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Home, Garden, and Yard

Sub-Topics

A friend has recommended an Epsom salt solution for my garden plants. How are Epsom
salts used here? I know they add mag to the soil if it is depleted but I didn't think
they were used in alkaline soils... do they have any benefits? Will they help me grow
blueberries etc., stuff that needs acidic soil? Research says that Epsom doesn't change
the ph much but I know sulfur is good.

A

I do not recommend Epsom salts - which is basically magnesium sulfate. Magnesium
is not at all limited in our Utah Soils and our soils have a tendency for high salinity.
Magnesium is the central atom of chlorophyll. (Just as reference the largest industrial
magnesium producer is MAGCORP which is located on the western bank of the Great Salt
Lake) Epsom salts have been recommended in gardening books based in the northeastern
US soils where magnesium is limited. Best amendments to add to your soil is organic
matter - or even better is to get a soil test from Utah State University Analytical
Labs (www.usual.com) for $14 to know your basic soil profile - pH, texture, salinity, phosphorus and
potassium levels.

A landscaping company planted 6 jaquemonti birch in my yard at the end of May. Two
of them recently began developing darkish brown leaf spots in the center. They are
getting plenty of water. On one of the leaves I found very tiny black insects. I did
not find insects on any of the other leaves. What could the problem be and what should
I do about it. I picked the infected leaves off that I could reach. I also collected
the insects.

A

From your description there may be two different things happening. The first possibility
is that this particular type of tree is not heat tolerant and the leaves may be scorched
because of our hot and dry weather conditions. This problem usually shows up in July
and August with newly transplanted trees being the most susceptible because they have
yet to develop extensive root systems. I have included a link below that has more
information on leaf scorch.

The second possibility is that what you are seeing is a fungal disease. Fungal diseases
usually start out as dark brown to black spots. These spots will spread and eventually
grow together and in severe cases the leaves may die and fall off. When we have long
periods of cool wet weather, like we did this spring, fungal diseases can be more
problematic. If it is a fungal disease the good news is that now that we are having
much hotter and dryer weather you should see a significant decrease in the spread
of this problem. Below is a link with more information on a common fungal disease
in our area. If it is fungal, some things you can do to help your tree out are to
make sure to pick up and discard any of the leaves that fall off of this tree. This
will help reduce the spread of the fungus. When watering the tree try to avoid getting
water on the leaves. If the tree is watered by sprinklers make sure to run them early
enough in the day so the leaves will be dry before nightfall. Below is a link with
more information on watering trees. You can also apply a protective fungicide spray
at bud break and to the newly emerging foliage next spring.

A portion of my backyard is very shady and the grass looks sparse and unhealthy. Any
suggestions on what to do to make it look good and healthy again?

A

Most grass in our Utah landscapes are Kentucky Blue Grass and it does not like much
shade. It looks sparse because it is not getting enough light to grow properly.
Tall fescue tolerates shade better and you might consider reseeding that area with
tall fescue. However, if there is heavy shade, there are no grasses that grow in
full shade. You could look at USU Publication on Turfgrass cultivarshttp://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/Turfgrass.pdf for more information.

You may consider using plants more tolerant of shade like some other ground cover
such as Vinca (Vinca minor) or Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi).

About the end of July, some of my Hostas start turning yellow and eventually almost
white. These get more sun than the rest. Is that the problem or do they need more
fertilizer at some point.

A

It sounds like your hostas are getting a little more sun than they would like. Adding
fertilizer will not help the plant if it is already stressed by too much sun. You
can help control the yellowing and fading by adding a thick layer of mulch around
each plant that will help them retain water. Thick leaved and fragrant hostas usually
perform better in sunnier locations. I have included a list of some varieties of
hostas that are more sun tolerant.

Master Gardeners are volunteers for the Extension Service. First started in Washington
State University in 1972, Extension Agents trained willing and experienced gardeners
who provided education and advice, extending research based science advice to the
public. The Master Gardener program is in every state associated with their land-grant
university and Extension Service. Utah State University Extension began Master Gardener
training in the early 1980s based on the model from Washington State. The Master
Gardener Volunteer programs are trained and coordinated by USU Extension county offices.
In Salt Lake County, we have volunteer programs throughout the county, and though
we have 200 Master Gardeners on the roster, many of them are "alumnae" who have gone
through the training but are no longer actively volunteering. There are no specific
projects in Millcreek and personal information due to privacy issues cannot be release
regarding home addresses of Master Gardeners. Active Master Gardeners volunteer at approved Master Gardener projects.

Master Gardener projects are selected based on the following criteria:The criteria include:

Educational for Master GardenersEducational for PublicCooperative Partners working together with Master GardenersAdvancing Utah State University Extension Horticulture Education missionProviding Service to Salt Lake County communitiesGoals of the project meet USU University Extension goals Sustainable projects that take into consideration, water wise management and Integrated
pest management (reduce use of chemicals)

Olive trees, the kind that are used to produce the olives we eat are trees that are
native to the Mediterranean area. This area has a long, hot growing season and mild
winters. This is one reason that olive trees do not do well here. Our growing season
is typically not long enough for olives and we often get late spring frost that can
damage the blossoms and destroy any developing fruit. Olives also do not like cold
winters and will be permanently damaged if temperatures drop below freezing. While
it may be possible to get a tree to grow, if it is given enough protection, odds are
that it would not produce any fruit.

Can Blenheim apricots be grown in Cache Valley? If so, what problems might I expect?

A

Blenheim apricot is popular in California, but it should be cold hardy in Utah, at
least along the Wasatch Front. However, it has not been bread to have a delayed bloom.
Late frosts are common in Northern Utah, and you may not get much fruit production
out of it. I would recomend growing varieties such as Moorpark, Moongold, Sun-Glow,
or Chinese (Mormon). Out of these, Moorpark has the best reputation for good flavor,
but it is a poor canner. Moongold is good for canning or eating. Chinese is supposed
to be the most cold hardy. Its fruit is good but is somewhat smaller than the other
two varieties.

Can citrus and avocado trees be planted and grown successfully in Salt Lake County?

A

Citrus and avocado trees cannot be grown successfully in our landscape because they
are not cold hardy to survive our Utah winters. However, some citrus trees that are
on dwarf rootstock can be grown in containers, such as Meyer Lemons or kumquats, which
are brought into a heated garage or greenhouse overwinter. Then they can be brought
back outdoors when there is no longer a threat of frost.

Peas, radishes, lettuce and onions are considered cool season vegetables that you
can plant as soon as you can work the soil in the spring. Melons, tomatoes, cucumbers
and peppers should be planted when the threat of frost is gone. Attached is a link
to a variety recommendation with planting dates. http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_313.pdf

Can I legally drill a small water well (or two) under 30 feet deep in my back yard
without a permit?

A

Legally, no. All water, surface and ground, belongs to the State of Utah. One can
make application at Utah Division of Water Resources to put said water to beneficial
use. If application is approved, you are allowed to use the water according to the
conditions prescribed by the State Water Engineer. Will Atkin is in the State Water
office in North Logan. If you want to pursue an application, Will can be reached
at 752-8755.

Can I use smoke bombs to kill gophers in my yard if I have a garden? Will the chemicals
affect the vegetables I plant?

A

Smoke bombs are a good way of getting rid of moles, voles, gophers (pocket gophers),
ground hogs, ground squirrels, rabbits (which sometimes live in other creatures' burrows),
and woodchucks. The bombs releases a sulfurous smoke that asphyxiates these tunnel
dwellers. Simply light the fuse, place it lit end down into the hole entrance, and
quickly cover the device and the hole with soil.

For smoke bombs to work, the target animal needs to be at home. If you see the animal
and scare it into its burrow, you know it's home. Generally, most of these animals
are home at night.

Since the gas produced is a sulfur based smoke, it should not harm the vegetables
that are planted after eliminating the pest. If there are vegetables growing in the
garden already, you should be a bit careful particularly if the pest is burrowing
around your root vegetables (carrot or potato). Always follow the directions on the
packaging when using these devises.

Can we use rabbit droppings in our vegetable & flower gardens or is the acidity too
high? How does it compare to manure?

A

Any manure added directly to a garden may be problematic Rabbit droppings as well
as any animal manure (chicken, horse, cow) when added directly in the garden, the
microbes (fungi and bacteria) use available nitrogen in the soil to decompose the
manure, and nitrogen is less available for plant growth. All manure is best utilized
after being composted in a compost heap. Water, microbes, and the composting process
will make the nutrients in rabbit droppings more available to plants.

Using manure: Manures differ from each other because of their source, their age, how
they were stored (piled, spread, turned over or not), and the animal bedding material,
which may be mixed in. For that reason it is difficult to provide precise guidance
about how long manure should be aged before use, or how much to use.

Composting is the safest way to make the most of manure's nutritional potential -
if the logistics of making and hauling compost are viable. For direct use in the garden,
first aging manure for 6 months is a good rule of thumb. Many farmers and gardeners
spread fresh manure in the fall or winter, and till or turn it in at spring planting
time.

When manure is spread in the spring, even if aged, it is safest to wait for at least
one month before planting crops, since the microbial activity it stimulates may interfere
with seed germination or plant growth before that time.

Chickens in garden before planting? Good idea? And get them on the lawn to eat any
weeds?

A

Allowing chickens to range around the garden plot is a good idea for the following
reasons:

They will scratch and loosen the top layer of leaves and debris that has accumulated
over the winter and eat larvae and insects they find.

Their manure will add nutrients to the soil.

Chickens on the lawn won’t hurt the lawn, but will be of minimal help in weed control.
Most weeds that cause trouble in lawns are deep-rooted and perennial. In most instances,
the occasional lopping off the top by chickens won’t really help. If you choose to
let chickens roam on the lawn, be sure the grass has not recently had herbicides and/or
insecticides applied. These may be harmful to the chickens or deposited in eggs that
are laid.

Do cottonless Cottonwood shed cotton after 7 to 10 years or are they always cottonless?

A

Male clones of cottonwoods should not produce cotton- only the female trees produce
the seeds ("cotton").Sometimes you will hear of cottonless cottonwood trees later developing cotton but
they were probably mislabeled.Some hybrid cottonwoods sold are listed as "sterile female hybrids." These are not
cottonless because they are not male. The "sterile" refers to the fact that the seeds
they produce are incapable of germinating. However, they still produce the cotton
to distribute the seed.If you have a cottonwood that produces cotton and you don't want to cut it down, you
can use Florel to prevent cotton development in female trees. You will need to check
the label to see when to apply it.

Do garden vegetables such as tomatoes and cucumbers require sun protection,(shade),
during the hot part of summer?

A

Vegetables such as tomatoes will benefit from some shade during the hot part of the
summer in a desert climate. Indirect sunlight or filtered works fine. Keep in mind
that in order for tomatoes to set fruit you will need to lower the temperature around
the plants. Shade will help with this. Also, you may consider using some mister nozzles
over the plants and run them at brief intervals in late afternoon.

Do you have a list of good varieties of produce producing plants to grow in this area?
I am looking to plant fruit trees this fall and start a garden next year.

A

There are too many varieties of fruit trees and vegetables to list here. We have
two booklets, one called "Growing Vegetables, Recommended Varieties for Utah" and
another called "Home Vegetable Garden: Variety Recommendations for Utah" Both of
these list varieities by name, as well as planting dates, days to maturity, etc.
We also have a booklet entitled "Fruit and Nut Variety Recommendations for Utah" I suggest that you come in and take a look at these booklets. There are new varieties
coming out all the time, so it is impossible to always be up-to-date. I enjoy trying
a few different varieties of vegetables every year. If you buy your vegetables at
a reputable nursery, you should get things that will grow here. For your trees, ask
the nurseryman if it will grow in your hardiness zone and in your soil pH. and texture.

Do you have any suggestions as to where to buy or how to make a truly sturdy tomato
cage? The "standard" metal ones I have bought at garden centers have always tipped
over when the plant has gotten big.

A

You can pound metal fence posts in at both ends of your tomato row and run bailing
twine, or some other sturdy material, from one fence post to the other, looping it
around a wire on each tomato cage, then on to the next cage as you go. When you get
to the bottom of the row go back up the other side, doing the same thing. With it's
tied on both sides of the cages it will keep the row of tomato cages from falling
over like a blown-down fance.

Another possibility is to pound in stakes at each tomato cage and tie the cages to
the stakes.

I made some very tall and sturdy cages out of concrete reinforcing wire (4" squares).
I still pound in stakes at the top and bottom of the row and tie the tomato cages
to the posts though.

Do you have the names of companies or individuals who spray fruit trees in the spring
and summer to prevent bugs and disease?

A

USU Extension does not keep a list of commercial pesticide applicators that would
spray home orchards.

When hiring any pesticide applicator, be sure that they are licensed and registered.
You can see a list of Commercial Pesticide Applicators at the Utah Department of Agriculture
and Food webpage,http://ag.utah.gov/licenses/Cur_Lic.html

In addition, the USU Extension Integrated Pest Management website offers frequently
updated "Tree Fruit Advisories" so that home orchard growers will know when to watch
for and spray for certain tree fruit pests. The link to that site is: https://pestadvisories.usu.edu/category/fruit/

Flowering Pear trees. I have some mature "Chanticleer" flowering pears. For the last
2 years, the new foliage has emerged with curled leaves and a white, cottony substance.
This condition seems to lessen with the hot weather, but the foliage doesn't seem
to totally look healthy like when the trees were younger. What is it and can it be
treated?

A

Difficult to diagnose with just that description. It could be powdery mildew from
infected buds that infects newly emerging leaves.

We also have Plant Pest Diagnostic Ask a Master Gardener clinics in Salt Lake County
every Monday from 1 to 4pm for the months of June, July and August in our USU Training
Room, 2001 South State RM S1008. You can bring in photos or samples of your plants
and have volunteer Master Gardeners help advise you.

Hi, I have a lot of two year hybrid poplars that we've planted for a wind break and
the leaves near the trunks are beginning to turn yellow. I've read that this can be
because of lack of water or too much water or not enough fertilizer. It's July and
we water them every day because of the 90+ temps. Any suggestions?

A

It sounds like too much water. I prefer deeper and less frequent watering, normally
established trees need a good soak every week to 10 days. Also, frequent watering
does not force the tree to grow deep roots that go after water and will sustain a
tree through hot days.Frequent watering also washes away the nitrogen so a tree will rob nitrogen from older
leaves to keep growing. This best explains your described your situation. If it
were not enough water you would see browning of outer leaves especially those on the
south and west side that get the brunt of wind, sun, and warm temperatures. Slowly
cut back on your watering intervals but increase the amount. let the hose run longer
but put more days between watering. We don't normally encourage fertilization of
trees, especially not in the heat of the summer where it encourages lush green growth.
Spring and late fall would be better.

Hi, I just recently bought a house in Taylorsville in a older neighborhood. I have
noticed some clover that is sort of a deep purplish color coming up all through my
yard. What is it and how can I get rid of it?

A

Don't know what you are describing exactly. It possibly could be Oxalis, creeping
wood sorrel that has shamrock type leaf, purple, and yellow flowers. The best way
is to bring in a fresh sample to our office for proper identification in order to
offer a good management solution for control.

Our offices are at the Salt Lake County Government Complex, 2001 South State Rm S1200,
and our offices are open M-F 9am to 5pm. We also have a Plant Diagnostic Clinic on
Mondays from 1 to 4pm, where the public is welcome to bring in samples for identification.
This clinic is staffed by volunteer Master Gardeners who want to help you with your
gardening questions.

The earwig got its name from an old superstition that it could crawl into peoples’
ears while they sleep and bore into the brain. This belief is not true. Earwigs can,
however, chew into plants and cause damage and can be a nuisance around the home.
Consider this information for control.

The most common type of earwig found in home yards in Utah is an exotic species called
the European earwig. Earwigs are easy to recognize from their cerci, the large, pincer-like
appendages on the hind end. Cerci are used in self-defense and courtship and will
deliver only a mild pinch to humans. The earwig body is flat and elongated and red-brown
in color. Earwigs are one-fourth to one and one-fourth inches in length. Adults have
a short pair of leathery wings covering a folded pair of membranous wings. They are
weak fliers and move mostly by crawling. Earwigs can emit a foul smelling, yellow-brown
liquid from their scent glands. They are omnivorous and will scavenge on dead insects
and decayed organic matter, prey on live insects and chew on living plant material
including leaves, flowers, stems, fruits and roots.

Earwigs are pests outside the home because of the damage they can cause to ornamental
and garden plants, and a nuisance when they enter homes seeking shelter and food.
If damage to garden plants is apparent or many earwigs enter the home, control measures
should be considered. Garden plants commonly injured by earwigs in Utah include annual
flowers (especially marigolds, dahlias and zinnias), herbs (especially basil), roses,
raspberries, strawberries, apricots, peaches, sweet corn tassels and silks. Because
earwigs are beneficial due to their predaceous and decomposer feeding habits, they
should only be controlled when causing harm. Earwigs are nocturnal. If chewing injury
to plants is apparent but no culprit can be found during the day, check the plants
at night with a flashlight. If shiny, slime trails are present, snails or slugs are
the culprit rather than earwigs.

For earwig control, focus on the outside of the home where populations increase during
spring and summer. To reduce their entry into your home, create a clean, dry border
using gravel or stone immediately around the foundation wall. Eliminate hiding places
near the foundation such as groundcovers, climbing vines, weeds, thick mulches and
vegetation and piles of debris, leaves or wood. Earwigs hide under mulches in plant
beds during the day, so be sure to select mulches with smaller-sized particles to
reduce refuges. Seal cracks and crevices around windows, doors and cable holes in
walls. Apply insecticides (see recommended products below) around the foundation,
flowerbeds and turf within several yards of the home. In late spring to early summer,
suppress earwig populations by targeting sites where they congregate (sites where
females brood their young), and on plants when injury appears. Place traps in the
evening and collect and remove earwigs in the morning. Effective traps include shallow
cans with vegetable or other odorous oils, moist rolled newspaper and cardboard boxes
baited with oatmeal or bran. Be sure cardboard containers have pencil-sized holes
near the bottom for entry.

Apply an effective insecticide in the late evening just before earwigs come out to
feed. Recommended insecticides include permethrin, esfenvalerate, bifenthrin, pyrethrins,
carbaryl, malathion, azadirachtin and diatomaceous earth. Use enough water in the
application to cover plants and carry the chemical into the top layer of soil or mulch
where earwigs hide. Not all insecticide products are registered for edible plants.
Read the product label carefully before making an application.

Exact identification of the hobo spider often requires examination under a microscope.
When observed with the naked eye, even those familiar with this spider can be fooled
by other species that resemble it. In general, hobo spiders have a tan to brown thorax
and legs and a grayish abdomen. The abdomen often has a "chevron" pattern (like sergeant's
stripes) of yellow markings, though this is usually most noticeable in immatures.

There are several ways to tell if a given spider is NOT a hobo spider:

The spider has dark bands (like multiple arm bands) around its legs.

The spider has distinct black markings on the thorax or abdomen.

The spider is larger than a fifty-cent piece (including the legs).

Additional information and images of the hobo spider are found in the Hobo Spider fact sheet.

Garden

Q

A look at gardening catalog terms

A

This time of year, gardening catalogs are a regular item in the mailbox. Many catalogs
sell quality plants that are often affordable. However, it is important to weed out
many of the superlatives and catch phrases used in the catalogs. Consider this lighter
look at gardening descriptions, and their meaning for Utah gardeners.

Color all year. This is merely referring to the colors you will turn throughout the
year as you recall what you paid for the plant. May need protection. This suggests
that a thug from the company will be sent to your home to jerk out the plant unless
you order more plants from the catalog. On the brighter side, occasionally thugs only
rough up the plant, which actually may stimulate new growth. A must-have for every
garden. Just another way of saying, “This plant will throw down enough seed the first
24 hours after it is planted to cover Nebraska.” Your neighbors will soon appreciate
the term “must have,” because they will have no choice in the matter. Attracts wildlife.
Any plant with this label should be given as a gift to the neighbor, because the best
way to enjoy wildlife is from a distance. Who wants a raccoon, deer, starling or your
Uncle Harold flitting through your flowers or tromping through your vegetable garden?

Old favorite. In other words, “We produced too much seed and need to get rid of it.”
The fact that it was the only plant the first immigrants to America could get to survive
does not make it a favorite today. World-record size. Remember it is quality, not
size, that counts when it comes to most vegetables. The largest kohlrabi in the world
may look good in a picture, but have you ever tried to eat one? Save yourself the
money and go taste your favorite maple tree — the flavor and texture will be about
the same. Blooms all season. What they don’t tell you in the fine print is that the
season they are referring to is in some remote village in northern Yukon where the
summer is measured in hours, not days. Our choice. Let them keep it.

Improves in beauty each year. This means that for the first couple of years, the plant
will look like it was dragged through a fire and then stomped on to extinguish the
flames. By the third or fourth year, any growth at all will be appreciated, and by
the time you leave this life yourself, it may actually start to bloom. Free with every
order. It didn’t sell last year, so we’ll get rid of it somehow.

In reality, many of the plants received from a reputable catalog are of good quality
— you just need to be cautious. It is a good idea to consult first with others who
have ordered from a specific company. However, the best policy is to first check with
your local nursery or garden center to see if they have the plant you are looking
for.

A week ago I was given an easter lily with white trumpet flowers. The plant was very
dry, so I watered it, and it dose seem healthy. The blossoms are gone.

What, where and when is the best time to plant outside? I would like to plant it in
a pot with other flowers.

The spot is quite shady, gets a little sun, will it be ok?

How should I winterize the plant when it gets cold, so I can have it come out nicely
next year?

Will it multiply, where I can get other plants? or, How can I plant other starts from
the plant?

Is there literature on growing easter lilys in Utah?

Can I expect blossoms again this summer or fall?

A

No publications specifically about Easter Lily care for Utah, but it is similar to
other lilies that grow from bulbs, that they need at least half aday of sun, for the leaves to produce sugars throughout the summer and send those
sugars into the bulb for blooms next spring. There are a coupleof concerns for success in that our soil pH is alkaline and they prefer a more acidic
soil pH and the lilies may not be cold hardy enough to survive ourwinters. Easter Lilies are intensely managed to produce blooms for Easter and sold
as houseplants. You can plant you Easter Lily outside afterthe blooms are spent but you should select a site with sun and afternoon shade for
the plant to produce food through photosynthesis to send those sugarsback into the bulb. Be patient. It may take a couple of year's for your plant to build
up enough resources to set flower buds.

Are pine needles a good top mulch or addition to my compost pile? Others have said
pine needles are poisonous. I live in Washington Terrace and my soil is sandy by nature.

A

Pine needles as mulch are not poisonous. They make an excellent mulch and are becoming
more and more common as a mulch in flower and vegetable gardens and around trees and
shrubs. They stay put in winds and rain, allow water to easily drain through, discourage
weed seed germination, and prevent erosion. As mulch, the needles last about 2 years,
and can easily be removed and replaced with fresh needles, or covered with new. Apply
mulch about 3-4 inches thick in fall or spring. Ideally, it is best if you can work
the compost you apply into the soil.

Pine needles have a minimal effect on the pH level of soil. Utah soils are very alkaline
(high pH) and many plants we grow in our gardens could benefit from the addition of
any materials that lower the soil pH.

Are there any crops I can plant now (mid-July) in my garden as my early vegetables
finish? My sugar snap peas, onions, beets, spinach, etc. have all left empty space
in the garden I'd like to put to use. What are the best choices for fall harvest in
the Salt Lake Valley?

A

There are many things planted now that can be harvested before the snow flies. The
cool season vegetables usually won't germinate now, it's too hot, but some warm season
vegetables would work. Herbs such as basil usually will be ready as well as certain
beans such as Strike bush beans (45). Bush pickle cucumbers (45) also would work.
I will send you the link to USU publication, with many vegetables varieties and one
thing to look for is the number is parenthesis after the variety which indicates days
to harvest.

By the end of June, our apple tree looked sickly, with faded, curling brown leaves.
I am wondering if the leaves look the way they do because my husband doesn't spray
regularly or because the tree is not getting enough water in our arid climate. When
he does stick to a schedule, it seems that the leaves don't look much better. This
is a tree that is nearly twenty years old. I have never noticed an infestation of
bugs. Apples have gotten smaller and smaller by the year, most have worms. The tree
is in our front yard and I really would like it to look healthy, regardless of whether
or not we get eatable fruit. What should we do?

A

It sounds like your tree is on its "last legs". Perhaps the root system is compromised
in some way. Curling leaves might indicate herbicide damage. Wormy apples are due
to codling moth. Some apple trees (Jonathan, especially) are very susceptible to powdery
mildew, which affects the leaves. In other words, there are many unanswered questions;
I cannot tell you a firm diagnosis.

If you would like to bring a small limb into our office, we may be able to help you
better.

Can I grow strawberries in pots? Will they survive winter in pots? Will they produce
if they only get afternoon sun? Where can I learn more on this topic?

A

Strawberries do very well in pots, as the root volume required is relatively small.
You do need to remember that maintaining plants with a small root volume require more
frequent watering. At peak production, strawberry plants can transpire a relatively
large amount of water, so they may need to be watered daily, if not more often.

Optimum growing temperatures for strawberries are between 70 and 85F. So for warmer
parts of Utah, some afternoon shade in the summer is beneficial. Keeping the roots
cool in the summer with light colored pots will also help. Too much shade will result
in vegetative plants that don't produce much fruit, or produce fruit that is sour.

Winter survival will depend on how cold it gets, and how much you protect them. Buried
under snow, or even under straw or sawdust mulch will help keep the roots and crowns
from being damaged. Since they are in pots, you can also consider moving them to
a shed or unheated garage where they will also receive some protection.

Most garden waste is useful without composting it. Think of it as precomposting. Using
garden waste can reduce the flow of green material sent to the landfills, improve
the soil and increase the health of most plants. Here are some ideas to try before
sending yard waste to the dump or the compost bin.

Grass-cycling. The easiest way to reduce yard waste is to leave the grass clippings
on the grass and not bag them. It is a great way to return nutrients and organic material
to the soil. It reduces the water requirements of the lawn and cuts mowing time significantly.
Grass-cycling does not increase the thatch layer and can be beneficial to the soil.

Use grass clippings as a mulch. Save grass clippings for your vegetable or flower
garden. Later, the clippings can be worked into the soil, which improves tilth and
workability. However, they should be dried before being used as a mulch. Do not pile
wet, fresh clippings more than an inch deep at a time or they will turn into a stinky,
sticky mess.

Shred leaves. Shredded leaves in the fall can be used as a mulch around the trees,
shrubs and perennials. By spring, the leaves decompose and add precious organic matter
to the soil. Leaves can be shredded by running over them with a lawn mower. This is
usually easier that raking them up, even though it makes a lousy leaf pile for jumping.

Work leaves into growing areas. If the leaves are shredded first they are easier to
rototill, but shredding is not required. Adding some nitrogen into the area will speed
decomposition.

Use evergreen needles for mulch or a soil amendment. They will acidify Utah's alkali
soils while increasing the organic content. Conifer needles break down slowly but
still improve the soil over the long haul.

Shred all dead annual plants. After they are shredded, they can be worked into the
garden or flower beds. The lawn mower works well for this, too. Be careful of annuals
that reseed themselves, though. They can become weeds in a garden. These include marigolds,
snapdragons, cosmos, calendula and alyssum.

As a last resort, compost. The most productive method is to build a compost pile and
compost all garden, yard and kitchen waste. Composting is a lot easier than most people
believe and, if done correctly, has no unpleasant odor. Compost is the best soil amendment,
improving the tilth, workability, drainage and nutrient holding capacity.

With spring approaching, it is time once again to think about planting and gardening.
Knowing the average last frost date gives gardeners the opportunity to make specific
plans for planting both hardy and tender plants in the garden.

Consider these average last spring and first fall freeze dates.

Location

Avg. last

spring freeze

Avg. first fall freeze

Avg. freeze free days

Beaver

June 4

Sept 16

104

Blanding

May14

Oct 11

149

Castle Dale

May 22

Sept 23

124

Cedar City

May 19

Oct 2

135

Coalville

June 15

Sept 2

78

Corinne

May 13

Sept 29

139

Delta

May 16

Sept 28

135

Farmington

May 5

Oct 10

158

Heber

June 8

Sept 7

90

Kanab

May 4

Oct 23

171

Logan

May 25

Sept 25

158

Manti

May 22

Sept 27

127

Moab

April 18

Oct 16

181

Nephi

May 15

Oct 1

138

Ogden

May 5

Oct 10

157

Panguitch

June 20

Sept 2

74

Pleasant Grove

May 11

Oct 9

151

Richfield

May 26

Sept 19

116

Roosevelt

May 15

Sept 27

134

St. George

March 29

Nov 1

216

Salt Lake City

April 26

Oct 16

172

Tooele

May 3

Oct 15

164

Vernal

May 27

Sept 20

116

Cold hardy vegetables can be planted four to six weeks before the last frost date.
Some of these include broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, onions, peas and spinach. These
crops thrive in cool weather and should not be planted late in the spring. Pea seeds,
for example, can actually germinate when soil temperatures are about 40 F while tomato
seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are above 65 F. Beets, carrots, chard,
onion sets and radishes are hardy plants that can be planted two to four weeks before
the last frost date.

Plants that are not cold hardy should be planted around the frost-free date. These
include beans, squash, corn and tomatoes. Peppers, eggplant, cucumbers and melons
require hot weather to grow well and should be planted about a week after the last
expected frost. These plants may be injured if planted too early and consequently
may not grow or flower well throughout the rest of the season. To get a jump on the
season, several of these warm season vegetables may be started by seed inside, and
then planted outside when temperatures warm.

If planted indoors, tomato and pepper seeds should be planted six to eight weeks before
the last frost. The seedlings should have a bright light source such as a south window
or a fluorescent light structure placed several inches above. Squash, cucumbers and
melons should be seeded about two to three weeks before transplanting to the garden.

Spring-blooming perennials are some of the first plants to bring color back into the
landscape. If you don’t have any, now is a good time to plant them. Most spring bloomers
are easy to grow and adapt to varying growing conditions. Consider planting one or
some of these.

Pig squeak (Bergenia cordifolia) has very large leaves, which are its major attraction.
This semi-evergreen’s large, shiny foliage turns maroon in color in the winter. When
it blooms in the spring, it sends up a stalk with small white and pink flowers. Dutchman’s
breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) is a relative of the old-fashioned bleeding heart.
This perennial is not often grown in Northern Utah, but can be found in shady, moist
spots in some landscapes. Its blossoms are white with a touch of cream and have delicate
foliage. Several plants are called creeping buttercup, but Ranunculus repens is the
spring blooming perennial. It makes an attractive groundcover and produces yellow
flowers all spring. However, it is classified as a weed in several states, so keep
it in check if adding it to your yard.

Foxglove (Digitalis) is famous for its tall spikes of color that emerge in late spring.
It grows well in shady locations. Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) is a familiar early
blooming perennial. Its purple, blue, magenta and white blossoms in the early spring
are quite spectacular. These perennials are ideal for creeping over walls or down
hillsides. Candytuft (Iberis) is sturdy enough to be called a shrub. This semi-evergreen
does not die back to the ground in the winter, and is covered with white flowers for
several weeks in the spring. Newer varieties even dabble at producing flowers throughout
the summer. There are two plants known as rockcress, and both of these low-growing
plants bloom in the spring. Alpine rockcress (Arabis alpina) has white flowers and
works well as an accent plant. Common or purple rockcress (Aubrieta deltoidea) comes
in a purple to rose-colored variety. Both of these plants look great in the spring,
but should be planted with perennials that look good during the summer and into the
fall, because rockcress does not. Other early spring bloomers to consider include
columbine (Aquilegia), basket-of-gold (Aurinia), forget-me-nots (Myosotis) and the
ever-popular dianthus. They all have blossoms for about three to four weeks. Plant
them with summer and fall-blooming perennials so that once they quit blooming, they
can gradually fade into the background.

Posted on 8 May 2006

Q

Do you have information on water-wise annuals?

A

You remember annuals — we plant them every spring hoping they will survive and bloom
until the first frost in the fall. Of course, half of them are taken out by the last
frost in the spring, which arrives exactly one week after planting them.

With the low water year we’ve had, this may be the year to try new annuals. Consider
using those that are classified as water-wise. They are able to survive and look great
with limited water.

The following water-wise annuals thrive in hot, dry locations. Try them in a flower
bed that gets full sun or in a spot where other annuals have collapsed from heat in
the past. Some may be easier to find than others, depending on your area. Check with
your local nursery or favorite gardening catalog.

Dahlberg daisy. This is a low-growing annual. It has small, yellow flowers that cover
the plant until the first freeze in the fall. It struggles in the inserts in the nursery,
but within a couple of weeks after planting, it eventually takes off, reaching a width
of about 1 1/2 feet in diameter. · Creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia). This is another low-growing
plant that fills in large areas quickly with yellow to orange, brown-centered flowers.
Unlike other zinnias, it is not prone to powdery mildew. · Globe amaranth (Gomphrena).
This plant reaches a height of 1 - 2 feet. The flowers are shaped like a large clover
flower and can be found in red, pink, white, purple and yellow. This flower dries
well and the color lasts for months.

Annual statice. This flower reaches a height of about 2 feet, comes in a wide variety
of colors and also is great for drying. The foliage resembles a fuzzy dandelion leaf
and remains close to the soil. The flower bolts to about 18 inches, creating a spectacular
show.

Madagascar periwinkle (annual vinca). This works well in any annual bed. The vivid
pink, rose, purple, white and salmon colored flowers last for long periods of time.
The plant reaches a height of about 1 foot and spreads about half that wide.

Cockscomb (celosia). Cockscombs have plumed flowers that can look like something from
a distant planet. Although the flowers are a little different, they are very colorful
and large, sometimes reaching 18 inches in diameter. They are very showy in a landscape.

Gazania. This annual once came only in yellow and closed up if the sun passed behind
a cloud. The newer varieties range in color from orange to pink, burgundy and other
combinations. They are also better bloomers than in the past and stay open even on
a cloudy day.

Melampodium. This is another low-growing plant with yellow, daisy-like flowers. The
foliage has a much bolder texture than the Dahlberg daisy and the flowers are larger.

Salvia. This can give your landscape splashes of red, pink and even blue color. The
plants range from 10 inches to 2 feet tall. They are very hardy and can be used as
an accent or for a backdrop.

Strawflower. This excellent drying flower blooms in colors of gold to red and burgundy.
Strawflowers reach a height of more than 2 feet and hold their color for months.

Your mother always told you to eat your vegetables, and she was right. Vegetables
are powerful foods packed with health-promoting substances and energy. Just because
the leaves are falling and a chill is in the air doesn’t mean fresh vegetables are
hard to find. In fact, fall root vegetables are some of the most nutrient-packed vegetables
around. Consider the benefits. • Potatoes come in all sizes, shapes and colors from
Yukon gold to red russets. A naturally fat-free food, one medium baked potato or one
cup of mashed potatoes has about 145 calories and provides 35 grams of energy-boosting
carbohydrates. It also provides about 25 percent of the daily need for collagen-supporting
and wound-healing vitamin C and 650 mg of potassium to aid muscle and nerve activity.

Parsnips are often overlooked, but are a high energy, low-fat, nutrient-dense vegetable.
One medium parsnip has 115 calories with 6 grams of fiber, and like other fall vegetables
provides plenty of vitamin C and potassium.

The nutritional value of sweet potatoes is often masked by brown sugar, marshmallows
and butter.A plain baked sweet potato contains 115 calories and has 4 grams of heart-healthy
fiber. Like other orange and deep yellow vegetables, sweet potatoes provide more than
a day's worth of vitamin A.Keep the fat and calories down bytrading the candied sweet
potatoesfor a baked sweet potatoserved with light margarine and cinnamon.

Turnips add a tangy flavor and a sharp bite to soups, saladsand side dishes. One medium
turnip has only 30 calories yet includes 25 percent of the daily need for vitamin
C. Turnips are a fair source of potassium with nearly 200 mg.For a nutrition boost,
cook turnips with the greens. This will onlyadd 30 calories, but will boost your vitamin
C intake to 40 mg, over half the daily need, and provide plenty of vitamin A.

Carrots are one of nature’s portable snacks.Three ounces of baby carrots (10-15sticks)
are a nutritional bargain. With your crunch you get only 30 calories and a day’s worth
of vitamin A as beta-carotene. To trim food costs, purchase raw whole carrots, peel
and cut into sticks.

Cauliflower and celery can be two of the more difficult vegetables to grow successfully
in the vegetable garden. Both are cool-season crops that prefer temperatures in the
60 to 70 degree range for best performance. At higher temperatures, cauliflower will
not head normally and celery will produce tough woody stalks. Both require adequate
water and fertilizer for optimal performance.

Here are some things you can do to encourage head formation on cauliflower.

Cauliflower should be grown as an early spring or fall crop. Most gardeners have success
with the “Snowball” cauliflower varieties as these mature in 55 to 65 days from transplanting.
It is best to grow five to six week-old transplants and plant them two to three weeks
before the last spring frost.

Grow them at an 18 by 18 inch spacing in soils that have been enriched with well-rotted
manure or compost. Once the plants are growing, be sure to avoid water stress by mulching
around the plants with grass, straw, newspaper or other organic materials. These help
keep the soil cool and moist. Water so that the plants never dry out, especially when
the heads start to form.

Avoid fertilizer stress by supplying the plants with a complete fertilizer preplant
and with additional nitrogen five to six weeks after transplanting.

Hot weather closed to heading will affect the appearance and quality of the head.
Always tie the leaves around the head when you can see it is the size of a silver
dollar. This helps keep the head white and makes it less bitter.

For fall cauliflower, plant in late July for harvests in late September or early October.
Heavy frosts on the plant before the head forms will delay development or may injure
the growing point, so adjust planting to give the plants time to mature in your production
area. Harvest the heads about two weeks after tying the leaves around the head.

Here are some things you can do to encourage sweet, tender stalks of celery.

Celery requires from 100 to 120 days after transplanting to mature. Therefore, plant
it early in the spring several weeks before the last frost.

It is best to start with transplants. These require 12 weeks to be of sufficient size
for planting in the garden. When transplanting, be sure to incorporate plenty of compost
or well-rotted manure. Plant 8 by 8 inches apart. This close spacing helps to blanch
the stalks and smother weeds.

Once the crop is established, mulch heavily with straw, grass clipping or other organic
materials.

Like cauliflower, celery likes moist soil. Do not let the soil dry out. Moisture stress
is the main cause of stringy, tough stalks. Celery also requires large amounts of
fertilizer. Apply a complete fertilizer with the compost and then after transplanting,
apply one half tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizer per four plants every two weeks throughout
the summer. Too little fertilizer will not allow the stalks to grow tall and succulent.

Harvest whole plants when they begin to size by cutting them below the soil. Some
gardeners blanch celery with paper wraps, by mounding soil around the plants or by
growing them in a drain tile. Blanching does not affect flavor but does lighten the
color of the stalks.

Ponds are becoming increasingly popular in the landscape. The sound of running water
is peaceful and the sight of rushing water is refreshing and relaxing. It is helpful
to have a place in the yard to enjoy nature and be away from the stress and cares
of life. One of the key components of a pond is the plant material that grows there.
Plants provide many benefits to a pond. Aquatic plants have the ability to live in
standing water. They add interest, provide shade and protection for fish and help
keep the water clean and aerated. Many water plants also bloom and add color.

The most popular blooming, aquatic plants are water lilies. They have large, round
leaves with beautiful flowers that add yellow, white, pink, red and lavender colors
to the pond. There are two types of water lilies ­ a hardy variety and a tropical
variety. The hardy variety can over-winter in most Utah ponds. The tropical variety
either grows as an annual or must be protected from our harsh environment during winter.
Hardy water lilies prefer a sunny location in the pond. They also prefer a calm location
and should be placed away from waterfalls and splashing water. They grow from rhizomes
(modified stems) and thrive when placed 18 to 24 inches below the water surface. Blooms
begin to emerge about mid-May and blossom throughout the summer until the first freeze.
Tropical water lilies are not hardy for our location. If left in the pond, they will
die with the first hard freeze. They prefer shallow water that is 6 to 10 inches deep,
and do better in a warmer pond and location. Tropical lilies come in both day and
night blooming varieties, and their flowers are available in a few more color combinations
than the hardy lilies. Water lilies can be purchased already growing in a pot or as
a rhizome that needs to be planted. With patience, growing your own can be a rewarding
experience. Consider these tips.

Plant water lilies in a large pot before placing them in the pond. Use a plastic pot
or one that will not deteriorate in water. The pot should have holes in the bottom
and the sides to allow water to move through the pot.

Fill the pot with a silt-loam or clay-type soil. Leave 2 to 3 inches of space at the
top. Some nurseries sell specific soil to use in aquatic plant pots. Do not use a
potting soil mix or a light soil for water plants. These contain materials that will
float out of the pot and make a mess in the pond.

Place the rhizome at a 45 degree angle in the soil. Planting it close to one side
of the pot is usually recommended. The rhizome will have an eye or offshoot that is
the growing point of the lily. It should be placed at the top of the soil and not
covered up. Put two to four fertilizer pellets in the soil at the time of planting
to ensure a good start for the lilies.

Once the rhizome is planted, cover the soil with pea gravel or a few large rocks.
This helps keep the soil in the pot and around the lily. Again, be aware of where
the offshoot is placed.

Once the lily is planted, it is ready to be placed in the pond. Water the pot well
before setting it in the pond.

Place rocks or other pots on the floor of the pond to raise or lower lilies so they
are at the right distance from the surface of the water. Since hardy lilies are planted
a little deeper, they may take slightly longer to reach the surface and start blooming.
To speed this process, start them in a slightly more shallow section of the pond.
As they begin to grow, set them down deeper. Once the lilies reach the surface with
their leaves, the beautiful blossoms are not far behind.

There are many varieties of lilies, and each has a different color and leaf shape.
Consult your local nursery to find out what is available. You may also want to visit
the pond section of the nursery just to enjoy the sounds and sights.

Visit http//extension.usu.edu for more information on Utah State University Extension.

Crispness is the hallmark of a good pickled vegetable. Crispness comes from the vegetable’s
natural pectin — the same pectin we extract from apples and citrus to make jams and
jellies. Consider these tips for pickling crisp vegetables.

Use only just-picked vegetables for pickling. The most important factor in getting
crisp pickled vegetables is to start with fresh, just-picked vegetables. Vegetables
become soft as the pectin structure changes due to microbial activity, excess heat
or improper handling. As each day passes, vegetables lose crispness. Once a vegetable
is soft, it cannot be made firm again.

Use only top quality vegetables for pickling. For cucumber pickles, use cucumbers
intended for pickling that are no more then two inches in diameter. Remove the blossom
end, since the blossom harbors microbes that can cause softening. Start with crisp,
raw vegetable varieties.

Use only safe, research-based recipes to pickle foods. It is important to have the
proper acidity level to produce a safe product. Consider research-based recipes found
in the USDA Complete Guide to Canning, the National Center for Home Food Preservation
Web site at www.homefoodsafety.com or through Utah State University Extension.

Use low-temperature pasteurization. Cucumber pickles may be processed for 30 minutes
at 180-185 F. Use a thermometer to be certain the water temperature remains above
180 F the entire 30 minutes. Keep the temperature below 185 F to avoid breaking down
the pectin, which causes softening of the pickle.

Reconsider refrigerator pickles. Instead of heat treating pickled foods, some recipes
call for keeping them at refrigeration temperatures. For many years this method was
thought to be safe. However, recent evidence that Listeria monocytogenes can survive
in these foods has led to a recommendation against this method until further studies
are performed on its safety. Until further studies are completed, it is recommended
to use the low-temperature pasteurization method above, even if the foods are placed
in the refrigerator.

Consider these methods to firm pickles meant for canning:

Use of alum. If high quality ingredients are used and up-to-date methods are followed,
firming agents are not needed for crisp pickles. If you choose to use firming agents,
alum (aluminum potassium sulfate) may be used to firm fermented canned pickles, but
has little crispness effect on quick-process canned pickles. Alum will increase firmness
of canned fermented pickles when used at levels up to 1/4 teaspoon per pint. Addition
of greater than 1/4 teaspoon alum per pint decreases firmness.

Use of calcium to firm pickles. Lime (calcium hydroxide) can improve pickle firmness.
Food-grade lime can be used as a lime-water solution for soaking fresh cucumbers 12
to 24 hours before pickling them. Excess lime absorbed by the cucumbers must be removed
to make safe pickles. To remove excess lime, drain the lime-water solution, rinse
and re-soak the cucumbers in fresh water for one hour. Drain and rinse again.

Use of Ball Calcium Chloride Pickle Crisp. This product is a food grade calcium chloride
salt. It provides the calcium to help firm pectin, but does not have the hydroxide
component that can lower the acidity of pickled foods. Follow the manufacturer’s directions.

Use of ice to firm pickles. Soak cucumbers or other vegetables in ice water for four
to five hours before pickling.

Use of grape leaves to firm pickles. Historically, grape leaves are sometimes added
to pickle products. The tannins in grape leaves inhibit the pectinase enzyme (a chemical
that breaks down and softens the pectin structure). However, this enzyme is located
at the blossom end of the cucumber and if it is removed, this process is redundant.

Canned pickled vegetables will retain their quality for one year and will begin to
lose quality and nutrition over the second year. After the second year — if the seal
is intact — the food is safe, but the food will be of low quality and low nutritional
value. When pickling low acid foods, it can’t be emphasized enough that research-tested
recipes and processes should be followed. Incorrect acidification can result in botulism
food poisoning.

Earlier this season we sprayed with Dursban, can we still eat the fruit?

A

When pesticides are used according to their label directions, residues are kept to
a minimum, food quality and appeal increase and sprayed food products are safe to
eat.

Dursban is a trade name for the pesticide chlorpyrifos and is used around homes and
gardens. Lorsban is another trade name for chlorpyrifos and is mostly used on agricultural
crops.

If Dursban was applied as the label instructed, your fruit should be safe to eat.
In addition to applying the pesticide correctly, you must also pay attention to the
“intervals to harvest” which is how long you should wait after spraying before picking
the produce. This interval allows time for the pesticide to break down and decrease
the residue on the fruit to a very low level.

Your question probably comes from the recent EPA decision to remove some chlorpyrifos
uses. This EPA regulatory action was taken primarily to increase the level of safety
and reduce potential exposures to children.

To enhance the safety of our food supply EPA removed chlorpyrifos from use on tomatoes
and apples after they bloom and foliar applications on grapes — all high intake foods
for children.

To reduce potential exposures to children as well as the rest of the public, EPA will
prohibit the use of chlorpyrifos in and around homes, including lawns and gardens,
and around schools, parks and other areas frequently used by children. Agricultural
uses will see reductions in rates and in frequency of applications. Intervals to harvest
and worker reentry intervals will be increased.

Residential use of containerized baits will continue as well as use in other indoor
nonresidential areas where children will not be exposed, such as warehouses, manufacturing
plants, food processing plants, railroad boxcars, etc. Outdoor use will continue in
areas where children will not be exposed, such as golf courses, road medians, fence
posts, utility polls, landscape timbers and other similar wood products. Public health
uses for fire ant and mosquito control will also continue. Usage for termites around
homes will gradually be phased out over the next five years starting with full barrier
home post construction applications in 2002.

All of the regulatory actions have different time frames for implementation to take
effect, but all will be completed by the end of 2005.

Reports from some government agencies and retailers indicate that there is some confusion
about what to do with chlorpyrifos products on hand. Use was not prohibited for already
purchased products and there is no recall of products. People can use what they have
according to label directions. There is concern that many people are going to discard
their chlorpyrifos products into the trash, which means the insecticide will end up
in the landfill. If this happens with large numbers of containers all over the United
States, you can end up with more pollution than if the product was used as it was
supposed to be.

The recommended method of disposal for pesticides is to use it all according to directions
on the label rather than throw it into the trash. This distributes the pesticide at
a low rate evenly over a large area. Then, sunlight, microorganisms, moisture and
other environmental chemicals can break down the pesticide molecules and decrease
the toxicity to that of carbon dioxide, sulfur, phosphorous, chlorine and nitrogen,
which are already major components of our environments.

You can continue to purchase and use Dursban and other chlorpyrifos products as instructed
on the label until supplies are no longer available or the manufacture has been stopped.
With careful use you should be able to realize the benefits that the product has to
offer and avoid the inherent risks that come with using pesticides.

Just as berry fruits approach maturity and are ready to pick, there are fruit-eating
insects that can reduce the harvestable crop and contaminate the berry product. Some
of the common fruit-eating insects observed in Utah include the stink bug, lygus bug,
earwig, grasshopper, and several species of fruit-eating wasps. These insects suck
or chew into the individual drupelets or may remove the entire fruits. Frequent inspections
of ripening fruits (several times per week) by physically shaking the canes to dislodge
insects onto a cloth or plastic tray can provide early-warning and help prevent fruit-eating
insects from causing economic yield loss. If damaging insects are detected, the most
common method of management is insecticide application. It is very important to carefully
observe the pre-harvest or required time interval between application and picking
fruits. Pre-harvest intervals are listed on product labels. Recommended insecticides
that have low toxicity to humans include neem oil (Azatin) and spinosad (Success,
Entrust). Conventional insecticides that will deter fruit-feeders include carbaryl
(Sevin), malathion, permethrin, and esfenvalerate.

The consperse stink bug (Euschistus conspersus) and green stink bug (Acrosternum hilare) are large (1/2 to 5/8 inch long), brown or bright green bugs with a shield-shaped,
flattened body. They feed on individual drupelets causing them to shrivel. Stink bugs
release a bad odor and contaminate the berries at harvest. Lygus bug (Lygus hesperus) are small (1/4 inch long), green and brown bugs that are attracted to flowers and
developing fruit. They cause misshapen fruit similar to stink bug by feeding on individual
drupelets. They are usually present at low density and do not cause economic damage
to raspberries.

The European earwig (Forficula auricularia) is ½ to 3/4 inches long, shiny brown, and with a pair of forceps-like claspers at
the tip of the abdomen. They are nocturnal and their presence or damage may go unnoticed
until harvest. Earwigs feed on fruit and foliage. Foliage feeding is of little concern. Management
requires the removal of daytime harboring sites and prevention of access to fruit
before it ripens. Remove weeds from around the base of canes and vines. Keep rows
clear of prunings and debris under which earwigs could nest. Earwigs can be trapped
by using Tanglefoot® or a similar adhesive material applied to the base of canes to
prevent their crawling into plants. To monitor for earwigs, place boards or rolled-up
newspapers in the fields in spring and monitor weekly for earwigs that hide under
the boards or in newspapers. Treat the ground and lower canes with carbaryl at the
beginning of spring activity when earwigs are found.

In areas where berry fields are situated near open rangeland or undeveloped land,
grasshoppers may move onto canes near harvest to feed on fruits and leaves. Fruit-protecting
insecticide treatments described above may be effective. Placement of insecticide
bait (bran coated with carbaryl or Nosema locustae, a protozoan biological control) around field borders when young grasshopper nymphs
are first observed may also reduce grasshopper populations. Repeat applications of
bait will likely be required to cover several months of grasshopper activity and to
replenish baits after rainfall or irrigation events. Insecticide baits are not effective
at killing adult grasshoppers.

Two types of wasps are common berry-eaters: the yellow jacket (Vespula germanica) and European paper wasp (Polistes dominulus). They may also be a nuisance to workers by stinging them. Yellow jackets nest in
the ground. If ground nests are detected, they can be treated with conventional insecticides,
dug up and removed to destroy them. Also, placing commercial traps that contain heptyl
butyrate bait at the perimeter of berry fields can reduce wasp numbers. The European
paper wasp builds umbrella-shaped nests under the eaves of buildings and other protected
sites. Paper wasps are not attracted to yellow jacket traps. Removal of nests and
protection of fruit near harvest with one of the insecticides mentioned above may
provide some control.

Pesticide use requires disposal of either excess pesticides or empty pesticide containers.
You can reduce the pesticides or pesticide containers you need to dispose of if you
follow these practices:

Purchase only the amount of the pesticide needed for a single season.

Calculate the amount of pesticide needed to treat the site. Mix that amount and apply
it with properly calibrated equipment. Carefully mix and load so there is no spillage.

Minimize liquid wastes, including spray material left after an application and the
water used to wash and rinse the spray equipment. Use liquids according to application
directions.

Protect pesticides so they remain useful and the labels are legible. Store them in
a cool location, out of the sun and in locked cabinets. Keep them in their original
containers and out of reach of children or animals. Sunlight, moisture and excessive
heat or cold can destroy pesticide effectiveness. Use older products first.

If you have on hand more than you need:

Read the storage and disposal section of the label for special disposal instructions.

If label directions allow, apply excess pesticides in a second application.

If you cannot use all yourself, consider giving the pesticide, in its original container,
to another applicator to use according to label directions.

See if your county and city health departments accept home and garden pesticide products
for disposal.

Safely store pesticides until an acceptable method for disposal is available. This
may involve storage for extended times and safe storage is difficult.

See if there are requirements for the proper cleaning of pesticide containers before
disposal. Directions are in the storage and disposal section of the label. Most commonly,
cleaning is accomplished by triple rinsing containers with water or shaking out paper
or plastic bags. To triple rinse:

The best monitoring device for yards and gardens is a simple stroll through the landscape
every evening or two. If you pay attention to certain areas, and know what to look
for, most infestations can be spotted while they are small and easy to control. If
you forget, and only venture into the garden once every week or two, what was a small
problem has become gigantic and is much harder to control. Here are some monitoring
tips:

Know where to look and what the damage looks like. Look for plants that appear damaged.
Some pests eat chunks out of leaves, soft herbaceous growth and even wood. Examine
the leaves - especially those close to the ground.

Slugs and snails normally take bites out of the leaves in their territory. They often
eat the margins of the leaves, leaving only the veins and stalks in their wake. They
also may leave a slimy trail, but not always. Since they feed at night, they are usually
off sleeping, oblivious to our fretting about the damage during the day.

Other night feeders are the black root weevils. This group of nasty insects removes
perfect little semi-circular shapes around the edges of many plants. Their damage
begins to appear this time of year. The adults and larva live in the soil, and the
black adults come out to feed at night. Grasshoppers are another common leaf-eater.
They consume nearly anything that is in their path including berries, small trees
and napping dogs. Normally they do their damage throughout the day, where we can see
them.

Feel the leaves of the plants while strolling through the yard. If they are sticky,
aphids are probably to blame. They also roll the leaves as they begin to feed. This
is another symptom to look for on the plants. Aphids do not bite, but they do suck
on plants. The ground may also be a little sticky under a tree that has an aphid infestation.

Mites are another sucking insect. However, they do not normally leave a sticky mess
as they eat. Mite damage is evident when the leaves start to turn yellow, rust or
other off color. If you suspect mite damage, hold a white piece of paper under the
leaves and shake them a little. If the small dots on the paper start to move, chances
are they are mites.

Occasionally, you may spot some leaves that are beginning to wilt. This can be an
indication that the plants are either getting too much or too little water. Dig around
the base of the plant to check the moisture level and condition of the roots. If the
soil is bone dry three to four inches down, more water may be needed. If the soil
is damp, the plant may be suffering from root rot or another problem associated with
over watering. Often the soil will smell a little musty and old. Cut into a root and
examine it. It should be firm and white. If it is soft or mushy, with brown, purple
or black streaks, it is rot. Let the soil dry out and adjust your watering schedule.

Over-watering also contributes to iron chlorosis. This is most noticeable on the newer
leaves of the plants. They turn a yellowish color while the veins remain green. Examine
both the newer and older leaves to see if there is any difference in their color and
growth.

Look for other plants that appear to be off-colored. Compare them with similar, healthy
plants. Monitoring the landscape regularly makes it easier to notice any change in
appearance. It is also much easier to control a pest problem while it is still small
and before it gets out of hand.

Proper care at harvest and correct storage make it possible to enjoy your garden’s
bounty for weeks or even months into the winter. No single storage method is correct
for all fruits and vegetables. Here are some tips for specific produce.

TOMATOES should be picked just before the first killing frost. Pick those that are
just turning slightly pink or those turning light green or slightly white. They need
not be individually wrapped, but keep them in a single layer as it’s easier to check
for spoilage. Keep them at about 50 to 55 degrees. They will ripen at 70 degrees.
They don’t need to be put in sunlight to ripen and may sunburn in a window.

GREEN PEPPERS that are firm, mature and the correct color can be kept for two to three
weeks in perforated bags in a cool location.

ONIONS should be left in the ground until there is a hard frost if the tops are still
intact. If the tops fall over on their own or dry up, the onion bulb should be harvested.
They can be dug and left on top of the ground to cure for a few days and then put
in a shady area until the tops and scales on the outside of the bulbs are dry. The
most important thing is good air circulation. Do not put onions in paper sacks or
boxes. Once they are cured and dry, place them in mesh bags (or use old pantyhose)
so they will continue to have good circulation. Store them in a cool, dry location.

POTATOES are best left on the vine in the soil. As long as the vines are green and
growing keep potatoes watered to increase your yield. Once the vines have died down
you should leave the potatoes in the ground for 10 to 14 days to allow the skins to
cure so they will scuff less when they are dug. Remove loose soil and wash the potatoes
if you wish. Make sure the potatoes are thoroughly dry before storing at 35 to 40
degrees. When using potatoes from storage, bring them to room temperature for a week
or so before using them. This will reverse the process of starches turning to sugar
at the cooler temperatures.

PUMPKINS and WINTER SQUASH should be left on the vine until the rind is hard and cannot
be easily scratched. Leave an inch of stem to prevent rotting at the crown.

PARSNIPS, CARROTS and BEETS can be stored right in the ground. Once the tops have
frozen, mulch over the row to keep the ground from freezing so hard that you can’t
dig the vegetables. Label your rows so you can find what you want when snow covers
the ground. If you don’t store these root vegetables in the garden, dig them before
the ground freezes. Remove excess soil, cut off stems, and store in a pit or storage
cellar. Beets will not keep as long as carrots. Parsnips develop better flavor after
several weeks in cold, moist conditions.

The true answer is: you don't. But you can slow it down and manage it. When temperatures
are cool enough (80 daytime max), and bindweed is in the lawn, you can spray it with
an herbicide containing 2,4-D. You cannot spray these weedkillers while temperatures
reach above 80 for one or two days after spraying, because the chemical will volatilize
and float over to nearby plants and damage them. In areas where there isn't any other
desired plants, you can spray bindweed with a broad spectrum herbicide containing
glyphosate (like Roundup).http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html

Bindweed is really loving our hot weather, because our Kentucky bluegrass is heat
stressed and not competing well. A vigorous, healthy lawn can usually out-compete
bindweed. Three to four inches of mulch over soil will keep bindweed under control,
too.

Slugs and snails are one of the most universal garden problems. These mollusks are
not insects, so insecticides are not effective. Slug and snail control starts in
late summer or fall, and each over-wintering pest lays up to 400 eggs which will hatch
in the spring. Clean up debris and weeds where they hide in the fall and apply bait
during the growing season.Iron phosphate is an effective snail/slug control and has little off-target toxicity.

Squash bugs are very difficult to control. Insecticides are not very effective, but
if insecticides are used they work best against the very young nymphs.

If you plan to use insecticides, sprays should be applied when small nymphs are present,
which generally occurs early in the season.

Before spraying, check plants carefully to make certain that small nymphs are present.
Squash bugs hide on the underside of leaves or down near the base of the plant.

Nonchemical methods of control are usually as effective as insecticides. Serious attack
by squash bugs can be avoided by planting sensitive varieties early so harvest is
complete by early August.

Once harvest is complete, remove the squash plants from garden. Plants left in the
garden allow the bugs to build up to higher numbers, which will lead to greater problems
the following year.

Plant varieties of squash that are less sensitive to the bugs. Zucchini seems to be
the variety most sensitive to attack by squash bugs. Other summer varieties and most
winter varieties seem better able to tolerate feeding by squash bugs.

Squash bugs are active during the day. At night the bugs hide under boards or other
objects. This behavior can be used against them in small scale plantings such as gardens.
Place boards near the plants (between rows or around the garden edge) and early every
morning turn them over and squish all the bugs you find.

Squash bugs also seek out sites like wood piles or sheds to spend the winter. Large
numbers of bugs overwintering in these sites can lead to high numbers of bugs in your
garden the following year.

How do I get rid of the subterranean creature(s) (moles?)that pushing up piles of
freshly excavated dirt in all my flower beds and into my sprinkler valve boxes?

