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The more effort you put into posting up your questions, the more effort users will put into replying. There is no such thing as a dumb question, but please don't be lazy...

Well tried the jdm fuel gauge in my adm cluster and i was getting fuel reading, tried my bro's stock adm cluster and i was getting fuel reading...tried the jdm cluster with the adm fuel gauge and no fuel reading. I guess its the circuit board which is fault and not having any fuel readings. Time to swap over the faces to my ADM =P

FUN FACT

So heres a little interesting note i found on my adventures swapping adm to jdm stuff...so yesterday i swapped over the jdm face and needles from the jdm cluster to the adm one. When i went to test it to see if everything was working i noticed my RPM's were inaccurate (on idle it read 400 while on my hand controller it said bout 800-900). When i reved it to bout 5000 on the cluster, my hand controller read that my max rev was only bout 4300.

The problem is now solved!! Apparently the jdm needle is a bit heavier than the adm one so it was giving inaccurate readings. I swapped in the adm needle and problem solved. I guess ill try swapping the actual jdm rpm motor device into the adm one see what happens.

I made a hybrid adm jdm kouki cluster, and have one curious thing. I used adm outer frame, jdm plastic green printed circuit, jdm speedo odo fuel temp and oil gauges. All works except fuel light stays on all the time, and i have the heavy needle issue described above. Very similar to whats described, tacho reading 800 when warming up at 1450 rpm actual. I can adjust my tacho to read better as I fitted a variable resistor when i did the mod so I had adjustment. The heavy needle makes it smoother. Not worried about that, but why on earth would the fuel light stay on? I might just swap it back to the adm plastic printed circuit. Thats about all I can think of that might interfere. I noticed one difference between them. There's a resistor thats not on the jdm one thats on the adm one. Maybe I need the resistor?

Ok, variable resistor could not overcome the needle weight, so I installed aussie needle, and now the tacho is good. Had a few issues where the fuel light stayed on but it was just the bulb in backwards. Noticed slight differences in the green printed circuits. Printing much the same but the kouki odometer has an extra screw in it from the circuits. Also there's an extra resistor on one circuit, where its completely missing on adm.

So I ended up with:
ADM ODOMETER and speedo
JDM fuel gauge
JDM OIL and Water
ADM Tacho
Just used the green printed circuit that matches the odometer.

Fuel gauge didn't work at all with the wrong green printed circuit installed, and it meant I couldn't use the 148k odometer and am stuck using the 356k one from adm with the kouki face panels installed.

There must be a slight difference in body wiring between kouki and adm as neither adm or jdm gauge worked unless the green printed backing had the resistor in place.

I highly recommend installing a variable resistor on the tacho board and then you can install it with the plastic cover and speedo gauges removed, and adjust the resistor with car running to save hours of trial and error adjusting it, refitting it and putting it all back multiple times.