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Issue with checking fault codes

I'm wondering whether someone has experienced the same issue I have and can provide some advice on how to sort it out. I have a series 2 N15 sedan (GA16), and I'm trying to retrieve the fault codes to further diagnose an issue I'm having. As far as I know, I need to bridge the two top right pins on the Consult port and then remove the bridge after a couple of seconds, whilst the key is in in the on position, but not running. I have tried this multiple times with a piece of wire/paperclip etc and no matter what, the check engine light does not flash any codes, not even a code 55. I have also tried a friend's scan tool, which suits multiple cars but does have a Consult adapter, with the key in the on position as well as whilst the car was running, to no avail either. I'm wondering why I'm having this issue? Is there anything else that needs to be done before I can retrieve the fault codes, like put the ECU into diagnostic mode or something like that?

Hey mate, I watched that video the other day, that's the procedure I have been attempting to do to no avail. I switch the key to the on position, the check engine light comes on and stays on, I bridge the two pins in the top right of the Consult port as shown per the video, remove it after a couple of seconds and the check engine light stays illuminated; there's no change at all. Very odd!

what happens when your friends scan tool is connected? it can't connect? maybe there is a wiring issue or the connection inside the plug is so bad the ECU isn't registering the short. what problems are you having ?

It's definitely as per the video, with the 'square edge' of the plug facing to the right.

Yeah that's exactly what was happening. When it was connected it was saying 'could not connect'. I'm not too sure to be honest, I need to have a better look at the plug and see what is going on but it definitely looks fine. The car is all original and hasn't been tampered with. Is there anywhere in particular I should be looking? Or just at the plug and the wires going into it?

The problem is a hesitation on acceleration from around 1250 to 2000rpm where the car completely loses power. It only does this whilst at operating temp. After 2000rpm it runs as per normal, builds power fine all the way to redline. I've been chasing this issue for a while now, and have a thread in the GA section. Since my last post in that I have done the following;

- Swapped leads with a known working set, no change
- Unplugged each lead, the car loses power to each cylinder as you'd expect
- Performed the same test with the injectors
- Tested AFM, by unplugging it as well as a multimeter test. Works fine. Also cleaned it with suitable cleaner.
- Checked spark plugs, they're not very old, they look fine.
- Checked TPS voltage at closed, partially open and wide open per Nissan specs, all good, voltage increases smoothly.
- Cleaned the IACV, and tested resistance per Nissan specs, all good. Tried driving around with it unplugged, no change.
- I've also checked the resistance of the coolant temp sensor which appears fine too. The sensor has a blue plug on it though, which I'm not sure is a genuine sensor. Considering the resistance is all good at different temperatures though I'd assume it's working?
- I replaced the vac lines to the EGR also, and cleaned out the little tube from the EGR valve to the BPT valve. One was completely split but that didn't help either.
- Pulled the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator to see if it let fuel out to see if it had a ruptured diaphragm, that was also fine.

So at the moment I'm at a loss as to what the issue is. I think I've narrowed it down to either the EGR system having issues or alternatively there's an issue with my distributor. It isn't very old however but is aftermarket and it was cheap.

Sorry for the huge post, but hopefully it gives some insight into the issue I've got and where to look next! The next thing I'll do is make some block off plates for the EGR as that's a fairly cheap thing to do and will rule it out as causing the issue. Failing that I'll look at putting a new ignition coil or CAS inside the dizzy, but I'd rather try the cheaper stuff first. Cheers.

Thanks for the reminder about the fuel pump mate! It is something I need to put a multimeter on and check. I can guarantee it'd be the original one though, and like you said, the strainer is likely to be filthy. Good advice about the fuel tank too, especially because you need to access it from inside the car!

EDIT: should have asked also mate, did you just put an ebay-spec fuel pump in? Or did you opt for a 'brand name' one?

I'll be sure to check that too. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I guess I could always disconnect the fuel feed line at the filter and put it in a jar to see whether there's any issues with pressure when the car is cold, as well as at operating temp.