Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

2015 TRAPPS CLIFF PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE

Routes between and including the climb “MOONDANCE” (5.6) through to the climb “AFTER THE PRICK” (5.4) are closed as of March 25, 2015 and will remain in place until the fledging has been confirmed. This extends from the right side of the Slime Wall through the right side of Sleepy Hollow.

DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.

DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.

PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

The guidebook warns of loose rock on Wick's Banana and, having followed it once a few years ago, I would agree.

It's worth noting that there's a second crack through the overhangs further right, in the neighborhood of the exposed step-across on Arch. This is probably the 5.9- crux of Billy Shears and has no loose rock at all. It can be done as a direct finish to the first pitch of Arch, leaving you very close to a fixed anchor, and I would say it's worth doing. (The guidebook gives an NR (not recommended) to Billy Shears, which might be true.)

Not just a lot of loose rock, but dirt, sands, saps and all the other junks. If more people climb this route, it would be a lot cleaner. There is a lose dinner plate size flake right below the roof so be extra careful. The piton looks rusty, clip at your own risk. The climb itself is decent, worth doing if you just want to get a last climb in while you are in the area.

There are a lot of oddly sketch rocks up there, but this is a heck of a lot of fun. There are lots of spots right above the roof for pro. The rest of the climb is messy. I would warn people below. If you freak out, you can exit stage right and go home with your tail between your legs. :)