tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4971712170985380042018-09-17T03:13:53.386-07:00Boat ProjectsVarious boat projects and ideas related to boating in general. Feel free to contribute your project. We are looking for the unusual; the new or different technique; or boat improvement project or product that others may find useful. Please email us at solaceadventures at gmail dot com to tell us about something you might have, to put on our blog site. Please, limit your comments to the subject or item(s) discussed. Businesses posting, that don't adhere to this, will be deleted.Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.comBlogger158125BoatProjectshttps://feedburner.google.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-38616524852773193962015-04-13T19:34:00.000-07:002015-04-13T19:34:28.586-07:00Cellphone Boosting<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AV7a5H4qbyI/VSx76Wy8_uI/AAAAAAAABN4/cMh2msQCNdk/s1600/We%2BBoost.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AV7a5H4qbyI/VSx76Wy8_uI/AAAAAAAABN4/cMh2msQCNdk/s1600/We%2BBoost.jpg" height="294" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cradle type booster by weBoost</td></tr></tbody></table>Cell phones are becoming an essential tool not just for coastal cruisers wanting to keep in touch, but more and more people are using their phones &nbsp;as data wifi hotspots for their computers and instruments. We used our ipad extensively for navigating ( along with our charts) using google earth, in the Maldives. We were able to do this because they had excellent cell coverage over the whole archipelago. &nbsp;It made choosing an anchorage easier, as we were able to see what reefs were around and could even see "bomies" (Coral Heads). It gave me more confidence, in navigating around these, than the charts. The charts do show isolated rocks at times, but google earth seemed more accurate.<br />Anyway, cell coverage is now more important to us, and with that goes the need to get cell coverage in more remote areas. Often in these remote areas, coverage is poor, but that can be improved with a cell phone booster.<br />Some of you may be interested in taking a look at these devices, made by <a href="http://store.weboost.com/products/drive-4gx"><span style="color: red;">weBoost</span></a>, formally Wislson Electronics. Here is a promotional video put out by them. Jump over to their website and take a look.<br /><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3g8oe_k-tUU" width="640"></iframe> <img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/HRzsmNRM8eE" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2015/04/cellphone-boosting.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-44715379472803999522014-11-14T03:38:00.002-08:002014-11-14T03:38:49.046-08:00Quick and Effective, Water Hose Repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-0qNdViz5U/VGXj1e9qsbI/AAAAAAAABM8/NgLb2RUZA0c/s1600/PA020538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-0qNdViz5U/VGXj1e9qsbI/AAAAAAAABM8/NgLb2RUZA0c/s1600/PA020538.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>I've been cruising for a while now, and sometimes you can not get proper boat bits in the more remote parts of the world.<br />Recently I replaced a raw water hose which had a steel spiral wound "spring" in the core of the water hose, which gave the hose "anti kinking properties" when bent around corners.<br />This hose however corroded at the ends and the hose started to leak at the ends.<br />I replaced it with this hose shown to the left. Good quality radiator hose without the wire. When I installed the hose, it took the radius I imposed on it just fine. However after some months of running the engine, I discovered the hose kinked like that shown to the left.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jPR-7dflhZE/VGXj131jXwI/AAAAAAAABNA/H0DonQW7GBw/s1600/PA020539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jPR-7dflhZE/VGXj131jXwI/AAAAAAAABNA/H0DonQW7GBw/s1600/PA020539.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>I had no new hose other than the same type to install and lamented having not purchased the spiral wire bound hose to replace the original. I also didn't have a 25mm elbow to replace the kink with, BUT did have 38mm radiator hose pieces. I used one of these pieces to make the bend. The kinked hose was cut at the kink and the ends push fitted into the elbow.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxTM7gels1c/VGXj16QQi3I/AAAAAAAABNE/J_vDEYXm3SY/s1600/PA020542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxTM7gels1c/VGXj16QQi3I/AAAAAAAABNE/J_vDEYXm3SY/s1600/PA020542.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>Finally I used the tool shown to the left (<span style="color: red;">which an explanation of how to use can be found here</span>).<br />The hose has been installed for a month now, and is both water tight and kink free. This will do until I can purchase the original type of hose which I will carry spare lenghs for future replacement<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/n4MWJen-9Lg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/11/quick-and-effective-water-hose-repair.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-49261589429365174092014-07-05T04:08:00.000-07:002014-07-05T04:08:33.359-07:00Portable Fuel Transfer Pump and Filter<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2HNtMWsrlCM/U7fPmEF773I/AAAAAAAABL0/xSgn7_cWadU/s1600/P7050523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2HNtMWsrlCM/U7fPmEF773I/AAAAAAAABL0/xSgn7_cWadU/s1600/P7050523.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pump and Filter in Plastic Box</td></tr></tbody></table>Have you ever siphoned fuel and got a mouth full of diesel?<br />Have you &nbsp;ever transferred fuel to your boat with jerry cans and other fuel containers with no pouring spouts?<br />Need a quick and easy method to transfer fuel?<br />I recently made a fuel transfer pump with filter for transferring diesel fuel from tank to tank or jerry can. I needed this through out South East Asia, where the fuel most often was not clean. I also had to obtain fuel in jerry cans as fuel docks were few and far between. This necessitated pumping out of the jerry cans so that what went into my tanks, went through a filter first. Since then, I have also used it to pump fuel between tanks so that I can clean the fuel tanks from time to time. In fact, if my tank is not heavily contaminated, I use the pump system shown here to "vacuum" the bottom of the tank. The fuel filter stops all the contaminants and separates the water out.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YJjxhcIf-Vk/U7fSbGNrLdI/AAAAAAAABME/ngAWIH8QtmY/s1600/1000x1000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YJjxhcIf-Vk/U7fSbGNrLdI/AAAAAAAABME/ngAWIH8QtmY/s1600/1000x1000.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">&nbsp;CAV Filter</td></tr></tbody></table>I used a CAV filter housing similar to the one shown to the right, along with an oil tranfer pump (12V). The filters for these are readily available in most countries around the world, and quite cheap.<br />The oil transfer pump, which I use for the diesel fuel, has a switch on the end of the pump, which makes for easy on/off operation.<br />It was just a case of connecting the hoses, hose tails, and wiring with a long piece of duplex wire with alligator clips to connect to a power source. This was all placed in a plastic box for ease of handling, and to keep it "water proof" as I store it in my aft lockers, where sometimes sea water will get in.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_RhJ1X9UvTI/U7fPmAshFuI/AAAAAAAABL4/J2kD5oTNfeU/s1600/P7050525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_RhJ1X9UvTI/U7fPmAshFuI/AAAAAAAABL4/J2kD5oTNfeU/s1600/P7050525.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packed and ready for it's Lid</td></tr></tbody></table>The filter housing was mounted to the side of the box to keep it upright.<br />Hoses are easily stored with the pump and the whole setup is ready to go. I used fuel line hose.<br />Warning! The pump I used is OK for diesel fuel, but Not &nbsp;for use with petrol.<br />To keep the whole lot from having fuel leak into the box, I used rubber bungs on the end of the hose. You can see one on the hose in the picture to the left.<br />You can also use the box for a diesel rag, if you use one from time to time<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SNz2EmFa4nQ/U7faZPVt14I/AAAAAAAABMU/6efnAkyfIjc/s1600/j17830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SNz2EmFa4nQ/U7faZPVt14I/AAAAAAAABMU/6efnAkyfIjc/s1600/j17830.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The type of pump used in my fuel transfer/filter box</td></tr></tbody></table>.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/WjFA6xtbN98" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/07/portable-fuel-transfer-pump-and-filter.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-88258699521907820852014-07-03T09:03:00.001-07:002014-07-05T03:10:14.710-07:00Adapting Old Water Pipe to New<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXGMwlQy2kY/U7VskdwjkEI/AAAAAAAABJo/cFhQxLN0cQc/s1600/P7030513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GXGMwlQy2kY/U7VskdwjkEI/AAAAAAAABJo/cFhQxLN0cQc/s1600/P7030513.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>On my boat, I have half inch water pipe made from a "plastic" and flexible material. Unfortunately, this is now outdated, with most boats now using 15mm flexible pipe. This presents problems with adapting the old to the new. Also, the fittings used to connect this pipe, (black elbow to left) are no longer available and sometimes come apart.<br />In New Zealand they have a 12.5mm pipe with push in fittings. You would think the half inch pipe might fit...., but no, it doesn't.<br />So here's how I have over come this problem...<br />Fortunately this plastic pipe is similar in size to copper half inch pipe and the compression fittings are available at most plumbing hardware stores.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dbW9HHfAu6Q/U7VskZzjihI/AAAAAAAABJ8/26H_BT1pObg/s1600/P7030516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dbW9HHfAu6Q/U7VskZzjihI/AAAAAAAABJ8/26H_BT1pObg/s1600/P7030516.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>To the right is a photo of old and new fittings used to attach to the faucet at the sink.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5uWRy_BI-DQ/U7VskKk4NuI/AAAAAAAABJ4/V9rxYlfrLUQ/s1600/P7030512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5uWRy_BI-DQ/U7VskKk4NuI/AAAAAAAABJ4/V9rxYlfrLUQ/s1600/P7030512.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>To the left is the new compression fitting disassembled. To the inside, is a rubber ring and star washer to grip the pipe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-idFoX5tp6_I/U7VvWyeSYXI/AAAAAAAABKU/0kl5fYUCg_Q/s1600/P7030514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-idFoX5tp6_I/U7VvWyeSYXI/AAAAAAAABKU/0kl5fYUCg_Q/s1600/P7030514.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>Compare the above photo to the plastic one to the right. They work in a very similar fashion.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TeX4jQg8zi8/U7VvW5fWsnI/AAAAAAAABKQ/5ypy-5rmhLA/s1600/P7030506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TeX4jQg8zi8/U7VvW5fWsnI/AAAAAAAABKQ/5ypy-5rmhLA/s1600/P7030506.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>The fittings come in a number of arrangements. I bought a straight connector, a "T", and end threaded adapter.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TzcnyGd-e2U/U7VvW9wdxOI/AAAAAAAABKM/G-3e5uJyGGw/s1600/P7030519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TzcnyGd-e2U/U7VvW9wdxOI/AAAAAAAABKM/G-3e5uJyGGw/s1600/P7030519.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>To the right, the nut goes on first, then the star washer, followed by the rubber washer. Once the pipe is inserted into the fitting, the nut is screwed down to secure the pipe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QEYRr36CxbM/U7VxN221X_I/AAAAAAAABKk/ORUTk9uxfD4/s1600/P7030517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QEYRr36CxbM/U7VxN221X_I/AAAAAAAABKk/ORUTk9uxfD4/s1600/P7030517.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>Now, the fitting, made for copper pipe, doesn't quite fit the plastic pipe, so a little modification has to be done.<br />First, use a dremel stone to slightly enlarge the hole in the center of the compression nut so that it slides over the plastic pipe. It only needs a "human hair" thickness taken off.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fYDs3YwuaMo/U7VxNUUQoFI/AAAAAAAABKo/zWnJy1H1rCg/s1600/P7030515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fYDs3YwuaMo/U7VxNUUQoFI/AAAAAAAABKo/zWnJy1H1rCg/s1600/P7030515.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>The pipe also has to fit the fitting. This requires a little sanding on the end so the pipe fits, snugly.<br />You can see that, in the photo to the right.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1WgwKi-jEGQ/U7VxN-RZG7I/AAAAAAAABK0/xebWQDV7cUU/s1600/P7030521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1WgwKi-jEGQ/U7VxN-RZG7I/AAAAAAAABK0/xebWQDV7cUU/s1600/P7030521.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>When assembling, slide the fitting onto the end of the pipe and mark with a felt pen. Slide off the fitting and then with the nut first, slide on the star washer with the points towards the yet to be fitted copper fitting. Slide this on till just past the pen line so that when the rubber washer is placed, it is is pushed on till just past the pen line.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MiinyoPrYhU/U7VxOXYznbI/AAAAAAAABK8/05u9j46e-jM/s1600/P7030522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MiinyoPrYhU/U7VxOXYznbI/AAAAAAAABK8/05u9j46e-jM/s1600/P7030522.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />To the right is the fitting about to have the nut screwed on to make the compression. Once that is done, regular plumbing fittings can be attached.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eeIFERSDgms/U7V5kv99cMI/AAAAAAAABLI/DVfhpqwEwgQ/s1600/220px-Compression_fitting_isolating_valve_15mm_screwdriver_turn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eeIFERSDgms/U7V5kv99cMI/AAAAAAAABLI/DVfhpqwEwgQ/s1600/220px-Compression_fitting_isolating_valve_15mm_screwdriver_turn.jpg" /></a></div>I've also had success with another type of compression fitting using a copper compression sleeve shown to the left. However, on occasion, some of these have leaked due to the copper sleeve not being perfectly aligned before compression. One has to remove a short piece of the pipe, (because the compressed sleeve is almost impossible to get off) and place a new compression sleeve on and make sure it is seated correctly before tightening up. It seems to me, the compression fitting with the rubber washer is a better fit and can be reused if one has to und<span style="text-align: center;">o the nut.</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9dGardcOOxU/U7fKGNogN8I/AAAAAAAABLc/1LHb8d4HcGk/s1600/P7050526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9dGardcOOxU/U7fKGNogN8I/AAAAAAAABLc/1LHb8d4HcGk/s1600/P7050526.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>Another method, show to the right is to get a hose tail with a plumbing threaded end, and attach with a suitable hose clip , or for a more secure fitting, use the wire tightener, and it's use&nbsp;<a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/clamp-tite-tool-for-your-projects.html"><span style="color: red;">can be viewed here</span></a>.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/EsrNTV5FMZI" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/07/adapting-old-water-pipe-to-new.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-82582720454621117902014-05-16T22:36:00.000-07:002014-05-16T22:36:04.051-07:00Hole Saw Enlarger<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CdPYosVkrc/U3bys8yd7UI/AAAAAAAABJU/4L3CH6VQvyY/s1600/HoleSawEnlarger.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CdPYosVkrc/U3bys8yd7UI/AAAAAAAABJU/4L3CH6VQvyY/s1600/HoleSawEnlarger.png" height="211" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Here's a handy tool. A Hole Saw Enlarger.</span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Expands holes in tight retrofit situations. Applications are many and varied but are not limited to, door lock installations, through holes, and for conduit fittings.