Wireless Trolling Pro

Wireless Trolling Pro (WTP) is a small company that designs/sells, cable and wireless trolling motor driver modules. Our models utilize technology which allow fishermen to precisely control trolling speed with 'power efficiency' built into the units.

Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Blog:3

(WTP-PWM)-vs-(HHO-PWM)

17
Feb 2016

Wireless
Trolling Pro (WTP)

This
blog will deal with the performance of a Wireless Trolling Pro (WTP),
Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) designed for trolling motors vs the the
use of 60 Amp Hydrogen Hydrogen Oxygen Resistor Capacitor (HHO RC)
PWM units found on the market today. To start the conversation we
need the specifications and operational functions of the HHO PWM's.
Then lets build the HHO RC controller unit to provide the some of the
features as the WTP Model 40 Amp unit that sells for $89.95.

The
term (HHO RC) PWM, stands for Hydrogen Hydrogen Oxygen Resistor
Capacitor controlled Pulse Width Modulator. The (HHO-PWM) is used for
separating the hydrogen molecule from water for use in improving the
performance of gasoline engines.

12-50V @ 60 Amps
12V*60A=720W(max),
60
is the Max current in the Spec sheet

PCB
Size:90x51mm(inch:3.5"x2"x1.2”)

Features

No
Fwd/Rev Switch

No
Voltage Monitor

No
Current sensing

No
Soft Start

No
Speed
Control Pot and
Fwd/Rev Sw with
6' Control Cable

No
PWM case

No
Controller Case

Parts
List HHO RC Controller

Each Total

1
HHO Controller 40Amp $17.00 $17.00

1
SPST Switch Motor
Fwd/Rev $00.80 $0.80

2
1Form-C 40Amp Relays $2.50
Each $5.00

1
8
Pos Terminal Blk (40Amp) $6.99 $6.99

20
#10 Cable Terminals $00.30 Each $6.00

2
#12 Red
Wire
$0.25/ft 1Ft
$0.50 $0.50

2
#12 Blk
Wire
$0.25/ft 1ft $0.50 $0.50

1
# 12 Red Wire(PWM) 3ft $0.75 $0.75

1
# 12 Blk Wire (PWM) 3ft $0l75 $0.75

16ft
5
Conductor cable $0.30/ft $1.80 $1.80

40
Amper Breaker $4.77

Projectt
Box RadioShack (PWM) (6x3x2) $4.99

Project
Box RadioShack (Speed Controller Fwd/Rec Sw) (3x2x1)$3.49

Total
Cost HHO RC Controller Components $52.34

WTP
40Amp-40lb PWM $89.95

Not
counting your labor you save diy
$37.61

The
cost comparison
is just about the same.

The value lies in the full
features, i.e. soft start, auto Fwd/Rev, battery monitor and shut
down, current monitor and shut down and water proof cases. The real
danger
of the DIY is the Fwd/Rev sw function. If you are running at ¾ speed
and drawing30-35 amps and the switch goes from Forward to Reverse you
can cause serious damage to your craft/motor
not to mention you personal safety. The power dissipated in Fwd/Rev
of a motor drawing this current is horrendous. Make no mistake, you
need to set your speed to o, then sw and go from Fwd to Rev, then
accelerate your speed.

A
little HHO info for you.

The
HHO
RC PWM generates a frequency
and
pulse
with modulation
using
a single chip
usually a
555
timer.
This device
is
the
mainstay of
numerous timing
circuits
and has
been a workhorse for the industrial controller community for over 35
years. That in itself speaks for the utility or this small timer that
is still being used. WTP uses a micro-processor for its enormous
versatility, which allows for among other things, current sampling,
voltage sampling, PWM interface speed control and switch status
functions, to
name a few.
I
hope this is
helpful.

Please
feel free to contact WTP for any help or questions you may have.

Check
the specifications and features of all WTP products at
WirelessTrollingPro.com

Thanks and happy
fishing, kayaking, or just casual boating, but do it with a WTP PWM.

