Taper Jig

I had been wanting to make a tapering jig for a while and recently have the project that needs it. I looked around the internet for a couple of ideas and combined 2 ideas into this tapering monster. It’s probably too long, but I like that the length means that it stays on the table unsupported before the cut starts for many cutting needs. Also, the big handle gets in the way of me trying to cut my hands off, so that helps. It works great! I should have done this some time ago.

Addendum -

I added 3 more pictures showing how it really works. In the last picture, I’m pointing at the end of the handle, which would run up against the saw, so you can see how the piece is held down for a taper cut. Also, a leftover piece of purple heart serves as a movable stop block. All the holes are for the carriage bolts to hold down the piece. I do need a piece of about equal size behind the bolt to hold the pieces down. This jig should be able to allow me to taper some panels if needed. I hope this clears up any confusion. Please let me know if you foresee any problems with this, or some other ways I could improve it.

Here’s a link to where I started. Most of my jig comes from this video, I just liked putting a big handle on the back of it.

Well, of course the longer the piece, then the more likely it’ll be that it’ll tip. I made mine longer so I could accomadate many pieces without it tipping, but whenever I put longer pieces on it, it does tip.

I guess a temporary fix is a roller stand, but long range, I need a infeed and outfeed extenssion. I am still going to build a new one longer like yours. I put t-tracks and hold downs on mine which I think I will do again. I then have a straight edge with toggle clamps so if I do one piece, I can just use the hold downs, but if I want repeatable pieces, I can use the straight edge as a template. I have seen others make the straight edge movable and put hold down claps on a ttrack on the straight edge.

Thanks for the addition of more photos and more explanation,that really clears things up. I think you adding the back handle and adjustment block is a great improvement over the FWW sled . Very good job. The only thing I would change is to use metal T slots as hold downs instead of carriage bolts.

I would add the T slots later if I find myself needing to taper things regularly. Right now, it’s an awesome every now and then tool. So I don’t mind the extra set up time and not paying for T slots. I know I could’ve done the “door hinge and 2 2X4’s” thing to really save time and money, but I wanted to start it right and finish later if needed.

Thanks RickRinger. So far, that jig is awesome. The other guys are right though. This evening I used the jig about 3 times, and I could definitely see that not having T-tracks makes switching out a pain. I probably won’t put in T-tracks anytime soon, but if I find myself tapering all the time, I certainly will. I guess I should post picks on my shop layout. It’s not that organized, but I like it.