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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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FUEL PUMP The electric fuel pump is mounted at the bottom of the fuel tank, which consists of the armature, magnet, impeller, brush, check valve and relief valve . The ECM controls its ON/OFF operation as controlled under the FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM . When electrical energy is supplied to the fuel pump, the motor in the pump runs and together with the impel- ler . This causes a pressure difference to occur on both sides of the impeller as there are many grooves around it . Then the fuel is drawn through the inlet port, and with its pressure increased, it is discharged through the outlet port . The fuel pump has a check valve to keep some pressure in the fuel feed hose even when the fuel pump is stopped . Also, the relief valve is equipped in the fuel pump, which releases pressurized fuel to the fuel tank when the outlet of the fuel pressure has increased up to 450 -600 kPa (4.5- 6.0 kgf/cm2,64- 85 psi) . Relief valve Brush , ∎ I,’ Check valve Magnet L Armature When the impeller is driven by the motor, pressure differential occurs between the front part and the rear part of the blade groove as viewed in angular direction due to fluid friction . This process continuously takes place causing fuel pressure to be built up . The pressurized fuel is then let out from the pump chamber and discharged through the motor section and the check valve . FUEL SYSTEM AND THROTTLE BODY 5- 3 Inlet port I I Impeller 5-4 FUEL SYSTEM AND THROTTLE BODY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR The fuel pressure regulator consists of the spring and valve . It keeps absolute fuel pressure of 300 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2,43 psi) to be applied to the injector at all times . When the fuel pressure rises more than 300 kPa (3 .0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi), the fuel pushes the valve in the regulator open and excess fuel returns to the fuel tank . 90 Spring 02 Valve FUEL INJECTOR The fuel injector consists of the solenoid coil, plunger, needle valve and filter . It is an electromagnetic type injection nozzle which injects fuel in the throttle body according to the signal from the ECM. When the solenoid coil of the injector is energized by the ECM, it becomes an electromagnet and attracts the plunger. At the same time, the needle valve incorporated with the plunger opens and the injector which is under the fuel pressure injects fuel in conic dispersion . As the lift stroke of the needle valve of the injector is set constant, the volume of the fuel injected at one time is determined by the length of time during which the solenoid coil is energized (injection time)

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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1. Remove seat. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING To prevent spray of fuel, purge system of high-pressure fuel before supply line is disconnected. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00275a) 2. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gasoline. a. See Figure 4-36. Disconnect the fuel pump fuse from the main wiring harness. b. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to run. c. When the engine stalls, operate the starter for 3 seconds to remove any remaining fuel from the fuel lines. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 3. Disconnect negative battery cable. 4. Remove instrument console. a. All but FXSTD, see Figure 4-37. Remove acorn nut and washer on instrument console to separate console from fuel tank. b. For FXSTD, see 8.26 INSTRUMENT CONSOLE: FXSTD. 5. Disconnect console wiring. Figure 4-36. Fuel Pump Fuse: View From Top Figure 4-37. Acorn Nut And Washer: All But FXSTD s0660x8xx 7526
4-28 2007 Softail: Fuel System HOME 1 WARNING 1 WARNING Gasoline can drain from the crossover line when disconnected from fuel tank. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. Wipe up spilled fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. (00259a) 6. Drain fuel tank. a. Obtain a short section of hose (5/16 inch I.D.). Insert bolt in one end of hose and install hose clamp to ensure that end is securely plugged. b. See Figure 4-38. Cut clamp (1) from one end of crossover hose (2). Quickly replace crossover hose on fuel tank fitting with open end of short hose while directing flow of gasoline from free end of crossover hose into suitable container. 7. See Figure 4-39. Unplug fuel pump module connector (3) [86]. 8. Remove top plate screws (2) and discard. 9. See Figure 4-40. Pull top plate (2) out of fuel tank enough to expose fuel hose and clamp (1). CAUTION Carefully inspect end of hose for cuts, tears, holes or other damage. Replace hose if any damage is found. Even the smallest hole can cause a reduction in fuel pressure. 10. Cut clamp and remove hose from regulator housing fit- ting.

