Fall 1995 wasn’t Tom Ford’s first runway show for Gucci, but it was the season he really arrived. The jewel-tone satin shirts unbuttoned to there . . . the velvet hip-huggers . . . the horsebit leather loafers with the race car finish . . . Paraded down a spotlighted Milan runway by the likes of Amber Valletta,Shalom Harlow, and Kate Moss, Ford’s seventies-tinged designs signaled a sexy, super-glam new direction for the previously sleepy brand. It was one that would earn the early endorsement of Madonna (who wore the collection’s key look to that year’s MTV Video Music Awards), catapult the charismatic Ford himself to fame, and send Gucci’s fortunes skyrocketing.