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Just enough snow and ambiance to convince us that it was still winter!

Scotland mountaineering trip 2017: Day 1, Aonach Mor

Every team faced a difficult forecast today, but made the most of the venues and conditions.

Given the warm, wet and windy day, plus the lack of frozen snow, Aonach Mor was the choice for all three streams.

After the inevitable stop at NevisSport and resisting the shiny gear and kit, the Nevis Range gondola took us up to 655m and laid the platform for a good introductory day.

Out today we had three streams: winter skills, summits and ridges and winter climbing, plus a group who are with us, but climbing independently.

The winter skills team dropped off the broad re-entrant of Coire an t’Sneachda onto the East Face of Aonach Mor. Nick ran through the obligatory movement skills, ice axe arrests and introductory syllabus. This was a great venue with enough snow and well sheltered from the westerlies.

The summits and ridges team moved steadily up through the ski area and upper reaches of Coire an t-Sneacdha (not to be confused with the well-trodden namesake in the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms).

It then took in the munro summit of Aonach Mor, Aonach Beag and then dropped into the bealach above Coire Daim before traversing under the Back Corries of the West Face of Aonach Mor.

The climbing teams both dropped into Easy Gully from the plateau and made the best fist of the poor conditions they could. However, the independents then climbed back up and found a worthwhile climb on the East Face, with reasonably solid ice for ascent.

Overall, every team achieved their objectives, which goes to show that the environment, vistas and mountain journey deliver for individuals, and there are plenty of teaching points for instructors.

The first evening and day are always the busiest and chaotic of a Scotland trip, but everyone has enjoyed unhurried times together after dinner and things are looking up later in the week!

We won’t mention who managed to miss the last gondola down the mountain at the end of the day…

Introduction

I’ve made four Scotland winter mountaineering trips over the years and counting, and quite quickly went from being a participant to organising and leading them. I loved the overall experience that much!

Seeing is really believing with Scotland winter, but I wanted to give a flavour of some of the magic by looking back on my highlights from previous trips.

Cutting my teeth in Carrbridge

Walking into the snowy Cairngorm interior on a snowholing expedition

My first ever trip to Scotland was in 2010, based out of a bunkhouse in Carrbridge, outside Aviemore, and really was an extraordinary week.

It coincided with a handful of very hard winters recently, which was pure luck and meant I was spoiled for winter weather and conditions – blue sky days, low winds and volumes of snow.

Being cramped into a small bunkhouse meant lots of interactions with people, and I appreciated the different characters that emerged.

Joel’s enthusiasm for passing on knowledge and skills, and his pure, infectious enthusiasm for being together in the outdoors. Richard, the corporate banker who kept the drinks flowing and regaled us with amusing anecdotes.

There was Nick, a cheeky yet fatherly figure, with whom you could spend much time talking about philosophy, life or career. His hilarious stories of triumphant failures helped to bond the group together.

We spent much of our time in the Cairngorms, and I enjoyed the quick progression from the bread and butter skills on the first day; a fine Grade I gully, The Couloir I***, Coire an Lochain ; my first winter climb, Hidden Chimney III*, Coire an t’Sneachda; and a long haul over to the West coast to attempt the Ring of Steall.

The highlight of the trip was the last day on which we walked out of Glen Feshie in the eastern Cairngorms and took in an overnight snowholing expedition. My vivid memory was of a sea of snow, as we dropped down into a buried riverbed to spend the rest of the day digging in.

An eventful week with the minibus!

Disaster strikes!

The following year, buoyed up by my first taste of winter in Scotland, I helped organise the 2011 trip and we found a lovely traditional cottage outside Newtonmore.

However, this was the introduction to the real Scotland winter: high winds, changeable weather, fickle snow conditions. Despite this, there were moments of pure wonder, whether a burst of sun, an unexpected view or a quick freeze as conditions changed.

There were a couple of low points on this trip, which make it stand out even more!

I had the dubious pleasure of a ‘rain at all levels’ day. These are the sorts of days where you look at a poor forecast and try to make the most of it. Generally, it means starting in the rain, eating lunch in the rain on a summit, staving off hypothermia and then descending in the rain!

On the penultimate day of the trip, the weather deteriorated rapidly in the afternoon, leaving us battling through stormforce winds and blizzards to get back to the minibus. Even then the ordeal was not over: the high-sided minibus acted as a sail, almost toppling us over a steep bank at the edge of the carpark. The wind then whipped back the driver’s door and left it dangling by a thread.

Thankfully, Glenmore Lodge came to the rescue and we lived to see another day. Even the minibus hire company saw the humorous side of things, but raised an eyebrow the following year when we hired a van.

One of many special moments with our group

Constantly surprised

The year after, undeterred by the setbacks, we took a very big group and stayed in a wonderful old Scottish lodge in the Kinguisse area.

My reflection on 2012 was how we were continuously surprised and entertained as the week unfolded.

Long-returning attendee Sarah and started the week with a bang, taking in Ben Macdui, which is the second highest peak in the UK. It involves a committing walk onto the Cairngorm plateau, deep into the interior – what some call ‘going over the top’, as you enter a different world, cut off from civilisation.

We spent a day in the Creag Meagaidh area, which is a wonderful journey from a farmhouse, through stunted woodland, into the inner coire and up to the distinctive col called The Window, and finally onto a broad and expansive ridge. Throughout the week, the views kept opening up at unexpected times, leaving us in awe at the beauty of the Highlands.

On the last day, we got a special offer to be dropped off by the local estate keeper. Beforehand, we helped feed the local deer population. As we continued our journey on foot into a less well trodden area, the landscape continued to develop, gradually becoming more snowy and icy. At the summit, we popped out into bright sunshine and romped back to glen level in high spirits.

