The model year is found via the 10th digit in the VIN for 1981-1993 cars (3rd digit for 1979-1980 cars):

9 = 1979

A = 1980

B = 1981

C = 1982

D = 1983

E = 1984

F = 1985

G = 1986

H = 1987

J = 1988

K = 1989

L = 1990

M = 1991

N = 1992

P = 1993

Sequential Production Number, (aka chassis number)~ required

The production/chassis number is the last 6 digits of the VIN. Because there were a maximum of 40,000 Cabriolets built in a model year, all Cabriolet chassis numbers will begin with 0. Therefore, only the last 5 digits of the VIN are required for the Cabriolet Registry. Only numbers are allowed to be entered in this section, and 5 digits are required.

Build Date~ optional

Your car’s build date (month and year) is stamped onto the federal compliance sticker on the driver’s door jamb in North American Cabriolets. To determine the exact date (day, month, year and day of the week) your car was built, please download the Build Date Guide. You may also provide the PKN from the build sheet or the slam panel (aka radiator support) and I will determine the date for you.

Cabriolet Model~ optional

You may use the Models pages to determine what model your Cabriolet is; you may also leave this field blank and I will fill it in for you. If you include a photo, I can usually determine which model it is; if the model is unknown, the default listing of “Cabriolet” will be entered. Please note: Determining the model type can sometimes be tricky, especially if the car is not 100% original; just because the car has Zandvoort wheels, for example, does not confirm that the car is a Best Seller model. An Etienne Aigner model will have an “E” as the 4th digit in the VIN (for those models initially sold in North America). The "D" in '90s North American VINs, it has been discovered, was used mostly for Carat models, but is also found in some Wolfsburg Edition models.

Paint Code and/or Color~ optional

The color your Cabriolet currently is; even better is the factory color code. The paint color code is listed on the build sheet sticker in the trunk, if your Cabriolet still has the sticker. If the car has been repainted, please include the car’s original color: If you do not know the original color, usually the interior portions are not painted (trunk, door jambs, under the carpet, under the rear seat, the engine bay); use this as your cue to what the original color was.

Roof/Top Color~ optional

What color the roof currently is. If the top has been replaced and you know the original color, please include it as well. Note: I know my Cabriolets well; don’t be surprised to see an original color listed even if you did not provide it. ;)

Interior Code and/or Color~ optional

What the seat color currently is. If the interior has been replaced and you know the original color, please include it as well. Even better than the color is the interior code. This code can be found on the build sheet sticker in the trunk, provided your car still has this sticker. If the car does not have this sticker, you can peruse the factory interiors listed on the Interior Styles page. Note: I know my Cabriolets well; don’t be surprised to see the original interior listed even if you did not provide it. ;)

Transmission Type~ optional

Select manual or automatic. This is the transmission the car left the factory with. If you or a previous owner have swapped the transmission type, please include this information in the “notes/additional info” section.

Original Location~ optional

The original location the car was sold (state/province and/or country). For security and privacy reasons, cities will not be listed even if you provide them.

Current/Last Location~ optional

The current location where the car resides (state/province and/or country), or the last known location. For security and privacy reasons, cities will not be listed even if you provide them.

Car's Current Status~ required

Living = Currently running, driving, and/or undergoing restoration.

Dying = Currently for sale by a junkyard/salvage yard, rotting away in a back lot, etc. (i.e., may have damage, but has potential to be restored).

Dead = In a junkyard, or is being parted out with no chance to be saved; or car has been crushed.

Notes/Additional Information~ optional

Provide whatever information you’d like: link to an online photo gallery, details/short story about the car, modifications made to the car, current mileage, and so on… but keep the information brief (there is now a 330 character limit).

Photo of the Car~ optional

Attach one photo of your car, if desired. Any visible license plates will be blurred/blocked by me for the car owner’s security/privacy. Photos may be cropped to fit the space.

Photo tips/recommendations:

Do not take photos in vertical (portrait) format! If using a phone/tablet, please rotate the device into a horizontal (landscape) position to take a photo.

The best car photos are those that are taken in a ¾ position and during daylight hours.

Please see good and poor photo examples below:

I submitted my car but don't see it listed?

The information you provided was conflicting, or was incomplete as of the last update. Examples: 1) You selected 1979 for the year, but the production number entered was 19206, a number far higher than what Karmann produced for 1979. 2) You entered 00834 for your 1985's production number, but entered May 10, 1985 for the build date. Either the production number was entered incorrectly, or the car's build date was entered/calculated incorrectly. 3) You entered an invalid VIN, such as 71642. Please resubmit your car. The new submission form now requires a 5-digit chassis number and only a number to help prevent errors.

What do the symbols in the Registry mean?

The > means that a change has taken place. For example, "Helios Blue > Paprika Red" indicates that the original Helios Blue paint was changed to Paprika Red.