He has the tunnel going too, didn't make it into the pic. Showing dash bracing. He asked if the body had to come off to get the firewall out. Well, yeah now it does. I advised that he just cut it in half, take it out and use it as a pattern. And thats why I left it flat.

Had hood set up on the truck this morning after finishing fender mount tabs. Couldn't fit boards with body blocked up so took the cab off and did some easy stuff thats easy to reach and needed doing-

Yes I will be shaving the cowl vent. I am assuming that blasting will be part of this deal... at whatever point it is sensible to do that.

Advertisement

The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to idrivejunk For This Useful Post:

I did make some bend adjustments with the setup shown above to fine-tune the patch's front edge at hood gap. But after initial rolling of the light step shown on the patch, most of the bend was done by tipping a few passes with the same rollers to bend, then chasing with loose english wheel and flat anvil for uniformity. Jaws for the finishing touches to the contour. Of course vise and anvil were key players along the way as well.

Before any of that though, I english wheeled the patch to get it laying down against the cowl with proper-ish contours.

Left some of the old channel at front, enough so that next I can knock it forward against the patch then cut and tack for a butt in the vertical flat. Then I'll recheck hood fit and go for it.

The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to idrivejunk For This Useful Post:

I'll have to show the setup under there, missed getting a pic of it. Rest assured that it is supported and protected even if slid around on the floor. And believe it or not, it sits perfect and doors work even without the high bar. That is there because rockers are about to be scrap.

One more dump before bed, emptying the bag o' pix... is there any more toilet paper?

Same thing but hosted by blog-

What I did to keep the back of the cab (just barely) off the floor is tack tubing to the skin at the bottom seam and at bottom of back window. That one has angle connecting it also to the bottom of the windshield bed by way of the top of the back window. If you followed that, you may also remember when I tried to wheel out a model A side in one piece. That dished and mangled piece of scrap serves as a skid plate connecting the upper and lower horizontal tubing, and both tubes are juuust big enough the let the cab wall hang free.

For the record, however... there is a repaired caved spot on the upper portion of the cab back wall, below the window on one side. You guys will crap moon rocks when you see how much filler and rust I will be dealing with. But I am at a point where I can set the cab down now and proceed. Pan and braces are back in now but no pic, got carried away cleaning up and thinking about food and plumb forgot.

But the pan fell right back into the same exact spot with the new rockers. There will be copious more hacking to do hidden hinges and bear claws, so no shortage of gore yet. Figure I best just keep it coming while everyone washes their hands.

This here was took after making holes for, but before screws. Five at front corners, six at rear. All good and tight. Just doing that started to square up cab corners.

The cologne zone-

New lunchandstuffbox from junk, definitely mine. Marked like my tool box and cart.

The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to idrivejunk For This Useful Post:

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.