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His restaurant is everything that isn’t hip. Yet self-taught cook Karam Sethi’s food scored a perfect 10 from Times reviewer Giles Coren – and he has the likes of Heston and René Redzepi fighting for tables

Finally, it’s happened. For the first time in 15 years of reviews, the Times
restaurant critic has given a perfect 10 for what he described as the
tastiest meal he’s ever eaten.

So who is this chef who has tamed Giles Coren’s snarling taste buds? A
venerable sushi master from Kyoto? A multi-Michelin-starred disciple of the
traditional French school? Not at all. Karam Sethi is a self-taught chef
born and bred in Finchley, North London, and one who, by his own admission,
finds such attention “very humbling”.

In the three months since it opened, his restaurant, Gymkhana, has been
universally