Homemade Boost control at it's finest...

Hi all, not many people know me because I'm rarely here. However I was compelled to post up my homebrew staged boost controller. Let face it, we're all here becuase the most of us are cheap/broke speed junkies. I'm always on the look out for a good deal or creatively cheap way of doing things.

My car has traction problems (like most FWD chassis turbo cars do)... 6~7psi most of the time will burn down 1st and 2nd gears without careful roll on throttle application, any higher boost than that makes my first 2 gears useless period. This is on a decent suspension, a Quaife LSD, and BFG DR's. I've always wanted some way to control boost over speed/gear, but short of buying a AVC-R or doing some in depth electronics work that prolly won't happen.

I figured why not make myself some sort user of selectable MBC(s)? So with a trip to the spare parts bucket I cobbled together a little 3 stage selectable boost controller that runs W/G spring in the first stage and MBC settings on stages 2 and 3. Total cost on the whole rig was about $40....cheap enough I suppose. The majority of that cost for me stemed from the "Grainger" valves that I purchased to use as ball/spring MBC's($9/per). Also I purchased a shift **** with 4 buttons intergrated into it from the local Autozone for $15 on sale...I've seen them for this much online as well. Your own MBC's can be whatever you having laying around/purchased but they have to be ball/spring type. ** Vacuum bleed type will not work with the diagrams I have provided. I can however produce a diagram that will work, but it will be much more complex than the current design.**

The basic principle I designed this setup around was to allow me to run multiple stages of boost without having to fumble for switches or take my hands far from the steering wheel/shifter.

The "Grainger" valves used in my setup fit perfectly on the honda/acura purge control solenoid. They can be purchased at your local Grainger store if you can find someone with a commercial account, they don't sell to the public(part # 5z763). If you are unable to do this McMaster carries the same pressure relief valve, part # 48935K25. They sell online to anyone. Both will need a { 1/4" female pipe --> 1/8" barbed hose } fitting.

The fitting and "Grainger valve" looks like this -->

The real deal for your visual learners

Here is a diagram for ease of assembly.

The shift **** I spoke of earlier...really made things come together well. It is basically a 4 button wireless transmitter with a brain box the has the 4 outputs. It's a cheap peice but works none the less. You may need to do some relay/electrical tomfoolery depending on your own designs. I'm happy to provide diagrams of my own setup or help if there is interest.

No real need, as long as you've tuned properly up to the maximum amount of boost you'll be running you should be fine. I've used a generic MBC to adjust the boost from W/G spring(6~7psi) to 20psi, making sure to correct the fuel map in the ECU along on the way at each boost range. Takes time when doing it solo but it works. I run a real-time programmable ECU with a seperate Wideband/Datalogging setup that allows me to do this. For those of you without such tools, I'd suggest a proper dyno tune for the entire range of boost your car will run.

Thats pimp however the shifter reminds me too much of fnf, maybe cuzz its from vatozone. If there was a way to hook it up to the speed sensor, you would be able to control boost dependant on gear selected. That would rip and it would be "hands free". hmmmmmmmmmm i have ideas runing in my head now...

my point is that it is still not fully tuned, all that does is adjust the a/f ratios...

What do you mean You tune the car for the amount of boost you are running.He is doing this to limit the boost down low for traction control?That is pretty slick setup I'm impressed by the simple yet very functional setup.