Peixe In Portugal: The Numerous and Delicious Varieties of Portuguese Fish

In my very first article with Catavino, I described an amazing experience lunching on fresh grilled fish along the Portuguese coast, an event I eagerly anticipated for weeks. Today, I can still say that I dine out on peixe grelhado every weekend, and I look forward to it as much, if not more, than I did before. Clearly, I was hooked from the start!

The concept of grilling fresh fish whole in sea salt is a foreign concept to many of us in the States. Culturally, most North Americans have been brainwashed to cringe at the thought of eating anything that looks like it did when it was alive, fish included. But once you eat a fish in its entirety, like we do every weekend here in Portugal, it will be difficult to want it any other way!

Hence, I took some time to delve into the Portuguese fish culture, beginning with a local fisherman mending his nets. On a Sunday trip to the coastal city of Setúbal, I spent over an hour chatting with Carlos Manuel Jorge Cardoso, who has fished the high seas for over 50 years; a concept I can’t even imagine. Read full interview on Portuguese fish culture here.

Below are some of most common fresh fish found in Portuguese waters. The fish are divided by intensity of flavor, and the number of stars correlates to price (cheap*, affordable**, expensive***). However, if you’re looking for top seafood restaurants in Porto or Lisbon, we’ve got you covered:

Mild Portuguese Fish

Dourada * Gilthead Bream, probably the most common fish to appear on lunch counter specials during the week and as a main feature on the weekend. Very light, pleasant flavor, and a great first time fish.

Peixe Espada* Scabbard fish, not to be confused for swordfish, as it looks much more like a giant monster eel instead. The flesh is light, white and incredibly flavorful. Grilled in small, flat pieces rather than whole, it’s delicious.

Corvina * Croaker, can be found on lunch counter specials during the week. Grilled in postas, light flavor.

Robalo** European Seabass, slightly more flavorful than Dourada. The flavor is a bit stronger than Dourada but still light with tender flesh. It’s also a good first time fish that’s typically available in small, or large sizes, that can be shared between two people.

Linguado **/*** European Sole, commonly found both grilled (with butter because it doesn’t have enough fat for grilling) and fried. It’s more expensive when out of season.

Medium Portuguese Fish

Choco * Cuttlefish- Not really a fish, as it’s from the squid family. The best way to eat Choco is fried (famous in Setúbal) but they are also tasty when grilled or chopped up and served in their own ink!

Besugo ** Sea Bream, small with soft, white flesh and a very pleasant flavor.

Salmonete **/*** Striped Red Mullet, small but really flavorful, but can be quite expensive out of season. Only worth ordering when it’s in season (winter).

Intense Portuguese Fish

Sardinha * Sardine, the cheapest and strongest flavored fish found in Portugal and most associated fish in Portuguese culture. They are fished year-round but the best season to find them are “in the months without an “R” (May-August). Traditionally they are eaten whole over a fresh piece of bread, as the spines are small and thin enough to eat and the flesh is soft. Sardines are part of the blue fish family which makes them more nutritious than white fish – not that it really matters when you’re tasting through Portuguese delicacies!

Carapau * Mackerel, almost as cheap as sardines but even easier to find than the latter. Additionally, they aren’t nearly as strong in flavor, but still have a distinct and tasty character. Carapau are generally served with a molho espanhol “spanish sauce. made from onions, garlic, red wine vinegar, paprika and cilantro.

Joaquinzinhos* Very small Carapaus that are fried; these are illegal to fish but you will find them on a couple restaurant menus (as specials) throughout the year.

Pescada ** Hake, the cheapest quality fish, and is usually found on menus on Mondays when there is little fresh fish available. The flavor may be bland, but it’s a fishy bland, with a very fishy smell. It’s usually boiled or fried in postas, which means the fish is cut into chunks lengthwise, leaving the spinal bone exposed in the middle.

Bacalhau **/*** Salt Cod is hardly ever found fresh in Portugal, but is prevalent in its salted form everywhere. Normally it has a strong, salty flavor, but can be toned down in certain preparations. For a milder dish, try Bacalhau á Bras, my favorite!

Familiar Fish in Portugal

Salmão * Salmon, grilled in postas.

Atum */** Tuna, never grilled in Portugal, more commonly stewed in a tomato and onion sauce. If you ask for a rare tuna steak, or even a cooking temp. to begin with, people will look at you strange here!

Garoupa **Grouper, fried, grilled or used in popular dishes.

Tubarão/Cação **/***Shark/Dogfish, usually fried or grilled on skewers.

Tamboril *** Monkfish, commonly found in popular dishes, Arroz de Tamboril (Monkfish stewed rice) Caldeirada de Peixe and Cataplana de Tamboril (kind of like the Portuguese fish stew equivilant to a bouillabaisse)

Cherne *** Large Grouper, also commonly found in popular dishes, Arroz de Cherne; Caldeirada de Peixe and Cataplana de Cherne

This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.

