Climbed The North East Face on Warren Glacier by approaching from Brohm Ridge which is a very asthetic approach with a spectacular camp at the very end of ridge about 2000m or so. Route was in great shape, schrund was filled in almost entirely but conditions were very avalanchy from wind loading particularily cross loaded below the icecliff at bergschrund and a I trigured a class 1 slab avalanche, dangerous due to open crevasses below. even so early in teh season. I get the impression this face is avalanche prone as it is a windy mountain that collects a lot of snow and this seems to be the lee slope of the mountain. Spectacular climb though.

Day trip with my buddy Rob via Brohm ridge. The conditions were perfect with just the points of our crampons breaking the suface of the hard snow pack, like walking on styromfoam. The shrund was only open 6" so we easily crossed that and up to the top. Very cold and brezzy however being a winter ascent. At times my words were slurred from having frozen lips. Got lost in the maze of snowmobile tracks on Brohm ridge on the way out after night fall. Fortunatley had a topo and GPS so didn't have to emergency bivy in a snow cave and navigated through the darkness untill we reastablished our tracks. Fantastic outing!!

Shirley, Charlie, Bill, Roy and Rik from OSAT climbed through the old ski area to the Brohm Ridge approach to the mountain. Snomobilers galore on the lower part of the mountain, but we had most of the ridge to ourselves.

Camped just inside the park boundary, and saw the most spectacular avalanche, from near the summit all the way to the bottom of the west face of the mountain, perhaps 4,000 feet of descent entrailing an incredible volume of snow at a terrific velocity when it hit the bottom. Oh yes, Mother Nature, you are in charge!

Climb of the glacier on the north side of the mountain was uneventful, the bergschrund being only a slight challenge.

Great climb with Justin, Lisa, Andrej & Bob. No snow most of the way to Elfin Lakes, which was hard on the feet in plastics. Very crumbly scramble to the summit. Worth it once we survived it. Set up webbing on a big boulder to rap down.

"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."
--M. Cartmill