Note 1: since the Moon color map is not free, I do not upload the original file to Github, the version at Github is only a lower resolution version that you can find on the web.

Note 2: the final output STL posted to Thingiverse is generated from a higher resolution images (5760 x 2880).

Step 5: Improvement 2: Clear Lithophane Details

The projected color map details in my previous Moon lamp model is a little bit too blurry, the color map have many meteor crater and river details but all are blurred.

The blurry should be caused by hiding all color map details in model inside.

The above 2 pictures, first one is a Moon lithophane with detail side facing up, second one is the same lithophane facing down. The second picture is much blurry, this example can demonstrate lithophane details should not all hided inside.

Step 6: Improvement 2: Clear Lithophane Details (Continue)

As mentioned before, the surface is modeling from Moon bump map. Now we also want part of color map details on the surface, how can we do that?

I have tried many methods to make it, Some are very complicated.

Finally I found the best one, it also a simple one. It simply just add two image value together, here are the processing steps in GIMP:

Desaturate the color map

Invert the color map

Shift the color map color levels to lower half (from 0-255 to 0-127)

Insert a bump map layer

Also shift the bump map color level to lower half

Set the bump map layer mode to "Addition"

Export the result image in PNG format

After combine the 2 maps you can clearly see the meteor crater and river details. But the side effect is when you turn off the light you can see some distraction details on the Moon surface.

Note: I also tried "Multiply" 2 map layers, the color map details are little bit better than "Addition" but much distracting the Moon surface details.

Step 7: Improvement 3: Better 3D Modeling Method

In my previous model, I am using the BanateCAD original BiParametric modeling method. It divide the sphere with the latitude and longitude and then divide each grid cell into 2 triangle faces. This method is simple and straight forward but the problem is the face density near 2 poles is much more than the place around the equator. It will introduce 2 problems:

inefficient of modeling (the pole area no need that much faces but eating most of your computer resources)

unbalance details when you need rotate and planar cut the sphere

So I have written a new modeling method in BanateCAD using refined Icosahedron.

As you can see at the above 2 pictures icosahedron model is more efficient for spherical modeling.

Step 8: Improvement 4: Material Light Transmittance & Color Variance

For 3D print a Moon Lamp, I can say print it with white material.

However, not all white 3D printing materials are the same, especially on light transmittance and also some sort of color variance. The above picture show 1 plain PLA and 5 white PLA from different vendors. Which one is the best is very subjective, but lesser color variance should be better. Higher light transmittance require thicker shell but have better grayscale level; Lower light transmittance require thinner shell and can save some printing material.

The Moon lamp printed in this instructables is using the bottom right one, no notable color variance and lowest light transmittance.

Note: if you have more than 1 type of material, you can make a similar test with the attached STL

Attachments

Step 9: Improvement 5: Overhang Support

Usually I am not generate support while 3D printing, the print result as you can see on the above first picture. The upper part cannot print all the shadow details without generate support. It is because part of the upper part shadow details is overhang, 3D printer cannot print something in the air so simply skipped those details.

In order to print a better shadow details at the upper part, the Moon model should planar cut a part at the bottom and then use that hole area generate support for the upper part.

Step 10: Improvement 6: Light Source

This time I have tried 2 portable light source and 1 USB light source.

First one is a cup bottom decoration light, usually it use at night club or bar. The PCB is only 28 mm in diameter and powered by a tiny CR1620 battery. Limited from the battery power, the LED light is not so bright but it should be good enough for a 2-3 inches Moon model.

Second one is a 120 mm ball light, I disassembled the ball cover and will replace it with a 5 inches Moon model. It use rechargeable battery, much brighter LED light and can remote control the light color and brightness.

Third one is a USB powered desktop wood lamp base, it can mount a 150 mm ball shape lampshade on it.

Note 2: The shadowFactor is the most arbitrary parameters, it depends on the light transmittance of your material and the brightness of your light source. Normally it can be 4 - 8, if you print with plain PLA (not white color), it can be 10 or more.

Note 3: the final output STL posted to Thingiverse is generated by parameters refinementLevel=288

Step 13: Process 3: Rotate & Planar Cut

In most case, there are a place to install the light source, so you usually require a planar cut at the bottom. In order to view the entire familiar Moon face, it is better to rotate Z-axis 30-45 degree before the planar cut.

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28 Discussions

Hi there, thanks so much for this super amazing instructable and design work! I am only about a year into this 3D printing world, and sometimes find the tools challenging. This is the first attempt to use 3D Builder, pretty horrible tool in my opinion, as neither the grid or the rotation tool handles are labeled at all! I spent an hour last night attempting to find the correct rotation of the 5" model in order to cut the bottom, but even with your pictures, a picture of the moon, and a printed 4" model in my hand it's still very difficult to tell if you are at the right rotation. In your instructions, you mention both 30 and 45 degrees, the photo shows 135 degrees, and in 3D Builder it's completely unclear where you are. Can you please provide a little more info on the rotation angle selection (for typical perspective) and how to drive this tool (or a better one!) into doing it?! Thanks so much! By the way, any quick answer now prior to a longer one later would be much appreciated, I'm struggling with this at the moment. --Scott

Hi ajahan03, I have tried post at eBay, but seems eBay not easy allow new member to sell product. You may leave your address to my inbox, I can direct mail one wood lamp base to you. What is the maximum size can you print? You may print a large one to me instead of pay me the money ;>