A

To control wildlife, you normally exclude the pest or change the habitat. or both.
For moles, trapping is the most effective control method. There are some toxicants
(baits) that are also available. I would contact places like IFA that carry traps
and baits and see which they prefer. If you use baits, you will need to be careful
of "non-target" species. Don't leave the bait out where other animals or birds may
eat it.I hope this information is of use to you.

Holidays

Q

Do you have tips for reducing holiday trash?

A

Americans throw away 25 percent more trash between Thanksgiving and New Year’s than
they do at any other time of the year. This translates into an extra 25 million tons
of garbage sent to landfills and incinerators.

It takes valuable resources to dispose of the additional waste, and even more resources
to make the materials in the first place. For example, according to The Use Less Stuff
Report, 2.65 billion holiday cards are sold in the United States each year. That is
enough to fill a football field 10 stories high. If each person sent one less card,
50,000 cubic yards of paper would be saved per year.

Consider the following tips to reduce holiday waste and save money.

Choose a living Christmas tree. When the holidays are over, plant it in your yard
or donate it to a local school. Another option is to purchase an artificial tree that
can be used each year. Give movie or concert tickets, gift certificates or make a
donation to a local charity in someone’s name.

Be creative when wrapping gifts. Look around the house for unusual wrapping materials.
Old baskets, children’s artwork and scrap fabric work well and can be reused on other
occasions. Consider hiding children’s presents around the house and leaving clues
rather than wrapping the gifts. Buy rechargeable batteries for children’s toys and
home electronics. Forty percent of annual battery sales occur during the holiday period.
Consider giving batteries and a recharger as part of the gift. Be a smart shopper.
To reduce trips to the store, begin your shopping on the phone or Internet, then organize
shopping trips so that driving time is reduced. Bring your own shopping bag or use
one large bag for all purchases.

When sending gifts by mail, package them with reused boxes, bubble wrap or peanuts.
Wrap boxes in brown paper grocery bags for mailing. Use dishes and glassware for parties
rather than buying disposable paper goods. If your party is larger than your dish
and glassware supply, try renting these items. Cut the cards. Review and trim your
holiday card list. Consider those on your list who might prefer an electronic card
instead. Save the cards you receive and use them as gift tags, decorations and wrapping
material. Consider giving homemade baked goods or crafts as gifts. Get the kids involved
in making holiday cards, decorations and ornaments instead of buying them. Remember
what the holidays are really about. In the midst of all the pressure to buy the right
gifts, get things mailed on time and prepare your house for guests, don’t forget that
giving and getting are the least important parts of the season.

Many Utahns will soon visit their local tree grower or tree lot in search of the perfect
Christmas tree. Selecting a good tree and proper care for it once it is home can ensure
a safer, more enjoyable holiday season. Consider these tips.

Before going shopping, measure the area in your home where the tree will be placed.

Measure both width and ceiling height.

Remember that several inches will be cut from the butt end, but also that the stand
will add several inches to the tree’s overall height.

To ensure that the tree will remain evergreen through the holidays, check for freshness
and moistness. Once needles become dry, they usually stay dry -- even when the tree
is placed in a stand with water. The best way to ensure that your tree is fresh is
to buy from a local grower or from a retailer you know and trust. Trees shipped into
Christmas tree lots from out of state may be fresh, but some can be old and dry. Gently
pull on several needles to check for freshness. If many come off, look for another
tree. Also, lift the tree and strike the butt end on the ground. If many needles fall
from the twigs, the tree is probably not fresh. You can also break a few needles to
see if they are moist and fragrant. Don’t worry if old unattached needles have accumulated
inside the crown. Though these needles can be messy, they do not indicate a poor tree
and can easily be removed. Fir and pine trees hold needles better than spruce trees.
Check the color. Some trees are sprayed with blue-green dye. Though the dye can be
harmless, it can be hiding a dry tree. Be sure tree limbs are strong enough to support
lights and ornaments. Limbs should also be well placed to give the tree a pleasing
shape. Minor defects in the tree can often be turned toward a wall and can also lower
the purchase price. Once a fresh tree is brought home, re-cut a thin section from
the butt end and place the tree in a pail of water until you are ready to decorate
it. Keep the tree outside and away from sun and wind so it does not become dry. When
you are ready to bring the tree in, cut the butt end again if it has been stored more
than three or four days. This cut section can be hung with a ribbon and made into
an ornament by marking the rings with significant years in your family’s history.
Most sections will have seven to 10 growth rings. Once inside, the tree should be
placed in a sturdy stand that holds at least one gallon of water. A fresh tree can
lose this much or more water a day. Place the tree away from heaters, furnace vents,
televisions and other heat sources. Lights on the tree should be UL approved and protected
by an inline fuse. Small pinpoint lights work well because they stay cool. Don't be
sentimental about old Christmas tree lights. Old lights with cracked insulation or
loose sockets should be discarded. Turn lights off when the tree is unattended. Flammable
decorations should not be used on a Christmas tree with electric lights. Candles should
never be used to light a Christmas tree or wreath. A fresh tree that is watered daily
can stay moist and safe for several weeks. If a tree is displayed in a public building,
it should be kept no longer than 15 days and should be treated with a fire retardant
solution.

Christmas trees can be useful even after they are taken down. Trees can be placed
in the yard to add greenery and act as a bird haven until spring. They can also be
used for firewood or chopped and used as mulch. Many communities have programs to
gather trees after Christmas to be chipped as mulch or used for other purposes. Choose-and-cut
trees are available from Christmas tree growers throughout Utah. Use the same selection
tips to buy a choose-and-cut tree as you would a pre-cut tree. Some growers will cut
the tree for you, and others will have you cut your own. For the locations of local
growers, contact your county Extension office. For additional information on Christmas
trees, visit http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/HomeTown/General_UtahChristmasTrees.htm
or http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/HomeTown/General_ChristmasTrees.htm.

A fresh-cut Christmas tree can delight the holiday senses. However, most live Christmas
trees in Utah are not grown here. They are usually brought in from other states. The
following are suggestions on where to obtain freshly cut, Utah-grown Christmas trees.

Land management agencies. Christmas tree permits (for both individual tree buyers
and commercial cutters) are sometimes available from Utah's land management agencies.
Call your local agency office for up-to-date information. Agencies that sometimes
have trees available are the USDA Forest Service at http://www.fs.fed.us/ (click on
“By State” box and enter Utah to get Utah National Forest information); Bureau of
Land Management at http://www.ut.blm.gov/ (click on “Directory” for a listing of field
offices); and the Utah Division of Forestry, Fire and State Lands at http://www.ffsl.utah.gov/
(click on “About Us” for a list of area offices).

Tree lots. Occasionally you may find tree lots that sell pre-cut trees harvested live
from Utah’s forests. These can be excellent places to get a fresh tree. Tree species
you are likely to find on these lots include pinyon pine, subalpine fir, Douglas-fir
and lodgepole pine.

Choose-and-cut trees. Utah has relatively few businesses that sell locally grown Christmas
trees. Visit http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/HomeTown/General_UtahChristmasTrees.htm
to see several Utah listings.

Once you’ve selected the perfect tree and brought it home, consider these tips for
care.

Re-cut a thin section from the butt end and place the tree in a pail of water until
you are ready to decorate it. Keep the tree outside and away from sun and wind so
it does not become dry. When you are ready to bring the tree in, cut the butt end
again if it has been stored more than three or four days. This cut section can be
hung with a ribbon and made into an ornament by marking the rings with significant
years in your family’s history. Most sections will have seven to 10 growth rings.

The tree should be placed in a sturdy stand that holds at least one gallon of water.
A fresh tree can lose this much or more water a day. Place the tree away from heaters,
furnace vents, televisions and other heat sources.

Lights on the tree should be UL approved and protected by an inline fuse. Small pinpoint
lights work well because they stay cool. Don't be sentimental about old Christmas
tree lights. Old lights with cracked insulation or loose sockets should be discarded.
Turn lights off when the tree is unattended. Flammable decorations should not be used
on a Christmas tree with electric lights. Candles should never be used to light a
Christmas tree or wreath.

A fresh tree that is watered daily can stay moist and safe for several weeks. If a
tree is displayed in a public building, it should be kept no longer than 15 days and
should be treated with a fire retardant solution.

Christmas trees can be useful even after they are taken down. Trees can be placed
in the yard to add greenery and act as a bird haven until spring. They can also be
used for firewood or chopped and used as mulch. Many communities have programs to
gather trees to be chipped as mulch or used for other purposes after the holidays.

As the holidays approach, we anticipate being together with family and friends, giving
gifts and observing family traditions. The enjoyment of the season can be diminished,
however, if our expectations are not reasonable.

For some, the holidays can bring feelings of sadness, particularly in contrast to
the way things are “supposed” to be. The holidays can be especially difficult for
those who have experienced the death of someone close and are facing the season for
the first time without that person. Even after many years, the holidays can become
a marker of how many years it has been since a loved one died. Divorce, family disruptions,
illness, financial problems or other kinds of loss or change can also make the season
difficult.

Whatever your situation, it is important to be realistic in what you expect from the
holidays. Consider these tips.

Focus on traditions that are meaningful or start new ones. Some holiday traditions
may not fit as well as they once did if there have been family changes such as death,
remarriage or children getting older. Spending the holidays in a different way may
bring new enjoyment to the season. This may work better than trying to recreate a
Christmas from previous years when the family was in a different stage.

Avoid a “now or never” frame of mind about the holidays. We may think, “If this party,
gift or family activity isn’t just right, the whole season will be ruined and we won’t
have the chance to make it right for another year.” Or, “The children will never be
this age again. They have to love every minute and have every toy.” We set ourselves
up for a letdown when we tell ourselves that the holidays are our chance to get everything
just right.

Be realistic in financial expectations. Financial worries over not being able to do
or buy the things we see depicted in advertisements or that we see others doing can
lead to feelings of inadequacy and sadness. Be realistic in how much you can spend
and what works for you and your family.

Focus on one or two things you enjoy and plan to do those. Pace yourself. Which holiday
activities really bring enjoyment? Are there other activities you impose on yourself
or your family that aren’t as enjoyable? Don't let the things that matter most be
at the mercy of the things that matter least. What is going to mean the most to your
family or loved ones? It may simply be time spent together rather than a frantic rush
to plan or do one more thing.

Be aware of fatigue. Being overtired can result in feelings of depression if the quest
for holiday cheer becomes too frenzied.

Be reasonable. Instead of saying, “Things just have to go well,” try, “It will be
nice if ...” And instead of, “I just can’t stand it if ...” remind yourself, “It will
still be OK even if ...”

Plan things to look forward to when the holidays are over. The Christmas season is
a great time, but it isn’t the only happy time. Remind yourself that there are many
opportunities to show love for your family and friends throughout the year.

Poinsettias are native Mexican plants. They love the holiday season because they are
short-day plants that require long nights to launch their color change. The colorful
bracts of these plants are leaves, not flowers, with the most common bract color being
red. The flower buds are the red or green buttons in the center of the bracts that
open to a small yellow flower. Healthy poinsettias have dark green leaves below the
bracts and foliage all the way to the base. With proper care and attention, your poinsettia
can brighten your home for months to come. Consider these tips.

Poinsettias need a minimum of six hours of indirect sunlight each day. Protect the
plants from freezing temperatures, especially when transporting them. Place them in
a light-filled room away from drafts. They do best in rooms between 55 and 65 F at
night and 65 to 70 F during the day. Keep poinsettias away from cooler locations and
avoid exposing them to temperatures below 50 F. Water poinsettias when the soil is
dry 2 to 3 inches down. The plants are very sensitive to overwatering and will develop
root rot quickly if kept too wet. Water the pot thoroughly, letting excess water drain
out of the bottom. Apply an all purpose, water-soluble fertilizer once a week to keep
plants healthy during the holidays. Once the colorful bracts drop off, reduce watering
and fertilization to give the plants a rest period. Trim the poinsettia back so that
just a few leaves are left. With proper care, poinsettia bracts can be maintained
until about March or April. Once they begin to fall, cut the plant back, leaving about
six buds. For the first couple of weeks, the plant will resemble a stick. Water and
fertilize as before, and by May it will begin to leaf out again. For an interesting,
unusual outdoor plant, poinsettias can be taken outside in the spring when the danger
of a freeze is past. Place the plant in a shady location, and it can be enjoyed throughout
the summer. To keep the plant small and compact, cut it back about mid-July and early
September to stimulate branching. Beginning the first of October, put the plant in
complete darkness as soon as the sun sets, allowing a minimum of 14 hours of darkness.
A bag can be placed over the plant, or it can be set in a closet throughout the day.
By the end of November, it will start to color and you will be able to enjoy it for
another season.

You would want to read the label on the lights to see if they are suited for indoor
use. Many lights are labeled as indoor/outdoor lights. However,outdoor lights are
too hot for the indoor Christmas tree so make sure youread the package carefully before
purchasing them. They look so similar to indoor lights that you might not realize
they are outdoor if you don't look closely.

Fresh citrus has a strong traditional association with the holidays and gift-giving.
Oranges, grapefruits, lemons and limes are readily available during the holiday season.
Citrus fruits make a great holiday gift that is also packed with nutrients. Eating
just one orange provides 130 percent of the daily value of vitamin C, 28 percent of
fiber and 12 percent of folic acid. It contains only 70 calories and is fat free,
cholesterol free and sodium free. Consider this information on the nutrients in citrus
fruit.

Vitamin C improves the immune system. It acts as an antioxidant and helps form collagen,
a protein needed for healthy skin, teeth and bones. It also aids in iron absorption.
Fiber reduces the risk for certain types of cancer, helps lower blood cholesterol
levels and helps control blood glucose levels. Folic acid helps prevent serious neural
tube birth defects and may lower the risk for heart disease.

When shopping for citrus, look for fruits that are firm and heavy for their size with
bright, colorful skins. Avoid fruit with bruised, wrinkled or discolored skins. This
indicates the fruit is old or has been stored incorrectly. Peel thickness will vary
depending on the season, weather and growing conditions.

Oranges can be stored at room temperature for several days. For longer storage, refrigerate
them in a plastic bag or in the crisper. Don’t worry when shopping if you run across
a Valencia orange with a slightly green-colored skin. Green-tinged Valencias are actually
at their best — fully ripe, sweet and juicy. The fully ripe fruit occasionally “regreens”
in warm weather. After the fruit turns a bright orange color, the skin reabsorbs chlorophyll
causing a ripe orange to look partially green.

In a large saucepan, bring sugar, water and spices to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer
for about 10 minutes. Add orange, lemon and pineapple juice and simmer. Place orange
and lemon slices in punch bowl. Pour hot punch over citrus slices and serve. Makes
about 16 cups.

The Christmas season is upon us, and outdoor decorations are being purchased and unpacked
with anticipation. The holidays are enhanced by exterior lighting, but it is important
to exercise caution when selecting and installing them. Each year, holiday lighting
contributes to injuries caused by electrical shock, falls and fires. Holiday lighting
fires annually cause property damage in excess of $16 million. Consider the following
to avoid injury as you decorate for the holidays.

When purchasing outdoor Christmas lighting, look for labels marked with UL or ETL.
This indicates the product has been tested by an independent laboratory recognized
by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). Outdoor lights with these
labels satisfy the minimum standards for product safety.

When selecting lights for exterior installation, be sure the packaging states that
it is designated for outdoor use. Outdoor lighting is weatherproof and designed for
temporary operation in harsh winter weather. Do not purchase used Christmas lights
or lighting not in the original package.

When selecting outdoor lights, consider purchasing strings with miniature, low-heat
producing bulbs. These lights require less amperage and are less likely to overload
electrical outlets.

Purchase appropriately sized timers to automatically turn lights on and off. Lights
should be turned off when people are not present and they should not be left on overnight.

Electrical outlets for exterior lighting should accommodate three-prong grounded plugs
and should be on an electrical circuit protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter
(GFCI). Portable outdoor GFCIs can be purchased at hardware stores if this circuit
protection is not available.

If extension cords are required for outdoor lights, use those designed for outdoor
use with three-prong plugs. Never use an indoor cord or a cord without the third prong.
Plug the cord into a grounded outlet and select a cord with the shortest length that
works for your project. Do not use a 100-foot extension cord for a 10-foot distance.
Keep outdoor electrical connections above the ground and out of the snow and water.
If extension cords must cross walkways, tape them down.

When connecting outdoor lighting, be careful not to create a maze of extension cords,
plugs and wires that all come from the same electrical outlet. Electrical outlets
and timers used for Christmas lights should be readily accessible for quick disconnection
or adjustment as necessary.

When installing lights, be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
These instructions should be stored with the lights and referred to when purchasing
replacement bulbs and on future installations.

Check the manufacturer's guidelines to determine the number of light strings that
may be safely plugged together. If the packaging does not indicate the number, connect
no more than three light strings together.

Before installing newly purchased or previously used Christmas lighting, plug the
string in and make sure all the bulbs operate properly. When unpacking outdoor lights
used during previous years, carefully inspect them for frayed, loose or bare wires
and damaged bulbs or sockets. Discard damaged light strings.

One of the greatest dangers when installing outdoor lighting involves the use of ladders.
Use a high-quality, sturdy ladder that is the proper height. Be sure it is securely
positioned. To avoid falls, move the ladder as necessary rather than leaning on it
from side to side.

When installing outdoor lights, use screw-in hooks or other fasteners that will not
damage the insulation on the lighting strings. Nails and staple guns can easily cut
or damage insulation and conductors.

Refer to the manufacturer's guidelines to determine the recommended spacing for supports
and the maximum span allowed for the light string. Christmas lights are generally
designed to span distances of only a few feet and should be supported at intervals
every few feet.

Securely attach outdoor light strings to buildings, trees or other objects to prevent
displacement by wind or other weather conditions. When possible, point the lamp sockets
down to avoid moisture buildup and do not operate light strings with missing bulbs.

Unplug outdoor lights when replacing bulbs so there is no danger of shock. Reduce
damage to lights by handling them carefully when installing and removing them and
when packing and storing.

Remove outdoor lighting at the end of the Christmas season. Christmas lights are not
designed to withstand prolonged exposure to sun and weather.

Home

Sub Topics

I have some water pipes to my tub on on a outside wall. What can be done to keep them
from freezing and breaking?

A

Protecting plumbing fixtures within and/or adjacent to the exterior walls of a bathroom
where the bathtub is against the exterior wall.

Not knowing your specific circumstances, the age of your home, or the construction
details, I will offer some general suggestion to solve the problem. I hope the following
will be of assistance.

Short term or immediate solution:

An electric space heater placed in close proximity to a metal tub and close to the
plumbing fixtures (pipes, fitting, faucets, etc.) will raise the temperature of these
materials above freezing and prevent the pipes from freezing. In some cases the
wall may actually need to be opened to allow access to the plumbing fixtures. When
the temperature is very cold (less than 20 degrees F) it may be necessary to leave
the water running (both hot and cold) to prevent freezing. Both of these strategies
are not cost efficient, are not the final solution, but may be necessary on a short
term basis.

Permanent Solution:

When the weather allows for home repair activities, the bathroom plumbing fixtures
in and/or adjacent to the exterior wall(s) must have their insulation and the insulation
of the exterior wall significantly increased (also the floor and ceiling of the bathroom
may need insulating). Suggested changes might include increased wall insulation (more
and/or new insulation), insulation wrapping for the pipes, and foam sealing of all
opening that allow air to move between the inside and outside of the home. If possible
a cabinet door access may need to be installed so the plumbing fixtures can be accessed
from inside the house during cold weather. The door access may be left open to allow
heat to enter the area or to supply supplemental heating (in an enclosed, well insulated
small area the heat from a single incandescent light is sufficient in climates such
as Utah). Home improvement stores also sell a variety of thermostatically controlled
heating cables that can be affixed to plumbing fixtures. When fixtures with these
cables are exposed to cold temperatures the cables provide electric heat that prevents
freezing. There are a variety of freeze protection devices on the market to choose
from and/or you may also decide to contact a professional for such home repairs.

Box Elder bugs have emerged already and are breeding. They get into the house and
crawl all over the west facing exterior house wallsand are all over the vegetable
garden beds. How do I erradicate them?

These bugs are very difficult to control. Fortunately, they don't harm people, homes,
or plants. But they can be a terrible nuisance.

One suggested control is to drown them. Line up some plastic trays underneath the
wall where the bugs are congregating, then spray water down the wall so that the bugs
are washed down into the trays of water. Because they don't swim well, most of them
will be trapped and drowned.

To keep them out of your home, seal all cracks and crevices. You can use sticky traps
in windowsills to help catch some.

Please read over our fact sheet for more information . In general, they are very difficult (if not impossible) to
eradicate. Boxelder bugs are considered nuisance pests, but sometimes they can damage
fruit. Mostly they accidentally move into homes for warmth during the winter and that’s
when they really become a bother.

The recent series of storms that walloped southwestern Utah caused flash floods and
impacted many communities in the area, especially St. George. Because of the saturated
ground and above-normal snow packs in some areas of the region, other parts of the
state could be deluged with floods over the next few months.

If you think you could have flooding in your area this spring, do as much as you can
now to reduce the chances of it entering your home. It is important make sure water
coming off hills, roads, etc., be directed away from the house, especially window
wells or doorways to the basement. This can be done with landscaping. Also repair
any openings in the foundation where water might enter through cracks.

Unfortunately, attempts at prevention don’t stop everything, and if you do receive
flooding in your home this spring, consider these tips for cleanup.

Get organized. Set priorities. Remove contaminated mud first. Next scrub with detergent,
then wash with a disinfectant. Thoroughly clean and dry your house before trying to
live in it

Remove water from the basement slowly. If your basement is full or nearly full of
water, pump only 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly,
the pressure outside the walls can be greater than the pressure inside the walls.
That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse.

Remove contaminated mud. Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer
or hose to wash mud from hard surfaces. Start cleaning walls at the bottom or where
damage is worst. Remember to hose out heating ducts, disconnecting the furnace first.
Make sure all gas and electrical lines are turned off before cleaning around water.

Clean and disinfect. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then
disinfect with a solution of ¼ cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product
that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs. Laundry bleaches containing chlorine
should not be used on materials that could be damaged or fade. Disinfect dishes, cooking
utensils and food preparation areas before using them. Thoroughly disinfect areas
where small children play. Don't mix cleaning products. A combination of chemicals
can give off toxic fumes. Be sure to read labels on all cleaning materials.

Dry ceilings and walls. Flood-soaked wallboard should be removed and thrown away.
Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities
to dry wood framing materials. There are three general types of materials used for
insulation in the walls, and each must be treated differently. Polystyrene sheets
might need only to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy, but
may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced
since it holds water for a long time, supports mold growth and can lose its antifungal
and fire retardant abilities.

Prevent mildew growth. Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as
soon as possible. Use a fan or dehumidifier to remove moisture, or open at least two
windows for ventilation. Also use fans inside to circulate air in the house. If mold
and mildew have already developed, use chlorine and water to retard mold growth. Mold
has a musty odor, and if you can smell it, it is growing on wet surfaces. Dry things
as quickly as possible. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash
with disinfectant or chlorine bleach. It is important to work in a well-ventilated
room and wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.

Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater
covered the carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet
was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean carpets and rugs, drape them over a
clothesline outdoors and hose them off. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled
spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons
bleach to 1 gallon water, but realize that bleach and disinfectants may discolor the
carpet. If the carpet is flooded, it is important to get it off the floor. Dry the
floor as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum, fans and dehumidifier. Be sure
the carpet and floor are dried thoroughly before replacing carpet. Padding is nearly
impossible to clean, so it should be replaced.

Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to
reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.
If you have wood subflooring, remove the floor covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet)
so the subflooring can dry thoroughly. It may take several months for all the boards
and subflooring to dry. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air
as possible.

Motors on electronic appliances must be reconditioned or replaced. To clean surfaces,
use a heavy-duty cleaner and hot water, then a bleach solution. Refrigerators, freezers
and ovens with foam insulation and sealed components may have little water damage,
but should be cleaned and disinfected since they hold food. If walls are not sealed,
insulation needs to removed, cleaned, and if necessary, replaced.

Get a cost estimate from a professional for repairing televisions, radios, computers
and similar equipment to determine if they are worth repairing

When using sprayers, wet vacs, vacuum cleaners and other cleaning equipment, use an
extension cord with a ground fault circuit interrupter or install a GFCI in the electrical
circuits in damp environments. Be careful to avoid electrocution.

Hire a professional to replace or recondition electrical wiring and equipment.

Wash mud off valuable items before they dry. Photographs, books and important papers
can be frozen and cleaned later. Store articles in plastic bags and place them in
a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time
to thaw and clean them.

Call your insurance agent. If your insurance covers the damage, your agent will tell
you when an adjuster will contact you.

List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean. You'll need complete records
for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions.

Can you please tell me how much more efficient it is to cook with a crock-pot rather
than using an oven?

A

You would assume it is more efficient. The crock pot web site, if you google it,
came up with the following example. Hope this helps.

Some ovens run at 120volts, some 220, 240 etc... Lets say we're using a stove with
220volts X 10amps = 2200watts in an hour. The oven's heating element is controlled
by the temperature of the oven (which you set), so it's turned on and off to maintain
a desired temperature. The heat is kept in the oven by the insulation. So during one
hour, the heating element is turned on and off a few times. Depending on your oven
and the temperature, the heating element may only be used for a fraction of an hour,
say 10 or 15 minutes. So, really, your energy consumption is only 1/4 X 2200 = 550
watts (maybe more, maybe less).

Crock pots run at 120volts with low amps. If we cook with a crock pot that runs at
120v X 1.5amps = 180 watts (This is about medium heat). If we let the crock pot cook
for 8 hours, you get 180 X 8 = 1440.

So you see, crock pot cooking could actually use twice as much energy as using ovens!
Of course, keep in mind that different pots, with different sizes, amps etc... will
have different results. If you had a small crock pot, you'd be using less energy.

Do you have a list of ingredient substitutions for cooking and baking?

A

It is frustrating to be in the middle of a baking project and find you are missing
a key ingredient. Before making a trek to the grocery store, remember that your cupboards
may still hold options. A recipe substitution can sometimes alter the flavor, color,
texture or volume of the food, but will still result in an acceptable finished product.
The following is a list of ingredient substitutions.

Baking powder, 1 teaspoon. Substitute with 1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 5/8 teaspoon
cream of tartar; or 1/4 teaspoon soda plus 1/2 cup fully soured milk or buttermilk;
or 1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/2 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice used with milk
to make 1/2 cup; or 1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/4 to 1/2 cup molasses. (Note about
molasses in order for carbon dioxide to be released and cause the product to rise,
an acid ingredient must be present to react with the soda. Molasses is acidic enough
that it releases carbon dioxide.)

Hand injuries, muscle strain and overexertion are as common as the snow that falls
this time of year. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Proper use of snow removal
equipment can reduce injuries and keep you safe. Consider these tips.

Snow shoveling is the most common method of snow removal. Lightweight, aluminum shovels
work best, and a long handled, square ended shovel works well to remove ice from concrete
surfaces. Reduce strain on muscles and joints by partially filling the shovel rather
than heaping it full. If you have thick crusts of ice over concrete surfaces, you
may need to use a metal bar to break the ice and/or apply a chemical snow and ice
melt.

The majority of commercial ice and snow melting chemicals are formulated so they are
not harmful to concrete. However, these chemicals stimulate the frequency of the freeze-thaw
cycle and this can damage unsealed mortar, new concrete or concrete surfaces that
are cracked, porous or aggregated. Follow the manufacturer's directions when applying
these chemicals to driveways and walkways.

Powered snow removal equipment is especially helpful, but can inflict serious injury
to people and property if not used properly. Inexperience is a frequent cause of accidents.
Read the operator’s manual and heed instructions for safe operation and prevention
of injuries and accidents. Remember to wear eye protection. Hearing protection should
be worn if engine noise is excessive or the equipment will be operated for long periods
of time.

Check fuel and oil levels, and learn how to quickly stop the snow blower and shut
off the engine. Newer models are equipped with improved safety features and increased
engine horsepower for better snow removal and reduced clogging. Newer models have
levers that must be engaged from the operator station in order for the machine to
function.

Areas where snow will be removed should be cleared of sticks, rocks, water hoses,
tools, toys and other debris. Snow removal equipment can throw snow more than 20 feet,
and solid objects, such as rocks or ice chunks, can travel three times that distance.
Be cautious when operating snow blowers in reverse. Operators may easily slip or trip
and could back over themselves or become pinned.

Snow blower accidents and injuries occur most often when a hand or other object is
placed in the discharge chute. If the discharge unit becomes clogged, turn the engine
off and use a wooden dowel or plastic rod to remove snow. Do not use hands to remove
the blockage. Even with the engine turned off, the discharge unit may spin when clogged
snow becomes dislodged. To prevent clogging, do not overload the equipment. If snow
is heavy, walk slowly with the snow blower, and/or remove a narrow strip of snow with
each pass. Keep the discharge unit turning at high-speed.

When operating, the snow blower’s discharge chute should always be directed away from
people, animals, vehicles and other property that could be damaged by flying debris.
When removing snow from an inclined surface, travel up and down the slope rather than
across the face of the slope. A slope that rises more that three feet with each ten
feet of horizontal travel is too steep for snow removal equipment. Be cautious when
changing directions on a sloped surface. It is easy to lose control of a snow blower
when it is leaning.

Under windy conditions, throw the snow with the wind. The wind will help disperse
the snow and prevent it from settling on cleared areas. When removing snow from a
gravel driveway, set the blades an inch or more above the gravel to prevent it from
being launched through the discharge chute.

Be cautious when refueling. Keep snow blowers and fuel away from flames, sparks or
excessive heat. Store fuel in a ventilated area and allow the engine to cool before
refueling.

Consider age, maturity, and physical ability when permitting older children to operate
snow blowers. Children should not operate snow blowers unless they are closely supervised
and the terrain is free from hazards.

Remember to dress properly when working outdoors. Wear snug fitting clothing in layers
and sturdy shoes that provide traction on icy surfaces. Pay close attention to cold
temperatures and your level of exertion. Do not work to the point of exhaustion, and
remember to take frequent rests indoors.

Now is a good time to go through your closets and put winter items in storage. Keep
the following tips in mind as you store your clothing.

Make sure clothing items are clean before storing. Stains, perfumes, hair care products
or body oils left in the clothing fibers can intensify during storage and can permanently
damage the clothing.

