3,000 feet ain't much, my bike is fine all the way to 11K plus with the 145. I have not tried higher elevations than 11K. Its the needle position that needs changing probably. Call Procycle back up for pointers...

If you drill the slide on the stock carb, it opens faster, but the carb was not designed for that, so I think a lot of people end up with things set richer to compensate. That ruins the mpg.
It can also stumble if things are set too rich.
Easy to experiment with needle positions...

I have heard the stock needle sux, and the dynojet is better.
Before I got the tm40, I just pulled the snorkel, drilled the slide a little and shimmed the needle up some.
Better then stock for zero cost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by M Singer

If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?

It's amazing what a complete and total douchbag you are. Seriously. It's gotten to a point where I just shake my head and sigh everytime you post anything.... in any thread.
For the record, so you can actually know what your talking shit about for once, I sold my DR w/in a week of listing it in the fleamarket to a fellow "inmate". Who has enjoyed the bike very much since he picked it up.
So for the love of god, just for a day or two, maybe, just maybe... STFU.

Sorry to read of your continuing problems. The DR is a perfect machine to begin learning mechanical skills, don't be discouraged by your first experiences, there will be much satisfaction later on.

I have only serviced one clutch so far, and that was a decade ago, however: I started all the bolts, then in a cross-wise pattern began snugging them down a little at a time, intending to make three circuits, with the last circuit using a torque wrench.

NOTE that the torque specified for these bolts is just **7.0 lbft**. You will NOT be able to use a lbft torque wrench for this low value, you MUST use a LBIN torque wrench set to 84 lbin.

7.0 lbft is just a little more than "snug." and you want to have all the bolts at the *same* "snugness" for the clutch to work properly.

Caveat: I'm not a mechanic, maybe someone who is will correct me.

Also: the small fasteners at the bottom of your fork take the same or nearly the same torque; there have been posts here of riders snapping those bolts.

Lastly, you may want to post your location, there may be a local, helpful DR rider who can assist you in getting to know your DR.

Lex

Thanks Lex and Bergdonk for your suggestions. the other small issue seems to be the clutch bolts. I have enclosed a pic. Have been looking everywhere for a similar bolt/washer combo, but not even close even at Home Depot. Had to order one from suzuki. The washers are attached to the bolts, so it is hard to find that same combo. it seems other washers may slip.

My buddy is replacing the BST on KTM's with FCRs. When the 'fast guys' land a jump, the motor quits because gravity slams the vacuum slide shut. Since my 400 pound DR (fuel and tailbag) will bend in the middle (yes, an exaggeration), I don't do jumps.

Sorry to read of your continuing problems. The DR is a perfect machine to begin learning mechanical skills, don't be discouraged by your first experiences, there will be much satisfaction later on.

I have only serviced one clutch so far, and that was a decade ago, however: I started all the bolts, then in a cross-wise pattern began snugging them down a little at a time, intending to make three circuits, with the last circuit using a torque wrench.

NOTE that the torque specified for these bolts is just **7.0 lbft**. You will NOT be able to use a lbft torque wrench for this low value, you MUST use a LBIN torque wrench set to 84 lbin.

7.0 lbft is just a little more than "snug." and you want to have all the bolts at the *same* "snugness" for the clutch to work properly.

Caveat: I'm not a mechanic, maybe someone who is will correct me.

Also: the small fasteners at the bottom of your fork take the same or nearly the same torque; there have been posts here of riders snapping those bolts.

Lastly, you may want to post your location, there may be a local, helpful DR rider who can assist you in getting to know your DR.

Lex

Or, if you have a Torque wrentch that has Newton Metres, The value for Clutch springs is 10nm.
When I did mine recently, I just did them up finger tight, then used torque wrench set at 10nm, turning them a couple of times each (as Bergdonk said) and doing them in a criss-cross fashion until torque setting reached. No dramas.

If the throttle is opened part way and I roll on more, the response is very good. If I completely close the throttle while braking to adjust my speed for an upcoming corner, there is a bit of a stumple when I roll on.

Couldn't opening the side too quickly cause a momentary lean condition that could cause a stumble?

This is the same problem I had with my BST. That, and maddening surge at cruise (light throttle, light load). The TM40 fixed it entirely.

If you drill the slide on the stock carb, it opens faster, but the carb was not designed for that, so I think a lot of people end up with things set richer to compensate. That ruins the mpg.
It can also stumble if things are set too rich.
Easy to experiment with needle positions...

I have heard the stock needle sux, and the dynojet is better.
Before I got the tm40, I just pulled the snorkel, drilled the slide a little and shimmed the needle up some.
Better then stock for zero cost.

I'm going to lower the needle to the 3rd grove from the top today.

I ran shim under the needle with the snorkel pulled b/4 the full jet kit with air box mod. Significantly more power with the jet kit. Didn't really notice the difference from stock to snorkle removed + shim.

3,000 feet ain't much, my bike is fine all the way to 11K plus with the 145. I have not tried higher elevations than 11K. Its the needle position that needs changing probably. Call Procycle back up for pointers...

I have read the BST Bible. Awesome write up! I know this is a different bike but...my CV carbed FZ1 has absolutely 0 lag in throttle response under any condition! Once it is warmed up that is. Actually my issue right now is fuel economy/range. At 2 turns out the hesitation is minor and I can live with it.

Still having turn signal problems. Left side signals work fine, right side, there's nothing front or back. Bulbs checked and they are fine. (Tire pressure is fina also for those suggesting that.) I've gone around the harness and wiggled the right turn signal wires with no effect. I took the front cowling off to access all the wires near the headlight and all seems fine there and no effect from wiggling those turn signal wires there. I dropped the turn signal switch and can't see anything corroded and nothing looks too worn on the parts.

Anyone knowing the wiring of these, please respond. When the key is on but the motor not running, when I turn the right signal on, the light around the speedo and the headlight will dim in time with the flasher, but there is no indicator light on the dash that will light, nor turn signal. So, if you KNOW whether this means the power goes from the switch to the flasher.. meaning the switch is fine and sending juice to the flasher, could you respond? This would hopefully mean a problem after the flasher and I'd like to rule out the switch, and wondering my next move.

As I've said, I hate electrical problems, so if you have any helpful ideas, I'd appreciate hearing from you.

The couple I've checked were at 8.7:1 and 8.8:1
The brochure spec or 9.5:1 from Suzuki is pretty optimistic.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LexTalionis

Motorcycle Consumer News did a multi-part article on upgrades to the DR650 last year. This year, they're doing another multi-part article on engine blueprinting using the same DR650.

In the March issue they measured the displacement and calculated the combustion ratio.

Suzuki states the combustion ratio is 9.5:1.

MCN measured the combustion ratio on their bike as 8.95:1.

The usual caveats pertain; this is only one example.

Lex

__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Ffordewww.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning

If he doesn't chime in here first, I will give him a call. I suspect he will suggest dropping the needle down one clip.

Absolutely. Anyone installing a jet kit should experiment with the needle clip position. It should be set with the clip in the highest position that still gives smooth operation and good throttle response.

__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Ffordewww.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning