oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj?

Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio!

Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while.

driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long.

complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise.

I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke.

Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food?

He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

Hey Lena, just looked at the new R&I and saw your question. So, that cortisone shot was bad beta? Chris in WV got one a couple months ago, too, I wonder if that was unnecessary.

All I can say is, the pain went away for 6 months. The doc who did the cortisone shot was pretty clear about the fact that it was not a cure, and that the pain will come back, and everything I know about cortisone shots says the same. It was more of a timing decision: I had a trip coming up, and I decided that I would get a shot, even if it only buys me some time.

All it does is decrease inflammation. In cases where inflammation=> pain, cortisone shot takes the pain away. But it doesn't do anything about the cause of inflammation.

I think that's where Dr. J. comes in with his stance that cortisone shots don't do squat.

And it does have side effects that are not that great. Repeated cortisone shots actually weaken tendons and what climber wants THAT? This was my major concern with getting the shot... def not planning on getting multiples.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

No shit? My bluewater's have always aged well, even under heavy use. The worst rope I evar owned was a PMI. We climbed the North Six Shooter with it right owt of teh bag and by teh tyme we got to teh top it had two core-shots in it. I had an Edelweiss that held up fore a long time, but damn those things are expensive.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

No shit? My bluewater's have always aged well, even under heavy use. The worst rope I evar owned was a PMI. We climbed the North Six Shooter with it right owt of teh bag and by teh tyme we got to teh top it had two core-shots in it. I had an Edelweiss that held up fore a long time, but damn those things are expensive.

I've been a Sterling guy for pretty much my hole like, but mostly just because that is the brand that has given prodeals to people I know.

I did buy one of those infamous fraying Petzls (can't remember what the model was) with an REI dividend years ago. The sheath wore off absurdly quick, like within a couple pitches of just lowering. REI gave me a full refund, though, even though I had used my dividend for the purchase, which was cool.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

No shit? My bluewater's have always aged well, even under heavy use. The worst rope I evar owned was a PMI. We climbed the North Six Shooter with it right owt of teh bag and by teh tyme we got to teh top it had two core-shots in it. I had an Edelweiss that held up fore a long time, but damn those things are expensive.

huh, maybe I've just been unlucky, oh well. I think the only brand I've disliked more than Bluewater is Maxim. Owned two and they both sucked. One went static pretty quickly, and the other frayed pretty quick. I was treating it pretty harsh though, Josh Minitrax lines don't hold up long even if you pad spots. I should probably really just get a static.

Sterlings are my fave, but I have a tough time finding a deal on them.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

No shit? My bluewater's have always aged well, even under heavy use. The worst rope I evar owned was a PMI. We climbed the North Six Shooter with it right owt of teh bag and by teh tyme we got to teh top it had two core-shots in it. I had an Edelweiss that held up fore a long time, but damn those things are expensive.

huh, maybe I've just been unlucky, oh well. I think the only brand I've disliked more than Bluewater is Maxim. Owned two and they both sucked. One went static pretty quickly, and the other frayed pretty quick. I was treating it pretty harsh though, Josh Minitrax lines don't hold up long even if you pad spots. I should probably really just get a static.

Sterlings are my fave, but I have a tough time finding a deal on them.

I really wonder how much difference there is within one brand between the range of ropes they offer.

Camhat's Sterlings have always been nice, but one of the girls at the gym had a Sterling that was stiff as a board. Right off the bat, pretty much, as soon as she got it, it was a pain to climb on, or belay with. Hefe's old rope is Sterling, and that one I chalk up to being stiff from being old and fat. I hated it. He just ordered a new rope, yay! Also a Sterling, 9.8.

I really liked Bluewaters, Accelerator and Eliminator, I think, and I would say, far from going stiff and static with age, they actually seemed to go soft and floppy. Drivel hated them with passion, because they didn't feed well though ATC, but then again, drivel is generally against things being flaccid and floppy.

I like my Mammut, it's the second one I've had, and neither camhead nor drivel, nor anyone else had complained about them. But I have heard other people say they hate Mammut.

