Topics in Category: PA for dummies - Free Speaker Planshttps://freespeakerplans.com
Thu, 21 Mar 2019 18:31:07 +0000Joomla! - Open Source Content Management/media/kunena/images/icons/rss.pngTopics in Category: PA for dummies - Free Speaker Plansen-gbI am new to PA and i want to start building PA speakers - by: sn95https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21355-i-am-new-to-pa-and-i-want-to-start-building-pa-speakers#24343
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21355-i-am-new-to-pa-and-i-want-to-start-building-pa-speakers#24343Hi David in order to help you we will need some information on with you're looling to do with it. Number of people music you will be playing. Inside or out ? Br box or box's are a good all around speakers.]]>PA for dummiesSun, 20 Jan 2019 17:06:12 +0000pa for ravers Which getting old for loca - by: pentekshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21218-pa-for-ravers-which-getting-old-for-loca#24239
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21218-pa-for-ravers-which-getting-old-for-loca#24239
Maybe good in combination with a single 15'' W-bin,(Eliminator for Example) better to transport then the 18'' Version.

I initially found that they sounded a bit shrill and put it down to comp driver being more sensitive that the 12. I ended up getting a driverack 260 and EQing seemed to smooth it out]]>PA for dummiesThu, 24 Aug 2017 07:38:59 +0100Absolute Newbie wants to build a sound s - by: sn95https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21274-absolute-newbie-wants-to-build-a-sound-s#24051
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21274-absolute-newbie-wants-to-build-a-sound-s#24051PA for dummiesThu, 24 Aug 2017 01:53:04 +0100MHB 4818 Hornresp input ok? - by: mhtplshhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21281-mhb-4818-hornresp-input-ok#23984
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21281-mhb-4818-hornresp-input-ok#23984
Yes, the name is wrong. By Mistake.]]>PA for dummiesWed, 28 Jun 2017 18:30:27 +0100Some of the most surprising reactions - by: jayjoe1010https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21265-some-of-the-most-surprising-reactions#23943
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21265-some-of-the-most-surprising-reactions#23943
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searching for its first national title since The state of michigan State in 2000 (Maryland’s 2002
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champion came when the school was still a member of the ACC), and for the second
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year in a line it didn’t come close to breaking the drought. The Big Ten was the only conference in the “Big Six” to not advance a team past the Sweet 16 and the only person to not have a top-10 team in the final AP poll. The NCAA contest is so capricious that it shouldn’t be overly read into-had Chris Chiozza’s game-winning heave not dropped, for example, Wisconsin would have danced into the Elite Eight-but the conference’s uneven season resulted in a strange Selection Sunday. Some of the most surprising reactions that day came in relation to Big Ten teams and where they finished up seeded, such as 27-10 Wisconsin finding a No. 8 seed. It seemed like the NCAA selection committee had a difficult time gauging several Big Ten teams after a season that largely diverted from expectations, leaving people wondering how the second-place Badgers received the same seed as sixth-place Northwestern, or why there was a three-seed hole between the
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Badgers and fourth-place Minnesota (which got a No. 5 seed) yet just a one-seed hole between
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them and seventh-place The state of michigan State (a No. 9 seed). Wisconsin validated the claims of underseeding by knocking off No. 1 seed Villanova, but in the end the Big Ten didn’t have the postseason success it had envisioned.]]>PA for dummiesSun, 28 May 2017 05:17:38 +010012/15 2 way full range for home/band - by: ricketyhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21238-12-15-2-way-full-range-for-home-band#23823
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21238-12-15-2-way-full-range-for-home-band#23823
Cheers

Cubo]]>PA for dummiesTue, 07 Mar 2017 22:33:23 +0000Speaker wiring - by: petrikovhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21211-speaker-wiring#23796
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21211-speaker-wiring#23796]]>PA for dummiesTue, 28 Feb 2017 07:15:41 +0000Looking to Build a PA system... - by: Divisionhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21216-looking-to-build-a-pa-system#23679
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21216-looking-to-build-a-pa-system#23679
That is pretty much the conclusion we came to after digging about a bit. We're thinking we'll probably pair them with some SMT 112]]>PA for dummiesSat, 24 Dec 2016 21:51:52 +0000reflex ports - by: dylhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21206-reflex-ports#23611
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21206-reflex-ports#23611PA for dummiesTue, 01 Nov 2016 10:55:50 +0000More wattage for my speakers - by: bjm362https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21151-more-wattage-for-my-speakers#23533
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21151-more-wattage-for-my-speakers#23533
You did mention 5 speakers and a subwoofer running of an output from one powered speaker. If you are trying to setup a home theater system you may want to think about a surround receiver.. If you are trying to get the same sound to several areas of the house, you may want a distribution system.]]>PA for dummiesThu, 15 Sep 2016 23:07:51 +0100want a suitable plan - by: Vaibhavdj141996https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20730-want-a-suitable-plan#23386
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20730-want-a-suitable-plan#23386
Type of music : EDM
No of peoples : Less than 500
Application : Outdoor

In India, there is various festivals where roadshows are performed. I've posted some pics in this post.

