cold and warm cycles, whereas with theprevious heating element the machine would run on cold cycles only. The machine does not, however, run on hot cycles - still the F05 errorafter a few minutes.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Jim

Yes, the washer was powered down.

Yes the connector was solidly affixed to the NTC. No corrosion either. The NTC gave good readings.

All wires were disconnected from the heating element; including the NTC and ground wire. Zero reading.

I tried a resistance check from the CCU connector back to the NTC - it
came back zero. It was difficult trying to get the testers contacts on
the connectors contacts though. I checked the wire as best as I
could. The wire is zip-tied and in a raceway so its difficult to see
if there is a flaw in the wire.

Also, since the previous heating element came back with a zero reading
I recently purchased a new heating element from Sear Parts online. The
machine will now operate in both cold and warm cycles, whereas with the
previous heating element the machine would run on cold cycles only.
The machine does not, however, run on hot cycles - still the F05 error
after a few minutes.

I rechecked the heating element. Turns out I got a zero reading on the new one too. When my voltmeter is set to 20K Ohms it gives me the proper reading for the NTC but not the heating element. After some trial and error I noticed that I need to adjust the meter setting to a symbol that has a right-facing arrow pointed toward a plus sign. (Just FYI, if that matters. The tester is a Greenlee DM-50).

I checked both the new and old Heating Elements and NTC's. The old one reads 16 and 10 respectively.The new one reads 15 and 11 respectively.

The house is about 84 degrees during the test.

Knowing this I'm wondering, in all my noviceness, if it's either the CCU or the wiring.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Jim

Thanks for the quick response.

Yes, when the machine F05's during a hot wash the water is hot.

I did the solenoid test. 822 on both.

I rechecked the heating element. Turns out I got a zero reading on the new one too. When my voltmeter is set to 20K Ohms it gives me the proper reading for the NTC but not the heating element. After some trial and error I noticed that I need to adjust the meter setting to a symbol that has a right-facing arrow pointed toward a plus sign. (Just FYI, if that matters. The tester is a Greenlee DM-50).

I checked both the new and old Heating Elements and NTC's. The old one reads 16 and 10 respectively.The new one reads 15 and 11 respectively.

The house is about 84 degrees during the test.

Knowing this I'm wondering, in all my noviceness, if it's either the CCU or the wiring.

I found it hard to fathom that it could be the wire - seeing as how it is so secured via zip-ties and protective raceways. But I noticed that one of the NTC's wires was slacked and the other was pulled tight. I laid on the floor and looked up inside the machine. Almost directly behind the door handle was a screw on the drum which somehow had one of the NTC wires behind it. When I dislodged it I could feel the PVC jacket was worn, wire exposed, and the wire feels pretty much broken within it. So I think it's safe to assume that's the culprit. I'll get a coupler and do a little cut and splice.

I wanted to let you know the outcome and thank you guys for your help.

JimFound it!

I found it hard to fathom that it could be the wire - seeing as how it is so secured via zip-ties and protective raceways. But I noticed that one of the NTC's wires was slacked and the other was pulled tight. I laid on the floor and looked up inside the machine. Almost directly behind the door handle was a screw on the drum which somehow had one of the NTC wires behind it. When I dislodged it I could feel the PVC jacket was worn, wire exposed, and the wire feels pretty much broken within it. So I think it's safe to assume that's the culprit. I'll get a coupler and do a little cut and splice.

I wanted to let you know the outcome and thank you guys for your help.

First of all, make sure you unplug the washer before making any measures, and make sure you unplug any connectors from the CCU, so you aren't reading parallel paths. Isolate the components you wish to test from the CCU or you may get inaccurate readings.

The reading across the heating element terminal should read 15 ohms. Make sure you aren't grounding your probe against the case, or you will get improper readings.

The NTC will read approximately what you have at room temperature. Was the connector plugged in before you began troubleshooting? A common problem is the connector falling off and generating the error code.

As far as the connector plug on the CCU is concerned, plug layouts can differ between models. Make sure you have the correct connector plug to the NTC. You may have to hand over hand it to find it. Unplug the connector at the CCU and leave it plugged in to the NTC. Perform a resistance check across the PLUG terminals. You should get the same readings as you mentioned before if the plug and wires are good. This not checks the resistance of the NTC, but also proves continuity of the wires.

