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China Jade occupies a little space in a forgettable east Aurora strip mall, surrounded by French bakeries, barbecue restaurants, Eastern European groceries, nail salons and coffee shops. From the outside, it isn't much to look at. Inside, it's small, with ten tables, a register, a Buddha here, a good luck cat there, and one of those backlit menus hanging near the ceiling filled with pictures of kung pao chicken and sweet-and-sour pork in unnatural Day-Glo colors. Calling it intimate would make it sound too twee, cozy too warm. It's simply small and close and crowded. And possibly the best Chinese restaurant in Denver.

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