A sizeable portion of Coloradans with
disabilities depend on the use of a wheelchair for their mobility.

Accessibility describes a site, building,
facility or portion thereof that can be approached, entered and used by
physically disabled people.

Adaptability describes the flexibility
of certain building elements to be modified to accommodate the needs of
people with different types or degrees of disabilities.

A properly constructed ramp is essential
for the use of a building by anyone in a wheelchair.

When designed correctly, an accessible
kitchen can be easily used by everyone in the household.

Introduction

Various estimates place the number
of Americans with disabilities between 20 million and 50 million people
(35 or 36 million is most commonly quoted.) A precise and reliable overall
figure is not currently available, due to differing operational definitions
of disability, divergent sources of data, and inconsistent survey methodologies,
which together make it impossible to aggregate much of the available data.2

In 1983, one source estimated there
to be 250,000 disabled Coloradans. Even if the numbers are not precise,
there exists a sizable portion of the population with disabilities, many
of whom depend on the use of a wheelchair for their mobility.

The information contained in this
fact sheet is for individuals using wheelchairs, their family members and/or
friends. The suggestions presented are simple, inexpensive, and suitable
for renters as well as homeowners. The American National Standard Institute,
a recommended publication, is the basis for the majority of the physical
dimensions cited (ANSI A117, 1-1986).

For the person interested in architecture
or design for disabled people and who is using the ANSI standards, it is
helpful to understand the difference between accessibility and adaptability.
ANSI A117.1-1986 describes accessibility as a site, building, facility
or portion thereof that can be approached, entered and used by physically
disabled people and adaptability as the flexibility of certain building
elements (such as kitchen counters, sinks and grab bars) to be modified
to accommodate th needs of persons with different types or degrees of disability.

Wheelchair Maneuvering Space

The average dimensions of a standard
adult manual wheelchair (occupied) are (Figure 1):

length--46 to 50 inches including allowance
for projection of feet to overhang;

width--23 to 32 inches allowing for
hands and elbows;

seat depth--16 inches;

seat height--19-20 inches; and

arm height--29-30 inches from floor.

The sports wheelchair, which has cambered
wheels and a lower seat is wider and the overhead reach not as high as
the standard model.

The average distance needed for an
adult in a wheelchair to make a complete circle is 60 inches of clear floor
space. Minimum clear width for a wheelchair is 36 inches for a hall and
32 inches for a door. Minimum clear space for a T-shaped turn of 180 degrees
is 36 inches in all directions. The minimum passage width for one wheelchair
and one ambulatory person is 48 inches.

The average reaching distance of
a seated adult: side reach maximum height overhead is 54 inches and the
low side reach is 9 inches above the floor (Figure 2). This does not include
reaching over an obstacle such as a counter. The maximum forward reach
is 48 inches above the floor, also not over an obstacle.

Ramps

A properly constructed ramp is essential
for the use of a building by anyone in a wheelchair. A ramp can replace
stairs or be part of an accessible route to a building's entrance. An accessible
route is the shortest possible path from a handicapped parking space to
an accessible entrance. There should be at least one accessible route from
a public street, sidewalk or parking space, to an accessible entrance,
as well as from adjacent buildings.

Ramps are required as part of an
accessible route anytime there is an elevation in the grade of the land
that wheelchairs must maneuver. The maximum slope of any ramp is 1-12--this
ratio means that for every inch of height in grade change, 12 inches of
ramp length is required (Figure 3). The ramp length (or run) should not
exceed 30 feet without landings, nor should the ramp rise more than 30
inches. The minimum width of a ramp is 36 inches. Because of inclement
weather (snow, ice, wind, etc., some states have developed a second standard
for exterior ramps and walk-ways; 1-12 remains the standard for interior
ramps and 1-20 is the ratio for exterior ramps.

Landings are required at both the
top and bottom of a ramp and should be at least as wide as the ramp (36
inches). Landings should have a 60-inch minimum length of clear space at
both the top and bottom.

If a ramp longer than 6 feet will
be used by ambulatory people as well, a handrail is needed on both sides
of the ramp. The handrails should extend 12 inches beyond the top and bottom
of the ramp and should have a clear space of 1-1/2 inches between the handrail
and the wall. There should be a distance of 30-34 inches from the floor
of the ramp to the top of the handrail. Children will require a lower handrail.

The two most common materials used
for ramp construction are wood and concrete. Wood is easier and faster
to construct, relatively inexpensive, and can last for years.

All ramps and landings need a nonskid
surface and should be designed so water will not accumulate. To do this
for concrete ramps the surface must be textured. There are several ways
to make wooden ramps nonskid: pebble-grained paper or sand mixed with paint.
In Colorado, it may be a good idea to keep snow melt handy to use on ramps
and landings during inclement weather.

Every ramp must be custom built to
conform to the specific site. Chapter 3 of How To Create Interiors for
the Disabled6 provides detailed directions on ramp building.

