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I have been trying to keep ottos in my daughters 10g tank for a while and they keep dying.. the first one I figure was from cycling. The second I wasn't sure what killed him but figured it may have been an overstock issue. Now the tank only has one betta who isn't agressive and a few ramshorns. I got two ottos for her about three weeks ago and the first one died within a week the second just died yesterday. Nitrates were at 10 just before a water change(amonia 0, nitrite0, pH a steady 7.8 for the life of the tank) and I thought he was dead then but when I went to scoop him out he was alive but died the next day. Does anyone else have problems with these fish or any suggestions as to whats happening?If at first you don't suceed, try try again. If that doesn't work call a plumber.

oto's are very sensitive fish .. best placed in tanks that have been established for at least 6 months. too, they may be in generally poor condition when purchased so they're not off to a great start when you buy them.you're never too old to have a happy childhood.

Vicki-- Does the tank have an algea problem? Many people get ottos or other algea cleaners before there is a reason to get them. For ottos to live on algea alone means that there need to be algea in the tank. You can supplament their diets with things like algea discs. However there is nothing cooler than seeing one sucking on a piece of zucchini or apple.

In my experience the key with ottos (besides a stable tank enviroment) is when you purchase them. I prefer to buy young ottos. The smaller the better. THe big thing is to look at their bellies. Are they rounded or flat or shrunken in? If rounded they are healthy and will have a better chance at surviving in your tank.

Also how did they get removed from the tank at the LFS. I have seen people literally rip them off the side of the tank with the net. THis of course can damage them. THere are two ways with which to safely get them to release on their own. With both methods you cover the fish with the net. In method one you gently nudge them and they release. In method two you tickle their bellies and they release.

THe other time the ottos can get hurt is when you net them to put into their new tank there is a way around this. When you get them home pour them gently into a container that has some holes that are plugged up. Put this container into a bucket filled so that the water is 1/4 of the way up the out side of the container. Remove the plugs. Put in fresh tank water. Never fill bucket more than 3/4 of the way up the container. Replace water as neccessary. Do this until you have almost all tank water in the bucket. Quickly remove the container from the bucket letting the water drain out. Transfer container into the tank fish are going into. Allow fish to swim out on their own.

no algae problem aside from a bit of brown algae growing on some of the plastic plants.. I supliment with wafers but they never seem to eat much of them. They may have been damaged at the pet store or by me I will try your transfer method and see how it goes.If at first you don't suceed, try try again. If that doesn't work call a plumber.

there is, imho, a big pat of the problem. the lack of "real" plants. that is what they feed on. everything else is nothing more than a supplement. Without "life" plants the basic component of their diet is gone."I usually read the obituaries first. There is always the happy chance that one of them will make my day." -- Richard Ames

may I suggest banana plants! I have two in my ten with my ottos and they LOVE it. that and some grasses. I would recommend something with leaves or blades so that they can stick on them. good luck Viki! "Most important of all, continue to show deep love for each other, for love covers a multitude of sins" Peter 4:8

Vicki-- If you are interested I need to trim back some of my java fern, and moss. Both are low light, low maintinence plants. PM me if you are interested and we can make arrangements.The following statement is true. The previous statement was false.