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Topic Review (Newest First)

03-01-2013 04:27 PM

ssmonty

"can i put a camshaft for a 1988-1995 engine in a flat hyd. engine from 1984?"
If I'm not mistaken the cam you have has a nose machined with a step to fit into a timing chain sprocket specifically made for roller cam blocks(1985-93 or so).
I'm pretty sure you'll have to buy a timing chain set for an '85-'93 engine and buy the cam retainer and modify it by grinding off the mounting tang/ears and using whats left as a spacer between the timing gear and cam to keep the cam from sliding into the block too far and contacting the rear cam tunnel plug as well as cam lobes hitting the wrong lifters.
The retainer is used on stock roller cam engines and keeps the cam from moving fore and aft in the block. Flat tappet cams have the lobes ground with an incline/slope that makes the cam try to move to the rear of the block constantly only the timing gear stops it.
FWIW,
ssmonty

03-01-2013 01:11 AM

1Gary

.010 down in the hole with 18cc dished pistons on 67cc heads and .040 gasket will give you 93ish SCR.

02-28-2013 11:26 PM

spinn

I would get the correct cam.

02-28-2013 10:55 PM

spinn

Me , went with the gm stock series II v6 or ls6 beehive. They work well with the performer cam. It is possible that the stock vortec springs would be enough for that cam you chose. Compress the springs and measure so you know what you have. Yes the stock spring will physically install in place and run the flathyd lifter engine. The pushrods and stock vortec rocker will also go in place.

Boats! If you have a tricky boat launch, with a big boat, the 3000 stall will be a little soft.
I would measure the crank , all fitting surfaces. It is probably not a big deal, and something that can work. Never looked at the marine stuff. Somebody else would know better than me.

02-28-2013 10:50 PM

s-10again!

also some more questions, the engine i am building is from a boat, steel crank nickel block etc etc...the crank is 2 peice main seal. its going to be hitching to a 700R4 that had a 1 piece is that going to be problem? the 1 piece crank has fine thread bolts and the crank im using (2 piece) has 3/8 studs sticking out of the crank weight.

02-28-2013 10:44 PM

s-10again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn

3000 rpms up the driveway? Why would you do that?

If you drive normal you cannot even tell its there. A 3000 rated will only footbrake test till 2200. Less in a 305. Dynamic converters make custom stalls. The one they built me is perfect. It even uses the GNX core, for that grand national type acceleration. I cant think of any driving condition it would negatively impact. Towing, I don't know? I towed 7500+ lbs on a wt distribution hitch. The trans was fine. At 65 Im at 2800rpm. Not terrible.

Every car today has at least 2400-2600 stall.

Again It will not even be noticeable. Until you use it. Consider it part of the basic muscle car package.

im so green behind the ears that the torque converter thing you just explained i had no clue of those facts. did not realize that. i thought converters only force the car to move after a certain fluid volume is reached to make a certain pressure to spin the pump. thank you for the advice it unlocks yet another peice to the puzzle that i had absolutely no clue about. i once had a triple cylider snowmobile that had stiff spring and light weights in the centrifigal clutch. trying to pull up to a gas pump with it could potentially rip your arms off. thought the high stall converters had the same affect. just common physics sense. im good a billiards hahaha. could use some info on valve springs and camshaft useable dates.

02-28-2013 10:36 PM

spinn

With the supercharger I can twist the 85mph speedometer around completely in 10 seconds.

02-28-2013 10:30 PM

spinn

3000 rpms up the driveway? Why would you do that?

If you drive normal you cannot even tell its there. A 3000 rated will only footbrake test till 2200. Less in a 305. Dynamic converters make custom stalls. The one they built me is perfect. It even uses the GNX core, for that grand national type acceleration. I cant think of any driving condition it would negatively impact. Towing, I don't know? I towed 7500+ lbs on a wt distribution hitch. The trans was fine. At 65 Im at 2800rpm. Not terrible.

Every car today has at least 2400-2600 stall.

Again It will not even be noticeable. Until you use it. Consider it part of the basic muscle car package.

02-28-2013 10:04 PM

s-10again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinn

If those are the 350 heads you need to mill them to 58-60cc. Are you compensating with dome? Flat is fine. Reprogram trans with springs and wts and alter trans shifts to 5200+rpm . Go with as much stall as you can. Go with as much gear as you will tolerate.

I was looking to get my c10 close to the acceleration of the grand nationals of the time. I needed a supercharger.

my compression with flattop pistons and .041 quench distance lends me 10.6 to 1 compression. if anything i am too high as it were i beleive. your build is very similar to mine thank you for your considerations. i am still considering a taller gear ration in the diff. i may not need it ill wait till the truck goes down the road to change the gears in the diff. its already got 3.73's kinda lookin for that low rpm rumbler. not exactly interested in 3000 rpms just to creap up the driveway and to the mailbox lol. this truck will bring my kids to school and deliver firewood for my winter woodstove and roadtrip me to my hunting and fishing camps on weekends.

02-28-2013 09:48 PM

spinn

If those are the 350 heads you need to mill them to 58-60cc. Are you compensating with dome? Flat is fine. Reprogram trans with springs and wts and alter trans shifts to 5200+rpm . Go with as much stall as you can. Go with as much gear as you will tolerate.

I was looking to get my c10 close to the acceleration of the grand nationals of the time. I needed a supercharger.

02-28-2013 09:17 PM

s-10again!

cam and heads and valve spring mismatch.

.040 flattop pistons 305ci with edelbrock rpm camshaft 204/214 112cl, lift IN.403-EX.448 holley spreadbore intake with rochester q-jet and summit distributor, .016 head gasket with vortec l31 heads resurfaced and freshened up, also flattened out any "low hanging fruit" . makes about 1 hp per CI at 5000 rpm and 320 ft/lb of torque at 4500 rpm. that is great numbers for what i am looking for. im pretty excited about this engine. this 305 doesnt appear to be the turd on the desktop dyno that my buddies are poking fun about. in a little s-10 this thing will burn through tires like like a 5 year old making toast. at cruise rpm(2000), this engine should make neer 100 hp and 280 ft/lb torque at 2000 rpms cruising. this will be amazing. gas mileage should be happy as well with a 3.08 diff gear and lockup converter. the build is in process and having progress. looking for little bits of info. can i put a camshaft for a 1988-1995 engine in a flat hyd. engine from 1984? the cam i have is flat tappet and states that it is for a 1988 and newer flat tappet/roller blocks. note that i am using inline fuel pump not mechanical dont need the fuel pump lobe. also would the valve springs from factory vortec L31 heads be ok for flat tappet camshafts? do i need new springs and such to run vortecs on older flat tappet blocks? got my 305 build comin right along. lookin for some tech help. thanx and be sure to leave some constructive criticism as well. im new at this and i would like to be sure i am staying on the right track. ive yet to purchase the head gasket valve springs 1.52 roller tip comp magnum rockers, and carburetor jets and such. any advice on any of my purchases would be wildley helpfull as i am ready to purchase now.