I need your help in regards to installing a processor fan into a new PC and get it up and running.

You may perhaps know that I earlier bought a PC equipped with a Core i7 960 processor.

Anyway, the processor was constantly too hot and I managed to remove the processor fan.

Now it will not back on again.

So, since I found the processor to be not up to the desired speed (although smooth at running), I wanted to get a replacement for the whole thing since the topmost disc connector (which is soldered to the box and the fastening screw has become broken and will not come loose unless breaking it off) is not working anymore.

Also the Asus Rampage III motherboard is not being sold by my vendor anymore. Same goes with the GTX 480 graphics card.

I only have one such card, for my more recent purchase or purchases I would like to have two graphics cards.

For a replacement computer I wanted to have a processor with a decent capability, but still able to run my earlier Windows XP Home/Professional discs.

So I choose to buy these things in parts and mount or assemble it myself. It saves me money and I also know that not everyone else is equally well at doing this thing either (purhaps a little understandably).

The solution I chose has given me a lot of headaches. Putting the processor on the motherboard was not that difficult.

The main problem is getting the processor fan into place. When I first looked at it it came across one way of doing it.

A little later on yet another way of approach was discovered. Also the instruction leaflet which came along was not very helpful.

I had my brother who is doing the musical thing more to the point than I am myself.

We came across a YouTube video which suggests mounting the backplate for the processor fan on the rear side of the motherboard (a little surprisingly).

Also using a drop of cooling paste between the processor and fan was being suggested.

But the processor fan should in fact be mounted with the fan pointing upwards. It actually is two fans separated by two metallic boxes for the purpose of cooling.

If the fan is correctly mounted it should work. Now I encoutered a problem which I never have experienced before.

Plugging the computer to the mains and using the main on/off switch on the rear of the computer I get power to the computer.

I have put the front cover panel on but only the power cable from the power supply to the motherboard is connected.

When I push the Start-button on the motherboard the strange thing happens that the machine goes into a cycle where it constantly switches completely on and off on the motherboard until I once again use the main swith on the rear in order to turn it completely off again.

The power cable has two plug connectors for the power supply, by the way. For now I have not installed a graphics card because perhaps there may be a missing or wrong cable. It should have two cables to the graphics card and my best guess is that this cable should be connected to the motherboard (possible two connector point) and not the power supply directly.

Can anyone suggest a way to fix this problem? The processor fan came off again and I am not sure whether the processor survived this ordeal. I will be able to add a little more cooling paste if I try re-assembling the computer yet again.

On that particular m/b have you connected the 24 pin main power and ether 1, 4 pin power or 2 ,6 pin power cables .If you did this and the fan is not shorting out something on the back of the m/b and the chip is inserted correctly to the socket then I would say you may have a faulty power pack if it's in a cycle of start then shutting down as for the fan we will need to know what type of fan it is model name eg it's a Intel .
Did you get any post beeps did you have the ram inserted and does the m/b have on board graphics ?
if no on board graphic's then you will have to put some sort of graphic card in it even a old one

The important thing is that you know it is working when you connect to a monitor and keyboard and get to the BIOS when booting up by pressing DEL.

Here are the details about the purchase.

Corsair Obsidian 800D Big Tower Black

Corsair AX 1200i, 1200W PSU

ASUS Maximus V Formula, Socket-1155

Intel® Core i7-3770K Processor

ASUS GeForce GTX 660Ti 2GB PhysX CUDA (2)

Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9

Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler

So here there are three different computers, each having three different or separate motherboards, each with three different socket types, namely Socket 1366, Socket 1155 and Socket 2011 (for the Extreme machine).

There is room for a total of four memory cards, but the processor fan makes me able to squeeze one such in place only. I did not consider a liquid cooling option for this machine, so I do not have this part.

One weakness I notice when it comes to these things is a lack of beeper sound even when the small cables (like POWER and RESET) have been connected to the motherboard.

On my current Extreme machine I did not use the cooling paste, only chose to mount the processor fan on top of the processor, not even directly connected - there is space between. Still it does not get to hot, but the fan is slow to come up to speed when starting up, making it necessary for me to enter the BIOS and wait for a little.

Edit: There is in fact a self test button on the power supply. However I have not tested this button with the power on yet.

Perhaps I will need to pull the processor from the motherboard to see whether it is still turning on and off when turning the power on. Also the display which probably should be showing the presence or existence of the processor is not showing anything either.

Bluestar your m/b does have on board graphic so no prob there you say your using 1600 ram and only 1 stick of ram no prob there if you don't use dual channel .now you say there is a gap between the cpu and the heat sink !

This is a big problem all heat sinks should NOT have a gap ever .
Even if your fan takes time to spin up the heat sink will absorb heat until it spins up .
From a cold start it mite take a few minute to get hot enough to turn the fan on but if you have a gap it will only take 20 seconds or less to burn out with a Pentium 4 you had approx. 45 seconds newer chips can burn out extremely quickly .
You may have damaged the chip .

I will now look at your heat sink to see if there is a prob with it as it should have sat on the chip no gaps give me 5 and I see

Bluestar I've looked at the heat sink and i'm not liking it for your m/b to big as you m/b has big water cooled heat sink on one side and mite make it hard to mount.
I hope you did not mount it the YouTube way with fan facing up .
Did you use the SecuFirm2 mounting system ? the one with 4 legs and not the one in the picture at the web site with two legs ?

