Food for Fort + Meat | The Guardianhttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/series/food-for-fort+meat
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Food for Fort: On marmalade and bolognesehttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/30/marmalade-authentic-bolognese-sauce-recipe
Is there an alternative to chopping orange peel for marmalade by hand? Plus why doesn't my bolognese sauce taste right?<p><strong>I wish I had a mechanical means of shredding the peel for marmalade, rather than using a paring knife, which always gives a coarse finish. </strong><br>I follow the example of that nonpareil among marmalade makers, my mother, and cut the peel by hand. There is no substitute. You can use a&nbsp;food processor, but you'll still get uneven chunks. Like all dull kitchen jobs, it helps if you treat it as a form of meditation or anger management.</p><p><strong>My bolognese sauce never tastes right. I fry onions and peppers, add garlic and lardons, then remove. I&nbsp;brown the mince, return the onion mix for a while, then add two or three tins of tomatoes, some salt and pepper and some tomato purée. I've experimented with basil, bay and oregano to no avail. Any tips?</strong><br>It may be the peppers, the bay leaf or the oregano – there shouldn't be any in a classic bolognese. According to my bible on Italian food, <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Italian-Regional-Cooking-Boni/dp/0171470583/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1322823983&amp;sr=1-2" title="">Italian Regional Cooking</a>, by Ada Boni, there is onion, carrot, celery, pancetta, ground pork, ground veal, sausage meat, chicken livers (optional), dry white wine, tomato paste, stock and single cream. No peppers. No garlic. No bay leaves. And certainly no oregano, which is the herb of southern Italy, and a very powerful one at that, while ragù bolognese is from Bologna in the north.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/30/marmalade-authentic-bolognese-sauce-recipe">Continue reading...</a>PastaMeatMain courseFood & drinkLife and styleFri, 30 Dec 2011 22:59:01 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/30/marmalade-authentic-bolognese-sauce-recipePhotograph: AlamyIs there an easy way to cut peel for marmalade? Photograph: AlamyPhotograph: AlamyIs there an easy way to cut peel for marmalade? Photograph: AlamyMatthew Fort2011-12-30T22:59:01ZFood for Fort: on cured lomo and salted capers | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/sep/23/cured-lomo-salted-capers-advice
What recipes can you use cured lomo in? Plus any tips on making salted capers less salty?<p><strong>I've been given some Spanish charcuterie (or whatever the equivalent Spanish term is), which&nbsp;includes cured lomo – can you suggest any recipes in which I&nbsp;could use it?</strong><br>Ah, I think you mean lomo embuchado (or cured pork fillet to&nbsp;me). It's designed to be sliced thinly and eaten just as it is, much as&nbsp;you would salami or bresaola, though you could splash a little olive oil over it, I&nbsp;suppose. I have been known to cut up similar products into cubes and add them to&nbsp;stews and the like in place of bacon (it's very good in a rabbit stew, for example). And if you want a complete break with convention, wrap it around other ingredients – pickled courgettes, say, or dollops of&nbsp;celeriac remoulade – or add some to whatever you're using to stuff tomatoes, onions or courgettes. Or cut it into slivers and add it to salads.</p><p><strong>I find it impossible to desalinate salted capers enough to make them palatable. Any tips?</strong><br>I have always felt that the saltiness of salted capers was part of their point, that sun'n'sea-invoking combination of the caper's wild tang and the sharp, marine bite of the salt. The Italian website <a href="http://www.capersud.it" title="">Capersud</a> says, "Before using them, put them in abundant cold water, changing it many times, to make them lose a&nbsp;little bit of salt, and be careful not to salt too much the food they will be added to." I think that's the point: you use the capers as a&nbsp;seasoning in&nbsp;their own right.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/sep/23/cured-lomo-salted-capers-advice">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleMeatPorkFri, 23 Sep 2011 21:59:14 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/sep/23/cured-lomo-salted-capers-advicePhotograph: Roger Tooth for the GuardianWell worth their salt: Don't waste time trying to erase all traces of salt in salted capers – it's part of the whole point: the capers are a seasoning in their own right. Photograph: Roger Tooth for the GuardianPhotograph: Roger Tooth for the GuardianWell worth their salt: Don't waste time trying to erase all traces of salt in salted capers – it's part of the whole point: the capers are a seasoning in their own right. Photograph: Roger Tooth for the GuardianMatthew Fort2011-09-23T21:59:14ZFood for Fort: On cinnamon rice and chicken sausages | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jun/24/cinnamon-rice-chicken-sausage-matthew-fort
