Dining review: Panama Restaurant's a welcoming space

MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS of the Panama Hotel and Restaurant came in a steady wave. Perched on the edge of San Rafael's Gerstle Park neighborhood where there once was a train depot, the building that houses both businesses is unassuming and quiet. A pink neon "hotel" sign insists on being seen. Walk through the front door into an oasis of calm. Shielded from outside by a high, wood-slat wall, the patio is a refuge scented by potted plants, a tranquil spot for a pre-dinner cocktail, game of cards or a meal.

Pass through the lapis-framed orange doors into the restaurant. Awash in the glow of the linen-shaded table lamps, the room feels cozy and welcoming. Look right, and there is a disco ball hanging from the ceiling. Up ahead, an oil painting on a high shelf surrounded by tchotchkes. Over there, a pair of boots from early in the last century and a set of ceramic cups with a matching pitcher.

The restaurant, open since 1937 (the hotel was built in 1910), began as a Mexican restaurant. Purchased in 1984 by Dan Miller and his family, the restaurant now serves California cuisine with influences from the Caribbean, Mexico and elsewhere. The menu shifts a bit with the seasons, but some dishes last quite a bit longer. Maria Gargiulo's pueblo chicken tortilla soup ($6 small, $9 large), has been on the menu since 1937 when she and her husband, Joe, owned the buildings and the restaurant was called Maria's Pueblo.

"It is the same recipe as back then," says general manager Josh Biller.

Made with mild Mexican chorizo, steamed mussels ($14) tasted briny and fresh, the golden broth enriched with fennel and thyme. The wild mushroom ravioli ($13), featuring Marin Pasta Works pasta and topped with spiced walnuts, sage and a lemony beurre blanc, were mild and sweet, a very autumn dish.

Baja seafood salad ($13) is a signature dish of the restaurant. Served atop a bed of beans, greens and corn, and tossed with a lime vinaigrette, the scallop medallions, shrimp and salmon were grilled simply. It was plenty of food, but the dish lacked interest.

The pork chop ($23) takes its cues from the Caribbean. Marinated in rum and brown sugar and glazed with a mustard sauce, the pork was spiked with the warm, round flavor of cinnamon. The accompanying rice pilaf was sprinkled with peas and onions, making it toasty and festive.

Mary's free-range organic chicken breast ($19) was the surprise of the night. First marinated in rosemary, garlic and olive oil, the breast is oven roasted and splashed with a porcini vinaigrette that renewed my faith in restaurant chicken and reignited my belief in the umami power of mushrooms. Take a pass on the bland spinach on the plate, and dig into the creamy bliss of the garlic sformati.

Wines span the globe and include offerings such as the Espino Merlot from Chile and a Bersano Gavi from Italy (each $10 or $36 for a bottle).

The atmosphere is familial and, to be expected of a restaurant with so many years under its belt, attracts a dedicated following. Our server was clearly at ease in his role, cracking jokes that creaked with age yet ignited laughter and good will from the table.

The Panama Restaurant knows what it is. The flavors and platings are not edgy and the dishes are mostly familiar. The kitschy adornments and retro disco ball do not alter the relaxed atmosphere and warm welcome that, by now, is Panama's second nature.

Christina Mueller writes about food — restaurants, chefs, products and trends — for local and national publications as well as other industry clients. Send her an email at ij@christinamueller.com.