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The Perfect Pizza is an elusive animal. Mostly because everyone has his or her own idea of what makes a great pie. But I'd like to think of the pizza at Sicilian Oven as the Great Uniter; no matter what the preference -- Napolitan or New York style, wood- or coal-fired, thin and thick -- just about everyone I've brought to the Lighthouse Point pizzeria agrees it's fantastic stuff. Owner Andrew Garavuso is a firm believer in cooking with wood over coal; the stuff fires his twin stone hearths that serve as the restaurant's focal point. As a result, his pies are crisp without being overdone, with lovely bits of char that don't cross over to the burned spectrum. And pizza's just the half of it: Sicilian Oven serves some fine Italian food too, including marinara-smothered calamari, fire-roasted shrimp, mussels in white wine and garlic butter, pasta with pesto and cream sauces, and some truly amazing Sicilian-style rice balls.