Since the original release of the Boundless Knit Dress, we have seen many requests how to make it a racer back tank dress. With the recent release of the Boho Babydoll (which includes a racer back option), we thought it would be the perfect mashup. So, I’m here to show you how to mash and grade the two bodices to create a racer back Boundless Dress. This will also work with the Essential Tank if you prefer the shape of the racer on that tank.

The Boundless and Boho have different amounts of ease. (read more about ease HERE.) The Boundless is a fitted bodice with negative ease, while the Boho is a relaxed cut top with ease so we can’t really just take the Boho and adjust the width to the boundless, otherwise the armscye would be too wide and cut in across the shoulder since the overall size of the bodice is wider/larger. The Boundless is shown here in the green dashed lines and the Boho is the light purple.

Print out both the boundless knit dress and Boho babydoll bodices and align at the shoulder seam. We will be creating a new Boundless bodice. You can choose which neckline you prefer as the only modification we are making here is to the armscye.

Trace the upper portion of the armscye from the shoulder seam of the Boho Babydoll. Trace the lower portion of the armscye of the Boundless toward the side seam.

Using a French curve, blend the upper and lower portion of the armscye previously traced.

Continue tracing the Boundless along the side seam and neckline. Note- if using a 1/2″ seam allowance, you will want to widen the shoulder by 1/4″. You can also trace as is and just use a 1/4″ seam allowance along the shoulder seam only.

You now have a new Boundless front racer Boundless bodice.

We will repeat similar steps for the back

Print out both the boundless knit dress and Boho babydoll bodices and align at the shoulder seam. We will be creating a new Boundless back bodice.

Trace the Boho bodice from neckline, shoulder seam and top portion of the racer back armscye. Note- if using a 1/2″ seam allowance, you will want to widen the shoulder by 1/4″. You can also trace as is and just use a 1/4″ seam allowance along the shoulder seam only.

Slide the Boho bodice so that it is aligned with the Boundless at the armscye and trace the lower portion of the racer back armscye to the side seam of the Boundless bodice.

Use a French curve if need to match and blend the racer back curve and continue tracing the Boundless bodice. You now have a new Boundless back bodice.

Construction of the bodice/dress is the same as the Boundless. Cut 2 main and cut 2 lining pieces and use the burrito roll method to create a fully lined racer back.

As you’ve seen, the Boundless dress got an update and we released the highly requested, youth version. We couldn’t let this double event go by without showing you some easy hacks.

…..

Neckband

If you like the unlined option but prefer to not hem the neckline you can easily add a neckband like we have in most of our patterns.

Simply sew the dress as instructed and then grab a measuring tape to establish the neck opening. The opening will vary depending on the size and options you made (low front/back, high front/back or low front/high back)

The neckband will be 85% of the neck opening plus seam allowance. For example, if the neck opening is 34″ then the neckband needs to be 34″x0.85 + 1″ which is 30″. You will cut one neckband 2″ by 30″.

NL X 0.85 +1 = NB

*NL – neckline opening

*NB – neckband length

Sew the neckband right sides together at the short ends to create a loop. Press the neckband in half lengthwise and mark its quarters. Mark the quarters of the neck opening. Matching the neckband and opening quarter marks, pin and sew the neckband in place with 1/2″ seam allowance.

Note: adding a neckband will yield a neckline 1/2″ higher than the intended pattern look.

Before you get started take a look over our Neckbands 101 blog which also includes helpful videos.

TIP: If you would like your Boundless dress to still be reversible (front and back) place the neckband seam on the side shoulder.

…..

Boundless/Sweetheart mash

Looking for a quick and easy way to avoid the gathers on the Boundless? Or are you looking to create the perfect twirly dress? The Boundless mashes perfectly with skirt from the Sweetheart and can help to create either of this looks! If you have little ones, you can also use these same steps to pair the Boundless Youth with the Me Hearties.

Cutting Pieces:

You will need to cut out your Boundless bodice pieces as directed and based off of the options you choose. For mine, I used the lined version with the low neckline and 3/4 sleeves. For the skirt, you will need to have the skirt from the Sweetheart printed and then choose your length. I used the mini length.

Assembly:

Assemble your Boundless bodice as directed. You will then need to mark the quarter points on both the bodice and the skirt.

