mercedes benz sl clutches

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Im looking for a SL and need to know what to look for and what to run away from. Here are some details on the cars ive seen so far This will be my first mercedes so Im kinda like a biddy in tall weeds About the Cars 1981 380 sl red tan interior both tops goods 125000 miles. I have seen it yet. Its in driving condition ac doesnt work interior is in fair condition. I dont know if timing was changed to

hours trouble-shooting and trying to diagnose problems (like I did) If you buy the D-jet take the 3 hours to read the D-jet thread in the encyclopedia or just spend hundreds of dollars and hundreds of hours burning 100 dollar bills while poking yourself in the eye with a sharp object to achieve the same result that all being said the article from Road and Track Road and Track Article 1994 mercedes

Saw some spy pics of SL500 with new style ala McLarenSLRSLK and they mentioned model year 05 or 06. Excuse me if this has been answered before but when is this killer new body style going to be introduced 05 or 06 Im set for an SLK55 AMG but if this is coming out by Summer 05 Id wait and get the SL instead. Tom

I think only 1 person out of 100 considered it acceptable to put an SLR nose on the new SLK. Especially the older pics with the circular headlights the look of the SLK was truly butchered. However as time went on and real pics of the new SLK began to escape the clutches of Merc more people warmed up to the look of the car. Currently most people who have seen the car in person think that overall mercedes

So my 380SL has 179K miles and I hope to replace the powertrain with rebuilt units this fall (hopefully before something bad happens). I got in a spare engine and transmission to rebuild some time ago from a 1982 380SL (whose timing chain had been replaced with a double chain AFTER a catastrophe). It was a pretty good deal. The engine ran well and compression was good but the mileage was unknown but

My intent was to make something that would fit on a (cheap HF) stand and possibly be modifiable to other transmissions. This was the first structural thing Ive welded and its probably over-engineered. I dont know how good my welding is (it occasionally LOOKS ugly) and I would rather have it too strong than too weak. I dont have a suitable workbench for this kind of work either. On the cost of the parts..this

I started rebuilding a 722.315 for my wifes 300D 3 years ago. Her car had 220k miles on it at the time. It was shifting well but always leaked from the TC or front pump. I assembled a transmission out of two cores someone had given me plus a few other parts ( and the seal kit and clutches I got off ebay cheaply). I was working to get it done before she went to Europe and I would then have 2 weeks to

Looking at a 2004 SL600 but am a bit disuaded by the previous SL600s resale performance. For example the 2002 SL600s MSRP was at 128K but can be picked up for 40-50K today. Was also looking at a 2001 360 Spider (MSRP in 2001 165K used ones are going for 190K today). Any thought about how the new design will hold its value Any input on this topic would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Quote ian-kent - 132005 205 AM The 360 spider may have held its value quite well and not devalued as much as a SL. But a Cambelt service is 5-6000 the clutch is 3000 the standard service is around 2500. So work it out over 3 years - 2x clutch60002xservice50001xcambelt service4000-50003xsets of tyres3000new exhaust3000 Total22000 - around 19000 more than a SL and thats only allowing for 6000 miles a

Quote Mr_Ferrari - 1242005 952 PM Quote ian-kent - 132005 205 AM The 360 spider may have held its value quite well and not devalued as much as a SL. But a Cambelt service is 5-6000 the clutch is 3000 the standard service is around 2500. So work it out over 3 years - 2x clutch60002xservice50001xcambelt service4000-50003xsets of tyres3000new exhaust3000 Total22000 - around 19000 more than a SL and thats

Hi all I think our 87 560 is getting to hot Ive read the threads that say variation in the temp is normal but sitting in traffic at a drawbridge the car started getting REALLY hot. It was only about 75 degrees today.. Ive attached a pic of the temp gague and it actually went even higher than that but never into the red. I dont remember this happening before and we had the car in for a major service

The temp your running at is not alarming and all SLs Ive driven run the oil pressure below pegged when hot and below 1000 RPM. The fact that your Aux fan is coming on in 75 ambient leads me to believe your primary fan is not doing its job. I understand the viscous clutches can be serviced but I never did it myself. Do a search on how to check and service the clutch.

Any sl63 owners care to comment on the transmission Wondering what it is like in the real world.

