Yes it was on the aux switch, I did many test toggeling SL and watching the model return to level.

I wonder if the model is in a steady state fall where there is no angular change or acceleration if the sensors get confused.

The only other configuration check, what is your SL gain and limit? You are positive that you are on 1.4, this kind of behavior might be expected with 1.2 or 1.3, but 1.4. I'm starting to suspect a bad board.

The only other configuration check, what is your SL gain and limit? You are positive that you are on 1.4, this kind of behavior might be expected with 1.2 or 1.3, but 1.4. I'm starting to suspect a bad board.

rechecked, it is 1.4.
Self-level, P gain : 70, P limit : 30

I flew this board with 1.2 since it came out, and noticed nothing out of the ordinary.

I'm using a throtle curve in my quad like a heli. To be flat in the hover are... My question is: Some is using any other custom mix? Like Aile -> Thr & Elv -> Thr to increase the engines when you move you Aile or Elv stick to maintain the hover level?

the ZTW's work not bad non flashed but better flashed and seem to use less power as I get longer flight time with them SimonK'd, not a lot longer but notice that they take less ma's on recharge for the same time of flight. The tri has about 200 flights on it with about 25 of them SimonK'd. The hex is still an experiment at this time as I'm going from 9X4.5 props to 11X4.5 prop and a couple of different sizes in 10 inch as well so I won't make a comment on recharge ma as they take different power settings to fly depending on the size but the 10X4.5" look to be ideal size.

I did some more testing in the still early morning air. The results were the same, even worse. On the LAST flight I did a climbing 1/2 forward flip so the model was vertical with the nose down at 60 degrees, flipped into self level. The self level held that nose down position so strong I didn't have enough stick travel to override. I tried different throttle settings to see if it would have any effect, none other than more increased forward speed. I missed the switch to release auto level and it crashed very hard at that angle. I'm looking at a few days repair.

Usbap

With so many posts about flashing the KK2 I thought it time to share my experience. My first FC was a kk Black board and it came with a Usbap (bottom right in the pic) after many hours trying to get it working, love nor money was going to make it happen. My computer skills are.... well... average at best. I read pages and pages on a vast number of web sites, checked, checked and re-checked everything I could think of and finally gave up. I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed. I dont know if the crap one is from a bad batch, has a unique issue or even if it is the right one for the job but, IT DON'T WORK. So if you have one of these and you are having problems, this might be the answer you are looking for.

P.S. sorry bout the pic quality, its early morning here and the gopro has no flash.

Images

I thought 1.2 was good on my tricopter but 1.5 is just amazing.
The self level is mega fast and i now have my tilt gimbal working for the first time. Until now i have just had the camera on a switch to look up and down. I Can't wait until daylight to try the cam.

The only difference i noticed was in acro mode, my tricopter does not seem quite as stable as before and also seems more sensitive to stick inputs. I will play with stick scaling and PI gains to get it more 'locked in' while in acro mode.

Just need to add a roll servo next.

Images

With so many posts about flashing the KK2 I thought it time to share my experience. My first FC was a kk Black board and it came with a Usbap (bottom right in the pic) after many hours trying to get it working, love nor money was going to make it happen. My computer skills are.... well... average at best. I read pages and pages on a vast number of web sites, checked, checked and re-checked everything I could think of and finally gave up. I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed. I dont know if the crap one is from a bad batch, has a unique issue or even if it is the right one for the job but, IT DON'T WORK. So if you have one of these and you are having problems, this might be the answer you are looking for.

P.S. sorry bout the pic quality, its early morning here and the gopro has no flash.

No, the xwopen can be used with the kkflashtool or self compiled avrdude from latest svn. The only thing is that is a bit tricky to install the driver on windows. See the video on my FAQ to understand how to make it work. BTW on Mac you only plug it and select "any USBasp clone" in the tool. Linux needs a udev rule (just one line) to make it work.

I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed.

I'll be happy to second the notion that the HK USBasp programmer is great... the pre-configured cable makes short work of hooking it up to the kk2.0 board.

However, in my particular case, the programmer came without the jumper at J1 and when I first hooked up, I expected the LCD on the board to light up but got nothing, fine.... I turned the connector the other way around (as has been mentioned here many times) and tried again, still no light in the lcd. A quick check with my DMM showed that J1 was the pass through for 5V to the programming cable... rummage around in my junk box, got an old motherboard jumper and put it on and away things went. I've not heard of anyone else having the problem, but just in case, that is what the jumper at J1 is there for...