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Everything posted by nickg112

I am going to try the above next week. Your procedure really has some great detail. I will let you know how it works out. I will take some photos. My gears are actually in good shape so i do not think that is a problem. I do seem to have some play in the shaft but that may be an issue with the contact points in the inner workings. Thanks

I appraise, buy and sell classic cars. From what I can see of the photos, if this car is original and running/driving with all the correct parts, the value would be $5,000 to $10,000. $5,000 if it is an older restoration with a fair paint job. Up to $10,000 with professional paint and factory correct interior. To approach $15,000, it would have to be close to a number 1 car on a scale of 1-6. A Concours restorations would be higher. This is the best that I can appraise this at with the limited photos and no description. I would need to see a the engine compartment and detailed photos of the interior as well as an accurate physical description. I hope this helps.

I appreciate all of the information. It has been very helpful. I am going to try two things. One is to take it apart and clean it. My backup is a unit that I am going to purchase at JC Whitney. This is the part number R257060B. It looks like a perfect fit and it comes up as a part that will fit in a 31 Chrysler. It is only $35 and worth a shot. It may be awhile before I get to this. I am making a new harness and will also be out of town for a couple of weeks. When I am done, I will post back and let everyone know. I have attached a photo. Does anyone know what the resistance should measure on the original unit?

I have a 1931 Desoto 8 cylinder sedan. I removed the gas tank and the fuel sending unit. I checked it and it is not working. I looked for a replacement but cannot locate one. Has anyone ever repaired one of these sending units? If so, please give me some advice. Also, I was thinking about buying a common 6 volt unit and modifying it fit my car. I am not certain of the ohm range that is needed for the new unit. I will need the same ohm range for the dash gauge to work properly. Any advice is appreciated. I have included a couple of photos of my fuel sending unit. Thanks

I have 4 Model As. Two of them have engine numbers that make sense to me but two do not. The two that are difficult to read are as follows. If I could not read a number, I put an "N" in the designated spot. 1929 Phaeton: AA22NN299 1928 Coupe: AA2965414 I did not think that engines have an "AA" code. My other two cars start with just one A. The Phaeton really seems to be all original. It looks un-restored with one repaint. I am not certain about the coupe. Any ideas about the "AA" designation?

Well, I got it running. It sounds great. The two major issues were the points and fuel. I cleaned the carburetor out by soaking for a couple of days and making sure that all of the orifices were clear. The dual points also threw me off a little. I finally figured that out. Thanks for all of the advice and help. It is much appreciated.

That really makes sense to me. Thank you for the clarification. I have set this up exactly as you described. My timing mark is off by 180 degrees. So according to your explanation, I still should be OK. That was my biggest concern as I knew that the motor may have not been assembled properly at one point or the chain was slipping. That is why I took the cover offer. Since the chain stops in the same spot whenever I have have it set to TDC as described, I assumed that it was not slipping. I know that there is a fuel issue, so I am using starting fluid in the cylinders. The car cranks but no sound of a start or even a backfire. Here is a little more background. When I bought the car a couple of months ago, there was an issue with starting it. I agreed to purchase the car because I liked it and got a good price. A day later when I went to pick the car up, the owner had the car running and it sounded great. The engine was strong, smooth and quiet. It appeared to run out of fuel and the engine stopped running as I watched. It sounded just as a car does when it runs out of fuel. It slowly died. Since I got the car home, I have not been able to start it. One other thing. Since I do not have a hand crank for this car, it is a little more difficult to set TDC. I know that I am still pretty close. I could understand that it would not run perfect because of a slight inaccuracy but I would think that it is close enough to pop or backfire. It does not. One other thought is the ezhaust manifold. The butterfly is jammed. I am not 100% certain if it is stuck on closed or open position. I was going to take this off to check it out. Could this be causing the problem? Thanks again for your help

I believe that I did everything today as described by martylum. The number 8 is in exhaust and number one is in compression. At this point, the timing marks were 180 degress apart. I set the distributor and made sure Number one wire was in line with the rotor and made adjustments as described. I know fuel may still be an issue but I used a little starting fluid and put some down cylinder 1 and 8. The engine turned but never was close to starting. I never heard any type pop, backfire or anything. I also verified that I have spark. I am not sure what to try next unless I have made an obvious error. Thanks for any help

I have a 1931 Desoto. It has a stock 1931 Desoto 8 cylinder engine it (220 CID). I am having trouble setting the timing, distributor, etc. I have taken the timing cover plate off to look at the timing marks. When I am at top dead center with number 1 piston, the timing marks are 180 degrees apart. Now I am wondering if number one piston is the piston that should be at top dead center on this engine. Does anyone have any ideas? I have a 1931 Desoto Instruction Book that does not say much about this. Any help would be appreciated. I am getting spark and fuel but the car does not fire. This car has a dual point distributor.

Thanks for the reply. I am pretty certain that it is not a Metropolitan. I just have not been able to find a photo of one like this. Years ago, someone marked saying it is a Nash. I appreciate any input or additional thoughts on this.

I have what I believe is a Nash radio. The problem is I have not been able to find one like it to tell me if I am correct. Can anyone tell me if this is a Nash radio and what model and year or years it is from. Here is a link to a site that I have it listed on. There are a few photos here: Nash Radio 1950, 1951 Thanks for any help

Thanks for all of the information. I am picking up the car this weekend or next. I will then start sorting all of the parts, etc. At that time, I will be looking for numbers on the vehicle and will post photos of exactly what I have.

Thanks for the reply. I may be wrong on the wheelsize. Did you think that the wheels were larger or smaller? I need to check that out. I did double check the wheelbase. I know it is definately 132 inches. Is there such a thing as a Stutz with this size wheelbase? I appreciate any additional information on the engines once you check your data. Thanks

I found and purchased what I have been told is a 1931 Stutz. I measured the wheelbase and it is 132 inches. The frame does not looked altered and I cannot find a number. This looks like a Stutz frame but I do not believe that Stutz made this size wheelbase. The car has 20 inch wheels. I found 2 Stutz motors, transmissions, doors, body, radiators, etc, etc. I am trying to identify what I have. Here are some photos: 1931 Stutz Does anyone have an idea what I have? Thank you for any help