I was heading out to La Pared when my padrino called and asked me to help him out with something, so I turned completly around and decided to cut my loss by going to pine grove paddle and cash a few waves if I could. It felt real good to paddle about for a while before getting down to bussiness and even thought there were people waiting for me in Luquillo, sorry Josue, I made the best out of a minor inconvinience.

Ok, my first time ever in the water w my board At La Pared! The time was right, no classes, I called in sick to work, something I never do.....and Boom! Got Wet!... Actually the second that my boss told me it was o.k. to stay home, I jumped in the water...

Met some people, Josue and Gabriel, and Josue helped me out big time considering that I kept wipping out constantly. The waves were a lot bigger that Im used to but its about getting used to it, no matter how many times u wipeout. Now all I need is practice and maybe... to stand up at some point in my life!!! That would be pretty nifty!! Its worth the hour long drive, back and forth! Hopefully Ill be back on Saturday!

Update: Sunset Beach, Bolsa Chica State Park, California. Drove past Seal Beach (looked pretty small) down PCH to Sunset Beach, home of Jesse James (the motor cycle guy, not the outlaw) and his wife, movie star Sandra Bullock (saw a big Lincoln Limo out front with a 90 year butler. Perfect conditions, warm water with light offshore and glassy, but small and inconsistant, only knee to waist but picked up a couple of nice nose rides. Fire is now 60% contained ... at one point it looked like it would knock out the TV towers serving Los Angeles on Mt. Wilson!

"The hazy lazy days of Summer are almost over but they are going out in a blaze. Huge wildfires in the the foothills and canyons of the San Gabriel and Sierra Nevada mountains are surrounding Los Angeles. Massive plumes of smoke are mixing with thunderheads from tropical storms south of the border (down Mexico way) and are towering up to 30,000 feet, billowing like Atomic Bomb mushrooms.

Conditions have been hot and humid with little or no wind for the dawn patrol and decent swell most of this week from Baja. You could smell the smoke at the beach!"

Visited this beach on the day of The Goddess of the Ocean Festival (Yemaya) and paid my respects to the living and the dead. I prayed to my patron saint (Yemaya herself) to always protect me and not drown me when I go surf there.The place is pretty bitchin', plus I took pictures this time!! Will upload these once I figure out how to do it.

Visited this beach for the first time to get a feel for it, looks fun but I was told that it's only good during the summer and if storms hit in the caribbean. Still will visit a few more times before the year ends to paddle and eventually surf. I hope. Will visit LA pared tomorrow.

JESUS! I thought these entries were for session reports, not sand in your clit bitch sessions! Went to this spot for the first time today Got about a half hour of nice (albeit small) waves that were glassy and clean to ride, after that it suddenly petered out and I paddled in. No real reason for it to be breaking other than a 10'+ swell hitting the coast for the last few days. Will be back later this week. Anytime you can ride some clean waves on a 70 plus degree sunny day in puget sound is a good day!

The waves were god today but it looks like everyone else i south wales heard so also!!! But no seriously it was quite good but very busy. Also the waves were breaking pretty late and i had my new 6' 6" board!!!! Shorter than usual. Ihave to say that i was pretty etiquett-wise. I hadn't caught barely anything and a beautifull wave came by, and some one was going for it aswell as me, and he was closest to the break. Anyway afterwards i explained to him and he said he was cool with it, because the last thing i wanted to do was offend him so i apologized, and too right to!!! It got extremley busy and with such a small beach i had to leave pretty soon!

Metup with Eric, looking for a spot to get out and surf we found this spot as it was the only one with any waves that were surfable. We got out there and it took us awhile to begin catching anything. The water temp was fantastic and over the course of the time we were out there we really found a way to catch them off the point. The rides once you did catch one were long and nice. We stayed out there for a really long time and then finally gave it up.

We Surfed again the next morning and waited more then we surfed and right as it was time to go home the waves started rolling in. I caught one nice one to finish the day but it left me dying to get back out. I also fell in love with this area and Ventura in general.

