The Secret To Mastering Italy’s Best Tomato Sauces

A question I’m often asked is how to make the best so-called “marinara.” It’s one that vexes me as much as the perennial hunt for the best pizza that makes good headlines. How could only one out of countless others be “best”? To begin with,”marinara” is a misnomer. While in America the term applies to a basic tomato sauce, the root word comes from the Latin mare, “sea,” thus a seafood sauce.

» ASSUMING you don't live on the slopes of Vesuvius, it’s usually preferable to procure genuine bottled or canned San Marzano tomatoes over fresh tomatoes, even if your fresh ones look gorgeous (not a guarantee of flavor, nor of the meaty texture you need). Authentic San Marzano tomatoes, which are packed whole or in filets, are recognizable by the “D.O.P.” (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta) emblem on the label, which identifies Italian food products protected by law. Many tomatoes branded "San Marzano," aren’t. Another trick is the teaser, "Italian-style," which is a dead giveaway of crafty packaging. The difference in the price between real and a fake may be a dollar more, but a can goes a long way toward superbly saucing a pound of pasta.

» ABSENT D.O.P. SAN MARZANOS, substitute another canned plum-type of tomato. Avoid canned round varieties, and crushed, diced, pureed, or "sauce" tomatoes, which may not be made from the best quality fruit.

» GOOD SAUCE TOMATOES are flame-red, elliptical, and thick walled with scant gelatin (technically, placenta fiber) around the seeds. They are muscular, not flabby, contain little water and few seeds.

» TOMATOES PACKED in their natural juices allow other sauce ingredients to stand out as separate elements while the sauce simmers. Those packed in thick puree may suffocate your sauce. A parsimonious addition of tomato paste instead adds body and is the best way to control the consistency and round out the flavor.

» NEVER USE TASTELESS vegetable oil. Flavorful extra virgin olive oil is the tomato’s best friend. Finish it with un filo, a thread, of oil at the end as the Italians do, to experience its raw flavor.

» OREGANO in your sauce (a Greek habit) can be a bitter marriage. Nowhere in Italy is it added to tomato sauce for pasta.

» NO SUGAR! Basta! (Unless you’re Sicilian.)

» COOK TOMATO SAUCE GENTLY and quickly. It takes anywhere from five to 55 minutes, never more, depending on the recipe and assuming about a 3-cup yield.

Recipes for sugo alla marinara typically include seafood, and perhaps tomato — or perhaps not. In Naples “marinara” (from marinare, to marinate) is a bath of fresh tomatoes, olive oil, olives, capers, anchovies and garlic, which might be called salsa puttanesca elsewhere.Perhaps the name derives from the simple tomato sauce that fishermen brought on their boats to anoint spaghetti, or in which to simmer their catch.

There are endless recipes for tomato sauces in Italy. In Puglia’s northern provinces they are usually infused with olive oil and garlic; in the southern parts, with onion. Sardinia likes to add mint, or to tint and flavor it with their revered saffron. Emilia-Romagna fortifies it with butter and wine (red or white, depending). Calabria zaps it with hot pepper. Sicily, while under the shoes of the Saracens for 400 years, inherited the Arab sweet tooth and has a penchant for adding sugar (an American habit probably bequeathed by the legions of Sicilian immigrants).

Tomato sauce from tomato paradise

Sunny Naples, where the tomato was reputedly first transported from Spain on horseback in the 16th century, is tomato paradise. The sauce in all its permutations is more prodigious in this city than anywhere. It is Naples, after all, that gave the tomato sauce to Italy.

To make a great tomato sauce, you first need a great tomato. It is no small happenstance that on the slopes of Vesuvius, which towers geographically and mythically over Naples, clime and volcanic ash conspire to grow the world’s best sauce tomato. This is the pomodoro San Marzano of the enchanted hills and plains between Naples and Salerno.

Algae-rich dirt, torrid heat, scant rain and a long growing season combine to incubate a fruit of haunting flavor: a perfect balance of baritone sweetness and engaging acidity. Bottled on site, the pelati, as conserved tomatoes are called, meaning simply, “peeled,” are a staple in every Italian kitchen.

Such tomatoes were once a dream outside of Italy, but no longer. The ancient cultivar is being preserved to protect it, and with the foreign palate awakened to real Italian flavors, producers have hopes of paving the roads to China with this red gold.

