DINING BRIEFS

By OLIVER SCHWANER-ALBRIGHT

Published: May 7, 2008

The JakeWalk is a counterpoint to Manhattan's conspicuously chic enotecas, less a wine bar than a friendly neighborhood bar with over 200 wines.

There's a wait for the candlelit tables at night, when the flocked wallpaper, the only nod to d?r, takes on a muted glow. But during sunnier hours a small after-work, before-date crowd makes conversation with the bartender and picks its way through the by-the-glass list, where choices are obscure, appealing and priced reasonably in the $5 to $13 range.

The bar is the offspring of Smith & Vine (a wine shop) and Stinky Bklyn (a cheese shop), so dairy gets equal billing. Cheeses are $4; the only two hot dishes offer it melted: raclette ($7), and the daily fondue ($14), delicious if prone to clumping. It's possible to cobble together a meatier meal, like country p? ($8) or succulent duck rillette ($7). Either is more pleasing than the cloying foie gras ($17).

More welcome is the sweet fresh ricotta ($4), a generous scoop served with honey or preserves. The airy confection is from Salvatore Bklyn, a Smith Street local made good: the ricotta is also on the menu at Per Se. -- OLIVER SCHWANER-ALBRIGHT

PHOTO: . . . OR SIPS: The JakeWalk, a bar with wines in Carroll Gardens. (PHOTOGRAPH BY JULIEN JOURDES FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES)