Description

The Witch is the major formation just past the Sorcerer. The amphitheater formed by these two rocks holds the highest concentration of Needles' classics. Most climbs are on the west face -- this can be approached by a small access point near the top of the formation.

Descent involves a single rope rap from anchors to the north and a bit of easy downclimbing.

Getting There

Hike the trail past the Sorcerer. Decend through a notch to the South very near the West face of the Witch.

Terrorvision. I cannot think of a better name for this route - not for the faint of heart! The position of the belay alone will make your palms sweat! Approach via the top of the huge pillar/buttress on the lower West face of the Witch (via Phosphorescent Flow?). An easy 5th-class traverse right will take you around to the south flank of the Witch. Terrorvision climbs the SE arete of the feature with amazing views of the lower reaches of the Warlock and the valley below... You feel alone u...[more]Browse More Classics in CA

On October 7, 2007, Michael Reardon made the world's most difficult onsight free solo first ascent by climbing a line on The Witch. With no roped pre-inspection, he climbed an 800 foot line that he named Shikata Ga Nai (Japanese for "there is no other way"). The climb consisted of 120 feet of 5.10 to a seven move V6 on a bald arete, followed by 100 feet of perfect 5.10. Then 30 feet of 5.11+ pure arete laybacking to opposition moves. The first 300 feet of the climb are on a sharp arete and had never been set foot on by a climber. The next 500 feet are 5.11a and was likely climbed before. There were no bolts or anchors on the first 300 feet, and from the magazine article in Climbing, perhaps none on the final 500 feet. There was also no opportunities for natural protection.

Even considering that Reardon had free soloed 1,000 routes in Joshua Tree up to 5.13a in a 30 day period, along with onsight soloing Romantic Warrior (5.12b) at the Needles, this climb is pure insanity. On virgin terrain, with no knowledge of how difficult the moves may be or how solid the holds are, I consider this ascent to be one of the most impressive of all time. Photographer Mike Niles shot Reardon climbing the upper part of the arete on a later date and confirmed Reardon's feat.