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Its all moving forward. Pretty fast as well. Ive made alot of small and a couple large changes. Probably have spent another 20 hours tweaking this thing to perfection. The parts are out for qoute now. Then prototype and test. Then preorder and build.

The frame is now pnue compliant. Has a really cool custom trigger to go with it. Possibly a couple of options as well.

...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.

I like your thinking

-grub

Lol nice. At least i got the punctuation in the right place. Im sure you know what I mean.
Example. I ended up with a $75 order of screws and pins for the run of M86. But everythings stainless steel because the last thing I want on one of my frames is a rusted screw. So Im treating things as if they are for my personal guns.

Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

Yes, you should use anti seize with with ss and aluminum, paintball markers or anything for that matter especially if it will be a long term connection. I also use it on the AGD regulator spring packs.

i am a firm believer of SS screws, but when you are talking about reactivity, are you talking bare aluminium and stainless or does the anno help at all? but anti-seize of any sort will help. i, for one, work on guns for people and RED LOCTITE is not an anti-seize and should never be used in paintball.

Anno will help some but it's not the right answer on its own. At work we have a few rules based on environment. This ranges widely from exposed decks where we go with conversion coated Al with stainless helicoils which have been wet assembled with a zinc rich primer, fasteners installed into coils with marine grade antiseize. Inside vessel in a "controlled" environment: wet assembly of stainless fasteners directly into annodized Al is acceptable with the right compound. There are lots of options in between too.

We use the Henkel stuff (yup , loc tite branded) and it does let you get away with a lot... It's pretty good stuff.

Keep in mind that it will change the installation torques of fasteners.

EDIT: might also be worth noting that carbon steel into al isn't exactly optimal either

Finally got some renderings with grip panels. Also shows the new trigger.

Scott(BigEvil) is gonna be testing the prototype for me. All I have is S/S bodied mags.

Also named the frame.
KAM Designs, Demon Series K45AI

First is with the custom fore-grip. Ive lightened that up so its not as "heavy" feeling.

Second is showing the optional Vert asa and a Benchmark ASA gas thru fore-grip. I should have a very limited number of benchmark fore-grips to sell with the frames.
The frame is slotted so you can add whatever fore-grip you want if desired.

Aluminum parts for the Custom Foregrip variant equals right around 5/8 of a pound for weight. Its about as light as it can do. Plenty of internal milling and weight removal everywhere. That weight does not include any hardware (screws, sear, pins)

I like both.
As far as mounting the optional vert asa does it pinch the rail then bolt up as the old style does from the top?
And if so couldn't you do the same with the custom vert grip?
ANY HOW great looking uniframe

I like both.
As far as mounting the optional vert asa does it pinch the rail then bolt up as the old style does from the top?
And if so couldn't you do the same with the custom vert grip?
ANY HOW great looking uniframe

Bolting the vert asa is from the top of the rail down into threaded holes on the asa. Same idea as the bike grips on a RT mag.

^^i thought so.
So couldn't you do the other one in pic#1 the same way?

It does bolt the same way. Just wraps the front of the frame to give a more complete part.

Originally Posted by maverick13

Wonderfull !
The most difficult will be to choose which one !

Why chose one. Just buy all the parts. That way you can swap them to whatever you want.

Once Scott(BigEvil) signs off on the prototype being perfect I will start a pre-order. Still gotta figure out a pricing structure because I can see already that everyone's gonna want a different set of parts.