Mary
Emma Allen has been a columnist since 1964 and has written many columns
for newspapers and magazines. These include cooking, history, book reviews,
restaurant reviews, gardening, quiltmaking, consumer topics, children's
stories and activities, homespun philosophy, travel, and marriage. Currently
she writes "Country Kitchen" for newspapers in New Hampshire
and Utah, "Refunder's Hotline" for a New Hampshire newspaper,
and a marriage column for The Oasis, an online Christian publication.
Mary Emma Allen also is a book author and newsletter editor/publisher.
MARY EMMA ALLEN'S BOOK AMONG TOP 10
(PLYMOUTH, NH) - Mary Emma Allen's book, WRITING IN MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE
& VERMONT, was named on Carolyn Howard-Johnson's list of Top 10
Books for Writers. Howard-Johnson also placed a review of this resource
book for writers, publishers, librarians, and educators at Amazon.com.
This book, published by Writer's World Press, gives resources for writers,
publishers, librarians and those interested in writing and publishing,
whether they live in the Tri-States area or in other parts of the country.
"This little volume makes an excellent addendum to any book an
author might presently be using as a resource," said Ms. Howard-Johnson,
the award-winning author of "This Is the Place" and a familiar
name among book reviewers.
Check out Mary Emma Allen's Web Site for more cooking information and
recipes. http://homepage.fcgnetworks.net/jetent/mea
She also writes "Teacher to Teacher," a column for teachers,
homeschooling parents, and parents who are encouraging young writers.
This appears on the Rising Writers site: www.writingcorner.com/rising/main.htm
E-mail: me.allen@juno.com
Photo by Caron Gonthier

The wonders of a winter woodland abound around our home,
situated on three wooded acres near the end of a dirt road. The other
morning when we woke up to a few inches of snow, the evergreens were
bent low with a white coating, the chickadees were uttering their distinctive
call as they peered from the gourd bird house in the maple tree, blue
jays called out from another area, and animal tracks criss-crossed the
white ground.

Even though we still don’t have much snow on the ground for this
time of year, the magic of winter whiteness abounds and the grandchildren
called with glee, “We had snow in the night.” Later in the
day, they frolicked with their dog around the house.

Exploring the Winter Woodland

I’ve always been fascinated by a winter woodland and have enjoyed
living in one ever since we built this home, 27 years ago. After a snow
storm, the woodland is shrouded by a silence that makes each snap and
crack of frosty branch, each bird call or animal’s movement seem
magnified.

When I was growing up on a farm, I’d walk along the trail to
the woods behind our barn. Usually there was a trail to follow where
Father had taken the tractor and wagon to get a load of wood for the
kitchen stove and wood furnace. It was relaxing and refreshing to hike
there and become aware of all the woodland sights and sounds.

Winter Sights & Sounds, Far & Near

You can discover a winter wonderland close to home or throughout your
travels in northern country where it snows. Perhaps you’re on
snowshoes or cross-country skis. As you enjoy these activities while
on a winter trip, take time to notice the wonderland around you.

In the woodland, if you’re observant, you’ll encounter
reminders of life other than human and often can read stories in the
snow. For frequently, crossing your path or running beside it, you’ll
see the tracks of forest and field animals and birds.

The other morning, as I walked back our long driveway from the mail
box, I noticed small tracks running in the snow beside the tire tracks.
It wasn’t our dog, because these were much smaller. They didn’t
appear to be the tracks of the neighbor’s cat. Some small creature
had visited.

Identifying these creatures and listening for their calls as you wend
your way through little traveled areas, or even the woods around our
home, can be a delightful bonus for an outdoor adventurer. Books on
nature and wildlife often give a chart for deciphering the various wildlife
tracks.

Photographing Tracks

If you’re interested in wildlife photography, reading the tracks
in the snow may lead you to an exciting photo of winter wildlife wherever
you travel throughout the country. Also, photographing tracks in the
snow is a way to preserve your observations as a souvenir of this experience
on your cross-country trek.

Photographing tracks is not easy because of varying light conditions.
However, it is a challenge you might want to undertake on your travels
through the winter woods on skis or snowshoes. This also is an enjoyable
activity to undertake with youngsters.

Whether you’re skiing or trekking in Waterville Valley, NH, Jackson
Hole, WY, Stowe, VT, Park City, UT, Squaw Valley, CA, Steamboat Springs,
CO or numerous other well-known and out-of-the- way places, there are
many stories to discover and mysteries to solve through the tracks in
the snow.

The search for one’s ancestors and family history can lead you
on fascinating jaunts and adventures of discovery. As I delve into the
stories of my ancestors’ lives, I’m led to parts of the
country, distant from where I grew up. Following the trails of my ancestors
has enabled me to visit interesting places, make new friends, and meet
relatives.

When I was growing up in southeastern New York State, my world mainly
revolved around the family I lived with and my mom’s parents and
cousins 45 miles away. One aunt and uncle lived in New Hampshire, so
visits with them opened our world.

However, as I searched for ancestors, I was led to western New York,
Rhode Island, Illinois, Kansas, and Civil War sites of the South. My
genealogy travels opened up new vistas and brought me to historic sites.

Ancestors in Binghamton, NY & Kansas

As I looked for Great Grandmother Olive’s origins, I discovered
she grew up near Binghamton, NY, three hours’ drive west from
where I spent my childhood. I’ve visited that area and discovered
more about this branch of my family.

This research introduced me to Olive’s brother, mentioned only
as Uncle William Mathewson in Grandma’s photo album. However,
he was known in Kansas, where he settled, as the original Buffalo Bill.
He left home and took up life in the West as a fur trapper and explorer.

Eventually Uncle Buffalo Bill established trading posts on the Santa
Fe Trail, married an adventurous English woman, helped found Wichita,
Kansas, and was an Indian peacemaker requested by the natives at treaty
talks.

