Jonkie76

This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by Jonkie76: 22.09.2012 16:47.

Like to paticipate in this awesome beginners course.
Started playing several years ago, with up and downs, and I think this is a good way after a year sabattical to review al my knowledge and to learn some stuff I never ever had learned before.

Question 1: What is your motivation for playing poker?
As I told before, I already started playing at pokerstrategy some years ago. At first my goal was to get rich with it. At this point, I just want to play good poker with a nice profit to pay for some of my hobby's (triathlon, restauration of a moped) Every step further is just a bonus but not a goal for me anymore.

Question 2: What are your weaknesses when playing poker?
At first my weakness was enormous TILT. I never spewed cash, but just playd the higher stakes to make up losses. After a year of not playing poker, but investing in forex, I learned to control my TILT. This is not an issue anymore.
Profit in cash was my way of measuring my learningcurve, which was totally wrong ofcourse. I am aware of that now, because of my experience in forex investments.

My current weaknesses are lying in the playing of poker itself.
I like to play, and not to learn. Reading articles is not a problem, but to implement them in my play. So I started to tune back to just one Pokerstars Zoom table, trying to improve the quality and not the quantity of the game.

Question 3: What does it mean to play tight aggressive?
The basics of this type of player is that he does not play a shitload of hands, because he want to play as much as possible. He only plays the right profitable hands on the right positions on the table. This part is the 'tight' element.
The other element 'aggressive' means that the player invests in his cards as he decides to play them. So we raise the majority of hands when first in, and we make continuation bets on the flop, when the board allows us to. If we have made hands we invest in the pot. This does not mean we do not ever fold hands. A good player knows when to give up his hand.. He who makes the bets, is the one asking the questions on the table. We like to ask the questions!

Most of the weakness you wrote can easily be fixed by posting hands (analyzing your session). We will start writing feedback to your play. Usually negative feedback will put you into thinking phase and trying to fix all those leaks. It's almost the same as you lose money, you will remember it more than winning part. By this situation it's gonna be that negative feedback you gonna remember and try to avoid them next time.

Easiest way to fight against tilt is to set up stop-loss technique. Which means if you for example have lost more than 3BIs for a session then you just stop the session for some time. The BI amount is set up from your own results. Some may put it higher, some lower. Also after the stop you can spend some time with evaluation part to become better.

Another option against tilt is to set yourself shorter sessions which might avoid you from tilting. If you playing longer sessions then it's more likely that during that session you can get upset. So work on your game and try to find out what makes you tilt and try to fight against it.

About laziness I'd say that it's not only with poker but wherever you want to become good at something you have to invest a lot of time. Being lazy is usually some excuse to get out of it. In poker it's going to cost you even money if you at some point are taking it not seriously, so therefore try to force yourself not being lazy. Write even on paper and read it before the game and remind to yourself what you are there to do. There is no escape from fleeing from the part where you need to analyze some sessions or read article/watch video, just do it. Start doing shorter sessions first and then put bigger effort.

Tight style is usually called playing selected hands. Like following the Starting Hand Chart. Aggressive should be also pretty clear that already the word says how you should be playing. But the problem playing aggressively is that you have to watch that you don't play too aggressive. Find good spots, find good targets. About The tight-aggressive strategy you can read in this article: "What is the Big Stack Strategy?"

Hopefully you will enjoy being with us here and will enjoy the course. In any case you have questions about anything then feel free to ask it, I will try to respond as soon I read it.

This post has been edited 1 time(s), it was last edited by Jonkie76: 08.11.2012 22:25.

Sorry for my absence, have not been here for a while..for no particular reason.

Have been playing NL2 Zoom now for a while, and I'm confident in playing it.
So I am ready to go on with this course again.. will continue as soon as possible. Already saw some vid's from Hasenbraten about equity.
Also posted difficult hands in the judging section.
And I started to use some stats and the advanced opening charts to loosen up my game a bit.

This post has been edited 3 time(s), it was last edited by Jonkie76: 10.11.2012 13:19.

Question 1: What do you think you could play differently than suggested in the BSS Starting Hands Chart and why? (Are there any hands you would play differently? Do you have a problem or question about how a specific hand or hands should be played?)

