Ribadesella, Spain: Secret Seaside

Where is this beach? Asturias, north coast of Spain; 62 miles east of Asturias airport.

Who’s it good for? Suits mature couples and families with young children.

What is there to do? For strolling, surfing, sunbathing, kayaking on the river Sella, and outdoor excursions into the spectacular Picos de Europa mountains.

What makes it special? Within a mile of the World Heritage-listed Cueva de Tito Bustillo, embellished with some of Spain’s most magnificent prehistoric cave art.

It’s a well-guarded secret that Spain’s most beautiful beaches are tucked away on its untamed and unspoilt northern coast. Nowhere does this ring truer than in dramatic Asturias, where bold rocky cliffs cascade down into the wild waters of the Bay of Biscay, the jagged Picos de Europa soar up just a few miles inland, and sandy strands entice surfers and sunbathers alike. Spaniards have long been in on the local scope and, come summer, seek out the sun on the 200-plus beachy coves sprinkled along this superb, emerald coastal stretch.

Right in the heart of it all is the friendly, unfussed fishing town of Ribadesella, carved in half by the mouth of the Sella river and fronted on the west side by golden, graceful Playa de Santa Marina. As you stroll along the popular pedestrian promenade that bounds this serene kilometre-long sweep, encased by two grassy headlands, you’ll feel a world away from the packed-out resort eyesores for which Spain has become notorious– and that’s what this place is all about. Curving around then stretching west from the Sella delta, Santa Marina’s broad, silky sands and gently lapping waters snuck by pretty much untouched until the 19th century, when a low-slung bridge brought Ribadesella across the river. Today, exquisitely elaborate late-19th- and early-20th-century Indiano mansions – built by returning emigrants who had made their fortunes in the Americas – throw lashings of colour into the understated beachfront resort area.

Over on the river’s eastern shores, old-town Ribadesella weaves its own little network of pretty plazas and narrow streets. Photo: AP

But despite a dash of development, this sparkling strip remains a favourite retreat of well-versed Spanish families, particularly those entertaining young children. Shady spots are lacking though, so pack the beach brolly. For active souls, there are seaside activities aplenty, including surfing and sailing sessions and kayak rides on the Sella, culminating in the jam-packed early-August Descenso Internacional del Sella kayaking festival.

Over on the river’s eastern shores, old-town Ribadesella weaves its own little network of pretty plazas and narrow streets, which creep out onto the old fishing harbour. Food lovers are in for a treat here: the Bay of Biscay and Asturias’s rivers yield sensational fresh fish and seafood, while the backdrop Picos de Europa offer up a whole array of tangy, pungent blue cheeses, which are not for the fainthearted. And with Asturias as Spain’s main cider producer, cider-drinking in this region constitutes a whole art unto itself. Just try the old town’s bubbly waterfront sidrerίas, where skilful escanciadores (cider pourers) artfully decant fizzing local brews from high above as customers tuck into the catch of the day. “A little cider, señorita?” I’m asked, and then, before I’ve even begun to think about answering, '¡Pues claro!’ ('But of course!’)

Did you know?

Ribadesella marks the eastern edge of Asturias’s Jurassic Coast, so named for its smattering of dinosaur fossils: look for tell-tale footprints etched into the rocks at the western end of Santa Marina beach.

Just over half a mile (or a 10-minute stroll) inland from Santa Marina beach, on the estuary’s western edge, lies Ribadesella’s most curious attraction: the outstanding, Unesco World Heritage site of Cueva de Tito Bustillo. This cave’s eerie interior is lined with prehistoric depictions dating back as far as 35,000 years. Intricately outlined in black and ochre, these fascinating symbols – mostly horses, bison, and reindeer – make for some of the finest and oldest cave art in the world. Visits are restricted by daily numbers and age (no children under 7), so book ahead (0034902306600; centrotitobustillo.com; April-October).

The Cueva de Tito Bustillo has prehistoric depictions. Photo: Alamy

There’s certainly no Ibiza chic to these parts, but that’s precisely the point: between its handsome sweeping seafront, enchanting history, and glorious natural surroundings, Ribadesella proves the perfect spot for really kicking back beachside, with a generous sprinkling of culture and adventure thrown into the mix. Just remember to check the weather forecast beforehand: those lush green-clad lands don’t grow themselves.

The essentials

GETTING THERE

EasyJet (08431045000; easyjet.com) operates between London Stansted and Asturias between April and February. Ryanair (08712460000; ryanair.com) flies to Santander (75 miles east of Ribadesella) from Stansted and Edinburgh between April-October.

Avis (08082845566; avis.co.uk) and Europcar (08713849900; europcar.co.uk) rent vehicles from around £200 per week at both airports.

LD Lines (08445768836; ldlines.co.uk) sails from Poole to Santander and Gijόn (38 miles from Ribadesella) from £399 return for two with cabin and car. Brittany Ferries (08712441411; brittany-ferries.co.uk) offers similar one-way crossings from Plymouth and Portsmouth to Santander from £274 or £169 aboard its économie service.

WHERE TO STAY

Ribadesella Playa This 1900s villa lives up to its name with its unbeatable beachside position. Richly-coloured rooms show contemporary design, and there’s a pretty sea-facing garden. Doubles from £103 including breakfast (0034985860715; hotelribadesellaplaya.com).

Villa Rosario Grand, comfy rooms and great breakfast spreads in a turreted 1914 mansion overlooking the beach. Book into the original manor rather than its modern sister block across the road. Doubles from £147 including breakfast (0034985860090; hotelvillarosario.com).

Carroceu A low-key waterfront cider bar, but one that welcomes children and also serves food, focusing ontapas and seafood bites. There is also an excellent selection of local cheeses to soak up the non-stop streams of cider. Dishes £7-12). Open 11.30am-midnight. Closed Thursday, closed late January-late February (0034985861419)