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E/Xmag PredII/Mini Morlock install/guide

*****THIS GUIDE IS FOR REFERANCE ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTED BY ANYONE WHO DOSE NOT UDERSTAND HOW TO INSTALL/WIRE A PRED II BOARD. I WILL NOT ANSWER ANY DUMB QUESTIONS, SO PLEASE DON'T ASK . THIS IS HOW I WIRED MY OWN XMAG AND IF YOU DIDN'T GET AT LEAST 90% OF WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT HAVE SOMEONE ELSE INSTALL IT FOR YOU***********************

I just completed an X and it rips pretty good . I thought i'd share the info for those who choose to try and do it on their own, but be warned if you screw it up it's your bad ......

To start off the Pred II and the Mini Morlock are the same boards and are both made by
KM2 exarin.com. The Pred II are programed with psp, nxl, ramp etc by tagsportz.com. Although eyes are included I did not use them because the lvl 10 will more than likely never chop.

Now for the install:

(1) HES: The Hall Effect Sensor has 3 wires red, black, & yellow. The red is the postive side of the trigger switch. The black is the negative side of the trigger switch and the yellow is the signal side of the switch.

(EDIT) On some HES the red wire is the signal and the yellow wire is the positive.

How I verified the HES wire: Remove the HES connector from the AGD board and test each pin starting from the top.

(2) The battery: Although 18v the board is made to handle it and can be connected directly to the positive portion of the battery. You can split the positive wire and attach a switch or use the AGD battery saver pin. The negative is connected to the frame of the marker. I used the origanal grounding point/board mount screw for the ground.

(3) Solenoid: The polarity has to be correct to avoid trigger bounce. To verify this use a compass under the noid with either west or east closest to it. When the trigger is pulled the compass should point to south.

(4) Intelli feed/Warpfeed: The boards have another set of (2) wires for a second solenoid or Warp/Intelli feed system. I haven't used them, but I would assume that if they where connected incorrectly your feed would'nt work or turn in reverse, but fear not a simple switch of the wires should cure the problem.

Now for the wiring codes: (WARNING I SUGGEST YOU VERIFY THESE FOR YOUR SELF AGAINST THE PRED II MANUAL AND ANY AGD WIRE GUIDE FOR YOUR MARKER. IT MAY DIFFER)

