Anyone else have this problem? From time to time the jibsheet catches on the front mast cleat where the main halyard is tied off. Damn pain.

Would it be a problem to remove the forward mast cleat and put it on the back of the mast, or even just remove it and tie the halyard off on the downhaul cleat? Surely so long as the metal clip on the halyard to locked into the slot near the top of the mast this would not be a problem???

_________________Hobie 14 Turbo, based in Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand

I have this problem as well. It can be really irritating. I found that the best way to stop this happening was to tension the loose sheet before trying to release the other sheet. This seems to prevent it catching as there is less loose line around.

I adapted a stretchable knee brace with positionable velcro for the situation. When everything's set and I'm ready to go, I wrap the knee brace over the cleat and around the mast. It's "Easy On & Easy Off".

This "sheet catching" problem didn't happen each tack, but often enough that it was annoying - and warranted this inexpensive and easy "fix"...

On H18's, what we do to avoid the jib sheet snagging in the base of the mast, is to tie a bungee cord from the one end of the front cross bar, diagonally up to the bottom of the diamond wires, then down diagonally to the other end of the front cross bar. (Or dolphin striker, which ever works best for you.)

Of course, when rigging the jib sheets, make sure they are laid on top of this bungee pyramid. While H14's have no diamond wires, I am sure you can rig some form of attachment to achieve the same effect.

Happy Holidays and good winds.

_________________1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

1. Eliminated the top/bottom horns on the front cleat and then attach a bungee line between the cleat the the forestay extender. (keeps the jib lines away from the mast base as they come across, an alternative to the crossbar bungee method which work well also).

2. Installed a new cleat on the side of the mast (similar to a Hobie 16).

3. Installed a jib halyard line cleat hook (similar to a Hobie 16) mid-way up on the side of the mast. Retains the line along the same side of the mast as the new cleat.

What I have done on my 17 with reacher (blocks are 18" off rear crossbar on tramp tracks) is run a piece of bungee from corner of front crossbar up to a loop type connector attached to front of mast about 3 feet up and back to other side of crossbar. This keeps the sheets away from mast and works fine.

Reckon the knee brace idea (above) or similar approach is the simplest and the best...I just cut of the leg of an old wetsuit -- slide it on before stepping, then roll it down a bit while rigging, then roll up over the cleat and the loose halyard.

Do address the other hang up point at the mast base. Downright scary to tack in high winds only to see your jib backwinded and the sheet snagged in the mast base. Bitchin' to get it to release at that point.

I have a 14T and recently have been using a cross of gaffer's tape on the halyard cleat. I store the halyard coil secured to the dolphin-striker with the same short piece of cord I use to secure the jib on the beach.

1. Eliminated the top/bottom horns on the front cleat and then attach a bungee line between the cleat the the forestay extender. (keeps the jib lines away from the mast base as they come across, an alternative to the crossbar bungee method which work well also).

2. Installed a new cleat on the side of the mast (similar to a Hobie 16).

3. Installed a jib halyard line cleat hook (similar to a Hobie 16) mid-way up on the side of the mast. Retains the line along the same side of the mast as the new cleat.