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Monday, October 29, 2012

Packed and off to
Horsham via Rose's gap. The plan had been to meet Jon there and then
ride back down via the Grampians to the coast. As I was riding
towards Horsham I realised that the smart thing would have been to
meet back at Halls Gap – saving him many kilometres. Fortunately
when I got to Horsham Jon rang and we agreed on the revised
rendezvous. In Horsham I followed the advice of the local Tourist
Information people and had a shower at the aquatic centre – a
necessary after two days on the road and a strenuous bush walk.

Back to Halls Gap via
the more direct route and met up with Jon for lunch at the NP HQ.

We then pressed on
south to the coast, stopping in Port Fairy for coffee. The
temperature dropped 5 degrees over the last couple of km's as we
approached the coast. A chill wind blowing from the south. It still
being early and despite Jon having done a far few km before meeting
up with me – we decide to continue towards Port Campbell on the
GOR.

Passed lots of bikes
returning from Phillip Island and the moto GP. Started to worry that
Accommodating may be tight, so stopped in Peterborough for the night.

Tomorrow we will
complete the GOR and head for Melbourne. A few days earlier than I
had planned, but looking forward to catching up with family.

An easy start to the
day. Up at 7 to discover the remains of a light overnight frost.
Clear skies and to wind to speak of. Perfect day for a 4.4km climb to
the summit of Mt Difficult. Packed some snacks,
tidied the camp and set off with my Camelbak full of water. A short distance from the start of the
walk I encountered a sign saying – “Strenuous Walking Involved”.

The
assent zig-zagged up the sandstone tiers, working its way steadily up
through some spectacular rock formations with the view to the west
slowly revealing itself.

Paused at the half way
point where a small stream cascaded down from the plateaux and
plunged over a cliff to the valley below. The headwaters of Trooper
Creek no doubt.

In places the track required some scrambling up steep
rock faces and through narrow clefts in the cliff. As I'd started the
walk relatively early and was climbing the western approach, a lot of
the route was in shade which reduced the effort required to climb the
600 plus metres from the camp site to the summit at 807 metres. All
in all a most enjoyable climb!

The views from the
summit were superb and in all directions. Being at the northerly end
of the Grampians allowed fro a view down the entire range to the
south. Another advantage of being so high with unobstructed views in
all directions was that I was able to get a mobile signal. This
allowed me to touch base with family and with Jon who will meet me
tomorrow in Horsham. We will ride back down to the coast together and
then round the Great Ocean Road to Melbourne. The end is in sight!

The descent was quicker
but in many ways more difficult. I was conscious of being by myself –
not having seen another person since leaving camp – and aware of
how easy it would be on a steep descent like this to end up with a
twisted ankle or worse. It was only when I reached the halfway point
at the waterfall that I encountered a couple making the ascent. I
paused again to finish my snacks, cool my feet off in the stream and
admire the views, the rock formations, the wild flowers and the sheer
majesty of my surroundings.

As soon as I made it to
the bottom, on went the stove and the espresso pot was loaded and I
enjoyed a well earned cup of coffee.

Tonight the camp site
is deserted, only the late arrival of a couple in a pop-up caravan
has interrupted my solitude. The fire is lit, the billy is boiling
for a cup of tea and the moon has just risen over Mt Difficult.
Perfect!

A cold and overcast
morning. Slow start and a leisurely breakfast hoping the sun would
emerge to dry the tent. There had been some additional light rain
overnight. No luck with the sun, so pack yet another damp tent and
hit the road by 10am.

Up the highway to
Hamilton – a large country town for petrol and a coffee break. The
riding is pleasant enough. Good roads and not to much traffic. The
countryside is green and lush. Prime agricultural land around here.
The farmers wives are all driving Mercedes Benz SUV's!

The road from Hamilton
to Dunkeld is even better, with distant views of the Grampians
enticing me forward. Passing through Coleraine I spot an amazing old bus
pulling over at the chocolate factory. It's the original (beautifully
restored) FLXIBLE Clipper that Reg Ansett imported into Australia in
1947. Being driven by an old codger (Ken Turnbull) who used to drive
it on a daily run from Mt Gambier to Melbourne in the good old days.