Considering this was one of the hottest days this summer and it was nothing but clear skies with slight off shore wind w/ a little sideshore it was a very nice day to go out.

This was my first time surfing in WA state with a 4/3 mm wet suit with booties so that was a little restrictive but I did get used to it. Hands got cold and had to keep warm the whole time but the rest of the body was fine...booties did great...feet were never cold.

Bottom line it was a very nice day. I was out 2 hours. The sets were nice with a few in the 6-8ft range but a lot of walled out sets with a few sides you can catch. Break also is right on the shore so as the tide rolled in it broke closer on the beach as the waves weren't catching out farther...they had to roll in to break except the larger sets.

Another swell is rolling in this weekend in the overhead range according to the forecast so will head out again & report back. It'll be interesting to see the crowd difference as there was only about 6 guys out with 1/2 of those if not more learning how to surf.

Today we tok a camera to Newgale!!!!!!!!!! We took a video camera which i wish i could show but i can't upload vid sadly but to see it go to www.surfingvidsandpics.webs.com. The waves today were decent but we only rented one booard so one person could film but we also had a third camera man onshore which we mostly used footage of. I didn't catch much today because it was busy but i did catch an amazing one but I SLIPPED!!!! But it's not all bad news because after i slipped i was lying on my back... the wrong way around!!! I was completely accidentaly surfing backwards. t hurt but it was fun.

Today it was me my two bros and my mom. The waves were mushy, soupy big and powerful. You could catch them at knee high and still ride 'em in. I had to stick with my mom coz she didn't trust me to go with my brothers to ride the big'uns, but after a while my mum couldn't be bothered to stay in the water so she got out and i started gettin absoloutley SMASHED, these were so powerful and were breaking so far out, you couldn't get behind them to where they break. I did a few times, but then i'd ride one in and have to start all over again. Not good. So i jut went for nice nicer looking mushy ones slightly further in. Today was quite good in terms of how busy it was. There were lots of people in the water, which meant lots of jumping off in case you hit someone. fun!!! But after a while most of the people in the water like swimmers and bodyboarders just gave up because the water was just to mushy and it was hitting them in the face and all parts!!! But the surfers in the water were loving ing it because they were just playing about in the whitewash.

Today was beautiful, we got there from our windy and rainy house to a beautiful pembrokeshire west coast. The waves were small but they were loveley and glassy and broke perfectly. We got in after renting some huge 9 foot boards, one bic for david (my other bro) and an nsp for me. The waves were infrequent but coming in in sets. Ther weren't many people thre but the ones that were, were rather annoying as they were all body boarders who knew nothing of surfing etiquet, and at one point, this body boaring mum put herself in a position wich meant one person would get hurt. I was padling for the perfect most beautifull wave of the day, i started padling... speeding up quicker and quicker, the wave was still to fast so it felt as it was about to wash over me so i thaught; "now or never" so got up and i slid down the wave and was speeding like never before, my balance was all over the place, with my arms flinging about the place, but when i regained my balance i was trimming. Then i spotted a body border who even though she saw me heading for her went for the wave. So i thought that some thing bad was going to happen but wasn't gonna come off such a perfect wave if there was a way around it. So i thought to turn the other direction. When i turned around there was some guy, he was good, but he was turning towards me, i didn't know what to do, i thought about falling back but there were to many people around, i couldn't do much but... anyway we got out at about 7:40 and left to go home.

Session was good. Caught quite a few, stood about 4 times i'd say. I went with my bro (Jonathan) and my mom. The waves were pretty small to start but then grew as the sets came in. I attempted to catch quite a few to start but didn't have much luck but as the waves grew i greased the hinges and started to catch some nice waves but wth the board being a funboard i would just slide off. (i wanted a 7'9" but i probably wouldn't have had much luck.) Then i started to get up and surf the waves. We got out of the water at 7:45 and headed back.