What a drag, I hope everything goes as planned and you get to drive it. Thanks again for the EWD that made all the difference in the world. I also had to do the starter relay mod I just happened to run into that little problem at the same time as I was working out all the harness splicing and it made me think I had messed it up. Now I am going to wire in a relay and extra fuel pump resistor I have so my TTSupra pump isn't going full speed all the time, should extend its life considerably. Did you do this to yours? I still have a bunch of stuff to wrap up (the harness being most literal of them) but now that it runs I am a lot more motivated. And of-course its going to start snowing here like tomorrow... and I have no garage... sigh I really want to drive this thing this winter. I may just have to tow it over to my fathers house and borrow his garage for a few hours at a time. Oh yeah my really nice neighbor Joel helped me out welding that sway bar mount mod and it turned out awesome, I put my 185 lowering springs on the car and it dropped the back down so far it was like an inch lower than the fronts. I bought some KYB AGX shocks for the rear and since we had to weld the top on from some fronts anyways we went ahead and added an inch under the sway bar mounts and it brought the height up perfectly, and I bought some adjustable mr2 end links used for super cheap that fit perfect! I'll hafta post up a pic on the post your car thread soon, it looks great with the scion rims. So its all adjustable shocks now at just the height I would have wanted without buying coils.

CTechBlueDragon wrote:What a drag, I hope everything goes as planned and you get to drive it. Thanks again for the EWD that made all the difference in the world. I also had to do the starter relay mod I just happened to run into that little problem at the same time as I was working out all the harness splicing and it made me think I had messed it up. Now I am going to wire in a relay and extra fuel pump resistor I have so my TTSupra pump isn't going full speed all the time, should extend its life considerably. Did you do this to yours? I still have a bunch of stuff to wrap up (the harness being most literal of them) but now that it runs I am a lot more motivated. And of-course its going to start snowing here like tomorrow... and I have no garage... sigh I really want to drive this thing this winter. I may just have to tow it over to my fathers house and borrow his garage for a few hours at a time. Oh yeah my really nice neighbor Joel helped me out welding that sway bar mount mod and it turned out awesome, I put my 185 lowering springs on the car and it dropped the back down so far it was like an inch lower than the fronts. I bought some KYB AGX shocks for the rear and since we had to weld the top on from some fronts anyways we went ahead and added an inch under the sway bar mounts and it brought the height up perfectly, and I bought some adjustable mr2 end links used for super cheap that fit perfect! I'll hafta post up a pic on the post your car thread soon, it looks great with the scion rims. So its all adjustable shocks now at just the height I would have wanted without buying coils.

I have a TT Supra pump on my 3s-gte Alltrac Camry and I kept the stock fuel pump resistor setup. On this Alltrac (or, rather, the BEAMs motor) there is not extra fuel pump resistor, so I am still using the stock pump. 200 N/A HP isn't that much fuel to flow.

Its running great at this point, and I have a nice, shiny 2016 registration sticker on the back. The guy at AAA even had to check for an emission sticker under the hood... it is totally faded and obviously doesn't match the motor, but that didn't matter. I also fixed the tail lights, so I have essentially no chance of getting pulled over at this point - unless I'm speeding.

I filled it up with gas for the first time last night. I've only driven it around 120 miles total since I bought the car. That should go up considerably now. I suddenly want to fix the speaker and stereo situation so it is a better daily driver. A tape adapter and poorly installed aftermarket speakers just don't cut it.

Awesome!! I did LED tails they are super bright, which is great because I plan to VHT nightshade them! I think I am going to go radio-less in mine. What did you work out for the tachometer problem in yours? I have an adapter box but I am not sure if it works right I never had good luck with it in when it was in the 93GT. It seemed to work at first then got worse and worse, so I though the capacitors went out so I replaced those to no avail... I bought an old sunpro tac at a yard sale for 3 bucks if all else fails. But I want to keep the stock appearance.I can't remember do either of your cars have the 205 lsd in the back? If so can you tell the difference much?

I don't have my notes on my, but if I remember correctly, I parallelled a 30k resistor with the 30k resistor that was already part of the input to the tach driver and it worked perfectly. I had a nice selection of parts and a signal generator on the bench to test. It works down to around 9V signals now, which is just fine.

Awesome thanks for the info. I will go to radio shack and try to match up the colors and see what I can find. I think they are all coded that way right?Also I was wondering how do you figure out how much more oil you need after you hook up the filter relocation? Will it make it read high on the dip stick or does it not all drain back?

