Wednesday, July 22, 2009

“What do you want with a cow head?” asked the farmer selling beef at the Union Square Greenmarket. “We don’t sell cow heads here in New York—they’re illegal.”

Not to be deterred, I got on the phone and called my local butchers. It was the same conversation each time. First, they’d express shock and disgust at my query. And then they would curtly inform me that they could not ever, no way, no how get me a cow head as indeed, they’re illegal to sell in New York by order of the USDA. Something to do with eating cow brains having a connection to possibly getting mad cow’s disease.

So what’s a barbacoa-craving Texan in New York to do? I've made lamb barbacoa, but I wanted beef barbacoa. If I were at home, I could pop over to my local Fiesta grocery store and pick up a cow’s head in the meat section, nestled between the ground beef and slabs of brisket. But here my options were more limited, though I was advised that if I became friends with a farmer I’d probably have no problem getting a cow head.

I became friends with Elizabeth Karmel instead.
If you don’t know Elizabeth, she is America’s foremost female grilling expert, creator of Girls at the Grill, author of Soaked, Slathered & Seasoned and Taming the Flame and executive chef at New York’s best barbecue joint, Hill Country. And when she heard about my quest she graciously offered to help me get a cow head so we could make smoke it and make barbacoa.

She did indeed deliver, and last week a small group of us gathered at Hill Country to begin the two-day process of smoking a cow head in Hill Country’s smokers.

Back in Texas, a cow head traditionally is slow-cooked in the ground (though that’s a largely extinct practice now due to health departments’ intervention. Today, most cow head’s are cooked in an oven, slow cooker or on the grill). Elizabeth aimed to recreate this experience by wrapping the cow head in banana leaves and then containing the wrapped skull in two hotel pans.

For seasoning and moisture, we sprinkled a simple rub of black pepper, salt and cayenne over the skull and in its crevices, and added a couple of beers to the banana-leaf-lined pan. We also decided to smoke the tongue with the cow head, even though most barbacoa-making instructions call for it to be cooked separately. (Which makes no sense to me, but what do I know—I’m a cow-head-cooking virgin!)

I was struck by how simple the whole procedure was. Sure, the cow head was large and awkward and having three people available to help wrap it was advantageous. But save for a little mishap with one of the smoker’s shelves, there was little drama.

There was, however, much curiosity from those at the restaurant who witnessed our preparation. One of the pit masters said he wanted the teeth so he could have dentures made. Another took one look at the cow head and said he would never eat beef again. It was also amusing to note that those of us involved in eating and preparing the cow head were all women (three of us, including Slashfood’s Kat Kinsman and the New York Times’ Jill Santopietro, were even wearing skirts as we pulled the meat from the skull), whereas those who were horrified by the cow head were all men. We were fierce!

The verdict? This was some amazingly tender barbacoa. And if I closed my eyes I could have been at a taco stand in El Paso. As we grabbed the meat from the skull and pulled it apart, you could smell the smoke and feel its moist tenderness. We stuffed the meat into flour tortillas and dressed our tacos with salsas, cilantro and onions. Each bite was a succulent treat. I even dared to try the eyeball— which was squishy and bland, and the brains—which had the smooth texture of sweetbreads.

If you have the time and the inclination, and the access to a cow’s head, I highly recommend you try this. Despite the savage-appearance of cooking a cow’s head, this barbacoa was ultimately a delicate treat.

Smoked cow head barbacoa, as prepared by Elizabeth Karmel
Ingredients:
1 cow head
Salt, pepper and cayenne
Two bottles of beer
Long banana leaves

Method:
Sprinkle the salt, pepper and cayenne all over the cow head

Completely wrap the cow head in several layers of banana leaves, securing it with kitchen twine.

In a banana-leaf-lined hotel pan, pour two bottles of beer.

Set the banana-leaf-wrapped cow head into the pan, and fold over pan-lining leaves.

Cover cow head and bottom pan with another hotel pan. Secure tight with kitchen twine.

Smoke for 24 hours, remove meat from head (will have to peel the skin off of the tongue), pull apart and make tacos!

Yes you can just use cheek meat.The Sams Wholesale clubs here in San Antonio specifically sell large packs of Cheek Meat specifically for all the little mom and pops to make Barbacoa.Because of the long prep ,it is almost always a weekend item like Menudo.Nice work Lisa.I have only had the real deal one time in Mexico. Wrapped in Burlap bags and buried . I will never forget the sight of removing that Cabeza from the ground and chowing down.Yoou might mention that this like tripe was considered the poor workers meal in Mexico in the past.

