Insiders Guide: Florence

Sit on the Piazza dellaSignoria in the evening and listen to the music. Its a free outdoor concert.

Go to Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset for the best views of the city. While there explore the nearby San Miniato al Monte and stop in to listen to the chanting of the monks.

Do your Christmas shopping early as with so many artisan craftsmen in the area you will find unique and one of a kind gifts.

Stop and taste the wine. So many great bottles, so little time!

Explore the Santo Spirito area in the Oltrarno side of the river. Lively part of Florence where the locals hang out.

Art without the crowds: the BranacciChapel in Santa Maria del Carmine has outstanding 15th century frescos and showcasing some of Masaccio’s early work. A rare jewel and worth the effort.

Piazzale Michelangelo

DRINK

Head for the piazzas! And the popular Caffe Gillior Rivoirefor aperitivo time or after dinner drinks. You’ll have a near feast of aperitivo snacks or enjoy the free music on the piazzas for after dinner entertainment.Not to mention any time is a good time to sit in a caffe and people watch, rest one’s feet, or just enjoy an espresso in these two spots, this is Italy after all and caffe life is the way of life here.

For a more trendy twist on cocktail hour, L’incontro bar in the Savoy Hotel offers a sophisticated take on the classic. Breezy in summer and cozy in colder months with views of the Piazza della Republica.

For an upscale wine bar, and this is prime vino country after all, the baby grand panini bar Procacci on Via Tornabuoni offers exceptional wines by the glass along with the world famous Truffle panini.

DINE

While I do enjoy a meal at places like Cibreo, I tend to prefer a more laid back trattoria style of eating when I’m in Florence as I crave hearty, homemade style cuisine. A place which serves high end food in a relaxed environment is Caffe Pitti, right in front of the Pitti Palace. Their specialty is truffles though they offer a modern Tuscan menu. And for the sweet tooth a semifredo with berry sauce that is heavenly.

Quite touristy, though you will see some locals here as well, is Paoli, (12, Via Tavolini) between the Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria. A complete Italian menu serving all the favourite dishes so you can’t go wrong. What makes this place a bit more special is it is located in a medieval building with fading frescos of old Florence. A great place to sit and take in a bit of historical Florence. Service is hit or miss, but for the most part friendly. This is a good “all arounder” for a solid dinning experience and a jovial place to be.

For a lively ambiance with an elegant menu, try trattoria Parione (Via Parione 74/76). A contemporary take on Tuscan cuisine is exciting though the portions are large. The place is quite busy but the service is excellent so you won’t be kept waiting. Great local mushroom dishes.

For a good all around meal Caffe Italiano is a classic eatery not far from Santa Croce (Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 11/13r). Small but appealing menu and serving a good selection of wines by the glass. At night they have the best pizza in town in the tiny alcove next door. Serving only 3 choices of pizza all are baked in a wood burning oven and since there is not a lot of space to sit, pizzas can be ordered for take away.

…After pizza you can always stop at Florence’s best gelateria Vivoli located just down the street from Caffe Italiano. Choose from tempting selection of flavours made daily from seasonal ingredients. Some of the best ice cream around.

Pizza and vino at Caffe Italiano

DEAL

Shop for Florence’s famed artisan paper products. They make great gifts and you support a centuries old tradition. Wonderful shops include IlPapiro, Johnson’s & Relatives, Il Parione, and Signum. Buy a box of small decorated note cards as they always come in handy.

Hard to resist the many delicious pastries and candies throughout Florence. Especially when they are so lushly displayed and so prettily packaged. At Migone (Via Calzailuoli) near the Duomo they will package their extensive array of handmaid candies in boxes decorated like many of Florence’s popular landmarks. This makes for excellent gifts to take back as you can give chocolates in a colourful box of the Duomo. Fabulous! And of course Rivoire started off as a chocolate shop so their candy and pastry counter is worth a stop.