A Secret Restaurant in Brooklyn From a Michelin-Starred Chef

Chef Paul Liebrandt is a busy man. Last summer, the Michelin-starred British chef, formerly of Corton, opened Elm in Brooklyn's King and Grove hotel, to great acclaim. In December, he released his memoir-cookbook hybrid, To The Bone (Clarkson Potter, $30). This week, Elm received a James Beard Award nomination for America's best new restaurant.

In the midst of all this, Liebrandt quietly opened Little Elm over the winter, an eight-seat chef's counter within Elm. The two restaurants might share a space, but the menus vary widely—there is no overlap, and Little Elm only offers an eight-course menu for $135 which changes daily. The food is overseen by executive chef Mazen Mustafa, but Liebrandt is often in the kitchen with his watchful eye. On a recent visit, the menu featured foie gras mousse with hon shimeji mushrooms, lobster pasta, and Elysian Fields lamb with brown butter. The dishes are delicate but still comforting—reminiscent of Atera, another New York restaurant with limited seating and a cult following. There's a fantastic cheese course of Stichelton cheese paired with pear, which Liebrandt calls "a blue for people who don't like blue cheese." And to end it all, the kitchen brought out a selection of petit-fours, including black currant pâte de fruit, Thai iced tea-flavored canelé, and chocolate truffles. If you're absolutely stuffed, feel free to ask for a to-go box—the tiny treats are just as delicious the next morning washed down with some strong coffee. theelmnyc.com

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