Towards Vatnajökull crossing “nobody’s land”| Ice chronicles

– 15th of August, Towards Vatnajökull crossing “nobody’s land” –

After visiting the village of Vík,we get back into our jeep and drive west towards the Höfn hostel where we plan to stay overnight (the pronunciation sounds as a hiccup :D)

It is 7.30 p.m. and we are setting off again. Step by step every human trace vanishes. We start bumping into waterfalls, lonely sheeps, some scattered hobbit houses, and then NOTHING. Green mosses that just Odin knows if gullies or molten rocks are hiding under. Then just a black sand desert.

Later we will learn from an Icelander what happened there. In 1918 the Katlasubglacial volcano erupted for 24 straight days, discharging an existimated flood of 7 km³. This is how the area has been turned into a “Nobody’s land”.

We are about 100 km far from Höfn, and Vatnajökull – the biggest glacier in Europe-starts coming into our left-side view. We need to stop in front of such epic greatness . It’s 10.00 p.m. and It’s rainy . The Mountains, covered with clouds, culminate in a majestic glacier. I have never seen such low-level clouds: We seem to be at world’s end!

Can you see the dragon peeking out?

Towards Vatnajökull (read as “fat yogurt“)

To complete such a beautiful view, there is also a marvellous crater covered with moss. Walking inside a crater in absolute silence and loneliness is another of the once in a lifetime experience that Iceland can offer.

In the so-called “Nobody’s land”

Soon, we are interrupted by another majesty of nature: It is the Jökulsárlón – glacier lagoon! In Iceland “the greatest thing you’ve ever seen“, is replaced very quickly: for the four of us -who have been travelling a lot- It is an insourmontable sight. It is the 15th of August, 11.00 p.m. , perfect timing: there isn’t anybody but us . It’s late and getting dark, but It is still bright enough for enjoing the view. Floating icebergs with seals swimming freely.

Even a wideangle and a brighter lens wouldn’t capture this unbelievable sight…

We have tears in our eyes. Despite quickly leaving the car wearing only light sweaters, we can’t even feel the 3°C outside. We are running on pure adrenalin.