Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

Comments

I have a 2002 JGC Limited with ~48,000 that I am taking in to the dealership for service next week. Current problems are:

1) Malfunction Indicator Light is on, and the code displayed is P0601- PCM Internal Controller Failure.2) Since 5,000, the car has displayed a message that the passenger side door is open even when it isn't. I've had this fixed 3 times (they've tightened connectors and replaced sensors) but it will just work for a week or so and then break again. Weird thing is, sometimes I'll be driving and suddenly the door will register as closed.3) Heated seats don't work on either side

I've read that there is a federal 8 year/80,000 mile warranty on the PCM, but that sometimes dealerships are reluctant to replace this part. Does that code mean the PCM needs to be replaced? Also, are these problems related or independent?

PCM should be covered under emissions warranty. Heated seats have been known to fail (they quit on our 2001)due to stretched wires. There are kits to fix them (via dealer) Door open signal could be related to the faulty PCM.

HELP! I CAN'T START MY 97 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE BECAUSE THE LOCK IS STUCK ON THE DOOR REMOTE SO THE ALARM IS ON. HOW DO YOU REPROGRAM IT? I AM IN DENVER,CO AND ALL DEALERS ARE CLOSED DUE TO THE BLIZZARD. I HAVE DUG ABOUT 4 FEET OF SNOW OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY BUT NOW I CAN'T START MY TRUCK.

Owners manual has no info on this. I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/41,000 miles and the HO V8. Always had dino oil. But is it cool to use Mobil 1 in the HO V8 without fouling any sensors? Anyone out there who may be using this product for awhile?Cost for the oil is not an issue. Would like to extend the life of this engine as far as posible. Thanks in advance

My 1994 5.2 just did this today, I turned it on it idled smooth for about 10-15 secs and cut off. No sputtering no "stalling" just cut straight off, as if I had turned the ignition off. And it will not start back, it turns over just won't start. I haven't had a good chance to look at it yet and am just looking to find the best place to start. I believe it to be an electrical problem, be it a fuse or relay or short. Dunno yet. Any ideas?

Does your door switch work? Check the wires running in and through your drivers door for cracks, breaks, and abnormal bends. Has this problem been there since you acquired the Jeep? or has it happened recently?

There are 2 scenarios:#1 check your plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button. You could very possibly have a few wires crossed and or not connected. My old fadota did this when I pulled the plugs off at one time and replaced them wrong. After driving for a while like this your plugs may foul, which would explain why it wont even start now. By the way did it idle smooth when it would run?#2 Also, check your fuel pump and/or filter. If your pump is bad or your filter clogged it will starve your engine of precious fuel and cause it to "miss". If when you would push the throttle it would cut back, this would be the problem. It would severely affect performance. Just check everything I said. I too have a 94 with the 5.2 and the fuel pump did mine that way. The way to check your fuel pump is to have some on turn your ignition to the on position with you standing in back of your jeep, even laying under your fuel tank, listening for a "whirr" or "buzz". If you don't hear anything your fuel pump is gone. If you do then check your fuel filter its on the fuel line in front of the tank. Take it off and replace it. I hope this solves your issue. BTW a fuel pump will set you back about $300.

I just bought the Jeep last week and I just noticed the problem. I thought it was locked and a friend opened the driver side after I had supposedly locked the Jeep with my remote. I have since noticed that when I am driving down the road and when the doors lock automatically the driver door does not lock.

i have a 96 grand with a 5.2.. when drove for sometime it gets a oil pressure gage problem.. if i drive for bout 25 or 30 mins at 0psi..it ticks sounds like lifters.. does anyone know a fix???? last year put oilpump and sending unit on it ... any help would be great thanks billy

Keep a damn close eye on your oil level. My 5.2 ticks when oil is low, 5.2s are notorious for drinking oil... and/or something may have gotten in your oil and clogged your pump screen, get some engine flush and put it in before your next oil change.

