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Topic: spark plus seem to have changed? (Read 1132 times)

Ive been using the plugs most of us are using. the BPR6ES.I bought 2 the other day after some erratic iddling , cut outs etc. Usually i jut screw the cap off these plugs to make em fit the plug lead, but these ones didnt have the screw off section. instead the whole stem came out of the spark plug.anyone know anything about this?

Sounds familiar. The first one I bought on line, did not have a removable top spindle shaped nut. After learning that there are 2 types, I carefully ground down the spindle section small enough to get my plug wire on it & used it until I found the correct one. Now its a spare. I imagine if someone thought the top was supposed to come off, & twisted hard enough with a pliers, it could come apart.

They make both types of plugs. I had some of the fixed tip ones here, but I must've used them. My GB500 would take the others. There is a stock number on the boxes, 7131, that the the removable tips on them. I'm not sure what the fixed tips have. I didn't notice any number on the plugs that could differentiate them. Just check them before you buy them.Bare

Like Craig and Bare both said: NGK and other brands make both types and you have to check which you're getting. I've found both and had to return mail order ones that were solid.Key to look at? Is the end of the threaded rod viewable from the top or the cap? If not, it's solid - the screw on caps are hollow tubes with threads, not a closed over cap.

Hey Steve, Call around your local auto parts stores. That NGK plug is very common. I ordered my first (wrong Type) on line - turns out my local auto parts store had the correct ones even cheaper, so I bought a few. Original twin electrode plugs aren't as good - trust me.

Or.... one could just change their spark plug boot to the larger top terminal type, and never have to worry about it again. So what ever comes in the box... either a fixed terminal or thread terminal adapter would work fine.

I know everyone is adamant about it.Just for the record, I stick with the OEM plug.

My engine runs smoothly, no hickups. It starts under every condition alla prima. First plug served 23000kms before showing signs of age, and is duly replaced with a younger brother. It too performs flawlessly.

I mentioned I ran a test for 1000kms with the BRP6ES plug. I was apalled by its condition. It came out overly dirty. It was a relief having faithful back in.My small poll came to this preliminary conclusion: unless you are subject to fuel contaminated with ethanol and having poor results from the plug a NGK one can bring relief to the problem.Sjeesh. There was a time when one had to move to a third world country to have questionable fuel.

I'd say that if you're not having problems with a wandering idle speed or rough running and stalling, especially during warmup, you don't need an NGK plug. If you are having trouble getting your engine to run smoothly it's one of the first things to try.

I agree. I'm not one for the mass NGK plug craze. They are a good plug though. And I use them.... because they are locally available. But I've used autolite and champion as well for my needs, and they are fine. I never had a problem with the stock Bosch plug either.

My guess is.... even though the NGK and Bosch plug heat ranges work out in the cross reference charts, the Bosch plug is actually a little colder. Because when people have these symptoms, they seem to be issues you would have with using a plug that is too cold for the way their bike is set up and tuned. It could also be , that the people who are having issues with the stock plug, have a slightly higher base TPS setting .....

I'm thinking the proper heat range for your particular bike is more at play here , could be a NGK with a heat range of 6 or 7 for example ? But more so then the brand of plug you use......