I lost an injector late last year. Due to the low sulfur fuel that we run. I'm now buying TC3W 2 cycle low ash oil as a fuel additive. Some folks have used the commercial additives and some folks have used Dextron as a additive.

Anyone else using additives to lubricate there fuel pumps and injectors?

I have done lots of research on this subject. Up here in Alaska our fuel is very dry especially in the winter months. I always use the cheap wally 2cycle oil at a mixture of 1qt per 50gal of fuel. I use this in all my Diesels and have never had injection issues. Two cycle oil is designed to mix and to burn, so I choose to use it over any other oils. Some states in the south use a bio blended fuel so you probably wouldn't need to add anything for lube if you have a good bio blend. Bio has the best lubrication on the wear scar tests I've seen. Using lube gives me piece of mind. If you want I might be able to find the lab tests of various lubes and post it up.

There is an article where they sent all the popular lubricity additives out to be independently tested in raw, unmodified diesel. There are a couple that work, many that don't, Optilube brand was the best additive, while the two stroke oil was definitely decent. By far the best was 2% bio, and since Canadian fuel has been 2% bio minimum by law for some time, I stopped thinking about it. If I am going to do a long run in the US, I'll probably add some two stroke oil since it's by far the easiest to get (like, walk out in my shop and take it off the shelf...)

I buy fuel at W/M most of the time it is blended with Bio if not I buy the 2 cycle oil from W/M,I know the new fuel is causing problems with the old 2 strokes injectors sticking and scoring because I have had a rash of those lately

Lin,You are correct, vegetable would make your fuel more like a bio blend. Which is the best lube you can get. There are some precautions to take... first you don't want your wife to catch you stealing her cooking oil out of the cabinet. Lol! The cost of buying off the shelf clean cooking oil can be expensive, you don't want to try and use it in colder climates because it will not solidify and you can plug up your filters and lines. If you get used vegetable oil, you need to filter it. Up here in the great north, I've found cheap 2cycle to be the most cost affective and I just pour it in the tank and go. If I lived down south, I'd try and use used vegetable oil at a heavier mix and filter it..

I don't wish to incur the problems that can be related to running vegetable oil in my engine. However, my thought was that 1 gallon of new oil to 50 would be to little to change anything. Am I wrong on this? As far as cost goes, it's really not that much more than diesel these days.

To add to the additive topic. After changing the transmission oil, I let some settle in gallon bottles, filtered it, and added it to the fuel at about 1 gallon per 100. Any problem with that?

Clifford, I would not doubt that there are really are differences. Aside from coconut oil being expensive though, it solidifies at around 75 degrees if it did not emulsify into the diesel, which it might. On the other hand, enough coconut oil would make a really sweet smelling exhaust.

I buy fuel at W/M most of the time it is blended with Bio if not I buy the 2 cycle oil from W/M,I know the new fuel is causing problems with the old 2 strokes injectors sticking and scoring because I have had a rash of those lately

When you say "old injectors", does that also include DDEC injectors? I've heard that they have even closer tolerances than MUI injectors - is that true?

Would not hurt John why do think DD just gives a 100,000 miles for warranty on injectors now because they know they will fail one injector on the road will cost you 1200 bucks installed for a series 60 BTDT $$$$