I'm not sure but I think it was the documentary Somm--a terrible, terrible film about the Master Sommelier testing--where a very famous chef said there isn't the profit margin in haute cuisine that there used to be. Wine is one of the ways a restaurant makes up the diminished profits on food.

I've actually got tickets for this next month. It's not so much a restaurant experience as it is a cirque-du-whatever plus "sleep no more" with a multi-course meal.. So, it's theater with food, as opposed to a restaurant with a show. Considering what a night out of dinner and a show would cost in this town anyway, it's not terribly unreasonable.