Removing
your transfer case will make the job a whole lot easier, even
though it takes extra time.

When
removing the skid plate and disconnecting the drive shafts,
be sure to support the transmission with a jack. Depending
on your amount of lift, you may need to put something on top
of the jack like a 4x4 piece of wood in order to reach. Once
the plate is off, drain the transfer case fluids. Be sure
to properly dispose of the fluids.

While
working on your transfer case, it's a good idea to stick a coffee
can underneath the front output shaft yoke for support.

If
you've got a lot of miles on your Wrangler, now is the perfect
time to replace your chain.

Having
a torque wrench will be a big plus. It is important to get the
kit on to proper specs.

It seems that
every time that Cole gets something new for Project Cross Trainer,
I get conned into helping with the installation. While this is usually
for my light-holding or tool-fetching abilities, his latest upgrade
actually called upon my specialty; transmissions and transfer cases.
After having worked in a transmission shop for 10 years, I have
learned my way around gearboxes fairly well. Fortunately for the
do it yourselfer, the JB kit does not require an intricate knowledge
of the internals of your drivetrain, but just a basic understanding.
The only special tools required to dive into this project are snap
ring pliers (external), and a torque wrench. The average set of
tools should be all that is needed beyond that.

The one thing
that will make this project much easier is removing the transfer
case from the vehicle. It can be done in the vehicle and the JB
instructions will tell you this, but I discourage you from doing
it this way. The chance of something falling out of place or not
sealing properly greatly increase by doing it this way. Saving an
hour by leaving the unit in the vehicle could be lost later in removing
it to fix a leak that could have been prevented.

On to the
install:

1) Remove the
skid plate and disconnect the drive shafts, speedometer cable and/or
wiring, linkage, vacuum harness, vent, and 4WD indicator switch
harness. Be sure to support the transmission with a jack.

2) Drain the
transfer case.

3) Remove the
6 nuts securing the transfer case to transmission. Lower the jack
to gain access to the top of nuts if necessary. Once all of the
6 nuts have been removed, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.

4) Remove the
front output shaft yoke. New Process says that you shouldn't reuse
the nut, however, I have never had any trouble doing so, as long
as I used "Loc-tite" upon re-assembly. Use your own judgement
here.

5) Set the transfer
case on the 6 studs around the front output shaft and support the
front output shaft with a coffee can.

6) Remove the
speedometer housing and drive gear from the unit.

7) Remove the
extension housing and give it to the neighbor's kid to play with
in the sandbox.

8) Remove the
rear bearing snap ring.

9) Remove the
rear housing bolts and housing. Pry the housing off using the tabs,
if necessary. Do not pry against sealing surfaces.

10) Remove the
case half attaching bolts and the rear case half. There is a slot
at either end of the case where you can pry the case halves apart.
Do not pry anywhere else. When the rear case half is lifted away
from the front half, the oil pump will come with it.

12) Lift the
front output shaft, rear output shaft, and chain out of the front
case as an assembly.

13) Remove the
front output shaft from the chain. If you have a lot of off-roading
time on your transfer case, it may be a good time to replace the
chain.

14) Remove the
snap ring that holds the synchronizer hub and drive sprocket on
the output shaft and remove the drive sprocket.

15) The JB kit
comes with two caged needle bearings that need to be pressed into
the drive sprocket.

16)Once you
have installed the bearings into the drive sprocket and lubed the
bearings with petroleum jelly. The reason we used petroleum jelly
is because it dissipates better and does not effect the transmission
fluid like grease would. Install the sprocket and synchronizer hub
onto the new JB output shaft with their respective snap ring.

17) Install
the front and rear output shafts onto the chain and lower them into
the front case half.

18) Clean the
sealing surfaces of both case halves with brake parts cleaner and
apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to the front case half.

19) Re-assemble
the oil pump and install it into the rear case half.

20) While holding
the oil pump in the rear case half, lower it onto the front half
and install the bolts. The two bolts with the washers go into the
holes with the dowel pins. Torque the bolts to 30 ft. lbs.

21) Install
the new speedometer drive gear with the supplied snap rings.

22) Clean the
sealing surfaces for the rear housing with brake parts cleaner and
apply a thin bead of RTV sealant.

23) Install
the new rear housing and torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs.

24) Install
the front and rear yokes. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to the
inner flange of each nut and "Loc-Tite" to the threads.
Torque the bolts to 110 ft. lbs.

25) Install
the transfer case back into the vehicle without the transfer case
lowering kit!!!

For full
installation instructions, check with JB Conversions and Tom Wood.
This article is not intended to be a full how-to installation sheet.