Auranthetic Charger
Documentation

Last updated 2010.09.22

The Auranthetic Charger was a small electric motorcycle
produced in California in the 1970's. Apparently, a three-wheeler
was produced in addition to the more common two-wheeler. The
machines appear to have come in any colour you wanted, as long as
it was orange. It is hard to find information on this machine now,
so this material is presented in the hopes that it may be helpful
to those who happen across such a machine and wish to restore it
to operating condition.

Original Manual

I have not seen an actual original manual for the Auranthetic
Charger, only photocopies of them. There were at least two
versions (neither dated) for the 2-wheeler version of the
Auranthetic Charger. I have reproduced the content of the longer
version of the manual below, although some of the formatting has
been lost. The shorter version had separate unpacking and assembly
sheets; this information being included in the larger version of
the manual. As the two sets of instructions are somewhat
different, I have reproduced the separate instructions below as
well.

" C H A R G E R "

ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE

Introduction

This manual has been prepared to familiarize you with the
operation of your electric motorcycle. It also covers maintenance
and all parts. Please read all the instructions prior to initial
operation.

Standard repair tools will be adequate to perform the entire
range of authorized repairs. Specific techniques may vary, based
upon the individuals mechanical background and ability, however,
the mechanical repairs are relatively simple.

(Figures 1 and 2 go here - see below. They show two batteries,
mounted one in front of the other, crossways on the frame. The
front battery has the positive post (blue) to the left and
negative post (red) to the right. The rear battery has the
positive post (yellow) to the right and the negative post (green)
to the left.)

BATTERY CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS

CORRECT ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKES ON THE "CHARGER"

If the brake adjustments are set incorrectly, the motor can
burn out in less than 15 miles.

Proper Setting

Step One:

Sit on the bike on level ground with the key off. Push the bike
forward with your feet only (no power). The bike should roll
freely. Apply the Left or Rear Brake only. The bike should come to
a complete stop. If the bike does not stop then tighten the Brake
Adjustment knob on the Rear Wheel only to the point where the bike
will stop completely by repeating the above procedure. Remember
the power is off at all times. After you have reached the
proper setting allow the bike to coast freely. If the unit will
not coast, the brake is set too tight. Once the proper adjustment
has been made then...

Step Two:

Go through the same procedure with the Right or Front Brake
Adjustment Knob.

Step Three:

Turn on the key and twist the throttle to the low speed,
release the throttle immediately, apply the Rear or Left Brake and
the bike should come to a stop. Turn the throttle to the low speed
again, release immediately, apply the Front or Right Brake and the
bike should come to a stop. If the Front Brake does not
stop the bike, then tighten the Adjustment Knob on the Front Wheel
until it does, after going through the above procedure again.

Step Four:

Turn off the key, and with no power, again allow the bike to
coast. It should coast freely.

Step Five:

Turn on the key. Take the bike on the road and proceed into
high speed for fifty yards. Release the throttle and apply just
the Rear or Left Brake -- the unit will slow down but willnot come to a complete halt immediately but will slow down
gradually and then come to a stop. Your Rear Brake or Left Handle
is now set properly. Leave it alone for now.

6

Step Six:

Repeat all of Step #5. When the Right or Front Brake is
applied, the bike should stop completely in a very short distance.
If it doesn't then tighten the Front Brake. Go through Step #6
again until the proper result is obtained.

Step Seven:

Turn off the key and check that the bike coasts freely. If not,
loosen the Front or Rear Brake that is too tight and go back
through the steps again.

Step Eight:

The brakes in your unit should now be properly set. Now follow
the next test carefully.

Turn on the key. Go through the two throttle speeds while
riding on the road. Proceed a few blocks at top speed, and apply
the Rear or Left Brake, your brake light goes on and the unit
slows down. Now apply the Front or Right Brake while keeping the
Left or Rear Brake on. The bike will come to a perfect
stop. If you ride in hilly country, the Front Brake will
have to be tightened a few turns more.

The Front Brake is your most important piece of
equipment. The bike is properly stopped by using both brakes at
all times. The time in stopping can be regulated by engaging and
releasing, then re-engaging the Right or FrontBrake.
This is the exact opposite of a gas motorcycle. Please remember
you arenot driving a gas motorcycle. By carefully
following the above directions, the life you save may be your own.

