Discussion Topic

On your way to Tahoe? Checkout the Bowman Valley off I-80/Hwy 20 past the Emeralds. Some of the best moderate sport cragging in the Tahoe area. So far about 70 routes - mostly 5.8 - 5.12. Free camping, excellent swimming. Larry Land lies below the cement dam/Bowman Lake, Candy Land and the Cove across the flume base of the descent road (Windy Point). Plus Scott Land, Ire Land, B-Word. All offer excellent climbing of all grades. Cheers.

No, Bowman Valley and the new Emeralds stuff is not in the new Tahoe guide. I don’t know much about the new Tahoe guide except that I think it is a .pdf/order on-line kind of thing but I am not sure. Page 24 of the old guide briefly describes B-Word, which is an excellent crag. In the gulley behind B-Word is the Frye Wall. Short powerful bolted climbs by Scott Frye. Josh Horniak is putting together a phenomenal/comprehensive guide to Tahoe similar to the current Vegas guide (Bowman/Emeralds over 200 new sport routes will be in his new guide).

Larry Land lies below the Bowman Lake cement dam (13.5 miles on Bowman Rd. from Hwy 20). Park at the bridge and walk up the road (blocked by a cable) along right side of the dry riverbed for 5 minutes. Cliff boarders the left edge of the dam (excellent swimming at the lake). All routes are well bolted and most are 5.11. Everything that goes out the big roofs is 5.12. The 2 routes on the right are 10s.

The Cove (across flume) and Candy Land (a couple hundred yards left of The Cove) are up and right of the road at the “S” curves after you descend from Windy Point (well before the Larry Land pullout). Hope that helps, and give a shout if you see us up there - we'll show you around.

In the same area I bolted (along with someone else) some easy routes on a 90 ft slab.... ~7 routes 5.6 to 5.10b. Park in same area described and head to the nearest wall through the trees...about a 2 minute approach.

Great little area to take beginners.

BTW, The areas Mike describes have some of the most solid granite I've ever climbed on.

Hi Mike, yeah it's me. The bouldering wall is mostly done. All but the far right side is dug out and the landing is nice and flat. The topouts and upper portion of the wall need some cleaning still. I've only had time to put up one route.... ~V3. There are probably another 10 problems that can go...up to V7?...probably a long traverse along the entire wall too. Cruxes will be the topouts. I was there last weekend and winter has solidified the landing and the fine dirt I dug out has settled.

Trips out there this year will be spotty since I just became a first time dad Tuesday....wish me luck.

Hope to finish up the wall....or anybody else for that matter.

For those interested park in same area just before the bridge and walk down the blocked off road (blocked off with a cable) to the right, walk down about 40 yards to a huge dead tree on the road and head right up the hill about 15 yards. about a 5 minute approach. 45 degree overhanging bouldering wall with a 15 foot lip, 30 feet long.

Most areas are shady in the morning. On sunny days it's quite hot in the afternoon at most of these climbing areas maybe withe the exception of B wall. Larry land proper gets the most sun. Cloudy/overcast days are best since you can climb well into the afternoon.

If the snow comes late the road will remain open longer. These late season days (Nov/Dec) are great because the air is cool even though you're climbing in the sun. 2 seasons ago I climbed at Larry land a week before Christmas in comfort.

You bet Steve. Josh and I climbed out there last night from 3pm-8:30pm and will be out there again tomorrow. The rock is still cool due to late summer but it was hot in the direct sun. Larry Land in shade until about 1pm, The Cove until 3pm. B-Word gets shade in the afternoon. It will probably be too hot in a few weeks. Like Jimmy said, you can always take a break mid day and swim.