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INSTALLATION To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 2. Remove the currently installed fuel tank from the vehicle. Follow the instructions for the correct model vehicle under FUEL TANK: EFI, REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 3. See FUEL PUMP/FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, REMOVAL in the Service Manual for instructions to: a. Unplug the fuel pump module connector. b. Remove and discard the top plate screws. c. Remove the top plate, fuel pump and fuel level sender (fuel gauge sending unit) from the tank. NOTE Take care to avoid bending the fuel level sender float rod. A bent float rod will lead to erroneous gauge readings. 2 6 1 3 4 7 9 8 5 is05284 1. Fuel level sender 2. Electrical grounding tab 3. Fuel level sender lock tab 4. Adapter bracket 5. Slot (2) 6. Terminal strip insert 7. Sender to adapter lock tab 8. Slider 9. Adapter to tank lock tab Figure 1. Fuel Level Sender Assembly to Adapter – 4. See Figure 1. Clean the electrical grounding tab (2) on the back of the fuel level sender if necessary. The tab must make firm contact with the terminal strip insert (6) in the adapter bracket. Slide the original equipment (O.E.) fuel level sender (1) into the slots (5) in the new adapter bracket (4) as shown until the lock tabs (3 and 7) snap into place. Make sure the wire is not pinched between the adapter and sender. 5. See FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE/TUBE in the Service Manual. Remove the check valve/quick-connect fitting assembly from the old fuel tank, and assemble to the new tank, using a new O-ring (purchased separately). 6. Fit the slider (8) on the adapter bracket into the fuel level sender mounting channel inside the tank, and push down until the lock tab (9) snaps into place. Make sure the sender and adapter wires are not pinched between the adapter and the fuel tank tunnel, and remain accessible through the fuel tank top opening. 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the assembly of the top plate (1), regulator (2) and fuel filter (3) removed from the old fuel tank, and the stainless steel screw (8) and nut (9) provided in this kit.

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Installation NOTE When performing the following Steps, use the Fuel Tank Vent Valve Installation Kit (Part Number 91432-96Y). This kit consists of: * Fuel Tank Vent Valve Installation Aid * Fuel Tank Vent Valve Fitting Socket To protect against shock and accidental start-up of vehicle, disconnect the battery cables, negative cable first, before proceeding. Inadequate safety precautions could result in death or serious injury. Always disconnect the negative battery cable first. If the positive battery cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion which could result in death or serious injury. 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first. An open flame or spark may cause a fuel tank explosion if all traces of fuel are not purged from the tank. Use extreme caution when servicing fuel tanks. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks anywhere in the area when working on fuel system components. Inadequate safety precautions could result in death or serious injury. 2. Remove gas cap. 3. Carbureted Models: Drain fuel tank. Disconnect hose clamp and fuel supply hose from fuel supply valve and drain fuel into suitable, clean container. See applicable Service Manual, Section 4 for complete, detailed procedure. Fuel Injected Models: Relieve pressure from fuel system. See applicable Service Manual, Section 4 for complete, detailed procedure. Drain fuel tank. a. Using suitable external fuel pump, such as a Gas Caddy, pump fuel from tank and into a suitable, clean container. b. See instructions for external fuel pump for correct use. 4. See Figure 1. Cut cable tie securing vent hose to fitting and remove vent hose from fuel tank. Even with the fuel tank completely drained, a small amount of gasoline may leak from the bore when the fuel supply valve is loosened or removed. Thoroughly wipe up any fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a suitable manner. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions could result in death or serious injury. 5. If the fuel supply valve requires cleaning or repair, refer to applicable Service Manual, Section 4, for complete, detailed procedures. 6. See Figure 1. Remove the fuel filler cap and O-ring. 7. Remove the eight self-tapping screws from fuel clamp flange and remove fuel cap flange

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fuel injection (FI) systems have been around since the 1950′s and became widely used in cars during the 80′s. By the 1990′s all cars sold in the United States were equipped with FI systems, and though motorcycle manufacturers have included FI systems with some models as early as 1982, it isn’t until recently that the industry has seen wide spread use of FI. Since a lot of people come into my shop with questions about FI, I thought I would point out some of the differences between FI and carbureted systems as well as the benefits and disadvantages of both. A carbureted system is a mechanical system using air pressure to control the flow of fuel through the system. There are three basic parts in a carburetor, the throttle valve, the venturi and the float bowl. The throttle valve controls the amount of air that flows into the throat of the carburetor also known as the venturi which is simply a tapered hole through the carburetor body. As the venturi narrows, air moving through it is forced to speed up creating low pressure inside the carburetor. In a siphoning effect as the air tries to equalize the pressure, fuel is drawn in from the float bowl mixing with the air before entering the engine. The wider open the throttle valve, the more air will flow, drawing more fuel. A number of circuits are built into the carburetor in order to control the amount of air/fuel being drawn into the engine. In this context a circuit refers to a fuel passageway as opposed to an electrical circuit. In fact, nothing electrical controls fuel delivery in a carbureted system, it is all based on fluid flow, vacuum and hydraulics. The different circuits represent various throttle positions such as idle, partially open and fully open, and each of these circuits can be tuned to modify the efficiency of fuel delivery to the system. Fuel injection (FI) systems, on the other hand, rely on an electronic fuel pump to deliver fuel. The fuel pump delivers fuel at around 50psi as opposed to carbureted systems at normal atmospheric pressure of about 15psi. When the fuel reaches the injectors, the higher pressure allows much finer atomization (creating mist) of the fuel. The injectors then spray the atomized fuel into the intake manifold in a uniform conical pattern. The uniform pattern and fine atomization of the fuel spray increase the efficiency in which it is burned