Why do my attempts at a fragrant, Pakistani-style rice fall flat? Plus an old favourite recipe revisited<p><strong>I was treated to a meal by a Pakistani friend whose cinnamon rice really tasted of the spice. My efforts to recreate it have been dismal – where might I be going wrong?</strong><br>Cinnamon, whether stick or ground, has to be fresh and lively if it is to do its work effectively – maybe yours has seen better days? In her recipe for peelay chaaval, or aromatic rice (in Illustrated Indian Cookery; BBC), Madhur Jaffrey uses a 2.5cm stick, 3-4 cloves and ¾ tsp turmeric, to infuse 450ml basmati rice cooked in 1.2 litres of water. If your recipe calls for ground cinnamon, buy in small amounts and use within a month. This&nbsp;may be heresy, but if after all that your rice still does not exude the cinnamon whiff you're after, add a quarter-teaspoon of freshly ground cinnamon at the end of the cooking, and let it stand for five minutes before serving. Heat has a way of killing off delicate spices (and herbs), particularly if not in the first flush of youth.</p><p><strong>I've just got around to making </strong><a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2005/nov/19/features.weekend" title=""><strong>your chicken sausage recipe from 2005</strong></a><strong>, which you say can be frozen. Presumably you mean when cooked. If&nbsp;so, how best to reheat them?</strong><br>And what a splendid recipe that is – not&nbsp;wholly original, of course, but a winner. It can be frozen uncooked or cooked. If frozen uncooked, make sure it's properly defrosted, and cook as per the recipe instructions; if frozen cooked, defrost and reheat gently in the oven at 150C/275F/gas mark 2 for 20-25 minutes. There may be a slight loss of texture in the freezing, but it should still taste great.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jun/24/cinnamon-rice-chicken-sausage-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>MeatFood & drinkLife and styleChickenFri, 24 Jun 2011 21:59:00 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jun/24/cinnamon-rice-chicken-sausage-matthew-fortPhotograph: EPA/Alex HoffordGo with the grain: How to turn this into a Pakistani-style spiced rice? Photograph: EPA/Alex HoffordPhotograph: EPA/Alex HoffordGo with the grain: How to turn this into a Pakistani-style spiced rice? Photograph: EPA/Alex HoffordMatthew Fort2011-06-24T21:59:00ZFood for Fort: On baking parchment and rabbit | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/mar/19/parchment-rabbit-recipe-matthew-fort
Can you really wash baking parchment? Plus a yummy Italian rabbit dish that bears more than a passing resemblance to tinned tuna – yes, really<p><strong>Nigella said on TV that she washes baking parchment for reuse. But it's hard to clean without tearing, and it wrinkles when it's dried. Any tips?</strong><br>Far be it from me to quibble with Nigella, but I don't see the point in washing baking parchment. Yes, you can wipe it down with a damp cloth and dry it with kitchen towel, but I&nbsp;think you can take thrift too far. Nigella may have been referring to silicone sheets, which are another matter – they're the hi-tech version of baking parchment, and can be washed and reused many times. You can find them at <a href="http://www.marksandspencer.com/Marks-and-Spencer-Silicone-Baking/dp/B003FWGC20?ie=UTF8&amp;ref=sr_1_52&amp;nodeId=48459031&amp;sr=1-52&amp;qid=1299664734" title="">Marks &amp; Spencer</a> (£7.50), <a href="http://www.johnlewis.com/180761/Style.aspx" title="">John Lewis</a> (£10) and <a href="http://www.lakeland.co.uk/bakingenius-baking-sheet/F/C/baking-bakeware/product/12371/pgs/20" title="">Lakeland</a> (£12.99).</p><p><strong>On a recent repeat of </strong><a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006xkb4" title=""><strong>Rick Stein's Food Heroes</strong></a><strong>, you made a&nbsp;rabbit dish that was first cooked and then marinated in oil. What's the recipe?</strong><br>The dish, which hails from Piedmont, is tonno di coniglio, so called because the rabbit takes on the texture of tinned tuna. You need: one rabbit; 20-30 sage leaves; 20 unpeeled garlic cloves; up to one litre extra-virgin olive oil; salt and pepper. Chop the rabbit into pieces, put in a pan and cover with salted water. Bring to a simmer and cook gently until the meat is ready to fall off the bones – about 45 minutes. Drain. While warm, pull the flesh off the bones and place in layers in an earthenware container, separating each layer with sage leaves and garlic cloves, and seasoning as you build – you should have at least three layers of rabbit. Cover with oil, and pop in the fridge overnight, ideally two or three. Serve with a&nbsp;salad – chicory works very well.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/mar/19/parchment-rabbit-recipe-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>Italian food and drinkGameMeatMain courseStarterFood & drinkLife and styleBakingSat, 19 Mar 2011 00:02:25 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/mar/19/parchment-rabbit-recipe-matthew-fortPhotograph: GettyHow do you make this look like tinned tuna, and why would you even want to? Read on... Photograph: GettyPhotograph: GettyHow do you make this look like tinned tuna, and why would you even want to? Read on... Photograph: GettyMatthew Fort2011-03-19T00:02:25ZFood for Fort: Your Christmas cooking dilemmas answered | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/dec/18/turkey-christmas-cake-fruit-cake
Where can I get essence to make my own violet creams? How do I stop fruitcake batter curdling? What to do with a year old Christmas cake? Plus low-temperature roast turkey revisited<p><strong>The usual suggestions to&nbsp;avoid fruitcake batter curdling (not letting the&nbsp;butter warm too much, adding eggs bit&nbsp;by bit) sometimes work for me, sometimes not. I&nbsp;use very wet and dense muscovado sugar, which seems to&nbsp;get&nbsp;even wetter after beating, so&nbsp;curdling seems almost inevitable. Should I&nbsp;use a different sugar? I already use only half the amount called for – might this be behind the curdling, and&nbsp;how badly would it affect the moistness of the finished cake? Am&nbsp;I right to think that butter and&nbsp;eggs should be about the same temperature? I've always just continued adding flour and crossed my fingers.