On to Dunkeld –
gateway to the Southern Grampians. I take the back road through
Victoria Valley north towards Halls Gap. A great minor road –
single lane in places, but sealed all the way. A superb run up the
middle of a wide flat valley – again rich agricultural land -
between two parallel ranges – with spectacular views on both sides.
The road finally cuts right and over the Sierra Range through
Mirranatwa Gap back to the main north south road to Halls Gap. A
great little section of up and down twisties. Best riding since
leaving Perth!

On the way to Halls
Gap, I stop at a couple of camp sites and check them out. My plan is
to spend two nights in the park and do a day walk. Ideally up to the
ridge or a peak for the views. After checking in a NP HQ in Halls
Gap, and taking their advice, I end up in the northern section at
Troopers Creek camping area.

A fantastic route out
of Halls Gap bak up and over the range – fantastic bike riding.
Yipee!

Troopers Creek is a
lovely quiet spot in the bush, with just a couple of camp sites,
below Mt Difficult. Tomorrows goal – weather permitting - is to
climb Mt Difficult. About 4.5km return straight up and down. Here's
hoping the weather is fine!

Although the Caledonian
Inn bar and restaurant had been packed the night before, I was the
only overnight guest and had a solitary breakfast after a quick
morning stroll around Robe.

The Inn backs on to the
beach with a block of guest cottages facing out over the bay. Robe
has lots of heritage buildings that have been restored and well
maintained. The harbour has been turned into a marina, and of all the
'so-called' southern ports, it is by far the most prosperous.

Stopped into Beachport
and Southport as I meandered down the coast towards Mt Gambier. The
wind continued to blast out of the south and the temperature never
rose above 16 degrees.

When I was camping in
Rapid Bay, a fellow traveller asked which way I was heading. When I
told him I was planning to follow the coast as much as possible, told
me to keep my eyes open for Woakwine Cutting. I forgot all about it
until today when a sign appeared between Robe and Beachport. I
cannot decide if it should be considered a monument to folly or
determination – probably both. The sign tells it all.

Although the morning
had remained dry, as I approached Mt Gambier the showers started
again. Mt Gambier to pick up food & supplies for the next few
days.

Tired of the wind I
decided to head inland I the hope that it will be more sheltered. Up
the highway north towards Coonawarra / Penola through yet more wine
country. Also large pine plantations – which did provide a bit of
protection from the wind. A Penola I turned east again onto a back
road to Casterton. Very quiet road, through a mixture of lush
pastures and more pine plantations.

Casterton has a small
caravan park run by the council – cheap no frills, but at least it
has hot showers, a laundry and a patch of grass to pitch the tent. It
is also almost deserted. Perfect for the night. As I set up camp, the
wind abated and the sky cleared. Lets hope it continues. The forecast
is looking good, even if the predicted overnight temperature is 4
degrees!

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Despite the weather
appearing to clear on sunset, the wind and rain returned during the
night. At one point I awoke to hear the sound of what was obviously
my billy being cart-wheeled across the camp ground. I was up and
chasing it instantly, otherwise it would have ended up in the bay.

Wet Tent on Windy Beach

A windy, cold and damp
morning. Up at the now usual 6:30am. A slow breakfast with much
needed hot coffee. I procrastinated, drawing out the packing process
in the vain hope the sun might come out and dry my tent. No such
luck. Reluctantly I rolled up the wet tent, finished packing and rode
out of Rapid Bay. Despite the bad weather it had been a good camp
site.

The road down to Cape
Jervis – the ferry terminal for Kangaroo Island was a good way to
start the day. The wind was relentless and cold, but at least it had
stopped raining. Just a bit of 'scotch mist' persisted, keeping the
road damp and my visor damp.

Cape Jervis - Kangaroo Island Ferry Terminal

After checking out the
ferry terminal and watching it being loaded for the next trip I
backtracked up the road to the turn-off for Victor Harbor. Another
great ride along the ridge line. Lots of corners but a good well
engineered road. Victor Harbor is clearly a prime tourist
destination. Lots of coaches, grey nomads and other tourists. Found a
good 'German Bakehouse' for coffee and cake. Yum!

Back on the road to
Goolwa and the Murray river. Very suburban, and again Goolwa is
another tourist stop. Paused at the Hindmarsh Island Bridge in time
to see a paddle steamer sail past.

After Goolwa I hit the
back roads as I worked my way around Lake Alexandrina, ending up
crossing the Murray at an old ferry point called Wellington.

Then out
onto the Princes Highway and a blast through the Coorong, buffeted
all the way by that damned wind. Today makes 7 days riding in a row
that the wind has been a curse.

