Thank goodness for the mini-explosion in craft made, small-batch jerky. A lot of what you can buy at supermarkets and big box stores is really nasty stuff, loaded with preservatives, salted to death and packed with flavorings that seem intended to overpower (or disguise) the ordinary-quality meat.

Seems crazy that nobody from those big companies asked themselves, What if we started with good meats, and let the quality of the ingredients shine? Couldn't we charge more for our product? Certainly Lawless Jerky isn't the first to answer these questions, but their story is worth telling.

First, what about the name? Turns out the dude who owns the company is an attorney whose passion leans more toward jerky than the law. Second, what about the quality? Well, Lawless uses only grass-fed, pastured Australian beef that even the Humane Society approves of. It's tender because of a proprietary combination of dry and wet aging they claim is only employed by them. They also use no artificial ingredients or preservatives, except for the tiny bit that is contained in the siracha sauce they use as an ingredient.

Most importantly, Lawless focuses on flavors that enhance and bring out the flavor of their meats, rather than overpowering it. All of the flavors are savory combinations of sweet and spice and heat that we think are pretty darn delightful—and which also make a great pre-cigar snack, or pairing with craft beers, wines and even some spirits. We tasted them on their own to get the full experience.

Our favorite? Pho. Yep, you heard that right. Lawless makes a Pho flavor variety inspired by the ingredients in one of our favorite Vietnamese noodle soups. It sounds gimmicky, we know. But Lawless doesn't try and make it taste like soup. Instead, they focused on which traditional pho ingredients would enhance the flavor. In this case, it's a delicious melange of cilantro, mint, basil, ginger, garlic, star anise, onion, cloves, lemongrass, cinnamon and jalapeño pepper.

People accustomed to more traditional jerky flavors will likely find the Aloha Teriyaki variety most appealing, and it's a revelation. It has none of the cloying, sticky-sweetness of gas station jerky. The pieces are even studded with sesame seeds that add a toasty, nutty counterpoint to the garlic and ginger. Make no mistake, across all varieties, the flavors are subtle and never overpowering. Even if a specific flavor doesn't sound appealing, you might be surprised.

Unfortunately, the Paleo Pepper flavor was unavailable when we placed our order. But we will be sure to check back soon, because this combination of exotic white and black pepper varieties with a touch of agave nectar sounds absolutely delicious.

We saved the best for last: the meat itself. This jerky isn't beaten and battered into a tough sinewy mess. The flavor, the texture and the chew are all excellent and retain the character and flavor of good cuts of beef.

Nutritionally, this stuff is relatively low in fat and salt—especially when compared with convenience store junk. We certainly wouldn't hesitate to pop open a bag as a satisfying substitute for a sit-down lunch. It's not even messy, completely devoid of that oil slick of artificial garbage left on your fingers after eating mass produced stuff.

Here's the kicker: it's not expensive. At $7 per 2-ounce bag, plus flat rate $5 shipping regardless of whether you order one bag or 100, we think the price is right in line with the excellent quality. This is some of the best jerky we've ever tried.