In order to avoid using 1/2″ on the front and back of the frame I’ve chosen to you a printed 90 degree bracket which is probably over kill but it seems sturdy now.

I still have some details to take care of…

Finishing the base. I was going to paint it, but I think I’m going to print a thin perimeter cover to glue on (see attached pic). The first print worked well but I did not extend it to the mdf printer frame. I did another modification and printed one where it covers the entire perimeter up the MP3DP frame which worked well too (sorry no pic, will post it when I’m done) . Not sure what I’m going to do on the inside though.

Did you get that fan to work? I printed 3 and couldn’t get any of them to work.

I printed 2. The first one was in PLA as a test print to see if it would fit….I changed the orientation of the print and it printed ok but not great…had a hard time removing the support. Before printing the second one I read the comments on TG and found a post stating that orientation for printing is the same as the pictures. I printed the second one without changing the orientation and in PETG. It printed better and fits perfectly on the heat sync. As far as working …….as in does it perform has a cooling fan should?…this is still to be determined has I have not completed the build.

Have not got to that point yet, will hopefully finish wiring Friday night and might get to powering up on Saturday afternoon …..gotta do an implementation for work on Saturday morning. Once I get to that point I will let you know how it’s going…..your issues have got me worried, but im using the ramps and not the Rambo so maybe it’ll be better …or worse.

It’s such a bummer, in the 20+gigs of about a zillion minify files that stacked up there was a single database file. We dumped the whole temp folder and it took that with it. The file got restored from backup, I was guessing he restored the file from that morning’s backup but I guess he went back a day or two….of all the files I can restore by myself that temp folder is not one of them, and of course the tech screwed that up. The first three tech kept saying we need to do a whole site wipe/restore, I was so pissed there way no way I was going to do that, get a “senior” tech on the phone and he had the site back in 4 minutes…..I hate dealing with entry level tech support.

Uploaded photo’s again…Thanks. I work in the TEL-CO/IT business and it’s kinda fun talking to the teir-1 for about 2 seconds and then it gets frustrating….sometimes you just have to sternly request tier2 or higher. Like I want to be on the phone replying to a question such as “is you modem plugged in”!

I had to walk a TWC support guy through putting my cable modem into bridge mode once.

support: “Our modems don’t support that” me: “click here, then here, check that box” support: “holy crap! I didn’t know they did that!” me: “it’s been doing that for the last three years until the update you guys pushed last night turned it off.” support: “sorry about that!”

I have my own cable modem now. It doesn’t have all that fancy shit like routing or wireless. It just converts cable to ethernet. Like they’re supposed to do.

I’m in the process of configuring the MP3DP firmware for the Titan Aero. According to the Aero documentation I need to perform PID Tuning. The aero documentation refers to PID auto tuning (excerpt below). Do I have change anything in the “PID Settings” section of the firmware?

PID Tuning from Aero documentation PID Tuning ensures that the hotend gets up to temperature correctly, with minimal overshoot and oscillation.

Connect to the printer Run M303 to autotune your PID – check out Thomas Sanladerer’s video guide for more information. Please note that not all firmwares support autotune, and you may need to tune manually. Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC may permanently damage the thermistor.

The stock (Not stock marlin, my stock) settings should be pretty close, every time you run it it will be different. Super easy to do. Then just change the three values in the firmware and reupload. It is nice to do but I doubt you will see any drastic difference. You can watch the temp graph in REpetier host to see if you have any major overshoot or oscillation.

That’s correct, but that’s pretty high for a 3D printer. With less current, you won’t have any less accuracy, you’ll only be more likely to lose steps if there’s a crash. More current is going to make the drivers and the motors warmer. If there’s a crash, you’re hosed anyway, so I’d set it lower.

Probably even as low as 0.35V. Others might have different opinions.

I would set the extruder higher because it will lose steps if you’re going fast, which a lot of people like to do. Maybe you were asking about the extruder… Unsolicited opinions are my specialty.

Rats……….I lost 15 mm on the Y axis. Not sure if its because of the aluminum plate I used or the extruder mount. I think its the extruder mount because the plate holes are darn close to the stork plate. I might need a flatter extruder stepper in order to gain some of it back.

I only have one on an MPCNC. The way you have yours mounted you are pushing the nozzle out the front. I am assuming 15mm, if you turn it 90 degrees the nozzle moves back, and you gain the lost distance.