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I have put together a BBSHD and a BBS02 and I am very happy with both of them but I think I should try a DD hub so I know how to work on that type of drive. So after a lot of reading I decided on these two.

The one on the rim is an Edge 1500 and the other is a TCDM IGH. I wanted to use the TCDM on the Electra but there was no way to make it work with my wide dropouts. The Edge has a nice wide axle and the installation should be much more straight forward.

The TCDM will be laced to a 26" Alex DX 32 rim for a KMX trike that I have in the corner. It may also go on my standard cruiser for a while.

I removed the Edge from the rim and dropped it in the frame for some measurements.

I ordered some Sapim strong spokes and assembled the wheel with brass spoke washers and concave nipple washers to make the best wheel possible.

I have the rim and motor loosely assembled here in the frame to make sure I get the rim centered.

This is about the 6th wheel I have built and I guess I am getting better at it. It was easier to lace up a hub motor with one cross than a regular 3 cross wheel. Well it was for me. I don't have a spoke tensioner so I had to tighten them by ear and they all have a nice ping when tapped with a brass punch. I really liked the way this wheel came out.

Well that is all for now..............calfee

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This is a close up of the hub. You can see the brass washers under the heads of the spokes. You can also see that I have both rows of spokes pointed in the same direction. This gave me about 4mm of offset to really center the rim in the frame.

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Well I got it going today. While going through a hall sensor test I realized the hall wire connector on the controller was faulty. I pulled it apart and tweaked the female connectors on the 5 wires to fix the problem. I will probably replace the whole plug.

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I'll grab a picture of it in the daylight but I recently found a "new to me" way to tidy up Infineon style controller wiring. After figuring out best wire run/layout I pulled all of the wires out of the controller about as far as they would go. With much trepidation cut the wires about 1.5" outside of the controller. Next spliced the corresponding wires from the bike to the controller wires sealed with shrink wrap.

The cool part is that I was then able to push the splice section back through the rubber/silicone pass-through so they're now hidden and protected inside the controller. Looks very clean and there's plenty of room to shove the wires up inside the controller. Give it try with the stock wires on the controller and you'll see what I mean.

Gotta have a handle on solder/splicing and proper size shrink wrap. 100% decision on layout before you start is a good idea as well.

I'll grab a picture of it in the daylight but I recently found a "new to me" way to tidy up Infineon style controller wiring. After figuring out best wire run/layout I pulled all of the wires out of the controller about as far as they would go. With much trepidation cut the wires about 1.5" outside of the controller. Next spliced the corresponding wires from the bike to the controller wires sealed with shrink wrap.

The cool part is that I was then able to push the splice section back through the rubber/silicone pass-through so they're now hidden and protected inside the controller. Looks very clean and there's plenty of room to shove the wires up inside the controller. Give it try with the stock wires on the controller and you'll see what I mean.

Gotta have a handle on solder/splicing and proper size shrink wrap. 100% decision on layout before you start is a good idea as well.

The Infineon style cables running from the front to the rear of my bike are hard to hide. I have three cables: a 6-conductor cable for the CA, a 3-conductor for the 3-speed switch and a 6-conductor for the Ignition+/e-brake (regen)/temp sensor. I wonder if I shouldn't combine them all into one 15-conductor cable.

I contained the rat's nest of wiring at the controller by putting a trunk bag over it, and I tried to hide the rat's nest in front with wire conduit.

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Well I got it going today. While going through a hall sensor test I realized the hall wire connector on the controller was faulty. I pulled it apart and tweaked the female connectors on the 5 wires to fix the problem. I will probably replace the whole plug.

How did you figure that out? One or more wires on the connector weren't conducting electricity?

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How did you figure that out? One or more wires on the connector weren't conducting electricity?

Well I should have figured it out sooner. The first time I tried to connect that plug it was stiff and one of the male pins on the motor side got pushed out. I reset that pin and visually inspected the whole set up while muttering obscenities about Chinese junk. The connector felt and looked ok at that point so I just plugged things together. The CA to the controller, throttle to CA, 3 spd switch to the controller, and phase, hall, and power connected.

