By choosing to post the reply below you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Message:

Trackback:

Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Post Icons

You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:

No icon

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register. Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the'Submit Reply' button below

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Click here to view the posting rules you are bound to when clicking the'Submit Reply' button below

Topic Review (Newest First)

11-17-2012 08:34 PM

seabrookedan

staylok/norseman

Staylocs and norsemans are expesive but they can be easily replaced at sea if u break a shroud and have extra wire onboard.

11-17-2012 08:28 PM

seabrookedan

I just replaced all mine myself. I did them 1-2 at a time. Fore and backstay 1 @ a tm and uppers and mids 2@a time(frst one side than the other).i took them dwn to local rigging shop and installed myself on my 33ftr. You just need to make damn sure u secure it good. In my case i also redid my deck mounts. I ran line under the hull to other side of bt. I also used a wisker pole as a big spreader and hung a big shot of line and two anchors from it as a counter weight. Whatever u do, dnt tie to dock if ur in a slip. I have pics of whole process on my fb timeline. If interested look up daniel warren on fb. It was done in july i believe. A come along comes in real handy too. Remember you will hv to climb to the top to hook it up, so you want it as tight as ur normal rigging. Line stretches. Spectra is best. Line under hull shld be secured fore and aft as well so it doesnt slide either direction. Its super easy. Only the fear of heights was difficult for me!

11-17-2012 12:34 PM

svHyLyte

Re: Rigging

Quote:

Originally Posted by Faster

My first recommendation would be to remove the rigging, package it up and drive/ship it to SNer Knothead, have them remade properly and then reinstall them yourself.

My second would be to do the same with any other reputable local rigger. You don't need to pay a pro $100/hr to remove cotter pins and unscrew turnbuckles. Even removing the mast can be DIY except for the hoist/crane but that depends on your comfort level and the facilities at hand. If you do tackle this yourself be sure to remember any internal wiring connections (often hidden).

Another recommendation I've heard is to have the rigging fabricated with swaged upper terminals, and do the lower deck level terminals with norseman or stayloc style... I've never used them but didn't think special tools were required?

Absolutely correct. Stay the mast with halyards and lifts. Moreover, you needn't do all the wire at one time in case you don't have adequate halyards and lifts to remove all the shrouds and still have a halyard to reach the hounds.

11-17-2012 11:45 AM

Faster

Re: Rigging

My first recommendation would be to remove the rigging, package it up and drive/ship it to SNer Knothead, have them remade properly and then reinstall them yourself.

My second would be to do the same with any other reputable local rigger. You don't need to pay a pro $100/hr to remove cotter pins and unscrew turnbuckles. Even removing the mast can be DIY except for the hoist/crane but that depends on your comfort level and the facilities at hand. If you do tackle this yourself be sure to remember any internal wiring connections (often hidden).

Another recommendation I've heard is to have the rigging fabricated with swaged upper terminals, and do the lower deck level terminals with norseman or stayloc style... I've never used them but didn't think special tools were required?

11-17-2012 07:51 AM

jamesnewsome

Rigging

I am ready to replace the standing rigging on my Seafarer 29 and looking for recommendations from folks who have done this before. A few folks I know have suggested that I do it myself with Stay-Loc or Norseman systems, and while I'm not ruling it out I can't see a significant savings considering I'd have to purchase the tools. I look forward to hearing from you.