Hyland Men’s Hat

January 10, 2019

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Every year, I make my boys a hat for Christmas. They’ve always been various character hats like TMNT, Lion Guard, etc., but at ages 6 and 8, we’ve transitioned out of the Disney Jr phase and into a more mature (ha!) one. Pikachu and Link have replaced Mickey Mouse and Kion, and the boys reach for their simple Walmart slouchies way more often than their Lion Guard hats. (How did they get so old?)

And then there’s little Henry, who doesn’t keep a hat on long enough to make a character hat worth the time or energy. Toddlers, right!?

And then there’s the husband, who has been asking me for a hat for I’m-embarrassed-to-say-how-long. Sorry, babe.

So this year, I went in a different direction and designed a pattern that would work for all of them. It has just the right amount of slouch, and uses a very guy-friendly yarn called Jeans (from Lion Brand). This yarn is soft, heathery, and just looks really good.

Then, I did a little searching online to find some patches for the boys’ hats. The older two are super into the Zelda video game, and I was so pumped to find these Hylian Shield patches online. (Listen to me, throwing around that video game lingo like I actually know what I’m talking about. I don’t.)

I then searched for something Mario-related for little Henry, and found this adorable mushroom patch that I knew he would recognize.

I left my husband’s hat patch-free, but of course, all four of them got Mom’s Yarn + Chai tag sewn on. Gotta represent! (I get my tags from All This Wood on Etsy.)

And for those of you that like to know name origins — I ended up naming this hat the Hyland Slouch because for a while, when my boys would refer to that Hylian Shield, I thought they were saying hy-land instead of hy-lee-an and it just stuck.

Of course, despite its name, this hat isn’t just for the guys. It would make a great girls’ hat, too! (But let’s be honest, girls get a lot more dedicated patterns than guys, right?)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF, which includes sizes toddler – adult large! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)

Hyland Men’s Hat

Finished Sizes (h x w): 8″ x 8″ (toddler), 9″ x 9″ (child), 10″ x 9.5″ (teen/adult small), 10.5″ x 10″ (adult large). Width is measured at the bottom of the ribbing when the hat is laid flat, but the widest part of the hat (near the middle) will be about .5-1″ more.

Yarn Under Single Crochet (YUSC) – this is the same as a regular SC, but with one simple variation. In a regular SC, you insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Single Crochet, you will insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through both loops.

Yarn Under Half Double Crochet (YUHDC) – this is the same as a regular HDC, but with one simple variation. In a regular HDC, you yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Half Double Crochet, you will yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through all three loops.

A Note About Changing Colors:To keep the written pattern simple, I have written it without including color changes (since it would be different for every size). The hat can be made all one color, with 2 or 3 colors (as in my samples), or really with any number of color changes you wish. To change colors, keep the following tips in mind:

To decide where to put your color changes, first decide how many colors you want, then take the finished height of the size you are making and divide it by the number of colors you want to use. So for instance, if I want to make a children’s hat (9″ tall) with 3 colors, I’ll divide 9 by 3 (9/3=3). I know that each color block will be about 3″, so I’ll keep a ruler handy as I work the pattern and I’ll change colors every 3″.

I feel that the cleanest color change happens between two rounds of YUSC (as opposed to YUHDC), so I always placed my color changes at that part of the pattern, wherever it fell closest to the measurements I was going for.

Additional Notes:(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked top-down, in a spiral. Do not join or chain unless instructed.
(3) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen/adult small, adult large]. So, for example, if it says “12 [13, 14, 15]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen/adult small, and adult large instructions, respectively. If there is only one number, it applies regardless of which size you are making. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: The first few rounds will produce a VERY wavy circle. As you work further down the hat, the waves will smooth out. This is how we get that cinched look at the top.

To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 [13,14,15] SC in magic circle. (12 [13, 14, 15])

Round 2: 2YUSC in each ST around. (24 [26, 28, 30])

Round 3: 3YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

Rounds 4-5: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

Rounds 6-8: YUHDC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

Rounds 9-13: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

Rounds 14 – ?: Repeat Rounds 6-13, in order (3 rounds YUHDC, 5 rounds YUSC), until hat measures 6.5 [7.5, 8.5, 9]” tall, then continue to “Base Round” (the beginning of the ribbing section). It does not matter which repeat round you end on.

Base Round: YUSC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first ST of the round. (72 [78, 84, 90])

– – – – – –

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the Base Round with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

– – – – – –

CH7.
Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 6 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Round, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Round. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Round)

The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Round. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Round)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

Rows 5-72 [78, 84, 90]: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Base Round.

Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

Done! If you’re sharing your finished hat on social media, be sure to hashtag #hylandmenshat and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!

