Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

I successfully replaced the digitizer of a customer's iPad Mini with the soldering method.

I connected everything and tested, and it was successful except for the home button. I disconnected the digitizer flex and the screen flex and the battery also. I wanted to test again and connected everything. I tried to turn on the Mini, but only had sound and no screen. The screen stays black.

iTunes recognises the Ipad Mini, and I did a DFU in hopes that it would work, but no success. NO SCREEN.

I replaced iPad mini digitizer (w/IC chip) successfully (at first.) Reassembled and everything worked fine. Battery died and when I charged and restarted only sound & a black screen. Tested all the points in pic 4 continuity. All good. Where do I go from here? What else can I test? Or do I need a new digitizer? Or LCD? or something else? PLEASE HELP!

Guys, happened to me. Here is how I am solving it right now. Hold the power and home button for several seconds together until the logo appear. Once done, it should be able to show the Hello text in multiple languages and from there you know exactly what to do.

I need help from all the god people genius in here , my iPad was glued with the wrong tape , so sometimes screen looked like open (if you know what I mean , ok I open it put the correct tape , but now lcd doesn't respond to touch , please somebody (or everybody ) !!! Help me .

Sorry, dont understand your drawing. Do you mean that solder a thin, insulated wire from the start to the end of what you have in green? So it starts at one of the pins on the lcd connector, then goes to the left pad of the fuse shown in red, then goes again from the right pad of the fuse, in red, to the small pad at the top right as shown at the end of your green line?

If the fuse in red is blown, why not just bridge the left & right pad of the small red fuse shown in the picture?

YoloRepair, I was wondering if you could help with something. Directly below the LCD cable are 5 components that are all the same. After putting the iPad together the screen would light up but not display anything. I opened it back up and one of those 5 components was off and laying to the side. I was just going to solder it back on, but it disappeared after sticking to my tweezers. Is this something that can be bypassed at all or does it need to be replaced?

Hi William--I don't think YoloRepair hangs out here any more, so I'll take a stab at your question. Those five components are data filters and are required for the image circuit. Replacing is ideal of course, but at least for testing purposes, you could get away with using a microjumper to bridge across the two sets of solder points. Your jumper(s) should be vertical, i.e. home button to power button, not side to side.

Hello I have an iPad mini and one of the little prongs on the digitizer connector brok of and stuck to the digitizer plug itself. I need to know where I could send this to get it repaired! And I would need to know how much it would cost. Also I may have a backlight issue so I would possibly need to get that fixed as well. Anyone that could help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks!!

Restarting the iPad is confirmed to work. (If soldering isnt what needs to be done.) I have 2 iPads minis that i replaced the digi on and both were showing a extremely low backlight, restarting as mentioned above did the job for me.

Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.

To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to have to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.

The backlight circuitry on the Mini 1 (and others, but here I discuss the Mini 1 specifically) is very simple: A boost converter consisting of a chopper, coil, and diode generates around +20.4 VDC which goes through the fuse (inductor, filter, whatever) L2200 to the LCD connector pins 30 and 32. (Page 18 of the Mini 1 schematic, widely available on the Web.) The sink drivers for the 6 LED groups are on pins 18,20,22,24,26, and 28. I'm not sure how removing the connector with the battery connected would kill L2200. since its unlikely there would be any circuit path to short out the 20.4 V supply And the Mini can be powered up without the LCD or digitizer connectors plugged in at all with no damage. However, installing the LCD cable could easily result in the connectors not mating properly momentarily, possibly shifted by 1 pin one way or the other. I suspect that's when the damage gets done.

Here is a close up of the iPad mini backlight fuse---ideally you would replace it for a robust long lasting solution which is very straightforward to do with the right equipment and experience. If you insist on jumping it, you would need to lay a bead of solder across the top of this component with the red arrow.

