Just for reference,1lb = 454g. That'd dry it out a bit,if you like a bit of crispness on the back. I wouldn't go with the crystal 60L myself. It'd make the normal orange/amber color you'd get with the can & DME more of a dark amber. Unless that's what you're shooting for.
Otherwise the OS draught is a good base to work with. Also quite interesting,I found that Midwest Supplies - Homebrewing and Winemaking Carries the Cooper's ale yeast in 15g packets. Look it up under dry yeast to see what it looks like. I ordered a few of them for my batches. They'll likely be fresher,& the increased volume may give better/faster results. I'll be trying them this week when my supplies come in.

Melt/mix/dissolve the DME into as much water as I dare to put in the pot I have. Bring to the boil, lower to just under the boil, add the hops (2oz/50g?) add the crystal if I'm using it and/or the syrup and maintain the temp below boil over for what? 60mins?

Take off the heat, tip into the bin through a strainer, add the coopers tin, add any extra sugar, add a kettle of boiling water to aid mixing/disolving then fill with cold water to 23lt.

Melt/mix/dissolve the DME into as much water as I dare to put in the pot I have. Bring to the boil, lower to just under the boil, add the hops (2oz/50g?) add the crystal if I'm using it and/or the syrup and maintain the temp below boil over for what? 60mins?

Take off the heat, tip into the bin through a strainer, add the coopers tin, add any extra sugar, add a kettle of boiling water to aid mixing/disolving then fill with cold water to 23lt.

I'm positive I have lot of that completely wrong

I use a 5 gallon (19L) ss stock pot. I typically boil 2.5-3 gallons of water for the boil (something like 10L I think). Use a floating thermometer in the pot,tied to the pot's handle. Put you grains in a grain sack,tied to the handle as well,or put a cake cooling rack in the bottom of the pot that'll fit. This keeps the grains/sack from burning on the bottom.
Get the grains/water up to between 150-160F (you'll have to convert temps).
Maintain this temp range & steep for about 30 mins. At the end of that time,you can prop a strainer over the pot,put the grain bag in it,a pour a teapot full of hot water over the grains,but no more than 170F water.
Then raise temp,take out thermometer. Bring to a boil. As it comes close to boiling,you'll get a foamy hot break,so keep a spray bottle of water & your spoon handy. The spray mist & stiring will help keep the foam down for the 3 minutes or so it'll last.
Then add the DME & do your hop additions. Since the cooper's can is pre-hopped with bittering only,you can just boil the hops for 25 minutes. In other words,1oz @ 25,minutes,the 2nd ounce at 12-15 minutes from the end.
At flame out,add the remaining fermentables & stir very well to make sure non is sitting on the bottom. Allow to steep,covered,for 10-15 minutes. Then chill down to pitch temp. Pour through fine mesh strainer into the fermenter,dito with top off water. The strainer will not only get the grainy bits out,but aerate all pretty well. Look for 3-5 inches of foam at this point.
Then stir roughly for 5 solid minutes to mix well,& aerate further. Take hydrometer sample for OG. Pitch yeast & seal fermenter. Hope this makes things clearer.

Yeah,a 1 gallon pot is def too small for this method. Too much contration of the DME added would lower hop utilization. And any hop additions must be boiled to extract bittering,aroma,or flavor.
A 4 gallon pot,in my experience,is minimum for partial boils.