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Figuring out a system and method…

Crude but a germ of an idea worth exploring. Now to make something more beautiful. I would need to create some moulds. At this point it is only an idea. I needed help. Darren Murphy footwear designer and technical tutor was amazing. He had millinnary experience. See I didn’t even realize this is what I was doing or needed to help move on the process. I needed steam to mould the felt around the last and the form (heel). But that is not where it stops – Ian the technician was very hands on the help which was crucial as I am inexperienced in the key fit points of footwear. Then there was both Elain and George in the closing room who when Mark the pattern cutting tutor suggested a stroble sewing machine and none was to be found in the college, Elain showed me an old overlocking Singer which could do the job.

leather attached to last for heel mould

cork and neoprene on last to be shaped down

heel mould

last and heel mould

So the central back seam was done with the over locking Singer then the “cone” was steamed and moulded around the base

felt "cones" with one central back seam

Felt "cones", last and mould, steamer

felt steamed and stapled into place

then the punched insole (which had holes planned according to pressure) was sewn in by hand with a curved needle.