Keep in mind--this picture is an image that I took to send to a customer that came to me from this very thread that knocked off the two essential components circled in red while digging around trying to make the jumper. The capacitor just to the right of the backlight fuse is only found on the iPad mini and the iPad 4 and is difficult to source if you damage it and have to replace it. The capacitor on the left is essential and required. The two small components that are missing in this picture are also essential and must be replaced, not jumped, if they are damaged. These "DIY rescue" repairs can quickly get very expensive so BE CAREFUL!!

jessa

I've decided to post some DIY fails here. This is such a straightforward, inexpensive fix to send out for...it always makes me sad when I get these trainwreck minis sent to me. Repair is noble when you use the right tools.

DIY Fail---This is exactly why NOT to jump the fuse. This guy burned up his diode with this way too big wire.

This is a great way to short out your iPad, except it was already done. If your jumper has continuity with ground (like this one) you're done.

I have three iPad mini's now from folks from this very thread that have tried to jump the backlight fuse and then ended up knocking off tiny components around that area. One of them didn't even realize that he'd knocked off a resistor and capacitor in front of the fuse just by probing it. Another knocked off four small resistors at the power button side of the board under some tape just from trying to remove the shield. Another thought he could just jump a nearby tiny resistor that fell off and shorted the LCD voltage to ground!

Sourcing and replacing these missing components can be a HUGE drag--especially if the solder pads are torn and a line must be traced to the previous component in that trace. Ugh! Tedious hours of work.

It is *so* easy to do the repair correctly and replace the fuse with the right tools. I use a Hakko FM 2023 mini hot tweezer and a microscope to desolder some of the shield, and then pinch the tiny fuse, pop it off. Pinch the new fuse, pop it on. Done.

It takes about an hour to do it complete with testing, I can send it back open or sealed with your screen. Give me a shout if you don't want to take the risk of this going down the rabbit hole.

If you are going to take a stab at it--BE CAREFUL. USE MAGNIFICATION. and of course first try the steps above that m0t3x outlined!

If you do end up knocking off components, then I can still help you now that I've done these other three.

A full dozen minis have come to me for DIY rescue repair from this thread, and I finally got one I couldn't save. Death by RadioShack conductive pen "bare paint". That stuff made a massive short and since it wasn't solder, I t wouldn't come off without tearing up the mask and exposing copper.

This was about 200 backlight repairs ago, since then I've seen about 2 or 3 others that I couldn't repair--presumably drop damage somewhere...coil, diode measure fine, voltage produced going to coil, continuity through to LCD connector, all filters measuring fine.???

This one had a ton of conductive paint in it which may not have caused the short, but just masked it and it was really annoying to wash out. Underneath, the solder mask had been scratched off in the customer's self-admitted many attempts to jump the fuse. The nub of the diode-side pad at the filter was mashed into the exposed ground mask --not dissimilar from screwdriver damage that mashes two layers of the board together. I couldn't tease them apart it was shorted out permanently as far as I was concerned. I would be interested in knowing how you would approach repairing it. I just prefer collaboration over competition--there is plenty to learn for everyone. If you are interested in solving difficult problems for free, I can hook you up!

Not really sure where Ryan thinks he can accuse Jessa of anything... Seems like an unnecessarily rude comment - especially to someone who is just trying to help and is not being rude at all. Ryan, I suggest that you take a deep breath and think before you type. There's no need to be rude here. Everyone should be trying to help in the spirit of repair and community. Keep the attacking language off this site and on the forums it belongs on!

I really have to chip in my 2 cents here since I too am a Technician. Soldering surface mount parts without any soldering skills is really a terrible idea. Using a conductive pen for something so tiny and tedious is also a very very risky idea. If you don't have the finesse to do surface mount soldering, chances are you won't have the finesse to use a conductive pen.

Do not use some random piece of wire to solve the problem. Would you use some random piece of pipe to fix your sink? Same theory. Wires have a gauge for a reason. They can only carry so much current, just like a pipe can only carry so much water.

If you have a steady hand, and the soldering experience with surface mount then I would suggest giving it a shot. If you are a novice, I'd show this thread to someone who does have the skills and see if they will tackle it for you.

If none of those options are available, then I would suggest taking it to a repair shop or purchasing a new unit from Ebay.