</span></span><br /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 15px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><div class="clear" style="background-color: #f8f8f8; border: 0px; clear: both; color: #333333; line-height: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;</span></div><div class="bottom-content" style="background-color: #f8f8f8; border: 0px; color: #333333; line-height: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><div class="detail-container" style="border: 0px; float: left; margin: 0px; padding: 16px 0px 0px; width: 616px;"><h2 class="gradient" style="border: 0px; color: #007cc3; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.3em; margin: 0px; padding: 6px 0px; text-transform: uppercase; width: 616px;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">FEATURES</span></h2><div class="detail-list-container" style="border: 0px; float: left; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; width: 616px;"><ul style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><li style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Changes hole saw sizes in seconds - Enlarging a hole is quick and easy with the HE1 Hole Enlarger Kit from Bosch. You use two hole saws, the original saw that you cut the first hole with and the hole saw size you want the new hole to be. You combine both hole saws with the dual adapter and us the mandrel to attach it to your drill. Insert the first hole saw tip into the hole and start enlarging</span></li><li style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Provides easy plug removal with angled reinsertion of the pilot bit</span></li><li style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Makes the Bosch Quick Change system universal. Quick change adapters fit most major brand of holesaws</span></li><li style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Enlarges any existing hole that matches a hole saw diameter, starting with 9/16-in - 6-in</span></li></ul></div></div></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/II1Y7yxTejg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/05/hole-saw-enlarger.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-6361256339875910542014-04-28T23:08:00.001-07:002014-04-28T23:08:18.018-07:00NMEA 2000; Some Limitations and Cautions<div class="MsoNormal">The intent of this article is to familiarize the boat owner with some limitations that I and others have found with NMEA2000.<br /><br />NMEA2000 technology was borrowed from the non-marine industry (CAN bus) and adapted to the boating industry. Unfortunately, that has left it with some short comings which I will attempt to explain in this article. Also along the way, some manufacturer's have seen fit to produce products that don't fully comply with the nmea standard.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal"><u>So what is NMEA2000?</u></div><div class="MsoNormal">The idea for which the bus was developed, is effectively to use a display from manufacturer A, and possibly a sensor from manufacturer B, connect them both to the NMEA2000 network, and the display will show what the sensor detects. In the ideal network, this should be possible. Even NMEA 0183 could do this in a limited way.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Prior to the development of NMEA2000, the boating industry used an older standard for interconnecting equipment; NMEA 0183. This standard was meant to provide a point-to-point connection between two devices. Obviously the point-to-point scheme between just two devices, is very limited. NMEA 0183 is great for simple applications. It’s so good, in fact, that an updated, high-speed version has been introduced to handle the information from AIS receivers. But a truly integrated system requires more than NMEA 0183 can provide.&nbsp; NMEA 2000 is 50 times faster than its predecessor, NMEA 0183, so it can handle data from up to 50 different devices, but it’s still not the complete answer. That’s because those message headers can occupy any amount of data up to half of each frame. <i>The result is that NMEA 2000 is too slow and inefficient to be useful for complex data such as video images or cartography.</i>&nbsp; NMEA2000 is a shared network, not unlike Ethernet, where many sensors, displays, and control units can be interconnected on one common network but has severe bandwidth restrictions to what is available over ethernet.&nbsp;</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">Also, when in implementing the standard, manufacturers, for whatever reason, have tended to "go their own way" with NMEA2000. For instance, some of the first generation NMEA2000 hardware used different (and incompatible) connectors, depending on the manufacturer. An example of the first generation incompatible connectors are the Lowrance "Blue" connectors, which will only connect to a Lowrance NMEA2000 device. Fortunately, most manufacturers have seen fit to finally embrace the standard, and Lowrance's "Red" connectors are NMEA2000 standardized, and will interconnect with any other vendor's NMEA2000 connector.&nbsp;</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div><div class="MsoNormal">In addition, Maretron does provide field installable connectors that you can use to correct the early manufactured non-standard connections. For instance, with Lowrance "Blue" devices, I cut the connector off and installed a Maretron field installable connector to make them compatible with the network.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br /></div>However, there are still some incompatibilities across the various manufacturers as each manufacturer is allowed to develop their own private data packets in addition to the standard (or public) packets defined by the NMEA2000 standard and used by everybody. As well, not every device understands every packet - even the standard NMEA2000 defined packets. That rudder packet may be ignored by a certain display if it doesn't have the capability to display rudder information. <i>For that reason, you cannot simply use any display with any sensor.</i> You may need to review the capabilities of the display unit you wish to use to ensure it can read the sensor. Fortunately, most manufacturers do publish this information.<br /><br /><b>So this leads me to my first caution... </b><br />Because of these "private data packets",&nbsp; some vendors may purposely use private PGNs (those that only that manufacturer's equipment understands). So a certain device may only be able to be read&nbsp; that manufacturer's equipment, regardless of whether or not the device has a standard connector. <br />Also, many sensors must be programmed before use, and this usually requires a display unit of the same manufacturer to program them. However, once programmed - the sensor may be able to be detected by any other manufacturer's product. This incompatibility still exists to some degree, so <i>be aware when mixing products from different manufacturers that you may run across a few problems</i>.<br /><br /><u>Building a Network</u> <br />NMEA-2000 initially provided for two network cabling schemes; called Mini and Micro. Maretron now offers a third scheme called Mid. So the first question to answer is which one do I use? While each cabling scheme is identical in their bus configuration, the major difference is the capacity each network will provide. They are: <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wKNq1KkYdVA/U149No38f7I/AAAAAAAABIw/0zx4Z7kHU10/s1600/11.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wKNq1KkYdVA/U149No38f7I/AAAAAAAABIw/0zx4Z7kHU10/s1600/11.png" height="100" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Since each device on the network requires a different amount of power (i.e. a display unit is likely to demand more power than a sensor), <b><i>some thought must be given to how much total power the various devices require</i></b>. NMEA-2000 includes a LEN specification that every NMEA-2000 device must provide. ( 1 LEN = 50mA ) Therefore, if a sensor states that it has a LEN of 5, you know that it's current requirement is 250mA. The idea of the LEN is to add them all up, and they should be less than the maximum LEN of the cable. From the chart, essentially the decision of which cable to use is determined by the length of the network you want to install, and the number of devices you need to support, and their total current requirement.<br /><br /><u>But there are limitations to the network.</u><br />The cable distance between any two points (a point being an electronic product or terminator) must not exceed 250 meters (820 feet) for a system based on the Mini or Mid trunk cable or 100 meters (328 feet) for a system based on a Micro trunk cable<br />AND the cumulative drop line length is the sum of all drop lines, Mini, Mid or Micro cable in the cabling system; This sum cannot exceed 78 meters (256 feet) and no single device can be more than 6 meters (20 feet) from the trunk line.<br /><b><i>This places limits for sail boats with masts greater than 20 feet</i></b>. Effectively it means the main trunk of the Network has to go up the mast, and&nbsp; to cover instruments or sensors forward of the mast the main trunk has to do a big "U" back, or use a drop line no more than 20 feet. If one wants to put more than one sensor at the top of the mast, the wiring becomes more of a problem with probably the "T' junctions and terminator living outside the mast in the elements.<br /><br />BUT in addition to this, excessive voltage drop can be an issue when using Micro cable, due to the small size of the power wires within the backbone. Especially on long cable runs you can have excessive voltage drop, even if the total power required by all of the devices is less than the LEN rating of the cable. To determine the voltage drop, an easy formula can be used: Voltage drop = LEN X Cable Length(in meters) X Cable Resistance(in ohms)/100<br /><br />Clearly for sailboats the micro cable probably can't be used, but one could use a Micro network with a Mid backbone cable. Essentially the only difference is that the Mid cable uses 16 AWG power wires, where the Micro cable uses 22 AWG. Otherwise, all of the connectors and terminators are identical. This is the most cost-effective solution as Mid cables do not really cost much more than a Micro cable, and you can still use the less expensive Micro connectors and drop cables.<br /><br />One important item that needs repeating is voltage drop.&nbsp; Attention must also be given to the feed wires. The wiring route from the battery to the NMEA22000 power tee should be minimized to reduce voltage loss. This is sometimes difficult as often, the power switch for the network logically belongs at the helm, however (especially with a center-feed network), the power tee may be located some distance from the helm. One solution is to install a relay near the power tap, which is switched at the helm. The relay would allow a remote switch at the helm to turn the network on or off with minimum voltage loss.<br /><br /><b>Now my second caution...... </b><br />Now consider this. If there is a problem with the NMEA2000 back bone, every piece of gear on that network that is dependent on it, stops working. Everything, that comunicates with each other, becomes non effective.<br /><ul><li>The GPS stops working, including the plotter</li><li>The fluxgate compass&nbsp; doesn't work</li><li>Engine instruments don't work</li><li>AIS doesn't show anything</li><li>the autpilot stops working because it doesn't get a heading from the compass&nbsp;</li></ul>Get the picture? Now we all know this will happen at the most inopportune&nbsp; moment.&nbsp; One may start (trying to find the fault) by unconnecting and reconnecting every connector on the back bone to make sure that they are properly connected. There can be meters of cabling in hard to reach and dar,k places on your boat and all it takes is just one of those connectors to fail and it's "lights out". And if the problem is intermittent, as it very likely will be, then the trouble shooting is going to be ten times more difficult. Then if cleaning and reseating connectors or terminators cannot solve a problem, then by all means seek the professional help of an NMEA-certified electronics technician. Good luck with that, in some of the locations we go to!<br /><br />What we need to think about is what a network failure will do to us on a dark night in a tricky situation. We must have a backup plan. And because of the issues with trouble shooting these complex systems in remote places, it would be good to have a plan for continuing our cruise without all this interconnection potential problems. Here's some things that could help<br /><ul><li>&nbsp;Have a plotter with a separately connected GPS sensor, or GPS with paper charts, available. Or consider an iPad with it's own charting system. We use it all the time now, to compare two separate chart systems. It has it's own GPS</li><li>There is a separate AIS unit with its own screen and direct connection to its own GPS within sight of the helm. Some of the latest up market VHF have AIA receivers on the screen.</li><li>There are backup hard wired, or mechanically connected, engine instruments.</li><li>And don't forget a properly swung magnetic compass.&nbsp;</li></ul>&nbsp;Now it's not that I'm against NMEA2000. I like the idea of just one cable running the length of the boat. But consider this; since the 14 years NMEA2000 has been out, we now find a class of products specifically marketed to users of existing navigation software that offer to gateway from NMEA2000 physical networks to USB, translating NMEA2000 packets on the fly to NMEA0183 sentences that existing software can read. This reveals that NMEA2000 adds little information and little value to the contents of an NMEA0183 stream of navigation data. The coupling of NMEA2000 to a proprietary physical network is so tight that there is no standard for shipping it over USB, RS232, Ethernet, or any of the other physical networks commonly used in the general computing market at the present time. However, in the near future,&nbsp; NMEA is going to release a standard called "OneNet" for interfacing NMEA2000 to ethernet and I suspect the bridges to USB etc will appear around the same time.<br /><br />So when that comes about, are boats then going to run another cabling system around their boat to accommodate for the higher bandwidth of devices today, that NMEA2000 can't handle? It sort of defeats the purpose of running just one cable. NMEA2000 specification itself is proprietary and expensive. Ethernet is more of an open standard and open source and open protocols grow markets and create opportunities. NMEA2000 sharply illustrates the obverse of this point. It is tied tightly to a specific physical networking scheme, and has made the specification expensive and proprietary. And so in 2014, I look at NMEA2000 and see how atypical and archaic it looks. Binary packets instead of HTTP?&nbsp; Proprietary physical layers that don't lead to a nice plug and play? And bandwidth handicapped! This is not the direction the rest of the Web-enabled&nbsp; world is moving. Imagine having google earth directly overlayed on to your charts, integrated web tracking of your AIS information as standard on your chartplotter; just to mention of few.<br /><br /> NMEA 2000 operates at 250 kbits/second, very slow compared to Ethernet. Because of this bandwidth limitation, sonar and radar overlays can't be sent over the NMEA 2000 networks, that is why all the major manufacturers have their own proprietary networks for sonar and radar integration with their large display devices. But, NMEA2000 has a few advantages over Ethernet, cost, a collision-less system, time sensitive point to point delivery to name a few. It was developed to function in electrically noisy environments and to have a predictable delivery time for messages. Ethernet does not always provide a real time predictable delivery time or quality of service capabilities.<br /><br /><div id="stcpDiv" style="left: -1988px; position: absolute; top: -1999px;">goal for OneNet is to "Transport NMEA 2000 network messages on Ethernet in a standardized manner" or as the release's subtitle says "Think of it as NMEA 2000 on steroids." That's because OneNet will break out of N2K's speed and node limitations big time, like increasing the maximum number of devices from 50 to over 65,000! (Now, that would be quite a vessel.) - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2012/08/onenet_nmea_finally_creates_a_marine_ethernet_standard.html#sthash.chOhWjdS.dpuf</div>Now, I'm not going to comment much about OneNET (as it still hasn't been released in it's final form), but it's stated goal is to transport NMEA2000 packet data on Ethernet in a standardized form. Think of it as NMEA2000 on steroids. This will break out nmea2000 speed limit and node limitations by a huge amount. The number of devices would increase from 50 to over 65,000! I don't see OneNET replaceing NMEA2000 or NMEA 0183 in the near future, but I am left wondering why NMEA has made this protocol so late, with an internet PC centric world everywhere. Also, I suspect, at least initially, it won't play nice with with existing ethernet devices, and I'm pretty sure it won't carry both NMEA2000 packets as well as NMEA0183 data sentences at the same time. You will need to use another gateway for that. However, once they convert NMEA to Ethernet the possibly of connecting to the outside world is endless.