THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES Sorriso Restaurant Review

: A decade has passed since restaurateur Ian Just opened the French bistro he named for the facial muscles used in smiling. Les Zygomates is now a fixture in the Leather District; its lesser-known sibling, two doors down, is a trattoria whose moniker is the Italian word for smile. While Sorriso's urbane interior design augments the downtown cred supplied by its location, it still maintains a warm glow; likewise, while the cuisine is hardly home-style, it's plenty hearty. Chef John G. Paine’s antipasti and pastas are especially successful, their ingredients richly harmonious (and he also has a way with oxtail); though generally we’re less enthusiastic about the secondi piatti---we’d just as soon have bistro-style dishes at Les Zyg---they’re certainly adequate and well-matched to the mid-range wine list. Still, best of all may be the breads, winningly baked in-house.