Doublecheck your readings and let me know what you have. I would like to rule out a CCU problem. It is not common for this error code. I hope this helps you.

Okay...do you have any water coming into the washer when a HOT cycle is selected? There is a water inlet valve that has two solenoids that control water flow when the washer fills. One solenoid controls COLD water flow, while the other controls HOT water flow. On a warm water cycle, a combination of botyh solenoids are used to make warm water. You may have a water inlet valve problem where the hot solenoid no longer works. That is why it may appear to be working on COLD and WARM cycles, because the cold water solenoid is still allowing water to flow. Even though the washer has a separate heating element, the element is used to super heat the water for sanitary cycles and cleaner results for removing stains.

Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. Once the screws are removed, the panel will slide back, then off. The fill valve is located in the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). A resistance reading across the solenoids should be about 800 ohms.

Let me know if this helps you.Okay...do you have any water coming into the washer when a HOT cycle is selected? There is a water inlet valve that has two solenoids that control water flow when the washer fills. One solenoid controls COLD water flow, while the other controls HOT water flow. On a warm water cycle, a combination of botyh solenoids are used to make warm water. You may have a water inlet valve problem where the hot solenoid no longer works. That is why it may appear to be working on COLD and WARM cycles, because the cold water solenoid is still allowing water to flow. Even though the washer has a separate heating element, the element is used to super heat the water for sanitary cycles and cleaner results for removing stains.

Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. Once the screws are removed, the panel will slide back, then off. The fill valve is located in the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). A resistance reading across the solenoids should be about 800 ohms.

You're one step ahead of me...the wiring and/or CCU are the only logical choices left if you've confirmed everything else. The water inlet valve solenoids appear to be good and water is flowing. That was a long shot anyway...

The heating element solenoid is connector 9 on the CCU. This is the 2nd connector from the right on the front of the CCU. The way you can confirm the wiring is to leave the connections plugged in at the heating element, remove the connnector from the CCU, and take a resistance reading across the pins of the connector plug. If you read a resistance of approximately 15 ohms, this confirms the wiring is good to the heating element. If you've already confirmed this, the only thing left is the CCU itself.

Sorry to keep having you chase your tail on this matter. I admire your diligence, though. I hope this helps confirm something for you.

PS The other scale you are talking about on your multimeter is a continuity checker. This is great for checking wire runs and the biasing of certain semiconductors, but it can give misleading readings when a resistance needs to be confirmed.You're one step ahead of me...the wiring and/or CCU are the only logical choices left if you've confirmed everything else. The water inlet valve solenoids appear to be good and water is flowing. That was a long shot anyway...

The heating element solenoid is connector 9 on the CCU. This is the 2nd connector from the right on the front of the CCU. The way you can confirm the wiring is to leave the connections plugged in at the heating element, remove the connnector from the CCU, and take a resistance reading across the pins of the connector plug. If you read a resistance of approximately 15 ohms, this confirms the wiring is good to the heating element. If you've already confirmed this, the only thing left is the CCU itself.

Sorry to keep having you chase your tail on this matter. I admire your diligence, though. I hope this helps confirm something for you.

PS The other scale you are talking about on your multimeter is a continuity checker. This is great for checking wire runs and the biasing of certain semiconductors, but it can give misleading readings when a resistance needs to be confirmed.

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Related Questions:

Code F05Description:Water temperature sensor error. If during the water heating step in the wash cycle, the water temperature sensor (NTC) value is out of range, the "F05" error code will be displayed.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor.If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals.It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear.Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off.Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub.Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front).A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor.If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals.It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear.Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off.Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub.Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front).A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

I hope this information if found to be helpful.If you have questions, or need assistance locating parts, please click on the following link and use the “ASK ME” feature for a quicker response.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.&&&&

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.@@@@

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!!

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor.If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals.It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear.Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off.Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub.Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front).A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

"F5" is a Temperature sensor (NTC) error. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608669-f05_error_code
The NTC, or temperature sensor, is located under the bottom front of the wash tub. It is a small square black plug between the heating element terminals. In many cases the connector plug comes loose and simply needs to be reconnected.

If the NTC is defective, a replacement can be purchased at any of the following websites: