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oh hells yeah!!! any thoughts of possibly mounting a VASA like on the mm2k9 and using a 12gr and a spring feed along the left side of the body? either way looks like your having alot of fun as well as having some great ideas dood!!!

I would actually have to agree that it might make more sense in the long run to start from scratch rather than modding an existing body. Maybe mod for he proto, but if you have ambitions to produce more than one, you're going to have a much cleaner end product starting with a slug or block of aluminum than cutting up warp bodies. Seems like the idea of using the sear as a trigger has been tried before with epic failure as the end result. However, you could still move the valve forward and use a vert mounted ram to actuate the on/off through pneumatics or electronics.

Flatliner did something sort of simliar. While he still had a rail, the did move the valve and everything forward and had the valve input on the bottom and used a ram to hit the back bottom of the sear to actuate the on/off.

2013-01-07_18-09-59_819.jpg I have been working on one on and off for a few years. Started with a solenoid and board out of a Hyper frame. Now has a Virtue board with eyes from a Spyder. Made the body from 2" square aluminum, frame from 3/4 aluminum copied from the Hyper frame. Solenoid sits vertical under the on/off valve and pushes on the sear.

It works but chops paint. I don't think the warp is starting to feed soon enough with the Hyper frame board. Had warp tied to solenoid for activation. Now have Virtue board with eyes for a Spyder that should help with that and working on how to connect warp to board so that it will run the whole time trigger is pulled and when held. I also have to re do the ball detents sens I put in the eyes. I have an idea on how to connect the warp but working on another project now. I should be able to get back to it soon.

What about a sear that has the down rod angled backwards. Similar to a reverse emag sear if that helps draw a picture. Screwing with the geometry?

You can re-arrange the shape of the sear all you want, as long as you keep the pivot point, the on/off pin surface and the sear catch in the same spot. It comes out as a "two-force member", so you can take whatever route you need from the pivot to the clevis hole. It could be a "C" shape. Actually making the sear is the hard part. "Hard" haha, get it?