gates

How do you guys put gates on your runs? In all the years putting field fencing and mesh garden fencing around my gardens and dog yard I've never figured out how to make a gate that keeps even small things like rabbits, cats, etc.. out. I usually just leave a section unattached to shove. My dog yard has a cattle panel that's wired on both ends to tposts and I just remove the wire on one end. I have a 10x10' herb garden (again with just a loose end of fencing) I want to attach a little 4x4' coop to and put a few bantams out there. It has 4x4 posts at the corners to hold both a layer of chainlink to the outside and a layer of fine mesh to the inside. My japs have been running around it during the day and then I bring them inside at night. I'll also hopefully have some seramas soon that I don't want to stick out in the big coop. Then I have a 100x50' garden I'm fencing off from the chickens that I need a gate on.

I try to either set the posts to fit an existing gate without gaps, or build a gate to fit the opening tightly. I prefer square bottoms on metal gates. Otherwise there is a gap that a skunk can squeeze through.

To prevent animals from digging under the gate, I place a piece of 3/4 inch exterior grade plywood on the ground so that it extends from under the gate, out several feet.

Most existing gates that I use are chain link gates. I add hardware cloth or another small gage wire fencing over the top of the chain link to keep small birds in and small predators out.

I got most of my existing gates from the farm and garden section on craigslist.org. I also have gotten about 300 feet of welded wire fencing, dog runs, metal fence stakes, and sections of wood fencing complete with gates.

Also check freecycle.org. You'll have to register there. Sign up for several cities in the surrounding area for the most offerings.

My brother in law builds gates when I need them. He uses 2 x 4 wood for the frame with at least one horizontal cross piece. He also uses wire and a turnbuckle diagonally from one corner at the top to the opposite corner at the bottom to keep the gate from sagging.

Then, he covers the gate first in chicken wire, then on top of that with hardware cloth wire fencing with 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch openings.

I'm glad you posted this topic. I'll be building a run and gate soon and will be subscribing to see what responses you get to see if I change my plans.

I plan to use 8 feet long 4x6 treated rectangular beams from Lowe's as gate posts. My gate will only be about 3 feet wide, plenty to get a wheelbarrow through without scraping my knuckles but small enough to not worry about sagging if it is cross-braced right. The 6" sides gives me a flat surface to land on tightly and to latch to. I also plan to put a partially buried section of 4x6 to give a surface to land on tightly at the bottom.

I use aluminum storm doors. They are cheap, and rather effective. Its easy to set a couple 4x4s up for posts to attach to. I'm in the remodel business, so i get left over doors for free. They are available on craigslist too. The big advantages are square tight fitting bottom, easy to screw 1/4" mesh on it, and latches with locks are readily available.

If you want to use a prefab gate (tho building them is pretty easy too, just make sure to put in diagonal braces correctly to prevent sagging out of square) it is really really easy to make it tight. Two steps:

1) add smaller mesh wire to cover it.

2) put 2x6 (or whatever it takes) lumber around the opening of the gateway so the gate closes AGAINST the flat side of the lumber... to block off the gaps that will otherwise exist all around the gate and at the rounded corners. This will also make it harder for big critters to just push the gate into the run. Basically it's like the doorstop molding trim on your household doors except it'll go around all 4 sides of the gate opening and be much wider (so it overlaps the closed gate a good bit). Does that make any sense?