Also, one more thing. Using some cheap 50 dollar soldering iron probably isn't going to make the situation any easier lol. Make sure you have one that is temperature controlled - because most of the cheap ones get too hot or they don't conduct the heat properly which is why I see so many boards that are burned and parts that are knocked off.

I did the soldering but I still have a black screen. It was working great before I tried replacing the glass screen. If I hold the home button it says "siri not available connect to the internet" any ideas?

your backlight is still out because the backlight diode, commonly called backlight ic, is damaged. The backlight diode is very sensitive and easy to damage. If you replace the backlight diode, you will likely bring back your backlight---and at the same time you might as well properly replace the fuse with a new one. If you don't want to send your board out to have it done professionally, and you want to try to replace the backlight diode DIY, just remember that the diode is a directional component--you'll need to place the new one in the same orientation as the original with the side with the lines facing the home button side of the iPad.

Jumping the backlight filter is a bad idea guys--that will likely cause you (or your customer's) backlight coil to fail prematurely. This is especially true if you are putting a mini back together and testing your digitizer soldering job, home button etc and keep plugging/unplugging the LCD. The filter is an easy part to replace--about $5 on eBay. In fact, replacing the whole backlight coil, filter, and ic is less than $20 for parts cost and takes just a few minutes with a hot air station and a little experience. The mini does seem particularly sensitive to the sudden change in voltage that comes from unplugging the LCD. I've learned this the hard way!

You got no pads here any more. This mini can be saved, but it will have to get the "long jumper" solution to link directly from the backlight diode to the LCD connector area. Almost always, the backlight diode is burned out when the mini looks like this. This is an advanced rework project now.

On the iPad mini anytime you unplug the LCD you must unplug the battery and plug it back in or that will happen. Please don't do all the things others may tell you to do to it unless you really can afford to buy anther one. I do this everyday simple is always the best place to start.

I agree with the answers relating to the backlight. This happens all of the time, from either too much heat (when tearing the iPad down), or damaging some of the connectors on the motherboard that the electric current for the backlight flows through. Happens commonly with DIY attempts which means, if you're DIYing an iPad repair, be MORE CAREFUL than careful. Be neurotic about it.

3. When installing, damage may have somehow occurred to the connector, unplug and check if any pins are missing, if so, remove and replace connector. I recommend gravity soldering in this instance as it's the easiest way to install the connector to the board.. Hope this helps. -John

in the process of powering off the ipad after testing a newly installed digitizer I inadvertently raised the LCD thus disconnected the flex connector, not wanting to reconnect the LCD without removing power I thought no issues I just have to disconnect the battery...surprise, In order to do so I would have the pretty much disassemble the unit to get the MB to raise enough to disconnect the battery. I'm actually not stopped at this point and started searching for a solution which is what brought me to this link as I've had other ipads not have backlighting after reconnecting with power on. Though I think this is a terrible and intentional design by Apple I do agree experienced comments above that one should not have to blow a fuse when such a seemingly trivial issue occurs.

Is there any other way that I can unseat the battery connector without lifting the motherboard?

Thanks to all for the questions and comments, even the inexperience'd comments are helpful,

Tony--it sounds like you are not talking about an iPad mini here, so you might want to submit this as its own question. But to answer your question: "How can I disconnect the battery on an iPad (2,3,4) without full disassembly of the board?" You don't have to pull all the screws of the MB in order to be able to pop it up enough of the adhesive to reset it. You don't even have to disconnect the cables if you don't want to.

Brandon, YES I will help anyone out who may need it. If you want to send the entire unit with the replacement parts, I can send it back repaired and looking professionally serviced. I can replace the digitizer whether it is the full assembly (which includes the IC chip and home circuit pre-installed) or if its just the digitizer itself and swap over your old IC chip and circuit. If a broken digitizer wasn't your problem, that's ok too. I can replace any part whether it be a charge port, battery, power flex cable, headphone jack, camera etc. Anyone can e-mail me for contact information or even if you just have a question.

