Something to consider in his case, someone WELDED a 10000 lb receiver hitch on the two frame rails! That heavy square tubing is probably twice the strength of that little aluminum piece anyway. Steve had initially suggested the spacers, but between the welded hitch and the bumper pipes, one could suggest the aluminum piece would serve no purpose. We never did figure out why that motor pulley was so close to that aluminum piece, a real puzzle there.

JR's right it should be there but spaced out at leasr 3/4" or more! I just got home, had to run to Paducah for a while this afternoon! Congrats on gett'n r done! After you get 'er fired up with air on try dumping the valves! If they don't give you enough free play to remove an replace to belt they need to be! A belt change on the side of the rd. should be as easy as twisting the tension levers and swapping belts and re-twisting tensioner levers! Good luck get'r home before spending mega time on her! Knuckle

Something to consider in his case, someone WELDED a 10000 lb receiver hitch on the two frame rails! That heavy square tubing is probably twice the strength of that little aluminum piece anyway. Steve had initially suggested the spacers, but between the welded hitch and the bumper pipes, one could suggest the aluminum piece would serve no purpose. We never did figure out why that motor pulley was so close to that aluminum piece, a real puzzle there.

I agree Don, If that hitch assembly don't keep the rear frame members stabilized, nothing will!!!Steve, glad to hear you got it back together & sorry we couldn't be of more help.Also, if you ever need any heavy duty truck parts, try Burton Automotive on Business 83 in McAllen.

JR's right it should be there but spaced out at leasr 3/4" or more! I just got home, had to run to Paducah for a while this afternoon! Congrats on gett'n r done! After you get 'er fired up with air on try dumping the valves! If they don't give you enough free play to remove an replace to belt they need to be! A belt change on the side of the rd. should be as easy as twisting the tension levers and swapping belts and re-twisting tensioner levers! Good luck get'r home before spending mega time on her!

Hey Knuckle Don may have some interesting news about why I am having so much problems doing what should of been a simple road-side belt replacement...

Something to consider in his case, someone WELDED a 10000 lb receiver hitch on the two frame rails! That heavy square tubing is probably twice the strength of that little aluminum piece anyway. Steve had initially suggested the spacers, but between the welded hitch and the bumper pipes, one could suggest the aluminum piece would serve no purpose. We never did figure out why that motor pulley was so close to that aluminum piece, a real puzzle there.

I agree Don, If that hitch assembly don't keep the rear frame members stabilized, nothing will!!!Steve, glad to hear you got it back together & sorry we couldn't be of more help.Also, if you ever need any heavy duty truck parts, try Burton Automotive on Business 83 in McAllen.

No need to apologize... It wasn't your normal everyday repair. Lots of strange goings on... no room for some reason - trailer hitch placement etc... Like I just mentioned to BK, this should of been a simple road-side repair - I had new spare belts with me for that reason... who could of guessed it would of been this involved. But at least it will be done right for the next time...

I hope you guys stay in touch and you are more than welcome to drop by anytime I'm in the valley...

Well, this morning I got her fired up and and everything seems to working fine.All slack adjusters working, but they could use an adjustment for future easy belt replacement, but it seems good for now.

I took a closer look at those engine rails and U bolts, and noticed the rear "FIXED BOLT" is angled back about 2 inches [from top to bottom]. the other 3 U bolts are in an assortment of angles, some angles back, but not too much and one is straight up-and-down [the way it should be.]The main FIXED BOLT one at the rear of the rail is really angled back as far as it will go and even strain on its hinge attached to the frame under the rail. If, and I say "IF" this bolt was to be positioned straight up and down and centered on its lower hinge, then the engine would be forward about two inches. There could be a valid reason for this, I don't know - like a re&re of a different transmission at one time, different drive shaft length or just a lazy mechanic... I have no idea why. But that's the scoop.

I just need to figure out a way to re-bolt that bumper on and I can hit the road...DON/TX - maybe you would have a solution for this, as you have seen it up close and know what I'm facing]

What you said is EXACTLY what Jim and I figured out last night from his MCI9 and a flashlight! I think it is best if we can figure a way to pull that cradle back to where it belongs, don't forget that also mis aligns the belt pulleys as well as other things. I would suspect that if the drive shaft and other things are OK with movement, that new Porta Power toy you bought should put it back where it belongs.Have a great trip tomorrow!