I’d like to use red cedar for this. My only concern is relative to the table and benches feet. I cannot find any 6×6 red cedar lumbers in my area (Montreal), so I wonder if 4×4 would looks good too, it would make the feet a little thiner.

I’m not sure I fully understand, and i’m not sure you’re both saying the same thing.

Jumbojack: do you mean I should use 4×4 (any wood?) and then veneer it with red cedar?

I think that what monte meant is that I should glue together a bunch of 2×4 cedar lumber to make the feet. I can be wrong, i’m quite new to woodworking, and english is not my native language, so bear with me if i’m mistaken.

I’d be interested to see if veneered Redwood would stay on the laminted 2×4. Even with alot of finish and there apprear to be very little entry points for moistire on that table, I wonder if you have adhesive failure and peeling after a few season in the Upper North East humid and bitter cold. I guess you could try and see what happens. That is certainly the most economical way to go, for longenvity of course Teak would be ideal- but expensive.

Looking at the list of material, it says 6”x6”x8” – 3. They are for corner support according to the directions since they are only 8” long. Shouldn’t it be 6”x6”x8” – 4??Anyways, The legs on the bench can be 2) 4”X6” -36” joined together for each leg making a 4”X10ish.

As suggested above, I would make the legs like a box. Rip the planks (1 or 3/4” thick) with 45 deg. edges, then miter them together. If carefully done, this can look just like solid wood, and will be less likely to check or split with changes in weather. This would be a good place for biscuits, if you have a biscuit joiner. You could also glue and use small galvanized finishing nails, nailing from both sides of each corner. With nails going in a right angles to each other, it shouldn’t come apart. For fastening to the bench or table top, fit a block of wood at the end through which you can drive screws. You could either fasten the block to the bench top first, then attach the leg to that, or use a very long screwdriver bit in your impact driver. Small lag screws would work too, with a socket wrench and very long extender. Actually, that last part sounds hard to do, so I hope somebody comes up with a better scheme.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

There is a router bit that excels at jointing corners to look like one solid piece of stock. (A corner lock miter bit)

I have installed hollow PT columns that allow a structural tie down to pass though it to hold down the beam and roof members with an all thread (or cable) without being visible.

It provides plenty of glue surface, as well as interlock.

PT is generally made using yellow pine, and is also wet (relatively speaking) when installed. Pine is noted for movement. These joints have not failed in spite of these factors, and were used in exterior applications. (Though I should add that they were painted).