The mother of all Neapolitan tomato sauces is pummarola (literally, “tomato” in the vernacular), though not surprisingly in this most chaotic of places, no one agrees on the recipe. Some versions are as simple as a fast sauté of olive oil, garlic, pelati, and a scrap of basil — simple but heavenly with the Vesuvius tomatoes. The most aromatic sauce begins with a soffritto (sauté) of carrot, celery, onion and parsley. In season, fresh tomatoes rule. Otherwise, pelati are used gratefully. Bottled are preferred, but canned will do. On its own, this pummarolais fruity and fragrant — what spaghetti, linguine or other dried pasta shapes should wear. As a foundation for other sauces, it exalts whatever else it’s stirred with (seafood, for example). In all, it’s as fine an expression of Italian tomato sauce as you’ll find.

Fruity Neapolitan Tomato Sauce (Pummarola)

Makes approximately 2 cups, enough for 1 pound of pasta

Pummarola is well suited to the texture of dried pasta, both strand types and short cuts. Spaghetti and linguine are especially compatible with it. It has a pleasant chunky texture, or a rich silkiness when passed through a sieve or a food mill. When sieved, it can be used as a foundation for other sauces wherever a prepared tomato sauce is called for, or for salsa bolognese and the whole tribe of ragùs.

1. Drain the tomatoes in a colander, reserving their juice; chop and set aside.

2. In an ample saucepan over medium-low heat, warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Stir in the garlic, onion, celery, carrot and parsley, and sauté until the vegetables are completely soft, about 12 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir until it’s coppery-colored, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes and their juice, cover partially, and simmer, stirring occasionally, gently until thickened, about 45 minutes. Stir in the basil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and blend in the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, or more to taste.

Note: If a smooth sauce is desired, take the pan off the stove when it’s cooked and allow it to cool somewhat. Position a food mill over a clean saucepan and pass the sauce through it, being sure to press out as much of the pulp as possible. Place over medium heat just long enough to heat through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon olive oil.

Attention: Don’t purée the sauce in a food processor; we don’t want to break the seeds.

Ahead-of-time note: The sauce can be made 4 to 5 days in advance of use and stored tightly covered in the refrigerator, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months. Whether storing it in the refrigerator or freezer, leave out the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Stir it into the sauce after reheating.

ALSO ON ZESTER DAILY

Julia della Croce

Julia della Croce

Julia della Croce

75 COMMENTS

Maureen Lisi-MacReady7·2·13

Julia,
As a former resident of Italy, an Italian American and a Chef Instructor I cannot applaud this piece loudly enough. You have captured the elusive butterfly on a pinhead! Your writings are always so informed without being superior. Reading your work is rather like spending the afternoon with a friend in the garden, in the kitchen or at a meal. I thank you!!!!!

Clive Ellis9·10·16

After eating pizza in the foot hills of Vesuvius I searched for an authentic Italian pizza sauce. I thank you very much for your informative work. Every word makes sense. I can’t wait to attempt your recipe.

Kathleen7·5·13

Dee Kaufman7·5·13

I enjoyed your article very much. Thank you. I wish more people would understand the importance of D.O.P. I am not Italian, nor do I have anything to do with any food company,
however I do feel strongly that San Marzano tomatoes COME FROM San Marzano, Italy.
For some reason I just hate the fact that people are buying tomatoes called San Marzano
tomatoes and they come from California. I am an American. I love America. But that is
why I don’t like seeing our California tomato produces cheating on the labeling of their products.
Americans buy labeling. They trust American looking labeling…like the clean white labels of
the California substitute San Marzano tomotoes. But look on the back of the label in the tiny
tiny 1 point type it says made in California. So why not call the San Mateo tomatoes?

And when chefs on the Foodnetwork, hold up cans of California tomatoes while at the same
time saying that they are special because they come from a special area of Italy, it gets me
crazy. It is like saying we are Americans and we cheat for profit and that’s okay. Even a pretty Italian girl is using bogus tomatoes.

If it doesn’t say proudly (in big letters)that it is a Product of Italy and D.O.P. on the label it is NOT a San Marzano tomato.

PtheElder7·5·13

Julia, I’ve made sauces similarly for years, but this piece is so compelling that I am literally going to get my car keys and drive to my local market forthwith to find some San Marzano D.O.P.’s and make some exactly from your recipe. What delicious sauce it will be! Thank you for such beautiful, informative writing.

Tim7·5·13

pierino7·5·13

Indeed “alla marinara” does refer to “sailor sauce” so I always add some anchovy to it.

