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Here's a write up on my Daily Driver - the new Civic 1 Litre Turbo - I've so far done just a bit over 1500 Km's and since the engine was new didn't really push it to the max and I have not yet been able to do a really long trip or a drive uphill to BUT I will continue to update the blog based on the experiences as well as services etc. For a start I will touch the basics as well as all the cosmetic stuff and then get into the overall driving experience and later on the services etc. There is also a dedicated thread in the forum that is quite informative. But I hope this blog will also prove useful to someone.
First of all the basics....
In a nutshell the 2017 Civic is the 10th generation in the line up. The particular model I have, and is getting popular in SL goes under the model code FK6 and has a P10A2 engine which has a measly 988cc but is turbocharged.
The car is made in the UK (at Honda's Swindon Plant). I have heard that the agents now bring it down as well. (6.2M for the SR)
There are 3 grades for the 1L turbocharged civic. SE, SR and the EX.
The SE is the most basic model with the EX being the highest (the Tech pack is a further extension of the EX) There is roughly a 5,000 GBP (~ 1 Mil LKR) price difference between the SE and the EX. The SR on the other hand sits comfortably in the middle - it does not have stuff like adaptive damper system that comes on the EX. The Honda UK website lists down the differences of each grade under a section called 'Build your Honda' or something. If you're interested do have a look.
There are 7 colors available and the Rallye Red is the standard . Every other color will cost around 500 GBP more . There is also the "Orange Line Pack" - which is basically an accessory kit that adds a touch of orange into everything - I've seen a few such cars in car sales in SL. Though I initially contemplated Sonic Grey, ended up with a Polished Metal Metallic specimen.
With the 2017 Budget a new tax structure was introduced and under the engine capacity based taxation you'd be paying 17.5 m in taxes (1,754,976 LKR to be precise) for a brand new car with reasonable creature comforts and a bunch of bells and whistles which costs something between 4-5 mill based on the grade ( see above )
First Impressions
For me the new Civic hatch looks like someone started designing and spent too much time doing a good job with the front and then ran out of time to design the posterior and hastily put an end to it. This explains the rather weird looking behind. The Sedan version I have to admit looks better. There's also waay too much plastic in the rear so much so that it looks like a joint venture between Honda and Arpico.
There's a bit of aggressive styling at the front. The car is quite wide and it has a solid ground hugging look to it.
As for the supposed vents you see at the front and the back - well those are fake. They're simply pieces of plastic made to look like vents. And yes it does have fog lights. I like the factory fitted black 17" alloys. Note the SE comes with 16" Alloys as opposed to the 17" found in the SR.
Being a brand new car it came with a humongous bible-like user manual (thankfully in English) - along with the wheel lock nut as well as the tool kit and the tire repair kit (glue and the inflator which by now we are used to) If any of you intend to buy one from a regular car sale make sure they give you your wheel lock nut.

