Don't replace the chuck assembly, it can't be that desperate yet. Did you try BMitch's strap wrench suggestion? You could also use locking or groove joint pliers with a heavy cloth or rubber sheet to protect the chuck finish. Even if the finish is damaged, the chuck will still function, but you may need to always use gloves on it because the damaged surface will be too harsh for bare skin. If the drill doesn't torque enough to loosen the chuck, you may need to use two tools to get it to loosen. It will loosen with the right tools.
–
bcworkzJan 19 '13 at 20:28

You'd need to unscrew a screw that is accessible only when the bit is removed to replace the chuck.
–
sharptoothJan 22 '13 at 7:35

@sharptooth my drill machine definitly does not have a screw that is covered by the bit, maybe in other models. check my amazon link
–
Moataz ElmasryJan 22 '13 at 13:51

7 Answers
7

Put the drill in reverse, firmly grip the chuck (the part you were calling the head) and gently squeeze the trigger up the point that you cannot hold on. If you hear clicking, and it doesn't torque very much, you need to turn the torque setting up to the maximum (the highest number, or the drill setting if it has one). If it still doesn't budge and you're not able to hold the chuck against the force of the drill, you may want to use something stronger than your hand to hold the chuck. A strap wrench is well designed for this task and won't damage the chuck.

I will try and get one of these strap wrenches and try again. I tried to use my bare hands as well as a piece of cloth to hold the chuck base and tried to turn on the drill in the release direction, but I have to admit that I'm not strong enough for that :(, so I'll try the strap wrench. many thanks
–
Moataz ElmasryJan 22 '13 at 13:49

I had no idea of strap wrenches before reading this.
–
sharptoothJan 22 '13 at 14:09

1

I've had success with channellock pliers. They usually leave marks on the chuck, but they're also more common than strap wrenches.
–
alx9rJan 23 '13 at 6:51

@alx9r: They won't damage the chuck if the chuck is wrapped in cloth.
–
sharptoothJan 23 '13 at 7:32

A less dangerous way (Especially as there's still a bit in there)is with a bench vice and pliers/wrench (so no power is used)
–
Mark WAug 23 '13 at 10:28

First you have to remove the chuck assembly from the drill.You have to put the drill assembly in a vise. Tighten vise around the front of the chuck first then use a large channel lock pliers around the large part of the chuck assembly, and turn counterclock wise and the bit should come out. Put the chuck assembly back on.

I tried all the suggestions I could find on the internet that worked for others, but none worked for me as my drill bit was way more stuck than theirs I guess!

The suggestions (and the result, so you are warned what could go wrong if you try it!):

hold the chuck and run the drill in reverse - I nearly burned my hand. Tried it with a thick gardening glove on, and still nearly burned my hand.

soak the head in WD40 to loosen the bit - nothing gained from this for me

hit the drill bit into the chuck as this helps release the jaws inwards - despite multiple bashes with a hammer nothing budged and the drill bit was no more loose than when I first started

use a strap wrench - the only way to do this was to grip around the chuck and run the drill in the opposite direction. As the drill bit was so stuck and the drill torque was so high it was the drill (rather than the chuck) that started to rotate and started moving towards drilling into my arm!

In the end I used two strap wrenches, one at the point the chuck should be turned and one just below. With the drill battery disconnected I was practically standing on the chuck to put enough force into the strap wrenches. There was so much force the chuck distorted into an oval (and this was a high quality drill), but eventually it popped and the drill bit came free.

Incidentally I oiled the chuck afterwards as it was very stiff (despite the previous oiling) which was probably a contributing factor to how stuck the drill bit was.

I have a strap wrench set but not nearby, didn't want to go buy another, and needed the drill bit changed soon. After reading this thread with several good suggestions, the only things I had on hand to try were a pair of rubber gloves--not enough alone for me either--but I also got the idea of wrapping two thick rubber bands, which I did have, around the drill chuck pieces. Combining that with the rubber gloves was enough to improve the grip so I could loosen the chuck. Worth a try before heading for the store.

I had this problem after the first serious use of a drill I bought (judging by the resistance, I believe I was drilling into concrete). I tried using the drill in reverse and various other suggestions I saw on the internet but had no luck. What I ended up resorting to was to buy a "Draper 43863 2-Piece Soft-Grip Strap Wrench Set" from Amazon (I think there are other brands and other vendors, which may well be as good or better). It worked a treat. Given the purchase on the keyless chuck that I managed to get, I can't think I would have been able to release the drill bit otherwise. (Retrospectively, I don't think I should have bought such a powerful drill with a keyless chuck).

Hold the base part of the drill chuck with your hand. Hit to the head of the drill chuck with a hammer in the direction you would turn the head to remove. You would want to hit in the direction of the rotation, so you would scrape the chuck rather than hitting it directly. Narrower headed hammers and chucks with cavities on the sides that you can catch with your hammer will work better. This method WILL damage your drill chuck cosmetically, but I have yet to face a functional problem with it.

Nope, this will likely damage the plastic chuck exterior big time and if you repeat that you'll likely get all the plastic stripped and the result will be really ugly and not very usable.
–
sharptoothJan 22 '13 at 10:22

I have to agree with sharptooth, but this is too brutal
–
Moataz ElmasryJan 22 '13 at 13:48

Driving a motor while preventing it from rotating is potentially more risky. However, I agree that using my method requires finesse.
–
palpaJan 22 '13 at 16:05

+1, if it's not coming lose using two channel locks, time to start hitting it with a hammer.
–
MazuraSep 29 '14 at 23:05