Farewell Altiplano through Graffiti
We´re in our last stage of the Peruvian Altiplano as we change it for the northern beaches. We would like to depart from this wonderful land with a few messages that we came across in some of the very small and isolated villages. Even here the common people express themselves and their feeling through graffiti. Those which we found interesting we photographed. One message which we saw in almost every village, even those which consisted of only 4 or 5 houses, was to combat illiteracy throughout the community. It was also interesting to see the strong support in the personal developing of women throughout the Andean region. This video is in honour of all the women of the Andes and the fight against illiteracy throughout the highlands of Peru.

As the graffiti is obviously in Spanish we have translated them for you below. They are in order as you see them in the video.

The road between Abancay to Ayacucho was quite difficult compared to previous roads we have ridden in Peru. Hundreds of corners on a combination of gravel and dirt, numerous small Andean villages all above 4,200 meters all of which had children playing in their streets. Seeing the motorcycle, all were eager to take a closer look and whilst apprehensive at first, began asking their questions inquisitively. Each village had its unique quality. Those at lower altitudes were covered in greenery and boasted a large variety of flowers which against the modest mud brick homes, projected a feeling of absolute cosiness.

Whilst we didn’t make it to Ayacucho in the day as planned, due to the road being closed in the afternoon, it gave us the perfect excuse to camp beside a beautiful river, and the temperate couldn’t have been better.

After spending almost three weeks in the Amazon Basin, we have now returned to the Altiplano(highlands), this time in Peru.

Our plan is to now make our way north but instead of taking the coastal route (which we have already ridden), we’ll stay inland on roads less travelled by tourists. Subject to roads being open and passable, our route will take us through some fantastic mountainsides before plunging once again into deep valleys, including the amazon, and then returning to the snowy peaks of the andes once more.

In the video clip below, you’ll get to see our last 3 or 4 days in the Amazon (including Brazil) and our ascent to the altiplano in Peru. Hope you enjoy.

According to one Bolivian we spoke to, Bolivian`s are a simple people but never miserable. They are neither materialistic nor over ambitious. Of course, they have the desire to improve their education, living conditions, especially that of their children’s, but not at any cost as we often do in the more developed countries.

In all of our time spent in Bolivia (including the time we have spend doing group tours here), we have never once seen misery. The type of miserary where children compete with stray dogs for food in the local rubbish dump, or where men and women beg for a few coins from every passing foreigner.

You will see children take a bath in the local river, whilst his or her mother wash the families cloths just a few meters away, or an elderly lady selling vegetables on the village sidewalk, but it is done quietly, without fuss, and always with a gentle smile.

What cannot be disputed is that Bolivia and the people who inhabit it, represent authenticity at its very best.

Not according to Gaby!! More than once whilst riding from Caranavi to Rurrenabaque (260km) Gaby was seen jumping up and down in a puddle of mud screaming F%&k Bolivia and its shit muddy roads!! I must admit, I also had a go whilst negociating my way through the 50th mud pit.

But it as all worth it in the end. We arrived to the Rurrenabaque which is a small paradise located in the Amazon jungle. Great place to relax and chill out.

Tomorrow we head into the Madidi National Park for two days (without the bike).

Closed bridges, unseasonal rains, landslides, mud trail, no trail: we had it all. The trip from Sorata to Guanay is challenging enough without throwing more obstacles in the way. In total we did 275 km which was 3 days of 8 hour riding. That`s 24 hours of riding to cover just 275km!

Rather than bore you with written detail, you will get the idea of what we experienced in the video clip below.