Front Shock Replacement

Folks
I've heard it before, but now have firsthand experience: the "Shop Manual" is a lying'n crock. What looks to be a dead simple job to replace front shocks turns out to a whole different experience. First, removal requires serious brute force to dislodge the lower end. That, and the "Reverse 1-12" actually requires opening the suspension halves. The only hint of that is their instruction to support the rear half of the suspension. I guess the "loosen all clamp bolts and torsion bar front nut and separate the suspension halves" is silent, because that's what 's required. Lacking the horsepower to loosen the torsion bar nut, I was able to (gently) drive a cold chisel between the halves just far enough to separate the halves about .1", enough to winkle in the new shock bushing. BTW, the original distance across that opening was exactly the same as the length of the distance pieces, hence the requirement for brute force in removal. No doubt I am not the first to get this T-shirt.
Cheers, Roger

Noble 66
:0
Don't worry about those bushes.
The job is a pig but take it slow and ask on here as you go.

I have a press which helps me. But you can use a vice and sockets etc or make up a tool with running thread and sockets. you will see this on you tube videos and by looking at the way the special BMC tool works.

some general thoughts
-Only do one side at a time. use lots of penetrating oil a few week before.
-Think about doing all bushes on one side not just the worst ones.
-expect it to take say 4 weekends so you can admire the nice clean metal as you paint the parts before reassembly.
-expect to have to cut out the odd bush if you don't have access to a press (actually taking the bits to your local helpful garage to use theirs is a great idea).
- Don't enter the dark world of the kingpins unless they are obviously stuffed. you will find that coming back to do them after you have had it all apart will not be the big mission the bushes were.
-use aluminium or copper anti seize on reassembly of bolts etc - on the threads and shafts.
Invite someone over to help?

The area is actually very simple and the job should be easy enough. What happens is some of the bushes have steel sleeves and tend to weld themselves into the respective positions.
When you start with that awareness you are half way there .

As far are the step by steps the workshop manual is not too bad but the advice on here in previous posts is valuable. a beer at the end of every session helps

Roger,
The split collar should be freed off which usually means removal of the front arm altogether so the collar can be pressed out, cleaned up and greased on refitting. This locks the bottom pin when you do the bolt up.
Any help needed on the front suspension just ask and I have plenty of pictures if needed.
Simon.

MGC & B racing, incorporating MGCspares from a good used or rare part to remanufactured items to keep your C as you would like it. NEW Alloy items have arrived UK made see website. MGC and early/late B alloy radiators from stock
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Roger, you do not have to remove the front half of the lower control arm completely, just loosen all 5 of the nuts and separate the halves. Take a hammer to the bottom of lower shock mount and it will pop up and out. When fitting the new shock, fit the top first. If the new bushing is a bit wide to fit in the space available just lube it up and use a jack below the lower trunion to lift the lower arm up to align the bolt hole within the lower shock bushing.

When I rebuilt my front suspension I installed the shocks last and this is the process I used. It worked great.

MGC & B racing, incorporating MGCspares from a good used or rare part to remanufactured items to keep your C as you would like it. NEW Alloy items have arrived UK made see website. MGC and early/late B alloy radiators from stock
www.holmesracing.co

Folks
Thanks to all for the sage advice. Once I had some separation of the halves, all went well. Shame is, I didn't know to separate BEFORE removal. One final note: the provider of the Moss shocks can get over-zealous with the paint gun: the threads on one of mine were so thoroughly paint jammed that, in spite of vigorous wire-brushing, the nut reached refusal a full 1/4" early. Ended up cleaning the threads with a dental pick and wire brush (I don't have a die set).
I guess the project for the coming winter will be full bushing R & R. Can hardly wait.
Cheers
Roger

Roger
A good tap and die set is worth acquiring. Glad your shocks are done.
I am doing kingpins right now and the top trunion nut can be a real bear to get off after what looks to be about 50 years of nice and tight.
The rest of the suspension bushes come out pretty easy with some all thread, large sockets, a few washers and nuts for the all thread.
If you happen to have real rusty suspension bits then all bets are off.
Ron