It's been little more than 4 years with my Hiace and it has done around 76,000kms so I thought its time I give you guys an update on it.
Let me start the blog with the basics,
Mine is a Toyota Hiace KDH206, this variant of Hiace is fitted with a 1KD-FTV turbo engine with an all wheel drive system. The AWD system in the KDH series is pretty much full time, it runs on all four wheels normally and if any of the wheels experience a slippage, the vehicle stops sending power to that specific wheel.
There is a noticeable difference between the AWD variant(KDH206) and RWD variant(KDH201). The KDH206 is around 100kg heavier and you could feel that through the steering when you drive one. In addition, the KDH206 feels far more planted at higher speeds and around corners than the RWD variant. However the downside is that the full time AWD system drinks bit more fuel than RWD version.
Cost of Maintenance
In short the Hiace is not cheap run, I get fuel economy of around 6km/l in kandy and around 9-10km/l outstation, the RWD KDH201 would return around another extra 2km more per litre. Hiace is originally fitted with 195/80R15 8ply tyres and they cost around 22-23.5K per tyre from brands like Continental or Pirelli, while Maxxis tyre could be found for around 16k.
The Hiace requires 0W-30 oil and a regular service which needs to be carried out every 5000km costs around 10K using Toyota oil, I was using Toyota oil filter as well, but now I have switched to VIC.
ATF oil must be changed around every 40k kms, I change air filter and cabin filter every year.
It requires super diesel and this is an absolute must, if you regularly pump auto diesel you will pay more in repairs than what you saved by pumping auto diesel. The most likely issues you would get from pumping auto diesel are DPF, which costs around 70-80k to replace and injectors, which would set you back around 500k for all four.
So far I had to change only a bush which costed around 50rs, apart from that I have not had any repairs.
Performance
The Hiace pulls pretty well for a vehicle which weighs 2 tonnes, the 1KD-FTV with a variable nozzle turbo produces 100kw at 3400RPM and 300nm of torque at 1200-3200rpm and it is connected to a 4 speed conventional automatic gearbox. Overtaking other vehicles with Hiace is pretty easy, you just have to put your foot down, the turbo will come to life and you would be gone. It is always on the right gear, there's no unnecessary downshifts or up shifts, the gearing ratios are perfectly synced with the power band of the engine although it is only a 4 speed gearbox in a world of 6 and 7 speed gearboxes.
The Hiace properly comes to life on hill climbs with the help of low end power and variable nozzle turbo.
Handling is fairly good for a van, it handles better than large SUVs. The KDH series has much less body roll compared to the previous LH series, but it isn't great as handling of a car. I notice the difference in handling when I drive the Hiace after driving our Bluebird which has front and rear independent suspension.
Comfort
It doesn't handle large potholes and bumps as good as a car, but it does manage to soften small potholes pretty well. The diesel engine noise is evident compared to a hybrid or petrol vehicle but the noise reduces when the vehicle gets to the third gear or at around 70+ km/h speed. The A/C is epic on the Hiace, it is one of the best cooling A/C I have come across, I rarely have to set the A/C temperature below 26 degree Celsius on auto mode and that is without the dual A/C.
There is plenty of space inside, 7 or 8 people could travel on long journeys with their legs stretched out and not crammed. The second row seat is the best place to be in, you get the dual A/C right in front of you, it is acoustic sweet spot and minimal sunlight enters the cabin.
Practicality
It is quite a practical vehicle if you are using it occasionally or for long journeys as it can seat 8 comfortably yet carry plenty of luggage(you could fit around 4-5 large travelling bag placed horizontally), it has got atleast double the amount of luggage space compared to a Noah/Esquire. However it is bit of waste of money if you are using it on daily basis as fuel bills are gone be crazy and parking these are not that easy within city limits. In addition, maneuvering these around narrow roads requires some skills especially roads with tight bends.
Second hand value and parts
Selling a KDH isn't difficult at all, if you maintain them right there will always be people willing it to buy it from you. There are plenty of body parts available but 1KD engine parts are bit difficult to find and even if you do find, it will be expensive
Some used parts prices are:
Pair of tail lights: 15k for older design and 30k for new design
Pair of headlight: more than 100k without the HID unit
Rear door: around 40k
Fog lights: around 20k
What I have done with my Hiace
The Modellista body kit came with the van from Japan itself and I added the Modellista grill later on
Original Toyota spoiler which came painted pearl white
I tinted the fog lamps yellow with Nightbreaker bulbs in them
I have also replaced the rear seats which are rotatable and come with a table as well
I have done some electronic mods as well,
Installed a transcend DrivePro 200
Carrozzeria tweeters with crossover
and JBL component speakers with crossover(thanks to @TheFlyingFox)
https://streamable.com/ujkce
I was planning on installing FIAMM horns, but the JDM side of my brain took over and I went with Mitsuba Alpha
https://streamable.com/nbipn
Note: click on the links to access the videos
My dad had the body kit removed for a short period of time and during that time I drove it through some muddy terrain. It did well.