I don’t know what I did wrong
I followed the pattern to a tee.
I had to go down to an F hook to meet the gauge and the hate still came out massive. It actually fit my husband. It’s a nice beanie but I don’t know what to do to make it true to the sizing pattern

Lovely pattern! I made 4 this week, they each took about 11 hours of work because I don’t crochet very fast, but it was a good two-day project for each! I’m giving them to some friends from college, and they’re very excited. Great yarn choice, it’s so soft on my hands when I work.

I had the same issue! After working multiple patterns, I have discovered it sometimes takes me a while to understand the varying way our brains see and interpret instructions.
It took me three attempts before I noticed the subtle change in procedure.
Finally completed, I love the end result!
Kim

So, me again. Ha ha. I viewed your video for adding ribbing at the end of a project, and I did as instructed but it just wasn’t right. It was too big and skewed. I viewed another video with the same method except you make the slip stitch in the NEXT 2 base stitches. You make a point of saying the first slip st. should be in the same base stitch in which you started your row.
When I did the next 2 instead, it worked.
Regardless that method is cool, and quick!

Hey Keyth! I think you may have just not watched far enough. On the VERY first slip stitch you do, after coming back down your chain, you slip stitch into the same stitch as well as the next one. After that initial one, though, you’re always going to go into the next two available stitches. I explain it in the video.

Hi. I hope you’re still reviewing your site for questions, because I am stymied.
I am not a novice at crocheting, so it seems odd I don’t know why this is happening: the first stitch of my next row is not in the first stitch of the previous row. At first, it was, but somewhere around row 6 or 7 maybe it wasn’t. I use a stitch marker. Is this basically only one possibility: that somewhere along the way I didn’t make 84 stitches? I have counted the stitches from the marker and stitch 84 is two away from the marker.
Thanks.

So, follow-up: instead of frogging, I decided to decrease two stitches to return to 84. I was placing my marker in the last stitch made, not the first, and I think I was beginning the count for each row…..arghhhh! Never mind lol. No clue. Anyway, we’ll see.

Thanks! I did a decrease (or an increase one or the other) . I realized my mistake: i placed my marker on the last stitch of a row, but when I returned back to it, I accidentally viewed the marker as the first stitch of the row. All good, and literally just now starting the ribbing!

Hi! I was wondering if I use a thicker (like a lot thicker…) piece of yarn, will the gauge change? I was starting on the first row, and I was only able to get 10 sc in the magic circle (I’m doing the largest one btw). Thanks!!!

Yes, definitely. Any time you use a thicker yarn, you will end up with larger finished measurements. Even when using the recommended yarn, you still need to do a gauge check to make sure your tension matches mine 🙂

Hello Rebecca! Thank you for sharing your pattern. I am always in search of men’s hats that look nice and professional. This one is great! My question is about using the yarn under stictches. Is there a particular reason you use this stitch instead of regular SC and HDC? Just curious!

Hi Holly! You don’t connect the rounds (see Note #2). It’s worked in a continuous spiral. So the first stitch of a new round goes right into the top loops of the first stitch from the round before it. No joining or chaining. The hat will be seamless. 🙂

So I’ve been making this using 2 strands of DK, I did a gauge check and changed my hook and rechecked etc, and its huge! Still 90 stitches, I can’t for the life of my figure out why, my tension is the same, followed the gauge. For the base round I did decreases every 8 stitches, and then the ribbing I’m going to miss out a stitch every 9 ribs, and use a size down hook, I hope it makes it tight enough because without the decreases the ribbing didn’t do anything to tighten it.

I believe this hat is only meant to be crocheted with a single strand of DK yarn. Also, the yarn that was used in this pattern, Lion Brand Jeans yarn, is a thinner DK yarn. I find it to be between a 3 and 4. I tried this hat with a thicker DK yarn and it is not working at all. I will have to select a finer yarn in order to get the proper look and drape, not to mention the gauge needed.

I’ve just started the ribbing on my adult size hat but the bottom across measures 13-1/2 inches! It’s huge. I have been consistent with the 90 stitches and my stitching is very tight. What’s wrong? Will a smaller hook on the ribbing make enough difference?

I did not the first time so did after reading your question. My swatch measured 4.5 so I restarted another hat with an I hook. Making the adult men’s size. I’m halfway through and it is measuring 12.5 in the middle. Just not working. I also crochet very tightly. Is this the size you made for your husband pictured above? The 90 stitches seem like a lot when there are no decreases.

Hi Kalah, did you do another gauge check with the I hook before you started? If your J hook was 13.5″ wide and your I hook is 12.5″ wide, it sounds like you need to go down to an H. You may feel like you crochet tightly, but your gauge swatch suggests that I crochet even tighter. It’s not wrong, it’s just different. That’s why we have gauge checks 😉 (And yes, my husband is wearing the adult large.)

Thank you for this pattern! I am a new crocheter, and this is the first hat I have made. It will be put back for one of my teen nephews for Christmas. I found your directions well written and easy to follow, and I appreciated the link to the ribbing tutorial. Thanks so much!