<br /><br />What all this boils down to is that we boaters have three main ways of creating a network, each of which complements the strengths and weaknesses of the others: NMEA 0183 is perfect for very simple systems—it’s tried, tested, and virtually universal. NMEA 2000 is for most current multisensor/multidisplay systems, and Ethernet is suited to handle large volumes of complex data. Your best to consult your marine electronics expert to see what best suits your application. For me, I'm still running mostly NMEA0183, and with that, I have a number of back up solutions which give me confidence that when the lights go out on my main network, I can use the backup to get home safely. By that time, OneNet may be well established, and it could be a good time to upgrade. I'll just have to do my homework on the best system at the time, which is what we all do mostly.<br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aGK8zwVwpgM/U183v5rdYYI/AAAAAAAABJA/aCg6Sik0RCc/s1600/Comparison.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aGK8zwVwpgM/U183v5rdYYI/AAAAAAAABJA/aCg6Sik0RCc/s1600/Comparison.png" height="209" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Comparison of the main types of networks/standards</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><div id="stcpDiv" style="left: -1988px; position: absolute; top: -1999px;">OneNet will not replace NMEA 2000 or NMEA 0183 within the foreseeable future. Each will have its place on a boat - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2012/08/onenet_nmea_finally_creates_a_marine_ethernet_standard.html#sthash.chOhWjdS.dpuf</div><div id="stcpDiv" style="left: -1988px; position: absolute; top: -1999px;">goal for OneNet is to "Transport NMEA 2000 network messages on Ethernet in a standardized manner" or as the release's subtitle says "Think of it as NMEA 2000 on steroids." That's because OneNet will break out of N2K's speed and node limitations big time, like increasing the maximum number of devices from 50 to over 65,000! (Now, that would be quite a vessel.) - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2012/08/onenet_nmea_finally_creates_a_marine_ethernet_standard.html#sthash.chOhWjdS.dpuf</div><div id="stcpDiv" style="left: -1988px; position: absolute; top: -1999px;">goal for OneNet is to "Transport NMEA 2000 network messages on Ethernet in a standardized manner" or as the release's subtitle says "Think of it as NMEA 2000 on steroids." That's because OneNet will break out of N2K's speed and node limitations big time, like increasing the maximum number of devices from 50 to over 65,000! (Now, that would be quite a vessel.) - See more at: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2012/08/onenet_nmea_finally_creates_a_marine_ethernet_standard.html#sthash.chOhWjdS.dpuf</div><ul></ul><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/MIFI3X7AZ2k" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com2http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/04/nmea-2000-some-limitations-and-cautions.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-31642475117408568042014-03-30T02:18:00.000-07:002014-03-30T02:19:48.510-07:00Raw Water Pump Mounting Modification<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-REHQe0eG7uM/UzfdM-IXJEI/AAAAAAAABIE/jL0rVL3FpkQ/s1600/P2210484.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-REHQe0eG7uM/UzfdM-IXJEI/AAAAAAAABIE/jL0rVL3FpkQ/s1600/P2210484.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copper spacer in place ready for mounting</td></tr></tbody></table>A while ago I replaced my raw water pump for my Westerbeke engine and discovered that the replacement pump had a flat foot for mounting that would not fit in the machined groove of it's mounting bracket. ( machined groove can be seen in last photo). The original pump had been machined to allow for this, but the replacement had not.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pQ9zRYA1-f0/UzfdMzH9fQI/AAAAAAAABIQ/wbhud3SrrJc/s1600/P2210483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pQ9zRYA1-f0/UzfdMzH9fQI/AAAAAAAABIQ/wbhud3SrrJc/s1600/P2210483.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temporary solution</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br />What to do? A quick solution was to place two large flat washers on which would allow the pump to sit flat and square, as well as, being able to slide in and out as I adjust the belt for tension.<br />The washers were the ideal size, but a better solution was available with a little cooper stock.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WSwPNB-nTRk/UzfdNDMLPLI/AAAAAAAABII/6JNAS1aOqAo/s1600/P2210485.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WSwPNB-nTRk/UzfdNDMLPLI/AAAAAAAABII/6JNAS1aOqAo/s1600/P2210485.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pump mounted</td></tr></tbody></table>I could of had the pump sent out for machining so that the foot would fit the recessed groove, but instead I had a large flat copper bar made to the dimensions to fit the groove and two holes placed for the holding bolts. This can be seen in place on the photo to the left and placed over the bolts ready for mounting in the top photo.<br />This means now, that any Sherwood pump I buy to replace, now no longer needs machining to fit the mounting bracket.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/yFuwIiKua6I" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/03/raw-water-pump-mounting-modification.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-26541937418997786842014-02-02T23:12:00.000-08:002014-02-02T23:12:09.855-08:00Fischer Panda Generator Bearing ReplacementWith this post, I want to advise readers that to do as I have done will probably void your warranty. However, if you are out of warranty, then this is a possible solution. Normally to replace the end bearing would require the complete removal of the engine from the case. Here's how I did it.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NsP0Ry4TAvs/UuIfKaXnhwI/AAAAAAAABFw/FdG4ANYhW5M/s1600/P1210474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NsP0Ry4TAvs/UuIfKaXnhwI/AAAAAAAABFw/FdG4ANYhW5M/s1600/P1210474.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed job with signs of old bearing overheat.</td></tr></tbody></table>I discovered that my generator end bearing was making a noise and looking at the end plate, discovered some over heating signs. Time to replace the bearing!<br /><br />You can see here to the left, the photo shows overheating at the center of the alternator end plate. The brown color is burnt grease which has escaped the bearing. Actually the photo is the completed job before the sound case was put back . However, the "burnt" sign were still visible.<br /><br />The first thing I did was remove the centre bearing support, on the alternator end plate.<br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Md6eLQNi5Mw/UuIfFnGb3OI/AAAAAAAABFs/1j9VSxGumLY/s1600/P1140440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Md6eLQNi5Mw/UuIfFnGb3OI/AAAAAAAABFs/1j9VSxGumLY/s1600/P1140440.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry bearing</td></tr></tbody></table>This required three screws to be removed and longer screws with the same thread placed into three threaded holes on the end plate. By tightening these longer bolts, they pushed the center plate out. You can see three threaded holes in the picture to the right, and three scuff marks where the three extraction bolts pushed up against the end plate to help drive out the center piece.<br /><br />I modified a puller to fit in the space available, to try to extract the bearing. In the end, so much force was applied, that a foot on one of the legs of the puller broke off.&nbsp;&nbsp; Soooo, time to remove the end plate and put a heavy bearing puller on it. You can see the sealed bearing has lost it's ability to hold it's own grease.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xgX6Bw8rbyA/UuIe_1dONLI/AAAAAAAABFk/hU9Sh-1X4Cg/s1600/P1140446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xgX6Bw8rbyA/UuIe_1dONLI/AAAAAAAABFk/hU9Sh-1X4Cg/s1600/P1140446.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to remove bearing without taking end plate off.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AeIfuOj-5fc/UuIkGQBvSiI/AAAAAAAABGA/xno__s4V7xY/s1600/P1200472.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AeIfuOj-5fc/UuIkGQBvSiI/AAAAAAAABGA/xno__s4V7xY/s1600/P1200472.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine mount cut in half to facilitate removal. Assembly under way</td></tr></tbody></table>However, in removing the end plate, I discovered that the engine mount had to be removed, so that access to the bottom last four nuts, could be accessed. However. the engine mount couldn't be removed unless the engine is raised out of it's casing. Something, because of it's weight, would require me to make a gantry to lift the generator. I elected instead, to modify the end of the casing, (seen in photo to right) which allowed me to cut the engine mount in half, which then allowed me to extract the engine mount in two pieces, which then allowed me to remove the final four nuts to remove the end plate.A crow bar(s) was used to support the generator casing while the work was undertaken. <br /><br />The end plate was removed, and I tried another very heavy duty bearing puller, to no avail.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2S5uHS7FMoc/Uu80I34pP2I/AAAAAAAABHk/f8CeGc5ohbk/s1600/P1180461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2S5uHS7FMoc/Uu80I34pP2I/AAAAAAAABHk/f8CeGc5ohbk/s1600/P1180461.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Protection for windings etc against fine metal dust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Now I was faced with cutting off the bearing with a Dremel. The end plate has a step on the inside surface which fits snugly into the generator casing. The end plate required several screw drivers, wedged in from the side, to get it started; and then I used a crow bar once a gap had been made, to pry it off. Be carefull not to damage either the end plate or generator casing. Use all your levers near the studs that remain on the generator casing, because that is the strongest area.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X7mlJvBwnLQ/Uu8zv7oFWuI/AAAAAAAABHg/pcSaYxjqMEo/s1600/P1200468.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X7mlJvBwnLQ/Uu8zv7oFWuI/AAAAAAAABHg/pcSaYxjqMEo/s1600/P1200468.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bearing installed and generator case end cleaned and repaired</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0kzfqpwbo9Y/UuImnrtPf8I/AAAAAAAABGM/rc_gena2XAA/s1600/P1210476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0kzfqpwbo9Y/UuImnrtPf8I/AAAAAAAABGM/rc_gena2XAA/s1600/P1210476.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut bearing.</td></tr></tbody></table>There are many methods by which you can get&nbsp; a "stuck" bearing off it's shaft, but the most popular method seems to be with a Dremel with a cutting wheel, to cut the bearing off the shaft. Usually you cut through the bearing "almost" through it's thickness, and drive with a hammer , a cold chisel into the cut, to help fracture the bearing, and then it is usually easily removed with a couple of screwdrivers. It helps if you make two cuts with the dremel. The first cut weakens the bearing inner race and the second (at 180 degrees to the first) allowes you to 'fracture' the inner race on the shaft.<br /><br />The outer shell of the bearing and the ball race were very easy to cut off. The inner race was placed next to a shoulder on the shaft, so I couldn't get the dremel saw all the way across. So, I turned it 90 degrees and cut down as far as I dared; starting near the shoulder and working back. It was&nbsp; tedious, but did a slightly better job than using a grinding stone.<br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sncs2eTtD7I/UuItTpOJqGI/AAAAAAAABGc/dtjAzf21b80/s1600/P1170452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sncs2eTtD7I/UuItTpOJqGI/AAAAAAAABGc/dtjAzf21b80/s1600/P1170452.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One jacket end cleaned; nine to go.</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;After the old bearing was removed, the surface was cleaned up with a sanding wheel using the dremel again. The new bearing was driven onto to the shaft using a drift punch against the inner shell, ensuring it went on square, and knocking alternatively, from side to side.<br /><br />Now it was time to clean up the surface of both the end plate and alternator casing, for the new casket. However, I found Fischer Panda had epoxied the ends of the water jacket in the casing; placing first a thick gasket like cut out, inside the water jacket, and then the epoxy to the end of the water jacket.<br /><br />I found one water jacket with nothing in it, but the remains of the epoxy. I proceeded to clean all the water jacket ends and release the epoxy "bungs".<br /><br />Previous to this job, I had removed my sacrificial anode and found two of the gasket cutouts blocking the water hoses that are involved with the cooling. I wondered where they had come from, and Fischer Panda advised they were from the end plate gasket. Rubbish, The gasket was complete! Now I know. I've also found in the past, some of this epoxy in my heat exchanger. No wonder I've had over heating problems in the past.<br /><br />Now in cleaning up this epoxy, I found a number of the cut outs had migrated into the water jacket. Lucky I have a special took for grabbing stuff in tight places.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ar06dZ8GMbE/UuI1yBH8-vI/AAAAAAAABGs/zicbrnUeZd0/s1600/P1210481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ar06dZ8GMbE/UuI1yBH8-vI/AAAAAAAABGs/zicbrnUeZd0/s1600/P1210481.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />To the left, some of the cutouts and epoxy removed. The smaller bits were not saved<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SGNskKGvK6o/UuI3sZ9Bo2I/AAAAAAAABG0/3m7sOSntXU0/s1600/P1190462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SGNskKGvK6o/UuI3sZ9Bo2I/AAAAAAAABG0/3m7sOSntXU0/s1600/P1190462.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building up water jacket with J-B Weld</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp;After cleaning out all the water jackets, I had to build up some areas. The areas of concern were soft aluminum and I used a dremel burr to clean away the soft stuff. Pretty much like a dentist might clean out tooth decay. Because I was not in a position to now order a whole new generator casing, I decided to do a patch job and hope this will last another year, until I can either get the new parts, or a new generator altogether. All the corrosion was at the end of the generator casing, and I suspect the epoxy had some part to play in this. My theory is that when the generator casing was raw water cooled, that the epoxy "traped" sea water and prevented an exchange of clean water, when I did a fresh water flush at the end of each generator run.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FEXDS0pq00U/UuI3vIPadzI/AAAAAAAABG8/FB2C1abLjGk/s1600/P1210475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FEXDS0pq00U/UuI3vIPadzI/AAAAAAAABG8/FB2C1abLjGk/s1600/P1210475.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>I used J-B Weld to build up the "decayed areas", after ensuring the surface for the epoxy was clean and free of dust and "soft" aluminum.<br />&nbsp;J-B Weld takes about 4 hours to set and 24 to really harden. Selley's also has a similar product, but it sets in 3-5 minutes according to the directions. However, after trying it on another item, I found I only had about 1 minute of working time. I preferred the longer working time, although I often waited 20 minutes before applying J-B Weld to the surface.<br /><br />The end of the casing, after the J-B Weld had hardened over night, was leveled with a dremel and fine burr, and checked with a straight edge.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-soBZcX2bzs0/Uu8zwKwgssI/AAAAAAAABHU/aRz58UYuopc/s1600/P1200470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-soBZcX2bzs0/Uu8zwKwgssI/AAAAAAAABHU/aRz58UYuopc/s1600/P1200470.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><br />Finally, after all surfaces were cleaned and checked for "Flatness", I used the supplied gasket and applied a thin layer of RTV high temperature gasket cement to both sides of the gasket. All studs were also given a coat of "antiseize" before the plate and nuts were applied. A gentle tap around the outer surface was required because of the shoulder that recesses into the casing. This can be seen in the inside of the gasket to the right.<br />The nuts were finger tighened, and the RTV allowed an hour to set up. Then final tightening done after the RTV cement had set up.<br />Engine mounts were applied and the capcitors and air intake module replaced. These were removed to facilitate the job and obtain exposure.<br />The small piece of generator casing cut out so that I could cut the engine mount in half was placed back with a small piece of aluminum plate, pop riveted to the fibreglass cutout, and screwed to the remaining sound proof case. <br />The engine and generator case were then filled with fresh water and antifreeze and bleed of all air. This took some time before the correct flow of water was to be had.