I want the bass and midtop designs for it. Which satisfies my requirements.]]>PA for dummiesMon, 16 May 2016 09:57:11 +0100Controlling output power? - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20964-controlling-output-power#23243
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20964-controlling-output-power#23243PA for dummiesSun, 28 Feb 2016 23:48:08 +0000Rebuilding my tops, neew help with hornr - by: Lofobiahttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21037-rebuilding-my-tops-neew-help-with-hornr#23227
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21037-rebuilding-my-tops-neew-help-with-hornr#23227
I´m in the planing phase of a rebuild of one pair of my tops.
i´ve been drawing and thinking of a new design and i have been fitting a HD-15-ish kick part in to the box.

Now i want to do a hornresp sim to se if the design is worth a go.

But it seems to me that i´m to stupid to understand hornresp
How should i set up hornresp to sim the "hd-15"
and witch measurements should i do to get the correct sim?

The driver i want to use is a Fane Sovereign PRO 15-600LF.

I´ll attach a pic of my design, the with of the horn is 425mm

I hope anyone can help me so i can move forward with this rebuild ]]>PA for dummiesThu, 18 Feb 2016 17:34:41 +0000suggested crossover points - by: wingnuthttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21030-suggested-crossover-points#23212
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/21030-suggested-crossover-points#23212PA for dummiesMon, 08 Feb 2016 20:13:12 +0000FIRST RIG - by: Rog Mogalehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20918-first-rig#22964
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20918-first-rig#22964
I think a 12” driver doing mids would be a better choice, as you could run them down lower. And if you are only ever going to have 2 hogs and an HD15 per side I don’t see the need for a horn loaded mid section. 2 x 12” reflex with a 90 degree HF horn with a 1.5” comp driver would be my DIY weapon of choice for smaller systems.

It would be a far easier build too.

And at a push, you could use a 2 x 12” reflex standalone as FOH or as a DJ monitor. You could not do that with a MT102 or MT212/112.

Another option would be 2 hogs per side with a 2 x 15” reflex with 1.5” comp driver on top. No need for an HD15 then and far more possibilities for future expansion. I used a system like this for many years and it was the system that got used/hired out the most.]]>PA for dummiesSat, 12 Sep 2015 01:42:27 +0100Tms-3 replicas needs bass cabs - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20648-tms-3-replicas-needs-bass-cabs#22953
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20648-tms-3-replicas-needs-bass-cabs#22953

Lofobia wrote: Okay, been looking at the es-18bph. Looks easy to build and I can build them in pairs after what the budget says.

the es18 wont get anywhere near 250hz.... lucky if you get it up to 150hz....

If you are relaxed track day guy then no problems at all using G Subs with mini scoops, full scoops or even bullets with no crossovers playing bass. Just sit back, plug it all in and relax to some great music with your favorite bevy.

If you're a competing MSA touring car racer then you have some competition and should have a greater knowledge of your sport. Reflex with a mini scoop is doable in the same band, but you better know how to measure an impulse response and transfer the results to useful time and phase settings to get the best from your setup.

If you are competing in F1, then you won't even be trying to make two competing pieces of equipment work together. You simply go out and use the best equipment with the highest specs for the job, as you have the budget and years of knowledge of how best to use the massive funds you have available.

Do note that options 2 and 3, even though the initial setup costs are higher will pay for themselves, both financially and rewardingly. Option 1 is easy, sexy and brings frustration as you realise you were much more than you previously thought.]]>PA for dummiesThu, 03 Sep 2015 14:04:19 +0100Crossover questions First time Rig - by: piratahttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20904-crossover-questions-first-time-rig#22911
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20904-crossover-questions-first-time-rig#22911
www.thomann.de/gb/tamp_proline_3000.htm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]>PA for dummiesSun, 14 Jun 2015 18:23:48 +0100compatible driver question - by: 3skyhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20875-compatible-driver-question#22791
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20875-compatible-driver-question#22791
I would like to build a pair of 18sound kit8 tops
www.eighteensound.com/Portals/0/Enclosur...8sound_8%202ways.pdf

It sounds really nice with the tops crossed over around 100hz. If you go lower it sounds muddy.

I've just ordered 3 sheets of birch ply to build two cubo 18 extended ]]>PA for dummiesSun, 07 Jun 2015 12:37:37 +0100Amps to power 2 MHB-46 - by: potatorosstihttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20865-amps-to-power-2-mhb-46#22764
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20865-amps-to-power-2-mhb-46#22764
Im on a mad budget and need an amp to power them, any recommendations?