This was so interesting to read, and funny because you were all women! :) I've never heard of this dish, but it reminded me of times when my grandmother used to cook cows brains for my grandfather and who knows what else. He was a butcher in a butcher/grocery store close to KC in the earlier 1900's and I remember him talking alot about meat! And my Mother used to cook cows tongue,(and a few other interesting parts), occasionally. Enjoyed this post!

Orale! Many many years ago for my younger brother's baptism in Albuquerque we had a matanza and roasted a whole pig underground, head and all. I also spent my summers as a child in El Paso eating all parts of the cow...I'm sad to hear that it's illegal in NY, not that I'd have a place to cook it anyway. Another reason for me to return to the Southwest after I'm done with NYC. Thanks for this great post!

I had no idea that they didn't serve barbacoa in New York. And to think that I would love to move from Houston Texas to New York. I'm not too sure about that now. LOL! WOW! They do not know what they are missing. I bet the chefs involved with the cooking of this barbacoa are glad you asked about that head! YUM!

I'm passing this blog on to a friend of mine who once tried to cook barbacoa and wasn't happy with the results. Maybe this recipe will do the trick.

And yes, Fiesta is such a lovely place. I now have a Newmarket(Sunflower Farmer's Market) across the street from Fiesta in my neighborhood. So hypothetically I can shop for organics and stinky cheeses and cross the street to get pigs feet and cow head all in one shopping trip. I'M NEVER MOVING!!!

I am Texas born and raised and I never cared much for barbacoa. I tried it once and it was stringy and greasy. My grandfather raised beef cattle and of course I went with him to feed the cows and take care of them as a kid. Seeing the actual head just creeps me out. Its not something I could ever do.

One day, I will pluck up the mental energy required to like offal in general. Cheeks I can handle, that's just meat. Even the concept of tongue isn't too ick, not that I've eaten it since I was abou 5 (a five year old will eat most things if you don't tell them what they are and appear to enjoy it yourself). I've eaten kidneys in pies and liver when it's been served to me and I've had no choice. It is not a self-respecting foodie thing to do, not to like offal. But...I'm still squeamish. Odd textures. But. If you smoke something and serve it to me with hot sauce and coriander (I'm a Brit, cilantro is coriander leaf...) I suspect I would be leaping to taste it, no matter WHAT I know it is. Still might draw the line at brain...

...good on you, Lisa. One day I will just eat what I'm told to and not ask questions and THEN I stand to be converted...

I made one of your recipes for chili and it was delicious. I am too delicate to attempt this cow head thing though.

We recently returned from a trip to the Texas hill country totally loved it especially Fredericksburg. I want to move there ASAP! I took some pics of the longhorn cows. I would love to have one in my yard just to look at.. they are so beautiful.

Kinda weird. I was just discussing with a friend that he try barbacoa during his next trip to texas. Then this is posted that afternoon. I'll have to show him the recipe. If only there was a taco truck around...

I managed to find some "cachete" cheek meat here in Nashville. I put it in a crock pot with salt and pepper and about 8 large bay leaves on the bottom. 12 hours later I had succulent barbacoa just like I remembered in Eagle Pass, Texas!

You forgot to mention the scene in the 1950's Texas epic, GIANT, where the cabeza de res is pulled from the pit, thus causing Elizabeth Taylor's character (a tender flower of Maryland who has been brought back to West Texas by Rock Hudson) to plumb pass out.

http://www.robbwalsh.com/2009/03/serious-bbq-barbacoa-de-borrego/

I don't recall it as being a lamb's head.. even the MAD magazine parody had it as a cow's haed.

Wow! I forgot all about barbacoa... I grew up on a cattle ranch in East Texas, and my grandfather built a gazebo with a smoker just for cow heads! Well, maybe not just for cow heads. I love this. Nice work ladies. ~Kristine

One thing that I don't think has been mentioned in regards to the squeamishness is that respect for the animal is a good lead-in to eating ALL of it. I love how ya'll honored that, skirts & all.

Plus, most who started eating barbacoa & fajitas (before they were trendy and back when they were "little belts" aka tough cuts of meat), did so out of necessity and transformed the food into something delicious.

But Lisa, you didn't mention what ya'll were drinking while waiting for the cowhead to smoke???

Mighty impressive Lisa!(and fierce is an understatement).I always wanted to try it but was never in the right place at the right time. "Legends of Texas BBQ" by Robb Walsh pays homage to Brownsville Barbacoa as well.Would love to be in the loop if you ever do it again.

Oh my gosh. You're nuts. I love ya, but you're nuts. I'd try it, but I'm not sure I'd ever want to see where it came from. :)PS - did you try calling butchers in Queens? I bet they would have hooked you up. Queens is cool like that.