Finally pulled over in
Robe, an old port – second only to Adelaide in the old days, before
it was bypassed by the rail network. Full of old buildings including
the Caledonian Inn – where I'm staying. The first 'civilised'
lodging I've had since leaving Esperance.

The Caledonian Inn - Robe

I now have time to
spare before I need to be in Melbourne, so I will meander through
parts of inland Victoria I've not visited before, including the
Grampians., before returning to the coast for the last run into
Melbourne along the Great Ocean Road.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Day dawned overcast
with the threat of rain. Breakfast of orange juice only, packed and
on the road before 7:30am.

Continued my cruise
down the ranges from north to south. Destination Hahndorf and a
cooked breakfast as a treat. Countryside was splendid lush green
pastures mixed with vineyards and orchards. Lots of large 'Country
Estates'. Great roads as well. Had to keep alert to morning commuter
traffic – in a hurry to get to work – poor fools!

Hahndorf is
“cutesville” - like so many of the small towsn and villages in
the Adelaide hills very picturesque and very 'tourist oriented'.

On to Mt Barker for a
supermarket shop for the days provisions, then an epic ride down the
Fleurieu Peninsula through farms and forest until the road reaches
the coast at Normanville. Great riding, with interesting hills along
the coast.

Stopped at a lookout that commemorates the HMAS Hobart. It was sunk for use as a diving wreck just off the coast here.

The further down the
peninsula I rode, the more threatening the weather became. Rode down
a spectacular road dropping down from the hills to Rapid Bay through
green hills tinged purple by Paterson's Curse.

I arrive at Rapid Bay
camp ground just as it starts to rain. A picnic shelter provides
welcome cover for lunch while I contemplate my next move. After lunch
and a cup of tea – punctuated by frequent showers I decide thus is
as good a place ass any to spend the night. A good cheap camp ground,
deserted except for a few other travellers. A spectacular setting and
with the weather looking like it may clear later I saw no need to
continue further. The rest of Fleurieu Peninsula can wait for
tomorrow.

Rapid Bay from New Jetty

After the rain stopped I went for a walk up and down the beach. Rapid Bay was once the site of a limestone mine/quarry. "The open cut mine at Rapid Bay was a major source of limestone for Broken
Hill Proprietary Ltd (BHP) during the years 1942 - 1981. The limestone was
shipped to BHP's steelworks at Whyalla, Newcastle and Port Kembla where it was
used as metallurgical flux in production of steel." http://www.rapidbayjetty.org/history.htm

The old jetty is in ruin and slowly collapsing back into the bay. However, the state government has built a new one right alongside.

Old and New

Unlike the jetty, the houses from the old mine are kept in good repair. There is even a school and an excellent cricket oval. Signs of more prosperous times, but good to see the locals are keeping them in good shape.

As predicted – as I
type this up, at sunset, the skies have cleared, but the temperature
has dropped! A cold wind is now blowing from the south west. Time for
dinner and to bed.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Easy start as the ferry
on leaves at 10:30am from 16km up the road a Lucky Bay.

A group of riders from
Perth on their way to Phillip Island for the Moto GP were already at
the ferry terminal when I arrived.

Ferry trip was
uneventful, windy and choppy but otherwise OK. Just over 2 hours
later we berth and I head for the hills (Adelaide Hills). The wind
has now swung round almost 90 degrees from the last few days, and is
hot from the north. 33 degrees at Port Wakefield where I stop for
late lunch. Then east across the coastal plain across fields of
cereal passing through Balaklava, Owen, Hamely Bridge, Freeling until
I hit the Sturt Highway and the start of the ranges. Lovely
countryside and a pleasant ride apart from the ever present wind.
Some local near Hamely Bridge passed me from the opposite direction
with a trailer load that was dropping debris left and right,
including a couple of planks of wood. Serious evasive action was
required.

Sturt Highway until the
turn off for Nariootpa and the start of wine country. From Narioopta
to Angaston and the start of the route down through Eden Valley to
Mount Pleasant and my destination for today.

The ride from Angaston
was very scenic. The route more or less follows the ridge line from
north to south and is relatively elevated. Lots of old gums and some
serious real estate. Stopped at the Eden Valley Lookout which had a
beacon showing distances to various places.

Suddenly Melbourne and
Canberra seem close –

- especially when compared with the distance
just covered back to Perth!

