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and it cost alot more than the regular or aluminum rods, but seeing all those BL motors money is not a problem to you man, i'd love to get one of the 1512 size BL motor. just curiuos, whats your favorite truck that you run the most?

Well worth the $$. The LT Ti rods, I hit a T post at about 35 mph right on the rod & it bent it just a bit. Took it apart straight'n it out still running..
Well still finishing the 5ive, I'm in no hurry, so haven't drove it yet...making battery hold downs & finish painting the body.
I really do like driving them all. Took the Summit out yesterday. I think the dogs had more fun than I did. Ha.. They are napping right now.

I think it's time to upgrade to Lunsford Titanium push rods. Don't know what I hit, but it was something. I have another set of Ti push rods, but they are for the LT rockers. SO... as you can see I bought a new set for the P2 rockers, new rod ends & hollow balls. The rods come with a zip tie cut to length for setting the rod ends lenght.
P/N's Rods Lun2807 Rod ends Tra5348
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will be considering these soon...how much did u get urs for...and how are they holding up now?

I tried to use the alum rod spacers, but there is nothing for the spacer to shoulder on. The "width" of the space is short too,
I tried doubling spacers, but it was to wide to set the push rod length. They are working SO far so good.....I had the Titanium push rods for the LT rockers on my Revo & I never had any trouble with the rod ends either....

Went for a easy run, everything looked & sounded good. Few small jumps nothing big, just an easy run. Went to blow it off & clean it up & the shock caps are leaking (all four).

If you remember I took the blatters out of the stock caps & put them in the alum caps. I drilled two small breather holes in the top of the cap. I lost a little less than half the fluid. It looked liked the fluid was coming out of the threads of the cap.. So I took the caps off & measured them to the stock caps. Everything is right on. I am thinking I need to make the breather holes just a little bigger. If the air is not coming out of the breather holes fast enough, so it is pushing the shock fluid out of the threads of the cap??? I didn't want to drill the hole in the side like the stock cap, because of the threads on the inside of the cap. Also if I missed the placement it might leak. (hahaha)

Any ideas or suggestions.. thanks...

Did you got around fixing (or using...) your alum shock caps? I'm looking at putting GH ones. Not sure about the top drill...Looks to me this would allow the bladder to deform too much due to lack of pressure between the bladder and the inside top of the cap. The side bleeder hole seems useful to prevent oil pressure in the threads on plastic caps as they could expand causing leak, not the case with alum...just a thought...

idk right or wrong, i drilled the top of the cap for two reasons.
1) I didn't want to screw up the threads inside the cap
2) I didn't want to miss on centering the the hole on the side of the cap (to high or low)

I took a cap to work & lathed off .020 ~ .030, it just seamed the cap was bottoming out before the cap tight'n to the blatter.
I have yet to test tho........

I think the breather hole is to let the air push out as the blatter cycles. Also lets the extra oil out if you over fill the shock.

some talk about a ramp, I have an old thread (5/8/11) I am dropping in here........
todate best jump 44' long & about 8' high, ramp is 3' wide & weight about 45 to 50 lbs...only used the extra height a few times, jumps best flat on the ground...

This is my little ramp.
I stared by drawing out the curve on a piece of brown paper. Took me forever to get the arc the way I wanted it. Then I transfered it to a cardboard templet. Now for the fun part. I started with a piece of 4'x8' sheet metal. Traced out my templet hated it & changed it again. Finaly went for it & stared plasma cutting. Cut everything & stared tack welding it together. Got it all tacked up & started welding. I had the idea of making it height adjustable. So I cut round tubing one that would slide inside the other. Then drilled holes every 2" for the key keepers. I then welded spikes & feet on the ends of the tubing. To keep the ramps from sliding. Well tell me what you think. The Maxx has been banded from this ramp. HAD A MAXX, sold it all......

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Check out where the skid & the A arms have been hitting.
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06 EXC 525, just rolled over 10,000 miles
Bought it new & Taged it before they changed the Title... MSO as off road use only....
I will never sell this bike.......... in a couple of years going put on the 540 kit.
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Urtoast

WELCOME to Project

URTOAST
Still ordering parts, & have a few things to work thru. Been about year & a half sence I have worked on a truck other than a driveshaft or something qiuck & easy. Not sure where I want to start. LOL....This is going to be a purpose built street machine... Lets see if what I have invisioned comes out...