The first thing that struck me when i sat down to drive this for the first time was the really low seating position - it did not take a lot of getting used to though. The height is of course adjustable and provides a much comfier driving position. The passengers seat on the other hand though cannot be height adjusted. The rear seats too don't have the fabled "magic seats" functionality where you can fold up the seats to increase space in the rear - but you can fold the seats down to create a humongous amount of boot space - I do not quite remember the exact capacity but it's quite a lot. Due to the shape of the roof , while the rear seats are quite comfortable and have a decent amount of space for your legs you might feel a bit of head room is missing. But it won't really translate into a problem - unless you are from Marhsall Eriksen's family .
The SR grade (and the SE) for that matter comes with fabric seats - and the interior is black by default (for all grades) . So no "Baij Interiyal" advertisements on the classifieds for this model then. The materials for the seats are quite "scruffy" and the interior is a dust magnet. The material used on the seats particularly are prone to attract a lot of dust and small particles of whatnot.
There are speakers on all four doors - something I noticed in other contemporary Hondas as well - the doors also have the same dust-attractive upholstery.
I told you there's only a repair kit - but the good news is there is a bit of space in the rear that can double up as storage space or a spare wheel well - so if you're paranoid about having only a repair kit, you can easily carry around a spare
The cockpit is contemporary Honda fare. The steering wheel itself is quite plush and has a nice feel to it - though the steering itself is light which I will talk about when i have an entry regarding handling. The usual controls are all there including the cruise control buttons and beneath the wheel you can find the paddle shifters (again paddle shifters + CVT is something i would talk about later) The control for the lane keep assistant is also in the steering wheel.
Mind you the Wiper control stalk is on the right and the headlight control stalk is on the left - takes a bit of getting used to if you've previously driven JDM's only. The "Auto" mode in the Wiper means that it will enable the rain sensing wipers and depending on the amount of rain you get the speed will adjust as well. Nice touch but i personally feel it's a bit too dramatic. If i remember correctly the SE grade does not have rain sensing wipers.
This being the SR grade you do not get a push start you need a key - the Push start button is there only on the EX trim.
With the honda sensing package you get some features like proximity alerts, automatic breaking and lane departure warning. These can be turned on and off and the switches are located near the ignition on the right hand side along with the headlamp leveling switch. The shifter console includes the parking brake (yes there's no separate lever for that), the brake hold button (so your foot can be taken off the brake in for example color lights) there is also a button to toggle the eco-mode as well as to turn on and off auto-braking. Between these two buttons you would find the adaptive damper button on an EX-trim car.
There cubby hole is quite small and disappointing given the fact that this is not an alto- and there are no individual cup holders etc - there is a circular holder that can easily accommodate a bottle in the storage area below the slide-able arm rest. This storage area also has a usb port that can be used with the infotainment system. However it has to be said both the usb outlets in front are not in the most accessible places. The other usb slot is practically invisible and hidden by the armrest console along with the HDMI port and Next to that is the 12V circular power outlet. Mind you there is another 12 V power outlet in the boot as well - handy when it comes to plug in your car vacuum.
There is also dual zone climate control - other than the dedicated climate control panel fan speed etc can be set via the touch screen.

Once upon a time, there was a guy named <insert your favourite name here>
His child was suffering from fever. He took the child to a gynaecologist, because the gynaecologist charged less than a physician.
The gynaecologist also tried his best to examine the child, took the money and finally said, you should take the child to a physician, because he has a newer digital thermometer than me.
Now <insert your favourite name here> is wondering whether to buy the latest thermometer from aliexpress and asking his neighbours what's causing the fever.

Wish All Auto Lanka Fans a Very Happy New Year 2019!! On behalf of Team Autolanka, I would like to thank our Top Contributors, Senior Members, Moderators and all Members for their contribution and support throughout the year.
2018 Top Ranking Contributors are as follows.. @Crosswind @Davy @matroska @iRage
2018 Top Ranking Bloggers
1) Project R by @Komisiripala [Click Here]
2) Project Refina by @PreseaLover﻿ . [Click Here]
In year 2019 we aim to work closely with our top loyal contributors and make quality motoring contents for general public. We invite all of you to come and enjoy all facilities provided by autolanka.com

So I think I should share my opinion about Corolla 121 since I have closer to 7 years of ownership experience. I have driven an ES5 clocked around 170,000kms and a 3 clocked around 100,000km.
I bought the 121 when it was clocked just 93,000km and now she's closer to 154,000km. I am nearly 80kms away from Colombo and I never had any problem regarding maintenance and sourcing parts. Other than usual running repairs, the car never came up with an issue. Still the car drives like it did on the first day I bought it. When it comes to reliability, Toyota is the best.
When driving, the handling is considerably better than Axios, Allions and Premios, but the Hondas and Mazdas feels a bit more connected to the road and sharper to handle. You can feel the difference when you sit in a Honda, as the driving position feels sporty and the seats provide better side support. Also Honda seats are bit on the firm side. But the Corolla makes you feel like you are sitting on a comfortable chair. The Corolla is much more refined and isolated from the outside world. Also the suspension handles potholes and bumps much better. On the other hand both the 3 and ES5 felt way less refined for me. The ES5 i drove had Dunlops but the road noise is pretty annoying. Ride is okish until you hit a pothole or a bump, since the car is noticeably bumpier than Corolla on bad roads. It is the same story with the 3 also. But both of them gives a sporty driving experience than the 121.
All the three models have equal amount of power produced by the engines, while both 3 and ES5 is about 100kg heavier than the 121.When accelerating Corolla is slightly better. When it comes to fuel economy, yeah you know the answer.
A Corolla 121 is not a miracle machine by any means. It's just more suited for Sri Lankans who seeks economy and reliability. While the car is much more refined and comfortable than a Honda or Mazda, it will make you feel like you are just another guy on the road. On the other hand Mazda and Honda would make you a different person.
If you need further details P.M me
Cheers