That's amazing. Bravo! Last week I was at an on-farm dinner called The Whole Hog. The chef talked about cooking the hog's head; he didn't smoke it, though, I think he boiled it (and made a head-cheese torte that was tasty).

Wow! What an adventure- great reading! Here in Tejas I make barbacoa in my slow cooker overnight for Sunday morning. At the grocery store- HEB- you can buy cow cheek and tongue to make the barbacoa. It turns out great in the slow-cooker-

I just stumbled across the site and I am impressed by your determination. When I leave Texas, I won't miss much, but I will miss the food. It absolutely floors me that in North America's (and arguably the world's) most international city, you can't get barbacoa. Can you at least get cabrito? Cabrito: yummmm.

Yes, those cow heads at Fiesta are impressive. Of course, you can also simply get barbacoa at their in-store taqueria, or at any one of the five taquerias you will have passed on the way there.

Hahah, you reminded me of a great, old memory of my dad chasing me around Fiesta with a frozen, wrapped cow head. I recently went back to that Fiesta, many years later, and noticed it was all renovated and nice. No cow heads to be seen. Although the seafood I bought that day was awesome and inexpensive, I was a little sad as well that it wasn't the same anymore.

you can smoke the tongue, or slow roast it wrapped in foil with onion, bell peppers, and chili powder. I would think, though, using cayenne, while adding wonderful heat, would impart too much bitter taste. I would say some oil-roasted serranos for heat wrapped in with the cabeza would be better....

As for tongue, my favorite dish is to chop it up post-smoking and make a guisada with it, and serve in tacos, corn or flour, with a nice green salsa. Just don't make the gravy too thick LOL!!

Great post! Just discovered your blog and boy, this post brings back memories of Sunday mornings growing up (and every time I visit my family in San Antonio). We always had pan dulce and barbacoa with homemade tortillas. But you forgot the guacamole (no onions please!). Can't have a barbacoa taco without some guacamole and salsa. Maybe you need to start a barbacoa NY Meetup group so we can sample your recipe! Or maybe, organize a tamalera. Reminds me of sitting in my grandmother's kitchen helping her, my mom and aunts scrape a hogs heat to prepare the pork for the tamales. It was an all-day affair with just the gals cooking, spreading, wrapping, and making buenuelos while waiting for the tamales to steam. Can't believe I've been here five years and never heard of your blog. Good find today! Thanks!

Diane

p.s. Since you have the "in" with Hill Country, ask them to learn how to serve Dos XX "dressed." The bartenders there look at me like I'm crazy!

I was debating where to go out for dinner and now I want Barbacoa and now I have to search for a good place to go. Luckily, I am in Austin, that wouldn't be too hard to find, we shall see. Over the weekend, I had some fish heads and now I'm searching for cow head to eat. Wonderful world of food I am in.

I'm drooling!! Back in Lubbock, about twice a week I would swing by Mama Josie's (awesome burritos!) and pick up a breakfast burrito with barbacoa, potatoes, onions and cheese. Sometimes I'd sub chorizzo. Heaven! We're in Virginia now and I thought I'd get all Texas-y by taking breakfast burritos to a church brunch. People were baffled. I had to give lessons on how to construct and eat them. Have mercy!

LOL I was in El Paso Tx for nearly 20 years and I have never eaten a cows head or tongue. Though I am sure if you presented me with the meat I would have happily ate it on my taco and been happy as a lark and shocked once you told me what I had ate. Seeing this though I am not entirely sure I will be wanting to eat beef again

Wow does this ever bring back memories. I have had the "real deal" several times in Orange Grove and Alice Texas, usually at my wife's family gatherings. We left there many years ago and grab barbacoa in Alice at Chente's every time we go down. The nearest comfort food we normally find in our part of Colorado is usually lengua, and occassionally tripas or menudo. Looks like I am going to have to befriend one of our local ranchers and try this recipe for myself. Got a pit for cooking hogs, might just do the head the traditional way. We'll see.

HI...Barbacoa....mmmmmm. We live in northern New York, originally from Texas. My daughter and I love barbacoa, but living up here there is none to be found. My daughter was even thinking about asking her brother to send her some in dry ice. I read your article and found it very interesting. Thank you!!

No barbacoa in New York?? I'm so sorry! I take for granted the fact that here in San Antonio, we can wake up every Sunday morning at 6 a.m. and buy a pound of barbacoa and dozens of tamales for breakfast right down the street!

1944 was when our family moved to town, I was 4 years old. When, on the farm, Daddy would butcher a hog or cow, Mother would take the head and use all the meat and make chili. Being around Amarillo Texas, no beans allowed. She had her own hand-crank meat grinder. Meat was coursely ground. To this day, I love my chili meat to be grissley and big ground hunks.

