Put the pin that holds the float in place in its pilot hole,just enough to have it there when you get the other parts in place.The float goes in with the flat side toward the bottom of the fuel bowl, with the float needle on top of the float hook the spring on the needle around the small metal clip on the float.(it will flop around freely) guide the fuel needle up into the hole where it seats.(be patient) once it goes up in there push the lock pin in through the float clip until it is even on both sides. liift and lower the float a few times to make sure the fuel needle is free.(fuel will not run through the fuel lines untill the vacuum tube at the gas cut off has a vacuum on it) run a small amount of fuel through the line and raise the float to make sure it will stop the fuel.If this works you can put the bowl back on,make sure the O ring and gaskets are in place. Clean up any fuel spilled before u start the engine.

On your 79 model, this would be a Bendix type carb if I'm not mistaken. To describe this to you is next to impossible, a picture is worth a thousand words in this case. Please send me an e-mail at wd4ity@bellsouth.net and I will send a picture of how the spring is supposed to be. Steve

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Related Questions:

talking carby
the needle is the bit with a rubber insert at the pointy end
the other end has a hollow drilled in it
into this end a spring will go then a small plunger with a weal spring attached to the end
put the assembled needle into the body and place the bent section of the spring on the needle over the tang of the float arm ( small bit bent down and back on the float arm
position the float arm and push the pivot pin through the bady and the float arm ends and to the other side of the body
the action of the float as the fuel vibrates is absorber by the weak spring holding the needle plunger to the float
If you cannot under stand this then get any book with a carby
section and you will see from the diagram how to put it together
90% of carbys will have the same set up so the manual doesn't have to be specific for your job.

Hi v0lten...
Yes the problem with the mower not running is the little spring you talked about is missing from under the float arm of the carburetor. It is necessary for the mower to run right.
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The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.Your carburetor should be working properly to run now as long as you do not have other problems in the fuel system or electrical problems.
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your float settings inside your carb are set wrong read my advice to resetting them and you should be ok
You'll need to first start off by removing your carb. Be sure to clean the surrounding area to the best of your ability to avoid dirt and debris falling into your carb; or worse, your engine. After you've removed your carb I would suggest a thorough cleaning using carb cleaner (or equivalent) and compressed air to ensure that all jets and passageways are spotless. Avoid using wire or other tools to clean orifices of jets; it's all too easy to alter their original designed dimensions.

After your carb is clean you can now set your float level. The picture below will allow you to become familiar with the parts that are responsible for maintaining the correct float level in your carb. There are four basic parts, the floats themselves (part of the float assembly), the float assembly tang, the fuel inlet needle valve, and the fuel inlet valve seat.

(Float assembly pivot pin not shown.)

It is always a good idea to remove the float assembly pivot pin (already shown removed) and extract the float assembly and the fuel inlet needle. The fuel inlet needle is a wearable part and over time can deteriorate. A worn fuel inlet needle can contribute to an irregular float level. Most fuel inlet needles consist of an internal spring loaded bumper (which contacts the float assembly tang) and a plastic or Viton (rubber) tip. Inspect the fuel inlet needle tip for wear and/or damage. To give you an idea, Eric Gorr recommends replacing the fuel inlet needle/seat assembly every two years. I've found that the average cost is around $15 for both parts.

(Fuel inlet needle shown with Viton (rubber) tip. The Viton is used to isolate the fuel inlet needle from vibration and to create a better seal against the fuel inlet valve seat.)

Now that you've made sure you aren't going to have any issues from worn parts you can reinstall your needle, float assembly and float assembly pivot pin and continue on to set your float level. The float level measurement is taken from the top of the floats (when the carb is positioned upside down) to the gasket surface of the float bowl as illustrated in the next picture. You can use an open-end wrench (sized per your spec), a small metric ruler, or a float level gauge. The tolerance for your float level is usually around +/- 0.50mm.

When setting the float level be aware that the spring loaded bumper on the fuel inlet needle valve may have a tendency to compress under the weight of the float assembly which will skew your measurement. Before you obtain your measurement you'll need to make sure that the float assembly tang just barely makes contact with the spring-loaded bumper. Sometimes it is easier to hold the carb body at a 45-degree angle to avoid compressing the spring in the fuel inlet needle.