An HHO or
Brown gas generator is an interesting and often misunderstood
technology.
The Brown gas generator uses electrolysis to split
water (H2O) into it´s base molecules, 2 hydrogen and 1 oxygen
molecule.
This is why it is often referred to as an HHO gas
generator. The HHO in itself is not an alternative to gasoline but an
additive to boost the efficiency of the engine. Gasoline engines are
unfortunately not burning gasoline to its full potential.

The
average gasoline engine in a car is about 18% to 20% efficient. That
leaves a lot of room for improvement and Brown gas is one good way of
improving the efficiency. The reason for this is simple, the hydrogen
is highly flammable much more so than gasoline so when your engine
ignites the hydrogen the explosion ignites the gasoline with much
better results (cleaner, less waste and fewer emissions) than it
would otherwise have done.

Some
basics the burn speed of hydrogen is 0.098 to 0.197 ft/min (3 to 6
cm/min) compared
gasoline´s 0.00656 to 0.0295 ft/min (0.2 to
0.9 cm/min).

The hydrogen explosion is so fast that it
fills the combustion cylinder at least 3 times faster then the
gasoline explosion and subsequent ignites the gasoline from all
directions (it is like putting fuel
on a fire), instead of just a spark in one end of the combustion
cylinder, and we would like to do that because the gasoline only has
a short time in the combustion cylinder and if its not fully burnt in
that short amount of time then it just goes out the exhaust and is
lost. It is also preferable to ignite all of the gasoline when it is
under maximum compression in combustion cylinder to get the maximum
amount of energy out of it (this is a small time window), whonce the
piston starts going down the energy transfer from the explosion to
the engine becomes less efficient.

The hydrogen´s higher
burn temperature and explosive force is such that it cleans the soot
that collects in the engine (it is like having the engine consistent
maintains) and with a cleaner engine you get better mileage and fewer
oil changes .

Sunday, June 14, 2015

How
the PWM can save you more current when operated correctly.

Thrust to Amps
Ratio

This Blog deals
with the actual current to thrust ratio for a 30lb electric trolling
motor and will show why a PWM can save current and increase your time
on the water. The following chart is based on a 30lb motor mounted on
a KAYAK. The run time for each measurement was sufficient to
establish the Amps-MPH average values. The Amps were tested with a
meter, the MPH with a GPS and the battery used was a 12Vdc 75Ah lead
acid.

The chart shows a
clear picture of what happens as the current is increased in your
motor. In position (1) the motor draws 7.2 Amps and yields a speed of
1.6 MPH, the math shows that you get 1MPH for every 4.5 Amps you
burn, or you should get a top speed of 30Amps/4.5Amps = 6.67 MPH
when your motor draws 30 Amps.

So far so good.

The other positions
(2), (3), and (4), show a very similar linear trend in Amps per MPH.
The idea that you get a 1 to 1 relationship between Amps – Thrust
is totally destroyed in the last 2 positions (4),(5) MPH.

Position (4) shows
that you get 2.8 MPH drawing 15.3 Amps. If there is a 1 to 1
relationship, then if you double the Amps from 15 to 30Amps your
speed should double also from 2.8 MPH to 5.6 MPH.

If the 1 to 1
relationship were to actually exist then when you add the Amps and
MPH from position (4) you would get a higher MPH.

The MPH goes from
3.8 to 4.8 MPH and the Amps used goes from 20.70 + 5.46 = 26.16Amps.
You now have 30.00-26.16 = 3.84 Amps left. If we draw the full 30Amps
we should be at (3.85/5.46 = .705 MPH ), add 4.8Mph to .705 MPH and
you get 5.5MPH.

The tests show that
in position (5) you are only doing 3.5MPH not 5.5MPH, like the 1 to 1
ratio indicated. So what happened to to all the extra Amps you had.
The truth is they are wasted as heat in the armature of your motor.