Predator-Morlock
Operation, Functionality and Troubleshooting
LED:
Solid - ball in breech Blinking slow - breech clear Blinking fast - eyes disabled
Dip Switches:
Either or both switches in the ON position activates the tournament lock. You will not be able to go into program mode
unless BOTH switches are off.
Activation:
Switch on the power switch located on the gun
Eye Operation:
You can turn your eyes on and off by holding the trigger down for 2 seconds.
Wiring harness - Front, Writing Down (HKS) (wires pointing away)
1 = White (eye +5 volts at 150ma max) short lead
2 = Green (eye signal)
3 = Black (emitter -) short lead
4 = Orange (emitter +)
5 = Red (solenoid 2)
6 = Yellow (solenoid 2)
7 = Red (solenoid 1)
8 = Blue (solenoid 1)
9 = Black (battery -)
10 = Red (battery +)
11 = Black (trig -)
12 = Grey (trig +)
Example for programming your Predator:
1. Your tournament LOCK must be off if your board has that feature. We strongly suggest you turn your
tournament lock on while playing.
2. Pull and hold the trigger then turn the gun on by using the button on the back of the gun
3. Release trigger
4. You are now in the REGISTER select area
5. Pull trigger the appropriate number of times to go to register. Example: 2 pulls will take you to the MROF
register (register 2)
6. LED will flash the current setting of the register you selected
7. You are now in MODE select area
8. You can now pull the trigger to insert the new setting.
9. The LED will flash 2 times to indicate it has taken the new setting
10. You are now back in the REGISTER select area
11. You can now move to a new register by simple pulling the trigger the appropriate number of times or turn the
gun off and back on to use the new settings
NOTE: If you select Register 1, you are expected to enter a fire mode, again in trigger clicks. After you have made a
selection, the light will flash and remain on. The gun is now prepared to fire. We suggest you make the fire mode the last
register you select as the board will reboot after it has been selected.
Programming advanced firing mode example on Predator board:
Player wishes his or her marker to ramp once they reach 6 bps but NOT start ramping until they have fired 10 shots.
1. Go into programming mode by turning your board on while holding the trigger back
2. LED will flash once to indicate you are in program mode
3. Release the trigger
4. Pull trigger 5 times to enter the RAMPING ROF register (register 5)
5. LED will flash the current setting
6. Pull the trigger 6 times to set this register to 6bps
7. LED will flash 2 times to indicate it took the new setting
8. Pull trigger 6 times to enter the RAMPING SHOT COUNT register (register 6)
9. LED will flash the current setting
10. Pull the trigger 10 times to indicate you wish the ramping to start after you have fired 10 shots
11. LED will flash 2 times to indicate it took the new setting.
12. Pull trigger 1 time to enter the FIRING MODE register
13. LED will flash the current setting
14. Pull trigger 6 times to enter FAST RAMPING mode
15. LED will flash 2 times to indicate that it took the new setting AND the gun will reboot and be ready to fire. The
gun reboots automatically after you set register 1. This does not happen after any of the other registers.
5.0 Registers
Register Default Description
1
Firing Mode:
1. Semi
2. Auto Response
3. Full Auto
4. Smooth Ramp (debounce slowly drops)
5. Assisted Ramp (turbo style ramping where it adds shots based on the rate of fire.
Slower trigger pulls add less shots. Faster trigger pulls will add more shots.
6. Fast Ramping (Shots are added as soon as you reach the settings in register 5 and 6)
7. Triplet Shot Ramping (fires 3 shots every time the trigger is pulled. This speeds up
the faster you pull the trigger)
8. PSP1 (3 shots semi then fast ramping) (no need to set register 6 as this feature is built
in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register 5)
9. PSP2 (3 shots semi then super-fast ramping) (no need to set register 6 as this feature
is built in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register 5)
10. PSP3 w/Triple Shot ramping (3 shots semi then fires 3 shots every trigger pull) (no need
to set register 6 as this feature is built in. However, you can set the AFA ROF in register
5)
11. NXL (3 shots then full auto)
12. Breakout (Full Auto then fast ramping. Settings in registers 5/6 are honored)
13. OMFG (cant really explain it but it is amazing) WARNING: Don’t stand behind your own
players when using this one.
14. NXL Breakout First shot is full auto then 3 shots semi then full auto again. We have no
idea why we do this stuff
2
Rate of Fire: This is the GLOBAL rate of fire. This controls the MROF in all modes with the eye
on. IF register 11 is set to 1 this will also be your EYE off MROF. Otherwise your eye off MROF is
controlled by the number you enter in register 11
3
Electronic and Mechanical Anti Bounce: A higher setting will keep the gun from firing extra
shots with each trigger pull. The board monitors the noise and firing rate then adjust the
mechanical debounce to work best with the electronic bounce settings.
4 Dwell: Bolt Forward Duration. Length of time the bolt stays forward
5
AFA ROF: 1 = off, 2 and above is the rate of fire that must be reached and maintained before the
advanced firing modes activate.
6 AFA Shot Count: Actual number of trigger pulls before ramping activates
7 Fire Hold Off: Delay before the gun will fire again after cycling, in ms
8
Eye Hold Off: Delay before the gun will fire after seeing a ball, in ms. If you are using a slow
hopper it might be necessary to increase this to avoid chopping.
9
Anti Bolt Stick: This is the time the board waits before increasing the dwell to compensate for a
gun that has an issue with bolt stick. NOTE: Using this feature on a gun without this issue will
result in the first shot being hotter.
1 = off 2 = 5s 3 = 10s 4 = 15s
10 Anti Bolt Stick Time: This is the increase in dwell when register 9 is engaged.
11
Eye Off Rate Of Fire: 1 = rate set in register 2, 2 and above equals the maximum rate of fire
when the eyes are turned off. Example: If this register is set to 1 then the rate of fire you select in
register 2 will be the same with the eyes on or off. If this is set to 11 then your eye off rate of fire
will be a maximum of 11 bps.
12 ROF Additions in .20 of a second: 1 = off, 2 = .20, 3 = .40, 4 = .60, 5 = .80
13
Disable Eye thru trigger: 1 = yes, 2 = no (this feature allows you to turn the eyes off by holding
the trigger back for 2 seconds)
14
Clearing Shot: 1 = yes, 2 = no (This allows you to fire a ball if you hold the trigger back for
¾ of a second in the event the eyes do not see a ball)
15
DM4/WMD board: Not used
Shocker Board:
Eye Type: 1 = Break Beam, 2-20 = Reflective with sensitivity control) 2 = most sensitive 20 being
the least. YES we can see black paint with our new reflective eye logic. Currently our shocker
board is the only one that uses a reflective eye system.
NME/Intercepter Board:
Eye sensitivity: 1 - 20 (20 being more sensitive). If your eyes are not “seeing” each other
increase this setting.

