Tenganan Art Textiles

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Tenganan

Ikat

In the ancient, ritualistic (Bali Aga) society of
Tenganan Pegeringsingan, the God Indra is honored as the creator of the first
human beings and, at the same time, as the divine designer of a category of
magical fabrics which are among the most spectacular ever produced by the
textile art of Southeast Asia. The geringsing Ikat of Tenganan, as they are
called, have made this east Balinese ritual community famous the world over
among textile technologists.

The Geringsing of Tenganan are produced by what is known
as the double ikat method, a technique in which resist patterns are applied to
both warp and weft threads before weaving, so that the final pattern appears
only on completion. This extremely demanding and time-consuming process is
known in only three places in the world: Japan, India and Indonesia while in
the entire Indonesian archipelago it is practiced only in this tiny village.

The most striking and characteristic feature of all
Geringsing is their muted coloring - combining red and reddish-brown tones,
eggshell and dark blue or black violet. These are obtained by dyeing or
cross-dyeing with pigments obtained from outer layers of the sunti root
(Morinda citrifolia) and with taum (indigo). A certain uniformity in appearance
is also due to the fact that the cloths are woven without exception, in
loose tabby from cotton yarns. Their “ rustic “ texture as compared with silk
fabrics of Balinese provenance is further emphasized by the way all of the
motifs are built up out of tiny rectangles (due to the way patterning is
produced by both thread systems together) and by the fact that the structure
and the architecture of the motives extends over the entire surface of the
cloths, producing patterns of great pictorial charm.

Gringsing possess the Magical power to ward of the harm
wrought by natural and supernatural enemies, and to confer invulnerability on a
bearer of arms..............They also serve to preserve the purity on which the
existence of the village and its community depend.............By virtue of
their magical qualities, they are not only capable of keeping impurities and
danger out of the village, but also actively shield a human being from threats
and baleful influences................