But how's the actual experience of it? I stopped by in a gearing-up-for-Morandi mood and frame of mind, and on this visit — and do I emphasize it was just one visit — I didn't have such a wonderful time at all...Inexcusable risotto. I mean bad. Really bad.

Not a wonderful time AT ALL? Them's fightin' words, Commodore Bruni. And pursuant to Article 2 Paragraph 4 of the Gawker Media LLC-Balthazar Non-Aggression Treaty of 2006, (signed over a nice Pouilly Fuiss
and steak frites), we have no choice to take this as a belligerent act of aggression against Gawker.

Don't you know, FB, that 90% of Gawker's wheeling-and-dealing happens on those chairs you deride as spindly? Or that without the Balthazar bread basket, Denton deflates like a leaky bouncy castle, taking hordes of screaming kids with him?—Josh