Rumors had it at the start of the Karakoram season that some teamshad been turned back a the border and banned from
climbing in Pakistan. We checked in with the Alpine Club for answers. Here
goes:

Pythom:Is it
correct that some expeditions were banned from climbing in Pakistan this
season, and which teams are they?

Manzoor Hussain:First of all Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) wishes to state that it
is a mountaineering and sports climbing federation and is neither a Government
department nor its representative/spokesperson.

Mountaineering and climbing, which is now a provincial matter is
being handled by Gilgit-Baltistan Council Secretariat, a federal government
department located in Islamabad.

The process of issuing climbing permits involves clearance of the
intended climbers by various concerned federal Government ministries. However,
it may please be noted that as per international norm each country reserves the
right of allowing entry to foreign citizens into their territory
notwithstanding the fact that the visitor have been issued either visitor visa
or climbing permit.

As per our knowledge/record no expedition was banned by Government
of Pakistan.

The Australian-New Zealand climber Ms. Christine Patricia Burke,
along with her Nepali Sherpa partner were part of 7 member Nanga Parbat
Expedition led by Italian mountaineer Mr Carlo Orlando beginning 5th June 2016.
At the same time she had also applied for climbing permit for Broad Peak.

On arrival at Islamabad Airport Ms Burke was refused entry into
Pakistan. As she had visited Pakistan earlier for climbing, ACP, therefore
assume that the refusal may be related with violation of any terms/conditions
of her past climbing permits which also include provision of correct background
information.

The accompanying Nepali Sherpas who, after Ms Burke’s entry
refusal, chose to return back to Nepal. At the same time her application for
climbing Broad Peak was withdrawn by the concerned tour operator on client’s
advice.

Pythom:The
information we got states that the reason for the ban was the teams brought too
many Sherpa with them to help with the climbing logistics. Is this correct?

Manzoor Hussain: This information is
incorrect. No expedition was refused climbing permission for the reason that
they brought many Sherpas with them.

Out of the total 24 expeditions which have been issued climbing
permit till date during summer 2016, eleven expeditions have brought Nepali
Sherpas as their climbing members. This includes a ten member strong Nepali
Sherpa expedition on K-2.

In total 35 Nepali Sherpas are presently attempting Pakistan’s
mountains. Considering these facts one can conclude the correct picture about
climbing activities of Nepali Sherpas in Pakistan.

Pythom:Does the
Alpine Club of Pakistan plan to limit/prohibit foreign guides/outfitters in the
future?

Manzoor Hussain: Mountaineering communities
of Nepal and Pakistan enjoy close, friendly and historical relationship. Many
Nepali Sherpas have climbed/perished on K-2 and other high peaks of Karakoram,
and on Nanga Parbat, before and after Pakistan’s independence, and therefore
enjoy close relationship with Pakistan’s mountains.

In view of these historical and friendly ties ACP has never
recommended prohibiting Nepali Sherpas from climbing in Pakistan.

However, to protect own mountain tourism industry ACP is
definitely against any foreign outfitters/logistic support providers operating
in Pakistan. In order to protect and promote own high altitude porters and
safeguard their job opportunities ACP has pursued all stake holders to fix a
suitable ratio of Nepal Sherpas vis a vis local High Altitude Porters (HAPs) on
the expeditions so as not to effect jobs of the local HAPs while facilitating
the foreign mountaineers who wish to bring their Nepali Sherpas on their
climb.

The suggested ratio is one Nepali Sherpas against 2.25 local HAPs
on the concerned expedition. However it is not yet being implemented by the
tour operators and the mountaineer clients.

Pythom:What
rules should mountaineers expect?

Manzoor Hussain: The foreign
mountaineers should be allowed to bring the Nepali Sherpas with them in
accordance with the earlier mentioned ratio.

No foreign tour operator/facilitator/logistic support
provider/trekking guide/kitchen staff should be allowed to operate in Pakistan
to ensure job opportunities for the local HAPs and other mountain tourism
related staff/personnel. However, as per present practice they can collaborate
with the local tour operators.

Pythom:A few
years ago terrorists executed mountaineers on Nanga Parbat. What measures, if
any, have been taken to increase safety of visiting mountaineers?

Manzoor Hussain: Since the terrorists attack on
Diamer Base Camp of Nanga Parbat on 22 June 2013 very strict security measures
have been put in place on Karakoram Highway leading to mountain areas of
Gilgit-Baltistan both by the federal and provincial governments.

On Nanga Parbat local Police check posts have been established on
all routes leading to the Diamer, Rakhikot and Rupal base camps and
unauthorized person are stopped from travelling further, especially during the
climbing season.

As far as Karakoram is concerned, Army camps exist on Baltoro and
other climbing areas since early 80’s and no untoward incident has ever been
reported. It is pleasure for the ACP to state that mountain areas of
Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral (Hindukush) are very safe destinations for the
international mountaineers, trekkers and other visitors.