Top 10 eco escapes in Ireland

Lonely Planet had some harsh words for Ireland in its latest guide, claiming it's not as green as it once was. But Catherine Mack, author of a new book about eco escapes on the Emerald Isle, begs to differ

Ireland has shed its squeaky-green image, according to the latest Lonely Planet guide. Apparently, we rate above average in terms of our per capita carbon footprint. But it's a vision that doesn't square with my experience: if there are a few dirty side effects of the booming economy, there are also plenty of people – hoteliers, travel agents, local councils – wanting to right the balance. Here's my selection of the best green destinations, taken from my book, Ecoescape Ireland, to be published in May.

1. Orchard Acre Farm tipi holiday, County Fermanagh

Orchard Acre Farm offers all-inclusive tipi holidays. These start with a welcome food hamper full of local goodies, followed by breakfasts, packed lunches and homemade dinners, all lovingly prepared using local and organic ingredients. Hop on one of their bikes to explore the Kingfisher Cycle Route, which stretches across three counties. Or you can use the canoe to explore the many islands in Lower and Upper Lough Erne. The package also includes a tour of the area with a local guide. You can buy a weekend, mid-week or week long package and stay in the fully equipped tipi, with futon beds and a central wood-burning brazier.

2. Clare Island yoga retreat

Situated on one of the westernmost points of Ireland, overlooking Clew Bay and the Atlantic, the retreat offers yoga, accommodation and home-cooked organic vegetarian meals, using their own produce where possible. The centre is committed to sustainable living, using water from its own private spring and alternative energy as well as offering the visitor a window on the life of this wonderful small island community. If, like me, you can't count your chakras, just grab a place in one of their cottages when there are no courses on. I ended up hoping for storms, just so that the boat couldn't leave.

3. SOAK seaweed baths, Newcastle, County Down

SOAK has its own ritual in store for you. First you get hot and steamy in a wooden box, then you throw a bucketful of green slimy seaweed into a huge roll-top bath full of hot seawater (piped from the shore across the road). Then you stand under an ice cold shower and scream a lot. Then you pay £20. Your aches and pains disappear, your skin turns to silk, and you feel fit to face another day. This is weed heaven and it's legal and cheap. Most definitely the best way to revive yourself after a day's climbing in The Mourne Mountains. The seaweed is sustainably harvested on local shores, and then recycled as fertiliser on nearby farms.

4. Hagal Healing Farm, Bantry

Hosts, Janni and Fred, greet guests with herbal tea resembling a work of art. A glass jug gently infused with home grown fennel, liquorice root, cardamom and an apple. Everything here embraces nature, simple beauty and natural healing. From Fred's homemade labyrinth, the abundant herb garden, to the hot water bottles and candles placed beside your bed (not that you need a hot water bottle with the solar-powered underfloor heating). You should opt for Fred's dinner, as well as the breakfast - culinary triumphs made with the finest organic ingredients. Even better, book one of his cookery courses. Then you can stay on for one of Janni's detox weekends to recover.

5. Ecobooley, Clogheen, County Tipperary

Ten years ago, the local council had a green moment and gave Eamonn, the farmer who owns Ecobooley, some funding to rebuild his derelict cottage. He was told to keep it as "natural" as possible. He took this literally. He installed a water turbine feeding off the local mountain stream to generate electricity, a wood-burning stove using wood from the land, built furniture using spent oak, sought out natural mattresses filled with recycled clothing, used organic paints, local tweed curtains, insulated with sheep's wool and plastered with lime and hemp. If you don't mind rough and ready, rattling pipes and a kettle on the stove, this is the perfect budget eco escape. Especially for walkers and families. Sleeping five, you can stick on the slowcooker in the morning, walk straight out of the front door into the forests and foothills of the Knockmealdown Mountains, and on into the walks of The Munster Way.

6. Tir na Fiúise, Terryglass, North Tipperary

Niall Heenan, the owner of these self-catering cottages, gave his perfect definition of sustainable tourism. "It keeps us here on our farm. I hope it will be something for our children to inherit and make their own." He deserves to achieve his long-term plan, because this is Irish hospitality at its finest. The three traditional cottages have cupboards full of games, and a shed full of bikes to cycle into the nearby Terryglass village, on the banks of Lough Derg. A journalist once asked Niall: "Why do people come to Terryglass? There's nothing here." His response was - "It's for people who are in search of nothing. For them, the place is enough". Walk the bog at sunrise, and you will understand what he means.

7. The Breesy Centre, Cashelard, County Donegal

Breesy by name, breezy by nature. This community-run centre offers some of the windiest tourism packages in Ireland. From walking weekends in the Donegal hills to the Atlantic coastal walk, Breesy specialises in using local guides and experts in Donegal's natural and cultural heritage. The more active can be whisked into a frenzy of surfing, cycling and pier jumping in its all-inclusive week long package of outdoor activities, local and organic food, and early morning yoga sessions. That certainly clears the cobwebs. · B&B £20pp per night; breesycentre.com; +353 71 982 2925

8. Boho Eco Hire, Boho, County Fermanagh

Paddy Jones is a farmer, canoeist, caver, and local storyteller. It's all go for Paddy, and he doesn't let his clients sit still for a minute either. I took one of his canoes down the River Sillees in Fermanagh, where I didn't pass another human being for the three hours while I was out on the water. "I'll meet you at the third bridge after the island", he said, where I swapped canoe for bike to cycle back to base. I thought he might make me jog home for my supper, but there is no triathalon training needed here. Just a willingness to discover the ins and outs, ups and downs of Ireland's famous lakelands. The company is in the process of restoring 10 derelict cottages for self-catering in County Cavan, Leitrim and Fermanagh.

9. Whale Watch West Cork, Union Hall, West Cork

Don't get Nic Slocum going on the subject of jet skis. He will see red - hard for a man who lives for all that is green. A marine conservationist, he gave up city life to share his greatest love with the world. In his bespoke whale watching catamaran, he takes small groups of tourists into the West Cork waters. On a good day you can see baleens, minkes, fins, and humpbacks, as well as the ever faithful bottle-nosed dolphins. Nic's knowledge of marine wildlife and his passion for educating young and old is uplifting from the minute you board. His expertise has led him to draw up a code of conduct for whale watching, to encourage best practice in conservation and education in the whale watching business.

10. The Omagh Hostel, Omagh, County Tyrone

Tyrone is often left off the tourist trail for no reason. Look at the map and you will see nothing but the browns of The Sperrin Mountains and greens of Gortin Glens Forest Park. Hidden down a country lane you will also find Ireland's only green independent hostel. Run by the Fyfe family on their organic farm, this is a plain, simple place with clean, comfortable rooms. They use a biomass boiler, locally sourced green electricity, and plant over 20 trees a year. The hostel aims to be carbon neutral by the end of 2008. Hostelling as it should be, hosted by people who care so much about the world around them, you will want to stay on as one of their regular volunteers.

These are edited excerpts from Ecoescape Ireland, written by Catherine Mack, to be published by Markham Publishing in May. Ecoescape UK, written by Laura Burgess, will be published in April 2008. See ecoescape.org for details.