I am slowly gathering the needed supplies. I did finally confirm after 45 minutes and nearly breaking my wrist that you can indeed remove the shallow gamebit screw with a bic pen that's been set on fire. The rest of them ain't budging. Grinding a slot into a flathead screwdriver is a joke and barely works, too.

So, Amazon has a $4.99 set of the bits and a tri-wing screwdriver. It's an add on item so preorder some video game you fully intend to cancel as soon as your bits ship. Same junk is $1.50 from Aliexpress but ain't nobody got time to wait a month.

In anticipation of throwing the gamebit screws into the landfill, I prepped my replacement screws. In honor of yotsuya, I reveal my screw painting method...

They have a $5 minimum, but frequently run a 15% off coupon on their Facebook page, and shipping is just a couple of bucks. My total was $8.26 shipped and I got 5 transistors, 10 of each resistor, a bunch of wire and heat shrink tubing, and the RCA panel jacks.

That red bar soap... man... when your coworker makes soap and gives it to you for Christmas in 2013, make sure you actually use it before you tell him that was awful nice of him and that you really like it. Because you're gonna end up with a mountain of it a week later.

That red bar soap... man... when your coworker makes soap and gives it to you for Christmas in 2013, make sure you actually use it before you tell him that was awful nice of him and that you really like it. Because you're gonna end up with a mountain of it a week later.

I probably should do the LED mod for my Top Loader as well. There was one time I left my NES on for over 24 hours because I forgot to turn it off. Why Nintendo didn't bother adding a power LED to this unit is baffling.

What's mildly interesting about that Top Loader is there is no hardware mounted to the top half of that shell. It's just a plastic cover. I contemplated mounting the LED to the bottom half and simply positioning it below the drilled hole and having it shine upwards.

This thing is going to be a pain in the ass to open up and take apart after all the jumper wires are added.

Yeah, put a couple of hours on my 151 in 1 cart. Jailbars didn't go away but everything is much sharper and more vibrant. I might actually prefer the fuzzy sound via RF but it sounds great this way, too.

>(4) The composite video source will be captured from Pin21 on the PPU chip. For best video quality the pin must be cut. You can skip the cutting and solder directly to the leg but video will have "JailBars" aka faint vertical lines in the video<

ed

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