50 Helpful Tips & Tricks For A Faster Hot Rod - Mo' Go Fo' No Dough

Yes, dear readers, we've assembled 50 helpful tips and tricks designed to help you go faster, stay out of trouble longer, and generally increase the enjoyment you'll get from working on your favorite hot rod. The thing to remember is that it doesn't take a fistful of yen to be a hot rodder. It's a state of mind, dig? Read on, and we're sure you'll find many useful bits that'll fan the flames in your cross-bolted, grease-caked hearts.

Drum RollIf your primary bag is drag racing and your car is equipped with drum brakes, think twice before swapping to discs. While superior in many ways, disc brakes are heavier and cursed with drag, even when the pedal is fully released-which creates heat and diminishes your elapsed time. If you have drum brakes, adjust them at the track for zero drag-remember not to use them while in Reverse or the self-adjusters will take up the slack and put you back to square one. Although most people associate this tip with front drum brakes and older musclecars, it works just as well on rear drum brakes.

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Wristpin WipeoutWhile it's true that thin-wall wristpins decrease the mass at the top of the connecting rods and lessen the harmful effects of "toss loads," it is possible to go too far. When wristpins with extremely thin walls are employed in a high-stress environment (nitrous oxide super/turbocharging or severe detonation), they are apt to flex as they cycle. Even if they never actually break, a flexing pin takes its toll on related components-cracked pin-bore bosses and bronze-bushed small ends beaten out of round. Eventually something will give way, but in most cases, the fault is never traced to the too-thin pins.

Traction Trade-offDrag slicks offer supple sidewalls, soft rubber compound, and width combined with low inflation pressure to create a tire with a whole lot of rolling resistance. But on the other hand, these attributes allow them to stick the car to the track. To limit the compromise, choose a tire that will spin just a tiny amount under full power. You get all of the traction benefits off the line without paying too high a price at the top end. And if your stocker is not capable of spinning its stock radials, like the Slant Six Plymouth shown here, don't use slicks at all.

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Less Is MoreMany hot rodders cram their motors with the stiffest valvesprings they can find. High valvespring pressure generates inordinate friction, which eats horsepower and accelerates wear on the cam, lifters, pushrod tips, and rocker arms. Additionally, loading on the camshaft, cam bearings, timing chain, valvespring retainers, and locks increases as well. Utilize valvesprings that produce the minimum amount of pressure to get the job done at your engine's maximum operating speed. Consult your favorite camshaft manufacturer for the springs best suited to your needs.

Treadless TractionModern musclecars are born with great tires... if cornering and braking are your primary needs. But all that high-tech tread design and rubber compound results in a surface that tends to squirm when you drop the hammer on dragstrip launch. As the tires go up in smoke, they are actually approaching the perfect state for maximum traction because the shallower tread surface plants more rubber and resists squirm under load. Showroom stock road racers shave the tread on new tires for this same reason. Experiment with inflation to get the best results, but be ready to bump to as much as 40 psi because a radial tire-tread carcass tends to cup in the center when inflation is low. Your worn Gatorbacks will never cause a wheelstand, but they do hook best late in life.

Footprint FinderTo know exactly what the contact patch between your tires and the road looks like, raise the tire off the ground with a floor jack. Then clean a portion of the tread and paint the tread area with a thick, black-ink felt-tip marker. Rotate the tire so the inked tread is at the bottom, and put a large piece of white paper beneath it. Lower the car slowly until its full weight is on the paper. Then raise the car, and retrieve your tire's "footprint." By studying the print you can ascertain worn or maladjusted front suspension parts by an asymmetrical tread pattern. At the rear of the car, you will see clearly that width isn't everything when it comes to slicks, and overall diameter also acts to increase the area of the contact patch.

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Hole Saw SalvationIf you need to cut a hole in a painted metal panel but don't want to mar the surface, apply several strips of masking tape to the area before getting busy with the hole saw. The tape will prevent scratches from errant chips and will help maintain the integrity of the paint where the saw breaks through. Remember though, if you stick tape to a cheapie paint job and then pull it off, you might end up taking the paint with it. Proceed with caution.

