Tek Sen

Tek Sen

The long lines are justified at this family-run spot, which serves Teochew and Nyonya fare, both of which have Chinese roots: pomfret steamed with sour plums, tomatoes, and ginger; potato leaves fried with shrimp paste and chilies; and gulai tumis (stingray in fiery, tamarind-soured gravy). —Robin Eckhardt