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Glenmorangie Part II

Part II The Mash: There are two methods of preparing the mash. This goes for all home- styled Scotch whiskies, not just Glenmorangie. The first, most

Message 1 of 5
, Dec 8, 2005

Part II

The Mash:
There are two methods of preparing the mash. This goes for all home-
styled Scotch whiskies, not just Glenmorangie. The first, most
traditional is all-grain. The second, is a combination of peated
malt and extract (LME). The all grain method is suitable for those
who have background and skills as all-grain beer brewers. The
second is for the many who have difficulty with conversion of
starches, or just plain don't like the work, mess and fuss attached
to all-grain (that's most of us). With beers a connoisseur can tell
the difference. With distilled spirits only a 75yo Highlander could
pick it, and he wouldn't say 'the nae' if the dram was free.

All Grain Mash
The first thing you need to consider is the peated malt. This is
the one constant distinction between Scotch malts. When you talk of
peat, you are really talking of the phenols imparted by the peat
smoke. These are measured in parts per million (ppm) of finished
whiskies. Glenmorangie is light to moderate in phenol, around 8 or
9 ppm. Some, like the Islay malts, are closer to 45 ppm. If
there's one way of experimenting and adjusting your mashes that will
produce noticeable changes, it's varying the peated malt fraction of
the grain bill. You need to use a peated malt somewhat higher in
phenols than your desired finished product, as some of the phenols
get left behind during distillation, although most are recycled
through the feints to the next batch (more on that later).

You can buy peated malt grain from homebrew outlets, but it is only
around the 15 to 17 ppm mark. Consequently you can't make the
stronger Islay type malts at home, unless you get really
enthusiastic and peat your own malt, or add something like a smoke
essence to your finished spirit. However, 15 to 17 ppm is ideal as
a starting point for Glenmorangie. Just tone it down a fraction by
mixing it 3 : 1 with unpeated malt (3 of peated, 1 of unpeated).
This will give a finished spirit in the range of Glenmorangie.

Do your mash & sparge as per the usual brewing methods, with one
very important exception i.e. do NOT use hops. Hops when
concentrated by distillation give a very overpowering bitter taste
and is the reason you can't just take beer and distill it. Aim for
a wort of around 8% potential alcohol and a quick ferment with a
combination of baker's and brewer's yeasts, to finish in about 3 to
4 days. Let it settle for a further 1 or 2 days after the bubbling
has all-but stopped, to let the yeast re-absorb excess diacetyl,
then do the first distillation.

Some will tell you that you can make a much higher gravity wort and
use a turbo-type yeast, or a high-attenuation yeast like Lalvin EC-
1118 or Red Star (same strain). You can, but what you finish up
with will not even remotely resemble Glenmorangie, or any other
Scotch malt. The yeast used plays a far more important role in
producing Scotch than mere carbohydrate conversion. It is a huge
factor in the taste of the finished article. For this reason, it is
better to follow the methods used by the distilleries, that of a
fast-acting yeast (bakers, ~1gm/litre) to quickly start the
fermentation and stop other yeasts & bacteria getting a foothold,
and a brewers yeast (0.6gm/litre)to get the desired flavours into
the fermentation.

Extract Mash
Extract mash is fairly simple to do. It uses peated malt as a
flavouring adjunct, and if the temperature is handled correctly most
of the starch will also convert, but this is not so critical as with
an all grain batch. For a standard sized wort ~25 litres, heat 15
litres of water to 70°C (158°F), add 2 kg peated malt grain, put a
lid on it and wrap the pot in towels to hold in the heat. Let it
sit for about 1/2 an hour. Strain it through a cotton pillow-case,
rinse the grains with 4 litres of hot water (77°C, 170°F).

To the 19 litres of hot fluid, add 6 kg liquid malt extract (LME,
pale malt extract, NO hops) and stir in until dissolved. DO NOT
boil this mixture as you will scorch the extract syrup. Cool the
wort as quickly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or decant it into
smaller quantities and put it in the fridge. It needs to be ~25 to
26°C (77 to 80°F). Transfer to your fermenter, stir in plenty of
air in the process, pitch the yeasts and airlock it. Follow the
same procedure re fermentation time, as for all grain.

This should get you started on the road to Glenmorangie Scotch.
Part III, the distillation, follows soon.