They contribute to
slow deterioration and fatigue of your motor, they are slowly wearing
out your motor and you are going no-where fast. The power wasted in
your motor will never translate to thrust output from your prop.

But wait! You say, I bought a 30lb thrust motor and it draws 30 Amps,
why don’t I get my full 30lbs of thrust.

You do get your full
30lbs of thrust, it just happens before you draw 30Amps of current
from your battery.

It all comes down
to this: the characteristics of a Shunt Wound DC Motor has
what I like to call the 80% / 80% factor. The motor is very
efficient at the 50% current level, 15Amps yields about 80% of your
thrust.

If you have a 30lb
thrust motor then you get about 24lbs of thrust when you draw 15Amps
of current.

30lbs thrust
x .8 = 24lbs of thrust. Now you have 15Amps left and 6lbs of thrust
left.

Take ½ the
current left (7.5Amps).

Now add the
15Amps to the 7.5Amps for a total of 22.5Amps.

Now take 80%
of the remaining 6lbs of thrust (6 x.8)=and you get 4.8 lbs of
thrust.

Add 24lbs of
thrust to the 4.8lbs of thrust you get 28.8lbs of thrust.

You now have
7.5Amps remaining and 30lbs-28.8lbs = 1.2lbs thrust left.

Here you have a
choice, waste 7.5 Amps of current to get 1.2lb of thrust, or back off
the throttle and save the 7.5Amps for a longer stay on the water, you
decide.

Now you know why you
need a PWM for your motor. One you set your motor to position #5 and
the PWM will give you 0-100% power in precise settings and two you
will save about 25% of your current if you just back off the throttle
a bit. The readout of you LCD controller or the read out of the
voltage/current meter installed in your battery case will help you
monitor your settings. We have given you two very important tools to
operate your trolling motor. The PWM and the voltage/current
readings. Kind of like having a speed odometer and a gas gauge all
in one. So now you know “How the PWM can save you more current when
operated correctly”.

Thanks and happy
fishing, kayaking, or just casual boating, but do it with a WTP PWM.

Monday, June 8, 2015

Blog-PWM-1

8 June 2015

Wireless Trolling
Pro

PWM For Your Electric Trolling
Motors

Why would you own one?

Aside from the cool
aspect of just having one, there is a very real, practical side for
owning one. The number one reason is the ability to vary the speed of
you boat. The second is the ability to save current from being
wasted, when varying the speed of you motor.

Most motors come
with 5 forward and 3 reverse speed settings. This method is very
inefficient and results in wasted battery current. So much so, as to
be as high as 5 times more current wasted at the low speed (1), then
when compared to the current required at the same speed when using a
PWM. That is a 5 to 1 ratio, you can fish for 1 hour or for 5 hours,
pick one.

OK, so how does my PWM work?

It is easier to
explain when

We pick a
motor and battery combination. Lets say we purchased a 30lb thrust,
trolling motor and 12Vdc 100 AH-Battery (100 amp hour battery). The
electrical specifications are 12Vdc and the motor uses 30 amps, at
the forward full speed position # (5).

The second
thing is the PWM you purchased has a variable speed knob on/off,
idle/run and a forward/reverse switch.

Here is the real beauty of the setup.

To operate
the system after installing the PWM, Battery, and Motor you
simply set the motor switch to full speed in the forward position #5,
where you get 0-100% speed control , On/Off, Idle/Run, Fwd and Rev,
all in a one hand held controller.

Speed Control

When you vary the
speed control from 0 to 100% , you are just dividing the batteries
12Vdc into small portions of the total 12 volts. The PWM output goes
from 0Vdc to 12Vdc, thus varying your motor speed from 0 to 100%.

So, just how do they
divide up the 12Vdc and how small are the steps from 0 to 100% speed.

How does the speed control work?

The electronics in
your PWM has the ability to convert the pot position setting by using
a device called an ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) to divide the
12Vdc into 128, 256 or 1024 different values.