</strong><br><strong> </strong>Leave the muscovado sugar where it&nbsp;is; and halving the quantity shouldn't make a difference to the curdling or moistness of the baked cake, either. According to Anne Willan in&nbsp;Cooked To Perfection (a&nbsp;very good standby volume; Quadrille, 1997), cold eggs are the most likely culprit for the curdling, though watery eggs or inferior butter also may be to blame. If&nbsp;the mix curdles, just warm the bowl slightly and beat until the batter is smooth again. If you have eggs to add after that, beat in a&nbsp;tablespoon of flour before you do so. And here's a&nbsp;word of comfort from <a href="http://www.nigelslater.com/" title="">Nigel Slater</a>: "Early curdling won't make any difference to the finished cake." And&nbsp;he should know. (He also adds the flour all at once.)</p><p><strong>I'd love to make rose and violet creams as Christmas presents (they&nbsp;are so expensive to buy). Where can&nbsp;I get the essences, violet in&nbsp;particular? I've searched&nbsp;all over. </strong><br>You could probably get away with bog-standard rose water to give your chocs the perfume and flavour of the&nbsp;rose garden – there are&nbsp;plenty of brands to choose from, and it's sold in most supermarkets; if&nbsp;you want to be patriotic, though, buy <a href="http://www.rosewater.co.uk" title="">Cawthorpe Rosewater</a> (£12 for 500ml). And <a href="http://www.msk-ingredients.com" title="">MSK</a> sells all sorts of flavouring agents, including floral waters (<a href="http://www.msk-ingredients.com/view-product.php?pid=44&amp;id=MSK-0186" title="">rose water</a> among them) and flavour drops,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.msk-ingredients.com/view-product.php?pid=23&amp;id=MSK-0239" title="">including violet</a>. It&nbsp;ain't cheap (£17.99 for 30ml), but it is the real McCoy.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/dec/18/turkey-christmas-cake-fruit-cake">Continue reading...</a>MeatChristmasFood & drinkLife and styleSat, 18 Dec 2010 00:03:26 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/dec/18/turkey-christmas-cake-fruit-cakePhotograph: Justin Sullivan/Getty ImagesYou lookin' at me? Well, you'll view roast turkey in a whole new light after your first foray into low-temperature roasting. Photograph: Justin Sullivan/Getty ImagesPhotograph: Justin Sullivan/Getty ImagesYou lookin' at me? Well, you'll view roast turkey in a whole new light after your first foray into low-temperature roasting. Photograph: Justin Sullivan/Getty ImagesMatthew Fort2010-12-18T00:03:26ZFood for Fort: Talking turkey, and other matters | Matthew Fort | Food and drinkhttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/nov/20/perfect-roast-turkey-matthew-fort
Want perfect roast turkey this Christmas? Well, you've come to the right place for culinary advice<p><strong>With one member of the family dairy-intolerant and myself pregnant and gagging at the thought of goat's butter, what is the best way to keep a roasting turkey moist this Christmas?</strong><br>Goat's butter! Oh dear heavens. In fact, you don't need to bother with dairy produce of any kind. All you need is time – 10&nbsp;hours, to be exact – and a&nbsp;meat thermometer. The following is based on a recipe I gave some years ago in this very newspaper.</p><p>First, treat yourself to a decent turkey, one with a good pedigree and provenance – no amount of culinary magic can turn a broiler turkey into anything other than a&nbsp;gastronomic abomination. Next, a&nbsp;bit of&nbsp;theory. Very low temperature roasting (ie, below 100C) is designed to bring the bird very slowly to between 61C and 63C, which is the temperature at which it will be cooked and all potential pathogens knocked on the head, provided that temperature has been maintained for 30 minutes at 61C or 17 minutes at 63C. This procedure reduces the tightening up of the muscle structure to the minimum, keeps in as many natural juices as possible, and produces a&nbsp;tender, tasty and succulent turkey.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/nov/20/perfect-roast-turkey-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>ChristmasMain courseMeatFood & drinkLife and styleTurkeySat, 20 Nov 2010 00:02:53 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/nov/20/perfect-roast-turkey-matthew-fortPhotograph: PA/Sean DempseyThe low-down: Want perfect roast turkey this Christmas? Then adopt the low-temperature cooking approach. Photograph: PA/Sean DempseyPhotograph: PA/Sean DempseyThe low-down: Want perfect roast turkey this Christmas? Then adopt the low-temperature cooking approach. Photograph: PA/Sean DempseyMatthew Fort2010-11-20T00:02:53ZFood for Fort: Resting meat, herring roe and Welsh rarebit | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/may/01/rarebit-herring-roe-matthew-fort
When you rest meat, it cools – but what if you like hot food? What's the secret to perfect Welsh rarebit?<p><strong>Recipes for roasting meat and fowl always suggest a 10- to 15-minute resting time before carving. Even if tented with foil, the meat cools, and by the time it is carved, it's even cooler. My husband insists on piping hot food, so he reheats it in the microwave after carving, but to me that just "stews" the meat. How do you get over this problem?</strong></p><p>You can't, is the short answer. When you apply heat to the outside of a piece of meat, the fibres in the meat contract and squeeze juices held in the muscle fibres to the exterior of the joint, where they caramelise. When you reduce the heat – the resting time – the meat cools. As it cools, the contracted fibres relax, and some of the juices return whence they came. And so the meat is tender, juicy… and warm. Not hot. So either you have your meat very hot but dry and tough, or warm and delectable. You might, however, like to try a deception: get your husband's plate very hot before putting food on it. This will impart heat to the meat and, when he burns his fingers on it, he'll think the food is as hot as the plate.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/may/01/rarebit-herring-roe-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>CheeseBritish food and drinkFishMain courseMeatSnacksFood & drinkLife and styleFri, 30 Apr 2010 23:18:17 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/may/01/rarebit-herring-roe-matthew-fortPhotograph: David Sillitoe/The GuardianGive it a rest: Roast meat needs time before carving so the juices pushed out by the cooking can return to the fibres. Photograph: David Sillitoe/The GuardianPhotograph: David Sillitoe/The GuardianGive it a rest: Roast meat needs time before carving so the juices pushed out by the cooking can return to the fibres. Photograph: David Sillitoe/The GuardianMatthew Fort2010-04-30T23:18:17ZFood for Fort: Béchamel, double ovens and game birds| Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/24/bechamel-game-ovens-matthew-fort
