And, I did not forget this request. Flow restrictor should be on next order to arrive in December. As for the solid state relay, they are investigating a new relay, but they do not know which type nor the time line of this improvement.

The next batch of machines will have an improvement or two, but they are not saying. Thus, the price increase from them.

Hey experienced Cuadra owners, Just experienced a similar problem to a previous poster, but with no clear answer. Recently descaled my machine and recharged the water softener, and for a week now have been experiencing a problem where the machine heats properly but the pump stalls when pulling a shot. It will operate as normal when just pulling water through the group head, but as soon as it meets any resistance (i.e. espresso grinds) the pump all but stops. It then cycles through barely kicking on and off as the lever remains pulled. The espresso barely comes out. I have tried a courser grind to reduce resistance, but this is a new problem for me and this machine. The latest trial was removing the water softener completely, but to no avail; same problem. It shouldn't stall out when meeting minimal resistance, and never has before. Any ideas on what to try or what may need replaced?

An espresso machine's gicleurs or restrictors can get get clogged from water evaporating inside in as little as 2 weeks - mostly depends upon the hardness of the water. Therefore it is best to descale before this inactivity and refill with soft water only. Do NOT leave descaling solution inside as it can start to eat the metal (ie copper) or gaskets on some machines. After descaling but before the period of inactivity for the Cuadra, remove the hoses from the reservoir (remains full), run the grouphead dry of water by running the pump for about 20 seconds. Leave lever up. Cool machine down and leave steam and hot water valves in full open to allow boiler water to evaporate. Empty reservoir. Allow water softener to air dry after removal - do not leave it in the reservoir as the remaining water may allow mold to build up.

If the machine is going to be transported or shipped, you can do the same above, EXCEPT before the machine cools down to leave the valves open, you would leave the machine to full heat, then power the machine off, and empty the boiler through the hot water valve only (steam valve stays closed). Not all the water will come out. Allow machine to cool and open steam valve. It is better to keep the valves open and lever up especially in cold weather to avoid any remaining water to freeze and cause damage. It is less important in warmer climates.

Did a descale today and now the vacuum breaker valve seems to be leaking steam. Maybe a bit of scale got lodged in there keeping it from closing. I am hoping it will fix itself as it had once before. If not, it maybe time for a new valve.

The first thing I see is that the little 90 rubber cap fitting that holds the hose onto the nipple is completely melted/rotted.

I took the breaker valve off the manifold. Had just a small bit of scale on the threads, but otherwise looks pretty darn clean in there.

Does the little brass piece inside with the orafice (kind of a round piece sitting on top of a square) unthread from the rest of the valve? The only parts I have are the spring and the nipple. The spring sits on top of the little orafice piece. Am I missing anything else?

The valve you have open in the picture is the safety relief. If that circle on a square piece isn't falling out, it is only because it has become stuck there in time. If you wiggle a screw dirver in beside it, it will fall out. Normally the spring is what's holding it in.

If it is stuck closed, even with the spring out, I have to doubt that it was the side that was leaking. You might want to just put it back together and check the narrower side of that valve. That narrower side is the breather (Vacuum breaker) valve.NOTE: Be careful opening that breathervalve side. The little spring is nearly invisible once it gets away. Unscrew the valve slowly over a tea-towel with the fingertips doing the unscrewing also blocking the spring inside from escaping.

Once you have that melted elbow replaced, you might want to check for the leak with the boiler hot. By pinching the hoses, you can listen for a change to hear which side is leaking.

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