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Friday, September 2, 2011

Tableau de Parfums Miriam: fragrance review & Giveaway

The dream of a hug, the vivid bitter sweet memory of her perfume,
her hair shining golden in the morning sun, so fine,
the violets from the garden in her hand,
freshly picked with the dew pearls dropping one after the other,
the green May roses on the table, lasting forever.
It is a dream of days long gone, with a smile on my lips.

Miriam Eau de Parfum is the first fragrance on the Tableau de Parfums line (you have a chance of getting to know it before anyone else, read on!), referencing the heady, diffusive fragrances of the 1940s and 1950s.

Some people who admired Tauer perfumes had asked on these very pages some time ago that he composes an aldehydic floral. Apparently he listens! Miriam is an old-school rosy-green aldehydic floral, like they don't make them any more; perfumey, rosy, with piquant notes that register between soapiness and fizziness, an armour of glamorous "clean". You imagine a highly strung classy woman that hides her woes behind an immaculate veneer; perfectly coifed & manicured, wearing delightfully constructed, tailored clothes and maybe a string of pearls. Male filmmakers of the 1940s tended to show this powerwoman stereotype having a meltdown at some point in the plot, perhaps a subtle nod to "punishment" for undertaking more than they should. Pamela Robertson explains that Mildred Pierce exposes this contradiction of female success and societal expectations, "because Mildred's success conflicts with the postwar ideology that demands that women give up their careers" [1]. There are even modern specimens like Amy Archer in "The Hudsucker Proxy". But not in Pera's universe. Miriam can be complex, alternating between regret, love, compassion, duty, longing...she's very human. In the words of Ann Magnuson, who plays Miriam in the film: "The character of Miriam is kind of riffing not only on the forties women’s picture characters but also some of the characters that I’ve played."

Who is Miriam? The host of a long running home shopping network program (“The Miriam Masterson Show”), Miriam (played by well-known actress Ann Magnuson) is the on air confidante to millions of women across the country, But behind the scenes, Miriam is at odds with the men who run the studio, a motley crew of suits who don’t understand her touchy feely appeal. At home, she struggles with a layabout boyfriend. Her mother has just been put in a nursing home suffering from dementia. What Miriam would like more than anything is the one thing she can’t have: the name of her mother’s signature perfume. What’s left of the fragrance sits in an unlabeled Baccarat decant on the edge of Miriam’s vanity. When it’s gone, it will take a world of memories with it. Does it remind you of something? I thought so. That perfume therefore represents the memory of her mother, the fragrance her mother actually wore, but also the images and thoughts that Miriam projects into her perception of her mother as a younger woman. Makes for contemplating sniffing.

Miriam the fragrance is vintage in spirit but with a contemporary character. “There is something slightly provocative in this perfume,” says Andy Tauer, its creator. “It isn’t naughty, but bold. It makes a statement, and its wearer needs a little bit of daring. A grand perfume constructed in the tradition of French perfumery, Miriam is the kind of fragrance they don’t make much anymore.” Indeed! When was the last time you actually heard of a major company launching an aldehydic floral? This is one of the beauties of discovering artisanal perfumers: They eschew trends into producing what they like.The scent of Miriam Eau de Parfumis immediately expansive, filling the room with its citrusy aldehydes burst and violet leaf natural essence (coming from Biolandes), making an instant euphoric impression. Unmistakeably this is an old school rosy floral, fanning the tea rose variety into a soft woody base rich in irones. The woodiness is half and half Australian and Mysore sandalwood, giving a smooth underlay. I hear there's also ambergris/Ambrox, one of the notes that Tauer likes and uses as insignia. It's subtle here and very low-hum (resulting in less than plutonium-like lasting power in this case), while there is a hint of animalic warmth deep down (civet?), taking a sensuous path for a brief while. But never fear; like the corresponding character Miriam EDP knows how to behave, even if her heart takes her elsewhere from time to time.

We are hosting a giveaway! One purse sized atomiser (7ml) to a lucky winner and 5 deluxe samples (1 ml each), with a DVD included, shipped directly by Tauer Perfumes into the entire world. Draw is open till September 7th and winner announced at the end of next week. Just leave a comment re: this post.

Miriam EDP will launch in early October in Los Angels at Scentbar and Luckyscent. Tauer will not make it available on the Tauer website, but rather on Evelyn Avenue.

