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A wide choice of topics covered from the dawn of history right up to present days . Many of these have a wider relevance than purely within the context of Strathearn . The author's viewpoint often is at variance with the accepted opinions espoused elsewhere eg The Jacobite Uprisings and The Reformation .

Inchaffray Abbey

Inchaffray Abbey at Madderty - our forgotten heritage !

I wrote at some length about Inchaffray Abbey in my fourth and last book " More Tales of Crieff & Strathearn " . I have a strong fascination with the old Abbey and an equally strong indignation that it has been badly neglected " by the powers that be ". In Scotland we have the right to roam . This is our heritage - please feel free -where ever you are from- to visit this tranquil spot so steeped in our past . Read on !

Sketch of the Abbey ruins in 1794

The solitary gable remaining

The vault or crypt still remarkably intact !

This is where the High Alter was located and the burial place of Malise Earl of Strathearn

Some of the stonework remains intact

Trees and shrubbery chokes much

Hewn stonework is scattered around the site

I first visited Inchaffray
in the 1980s before it was encompassed
by the modern dwelling that has
now been erected immediately to the south . Why that erection ever
received planning permission remains a source of never ending incredulity !This together
with a total absence of signage and displayed information is quite
inexcusable . Inchaffray is located about
six miles east of Crieff .How do you get there ? Leave
Crieff on the A85 Trunk Road and
head through Gilmerton. Look for the sign to Madderty on the right hand side .
Proceed about a mile until you get to the copse of trees on an elevated
mound . That is INCHAFFRAY ! You will have
to climb over the small wall into what now remains . From the attached pictures you will note the standing gable , various small walls and an arched vault .
You can clearly see the scorch marks of
the fire in the 17th century !

The Abbey of Inchaffray is a part of Strathearn’s
heritage which has not been well looked after . Although generally regarded as an
Augustinian Abbey founded about 1200 ,
it does in fact pre date this by more than a few centuries. The site was
originally occupied by “ brethren “ which was the old Celtic Church or the Church of the Culdees . It was run by the brethren of St John of Strathearn
, the head of whom is designated “ Hermit “.

The Augustinian Abbey was founded
in 1199 by Earl Gilbert , Earl of Strathearn . Gilbert is reputed also to have
also founded the See of Dunblane . The Abbey was dedicated to the honour of God
, the Virgin Mary and St John the Evangelist . The Charters refer to and
designate it “ Insular Missarum “ or the “ Island of Masses “ . This is
translation from the original Gaelic name of Inchaffray . It is supposed
originally to have been an island set in the Pow at a time prior to that Burn
being turned into a natural drainage channel for the low lying areas around it
.

Gilbert appeared to have
considerable influence in the religious
circles of the time . It was stated that his Family of Strathearn of which he
was the progenitor “ were the only Scots subjects who can claim the distinction
of having founded a Bishopric , and inheriting its Patronage , unless we accept
the great Lords of Galloway , who appear to removed the Foundation of the See
of St Ninian “ .

The first Charter by Earl Gilbert
in favour of the Abbey is witnessed by Countess Matilda, his wife, and his six
sons, the last named being Gilchrist, who died in 1198. Before this, the Earl
had founded the House of Inchaffray; but then, the parents having chosen it as
a place of burial for their son they recorded their sorrow in an extended
foundation and endowment of their monastery. Malise, the Hermit, “in whose piety
and discretion the founders had all confidence,” was to be head, and to have
the selection. The Earl and Countess declared their affection for the place – “
So much do we love it, that we have chosen a Place of Sepulture in it for us
and our successors, and have already buried there our eldest born. ”

By its Great Charter, AD 1200,
this Abbey was endowed with the Churches of St. Kettanus of Aberuthven, of St
Ethirnanus of Madderty, of St. Patrick of Strogeath, of St. Mechesseock of
Auchterarder, of S. Beanus of Kinkell ; with the Tithe of the Earl’s cain ** (**
cheese) and Rents of wheat, meal, malt, cheese and all provisions used
throughout the year in his Court; with the Tithe of all fish brought into his
kitchen, and of the produce of his hunting; and the tithe of all the profits of
his courts of justice , and all offerings . The Convent had the liberty of
fishing in the Peffer, and of fishing and birding over all the Earl’s lands,
waters and lakes. . They might take timber for building, and other uses from
his woods, and have their pannage or mast – feeding for pigs as well as bark
and firewood, in whatever places and as much as they chose. Some years later,
Earl Gilbert granted to the Canons, now seated at Inchaffray, the Church of S.
Beanus at Foulis, with the “ dower ” land of the Church, and the common
pasturage of the parish, and the church of the Holy Trinity of Gask, with the
same privileges.

