poop, about the ride height and stuff, yes thats correct. you need to increse the shock length, so unscrew the rod end on the shaft a little, making sure the total shock length is the same left to right. the droop screws should touch the chassis now. alternatively, forget the droop screws and adjust droop but the shock length only.

if your trying to replicate the stock setup why do you want to use 6mm, or even 7mm ride height anyway?

Originally posted by poop I recently rebuilt my car and set eveything back to standard (414wcr). 1mm front and 2mm rear spacing on the threaded shocks, 3.2 mm front droop and 4mm rear. this gives me a ride height of around 4mm full weight (with battery etc). I read that if i wanted to raise the ride height (say 6mm), i need to set my shocks and droop together. to my understanding, if i want to raise my car by 2mm, i would have 3mm front and 4mm rear spacing on the shocks, and reduce the droop screw to 1.2mm front and 2mm rear. is this correct? but i've noticed that if i did this, the droop screws become totally useless because the length of the shock doesnt allow the droop screw to touch the chassis anymore! what if i wanted a ride height of 7mm? this would mean that the front droop screw would only be at 0.2mm...is this correct or have i totally misunderstood how to properly set the ride height?
thanks for your help!

1 mm of change in the droop screw will have much more than 1 mm of change in droop as an effect.

All those parameters : ride height, droop etc... are measured not as a change on the shock collar or the droop screw, but on the height on the chassis.

Droop is the difference between the maximum height of the chassis that the arms allows and the ride height.

sorry, cobra is right i wasent thinking properly. measure the droop with the stock ride height, then adjust the screws to acheive the same droop at the new ride height. are you using any limiters in your shocks? the TRF shocks should easily be long enough as they are.

i just tried the 6mm hex's , with a low rc, and it came to just under 190. perfect. i even had plenty of clearance to fit 28mm foams.

but i'm still confused
I need to run a ride height of around 7mm because the carpet track i run at needs this or else it will get caught on the carpet overlap places.
i wanted to keep everything standard (spring preload, droop, etc) but increase the ride height and try out the cars handling. that's why i thought that 1mm on the shock collar would forced the chassis to go up 1mm that's why i need to take off 1mm from the droop screw to allow it to rise by 1mm...which means that if i want an increase in ride height by 3mm, it'd be the same...
could you possibly explain in a step by step way of how you would increase ride height by 3mm on your car please?
cheers and have a safe and fun new year!

2. Back out the droop screws until you can't see them anymore on the bottom side of the arms.

3. Adjust the shock collars on all four shocks to get the ride height you want. Look at your set up sheet. Make sure that the difference from front to rear ride is maintained from your setup sheet (i.e. if you ran 4 mm F ride height and 4.5 mm R ride height, you should be at 7 mm F ride height and 7.5 R ride height). Make sure that the F shocks are the same length and the back shocks are the same length. The front shocks do not have to be the same length as the back shocks obviously.

4. Set the car's TWEEK. This is usually done on a TWEEK station (MIP makes one) and most tracks have one. Adjust the collars until the car is perfectly balanced left to right rear and front. Do the rear first, then the front.

5. Caster should be the same, but you need to set the car's camber again front and rear from your setup sheet.

6. Check / Set the cars toe, the car may be toed out more than it was. Again use the setup sheet to set it the way it was.

7. Set the droop to the numbers on your set up sheet.

8. You may need to lengthen your anti-rollbar turnbuckles as they may now interfere with the suspension. These must be EXACTLY the same length.

Whew, that was a lot of work, now the bad news... Your car is going to be a very different beast with that much change in ride height. You've changed both the Center of Gravity and the roll center and if you've been reading this thread from the beginning, you know those are not little changes on this car. The good news is you've given yourself the best possible starting point by documenting your set up.

Originally posted by Cobra81li200 I use the schumacher battery holders and they just work great.

Hi Cobra,
jumped onto the schumacher site but couldn't find those battery holders you're talking about. which car are they out of because i can only see that their cars run side by side packs rather than saddle? did you have to buy 2 sets of battery posts? what did you use for holding down the batteries in your pic?
thanks again!

for those of you who's using the servo saver from the kit, do you have this problem and how did you cure it?
i'm using the servo saver that came with the 414 kit (the white one with 3 metal rings) and i've always had this problem that when i steer in one direction and return it to neutral, the steering would stay ever so slightly in the direction that i steered to (if i steered right and returned it back to neutral, it would still point the wheels slightly to the right) which means that i can never get the car running straight. the problem with the white servo saver seems that the metal rings inside have gaps between it and the white plastic so there's always some 'play' which means that the tension of the rings cannot return the plastic to dead centre
how could i eliminate this 'play'? i've also tried using no servo saver which resulted in a busted servo so i'm not going to try that again!
thanks!

You can try a kimbrough servo saver or if you're feel like playing with the Tamiya Hi-Torque servo saver you can try this little tip I posted on a formula one site.

"What you do is you cut a 3-4mm strip of plastic maybe 15mm long from a plastic bag that parts come in. Then you fold it over 2-3 times and before you bolt the servo saver together, jam it between the notched parts of the servo saver. It should be a tight-puffy fit but once you get the screw through it and into the servo, it should cinch up and create a slop free servo saver. Of course, if you're at the world's you have to use a Tamiya Plastic Bag ha!"