For cheap and cheerful i heard the Behringer inuke nu6000 was ite..

2 x 1600w at 8ohms (said to be truly a bit lower than that)

any help would be superb, Cheers bais]]>PA for dummiesThu, 21 May 2015 22:35:49 +0100building small sealed sub - by: zonzonehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20819-building-small-sealed-sub#22754
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20819-building-small-sealed-sub#22754PA for dummiesSun, 17 May 2015 11:18:24 +0100First timer with many questions - by: Ctrlhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20852-first-timer-with-many-questions#22705
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20852-first-timer-with-many-questions#22705
A bit of background is my good pal has got involved in running nights under then name of Ctrl and it's looking really promising, and they're looking at putting some money in the speaker direction. I'm obviously very interested, big lover of music and love being a nerd about these sort of things, and he's asked me to dive in and maybe even make it into a summer project, funded too (hell yeah). This in mind in the long run (money permitting obv) we're wanting to build a system that could shake the walls of a medium sized venue or be capable of entertaining a small stage at a festival. 2-4 Mid tops, 4-6 kicks and a few bass bins, I don't really know what's appropriate yet (advice on that would be cool)

Firstly, there are so many opinions on what sort of Amp to use with a driver but never many good examples for circuits this scale. It's always like 'find an amp thats 1.5 times the driver max power' whatever- I want like an example with specifics, like how would I connect up two 300W 10" drivers? Parallel? Series? Can I get one amp and run the whole thing or what?! Then what do I do about the kicks and bass bins? What plans are more appropriate for dance music like house?

I just want to be filled with information on this as you can tell, I am a proper nooby who's very keen. Recommendations and everything would be hugely appreciated. I am actually doing a degree in Electronics so my understanding of the theory is there (Which is why I've initially been asked if I'm interested), but obviously I'm learning about the ideal theory right at the bottom not the real world stuff, like I could tell you how an Amp works but I dunno how to make one blow your head off, if you get my drift. Hence I'm turning to the guys with the experience.

Cheers]]>PA for dummiesWed, 29 Apr 2015 01:02:26 +0100Builiding Soundsystem - by: rafaelkipshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20845-builiding-soundsystem#22703
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20845-builiding-soundsystem#22703
Spending more time reading threads on this forum ends up with more questions on my side...
I know scoops find a lot of support in R&C Forum, but how will 4 x CUBO 15 perform vs 2 x 18" HOG Scoop ? (dont want to start another scoop war here, just some advice to make a good decision)
The system i am planning to build will be used for Dubs and Roots, but we will play other genres also (rock, blues, hiphop, ninjatune, surf, breakbeat,...)
A system with 4 x cubo 15 will be slightly more expensive in amps but more flexible than the previously thought to build a 2 x 18" hog Scoop system.

Because the system is for occasional use (just with friends and smaller gigs) i dont want to spend a lot of money on highly priced amps (like crown etc)
My thought : 1x iNUKE 6000 for sub 1 x iNUKE 3000 for the Kick section and a QSC GX3 or similar for Mid/High Section (i've read somewhere that the iNukes are ok for lower freqs but stay away from them for the higher freqs)

A Crossover from Samson S3 or similar in this budget range

In addition : I Want to load the cubos with PD154, the Hogs i thought to load them with 18LW1400

Thanks in advance taking the time to advice me

Rafael]]>PA for dummiesTue, 28 Apr 2015 07:36:32 +0100BR vs HORN - by: sn95https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20836-br-vs-horn#22643
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20836-br-vs-horn#22643
If I had a horn that would do 27 hz,s it would not be a question but because of my lack of designing ability I have to build off plans that are published which for the most part appear to be 40 to 50 HR,s cut off .

So to me even with they're short coming,s the output outweigh,s the additional expense of amplifiers and drivers .
But this coming of someone with very little experience that,s why my question .

Btw Can you or are you willing to provide a basic layout of your horn ?
Driver configuration 12 , 15 ,18 , 21 , one or two per enclosure ?
Outside dimension,s ?

Cubo]]>PA for dummiesThu, 05 Feb 2015 00:46:41 +0000Starting at the bottom isn't...... - by: Ilovetheworldhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20812-starting-at-the-bottom-isn-t#22536
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20812-starting-at-the-bottom-isn-t#22536 One is finished needs painting, the other is in parts, as I need to buy another sheet of ply. And the budget cheap as possible, that's why I was asking about skytec

