A 30% overclock means everything the processor does is done 30% faster (more or less), so "real world" performance will depend on how CPU-dependent your program or game is. Overclocking also helps RAM realize it's full potential when using high speed memory clocks such as 2133, 2400, or 2600, resulting in even more speed and lower latency. Of course, to realize these gains will require more cash outlay for enhanced CPU cooling, at the very least $30 for a Hyper 212 Evo, or even better an H100 liquid cooling system for peace of mind. In my book the ability to boost performance 30% or more is well worth the extra $70-$80 needed for the right hardware. Get the 3570K

Ivy Bridge has a very good memory controller, it is designed for best compatibility with 1600 RAM. It also works even better with modules rated up to 2800 MHz if your motherboard and wallet can handle it. But with the 1600 modules your throughput is around 20 GB/s, more than you really need, so you won't feel the difference in normal use if you opt for higher speed RAM. Your real goal should be to reduce latency, so another strategy is to buy the higher binned RAM and underclock it so you can tighten the timings (and reduce the latency). You may be able to feel the difference then. But any decent 1600 modules will work great.

Ivy Bridge has a very good memory controller, it is designed for best compatibility with 1600 RAM. It also works even better with modules rated up to 2800 MHz if your motherboard and wallet can handle it. But with the 1600 modules your throughput is around 20 GB/s, more than you really need, so you won't feel the difference in normal use if you opt for higher speed RAM. Your real goal should be to reduce latency, so another strategy is to buy the higher binned RAM and underclock it so you can tighten the timings (and reduce the latency). You may be able to feel the difference then. But any decent 1600 modules will work great.

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Well as far as the 3570K its a toss up if they will work with 2800mhz so I wouldn't go that far...

I like to go with memory speed only in 9 or 10 latency limit. More than that for me is stupid.
Better 2000MHz on some 8-9 latency than 2400MHz C12.
1866 and 2133 MHz 2x8GB modules are perfect, I recommend two CORSAIR and GSkill newer models but more expensive RAM 1.5V and tighter latency.

I don't see a point to OC now, but in a couple months, new technologies and all, there may be a very valid point to OC it to 4.5Ghz or so... But that's of course assuming that it WILL give me a performance boost, which is what I'm trying to find out here - what performance boost I would get.

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The stock frequency is 3.40ghz, you can oc without much fear and so long as you have good cooling, to pretty easily 4.20-4.60ghz, so the performance boost is, "at a guess", between about 10-25% more speed in most instances.[i'm guessing here].

Ivy Bridge has a very good memory controller, it is designed for best compatibility with 1600 RAM. It also works even better with modules rated up to 2800 MHz if your motherboard and wallet can handle it. But with the 1600 modules your throughput is around 20 GB/s, more than you really need, so you won't feel the difference in normal use if you opt for higher speed RAM. Your real goal should be to reduce latency, so another strategy is to buy the higher binned RAM and underclock it so you can tighten the timings (and reduce the latency). You may be able to feel the difference then. But any decent 1600 modules will work great.

Let's do a fact checkup and let's put everything we got here into this post:

1. Okay, so 3570/3570K, no turbo, 3.4Ghz, turbo - 3.5Ghz. So we can say "it's a 3.5Ghz CPU" here.

2. Back to overclocking: I could OC 3570 to 3.9Ghz. I could OC 3570K to ~4.2Ghz with no voltage. I could OC 3570K to 4.5Ghz with little voltage.

3. Back to warranty: There is absolutely no way for anybody to know if my CPU has been overclocked if, and only if I won't increase the voltage. If I increase the voltage even by a notch, 0.025v, they would know that overclocking was the reason that it died. Basically, if I don't increase voltage and go to ~4.2Ghz, my warranty is not void. If I increase voltage, my warranty is void.

Is everything in this post correct? If not, what's wrong? If yes, please do clarify.