My check engine light came on about three weeks ago and I had it checked by a shop which they cleared the code and told me to drive and see if it comes up again. The check engine light just came on again giving the same code as before P0118 ECT sensor so I had it replaced and the code was cleared out. About a half a hour later the check engine light came on again and I had my heat running. I came home and turn the ignition key three times only to get the same code P0118. Don't know what I should have to get checked out now. I can't find anything related within the forum similiar to the trouble I am having with my 2001 Jeep Laredo 4.0 engine. Is it safe to drive? And for how long? Do I have to have it cleared again because it may have been done incorrectly? help.

I no longer have my '97 but before I sold it I found information on another site that lead to cold soldering issues with the head unit on these not so great stereos. Try using jeepsunlimited.com/forums for a search on your model Infinity Stereo problems. Most people just replace the system. There are voltage issues that new units cause with these Jeeps too. Log on to Crutchfield.com for the stereo units that may work with your model Jeep. Then search for best prices for that unit if you chose to replace the stereo.If you have the time and the problem is not in the head unityou need to remove the headliner from the rear to access an FM connection. I do not have the shop CD with me anymore. But I think the part that sometimes fails at this location is a modulator or something. Anyway it has something to do with receiving the FM signal along with the fender mounted antenna. The CD and perhaps a printed copy of the manual showed the location of the modulator on the passenger rear side inside the headliner.

Have a 2002 GC Ltd w/V8 and have used Mobil 1 since first oil change after buying new. No problem w/sensors, got 10% better mpg after switch along with improved power over the standard six cyc, which I have had three over the years. Change oil every 3K w/new filter and w 86K, no leaks and no internal loss. Also, K&N air filter helps over stock paper. According to Mobil One site, synthetic reduces engine operating temp about 20 degrees which also helps with extending life of electronic components. Good luck

I own a 1994 JGC with 145K on it. Within the last year it has started eating ignition coils when I take it on the highway for an extended period of time for one hour or more. Believing resistance to be the problem, I have replaced all the plugs, plug wires, etc. and it continues to burn the coils up. Any ideas of what is causing this and remedies would be appreciated.

I have a 2002 JGC Laredo, 100K on it, and I have a couple of problems. Hope somebody knows what they might be. Any help will be appreciated.Ok, #1: After running for awhile, maybe 15-30 mins, engine starts to occasionally idle rough when stopped for a red light. It doesn't do it all the time, but still quite often. I've heard some suggestions, like: plugs, fuel injection system clogged up, fuel pump, exhaust... anybody had a similar problem?#2. When I turn left a certain way (turning right and then turning left) there's a knocking sound coming from my left wheel. Any suggestions what this might be?

I have a similar problem. My remote would unlock all the doors except driver's side so when i started the car, it would die on me because the alarm would shut it off. I had my 99 GC for about 4 years and it started happening after I had the engine replaced this summer (at a non-dealer shop). Then i took it to Jeep dealer and they said it was the BCM board so they replaced it (charged me $750) and now (4 months later), it is happening again! They are now saying it is a short with the wires and they already charged me $400 and still havent found the problem. Is there a way to bypass/dis-engage the alarm so the car can run? Do you have any idea what can cause this and how they can fix? I am really fed up with the dealer and I really feel like they are taking advantage of me because I am a female. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Sorry the message is too long.

