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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

This is the latest of the plushies I've been working on. Sonic came out better than I had thought it would at first, and for *once* I'm really kinda pleased with how his face came out. I'm really not very good at the faces, but I think Sonic's turned out pretty spiffy for a change :D

I've tried to include pictures that will help you as you're putting him together, the hair/spikes look alot more difficult than they are, just take your time and pin them all on before you sew them down to make sure you're pleased with the overall look first, and it comes together pretty easily.

I've had a really ugly cold all week, so I hope there aren't any mistakes or typoes in the pattern, I've checked it through several times and I *think* it's all there and in order, but if you run into a problem or typo, or just get confused, let me know and I'll fix it as quickly as I can :)

Materials:

WW yarn in blue, tan, red and white
G Hook
Fiberfill
Small amounts of felt in white, green black and tan
Sewing needle and thread to match yarns and felts

NOTES:

Gauge isn't terribly important, as long as your hook and yarn choices result in a tight even stitch so that the stuffing won't come through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

I prefer to join my rounds and the pattern was designed by joining rounds. If you prefer working in continuous rounds, that will work, but your results may be a little different from the dolls shown.

I highly recommend using a good sewing thread and strong sewing needle to sew your doll parts together. This will create a more pleasing seam/joining with less bulk. Thread also allows you to make small adjustments during the sewing process that yarn cannot do.

I also recommend using the 'invisible decrease' method when working with dolls like this. Simply make your decrease stitches the same as you normally do, only work them through the 'FRONT LOOPS only'. Work all your other sc's through both loops, only work the decrease stitches through the front loops. This isn't completely invisible, but it does *greatly* reduce the unsightly gaps that standard decrease stitches will cause when working in the round and making repeated decreases.

Please read through entire pattern and assembly before you begin, to help you to understand the process.

BODY:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (49)
Rnd 8-12: sc in each sc around (49)
Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35)
(begin stuffing here if you haven't already - stuff moderately firm, continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 15: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)
Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)
Rnd 17: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14)
Rnd 18: dec over next 2 sc around (7)
F/O and leave a tail. Add any stuffing needed to finish out the shaping. Weave tail through last round and pull gently to close. Secure and weave in ends.

TAN BELLY SPOT:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)
F/O and weave in ends. Pin to center of body as shown and carefull sew down. (I chose to use the 'back' of the body to add the belly spot to, it leaves the 'nicer' beginning rounds exposed at the back, and the spot covers any irregularities that occur when making repetitive decreases.)

HEAD:

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (35)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (49)
Rnd 8: sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (56)
Rnd 9: sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (63)
Rnd 10-13: sc in each sc around (63)
Rnd 14: sc in next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (56)
Rnd 15: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (49)
Rnd 16: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (42)
Rnd 17: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (35)
(begin stuffing here if you haven't already - stuff moderately firm, continue stuffing as you progress)
Rnd 18: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (28)
Rnd 19: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (21)
Rnd 20: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (14)
Rnd 21: dec over next 2 sc around (7)
F/O and weave in ends. Add any stuffing that might be needed to finish the shaping. There is no real need to close up the hole at the neck.

MUZZLE:

*using tan*

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last st (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts (16)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 3 sts (20)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 4 sts (24)
Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in last 5 sts (28)
Rnd 7: slip stitch in next 6 sts, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, slip stitch in last 6 sts (36 - 12 slip stitches, 12 sc, 12 dc)
F/O. Weave in ends. stuff light to moderately.

NOSE:

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around (4)
F/O. Stuff loose ends into nose (that should be about enough stuffing for it)

EARS:
(make 2)

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (14)
F/O weave in ends. Cut a triangle shape from tan felt and sew to inside of front of ear as shown. *VERY* lightly stuff the ear, only just enough to give it the shape, without overstuffing.

HANDS/ARMS:
(make 2)

Begin at hand with white.

Rnd 1: 7 sc in magic ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3-9: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 10: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)
Rnd 11: Working in front loops only, 2 sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 12-13: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 14: slip stitch in each sc around (24)
F/O, weave in ends.

