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Sunday, March 12, 2017

Butterick 5678 + Vogue 7700 = Mashup x Three

This is my third version of the button down shirt mash up. Halfway through finishing my second version I knew I wanted more. I thought two more but the fabric I used for this one pretty much squashed making a fourth one right away because this fabric was so needy.Here is my finished garment ~

I started with another precut from Fabric Mart. I bought this one because I thought it was pretty on FM's site but it was stunning when it arrived. It had a really soft hand even after washing.

I'm enamoured of these precuts because they are bright, floral and/or print and 2, 3 or 4 yard cuts. I've bought quite a few and all of my recently made button downs are from precuts, as well as, my version of Vogue 8772.Since this fabric was soft I needed to add a lot of support to it. It frayed when you looked at it. It was limp and it pulled out of shape with handling. So I added lightweight fusible interfacing to shoulder seams and the Design Plus fusible tape to the necklines and button placket to stabilize the plackets for the piping I added.

The piping was a major part of this button down. After making the blue and white one that had piping on the collar and cuffs, I realized I really wanted the piping down the button blacket too. So for this one I set out to pipe the collar, cuffs and button placket.

Adding piping to the button band ~

I added the piping by cutting off fold over portion of the blouse front on the left side only and added a 5/8" seam allowance to the front piece.

For the new fold over portion, I added a 5/8" seam allowance to it.

The fusible bias tape was added to the edges that were being piped.

Piping was basted to each edge. Then the pieces were sewn together.

I folded it together to make the button placket, pressed and topstitched it down.

The cuffs were made the same way that I made them in this post. Adding the piping definitely lengthened the amount of time it took to make the shirt. Otherwise the construction process was exactly the same as the last two except there is quite a bit more handstitching involved in this one.Here is a close up of the vintage buttons that I used on the front of the button down.

A few pictures of the finished button down ~

This shirt is worn with a RTW tank top

and a RTW denim skirt purchased from Jessica London

Conclusion ~This fabric was so needy that halfway through the construction, I'd sworn off making any more button downs any time soon. Then in this month's Threads, there is an article about how to add binding and ribbon to button down collars and cuffs and I got the fever again.So I probably have another one or two I want to make before the weather turns really warm...and I'm kicking around an idea about lengthening the pattern pieces to dress length. We will see what actually comes out of the sewing cave. I won't say that I'm not going to use this pattern mashup again soon since I have a list of items in my head that I need to work on.More tops are up next on the blog....as always more later!

24 comments:

Wow Carolyn, this is really your look! I like the open shirt over a tank on you and it has more pazazz than a regular cardigan. I think you would look great in a shirt dress too. These shirts you have been making are great spring looks.

I agree that sewing needy fabrics can be a bit of a pain but they also make me feel quite proud that I tamed them into submission. So you should also feel proud and admire your lovely shirt every time you wear it -well done! Karen

Another hit Carolyn! Since you mentioned making a dress length version of this button down--and with warmer weather on the horizon--and the fact that I get a great deal of my sewing influence through bloggers like you--how about a dress (above knee) length with shirt tail hem in striped chambray with cuffs and collar in coordinating color? Just throwing it out there...lol.

I agree Carolyn. My sewing room has been on lock down (remodeling, time constraints) for the last six months (hopefully up and running by April). This is why I live (and sew) vicariously through my fave bloggers. Believe me, I have a sewing projects laundry list a mile long.

I love this so much! The piping adds so much character to the top and is a nice contrast to the floral design. And that color looks amazing on you! I think I have a cut of this. I certainly remember adding it to my cart in the past, but I add lots of things to my cart that end up not making it to my house. I'm still going through all my boxes of fabric and pre-washing them all before I put them away in my new sewing room and I haven't located it yet.

MizzSmartyPants - laughing at the adding to the cart and taking out of the cart thing. I've been known to do that a time or two! Good luck with getting your new sewing room set up and getting the fabric put away. Hopefully you do have a piece of this in your collection.

Love the shirt on you, and the piping. Something to consider as I have Janet Prey's men's and women's shirt patters from the Islander Sewing System and I am getting ready to make more shirts for Charles and some for me, without pins!. I too am obsession over the collar trimming techniques in the new THREADS magazine. Charles says "No!" but I will figure out a way to use the technique on a future print shirt pattern, with solid trim.