New in Tibet: Crowds

LHASA, China -- For travelers to Tibet's capital, the biggest problem used to be altitude sickness. Now, add another: being turned away from its major attraction, the Potala Palace, the focal point of Tibetan Buddhism. Those who haven't beat the crowd to make it through the massive red doors by mid-morning usually won't get in.

Since China launched the first train into Tibet, in July, there's been a rush to the roof of the world. Tourists are being drawn here partly on the belief that modernization is about to sweep aside...