Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren was the picture of elegance in his navy blue suit this morning. The Resort show that preceded his bow at his Rhinelander Mansion flagship could be summed up in much the same way. The designer zeroed in on the colors navy and white, accessorizing with bright flashes of gold. The palette lent the collection a nautical, preppy air. Quintessential Ralph, in other words, but also smartly up-to-date.

He touched on several of fashion's current preoccupations—polka dots, thigh slits, and pajama dressing, among them—without looking trendy. Evening dresses featuring body-contouring color-blocking looked particularly sporty and modern. Other smart pieces included a delicate chiffon dress with a headmistress's pointy collar and a sharp ivory suit. The collection had its femme moments and its masculine ones, but it all felt of a piece. Only a motorcycle jacket paired with wide-leg leather pants was a bit off; the leather was fine, but the pieces would work better worn separately.

Speaking of accessorizing, Lauren is clearly keen to build that business: The first model out trailed a glossy gold wheelie and matching Ricky bag. As the show went on, the Ricky emerged in several different treatments (including those lively polka dots) and sizes. We were particularly drawn to the drawstring version.