It's getting close to summer time and I am preparing my equipment for mowing and garden chores that are just around the corner.

Winter here has been pretty bad and warm weather is definitely welcome.

I have a Yanmar YM2000 and I want to change out my hydraulic fluid. I plan to drain it and my manual says it requires 16qts. I am going to assume that 16qts without a front end loader.

My question(s) are: Should I add more to compensate for the front end loader? I know that all of the fluid is not going to drain out but would it be OK to add a little extra?

I believe it requires JD 303 spec type fluid?

I know it is a little low on fluid, when the 3pt hitch is raised the front end loader is slow and not very responsive, however when the 3pth hitch is lowered (when I am mowing) the loader works like a charm.

I am just ready to get mowing. I don't get to use the tractor much in the winter. My thought is that if it is too cold for my tractor, it's too cold for me.

You are not going to be draining all the fluid out of the loader cylinders and hoses but I wouldn't worry about what is left in them. Just retract the cylinders when doing the change. When the cylinder rods are fully extended you will be at your lowest fluid level in your transmission reservoir. I usually check my level at that point and again when cylinders are fully retracted. Your level will be a little higher in that position. I try to have my level a little high when in the retracted position and a tad low when in the extended position. A tad high or a tad low is going to be OK. Hope this makes sense to you. You are correct on the hydraulic/transmission fluid type.

Winston thanks for the help. I will do that when I drain it out. I checked it yesterday and it was full, but it was kinda milky. I figured that I would drain it and fill with new, and then later in the summer do it again to flush some of it out.

The manual says 16qts but who knows. I have had some trouble with the fluid capacities and this guide, they don't always match.

A bit off topic, but, I have changed the oil in this tractor, and the same guide says 5 qts. Skeptic I put 4qts in and the dipstick reads full. Anyone who has a YM2000, how many qts of oil do you use in your oil change?

The previous owner didn't really take care of this tractor much and I am trying to clean up the mess.

I use 4 qts. in my engine and a 5 gallon bucket for the trans/hyd. I just had to put new seals in the loader valve and the old man at the industrial supply told me to switch to synthetic 0 or 5 weight fluid and to put a filter on the pump supply line. Mine is a 240d with loader.

I also noticed that weight on the 3pt will slow down the loader a bit. Seems logical.

I can't find a large amount of syn. hydraulic fluid anywhere local. I did find a filter and some compression fittings for the metal supply pipe. Supply pipe is 7/8" if anyone else does this. I am going back for fluid tomorrow but here is a look at it. 3/4" NPT filter has a flow raring of 9 gpm when use on supply side. I grabbed the 10 micron filter but they had a 25 micron for same price. Cost me $16 for the filter base, $5 for the filter and 2x compression fittings $6 each. Call it a $35 project. Took an hour maybe.

I pulled the original filter screen in the tranny so I don't have to go there again.

I'm certainly no lubricant guru so take this with a grain of salt. I think the old man with the synthetic oil advise is wrong. To many folks using recommended fluid or ATF with good results. Just my opinion.

Looks like a good choice of lubricant to me. As far as the grind I am not exactly sure what you are experiencing. I'm thinking like the clutch is not completely releasing and as you move the shift lever it grinds a little. I don't understand the connection with the grind and the lift or loader being up. Maybe you could elaborate a little more?

Is your transmission fully synchronized? If not, the grind that you're hearing are the gears meshing until engaged. The reason that moving to another gear and no grind would be that the gears are not spinning and don't have to be meshed while still spinning.

Yes, that makes good sense. I had a little Farmall Cub and could never get it where it wouldn't do that. In your case though, if you haven't already, check your clutch pedal freeplay. You should have 9/16" to 1" freeplay at the top of your movement. I would shoot for the 9/16". Less freeplay, the more you are mashing your clutch fingers to release. For some reason you are picking up a little drag and the clutch shaft #12 is continuing to rotate a little until you stop it with the gear mesh. These old Yanmar transmissions are all straight spur gears and no syncromesh to them. http://www.hoyetractor.com/mm5/merch...de=2000CLUTCHB

Thanks for the confirmation of the gear synchronizers fellas. I had a feeling, but didn't know. My JD950 is Yanmar built and doesn't have synchronizers either. I thought that I'd take a chance on being right.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

OR

Log-in

User Name

Password

Remember Me?

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.