Tuesday, January 18, 2011

A few years ago, a friend was visiting Toronto and found a Cajun store. He had grown up in Louisiana, so he called me, thrilled that he had discovered a source in the Northeast for some of his favorite Cajun ingredients. And yes, on hand were plenty of Cajun spices, store-made gumbos, and alligator meat. But the one thing this store didn’t have was boudin—a Cajun sausage that you also can’t find in New York.

“No boudin?” I said. “That’s a shame. Perhaps I should just try to make it myself.”

It took me a while, but five years later I finally did.

Boudin (also spelled boudain), if you’re not familiar with it, is a sausage that’s stuffed with pork, liver, rice, and a host of aromatics and spices. It’s what fuels road trips heading east on I-10 from Houston into Louisiana, as almost every gas station worth its salt will have poached or smoked boudin on hand, ready for snacking.

After you fill up the tank and stretch your legs, you grab a link, lean against the counter and squeeze the sausage until the filling oozes out the end, like toothpaste out of a tube. You take a big bite, wash it down with a cold beverage and continue eating until nothing but the casing remains. (The casing, which most don’t eat, is thrown away.) Of course, there are some fastidious types who prefer to eat boudin with a knife and a fork, but where’s the fun in that?
While it’s a Cajun dish, boudin is also found in Southeast Texas where the cultures of Louisiana and Texas collide. I’m partial to boudin that’s found at gas stations, but you can also buy it at meat markets, seafood shops, and grocery stores. You’ll seldom see it at proper sit-down restaurants, however, as boudin is regarded as stand-up, on-the-go food. And that’s probably why you don’t see it outside the Southeast Texas/Louisiana region, as even though there may be Cajun restaurants, boudin is not usually part of their repertoire. This used to upset me, but it’s no longer an issue since I’ve learned that the best boudin can be made at home.

The basic recipe for boudin is a mix of finely diced cooked pork, chicken or pig’s liver, rice, bell pepper, celery, green onions, parsley and cayenne. From that base you can tailor it any way you wish. I like to add a bunch of jalapeños to mine, and I know people who will throw in some shrimp and crawfish, too. Boudin is usually poached though you can smoke it, as well.

Making a batch of boudin is a snap—the most difficult part of the process is stuffing it into the casing. Though if you don’t have a sausage stuffer, you can still eat the filling as a dressing, or whip up a batch of boudin balls, which are rolled portions of the filling that have been dipped in crushed crackers and fried.

Now, while I associate boudin with quick stops on the road, it’s also mighty fine for home eating. It’s terrific to serve to friends when you’re watching the big game, and at holidays, my family has been known to add it to our festive buffet. But no matter when or where you eat boudin, know that you’re in for a spicy filling treat.

Method:
Place the pork shoulder, celery, onion, garlic and bell pepper into a large pot. Cover with 2 inches of water, bring to a boil and then turn down the heat and simmer uncovered for 1 hour. After an hour, add the chicken liver to the pot and continue to cook for 45 more minutes or until the pork is tender.

Strain the meat and vegetables, reserving the liquid. Finely dice the meat and vegetables with a knife, in a food processor or in a meat grinder set for a coarse grind. Once diced, place meat and vegetables in a bowl.

Add to the bowl the cooked rice, jalapeños, thyme, oregano, paprika, green onions and parsley. Stir in 1 cup of the reserved cooking liquid and combine until the filling is moist and slightly sticky. If it appears too dry, add more of the reserved liquid. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding salt, pepper and cayenne.

To make boudin sausage, stuff into casing (see below for instructions) and then poach in boiling water for 10 minutes.

Alternatively, you can either serve the filling as a dressing, or you can roll it into walnut-sized balls, dip into finely crushed crackers and fry in 350 degree oil for 2 minutes or until brown to make boudin balls.

Yield: about 12 sausages or 5 cups of filling

Note: If you have any concerns about cooking the chicken livers in the pork pot, by all means you can cook the livers separately, and then mix them with the cooked pork and other pot vegetables when you dice them or run them through the food processor.

Method:
First, rinse the outside of the casing and then place it in a bowl of water for 30 minutes to soften. Drain the soaking water and then rinse the inside of the casing by placing one end on the kitchen faucet, turn the water on low and allow it to flow through the casing. The casing will blow up like a balloon—this is fine.

Lightly oil the stuffing horn on your sausage stuffer with vegetable oil. Tie a knot at one end of the casing. Take the other end and gently slide the entire casing onto the horn, leaving the knot plus an additional 4 inches hanging off the end of the horn.

Place the filling into the feeder and push it through until it starts to fill the casing. Go slowly at first and note that you’ll need to massage the casing as the meat goes through it so it fills the casing evenly.

