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Rather then 20th century class-A/B amps, I would consider the more efficient Class-D

Will you be keeping the stock sub? Once the speakers are chosen, the amp options fall in line. A nice efficient Class-D 4 chnl can power 2 pair of in-boats and a moderate 10" sub, but no room to add a 3rd pair of in-boats. For 3 pair and a sub, a 5 or 6 chnl is a great option. Quite a few proven efficient Class-D 5 and 6 chnl amps out there.

For tower speakers, I would suggest a dedicated amp. Being high on a tower as wells what we expect out of them, they will need way more wattage then the in-boats. Sharing 1 half of a 4 chnl with the in-boats rarely offer this needed power. For tower speakers, a 2 chnl is a great way to go as it will allow for a 2nd pair later. But, a 4 chnl run in 2 chnl mode can be a budget friendly way to power a single pair of tower speakers.

Nothing wrong with the way your talking about doing it, but let me give you a few things to think about down the road.

The 800.4 that your speaking about is discontinued and I'm fairly certain we sold off the last of that model. It's been replaced by the XM15.4 model. If you do go with the SXT9 pair, you could run it in stereo mode and deliver 150x4 CEA rated power. You'd run ch 1-2 on the tower and then you'd have ch 3-4 to power either cabins or a sub. If you summed 3+4 to the sub, you'd have 300 watts.

The other option is to run the Javelin in the cabin / sub. This would give you 120x4 CEA for the cabin and 800W for the sub. As a side note: you could opt to keep the factory cabin amp in play and dedicate the javelin to the TOWER and SUB by bridging ch 1+2 and 3+4.

The point of this is to let you know - You have options. The Javelin will be most flexible but cost more. Hit me up in a PM if you need in-depth info. Happy to help.

Ya I had the ZLD in my last boat and really liked it... I actually did away with the HU all together. Bluetooth my phone to the ZLD using a bluetooth puck plugged into a set of pre outs on the back of the ZLD.. very convenient

someone (david ) told me years ago when designing my first system that if you are not going to run 3 amps, to keep the towers independent of the sub from an amp standpoint. the theory was that you want to balance out the "power hungry" sides of the system to different amps. it made sense to me. I have always ran 3 amps so it was kind of a moot point other than it pushed me into that setup for the first boat and I followed to the second.