Can any of you tell me how to crimp the Lyman 358-311 round nose bullet in magnum brass. The OAL on the crimp band is only .20" or so too long. I have reverted to using /38 Spc. brass, but am getting some higher pressures than I like to see.

I have Bullseye, PB, Herco, A#9, 2400, and IMR4227 that I have loaded in this caliber. I prefer using 2400 to get the "V" up for hunting purposes, but don't like the sticky ejection and flat/cratered primers that I find with moderate loads in 38 brass.

There seem to be tomes written about the 358-429 being too long for the 357, but I haven't found anything about the -311

Can any of you tell me how to crimp the Lyman 358-311 round nose bullet in magnum brass. The OAL on the crimp band is only .20" or so too long. I have reverted to using /38 Spc. brass, but am getting some higher pressures than I like to see.

I have Bullseye, PB, Herco, A#9, 2400, and IMR4227 that I have loaded in this caliber. I prefer using 2400 to get the "V" up for hunting purposes, but don't like the sticky ejection and flat/cratered primers that I find with moderate loads in 38 brass.

There seem to be tomes written about the 358-429 being too long for the 357, but I haven't found anything about the -311

I would suggest a LEE factory crimp die. And set your COAL to whatever works in your weapon.

IME, with full power .357 loads, H110 beats out 2400 by a mile. AAC#9 is better than 2400, butr not as good as H110.

At least in my guns this is the case.

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Thanks locutus, the Lee crimper just might work, I'm sure it's better than the one I am using now that does tend to slip on that small band.

I am just starting the load development with A#9, and love the metering repeatability, but it does have a temperature sensitivity that is problematic for me. While I have heard that 296/110 does better with heavier slugs, I have also heard of flame cutting and erosion problems with these hot ball powders. As I am not using the "heavy for caliber" bullets, I am happy with 2400 results, and will probably just use up the Accurate offering.

I used to load that bullet many year ago before I sold the mold,don't recall ever having any issues just roll crimping the bullet in the provided crimp groove in 38 or 357 mag cases for my Ruger BH.

Finished crimp will the same as on this 158 gr. SWC.

I like 2400 for my 357 cast loads lot's more latitude than H110/W296 which has a very narrow load range. I use H110 for my full house jacketed bullet loads,nobody sells AA powders around here.

My #45 Lyman manual list 8.0 grs. of 2400 for 158 to 168 gr. cast bullets as a starting load it's also the accuracy load. Bullseye,Unique,Power Pistol,IMR-4227 are also good powders and a few other I didn't list.

OAL with this bullet in 38 Special cases 1.550" for 357 mag. 1.590,honestly though I just roll crimped the bullet in the provided crimp groove worked within the listed load data in my Lyman manuals and never had any pressure or chambering/extraction issues.

[quote=locutus;994304]IME, the crimp was placed over the first driving band. Not the crimping groove. The crimping groove is for .38 special loads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by res45

I used to load that bullet many year ago before I sold the mold,don't recall ever having any issues just roll crimping the bullet in the provided crimp groove in 38 or 357 mag cases for my Ruger BH.

I like 2400 for my 357 cast loads lot's more latitude than H110/W296 which has a very narrow load range. I use H110 for my full house jacketed bullet loads,nobody sells AA powders around here.

OAL with this bullet in 38 Special cases 1.550" for 357 mag. 1.590,honestly though I just roll crimped the bullet in the provided crimp groove worked within the listed load data in my Lyman manuals and never had any pressure or chambering/extraction issues.

OK,...I have been away for a few days. I would like to thank everyone that responded, but I must not have made it clear that I have reloaded before. In fact for more than 50 years now. I do have several loading manuals that are well worn. I have also built up loads for powders/ calibers that are not in any of them, without blowing my self up. My frustration is the lack of information on this particular slug (sure it's old), and it's lack of fit in (most) 357 mag. cylinders. I will of course try and try again. The Lee suggestion will be pursued.

I don't have the exact numbers in front of me right now, but the brass is nominally 1.280", the crimp grove to tip is ~0.400", so you're looking at 1.680" overall. My cylinder will fit around 1.630 max"