Waskerley Way – A Route Created and a Route Destroyed

When one takes stock of the current national situation regarding rambling, routes available and access there is no doubt whatsoever that the situation is immeasurably better than it was back in the 1960s when l started walking. Indeed there is now a plethora of guide books and walking and climbing magazines. However although there has been a significant improvement on many minor paths which is currently under some pressure as local authorities try to cut costs, the real downside is the destruction of many old routes in remote places by 4WD vehicles and Trail Bikes. Some of this is indeed legal but many of us will have had peace and tranquility destroyed in remote places by trail bikes and sometimes 4WD used illegally.

The whole situation is quite complex and the key as to whether they can use routes is ‘historical use’ and whether in the past there has been regular use on certain routes such as BOATs (Byways Open to All Traffic). Obviously Bridleways, often illegally used, are for walkers, cyclists and horses only. There is a range of designations and terms in use and these can be found on both the website of the Yorkshire Dales Green Lane Alliance (YDGLA) and the Peak District Green Lane Alliance (PDGLA). The former was set up about 10 years ago following the destruction of many of the famous Yorkshire Green Lanes which can be found throughout the Dales. Some, such as Mastiles Lane, are quite rightly famous among the outdoor fraternity. The YDGLA has been very successful and has saved many routes where Traffic Regulation Orders (TROs) have been established, which can either stop or limit vehicular access. The PDGLA is much more recent but they have managed to get a TRO on Chapel Gate which links to the start of the Pennine Way.

Here in Co Durham the position has been much quieter although there are currently six BOATs where a claim has been made to legalise motorised transport. This is currently under discussion with amenity groups, wildlife groups and the landowners all being opposed. A decision will probably be made within the next year when the barristers have had their say. We will be walking on part of one of these routes in this walk.

The walk starts at Waskerley village (or what little remains of it). Before starting have a look inside the church where Dave Liddle, a DCC Ranger, has mounted an interesting display of some of the history of the village and the railway. The line originally opened in 1834 to carry limestone from Stanhope and coal from further down the line to the Tyne at South Shields. The Consulting Engineer was Robert Stephenson. It was not built on an Act of Parliament but on a succession of wayleaves with the landowners. Their extortionate demands led to the closure in 1840. The line then reopened on September 1st 1845 under two owners: the section from Stanhope to Consett was under the ownership of the Derwent Iron company to safeguard their supplies of limestone, whilst the section from Consett to the Tyne became the Pontop Tyne Railway. The Derwent section was rough terrain and there was engine houses at Crawley and Wetherill to raise the waggons from Stanhope to the moors. Just past Waskerley the line went to the north of the current track to eventually reach Hownes Gill via Nanny Mayers incline which was self acting where waggons descending pulled others up. There was an ale house here kept by the aforementioned lady and her grave can be seen in Muggleswick churchyard. Hownes Gill was also difficult where the waggons were lowered down an incline and up the other side to reach level ground.

The situation improved tremendously when the Stockton and Darlington Railway opened a line through Crook and Tow Law to Burnhill where it joined up with the Derwent Iron Railway. An S & D marker will be seen towards the end of the walk. This new line eliminated the Nanny Mayers incline route (which can still be traced on the ground) and the construction of the superb Hownes Gill Viaduct was another great step forward. The line was the highest standard gauge line in the country. However the low density of population passenger numbers were negligible and the line closed to passengers as long ago as 1859, although unauthorised passengers were carried well into the 20th century! The line eventually closed on August 2nd 1965. The inclines at Crawley and Wetherill were in use throughout and it is a pity that one winding engine could not have been retained for posterity.

The closure also saw the end of Waskerley Village which was entirely a railway community and the houses were demolished. A litle known fact is that during WW2 people were evacuated here and recently we met a chap who had been there as a child until 1947 when he returned to the Tyne. All that remains now are two farms, the church and the goods shed.

All this is history but l am sure that all those who worked on this railway would approve of its current use as a bridleway well used by walkers and some horseriders, but most significantly by cyclists as it is part of the famous C2C route which brings business and some employment to the area. The credit for this must go initially to DCC for creating so many fine routes on abandoned railway lines and to Sustrans for developing and publicising the route. What a pity that other County Councils were not as far sighted!

We walk down the route past the old goods shed. The sides of this railway are a haven for butterflies and a list of the rare ones are on an interpretation board but some to be found are small pearl bordered fritillary, speckled wood, small heath, dingy skipper, green veined white and orange tip. Quite a collection! Keep an eye open for a specially themed DCC walk to see these butterflies. Near to the Information Board can be found frog orchids. Near this spot is also memorial seat for Ian Patterson, a DCC Voluntary Ranger, who sadly died whilst out walking in this area.

