Already hailed for their operation out in the nether reaches of Mokotów, the Mexican team behind Kolendra have expanded to open up on Okrzei, a shabby street that’s gradually gentrifying.

It’s a small, budget-minded interior that feels like it was assembled in a hurry – yet rather than being a criticism, the ad hoc spirit lends a sense of authenticity to this pokey, side street venue.

With neither Polish nor English spoken by the staff (at least, not on our visit), the ordering process can be both labored and a little bizarre. But those who survive it are rewarded by commendable quesadillas, interesting chilequilas and rather excellent tacos: hat tip to the Al Pastor.

Though limited in scope, the menu has done enough to earn this joint a loud and loyal following with early signs suggesting that we have a legend in the making.