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Was very easy. Took it to a shop near by with a lift. I've known the guys for a very long time and they'll let me help out on my own repairs, which I like to do. Its great because they have done pretty much everything under the sun and its nice having that experience around.

Have to say, the job was easier than expected. I was uneasy about the amount of fluid that was to be put back in prior to the job, knowing that the fluid is supposed to overflow, and something about that just seems inexact to me. After we drained the fluid, we marked on the bucket with a sharpie how much came out. We cleaned the bucket up and filled it with new fluid, just over the line and it gave us a pretty good indication how much to add. You have to be quick with pulling the tube and putting the filling bolt back in but we didn't lose too much. Started up with no problems and it runs great. It does seem to shift better, even if slightly. I haven't been experiencing any rough transmission stuff but still, it seems to be a tad better.

I'll add that the fluid that came out was black as hell. I am at 102k on the odometer. It feels pretty good to have done the job. I'm knockin on wood here but let me say, I feel very lucky with this car. Its been the most reliable problem free car I've ever had. I've put 39k on it and haven't had any issues beyond normal maintenance. Blue tooth module was bad when I bought the car but other than that, she has been a real joy. Of course, I don't rag her out like I might have fifteen years ago.

For those about to do the job, take note of the mechatronic sleeve before you take it out. It was fussy getting it back in far enough. Could shaved a few minutes off if I had done the job before. We needed to push it in just a tiny bit more than we thought. Never force it but with a bit of lube on the o-rings it went it with just a teeny bit of help from a cheater.

Good luck if you do it. If you need a great shop in Brooklyn to do the job, the guys at Wyckoff Halsey Auto repair know how now. I'd recommend them without hesitation. I ordered my parts from CTSC and bought the whole kit. Lastly, the tranny only held five quarts, I bought seven just in case. If someone wants to buy my other two, let me know.

Hey Josh, what year is your car? What kind of fluid did you buy? Did it take exactly 5 quarts? Did it take exactly as much as you took out? I've heard others take out a lot more than would go back in.. did you have to put in a few qts and then fire engine to put in the rest?

I have an '06. I put in ZF lifetime, which is what comes with the kit they sell at CTSC. One of my mechanic buddies commented upon feeling it between his fingers that the viscosity felt different than typical tranny fluid.

In my case it took exactly five quarts, though a little leaked out when putting the refill screw back in. It is damn near exactly what we got out of it. Pretty genius to mark the bucket on the outside with the volume removed, to have a fill line for the new fluid once the bucket is cleaned out. In my case, I drove over to them first thing in the morning. Long enough that the oil temp indicator on the tach went away, but not much longer than that. I did not need to drive car and add more fluid. After our first fill we capped it and that is all. Seems to be happy and driving very nicely. The refill took an hour and fifteen. . . some of that was us jacking with the mechatronic sleeve. Doing it again, would be faster for sure. Thats the way that goes. . . . . I could probably do an entire plug job in thirty to forty minutes now.

(Secret for the rear plugs is using small socket extensions and adding them on as you move the socket closer to the plug. I couldn't get any torque with the flexi-shaft socket extension. Also, using a socket extender as a bar to pull the coil packs instead of your finger. Huge time and finger saver!)

Good post. Bought the ZF oil pan / filter / fluid. Changing fluid tomorrow. I have a 04 745Li coming pretty close to 100k miles. Think she's at 97k now. As long as you take care of this car, they actually are pretty dependable.

Well guys I have my Redline D4, I bought 11 qts. If Josh used 5 I figured I would buy an extra one, and 10 should give me to drains.. I bought a pump to pump it in, and I am going to buy a bottle with measurements on it to see what comes out. I have read all the different techniques on here but basically at 5pm I am bringing it to my buddies mercedes shop where we will put it on the rack, drop the drain plug and then refill (Pan replaced by PO 6mnths ago). To refill I just pump back in with hand pump into fill plug and start and go through the gears and pump in more? Seems there are different directions wherever you look. Thanks!

Well guys I have my Redline D4, I bought 11 qts. If Josh used 5 I figured I would buy an extra one, and 10 should give me to drains.. I bought a pump to pump it in, and I am going to buy a bottle with measurements on it to see what comes out. I have read all the different techniques on here but basically at 5pm I am bringing it to my buddies mercedes shop where we will put it on the rack, drop the drain plug and then refill (Pan replaced by PO 6mnths ago). To refill I just pump back in with hand pump into fill plug and start and go through the gears and pump in more? Seems there are different directions wherever you look. Thanks!

Thanks, but does this cover the 03 745i? Can I check fluid from the computer on my car? Also, when I start car do I put plug on first and remove again, or just leave off and screw in as per above? I watched a video online and the guy was going from P to N D and R, but he didn't do the 1-6. Is he correct or these directions? Do I bother with N and R? Should I just do all? Do I need to check fluid again after going through the gears? Thanks! Keep in mind I am not dropping pan it was done a while back. Just using drain plug and fill plug. I will make sure fill plug loosens before proceeding with anything.

