Now in its 18th season, The Brewer’s Art has had a remarkably successful run in its Charles Street townhouse. Most impressively, it has managed to mature and grow in popularity while holding true to its original rathskeller roots.

The Belgian-style beers, brewed on the premises, are deservedly admired far and wide. In the kitchen, Ray Kumm is doing fine work with Bavarian-inspired fare — think “rouledan,” a German-style veal roulade with a smoked veal and cornichon stuffing.