Thanks guys!@ Darren. As for the lifting hooks eyelets Thats where I tought they went but can not find any pics to confirm there presence...I know I've seen some but can't find the photo I'm looking for Is someone here think it is not apropriate to have those eyelet on the lifting hooks? Because I'll go with Darren here(and my memory). I've already rebored the lifting hooks to the right diameter.

@ Alex. You say that there is only 6 lifting hooks on this particular model, could you tell me(us) where they are?

Thank you for the educational comments gents, this is much apreciated.

Well, Trumpeter got them pretty much correct except the two in the most rear. They will appear only on KV-1s. But that one will have different engine deck altogether.The red arrow show the lifting rings on the left side. the other side is similar.

That IS an interesting question! Was there an hinge on the last plate of the engine bay? Or since it was smaller they only used two hooks? I think we need someone who speak russian Cause the book is kind of hard to read...when like me you dont know russian. I really should have not hesitate when I had the opportunity to take a russian class at university .

hi, your KV looking very good, i wish i had taken time to replace mesh screens on mine! too late now i'm building the trumpeter KV1with light cast turret 1942. overall a very good kit when considering the price. looking forward to seeing your completed kit. keep up the good work. Kevin.

Philippe this is a very nice build. Interesting subject. Picking up ideas from you for a small turret version i have of this kit. Dont worry about the track links, just use as many as you have so that they look good. In reality on older tanks that used torsion bars, they usually had one or two (rare cases though having two), more track links on one side for the reason Jesse already said. For the rear plate issue there is a posibility that it could be raised in a vertical way with the one side securing under the fixed top hull plate. I have seen that in some cases, although i dont know if this was the case with the KV. Anyway i like the job you've done so far. Keep it up!

Thanks a lot John!I've checked with Mr. Stokes and here what he have to say about the lifting hooks on this particular model.

``The bolt configuration on the engine compartment and transmission compartment roof plates is correct, with eleven equally spaced bolts across the rear edge of the engine compartment roof plate, and the same number on the front and rear edges of the transmission compartment roof plate. The bolts have the correct conical heads for a July 1941 vehicle. The lifting eyes are present and of the correct shape, including those beneath the turret bustle. However, Trumpeter includes four lifting eyes on the transmission compartment roof plate, rather than the correct two. Omit the two lifting eyes in the rear corners of the plate, and fill their locating holes.``

So with the cross refernce in mind, I did just that!Now it is time to move on to another matter.

I've finished the tracks (fenders are just snaped on do not worry)Just like the right side left side have what looks like 1/2 track too manny and since there is no way to adjust tension... i'm screwed. any tips on how I could move the iddler wheel 2 mil.?

After what Alex showed me and what I've read on Neil Stokes's 4bo I've taken care of the two lifting hooks at the rear.

No explaination needed I think...cut'n'putt.

I've also added the wire on the front lamp wich I've glued on the glass...Have I seen one not busted on the battlefield?...not sure mehhh Looks nice.

Now I'm moving on to the fenders wich will have some battle damage and have one pe box on, or three if I receive my tools some day!

I did this on one of my KV's. You could clip the idler adjusting rod behind the idler, it really won't show. Then try to soften up the main idler attachment point with some cement, just enough so that you can rotate the idler forward some.

If you want to adjust the tensioner on the front idler cut the bar and remove, then glue the idler mount in the desired position after which use some plastic stock or metal bar of the correct size and drill out the slide and position the new adjuster bar.

Those rings are a small detail but look good when added and explain what the lifting points are for. Regarding the damaged fender are you going to put damaged hangers to tell the story of why that portion is missing?