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Here are the instructions for changing the ignition switch on your truck:Once you get it in, you will have to adjust it...Here is the instructions on doing that:

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If the instructions above are not seen clearly,

then same instructions again as above:-----

Here are the instructions for changing the ignition switch on your truck:Once you get it in, you will have to adjust it...Here is the instructions on doing that:

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Ignition Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION

Read the air bag service precautions in Chassis Electrical prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.

Disconnect the battery ground cable.

Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column.

Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.

Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.

Lift the switch vertically upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch.

When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.

Engage the actuator rod in the switch.

Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.

Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash, and then tighten the retaining nuts.

Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL.-Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position.

Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.

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Ignition Lock Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

With Key

Disconnect the battery ground.

On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.

Remove the trim shroud halves.

Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.

Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON .

Place a 1 / 8 in. (3mm) wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.

When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.

The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

Non-Functioning Cylinder or No Key AvailableFIXED COLUMNS

Disconnect the battery ground.

Remove the steering wheel.

Remove the turn signal lever.

Remove the column trim shrouds.

Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.

Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in theLOCK position.

Remove the turn signal switch.

Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.

Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.

Remove the turn signal switch up and over the end of the column, but don't disconnect the wiring.

Remove the 4 attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft, allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the casting cover will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.

Remove the drive gear, snapring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator.

Clean all components and replace any that appear damaged or worn.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

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IGN switch is spring loaded rod attaches to slot on switch. see diagram

To remove Lower Actuator Rod (#31), from the Actuator housing (#48)

Remove cylinder to release #25 then rest will come out see removal with key.

IGN Key Cylinder pushes/pulls on the upper actuator arm. Which in turn connects to the Lower Actuator which is inside the Actuator housing, along with the steering shaft.

The nuts #58 and #66 are to be removed after ignition switch is removed .---------

Part number 30 is upper actuator:---

The upper lock actuator drives the lower lock actuator. The ignition switch has a pin that fits into a hole in the bottom of the lower lock actuator.

The upper lock actuator has a pin that falls out, so it no longer moves the lower actuator/switch. Replacing the upper actuator requires removing the steering wheel and upper column assembly.

Steering Wheel

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Without Air BagEXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MODELS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8

Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the screws from behind the wheel-F-150 model without air bag

Fig. Fig. 2: Pull away the cover with the wiring still connected

Fig. Fig. 3: Disconnect the wiring at the steering wheel

Fig. Fig. 4: Matchmark the steering wheel

Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the center nut from the steering wheel

Fig. Fig. 6: Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel

Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the steering wheel from the shaft

Fig. Fig. 8: Correct steering wheel installation

The factory recommends that the front wheels be set in the straight-ahead position and you paint or make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation. Of these two safeguards, it is more important to mark the column so even if the column is moved slightly, the steering wheel can still be repositioned in its original position.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel. On vehicles equipped with the sport steering wheel option, pry the button cover off with a suitable prytool.

Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly. On trucks equipped with speed control, squeeze the J-clip ground wire terminal firmly and pull it out of the hole in the steering wheel. Don't pull the wire out without squeezing the clip.

Remove the horn switch assembly.

Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller.

WARNING

Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.

Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS

Set the front wheel in the straight-ahead position and make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel.

Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly.

Remove the horn switch assembly.

Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller.

WARNING

Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.

Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 30-42 ft. lbs. (41-57 Nm).

With Air Bag

See Figure 9

Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the air bag module and disconnect the wiring harnesses

CAUTION

Read the air bag service precautions in Chassis Electrical prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.

Turn the front wheels to the straight-ahead position.

Disconnect the battery-to-starter relay cable for at least one minute to let the air bag back-up power supply discharge.

Install the Differential Bearing Cone Remover/Replacer, No. T77F-4220B1, or equivalent, and remove the steering wheel. Route the contact assembly harnesses through the steering wheel as it is lifted off of the shaft.

To install:

Make sure the front wheels are still in the straight-ahead position prior to installation.

Route the air bag sliding contact wiring through the steering wheel at the 3 o'clock position. Position the steering wheel on the shaft an align the marks. Make sure not to pinch the contact wire.

WARNING

Make sure no air gets trapped between the steering wheel and air bag sliding contact.

Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.

Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.

Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.

Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.

Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.

Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.

Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft.

To install:

Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!

Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.

Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.

Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.

Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.

Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.

Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster.

To install:

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).

Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting RodRUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.

Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).

Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod EndsRUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

See Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud

Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the nut from the ball stud

Fig. Fig. 7: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm

Fig. Fig. 9: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal

Fig. Fig. 10: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.

Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover.

Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.

Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve.

To install:

Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.

Install the drag link and connecting rod.

Have the front end alignment checked.

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Steering Column

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION

Read the air bag service precautions inChapter 6prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.