Congrats on your new addition. I have two - 5 & 7 years old. They're great - I wouldn't trade them for the world but expect your climbing to drop at least a number grade! Hope to see you out there this summer when you get a chance to sneak away. Cheers, M

Bowman and the Emeralds were removed from the new North Tahoe / Reno / Carson City region guidebook because the book was already to large (1,300 routes)and I did not have time to finish that part, especially with all the new stuff going in there. Those areas are being included in the new guide to Northeastern California coming out next year. (see the camp4press.com website under the "upcoming projects" page for more info.) The Emeralds/Bowman is the last part of this guidebook that we will be working on. This book will be a completely comprehensive guidebook just like the new North Tahoe guidebook. I plan on being there most of this fall finishing it up. Any new route info can be sent to us from the camp4press website on the "feedback" page. Thanks.

Grew up in Nevada City, age 1-20,swimming in the clear waters of the Yuba River and jumping off the cliffs into the Emeralds are some of my best life memories. Spent hundreds of days having fun in the different forks of the Yuba River. Climb in the morning and evening, spend the hot part of the day jumping into the Emeralds, ahhhhh......blissful. Now I get to share this wonderful place with my kids, (who are 12 and 20)a cool place indeed!

way cool, I love this area and all the more reason to visit again. Mike, I too still use your guide as THE guide to the area. I'll buy any and all updates produced though. I love the drooling late nights pouring over what to or what I did climb.

Mike and Josh,
We saw you guys out there today. Thanks for giving me the verbal tour of the area. Bowman Lake rocks!! I hope to check out the new moderates at the Emeralds soon. Got a couple sends in at Candyland, and the swimming was great!

I/m still trying to rally somebody to drive up there with me this weekend. I like rolling with a co-pilot out of the bay on long drives (and back home when I'm exhausted).

Is the camping pretty easy to obtain? For Bowman. Are there car-camping spots around if the tent stuff is full? Is it BLM land? Can I target-shoot legally off the main trails (not important, just curious)? Anybody have topos? What is the best moderate crag, in the 5.6 to 5.10 range? How would I find it?

Take Hwy. 20 exit off I-80 and drive toward Nevada City several miles. Just before the bottom of the hill, turn right on Bowman Lake Rd (last 3 miles pavement ends - 2WD fine) about 12.5 miles to Bowman Valley.

Should be nice this weekend - cool. Best camping is in the valley along side the road instead of the lake. It is unregulated so you can car camp just about anywhere. Try the Candy Land/Cove area: park in the right side pullout at the "S" turn after the descent from Windy Point (about 12.5/13 miles down Bowman Rd off Hwy 20). Where the water flume exits the slabs there are a couple fun bolted routes both 5.8ish. The left route is long and you'll need a second rope to lower/rap off.

A couple hundred yards left of those routes is Candy Land. The 2 bolted routes on the big boulder are 5.10+ and the crack is 5.8. Just to the right of the big boulder is a black and white streaked wall = Candy Land ( 6 bolted routes/fun climbing): .5, .7, .8, .9, .10, .9. At mile 13.5 just before the bridge is the Larry Land pullout. A couple hundred feet up hill through the trees is the Fun House with 7 bolted routes (easy access to top via left side): .7-.10 (left to right). If you walk up the dry river bed from the bridge toward the dam (5 mins) you'll find Larry Land (good swimming up at the lake). Most of the routes start at 5.11 but are well bolted. The 3 routes on right side of wall are 5.10 but were wet last weekend. There's a bunch of stuff around the valley but those areas are the easiest to describe and should keep you busy for a couple days. We may be out there so give us a holler and we'll tour ya around. Cheers, M

Hey Steve, I assume you you're probably out this weekend. I have intentions of getting up there Friday evening and climbing Saturday.

Congratulations on your kid! You will likely have you hands full, along with with your wife. I'll be back and we can climb again. Probably better to hang with her as the little ones tend to wake up every couple of hours for chow and you wife will need your assistance. I understand completely. Trust me.

But Seth may be in the area, so I may hook up with him. And Carville gave us good beta to get us started in the area. If any other locals wanna hang let me know.

This is all tentative pending a call from a buddy who wants to redo Fresno Dome.

Wish I could join you guys.....really. You are right that I'll have my hands full with the baby.