Dirt on the clothing or crumbs or tissue in the pockets can attract insects. Prior
to cleaning the entire garment, turn any pockets wrong side out and use a brush to
remove any debris.

Vacuum the storage area well to remove any crumbs, dust, hair or lint that might attract
insects. Regularly vacuum the rugs where they fit close to the baseboard. Good housekeeping
is critical for preventing or controlling clothes moth damage.

Storage temperature should be moderate--in the 60s or low 70s--and should not be in
an area with excess moisture or strong sunlight. Use closets with tight fitting doors.

Try suspending wall to floor cotton drapes in front of clothing to keep dust and moths
away. Wash the cotton fabric to remove any sizing and do not use perfumed fabric softener
in the final rinse or dryer.

damage. The natural cedar oil evaporates and a fresh treatment of cedar oil should
be applied every two years.

Storing garments in plastic cleaner bags can cause damage to the fibers.

For clothes moth control, a new "bio-repellent" has been developed as an alternative
to mothballs. Besides being toxic, mothballs leave an unpleasant odor in clothing
and can cause fabric to discolor if it comes in contact with the garment. The new
product uses a highly effective formulation of lavandin oil and is available in a
lavender scented sachet that can be placed inside drawers and storage boxes, or hung
in closets without damaging clothing. The lavandin oil is in gel form and turns to
a powder when the sachet needs to be replaced. In an average size storage area one
of the units should protect clothing for one season. Larger closets and those in daily
use may require two or more units. The product should be available in stores in the
insect repellent section. Be sure to read the label prior to use.

Many consumers have experienced the shock of opening the utility bills this winter.
Costs have increased for several reasons. Electric companies are sending power to
more homes than ever, while also working to upgrade failing equipment. In addition,
oil prices soared to record highs in 2005. Add inflation and power-hungry electronics
in the home, and consumers have a near guarantee that utility costs will go up. Consider
these tips for cutting utility consumption.

Turn the thermostat down. For every degree lowered on the thermostat, about 3 percent
will be saved on the heating bill. If you turn the thermostat down 10 degrees when
you are at work and again when you go to bed, for a total of 16 hours, you can save
about 14 percent on heating costs. An easy way to do this is to add a programmable
thermostat to automatically turn the heat up or down at certain times of the day.
These cost between $25 and $75. Wear sweaters or sweatshirts when you are home. Add
an extra blanket to the beds.

Install energy-efficient shower heads and faucet aerators. They reduce the amount
of water released by up to 50 percent with almost no noticeable difference in pressure.
Defrost the freezer twice a year to reduce running costs by 10 percent. Replace air
filters every two months during heating season. The furnace will run more efficiently
and use less energy. Wash clothes in cold water and don’t over-dry clothing. Liquid
detergent works well in cold water. Special cold water detergent can be purchased,
but can be costly. Clean the lint filter in the dryer each time you use it to increase
drying efficiency. Shower, don’t bathe. A bath uses about twice as much hot water
as a 5-minute shower. Don’t leave the faucet running while washing dishes or brushing
teeth. Running water only when necessary saves thousands of gallons of water a year,
as well as the energy to heat it.

Use the dishwasher. Washing and rinsing dishes by hand three times a day uses more
hot water and energy than washing one load a day in an automatic dishwasher. Run your
dishwater only when it is filled to capacity. This will cut the costs of energy, water
and detergent. Always use the shortest washing cycle. Scrape dishes before loading
them in the dishwasher. Use task lighting when working at a desk or workbench and
turn surrounding lights off. Consider using small appliances for cooking rather than
heating the oven. Portable frying pans, electric grills, crock pots, microwave ovens
and toaster ovens are great alternatives. Use glass or ceramic pans when baking in
the oven. You can reduce the oven temperature by about 25 degrees and cook foods just
as quickly. Do not open the oven to preview the food. Each time you open the door,
the oven temperature drops 25-50 degrees. Watch the clock or use a timer instead.
Use fans wisely. In just one hour, a hard-working bathroom or kitchen fan can expel
a house full of warm air. Turn fans off as soon as they’ve done the job. Limit the
use of the traditional fire. Fires actually suck heat from a room. If you have a gas
or electric fireplace, be sure to use the blower to spread the warm air throughout
the room. Close off seldom-used rooms and shut the heater vents in the rooms. Turn
the water heater down. A water heater should be kept around 120 F. This reduces power
usage without a noticeable difference to the user, and constitutes 30 to 40 percent
of your energy bill. A water heater set too high can also cause burns. Keep heating
vents clear. Blocked vents prevent heated air from circulating efficiently. Open curtains
and shades on south-facing windows during the day to allow solar radiation to warm
inside airspace. Close curtains and blinds at night to retard the escape of heat.
Block air leaks. On a windy day, hold a lit incense stick to draft areas such as chimney
flashing, recessed lighting, windows, door frames, ducts, flues and electrical outlets.
Install door sweeps, caulk, weatherstripping and outlet gaskets where cold air is
entering. If you leave a room, turn the light off. If you leave the house, turn the
computer off. These are two of the biggest electricity consumers next to heating and
cooling. A computer burns 100 to 200 watts of power sitting idle. If you leave it
on while asleep or at work, it can cost about $5 a month. Leaving lights on can waste
another $5 to $10 a month.

Use fluorescent lights inside and out. Fluorescent lights produce the same amount
of light as a standard bulb and use only about one-third the power. Insulate pipes.
If you can see pipes in an unfinished basement or under the house, wrap them in insulation.
This will keep the water in the pipes warm, causing you to use less hot water from
the water heater. It also provides warmer water faster to faucets. Create a “warm
room.” Lower heating bills by heating just the portion of the house that you spend
the most time in. Heat the room with a portable electric heater rather than the furnace.
Don’t use the dishwasher’s “heat dry” cycle. This wastes energy. Dishes will air dry
within a few hours. Run your dishwasher at night on air dry. Sign up for budget billing
for your natural gas and electric bills. This allows you to pay the same amount each
month throughout the year, rather than paying high bills in the winter and low bills
in the summer. At the end of 12 months, an assessment is done to ensure that you pay
only for the energy used. Contact your energy provider for information.

Though it may not seem like the best time to clean the garage, now is actually the
perfect time to tidy up the structure that protects your vehicles and countless other
items. There is no distracting yard work this time of year, and a clean, organized
garage is a great way to start the new year.

A garage is indicative of a family’s dynamics and often serves as the catchall for
busy lives. Its primary function should be to provide protection for automobiles.
However, the convenient access, security and ease of concealment it offers make it
an ideal storage space for a variety of other items.

During the warm season months when cars are often parked outside, it is easy to let
miscellaneous items pile up in the garage. Garages often serve as a storage place
for lawn and garden equipment, automotive and power tools, home repair and maintenance
supplies, bicycles, household chemicals, engine fuel and lubricants. Many also include
a freezer or second refrigerator, extra furniture and appliances, sports equipment,
children’s toys, snow removal equipment, trash containers, wheelbarrows and ladders.

Depending on garage size, these items may be organized on shelves and suspended from
the walls or ceiling to provide sufficient floor space for vehicles. Organizing the
garage can be done in stages, which can significantly reduce the time and effort required.
Consider these tips:

The first step is to reduce the number of items stored. Donate appropriate things
to charity, sell items if possible, discard unnecessary materials and return borrowed
items to their owners. If something has not been used in the last few years, consider
getting rid of it. The second step is to relocate items to other storage areas. Where
appropriate, move items to the basement, attic, closet or other areas. For safety
reasons, gasoline powered equipment, petroleum products, flammable gasses, paint,
bulk fertilizer, pesticides and cleaning chemicals should not be stored in the home.
Small quantities of some chemicals can be stored indoors. The next step is to remove
items from the garage floor. When feasible, items should be stored against the walls
or hung from the ceiling. Some exceptions include equipment with wheels/tracks and
an engine, larger recycling bins and trash containers. This step leaves floor space
clear for vehicles. If further organization is needed in the garage, consider remodeling
to accommodate modern storage systems. The remodeling step integrates storage techniques
with components and containers sold at home improvement stores. Storage system components
include shelves and cabinets mounted on walls; hooks and hangers attached to the ceiling
and walls to store ladders, wheeled carts and odd-sized equipment; and ropes and pulleys
to suspend bicycles, canoes and other lightweight items from the ceiling. Remodeling
can be expensive and can require time and effort, but it is a viable option for increasing
garage storage space. Regularly used hand tools can be displayed on a wall over a
workbench with storage drawers underneath. Hand tools can also be stored in tool boxes.
Long handled tools such as rakes and shovels can be hung on walls, placed in tall
cabinets or stored in vertical storage racks. Small tools and similar materials can
be kept in a portable container for ease when transporting.

If the garage has an attic or exposed ceiling joists, this space can be used to store
seasonal decorations and other items that are accessed annually. Cargo nets can be
suspended from the ceiling to store inflatable items, cushions for lawn furniture
and other lightweight materials.

Possibly the most versatile accessories in modern storage systems are plastic storage
containers with lids. These containers are stackable and available in a variety of
sizes. Many commercial storage systems integrate plastic containers with shelves and
mounting brackets. Clear plastic storage containers are especially helpful, and some
storage containers are available with wheels.

Once the garage is organized, maintaining it should become a family affair. Setting
rules will be helpful. Some might include that the parking area must stay open and
that items removed from their new storage places be promptly returned.

For many people, automobiles are second only to the family home in value and should
be protected. In addition, a garage without clutter offers a protected setting for
weekend projects and an organized place where stored items can easily be found.

The average homeowner causes more air pollution from home energy use than from driving
the family car. According to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy,
if every household increased the energy efficiency of its major appliances by 10-30
percent, it would decrease demand by the equivalent of 25 large power plants.

Since the largest amount of home energy is used in the kitchen, it is wise to begin
there to make changes that will reduce energy and save money. Consider these tips.

Lighting. Switch to compact fluorescent bulbs. They use 75 percent less electricity
than incandescent bulbs and last up to10 times as long.

Windows. Make sure all windows are sealed tightly. If new windows are an option, consider
high performance features such as double or triple panes and those with low-e coating.

Appliances. Kitchen appliances account for approximately 30 percent of total household
energy use. Replacing old appliances with more efficient models can make an impact
on overall energy consumption. If this is an option, determine what your family needs
from the appliance, including size, style and features. Check the Energy Guide label.
These are required by the FTC on most new appliances. Consider purchase price and
potential energy savings. Some models are more expensive initially, but will make
up the difference through energy savings in only a few years. Look for the EnergyStar
logo — it means the EPA and U. S. Department of Energy determined the appliance was
significantly more efficient than other models.

Refrigerators. Refrigerators can use between 8 and 18 percent of total household energy.
If your refrigerator was purchased before 1993, it is likely using 30 percent more
electricity than a new model, and 40 percent more than a new EnergyStar model. Models
that are 16-20 cubic feet with the freezer on the bottom or top (rather than side-by-side)
are the most efficient. Extra features such as ice makers and auto defrost make a
model more expensive and less efficient. To make your existing model as efficient
as possible: 1) Place refrigerator away from stove, dishwasher or other heat source.
2) Vacuum the coils on the back twice a year. 3) Check the tightness of the seals
by closing the door on a dollar bill with half hanging out. If it pulls out without
resistance, it may be time to replace the rubber seal. 4) Check refrigerator and freezer
temperatures and adjust settings. 5) If your unit has an anti-sweat or moisture control
switch, turn it on in the summer and off in the winter. 6) If you have a spare refrigerator
for soda and such items, put it on a timer and program it to turn off for several
hours each night.

Dishwashers. Many dishwashers on the market now have energy and water saving features.
As with other kitchen appliances, read the energy label and look for the EnergyStar
logo as a guide. These models use 575 kilowatt hours per year or less. Eighty to ninety
percent of the energy consumed by dishwashers is used to heat the water. Therefore,
reducing the amount of water used and heated is the best way to reduce energy consumed.
A dishwasher more than 10 years old will likely use about 60 percent more energy than
new EnergyStar models. To run your dishwasher most efficiently: 1) Run the dishwasher
only when it is full. 2) Choose the shortest cycle and/or energy saving cycle, or
turn off the heated drying. 3) Rinse dishes with cold water if pre-rinsing is required.
4) In the summer, run the dishwasher in the evening when it is cooler.

Ovens. Microwave ovens use about 50 percent less energy than conventional ovens, making
them a more efficient way to cook. Self-cleaning, conventional ovens not only reduce
elbow grease, they also reduce the energy consumed in cooking because they generally
have tighter seals and better insulation. However, if you use the self-cleaning feature
more than once a month, you'll end up using more energy than you saved.When you clean
the oven, do it right after cooking to take advantage of residual heat. You can save
energy in any oven by not peeking at food while it cooks. Each time you open the door,
the temperature decreases by 25 F. For this reason, consider an oven with a window
in the door. Convection ovens use fans to circulate hot air around food as it cooks.
They cook more quickly and at lower temperatures. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates
convection ovens are 23 percent more efficient than conventional ovens.

Ranges. Solid disk elements and radiant elements under glass stove tops are easier
to clean than conventional electric coils, but they take longer to heat and use more
electricity. Halogen elements and induction elements are more efficient. Stovetop
reflectors that are kept clean reflect heat better and save energy. Gas stoves with
an electric ignition use 30 to 40 percent less gas than those with a continuous pilot
light. A blue flame indicates the unit is running efficiently. A yellow flame means
ports need to be cleaned. With gas stoves, consider a quality ventilation system to
remove any combustion fumes. With gas or electric stove tops, match the size of the
pan to the heating element. More heat will get to the pan and less will be lost to
the surrounding air. A 6-inch pan on an 8-inch burner will waste more than 40 percent
of the energy.

Where does the bread plate go? When do I put the napkin on my lap? When is it appropriate
to use salt and pepper at the table? With holiday meals just around the corner, these
are questions that may concern hosts and guests alike.

Good table manners are a matter of common sense and should reflect the most logical
choices. One of the most important things to remember at the table is to be natural,
without drawing attention to yourself. Consider these dining tips.

Posture. When eating, sit close enough to the table that each bite can be brought
to the mouth without having to lean forward. Sit straight at the table without being
stiff.

Elbows. Elbows should not be placed on the table, but kept close to the side so they
don’t interfere with those sitting next to you. When a hand is not in use, place it
in your lap, or if it is more comfortable, rest your forearm on the edge of the table.

Table settings. An attractive table setting makes the food look appetizing and it
gives the host/hostess an opportunity to express creativity. It also gives guests
the chance to see the effort that has been made in their behalf.

Place settings. Each place setting should consist of the main plate in the center,
with the forks placed on the left (salad fork goes on the outside) and knives on the
right with blade pointed in. Spoons are placed to the right of the knives, and the
water glass is placed at the tip of the knife. A second beverage glass would be placed
to the right of the water glass. The bread and butter plate belongs at the tip of
the forks, and the salad plate goes to the left of the forks and a little above. When
no bread and butter plate is used, the salad plate may go at the tip of the forks.
The napkin is placed directly to the left of the forks and dinner plate, but if the
table is crowded, it may be placed under the forks, directly on the plate or in the
center of the place setting.

Napkins. When seated at the table, wait until the host or hostess places the napkin
on his or her lap or when he or she asks the guests to proceed. When the host or hostess
picks up his or her fork, you may pick up yours and begin to eat. The napkin remains
in your lap until after the meal and should then be placed loosely gathered on the
table next to the plate. If you need to leave the table during the meal, the napkin
should be placed on the chair and then back in your lap after you return to the table.

Utensils. Silverware is placed in order of its use. Always remember to begin with
the silverware on the outside of the place setting and work from the outside in. If
in doubt, watch the hostess or someone else at the table who is confident in using
the utensils. Cut up food as it is eaten, not all at once. When finished eating, place
the used fork and knife on the plate, sharp side of knife facing in and the fork next
to the knife.

Beverages. Wait to sip beverages until your mouth is empty and has been wiped with
a napkin. The only exception is when your mouth has been burned with food — then it
is appropriate to drink with food in the mouth. Do not gulp or guzzle drinks.

Conversation. When talking at the table, there should never be food in your mouth.
Chew with your mouth closed, without talking. Guests should not draw attention to
themselves by making unnecessary noise with their mouth or with silverware.

Seasonings and condiments. Guests should always taste the food before asking for salt
and pepper so they do not offend the cook. When you use the condiments on the table,
place a portion of each condiment desired on the plate beside the food, not directly
on the food itself, i.e., cranberry sauce is placed on the dinner plate, not on the
meat. If there are no condiments on the table, it is not polite to ask for them.

Formal service. Guests are usually served from their left, and plates are cleared
from their left. Drinks are served from the right and cleared from the right.

Informal service. When a serving dish is passed around the table instead of being
served individually, it should be passed counterclockwise. You should take a reasonable
portion and never take more than can be finished.

Reaching. Guests may reach for food that is close to them, as long as they do not
have to stretch for it and do not reach across another guest. If the food is across
the table, ask politely for it to be passed.

Finger food. Some foods may be eaten with the fingers. If you are not sure if it is
acceptable, follow the example of the host or hostess or use the neater and easier
way to eat the food. When finger foods are served, take the food from the serving
dish and place it on the plate before eating it.

Removing food from mouth. If a piece of food must be removed from the mouth, do it
the same way that it was put in and place it on the plate. A pit or small bone should
be removed with fingers. The most important thing to remember when removing food is
to do it with as little show as possible.

Natural table manners take practice, and the best place to practice is at home. Once
good table manners become automatic, you will feel more relaxed and comfortable, and
the conversation and food will be the focus of the meal, not manners.

How can I add some color to my home now that the holiday decor is gone?

A

If your home looks empty and dreary after taking down the holiday decor, consider
an exotic plant to help spruce things up. Many indoor plants are easy to grow and
will lighten up a room with splashes of color.

The Chinese Lantern, which is also called a flowering maple, has a maple-shaped leaf
with a white edge variegation. It produces striking orange blossoms periodically and
prefers a cool room (around 65 degrees) and direct southern light.

The Bloodleaf and Purple Heart plants, both of which have red to purple colored leaves,
enjoy subtle lighting.

The Aluminum plant has silvery foliage and requires less light.

The Snake plant is upright with a yellow variegation on the leaf edges.

Some plants that may require a bit more attention include the Nerve plant, which has
a deep green leaf with red to pink veins; the Watermelon Peperomia, which is gray-green
with unusual color patterns; and the Polka Dot plant, which has pink splotches. They
all need to be kept on the moist side.

The Croton is one of the most colorful indoor plants. The leaves can display shades
of red, yellow, light green, orange and almost black. They need plenty of light and
should not be moved once a permanent location is found.

The Tricolor Dracaena also needs good lighting to keep its colors of green, pink and
white. The upright and palm-like appearance makes it a good choice for a corner.

How can I control the large numbers of insects congregating on the exterior of my
house?

A

On warm autumn and winter days several species of insects can become a severe nuisance
as they congregate on south-facing exterior walls of buildings. In addition to their
large numbers on the outside, they can enter buildings to seek shelter. Of these
nuisance insects, boxelder bugs (a scentless plant bug), are the most numerous. Leaf-footed
bugs and ladybird beetles can also be found seeking warmth and shelter on buildings. Adults
become active on warm days and emerge from hiding places, returning to shelter as
temperatures drop at the end of the day.

Boxelder bugs are about ½ inch long and easy to recognize because of their distinct
coloration: dark gray to black background with red markings on their wings and a red
body underneath. Immature boxelder bugs are smaller and bright red with black legs. Leaf-footed
bugs are larger, 1 to 1 ½ inches long, with a brown body and leaf-shaped “wings” on
their hind lower legs. Leaf-footed bugs can give off an unpleasant odor when handled.

The main methods to reduce insect populations and their nuisance to you and your home
are by cultural practices, exclusion, mechanical removal, and insecticides. Boxelder
bugs primarily live and feed on female boxelder trees which is a species of maple
and to a lesser extent on other plants (other maple, ash, fruit trees, grape, strawberry). They
primarily feed on the developing seeds. Removal of female boxelder trees that produce
the winged seedpods can reduce boxelder bug populations if there are not other nearby
sources of trees and bugs. Along riparian areas, tree removal is unlikely to yield
results because boxelder trees are too numerous. The value of the tree must also
be considered and may not justify anticipated reductions in insect numbers. Insecticides
can be applied to boxelder trees during the summer when the bugs are young, but again
if other sources are nearby, satisfactory results may not be achieved. Carbaryl (Sevin)
and other insecticides registered for ornamental trees can be applied to the trunk
and limbs to kill young boxelder bugs. Leaf-footed bugs feed on a wide range of trees,
shrubs, vines, and some herbaceous plants. Removal of host plants is impractical
for control of leaf-footed bugs.

Exclusion of insects and mechanical removal are effective non-chemical control methods. Caulk
and seal cracks in foundations, and around windows, doors, and utility conduits. Remove
insects with a broom or vacuum in places where they congregate and after they enter
buildings. Wash them from surfaces with a stiff spray of water from a hose-end nozzle
and sweep them up. Applying insecticidal soap or a homemade solution of mild hand
dishwashing soap, such as IvoryÒ, mixed in water (5-10 drops per gallon of water)
can deter the insects. Always test a soap solution on a small area before applying
it to a large area. Soaps can stain certain materials and even etch glass if the
wrong type of soap is used.

There are many insecticides registered in Utah for boxelder bugs and other nuisance
insects. Common active ingredients include carbaryl, cyfluthrin, cypermethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin,
permethrin, and pyrethrins. As with soaps, always test on a small area first to avoid
staining or damaging finished surfaces due to oils or other ingredients in insecticide
formulations. Most insecticides applied to exterior surfaces tend to have short residuals
because they are rapidly degraded in sunlight and weather. Adult insects also tend
to be tolerant of insecticides because of their thick exoskeletons and ability to
disperse rapidly and avoid contact with insecticide sprays.

Generally the most successful management of boxelder bugs and other insects congregating
on exterior surfaces will be achieved by a combination of the above control and exclusion
methods and increasing your tolerance to their presence. The number of days when
high numbers congregate is usually brief and they soon will disperse back to their
native vegetation. Visit the Utah State University Extension Utah Pests web site
for more information on boxelder bugs and other insects: http://utahpests.usu.edu/.

The National Interagency Fire Center predicts near to above normal fire activity for
the 2005 wildfire season, and southwest Utah has had nine fires to date. A campground
and several homes have been evacuated, outbuildings have burned, I-15 has been closed
and summer is still in its early stages.

If you reside within or adjacent to wildlands, be aware that a few hours of light-duty
yard work done now can save your home or cabin from being destroyed in a wildfire.

According to USDA Forest Service Research Physical Scientist Jack Cohen, it’s the
little things that cause homes to burn in a wildland fire. Consider the following
tips to protect your home and property.

Remove debris. Collect and remove dead vegetation such as leaves, needles and sticks
that accumulate within a minimum distance of 30 feet from your home. This will significantly
reduce the ignitability of your home. However, to be effective it must be done on
a regular basis, depending on the type and amount of vegetation surrounding your home.
When you see pine needles and leaves accumulating in the valleys of the roof and in
the corners of the deck, it is time to collect and remove them.

Move firewood, construction materials and other flammable items so they are at least
30 feet away from your home, especially during the summer.

Enclose the eaves of your home with soffits. Screen all vents and other openings.
This will reduce the chances that blowing embers could start a fire in an attic space.
If wasps can get in, so can burning embers.

Be sure propane tanks are located at least 30 feet from any structure and surrounded
with 10 feet of clearance.

Prevent flames from directly hitting your home by appropriately pruning or cutting
highly flammable trees and bushes. Evergreens and scrub oak tend to be highly flammable,
while aspen and broad-leafed ornamentals tend to be less flammable.

Make sure that emergency personnel can easily locate and identify your home. Be sure
house numbers are clearly marked and unblocked.

Take the time to protect your home. Homes that do not meet these minimum specifications
are less likely to receive full consideration by firefighters since they pose an unnecessary
risk to personnel and equipment.

For a list of firewise plants for Utah landscapes or other wildland fire education
materials, contact USU Extension Forestry at 435-797-0560, or visit extension.usu.edu/forestry.

The history of timber theft in the United States goes back at least as far as the
classic feud between the Hatfields and the McCoys, which one researcher found to be
the original dispute between the two families. But it is still a common problem. Here
are several steps you can take to protect yourself from timber trespass.

Know your property boundaries:

The best alternative is to hire a qualified and licensed surveyor with the skills
to locate and mark your boundary corners and lines.

A second alternative is to obtain the assistance of a professional forester. It is
important to understand that foresters typically use handheld compasses, as opposed
to the highly technical equipment of a surveyor, and are not qualified to monument
property lines and corners. But they may be able to help you locate your approximate
boundary locations and take steps to minimize conflicts with adjacent forest land
owners.

Another alternative is to do it yourself. If you are familiar with using a map and
a compass, this may be a good choice for estimating property boundary locations, but
it is most helpful if the corners have already been surveyed and marked.

Another alternative (which is not necessarily recommended) is to do what one couple
from Idaho did: from previously surveyed property corners of their heavily-wooded
10-acre parcel, the husband and wife each started at opposite ends of the unmarked
property line. By loudly banging together pots and pans while listening for each other
and marking the way towards each other, they put a boundary line that later proved
to be accurate within 20 feet!

Clearly mark the boundaries:

The best protection is making your property lines clearly visible. This can be done
by hanging brightly colored pieces of flagging within eyesight of each other along
the line. These lines should be inspected annually to ensure that no trespass has
occurred. Absentee owners might consider contracting a forestry consultant to make
annual boundary line inspections. Also consider posting your property boundaries with
appropriate signs.

When trespass occurs:

Be certain of where the line is and that trespass did, in fact, occur.

If the trespass is in progress, be courteous but firm, confront the violators and
get as much information as possible about who they are working for, where the timber
is being shipped, and whose land they think they are operating on. If personal contact
does not persuade them to leave your property, call your local sheriff immediately.

If timber was removed from your property you are entitled to the value of the wood
that was removed, and in some cases double or even triple the value. This is often
determined by a stump cruise, where a professional forester will count, measure, and
record the tree species of each stump found within the trespass area and develop a
value estimate of the wood removed.

When you harvest timber:

The best alternative is to be able to harvest up to an existing, well-marked line
that was located by a professional surveyor, although most logging-unit boundaries
are less well defined. In the absence of a survey line, set up a “cutting line agreement,”
preferably in writing, with the adjoining property owner.

Contact the adjacent owner and explain the methods used to locate the line, who located
the line, and offer to walk the line with the owner to ensure agreement of the line
placement.

Many of Utah’s smaller communities and rural developments are built in forests, woodlands
and rangelands that have not seen fire in more than one hundred years. The logical
interpretation of this lack of fire is that the surrounding countryside is unlikely
to burn. As the grass, brush, and trees continue to grow, however, fuels build up,
and so does the corresponding fire danger, as experienced in Utah this summer.

Having wildland fires is not a choice that anyone gets to make. Wildland fires can
and will continue to burn, and in some cases they will take homes with them. Fire
plays a vital role in the wildlands of Utah. Even if we could physically and economically
remove fire from our landscape we probably wouldn’t want to, because fire can do good
things for Utah’s forests and rangelands. We can choose to make our homes more resistant
to wildfire. Here are some specific tips to help your house withstand an inevitable
fire event:

Remove dead leaves, pine needles, and sticks that fall on or near your house to reduce
the ignitability of your home. Remove these on a regular basis, depending on the type
and amount of vegetation, within a minimum distance of 30 feet from your home.

Move firewood, construction materials and other flammables at least 30 feet away from
your home, especially during the summer.

Enclose the eaves of your home with soffits and screen all vents and other openings.
This will keep out the blowing embers that can start fires in your attic space.

Prevent flames from directly hitting your home by appropriately pruning or cutting
highly flammable trees and bushes. Note that evergreen and scrub oak tend to be highly
flammable, while aspen and broad-leafed ornamentals tend to be less flammable.

Widely spaced trees and shrubs are a compromise between the Sahara Desert look and
a pyromaniac’s paradise.

If you own a big piece of manicured property, buffer it from adjacent wildlands by
maintaining a fuel break of lowgrowing plants 30 to 70 feet out from buildings.

Don’t dump litter on the edge of your property or in adjacent woodlands. It looks
bad, it’s a fire hazard and, anyway, that’s why there are local landfills.

If you want firefighters to do their job, landscape your property so their equipment
can reach it. Fences, trees and retaining walls located in the wrong place can let
in the fire and keep out the fire department.

In recent weeks, the reported number of rattlesnake encounters throughout Utah has
increased. In addition to having snakes show up in yards, county Extension offices
have reported calls from concerned homeowners about snakes appearing in houses.

The increased visibility of rattlesnakes can be attributed to several factors. In
some cases, the snakes' traditional habitats have been disturbed. These disturbances
include housing developments, drought and fire. Loss of habitat means loss of prey.
Snakes' movements may increase as they search for suitable habitats and prey.

In some cases, human dwellings on the foothill ranges can provide rattlesnakes with
suitable habitat alternatives. Dense shrubs, wood piles, debris and man-made structures
not only afford snakes good cover and concealment, but a readily available prey source
of mice, ground squirrels and prairie dogs.

There are no repellents or toxins registered to control snakes. All snakes, including
rattlesnakes, are protected by state law. The best method of snake proofing your home
is to make the habitat unattractive to snakes. Consider these tips.

Keep lawns mowed and weeds and other vegetation trimmed.

Remove potential snake and prey hiding places such as wood piles, rock piles and debris.
If you have a mouse problem and live in areas inhabited by rattlesnakes, chances are
high that you will also have a snake problem.

Seal foundation cracks with caulk or concrete mortar. Pay special attention to areas
where pipes or wires enter buildings. This will prevent snakes from entering in search
of food and shelter.

Contact your local Utah Division of Wildlife Resources conservation officer if snakes
frequent your area. They can assist youn in removing the reptiles.

Utah is home to 31 species of snakes. Of those 31 species, only seven are venomous.
Therefore, if you see a snake, the chances of it being venomous are not extremely
high. However, if you live, work or play in areas of Utah inhabited by venomous snakes,
you should exercise caution.

How can we promote peace in our home when there is not peace around us?

A

There are several things a family can do to make home a place of peace, even in a
violent and uncertain world. The lessons children learn from family and other trusted
adults in the community will have a lasting impact on them. Consider the following
points.