Thanks, but does this cover the 03 745i? Can I check fluid from the computer on my car? Also, when I start car do I put plug on first and remove again, or just leave off and screw in as per above? I watched a video online and the guy was going from P to N D and R, but he didn't do the 1-6. Is he correct or these directions? Do I bother with N and R? Should I just do all? Do I need to check fluid again after going through the gears? Thanks! Keep in mind I am not dropping pan it was done a while back. Just using drain plug and fill plug. I will make sure fill plug loosens before proceeding with anything.

Checking fluid level:
Connect BMW Diagnosis and Information System (DIS) or BMW MoDiC to vehicle.
Call up Service functions (drive).
Carry out fluid level check in accordance with instructions.
__________________

If you don't have access to these tools...just make sure once you go through the operations like stated above...once you open the filler neck on the pan that a stream of fluid tries to come out...that's when you know you have enough in there. If no fluid comes out, add more fluid.

PROCEDURE
Fluid Level Checking Procedure for all Transmissions without a Dipstick:

The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the transmission temperature.
The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
With the engine running and the selector lever in Park position, remove the filler plug located on the transmission (see picture for location). If a small stream of oil runs out, the fluid level is correct.
If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low. Add oil until it starts to overflow.
With the engine running, reinstall the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque. (Refer to section below for proper tightening torque)

Fluid Level Checking Procedure for all Transmissions with a Dipstick
(As of 02/91 the THM R1 transmissions are not equipped with a dipstick):

The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the transmission temperature.
The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
Pull out dipstick and wipe clean with a lint free cloth
Reinsert dipstick completely. Pull out dipstick and place bottom tip on a level surface, measure level from bottom tip as shown.

Okay so we changed the fluid tonight.. is there a way to tell if the pan is new by the stickers on it? It looks brand new, but who can tell? The drain plug was not tightening, it would strip like if you overtighten a soda cap and it jumps.. it's not leaking, but I am hoping I can just buy a new plug. Anyway, we got a little under 4 qts in it without dropping the pan. That is just drain plug.. I was going to do it twice but after the plug going back on I decided to wait until tomorrow and see if I can get a new drain plug. The pan has either been replaced or surely taken off before because there is a little silicone on the back pass. side corner bolt, but the fluid looked cooked. Not sure if you guys remember me talking about a noise I hear when the car is in gear at a stop, it's like a whirling noise from the TC. Well after about 2 miles it started getting much quieter.. We will see how it goes tomorrow after the next swap..

The drain plug is not a super torqueable piece. Its plastic on plastic, so if it needs mentioning, don't over-torque. As for all the procedures about checking the level. I can see nothing wrong with making measure of how much comes out and putting a just a bit more back in (to account for some being stuck in the filter in the pan. I'll add that after we drained the pan, the next step is to remove the pan, at which time one sees more free oil in the pan, that does not drain through the plug. If you really want to do a great job swapping oil, the pan should come down, and of course a new pan should be installed. To answer one question posted above: My new pan did not have the yellow sticker on it.

I am not sure how these things behave when "a little" low on oil, but CMC, your only getting four quarts out seems low to me. The oil left in the pan when we dropped it didn't look like it amounted to a quart. Have you been having issues with your transmission? Might it have been a little low?? Please report back as I am curious how your situation turns out. . .

The drain plug is not a super torqueable piece. Its plastic on plastic, so if it needs mentioning, don't over-torque. As for all the procedures about checking the level. I can see nothing wrong with making measure of how much comes out and putting a just a bit more back in (to account for some being stuck in the filter in the pan. I'll add that after we drained the pan, the next step is to remove the pan, at which time one sees more free oil in the pan, that does not drain through the plug. If you really want to do a great job swapping oil, the pan should come down, and of course a new pan should be installed. To answer one question posted above: My new pan did not have the yellow sticker on it.

I am not sure how these things behave when "a little" low on oil, but CMC, your only getting four quarts out seems low to me. The oil left in the pan when we dropped it didn't look like it amounted to a quart. Have you been having issues with your transmission? Might it have been a little low?? Please report back as I am curious how your situation turns out. . .

Best,
josh

I am assuming the filter in the pan could be holding the rest. Anyway, it shifts amazing today. I am very happy. I ordered a new drain plug and we are going to do another drain and refill. I got just a hair below 4 qts back in.. I had the engine running at regular temp. and we couldn't get anymore in there. I would think the fluid in the pan would account for a quart.. Could doing this while the trans was cold make a difference?

Well to save myself a full re-read here, I'll just say, if you put back in what you got out AND your car was running well before hand, I think there should be no strangeness post surgery. I only brought up the 4 quarts because it sounded as if you were unsure whether your car had someone futzing with your transmission prior to your working on it. It was in that case, that I wondered if someone didn't get enough fluid back in and was causing a noise you had a hard time putting your finger on.