With RST, match the quarter points and attach your skirt with your serger or stretch stitch. (Note: You may wish to place elastic in the waist to help give your skirt additional support.)

Hem the skirt and sleeves and you’re all finished!

~Erinn,

…..

Back ties

The next hack we have for you is super easy back ties. I love this hack for the linedlow back option but you can certainly apply it to the high neckline cut.

Print the pattern as instructed. Cut two trips of fabric, 3″ by 18″. You will be changing this measurements if you’re sewing a youth Boundless or if you prefer your ties narrower/wider or shorter/longer.

Fold the ties right sides together length wise and sew the edge with a 1/2 seam allowance leaving one of the ends open. Turn the ties inside out and press them. Optionally, you can top stitch.

Take the back piece of the bodice and pin the open edge of one strap 2″ down from the shoulder as shown below. Repeat with the other side. Sew them in place.

That’s it! All you have to do now is sew the bodice as per the tutorial making sure you do not catch the ties.

Get creative! Using the Cross My Heart Cami straps as inspiration you can add some really fun accents to the back or the front of the Boundless dress.

…..

Ruffles maxi

Add a little boho spirit to the maxi with this simple hack!

You will need a little extra yardage than the required maxi. You will cut your skirt to the “below knee length” for youth (for adult I’d suggest either knee or tea depending on how deep you’d like your bottom ruffle).

To cut your ruffle you’ll take the “maxi length” and minus the “below knee length”- add 1/2″ for seam allowance- this is your length measurement. Width will be double the width of the skirt measurement normally for that size.

Sew up your dress exactly per the tutorial until you get to the bottom hem. Instead of hemming, we will add the ruffle. Gather the top of the ruffle using your favorite gathering method. I used a rayon spandex, which tends to stretch out vertically easily- so I used the double rows of basting method to avoid adding any extra weight to the skirt bottom.

Following the popular boho look- I just overlapped the top of my ruffle to the bottom skirt hem leaving the exposed raw edge. I stitched the ruffle on top the skirt between my two basted rows with a stretch stitch. Removed the basted stitches and gave it a press. I didn’t hem bottom edge just to match the raw edge on the ruffle (but that is just personal preference). I also added some fun trim along the gathered stitch line for some extra pizzazz 😉

My daughter just LOVES this dress! I think it might top her favorite dress I’ve ever made her so far in fact! I guess she’s a little boho baby girl, she also wants to wear this hat for every photoshoot now 😉

…..

Crop Top

Crop tops seems to never really go out of style and we’ve seen some requests for it lately. The Boundless bodice already has a natural waist cutline so is a great base to create a simple crop top. Sew up the bodice as you would in the tutorial but instead of adding the skirt, just hem the bottom edge 1/2″. If you chose to line the bodice, you can hem the main and lining towards one another, like the lined sleeve option in the tutorial. I chose a scalloped edge lace as my outer layer, so only hemmed my lining.

For my skirt, I used the waistband measurements from our Sweetheart SAL HERE and used the natural waist skirt option of the Boundless. I did have to shorten the skirt a couple of inches to account for the added waistband but gathered and constructed per the pattern. Instead of attaching to the bodice, just attach the skirt to the waistband. Super simple right?!

We hope you all enjoy the updated Boundless Knit Dress and newly released youth Boundless as much as we do. Be sure to share your makes in the P4P Facebook Group!

Hello, pirates! Today I wanted to talk to you about gathering and show you 4 of the easiest gathering methods that do not require investing in new gadgets or feet for your machines. All the methods I’m showing are applicable to both woven and knits.

Gathering with your serger

My favorite method of gathering is using my serger and its deferential feed. You will be switching your differential feed to the highest setting possible (in my case 2.0) and tightening the tension of your left needle. It is very important to test your new settings on a piece of fabric that is the same as the fabric you intend to gather. You will be able to see if you need to loosen the needle tension, tighten it or fidget with the right needle too.

For more tips and details watch the video below.

Gathering with two rows of basting stitches

The most popular method of gathering, and the one most often used in our patterns (Judy’s favorite) is gathering with two parallel rows of stitching. This method uses your sewing machine.

Note: your first row of gathering stitches should be about 1/4″ away from the edge and your second one 5/8″ away.

