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Can somebody who has been there recently confirm that the throwout bearing is being installed the right way forward and aft? The photo shows the clutch rod fully seated, but another shows a hollow assembly with the bearing at one end.

If perchance the assembly goes the other way round that would take up what appears to be about 15mm of space.

Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
"The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russellhttp://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

No Clutch Freeplay on K75

The suspense of waiting for a solution is killing me. I have read and reread your post. I cannot confirm whether the projection of the throwout bearing beyond the rear of the transmission is correct or the problem, but try adjusting the levers and cable by this procedure.

1. Set the lower clutch cable exposed spec (75mm) on lever #7 in the parts diagram with the knurled adjuster at the hand lever.

Make sure the lower end of the clutch cable outer sheathing metal end is properly seated in the correct position. The bolt on #7 lever with the 10mm head (#10), at the rear of the throw out bearing, should be loosened so as to not to be making contact with the throw out bearing. Clutch is fully engaged.

2. Screw bolt #10 in by hand until it just touches the throw out bearing and hold with a 10mm box end wrench while securing the 13mm lock nut.

Back the 13mm locknut back far enough back before screwing #10 in by hand so that your are sure that it is the bolt that is making contact with the throwout bearing. So far the clutch is fully engaged and there is no slack between the handlebar hand lever and the forward end of the clutch rod at the pressure plate.

3. Set the cable freeplay at the handlebar lever to spec. (4mm?)

Screw the knurled adjuster IN so that there is Freeplay in the cable before it disengages the clutch assembly. It is measured at the first place that opens when you pull the lever. You can almost do this by feel and not sight. This slack ensures that the whole clutch assembly is fully engaged and not preloaded or partially disengaged when the lever is out.
Don't forget to set the knurled locknut on the cable adjuster.

Hope this helped. Whatever the solution turns out to be, please let us know.
Charlie

Charlie - If I do that, the push rod is depressed enough to disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission entirely. Even with the #10 screw removed and the hand lever screw all the way in, the #7 lever is touching the #3 throw-out bearing.

At this point I need to assume that my friction disc and clutch pressure plates are worn enough that replacing them is the only solution.

Since at this point the wear only inhibits free play and not clutch engagement, I can probably get by another 10k miles as-is, but then I'll need a new clutch pack.

This is a WAG but what about the little piece of felt that is inside the clutch lever housing/cable that keeps crud out of the cable? Is it possible it is jammed up inside the housing and is preventing the cable from seating properly at the clutch lever? They are about 10 cm long. Again, just a WAG.

No Clutch Freeplay on K75

Very good suggestion from Mike in a previous response. I'm inclined to think the problem is with the cable also. It only has two ends and there is something wrong on one end or the other or both. The lower end of the cable has to be in the REAR recess of the transmission bracket and not half way back from the hole that you thread the cable through. I say this from experience.
Some one out there will say the magic word(s) that will solve your predicament. After all, there are thousands of K75/100's out there that are working properly right now. You'll get it. Keep at it. Charlie