Water Grill Restaurant Review

: Opened in 1991, Water Grill has long dominated the Los Angeles restaurant scene, especially in regard to seafood. Over the years the kitchen has been overseen by such notable chefs as Michael Cimarusti (Providence) and David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite). But this is not your father's Water Grill. The upscale menu and décor have transitioned to a more fun, democratic approach. The room is less stuffy; the central bar now sports ten beer taps and flat-screen TVs, while the comfortable booths offer more privacy. Justin Albertson (Perch, Whist) runs the kitchen under the guidance of executive chef Damon Gordon, who also oversees the Santa Monica location. The tempting market-style raw bar remains on display; choose from more than a dozen oyster varieties or indulge in one of the iced shellfish platters. Clam chowder and a supremely light blue crab cake can still be found among the appetizers alongside beautifully presented ceviches and raw crudos such as salmon and big eye tuna. Dinner offerings may include a selection of whole fish grilled or oven roasted, sustainable Chilean sea bass, and Scottish salmon that works well with smoked bacon and cipollini onions. Carnivores could try the charcoal grilled chicken or Prime rib-eye, but really, Water Grill’s raison d’être is fish. There's even sea salt in the satisfying caramel bread pudding! The sixteen-page wine list focuses on American wines but there are also international selections as well as craft cocktails. Also located at 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310-394-5669.