Tasting Rose Wines

Rose wines are often neglected and not very
appreciated, however they are pleasing and can give sensations which remind
fruit's freshness

Among the types of wines produced, roses are certainly the most neglected and
least appreciated wines, they practically are hidden between white wines and
red wines, however they are the perfect element which connects the two most
common style of wines; when a white wine is not enough and a red wine is
just too much, rose wine represents the ideal solution. It should be
however remembered that the category of rose wines has been underrated in the
past mainly because of a certain kind of restaurants, when they used to mix,
without any kind of scruple, reds and whites together therefore creating a very
bad quality product which certainly did not help to the success of rose wines.
It must also be remembered there is a specific law, in force in almost every
wine producing country of the world, which forbids the production of rose wine
by mixing white and red wines, therefore this is a prejudice to be abandoned.
Whether this is a warrant offered by any serious rose wines producer who sells
its wine in sealed bottled, the same is not always guaranteed, unfortunately,
for non bottled wine. In order to provide a complete information, it should be
remembered that the mixing of white wines and red wines is only permitted for
the production of rose sparkling wines elaborated with the classic method.

Rose wines should be reevaluated and considered as real and proper wines, by
recognizing them their status of real wine and this is not what unfortunately
is happening. Rose wines are produced with proper and specific methods, just
like for white wines and red wines or sparkling wines. The agreeability of
these wines, to be consumed in their youth, in their best time, can be compared
to the one of white wines; practically no rose wine is suited for the aging in
bottle and they are wines expressly produced for being consumed soon after they
are released on the market, after all, the same can be said for most of white
wines. The reason why rose wines are not suited for the aging in bottle is
because of the lack of preservative substances: these wines are generally less
acid of whites and contain a quantity of tannins very inferior to the one of
red wines. As rose wines should be consumed in their youth, they can give
pleasing and fresh sensations, usually of fruit, that cannot be generally found
in other kind of wines: a good reason for properly considering and reevaluating
this too much neglected category of wines.

Color

Contrary to the other types of wine, in general terms, the color in rose wines
has no connection with aging, as they are usually consumed within one year or
two from their production, indeed they are a sign of the technique used for
their vinification, the grapes used and the area of origin. However these wines
tend with time to get brown colors and nuances, a signal which indicates, not
only the excessive aging, but also and particularly its oxidization, mainly
because of the bad keeping practices and of high temperature.

The main factor which determines the color in rose wines is the technique used
for their production. There are two main systems for the production of these
wines, both to be considered as real and proper vinification techniques. The
first one consists in softly pressing red berried grapes in order to get a
lightly colored must and soon after separated from skins. The second technique
consists in macerating the skins on the must, just like any red wine, and
allowing the contact for a relatively short period of time and enough to color
the wine according to the type of product to be made. Using this method also
adds a higher structure to the wine because of tannins being extracted from
skins. The usual time spent for maceration is of about 6-12 hours, in this case
wines are called wines of one night, up to 24 hours for wines called
wines of one day. At the end of these initial procedures, vinification is
completed by means of the usual white wine making techniques. Rose wines are
not to be considered as hybrid wines or low quality red wines, they are
real wines and produced with specific techniques.

Defining a range of color for rose wines is pretty hard because their color is
determined by many factors, in particular by the vinification technique,
therefore the time of maceration and the species of grapes used. Typical colors
can range from light pale pink up to light red, with a vast range of nuances in
between. Evident orange, yellow or brown colors or nuances are usually the sign
of an oxidized wine or however an excessive aging and these colors should never
be found in a rose wine. A quality rose wine should always have a firm pink
color, with no evident nuances, not excessively red, and even though this is
not generally wished, a light nuance of orange or blue is however acceptable.
Brown colors or nuances, and however colors resembling brown, are always and
however to be considered as a negative factor, sign of oxidizations or
excessive aging, in practice, the presence of this color is a clean sign that
the wine has lost its best organoleptic qualities. The intensity of color in
rose wines is generally a sign of the vinification technique used: wines made
by just pressing grapes are lighter and paler than the ones produced with
maceration.

Aromas

The main characteristic every rose wine should have is aromaticity. Despite the
fact these wines does not usually have a considerable structure, the most
pleasing aspect of tasting rose wines is certainly represented by their aromas.
Considering the habit of consuming these wines when they are young, talking
about the evolution of aromas in rose wines does not have any practical use,
mainly because these wines offer their best organoleptic characteristics during
their youth.

