The bias cut dress // RTW copy

About ten years ago, I purchased a dress on whim from a little boutique in Wells, Somerset (England). I was in my twenties. I didn’t sew. I was fickle with fashion (I still am). I had no idea about fabric back then, apart from the vague understanding that silk was special.

This is the dress that caught my eye. It wasn’t the type of dress I’d normally wear. It was silk satin (oh the splendour!) and about three times what I’d normally pay for a garment. I remember loitering in that boutique for what seemed like hours, but I eventually walked out the door with it and I’m so glad that I did. As far as semi-formal dresses go (aka wedding guest/corporate dinner attire), this one has had the most wear of anything I’ve ever bought.

I’d been meaning to copy it for a long time now, but I’ve been hesitant because it is bias cut silk. And not recently bias cut either, so whilst it still fits beautifully, it has visibly grown in different places from years spent on the hanger. I wasn’t confident that I would be able to identify the correct shapes of the different pattern pieces.

I also don’t sew a lot of bias cut garments. I adore bias cuts but I still find them a little magical. The pattern shapes are different to regular patterns because the bias stretch needs to be taken into account when drafting. I’m sure there is a formula for this but I’m not experienced with it. There are also different techniques for sewing fabrics on the bias. The unknown is further amplified by the fact that slippery, difficult to manage fabrics are the ones that often make the most beautiful bias cut garments.

My first plan was to look for a bias cut dress pattern that I could use and adapt. I found two wonderful patterns that I may still sew one day. However, because I had quite specific style lines in mind and was wary about sizing and fit, I chose to drape the pattern on my dress mannequin instead. It took me two calico muslins to achieve a fit that I was happy with. This dress is my wearable muslin.

The fabric is inexpensive polyester with a reasonably close hand to silk. However, the drape and bias stretch in this is still less than what you’d get with a beautiful silk satin. The hem of my muslin didn’t grow by anything discernible (by my eye) in a whole week. Because the polyester is a little more stable, there’s less “cling” in my muslin than the original. You want cling with a bias cut dress. But, apart from pressing, it was also easier to sew.

I’m very happy with the fit of my version of this dress. Seeing it side by side with it’s RTW inspiration is a great help in seeing what needs to be changed. The skirt needs to be pegged in at the bottom more. Perhaps the edge of the armscye could be moved medially a smidgen in the front. The back is a bit roomier in my version, but this is a good thing. You can’t see it in the photos, but the back darts on my RTW dress are straining and the stitches have been stretched permanently to twice their size. Otherwise, it’s pretty close. Correcting the skirt will hopefully move it from secretary to screen goddess. I might also try some little sleeves in the future.

Oh my gosh, Debbie, you did a fantastic job with this! Cutting and sewing a bias cut silk dress is basically the scariest sewing project I can imagine, so kudos to you for being brave enough to dive in… and succeeding!

Thank you so much Carolyn! This one was only in polyester, which made the sewing part easier – it didn’t morph out of shape quite to the same extent as slippery silk does…I predict the silk version (once I can afford and justify the silk spend ;-)) will be trickier!

Bias is great. Have you seen Charles Kleibacker’s work? Or Vionnet?
Threads magazine has done articles on both of these designers.

There is a free for download pattern available on Vera Venus. It is a bias cut dress with vintage styling.

Speaking of vintage, vintage (and modern) slips are/were often cut on the bias. Also, the New Look pattern range has bias cut offerings. BUT, they never say specifically say they are. Up to you to notice.
Your copy is very good.
Mary

Thank you Mary. I adore Vionnet. I’ve heard of Charles Kleibacker but I’m going to go off and do more reading on him now! I used to have a Threads subscription…they have some great articles…but it’s been a while since I’ve checked. Thank you for the suggestions. I think now that I have a bias cut shape that fits me, I’ll feel more confident trying other bias patterns as I can cross check with sizing/pattern shape.

Debbie – – Kudos to you for taking on such a challenging project!! I would be quite intimidated, since bias cut garments are so mystical. Yet, you captured the flow and drape so well. It will be even better when you venture into the Land of Silk. I love the cut of the skirt. I can’t believe you bought that dress so long ago. The style is timeless!

Thank you Linda! I was a bit intimidated by the RTW dress too. It’s way easier to copy/make something that doesn’t fit well in the first place (actually like a lot of RTW) but this one was near perfect and I was scared I wouldn’t do it justice. I’m pretty happy though. Now I just need an excuse to sew the final version ;-). I’m sure that excuse will come along!

Thanks Lisa! I’ve been eyeing up some Tessuti silks for the final version. I didn’t get this muslin done in time for the occasion I’d planned for so now I’m just waiting for the next excuse ;-). However, I’m so glad I finally found the time to work out this pattern – it’s been on my to-do list for literally years…