Gauge

4.75 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern

Sizes

Baby (Crib, Throw)

Finished dimensions: 24 x 36 (30 x 45, 40 x 60) inches

The sample shown here is a Baby size.

Notes

Knitting into the Stitch Below

k1b [knit one below]: Insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.

Turn or Slide

Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work.

“Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.

“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.

You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is magically there waiting for you!

With Color A, k1, *k1b, slip first stitch over second stitch and off right needle (binding off one), k1, bind off one, repeat from * to end of row.

Cut yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.

Finish

NOTE: I recommend weaving in the ends before working the Attached I-cord border.

With Color A and the two double pointed needles, work a 2-stitch Attached I-cord around the entire edge of the blanket. With the right side facing you, start at any point of the blanket’s edge and work counter clockwise.

For the long side edges, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows.

For the short bottom and top edges, pick up a stitch into every stitch. This means for the bottom row you’ll pick up one stitch for each cast-on stitch, and for the top edge you’ll pick up one stitch for each bound-off stitch.

At each corner, work one row of Attached I-cord, then a row of unattached I-cord, and then another row of Attached I-cord.

When you’ve finished working the Attached I-cord, graft or sew its two ends together.

190 Responses to Beautyberry Blanket

I would love to make this blanket to match the size of the Eleventh Hour Marled blanket… 37×48. How many stitches would I have to cast on and how much yarn should I buy? Or maybe it would be better to size the Eleventh hour Marled blanket to be 40×60? Larger would be nicer. I just would like these two blankets to be comparable in size. Thanks!

Thanks for writing in! 40×60″ for this blanket is already an option in the pattern. If you look under “sizes”, you’ll want to follow the cast on and suggested yardage for the size listed last within the parenthesis. Let us know how it goes and feel free to write back if you have any questions.

Thanks for writing us. You will still turn and slide your work even while using one color. Nothing in the pattern should change except the fact that you aren’t using a contrast color. I hope this works out for you! I think it’s a great idea and that it’ll turn out lovely!

Thanks for writing in! We are unable to provide help in Spanish but I have used a translator and think that I can help! 90 x 120 cm roughly translates to the second size of this blanket that is 30 x 45 inches. This size calls for 7 skeins of color A and 3 skeins of color B of our Gentle Giant. Each skein weights 100 grams and has 48 yards or 44 meters. This means that for color A, you will need 700 grams which is 336 yards or 308 meters. For color B, you will need 300 grams which is 144 yards or 132 meters.

This blanket is gorgeous! I really want to try making it but I have no idea how to knit with two colors at once. I consider myself an advanced beginner so maybe this is too difficult for me. Do you have a tutorial on using two colors?

Thanks for the kind comment and sorry it took so long to get back! I would do a swatch of the stitch with two yarns of the same weight to see if you can get the hang of it. With this pattern you are working a brioche stitch in two colors, so that’s two advanced beginner techniques in one. If you read the directions, however, it’s pretty easy. You will either turn your work or slide your work across the circular needle to continue knitting with one color or change to another color. I’d give it a go if you are up for it!

Thanks for writing in and sorry for the late response! Though there are purl bumps, you can still knit below the stitch on the left needle. We describe the knit “v” in the video because that is the kind of stitch we are executing in the video. Let me know if you have more questions!

Thanks for writing us! If you did a long tail cast on you should have the stitch on the left needle and then the chain below it. Knit into this stitch below if you can. If you can’t, then I would purl across and start from row 2. Best of luck and happy knitting!

Hello!
I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to slide my work. When I’ve finished the row, my work is on the right needle, so…how do I slide my work to the end of the right needle when it’s already on the right needle? Any other sliding, and my working yarn ends up on the inside.

The answers I found in the comments section just aren’t helping me. Any way you could post a video or some kind of picture guide to your tutorial page? I’m more of a visual learner, and I can’t find any other resources that can help me.