Ok that is good to hear. I am very close to going for an SL63. I had an SLS and found the transmission to be a source of considerable frustration did not engage in a predictable drivable manner at low sppeds. On the highway very fun but I am around town more than on the open roads. Thinking an SL with serious power is the better game plan. I have driven sticks my whole life and always liked rowing

Then you will be disappointed in the manual mode shifting of the paddles. They are so slow compared to PorscheMCClaren and other cars I have driven that I rarely use them at all. they are slower than True manual Shifting. I am not exaggerating. Apparently this is a problem that can be SOMEWHAT alleviated by getting an aftermarket ECU software upgrade. I am very disappointed in this particular problem.

there are many stories of gearboxes packing up after full or partial ATF change. would it be the valve body that clogsblocked up due to the particles that are stirred up or would it be the gears that get damaged the reason i ask is that i have been watching videos of valve body repair ( e.g. springs sleeves gasket) granted it is a time consuming job but straight forward.. in fact electrical rewiring

of the planet gears or k2 bearing is grinding away- needle bearings in the pan-by now the whine sound is in some of the gears and the transmission is hours away from not working at all... You have the old filter Dissect it... A word to the wise... ALWAYS dissect your old Tranny filter on the 722.6 transmission...It will say a lot about the future(and the past).. Take a look at this... httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsw210...ink-about.html

Lynn Thank you for putting up the links.They are well done but do lack some info... Sadly mercedes has made some real duds with the 722.6 and 722.9. Both transmissions share some of the front-end components that plague both of these transmissions. Depending on model of vehicle one has the failures will come up rapidly no mater how often the fluid is changed or the type of fluid is used. Failures K2

Nope. Fluid coupling is significantly different. I always imagine it as a slippery clutch at low rpm where torque converter actually converts rpms lost by slipping into inceeased torque. Most 4speed boxes just got one extra gear at the beginning or if youlike it three speed box is sort of missing first gear. More difference was in diff. For comparison 280auto and four speed manual have identical ratios. Five speed has overdriven fifth but other ratios are different. Wikipedia stuff on FC and TC clutches is down to earth and understandable by human beings. Sent from my NASA space shuttle portable phone using NASA benzworld chargeable application you cannot afford

I just heard that the first round of the new SLs will leave Germany soon. Who wants to buy one

Lets see new body shellv-shaped nose sectionheadlights fendersintegrated gills larger side mirrorsdual powerdome hood that is longersingle bar grillenew version of the benz 7G-Tronic trans with a wet clutch anf 4 internal clutchesairscarf a few new Gizmos in COMAND.A new price. It looks like another winner ...FOR SALE SL600 2006 14823 miles... mpelchencomcast.net

Quote Originally Posted by mpelchen Lets see new body shellv-shaped nose sectionheadlights fendersintegrated gills larger side mirrorsdual powerdome hood that is longersingle bar grillenew version of the benz 7G-Tronic trans with a wet clutch anf 4 internal clutchesairscarf a few new Gizmos in COMAND.A new price. It looks like another winner ...FOR SALE SL600 2006 14823 miles... mpelchencomcast.net Youre joking right

I just had my 560sl to the indy to do some routine work and asked him to check and replace the steering coupler. I have about 1 of play at the wheel. I have recently replaced the tie rods idler arm bushings drag link and steering shock. I adjusted the box a while back until it was just too tight and did not return to center easily then backed off the adjustment just until it would return to center.

replaced. The car has been aligned to spec. But I keep having to make corrections to keep it going straight. I have adjusted the box several times (counter clockwise) and it does not seem to make any difference. Is it possible to back the adjuster out so far that it misses the sweet spot and results in looseness again Any ideas as to the culprit Thanks in advance. Norm PS This is my 11th Diesel benz

I need to buy a puller tool to pull the pulleyclutch from the front of my AC compressor. Im pulling my radiator and hope that the extra few inches of the radiator being out will be enough... and hopefully not have to pull the AC radiator. I dont have a puller and have never even used one before. In fact I have not even gone out to the garage to measure the pulley on the AC compressor. I assume its

My Daughter Works as a manager for Advanced auto Ill have Her to look at a diagram on Her work computer catalog blow-ups She might be able to give us a more defined composite of the parts in relationship to their location and how they are affixed to the shaft (in what order) and then we might be able to evaluate the complexity of removal. The clutches are likely somewhere around 100 but hopefully not much more though sometimes the clutches are more than the compressors.