It's been a while since the last entry where I rambled on about the minor details but now for the all important part how does this actually drive. I've done over 5000 Km's now and I guess spend enough time with the car to give my honest feedback on how it handles etc.
I'm not going to dwell on the statistics and figures since that is readily available on the internet - but for formalities sake the Civic comes with the P10A2 engine - Honda's 3 cylinder turbo charged engine which has somewhere between 125-130 BHP.
So the overall driving experience ? Well it's adequate and after the break-in period it seems the car is actually quite eager than it was initially. There is a bit of turbo lag and coupled with the torque at low revs you feel a bit like driving a diesel ....no complaints though.
A question I usually get from some people is whether this model comes with the much maligned DCT - well surprise surprise it does not. Honda have mated the P10A2 with a CVT. Of course there is always the manual and that is actually supposed to be great as per reviews from the UK - but considering I use this car to drive daily to and from work in the colombo traffic I had to be a masochist to opt for a manual (which I'm not - and god bless future me when I try to sell a manual in Sri Lanka ) . Those who have driven the GP5's and Graces know that the Dual clutch set up is actually a blast to drive - which is not the case with the CVT. My previous car also had a CVT gear box and frankly I'm not a fan of them at all. But then given how DCT's fared locally I guess having a rubbery CVT over a DCT setup is not a huge deal.
All grades of the FK6 comes with paddle-shifters - now I know it's a bit funny to see paddle shifters and CVT in the same sentence but what the setup actually does is have more of a simulated shifting mechanism going when you use them. When you're in normal 'Drive' mode you can use the shifters to change gears but the car is too eager to override you and kind of spoils the fun. However if you change your gear to 'S' then the HUD will display an 'M' indicating that the car is ready to receive manual input and a blinking indicator also indicates when the time is right to shift up. Of course if you don't shift at the right moment the car will give you some time and after a while will override you. S mode, and the 7-Speed CVT with the shifters is a little fun time to time but I think it's there more as a gimmick to be perfectly honest. I will upload a video on this later on and update the entry.
There is an ECO mode which can be enabled/disabled by a switch on the gear shifter console. Turning off the Eco mode will give you a more fun driving experience as the car is much more peppier. For more fun on an open road shift to S and use the shifters.
I use the E03 expressway daily and that's where this car really feels home at. I mentioned the low end torque - around 2250 RPM there is a sweet spot and you can feel that pull. Due to it's dynamics the car feels very well planted and very stable at high speeds. You just feel the car hugging the road and hurtling forward - which is a really nice feeling. The handling is quite good -the steering is a little lifeless but adequately sharp and the ride is very controlled. I drive an SR which does not have the adaptive damper system found on the EX.
The ride is generally smooth even with some potholes - though I cannot give any feedback about the rear since I've never actually traveled in the back seat.
Road noise is something I've always associated with Honda's and once again this is no exception though the road noise insulation is comparatively better than that of smaller cars like the Fit. But it does a good job of cutting out the racket from that noisy 3 pot engine - which believe me is quite loud and rough when you actually open the hood and take a look. But inside the car it's generally quiet.
To sum it up ... Cars with downsized engines for the sake of reducing emissions and improving gas-mileage are not meant to be fast performance cars in the first place. But Honda have tried to give the driver a bit of feel-good factor with the fake air vents and the paddle shifters and the overall 'sporty' feel. I wish it didn't have the CVT gear box and the steering was a little less lighter. But the noisy little 3 pot engine pulls really well given it's size and the weight of the car. The 1L Turbo Civic is no Type R but for a bird with clipped wings it flies pretty well.
And now for the FAQ Section
----------------------------------------------------
[1] "Nice car bro how does it do on fuel ? " :
I drive in generally bad traffic I wouldn't claim it to be the worst since I don't travel to areas like Rajagiriya/Dehiwala etc. And the car returns around 7-8 KMPL. On general I get about 10 KMPL in a 50-50 City/Suburban drive. On the Expressway I get around 6L/100Km which means about 16.6 KMPL. On the average long distance drive on non expressways depending on the time of the day the car will do between 12-16 KMPL.
[2] "The car is a bit low isn't it? " :
One fear I had earlier about the car before purchase is it's low ground clearance - somehow I have found it to be ok so far. I recently traveled on one of the most horrible roads I have seen in the western province - it was a tiny impossibly narrow dirt road with immense pot holes and pieces of rock jutting out leading to an almost forgotten home for the senior citizens where we had to give dinner. It was a hellish drive in pitch darkness but somehow i got through without a single scrape. For a better understanding I will try to upload some daytime pics of the said road.
[3] "Aren't the back seats a bit cramped?"
Leg-space wise no. There's quite a lot of leg space . The thing is due to the curved shape of the roof some may feel that head-space is a bit lacking. The only person to complain so far was my 6'3" /125Kg cousin. So unless you're some behemoth you are OK. Having said that I must say the Civic is a little too driver oriented with a lot of care given to the driver and lesser focus to the passengers: for instance the seat height adjustment is not available for the front passenger. It's a little darker in the back too.

