Overview

- Punta di Ceresole - 3.777 m -

Elegant and conspicuous, this important peak by the many turrets is thirteenth highest in the Gran Paradiso Group. It is surrounded by Colle della Luna (3.542m) and Testa della Tribolazione (3.642m) on the East side, and by Colle Chamonin (3.698m) and the powerful and sharp Cresta Gastaldi (3.894m) on the West side. The steep Southern aspect of Punta di Ceresole rises above the Noaschetta Glacier, while the North side is almost entirely covered by the huge Tribolazione Glacier. The peak is easily seen from as far as Cogne (1.534m) and from the Village of Gimillan (1.787m).

Getting There

From Switzerland: through the Grand Saint Bernard Tunnel or the namesake Pass.

Drive to Aosta, then follow the direction for Courmayeur on SS.26. Just after Sarre, turn to the left, in the direction of Valle di Cogne.

From France: through Mont Blanc Tunnel or Petit St. Bernard Pass. It isn't necessary to take Motorway A5: you can drive on SS.26, in the direction of Aosta. Before arriving at the Village of Sarre, turn right following the sign for Valle di Cogne.
After Aymavilles, the Regional Road n° 47 crosses the Villages of Vieyes, Epinel and Cretaz and after about 25 Km arrives at Cogne (1.534m).

BY PLANE:

Aeroporto Internazionale "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).

Route

First day: From Cogne (1.534m) by bus or car to Valnontey (1.666m). Cars can be parked in the large square near the center of the village. Start the ascent of the Valnontey Valley on its orographic right side (climber's left). Go past the pleasant Pastures of Valmiana (1.728m) and reach the Erfaulet Bridge (1.830m); cross it and continue along the trail to a fork (2040m, 1h'15/1h'30), where you take the left branch. Follow the right bank of the torrent and head for the moraine called "Barma des Bouquetins"; (2.698m). Climb the morain's ridge in its entirety reaching a hump. Follow this relief to a large snowfield, at the end of which you can discern a ledge going left. Climb on a faint, exposed trail for the entire length of the ledge; turn right and reach a small hanging valley. Head for the opposite side, and climb to a glacial dell between two spurs, cross it in the direction of a distinct rock gully. Climb the gully with circumspection, for the rocks are often covered with verglas and gravel. Past the gully, you'll get to the top of the spur where two fixed bivouacs are located: C. Pol (3.183m, sleeps 6) and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3.200m, sleeps 9). It requires 5h'30/6h'30 from Valnontey.

Second day: Go toward the cliff directly behind the two bivouacs for about one hundred meters, then turn left (beware of crevasses) aiming for Colle della Luna. (On the left one can admire the great seracs coming down from Testa della Tribolazione) Skirt the large crevasses and continue past Punta di Ceresole, aiming for Colle Chamonin (3.692m). From there, climb the snow ridge to the large shoulder under the Summit. Cross on the South Face to the base of a short chimney-gully that ends at a narrow notch between the Summit and a slightly lower gendarme. From the notch, it is an easy climb to the Top. The route from the col to the Vertex can be rather nasty when covered with fresh snow or vergalss: pay due attention. This is in any case an alpine route that requires fitness and experience.

Gear

Huts

From Cogne: Bivacchi Carlo Pol (3.183m) and M. Gérard - E. Grappein (3.200m), located on the spur that divides the northern and southern branches of the Tribolazione Glacier.
Difficulty: PD. Reachable from Valnontey (see above).

Red Tape

Within the borders of the P.N.G.P. (Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso), at the moment (summer 2004), dogs generally are not allowed, except on a couple of trails, and camping is forbidden (except for climbers from sunset till dawn). No fees are due.

Acknowledgements

I want to thank Fabio (Brenta) for the translation of the text from Italian and also Livioz who provided the coordinates of the summit and helped with the edit. And to (Osvaldo Cardellina) for the translation of the text from English to Italian.