WHAT'S DOING IN; Portland

Contrary to rumors, the sun does shine in Portland, Ore. But because it drizzles considerably throughout the year, this city of 368,000 has earned a reputation of being a lush, but damp, place even though the annual rainfall is less than in Miami or Atlanta.

The best time to visit is August and September when rain is welcomed as cool relief. Because of its proximity to the Oregon Coast and Mount Hood, the land, in and around Portland, is what makes a journey to this part of the Pacific Northwest worthwhile.

Downtown Portland, often described as a small big city, is less than 20 minutes from the airport. Visitors can get there by either shuttle bus or taxi. Buses leave the airport every 30 minutes and stop at all major hotels. Bus fare: $5. Taxi fare: about $15.

A point that may interest budget-conscious visitors: There is no sales tax in Oregon. Coming Events

Many of Portland's most popular events are held outdoors. The season of free plays and musicials at Washington Park Amphitheater ends next weekend with a concert by the Woody Hite Big Band.

One highly popular jazz group is the Tom Grant Band, which performs at Cafe Vivo (555 S.W. Oak Street) Thursday through Saturday whenever they are not touring. The cover charge is $3 but there is no minimum. None of the other clubs listed have cover or minimum.

Mr. Grant's band has made four albums, the most recent of which, ''Take Me to Your Dreams,'' was ranked on national charts. The band plays pop jazz with Mr. Grant on the piano and Dan Balmer on guitar.

Some others worth hearing are the guitarist Jerry Hahn, who plays Tuesday nights at the Brasserie Montmartre (626 S.W. Park Avenue) and the the Mel Brown Quintet, which plays Friday and Saturday nights at the Hobbit (4420 S.E. 39th Avenue). What to See

The core of the city is small - five blocks wide, 20 long. On one side it is bordered by the Willamette River, spanned by 11 bridges. On the other side loom the West Hills, containing Council Crest Park, which affords good views of the city and the Cascade Range. Take S.W. Salmon Street west to S.W. Vista Boulevard and follow the signs up the hill.

Buses are free in the downtown area, 85 cents a ride elsewhere. A taxi can reach almost any tourist attraction within 10 minutes for about $5, but taxis cannot be hailed from the street. Call ahead or walk to a major hotel, where they often wait. Radio Cab Company can be reached at 503-227-1212, Broadway Cab Company at 503-227-1234.

RiverPlace, 0315 S.W. Montgomery Street, is a massive development with a marina, a floating restaurant, a hotel and stores that sell everything from books to boats. It is next to Tom McCall Waterfront Park. Also downtown is the Michael Graves-designed Portland Building, completed in 1982, one of the first postmodern structures in the United States. Because of its shape and color - a mix of blue, beige and maroon -people can't decide if they love it or hate it.

Two water fountains designed by Lawrence Halprin grace the downtown area. The Lovejoy Fountain (Southwest Third Avenue and Harrison Street) was dedicated in 1966. The Ira Keller Fountain (Southwest Third Avenue and Clay Street) was dedicated four years later.

A good place to rest is in the South Park blocks, two blocks west of Broadway where the Oregon Historical Society (1230 S.W. Park Avenue) and the Portland Art Museum (1219 S.W. Park Avenue) are housed.

The historical society displays books, artifacts and mementoes from Oregon's early days. Admission is free. The art museum, designed by Pietro Belluschi, was built in 1932 and contains a Northwest Indian exhibit as well as European and American paintings. Hours are 10 A.M. to 4:45 P.M. Monday to Saturday.

Washington Park at the base of the West Hills and containing the Washington Park Zoo, the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, the World Forestry Center and the Japanese and International Rose Test gardens, can be reached by the No. 63 bus.

All are open from 9:30 A.M. to 7 P.M. seven days a week. The zoo has the largest breeding herd of Asian elephants of any zoo. In 1982, the zoo won the American Association of Zoological Parks and Aquariums award for its Cascade Exhibit, which shows Oregon animals living in their natural environment. A four-mile train ride through the park is offered for $2, $1.50 for children and the elderly. Admission to the zoo is $2.50, $1.25 for children and the elderly.

Across the street is the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, which offers hands-on exhibits. The museum's planetarium has shows each day, and at night laser light shows are put to rock music. Admission to the museum is $4, $2.50 for students and children. Hours are 9 A.M. to 7 P.M. Sunday, Monday and Tuesday; other days 9 A.M. to 9 P.M.

