By Robert NeffThe Han River, majestically flowing through Seoul, is the soul of the city. In the past, it was a key part of the transport of goods to the city, but modernization ― first by train and later by automobiles ― has, for the most part, relieved it of that duty. Now it is one of Seoul's primary recreational areas, providing green zones for people to escape the summer heat with picnics, camping, cycling and water activities such as boating, water skiing and swimming.But there is a dark side to the river. In the past, as well as the present, bridges were infamous spots for despondent people to take their own lives. Some people believe that the restless spirits of the dead haunt some sections of the river.Other things, more natural, are said to haunt the river.

The stranding of a whale. Photograph by Edward Vidal, who traveled to Korea and Japan in the 1940s.

In 1928, a newspaper reported that a mysterious creature about two meters long ― was seen swimming in the Han River. There were no further articles, but the rumors of a creature living in the river persists ― albeit they are whispered in amusement ― but several years ago a river policeman quietly remarked that people occasionally reported seeing something mysterious swimming in the water.

According to an information board in the Han River Park, film director Bong Jun-ho claims "he accidentally witnessed a bizarre creature near a bridge of Hangang through the window when he was a high school student." The experience inspired him to direct the box-office hit "The Host" in 2006.Several years ago, when I asked whether or not sea creatures ― such as sharks or whales ― could swim up the river, I was assured that they could not. The strangest things they (the river police) found in the river were old refrigerators and other appliances ― of course, corpses did not need to be mentioned.But what does history say?

The stranding of a whale. Photograph by Edward Vidal, who traveled to Korea and Japan in the 1940s.

In late 1912, villagers living along the Taeryong River ― a tributary of the Chongchon River in Pyong-an province ― were startled to see a large black creature, about 12 meters long, swimming up the river with the high tide. As they watched dumbfounded, there was suddenly a great column of water and the creature then disappeared. The following day, Tomizo Tashiro, a Japanese railroad linesman making his rounds near a railroad bridge, saw a large whale struggling to go down the river as the water rapidly receded at low tide.The whale, trapped in about two meters of water, could not move. Tashiro, realizing the unexpected windfall literally at his feet, was determined to kill the whale before the tide could turn and free it. Taking out his small fowling piece, he shot the whale 18 times, "but the whale seemed to be none the worse in consequence."Realizing he needed help, he ran to the nearest village and convinced some of the villagers, armed with axes, to accompany him to the whale. The water had further receded and the men were able to wade to the whale and "by striking the monster on the head with the axes they at last succeeded in killing it." They probably butchered it nearby and the meat and bones were then sold by Tashiro for nearly 1,000 yen. It is not clear who he sold it to ― but as most whaling operations took place on the other side of the peninsula, he perhaps sold it to the local Japanese community. How much of his windfall made it into the pockets of his Korean accomplices is also unknown.

The stranding of a whale. Photograph by Edward Vidal, who traveled to Korea and Japan in the 1940s.

The stranding of a whale. Photograph by Edward Vidal, who traveled to Korea and Japan in the 1940s.