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Description

A very fun route the is often overlooked.... The New England Ice Guide doesn't even give it a description let alone a proper name....

The grade is not consistent at all, some days it is grade 3 others it feel much harder with delicate mixed climbing involved....

The far left gully, start on easy terrain heading up the gully and around the big pillar/icicle. If it's a pillar, it shouldn't be too hard. If it's still just touching down, climb on rock to get around it and on to the upper part of the icicle to the top....

Last winter, I led "Apocalypse Left," and I can confidently say that it was my most harrowing and fightening lead of my life. Maybe it was the lack of ice in the gully. Maybe it was the 50 degree temps. Maybe I'm just weak, but I really think I came close to buying it on the melted-out topout.
Jan 31, 2007

Nice story, Jay...haha...I think the route is always awkward, but when it's melting, too...bad news...I had no idea what to grade it.... It might do better with a mixed grade...we should take a vote.... Whoever reads this post a proposed grade...if you've done it.... If not.... Go do it, it's fun....
Feb 9, 2007

What a fun climb! Gorgeous plastic ice went all the way up the back and right of the gully until the top where it switched to a 8 foot curtain on the left. From other people's descriptions, I must have gotten some pretty fat conditions. Definitely no harder than 3+.
Jan 19, 2009

I led this since parallel was taken. I peaked around the corner to see what the ice was like before I climbed and didn't see much besides a dark narrowing chasm. I'd never see the route before and since my partner said it was good I figured it would pass the time. After running up the initial grade 2 slab and clipping the glue-in bolt I immediately perked up and decided that it was going to be an awesome climb. The grade 4 curtain was touching down so there was a path right beneath it to access the mixed exit. These were slim conditions. high quality ice in the 6 inch wide corner, verglas patches on the right wall and a chossy hand crack leading to turf, up and out left. Serious groveling "technique" require to overcome the cruxy squeezing exit. Pine needles and ice brows clued me in on the ok hooking features on the right wall. Hardest lead in winter for me so far. Bring a light selection of cams in the hand sizes and the usually 16cm 13 cm screws with some stubbies. I used a 10cm as my last ice gear in some clear ice, bomber. I would say in those conditions the ice grade was a NEI3 with a mixed/turf grade of M4 (since it isn't very hard mixed climbing but it is very awkward). GREAT positioning, great rests and a climb with just the right amount of protection to keep your head. Three stars! only down side is that it wasn't longer!
Feb 1, 2015