Yep, without pulling holes, it's scary getting them off. If it were mine, I'd wedge a cold chisel under the flywheel, one to each side, where there is engine block as a backer. I usually can find chisels that will just lightly drive in, putting a forward pre-load on the flywheel. Then I use a hammer against a brass drift on the crank end. Hardwood wedges may work, but you only have a few thousands of crank end-play to wok with. The taken up end-play is what pops them loose when the shock/push hits it. If you use wood, the wood usually compresses, taking away the "push", leaving you with just the shock factor. 2 advantages are better than just one. I sure hate hitting on the end of a crank, but have had to do it many a time. Only problem I ever had was with an old Kohler with a threaded end, and I was using a puller. When I tapped the tightened puller, the threaded end of the crank broke right off! No worries with that on this one with that large crankshaft extension.

I know what you mean about it being scary. On my wedges I have 4 that I made at work, I made them out of oak and there about 8" long, I can't even count how many times they came in handy. Some times in a case like this, if I know I have clearance behind it, then I will drill and tap two 3/8-16 holes so I can mount a puller. Biggest thing in pulling anything is to make sure you have even pressure on 2 sides. Just take your time George, I know you will get this off.

I wanted to post an update. We had a chance to work on the engine some today. I needed a break from working on the server anyway.

We did manage to get the flywheel off. Used to long punches and wedged them behind the flywheel to put outward pressure on it as suggested. I tried using a block of wood to cushion the blow a little but it didn't work. I finally gave in and whacked it good two times directly with the hammer on the end of the crank and it came loose.

However I have other issues with the engine. I somehow broke a little piece on the governor gear counterweights and will have to see about getting a new governor gear/counterweight. Also the piston is chewed up pretty good at the top above the rings which I am guessing is from all of the carbon that was built up. The cylinder bore looks good though although I can't check out of round. I need to decide if I am going to spend the money and do it right and get the bore machined and get a new piston. Which would also mean the rings that I got wouldn't do any good.

Or I can save the money and use it towards putting a diesel in it

Here are some pictures:

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Yes take a break from the Server! you are doing a great job BTW! Sorry to hear about that counter weight,I can search around for you,Heck maybe a member has one they can donate( hint hint peoples). That is the 1st time I've seen a piston top worn like that, You could actually still use it if you had to. And as far as the bore goes, if it looks good, have a shop check to see if it is round, if it is then just hone the cylinder. That way you could use the rings you bought. I do like the idea of a Diesel, But that is a tough one, because I like keeping things original if I can. It will be great what ever you decide. Good luck George!

I was cleaning off the old gasket to help as best I can when I found a small piece of metal and asked George where it came from.Somehow it was from the governor gear counterweights. I thought that we were doing rather well up to this point. The piston also had some unwelcome marks at the top. It is still a work in progress , but I will continue enjoy learning with my son as we go through the rebuild.

Looks like that break has been partially there for a while. I wouldn't say you did any more than finish the job. Probably best that it happened now than after assembly. Piece that size can do one heck of a lot of damage.

I think I am going to be getting a new over sized piston and ring kit and have the bore machined. I checked the ring gaps with the new set of rings I have that are standard sized rings and the ring gap is probably around 3/16". According to the manual the ring gap is supposed to be .002 to .004 so I think there might be some wear. I didn't get much of a chance to really mess with it to much and do more measuring, could be that the cylinder was already bored but I don't think it was. The ring gap on the original rings is even worse with it being almost a 1/4".

You are probably right Daniel. I might have looked at the measurements wrong and maybe it is supposed to be .020 to .040. I know if it is supposed to be .002 to .004 that is going to be hard to try and file the ring gap and get it perfect.

Bob is sending me the governor gear assembly and I should have it this weekend or early next week. I gotta go get a hone and a ring compressor and am hoping to get it back together in time for the Dover show. It will be the only tractor the little one can drive since I lent her tractor to a friend and I probably won't see it back LOL.

I think the HD-12 will actually be easier for her to drive then the Massey 12H because the lever is easier to move.