To be frank, I don't know how much really should go in the damn thing or not, only that as it worked out for me, I had a car that was warm, not hot, got five quarts out and five quarts in and everything seems hunky dory. This is far from scientific, and the science-side of my brain is not being too nice to me for not have definitive answers, but the car several days later seems quite happy.

Well to save myself a full re-read here, I'll just say, if you put back in what you got out AND your car was running well before hand, I think there should be no strangeness post surgery. I only brought up the 4 quarts because it sounded as if you were unsure whether your car had someone futzing with your transmission prior to your working on it. It was in that case, that I wondered if someone didn't get enough fluid back in and was causing a noise you had a hard time putting your finger on.

To be frank, I don't know how much really should go in the damn thing or not, only that as it worked out for me, I had a car that was warm, not hot, got five quarts out and five quarts in and everything seems hunky dory. This is far from scientific, and the science-side of my brain is not being too nice to me for not have definitive answers, but the car several days later seems quite happy.

josh

Thanks

I was actually having the problem in the morning with the RPM's going up and down a couple hundred RPM's and that is now completely gone. I didn't measure how much came out, I would have liked to but the shop who's lift I used didn't have anything to measure with so we just drained. The car was warm and would only take 4 qts after starting it and going through the gears, etc. I have since bought a new drain plug which ended up having a new trans pan attatched to it (Ordered the plug, they sent the whole pan) so even though the pan looks new I am goinng to replace the pan and redo the fluid. I have 7 qts left, so I'll let you know how it goes, but just with the 4 new qts of Redline D4 I have noticed a considerable difference. Shifting is much nicer, no more RPM problems and searching in the morning and the car doesn't seem to always want to upshift and keep the RPM's at 1200RPM and bogging like it did before. It will hold the gears a little longer now, which seems normal to me.

Well I drained the trans again tonight, another 4 qts.. I had a brand new pan and sleeve and adapter, even though the pan on there is clearly new and aftermarket, but I figured what the hell.. Anyway, I bought four extra bolts even though I was seeing people online reusing.. we got one out and the rest just wanted to strip the torx.. one bolt actually broke our Mac tools torx bit.. my buddy who is a MB mechanic (We were doing it at the MB shop) was even saying, this is the stupidest design he's ever seen.. he said these are going to have to probably be broken out of there and we decided to just leave it be. I didn't have enough bolts.. anyway I need to replace my two front arms so I am just going to return the pan and parts and put towards my arms which are waiting to be picked up.. going to do them on thursday.. We got another 4 qts out, it was much cleaner looking tonight.. if someone replaced fluid 6mo ago like said (Obviously new pan) then this would be the either 3rd or 4th drain and fill, so I may consider doing another one a couple weeks down the road, but even one made a world of difference after about 20 miles.. can't wait to see how much better it gets now..

Greetings All
New member long time reader
I've been a long time reader and finally got around to registering. I would like to thank all whom post on the forum. This forum is like the news to me. I read it almost every day to see the latest issues. So far I have changed my rear brakes, plugs and transmission fluid from forum posts. I changed my trans fluid today using the ZF package.

All was going well until Murphy showed up. I think he follows me to the hobby shop sometimes when I work on my car. So I'm taking my trans bolts out you know just loosening them to make sure none are stripped before removing the fluid, Well one seems a little rough and I couldn't loosen it with fingers using extension and torx bit. I had to put the ratchet back on it to try and get it off. I crapped my pants when the bolt broke. Had a machine shop guy come over and try to get it out. He couldn't get it. So I had to put some RTV on the gasket along the line where the bolt #7 would be. I ran a bead of RTV from bolt 5 to 13. It seemed the bolt was either cross threaded or corroded in the hole. I had new bolts to put in and put anti seize on all of them. Hmmm. Recommend doing this if you plan on doing the multiple drain and fill. Personally I would use the ZF versus the multi vehicle fluid. It looks the same as what came out. The ZF is amber and not red. I must tell you my old fluid looked just like dirty engine oil. There was no problem with shifting or anything just performing preventive maint. I have 87K on it. Took it for a drive and it shifts good and there are no leaks. I was going to do the multi drain until it gets back to almost new looking fluid. Now I don't know about that...lol You know what my trans uses 21 bolts and I only purchased 20. Being a bolt broke I only needed 20. Is this why Murphy showed up.

I used two buckets using the idea of jkess114 putting the same amount in as I took out. However when putting the same amount in as I took out it was pouring out and was not a slow stream as I have read in the forum. The engine was still running. Also using a five gallon bucket and the transfer pump whatever comes back out during refill which was not much will go down the transfer pump tubing back into the bucket as long as the hose is still in where you put the fluid in. As stated you must pump fast with the engine running. The fluid and exhaust will get hot quick. Once I got finished putting fluid back in I had my drain plug in hand, removed the hose and put the plug back quickly. Again the fluid will get hot and the exhaust pipe will to. Being Murphy was around I did not change the sleeve as recommended.
Really want to thank all for your posts. I saved a grip so far. The dealer said the rear brake job was $850. So I've saved almost 3K thanks to you guys
Thanks