Tony Papas, for giving us the Bayswater Brasserie and The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay; and for following these with Allpress Coffee and Brasserie Bread.

The Sydney Morning Herald Silver Service Award

Beverley Wood at Ristorante Riva, for continuing service that is at once familiar, friendly, passionate and professional.

The Good Food Guide Sommelier Award

Nick Hildebrandt from Marque and Moog Wine + Food, for the thoughtfulness of wine lists that see beyond show-off wines to those with real flavour; and for delivering the wines in style.

The Josephine Pignolet Award

Jacqueline Bourke, from Sean's Panaroma, wins this award for young chefs. It includes a Qantas return trip to Europe, a set of Furitechnics knives and a cash bonus from Sydney chefs to enable her to take a study trip overseas.

In memoriam

Anders Ousback

MG Garage

What the hats mean

One hat

Exceptionally good and highly recommended, serving food that either is a great example of its style or attains unusual highs.

Two hats

Truly special food, with a magic to the space (even if it's simple) and great service.

Three hats

The ultimate. Benchmark restaurants that defy the imagination by making superlative food that is served by incredible waiters.