Also guys there is a trace pen available that should also work on bypassing the fuse. It's used in place of soldering if you don't have the correct size tip or skill set. A small dab on top should do the trick. Sorry I didn't think of it til now. I believe Radio Shack sells it but you can find it online. It leaves behind metallic particles to make a conductive path.

Yareck, awesome. I didn't get a chance to verify the trace pen but in theory it should have worked. Thanks for posting about your success. The only thing I could note is not to use too much as you don't want it bridging the residing components (Obviously you didn't). On the iPhone 5, did you replace the screen and now your having this problem? Or did you drop it or get it wet?

I replaced the screen once it was cracked because the phone was dropped. I own a small repair shop and among many iPhones 5 I fixed for the past 6 months I had few that after a screen replacement the screen just dies.

Maybe it's a fuse just like on iPad mini.

Sometimes Iphone is good for a day and sometimes it's screen is done immidetley after replacement. It bothers me because I have to reimburse to my customers.

I just want to say that I take really good care to not to scrape off anything off of the motherboard.

Hey Ryan, Im fixg my friends ipad and applied conductive glue to the fuse and still cant get the lcd screen to show anything. Ipad is on thought because the voice command is activated. What can i do now?

Obinna--conductive glue really is a terrible "solution" for this problem, I don't know how many iPads I've seen that have been destroyed by the stuff. This answer by Ryan always makes me sad.

You'll need to clean the board to remove every trace of the conductive ink and then just send the thing out for a proper board repair. iPad mini backlight fuse replacement is very straightforward with the right equipment and experience.

I think Ryan has shared some great information on this topic, but I down voted this answer since I know of several users that followed the suggestion to use conductive ink to attempt to create continuity across the damaged fuse and ended up breaking their mini's because of it.

My Ipad was working and had 5% power remaining. I plugged it up and the next morning it would not turn on. The screen is black, no logo, and unresponsive. It wont turn on. I tried the power, home combo, home, itunes combo and just power. It is also not recognized in itunes or by the computer when I plug it up. It has a new battery so that is not the problem. Any suggestions?? Is there a fix for this? Is my data safe? This ipad is like new condition has always been in a case, never dropped, water etc.

Hi Techie, I think we've already talked about this one--it is a no power problem, not a no backlight problem so you should post this as its own question. I would be concerned about a sudden no power problem on an iPad mini as possible damage to the charging ic on the board which is a big repair. But of course first rule out bad battery or bad dock.

Can you provide some iPad mini backlight assistance? I don't have experience with soldering these micr components. Appears my backlight has blown a fuse after replacing the digitizer. This is my daughters iPad and she is going to kill me if I don't get it running. I can see a very very very dim image of the apple logo and her home page image if I turn the lcd at a flat angle. Backlight is out though. Did not unplug the battery cable before disconnecting the lcd. Is there a chance in hades in can solder a new fuse? Or can you do this for a nominal fee?

I want someone to help me. I have an iPad mini and tried replacing the screen everything went smoothly until I connected everything the screen came on but the touch screen didn't work. Screen only comes on if I hold down power and home button. Can someone help. Or even if I could send my iPad mini to u to repair. I would. I live in Canada. I can't afford a new one fro my little girl. Thanks

good news everyone. i bought a conductive paint from radioshack, $10. got into the logic board and used a needle to place a TINY glob over the red filter in the picture above. fixed the problem. I don't know how to solder. works fine so far.

I had the same exact problem with the backlight. I replaced my digitizer due to a cracked screen and then the backlight went out. I unplugged the battery, then I unplugged the LCD, put it back together and it worked! Make sure your LCD cable is fully seated in the slot.

Similar for me... Replaced cracked screen, re-assembled, tested before sealing closed; powered on and only got black screen and thought it was backlight fuse issue, looked closely and saw a faint "x" at the top of screen and "home button" symbol at the bottom, read this blog and realized it might not be a blown fuse; so I tried re-setting properly pressing power and home buttons simultaneously and that did the trick, Apple symbol showed up and it functioned normally; thanks for all the good comments 11/07/15 Sergio542

Guys avoid these problems! Always always disconnect the battery before disconnecting any other cable. As for the the digitizer going crazy after installation always be sure to place a PC of kapton tape over the flex next to the home button. Cover all the exposed chips.