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I've been using/tinkering with computers since 1979 and building IBM compatibles since my 1991 AMD 386/40MHz. In that entire time, the number of CPUs I've seen damaged by overclocking, even with additional voltages, it zero. Literally zero. This is why, despite my insistence on buying motherboards, ram, graphics cards from local stores so I can immediately return/exchange defective products, I will buy my CPUs from online retailers. Because I've NEVER seen a defective CPU from the factory. I don't even read the warranty coverage on a CPU anymore because they are so thoroughly tested.

As pertains to overclocking, every CPU will have a maximum recommended voltage. With Phenom IIs, for example, it's 1.5v, but even running it at 1.55v, so long as it doesn't go over 60 degrees celsius on a constant basis, is just fine.

You really need to understand that in order to permanently damage a CPU, the decisive factor is heat, not voltage. If you have liquid nitrogen cooling, you can over-volt an AMD FX chip to 1.9v, and so long as the temps are kept from shooting past 100 degrees celsius for any extended amount of time, the CPU will be just fine. So unless you plan to run your CPU without a heatsink and continually reboot it after thermal shutdown (which would happen within seconds), you really need to relax about warranty coverage on a CPU. You are MUCH more likely to bend off a pin on a CPU (AMD) or bend pins in a socket (Intel) then you are to pooch a CPU due to too much voltage.

That partly depends on the platform. AMD FX chips like tighter timings more than Intel chips. Read a thread on memory speed/latency for the exact CPU family you are planning to buy for before you decide how much to spend/which type of memory to buy. It will save you money.

That partly depends on the platform. AMD FX chips like tighter timings more than Intel chips. Read a thread on memory speed/latency for the exact CPU family you are planning to buy for before you decide how much to spend/which type of memory to buy. It will save you money.

I've been using/tinkering with computers since 1979 and building IBM compatibles since my 1991 AMD 386/40MHz. In that entire time, the number of CPUs I've seen damaged by overclocking, even with additional voltages, it zero. Literally zero. This is why, despite my insistence on buying motherboards, ram, graphics cards from local stores so I can immediately return/exchange defective products, I will buy my CPUs from online retailers. Because I've NEVER seen a defective CPU from the factory. I don't even read the warranty coverage on a CPU anymore because they are so thoroughly tested.

As pertains to overclocking, every CPU will have a maximum recommended voltage. With Phenom IIs, for example, it's 1.5v, but even running it at 1.55v, so long as it doesn't go over 60 degrees celsius on a constant basis, is just fine.

You really need to understand that in order to permanently damage a CPU, the decisive factor is heat, not voltage. If you have liquid nitrogen cooling, you can over-volt an AMD FX chip to 1.9v, and so long as the temps are kept from shooting past 100 degrees celsius for any extended amount of time, the CPU will be just fine. So unless you plan to run your CPU without a heatsink and continually reboot it after thermal shutdown (which would happen within seconds), you really need to relax about warranty coverage on a CPU. You are MUCH more likely to bend off a pin on a CPU (AMD) or bend pins in a socket (Intel) then you are to pooch a CPU due to too much voltage.

Yeah, I read about those Samsung sticks, 1600 1.35v weren't they? And they OC'd to 2400 with 12-11-12-30 timings at 1.65v if I remember right. What kind of numbers are you getting?

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Most people can get 2400 with 11-11-11-28 1.55-1.6v. When my Xeon X3440 was running them before I started having stability issues with 8GB of ram, I had 2000 CL11 1.5v without issues. I will update with the CHVF when it shows up I should be able to push a little more out of my poor little C3 Phenom.

I am simply amazed at the tolerance and help you've gotten. Great bunch of people here, you'd have been flamed to hell on a lot of other forums by now.

That said, I never owned a k chip before the most recent purchase. Never been a heavy hardcore overclocker either but even if you're not going to overclock, take the option to make overclocking easier in the future if you think you might. The 3570k is a no brainer right now. I'm running budget 1600 ram btw.

I plugged the sucker in, turned on the ASrock tuning utility and changed the number from a 34 to a 42 and now I'm running at 4.2 which is plenty enough for any gaming and the machine's running at 42 C at idle. Voltage on that auto tuner fluctuates from 0.94 to 0.985 and I don't know if that's good or bad but it's working fine and my room is a lot cooler than it was with the 920 in here at 3.8.