Camping in the Mount
Pleasant show-ground. $10 for the night for a nice grassy camp site
and hot showers. The forecast for tomorrow is looking a bit dodgy,
with showers predicted as another front passes. The temperature is
also going to drop. I plan on heading south along the ranges through
Hahndorf before continuing to Cape Jervis and then east around the
coast to Goolwa and the mouth of the Murray River. We shall see...

Although the wind was
still blowing, it was not as bad as the day before, and as I headed
south it became easier, allowing me to admire the view rather than
manhandle the bike.

The countryside changed as I approached the
Coffin By turn off. Still plenty of wheat fields, as well as what
looked like canola and barley. There were also remnant pockets of
native vegetation including some majestic old eucalyptus (sugar
gums?). The habitat and micro-climate appeared to be quite different
in this south western corner of the Eyre Peninsula. There were also
some isolated peaks as well. Very pleasant riding with some actual
corners on the roads! I initially bypassed Coffin Bay and proceeded
on to Port Lincoln for coffee and fuel, before backtracking via
Winters Lookout for a panoramic view over Port Lincoln and surrounds

and then back to Coffin Bay. (What a name – visions of floating
coffins come to mind – shades of Moby Dick. Turns out that it was
named by Matthew Flinders in honour of his good friend Sir Isaac
Coffin – a naval commissioner.)

The detour to Coffin
Bay was well worth it. Stunning landscape with multiple bays and
inlets leading out to a spectacular coastline with views out to the
islands off shore. The road out to the coast through the national
park was an added bonus, full of undulations and sharp corners –
great on the bike. Saw plenty of emus on the way out, accompanied by
lots of chicks. Camera at the ready on the return trip I saw nothing!
Just a couple of lizards and what looked like a pair of Sea Eagles in
the distance.

Back inland and headed
north up the middle of the peninsula to Cummins – a small town
dominated by its wheat silos.

Stop for coffee and apple slice then
east back down to the coast on what turned out to be a great road
that climbed to a reasonable altitude, before dropping rapidly
through a series of great sweeping corners down to the coast at Tumby
Bay. The last stretch up the coast to Cowell was uneventful with
views out east to the Spencer Gulf.

Campsite in the Harbour
View Caravan Park. Tomorrow the ferry from Lucky Bay to Wallaroo.
Then on to Nuriootpa and the Barossa!

Sunday, October 21, 2012

So – the morning
dawns overcast and still windy. We head for Ceduna to restock our
depleted food supplies. By the time we reach Ceduna, the cloud has
gone but the wind remains. M & U decide they will ride part way
down the Eyre Peninsula with me – at least as far as Elliston.

Ceduna was deserted,
but the supermarket was well stocked and the prices were acceptable
after the extortionist pricing we encountered at the roadhouses
crossing the Nullarbor.

Morning coffee at Smoky
Bay – also deserted. As we proceeded south, the wind freshened.
Lunch in Streaky Bay, refueled and pressed on to Elliston.

The Eyre Peninsula has
lots of wheat fields – the winter crop either recently harvested or
about to be. Golden rolling hills in all directions. It would have
made for very pleasant riding except for the wind, which had become
even fresher.

By the time we reached
Elliston we had had enough for the day.

Wellington Bay caravan park
for our last night together. Tomorrow M & U will turn inland and
start heading for Port Augusta on their way to the Flinders Range. I
will continue down and round the Eyre Peninsula via Coffin Bay &
Port Lincoln before making for Cowell and the ferry across to
Wallaroo on the York Peninsula, before bypassing Adelaide and heading
for the Barossa.

It's going to be
strange riding on my own after 3 months together. We've had a great
time on the road over the past 3 months.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

The night was windy but
clear, up at dawn to view the cliffs again before packing and hitting
the road. The wind increased to strong and gusty and was out of the
south, which continued for the rest of the days ride. The ride would
have been pleasant but for the wind, which required constant
attention, especially when overtaking slower traffic, or when a road
train passed in the opposite direction. We had hoped to reach Ceduna
tonight, but stopped at Penong – 70 odd kilometres west of Ceduna.
Camp in the local caravan park and dinner in the pub. Tired but happy
now that we have crossed the Nullarbor.

Tomorrow after Ceduna,
M & U will decide whether to come with me down to the Eyre
Peninsula via the Flinders Highway (the scenic route), or to stay on
the Eyre Highway and press on to Port Augusta before heading up to
the Flinders. We shall see.