Uncle George in a Civil War Cemetery

William and my Great Grandmother Olive’s half-brother, George,
perished from dysentery during the Civil War. Research led me to a cemetery
at Marietta, GA, north of Atlanta. On a sunny spring day, my husband
and I visited the Union Cemetery, followed a description their mother’s
letter, and found a marker with Uncle George’s name on it.

There also was a tall monument with a star on it, described by Great
Great Grandmother Eliza. How interesting to find this evidence that
Uncle George did fight in the War Between the States and was buried
where his mother believed.

Early Settlers in Providence, RI

Tracing the Mathewson family to their beginnings in this country, led
me to Providence, RI. There we find a street called Mathewson Street
and a theatre named after this family. I’ve walked along this
street, trying to visualize it as the area might have looked when the
early Mathewsons lived there.

From Providence and nearby Johnston, various Mathewsons headed westward
like many other families in Rhode Island. First my direct ancestors
moved to the Windsor, CT area, where William married Tabitha Chaffee.
Some of their children were born there and others in Triangle, Broome
County NY in the early 1800s. My family descended from them.

Tracing only one branch of my family, the Mathewsons, has led me to
various parts of the country. Other areas I’ve researched from
my parents’ families include Columbia County, NY, Quaker Hill,
NY, Salina, KS, Welton, IA, Low Moor, IA and Seattle, WA.

Meeting Today’s Descendants

In my research I’ve discovered second and third cousins and we’ve
shared information and memories. Friendships have evolved as we’ve
gotten to know one another.

Following the trail of your ancestors’ lives can take you to
many new areas of the country and to foreign countries. As you travel
for genealogy purposes, you’ll also find other enjoyable aspects
of these regions.

As I sat midst friends and new acquaintances dining on
chicken at a church supper in South Dakota recently, I was drawn back
in memory to those events of my childhood. I recall most vividly the
turkey suppers in November. The ladies of our community church pooled
their talents and time to prepare this meal to raise funds.

Even though I grew up in a small farming community in
the Hudson River Valley of New York State, the church supper on the
South Dakota prairie seemed so similar. The ladies bustled around the
church kitchen, where they had worked all afternoon, preparing chicken,
mashed potatoes and gravy, corn, whole wheat and white rolls, and cranberry
relish.

As we made our way along the buffet line, men and ladies spooned food
onto our plates. More church members made sure we had juice, coffee,
or water while we enjoyed our food and visited with others at our table.

Old friends stopped by the table, and we chatted with new ones who
happened to be our tablemates. The lady beside me shared quilting news
about her group of friends who made quilts as a church project. The
men talked about crops, and then the old house a young couple was restoring.

Pie – the Dessert of Favor

It seems that the dessert of favor at country community dinners consists
of a selection of pies. The ladies of the church contributed their favorites….”I
made apple crumb. Mine was crustless coconut cream. I used my mother’s
recipe for cherry pie. My pumpkin pie was made from one grown in our
garden. I tried a new recipe for peach pie.”

The table was laden as we chose the pie to complete our meal. We also
were offered a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped topping.

Community Spirit

Whether they are harvest festivals, church socials, turkey or chicken
dinners, ham and bean suppers or spaghetti dinners, these meals prepared
by church groups or community organizations reflect an age-old tradition
in our country and contribute to our heritage.

They provide an occasion for members of the town to gather, share ideas,
catch up with one another’s’ lives, forget misunderstandings,
and forge a sense of community.

A spirit develops that characterizes a region and makes it truly unique.

Suppers Throughout the USA

As one travels around our country, they’ll see signs in front
of churches and town halls, announcing the Community Suppers…“Ham
& Bean Supper,” “Annual Chicken Dinner,” “Community
Turkey Dinner,” "Strawberry Festival," etc.

Also, when looking at community calendars of events (often found in
local newspapers or tourist hand-outs), you may find notices about these
community suppers where visitors as well as church members and local
residents are welcome.

Church and Community Cookbooks

From these events also have evolved cookbooks with recipes from the
community members who organize the suppers. Often these cookbooks are
developed as fund raisers, sold to earn money for a church or community
project.

I have a cookbook from the church in the community where I grew up,
as well as one my mother-in-law contributed to at her church. As I read
through the recipes and the names of the contributors, memories of days
ago and church suppers come forth.

Some travelers like to collect these community cookbooks, whether church
groups, quilting guilds or other organizations publish them. They give
a flavor of the region and often contain recipes reminding you of the
enjoyable time you spent at a community meal, whether in your hometown
or one you visited in your travels.

So often we think we must wait for the time and money
to take a trip far from home to enjoy a vacation or getaway. However,
frequently there are places to visit, relax, and have fun closer to
home that can provide a brief breather in one’s busy life.

These might involve a place in a nearby town that offers weekend deals.
Or it may even entail day trips to local attractions while you spend
the nights at home. Instead of letting your budget get in the way of
mini-vacations, become creative in finding recreation and relaxation
that will bring a couple or family closer together.

When I was editor of a weekly travel publication in New Hampshire,
I discovered that my state had much to offer. Before that, when I thought
of taking a trip or vacation, my thoughts roamed to places further away.

Regional Explorations

Below are some ideas I discovered for exploring our state. Use the
general concept for discovering your area. If you don’t have a
seacoast, of course, you won’t plan that type of trip. If you
live on the plains with no mountains, substitute some other regional
recreation idea.

*Capital Tour ­ Most state capital cities offer
a variety of interesting places to visit or explore. The capitol and
other state government buildings provide a learning experience and often
are full of history. In New Hampshire’s capital city of Concord,
in addition to those locations, there are old homes of state leaders,
former governors, and historic figures.

If you like dining, generally there are unique places to visit. In
Concord you’ll find a Mexican restaurant in a renovated city jail.
My daughter and I discovered it fun to have a meal in a jail cell…with
door unlocked, of course!