Begin arm:

Rnd 1: Attach tan yarn to any free loop on hand from round 11. Sc in same loop as join. Sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc, * sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc * repeat from * to * around (9)
Rnd 2-14: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 15: stuff arm light to moderately to shape, but not overstuff. Hand is very lightly stuffed if desired. Flatten end of arm and sc through all layers across end. (4)
F/O weave in ends.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (20)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 6-11: sc in each sc around (24)
Rnd 12: sc in each sc around, do not join round, ch 1 and turn (24)
Rnd 13-15: repeat rnd 12 (24)
(begin 'heel')
Rnd 16: sc in next 10 sc, ch1 turn (10)
Rnd 17-19: repeat rnd 16 (10)
F/O. Leave long tail. Line up the edges of heel flap with opposite side of work (it will resemble a shoe shape'. Using tail and yarn needle, whipstitch the two sides to each other matching the stitches. Sew across the bottom of the 'heel'. Weave in ends.

Begin leg with 'sock roll':

Rnd 1:Attach white to a stitch at the center of the 'heel' portion of the foot, sc in same stitch as joining. Sc 14 more sc evenly spaced around the opening of the foot. Slip stitch to the first sc of the round. (15)
Rnd 2: working in Front Loops Only, 2 sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 3: working through all loops again, sc in each sc around (30)
Rnd 4: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (45)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (45)
Rnd 6: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
F/O Weave in ends. The 'sock' should roll naturally into shape, but you can always arrange it however you prefer.

Stuff foot moderately firm, but not overstuffed. Shape as you stuff.

Upper leg:

Rnd 1: Attach blue yarn to a free loop from rnd 2 of the 'sock' roll. Sc in same loop as joining, and each loop around (15)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around to last 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)
Rnd 3: repeat rnd 2 (13)
Rnd 4: repeat rnd 2 (12)
Rnd 5-16: sc in each sc around (12)

Stuff leg moderately firm. F/O and weave in ends.

HAIR / SPIKES:

Large Spikes
(make 6)

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 8-9: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 13: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 14-15: sc in each sc around (21)
Rnd 16: HDC in first 10 sc. F/O and weave in ends. (10 hdc)

Small Spikes
(make 2)

Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 10-11: sc in each sc around (15)
Rnd 12: HDC in first 8 sc. F/O and weave in ends. (10 hdc)

Spikes are left unstuffed.

TAIL:

Rnd 1: 3 sc in magic ring (3)
Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (3)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (6)
Rnd 5: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)
Rnd 6: sc in each sc around (9)
Rnd 7: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 8: sc in each sca round (12)
Rnd 9: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (15)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (15)
F/O, weave in ends. Stuff tail moderately firm.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:

I recommend using a good sewing thread and needle to sew parts together and to body. You can use matching yarn, but this tends to create bulk at joinings which is not always desired. I also *highly* recommend pinning parts before sewing to assure placement desired and that you're happy with how it looks before making it permanent. Small adjustments can be made during the sewing process if needed.

Sew ears to top of head as shown. Sew head to body. Muzzle is sewn to the bottom center of the face, centered with ears as shown. Nose is sewn to center top of muzzle.

Spikes are left 'flat' and curved slightly at the widest end, with the 10 HDC facing up. The spikes are arranged on the back of the head in three rows roughly in the order shown (three curved around top of the back of the head, three curved around the center of the back of the head, and the two *small* spikes are at the bottom of the back of the head, facing more in a downward position) The top row of spikes will have the 'center' spike placed centered between the ears and about 2 rows behind them. The other spikes can then be placed in relationship to the top center spike.

Pin all the spikes to the head before sewing. This way you can be certain of the placement. I found that sewing from the bottom spikes upwards helped. Small adjustments can be made during the sewing process. Be certain that the row of hdc is always 'up' on the spikes (this is the easiest part of the piece to sew through onto the head and gives you a spike that can be 'adjusted' and changed around somewhat to suit.

Sew arms to sides of body as shown and position as desired. Legs are sewn to the bottom of the body as shown, making sure that the feet are positioned as desired.

Tail is sewn to bottom of body on the back as shown.

Cut white felt piece in shape of eyes as shown. Position and pin before sewing to ensure you're happy with the placement. Cut small ovals of green felt for eyes and sew or glue in position desired. Smaller ovals of black are placed inside of the green felt for pupils. Tiny ovals of white felt for 'catch lights' are last (see photos for help)
For the 'brow ridge' Ch 38 with blue yarn. Do not fasten off yet. Pin this chain evenly around the eyes as shown, add or remove any chains needed to complete the brow ridge around the eyes. F/O chain and sew carefully around white part of eyes. Weave any loose ends of the chain into the doll to hide them.

Mouth is simply embroidered with black floss or yarn as shown.

