Just got a 72 Luder's 36 Sloop (plan A) .. inherited her after some idiot tied her off to a pier with a line around the primary port winch... which of course snapped the coaming board and also broke the winch support... new coaming boards all around are coming.... but anybody have any idea where I can get a new (vintage) Barlow winch support that matches the design?

Also looking for any resource to find the original ship manuals and schematics... plumbing plans would be nice, huh?

Sailing out of Narragansett Bay this summer.. planning a trip to Vinal Haven and Bar Harbor... love to connect with other owners!

So we now have the water tanks completed. After looking at all the options like tearing out the existing fiberglass and making a new stainless one, or just putting in a bladder we just decided the best and most cost effective thing would be to just paint it with a food safe paint. aquatapoxy I believe its called. Rated for the size of our tank and approved by the NSF. And the best part is it only cost around $100. Far cheaper than the other options! They are done now and look great. There is only the old fiberglass underneath which should have leached all its bad chemicals by now and new NSF approved paint on top.

I am wondering about the diameter of my rigging. I do not know the wrap/core count, but the stays appear to be 3/16" dia. I have a Luders 36 ketch, wood masts. I bought the boat a year ago, working on it now. Did not ask previous owner about the rigging and am now wondering if I should be using 1/4" dia.? Any thoughts?

The rigging on my boat is 1/4. Since I am planning on doing extensive offshore with the boat I called a rigger and had him come down to look over the boat with me. He said that the 1/4 wire would be fine, no point in going any larger. However I may go a size larger and get 5/16, just for that little extra boat upside down in a storm strength. The most important thing to remember is that the wire almost never fails it’s usually always the fittings. All a larger wire really does is give you a stronger fitting.

And about the NSF I guess this is one of those things that you need to say the whole thing otherwise it means something totally different. It’s actually ANSI/NSF Standard 61. And the product is aqutapoxy. I think it may be the only one rated for 100 gallons or more. Most are for water tanks you can walk around inside of, definitely not mine.

My vessel is the s/v Annelise - a 1972 Luder's 36 that I base in Narragansett Bay, RI. She has sailed from China to the South Seas to Mexico and San Fransico... trucked here a a few years ago looking Bristol and then was neglected. She has a brand new Yanmar3GM 40hp and new sails & rigging, refridgeration, diesel forced hot air, holding tank, hot and cold running water, shower, incredible workm drive Alpha autopilot, windlass and more. Love this boat... she's fast and solid as a rock on any heading. That being said, given that she was a no-holds barred beauty when she was built.. she HAD the good old Cheoy Lee Leaky Teaky Decks.... it's the kind of thing that makes you wonder how the Chinese ever surpassed us in the manufacturing world... 2 1/2" plank core in the deck with 50 zillion screws holding down the teak. ... needless to say, the dilapidated deck destroyed the value of the boat.. good for me in acquiring it, but a labor of love in owning here... I plan to do the Azores on this boat, so I am going through it thoroughly. I have pulled the teak decks off, repaierd the delamination we found on the Stbd sidewalk, laid a new layer of Divinicyl core and am 70% through laying an 1/8' "skin" to seal it in and paint with AwlGrip primer and non-skid. What a freakin experience.

I am blessed to have the boat indoors in a shop for the last 7 months.

The website we're building uses HTML 5 so you need a newer broweser to view it ... it's also here: Joe Andrade

Well. I am happy to share images, info, etc with ya'll and look forward to hearing from you.. we need to plan a raft up next season for all us New England folks, and that should get the group more involved in communicating.

Oh.. the 2 1/2 " measurement was the width of the boards they used for core material. and teak or mahogany would be too oily for the resin to adhere to, so it's a material more like pine. they run the length of the deck between the fiberglas layers of the one piece trunk-cabin-deck molding.

I you have to repair your decks .. i am assuming you have teak as well, you have to get to the deck below to fix any delamination issues, clean it up, and prep it for GLUEING down new teak.. nobody in their right mind puts 10,000,000 holes in a perfectly good deck anymore. Essentially, whatever you do, much of the process I just went through is probably part of what you need to do to rebuild your decks... I used a layer of core to create strength, bring the level of the deck back to where it was when the teak was new, and to make the deck impermeable to any water problems if a fitting leaks or a new hole is pierced in the skin. ( I also got a great insulation solution and with glass decks I can travel the tropics without burning my feet on the teak all the time... have you ever fried eggs on a teak deck beforeo? It CAN be done... and the artificial stuff is just as bad I hear). if you want to send me some pics of your decks I can give you some other feedback on what I see.. the critical element is: how old are they and how much teak is left to "fix".

Quick update: only 10 square feet to go and all the core will be sealed in by at least the first layers of the top skin... hope to be priming and sanding end of the week.

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