Tuesday, April 8, 2014

2nd-last-move... 2times in a day

BOOOOOOOM - ... since 3weeks i was more or less unable to climb the start sequence of "insanity" anymore. i just could not understand what i was doing wrong... i felt strong... was rested... good skin... so i blamed the hot weather... at least i had something to blame.... i was already close to quit, to burn all my pads and climbing shoes... ;) but i had one more thing in mind: trying a new shoe as i really felt i was slipping around on my heel at the start sequence! result: despite 20C i did the sequence 4times and made my way up to the SECOND LAST MOVE TWICE in the same session - climbing einfisch/keinfisch (no kneepad) in between to show beta to some friends... ;)

first go it was super close... i felt fresh till the second before the match-move two moves from the top... second go i felt already tired at the third move but made it again to the second-last move (move nr. 29) - it was quite a fight.... i really "hate" that move as it takes me (too) much power to place the feet and somehow my bodyposition never feels "right". luckily a friend of mine pointed out a possible beta without replacing the feet... that should save just the energy needed to get to the top! sadly that was AFTER my first go... i am a 100%sure i would have made it to the top with the new beta...ififififififififififif...

high on "insanity" - you should not - but you can go down on that move... - even twice a day.... match that hold and move to the lip.. *grrrrrrrr*

as happy as i am about that great progress from not making the 3rd move anymore to climb to move 29 (out of 30)... it also looks like i wasted three weeks of perfect weather and conditions with a too large and old climbing-shoe... sounds like a beginner mistake... and it IS a beginner-mistake... but better to discover my error in equipment choices late then never ... and yep, nice to make it to move 29... but WHY NOT FOR ONCE get a bit luck and make it to move 30... and TOP IT OUT???!!!

so then... the rabbit just got another carrot in front of his hungry mouth... i already wanted to go up to sustenpass but weather up there turns bad so i will back in the game on "insanity" for another session... - two more moves and that nasty mantle... 7A-boulder can't be that much of a problem after climbing that far... does it... ;)