I don't have pics of the 750, that was about 17 years ago.
I do relieve the bridge but i still think it's a good idea to drill 2 holes in your piston {takes 5 minutes to do}
You have to pull your top end down anyway, to check your rings, so you might as well clean it while you got it apart.
I use to use minereal oil at 20 to1 about 30 years ago, that would carbon up a motor fast. Synthetic oil at 32to1 up to about 40 to 1 {i jet and run all my bikes at 32 to 1, but 40 to 1 could be crisper could never bring myself to go past 40 to 1} will get you to your next ring check, without pulling the top end down to clean it.
The simple truth of the matter is, a motor will run better on pre-mix thats why race bikes use pre-mix. Oil-injection lets lazy people ride 2 strokes {until they seize due to lack of maintenance, or faulty pump}. Which brings us back to the fact, that some people {lazy people} just shouldn't ride 2 strokes.

Interesting thing here, he provides no evidence to support pre mix over O.I... other than O.I. is for lazy people... Hmm, funny thing is I could make the reverse argument, pre-mix is for lazy people who do not want to go to the efforts to properly adjust and maintain the pump...

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The Kawasaki KLR 650, sure it will do that! Hell, it'll do anything ... just not necessarily well.

People these are opinions on what way to run a bike, not a pissing match, you say Potato we say Potatoe, in the end what is the best, it is from years of proven O.I work fine, but also P.M has worked too. So what ever floats you scooter then run it, lets just not be a bunch of whiney people who thinks/knows better than the other guy BRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP!

Suzuki is well known for using shielding on their cranks of their Posi-force injection stystem to keep the crank area injected oil, from getting diluted by the fuel air mixture. SAAB has been doing this with the Sport and Monte Carlo engines since the early sixties.

It's a proven system and why he's racing a Water Buffalo with the oil injection system removed is beyond me. Water Bufflao's were known to have a very effective and efficient injection system.

I'm calling troll

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We're here because of a love most exestential. (toothy)

I'm going to throw a wrench right in the works. How about both? I haven't always done this, but have just tried it lately. Lemme try to explain. Bike; 77 Yamaha DT400. Top end refresh. I found everything in good shape when I opened it up. Complete de-carbon, light cylinder hone, reassembled with original, first size piston, new rings and gaskets. Knowing I would be breaking in and riding this bike in the winter, I went one size larger on the pilot jet and raised the main jet needle one notch. So, I figured since it's running little richer, and I wanted to give it a couple easy heat cycles, I put a gallon of 70:1 pre-mix in the tank and ran it out. A little smokey at idle, but, once warmed up and blown out, seemed to be ok. Then it snowed. I needed to get the snow blower running. So, I poured last years 50:1 stale sludge into the tank and went out and burned that off. Again, seemed ok. My question to the collective is this. With the carb jetted richer for cold conditions, is it necessary, or at least a good idea to add the 70:1 to compensate. (the oil injection pump is operating at stock setting) Or am I just wasting oil and adding excess carbon to my now clean top end? Has anyone else ever done this? I have not pulled the plug yet for a look-see, but will report back when I do. Whadda U think?

I finally got around to pulling the plug mentioned in post #57. It's dark, almost black, but dry with no hint of spooge. With stock jetting it was running a nice deep tan color. So, not too bad IMHO. Think I'll keep adding the extra oil for the cold weather months. Just for the feel good insurance I guess. On a side note, I,ve discovered another good reason to keep an old 2-smoker around, It makes a good waste oil burner.