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Show Report

by Olivia Marks on 18 September 2010.

Marshall's take on soft tailoring for next summer was sleek and spot on, but not exactly boundary pushing.

The first day of London Fashion Week is usually a civilised, quiet affair as press and buyers gently acclimatise to their surroundings and get ready for the weekend onslaught of shows. So the scrum that was found outside the Hannah Marshall show this afternoon was surprising, but not wholly unexpected. Over the past few seasons Marshall's reputation has been steadily growing and she is quickly becoming the go to girl for those (and they're are many) that want to channel an updated '90s goth vibe. After a (somewhat gratuitous) fashion film courtesy of Rankin, we were treated to the first wave of, you guessed it, black clothes. As expected, this was to be a no frills affair: each look was streamlined, minimalist and totally fuss free. For fans of the sheer shirt and mini skirt combo, you're in luck - Marshall's take on soft tailoring for next summer was sleek and spot on, but not exactly boundary pushing. Breaking away from black - this is summer after all - we were given a selection of sheer tops, city shorts and blazers in dove grey. Is it possible that Hannah Marshall had a London summer in mind when designing this collection? God knows it wasn't anywhere where the sun might shine. Razor sharp shoulders, previous stalwarts in Marshall's shows, were distinctly lacking for next season, being replaced by subtle, and not so subtle, accordion pleats on blazer sleeves and skirts. A welcome addition of detail in this understated show, and perhaps the only touch that distinguished this as a Marshall collection.