Yeah SAE is like 293
For the same run, my uncorrected is actually 299 and it was a pretty average South Florida day....humidity and warm - it was mid summer.

Interesting how your turning that much w/o the intake spacer and no-catback/mufflers...

What was your baseline stock? I started from like 267 (SAE)

baseline, bone stock, was 273.3/298.5 SAE. the run conditions on my tune day were 76F 28.79in-Hg, and 32% humidity, so a bit more humid than average arizona day...

I also have 4.30s, 31 spline axles/tlok, and 10.5" wheels, which add quite a bit of unsprung weight, eating up a few hp. I figure an aluminum driveshaft and later on a flywheel will offset those

Quote:

Originally Posted by southbeachmach1

What the CAI look like? What's the design?

Most Mach's baseline around 270 rwhp, I find it hard to believe that a chip and a CAI would generate 30+ rwhp on a stock mach with no exhaust.

i agree. however, i can sort of see it happen, but not with a safe tune, and maybe on a factory freak (i've seen a few machs dyno 285s stock). Keep in mind, this is Steeda, where underdrive pulleys add 12hp, and the same company that tried to market flexible subframe connectors...

My mach ran good when I bought it, but I had to put the parts on. First I put on my Catted prochamber, it made a little difference. Second I put on my C&l 85mm mass air and and intake tube, once again could tell a difference. Next I welded cutouts in front of my mufflers, made a noticable difference. Next I switched to Royal Purple synthetic, some say it makes a difference and some say it doesn't, well I'm a believer my engine ran a little smoother and maybe hair more performance. Next I repalced stock catback and cutouts with Borla Stingers not much different than having cutouts open. Sixth removed cats by welding pipes in place, once again noticable difference in performance and sound. Next I put Steeda underdrive pullies on, I could not tell a difference. Last I got Tim Barth at Modular Powerhouse to dyno tune my car using SCT flasher, big difference. Baseline dyno with all mods except SCT tune I put down 303rwhp STD but corrected it came to 291rwhp SAE and 316rwtq SAE. After a few pulls to get timing and air/fuel corrected (was 14 to 1 or higher) The new numbers came out at 308rwhp SAE. We decided to let engine cool down and see how high the numbers would go. With air/fuel set at 13 to 1 give or take a little my car put down 312.6rwhp SAE and 339.9rwtq SAE. That is how I got into the 300rwhp game.

Get a JLT RAI and an intake spacer.... cheap mods and easy to install you should get at least 10 RWHP and some more torque. I personally think the C&L is not a good idea so I haven't messed with it. That Borla Stinger seems to be helping, and not just making it louder. I may change the catback out eventually. I like the sound and look of the bassani pipes, but the dyno's numbers is where it all counts.

I'm doing php spacer next month, still debating hooker long tubes, knooks longtubes, or bassani midlength. Eventually electric waterpump and a kenne bell boost-a-spark. I want to try and get to 335rwhp SAE with boltons. It might be possible, only one way to find out. I think the Borla catback outflows bassani catback, I noticed my Borla stingers are 3 inch mufflers fitted to 2.5 inch pipe. I do like the sound of bassani pipes better. I'm curious about if JLT pipe and if x pipe would make more HP but I do not want to lose any torque.

I have the C&L on my car and it ran a bit lean but i could feel a difference in performance. However, James over at Runnin With The Devil thinks that is worthless and told me that the stock maf is good till 400 hp and the screen isnt a restriction until the 350 hp mark. I think ill listen to james and put the stock maf in but leave the screen out. I always felt that throtle improved with the screen out. James sad that that would be ok. It sucks that i have to take the C&L out, but if the custom tune will give me more power without it, then ill gladly take it out.

The PHP intake spacer goes underneith the upper part of your intake manifold. It raises the top cover of the intake manifold up about 1/2 inch. I believe this allows a greater volume of air into the intake (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Its a cheap and well worth it do it yourself mod.

The only part that sucks about the install is getting that darn EGR to mount back up correctly. Let me know if you need pictures.

i agree. however, i can sort of see it happen, but not with a safe tune, and maybe on a factory freak (i've seen a few machs dyno 285s stock). Keep in mind, this is Steeda, where underdrive pulleys add 12hp, and the same company that tried to market flexible subframe connectors...

Fosters - on your indirect recomendation, I took my car to Az Dyno chip. Dynoed 282 with a k&n drop in. 296ish with mac o/r pro and exhaust. Still trying to work out some bottle issues to get her over 400...

guys, I have been reading your blog i have heard of many mustangs dyno at 265 and some at 280. I have been slowly modifying mine i have SLP cat back, K&N slip in filter with the fender tube removed, and i ported my intake from top to bottom, currently i ampersuing a 10psi procharger system, and a tru x pipe maybe a DR.gas. anyone try a DR.GAS?
04 MACH_MAN