Trailer Hitches Tips

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Trailer Hitches Tips
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Hitches come in five classes. The class of each hitch is rated for a specific trailer weight range. Always make sure the weight rating of the hitch is greater than the loaded weight of the trailer that will be towed.

Class I : These are hitches that have a tow rating of up to 2,000 lbs. and a maximum tongue weight of 200 lbs. Normally equipped with a 1 1/4 inch receiver tube, these hitches usually are attached to the vehicles frame, or bumper.

Class II: These hitches have a 3,500 lb trailer weight and a 300 lb tongue weight. They are equipped with a 1 1/4 inch receiver tube and mounted to the bumper or frame, depending on the vehicle.

Class III: This hitch is a bit different, with a rating of up to 6,000 lbs and 10,000 lbs with weight distribution and a tongue weight of 600 lbs/1,000 lbs. (Though not all class III hitches are not rated to be both, always consult the hitch specifications.) This hitch will have a 2 inch receiver tube and can only be mounted to the frame.

Class IV: This hitch has a 10,000 lb trailer rating, and a tongue weight of 1,000 lbs. This hitch also comes with a 2 inch receiver tube.

Class V: This hitch has a rating of 12,000 lbs -17,000 lbs trailer weight and 1,200 lbs -1,700 lbs. This hitch will be equipped with a 2 1/2 inch receiver tube and attaches to the frame only.

Some trucks and SUVs have hitches installed from the factory. Other may come with towing packages without the hitch. Vehicles over 1,500 pounds may require trailer brakes. When getting ready to tow anything, remember that safety comes first. Hitch capabilities, such as the tow load, draw bar length, height, and the proper wiring all contribute to the safety factors of the hitch. Vehicles that come "unhitched" or lose from any vehicle in tow have the ability to cause injury, death and damage. Rule of thumb when towing: you can never be to careful. Having the right equipment is a must in any situation, and towing is no exception.

Even though about 95% of all trailer hitches are made to fit your car, truck, van, or SUV without any modifying or drilling, the older trucks and vehicles may need some drilling and or modifications. When it's time to install your new trailer hitch, no matter what class hitch you are installing, always remember to use the hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, shims, etc) provided by the hitch manufacturer. This is vital to the hitches strength and proper use on your vehicle.

The hitch manufacturer will list the tools needed in the instructions. The best way to start the install is to get the hitch into place. The holes for bolt placement closest to the rear of the truck are usually the best place to start. Work from side to side per hole -- do not bolt up all bolts on one side first, then move to the other side. Only finger tighten until all bolts, washers, nuts, shims, etc., are in place. Center the hitch and tighten the bolts from side to side. While this is a very basic guide to installing your hitch, always follow the manufacturer's instructions to ensure the hitch is installed safely and properly.

The MAGNUM is designed for only full-size pick-up trucks. To start with, there is no truth to the urban myth that Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) was once measured in units of 300 pounds called WHTs, in honor of William Howard Taft, our heftiest unknown president. Gross Trailer Weight is the weight of the trailer completely loaded. To determine actual GTW, you'll need to put your trailer on a vehicle scale. Tongue weight (TW) is the downward force placed on the hitch ball by the trailer coupler. Usually, TW is 10% to 15% of GTW. You can measure Tongue weight with a bathroom scale. Rest the trailer coupler on the scale and position the scale on a box so that the trailer is at normal towing height. Load the trailer as if it were being towed. Note that the tow vehicle's maximum towing capacity can be found in the owner's manual.

Pendulum Style Controllers are "enabled" by the brake pedal switch and "activated" by a Pendulum Circuit that senses the vehicle's stopping motion and applies appropriate voltage to the trailer's brakes. Once properly adjusted, the trailer will slow down at the same rate as the tow vehicle. This increases braking efficiency and cuts down on break wear and tear. Pendulum style controllers break smoothly and function well in bad braking conditions. On the downside, with few exceptions, inertia-activated controllers are bulky, tend to cost more, and need to be mounted and calibrated on the level.

Once enabled by a brake pedal switch, Solid State controllers apply a gradual voltage to the trailer's brakes by means of a Time Delay Circuit. The nice thing about a Time Delayed controller is that it doesn't cost much, has a low profile, and can be mounted easily on any angle. On the con side, when you are towing with your Hazard flashers on, the Digital Display will flash in unison with the Hazard Flashers. If the Brake Control is set too high, you may feel a little pulsing in the trailer brakes. But not to worry, the Pulse Preventer can rectify this situation by isolating the Brake Control from the flashers.

If your trailer has electric brakes, you are going to need to install an ingenious device known, obviously enough, as an electric trailer brake controller. As the name implies, this unit supplies power from your vehicle to a trailer's electric brakes. Electric brake controllers come in two flavors: Time Delay Activated ("solid state") and Inertia Activated ("pendulum style"). Although the controllers' differ in the way they work, they both do allow you to adjust output or braking power. If your trailer has electric brakes, you are going to need to install an ingenious device known, obviously enough, as an electric trailer brake controller. As the name implies this unit supplies power from your vehicle to a trailer's electric brakes. Electric brake controllers come in two flavors: Time Delay Activated ("solid state") and Inertia Activated ("pendulum style"). Although the controllers' differ in the way they work, they both do allow you to adjust output or braking power.

Hooking your vehicle up to a trailer (or vice versa) gives the term “getting hitched” a fresh new meaning. Unlike marriage, however, you can do it on your own, though it can be easier if you have a helpmate.

Here's what you do: 1. Back your tow vehicle as close as possible to the trailer rather than pull the trailer to your car or truck. It's easier and safer. 2. Release the coupler locking device. 3. Lift up the front end of the trailer coupler directly over the hitch ball; then lower it until the coupler is seated on the hitch ball completely. 4. Look under the coupling to make sure the ball clamp is below the ball, not riding on top of it. 5. Latch the coupler to the hitch ball. Be sure it's locked in place by lifting up the trailer tongue. If the coupler comes loose from the ball, unlatch it and go back to Step 3. 6. Make sure your jack is up all the way. 7. For a weight-distributing hitch with spring bars, follow the above procedure, then attach the spring bar chain to the trailer and tighten it until your trailer and car are in a normal level position. 8. For trailers with a surge brake, breakaway cable, or chain, attach the cable or chain to your tow vehicle, leaving enough slack to allow tight turns. 9. Attach the safety chains and criss-cross them under the ball mount so that they do not hang down or drag. 10. Connect the trailer wiring harness to the lighting system of your tow vehicle and check its operation.

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