Thanks!!!!!We were just loose,loose,loose,added cross,was up to 53% still spun out.Nervo says 98lbs on the left rear wheel is to much,but I just cant seem to get away from it and keep that kind of cross %.After thought, I think I should have just locked the axel,were on ratchet.

Without knowing what the track width and panhard were set at it's hard to say. Rachet hubs are really picky on stagger too. If you miss much it will do stupid stuff like snap loose in the middle of the straight. We were running 1.25 in. of stagger locked so I would imagine the rachet hub would need about 1 in. Do you have a setup guide or somthing to use?

The best advice dad gave me when we started running our car was not to diagnose the exit of the car. Because 9 times out of 10, it's the opposite of entry. For example, if the car is tight on entry, most likely it's going to snap loose center out. So what we always do is diagnose entry before anything else. So sometimes, the car might be spinning out coming out of the turn, but that doesn't exactly mean it's loose.

I think at Kokomo, we run somewhere in the 29-32% cross range. Which some people would think is crazy but it's always worked really well for us. We took an entire practice day getting our driver acclimated to loose on entry and what we found was that the looser we make him on entry, the better he does and the better the car bites coming out of the turn. This is true with a ratchet and with it unlocked.

I agree. All day I thought I was fighting a "loose" condition off. It wasn't until I went outside turns 1 and 2 to watch the main to realize it was a combination of him entering early and being a bit tight on entry that was causing him to snap around on exit. Frustrating day, but I learned something.

Hang in there, Scott B. There's always going to be bad race days. But the good one's (& they do come) more than make up for the bad one's. Usually if you (humbly) ask to pick a successful handler's brain for a few moments - they'll provide you with some good information. Especially if you can catch them when they're "not" stressing about their own car/driver.

Unfortunately, racing doesn't come with a how-to manual - so the majority of things you'll have to pick up through you're own sweat & tears. But experienced handlers know this (they've been there), and most are willing to give you some ideas that will point you in the right direction. Just make sure that if they ask you to keep certain setup info they're sharing with you secret from your racemates (or theirs), that you do just that. And who knows, maybe one day you can return the favor & help "them" with something.

You've gotten some wonderful offers of help here on the board. So take advantage of it. You'll do just fine, these things just take time.....

The stagger & panhard settings sound about right. But I don't know anything about the track you were racing, 'cause we're in florida. And our home track is long (1/10 mile), flat asphalt with slightly banked corners.

The most important thing with making adjusting for track conditions is: the driver "has" to be driving the proper line. If he/she isn't driving the proper line, you're trying to diagnose problems that probably don't exist.

If you increase stagger by adding psi's to the RF, you're actually making the RF tire contact patch smaller (which reduces grip). That can make the car feel loose. If it was the RF that didn't want to stick, then I'd suggest reducing the RF tire pressure 1-2 psi's to see how that does. You can also try grooving the tire. But don't try to do this by yourself the first few times, because you can go too deep. Same goes for rear stagger & bite, just flip the logic around.

Also, when you make adjustments - make sure you only do one thing at a time & take careful notes of the change (with it's results), before adjusting something else. Otherwise, you won't know what adjustment worked/didn't work for your particular problem.

Whaitaminute. Changing stagger with air pressure is a big mistake. Changing air pressure changes the spring rate of the tire about 4 lbs per 1 psi so a change of 5 psi would be like adding 20 lbs of spring. You can stretch or shrink tires and change rim widths to get stagger but stay with the correct pressure.