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I was trying some stuff tonight.
When I put power on the the switchbox it would turn the camera lines on and then go off after a few seconds.
I put the car in reverse gear from outside.
Turns out that the shift lever was in first not reverse.
So the BMW one turns on for a few seconds when powered.
Thought of your problem if they powered the unit with reverse line instead of a line hot in accy.

Very interesting..
If I understand correctly, you would get the camera signal cutting in then out when the car ws in 1st gear.

The only thing is that I watched them work on the car and they could leave it in gear (assumed at the time it was reverse) and the screen would continue to fliker and on occasion would should the camera output for a second.

Ron, Any updates, here. Just anxious at this point I guess. I want to see what the final product will look like.

I met with the audio place Thursday. He didn't have any in stock that I was looking for.
He gave me pricing. I still haven't emailed Paul Kim at BOYO. Was going to do it today but got involved with a bunch of other stuff. Decided to go there tomorrow and order one for a test assuming the guy is there. If it works, I will probably buy the other three. If it doesn't, I'll eat it.

I met with the audio place Thursday. He didn't have any in stock that I was looking for.
He gave me pricing. I still haven't emailed Paul Kim at BOYO. Was going to do it today but got involved with a bunch of other stuff. Decided to go there tomorrow and order one for a test assuming the guy is there. If it works, I will probably buy the other three. If it doesn't, I'll eat it.

I see. I think I speak for everyone when I say "eagerly awaiting this mod". My CA tells me, if anyone is gonna get it done it will be Ron.

Tried the front camera white wire to power which turns it on a week ago and it didn't work.
Screen didn't go black and no voltage on the camera lines.
This week I hard wired accy. line power to connector X322 pin 3.
Tonight I checked wiring which was OK.
Put white wire pin 7 to power and the screen went out.
Checked the power going to the camera lines and it was 6V just like the rear.
The print showing 12V is a mistake. Now it makes sense since both front and rear are 6V.
Paul Kim at BOYO said that their cameras will work at 6V. The specs. say 8V minimum.
We'll see.
When I released the power from pin 7 the screen didn't go back on.
Didn't have a camera or the speed line connected etc.
Have to look into that.
I put the shift lever in reverse and then out and the screen went on after the normal few seconds.
Will have to wait and see how it works with a camera hooked up.
Getting closer to the rush or not rush.

Ordered a BOYO VTB100 camera Saturday for test.
Retail is $189.99. Should have it in a week.
If it works and I like it, I will buy some more.
Would like to get all four of them to see how they work and mount.

Picked up the test camera today.
He had a hand hold item with a screen to test it which worked well.

Plugged it into the BMW control module and no cigar. Car battery dead.
Put the charger on and screen went black but no pic.
Tried a power supply to the camera and it comes on around 8>9 volts like the spec. says.
Will power it with the 12v turn on power instead of the relay set up.

The camera is temporary taped on to the lower grille. Front of the -tires is about four feet back from the car.
Not sure where it will end up. May have it come through the plate center dot like EOD did. This keeps the unit behind the bumper.
Will try some other cameras, keep what I like and install them.
For now, I'm into it for $497 counting the BMW kit, camera and a lot of research and time.

There isn't much to post. I have already posted pictures before of the mounted camera on the car, and the shop installed the new NavANDTV2GO module for me so unfortunately because this was the third attempt at install (2 prior episodes with the GNET unit), I didn't stick around to take pictures of the install.

I just wanted to post to let you guys know that the NAVANDTV2GO unit will work with the BOYO camera on this car.

There isn't much to post. I have already posted pictures before of the mounted camera on the car, and the shop installed the new NavANDTV2GO module for me so unfortunately because this was the third attempt at install (2 prior episodes with the GNET unit), I didn't stick around to take pictures of the install.

I just wanted to post to let you guys know that the NAVANDTV2GO unit will work with the BOYO camera on this car.

I have to be honest, they were not the easiest company to contact sometimes but they were fair with their dealings with me. They did issue a refund minus shipping.

BTW - Ron, I just saw the jack adapter you sent and it is beautiful! I have no idea how you made it but I feel bad using the thing! Thanks again.

Good that you got your money back.
Do you have a link for what you purchased?

The adapter looks like something easy to do, but it isn't.
My CNC guy did the last batch at $21 each for 20 count.
He said he won't be doing that again at that price.
My regular machinist wouldn't touch it.

It's official. The boyo camera with the TVANDNAV2GO module work perfectly! Finally installed today. Plug and play. The license plate mounted camera is also quite clean looking. Sorry no pictures.

To recap, in my experience the GNET module does NOT work on our cars, despite what they tell you.

Picked up another BOYO camera that I ordered. VTK100 for reverse.
Will need a VTK100N for the front.
Will probably purchase their IR one for looking around the car.

Installed it in the grille below the license plate.
Very subtle. Also shows the grille surround for a reference.
Not easy to steal.
Going to try running the cable through the trunk floor so not to remove the bumper cover.

Good that you got your money back.
Do you have a link for what you purchased?

The adapter looks like something easy to do, but it isn't.
My CNC guy did the last batch at $21 each for 20 count.
He said he won't be doing that again at that price.
My regular machinist wouldn't touch it.

I had to replace my camera because the lense broke for some reason. There has been huge swings in temperature here -25 C to +10C in one day, so maybe this is why?
The broken lense did not affect the picture at all but I decided to replace it under warranty anyways.

I had to replace my camera because the lense broke for some reason. There has been huge swings in temperature here -25 C to +10C in one day, so maybe this is why?
The broken lense did not affect the picture at all but I decided to replace it under warranty anyways.

Here are some pictures I took when I swapped the camera.

That worked.
I went through the grommet in the floor NE of yours.
It goes to the alarm and evaporater area which comes out just behind the camera in the grille.
Gave me something to tie to away from the exhaust.

That worked.
I went through the grommet in the floor NE of yours.
It goes to the alarm and evaporater area which comes out just behind the camera in the grille.
Gave me something to tie to away from the exhaust.

I may end up changing the location as well. I did notice that the wire passes above the muffler and has about 5 inches of clearance but this still may get too hot.

Rear wiring on demand is under the drivers side under dash area.
Front wiring is in the engine area where it goes into the passenger side under dash area.
Most of the car is back together.
Dash will be undone for awhile. Will be doing some -Firestone electrical stuff along with some of mine.
Tonight, I made up the aux-in panel for the front and rear camera switches on demand. Also the oil and water temperature switch.

The rear camera installed in the rear grille works fine. Backing up you can see the parking lines on both sides.
When the bottom part of the grille meets the bottom of the curb the car is one foot away from it.

On the front camera, when the bottom part of the grille meets the bottom of the curb the car is one foot away from it just like the rear.

Tonight, I made up the aux-in panel for the front and rear camera switches on demand. Also the oil and water temperature switch.

Are you using the two-position switch to flip between the sensors reporting to a single gauge? I couldn't find any posts about this in a search. If that's the case, that's a very elegant solution to needing more physical gauges.

Are you using the two-position switch to flip between the sensors reporting to a single gauge? I couldn't find any posts about this in a search.

Yes.
I use 14 gauge wire from the sensors through out. I had a rotary switch on the Z3.
Since I just wanted two, I want with the toggle switch. Easier to wire for the wire size.
I use the 250 degree water temperature gauge with two 250 degree sensors.

One in the block drain and the other in the sump plate that Daniel and Randy came up with.

The gauge between 180 and 220 are 10 degree increments. Easier to read the oil temperature.
The stock oil temperature cluster gauge is buffered just like the water gauge in your car.