Description

This is the highest of the two largest ice routes in Big Thompson. It is a little harder than the lower falls, and usually comes in later and melts out sooner. A fun pitch, and not as crowded as the lower most of the time.

Protection

Screws.

Toprope Protection

Trees.

Location

This lies about 7 miles downhill from Mall Rd. in Estes Park. Near mile marker 72, on the south side of the river. This necessitates a potentially-hazardous river crossing.

This is a wide flow perhaps with 40-50 feet of climbing with a couple trees set back about 85 feet from the base of the main climbing. Pass the lower falls (sometimes dry) on the W side on a trail. Perhaps 400 vertical feet up the drainage. Not visible from the road. There is a short 10 foot step of WI2 to get to the main flow which can be bypassed on the left. The main flow is wide enough to accomodate multiple symbiotic parties. WI2-3 lines. Never vertical. Long slings (approx 48") are useful to sling the big tree. Walk off right. Beware crossing the ice above the 10 foot step without crampons. This area is wind sheltered. Nice place for a first lead. No road noise here. Anyone know if there are other similar ice gullies downsteam above the bits of blue abutting the river?

Was up there this morning. The lowest section (WI 1-2) is melted-out. The middle and the upper are in nice shape. The middle falls are short (maybe 15') of steep (not vertical) WI 2. The upper falls are WI 2-3, depending on the line. The right hand side of the upper falls offered some nice mixed climbing past a shallow cave. A few of the lines have some short vertical sections, but the vertical sections are rarely longer than maybe 12-15 feet.

Pretty fat - maybe the biggest I've seen in a few years. Full curtain varies (small void in middle) from WI2-3. Great after-work romp. Catch it quickly though, weather forecast for this week is springlike, so it may turn to slush.

Hiked up to the upper on my way up the canyon this morning (11/4) to see if it was forming at all after the recent big storm. As to be expected, no ice yet. There must have been some hellatious wind though, there are several downed trees full of green needles. A hand saw may prove useful.

The maze of logs piled up on the approach to the upper falls has been cleared. On the 19th of Feb., there was a rescue at the Big T ice climb, and many trees had to be removed in order for S&R to get the individual down the mtn.