2. Stripping a '90 Plymouth Laser Turbo FWD

Bought the engine donor from ebay for $1000 before I realized I would end up making the Colt project AWD. I drove this car home and the ECU fried the next day, but the engine was in great shape. PA car, very rusty, this one took 4 hours because I took a dinner break.

Porting wastegate / flapper garrett t3
This is a work on a t3 garret.
the point is to enlarge the flapper hole of the wastegate flapper and
increase the opening angle of this flapper to allow more gas flow.
This mod help to counter the Boost
creep or the runaway of the turbine and the adverse consequences on the turbo and the "breathing" of a stock turbo working at higher pressure that it
was originally made for.

6. 4g63 longblock assembly
All parts ordered and accounted for. Bagged, tagged and marked with torque
specs. Assembly took 2.5 hours... but the 14 hours of prep work, 2 weeks
in a machine shop, and wrong-parts-delivered fiascoes straightened out
prior to assembly.

Block Preparation Part 2 - 1gina2g Timing Side
RRE Method: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm
Magnus Method:
http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf
Technically, I'm doing the Magnus method, but my wiring will be very
different.
All 1g cars use the same water pump, and naturally they use the same water
pump bolts as well. I use the 1g tensioner arm because it clears the water
pump without any grinding of either one of those parts.
1g Water Pump
MD972052
1g Water Pump Bolts
MF140022
MF140026
MF140028
MF140029
MF140238
1g Timing Tensioner Arm
MD130032
This 2g timing mount assembly includes a tensioner arm, washer, pivot bolt,
idler pulley and bolt.. You won't need the included tensioner arm with my
method. It doesn't come with the studs on the top, so you'd need to buy a
pair of those.
Complete 2g Timing Mount Assembly
MD189172
Engine Mount Studs
MD184155 x2
Depending on whether you're installing a 1g 6-bolt or a 1g 7-bolt engine
block in your 2g chassis, you're going to need the front case and hydraulic
tensioner that matches the block you're using.
Front Case Assemblies
MD129347 (6-bolt straight cut gears)
MD175762 (6-bolt helical cut gears)
MD327450 (7-bolt helical for 1g block)
1g Hydraulic Tensioner
MD164533 6-bolt
MD308586 7-bolt
1g Hydraulic Tensioner Bolts
MD129350 x2 6-bolt
MD190987 x2 7-bolt
You can modify a 2g lower timing cover to make it fit, but it won't line up
around the bottom of the front case. That's why I use the 1g timing cover,
and modify it to fit the 2g middle cover.
Since you need metal covers against the block to have something to bolt the
plastic parts to, let's start with those. The rear metal cover that bolts
to the head is exactly the same part for both 1g and 2g cars. With my
method, you need to use the 2g front metal cover in order to line up with
the 2g middle plastic cover. So all of the plates that bolt to my swap are
from a 2g.
1g2g Timing Middle Cover, Rear (metal)
MD127142
2g Timing Middle Cover, Front (metal)
MD187283
2g Timing Lower Cover, Rear (metal)
MD199941
For the plastic part of the covers, my method dictates that you use the 1g
lower timing cover assembly. This lines up all of the bolt holes and makes
it fit around the bottom of the front case where the oil pan is. If you
modify the lower cover to fit with the middle 2g cover, you won't need to
trim anything else.
The upper timing cover you need may depend on which head and valve cover
you're using.
Lower Timing Cover Assembly
MD141454 1g 6-bolt block
MD193995 1g 7-bolt block
2g Middle Timing Cover Assembly
MD191811 - 9401.1-9606.3
MD191807 - 9607.1-9912.9
Upper Timing Cover WITH Rubber Gaskets
1g - MD141457 6-bolt head
1g - MD188127 7-bolt head
2g - MD198031
This is a good place to transition into the rubber parts because the rubber
pieces are very different for the 1g and 2g upper timing covers. If you
don't want a rattling, buzzing, noisy valve cover sounding off with every
vibration from your car, you should replace all of the rubber. It dry rots
and turns hard. If you bought a complete 1g engine gasket set and you have
both timing covers already, then you should have the 1g portion of these
rubber gaskets included in your gasket set.
If you've already got both generations of the timing covers like I do, and
no good rubber gaskets, then order all of these parts and stop the rattles.
However, if you bought any of the plastic timing cover parts new from the
dealer, then those plastic parts come with the rubber gaskets included.
You can eliminate them from your order.
MD006665 1g*
MD156770 1g*
MD188122 2g
MD188831 2g
MD191502 2g
* If you bought a complete 1g plastic lower
timing cover, you don't need the 1g gaskets.
Upper Timing Cover Gaskets by themselves...
1g - MD031235 & MD122058 6-bolt head
1g - MD188123 & MD188124 7-bolt head
2g - MD188122
Now for the last part. Fasteners. These are all of the upper, middle and
lower timing cover bolts whether they bolt down metal or plastic parts.
I've included their lengths and diameters so you can identify them.
All Timing Cover Bolts
MF140216 x1 6x45 (middle cover)
MF140202 x4 6x10
MF140206 x9 6x18
MF140209 x2 6x25
MF140210 x2 6x28
MF247868 x2 6x25
MD131417 x2 6x16