Answer: There is no specific situation where you can say do A or do B.
This all depends on the type of players who have already invested in this pot, and the players behind you who will still have to act. Today for example I had 45s on the CO, and MP2 limped in. After me there were no agressive players or calling stations. SCH told me to limp. I raised because that move would be more EV+ than calling. I already see an improvement in my vpip and pfr.

Question 2: Do you have questions about your preflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. ( Post your hand in the Hand evaluation forums and provide a link to your hand in your private thread in the Locker Room.)

Answer: the only hands I have not learned to play preflop yet are the one gappers. I tend to extend my preflop play step by step. My last improvement was to extend my preflop hans with suited connectors. This goes pretty well so far. So one gappers and expanding my CO and BU ranges is the next 2 steps.

Question 3: What is the equity of AKo against the top 5% range? 5% means 88+, AJs+, KQs, AKo. ( You can either calculate this yourself or use an equity calculator such as the PokerStrategy.com Equilab.)

No need to be sorry.
Take your time and finish your homework whenever you have time for it. I have been also quite busy lately with new flat etc.

Isolating can be very profitable actually since people on lower stakes take the fast and easy line by just Fit/Folding too much. With that you will earn in long run a lot profit. Which means you can isolate with even wider range, sometimes even with the all range which you planned to limp.

As BU did not bet the flop in position I do not give him PP's higher as 77+
As BU raises me on the turn , I can also eliminate cards that totally have no connection with this board like Ax+ or Kx offsuited cards. So he would play a draw here, or a already hit straight or even an set.. Against my cards that will give me the following equity:

So I need about 60% equity to make a decent call..
The pot is 91ct and I have to call 22ct to win a total pot of 1.13.
So I have pot odds from 1:5. As I see the development of the board, I can only win the pot if I hit my flush, and the board can not pair, as possible sets will give him a full house. So technically spoken I only have 7 outs. There are 28 cards left in the deck, so the chance to hit my card is 1:4. So based on the pot odds, I can make a profitable call here.

And as we look at the implied odds, if my cards indeed will hit, we can easily win an extra half pot value bet of lets say aprox. 55ct.

So yes, I will make a call here, and will play check fold if I do not hit my flush.
If the board hits the flush and pairs..so there is a possible Fullhouse for the BU. Then we will have to evalute his bet size as we the will play check/call as he bets small or check/fold if his bet size wil be to big on the river.

Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. (Post your hand in the hand evaluation forum and provide a link to your hand in your private thread in the Locker Room.)

[quote]Originally posted by Jonkie76
Question 1: You are holding KQ. What is your preflop equity against an opponent who has 33? How does the equity change on this flop: J53? (Tip: you can use the Equilab to help you with this task.)

As BU did not bet the flop in position I do not give him PP's higher as 77+
As BU raises me on the turn , I can also eliminate cards that totally have no connection with this board like Ax+ or Kx offsuited cards. So he would play a draw here, or a already hit straight or even an set.. Against my cards that will give me the following equity:

So I need about 60% equity to make a decent call..
The pot is 91ct and I have to call 22ct to win a total pot of 1.13.
So I have pot odds from 1:5. As I see the development of the board, I can only win the pot if I hit my flush, and the board can not pair, as possible sets will give him a full house. So technically spoken I only have 7 outs. There are 28 cards left in the deck, so the chance to hit my card is 1:4. So based on the pot odds, I can make a profitable call here.

And as we look at the implied odds, if my cards indeed will hit, we can easily win an extra half pot value bet of lets say aprox. 55ct.

So yes, I will make a call here, and will play check fold if I do not hit my flush.
If the board hits the flush and pairs..so there is a possible Fullhouse for the BU. Then we will have to evalute his bet size as we the will play check/call as he bets small or check/fold if his bet size wil be to big on the river.

It's also important to note that because our draw is a backdoor flush draw we generally have higher implied odds.

Your equilab shows you to have 60% equity which means that you will win the hand almost 2/3 times.

However I think you made some mistakes in assigning him a range. For example he doesn't have all suited hands for J8 or T9. He would most likely have half of them (the ones that are on the board).