It's all voodoo, really. They don't tell you this secret, but they are all made in the same Chinese factory, and they are exactly the same. They just put different colors and labels on them, and then sit back and laugh as they hear people debate the merits of one rope vs. the other.

hey gerks, I realize the whole world is on sale but this place has shoes and ropes really cheap right now. I got a 60m beal for $105.

whoa! That's a price reminiscent of teh '90's. But I'm a Blue Water man.

good old majid posted a $80 edelweiss 60m 9.8 on ebay yesterday. Some guy with a pile of them. I bought one of those too. Maybe should have got 2.

Bluewater? I've had a handful of bluewaters over the years... and I think they are probably the worst aging ropes I've owned. They are awesome at first. I had one go totally static pretty quickly, no stretch. The one I've got now is their premier sport line, the 9.7 lightning and it is weirdly lumpy.

I did have a 10.5 accelerator years ago and that thing wore like iron though, great rope but thick and heavy.

The couple of bluewaters that we had seemed to be pretty good until it wasn't...by that I mean once the started going bad they went bad fast. Mammut age poorly too, the ones I've had have gotten stupid fat.

The old Beal TopGun that we had seems to have aged the best. Stayed pretty springy, sheath wore well. Only Beal I've had though I think.

We stripped a large section of the bouldering wall in the gym post-boulder league (I got paid for setting for it again, yay!), so yesterday afternoon was a marathon route setting session.

It is amazing how many people lack ANY sense of self-preservation. We had the wall cordoned off with orange cones, and there were hundreds of holds all over the floor, bolts, ladders, tools... 4 people were setting at once, in relatively small space. And yet, over and over, some gumby or another would wander into the area, look around, mildly curiously, and ask, can I climb here? Well, NO, you can't. How about you walk over there, where there are no orange cones or ladders, and the landing zone actually looks safe? UGH! My I-hate-morons rant over.

I just started a hangbored cycle, and I am SORE. Holly molly, I am sore. Did I mention that I am sore yet? Because I am really sore!

Hefe actually had a pulley block in his stores of random stuff, and an old rope that he was willing to donate to the cause. So I am going to set up a proper system for weight subtraction at the gym hangboard. (I need it, too, if I am to use some of the holds that I want to use)

(btw, go answer my question in the technique forum, if you have anything to contribute)

So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips.

Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though.

So on the weekend Nathan built me a larger training wall in my apartment. One wall is 7 degrees over hanging and meant for a bunch of drytool training, the other side is 45 degees and I'm looking to buy (or have Nathan make) me some HIT strips.

Best part of all this is that I also got a tree house. Yes, the wall took over half my living room, but there's a super cozy nook for chillaxing in. I still need to outfit it with pillows and blankets though.

We stripped a large section of the bouldering wall in the gym post-boulder league (I got paid for setting for it again, yay!), so yesterday afternoon was a marathon route setting session.

It is amazing how many people lack ANY sense of self-preservation. We had the wall cordoned off with orange cones, and there were hundreds of holds all over the floor, bolts, ladders, tools... 4 people were setting at once, in relatively small space. And yet, over and over, some gumby or another would wander into the area, look around, mildly curiously, and ask, can I climb here? Well, NO, you can't. How about you walk over there, where there are no orange cones or ladders, and the landing zone actually looks safe? UGH! My I-hate-morons rant over.

I just started a hangbored cycle, and I am SORE. Holly molly, I am sore. Did I mention that I am sore yet? Because I am really sore!

Hefe actually had a pulley block in his stores of random stuff, and an old rope that he was willing to donate to the cause. So I am going to set up a proper system for weight subtraction at the gym hangboard. (I need it, too, if I am to use some of the holds that I want to use)

(btw, go answer my question in the technique forum, if you have anything to contribute)

Woo! Jerkz training tawk! I'm probably gonna start the serious hangboreding this Wednesday or so. Been off the painkiller for two days now and am feeling great. Need to staev off the blort before it happens.

And Lena, are there really holds that you need to take weight off for? With your weight and strength? I'm skeptical.

You may wanna double check with Janderson, but if you could at all experiment with fewer reps or something, or even work your way up to the grips by way of easier grips, that would be way less of a PITA than taking weight off.