Kathryn Rem: Springfield chef gets Executive invitation

It’s not often that a guest chef gets to cook in the kitchen of the Executive Mansion. But that’s what happened last month to Carlos De Leon, the owner of Springfield’s Maya Buffet restaurant.

Kathryn Rem

It’s not often that a guest chef gets to cook in the kitchen of the Executive Mansion. But that’s what happened last month to Carlos De Leon, the owner of Springfield’s Maya Buffet restaurant.

The event was a March 31 birthday celebration for the late Cesar Chavez, the Mexican-American farm worker and civil rights activist who co-founded what is now the United Farm Workers of America. His birthday is known as Cesar Chavez Day, a legal state holiday in California and a commemorative one in several other states.

The Latino legislative caucus of the Illinois General Assembly scheduled a dinner at the mansion on that day to honor Chavez. But they wanted to find a chef who knew how to prepare authentic Mexican dishes. Some of the senators and representatives were familiar with the food at Maya Buffet, located not far from the Illinois State Capitol, and De Leon was invited to prepare the dinner for 65 guests.

De Leon grew up in Chiapas, site of the Mayan ruins in southern Mexico, and learned to cook from his mother and grandmother. After moving to this area, he worked in law enforcement for Lincoln Land Community College and the towns of Thayer, Leland Grove and Meredosia. But a work-related injury ended his police career. In 2007, he opened El Maya Mexican Restaurant in Taylorville.

Springfield, however, was where he lived and wanted to work. So he closed the Taylorville eatery and opened Maya Buffet in February 2008.

De Leon is proud of his recipes, most of which come from his family.

The cuisine, he said, is “more flavorful than most Mexican food. We use a little more condiments and it’s cooked to perfection.” Two of the restaurant’s signature offerings are margaritas, made with fresh lime juice, and mole, a smoky and sweet sauce with chiles and chocolate that takes hours to make.

On the day of the big event, De Leon prepped the food at his restaurant, then packed it up and took it to the mansion kitchen, where he finished cooking before the dinner.

“It was amazing. They have a huge kitchen. I wish I had that kitchen in my restaurant. I don’t think I have even a quarter of the kitchen,” De Leon said.

Among the items on the menu were chicken with mole sauce, steak fajitas, chicken in a poblano and mushroom cream sauce, vegetarian enchiladas with corn tortillas and fresh vegetables, rice and beans and fresh margaritas.

Gov. Pat Quinn was there.

“I made for him a special plate. I put a little bit of everything on the plate. When he was done, he went back for a little more,” De Leon said proudly. He has a photo of himself with the governor that was snapped that night.

Mansion curator Dave Bourland said it’s rare for a guest chef to cook at the governor’s official home.

“We only allow that when it’s for the House or the Senate,” he said.

The next day, De Leon was back dicing tomatoes and frying tortillas at his corner restaurant.

“I’m not a chain. I’m just a small business. I’m the server. I’m the cook. Sometimes I’m the dishwasher. That’s how it is when you own a restaurant.”