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When we were there earlier this year, we did see a sign clearly stating no motorhomes past a certain point, which was just before entering the hedged parking bays.
However M/H's were parked inside this area, so we did similar.
Later that day, the Guarda came around and told us all to move, to the more open area (where you first drive in) or face a fine.
I think you may find, it is not an official aire, but gets tolerated to a certain point.
The borne is on the main road!

we were there twice this year en route as we returned were told that the council had been down discussing making it a pay aire, a dutch guy said that national goverment had circulated local councils advising them that motorhomes were a good revenue scource,
a brit couple had returned while we were away who had spent 7 months there last year and were set up to do the same again, on the way down south we stopped for 3 nights the cafe bar was open and at the weekend there was no parking for locals,

Hi Many thanks for the information, heard the news and wanted to know what was going on as we are off to Portugal in Feb. and wondered which way to go, me thinks I will stick to the west side, once again many thanks.
Ken.

if table and chairs are outside you are camping and hence fined, nothing outside and you are parked that's fine/no fine, hee hee

To be fair to the Guarda, when they came around to Domingos, they couldn't care less, about tables and chairs, the guy was quite nice and polite but firmly told us to move to the more open area before the next morning.
It was quite understandable as a holiday weekend was coming!

i understand the guarda had been earlier in the summer and moved everyone to the parking place about 300 mts away because there was a canoeing festival on, apparently it came out during the councillors walkabout that the water and sewerage were part of the lease held by the cafe owner and the area on the opposite side was owned by the hotel over the road , still a lovely spot .IMG_1103.jpgIMG_0185.jpgIMG_0262.jpg

One thing is for sure! Coming from the south west, is is one of the worst corrugated road surfaces, and going north is nearly as bad for a while!
This did put us off returning when we were in Portugal later in the year!
But it is a nice location and there is parking without overlooking the Bgm!
For vans without showers, these are available in the town. It was an old mining town and I assume are left over miners facilities