I expect a full trip report.

If you get up to the lake for a swim check out the cliff about 50 yards out. There are overhangs there over very deep water....up to ~30 feet tall. Further out about 200 yards to the island is a cliff band on the right side ~50 feet tall. We paddled out on inner tubes a handful of times last Summer....had a blast! Beware the water is cold....inspiration to make it to the top.

Hey Mike - Thanks for all the beta and photos. My wife and I plan to head up to the area this weekend and will probably check out some of the moderates at Candy Land and maybe Fun House. Besides the long 5.8 route you mentioned upthread, should a rack of a dozen or so draws and a 60m rope get you up and down most routes? Hope we can cross paths this weekend.

12 draws will be fine. The only route that is longer than a 1/2 a 60 meter rope is the left most route at the Cove which is a couple hundreds yards right of Candy Land. That route is the first one above where the water flume exists the slabs (left edge of Cove). Everything else is an easy off with a 60 meter rope. There are very few crack climbs out there so almost everything is bolted with chain anchors.

I should be out there Saturday - look for a tan GMC Yukon with a box on the roof.

Spent the weekend there and only saw 3 other parties but never climbing at the same area as we were. We climbed at Candy Land, Fun House and The Cove. Hiked up to Larry Land on Sunday and there was a waterfall over the two 5.10 routes on the right side.

Thanks for all the beta! The weather was great - a bit on the warm side for me but the girlfriend loved it ;-)

The Cove routes on far left (slabs) behind the big boulder are 5.8+/5.8. Stuff on the boulder was put up years ago by someone else (.9-.11). In the main Cove area, the route on the left that goes over the high roof is Predator .11d (see image up thread), the other two are 11a and 11b (both climb through the lower roof close to ground). The right side route through the steep teirs is 12b. Several more lines are in progress. Should be a fun area (12-15 routes) when finished. Hope that helps. Cheers, M

Thanks, that definitely helps. Got on the 2nd route to the right of Predator - very cool line! :-)

Edit:
Wow!!! Just saw your image of the overflowing dam! When we were there in the late morning there was just a small waterfall on the right side of the wall (orange circle). We approached the area by crossing the stream twice (path shown in red) but at the time it was dry. There was one party climbing there when we left. Hope they made it out ok.

Bump Report. Shameless I know but the climbing is fun. Still a bit hot - temps hit mid 80s in Sac and Bowman's good. Larry Land good until about 1pm, Cove good all day. B-Word good in the afternoon. Cheers!

you guys dont have to drive down there.Squaw has it.
goes in the shade at 1.00 pm.
of course its a one hour walk as compared to a one hour drive!
edit; if you have your squaw pass you can ride the tram, lunch at high camp and hike down to the rawdoe, twenty minute approach.

Hello people,
I was up at Bowman couple weeks ago, it's AWESOME!
Free climbing, free camping, free fish! No tool! Feels like the good
Ole days! Does anyone know about a couple of steep walls
Around lake Faucherie? They look SICK! only way to get there is
By boat. I got a 14 ft 10 horse let's go!

Wow - Rado looks good. Howdy Brian - did you ever finish up that crag you were working on with Paul? You should come out to Larry Land. Had Todd up at here about a week ago. Yes, several good cliffs near Faucherie. Cheers, M

My wife and I were up at Bowman back in July and really enjoyed our time there. Off the beaten path, free camping, and enjoyable climbing. We met MrAlex (upthread) and his girlfriend while we were there.

On a side note, we swimming in a few of the pools below Larry Land. We didn't know the dam had overflowed a few days earlier until I came home and saw the photos - yikes!

Thanks, Mike for the beta! Here are some photos:

Candy Land area. Two routes on the big boulder on the left in front of the main face.

Credit: dourbalistar

Candy Land area, nearer to the base.

Credit: dourbalistar

Larry Land, taken from the side of the dam.

Credit: dourbalistar

Right side of Larry Land. No water flowing over top, but it had overflowed a few days before!

