Insider's Guide to the Delta

The Mississippi Delta offers the ultimate Southern travel adventure—catfish and fried tamales, juke joints brimming with blues, colorful small towns, and friendly locals who can’t wait to show you a good time.

Hicks' World-Famous Tamales and More 305 South State Street (662) 624-9887 Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday They say their tamales are “world famous,” which just might be true, judging by the number of celebrities who’ve stopped in or secretly used the convenient drive-thru.

Madidi 164 Delta Avenuewww.madidires.com or (662) 627-7770 Hours: 6 p.m. until close Tuesday-Saturday. The bar opens at 5 p.m. Reservations are strongly suggested. Don't miss this fine dining establishment in the heart of The Delta.

Where to Stay Ground Zero Blues Club & Delta Cotton Co. Apts. 0 Blues Alley (next to Delta Blues Museum)www.groundzerobluesclub.com Blues Club: (662) 621-9009 Apt. Reservations: (662) 645-9366 Don’t let the rickety exterior entrance fool you. The apartments above Ground Zero are more like urban lofts than small-town apartments. They’re fully furnished, with kitchens, coffeemakers, and linens. Rooms do not have phones, and don’t expect a giant flatscreen TV either. But you come here for live blues, not reruns. There’s an interior entrance from the club to the stairway leading up to the apartments, so you don’t even have to go outside when the show’s over. Note: The stairs to the apartments are steep, and because this is a converted warehouse, there’s no elevator.

Shack Up Inn Rates: $60-$75 weeknights; $10 surcharge on weekend nights; additional costs for festivals, holidays, and certain weekends Hopson Plantation, off U.S. 49 001 Commissary Circlewww.shackupinn.com or (662) 624-8329 These converted sharecropper shacks are perfect for the more bohemian/adventurous traveler who can do without the usual amenities. Visit the Web site for directions.

Where to Eat Airport Grocery (known for barbecue and hot tamales) 3442 State 8 West Cleveland (662) 843-4817 Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday Reservations are accepted, but are usually not needed except on weekends.

KC’s Restaurant 400 U.S. 61 North Cleveland (662) 843-5301 Hours: lunch 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Reservations are needed for parties of six or more. Here’s the spot for fine dining in a small town. They offer a great wine selection and fresh daily specials.

Where to Visit The Delta Center for Culture and Learning Delta State University State 8 West Ewing Hall, Room 130 Clevelandwww.blueshighway.org or (662) 846-4312 Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday or by appointment

Where to Stay Hampton Inn Cleveland Rates: $109; increasing in May 912 North Davis Avenue (same as U.S. 61)www.hamptoninn.com, www.hilton.com, or (662) 846-2915

Where to Eat The Bourbon Mall 105 Dean Road Bourbon, MS (662) 686-4389 Hours: 6-around 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6-around 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday Nothing like being ferried through The Delta in a stretch limo with strobe lights. Since The Bourbon Mall is a bit out of the way for many folks, they have partnered with T&A Limousine Service, which will pick you up from anywhere in The Delta and take you back home when you’re ready to go. Your limo bill goes right on your restaurant tab. It's not cheap for a couple but a good deal if you have a group to split the cost.

Fratesi Grocery & Deli & Service Station 1402 U.S. 82 East Leland (662) 686-2253 Hours: 6 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday If you’re coming from Greenwood on U.S. 82 West and make it all the way to Leland, you’ve come too far--Fratesi’s is on the right before you get to Leland. It’s a Citgo station with an outstanding deli counter inside. And around 5 p.m., the rear parking lot becomes a favorite watering hole where locals gather to shoot the breeze.

LakeShore Cafe 4431 U.S. 82 East Lake Village, AR (4 miles from the old Mississippi River Bridge at Greenville)www.lakeshorecafe.com or (870) 265-0027 Hours: lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday-Friday; dinner 5-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday. Reservations are preferred, especially on weekends. Yes, the Mississippi River Bridge at Greenville (circa 1940) is a scary structure to drive over. I can’t wait for the new one to open. However, if you can steel yourself to make it over the river into Arkansas, you’re just a short hop from the LakeShore Cafe. This terrific restaurant serves typical Delta fare: steaks, seafood, and lots of tasty fried stuff in a casual atmosphere with a friendly staff.

Where to Shop McCormick Book Inn 825 South Main Street Greenvillewww.mccormickbookinn.com or (662) 332-5038 Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday Out-of-towners might find it tricky to locate this terrific independent bookstore. Just remember that it’s on south Main, which is on the opposite side of U.S. 82 from Main Street--so if you find yourself a stone’s throw from the levee, you went the wrong way. McCormick’s stocks a wonderful collection of books about Mississippi--particularly The Delta--as well as works by Mississippi authors. There’s also a good children’s collection. Don’t miss the back room, which houses an intriguing Greenville/Delta archive.

Crystal Grill 423 Carrollton Avenue (662) 453-6530 Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday This down-home restaurant is a short drive from Howard Street, where most of Greenwood’s tourist attractions are located. It’s packed at lunchtime, and for a good reason. Delicious comfort food at a good price.

The Mississippi Gift Company 300 Howard Streetwww.themississippigiftcompany.com, (662) 455-6961, or 1-800-467-7763 Hours: 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday If you’re within 20 miles of Greenwood, you need to detour to this place. It’s fabulous–and don’t forget to go upstairs. Beautiful paintings, pottery and other fine (but mostly affordable) crafts by Mississippi artists; bottle trees; homemade gourmet foods and gift baskets. This is the place for unique gifts, and they have a bridal registry.

Viking Cooking School and Retail Store Elizabeth Burgess, general manager 325-C Howard Streetwww.vikingcookingschool.com or (662) 451-6750 Retail store hours: 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday If you have even a passing interest in cooking, you must come to the Viking Cooking School and Retail Store across the street from The Alluvian. The spatula selection alone is worth the stop. And who knew you could buy a pink colander?