Recommended Posts

Thanks. Seems more expensive than the part I posted. I'll see if I can source just the lock control cable rather than the control cable and door latch otherwise it makes sense for me to buy the cable and latch for £20 rather than £30 for just a new cable.

Thanks. Seems more expensive than the part I posted. I'll see if I can source just the lock control cable rather than the control cable and door latch otherwise it makes sense for me to buy the cable and latch for £20 rather than £30 for just a new cable.

Yeah, the link was more to show it was separate and the part number really, I agree getting a used one will be much cheaper, plenty of Mk6s in scrap yards as well.

Share on other sites

That’s the whole assembly mate...... sounds like you just need the little clip on the end, check your broken one and see if it’s possible to separate it from the latch wire, if you can save yourself £19.95 and get one for a couple of quid from the scrappies

That’s the whole assembly mate...... sounds like you just need the little clip on the end, check your broken one and see if it’s possible to separate it from the latch wire, if you can save yourself £19.95 and get one for a couple of quid from the scrappies

I can definitely separate the broken one from the latch wire. I've contacted the breakers yard where I had my new regulator and inner door card from. Hopefully the guy can help. He knows the part and has asked for a photo.

Best of luck. Let me know if you need any advice. I'll need to take the door card off again as it isn't sitting flush and there appears to be something pushing against the glass - I think it's a wire from the door loom pushing the back of the door locking mechanism and part of it is touching the glass.

Would be grateful for advice from members if my window seems slow to go back up.

Share on other sites

I stripped the door back down today and found the problem. The window was mostly between the rubbers but had pinched part of the rubbers towards the bottom, so it wasn't aligned between the rubbers perfectly. All back together now and working perfectly! So glad it's all done. I'll strip the driver's side down soon - I wasn't happy with the quality of the work by a local garage; the mechanic obviously didn't align the door card up and thus snapped most of the clips. And whenever I close the door with the window down, there's a loud rattle (as if the regulator is rattling). I might as well strip it back down and see what's going on.

If anyone gets stuck with the same job, just give me a shout.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

I noticed a problem with the door locking earlier. When I lock the car, the passenger door lock makes a rapid clicking noise and the interior handle doesn't move in. Although the car locks fine and the door opens fine. The lock didn't make a rapid clicking noise when the latch cable wasn't connected to the door handle, i.e. when the outer door card had been removed. Any ideas?

I noticed a problem with the door locking earlier. When I lock the car, the passenger door lock makes a rapid clicking noise and the interior handle doesn't move in. Although the car locks fine and the door opens fine. The lock didn't make a rapid clicking noise when the latch cable wasn't connected to the door handle, i.e. when the outer door card had been removed. Any ideas?

Are you talking about it making several clicking noises rapidly when you press the lock button? My fiesta has done the same thing since I've bought it and haven't had a problem with it. Sometimes it just makes a single click sound.

I also did the regulator today. You can see what went wrong with the other one. Someone also tried putting grease on it

When I disconnected the latch cable from the door handle and opened/locked the doors, the lock seemed to work fine and without making that strange noise. But when I held the latch cable and clip on its side to simulate it being attached to the door handle, the lock made that strange noise when I locked the door. Here's a video clip to demonstrate what I mean: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lTYjkz_4h-kI-rf-s-pxrMgVyIuJVtNR

After twisting the cable clockwise and anti-clockwise several times to see if tension in the cable was causing the problem, I began to think the lock was knackered. But then after several tries and at the last moment, it seemed to work fine with the door handle attached - weird. But before the lock started working fine again, I started to unscrew the screws on the inside edge of the door to get the locking mechanism out, but one of the screws wouldn't budge (even with WD40) and I've stripped the thread. I might buy a new screw on eBay but I've no idea how to get the old one out! And in a bit of panic trying to strip the door down, I snapped one of the hooking lugs on the back of the inner door card - not sure if this would matter because the door card still attaches fine but is it worth buying another one for the sake of a few pounds?

That's the exact same rapid clicking I get. Sometimes I just clicks twice.

Mine's never done it, so I began to worry when it started to happen after I put the outer door card back on. Can't believe I snapped one of the lug hooks on the back of the inner door card and rounded off a screw for the door lock screw Question is - how on earth do I get the damn thing out now? I'd like to replace it if I can.

Edit: Panic over. The screw looked totally rounded-off but a larger Torx bit managed to fit. I found a magnetic bit holder for my Dewalt screwdriver, so just inserted the Torx head and went at it. It came off after a bit of force, so it was well and truly stuck! Phew. Has anyone got a spare screw I could buy?