Burchey wrote:I would swear you said the other day that you hadn't done it in a push.

Ah, what I said is the last time I did it some 12 years ago, we missed doing it in "A Day" by just under two hours. We got held up at the Roof for three hours by two other parties.The year prior we missed it by two and half hours. Big ass jam up at Boot Flake/King SwingThey were both done in a "single push" but not legally in "A Day".Yes, most.And the old very old song:"Burchey who doesn't do crags. Only the Gym and Sierra Moderates at 13k'."Thus, why should anyone, let alone me, "trust" or believe anything you post.

I see, I stand corrected. My memory isn't quite what it used to be, but I strangely believe you. That's a bummer you got held up, but I'd imagine that's often the case on the big walls. I'll tell you one thing I always nail, though. The difference between Mount Humpreys and North Pal. Everytime. I nail it.

BTW Rick - see how that works?

It's called "admitting when you're wrong". It feels good, actually. You're always sharing good climbing texts or reads with us. I found one that might do you some good as well. No troll - I don't know that I've ever seen you admit being wrong online.

I like this song of yours ( I think it goes G C7 Amin on the chord side of thangs), but I'm afraid you're already obsessing about something I said with what I typically climb. I guess 1-3 pitch climbs at J-tree, or 4-8 pitch routes at Taquitz would count towards cragging. You know me - can't ever get those darn definetitions right. I don't get to do that as often as I'd like, free weekends are usually spent climbing a mountain. I prefer that. You should SEE the traderoutes we've got lined up for this season. We'll be heading over to do your climb as well, the 10"c" route you put up. It looked really, really fun and in a beautiful location. Luckily we saved the topo before everything got tossed. Vitaliy is suggesting I go try bigwall stuff as well, and I look forward to your attempts to dissect any success I have there as well. You're the best, man!

Unrelated - took the little bro to a trampoline park this evening. Some other kid snapped his leg like a twig, the sound was unreal.

Kahuna wrote:The year prior we missed it by two and half hours. Big ass jam up at Boot Flake/King Swing

They were both done in a "single push" but not legally in "A Day".

Damn, that's a bummer. We also missed doing it 'in a day.' But to be honest we didn't really expect to. Wanted to have a big challenge, and I am really happy we didn't find excuses to put it off till we are better climbers/know our shit more. I learned a lot, and was happy that we didn't even fight about things under big stress. Top part of it was like a waterfall, especially changing corners. From here we can only improve and I am pretty damn happy with this year so far. Topped out 4 walls (Lurking Fear, Nose twice, and SW face of Liberty Cap), before the wall season even really started for most! Rick, respect to you for doing it in over 24 hours. I think that's lot more work than doing it in 18 or less (know from own experience lol). Being on the move for so long kicks your ass..

Vitaliy M. wrote:Rick, respect to you for doing it in over 24 hours. I think that's lot more work than doing it in 18 or less (know from own experience lol). Being on the move for so long kicks your ass..

The hardest part of them two attempts was waiting on the jam ups. As you know VM, those are the two critical locations that any kind of traffic jam can not be over come. The King Swing and the Roof.

On our first attempt to do it in "A Day", we almost rapped down to Jardine's cross over from the the top of the Boot and thought about stick clipping the bolts. But as we prepped to rap, we saw two other crews coming up and were just about to the anchors of both T-Flake and ECT. We were pissed to say the least. And kicked ourselves in the ass for even thinking we could get on the route and succeed with two or three crews on the ECT and T-Flake. Oh well.

All those that I know that have climbed through in a "Day" say they were all ultra lucky to only find one or two crews on the route on passable locations. That indeed is the key to doing it these days in a day.

Good on you for giving it a shot. Two run ups on the Nose in a season without a jam up is good luck to say the least.

Three 5 ***** routes that you all need to do soon where you WILL NOT find any others on, are the following:

Wyoming Sheep RanchThe Shortest StrawTen Days After

Then, after completing those three, do the following ultimate Classic "Valley" Test Piece Wall Routes of all IMO:

Kahuna wrote:The year prior we missed it by two and half hours. Big ass jam up at Boot Flake/King Swing

They were both done in a "single push" but not legally in "A Day".

Damn, that's a bummer. We also missed doing it 'in a day.' But to be honest we didn't really expect to. Wanted to have a big challenge, and I am really happy we didn't find excuses to put it off till we are better climbers/know our shit more. I learned a lot, and was happy that we didn't even fight about things under big stress. Top part of it was like a waterfall, especially changing corners. From here we can only improve and I am pretty damn happy with this year so far. Topped out 4 walls (Lurking Fear, Nose twice, and SW face of Liberty Cap), before the wall season even really started for most! Rick, respect to you for doing it in over 24 hours. I think that's lot more work than doing it in 18 or less (know from own experience lol). Being on the move for so long kicks your ass..

Camelback strongly advises people to NOT put Geritol in their hydration bladders..... Chief just ran out of gas. Cut him some slack.....

Vitaliy M. wrote:Rick, respect to you for doing it in over 24 hours. I think that's lot more work than doing it in 18 or less (know from own experience lol). Being on the move for so long kicks your ass..

The hardest part of them two attempts was waiting on the jam ups. As you know VM, those are the two critical locations that any kind of traffic jam can not be over come. The King Swing and the Roof.

On our first attempt to do it in "A Day", we almost rapped down to Jardine's cross over from the the top of the Boot and thought about stick clipping the bolts. But as we prepped to rap, we saw two other crews coming up and were just about to the anchors of both T-Flake and ECT. We were pissed to say the least. And kicked ourselves in the ass for even thinking we could get on the route and succeed with two or three crews on the ECT and T-Flake. Oh well.

All those that I know that have climbed through in a "Day" say they were all ultra lucky to only find one or two crews on the route on passable locations. That indeed is the key to doing it these days in a day.

Good on you for giving it a shot. Two run ups on the Nose in a season without a jam up is good luck to say the least.

Three 5 ***** routes that you all need to do soon where you WILL NOT find any others on, are the following:

Wyoming Sheep RanchThe Shortest StrawTen Days After

Then, after completing those three, do the following ultimate Classic "Valley" Test Piece Wall Routes of all IMO:

Yeah impossible to pass people on King Swing and the Great roof, unless they let you go before them. There was one party we waited for minimal time at the King Swing but they were really fast. They passed us on Dolt, and did do it IAD.

I think the trick is doing it in early season. On our first trip, upper pitches weren't even that wet. This time it was horrible.

Out of those routes you mentioned Sunkist is on my short list. Seems like no one climbs that thing almost, and it is supposed to be stellar. Aside from that Salathe, The Shield, and Wet Denim Daydream. To be honest, I am not super into aid climbing. Lines like the Shield/Sunkist are incredible for their location, and I really want to do it, as clean as I can. But mostly I would want to get on walls that have some interesting free climbing. For example SW face of Liberty Cap was awesome, Nose was also great since it has lots of free. Want to do Watkins and Half Dome for that reason too.

I mean, aid climbing is fun, but different. There is a lot of hard work involved and it is not as lame as I thought it was. I took my first 30 and 40 footers aid climbing. Not sure if it's a good thing. Maybe I will be less of a pussy free climbing.