Sometimes shopping areas are located at historic sites. An old hotel
and surrounding outbuildings have been transformed into a shopping mall
with courtyard, exclusive stores, and restaurants.

*Mountain Trip ­ If your state has mountains and
you enjoy hiking and/or camping, this can be a pleasurable weekend or
few days. The White Mountains of New Hampshire also are near the northern
end of the Appalachian Trail. Historic old homesteads and deserted villages
(or “ghost” towns) provide appeal for the archeology buff.

An auto tour of the scenic mountains can include stops at Santa’s
Village, Six Gun City, Story Land, Heritage and other attractions. These
will provide a number of fun-filled days.

*Seacoast Jaunt ­ New Hampshire is one of the
states having both mountains and seacoast, even though the coast is
only about 18 miles long. That’s one of the places for an enjoyable
outing, whether you go to the ocean for a day of frolicking on the beach
or decide to stay over at a motel or cottage, too.

Building sand castles, looking for seashells, studying sea life and
climbing over rocks along the shore provide inexpensive yet relaxing
activities. There also are shops and restaurants at towns like Hampton
Beach.

*Lakes Region Round-Up ­ New Hampshire also has
a region of lakes in the middle of the state, highlighted by the larger
Lake Winnipesaukee. Boating, swimming, staying at a cottage along the
shore, and taking side tours of nearby villages with shops and entertainment
provide much to fill your time.

Regional recreational opportunities abound in one’s home area,
whether a day trip, weekend or mid-week escape from your busy routine.
If you’re unsure what your state or a nearby one has to offer,
contact the state’s department of tourism or regional tourist
associations. Usually these will have an online site.

Whatever you do, find time for a short escape from your busy schedule
and discover what your town, region, and state has to offer.

A favorite drive for many travelers leads over the historic Mohawk
Trail of northwestern Massachusetts. This route traverses sixty-three
picturesque miles of Route 2 from the Mass-New York border to Millers
Falls on the Connecticut River. Following the footpath of the Native
Americans, this scenic highway takes one through some of the loveliest
scenery in the state, particularly during the foliage season of autumn.

The Mohawk Trail has been our favorite way to travel from New York State
across Massachusetts since the days of my childhood when my family visited
my aunt and uncle in New Hampshire. Winding across the Hoosac Mountain
Range, stopping to enjoy the views (a four-state one is possible from
the Whitcomb Summit tower). Then we looked for the statues of the elk
and Indian statues along the trail.

Once Home of Native Americans

Over rugged mountains, through forested valleys, along rushing rivers,
the traveler discovers a splendored vacation land and captivating drive.
Natural and manmade wonders, historic sites, and recreation opportunities
attract the visitor to this area where the moccasined feet of the North
American natives once wore a pathway.

The Mohawk Indians trekked these mountains to hunt and fish in Deerfield
and the Connecticut River Valley. History has it that in 1663, the Pocumtuck
Indians from the area near present day Greenfield invaded the Mohawk’s
lands, blazing a trail across the Hoosac Range from Deerfield to Troy,
New York.

An attempt to end this war was made by Dutch settlers near Albany and
a peace treaty was negotiated. However, when the Mohawk prince, Saheda,
traveled over this path to ratify the treaty, he was murdered on the
trail. It took the angry Mohawks only a day to destroy all the Pocumtuck
warriors.

Pioneer Settlers Create Roads

Once the white men began settling Massachusetts, the pioneers from
the Massachusetts Bay Colony reblazed the trail across the mountains
to the Dutch colonies in the Hudson and Mohawk Valleys of New York.
Eventually this trail became known as a "shunpike." Finally
in September 1914 it was officially named the New Mohawk Trail.

Nowadays the trail makes remote areas of northeastern Massachusetts
accessible to the tourist. There are the famous Hairpin Turn, New England’s
Natural Bridge, Whitcomb Summit (the highest point on the trail), the
famed Bridge of Flowers, and numerous historic sites which are exciting
to explore for the lover of picturesque scenery and those fascinated
by the history of our country.

Renowned Memorial

At the eastern base of the mountain range, near the Indian Bridge,
you can view the "Hail to the Sunrise" memorial to the Mohawk
tribe. A statue of a native brave with uplifted arms supposedly beckons
the newborn day of hope and peace. This was a favorite stopping place
along the trail for my family.

The eight-foot bronze statue was sculptured by Joseph P. Polia and
placed on land donated by Mr. and Mrs. Cecil Kennedy. This 900-pound
brave stands on a nine-ton boulder and was unveiled in October 1932.
Eventually the Kennedys donated a total of six acres for Mohawk Park
dedicated to the Native Americans.

Also located at the park is a pool which contains 100 stones inscribed
from tribes and councils around New England as well as the United States.
Some call this the Indian wishing pool.

I find the Mohawk Trail an enjoyable road to travel...one that also
brings back memories of childhood when my parents took us on trips over
its length, stopping for a picnic lunch at the spot where they ate on
theirs on their first drive. For me the past and the present are intermingled
here...my past and present and that of the Native Americans and early
settlers to this area.

Many seasonal events take place at various locations along the trail.
You'll find them listed here, along with accommodations, restaurants,
details about places to visit to make yours a memorable trip.

As I walked among the markers at the Union Cemetery in Marietta, GA,
I realized I was striding through history. All over the hillside the
white stones were aligned and the names of Civil War soldiers carved
on them. Finally, I found it...the grave I'd been looking for.

"Here’s Uncle George!" I exclaimed and bent down to
examine the name of George Mathewson carved into the marble.

This was the great, great uncle who'd never returned home to the Binghamton,
New York area. He'd died...not in battle, but from dysentery...and had
been buried far from his family. The tall granite marker designated
the area of the cemetery where he and others of his regiment had lain
for more than a century.