A clearance of 18 inches on the latch
side of the door allows for an easier and safer opening. A shelf attached
to the exterior or interior wall of the structure and adjacent to the door,
permits a wheelchair user to put packages down while unlocking and opening
the door.

Kitchens

There is more information available
on modifying a kitchen than any other part of a home. When designed correctly,
an accessible kitchen can be used easily by everyone in the household.
The information here is general in nature. For more specific information,
refer to the sources listed in the references.

Cabinets and countertops

The recommended minimum clearance
between opposing cabinet fronts, countertop edges or walls is 40 inches
except for a U-shaped kitchen, which is 60 inches.

If the doors of the base cabinets
can be removed and the base of the cabinet can be cut out in front of the
sink, the person who is seated in a wheelchair can roll up to the sink
rather than approaching it parallel and twisting sideways in the wheelchair.

If sink cabinet doors are removed,
insulating the hot water pipes will prevent leg burns. A 36-inch long spray
hose at the sink allows for rinsing dishes and filling pans.

A functional food preparation area
is essential. This can be achieved by removing additional cabinet doors
and other parts of the base cabinets, allowing the person a front approach
to a counter and a work area in front. A pull-out cutting board also is
very useful. A hole can be cut in the board to hold a mixing bowl. A small
dining or breakfast table in the kitchen can serve as a work center or
for other activities requiring a solid work surface. If the kitchen is
small, a fold-down table, h nged to the wall may provide additional work
space.

If you own or are buying a home,
consider having a section of the base cabinets made adaptable. This can
be done by taking a minimum 30-inch section of counter mounted on heavy
duty shelf brackets to be adjustable for alternative heights. This section
is commonly used as the mixing center. Standard counter height increments
are 28 inches, 32 inches and 36 inches (36 is standard). The toe space
is 10 inches high and 8 inches deep under the cabinet for clearance of
wheelchair footrests.

Other recommendations for base cabinets
include: U-shaped handles for easy use to avoid grasping a knob; installing
lazy-susans, pull-out trays or storage shelves and pot racks; holders for
various food wraps attached to the inside of cabinet doors; 2 feet of heat-resistant
countertop next to the range allowing wheelchair users to slide hot utensils
without the danger of trying to lift them; using small electrical appliances,
which often are easier to handle; and, if possible, the installation of
a double sink with a shallow (5 to 6 inch) side or a cushioned rack in
one side that can be used to raise the bottom of one side of the sink.
The drain of the sink should be in the back for easier reach and maximum
leg space around the disposal.

The bottom shelf of the wall cabinets
should be lowered to a maximum of 48 inches above the floor. If renting,
consider adding a shelf under the wall cabinet--a variety of types and
sizes are available. Under-the-cabinet small appliances are becoming very
popular, but before purchasing one, make sure that the wheelchair user
can comfortably reach and use it.

Storing food and utensils

Another area of the kitchen that
can help or hinder the independence of a wheelchair user is the placement
of food and dishes. Be inventive and try putting items in different places.

Utensils and appliances should be
close to the appropriate work areas, even if it means duplicating some
items. Long barbecue tongs can be hung in various locations throughout
the house to retrieve things that fall or are too high to reach.

Keep heavy pots, pans, dishes and
mixing bowls on bottom shelves, along with canned foods. There are pull-out
shelves that are easy to install and can provide more bottom shelf space.
(These can be taken with you if you move.) Top shelves can hold boxes,
glasses and small items, as well as items not used on a regular basis.
If the top shelf is made of clear plastic, a person in a wheelchair can
see the contents.

Shelves can be installed in a broom
closet to convert it into a pantry. Pegboard, attached to the wall and
equipped with hooks, is an excellent way to store pots, pans and utensils
or anything else often used. An extension gripper permits a seated person
to use high shelves that would otherwise be out of reach. Unbreakable,
plastic containers and stainless steel bowls also are helpful.

A rolling cart or cutting-block table
with wheels can be used for taking food and dishes and small appliances
to and from the table (particularly if the table is in another room) or
used for a work center. A lazy-susan on a shelf in the refrigerator makes
retrieving food from the back much easier. To help see food that is cooking,
attach a removable mirror at an angle to the wall behind the cooktop. It's
easier to see from a wheelchair if food is cooking in clear glass cookware.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms are a necessity of life--but
something most people take for granted. Wheelchair users cannot take them
for granted. Both residential bathrooms and commercial restrooms have two
problems in common: narrow doors and no grab bars. If the residence is
fairly new or the geographic area uses accessible housing standards, the
walls in the tub area and the walls behind and next to the toilet should
have extra blocking. Blocking is a structural reinforcement within a wall
that allows a grab b r to be attached securely. Studs can be used too,
but may not be located in the most desirable location.

If the sink is free-standing, extra
support should be installed under the front edge of the sink or an "L"
bracket should be added since disabled people tend to lean heavily on the
sink. Countertop sinks are safer for support and access. The doors on under-sink
cabinets can be removed much the same as in the kitchen. Again, remember
to insulate hot water pipes.

