Thread: Organic based fertilizers

Does anyone know if the application rates are similar to synthetics or can you follow a more organic schedule? I'm a little confused since they seem to have both and am concerned about fungal problems from too much N.

Does anyone know if the application rates are similar to synthetics or can you follow a more organic schedule? I'm a little confused since they seem to have both and am concerned about fungal problems from too much N.

The application rates depend upon the product, but typically less N is required for organic based when compared to conventional ferts.

I disagree. Our state university did a study on synthetic fertilizer vs organic.and when using a meter to measure photosynthesis it took 5 applications of organic to match 4 application of synthetic. The higher the amount of water soluble nitrogen in the organic the better. Water insoluble organics are really slow acting.Posted via Mobile Device

What about the top organic program? Proper irrigation management, good clean cut = clean from cut to cut, so that the clippings are healthy end to end. Breaks down to nutrient properly along with earthworms enriching the soil. A properly matured landscape,,, has minimal requirements man made. Just needs man's wisdom. It's easy livin,,, when your stress free. Environmental reactions. Out perform imeadiat reactions. Real organics are developed not applied!Posted via Mobile Device

If a lawn requires .5 lbs of N for the next 4 weeks of healthy growth,,, then it requires .5 lbs of N for the next 4 weeks of healthy growth...
.3 lbs of N in the organics doesn't release the needed .5 lbs for the 4 week period ,,, does it???

What difference does it make if the water soluable N comes from a so-called organic fert or from urea??? Coated urea is also time release and therefore has an opportunity to continually feed out that .5 lbs over the 4 week period...

I don't see that organic N is anything safer than synthetic N, just more expensive and less effective... theremay be magic in the stuff, but no real information other than 'Believe' and the Magic will come true...

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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage,,, I wonder what does...
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I understand that Nitrogen is N and the soluble breakdown, but in the case of these hybrids one part (supposedly) increases microbial N and the other feeds the plant directly. I guess the issue is figuring how much of each and absorption ratios, since they are different for the two types. Maybe I'm over thinking this, which wouldn't be the first time..

Screamin Green 16-2-3 has 2 organic bases; composted poultry manure and biosolids. The compost is biologically active and provides some quick greenup and longer term nutrient cycling using the biosolids as a food source. This organic base is fortifed with 3 sources of "synthetic" N; Urea, Ammonium Sulfate and SCU.

The 5 N sources provide a long, steady release in an efficient manner. This process reduces surge growth but gives a deep green for up to 8-12 weeks while using about 1/3 less N than conventional fertilizers. It is applied at 4lbs/K.

University studies show the best results when adding 10 lbs of organic matter per 1000 sq ft annually. There is no "magic" involved. I'll be glad to help you with the calculations if you PM me.

I believe that NutriSphere or the Agrotain will be the wave of the future... certainly more of a practical solution than the randomness of bio-solids or dried manure pellets... I haven't heard anything recently about the large farm manure digesters, but they separate out the nutrients and incorporate them into a process for fertilizer... the Agrotain processes sound like the answer...

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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage,,, I wonder what does...
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