Heirloom tomatoes in May?

OK, so they're not local, but it's nice to see heirlooms popping back up on menus, even if they are from greenhouses in Canada. Stefan Ondrus, who has taken over as executive chef of Pier 115 Bar & Grill in Edgewater, just added a $13 heirloom tomato salad, which includes frisee, basil, buffalo mozzarella, basil oil and chives; he plans to switch to Jersey tomatoes when they're available this summer. 115 River Road, 201-313-2155, pier115barand grill.com.