In his old age, Earl Gilbert took
a second wife, Ysenda, the daughter of a knightly family of the surname of
Gask. A Chronicle, which seems to have been written in the Diocese, or to be in
some other way peculiarly connected with Dunblane, records Earl Gilbert’s death
– “ Gilbertus fundatorcanonicorum Insule Missarum et episcopatus
Dunblanensis, obiit AD 1223 “. Earl Gilbert was succeeded by his son
Robert, who was also the good Patron of the Canons of Inchaffray. One of his Charters, indeed, savours of some
estrangement and reconciliation - Earl Robert, in the Church of Strogeath, in
the presence of Abraham, Bishop of Dunblane, Gilbert the Archdeacon, and other
notable witnesses, binds himself towards Innocent, the Abbot, that he will
never in all his life vex the said Abbot, or his Convent, unjustly; nay, will
love and every where honour them as his most special friends, and will add to
the possessions of their House whatever he may, by the counsel of his
friends . In particular, he confirms to
them the Churches of Gask and Strogeath.

As early as 1218, the Canons of Inchaffray had
reclaimed apportion of the vast marsh in which their “ Isle of Masses “ stood.
Nearly 500 years afterwards, the “ heritors upon the Pow of Inchaffray ”
applied to Parliament to appoint Commissioners for draining the whole marsh for
common benefit. The Act, which followed upon their petition, dated 9th October
1696, given in the Appendix to the Registrum of Inchaffery, is curious, as
perhaps the single instance of a great agricultural improvement effected under
the authority of the Scottish Parliament.

The Abbey of Inchaffray, though
respectably endowed, does not seem to rank among the greater monasteries of
Scotland such as Melrose or Dryburgh . The Abbots, though Prelates of Parliament, occur rarely in public
affairs, or in transactions which so frequently brought together Churchman of
various religious houses. We have thus only a very few names of the successive
Abbots preserved.

I will conclude this " blog " with a tale I copied many years ago which explains the sad demise of this fascinating but forgotten and neglected Abbey right on our own door step !

A
Strange tale about Inchaffray Abbey

( contained within the
Perthshire Collection of the historian Fittes in the Sandeman collection and
copied in 2003 in the AK Bell Library )

“Fiercely gleams the old monk’s home

To other lands thy now must roam

Their Abbey grey is clothed in fire

From lowest stone to topmost spire .“

Inchaffray is located in the Parish of Madderty ,
and was at one time one of the largest Abbeys in Scotland . It is said to have
contained upwards of 200 monks . One of the Abbots , as historical readers will
remember , carried the arm of St Fillan , and performed mass before the
Scottish Army , on the field of Bannockburn , where Scotland’s independence was
fought and won . The numerous church roads through that part of the country where
it is situated , show the paths on which trod many a ghostly father , as , leaving its hallowed sanctuary , they
went to their respective allocations in the vicinity to preach , pray and bless . Though now only a gable wall , small
arch , and a few crumbling ivy clad
walls are almost all that remains of its
former magnificence , it is reported to have been of vast extent . The solitary gable has already stood the test of many a winter
storm , and from its present state of solidity , may yet remain as a memorial
of the past for many a century to come . Trees now grow amid the ruins of the ancient place , and where once was heard the matin bell , or the sweet voice of
midnight prayer , nought now breaks the solitude but the wind , as it sighs amid the branches , or whistles drearily among the decaying
walls .