Grab bars

The purpose of a grab bar is to help
support a person, and the grab bar must be able to support a person's weight
until help arrives or the person can right him/herself. A grab bar is both
pulled and pushed against.

The standard size for a grab bar
is 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches in diameter and should be 1-1/2 inches away from
the wall. A sturdy towel rod can be used if it is screwed into a stud or
blocking--make sure that it doesn't rotate in its fittings. With some new
construction, blocking is placed in the walls such that grab bars can be
installed easily. If there is no blocking in the walls, it can be added.
The recommended type is 3/4 inch plywood, 6 to 12 inches wide, toe-nailed
(at an angle) into the s uds; or a 4 by 8-inch block toe-nailed into the
studs.

Heavy duty towel racks or grab bars
can be used if they are anchored securely to the wall. Grab bars come in
metal or plastic and in many sizes and colors. Colors are easier to see
in an emergency. Medical supply stores, plumbing fixture shops and hardware
stores will have towel racks and/or grab bars. Grab bars with a slight
texture are easier to grip.

Bathtubs

In the bathtub area, the blocking
should be the full length of the tub. This allows grab bars to be installed
anywhere in the area or in more than one place. The end of the tub (opposite
the drain) also needs blocking. This should be the tub width.

If the person can use a tub without
assistance, a bath mat is a good way to prevent slipping. There also are
a variety of inside-the-tub chairs and benches that can be purchased from
medical supply stores. A hand-held shower attachment mounted on the wall
will allow either a standing or seated person to easily use the shower.
Make sure it has a 6-foot hose and controls in the handle. The doorway
of the bathroom should have a flush sill with a clear opening of 32 inches.
If the doorway can be m de wide enough by removing the door itself, then
a curtain can be hung for privacy; a folding door is another alternative.
If the house or apartment has a shower door, replace the door and the metal
track with a curtain. It is difficult to transfer over a shower track.

Toilets

At the toilet, the blocked areas
should be behind the toilet and on at least one side. If there is no wall
next to the toilet, an L-shaped grab bar can be installed by attaching
the front end to the floor and the back to the wall behind the toilet.
Never install grab bars at an angle (Figure 4).

Since the toilet is often too low
for a seated person, the purchase of an elevated toilet seat may be necessary.
There are portable and permanent toilet seat attachments available; some
have adjustable seat heights. There also are seats with arms and guard
rails. Leave an access space between the toilet seat and the toilet for
personal hygiene.

Mirrors and storage

Another problem area may be small
mirrors and/or high medicine cabinets. A shelf in the base cabinets or
items placed on the counter can make up for not being able to reach the
medicine cabinet. The mirror on the medicine cabinet can be taken off and
lowered or a wall mirror can be used. If it cannot be lowered, it can be
installed at an angle.

At least one clear path of travel,
without stairs, is required from the front door of the dwelling to at least
the following areas: kitchen, dining area, bedroom, bathroom, living room
and storage areas. The wheelchair user always should be able to gain access
to at least one bedroom and full bathroom. Also, provide an alternate exit
in case of fire.

Maneuverability within individual
rooms is essential for comfort and freedom. All furniture need not be placed
against the walls. However, make sure there are at least 32 inch aisles
for access to such things as television, stereo, telephone, windows, books
and hobby supplies. Ensure that supplies and controls for the television
and windows are below 48 inch in height. If the residence is small, some
furnishings may need to be omitted to prevent congestion.

The wheelchair user generally finds
that transferring to a bed, couch or chair is easier and safer if they
are the same height as the seat of the wheelchair. If new furniture cannot
be purchased at compatible heights, blocks of wood placed under the legs
of furniture can raise existing objects to the desired heights. Table heights
may be too low for the wheelchair user. It is important that a person's
knees and thighs fit comfortably under a dining or work table. The easiest
and least expensiv table to make is with two sawhorse supports and an old
door placed on top. An adjustable height table is more expensive, but it
can be lowered for tasks like kneading dough or raised for tasks requiring
close work or reading.

Rugs and area carpets can cause extreme
hardship for a wheelchair user. Shag rugs show wheel tracks and rugs with
thick padding cause the chair tires to sink, making pushing and turning
the chair difficult. Velvet carpets with nap can force the wheelchair in
the wrong direction. Scatter or area rugs should be avoided as they become
tangled in the smaller front chair wheels. Low, level, loop pile carpeting
with little or no padding is best. In bedrooms, no carpeting is preferred
because of freq ent turning.

Light switches, thermostats, drapery
pulls, towel racks and fire alarms (human activated warning systems) have
an ideal height of 3 to 4 feet above the floor; they should be no lower
than 15 inches above the floor. For people with coordination limits, replace
toggle light switches with pressure sensitive switch plates. Also, window
locking devices that are reachable and easily managed offer a sense of
security.

Most clothes rods in closets are
too high to be reached easily by anyone in a seated position. Lowering
the bar to a maximum height of 54 inch or installing an adjustable bar
is recommended. Many pre-fabricated closet accessories are now available
that can be combined in various configurations to meet one's own storage
needs and be easily dismantled and taken along if one moves.