Need some advice on my 04 WJ. 4 Wheel Drive with about 115,000 miles on it. Started noticing a little front end shimmy toward end of winter. I was due for new shocks and tires any so I installed a Skyjacker 2" frame lift kit with Hydro shocks, and new tires (factory optional size). At the same time I replaced the steering damper and I thought that would clear up the shimmy.

Everything seems fine but when I hit a bump that really lifts the front end it really gives a wicked shimmy. I rechecked all my connections and everything looks good. However, I notice that there is a lot of play in the tie rod connected to the steering damper. I can easily rotate forward and back (clockwise and counterclockwise).

I'm reviewing them now. The most cited culprit is the track bar, though everyone is mentioning that I need to inspect all the arms and look for any sign of wear, ie: shiny areas showing in the ball joints. I'm going to crawl under it this weekend and investigate further. Appreciate your comment though. I was surprised I hadn't heard from anyone.

I'm reviewing them now. The most cited culprit is the track bar, though everyone is mentioning that I need to inspect all the arms and look for any sign of wear, ie: shiny areas showing in the ball joints. I'm going to crawl under it this weekend and investigate further. Appreciate your comment though. I was surprised I hadn't heard from anyone.

Not only look for anything shiny, if you can move them by hand then they need to be replaced.

i would go more with your upper bushings are shot. i know the wobble you are talking about i still have it and i have replaced every single part up front but the upper bushings. there going to be a pain in the azz to change. just wait till they get real bad you wont wanna drive any more lol. good luck check em out there cheap like ten bucks a part, but you have to press them out of your axle.

I did replace the right hand upper control arm bushing from the axle. To get it out is not that bad, you only need to make a tool made from 2 1/2 " pipe (i used an exhaust pipe), a 40cm threaded rod with 2 nuts and some washers bigger then the pipe. For the right hand side you also need to have some metal block which you can put into the hollow arm on the axle, to prevent squeezing the hollow arm. I didnīt use it in the first place and ended up deforming the arm a bit.The bigger problem was to fix the new bushing in place. You should bend the part sticking out a bit so that it wonīt come out, but my new bushing has such a thick metal, that i was unable to bend it. 3 small welds evenly devided will help.

You just have to jack up the front to get enough clearance for the replacement. I didnīt do the left hand side, but the eye which is holding the bushing is solid overthere and that would make it somewhat easier i think. Donīt know if you get enough clearance just jacking it up, because the eye is on top of the diff.