Avoid fostering hate and prejudice. When confronted with terrible acts of aggression
in our community and world, it is easy to develop fear, suspicion and hatred for a
person or group of people. Teach children to separate the person from the behavior;
to condemn an action without condemning or hating a person. It is especially important
for parents to overcome prejudices and fears. Children who learn prejudice from parents
are likely to carry those feelings throughout their lives.

Decrease the violence in your child's world. Video games, the Internet, movies and
popular music all have the potential to influence youth. Parents can limit both the
amount and the kind of media messages that come into their home. Extended exposure
to news coverage showing violence should also be limited.

Treat children with respect and teach them to respect others. There are opportunities
every day in homes, churches, neighborhoods and schools for concerned adults to teach
the values of respect for the rights of others, respect for self and personal responsibility
for actions. Speak respectfully to children. Show respect by taking time to listen
to them and by taking their ideas seriously. Talk about how your values have guided
your actions in specific personal situations. Teach kindness. Children aren't born
knowing how to get along with others, but research has shown that even infants have
a natural sense of empathy or concern for others. Children learn through countless
experiences in the home, school, church and other settings to develop that inborn
characteristic into kindness or unkindness. In general, if children are treated with
kindness, they will treat others with kindness. Obviously children will encounter
unkindness from other children, adults and even from people in their own home. But
if adults treat youth with kindness, this will help youth treat others that way. Discipline
without violence. All children sometimes misbehave and all parents get frustrated
and angry at times. How we deal with these situations sends a message about dealing
with anger that is far more powerful than what we say. Hitting, yelling or using other
coercive methods will likely teach children to deal with problems in these ways.

Be a positive role model. As parents, grandparents, teachers and others who care about
youth, we need to remember to live our lives as if someone is watching us. Someone
is. Our youth are constantly watching our example, including how we deal with frustration,
anger and conflict. By your example, help children learn to disagree without being
disagreeable. Help them learn to express their ideas without being hostile. Help them
look for things they share in common with others, not the differences. The next time
you consider acting violently, think about the lesson you are teaching and respond
the way you hope your children will respond when they become adults. Chances are high
that they will act the way they were taught at home.

House mice are considered one of the most troublesome and economically important rodents
in North America. Originally a native of Asia, they arrived in North America with
early settlers. They are very adaptable and frequently live in close association with
humans. They are probably the most common wildlife species in towns and cities.

With the onset of cold weather, mice migrate to structures as they search for food
and shelter. They will eat a wide range of food, but prefer foods high in fat and
sugar. Some favorites include chocolate, bacon, butter and nuts. Most water requirements
are filled by the food they eat.

Because they are most active at night, mice can roam undetected throughout a household.
If you see them during the daytime, this could indicate you have several mice in the
house. Mice have a high reproductive rate. Within a matter of months, a pair of mice
can produce several litters. With abundant food, each litter can have 10-12 young.
These litters can then begin producing mice within two months of birth.

In addition to nibbling on food, mice can nibble and cause structural damage. They
also regularly urinate and defecate. The presence of droppings and the musky smell
of urine coming from cupboards or drawers is also an indicator that you have mice
in the house.

To prevent mice from turning your house into their house, consider these tips.

The best control method is to prevent them from getting in. To exclude mice from structures,
seal all holes and openings that are larger than one-fourth inch. Use heavy materials
such as concrete mortar, sheet metal or heavy gauge hardware cloth. Also, be aware
of open doors to garages, houses, barns or other structures. These are open invitations
to mice. Make food in the house as inaccessible as possible. Store bulk foods in rodent-proof
containers. Make sure spilled food items and crumbs are cleaned up. A leftover cookie
behind the couch cushion can feed a mouse for more than a week. In most cases, mice
can be easily caught using glue or wooden snap traps. Because mice have poor eyesight
but excellent senses of touch and smell, they tend to travel close to walls and other
objects. Thus, traps should be set close to walls where mouse activity is seen. For
effective control, set at least six or more traps in the house. To increase effectiveness,
use small amounts of fresh bait. Peanut butter and chocolate work well as bait. Do
not use cheese since it tends to go rancid quickly, thus losing its attractiveness
as a bait. Also, you may want to bait the traps without setting them for a day or
so. When you notice the bait has been taken, set the trap. Because mice can carry
diseases, it is important to remove them from the house as quickly as possible. They
should be bagged and disposed of in an outside garbage container or buried.

Do not use rodenticides (poisons) to control mice in homes. Mice that feed on poison
baits may die in the home. As they start to decay, the resulting odor may cause further
problems. Devices that repel mice using ultrasonic or electromagnetic waves are advertised
widely this time of year; however, there is no scientific evidence to support manufacturer
claims that these devices work. For more information, contact you local county Extension
office for a copy of the Extension Bulletin “Mice” or visit the USU Extension Web
site at http://www.extension.usu.

Winter has hit with a vengeance this year. It is important to bundle up and be prepared
for the cold weather. Your pipes are no different.

When unprotected waterlines are subjected to freezing temperatures for several hours,
the water also freezes. As water freezes, it expands and can cause pipes to crack
or split. Later, if the waterline has pressure when it thaws, a homeowner will have
a water leak that can cause substantial damage.

To understand the damage that can be caused from a broken waterline, imagine you have
placed a plug in the kitchen sink drain, turned the faucet on high, and as water begins
to run to the floor, you leave home for the day. This is similar to what will happen
if a frozen water pipe cracks, thaws and sprays water inside your home while you are
asleep or away. If the leak is inside a wall, below the floor or above the ceiling,
it can be extremely difficult to get at, as well as expensive to repair. Consider
these tips to protect your pipes.

Explore various insulation options. Waterlines located in areas where temperatures
commonly drop below freezing should be protected. In many cases, unprotected pipes,
fittings and other plumbing equipment can be enclosed in pre-formed insulation sleeves.
These sleeves resemble tubes and are available in varying diameters. Plumbing insulation
is also available in formed shapes that fit snugly around plumbing fixtures. The insulation
slips onto pipes and fixtures through slits that are cut the length of the sleeve
or shape. Another insulating option is strips of foil-faced fiberglass. These are
wrapped around pipes and fixtures and secured in place with tape or wire.

Cover pipes properly. For plumbing insulation to work properly, it must completely
cover the pipes, fittings and fixtures that are exposed to cold temperatures. Insulation
should fit snugly around the plumbing, and all insulation joints must fit tightly
and be taped securely. Before installing insulation, make sure there are no water
leaks that will saturate and render the insulation ineffective. Remember that insulation
will not protect pipes from prolonged freezing temperatures unless there is some source
of heat and/or periodic water flow.

Prepare waterlines if you leave your home unattended during the winter. It is best
to turn off the water, shut down the water heater and drain water from the plumbing
system. If it is possible, leave the furnace on and the thermostat set near 50 degrees.
This will protect your home and belongings from harsh winter temperatures, and if
a water pipe does break, the damage will be minimal. If you are going away for only
a few days, have someone stay in the house if possible. This will eliminate the shutdown
and startup procedures.

Be cautious when thawing frozen waterlines. If your pipes freeze, a plumber may be
your best contact. If you opt to do it yourself, shut off the main supply line first.
Then open the faucet in the frozen line. If the waterline or faucet is frozen, begin
thawing at the faucet. Gradually raise the temperature of the pipe so the ice will
melt. When frozen plumbing is heated gradually, the trapped water will not boil and
rubber or plastic faucet parts will not melt. Waterlines may be thawed using a space
heater, heat lamp, heat tape, hairdryer or towels soaked in hot water wrapped around
the pipes. Be cautious when using electrical appliances in wet locations. To avoid
burns, do not use boiling water to thaw pipes. Also, do not use an open flame to thaw
frozen waterlines, due to the fire hazard. If there is a chance a frozen water pipe
will leak when it thaws, open other faucets in the house to drain water from the plumbing
system. If a hot waterline or a main waterline serving the home freezes, it is often
necessary to turn the water heater off. Keep buckets or other containers nearby to
collect water when thawing frozen pipes.

Don't count on the running water technique. During cold temperatures, homeowners sometimes
turn a faucet on and leave the water running to prevent the waterline from freezing.
Although this technique will work, it wastes water and should only be done when other,
more permanent solutions can't be used. Also remember that hot waterlines will freeze
and seldom is hot water left running.

Teach adults and older children where the main water shutoff is located and how to
shut the water off. Being able to do this in the event of a water leak can greatly
reduce the damage to your home.

For many, warm weather signals the time for spring cleaning, both inside and out.
Inside cleaning often includes organizing winter’s accumulation of equipment and tools,
which may also house overwintering insects, spiders and rodents.

If we share a home or out building with rodents, there is also the possibility of
exposure to hantavirus. A recent alert by USU Extension Veterinarian Clell Bagley
warned that states surrounding Utah have recently reported human hantavirus infections,
occurring earlier this year than expected. Cases of hantavirus occur primarily in
the spring and early summer – which coincides with activities such as spring cleaning
garages and sheds, or opening summer homes where mice may have taken up residence
for the winter.

Hantavirus infection is usually spread by inhaling the virus, which is in droppings,
urine and saliva of infected rodents. Although uncommon, the virus can also be passed
to humans through a rodent bite. The common deer mouse is generally the vector of
the disease in the western United States. Deer mice are about 2-3 inches in length,
with a tail equally as long. They come in a variety of colors from gray to reddish
brown with a white underbelly and a tail with sharply defined white sides.

Humans contract the disease when they breathe air permeated with the virus. The danger
occurs when breathing contaminated dust while working in or cleaning a problem area.
There is a greater potential for problems from hantavirus during wet years, since
increased vegetation supports a larger rodent population. The best strategy for preventing
hantavirus infection is to control rodents in and around the home. Consider these
tips.

Begin by sealing holes inside and outside to prevent entry. Check for gaps or holes
the size of a pencil or larger. Keep grass and shrubs away from the foundation of
the house to discourage rodents from nesting. Potential entryways are around windows
and doors and electrical, plumbing and gas lines. Reduce rodent populations around
the home by trapping. Choose an appropriate snap trap. Follow instructions printed
on the package before setting the trap using a small amount of peanut butter (about
the size of a pea). Position the end of the trap next to the wall so it forms a “T”
with the wall. Place traps in outbuildings and areas that may shelter rodents. Spray
trapped mice with disinfectant and place in a double plastic bag for disposal. Predators
such as non-poisonous snakes, owls and hawks may also help reduce the number of rodents
in an area.

Take precautions before and while cleaning rodent-infested spaces. Open doors and
windows for cross ventilation and leave the area for at least 30 minutes. When cleaning,
do not stir up dust by sweeping or vacuuming droppings or nesting materials. Wear
rubber, latex, vinyl or nitrile gloves. For severely contaminated areas, obtain and
use a respirator during the cleaning process. Spray urine and droppings with a disinfectant
or a mixture of bleach and water, allowing it to soak for 5 minutes. Use a paper towel
to pick up droppings and place in a plastic bag. Steam clean or shampoo upholstered
furniture and carpets. Wash bedding and clothing in hot water and wash gloved hands
with soap and water or spray a disinfectant or bleach solution on gloves before removing
them.

Preparedness

Q

Do you have information on what to store in a disaster supply kit?

A

We have recently seen that disasters can strike anywhere, at any time of the year,
swiftly and without warning. Most people don't think of a disaster until it is too
late; then they suddenly realize how unprepared they are. Local officials can be overwhelmed,
and emergency response personnel may not be able to reach those who need help right
away. Those who are prepared can reduce the fear, confusion and losses that come with
disaster. They can be ready to evacuate their homes, know what to expect in public
shelters and know how to provide basic first aid. One of the first steps toward preparedness
is the creation of a family disaster supply kit. This will help families get through
the first days after a disaster. The development of a kit will make a stay in a public
shelter more comfortable, should it become necessary. Kits should be stored in a convenient
place known to all family members, and items should be stored in airtight bags or
containers. The kit should be replenished twice a year and should include six basic
items:

Water. Store in clean plastic containers. Recycled plastic soda bottles with tight
fitting screw-on caps work well. Be sure they are thoroughly washed and rinsed. Store
1 gallon per day per family member (2 quarts for drinking, 2 quarts for food preparation/sanitation).
Children, nursing mothers and those who are ill will need more. A three-day supply
of water should be stored for every family member.

Food. Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable foods. Select foods that
require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or no water. If you must
heat food, pack a few cans of Sterno. These fuel canisters burn for approximately
two hours for a can size of 3-3/8 inch diameter. Make sure you rotate the stored foods
into your regular diet to keep the supply fresh. Include the following items in your
kit: ready-to-eat canned meats; fruits and vegetables; canned juices, milk and soup
(if powdered); extra water for cooking; staples such as sugar, salt and pepper; high
energy foods such as peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars and trail mix; vitamins,
infant food and food for special diets; comfort/stress foods such as cookies, hard
candy, instant coffee and tea bags. Depending on your diet, you may want additional
items.

First aid kit. Assemble a first aid kit for the home and one for each vehicle. An
approved American Red Cross kit may be purchased, or a kit may be assembled with the
following items: sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes, 2-inch and 4-inch sterile
gauze pads (four to six of each), hypoallergenic adhesive tape, triangular bandages
(three), 2-inch and 3-inch sterile roller bandages (three rolls each), scissors, tweezers,
needles, moistened towelettes, antiseptic, a thermometer, tongue depressors (two),
sunscreen, a tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant, assorted sizes of safety
pins, cleansing agent/soap, latex gloves (two pairs), non-prescription drugs, aspirin
or non-aspirin pain reliever, anti-diarrhea medication, antacids, syrup of Ipecac
(use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison Control Center), laxatives and activated
charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center).

Clothing and bedding. Your disaster supply kit should include at least one complete
change of clothing and footwear per person. Items to include are: sturdy shoes or
work boots, rain gear, blankets or sleeping bags, hat and gloves, thermal underwear
and sunglasses.

Special Items. Family members often have special needs, and you may want to include
additional items in your kit. For babies: formula, diapers, bottles, powdered milk
and medications. For adults: heart and high blood pressure medication, insulin, prescription
drugs, denture needs, contact lenses and supplies and an extra pair of eye glasses.
Entertainment: games and books. Important family documents (keep these in a waterproof,
portable container): wills, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds,
passports, social security cards, immunization records, bank account numbers, credit
card account numbers and companies, inventory of valuable goods, important telephone
numbers and family records (birth, marriage, death certificates). Also include extra
sets of home and car keys and a cell phone. Next week’s column: A 4-step family preparedness
plan.

One of the first steps toward personal emergency preparedness is the creation of a
family disaster supply kit. The next step is to develop a family preparedness plan.
A plan can help family members be aware and well versed in what to do in the event
of an emergency. This is important since essential services may be cut off, and local
disaster relief and government responders may not be able to reach you immediately
following an emergency. Knowing what to do to protect yourself and your household
is essential. Consider these steps to develop a plan.

Do your homework. To find out which disasters could happen in your area, contact your
local emergency management or civil defense office and the American Red Cross. Learn
how these disasters might affect your family and request information on how to prepare
and respond to each potential disaster. Learn about your community's warning signals,
what they sound like, what they mean and what actions you should take when they are
activated. Learn about local, state or federal assistance plans. Find out about the
emergency response plan for your workplace, your children's school or day-care center
and other places your family frequents. Develop a list of important telephone numbers
(doctor, work, school, relatives) and keep the list in a visible location in your
home. Ask about animal care. Pets may not be allowed inside shelters because of health
regulations.

Create a family disaster plan. Discuss the need to prepare for disaster with your
family. Explain the danger of fire, severe weather (tornadoes, hurricanes) and floods
to children. Develop a plan to work together as a team and share responsibilities
with family members. Discuss the types of disasters that are most likely to occur
and how to respond. Establish meeting places inside and outside your home, as well
as outside the neighborhood. Make sure everyone knows when and how to contact each
other if separated. Decide on the best escape routes from your home. Identify two
ways out of each room. Make a plan for pet care. Establish an out-of-town family contact (friend or relative).
Call this person after the disaster to let him or her know where you are and if you
are okay. Make sure everyone knows the contact's phone number. Learn what to do if
you are advised to evacuate.

Make a checklist of duties that need to be performed, and update as it becomes necessary.
Establish an out-of-town family contact (friend or relative). Call this person after
the disaster to let him or her know where you are and if you are okay. Make sure everyone
knows the contact's phone number. Learn what to do if you are advised to evacuate.
Post emergency telephone numbers by phones (fire, police, ambulance, etc.). Teach
children how and when to call 911 or your local EMS number for help. Show each family
member how to turn off water, gas and electricity at the main valves or switches. Teach each family member how to use a fire extinguisher (ABC type) and keep it in
a central location. Check it each year. Install smoke detectors on each level of your
home, especially near bedrooms. Stock emergency supplies and assemble a disaster supply
kit. Learn basic first aid. At the very least, each family member should know CPR,
how to help someone who is choking and first aid for severe bleeding and shock. The
Red Cross offers basic training for this. Identify safe places in your home to go for each type of disaster. Check to be sure
you have adequate insurance coverage for disasters that could happen in your area.

Practice and maintain your plan. Test children's knowledge of the plan every six months
so they remember what to do. Conduct fire and emergency evacuation drills. Replace
stored water and food every six months. Test your smoke detectors monthly and change
the batteries once a year. In conjunction with a family preparedness plan, working
with neighbors can also save lives and property. Meet with neighbors to plan how the
neighborhood could work together after a disaster until help arrives. Members of a
neighborhood organization, such as a homeowner’s association or crime watch group,
can introduce disaster preparedness as a neighborhood activity. Know your neighbors'
special skills (medical, technical) and consider how to help neighbors who have special
needs, such as disabled and elderly persons. Make plans for child care in case parents
can't get home. This information can assist you in protecting yourself and your family
in case of a disaster. It is wise to have an emergency plan before the disaster strikes.

Is canning on a ceramic top stove recommended? I just waited one hour for my steam
caner to reach a boil sufficient to start timing my peaches. I know you don't recommend
steam caners but I've used them for 8 years (on electric and gas stoves) and had no
problems. I'm concerned since it took so long to reach a boil that my peaches will
be over processed. My stove has worked fine with all other tasks I've done in the
past 7 months..this is the first time I've tried to bottle fruit with it. I would
love to hear what you think.

A

Most manufacturers do not recommend using a ceramic cook top for canning. The size
and weight of the pan and extended cooking times can damage the cook top – and may
void the warranty if the manufacturer advises against it. Please double check your
use and care book or call the 800 number for the manufacturer for their specific recommendations.
The hour time to come up to temperature will result in an over processed product.

When severe flooding hit Washington County this January, five bridges were washed
out. The town of Gunlock was isolated and the water supply was severed. One prepared
resident stored 50 gallons of water prior to the flooding. This sustained him and
his neighbors for several days until emergency crews could restore the bridges and
the town’s water supply.

With the threat of flooding still in the forecast for many areas in Utah, consider
these recommendations for water storage:

Store at least one gallon of water per person per day for three days. If you have
pets, add more to that amount. Suggested containers for storing water include 2-liter
soda pop bottles, plastic juice containers, glass canning jars and commercial containers
made especially for storing water.

Wash the container in warm soapy water, then rinse to remove all traces of food residue.
Food residue can support illness-causing microorganisms that can grow during water
storage.

Municipal tap water stored without pretreatment can contain potentially dangerous
bacteria. These bacteria can cause illness in people with lower immunities, including
the very young, the very old and the sick. Therefore, all stored water should be treated
to kill these potentially dangerous microorganisms.

To store water in glass canning jars, fill the jars with clean water, leaving ½ inch
headspace. Attach rings and new metal lids. Fill boiling water canner half full of
water, and heat to approximately 140 F. Place water jars in canner. Heat to boiling,
then continue boiling for 20 minutes. Remove jars from the canner and allow to cool.
Remove metal bands after metal lids have “popped,” indicating a vacuum seal. Canned
water may have a white mineral precipitate or ring on the surface. This is normal
and expected. Do not store all of your water in glass since it may break.

For water storage in plastic or stainless steel containers, a chlorine treatment is
recommended. Clean the containers and lids in warm soapy water and rinse. Fill with
clean water and add 1/8 teaspoon (8 drops) liquid bleach per gallon of water if using
a municipal water supply. Attach cap and shake well. Place water in storage.

Bottled water is a quick and convenient method of storing water. However, bottled
water in most states is only required to meet the same standards as municipal tap
water. This means that dangerous microorganisms can also grow when commercially bottled
water is stored. Bottled water labeled “sterile” or “distilled” is treated to remove
microorganisms and is the preferred commercial bottled water for storage.

For emergency sources of water, you can use collected rainwater, snow, water from
streams, rivers, ponds, lakes or springs. Do not use water that has floating material,
flood water, toilet water or saltwater. The best method to treat outside water is
to boil it for five minutes. If a heat source is not available, bleach can be used.
Add ¼ teaspoon (16 drops) liquid bleach per gallon. Allow the water to stand for 30
minutes before drinking. If water is cloudy, allow it to settle and decant the clear
water before disinfecting with bleach.

Water can be obtained from some stored foods and beverages. Hot water tanks, pipes,
ice cubes or water softeners also contain clean water. However, since the water supply
may have become contaminated during an emergency situation, it is best to disinfect
the water by adding ¼ teaspoon of liquid bleach per gallon. Allow the water to sit
for 30 minutes before drinking. Water beds, toilet tank reserves and pools are not
good sources of drinking water since they may contain hazardous chemicals.

Orchards

Q

A large branch has died on my apple tree. What could have killed it?

A

More than likely a canker killed the branch on your tree. Cankers are caused by fungi,
and the most common species on fruit and ornamental trees in Utah belong to the genus Cytospora. Cytospora will attack a number of ornamental and fruit trees including peach, cherry,
apricot, apple, poplar, willow, birch, and aspen. Cytospora, and most canker-causing
fungi, enters the wood through wounds as small as. Once the pathogen has established
itself in the wood, there is no way to remove it. It will grow slowly over a period
of several months, so that once you notice it, the best management option is to remove
the diseased limb.

Areas affected by cankers will have sunken and darker, discolored bark. If you scrape
the bark away, the wood underneath will be Prune out the affected limb at least
6-inches below the canker. Disinfect your pruners between each cut with a mixture
of bleach and water.

An ornamental cherry tree that has been planted for 3 years suddenly dropped all of
it's leaves. Leaves were green one day; gone the next. A neighbor verified some of
the branches are dead (using a scratch test); others are still green. Tree has been
watered by sprinkler, also deep watered with slow hose twice during the summer. The
base of the tree does not seem to have any borer damage. Tree is in full sun. Any
ideas?

A

Regarding your question about your ornamental cherry dropping leaves suddenly; with
out seeing the tree or knowing more about how much water your sprinklers are supplying
I can only venture a guess. It is a distinct possibility that the tree may be getting
too much water from the sprinkling system. Cherry trees especially don’t like to
have “wet feet”. And in heavy clay soils (which are typical) the water tends to hang
around for extended periods of time. A good indication of whether this is the issue,
dig down next to the tree and observe the soil conditions. If it is sticky and mucky
you know it is too much water. You may also get a musty smell indicating the presence
of rotting organisms. Once the roots rot away the tree has no way of getting water
up to the leaves, this can cause the tree to drop the leaves. Another thing to look
for are circling roots that can “choke” the tree and or the tree being buried too
deep. When a tree is planted too deep, the soil around the trunk will rot the conductive
tissues away which will also prevent the conductive tissues from supplying water to
the leaves.

Apricots and peaches--what causes the reddish or purple-brown spots on new leaves,
buds, shoots and fruit?

A

It is called Coryneum Blight or "shot hole" disease. It is a fungus that infests
during cool, wet springs. It first forms dark spots with brown centers on the leaves.
These centers eventually fall out, leaving a "shot-hole" appearance. The fruit has
rough, corky blemishes with a red ring around the spot. Control includes: keeping
leaves and fruit dry from sprinkler spray, proper pruning, maintaining good tree vigor
and a fall clean up of debris around the base of the tree. A fungicide maybe applied
in the fall after all the leaves have fallen, again in the spring at pink bud stage,
full bloom and when leaves begin to appear.Reference: “Coryneum Blight of Stone Fruits”, athttp://extension.usu.edu/plantpath/fruit_diseases/fd_coryneum_blight.htm

Can GF-120 be used by home gardeners to control Cherry fruit fly? How should it be
applied?

A

There is a product GF-120 that is listed in our Home Orchard Pest Management Guide.
It is a spinosad bait type of product. The PNW Insect Management Handbook suggests
applying this product every 7 days at a rate of 1 gal. per acre with a D2 nozzle (without
a core). This would be about the same as 7.7t sp per gal. The reentry interval is
4 hours. The pre-harvest interval is zero days.

Can you plant ONE apple tree and get fruit? Everyone says you have to plant two different
varieties, but I only have room for one tree.

A

It's true that most apple varieties need to cross-pollinate for good fruit set. There
are a few cultivars that are self-fruitful. If the label or catalog description doesn't
mention that the tree is self-fruitful or self-pollinating, plant another cultivar
to be sure you have good fruit set.

You can find a chart that lists several apple varieties and which other varieties
they will successfully cross-pollinate with at:

Most tree fruit catalogs suggest pollinator varieties or show a table with compatible
pollinator varieties listed.

If you have room for only one tree, you could buy an apple tree that has a different
variety grafted onto it for pollination. Crabapple trees may suffice if they are close
enough. Or you can find a friend with a pollinator cultivar blooming at the same time
as your apple tree, cut out a branch, and hang it in your tree in a container of water
(to keep the flowers fresh longer). If bees are active that day, this may provide
enough different pollen for good fruit set.

Can you please give me an idea of when I need to spray my fruit trees (I have one
each of nectarine, peach, apricot, apple and cherry).Can you let me know when, based
on the weather in Cache county? What is the name of the best spray to use?

A

Unfortunately there is not a magic spray that can be sprayed on all fruit trees, with
the exception of dormant oil. This should be sprayed within the next couple of weeks
to help control aphids, scale, and other pest and some diseases. Do not apply it
once trees have leafed out or you have had problems with shothole fungus (Coryneum
Blight) that also needs to be treated with an appropriate fungicide. Captan is labeled
for this. The following hyperlink will lead to a Website that provides info on when
to spray or trap insect pests https://pestadvisories.usu.edu/. You may subscribe to the Website for regular updates on current insect and disease sightings and outbreak predictions, and highlights upcoming
concerns for tree fruit growers. A traditional pesticide good for controlling coddling moth on apples is Sevin (carbaryl).
For trees such as cherries and peaches Malathion can be used if needed. Consider
using alternatives more sustainable to these including traps and baits. The Utah
plant pest diagnostic lab has more specific info on this http://utahpests.usu.edu/uppdl/.

If you see oozing holes at the base of your peach tree including the surface roots,
you probably have peachtree (crown) borers. They attack about the first of July each
year, and once the borers are inside the tree there is no control. Recommendation: Spray the lower trunk and exposed root system in early July and again
the first week in August with an approved insecticide. Follow label instructions.
Organic controls include beneficial nematodes.

If you want worm-free apples and pears this fall, you should act now to protect them
from the codling moth, a major apple and pear pest. Using insecticide sprays is probably
the easier method of preventing worms from getting into your fruit. There are also
a number of other preventable steps you can take to keep worm numbers down.

Pick up and destroy any fruit that drops prematurely from trees in June and July,
since the fruit that falls us usually infested with worms. The worms will develop
into new months that lay eggs, hatch worms and invade your crop again later in the
summer.

Place corrugated cardboard bands (2-3 inches wide) around trunks of apple and pear
trees with the fluted side against the bark. This will proved a good pupation site
for the insect larvae before they emerge as moths once again. Use trunk bands from
late June through the early fall. Remove bands occasionally to check for the presence
of fine silk webbing with worms or pupae inside, then destroy the bands and replace
them.

The best defense against worms invading your fruit is to use a registered insecticide.
Based on the first activity of codling moths in the Cache Valley area and the temperatures
since then, it is predicted that the first insecticide spray should be applied to
apples and pears by June 1. First sprays should go on five to seven days earlier for
warmer areas of Northern Utah. Check with your local county Extension agent for an
update on when to spray in your area.

Fruit will need to be protected until you pick it or until the first part of September.
Reapply sprays based on the protection interval of the product you use (Imidan, 18-21
days; Diazinon, 10-14 days; Malathion, 5-7 days; Dipel or other Bt products, 3-5days).

Codling moths lay their eggs on apples and pears. The eggs eventually develop into
larva that bore into the fruit. It is the larva or worm that becomes a worry to gardeners
and fruit growers.

Over the past few years, many products to control codling moth have been taken off
the market or their use has been restricted to professionals only. However, a few
effective products remain on the market, both old and new.

Mike Pace, Extension agriculture agent and Tony McCammon, horticulture assistant,
both from Box Elder County, conducted trials last year to determine which products
are most effective against codling moth. Their findings follow.

The most important finding is controlling the first generation of the pest, including
timing the spray to coincide with the results of Utah State University’s trapping
and monitoring. Other important practices include spraying for proper coverage and
thinning the apples appropriately. When two apples touch because of inadequate thinning,
spray coverage is diminished. One small, unprotected spot leaves an entrance to the
apple that a worm will likely find.

Some products work better than others. The most successful insecticides are Sevin
and Malathion. Sevin is 89 percent effective and Malathion gives 75 percent protection
when each is sprayed according to label instructions. For most homeowners, this amount
of control is acceptable.

Organic controls that were tried include Syd-X (coddling moth virus), Last Call (pheromone
attract and kill product) and apple bags. Syd-X is not readily available for homeowner
use, but showed great promise with 70 percent control. It may be on the market in
the next few years, but is expected to be expensive. Last Call was found to be a little
worse than not spraying at all. It did a great job of attracting the moths, but did
very little to kill them. The apple bags had a 98 percent success rate after two cover
sprays were applied before putting bags on the apples. The down-side to apple bags
is the time spent placing a bag around each apple, then removing it later in the year.
Apple bags, which can be found on the Internet, are specially designed to protect
apples, but not damage them.

Another product not included in the trial, but which is reportedly successful, is
Spinosad. Sold under different trade names, this organic product is derived from the
fermentation of a naturally-occurring organism. It has proven successful in some research
applications. As with all products, be sure to read and follow all label instructions
carefully when applying.

Contact your local county Extension office for the specific timing of coddling moth
control in your area.