The CA was blank and I realized I had an "ignition switch" two wires to turn on the controller. I jumped that and the CA lit up turned the throttle and got a half second spin then nothing. I went right to the hall connector and worked it a few times and still nothing. Then I was worried I might have damaged something. Greenwerks called for a gab session and suggested I remove the CA and just connect the controls straight to the controller. I tried that and had no luck.

Grin ebikes has a nice trouble shooting section with a half dozen PDFs that everyone should look at. They lean more toward DD hubs but there is some good info there. http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html It was while doing the hall test and back probing that connector that the poor connection showed up. It was either the red or the black wire that had no continuity. The whole controller side plug came apart one wire at a time and that little tongue pushed up for better contact. Finally problem solved but not completely fixed because I cannot rely on that connector.

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The Infineon style cables running from the front to the rear of my bike are hard to hide. I have three cables: a 6-conductor cable for the CA, a 3-conductor for the 3-speed switch and a 6-conductor for the Ignition+/e-brake (regen)/temp sensor. I wonder if I shouldn't combine them all into one 15-conductor cable.

I contained the rat's nest of wiring at the controller by putting a trunk bag over it, and I tried to hide the rat's nest in front with wire conduit.

So do you have a PAS sensor on your crank? I can see I will have to make up a "6-conductor for the Ignition+/e-brake (regen)/temp sensor". I may not be to neat on this job because I may get a different controller http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-b...unner-bk.html# for this bike and use this controller on my KMC trike.

I'll grab a picture of it in the daylight but I recently found a "new to me" way to tidy up Infineon style controller wiring. After figuring out best wire run/layout I pulled all of the wires out of the controller about as far as they would go. With much trepidation cut the wires about 1.5" outside of the controller. Next spliced the corresponding wires from the bike to the controller wires sealed with shrink wrap.

The cool part is that I was then able to push the splice section back through the rubber/silicone pass-through so they're now hidden and protected inside the controller. Looks very clean and there's plenty of room to shove the wires up inside the controller. Give it try with the stock wires on the controller and you'll see what I mean.

Gotta have a handle on solder/splicing and proper size shrink wrap. 100% decision on layout before you start is a good idea as well.

Here's a crude picture. It was dark when I finished and didn't see the battery power routed funny like it is. I'm gonna squirt some silicone around the wires/holes but that's the general idea. I still have small JST throttle connector and a couple brake switch plugs running from the controller but I normally use connectors on motor wires near the axle for ease removing the wheel. This is all pretty clean and protected running in/out of the controller.

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I try to find out wich motor makes more sense for me on the Lux Fat 7D...
Can such a Hubmotor handle Mountains?
Do they have any torque related regolation or are they only trying to follow the PAS sensor?

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I have been doing work around the farm so I have been slow getting to this bike. Greenwerks called me the other day and gave me a pep talk. My first test ride was today. This thing really flies on the flat but I can see that the BBSHD will be better on hills. I have to figure out a way to combine the two.

Yesterday I set up the shifter. I have around 6 shifting cables and not one was long enough. This stupid bike is really long. I got a blue electrical butt connector and used it to splice a longer cable. Talk about hack.

I just slapped everything together. I got a Cyclone throttle/ignition switch from Luna and it came without that aluminum locking collar that holds it to the handle bar. I was able to fix it in place with a couple of wire ties while I wait for Luna to figure out what to do. The only things that are hooked up are the ignition "on/off" switch, throttle, and three way switch "low medium and high".

This is a totally different experience than a mid drive. It is like the pedals and chain are an after thought. No more worries about stressing the drive train or hearing the occasional creak. I flew across town in low, I estimate 25+ MPH, for 4 miles or so and the motor was hardly warm to the touch. The controller wasn't warm at all.

Now I have to work in my cycle analyst, PAS sensor, brakes switches, regen brakes, cruise? then rewire the whole thing for function and neatness.