Subscribed! I feel the same way about paying outrageous prices for certain things! I was thinking 3 bayou classic stock pots (blichmann way to pricey), copper dip tubes/HERMS coil, and spend the extra on the spa panel/control panel, as thats the most important piece of the puzzle! Be watching this thread, so i can see how it works out for you!

Agreed....I don't think that 3 little brass fittings in my entire system is a big deal. Many would argue that someone who is spending this kind of money on brewing equipment, should just bite the bullet and go all stainless, but if I can save 85% in a couple cases on brass as opposed to SS, then it makes sense to me. I can devote more funds towards the controls.

Welcome to the Electric crew. I love my electric 3 keg beer machine. I ended up using a 2500W in my HLT and a 4500W RIPP element in the BK. If there's anything I can share with you please don't hesitate to ask.

Here's a pic of the rig with the DIY ventilation set up

I'm already aware this is a stupid question, because I know what it is just not what it's called. But what's the official name of the insulation around your keggles called? What temperature is it rated for? I'm looking to build a system similar to yours and wanted this insulation for at least my HLT and MLT.

I'm already aware this is a stupid question, because I know what it is just not what it's called. But what's the official name of the insulation around your keggles called? What temperature is it rated for? I'm looking to build a system similar to yours and wanted this insulation for at least my HLT and MLT.

Is it also fireproof?
I would like mine insulated but I have a banjo burner under the kettle.

Finally got my first keg the other day. Working nights this week, so I don't think I am gonna get much keggle building done. Will have to wait for this next weekend before I can start getting closer to this kind of dream build!

__________________Put it all in the primary, and let the BeerGods sort it out

I'm resurrecting this old thread and apologize fo such a long delay in the process. I have been elbows deep in so many other builds (theads in my siganature line) that I still haven't gotten to my keggle conversions........ UNTIL NOW!

OK, so here's the deal. I am still going with a 3 vessel HERMs system and am awaiting my final order with Bobby for my remaining pieces and parts. Hopefully sometime soon I will have all of the remaining fittings to proceed with the keggle conversions including all of the bulkheads, site glasses, chugger pumps, etc. I already had the HERMs coil, 3 piece ball valves, 5500w heating elements, etc. So I am still going to complete all of the keggle conversions per Kal on www.theelectricbrewery.com. As soon as I receive my order I will have everything needed.....except for the elusive control panel, which I still haven't talked my wife into letting me purchase. I have also been exploring other options as well, such as the BCS control system, Brewtroller, etc. Regarless of what controls I ultimately end up with, I am still doing a HERMs system and set up like Kal's.

I started punching some holes in my kegs this evening. Since I am using sanke kegs (not Blichmann's like Kal used) I followed the advice of Bobby at Brew Hardware and positioned my main drainage ports 1" on center above the lowest skirt weld on the kegs. I punched the 3 holes, one in each vessel with a 7/8" Greenlee punch with no problems.....nice clean holes. My wife was nice enough to buy me a PICO false bottom for my MLT and the port is comfortably below the false bottom as recommended by the manufacturer. I will next drill the holes (I don't have a 9/16" punch) for the site glasses at 5/8" to 1" above the lowest skirt weld as well (as recommended by Bobby), so no problem there. My biggest concern at this point is with the height in which I should place the holes for the 5500w heating elements and the HERM's coil.

I plan on doing 10 gallon batches for the most part, but who knows, maybe I would like to do the occassional 5 gallon test batch. I want the elements to be placed at a height that will allow for both. I want to make sure that the element doesn't interfere with the drainage port/dip tube or the HERMs coil in the HLT. I also need to make sure that the element in BK doesn't interfere with the drainage port/dip tube/hop filter, but still allows for an occassional 5 gallon batch. The problem that I am running into is that I'm trying to merge both Bobby and Kal's recommendations into an electric HERMs set up using keggles. I really don't want to screw this up, because I have already spent hours cleaning up and polishing keggles and really don't want to start over due to a bone headed error.

If you have ever created a Kal clone with keggles, please, please, please give me some advice on proper height placements for these components. Thank you in advance for you help!

Since I have resurrected this old thread, I'll probably chronicle the keg conversions here, but I have another thread covering the actual brewery build here.

Still awaiting my order from Bobby, but it has shipped, so any day now! Here are a few pics. I punched the holes for the main weldless bulkhead drainage ports with the Greenlee.....worked great. I'll punch the holes for the HERMs coil and recirculation ports today with the same 7/8" punch. I'll wait for my step bits from Bobby to drill out the site glass ports and the larger holes for the heating elements. I also posted a pic of the new PICO false bottom and stand (I'm leaving the protective film on it for now) that my wife bought me for Christmas. It was between this one and the JayBird.....guess she made the decision for me. I also decided that my cannibalized wort chiller would not make a suitable HERMs coil. It is only 25 ft. long and 3/8" od copper. I purchased a 50 ft. long coil of 1/2" od copper and formed the coil this weekend. I used an old mortar bucket, which yielded a perfect 11 1/2" od coil and since my R/O for the lid is 12" it worked out perfectly. I'm really hoping for the remaining parts to get here soon.

P.S. I'm doing a lot more research on the BCS 640 control module compared to a full blown Kal clone panel. I asked this in my last post, but if anyone has used the BCS on a Kal clone HERMs system....please let me know.