Ten years ago, if you wanted to live in a town on the edge of a mountainous wilderness, surrounded by people prepared to let you be whoever you wanted, you moved to Boulder, Colorado. Everyone did, and property prices became unaffordable. Now you raise your eyes a little further north, and keep your wagon rolling on up to Missoula, Montana, a town about as isolated as the most voracious reader of Henry David Thoreau could hope for.