Quote Originally Posted by Gohot My Daughter Works as a manager for Advanced auto Ill have Her to look at a diagram on Her work computer catalog blow-ups She might be able to give us a more defined composite of the parts in relationship to their location and how they are affixed to the shaft (in what order) and then we might be able to evaluate the complexity of removal. The clutches are likely somewhere

I dont know about the other models but the 560SL is supposed to have a limited slip differential. Would some of you do me a favor if you are able to Jack up the back of the car with both wheels off the ground. With the car in neutral and the parking brake off have someone hold one wheel and turn the other wheel. Let me know if the wheel rotates with little effort or if there is resistance. I dont know

The test ajtcsx points do determines if the differential is operating as an open differential or one which provides a counter force to drive the alternate wheel or not. As was pointed out with the car raised so both rear wheels are off the ground if you turn one wheel by hand the direction the opposite wheel turns will tell you what you need to know. If the opposite wheel turns in the SAME direction

the 560SL is an LSD. When new it will be hard to rotate the rear wheels with the car in park. But as the clutches wear they will only function under load. To test do a break stand and release the breaks. Make sure both wheels are spinning in the stretch mark left.

Quote Originally Posted by roncallo the 560SL is an LSD. When new it will be hard to rotate the rear wheels with the car in park. But as the clutches wear they will only function under load. To test do a break stand and release the breaks. Make sure both wheels are spinning in the stretch mark left. What are you talking about

Does anyone know if the LSD from a 500SEC will fit directly into a 450SL 78 diff case and ring gear without modification One is available but I think with my lack of knowledge on parts particulars we dont yet know if the LSD will be a straight swap from case to case and ring gear to ring gear. Anyone able to help us out it would be greatly appreciated.

Quote Originally Posted by docsaab Does anyone know if the LSD from a 500SEC will fit directly into a 450SL 78 diff case and ring gear without modification One is available but I think with my lack of knowledge on parts particulars we dont yet know if the LSD will be a straight swap from case to case and ring gear to ring gear. Anyone able to help us out it would be greatly appreciated. Just by a Quaife

Quote Originally Posted by krigsmakten Just by a Quaife unit instead - they have one that works for our cars. The Quaife unit is a different design - no clutches - no wear. Just be prepared to pay BIG dollars to buy one. Quote Originally Posted by krigsmakten The factory versions are no good - they might have worked when new but anything used will have stopped working long ago. The clutches wear out.

Thought I would wade in on this topic because it is something one of the few things I know something about. The terminology Limited Slip in the context of your garden variety differential has very little to do with the slippage of the axles wheeltire combo on the pavement. The term refers to the internal workings of the differential itself and modulated control of its designed in capability to allow

If anyone has knowledge in this area and can help Id appreciate it. Throttle body was screaching because clutches inside were going out. Found a company called BBA Remanufacturing and got a reman throttle body. No more screaching but when you accelerate the engine stalls as if it had a rev limiter. They suggested the Airflow Meter. Put a new one on and it still does the same thing. Any clues

Hello everyone. This is my first MB which was purchased a couple weeks ago from the local MB dealer as a solution to my Wife wanting a convertible. It has 50000 miles on it and being a 2005 was affordable. Ill get to my question. Last weekend we went for a highway drive about 30 miles over a bit of mountain terrain nothing dramatic. It was about 77 deg F out. My wife drove it in in C mode. We parked

The engine starts and runs at high idle for 2.5 minutes and stalls. I can wait 15-20 minutes and start again. I will go for 12-15 minutes before stalling again. On first start up the 2.5 minutes is consistent. Because the car had set for years and supposedly had a fresh overhaul I changed the filter pump plugs and wires just to be sure all that was fresh along with draining the tank and putting in fresh fuel. Thanks for any ideas

I havent timed it but my warm up routine goes like this. From a cold start the air pump comes on until coolant temp gets into the 40s I think 45C is the spec when the pump shuts off and the thermo-switch opens the vac lines. This may be about 2.5 minutes. At 65C the ECU takes over engine management I can hear it hum and the rpm begins searching a little. At 80-85C the fan clutches out and the shifts

Much to my dismay when the pan was dropped for a fluidfilter change this...er... item was laying in the bottom of the pan. One end is factory finish the other is a break point when it snapped off. Looks a tad like a thrust bearing to me. Anbody have any idea what this might be Oddly enough the transmission shifts fairly cleanly.