Double 15" eminence scoop]]>PA for dummiesSat, 31 Jan 2015 20:35:51 +0000Help building rig for rave - by: sn95https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20791-help-building-rig-for-rave#22456
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20791-help-building-rig-for-rave#22456PA for dummiesMon, 22 Dec 2014 00:03:11 +000012" sub with 6x9's? - by: sn95https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20782-12-sub-with-6x9-s#22439
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20782-12-sub-with-6x9-s#22439PA for dummiesSun, 14 Dec 2014 15:59:10 +0000Suitable plan - by: dnb123https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20712-suitable-plan#22314
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20712-suitable-plan#22314PA for dummiesThu, 20 Nov 2014 08:57:12 +0000Wood confusion - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20757-wood-confusion#22249
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20757-wood-confusion#22249
www.freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-fo...ut-plywood-materials
]]>PA for dummiesTue, 28 Oct 2014 19:01:12 +0000want a cabinet design - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20737-want-a-cabinet-design#22069
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20737-want-a-cabinet-design#22069
what do you want from the cab....]]>PA for dummiesFri, 26 Sep 2014 00:05:17 +01002X subs @ 8 or bridged @ 4 (parallel) - by: bjm362https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20727-2x-subs-8-or-bridged-4-parallel#22047
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20727-2x-subs-8-or-bridged-4-parallel#22047
Most of us are accustomed to old school power ratings, each given in RMS at a specified impedance. advertisers have founs a way around established industry standards and can essentially rate their power amps at whatever they want by saying it is peak.
Continuous and peak are both numbers you need to know to match needs with both amps and speakers.
Actual peak as a standard rating is rms times 1.415
Sometimes speakers are rated with continuous, program and peak...largely to confuse you more IMHO (so they can give you bigger numbers. Amps that are rated rms have worked well with speakers in the same number range as program in my experience!
Square waves (clipping) will destroy drivers really fast, in order to prevent that most people prefer to have a little more peak power than required (headroom)!
Overpowering speakers to much makes it easy to blow them even with a clean signal.
There electronics that can help with some of those scenarios, internal protection as well as additional devices such as limiters.
A stereo amp that will pump out 1000 watts per side each into an 8 ohm load costs a lot more than two amps that will each in bridged mono pump out 1000 watts into 8 ohms.
The term Subwoofer is used very loosely, a great deal of commercial "subs" won't produce anything musical near the true subwoofer range.
Horns are way more potent if you use them in the range they were designed for...an 80hz horn can sound like a bullfrog on crack trying to produce a bass players E let alone the B from a 5 string!
Nobody on the internet is going to replace your gear if it blows, so it is up to you to take advice with appropriate grains of salt, and do your research!!!!
That is all pretty generalized, and really basic....but maybe I was able to help you a little !
Edit: There are some Engineers that sometimes participate in this forum that can probably give you some very accurate answers to a lot of your questions. I am not an Engineer, I am a DJ/Musician, but hopefully some of my brief answers really can at least get you headed the right way. Some of the really accurate answers an engineer might write would inherently be an entire article in length!]]>PA for dummiesSun, 21 Sep 2014 03:53:10 +0100I need a suggestion - by: bjm362https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20698-i-need-a-suggestion#21884
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20698-i-need-a-suggestion#21884PA for dummiesWed, 30 Jul 2014 02:21:12 +0100Dummy thinkin of building a P A - by: all basshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20571-dummy-thinkin-of-building-a-p-a?start=190#21841
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20571-dummy-thinkin-of-building-a-p-a?start=190#21841PA for dummiesSat, 12 Jul 2014 23:32:10 +0100I need two 15" in the same reflexcab. - by: rastafarlighttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20688-i-need-two-15-in-the-same-reflexcab#21742
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20688-i-need-two-15-in-the-same-reflexcab#21742
I'm looking to expand my portable soundsystem. picture:
goo.gl/18qsKe

I need two 15" PA units, that goes well in the same cabinet.
The width of the cab must not exceed 60cm..

I don't want to make two seperate cabinets, as it is going to fit a "Christiania box bike".. So weight and size is an issue.

Which units will you prefer? And should I put them in series or parallel? I have an Precision Devices P900.5 5 channel class d amplifier, if you need that information

I hope you can help me out!

Rasmus]]>PA for dummiesTue, 10 Jun 2014 08:55:03 +0100Cubo 8" br40 beyma - by: djackhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20684-cubo-8-br40-beyma#21731
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20684-cubo-8-br40-beyma#21731
These Will be used under a paire of double 5mp60n with a ribbon driver.
But As i don t know where to begin i am asking for your help on this one.]]>PA for dummiesFri, 06 Jun 2014 06:13:42 +0100First build 18" G-sub, could use help - by: bgradehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20673-first-build-18-g-sub-could-use-help#21710
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20673-first-build-18-g-sub-could-use-help#21710
x10
or
x12
. Simple reflex combos. I might prefer the 10s myself as I like how they sound on mids better. I would recommend not doing 15x1 combos. I find the 15s are usually sloppy before they reach the comp drivers.]]>PA for dummiesSun, 25 May 2014 23:00:33 +0100PA speaker - by: Konradhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20666-pa-speaker#21679
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20666-pa-speaker#21679PA for dummiesSun, 11 May 2014 15:46:40 +0100single rear horn loaded hornresp inputs - by: bookahhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20658-single-rear-horn-loaded-hornresp-inputs#21618
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20658-single-rear-horn-loaded-hornresp-inputs#21618
I need hornresp inputs for this design (in attachments , 18" version). Maybe anyone can help me with it ?]]>PA for dummiesMon, 21 Apr 2014 11:14:45 +0100Changing Bass Cabs - by: masterp345https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20620-changing-bass-cabs#21425
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20620-changing-bass-cabs#21425
My question is should I continue with the scoops or is there another box type that I could build and reuse the JBL's that would provide more output or lower frequency response than the scoops. If scoops are the way to go for these speakers, what miniscoop design do you think the 2241's would like best?