<br /><br />I feel that if I had of changed my generator casing to fresh water cooling sooner, that maybe this "corrosion" might not have happened. Regardless, while it was sea water cooled, the anode never deteriorated from it's new condition and feel FP's anode let me down. You can read about how I <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/fischer-panda-cooling-system.html">changed the water cooling here</a></span>, so that both the generator casing and the engine, enjoyed fresh water only and heat exchanged through a heat exchanger.<br /><br />Now it's a question of will this repair last a year until I can do a complete alternator casing changeout, and also, do we repair or install new? We have done four hours on the generator, and so far no problems.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/8UZKLITbyJ4" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/02/fischer-panda-generator-bearing.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-27708190175546791432014-01-03T19:27:00.000-08:002014-01-03T19:58:02.455-08:00CentaCorp Damper Plate Replacement on Westerbeke Engine and Hurth Transmission, along with PYI Flexible Coupler Installation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Damper Plates, which are bolted on the flywheel, provide the damping of drive train forces exerted on the transmission by the engine and propeller.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jINR_pc6WgQ/UsdiBiv5S9I/AAAAAAAABD8/ZhX8QL6jHO4/s1600/Damperplate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jINR_pc6WgQ/UsdiBiv5S9I/AAAAAAAABD8/ZhX8QL6jHO4/s400/Damperplate.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>To the left, is a picture of a typical damper plate. It looks like a clutch plate on a vehicle, but does not have the clutch effect, but is instead bolted to the flywheel. The springs that make up this damper plate provide the damping effect; but over time these springs can loosen and even break.<br />This brings me to where I needed to replace my damper plate.<br /><br />What led me to replace the damper plate?<br />Drive train rattle or transmission rattle on a boat can first be noticed with engine RPM between 550rpm (idle) and around 1000rpm. It starts with a very light rattle but over some miles gradually gets worse to where you suspect something is noisy in the transmission. It can be caused by a number of factors of which is a list here;<br /><ul><li>bent prop shaft</li><li>out of balance prop</li><li>worn cutless bearings</li><li>miss alignment of transmission to shaft</li><li>loose coupling bolts</li><li>worn transmission bearings</li><li>loose or broken engine mounts</li></ul>and so it goes on, BUT the most common cause is a worn damper plate. Often, with the spring type, the springs shorten with repeated compression and then rattle inside their mounted positions. Some even break.<br />With my diagnosis of a worn damper plate, I set about getting the parts and equipment together to replace mine. I have a Westerbeke 82B four engine mated to a Hurth Z25 transmission. In the end, I had to go out and buy some new special tools to get the job done. This was done at Rebak Island near Langkawi Island. Not much was available in the haulout yard. Best to do this where the services are close by.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vTJtQ_-UBvI/UsdmcXfT0ZI/AAAAAAAABEI/xLeh8YY23Oo/s1600/PC180416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vTJtQ_-UBvI/UsdmcXfT0ZI/AAAAAAAABEI/xLeh8YY23Oo/s320/PC180416.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />To the right, you can see my transmission with a small heat exchanger on top. The first water hose has been disconnected from it.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Your transmission will require a different method of removal, but here's how I did mine. I removed the boat from the water. I removed the bell housing with the transmission. The damper plate would not come through the bell housing if left in place. Yours may differ.<br /><br /><ul><li>Disconnect all water hoses from heat exchangers and remove heat exchangers</li><li>undo and remove transmission selector casing from end of transmission housing. This facilitates accessing the drive shaft bolts which sit under the transmission and gave me more space</li><li>undo transmission/drive shaft coupling bolts</li><li>undo the grub screws which hold the dripless seal to the shaft. </li><li>move the shaft back as far as possible. I was able to get 5-6 inches of space</li><li>remove bell hosing bolts</li><li>Take the weight of the rear of the engine with a six to one pulley. I used my main sheet block set.</li><li>remove the rear engine mounts which are attached at the transmission</li><li>support the transmission with a five to one pulley. I used my vang block set.</li><li>remove the transmission rearward to disengage, and then up and out</li></ul>&nbsp;And to my surprise here's what I found. I removed the six bolts holding the damper plate to the flywheel and inspected the damper plate.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GzVOmdOdvOg/UsdqVyMhqkI/AAAAAAAABEY/igWJpP3WEM8/s1600/PC200421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GzVOmdOdvOg/UsdqVyMhqkI/AAAAAAAABEY/igWJpP3WEM8/s320/PC200421.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Not a spring type damper plate, but something like the one I'm about to replace with. A damper plate by <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://www.centa.info/?show=products&amp;c=us&amp;nr=35&amp;what=marine">Centa Corp. You can link to it here</a>.</span> My new damper plate was a Centaflex-DS. Centa has many types of couplers and if you choose to use one of their couplers, they will provide the correct one, once you supply details of engine and transmission.<br />However the damper plate did indeed need replaceing. The center rubbers were worn so where I could turn the center hub by hand; and the outer rubbers for the second stage were completely gone on one side. I don't know why this has happened, but the engine has done over 3,000 hrs.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZKTPZJZlWI/UsdtJUiBaDI/AAAAAAAABEg/Qtr3rTFkbgI/s1600/PC200425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZKTPZJZlWI/UsdtJUiBaDI/AAAAAAAABEg/Qtr3rTFkbgI/s320/PC200425.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The new damper plate showing the other side, is shown to the left.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9JNx0SAFg7Y/UsdwCZl_kGI/AAAAAAAABE0/cGVG-eWVsdA/s1600/PC200418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9JNx0SAFg7Y/UsdwCZl_kGI/AAAAAAAABE0/cGVG-eWVsdA/s320/PC200418.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The transmission with Bell Housing just fits through an engine room doorway; now access can be gained to the damper plate at the flywheel.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The new damper plate was placed on the fly wheel and the bolts torqued. The rest was just a case of reversing the order of disassembly.<br />While I had this project in hand, I decided to put in one of <a href="http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=rd_marine&amp;action=shaft-coupling">PYI's flexible shaft couplers.</a>&nbsp; It is important to get the right coupler, and PYI will calculate which one you need after you give them details of your engine horsepower and transmission details.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OoMeoyp5imw/Usd3u9McSaI/AAAAAAAABFQ/15-d-deSK_U/s1600/flexshaftcoupling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OoMeoyp5imw/Usd3u9McSaI/AAAAAAAABFQ/15-d-deSK_U/s1600/flexshaftcoupling.jpg" /></a></div><br />This required the shaft being moved back by about 45mm, but I thought this would not harm my current arrangement with the prop some distance from my skeg. Anyway, here is a picture of the shaft coupler in place.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WJ3tyAeyAxs/Usd1OL5P0LI/AAAAAAAABFE/ub1Y1hXXJFw/s1600/PC230435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WJ3tyAeyAxs/Usd1OL5P0LI/AAAAAAAABFE/ub1Y1hXXJFw/s320/PC230435.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />You can see here, that there is not much room from the coupler to the dripless seal. This coupler was a compromise because of the space available. I would have preferred the one recommended by Centa, but with&nbsp; the dripless seal, there was not enough space.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;Finally, after placeing the boat in the water, we did about 2 hours of motoring. Oh, the quiet! Wonderful!<br />I had to "burp" the dripless seal to remove the air, but everything went smooth. Even the engine seems to idle smoother, and I don't know if I'm imagining things, but I think I've even picked up a little more speed.<br />Time; 3 days to remove the transmission. There were some very tight and awkward bolts to get undone. 2.5 days to replace. Not a job for your average boat handyman. Think about getting help if you want to attempt this.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/xnNqG2q_JAg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2014/01/damper-plate-replacement-with-pyi.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-8137942012304910442013-12-05T00:51:00.000-08:002013-12-05T16:55:55.330-08:00Clamp Tite Tool For Your ProjectsI explained how I use a special tool to seize rope in the making of eyes, in <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/sewn-seized-eye-for-rigging.html"><span style="color: red;">this blog here</span></a>.<br />This tool however is so useful for many other application that I thought it worth putting in a link to their web site and a video here of how it works.<br />I've personally used it, in place of hose clamps; to join two hoses of different sizes together ( place the small hose inside the larger hose and place the clamp wire around the the larger hose to bind the hoses together), and many other uses.<br />So check out their <a href="http://www.clamptitetools.net/"><span style="color: red;">web site here</span></a>.<br />Also <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://clamptool.com/"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span><br />Enjoy the video.<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Zb1U6aaTozI" width="420"></iframe><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/rTE1GU8yO14" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/12/clamp-tite-tool-for-your-projects.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-70117789904945926502013-11-17T22:35:00.001-08:002013-11-27T18:40:57.881-08:00Projects Assessed As I look around my boat, I see a lot of projects that I have written about, and thought it about time to write about what has worked, somewhat worked, or failed, for some of my more "controversial" projects.<br />These are in no particular order and itemized with links to help create some order. If there is a project you have seen here with "svSolace" as one of the tags, and you would like feed back on that project, just comment below and I will add it to the list. Here's a start with 10 items.<br /><br /><br /><ol><li>Davit support written about <span style="color: red;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2012/04/extra-davit-support.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span>&nbsp;</span>Still holding up and supports the davit arms well. Works very good.</li><li>Sanitation lines using polyethylene pipe written <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/holding-tank-modifications-using.html"><span style="color: red;">here.</span></a>&nbsp;Works as expected. Odors from this hose are so far eliminated. I will in the future replace other sanitation hose with the polyethylene as I am able to procure it, in other parts of the world. I'm currently cruising and so not everything is available to me as I go from one country to another.</li><li>The hot modified BBQ written about <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/search/label/bbq"><span style="color: red;">here.</span></a>&nbsp;Its been nearly three years with this mod. The valves on the burner have needed a disassembly from time to time to lubricate and make functional again. Also the BBQ plate needs a clean from time to time. Best done ashore. Great mod and still does great steaks!</li><li>Chain stripper modification can be read <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/chain-stripper-modification.html"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a>.</span> It works. Very pleased with it.</li><li>The <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2010/12/rudder-shaft-seal-upgrade.html"><span style="color: red;">rudder shaft seal upgrade.</span></a>&nbsp;It has been three years now with this mod. It's as water tight as the day I put it in. Works extremely well.</li><li>iNavX, the <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2012/01/inavx-fresh-look-at-affordable.html"><span style="color: red;">affordable chart plotter</span></a>. I've been using this for just seven months now. But it is almost indispensable. I use it for both daily planning, and for navigation along the way. Mostly used in conjunction to my Furuno by providing another chart to compare .</li><li>Using the iPad with iNavX and connecting to the network with an <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2012/01/wifi-onboard-with-imux.html"><span style="color: red;">iMux</span></a>. I installed the iMUX at the same time iNavX came onto my boat. I must say that I have had difficulty getting a connection at times, and sometimes it drops the connection. It is installed in a cupboard, and so I intend to install it outside the cupboard and hopefully this will help with the connection issues. But once the connection is made, everything works, including the AIS data, and autopilot control.</li><li>Our solar panel mounting can be <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/solar-panel-mounting.html"><span style="color: red;">read here</span></a>. The mounting system works well. But we are in an area &nbsp;of the world where there is very little wind. So at the moment we don't put our panels up to charge the batteries as we use to, because we motor everywhere. That should change as we move into another ocean. On the negative side, one of our stanchions holding the railing for the solar panels has been bent and the base mount has had the weld cracked and bent also. We put this down to a very bad sea state in which we were beam on to some very big waves that hit the side of the boat. No damage to the solar panels, but enough force to bend the stainless mount. Consider this if you put two panels on each side. We will get the stainless fixed when we haul out and put some extra gussets in the base.</li><li>A fuel filter monitor can be <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/install-of-fuel-filter-monitor.html"><span style="color: red;">read here</span></a>. Works as stated. Very effective at telling when to change the filter. I would recommend this small device. Also, it's not very expensive.</li><li>An inspection window for a holding tank can be <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/holding-tank-level-inspection-window.html"><span style="color: red;">read about here</span></a>.</span> I put this in because the tank sender unit use to clog up every so often, and I didn't like having to take apart to clean. Now the window works good, but it also need to be unscrewed and clean about once a year. No disassembly required, but still not a pleasant job. I think this <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2012/04/holding-tank-level-monitor.html"><span style="color: red;">holding tank monitor</span></a> is probably the answer.</li></ol><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/ipz1t-qRr5k" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/11/projects-assessed.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-42631125135124319462013-11-12T00:49:00.002-08:002013-11-17T21:01:39.308-08:00Sewn, Seized Eye for Rigging<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16.890625px;"><i><span style="color: #333333;">Sail Delmarva has covered a topic which I had heard about but had never had the chance to try out. I love the idea and actually have had very good success with a similiar idea. You can read about that at the end of Sail Delmarva article here on sewn/seized eye. Besure to click over to </span><a href="http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.co.nz/2013/10/cant-splice-old-line-try-sewn-eye.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Sail Delmarva's site</span></a><span style="color: #333333;"> for other great articles on boats, sailing, and boat products. Without further ado, Drew starts out with a prologue......</span></i></span><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16.890625px;"><br /></span><br /><h2><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Can't Splice Old Line? Try a Sewn Eye.