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6498VVV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 6498VVV parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.

Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.

F1 code - gas over would not heat.

Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.

Oven would'nt light

In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.

My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on. Ta-Dah!

Oven would not ignite

This repair project was too easy!...and cheap. Sears quoted the price of the igniter at $280 plus the service call and the item cost $41 on PartSelect. The part was received the next day after the order was placed...WOW! So easy, turn off the power to the oven, open the oven door, remove the oven racks and lift the bottom pan of the oven up from the back and set it aside. There you see the flat type igniter in plain view at the back of the oven. Remove two screws with nuts using a nut driver (I had trouble because the screws were corroded and I had to use some, um, force to get them out and swore a little too). Once the screws were out, pull the igniter elecrtic wires and connector from the entrance hole in the back after moving a little insulation out of the way. Release the connector plug and unplug the old igniter and simply plug in the new one. Find new screws and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to push the connector and wiring back into the hole and cover with the insulation. Very easy job that anyone could do.

By undoing the bottom of the stoves back panel, you are able to remove the two knock outs and ben the panel up for complete access. Remove gas line and electrical connection (with stove unplugged and main gas valve turned off). Undo the mounting screws and replace unit following steps in revcerse.

glow bar would light but oven would not light

I removed the rear access panel on the oven in order to get to the igniter wires. While testing the output voltage of the old igniter when on, I found that it was producing less than 3 volts ac. This was my clue that although the igniter glowed, it was going bad and needed to be replaced. I unpluged the oven, shut off the gas feed to the oven then removed the oven bottom pan (pull two push pins back, lift up and out) and removed the burner baffle wing nut with baffle. This gave easy access to the igniter and it's two mounting screws which i removed using a phillips screw driver. I unpluged the old igniter from the connector, pluged in the new one after routing it through the access hole from inside the oven to the back of the oven where the connector is located. Mounted the new igniter, replaced the burner baffle, baffle nut, oven bottom, rear access panel cover, checked and turned on the gas, plugged the oven back in and sure enough it fired up right away. if you check the system of how your oven works and find the problem, it's easy to fix it yourself and save serious money...and look like a hero to the rest of the family.

burner head arrived when i got home from work. just timely to cook for dinner that monday night, got the 4 burners disconnect the element from the old burner, then connect element to the new bunners, in less than 10 mins, and i had save estimate $600 buying a brand new stove or gas range, this will last me another5 to 10 years. especially this time of recession

Oven would not heat- Beeped nonstop and flashed F3

First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

SHUT OFF GASdisconnect FLEX LINE from gas PIPEremove GAS pipe from rear of stoveremove rear panelremove pre-shaped gas lines to burners and oven / broilerseparate dual control valve from pressure regulatordisconnect wiring from dual control valveREASSEMBLE in OPPOSITE orderturn on gasCHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR POSSIBLE LEAKSTurn on each BURNER - making sure EACH one litesturn on oven - making sure that the OVEN igniter lites the OVENset control on BROILturn on broiler - making sure that the BROILERigniter lites the BROILER

Oven rack lost in a garage fire

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

Without the clock assembly working we not only didn't know the time but were without any knowledge of cooking temperature and cook time. The stove top need to be removed which is different that most. The gas burners are sealed so each one needs to be unscrewed. That's where you'll find the screws for the stove top, six in all. The repalcement of the clock assembly itself was quick and easy; three plugs and four screws. The time consuming part was trying to reasemble the knob of the stove top. The housings for the knobs each have two plastic pins that align into two holes on each gas valve. Once they aligned the rest is a cake walk.

Oven wouldn't lite

Pulled off the oven door, just lift straight up. Pulled out the floor of the oven, very easy just lift from the back. The only problem I had was the screws holding the old igniter wouldn't come out, they just spun. I snipped them off and picked up two new ones at the hardware store. Pull the wiring harness in through the hole in the back of the oven. Unsnap old wiring harness, snap in new one. Reattach the new igniter, replace floor, replace door. Turn on oven and cook food... fairly easy repair.