My manifold cracked on the back, where the coolant line connects to the heater core. It snapped off the brittle plastic connector on the intake manifold itself. This is the second crack on this manifold. The other was up by the sensor, but was fixed with JB Weld. I don't think this one is fixable.

Any good write-ups on the intake manifold swap?

Anyone tried the revised Ford part? Opinions?

Anyone tried the Professional Products all aluminum intake? It's supposed to be a 25hp gain, plus pretty much a guarantee no of no more plastic cracking.

Advice welcome! I'm NEW to Fords. If you live in the Houston area and want to help me with this, please says so

I had the exact same thing happen to my 01 GT a few years ago. Simple fix; Remove the intake, cutoff the cheap plastic hose attachment point, install a properly sized brass hose coupler, JB weld the **** out of it. Then give it a day to dry and reinstall. I dealt with coolant leaks for months until I did this. Never had issue afterward.

I figured I couldn't be alone on this one! What a mess! I just hope I didn't damage the engine. It literally blew off and the temp gauge never even went up. I only pulled over because of a huge quantity of detonation that started, and the engine died as I pulled into the grass on the median. It still starts/runs (I turn it off after 10 seconds, as it's dry, it ran out most of the coolant), so I can move it ever-so-briefly in the driveway (had it towed home).

That said, if I take the time to remove the entire intake manifold, an entire new intake manifold is gonna go back on there! I'm just deciding which one. It already has a JB weld fix up on the front of the intake manifold and if nothing else I'll get the genuine Ford replacement ($199 online, free shipping). I was just wondering if anyone had tried an all aluminum intake and if any of them were worth it for a car that is just gonna be a bolt-on for now? I may do mild cams, headers, CAI, and a tune.

I really don't know how in the hell people manage to crack this intake so often in such weird ways. To answer your question no the aluminum ones are not ideal for your setup, they change air flow big time and are almost always made for higher HP N/A setups with headwork and cams. You will likely lose power in key locations of your powerband.

I have my stock plastic intake still sitting in my garage from when I swapped the KB on. It had around 85k miles on it and is in great condition. Don't see how some randomly crack like that.

There's a scalar value in the tune, Air Manifold Volume, that is as the name implies the intake manifold volume, in litres. The PCM uses this value when the throttle position changes to anticipate fueling needs, and for other calculations. The value for most new-edge 2V tunes is 9.625L.

If the intake manifold volume changes more than +/- 10% this value musty be changed accordingly.

i had this happen to me a couple of months ago. i asked around if the typhoon was worth the money and 99% of people said no. so i just bought the ford racing plastic replacement part for ~190. it was not bad at all to install. quite easy IMO

Mine let go a couple months ago, 3/4: inch of the rearmost inner wall of the sealing ring groove for the larger passage on the driver's side was just gone; and it was leaking from the backside of the crossover under the T-stat.

I went and looked at the Dorman manifold at Autozone and couldn't bring myself to do it--it (the Dorman manifold) is a universal, fits every PI 4.6 2V ever installed in any Ford, "thing" that comes with all sorts of brackets and spacers to adapt the thermostat housing and generator mount. The lower plenum is also only about 75% of the volume of the stock GT manifold.

So, I cleaned it all up with scrapers and wire brushes, degreased everything, and put it back together with suitable amounts of J-B Weld. I mounted the crossover to the manifold and waited 4 hours for the J-B to set up a bit; then mounted it onto the engine, torqued it down and let it sit for another 15 hours before refilling the coolant.

It's been and 2.5k+ miles since then, not leaking a drop (knock on J-B Weld)...