My friend was using the drives with vigor. I could her the fins hitting the haul at full stroke. He complained about it being hard to peddle. I asked him to remove the peddles. We found the fin missing with the brass nut intact and post intact. I saw a post about it on the forums and I didn't see a reason for it happening or the mode of failure.

Other than losing the fin it was a blast. Its way slower than my H16 but its got brew holders! The TI seems slow on a run with no boom. I also noticed my sail is missing the 2 smaller batons. The previous owner had 2 black triangular flexible plastic pieces (will get a pic later) he didn't know where they went.

I think the 2nd day out we maxed out the speed in some of the gusts because we burried the ama. At that point my friend finally started hiking out on the tramps for some reason he didn't trust them.

I plan on fishing/free diving this boat. Send me some PMs if you are in the Palm Beach area. Please share your wisdom with me, I would really like some more info on the mirage drive fin loss if anyone knows anything. Also does anyone know if hobie would cover that under the warranty?

I recommend inserting the Mirage drive before launch, when it's easy to see and correct any problems. (I insert mine as I remove the hull from the truck rack or trailer) The 2012 & 13 hulls/drives have a new groove/pin to help align.

After inserting the drive, remember to pull one pedal back and bungee it with the bungee/hook to keep the fins flat to the hull until in deep enough water to use them.

Don't mind Nohuhu, he's just jealous that I've broken more different AI parts than him (I try to learn not to break the same parts more than once)

I would prefer for the moment to not install the drives on the trailer. My current trailer is not set up right at all for the TI. Its a wave runner trailer and does not properly support the TI and it is to short. I plan on extending the tongue and adding better supports for the TI once I get some time. Also the bearings don't appear to be very good as the wheels has a slight wobble in them. They don't get hot though.

Do you guys launch from ramps or from sand? I would prefer sand as to not dunk the trailer. Are there any worries about "stepping" the mast on water. I know the mast is easily handled by just me.

Are there any worries about "stepping" the mast on water. I know the mast is easily handled by just me.

I sometimes launch where there is a low bridge between the launch ramp and the ocean (Puget Sound, actually). The passage under the bridge can be quite narrow depending on the tide. Thus, for a typical launch there I take the TI off the trailer, leave the amas folded in, lash the sail to the hull/folded akas, paddle out a few feet to get enough depth to insert the drive, pedal under the bridge (usually sitting way to one side to make room for the mast), continue pedaling to a beach, then getting out and stepping the mast & rigging the sheets.

I never "worried" about it because there was no other way that I could see to do it. It is a pain, especially when the TI is bouncing in the small surf and the mast is blowing in the wind and I'm standing in 3 feet of 45 or 50 degree water.

I agree with Nohuhu that the best way is to step the mast on the trailer: "The mast/ rigging and everything else is Installed and tested on the trailer, where they are easy to reach and no stooping is required. Gotta love that."

But it works either way -- a tribute to the simplicity of the Hobie TI.

Well Fleet Admiral Scott, you ARE getting an education from the experts, some of them quite ingenious modifyers...and help is what these forums are all about!How-ever, no one has yet said what those little black thingys are you asked about.

I strongly suspect that they are little 'caps which seat over the end of your sail batons to make it easier to tie the batons in.

Nohuhu says that fins are not expensive to replace...unless you need to buy a new one every time you sail. What IS BLOODY expensive is the entire mirage drive unit. Drop that little bundle over the side for the fish to examine in 100 feet of silt suspended water and it will cost you in excess of $650 (or here in Australia anyway). I only needed one lesson on that subject and now I always tie mine to the boat SECURELY before I leave the shore.The batons are easily replacable and are required to keep the correct sail shape, remember the sail is loose footed and not supported by a boom. Batons are fibre glass rods about the thickness of a pencil and a length can be obtained from a sailmaker or perhaps even a large hardware storeCheers from Vintagereplica...if it works okay...modify it anyway!

Ah ha, I knew I missed something in your original post. Re those black FLEXIBLE things, they are fittings to go on your Mirage Drive to reduce the amount of water splashing up into the footwell.And perhaps to improve your speed on a run you may need a barber-hauler. I made up a couple that were in the forums but the simplest is a bungee hooked into the rope on the sail that completes the furling operation, running across to the rear black fitting at the rear of each ama. I have one for either side...cheap and effective.Vintagereplica...if it works okay...modify it anyway!

Those black pieces are splash guards for the mirage drives. Saw the same parts in my local kayak store.

I also noticed some gashes on the bottom of the kayak from beaching I suspect. The gash is has a ribbon of the parent material still attached on one side of the gash. The hulls don't leak but It looks like it would add considerable drag. Anyway to "glue" it back down or should i cut it off?

Also been working on my trailer this weekend. I know its a popular opinion to use 3 cradles for the TI. I have 3 but I think I want to put one of the cradles on my Hobie 16 beach wheels. Thoughts?

Unless it's huge, the gouge you should shave off, as smooth as you can, using a plastic "sticker remover" blade or old credit card. You can tape colored duct tape or special rash guards to the bottom of the hull to help prevent future damage.

With practice, you can use a heat gun to melt away minor scrapes and scratches. But be careful or you can deform the hull. Don't let it bubble.