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Just up the road from the museum is the World Forestry Center. Exhibits, which include a simulated paper mill and a 70-foot talking tree, attempt to make the public aware of forest management. Admission is $1.50, 75 cents for children and the elderly. Hours are 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. seven days a week.

Visitors who take the zoo train can leave the zoo and stop off at the Japanese Garden and Rose Garden, which are about three miles from the zoo.

The Japanese Garden, spread over almost six acres, is made up of five traditional gardens, all designed by P. Takuma Tono of the University of Tokyo. Admission to the garden is $3.50, $2 for children and the elderly. Hours are 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. seven days a week.

The Rose Garden begins less than 100 feet from the entrance to the Japanese Garden. Where to Go

There are 35 wineries in Oregon, many of them less than an hour from Portland. A brochure listing the wineries, along with driving directions, is available from the Oregon Winegrowers Association (Post Office Box 6590, Portland, Ore. 97228-6590; 503-233-2377).

The closest winery is Ponzi Vineyards (503-628-1227) in Beaverton about 15 miles southwest of the city. Established in 1970, it has produced award-winning wines of pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay and Riesling varieties. On the last Sunday in August and September, the winery is the site of Vineyard Jazz, which attracts some of the leading Pacific Northwest jazz artists. Tastings are offered each weekend.

The Oak Knoll Winery (503-648-8198) in Hillsboro, about 20 miles west of Portland, has won awards for its raspberry, loganberry and blackberry wines. Tours are offered daily.

Mount Hood, the Columbia Gorge and the Oregon Coast are all less than 90 miles away by car. The Columbia Gorge, through which the Columbia River flows, can be seen by driving east on Interstate 84 toward Hood River, a town that has become as famous for windsurfers on the Columbia as for its apple orchards.

The best view of the gorge is from Crown Point, accessible from I-84. Where to Stay

The best-known hotel is the Westin Benson (503-228-2000; 800-228-3000 inside and outside Oregon) at S.W. Broadway and Oak Street. A favorite of visiting dignitaries, it is traditionally styled and has 350 rooms. Rates for two range from $119 to $135 a night.

The Heathman Hotel (503-241-4100; 800-551-0011 inside and outside Oregon) at S.W. Broadway and Salmon Street, is a National Historic Site. Built in the 1920's, it was renovated three years ago with the addition of teakwood and marble. Tea is served in the lounge each day. Rates: $110 to $150.

The more casual RiverPlace Alexis Hotel (503-228-3233; 800-227-1333 if calling from outside Oregon), 1510 S.W. Harbor Way, is the newest hotel. It is on the west bank of the Willamette River and has rooms overlooking the RiverPlace Esplanade. Guests receive free Continental breakfast and a newspaper. Rates: $135.

Less expensive is the Mallory Motor Hotel (503-223-6311; 800-228-8657 if calling from outside Oregon) at 729 S.W. 15th Avenue. Built in 1912, the 144-room hotel is close to downtown and has been remodeled. Rates: $35 to $65.

Jake's Famous Crawfish (401 S.W. 12th Avenue; 503-226-1419) offers an extensive seafood menu. Specialties include Pacific Northwest salmon, Columbia River sturgeon, Pacific oysters and Oregon crawfish. Dinner for two with wine is less than $50.

Seafood and steaks are featured at the Chart House (5700 S.W. Terwilliger Boulevard; 503-246-6963), which is in the West Hills and offers a nice view of the city. Dinner for two with wine: less than $50.

The Genoa Restaurant (2832 S.E. Belmont Street; 503-238-1464) offers a seven-course Northern Italian dinner. It seats only 35 and has just two sittings a night. Reservations required. Dinner for two without wine: $64.

Two of the best Chinese restaurants are the Golden Dragon (324 S.W. Third Avenue; 503-223-9669) and Chang's Yangtze Restaurant (in the Galleria Building, 921 S.W. Morrison Street; 503-241-0218). At both, dinner for two with beer runs less than $25.

One of Portland's better-known French restaurants is Cafe des Amis (1987 N.W. Kearney Street; 503-295-6487), which offers cuisine that the chef describes as country French. Dinner for two, including wine, is about $50. Another, L'Auberge (2601 N.W. Vaughn Street; 503-223-3302), offers a traditional six-course meal for $32 a person and a three-course meal for $23 a person, wine not included.

Correction:

Sunday, Late City Final Edition

Tom Hallman Jr. is a reporter on The Oregonian in Portland.

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A version of this article appears in print on August 9, 1987, on Page 10010010 of the National edition with the headline: WHAT'S DOING IN; Portland. Order Reprints|Today's Paper|Subscribe