F eature Story

Hip, Historic Murfreesboro

Really Is the Heart of Tennessee

By Tina Wright

N
estled smack dab in the geographic center of Tennessee, just 34 miles
south of Nashville, sits the historic haven-cum-college town of
Murfreesboro. The Battle of Stones River, one of the bloodiest
conflicts of the Civil War (with nearly 25,000 casualties), was fought
right here. Now part of the National Park system, Stones River
National Battlefield is a must-visit for anyone with an interest in
history. If you come, plan to spend at least two hours visiting the
museum and taking the self-guided tour of the battlefield. Civil War
history aside, Murfreesboro is probably best known as the home of
Middle Tennessee State University, one of the state’s largest and most
renowned institutes of higher learning—and its sprawling campus is
well worth a look. But those two landmarks are just the tip of all
that Murfreesboro has to offer: Visitors will also find some of the
finest eateries, shops and craftspeople in the state, many of them
located on the town’s Historic Square.

The Square is anchored by the Rutherford County Courthouse. An
architectural gem built in 1858, it’s one of only seven pre-Civil War
courthouses left in the state and a great place to start your
exploration of the historic district. From there, you can’t go wrong
if you stroll down Main Street—many of the town’s most diverse and
delectable offerings can be found here and on surrounding
streets—especially if you are hungry.

Simply Pure Sweets, a bakery and
café that recently celebrated its first anniversary, offers a variety
of sandwiches, fresh sides and other light fare. Or, indulge with a
loaded biscuit, like the chorizo and cheddar, or the bacon and
pepper-jack. Visitors will want to save room for dessert: “The
croissants, cinnamon rolls and French macarons are all popular
choices,” says owner Chantell Kennedy-Shehan.

Marina’s on the Square has been a Murfreesboro dining staple for
nearly 25 years and is a can’t-miss choice for lunch or dinner. Its
concept is simple—delicious and uncomplicated Italian comfort food
offered in a setting that feels like home. Diners will find the menu
loaded with traditional Italian favorites, including a large selection
of pizzas and calzones.

If you’re craving barbecue, go directly to Slick Pig BBQ: Pulled pork,
chicken, brisket—and of course ribs—are all on the menu here. Regulars
rave about the smoked wings. And be sure to order a fried pickle with
dip on the side.

When it comes to the Historic Square area, you’ll come for the dining
indulgences…and stay for the shopping. As you step under the cheery
striped awning and enter the Country Gourmet, you’ll find yourself in
the midst of one of the region’s premier gift and gourmet food
purveyors. Inside the Main Street store, visitors can find anything
from limited edition Christmas ornaments to chocolate-dipped
strawberries—when they’re in season.

The store’s diverse wares invite
leisurely browsing, whether your weakness is olive oil, honey or
kitchen accessories. Lush gift baskets are one of the shop’s
trademarks; select a premade basket or customize your own with a
variety of collectible items and/or tasty treats. And don’t forget the
sweets. “The chocolates are probably what most people think of when
you say ‘the Country Gourmet,’” says Chris Gerbman, whose wife, Karen
Gerbman, is the owner. “We carry some of the finest chocolatiers and
truffletiers in America.”

If handmade, one-of-a-kind furniture and décor is what you’re after,
Vntg Handcrafted has what you need. The woodworking shop and studio is
known for its custom builds and features vintage materials repurposed
into modern furniture. You’ll find pieces with a modern, industrial
feel, as well as farmhouse-style furniture and artistic pieces
embellished with stained glass. Select your own piece of wood and the
Vntg artisans can bring the custom furnishing you dream of to life.

Other historic district highlights include Funtiques, a furniture and
décor consignment shop with an eclectic mix of antiques and new goods;
Sugaree’s, a clothing boutique featuring both local artisans and
trendsetting national brands like B.B. Dakota; and Murfreesboro
institution the Past Time Barber Shop and Pool Hall, which has been
around for an amazing 112 years! As the name implies, customers can
get a cut, shave and/or trim, and play a free game of pool.

Want to extend your experience overnight? Just a few blocks from the
Square is the picturesque Carriage Lane Inn, which also provides event
spaces and catering.

Though Murfreesboro has much to offer, its biggest draw seems to be
its blend of creative and cosmopolitan offerings in a relatively
bucolic setting. Says Kennedy-Sheehan, “Murfreesboro is a small town
and a big one at the same time. The diversity of the population and
the welcoming feeling…is astounding.” And Gerbman adds, “Even though
it has more than 150,000 people living in its city limits, it still
manages to have a warm and welcoming small-town vibe. It’s populated
with our family and friends…some we just haven’t met yet.”