Your brakes should be checked anytime they do not feel right to
you, the rider.

If the Rear Brake is over-tightened, the result is the same as
attempting to pull a busload of people - - your motor burns out
and this is not covered under the Warranty. This is defined
as abuse and abuse.

If for some reason your brakes do not feel right after going
through all the above stages, then contact your dealer immediately
for assistance.

7

M A N D A T O R Y R E A D I N G

I M P O R T A N T

8

Pages 9 & 10 are an exploded parts diagram. There is some
overlap between the two images presented below to enable you to
piece them together.

9

10

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

MANDATORY READING BEFORE DRIVING BIKE

1. Treat the bike with respect and you will have many hours of
pleasure.

2. Check all local ordinance and license requirements.

3. As you sit on the seat facing the handlebars, go through the
preliminary procedure.

A. Black handgrip on left side does not move, the moveable
handle is for the rear brake.

B. Black handgrip on the right side rotates towards you. The
first turn is for the initial thrust and low speed, past the first
click is for full power. The handgrip has a spring return which
brings the bike into neutral automatically when released. The
right handle in the front controls the front brake. *Remember - in
case of emergency, the power is turned off by letting the right
hand grip return to neutral and turning the key to a twelve
o'clock position.

C. The black pedals at the front of the battery case fold up
and down and are footrests while driving.

D. The gas tank contains three items: (1) the key switch to
start the motor, (2) the voltmeter which shows the amount of fuel
remaining in the batteries, (3) and the male plug for the charger.

E. The kickstand is by your left foot. It is spring loaded.

F. The brake light goes on when either brake handle is
squeezed. The headlight and taillight for night driving go on when
the push button on top of the headlight is depressed and released.
The lights are turned off in the same manner. The Hi - Lo beam
switch is on the left handle. *Remember - you cannot go as far at
night due to the additional power being used by the headlight.

G. The horn is on the left handgrip.

H. The key is on and the motor running, although silent, when
turned counter clockwise to 10 o'clock. The key is off when
straight up at 12 o'clock.

11

THINGS TO REMEMBER

1. Make sure all wires are tightened down firmly before
operating vehicle. A loose connection can cause an intermittent
short which whill (sic) heat the motor causing a tremendous loss
in power.

2. Disconnect the charger from the wall before starting out on
a trip.

3. Before charging the motorcycle, check battery acid to be
sure plates are covered. Do not overfill acid will bubble and
overflow. Do not charge in a closed room such as a closet.

*Remember - when dealing with batteries, you are dealing with
sulfuric acid and it will burn if allowed on skin or clothing.

4. Do not operate with more than one person. If you put more
than one person on the bike it is overloaded.

5. The "Charger" was not designed as a trail or dirt
bike.

6. This is a street vehicle and any other use will immediately
void your warranty.

7. Wash off any excess acid spilled on batteries with clear
water. Water will not harm any of the wiring or electrical
components, including the motor.

8. While charging the bike, be sure the key is in the OFF
position.

9. Be sure the kickstand engages and locks when placed in the
down position.

10. Turn off the key when parked. The motor makes no noise when
on. People do not realize the power is on and are apt to turn the
hand grip, causing an accident or serious injury.

*Remember - you are dealing with electricity. Do not cross any
wires or leads. Follow instructions carefully.

Enjoy yourself, obey all rules and drive safely.

12

BATTERY MAINTENANCE

FLUID LEVEL

The fluid level in the batteries should be checked at regular
intervals. Keep the batteries filled by adding distilled water
until the liquid level rises to the bottom of the split rings in
the vent tubes.

DO NOT OVERFILL -- overfilling will cause the loss of the
electrolyte resulting in poor battery performance, short life and
excessive corrosion around the batteries. Inspect the external
condition of the batteries periodically for damage and dirt and
corrosion. The top of the batteries should be kept clean. A
collection of the acid film and dirt on the top of the batteries
could result in a current flow between the terminals causing them
to slowly discharge. Clean the top of the batterieis by washing
with a soda solution and rinsing with clear water.

