I was on your site looking for the AMA interview that someone mentioned (didn't find it yet) and I stumbled onto your blog and started reading. First - what a wealth of knowledge!! I'd give my right hand to go to one of your workshops - you're coming to North Carolina!! - but then I wouldn't be able to participate because I'm right-handed .

ANYWAY - you advocate working from dark to light and go on to explain that it's because a decision hasn't been made about how dark to go (paraphrasing). I have always worked light to dark and I was kind of offended at first because it made it sound like "I" was wimpy. But then I realized that I am wimpy - I'm afraid of the dark.

I draw primarily people - so I'm not sure how to go about establishing the darks first on what is a basically a "soft" subject? I'm afraid, I think, of giving the person a "George Hamilton" tan by working too dark.

Would you be able describe how you would start a portrait working from dark to light? I'd love to give this way of working a try.

Ya' gotta' get his book Lonny. He has some great info on how he does this in the book. Mike does a great explanation and reasons why he draws this way.

but just because you work from light to dark doesn't make you wimpy! I have always worked from light to dark and I dare anyone to call me a wimp! It is whatever style that works for you best. Even Mike is the first to admit that different artists use different methods!

(if you go look at my 'bunyip' post on the animal forum that is all done light to dark - starting with a 6H and a 2H working up to 4B. I did do the nose first to establish my darkest dark however)

Sorry for jumping in on your post Lonny but It's a follow up question for Mike and or Imweil. Is there a way to get a digital copy of Mike's book? I bought JD's off the IBook store but didnt see Mikes.

You're a wimp, Linda. hahaha. Sorry ... couldn't resist. I draw light to dark myself ... in fact I usually start with 6H, go to 4H and sometimes even 2H although I have been known to use 4B but rarely if ever as a base value. I use clutch pencils after reading Mike's book some years ago .. I also use mellotex paper exclusively which I order from Mike as well.

Mike does not draw from light to dark - at least not the same way I do. As Linda says, he explains it in his book in good detail. I've tried it but I just can't manage it his way. Even though the book is a bit on the expensive side, there is no other book on drawing that would rather have for explaining animals and fur.

There is not a digital version of his book to the best of my knowledge. After having read the original a number of times, I don't think I would want a digital format. Another thing to consider is that Mike would quickly lose control of his property if it were released as a computer file. Look at what has happened to music files ...

I perched Drawing from Line to Life book from Mikes website. While I am waiting for it to arrive, I was gathering up the tools I will need, The Drawing Tools Mike Uses . I am having a problem finding, Staedtler Mars Carbon 2mm Leads 12-Pack F

I was looking for something else and I found the, F grade lead. I am waiting to hear from the seller, and it is 2mm lead it’sfor Drawing and Drafting just like the rest of Staedtler’s line. We just have to hunt for them just like the 2mm 6H and 3H leads.

Thank you, Ken if this deal doesn’t pan out, it’s good to know that the H grade will work.

I suspect it's a typo or that it's an older page. Staedtler doesn't list F as in the line. I also see they no longer list Mars Lumograph refills in their product line. Perhaps what you are looking at is an older box. I'm not sure what carbon-lead is .. but this is all they show as being available in 12 packs now. Nonetheless, H is about the exact same thing as F and I find it works very well for me.

If you look around you might find some online or floating around in excess stock somewhere, I found a place locally here that still has the old EB leads (about a Staedler 7B), that is the darkest mechanical lead I have found yet.

In my pursuit to improve as an artist, I have to learn new things in my discovery of mike’s book I am learning about Clutch pencils, For one thing they are constant at all times. Neither length or weight change the balance remains true.

That explains it then, Manuel. I bought all my refills in 2005 and haven't needed to buy any since - so that's why the packaging calls them Mars Lumograph. I don't know where Mike gets the F grade since Staedtler doesn't list it as available.