Worth noting that San Marzano seeds are being exported to the US. However unless you have a volcano nearby the tomatoes won’t have the same flavor. There is even a company that uses San Marzano as a brand on what really should be a DOC product. In this case the company happens to be in Arizona.

Whenever I can find it I buy good tomato puree jarred and imported from Italy. It’s a lot looser than what’s typically sold here.

Barbara7·5·13

Julia della Croce7·5·13

To answer Steward Itter about why not just reduce the sauce more rather than use tomato paste: The longer you reduce, i.e. evaporate the tomato sauce, the further away you are getting from the clear taste of the tomato. Just that bit of paste (preferably high quality, Italian tomato paste) adds body without you having to overcook the whole batch in order to thicken. Meatless tomato sauces such as this one are a different type and have different properties than ragù, meat sauces, which do have to cook for a long time to enable the meat to tenderize. Meatless tomato sauces are best cooked for a short time for the best true tomato flavor. Thanks for asking. JdC

Julia della Croce7·5·13

I’d like to address Dee Kaufman’s note as well. In fact, any tomato that does not come from designated San Marzano terroire IS NOT “San Marzano” any more than “parmesan” made in Wisconsin or elsewhere is not parmigiano-reggiano. No matter what the label says, if it doesn’t show the bright yellow and red “D.O.P” emblem it is simply not San Marzano tomatoes. Italian producers have been fighting this sort of identity theft for years, as the imitations both discredit the real thing, and confuse the consumer. The only Italian consortium that has attempted–and won–thus preventing others from using the name of the genuine product for fakes, is parmigiano-reggiano cheese. It was an enormously costly undertaking that most small producers and consortiums can’t afford to do. Consequently, we have “San Marzano” brazenly written across red, white and green labels when, yes, they come from California, or a sly “certified” seal on the label that is designed to food the consumer into thinking they’re the real thing. If you “google” D.O.P. seal on Google images, you’ll see what it looks like and you’ll know what to look for if you want to buy the genuine tomatoes. I didn’t have enough room to explain all this in the article, so I’m very glad you asked! JdC

Judith Klinger7·6·13

“Baritone sweetness”…what a perfect & lovely description of a Napolitani San Marzno! Complimenti.
Location matters, and tomatoes from that part of the world taste unique….tasting of sea breezes, strong sunshine and volcanic roots, you cannot find this flavor anywhere else.
There is nothing ‘wrong’ with San Marzano’s grown in Arizona or California, they just taste different. I’ve been in long kitchen debates with Italians that swear the San Marzano has been overbred and is not what it used to be. My personal bias is towards whatever is ripest in our garden at dinner time!

Julia della Croce7·6·13

Barbara7·6·13

I agree with Judith. No matter how hard we try we can only get close to the same taste. The minerals in the ground and the climate in Italy is unique. I loved all the side bar info!!
beautiful article – look forward to more from Julia!!!

Julia della Croce7·6·13

You’re right that we can’t reproduce the same flavor as the Vesuvius tomato (and by the way, the San Marzano consortium recognizes the problem of cross-breeding that has naturally occurred and has taken steps to protect the original cultivar). To Judith’s point, few things taste better and make more sense than relying on the foods we can grown or produce locally. Besides, one must consider how much petroleum it takes to transport tomatoes from Naples abroad. No denying that genuine San Marzano tomatoes come with a high carbon footprint, just as other products do from faraway places. I make up for such indulgences by keeping them to a minimum, but the tomatoes (and estate-bottled Italian olive oil, and imported cheeses, etc.) are an addiction! Otherwise, I use locally grown and organically raised meats and produce whenever possible. Thank you all for adding so much to this conversation.

pierino7·6·13

Julia, here is where I will volunteer to mix metaphors and compare tomatoes and olives. I raised the point in this thread that the San Marzano deserves DOP status. However with regard to olive oil I’m not ashamed to suggest that California olive oils are superior to most that are coming from Italy. I know because I do seasonal work as a “sommelier” of olive oil. California olive oils are about where California wines were back in the 70’s—winning competitions and international awards. And as a bonus, you get a lower carbon footprint.
California standards as regulated by the COOC (California Olive Oil Council) are actually stricter than the IOC’s. As I’m sure you know, “Italian” olive can be a blend of oils from Italy, Spain, Turkey, Greece, N. Africa etc. But as long they are bottled in Italy they are allowed to say “Product of Italy” on the label. That’s the exact flip side of “parmesan” issue.
I live in an olive growing region so I have the opportunity to taste this stuff every day but especially when the first cold pressings start to arrive. Central Coast California has a perfect climate for olives. The growers are using cultivars from Spain (especially the arbequina) but also from Tuscany. And there’s the detail that the “Mission” and Manzanilla have been cultivated here for more than 400 years.
The great majority of olive ranchers here are small producers so the flavors can vary greatly from year to year. The larger ones will blend for a more consistant flavor. And please don’t mention the word EVOO to me ever! It’s my job to know this stuff.