Thanks for your help]]>PA for dummiesTue, 18 Feb 2014 02:55:05 +0000PIONEER S-DV55SW-K + BASH S300 - by: MAPKOhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20617-pioneer-s-dv55sw-k-bash-s300#21414
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20617-pioneer-s-dv55sw-k-bash-s300#21414
I have PIONEER S-DV55SW-K and BASH S300 both believe to be very trust worthy.
Enjoined many years Pioneer 5.1 system, and now it is time to marry these two, so I can continue enjoin
very good SubWoofer with my new Yamaha 7.1 receiver. Problem is my total inexperience with this.
Pioneer DV55 Sub is 65W / 8 Ohm, and Bash S300 is 300W /4 Ohm.
Figured out that Amp has to be out of the Sub. Original Pioneer amp will have to stay in.
Please help me make this work since this box dimension is the only one that fit the space available.

]]>PA for dummiesThu, 13 Feb 2014 21:24:25 +0000Glue or Screws or Both??? - by: anthonytuttonhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20614-glue-or-screws-or-both#21392
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20614-glue-or-screws-or-both#21392
My screws have also pulled in. I think I'm going to dowel and glue around the outside where I'm going to round over. Then when it's dry, I'll remove the screws and see if it's strong enough. But I'll leave the screws in for all the flat panels.

Laurence wrote: Well this driver is 10", i also too doubt the Xmax will be that big, probably more around 3-3.2mm, and i put the box tuning as 50Hz. The specs cant be THAT off though, im going by the specs on an Eminence Alpha & Beta drivers which are probably pretty close to this one so im not sure why im getting such strange results. I'll take out the driver and see what markings there are.

I would have thought that 50hz was way too low for any Emmi 10" unless you are using an exotic alignment. Would have thought 70 hz would be closer and reduce any port length dramatically. For a 10" driver with limited Xmax I would normally use a 64mm tube port.

wellgood wrote: hello everyone
i finnaly started to build my long time dreamed sound system .
i've completed 2xHOG SCOOP LOADED WITH FANE 18 SB
1x (2 X 15" )ANGLED SHORT-THROW MID LOADED WITH PRECISION DEVICES PD154
this is all i've managed to do so far and my problem is
i've to build a 2x horns mounted tweeter but i dont really know what to choose any ideas??

and in the end how would you am all this?
i sterted building the sound system postponing the matter regarding amps and xover and now its time to focus on that but i'm in serious doubt

thanks
have a loud day!!

Only just seen this. Is it you intention to run the PD154's up to the compression device

Tony]]>PA for dummiesSun, 01 Dec 2013 17:37:34 +0000What cabs to run on top of 2 1850s - by: Sub Audiohttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20534-what-cabs-to-run-on-top-of-2-1850s#20800
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20534-what-cabs-to-run-on-top-of-2-1850s#20800PA for dummiesMon, 11 Nov 2013 13:01:00 +0000Cubo 15, will this driver work? - by: dlylinehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20502-cubo-15-will-this-driver-work#20783
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20502-cubo-15-will-this-driver-work#20783
It was my first speaker build too.
Next i might try the 18" they sell..

Cubo said this:

"That driver sounds as a good budget option. It has limited Xmax so it's fine with a 300 - 500 W amplifier and a 40 Hz high pass."]]>PA for dummiesFri, 01 Nov 2013 01:05:29 +0000New build for new rig. Spherical dome - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20524-new-build-for-new-rig-spherical-dome?start=10#20703
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20524-new-build-for-new-rig-spherical-dome?start=10#20703PA for dummiesMon, 14 Oct 2013 21:47:08 +0100please help me design compact sub - by: Tony Wilkeshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20520-please-help-me-design-compact-sub#20655
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20520-please-help-me-design-compact-sub#20655
Other than that you seem to have got the hang of it but remember my comments on SP.