That is a piece of the retaining ring on one of the two clutch packs. The rings are 3.5-4 in diameter and spring against the inside of the drum to keep the steels and clutches together. The rest may pop off or break- or not. Take it to some transmission shops and get some (unbiased) opinions.

Hello Everyone My name is Ellen and I am the Office manager at a German Auto service in South Carolina. We have a 1979 280SLC and I am unable to locate labor times for this vehicle on Alldata. Can someone point me in the right direction. All of my old Mitchell manuals were lost in Hurricane Irene. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Dont rely on US 280SECE being like for like. Your Euro should have higher compression so uses different plugs has different cams (originally) no smog pump etc etc. Your best option is to refer to the EPC to be 100% sure. Even innocuous things like fan-clutches water-pumps etc were different between some Euro and US engines.

My tranny is slipping and spinning so it is time for a renewalrebuild. The transmission in the car is 722.001 a version used just for a short period (72 and 72) and especially the brakepads used is NLA so it is hard to get my professional local workshop to rebuild the old one. They claim that if I get any 3 speed newer tan mine it would fit. Some US based companies offers rebuilds and I am going to

As far as I know the iron block 450 transmissions will work so a newer one will fit. All of them are 3 speeds though and therefore somewhat lacking in the performance department. You could do a 4 speed conversion and I think that that would be easier in Europe as the 350 sold with a 4 speed there while here in the good old US we only got the 450 with the 3 speed auto. Now with that being said there

So after finally fixing the smoking issues with the car I have another issue that has flared up now. I apparently cant have the car pass smog because I was told its running rich fuel. What Ive noticed is that the car starts up right away and doesnt stall or anything like that but when I leave it in idle the car begins to slowly warm up and I begin to see the idle fluctuate. Once I drive it the temperature

Quote Originally Posted by Weather Man If you live in a warm place as I do you certainly need a good cooling system. (Please fill out your profile.) Overheating while idling This points in a different direction however like your fan clutch maybe. You also have a secondary electric fan that ought to come on. Note that if you see a few drops of coolant under the front after having sat for a day or two

The fan clutches out after he engine warms up. It will turn with the engine until the indicated temperature gets to about 80C then it loosens to where its max speed is (something like) 1800 rpm. From what you write it sounds like yours is okay. When it fails the fan stays with the engine-speed and it tends to roar as you go through the gears. Do you have air conditioning If so you surely have an electric

i know this is little bit of topic here but i will in a few weeks have three V12 bi-turbo engines with 5 speed auto from 2004 in my garage and the engines are fully complete with everything nothing is missing. get back with more info.....think i would put one in my 107 after all......

John thats good info about the shift delay but that can be done relatively easily on the SM4. The problem I can see is that IF the factory use 2x 6 cyl ECUs (much like m120 used 2xm104 units) then the setup is complicated. Also the CANbus is going to be a problem for a whole host of other issues like instrumentation abs yaw control etc - which are all tied into the harness. probably going to need a

ive hired a back yard mechanic to rebuild my 86 560and hes havin trouble finding some partshes looking for a b2 servoteflon bushingand a grooved bearing[output shaft bearinghe finally found 1 shp in lakeland fl wants 383 for these parts and he wants me to see if i can find them any cheaper thanks sandyi have the part s

its really not THAT bad. Just a bunch of gears seals pumps clutches bearings. How the bloody thing really works I still dont know.... I have been nagging my wife for 12 years to learn how to drive a stick but she refuses. I guess to her the fact that the auto transmission is just another black box like the engine brakes differential etc doesnt bother her. But it bothers me even though I rebuilt a couple of them

...you put your 560SL into Drive Lets assume all flex discs diff mounts enginetrans mounts CV joints etc are all good. Would you describe it as a smooth engagement not much different from a modern car or do you hearfeel anything beyond smooth quiet engagement Wish I knew of another similar car in the area to compare. Just trying to determine if I have a problem or not. Car runs and shifts perfectly.

