How much do the ARP bolts weigh compared to the factory bolts they're replacing? Have you done a weight comparison?

No because that would mean that I had forethought like you which I don't!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synner

You would need titanium bolts for a significant weight difference; not worth it to me.

I agree

Quote:

Originally Posted by snickerdoodle

Anyone have a idea how much weight could be saved via Titanium bolts???

Straight from ARP catalog. See text in the box at the bottom of the page.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 14pilot

$20K in titanium bolts would save you about 40 lbs...

Dang that is a lot for very little.

Quick Update:

Control Arms

Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures on the arms. It would have made it easier to appreciate all the work that went into them. Trust me they didn't look like this before.

I polished the caps on all the arms including the tie rods on the PS rack (not shown in the pics). When the car will be on the lift I will be able to admire all 6 caps being detailed.

Once I receive the Pfadt bushings I will replace these. I will also finish cleaning the arm. The perimeter gives you an idea of how rough the arms were.

What the heck, why not polish the clip for the boot (look closely) while Iím at it. I also polished the tips of the bolt that will be coming through the spindle.

By the way, I am currently working on the rear sub. Wait to you guys see it. I'm just currently trying to bring this thread current with the stuff I had already done. Te Hammerhead is also looking killer! Stay tuned!

You can get aluminum bolts, nuts, washers, etc. which can be used for non-critical areas. They weigh about a third of what steel hardware does. They're also a lot cheaper than titanium.

I've considered that as one of my future projects to reduce more weight; switching out steel fasteners for aluminum in the front of the car wherever reasonable to do so. Might be able to save 5-10 lbs that way. Not a critical thing to do but just one of those casual projects for a weekend.

You can get aluminum bolts, nuts, washers, etc. which can be used for non-critical areas. They weigh about a third of what steel hardware does. They're also a lot cheaper than titanium.

I've considered that as one of my future projects to reduce more weight; switching out steel fasteners for aluminum in the front of the car wherever reasonable to do so. Might be able to save 5-10 lbs that way. Not a critical thing to do but just one of those casual projects for a weekend.

Hey Doc, Have you sourced a supplier for the aluminum bolts and what bolts did you have in mind that we can replace?

Update:

Power Steering Rack

Here are the humble beginnings of what we started with.

the plan was to pay homage to the Pfadt suspension components.

In the picture below, we developed a game plan on how to style the rack. The red circles represented the parts that were to be polished for a chrome finish; the orange circle represented the part that we were going to anodize in the Pfadt orange; the beige circle, the body of the rack, we were going to try to come as close to the Pfadt struts color as possible. Like all good plans, things did change as we progressed.

The process started with the dissasembly of the rack. We enlisted Leeís Power Steering for the job.
Our first snag was that since this power steering rack was a new, late model design, there was not a tool available to remove the internal nut.

Most racks only require a four tooth socket to remove the nut. Ours required a five tooth socket. So we had to machine one.

Once the rack was completely disassembled, it was time to start detailing.
Not every day that you get to see the guts of your power steering rack!

We started to detail each separate component. This piece is where all the lines connect to. The plan was to anodize it orange to stay consistent with the Pfadt colors.
Raw beginnings: Since it was created by sand casting, it had a very rough finish.

In order to get a machined look, we hand sanded the entire piece. Hand sanding is a much more time consuming process than using power tools, but it is the most effective method to get an even surface.

Casted pieces will usually not give you as bright of an anodized finish as a billet piece. To help get that desired finish, we polished the piece to a mirror finish.

The piece was shipped to Pilkington Inc. in Utah to be anodized by the same company that does the anodizing for Pfadt.

Before sending the housing to get powder coated in anthracite, we removed all of the seams and casting on the power steering housing. This is the before picture.

Many folks were instrumental in the completion of the rack. Jerry and Adam from Leeís Power Steering are hard at work putting the rack back together. These guys really know their stuff. They machine pretty much all of their own stuff. The cad plated fittings were machined at the shop.

In order to replace the factory hard lines with AN stainless steel braided lines, Leeís Power Steering machined these fittings. We had them CAD plated to provide a nice contrast.

Next up was the installation of the braided lines.

There wasnít a detail that didnít get addressed. The factory clamp below is of the garden variety and not up to the level we desired. So we replaced them with stainless steel clamps which were polished before they were installed.

In the picture below, we developed a game plan on how to style the rack. The red circles represented the parts that were to be polished for a chrome finish; the orange circle represented the part that we were going to anodize in the Pfadt orange; the beige circle, the body of the rack, we were going to try to come as close to the Pfadt struts color as possible. Like all good plans, things did change as we progressed.

The process started with the dissasembly of the rack. We enlisted Leeís Power Steering for the job.
Our first snag was that since this power steering rack was a new, late model design, there was not a tool available to remove the internal nut.

We started to detail each separate component. This piece is where all the lines connect to. The plan was to anodize it orange to stay consistent with the Pfadt colors.
Raw beginnings: Since it was created by sand casting, it had a very rough finish.

Many folks were instrumental in the completion of the rack. Jerry and Adam from Leeís Power Steering are hard at work putting the rack back together. These guys really know their stuff. They machine pretty much all of their own stuff. The cad plated fittings were machined at the shop.

There wasnít a detail that didnít get addressed. The factory clamp below is of the garden variety and not up to the level we desired. So we replaced them with stainless steel clamps which were polished before they were installed.

I had planned at some time in the future to go through the front of the car and see what steel bolts/washers/nuts could be replaced with performance aluminum. Specifically anything that wasn't handling stress; just holding something together, holding an assembly to something else, fender bolts, etc. Since you're already removing everything in the front it looks like, you'd be in a great position to know which pieces could be replaced.

I had planned at some time in the future to go through the front of the car and see what steel bolts/washers/nuts could be replaced with performance aluminum. Specifically anything that wasn't handling stress; just holding something together, holding an assembly to something else, fender bolts, etc. Since you're already removing everything in the front it looks like, you'd be in a great position to know which pieces could be replaced.

Doc, I'm working on aircraft aviation 12 point bolts for the chassis/suspension components. These are primary for strength and they are super expensive!!! I will keep you posted.

Update:

Pfadt Bushing installation

This was one easy mod.

Simply lube the outside of each half of the bushing and install.

Next, lube the outside of the center pin and install.

No need for a lot of force. You can simply push it in with the palm of your hand.

I'm still working on getting caught up updating the front sub steps but I figured I'd give you a quick peek at the rear sub...... Stay Tuned!

Justin spent 15 hours cleaning the sub prior to going to the powder coater. I can imaged he got rid of a pound of just welding splatter. You'll see what mean when I post the pictures.

The anthracite gray and Pfadt orange look killer. Much better than the factory black.

There is about 30 hours cleaning the HAMMERHEAD (a lot of manual hand sanding went into getting it perfectly smooth) but the finish product looks amazing! Here is another sneak peek..... Next it will get sonic cleaned followed by powder coating and back to Frank at DSS for Assembly.