Credit: dourbalistar

Fun House area. If you're facing the cable blocking the road toward Larry Land, head to the right and uphill through the trees. Shady routes in the morning.

Credit: dourbalistar

Fun House area nearer to the base of the routes.

Credit: dourbalistar

Swimming hole below Larry Land. Not recommended! Dam in the background was overflowing a few days before.

Short steep wall a couple hundred yards right of the fortress above steel monkey wall. Obscured by trees - hard to see until you're there. Just keep following cliff base right of fortress until you bump into it. Seven bolted lines + killer/steep bouldering.

Also check out the Emeralds Upper Gorge. Better than it ever was. Approach from Spaulding Lake (west side) descend upper gorge via spill way - 1/4 mile past big dam. Rap in or hike down west side of rim trail to center gorge then walk up to upper gorge. Several of the routes are longer than 30 meters. If you rap into the upper gorge with a single 60m then use the Metolius rap anchor station off the narrow ledge. Red tag/pink tag first bolt routes are projects. Cheers, M

Unfortunately the gate's still locked. The walk is about 15 mins although some people ride bikes (5mins). The lower gorge is still blown out but the upper gorge has 21 new bolted lines - stellar climbing. To get there come in via post above (spaulding lake). Brad Johnson and John Robinson have bolted some fun new lines above steel monkey on the fortress and kudos cliffs - maybe 12 to 15 new lines. The Bear's Lair has 7 bolted lines and great bouldering (see posts above). Cheers, M

I just drove to windy Point on Thursday. It looked a bit scary getting to the route - the road was way icy.

So now my question is what is the typical time-line in the late spring, early summer? (Of course it depends on a number of elements). I'm guessing that that is never plowed and that they (NID, PG&E etc) access the dams via tracked vehicles?

Looks wonderful, I've always wanted to check that spot out - glad I did the recy. I will be back!

Yes. It's really good right now. We climbed yesterday 12/3 during the wind storms and it was quite nice. Sun from 10am-5pm and sheltered. Some icy spots on the road in, so you'll need AWD/4WD but no clearance issues. Cheers, M

Mike how do you approach the top of the upper gorge? Above you said from the west side of Spaulding but how do you get there? Is there a road starting near Fuller lake? I tried from the Spaulding boat ramp but it says no trespassing that way.

The Fet - don't go in from Fuller (too far). Approach upper gorge from Spaulding Lake Rd. Turn off Hwy 20 and park just before first gate about 1/4 mile (not down by boat ramp). Hike (20 mins) or ride a bike (10 mins) along west side of lake past big dam to spill way. Walk down gorge about 150 yards to drop off - rappel off Metolius rap anchors 100'. Gorge is good during summer = May - Oct even if it's 105 in Sac. Too cold now. Early season in a big snow/rain year they open spill way so watch out for high water flow in spring.

Or you can come in from the Emeralds (longer hike) on the trail system above Steel Monkey wall.

Thanks Mike, I've approached the lower gorge from below the Steel Monkey wall, but it's a pain going over that boulder outwash. From your last post I take it there's another trail system above the Steel Monkey wall?

Is this photo the approximate approach from Spaulding? This is what I thought it would be but there's no trespassing signs on the gate and I didn't want to piss off PG&E and jeopardize access. Do you walk over the big dam?

Credit: the Fet

I wouldn't want to be in that gorge if they open the spillway! Certain death!!

Your map is spot on although you should probably park at first gate (about 1/4 mile off Hwy 20) and not down further by second gate/road leading to dam. PG&E seems fine with "along the dam access" from Memorial Day through Halloween. Probably not a great idea to park/approach across dam other times which is fine because that's really the best season. It would be a bad deal to be caught in the gorge during a water release. If you traverse along the slabs above Steel Monkey wall toward the gorge it takes about 20 mins. The trail dumps you just above the middle gorge. From there you can follow trails down or up to access gorge. There is a fair bit to climb now in the upper gorge. Lower gorge is still pretty blown out. Bowman should remain good until first big snow. Give us a shout if you're out that way.