My 180K mile car 380 is MUCH less tight in this area than my 108K mile (and very pampered through its life) 560. I blame this on many factors which I intend to address this summer and fall 1. Bad vacuum from the engineold and probably out of adjustment modulator which affects shift smoothness. 2. Failing transmission (clutches very thin at 180K mi even on a 380 front pump seals iffy piston seals 28

I posted a similar problem last week. I recently acquired a 56000 mile 380SL. Its been in the family since 1990. It was my uncles then my Dad bought it now he gave it to me. Its a really cool car but there are some things that need attention. I figured I would start a list here. First the car starts great when cold. When its been driven and reaches operating temp it can sit for 10 to 20 minutes and

Thanks for the reply. The starting issue is definitely fuel. If you pour some raw gas into the manifold itll start right up and stay running. I heard through various internet posts that it can be a number of things all of which had been replaced minus the accumulator. I suspect the transmission is in need of being professionally looked at. The car only has 57000 miles on it. The filter and trans fluid

Hi You guys gave me such good help last time and I hope you will do that again this time. I was driving my 380SL today and suddenly the gear started to jump. Just little power was brought onto the wheels. I guess the automatic transmission started to jump. I went into park and turned the engine off. then I turn the engine on and went back into drive. I did not have any issue after that. But what happened Do I have to worry about the transmission or is it an electronic failure Many thanks

If it slips it is torque convertor related. When I do not drive my car for few months it may take a few seconds for it to build pressure... and clutches in. I am not worried as it is ok when normally used. Replace ATF fluidfilter in box as well as in torque convertor (TC). ATF in TC may be tricky to replace. Must follow manual to the last bit.

I need some advice on the automatic transmission. During normal driving it suddenly refused to change up from second gear even at 5000 rpm. Then drove for 30 mins at up to 3500 rpm still refused to change up. After a brief stop and check of ATF (normal level) everything worked as normal. This is a 500Sl which starts in 2nd. Did not think there was much electronics associated with the transmission but

Have been reading up a bit on automatic transmissions. See link in last post. The gears in an automatic consists of 2 planet gears in series. A planet gear consists of a sun in center a ring of planets held in place by a planet ring and an outer ring. The ratio of the gear depends on where the power is connected to and taken out in addition locking one of the three elements changes the ratio. clutches

The Sternzeit site had an interesting article in German for diagnostics the following info could be useful First gear Brakeband 2 activated Second gear Brakebands 1 and 2 activated Third gear Brakeband 2 and Clutch 1 activated Fourth gear clutches 1 and 2 activated In my case shifting up from 2nd to third failed this could be because Clutch 1did not engage or the governor (speed sensor) did not provide

Forgive me Daimler for I have sinned..... So Im looking at various pricing options for future reference for the Car Whose Brand Shall Not Be Named and I see the specs for a 740i engine. And I see a picture of a 740i engine. And I see a picture of a 740i 6 speed manual transmission. And I realize they would both so fit in a 107 chassis with such minor modification because the 740i engine isnt even close

My understanding were those unnamed bavarian cars are related those 7 series with 6 speeds are rarer than hens teeth. You do have options though. The mid 80s series 5 and 6 used the getrag that splits (do not have the number off of the top of my head buti believe it is a 365 it is the same one that was used by AMG for the 107s conversion) so you would only need that and have a collar made to fit your

Quote Originally Posted by smolina1000 My understanding were those unnamed bavarian cars are related those 7 series with 6 speeds are rarer than hens teeth. You do have options though. The mid 80s series 5 and 6 used the getrag that splits (do not have the number off of the top of my head buti believe it is a 365 it is the same one that was used by AMG for the 107s conversion) so you would only need

Anyone who is parting out have a fan clutch they would be willing to part with for a reasonable sum Im getting some overheating problems and this is about the last thing left. If its too much trouble for anyone to part with Ill just see what is possible with an Electric replacement. If anyone has suggestions or thoughts on that option please feel free to add your two cents Im open to all info. Thanks Scott Remember Its not just a car Its an adventure.