</span></h2><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">Splicing is the gold standard for forming permanent eyes and joining lines; unfortunately used double braid generally lacks the flexibility required for splicing; the cover won't open and the core won't slide. Knots are a standard solution and work in most cases; yes, there is some loss in strength, but lines generally die from chafe and I can't remember having one fail at the knot, other than in testing. But sometimes there simply isn't enough space or a knot will snag.&nbsp;</span><br style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;" /><br style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;" /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">Seizing is traditional and just as reliable as ever. I've seized a dozens of eyes over the years and never had a failure. I helps if you cover them for UV and chafe protection, but if the seizing is double layer like the old days, the outside layer is the UV protection and the inside layer holds the load. But seizings are long and stiff and can hang up, since the tail is neither covered nor tapered. So occasionally I use a hybrid sewn/seized eye. This isn't an idea I dreamed up, it is an old one that I read of many years ago in the</span><i style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">New Glenans Sailing Manual.&nbsp;</i><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">They also speak of&nbsp;</span><a href="http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2011/02/soft-shackles-stropes-and-square.html" style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">stropes</a><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">, the precursor to soft shackles.</span></span><br /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">First I remove about 1 1/2 rope diameters of core. This will allowed the end to be stitched down to create smooth taper. The&nbsp;</span><i style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">New Glenans Sailing Manual&nbsp;</i><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">calls for 3 1/2 to 4 rope diameters of core and I've got 4 1/2 diameters without counting the taper.</span></span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbLFmbNVLgA/Umxq1KeoxYI/AAAAAAAADd8/Sf9HZUY5NqA/s1600/sewn+eye+1+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; float: right; line-height: 16.890625px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NbLFmbNVLgA/Umxq1KeoxYI/AAAAAAAADd8/Sf9HZUY5NqA/s320/sewn+eye+1+low+res.jpg" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding: 4px;" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">How much stitching is enough? Most whipping thread is about 50- to 60-pound test (I use 90-pound Kevlar, just because I have it), and doubled that suggests about 25 stitches on each side to reach 5000 pounds. Sure, it is not loaded in-line, but most of the load (about 65% in testing) is actually carried by line-to-line friction, just as in a seizing. Also remember that due to friction of the eye around the shackle or fitting, the free end is only carrying about 35% of the load. The results is that the stitching is only carrying a working load of about 1000*0.35*(1-0.65)=122 pounds and a line failure load of about 610 pounds (assuming 5000 pounds for aged 1/2" Stayset); not nearly as demanding as you would guess and as usual, the splice is stronger than the line. The stitching is scattered so that some are in every part of the core.</span></span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lupMa9DN-o/Umxq9Mk-HsI/AAAAAAAADeE/Z_KSjSDNtaQ/s1600/sewn+eye+2+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; float: right; line-height: 16.890625px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="191" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lupMa9DN-o/Umxq9Mk-HsI/AAAAAAAADeE/Z_KSjSDNtaQ/s320/sewn+eye+2+low+res.jpg" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding: 4px;" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">After stitching I add 2 seizings for good measure. The throat seizing is the important one, as it keeps the first row of stitches from getting over loaded.</span></span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UMhQ5-3sE5I/UmxrC3ICKxI/AAAAAAAADeM/pS8qwQlgA98/s1600/sewn+eye+3+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; float: right; line-height: 16.890625px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UMhQ5-3sE5I/UmxrC3ICKxI/AAAAAAAADeM/pS8qwQlgA98/s320/sewn+eye+3+low+res.jpg" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding: 4px;" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">Then cover it with something for UV and chafe protection. Heat shrink is fast and nice. tape works too, if you check it annually. Webbing would be very good in some severe applications.</span><br style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;" /><br style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;" /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">The New Glenans Sailing Manula only calls for 3 1/2 to 4 rope diameters and I've got 4 1/2 diameters without counting the taper.</span></span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOm76ioLOCg/UmxrKagzS0I/AAAAAAAADeU/6jsl2me2hFM/s1600/sewn+eye+4+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: white; clear: right; float: right; line-height: 16.890625px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="271" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOm76ioLOCg/UmxrKagzS0I/AAAAAAAADeU/6jsl2me2hFM/s320/sewn+eye+4+low+res.jpg" style="border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding: 4px;" width="320" /></span></a><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;" /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">Just the money saving trick I need today. Just recently I needed a 75-foot sheet for a new bit of rigging and I had a perfect bit of double braid salvaged from a halyard that had suffered chafe in one spot. I particularly enjoyed this lower cost (zero) solution since I am not completely certain of the final rigging. Spending money is bad, but spending money on something you might decide to change is worse.</span></span><br /><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sooo, how strong is this? Click on over <span style="color: #cc0000;"><a href="http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2013/11/testing-of-stitched-and-seized-eyes.html?utm_source=feedburner&amp;utm_medium=feed&amp;utm_campaign=Feed%3A+SailDelmarva+%28Sail+Delmarva%29" target="_blank">here</a> </span>to read about Sail Delmarva testing of the sewn and seized eyes</span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1475658620"></span><span id="goog_1475658621"></span><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vrIVuICHWtw/UoHkgw-4lXI/AAAAAAAABDQ/1NRmAa65YEI/s1600/PB120406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vrIVuICHWtw/UoHkgw-4lXI/AAAAAAAABDQ/1NRmAa65YEI/s320/PB120406.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;Now on Solace, we use the seizing to make an eye with wire and a very clever tool we bought from a boat show in the USA. It was there that we saw demonstrated, many uses for this wonderful device. making an eye was one of them. In fact, we use this on the Genoa Halyard now. I've checked it several times, and with high tension, it shows no sign of breaking or slipping.</span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;">Demonstrated here is just one seizing to make an eye. We usually use four with a thimble to help form the eye. We then wrap the wire in self wrap tape to protect the wire.</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CAG2DgAgbHw/UoHkieCjArI/AAAAAAAABDo/KdU-P2tVNOE/s1600/PB120407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CAG2DgAgbHw/UoHkieCjArI/AAAAAAAABDo/KdU-P2tVNOE/s320/PB120407.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Here to the right you can see the tool ready to cinch down the wire to form the seizing.</span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPJEw3G2RgM/UoHkiOGJHII/AAAAAAAABDk/i6hVuTZ9F-A/s1600/PB120411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPJEw3G2RgM/UoHkiOGJHII/AAAAAAAABDk/i6hVuTZ9F-A/s320/PB120411.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">To the left is the finished product. We usually use four of these to seize for an eye.</span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VetF1UNZ7m0/UoHkifOqGyI/AAAAAAAABDs/XjbstPNSBY0/s1600/PB120412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: black; font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VetF1UNZ7m0/UoHkifOqGyI/AAAAAAAABDs/XjbstPNSBY0/s320/PB120412.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">To the right, the eye is starting to be formed. By the time you get four of those on, the eye will be as &nbsp;strong as any that has been spliced.&nbsp;<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">&nbsp;</span>Be sure to cover the wire with&nbsp;<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">&nbsp;with something for &nbsp;chafe protection.&nbsp;</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;">Heat shrink is fast and nice, tape works too.</span></span><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 16.890625px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 16.890625px;"><br /></span><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/3Dt5jlfDTYE" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/11/sewn-seized-eye-for-rigging.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-85510278823813558142013-11-09T04:25:00.000-08:002013-11-09T04:25:17.282-08:00Water Pump Impeller Replacement on Mercury Outboard<div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>Mark Corke has just recently posted about an outboard water pump service. It is reproduced here on this blog, but I encourage you to go over to his blog site to read the whole story. Mark also has excellent blogs on other boating projects and topics of interest to boaters. Well worth a click to read it at the source.</i></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="color: #333333;">Read it at Mark's </span><a href="http://www.onboardwithmarkcorke.com/on_board/2013/11/outboard-water-pump-service.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">site here</span></a><span style="color: #333333;">.</span></i></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>After Mark gives an introduction to the project at his blog site, the project is outlined below.</i></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The engine that we serviced was a 1996 115 hp Mercury hung on the back of a aluminum Starcraft of a similar vintage and the pictures refer to that but all outboards are very similar and although the pictures may not look exactly like what you have the sequence will be the same.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;I took the pictures as Adam Conte at Portside Marine in Danvers, MA serviced the pump. Working thoroughly and methodically he did the whole project in less than an hour so a competent owner should be able to do the job from start to finish in under two hours.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><br /><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;Here's how to do it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 10px; margin-top: 10px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSLAOmSDOKg/Un4Jb9iI7lI/AAAAAAAAA_U/wKS4Q3XTBn0/s1600/Image1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sSLAOmSDOKg/Un4Jb9iI7lI/AAAAAAAAA_U/wKS4Q3XTBn0/s320/Image1.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The first step is to drain the oil from the gearbox. Unscrew the drain plug with a large screwdriver and the oil will start to run out. Make sure that you place a suitable pan under the motor to catch all the old oil. Unscrew the upper oil level plug too which allows air into the gearbox and ensures that all the oil is evacuated. There are small washers under each screw head which often get stuck in the threads, if they do not come off with the screw you may have to pick them out with a small screwdriver or other tool. Let the oil drain as you move onto the next step.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEaW00yc7Us/Un4LB7cU_6I/AAAAAAAAA_g/TzIolbi4dxk/s1600/image2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEaW00yc7Us/Un4LB7cU_6I/AAAAAAAAA_g/TzIolbi4dxk/s320/image2.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Loosen and remove the nuts that hold the lower unit in place, almost all outboards have four nuts holding this in place. A socket will not fit so use a ring wrench to give good purchase on the nuts which will almost certainly be stiff to undo.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;The lower unit should now theoretically be free but in practice it almost invariably sticks and will need a few taps with a soft mallet. Do not hit the flange cavitation plates at the sides or they are sure to break, a few taps on the after end of the gearbox unit as shown here are acceptable however.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;Once a crack opens up the battle is won and you can insert a broad screwdriver and carefully pry it apart being very careful not to damage the castings of the mating surfaces.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"> </div><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;Lift the unit clear and place it on a suitable bench or jig designed for holding it. They service outboards everyday at Portside marine so had a proper jig on hand which is ideal but you may have to prop it upright in the corner of the garage, it works but is just not as convenient and you will be working at floor level.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q3XqvyQWdYU/Un4MD8RE9PI/AAAAAAAAA_s/Yspe-g8HZpc/s1600/image3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q3XqvyQWdYU/Un4MD8RE9PI/AAAAAAAAA_s/Yspe-g8HZpc/s320/image3.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; text-align: -webkit-auto;">With the unit clear of the top half of the outboard leg we can get to work on the pump proper. The first thing to do is to slide off the seal which sits atop the pump housing.</span>&nbsp;</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kx0K3pxRL7Y/Un4MD8AW-DI/AAAAAAAAA_w/ijim5xFE2p0/s1600/image4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kx0K3pxRL7Y/Un4MD8AW-DI/AAAAAAAAA_w/ijim5xFE2p0/s320/image4.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div></div><div><div style="margin-bottom: 10px; margin-top: 10px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Unscrew the bolts that hold the pump housing in place. We needed an impact wrench as this pump had not been serviced for some time but a ring wrench will work in most cases. Avoid using an open ended wrench, if you round over the bolt heads you will have a bad day for sure.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jM1Q4xe60Gk/Un4ZEmsZvQI/AAAAAAAABAE/U84QBzB4FCs/s1600/image5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jM1Q4xe60Gk/Un4ZEmsZvQI/AAAAAAAABAE/U84QBzB4FCs/s320/image5.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Separate the housing and slide it up the shaft. You can see in this picture that the bottom plate is coming off with it. We need to remove this plate also so if it stays stuck in place you may need to pry it up very carefully.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fvwuOSYBfdw/Un4ZmsID0eI/AAAAAAAABAM/3jPWWkHwp4E/s1600/image6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fvwuOSYBfdw/Un4ZmsID0eI/AAAAAAAABAM/3jPWWkHwp4E/s320/image6.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HiYkA2hKL8/Un4ZmptncdI/AAAAAAAABAQ/-XgjbCnNUFw/s1600/image7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_HiYkA2hKL8/Un4ZmptncdI/AAAAAAAABAQ/-XgjbCnNUFw/s320/image7.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">All in all the pump was in pretty good shape, all the vanes on the impeller are intact. Note the old impeller on the right next to the new one on the left. The vanes should be straight, they develop a set to them after they have been in the pump for several months.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-szgPih4Cjpk/Un4aPkEuc0I/AAAAAAAABAc/sJO8GKPgEAE/s1600/image8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-szgPih4Cjpk/Un4aPkEuc0I/AAAAAAAABAc/sJO8GKPgEAE/s320/image8.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">&nbsp;<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Before reinstalling the pump clean up all the mating surfaces to ensure that there will be no leaks. A sharp razor blade can be used to scrape off the larger bits of old gasket and sealant, then some fine emery paper will get rid of the remainder. Wipe down with some clean rags when you are finished. Everything should be clean and bright.</span></span><br /><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qbL_2hfHwWo/Un4aPyp0-dI/AAAAAAAABAg/FLBIPwJeDXE/s1600/image9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qbL_2hfHwWo/Un4aPyp0-dI/AAAAAAAABAg/FLBIPwJeDXE/s320/image9.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Clean out the interior of the pump housing checking to make sure that there are no score marks or gouges, if there are water may leak past the vanes of the impeller and the pump will not work as efficiently as it should. If there is any doubt as to the condition of the housing then it should be replaced.