What's the perfect béchamel sauce? And why can game birds be served pink, yet chicken and turkey has to be cooked through?<p><strong>A foolproof recipe for béchamel, please. I am a competent cook, but&nbsp;mine always turns out lumpy.</strong><br><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A9chamel_sauce" title="">Béchamel sauce</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_de_B%C3%A9chamel" title="">Louis de Béchamel</a>'s great gift to the world. He was Marquis de Nointel and lord steward of the royal household to Louis XIV, and he had sunk a good chunk of the family fortune into the cod fisheries of Newfoundland. The trouble was that no self-respecting Frenchman wanted to eat dried cod, so Louis came up with the classic white sauce as a marketing ploy, and it became one of the building blocks of gastronomy. Personally, I always rely on the method given in the greatest cookery book ever written, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastering_the_Art_of_French_Cooking" title="">Mastering The Art Of French Cookery</a>, by Louise Bertholle, Julia Child and Simone Beck. They recommend making it with 3 tbsp flour, 2 tbsp butter, 500ml milk and ¼ tsp salt. You make a roux (with the flour and butter) and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for two minutes without browning. In a separate pan, bring the milk and salt to boiling. Remove the roux from the heat. As soon as it has stopped bubbling, add the milk all at once. Beat vigorously with a whisk. Put the proto-béchamel back on a high-ish heat and go on whisking until the sauce comes to a&nbsp;boil. Continue in this way for a&nbsp;minute. Taste. Season. Your sauce should be ready. The&nbsp;MTAOFC ladies say: "If&nbsp;your roux is hot, and your liquid near the boil, you should never have a lumpy sauce. But if there are lumps, force through a&nbsp;very fine sieve. Then simmer for five minutes."</p><p>•This article was amended on 29 April 2010. The original gave 2 tbsp each of flour and butter. This has been corrected.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/24/bechamel-game-ovens-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>French food and drinkGameMeatFood & drinkLife and styleFri, 23 Apr 2010 23:17:16 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/apr/24/bechamel-game-ovens-matthew-fortPhotograph: John MacTavish/AlamyWhy is it safe to eat game birds such as pheasant pink but not chicken? Photograph: John MacTavish/AlamyPhotograph: John MacTavish/AlamyWhy is it safe to eat game birds such as pheasant pink but not chicken? Photograph: John MacTavish/AlamyMatthew Fort2010-04-23T23:17:16ZFood for Fort: Chicken and salmonella, small portions and parsnipshttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/27/chicken-salmonella-parsnips-blumenthal
Why do we cook chicken thoroughly but not its livers? Plus why do my parsnips taste metallic?<p><strong>We are constantly warned about the dangers of salmonella in chicken, so why does every chef say not to overcook chicken livers and instead serve them pink? How come one is dangerous and the other apparently not?</strong><br>If you overcook chicken livers, they become nasty, bitter, grainy lumps, whereas when pink they have a&nbsp;­delicate firmness and richness of ­flavour. So can you have salmonella-free livers (and chook) and fabulous flavour? Well, it's all a matter of ­temperature. By that, I mean the ­internal temperature of the livers (or the bird). It's generally ­accepted that to kill off the bacteria quickly you need to get the ­internal temperature to 70C or higher, so provided you get the livers to 70C for a few ­minutes, you should have no problems and it should still be pink in the middle. The same principles apply to roasting a whole bird, so you need a meat thermometer, to check a­ccurately at the ­critical points – the breast next to the bone, where the thighs and legs join and the inside of the thighs. The <a href="http://www.food.gov.uk/" title="">Food Standards Agency</a> recommends roasting a 2-3kg bird at 190C/375F/gas mark 5 for an hour to an hour and a half, to whack any bugs. However, you'll lose a&nbsp;lot of moisture and thereby flavour by doing so. Can you have the best of both worlds – less loss of f­lavour with a guarantee that your chicken won't poison you? Well, in <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2004/dec/11/foodanddrink.shopping3" title="">a column for this very magazine in ­December 2004</a>, <a href="http://www.fatduck.co.uk/" title="">Heston ­Blumenthal </a>cited ­research that showed that if you can&nbsp;bring the internal temperature of a turkey to 60C and hold it there for a&nbsp;minimum of 12 minutes, all the stomach-churning bacteria will be no more. And what goes for turkeys goes for chickens – in other words, roast low and slow.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/27/chicken-salmonella-parsnips-blumenthal">Continue reading...</a>Heston BlumenthalMeatRestaurantsFood & drinkLife and styleChickenSat, 27 Feb 2010 00:34:56 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/27/chicken-salmonella-parsnips-blumenthalPhotograph: Rebecca Lovell/guardian.co.ukHow come we're told to eat chicken liver pink? Isn't that a surefire way to get salmonella? Photograph: Rebecca Lovell/guardian.co.ukPhotograph: Rebecca Lovell/guardian.co.ukHow come we're told to eat chicken liver pink? Isn't that a surefire way to get salmonella? Photograph: Rebecca Lovell/guardian.co.ukMatthew Fort2010-02-27T00:34:56ZFood for Fort: On cucumber sandwiches, beef Wellington and duck eggs | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/13/cucumber-sandwich-beef-wellington-duck-eggs