Great job with the write up. I always wanted to do something like this myself.

Hey, did you get the ACE to work with the Pred?

I'm not using the ACE system, because the lvl 10 will not allow you to chop anyway. I did read in the dealer forum that Ryan from Logic wrote: you would have to scratch through/cut the traces on the to the ACE board then connect the (4) eye wires to the ACE sensors's 4 legs. KEEP IN MIND YOU HAVE TO PARALLEL/SPLIT THE EMMITTER + (PRED ORANGE WIRE #4) WITH THE HES SIGNAL WIRE (YELLOW). As for which wires go where it' will have to be trial and error. If you want to do this mod I would suggest a different singal 4 legged pronged eye hot glued into the eye hole. I haven't looked yet, but try www.jameco.com or you can desolder your eye off of the ACE board, but be careful ACE boards are a little hard to come by now a days. I didn't even consider this because I wanted to be able to convert my X back to the stock condition. Hope this helps

I'm not using the ACE system, because the lvl 10 will not allow you to chop anyway. I did read in the dealer forum that Ryan from Logic wrote: you would have to scratch through/cut the traces on the to the ACE board then connect the (4) eye wires to the ACE sensors's 4 legs. As for which wires go where it' will have to be trial and error. If you want to do this mod I would suggest a different singal 4 legged pronged eye hot glued into the eye hole. I haven't looked yet, but try www.jameco.com or you can desolder your eye off of the ACE board, but be careful ACE boards are a little hard to come by now a days. I didn't even consider this because I wanted to be able to convert my X back to the stock condition. Hope this helps

I think it could be done easier than that, but Im afraid to try it. There is 4 wires on the Predator, 2 on the ACE. A +5v and a sig. The board appears to be grounded to the frame via the screw and space used to mount the ACE board. My theory is this, take the +5v and sig wires from the ACE and connect them to the appropriate eye port on the Predator. Take the remaining 2, which are both ground, and run them up and unde the ACE board, and attach them to the mounting screw.

Curt and I had this discussion once, he said it sounded good, but I never tried it. Coolhand couldnt get one to work what ever way he tried and I got paranoid about it.

I will dig up the emails I had with curt and post the info here later.

I think it could be done easier than that, but Im afraid to try it. There is 4 wires on the Predator, 2 on the ACE. A +5v and a sig. The board appears to be grounded to the frame via the screw and space used to mount the ACE board. My theory is this, take the +5v and sig wires from the ACE and connect them to the appropriate eye port on the Predator. Take the remaining 2, which are both ground, and run them up and unde the ACE board, and attach them to the mounting screw.

Curt and I had this discussion once, he said it sounded good, but I never tried it. Coolhand couldnt get one to work what ever way he tried and I got paranoid about it.

I will dig up the emails I had with curt and post the info here later.

Sounds great the more info the better. Please re-read the orig install/guide post since I have moddified it since this morning.

This may be alittle of topic, but I saw this post and it peaked my intrest. I was looking at the Worlock manual and it says they are using a "Transistor" to activate the solenoid, this concerns me because of the massive amount of current the E/Xmag needs to fire properly. A MOSFET would work much better and disipate less power, just wondering if a transistor is actually what they are using?

If you guys dont know how a PNP or NPN junction transistor works the Collector Emitter current is dependent upon the Base Emitter current, so the max current the transitor can conduct depends on how much current the "PIC" can source to the Base of the transistor.

The Gate on a MOSFET is voltage controlled so the Gate voltage and current function indepently from the Drain Source current, not only that but a MOSFET can support much high current levels and have a lower Rds_on (resistance when the MOSFET is closed), so they would disipate less power.

Just my two cents, but if they are really using a MOSFET then ignore my rant....

This may be alittle of topic, but I saw this post and it peaked my intrest. I was looking at the Worlock manual and it says they are using a "Transistor" to activate the solenoid, this concerns me because of the massive amount of current the E/Xmag needs to fire properly. A MOSFET would work much better and disipate less power, just wondering if a transistor is actually what they are using?

