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Eats of the Week

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Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

EMPEROR'S GARDEN

4215 Spring Mountain Road, 889-6777

When they slip you a fork if you're not Asian you get the idea that this is an authentic spot and indeed it is, tucked away in China Town Plaza and frequented by busloads of Asian tourists. Service was a bit slow toward the end -- we saw one woman march into the kitchen for more rice -- but we liked the shrimp, mushrooms and fresh spinach in the won ton soup, and also the pan-fried dumplings, barbecued pork, crispy beef and Shanghai egg rolls. (5/15/09)

Overall: B+ $$

LAWRY'S THE PRIME RIB

4043 Howard Hughes Parkway; 893-2223

Lawry's the Prime Rib has a limited menu -- mostly prime rib cut at the table by a guy pushing a domed silver cart, with a couple of seafood selections and a rib-eye steak tossed in -- but maybe it's just that stick-to-what-you-know philosophy that had made the company so consistently reliable for 70 years. We love the prime rib (both the California cut and the slightly larger Lawry cut) and also the crisp-crusted sourdough bread, Spinning Bowl Salad, mashed potatoes, creamed corn and lovely Yorkshire pudding. (11/20/08)

Overall: A $$$

PIERO'S ITALIAN CUISINE

355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305

Piero's has many of the trappings of a conventionaire/tourist-centric restaurant-- the location close to the convention center, the high prices, the multitude of tables for large parties-- but much about it doesn't feel touristy, and that would include the quality of the food and service. We were extremely pleased with the roasted artichoke, Saltimbocca alla Romana, Fettucine A Modo Mido -- fresh fettucine with broccoli, mushrooms and pancetta, to you and us -- and a creamy, not overly sweet tiramisu infused with a striking coffee flavor. (9/11/09)

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