The hesitation happens while cruising and then lightly pressing the gas while accelerating out of a gentle curve or speeding up on the highway. It feels like someone either stomps the brake or shuts the engine off for a split second. It doesn't happen predictably and I can't replicate it.

I do know the motor is starting to go and I have a weak hesitation nothing like what is happening on bad days off the line when its knocking. Would this be knock sensor or something else? Center diff binding? Power napping?

Thanks in advance.

monkeyposeur

02-22-2013 10:05 PM

Clean the MAF and report back.

Tr00b

02-22-2013 10:25 PM

To best describe this, it doesn't feel like an electronic nanny messing up causing a stumble. Its more of a WHAM like smashing the brake pedal about half way then letting off. My check underpants light lights up every time

Will clean sensor if I have some cleaner left...

Just recently i paid $190 to have my trans and rear end fluid changed because the car was making a terrible whining noise like straight cut gears. Mechanic said fluid looked fine and was not low. I have a feeling this has something to do with a failing component that is binding either motor or drivetrain.

wish

02-23-2013 02:16 PM

$190?! Jesus, you got ripped off.

Tr00b

02-23-2013 06:34 PM

Yeah, but if your car is making an awful noise, its 15 below wind chills and the asshole Chinese engineers that built the car hid the dipstick (and google is of course worthless) so you don't know if your transmission fluid is critically low... Do you drive it home or fix it before you dump a trans? I also had some minor radiator work and they seem to have fixed the leak so it was in a sense worth it. Its my bad for not changing it when I got the car (PO said it was changed though)...

I drove it all day today and no hesitations like described. I did have alot of knocking and off the line hesitations from the knocking, but I know that problem.

jarmerson

02-23-2013 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tr00b
(Post 4308626)

Yeah, but if your car is making an awful noise, its 15 below wind chills and the asshole Chinese engineers that built the car hid the dipstick (and google is of course worthless) so you don't know if your transmission fluid is critically low... )...

I thought it was Japanese?

spooln30

02-25-2013 11:16 PM

My 99 LGT does a similar thing when I press the throttle to speed up. It mostly happens at lower speeds and I believe it's due to the CIA I have installed. Mostly because it's worse when the engine is cold and its cold outside. Clean the MAF and drive it a little after so the ECU recalibrates.

Tr00b

03-25-2013 09:37 PM

After cleaning the MAF (had to buy a security torx bit set....) I haven't experienced the random-while driving hesitation anymore. I still have a hesitation when accelerating from a stop which is either the hill holder being a B, TPS, bearing knock setting off the knock sensor, or ignition related.

Thanks for the input guys.

snederhiser

03-25-2013 10:06 PM

Hello;
I would try a knock sensor off of ebay. For under $12.00 might just be the ticket. Steven.

Rick Towers

03-26-2013 08:23 AM

I agree with "snederhiser", get an ebay knock sensor. The one on the car now may have a hair line crack in it.

Tr00b

03-27-2013 10:25 PM

Meaning its overreactive to knock or underreactive to knock? I do have main bearing wear on the cyl next to the knock sensor

snederhiser

03-28-2013 07:05 PM

Hello;
The knock sensor helps the computer to determine the timing advance. A bad one can actually make the engine knock because the computer does not have that third eye. Sound travels thru an engine block. What you might think you hear on the right is actually coming from the left. If the engine is worn out and rods are knocking or the mains rattling, then a sensor will not help you out! Steven.

Tr00b

03-30-2013 07:30 AM

The car took a turn for the worse. Horrible misfire, flashing CEL. Randomly goes from running fine to running like ass. Will never accelerate from a stop without falling all over itself. Pulled codes was for the cat converter running below efficiency (bank 1) well no **** sherlock the car is only running on 2 cyl!

I discovered oil leak on spark plug 3 (had misfire code for cyl 3 after driving for an hour, finally) cleaned the oil off of the spark plug and boot, and the hole that it leaked into, retorqued the bolts on the valvecover gasket. Still have misfire.

Checked and calibrated the TPS with the Torque App on my phone. Man that works slick. TPS all fine.

Cleaned, lubed the IAC. Was really dirty and idles better but again, no diff in the misfire and still stumbling bad off the line.

Got desperate, pulled the knock sensor. That looks really good if not new, and the PO said it had a new one 30k ago.

Really fishing with dynamite here, cleaned all the grounds I could find, which were not all that bad. Still not much of a difference, but the 2 cyl thing is down to a dull roar but still happened a couple times on a test drive.

I am down to cam and crank sensors (which I know are clean because I just did the timing belt) perhaps fuel pressure, and lastly the coil pack itself. All the ignition parts besides the coil are new ish.

monkeyposeur

03-30-2013 08:38 AM

I have a working coil pack you can have. It was on my L but I found a newer one at the junkyard. It still works. Have you checked the resistance across the primary and secondary coils, and the resistance across the injector pins?

Tr00b

03-30-2013 01:34 PM

Replaced coil pack with good used unit. No diff. Tried diff spark plug wires. No diff.

Helps if the fuel injector number three is plugged in all the way. That little click makes a big difference. Went to remove injector harness to test injector resistance per your instruction monkey... What the... this thing isn't connected all the way.

However the car still falls on its face off the line. Dumped in a whole can of seafoam grabbed new plugs and a fuel filter... let's see if we can knock it out.