Kalinjar in the Basnda district
of Uttar Pradesh has an ancient fort which rises above agricultural
countryside. This mighty fort crowning a hill has been the scene of
historic battles, for 'Lord of Kalinjar' was a coveted title.

The origins of this stronghold are enmeshed in myths which link it to the
legendary Kind Bharata, as well as Lord Shiva. Historically, the fort is
associated with the Chandella rulers of Bundelkhand. A polished stone at
the entrance of the Neelkanth Temple proclaims the Chandella lineage.

Kalinjar was a Chandella stronghold from the 9th to the 15th Centuries,
and strategically important till the time of the Mughals. During these
centuries the fort was attacked by Mohammad Ghaznavi in 1019 and 1022 and
by Qutb ud din Aibak who in 1203 defeated the last Chandela ruler
Parmadideva. The Mughal emperor Humayun attacked the fort, but it was
Akbar who finally conquered it in 1569. He gifted it to Birbal, one of the
"nine jewels" of his court. From Birbal it passed into the hands
of Chhatrasal, the legendary Bundela leader and thence to Hardev Shah of
Panna before falling into British hands in 1812.

The town of Kalinjar was also encircled by ramparts pierced by four
gateways. Of these three remain - Kamta Dwar, Panna Dwar and Rewa Dwar.
The entrance to the fort is at the foot of the hill. To the right of the
path is the Rathore Mahal, built by Akbar in 1583. The steep and stony
path to the fort is +marked by seven gates - the Alamgir Darwaza, Ganesh
Dwar, Chauburji Darwaza, Budha Bhadra Darwaza, Hanuman Dwar, Lal Darwaza
and Bara Darwaza. Fine sculpted figures lend their names to these portals.

The
crest of the hill opens up to a mile long plateau where armies once
assembled. In this area are the remains of the Raja and Rani Mahal,
Chhatris, shrines and sati pillars. Raja Aman Singh's palace is marked by
a courtyard bordered by two rows of peacock arches. The palace has been
converted into a site museum by the Archaeological Survey of India. Stone
relics from the site and other rare sculptures found in the fort area,
including numerous Shiva images, Ganesh and other Vaishnavite deities are
preserved inside the palace building.

Among places of interest within the fort are Sita Sej, a small cave with
a stone bed and pillow once used by hermits; the Patal Ganga or
underground Ganga which is a reservoir cut in the rock; the Pandu Kund,
where water trickles from horizontal striations in the rocks; the Budha -
Budhi taal, whose waters possess great healing powers believed to cure
leprosy; the Gajantak Shiva image popularly known as Manduk Bhairon and
Bhairvi carved on the rock face ; and the Koti Tirth a large water
reservoir, are among important places of pilgrimage at Kalinjar.

Kalinjar's holiest shrine is the Neelkanth's Temple built by
Parmardideva. The way to the shrine is marked by weathered inscriptions
and marvellous carved images of shiva, Kala Bhairon, Ganesha and Hanuman.

Above the temple is the rock - cut Swarga Rohan Kund, In a niche by this
stands a colossal 18-armed figure of Kal-Bhairav. Ornamented with a
garland of skulls, this 24ft high image represents the fearsome aspect of
Lord Shiva. The Vankhandeshwar Mahdev Temple at the source of the
Shivasari Ganga is also of considerable importance.

EXCURSIONS

Chitrakoot 86 kms. Situated on the banks of the Mandakini, this religious centre is
scenically beautiful, and closely associated with the Ramayana.

Ajaygarh 96 km.
Ajay garh was a forest hill fort, meant to withstand long sieges. It was
once approachable by five massive gateways. Among important sites within
the fort are Paramal Tal built by Parmardidev and Ajaypal's temple.

Mahoba 109 km. The lesser known destination has several lakes created in medieval times,
the famous Sun Temple at Rahilla and ruins of temples built in the same
style as the ones at Khajuraho.

Khajuraho
172 kms. Site of the now world-famous temples built between 950 AD and 1050 AD by
the Chandellas. Yogini, Varaha, Lakshman and Kandaria Mahadeo temples.

PLACES TO STAY

Kalinjar has very little tourist infrastructure. Tourist are adviced to
carry food and drinking water alongwith. The market at Kalinjar provides
only seasonal vegetables, tea and milk. Mineral water, cold drinks, etc
are available enroute at Naraini.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Area : 5 sq. km.Population : 4000 (1991 census)Altitude : 381.25 mtrs. Above sea level Season : September-February (Kalinjar is at its best in the
monsoon i.e. August, but one should then be prepared for a hard trek.)Clothing :- (summer) : Cottons (winter) : WoollensLanguage : Hindi, Bundeli

Transport is not available locally. Jeeps or cars have to be hired in
route at Banda or Naraini. These can enter the fort through the newly
constructed approach road.
STD Code : 0519-70.