Années de jeunesse

Yesterday I ate salad at the French House. Salads aren’t not widely revered as an expression of joyful eating. They are often the food you turn to when you’ve eaten too many other things, or if you feel you ought to have some greens on the side.

And yet this salad made carefully by Neil Borthwick is one of my favourite things I’ve eaten this year. Treviso leaves, tete de moine cheese, kohlrabi and a dressing I really wish I knew how to make.

Back in my salad days I spent a lot of time in the French House. Many brilliant things have happened to me in there. Now, with this team in the kitchen, there is such a strong reason to go. Head up the stairs and reminisce about the good old days, or arrive with your own youthful exuberance to discover it for the first time. If there’s a salad on, order it. Classics always stand the test of time. Bon Appetit.

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