Coolibah Relief Wing Bowl

This Coolibah was a real challenge. Heavily off-balance, it wanted to jump off the lathe! I decided to execute a very sharp direction change by creating a cup inside the bowl. It really shows off a different grain structure at the transition, which is what I was hoping to achieve with it. I had a gallery visitor ask me what I would “do” with it (like put dip in the middle, perhaps?). I laughed and said (more or less), “I just enjoy it as art. I don’t really want it to be ‘good’ for anything necessarily, but the collector can pretty do as he or she pleases with a piece like this.”

-- patience is a virtue ... in woodworking, cooking, and life in general

To Jerry (cabinetmaster). Here are the basic steps I use to turn a “wing” bowl from a burl cap. 1. I make sure the flat surface is flat enough to mount either a faceplate or faceplate ring with not rocking at all. The ring is becomming my favorite approach. Saves time re-mounting the chuck. I use a 5” rotary grinder with 60 grit paper to flatten the face.2. I find the high spot on the “dome” and make this (more or less) the center of the piece, unless there is a reason not to (that is the “art part” I guess). I mount the ring using this center.3. Once I mount the piece on the lathe, I remove the spikes from the back of the blank. I once stalled my lathe on one of these spikes, and they are scary as all get-out. Needle-sharp, very hard, and lots of them, all invisible as they spin. So, I started using the grinder to remove them. It’s fast, safe, and far less punishing than a gouge. I figure one mistake with these spikes could easily cost me a finger or even a hand.4. I turn the back of the bowl to a shape I like, taking the wings into consideration. I also turn and finish the dovetail center to reverse mount the piece. The back is very challenging, because the cut is almost always interrupted, and I leave the natural spikes at the very edge. Still a bit scary! Keeps me focused!5. After re-mounting, I turn and finish the inside. I find that many species have lots of fissures in the grain, and tearout is a bit of a challenge. So, these pieces typically require a lot of sanding. I really like wave-disks mounted on a drill for the sanding.6. I usually finish with lots of coats of a wiping tung-oil varnish, then two buffing steps (using the Beall system) and finally carnauba wax buff. I have never tried any sort of stain or dye. Its just not necessary and would interfere with the natural beauty of the burl (In my humble opinion)

There you have it! I look forward to seeing you try it sometime!

-- patience is a virtue ... in woodworking, cooking, and life in general