The right side of the main cliff is on private land, so no climbing here. This includes all the amazing-looking rock right of Karen's Crack. Also, the approach roughly follows a property boundary that zigzags through the forest. Take care not to accidentally wander onto the private property.

Description

This narrow canyon contains a couple reliable pure-ice routes, and many enjoyable mixed testpieces. It's one of the more difficult "roadside" areas to reach, mainly because it's not really roadside, there is no trail, and the snow can be deep. You're much better off if somebody else breaks trail! (Bring snow shoes!)

Facing into the canyon from the mouth at the height of land, the left wall faces northwest and gets a tiny bit of late-day sun; most of the routes are spread out on this wall, and it is very steep in places. The right wall faces southeast and gets baked; there aren't many routes on this wall, the exception being White Fang.

For the pure ice routes, a rack of screws is sufficient. For the mixed routes, a full rock rack is required, and for the advanced stuff, take a double rack and even some pitons. There are presently no bolts in this canyon, and the first ascentionists went to great lengths to avoid placing any.

The furthest wall in the canyon (on the left side) is the most impressive, and is the home to many mixed testpieces. Unfortunately, the right side of this is on private land, so don't climb right of Karen's Crack.

Getting There

Park on the side of the road near Malfunction Junction, several hundred yards towards Exit 30 (18T 605585 4883503). There are no pullouts here, but there is a wide shoulder...make sure to get your car off the road. This can be a challenge in the winter when the snowbanks are high, and you want to make sure you don't interfere with plows. If you have any question, park on the other side of Malfunction Junction (towards Chapel Pond) at a wide, plowed pullout; this adds about 0.5 mile of road walking to your approach.

On the south side of the road, observe the private land markers; you are looking for the boundary between the public land (the land near Malfunction Junction, yellow-blue DEC markers, or yellow paint) and the Underwood property (towards Exit 30, red POSTED signs). Turn into the woods here

The shortest approach will take a straight southwest line to the mouth of the canyon, but there is some elevation gain and loss on this line. Alternatively, you can follow the property boundary (initially slightly southeast) as it zigzags through the forest. On the last uphill slog, you will see the opening to the canyon off to the right of the property boundary. Enter the canyon here. White Fang is first ice route you come to, and is on the right. Continue down canyon to everything else.