Belts Be GoneThis strip-only tip really helps cars with low-power motors. Remove the accessory drivebelts to free up the power otherwise consumed by the alternator, water pump, power-steering pump, A/C, and so on. On a bone-stock six-cylinder car, this change is worth between 7/10 and 11/10th seconds! Of course, you'll want to make sure the battery is fully charged to ensure ignition effi-ciency, and without the water pump in operation, you'll need to push the car through the staging lanes, and run the motor as little as possible to keep it cool. After the pass, simply reinstall the belts to charge the battery and circulate the coolant-before yanking them for the next round.

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Runaway InflationEver try to push a car with a flat tire? Apply this logic to tire inflation pressures at the dragstrip, and you'll understand the value of overinflating your front tires to reduce drag. While some racers put as much as 50 psi in their tires, we advise staying within 7 to 10 pounds of the manufacturer's recommendations for safety's sake. For those wishing to further maximize efficiency at the track, reduce rolling resistance by replacing heavyweight radial street tires with tall, thin-ply tires. The increased diameter requires fewer revolutions, and it lengthens rollout for better starting-line performance, plus the lightweight construction requires less horsepower to set into motion.

Cat Got Your E.T.?Elderly catalytic converters, especially ones that have never been replaced, can cause a significant amount of backpressure. At the track, this power-robbing nuisance can be quickly and efficiently eliminated by uncorking your exhaust upstream of the converter. Most cars have a flanged joint just before the coupling between the head pipe(s) and converter(s) that can be opened simply by removing one of the two pinch bolts and swinging the cat out of the way. Tighten the remaining bolt, and the pipes will stay put for racing. Most effective on stock vehicles, this trick can chop a few tenths off your e.t.

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Splitting AirsIf ever there was a Hall of Shame for misused and/or poorly chosen speed equipment, the air shock would surely be a charter member. We've all seen air shocks used as a cure for dead springs, often inflated to the max so that the fluorescent-green axlehousing is visible from outer space. Air-shock misuse has done more to tarnish the image of hot rodding than "The Fonz" and Ralph Nader combined. Separate air-line kits elevate air shocks from drive-in goober status to vital traction tuning aid. With this arrangement, you can jack weight from side to side to compensate for uneven traction conditions. The most helpful arrangement typically pairs an air shock with the right-rear tire, while a standard heavy-duty shock with 50/50 valving is used on the left.

Honker Pedal BluesYou'd be surprised how many cars are running around with poorly adjusted throttle linkage/cables. To ensure you are getting all your motor has to offer, have someone floor the accelerator (motor NOT running), and see if the linkage rotates the throttle shafts against their stops. If it doesn't, eliminate the slack by adjusting the cable or linkage while avoiding an over-center condition where the return spring can't close the throttle safely. If you prepare for the job in advance with all the necessary tools in hand, you will only have to floor the gas once, thereby limiting the amount of raw fuel on the cylinder walls upon start-up.

Offset For CompressionOne path to higher compression is tricking the connecting rods into thinking they are longer than they actually are. This can be accomplished by installing custom offset bushings in the small end. A bushing offset of 0.030 inch has the same net effect on compression ratio as removing 0.060 inch from the head or deck. For use only with full-floating piston pins, offset bushings are an inexpensive alternative to machine work or custom pistons. In a small-chambered wedge application, this could mean as much as a full-point increase in CR; the larger the chamber, the less the impact. Also, offset rod bushings provide more piston-to-valve clearance than milling the cylinder head. Any high-performance machine shop can work out the details for you.

A Question Of BalancerIf your engine throws its fan belt and you are sure that a misaligned alternator isn't at fault, make certain that the harmonic balancer is seated correctly on the crankshaft snout. Apply high-pressure lubricant to all slip surfaces, and use an extra-long bolt and hardened washer to initiate the seating of the balancer. Once the long bolt has seated the balancer to a point where the shorter stock bolt engages by at least a half-inch, remove it, and install the stock bolt-with a drop of thread-locking compound-to pull it all the way down. Never use a hammer to install the balancer. Use a breaker bar at the flywheel to keep the crank from turning during the final tightening phase.