Louie11·6·17

Louie11·6·17

Oh and p.s., just because you are a “seasonal work as an olive oil snob” does not mean that your flavor palate is indicative of anyone else’s nor does it hold any merit what-so-ever. For you to take the position that California’s olive oil scene is above Europe’s, is not only ridiculous but shows your arrogance. You come off as a self spurting know it all dick, that no one wants to be around. The type of co-worker that everyone avoids and rolls their eyes at. Guess what, it’s my “job” to know this stuff too…and I wholeheartedly disagree with you.

Catherine Faris7·6·13

I loved your tour of Italian regional tomato sauces–absolutely right on point! It goes without saying that the residents of said regions are convinced that their version reigns supreme. Yet as with most things, diversity makes for a richer, more varied palate. Re. the comment that asserts the absolute superiority of California olives/olive oils, I would argue that there is room in the marketplace for outstanding representatives from a variety of origins.

Dee Kaufman7·7·13

Most people who cook and are interested with food, including myself, would always choose, whenever possible, fresh, local ingredients. This new “farm to table’ is a bit silly…it was ALWAYS farm to table from the beginning of time! It is only in recent times with refrigerator trucks, airplanes, etc. that we would ship food long distances and so be able to have fresh strawberries in winter months in cold climates and so on. It has been advances in transportation and food storage that have allowed this. But in season and with very little time between picking or catching and serving, most things taste substantially better. True. Definitely the way to go.
BUT if you are talking about canned tomatoes…I suspect that for a big market such as the east coast from Maine to Miami, the ‘carbon footprint’ for cans from California vs. cans from Naples, Italy is not at all significant. We are talking about roughly 3,000 miles vs. 4,400 miles.
I don’t think we need lose too much sleep over buying real San Marzano tomatoes with regard to the ‘carbon footprint’.

Julia della Croce7·7·13

I’m talking out of of both sides of my mouth here, I know, but in light of what has brought about global warming (our petroleum-heavy lifestyles), I do think about what I buy in terms of carbon footprint. E.g. all that petroleum (related wars, all of it…) just to move suchlike as bottles of water around… But we are not moving around as many cans of tomatoes or wheels of cheese as bottles of water, are we?

pierino7·7·13

I believe Julia has more to say on the subject of California olive oils so, at her request I’m adding these further notes.

I love the subject of California olive oils, in fact I’m almost messianic about it. Beginning with the larger producers I like California Olive Ranch. They consistantly deliver good flavor and they actually made the Saveur 100 last year. Pasolivo put my region on the map, again they are large enough that Zingerman’s carries their stuff.

Paso Robles is better known for its wines but there are some great small producers here. A personal favorite is Olio Nuevo. The guy who makes it has become kind of a friend and mentor. Art Kishiyama has only 10 acres and raises three types of olives. He does no mechanical harvesting and produces only 7,000 bottles. He has an amazing history. His family was interned during WWII and he was the first baby born at the LA County Fairground when it was used as an assembly center for the camps. I wrote this up for my blog http://eggsinpurgatory.blogspot.com/2012/09/terroir.html.

The other local producer I like quite a lot is the Robbins family’s label “Fandango”. They do a number of styles. But I think the most popular and successful imported cultivar is arbequina.

From up in Napa I like McEvoy and Talcott too.

Not all California oil is great, some of it is pretty bland. I love that big punch in the mouth style. One of my best friends grew up in Rome and now lives in Assisi. He took me to an olive press out in the boonies of Umbria where the locals took their olives to be milled. The first thing that hits you is that overwhelming smell of ripe olive. It has stayed with me ever since. That’s what I look for when I taste oils. I prefer strong and complex to wimpy. When you taste a really good oil there’s a delayed reaction. Hopefully you get that pepper finish at the back of your palate after a second or two.

