CLOAKED IN GLORY | Quail is delicious but quite lean. Wrapping the bird in pancetta makes for a richer and more substantial dish.
James Ransom for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Heather Meldrom, Prop Styling by Stephanie Hanes

JOSEPH LENN would say that this recipe for grilled quail wrapped in pancetta, served alongside a tomato-pesto salad with warm croutons, belongs as much to his grandmother, Juanita Evans, as it does to him. Mr. Lenn credits her with teaching him to cook simply and without compromise—lessons he relies on to this day at Blackberry Farm in eastern Tennessee.

The Chef: Joseph Lenn

His Restaurant: The Barn at Blackberry Farm, Walland, Tenn.

What He's Known For: Creating dishes with poetic simplicity in the Smoky Mountain foothills. Locavorism with Southern charm.

"Once," the chef recalled, "she served dessert and said to me, 'I had to remake those cakes three times.' What she made for the family had to be perfect, and that has affected the way I cook."

Though Mrs. Evans never wrapped a bird in Italian pork—before Mr. Lenn went to culinary school she said to him, "Honey, I don't care for gourmet food"—this quail doesn't wear its pancetta cloak frivolously. "It adds a smoky element and contrast," Mr. Lenn said. "When you bite in, the pork really enhances it."

The pancetta may peel away a bit as the quail cooks, but you can piece it back together before serving. Anyway, the salad is pretty enough to compensate for any flaws, thanks to a brilliantly green pesto made with blanched basil. "If you don't blanch the leaves," the chef explained, "they bruise. This way, it comes out brighter." Then he added, ever the perfectionist, "People eat with their eyes, too."

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What to Do

1. Light a grill. On a stove, bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Lightly season quail with salt and pepper. Lay 3 pieces pancetta on a cutting board, with edges overlapping halfway. Lay a quail half across one end of pancetta stips. Roll quail to snugly wrap in pancetta until all but leg is covered. Repeat with remaining quail halves and pancetta and set aside, seam-sides down.

3. In pot of boiling water, blanch basil until bright green, about 5 seconds, then plunge basil into a large bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Once cool, remove basil and wring out excess water. Place basil in food processor with oil and garlic. Purée until a uniform sauce forms, 1-2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and stir in Parmesan. Season with salt and set aside.

5. Spread bread on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 7 minutes. Toss tomatoes with a pinch salt, vinegar and enough pesto to lightly coat. Toss in croutons and season with salt and pepper to taste. To serve, divide quail and salad among four plates.

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