Once you’ve filled the casing, to form links, pinch it every 5 inches and then twist it until it’s secure. You can then cut the casing to form individual sausages.

Before boiling or grilling, poke holes into the casing to get rid of air bubbles and to keep the sausage from bursting.

i love boudin. we used to get ours at the butcher where they had it poaching in a crockpot behind the counter. i didn't know that you squeezed it out. we always ate the sausage, casing and all, on the drive back home from the butcher...then race to get to the frig for an icy coke after all the yummy spiciness.

I'm starting to realize that I will never be able to leave east Texas if I can't get this kind of thing in the rest of the U.S. Four years of college in the Mexican-food desert that is the American Midwest was bad enough. I can't do without Mexican and Cajun!

About the chicken livers, can you blanch it first, before adding it to the pork to cook? I often cook liver separately because the water gets bitter and according to your recipe, you're saving the broth from the cooked pork. So it's ok to just add in the liver and cook it with the pork? BTW, there's nothing like a poached boudin with some Tabasco and a squeeze of lemon! (salivating as I think about it)

You are awesome. I was cooking at an event in New Orleans a few years ago and some of Emeril's chefs made boudin for me; boudin balls too. Couldn't get enough of it. I've been meaning to try it myself for quite a while. Thanks for the push!

I live in Southwest LA and have spent many an afternoon with That Man makes stops along what we like to call "The Great Southwest LA Boudin Trail". Some of the best memories ever! I'm going back home to Texas this weekend to spend time with my GFs from high school and one of them just happens to be the granddaughter of Nick - the man behind Nick's boudin from Pt. Arthur.

Thank you. I stumbled across your blog from another food blog (Bluebonnets & Brownies) and this was what I saw first. God Bless you. This instantly brought back childhood memories road trips to Lake Charles or Baton Rouge. Boudin is just something that can't be found in California. Just like Blue Bell Ice Cream and Slovacek sausage. Now I'm homesick and hungry. Gee, thanks.

OMG this sounds good! For years I've made sausage patties or balls - anything to avoid stuffing a casing. Your post has me fired up and ready to tackle my first attempt with a new KA stuffing attachment.

Sooo happy to see a boudin recipe that seems doable for me - Always loved the stuff, but can't handle a lot of spiciness. When hubby and I travel to Texas and back, we always stop at Don's Quality Meats to get their great cracklins to munch on. Thanks again for a great post!

Faced with the same problem of not finding good boudin in Austin, I just bought some casings to make some, so you're recipe comes at a perfect times(as they usually do!).Saltines, boudin, and hot sauce is where it's at!(Now if only Shipley's Donuts would get there boudin kolaches up here!)

I am so going to have to try and make this. We have our parents send us care packages of frozen smoked boudin from back home in Louisiana. With Zapps -- I eat mine with Zapps (or any brand of Hot Chips if I can find them). We have a set up here, though. A friend has a sausage press and built his own smoker. His grandmother made boudin when he was a kid so I'm sure we could get going on some!

We get our boudin from Green's Sausage House 10 miles east of Temple, TX. AKA Zabcikville. Very good grilled or baked. Having lived in Nacogdoches for four years (Axe 'em!) I fell in love with Mr. Wills' Restaurant that serves boudin balls with a gooey cheesy center! Miss those things!!

Growing up in Houston and later Louisiana, my Dad would heat up a link of boudin for us to snack on while he taught me my way around the kitchen. We always ate it on saltines with a few drops of Louisiana Red or Tabasco. Now I am a temporary Okie and for the Super Bowl last year I had a Cajun feast in honor of my Saints - the boudin was the biggest hit of the party, even for my dear Okie friends who aren't very adventurous eaters. We do have a great little Cajun market here, but now I can't wait to try making my own! Thanks so much for sharing!

Also, thanks for giving me an excuse to buy the sausage attachment for my mixer!

I live in California, and sadly "real boudin" is no longer available here. CA Health Code disallows the placing of cooked items in an uncooked casing prior to it being sold, so the provider we used to buy it from has decided to only offer the 'stuffing' for sale in bulk form.

The bulk boudin I'm purchase I use for stuffing chickens or pork chops, and I also make it into patties for cooking. The formed patties are chilled until firm, then dredged in flour, coated in egg wash, and rolled in bread crumbs and pan fried in olive oil. The difference is the meat and rice in the bulk boudin is completely cooked, so it can simply be pan fried and be safe to eat.

There are a few providers that DO sell boudin in link form, but it is completely uncooked (with the exception of the rice, which is cooked and cold stuffed).

These links have to be cooked prior to eating as if they are simply a raw product. I typically place them in a covered frying pan with a small amount of water and cook them for 15-20 minutes over a medium heat, turning occasionally. I then pour off any remaining water, and return the pan to the stove, add a few tablespoons of olive oil, cover the pan and cook about 15 minutes longer, turning once or twice.

