PARIS 
Veteran Kenzo designer Antonio Marras, known for his fanciful designs for women, made his menswear debut on Saturday, turning out a strong, masculine collection imbued with just a hint of femininity.

Hermes turned out a similarly strong, though less forward-looking show, while Emanuel Ungaro bet big with a 1950s-inspired look but came up a bit short.

Saturday was day three of Paris' four-day-long menswear display. Big-name shows still to come include British label Paul Smith, known for its dapper dandies, French house Lanvin and Dior Homme.

KENZO

Two of the label's feminine staples, flowers and embroidery, got a masculine twist as Marras used them to dress up his winter 2008-2010 collection.

Russia was the show's inspiration, and much of the line evoked Soviet soldiers' uniforms, from overcoats with subtle metalwork to leggings that recalled army-issue thermal underwear. Models marched the runway in shearling hats with ear flaps.

Marras created heavily layered looks that played with texture, volume and especially length. Often, the sleeves of dress shirts peeked several inches out from beneath wooly layers of sweaters and coats.

Pants, on the other hand, were cut short, to above the ankle.

Marras softened the military silhouette with subtle finishing usually associated with ladies' wear like beading and embroidery – without compromising the collection's masculinity. Bold, graphic embroidery dressed up a toggle overcoat, while a sprinkle of white beads along the shoulders and lapel of a blazer evoked the start of a Russian snowstorm.

Oversized flowers – one of Kenzo's signature prints – were emblazoned a chunky sweater. But because the blossoms were in the collection's subdued, smoky palette and not the women's line usual eye-popping colors, they managed to look quite manly.

"I tried to add this special touch that embroidery gives, but in a really masculine way," the Italian designer said through an interpreter. He said he was careful to "avoid the precious, vulgar side of embroidery."

HERMES

The collection of superbly constructed suits and leather coats was solid but broke little new ground for the venerable French label.

What it lacked in surprises, though, the collection by French designer Veronique Nichanian more than made up for in wearable elegance. Made in wool cashmere blends in grays, black and loden, the single and double-breasted suits were timeless.

Superstar rapper Kanye West called the collection "really dope" and said he loved the double-breasted suits worn with scarves in primary colors. "It felt like a mix between pop and luxury, which I love," he told The Associated Press.

"It's one of the few brands that I actually still have to look at the price," added West – a frequent first-row guest at many of the big-name shows this week in Paris – with an impish smile.

A nubuck crocodile trench and calfskin bomber jacket drew on the heritage of the house, which was founded in 1837 as a saddlemaker.

Leather details dressed up many of the pants, and a yellow cardigan with lambskin inserts on the chest – West's favorite piece – was one of the more original looks at the show.

EMANUEL UNGARO

The rebellious spirit of James Dean haunted the house of Ungaro.

While the financial crisis has pushed other designers – like Hermes – to seek refuge in the safety of the sober suit, Emanuel Ungaro menswear designer Franck Boclet put his money on a 1950's "Rebel Without a Cause" drag racer look. Indigo denim and tartan supplanted charcoal pinstripes as Boclet's fabric of choice for the winter 2009-2010 season.

"Who wants to be dressed for a cemetery?" Ungaro CEO Mounir Moufarrige asked The Associated Press from his front row perch. "You have to give (people) optimism and hope and light up their day – particularly in hard times like these."

The Lebanese-born businessman, who has made a specialty out of reviving semi-dormant brands, said the label would continue its strategy of banking on standout pieces.

Unfortunately, there were few such standouts at Saturday's show. The pairing of matchstick trousers with bulky, square-cut coats created top-heavy silhouette that was less appealing than some of the leaner, layered looks at labels like Kenzo.

Astrakhan rock star coats provided a touch of glamor, but a pared-down tuxedo jacket was the strongest piece in the show. In sumptuous black, with a single button, the collar-less jacket had strong, razor-cut lines that showcased Boclet's skills as a tailor.

The French designer made his name at Francesco Smalto, cutting suits with a defiant swagger.