Aromas of rose wines seems to be the connection point between white wines and
red wines, in this type of wines there can be perceived the typical aromas of
white wines as well as of red wines, therefore they will be typical aromas of
rose wines. Aromas of flowers and fruit will be the most common types, however,
according to the quality of grapes used, there can be perceived vegetal aromas
as well and in the not so common case a producer decided to age its rose wine
in cask, there can also be perceived spicy and toasted aromas.

Even the most typical aromas in rose wines, the ones belonging to the family of
flowers and fruit, mainly depend by the quality of the grapes
used for their production, however the aromas that will be perceived will be
similar to the ones of white and red wines produced with the very same grapes.
Sometimes can also be found vegetal aromas, in particular aromas of bell
pepper, walnut-husk and black currant leaf. Aromas of dried fruit are pretty
rare in rose wines, however in many of them it is possible to perceive a clear
and evident aroma of almond.

Taste and Balance

Just like aromas, taste in rose wines must be pleasingly fresh as well; a rose
wine lacking in acidity will always be flat and not very interesting, however a
too much acid rose wine will be unpleasing and too much aggressive. Balance in
this type of wine must be evaluated according to the production technique. The
element which will be always present, certainly in proper and right quantities
in order to balance its opposing elements, will be alcohol, useful in balancing
acidity and any possible astringency because of tannins passed to wine during
maceration in skins. Astringency in rose wines, when present, will always and
however be moderate, far lower than the one of red wines, however, when it is
present, acidity must be lesser. Even in case a rose wine has a perceptible
astringency, acidity will however be the characteristic to be favored the most,
just because everyone expects this characteristic from a rose wine.

Even the taste-olfactory correspondence is a characteristic that should be
common in these wines. In the mouth rose wines must have the freshness of
flowers and fruits that was perceived by the nose, certainly completed by a
pleasing crispness. Tannins will contribute to give body to the wine, however
this aspect must not be excessive in order not to have a heavy and unpleasing
wine.

Practical Application

In order to better understand rose wines, we will now have a comparative and
practical tasting of three wines produced in different areas. To do the
practical application explained in this section we will need a bottle of
Bardolino Chiaretto, a rose wine from Salento and, lastly, a Cirò
Rosato, all wines being of the latest vintage. These three Italian wines are
produced with different grapes and in different areas: Bardolino Chiaretto is a
wine from Veneto and is usually produced with Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
grapes; Salento Rosato is produced in Apulia with Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera
grapes; whereas Cirò Rosato is produced in Calabria with Gaglioppo grape. The
three wines will be served at temperatures ranging from 12 and 14° C
(53.6-57.2° F). In rose wines the temperature plays a fundamental role and will
be essential in particular to the perception of tastes: lower temperatures will
tend to favor the perception of acidity and tannins, whereas higher
temperatures will tend to favor roundness.

In the appearance the three wines show pretty typical colors: Bardolino
Chiaretto shows a rose color which is lighter than the other two, with nuances
of cherry red; Salento Rosato will show a more firm color, an intense pink with
nuances of cherry red; lastly, Cirò Rosato will probably be the one having a
deeper color compared to the other two, it will more likely to have a color
similar to the one of Salento Rosato.

To the nose the three wines will have the typical characteristics of rose
wines: freshness, fragrance and evident aromas of fruit and flowers. Bardolino
Chiaretto will have aromas more oriented to fruit, in particular, raspberry,
strawberry and cherry, however it will not be rare to perceive aromas of
freesia, hawthorn and violet as well. Salento Rosato will have aromas oriented
to fruits such as raspberry, strawberry, almond and peach as well as flower
aromas of rose, jasmine and violet. Cirò Rosato will mainly characterized by
fruit aromas, in particular cherry, raspberry, black cherry, strawberry and,
sometimes, banana and peach as well. In this wine can also be perceived an
aroma of rose.

In the mouth the three wines will be very agreeable and pleasing, with a pretty
evident freshness and crispness. Bardolino Chiaretto will be rounder, if
compared to the other two, whereas Salento Rosato will seem to have a higher
structure because of the higher contents in tannins, even though it will be the
freshness to prevail over the other tastes. The same sensation will also be
found in Cirò Rosato. The three wines will however be balanced and it will be
interesting to paying attention to the evaluation of the intensity of acidity
and astringency in regard to balance. The taste the three wines will leave in
the mouth will be very agreeable with evident flavors of fruit and it will also
be possible to perceive a clean flavor of almond.

