call around to the car parts stores that rent tools first, but if not, fleetpride here in denver (303 288 8108) has 100-600# tw advertised for $354.95, or you can get a torque multiplier for a few bucks less.

I've never in my life used a torque wrench on a crank bolt and I've done my fair share of engines. A little dab of light duty locktite and a good 250 ft lb impact wrench will ensure it stays on forever.

The problem with that Randy on the 1FZ is that the drive gear for the oil pump and power steering is not keyed. It is held in spot by the torqued nut/ clamping the vibration damptner to the drive gear, that must be torqued to that number of 309. If the drive gear was Key, there would be no problem with doing your method. A few people have done you method and they lost oil pressure and power steering boost. I do know of a couple people that lost the bottom end bearing because of your method.

I checked with NAPA yesterday regarding renting one. They do not. But referred me to someone who might. I will check with them Monday. This is a tool I'd like to own but its alot of $$$. Then considering how often I use my other smaller torque wrenchs this one would probably just look pretty in the tool box the rest of its life.

The problem with that Randy on the 1FZ is that the drive gear for the oil pump and power steering is not keyed. It is held in spot by the torqued nut/ clamping the vibration damptner to the drive gear, that must be torqued to that number of 309. If the drive gear was Key, there would be no problem with doing your method. A few people have done you method and they lost oil pressure and power steering boost. I do know of a couple people that lost the bottom end bearing because of your method.

That would be a bummer, sounds like another good reason to stay with the ol' 2F