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Shanghai: T for Thai

A couple of years ago, I wrote about Cuivre, one of Shanghai’s hottest French restaurants. The same chef, Michael Wendling, recently opened T for Thai (1502 Huaihai Zhong Road; 淮海中路1502号2楼) right above Cuivre. Chef Wendling spent the past year traveling back and forth to Thailand, learning the local delicacies from the top restaurants and the down-and-dirty street food stalls.

When you first walk up the stairs to T for Thai, you’re greeted by two cute tuk-tuks with a backdrop of Thailand. Inside the restaurant, the mood is modern with dark lighting and a glowing green bar in the back. I was definitely digging the vibe. Looking around at the other diners, I felt like I was in one of the hippest restaurants in Shanghai.

Top: Nahm Prik Kai Kem (Salted Duck Egg Relish)

Just like Cuivre, the menu is on a iPad. My friend and I ordered the nahm prik kai kem, yum som-o, pad thai gung sod and gaeng massaman nong gae. The nahm prik kai kem is a salted duck egg dip served with some raw vegetables/fruit and grilled calamari. I didn’t quite know what to expect, but it was a really interesting relish. It’s definitely on the salty side and tastes almost fermented, but the boldness of the dip paired well with the plain vegetables. My favorite combination was actually the relish with starfruit. I really enjoyed the sweetness and crunch of the starfruit with the saltiness of the dip.

The yum som-o is a shrimp and pomelo salad that is topped with toasted coconut, bell peppers and mint. With my first bite of this salad, my first thought was: “This is so flavorful.” My second thought was: “Everything tastes so fresh.” I really enjoy pomelo, which is like grapefruit but isn’t quite as acidic and has larger kernels. The tartness from the citrus complemented the spiciness of the sauce and I enjoyed the crunch from the coconut and fried shallots. The roasted shrimp was also cooked perfectly.

For our main dishes, the pad thai gung sod is solid but nothing incredibly unique. I always have a soft spot in my heart for pad thai, but I wouldn’t need to order this dish again from T for Thai. However, the gaeng massaman nong gae is incredible. This was a slow-braised lamb shank cooked in massaman curry with small chunks of potatoes. I loved how the curry was thick, signaling that it had been simmered for a long time. The lamb easily fell off the bone and was so tender. My friend and I were getting really full, but we couldn’t help but polish off the bowl of rice.

I really loved the food at T for Thai. While I’ve never been to Thailand and can’t vouch for authenticity, it didn’t really feel like “fusion” food to me and it also didn’t seem like it was a French chef trying to do a European take on Thai food. Everything was so incredibly flavorful and fresh. I actually think I like the food even better than at Cuivre (a bold statement, indeed). I do want to warn you that the restaurant gets really loud when it’s full. I think this is because the sound bounces really easily off of all the concrete surfaces. Of course, this is just a minor detail, but it may not be the best place to go on a first date if you want to have a meaningful conversation with someone.

My only other complaint is that I had a really difficult time eating the food with the silverware and plating given to me. The plates were small and curved in a really weird way. I kept finding myself crudely using my finger to get the food on my fork/spoon so I could eat it. Then, my bowl was really light, but my silverware was significantly heavier. It felt awkward to eat and the bowl even slipped out of my hand. Maybe, I’m the only who suffered from this problem. But, I’m willing to deal with it because I found my new favorite Thai restaurant in Shanghai.