Hopefully I can help! First of all, sliding your work requires a double pointed needle or circular needle because you will be knitting across the row and then sliding your work down the cord of the circular needle or body of the DPN to the other side. For example, if you are doing a one-row stripe alternating colors every row, color A and B will start on the same side. You’ll first knit color A and then slide your work back so you can work with color B. I hope this clears things up!

I would like to turn this pattern into a cowl. Would it be possible to do this in the round? Or is doing a provisional cast on and connecting the ends a possibility? Any cast on # suggestions would be appreciated too. Thanks!

Thank you so much for your questions! This would make such a lovely cowl! How long would you like your cowl to be? Large enough to wrap around twice? If so, I would recommend making it at least 45″ wide, so you can cast on about 53 stitches, according to the gauge the original pattern provides. Since the pattern is written in 2D knitting, we don’t recommend trying to convert it to be knit in the round. It would take so much time and effort that you could be knitting! I recommend simply stitching it up the side once your done.

Please let us know if you have further questions! Again, thank you for writing in.

Unfortunately there is no tutorial on this on our website but maybe you can find something on Youtube. As for sliding your work, you’ll be working on a double pointed or circular needle. When you get to the end of a row, you’ll have the yarn you just worked with on the left and the yarn you will work with on the right. Without turning the work you’ll slide your work down the cord of the circular needle or body of the double point. After doing this you’ll have the needle with the yarn your intend to work with in your left hand and you’ll be able to knit the second color to meet up with the color you just knit. I hope this clarifies things! Let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks for writing in! Given that 2 strands of DK would be much thinner than the yarns used here, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch on US 8 or 9 and see when gauge you get as well as whether or not you like the resulting fabric. If the fabric is too tight, try a US 10 and if it is too loose, try a US 7!

This stitch pattern works over an odd number of stitches. With that in mind, you will multiply the number of stitches that you are getting per inch by the width that you are interested in knitting and cast on the nearest odd number.

Thanks so much. I” going to start on size 9 needles. I did a stockinnette gauge and came up,with 3.5 st to the inch. Is it ok to use that as my reference? I was going to cast on 85 or 91 stitches and go from there.

Thanks for writing back to us! A stockinette gauge is going to yield a very different gauge than a K1B gauge, so I suggest doing your swatch in the stitch the blanket uses just to be sure. With the gauge you’ve provided, you’ll get a 24-26″ wide blanket in stockinette. Is this what you’re aiming for? Let us know!
-Adam

I forgot the sleeves will have to have increases as well, which makes it more complicated… I haven’t tried the pattern yet, but it looks like it’s created over a small number of stitches, so maybe decreses and increases at the edges are possible. Does that make sense?
Thanks again,
Lana

Thanks for writing in! It certainly could be possible but I do believe that you will need to do a fair amount of trial and error to get it down. The increases could certainly be done along the seem of the arm but I am not quite sure how they would work. I would suggest playing around with swatches and I am sure that you will get it!

Thanks for writing us! I think it’s totally possible to do a whole sweater in this and quite a good idea. You’ll have to play with the decreases on a swatch to see which look best, but after a few trials you’ll get it. Thanks and best of luck!

I’ve just finished the blanket and need to start on the border. I’ve read your tutorial on Icords but for the life of me I can’t figure out how to do this attached Icord border. Do you have a video tutorial on this? Any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for writing in! Your cast one number will depend on the gauge that you are getting! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch and counting how many stitches you are getting per inch. This pattern works over any odd number of stitches. So once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by 40 and cast on the nearest odd number and you should be good to go!

