This was the start of a profile in which Sheraton pined for the days when fine dining meant French and the best palates in Manhattan never, in God’s name, left the island. The Times — with its new food critic Sam Sifton, who is also not a favorite of Sheraton’s — has shifted some of the coverage to Brooklyn. (To look at how the two very different writers practice their prose, The Observerput their reviews of the same restaurant back to back.)

Anyway, the current crop of food critics are a bit irked at Dame Sheraton’s Manhattan-centric elitism. Here’s a roundup of them airing their frustration — on Twitter, of course.