If you wish, you can add a 'gold ring' as shown in the pictures by chaining 25 with gold yarn. Join the chain to create a ring. Sc in each ch around and join. Slip stitch in each sc around and join to first slip stitch. This will cause the ring to naturally 'curl' into a rounded shape, you might need to help it along a little. Sew to hand or however desired.

If you have some nice golden 'curtain rings' like those used for cafe style curtains, one of those would be nice too, Even a large sized gold hoop earring would work in some cases (a nice way to utilize that 'single' hoop you have hanging around but didn't want to throw out :)

SONIC THE HEDGEHOG is copyright Sega.

This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (February 2010). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it in any way, or sell items made from this pattern.

Your Patterns are mind blowing, thank you so much for sharing them, Sonic and mario are on my to do list. I would like to give you the Sunshine Award for being so awesome. You can collect the award form my blog: http://www.a-crochet-ninja.blogspot.com/Thank you again, never put down your hook :)

Thanks so much for your patterns! I'm currently working on Mario and I'm sure I'll make Sonic too. I've already made Bomb, Toad and Goomba (twice). They are all really nicely done and the fact that you share them for free is very appreciated!

Amazing!! Great praise to you, and your gracious sharing self. I've thought of doing a Sonic for quite some time, but always wound up intimidated. Way to tackle the project, it wound up beautifully done!

my little guy's bestfriend just had a birthday and how I had wished I foudn this pattern in time.. but in any case here it is now! thank you so very much, you are amazing and so kind to share this for free! I would have had to pay like.. well a lot on etsy for a pattern that I will only use a couple of times..

i am going to make one for my little man's bestfriend and one for him for sure, I will send photos when I am done ;0)

Oh my goodness! Your patterns are wonderful - and i am so amazed that finally someone likes to share their patterns- THANK YOU SO MUCH- you are wonderful - its amazing- i have no words left! THANK YOU!!!!!!:)

Woww that's really cool! (: I love all your patterns, especially the Pokemon and Mario stuff<3 Thanks for all the free patterns. I'ma try to get more experience at this and then attempt to make some of the ones you posted ^-^

Beginning at rnd 12, you're working in 'rows' instead of joining your round, you turn and work in the opposite direction to the other side, then repeat.

Beginning at rnd 16, you'll make 'shorter' rows, only 10 sc,

After you fasten off your short rows, you'll see it looks like a 'flap'. and if you fold that towards the foot, it should seem to take on a 'shoe' shape, the flap is sewn to the opposite side of the heel, and along the bottom to create a shape that looks like a shoe. The work is then begun at the top of the 'shoe' opening and again is done in the round. :D

Hi. I'm Claribel from Puerto Rico. I follow your blog since I found the pattern for Sonic Plushie. My son loves Sonic and he ask me to make the plushie for his 9 birthday on August. It takes me a little time, but the final result was great since it was the first time I crochet a plushie that size. Thanks a lot for the free pattern. Next project, Badtz Maru!!

It's worked first in the round, then back and forth in rows.. then the last few rows are 'short rows' with are then folded over to meet the 'other side' and sewn up as the heel of the 'shoe'. The yarn is then attached to the opening of your 'shoe' and the leg is crafted from there.

Thanks SO much for the pattern! My little brother asked me to make him Sonic for Christmas... and I'm like... "hoo boy I don't know... I'll look for a pattern" And lo and behold! I found yours!!!! Thanks!!

When joining rounds, you slip stitch into the top of the first sc of the round. The slip stitch (and the chain 1 afterwards) are never counted as a 'stitch'. Many people think that they're missing a stitch at the end of the round, or that there will be a gap, but there won't.

The chain 1 is only to bring the yarn up to the working height of the new round, it is not counted as a stitch. The first sc of the new round goes into the 'same' place that the slip stitch was placed to join the previous round.

If you doubt your round end, count your sc stitches. If the stitch count matches the number in the ( ) , then you're ok :D

Yes, you can either use a tapestry/yarn needle and weave the cut tail of yarn through the last round and then tug it up to close, OR you can use your crochet hook and weave the cut tail of yarn in and out of the stitches of the final round and then tug it up to close it.

Thank You So Much for sharing your patterns, they are so detailed and yet you write them out so well that they are easy to follow and yield extremely beautiful results, I've made Sonic and i'm going to make Tails next to keep him company on his adventures!

I am really having trouble with the Sonic foot. Please help!When changing from doing rounds to the rows in step 12, I now have a gap because I did not join. Is this correct ? I also can' t figure out how to fold up flap to make it look like a shoe and where to sew. Any chance of a diagram or picture? Sorry to be so slow on this. Made several of your other patterns with no problems. Grandkids love them! Thanks so much!