How can I replicate afternoon tea at the Ritz? Can I do beef wellington with no mushrooms? And do duck eggs have to be well cooked?<p><strong>I recently went to </strong><a href="http://www.theritzlondon.com/" title=""><strong>the Ritz</strong></a><strong> for ­afternoon tea, where they served cucumber sandwiches cut into four small triangles with the crust cut off perfectly. My friend says you can buy a template into which you put the sandwich before cutting. Where can I get hold of one?</strong><br>If you wanted a heart-, star-, teddy bear- or dolphin-shaped cutter, no problem, but no one seems to have thought of your particular request (or not since Victorian times, anyway – there were several patented devices available back then). Needless to say, the Americans are way ahead of us on this, so take a look at <a href="http://www.goldbug.eu" title="">Goldbug Europe</a>, which has half- and quarter-sandwich ­cutters for £3.99, or track down Good Bites crustless sandwich ­cutters on <a href="http://www.amazon.com" title="">amazon.com</a>. <a href="http://www.lakeland.co.uk" title="">Lakeland</a> sells something called EvenSlice (£18.99), which takes the uncertainty out of slicing bread to regular thicknesses, though you'll have to trim off the crusts and quarter them (not really so difficult).</p><p><strong>I'd love to make beef wellington, but my girlfriend doesn't like mushrooms. Is there a good ­alternative to duxelles? I've seen one suggestion to use olive ­tapenade, but that sounds as if it would be too strong in flavour.</strong><br>Curiously, I ate a magnificent beef wellington the other night, cooked by <a href="http://www.thekitchin.com/kitchin/home" title="">Tom Kitchin</a>, the curly-haired wonder of Leith in Scotland. The ­little layer of goodies surrounding his beef fillet did ­include mushrooms, but also blanched spinach (the green looks very pretty) and air-dried ham, and therein may lie the answer to your ­conundrum. ­Dispense with the mushrooms and replace with a mixture of finely chopped ­onion and unsmoked ­bacon (smoked might be too strong), fried until soft and sweet. You'll then have layers of contrasting ­textures and flavours surrounding the beef – onion and bacon first, then blanched spinach, followed by fine,&nbsp;buttery pastry on the outside. That can't be bad, can it?</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/13/cucumber-sandwich-beef-wellington-duck-eggs">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleMeatDuckBeefSat, 13 Feb 2010 00:10:07 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/feb/13/cucumber-sandwich-beef-wellington-duck-eggsPhotograph: Bettmann/CorbisProvided you cut the sandwiches properly, it's possible to recreate tea at the Ritz in your own home. Well, almost… Photograph: Bettmann/CorbisPhotograph: Bettmann/CorbisProvided you cut the sandwiches properly, it's possible to recreate tea at the Ritz in your own home. Well, almost… Photograph: Bettmann/CorbisMatthew Fort2010-02-13T00:10:07ZFood for Fort: Poached eggs, lamb's liver and crème caramelhttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/jan/23/poached-egg-liver-matthew-fort
On the physics (or otherwise) of poached eggs, student cooking and failed crème caramel<p><strong>How does one poach an egg in clingfilm? Never mind the safety of clingfilm – just explain the physics.</strong><br>It's not a question of physics, just of practicality. Brush the inside of a&nbsp;ramekin, cup or some such with vegetable oil and line with microwaveable clingfilm, ­making sure there's plenty over­lapping the top. Break in an egg, take&nbsp;the corners of the clingfilm and twist to form a bag. Drop into boiling water and simmer until your egg is done – three or four minutes. Peel away the&nbsp;clingfilm and, hey presto, you have your clingfilm-poached egg.</p><p><strong>As a poverty-stricken student, my main feed is chicken thighs, beef mince and other such cheap meat, all of which are versatile, but when it comes to lamb's liver, all I ever do is cook it with bacon, mushrooms and onions. Anything else I can do?</strong><br>You're certainly a far more sophis­ticated cook than I was as a student. Liver is pretty versatile, in fact. I&nbsp;like it cut into thin strips, rolled in plain flour ­seasoned with salt, pepper, English mustard powder and paprika, then fried in vegetable oil. Pile&nbsp;it high and splash over a little Worcester­shire sauce if you need a liquid ­element. Or do it sweet and sour – dip thin slices of liver first in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs, and fry until brown and crunchy. Off the heat, deglaze the pan with the juice of a lemon and a teaspoon of caster sugar. Warm ­until the sugar dissolves and pour over the liver. For further ­inspiration go to <a href="http://www.beyondbakedbeans.com/" title="beyondbakedbeans.com">beyondbakedbeans.com</a> and <a href="http://www.studentrecipes.com/" title="studentrecipes.com">studentrecipes.com</a>.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/jan/23/poached-egg-liver-matthew-fort">Continue reading...</a>MeatDessertFood & drinkLife and styleSat, 23 Jan 2010 00:10:39 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/jan/23/poached-egg-liver-matthew-fortPhotograph: AlamyWhy does crème caramel not always turn out looking like this little beauty? Photograph: AlamyPhotograph: AlamyWhy does crème caramel not always turn out looking like this little beauty? Photograph: AlamyMatthew Fort2010-01-23T00:10:39ZFood for Fort: Christmas cake, giant couscous and Barnsley chops revisited | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/12/barnsley-chop-christmas-cake-couscous
