Sexy, skintight, sophisticated: How China's iconic dress has survived a century

Hiufu Wong, CNN

Updated 1304 GMT (2104 HKT) June 30, 2015

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Cheongsam story – From its turn as a 1920s feminist statement to modern incarnations, the Hong Kong Museum of History's "A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story" celebrates the iconic dress. This contemporary version (not featured in the exhibit) is from Hong Kong fashion brand Shanghai Tang.

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Guru of golden era – Founded in 1966 in Hong Kong, Linva Tailor has watched the rise and fall of the cheongsam's popularity. "Cheongsam becomes trendy every decade or two in a cycle," says owner Leung Ching-wah.

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Innovative designs – Founded in Hong Kong in 1994, Shanghai Tang has been a pioneer in transforming the cheongsam into a modern ready-to-wear dress. Last year's fall/winter collection incorporated sleek leather in place of traditional silk.

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"A Century of Fashion" exhibit – The Hong Kong Museum of History's cheongsam exhibit explains the evolution of the iconic and beloved Chinese dress through 130 gorgeous displays.

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Secrets of a slit – Worn by Hong Kong actress Linda Lin Dai, four-time Best Actress award winner at the Asia Film Festival, this cheongsam exhibits a popular style in the 1950s, with an extremely narrow hem. A zip sewn into the top of the side slit on the left side makes it more convenient for the wearer to get in and out of a car.

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Miss Hong Kong 1977 – This cheongsam was made by master Mong Kar-mo and worn by Loletta Chu-Lo when she won the 1977 Miss Hong Kong Pageant. Master Mong currently teaches a class on how to make cheongsam at the Hong Kong YMCA.

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Intricate beauty – The main elements of the dress's original silhouette -- high collar, flower buttons on the placket -- make it easy to incorporate into new designs.

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Ready right now – At Hong Kong cheongsam shops, customers choose a style off the rack before deciding on details such as flower buttons on the placket, sleeve length and slit depth.

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Custom fit – Master tailor Leung Ching-wah (here with wife Joana Fung) suggests longer sleeves for customers conscious of their arms and a higher waistline for those who wish to hide their stomachs.

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Representing Hong Kong – Per tradition, Miss Hong Kong candidates wear cheongsam during the award ceremony, as shown here by the winner and runners-up in 2006.

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Story highlights

The Chinese cheongsam has a long history, but some worry its days are numbered

Hong Kong's cheongsam industry boomed in 1960s

The assistant curator of a Hong Kong cheongsam exhibit believes the dress will live on

The slender silhouette of the beautiful heroine, Su Li-zhen (Maggie Cheung), emerging from the darkness, revealing herself in a figure-hugging cheongsam.

The man she passes, newspaper editor Chow Mo-wan (Tony Leung), can't help falling in love with such a figure of feminine elegance.

Set in the 1960s, the golden era of the cheongsam in Hong Kong, Wong Kar Wai's hit movie, "In the Mood for Love" (2000), which won multiple best foreign movie awards, was a powerful showcase for how elegant and sexy the classic Chinese dress can be.

Wong has said 20 to 25 cheongsam alone were made for the character played by Maggie Cheung.

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"A Century of Fashion: Hong Kong Cheongsam Story," now running at the Hong Kong Museum of History until March 3, features 130 exhibits showcasing the history and evolution of the cheongsam, particularly the eras featured in popular films such as "In the Mood for Love" and "The World of Suzie Wong" (1960).

Early cheongsam a feminist statement

The exhibition is a study in the history surrounding the iconic Chinese dress that can be confusing even to Chinese -- the proper use of "cheongsam" and "qipao," for instance.

Though modern, hybrid versions of the cheongsam are popular, there remains an appetite for the more traditional shapes.

"Classes teaching how to make cheongsam are offered in Hong Kong," says Chan, adding that the continuity of passing down the skills for cheongsam-making shouldn't be reserved for great tailors.

YMCA HK's cheongsam classes for the public are conducted by Mong Kar-mo, a former tailor for the Miss Hong Kong Pageant.

Linva Tailor receives five or six orders per day and Leung hasn't thought of retiring.

"I started out in this business just hoping to make a living, but then I grew to learn the beauty of cheongsam," says Leung.

"It's different from ethnic costumes like the kimono and hanbok, as cheongsam has a highly flexible design," says Chan. "Elements like dress length, different materials and different levels of complexity make dresses suitable for a variety of occasions."

"As one Chinese saying goes, 'cheongsam is practical enough for the kitchen but presentable for the living room,'" says Chan.

"The reason it's been able to last for a century is because cheongsam is really beautiful on its wearer."

Ordering a cheongsam

At Hong Kong cheongsam shops, customers first choose a style off the rack before deciding on details such as fabric, flower buttons on the placket, sleeve length and slit depth.

The tailor then takes measurements and customers return for another fitting after a few days.

Final adjustments are made before decorative bindings and flower buttons are added and the dress can be properly finished.

The entire process usually takes two months.

Visitors who don't have as much time can choose a ready-made cheongsam and have it altered.