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HdydagraI_Q/Un4bQzhZUtI/AAAAAAAABA0/xY502KSKHLY/s1600/image10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HdydagraI_Q/Un4bQzhZUtI/AAAAAAAABA0/xY502KSKHLY/s320/image10.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In addition to the impeller all the parts that are required for a routine service; gaskets, O rings and seals are included in the kit.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Bb44bQamOE/Un4bQnvln9I/AAAAAAAABA4/Jq3vu8JS3aU/s1600/image11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6Bb44bQamOE/Un4bQnvln9I/AAAAAAAABA4/Jq3vu8JS3aU/s320/image11.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After cleaning up everything reassembly can start. Smear on a little gasket cement. Adam swears by Permatex Form a Gasket sealant liquid but any other proprietary brand should be fine.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGbwC_b99gc/Un4cWkkZnPI/AAAAAAAABBE/RSw_bxuFUAI/s1600/image12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sGbwC_b99gc/Un4cWkkZnPI/AAAAAAAABBE/RSw_bxuFUAI/s320/image12.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Lower the gasket into position making sure all the holes line up. The gasket is asymmetrical so if something looks wrong you may have it upside down. &nbsp;Next install the new bottom plate (shown) that comes in the pump kit, we used a little more gasket cement before dropping this on.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wOeEthEeEuc/Un4cXFVG7LI/AAAAAAAABBQ/DpFn3fkOYyA/s1600/image13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wOeEthEeEuc/Un4cXFVG7LI/AAAAAAAABBQ/DpFn3fkOYyA/s320/image13.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Install the smaller gasket which seals the joint between the top and bottom sections of the pump housing. This gasket has a neoprene bead built in so no cement is required or should be used.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7hZ7vZBTDs4/Un4dguiQGhI/AAAAAAAABBg/sBV4kX2nRds/s1600/image14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7hZ7vZBTDs4/Un4dguiQGhI/AAAAAAAABBg/sBV4kX2nRds/s320/image14.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Install the new key which sits in the flat on the shaft.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-69AI3CI41HY/Un4dflBxPyI/AAAAAAAABBc/ZRQ1ltE3FIA/s1600/image15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-69AI3CI41HY/Un4dflBxPyI/AAAAAAAABBc/ZRQ1ltE3FIA/s320/image15.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Then slide down the new impeller making sure that the key-way in the hub lines up with the key previously fitted.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L-zPLjm8piU/Un4e6TH-nVI/AAAAAAAABBs/4t2VWkXYJ_g/s1600/image16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L-zPLjm8piU/Un4e6TH-nVI/AAAAAAAABBs/4t2VWkXYJ_g/s320/image16.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A little glycerin or dish washing liquid makes getting the pump cover on that little bit easier and provides some lubrication for the second or two until the water gets into the pump and lubricates the vanes. Do no use oil or silicone which can attack the composition of the impeller and lead to premature failure.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bc0OUIhZHpk/Un4e6tExXoI/AAAAAAAABB4/GWI9X-7I7jA/s1600/image17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bc0OUIhZHpk/Un4e6tExXoI/AAAAAAAABB4/GWI9X-7I7jA/s320/image17.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Slide the housing down and ease it over the vanes as you twist the shaft in a clockwise direction with the other hand. This bends the blades and allows the body of the pump to sit fully down onto the base plate gasket.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIiUvm4VSbk/Un4gavlKWRI/AAAAAAAABCE/pKpl30T_fGM/s1600/image20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIiUvm4VSbk/Un4gavlKWRI/AAAAAAAABCE/pKpl30T_fGM/s320/image20.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Reinstall the bolts and tighten them till they are just snug.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3DVLIpc1x0/Un4gaYp6EzI/AAAAAAAABCI/OVaw8t4dYWk/s1600/image21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3DVLIpc1x0/Un4gaYp6EzI/AAAAAAAABCI/OVaw8t4dYWk/s320/image21.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Slide the new seal down over the shaft until it just rests against the pump housing.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-btIxWhuHXB0/Un4hoqhoBjI/AAAAAAAABCc/_CsrQol6WTY/s1600/image22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-btIxWhuHXB0/Un4hoqhoBjI/AAAAAAAABCc/_CsrQol6WTY/s320/image22.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A setting tool is included in the kit and this is pushed down on top of the seal and does double duty of spreading it out and ensuring that it is not compressed too much. With the seal thus set the compression tool is then removed.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tdxRsUfOH2w/Un4hoHwq0vI/AAAAAAAABCY/cM6bB9PykLo/s1600/image23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tdxRsUfOH2w/Un4hoHwq0vI/AAAAAAAABCY/cM6bB9PykLo/s320/image23.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Smear a little engine spline coupling grease onto the top of the drive shaft.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIdVeeLZJLU/Un4iXneDs4I/AAAAAAAABCk/EvCoRtX1bMI/s1600/image24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIdVeeLZJLU/Un4iXneDs4I/AAAAAAAABCk/EvCoRtX1bMI/s320/image24.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Then a little more on the gear shift coupler which should still be on the gear shift shaft inside the leg, it is a fairly loose push fit so it may have fallen off onto the floor if it is not where it ought to be.</span></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIdU26Hvqk0/Un4iX1ozbYI/AAAAAAAABCo/jylyYCy6Q7Q/s1600/image25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HIdU26Hvqk0/Un4iX1ozbYI/AAAAAAAABCo/jylyYCy6Q7Q/s320/image25.jpg" width="209" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Refill the gearbox with the correct oil. Note that contrary to what you might expect the oil is forced in from the bottom until it comes out of the upper level hole, then both screw plugs can be replaced with a new washer under each. Portside marine service lots of engine so that have a big tub of oil but the average DIY boater is more like to use the oil that comes in squeezable quart bottles but the technique is exactly the same.</span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Vfl91WKlCg/Un4jT0G2aDI/AAAAAAAABC4/CYbU7ZkQt1I/s1600/image31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Vfl91WKlCg/Un4jT0G2aDI/AAAAAAAABC4/CYbU7ZkQt1I/s320/image31.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; text-align: -webkit-auto;">Reinstall the lower unit onto the leg, it helps a great deal to have a helper rotate the engine by hand a little to get the splines to mesh. Then replace the nuts and washers that hold the two parts together, there are torque settings for these but Adam does them up so they are just snug. As long as you don't swing on the wrench it is difficult to over tighten these.</span>&nbsp;</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2xm5FxHqqEo/Un4jT1krsSI/AAAAAAAABC8/xeu3WJcy34c/s1600/image32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2xm5FxHqqEo/Un4jT1krsSI/AAAAAAAABC8/xeu3WJcy34c/s320/image32.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div><div style="background: white;"><span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With everything back together the job is complete. We ran the engine in a barrel to make sure all was well. You can use muffs on the water pick up but the pressure of the hose tends to force the water into the engine, running it in a barrel ensures that the suck from the pump is correct. Note that there should be a healthy spout of water coming out from the telltale in the engine housing.</span></span></div></div></div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/E955zscPSi0" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/11/water-pump-impeller-replacement-on.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-80730719733278137742013-11-03T20:25:00.001-08:002013-11-03T20:25:48.716-08:00Field Overhaul of Sherwood R10870G, R50G, R30G Raw Water Pump<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IFsJ8s9RS50/UncJxx4J5jI/AAAAAAAAA9g/JNKXlSLMaAY/s1600/PB010379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IFsJ8s9RS50/UncJxx4J5jI/AAAAAAAAA9g/JNKXlSLMaAY/s320/PB010379.JPG" width="320" /></a>I had replaced my raw water pump some years ago and I finally managed to get a pump repair kit. I didn't have a fancy workshop with press, but instead had to make do with the tools I had on the boat. Here is how I set about reviving this old raw water pump.<br />First I removed the four bolts holding the cover plate on and extracted the rubber impeller. You can remove the impeller by using &nbsp;needle nose pliers, holding an impeller blade opposite each other. Gently pull, alternating sides till it slides out.<br />Then I moved to the pulley end and undid the two screws holding the bearing and seal body to the main body.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O4DV6Q8IJPc/UncIEsjne4I/AAAAAAAAA9U/6sVbTK5e8vk/s1600/PB010378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O4DV6Q8IJPc/UncIEsjne4I/AAAAAAAAA9U/6sVbTK5e8vk/s320/PB010378.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once the bearing body and shaft has been removed, remove the seal assembly. This will necessitate removing a small circlip on the shaft. Now remove the two woodruff keys. I use a pair of side cutters and gently grip at the base of the woodruff key and lever up. Be careful not to damage the shaft.<br />There is a woodruff key for the pulley and one for the impeller.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Ftn-vk1sao/UncObjztJ3I/AAAAAAAAA94/AdOYx6owuMU/s1600/PB010381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Ftn-vk1sao/UncObjztJ3I/AAAAAAAAA94/AdOYx6owuMU/s320/PB010381.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ljiFmG5RGW8/UncMZJgoOmI/AAAAAAAAA9s/pVjspTwXHOw/s1600/PB010382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ljiFmG5RGW8/UncMZJgoOmI/AAAAAAAAA9s/pVjspTwXHOw/s320/PB010382.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Remove the large circlip which sits in front of the bearing and drive out from the opposite end. Be sure to protect the end of the shaft from damage by using a sacrificial block of wood. The shaft is now free of the bearing and seal body.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W2m1vEVrVdA/UncPs0i_VKI/AAAAAAAAA-E/clRhaAbJBG4/s1600/PB010384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W2m1vEVrVdA/UncPs0i_VKI/AAAAAAAAA-E/clRhaAbJBG4/s320/PB010384.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Now, after removing a small circlip in front of the bearing, I used a bearing/pulley puller to pull the bearing off the shaft.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1DurMmmKp4M/UncQaRIDK0I/AAAAAAAAA-M/DysQbGkN6z4/s1600/PB010385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1DurMmmKp4M/UncQaRIDK0I/AAAAAAAAA-M/DysQbGkN6z4/s320/PB010385.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puller with added socket on end of shaft</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br />As the bearing came down the shaft, I used a small socket between the end of the shaft and the puller, to facilitate the last little bit to get the bearing off. You can see that in the picture to the right.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeNsZ1gSFao/UncRXcKkF2I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/Wm2tvydrwHc/s1600/PB010386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeNsZ1gSFao/UncRXcKkF2I/AAAAAAAAA-Y/Wm2tvydrwHc/s320/PB010386.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Now, replacing the seal surface is as simple as pulling out the old one with ones fingers and placing in the new one with a gentle push with the fingers. White side of seal (running surface) goes opposite the bearing and towards the sprung seal assembly.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KfogveWhzJc/UncTBvUKUHI/AAAAAAAAA-k/zxke75iOLvc/s1600/PB010387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KfogveWhzJc/UncTBvUKUHI/AAAAAAAAA-k/zxke75iOLvc/s320/PB010387.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>In getting ready to reassemble, I cleaned off the matching surfaces of old gasket and proceeded to make a new one. For some reason my kit did not include this gasket. You can see the impression of the cut out to be, made in the gasket paper to the left of the pump body. Careful use of scissors and a hole punch made this easy work.<br />Now for assembly.....<br />First, I used a fine wet and dry sand paper to rub off all rust, nicks and burrs that were on the shaft.<br />With the one circlip on the other side of the bearing which was not removed off the shaft, I used this as the guide to which I would drive the new bearing on the shaft to. I used a small spark plug socket which was just the right size to slide over the shaft and seat against the inner race of the bearing. Using gentle taps with a hammer, I drove the bearing onto the shaft. It is important at the start of this, to make sure it is on square to the shaft as you make the first taps with the hammer. I finished with a piece of stainless tubing I had, to drive the bearing up to the circlip and then placed a new circlip on the other side of the bearing which keeps the location of the bearing on the shaft at the exact point needed. At all times, the force must only be applied to the inner race of the bearing. If you drive the bearing on using the outer race of the bearing, damage can be done to the bearing before it is even put to use.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBF7lJP00Hc/UncXUAaaAtI/AAAAAAAAA-w/aHOhtYQ3eBg/s1600/PB010388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBF7lJP00Hc/UncXUAaaAtI/AAAAAAAAA-w/aHOhtYQ3eBg/s320/PB010388.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Now place the shaft and bearing assembly through the bearing body and drive the assembly into the body by now driving on the outer ball bearing race. Small taps with a sacrificial block of wood and hammer will drive the assembly in till such time as you can now place the large retaining circlip which keeps the bearing/shaft assembly inside the bearing body.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PwPwslpXL4A/UncZLVZcoWI/AAAAAAAAA-8/hkSljYX24AQ/s1600/PB010389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PwPwslpXL4A/UncZLVZcoWI/AAAAAAAAA-8/hkSljYX24AQ/s320/PB010389.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Finally for the shaft, place on the spring loaded seal arrangement, compress the spring and place a new circlip to retain the assembly against the running surface. This can be seen assembled in the photo to the right.<br />With the gasket between the interfaces, present the bearing body to &nbsp;the pump body and secure with the two threaded bolts. Mine were somewhat rusty, so I took the opportunity to put two new ones in with anti seize used on the threads.<br />Replace the two woodruff keys.<br />I didn't replace the cam inside the pump body: my kit had the wrong one and the old one was still OK. Also, I didn't replace the carbon bearing in the end of the cover plate. That was also OK, and while the carbon ones are easy to remove by breaking out from the recess, that can also be the demise of the new one when replacing; if one is not careful. These should be a finger push fit when done right, but heavy hands can also break these carbon bearings. Mine was OK, so I decided best to leave alone. After all, I'm not in a location where spares are easy to come by.<br />I leave the impeller out of the pump body until I'm ready to put it into service. I've seen too many pumps come off the shelf with impellers with distorted blades, just because they have been sitting in one spot inside the pump for many years.<br />The end cover was placed on the pump and the four retaining bolts finger tightened. Now it is wrapped in plastic and ready for the next time I have to replace the raw water pump due to leaking.<br />Hope that helps with your project.<br />Kit about $150 verses new at about $400. Time, about four hours.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/kjy7rgfcw38" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/11/field-overhaul-of-sherwood-r10870g-r50g.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-36725135441330062792013-11-03T01:40:00.000-07:002013-11-03T04:50:55.251-08:00Westerbeke 82B four Water Pump Replacement<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tttmKnscuE4/UnYB7RoUxOI/AAAAAAAAA84/bOKPLLnQ8UM/s1600/PA280374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tttmKnscuE4/UnYB7RoUxOI/AAAAAAAAA84/bOKPLLnQ8UM/s320/PA280374.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rust at bottom of water pump</td></tr></tbody></table>I first noticed my water reservoir loosing water after some hours of motoring.