FYI, as far as i can tell, the lady in question has activated what's called an "out
of office assistant." She has programmed her computer to automatically respond
with a canned message to any incoming mail message.
>
>Something like this happened on another list and folks went crazy... it'll
>be interesting to see what happens here.
>
>
>
>>I will be away from the office from April 24 through
>>April 28. If you are in need of an immediate response
>>please contract Kathy Gray at 272-8430 or
>>Kgray salud.unm.edu.
>

About 8,000 miles ago (59,000 on the truck currently), I noticed that
the
idle on my '94 Splash 4.0L was beginning to get a bit rough. At the
exhaust outlet it almost sounds like a miss of sorts - every two to
four
seconds it will sort of 'puff'. At about the same time, the
temperature
gauge begin to cycle from midway to very near the bottom of the gauge.

I took it to the dealership and they told me that this was pretty
typical
for a truck with this many miles on it that was almost four years old
-
which I expected them to say.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the rough idle
problem, and, could the fluctuating temperature be related, or is it
just a
coincidence?

I haven't gotten into this (or these) problems much yet, since they
don't
seem to affect the performance or mileage of the truck, although both
problems seem to be getting more pronounced. Figured it high time to
diagnose this one before I have a serious problem on my hands.

Eric,
had a similar problem with my 91 4.0 except that the rough idle and
temperature readings did not occur at the same time. The temperature
reading was a bad temp sensor. The rough idle was clogged or dirty
injectors. I had the injectors professional cleaned where they
disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and run it off a
pressurized tank with injector cleaner. Cost was around $70. You can
now hardly hear it idling it so smooth. Hope this helps.

I have a 92 Explorer that has developed a similar rough idle. It also seems
to lose coolant, a bad sign, I know. Fuel economy is in the toilet, about 14
at best around town. I have a feeling it might be the old troubled head or
head gasket known to develop in these 4.0Ls. You might want to check your
fuel economy and coolant if you haven't already. I also sense a bit of a
"sweet" (read antifreeze) odor when the truck is first started at times. I
have yet to get it looked at, but will soon.

I have a 1997 F-350 4x4 pickup that I bought in late December of last year.
About 2 months ago, I had the foam in the XLT bench seat replaced because the
wire spring was cutting into it on the corner portion of the driver's side of
the seat. I do not hop in and out of the truck like a cowboy, but as you
know the truck is tall and I do have to hoist myself up a bit to get in, so
I'm sure I slide on it a little bit. Unfortunately, I again noticed little
bits of foam underneath the seat today and sure enough--the spring is cutting
it again. Has anyone else had this problem? I can't believe that I am
abusing the seat this much by getting in and out to cause the foam to
deteriorate so quickly. I am starting to suspect that maybe the spring is
not properly tensioned or that there is something else at fault. I don't
know how many more seats Ford will replace before they start blaming me.

Try filling the empty cavities of your vehicles with a product called "Great
Stuff" it should be sold in the home repair area at Wal-mart for about $3
per can. I have a 78 f-150 and was trying to hold the noise from the stereo
inside the cab. I used one can to fill the cab corners from the bottom of
the cab to the strike plate for the door latch. It is a foaming insulation
and it hold sound in/out well. Just another thought....
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steven McCullough
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Sunday, October 19, 1997 9:39 PM
Subject: Crazy ideas

>I was thinking the other day about adding some more sound deadening
>material to
>my truck and my wifes car since we both do a good bit of highway driving
and
>the noise gets to us after a while (especially now that the speed limit is
>70 MPH)
>
>I've discovered that that dynomat stuff is outrageous in price, but all
this
>talk about spray-in beadliners got me to thinking that that stuff may make
>great sound proffing material for the floor pan of a vehicle.
>
>I saw some for sale at Wal-Mart of all places the other day...
>
>Does anyone have any experiences with the do it yourself stuff, does it
stink?
>(ie will it take a month before the stuff fully cures and quits smelling
like
>paint?) How far does a can go? Does it drift bad (do I need to cover
>every car
>within 30 feet?)
>
>Just a crazy thought?
>
>Steve
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

You (Bear) wrote:
> Try filling the empty cavities of your vehicles with a product called "Great
> Stuff" it should be sold in the home repair area at Wal-mart for about $3
> per can. I have a 78 f-150 and was trying to hold the noise from the stereo
> inside the cab. I used one can to fill the cab corners from the bottom of
> the cab to the strike plate for the door latch. It is a foaming insulation
> and it hold sound in/out well. Just another thought....

Danger!