Corolla 121 can be introduced as one of the most popular cars in TYPICAL SRI LANKAN vehicle market. Even being aged closed to 20 years they still sell around 3 million.
So still most buyers are interested about this car, and I planned to share my 7 years of experience in this blog. I used a 2000 manufactured G Grade one which has a 1500cc engine.
What it really is?
Just a compact car designed for A to B transportation with good fuel economy and realiability.
Driving
So I’m going to start from how it is like to drive. When compared to the other cars in the same category the acceleration is really good for a 1.5L motor. The car is comparatively lighter than the 110 and Axio, so for me I’m yet to experience a better acceleration from a newer car with the same engine. It has good kick down acceleration due to 4 speed automatic transmission. For me the engine performance is better than the Civic ES5(1.5l), Mazda Axela 2004-2009, Lancer CS series and Nissan Tiida.
Handling is a bit sharper than the newer Axios,Allions and Premios, but not sharp as a Honda or a Mazda. Steering is really light with a very little amount of feedback from the road. Due to the rear torsion beam setup the car is not steady in corners when compared to the older 110 and Carinas(which has independent rear suspension). But it is comparatively better in corners than the Axio.Braking is ok. Neither great nor bad. When it comes to handling Hondas and Mazdas are better.
On the highways the car is steady for speeds around 100-120. After 120 there was a slight vibration(due to the resonance of the engine) but when you accelerate further around 140 the vibration goes away. There is a noticable change in stability after 140 as you can feel the car is well planted than before. You can go all the way upto 180 without any issue ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS IN PERFECT CONDITION(TIRES, ALIGNMENT,BRAKES AND SUSPENSION). I’ve tested twice and really impressed.
For day to day driving around the town the car is good due to reduced length and good ground clearance. Ground clearance is really good when compared to other cars from the same class and even with never Fit,Grace and Prius. The light steering really helps for easy manouvering.
Visibility is okay, but sometimes the thick front A pillars are a bit disturbing. Also there is a problem about visibility when the dashboards is reflected from the windscreen during direct sunlight.
Driving position is pretty higher like most other Toyotas and not sporty at all. Feels like you are sitting on a chair.
Comfort
When I bought the car it was running on its original shock absorbers. But in 2015 I changed them using Japan made KYB Excel G and it reduced the the comfort level by a considerable amount. But the car is more comfortable than Mazda Axela, Honda Fit GP1 and GP5, Civic FD3, Honda Grace and Vezel, Toyota Aqua. I can really handle potholes well, but bumps can make the car wavy due to the rear torsion beam setup.
The refinement levels are really good when compared to the above mentioned set of cars and it is another field that the 121 really excels. Under lightfooted driving the engine noise can’t be heard, and road noise levels are much lower. After long journeys I felt less tired than the Gp5 and Gp1.
Seats are really comfortable and are a bit firmer than 110,FB15 N16s, but not firm as the Allion Premio 260 2007-2012 F grade and Hondas and Mazdas. One thing that I noticed was the rear seat thigh support is better than the Premios and Allions. Seat space is okay of you are under 6ft. Front seats feel a bit cramped due to the dashboard design beacause I’m 6ft. I always felt that Front seats are less spacious for me when compared to the other cars, even the GP1 is better.
Fuel Economy