There is no way with our laws of physics that you can build a driver like this with that sensitivity in the bass region. I wish it could be so, you would never need to use anything any bigger

Tony]]>PA for dummiesSat, 05 Oct 2013 11:45:18 +0100cerwing vega! earthquake....! - by: mtolhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20506-cerwing-vega-earthquake#20613
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20506-cerwing-vega-earthquake#20613
I would like to know the diferencie between these two models cause We r going to buy 4 36pe and maybe 2 l36 je... We r improving our sound system, and i'm searching for deep powerfull bass..
We have two mt-122 for the mid-high and two electro voice dh1+horn for the high...

We r looking for feeds back for these models and cerwing vega woofers in general, like 189je....

Rasmus]]>PA for dummiesMon, 22 Jul 2013 00:59:06 +0100Starting a sound system build - by: bbqbillhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19432-starting-a-sound-system-build#20229
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19432-starting-a-sound-system-build#20229PA for dummiesThu, 27 Jun 2013 22:31:06 +0100need help with bass box - by: speakerzhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20093-need-help-with-bass-box#20099
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20093-need-help-with-bass-box#20099
Cheers.]]>PA for dummiesFri, 31 May 2013 08:27:21 +0100Speakers for Roskilde Festival - by: Mikkel Nielsenhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20045-speakers-for-roskilde-festival#20060
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20045-speakers-for-roskilde-festival#20060
I would recommend a simple vented enclosure for the driver as horn loading would increase the weight and size considerably (i've been to Roskilde festival before when it had rained and lugging heavy equipment home was the WORST!

The problem is the woofer you have chosen could maybe be pushed up to 700 - 800 hz in a reasonable sized box and the horn down to say; 1800 hz (and thats pushing it IMO). Choosing a smaller woofer with a higher top end would make it easier marry the two sensibly but of course you loose some low end at that expense. Or maybe going for a bigger horn to compensate for the woofers lack of high end, Its always a compromise unfortunately.

I'm probably not the best to offer advice as i've just started speaker building but i've found matching the components is half the battle, then its just choosing the x-over, sticking them in a box and listen to how it sounds!

Held og lykke!]]>PA for dummiesSat, 25 May 2013 23:52:38 +0100Daisy chaining subwoofers - by: bgradehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20033-daisy-chaining-subwoofers#20036
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/20033-daisy-chaining-subwoofers#20036PA for dummiesSat, 18 May 2013 23:03:57 +0100New system Design - by: findd3goldhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19583-new-system-design#19959
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19583-new-system-design#19959
_________________________
RS Gold
|
Cheap D3 Items
|
GW2 Gold
]]>PA for dummiesThu, 02 May 2013 09:17:04 +0100Driver upgrade? - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19837-driver-upgrade#19870
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19837-driver-upgrade#19870PA for dummiesTue, 16 Apr 2013 21:21:07 +0100What box should I build? - by: Rectifyhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19743-what-box-should-i-build#19743
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/19743-what-box-should-i-build#19743
I´m know they aren´t the best, and most people talk crap about them.
But I run a sound rental in my hometown, and these were cheap and seem to please my customers that rent them mostly for private parties.
I had to invest more in the lighting too so when time is right I will buy more expensive sound.

But my biggest problem is the quality of the skytec bins, all the different plastics has to be re-tighten all the time and I think the bins feel to small.

I was looking at Cubo18, ok size and weight for transportation.

I´ve got 6x Skytecs right now (and 2 extra spare).
My idea was to build two bins, and move over both Driver and Amp to the new ones.
I´ve built bins before and got a workshop with all the tools needed, and a friend who sells wood (mdf) cheap,
I was going for 19-21mm thickness.

I want to build new bins anyway, in the future I could just change the drivers / amps for better stuff and sell these skytecs complete with original bins. So the new bins will be built seriously from the beginning.

Im hoping to build a system (2-3k) for small venues using a recently obtained H&H VX1200 for bass and a newer amp for full range/mid tops.
I have been looking at some of the plans on the site and would like to build one or two bins with fairly small footprints using 18" drivers. Ideally I would like the bins to be as close to a 30hz cutoff as possible, so the system is useable for bass driven dance music.
I dont know which would be better, a driver like the Eminence Kilomax (which apparently rules out a horn enclosure?), or two drivers housed in two cabs with smaller power ratings, ie PD series 700w or similar. I plan to run the amp bridged, (i understand it be 8ohm in mono) would the amp struggle to power two 700w drivers? (heres the spec for anyone unfamiliar with the amp:
www.hhamplification.co.uk/dbfiles/techpdfs/mosfetvx.pdf
)

The larger Cubo design suitable for a 21" driver looked like it may achieve the desired frequencies with 18" drivers mounted with the magnet in the horn. From my understanding of things it wouldnt be possible to use a single Kilomax in one of these enclosures to deliver the power.

If anyone on the forum can share their knowledge and experience I'd be very grateful.

Thanks in advance.]]>PA for dummiesSun, 26 Aug 2012 17:03:06 +0100Need some help with my project - by: yarohttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18865-need-some-help-with-my-project#18868
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18865-need-some-help-with-my-project#18868
No it does not change so much!