Manifold MaladyIf your V-8 seems to be using more oil than usual, fouling plugs, puffing blue smoke, or suffering from heavy detonation under load, you may mistakenly assume that it's time for an expensive rebuild. Before hitting up Pops for a loan, check the intake-manifold bolts for tightness. Loose bolts allow vacuum leaks, which can suck oil from the lifter valley into the intake ports, causing one or all of the symptoms above. Be aware that paper or composite intake-manifold gaskets tend to erode quickly under these circumstances and may need replacement; steel gaskets usually reseal once proper torque values are restored.

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Toilet TalkBoy, are we scraping. No, actually, we're scrubbing. That's right, a toilet-bowl scrubber is the perfect tool for cleaning out the ends of axlehousings where years of accumulated crud usually resides, safe from removal attempts by ham-fisted hot rodders. Spray some engine degreaser on the brush, and have at it. Hot tip: To avoid domestic strife, buy a new toilet brush to use just for this job.

Getting The Brush OffTo clean up after a wash and wax session, get a new paint brush, and cut the bristles so that they are somewhat shorter and stiffer. This is an ideal tool for removing dried wax residue from beneath name badges, chrome trim, window surrounds, virtually anywhere a fingertip or cotton swab cannot reach. If you anticipate using the brush near vulnerable surfaces, wrap the metal parts of the brush with duct tape to prevent scratches.

A Point Of ConcernIf you're still a breaker-point ignition diehard, then you know about premature wear of the contact-point rubbing blocks if you don't lubricate them whenever you install fresh points. But it is possible to apply too much lubricant, which will spatter onto the points and cause arcing and early failure. Coat the distributor cam surface evenly with a thin film of lube, and your points will reward you with trouble-free operation. Now you gotta do something about that six-volt charging system!

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Don't Screw UpMounting screws stay more secure in holes that are punched rather than drilled. The thread pitch of most sheetmetal screws is designed to work best within the malleable confines of a punched hole. Their threads will pull up and tighten against the forced metal rather than floundering loosely in a cleanly drilled hole. If the metal is too thick to punch through initially, use a small drill bit to establish a hole that can be enlarged with a punch.

Caught In The CrossfireWhenever voltage is applied to a spark-plug cable, the magnetic field it generates travels outward from the core. If an adjacent cable is close enough and parallel to the cable carrying the juice, the second cable may absorb enough induced voltage to fire both plugs simultaneously. This phenomenon is quite likely to occur with aged parts store replacement wires, which lack the dielectric insulation capabilities of quality aftermarket and OE cables. The panacea for crossfiring is to separate the cables as much as possible. Never allow them to run parallel for more than an inch or two. When cables must cross, route them at an angle.

Cool Limited SlipA cooling fan is only necessary at sub-cruising speeds, when there is insufficient airflow through the grille opening to carry heat away from the radiator. Once you hit the open road, the fan becomes a parasite. A clutch fan will free up the lost power. A temperature-sensitive viscous coupling freewheels at high engine speed with virtually no impact on power output. Although available new from the aftermarket, salvage yards are packed with these beauties. Look under the hood of most any '70s or '80s rear-wheel-drive car. If you don't mix vehicle makes, adaptability is pretty straightforward. Be sure to check for adequate fan-to-radiator clearance (1-inch minimum) before you twist the key.

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Charge Hue UpStatic electricity is omnipresent, but the last place you'll want it is in a spray booth during the application of fresh paint. To prevent a static-charge differential, attach a length of metal chain to the frame of the car, and let it contact the floor to reduce the amount of particulate matter that settles on the metal during the paint process.

Lifter Bore WarAs you strip down that vet-eran engine in anticipation of a rebuild, you may find that it is impossible to remove the lifters by civilized means. After millions of cycles, the outside diameter of the lifter expands where it contacts the lobe of the camshaft. If you grab those stubborn puppies with locking pliers and rip 'em out, the lifter bores take a beating, which can come back to haunt you later. Before removing the cam, pull up gently on each lifter until it sticks. Remove the cam, and then use a wooden dowel to drive the lifters down and out the bottom of the block.