History Comes Alive

As I read marker, I compared the words to those in a letter his mother
had written to her daughter, my great grandmother. History came alive
when I saw the place where Uncle George lay, the cemetery his mother
only imagined from reports that another son, Augustus, had given her.

These battlefields, historic sites, and memorabilia abound around Atlanta
and provide fascinating destinations for the visitor to the South. If
you have ancestors who fought in Georgia battles, you can retrace their
steps and, if they died there, may even find their graves, as I did.

From northwest Georgia to Atlanta and then southeast to Savannah, the
Confederate forces sought to defend their homes and cities from northern
capture and destruction, as General Sherman and his 100,000 troops swept
over the land. Many of these battle sites are designated so you can
find them and explore these places where so much United States history
took place.

A northerner, I discovered I had five great, great uncles who participated
in the Atlanta campaign. Uncle George, who died of illness, not in battle,
is buried in the Union Cemetery at Marietta, north of Atlanta. His grave
is marked and a monument, set in place in 1864, stands nearby in recognition
of all the men in his regiment who gave their lives to unite their country.

Retracing Ancestors’ Steps

As I retraced Uncle George’s steps and those of Uncles James,
Gus, Henry Ira, and Egbert, these battle sites took on new meaning for
me. Then when I could compare them with descriptions in the uncles’
letters and regimental reports, I envisioned better the fighting that
took place in the spring and summer of 1864.

General William Tecumseh Sherman and his troops entered Georgia from
Tennessee to the north. From there they forced the Confederate troops
back to Resaca, then southward to Cassville, New Hope Church, the Kolb
farm, Kennesaw Mountain, Peachtree Creek, Atlanta, where they burned
the
city and then in November left in the sweep to the sea. Sherman’s
strategy was to destroy the South’s railroads, factories, and
food supply and bring the South to its knees.

By retracing my ancestors’ trails across the South, exploring
various Civil War sites, and comparing this information with their reports,
I gained more insight into my past and the sufferings of both North
and South. I also found people very helpful when it came to my search.

Finding Help

For instance, as I looked for Uncle George, my search led my husband,
Jim, and me to the Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park in Marietta,
GA. I knew Uncle George had fought here and was buried nearby, based
on the description of the cemetery in one of his brother’s letters
home.

But where would I find his grave? Was it marked? Or was he just one
of many buried in unmarked graves in a specific area?

Either way, I wanted to discover as much as I could. At the Kennesaw
Mountain National Battlefield Park, I mentioned that I was looking for
Uncle George’s grave in a Union Cemetery.

The guide pulled out a diagram of the Union Cemetery in Marietta as
the most likely location, looked in a listing of soldiers buried there,
and found George Mathewson. From here, the young man was able to give
me the approximate location of Uncle George’s stone. I've discovered
that the personnel in museums, historic sites, libraries are very helpful
as you search for Civil War data.

How to Search

When searching for Civil War ancestors, try to find out as much about
them as possible from family records, letters, stories handed down over
the generations (although stories often change with the telling), research
about battles. If one died during the war, you might not be able to
find the exact grave site, as I did, but you can walk over battlefields,
travel along roads where soldiers trekked and get some idea of where
they went and what they did.

On the 600-mile trip from New Hampshire to Ohio circumstances necessitated
that my husband and I travel the last 200 miles at no more than 50 mph.
We soon found we didn't want to drive that slowly along the New York
Thruway on a Friday afternoon. So we exited at Rochester and cut cross-country
over lesser traveled roads.

Frustrated at first, because we wouldn't reach our destination as planned,
we soon began to enjoy the scenery as we wound through small towns,
up hill and down across miles of farm land with little traffic. The
day was sunny, the countryside amazingly green. Jim and I felt ourselves
relaxing without the constant tense vigilance required when traveling
along a superhighway when the weekend exodus is taking place.

After leaving the dairy country, we traveled through vineyards along
the shores of Lake Erie. Glimpses of the lake with the sun setting below
the horizon was an additional bonus in this day vexed with many frustrations,
including two flat tires. Although we were tired (we'd even left home
an hour early that morning...at 5 AM) when we reached our daughter and
son-in-law’s home near Cleveland, we felt enriched because we'd
had the pleasure of a more leisurely trip midst splendid scenery.

Too Often Bypass Country Roads

In these days of superhighways, we so often bypass the country roads
in our hurry to reach our destinations. Highways are straightened, hills
cut through, stream beds changed, and trees sawed down so the roadsides
can be maintained easily with modern machinery.

This all seems necessary as more people desire to get to more places
more quickly. However, if we are not in a hurry and want to do some
exploring, we still can find country roads to travel.

Magic of Country Roads

There is something about a country road that is friendly and welcoming.
Unless it’s a dirt road in mud season! You can meander along these
roads at less than superhighway speed. In fact, you have to.

You take time to notice the beauties along the way...the towering,
gnarled tree that has stood for decades, the rippling brook wandering
across the meadow, the cow and calf grazing near the thicket, and the
multitudes of wild flowers blooming brilliantly in the wild.

Everyone will discover their favorite country roads if they take time
to explore. Here are a few you might want to travel throughout the country.

Suggested Country Roads

*Route 5 from Buffalo, NY to , Ohio follows the shore of Lake Erie,
providing glimpses of the water. It goes through small towns and the
larger city of Dunkirk, as well as past numerous vineyards. (If you're
traveling here in the fall when the grapes are ripe, the aroma is enticing.)
Dunkirk, with its lighthouse and War of 1812 historic sites might be
a place where you'd like to linger.

*Route 28 in Idaho offers you much diverse country to see from Mud
Lake to Salmon. One stretch is so straight you seem to see the road
for miles ahead before it reaches the mountains.

*The Skyline Drive of Virginia is a country type road, although one
of the more publicized ones. However, it’s well worth traveling.