How do I adjust measurements and timings to make four small Christmas cakes as gifts? And readers put us straight on the Barnsley chop<p><strong>I'm a big fan of a </strong><a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2007/nov/24/foodanddrink.baking45" title="Marguerite Patten Christmas cake"><strong>Marguerite Patten Christmas cake</strong></a><strong> recipe from a 2007 Guardian supplement. I&nbsp;make one every year. I'd planned to make smaller versions as gifts for friends this year, but don't know how to adjust the cooking times. I want to make four cakes, so should I just go for four separate smaller tins, or for a cake tin with dividers? And how should I adjust the baking times? The original calls for 90 minutes at&nbsp;160C and then two hours at 145C.</strong><br>There was only one thing for it, and that was to go to the oracle herself. This is what Marguerite told me: "It's quite hard&nbsp;to adjust the cooking times, and I hate giving advice on things I&nbsp;haven't tried myself – ideally, I'd like to know exactly how big the cake tins are. But I suggest starting at 150C, then, after an hour, if the cake has changed colour, drop to 140-145C and test with a skewer after a further hour's baking."</p><p><strong>I really like the giant couscous in ready-made deli salad mixes, but can't find it uncooked anywhere.</strong><br>This made me look more deeply into the world of couscous than I had reason to before, and fascinating it is, too, what with multiple names, variants and even ingredients. It is rather too complicated to go into in detail here,&nbsp;but suffice to say it would seem that the one you're looking for&nbsp;is mougrabieh or&nbsp;moghrabieh, a&nbsp;Levantine variant popular in Israel that's made using&nbsp;hard wheat rather than the semolina&nbsp;wheat used in the smaller couscous. The Sardinian pasta, fregola sarda, could also fit the description (try <a href="http://www.melburyandappleton.co.uk" title="Melbury &amp; Appleton">Melbury &amp; Appleton</a>). Anyway, <a href="http://www.merchant-gourmet.com" title="Merchant Gourmet">Merchant Gourmet</a> has giant couscous at £2.09 for 300g, and it's sold in a good many supermarkets and delis. If you want a&nbsp;genuine Levantine version, try the Liban Vert brand (£2.95 a kilo) from <a href="http://www.maroque.co.uk" title="maroque.co.uk">maroque.co.uk</a>, which also stocks fine and medium couscous, as well as <a href="http://www.belazu.com/" title="Belazu">Belazu</a>'s traditional Moroccan version made from barley.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/12/barnsley-chop-christmas-cake-couscous">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleBakingMeatChristmasSat, 12 Dec 2009 00:35:05 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/12/barnsley-chop-christmas-cake-couscousPhotograph: Matthias Rietschel/APWhether it's a German stollen or an English Christmas cake, adjusting ingredient quantities and baking times is not all you have to take into consideration . Photograph: Matthias Rietschel/APPhotograph: Matthias Rietschel/APWhether it's a German stollen or an English Christmas cake, adjusting ingredient quantities and baking times is not all you have to take into consideration . Photograph: Matthias Rietschel/APMatthew Fort2009-12-12T00:35:05ZFood for Fort: Pig's trotters, gluten-free flour and olive oil for mayo | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/05/pigs-trotters-oil-gluten-free
How can I convert unadventurous meat-eaters to pig's trotters, and other culinary dilemmas<p><strong>Do you have a tasty recipe for pig's trotters and ears that would appeal to unadventurous eaters?</strong><br>I do love a trotter, and pig's ear, come to that. There's a splendid book by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambrose_Heath" title="Ambrose Heath">Ambrose Heath</a>, sadly long out of print, called Offal (the original title, Meat Without&nbsp;Coupons, gives some idea of its vintage). Here's his recipe for fried pig's ears: "Soak&nbsp;the ears, and put them into warm water salted to the proportion of half an ounce of&nbsp;salt to&nbsp;a quart. Bring to the boil,&nbsp;skim, add two sliced carrots, a large onion stuck with&nbsp;one or two cloves, and a&nbsp;bouquet of parsley, thyme and a bay&nbsp;leaf. Bring to the boil again and simmer for an hour and a half or&nbsp;so, when the ears should be tender. Cut them&nbsp;into strips, after&nbsp;draining them&nbsp;well… Egg and&nbsp;breadcrumb the&nbsp;strips and serve&nbsp;them when fried&nbsp;with tartare&nbsp;sauce."</p><p>And from the same book is pig's trotters with peas: "Soak half a pint&nbsp;of split peas all night in four pints of water, and the next morning&nbsp;cook them in the same water, adding salt. Cook them slowly for two hours, then pass through a fine sieve. Cook two pig's trotters for an hour in this soup, then add four leeks and eight sticks of celery cut into small pieces. Put in an ounce or two of butter, and cook until the&nbsp;vegetables are done. Serve as it is."</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/05/pigs-trotters-oil-gluten-free">Continue reading...</a>British food and drinkMeatFood & drinkVegetarianismLife and styleSat, 05 Dec 2009 00:10:14 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/dec/05/pigs-trotters-oil-gluten-freePhotograph: Photolibrary.comBe sure you don't make a pig's ear of it. Photograph: Photolibrary.comPhotograph: Photolibrary.comBe sure you don't make a pig's ear of it. Photograph: Photolibrary.comMatthew Fort2009-12-05T00:10:14ZFood for Fort: On chops, clingfilm and chestnut flour | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/14/chestnut-flour-chops-clingfilm
