Making crawlspaces conditioned space - Home Energy Pros2015-03-31T20:54:53Zhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/forum/topics/making-crawlspaces-conditioned-space?commentId=6069565%3AComment%3A100937&xg_source=activity&feed=yes&xn_auth=noBe sure plastic is protected…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2013-01-03:6069565:Comment:1015262013-01-03T14:37:59.542ZCurt Kinderhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/CurtKinder
<p>Be sure plastic is protected from mechanical damage by any future workers or residents accessing crawl space</p>
<p>Be sure to leave exposed strip for termite inspection. If termite bond is in place, be sure they are on board with details of the project - termites can tunnel, unnoticed through foam.</p>
<p>Beware radon</p>
<p>Monitor humidity</p>
<p>The above may sound as if I don't favor sealing crawl spaces, but in fact I do.</p>
<p>Be sure plastic is protected from mechanical damage by any future workers or residents accessing crawl space</p>
<p>Be sure to leave exposed strip for termite inspection. If termite bond is in place, be sure they are on board with details of the project - termites can tunnel, unnoticed through foam.</p>
<p>Beware radon</p>
<p>Monitor humidity</p>
<p>The above may sound as if I don't favor sealing crawl spaces, but in fact I do.</p> I have a conditioned crawl sp…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-31:6069565:Comment:1018012012-12-31T21:27:42.092ZTrish Holderhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/TrishHolder
<p>I have a conditioned crawl space. I think it is well worthwhile. You can read more about why I like it here: <a href="http://www.greenspirationhome.com/?p=1033" target="_blank">http://www.greenspirationhome.com/?p=1033</a></p>
<p>I have a conditioned crawl space. I think it is well worthwhile. You can read more about why I like it here: <a href="http://www.greenspirationhome.com/?p=1033" target="_blank">http://www.greenspirationhome.com/?p=1033</a></p> TWO-PART WEBINAR SERIES: Cali…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-28:6069565:Comment:1013092012-12-28T19:11:49.278ZCarlos Espinozahttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/CarlosEspinoza
<p>TWO-PART WEBINAR SERIES: California Crawl Spaces: Integrated Solutions for Healthy Homes &amp; Deep Energy Reductions: <a href="http://thousandhomechallenge.com/thc-webinars-retrofitting-ca-crawl-spaces" target="_blank">http://thousandhomechallenge.com/thc-webinars-retrofitting-ca-crawl-spaces</a></p>
<p>Great and surprising information.</p>
<p>TWO-PART WEBINAR SERIES: California Crawl Spaces: Integrated Solutions for Healthy Homes &amp; Deep Energy Reductions: <a href="http://thousandhomechallenge.com/thc-webinars-retrofitting-ca-crawl-spaces" target="_blank">http://thousandhomechallenge.com/thc-webinars-retrofitting-ca-crawl-spaces</a></p>
<p>Great and surprising information.</p> Should have qualified our loc…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-25:6069565:Comment:1011072012-12-25T21:36:52.414ZCraig A. Lawsonhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/CraigALawson
<p>Should have qualified our location. Climate Zone 2, Santa Rosa where we had 1580 HDD in 2011 and have 1453 HDD to date. </p>
<p>So given "our mild climate zone," does anyone have data that supports the additional expense for a conditioned crawlspaces?</p>
<p>Should have qualified our location. Climate Zone 2, Santa Rosa where we had 1580 HDD in 2011 and have 1453 HDD to date. </p>
<p>So given "our mild climate zone," does anyone have data that supports the additional expense for a conditioned crawlspaces?</p> In crawl spaces I have encoun…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-25:6069565:Comment:1008382012-12-25T13:25:49.766ZPat Dundonhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/Patdundon
In crawl spaces I have encountered upstate NY<br />
6800 HDD and generally wet<br />
walls are stone or block &amp; stand 2ft or more above the exterior grade<br />
Interior grade is less than 2 ft below exterior grade<br />
Limited access to space, no storage<br />
Ducts and pipes may or may not be present<br />
<br />
We find it most effective to lay EPDM on the ground in the space and spray 2 or more inches of AC277 appendix X compliant closed cell foam on the EPDM and up the walls to the underside of the subfloor. These spaces are…
In crawl spaces I have encountered upstate NY<br />
6800 HDD and generally wet<br />
walls are stone or block &amp; stand 2ft or more above the exterior grade<br />
Interior grade is less than 2 ft below exterior grade<br />
Limited access to space, no storage<br />
Ducts and pipes may or may not be present<br />
<br />
We find it most effective to lay EPDM on the ground in the space and spray 2 or more inches of AC277 appendix X compliant closed cell foam on the EPDM and up the walls to the underside of the subfloor. These spaces are small enough and insulated well enough so the heat load is insignificant and owners report happiness.<br />
<br />
If the space is too wet, you can put a drainage plane under the EPDM and lead it to a sump. But that is not necessarily required because the foam will 'set back' slightly which tends to raise the EPDM and create a capillary break in the field of the floor. You may still want a drainage plane near the ground/wall joint because the EPDM will not lift there like it will in the center of the floor.<br />
