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Thursday, March 1, 2012

Also in Progress: Vintage Surplice Bodice Dress

Man, I am all over the place right now. It's like UFO Land at Chez Gertie. I'm making a quilt, trimming a hat I blocked (I'm taking a millinery course at FIT!), and knitting some socks. And then last night I madly started dyeing 5 yards of extra-wide muslin in a tiny bucket in my kitchen sink to make a duvet cover. I'm basically out of my mind. So, what to do? Add another project, of course!

In December, I blogged about making the pattern above in velvet. Well, I've clearly missed the velvet train so I'm making it in cotton brocade! Peacock blue cotton brocade!

This pattern has a one-piece underarm gusset, as opposed to the two-piece gusset I wrote a tutorial on. It's different in its application in that you have to sew the entire underarm and side bodice seam first, leaving a diamond-shaped hole for the gusset. Then the gusset is inserted in one go, pivoting at each corner. It's kind of tricky, and I'm still working on sewing them a little more, um . . . effortlessly.

This brocade has a really lovely geometric pattern and a soft sheen.

I used fusible stay tape to stay the neckline and top of the sleeve, both of which are cut on the bias.

It really helped keep things in place. I didn't stay the back sleeve, and it stretched by a couple inches! Not to self: stay BOTH sleeves next time.

P.S. Oh, I'm also doing the final check on the pattern sheets for my book. Pippi is helping.

A suggestion for the diamond gussets - I sew them into one seam first (either onto the sleeve or onto the bodice if there's an armhole seam or to the front side if it's a kimono sleeve) and then stitch the armhole (or side seam) as usual. It makes the "usual" seam a little more complicated but it's way easier than sewing a patch into a hole =)

I just want to extent a heartfelt thanks to you for doing all the inspiring things that you do and speak about in your blog. It makes me feel good to know there are so many of us sew crazy people out there! Lol!

That's very pretty and the fabric looks just right for the dress. But is it really brocade? From the photo I would say it's a cloque - I think a matelasse would be similar but heavier. There should be an acute accent on the last e of both words, but my machine won't let me put it in.Gussets are a pain to sew but they do make a difference to that sort of sleeve, and yours are looking good.

The color is stunning, one of my favorites, and the pattern is beautiful as well. I love the fusible for stabilizing edges-- I used strips of fusible interfacing to stay the neckline of my Crepe, and I have never had an easier time with a neckline in my life. Not only did it stabilize it perfectly, but the sweetheart line is nice and crisp from the extra "oomph" the interfacing gave it. I don't think I will ever go back to staystitching.

I am all over the place with projects also. knitting a sweater and scarf, crocheting an afghan, and sewing a button up shirt. my husband idolizes his aunt for having so many hobbies, but complains that i never finish anything! inspiration comes at me different times! hahai would like to say i started sewing because of this blog. i have been following you for about a year and you have made so many beautiful pieces that made you look gorgeous (not that you needed help from your clothing to do that) that i just had to try it myself! thanks for all the hardwork you put into this blog!

Having made my first one-piece underarm gusset a few weeks ago, I can confirm that they are fiddly. Yours looks so amazingly neat, especially given you're using a brocade which must be thicker than what I was using...