I love the way Andy Tauer keeps challenging himself, looking into new directions and yet stays so true to his own signature. I was really impressed with the pentachords, and this one sounds amazing. I would love the chance to test it:-)Thanks for the review and the draw

Holy crap, I read about that on Andy's blog the other day and I thought that this could be interesting to check out. I had awarded myself a bottle of Vetiver Dance though so I didn't jump after it immediately and I think it's not sold regularly anyway so, obviously, enter me in the draw.

I've been thrilled to see the advance clips of Brian's work, and I'm especially thrilled that Andy's created an aldehydic floral (one of my very favorite types of scent)! I would absolutely love to win a sample, but if I don't, I'm going straight over to Luckyscent to buy one as soon as humanly possible.

I have read so much about this film, both on Brian's blog and the other perfume blogs. Would love to see it, and now I am enchanted by the description of this scent inspired by the film! (and I'm a big Tauer fan) Please enter me in the draw!

Again this is when I wish I lived in the US! I love Andy in that with all his creativity he has an appreciation of the classics~ can't wait to be able to try his version of a vintage aldehydic floral =)

Your description of Miriam as "an old-school rosy-green aldehydic floral" makes it sound perfect to me, and I think this joint project between Andy Tauer and Brian Pera is very intriguing.Please enter me into the draw. Thanks.

thank you for this amazing draw! i loved andy tauer's perfumes from first sniff!the're daring, they leave an impression! you can't remain indifferent!they're alive, they vibrate and breathe with your skin!and they have the lifespan of plutonium so more value for your bucks, ha ha!miriam sounds like a wonderful perfume and i'd love to have the chance of wearing it!

This sounds just fascinting, and I'm intrigued by the focus on women and perfume. I'm in love with a lot of 70s scents and looking forward to Andy's take on that. Thanks for supporting this effort! ~~nozknoz

Miriam sounds just wonderful - I have a taste for the vintage, and the blend of fresh, floral, and provacative says "don't miss" to me. Bravo, Andy - this is what artisanal perfumers do best. They make what may need to experience, not just the fad du jour.

Please enter me into the draw. Whether I win or not, this is a creation I have to try.

I too love aldehydic florals, especially old-school. Always liked those classy dames from the '40s and '50s with names like Nora and Miriam and Miriam-no Megans or Ashleys back then! please enter me too.

A new aldehylic floral, how exciting! I'm getting tired of my old bottle of Florissa. It will be interesting to see if he has managed to truly freshen up such a dated aesthetic. Please enter me in the draw =)

Oh yes! I am a huge fan of aldehydic florals. Aldehydes with rose can just me mixed straight, like Rosine's Rose d'Amour, and I'll enjoy it. But I will certainly enjoy a more sophisticated composition.

Many thanks to you for this informative post and to Mr. Tauer for listening. And thanks to you both for hosting a giveaway!

I would love to try Miriam, and to see the movie...old school aldehydes bring back memories of favorite aunts dressed in beautiful sheath dresses with gorgeous pins, hats & gloves. thanks for entering me in the draw.

Geranium+rose->tea rose. Quite nostalgic - geraniums used to blossom in our garden, a few years ago and the neighbours' gardens, too. Now, it's regarded as a humble plant, and unfortunately it' s been replaced by other fancy plants.

The notes are all very "loud". I guess they have been harnessed by Andy Tauer in a harmony better than vintage. I think it' s going to be more than a homage to past styles; I can discern the perfumer's vision to transcend the mix to an intemporal joy of odors.

This has been on my radar since I discovered L'Air du desert Moroccan. Intrigued to see the film "Woman's Picture" as well - so interesting to have a scent expressing a character's personality - would love the chance to try "Miriam".

Have been looking forward to this since acquiring L’Air du Désert Marocain. Intrigued by the concept of having the personality of a character in a film expressed in a scent - would love to try Mariam. And see the "Woman's Picture" film!

Elena Vosnaki has been the Perfume History Curatorof the Be Open Foundation exhibitionThe Garden of Wonders, A Journey in Scents in Milan EXPO, as well as a guest lecturer at the Athens School of Fine Arts. She was Fragrance Expert onAbout.com. Her writing has been twice shortlisted in FIFI Editorial Excellence Awards and is extensively quoted by authors. She is an evaluating expert on Osmoz.com. Interviews regarding Vosnaki's unique status as perfume historian & writer appear in VOGUE Hellas, ICON Magazine and Queen.gr