Black chassis, of coarse. I was going to upgrade to alum shock mounts. The mounts I found looked ok, only thing I did not like about them, was the nesting that the plastic ones have for the shock end. Don't plan on doing any big jumps anyways, so its a pass for now...

We wait with eager anticipation for the completed build. Would love to see some vid's of it up and running as well as of your other trucks in action. After all, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

yeah i need something to do now too, since i got my GT runnin, i'm fairly happy. now i need to save some $$$ to get my REVO-E running again, i'm still trying to decide wether get MMM or something else.

parts are coming in slow & still need to order a few parts. Trans is lubed & ready to go tho....white lithium grease....
With all the bearings out, took off the seals & pack with lithium grease.....Use the razor blade trick, on the outer edge & lift the seal off. I grease all the bearings this way, except for the knuckle bearing, attracts to much dirt & short'n the life of the bearings.
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Diff Carrier:
Looking at an old thread, I was not able to find the carrier I was looking for.. so I'm going to try the Hot Racing.
Broke down a new diff, took out the gears & parts to install into the new carrier. I did not take a pic, but the I beam will not slide into the new carrier without some grinding. A little more grinding than I thought it would take, but it is in there. As you can see you don't use the tabs with the new carrier. I was thinking of milling a slot so I could use them, but we will try without for now. Did a test fit with the gears, & all good just a little drag so no shimming. Going to fill the carrier with 120K diff fluid. Then some Blue loctite on the srews, because the carrier is alum..

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=== Notice the three different lengths of screws. From bottom to top, Screws form the stock carrier (to long), screws I'm going to use, & the screws included with the new carrier. The new screws look a little short & I don't like the bevel head. The screws I'm using, are just some I have, the thread is .310 long.
===better pic of the lenght of the two diff lengths of screws...
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Looking good there mate...I tried to find a socket head cap screw to replace the countersunk one like you did...they sold them in sets of 100 down here; I didn't need so many so I used the ones provided.

I have run 4 sets of 2/2s through my eSlayer and the diffs are holding up well...this is a 2/3s build you're busy with now??

sure.......yep... street machine going to run 2/3s...
They'er here about time...paid $40.00 each, found them cheaper but they were not in stock....STRC p/n ST5380B alum CNC machined outer diff case Revo. Once again the supplied screw are less than ideal. So as you can see, back to the screw box & found some allen heads. .380 long perfect fit..

Nice mate...I'm really happy with mine...so far no issues with the eSlayer, its only running 2/2s tho. I will be watching to see how they hold up to 2/3s. I used the socket head cap screw from my old diff case for mine.

This is what I have been working on, it has not been going well. I tried powder coating the motor plate & a few other parts. Without removing the blue anodizing. Well it did not work, I had to remove the anodizing. After half a can of Easy Off for two days. I did not get a pic, but it did not get things clean enough to powder coat. Glassbead blasted the rest of the anodizing at work. Still have more parts to coat but this is a sneak peek of what I am going for.....more to come.
parts in Easy Off. Yes there is two outer diff housings in there...
blasted parts
a few parts powder coated.

FINALLY after some trial & a few errors, I have figured out how to get the powder coating to work..
Before powder coating the diff housing, used some heat tape to keep the power out of the bearing groove. Heat tape is rating to around 400 *F. Still had the clean a little off but not to bad...
and after powder coating you can still see some of the anodizing, that the Easy Off was unable to take off.
good pic of the carriers assembled & the outer diff housing
this is what I use for grease, White Lithium
shims
shims

more pics, carrier in diff housing, it did take a few 6mm shims but not to bad....
Old pic........I pack all the bearings & I now use lith grease for the ring gears,
poor pic I think you get the idea...between the two pics..
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Little bit of blue loctite on the screws, & the diffs are assembled. Because the new housings do not have an"up". Looked at the stock housing & matched the up with the front & rear bulk heads.. I will double check again when I get the bulks mounted to the chassis. If one is upside down or backwards I will have to flip which ever one is backwards... Pic front bulk is on the left & rear is on the right..

Rockers:
I want to be able to try different position on the rockers with out having to change them out..
Had to get the blue rear, I could not find anyone selling the silver. Powder coated the rockers anyways so it didn't really matter..
To keep the powder out of the threads, used some old screws. There was a little bit of powder in where the bearings go, so used a dremel & sanding roll to clean it out.