High Life at the Umstead - Luxury in the North Carolina Triangle

Story and Photos for the Washington Post's FW

We (and by that I mean I) were severely underdressed for
lounging at the Umstead. The Forbes five star resort and spa set in a 12-acre wooded
grove in Cary, North Carolina warrants slink; champagne satin a la Harlow, marabou
mules, a coupe not a flute for the bubbly.

Our 1080 square foot suite runs $599, including a foyer,
powder room, huge balcony overlooking the pool (open through November) and a
lake with a trail that skirts splashing fountains and basking turtles.The bath, large enough for a rumba and
standard in all rooms, features a soaking tub, separate glassed shower and
toilet, double vanity, and Gilcrest and Soames toiletries.

What magic have they done with the lighting and mirrors? One
looks ten pounds lighter, three inches taller, positively slinky. Fear not the
dreaded mirrored elevator! You won't regret the final glance before sashaying
off to Herons, the hotel's extraordinary restaurant, or a night cap in the bar
and grill, which borrows glitter from the Dale Chihuly glass sculpture -- the
room's centerpiece captivates the eye from every angle.The hotel's artwork alone is worth the visit.

A zip down the road from the Research Triangle that is Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel
Hill (and the perfect chill out if you're visiting your college student at
Duke, Wake Forest, or UNC),the Umstead is also a fine stopping point on
trips south."It's our fourth
visit," said one glowing guest from Baltimore.
"We've traveled the world and the restaurant is incredible -- and after a
five hour car trip the massage is heavenly!"

Ah, the spa.Included
with your room are separate but equal facilities for men and women, including eucalyptus
infused steam baths, saunas, whirlpools, lounges, a meditation garden, and a
co-ed current pool. There are cucumber slices for the eyes (though we can't
swear they offer them to guys), teas and waters for system cleansing and
invigorating.

Extras include massage therapies from thumping to soothing,
exotic body scrubs, collagen facials and peels, manicures, and waxing. A tour
guide is required to show you the layout. One is provided.

And have you ever been in a scented gym? We (and by that, I
mean I) kid you not.Sweat never smelled
so sweet.

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About Me

A freelance writer for...years...I live with my husband (The Prince) in a too small house with an equally small patch of garden on Capitol Hill in Washington, DC where everything is in more or less perpetual disrepair. Meandering in and out is Baby (our daughter), her dog Lula, and their brand new husband, the lovely Pete. "Wrote This, Wrote That," is a holding zone for a selection of my newspaper and magazine features and photos. These are generally more informative than my blog, Who Needs Flowers/Off With Their Heads...which is peripherally about gardens.