Connected with this ecclesiastical edifice hangs a strange tale . In 1665 , London was
afflicted with that awful scourge – the plague . Its victims were so
frightfully numerous that the living could scarcely bury the dead . Stalwart men
arose in the morning and ere evening
were numbered with the dead . The kiss
of love had scarcely faded from the lips of beauty ere she slept in the grave .
Parents saw the children of their affection seized with the dread distemper and almost instantly expire . No
class escaped its ravages . The very air seemed pregnant with death . Terror seized hold of the mind – the
better feelings of humanity were for the time forgotten . Thousands fled to the country in their excitement ,
they knew not where – they seemed not to care – if they only left that dreadful
charnel house behind . A lady , resident
in London , filled with the common fear , went , along with her servants , to
Scotland and took up her residence in Inchaffray Abbey ( by this time untenanted in consequence of
the abolition of the monasteries ) , expecting to find safety and repose . But
vain was the hope ! Scarcely had she arrived at her destination ere one of her
servants died of the very disease from whose scourge she had fled . The
inhabitants around heard that the plague was amongst them , and their terror
became extreme . They rose en masse and
barricaded the doors , and set fire to the whole building , mercilessly
determined to consume every soul within . Sickening was it to see and hear
those frantic maidens wringing their hands in intensest agony , and pleading at
the latticed windows to the stern hearted multitudes below for mercy , as the greedy flames were
almost encircling the place where they stood – but needless their prayer . Some
ascended to the highest turret , but the whole mass soon became enveloped in
fire , and with terrific shrieks , they disappeared amid the devouring ruin .
Terrible was it to see the midnight sky illuminated by the tremendous glare ,
and a s the wind ever and anon blew sheets of flame around , to hear , in
fancy’s ear , the despairing cries of the helpless mortals , who had already
perished amid the blazing element !

All perished , save a small dog , which by some
means escaped , and ran eastwards ,
carrying the infection with it .Another romantic reminiscence is connected with
the event . Two cousins , Bessy Bell and Mary Gray – desirous of escaping from
the contagion , went to the lonely banks
of the Almond, and with their own hands , erected a rude hut , in which for a
considerable time they lived a hermetical life . They held communication with
none , until the lover of one of them , anxious to see the lady of his choice ,
paid a fatal visit to their solitary dwelling . He was not long gone when both
fell victims to the disease . It is on them that Allan Ramsay composed the beautiful song of

“Bessy
Bell and Mary Gray ,

They were
twa bonny lasses ;

They
bigged a bower on yon burn brae ,

And theeked
it owre wi’ rashes .“

For long years the Abbey was shunned as a haunted
place . Numerous wild legends connected with it were repeated . The ploughman
whose duties occasionally impelled him to its neighbourhood hastened

“ Like one
that on a lonesome road ,

Doth walk
in fear and dread ;

And having
once turned round , walks on ,

And turns
no more his head . “

The schoolboy returning to his home in the evening
with beating heart , accelerated pace , and averted head , soon left the
inauspicious spot behind .The milk- maid , as she wandered through the
contagious fields “ at twilight’s contemplated hour , “ often fancied she heard
unearthly sounds echoing from the hoary pile . All looked upon it with a
suspicious eye . At “ the wee short hour ayont the twal , “ the boldest heart
would have quailed , if , passing the place , even a brown bush rustled in the
wind .

Rumour says that a vast quantity of treasure is
buried in the ruins . One old man is reported to have recovered a considerable
amount of valuables by digging around
the place ; but few , if any , possessed the nerve to make a thorough search .
The walls have served the surrounding farmers as a quarry for ages . Many
stones , whose quaint inscriptions would have delighted even the heart of a “ Jonathan
Oldbuck , “ are built in neighbouring dykes . No doubt the old glebe too ,
would have long ere now have been removed for similar purposes , were it not
for the trouble its demolition would have cost . There is an unworthy spirit of
vandalism abroad , even in Scotland - the land above every other of historic
associations and noble deeds , which
would tear down the remnants of antiquity , or even violate the martyr’s cairn if the stones would only aid in the
construction of a dyke or drain ! This
spirit cannot be too severely condemned . These relics of the past ought to be
looked upon with the utmost veneration . in France , they are upheld with the
greatest care . Scotland , however ,
leaves them to take care of themselves , and the result will soon be , that
many of the monuments of deeds which have made our country immortal will be destroyed by sacrilegious hands , and
the place that knew them once will know them no more again for ever . This is
much to be deplored . A Nation’s pride is at stake , and if it is desirable to leave to future
generations a few mementoes of the gallantry or piety of their sires , these
ought to be preserved inviolate .

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