The strobist blog is very informative and highly recommended reading for many reasons, but please note that it won't translate directly into what you will likely do with your RZ67 and ISO100 film. If you want decent depth of field, you need F/11 or F/16 on your RZ67, and small strobes will give you F/4 and F/5.6 whenever you fire them indirectly or through an umbrella. I stubbornly resisted studio flashes for a few years but finally gave up last winter and got a D-Lite 4, and the difference in the pics is like night and day.

I bought a set of old Novatrons off ebay for dirt cheap. The set-up came with a power block, strobes, umbrellas, stands and a nice case. All I had to buy extra was a flash meter. There is plenty of used stuff (barn doors, snoots, etc.) for them on ebay and the company is still in business in Texas if you want new.

If you are interested check out Ken Rockwell's site for plenty of info on Novatrons. He uses them for his website photos of cameras and lenses.

While it's certainly true that hot shoe flashes are underpowered for 6x7, I can get f/16 at 1m from the mini softbox. So it's quite usable in a pinch, especially at ISO400. The fact that you can sync the flash all the way up to 1/400 really helps when you're out with strong ambient.

While it's certainly true that hot shoe flashes are underpowered for 6x7, I can get f/16 at 1m from the mini softbox. So it's quite usable in a pinch, especially at ISO400. The fact that you can sync the flash all the way up to 1/400 really helps when you're out with strong ambient.

You might look into a used set of Speedotron Brownlines as well. They can be had used for little money and they're still supported (new flash tubes are available as well modifiers) and manufactured. The only drawback is that they don't offer a lot of adjustment (full, half, and quarter).