Versace

In a season when many designers have been hedging their bets with practical daywear, Donatella Versace took it short, young, and just a little sweet—for her, that is. The cute part was a 3-D heart shape formed by an open zipper; it nestled in the neckline of the first dress and turned up strategically placed in other spots throughout the show. Otherwise, though, the collection was for the most part graphic and above the knee, with one or two examples of the faceted, angular cutting that's been picking up since Francisco Costa showed it at Calvin Klein.

If it wasn't particularly themed as a show, it was no particular letdown either. What came through more than anything was the palpable quality of these clothes—the days of tacky Versace are firmly behind Donatella. Still, the most memorable impression was left by the pretty, summery prints of starfish, shells, and girl faces, hand-drawn and painted by Julie Verhoeven.