The western cherry fruit fly adult is a small true fly with dark bands on its wings. It
over winters in soil under cherry trees and adults emerge the following spring from
late May to early June in northern Utah. Once the fruits take on a salmon to rosy
blush in color they become soft enough for female fruit flies to penetrate the skin
to lay eggs. After the eggs develop under the skin, they hatch into white worms that
feed on the flesh of fruits. You find these small, white worms when you take a bite
or remove the cherry pit. Consuming fruit fly larvae is not harmful, but most Americans
don’t prefer to have a little extra protein with their fruit. Here are some tips
on how to keep the worms out of your cherries:

Insecticides are the primary control for cherry fruit fly. Begin protecting fruit
when it turns salmon to rose in color. It is most effective if all cherry trees in
an area are treated to prevent flies from emigrating from infested sites. Let your
neighbors know and encourage them to spray to help keep the fruit fly populations
down. Effective insecticides for the homeowner include spinosad (Success or Entrust),
permethrin, carbaryl (Sevin), methoxychlor, malathion, pyrethrum (Pyganic), endosulfan
(Thiodan), and azadirachtin (Neem, Azatin).

For helpful cultural control, place plastic landscape fabric or another barrier on
the ground under the canopy of cherry trees to prevent larvae in dropped fruit from
burrowing into the soil where they will pupate for the winter. Landscape fabric placed
in the spring will also prevent adults from emerging from the soil. Keep the fabric
in place year-round and prevent a buildup of soil and debris on top that would provide
pupation sites for the fruit fly.

The fruit can be ripened on the tree, but for better quality,they are best picked early and allowed to ripen indoors. A few guidelines to use in
determining whether pears are ready to be picked include: healthy fruits begin to
drop; there is a change in fruit color from green to yellow; and the stem separates
easily from the branch. To pick pears, grasp thefruit firmly and twist or roll it to make the stem separate from the tree. Give the
pears the "lift test." Put your index finger on the stem, lift the pear from the normal
vertical orientation to a horizontal or flat position, perhaps with a slight twist.
If the fruit "snaps" off cleanly between the stem and the twig, the pears are ready
to strip from the tree. If you have to wrench off the fruit either breaking the twig
or the fruit stem, the fruit is probably not ready. On larger trees, fruit growing
in the top often ripens earlier than fruit in the shaded interior.

If pears are picked before they are fully ripe, they should be ripened at a temperature
of 60° to 70°F. This will result in optimum quality and smoothness of flesh. If you
want to keep pears for a longer period of time, store the freshly picked fruit in
the refrigerator.

If any of your peaches survived the spring freezes then you will definitely not want
to share your precious harvest with the insects this year. There are two primary peach
insect pests in Utah that attack the fruit, twigs and trunks. It is important for
home gardeners and commercial orchardists to protect their crops as uncared for trees
serve as a source of insects for neighboring peaches.

Peach twig borer is a small brown moth as an adult and a chocolate brown caterpillar
in the young stage. This insect overwinters as a mature caterpillar on twigs and limbs
in a small chimney-shaped cocoon. When new buds begin to swell with warming temperatures
in the spring, caterpillars emerge and feed on buds and in elongating shoot tips.
An excellent preventive control for peach twig borer is to spray peach trees with
a dormant oil (highly refined petroleum oil) at first bud break and show of color
in the spring. The oil will coat the limbs and suffocate the overwintering caterpillars
before they become active. If the insect isn't controlled in the spring, and twig
flagging (drooping terminal shoots) occurs, prune off injured shoot tips to remove
insects before they complete development to an adult.

Subsequent generations of the peach twig borer caterpillars will bore into peach fruits
in June through September, especially entering at the stem end where they are difficult
to detect. The most effective way to protect fruit is to use a protective insecticide
spray. Timing sprays is important to avoid more treatments than necessary and ensure
effective control. The first spray is typically due in mid June in northern Utah.
Check with your local USU Extension county office for the proper timing for your area.
Two Utah State University web sites with information on home horticulture, timing
of tree fruit pest controls and integrated pest management are http://www.slcoedcr.org/usu/html/horthome.html
and http://extension.usu.edu/coop/ag/environ/ipm/index.htm. Effective insecticides
include endosulfan (Thiodan), phosmet (Imidan), diazinon and methoxychlor for the
home gardener and chlorpyrifos (Lorsban) for the commercial grower.

Another peach insect pest that can girdle and kill trees if left unchecked is the
greater peachtree borer. This insect is a day-flying clearwinged moth with a steel
blue body with yellow stripes. The adult moths lay eggs in cracks and crevices near
the base of peach, apricot and nectarine trees beginning in early July in northern
Utah. Cherry and plum are also hosts, but are not attacked as frequently in Utah.
Upon hatching, the caterpillars bore under the bark and feed in the cambium layer.
Repeated attack by borers can girdle and kill trees. Obvious signs of borers are sapping
holes with a buildup of sawdust on or under the holes. The most effective control
is to kill eggs and larvae with a protective insecticide treatment. Endosulfan (Thiodan)
(Lorsban for commercial growers) should be applied only to the lower trunk (avoid
limbs and fruit) the first week of July in northern Utah and repeated in the first
week of August. A mechanical control for borers already present in trunks is to insert
a wire and puncture the insect in the spring to early summer or fall. Use of pheromone
mating disruption is very effective in orchards one acre or larger. Contact your local
USU Extension office for more information.

Traditionally, both sour and sweet cherry trees are trained to an open center form.

Here is a website I’ve found that has a couple of good diagrams and photos of an open
center tree form:http://www.uga.edu/fruit/chapter1.html (scroll down a little further than halfway through the webpage).

As you can see there, you want to select 3 to four scaffold branches that are evenly
distributed around the perimeter of the tree trunk. Therefore, you will top the tree
above the highest scaffold branch.

Take care to leave about one-quarter inch above the topmost branch to allow the cut
to heal without harming the top branch. Angle the top cut away from the uppermost
scaffold branch so that any rain will run off and not pool on a horizontal cut surface
(this could cause rot of the heartwood).

I am wondering if the worms in cherries are safe to eat? They are so small it doesn't
really bother me to eat them but I don't want to if they could make me sick or continue
to live and grow inside me.

A

The worms are actually maggots of the Western Cherry Fruit Fly. I couldn’t find references
on whether or not it is safe to eat, but I would caution you because of the nature
of the maggot is to eat the fruit, and possibly damage it. The damage caused by the
worm could possibly allow other pathogens like bacteria enter the fruit that may make
you sick, so I would stay away from blemished fruit. As for living in your stomach,
the gastric environment is pretty acidic and the maggots would probably not survive
in that environment.

One consideration about controlling the western cherry fruit fly is possible infestation
to neighboring trees. Your infested tree could be a source for neighboring cherry
trees, so a good idea is to use mulch or barrier around the base of the tree to reduce
pupation (adult fly emergence).

There is more information that can be found on the following link to a USU fact sheet
on Western Cherry Fruit Fly.

I had my apple tree pruned this spring and ever since then apple suckers have been
coming up all over my yard; especially in my grass. Nothing I've sprayed seems to
kill off the suckers, including round-up and sucker stopper. What do you recommend
to erradicate apple suckers?

A

It is not common for apples to sucker all over the yard. Normally they are confined
to the area around the base of the tree and then they are simply pruned back every
year. One problem with killing the suckers is it may damage the tree. Roundup is
usually effective against these suckers. You may need to add a sticker/spreader in
the solution to get better penetration. You can also try a chemical called triclopyr
(sold as brush-b-gon). Be careful, this can damage or even kill the apple tree.

I have a 6-year old dwarf braeburn apple tree. It has gotten very tall and a large
part of the tree split off in a windstorm. I need to prune it back and am wondering
when I can safely do so.

A

Early spring is the best time to prune most deciduous trees, such as apple. The tree
should be completely dormant, but wait until the absolutely coldest part of winter
is probably past. Early to mid-March is usually ideal.

I have a bartlett pear tree. A Limb is almost black, but growth was still coming out
of the ends, so i didn't prune it off the tree all the way in the spring. Now other
parts of the tree are turning black, some of the leaves are curling and turning black
as well as some of the fruit. Can I save the tree, or do I need to pull it out. Also
will this spread to my other two nearby peach and apple tree.

A

Bartlett pear is very susceptible to fire blight, a bacterial disease that can eventually
kill the entire tree.

Apple is also susceptible to fireblight, but peach is not. Always watch your orchard
carefully. If you see a branch tip showing the typical "crook" and blackened leaves,
prune the branch back at least 12 inches below any discoloration. This will most likely
prevent the disease from spreading into the rest of the tree.

On the other hand, are you sure your tree was not freeze damaged a couple of weeks
ago? Blackened leaves are often caused by freeze damage. My grape plant was damaged
, but new growth looks okay. If you see new, healthy leaves growing from the same
branch tips where leaves are blackened, perhaps the tree is fine.

I have a grove of plum trees that make a nice addition to the landscape, but too much
fruit is a problem. Is there something to treat the tree with so it doesn't produce
fruit?

A

There a couple things you can do. There is a product called Florel Fruit Eliminator
- a hormone that you spray on. You should be able to find it at a good nursery.
The word is that it works well the first year and then not as well in succeeding years.
It seems as though the trees develop an immunity to it. Another way would be to use
the garden hose and physically spray the tree when in bloom to knock off the blossoms.

I have a peach tree that I want to save - it's almost completely dead because of borers.
There are some healthy branches on it still, and I'm wondering about the possibility
of grafting some of this stock onto another peach tree I have. Where can I find out
how to do this?

A

Success in grafting depends on tissue compatibility, good technique, appropriate timing,
and luck. You need luck for the elements out of your control - the weather is one
example.

Scion wood - the cuttings of the tree you want to save - should be taken from the
tree during dormancy. Although you could take cuttings as early as December, it's
usually better to wait until about February (unless we have had an unusually mild
late winter and tree buds are already swelling). The longer you wait to take the cuttings,
the shorter time the cuttings will need to be stored. Storage opens opportunities
for mold, rot, desiccation, and other accidental damage. Graft the scion onto the
new tree in spring when bark just starts to "slip" - this is when the tree is coming
out of dormancy. Usually, this is around late March, but every year is different.
Staggering some of your grafts time-wise may help you catch the "just right" time
and weather conditions. This spring would have been challenging for grafting, because
of the early heat, late frost, and subsequent heat again. When weather is mild, there
is a better chance that the graft will "take" since there will be less stress on the
tree.

Here are some links to good online publications or downloadable publications about
grafting:

I have been spraying Captan on my fruit trees for several years. This year I discovered
at IFA that Captan is no longer allowed, so I purchased malathion (57%). Is there
any problem spraying the malathion over the Captan? It has been three weeks since
the last spray of Captan. I'd like to spray tomorrow (7/30), so it would be helpful
to know as soon as possible.

A

Captan is a fungicide and primarily for control of apple scab, black rot, lotch, Botrytis
blossom infection. Malathion is one of severalinsecticides used for control of codling moth. So they have very different functions
- malathion is not a fungicide. I have copied a section below about Captan which
states it should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials or with oil within
4 days. Malathion is often prepared in an oil solution so caution should be used
if timing is too close to last Captan spray. My question for you is what are you
treating your fruit trees for??It is best to use an appropriate chemical when you have identified the pest, generally
we do not recommend spraying as a preventative.

There also is information at USU Extension website for more information on Integrated
Pest Management is a strategic approach to plant and animal care that seeks to suppress
pest populations while minimizing pest control costs and environmental disruption.http://utahpests.usu.edu/ipm/

Captan 50W or 80W formulations are used at 6.0-8.0 lb/A of Captan 50W or 3.75-5.0
lb/A of Captan 80W, for control of diseases on apple; other formulations should be
used according to label direction. On apples Captan has proven effective in the control
of apple scab, black rot, Brooks spot, Botryosphaeria rot, blotch, bitter rot, Botrytis
blossom infection, fly speck, and sooty blotch. Captan=s residual life is elatively
short, consequently, sooty blotch, fly speck, and fruit rot control may not be satisfactory
where sprays are discontinued more than 3 weeks prior to harvest. The higher indicated
rates are for severe summer disease pressure. Captan may produce frogeye-like spotting of the foliage of Delicious, Stayman, and
Winesap early in the season. The small spots do not enlarge and are no cause for alarm.
The inclusion of sulfur in the spray mixture may increase this type of injury.

Captan should not be used with lime or other alkaline materials. Do not use it with
oil or within four days of an oil spray. Do not use incombination with EC formulations of parathion. Captan should be used with caution
in bloom sprays, especially on varieties which are hard to pollinate (e.g. Red Delicious).
Captan has been shown to severely reduce pollen viability for 24 - 48 hours after
application.

Although new Captan labels permit application to apples up to the day of harvest,
Captan has a 4-day re-entry interval which makes pre-harvest application more restrictive.
A label exception is made for the last 48 hours of the re-entry interval during which
workers may enter the treated area to perform hand labor or other tasks involving
contact with anything that has been treated, without time limit, if they wear ll
of the following: coveralls, waterproof gloves, shoes and socks, and protective eye
wear. http://www.caf.wvu.edu/kearneysville/profile/critfung.htm

I have many different types of fruit trees in my yard. Yellow Delicious, Gala, Jonathan,
Macantosh, Elberta Peaches, Stanley Plums, Danjo Pears, Barlet Pears, Apricots, Bing
Cherries, and Elderberries. When is the best time to harvest each of these?

A

Apples - seeds are brown inside, apples start to drop, some people like to wait closer
to frostpeaches - color and they start to soften fall from treepears - seeds are brown inside (D'anjo after frost, Bartlett when they turn lighter
green)apricots - color and softenCherries dark colorElderberries - blue and powdery

I have purchased a few acres in summit county at about 9500 feet elevation. The property
is in the middle of a meadow, with no natural trees. I would like to plant some evergreen
seedlings. Will they grow? I am wondering why the meadow would not already have these
types of trees, if they would in fact grow there. Can you recommend the best type
of tree for success, or am I better off saving my money? There are evergreens growing
all around the meadow a few hundred yards away. Thanks.

A

Doug, You are asking the right question - why are there no trees there now? If trees
haven't been removed some time in the past (i.e. it is a natural meadow), then the
most likely cause is that the site is a little drier than a tree needs (trees need
above about 18 inches or more of precip a year, & much of that needs to come in the
growing season; spruces & firs need more like a minimum of 25 inches a year).

Ironically, the site also could be too wet. If the area is water-logged or soupy most
trees won't survive.

So, if the site is a little too dry in summer, all you have to do is irrigate. You
could plant junipers (toughest and best), Douglas-fir, Engelmann or blue spruce, or
white or subalpine fir (least tough).

Until the trees get up in height you might need to fence them to protect from deer
damage.

Water

Can I use laundry water to water plants and lawn instead of just sending it into the
sewer?

A

"Can I use laundry water to water plants and lawn instead of just sending it into
the sewer, and if so is there some where I can go to find more information on this?"

We are assuming you live in Utah. If not, you will need to check with your state environmental
quality and/or health department. Utah does not currently allow the use of graywater
piped directly from the home for irrigating landscapes. Exceptions can be made for
certain experimental systems. If you want to pursue this begin by contacting your
local health department.

"I have just read your pamphlet (online) on how to water trees and shrubs. The article
states that trees and shrubs should be watered to a depth of 18-20 inches. How deep
should perennials, annuals, and lawn be watered?"

As the online bulletin suggests, I would water your trees and shrubs to an average
depth of about 18-20 inches. I would encourage you to water your lawn to a depth of
about 6 inches- if your soil is that deep. Your perennials and annuals should be watered
to a depth of about 6-8 inches (similar to turfgrass or a little deeper if they will
be competing with the turfgrass for water).

While this seems like a simple question, it is actually rather complex. Different
sprinkler heads emit different amounts of water and it is impossible to know exactly
how much water your system puts out over a period of time without actually testing
it. The manufacturer's specifications for the sprinkler heads will list a precipitation
rate, but this is water pressure-dependent and you should still test your system.
Testing can be done with something as simple as a soup cans or a milk cartons, or
you may obtain irrigation catch cups for this purpose from your county USU Extension
office. The testing is described in detail on the following website:http://www.uc.usbr.gov/progact/waterconsv/pub_select.html

I am currently looking to put in a turf grass and I wanted to know which would be
the better choice between Buffalograss, Blue grama, crested wheat grass or Sideoats
grama grass?

A

"I live in Tooele. I am currently looking put in a turf grass and I wanted to know
which would be the better choice between Buffalograss, Blue grama,, crested wheat
grass or Sideoats grama grass? My soil is heavy clay and is full of rocks. I do intend
on planting a couple of shade trees in the area in question. You advice would be greatly
appreciated."

It all depends on the time of the year you desire green/blue grass. Buffalo grass
and Blue gramma are warm season grasses and will be dormant most of the year except
for June July and August. It is hard to get established as well but can be satisfactory.
Chested wheat grass is a cool season grass and will look its best during spring and
fall. It will tend to go dormant in the heat of the summer but green up early spring
and stay green late into the fall. Both choices will work however, the grasses mentioned
are not very shade tolerant. Shade trees in the are could pose a problem. To see these
grasses up close and personal come to the Tooele County Extension Office at 151 North
Main in Tooele. We have 4' X 4' plots of these grasses for your viewing pleasure.

I am going to Hydroseed this weekend and need to know how much to water so that it
germinates correctly.

A

"I am going to Hydroseed this weekend and need to know how much to water so that it
germinates correctly. I have an automatic system and the soil is a sandy loam."

Hydroseed normally places a mulch-like carrier along with the seed. This material
absorbs water and slows drying at the soil surface. However, frequent, small doses
of water are still necessary to germinate the seed and carry young plants through
the sensitive germination and establishment phases. After hydroseeding, irrigate once
a day with a relatively small amount of water (0.1-0.2 inch) until germination occurs.
Periodically check the hydroseed layer to insure it is remaining moist during the
heat of the day. If you are in an extremely hot, dry area and the layer appears to
be drying out, you may have to irrigate twice a day until germination occurs. After
germination back off and irrigate once every other day with approximately 0.25 inch
of water. Continue to irrigate every other day for about 1 month to allow the grass
root system to establish. After 1 month gradually return to the normal irrigation
cycle recommended for your area.

To determine how much water your system is applying use straight sided cans or catch
cups available from your local County Extension office. Place several cans at different
locations in the landscape. Turn the sprinkler system on and catch the output for
10 or 15 minutes. Measure the amount of water in each can and calculate the output
rate in inches per hour. Use this output rate to determine how long you have to run
your system to apply the desired amount of water.

I am looking to plant Buffalo grass, which type of Buffalo grass would you recommend
for Tooele?

A

There are several varieties of Buffalograss that will do well in Tooele. I would recommend
Texoka, Cody, Bison, Sharps Improved, Legacy (vegetative), 609, or Bowie (seed). For
your information, there is also one supplier of Legacy Buffalograss sod in the state.
That is Lake Mountain Farms in Sandy. There phone number is (801) 562-9090. Good luck!

I have noticed quite a few brown areas in lawns in the Salt Lake area, including my
own.

A

"I have noticed quite a few brown areas in lawns in the Salt Lake area, including
my own. I have tried to be water-wise when watering my lawn. Every 3 days, I water
after the sun goes down or after 6 pm in shaded areas only. The settings were max
15 minutes and I recently added another 5 minutes. But the brown areas aren't showing
any significant improvement. My neighbor waters more often than I and her lawn has
a huge brown area that appeared in the last couple of weeks. Another neighbor said
it was because there is some kind of insect infesting the lawns in the area but I
have also heard it is because of the early onset of the hot days. I know if the problem
is the heat I will just have to wait it out. But if it is insects, what do I do?"

The brown areas that you are seeing in your lawn are to be expected given the temperatures
we are currently experiencing here in Utah. You are to be commended for your water-wise
irrigating, but even if you were to pour the water on right now, it is still very
likely that you would have brown areas. The reason for this is that the cool-season
grasses we typically grow here in Utah are not well-adapted to the current high temperatures.
Rest assured, however, that even though you may have brown areas, the grass is not
dead. It is only becoming dormant in order to protect itself from heat and drought.
In the fall, as the temperatures cool off, grass will revive and become green again.
In fact, you could apply as little as 1" of water per month right now and the grass
would still be fine in the fall. This is known as survival watering because it keeps
the crown (where growth originates) of the grass plants alive even though the leaves
are dormant. It is most likely that your problem is heat related, but if you are concerned
about insects, I would encourage you to take a sample of your lawn into your Utah
State University County Extension Office for examination. The sample should include
2-3" of soil as well as the grass.

I have someone with about ¾ of an acre and they want to plant some kind of grass that
won't require a lot of water or mowing but is good for children to play on.

A

"I have someone with about ¾ of an acre and they want to plant some kind of grass
that won't require a lot of water or mowing but is good for children to play on. They
have some water for the property and are going to put in two big sprinklers in hopes
that will cover the area. They dont want any animals on it. They are willing to try
different types of plants on the acreage. Can you recommend anything for her?"

Tall fescue works well in a low maintenance situation. It needs regular watering to
remain green during the summer, but slightly less water than Kentucky bluegrass. Fescue
is more tolerant of prolonged drought than Kentucky bluegrass. This would be the best
choice if this person expects a lot of kid play on it during the year. Buffalograss
still needs some irrigation during the summer, but will use significantly less water
(½ of that needed by Kentucky bluegrass). Buffalograss will be brown (dormant) during
the cooler times of year, from October to April. When Buffalograss is dormant, it
shouldn't have a lot of traffic, i.e. soccer games, etc. Some activity is fine. It
is more expensive to plant and a bit more difficult to establish than Kentucky bluegrass
or tall fescue. Crested wheatgrass is the best solution if you don't want to water
at all once the grass is established. It will create a nice green turf in spring and
fall, but will be dormant during the summer.

I have thinned out my scrub oak as a fire preventative, but I keep getting lots of
runners. How do I control the runners?

A

It's good you've thinned your oak for fire hazard reduction. However, Gambel oak reproduces
by forming sprouts along it's root system (the runners you mention) that grow quickly
to fill gaps in the canopy. This sprouting is actually encouraged by thinning or pruning.
It is possible to reduce sprouting by applying glyphosate (Roundup) or triclopyr (Ortho
Brush-B-Gon) to stumps, but since the stump is connected by it's root system to adjacent
trees, you may end up harming remaining trees you don't want to remove. You also can
spray emerging sprouts with the same chemicals, but again may harm remaining trees.
Therefore, the best and only way to handle the sprouts, unless you want to eliminate
oak from an area completely, is to mechanically remove the sprouts by pruning, mowing,
digging, etc. There's really no other way. By the way, we have a fact sheet on Firewise
Plants available athttp://web2.ad.ext.usu.edu/publications/publication=6278.

I live in Provo and have two large dogs. They have made my back yard dirt. To fix
this, should I sod or hydro seed?

A

"I live in Provo and have two large dogs. They have made my back yard dirt. To fix
this, should I sod or hydro seed? I want a fix before winter. I also want to know
what kind of grass is good for having dogs on it."

You are facing a difficult challenge. Dogs, and especially large ones, can be very
tough on a lawn. I would recommend sodding the area, especially this late in the season.
If you were to hydroseed, you'd run the very likely risk of having your dogs disturb
the seed before it could get established. If you use sod, be sure that you apply sufficient
water to allow it to establish before winter and try to minimize dog traffic if at
all possible.

I want to revamp my lawn area plant more drought tolerant plants. Is there a way I
can adjust my sprinklers to work with my new landscape - without digging the system
up or hiring a professional?

A

The process is called retrofitting and you will be much more successful with it if
you have a reasonable idea of the design of your current sprinkler system. You will
also be more successful if your landscape irrigation system is separated into different
zones or run from different valves. If your current lawn area is on its own irrigation
zone or valve, you may choose to do something as simple as removing the nozzles from
the existing sprinklers and replacing them with multi-outlet emission devices. These
devices allow you to run dripline from the sprinklers to specific plants in your landscape
and may have room for up to 8 outlets. This is the most efficient way to irrigate
your new drought-tolerant plants and there are several manufacturers of such equipment.
You might also choose to irrigate your new landscape with your current system and
adjust your irrigation schedule to compensate for the lower water requirements of
the plants. This would be particularly effective for irrigating a drought-tolerant
ground cover. Another strategy would be capping sprinkler heads that are no longer
needed in your new landscape. Whichever you choose, these are all methods that you
could do on your own without digging or hiring a professional.

I would like to replace my dying grass with wildflowers on a sandy, hill on S. mountain.
What kind of wildflowers are drought resistant and would they grow well, and where
could I buy them?

A

Wildflowers such as blanket flower, penstemon species, oriental poppies, coreopsis
and globemallow are suggestions for drought resistant species for your situation.
Granite Seed Co.,http://www.graniteseed.com/mixes/index.html is good place to look for information about wildflowers as well as a good wildflower
seed supplier.

If I don't have enough water to fully irrigate all of my crop land should I try to
spread the water across all of the acreage, or irrigate fewer acres with closer to
full irrigation?

A

Concentrate the water on fewer acres or on the crop giving the highest economic return.
It is best to fully irrigate the acreage that can be fully irrigated with the available
water, and let the rest of the area go.

It is July 6th and I have a dirt yard now. Is it too late to plant a few trees and
shrubs and would it be better to hydroseed now or wait until September?

A

The timing of your hydroseeding depends largely on the turfgrass species that you
are trying to grow. If you will be seeding any of the cool-season grasses such as
Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescues or the fine-leaf fescues, it would be better to wait
until the weather cools off in the fall. The fall is the best time to seed those grasses.
If you will be using a warm-season grass such as buffalograss, this time of year would
be alright for seeding although June would have been better.

The governor's initiative says that I shouldn't water between 10AM and 6 PM. Won't
I have disease problems if I irrigate at night?

A

This is a common misconception. While it is true that irrigating at night will increase
the humidity in your landscape, it will not be enough to encourage diseases if you
are not over-watering. This is a good reason to monitor your irrigation carefully
and to follow an appropriate irrigation schedule.

This year we've noticed that many of our scrub oak trees have not shown any leaves.
Adjacent properties have the same issue.

A

"We recently purchased property that has quite a few scrub oak trees. Last year these
trees were full of leaves. However, this year we've noticed that many of our scrub
oak trees have not shown any leaves. Adjacent properties have the same issue. We've
also noticed that many of the scrub oaks in Wasatch and Summit counties have not yet
produced leaves? Is the drought causing this or are there other factors? Our property
does not have irrigation access."

Many trees and shrubs are suffering from late frosts we've had this year in northern
Utah. Even cold-hardy plants have been frozen back. Past years' droughts usually don't
matter in terms of their effects on this year's foliage so early in the year, as long
as you currently have adequate moisture. If it's currently very dry then it could
be drought, though the trees would have leaf-out and then later shown signs of drought
injury. There also are a number of pests that can cause shoot dieback or temporary
defoliation of Gambel oak; go tohttp://web2.ad.ext.usu.edu/drought/publications/publication=5775

We live in a rural area and our indoor and outdoor water source is a flowing artesian
well. It's only August, and the well is no longer "flowing." What has to happen for
the well to start producing water?

A

"We live in a rural area and our indoor and outdoor water source is a flowing artesian
well. It's only August, and the well is no longer "flowing." We're still able to get
water indoors via a pressure pump/holding tank (it takes our pump about 5 minutes
to refill the water holding tank after one "flush"), but fear that will soon end.
Any suggestions? Also, what has to happen for the well to start producing water?"

I suspect that you are experiencing temporary loss of water pressure from your well
because of this year's drought conditions. As you probably know, the source of an
artesian well is groundwater that is under pressure. As a result, when you tap into
this groundwater region (called an artesian aquifer), the water flows freely at the
surface. Under drought conditions, groundwater levels may drop, causing a reduction
in the underground pressure on your water source. Because of this, the water is no
longer flowing freely at the surface. For the water to begin flowing again, the groundwater
source needs to recharge. In other words, we need rain (or snow) that will soak into
the ground and eventually restore the water to your aquifer. I can't predict when
your well will begin flowing again because I don't know the exact conditions of your
site. How fast the aquifer recharges depends on many things, including local soils,
underlying geology, other groundwater sources, etc. You might try not using the artesian
well at all for a few days. If the pressure seems to come back fairly quickly, you
may get pressure restored to your well relatively soon once we get some rain again.
Keep in mind, however, that water movement through the ground is very slow compared
to water movement on the surface. Meanwhile, you have several options until the pressure
in your well is restored: 1. You can take care of some of your water needs by using
bottled or stored water; 2. You can use an alternative source of water (such as trucking
in water) to fill your holding tank; 3. You can explore pumping water from your artesian
well source; 4. You can explore putting in a new well. For the last two options, you
will need to contact a well digger or pump installer to discuss this with you. Your
local Utah Water Rights offices keep a list of licensed water well drillers in your
area. Their numbers are: Cedar City: 435-586-4231; Logan: 435-752-8755; Price:435-637-1303;
Richfield: 435-896-4429; Salt Lake: 801-538-7240; and Vernal: 435-781-5327. The Utah
Division of Water Rights in Salt Lake City (801-538-7240) can verify that a contractor
is licensed and bonded. Remember, if you store water, be careful to use a clean container
and treat it as needed. Check out the Water Storage fact sheet on the Extension Web
site (FN 176). If you develop a new well, you will also want to get the well tested.
Contact your local Health Department for assistance.

Blossom end rot can be caused when calcium and/or water levels in the root zone are
low. In our soils, generally calcium is plentiful and low water levels are the cause
of the deficiency in the fruit. When water in the soil is in short supply, the plant
takes up insufficient amounts of calcium to meet the plants demand. Since calcium
is transported in the xylem with the water, during conditions when water is in short
supply, most of the water is transported to the leaf and very small amounts are transported
to the flowers. This causes a localized deficiency which is expressed as the development
of a brown leathery patch on the blossom end of the fruit. This just happens to be
the area where fruit growth is most rapid. What conditions cause blossom end rot.
There are several. These include low soil moisture levels (water stress), high temperatures
(high water demand by the plant), high salinity levels in soils (less available water
for plant use), low humidity levels (greater transpiration by leaf so less water and
calcium goes to the fruits) and rapid plant growth rates (high demand for calcium)
to meet cell wall requirements. Cultivar differences also exist. Small fruited tomatoes
are less prone to the disorder than large fruited types. This is due to the rate of
cell growth and demand for calcium in the fruits.

