When the price of beauty is pain

Lynne Page does not feel properly dressed unless she is wearing a light touch of foundation, lip colour and some lash-lengthening mascara. For the past six months, however, Page, who choreographed Jamie Bell’s nifty moves in the film Billy Elliot, has not been able to wear any make-up at all.

“Even the tiniest amount of concealer made my eyes puff up and redden,’’ she says. “It was terrible because I work in an industry where appearance is really important.’’

Page’s problem is not unique. She suffered a bad bout of cosmetic dermatitis. Modern cosmetics have complex formulations and usually contain a range of biocides and preservatives that kill bugs and lengthen the products’ shelf lives. Unfortunately, these chemicals can also wreak havoc with delicate skin. Perfumes are found in almost all cosmetic products, and they can cause irritation, too.

The trend for using multiple products also increases the risk of an adverse reaction. Many women use cream cleansers, serums and exfoliating creams before they even open their tubs of moisturiser, leading to chemical overload. New products containing trendy ingredients pose a potential risk.

Dermatologists say women can become sensitised to cosmetics and, far from being trivial, a resulting eczema-like rash can be uncomfortable and even distressing.

There are essentially two main types of cosmetic dermatitis. Allergic dermatitis is due to an inherited tendency and occurs when the body’s immune system reacts against a specific substance or allergen. People are not born with this type of allergy but develop it later in life.

Irritant dermatitis is more common, and is caused when someone comes into contact with a substance that damages the outer layers of skin. Untreated, the irritated skin eventually becomes hardened and wrinkled.

Page, 34, who was beginning to develop a network of fine lines around her eyes, had no history of eczema or allergies. The diagnosis was irritant contact dermatitis, probably caused initially by a cucumber face mask.

Creams and lotions are the most common triggers for cosmetic dermatitis, followed by perfumes and colognes. Hair dye, deodorants and eye make-up are all common potential irritants, too.

Although Page had used the cucumber product just once, she was still suffering from dermatitis six months later.

The cure was simple and effective. She was told not to wear make-up for at least two weeks. She was prescribed a daily dose of an anti-inflammatory cream to calm the irritated skin surface. During this time, she applied a delicate moisturiser to her face to replace the skin barrier she had lost.

Many women, however, develop a make-up allergy that cannot be reversed. An unknown trigger can set off the sensitivity to a substance. The only option in these circumstances is to avoid products that cause the problem.

Fragrance-free cosmetics include products by Almay and Neutrogena. If in doubt, test a product before use on the face by applying it to the forearm twice a day for a week to see if it causes a rash.