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To bring this vision to reality, he’s hired chef Max MacKissock. North Denver

“Off to a good start,” Lisa says, when she spies the red-gold dog sitting by the patio fence of the Squeaky Bean. Now open at 3301 Tejon, it was formerly Café Mondo, formerly Lucia’s, formerly Highland Grounds. The whole ‘hood has been awaiting this moment for months and months, and we’re ready to embrace it. On this afternoon, three days after opening, folks already look settled on the patio, and there’s that retriever.

“But there’s no water bowl,” I complain. Hardly are the words out of my mouth when the owner, Johnny Ballen, drives up and begins unloading boxes from his SUV – tea and other supplies – and brand new water bowls for the dogs. Johnny explains that the Squeaky Bean is a work in progress. Right now they’re offering pastries in the morning and a limited lunch menu. They ‘re closing early in the afternoon. Over the next month or so, he intends to open earlier and stay open late, adding a regular brunch menu, and dinner.

To bring this vision to reality, he’s hired chef Max MacKissock. North Denver resident MacKissock has been chef at some excellent Denver eateries. Originally, his role with the Squeaky Bean was as a consultant, but he became so enthused by Ballen’s vision – Italy meets San Francisco – that he decided to come onboard.

MacKissock plans an evolving menu. When I whined about losing my already-favorite artichoke sandwich, he was unsympathetic. “You’ll find a new favorite,” he said with confidence. I imagine he’s right.

The vision is a grand one encompassing early-morning coffee, light lunch, and an evening gathering place with an eclectic food and drink menu. Ballen himself will tend bar, offering creations such as the Squeaky Bean Spritzer, a delicious (I know, he made me one) bright orange concoction with a buttery Christmas-green olive. For the morning crowd, he’s contracted with Pablo’s for a special blend. I don’t drink coffee, but even I could smell the difference. People are already raving. They plan a grill and rotisserie on the patio, for everything from steaks to suckling pig. “Simply sophisticated coffee, cocktails, wine and fare” is the way he put it.

They’ve even found a vacant lot nearby where they can grow some of their own produce, for the freshest possible dishes. Ballen’s silent partner is an avid gardener and will be involved in managing that.

Ballen has a long history in the restaurant business, including being a partner at Solera. He’s also done construction and has worked closely with an interior designer. He’s used all his skills in creating the Squeaky Bean.

The décor is comfortable, with soothing colors and soft, sound-absorbing surfaces. He’s reinstated the early-twentieth century ambiance, but with a modern twist. The original tile floor remains, and he’s exhumed some of the old pharmacy signs. The counter feels as homey as your own kitchen – baskets of lemons, limes and artichokes share space with an old hand juicer.

He’s paid attention to every detail – coat hooks under the bar, frosted glass on the lower parts of the windows so that the people inside aren’t sharing their table with the people outside, a high shelf in the kitchen holding jars brings the eye down from the high ceilings. Even which way the restroom doors swing has come under his scrutiny.

Lest all this begin to sound too upscale, keep in mind that Ballen’s philosophy is “if you can’t have fun going to a restaurant, why go out at all?” He’s filled the Squeaky Bean with puns and bits of humor – the high chairs are labeled “Jelly Bean”, “Bumble Bean” and “Bling Bean”. The staff wear tee shirts that say “Cool Beans” or “we are Human Beans” The windows have slogans like “It was meant to Bean” and “Bean there, done that”.

Clearly he had a lot of fun putting the place together, right down to the name. As soon as the sign went up, I began asking myself what squeaking and coffee beans had to do with each other. Turns out the answer is “nothing”. One evening over a dinner of fresh-picked string beans, his girlfriend mentioned that she loved the way fresh beans squeak against your teeth – and a restaurant was born, speaking not to the coffee, but to his desire to serve fresh, flavorful fare.

Ballen begged me not to describe the Squeaky Bean as a coffee shop. He wants it to be so much more. I get that. But, coffee shop maven that I am, what matters to me is whether you can get a good cuppa, whether you can settle in and feel comfortable, whether you’re going meet your neighbors there (I met two during my first hour), whether you can establish relationships with the wait staff, and, yes, whether there is water for the dogs. The Squeaky Bean gets high marks in all these areas. It is, as Lisa said, off to a good start.***