Lisbon Day Trip: Sesimbra / Azeitão

About Andrea Smith

Andrea moved to Campo de Ourique, Lisbon, in early 2008 with a dream to work and learn more about Portuguese wine. Born in Northern Virginia in 1983, Andrea's Italian family taught her the importance of pairing fresh food with great wine, eventually motivating her to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where she earned an Associates and Bachelor's degree in Culinary Arts and Business Management, as well as her Introductory Certificate from the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2004. Andrea uses her love of culture, gastronomy and language to research the hidden recipes and wines of Portugal.

Facebook Reviews

What an amazing trip with a fantastic group of people. It was an education about wine we couldn't have experienced anywhere else. Our guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgable and brought great enthusiasm to the experience.

Fantastic tour of the Portugal wine country organized and conducted by the Catavino team. Echoing the comments of the previous reviews below, my wife and I experienced one memorable experience topped each day by the next memorable experience. A week of friendship, learning and interacting all in an environment that was stimulating and stress free. Kudos to Catavino for a wonderful and supremely well organized trip.

Having recently completed Catavino's 2017 Custom Harvest Tour, I am still basking in the afterglow of a full week of cushy hotels, beautiful landscapes, long, succulent dinners highlighting the depth of Portuguese cuisine, and, of course, the spectacular wines from the best regions of Portugal. Catavino has crafted a harvest experience that uniquely capitalizes on Ryan's personal relationships with some of Portugal's preeminent winemakers. This allows us into their cellars for intimate tastings and onto their terraces for wonderful lunches personally hosted by the owners and winemakers. It is a wonderful learning experience for novices and wine geeks alike. Ryan is a great host, and his knowledge and insights add immensely to the experience. This was my second Harvest Tour with Catavino and they continue to deliver a very satisfying week of Portuguese culture, food and wine. A short review can't do justice to a week long trip. I highly recommend that you sign on to one of their trips and find out for yourself!

Our Fall Harvest trip through the Douro valley led by Ryan Opaz and organized by the talented team at Catavino was truly a once in a lifetime experience (well maybe twice)! This was an ongoing visual and sensory experience from start to finish with several “pinch yourself” moments along the way. Like most learning experiences I feel like I’ve retained a fraction of what I learned about the wines and cuisine or Portugal. I guess that’s a reason to do it again

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

The Catavino team is world class. A tour with them is guaranteed to be something that you won't forget.
They show you a true picture of what goes on, busting myths about the wine and port industry to show you the real side of Douro. Their level of knowledge is incredible, and we had access to wine tasting, grape stomping and meet the faces behind the wine industry. I can't even begin to describe the amazing lunch at the farm, overlooking the most spectacular views that only the Douro provides - breath taking!!
It is guaranteed to be filled with passion and love, leaving you with a yearning to come back time and time again.
Can't recommend this enough.

My husband and I had a wonderful day on a private tour with Ryan throughout the Douro Valley. He is extremely knowledgeable and helped us learn to appreciate Port. Beyond the wonderful private tasting sessions, he also brought us to a delicious lunch at a local Portuguese restaurant. Throughout the entire day, he provided us with tips and recommendations for the remainder of our journey throughout Portugal. The whole day was the highlight of our trip! We would HIGHLY recommend it!

Incredible experience in a beautiful city. Mariana was an amazing guide - we learned so much, sampled some amazing food, and had fun doing it. Two couples were with our 15- and 17-month-old boys and we never felt rushed or out of place. Highly recommend!

Ana arranged a trip for my client through Portugal. My client is a single woman traveling alone and she had the time of her life! I felt very good about having her in Catavino's hands. Thank you for introducing her to Portugal in such a wonderful manner.

I can only second the comments written here. Catavino is highly professional and will stop at nothing to give you an incredible, unforgettable time. All the biggest highlights from my recent trip to Portugal and Spain were made possible by Catavino. I know how much work goes into it- thank you so much Ryan and team. I'd trust you with my holidays any time.

We were part of the 2016 Harvest Tour and had the experience of a lifetime! The Douro Valley is breathtakingly beautiful and our guides were wonderful. Ryan and Gabriella must have called in all of their personal favors because we met and drank wine with many winemakers, a wine shop owner and tasted '72 port which Oscar Quevedo's grandfather had made. Doesn't get any more special than that! Of course, gourmet food at every meal as well. We'll be back!!

When there were hiccups in the itinerary; Catavino was nothing but gracious. They understood what our visit meant to us & offered us fantastic guides & activities. We ooh'ed & aah'ed, ate & drank almost too well (!) & we laughed for days. Deep thanks.

No enough words, even for a wordsmith like me, to say how wonderful it was spending time with Gabriella and Ryan. Our tour with Ryan as our guide to the Douro Valley was spectacular. Excellent wines, wonderful views, terrific people and a delightful lunch topped off with a lovely boat ride. Highly recommended!!

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Google Reviews

This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.