This approach continues in the resistance work, in which weights are largely eschewed in favour of stretchy bands attached to the ceiling, a giant pilates machine-cum-torture instrument otherwise known as the Garuda, and a series of free movements - arm swoops and leg swoops in every direction imaginable - that are incomprehensibly exhausting.

Garuda, which is owned by the Indonesian government, is planning to raise $300 million from an initial public offering this year to help fund the expansion and better connect the country's 230 million people and 17,000 islands.

And while carriers such as Garuda and Lion, as well as the former military-owned Mandala, are modernising their fleets, there are still plenty of clunkers among the country's 200 aircraft, as anyone who travels the country knows.