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I kind of missed out on the selfish sewing week because (other than the bra) I only sewed for Mr. Guy this week.

I’m quite a fan of checked flannel shirts, and have wanted to make him one for a while, inspired by “The New Zealand Legend”, the Swanndri. After I had such success with his first shirt, I decided to finally get around to making him one. I can call this one a success as well, he’s worn it almost every day since I made it!

I used Lladybird’s tutorial when cutting out the fabric to ensure all the stripes matched. I thought I had made sure the sleeves matched as well but I’m thinking that the flatness of the sleevehead means you can’t match? I don’t know, it didn’t work anyway. But everywhere else – that is some MATCHING, ladies and gentlemen! I would like to point out the matching stripes at

The front

Both side seams

Each pocket and pocket flap! That one required re-cutting

The sleeve placket and cuffs

The collar!

Even the damned facings match even though there’s no way you’d be able to see that.

Once I get a hand sewing needle and stitch the pocket buttons on, it’ll sit flat and the stripes will line up PERFECTLY

I’m surprised I got it all so lined up, I used every last bit of fabric I had – which was only 104cm wide! Luckily I bought 3 yards*. I’ll admit the collar matching the shirt body was accidental, but it is a beautiful sight. I initially cut the yoke to match the body of the shirt but Mr. Guy thought it would be better cut on the bias, and he’s right – even if the lines matched in the middle they wouldn’t have on either side once the pleats get in the way.

* srsly I’ve decided to pretty much stop buying fabric from online – they only cut the exact measurement (and it’s usually in yards rather than metres), unlike our fabulours local sewing ships, and it’s often really narrow. Plus all the other obvious stuff like, supporting local, travel miles, not being able to feel the fabric.

I made no changes to the fit since it fit perfectly in the first place, although there was something weird going on in the front (too much fabric at the center front so I chopped it off). The facing of the last version can swing open sometimes and you see the little seam there, so this time I did my trick of sewing the facing and interfacing right sides together, then turning and pressing so the seam is nice and pretty. I also, y’know, used black interfacing (unlike the white interfacing in the navy linen shirt) which helps.

I also drafted a collar stand and proper collar – when I asked, Mr. Guy said he would much prefer that to the camp-style collar, and even Zara from Off-Grid Chic said only Hawaiian shirts are allowed to not have a collar stand. For lack of a better option and following the suggestions on the Male Pattern Boldness – Men’s Shirt Sewalong, I traced off a pattern piece from an existing shirt. This worked well except I must not have had a right-angle at the “cut on fold” side. It looked a bit weird but luckily I was able to save it. Next time I might try and add a button placket rather than having a facing.

The only thing I don’t like is how the pocket flaps attach – the edge isn’t finished and because the back of the fabric is white, it looks bit odd, but not many people will see that. I guess it’s a sign of me growing up as a sewer that I care how so much about how the insides look.

I love how this shirt turned out, and am quite jealous of Mr Guy – I tried it on and it’s soooo comfortable, so I’m just waiting on some muslin before I can plan my own flannel Archer shirt.

Details

Pattern: Negroni shirt by Colette Patterns

Fabric: Cotton plaid flannel from fabric.com, about $25 including shipping

Notions: Interfacing, thread (stash) and buttons, $3.70

Total: $28.70

Have I convinced anyone else to try making stuff fo’ yo man? Sonja, I’m lookin’ at you. Look at that happy face.

This is something that even a few months ago I wouldn’t have believed I would do. A proper adult bra with underwires and everything.

I had been dreaming of making bras for a while but figured it was such a specific skill set it would take ages to get even close. Meg posted about her Bra Quest and that brought it more into the realm of possibility, and I decided to try and start my own bra quest, thinking it would be a long time until I had something that I could wear comfortably.

After reading several reviews I decided to go with the Pin Up Girls Classic Bra by Bra Makers Supply, and I went with a kit from Summerset rather than trying to source every bit myself and ending up with a hodge podge of colours – this is Wedgewood Blue. While the supplies took a while to get to me, took even longer to finally build up the courage to make it. I traced off the pattern and it sat for a week before I pulled out the fabric. (Note: I used my regular tracing paper and I wouldn’t recommend using something so flimsy, because the pieces are so small I think you should really use the cardstock and trace route rather than tracing paper and pinning).

Sorry for the poor photos – the shiny material is difficult to photograph

I did make a muslin with underwire and everything (just missing the elastic, using woven fabric for the straps and muslin for the band) and while I did make a change, in retrospect it may have been the wrong fix! I’ve worked out over the last year that I have a broad base relative to cup size, so I need quite a large underwire. When I tried on my muslin I had fabric pooling in front of the side of the underwire so I took that out – but now the underwire sits a bit too close at the underarm. Neither of my bra fitting books deal with this so I’ll either add back the fabric I took, or try and lever the underwire out at more of an angle (does that make sense?). The second fix I can try on this actual bra so I’ll see how it goes.

I’m really truely surprised at how good this looks, and how easy it actually was – although it did help to have experience with stretch fabric, and other lingerie (I’ve made lots of underpants) as it’s quite fiddly. I found the bra sew-a-long by Cloth Habitextremely useful.

The bra has some issues with construction but they’re mainly just aesthetic – the zigzag being too big, etc.Also, I stupidly got my left and right lower cups mixed up so the shape isn’t quite right and there’s some pulling.I did my bar tack at different heights on the bridge casing and I suspect it’s causing problems with the underwire sitting in the wrong place.

Most importantly though, it fits, and fits reasonably well – I wore it for the first time today and while there is a small amount of irritation under the left breast, it’s pretty comfortable! And it’s pretty – I like how it all matches, including the rings and sliders. I decided to put the sliders at the front because it’s sooo annoying tightening a bra strap when they’re at the back, amirite?

A few other bloggers who have recently made bras commented how odd they felt in soft-shell cups rather than padding – I don’t wear padded bras so this isn’t an issue for me. Most of my RTW bras are partial-bands so maybe part of my discomfort comes from a full band, I’m not sure. (The most annoying this about all of this is I don’t quite know WHY I’m getting the discomfort). I would love to make a long-line bra and it should be pretty easy, particularly if I put boning in the sides.

Not sure what else I can say, other than “I have caught the bra bug” – I can see why most bloggers who have made a bra haven’t stopped at one (and this is surely the best bra set in the world – it matches my shoes!), and I’m looking forward to being a fancy lady having matching underwear sets (that don’t cost $100+).

Has anyone else made bras, or thought about it? What about lingerie? I’ve also got the two Ohhh Lulu bralet patterns, which I keep meaning to make again (sooo comfortable). I do make my own underpants as well which is cheap and quick to do once you have a good pattern (I have Ohhh Lulu’s Ginger and Betty patterns found here, and Jalie 3242).

Details

Pattern: Classic Pin Up Bra from Bra Makers Supply, $27

Fabric and Notions: Wedgewood Blue kit from Summerset, $29. It came with this beautiful lace too but I FORGOT to put it on

Total: $56. Not tooo dissimilar from a fancy bra, although I used to rough it and buy $20-30 ones.