10/25

Converter ConfusionThough this may seem like a complete no-brainer, you'd be surprised how many hot rodders forget to install the torque converter during "final" assembly. This omission usually occurs in the wee hours when we rush or when distractions overwhelm clear thinking. When you raise the transmission from beneath the car, no one notices that the new converter is still in the box under the workbench. To avoid this, make sure your work area is clean, organized, and that the assembly process is planned out beforehand. For maximum concentration, some people even turn off the radio and stop drinking beer.

Tape Worm"Honey, the labor pains are getting worse. I think its time." If you have just stripped a metal panel in preparation for paintwork, those are the words you don't want to hear. To protect bare metal from rust that's already beginning to form, cover the area with masking tape. If it turns out to be quintuplets and you are going to be away from the project for a long period, spray a coat of primer over the masking tape. After the kids are out of college, remove the tape, wipe off the adhesive residue with enamel reducer, and get back to work.

11/25

Crossover CancellationMost OEM and aftermarket intake manifolds are equipped with exhaust-heat crossover passages to aid fuel vaporization in cold conditions. While this system makes winter driving easier, most of us use our high-performance cars when it's warm and dry. To avoid the reduced fuel-charge density caused by the circulation of hot exhaust gasses beneath the carburetor, block the flow with thin 0.020-inch steel shims between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. For easier assembly, use sealant to stick the shims to the gaskets, and make the shims large enough to fully cover the heat crossover passages but no larger. Some high-performance gasket sets are already equipped with heat block-off provisions.

Think Before You DrillAvoid cussing and nasty repair work by planning before you drill. In this photo, we had to mount a MAP sensor to the firewall during an EFI conversion. Of course, we misjudged the length of the wiring harness, so the first and second locations were all wrong. By the time we realized our mistake, we'd drilled four holes in the firewall. The only proper fix was to strip the paint from the surrounding area, weld the holes shut, grind the area, and then repaint. Duh!

Too Much Of A Good ThingBecause carburetors are generally designed to operate beneath an air cleaner, they are calibrated for undisturbed air intake. Many hot rodders mistakenly assume it's OK to bypass the cleaner and force air directly into the carburetor with a ram-air setup. At high vehicle speed, the rammed air entering the carburetor usually upsets fuel metering and reduces performance. While forced air is a proven performance enhancement, you must provide some means of baffling the incoming flow so that it blows into the carburetor's air horn, not across it.

Wear Pattern TipIf you are using aftermarket roller-rocker arms with nonstock ratios and are curious about whether they are properly centered over the valve-stem tips, try this handy little test. Turn the motor over by hand until the valve is closed, and insert a strip of construction paper between the rocker tip and the valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft until the valve is closed again. Remove the paper. What you want to see is a wear pattern that concentrates over the middle of the valve stem rather than one that favors either edge. If the pattern needs some tweaking, use adjustable-length pushrods to tailor the contact area.

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Kinder, Gentler WrenchesTo protect newly painted, polished, or plated nuts and bolts during reassembly, and prevent nicks and scratches that will later turn to rust, apply masking tape to your wrench end. Generally, the tape covering will remain intact long enough to tighten several fasteners, but check it frequently. Similarly, you can protect chrome wheel fasteners from harm by putting a heavy-duty plastic sandwich bag between socket and nut.

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Primed for ActionOil is the engine's blood. Fail to prime the oiling system of a freshly assembled engine and you risk premature wear upon initial start-up. An aftermarket priming tool, or a length of 3/8-inch hex stock driven by a drill motor, will ensure the flow of lubricant to all critical areas. Don't stop there. Turn the motor over by hand a half-revolution as you prime, and do this three or four times during the priming operation. Also, be sure to turn the oil pump in the same direction as distributor rotation. If more than a day elapses between priming and initial start-up, repeat the entire prelube process.

Keep It Cool, EthylThe radiator cap is an important, though often neglected, part of an efficient cooling system. It allows pressurization to occur in the system, which raises the boiling point of the coolant. With a greater difference between the coolant and the outside air, heat passes from the coolant faster. The following table illustrates the point.

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Pressure

Boiling Point of Water

(psi)

(Degrees Fahrenheit)

0

212

4

224

7

233

9

239

15

257

If your car runs hot, use a radiator cap with a higher blow-off valve; higher pressure quickly exposes structural weakness within the radiator, so make sure everything is up to snuff beforehand.

