Russia's historic Red Square

The Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed, commonly known as St Basil’s Cathedral, is a spectacle of colours, patterns, shapes and onion domes of the style unique to Russian architecture. It was built over 450 years ago.

Catriona Rowntree joined a Scenic Jewels of Russia journey – a destination she had long wanted to visit.

She boarded Scenic Tsar which was launched in 2013. It was the first ‘new-build’ ship on Russia’s waterways for over 25 years. Accommodating just over one hundred guests, Scenic Tsar is spacious, intimate and luxurious.

Delicious food is just one highlight of a Scenic tour. From the first coffee of the day to a relaxing nightcap and everything in between guests are spoilt for choices. Chefs are inspired by regions you travel through, and there are superb wines to accompany your meals, all included in the price of your cruise.

Sir Winston Churchill’s words possibly summed up this great country most appropriately. “Russia is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma”.

The vast country occupies almost one eighth of the earth’s land mass and is crammed with history. Moscow is the country’s beating heart and was the appropriate place to join Scenic Tsar, cruising to St Petersburg with stops at the little towns of Uglich, Goritsy and Mandrogi along the way.

A tour of Moscow must begin in its social and political centre – Red Square. Scenic’s Moscow guide explained a long time tradition visitors take part in when entering Red Square. You take a coin in the right hand and throw it over your left shoulder. It’s said to ensure you will return.

Red Square separated the Kremlin, the former royal citadel and now official residence of the President, from the historic merchant quarter, Kitai-gorod. Despite being just 300 metres by 70 metres, Red Square’s significance far exceeds its size.

It was established in the 15th century under the rule of Ivan III and was then known as Trinity Square. Despite general opinion, it is not named for the blood of revolutionaries – rather from the word 'krasnyi' which once meant ‘beautiful’.

Even when it was a market square and shanty town, it was where occupants of the Kremlin chose to congregate, celebrate and castigate for all to see. The medieval walled city is where Moscow began life, rising above the Moskva River which runs for around 500 kilometres through Russia.

At the southern end of Red Square is one of Russia’s most recognisable icons. The Cathedral of Vasily the Blessed, commonly known as St Basil’s Cathedral, is a spectacle of colours, patterns, shapes and onion domes of the style unique to Russian architecture. It was built over 450 years ago.

Ivan the Terrible captured the Tatar stronghold of Kazan on the Feast of Intercession and commissioned the landmark church to commemorate the victory.

It’s history is as colourful as the cathedral itself. It has been burnt, looted and it’s said that Ivan had the eyes of its builders removed so there would never be another building to emulate his pride and joy.

Napoleon was so obsessed with the cathedral he wanted to take it to France but lacked the technology to do so. If he couldn’t have it, no one could so he decided to bomb and burn it. As the fuse was lit, rain poured down and extinguished it, so Napoleon’s jealous desires failed.

Red Square is home to Lenin’s Tomb. His preserved body has been on public display since his death in 1924, except during wartime. The granite structure incorporates elements from ancient mausoleums such as the Step Pyramid and the Tomb of Cyrus the Great.

Under communism, the square became a cemetery. Immediately after the Bolsheviks took control of Moscow in 1917, two identical tombs were built beneath the Kremlin walls to hold the remains of 240 casualties of the October Revolution. The Bolshevik government closed it to the public in the 1920s and it was re-opened in 1955 as one of the world’s greatest museums.

The Kremlin is the ultimate symbol of the Russian state and has been home to some of the world’s most infamous leaders. It remains the seat of government and is where Vladimir Putin works. Tsars lived there with family and members of the court.

Cathedral Square is the central square of the Moscow Kremlin and where all streets converged in the 15th century. Three cathedrals of Italian design face it - Cathedral of the Dormition, Cathedral of the Archangel, and Cathedral of the Annunciation. The Palace of Facets, the Church of the Deposition of the Robe and the Church of the Twelve Apostles are also there. The tallest structure is Ivan theGreat Bell Tower which separates Sobornaya Square from Ivanovskaya Square.

The square is famous as the site of solemn coronation and funeral processions of all Russian tsars, patriarchs and Grand Dukes of Moscow. Today it is used in the inauguration ceremony of the President of Russia.

There is the daily changing of the Horse Guards, an imperial tradition restored in the 21st century, and occasionally operas are performed in the majestic setting.

For all its history and bloodshed, Russia, and particularly Moscow, has a growing upper class and GUM Shopping Mall on the eastern side of Red Square is where they choose to shop. Once the State Shopping Mall where people would queue for hours for imports, now it’s all designer labels and expensive. Its palace-like exterior and elegant interiors make GUM as much a tourist attraction as a shopping centre.

The Upper Trading Rows were built between 1890 and 1893 and the trapezoidal building features a combination of Russian medieval architecture. Its glass roof was unique at the time of construction. The façade is divided into several horizontal tiers lined with red Finnish granite, Tarusa marble and limestone.

It’s not unusual for those visiting Russia for the first time to be advised by many people to travel on the subway system. Catriona was no exception and what an eye-opener that turned out to be. She described the stations as “the underground palaces of Russia”.

Stalin was responsible for everything to do with the railway and with a reputation of being a rather modest man, the result was surprising to most Russians. 44 of almost 200 stations are listed as cultural heritage sites. There are chandeliers, works of art and each station is different. At least 20 kinds of marble have been used. 7 million people use the transport every rush hour and they are treated with efficient, safe and clean trains.

Scenic gave the chance to experience life as a true Muscovite at the very grand Boris Godunóv Restaurant. It’s in Teatralnaya Square in front of the Bolshoy Theatre. The building was one part of the Zaikonospasskiy Monastery in the time of Boris Godunóv. He was a ruler who reigned as Tsar between 1598 and 1605.

Modest Petrovich Mussorgsky wrote an opera around Godunóv and his nemesis, the False Dmitriy. The libretto written by Mussorgsky was based on the drama ‘Boris Godunóv’ by Aleksandr Pushkin.

The halls of the restaurant are former refectory chambers of the 17th century featuring painted vaults. There are oak tables and heavy chairs with high carved backs, ornaments and frescoes. It is incredibly popular among lovers of old Russian cuisine and each evening guests are entertained by Russian folk songs, dances and gypsy performances.

Of course you can opt out of any of the tours offered by Scenic, but they really do offer something special not seen by many tourists.

A case in point when is when Catriona wasn’t all that fussed about taking a tour of the Memorial Museum of Cosmonautics but was so glad she decided to go.

Outside is a soaring 100 metre monument dedicated to the conquerors of space and below ground is an inspiring collection of memorabilia. It’s a nostalgic journey through the early days of space travel and meeting a real life cosmonaut was quite an experience.

Aleksandr Laveykin was on a waiting list for nine years, followed by two years of training before flying to the Space Station Mir in 1987. The aerospace engineer’s dream of being part of a space mission still brings him happy nostalgia and he highly recommends the profession to children he speaks with.

Location

The highlights of Russia with Scenic.

Cost

Join Scenic on an all-inclusive luxury 15 day Jewels of Russia River Cruise between Moscow and St Petersburg.

Prices start at $10,045 per person twin share including all activities, events and meals. Book now and fly for free.