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Thanks, I will look for the fuse. I don't have the OP manual. Is the fuse easy to recognize? I also might mention that a couple of weeks before it quit welding, the charging system on the engine stopped charging the battery and I had to put a battery charger on it to keep the battery charged. Would that be relevant?

Maybe some of the experts can weigh in I don't know about the battery charger. I had to order a voltage regulator for the one I used to have there not to high. Look on the site here I believe its resources put your serial number or model name in the manuals are free. On the fuses just pull your top cover you'll see two fuses in a block could be bad connection or blown fuse I believe 20 or 25 amp 250 volt . There's also a a small flat fuse inline in the wiring back towards the engine end. It shows all the fuses in the manual if you can't find the manual post your model and serial number and I will post the URL for the manual.

I found the D4 Diode in the ignition circuit next to the F2 Fuse to be bad. Can anyone tell me what size diode or part number or whatever to ask for at a electrical supply? The Miller agent here doesn't have them. The F2 fuse blows instantly whenever the engine is started. Would this cause my run but no weld or charge problem?

6 amp 600 volt (from parts list) However if that is blown, your control bridge is likely the culprit. so get yourself that diode and a 35 amp 800 volt control bridge. All in all around the $30 mark for both.