Slainte!
Regards Harry
Moderator

Robert Hubble

Harry and Sascha, First Harry; thanks for the 3-part diatribe, which I ll be using next month. Your information was incredibly timely, and in wonderful detail.

Message 2 of 5
, Dec 10, 2005

Harry and Sascha,

First Harry; thanks for the 3-part diatribe, which I'll be using next month.
Your information was incredibly timely, and in wonderful detail. In
short, everything i wanted to know.

Sascha, I am running a tall unpacked potstill, based on a 5-gallon pressure
cooker with a screw-in 2"x24" copper pipe column, 45-degree lyne arm feeding
a modified Leibig condenser. The dimensions were sorta pulled out my ass,
and modified by what materials were available, but it's close to what Harry
describes, and acts pretty much like the still he suggests.

I've been using this still for about 8 months, and the design was intended
to have similar proportions to the tall scotch stills from various
distillers, and has a fair amount of "accidental" reflux from ambient
cooling. If there is a problem, it is that while the product is
exceptionally smooth, it is also exceptionally light in flavor, as Harry
predicts. Fortunately, it is possible to control the reflux somewhat by
insulating the column. Simply wrapping rags around it has produced some
nicely stronger flavors, and I'm experimenting with that now.

I can't wait to combine Harry's recipe and procedure with my still.

>From: "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...>
>Reply-To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Distillers] Glenmorangie Part II
>Date: Fri, 09 Dec 2005 06:36:14 -0000
>
>Part II
>
>The Mash:
>There are two methods of preparing the mash. This goes for all home-
>styled Scotch whiskies, not just Glenmorangie. The first, most
>traditional is all-grain. The second, is a combination of peated
>malt and extract (LME). The all grain method is suitable for those
>who have background and skills as all-grain beer brewers. The
>second is for the many who have difficulty with conversion of
>starches, or just plain don't like the work, mess and fuss attached
>to all-grain (that's most of us). With beers a connoisseur can tell
>the difference. With distilled spirits only a 75yo Highlander could
>pick it, and he wouldn't say 'the nae' if the dram was free.
>
>All Grain Mash
>The first thing you need to consider is the peated malt. This is
>the one constant distinction between Scotch malts. When you talk of
>peat, you are really talking of the phenols imparted by the peat
>smoke. These are measured in parts per million (ppm) of finished
>whiskies. Glenmorangie is light to moderate in phenol, around 8 or
>9 ppm. Some, like the Islay malts, are closer to 45 ppm. If
>there's one way of experimenting and adjusting your mashes that will
>produce noticeable changes, it's varying the peated malt fraction of
>the grain bill. You need to use a peated malt somewhat higher in
>phenols than your desired finished product, as some of the phenols
>get left behind during distillation, although most are recycled
>through the feints to the next batch (more on that later).
>
>You can buy peated malt grain from homebrew outlets, but it is only
>around the 15 to 17 ppm mark. Consequently you can't make the
>stronger Islay type malts at home, unless you get really
>enthusiastic and peat your own malt, or add something like a smoke
>essence to your finished spirit. However, 15 to 17 ppm is ideal as
>a starting point for Glenmorangie. Just tone it down a fraction by
>mixing it 3 : 1 with unpeated malt (3 of peated, 1 of unpeated).
>This will give a finished spirit in the range of Glenmorangie.
>
>Do your mash & sparge as per the usual brewing methods, with one
>very important exception i.e. do NOT use hops. Hops when
>concentrated by distillation give a very overpowering bitter taste
>and is the reason you can't just take beer and distill it. Aim for
>a wort of around 8% potential alcohol and a quick ferment with a
>combination of baker's and brewer's yeasts, to finish in about 3 to
>4 days. Let it settle for a further 1 or 2 days after the bubbling
>has all-but stopped, to let the yeast re-absorb excess diacetyl,
>then do the first distillation.
>
>Some will tell you that you can make a much higher gravity wort and
>use a turbo-type yeast, or a high-attenuation yeast like Lalvin EC-
>1118 or Red Star (same strain). You can, but what you finish up
>with will not even remotely resemble Glenmorangie, or any other
>Scotch malt. The yeast used plays a far more important role in
>producing Scotch than mere carbohydrate conversion. It is a huge
>factor in the taste of the finished article. For this reason, it is
>better to follow the methods used by the distilleries, that of a
>fast-acting yeast (bakers, ~1gm/litre) to quickly start the
>fermentation and stop other yeasts & bacteria getting a foothold,
>and a brewers yeast (0.6gm/litre)to get the desired flavours into
>the fermentation.
>
>Extract Mash
>Extract mash is fairly simple to do. It uses peated malt as a
>flavouring adjunct, and if the temperature is handled correctly most
>of the starch will also convert, but this is not so critical as with
>an all grain batch. For a standard sized wort ~25 litres, heat 15
>litres of water to 70�C (158�F), add 2 kg peated malt grain, put a
>lid on it and wrap the pot in towels to hold in the heat. Let it
>sit for about 1/2 an hour. Strain it through a cotton pillow-case,
>rinse the grains with 4 litres of hot water (77�C, 170�F).
>
>To the 19 litres of hot fluid, add 6 kg liquid malt extract (LME,
>pale malt extract, NO hops) and stir in until dissolved. DO NOT
>boil this mixture as you will scorch the extract syrup. Cool the
>wort as quickly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or decant it into
>smaller quantities and put it in the fridge. It needs to be ~25 to
>26�C (77 to 80�F). Transfer to your fermenter, stir in plenty of
>air in the process, pitch the yeasts and airlock it. Follow the
>same procedure re fermentation time, as for all grain.
>
>This should get you started on the road to Glenmorangie Scotch.
>Part III, the distillation, follows soon.
>
>Slainte!
>Regards Harry
>Moderator
>
>
>
>