Another area that this car excels. Based on my personal experienced around the town it does only about 9-10 kmpl with full time ac on 92 octane(because I live in a really hilly area). For trips like Colombo to Kandy it car return around 14-15kmpl with full time AC. It returned well over 18kmpl when travelled through highway to matara and longer trips with less traffic with 3-4 adults on borad. Also note that driving pattern hugely affects the economy level. Slow driving will never return good fuel figures. Maintaining a speed level around 70-80 will return really good fuel figures. After the first few months I never calculated fuel figures since it is much less expensive to run.
Reliability
This is the car which made me a Toyota fan. It never broke down. Never even had to touch the spare tire. I had done 60,000km (93,000km to 153,000km). I only had to do the running repairs and replacements. Did the tuneups and changed the ATF fluid once for every 40,000km. Used only Toyota oils.Did the services on time and never let the “makabasses” touch the car. Changed the AC cooler. Changed one hub razor. Only the running repairs. But remember that most of the cars up for sale have been through much abuse and therefore don’t expect the same level of reliability from every car. Make sure to set aside about Rs.100,000 for the repairs when you are buying a car. Also note that some cars have manufacturing defects, eventhough the car model is proven reliable. I know a guy who sold his 2010 personally imported Allion after doing 60,000kms due to excessive repairs. That depends on your luck.
Options
Has a good amount of options considering it’s age. Always go for a G, G limited or a Luxel grade if you buy one. I will do another entry explaining about all the grades and options.
Build Quality
Interior is really good with soft touch materials on the dashboard and upper doors. All trim pieces are solidly fixed so I never experienced any “creeks”. Interior material quality is better than the 141 Axio and 2nd and 3rd gen Prius. Good when compared with the cars of the same category.
Notable Faults with the car
-The steering rack is issue is famous with these Toyotas. It gives no problem except for the “duk duk” noise when travelling on bad roads. I repaired it but again after 3-4 months the noise came. Best thing is to replace it with a good reconditioned part.
-As mentioned before the dashboard’s reflection on the windscreen reduces the visibility during direct sunlight(only when the sunlight falls directly on the dash)
-The center console has a small compartment, just over the ash tray and the lid of it was broken from the begining and in most 121’s I’ve seen it broken.
-Discoloration of the headlights is pretty fast due to the shape of the headlights
Resale
The car was sold over a month ago keeping me a 150,000 profit even after 7 years of usage. Remember that if the price is right you can easily sell it. I was quoting a really high price earlier and got a chance to sell it keeping 275,000 profit. But at that time I had no car to move on so gave up the idea(3 months ago). I advertised the car on a not-that-much-famous site on internet and next day morning two boys came for inspection and in the evening gave the advance. He still calls me due to satisfaction.😃
Really I loved the car throughout it’s stay with me for 7 years. Really a good car which is suited well for the Sri Lankan conditions and Typical Sri Lankan car buyer’s requirements. Make sure to look after the car well and it returns you with good reliability. Always use japanese parts and good mechanics for the repairs.
Hope to do another entry to this blog about the Grades available in 121. This review is based purely on my experience and some details might differ from car to car. Please inform me if there is something inappropriate or wrong and welcome for all comments. I triend my best to provide and unbiased review.Thank you for reading👍
Cheers!!!
-alpha17-

