Guys,
The current plan (for board Buzz mentions) is to use a 4x each rail 35mm diameter caps for a board that is built to be compact as possible, but still use Panasonics 4pin 35mm 22,000 50v caps, or larger ones with less voltage. It is meant to be a generic dual rail power supply, but carry enough capacitance to work with F5T. At the time of development, all of the F5T stuff CRT and myself have been designing was meant to be an alternative to ToeCutters work, for different purposes. Buzz's group buy was to cater to that.
If anyone has a functioning board and the Gerber file for the Toecutter Power supply, I don't mind getting a limited amount of them printed up. But as I understood it ages ago - there were some layout issues with it.

Here is a pic of the current Power supply board we are working on. About 210mm x 90mm
Supports 4x 35mm caps per rail. One 10+ watt resistor for for R in CRC, or you can stack a couple of lower watt ones. MUR diodes meant to chassis mount or heatsink mount with optional snubber mounting for caps and diodes. All should fit little terminal blocks on input and output. Material will be 2.2-3mm think with 2 or 3oz copper. Not meaning to have commercial post - but an option that is out there.

The new PSU PCB in the store will have a snap-off part with just the diodes, which can then be folded down to bolt to a surface.
On the diyAudio chassis' the front panels are 10mm thick so someone could drill and tap them (need a drill press set so it won't drill through! and a regular tap and a flat bottomed tap) on the back to accept the diodes, and that would be a pretty decent PSU diode heatsink IMHO.

you are better of if you place transistors and diode like this:
from the center of the board. diode, transistor, diode, transistor.
that way you will have more space between the 2 inner transistors. and can get a more even heatsink temp when you are using 2 sinks side be side. when the transistor is placed close to the edge of the sink, you will get a hotspot around the edge.

Here is a pic of the current Power supply board we are working on. About 210mm x 90mm
Supports 4x 35mm caps per rail. One 10+ watt resistor for for R in CRC, or you can stack a couple of lower watt ones. MUR diodes meant to chassis mount or heatsink mount with optional snubber mounting for caps and diodes. All should fit little terminal blocks on input and output. Material will be 2.2-3mm think with 2 or 3oz copper. Not meaning to have commercial post - but an option that is out there.

A lot of people have already paid and received/waiting Buzz's F5T premium kit GB (which was a very good bargain for the quality/price we paid). However the kit included 7 PSU CRC resistors per rail as in NPs' original F5T article, so I'd think most of us would like to see a PSU pcb with those resistor setup in mind. Apart from that, the posted pcb is brilliant, narrow and with 8 total caps positions. My only suggestion is to change the CRC single resistor from parallel position to a 7 resistors scheme (or maybe 4 resistor positions and stack double resistors on 3 slots) between double caps on each side of each rail.

you are better of if you place transistors and diode like this:
from the center of the board. diode, transistor, diode, transistor.
that way you will have more space between the 2 inner transistors. and can get a more even heatsink temp when you are using 2 sinks side be side. when the transistor is placed close to the edge of the sink, you will get a hotspot around the edge.

Thanks,
I had this heatsink in mind while designing. I tried to keep equal spacing from edges as well as between MOSFETs.

Indeed, one can stack 7 resistors in the proposed PCB and make it work, but to be honest it will look really crappy and odd. And I know TeaBag has a knack for really tidy and cool looking PCBs (his DCB1 was outstanding and also his F5T boards, from what I can see from Buzz's pics and hopefully in his next GB see it from close since I'll probably try both DiyStore and TeaBag boards) which I'm trying to take advantage of! :P