When we featured Robert Courturier's springtime dinner party in our 25th anniversary issue, everyone wanted to know one thing: How do you make that delightful cream puff swan?

Renowned chef Thomas Keller came to the rescue, providing detailed instructions straight from his upcoming book, Bouchon Bakery. Here's what you'll need to get started:

If you have two ovens, use them, as the necks and the bodies bake for different times, and pâte choux generally bakes best in the center of the oven. You will have extra batter, but it's a good idea to pipe extra bodies and heads/necks so you can use the best ones—or pipe and freeze the extras to bake another time.

You'll need a spray bottle and three pastry bags: one with a ¼-inch plain tip, one with an Ateco #829 star tip, and one with an Ateco #867 French star tip.

1. Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper and pipe a bit of pâte à choux under each corner to attach the paper to the pans. Fill the spray bottle with water.

2. Fill the pastry bag with the plain tip with about 80 grams (½ cup) of the pâte à choux for the heads and necks. Fill the pastry bag with the #829 star tip with the remaining pâte à choux for the bodies.

3. For the bodies: Use about 50 grams of pâte à choux for each body: Begin by piping the rounded neck end of one body on one of the sheet pans, then continue piping, pulling the bag farther away each time, to narrow the body, and finally twisting the bag to create a tail. Repeat to form a total of 8 bodies.

4. For the heads and necks: Use about 5 grams (.18 ounce) of pâte choux for each head and neck: Pipe a head ½ to ¾ inch in diameter on the second baking sheet, then continue piping an S shape, stopping short of completing the final curve of the S. Form a small beak by piping a dab of pâte choux on the head and pulling the bag away from the head to narrow it and form a point. Repeat to form a total of 8 heads/necks.

5. Spray the bodies, heads, and necks lightly with water. Place the bodies in the upper third of the oven and the heads/necks in the lower third. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. After 15 minutes, turn the heads/necks over and continue to bake for 5 minutes, or until they are golden brown and dry. Because the necks are so thin, it is important to keep a close eye on them. When they are done, remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack.

6. Continue baking the bodies, for a total of 40 minutes, at 350°F. Then reduce the heat to 325°F and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300°F and bake for 20 minutes longer, or until the bodies are golden brown and thoroughly cooked; they should feel light. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack and cool completely before filling or freezing.

7. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top third of each body, being careful not to cut off the tails. Set the bottoms aside. Cut the tops lengthwise in half to create the wings; set aside.

8. For the mousseline: Place the pastry cream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on medium speed until smooth. Add the buttercream and whip until well combined and smooth.

9. Fill the pastry bag with the #867 tip with the whipped cream. Spoon the mousseline into the bodies. Beginning at the back end, pipe a spiral of the whipped cream over the mousseline in each body. Arrange the wings on the swans, gently pushing the cut sides of the wings into the whipped cream, just to anchor them. Do the same with the heads/necks.

1. This pâte à choux dough is a little stiffer than the version we use for the cream puffs. Because the cream puffs are molded, the dough can be fairly loose. The éclair dough is piped onto sheet pans, so it needs extra body to hold up.

2. You'll need a pastry bag with an Ateco #867 French star tip.

3. Combine the flour and sugar in a small bowl. Using the proportions above, make the dough as directed in the cream puff recipe (slides 2-3), adding the flour and sugar mixture in the same way and adding all the eggs.

4. Transfer the dough to the pastry bag and refrigerate until cold before using.

Note on Freezing: Pâte à Choux for Eclairs is not ideal for freezing before baking because the lines created by using the French star tip can be compromised when you wrap or cover the dough in order to freeze it.

1. Set up an ice bath. Place a medium bowl in the ice water and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.

2. Put the yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the yolks, and mix on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds. Reduce the speed to low and slowly pour in the sugar, then whisk on medium speed until lighter in color, about 1H minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then whisk on medium-high speed for about 3 minutes, until the mixture is pale yellow and thick. When the whisk is lifted, the mixture should form a slowly dissolving ribbon.

3. Reduce the speed to low, add the custard powder or flour, and mix for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, slowly pour in the milk. Scrape the bowl again and mix on low speed for another minute, or until combined.

4. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, set over medium heat, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. Switch to a whisk and whisk as the cream comes to a simmer, rotating the whisk around the bottom to keep the cream from scorching. Once you see bubbles breaking the surface, cook for about 5 minutes longer, whisking constantly, until the pastry cream has thickened.

5. Pour the pastry cream through the strainer, pressing gently on it to push the thickened cream through. Whisk for about 1 minute to cool slightly, then whisk in the butter in 2 additions.

6. Pour into a covered container and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.

7. When ready to use the cream, transfer to a bowl and stir gently until it has a creamy consistency.

Note on Custard Powder: We like to use Bird's custard powder instead of flour for a richer pastry cream with a brighter color.

1. Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

2. Place the 150 grams (3/4 cup) sugar in a small saucepan, add the water, and stir to moisten the sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, and simmer until the syrup reaches 230°F/100°C.

3. Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed, gradually pour in the remaining 33 grams (2 tablespoons plus 2G teaspoons) sugar into the whites, and whip until the whites are beginning to form very loose peaks. If the whites are ready before the syrup reaches 248°F/120°C, turn the mixer to the lowest setting just to keep them moving.

4. When the syrup reaches 248°F/120°C, remove the pan from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium-low speed and slowly add the syrup to the whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk for 15 minutes, or until the bottom of the bowl is at room temperature and the whites hold stiff peaks. (If the mixture is warm, it will melt the butter.)

5. Reduce the speed to medium and add the butter, a few pieces at a time. If at any point the mixture looks broken, increase the speed and beat to re-emulsify it, then reduce the speed and continue adding the butter. Check the consistency: if the buttercream is too loose to hold its shape, it should be refrigerated for up to a few hours to harden, then beaten again to return it to the proper consistency.

Note: Buttercream can be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 1 month; defrost frozen buttercream in the refrigerator overnight before using. Thirty minutes before using the buttercream, place it in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and allow to soften. Then mix on low speed to return the buttercream to the proper consistency for piping or spreading.

We like to use a high-fat cream (40%) for our whipped cream; do use it if it's available to you. My executive pastry chef, Sebastien Rouxel, uses powdered sugar because it dissolves more easily than granulated sugar. It's best to whip the cream just before you need it; although you can whip it in advance, it tends to break down in the refrigerator. But taking cream from liquid to soft, silken peaks is a matter of less than a minute.

Small Batch: Makes 150 grams (1 1⁄2 cups)

½ cup + 2 tablespoons (150 grams) Heavy cream

2 ¼ teaspoons (5 grams) Powdered sugar

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Medium Batch: Makes 300 grams (3 cups)

1 ¼ cups + 2 tablespoons (450 grams) Heavy cream

1 ½ tablespoons (10 grams) Powdered sugar

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Large Batch: Makes 450 grams (4 1⁄2 cups)

1 ¾ cups + 2 tablespoons heavy cream

2 tablespoons + ½ teaspoon powdered sugar

1 ½ vanilla beans, split lengthwise

Steps:

1. Place the cream and powdered sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the cream.

2. Whisk at medium speed until the cream holds a shape when you lift it on the whisk and, if you will be piping it, is just stiff enough to be piped through a pastry bag; do not overwhip. It is best to spread or pipe the cream immediately after whipping.

For more of Keller's baking secrets, pick up his new cookbook, Bouchon Bakery. Named after his renowned cafe, the book features detailed instructions for making a variety of treats, from eclairs and macarons to croissants and Keller's twist on the classic sandwich cookie, the TKO. Find it on Amazon or at major booksellers nationwide.

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