Rattle Yer BoltsFasteners that link the torque converter or clutch components with the crankshaft require more than factory torque specs to keep the assembly intact. Vibration is the enemy. Each power pulse jolts the fasteners, and when you introduce a little detonation to the mix, the heads of the bolts begin bouncing, and the friction that keeps them stretched (and tight) dissipates. The flexplate shown here is just beginning to exhibit signs of damage. The slight elongation of the hole and chaffed area was caused by a loose bolt that allowed the torque converter to chatter. To avoid this, apply a small amount of thread-locking compound to all related fasteners before torquing them to specification.

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Pass The CupAs your old cam worked, the end of the pushrod and the cup in the rocker arm got to be pretty good friends. But as soon as you substitute a cam with a different amount of lift, the pushrod/rocker-arm wear pattern is reestablished. The new cam relocates the load generated by the valvetrain and concentrates it in the worn (thinner) area of the rocker-arm pushrod cup. The pushrod will eventually break through the metal, especially if stiffer springs are used. New rocker arms eliminate this problem.

Crank CallsHere's an easy way to distinguish a forged crankshaft from a nodular cast-iron one. Insulate the crank from the floor with a folded rag, and then gently tap a counterweight with a small hammer. If it rings clearly, odds are that it is forged steel. If the hammer makes a dull thud, the crank is probably nodular iron. You can also use the hammer trick to determine if the crank is cracked. If you're in the outback and have no hammer, the crankshaft parting line (lo-cated on the unmachined portion of the counterweight) will also provide metallurgic status. A thin line indicates a casting; a thick line identifies a forging.

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Go Low For FlowElectric fuel pumps mounted outside of the tank are designed to push fuel through the lines. If you locate the pump higher than the level of the fuel tank, the pump must pull fuel up from the tank before sending it to the engine. Although the pump will function in this misapplication, efficiency suffers. When the pump is mounted lower than the fuel tank, gravity ensures a constant supply of gasoline to self-prime the pump.

Gimme A BrakeThis tip is for backyard rodders who don't have air tools at their disposal. For differential disassembly, save some grief by loosening the pinion nut before removing the assembly from the car. If you wait until the housing is out of the car, it will be very difficult to keep the yoke from turning. To avoid such consternation, first remove the driveshaft, and then have a helper stand on the brake pedal while you break the pinion nut loose. If you do this solo, place a cut-to-length 2x4-with protective towels on each end-between the pedal and the steering wheel to activate the brakes while you get busy under the car.

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The Scrape TestPushrods designed for engines equipped with pushrod guideplates are heat-treated or carburized to prevent undue wear. On the other hand, engines that do not incorporate guideplates do not require hardened pushrods. A quick way to determine whether metal parts have been heat-treated is to gently scrape the surface with a flat-tipped screwdriver. If there is no mark, the part is hardened and is safe to use in a guideplate-style motor.

Ring SaverYou can save wear and tear on the piston rings by not including them during the various stages of engine assembly. To make sure that the piston fits squarely in the hole during preassembly, wrap a layer of masking tape around the ring land. Once done, you can slowly rotate the crank without dislodging the tape and causing a mess. Of course, the piston must be free of oil or the tape won't stick. Once it is time for final assembly, remove the tape and all adhesive residue with acetone.

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Rust BusterCamshaft and crankshaft journals are extremely vulnerable to rust. Their unprotected surfaces sweat with changes in temperature and humidity and can begin to rust even when stored indoors. Coat all machined surfaces with wheel-bearing grease and spray a rust preventative on non-machined surfaces. In case of the inevitable, light surface rust is easily removed by the polishing affected areas with 600-grit sandpaper.

Diary Of A MadmanIf you are building a car or make regular changes to your combination, you should keep a diary of your progress. As good as our "neck top" computers are, we quickly forget the little things and usually end up paying for it down the line. A multisubject notebook is good for recording important part numbers, unfinished project reminders, before-after performance data, costs and totals, important names and phone numbers, or any other item worth remembering. It helps if you date and number each page, so you can cross reference and locate info quickly. As we all know, hot-rodding projects always take longer than forever, so go for the throat with a deluxe 150-page, three-subject, college-ruled jobbie, and you'll have all the room you need.

