If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.

What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.

Locate one of the two wires to the condenser, either the red or the white. Red and white are most commony used but they could be any color and usually there are only two wires to the condenser. If heat pump or communicating then you need to let us know.

Break one of the two wires to the condenser as in cut it open and wire nut the one line from one of the float switches to one side (small orange or blue or gray wire nut) and wire nut the other side from the other float switch to the other. Since the float switches are are already tied together in series, the current is now going through both so if one fails (trips), either one of them, the condenser low voltage breaks which means no more refrigerant can flow so no more condensate water can be produced. If ever your system is set to cool but is blowing not cool air but just fan air and your condenser is not operating then your float switch possibly has tripped and you need to check them. Why we install switches as well as to protect from possible water damage.

This costs more because it not a piece of foam on a hanger attached to a micro switch. It is a sensitive precise instrument. It operates by sensing a very shallow amount of water VS. the pan having to fill up in order for the float switch to trip. Will Johnstones sell to you? I don't have a price for these for you; call the supply house and find out.

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The Following User Says Thank You to hvactech126 For This Useful Post:

If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.

What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.

Locate one of the two wires to the condenser, either the red or the white. Red and white are most commony used but they could be any color and usually there are only two wires to the condenser. If heat pump or communicating then you need to let us know.

Break one of the two wires to the condenser as in cut it open and wire nut the one line from one of the float switches to one side (small orange or blue or gray wire nut) and wire nut the other side from the other float switch to the other. Since the float switches are are already tied together in series, the current is now going through both so if one fails (trips), either one of them, the condenser low voltage breaks which means no more refrigerant can flow so no more condensate water can be produced. If ever your system is set to cool but is blowing not cool air but just fan air and your condenser is not operating then your float switch possibly has tripped and you need to check them. Why we install switches as well as to protect from possible water damage.

Oh, I just got where you said two systems so I'm guessing one drain pan float switch for each unit. In that case you do not need to tie them together, just break one condenser wire from each system and tie one float switch into one side each of the broken condenser wire.

Just snip one wire and tie through, one of the wires from the float switch to one side of cut wire and the other end of the float switch wire to the other side of cut wire to make the circuit again and you're done.

The Following User Says Thank You to Doc Holliday For This Useful Post:

If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.

What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.

Locate one of the two wires to the condenser, either the red or the white. Red and white are most commony used but they could be any color and usually there are only two wires to the condenser. If heat pump or communicating then you need to let us know.

Break one of the two wires to the condenser as in cut it open and wire nut the one line from one of the float switches to one side (small orange or blue or gray wire nut) and wire nut the other side from the other float switch to the other. Since the float switches are are already tied together in series, the current is now going through both so if one fails (trips), either one of them, the condenser low voltage breaks which means no more refrigerant can flow so no more condensate water can be produced. If ever your system is set to cool but is blowing not cool air but just fan air and your condenser is not operating then your float switch possibly has tripped and you need to check them. Why we install switches as well as to protect from possible water damage.

Oh, I just got where you said two systems so I'm guessing one drain pan float switch for each unit. In that case you do not need to tie them together, just break one condenser wire from each system and tie one float switch into one side each of the broken condenser wire.

Just snip one wire and tie through, one of the wires from the float switch to one side of cut wire and the other end of the float switch wire to the other side of cut wire to make the circuit again and you're done.