Deborah Dal Fovo7·11·13

Love your work Julia and thank you for tackling the misuse of the term ‘marinara’ to describe a simple tomato sauce head-on. As an Italian chef and cooking instructor, this is probably the biggest (and most puzzling) misconception about Italian food that seems to have stuck in the minds of most. Hopefully your well-written article will help to chip away at the problem. The recipe is lovely and your article informative. Grazie!

Andy7·12·13

Caterina Shyne7·18·13

So fitting to read this amazing article on San Marzano tomatoes, Marinara sauce, and the simple pomodo sauce.
Would love to talk to you further, about my passion.
Would love share my idea by e-mail
Looking forward for your response Grazie, Caterina

Julia della Croce7·18·13

With a name like yours, Caterina, I’m sure you have plenty to say about the topic and I would love to hear from you again. You can write to me here so that other readers can benefit from your experience. Thank you very much for writing to me. JdC

David W.8·1·13

I had the benefit of making this sauce, and I must recommend to all you readers: If you want to know what authentic Italian tastes like, you have to make this at home. Please, please try it out. It’s a strange, happy thing when something that requires so little effort results in such a great dish. The outcome is a light, almost fruity, delicious, authentic Italian dish. The tomatoes are key, and they were very easy to find (I went to Whole Foods in Raleigh, NC). I tried a bit of them raw before I added them, and they really are qualitatively different than other tomatoes; please use them. I don’t think I’ll ever buy another tomato again if I don’t have to. Buy them in the glass jar if you can; it makes a difference.

Dee Kaufman8·2·13

This is IT. This is the recipe I’ve always wanted and never had, not being blessed with an Italiangrandmother. I wanted one go-to recipe for Italian tomato sauce and this one is perfect. (“Perfect” meaning exactly the taste I was looking for as though it had come from the Italian grandmother I never had!)

I made a double batch and served it two days running to two groups of friends (including one
who did have an Italian grandmother) and everyone just loved it. And of course I used real
San Marzano tomatoes!

paolo8·26·13

Julia della Croce8·27·13

Thanks for writing with this link, Paolo. For readers’ information, Paolo Ruggiero heads Danicoop, a cooperative for San Marzano D.O.P. tomatoes, located in Salerno, the heart of the San Marzano tomato production area. The website is a terrific source of information about the San Marzano D.O.P. tomato, with an English translation.

SOOLMAZ2·25·14

Dom5·18·14

After years of searching for the holy grail of Italian tomato sauces I believe I have just stumbled across it. I have just made this sauce today but using good quality tinned Spanish plum tomatoes as I live in Spain and can’t get hold of the San Marzanos here. It’s amazing!! The best tomato sauce I have ever made. The taste, texture and aroma is divine. I’m looking forward to splashing it over some pasta tonight for my dinner. Thank you so much for this recipe. I’m in heaven right now!

Julia della Croce6·17·14

LP8·5·14

I’ve been looking for a traditional recipe to use with my homegrown Organic San Marzanos that we grow every year on our Iowa farm using an organic dry farming method. We actualyl grow all the ingredients on your recipe so it seems like the perfect fit. i’ll let you know if it turns out as good at most here say it is!

Matt8·19·14

Hi Julia, I’m weird with textures, and I really love a very smooth tomato sauce. As such, I love to make my sauce in a food processor, to get everything mixed uniformly. I know you mention to not use a processor, but what do you think? Does it make a huge difference?

bearmon20109·4·14

Ivan1·10·15

Hi Julia, thanks so much for the recipe. I can’t wait to try it out. I live In Indonesia….and it’s almost impossible to find San Marzano canned tomatoes. Everytime I cooked Marinara sauce I always having problem with the acidity from the tomatoes. I’m using the brand called Cirio. It’s made in Italy. Any tip for reducing the acidity? I really hate to use sugar…makes the sauce taste different. Again thanks so much for the recipe.

Julia della Croce1·11·15

Ivan, the Italians add a small carrot along with basil to tomatoes to foil the acidity. I agree, sugar makes tomato sauce taste different. It is not done in traditional Italian cooking. You might try other tomato labels, particularly if you can get tomatoes preserved in cartons rather than cans. Pommi is an Italian brand of boxed tomatoes that are quite good with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. I don’t know if you are able to get them there? Do try different brands. If you can find any canned tomatoes with the “D.O.P’ guarantee on the label, I think you’ll find then excellent. Do let me know.

Julia della Croce1·11·15

Julia della Croce1·11·15

MATT, I’m afraid I was not aware of your comment until now. If you don’t have a hand-cranked food mill (they’re not expensive), you can push the sauce through a large sieve to make it smooth and it will work perfectly well. Regrets for not seeing your comment until now. Keep me posted.

Anne1·27·15

Julia, thanks for a most informative article!
I’ve just returned from a trip to Naples with my partner who’s Italian, where we had the opportunity to interview and observe a number of master pizza-makers. My goal was to learn the traditional method for making an authentic pizza sauce. I have a question regarding the marinara sauce you describe and pizza sauces. Would you say the marinara recipe you give is more for pasta and sea food dishes than pizza? It seems in Naples, pizza-makers are making a very simple sauce by opening cans of pelati, roughly processing them and adding olive oil and salt, no heat or additional aromatics. Wouldyou say this is the tradition for pizza sauces you’ve observed? And that even though a pizza may be called a ‘marinara’, it isn’t made with the traditional marinara sauce. Lastly, do you know if the cans of DOP San Marzano pelati are heat-treated at all before packaging to remove their skin? Many thanks!

Julia della Croce1·28·15

Anne, you are right, the marinara sauce is for pasta or used as a foundation for other sauces (adding seafood, for example). Pizza “sauce” is nothing more than what you say, using good San Marzano tomatoes, good olive oil, and a scrap of fresh basil. It’s not as much a sauce as a topping, not watery. Yes, the tomatoes do need to be blanched to remove their skins. I hope you’re able to see this reply. Buona cucina.

Paulina2·9·15

Julia della Croce2·9·15

Paulina, you certainly can use fresh tomatoes as long as they are the thick-walled San Marzano or “Roma” type tomatoes. Most a tomato other varieties, even if they are good eating tomatoes, are too watery and have thin walls and don’t make good tomato sauce. First blanch the right tomatoes in boiling water for no more than a minutes. Slip off their skins, cut them in half and push out excess seeds. Chop or mash them and use as you would good canned tomatoes. 28 ounces canned tomatoes = 2-1/2 cups skinned, seeded, and chopped fresh tomatoes. You can still stir in a bit of tomato paste, as I have called for to give a little body to the sauce. There is nothing wrong with this if you are making pommarola or ragù. Buon lavoro! Feel free to ask me any additional questions you may have.

Kenny8·17·15

Kerry Russ9·17·15

I have juiced a bushel of locally grown marzano tomatoes and came up with 25 quarts of nectar.
my problem is that after 5 hrs of gentle reduction I have produced a thick, tasty but seedy looking sauce. How do I smooth the sauce out?

Julia della Croce9·17·15

The easiest way to strain out the seeds and skins is to pass the pulp through a food mill. If you don’t have one, you can use a large strainer, but you will find this alternative very tedious. Best to go and buy yourself a food mill if you don’t already have one. This simple piece of equipment is a must for pureeing anything. Buon lavoro!

Robert2·29·16

Julia della Croce2·29·16

Yes, Robert, you can use pommarola as a base for ragu` and other sauces that call for tomato sauce. To use it as a base for ragu`, first pass the pommarola through a mouli or a sieve to puree and set it aside. To make the ragu`, make the battuto (chopped onion, carrot, celery, parsley) and sauté it over very gentle heat in good olive oil for about 10 minutes. Add the ground meat and sauté to color it lightly. Add red or white wine and let it evaporate, about 3 minutes. Now add the sieved pommarola and simmer the sauce at barely a bubble, covered, for about one and a half hours. It will have a richer, deeper flavor using the pommoarola rather than simple tomato passata.

Susan3·30·16

Thank you for this recipe and all the responses to questions. I have gained so much knowledge. I am off to he market to purchase some tomatoes. I love Kassandrinos estate olive oil. I have never tasted anything like it before, it is absolutely my favorite. It is Greek.

Mark Cohen4·12·16

First time I have read any of your material……..I am impressed with your knowledge and will read more. One of my great uncles (we are Jewish) owned/ran one of the very first Italian food importer/distributorships in the U.S. out of Philly back in the early part of the 20th century. I grew up in NY and gravitated towards cucina italiano in my teens, started teaching myself to be a pizzaiolo at age 13 using the chef-boy-ardee pizza mix in a box. At age 24 I was taught the art of pizza making by the best pizza chef in San Francisco in 1973 who in fact was from Salerno.. I then continued to study/master until this day (54 years) and needless to say I eat some pretty classy pizza because at home we can always use the best ingredients (doppio zero, dop san marzanos, fior di latte/bufala, unfiltered oil, calabrian origan, etc). I have some very used peels and stones! I have lived/worked in numerous countries over the years and been fortunate to study under a variety of very good chefs from Italy. When I lived in Hong Kong back in the early 80’s when I would take a group of friends/clients to the best italian restaurant in those days the first course was always pizzas and I would promptly go in to the kitchen and make them since the Sardinian chef was my buddy….and we kept a big bunch of dried calbrian origan in the cabinet for just this purpose. I remember he and I both had a fondness for finishing of pizza with hand broken big chunks of room temp reggiano.

As for tomato sauces……the heart of this article……you are spot on and know your stuff. I agree with everything you write. I do however often use passata with my napolitan sauces along with pelati instead of concentrato; but frankly both have good uses and the way Italians dry tomatoes and make their paste creates a very rich/full flavor you don’t ever get from cooking down tomatoes. One more point: I am even more impressed with your recipe when you call for “seeded and chopped”. It is very rare to see any chef seed…..but I can tell you……not another human being has bought more cases of pelati in the last 40 years as I have (i only buy pantry staples by the case including alici/tonno/olive/pelati/etc). Every single can is completely seeded before I use the tomatoes. I do not run them thru a food mill because to catch the seed you need to use the smallest size and that of course grinds up all the beautiful filleto while I prefer to crush by hand or quick run in the food processor so I can control the texture and keep it as chunky as desired depending on the use (with meat braises I like more texture to start since it cooks for a long time. When I make pizza sauce I refuse to see even one seed in the mix. So how I do it is I dump all the cans contents in to a big bowl, I remove the tomatoes to another bowl, then one by one i hold each tomato over the bowl of juice, tomato in the palm of my hand, with stemmed top towards my wrist and end tip towards my middle finger; i use my thumb (or a sharp pairing knife) to slit the tomato from just below the core section down to the bottom; I then manipulate the tomato open a bit, then dunk it up and down in the juice until the seeds/juice come out; the I use my thumb to open it at the core and pull out the core all the way to the bottom of the stringy section and throw that out…..only leaving filetto. I further fanatically hand pick off any seeds remaining. I then strain the juice when done, and put in the crushed tomatoes for the sauce ingredient ready to go. A lot of work…..but worth it to get out canned seeds (unlike fresh seeds in a fresh tomato quick sauce).

Julia della Croce4·14·16

I see we’re on the same page Mark, though I have gotten less and less intent over the years about taking all the seeds out unless I intend to strain the sauce after cooking. Important is to use really good plum-style tomatoes, good extra-vrgin, and all fresh ingredients. It’s amazing how many have the idea that Italians put oregano and lots of garlic in their tomato sauce. All wrong! Happy cooking. Ps I wrote a book about tomato sauce, titled “Salse di Pomodoro: Making the Great Tomato Sauces of Italy” (Chronicle Books. It’s out of print now, but you can buy it on Amazon. You might enjoy it.

Eqbal6·23·16

Julia, I have been looking for authentic/real deal Italian gravy recipe for quite some time. I think I may have found it, thanks! I usually make a meat gravy in a slow-cooker, takes about 4-8 hours depending on what temperature I set it to cook. Would the gravy go bad if after it’s done, I add it to the slow cooker to the meat and let it simmer and cook? For that recipe, I add 2lbs of beef (I don’t eat pork), onions, garlic, 15-20 oz of gravy (I will sub in your recipe than what I usually use), stewed tomatoes, and the usual spices/herbs (s&p, basil, etc). Let me know what you will change, thanks!

Julia della Croce6·23·16

Hello Eqbal. You can use the pommarola as your basic tomato sauce when making a meat-and-tomato sauce (“sugo” in Italian–I’ve never been able to warm up to the Italian-American “gravy,” which to me just means a brown meat gravy thickened with flour). So, whether using a slow cooker or traditional stove top method, you can proceed by first browning the meat lightly, as you say. You won’t need additional onion, or stewed tomatoes or other herbs because there is already onion and other “odori” (the base vegetables and herbs you set out with for the pommarola). Add the pommarola you’ve cooked previously and simmer it over the very lowest of heat for about 45 minutes or equivalent in a slow cooker. High heat will toughen the meat and scorch the tomato, gentle is the way. This is all assuming you already have the pommarola previously made. However, if you want to make the whole thing from scratch, try making it this way:

Long-Simmered Meat Sauce (Sugo)
Makes approximately 2 cups

This complex, fragrant, and delicate meat sauce, versions of which simmer in pots all over the Italy in preparation for mid-day Sunday lunch is one of the marvels of the Italian table. While I have listed ground beef in this recipe, a combination of veal, pork, and beef can be used for an even more complex sauce. It is typically used between layers of homemade lasagne in, and it is the classic sauce for homemade tagliatelle. Pappardelle and fettuccine are also suitable matches. It is well suited to macaroni cuts as well, both because they are sturdy enough to support its meaty consistency, and because the meat becomes captured in the curves of the pasta. The most compatible macaroni cuts are fusilli corti (short twists), gnocchetti, and rigatoni. Pass freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.