2 points:

1) Be _VERY_ sure the foam you pick is not hydrophillic! Some of them
will attract and HOLD water as well as a sponge. You may have speedy
rust forming there soon... hmmm... weak metal doesn't reverberate
so much so _maybe_ rusted out metal is what you want [sarcasm off]

2) Parts of the inner structure of your car may be empty for a reason -
like pathways for escape of condensation, water channels, etc... you
risk doing very real damage to your car by just spraying the foam
in _just_ anywhere. Use your brain, please.

Don't ask how I know... there is an 85 Toyota Tercel in the
Philladelphia junkyard with 4-5 cans of that stuff in it...
fatal dosage... internal rust is kinda bad for an unibody car :-)

I have a 93 xcab without the pad for the rear seat headrest. I
noticed on the newer xcabs they had one. Does anyone know where I
could get a red one? Ford wants an arm and a leg of course.
Thanks in advance!

If it were a simple matter of replacing masses of gases of different
temperatures, you'd be right. But there's a lot going on in the
combustion chamber besides swapping gases.Injecting a small amount of
exhaust gas has the effect of cooling the *combustion* process, keeping
NOx formations down, and, at the same time, slowing the flame front,
reducing knock. The whole engine system is calibrated using this EGR as
part of the system; if you remove it, the computer will alter fuel flow
and spark timing, but the compression ratio and cam profile remain the
same. It's a crap shoot as to whether or not you introduce a significant
knock into the engine.
Altering one part of a complex system like a modern auto engine can have
results you never intended (or wanted!).
Bill Funk

>
>
> Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 15:40:24 -0500
> From: silent.bob juno.com
> Subject: Re: Exhaust
>
> On Sat, 18 Oct 1997 16:56:51 -0400 (EDT) Midwest96 aol.com writes:
> >He also said that it would not hurt an engine to
> >have
> >no backpressure on it, but that it would be really loud. I found
> this
> >doubtful...? What kind of performance increase would I get by
> >changing
> >exhaust? Thanx again,
>
> Ummm... You need back pressure or you can damage the valves.

I don't think that's true.
I think you need a way to prevent cold air from hitting the hot valves,
which means you need some sort of exhaust pipe to hold in some hot
exhaust.
I can't think of a way no back pressure itself can damage an exhaust
valve.
Bill Funk

> >>
> >> Ummm... You need back pressure or you can damage the valves.
> >>
> >
> >I have heard this as long as I have been involved with cars. I have
> >never understood why people say it. I have never seen any actual
> proof
> >either way. I did knock the entire exhaust manifold off a MF-175
> Tractor
> >when I was 12. I ran the tractor long enough to finish the mowing I
> was
> >doing and to drive it back to the shop. The valves lasted for another
> 23
> >years (of course we did put on a new exhaust manifold as soon as we
> >could get it). I don't think you could get much less back pressure
> than
> >that. It seems that Drag CArs run very short pipes. I would imagine
> that
> >properly sized pipes would have less back pressure than no pipes at
> all.
> >
> >Ed

Actually, a properly designed megaphone exhaust system will run
*negative* exhaust pressure, and these are still used in some motorcycle
race classes.A properly designed scavageing exhaust collector's sole
purpose is to use exhaust pulses to pull the exhaust from the other
pipes in the system, anso introducing negative pressures (look at a
4-cylinder motorcycle's 4-into-1 exhaust system, and see how the
collector is designed to rotate the exhaust pulses in a circular pattern
to pull the exhaust from the prior-firing cylinder pipe).
It's the cold air that can damage the exhaust valve, not a lack of
backpressure.
Bill Funk

Does anybody on the list know of a brand of 10W-30 oil that is ok to use in a
diesel?? The local parts stores around here used to sell a 10W-30 that was API
approved for both gas and diesel applications, but the oil appears to have
disappeared from the market. Now the 10W-30 that is sold is only for gas
engines. I know Valvoline makes a synthetic blend that is CD/CF approved.
But I don't really want to go to a synthetic, since I've used conventional for
the last four years and really don't want to mess with oil leaks, etc. I would
be grateful if someone could share with me what they know about this. Thanks

I have an 86 F250 with a 351. I just had the timing chain changed
(preventive maintenance) and now the truck has no power up hill, the
drive train is making noises, runs hotter than normal and it doesn't
want to stay running.

I just had to have it towed back to the shop that did the work. I'm
expecting the shop to come back and say 'Well it does not have
anything to do with what we did'. So I'll have to fork out a ton of
$$$ for them to tell me that it is something else. BUT, it was
running perfectly fine before they did the work.