Striding forward for glory

Hiatus

With training, assessments and life, the next time I headed to Scotland for a group trip was 2014.

We stayed in the now familiar Aviemore area, accessible to the services of town as well as the popular Northern Corries.

By this time, I was a fully fledged Winter Mountain Leader, so had the pleasure of taking groups off on my own on big days out.

In contrast to 2012, we ventured onto a plateau shrouded in cloud – the whiteroom – and navigated carefully from point to point to the summit of Ben Macdui. The satisfaction of moving around safely and confidently in these conditions is huge.

The week wouldn’t have been complete without a big expedition over to the West coast, so we made the most of our last day on Stob Ban in the Mamores, close to Ben Nevis and Fort William. We had a bit of everything, which is what makes it special: a steepening ridge, navigational detour and deploying some winter skills with the rope.

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and...

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

2016-02-08T16:57:49+00:00

DF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, April 2015

“James’ passion for the Atlas and its people really comes across and adds to an itinerary that was organised and executed perfectly. This was a fantastic introduction to Morocco’s mountains and a great trip!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James...

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:04:15+00:00

IM from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

“Great trip, well organised and made that much more exciting and worthwhile given the extremely challenging environment we faced. James went beyond the call to make our trip memorable for each of us so a BIG THANK YOU”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success...

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

2016-02-08T17:05:35+00:00

MJ from Scotland / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, March 2015

"Had a wonderful memorable time. In the conditions which we were faced with, this was a great challenge. The success we enjoyed was in no small part made possible by the skill and encouragement which James provided and cheerful muscle power supplied by the porters to get our kit to the refuge."

High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our...

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:06:45+00:00

PF from Scotland / High Atlas 4,000m Peaks Trip, Feb 2015

“This was a fantastic week to climb in a remoter area with straightforward and easy access to the mountains. Our guides James and Alex were professional and approachable making sure everyone got from the experience what they could. I’ve already started to read the guide book to see what else is available!”

Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful...

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

2016-02-08T17:09:20+00:00

AS from UK / Logistics Only Package Trip, Feb 2015

“A really well organised trip which made life very simple for us all, and the pre arrival advice was helpful to. Totally worth the (modest) fees charged for a hassle free week. Would thoroughly recommend you guys to others.”

High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious...

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

2016-02-08T17:14:35+00:00

FD from the USA / High Atlas Alpine Ridge Trip, June 2014

“I had a fantastic time climbing alpine ridges in the Toubkal massif. From the amazing logistics help to the delicious prepared food at the hut, everything was in place to make the most of my short time in the area and get as much climbing in as possible. Climbing with James was a treat, and was a perfect mix of professionalism and friendliness. I was able to use and expand my skill set under a watchful friendly eye, and overall had a tremendous experience with some fantastic people.”

Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when...

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

2016-02-08T17:15:55+00:00

IR from Scotland / Mgoun Winter Ascent Trip, April 2014

“The booking form was straightforward and easy to complete and the attached documents concerning kit were useful to read when packing. We had a fantastic and successful summit day, James was an excellent guide, looked after us well and was good company throughout. We owe the overall success of this trip to him, a big thanks!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be...

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

2016-02-08T17:16:59+00:00

MA from Kuwait / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2014

“Thanks for the experience, the climb, the chat and the beauty of your town and mountains. I will definitely be on the lookout for more adventure with you guys… Give my thanks to Miriam as well, and to Mohammed for such a great job.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept...

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

2016-02-08T17:18:23+00:00

KS from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2014

“Miriam was amazingly helpful. Considering we booked relatively last minute she answered my (many) questions. On the trip James kept us up to date with the weather conditions which meant we always felt confident in his decisions. James was brilliant and kept reassuring us when we were using new skills. He was super patient when I was a bit apprehensive on the decent too. He also kept us up to date with the weather conditions.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys...

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

2016-02-08T17:19:37+00:00

AB from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Feb 2013

“Thank you so much for such a great trip. It was really good to have you and the other guys with us. I have been waiting to go on such a trip with the boys for a while and it really couldn’t have worked out better…perfect duration, great location and hard enough to give them (and me) a real sense of achievement. The company also helped to make it really memorable. Hopefully it’s given them the taste for it!”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our...

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:20:48+00:00

AF from the UK / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“I just wanted to send you a quick note to say thank you for all your help in organising our trip in Morocco last week, we all had a brilliant time and it left us itching to want to go back! Special thanks must go to James for providing the perfect mix of safety and fun, for which we were all very grateful.”

Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work...

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

2016-02-08T17:22:05+00:00

HC from France / Toubkal Winter Ascent Trip, Jan 2013

“A quick word to say that we’ve been very happy with our trip to Toubkal. Great experience and great work from James who’s done a brilliant guiding job! Please convey our good wishes to him and the whole crew (Mohammed, with whom we walked down to Imlil was very kind and the cook did a splendid job at this altitude!). Good luck to you guys!”

Winter Alpine Ridges

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike...

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

2016-04-07T09:08:37+00:00

ZR from Texas / Custom Winter Climbing Trip, March 2016

"Nothing but good things to say. Again I feel like James did a great job driving this experience for Mike and I, and I learned tons of new things that I hope to implement as soon as possible! The entire staff was very friendly and accommodating. But obviously the main goal of the trip was to get into the mountains and do some climbing and not kill ourselves in the process. We were able to accomplish this, almost exclusively because of the help of James and the mountain people, despite not great weather conditions most days! So thank you very much for the great experience!"