Installing doors can be a difficult task if you're not armed with the proper information before you start your project. Getting a few tips and tricks, as well as knowing what tools to use will put you well on your way to a successful project.

Steps

Method1

Removing the Old Door

1

Break apart the caulking on the trim of the door. Do this by gently slicing through it with the corner of a chisel, moving around the length of the door frame. This way, less paint is stretched or removed along with the trim.

Remove any trim surrounding the door frame. You can do this carefully with a hammer and chisel. Wedge your chisel between the trim and the wall. Next, gently hammer the chisel into position. Finally, move the chisel back and forth to loosen the trim. Set aside the trim, either for re-application later or for discarding.

Once the nails and screws have been removed, close the door and tip it back toward the direction in which you removed the trim. The door should fall easily through the opening. Having a friend or family member nearby to help you with this step is recommended, especially if the door and frame are heavy.

Method2

Prepping the Site and the Door

1

Start by checking your rough opening. This is the width and height of the measurements between the rough framing. Rough openings need to be 2 inches (5 cm) wider and 2 1/2 inches (5.7 cm) taller than the actual door size you will be installing. If it's too big or small you will need to correct it; otherwise it will make for a difficult installation.

Prep the door for installation. Remove any packing or shipping bands that are still attached to the door. Sleeves on the sides of doors should also be removed. Remove the lock brace from the side of the door; failure to do this now will result in a whole lot of hassle later.

Method3

Installing the New Door Using Brackets

1

Use a bracket system for efficient hanging of doors. Brackets leave doors hanging very true. They are easy to install with one person and will could your time installing time in half. Brackets will also allow you to easily adjust the door clearances, should you need to.

Using a 4- or 6 foot (1.2 - 1.8 m) level, draw a vertical plumb line on the drywall 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) in from the rough opening. This line must be on the hinge side and in the room the door swings into.

Make sure that the vertical line is both straight and level. A straight line that is not level with the bottom of the floor will leave a door that doesn't swing true.

3

Screw three brackets to back of door frame, beside the hinges. Using the 1/2” (1.27 cm) screws provided, install brackets beside each hinge, making sure that they're even with the edge of the door frame.

Getting the brackets right next to the hinges is extremely important. The hinges are the pressure points of the door, and improperly installed brackets that are out of line with the hinges will eventually cause the door to fall out of plumb.

4

Screw the other three brackets on the latch side of the door. Start 8” (20 cm) down from the top, and then once again 1” (2.5 cm) above the latch hole, and a final bracket 6" to 8” (15 to 20 cm) up from the bottom of the door. The final bracket, if there is one, is recommended for the top, on doors 30” and wider. The door is now ready to insert in the rough opening.

Screw the door to the wall using the drywall screws provided. Work your way down the hinge side of the door, starting at the top, and making sure to use the same line for each of the three hinge brackets.

Next, check the clearance between the frame and the door on the top and knob side. Take care to make sure they are equal. It's easier to unscrew the drywall screws at this point than after the final screws are already embedded in the drywall.

Starting at the top again and working down, continue screwing the screws into the your brackets on the latch side. Keep the clearance between the frame and door equal as you screw the door to the wall with the drywall screws.

Install any trim over top of the brackets. Most trim will have hollowed out backside, which will both allow the brackets to fit underneath and conceal them. If your trim doesn't have a hollowed out backside, you may need to hammer the brackets into the drywall just a little.

Check that the door is completely straight and plump with a 6 foot (182 cm) level. This part is all about using the level to test whether your placement is straight and level. If it's not, you'll need to adjust the shims in order to get a straight fit.

Drill pilot holes through the doorstop and shims at the upper, middle, and lower shims on the latch side. Finish the process by hammering in nails at the pilot holes, checking all the while that the jamb is still straight and level.

Put shims into two locations at the top of the door frame. Drill pilot holes into the shims at the top of the door frame and then secure them with one nail each. Check to see that the door and the door frame are evenly spaced.

Break off any portion of the shims that are protruding from the door jamb. Break off either with a hammer or a balled-up fist. File or sand down any small, jagged pieces that may be tougher to get at with a larger implement.