I don't think eBay will do that on the Nelsonic Sexum. Over the past 3 years, I've seen 4 on there for sell. As I recall, all 4 sellers made some real good money! I know I made bids on 3 of those listings and did not come close to winning.

Oh, that was you bidding against me! I wanted just the Sexum!- they are still quite highly prized by certain folks There have been quite a few on Ebay over the last few months (there is at least one at the moment if you look, carefully). What sort of thing could tempt you to part with it?

You're not the only pcs member I was bidding against sorry to have sniped you tom, especialy as I'm going to be asking for some advice on a troublesome 942.711 pretty soon, I'm waiting on another members trade options at the moment and there's another one after him so that makes you 2nd reserve tom, as for my tastes, I like em old,ugly,heavy,and simple-ish(no sniggering at the back) mid to late 70s is my favourite era for watches. wook

quote: Originally posted by wookey: Hi It was a seiko 6139-6002, I really wanted the bracelet as it was the much rarer type, sadly when it turned up it was 2 links short of a comfortable fit, but the watch runs so It was still worth the 20 odd pounds I paid for the pair. wookey Hey wookey, Ah, the 6139-6002 that's a very nice watch, i have a 6139-7000 myself, the so called "helmet". Do you have the "pepsi" bezel and yellow dail on yours? , i really love that one.

Hi The numbers on seiko case backs generaly work like this caliber(module)first eg. 0634-5001 would mean module number 0634, the numbers after the "-" are the case number, first 3 digits 500, and the last digit 1 tells you which market the watch was originaly intended for like America, japan, europe etc.etc. hope this helps wook

The bit about the last one/two digits telling you which market the watch was intended for are an urban myth! I have price lists (and a few Seiko Time stock holding computer printouts) showing that many so called American, European and Oceanic market watches were available from stock in other Countries. Now Seiko did have models that were intended for specific Countries (usually the split was for models intended of America/Europe and Asia/Oceania), but there is no specific differentiator on...

quote: Originally posted by wookey: Hi The numbers on seiko case backs generaly work like this caliber(module)first eg. 0634-5001 would mean module number 0634, the numbers after the "-" are the case number, first 3 digits 500, and the last digit 1 tells you which market the watch was originaly intended for like America, japan, europe etc.etc. hope this helps wook Can anyone confirm this? Perhaps many of you remember my disagreement with Dell Deaton regarding the Moonraker Seiko. I used to...

quote: Originally posted by Old Tom: The bit about the last one/two digits telling you which market the watch was intended for are an urban myth! I have price lists (and a few Seiko Time stock holding computer printouts) showing that many so called American, European and Oceanic market watches were available from stock in other Countries. Now Seiko did have models that were intended for specific Countries (usually the split was for models intended of America/Europe and Asia/Oceania), but...

How can this be true, just found 1 seller in singapore ebay, sold for $75 U.S.D Link: http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/CAS...b701bf#ht_2811wt_907 Waiting for the 1k seller to receive feedback and see where this guys from.

quote: Originally posted by Old Tom: The bit about the last one/two digits telling you which market the watch was intended for are an urban myth! I have price lists (and a few Seiko Time stock holding computer printouts) showing that many so called American, European and Oceanic market watches were available from stock in other Countries. Now Seiko did have models that were intended for specific Countries (usually the split was for models intended of America/Europe and Asia/Oceania), but...

Aha- the dreaded Bond watch saga revisited. The FX003 (retail code) M354-5010-61A and the FX005 M354-5019-61A are identical in all but back plate (both have the same m354-5010-9992 front plate under the crystal). Both were equally available in the UK. There are quite a lot of other examples of "identical" models having been available pre-1980, again only differing in the back plate. So why? I suspect the answer lies in the serial number whch is always 6 digits on the digitals. First two used...

quote: Originally posted by Old Tom: Aha- the dreaded Bond watch saga revisited. The FX003 (retail code) M354-5010-61A and the FX005 M354-5019-61A are identical in all but back plate (both have the same m354-5010-9992 front plate under the crystal). Both were equally available in the UK. There are quite a lot of other examples of "identical" models having been available pre-1980, again only differing in the back plate. So why? I suspect the answer lies in the serial number whch is always 6...

quote: Originally posted by Old Tom: Aha- the dreaded Bond watch saga revisited. The FX003 (retail code) M354-5010-61A and the FX005 M354-5019-61A are identical in all but back plate (both have the same m354-5010-9992 front plate under the crystal). Both were equally available in the UK. There are quite a lot of other examples of "identical" models having been available pre-1980, again only differing in the back plate. So why? I suspect the answer lies in the serial number whch is always 6...