What's a Barnsley chop? Is it safe to cook with clingfilm? Our resident glutton solves these and other culinary dilemmas<p><strong>In March, </strong><a href="http://www.theguardian.com/profile/hughfearnleywhittingstall" title="Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall"><strong>Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall</strong></a><strong> gave a recipe for </strong><a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/mar/21/hugh-fearnley-whittingstall" title="castagnaccio"><strong>castagnaccio</strong></a><strong> using chestnut flour, which I&nbsp;can't find anywhere.</strong><br>I must say, I've never had much trouble in finding the stuff. <a href="http://www.shipton-mill.com" title="Shipton Mill ">Shipton Mill </a>makes its own, though it's&nbsp;"only seasonally available and in&nbsp;<em>very</em> short supply. Hence the price&nbsp;– £3/500g or £6/kg." I've bought Italian chestnut flour at <a href="http://www.waitrose.com/index.aspx" title="Waitrose">Waitrose</a>, and it's also available at some <a href="http://www.sainsburys.co.uk/sol/index.jsp" title="Sainsburys">Sainsbury's</a>. And try <a href="http://www.natoora.co.uk" title="natoora.co.uk">natoora.co.uk</a>, though at the time of writing they'd run out of stock and were waiting on a new delivery to arrive. Failing that, <a href="http://www.bienmanger.com/2F2330_Organic_Chestnut_Flour.html" title="bienmanger.com">bienmanger.com</a> sells an&nbsp;organic French chestnut flour at €6.75 for 400g.</p><p><strong>What is a Barnsley chop?</strong><br>It's a curious one, this. There's no mention of a Barnsley chop in the magisterial <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Oxford-Companion-Food-Companions/dp/0192806815/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1256905849&amp;sr=8-1" title="Oxford Companion To Food">Oxford Companion To Food</a>, or in the usually very reliable <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Taste-Britain-Hugh-Fearnley-Whittingstall/dp/0007241321/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1256905893&amp;sr=1-1" title="The Taste Of Britain">The Taste Of Britain</a>. <a href="http://www.janegrigsontrust.org.uk/" title="Jane Grigson">Jane Grigson</a> is&nbsp;silent on the matter, as are <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/jul/01/elizabeth-david-food-cookbook" title="Elizabeth David">Elizabeth David</a>, <a href="http://www.celebritychefsuk.com/chefs.asp?id=17" title="Marguerite Patten">Marguerite Patten</a> and <a href="http://www.hixoysterandchophouse.co.uk/" title="Mark Hix">Mark Hix</a>. Which is disappointing, because it meant I had to scour the internet. Anyway, putting together the efforts of <a href="http://www.britishfood.about.com" title="britishfood.about.com">britishfood.about.com</a> and <a href="http://www.gourmetbritain.com" title="gourmetbritain.com">gourmetbritain.com</a>, I can say with some authority that a Barnsley chop is made up of two lamb chops joined in the middle, because it's cut right across the loin. That said, <a href="http://www.gourmetbritain.com" title="gourmetbritain.com">gourmetbritain.com</a> adds,&nbsp;"Traditional butchers in Barnsley itself cut it as a very thick&nbsp;chop cut just over the kidney on one side only." Apparently an&nbsp;enterprising chef at the <a href="http://www.brooklandshotel.com/show.asp?id=home" title="Brooklands Hotel in Barnsley">Brooklands Hotel in Barnsley</a> was the first to serve it up.&nbsp;So that clears that up. Or does it?</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/14/chestnut-flour-chops-clingfilm">Continue reading...</a>MeatFood & drinkLife and styleGardening adviceSat, 14 Nov 2009 00:10:52 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/nov/14/chestnut-flour-chops-clingfilmPhotograph: Lorna Roach/The ObserverA Barnsley chop: like a double portion on the one plate. Photograph: Lorna Roach/The ObserverPhotograph: Lorna Roach/The ObserverA Barnsley chop: like a double portion on the one plate. Photograph: Lorna Roach/The ObserverMatthew Fort2009-11-14T00:10:52ZFood for Fort: pumpkin pie, pork pie and other predicaments | Matthew Forthttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/12/pork-pie-pumpkin-vegetarian-chorizo
Your culinary dilemmas solved<p><strong>A friend made us a&nbsp;divine chocolate harvest cake with a&nbsp;pumpkin cream filling when we visited Boston last year. The recipe includes tinned pumpkin, which I&nbsp;can't find here – any ideas? Or can I&nbsp;use fresh pumpkin instead?</strong></p><p>You can use fresh, but in my experience this turns pastry into something akin to blotting paper that's been left in a sink. The&nbsp;tinned stuff you need is Libby's – there's a general consensus that only Libby's will do – so badger your supermarket to get it in. Or try <a href="http://www.americansoda.co.uk/uk/American-Soda/Home/Baking/Pie-filling-+-Jell-O/Libby's-Pumpkin-Pie-Filling.aspx" title="americansoda.co.uk">americansoda.co.uk</a>, where it's £5.47 a can, or track some&nbsp;down on&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk" title="ebay.co.uk">ebay.co.uk</a> – search for it under "libby's pie filling", or&nbsp;in&nbsp;the food and drink part of the&nbsp;site's "home &amp; garden" section.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/12/pork-pie-pumpkin-vegetarian-chorizo">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleBakingAmerican food and drinkBritish food and drinkDessertMeatVegetarian food and drinkPumpkinPiePorkFri, 11 Sep 2009 23:10:17 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/12/pork-pie-pumpkin-vegetarian-chorizoPhotograph: Getty Images/RubberballA happy pig makes a happy pork pie. Photograph: Getty Images/RubberballPhotograph: Getty Images/RubberballA happy pig makes a happy pork pie. Photograph: Getty Images/RubberballMatthew Fort2009-09-11T23:10:17ZFood for Fort: Sponge cake, sprouting seeds and stockhttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/05/sponge-cake-sprouting-seeds-chicken-stock