Tip: For the basting stitches, use a different color thread than the fabric do you can remove it easily.

Gathering with elastic

The next gathering method I wanted to show you is one that uses elastic, clear elastic or knit elastic. Avoid using no roll elastic! Also, make sure to exercise (stretching it a few times) before cutting.

Start by measuring the opening of the bodice and cut a pieces of elastic that matches the opening. Don’t forget to add seam allowance.

Note: I used 1/4″ knit elastic. This method works beautifully with clear elastic.

Sew the elastic in a loop and mark its quarters. Follow the method as in the video below.

Gathering with yarn or floss

The last method I wanted to show you is commonly known as gathering with floss. You will simply sew a wide zig zag stitch over a floss or yarn and simply pull the ends to gather. Super easy!

Tip: if you’re using yarn, use thin yarn and preferably a color different than the fabric you’re gathering so you can easily pull it out.

There you have it, 4 easy gathering methods that will help you achieve beautiful, even gathers for your skirts and ruffles. No matter which method you use it’s important to hit the seam with a nice hot iron and steam (as much as your fabric type will handle), this will help if you accidentally stretched the bodice at all while attaching as well as set those gathers nicely. Now go sew a Boundless or a Sunshine dress and show off your new gathering skills.

LINED JACKET

Ahoy pirates! Today on the blog I wanted to show you how to shorten different style zippers. With the new Go-To Jacket patterns releasing, you will be playing around with various size zippers so I find that it’s easier to just stock up on longer zippers (30-36″) and then shorten them based on your needs.

*Plastic separating zippers

Let’s talk about plastic separating zippers first. They are my favorite zipper style for kids and women casual wear. And shortening them is a peace of cake. There’s no need for any fancy tool or muscles 😉

Simply grab a pair of scissors that you do NOT use to cut fabric, a measuring tape and a lighter. Measure the length of the zipper you need for your jacket, mark it on both sides of the separating zipper. Move the zipper pull down and cut the desired length. Follow the instructions I give you in the video below to create a “zipper stop”.

Note: since you’re working with an open flame (if you don’t have a hot knife) please be extra cautious and avoid having your little ones “help out” 🙂

TIP: Always measure 3 times before cutting the zipper, just to be sure.

*Metal Separating Zippers

The other separating zipper you may use for hoodies or jackets is a metal zipper. Walmart always carries them so, on a pinch, it’s a good alternative for plastic zippers.

Shortening a metal zipper is more time consuming and it requires a little bit of elbow grease and more tools but it’s totally doable. Just grab those non fabric scissors, a measuring tape and some long nose pliers and watch the video below.

TIP: Mark on both sides of the zipper where the waistband meets the bodice, the pockets and the hood. This will make it a lot easier to make sure that everything matches when you zip up the jacket.

*All purpose zippers

If you are making a Wiggle dress and you need to shorten the all purpose zipper you are using you will only need your scissors, a measuring tape and some thread. Simply mark on the BOTTOM of the zipper (not the top as you did for separating zippers) where you would like for the zipper pull to stop.

Sew by hand a zipper stop at the mark you just made. Simply sew back on forth over the zipper teeth a few times. You can certainly use your sewing machine for this step but I find it easier to just hand sew the thread zipper stop. Cut the zipper 1″ below the thread zipper stop you just created and seal your zipper ribbon with a lighter. Optionally, remove the plastic teeth below the thread zipper stop. Tadah! You have shortened your AP zipper in minutes.

Now that you have shortening zippers all figured out, go and sew all the Go To Jackets and make sure to post them in the Patterns for Pirates group!

How adorable are the new Petite Pegs? So much cuteness in such a small package. If you haven’t downloaded your FREE copy, do that here. Today on the blog I wanted to show you how to add cuffs to the Petite pegs.

We will start by shortening the length of the Petite Pegs by 1″. To do that simply grab a ruler and draw a line 1 inch above the ankle cut line. This will be your new pegs ankle length. Cut the two mirrored legs using this new cut line.

You will now be cutting the cuffs. I did the math for you so just follow the cutting chart below. Remember to cut two cuffs, one for each leg.

*If you babywear a lot you might find it helpful to double the cuff length. This way the long cuff can be folded down over the heel. It’s a popular way to wear pants when you’re babywearing because otherwise the pant legs hike up and then the baby ankles stick out.

