IVDP: The Structural Body Behind Quality Port Wine

Many of us who love a good glass of wine would agree with Robert Louis Stevenson, whose famous quote says “Wine is bottled poetry”. And while I may not recite Emily Dickenson or Thoreau with every glass, there is no doubt that certain wines speak to us in ways that elicit the feelings that are associated with appreciating fine art, a piece of music or a classic poem.

Perhaps it is the hope of every winemaker that all who drink his wine experience this ethereal, sensory experience. However, as I discovered on a recent visit to Portugal, it’s not always just the winemakers who want the wine to be of earth-moving quality, but the industry regulators too.

Trade bodies exist to protect the consumer and ensure that every bottle meets the stringent and specific standards required by law in any particular region, but the term ‘industry regulators’ while accurate, is an unfairly boring name for these wine-loving people.

One such association of regulators is Portugal’s Douro & Port Wine Institute, or IVDP for short. Their mission, which they have whole-heartedly chosen to accept, is to analyze and certify all port and table wines made in the Douro Valley.

We paid a visit to the IVDP offices in Porto, a magnificent building encompassing a former bank and newspaper, and walked through the laboratories where white-coated analysts were hard at work performing ongoing chemical tests of wines from the region in order to guarantee their quality and authenticity.

We looked through the window of the tasting room at the row of partitioned desks, reminiscent of seated voting booths, where the critical taste tests are undertaken. Every single port and Douro table wine must be approved by the IVDP before it can be offered for sale to the public.

The IVDP as we know it today has a long history and began as the IVP, the Port Wine Institute, in 1933; the Tasting Chamber was introduced a year later. In 1999, they became the world’s first fully accredited sensory analysis lab as governed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). The latest change came in 2003 when with the inclusion of certification of the wines of the Douro, the name changed from the IVP to the IVDP, the Douro and Port Wine Institute.

I was intrigued by the ‘tasting chamber’ and wondered who the fortunate people were who spent their days locked away in secluded communion with a never-ending river of wine. I had to find out more.

Tasters have been an integral part of port production ever since the region was demarcated by the Marquis of Pombal in 1756. Back then they would travel out to the Douro Valley and visit the quintas to ensure authenticity of the wine. Today, the tasters no longer go to the vineyards, instead the wines, over 10,000 samples of them, are sent to their offices in Porto. The role of ‘taster’, as you can imagine, is a coveted one!

Tasting the wines is a huge responsibility, but for the fortunate few (less than 15 individuals) it is also “the best job in the world!”. Bento Amaral, the handsome gentleman behind the voice of the above quote, is the IVDP Testing Coordinator and one of the lucky individuals tasked with tasting the wines seeking authorization (he is also an Olympic athlete in adaptive sailing!).

Bento showed us around the meandering corridors of the IVDP and I was able to pick his brain to learn more about the role of taster. I started by asking him to explain exactly what it is the tasters are looking for specifically.

“We taste each sample to make sure it has the minimal quality and age for the proposed style of wine” he answered (he’s referring to the different port categories explained here ***link***). “When speaking about how we judge quality, it’s hard to explain, but the starting point is the universal concept of BLIC (balance, length, intensity and complexity) as defined by Master of Wine, Jane Hunt.”

So who exactly are the people are given the privilege of being an IVDP taster? They are usually employees of the IVDP and have other responsibilities within the institute, but it’s not a hard and fast rule and outsiders have been known to join as well.

The number of tasters varies, the minimum is six, but there isn’t a maximum, the more they have the more robust their results are. “At this time we’re 14 tasters (5 women, 9 men), including the head of the Tasting Chamber, and we have one female trainee. Two tasters are assigned only to Port Wine, 7 only for Douro wine and 5 for both,” Bento tells me. “If someone from the institute is interested in becoming a taster, it helps if they already have some technical knowledge from other aspects of their work and if the daily 2 hours of tasting doesn’t conflict with their other responsibilities.”

So how many wines are usually on the ballot? “20 port samples, of all categories, are tasted every morning and 24 Douro table wines are tasted 3 times a week in the afternoon,” Bento explains with the twinkle in his eye of someone who obviously enjoys these rituals. After the wines are tasted, the group discusses them and the final decision is made by majority rule. If there are doubts, a 4-3 vote for example, the wine is resubmitted and tasted again.

It might seem like a glamorous role (ok, who am I kidding, it is pretty awesome!), but like any other fabulous job, there is a good deal of training that happens first. Before becoming a taster, each person must undergo four months of education which obviously includes tasting a hundreds of wines to gain the necessary understanding of what is expected and accepted within each style of port, (including reserve, LBV, tawny, pink, white and vintage) and table wine (standard Douro, Reserva and Grande Reserva).

Another important aspect of the training, which I hadn’t considered, incorporates psychological preparation because as Bento explains “You can’t feel pressured by refusing a wine when you know there will be economic consequences for the owner of it.”

Speaking of rejections, about 10% of the wines are discarded, the main reason being they were submitted to the wrong category. When this happens, the producer has the opportunity to resubmit the wine for certification in a different category (often a lesser one, from LBV to ruby for example) and then are usually successful in gaining the credentials.

And what if a producer disagrees with the decision of the tasting panel? There exists an Advisory Board composed of well renowned winemakers to whom they can appeal.

Since these tasters spend hours each week trying the wines of the region, they have a unique insight into how the overall style and quality is evolving and what we’ll find on our shop shelves. Bento told me he’s finding a lot of the Douro (non-port) wines are more balanced than they used to be and the winemakers seem to be more careful to not overdo the oak influence. While Vintage Ports he says are progressing towards “more colour and softer tannins, without losing their expected ageing potential,” which he believes, is due to the evolution of the viticulture and the progress of winemaking techniques.

