Description

I'm not sure why I got on this route, maybe because my partner backed off of it, so I felt obligated. Anyway this short, flaring offwidth felt quite difficult for the given grade. Maybe it was because of the strenuous start getting into the offwidth or maybe it was the crappy rock which was continually raining down as I struggled to the anchor. Either way, this route starts at a water-streaked face that turns into an offwidth after about 6'. The initial moves getting into the offwidth are the crux and are very awkward.

Location

This is the leftmost, wide crack on the northeast prow of Blair III. The start is identified by a dark, water streak coming from the offwidth above.

Protection

This route takes #1 or #2 to #5 Camalots from what I recall. The smaller sizes are for the start. There is an anchor at the top but I don't think it was bolts.

As offwidths go, this is what you're looking for. Great training for the harder grades due to the consistency. Definitely hard, but then 9+ is ALWAYS hard at Vedauwoo. Sustained. I felt the bottom was easy compared to the thrutching that follows. The rock quality at the bottom is garbage but don't let that turn you away. Rock above is not well traveled so wear a long sleeve shirt for sure! A proud little grunt fest. I found smaller gear in the back (#1, 2, 3 Camalots) to be ideal pro so you could do it safely without a Vedauwoo rack. There ARE rap anchors at the top, but extend them a lot if you are going to toprope as the rope gets stuck in the chockstones at the top otherwise.

The comments on rock quality and the sustained nature of this route are spot on. This thing left me bruised and beaten. I trundled several loose rocks from the very top section. The large and somewhat secure chockstones at the exit are still pretty solid. I also needed bigger gear (#4 and #5 Camalot) because the back of the crack was very hard for me to reach.

I climbed this route with my left side in the crack. Has anyone tried climbing it with the right side? My initial plan was the right side, but I could not figure out how to transition from the left side to the right after entering the crack. Seems like there could be more foot holds outside the crack, if one climbed it with the right side.

Will be a classic when it cleans up a little. Awful, flared, sharp, and awkward is the name of the game! 2 distinct cruxes: the thin crack off the ground at the bottom and a slight bulge in the offwidth. A LOT tougher than the grade would imply. One of my favorite routes I have encountered here.