3. Stripping a AWD Eagle Talon
This car was given to me in trade for fixing someone's car. It had a
trashed head and good shortblock, but I wanted the drivetrain. I needed
everything. I took it all. I had a spare head and could have just fixed
it, but the Colt said "no".

Driving to work in my 1958 Plymouth - Christine's on the road again!
This is me and Christine on my way to work. It's just a short trip to test
my new camera. Finally I'm able to do HD videos. Sorry, I still can't
afford a GoPro! :)
If you're a fan of the movie "Christine" or 1957 / 58 Plymouths in general
don't forget to join the International Christine Club.
More information here:
http://www.internationalchristineclub.net

Making The Left One Watch [AppleJuice remix]
Here's what I did with the rear wheel well on the passenger side. It's
pretty much the same procedure as the left one, but due to the location of
the fuel filler door, the trimming of the wheel well skin had to be done
differently.
This is a long and arduous task, but I felt it was necessary because I
wanted to be able to easily fit standard parts in the rear, and other
solutions involved welding things to the shocks to make them fit which
complicates service and replacement. Moving both the height and location
of the upper strut perch allowed me the clearance I needed between the tire
and the springs, while allowing me to use any rear suspension assembly from
the AWD '91-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Talons or Lasers. I had investigated
all other options and found this to be the easiest long-term solution to
that problem since I had all the tools necessary to do this.
It took me just under a month to do this in what little free time I can
muster. Shooting video slowed the project to a snail's pace because I only
have the hard drive space to edit an hour and a half at a time and it takes
twice as long to edit and export what I've shot. With the project spanning
over 30 hours, I had to call professional help on the audio track. The
tune is an original piece by RojoDelChocolate, and the samples are from
DayjobOrchestra. Two individuals who have kept me highly entertained over
the years. Please check them out because they're good people.

2g GSX How-To: Attempting turbo swap with WTF ending
Okay. Now I've seen it all. There's an old adage that states "if you want
something done right, you have to do it yourself". Well, this video both
confirms and debunks that theory. A lot of that depends on each person's
definition of "done right". You can't do things by-the-book with
aftermarket hardware.
Sheldon bought this car with a pretty full mod list and it ran great at the
time, but by the time we got it to the track, we couldn't beat a 16-second
pass. Despite the laundry list of troubleshooting we both attempted to do
through tuning and testing, we couldn't determine why it was around 4
seconds slower than it should be running. I started having doubts that a
"ported T-28" was what was on the car, and there's no easy way to tell them
apart without removing it so we opted to install a 14b... since plenty of
people easily run 13's with them. Stick around for the plot twist.