His article was good wasn t it :)! I would be interested in hearing about your product using Harry s proceedure. Let me know how it turns out and any bumps

Message 3 of 5
, Dec 10, 2005

His article was good wasn't it :)! I would be interested in hearing
about your product using Harry's proceedure. Let me know how it
turns out and any bumps you might encounter along the way that I
might run into too..
Thanks
Sasha.

> >styled Scotch whiskies, not just Glenmorangie. The first, most
> >traditional is all-grain. The second, is a combination of peated
> >malt and extract (LME). The all grain method is suitable for those
> >who have background and skills as all-grain beer brewers. The
> >second is for the many who have difficulty with conversion of
> >starches, or just plain don't like the work, mess and fuss attached
> >to all-grain (that's most of us). With beers a connoisseur can

tell

> >the difference. With distilled spirits only a 75yo Highlander

could

> >pick it, and he wouldn't say 'the nae' if the dram was free.
> >
> >All Grain Mash
> >The first thing you need to consider is the peated malt. This is
> >the one constant distinction between Scotch malts. When you talk

of

> >peat, you are really talking of the phenols imparted by the peat
> >smoke. These are measured in parts per million (ppm) of finished
> >whiskies. Glenmorangie is light to moderate in phenol, around 8 or
> >9 ppm. Some, like the Islay malts, are closer to 45 ppm. If
> >there's one way of experimenting and adjusting your mashes that

will

> >produce noticeable changes, it's varying the peated malt fraction

of

> >the grain bill. You need to use a peated malt somewhat higher in
> >phenols than your desired finished product, as some of the phenols
> >get left behind during distillation, although most are recycled
> >through the feints to the next batch (more on that later).
> >
> >You can buy peated malt grain from homebrew outlets, but it is only
> >around the 15 to 17 ppm mark. Consequently you can't make the
> >stronger Islay type malts at home, unless you get really
> >enthusiastic and peat your own malt, or add something like a smoke
> >essence to your finished spirit. However, 15 to 17 ppm is ideal as
> >a starting point for Glenmorangie. Just tone it down a fraction by
> >mixing it 3 : 1 with unpeated malt (3 of peated, 1 of unpeated).
> >This will give a finished spirit in the range of Glenmorangie.
> >
> >Do your mash & sparge as per the usual brewing methods, with one
> >very important exception i.e. do NOT use hops. Hops when
> >concentrated by distillation give a very overpowering bitter taste
> >and is the reason you can't just take beer and distill it. Aim for
> >a wort of around 8% potential alcohol and a quick ferment with a
> >combination of baker's and brewer's yeasts, to finish in about 3 to
> >4 days. Let it settle for a further 1 or 2 days after the bubbling
> >has all-but stopped, to let the yeast re-absorb excess diacetyl,
> >then do the first distillation.
> >
> >Some will tell you that you can make a much higher gravity wort and
> >use a turbo-type yeast, or a high-attenuation yeast like Lalvin EC-
> >1118 or Red Star (same strain). You can, but what you finish up
> >with will not even remotely resemble Glenmorangie, or any other
> >Scotch malt. The yeast used plays a far more important role in
> >producing Scotch than mere carbohydrate conversion. It is a huge
> >factor in the taste of the finished article. For this reason, it