Just don't use your lock switch on the driver door, just manually lock the slider. It will not engage the alarm, so the alarm will not be able to disengage the engine. Yeah, I would be pushing the dealership to take some action or threaten calling the better business bureau, b/c you sent it to them to fix a particular problem and they gave you a particular solution and it still DID NOT fix the problem. Ask for either the problem to be fixed for FREE or for you $1150 back, if nothing else then just labor with fixing the problem for free(and you pay for parts only). If they don't want to listen ask for their manager if they don't listen ask for the General Manager, and finally go to the OWNER, and even then, if he/she doesn't listen go to DC and the Better Business Bureau. Someone will listen along the lines, I know I don't hav $1150 to just throw around even if I did I would still want my money to be put to GOOD use. Be confident and well spoken(and maybe have a little attitude--not too much tho). And to address the rest of your concerns... This can be caused by a few things #1 a bad battery(go to your local parts store and have them check it-shouldn't cost anything at most $5). #2 A short in the wiring in the LEFT door(this is an isolated problem just to the drivers door so they should have checked that wiring harness FIRST!). #3 The switch. #4 The last resort is the BCM(this would have a more widespread problem--more doors not locking). They MAY be trying to take advantage of you, or it could just be they DON'T know what the problem is, and they are charging you for it. BTW most dealerships have a charge just for looking at your car, so I would suggest-Don't go there again, and IF you do make them not charge you for looking at your car until they've figured out the problem(tell them if they can't do that you will go somewhere that can). This should be a fairly easy fix tho, the part of the wiring that bends the most(thus causing a short--break in the wire) should be available seperately. Sorry for rambling. I hope this helps you.

Though you don't have many miles on the engine you do have old wiring. Check for a short, break, bend, crack or something wrong in the wires running to the coil. A shorted wire could contact a ground somewhere and send neg. and postive feed through to your coil the wrong way.

I've had a similar problem with my 94 5.2-though we have different engines symptoms and cures will be similar.To #1--Check for vacuum leaks near or on--the throttle body, or the intake manifold. There will be a slight hissing sound while idling.-- Check the PCV vavle and CCV hose, they could be clogged and their only like $5. Check your fuel and air filters. Just remember to check the cheapest and easiest things first, they're usually the first things to cause problems, plus they're cheap and easy :-D. To#2 sounds like your ball joints may be going bad. Or maybe they're just loose or starving for chassis lube. Have someone check torque and lube your suspension/steering components(these are always neglected therefor always problematic.

I HAD A FLOWMASTER DELTA 50 SERIES SUV PUT ON AND IT SOUNDS GREAT EVEN WITH THE RESONATOR STILL ON. I ORIGINALLY HAD A DYNOMAX 2 CHAMBER MUFFLER PUT ON BUT THAT WAS INSANELY LOUD SO I REPLACED IT WITH THE FLOWMASTER. I WANTED THE DYNOMAX MUFFLER BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL STAINLESS STEEL BUT STILL THEY ARE WAY TO LOUD. THE PROBLEM WITH REPLACING THE MUFFLER IS WHERE IT SITS UNDER THE VEHICLE, IF ITS TOO LOUD IT RESONATES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE VEHICLE. THE FLOWMASTER MUFFLER COSTS ABOUT $100 BUCKS AND I ONLY PAID $80 FOR THE INSTALL. HOPE THIS HELPS.(P.S. I WAS TOLD NOT TO REMOVE THE RESONATOR THAT SITS AT THE BUMPER BECAUSE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF GETTING AN EXHAUST DRONE WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY)

Thank you for your response. 4 months ago, they had already changed the BCM and didnt investigate further to see what made the BCM go bad. I got my Jeep back and it ended up being $650 (so total of $1400!!!). They said there was a short with the wires (it took them 9 hours to find where it was!!!). They claim that some wires had corrosion which melted the wires causing the short. I am trading in my jeep today for a Mazda RX-8 and I am NEVER buying a Jeep again! I was going to file all kinds of complaints but now I am at a point where I just want to put it behind me and try to think they had good intentions. Thank you for your message! Good luck with your Jeep!

I have a 98 JGC with 50k miles that has been driven with care. About 6 months ago I started hearing a sloshing sound on the passenger side near the dash when I turned a corner, rounded a curve, etc. and it got louder and more frequent over time. The dealer told me I needed a new radiator to the tune of approx. $750. The problem came back within days and got worse again. The dealer fixed it again for no charge, and within a couple of days the problem is back. Apparently there is coolant sloshing around in the hose but why it cannot be permanently fixed is beyond me. It is really loud and annoying. Any suggestions?