I am an Austin transplant to Southern California. I miss barbacoa de cabeza de vaca so much! Barbacoa here is basically shredded brisket doused in BBQ sauce. Recently I started searching for it and found out that "cabeza" yielded results. I found a restaurant in San Juan Capistrano that serves cabeza but it is cut into tiny chunks and is au jus. OK but not what I was looking for. I turned to Facebook and found out that one of my friends is originally from San Antonio and had found barbacoa in Covina at a restaurant called Nick's Taste of Texas. The menu on Nick's website listed barbacoa. I contacted Nick to make sure it was the real deal and he assured me that it is. I haven't make the trek yet but can hardly wait! Thanks for sharing your experience of cooking cow head. You and your friends ROCK! I'm glad I found your website.

Silly yankees! What do you mean, you can't sell a cow head? As a never homesick Texan because I have the wonderful luck to have lived here in Texas all my life, I feel for you. I can go down the street to the Fiesta or Carnival or other Mexican market and find cabeza de vaca (cow head), cabrito, and any number of delicacies that most gringos don't consider food!

I really enjoy your blog. It's in the blog list on my own blog. I've made your Ninfa's style green sauce twice and it is spectacular.

I came across your cow head barbacoa recipe while doing a search for barbacoa recipes. I'm pretty adventurous, but I do have to admit that the only part of the cow head I've tried thus far is tongue, which is surprisingly mild and pleasant-textured.

I'm actually trying to create a hybrid recipe that combines the preparation techniques for the cow head barbacoa with pork butt rubbed with an al pastor style spice mixture. It could be a marriage made in heaven!

I am a Texan who just moved to Virginia and am really craving a piece of home (barbacoa). I have spent the past day calling around to butchers and small mexican grocery stores around here, but am having no luck. Any advice?

I applaude you in your venture. I too am homesick. I am a California girl living in Utah now and man this place is so not Tex-Mex friendly at all. My mom is from the Valle,donna,Texas and my dad is from Nuevo Leon. We were raised eating all kinds of yummy stuff but the best has always been barbacoa. In Cali my dad had a "poso" hole in the ground, specially made for this. Man there was nothing better than waking up Sunday mornings to a freshly cooked cabeza along with a bowl of menudo....yummy

I have been looking for a barbacoa recipe for years .. Im a Texan living in Erie PA. I have been gathering old family recipes for myself and to pass on to my children .. One question though what preparation to the cows head . Do you skin the head , pop out the eyes , ect.texmexx36@yahoo.com

Barbacoa is indeed the most delicious breakfast food! I grew up eating this every Sunday morning and you don't have to make it yourself, just go to Tortillera or Mexican Meat Market and they have it for you. With just made corn tortillas and Barbacoa :) Heavenly. My dad always wanted some tongue & brains (this I never cared for). Years ago my ex and I were godparents to a family in Mexico, they did the buried cow and all and it was interesting to see how the old fashion tradition works. Pretty neat! I don't understand why its illegal in some places, fully cooked food of any kind we have always been told kills all possible bacteria right? All I can say, if you try and don't like it, it's Ok, differnet strokes for different folks people (^,^)

My grandparents use to have a tamale business in Houston. They would make barbacoa on the weekends. I remember my grandfather buying the cow heads, cleaning them and wrapping them in butcher paper. They had a large steamer/cooker in which he would prepare them. They would cook for an extended period. I fondly remember all that barbacoa, the ojos (eyes) and the brains. The line of customers would go out the door on Sundays. I never acquired the taste for brains, but the barbacoa was the best. Sadly my grandfather just passed away and I never really learned the proper way to prepare barbacoa. Luckily I learned the family recipe for tamales. I miss those Sundays. The tongue was also some of the best eating. It beats any pot roast out there. A warm tortilla, pico de gallo and tongue are the best.

I celebrate this adventure with you, even four years later in 2013! I have to say that nothing will ever compare to Raul's BBQ restaurant in the border city of Laredo, TX. Call me naive, but I truly believe that all the rest are just trying to recreate what Raul's has to offer. It's authentic, tender, juicy, tasty barbacoa. My preferance is on corn tortilla, with a pinch of salt, and a spoonful of well made salsa. My husband will eat his with eggs and refried beans and washes it all down with a cold Mexican coke. Yum, I know what's for breakfast in the morning. Denise

So awesome Lisa! I just googled and found this after hubby saw the cow heads at Fiesta and wondered what anyone does with them. We do shop there often and this is the first time we have seen them. Maybe a little barbacoa in our future! Thanks for a great post :)