An architect by training, with degrees from Columbia University's Graduate School of Architecture and the University of Maryland, Doug Fanning's love of metalwork began while taking welding classes as an undergraduate. After spending years doing design at a number of architecture firms in New York, in 2001 Fanning set out to reconnect with his passion for metalwork by opening DYAD in Red Hook, Brooklyn. There, he designs and fabricates metal furniture, lighting and large installations for clients from Diesel Jeans to ReMAX. He created this café table while designing a customer's back porch. The table's stainless steel contrasts well with the abundance of cedar used in the patio. You can see more of Fanning's work at his website.

More From Popular Mechanics

Step 1: Lay Out the Tabletop

Lay out the 1½ x ½-inch 16-gauge tubing with 8-inch-long ½ x ¼-inch solid steel spacers in between. Make sure to align the spacers evenly to give the tabletop a consistent look. Also, to cut down on material needed, use shorter steel tubes toward the edge.

Step 2: Weld Spacers and Tubing

Clamp the spacers to one side of a single tube, then tack-weld three spacers into place. Attach the spacers to another tube and continue forming the tabletop one tube at a time. Keep it square by aligning one end of the tubes with a couple of straight edges. Only weld on what will become the underside of the table to preserve the tabletop's clean appearance.

Step 3: Weight the Table as You Weld

As the tabletop begins to take shape, place heavy, flat-bottomed weights on the finished side. Welding just one side with no weights on the opposite end could cause the table to warp from the metal heating and cooling.

Step 4: Create a Tabletop Template

With a compass, draw a circle with a 15-inch radius on a sheet of paper, then align the template's center point with the table's center. Use a light spray adhesive to attach the template to the top, then clamp the table to the work surface to prepare to cut.

Step 5: Cut the Tabletop

Fanning preaches patience when cutting out the tabletop—using his band saw, it took him about two to three hours (and as many bimetal blades) to go all the way around. The space between the tubes will act as relief cuts while sawing, but it's still important to move slowly to prevent the blade from binding. While cutting, hold the band saw at a slight angle so the top will slightly overhang the underside. Once the top is cut out, clean up the edge with 80- to 100-grit sandpaper.

Step 6: Build the Base

Use a chop saw to miter cut both ends of a 2 x 1-inch 16-gauge steel tube so the top side is 24 inches long. Then stitch-weld 3-inch miter-cut pieces of tubing onto each end to create the table's feet. Take two more pieces of 2 x 1-inch tubing and miter cut each of them so they're 11½ inches long. Add the 3-inch feet to them and then stitch-weld those two legs to the long leg to make an X.

Step 7: Make the Post and Attach It to the Base

Clamp two of the 25-inch-long 1½ x 1½-inch angles to make a T-shaped piece. Weld them together on the top of the T and then repeat the step with two more 25-inch angles. Clamp the two T shapes together and weld them at the top and bottom of the post. Position the post on the center of the base, then weld the two pieces together.

Step 8: Attach Supports to the Post

Take an 11-inch-long angle piece and align it with the top of the post, then scribe on the support where the two angle pieces overlap. Remove a notch from the 11-inch piece. Repeat this three more times and then attach each of the notched angle pieces to the top of the post, welding all the way around to ensure maximum stability. Then cut the ends of the supports at an angle.

Step 9: Attach the Top

Place the table on the post; with a weight on top of it push the two pieces snugly together. When Fanning made the table, he left the paper on to help align the top to the support, then peeled it away and started to tack parts together.

Step 10: Invert the Table and Finish Attaching

Step 11: Clean Up Welds

Using 120-grit sandpaper on an angle grinder fitted with an abrasive wheel, go over visible welds, especially the miter cuts on the base. Then further refine the seams with an emery cloth. For long-term care, Fanning suggests wiping the table lightly with Scotch Brite scour pads to remove any dirt. Finish with a stainless-steel cleaner, such as you'd use on kitchen appliances, to maintain its luster.