I ran into Ed and Sandman at Cutthroat Pass 2 days ago. This was
exciting, because I had last seen Ed at Elk Lake the end of July, and
by my reckoning he did about 640 miles in 3 weeks. It was also
exciting because they may be the first thru hikers to complete this
year. I gave them a hug with congratulations, then they were off. With
their speed, I'm sure they're finished.
I decided that the weather was so good, and with Dave's encouragement,
and help, I'd hike from Rainy Pass to the border, then back to Hart's
Pass. We left my car at Hart's Pass with food and water, then took
Dave's car to Rainy Pass and hiked up to Snowy Lakes, about 11miles.
Dave was only going to stay overnight , but we had enough food for him
to stay an extra night. We spent an off day hiking up to Upper Snowy
Lake and climbing up to the base of Glolden Horn Peak. It was a
spectacular day, and fun hanging with him and not feeling pressured to
put in miles. We said goodbye this morning and went opposite ways.
Much of this section of trail follows ridgelines, and is often crumbly
and you need to pay attention. The views are awesome, though, the best
I've seen this year on the PCT right in my own backyard (I know, I
didn't see the Sierras). The day was cooler, and that was good for the
tough switchbacks up Glacier Pass. I thought I was going to go all the
way to Hart's Pass because of a lack of water, but I found a sweet
campsite just south about 4 miles. I'm next to a fork of the Methow
River, in a lovely meadow. I've got a resident mule deer who kept me
company at dinner, and a local marmot who doesn't seem happy that I'm
here. It was a great day hiking, and I feel pleaantly tired.
August 20
The wind kicked up in the night, and that kept me awake a bit, but
mostly I slept well. As I hiked into Hart's Pass, I ran into Turbo,
who had jumped ahead from Old Station, on the advice of Billy Goat and
No Trace, to Manning Park to go south. I ran into Scot also, who was
doing the same thing. Scot knew me because No Trace had given him my
name as a trail angel up here. At least I was able to help him-I gave
him water and camping advice. It's been so much fun to run into thru
hikers along the way. I've met several backpackers too, and they've
helped with water and camping advice. A few women have said to me with
astonishment "you're alone?". It seems fairly normal to me now,
although I still don't like it. I did a shorter day, because when I
got to Hart's Pass I had to resupply and move my car. A ranger said
the forecast for Saturday night calls for snow above 7000 feet. Turbo
said he had ice on his tent this morning! It was chilly where I
camped, although not that bad. I hope the weather holds. I'd like to
do 18 miles tomorrow, then the border the next day. There is a lack of
water along this stretch, otherwise I would have tried for farther
today. I'm camped about a mile from Windy Pass.
August 21
A cool day, bit overcast. I got slightly lost for about 45 minutes by
spacing out and taking a side trail that in retrospect was clearly not
PCT material. On the way retracing my steps I met Lee, who is section
hiking the PNWT. He had good maps(I've been kicking myself for not
bringing better maps-my gps hasn't worked at all here), and showed me
my error. We hiked together until lunch, when I realized I had lots of
miles to where I wanted to go, and he wasn't going as far. I passed
through some gorgeous country(Rocky Pass is quite the switchback), and
with some darker clouds moving in, I ended up at Woody Pass, where Lee
also landed, as well as 3 women who are also going to the border. So
it feels like a nice group, and I have to admit I feel safer. Lee has
done the PCT, and many more trails, so he has lots of stories. He
shared some snacks with me, as well as a bit of Yukon Jack in hot
chocolate-yummy!
August 22
Woke to drizzle, and generally wet and socked in conditions. Lee and I
left the campsite about 7:15, hoping for dry weather. We had
everything-dry, rain, some sun. I heard from other hikers it had
snowed on them. We slogged along, without many views, then I said
goodbye to Lee at Castle Pass, where his trail veered off. He was a
good guy, and I enjoyed his company. I went on the 4 miles to the
border. Along the way I met Boots, who took my picture for his hiking
website. Them, the border and the famous monument. It was a bit of
torture getting there, because the trail was terribly overgrown. I
think I will call the FS and tell them when I get back. It's not right
that a thru hiker has to slog the last 4 miles through such a mess.
Bojangles, a young thruhiker, was at the monument, so we took each
others pictures. It was a good moment, although sad in many ways that
things didn't work out and Y wasn't there. It was early , and raining,
so I decided to beat through the bushes 4 miles back to Castle Pass,
where I set up a wet camp. A quick dinner, dry bag and inside tent,
and at 6pm I'm settled for the night. I hope the weather clears.
August 24
Fabulous day, the kind where I felt great the whole day. I've been
wearing a different pair of shoes this stretch, the Montrail Streak,
and they've been great! For the first time all summer I've gone hiking
and haven't had to dive into the first aid kit for blister help. Super
clear day, tremendous views, blueberries on the trail-what more can
you ask for? I met several day hikers enjoying the scenery, and they
were all interested in my journey. It's been so much fun talking to
people along this stretch.
So, my last (I think) PCT miles for the year, and time to be home for
awhile. I'll trail angel in September, starting with Yellowstone and
Tahoe Mike and Vino next weekend. Looking forward to that!