Why does my sponge cake always separate? Plus other readers' dilemmas<p><strong>When I make sponge cake using two sandwich cake tins, the top layer lifts away from the rest of the cake once it has cooled. I try not to let the mix curdle, but it does sometimes, even after adding flour. Is&nbsp;this causing the problem? The top layer never comes away when I&nbsp;make individual fairy cakes.</strong><br>Several readers have experienced similar layer separation problems with sponge cakes, and even cupcakes. It could be for a number of reasons – a) eggs not whisked properly; b) batter not folded enough; c)&nbsp;too much raising agent; d) raising agent unevenly distributed. It's also possible that your oven temperature isn't what you think it is (usually 175-190C/350-375F/gas mark 4-5, depending on whose recipe you're following), so buy an&nbsp;oven thermometer. It's&nbsp;not worth taking chances.</p><p><strong>I've been sprouting seeds, and am methodical about cleaning the tray. My last lot of sprouting beet germinated badly, and after a few days there was life swimming in the water (water fleas?). Is&nbsp;this common? Has it come from the seeds? My tap water? I've cleaned the sprouter, but am unsure if&nbsp;it's OK to use again.</strong><br>Wildlife in your seed sprouting tray? Whatever next. It may have just been a freak act of nature, but it's unikely to have affected the germination of your seeds. Anyway, it sounds as if you clean your sprouter thoroughly, so there's no harm there. Sometimes seeds don't germinate properly for reasons best known to the seeds, as every gardener knows. Was the seed quite old? Some have a natural shelf life, and don't take kindly to being kept hanging around. I'd get a fresh batch of seed and simply try again.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/05/sponge-cake-sprouting-seeds-chicken-stock">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleBakingMeatFri, 04 Sep 2009 23:10:11 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/sep/05/sponge-cake-sprouting-seeds-chicken-stockPhotograph: GettySprouting seeds: sometimes seeds don't germinate properly for reasons best known to the seeds. Photograph: GettyPhotograph: GettySprouting seeds: sometimes seeds don't germinate properly for reasons best known to the seeds. Photograph: GettyMatthew Fort2009-09-04T23:10:11ZFood For Fort: The secret to tender meat and better fish batter, plus the fat and salt content in taramasalatahttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/27/food-advice-meat-taramasalata-fishbatter
Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for help<p><strong>What's the secret of tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat? Mine always ends up like tough leather.</strong></p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/27/food-advice-meat-taramasalata-fishbatter">Continue reading...</a>MeatGreek food and drinkFishLife and styleFri, 26 Jun 2009 23:01:00 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/jun/27/food-advice-meat-taramasalata-fishbatterPhotograph: Andy Butterton/PAThe secret to tender meat.Photograph: Andy Butterton/PAThe secret to tender meat.Matthew Fort2009-06-26T23:01:00ZFood For Fort: Perfect steak | Wedding cake dilemma | Sultanas and raisinshttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/09/food-for-fort
Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for help<p><strong>What is the best way to cook a steak? Under a grill or in a pan? Do you flip it over every minute, or leave it to cook on one side and then the other? And how do you know it's done? I've seen cheffy types press them to test for doneness, but how does this work? Are there basic timings? I never get it right. I live with a veggie, so steak is a rare pleasure I'd like to make the most of.</strong></p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/09/food-for-fort">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleBakingFruitDessertMeatFri, 08 May 2009 23:01:00 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/09/food-for-fortPhotograph: CorbisWedding cake. Photograph: CorbisPhotograph: CorbisWedding cake. Photograph: CorbisMatthew Fort2009-05-08T23:01:00ZFood For Fort: Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for helphttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/21/food-questions-and-answers
Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for help<p><strong>Dilemma: </strong>What are the best-value cuts of lamb (and beef and anything else, for that matter)? What's cheap but not horrible. Also, where to get it from - there are no butchers' near me, only supermarkets, where the selection is quite limited.</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/21/food-questions-and-answers">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleMeatGordon RamsayThe meat industrySat, 21 Feb 2009 00:01:00 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/21/food-questions-and-answersPhotograph: Rick Nederstigt/GettyPhotograph: Rick Nederstigt/GettyMatthew Fort2009-02-21T00:01:00ZFood for Fort: Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for helphttps://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/14/cooking-advice-spices-myrtle
Got a culinary dilemma? Ask Matthew for help<p><strong>Dilemma:</strong> When I find an old jar of spice at the back of a cupboard, I still use it. Am I losing out on flavour?</p> <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/14/cooking-advice-spices-myrtle">Continue reading...</a>Food & drinkLife and styleMeatSat, 14 Feb 2009 00:01:00 GMThttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/feb/14/cooking-advice-spices-myrtlePhotograph: Public domainPhotograph: Public domainMatthew Fort2009-02-14T00:01:00Z