*Route 2 across the Lake Champlain Islands in Vermont is another we've
enjoyed.

*Route 4, from Quechee to Rutland, Vermont leads the traveler through
lovely countryside and picturesque villages.

*Route 26 from Ogallala, Nebraska to Fort Laramie, Wyoming follows
many portions of the Oregon and Mormon Trails, with their views of historic
sites.

*The Kancamagus Highway, Route 112, across the White Mountains of New
Hampshire provides you with scenic views and pull-offs where you can
get out and explore the countryside. Many hiking trails lead off the
Kanc.

*In Florida, Route 11 from Bunnell to De Land enables you to miss heavy
superhighway traffic during peak times and gives you a glimpse of agricultural
countryside.

The list could go on endlessly; you must have your favorites, too.
Begin exploring some of these country roads where the maximum speed
is lower than the superhighways, where small towns beckon, and you take
the time to explore. You may find, as others have, that often the winding
byways of life can prove more interesting than always taking the straight
and quickest path.

(Write to the Dept. of Tourism in individual states or the Chambers
of Commerce of larger towns along the route to find out more about any
of the country roads I've mentioned. Most of these also have web sites
where you can find information about that state or area.)

The Old Man of the Mountain, a natural granite profile hanging from
a cliff in Franconia Notch, New Hampshire, has been a symbol of the
Granite State for decades. Visitors from all over this country and the
world have traveled to this site to view the Old Man, 1,200 feet above
the valley floor.

Sometime
during early May, 2003, the Old Man fell into the valley below. Obscured
by clouds during May 1 and 2, his demise was noticed the morning of
Saturday, May 3, around 7:30 AM, when the clouds cleared and daylight
revealed the missing profile.

Sadness has enveloped the residents of the region. To some it’s
almost as though a family member has passed on. The view of the Old
Man’s Mountain will not be the same with this state landmark gone.

Stories of the Old Man

The Old Man supposedly was first viewed by white settlers nearly 200
years ago. A number of stories have evolved regarding the first person
to see him, but once this granite phenomenon was discovered, its fame
began spreading.

Author Nathaniel Hawthorne’s description of the Great Stone Face,
in his story of that name, caused travelers to come from all over to
see this natural marvel of the White Mountains.

Daniel Webster, that famous statesman from New Hampshire, is supposed
to have said, in referring to the Old Man, "....but in the mountains
of New Hampshire, God Almighty has hung out a sign to show that there
He makes men."

Care of Old Man

For many years, Niels Nielsen and then his son David, when Niels was
no longer
able, have checked out the Old Man and made repairs. Niels once told
me, "Keeping the Old Man like that is what it’s all about.
If the Old Man can be preserved for even one extra generation’s
view, then all past, present, and future efforts will have been worthwhile."

Niels began working for the New Hampshire Highway Department in 1960
and two weeks later was on the crew assigned to inspect and measure
the Old Man. "For me, that was it," Niels said.

Until 1981, Niels went over the face alone each year. But that year
Dave joined him; Niels had decided it was time he trained someone else
to take measurements and understand the intricacies of maintaining the
granite profile, someone with a feeling for and understanding of the
Old Man who would carry on the work when Niels could no longer do it.

For Niels, caring for the Old Man, became a labor of love. He frequently
traveled around the state giving talks about his work.

Trip to the Old Man

I have childhood memories of my family vacationing in the Granite State
and traveling through Franconia Notch where we were intrigued by the
Old Man of the Mountain. In more recent years, my work as a writer and
editor included interviews with Niels Nielsen. One involved a trip to
the top of the mountain when Niels and his crew made a foray to inspect
the Old Man

In my memories of the Old Man I recall that spring day, in June, 1984,
when several other journalists and I accompanied Niels and David Nielsen
and members of the N.H. Division of Parks to assess the winter damage.
We traveled by tram to the top of Cannon Mountain, then hiked about
a mile across the top over boulders and crevasses to the site of the
Old Man.

Niels explained their work and what they were trying to accomplish
with epoxy and cables...to make this granite profile last longer for
the enjoyment of future generations. Then he and David were lowered
over the face in bos’ns chairs to inspect winter damage and decide
on any maintenance.

Later that summer, they would return with the materials needed to shore
up the Old Man for awhile longer. Periodically, the Franconia State
Park crew went out during the summer to make repairs on the turnbuckles,
sluicing (which diverted water away from the face), and canopy.

When the inspection was over for the day, we hiked down the mountain,
marveling at this natural creation the Nielsen family and their crew
were maintaining for New Hampshire and the world to enjoy.

The Baker River Valley encompasses a relatively little known region
of New Hampshire, the Granite State, yet is a picturesque area winding
through the mountains and small towns from Plymouth to Warren. Rich
in scenery and history, this valley holds appeal any time of year.

The towns generally are small, but typically New England, with village
commons, stately trees, and colonial homes, set against the backdrop
of the mountains, with Mt. Stinson and Mooselauke looming over all.

Named For Capt. Baker

The river and valley acquired their name from Capt. Thomas Baker, who
supposedly was the first white man to explore the area. He made a scouting
trip through this uninhabited wilderness in 1712.

An encounter with the natives at the confluence of the Baker and Pemigewasset
Rivers, just north of the current village of Plymouth, resulted in the
loss of some soldiers and also a number of Indians. This encounter discouraged
further exploration and settlement of the region until after the French
and Indian War. The towns in this valley generally were settled in the
1760s.

Warren

Warren at the upper end of the valley, was granted in 1764 and named
for Sir Peter Warren, a vice-admiral of the British Navy and a member
of Parliament. Like so many New Hampshire towns, Warren was named for
an Englishman who never visited the area.

Wentworth

This town received its charter in 1766 and for years celebrated an
interesting tradition called, "Market Day," held in the town
common in August. The Wentworth Historical Society discovered that the
original town charter provided for an annual market day so long as the
town contained more than 50 families.

