GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

Comments

I have read so many conflicting threads on this for such a simple idea. Even the 3 dealers I have talked to don't have an idea. I am still wanting to make the corrections for the 265-70-17 Denali wheels I put on my 2001 Yukon in place of the 265-70-16 stock sizes. What do you mean the tech 2 will register on the link but not actually reprogram?

It does work! Itold you that's how I did mine, a guy did it in the parking lot at the GM plant I work at. It took10 minutes, and it is right on the money. I have paced a few cars with digital speedos and they all match mine. The changes have to be saved form the Tech 2 into the memory of the trucks computer, if not the change will not take. It clearly askes you if the tire size is correct, answer yes/no, and it will or won't change the settings. You do the change under the TIRE SIZE CALIBRATION menu. The menu title alone tells you that the tool can do it.

Here is a little help to make sure you really need to re adjust your speedo, it explains how to figure out tire sizes and compare them to each other.

Do you mean that if I bought the power programmer to use on my Yukon XL I can't use it on my Silverado, with the same engine? It actually stores the vin and will only work in that vehicle?! If so it's kind of a rip off in my opinion.

"It does work! Itold you that's how I did mine, a guy did it in the parking lot at the GM plant?"

A guy in the parking lot? How big was this machine. My dealers tech 2 is connected to a pretty large computer.

Yea the HPIII wouldnt be good for your silverado. Only way it would work is if you set all the settings on the XL back to stock. Then you could use it on the rado but the XL would have any of the programs anymore.

I am picking up my new 01 1/2 Ton 4x4 LT on Saturday that I ordered end of March. I wanted to buy the CD changer shown in back of the Suburban catalog from my dealer to add to the truck when I pick it up. The dealer discouraged me telling me that other customers have not been happy with this changer. The recommended I got to a stereo place and have one installed. This is a small family run dealership so I respect their opinion but I am curious what experience other Suburban owners have had with the GM CD changer. I would really like to get it since it looks like it has been engineered to work with the stereo and fit into the center console.

Just picked up my GMC Sierra C3 a couple weeks ago. Really love the truck, but I have two issues that neither my dealer, or any C3 owners I've found (at www.pickuptruck.com forums) have seen. The C3 is basically a Denali pickup, so perhaps you've seen these issues and can let me know what the fix was.

The first is the steering wheel mounted stereo controls. The mute button doesn't work. Press it, and the radio/cd/cassette is muted, but only for a couple seconds, then it comes back.

The second has to do with the lumbar support. Mine seems to pump itself up all the time. For me, the most comfortable seating position is with the lumbar and side bolsters completely deflated. But every time I get in the truck, I have to deflate them again.

Did the Tech 2 also correct the transmission shifting points? I am switching from the factory 265-70-16 to the Denali wheels 265-70-17. Someone told me that the Denali size is not programed into the tech 2, that I should go with a 265-75-16 which is programed in the tech 2 and is less that 1/2 of 1% different. Comments and any further details that I can print out and give to my service rep to read. Your help is greatly appreciated. Bob

If the computer adjusts by 1/4 inch increments, I'm confused. Presumably that is 1/4 inch in diameter. My YXL came with either Steeltex R4S or A/T depending on if you wanted off road tires. Either set is 245/75/16 and dealer said no change to system regardless of which tire you get. Diameter new is 30.4 for the R4S and 30.6 for the A/T -- 1/5 an inch difference. Since the tread depth is 14/32 on the R4S and 16/32 on the A/T, when worn out, both tires are the same diameter -- 29.65. Take the off road A/T's for instance, the margin of difference will be from 30.6 to 29.65 over the life of the tire, almost a full inch. Presumably if I change my tire size and the overall diameter difference is less than an inch, is there really a need to adjust the computer? It can't be that exact if the 245/75/16 tires from the factory are slightly different and the size changes almost an inch as the tires wear out. Am I way off base with this approach? I really don't plan on doing anything more than going up to 265's.

After supposedly installing reprogramming with the tech2 and then checking the computer programing on another dealers computer the read out on tire size showed that the new tire size was installed. (Stock 245/75 vs. new 265/75) The reason I claim that it did not really take is by checking the odometer over a known mileage check. The odometer was not correct until I used the hypertech reprograming. The set up requires that you carefully mark your tire then roll one turn and measure the distance then divide by 3.1416 to obtain the true diameter which is input into the program in 1/4" selections. A 1 inch diff.in circumferance of a tire with aprox. 8foot cir. would make a differance of 55 feet in one mile.

Though the cold air is probably not a problem for those with the Auto Htr/AC controls now it will be come below 50 degree weather. Your dealer does supposedly have a supplement fix for this problem now. My fix was arbitration and GM buy-back. They paid me 2 May and am now proud owner of a Toyota Sequoia.

Just bought a new 2001 Suburban 4WD LS with several other options of which the Premium Ride Suspension is one. Does anyone have any idea what the make up of the suspension is vs the standard suspension. I assume the shock absorbers are part of the mix; any other differences?

