Help me with this Promaster.

Updates: I've moved this from the Indian Creek page to here where it belongs and bought a few things in the meantime. I now have a Shocktech (Black/blue) on the way and am considering buying the Kila ball detents. I'd just like to know if the Kila detents are as hard to install as I've been reading. (Anyone?) Also, I've read that any Freestyle trigger will fit in the Promaster, but from what I've seen on the inside of it, I can't be sure if that's right. Advise on that, please.

So just to sum it up, still need help with detents/plates, trigger, and front regulator.

See below for original post:

So, I'm working out at the field this last weekend and I'm going through the garbage gun pile in the back since it's been too long since my last search, and I come across this guy:
After fighting off a rather perturbed spider who was none to happy about losing his home, I cleaned it up, lubed it up, replace and o-ring and two hoses on the inside. Shoots nice, but it's still stuck on the 14bps limit they put on these things.

So here's the deal: I looked online and saw all the sick things that people have done to these guys, and have decided this is my next project gun. Only problem is that I know nothing of these guys. I was only able to repair it thanks to common sense and a lot of experience with guns (We own a paintball field, so I should hope that I'm pretty experienced with them.). Beyond that, all I knew was that it was a Promaster. I don't know the exact model or what parts are compatible with it, or where I'd even be able to get my hands on said parts. So, before I turn to custom milling ($Expensive$), I'm turning to y'all. Any help on identifying it and selecting of parts would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to turn this ordinary guy into wreck incarnate.

Few things: I'm going for a blue theme. I already bought the black freak back and the blue freak front for it, a blue CP feedneck, (probably, got a better suggestion? -->) a blue cp reg, a tiny blue drop forward and a blue on/off valve, and some milled, blue aluminum grip plates.

Need help getting: Blue/cooler looking regulator on the front, a blue trigger, blue bolt and/or blue bolt pin. I'd be open to to suggestions on getting a new trigger frame.

I'm also open to info suggestions; by that I mean good sites or pages to look at for info on these guns.

So yeah, long post, and unsure that anyone will read it. I'm not new to paintball in any regard, but I'm new to the site and this gun, so this'll be a good learning post.

I'll toss out what I can, and I'm sure that others will swing by as well. Your best bet to find parts and what not is to head over to icd-owners.com. The PM is a great gun once you get it lined out. Is it a gloss or a Dust finish? if it's gloss, it's a regular PM, if it's Dust, it's a Lasoya. Internally, they are almpst identical, barring the board. I don't know anything about the Kila Detents. the FreeStyle triggers will fit. I'm assuming by front reg you mean the LPR. AKA sells new SCMIIIs that fit, and I think you can still get Rocks from PPS. Both are great regs, and both come in any color you want as long as you want black. If you are set on a blue one, check the BST over at ICDO, you might find a stock one. Bushmaster LPRs fit, with a caveat. The tolerances on the PMs were not as good on the threading as the Bushmasters, so some Bushmaster LPRs need the threads slightly filed to fit the PM front block. I think CP may have made a blue trigger, but I can't swear to it. The bolt pins are steel, so no luck there. You can dye your bolt to get that cool blue look.

Once you get it lined out and shooting good, you might want to look at a better flowing valve. the stock is okay, but the MacDev Red valve is a much better setup. Valves are identical to the Bushmaster.

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I now have a Shocktech (Black/blue) on the way and am considering buying the Kila ball detents. I'd just like to know if the Kila detents are as hard to install as I've been reading. (Anyone?)

Have no experience with the upgraded detents, but at the same time I haven't heard of too many people complaining about them (okay, other than Prea's thread about a month ago)
If you really just want some matching blue panels to accent the marker then you could post up in the parts swapping thread or post a Want To Buy thread.
PBN swap threadhttp://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...267661&page=26

If you're going to get some Kila detents anyway or you feel like upgrading something else via Kila then you might want to look at upgrading the board too. The lastest Kila Drive board has a cap can go down to 5bps and has a number of other helpful settings (debounce being one) that can keep the Promaster tourney legal. http://www.kilaproducts.com/product....&sid=21&pid=35

I think VDub answered most of the other questions about the LPR (front reg) and triggers and bolt and whatnot.

Thanks for your help, guys, I think I've got enough info for now. And I was kinda unclear in my update. I bought a superfly bolt from shocktech that's blue/black and has a blue bolt pin, so that's covered. (At least, I hope so. Everywhere I've looked online I read that the superfly for the bushmaster also worked in the promaster. Also, Shocktech's site seemed kinda outdated and the payment process seemed.... off. Lol, here's hoping they've actually got the bolt.) Anyways, if you still wanna drop any hints as to parts you might know about, feel free, otherwise, in about two weeks I should have the first batch of parts gathered up and installed. Will post pics. I'm sure it'll look real nice.

I am considering buying the Kila ball detents. I'd just like to know if the Kila detents are as hard to install as I've been reading. (Anyone?) Also, I've read that any Freestyle trigger will fit in the Promaster, but from what I've seen on the inside of it, I can't be sure if that's right. Advise on that, please.

So just to sum it up, still need help with detents/plates, trigger, and front regulator.

Few things: I'm going for a blue theme. I already bought the black freak back and the blue freak front for it, a blue CP feedneck, (probably, got a better suggestion? -->) a blue cp reg, a tiny blue drop forward and a blue on/off valve, and some milled, blue aluminum grip plates.

Need help getting: Blue/cooler looking regulator on the front, a blue trigger, blue bolt and/or blue bolt pin. I'd be open to to suggestions on getting a new trigger frame.

I'm also open to info suggestions; by that I mean good sites or pages to look at for info on these guns.

It would help to post up some pics of your Promaster so we can see what you've got.

