If you have a G1, or any golf cart with single a arm suspension, then you are aware of the limitations of that type of suspension. I was struggling trying to get the ride better while keeping the lifted suspension and be able to use my snow plow, etc. The single a arm setup was just not right. I'd lift the plow up and the shocks would bottom out. I tried three different shock configurations and I couldn't get it right without building in that positive caster! So I dreamed of a long travel suspension with dual a arms and wondered if it would solve all my problems....yeah right huh?

Well since no one makes a long travel kit for the G1 I was forced to graft an atv suspension in there. I got a good deal on a complete Yamaha Warrior atv frame with front suspension, brakes, hubs, rotors, and tie rods.

I don't know but I can tell you the stock swing arm setup doesn't have more than 2" of travel, even with the softest atv shocks I used. The front is now so plush and the rear is stiff as a brick. Without shocks on the swing arm will move up and down as far as I want it to. I put the atv shocks on and it barely moves. Could this design setup and location of the shocks make some kind of a bind somehow?

I have seen guys to the 3 links and the long travel jakes kits, but no one has done a G1. I'd love to get some suggestions on how I can get the rear to move like the front.

You can look at G2/9 for rear suspension ideas they are nearly identical far as the rear engine cradle. You may have to move the shock mounts sounds like they run out of travel. I get the same thing with the lift I made, I changed the arms in front so they are longer and the shock leaned in softer, it rides nice now. But the rear I had to stand the shocks up more in order to hold up the box full of cargo, and that made the rear hard. I wish I had the time I would put a soft shock on the rear and have it get harder down low, or somehow be able to switch shocks for loads etc.

You can look at G2/9 for rear suspension ideas they are nearly identical far as the rear engine cradle. You may have to move the shock mounts sounds like they run out of travel. I get the same thing with the lift I made, I changed the arms in front so they are longer and the shock leaned in softer, it rides nice now. But the rear I had to stand the shocks up more in order to hold up the box full of cargo, and that made the rear hard. I wish I had the time I would put a soft shock on the rear and have it get harder down low, or somehow be able to switch shocks for loads etc.

The shocks are definitely not bottomed out. These are atv shocks with approx 5" of stroke. They are from the front of a Honda 250ex. I went with a smaller shock thinking that it would soften it up, but it's just as stiff as with the 400ex shocks in it. There must be a geometry issue?

If the swing arm setup moves freely with no shocks on, and it only travels 1" no matter how hard I jump up and down on it, there's got to be a bind? It's not hitting anything frame related. Does having the shocks straight up and down have anything to do with it?

I've studied atv rear swing arms and the shock are always tilted away from the swing, meaning toward the front. Most of them also have some sort of a linkage arm built into the bottom mount of the shock. Is this what prevents binding?

If it moves free then it moves free, do remember there is little weight on the shocks because part of the engine and trans are on the axle itself not the frame. An ATV shock might be stiffer because it is laid down and engine is on the frame, but people here use them all the time no problem so it does not make sense you having this problem. If you lay the shocks down it puts more leverage on them, makes the ride smoother and bottom out faster. I stood the stock shocks up more to make them stiffer with a load. Did the opposite in front and it was weaker and used more travel. Unless your shock is hitting something.