BT Remember I asked you the same question about the H357-5040 and H357-5049 I have a number of them here and cant find any difference at all except sometimes(and only sometimes) they have H357-5060 on the fascia panel. So am I right in assuming they are also the same watch just produced in high production months where the production exceeds more than 10000? Adam

I think there may be more to it than just high production months, how many seiko digitals case numbers end in a 2 or 3 or 5 or 6 or 8 ? these numbers are very common end digits for seiko mechanicals as well as 9 and 0, I've read on a another forum that Ikuo Tokunaga has confirmed that "0" was Japan and "9" North America, also why would seiko change from 7 digit serials to 6 digit serials, surely someone would have twigged at seiko about the 10000 limitation? all very hard to fathom especialy...

My Tuna is 9D0039. I bought it case only, but that came from the USA. Im sticking with the theory that 9 is from the USA. and 0 is elsewhere. Its also a theory shared by several other Seiko heads I know that are far deeper into collecting than I will ever be - This I found out only recently. Interesting! USA is so big it makes sense for it to have its own system

That would fit 9 being for north america which would include canada hence some "9s" having english/french day wheels, has anybody ever seen a seiko with a japanese kanji day wheel without a zero at the end of the case number?

Ok, I gave Old Tom's explanation some thoughts. Let's assume for a minute, that we are responsible for running Seikos factories and their numbering system. We have some hot selling items, which are selling so fast, that the 6-digits numbering-system is not enough to represent the monthly production figures. Even if I would decide to "create" a new case code (such as 5019 as the 5010 is selling so well), I don't see a reason to change the official retail code then as well! So, if everything...

quote: Fish En Time was released 1992 I think Ok adam ,i thought it was from the end of the 80's, still have a lot to learn about casio's quote: the "unscratched crystal" from the Fish en Time I think..... Yes 11je12je you are right, how could i have missed that ,i have to read the text better next time. I think that this is what Data is referring to?

I learn the same as every body else does SC. Listening to others. Theres no way Casio took another two years to release the Fish en time could they? Its got to be at least 1990 hasnt it. Does anybody know for certain? The only certain proof now is the date they decided on the name. I wonder when it first went into the catalogue? Adam No shame in being knocked down as long as you always get straight back up!

quote: Originally posted by Seiko Collector: Data, what do you mean? Yes, the first link is not a 70's casio, but a relatively new one, but what's up with the second link? It could be me but i don't get it ,enlighten us please I think that the crystal is scratched - and it looks in not very good condition to me

Just like to add that I have now sourced a cracking A201 from Ebay Brazil. The module is clean, and the case is good/mint with the back showing several scratches, but not deep. The Brazil serial number places it older than mine, and they are about 1700 away from each other I have put my original A201 with my daughters things now.

quote: Originally posted by data: quote: Originally posted by Seiko Collector: Data, what do you mean? Yes, the first link is not a 70's casio, but a relatively new one, but what's up with the second link? It could be me but i don't get it ,enlighten us please I think that the crystal is scratched - and it looks in not very good condition to me Yeah, you are right about that data, i get the point now

Could it just be stuck because of dirt? When i look at this page here: http://www.network54.com/Forum...t%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B It doesn't look like it is screwed or bolted in the case. Maybe someone else has more information?

Oh, it's very possible that it's because of dirt - I really don't know...but it's jammed in there, and I don't want to get TOO enthusiastic, and end up with lots of little module bits. I might have to take the screws out so that the battery part comes out and see if there's some way to get the rest out of there. Just never want to hear **snap** - then you know you've got nothing.

I have used this method to push the liquid crystal back out to the outside edges where it normally resides. I never put it in the freezer though. It can be done successfully on certain models and these I find are the older 70's LCD's. Havent really tried it on casios and its only normally viable when there is a little bleed. You effectively squeeze the centre of the LCD with your thumb and index finger and roll them in the path of the bleed. Massaging without moving you fingers the bleed to...

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