Part A.1. You may now cut your wood into the proper dimensions, labelling the TOP and the INSIDE. After cutting, I sand mine lightly for a good drawing surface.

2. Scissor cut the outside of the template but do not contour the inside line.

3. Lay the template on the TOP of your block, matching the inside line with the inside edge of your block.With a square, mark your centre register line on both front and back of the block.

4.Draw around the template.

5. You may now saw the contoured edges only. The reason I leave a solid edge is for cutting the side view on a stable base. It’s easier to carve the inside contours later with our Dremels.

6. Now that you have shaped one side, you may scissor cut the entire template and lay it reversed on the BOTTOM. You will have to see through your paper to match up your register lines.Draw around the entire shape.

7. Now scissor cut the excess shoe body from the template and retrace just the sole. Don’t forget to add a few boo-boo wood dashes.

Part B

8. I’d now like you to cut a strip of paper about 1/2” wide and about 8-10” long. THis is so much more useful than a ruler., and no having to use a calculator to split 1/16” etc.

You are all doing a left shoe. Don asked me if I was left handed – on the contrary – But most people process information from left to right. If you draw a circle counter clockwise, you too will find it easier to do a left shoe.

9. Lay your paper strip on the toe area of your original shoe, that is the flattest and before the rise.Make a pencil line on the strip at the tip of the toe.

10. Fold that section of paper in half (voila 50%!) and pencil in the fold line.Use the paper to mark some distance points on your wood block. You can eyeball it or use any measuring device you choose, I find the paper method to be easy and accurate.I usually mark it on top then use my square to draw down the side. Working with curves can get weird.

11.Repeat the process measure the height of the same area.(Remember, it’s the highest point we’re interested in.)

12. Now measure (with your paper) from your first point to the highest part of the foot hole-the tongue end.Fold the paper in half and mark the point from which you will draw a slanted line.

13. At this point, you will have to add about 1/8” thickness for your laces and more for your knot. Not all laces start at the same points of the show but the rise is the same for most basic shoe styles..I used my little paper to accurately place my knot.

14. Just for one final measurement, use your paper to make sure that the remainder of the wood is 1/2 of what you haven’t measured on your real shoe. If it isn’t, adjust now!

15. You may now saw cut your block of wood with the flat(inside) down. And if you’re very careful, you can nip off the toe and heel contours from the inside – it will save a lot of dust later.

If you are carving a boot, you will have to make one more vertical line to the top of your laces from the top of the instep that we have created from the shoe.

This will be one of the most challenging parts for me, as (sigh) I don’t have access to a band saw. But I am already thinking and figuring a way to get to this point. I didn’t even think of that when starting. I am sure I will come up with something though. :)

Wow, this is great stuff Jordan. This should be retitled the shoe carving challenge for dummies (from the book series – those are great books for folks like me). The directions are really clear and easy to follow.

Scrollgirl…If I was closer I would be more then happy to lend a bandsaw to you (I have two of them in my shop right now)....but a scroll saw or a jig saw should work also (since we are doing 50%?) Or if the blank is too thick…cut as deep around the lines as you can and finish the cut with a coping or keyhole saw. I have a friend that cuts alot of his smaller stuff out with a reciprocating saw (he does turnings…but the method of cutting curves etc. is the same).

Scrollgirl…can your scroll saw work for this? I’m not familiar with how they work. Is there someone where you live – a machine shop perhaps, that can let you borrow theirs for a short time?THanks Reggie – we posted at exactly the same time.

Thank you so much, ReggieK! You guys are great. I think I have a lead on a band saw and I am going to mosey over there and see if I can do it. You can all laugh, but I am not used to band saws – I like the little blades that are as thin as your hair! But I will give it the college try.

The block is too thick for the scroll saw, unfortunately. I never even thought of that. But hopefully the band saw I want to use is up to the task. I know it isn’t used often. But where there is a will, there’s a way.

That’s why I left a flat size for you to use as your base, Sheila, because if you try to cut a curved edge on a band saw, it can sometimes flip on you unless you strap it down. Just take it slow, the cuts are basic and not too lengthy.

I think what you meant to say is that we should be doing the left shoe. I had step one all taken care of last night and was reading through step 2 when I discovered that I do draw circles counter-clockwise. So I made two templates last night! One for the right foot and a second for the left foot.

Well, there you go – if you get courageous – you can make a pair!Glad the blogs are understandable for all.I will probably get the third one up tonight or tomorrow but don’t rush, it’s just that I can’t save more than one blog at a time without publishing it.