Step 1:

Step 1: Gather the material needed.Here I have three pieces of wood, two reddish pieces for the sides and the lighter piece for the center.I planned the three pieces just a hair thicker than the knife blade on my thickness planner.

I do not know the types of wood as it is pieces I salvaged from wooden pallets we received at work.

Step 2:

Step 2: Lay the knife blade on the center piece and trace around the blade to get the shape. Make the appropriate changes to the lines to ensure that your knife can slide in and out of the sheath.

Note: I cut a slight angle on the board to accommodate the slope on my handle.

Step 3:

Step 3: Mark a second line about 1/4" larger than the shape/size of the blade ( this will be the outside diameter of your sheath).

Step 4:

Step 4: Cut out on the inside lines you drew on the center piece. I use my "dremel" and cleaned it up with a utility knife and some sand paper.

Step 5:

Step 5:Using a good wood glue and lots of clamps (no you cannot use to many clamps), line up and glue the center piece to one of your out side pieces.

Step 6:

Step 6: Once your glue has set, it is a good time to test to see if your knife is going to slide in and out of your sheath.If you do not make any adjustments now, it will be too late, later on.

You can see my secret for keeping the knife in the sheath.I use a forstner bit, and epoxy to set one or two small thin earth magnets in one side of my sheaths.

Step 7:

Step 7: Trim the two glued piece to the second set of lines you drew on the centre piece.I use my scroll saw and 1X32 inch belt sander for this step.

Really cool idea. I'm making one right now to accompany a knife I made for a (late) Christmas present. The only part I'm unclear on is how you managed to keep the wood glue from squeezing out into the sheath in step 8.

For me that wasn't much of a problem, actually, because mostly I adjusted the wall thicknesses by using a plane on the outer surface. The advantage to hollowing out two halves though is mostly that you can get a tighter fit, because the interior can be contoured to better match the blade's cross section. You could also try using an overhead router or shaper to do most of the hollowing, and then just use a chisel or rasp to smooth out the interior block corners.