I replace my digitizer and follow all the steps, but when i test it by turning it on didn't shows anything, was just black but Itunes recognize it when I plug it, so I was so mad and leave it in my desk because was 3:30 am next day I went to work and when I come back home the ipad was working just fine..

My back light wasn't working, left battery plugged in and flicked off the lcd.....ahhhh I know.

Anyway, I replaced the diode and it worked ok when tested initally, then I put it back together and the back light wasn't working again. I test the diode and it is faulty so I replace it and now the screen doesn't come on at all.

Are you sure you mean diode instead of backlight filter? It wouldn't make sense to initially replace the diode since the filter is the part that fails. However, if you have no backlight after replacing the filter, then you probably do have diode failure and need to replace the diode. Be careful, the diode has directionality. Make sure you've placed the new diode in the same direction as the original.

Also make sure the digitizer is seated in a he digitizer connector and that the digitizer connector isn't damaged-the iPad mini backlight depends on the digitizer connection as well

Michael---iFixit Answers is happy when you just make a comment on your original post, instead of multiple new 'answers'

I have never seen a situation where the diode would fail in the absence of the filter failing---what made you conclude that the diode had failed but not the filter? Sounds like something unusual is going on with your iPad. Check to make sure none of the EMI brackets are shorting the line?

I wouldn't be surprised if the fact that you let the magic smoke out of the diode makes the dim Apple disappear. As you know, no component can work without its magic smoke. It sounds like something else is going on with this one, do you have any pictures of the backlight fuse area and diode?

The mini requires a digitizer in place to produce a full display. In any event, your next step is to check out the line for anything that could be causing a short and then put in a new diode.

Thanks for your reply Jessa. Well, I got the filter replaced and it still didn't work. I replaced the diode and it worked for a while.

But when bending the housing wire back into place, I managed to hit the diode or around that general area. The backlight was gone again after that. I replaced the diode again, but in doing so the new diode got stuck to the soldering iron for a few seconds and I think it fried it as there is no display no at all with the new diode installed and there is continuity in both directions on the diode.

The only sign of life is a tiny puff of smoke from the diode when I plug in the battery cable in.

"diode hasn't any continuity" this doesn't make sense to me---there should not be continuity across the diode. The leg closest to the coil should have continuity with the coil. The leg closest to the filter should have continuity with the filter and all the way to the LCD connector.

On diode testing--which is different from continuity testing, and is the way the diode's function is measured---a healthy diode should measure 1 (closed) in one direction and (switching the red/black probes) about 160 +/- in the other direction.

Just to be crystal clear---you are setting the multimeter to diode testing (the diode symbol) with red probe to one leg of diode and black probe to the other side of the diode you get this reading _______________(something between 150-180 is normal) when you then switch the probes and put the red to the other leg and black to the first leg you get this reading ______________(normal is 1).

A defective diode will read 1 in both directions of testing.

I'm going to guess that your diode may be normal, provided it is installed in the correct direction. Can you show us a picture?

yes, that is very common and marked by the battery percentage not changing except at reboot. It is solved by replacing FL7500 (from memory, i think that's the component) best to post this issue as a separate question

that is what the mini does when there is no input at the digitizer connector. If a screen is connected and still same, check closely for any gold pins missing at the digitizer connector. If you can see missing pins, that is the problem--send out for new digitizer connector and it will solve and boot to normal display.

Hello, jessa, have a problem. Did a repair on a mini. Powered off, replaced digitizer and soldiered on old IC chip and home button. Before sealing everything up, I turned it on to test everything...a section of the LCD wasn't displaying anything and digitizer was 75% functional. Powered off and disconnected LCD and digitizer to recheck soldiering points. Reassembled and now won't turn on. No apple logo. No sound when plugging it into wall socket or computer for iTunes. ITunes does recognize the mini though being connected and password protected.

Jesse, thanks for the reply. Why does this sound like "classic backlight"? If it was just backlight issue, wouldn't the iPad at least be dimly lit and have sound? I'm getting nothing... like it doesn't even power on.