Shocktech bolts are alright, I have a couple. The only problems I've found with them is they are a little small for the upper tube (leaving lots of room for blowback/loss of pressure while firing). I've simply corrected that by adding o-rings to mine. Also, I don't care for the venturi face they put on them, so I bored mine out to just be open-face.

Kila detents have worked fine for me, I've used them on both regular and Lasoya Promasters. Some people have complained of them not fitting properly over the eyes but I've not had a problem. There is a trick to getting the eye, eye holder, and detent to stay in place when you put the cover on (the magnet in the cover makes the detent want to jump out of place while you're trying to align it), but once you get the hang of it it's not too tricky.

As others mentioned, you don't have a lot of options for LPR's. Most aftermarket ones come only in black (though I believe Macdev Sonic LPR's came in other colors, at least I know I have seen a silver one, but they are hard to find). You could try looking for a parted out Promaster or Bushmaster LPR.

You say you already bought a blue CP feedneck? Which threading type did you buy? CP doesn't make one specifically for the Promaster or Bushmaster (typically, Promasters take Bushmaster feednecks). You could try an Ion threaded one, Promasters will sometimes take Ion threaded necks. Personally, I have used an AKA Bushy neck, a CCM Bushy neck, and a Warrior Ion feedneck. All of them have worked fine for me. Personally, I like the AKA best, then the CCM, but neither of them come with a lever-lock, so you need an allen key to get your hopper off. AKA also only comes in black. CCM you could get in black/blue, so it would match your color combo well. AKA and CCM necks are also shorter; the majority of Ion necks are going to be taller. Although, you can find any color Ion neck you want and can get a lever-lock; however, be advised that the threads may not hold in as well. So, lots of pros/cons there, take a look around and see what strikes your fancy.

For a new trigger I'd definitely recommend the CP Freestyle one, my personal favorite. I've actually got a gloss blue one I'd sell to you; if you're interested PM me though, let's keep the B/S/T out of the thread.

For a new trigger frame you are talking a lot more work; swapping the frame on a Promaster is not as easy as it is with most other markers, due to the construction of the body and frame. If you want to put a different frame on it you'd pretty much have to mill a custom tray (which ironically defeats the purpose since the Promaster was basically designed to be a trayless Bushmaster). It has been done; somebody on ICD-O just put a UL frame on one here, and the pic on the first page of the Promaster with the DM5 Fierce frame is actually mine. It does take a lot of time, money, know-how, and the proper tools.

I think I answered most of your questions. If you have any others just let us know; it's been dead around the Promaster forums lately, there should be plenty of people lurking around just itching to offer advise.

For God does speak—now one way, now another—though no one perceives it. In a dream, in a vision of the night, when deep sleep falls on people as they slumber in their beds, he may speak in their ears and terrify them with warnings Job 33:14-16

Thanks everyone. If I need parts, I'll PM y'all, but for now, I've ordered the trigger through our field (Cheaper that way.), but thanks for the offer on the trigger. As for the CP feed neck, I tried out the one that's on my impulse and it went on just fine. Even shot it to make sure it didn't obstruct anything. And thanks for the advice on the bolt. I'll see how it works off go before I start making any permanent adjustments to it.

So, for now, I've got all the info I've really asked for (Unless anyone spots a blue LPR. Any kind of tip off on that would be nice. I'll do some searching myself.) So thanks guys! Feel free to to leave anything else you'd like to say, but for now I'm solid. Give me a week or two and I'll be posting pics of it with the first wave of parts installed.

You should've seen it when I first found it. I had to take lighter fluid to it to remove some staining and extract spider eggs from the feed neck...

Just for you more observant onlookers, that is in fact an original mini barrel. My mini's got a freak on it atm. (I'm a freak freak. I don't know how many fans of the freak usually have, but I've got five full barrels, two insert kits, and some extra ends. But, I mean, aren't they awesome? )

Well it looks like I'm buying a crammer anyways. (My main marker is an Agnel a1, btw, but I use all of my guns pretty routinely, so this one will seem play time at least once a month. I'm more of a... collector. This'll be my first by indian creek. Getting off topic.) So yeah, I said I replaced the o-ring on the silver valve coming out of the ram, but when I listened harder, I realized that wasn't the only leak. The little brass line out (that you apparently can't remove) had the tiniest crack in it. Great. So now I gotta drop $60 on a crammer. Well, I guess it was gonna happen anyways at some point.

By silver valve on the ram, I am assuming you are referring to the QEV, and the brass one would be a standard hose barb. Yes, it is removable; they are set in place with loctite thread sealant, so to remove it you need to apply some heat. A lighter or pencil torch will work. Get it nice and hot, then grab the barb with a pair of pliers and twist it out. More often then not doing this ruins the barb, but since yours is damaged anyways that won't be a problem. Then you just need a new barb, which should only cost you a few dollars.

Still waiting on bolt (Which will be blue/white, the sales rep claimed that the last blue/black had been damaged.), trigger, LPR, and board, then I'll be done for quite a while. Also, yes, right now the eye covers and the freak back are dust, hope to get gloss in the future.

So yeah, went out to paintball this weekend and played the whole day with it, and it shoots fantastic. Very consistent, no kick (Thanks to the crammer.), just all around nice marker. My only problem now is that I can only turn her up to about 250 bps. (This is with the reg putting in about 240psi.) After that, it gets incredibly loud and it almost seems as if the bolt gets stuck for just a second with the sound of a lot of air escaping accompanying it.

I know my description of this is issue is a little vague and hard to follow, so feel free to ask questions. I've been searching through online mannuals and forums but I can't quite seem to find the exact issue I'm looking for. So if anyone knows what's wrong right off the top of their heads and what I can do to fix, please let me know.