Rumney

Further down the valley, Rumney was settled. It’s thought by
some to have been named for a town in England called Romney although
this isn't known for sure. If so, gradually over the years, the pronunciation
and then the spelling was changed.

Near the Plymouth/Rumney town line, you'll find Polar Caves with some
of America’s most fascinating glacial caves.

Plymouth

The largest village in the valley at the juncture of the Baker and
Pemigewasset Rivers, Plymouth is the home of Plymouth State College
with its many cultural activities. With a historic village green, the
site of a famous Boy Scout statue, Plymouth also lies along I-93 which
provides easy access from Massachusetts to the White Mountains.

When you visit this area, you'll find lovely scenery and typical New
England towns, unique shops and restaurants.

Rural country means different things to different people.
To those of us living in New Hampshire, we think of sparsely populated
hills and forests some distance from towns and cities.
In Arizona, I discovered, it means desert and traveling for miles through
arid country which can be fascinating too.
On one trip to the West, Jim and I drove from Phoenix, AZ to Las Vegas,
NV through the
southwestern desert landscape. During the 300-mile drive, the countryside
changed from the fairly flat typical desert terrain to a more rolling
area and then the hillier landscape with its canyons around Lake Mead.
Each area was different and presented its own fascinating phenomena
to capture our attention.

The Fascinating Saguaro

The towering saguaro cacti grow around Phoenix and for some distance
north. The saguaro stand like sentinels in the desert, often 25 to 40-feet
high with spiky arms branching off the main stream as well as stretching
upward.
The saguaro grows slowly and will be around eight feet tall and between
45 and 55 years old before it puts out its first arms. Some live to
be 100 to 200 years old.
This desert plant also is home for a variety of birds who build nests
within holes first made by the gilded flickers and gila woodpeckers.
Years ago, the Papago Indians used the red colored fruit of the saguaro,
which usually ripens in June. They made it into syrup, wine, vinegar,
oil, flour, jam, and dehydrated pulp. (In gift shops, you may find jars
of saguaro jam and jelly.)

The Joshua Tree

As we approached the Joshua Tree Forest, along the Joshua Tree Parkway,
the landscape became more rolling and these unusual bristly trees begin
to appear. They grow only in certain arid areas of the southwestern
United States, 2,000 to 6,000 feet above sea level.
Not a forest as we think of one in the east with thick growth of trees
and underbrush, the Joshua Tree Forest contains desert plants and Joshua
trees scattered across the landscape. The Joshua Tree, sometimes called
the yucca cactus, yucca tree, or yucca palm, can live to be 100 to 1,000
years old, grows slowly and isn't extremely tall.
Typical of one portion of the Southwest, Arizona's desert is a sampling
of what we've discovered in this fascinating state.

A breathtaking sight lay before us as my husband and I stood at the
top of Logan Pass and looked north toward Bear Lake, spread out like
an aquamarine jewel on the Utah/Idaho border.
Our cousin, who was our guide, explained that her family has a camp
on the lake shore, and spends weekends here, about three hours' drive
from Salt Lake City.

Utah Has Long History

Utah's history goes back to the dinosaurs; two of North America's largest
dinosaur graveyards are found in the state. Trappers and mountain men
passed through this region and spent much time in the Bear Lake area,
where some of their summer trading rendezvous took place. In 1847, the
Mormons entered the state after an arduous trek west.

Site of 2002 Olympics

The historic aura of Bear Lake still exists and lures one here as it
did the Mountain Men in those days when beaver trapping was in its heyday.
Now that Utah has been selected as the site of the 2002 Olympics, more
people than ever want to discover the appeal of the Beehive State. Two
general routes from Salt Lake City to Bear Lake take the traveler through
mountain country...through Ogden Canyon or Logan Canyon. It can be a
leisurely one day drive; or you can plan to spend more time and stay
over enroute.

Our Day Trip

We started in early morning, winding over mountain roads and through
scenic territory with golden aspen leaves in full color. After traversing
the Wasatch Range east of Ogden, we wandered through ranching country
near the Wyoming border. A herd of antelope caught our attention and
provided enjoyment for a quarter of an hour.
We had lunch at a restaurant at Bear Lake. Then the trip from Bear Lake
over Logan Pass and its hairpin turns and breathtaking scenery was a
great way to return to the Ogden/Salt lake City region. Exploration
of Cache Valley around Logan we left for another day, but we enjoyed
the sweeping views as we made our way out of the mountains.

Discover Salt Lake City

Leave at least a day in your itinerary for discovering Salt Lake City
itself. You actually need longer to do all the sites justice, but if
time is limited, you may want to explore the buildings around Temple
Square. Guided tours of the area will provide you with much information
of historical interest about the Mormons who settled here.

Hiking a Popular Activity

For hikers, there are many places to stretch your legs, from short
afternoon hikes to longer backpacking trips. Since time was limited,
we opted for the afternoon hike with a friend in the mountains east
of Salt Lake City.
Even though we weren't far from the city, we enjoyed the sense of isolation
and the extensive views.

Kennecott Copper Mine

While you're in the area, make time to visit the Kennecott Copper Mine,
the largest open pit mine in the world. We spent a morning touring this
site with our friend and were awed by the huge two-mile diameter hole
in the earth. We watched trucks, minuscule in appearance from so far
below us, haul ore like ants climbing the routes to the top.
From exhibits and a video at the information center, we learned more
about this mining operation and history of Bingham Canyon.

Utah Lures Us Back

Our first week's exploration of Utah in autumn provided us with an
opportunity to touch only the tip of what the state offers. So Utah
has lured us back repeatedly to discover new sites and meet new friends.

