Italy's national chamber of fashion (CNMI) expects the industry to make 62.5 billion euros ($85.91 billion) in revenue in 2014, returning to sales growth after two years in decline.

The trade body has set up billboards at Milan's airports reading "Welcome to Milan Fashion Week" and is streaming catwalk footage to screens around the town.

So far, high-profile attendees have included Salma Hayek, who watched a Gucci show with her husband Francois-Henry Pinault, chief executive of the label's owner Kering.

British pop star Cheryl Cole sat in the front row at Saturday's show for Roberto Cavalli, who said on Wednesday fashion should be less linked to celebrities, but admitted he was pleased when famous people wore his clothes.

"I loved the concept with the fire. He did such a great job," Cole said after the show. Asked what she was wearing, the singer replied, "Cavalli, of course."

"You should not be too influenced by fashion, but by what looks good on you," designer Ermanno Scervino said before the show.

FAMILY TRADITIONS

The current catwalk calendar is dominated by smaller companies, the majority of which have annual turnover below 25 million euros, according to consultancy Pambianco, a feature the editor of Italian Vogue said was part of the country's identity.

"Italy has grown up through families ... there is no other country in the world that is like that," said Sozzani.

"In the oldest kind of brand you have the mother, the father, the daughter, the brother-in-law. They are strong when you put them all together."

CNMI's new chief executive Jane Reeve said there was work to be done to support smaller companies, but more brands meant more variety.

"People want choice," said Reeve, who has said she wanted to bring the benefit of her international experience as an advertising executive to the fashion trade association.

"We as the (CNMI) can help to put those small and medium companies in contact with banks," she said. "But it's not just about funding - knowledge is a currency as well."