Sorry to revive an old thread. Thought I would post my install up in adjunct to the instructions already provided by RPM on Page 14 of this thread. Made my install go a lot easier. If you have a box wrench, perfect. If not, go get one. It will make your life easier! I didn't have one and had already started so I made do with what I had.

So here are my steps but please use them in reference to RPM's instructions. Also, this is mean to be a guide and if you are not comfortable with doing it, do not attempt.

Get an old tupperware container or some container to hold the bolts and for cleaning parts. Helps to keep things in one place so you don't loose it.

1. Turn the wheel to the left (this will give you some room to work with on the lower banjo bolt)

2. Loosen the wheel lugs

3. Jack the car up and use jack stands.

4. Remove wheel lugs and set tire aside.

5. Remove the plastic splash shield. This will give you access to the side bolts of the VVTI line shield. I found it easier to access it from below then to get it from above. There are 3 of those dreaded pop out plastic things. Easy to remove and once off you can just remove the plastic piece. Set that aside once you have it removed.

6. Remove the VVTI line shield (10mm bolts, there are 2 of them). I accessed this from the bottom vs the top. I had use a socket for loosening the bolt closest to the engine. The other bolt I ended up using a wrench to get at. My socket and wrench did not fit in there...another spot where a box wrench would have made life easier. But nonetheless, made do with what I had to get the job done. These aren't that tight on there so they are easy to break free. You may wrestle with the plastic piece to get it out of the engine compartment. I found it easiest to move it so it fell out of the bottom.

7. Place some rags or blue shop towels under the banjo bolts to catch the oil that will spill out. Alternatively, if you have those oil absorbing towels, use those. The lower banjo bolt will release a bit of oil once loosened.

8. Remove the top banjo bolt from the oil line. If you have AC, remove the bolt on the bracket that is holding it. You will be able to fit a larger torque wrench back there if you do. Otherwise, fitting even a regular socket and ratchet in there will be next to impossible. If you have a box wrench, that would help out. Be aware that the bolt is damn tight on there. I ended up using my 1/2" torque wrench to break it free.

9. Remove the VVTI line bracket as per RPM's instructions. It's the middle bolt. Comes off fairly easy and I accessed it from underneath.

10. Clean the banjo bolt and the filter. Don't loose the filter. I cleaned the filter with brake cleaner. I couldn't seen anything in the filter, looked to be free of debris so all good there. I also cleaned up the bolt. Remove the old crush washers. Install ONE of the washers onto the bolt. You'll install the other one once you are ready to install the new line.

11. Loosen the lower banjo bolt. I used an extension socket and my torque wrench to break this free as well. A shorter wrench is quite difficult in that spot as it is already a bit tight. This is the reason why I moved turned the wheel to the left. It allowed a bit more clearance and leeway to get some good leverage. The bolt broke free! And when it did, the oil started flowing, which is why it is important to lay the towels and rags down first. Remove the bolt and clean it up with brake cleaner. Set that aside.

12. Remove the VVTI line, I just moved it off to the side (towards passenger side) and it came out no problem!

13. Clean off the banjo bolt holes by wiping it.

14. Install the new VVTI line as per RPM's instructions but leave the bottom washer until later. I found it easier to install the washer after the top was secured. Put in the bolt and the remaining washer. Hand tighten it but loosely.

15. Go to the bottom banjo bolt and note how the old washer was installed. Install it the same way. The line can be moved a bit to make room for the washer to slide in. Put in the bolt and hand tighten.

16. Reinstall the VVTI line bracket. The black tab is moveable so if it is not in the right spot, you can slide it along or rotate to get it to line up. Hand tighten and then snug up with your socket.

17. Set your torque wrench to 48ft lbs as per RPM's instructions. Tighten to specs.

18. Reinstall the VVTI line cover.

19. Do not reinstall your wheel at this point. Clear your engine bay of your tools.

20. Start your vehicle and run it for a couple of minutes. The line will sorta "burb" as it primes itself with oil. Now at this point, just have a look underneath and at the top to ensure there are no oil leaks. If you don't see any, turn the vehicle off.

21. Reinstall the nut you removed from the AC line anchors.

22. Reinstall the plastic wheel well shield.

23. Put the tires back on and tighten the lugs.

24. Lower the vehicle and torque the lugs to specs.

25. Replace the engine cover.

26. Go for a test drive around the block and then check the banjo bolts for leaks again. If no leaks, you're all good.

Reviving this old thread. My 2007 rav4 V6 limited had the line changed on 2010, I just checked and appears to have the metal and rubber hose.
I wanted to hear from the people that got it replace with the all rubber or the metal/rubber like mine. Is everything ok with them, you did not have any problems? I am debating weather i should change this or not. I am leaning towards No, but i thought i would ask. I was planning to keep this car for about 4 - 5 more years and its got 226,000 km (140,500 miles).

If I were in your shoes, I would definitely replace the rubber oil line with the all-metal line, which is what Toyota should have done in the first place. Unless you want to worry about that oil line bursting at any time within the next 4-5 years.

Help RAV4World members help you by providing your car's operating location in your profile page. Climate can cause a RAV4 in Dallas Wisconsin to experience a different set of issues when compared to the same model in Dallas Texas.
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