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The sighting sounds about right to me meaning to you need to adjust the cross hairs i the opposite direction to where your point of aim is. If your sight is off 1/4 inch to the left you need to bring the barrel to the right to compensate and that's what the bore scope/site is doing. Think opposite and you'll have that tuned in a few seconds. I don't doubt that you have the correct mounting hardware BUT, it's from center bore to center scope what 2 inches so at 25'? Depending on what caliber I'd say at 25' you need to hold 2 inches high for center target. I'll just guess that you might not be able to get a zero until say about 25 yards with a 22 short. A larger bore/caliber will extend this out to possibly 100 yards.I'm going to give you a link to a bullet trajectory chart so you can sort of see what it is I'm trying to write. you may need to cut and past this in your browser window.

You backed it off too far and the alignment screw came out of the internal guide. They are usually pretty close to accurate when they are released from the factory. Make sure your mounts are in proper alignment and tight before trying to sight it in. 1 click is normally 1 inch at 100 yards.

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To raise the point of impact, turn the elevation screw counterclockwise. To shift left, turn windage screw clockwise. If you raise the horizontal cross hair you will lower the point of impact of the bullet. If you move the vertical cross hair to the right the shot placement will go to the left. Make small adjustments tap the scope with a screwdriver handle to give it a shock, not to hard to help move the cross hairs and try to bore sight first. Hope this helps Fix ya up.

To raise the point of impact, turn the elevation screw counterclockwise. To shift left, turn windage screw clockwise. If you raise the horizontal cross hair you will lower the point of impact of the bullet. If you move the vertical cross hair to the right the shot placement will go to the left. Make small adjustments tap the scope with a screwdriver handle to give it a shock, not to hard to help move the cross hairs and try to bore sight first. Hope this helps Fix ya up.

1. Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows. Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.
2. Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim. Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.
3. Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows: Open the rifle breach. Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets. The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top. Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore. On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin. On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor. Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF". Make a note of the reading.
4. Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky. Caution: Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result.
5. While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern. Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire. Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.
6. Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire. Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale. Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.
7. To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle.
WARNING: FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY
At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away. Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials. Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments.
8. Restore the stud tension by pressing the end of the spring.

To raise the point of impact, turn the elevation screw counterclockwise. To
shift left, turn windage screw clockwise. If you raise the horizontal cross hair you will lower the point of impact of the bullet. If you move the vertical cross hair to the right the shot placement will go to the left. Thats just the way it works. Point your right index finger at a spot on the wall, and sight down your finger like looking at sights, then take your left index finger and pretend it is a horizontal cross hair above your shooting finger, then raise your left finger a set amount above the right, then move your hands back to the shooting position not changing the distance in between, using your left finger now as the sight. You will see your shooting finger is now pointing lower than before. This is now the new point of impact, lower not higher. Hope this is clear as mud and helps Fix Ya up.

It's a common misconception that you are moving the bullet's impact on the target... the bullet is hitting where the rifle is pointing and you want to get the scope to look at that very same spot. To move the scope's reticle up or down, turn the elevation adjustment on the TOP of the scope in the direction you want the scope to look, so if your shooting low, turn the scope's adjustment in the DOWN direction.If you want to move the direction the scope is looking left or right, turn the windage adjustment on the RIGHT side of the scope left or right to look where the bullet is impacting. To move the crosshairs to the right, turn it right.Hope this helps, Mark the Gunsmith

You are misleading yourself. When you have a horizontal line across the screen it means that the vertical circuit is not working. You see, the vertical circuit moves the beam up and down which is not happening. The horizontal circuit moves the beam left and right and it is working. Your set probably needs a new vertical output IC and some electrolytic capacitors that work with it. The caps dry up with time and harm the output IC.

I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontalReticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

1.Insert the Bore Stud into the Stanchion while aligning the arrows as shows.Insert the assembled scope guide into the muzzle of your rifle with the grid pattern upright.

2.Select the Aperture Cap that fits your objective rim.Place it over the objective end of your rifle scope and press until it fits flatly against the rim.

3.Using the Adjustable Scale measure the top of your rifle scope tube to the center of the rifle bore as follows:Open the rifle breach.Rest the upper arm of the scale on the scope tube before or behind the windage and elevation turrets.The scale markings should be facing towards you reading vertically and ascending from bottom to top.Slide the lower end of the scale up or down until it is touching the center point of the bore.On center fire rifles the center point will be the firing pin.On rimfire models the center will be the shell extractor.Read the number that corresponds to the indicator marked "CF".Make a note of the reading.

4.Aim the rifle toward a light, flatly lit area such as a wall or open sky.Caution:Do Not Look At The Sun As Permanent Eye Injury Could Result.

5.While keeping the riflescope at the right distance to see the full field of view, sight through it on the grid pattern.Move the stanchion right or left until the bold centerline is parallel to the vertical reticule wire.Turn the windage dial right or left until the vertical reticule is aligned with the grid centerline.

6.Use the reading from the scale to align the horizontal reticule wire.Find the numbered horizontal grid line that corresponds to the number on the scale.Turn the elevation dial right or left until the horizontal reticule wire aligns with this corresponding grid line.

7.To make your final zeroing adjustments remove the scope guide from the bore of your rifle.

WARNING:FIREING YOUR RIFLE WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCOPE GUIDE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR RIFLE AND OR CAUSE YOU INJURY

At a range or other safe area test fire a group of three rounds of the same type ammunition at a target at least 50 yards away.Refine your scope alignment by adjusting the windage and elevation dials.Move to your desired distance from the target and test fire another group and make your final windage and elevation adjustments.

your scope has spun in the scope rings. Loosen the screws holding the scope to the rifle and turn scope until crosshairs are into position. Then tighten screws. You will need to sight in again. If it keeps moving replace scope rings.

Probably the red convergence output IC has failed. The chip is basically a stereo amplifier that serves as a horizontal amplifier and a vertical amplifier. I suspect the vertical part has failed and is not uncommon. Should be generic STK392-150's or maybe STK392-110/120 I believe. By the way when the line moves up and down that means the vertical is working when it moves side to side the horizontal is working.