Food. Not usually recipes.

Mojama mia

The pun in the title only works, of course, if you know to pronounce it the Spanish way, moh-ha-mah. It is dried tuna and the most delicious stuff in the world. I was in Madrid for a few days last year and virtually lived on it,croquettes de jamon and ice-cold albariño. I wasn’t unhappy about this. There’s a jamoneria in the centre of town called Stop! Madrid (click on the link for directions) that I love that mostly sells, as you’d expect, jamon. You can also have a large plate of mojama and soak up the atmosphere. It is a dark and friendly bar with murderously uncomfortable seats and worth going to Madrid for.

I guess you know mojama is fish and not meat when you’re eating it, but it isn’t fishy, as such. It is moreish, I’ll say that. Sliced thinly, with a few drops of peppery olive oil, some salty, smoked almonds and an icy glass of manzanilla, it is unbeatable at 6.30, watching the sun set, while you’re thinking about dinner.

The only place I know of that sells it in London is Brindisa, but you may find it at Selfridges. I never go to Harrods but they may stock it, too.