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Just Too CoolIt is quite possible to overcool your oil. High-viscosity racing oils require a temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit to flow properly. To measure oil temperature, locate a sensor between the cooler and the engine-when thoroughly warm, the oil temp should be between 180 and 240 degrees. If you are using more than one oil cooler, connect them in parallel by placing a tee in the oil line so that the fluid passes in and out of both coolers simultaneously.

Grind The SliderWe all know that heat causes expansion. On cars equipped with slider-type disc brakes, heat expansion can actually cause the brake-pad backing plates to expand enough to impede retraction of the pads when the brake pedal is released. Such "growth" doesn't pose a safety problem, but the drag between the pads and rotors can result in slightly less effective braking force. The cure is simple: Grind approximately 0.010 inch from the brake-pad backing plate surface (see arrows). The added clearance will accommodate plenty of expansion without binding.

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Fuelish FolliesBy its appearance, one might assume that a fuel filter poses a restriction to flow. Taking that assumption to the next level, one might remove said filter thinking that the engine will get more fuel and make more power. The truth is, you must never run an engine without one. A properly selected fuel filter has absolutely no impact on power output.

All's Well That Oils WellMost bearing failure begins with oil-pressure loss due to starvation-the uncovered oil pump picks up air while the car is leaving the starting line or negotiating turns at racing speeds. This starvation may go unnoticed or appear as a momentary fluctuation of the oil-pressure gauge. Good gauge response begins with a minimum 1/8-inch-diameter oil feed line made of copper, rather than nylon-the latter type is easily pinched by the ferrule during installation, which affects the ability of the needle to react to changes in pressure.

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A filter housed in a plastic body sustains damage more easily than metal types. Secondly, fuel pressure dictates filter type: Carbureted engines can use traditional small filters, while engines equipped with EFI must use specific, high-capacity types. In any case, use two of them, one between the fuel tank and the pump and another between the pump and the engine.

Power TransfusionMany top dyno operators and race tuners say that you can get the most power from an engine by running it to normal operating temperature, then draining the hot coolant. Fill the engine with cool (not cold) water, dump it, pour the hot water back in, start the engine, and you'll have more power. Noted header and camshaft guru Jere Stahl claims to have seen blow-by reductions and a power increase during full-throttle testing for as long as 30 to 45 seconds after the transfusion-quite enough time for a dyno pull or drag race.

22/25

Drilling For OilHave you heard the one about the guy who installed an aftermarket floor shift in his automatic transmission? On the test drive, he smelled burning transmission fluid. When he looked underneath, he discovered ATF leaking on the smoking headers. In his haste to finish the shifter install, he drilled through the carpeted floor and right into the tranny case. Luckily, our man didn't hit any bands or drive shells, and he was able to repair the leaky hole with epoxy. The moral of this story is: Read the instructions, and use a short drill bit.

Thermal ExpansionSeveral internal (operating) dimensions change as the temperature inside the engine increases. One of the most critical is the valve lash of a mechanical-lifter camshaft. With iron heads and block, the lash will generally gain 0.002 inch of clearance; add aluminum heads, and the lash will increase by 0.004 inch. On an all-aluminum engine, cold-to-hot valve lash jumps by roughly 0.006 inch. By using these guidelines and setting cold valves slightly tighter, you will limit unnecessary lash and lessen premature valvetrain wear.

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Time Has Come TodayOh no, the water pump is leaking. Instead of dreading the replacement job, consider it an opportunity to clean and reestablish the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and the timing cover. Use solvent to remove the sludge, then fill the timing marks with white paint, and wipe away any excess. The next time you set the ignition timing, the timing light will immediately pick out the numbers and make the job much easier.

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Corrosion Of ConformityThough once considered exotic, aluminum cylinder heads and intake manifolds have become yesterday's news. Lest we forget, when those alloy goodies take to an iron block, the dissimilar metals create a small electrical charge that will eventually erode the aluminum if municipal tap water is used in the cooling system. To avoid this, use deionized water instead. The lack of ionic strength will eliminate the ability of the water to conduct electric-ity and cause the corrosion. If you can't find deionized water, most supermarket purified or distilled water is made through that process. Check the label for the phrase "purified through deionization."