Great job on making this as simple as possible. So much easier to understand than anything else ive read. Ill have to use this in future builds. It'll make things so much easier. Sticky this? Maybe post this up in SQL/SPL fabrication section as "4th order bandpass for dummies" or something like that.

Under 3 cuft wont hurt anything. From what I understand, the zcons seem to like the smaller enclosures. its recommended a 2.5- 3.25 cu ft ported. So you should be fine. I had my 2 xcon 12's in 3.9 cuft ported at 31 hz and they loved it. Metered a 143.7 sealed at the glass with no deadening on around 1500 watts. If the zcons are anything like the xcons parameter wise, i think it'll work great for you. But dont just take my word for it. im just going off what ive seen and heard from friends.

Thats what I initially though because the keys for the Jeep have Chips and you need to bypass for remote start but nothing on the wire was exposed, and id imagine the wire would have to touch the metal? Regardless im ordering one of those alarms with an LCD on the remote that goes off when a doors open and shows which door, so Ill just save that project until I purchase that. I actually had to do this last week at a shop i work at. I used the secondary key to make sure the chip was a ignition issue. But in short the reason your prolly has that key behind the dash is because the chip in the original key failed. And alot of people will do that instead of changing the ignition cylinder. It can be done on chryslers chevys and any car with a chipped key. What happens is that your sort of bypassing your anti theft system, the wires should be going to the key cylinder and then when wrapped around the other key(and then some wires have to be cut and jumped), it will fool your car into thinking it has a the correct key in it. This doesnt however make your car easier to steal. from what i understand you should still have to have the chip in the original key to make the complete circuit to start the car.

Im designing a box for my new improved build and i jus want to verify that im doing it all correctly. The box will be for two 15 inch SSA EVIL series subs. But for right now i have two dc lvl 4 15's that will go into the box temporarily. So it will be designed mainly around the EVIL's. The car its going into is a 2007 Scion Tc. I measured out max dimensions and came up with a box that i think turned out very well. i wanted it tuned low, mid 30's and low 31's maybe. Heres what i came up with::: Pic from sketchup (Copied and pasted from MS word) Box Measurements Maximum limits for the SCION TC Width = 37 inch max (pushing) Depth = 38 inch max (also pushing) Height = 15 inch max after double baffled 14.25 inch height before baffle and 12.75 internal height for mounting depth Subwoofer Displacement- .22 per sub (EVIL SSA 15) = .44 total .21 per sub (DC LVL 4 15) = .42 total Bracing Displacement = Using 2x4’s(1.5”x3.5”) = ( .125x.292x??? ) Using max internal Height – Up and down bracing – 1.5”x3.5”x12.75”.039 CuFt x3 (Three braces) Total displacement in CuFt = 0.117CuFt Using max Width internal – Side to side (Port wall to right wall) 1.5”x3.5”x35.5” .108CuFtx2(two braces) Total displacement in CuFt = 0.216CuFt Using max Depth internal – front to back bracing – 1.5”x3.5”x36.5” .111CuFtx2 (also two braces) Total displacement in CuFt = 0.222CuFt Box bracing displacement for max measurement specs – Total = 0.555 CuFt Total Box Displacement for max dimensions including woofers and braces Using SSA EVIL 15’s = .995 CuFt displacement Using DC LVL 4 15’s = .975 CuFt displacement 8.1CUFT without displacement 7.105 cuft displacement with EVIL 15’s and bracing 7.125 cuft with dc 15’s and bracing Port dimensions 12.75 H x 7.5 W =95.625sqin With EVIL 15’s – SqIn of port per cuft = 13.5 With DC LVL 4 15’2 – SqIn of port per cuft = 13.4 Tuning with EVIL 15’s = 30.47 Hz tune Tuning with DC 15’2 = 30.425 Hz tune Does all of this look correct? Am i missing anything that is throwing me off or is this perfect?

The brake light thing is probaly the one inside the cluster. My tc does the same thing. 2007 Tc. It started doing it when my brakes were pretty worn. It was due to the fluid level being just a little low due to the pads being a little worn. Its either the fluid due to pad wear or the e brake needs adjustment, but id lean towards the fluid. It should stop when you get the brakes serviced. When the fluid is a little low and you take off at with good pace, the fluid shifts and goes farther from the sensor. Its nothing bad. Just watch the pad wear and fluid levels. Just dont top off the fluids unless theres a fluid leak. I work at a shop and theres reasons most places dont top off brake fluids when you have significant pad wear. 1. theres nothing wrong with it being a little low due to pad wear, topping it off is pointless. 2. Fluid levels double as a pad wear indicators. 3. It makes a hell of a mess when you service the brakes.(when you push the pistons back into caliper, fluid overflows from resevoir and goes everywhere) 4. its a sealed system the only reason youd ever need to add fluid is if there is a leak somewhere.

http://www.soundsolu...&attach_id=3097 I'd use this one before all the others. 4.4ft^3 @ ~33hz add a little bit of dowel bracing and it would be perfect. the other one is about 4.5 cubes too, but i accounted for sub displacement (.34ft^3 for two 12's) and dowel bracing displacement. so it'll be roughly 4-4.1 ft^3 in the end.

Thanks to everyone who has put input on this, i really and truely appreciated the help. i will be posting a build log for this box later, look out for it if you want. will also include installing door speakers extra batts and amps and stuff