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Breaking in a New TRX 2.5 when outside temp is around 50F.

Is there anythung special I need to do to the engine (besides the Specific Procedures Listed in Manuals) to break it in properly if teh outside air temp is Between 45F and say 50F?
I have noticed on my T-Maxx the engine does not stick up out of the body like it shows the 3.3 does in pictures.
I assume the TRX 3.3 is a much taller engine or at least has a Taller Head Unit as it appears to be about 1-1.5" taller then the TRX 2.5.
I used to have a quite nice Laser Temp Unit one of those Point and shoot type that you can get the temp of anything which worked great for taking Roots Blower Temps and figuring which cylinder was not running correctly by reading the header temp but it appears it grew legs and moved on as I can no longer find it.
Do I or should I have one of those to get the best possible break in quality by assuring the engine is at the proper temp when it is cooler outside like it is this time of year?
I was thinking since the engine is almost completely under the body even when the body is set as low as I possibly can set it without modifying the Bumper and Exhaust slots to allow it to sit lower it may actually keep the engine from running to cool (at least when the body is on) without having to wrap the engine with any paper towels etc.
I am thinking from what has been happening to the engine that came with my T-Maxx that I may have lost a seal in the front bearing so have no option now but use the new engine and I want to make sure I do everything I can to break it in correctly and get the most useage I can out of it.

With colder temputure engine break in's, you need to keep the engine warm, like it says in the manuel. Also, you might need to richen it, or lean it depending on how it's running, and how cold it is outside. Good luck!

I'd say the tin foil works pretty good... He;s speaking of 50 degrees... If it was colder than that yeah,,, a baby's sock works great too. Have a temp gun and make sure it does not go over 270, if it does richen the HSN a tad...

Also to make starting much easier, try preheating the block with a hair dryer before starting... Makes life much easier...

Thanks for the Replies, Sorry for the Delay Had Issues with Xfinity/Comcast.
Got lucky Tuesday I believe it was it was Sunny and I think about 60 (felt warm anyway) and after keeping Truck in house for past 2 days was nice and Warm (not to mention I cranked engine quite a bit to expell all extra WD-40 and MM oil I had misunderstood and loaded engine up with) now I realize it is Just a couple shots to lightly coat and keep moisture away the manual makes it sound like you need to Spray 1 sec into carb and Glow Hole 7 Times followed by Cranking engine for a bit that was why I had Drownded engine in Wd-40 and Marvel Mystery oil which made it Impossible for the Ez-Start system to crank it more then 2-3 Revolutions before Cutting out.
Anyway with the Oil Issue Solved only problem I had was Suprisingly I had to richen HSN about 3/4 Turn from the 4 Turn out which ended up being 4-3/4 Turn out
(you know it just seems strange to me that LSN also needs to be about 3/4 Turn Richer then factory Setting to run Properly Unless I am not comprehending Information on Proper Tuning of HSN-LSN after Break-In)
Suprisingly It ran pretty good 1st and 2nd Tank then had Issues on 3rd tank just was all wacky Idle was to high then to low then to high and then to low even though I changed nothing. I stopped Took a few minutes made sure the HSN-LSN were correct (according to the new Setting I found I needed to run at my Elevation, Temp, Pressure etc.) Appeared Somehow my Fuel cap was not sealing as well as it should fixed that and Bam running good again ran 3rd, 4th, 5th tank all of a sudden Idle was way to high but it adjusted down amazingly well and the Acceleration was off the Hook, Even working real hard to count to 3 as I was going from Idle to WOT then try to count 2 more seconds then brake it was almost Impossible as Truck was apperantly having a Identity crisis and thought it was a rocket as it keep trying to launch and become airborn ( At leats I assuem that was its intentions as it keep pulling front wheels off ground.
I didn't feel I did a good enough Job on Tank 5 Idle to WOT during 3 Seconds the hold 2 sec then brake so I ran a tank 6.
Once I worked on Fine Tuning I was Dumbfounded at the Insane Power these things have (not that I wasn't already Impresssed with the 2.5 I had Prior to its front Bearing losing seal but this New engine is Like WOW.
Could also have alot to do with I Understand proper Tuning Now and have had Time to learn more about the Vehicles etc.
I also replaced the Carb Body, O-Rings and Installed the 3.3 dual Stage Hi Flow Air Filter
SO break in went amazingly smooth and I think engine is in great shape and will last quite awhile as long as I don't Overheat or Run lean which I do not plan on doing. Been thinking real hard of getting the Onboard Temp Unit would love to get the Telemetry but do not have a I-Phone, Does Telemetry work with a I-Pod Touch?
SO by using the water Test I made Sure engine was not to Hot nor to cold during break-in would of liked a Infra-red temp unit but did not have teh extra $$ needed to get one, but I think the water test worked good and I keep good track of how it reacted to drops of water quite frequently did notice it appeard to run cooler on 6th tank quite a bit cooler then 2nd tank (first one with body on)

Do not worry about where the needles are for you engine/area, every engine will like a different tune.
The 4 & flush is a set it to get it started setting & that's it, once running it must be tuned from there.

Spend the $25 when you have it on a Duratrax hand held IR, it's cheap insurance.

Getting the how to tune to "click" in your head is always the hardest part, but once it does tuning is relatively easy(most of time!).