Wines of the Month

Fair Pretty Good Good Very Good Excellent Wine that excels in its categoryPrices are to be considered as indicative. Prices may vary according to the countryor the shop where wines are bought

Alto Adige Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof 2001

Hofstätter (Italy)

Grapes: Gewürztraminer

Price: € 19,30

Score:

The wine is crystalline with an intense straw yellow color and nuances
of straw yellow, very transparent. The nose is elegant, refined and of
great personality with intense, rich, clean and persistent aromas such
as apricot, pineapple, banana, passion fruit, broom, kiwi, litchi,
honey, pear, peach, sage as well as an intense and pleasing typical
aroma of the grape. In the mouth has an excellent correspondence to
the nose and a magnificent balance. Alcohol, present in good quantity,
is perfectly balanced by wine's acidity, flavors are very intense and
agreeable. The finish is practically endless, very long and with
strong, agreeable and clean flavors of peach, banana, pear, kiwi,
honey and litchi. Simply a magnificent wine. This wine is produced
with a short maceration of must in skins followed by a fermentation at
a controlled temperature.

Alto Adige Bianco Barthenau Vigna San Michele 2001

The wine is crystalline with a straw yellow color and nuances of
greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals an aroma of wood,
very refined and well integrated with other aromas and not intrusive at
all. There can be perceived good and intense aromas of banana,
hawthorn, litchi, apple, pear, peach, elder flower and vanilla, all
very elegant, refined and pleasing. In the mouth is balanced with
excellent correspondence to the nose, intense and crisp. Very
agreeable. The finish is persistent with elegant flavors of vanilla,
pear, apple and peach. A good wine. This wine is produced with
fermentation of the grapes, part in steel tanks and part in barrique.

Food Match: Appetizers, Risotto and pasta with fish, White meat

Alto Adige Lagrein Steinraffler 1999

Hofstätter (Italy)

Grapes: Lagrein

Price: € 25,70

Score:

The wine shows a beautiful and intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby
red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals a long series of intense,
complex, rich and pleasing aromas as well as good personality. There can
be perceived good aromas of black cherry, anise, cocoa, coffee, toffee,
carob, cherry macerated in alcohol, licorice, blueberry, black pepper, plum
and vanilla. In mouth denotes a slightly crisp attack however well
balanced and good correspondence to the nose. Smooth and agreeable
tannins, intense flavors. The finish is persistent with good and pleasing
flavors of black cherry, toffee, coffee and plum. A well made wine. This
Lagrein is aged for 15 months in barriques, 6 months in casks and for at
least 12 months in bottle.

Food Match: Game, Hard cheese, Braised meat, Stewed meat

Colli del Trasimeno Grechetto Nuricante 2002

Duca della Corgna (Italy)

Grapes: Grechetto

Price: € 4,80

Score:

The wine shows a light straw yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow,
very transparent. The nose reveals good personality with elegant,
pleasing, intense and clean aromas of banana, hawthorn, kiwi, apple,
honey, hazelnut, pear and citrus peel. In mouth has good correspondence to
the nose and good balance, intense flavors and agreeable. The finish is
persistent with flavors of pear and apple. Part of the must used to make
this wine is fermented in barrique.

Colli del Trasimeno Gamay Divina Villa Etichetta Nera 2000

Duca della Corgna (Italy)

Grapes: Gamay

Price: € 9,20

Score:

The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate
transparency. The nose denotes intense, elegant, clean and pleasing aromas
of black cherry, blackberry jam, raspberry, plum and black currant
followed by pleasing aromas of licorice, violet, eucalyptus and vanilla.
In mouth reveals good correspondence to the nose, an alcoholic attack
however well balanced by tannins, intense flavors and good body. The
finish is persistent with pleasing flavors of plum, black cherry and black
currant. A well made wine. This Gamay ages for about 12 months in barrique
followed by 7 months in bottle.

