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“The otak-otak was as close as a man should get to sucking a fishmongers insole”

I do not know how many readers I have in Borneo. Probably not all that many. In fact, readers of this column are almost certainly the only species of large primate that is thinner on the ground in those parts than the orang-utan. Though I do not blame illegal logging, palm oil plantations, the China Development Bank, big business in Jakarta or the Malaysian plywood industry for it. It’s because it’s so humid in Borneo that The Times Magazine gets very soggy, and all you can read before it falls apart is the front and back pages. Robert Crampton is