Option 2 all the way,
The aquas here have aged and been hacked, most need a new battery and redone to fool buyers. An aqua with a faulty hybrid system is not at all economical to run let alone repair.
A vitz unreg as a direct import or from a credible source is a far better option
I bought 2 keis to cut down fuel costs after using thirsty diesels, quite happy with the decision , garage visits have gone so low that the mechanic calls to find out if I went abroad or died.

Unless you have a 2.0L Premio...you do not have a G - Superior Premio. If you have a 1.5 then what you have is a F or if 1.8 a X grade (probably L or EX package) with a G Superior dealer-package. The dealer package was just a few cosmetic additions. Not the actual G Supreior grade. In Sri Lanka 99% of the G Superior packages are not original ones either...the local dealers got the badges and OEM chinese parts or used parts and fitted them locally.

If resale is your worry, go for a Toyota. Its like a cheap maradana whore. You can do whatever you like with it and shove it off to the next guy.
If you like to enjoy your ride, go for the kia.
You cant find a maradana whore who looks and feels like priyanka chopra. You need to decide where to compromise.

This is based on my experience of renewal of driving license. This is applicable to anyone has a driving license of;
1. Old school type (book) got damaged, faded.
2. Driving license with magnetic strip got damaged, faded.
Both these types have no expiry date printed, it means you can use them as long as driving license is readable and undamaged.
There was a circulation to mandate all these previous versions to be updated into new system, but it has not yet been implemented. AFIK
There are two steps:
1. Medical Examination:
It is compulsory to appear for a medical examination. This is done in several places in the country. In Colombo district you can go for Werahera or Nugegoda.
Procedure is set out under this http://www.ntmi.lk/images/pdf/the_process_of_issuing_medical_fitness_cirtificate.pdf
I went to National Transport Medical Institute - Nugegoda branch.
- It opens around 8.30 AM but you can go there up to 10.00 AM depending on the numbers. Per day they take around 600 applicants. No parking inside the premises unless you are a V*P.
- take your driving license and National Identity Card.
- Queue 1: Here you will be measured for body weight and height. Then they issue you a simple form (Registration form for obtaining a medical fitness certificate) with a TIN number ( in order of the issue) mentioning your body weight and height. You have to fill out the rest of the details, your name, Driving license number and purpose of the medical test, date and signature. Make sure details are correctly filled, else your details in the final certificate may be wrong.
- Queue 2 : This is for registration and payment. This takes quite bit of time. As far as I have noticed, they take nearly 3-4 hrs to serve 500 + numbers. They will take you according to your TIN number though you are smart to cross the queue. So not necessary to stand or wait in the queue all the time. If you know who is ahead of you in the queue, you can go out for a coffee and come back.
Once you are called, they will ask your driving license, NID and form given to you earlier. First they will enter your details into the system. Will take a photo of you. Also they will ask your telephone number. After registration is completed they give you back the endorsed form. Take that to the payment counter. For light vehicle it cost Rs.800/=
- Queue 3 : This for examining your blood. This was done at a separate place to the registration. Here you will not be taken strictly to the TIN. But more or less you will be there according the previous order. Produce your NID, Driving License and the form with you. They will test your blood glucose and blood group. Not necessary to take your blood group verification details.
- Queue 4 : This is for examining your body fitness, blood pressure and vision. Here you will be called according to the TIN. Usually they will take you in group of 10 at a time. First they will verify your registration details one by one.
Physical test: You will be given few hand and leg movements to verify any disability or abnormality. Similar to the school time PT period.
Vision test : You will be checked for the vision, any play in your eyes. If you are wearing glasses, make sure to take them.
Blood Pressure: They will verify your blood pressure.
- Queue 5 : This is the final queue where you will be given the certificate. You will be called by the TIN.
n.b: There are cases where you will not get the certificate without any trouble or they will deny to issue you a certificate. Specially if you have high blood sugar, high blood pressure or any problem with your legs or hands (swollen joints, cellulitis, etc) you will be further examined or will be rejected. X-ray examination is required for application for heavy vehicle driving license for first time.
1. Obtaining Driving License:
It is not mandatory to obtain the driving licence on the day itself of the medical examination. you can go any date up to 6 months of the medical examination.
You can obtain your driving license in any of the regional office including the head office at Werahera. In Werahera it is pretty much efficient and streamlined. If you go Werahera, you have to go before 3.00 PM for regular service and before 12.00 noon for one day service. But these times are little flexible as I noticed.
- Queue 1: On arrival you will be issued a token upon verifying your NID, Driving License and Medical Fitness Examination Certificate. Then you will be taken in number on around 10.
- After this, you will directed to counters.
In the first counter, they will verify your details including the previous driving license details. etc. Then they issue you a form printed with those details and will direct you to another counter.
In the second counter you have to produce your finger prints and they will take a photo of you. This is the photo which will be appearing in your driving license. After that they will print another page including your photograph, where you have to enter your postal address, telephone number, date and signature. This is basically the application form.
In the third counter all the documents will be scanned including your NID, previous driving license, application form ,etc. They will punch the previous driving license before it is returned to you.
Finally, in the payment counter you will be charged according to the type, regular or same day service. Upon payment you will get a receipt and temporary driving license (for regular service). According to them, in regular service you will be receiving the driving license within 3-4 weeks by registered post.
For same day service you have to go to driving license collection center located outside the main building.
n.b: If you are not planning to get the driving license on same day, it is advisable to go around 2.45 pm-3.15 pm, if you don't want to wait long in the queue. They don't accept debit/ credit cards, take enough cash with you. Else there is an ATM just outside the main gate.
Have a good day.