Franciacorta Prima Cuvée Brut

Monte Rossa (Italy)

Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (85%) Pinot Noir (15%)

Price: € 13,00

Score:

The wine shows an intense greenish yellow color and nuances of greenish
yellow, fine and persistent perlage. The nose reveals intense, pleasing
and elegant aromas of citrus fruit, yeast, butter, hawthorn, almond, apple,
pear, banana and peach. In mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a
crisp attack however well balanced, appreciable effervescence, intense
flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of almond, citrus fruit and
pear. This Franciacorta is produced with wines partially aged in barrique
and stays in contact of the lees for at least 24 months.

Food Match: Soft cheese, Pasta and risotto with fish, Crustaceans

Barbera d'Alba Vigna dei Romani 2000

Enzo Boglietti (Italy)

Grapes: Barbera

Price: € 33,00

Score:

A magnificent Barbera! This wine shows a beautiful deep ruby red color and
nuances of ruby red, little transparency. The nose reveals great
personality with intense, clean, elegant and refined aromas where it can
be perceived a clear hint of toasted wood which does not disturb the
perception of other aromas. There can be perceived good aromas of black
cherry jam, cherry jam, plum jam, raspberry, black currant and dried
violet followed by good and intense aromas of cocoa, toffee, licorice,
vanilla and toasted wood. In mouth reveals excellent correspondence to the
nose, a slightly tannic attack however balanced by alcohol and acidity of
Barbera. Intense flavors and full body. The finish is very persistent with
long and clean flavors of black cherry, plum and toasted. A truly great
wine and very well made. Vigna dei Romani is aged for 16 months in
barrique and for 4 months in bottle.

Barolo Vigna delle Brunate 1999

Enzo Boglietti (Italy)

Grapes: Nebbiolo

Price: € 52,00

Score:

Excellent Barolo! The wine has a beautiful and intense garnet red color
and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals
personality with intense, clean, pleasing, elegant and refined aromas of
cherry, violet, strawberry jam, raspberry jam and plum jam followed by
good and intense aromas of chocolate, leather, licorice, menthol, tobacco
and vanilla. In mouth denotes a tannic attack however balanced, good
correspondence to the nose, intense flavors and full body. The finish is
very persistent with long and clean flavors of cherry, plum and raspberry.
A great and well made wine that will give its best with further years of
aging in bottle. This Barolo ages for 30 months in cask followed by 8
months of aging in bottle.

Collio Sauvignon 2002

Mangilli (Italy)

Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc

Price: € 7,60

Score:

The wine shows a light straw yellow and nuances of greenish yellow, very
transparent. The nose has personality with elegant, intense, clean and
pleasing aromas, mainly of flowers, such as chamomile, chrysanthemum,
carnation, yellow rose and elder followed by good aromas of apple, pear,
peach, tomato leaf, bell pepper and basil. In the mouth is balanced, very
agreeable with intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of
apple, peach and pear. A well made wine. This Sauvignon Blanc is
fermented in steel tanks and ages for at least 30 days in bottle.

Progetto 1996

Mangilli (Italy)

Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Merlot (20%)

Price: € 14,30

Score:

The wine has an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little
transparency. The nose reveals personality with intense, clean, elegant
and refined aromas of black cherry, strawberry jam, raspberry jam,
blackberry jam, plum jam, blueberry and violet followed by good aromas of
vanilla, licorice and cocoa. In the mouth has good correspondence to the
nose, a slightly tannic attack however well balanced by alcohol, intense
flavors and full bodied. The finish is very persistent with good and
pleasing flavors of black cherry, plum, blueberry and raspberry. Progetto
ferments in steel tanks and ages in casks for 2 years followed by an aging
in bottle for at least 12 months.

Food Match: Roasted meat, Game, Braised meat, Hard cheese

Vallée d'Aoste Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle Rayon 2002

Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle (Italy)

Grapes: Blanc de Morgex

Price: € 7,60

Score:

A white of great elegance. The wine shows a beautiful brilliant greenish
yellow color and nuances of greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose
reveals good personality and a series of intense, elegant, very refined,
clean and pleasing aromas of citrus fruit, pineapple, hawthorn, acacia,
broom, litchi, apple, pear, peach and plum as well as a pleasing hint of
anise. In mouth is very agreeable with a crisp attack well balanced by
alcohol, intense flavors and excellent correspondence to the nose. The
finish is very persistent with long and pleasing flavors of pear, peach,
litchi and pineapple. A very elegant and well made wine.