How can it be controlled? First try to maintain more even soil moisture levels. Don't
let the soil fluctuate greatly from wet to dry and then wet again. Second, maintain
more even growth rates. Excess nitrogen in the soil accelerates growth and makes the
plants more susceptible to blossom end rot. If salts are a problem, see what can be
done to leach them out before growing tomato or water with a less salty water source
so the salt levels of the soil does not build up. Finally, after you have done all
of these other things, try growing a smaller fruited cultivar, thin the number of
fruits on a cluster to 2-3 and spray the plant periodically with calcium nitrate or
calcium chloride (4 grams per liter of water) starting about a month after planting.
Do every two weeks through the main flowering period.

"Do we need to rake up the dead grass before we plant? What is the best way to plant
the wildflowers? For our front yard, if we plant drought resistant grass, do I have
to remove the dead Kentucky bluegrass first? Also, are wildflowers and native grasses
bug/slug resistant?"

First, you need to make sure the grass is actually dead. If it's still alive you will
start seeing some growth when the temperatures start to warm up (about March). If
this is the case, allow the grass to grow up a little in early spring and then treat
it with Round-Up. Either way, you will need to remove the dead sod before you plant
your wildflowers. I would suggest broadcasting the wildflower seeds and then raking
over them to make sure they are covered. It will be important the first year that
you control the weeds - this will cut down on the possibility of future weed problems.
Once you get the wildflowers established, they will have a much better chance of out
competing the weeds. In general, native plants do tend to be more insect and disease
resistant.

What kind of grass does well in St. George with minimal watering and how/when can
we start it from seed?

A

"I am a new home owner in Saint George with absolutely NO former gardening experience
(aside from killing a few house plants). I actually have many questions but will limit
it to two.1) What kind of grass does well in this area with minimal watering and how/when can
we start it from seed? The soil is very sandy, never tested and the lawn will have
moderate to heavy traffic. 2) What is a good gardening resource for a beginner who
is entirely illiterate in gardening terms and techniques but still wants to do it
all "myself.""

Your choice of grass in the St. George area is going to be somewhat dependent on your
expectations for your lawn. Two possible species for you to use are tall fescue and
buffalograss. Tall fescue is commonly used in St. George. It is a cool-season grass
that looks very similar to Kentucky bluegrass. It is also very deeply-rooted which
allows it to survive drought stress well. There are several tall fescue sod suppliers
to choose from in your area and seeding is also an option. Another possibility for
you is Buffalograss. It is a warm-season grass that has a more blue-gray color than
Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. While there is a Buffalograss sod supplier in Sandy,
it might be more cost-effective for you to seed due to your location. The big question
in deciding which species to choose is how much watering do you want to do? Tall fescue
has a water requirement that is slightly less than Kentucky bluegrass. This means
that you would need to apply approximately 30 inches of water to it each year. Buffalograss,
on the other hand, uses about 1/4 the water of Kentucky bluegrass and so you would
need to apply approximately 8 inches of water to it each year. The only drawback of
Buffalograss is that is is a bit slow to repair itself and does not respond well to
traffic. If you anticipate a great deal of wear from pets or children, you may want
to look more closely at tall fescue.

In Utah, the most commonly-used type of grass is Kentucky bluegrass. Unfortunately,
it also uses more water than any other turfgrass species. Other options that will
do well in Utah's climate but use less water are Tall fescue, the fine leaf fescues,
Buffalograss, Blue grama, and Crested wheatgrass. Tall fescue uses from 10 to 30%
less water than Kentucky bluegrass and fine leaf fescues use slightly less than that.
Buffalograss and Blue grama grass use approximately 50% less water than Kentucky bluegrass.
Crested wheatgrass can actually survive without any supplemental irrigation once it's
established.

"I have heard the name Zoysia grass as a grass that uses much less water than the
bluegrass mixes many of us have here in Utah. Can you tell me anything about it? Would
it be a good alternative to the bluegrass? Would buffalo or blue grama grass better
options? I have fairly large grass areas in my yard and would like something that
would be more drought friendly."

Zoysiagrass has come up a number of times in the past couple of weeks, primarily because
of some advertisements for Amazoy. In short, Amazoy, or zoysiagrass is not a good
option here in northern Utah. While there are a number of cold hardy zoyisagrasses,
I wouldn't recommend them. Amazoy is actually a variety called Meyer zoysiagrass,
which has been around since the 1950's, so even if you wanted to use zoysiagrass,
there are much improved varieties being sold. I don't believe anyone is selling zoysiagrass
in northern Utah, however.

Yard

Sub Topics

I have tall thin Junipers in my backyard. They resemble a Hollywood Juniper but I
am not sure of their species. They are 25 years old and have begun to look like they
are dying, the needles are turning brown and falling off. Is there anything I can
do to save them?

A

Junipers are some of our most hardy landscape plants, but can develop problems when
the weather is very hot (such as it has been this summer!) I suspect your junipers
need more water. They are mature trees now,and their root systems are probably quite extensive. Realize that they may have extended
their roots outwards at least 25 feet (same as their height).So, if you have be watering
only as much as usual, and these trees aresurrounded by lawn, they are probably heat stressed and need more water.

I usually recommend watering trees extra during the hot summer months, making sure
to deliver the water over most of the root zone, applying the water slowly enough
so that the soil is wet 12 to 18 inches deep. This deeper soil moisture will be available
to the trees but not to the lawn grass, so you can be sure that the trees will be
able to take it up. Soaker hoses are great for this purpose, since they emit water
very slowly and the water can percolate down into the soil without running off down
grade.

When junipers are stressed, they are very attractive to spidermites. You can check
for spider mites by holding a white piece of paper under a branch, striking the branch
sharply, and catching the "dust" onto the paper. Watch the dust a moment. If pieces
of "dust" start crawling around, the tree is infested with spider mites. To control
spider mites without significantly harming the beneficial mites and insects that prey
on them, try spraying the trees with a sharp stream of water every few days. This,
plus the extra water you will provide, will probably help the trees regain their vigor.
A shot of nitrogen fertilizer over their root zone would probably help, too. Apply
the fertilizer before doing the deep watering so that it reaches the deeper tree roots
(and won't be "stolen" by the lawn grass).

Spotted spurge is taking over my lawn. What can I do now, in these hot August temperatures,
to knock back this weed problem?

A

Spurge, and most other weeds, tends to grow in exposed soil and areas where lawn turfgrass
is not growing well. I encourage you to first analyze why your lawn is not able to
compete against this weed. Are you watering too requently? Was the soil contaminated
with de-icing salts? Are you mowing with the deck too low? If the weed is infesting
a flowerbed, cover the bare soil with mulch. This will greatly retard weed infestations. Eliminating
the weed habitat will make lawn and garden maintenance easier in the long run.

To get immediate control, you could pull the spurge (wear gloves since the milky
sap can be irritating to some people)or cut it off at the soil line with a hoe. There
is an herbicide that controls spurge and has no high-temperature constraints. It's
a blend of triclopyr and clopyralid; one brand name is "Confront". There may be other
brand names available, too. USU Extension's publication titled "Yard and Garden
Weed Control" is a useful tool in selecting weed management strategies. You can download
it from this website:http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/HG508.pdf

If you choose to use an herbicide to help control spurge, be sure to follow all the
label directions and restrictions. Specifically, there are directions on the "Confront"
label for avoiding use where this chemical might contaminate groundwater.

The following perennials are sure-fire, low-maintenance choices for the landscape.
They look good, bring class to the landscape and are some of the tougher, more dependable
plant choices.

Hummingbird fuchsia (Zauschneria). This plant is low-growing, can be trained to cascade
over rocks and walls and has a bright red/orange flower that blooms from August until
the first freeze. Like the name implies, it attracts hummingbirds as well as butterflies.
It is not related to the prima donna fuchsia (as the name might suggest), but the
flower is somewhat similar.

Bee Balm (Monarda). This perennial has a deep-red blossom that flowers about mid-summer.
It attracts bees and butterflies and grows from one-and-one half to three feet tall.
It spreads by rhizomes, and is a good choice for a background planting or for use
in a less formal garden.

Hosta: For shady locations, hosta is a great choice. Hostas are grown for their unique
color combinations and leaf shapes. Many varieties are available.

Coral Bells (Heuchera): This is another plant that is happiest in shady areas, and
also has beautiful foliage. In addition, most send up attractive red to pink colored
flowers in the spring. This native to the Intermountain area grows about 8 to 12 inches
tall with flower spikes that can reach a height of nearly 18 inches.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis): Many people may have had a bad experience with the old-fashioned
orange daylilies that used to crowd ditch banks and fields, but the newer varieties
are interesting and attractive. Their color combinations and length of bloom have
increased over the past few years, making daylilies one of the more delightful, prolific
perennials for our area.

Gaura: This perennial grows between 2 to 3 feet tall and flowers from late May through
the first frost. Its graceful stems are covered with small pink or white blossoms
that are attractive in a background planting or can fill in empty spaces in a flowerbed.

Crocosmia: This perennial is related to the iris, so its foliage is quite similar.
In July it produces beautiful, vivid red flowers that stand about 4 feet tall.

Could you please identify the pine-like tree on the north side of our home? The needles
are on two sides of the twig rather than on all four sides. They (the needles) are
very soft and are dark green. At this time of the year (Sep), the trees bear red berries.
The trees are approximately 35 years old and are 12-14 feet tall. Thank you very much
for your assistance!

A

It is a Yew (Genus Taxus). There are several species namely English and Japanese.
You can put this in a search on the internet and maybe pick out your particular species.
Yews have male and female plants with the fruit bearing being female. The berries
are poisonous.

There are many reasons a tree or shrub may need to be pruned. For ornamental and shade
trees:

Remember that the tree limbs and branches will stay at the same height for the entire
life of the tree. The growing point for the tree is located in the top terminal bud,
and the rest of the tree will only grow in circumference. If the branch is four feet
off the ground today, it will be four feet off the ground in 20 years.

You can safely prune most trees through the end of May. Most pruning is done before
the tree leaves out because it is easier to see where to prune and easier to get into
the tree. I recommend pruning in March and early April.

Do very little pruning on ornamental trees. Prune wood that is dead, diseased or injured
and branches that cross (rub) or grow back into the center of the tree or are out
of place. Be sure to keep the natural shape of the tree intact.

Fruit trees are normally trained and pruned to increase their productivity and keep
their size under control. It is best to prune them on an annual basis, starting the
first year they are planted. Too many people wait until the tree is five or ten years
old before they consider pruning. Begin training a fruit tree the first year it is
planted.

Don’t let firsttime pruning intimidate you. Decide for yourself how you want the tree
to look in five, 10 or even 20 years, then start to shape it as you prune. The main
objective of pruning fruit trees is to keep the tree open, allowing light to penetrate
into the center of the tree.

New fruit trees normally need four to six branches to form the lower scaffolding.
In orchards, many trees are trained with a central leader, or main trunk, with many
scaffolding layers. For backyard orchardists with only a few trees it’s best to prune
fruit trees as an open vase. An open vase tree has only one scaffolding layer and
the center of the tree remains open.

To create this shape keep five or so branches that are kept should be three to five
feet off the ground, and spaced evenly around the tree. This is the framework for
the open vase. As these branches grow they become the major wood which produces the
fruit. Picture the tree as a giant solar collector, and space the branches around
the tree to optimize the amount of sun it can collect.

Apple, pear and cherry trees naturally try to grow a central leader, or a main trunk
system. Removing the leader to create an open vase makes the tree take on an unnatural
shape. The branches may each try to become the main trunk and grow upright. Discourage
this by training branches to grow in a horizontal direction by either tying them down
with string, placing weights out on the ends of the branches or placing a spacer in
the fork to force a wider angle.

Most spacers are made with a piece of 1 x 1 wood with finishing nails placed in both
ends to keep it steady. Be careful whenever bending and forcing a branch down. Do
this after the sap starts to flow in the tree so the wood is pliable. Begin forming
only young wood branches. Do not try to bend any wood more than a year or two old.
This is another reason it’s important to begin training a tree when it is young and
the tree is still pliable enough to bend.

Leave spacers in the tree for a year or two, then remove them or place them in another
part of the tree. Trained wood will remain that way for the rest of the tree’s life.

As with humans, when a plant is sick, it looks miserable for a while, receives extra
water, gets thrown some expensive granules, and is expected to get better. However,
when the plant dies, we are surprised at its lack of stamina, then place a new one
in the same spot. When that one dies, we scratch our heads and wonder why we have
such poor luck with plants. As with humans, there are tests that can be run to help
diagnose problems in the landscape. One that is very effective is a soil test. It
is the first thing that should be done when problems persist in the landscape. The
test analyzes essential components that may cause problems in the soil. It is also
a good indicator of how to correct the problem. Here is what a soil test will show.

Texture. The texture of soil is the percentage of sand, silt and clay. This indicates
whether the soil is heavy in clay or has a high sand content. Knowing the texture
helps determine irrigation needs. It also makes a difference when it comes to selecting
plants and deciding which will grow well in an area and which will not. Lime. The
lime content of soil is the percentage of carbonates. This is not a problem in northern
Utah. We have more than enough lime, and it rarely poses a problem. It is not necessary
to add lime to our soils. pH. The pH is a measurement of the acidity of the soil.
The pH is a scale from 1 to 14, with 1 being extremely acidic and 14 very alkaline
or basic. Most of our soils fall in the range of about 7.5 to 8.5. This is an acceptable
range for most plants. Soil test results may be a little higher or lower than that.
This information can help in choosing a more acidic fertilizer or other options when
amending the soil. Salt. Some soils are high in salt, which can cause plants to be
stunted, thin and susceptible to other problems. Salt levels that are too high do
not allow the plant’s roots to absorb water properly. Not correcting the problem can
lead to perennial problems and frustration. Phosphorus. Most soils in Utah have sufficient
phosphorus, but occasionally they are slightly deficient. A soil test indicates how
much to apply to supplement plant needs in the landscape. There are often more soils
with excess phosphorus than not enough. Knowing that levels are high can be beneficial
so you can discontinue applying it to your soil. Potassium. This is another element
that is normally abundant in our soils. However, it can become deficient, especially
if the topsoil is removed when a new home is built. These are the basic components
that are addressed by a soil test. Knowing the amount of these elements in the soil
will not solve all plant problems, but will provide a good place to start. A basic
soil test kit can be picked up at any Extension office. The kit is free, and the cost
of a routine analysis is $14. It is worth the investment to learn how to solve or
avoid soil problems.

Do you have some advice on how to control mallow weeds? This has been an ongoing problem
that even the powerful herbicides can only contain for just a few weeks. They always
come back and completely overrun my garden. Any advice?

A

As you have discovered, a mature mallow weed is quite tolerant of most yard-and-garden
herbicides, including Roundup and 2,4-D. The herbicides often cause mallow to go yellow,
and some of the plants may die; but many eventually recover to become even tougher
than they were before they were sprayed.You probably also have found that pulling, hoeing or rototilling large mallow plants
is difficult and only partially effective. Then, there is also the problem of mallow
seeds in the soil. Mallow is a prolific seed producer, and its seeds can lay dormant
in the soil for years before germinating. In a typical garden there are thousands
and thousands of mallow seeds already in the soil just waiting for the right time
and conditions to germinate. Whenever those conditions occur, a few new mallow seedlings
will emerge; but the majority of the seeds remain dormant awaiting a future opportunity.Each time it rains or whenever the garden is irrigated, a few more mallow seeds will
germinate. So, even if you were successful in killing all of the emerged mallow plants
with a single herbicide application, a new flush of seedlings would still appear after
each watering or rainfall event for the next several years.The best advice I can give is to be persistent, and to kill or remove mallow plants
when they are small. The strategy is to deplete the soil of its mallow seed supply
by eliminating all emerging mallow plants before they have a chance to make more seeds
and replenish the supply in the soil. Pulling, hoeing or rototilling can be very effective
against small mallow plants. Mallow is also much more sensitive to herbicides when
in the seedling and early vegetative stages (before plants get more than two or three
inches wide).Whichever control method you choose, do it early in the development of the weeds.
That's when they are easiest to control, and it's the only way to deplete the soil
seed supply. It will probably take several years of weeding every couple of weeks
before you see the results of reducing the number of dormant mallow seeds in the soil.
But in the long run, I believe that's the only way to make real progress.

When trimming trees, remember that the tree limbs and branches will stay at the same
height for the entire life of the tree. The growing point for the tree is located
in the top terminal bud, and the rest of the tree will only grow in circumference.
If the branch is four feet off the ground today, it will be four feet off the ground
in 20 years.

You can safely prune most trees through the end of May. Most pruning is done before
the tree leaves out because it is easier to see where to prune and easier to get into
the tree. I recommend pruning them in March and early April.

Do very little pruning on ornamental trees. Prune wood that is dead, diseased or injured
and branches that cross (rub), grow back into the center of the tree or are out of
place. Be sure to keep the natural shape of the tree intact.

Although it is more work, finished, neat edges can make a landscape look polished
and attractive. Lawn areas may look green and lush, but if the edges are uneven or
untrimmed, the whole yard can seem unkempt.

Consider these tips to keep your landscape tidy.

Remove and prevent grass from growing where it cannot be easily reached by a mower.
This helps reduce edging time. Spray a non-selective herbicide such as Round-up or
Finale to kill the grass and weeds around trees, fence posts, walls and rocks. Leave
a large grass-free zone around trees and a smaller strip around rocks, fences and
walls.

Mix a pre-emergent herbicide such as Surflan with Round-up to prevent grass and weeds
from returning. This kills existing weeds and deters germination for a few weeks.

Design the landscaped area so it requires a minimal amount of edging or trimming.
This means trees, shrubs and flowers should not be placed in the lawn, but in separate
planting areas. Surround fences and rocks with some sort of edging material to prevent
weeds and grass from growing up the fence or around the rocks.

Consider the many materials that can be used as an edge around flower and shrub beds.
Cement, redwood binder board, vinyl, rubber, bricks and other materials reduce the
amount of trimming required. There is no perfect edging material, however. Each has
benefits and drawbacks. Thick black rubber edging material holds its shape for many
years, but can be expensive. Cheaper vinyl and plastic products are inexpensive, but
tend to lose their shape over time. Redwood eventually wears out but is attractive
and natural looking for many years. Cement, bricks and other hard materials last for
many years, but can also be costly. Cement edging appears cold in a landscape and
makes it difficult to change the shape of beds. Bricks are usually very moveable,
but can be too mobile at times. Visit your local nursery or home improvement store
to see available options.

A cost-free option to maintain a clean appearance and keep grass in its place is to
cut a 6 inch deep line between the bed and grass with a spade or shovel. A small scoop
shovel leaves the straightest edge. This process needs to be repeated two or three
times a year. Though it is cost free, it creates more regular work than the other
methods.

Color is starting to creep back into our landscapes. Bulbs and a few shrubs are beginning
to blossom, and soon the spring perennials will be blooming. Before long we will be
rushing to the nurseries and garden centers to pick out annuals of every hue and color
to fill empty spaces invading our landscapes. Here are some tips:

Make a plan for what to plant in those vacant spaces. Designing the flower bed before
ever looking at a flower or entering a garden center ensures that the flowers will
fit the design, instead of the other way around.

First thing to do is measure the flower beds. Then, using graph paper draw the beds
to scale. Typically, make one square on the paper equal one square foot. Make drawings
as accurate as possible to the actual shape of the beds; and then make several copies.

Next, use colored pencils or crayons to start the design. Draw in borders and group
plantings, indicating desired colors and mixes. Play around and have fun with the
design. Do not think about what type of flowers, just use the colors and pretend any
color is available. If you don't like the design, you can always grab another copy
and start again.

You do not have to be an artist to design a beautiful flower bed. Any color will look
better than brown. Certain colors will give different effects. Warm colors such as
red, yellow and orange, bring a sunny feeling to a cool shady area. Cooler colors
such as blue, green and violet bring a soothing coolness to a hot patio or walkway.

Complementary colors provide eye-catching, dramatic plantings. Complementary colors
are opposite each other on the color wheel. These might include planting blues with
oranges, purples with yellows, or reds with greens. Some of my favorite designs include
complementary plantings. Purple nierembergia is wonderful planted with the deep yellow
Dahlberg daisies.

Harmonious colors are next to each other on the color wheel. Examples would be combinations
of red with purple or orange, blue with purple or green, yellow with green or orange,
or orange with yellow or red. These plantings are not as vivid but have a more softening
effect. This is why red geraniums look at home surrounded by violet and pink lobelia
or alyssum.

Monochromatic plantings can also be quite attractive. These color schemes use different
flowers in a single color throughout a flower bed. For example, an all-pink garden
might use pink geraniums, petunias, verbena and vinca. The different hues and forms
add interest and appeal.

After determining the colors needed to fill the design, calculate the amount of flowers
by counting the number of squares on the graph paper in any color. Most annuals are
planted on about one-foot centers. I prefer them closer together, so they fill in
quickly and look full the whole summer.

The last step is going to the nursery to buy the flowers in the desired colors, taking
them home and incorporating them into the beds. Try different annuals from year to
year. Try to stay away from the predictable petunias and marigolds as often as possible.
There are many other beautiful annuals with fewer problems and that are in less demand
during the spring planting rush.

Many gardeners have good intentions when it comes to planting bulbs. Each spring,
they renew their commitment to plant bulbs in the fall. But, sometimes the handful
of bulbs that finally gets planted doesn't seem to make much of a difference. It often
seems like it takes a truckload of bulbs to make any impact in the landscape. This
is both expensive and fills up the garage when gardeners forget to plant them. There
are other less expensive options that produce beautiful results. Naturalizing an area
with bulbs is one solution. Naturalizing is creating an area, however large or small,
in the landscape where bulbs are planted in an informal, random pattern. Consider
these tips.

Locate a naturalized site in an area that can remain undisturbed while the bulbs are
growing. It can be as small as a 10 x 10 garden bed, or as large as the entire backyard.
The bulbs planted in this area should increase from year to year. The spot that is
chosen must have good drainage. Wet, water-logged soil reduces bulb growth. Be creative
as you choose a location. Crocus planted in a parking strip can create a beautiful
show each spring as the flowers bloom up through the grass. Of course, the area cannot
be mowed until after the foliage begins to die back. A shrub and tree bed or an informal
perennial bed work well, too. Raised areas or slopes make great naturalizing areas.
The area should also be fairly permanent so the bulbs can remain undisturbed for many
years.

To promote a feeling of nature in the area, plant the bulbs randomly. Be sure to stay
away from rows and patterns. Mother Nature is not known for symmetry. Too often we
think bulbs have to be planted in formal patterns. That works well for large formal
gardens, but most home landscapes are better suited for natural, random plantings
of bulbs and flowers. Throw the bulbs into an area and plant them where they land.
Large groups of similar colors can be planted, but be sure to use variety by mixing
colors, sizes and spacing.

The most common bulbs for naturalizing are daffodils, narcissus and crocus. They come
in a variety of colors and sizes. Others to consider include the drumstick allium
(Allium sphaerocephalon), Asiatic lilies and galanthus (Galanthus nivalis). All naturalize
quite well, are long lived and will add lovely color to the landscape. Muscari can
be used, but it often spreads more than most gardeners want. Tulips can also be used,
but many of the newer varieties die out after a few years of neglect.

When using small bulbs, plant them by paths or sidewalks so they don’t get lost in
the rest of the bulbs. A few can be thrown in with other bulbs, but most need to be
planted randomly in highly visible areas.

If you can only afford a few bulbs each year, start with a small area and gradually
expand in the future. A small spot with lots of color is much more eye-catching than
a large area with a bulb every 10 or 20 feet.

As fall turns to winter, take a leap of faith and plant some bulbs now. Your almost
heavenly reward will come next spring. Visit http://extension.usu.edu/cooperative/aska/
to see other Ask A Specialist columns.

Many trees were planted in Utah this spring. Most trees do a good job taking care
of themselves after planting; however, trees still need care and assistance to ensure
their quality and health.

Consider these tips when caring for newly planted trees.

Water trees thoroughly at planting time, then once a week (adjusted for significant
rain) through the first growing season. Water more often on sandy soils or during
very hot, dry weather. A light sprinkling that only wets the soil surface is not enough.
Water must penetrate 6 to 12 inches to reach most of the tree's roots and to encourage
deep rooting. If irrigation water is limited this summer due to drought, be sure to
give adequate water to your trees or they may decline in health and die. Lawns that
die due to lack of water can be replaced fairly quickly; trees cannot.

Stake newly planted trees that are more than 2 to 4 feet tall if they are at risk
of catching wind. Trees should be staked loosely since some bending is needed for
the trunk to develop naturally. Anything that wraps around the trunk, such as wires
or cords, should be well padded to avoid damage to the tree's bark and outer growing
layers. Stakes should be removed after one or two years. If roots are not well established
by then, it is likely they will not become established at all.

Mulch newly planted trees and established trees. This is one of the best ways to ensure
a tree's health. A 4-foot or larger circle of wood chips, compost, or other coarse
organic mulch 4 inches deep helps control weeds, keeps roots moist, reduces soil compaction,
and keeps the mower away from the tree's trunk. If turf is already established around
the tree, place the mulch directly on the turf. Any grass that is not shaded out by
the mulch can easily be pulled.

Do not fertilize new trees. Fertilization is not necessary for most trees and should
not be done at planting time or for a year or two after planting. If fertilization
is to be done, wait until twig growth has returned to a normal rate. This indicates
that the tree is no longer suffering from transplanting shock. Use a complete, granular
fertilizer spread on the surface under the tree's crown and water it in well. Avoid
using weed-and-feed fertilizer-herbicide combinations around trees since they may
cause damage to trees.

Follow these steps and keep an eye out for insect and disease problems and your new
tree will give you years of enjoyment. For more on tree planting, care and selection
see the web site at extension.usu.edu/coop/natres/forests/index.htm.

Do you have tips for safely removing snow from sidewalks and driveways?

A

Hand injuries, muscle strain, and overexertion are just some of the snow removal injuries
associated with each season’s first major snowfall. As winter arrives and snow blankets
the walkways and driveways, here are some tips to help you remove it.

Dress properly and pay close attention to the cold temperature and how tired you become.
Clothes should be snug fitting and worn in layers. Shoes should be sturdy and provide
traction on icy surfaces. Don’t work to the point of exhaustion and take frequent
rests indoors to warm up.

Snow shoveling, although labor intensive, is the method most commonly used by homeowners.
The shovel does not require an operator’s manual, seldom fails to start, and will
work when other equipment will not. Lightweight, aluminum shovels work best and surface
conditioners such as Teflon, silicon, or wax can be used to prevent snow buildup on
the shovel surface. A typical snow shovels holds lots of snow, but partially filling
the shovel rather than heaping it full will reduce strain on muscles and joints.

Powered snow removal equipment can seriously injure people and animals, and cause
damage to property from flying debris. The equipment produces toxic exhaust fumes
and operates on fuel that presents a fire and explosion hazard.. Eye protection is
also important and wear hearing protection if the engine noise is excessive or the
equipment will be operated for long periods of time.

Please remember the following guidelines for safe snow removal with a snowblower.
Review the snow blower operating manual and put the equipment where it can be easily
accessed. Inexperience is a frequent cause of accidents. Check the fuel and oil, and
make sure the engine will easily start and stop. Know how to quickly stop the snow
throwing or blowing unit and shut the engine off if a problem arises. Do not operate
snow removal equipment when it is dark or visibility is poor.

Newer models are equipped with improved safety features and increased engine horsepower
for better snow removal and reduced clogging. Snow blowers and throwers sold today
have a lever that must be engaged by the operator for the equipment to operate. If
the lever is released the drive train is disengaged and snow discharge stops. This
safety feature has the advantage of stopping the machine if you lose control of the
power unit for any reason.

Clear the areas where snow will be removed of yard debris, sticks, rocks, water hoses,
extension cords, toys, and such. Snow removal equipment can throw snow 20 feet or
more and solid objects such as rocks or ice chunks may travel three times that distance.

Accidents and injuries occur most often when a hand or other object is inserted in
the discharge chute and comes in contact with the turning blades of the blower/thrower
unit. If the capacity of a snow blower/thrower is exceeded by wet, heavy snow, the
discharge chute will clog. The high-speed augers, blades, and/or paddles are slowed
and can become plugged. Don’t overload the equipment. If snow is heavy, go more slowly
and remove a narrower strip of snow with each pass. Avoid overloading the machine
and keep the discharge unit turning at high-speed.

If the discharge unit becomes clogged, resist the temptation to reach into or place
an object such as a stick in the discharge chute. Turn the engine off and disconnect
the sparkplug wire or electrical power. Use a wooden dowel or plastic rod to remove
snow. Under no circumstances place your hand inside the discharge chute to remove
the blockage. Even with the engine turned off, the discharge unit may spin when clogged
snow is dislodged.

When operating snow blowers and throwers direct the snow discharge chute away from
people, animals, windows, vehicles and other property that may be damaged by flying
debris. Be careful when turning because the direction of snow discharge will change.

Travel up and down the face of slopes, rather than across the slope when removing
snow from inclined surfaces. A slope that rises more that three feet with each ten
feet of horizontal travel is too steep for traditional snow removing equipment. Take
special care when changing directions on sloped surfaces. It is very easy to loose
control of a snow blower or thrower when it is leaning to the left or right.

Under windy conditions, start on the upwind side of the area to be cleared and throw
the snow with the wind. The wind will help disperse the snow and prevent it from settling
on cleared areas.

When removing snow from a gravel driveway, set the blades an inch or more above the
gravel to reduce the likelihood that gravel will launch through the discharge chute.

Electric snow blowers have an electric motor that can also cause injury and electricity
has the added hazard of electrocution. If the electric cord becomes caught in the
machine, severe shock or electrocution can result. Begin snow removal close to the
outlet and continue outward to minimize the chance of running over the power cord.

Young children should not be allowed to operate power equipment. Age, maturity, and
physical ability should be considered when permitting older children to operate this
equipment. Young people should be closely supervised.

Take care when refueling snow blowers and throwers. Keep gasoline powered equipment
and fuel away from flames, sparks or excessive heat. Store fuel in a ventilated area.
Allow the engine to cool before refueling and fill fuel tanks outdoors. If you would
like learn more about snow removal equipment, try the local dealers or the Internet
site http://www.whatsthebestsnowblower.com/access.shtml.

