Definite Simcoe hops, starting off as almost-but-not-quite-catty and almost-but-not-quite-skunky before settling down somewhat – and I don’t mean that in a negative way: it tiptoes right up to the line, but stops just shy of being offensive. The net effect is one of decent complexity and depth in a pleasing APA. Kind of odd that the ABV is as high as it is for the style, but it’s not intrusive, and manifests only as a mild warming. (14/20)