If you can't cut it out and weld it up, you can always try to "epoxy" a patch to it. It won't last forever since that rust likely goes 4 inches in all directions. But the epoxy stuff works if you prep right.

They use it in the trucks episode, but 1/4 of the way through the vid:

If you can't cut it out and weld it up, you can always try to "epoxy" a patch to it. It won't last forever since that rust likely goes 4 inches in all directions. But the epoxy stuff works if you prep right.

They use it in the trucks episode, but 1/4 of the way through the vid:

they make a patch panel for that, but if you want to go cheap weld in flat steel
remove the bolt in your hinge to see how much rust in the bolt area
the captured nut may just spin

Yup.
Just mainly worried about not ahving the door align properly if I took that on. Also not quite sure how the inner and outer work together.

So ... was thinking best way to patch it up easily .... like a "face plate" to keep mositure out ..... and seal it so no further rust.

Then when truck is back on road - deal with it properly then at a shop ..... or just as a long weekend project. I know it will be easier now as have it torn apart ...... but if I patch it with a face plate then can tackle the paint and sheet metal as a bigger proect in a few years (remove cab.)

So just a few pieces of sheet metal over top --- tack it down ... bondo it out. That be enough to prevent further rust and corrosion if I cut out existing rust and treat prior etc. ?

... was thinking best way to patch it up easily .... like a "face plate" to keep mositure out ..... and seal it so no further rust.

the moisture that rusts that area out comes from the cowl vent
there is no 'sealing it' unless you shave the cowl vent
remove all the leaves from the area behind the hinge and clear out the drain
pull the vent covers off and look on top of the shelf above the door
this is where leaves and pine needles gather to rust our trucks into oblivion

you should be able to run a hose into the cowl vent and have it all run out thru the drain forward of the lower hinge

Need mainly door hinge repair (part #14) panel I need. But if I started to tackle I think Im probably in for replacing Hinge piller lower and inner (#11 and #12)

Then not sure if in for more welding and body work an alignment problems than I want to take on. Rather than patch it as best I can ..... cut out the rust .... and if I get the truck running and enjoying it .... take the body off and do a full restore in a few years from now.

Having never done it before - seems making decisions is almost always my biggest roadblock unless I can find a step by step then more confident of whats involved to tackle etc.

like ogre says. prolly more rust there than you know of till you tackle the repair.
consider thepillar as a sort of a box. panel 14 is the rear side of the box,panel 11 is the outside and front of the box, and panel 12 is the inside wall of the box.
I would suggest to remove the fender and look from the front side, or at least go under the truck and look from the under/front side and you will get a better idea of what the pillar is shaped like and also how much integrity is left there. also open the cowl vent doors and stick a mirror down inside there so you can see what metal is left in that area. the shelf ogre is talking about that collects stuff is right above the vent door inside the cowl and you can't really see it until the outer cowl panels are removed. unless you use a mirror or an insection camera. the bottom of the cowl vents can also be see from under the truck and they have small drain openings with a little metal flap screwed on to sort of cover the drain opening and keep road mud etc from plugging the hole. take the metal flap off and see what comes out then check the integrity of that area as well. that whole area is sorta interconnected as far as repairs go. the cowl vent would fill with leaves etc and plug the small drain, then the cowl vent would fill with rain water or snow melt, whatever, and run out through the vent door onto the floor. this rusts the floor out and also the hinge pillar, cab step and front cab mount brackets under the floor. check all those areas for integrity before you attempt to fix a smaller area that is connected, like the hinge pillar part.

Ill play around more tomorrow and try and make a good evaluation of rust. Going to lean not ripping it out based on whagt I've seen ...... but I'll try and get a camera down the cowl door as well as look up from the kick vent from inside and see whats what.

What makes for alignment on doors. meaning - they seem to be pretty much just bolted in on the hinge with no real adjustment. Somewhat concerned if I did tackle it and was a few mm off ... doors wouldn't close properly.

check out what you have for starters. if replacing the lower hinge area first make a pattern to copy the original contour. make a center punch mark a designated dimension above the floor on the pillar so you know where the floor is supposed to be when you install the new part. then cut it apart and weld in the new piece(s).
the door adjusts up and down on the hinge pillars and also in and out to match the fenders and door opening. then the hinges adjust the door fore and aft inside the door where they bolt onto the door. there is a write up in classic trucks on how they get the hinges adjusted on a 55-59 chevy truck. maybe check their tech area online.

find out what you have to work with before you start just doing the hinge pillar repair. you don't want any surprises. remove the sheet metal panel that goes vertically just inside the door on the kick panel area. then you can see the inside of the hinge pillars. it's only held with a couple of screws.

Ok so theres more bondo and more rust than I thought. Especially on the main rib support of the step which was ALREADY a patch refix. Seems like a design/install issue as its really only rusted through on the supports ridge itself ... not the sheet metal.

So - I tried to pull back the paint and rust to metal around the pillarg hinge. Seems pretty much like into good metal and should be able to weld 3-4 pieces of small sheet metal into place ..... prime with rustoleum and then seal and smotth out with bondo fiberglass.

The upper part of the gutter seems solid and not rused through .... the other picture is looking up with phone and taking a pic - defaintely surfave rust but expect this is normal for these trucks.

1) HOW do you remove the square/oval shaped screws or rivits holding cowl on top. Special tool or drill and tap ?

2) I am thinking of patching everything. Im not too concerned with how it looks as its not a frame off restore ..... just want to cut out any structure issues and patch so it will hold a few years until I take the body off. So thinking

a) 3-4 small formed sheet metal pices in door pillar looks like good metal.

b) bigger rust down middle of step where support ridge goes. Cut it all out so Im into good metal with saw ..... and get a slightly thicker piece of metal and weld it in place. If I need to I can weld a few support beams underneath crossing the alternate way.

Thoughts ?
I am not doing this truck as show truck. Its a DD and my frst project. My main reason for not tackling it fully is if I dont compete this ... it will just be another add on craiglist. It also loos like structureally the metal is ok around the hinges at least .... just the typical areas that rust out .... but not as bad as I thought.

Finally - like I said - if I decide to tackle body/rust Id rather do it in a few years and take the entire body off and have it media blasted and deal with it ALl properly - rather than patch here and patch there.

they may be clutch head screws. grind the heads off if you don't have a tool for that, or order the tool and wait. grind and vise grip works pretty well after heating the screw up to loosen it off some before trying to remove it. if it is an actual square it may be a roberson head screw. Canada's fix for the "always stripped out" phillips head screws, haha.
grind or sandblast or treat or whatever the rust
do any weld in repairs but spray with weld through primer first on anything that is sandwiched or un accessible after the new panel is welded in
do any weld bond repairs
epoxy prime and lay it on thick at the seams so it will penetrate into the seam as much possible
seam seal
body fill as required
high build primer
sanding
more high build
more sanding
more high build
block sanding if ready otherwise more high build
take pics and post for all us slackers to see
carry on
drive unit waaaay sooner than us slackers who are just checking the thread
haha

Clutch Head Screws - wow - yep thats what they are - good to know - thanks !!

Do you like the weld through primer ? Never used. Was planning to just butt joint the patch and tack weld around. Then grind an regular paint prime it. Follow with bondo/filler etc to smooth out and then prime sand and spray to finish