I've made venison sausage for a while and it is so yummy...I seriously need some of that Boudin in my life. It may mean that I have to go on a road trip this spring, but well, if that's the only way....

I love road food, my very favorite being 7-11 Conch fritters in the Florida Keys...

I've always been partial to DJ's Boudain (even going so far as to stock up on it ever time we visit home...we have a freezer full of the stuff). I don't care much for the MSG in it though. This post makes the whole process of making your own (MSG free) boudain seem much less threatening. I hope you post about pistolettes soon too.

I was born in Texas, and have lived here all my life except for a 4 year stint in Morgan City, La. in the early 80's. Even though the new state was very different from my Houston- area upbringing, I quickly fell in love with the people, the food, and the unique customs of South Louisiana.Boudin was an acquired taste, but one I will never "un-acquire"!!

Hon, you can always fake sausage casing by taking good plastic wrap and rolling the meat in it, then knotting the ends (or not, it just has to stay rolled). If you put it in the steamer basket, it does the job just fine. Learned this quite awhile ago making chicken oscar wrapped around the asparagus and crab filling. . . .

Your sausage will come out the right shape, you just take off the plastic wrap. Of course, those concerned about plastic could probably get the same results with some parchment paper and a little intense origami.

Boudin balls are definitely where it's at. The "Campus Corner" gas station across from my old high school makes them with a little cube of American cheese tucked in the center, so you get an awesome melted cheese bonus when you bite in! My Panhandle-born college roomie loved when I'd bring some back after a trip home to Buna.

Hi Lisa,Just read about you in the Dallas Morning News. Congratulations and Way to Go!Being Born in Texas I know the Pride you have for the Lone Star State.I am so glad I read about your adventure as it afforded me another amazing "WOMAN" to follow.I too have a love of many things and as a retired School Principal I am finally finding the time to pursue my Creative Side.<ay you have a SMILEY Week.....Hugs...Deb Savianodebsaviano.blogspot.com

I was born in Beaumont, raised in Baton Rouge and Houston, so I've made that trip down the boudin corridor countless times. No trip is complete without stopping at Don's for boxes of boudin. We grill it until the outside is crispy and eat the whole thing. Magnificent, thanks for sharing and I look forward to reading more of your stuff!

Lisa, you CAN get boudin, both blanc and noir, here in NYC. Go to Saulmeria Biellese (http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/) It's on the corner of Eighth Ave. and Twenty-ninth St. They have a fantastic selection of charcuterie, and their Italian combo sandwich, with house-made meats, is great (except for the substandard bread).

As a Homesick Louisianian in Germany, I've been missing the one kind of sausage you can't get over here. I somehow never imagined you could make this at home; I pictured the recipe being handed down over the years in some sort of secret ceremony, never to be shared with us common folk. Some of my best memories are of driving to the meat market on Saturday mornings for links of hot boudin and packages of saltines that we would scarf down in the car on the way back home. Thank you so much for providing me with a taste of home.

I've tried many times to duplicate Nick's boudin without success. It always comes out good, but missing something ... We have always eaten it on saltine crackers with Tabasco sauce. At my house, nobody ever gets the privilege of having a whole link to themselves. :)

@ Lisa - I think the reason you took it out of the casing is maybe you were only getting Boudin out of SE TX? If so, they have a real rubbery casing as opposed to South Louisiana where they use a very natural and 'snappy' casing.

May I suggest you visit http://boudinlink.com/ . They have all the great places listed and then some. I try to hit up a new place every time I take a long drive down I-10

I work about a quarter of a mile from Don's Quality meats and Best Stop in Scott, LA. right off of I-10. Both are famous for their boudin and cracklins but I still want to try this recipe. My favorite way to eat it is either grilled or squeezed out of the casing onto fresh white Evangeline Maid bread with alot of yellow mustard.

I was also incredibly disappointed in the pickings at the single "cajun" restaurant found in Lincoln, NE. There were plenty of stereotypical meals that are subpar, but absolutely no boudin.

About 6 months ago I convinced some local friends that we from SE Texas and SW Louisiana know what good food is, and that we needed to have a boudin making party. We based our recipe off of Donald Link's from his book Real Cajun.

We used natural casings, as Ragin'Cajun suggests, and I assure you it's better than a lot of the manufactured casings that you'll find at some road side stops along I-10.

Once we finished the final grind on our force meat, and I gave it a taste, it was like being back home. Some white bread and French's mustard to top it off. I don't know if I'll ever not make my own boudin again. It's an awesome night of fun, though incredibly difficult if you're attempting to stuff it through a hand fed funnel.