All this talk about no backpressure just damaging your valves?
Question...why did Borla decide to run 2 1/4 exhaust tubing instead of 2
1/2 or even 3". If they could have got a bigger performance gain from
the larger pipes they would have used. If the point of getting a cat
back exhaust is getting more power dont you think every company is going
to try to top the others. Borla exhaust is already expensive...I dont
think the added cost of the larger pipes would have contributed to their
decision to go with the smaller pipes. More hp means they can ream you
on the price more.

In the '97 Borla catalog they actually said something about not using
excessively large pipes(in their opinion over 3")...I will try to find
the quote.

Oh yeah I have a 61 Dune buggy with a built 1835 in it. It runs much
better and stronger with a Supertrap muffler on it than with open pipes.
There is a reason you can take the discs out of the Supertrapp muffler.
It is tunable i.e. you can select the amt of backpressure your engine
NEEDS.

People pay a lot of money to get tuned exhausts for their cars and the
tuning has a lot to do with adjusting backpressure. Yes...people pay for
backpressure because you need some of it. I guess what I'm trying to say
is a lack of backpressure CAN make you lose power.

> Well,
>
> I have an 86 F250 with a 351. I just had the timing chain changed
> (preventive maintenance) and now the truck has no power up hill, the
> drive train is making noises, runs hotter than normal and it doesn't
> want to stay running.
>
> I just had to have it towed back to the shop that did the work. I'm
>
> expecting the shop to come back and say 'Well it does not have
> anything to do with what we did'. So I'll have to fork out a ton of
> $$$ for them to tell me that it is something else. BUT, it was
> running perfectly fine before they did the work.
>
> Any ideas on what could be causing this?
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net
> |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+

It sounds like they either did not adjust the timing after they
replaced the chain, or they did not line up the gears correctly. when
you replace the timing chain usually you have to adjust the timing
because it will change with the new chain. if they did not line up the
gears correctly it will cause the same problem as the timing being way
off. This is the sysmpoms that you get when the timing is all messed
up.

Steven,I've never tried the spray on bed liner but I have used both
rockford fosgate and stingers spray on noise killer. Both of these use
special spray nozzles kind of like what is used for undercoating. The
overspray was minimal if you keep air pressure down.The overspray wiped off
with thinner.These were somewhat inexpensive as compared to dynamat.I
believe I paid about $15.00 per can and I really laid it in thick.To do a
ranger extended cab floors/doors/rearcab area took 4 cans.

I was there when they were trying to adjust the timing. They were
unable to move the distributor. They tried and tried... But no luck.
From what they said, it was at 12 deg BTDC when it should be at 10
deg. I would not think that 2 deg would throw it off that much... But
I am used to non-emission vehicles since my '68 Firebird does not have
any of that stuff. :)

Jim wrote:

It sounds like they either did not adjust the timing after they
replaced the chain, or they did not line up the gears correctly.
when
you replace the timing chain usually you have to adjust the timing
because it will change with the new chain. if they did not line up
the
gears correctly it will cause the same problem as the timing being
way
off. This is the sysmpoms that you get when the timing is all messed
up.

Here's a new one that pooped up on my way back from St. Loius this
weekend.

I stopped to fill up the gas tanks. I filled both and switched over to the
front tank (it had about 2 gallons in it before I filled it, and I had been
running off the rear). When I tried to start the truck, it died right away, as
if the engine was not getting any gas. I tried to start the truck a number
of times. When I went to the rear tank, it started and ran like a champ.
When I got almost back to Chicago, I pulled off the highway to re-fill the
rear tank. Before I did, I tried the front tank again, and if I held the gas
pedal about 1/3rd of the way down, It tried to start for about 6 seconds,
and then finally caught. This morning when I left for work, it started right
up off of the front tank.
On the dual tank models, is there two sets of fuel injectors, or something
like that? I also thought maybe I had a clogged fuel line from the front
tank, but today it works fine. Also I have always been extremly careful to
never switch tanks unless the truck was off, so I don't think I screwed
anything up in that respect.

What year model, many of the ford trucks from about 1988 to 1993 or so had
problems with fuel pump failures. They usually get weaker and weaker (ie
it takes more cranking or longer times for the weak pump to pick up the
pressure). Mine got worse with time and was very very very reproduceable,
it did the same thing every time.

Sounds like your inlet screen on the pump could also be clogged.

