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10.01.2009

Milan Spring 2010: Jil Sander

Raf Simons totally caught me off-guard with his Jil Sander spring collection. Just when I got used to his brand of modern minimalism, with its bright colors and sometimes architectural shapes, he conceives a collection that's all about delicate details, soft colors and a quiet sophistication that will eventually betray the appearance of his origins ("oh this? it's jil sander from spring 2010" "oh really?"). I have to admit that I didn't get it right away. After going through the pictures for the first time, I couldn't decide how I felt about it. I went to work the next day and my coworker asked me what I thought of the show, he said he thought it was great. I trust his eye, and so I went to take a more detailed look.And then another.And then another.Finally I looked at the detail shots, and that's when it all clicked in my head. This is just not a collection that translates well into standard runway pictures. I know that if I had been in the same room, watching the clothes parade in front of me and seing them move I would've had some kind of heart-attack.I guess it's better that I rely on Style.com then.

All the looks are simple, sophisticated and classic-borderline-all American (Lauren Hutton on a safari), but there's something different here. The way a fabric crinkles, the perfect masculine-feminine slouch, the muted colors, the subtle sensuality of perfectly tousled bedhair and unassuming sinuous silhouettes. A white wide-legged trouser pantsuit is the epitome of timeless, and adding a brown belt over the jacket is the perfect "unexpected" accessory. Basic shift dresses are meticulously cut and will stand out in a sea of garish colors and sequins, especially with surprise fluorishes at the shoulders or hips. It's all very organic.

Then of course you look up closes and everything gets a new feeling. Artfully frayed edges, delicate ruffled and a particularly amazing back where it look like the dres has retreated upon itself, exposing the back but leaving a tiny bit of a collar, and creating a spectacular cascade of fabric at the sleeves. It's all almost too beautiful.