I dreamed of visiting India since my teenage years when I read about the adventures of Beatniks and hippies in this colorful country. I finally got the chance to visit Northern India this summer, traveling "on the road" to several cities with Janu Private Tours.

I was keen to see India's fascinating spirituality and fringe cultures first-hand. My fluent guide Mr. Janu customized the trip to match my exact interests. I saw alien-like astrology instruments, hugged elephants in an ethical sanctuary, and even made friends with "hijra," the third recognized gender.

From the cremation grounds and Kali temples of Varanasi to sunrise at the Taj Mahal, here are some of the highlights of my life-changing journey.

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India is a visual delight for anyone who loves art and culture. I adopted the local fashion, and fell in love with this peacock gate inside Jaipur's City Palace.

India can be a difficult country to visit on one's own, and I'm glad I put my trust with the inspiring Mr. Janu. He started out as a tuk-tuk driver who barely spoke English, and built Janu Private Tours into a successful team that arranges trips all through India.

In New Delhi, Mr. Janu took me to the magnificent Jama Masjid mosque, which has sandstone arches and carvings in the Mughal style. It's located right next to the alleyways of Old Delhi, which I explored in a raucous rickshaw ride.

What a joy to hug and feed this gentle giant. At Elefantastic, the elephants live in individual houses next to their life-long caretaker, and are never tied up or ridden.

I bathed my female elephant with a hose. She also playfully sucked the water through her trunk, and sprayed herself to cool off!

Since I traveled by private car, I could easily visit multiple cities within a short period. Mr. Janu and his driver took us throughout Rajasthan in a vehicle stocked with drinks, snacks and amenities. We stopped to see his new Marigold Inn, a Jaipur hotel with a community feeling.

Also a must-see: Jaipur's City Palace, built in the mid-18th century by Sawai Jai Singh II. This was the majestically decorated home of the maharajahs.

Jaipur's Jantar Mantar holds the world’s largest stone sundial, and celestial instruments that correspond to the signs of the zodiac.

I had a happy meeting with two "hijra," who identify as the officially-recognized "third gender" in India. They told me about their unique place in Indian society: hijras are considered lucky, and perform blessings and ceremonies.

I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw Jal Mahal, the floating water palace. It was built in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II, as a royal summer retreat and party island.

I imagined I was conquering Amer Fort, an ancient stronghold that was developed by Jai Singh I, and filled with impressive courtyards.

On the way to Agra, I stopped to see Fatehpur Sikri palace. Emperor Akbar lived here with this three wives, who were Christian, Muslim and Hindu. They had their own respective quarters decorated in these styles.

For the best photographs and most relaxed experience, I recommend visiting the Taj Mahal at sunrise. My friend and I donned saris, and were able to take images without others in the frame.

Shah Jahan was heartbroken by the death of his favorite wife Mumtaz, and built the Taj to honor her. The entire complex is exquisitely designed, from the reflecting pool and gardens to the mosque and minarets.

Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Benares, is the famous spiritual city on the River Ganges. I saw painted holy men along the banks, and pilgrims dressed in orange for a festival.

Mr. Janu linked us with local guide Kunal of Experience Varanasi, who took us on sunset boat ride on the holy River Ganges. I made an offering of flowers and candles, and later watched the "aarti" fire ceremony as the sun set.