The term already applies to a fantastic trio of Mexican muralists — Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros. But like art, food can influence our social and political development (read Eric Schlosser). And sometimes the mouth is the first point of contact with a culture.

So who are Los Tres Grandes here? One’s a lard lover, another’s Guy Fieri-approved and the last was a taco stop for Hollywood stars.

Not far from a Chicano Park mural honoring Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros, there’s this simple, lard-loving shop. Three generations of Estudillos have ladled out the kind of authentic Mexican food San Diegans would sign petitions to protect. Give us two pork tacos, homemade pinto beans and flour tortillas made on-site for $5.50, or give us la muerte. About the next generation’s interest in the biz, 64-year-old owner/cashier Margarita Estudillo Hernandez isn’t sure. “We don’t know how many more years we’ll be here. But people are always hungry.”

Yolanda Rodriguez, who has worked at El Indio for 42 years, makes beef taquitos. — John Gibbins

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Yolanda Rodriguez, who has worked at El Indio for 42 years, makes beef taquitos.
— John Gibbins

Tortilla lore says Ralph Pesqueira Sr. named a deep-fried, rolled-up tortilla flute the “taquito” around the end of World War II. Today they’re $1.33 each (with guac, lettuce, cheese and salsa). Surprisingly, 70-year-old Ralph Jr. credits Taco Bell with their first wave of popularity. “It got a lot more people interested in Mexican food. People would come in and say, ‘I was eating a taco at Taco Bell and a friend said, Oh no, you’ve got to go down to El Indio.’ ” Word spread to Guy Fieri put them on his Food Network show.

The "original combo" with a turkey taco and a cheese enchilada rice and beans on Thursday at Tony's Jacal Mexican restaurant in Solana Beach.— Eduardo Contreras

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The "original combo" with a turkey taco and a cheese enchilada rice and beans on Thursday at Tony's Jacal Mexican restaurant in Solana Beach.
— Eduardo Contreras

A “jacal” is an old shack, and this one, near the Del Mar Racetrack, has a plaque celebrating Tony and Catalina Gonzales’ historic restaurant. Supposedly the stars Desi Arnaz, Elizabeth Taylor and Greta Garbo came here for tacos after playing the ponies. Today, you’ll find the Jennie-O contingent eating pressure-cooked, shredded turkey breast tacos for $4.75 each. “We’re still busy as ever ’cause we treat everybody like family,” says the Gonzaleses’ grandson, Ray Rincon.