BTW - As of today, water is being released from Spaulding Lake making the Upper Gorge unclimbable. Everywhere else in the Emeralds is fine including the new crag below called The Bear's Lair - which is up (next cliff band uphill) and right (400 yards) of Steel Monkey Wall.

Hi M Carville, I met you a few times in the late 90's, I worked at the wall at SportsNation in Tigard. Once we went out to some new crag in Eastern Oregon with Don Cossel, I think they were calling it Area 51. Anyways, someday hope I can get back out to Bowman and check these new routes out.

I used to teach climbing to camp kids on the slabs above the road opposite the what i think is the beetlejuice wall.

Has anyone ever been out to Weaver Lake? Its a nice diversion, there is a small dam at the back with a big choss-tastic cliff/cave underneath. No climbing I remember, we are talking house of cards massive overhang made of shattered basalt stuck together with dirt and moss. At the bottom of the cliff you can walk back into the cave, 100 mtrs or so through an old tunnel which ends at a seeping couple railroad ties somewhere under the lake. Kinda scary, fun outing.

We had a lot of fun out at Bowman today rockin Candyland. That was my first time climbing there but certaintly not my last. It got a bit warm in mid afternoon and a beautiful pool awaited us across the road.

Mike pulling out the slot on "WTF" .11c at the Bear's Lair which is several hundred years up and right of Steel Monkey Wall. This short (40-50 feet) but steep wall contains 8 new bolted routes/excellent bouldering and is shaded until about 4pm. See back thread for more details. Emeralds, CA.

Went out today to the Emeralds. We climbed the new routes on the Kudos Cliff. Super solid rock and good movement. A stick clip was useful. Got the tour while we were there, and plan to go back Sunday to the Fast Food Wall. Step in to the Light .10c was classic and super fun!

^^^^^^^
Were you working that line on Sunday Mar. 28th? Kinda lots like the same route we saw someone, from afar, working that day. (On our way back from a day of exploring some rock in the "backcountry" around there.) Does that line go just to the right of a big roof? If so, it looked like a nice line through the overhanging section :) and if it is where I'm thinking, the roof just to the left of that line looked interesting, even if it turned out to be an aid route through the roof. Lots of good rock that looks like that out there.

Hoping to head up there this week to camp for a few days. Depends on if a dog sitting gig that the GF previously agreed to happens on wednesday.
Are there bathrooms around anywhere or is it all primitive?
Is there cell service or should I save this thread to the laptop?
This thread says 2wd is ok but mp says it's a 4wd drive road. We'll be in a big sprinter van which doesn't do too well in slippery situations.
I keep hearing about good swimming. Is that the case this year or is the lake super low?
Any beta on the deep water soloing?
Anyone gonna be up there?

Are there bathrooms around anywhere or is it all primitive? Emeralds has two drop toilets before you drop down to the Yuba. Bowman might have them near the lake but they are not near the climbing.

Is there cell service or should I save this thread to the laptop? Great Verizon coverage at Emeralds, I have none at Bowman.

This thread says 2wd is ok but mp says it's a 4wd drive road. We'll be in a big sprinter van which doesn't do too well in slippery situations. Road is a bit bumpy but you will be fine in your Sprinter.

I keep hearing about good swimming. Is that the case this year or is the lake super low? Both Spaulding and Bowman are high last I was up there. Stay out of the gorge below Spaulding. Water could be dumped at any moment. I don't know if the dam at Bowman can overflow right now.
Any beta on the deep water soloing? No
Anyone gonna be up there? No ;-(

Thanks labrat! I should have mentioned Bowman is our destination.
Looks like the dog sitting gig is a no go so we are a go.
So if anyone has any info on bathrooms (near camping rather than climbing) let me know.
Fire rings or bbq pits?
and could someone tell me

Mostly primitive that I recall at Bowman, but just before you get there is Lindsey Lakes off to the right. It's a FS or PGnE campground, with pit toilets and, you know, a lake to swim in. Just a couple miles before Bowman, and bring a fishing pole. Forget how much to camp, maybe $15/night? There are fire rings. I think you'll like the climbing there (bowman).