is

> >better to follow the methods used by the distilleries, that of a
> >fast-acting yeast (bakers, ~1gm/litre) to quickly start the
> >fermentation and stop other yeasts & bacteria getting a foothold,
> >and a brewers yeast (0.6gm/litre)to get the desired flavours into
> >the fermentation.
> >
> >Extract Mash
> >Extract mash is fairly simple to do. It uses peated malt as a
> >flavouring adjunct, and if the temperature is handled correctly

most

> >of the starch will also convert, but this is not so critical as

with

> >an all grain batch. For a standard sized wort ~25 litres, heat 15
> >litres of water to 70°C (158°F), add 2 kg peated malt grain, put a
> >lid on it and wrap the pot in towels to hold in the heat. Let it
> >sit for about 1/2 an hour. Strain it through a cotton pillow-case,
> >rinse the grains with 4 litres of hot water (77°C, 170°F).
> >
> >To the 19 litres of hot fluid, add 6 kg liquid malt extract (LME,
> >pale malt extract, NO hops) and stir in until dissolved. DO NOT
> >boil this mixture as you will scorch the extract syrup. Cool the
> >wort as quickly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or decant it into
> >smaller quantities and put it in the fridge. It needs to be ~25 to
> >26°C (77 to 80°F). Transfer to your fermenter, stir in plenty of
> >air in the process, pitch the yeasts and airlock it. Follow the
> >same procedure re fermentation time, as for all grain.
> >
> >This should get you started on the road to Glenmorangie Scotch.
> >Part III, the distillation, follows soon.
> >
> >Slainte!
> >Regards Harry
> >Moderator
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar  get it now!
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>

Robert Hubble

Sascha. It s a deal. I hope to have great news! ... *CLIP* Zymurgy Bob _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected?

Message 4 of 5
, Dec 11, 2005

Sascha.

It's a deal. I hope to have great news!

>From: "Sasha" <blackrabbit.namespace@...>
>Reply-To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Distillers] Re: Glenmorangie Part II (actually Part III)
>Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2005 08:34:20 -0000
>
>His article was good wasn't it :)! I would be interested in hearing
>about your product using Harry's proceedure. Let me know how it
>turns out and any bumps you might encounter along the way that I
>might run into too..
>Thanks
>Sasha.
>
>
>--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Hubble" <zymurgybob@h...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Harry and Sascha,
> >
> > First Harry; thanks for the 3-part diatribe, which I'll be using
>next month.

(digging through my overwealmed inbox...) awesome articles harry, I m *definitely* using this as my guide when i try my first whiskey. my only question is

Message 5 of 5
, Feb 2, 2006

(digging through my overwealmed inbox...)

awesome articles harry, I'm *definitely* using this as my guide when i
try my first whiskey. my only question is this:

any specific yeast strain recommendations to get the most authentic
flavor? i have access to white labs yeasts, these seem like likely
candidates:

Edinburgh Ale
English Ale
Irish Ale
British Ale

-henry

> Aim for
> a wort of around 8% potential alcohol and a quick ferment with a
> combination of baker's and brewer's yeasts, to finish in about 3 to
> 4 days. Let it settle for a further 1 or 2 days after the bubbling
> has all-but stopped, to let the yeast re-absorb excess diacetyl,
> then do the first distillation.
>

> Some will tell you that you can make a much higher gravity wort and
> use a turbo-type yeast, or a high-attenuation yeast like Lalvin EC-
> 1118 or Red Star (same strain). You can, but what you finish up
> with will not even remotely resemble Glenmorangie, or any other
> Scotch malt. The yeast used plays a far more important role in
> producing Scotch than mere carbohydrate conversion. It is a huge
> factor in the taste of the finished article. For this reason, it is
> better to follow the methods used by the distilleries, that of a
> fast-acting yeast (bakers, ~1gm/litre) to quickly start the
> fermentation and stop other yeasts & bacteria getting a foothold,
> and a brewers yeast (0.6gm/litre)to get the desired flavours into
> the fermentation.
>
>

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