Think you might have what it takes to be an IVDP taster? I asked Bento for his opinion on the necessary skills to be successful in the role. The good news is you don’t have to have a super sensitive palate, “Surprisingly I would say regular visual, olfactory, tactile and taste senses are all you need, but with a lot of passion and commitment. Psychological stability is also a very important factor, otherwise you’ll give higher marks on a day you’re euphoric and lower marks when you’re down.”

And by the sounds of things, it’s a rewarding job for the selected few that become part of this elite team. “For me, the opportunity to taste so many good and different wines and to have a window into the trends of the new wines is my favourite aspect – it’s lovely work, but my teeth are always dark!” Bento says, “It’s a sensorial pleasure but also a lesson about the world of wine.”

I greatly enjoyed delving into the world of the unsung wine and port taster and learning more about their rather fabulous work. Many thanks to Bento for showing me around and sharing his unique perspective into a part of Portuguese wine production that for many goes unseen and uncelebrated.

Next time you pull the cork on a bottle of wine from the Douro Valley or settle in to sip on a glass of port, give a nod to Bento and his fellow tasters at the IVDP who are making the world of port and Douro wine safe for wine lovers everywhere!

Cheers,

Tara O’Leary

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This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.

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What an amazing trip with a fantastic group of people. It was an education about wine we couldn't have experienced anywhere else. Our guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgable and brought great enthusiasm to the experience.read more

Fantastic tour of the Portugal wine country organized and conducted by the Catavino team. Echoing the comments of the previous reviews below, my wife and I experienced one memorable experience topped each day by the next memorable experience. A week of friendship, learning and interacting all in an environment that was stimulating and stress free. Kudos to Catavino for a wonderful and supremely well organized trip.read more

Having recently completed Catavino's 2017 Custom Harvest Tour, I am still basking in the afterglow of a full week of cushy hotels, beautiful landscapes, long, succulent dinners highlighting the depth of Portuguese cuisine, and, of course, the spectacular wines from the best regions of Portugal. Catavino has crafted a harvest experience that uniquely capitalizes on Ryan's personal relationships with some of Portugal's preeminent winemakers. This allows us into their cellars for intimate tastings and onto their terraces for wonderful lunches personally hosted by the owners and winemakers. It is a wonderful learning experience for novices and wine geeks alike. Ryan is a great host, and his knowledge and insights add immensely to the experience. This was my second Harvest Tour with Catavino and they continue to deliver a very satisfying week of Portuguese culture, food and wine. A short review can't do justice to a week long trip. I highly recommend that you sign on to one of their trips and find out for yourself!read more

Our Fall Harvest trip through the Douro valley led by Ryan Opaz and organized by the talented team at Catavino was truly a once in a lifetime experience (well maybe twice)! This was an ongoing visual and sensory experience from start to finish with several “pinch yourself” moments along the way. Like most learning experiences I feel like I’ve retained a fraction of what I learned about the wines and cuisine or Portugal. I guess that’s a reason to do it againread more

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!read more

The Catavino team is world class. A tour with them is guaranteed to be something that you won't forget.
They show you a true picture of what goes on, busting myths about the wine and port industry to show you the real side of Douro. Their level of knowledge is incredible, and we had access to wine tasting, grape stomping and meet the faces behind the wine industry. I can't even begin to describe the amazing lunch at the farm, overlooking the most spectacular views that only the Douro provides - breath taking!!
It is guaranteed to be filled with passion and love, leaving you with a yearning to come back time and time again.
Can't recommend this enough.read more

My husband and I had a wonderful day on a private tour with Ryan throughout the Douro Valley. He is extremely knowledgeable and helped us learn to appreciate Port. Beyond the wonderful private tasting sessions, he also brought us to a delicious lunch at a local Portuguese restaurant. Throughout the entire day, he provided us with tips and recommendations for the remainder of our journey throughout Portugal. The whole day was the highlight of our trip! We would HIGHLY recommend it!read more

Incredible experience in a beautiful city. Mariana was an amazing guide - we learned so much, sampled some amazing food, and had fun doing it. Two couples were with our 15- and 17-month-old boys and we never felt rushed or out of place. Highly recommend!read more

Ana arranged a trip for my client through Portugal. My client is a single woman traveling alone and she had the time of her life! I felt very good about having her in Catavino's hands. Thank you for introducing her to Portugal in such a wonderful manner.read more

I can only second the comments written here. Catavino is highly professional and will stop at nothing to give you an incredible, unforgettable time. All the biggest highlights from my recent trip to Portugal and Spain were made possible by Catavino. I know how much work goes into it- thank you so much Ryan and team. I'd trust you with my holidays any time.read more

We were part of the 2016 Harvest Tour and had the experience of a lifetime! The Douro Valley is breathtakingly beautiful and our guides were wonderful. Ryan and Gabriella must have called in all of their personal favors because we met and drank wine with many winemakers, a wine shop owner and tasted '72 port which Oscar Quevedo's grandfather had made. Doesn't get any more special than that! Of course, gourmet food at every meal as well. We'll be back!!read more

When there were hiccups in the itinerary; Catavino was nothing but gracious. They understood what our visit meant to us & offered us fantastic guides & activities. We ooh'ed & aah'ed, ate & drank almost too well (!) & we laughed for days. Deep thanks.read more

No enough words, even for a wordsmith like me, to say how wonderful it was spending time with Gabriella and Ryan. Our tour with Ryan as our guide to the Douro Valley was spectacular. Excellent wines, wonderful views, terrific people and a delightful lunch topped off with a lovely boat ride. Highly recommended!!read more

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This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.