If you find that your measurement does not match your float level spec then you can carefully bend the float assembly tang to achieve your desired measurement. Be sure to recheck your work, and if you feel confident that your float level is spot on then you can reinstall your carb and get back to riding.

The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.Your carburetor should be working properly to run now as long as you do not have other problems in the fuel system or electrical problems.
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is the float needle. could be dirty the float itself can be adjusted to push up the needle. the piece with the screw is for gas adjustment. take the bowl, needle out and clean with carb. cleaner careful not to wet the bowl rubber gasket(carb. cleaner will expand gasket). put all parts back and retest. if it leaks again take apart and look where the needle goes to the float and slightly bend the little stick to push the needle upwards. reasemble and test again.

It does not fasten firmly to the float. It has a squared wire section on the back end that fits right over the metal tang on the float. The tang moves up and down with the float , pushing the needle valve allowing or blocking fuel flow as bowl height varies.

The floats dont often change their setting, so are usually left alone. The float needle has a neoprene tip, that isnt going to wear into the seat, and a spring tip on the other end, so they dont change.

Usually if the bike floods, the carb needs cleaning, occasionally you need to buy a new needle and seat.
The floats and needle cannot wear and create a lean mixture.
Sorry if I didnt answer the question "how to set the float"

no spring poss small wire from needle to float! the way it works is float is up needle close because float bowl full--when fluid or gas goes down valve opens lets fluel in.ck full pump disconnect line at carb crank over with guage should have apprx 7psi of press not less then 5psi carefull gas flameable

1.Remove the Float Bowl, (Turn gas off first), and clean the crud out of the bowl. (Bottom of the carburetor)There is a brass nut in the middle of the float bowl, which is on the bottom of the carburetor.There is a fiber, or brass washer on that bolt. DON'T lose it! (Turn it to the left)The brass bolt, (Main Jet Plug), goes through the float bowl, and into the Main Jet.

Remove the float, (Carefully! If it's a plastic designed float, Don't nick it with your fingernail/s. Also make sure it isn't soaking up gas. If so, {You'll know!}, replace it)

A.DON'T let the float needle valve fall out, when you remove the float! The Float Needle is attached to the float, with a small 'hair spring' clip.

B.DON'T lose the tiny, 'hair spring' clip, that attaches the float needle to the float. Observe VERY carefully how this tiny spring clip goes on the float, ->Before you remove the float pin. (The float rotates up, and down, on this long round pin) It has to be put back the same exact way)

Handle the float with extreme care. It is set to a certain height. The measurement goes from the bottom of the carburetor body, (Where the side of the float bowl touches), to the top edge of the float.

The top of the Float Needle has a groove cut around it. That 'Hair Spring' clip I described above, clips in this groove. The other end of this 'Hair Clip', goes around a flat area that extends out of the side of the float.Once you get the float bowl down a bit, you'll see what I'm referring to above.

C.The Float Needle Valve is made of metal, and has a Neoprene, (Like rubber), tip on the end. The Neoprene tip is cone shaped. A light little ring mark on the Neoprene tip is okay.If the tip is broken, or mushed out, the Float Needle Valve is no good.

More than likely you just have crud in the float bowl, and it is also down in the Float Needle Valve Seat. (The Float Needle Seat is a brass cylindrical shaped piece. It has a tapered hole inside, down at the bottom. Fuel, {Gas} comes through this tapered hole, and the Float Needle Valve regulates how much. The float raises, which raises the float needle valve. Fuel comes through the tapered hole. The float drops, which lowers the float needle valve, and stops fuel from coming through the tapered hole, and into the float bowl)

After time, the bottom of your gas tank develops rust, from moisture in the gasoline.Dirt also finds it's way into a bike's gas tank. Also the additives in gasoline accumulate after a while.

If you do not have an inline fuel filter, I advise you buy, and install one. This way you change the fuel filter element, and do not have to tear the carb/s down again.

remove fuel line from petcock and see if fuel runs out, if not remove petcock from tank and clean filter screen, if it does come out, check for inline fuel filter change it, if it dont have one check fuel pump if it has one, or could be diaphrams in carb split and not building vaccuum to draw gas thru