Best suspension setup

Just curious what those of you who take your cars to the drag strip or mexico run on your cars? My last car I ran cobra jet springs with strange shocks and struts, although it was a considerable amount lighter than this one...

Running BMR GT Drags in back. BMR LCA's, relocation brackets, UCA (adj.) and HD mounting bracket, FRPP panhard bar (Sorry Dylan got it for $75 still in box), Lakewood 50/50's on the rear. Just received Strange single adjustables and BMR GT500 drag springs for the front. Oh all poly bushings.

I will admit, as big a fan as I am of BMR, after seeing the Metco UCA at NMRA BG this past fall, I would be tempted to spend the few extra bucks for that piece and its HD bracket. Otherwise its BMR all the way for me. Great service from BMR.

is there a suspension set up for a bit of everything? drag and the twistes

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Adjustable shocks/struts are always a good way to go, along with some lowering springs and lca relocation brackets. If your rear axle is off center after lowering then you'll want an adjustable panhard bar. That should be a pretty solid setup for a street car. I'd do that and some sticky tires and be done.

is there a suspension set up for a bit of everything? drag and the twistes

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You can make it better at both, but I think you'd have to be willing to make a few adjustments going from either one of those uses to the other to get the most out of what's possible. Even still, you probably won't be able to actually optimize it for either (short of wholesale parts swapping every time you want to do the other kind of driving with any seriousness at all). A little wrench work is required, but with respect to completely removing and swapping/re-installing parts, it'd only be one front endlink.

You would definitely want rear LCAs with spherical joints on at least one end, and maybe LCA relocating brackets with multiple adjustment holes. You might end up using the lower holes at the dragstrip, and find the handling too "loose" for you the rest of the time and particularly during sudden slalom-type or emergency avoidance maneuvers (where you'd want to be able to use higher holes). Two bolts here.

"Handling" springs, for the increased rates, and the less lowering the better. You don't gain nearly as much cornering grip from lowering as the lowering suggests, and the lower CG height directly hurts the dragstrip performance (less rearward load transfer under acceleration).

Adjustable front and rear stabilizer bars, and front endlinks that can easily and reliably disconnected for the dragstrip time. A rear bar that in addition to a setting that balances your front bar in cornering situations, also has a firmer setting that you'd want for cornering. Two bolts for the rear bar adjustment, two more for the front endlink.

Adjustable shocks & struts - which could be coilovers up front anyway. Best damping for the strip won't be the same as for the street.

By my count, that's at most only six bolts plus adjustments at two shocks and two struts.

You'd probably benefit from a UCA with spherical joints at both ends - the drag racing doesn't want any soft rubber here, and the cornering needs what's called 'articulation'. OE rubber does that by distorting, or 'squishing', which most polyurethanes don't do very easily and can end up causing oversteer and other consequences when you try to force it to distort enough. But expect an extra helping of NVH with this mod.

The best overall street setting is probably going to be your 'handling' sta-bar adjustments with softer shock/strut settings and the 'high' adjustments on any relo brackets.