Converted deck? I'd be tempted to drywall over it Or if you're attached to that aesthetic, put another layer of boards over the existing. Hope your medical coverage includes massage, that's a lot of "hands over head" work. I ache just thinking about it.

walterJoined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 4288
Location: metro-motown-area

9/23/17 12:45 PM

this is f*cking brutal

after a couple hours of donkey-work and making minimal progress...we're punting, just laying new tongue-in-groove right over top. $300 in materials.

Just make really sure that you have cleaned out any punky or rotten parts of the old wood before you lay the new wood over it. Do you have moisture issues above the current ceiling that is causing the pain peel and the funky conditions around the light fixture? That should be addressed with ventilation.

SOME people know when to tighten their belts and redouble their effort.
Isn't your wife glad to know you're not like some people?

Pat ClancyJoined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 1343
Location: Manchester, CT

9/26/17 5:16 PM

Chemical stripper

Have you thought about a chemical stripper? Haven't used one myself, but I see it on DIY shows, and it seems pretty effective.

Jesus SavesJoined: 16 Jun 2005
Posts: 1050
Location: South of Heaven

9/26/17 5:46 PM

A cyclist's approach

By any chance can you bead blast it? And then afterwards go to work on touching up some titanium frames, including mine? How much do you charge?

SparkyJoined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16158
Location: Portland, OR

9/26/17 7:39 PM

Have you ascertained the lead content and remediation ramifications. I know, I am a party pooper...

Matthew CurrieJoined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 752
Location: Vermont

9/27/17 8:25 AM

Unfortunately not made any more, and expensive when it was, and not ideal for ceilings unless you're a weight lifter, but this tool would do the job. It uses a non-clogging abrasive disk, and really works.

But given the work, and the possibility of lead, I'd go for covering it anyway. Instead of paint, use varnish and it will look pretty nice.

KerryIronsJoined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 2880
Location: Midland, MI

9/27/17 9:38 AM

Lead

It is my understanding that lead is a possible issue if the paint is older than 1978.

walterJoined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 4288
Location: metro-motown-area

9/27/17 11:07 AM

any remediation of the existing stuff involves 100% overhead work. holding a powered stripper/sander overhead is brutal. chemical stripper is messy as hell, we did that on the walls in another room -- overhead is a non-starter.

all will require multiple passes to get the material clean to the point we'd be satisfied. nevermind that some can introduce heavy metals into the air. many reasons against anything but simply covering and securing the lead paint in place. we're doing same with the asbestos tile in the basement!

the room was formerly a covered patio, now enclosed and a proper 4-season room within the heated space with fresh R40 fiberglass installed above. aside from the nasty paint the wood is in good shape (dry). likewise the roof overhead is new along with gutters/siding/etc.

SparkyJoined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16158
Location: Portland, OR

9/27/17 11:17 AM

If it was me, I would put 3/8 foil board insulation and new bead board over it. I know the new wood will be pricey, but the project time will be so much less. Not to mention you can do stain/pickling/eggshell, any finish you like.

You also may well cause health issues for yourself, family, downwind properties, etc if in fact if lead.

walterJoined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 4288
Location: metro-motown-area

9/27/17 12:00 PM

new wood is cheap

like $400 materials. i'd pay that all day to avoid all this thankless overhead bullsh!t work!

why the new foil board? there's already new R40 fiberglass above it. added measure to secure the lead paint from migrating or otherwise becoming airborne?

SparkyJoined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16158
Location: Portland, OR

9/27/17 12:21 PM

Something cheap as a substrate to allow the boards to install quick and flat. If a vapor barrier is on the face of the insulation above the existing board, I'd use a non vapor barrier underlay... overlay? ;) Don't want to lock the old wood between 2 vapor barriers.

Is there sufficient cell structure to the existing wood so that nails will bite well?

I stripped the all the siding on my 1920's two story foursquare using the tool linked below. Uses infra-red to bubble the paint off the wood. Faster than a heat gun, and safer with lead paint. Off course is still took 4 summers of work to do the house and garage!

You've been doing renovations for a while now so what's below won't have any major revelations. I read the other comments, any repetition is agreement.

The room has been sealed for a year, right? It's as dry as it will ever be. The way I'm reading this is the "damage" was tolerable at first and it was more important to
get the slate down and the walls up. And the basement. Now the ceiling is the squeaky wheel.

Pull the crown molding, you're going to replace it with an even nicer one. She will get a great looking room, you'll get a miter saw. The nicer crown molding will hide flaws.
Sorry if it's your work being pulled.

Seal off the room completely. The photos show a mirror, an open threshold, a chest of drawers and a piece of patio furniture. They are all out of the room during
the process and plastic is taped up everywhere from current molding down. Cover the beautiful slate floor.

BTW: Last year I stripped the basement of a ~1964 Cape Cod. The tile was not asbestos but the mastic was. We ended up using a soy based product, Beanie-do, Bean-e-doo,
you get the gist. Since it was bound in an oily film there was no dust. Finished it with garage paint.

walterJoined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 4288
Location: metro-motown-area

9/27/17 7:31 PM

existing wood is rock solid

thick and ready to hold nails for another 65 years.

PLeeJoined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3555
Location: Brooklyn, NY

9/28/17 9:54 AM

If the existing wood is that old, rock could be the operative word. You might have to predrill nail holes to avoid splitting.