CTechBlueDragon wrote:Awesome thanks for the info. I will go to radio shack and try to match up the colors and see what I can find. I think they are all coded that way right?Also I was wondering how do you figure out how much more oil you need after you hook up the filter relocation? Will it make it read high on the dip stick or does it not all drain back?

The resistors are color coded. If you are going to get them at Radio Shack (do they still exist?), just get one close to 30k ohm - a little high or a little low will be fine for that part of the circuit. Or you can replace that resistor (15k), but it was a bit more difficult to do it that way (in my opinion...).

As for the oil filter relocation - the oil stays up in the filter and hoses pretty well. Just fill the normal amount (4.5 quarts?), run it to check for leaks, then check the level and add the extra necessary. That's how you are supposed to do it without a relocation kit anyway, and its worked for me with the relocation kit.

In other news, I took the BEAMS up to the mountains - no overheating problems up the mountain, starts up great cold (around freezing), and the trans shifts just fine cold too. All-in-all, a good shake-down run. My wife was a bit worried about the whole thing though. Ha!

Well I wish I had a good story about my first drive but I am a complete retard... I decided to take a short drive without doing the oil filter relocation and the filter rubbed through on the mount and I lost oil and didn't notice because I was looking at the temp gauge of all things. I saw some smoke but I thought it was the turbo, and it went away immediately. That was because it go so soaked in oil it stopped smoking. The entire engine bay and engine are coated in oil and I didn't see the idiot light until I had driven a couple miles without any oil. I am too stupid to own this car. This is worse then the guys I got the engine from that melted a piston because the wastegate wasn't hooked up. I feel like selling everything now. Just spent the last of my money on the damn reg and tags and now its gonna sit the rest of the winter atleast. I cannot believe I did this.

CTechBlueDragon wrote:Well I wish I had a good story about my first drive but I am a complete retard... I decided to take a short drive without doing the oil filter relocation and the filter rubbed through on the mount and I lost oil and didn't notice because I was looking at the temp gauge of all things. I saw some smoke but I thought it was the turbo, and it went away immediately. That was because it go so soaked in oil it stopped smoking. The entire engine bay and engine are coated in oil and I didn't see the idiot light until I had driven a couple miles without any oil. I am too stupid to own this car. This is worse then the guys I got the engine from that melted a piston because the wastegate wasn't hooked up. I feel like selling everything now. Just spent the last of my money on the damn reg and tags and now its gonna sit the rest of the winter atleast. I cannot believe I did this.

I'm not even sure how you got a filter on there... I only have 3/8" or so of clearance, even with a right-angle oil-filter take-off. You'll get it back together, and now you've learned your "always leave clearance for things" lesson. (or in my case, really stiff motor mounts!)

Oh, watch for swaybar to oil pan clearance on the gen3+ motors... The alloy pan is wider can can/does interfere with the swaybar.

Replaced the 4 outer bushing/bearings on the rear lateral links. It all went fairly well:

Until re-assembly of the second side... I let one of the arms put too much pressure on the CV boot and ripped it. Ugh. So, time to rebuilt at least one axle back there. Ordered the last outer boot at RockAuto available. And two of the last 6 inner boots.

I hope I got the bands tight enough...

The engine also starting making some noise at idle. Didn't seem like bearings, too 'fast' and not 'deep' enough. I used the vacuum line trick to try to isolate the noise and the engine seems to sound great. From underneath though, it really sounds like it is coming from the PS pump. It turns out the noise from the engine at idle was a stupid mistake... The crank pulley bolt wasn't fully tight (I never put the impact gun on it after the timing belt job...). Fixed, and working great!

I also was able to get the center diff lock system working. Turns out the BEAMS motor 'vacuum' reference for the FPR is actually atmospheric pressure. Not vacuum on the actuator = no actuation! It was/is a bit sticky in its operation, but that's to be expected. A little time and turning back and forth gets it locked or unlocked. I've never driven with a locked center - wow, what a funny feeling. Not recommended for the street!

Tail lights are sealed up (3/4 had leaks)... And I also found and repaired a leaky trunk lip - in the normal spot up near the hinges where there is a section of seam sealer. Here it is after a bit of grinding, before more grinding/cleaning and rust converting/sealing:

With all that said, the car is ready for sale. Too many projects, too little time. Any interested parties PM me! I'll be putting up an official 'for sale' post when its all cleaned up and some nice pictures have been taken.

-Charlie

Last edited by phattyduck on Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.