<br />A quick check of the engine fresh water pump gave me the signs that a leak was coming from that pump. The first signs that one may notice is rust underneath the water pump, which is an indicator of water leaking past the seal, and if left for long, the bearing may fail which usually gives it's warning with noise. Time to replace the fresh water pump.<br />The first task is to remove the four belts; two for the fridge compressor and two for the alternator. Next remove the four bolts holding the four belt pulley on. A tap with a wooden block and hammer in a forward direction, should remove most pulleys off the water pump. With the pulley removed, you can now get at the pump bolts.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vnu6o10zidA/UnYB6JF-QOI/AAAAAAAAA8w/Xht4FlLgGjU/s1600/PA280373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vnu6o10zidA/UnYB6JF-QOI/AAAAAAAAA8w/Xht4FlLgGjU/s320/PA280373.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New water pump and gasket</td></tr></tbody></table>The easiest part of the job was locating my new water pump which came with a new gasket.<br />Undo all the pumps bolts and carefully pry the pump away from the body.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqlAA1JIUBU/UnYB7FYaxMI/AAAAAAAAA88/YSA5fyu3fmQ/s1600/PA280375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqlAA1JIUBU/UnYB7FYaxMI/AAAAAAAAA88/YSA5fyu3fmQ/s320/PA280375.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Once removed, clean up the face of the water pump housing by removing all the old gasket.<br />Place the new gasket on and reverse the disassembly order. I used anti seize compound on all the bolts threads. Helps for the next time it has to be removed.<br />Finally, tension the belts and you should be good for another 3000 hrs or so with the water pump. Also, may be a good time to replace your belts if looking worn.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/F0qi32clD_E" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/11/westerbeke-82b-four-water-pump.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-12679928041659962572013-10-20T21:21:00.003-07:002013-10-20T21:21:40.675-07:00A Comfortable Boat Shoe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVD2vZNktm4/UmSpAivTB8I/AAAAAAAAA8U/9sSw_9ALgx8/s1600/82_nufoot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVD2vZNktm4/UmSpAivTB8I/AAAAAAAAA8U/9sSw_9ALgx8/s1600/82_nufoot.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">Neither a sock or a shoe, these look like they might make a comfortable boat shoe that boasts of being skid resistant. Also looks like I could use them around the house.&nbsp;</span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">Nufoot says....</span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">"Nufoot is reinventing indoor footwear, where comfort and style coexist to make for happier feet! Made with the latest sports technology, Nufoot is water-resistant, germ-proof, anti-microbial and super comfortable as the skid-resistant soles gives you a good grip on any indoor surface. No matter where you are - in your home, in the office, in the gym, in the library, on an airplane of cruise ship."</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 22px;">Check them out.</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 22px;">&nbsp;Nufoot, Diablo, Calif., (925) 743-9831.&nbsp;</span><a href="http://www.nufoot.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px none; color: #666666; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 22px; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; outline-width: 0px; padding: 0px;" target="_blank">www.nufoot.com</a><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/7Au0O2rzS20" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/10/a-comfortable-boat-shoe.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-5894575523722693062013-09-29T03:14:00.001-07:002013-09-29T03:14:58.952-07:00Improved Bungee's<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NKe5lCcTwlc/Ukf6E82FKFI/AAAAAAAAA74/rJRG_ucah6I/s1600/KBB_Feature_04_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NKe5lCcTwlc/Ukf6E82FKFI/AAAAAAAAA74/rJRG_ucah6I/s320/KBB_Feature_04_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 22px;">Like duct tape, bungee cords have been making life easier for ages, but the time seemed right to improve on the original design.The &nbsp;company says this...</span><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">"With carabiner clips instead of open hooks at each end, it not only attaches to your anchor points, it locks there. Instead of elastic that loses its stretch over time, the KnotBone Bungee has a durable, high quality cord that threads through each end, adjusts from 48" to 10" in the #9 size and from 28" to 6" in the #5 size. Once you have it adjusted to the right length, secure it in place with a simple wrap-and-lock motion. They have even added small self-clipping plastic caps to the cord ends to keep them in place once you've got your load secured. No more pulling, stretching, and re-hooking to get the tension you want - job after individual job, the KnotBone Bungee stays right where you attach it, pulls securely to the exact length you need, and locks there."</span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 22px;">&nbsp;Retail price is $9.99. Nite Ize Inc., Boulder, Colo., (800) 678-6483.&nbsp;</span><a href="http://www.niteize.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px none; color: #666666; line-height: 22px; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; outline-width: 0px; padding: 0px;" target="_blank">www.niteize.com</a></span><br /><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Any body with experience with with this product, please let us know within the comments. I would love to get some and report on them, but getting this stuff to me while cruising can present some problems.</span><br /><br /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/OToBcGP2kAg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/09/improved-bungees.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-17818142429683771322013-08-12T02:10:00.000-07:002013-08-12T02:10:00.397-07:00Desalinator in a Bottle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uGoehUsxlrM/UgijSivzVII/AAAAAAAAA6k/VE_MLxfRAwM/s1600/Puri-Sea-Water-Desalinating-Bottle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uGoehUsxlrM/UgijSivzVII/AAAAAAAAA6k/VE_MLxfRAwM/s320/Puri-Sea-Water-Desalinating-Bottle.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>News Item.<br />Here's something that may save lives. While not yet &nbsp;released for purchase, Puri is developing this amazing product that may eventually end up in every ditch bag, or even life raft.<br />You can read about it <a href="http://www.greenprophet.com/2013/08/puri-water-bottle-makes-potable-drinking-water-at-sea/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">here</span></a><br />Simply, put some salt water into the bottle, pump, and the water is pumped into a separate chamber for drinking, leaving the brine water behind to be discarded.<br />I can't wait to see it available, and the reviews that are sure to come.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/HlB5JdIs8zk" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/08/desalinator-in-bottle.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-84217888580652224252013-08-06T19:51:00.002-07:002013-08-06T19:51:36.779-07:00WD40 as sticky residue remover.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NY7vzXHTIiY/UgGu2JE9DGI/AAAAAAAAA6E/rSPiSwqBFSk/s1600/P7160359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NY7vzXHTIiY/UgGu2JE9DGI/AAAAAAAAA6E/rSPiSwqBFSk/s320/P7160359.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Our companion way stairs are wooden with a polyurethane coating and some non skid tape on to prevent the "sliding foot".<br />Last time I replaced the non skid tape, I removed all the tape by sanding and re polyurethane-ing the steps.<br />This time, I replaced without having to sand the remaining sticky surface off.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W6emIkDOowA/UgGu8DztO1I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/bQIamg9agjU/s1600/P7160360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W6emIkDOowA/UgGu8DztO1I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/bQIamg9agjU/s320/P7160360.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I removed the worn out strips of non skid tape and was left a sticky residue on the polyurethane from the tape. I first reached for De-Solv-It which has been good in the past, removing sticky residue from various tapes etc. This time around, it would not budge the sticky residue. So I reached for the WD40 which I have used to remove sticky stuff off my Gelcoat deck. Once again, WD40 removed that sticky residue without any hard rubbing.<br />So far, I can say it is good for removing sticky residue on both Gelcoat and polyurethane surfaces. No detrimental effects. Give it a try sometime and if you try a new surface, please report back here in comments, to tell us as to it's success.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4p8dqpjA7L8/UgGu6Qq_nlI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/anFjrgimX3k/s1600/P7160363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4p8dqpjA7L8/UgGu6Qq_nlI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/anFjrgimX3k/s320/P7160363.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tape for steps</td></tr></tbody></table>The tape for us didn't come in the width we needed so we used an old pair of scissors to cut the tape to the correct width. The grit will damage a good pair of scissors!<br />We use a clear tape so the urethane shows through. I think it looks nicer than the black tapes sometimes available.<br /><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/UkMlP_M4zEg" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/08/wd40-as-sticky-residue-remover.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-31862731569369044092013-07-05T21:26:00.000-07:002013-07-05T21:26:01.126-07:00Spectra Watermakers Clark Pump Check Valve Cleaning<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2mY50bFRdo/UdeS39bBerI/AAAAAAAAA5A/OGB9kKHUyTo/s1600/P6280347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P2mY50bFRdo/UdeS39bBerI/AAAAAAAAA5A/OGB9kKHUyTo/s320/P6280347.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>&nbsp;I was having issues with my water maker, and <a href="http://www.spectrawatermakers.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Spectra Watermakers</span></a> suggested I check and clean the check valves in the clark pump. The thought was that there may be something caught behind one of the check valves. There are four check valves; two on each side under the cylinders where they attach to the center body.<br />Here's how I did it.<br />My watermaker membrane housing and clark pump was located under the boards of the aft bed. To remove the clark pump, I closed the sea water intake and removed the two low pressure hoses and the two high pressure hoses. Then removed the four screws holding the mounting plate and then the clark pump can be removed.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qokkp72kBWY/UdeS4_HYBEI/AAAAAAAAA5U/G4RSBgfd-iw/s1600/P6280348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qokkp72kBWY/UdeS4_HYBEI/AAAAAAAAA5U/G4RSBgfd-iw/s320/P6280348.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To the right is the clark pump removed and ready for disassembly. I first removed the the base mounting plate held by four bolts. That helps with with allen key use of the allen head bolts at each cylinder end where it joins the main body in the center.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suOW-eQmop4/UdeS5qZxJrI/AAAAAAAAA5k/J3X3PEfaEPg/s1600/P6280350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-suOW-eQmop4/UdeS5qZxJrI/AAAAAAAAA5k/J3X3PEfaEPg/s320/P6280350.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Undo the four allen head bolts at one end and carefully rock the cylinder to remove from the center body. There are three O ring seals; two around the check valves and one around the large round locating piece that has the piston rod going through the centre. The piston rode pushes against the white plastic looking piston in the cylinder.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-knqP1Z9gOOw/UdeS5ehXadI/AAAAAAAAA5g/ekTtygXJXr0/s1600/P6280351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-knqP1Z9gOOw/UdeS5ehXadI/AAAAAAAAA5g/ekTtygXJXr0/s320/P6280351.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Using a Q tip cleaner, insert to clean the interface of the top check valve against the seat of the valve.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nHMMG5oclwA/UdeS6eKNDJI/AAAAAAAAA5s/jb2C96hkSAo/s1600/P6280352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nHMMG5oclwA/UdeS6eKNDJI/AAAAAAAAA5s/jb2C96hkSAo/s320/P6280352.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The lower check valve can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. It's the one that has a cross piece. There are washers and springs which full apart, but it is easily assembled and placed back. Clean with a Q tip as well before re inserting.<br />Make sure all O rings are in place before presenting the cylinder up and reapplying the four allen head bolts. Repeat for the other side.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-McS_V3Wtpuo/UdeS4aNyllI/AAAAAAAAA5M/G3o91et-UxU/s1600/P1100230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-McS_V3Wtpuo/UdeS4aNyllI/AAAAAAAAA5M/G3o91et-UxU/s320/P1100230.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>In my case, I found no debris around the check valves, but found instead the piston rod that drives the pistons to be badly corroded. You can see the surface eaten away on the picture to the right. This has seals that runs on the surface of that piston rod, and I suspect that is where my problem lays. &nbsp;The unit has been returned to Spectra Watermakers in the USA<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/UkDrQF1MZP4" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/07/spectra-watermakers-clark-pump-check.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-61763155934816240182013-06-10T01:07:00.000-07:002013-06-10T01:07:39.337-07:00 Installing Port VisorsWe have always wanted to have some rain protection over two port holes on our deck/saloon area. One was over the gallery; very important ventilation required while cooking. And one in our shower room; mainly to let the steam out, but not let the rain in.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F_EuroQSKO8/UbWDizymHGI/AAAAAAAAA3s/LhVIJnYiyF8/s1600/P6100344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F_EuroQSKO8/UbWDizymHGI/AAAAAAAAA3s/LhVIJnYiyF8/s320/P6100344.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Product as it arrives.</td></tr></tbody></table>We ordered our port visors through <a href="http://www.seaworthygoods.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">Seaworthy Goods</span></a>. Check them out.<br />We made sure we had the correct size and delivery was quick. The package includes the port visor with a red peel away sticky tape. A small scotch bright. And the instructions.<br />Installation was easy; about 3 minutes.<br />Scotch bright the area where visor is going to stick. Clean with alcohol. Pull off the protective red tape and apply. Press hard to ensure good contact.<br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-i_CDjlcSU/UbWDiOVVW1I/AAAAAAAAA3k/lLKWSVTDbgY/s1600/P6100345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-i_CDjlcSU/UbWDiOVVW1I/AAAAAAAAA3k/lLKWSVTDbgY/s320/P6100345.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to start</td></tr></tbody></table>The visors are made from lexan XL10 with UV resistance. Just wash with fresh water to clean.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3I6xn3wzGR0/UbWDimj0rII/AAAAAAAAA3w/FOriFH7Rvvs/s1600/P6100346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3I6xn3wzGR0/UbWDimj0rII/AAAAAAAAA3w/FOriFH7Rvvs/s320/P6100346.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished installation</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/ezuocyyp6fU" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/06/installing-port-visors.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-50002118579659964652013-05-03T15:02:00.000-07:002013-05-03T15:02:50.027-07:00Shower Mixers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lp7h17ViMPU/UYNpMcpS-fI/AAAAAAAAA18/5_oKm8wFAEs/s1600/P3290279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lp7h17ViMPU/UYNpMcpS-fI/AAAAAAAAA18/5_oKm8wFAEs/s320/P3290279.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>&nbsp;Our shower taps (hot and cold) created our mixer for our shower. However, over time they&nbsp;became&nbsp;difficult to turn on and off. That's them in the picture to the left.