If you guys dont know how a PNP or NPN junction transistor works the Collector Emitter current is dependent upon the Base Emitter current, so the max current the transitor can conduct depends on how much current the "PIC" can source to the Base of the transistor.

The Gate on a MOSFET is voltage controlled so the Gate voltage and current function indepently from the Drain Source current, not only that but a MOSFET can support much high current levels and have a lower Rds_on (resistance when the MOSFET is closed), so they would disipate less power.

Just my two cents, but if they are really using a MOSFET then ignore my rant....

Good luck with the ACE controls.

So far with all of the PredII mods that have been done I have never heard of a fried board due to current draw from the solenoid. The brightside to all of PredII boards carry a life time warranty from Tag.

As for the ACE system and if it's needed or not on an E/Xmag I find it's like carrying around a extra pair of shoes with you just in case you wear a hole in one of them while walking down the street. I've been shooting my A4 with a PredII board with eyes in it and with even modirate paint I have never chopped a ball. So I don't stay awake at night thinking how can I mod an AGD Level 10 bolt into my angel "JUST IN CASE "

Positions 11 and 12 can be reversed from marker to marker. Mine is backwards of my brothers. Also polarity of the noid matters. The north pole of a compass should point up towards the sear when laying over the noid after a cycle or two. If you reverse the white noid wires you can get runaways. Ace works with the board, but since I don't have Ace I can't remember what hooked where. In the tag forum search for the install guide. I know at least one guy there has a link.

Positions 11 and 12 can be reversed from marker to marker. Mine is backwards of my brothers. Also polarity of the noid matters. The north pole of a compass should point up towards the sear when laying over the noid after a cycle or two. If you reverse the white noid wires you can get runaways. Ace works with the board, but since I don't have Ace I can't remember what hooked where. In the tag forum search for the install guide. I know at least one guy there has a link.

I would assume you and your brother have E/X mags and if the wires are different for the HES it is a good idea to verify your wires as I stated in my post. As for the polarity of the MAGNETIC SOLENOID wires I don't see what differance it would make on north/south. They have the same attraction ability. Unless the attraction portion is also polorized I don't see how it makes a differance. Now I think about it I did remember reading about how they used a compass to verify the pull direction some where. Don't get me wrong this is the first Xmag I have ever done, so I don't claim to know it all. Maybe I just ave the got lucky with mine . To verify this I will reverse the solenoid and see what happens. Anyway thanks for the great input I'm shure everyone will benefit from it.

I would assume you and your brother have E/X mags and if the wires are different for the HES it is a good idea to verify your wires as I stated in my post. As for the polarity of the MAGNETIC SOLENOID wires I don't see what differance it would make on north/south. They have the same attraction ability. Unless the attraction portion is also polorized I don't see how it makes a differance. Now I think about it I did remember reading about how they used a compass to verify the pull direction some where. Don't get me wrong this is the first Xmag I have ever done, so I don't claim to know it all. Maybe I just ave the got lucky with mine . To verify this I will reverse the solenoid and see what happens. Anyway thanks for the great input I'm shure everyone will benefit from it.

Yes sir we have Emags. Our stock boards the HES wires were reversed as well. I almost thought I fried my board as I hooked it up Because it flashed once and didn't work. I then noticed my HES wires were reverse of his. Did a flip flop and snap it worked.

The noid polarity makes a big differance in mine and a little less in my brothers. Mine just goes insane and doesn't stop shooting. The HES is magnetic with the south pole of the noid up toward the sear it tricks the HES to fire like the trigger has been pulled The only way to stop it on mine is to flip on the safety or or pin the battery. Aaron's on the other hand would sometimes add short bursts at the end of the shot strings. Didn't notice it at first until I took 17 balls or so when he only pulled the trigger 2 to 3 times and ramping was off. Just little tid bits of info I thought might be of use.

Above applies to the way I have mine set up. Your 11 and 4 could be swapped per marker I'd bet. Mine I believe would work just the way you have yours set up Fly, but my brothers would be flip flop on your 11 and 4. Looking at the good ol'stock board my HES plug from the top towards the display was wired blk,yellow and red.I bet yours was the same as mine. Aaron's was stock yellow, blk, red. Can you verify this on your end?

Above applies to the way I have mine set up. Your 11 and 4 could be swapped per marker I'd bet. Mine I believe would work just the way you have yours set up Fly, but my brothers would be flip flop on your 11 and 4. Looking at the good ol'stock board my HES plug from the top towards the display was wired blk,yellow and red.I bet yours was the same as mine. Aaron's was stock yellow, blk, red. Can you verify this on your end?

