Hi all - just recently transitioned from an older BMW to a new F10 550i. I have a Valentine One radar detector that I had installed in the old car, wired to the switched power for the sunroof above the overhead lights, and positioned just to the left of the rear view mirror. It worked very reliably in that area.

With the 550, I'm trying to figure out:

a) Where is the best place to put the V1 on the windshield? I've read some posts that indicate there is a coating on a majority of the windshield that limits radar transmission effectiveness.
b) Can I still pull switched power from the sunroof electrical without computer system issues? Is this the best/easiest way to power the unit? If so, how do I get pop out the headliner/overhead light control panel to get to the wiring (without damaging anything, of course)?

Has anyone else installed a V1 or other radar detector in their new F10 and solved these issues?

Appreciate any help or feedback, and pictures are always useful - thanks!

Hi all - just recently transitioned from an older BMW to a new F10 550i. I have a Valentine One radar detector that I had installed in the old car, wired to the switched power for the sunroof above the overhead lights, and positioned just to the left of the rear view mirror. It worked very reliably in that area.

With the 550, I'm trying to figure out:

a) Where is the best place to put the V1 on the windshield? I've read some posts that indicate there is a coating on a majority of the windshield that limits radar transmission effectiveness.
b) Can I still pull switched power from the sunroof electrical without computer system issues? Is this the best/easiest way to power the unit? If so, how do I get pop out the headliner/overhead light control panel to get to the wiring (without damaging anything, of course)?

Has anyone else installed a V1 or other radar detector in their new F10 and solved these issues?

Appreciate any help or feedback, and pictures are always useful - thanks!

I am waiting for the hotwire kit to come in the mail from Valentine. I always use the sunroof wire to connect, then use the visor clip - I've done this in 4+ cars and it should be pretty straight forward. The overhead panel usually just pops out pretty easily. I used it with the cord running from the cigarette lighter outlet for the 500 mile trip back from performance center and didn't notice any issues with it picking up radar, but I guess the only way to find out for sure is to try it next to another car that def has no issues.

That's the first I've heard of any interference with the windshield hindering performance.

I'm planning on installing a V1 on my F10 as well. It should arrive in about 2 weeks. I also ordered a conceal display and remote audio unit as well.

I'm planning on installing the V1 on the rear dash/deck(?... What do you call that?) facing forward as if it would be positioned on the front windshield (in short, facing forward). Hardly anyone would seat in the middle seat so the radar would have a clear view of the front. Of course it would be elevated enough to clear all obstacles in it's sight.

As far as the connection would go, my radar jammer installer tapped the cig lighter in the center console and left me a pig tail for my "future" radar detector install so I'll tap that for my concealed display and daisy chain the remote audio and V1. I got the remote audio because it would be impossible for any audio adjustment while driving.

Be aware that your V1 will not power down right away in most electrical connections you make. Even the cig lighter takes about 2 min to shut off after you lock the doors. I timed this. I'm guessing the sunroof has a similar shut off time after the doors are locked as all current drainage is controlled by the computer and is shut off automatically. Not an expert in this area but I don't see why it would be different.

Radar ignorant question: anyone have any experience installing/using a Passport Qi45 on an F10? To me this product minimizes clutter, but I really have no idea if it’s actually worth the expense.

The Qi45 has great sensitivity and is comparable with any top radar detectors nowadays.

Your choice of Radar Detector should depend on where you'll be using most of the time. If it's city, then I would go with something like a 9500ix or the 9500ci which uses GPS database to not "chirp" when there are known/learned falses. If you're not the patient kind, you'll probably throw a normal detector out the window within the first week. It's a matter of knowing the limits of the detector.

I chose the Valentine One because it will be used mostly for highway use. It's sensitivity and directional indicators more than makes up for it's "falses" in the city. Keep in mind that you can greatly reduce falses by programing out frequencies that your area does not use.

Going back to the install... It shouldn't be too hard to install the Qi45. The radar receiver should install just fine behind our huge grill and you can channel the cable along the inner fender and through the fire wall where you can find a plug that all the cabling goes through. A fishing tape should work fine. My installers got the radar jammer installed in about 1 hour and I would think it should be the same for the Qi45. The big plus about the Qi45 is that you can add a laser jammer at a later time as a plug and play on the radar receiver.

