Corkscrew Vine Propagation Cutting

The blooms of the corkscrew vine resemble a snail's shell when viewed from the side.

The corkscrew or snail vine (Vigna caracalla), a tender perennial vine, produces fragrant, spiral blooms. Apart from the unusual white or yellow and purple blooms, the plant has beanlike foliage that is evergreen in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 12. The plant is a rampant grower, easily covering a fence or trellis in one season and capable of growing 25 feet long in two years, corkscrew vine is an attractive way to hide an ugly fence or outbuilding or to quickly cover a sturdy arbor or trellis. Make more of this useful plant by starting stem cuttings in early spring.

Propagation Supplies

When propagating non-woody plants, it's best to have everything on hand to complete the process -- from taking the cutting from the plant through putting it in soil -- so there are no delays that let the cuttings dry out. You'll need a sharp razor blade or paring knife with a straight edge to take the cutting from the corkscrew vine. Scissors or pruning shears can crush the end of the vine, making it less likely to root. Sterilize the blade with rubbing alcohol or a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. You will also need 3- to 4-inch pots -- either peat pots or new or sterilized plastic -- for the number of new plants you need, plus one or two extra in case some cuttings do not take. Sterile rooting medium to fill the pots may be either a soil-less commercial mix or a blend of equal parts peat moss and perlite. Powdered rooting hormone, while not essential, helps speed the process along. Master Gardeners of Napa County recommend using a rooting hormone that includes a fungicide to prevent the cuttings from rotting before they root.

Taking the Cutting

As new growth begins on your established corkscrew vine, untangle one or more stems and cut off about 6 inches, starting from a terminal end, or tip, and ending just below a node -- a swelling on the stem that can become either a leaf or roots. Cuttings taken first thing in the morning root best, as they are more hydrated. Remove any flower buds and the leaves on the bottom one-third of the cutting. Do this for each cutting.

Potting Up

Fill pots with moist rooting mix and have them ready to go before taking the cuttings for efficient, no fuss, no muss propagation. Make a small hole in the center of each pot with your pinky finger or a pencil, then dip the cut end of the corkscrew vine into the rooting compound, place it in the hole about 2 inches deep, covering the node, and firm the soil around it. Place the pots with the cuttings in bright, indirect light where temperatures are about 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Mist frequently to keep the cuttings moist, or cover them with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity.

Transplanting

The corkscrew vines are ready to transplant when you see new growth and you get some resistance when you gently tug on a cutting's top growth. Prepare a site near a fence or arbor in full sun with moist soil that has a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Plant your young corkscrew vines at the same level they were in their propagation pots. You can just pop cuttings grown in a peat pot directly in the ground -- tear off any part of the pot that would extend above the soil to avoid wicking moisture away from the plant. Keep it well watered -- fertilizer is usually not necessary -- and trim to control size.

About the Author

Patricia Hamilton Reed has written professionally since 1987. Reed was editor of the "Grand Ledge Independent" weekly newspaper and a Capitol Hill reporter for the national newsletter "Corporate & Foundation Grants Alert." She has a Bachelor of Arts in journalism from Michigan State University, is an avid gardener and volunteers at her local botanical garden.