Brown suede and leather dominated Sophia Kokosalaki's runway set against the skyline of Manhattan

Sophia Kokosalaki’s latest outing for Diesel Black Gold, the denim label’s premier line, was launched in style on Pier 42. As the first model walked down the catwalk, synchronised curtains dropped from the massive windows besides her, revealing a magnificent skyline view of Manhattan. Diesel Black Gold is about more than just jeans. Rather, Kokosalaki’s two favourite fabrics, at least for her S/S11 collection, seemed to be suede and leather in brown and beige tones.

High-waisted trousers with a slight flare, shirt jackets and skirts came out in a dusty and vintage looking way. Some pieces even had frayed hemlines and sleeves to hammer home the point. Feather details in leather made some looks Pocahontas-esque, and creased trousers, abstract floral prints and hardened leather trousers continued the ‘back to nature’ theme.

Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?

Sophia Kokosalaki: I was looking towards the arts and craft movements of the late 60s and early 70s.

DD: It was more about leather than denim this time around!

Sophia Kokosalaki: Yes, but leather is central to Diesel’s DNA and I love the fabric and have been using it for myself for years. This was an opportunity to explore and have fun with it.

DD: What was the process behind the leather?

Sophia Kokosalaki: To get that artisanal look we used desert tones and hand painted the leather. It’s always easy to get primary colours when buying denim, like red, blue, and yellow. So we added dusty pinks, greys, browns and beige shades.