I'm a desperate Creole in NJ craving boudin and boudin balls. I wouldn't even know where to begin to find sausage cassings and a meat grinder here. I would love to make it for my northern family as I'm the only 1 born and raised in Houston, TX. My entire family in Louisiana laughs at me for the money I spend shipping it from Louisiana, but I would love to be able to make it

Great recipe! I'm in baton rouge and am making 50 lbs of boudin this weekend. Only thing i do different is to put my casings on the stuffer tube before tying the end knot. This way you are not fighting air build up in the casings.

I moved away from houston to baltimore and you will never find boudain here... I have been craving boudain with ranch dressing for FOREVER Thank goodness i just found this recipe... I am sooo going to try it!! My mouth was watering as i read the article and recipe!! Lmbo... If you're into trying new things... Try some fried pickle chips too!! THE BOMB! (cant you tell that i'm hungry right now?!)

I live in Southeast Louisiana and we can buy Boudin everywhere/anywhere. Many restaurants serve it to. I have been wanting to make some of my own for a while. My 10 year old daughter will hardly eat anything. She will tear up the smoked boudin though. Your recipe actually looks like it would taste pretty close to the commercial brand we buy at the grocery. Really need to give this a try.

i love this post. i have missed boudin since i moved from tx. my husband and i mention it at least once a month. i am going to attempt my own thanks to you. bringing boudin to kentucky -- bourbon & boudin!

I just got back from a very successful wild hog hunt in SW Alabama. I've made brats with the hog meat before, but wanted to try my hand at boudin this go round. I found your recipe and doubled it with wild hog shoulders. Everything turned out delicious. I'll be stuffing the casings tomorrow. Thanks for the easy-to-follow recipe.

Mmm. I'm from Lafayette, LA. Born and raised and it wasn't until I lived in Alaska for a few months did I realize how rare boudin is. The people here have never even heard of it. I miss it so much. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you so much!!

Thank you soooooooo much!! My Texan heart has missed my beloved boudain and saltines since I've moved to Germany....found suitable crackers, now I have this recipe. Can't wait to try it out on my German husband and American/German boys!!!!Rachael

Bacically the same as Czech Jternici (liver sausage).... we don't add all the vegies, just garlic, sesonings and we only use pork liver with the pork. At one time we did use the parts of the pig we would not use now, like the head, the organs, liver, kidneys, lungs extra skin. We placed it all in a big pot with water and garlic, onions celery and cook until the meat fell from the head. Ground it up, some use barley or rice. bread as fillers.. we did not..Stuffed it in casings, at one time with a cut off end cows horn.

Jalapeno in Boudain? Never heard of it.Around here we use red pepper, and you can generally tell how hot the sausage is by the redness in the casing,mild having no red color at all, to very red which hurts my stomach!But, boudain is like gumbo. Everybody thinks theirs is the best, and everything you add changes the taste.Worst I ever had, was good.

Thanks for this recipe. I will attempt it soon. Boudain is something I found in the grocery store here in the Dallas suburbs, and my 15 year-old son and I now regularly have it for evening snack. I just passed this blog post on to a friend of mine back home in Sweden who is an avid amateur sausage maker. You may hear back how the experiment works out half way around the world.

i was introduced to boudin by a friend on fb. i ordered some and have loved it ever since. but im in maryland and we dont have it here and ordering it can become expensive. i do believe this is going to be a blessing

Great recipe man. I'm dutch and i learned about boudain when i lived in Alabama. There you can buy it by the two in a pack at Walmart. We used to cut them open en heat it up in a skillet then heat some wraps also from walmart then spread some on the wrap little hot sauce, some shredded cheese,roll it up to a pouch then ENJOY........one is never enough

Wow! What great memories from all the posts. I am also from the south. Born in Beaumont Tx, raised in Orange Tx, all my family are from Louisisna New Iberia, Erath, lafayette, Lake Charles man the cuisine is Excellent greatest Aromas arround the Holidays. Missing Home. Now living in cali. No Boudain anywear. I got to make this soon. Thanks alot

I went to Texas last month and had my first taste of Boudain...ended up bringing some home in my suitcase (along with a 13# brisket frozen rock solid)...can't wait to try this recipe becos here in Wisconsin boudain and brisket are not to be found anywhere lol

The best thing in the history of the world is smoked boudin. The casing becomes crispy and delicious, unlike the rubbery version resulting from other cooking methods. Give it a try and experience sausage nirvana!

All the way in Scotland from Texas and I am IN LOVE with your site.... Pancake syrup here is $6.50 USD and Velvetta is $15 off amazon... So I am about to make fiance 3/3/15! FAT! from these flashback recipe's..THANKS