Most of the thirteen refugios, or mountain shelters, near the town of El Bolsón are at least a four-hour hike from the nearest road—but steps from Patagonian stunners like, here, the Teno Stream, fed by the Hielo Azul (Blue Ice) Glacier.

The Hielo Azul Glacier is a tough two-hour

climb up a rocky track from its namesake refugio, but the reward . . .

Less-experienced trekkers may want to hire a guide like the Hielo Azul refugio’s Marcos to tackle the more difficult trails.

The region is dotted with pristine turquoise lakes such as Natación, whose refugio lacks hot water but comes with an even better amenity: kayaks for exploring the lenga-encircled shoreline.

The first glimpse of Hielo Azul, a refugio nestled below seven-thousand-foot Barda Negra Mountain, is like “some Alpine mirage,” says the author. The golden rule here and at other refugios: Leave everything as you found it.

At the eco-retreat La Confluencia, on six hundred acres outside El Bolsón, the beef—like all the food—is homegrown. With its spa and yoga studio, the lodge is a good spot to unwind after completing the refugio circuit.

Most provisions are carried to the refugios by horse. With some advance planning, they’ll carry you too.

Breakfast at the refugios almost always includes homemade breads and jams. At dinner, simple, hearty fare is washed down with home-brewed beer.

Refugios are all about communal spirit—pull up a bench or a log at the Hielo Azul refugio and have a chat.

Once the snows melt, one of the highlights of a trip to the region is walking into caves formed by the Hielo Azul Glacier and viewing the astonishing dark-blue fissures up close.

In high season, the easy-to-reach refugio Cajón del Azul is party central, with as many as 150 people filling the shelter and pitching tents on the grounds.

Pizza, pasta, and even sausage-based stews are available at most refugios, so you don’t have to carry your own food on the trail—but you will have to do your dishes. Here, Hielo Azul’s kitchen.

One of the most popular hikes from the El Retamal refugio is a forty-five-minute trek culminating in a sweeping view of the valley.