Quote Originally Posted by RadioTek Anyone who is parting out have a fan clutch they would be willing to part with for a reasonable sum Im getting some overheating problems and this is about the last thing left. If its too much trouble for anyone to part with Ill just see what is possible with an Electric replacement. If anyone has suggestions or thoughts on that option please feel free to add your

Well so many other people have shared their various troubleshootingrepair experiences on here for the good of the group I thought to add a little bit myself. The antenna on my 1979 450 SLC 5.0 makes whirring noises when I turn the radio on and off but no antenna comes up. So I took it out of the trunk and moved it onto my work bench aka desk. The Hirschmann antenna model type is Auta 6000U - 485. What

Hey there Nobby My unit is not like that. It does not have clutches or teeth on the wheel but has a metal ribbed wheel that presses against the nylon cord (smooth variety I think) and a metal idler marked France to hold the cord against the ribbed wheel on take up. The ribbed wheel is driven by a separate toothed nylon gear underneath that interfaces a metal worm drive shaft which is directly driven

My 2008 VW Golf which is exactly 2 years old with 98000 KMs has had a 4 year 80000KM warranty. The AC clucth shit the bed. No after market clutches...dealer only. Dealer price 570.00 I found a guy that repairs them for 300.00. The a friend suggested asking VW for a goodwill gesture given the age and mileage being just a little north of the warranty. So I went to VW and they confirmed that it was

I have an 06 SL500 with about 2500 miles on it due to come out of storage in the next few weeks (if it ever warms up around here). I would like to do a simple oil change but the ramps I have dont appear likely to work. I bought an oil extractor from the club store and was wondering if anyone has used one on their SL. I am particularly concerned with getting the cap off the dipstick tube without damaging

I would like to thank all for the very helpful comments.. Quote Originally Posted by okbarnett I just jack the car and drain from the drain plugs. I let the car down while it is draining to get the oil to the bottom of the pan. I wouldnt use ramps. It gets the engine at too much angle to drain the bottom of the pan. The have an Auto Hobby Shop where I work so I can rent a rack for like 4 hour and they

The mods on my SL 55 has the real wheel torque up to about 540 which equates to about 640 at the flywheel. I am still looking at a few more mods to add a bit more power but the MB dealer is telling me I will have too much power for the tranny. The mod people are telling me the tranny in an 03 SL55 is the same as used with the V12 Bi turbo SL600s and can handle lots more power. Does anyone know if this is true Thanks

Quote Originally Posted by jmf003 I cant recall the source for the attached chart but it states that the SL55 and SL600 have different transmissions with the SL600s having a higher torque rating. Hope that helps.... I dont think that is the case. I reckon they are the same units but with uprated clutches.

Quote Originally Posted by gumsie I dont think that is the case. I reckon they are the same units but with uprated clutches. I think so too. Substantially similar but enough differences for them to have different part numbers and different torque ratings.

The last two times my 86 560SL has not been started in a week or 10 days it emits a noise from the engine compartment for 1 or 2 seconds. For lack of a better description it sounds like a fart or maybe an open exhaust. Any ideas

The air pump only operates for a few seconds on startup then de-clutches. There are also valves at the inlet and outlet. For whatever reason MB recommends changing them whenever you detach the pump. Since your aural emissions coincide with that a good place to start. So will there be pickled eggs in Twilingate

Hi all My trusty mechanic diagnosed a fault in my LSD today (79 450SLC). Told me was going to be very expensive to get fixed. He demostrated the 2 faults to me on the hoist. 1. when you turn one wheel the other wheel only just moves (in the opposite direction. 2. where the coupling to the tailshaft is there is a clunk movement in the diff when you turn it by hand. These fault appear to match the sound

I had the LSD rebuilt in my 500SLC. The clutches are available from the Classic Center. Have the unit rebuilt by an experienced diff. shop. I doubt they will have too much trouble with it. It cost me around 1500 USD I think - but I had the diff out of the car already so your cost will include that labor as well.

Has anyone ever used one of the cheap fan clutches sold on Ebay My 560 has been running hotter than usual so I checked the fan clutch. It has almost no resistance even right after I shut the car off with the temp gauge at 100. I have seen prices on these from as low as 72 including shipping (Ebay seller) to as high as 460. From dealer. Does anyone have any experience with these cheap ones Should I shy away from the cheap one or go for it