During our wanderings throughout the west, Jim and I have discovered
the fascinating trail of explorers Lewis and Clark in Idaho and Montana.
Everyone probably has heard of their expedition in the early 1800s,
when they traveled across the continent looking for a transportation
link between the newly acquired Lousiana Territory and the "Oregon
Country" on the Pacific coast. However, when exploring actual areas
where they traveled, their explorations become most fascinating.

History Comes Alive

While visiting friends near Salmon, Idaho we found we could walk over
portions of the trail where the Lewis and Clark Expedition traveled.
Obtaining copies of their journals and reading of their adventure added
greatly to this experience of making history come alive.
At Lemhi Pass in the Bitterroots, we stood at the spot where the expedition,
with its young Indian guide Sacajawea, crossed over the Continental
Divide by following a native trail.
"...we proceeded on to the top of the dividing ridge...now descended
the mountain...found much steeper than on the opposite side," described
Captain Lewis.

On the Continental Divide

We stood here, too, more than 175 years later, on the Continental Divide
separating present day Idaho and Montana. We gazed at the remote country
which is much like it was when these early explorers discovered it.
We and our friend Jane reached this spot by driving over a narrow dirt
road which wound through the mountains, offering breathtaking views
(and I do mean "breath" taking because there are no guard
rails) of more mountains beyond and steep canyons below.

Into the Lemhi River Valley

From here the expedition (The Corps of Discovery as they were sometimes
called) trod downward to the Lemhi River Valley and followed it until
they reached the Salmon River (that famous white water rafting river
called the "River of No Return") which Clark attempted to
travel against the Indians' advice and discovered it indeed impassable
for their canoes.
In this valley, too, Sacajawea amazingly was reunited with her brother
whom she hadn't seen since she was a child.
(Read next about the Lewis & Clark Trail in Montana)

After Jim and I explored the Lewis and Clark Trail in the Salmon, Idaho
area, we found more of this historic route in Montana. The Corps of
Discovery made their way to the Salmon River, then headed northward
to the area now known as Lost Trail Pass, another border point between
Idaho and Montana.
(The previous one on the Continental Divide is described in the article
about the trail in Idaho.)
This is know as Lost Trail Pass because supposedly the explorers lost
the trail here and passed a few miles to the west over even more difficult
mountainous country. From here, they dropped down into the valley along
the Bitterroots and proceeded northward near present day Missoula before
continuing west.

The Bitterroot Valley

As we traveled along this picturesque valley, we tried to imagine here,
too, as we'd done in Idaho, what the country was like for these adventurers
as they covered territory apparently
known to no other white men.
At Travelers Rest, just south of Missoula, the Expedition camped on
their journey west and again when they returned nine months later.
After visiting friends near Missoula, we headed eastward through Butte,
Bozeman, and Billings. In the area around Livingston and Bozeman, north
of Yellowstone National Park, we again encountered Lewis and Clark territory
where they, too, had made their way eastward.

Following the Whole Trail

We discovered that one can follow the Lewis and Clark Trail from its
beginning near St. Louis to the Pacific. A map/guide is available noting
the route of the Expedition and pointing out various sites of interest.
This has been compiled through the efforts of the National Park Service
and Lewis and Clark Trail Heritage Foundation.
For those who are as fascinated by the history of our rural areas, as
Jim and I are, following all or portions of the Lewis and Clark Trail
should provide an exciting adventure.

Travelers find Sandwich Notch a fascinating place to explore, particularly
if they enjoy the wilderness of the White Mountains and would like to
recapture the aura of some of New Hampshire's early days. As you wander
along the hilly, winding dirt road through the notch which connects
the regions around Sandwich and Waterville Valley, you seem so far from
civilization and can glimpse the unspoiled natural beauty of the Granite
State.
You can hike part of the way and take other hiking trails which branch
off this road. Or if you're more adventuresome, place cars at each end
of the Sandwich Notch Road and walk the full length...approximately
nine miles.
Two books you might want to read before you travel this mountain road
are "The Road Through Sandwich Notch" by Elizabeth Yates (relating
her walk along this route and her explorations of its history) and the
"Appalachian Mountain Club White Mountain Guide."

Road Once Heavily Traveled

Although Sandwich Notch now seems isolated (there is only one old house
left standing and inhabited at the western end of the road), it once
was a busy place. More than 30 families lived along this road in the
early and middle l800s; a thriving settlement existed, and the heavily
traveled road (for those days) was maintained.
The Sandwich Notch Road once was an important commercial roadway over
which carts and wagons passed in summer and sleds in winter. During
this era, farmers in northern New Hampshire and Vermont brought their
produce across the mountain road as they took it to market in the coastal
cities of Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Portland, Maine.

Settled in the 1700's

The town of Sandwich was settled in 1765; by 1795 a widely used cart
track had been established through the Notch. Eventually a tax of two
cents an acre on all Sandwich lands was levied to pay for construction
of a road from Sandwich, across the Notch to Thornton, near Waterville
Valley.
Then settlement of the Notch began in earnest. Land was cleared and
eventually 30 to 40 houses were built. Three schools, a sawmill, gristmill,
and tavern were erected. Church services were held at Pulpit Rock or
in the minister's house.
The farms were fertile in this hill country, and gardens produced well.
Cattle and sheep grazed in the pastures. The land along the road wasn't
forested, as it is today, but cleared and open, crisscrossed by stone
walls, the remnants of which you can see today.
Over this road, cattle were driven from the hill country to the seacoast
markets, creating a sight which brought children to the roadside to
view the event. Farmers who needed money for goods other than what they
could grow on their farms, drove their ox carts across the Notch Road
as they brought their goods to markets.

Settlers Left the Notch

By the mid-1850s, the climax of life in the Notch had arrived. Population
began to decline after the Civil War as the young people looked elsewhere
to earn a living in the mills of Massachusetts and on the lands of the
Mid-west.
As the remaining settlers grew older, they began to cut down on the
amount of land they farmed.
Gradually the farms were taken over by the forest. The schools were
no longer needed, and the saw mills and taverns ceased to exist.

