we are also looking for some options to do some soundproofing in our condo - as we have 10-12 ft ceilings we don't really mind a 2-3" drop as it won't be very noticeable

my issue is that I am worried that it is "energy transfer" as the main "culprit" of the noise is an active toddler who lives upstairs though loud TVs and cell phones on vibrate (I assume place directly on their floor/my ceiling) can also be heard

we looked into getting one of the fancy sound proofing co from the city come in but they want $2K just to look at it and then you still need to hire someone else to do the work.... if the green glue and sheetrock will do it then I don't want to shell out the extra $2K just to have someone tell me that

I don't need it to be recording studio silent just rather not have to hide in my basement to be able to take a work call because its so distracting

Dinger wrote:The best sound proofing "stuff" is the density/mass of the wall itself. Best combination is mass, i.e., double 5/8 drywall, plus decoupling of wall from the framing members, which can be accomplished with double stud construction or resilient channel installed on isolation clips. Insulation itself won't significantly improve the STC rating of the wall.

ok. didn't fully understand that. are you trying to say it's probably a worthless effort? i am seeking to engage someone who is an expert in sound proofing, not attempt to do anything myself.

The best sound proofing "stuff" is the density/mass of the wall itself. Best combination is mass, i.e., double 5/8 drywall, plus decoupling of wall from the framing members, which can be accomplished with double stud construction or resilient channel installed on isolation clips. Insulation itself won't significantly improve the STC rating of the wall.

PeteJC wrote:Greetings. I am looking into sound proofing walls/windows that face noisy street. We get too much noise from cars. Does anyone have recommendation for reliable companies that do this? There are a couple in NYC that I have come across by searching online, but would be interested in other options as well.

Thank you.

Is the exterior of the building outside your windows brick ?

Then a sound investment would be soundproof windows which are expensive but worth the investment if it is your own place.

Not worthwhile if you're in a framed wood house as the sound always make its way inside.

Greetings. I am looking into sound proofing walls/windows that face noisy street. We get too much noise from cars. Does anyone have recommendation for reliable companies that do this? There are a couple in NYC that I have come across by searching online, but would be interested in other options as well.

Does anyone have any suggestions re: soundproofing floors? It appears that my home's sub floors were not properly attached or are coming loose, creating squeaking everytime one walks ... I would like to remove the hardwood flooring and screw down the sub floor properly. While I am at, I'd like to add sound soundproofing before installing hardwood floor so as to decrease general noise between floors.

Roxul is excellent and it's sold at Home Depot. It's worth its weight in gold. You can also blow in insulation as long as it's fireproof. A lot of these old rowhouses have common floors and the sound travels along the floors, not just through the walls so make sure whatever you do it breaks the sounds ability to travel along the floor also. I used both spray foam and Roxul because I don't want to hear a thing from my neighbors. Now I hear only a distant hum of her vacume cleaner occasionally but no television or music. Good luck with whatever you do!On a separate note, Allied is extremely expensive. I hoped to get a special energy rated roof coating from them because they're local. They wanted $2000. I ordered directly from the manufacturer and got it for $800 including shipping.

If you don't mind losing 4 inches from that wall you can--and should--if the noise is that bad--frame another wall with 2 x 4's right on top of your existing wall. Stuff the cavities between the 2 x 4s with ROXUL mineral wool insulation. This is a Canadian product used for both soundproofing and fireproofing. It is not available at Home Depot or Lowes but you can get it at "Allied Builing Supplies." (and no, I don't work for them). This makes a HUGE difference in the soundproofing. It is worth the effort. Double drywall the new studs with 5/8 inch sheetrock--not 1/2 inch. The contractor will say that's for ceilings and it is but you can use on walls and you need the extra thickness. Squirt green liberally between these 2 layers of sheetrock in a silly string pattern. Within 30 days, it will cure and act as a sound dampener. Acoustical caulk is important around any hole or outlet.

I had the exact same scenario and did it myself.If you aren't handy, do what bunny22 says and hire a good sheetrocker (really any good contractor).These are the steps that I took:1) Keep the initial sheetrocked wall up. If it's brick, you'll need to add a first layer of sheetrock.2) Get Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound.3) Get the thickest sheetrock sold at your local hardware store (typically 5/8"). I got the type X which is firecoded. You could do what bunny22 mentioned and get quietrock which will help, but most contractors don't want to deal with it because of how heavy it is.4) Apply the Green Glue to the back of the sheetrock (go with the highest amount that they recommend).5) Hang the sheetrock in the opposite direction that the first layer is hung. Typically the first layer is hung horizontally, so you would hang the second layer vertically. This is to avoid seams lining up and allowing some sound leakage.6) Get Green Glue Noiseproofing Sealant.7) Seal seams between sheetrock and the top and bottom of the sheetrock.8) Mud and sand as usual.9) Paint

Give the Green Glue 30 days to set completely. At this point, you shouldn't hear your neighbor anymore (unless he just cranks his bass).

If you do hear some noise, make sure you didn't forget to use the sealant to fill around electric boxes and any other possible conduit for noise not covered by the Green Glue.

So basically the only part normal contractors aren't doing day to day is the Green Glue portion, which really is dead simple.

Reviving this thread after an extended dormancy. My row house bedroom is adjacent to the neighbor's TV room. Although he's a good guy and agrees not to play it too loud, at any volume it sounds like the TV set is sitting there in the bed. I have to soundproof ASAP to halt my descent into madness.

I have a guy who does a variety of basic jobs at the house, but he's not entirely comfortable taking on a soundproofing job. And I checked with Acoustilog (mentioned below), but they wanted more than $2K just to do an assessment with space age sound tools. This isn't a job that merits that degree of complexity or cost.

Has anyone worked with a reliable local contractor who's done a good job with basic soundproofing? Would be grateful for any referrals.

Green glue is a very good thing. It's expensive but worth it. What you really need is a sheetrocker--this will be cheaper than a soundproofing company. Spend the money on materials. Use 2 layers of sheetrock with green glue in between--like a peanut butter sandwich. Use quiet rock for at least one of those layers. Buy some acoustical caulk for around the outlets and things should be very quiet.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good sound proofing company? I have a shared wall with another row house and I can hear when my new neighbor sneezes which is not a good sign! I have read about the foam, thicker dry wall, some green glue etc. but was hoping someone might be able to recommend a good company!