Is this serious? Cafe racer and DR... those are classic shapes for motorcycle style leathers - LL is one of the brands out there, but saying that anyone who makes DRs and cafe racers are making replicas of LL is quite the stretch.

The JG guys take their project seriously, they employ local leather workers in East London, did not move the production to cheaper areas. They use a limited range of very carefully selected leathers - those who saw the horsehide in person understand how much more pleasant these will be to wear than the stiff stuff that can often be found out there. The designs are simple and somewhat predictable but the fit is good, the product is honest and the value is there.

Surprisingly, it is not a crowded field at all. There are a lot of fashion brands who have leather outsourced, but there aren't a lot of good quality, not SLP-priced modern leathers out there. As the success of TOJ can attest

Is this serious? Cafe racer and DR... those are classic shapes for motorcycle style leathers - LL is one of the brands out there, but saying that anyone who makes DRs and cafe racers are making replicas of LL is quite the stretch.

The JG guys take their project seriously, they employ local leather workers in East London, did not move the production to cheaper areas. They use a limited range of very carefully selected leathers - those who saw the horsehide in person understand how much more pleasant these will be to wear than the stiff stuff that can often be found out there. The designs are simple and somewhat predictable but the fit is good, the product is honest and the value is there.

Surprisingly, it is not a crowded field at all. There are a lot of fashion brands who have leather outsourced, but there aren't a lot of good quality, not SLP-priced modern leathers out there. As the success of TOJ can attest

Again, not debating the stuff is nice - it's definitely up there with Addict Clothes in terms of quality, and unlike LL the custom orders don't take years, which is nice, but the jackets are LL inspired, as opposed to a modern take on a DR or inspired by other leather jacket makers, right down to the default red lining, same brand of zippers, same brand of buckles, same source for the cowhide, etc. The brand is marketed as such, I didn't even realize this was up for debate.

I'm a fan of LL-style jackets, and the tan Sueude Ricarde is definitely on my radar. I just wish the custom orders let me get rid of the buckles, which I'm not a huge fan of.

The Manila is basically a Lighting with the zippers moved:

The Ricarde is a Super Monaza without the bottom, uh, placket? Or whatever that thing is called. I don't think it's a placket.

I'm honestly surprised by this. All DRs look the same, precisely until you make decisions about snaps, belts and zippers. The idea that this would be a replica is really odd to me. You can put any DR there and say that it's the same jacket "except for the zippers and belt."

The red lining is a classic choice for vintage and repro motorcycle leather jackets. Most definitely not unique to LL. It would be almost unnatural for a modern incarnation of JG to reject its brand's own DNA

I know that LL is everywhere in Japan so I understand that you would consider it as a reference point, but we're talking about ultra-classic moto jacket designs here. Many makers have done their own versions.

Got this Arts&Science jacket for my wife. VERY VERY similar to the Archivio piece from this season, I believe it's the same fabric - "french moleskin," which I dunno is an actual thing. Anyone know more about this fabric? Or the "Le Gaulois" tag?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicelynice

And I buy Bergfabel, which is pretty much a straight-up PH rip-off. This isn't a moral judgement, just talkin'

Curious, though, what is Arts+Science ripping off? The only mens stuff they carry I know offhand is MA+, Bergfabel, maybe Casey Casey, and shoes like Guidi, M Moria. Closest similarity there is maybe Casey Casey?

Again, not debating the stuff is nice - it's definitely up there with Addict Clothes in terms of quality, and unlike LL the custom orders don't take years, which is nice, but the jackets are LL inspired, as opposed to a modern take on a DR or inspired by other leather jacket makers, right down to the default red lining, same brand of zippers, same brand of buckles, same source for the cowhide, etc. The brand is marketed as such, I didn't even realize this was up for debate.

I'm a fan of LL-style jackets, and the tan Sueude Ricarde is definitely on my radar. I just wish the custom orders let me get rid of the buckles, which I'm not a huge fan of.

The Manila is basically a Lighting with the zippers moved:

The Ricarde is a Super Monaza without the bottom, uh, placket? Or whatever that thing is called. I don't think it's a placket.
Etc. etc.

The Manila is probably closest to a Lightning, with the zippers in the same configuration, but with the belt line of the Cyclone, which is the picture you had up originally.

Lightning:

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdl203

I'm honestly surprised by this. All DRs look the same, precisely until you make decisions about snaps, belts and zippers. The idea that this would be a replica is really odd to me. You can put any DR there and say that it's the same jacket "except for the zippers and belt."

The red lining is a classic choice for vintage and repro motorcycle leather jackets. Most definitely not unique to LL. It would be almost unnatural for a modern incarnation of JG to reject its brand's own DNA

I know that LL is everywhere in Japan so I understand that you would consider it as a reference point, but we're talking about ultra-classic moto jacket designs here. Many makers have done their own versions.

Calling them a rip-off is harsh and unfair.

^ Gucci

^ Schott

^ LW

^ vintage stuff

@gdl203 - I'm not a big believer in originality in fashion, but that jacket is an homage to classic English designs, while a lot of the jackets that you have shown are classic American designs. Lewis Leathers has an "American" style double rider, called the Bronx, that was popular immediately after the war, with that "British" jackets, gaining popularity in the 60s.

Yes, all double riders are the same except for epaulets (passants for you semantics dorks), belts, and zipper and pocket placements. However, it's important, I think, (and leathers become a more enjoyable hobby), when we really look from whence the original inspirations come:'

The Gucci, for example, is definitely inspired by the much older American Schott model, which has military roots, with epaulets at the shoulder, a coin pocket, and a full belt.

And the classic buco double rider has the famous D shaped pocket.

Personally, I don't think that it's an indictment to say that one modern designer made a version of a classic jacket. There is nothing wrong with evolution rather than revolution, and I think that the results are often more organic and interesting. I would agree that "rip off" is probably overly harsh and implies something negative.

That said - man, double riders are so over saturated right now. It's gone from being a badass jacket to the jacket of choice for co-eds.