Yes is similar, maybe too much... it seems to be a fusion to the mhb-46 and the hr-118...

Anyway it can be a base for learn how to project somethings and sim it right!

By the way new modifications

The red reinforcement is also a protection for the reflex from the turbolence of the cone.. for what i know the reflex should not be placed directly behind the cone

jsg wrote: Agree with the above comments. The process I usually use goes something like this:

1. Check the drivers are all set to the same polarity (+ve signal=forward cone motion)

2. Rough-estimate GD for each channel (obviously better to measure if the kit is available). Estimating means adding up various numbers:
- path length difference, i.e. shortest path from cone to front of stack, convert to time using 1 foot->1ms
- delay due to speaker upper rolloff, this is the effect of a low-pass filtering effect. Delay is approx order/(4*freq) ms. Order is usually 1 for direct radiator and simple horn, 2 for bandpass horn and simple bandpass, 4 for complex (3-chamber) bandpass. Use the driver's own upper rolloff, not xover freq.
- delay due to resonant peak. Hard to estimate. You could use a simulation for a rough figure. I usually don't cross over near a resonant peak though, in which case this figure can be omitted.
- delay due to xover rolloff. Same formula as speaker rolloff, i.e. order/(4*freq) ms. Use the upper cutoff freq set in xover for that range (skip this part if no upper limit). order here is slope/6dB. So eg 1KHz 24dB/oct gets you order=24/6=4 and delay=4/(4*1000)=1ms

Add all these up. Note that these are all approximate. Really, this stuff only needs to be accurate enough to get you within 1 period of the correct delay.

Now just set the relative levels to taste, set the xover slopes so that both sides are at -6dB at desired xover freq (allowing for any roloff theat the speaker is doing) and set the delay of the upper side to match using the above figures (so upper delay setting = lower delay setting + lower calculated delay - upper calculated delay).

Now flip one side into invert, run a sinewave at the desred xover freq and search for a null by tweaking the upper delay and the freq of the sine wave. Now flip off the invert and you're all good.

I do the estimation part first because, as both Rog and Chris mention, total group dealys can be a lot bigger than jsut the path length component. You can (and I have) found a phase match using the nulling method that was off by at least one entire cycle at the xover freq.

For example in the TY low mid->high mid (800Hz), the path-length difference is less than 1 ms. But one I factor in the TY mid's rolloff order (which is high due to being a bandpass system) and the xover rolloff and I got nearer 3ms difference. So I searched for a match by nulling near 3ms and was happy with the results.

Correction: where I say "Use the driver's own upper rolloff, not xover freq.", I should say, use the upper rollof freq of that component of the assembled speaker, i.e. combination of driver and enclosure. Sometimes the rolloff will be dictated by the driver (eg sealed box), other times by the enclosure (eg bandpass)]]>PA for dummiesMon, 23 Jul 2012 17:54:11 +01001*8" +1"CD build - by: beehttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18748-1-8-1-cd-build#18749
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18748-1-8-1-cd-build#18749PA for dummiesSat, 21 Jul 2012 02:00:53 +0100AMP BRIDGING HELP!! - by: jbinkshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/17482-amp-bridging-help?start=10#18669
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/17482-amp-bridging-help?start=10#18669

jgeissin wrote: Bridging gives you 4X the power of the normal output.

No. It doesn't.
Bridge mode allows you to RECONFIGURE YOUR LOAD to better match the amplifier's specifications. It's not black magic. The amp can deliver the exact same amount of power in either mode.
Example: You have two 4 ohm loads 1000w each and an amp that can deliver 2x 1000w at 4 ohm in stereo or 1x 2000w at 8 ohm in bridge mono.
You could connect the drivers, one per channel and get 1000w each, 2000w total.
You could connect the drivers (in series) in bridge mode and get 1000w each, 2000w total.

The only difference is that in bridge you can use less cable! (and double power into double impedance = same cable loss)

Bridge mode is most popular for driving single large drivers using a small amp that's not powerful enough to handle one per channel. Example: Cheap 2x 600w (4 ohms) amp and a 1000w 8 ohm driver. You would have no hope driving that in stereo mode, but put the amp in bridge and it can supply it's full rated power at 4 ohms per channel = 1200w - plenty for the 1000w 8 ohm driver!

jgeissin wrote: I would not drive a load lower than 2 ohms, you are risking an amp then!

Again, no.
"I would not drive a load lower than THE LOWEST RATED IMPEDANCE PER CHANNEL OF THAT AMP".
Some amps can drive no lower than 4 ohms. Some no lower than 2 ohms. Some no lower than 1 ohms. etc. etc.

Think of amp configurations (stereo and bridge) as simply ways to arrange two separate power suppliers for your speakers.
If it makes it easier, think of the amp channels as batteries. You can use one battery to light a small lamp, or you can combine both of the batteries to get more power to drive a bigger lamp.

