If
you’d like to look good in your jewelry and be a smart buyer, consult
the Jewelry Handbook. It’s like a Jewelry 101 course on the
fundamentals of jewelry metals, settings, finishes, necklaces, chains,
clasps, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, pins, clips, manufacturing
methods and jewelry selection and care. Written for professionals and lay
people, the Jewelry Handbook outlines the benefits and drawbacks of
the various setting styles, mountings, chains, and metals such as gold,
silver, platinum, palladium, titanium, stainless steel and tungsten. It
also provides information and color photos on gemstones, birthstones, and
fineness marks and helps you select versatile, durable jewelry that
flatters your features.

"A
great introduction to jewellery and should be required reading for all in
the industry."

Gem
Market News, reviewed by Richard B. Drucker, GG

"I
have to admit, when I first see a “handbook” written for consumers, my
expectations for trade interest are low. This book surprised me. As you
will see from the review, I felt that not only did it serve some valuable
advice for consumers, but it also offered valuable information for the
trade, specifically those in retail sales and perhaps even more for
jewelry appraisers.

The first chapter defines jewelry in its basics including fine,
costume, and antique. From there, the book moves into jewelry metals. The
comprehensive list includes the newer metals now being used for jewelry
such as titanium, palladium, and tungsten. Advantages and disadvantages
clarify why someone would opt for one of these. So, early on in this book
I could see how appraisers would benefit. Most appraisers are not jewelry
manufacturers, nor have they experienced retail selling of all these
metals. Yet, consumers are buying these metals and need appraisals.
Understanding the differences is key to accurate descriptions and
valuations.

Basic gem facts, birthstones, and anniversary stones, along with
cutting styles are next for this book. Newman does not cover a great deal
of detail here, though the cutting styles are great to see in color
photographs. She does mention that her other books cover this topic in
greater detail.

Manufacturing methods again made me
think of the appraiser in me as I read this chapter. There is a difference
in manufacturing methods and they do have differences in durability and
cost. Here again this chapter serves as a nice primer for appraisers and
salespeople to learn and understand the importance of manufacturing. For
example, many in our industry probably do not know the differences in
die-stamping and lost wax casting. Did you know that a die-struck ring of
14K is harder than a cast ring of 14K, and therefore will wear better?
Another valuable lesson is the difference between hand fabricated and
handmade. Yes, there is a difference.

Among the other chapters are valuable lists and photographs that
will help consumers and trade regarding chain styles, finishes, and
decorative techniques. Advantages and disadvantages are covered again for
these. Clasps are also described and photographed.

The rest of the book is primarily a “how-to-select” book. It
covers rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches, pins, and clips. A
chapter also exists on tips for men with their jewelry. The last chapter
accordingly is on care of jewelry. Basic cleaning tips are good for
consumers. Newman also includes a Gem Reference Guide chart that she has
compiled from information in an earlier Gems
& Gemology article and an article published by Howard Rubin. The
chart covers ultrasonic uses and other comments on care and durability.
While charts such as this are readily available, some jewelers might like
to have this one, too. Consumers will find it interesting, especially
since some have purchased ultrasonic cleaners (mild strength and
industrial strength) so having this information is helpful for them.

The Handbook does well to cover its topics in concise chapters. It is
not a long book in total text due to the great volume of photos that
compliment the text. This makes it an easy read and easy to find those
valuable lists and details. I am sure that we will reference this book in
our appraisal library.

Australian
Gemmologist

Excellent
value for money—both for potential retail purchasers of jewellery, and
for gemmologists and others employed in the jewellery industry. . .

As
with previous books by this author, advice offered with respect to
jewellery is very practical, simply yet clearly expressed. Potential
purchasers of jewellery are advised to purchase a copy of this book, read
its content carefully . . . and then proceed with your proposed purchase .
. . much better informed than you previously were.

Gems
& Gemology

"informs
and delights the end user of jewelry by explaining everything from why we
use jewelry, to manufacturing methods, to what type of jewelry is best for
which face shape. The 16 chapters are liberally illustrated with large
color photos to help explain the different terms, cutting styles,
textures, and techniques discussed. The first six chapters cover specifics
of jewelry, gemstones, metals, and manufacturing, the balance of the book
delves into selecting flattering necklaces, brooches, and rings, as well
as many details about the care of jewelry. The basics are there as well as
the unusual. Helpful and practical tips are given at the end of each
topic, summing up the pros and cons. For example, silver is subject to
consistent tarnishing but is the most affordable of all metals, whereas
tungsten is, for the most part hypoallergenic, but cannot be sized.

I
found the chapter on manufacturing methods to be the most helpful, because
few laypeople have a good understanding of what is involved. This chapter
focuses on four basic methods of making jewelry—casting, stamping,
electroforming, and hand fabrication—with bullet points on the
advantages and disadvantages of each. Included is an interesting
discussion on handmade vis-à-vis hand fabrication and the
potential for confusion with these terms. Newman counsels jewelers and
salespeople to clearly define what they man when the use the term handmade
to customers.

This
book is a great informational aid and sales tool for the counter person
when addressing questions from potential buyers of fine jewelry. In
addition, many of those in the trade could use it as their primer to fill
in information not normally covered in standard classroom and jewelry show
lectures.

The
Jewelry Handbook is not all facts and data—the chapters on
selecting rings, necklaces, bracelets, and brooches begin with a paragraph
or two weaving in aspects of jewelry history, which helps put the item in
context. This knowledge could easily become part of a sales conversation
to entice customers to stay awhile at the counter!

Adornment

"
. . . One of the most interesting features of the book are the photographs
that take you step-by-step process of lost wax casting, how hand
fabrication of jewelry works, how a stone is set, and more information on
jewelry for men is covered as well.

"This
is a book that is extremely useful to have on the shelf to answer any
basic questions you may have ranging from those about buying jewelry,
understanding how it is made, what various marks mean, the different types
of chains, standard lengths for pearls, and almost any other question you
could imagine asking."