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Saturday, May 30, 2009

HOW TO GO GREEN WITHOUT LOOKING TATTERED

These haute couture gowns by Morgan Boszilkov of Natural Bridals are eco-friendly and 5% of all profits go to environmental causes.

Okay so there's nothing wrong with the tattered look. IsseyMiyake was an innovator with it and his ripped apart chic still carries an almost haunting beauty thirty years hence. But have you noticed whenever a designer adds some green to a bridal collection, the gowns sometimes . . . well . . . all look a bit tattered and Miyakesque? So where do you start if you're seriously pondering green-friendly alternatives on your wedding day and still want to look like a bride? It's a loaded question so we'll begin with what makes for an eco-friendly fiber.

Going Green usually (though not always) can mean wearing a dress in natural fibers: organic cotton, wool, linen, silk, and of course, hemp. New fibers coming out even have bamboo, milk and soy in them. It helps to have a knowledge of the natural dying process and thinking through what impact toxic dyes might have on the environment. Here are a few questions worth asking: Is that silk I love really its natural color? If it is tinted, was it done with non-toxic dye? Is that snow white silk taffeta chlorined? And was that cotton grown free of pesticides? In the UK alone according to 2006 statistics, clothing and textiles contributed in producing up to two million tons of waste, 3.1 million tons of CO2 and 70 million tons of waste water. Have we become so used to fast food, fast technology and now fast fashion that we've created a manufacturing Goliath like this? Many designers have wised up lately reserving a portion of their collection for eco-conscious designs (moi included). Some are even using sustainable fabrics only, making sure they were produced under humane conditions at fair market wages. Although I've been getting some great press lately about offering green-friendly alternatives in my collection, I'm not as exclusively green as I’d like to be. One day we will all be green; till then here's what you could look for when buying green or having a green gown designed:

1.) Look for sustainable fabric. Custom and eco-friendly designers can source just about any sustainable fabric a client wants. I've been using the best supplier for twenty-some years. Dharma's been around and bright green since way back when hippies were popular.

2.) Good designers aren't afraid to experiment with new and unusual fabrics. Keep an open mind.

3.) Look for a designer unafraid of making necessary changes. Starting now and next season I plan on replacing most of the crinoline underskirts with 100% cotton organdy. Most designers are making similar changes.

4.) I’m discovering certain fabrics like bamboo/cotton have just the right under structure to make great linings and feel good against the skin. Plus, little beknownst to most, bamboo has anti-bacterial properties which contribute to controlling body odors.

5.) Lately I've been studying up on upcycled fabrics. I’m fascinated by the new interest so many of my clients have in upcycling. Upcycling is a trendy term for reusing garments or fabrics that already exist. Last season a client brought me an exquisite antique tablecloth and asked me to fashion her wedding gown out of it. I was awestruck. First by the cloth. It was an allover and rare Cluny Lace. Ten years ago this would have been considered by most as ‘chintzing it’ on your wedding day whereas these days it is not only applauded but even considered a sentimental gesture—in my client’s case—the tablecloth was lovingly left to her by her great-grandmother.When it comes to bridal wear, there's still nothing like silk. Certain weaves and finishes go in and out of style over the years but overall silk rules. Some designers are switching suppliers and looking toward Europe where silks are also manufactured. Italian silks are the apex right now and quite expensive. Though primarily woven by robots, no human or animal is working under hazardous conditions. Factory windows aren't left gaping in sub-tropical climates and insects are not getting squished between the slubs of fabric. Fabrics these days come in the same flavors as your favorite beans, plants and dairy products. Just learned my agent personally travels to China and makes sure the workers operate in a well maintained, healthy and safe environment, are treated with respect, paid fairly and have health insurance, sick and maternity leave benefits, etc. That made me feel pretty good. Another thing I want to reiterate here when going green is to keep an open mind, it is an entirely different concept than the consumerism we were born into and one we need to explore and take seriously in order to reverse some of the damage we've done to our planet. . .

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About Me

I initially created this space for my clients. Eventually brides looking for that touch of wow found their way here. Draping and playing with fabric started some twenty years back when I did a three-year stint as a bridal fabrics buyer. After that I opened Bridal Alternatives, a custom design studio and ever since have had the opportunity of working with brides who want that extraordinary one-of-a-kind dress. I'm in love with fashion history and re-invention of the past.
Other connections to fashion? I’ve been a columnist for San Francisco Art and Fashion News and have a weekly fashion buzz on One Wed Blog. I founded The Design Project of San Francisco, a networking organization of fashion professionals collaborating their skills and talents on projects. I’m currently working on a book called—you guessed it—'Bride Chic', all about that white gown and very special designer/client relationship. I live with my husband Edgar and Chihuahua Piccalina in Marin County California.
Want to see more of what I do? Check out my site at www.amyjotatum.com or call me 415.336.3480

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DISCLAIMER

Please note some images on Bride Chic are photos from previous shoots and editorials of my collection pieces. Since I do admire other designers work, I’ve also added from online sources to share a different perspective. There’s no profit from the display of these photos -- they are being shown for the informational and educational benefit of brides and aficionados of bridal fashion. I always list my source, providing a link back. If you feel an image here violates your intellectual property and/or copyrights, please email your concerns to me (amyjotatum@gmail.com) and I will gladly remove the photos in question. Thank you!

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