The build looks awesome indeed!
Probably very tedious and complex to build (so, not a good idea to sell these as diy kits) but the result is really impressive. It's close to what I wanted to build for my third prototype. But I didn't even get past assembling the aluminum frame - it was too much of a pain to get everything assembled perfectly.
He used 1515 extrusions which I would personally find to be too flimsy - But that's only until the panels are mounted. Note that Misumi 1515 and 2020 rails cost pretty much the same - smaller is less common which makes 2020 the better choice for price / performance ratio:
HFS3-1515-375 is 1.61 EUR
HFS5-2020-375 is 1.71 EUR

HFS5 is more than 2.5 times as strong as HFS3.

I also use M4 screws instead of M3, because they are infinitely stronger, but not much larger. Note that I usually tighten my frame screws "quite" a lot... xD

His printhead and extruder drive are huge. Really impressive that he can still achieve high speeds. I wonder how much of a difference it can be when you have a much smaller and lighter printhead.

Making a tension system on the corexy is much eaythan the um since it has only 2 belts that tight near the hotend. The problem is the find the right amount of tension. About how to calculate that there’s no much info.

I like the basics of the design, but i also dislike some things. For example, why use no top plate like in the UM design? That would make sure that it is square and add quite a lot of rigidity. Also, i would not trust that single rail with being rigid enough with a large head like that, i would at least add a small aluminium profile.

Man I would love to buy a frame or have access to cnc stuff to make something like this. In the end there’s really very few places to just click/buy a setup like that. And nearby fablabs here in Madrid are very weak. So no option to go cnc a frame to save cash.

Or the most important missing skill for me, being able to design it.

Indeed a top part could add more stability, weight always help also.

I would be just really happy to be able to print at 100mm/s without the ugly rigging I get at 50-70 but ofc my printers frames are wood.

I have begun collecting parts for a DICE, and it will be built with high-quality parts only, so HIWIN rails etc. Recieved the water jet cut parts a few weeks ago, and i have a order with René for the water cooling parts

That one will most probably be able to print at 100mm/s without any noticeable ringing

I have begun collecting parts for a DICE, and it will be built with high-quality parts only, so HIWIN rails etc. Recieved the water jet cut parts a few weeks ago, and i have a order with René for the water cooling parts

That one will most probably be able to print at 100mm/s without any noticeable ringing

I have begun collecting parts for a DICE, and it will be built with high-quality parts only, so HIWIN rails etc. Recieved the water jet cut parts a few weeks ago, and i have a order with René for the water cooling parts

Where did you order the plates from?

All the interesting 3D-printers I have found requires plates to be cut. And I don't have tools for that, nor do I know any place where it doesn't cost a fortune to have them made.