Sew the Petite Pegs as per the tutorial. Grab your little cuffs and fold them to create a memory hem. Press and steam.

Sew the cuffs to create a loop and fold them. Take a moment to look over the tips I gave you in the Knit Cuffs 101 blog. They will definitely come in handy when attaching these itty bitty cuffs to the little pegs.

Attach the cuffs to the leg opening with your serger or the sewing machine following a 1/2″ seam allowance. Make sure you match the cuffs’ side seams to the leggings inseam. Stretch the cuff to fit the leg opening.

When attaching the cuffs you can place your serger foot on the outside of the leg (as pictured above) or inside the leg (as pictured below). You will be working with a pretty small loop so go slow!

Tadah! There you have it, Petite Pegs with cuffs! I can’t wait to see your little creations!

Note: You may find it easier to attach the flat cuff to the leg instead of sewing the inseams and the cuff in a loop. You can certainly do that, you will be sewing the inseam after you attach the cuffs. You can read about some ways to finish your serger seam here.

Welcome to the day 5 of the P4P Henley sew along. Today’s steps include adding the neckband or the hood.

Crew Neckband

If you have done the solid front shirt (no placket) you will now be adding the neckband as in the pattern tutorial. For additional tip, check out our P4P University Neckbands 101 blog and videos here.

Henley Neckband

If your sew along choice was a Henley style shirt then you would now be adding the henley neckband. This neckband is not sewn in a loop like the crew neckband was. Take a moment to watch the video below. The most important thing to keep in mind when adding this neckband is to go very slow and baste!

Hood (with or without the placket)

The Henley patterns include a hood for the placket option. For this sew along we wanted to show you how easy it is to add a hood to the solid front option. The only pattern modifications you will need to make is to extend the front of the hood by 1/2″.

Sew the hood as per the pattern tutorial. Overlap the front neckline 1/2″ and baste in place.

Mark the quarter points of the hood and the neckline. Turn your shirt inside out and place the hood right sides together, matching the quarter points.

Sew or serge the hood to the neckline following a 1/2″ seam allowance. See how easy it was to add a hood to the plain front shirt?

We’re back and working on the sleeves today! We get quite a few posts in the main Facebook Group about having issues with the sleeve so I made a quick video about easing the sleeve to the bodice. I hope this helps!

If you’re doing a cuffed version, be sure to hop on over to our Knit Cuffs Blog Post for more tips. 🙂

Welcome back! So far, we’ve learned how to pick the perfect fabrics and get the perfect fit. Today, we are diving right in and cutting into your beautiful fabrics. We’re also sharing two new hacks so before you cut into your pretties, check them out first!

Is this your first time using one of our patterns? Check out our Pattern Markings 101 and Grainline blog posts for more tips about cutting out your fabric correctly. Now, on to the hacks…..

The Color Block Pieces should line up at the shoulder seam with the main body.

Transfer the faded line (shown in pink here) to your main body as this will be your new bottom color block. If you do not want to cut your main pattern piece you can also fold it along that line when you cut your fabric.

Cut 2 (mirror image) of the top color block. Follow the darker size line along the armscye.

Cut 1 Front on the fold along the line you transferred in the previous step.

Cut 1 Back on the fold along the line you transferred in the previous step.

With right sides together, and using a 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch top color block to front bodice.

With right sides together, and using a 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch top color block to back bodice.

Press seam allowance down and top-stitch. Repeat for the back.

Continue as instructed in your pattern.

Women’s Long Sleeve Tall Cuffs Hack

If you’ve been following in the main Facebook Group, a few weeks ago I hacked the Henley and upsized it for a more looser top! With that, I also did a longer cuff. It received lots of love, so we thought we’d make it easy on y’all and share the new cuff measurements. Cut your sleeve on the “Roll up” Cut line and use the measurements below for your cuffs. Construction is the same as the other cuff/band options. 🙂

We hope you love these hacks as much as we do! Check back tomorrow for more details on the Placket….. It’s really not as tricky as you think 😉

Today is all about prepping your pattern and fabric and making sure you get the best fit before you even cut a single fiber!