1. Drain the tomatoes, reserving their juice. Chop the tomatoes and set the tomatoes and juice aside.

2. In a large, wide Dutch oven or large, deep skillet over low heat, warm the olive oil. Stir in the onion, celery, carrot, and parsley and sauté until the vegetables are quite soft but not at all browned, about 12 minutes. Keeping the heat very low, add the ground meat. The meat must heat very gently, only enough to color it lightly on the outside— preventing it from hardening allows it to absorb the flavors of the other ingredients and to become delicate and creamy. Stir in the salt and wine. Simmer very gently for several minutes until the alcohol evaporates and the liquid begins to be absorbed by the meat and vegetables.

3. Now stir in the tomato paste. Allow it to warm together with the “odori” for several minutes. Add the tomatoes and juice. As soon as the sauce begins to simmer, turn the heat down as low as possible (if your burner cannot be regulated to a setting that is low enough, insert a flame tamer between the burner and the pan.) Cover partially and continue to simmer, always over the lowest possible heat and stirring occasionally, for about 4 hours. If the sauce begins to dry out, stir in a little bit of the meat broth at a time. Check for salt and pepper and adjust.

Note: This recipe is sufficient for saucing 1 pound of pasta.

Ahead-of-time note: This sauce can be made 3 or 4 days in advance of using and stored tightly covered in the refrigerator or it can be frozen for up to 3 months.

Eqbal6·23·16

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I completely forgot about carrots & celery to the sauce. I remember trying “Allegro Pasta Sauce” it was good for a ready-to-go canned pasta sauce that was used in the restaurant. They had listed celery & carrots in the ingredient label, I’m sure your recipe would be just as good, if not, better. Also, I don’t use any wine in my cooking. Hopefully that doesn’t tamper the flavor too much. I’ll try that in my slow cooker for 4-6 hrs on low heat.

Julia della Croce1·16·17

martin kirschner3·26·17

unfortunately here in Brazil,you really can’t find San Marzano tomatoes. Perhaps if went to Copcabana or zona sul, but you would no doubt have to pay a small fortune. There is a brand of Italian tomatoes which I use here called Mastroiani Pelata Pomadora and its very good. It isn’t San Marzano, but the end result is wonderful I like to make my sauce with a few salted anchovies which I cook in the olive oil and before I throw in any veggies. They should melt away into the pan. I then add the veggies and after moment I’ll throw in a half cup of red dry wine. I reduce that a bit and the I’ll add some home made chicken demi glace which I keep in the fridge. I let that reduce for about 10 minutes and I add my tomatoes which I crush by hand and then the juice. I’ll let that come to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. About 20 to 30 minutes later….Voila!!!

Julia della Croce3·27·17

What’s important is that the “pelati” are thick-walled and fleshy with relatively few seeds and little water. From the sounds of it, you’ve been able to procure just the right kind, even if they are not from the San Marzano region. And it sounds like you are an intuitive cook with an instinct for what goes well with what. Happy cooking!

Debbye6·11·17

J9·13·17

Hello I made the sauce just as listed as above in the original post. This is my fist time making any type of tomatoe sauce, needless to say I was excited because the list of ingredients captured my interest. Gave me an authentic feel to it, my home smelled like a Brooklyn mama lucias restaurant.🤤🤗

The only question thing I want to ask if the sauce is supposed to be very acidic? I did blend the sauce after it was done being heated. It looks like a orangish color and purée texture. Any suggestion for a soft, not so overpowering acidic taste?

Micky Amato10·19·17

No way. Being first generation Canadian and of Italian descent and specifically from Alife, which is close to caserta. My Nona just finished her incredible life on earth and the best sauce that was ever made is… san Marzano tomatoes, a punch of salt, at least a head of parsley or two and plenty of garlic. Like a fistful. That’s it, that’s all. Basta