Just to make shure we talking about the Mini Morlock 5.0. I'll post what the wiring diagram is from Tag:

As for my X's HES wiring on the stock emag board is Blk, Ywl, Rd from top to bottom like yours. After reading a lot of posts I decided to wire everything according to the Tag install manual. Compared to you and your bro's mag there are some differances, but if it works there is no reason to mess with it. I know Ryan from Logic is a real smart guy and a Tag dealer, so I'm shure he knows what he's doing. Me I'm just a humble player with no money, a lot of time, and bubble gum to try and figure stuff like this out........

Nope We aren't 5.0 we have older 3.0 . Nothing really different. You just have some different ramping and break out options over us. Install I believe is the same. I should be able to pluck your board into my harness and work. That looks about right. I think that is the same thing I downloaded over a year ago now. I color matched my stock wire to the boards leads as best I could to make things easier on me. It took me about an hour and a half to do the complete job soldering and shrink rapping the wires nice and neat

Originally Posted by flyingpootang

Just to make shure we talking about the Mini Morlock 5.0. I'll post what the wiring diagram is from Tag:

As for my X's HES wiring on the stock emag board is Blk, Ywl, Rd from top to bottom like yours. After reading a lot of posts I decided to wire everything according to the Tag install manual. Compared to you and your bro's mag there are some differances, but if it works there is no reason to mess with it. I know Ryan from Logic is a real smart guy and a Tag dealer, so I'm shure he knows what he's doing. Me I'm just a humble player with no money, a lot of time, and bubble gum to try and figure stuff like this out........

What Curt had to say about the ACE

My question:
I see that the eye elements are soldered to a circuit board. This board then has 2 wires that run to the guns main board. They are mraked "5v" and "sig". I put a voltage tester on both of them. The 5v one gives a steady 5volts. The other (Sig) give a reading when you cover the eye.

My question then become: How do I take these two wires and properly hook them up to the Pred. Morlock board? I know that there
are 4 connectors for the eyes (2 for the emmiter, 2 for the
detector)

Curt's Answer:
There has to be a ground somewhere. Is it grounded to the frame of the gun?
It takes three wires to run an eye, minimum- +v, ground, and
sig.
In any case, you can just run the signal into the morlock's eye signal pin,
Basically hook the two wires up to the two normally used for the detector and you'll
be fine. Second make sure you have a ground path, any black wire on the morlock is ground.

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

Originally Posted by BigEvil

My question:
I see that the eye elements are soldered to a circuit board. This board then has 2 wires that run to the guns main board. They are mraked "5v" and "sig". I put a voltage tester on both of them. The 5v one gives a steady 5volts. The other (Sig) give a reading when you cover the eye.

My question then become: How do I take these two wires and properly hook them up to the Pred. Morlock board? I know that there
are 4 connectors for the eyes (2 for the emmiter, 2 for the
detector)

Curt's Answer:
There has to be a ground somewhere. Is it grounded to the frame of the gun?
It takes three wires to run an eye, minimum- +v, ground, and
sig.
In any case, you can just run the signal into the morlock's eye signal pin,
Basically hook the two wires up to the two normally used for the detector and you'll
be fine. Second make sure you have a ground path, any black wire on the morlock is ground.

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

RdRt: Datsa right on da snozolla. The ACE grounds via the mounting screw

BigE: Since you verified the ACE Red = @ 5vdc Yellow = @ 5vdc covered and the ground is the mounting screw. I would say that you would only have to connect these 2 wires to the Pred board. Red to #4 orange emmiter +, Yellow = #2 green eyesignal, and ground is alredy done via the mounting screw, but that is just a guess. Ryan's from Logic posted in the AO dealers forum on how to connect the ACE to an Pred board towards the last 2 pages of the post on PredII installs. Instead of cutting through the traces of the board you can just tack on the 4 eye wires to the ACE's 4 legs. Keep us updated and may the Pred II gods smile on you

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

Sorry for the late reply I just got back from vacation. Any word on the Fairchild eye yet? I'd like to see the pics.. You got a great web site I've been looking around on there and you have some interesting stuff. If you need pictures or specs on a ACE let me know. I have one and it's in working condition.....

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...

Here's the eye in position.
You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.

The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...