Yes, there is supposed to be a gap ... and the 'short flap' you make is folded much like closing a door across the back of the foot to make the 'heel' and create the opening that makes it resemble a shoe :D

I am loving all the patterns on your site! You are amazing and the patterns are some of the best I've seen. So easy to follow. I am glad that they are free for all of us. I can never afford to buy patterns. Thank you so much!!!

This is such a brilliant pattern - only trouble is I never learnt to crochet! Wish you did it for knitters as my grandson loves Sonic and I can't find one to knit. Maybe you've given me a retirement challenge, to learn crochet?

Hi, I love your dolls and my granddaughter loves sonic, so she gave me til her birthday to make her one, so I am trying. Everything was going great until I tried to do the foot. I just am braindead or something, I cannot understand it, even when I see the other comments on it. I am sorry, but I need something to look at to see how to do it. Is that possible?I am so happy you would share this,it is the only one I found that I like. Thanks Jo Ann

Please can someone help me figure out how to do this foot. I have read the instructions a thousand times and have come to the conclusion I need a picture to go by. If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it so much. My email address is jawade68@yahoo.com

I'm a knitter, that is trying to learn crochet. I'm stuck on rnd 3 of the body. " Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)". I read this as sc in the next sc, then 2sc the rest of the round. I know this is correct. Can someone please help me?

It means sc in the next sc and 2 sc (increase) in the next sc, the repeat that sequence around to the beginning of the round. You are increasing your rounds evenly by 7 sc each round. This is a classic 'round' sequence that will begin the shape of the body.

When you begin your decrease rounds, in general, it will follow the same pattern in reverse.

Hi! I've never really left a comment on a pattern before, but I had to comment this time! This pattern is amazing! I just made this for a friend's son's 5th birthday present! This lil guy is gonna LOVE it! I too have my own home-based crocheting business and have linked your site to my Sonic posts on my Facebook page, Kuddles And Kritters! Thank you for sharing such a wonderful pattern!

I have read through every comment and the directions for the foot a thousand times and all I end up doing is tearing everything out! Can someone explain how you start with 8 and then row 2 says you have 12 stitches? If you sc in the next stitch and 2sc in each st thereafter, I come up with 15 total st,not 12. I am not a beginner but I just CANNOT seem to get this! I'd like to have it finished for my 4yo for Christmas. Thanks!

It's a standard type of round increase just like in any basic circular piece. You sc in the next st, inc (2 sc) in the next st. You repeat that sequence around to increase every other stitch (4 increases and a total of 12 sc in the round)

Thanks so much! I don't know WHY I was having such a difficult time with it. I think maybe I had been staring at it too long and was just making things harder than they were. Now that I have reread it (along with your help) I don't know why I ever had a problem! :-) Thank you again for your help and for this fantastic pattern!

Ok, first, I LOVE your patterns and it's awesome that you make them available for free. I am currently working on this and the skipper for my boys. But I am stuck on Sonics shoes. After row 19, I have NO idea what to do with the heel flap. I've read it forward and backward, but cannot make it make sense in my head. I know it's most likely very simple, I am overcomplicating it I'm sure. If anyone can help me I'd really appreciate it.

Hi! I was wondering if i could post this pattern and give many thanks to you? I'm making a sonic for my husband and I want to try and get this pattern out more (the whole site, really) because everything is so amazing.

Hello from Venezuela, sorry for mi english, my nephew ask me to do him this beautiful sonic, I am Happy about this pattern. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, MY ENGLISh IS NOT so PERFECT BUT I CAN UNDERSTAND TO YOUr tutorial. THANKS AGAIN. A QUESTION: DO YOU HAVE A PIKACHU PATTERN? THANKS, I HOPE YOU VISIT to ME TO MY BLOG. http://escalandolavida.blogspot.com/Nilde Mendoza

For those that might be having troubles with the instructions for the feet, I put up a sort of a picture tutorial here: http://oth-help.blogspot.com/2013/03/sonic-foot-tutorial.html that may be of greater assistance. :D

So I am having trouble with the upper leg part...It says to attach the yarn to a free loop in row 2 of the sock roll and SC in each loop around...row 2 has 30 stitches but it says that row 1 of the leg is only supposed to have 15...i have sat here and looked at it for about an hr now trying to figure out how to work it and its just not coming to me lol...thank you

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