It’s ‘hipster wine’ if it’s rare, odd or organic

The word “hipster” paired with “wine” is not exactly commonplace here in San Diego. The most fashionable kids these days are drinking beer. Some prefer the blue-collar authenticity and price of PBR while others seek out the rare and highly-in-demand “micro” and “nano” brews by one of the new local ale crafters like Societe, Monkey Paw and Hess.

Let me first say that I am an aging hipster from the ’90s Bay Area scene. I played bass in a band and worked a day job as a cabinetmaker using reclaimed wood, drove a 1966 Ford pickup and lived in a warehouse on the railroad tracks in West Berkeley. I have no shame admitting my social identity at the time. Let’s face it, hipsters are into really cool stuff.

Recently, I’ve been watching the young hipsters become increasingly sophisticated when it comes to their drinks, whether it be enjoying one of the Automatic masterpieces at Blind Lady or having a lovingly crafted classic cocktail by Sarah Ellis here at Jaynes. Unfortunately I see very few young people developing this same intrigue with wine. The wine selection at most of the popular beer bars and cocktail joints are at best an afterthought, with wines being left open well past their prime. This is most definitely not the case in the hipster incubators of the Bay Area, New York or the Northwest, so it’s probably only a matter of time before the thirsty San Diego hipsters get over what everyone else is doing and take an interest in the grape.

What is a “hipster wine”? This term is just breaking through, a recent Wall Street Journal article being the most high-profile reference, but it may have some of the following characteristics:

One: It should be hard to find. If you can get it at BevMo or Trader Joes, it ain’t it.

Two, and I’m not being facetious: It may have certain characteristics that make it difficult for the untrained palate to tell whether it is even wine at all. (For example, orange wine.)

Three: It is very likely the result of organic and/or biodynamic farming coupled with non-interventionalist winemaking practices while falling into the category of “natural wine.” (See The Feiring Line blog for more info at www.alicefeiring.com.)

Here are a few wines you might seek out for a solid introduction to the hipster wine. Your best bet would be to go to the smaller hipster-friendly wine shops, such as Village Vino in Kensington or Third Corner in OB or Encinitas.

Movia “Lunar”: Ribolla Gialla: The wines of Slovenia are excellent, with the rich Ribolla Gialla grape being perhaps the most popular hipster variety. This wine is made in an incredibly simple fashion with no pressing of the grapes while following strict lunar cycles. The wine has an orange hue coming from the extended skin contact and is very cloudy. There is a slightly oxidative, sherry-like taste to the wine. If you like a sour beer, you’d really like this wine. There are no added yeasts, chemicals or filtration of any kind.