Here's the eye in position.

You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.

The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

Looks great. I wish I could post pics of mine, but for some reason AO would'nt let me take a file from my desk top. I keep getting a file problem message. I like evey thing except the switch. Maybe you can mount in on a thin piece of plastic or something to make it look better, but great job anyway. I just used the pin to disconnect the battery mounted on my barrel condom to keep from loosing it. I also mounted my board so you can see the LED through the holes on the back of the grip frame. I hot glued the harness to the frame, so it free floats the board and its easy to remove. As for your marker being limited to hit 19-20 bps try and reverse the solenoid wires as posted by one of the other guys. The polarity dose make a big differance. If you put a compass on the noid and fire the marker the needle should point North/up and your ROF will be closer to 26 BPS although AGD test showed that the X can only do 22 BPS before any noticable skips. Another trick I did since I didn't use eyes (because of the Lvl10 bolt) is set the global ROF to 14 BPS and the eyes off to 12 BPS incase of any ball breaks in the breach. The eyes off mode can also be set higher or lower to your liking which gives you more flexability with the Pred board in your E/X mags.

Ahhh, I will try reversing the wires. Now I have to go buy more paint....

I'm not really too fond of the switch either, but I was kindof excited to perform the install and didn't want to wait for anything better to arrive via mail. Same thing happened with that notch in the rail...I didn't have an endmill bit that size so i just did it with a regular drill bit. But you take your time and it works out.

Gluing the harness in place is a good idea. I'd just be afraid of redoing the install (or other unforseen activities) so I don't like to do things like that. lol

Anyways I'll post back about the solenoid polarity and see what's up. I made a video of the gun screwing up with the ROF set to 20 (I believe the halo was feeding about 19-20 bps, I haven't replaced the batteries in ages so I doubt it was cranking anything more).
What happened was the bolt was feeding successive rounds into the barrel then it would get a good recharged shot and would blow through all the shots in the barrel. Nothing was chopped, but all the paint would break at that point.http://www.zdspb.com/media/video/pre...ag_toofast.wmv

I must admint my frame of mind is not as finely tuned for Automag operation as it is for some other markers, so diagnosing certain problems and their respective solutions takes me a bit longer...but hey, that's why I bought another mag to fool around with (haven't owned one for two years).

Ahhh, I will try reversing the wires. Now I have to go buy more paint....

I'm not really too fond of the switch either, but I was kindof excited to perform the install and didn't want to wait for anything better to arrive via mail. Same thing happened with that notch in the rail...I didn't have an endmill bit that size so i just did it with a regular drill bit. But you take your time and it works out.

Gluing the harness in place is a good idea. I'd just be afraid of redoing the install (or other unforseen activities) so I don't like to do things like that. lol

Anyways I'll post back about the solenoid polarity and see what's up. I made a video of the gun screwing up with the ROF set to 20 (I believe the halo was feeding about 19-20 bps, I haven't replaced the batteries in ages so I doubt it was cranking anything more).
What happened was the bolt was feeding successive rounds into the barrel then it would get a good recharged shot and would blow through all the shots in the barrel. Nothing was chopped, but all the paint would break at that point.http://www.zdspb.com/media/video/pre...ag_toofast.wmv

I must admint my frame of mind is not as finely tuned for Automag operation as it is for some other markers, so diagnosing certain problems and their respective solutions takes me a bit longer...but hey, that's why I bought another mag to fool around with (haven't owned one for two years).

Drop me a line, I might be able to help you out with that. We are having similar issues arise with the Xmod software. Its mainly hardware related. Ill give you all the dirt.

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...

Here's the eye in position.
You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.

The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

From the looks of the frame in those pictures it seems that I am actually the lucky owner of that frame with the morlock board in it now (the solenoid is in really bad shape, lots of corrosion all over the place and the board seems to be fried).
It would be very interesting to retrace how many owners this thing has gone through since then... (I live in Germany btw and bought it off a guy in Switzerland a few weeks back)
My hope was to check/fix the wiring on it and get the board up and running again but from the looks of it, it's fried. But, since I am getting a reading for current leaving the on/off switch I was hoping someone here could either:
* point me towards a board I could acquire in order to replace this fried one.
* let me know if he/she has a working morlock board (or knows someone), doesn't need it anymore and would be willing to sell it to me

Hope someone "in the know" about this sees this post and has mercy on me as I haven't been able to find anything on the web yet...