Inovasi proves that the term “small plates” doesn’t have to be synonymous with “let’s confuse diners into overordering so we can finally turn a buck on food instead of liquor.” Perhaps it’s because John des Rosiers packs a full plate’s worth of flavor into his precise little creations, such as a lovely grilled Dutch white sea bass with Anson Mills grits, green apple, “za’atar-seasoned crispy things,” and an Italian wild sour cherry glaze ($13). His deft touch peaks with the Scarborough Fair dessert: four mini scoops of intense parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme ice creams resting on phyllo discs. Small plate or not, this creation once was a true love of mine. Still is, actually.

TIP: The Tallgrass sirloin, dry-aged for six weeks and served with caramelized onion, apple, and more Anson Mills grits, is so tender you don’t need a knife.