CONDITION

If the case of a battery or its cell covers are broken or
cracked, the battery should be replaced.

To insure good electrical contact, the battery cables should be
clean and tight on the battery posts. If the battery posts or
terminals are corroded, the cables should be disconnected and the
terminals and clamps cleaned separately with a soda solution and a
stiff brush. Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the posts and
cable clamps, after reconnecting the cables, to help retard
corrosion.

Freezing temperatures can ruin a wet battery. A battery can be
protected from freezing by keeping it in fully charged condition.
This applies whether the battery is in storage or in service.
Never add anti-freeze to prevent freezing as this will destroy the
battery.

RECHARGING BATTERIES

The batteries should be recharged from 2 to 4 times per week
depending upon usage of the motorcycle. During periods of
extensive operation, the batteries should be recharged each day.

To recharge batteries: 1. Place power switch in OFF
position to activate the charging circuit. 2. Insert the plug
from the charger in the receptacle provided at the side of the
instrument compartment. 3. Connect the charger to a 100-120
volt, 60 cycle outlet and turn on.

13

RECHARGING BATTERIES (continued)

4. A recharging time of ten to twelve hours should be allowed
to bring the batteries up to a full charge. The actual time
required to recharge the batteries will depend upon their
condition prior to recharging. Do not overcharge the batteries.
Charging the batteries in excess of what is required can result in
damage to them. The chargeing provided with the motorcycle
automatically shuts off the charging current when the batteries
become fully charged, thereby preventing overcharging.

WARNING:

Batteries should only be recharged in a well ventilated room.
The gases issuing from a recharging battery are explosive and can
do considerable damage if ignited. Do not allow any flames,
lighted cigarettes or accidental sparking near battery openings at
any time.

BATTERY TESTS

Battery tests are performed to determine whether the batteries
are good and usable, require charging or should be replaced.
Regular periodic testing provides a means of anticipating battery
failure. The simplest method of testing a battery is by a
Hydrometer. They are readily available from any automotive supply
store. The Hydrometer should be graduated to read from 1.160 to
1.320 in graduations of 0.005 specific gravity. The graduated
markings should be not less than 1/16 inch apart. The graduated
portion of the stem should be about 2 inches long. Clearance
between float and barrel, at smallest diameter, should be a
minimum of 1/8 inch around all sides. Each cell in the battery
should read 1.280 when fully charged.

1. Remove tires from crate. Check tire air pressure (tires
should be inflated to 35 lbs.)

2. Remove bike from crate. (Caution should be taken not to
damage rear light fixture.)

3. Remove handle bar lugs and bolts from handle bar fixture.
Position handle bars in fixture. (Handle bars should form parallel
line with front forks.) Replace lugs over handle bars and tighten
evenly. (Caution should be taken not to strip knurling on handle
bars.)

4. Place bike on stand so wheels, when installed, will clear
the ground.

8. Insert axle and spacers. As in Fig. 1 and tighten firmly.
Nuts on axle should be tightened evenly so that each has equal
thread.

9. Adjust front brake. Do not overtighten.

10. Remove rear axle.

11. Place rear brake drum into rear wheel hub.

12. Fit chain over sprocket on motor and rear wheel.

13. Place slot in rear brake drum over brake stop on swing arm.

14. Insert axle and spacers as per Fig. 2.

15. Pull rear wheel back until chain is tight. (Chain should
have 1/2" play.) Tighten chain adjustment nuts. Chain
adjustment nuts should be tightened evenly so that rear wheel and
sprockets line up straight.

16. Tighten rear axle.

17. Hook brake light spring into hole provided on brake lever.

18. Adjust rear brake. Do not overtighten.

19. Remove battery cover and service battery as per
instructions on battery.

20. After 1280 acid is put into the batteries do not hook up
battery connections until you have read and completely understand
the manual and instruction sheets.

People with operational Auranthetics don't often seem to ask
what they are worth, because they have no desire to sell them.

If you have an Auranthetic you want to restore, I will try to
help you. If you have an Auranthetic you would like to donate to
someone else to restore or use, I will try to help you. If you are
trying to sell an Auranthetic for more than a token sum, you need
to talk to someone else - good luck.