If outside the U.S.A., please read this posting for instructions and limitations on ordering. Shipping now available from the website for Canada, Australia & New Zealand

Shipping
I try my very best to ship out all orders the same or next business day after receiving payment. I wake early in the morning so that I can send out any orders that were placed overnight. If for any reason your order will be delayed, I will promptly notify you and give you some options relating to the order. Shipping is automatically calculated based on the weight of the order. Minimum amount is $2.04, maximum is generally $9.99 for envelope shipping.

Priority Mail box shipping is also available; many of the rates will appear to be high, this is because the site is set to calculate the “worse case” scenario. If the actual shipping cost is significantly less than what you paid, you will receive a partial shipping refund for the difference in cost.

ReturnsBatteries can only be returned within 15 days after arrival only if defective. If defective, I will reimburse for return shipping. Anything else can be returned within 30 days after arrival whether defective or for any other reason as far as items are still in “like new” condition. If defective, I will reimburse for return shipping; for any other reason buyer pays for return shipping.

Question - What brand are the protection circuits/wrappers? Are there any reviews of the batteries you're offering?

Obviously there are a lot of reviews on the batteries inside the wrappers, but what are the details of the protections circuit, maximum discharge they will permit before tripping? Can they be reset by the more common chargers out there? Overcharge protection, etc,.

I figured I’d get asked that question.
The cells reportedly use Seiko protection circuits that cut off at approximately 3.0 to 4.2 volts. I cannot confirm this at this moment because I don’t have any other quality protected cells (KP) to compare with. I am busy tonight, but I will do an overcharge/discharge test as soon as possible.

Sorry I don’t have more answers for ya, I will try and find out more and let you know soon.

Hey guys, I’ll have to admit that I haven’t done my homework on shipping these things internationally. I didn’t think there would be much demand for it; I’ll take a look and see what the most economical and reliable way to ship these internationally is. Any insights would be appreciated.

Hey guys, looks like I can’t ship to Canada using USPS unless they are shipped inside of a device. I will be working on a solution to that problem. Looks like you can ship I am also looking into UPS, Fedex, etc. but it sounds like they have been charging too much for customs services.

comfychair, thanks for the feedback. I will update the OP and pricing schedule to reflect the overall price/cell breakdown.

Oh come on Comfy, you’re freakin brilliant, what’s a little math? Even I can keep a running total in my head as I go down that list. (Ok, in all fairness, I chose the groups with even numbers, 20+20=40)

It’s funny. USPS will deliver cells within the US, but not to Canada, even though we don’t have any laws against them and Canada post has no bans. Packets go to border hubs like JFK and Chicago, and then are trucked accross the border so no planes are involved. After 911 both post offices discovered that was cheaper and faster to send mail by truck than it was by air.

You're talking government bureaucrats, nothing is supposed to make sense. They figured out long ago the best, most devious ways to waste taxpayer dollars.

The biggest problem with the government is the lack of transparency.

This means problems only surface when they are simply too big to hide, and smaller problems are left to fester. Further it leads to a complete lack of accountability.

You can rest assured that the money is not wasted. It is safely deposited in bank accounts. Whether it actually ever re-enters the economy (in so far as 99% of the population is concerned) is another question altogether.

What’s the best way to ensure ground between the copper pill and ground ring on the driver? I’ve not had much luck soldering between the large copper pill and that narrow brass trace on the driver. Is there an easy way to do that to ensure a good solid ground? I’m actually thinking about getting a drill bit and tap to put a screw into that wide lip, use a piece of brass to clamp the driver down with it. Would that work?

I don’t have as much experience as many of you here, but I’ve had good luck using 60/40 vs. 63/37 solder and turning the temperature down a bit on my iron after adhering the initial solder to the star and outer ring. It seems like the 60/40 is easier to form bridges with; I’m assuming that it’s because of the increased plasticity range vs. 63/37 eutectic but you know what they say about assumptions!

This was done with 60/40 solder (don’t mind the extra flux):
The joint may not be ideal (perhaps a bit cold) but it seems to be stuck on there well and it’s not a high current joint anyways.

What’s the best way to ensure ground between the copper pill and ground ring on the driver? I’ve not had much luck soldering between the large copper pill and that narrow brass trace on the driver. Is there an easy way to do that to ensure a good solid ground? I’m actually thinking about getting a drill bit and tap to put a screw into that wide lip, use a piece of brass to clamp the driver down with it. Would that work?

I just realized that I misread your question when I posted earlier. I have also used a little bit of solder wick to fill that gap when needed, although usually if it’s just a hairline gap 60/40 and a little work usually get it done for me. In my very limited experience I’ve found that 63/37 is much harder to bridge gaps with.