Hope this is of some use to someone!
John]]>PA for dummiesSun, 01 Jul 2012 13:27:18 +0100OLD SPEAKER PROJECT - by: NorfolkDadhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18269-old-speaker-project#18482
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/18269-old-speaker-project#18482
As a PA Dummie I am still trying to get my head around some of the t/s parameters but I am getting there.

the Eminence drivers I have the params for - came in a sealed cabinet...

am I right in thinking that an EBP greater than 100 is better suited to a vented box of some kind?

the cabs are 4.5 cu ft (127 litres) capacity and I wonder about simply making them vented by putting in a port depending on the Fs of the speaker..

I guess I don't really just want someone to GIVE me the answers - however a nudge in the general direction would be brill - if possible

Either way I am having a bit of fun getting my brain working and learning as I go ---

Rog Mogale wrote: 2nd thing would be if the sound source were cylindrical or spherical.

3rd would be how large the radiation area of the sound source was.

So basically, if it’s louder to start with it will be louder at distance. If it’s a cylindrical radiation pattern then it would appear louder at a given distance over a spherical sound source, i.e. line array vs point source. And larger radiating areas are louder at a given distance because they behave more like cylindrical sources the larger they get.

Rog.

Dear Rog,

I would like to learn more about this and have some scientific sources as Meyer sound labs seems to be thinking quite differently about this.
meyersound.com/support/papers/line_array_theory.htm
]]>PA for dummiesMon, 28 May 2012 22:41:49 +0100Rebuild, Sell or burn? - by: thepersonunknownhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/16071-rebuild-sell-or-burn?start=10#18192
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/16071-rebuild-sell-or-burn?start=10#18192
can obvioulsy have a 2 inch fitted as well.....

to be honest i hate 2 inches running low, but slot loading the 15s could even out the dispersion (so im told, im yet to give this a real try myself... makes sense though) thanks djk if you float round these parts.

thepersonunknown wrote: i agree with ben. y dont you try play with hornresp a bit.
dave

Does he really need to?

With so many used Turbosound/ASS kick cabs floating around, and the current price of ply ?

nickyburnell wrote: Good advice, ditch the kicks and use the horns upto the MT cabs.

184's die, they cant even survive in a USB when it is used down to 45, so be careful.
184 to 1850/51 upgrade path will be a big ££ jump though.

How do you know your current horn cabs are not as good as 186? They might be a CV design for instance?

Pics?

The DnB ( & Jungle) I used to listen to, needed 40hz subs. 186/1850 horns are not designed to do that, maybe an expensive
lesson in reconing, trying to get that out of them.

cant argue with that lev, but i think its a realy good way of actualy getting some idea of whats going on there. als sometime ur after something thats just a little out of the ordinary]]>PA for dummiesMon, 21 May 2012 12:51:29 +0100diy active cabs - by: Andy Koshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/13049-diy-active-cabs#18132
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/13049-diy-active-cabs#18132
One another occasion I had a fuse blow in the active speaker. SO I lost one cab out of several for a few minutes whilst the fuse was changed, the rest carried on working. If you had it all running off one/two amps, and your amp goes down, it's potentially time to pack up and go home if you cant get it fixed.

For mobile DJs, I strongly recommend active boxes, and something reputable. Good active speakers will have built in EQ, limiters, etc - which makes them plug and play, takes the worry out of configuring sound systems , and setting up EQ and limiters separately.]]>PA for dummiesFri, 18 May 2012 01:13:56 +0100Running subs in 4 Ohm - by: jbinkshttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/17877-running-subs-in-4-ohm#17886
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/17877-running-subs-in-4-ohm#17886
In the future you can always look to upgrade the amp to something more powerful in order to get some headroom (aim for at least 1.5 times the speakers combined RMS power handling).]]>PA for dummiesMon, 07 May 2012 21:13:23 +0100Good horn Literature, recommendations - by: endrekhttps://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/11296-good-horn-literature-recommendations#17685
https://freespeakerplans.com/kunena/41-pa-for-dummies/11296-good-horn-literature-recommendations#17685
I'm also starting with horn theory and more... Because my goal is to be able to design one and build it.

http://www.quarter-wave.com/Horns
I found this page which I'm reading now, if you want to share info / books / etc. send me an email or private message. And maybe if you want we can try to work together in gathering new info and achieve our goals!

I used to use single 18" reflex boxes but got rid of them in favour of the Void Basys systems which I am now a big fan off. They're small, light (neo drivers) and compact. Perfect for stairs, boats, etc. And I can fit a simple (but popular) system in the car complete with desk, outboard and a monitor!

You might want to try building a single 15" reflex box and then doing side-by-side comparisons with an 18" to see if you can live with the lesser sub output.