Chaudelune Vin de Glace

The wine shows a light golden yellow color and nuances of straw yellow,
very transparent. The nose has clean, pleasing, intense and elegant aromas
of dried apricot, peach jam, almond, cooked apple, cooked pear, honey,
candied fruit, citrus fruit peel and vanilla as well as an aroma of
toasted wood. In mouth reveals good correspondence to the nose, a crisp
attack however well balanced, intense flavors and smoothness. The finish
is persistent with flavors of peach, honey and pear. Chaudelune is
produced with grapes harvested at temperatures below zero and is fermented
in barrique followed by a long aging in bottle.

Food Match: Hard cheese, Confectionery, Dried fruit or almond tarts

Garda Classico Groppello Maim 2000

Costaripa (Italy)

Grapes: Groppello

Price: € 10,35

Score:

The wine has a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate
transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean and pleasing aromas of black
cherry, blueberry, blackberry and plum followed by good aromas of vanilla
where good aromas of wood are also perceived. In mouth denotes good
correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack however balanced,
good body and intense flavors. The finish is persistent with flavors of
black cherry, blueberry and plum. Maim Ages in cask for at least 12 months
followed by at least 10 months of aging in bottle.

Garda Classico Campostarne 2001

Costaripa (Italy)

Grapes: Groppello, Marzemino, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Price: € 5,00

Score:

The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red,
moderate transparency. The nose denotes personality with intense, clean
and elegant aromas of black cherry, raspberry, blueberry and plum followed
by aromas of vanilla and violet as well as hints of smoke and toffee. In
mouth reveals good correspondence to the nose, good balance and body as
well as tannins in good evidence. The finish is persistent with flavors of
raspberry, blueberry and plum.

Orvieto Classico Superiore Campo del Guardiano 2000

The wine shows a beautiful light straw yellow color and nuances of
greenish yellow, very transparent. The nose has intense, clean, elegant
and pleasing aromas of hawthorn , broom, almond, apple, medlar, hazelnut,
pear and peach as well as a pleasing hint of rosemary. In the mouth
reveals good correspondence to the nose, a crisp and round attack however
well balanced by alcohol, good body and intense flavors, agreeable. The
finish is persistent with good flavors of apple, pear and peach. This
Orvieto Classico is ages in bottle for 16-18 months.

Rubbio 2002

Palazzone (Italy)

Grapes: Sangiovese (70%) Canaiolo, Montepulciano (30%)

Price: € 7,00

Score:

The wine shows a brilliant ruby red color and nuances of ruby red, moderate
transparency. The nose reveals good personality with intense, clean,
elegant and pleasing aromas of cherry, strawberry, raspberry and violet
followed by pleasing aromas of rose as well as hints of peach. In mouth has
good correspondence to the nose, a slightly tannic attack however balanced
by alcohol, intense flavors and agreeable. The finish is persistent with
pleasing flavors of raspberry and cherry. Rubbio ages for 6 months in
barrique and for 2 months in bottle.

Food Match: White roasted meat, Sauteed meat, Hard cheese

Vermentino di Sardegna Cala Silente 2002

Santadi (Italy)

Grapes: Vermentino

Price: € 6,24

Score:

The wine shows an intense straw yellow color and nuances of greenish
yellow, very transparent. The nose reveals pleasing, intense and clean
aromas of banana, broom, wistaria, kiwi, lemon, pear, apple, gooseberry
followed by good aromas of fennel and vanilla. In mouth denotes good
correspondence to the nose, good balance, intense flavors, agreeable. The
finish is persistent with good flavors of apple, banana and pear. Cala
Silente partly ages in barrique and partly in steel tanks.

Carignano del Sulcis Superiore Terre Brune 1999

Santadi (Italy)

Grapes: Carignano (95%), Bovale (5%)

Price: € 24,00

Score:

The wine shows an intense ruby red color and nuances of garnet red, little
transparency. The nose reveals personality with intense, elegant, clean
and refined aromas, very pleasing, of strawberry jam, blackberry jam,
peach jam, raspberry, blueberry, plum, iris and violet followed by good
aromas of carob, vanilla, licorice and mint. In mouth denotes good
correspondence to the nose, round and smooth, very balanced, full body and
intense flavors. The finish is persistent with pleasing and clean flavors
of plum, blueberry and peach jam. A well made wine. Terre Brune is aged
for 15-18 months in barrique and for 12 months in bottle.

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