<br />
I don't know how effective it is, but we have been trying to sell an application of boric acid based insecticide on the ground and walls before we do the insulating to defend against bugs.<br />
<br />
I have found the lower the interior grade is relative to exterior grade the less you need to insulate the ground. In our area, at -4 relative to outside we are just going to spray the wall and 2 ft inboard of the wall on the ground, we still use foam to seal any seams in the EPDM though. When a space gets to be 4 ft tall, if the space has easy access, we are going to apply thermal barrier paint too.<br />
<br />
When the space becomes a basement we spray the wall down to 6 inches off the floor, but not to the floor. If water can get in that wall I want to let it out. It is best to have some water management forethought like a ditch or pre set water path like B-dry or tremco's fiberglass and plastic drainage system. in a difficult spot you can adapt materials meant for exterior drainage on basements to interior use. In basements, the thermal barrier paint is required unless the client is framing and hanging sheetrock. To my knowledge no, though I…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-25:6069565:Comment:1009722012-12-25T12:59:51.036ZSean Lintow Srhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/sls
<p>To my knowledge no, though I do have to laugh at "mild climate" &amp; California as that state falls under 7 different climate zones &amp; recall dealing with roads closed due to snow in June.</p>
<p>Like almost everything it depends on where your mechanicals are, location and other factors - got a specific location in mind?</p>
<p>While we are at it - what does Title 24 call for - as I recall they had some info or reqs in there</p>
<p>To my knowledge no, though I do have to laugh at "mild climate" &amp; California as that state falls under 7 different climate zones &amp; recall dealing with roads closed due to snow in June.</p>
<p>Like almost everything it depends on where your mechanicals are, location and other factors - got a specific location in mind?</p>
<p>While we are at it - what does Title 24 call for - as I recall they had some info or reqs in there</p> Actually the one study I know…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-25:6069565:Comment:1011022012-12-25T12:50:25.158ZSean Lintow Srhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/sls
<p>Actually the one study I know of pulled the plug on a house in Flagstaff due to Radon levels increasing because it lost the dilution ability of a vented crawl. With that said depending on your area it still can be worth doing &amp; just making sure you install radon control measures via a rat slab or something similar</p>
<p>Actually the one study I know of pulled the plug on a house in Flagstaff due to Radon levels increasing because it lost the dilution ability of a vented crawl. With that said depending on your area it still can be worth doing &amp; just making sure you install radon control measures via a rat slab or something similar</p> sounds awesome! probably help…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-24:6069565:Comment:1009372012-12-24T04:37:40.620Zdale connerhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/daleconner
<p>sounds awesome! probably helps keep down radon as well</p>
<p>sounds awesome! probably helps keep down radon as well</p> I'm curious if anyone has dat…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-20:6069565:Comment:1004942012-12-20T17:30:46.068ZCraig A. Lawsonhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/CraigALawson
<p>I'm curious if anyone has data on conditioned crawlspaces in mild climate zones, like California. It seems all of the responses listed are from areas with more temperature/humidity extremes.</p>
<p>I'm curious if anyone has data on conditioned crawlspaces in mild climate zones, like California. It seems all of the responses listed are from areas with more temperature/humidity extremes.</p> In cold climates using the HV…tag:homeenergypros.lbl.gov,2012-12-19:6069565:Comment:1006772012-12-19T15:32:30.186ZJerry Nelsonhttp://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profile/JerryNelson
<p>In cold climates using the HVAC system to condition the crawl space is in most cases the best way to provide the comfort factor the homeowners expect from a new system. Leaving the crawl space unconditioned leaves the floors cold that can lead to higher setting on the thermostat, uncomfortble seating for the kids on the floor, and generaly less comfort in the home. We always size off the heat/gain calculations to handle the extra load.</p>
<p>In cold climates using the HVAC system to condition the crawl space is in most cases the best way to provide the comfort factor the homeowners expect from a new system. Leaving the crawl space unconditioned leaves the floors cold that can lead to higher setting on the thermostat, uncomfortble seating for the kids on the floor, and generaly less comfort in the home. We always size off the heat/gain calculations to handle the extra load.</p>