Two questions about the Beautyberry Blanket:
1. If I slip 1 instead of K1 at the beginning of each row do you think this will make a neat enough edge to skip the i-cord edge?
2. I’m looking at using a machine washable yarn so this can be an everyday baby blanket. The yarn I am considering ordering is 3.5st/inch (either Berroco Vintage Chunky or Cascade Superwash 128). Color A uses 336yds of Gentle Giant and color B uses 144 yd and the gauge is about 1st/inch. So if I take 336yds X 3.5 = 1176 — is that an okay ballpark estimation of how much yarn to order?
When I made the Chevron Baby Blanket I used a worsted weight yarn (the gauge was about 2x what the pattern called for) held double and ordered twice as much as the pattern called for. This worked for that pattern and looked great. I swatched this pattern doing the same and it just doesn’t look good with yarn held double (or at least this particular yarn) so I want to go with a bulkier yarn.
Thanks for any guidance you can provide. I love your patterns — particularly the blankets.

1. While slipping a stitch on a standard pattern creates a tidier edge, here, due to the fact that you are slipping the work back and working the same row 2 times in a row, you will be slipping the same stitch 2 times in a row. This may create a issue in the general pattern. Additionally, we used the i-cord here to hide the color transitions as well as create a neat and beautiful edging. If you omit the i-cord, you will not hide these transitions.
2.You calculations seem good to me. When changing gauges, I always like to add about 10% just in case.

Thanks for writing in! This pattern works over any odd number of stitches! I have found measurements of 108×90 for a king size blanket. At this size, your cast on number would be 129 stitches. You will also need 4 times the amount of yarn for the largest size.

Thank you for writing. Unfortunately, since we knit this a long time ago we don’t remember exactly how much yarn was needed for the i-cord, but I can guess it’s probably more than one ball of Gentle Giant at 48 yards per skein. We think that reserving about 110 yards of the dark color for the i-cord should do it. Please let us know if you have any more questions!

Thanks for the question. When ripping back any sort of knit below structure you will have to fix it using the brioche stitch. Click here if you are unfamiliar. Knit below and brioche are made similarly, so when you rip back your knit below stitch you’ll see that there is a stitch, a long float and then another stitch. You’ll want to restring your stitches so that there is an alternating pattern of a “normal stitch” and a stitch that has the yarn over floating over the top of it (just like the brioche stitch). After you’ve restrung your stitches you’ll knit the single stitch and knit together the stitch and the yarn over. It’s very hard to explain over this comments thread, but you’ll also find many tutorials on YouTube!

Thank you for writing in! We used the Long Tail cast on for this blanket. To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique. Please let us know if you have anymore questions.

Your tutorial video on “knitting into the stitch below” was wonderful and I understand it! However, in Row 1 of this pattern, how do you knit into the stitch below if this is the first row and there is NO stitch below?

Thank you for your question! We are delighted that you found the tutorial helpful! To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique. Please let us know if you have anymore questions

I love this pattern — am using it to knit a dish towel out of leftover cotton yarn. I have one problem: when there’s an error, I cannot figure out how to unknit it successfully — I’ve torn the thing out about three times, and now, 12 inches in, I’m reluctant to do it again.

Thanks for writing in. Fixing any knit below stitch is difficult to explain in writing, but I’ll do my best. First, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the brioche stitch. In order to fix fisherman’s rib, you need to know how to knit brioche. When taking fisherman’s rib off the needles you’ll see that there is a normal stitch and then an elongated stitch with a “float”. You’ll want to restring the normal stitch and then the elongated stitch, hanging the float over this stitch like when you yarn over a slipped stitch in brioche. In the next row you’ll knit the elongated stitch and float together like in brioche. I hope this makes sense! If not, I’m sure there are fix it tutorials on YouTube.

Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulty. Row 2 should work out to 27 stitches. You will begin k2 and then *k1b, k1* (repeating these 2 stitches between the *s) and then knit the last stitch. So the row begins with 2 stitches, then you repeat the 2 stitch combo 12 times. At this point, you should have worked 26 stitches and this leaves the last stitch to be knit.

Hello, I would like to knit this blanket using only one color of yarn.
I’m looking at using a machine washable yarn so this can be an everyday baby blanket and does not shed.The yarn I am considering ordering is either Purl Soho Cotton Pure, Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton or , Cascade Yarns Ultra Prima. Which one do you recommend? How many stitches would I need to cast for a crib blanket using the yarn you recommend? How many skeins would I need? Thanks for any guidance you can provide. I love your patterns — particularly the blankets.

Helo Susie,
Thanks for writing in and your kind words! I love this idea and I think it could be beautiful in all three of these yarns. It’s tricky to give you an exact estimate on cast on and amounts needed without a gauge swatch, but I’m happy to give you a rough estimate. Our Cotton Pure Yarn and Cascade’s Ultra Pima have the same gauge so depending on your needle size (I would suggest a US5 or US6) I would cast on approximately 145(Baby) 181(crib) 241(Throw). I would estimate that you will need 4 Skeins for the baby size 7 for the crib size and 12 for the throw size. Cascade’s Ultra Pima has about 40 less yards than our cotton pure so you might need to get an extra skein if using Pima.
Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton is a thicker yarn so, Again depending on the needle size (US 7 – 9) you end up using I would suggest casting on approximately 120(Baby) 150(crib) 200(Throw). I believe you would need about 5(baby), 7(Crib) or 12(Trow).

Before jumping in I would knit a gauge swatch so you know exactly how many stitches per inch you are getting. I hope all of this information makes sense and is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla

I am starting this blanket. I understand how to knit 1 below. However, at the beginning, I can’t seem to K1B on first row. Are you supposed to knit one row first? I have tried several times to K1B on first row, after casting on, and I can’t seem to get it to work. Thank you so much!

Thanks for writing in! We do not knit a row before beginning the k1b. Although it may seem a little awkward, you can k1b using the cast on. To do the k1b you’ll insert the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the next stitch from front to back, knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below) and let the stitch above fall from the left needle. This may look a bit tricky since it doesn’t look the way a “k1b” usually looks, however, you should be able to insert your needle into the next stitch of the cast on to achieve this technique.

Hello Kathleen,
Thanks for the question! I do not recommend wet blocking this yarn if you don’t have to. Steam blocking is your best option, so I’d give it a little steam and let it lay flat to dry. Best of luck!
-Marilla

Hello! Such a beautiful pattern, it will definitely be my next pattern. I do have a question though: do you have to cast on stitches by a certain multiple? I am looking to make this with a worsted weight yarn, so I know I’m going to have to cast on a lot more stitches. A lot of patterns will say “cast on x # of stitches, or any multiple of 6/even number/odd number (etc.),” is that important here, or will any number of stitches work out okay? I hope my question makes sense, and thank you in advance!

Thanks for writing in! Any odd number of stitches should work with this lovely pattern! Once you know your gauge using the stitch pattern, you can multiply the number of stitches by the number of inches wide that you would like the blanket and then cast on the nearest odd number!

I want to make this Beautyberry blanket as a scarf instead . Let’s say 8″ x 70″. So from all the comments I’ve read, I’m thinking I would cast on either 9 stitches or 11 stitches. Does that sound about right?
(I’m leaning towards 9 stitches since the iCord would add some additional width. Or maybe I should go with 7 stitches …)
Any guidance you can provide is appreciated.
Love your patterns.
Cat.

Should have also asked, for an 8″ x 70″ scarf, how much yarn would I need? …. 2 skeins color A and 1 skein color B??

I am going to be attempting this as a crib blanket but plan to try it out with lion brand super bulky weight yarn with size 13 circular needles. Wondering if you could advise on what length of yarn i would need to complete this as a crib blanket. Each skein has 81 yds. Thank you and so excited to make this blanket!

Our Gentle Giant has 48 yards per skein. If you can get gauge with the yarn you are substituting you will need about 250 yards of the main color and 100 yards for the contrasting color to make a crib blanket. I would recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure you can get gauge with your new yarn!