First discovered in the country of Tanzania, African violets are native to eastern
Africa. A baron from Germany spotted the delicate flowers and sent them back to his
native country for research. For the first few years they were only grown in botanical
gardens and conservatories. It wasn't until 1926 that they were introduced to the
commercial industry in the United States.

Since introduction, African violets have become one of the most popular house plants
grown in this country. They have been crossed, radiated and mutated to develop new
colors and flower shapes. About the only colors African violets are not available
in are yellow, orange and a vivid red. African violets can be touchy about their surroundings
and growth requirements but, if given proper care, will bloom and look attractive
most of the year. Here are some tips:

Start with a potting soil mix that drains well. Some nurseries sell potting mixes
specifically formulated for African violets. When creating your own soil mix, be sure
it drains well and is not easily waterlogged.

and has drainage holes in the bottom. Sometimes African violets are planted in pots
with large drainage holes, but the pot is then placed in a colorful aluminum foil
liner that nullifies the ability of the pot to drain. These plants die quickly from
root rot.

insect or disease. Check the top inch of the soil. If it is still moist, the plants
do not need to be watered. Once the top inch of soil dries, water thoroughly, allowing
the water to drain out the bottom of the pot.

African violets bloom best when crowded. The leaves should hang above the soil but
not touch the edge of the pot where salts collect that can injure the plant. If leaf
stems lay across a wet rim of the flower pot, they may rot. To prevent this, cover
the rim with paraffin or aluminum foil.

African violets do best in bright, indirect light. Place them in a room that receives
about 12 to 15 hours of light a day. A room with a southern exposure is best, or one
with large windows facing east or west. If fluorescent lighting is used to supplement
sunlight, be sure to provide a minimum of 15 hours of light a day. The lights should
be placed within 6 to 12 inches of the plant.

African violets prefer daytime temperatures around 70 degrees, and cooler nights of
about 65 degrees. The higher the humidity the better. Utah is not known for its high
humidity, so this may need to be supplemented by using a humidifier or a humidifying
tray.

Fertilize plants with a product specifically designed for African violets. Apply it
monthly from spring through fall. Let the plants slow their growth during the winter
by reducing the amount of fertilizer. If minerals from fertilizing accumulate on the
soil surface, water heavily to flush the soil, allowing them to drain well, or repot.

Only a few pests bother African violets. However, the leaves and flowers should be
inspected periodically for any visible signs of insects or damage. Remove dead flowers
when they begin to droop.

A landscape that gives a home or building the best chance for surviving a wildfire
is one that provides a defensible space. Fires need fuel, oxygen and heat to burn.
Defensible space landscapes are low in fuel and help keep fire away from the structure
so that firefighters have a chance to defend it. Consider these tips in providing
a defensible space landscape for your home:

Cut tall grass near structures. A fire in dry grass burns quickly and is very difficult
to control.

Create a 30-foot zone around your home that contains only well-managed, firewise plants.

Examples of firewise plants include mowed and irrigated turf, moist perennials such
as irises and daylilies, and a few well-pruned and maintained, widely-spaced broadleaved
trees and shrubs. All plants and trees will burn if a fire is severe enough, but some
are more fire prone than others. Conifers such as pines and spruces tend to be fairly
flammable, while many broadleaved trees are more fire resistant.

Remove all trees and shrubs from within 10 feet of homes and buildings. Dense brush
burns quickly and can act as a ladder for low flames to reach into larger trees or
homes.

Maintain a fuel break of low-growing plants 30 to 70 feet away from homes and buildings
on larger lots. Fuel breaks act as a buffer between the manicured landscape near the
home and adjacent property. This becomes especially important in a severe fire. Houses
located high on steep slopes need wide, clear spaces to protect them from fires burning
uphill. Local wind conditions may also warrant more widely-cleared areas.

Rake leaves and twigs from under trees and shrubs to reduce fuel loads. Tree litter
that accumulates on roofs and in gutters should also be removed regularly. Litter
accumulated on lower branches of trees and shrubs should be removed as well as litter
in adjacent wildland areas if possible. Litter should then be placed in an approved
landfill.

Thin dense tree groups. Though the grouping of trees is a commonlyused landscaping
technique, it can be hazardous in fire-prone areas. Thinning these groups will slow
the spread of fire.

Remove firewood and other combustible materials from areas around buildings. Firewood
should be stored on the outside edge of your defensible space.

Make sure firefighters can reach all parts of your property. Place fences, trees and
retaining walls so they don't restrict firefighting equipment access.

Cooperate with neighbors to provide large defensible spaces. In areas where lot sizes
are small and homes are close, neighbors should work especially hard to have firewise
landscaping. If you properly maintain your lot but your neighbor's overgrown lot is
only 10 feet from your house, none of your preparations will keep your structure safe.
If there are many neighbors who aren't being cautious, ordinances or restrictive covenants
may be necessary for everyone's protection.

Check your landscape on a monthly basis and attend to problems before they become
serious hazards.

These techniques will not guarantee complete fire safety; however, firewise landscaping
can greatly increase a home's chances of survival if a fire occurs. A list of firewise
plants is available at your USU County Extension office or on the Web site at extension.usu.edu/publica/natrpub2.htm.

During the current drought cycle, grasshoppers have become a common occurrence in
the home yard. There are hundreds of species of grasshoppers in North America, but
only a few of them cause economic damage to plants. The short-horned or Acridid grasshoppers
are the primary culprits. The slant-faced grasshoppers (angled faces, long, thin bodies)
feed primarily on grasses; spur-throated grasshoppers (projection under their throat)
feed primarily on herbaceous plants; and banded-winged grasshoppers (brightly colored
hind wings that rattle when they fly) feed on both grasses and herbaceous plants.

Most problems occur in home yards when large populations of grasshoppers migrate from
surrounding open fields, range and other less disturbed grasshopper egg-laying sites.
Eggs are laid in undisturbed ground in the summer and fall, then over-winter. Eggs
hatch the following spring, and emerging young (nymphs) feed on green vegetation.
When field vegetation begins to dry, large flushes of grasshoppers migrate and overrun
nearby succulent landscapes and gardens. The best way to combat grasshoppers in these
circumstances is to work with neighbors to coordinate treatment. Consider these tips.

A number of insecticide choices are available to kill grasshoppers. They include acephate
(Orthene), azadirachtin (Neem), bifenthrin (Talstar), carbaryl (Sevin), cyfluthrin
(Tempo), diazinon, malathion, permethrin (Astro) and pyrethrin. Most of these are
not labeled for food crops, so be sure to read and follow label directions carefully.

Two biological insecticides are effective on grasshoppers. Beauveria bassiana is an
insect-attacking fungus. Nosema locustae is a protozoan that, upon ingestion and sporulation
in the gut, infects fat tissues of the grasshopper. Nosema is slower acting than conventional
insecticides and can take 4-6 weeks to kill grasshoppers.

Grasshoppers are easier to kill in their early nymphal stages. Older nymphs and adults
are the most voracious feeders and cause the main injury to plants. If grasshoppers
move to your property from surrounding land, place a 6-8 foot band of bait around
the property border and into the adjacent field. Do this in late spring to early summer
when populations of small nymphs begin to increase. To maintain active insecticide,
re-treat every two to three weeks while grasshopper populations are increasing (during
egg hatch), and especially following heavy irrigation or rain.

Other management strategies include spot or target spraying nymphs when they are seen
feeding in the yard, or treating adjacent vacant lots or fields that have nymph infestations.

Remember that not all grasshoppers will cause harm and low numbers can be tolerated.
Most insecticides are not selective (Nosema locustae is an exception), and beneficial
insects and spiders will be killed as well as pests. For effective grasshopper suppression,
it is important to start early when grasshoppers are small and to maintain control
until eggs have hatched and new waves of nymphs are no longer detected. Once flying
adults are on the scene, it is too late for effective control that year.

For more information, visit http://extension.usu.edu/insect/fs/grassho3.htm to view
“Grasshoppers in Utah: General Biology” by Edward W. Evans or visit

http://extension.usu.edu/insect/fs/grasshop.htm to see “Grasshoppers and their Control,”
by Alan H. Roe.

Research shows that the better the treatment a tree receives at planting, the better
its chances of living a long, healthy life. It is true that trees are tough and can
survive a great deal of mistreatment. However, a poorly planted tree may survive a
year or two or even longer, then slowly die as a result of poor planting practices.
This may be hard for gardeners to believe, since many tend to think that if a tree
has lived for a couple of weeks, the planting job must have been successful. Mike
Kuhns, Utah State University Extension Forestry Specialist, has said, Why put a $100
tree in a $1 hole?" Consider these planting tips to maximize the financial and aesthetic
value of your trees.

Dig wide. The recommendation for planting is to dig the hole two to three times as
wide as the root ball. For example, if the root ball is 24 inches wide, the hole should
be 48 to 72 inches across. This guideline stems from the fact that most tree roots
grow in the top 6 to 18 inches of soil. A wider hole gives the roots a larger area
to grow into as well as more area for collecting water and nutrients.

Don t dig too deep. Many years ago, people thought the deeper the hole, the better.
Trees planted this way simply sunk into the soft soil and died a slow death. Tree
roots grow where the water and nutrients are located, which is normally in the top
layers of soil. Because of this, it is important to give the roots ample room to grow
out, not down. Do not dig the hole deeper than the height of the root ball. This means
once the tree is planted, the soil level should be where the roots begin to flare
out of the trunk. The soil level should be the same as it was when in the pot or on
the ball when burlapped.

Be careful when placing the tree. Once the hole is dug, lower the tree into the hole.
Carefully remove the pot or packing material, disrupting the roots as little as possible.
Pack the soil around the ball of roots as the material is removed. After the tree
is securely in the hole, water it thoroughly.

Backfill with native soil. The roots will eventually need to grow into the native
soil, so fill the hole with the soil that was removed when it was initially dug. Mix
compost or other organic matter into the native soil before backfilling to help the
roots get established. A good ratio is 70 percent native soil to 30 percent organic
material.

Do not over-water. One common problem with newly transplanted trees is over-watering.
Remember that tree roots need oxygen as much as they need water. Build a moat around
the tree where water can be applied. This will help keep water off the trunk. Water
the tree only after the top three to five inches of soil has dried. Although it may
seem reasonable to keep the soil wet all the time, this actually pushes oxygen away
from the roots, killing the tree faster than if it had been under-watered.

Plant now. Fall is a great time to plant a tree in the landscape. Cooler weather reduces
the stress on a newly planted tree, allowing it time to get established before rain
and snow comes this winter.

Yes. The USU Extension office supplies “soil test kits” which include a labeled shipping
container, a plastic bag for the sample and an order sheet with sample collection
instructions. Take a representative sample, fill out the form, enclose a check (there
is a small fee for the basic analysis), and send the package to the USU Analytical
Labs in Logan, UT. Results and recommendations are sent directly to you within two
weeks.

Does it help to aerate in the spring and fall? Also if there is a lot of dead grass
and thatch build up would it be beneficial to power rake in the spring?

A

Aerating in the spring and/or fall can be very beneficial in compacted areas or areas
with excessive amounts of thatch. Aerating enhances the movement of air and water
though the soil and improves conditions for plant roots.

As for your thatch question, how much thatch is there? As much as 0.5 inches is fine.
If you are working with a home lawn, I would not recommend power raking except in
cases of EXTREME thatch buildup (i.e. 2 inches or more). Power raking is actually
quite stressful for the grass since large amounts of healthy roots are also pulled
up. If you feel that some action is necessary, I would recommend aerating in spring
and fall with a core aerator as a start.

Due to the dry season, the weeds are overtaking our lawn. Besides watering, is there
a weed killer I can apply when it is so hot? Is there a fertilizer or food that would
help it?

A

The most common broadleaf weed herbicide contains 2,4-D, which can volatilize and
drift to nearby plants and damage them when temperatures are hot. There are a few
other herbicides, but most are effective when temperatures are not so intense. I would
recommend that you hand-pull weeds in areas of greatest concern, and try to prevent
seed set in the others. Weeds are often a function of watering practice. If your
lawn is in good health and you water properly, weeds are much more easily controlled.
Water lawns only as often as absolutely necessary. By allowing the top one inch of
soil to dry between irrigation, you are killing any weed seeds that are sprouting
immediately after the irrigation.

Train the Turfgrass to grow deeper roots by wetting the soil at least 8 inches deep
every time you irrigate. (Test it by digging a hole and looking at the soil or by
poking a long screwdriver down into the lawn - when you meet resistance, that is where
dry soil begins). Thatch buildup creates a good place for weeds to germinate, because
this spongy layer between grass blades and the soil retains water longer than soil
would. If thatch is thicker than one-half inch, core aerate this fall or late summer
(once hot temperatures subside). Too much nitrogen fertilization can lead to thatch
buildup, because grass is growing faster than the clippings and dead roots can decompose.

Also, don't forget to raise the mower deck so that the soil surface is more shaded
(this will discourage weed growth there). And, taller grass plants grow deeper roots,
so you can go even longer between irrigations (thus allowing the soil surface and/or
thatch layer to dry out and kill weed seed that may be germinating). Review the USU
Extension publication "Basic Turfgrass Care" and follow the maintenance guidelines
therein. You can download that publication at http://extension.usu.edu/files/gardpubs/hg517.pdf

You can shop for a weed control that doesn't have an temperature limits - be sure
to identify the weeds you want to control, read the herbicide label carefully and
follow all label directions.

How and when can I transplant small, 6-12 inch and medium, 5 ft joshua trees? The
latter is more important at this point since it would be a shame to lose it.

A

The only recommendations I could find about transplanting Joshua trees are for Arizona,
so just move up the dates (our growing season is much shorter here than there). Take
a look:http://www.arizonacactussales.com/tips/joshua.htmI know Joshua trees can survive here in the Salt Lake Valley, but try to avoid low
areas where cold air can pool - those are frost pockets. The root system you dig
up to transplant will be fairly shallow. You must support the trees with stakes at
least one year so that they won't fall over.

The smaller plant has a better chance at surviving, since the tall plant will have
much higher water demands and relatively fewer roots. Be sure to give the plants extra
irrigation this fall and next spring until the root systems can regenerate. But, don't
keep the soil too moist or the roots will rot.

Many people enjoy watching hummingbirds zip through their gardens. The trick to keeping
them in the garden is to grow plants that provide the food they need. They are not
picky eaters, so a number of attractive plants can provide portions of a meal for
them. The majority of their diet consists of flower nectar, which they supplement
with small insects.

Hummingbirds feed from morning until dusk. This provides them the energy that keeps
them in constant motion. They consume as much as half their body weight in one day.
In order to eat this much, they must move quickly and visit as many plants as possible.

Red and orange flowers are the preferred target of most hummingbirds, especially if
the flowers are trumpet-shaped. A number of annuals fit this bill, including nicotiana,
annual phlox, nasturtium and zinnia. Nicotiana and annual phlox are taller flowers
which are recommended because the birds can spot them easily. Consider these additional
flowers to attract hummingbirds:

Tall perennials that attract hummingbirds include hollyhocks (Alcea rosea), delphinium
(Delphinium), foxglove (Digitalis), red-hot poker (Kniphofia), Maltese cross (Lychnis)
and cardinal flower (Lobelia). The cardinal flower, the Maltese cross and the red-hot
poker are nice additions to the garden because they bloom later in the year. Hummingbirds
are attracted to the orange flowers on Lion’s tail (Leonotis). The plant grows anywhere
from 2- to 6-feet tall, and produces clusters of flowers every 6- to 10-inches along
the upright stem. Hummingbird fuchsia (Zauschneria) blooms around the middle of July,
and continues to produce flowers into late fall. It is loaded with orange flowers
and is great for trailing over a rock or from a planter. Low-growing perennials that
attract hummingbirds include columbine (Aquilegia), coral bells (Heuchera), lupine
(Lupinus) and bee balm (Monarda). Monarda grows between 1 ½-to 3-feet tall, can be
covered with attractive crimson to pink flowers and also attracts bees. A number of
vines also attract hummingbirds. Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is probably the
most noted. This vine is easy to grow in most locations with the proper support. It
has attractive orange flowers and is reminiscent of flowers found in an old-fashioned,
grandmother’s garden. Another vine with orange flowers is the trumpet-creeper (Campsis
radicans). This plant can be somewhat aggressive, but with proper care makes a nice
addition to a hummingbird garden.

Shrubs can also entice hummingbirds into an area. Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus), shrub
honeysuckle (Lonicera), beautybush (Kolkwitzia), butterfly bush (Buddleia) and weigela
(Weigela) all have attractive flowers. These shrubs work best when placed in the background
or used as an informal hedge or border around a garden. Selecting these plants for
your garden does not guarantee hummingbirds will make your yard a favorite outdoor
dining destination. Even so, you will enjoy the benefits of attractive, bright flowers
in the landscape.

Despite what the snow-covered peaks might indicate, we do not have as much water as
those who live in most other states. Without supplemental water, many of our non native
plants and turf grasses would dry up and die.

In water short years, here are some tips for conservation:

Automated sprinkler systems make watering convenient for most gardeners. Once we figure
out the electronic puzzle, we can become Mother Nature, controlling the elements within
our own realm. What we sometimes forget is that we are not as wise as Mother Nature
so we neglect checking the watering system to make sure it is in harmony with our
plants. Few plants, other than water lilies and a few bog plants, actually enjoy being
watered every day.

Contrary to popular belief, grass is not a bog plant. Grass actually does best with
extended periods between watering. Many lawns in our area are still flood irrigated
once a week, and they look great.

It is true that when a lawn is first established and the roots are shallow, it needs
constant attention and moisture. However, as the grass begins to grow the roots stretch
further into the soil, eventually reaching depths of more than 10 inches. Sometimes
plants have to be trained to grow deeper roots by slowly extending the period of time
between watering from one day to two, and then three, etc. Roots develop wherever
they find water and nutrients. Watering every day doesn't encourage the roots to stretch
and grow because the water is always available right at the surface. Then, if the
water is cut off for a day, the plants begin showing signs of drying. Unfortunately
our first response is to turn on the hose and try to revive what we think is dying
grass.

The best response is to let the lawn struggle a little to grow. The best time to do
this is in the spring. As the weather warms, instead of increasing the frequency of
watering, increase the amount of water applied when watering. The grass will not die,
but will become healthier as the roots extend into the soil.

and die if not watered on a constant basis. Lawns in sandy soil can still go three
or four days between watering, but the roots need to be trained to adapt. There are
lawns in sandy soil that are flood irrigated once every week and they look great.
It just depends on how well you train the lawn.

After watering once, go out and check to determine how deeply the water is penetrating.
Grab a long screw driver and push it into the lawn. It will easily slide through wet
soil, but will stop and become difficult to push once it hits dry ground. Mark this
spot on the screw driver with your finger and pull it out. Measure the depth it extended
into the soil. This indicates the level water is penetrating the soil.

Each year, hospital emergency rooms treat more than 60,000 individuals with lawn care-related
injuries. A majority of the injuries occur in young people under the age of 16 and
are primarily attributed to unsafe practices rather than equipment malfunctions.

Safety guidelines recommend that children under the age of 12 not operate power equipment.
A person's body size, strength, coordination, experience and maturity affect his or
her ability to safely operate a lawnmower. To improve the safety of mowing equipment
for young people as well as adults, consider the following tips.

Review the operator's manual and the manufacturer's recommendations for safe operation.
Perform regular maintenance on your mower as outlined in the operator's manual. Prior
to using your mower, check for worn or loose tires, belts, guards and covers. The
mower blade(s) should be sharpened periodically to improve quality of cut and maintain
operating efficiency.

Always wear safety glasses, snug fitting clothes, long pants and work shoes when mowing.
In some instances hearing protection is also necessary. Mower shields and guards must
remain in place and operational for personal protection. Know how to turn off the
lawnmower in an emergency. Never bypass safety kill switches or levers or disable
controls that stop blade rotation. Older mowers without safety equipment should be
replaced with newer models with modern safety features.

Do not place hands or other objects in the discharge chute or under the deck while
mower is operating. Remove objects and debris from the area prior to mowing. Objects
such as rocks, stumps and sticks easily become dangerous projectiles. If a mower has
an open discharge chute, direct it away from people, animals or fragile property since
injuries from objects launched by mower blades account for many accidents. Do not
operate mowing equipment around children.

Never leave a running mower unattended. Larger commercial mowers sometimes allow the
mowing blade to be disengaged while the engine is running. If operating this type
of mower, take special care when removing the bag to empty clippings or when performing
other activities near the mower when the engine is running.

Accidents frequently occur when mowers are operated on inclines with wet, slippery
grass. To avoid this, wait until the grass on the incline is dry, then mow across
the slope with a walk-behind mower or up and down the slope with a riding mower. Never
allow passengers on riding mowers.

Do not use the self-propelling power of a mower to transport it over a gravel road
or other debris-covered surface. Disengage the blade or turn the mower off and push
it rather than mowing over a dangerous surface.

Allow fuel-powered mowers to cool before adding fuel or working on the engine. Do
not add fuel while the mower is running and do not mow or add fuel while smoking.
When turning power equipment off, allow all rotating parts to stop before attempting
repair or adjustment. Always remove the spark plug before attempting repairs or blade
adjustment on gasoline powered equipment. If using an AC electric powered mower, mow
when the grass is dry to reduce the chance of electrical shock. Also take special
care to prevent mowing over electrical power cords.

As with all power tools, do not hurry when operating. People who mow at excessive
speeds are risking injury and death. Work cautiously to protect yourself and others.
For additional information related to lawnmower safety and equipment, visit http://users.1st.net/mkw94/safety.htm,
http://www.shrinershq.org/Prevention/mower6-98.html or http://www.whatsthebest-lawnmower.com/safety.shtml.

Pears are best when they are ripened off the tree (except Asian varieties). Fruit
left on the tree will not have a good flavor or texture. Pick fruit when it is mature,
hard and green, or cut it open and see if the seeds are turning from white to brown/black,
if they are it is time to harvest them and allow them to finish ripening off the tree.
To harvest pears lift up the fruit gently (do not twist or pull), if the stem does
not separate easily from the branch, allow the fruit to remain on the tree a few more
days. Winter varieties usually need about six weeks of cold storage before they are
ripe.

Spring Yard Care

Q

Do you have tips on early spring lawn and yard care?

A

In early spring, you can reduce the tangle of weeds that appear in your yard, prune
your trees, reduce garden pests and help your lawn become healthy and green. Proper
care of your lawn in the spring will help promote a healthy landscape throughout the
year. Consider these tips.

Core aeration, where small plugs are removed from the soil, has proven to be more
beneficial to turf than power raking, which was a common yard care technique several
years ago. Aerating allows better air, water and fertilizer penetration into the soil.
It also helps reduce the thatch layer and minimizes compaction that produces unhealthy
roots. It can be done any time the ground is free from snow. Heavily used areas and
clay soils may need to be aerated twice a year, once in the spring and again in the
fall. Normal soil types and use areas are usually fine with one aeration in the spring,
and sandy soils only need it every two years.

If a fall fertilizer was applied last year, the grass may not need it again until
mid or late- May. If there was no fall application, a fertilizer high in nitrogen
can be applied now. Consider using a slow release fertilizer, such as sulfur-coated
urea. These fertilizers are more expensive, but only need to be applied every two
to three months to keep the lawn looking green and lush.

You can begin mowing your grass as soon as it starts to grow, leaving it between 2
1/2 to 3 inches tall. You should begin watering when the lawn looks dry or begins
to show early symptoms of water stress.

Weeds, such as spurge, crabgrass and foxtail, are common in July and August and should
be controlled in the spring since they are nearly impossible to remove midsummer.
Weeds germinate and are small in the spring so they go unnoticed. Nip them in the
bud by applying a pre-emergent such as Galleria, Halt or Dacthal to the lawn now and
then again in early June. These products must be applied before the weeds begin to
germinate since they kill the young germinating annuals, not the established weeds.

Cleaning up debris around the yard and garden will help keep pests under control.
They love to hide under old dead plant material and organic matter. Controlling the
first generation of most insects greatly reduces their number throughout the summer.
A clean garden eliminates a breeding area or a place for insects to gather.

Control broadleaf weeds in early May with a broadleaf weed killer. These weeds include
dandelions, clover, black medic and chickweed. They need to be treated before the
weather warms to above 85 degrees.

When trimming ornamental and shade trees, remember that the tree limbs and branches
will stay at the same height for the entire life of the tree. The growing point for
the tree is located in the top terminal bud, and the rest of the tree will only grow
in circumference. If the branch is four feet off the ground today, it will be four
feet off the ground in 20 years.

You can safely prune most trees through the end of May. Most pruning is done before
the tree leafs out because it is easier to see where to prune and easier to get into
the tree. I recommend pruning in March and early April.

Do very little pruning on ornamental trees. Prune wood that is dead, diseased or injured
and branches that cross (rub), grow back into the center of the tree or are out of
place. Be sure to keep the natural shape of the tree intact.

The true answer is: you don't. But you can slow it down and manage it.

Field bindweed, often called morning glory, is indeed enjoying the hot summer we are
having this year. It is just the edge it needs to compete more effectively against
the cool season grass lawns most of us grow. As with any weed management, irrigation
practices are important, although less so with this weed, since it grows from roots.
But it also produces seed which can germinate and grow quickly in the right situation.

Water lawns only as often as absolutely necessary. By allowing the top one inch of
soil to dry between irrigation, you are killing any weed seeds that are sprouting
immediately after the irrigation. Train the Turfgrass to grow deeper roots by wetting
the soil at least 8 inches deep every time you irrigate. Test it by digging a hole
and looking at the soil or by poking a long screwdriver down into the lawn - the dry
soil begins when you meet resistance. Thatch buildup creates a good place for weeds
to germinate, because this spongy layer between grass blades and the soil retains
water longer than soil would. If thatch is thicker than one-half inch, core aerate
this fall or late summer (once hot temperatures subside). Too much nitrogen fertilization
can lead to thatch buildup, because grass is growing faster than the clippings and
dead roots can decompose. Also, don't forget to raise the mower deck so that the soil
surface is more shaded, this will discourage weed growth there. Taller grass plants
grow deeper roots, so you can go even longer between irrigations thus allowing the
soil surface and/or thatch layer to dry out and kill weed seed that may be germinating.

Review the USU Extension publication "Basic Turfgrass Care" and make sure that your
lawn care company is following the maintenance guidelines therein. You can download
that publication at

When temperatures are cool enough (80 daytime max), and bindweed is in the lawn, you
can spray it with an herbicide containing 2,4-D. You cannot spray these weedkillers
while temperatures reach above 80 for one or two days after spraying, because the
chemical will volatilize and float over to nearby plants and damage them. In areas
where there aren’t any other desired plants, you can spray bindweed with a broad spectrum
herbicide containing glyphosate (like Roundup).http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html

Bindweed is really loving our hot weather, because our Kentucky bluegrass is heat
stressed and not competing well. A vigorous, healthy lawn can usually out-compete
bindweed. Three to four inches of mulch over soil will keep bindweed under control,
too.

Maggie Wolf

Utah State University Extension

Horticulture and Technology Agent

This weed is correctly called field bindweed. It is a very difficult and persistent
problem. The plant propagates by seed and underground rhizomes. Early “weeding”
of young plants reduces and sometimes eliminates their growth. However, established
plants with a deep root system are extremely hard to control and a broadleaf weed
killer should be applied during the blooming season or in the fall after the first
frost. Recommendation: Grow a vigorous lawn to compete against bindweed, or apply mulch
3 inches deep over it. Occasionally pull sprouts or spot-treat with perennial-rate
glyphosate.

How often should I use the mulching blade in my mower? Is every time I mow OK?

A

Mulching blades may be used every time you mow as long as the lawn is not allowed
to get too long between mowings. In the spring, when the grass is rapidly growing,
you will need to mow more frequently or bag or rake the clippings. When the grass
becomes high or you try to cut off too much at one time, the mulch blade cannot do
its job. Later in the summer when it is hot and the grass slows down, it is not a
problem.

I have been searching for a Globe Maple (globosum) for my landscape. I can't find
this tree anywhere and I am quite desperate and would appreciate any help you could
give me in locating one.

A

There are several different maple species with cultivars called "Globosum." They include
Norway Maple, Red Maple, and Sugar Maple. If you are in Utah, the tree you want is:
Acer platanoides "Globosum" (Norway Maple variety Globosum). If you can't find it
in stock, you should be able to go to any full-service nursery and ask them to order
one for you."

Last October we purchased three 7-foot pine trees from a nursery. We planted them
successfully in our yard. I just noticed this weekend that some of the branches towards
the bottom look like they're dying (turning color, appear to be drying out). Is this
normal after winter? Or would it be a sign that the trees haven't received enough
water during the winter?

A

It depends on which needles are dying. If it is the older needles (those closer to
the center of the tree) you are probably okay. If the young needles near the tips
of the branches are dying, then there is most likely a problem. At this point, I would
recommend that you wait until spring and see if there is healthy new growth from the
tips. It is not uncommon to have some stress during transplanting, but if you get
good new growth you should be okay. Conifers can dry out during the winter, and it
is hard to say without knowing your local conditions. In general most pines should
be okay unless we get a cold, windy winter with little precipitation.

What can you tell me about Turtle Grass--value, strengths, weaknesses, how and where
to plant, etc?

A

Turtle Grass is fairly new to us here in southern Utah. There are some pros and cons.
It requires less water and fertilizer to maintain good color. However, It does not
appear to be as durable (doesn't repair itself well )as bluegrass or tall fescue,
so it would not be a good choice for a backyard, for example, where children would
be playing. USDA researchers indicate that it would probably do well in an arid climate
but, in places of high humidity it may not have good disease tolerance.It is something we hope to do a little testing with here in the future. Turtle Grass
sod is fairly expensive (almost double the price of regular sod).

Will the Prairie cultivar of Buffalo grass do well in the Grantsville (Tooele County)
area? If not, which grass would be best for a new home? My goal is to conserve water
and minimize the number of mowings each summer. Also would you recommed Meyer Zoysia
grass for this area?

A

The cultivars that you noted are not the best for this area. The winter may kill the
Prairie cultivar of Buffalo grass. A better choice would be 609 or Legacy. 609 will
remain green longer than Legacy and you would water them normally about every 10 to
14 days during the hot part of the summer. They both will brown earlier in the fall
than Kentucky Blue and stay brown longer in the spring than Kentucky Blue. Zoysia
grass of any kind is not recommended for this climate. They are warm season grasses
and do not do well here.