What to get from KL's pasar malam

These days, apam balik filling might include banana and desiccated coconut. But we still prefer the original – the turnover pancake is sprinkled with chopped peanuts and cooked to a crisp on the griddle. When the sugar starts to caramelise, the apam balik releases an irresistible nutty and sweet aroma. RM1.20 per piece

Durian purists, don’t turn your nose up at this snack just yet. Ordinarily the king of fruits should be enjoyed on its own, but you can’t go wrong with a little innovation now and then – like, for instance, fried durian in a crispy, delicious batter. The flour coating is just thin enough to produce a golden skin while the fruit stays beautifully creamy inside. RM 1.20 per piece

Despite its playful appearance, apam beras is a complex, delicately textured kuih that’s becoming increasingly rare in markets. If you’re packing up a few, top with shredded or desiccated coconut before eating. RM1 for five

The Malaysian version of fruit salad, consisting of raw mangoes, sengkuang, pineapple, cucumber and papaya, tossed in sweet and salty hae ko (shrimp paste). The owner jazzes up the bite-sized ingredients with chopped peanuts and a prawn cracker. Trust us, one cracker is never enough. From RM5

Zaidi’s satay stall is where you want to go for sticky, juicy, charred-at-the-wingtips grilled chicken wings. A word of warning, however: the wings have probably been through a dose of food colouring. RM1 per piece

Stall no. 63 only specialises in one thing, and that’s Korean pancake. Our favourite is the pleasing sour-spicy kimchi iteration (other flavours include mushroom and yellow bean), which is pan-fried to golden, crispy perfection. RM4 for one, RM10 for three

Is it Indian? Is it Malay? The ambiguous origins of kuih peneram (or athirasam in India) are ignored at Kak Som’s stall, where batter is rolled out, filled with palm sugar and fried to a puff. RM1 for ten pieces

This streetside steamboat’s secret weapon is the chilli and peanut sauce. There’s something about dipping our food in a communal hotpot that we love – the joy of parking our butts on the roadside and gorging on a variety of meat skewers. The experience is even better on a rainy day. RM1.50 per skewer

A street snack that’s commonly associated with Taman Connaught pasar malam, the stinky tofu assaults the nose but pleases the palate. You’ll smell it from afar but once you bite into the deep-fried tofu with pickled vegetables, the soft white curd melts on the tongue. Watch out for the sauce that gushes out with every bite. RM3 for four pieces

Despite the presence of other Japanese treats like inari and edamame, Onipon Japan’s biggest draw is perhaps its fluffy homemade rice balls, which are given experimental new fillings like chilli tuna. RM4 each

KL's best night markets

If you’re looking for a dizzying array of dining options, you should look elsewhere. Chow Kit bundle market is all about highly affordable, pre-loved clothing items and accessories like shoes, denim products, leather goods, jackets and T-shirts.

One of the highlights of this pasar malam is the vegetable stall that stocks tomatoes and leafy greens from Cameron Highlands. But what you’re after here is the homemade mini apams with red bean or peanut filling. Did we also mention that the night market’s location (also a hot spot for fireworks-viewing) offers a clear view of the Twin Towers?