<br />&nbsp;In deciding what to replace with, I decided on a lever mixer, but wasn't sure about that because of the limited space, and felt it was going to&nbsp;impinge&nbsp;upon my washing machine. &nbsp;Conventional household mixers, I thought were just a bit to big. Then I came across these tiny mixers in my chandler store in NZ. Instantly, I knew they would do the job.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dYVGbYZI3hQ/UYNpMz48rNI/AAAAAAAAA2M/GRTV5mxCA9o/s1600/P3290280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dYVGbYZI3hQ/UYNpMz48rNI/AAAAAAAAA2M/GRTV5mxCA9o/s320/P3290280.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To the right, here's what that lever mixer looked like fitted.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x-diMMFVFPk/UYNpNDJaieI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/abLtipBQQJQ/s1600/P3290281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x-diMMFVFPk/UYNpNDJaieI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/abLtipBQQJQ/s320/P3290281.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>And to the left, the tiny mixer. So much easier to turn on and off and get the temperature right for our shower. I don't know where else you could get these; try your local chandler or plumber supplies.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/u5oGa4DM488" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com1http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/05/shower-mixers.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-34328601351137833932013-04-26T02:32:00.000-07:002013-04-26T02:32:34.885-07:00Holding Tank Modifications using Polyethylene PipeMore work to my holding tanks! I alluded to some of the benefits of using polyethylene hose for&nbsp;sanitation&nbsp;hose and you <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/replaceing-sanitation-hose.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">can read about it here</span></a>.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6KUgNqlwg7U/UXo7-AGDLBI/AAAAAAAAA04/XOkJuaAAJns/s1600/P4160314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6KUgNqlwg7U/UXo7-AGDLBI/AAAAAAAAA04/XOkJuaAAJns/s320/P4160314.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>&nbsp;The first thing I did was remove the input hose and fitting, to the holding tank which was located on the side of the tank. Last year, I had relocated the tank air vent to the top and did a temporary block off, of the old side air vent. You can <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/new-holding-tank-vent-outlet.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">read about that here</span></a>. That was located just above and to the side of this fitting seen to the left. I used a Dremel and hacksaw to make the cut of the bronze fitting.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj5FUGrOkgA/UXo8AK9aFMI/AAAAAAAAA1M/VE1QjpJkqSw/s1600/P4170319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zj5FUGrOkgA/UXo8AK9aFMI/AAAAAAAAA1M/VE1QjpJkqSw/s320/P4170319.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>&nbsp;I&nbsp;prepped&nbsp;the area to get ready to epoxy glue on a cover over the old fittings. Old paint removed and each opening stuffed with toilet paper so that the glue would not full into the tank. The glue is made from two pot epoxy (slow set) with silica powder/binder added until you get the&nbsp;consistency&nbsp;of thick peanut butter.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xmU97qYmeCU/UXo8AIyxDtI/AAAAAAAAA1I/TgWUJETsFOA/s1600/P4170320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xmU97qYmeCU/UXo8AIyxDtI/AAAAAAAAA1I/TgWUJETsFOA/s320/P4170320.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>&nbsp;To the left is the finished fibreglass plate epoxied to the tank. This year I decided to use some off cuts of fibreglass which are cut out when the boats are removed from the molds. Typically, they are window cutouts and hatch cutouts which are then discarded. You local fibreglass boat builder will have plenty of these to give away.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGZ5IHZGQqI/UXo7-tq599I/AAAAAAAAA08/LDBDrLvn_Ws/s1600/P4170318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MGZ5IHZGQqI/UXo7-tq599I/AAAAAAAAA08/LDBDrLvn_Ws/s320/P4170318.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />In&nbsp;preparation&nbsp;for the top fitting, I found the best location; drilled my hole for the polyethylene through hole; and then sanded the area for gluing the fibreglass plate to the tank.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yk0vDzR7QTQ/UXo8CEz8TpI/AAAAAAAAA1g/R1raBiuZJP8/s1600/P4170322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yk0vDzR7QTQ/UXo8CEz8TpI/AAAAAAAAA1g/R1raBiuZJP8/s320/P4170322.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To the left is the finished fitting. You might notice that the black hose it is attached to is polyethylene pipe.<br />Polyethylene pipe is NOT as flexible as&nbsp;sanitation&nbsp;hose, so you may have to use elbows etc to get it to go where you want to. You can also use boiling water to get a little more curve from the pipe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HHaUgMq6VFc/UXo8A5-rrdI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/UnpxsKCyKdU/s1600/P4170321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HHaUgMq6VFc/UXo8A5-rrdI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/UnpxsKCyKdU/s320/P4170321.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>To the right you can see the 25mm polyethylene pipe running down and through the wall where it goes to the macerator pump. The bigger 38mm (inch and a half) pipe runs from the bottom of the tank to the "Y" valve and then the polyethylene pipe continues on to the pump out pump. A&nbsp;diaphragm&nbsp;pump with joker valves each end.<br />Now the outflow is of poor design and should never come from the bottom of the tank, other than a drop down pipe inside the tank, from the top. This is due to the fact that&nbsp;effluent&nbsp;is always in the outflow pipe&nbsp;which&nbsp;leads to&nbsp;permeation&nbsp; I'm using polyethylene pipe from the bottom of the tank and feel confident, there will be no&nbsp;permeation.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2iMF5p_L8E/UXo8DCCZ0gI/AAAAAAAAA1o/dN9YVgprmcA/s1600/P4170325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u2iMF5p_L8E/UXo8DCCZ0gI/AAAAAAAAA1o/dN9YVgprmcA/s320/P4170325.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />Above you can see I used barrel nuts. This makes presenting pipes up to the fittings real easy. In this case I didn't need to use them, but I had bought them with me, so decided to use them.<br />To the left you can see the macerator pump with barrel nut fittings at both the inlet and outlet. The outlet has a PVC type which was fitted some time ago. On the other side of the barrel nut, I have a joker valve inside the other half of the PVC barrel nut and then a valve. This is because it is pumping up hill and one day I may need to service.<br />I have now added a polyethylene barrel nut at the inlet side. Also, but not shown, is a threaded pipe (at the inlet side before the barrel nut), which goes to a valve, before joining up with the 38mm pipe from the toilet bowel. IF the pump needs&nbsp;servicing, I just<br />turn off the valves at either side of the pump; undo the barrel nuts (usually&nbsp;by hand); disconnect power; and pull the pump out. I have a few "boat towels" to mop up the small amount of fluid that will spill.<br />And let me say, the area smells so much better already. I might even replace the deck pump out hose ( which goes to the "Y" valve. But my wife says, that is just looking for work. Maybe if I get bored sailing?<br />Listening to "Just Waiting on a Friend" by the Rolling Stones.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/kYbiP-on4uM" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/holding-tank-modifications-using.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-90727854293424977982013-04-25T01:58:00.000-07:002013-04-25T01:58:05.733-07:00Small Clothes Drying.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XfSGSYkkgXQ/UXjkGoV1GuI/AAAAAAAAA0g/J6UmGSjgAV4/s1600/P4250336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XfSGSYkkgXQ/UXjkGoV1GuI/AAAAAAAAA0g/J6UmGSjgAV4/s320/P4250336.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Some years ago, we were in the Pacific islands and my wife bought at a market, a round plastic hanger with multiple clothes pegs hanging off it. She used this to hang her&nbsp;underwear&nbsp;and socks from, both outside and inside the boat. Well, eventually the plastic thing broke and she lamented the loss of her "never, never holder". She says, "underwear&nbsp;should never be seen hanging off life lines or even a clothes line".<br />So I set about one evening to duplicate what she had before. I used two garden irrigation "T's and some reinforced hose to make the basic shape. I drilled through the plastic hose and placed short sections of about 3mm line through; held from slipping through, with just an overhand knot on top. Next I drilled the pegs and did a&nbsp;similar&nbsp;knot to hold the pegs. Finally I made a bridle in the middle cross piece and placed a cheap small carabiner at the&nbsp;center&nbsp;of the bridle by which to hang the contraption.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tCFM29NX6xg/UXjkG9v9hdI/AAAAAAAAA0s/JGLuJZQTdYw/s1600/P4250337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tCFM29NX6xg/UXjkG9v9hdI/AAAAAAAAA0s/JGLuJZQTdYw/s320/P4250337.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br />About 1 hour to make and less than $10<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/EMXhrSNRcEk" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/small-clothes-drying.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-497171217098538004.post-20166169498803115762013-04-11T03:31:00.000-07:002013-04-11T03:36:36.639-07:00Fischer Panda Cooling System ModificationFischer Panda (FP) Generators are now cooled by fresh water and the sea water only passes through the heat exchanger and then out via the exhaust hose. BUT it didn't use to be that way. My &nbsp;FP is around a 2001 model, 5.5KVA. In my FP the cooling is done with sea water, which first goes around the generator casing and then to the heat exchanger, before exiting via the usual exhaust method. The fresh water gets circulated around the engine and through the heat exchanger to get cooled from the seawater that has picked up a little heat from the generator casing.<br />You can see the heat exchanger situated underneath the generator in the picture below. I consider that poor design and changed my heat exchanger location which you can read <span style="color: red;"><a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2011/07/heat-exchangers-somethings-to-consider.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">about here</span></a>&nbsp;</span>and <a href="http://boatprojects.blogspot.com.au/2011/12/heat-exchanger-modification.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">also here</span></a><br />To change my cooling system, I figured it was only a case of changing a few hoses over and I could have both my generator casing AND my engine cooled by fresh water and use the raw water only for cooling through the heat exchanger. Read below how I did it...<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_8y8FAyNu6c/UWZ-vU1s85I/AAAAAAAAAz4/_jJbyzpCON4/s1600/Fischer+Panda+cooling.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="441" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_8y8FAyNu6c/UWZ-vU1s85I/AAAAAAAAAz4/_jJbyzpCON4/s640/Fischer+Panda+cooling.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FP blurb about their water cooling.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsDEtkq54BE/UWZ-vH_ftEI/AAAAAAAAAz0/ZRgk01AswD0/s1600/P4070300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsDEtkq54BE/UWZ-vH_ftEI/AAAAAAAAAz0/ZRgk01AswD0/s320/P4070300.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>First I removed the freshwater hose that went from the engine to the heat exchanger. You can see the fresh water hose coming from the pump (above generator belt) to a metal tube which then does a small bend and goes down and sits just behind the Johnson raw water pump. The removed hose is sitting in front of the pulley.<br />Next I removed the hose from the raw water pump which goes straight down to a pipe that dives under the motor to the generator casing.<br />The idea is to swap these two over. Fresh water will now go to the generator casing, and raw water to the heat exchanger.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cCmk_t7v1Ps/UWZ-vy3VFoI/AAAAAAAAA0M/-W3E_GgmqYY/s1600/P4070302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cCmk_t7v1Ps/UWZ-vy3VFoI/AAAAAAAAA0M/-W3E_GgmqYY/s320/P4070302.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>In the picture to the right, you will now notice, the pipe that sat under the raw water pump has been moved to the right a little and hooked up with the fresh water pipe coming down from the fresh water pump. (pump not seen). I had to cut about two inches (50mm) off the pipe so that a hose will connect.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TKoJSergne4/UWZ-u_41xQI/AAAAAAAAAzs/oSLCB1O6REU/s1600/P4070301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TKoJSergne4/UWZ-u_41xQI/AAAAAAAAAzs/oSLCB1O6REU/s320/P4070301.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>I had this 20mm pipe (in picture to the left) made for this change over.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rxNlRmlFr0/UWZ-wUzeRXI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/yDEgbeiBEG8/s1600/P4070303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rxNlRmlFr0/UWZ-wUzeRXI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/yDEgbeiBEG8/s320/P4070303.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>In the picture to the right, you can just make out the curved pipe as it is now attached to the raw water pump and the pipe continues to the heat exchanger underneath the pulley.<br />Now, at the heat exchanger. the pipe that use to be fresh water is now raw water and should be connected to the raw water input at the heat exchanger.... AND the raw water input hose at the heat exchanger is now fresh water. Just swap the two over.<br />So, lets follow the path of the fresh water first.<br />From the fresh water pump, it goes down beside the crank pulley and dives under the motor to the generator casing. From the generator casing, the fresh water goes to the heat exchanger to be cooled and then returned to the engine at the header tank. From the header tank, it gets circulated around the engine and repeats the cycle.<br />Now the raw water.... It leaves the raw water pump and goes straight to the heat exchanger; picks up the heat and then exits via the exhaust. Just like the new FP's.<br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4wwUMzWEZk/UWZ-wd7uYyI/AAAAAAAAA0I/xBF9EmqX0pk/s1600/P4070304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q4wwUMzWEZk/UWZ-wd7uYyI/AAAAAAAAA0I/xBF9EmqX0pk/s320/P4070304.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finale hookup with generator belt back on.</td></tr></tbody></table>&nbsp; BUT, that's not the end of it. You might imagine that the generator casing may have some internal salt deposits. So, I first ran the engine up with fresh water to temperature and then after cooling down some, drained that water &nbsp;away. I then did another run up using a <a href="http://www.saltx.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: red;">product called "Salt-X"</span></a>. I mixed with water as per directions and repeated the draining of the fluid after cooling down some. This Salt-X is a produce for removing salt deposits in outboard engines and should be available in most marine&nbsp;Chandler&nbsp;stores. Finally, I did another fresh water run up and emptied that too, before using a ethylene glycol "antifreeze/antiboil" product. I'll change that in about 9 months time as well; to make sure all salts that remained have left the cooling system.<br />We also have a fresh water flush system for both our engine and Genset. As we get ready to shut them down for a while, we open a valve to our fresh water tank and close the sea cock. We let the engine run for a minute or two and this then flushes out the seawater from the heat exchanger. Thus prolonging the life of the heat exchanger. Then, after shuting down the motor, it is important to close that fresh water valve; otherwise, the next time you open the sea cock, it can back pressure to the fresh water and ruin your tank supply. It&nbsp;usually&nbsp;only happens once. :-D<br />All up, it took about 2 hours and a ten dollar item to complete. Antifreeze and Salt-X were extra costs; but you should replace you antifreeze once a year anyway. It's mostly for the anti corrosion properties that we use it.The engine actually runs slightly cooler, and with a trip up to the tropics soon, will be beneficial.<img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoatProjects/~4/r1PORud3-PY" height="1" width="1" alt=""/>Paulhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09320074079673445090noreply@blogger.com0http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2013/04/fischer-panda-cooling-system.html