You soon reach a spot where the path bends back on itself acutely and this is where the Derwent Iron met the S & D. There was obviously a manouevre here to arrange the change of direction but current work on the C2C is constructing an easier route which historically is a pity in some ways. Presumably the original route will also stay open with access by a stile.

At Red House leave the line and head north-east, passing a bungalow on your left. The house to the right over the field called Bee Cottage Farm is served by a telephone link to Consett and this l am told is one of the longest in the country! For the last mile you will have noticed some old fences next to the track. This site was previously occupied by the Ministry of Defence and served as a military stores for both WW1 and WW2.

After a right turn you arrive at Oxen Law. This is on the line of an old pack horse route which probably carried salt as there is a Salters Gate to the south. The route was also a drovers route presumably for bringing cattle down from Scotland after the Falkirk Tryst. Heading north this is one of the BOATs mentioned earlier. The route has a hard surface for the first two fields and then skirts Whitehall Moss to arrive back at the railway. Not so long ago this was a turf track which is now deeply rutted and filled with water directly caused by vehicle usage. The original plan was to continue down towards the original track of Nanny Meyer but access is very difficult so we will continue down the Waskerley Way to Whitehall picnic area. Here turn left down the road for a short distance and then follow the footpath down to the Watergate Burn and a further picnic spot.

Looking across the valley of the Watergate Burn from the junction with Healeyfield Lane.

An alternative is to stay on the road to Healeyfield and just past the farm take the footpath north at GR 068483. Keep the woods on your left and eventually reach Dene Howl. This area was part of Healeyfield Lead mine and Dene Howl was the site of lead washing screens. There were deep shafts here up to 60 fathoms (360ft) deep and which were used to drain water. 10,000 tons of lead were extracted here with an average of 15 grams of silver per ton. Healeyfield is derived from a field near a high clearing whilst nearby Castleside was named after a local farmer called Castle. Dene Howl can also be reached from Watergate Picnic area GR 077465 by a good track.

We follow the access road from the farm west and at the road turn uphill passing through Springwell to Healeyfield Lane Head west along the road for a short distance and cross the stile on your right. We now go diagonally left down the field to cross the Horsleyhope Burn by a footbridge. Be careful as its very slippy! Climb up the other side, cross the stile and reach Low Horsleyhope which was derelict until recently. It was sold by auction in 2011 and is being restored. Watch out for hares around here. The waymarked route heads uphill past Middle Horsleyhope and High Horsleyhope to reach Goldhill. A footpath sign here would be handy but go into the back of the farm and exit to the left. There is now a good track to Carp Shield in glorious scenery and here again a footpath sign would be useful so you know to go round the back of the farm by the small gate on the right and then through a large gate. Ahead is Cushat Leazes, an atmospheric ruin, which is a very pleasant spot.

Head south to the access land stile and take the path to the right following the wall and at the corner cross Backstone Burn. In front of you is the dam wall for Smiddy Shaw reservoir built in 1877 along with Waskerley and Hishope which actually feeds Smiddy Shaw. All three go to the Treatment works at Honey Hill and when this supply is insufficient water can be taken from Burnhope by gravity and from the Tyne Tees pipeline. Cross the Hisehope feeder near to The Pike and continue south-west to reach the main road at Hawkburn Head and then the Waskerley Way which is followed downhill back to the start. Keep an eye open for the S & D marker on your left. About 400 yards before Waskerley is a memorial seat to Muriel Gallagher who was a resident of Waskerley and it was her husband’s company who demolished the houses of Waskerley village. Also on your right is a fenced-off area which is a juniper plantation where there is an explanation board. In the light of the current problem with the junipers in Teesdale we may well need more of these in the future.

This walk has a bit of everything with wide-ranging views, historical interest and old railways but it also shows the difficulties of upland sheep farmers where properties are for sale or have been abandoned. Thanks are due to Brian Page a Voluntary Ranger of DCC and Dave Liddle a full time Ranger for DCC who have provided some of the information on this walk.

Found the visit to Waskerley Village (what’s left of it !”) very interesting, photographs and written accounts of life in the hamlet of Waskerley (to be found – well displayed in the Old Chapel) It was a tough life up there.
My old friend Bill Moody who was the Postman and who delivered all the parcels and letters remembered Waskerley with great fondness. The folk were incredibly kind to him and particularly at Christmas, he found their hospitality overwhelming and had difficulty ‘breaking away,’feasting on cake and coffee and presumably non-alcoholic ginger wine. Suitable for Methodists.

Bill Moody reckoned The Post Office used to buy him THREE PAIR of Wellingtons per year, most of which were worn out trudging from Consett to Waskerley. Happy days !
Waskerley – well worth a sentimental visit into the not so recent past.