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How To Use Shuffleboard Climatic Adjusters

Shuffleboard tables bring plenty of fun into our homes, but it’s important to properly maintain them, especially the shuffleboard climate adjusters. Even the casual shuffleboard fan has probably heard of shuffleboard wax, and avid players will be familiar with silicone spray as well. These items will keep the surface of your table in prime condition, but learning more about your hidden climate adjusters will guarantee optimal gameplay.

Since shuffleboard tables are made out of wood, the playfield can actually expand a little bit in humid weather and contract somewhat in drier surroundings. Changes in temperature can even lead to warping. Climatic adjusters allow you to control the surface of your shuffleboard table to allow for changes in weather.

Shuffleboard climatic adjusters are bolted to the bottom of the board. Depending on the length of your table, you will usually have anywhere from four to six climatic adjusters per board. Generally, they are positioned about a foot from the end of the playing surface on each end. The adjusters should be placed about three to four feet apart from one another.

At McClure, the surface of our shuffleboard tables is set up with a slight dip in it, which is referred to as being concave. This will prevent the pucks from falling off the sides of the board and into the gutter. You can test how concave your shuffleboard is by taking a straight edge and laying it flat across the surface of the board. If you can comfortably slide a piece of paper across the board beneath the straight edge, your shuffleboard table is just the recommended amount of concave.

Now that we know exactly what shuffleboard climatic adjusters are and what they do, we can go over how to use them. The climatic adjusters we use at McClure Tables are made out of steel, painted black, and work on boards up to 2″ inches think. Using them is actually quite simple. Each bracket has nuts on the inside and nuts on the outside. Adjusting these nuts is what allows you to adjust the surface of the board.

To adjust the concave level of your table, first loosen the inside nut all the way on both sides. Next, tighten the outside nut using two turns. Do the exact same thing to the other outside nut. Repeat the process and allow for a few days in between adjusting to see changes! To adjust the convex level of your table, you do the exact opposite. First loosen the outside nut all the way on both sides. Slowly tighten the inside nut using two turns, and repeat on the other side.

The best shuffleboard player knows their shuffleboard table inside and out. The ability to control some aspects of the surface of the table is crucial for understanding your shuffleboard. Once you get a good feel for your table, shuffleboard climatic adjusters will allow you to make the slightest of adjustments to the surface. The attention to detail will not only hone your shuffleboard skills, but also keep your shuffleboard table in tip-top shape for all weather conditions.

Do you have the style climate adjusters with one bolt in the center and nuts on a bar? Or the style with brackets and each bracket has several wood screws holding on the climate adjusters? I would use some wood and glue if it is a wood screw into a hole and see if you can get the screw to grip

I have a problem. I made a custom board but did not include climate adjusters. Table looks amazing but I noticed after creating the play field that I had a fairly severe convex bow but was fine with it because was finishing with 1/8″ self leveling epoxy resin. Well, I got a nice surprise, I got a nice epoxy resin finished beautiful play field that is currently 100% unplayable. It finished with a convex bow that will send any puck off the table right or left.

So, I am at a loss. Should I do another 1/8″ epoxy coat? If I do I am afraid I will end up with the same. I am considering your four bolt adjusters but to be honest, I do not think the adjusters will be able to level the table as it is a heavy son of a buck at 2.5″ thick and 16′ x 20″ Any suggestion on what could bring the center back down? I am also afraid the adjusters would crack the resin finish when I try to adjust to eliminate the hump. Please help, my family wants to PLAY!

The epoxy only real advantage is it is a material that a do it yourself shop can work with or you can even apply in the field but the problem is the material does self level but also follows what is under. If your board was convex when you did the pour it will be convex after and you would notice less or thinner polymer in the center of the board and thicker on the outside. Often many polymer boards even factory poured are not perfect if you examine them you may find similar irregularities like maybe thicker epoxy on one side and thinner on the other.
We consider this a patchwork or a alternative to a proper calibrated precise hard maple butcher block surface. Because you see all polymer poured epoxy tops are basically a slab of wood dammed up and then a two part liquid poured out on top that will self level and cure a plastic top coat usually 1/4” thick.
You might be able to now mount some climate adjusters and put a straight edge on the surface and try to correct but as you suspect if the board is convex and 2.5” thick may not move. That is what a large commercial knife planner sander machine maybe needed to prepare the block and surface it perfectly flat prior to the pour. Good luck