Steve

At 03:28 PM 10/20/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Here's a new one that pooped up on my way back from St. Loius this
>weekend.
>
>I stopped to fill up the gas tanks. I filled both and switched over to the
>front tank (it had about 2 gallons in it before I filled it, and I had been
>running off the rear). When I tried to start the truck, it died right
away, as
>if the engine was not getting any gas. I tried to start the truck a number
>of times. When I went to the rear tank, it started and ran like a champ.
>When I got almost back to Chicago, I pulled off the highway to re-fill the
>rear tank. Before I did, I tried the front tank again, and if I held the gas
>pedal about 1/3rd of the way down, It tried to start for about 6 seconds,
>and then finally caught. This morning when I left for work, it started right
>up off of the front tank.
>On the dual tank models, is there two sets of fuel injectors, or something
>like that? I also thought maybe I had a clogged fuel line from the front
>tank, but today it works fine. Also I have always been extremly careful to
>never switch tanks unless the truck was off, so I don't think I screwed
>anything up in that respect.
>
>Any Ideas?
>
>Thanks!
>Tony
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>
Steven P. McCullough
Graduate Research Assistant
Section of Diagnostic Imaging Physics
U.T. M.D. Anderson Cancer Center
Office - (713) 792-0789
Fax - (713) 794-5272

I own a 1994 Ranger with a 2.3L I-4 engine and I need more h.p.! I don't
want to spend a lot of money on modifications (no more than $100 or so) and
I would like to increase power by about 10 h.p.
Buying a K&N air filter or a Tornado air management system have been
suggested. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I have a few questions about the 6.9/7.3 Liter Navistar Diesels.
First off are these two engines related, or even the same block (what's the
6.9's bore/stroke)? Also, was the 6.9 ever offered with a turbo and was the
7.3 ever not offered with one? Are only the newer 7.3's named "POWER
STROKE", and dose the PS's differ from the others.
Thanks
- -Tyler-
Tyler

sorry no help.. but a question.. Why do you feel it so important to only
switch the tanks when the truck is not running? I do it all the time and have
never had any problems...IMHO though I think you just expierienced some type
of relay logic failure in getting the tanks to switch. Maybe never happen
again.

I have an 86 Ranger 4X4 2.9. I am getting a code for "knock sensor" but am
unable to find one. Anyone know where its supposed to go? I presume it
would be on the left cyl head but so far cannot find it. I'm thinking that
when I had the engine rebuilt 5 years ago I didn't get the knock sensor
back (machine shop disassembled I reassembled). The engine blew up from a
computer failure which caused FI to starve 3 cylinders thus burning holes
in pistons while on a long trip. Am now on 3rd computer. 3rd EGR valve and
3rd throttle pos sensor. 135,000 miles on truck. 50K since o/h.
Next question: How long should I expect catalytic converter to last? I know
they will clog up but I would like to anticipate or prevent failure but
don't want to replace it if I don't need to I will be upgrading exaust
system in spring and only want to do it once.
Thanks if you all can help!
Buffalo Al

color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">I have an 86 Ranger 4X4 2.9. I am =
getting a code for "knock sensor" but am unable to find one. =
Anyone know where its supposed to go? I presume it would be on the left =
cyl head but so far cannot find it. I'm thinking that when I had the =
engine rebuilt 5 years ago I didn't get the knock sensor back (machine =
shop disassembled I reassembled). The engine blew up from a computer =
failure which caused FI to starve 3 cylinders thus burning holes in =
pistons while on a long trip. Am now on 3rd computer. 3rd EGR valve and =
3rd throttle pos sensor. 135,000 miles on truck. 50K since o/h.Next =
question: How long should I expect catalytic converter to last? I know =
they will clog up but I would like to anticipate or prevent failure but =
don't want to replace it if I don't need to I will be upgrading exaust =
system in spring and only want to do it once. Thanks if you all can =
help!Buffalo Al86 Ranger 4X494 Explorer Sport89 =
Escort GT Rally Car (soon to be Cosworth)

Tony Rio wrote:
>
> Here's a new one that pooped up on my way back from St. Loius this
> weekend.
>
> I stopped to fill up the gas tanks. I filled both and switched over to
> the
> front tank (it had about 2 gallons in it before I filled it, and I had
> been
> running off the rear). When I tried to start the truck, it died right
> away, as
> if the engine was not getting any gas. I tried to start the truck a
> number
> of times. When I went to the rear tank, it started and ran like a
> champ.
> When I got almost back to Chicago, I pulled off the highway to re-fill
> the
> rear tank. Before I did, I tried the front tank again, and if I held
> the gas
> pedal about 1/3rd of the way down, It tried to start for about 6....

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