Could this have something to do with the "lock" feature associated with the home button flex cable?

**Update on my first post... it appears when I plug it into wall charger, there is that "plugin" ding sound.**

The dim logo/chimes are not a reliable indicator of a backlight failure. It sounds like classic backlight to me because we know the iPad is powered on since it is recognized by iTunes. It now has no display after a recent disconnect when shortly before it had a display, even if the LCD was damaged. This is either that the LCD itself is now completely damaged (less likely) or that you have burned the backlight filter at this disconnect (classic). I would bet that under the microscope you'll see the physical damage to the backlight filter evident as a tiny pin !$$&* of solder bulging from the center of the filter, or it will look completely burned.

It is very unlikely that you damaged anything on the board relevant to backlight from your work with the touch ic and home flex. You may not have touch, but even a botched touch ic solder job will still show the apple logo. Post a clear close up of your backlight filter--bet it is burned.

Sounds like something was soldered incorrectly or another component was damaged during the repair. I have actually fixed this issue a few times and ended up replacing one of the capacitors right next to the filter. There is also another filter jut below the one you repaired that may need replaced. Test with a different LCD screen as well. If you need to send it in just contact me.

Thanks Jessa and all the others that responded. Considering it powered on fine after the repair, I wanted to wait 24hr in hopes that, like a few of the others, a few hours would correct the issue. It did not, so I went ahead and messed with the filter. I wanted to lay a line of solder from one end of the filter to the other, but as you know, it's delicate work and I've never done a soldering process that intricate. I have a soldering gun with a pencil tip about .6 millimeter at the pointed end. I cut TINY pieces of solder off a line and tried it like that first. Didn't lay right so I pulled it off and took a small section of one end of the filter off. Lol. "From bad to worse", right?

Not so. I assessed the situation and tried again. This time I cut more TINIER pieces and dabbed one tiny drop at a time and arched from one end of the part I kinda jacked up, to the other end of the filter. Results? I have a working iPad mini now! Of course, the LCD was still jacked, so will have to buy a brand new part for my brother-in-law. Lol, as long as I got it working though. Kudos to you, Jessa, your advice was much appreciated. To the others, as well. Happy holidays.

I have a little different issue than yours after replacing the touch screen for my IPad Mini. The power was off, but I did not remove the battery connector before unplug the screen and the LCD connectors (I knew that it was a bad mistake).

After replacing the screen and put everything back together, I can see the back light came on with an apple logo. However, the back light went off after booting, and I can see the password screen. I took a flash light and shine behind the LCD for entering the password to see the screen working. The screen worked well at all corners, except the back light. I powered it off with a flash light behind the LCD, and I powered it back again. The same thing happened. The apple logo appeared with back light during the booting time and turned off after that.

It was working fine before replacing the screen. I did a backup with iTunes without any problem, but the back light is still turn off after booting.

This is still going to backlight filter is my guess. It is just Soooooo common. Replace the filter, possibly also the diode and it will probably solve. If you see no damage to the filter and it has continuity, then second choice is that it is the LCD itself. Third choice is damage to the digitizer fpc connector --digitizer is required for display past the apple logo in the mini

Thanks for your recommendation. It was the fuse. Somehow, my fuse did not blow out totally, and it is read 95 Ohms on the multi-meter. I bypassed the fuse and the backlight came back, and the mini Ipad is now alive. Thanks again.

I have bridge the fuse on many iPad mini 1 (over 30) without any problem, don't know why this fuse blow, not always but often and i always disconnect the battery first... ***But never do a fuse bridge on IPad mini 2/3/4 the diode will burn in 2 seconds, i know because i have try once... well at least its easy enough to replace with solder paste and the fuse, the diode, the coil are less than $0.75 each if you got some good suppliers, on eBay they are a way too expensive !!

Brian--we do micro soldering support for other repair shops and DIY customers all day every day. Feel free to contact me via the link in my profile by clicking my name here if you need some help. I know "mike p" also does good work and I think she is out of Michigan if that is closer.

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