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The impressive-looking beast allows head chef Glenn Gatland to cook a whole range of dishes at once, all benefiting from its subtle woody flavour; from fresh salmon or shoulder of lamb to pork chop and puy lentils and beef and porcini stew.

The impressive Gozney oven

As former head chef at Hell Bay Hotel on Bryher in the Isles of Scilly, Glenn was awarded 3 AA rosettes, making the restaurant one of the most celebrated in the region; I can verify just how special it is.

He then worked on neighbouring Tresco before making the move to the mainland and Una Kitchen.

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Drinking in Cornwall

His way with an eye-catching dish melding subtle and bold flavours and unusual ingredients was certainly evident in my starter – wood-roasted (I’m going to ditch that phrase now as, basically, everything here is wood-fired) Cornish mackerel fillet with fregola, sun-blushed tomato and fresh herb salad.

A gorgeous, summery dish, the fish was the perfect complement for the fregola which, I have to admit, was a new one on me; a Tunisian pasta, these balls of semolina dough are akin to a larger, more flavoursome couscous which soaks up the piquant sauce.

Chowing down on their Una Kitchen pizzas

The girls shared some lovely breaded haloumi with a garlic dip (a nice variant on a starter from the children’s menu) before the youngest chose a good and hearty tomato and mozzarella pizza from the same menu.

The elder two shared a pulled pork, mozzarella, nduja, chilli, lemon and rocket pizza from the main menu. Being typical kids and hating anything too spicy, the more-than-accommodating waiting staff were happy to order it minus the Italian sausage and chilli. Even without those strong ingredients this pizza packed a punch; the pork was delicate and full of flavour.

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I went for an exotic pizza from the specials menu – confit duck and orange. Delicious for the first half, slightly cloying during the second half, I decided that orange is probably not my favourite pizza topping. It was beautifully cooked, all the same. Hats off to the Gozney.

Scallops Una-style

Ice cream and chocolate brownies for the girls and an excellent vanilla panna cotta with plum and star anise compote for me brought this great meal to an end.

In a welcoming, atmospheric dining area with cheery staff, Una Kitchen is built for chat and good food; perfect for families, parties and couples.

The restaurant is open seven days a week for breakfast from 9am to 11am, lunch from noon to 2.30pm, coffee and cake from 9am to 5pm and dinner, on Tuesday to Saturday, from 6pm to 9pm.