we had a couple of mazda 323's (1999/2000) in our office - and they just kept running and running ( services are done routinely) they held up really well by the time they had done well over 300,000 km.

Is maradaane kaluakka better than Tunmulle Chooti akka? 🤣 Getting serious, the Panda is like marrying a woman with 2 kids, while you may have small orgasmic moments, you will get screwed in places you cannot even think of, and getting parts is a big headache even at the agent.

That is no reason to replace the ECU. Don't waste your money. Run away from that mechanic as fast as you can.
The first thing you need to do is get a diagnostic scan done to make sure there are no error codes. The ignition signal in OBD2 systems works by sensing the Crank Position Sensor signal. So get your Crank Position Sensor checked out. It maybe as simple as a bad Crank Position Sensor.
Don't blindly replace the ECU without checking simple things first.

We had a ford laser from new which is essentially a Mazda and much older than what OP is talking about. When we sold it after 7 years it had 217000 kms. Only things we did was regular maintenance (service and suspension components) . The engine was never touched and still ran like new when it was sold. It was also well put together , no noticeable rattles even in that mileage.

Corolla may not be worth for the money which is usually claimed for in our market. But there is a reason for that. Compared to cars in similar range, corolla has proven ( even in other countries) to be very reliable and durable in terms of engine, transmission, electrical/electronics and even body. Top on this in SL, there are ample spare parts island wide, so spare parts are not over priced. Being a very popular car, you get lot of places when it comes to repair and service. Many technicians/ mechanics for you to choose which avoids overpriced repair charges. In my experience it is a well designed car in terms of its mechanical, which can be easily dismantled without much hassle in repairs. Even all the documentations ( service and repair manuals) are well organised. Also it offers you a reasonable fuel economy if you are looking after the car correctly. So even a car with over 200k would do fine as a brad new car if it has been looked after well.
Its correct that similar range other brands will give you more and better options, better comfort and better driving experience. But they are not as equally corolla when it comes to what I said above. That's why their 2nd hand values are relatively less. In fact this is same in other countries as well.
Another point in SL is, people tend to think that cars are some sort of investments where they can get their money back at the end of the day. This also has caused the corolla to get a higher price tag in second hand market and not all corolla users really wanted to go for a corolla. I know many people who has least knowledge of automobile tend to go for Toyotas since they are scared of costly repairs. Even my first car was a corolla and it didn't give me any trouble at all. If I had kept it with me, now I can easily sell it more than twice the price I paid it for in 2003.
Anyway, nothing will going to exist for ever on this earth, none of us...so don't bother too much on choosing cars.

Hi all,
Thought of sharing this with you guys, I just manage to secure one of the ugliest cars (as per Clarkson)
Share the same platform from Vitara and use the same 4WD drive gears.
Production ended in 2 years as the sale didn't go well. soon it's going to become a collector's item (my guess), I am going to use this for promotions & beach runs as it's catching lots of eye's (maybe because it's cool, wired looking or ugly)
Going to take him to the beach this weekend and going to have some fun.

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOUR NEXT PURCHASE!!!One of my friend bought a 2017 registered and used premio.The car has done 31k kms.The car was bought for reselling.When I went to have a look, I found a service tag inside the front cupholder saying “next service 46XXX kms” and the service station is from the city where he had bought the car. When he noticed that I came to know about the truth, his face turned black and,acted like nothing has happened. Also stopped talking for a few seconds.So the true mileage should have been 41xxx kms. It seems that he has tampered the meter after buying the car, because the previous seller would never leave the service tag inside the car after changing the mileage.He is a very close friend mine and he still pretends like the mileage is true,even if he knows that I don’t have the money to buy it...Even by 10k kms,the mileage has been changed. Now it has become something like a trend☹️ Be careful on your next vehicle purchase guys.