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I purchased this car from a dealer in Houston after running CarFax, AutoCheck, and a National VIN search. The 760 was shipped to me this past Monday and received Wednesday evening. I have driven the car less than 50 miles since it was pulled off of the delivery truck. Mileage is now at 86,000.

The car ran great the first night I owned it and I drove it about 6 miles just to make a test. Next morning while making a right turn in a parking lot the car stalled. I was able to immediately restart the engine. I drove 6.5 miles to my home immediately after this event and while idling the car in my driveway it died again. I restarted and it idled cleaning for a long time. I made a late afternoon run to the US Post Office without a problem. I followed that by driving 2 miles to fill the fuel tank without any stalling issue. I have driven 19 miles since this fill up.

Last evening, day three of ownership, while driving to dinner the car tried to stall again, idle surged, dropped back down to normal, I proceeded. Few minutes later car tried to stall again, idle surged, and this time the check engine light came on and has stayed on.

I got on this forum to look for similar occurrences and found this thread:

Maybe it has to do with the fuel delivery system? There are two high pressure fuel pumps on the V12 - which others have had problems with. How much fuel was in the tank the first time?

Also - carbon buildup is notorious - For the last 3-4 years, I've been using Chevron Techron Fuel System cleaner (available at the BMW dealership) , every 5000 - 7500 miles and that keeps my V12 running smooth.

First thing would be to get the cause of the check engine light. You can get the OBD2 codes or, as most members here have, is a cheap laptop with INPA installed and a diagnostic cable.

When I put my intake manifold back on after decarboning the intake valves a couple months back, I had a hard time starting the car back up since I had opened the butterfly valves on the throttle bodies. I ended up resetting the throttle bodies with the pedal procedure and it started back up, a little lumpy at first, but it smoothed out; might be a quick fix to your issue.

If I were you, I'd also get a look at the intake valves to see how bad they have carboned up. The direct injection on the N73 is different than the port fuel injection on the M73 which may be contributing to your idle issues by leaving PCV deposits on the back of the intake valves. Does the car stall only at idle or during 2000 RPM+ driving?

Does not seem to matter if I am sitting at idle in my drive way, or moving at a steady clip down the highway. This evening it stalled at a stop sign. I restarted and went straight to my mechanic. It tried to stall at 35 MPH on the way there but I was able to keep it going.

One thing I noticed with the hood raised that if I rev the engine I hear a lot of air suction going on. My last 750iL with the 12 cylinder never made a sound regardless of idle or going down the highway.

Thanks to everyone that is offering an opinion as to what the cause may be. We are a united group I have to say.

What is the best course of action here? I had a 750iL for 7 years and never had a problem with it. I expected a newer V12 to be at least as reliable as my old one.

Was this your first (or last) error?

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsbolin@me.com

One thing I noticed with the hood raised that if I rev the engine I hear a lot of air suction going on. My last 750iL with the 12 cylinder never made a sound regardless of idle or going down the highway.

750Li's were 8-cylinders, not 12. They also were not turbo's so.....

You really Do need to search around on here and you will find a number of similar issues (car dying in turns) on both the 750's & 760's. It's not common but the repairs can be VERY costly.

Maybe the PCV valves on the intake manifold have given up. Does the car ever stall out when cold, before it has gone into closed-loop mode? If it was a vacuum leak leading to a lean condition, my guess is the car stalls when warmed up or when the car goes into closed loop mode. In closed loop, a vacuum leak will lean out the engine whereas in open-loop, the extra air may be balanced out with the extra fuel.

Err... Am I missing the obvious here....??
You bought the car from the dealer and it isn't working within only 50 miles of driving...!

Give them a ring, it's their problem surely ?? I wouldn't be throwing a single penny at it.
Tell them to sort it....it's not as if you've bought an old banger for a few pounds/dollars !!
The car is supposed to be the finest car ever produced. ?!@!
Sorry ?!

i had the same problem a while back. car dies sometimes but not always. sometimes i could keep it alive by pressing the pedal to the meta. but ur issue seems very similar to what i as going through. ca runs perfect al high rpms (3000 and above) but its at a risk of dying if the rpms.drop below 2000. i went thru hell before it finally threw a code. turned out to be a faulty MAF. replaced that and everything was fine. keep in mind though, i have the 740i v8 version i.e. the n62 so ir problem might be different. but the symptoms u described are VERY close to mine.

Contacted the dealer as recommended. They are in Houston, TX so working this out remotely.

As I mentioned before, the car check engine light a came on, P028, which I am told relates to the thermostat. Anyone have this code that can lend some insight?

I had both of the fuel filters replaced and the fuel pump replaced. I did this as a precaution and to help isolate to whether the problem is the HPFP. $1K spent on this service alone and the diagnostics:
-Diagnosis of check engine light
-BMW fuel filter
-BMW inline fuel filter
-BMW fuel pump.

Drive home from the service, cars tries to stall. I am presuming that this isolates to the HPFP's.

As with my previous posts, we are all here for advice and recommendations to our wonderful BMW driving experience. Please focus on assistance for the issue presented and not the costs even though it is excessive.

I suppose you could drive the car around with a laptop an INPA running to monitor. Does the fuel pump make any weird noises? When the pump started to go in my Dodge it started sounding different pitch wise. If you are stalling I'd also expect occasional hard starts if it is the pump.

Drove the car 2.5 miles to FiveGuys for lunch. Before going I let the car idle for ~15 minutes. Drive to FiveGuys was fine. Drove 1/4 mile to AutoZone to a Parking Lamp Amber light bulb. Got in car to drive home. Stalled coming out of AutoZone. Restarted, made it 30 yards. Car stalled and died. Restarted, drove home through back neighborhoods to keep speed down and to pay closer attention to sounds coming from the engine bay. Idle surge and drop the 2.5 miles home.

Noticed yesterday when I started the car the smell of rotten eggs. Reminded me of the smell of a bad catalytic converter.

Can anyone provide the part number for the Crank Shaft Speed Sensor and the Integrated Power Supply Module for a 2004 E65 760i? Both are mentioned in other threads to be checked and correcting similar stall and stop issues.

Have you scanned the car yourself with INPA? I'm sure the dealers are looking out for your best interest , but if it were me, I'd like to see the errors myself.

Also, if the 400-450 psi value is correct, the HPFPs are partially working as the level is higher than supplied by the fuel pump in the fuel tank. Unfortunately, if the pressure in the fuel line doesn't exceed the pressure in the combustion chamber, the fuel won't get through the injector. Like you said, I think the problem lies with the output level of the HPFPs.

How did you come by the 400-450 psi readout on the fuel rail? Is there a hidden menu that
displays that? If so, maybe some of us with 760s can report back with our values.

Also, did the carbon cleaning service providers take any pictures or tell you of the condition of your intake valves prior to cleaning?