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Linear Screw Double Rail

About: Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech...
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The original screw driven rail lends itself nicely to having one of each on each side of a 3D printer. Up and down is accurate but BY itself, it doesn’t have a lot of lateral support.

Since I’m looking into cantilever designs, I revised the rail to introduce a second linear rod, widening and thus stabilizing the linear screw. I intend to use this implementation in a revamp of my Cantilever printer

I'm a big fan of Auto bed leveling so I did not design the End-stop as an integrated component but instead went with a detachable End Stop incorporating a much smaller micro switch

Step 1: Parts

There are 3 printed components to this rail (4 if you count the optional End Stop Case). The STL files are included. You can print using PLA (0.2mm 15% infill). All fittings are tight, so each 3D printer may need a little scaling tests.

following components can all be found on Amazon.com but if you have time and patience you can possibly source many from AliExpress.com for less.

Attachments

Step 2: Assembly

Like with the original Linear Screw Rail, All components were specifically designed for the 1010 aluminum extrusion WITH grooves. The attached picture shows the connections are strong. Holes have been added to the components to screw it on using a t-nut (I'v seen no need for that).

All components couple to the extrusion side ways (no caps). This allows for moving it for best position based on your use.

The lips on the Carriage are similar to the lips that clamp it's own components to the rail. This allows you to insert 1010 extrusion perpendicular to this rail. There are two holes with room between the SCSUU blocks for screws and possible t-nuts.

Step 3: Testing

I use the marlin software and a bare RAMPS 1.4 that is controller via pronterfaceI use Marlin 1.1.x to test and have the screw rail connected to the Z-axis In the Marlin configuration.h file make sure you set the proper length for the screw rail // Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)

Based on the length of the screw rail, rails lost in coupler and end end connector and the height of the carriage, the range for travel is 0 to 290mm. Not setting the Z_MAZ_POS in the configuration may damage the rail as it would try to travel beyond it's capacity.

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14 Discussions

Has your end connector held up well with regards to the lead screw? As a total newb to linear screws, I would wonder if the screw would slowly eat into the 3d printed end connector when it rotates and create some play in that hole. I was thinking that implementing a simple bearing into it may help with longevity if you are experiencing wear.

The end connector really just serves to keep the screw "in place". Some 3D printers simply have this end loose in the air. All structural support and rigidity comes from the 12mm rods. The only movement issues that can be caused by the screw are backlash (which could addressed with a back lash nut. In all my 3D printer I've never had the need for one of those either

Done, added new stl files (DoubleScrewRail_2040_STL.zip) in the parts step that use a 2040 rail as support and accepts a 2020 cross rail in the slider. I put the LC8UU as close together as possible, still allowing to tighten t-nuts from the back (to support the crossbar).

The 2020 and 4040 that you have around, does it have the grooves, or is it smooth? Much of the design is currently in the tight clip-on capability into the grooves.

I'm currently redesigning this rail for 12mm linear rods and LC12UU block. I was a bit surprised about the flexibility in the 8mm rod. After that I can look into 2020 and 4040. In return would you be willing to return the favor by considering to support me on Patreon.com? https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech ;-)

I sent you a message. Thx!! I will look into the linear Actuator as well. That one might be a bit more challenging as the timing belt runs inside the groove. Since it is more shallow (6mm compared to the 8mm in current design), creating a working slider might become a tight fit

If you have a shapeways account you can upload the STL files (included with this instructable) and order the parts that way. To be honest I just uploaded a single piece and it was $26. That's crazy. I can come up with a better price than that. Shoot me email at admin@core3d.tech