Be aware that your V1 will not power down right away in most electrical connections you make. Even the cig lighter takes about 2 min to shut off after you lock the doors. I timed this. I'm guessing the sunroof has a similar shut off time after the doors are locked as all current drainage is controlled by the computer and is shut off automatically. Not an expert in this area but I don't see why it would be different.

Good luck with your install.

It seems that the 12V input in the center console and the 12V input under the glove compartment does not turn off if you don't lock the door (or at least not within 30 mins with me standing there watching and waiting, until I gave up). As ddd269 stated, the 12V inputs will shut off (after 2 mins) only when the doors are locked. Unfortunately, when I park the F10 in my garage, I forget to lock the car and the Valentine V1 stays on.... Trying to avoid having to 'add a circuit' to the fuse box, but does anyone know why the 12V is active unless the doors are locked? If I have to run Valentine power to the fuse box, does anyone know which fuse is a switched circuit (power remains off when the engine is turned off, and doors not having to be locked)? Fuse 57?

I don't know if this will work for the newer F10's, but could at least be similar. I found this link in the M3 post section. As mentioned in the link it works for hard-wiring all types of radar detectors, and installed on an E90....

I'm sure that this is a convenience feature so that if you are sitting in the car waiting for junior to finish his (or her) ballet lesson, you can charge your phone or listen to your ipod without needing the ignition turned on.

My E92 does this for (I think) 20 minutes. Then when it shuts off the computer makes all kinds of noises and the fan comes on and wakes me (yes, I nap in the car sometimes). I'm hoping that my F10 will be a bit quieter.

Your choice of Radar Detector should depend on where you'll be using most of the time.

My last ticket was given to me courtesy of "instant-on" radar and cost me around $250 in lawyer and court costs. My previous ticket was courtesy of "VASCAR" which is, as I understand it, a method of timing you from point a to point b and doing some sophisticated mathematical calculations to determine the speed. He said I was doing 81. I was doing at least 81, so I didn't argue. That also cost me around $250.

Neither time did my detector do me any good, so I have stopped using one and now I try to keep my speed within 10 MPH of the limit or stay with traffic if its really hustling. I'm also trying to set a better example for the kids (one of whom is now driving).

However, detectors have saved my bacon many times in the past, so I may revisit the issue once my car shows up.

Neither time did my detector do me any good, so I have stopped using one and now I try to keep my speed within 10 MPH of the limit or stay with traffic if its really hustling. I'm also trying to set a better example for the kids (one of whom is now driving).

However, detectors have saved my bacon many times in the past, so I may revisit the issue once my car shows up.

In my area, I am seeing a lot more lasers. I removed my detector because of a broken wire, and have decided not to bother replacing it. I find the best defense is knowing where the speed traps are and keeping a good eye out. Been ticket free for a long time now.

I did my V1 install in the back of the car a month ago and forgot to show it to you guys. I forgot that I posted on this thread in the past, until I got notified of this thread again.

I installed the V1 on the back dash/deck and wired a concealed display unit on the dashboard and a remote audio unit as well so the V1 is not chirping from the back. This way I can turn on/off and control the volume from the front.

Anyways, I'll go home and take some pictures of the install and post it here.

Hardwiring a radar detector should be the same, whether it's V1 or Escort. I installed an 'add-a-circuit' mini fuse (purchased mine at parts-express.com) to the fuse box (located in the glove compartment). Fuse #48 worked for me. You'll also need a 'direct wire' from Escort (their website escortradar.com has it). For general overview of direct wiring, Youtube has lots of 'how to' for direct wiring the Escort. Hope this helps.

Anyone experience a lot of false positives with the valentine one? If my V1 is at i-Drive screen or higher (holding it in my hand), I get a constant false positive coming from behind. I've had no choice but to unplug it.

In my area, I am seeing a lot more lasers. I removed my detector because of a broken wire, and have decided not to bother replacing it. I find the best defense is knowing where the speed traps are and keeping a good eye out. Been ticket free for a long time now.
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I haven't seen much of anything besides laser around these parts for a while, it's near 100% laser now.

Oh, and regarding VASCAR, it's just timing between two measured points. No sophisticated math involved at all.