Sport rack will do you fine there. Climbed one single pitch at Scottland (I think), only because the sport routes were waay above my grade. Shitty gear on that. Stick to the bolts. There's a ton of em.

Most roads up that way are fair 4x4 roads that a subaru can easily navigate. If you camp at lindsey, or maybe even right below Bowman (free, no toilets) you can bike all over. Make a side trip up to Grouse Ridge lookout for a hell of a view. Or when you crest the hill coming up from the river and pass rucker lake, take a left and follow that around the mountain to where it looks out over the Yuba. Pick a road, any road, and go explore.

I just drove out there last week for the first time, mostly to explore and see the area.
I did bring my fly rod though no fish were too interested in what I was offering (bowman lake).

Seems like a cool area. Lots of bolted routes with easy access and really no people which is what appeals to me. Unfortunately I had no one with me to climb with so next time I'll need to fill that gap.

I had a 2 wheel with fairly low clearance. The dirt road is fine though just up the hill past Bowman I did not venture as the road just seemed to get more narly. Maybe it was just that one section. All the climbing seemed to be beforet that point anyway.

Hello every body. I would just like to say thank you it has been helpful and reassuring to read all the comments.

i have bolted some lines in the UK, well done to the folks developing this place. Its beautiful and feels adventurous to go there.

the reason for this message is because i want to take a few children there. I am looking for potential top ropes because the belay quality of my kids is not so good. is fun house a good place to start.

Yes. Fun House is a great place to take kids and beginners. You can get up to the top of routes by going up on the left side and the base of routes is relatively flat and kid friendly. Do be aware of snakes!

Had an outstanding weekend at Bowman Lake and the Emeralds. Climbed at Candy Land and Larry Land on day 1 and the Negativity Cave and the Fast Food Wall on day 2. The highlights were Reality Check, Porn Star, Rockin Roller, Fries with that Mantle, In and Out Urge and Half Full or Half Empty.

Many thanks to all of the people who have put in such hard work to make this area the fantastic place that it is. BRAVO!

This area looks fantastic and I'm hoping to make my first visit out there this weekend if possible. Great job to all the developers who have clearly dedicated a lot of time and energy to this area. Out of curiosity, did any of the guidebooks previously mentioned ever materialize (Horniak authored?)? I saw mention of it being included in the Local's Guide to Northeast California as well, but when I checked it out on Camp4Press it didn't seem to be. I know some of the Emeralds stuff is in the old Falcon Guide. Is the more recent stuff still more of a choose your own adventure situation or are there some topos/route lists circulating out there somewhere? I saw the few already posted, but what about Bowman area? Thanks all.

e ticket gone from floods. bunch on new development last 3 years - mostly middle gorge and main areas - kudos cliff. approach gorge from below along ridgy slabs above steel monkey then past kudos. about 30 mins from parking area by river. cheers!

Got up there for the first time this last two days. It started out a bit rough. Completely wet at Emeralds, so we drove on up to Bowman. Lots of wet rock there too, and we got rained off of Fun House after only a few routes. But the next was really nice and we got to check out Rediscovery Dome. Some really nice climbs. Can't wait to get back and check out a few other of the areas. Thanks for putting them up.

I know its been warm the past few weeks and I am itching to get up there and try some routes!! Any word on the road into Bowman being open or closed? I know its a tad early in the season, but thought I would go check it out! Thanks

Just spoke to Tahoe National Forest about the Bowman Lake Road which is currently closed at Hwy 20. She said because of large "sink holes" the road will be closed until June 1st!!! They have added a bunch of NO PARKING signs to the junction of the Bowman Lake road blockade and Hwy 20 making it difficult to even walk in. Anybody have any additional information or "alternative facts" or alternative approaches?