Question 3: Do you have questions about your postflop play? Post your hand for evaluation. (Post your hand in the hand evaluation forum and provide a link to your hand in your private thread in the Locker Room.)

http://www.pokerstrategy.com/forum/editpost.php?postid=1244964

Looks like your link is invalid (I think you copied a link from the editor - when you tried to edit the post).

and please explain why you see different smaller range for his hand as I do..
A little while ago I was in a 3 way raised pot.
And the guy that won the pot showed 3Ts when he hit his flush on the river.
This was on NL2. And the situation was something like above.

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members. (Choose a hand from the Hand evaluation board and post your own evaluation in the thread. Post a link to the hand you have evaluated in your private thread. You can evaluate as many hands as you want, but try to choose hands not yet evaluated by other users.)

As we dont have initiative on the flop and we hit our set on a pretty dry board, we can indeed better check on the flop, and let our opponent lead out. Personally I dont like the raise on such a dry flop. I'd rather call his bet and evaluate on the turn.

As played on the flop..The turn gets drawy unfortunately so a check raise is not an option. We dont want him to check behind. We prefer to bet potsize bet on the turn. On the river the flush hits. A 1/2 pot bet would be nice.
Myself because I'm a chicken I would check/call, to give weaker hands a possible bluff, and to not have to fold te hand if he raises you allin after you bet.

Question 3: You are on the flop with KsQd. The board cards are Js, 9c, 8h, and your opponent holds 7c7h. What is your equity in this spot?

and please explain why you see different smaller range for his hand as I do..
A little while ago I was in a 3 way raised pot.
And the guy that won the pot showed 3Ts when he hit his flush on the river.
This was on NL2. And the situation was something like above.

For one villain atually checked the flop with position which means that some hands from his range (that you assigned) won't really be there.

So go back to his turn range and reduce some of the hands that would actually bet the flop (or could).

Looks like you posted this hand in the wrong forum (that's the SS forum).

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members. (Choose a hand from the Hand evaluation board and post your own evaluation in the thread. Post a link to the hand you have evaluated in your private thread. You can evaluate as many hands as you want, but try to choose hands not yet evaluated by other users.)

As we dont have initiative on the flop and we hit our set on a pretty dry board, we can indeed better check on the flop, and let our opponent lead out. Personally I dont like the raise on such a dry flop. I'd rather call his bet and evaluate on the turn.

As played on the flop..The turn gets drawy unfortunately so a check raise is not an option. We dont want him to check behind. We prefer to bet potsize bet on the turn. On the river the flush hits. A 1/2 pot bet would be nice.
Myself because I'm a chicken I would check/call, to give weaker hands a possible bluff, and to not have to fold te hand if he raises you allin after you bet.

Considering the dry flop we can still get value from some draws and lots of pairs with our ck/raise.

The problem we run when just calling is that we keep the pot small and villain may check back the turn too often.

As played we should bet the river for value. Villain will check back too many hands we get value from and there aren't many hands that he can bluff with (what hands can bluff after calling our ck/raise and turn bet)?

Question 3: You are on the flop with KsQd. The board cards are Js, 9c, 8h, and your opponent holds 7c7h. What is your equity in this spot?

This post has been edited 8 time(s), it was last edited by Jonkie76: 17.03.2013 15:13.

Question 1: Post a hand for evaluation where you have based your decisions on the stats of your opponents. (Post your hand in the Hand evaluation board, and provide a link to your hand in your private thread.)

Question 2: Evaluate one of the hands submitted by other members. (Choose a hand from the Hand evaluation board and post your own evaluation in the thread. Post a link to the hand you have evaluated in your private thread. You can evaluate as many hands as you want, but try to choose hands not yet evaluated by other users first.)

Answer 3:
My personal line would be to raise my hand. Villain 1 would have bet an overpair on the flop, so JJ+ is not in his range most off the time. His bet more looks like a Jx type of hand, which he had hit and like to protect. Villain 2 is a weak calling station, so he is calling with a wide range of hands, but has nothing special. So we want more money in the pot as probably most of the time our hand is the best hand, and we do not want any more diamonds on the board, which could cause damage to us as villains could hit a higher flush draw.

What action would you take, and why ?Answer 4:
I miss 3bet% and cbet% to make a good choise.
But against unknown, I would take the passive line to check, call en evaluate again on the turn.
If his betsize is pretty big, i probably would fold.
The question is , why would I call JJ oop preflop ?
It would get me in this very nasty spot.