I did manage to get the fenders, grill and radiator off today. Also labeled and unhooked all wires, hoses, and linkages between engine and tub. Got all but 2 of the tub bolts out. 2 snapped up inside. Gas filler neck, exhaust hanger, E brake, and transfer boot unhooked. From what I can tell, I should be ready to pick the tub off tomorrow.

Managed to get the tub lifted off. I did miss the 2 bolts in front of the gas tank on the first attempt.

Next on the YJ will be pulling out the motor/tranny.

I did get the Transmission/Transfer Case and Engine out today.

The engines new home for a while.

I sprayed down all the suspension bolts down with Knocker Loose spray, and will let sit overnight like that. Going to start with dropping them off the frame tomorrow.

Had a good day in the garage today, except for just about every bolt I put a wrench on was froze tight!!:rantscream::rantscream:
Ended up cutting quite a few with the cut wheel. So I will have to drill out and fix some of those that are in the frame.

Well we are down to the bare bones now!!

OK here it goes, My planned....To Do and Grocery list to make it possible.

I did my frame with POR15. Came out great.
It NEEDS rust to work, or it wont bond.
I wire brushed, scraped, and lightly sanded with 80grit, wiped it all down with acetone, used POR's Metal Ready Spray, and brushed it on. Used about one pint.
POR15 is not UV stable, so it will need a top coat.
I went with Rustoleum HD Enamel spray. Looks great.
Seems to be holding up well.

Soooo. Let me get this straight. POR 15 is for treating RUST. Not a rust preventive measure. If this is correct you just saved me some money. I have a rust free frame what would be a good rust preventer

Actually, rusty metals is the preferred surface, but you CAN apply it to bare, sandblasted or other clean metal finishes as long as they are free of contamination/ grease / oil......and also, you should use the 'Metal Ready' etching on the clean metal to promote / enhance adhesion......

I used marine clean, metal ready, por 15 and their black UV topcoat on the axles on a past jeep and they held up great for several years until I sold it....

I would stay away from the griffen aluminum radiator. I just put in a new motor in my 89. The motor is slightly modifyed. 4.2 wth HO 4.0 head MPI fuel injection and stainless headers. I had an after market aluminum radiator and electric fan. With the electric fan we could not move enough air to cool the engine it would heat up to 220 or above. Went to bone stock radiator shroud and fan. It runs around 190 or below all of the time even when crawling.

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The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not

Actually, rusty metals is the preferred surface, but you CAN apply it to bare, sandblasted or other clean metal finishes as long as they are free of contamination/ grease / oil......and also, you should use the 'Metal Ready' etching on the clean metal to promote / enhance adhesion......

I used marine clean, metal ready, por 15 and their black UV topcoat on the axles on a past jeep and they held up great for several years until I sold it....

Sounds good. I think I will wire wheel and flap disc sand the frame as clean as I can and then use the Metal Ready or what ever Pre App my local parts dealer that carries the POR 15 and then the UV top coat.

I would stay away from the griffen aluminum radiator. I just put in a new motor in my 89. The motor is slightly modifyed. 4.2 wth HO 4.0 head MPI fuel injection and stainless headers. I had an after market aluminum radiator and electric fan. With the electric fan we could not move enough air to cool the engine it would heat up to 220 or above. Went to bone stock radiator shroud and fan. It runs around 190 or below all of the time even when crawling.

I was going to stick with the clutch fan, but I would think that aluminium would transfer heat better than the stock rad???????

I understand that you have proven numbers there, but sounds like the fan was the main issue.

I enjoy doing this fab work, and thinking I would like to learn more and try some major DIY mods in the future. Everything I had planned to do was mostly bolt on accessories, and spendy ones at that.

I think I have talked myself into getting a JD tubing Bender and Notcher, and fabrication all my stuff myself. Also going off the deep end and fabricating up a full blown coil-over linked suspension..............Bam!