LET’S TALK FABRIC

The best part of the henley patterns is that they work with a huge array of fabrics. French Terry, sweater knit, thermal, interlock, rayon spandex, and single/double brushed poly-spandex are just to name a few. Check out our Knit 101 Blog post if you need more help with the fabric types.

Here are a few examples from our testers! And be on the lookout for the raglan shoulder color block hack later this week. 😉

Sweater Knit

Rayon Spandex/Jersey

French Terry

Crushed Velvet

Sweater Knit and Suede accents

Burnout Jersey/Rayon Spandex Placket

Thermal

Cotton Lycra

Cotton Lycra

French Terry

MEASURE YOURSELF

The Henley Patterns are all focusing on three measurement points: Chest, Waist and Hips. Judy created an entire post dedicated to measurements and how to properly measure yourself. You can see the full post HERE.

Chest/Full Bust — Full bust is around the fullest/biggest part of your bust. You want the tape as even horizontally as possible. For men/children, the fullest part of their chest is where the measurement needs to be taken.

Hip – This is a deceiving name. It is measured around your fullest/biggest part, which is usually your booty. Try to keep your tape as even horizontally as possible (a mirror really helps on this one!)

Waist– This is your natural waistline. Contrary to most belief, it is NOT your belly button or where you wear your pants (even though you might like high waisted pants). It is taken at the smallest part of your mid section. if you don’t have a very defined natural waist there is a very easy way to find it.

Take any kind of stretch trim, fold over elastic, thin elastic, even a strip of knit will work, and tie it snuggly around your mid section. Now MOVE around, bend walk around, sit down, it will naturally settle on your smallest part. This is your natural waist.

What if you’re taller or shorter than the pattern is drafted for?

Wouldn’t you know that we have an entire blog post dedicated to helping you with that as well? The “rule of thumb” is to add/subtract 1/2″ for every inch that you are different than the pattern is drafted for. For example, at 5’10” there is a 5″ difference so I would need to add 2.5″ throughout the pattern. If I were 5’1″ then I would remove 2″ of length since there is a 4″ difference.

That is why you’re sewing for yourself, isn’t it? To get the perfect fit? Well then let’s get that perfect fit!

Now that you have determined your size and if you’d like to grade, how do you do it? Below are a few examples of grading for a larger waist and hip size. Any adjustments should be made to both the FRONT and BACK pieces. Do not be discouraged if your measurements put you within different or larger sizes than ready-to-wear store-bought clothes as pattern sizing does not translate the same. Our bodies come in all shapes and sizes, and we are all uniquely beautiful.

PRINT YOUR PATTERN(S)

All three henley patterns are “no-trim” pages. That is exactly what it sounds like! The pages are set up to print and be taped/glued together without needing to get scissors out and trim the edges before assembly. It makes this step of the process even quicker. Need help assembling the no-trim pages? No problem! Judy created this fabulous video for us. Go check it out HERE. (You have to be a member of the P4P Facebook group to be able to see the video.)

Before you hit print, BE SURE that your pages are set to print at 100%, no scaling. We still recommend printing only the first page and measuring your 1″ x 1″ (or 4cm x 4cm) square to verify the print size is correct before printing the entire pattern. Even if your square is off by the teeniest amount, the entire pattern will be affected and your dress will not fit. Save yourself some ink and paper (and fabric!) and verify the settings first.

Whew! That was a lot of information to take in, wasn’t it?

Hopefully now, your pattern is printed, taped/glued together, you have properly measured for your size, cut the pattern pieces out and are ready to start cutting into your pretty fabrics tomorrow. If you’re sewing along with us, be sure to tag @PatternsforPirates and #P4PHENLEYSAL on Instagram. Don’t forget to join us on the P4P event page either: Henley SAL on Facebook.

Newest Patterns

Featured Posts

I am super-duper excited to be sharing the newest addition to the P4P pattern lineup: the Set Sail Hat. Get ready for the quickest, cutest sew ever, my friends! Because this hat takes minimal amounts of fabric and gives you maximum results. And it’s reversible! So you are practically getting two hats for the sewing […]

Since the original release of the Boundless Knit Dress, we have seen many requests how to make it a racer back tank dress. With the recent release of the Boho Babydoll (which includes a racer back option), we thought it would be the perfect mashup. So, I’m here to show you how to mash and […]