Body Surfing

Most days I go to the beach. I like to sit
in the warm sand and watch the waves.
Like a parking lot, the beach is heaving
with day trippers who have come to play.
Mostly I like to watch the body surfers,
as they maneuver and swim out brave.
I have known this rush of speed and foam
crashing over the tops of breaking waves.
But lately I prefer to sit and breathe,
and catch some whiffs of my long lost days.