WTP uses the 256
value. It is simply the % ratio of pot setting to the 256 value. Lets
say you turn the pot to 1/3 position. The PWM battery output is
85/256 = .333 x 12Vdc and that = 4Vdc applied to your motor. If you
set the pot to ½ position then the output is 128/256 = .5 x 12Vdc
and that is 6Vdc applied to your motor, if you set the pot to the
full on position then the output is 256/256 = 1x12Vdc and that is
12Vdc applied to your motor.

Now you know why
you should own one. It is this ability of the PWM to control your
motor speed 0 to 100%, that gives you the increase in motor running
time from 1 hour to 5 hours.

My
next blog will deal with the Amps to thrust having a 1 to 1 ratio in
performance.

How
the PWM can save you more current when operated correctly.

Misconceptions:

The concept of 1-lb
thrust = requires 1 amp of current or 1 amp current = 1 lb of thrust.

The power ratio of
voltage to current (E x I) does not translate to a 1 to 1 ratio of
prop rotation and current to thrust ratio.

Simply put the
power consumed by the motor does not translate to the prop rotation
on a 1 to 1 scale.

Thanks and happy
fishing, kayaking, or just casual boating, but do it with a WTP PWM.

Friday, June 5, 2015

Date Friday 5 2015

WTP Cable Controller's and PWM's for Electric Trolling Motors.

This is a new Controller (Cable) for all WTP PWM products. The controller is an automatic Fwd/Rev with a center off position. Turn the pot to the right and the motor goes into Idle, then into the Forward position with speed control from 0-100%. To go into Reverse simple turn the pot to the left and the controller goes from Off to Idle into the Rev mode automatically. Models start at 30lb, for as low as $69.95

This is a new Controller (Cable) for all WTP PWM products. The
controller is a fisherman's dream. The controller has On/Off switch located in the pot. The 2 switches provide ideal control for all fishing requirements or just a casual outing. The unit has soft start in all modes. The soft start allows the angle to move at a fixed speed then go from Run to Idle, then glide for a bit then switch from Idle to Run, and the computer returns you to the exact same speed you left. You can go from Fwd to Rev or Rev to Fwd with a very smooth transition with the soft start system. Models start at 30lb for as low as $79.95

This is a new LCD Controller (Cable) for all WTP PWM products. The controller has all the operating modes for one hand operation at the push of a button. The display shows throttle setting 0-100% power, Motor current draw under load, Operating mode (Idle Fwd Rev) and Battery voltage under all operational settings, i.e. no load to full load. Now you have full control of you motor. Every operating mode has soft start motor control. This means no motor kick or bucking from large current surges when going from Run to Idle, Idle to Run, Fwd to Rev, Rev to Fwd, at any throttle speed.
Models start at 30lb's for as low as $109.95

You should be able find something on the website that you need at a great price. Wireless Trolling Pro believes in keeping the cost down as low as possible, while building value into the power driver units to produce a quality product for the customer.

Our overhead costs are low, Our engineer has a lot of experience in designing products for consumers and businesses.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions regarding any of our products.

Monday, April 7, 2014

If your in the market for a power driver for your trolling motor. For just a little over $100 you really can't go wrong.

Our two newest models are cable controlled and feature three waterproof push buttons or toggle switches, which are On/Off, Idle/Run, FWD/Rev. With a turn knob for speed control.

The LCD display controller has battery management built into it. You can now read the Current and the Battery voltage from the LCD display. This model has 125 individual steps for throttle control functions.

Both of the power driver modules are designed for 0 to 40 lb thrust single trolling motors.

Right now you can buy our power driver module directly from Wireless Trolling Pro or on ebay.

You can find the Wireless Trolling Pro cable WTP12CS403B Controller and Power Driver button model on eBay or on the Wireless Trolling Pro website.

You can find the Wireless Trolling Pro Cable WTP12CS403S Controller and Power Driver toggle switch model on eBay or Wireless Trolling Pro website.