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Quoted

I'm worried about pressure loss, i have 3 zones, each one 200 ft, i will have about 45psi after the valve loss! Add the pipe and i see to much loss for 1'' not to mention 3/4 or am i wrong?

If you design for a flow rate of 10gpm, then you will lose about 5 psi in your 200ft of 1" pipe. If you design for a flow rate of 15gpm, you will lose about 10 psi in you 200ft of 1" pipe.

So if you are only using spray heads, you have a little extra pressure to work with while keeping to the cheapear 1" pipe.

But if you are attempting to use rotars and trying to throw a distance of 40', you'll need at least 40psi at the heads and you'll need larger pipe.

Now if you use the MPRotators that Mitchgo referenced (I like them, they are more expensive than standard nozzles, but easy to design with because they require less flow), and you don't need to throw more than 30', then you look to be right on target if you try to design for a flow of about 10gpm per zone (+/-), and just use how ever many zones you need to keep the flow rate near 10gpm per zone, you'll be fine with 1" pipe.

The qestion becomes which is cheaper, more zones with 1" pipe, or fewer zones with more expensive 1-1/4" pipe.

I got 8.3 gallons a min, from my spigot, so you guys think ill get at least 10 if i tap close to the meter? Thats good cause i want to have 6 heads per zone my front yard is a perfect rectangle, 6 on the edges and 6 down the center, with the ones in the center throwing 360 and the edges throwing 180 i'm going to use hunter pgp rotors

Quoted

I'm worried about pressure loss, i have 3 zones, each one 200 ft, i will have about 45psi after the valve loss! Add the pipe and i see to much loss for 1'' not to mention 3/4 or am i wrong?

If you design for a flow rate of 10gpm, then you will lose about 5 psi in your 200ft of 1" pipe. If you design for a flow rate of 15gpm, you will lose about 10 psi in you 200ft of 1" pipe.

So if you are only using spray heads, you have a little extra pressure to work with while keeping to the cheapear 1" pipe.

But if you are attempting to use rotars and trying to throw a distance of 40', you'll need at least 40psi at the heads and you'll need larger pipe.

Now if you use the MPRotators that Mitchgo referenced (I like them, they are more expensive than standard nozzles, but easy to design with because they require less flow), and you don't need to throw more than 30', then you look to be right on target if you try to design for a flow of about 10gpm per zone (+/-), and just use how ever many zones you need to keep the flow rate near 10gpm per zone, you'll be fine with 1" pipe.

The qestion becomes which is cheaper, more zones with 1" pipe, or fewer zones with more expensive 1-1/4" pipe.

so tap in already
And if your worried .. spend $45 extra in parts and add another zone.... Just use a 1" back flow. It's the same check design just with 1" handles instead of 3/4

5/8 meter at 72 static - ( as long as there is flow) will easily get you 15gpm - but you won't know this untill you tap in. I recommend to tap in next to the water meter. Gives you the least amount of friction loss
Then design your system using the code of less then 5FPS

I recommend to read through this entire website - Irrigation Tutorials , This will teach you about irrigation components, design, and water hydraulics.

Learn the Flow chart and pipe size - If your worried.. Then stick with 1 1/4 if you don't care about cost. ( Even though 1" is fine.. 3/4 is too as long as it's designed properly

Actually pvc prices have skyrocketed this year. The prices are quite different now.

Most professionals stick with 1" as a standard for small-midsize residential systems. reduce back to 3/4 half way through your zone to save costs.
I'm worried about pressure loss, i have 3 zones, each one 200 ft, i will have about 45psi after the valve loss! Add the pipe and i see to much loss for 1'' not to mention 3/4 or am i wrong?

If you KNOW you are going to install irrigation and you KNOW where you're going to tap into the main line, if you need really accurate data, then tap the line and do the tests from there. Otherwise, my personal preference is to make sure the system is designed for a whole lot less water that what your system can produce (I still want to be able to take a shower while the irrigation system is on).

As for the Class 200 pipe, I don't see any reason to use it for a DIY install. The Sch40 PVC (in 1/2" to 1" size) is cheap, so you're not gaining a huge cost savings, and gaining stronger pipe to better withstand rocks that might be in your backfill or other problems. If you are looking at the Class 200 because it has a largers inside diameter, you're already sort of constrained by the 3/4" pipe comming from the meter. Upsizing to 1" Sch40 PVC from the 3/4" supply should be just fine.

If i Tap into a 3/4 supply line, the use a 3/4 DCVA, then up size to 1'valves and manifold pipes, then go to 1-1/4 from the valves to the heads, then back down to 3/4 outlets at my tees, with half inch funny pipe back to 3/4 inlets to sprinklers! Will it work? ALL SCHEDULE 40

If you KNOW you are going to install irrigation and you KNOW where you're going to tap into the main line, if you need really accurate data, then tap the line and do the tests from there. Otherwise, my personal preference is to make sure the system is designed for a whole lot less water that what your system can produce (I still want to be able to take a shower while the irrigation system is on).

As for the Class 200 pipe, I don't see any reason to use it for a DIY install. The Sch40 PVC (in 1/2" to 1" size) is cheap, so you're not gaining a huge cost savings, and gaining stronger pipe to better withstand rocks that might be in your backfill or other problems. If you are looking at the Class 200 because it has a largers inside diameter, you're already sort of constrained by the 3/4" pipe comming from the meter. Upsizing to 1" Sch40 PVC from the 3/4" supply should be just fine.

Need help with design

I have a 5/8 in meter, 3/4 sch 40 coming out of the meter to the house, there is a spigot right where the line comes into the house and the run is about 50ft! I got 72psi static, and 50psi dynamic, with 8.3 gallons a min flow! My plumber told me that where that 3/4 line comes into the house, it goes to 1/2, then to the 3/4 spigot! How can i determine my true gallons per min and dynamic without taping and doing it again! Also, how many Rain Bird 5004 pc rotors can i use in one zone, thought about using Hunter pgp due to the lower consumption rate! I would like to use 3 valves to supply 18 heads in my front yard!
Part 2
Im going to go straight to a double check after i tap into the 3/4, should i go to a 1'' before or after the double check! Also can i start useing 200psi (instead of sch 40) right after i tap in or after the double check