24 October 2010

Notice the difference in height between the new and old adsorber for the coilovers? Anyway, it does not affect much, as along as the manufacturer ensure that the damping properties are the same... I hope :p

19 October 2010

Think most of us if not everyone has very messy wiring under the dash mainly due to sub standard car alarm installation by the vendors. If u want to tidy up: Here is your reference to the vehicle wires for the EGs.

(BTW: A proper installed car alarm system is suppose to have the alarm system main unit hidden away where it will be difficult to find - UNDER the dash is definitely not a place that is difficult to find....)

Constant 12V+

White

Ignition Switch Harness

Starter

Black/White

Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition

Black/Yellow

Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory

Yellow

Ignition Switch Harness

Tach

Blue

Distributor

Brake Switch

Green/White

Brake Switch

Trunk Pin

Green/Black (-)

Above Fuse Panel Blue Connector

Parking Lights

Red/Black

Above Fuse Panel White Connector

Head Lamp

Red/White

Steering Column

Door Trigger

Green/Red (-)

Driver's Running Board One of Two Wires

Door Lock

Green/White (-)

In Driver's Door at Door Lock Module or at Anti-Theft Module under Driver's Seat

10 October 2010

The RPM reading was off. I compared the reading to my APEXI VAFC and based on the gearing calculation versus the speedometer reading.

I did a searching on the internet on how to calibrate and all the information I got, was to remove the needle, set the car at idling & plug it back, which I didn't want to do as this method might damage the meter.

Thinking how did the manufacturer did their calibration, I removed the meters from the clusters and found the answers!

If u take a look at the top of the RPM meter, u will see 2 potentiometer aka pot (variable resistor). This is where you will do the calibration or adjustments.

Since it cant be adjusted once it installed back into the clusters/casing. I used crocodile clips to connect to the back of the clusters to get the signals. (where the screws are holding the meter in place are the contact point)

Next step is to start the engine and adjust the resistors by comparing to my VAFC readings. Frankly speaking, I do not know the reason for the two pots. Anyway, with the meter facing you, turning the pots anti-clockwise will lower the rpm reading. If u max out one of the pot, and the rpm is still too high, just turn the other pot also.

Instead of using VAFC, u can try to borrow a RPM meter that is known to be accurate and use it as a reference.

Finally got new steering wheel or rather placed back of the previous steering wheel... Its a bit complicated, heh. Anyway, I need this because my seating position was too close to the steering previously, the deep dish will allow me to be in a more comfortable position. BUT partly its because of vanity ;p

08 October 2010

I happened to go down to town to get some electrical parts and picked up some LED and resistors.

The picture below shows what I came up with (proto-type) when I was bored :p. I will update this post on what it is and the how-to under SGD$2.50 budget each.

Update: These are actually for the gauge clusters. I wanted to replace the original bulbs with white LEDs for the JDM clusters. BUT the result was not ideal.

This is due to the LEDs arent omni directional enough even though the ones I picked were 100 degrees compared to normal LEDs at 60 degrees spread. On top of these, the numbers and needles looks faded with white lighting.

FAILED ;p

However, for those who are interested. Just let me know and I will post the steps in making the LED replacement.