Alpine Up

Rating

Description

The Alpine-Up Belay Device, made by Climbing Technology, is a highly versatile assisted braking device for belaying and rappelling; developed especially for mountaineering. It can be used with twin, half, or single ropes. The Alpine-Up has three modes: dynamic, click-up, and guide. In dynamic mode, the Alpine-Up functions exactly like a tube device for standard belaying and rappelling. In click-up mode, it acts as an assisted braking device that will catch any fall. In guide mode, the Alpine-Up will operate directly from the anchors while maintaining its assisted breaking ability. For extra leverage when rappelling, the Alpine-Up is equipped with a foldaway lever.

Retail price

US$ 99.95

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Device Type

Tube

The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device."

Figure 8

Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope.

Brake Assist

These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope.

Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time).

Plate

When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight.

Descender

For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping.

Brake Assist

Weight (g)

Weight (g)

In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand.

175 g

Guide Mode

Guide Mode

This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device.

Tubers and Plates

When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. During a fall, the climbing rope pinches the slack rope, completely stopping the movement of either rope. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Mechanical Brake Assist Devices

There is no difference in the functionality of the device. A brake-hand should always be on the rope to ensure the climber is caught in the case of a fall. A common guide mode setup shown below.

Where guide mode is used

multi-pitch sport or trad climbs

single-pitch where you need to bring up a follower (say for a walk-off)

Learn More

Teeth

Teeth are only seen on tube devices. They add friction that helps grip the rope for more belaying control.

This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Teeth are becoming standard on new tube devices.

Worth Considering

Teeth do wear out. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). Once they’re worn, you’ll still have a usable belay device, just less friction.

No

Belay Brake Assist

Belay Brake Assist

This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber.

This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.

Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope.

Worth Considering

Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel).

Yes

Rope Range (mm)

Rope Range (mm)

The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used.

This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm.

Recently, manufacturers have started to add an "optimized" rope range -- this is the range that will result in the nicest handling of the belay device.

7.3 mm - 10.5 mm ­­single: 8.6 - 10.5 twin/half: 7.3 - 9.0

Certification

Certifications

The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. When possible, we try to list all the certifications the product carries.

To sell a climbing product in Europe, the device must be CE certified. There are no official requirements to sell climbing gear in the US. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process.

AVG RATING

This is something I own

I got this device because I wasn't in love with the grigri. It seemed like it did everything, and it does. Anything you need to do on the mountain, this device can do, and do pretty well. It belays smooth, and auto locks on the fall.

It keeps people belaying with the correct motion, where some people have a tendency to get lazy with the grigri.

The only issue is that if you are working a route, the locking can be a little difficult to undo, and it can lock if the person is climbing fast and you take rope too quickly. Then it is tough to unlock...

If you can only have one device and you need to belay, rappel, and you want locking, this will do it all. If you can afford a grigri and another 40 bucks for a regular guide level ATC, then that is the way to go.

So, given my views regarding the Alpine Up’s performance, It would seem as though it would replace my other belay devices. However, even though it’s the best performer, there are times when I still prefer the Edelrid Mega Jul or Micro Jul.

The Mega Jul and Micro Jul are significantly lighter and more compact, so when weight and space are at a premium (i.e. alpine climbing) I will usually reach for one of the Edelrid devices over the Alpine Up. Also, the Micro Jul is the only device capable of being used with really skinny twin ropes, such as the 6.9mm Edelrid Flycatcher.

Bottom line is that when I’m cragging, I generally take the Alpine Up. When I’m alpine climbing, I generally take the Mega Jul or Micro Jul.