One House Remains

Only one house remains standing from those built many years ago. The
original structure went up in 1826; this latter became the woodhouse
of the present larger house erected by Alpheus Munsey Hall in l877.
Moses Hall lived here for most of his 84 years before his death in 1930.
Take time this fall to wander along the Sandwich Notch Road and the
adjoining hiking trails and discover the enchantment of the White Mountains
and their history. Other abandoned "ghost" settlements can
be found in these mountains as well.

Midst the grandeur of western Wyoming's Tetons, numerous experiences
await the visitor from downhill skiing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling,
and snowshoeing, to feeding the elk and exploring the unique town of
Jackson. Jackson Hole in winter lures travelers from around the country
and around the world.

The Tetons, jagged peaks rising steeply from the valley floor for more
than 6,000 feet, to reach an altitude nearly 14,000 feet above sea level.

They provide some of the most sensational scenery and enjoyable skiing
in the world.

Historic Aura

Jackson Hole is high on beauty and rich in history, as well as diverse
skiing. Named for mountain man Davy Jackson, who heralded it as his
favorite beaver trapping ground, this "hole," as those early
adventurers called a valley, is approximately eight miles wide by 50
miles long.

For those who remember, the movie "Shane" was filmed in this
lovely valley.

Three Ski Areas

With three major ski areas in the vicinity...Grand Targhee on the western
side of the mountains, Jackson Mountain Resort west of town, and Snow
King Resort to the south...Jackson Hole offers downhill skiing to suit
every ability level. Then you have helicopter skiing for the more adventuresome
who wish to experience what the untracked mountain slopes of the rugged
Tetons have to offer.

When the mountains are mantled in snow, Grand Teton National Park and
the Bridger-Teton National Forest also provide great terrain for snowmobiling,
snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing, with Yellowstone National Park
not far away. Miles of trails allow the skier and snowmobiler access
to the base of the towering snow-covered Tetons.

Or you can ride into the Gros Ventre Range on the east where you'll
catch a glimpse of the unforgettable panorama of the entire Jackson
Hole valley.

National Elk Refuge

Another unique feature of Jackson Hole is the National Elk Refuge.
Begun in 1912, when elk herds were dwindling as a result of disease
and increased ranching, this has evolved into a major attraction in
the valley. Sleigh rides through the refuge provide a great experience
and a photographer's dream.

For the visitor who doesn't care for snow activities, but wants to
enjoy a winter vacation in Jackson Hole, there's shopping, dining, night
spots, and, of course, the scenery.

Stop at the Jackson Hole & Greater Yellowstone Park Visitors Center
for information and to enjoy the educational dioramas and museum displays.

Located north of the village, the Visitors Center is unique in itself.

Lure of Its Own

Jackson Hole, south of Yellowstone National Park, has a splendor all
its own, and during the winter is transformed into a scenic playground
with the amenities of civilization and the lure of history and pristine
backcountry wilderness.

Whenever I encounter old-fashioned country stores in my travels, whether
they're restored ones to appeal to travelers or those still existing
in a small village to supply the residents, I'm reminded of my mom’s
experiences as a country store owner.

Country stores are becoming rather unique in these days of shopping
malls, super stores, and online shopping, but a few still exist throughout
the country.

During my childhood and teen years, the country general store was a
necessary fixture of the community, along with the mail order catalogs.
In my early years, the general store in the village, about a mile from
home, furnished our needs...from food we didn't grow to supplies for
the home and farm.

Mother Acquires a Country Store

In my last year of high school, Mother became a storekeeper and brought
the general store right into our family. She became a competitor with
the country store in the village, where we had shopped throughout my
childhood.

When the former manager of this little country store that my dad built
had a heart attack, Father expected to put it up for sale. It had been
an investment which now needed a manager. However, Mother, a former
school teacher, insisted she would operate it.

Mother expected my sister and me to help her. We learned to cut meat
and cheese, dip ice cream, plan orders, keep books, smile at customers,
stock shelves and take charge when Mother was away. Mother’s Town
and Country Store was a new dimension to our lives.

Today’s Country Stores vs. Yesterday’s

You'll find today’s country stores in small villages and historic
restorations. Check out tourism guides and chambers of commerce to discover
where you might find some to visit and shop.

See if they have penny candy, pickle barrels, cheese wheels, hand dipped
ice cream, sewing notions, post cards, hardware, and a storekeeper who’s
knowledgeable about what’s going on in town.

Years later, after Mother sold her store, her customers would seek
her out to visit and reminisce. They've also told me that the friendliness
and personal concern she showed drew them back when they could have
shopped at larger stores in the next town.area, you'll find lovely scenery
and typical New England towns, unique shops and restaurants.

Mary Emma Allen's books, available by contacting the author/illustrator
at me.allen@juno.com or visiting her web site where you'll find further
description and an order form: http//homepage.fcgnetworks.net/jetent/mea

2. Tales of Adventure & Discovery Coloring Book, containing illustrations
and excerpts from the anthology, by Mary Emma Allen, published by MEA
Productions; $1.95 plus postage, or $1.00 when purchased with the anthology.

3. When We Become the Parent to Our Parents, the chronicle of her mother's
journey through Alzheimer's, written/illustrated by Mary Emma Allen,
MEA Productions; $9.95 plus postage.

4. Writing in Maine, New Hampshire & Vermont, a resource book for
writers, publishers, librarians, and teachers, written by Mary Emma
Allen, published by Writer's World Press. Regularly $16.95 plus postage,
now $9.95 plus postage. (The publisher is celebrating their 10th anniversary
and offering specials on their books.)

5. The Magic of Patchwork, the story of quiltmaking with directions
for beginners' projects, written/illustrated by Mary Emma Allen, published
by MEA Productions; $8.00 plus postage.