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Removing the Analog Fuel Gauge NOTE The fuel gauge wires are routed through a tube in the fuel tank, and are secured by a clip at the bottom of the tank and, on some models, a clamp on the frame. Open the clip and clamp as needed, and be sure there is enough slack in the wires to be able to lift out the gauge. 1. At the bottom left side of the fuel tank, bend back the flexible clip slightly to free the fuel gauge conduit. Open the harness clamp on the frame if necessary to free the conduit. Gently pull on the conduit to draw the Multilock connector [117] out of the tunnel. 2. See Figure 2. Depress the pin on the socket terminal side of the connector, and pull apart the pin and socket halves. 3. See Appendix B in an appropriate Service Manual. Use a pick (Snap-On TT600-3 or equivalent) to remove the terminals or clip off the wires. Remove and discard the fuel gauge. 4. For Carbureted Models: See Figure 2. Remove the fuel gauge by firmly grasping and carefully pulling up (do NOT twist) on the gauge just far enough to free it from the fuel tank. Disconnect the two sending unit connectors. Feed the conduit and two wires up through the tube while removing the gauge. Remove and discard the fuel gauge. For Fuel-Injected Models: See Figure 2. Remove the fuel gauge by firmly grasping and carefully pulling up (do NOT twist) on the gauge to free it from the fuel tank. Feed the conduit and three wires up through the tube while removing the gauge. Remove and discard the fuel gauge. 5. Remove and discard the rubber gasket. INSTALLATION For Kit Numbers 75084-04B or 75237-03B 1. See Figure 2. Assemble the new gasket (3) to the LED fuel gauge (1) from the kit. Install the gasket so the flat side contacts the edge of the gauge. 2. See Figure 1. Use three of the Phillips-head screws and washers from the kit to connect the wires as follows: Fasten the Orange wire (1) ring terminal to the gauge connection marked “12V and “O” with a screw and washer. Fasten the Black wire (2) ring terminal to the connection marked “GND” and “BK” with a screw and washer. Fasten the Yellow/White wire (3) ring terminal to the connection marked “Y/W” with a screw and washer. 3. See Figure 2. While carefully lowering the fuel gauge, feed the wire harness (2) down into the drain tube until the three short (Orange, Black, Yellow/White) wires exit the hole at the bottom of the fuel tank. Gently pull the wires to remove slack while installing the gauge to the fuel tank. Do not twist the gauge during installation. Hold the gauge firmly and press down until it snaps into place

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers. Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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Fuel tank cap To remove the fuel tank cap 1. Open the fuel tank cap lock cover. 2. Insert the key into the lock and turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise. The lock will be released and the fuel tank cap can be removed. To install the fuel tank cap 1. Push the fuel tank cap into position with the key inserted in the lock. 2. Turn the key clockwise to the original position, and then remove it. 3. Close the lock cover. NOTE: The fuel tank cap cannot be installed unless the key is in the lock. In addition, the key cannot be removed if the cap is not properly installed and locked. WARNING EWA11140 Make sure that the fuel tank cap is properly installed before riding. EAU13211 Fuel Make sure that there is sufficient fuel in the tank. Fill the fuel tank to the bottom of the filler tube as shown. WARNING EWA10880 Do not overfill the fuel tank, otherwise it may overflow when the fuel warms up and expands. Avoid spilling fuel on the hot en- gine. 1. Fuel tank cap lock cover 2. Unlock. 1. Fuel tank filler tube 2. Fuel level
INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 3-8 3 CAUTION: ECA10070 Immediately wipe off spilled fuel with a clean, dry, soft cloth, since fuel may deteriorate painted surfaces or plastic parts. EAU43420 CAUTION: ECA11400 Use only unleaded gasoline. The use of leaded gasoline will cause severe damage to internal engine parts, such as the valves and piston rings, as well as to the exhaust system. Your Yamaha engine has been designed to use premium unleaded gasoline with a research octane number of 95 or higher. If knocking (or pinging) occurs, use a gasoline of a different brand. Use of unleaded fuel will extend spark plug life and reduce maintenance costs. EAU13442 Catalytic converters This vehicle is equipped with catalytic converters in the exhaust system. WARNING EWA10860 The exhaust system is hot after operation. Make sure that the exhaust system has cooled down before doing any maintenance work. CAUTION: ECA10700 The following precautions must be observed to prevent a fire hazard or other damages. Use only unleaded gasoline. The use of leaded gasoline will cause unrepairable damage to the catalytic converter. Never park the vehicle near possible fire hazards such as grass or other materials that easily burn. Do not allow the engine to idle too long.