Have ordered a copy of GMT01CK8 Shop Manuals. If no one answers you in the next ten days I will be glad to research this for you. Will look for a simple way to defeat the automatic lumbar support inflation. I`ll watch this area since someone may post an answer in the next day or ten.Helm advises my four volumes is in shipping dept. now. My guess is 6 to 10 days deliver time.

It took the hypertech programmer to get the odometer correct; mph difference between 245's and 265's is small enough that you won't see much differance on the speedo even at 75mph, thats less than 3mph.

A 1/4" diameter tire change is definitely noticeable in the speedo/odo. As Ryan said -- If you're outside the range of what GM supplied as stock, you'll need something like the HP-III to calibrate correctly. Also helps for fine tuning between tire brands.-- Don

I understand a 1/4 inch tire change may be noticeable, but my point is that it has to be something GM planned for in its programming. The tires that came with my truck have 16/32 of tread when new. Presumably when the truck was assembled the computer was set for the tires that came from the factory. As I wear these tires down (which is happening quite quickly) I will wear nearly a half inch off the tread depth before they are worn out. As I approach that worn out stage, I will have worn over 3/4 of an inch off the tire diameter. If a 1/4 inch difference is a reason to recalibrate, shouldn't the computer be recalibrated every 10k miles or so to adjust for the tire wear? Or, if GM expects there to be a 3/4 inch diameter change over the lifetime of the tire, then why should I get overly worried about going from an OEM tire with a 30.6 diameter (Firestone Steeltex A/T 245/75/16) to one with a 31.3 (B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain T/A 275/70/16)? I am not so concerned about the speedo or odometer as I can deal with that, I am more concerned with the ABS or any other "safety" related parameter.

I have visited this area several times since I started looking for a new minivan or SUV, and have found good info here. Now I would like to give back a little. I live in northern VA and just bought a LT with autoride.

In northern VA just about everyone is selling for about invoice. I telephone interviewed 12 dealers: 5 were unresponsive or thought unreliable for one reason or another, and the other 7, with some work, were from invoice to invoice + 200. Yukon XLs seem to run a bit higher, but I did investigated them as thoroughly.

The out the door price includes more than invoice, and some dealers played games with what invoice means. The invoice separately states the vehicle total (model+trim+acc, which of course you can calculate on your own), the cooperative advertisement fee, and the delivery freight charge. Line 310 of the invoice includes freight and coop advertising. Coop advertising is 1% of MSRP less freight so its about $400. Freight is $765 here. One dealer quoted a price of "invoice less $1000" plus freight, taxes, documentation, but used the 310 line for "invoice," thereby charging twice for freight. That and a very high doc fee, in addition to purposeful deception, erased any advantage.

In the numbers above I used the line 310 definition of invoice. In addition to that, doc fees are added (range 89 to 290, reasonable amount seems to be 150) and tag charges (about $49, which you can do on your own). Some try to stick you with "business license tax" - about $60.

Anyway, it's all negotiable, and it's out the door price (line 310 amount + docs + anything else) that matters. Around here I found that an out the out the door price of invoice (line 310) + $200 for EVERYTHING excluding sales tax, is clearly attainable.

In addition, as others here have mention, GM gives a $1000 rebate for former owners. Also $400 grad discount -- maybe some others.

By the way, the line 310 amount of the invoice is not the dealer cost, and the 3% holdback is not all the dealer earns on a car. Read the notes on the invoice. So, don't get caught up in the empathy play some dealers use - I'm only earning $200 on this car, salesman needs to get a commission, etc.

Interestingly, I looked into the BBB record of the dealers and found good correlation between BBB rating the dealer's level of dealing straight.

I just purchased a Suburban 4WD, and want to add skid plates -- did not find a vehicle with that option and all the others I wanted. Does anyone have info on this -- aftermarket vendor, pricing, is the vehicle pre-drilled, how many plates are there? When I spoke to the dealer, it seemed extremely expensive - $500-700 - relative to the option price. Any help appreciated,Vix

I just bought a Suburban, and am having lots of fun trying to figure everything out. One thing I noticed, the oil pressure gauge indicates about 60 to 70 psi when driving, about 45 when idling. It jumps around a bit when driving. I am used to a lower psi - any comments?I read somewhere that the middle seat head rests fold back when the middle seat is folded up for more cargo space. But the version I have does not seem to let the head rests fold back, and therefore requires one to move the front seats forward. Are the head rests supposed to fold back?

My eddie Bauer expedition lease just expired so I was dying for the truck. Talked the dealer into going and getting it off the train myself...literally..and driving it to the dealer (63 miles) so they could wash it, inspect it and redeliver it to me. Pre delivery inspection was not done, so takes these comments as interesting but not indicative of how the truck was really delivered AFTER the PDI done by the dealer. Probs--Steering wheel turned off center to the left, play in steering of one inch; RR door wouldnt unlock or open from inside or out; compass/temp buttons on mirror were hooked together and did the identical thing instead of their discrete functions; cassette player on invoice with upgraded radio--but the cassette player not there; But what a truck!! Great smooth ride, much smoother than my 99 expedition 4x4.....quiet as a mouse. Gorgeous inside. I couldnt be happier....even if I got to see some things the mexican assembly folks screwed up that i wasnt supposed to see.