I am thinking that the reason it is shutting down is because it is over heating because the heat sink was not firmly touching the CPU

Can you explain more on how you actually mounted this heat sink and what was the problem , was it the water cooled heat sink on the m/b ? was it getting in the way ?

Bluestar after reading the manual I am thinking you got the wrong heat sink as it does say a Intel 1155 heat sink or a water cooled heat sink and i'm shore the water air cooled heat sink on the board must have water cooling kit attached as this could also be overheating causing it to go into a cyclic shut down restart

I've asked another user called VBobier to come over to this thread and help as he is building a machine with a Asus board that is simular to the one you are trying to get working and shed some light on your problem

1st all cpus need heatsink compound between the cpu and the heatsink/waterblock, it helps heat flow from the cpu to the heatsink and hopefully you have not damaged the cpu any,

2nd make sure the cpu heatsink is securely attached tightly to the cpu with some heatsink compound as described earlier, a thin line of heatsink compound going across the cpu(not diagonally and in one pass of the heatsink compounds tube) will do, between the cpu and the heatsink, you don't want too much or too little,

3rd you need to hook up the following: a 4pin/8pin cable that is not marked pci-e that comes from the power supply(psu),

4th that 660 video card will need power from the power supply, for that you need to hookup one or two 6/8pin cables that come from the psu(one does this for all video cards that have power connectors, the amount of cables to be hooked up depends on the design of the card itself, if there is only 1 power connector, then only 1 cable is needed, if there are 2 power connectors there, then 2 cables are needed, some cards actually need 3 cables but that is rare),

5th make sure the fan power cable on the cpu is connected to the motherboard if it's a 3/4pin type fan or to the psu, if the fan has a molex connector(a power connector almost as wide as your thumb that has 4pins and larger than a 3/4pin cable, the 3/4ths in this case is not a fraction, I just mean the cable might have 4 pins max and is compatible with a 3pin fan connector on the motherboard, just watch how the cable hooks up, all cables are keyed so that they'll only connect one way, but fan cables aren't as well designed, so you have to make sure the part that looks sort of like a tongue goes between the notches on the cable),

6th make sure the video card is firmly seated in the slot and is level going across the slot,

7th make sure the video cable from the monitor is connected to one of the dvi ports on the card,

8th make sure the 24pin main power cable and the wall power cables are firmly attached to the motherboard(24pin) and to the wall and to the psu(wall power cable).

First, thank you both for your input and replies. Please note that I have not read it all in details yet, however.

My Extreme machine in fact has a Noctua fan or cooler installed as well, but for Socket 2011 (Noctua NH-D14 SE 2011). The fan is pointing upwards, because otherwise it would not only take away space for the memory cards - four on each side of the processsor (CPU), eight in all - but would also make it impossible to put a graphics card in the topmost expansion slot as well.

Whether or not this machine came with the same or similar backplate (I think it is called so) I do not in fact remember. I will have to unplug here and pull open the right sidecover which now is in place in order to check this out. This is the main reason for the plasic cover on the right side which when opened or removed shows the bottom side of the motherboard where the processor is located.

When assembling this machine, I used the way I found out it most likely should be after also reading through the enclosed leaflet.

The most recent purchase of the 1155 Socket based system introduced me to this backplate system. It is not that difficult to do at the right moment when you first know how to do it.

The question is then - if the CPU has the label for the text pointing the usual reading way when the machine is up and standing (and you not have to read it from the rear or behind the machine, the text on the bottom of the backplate really (reading the Socket type names) really should be placed similarly.
Anyway, the CPU can only be inserted in two directions and because of a lack of symbols I checked the CPU pin connectors for this. In any case the text on the processor vanished below the cooling paste (one middle sized droplet at the middle).

There are four long, thin screws that you put up from the bottom (back side of the motherboard), four plastic holders and four star screws on the front side of the motherboard. Also two arced bars which are having screw holes marked A B C for the three different socket types (B for Socket 1155).

Or perhaps there is more like to two screw holes. Two of them (I do not remember whether it is A and B or B and C) are really one hole only. You put these screws on the motherboard (after installing the CPU first, of course), then attach the fan with feathered screws (quite long) which sits at the middle point of the arced bars.

Also, whether or not you choose to install the fan pointing directly in front of you or rather straight up, these bars have to be installed in two different or separate angles (90 degrees) if doing so. In any case they should go in on opposite sides with the arcs going upwards in the middle and the pin for connecting the middle screws pointing upwards for this.

But when you happpen to encounter an additional unexpected problem you start thinking how far back you should go at reversing the installation process before starting assembling the whole thing once again.

As mentioned earlier, I could very well could pull the processor again and only test with only the motherboard. If the light diod for the CPU lights up in red, it either means that I blew it or something else is not put together correctly (more likely based on earlier experiences I have had).

If I should succeed at reassembling the CPU and cooler, I probably would encounter yet another problem when it comes to the graphics cards. I am able to find only one yellow cable for each card and each of the cards are having two 3*3 pin connectors. On the motherboard there are one 2*4 connector plus one 2*2 connector marked EATX12V_1 and EATX12V_2, respectively. These are located at the top rear left when the machine is up and standing. The main power connector is located at the middle, front in the same way.

And perhaps I really should not tell, but I also have the Corsair H100 Hydro Series CPU Cooler lying somewhere around. Checking with the pages for my vendor, it says it Socket 775/1155/1156/1366/2011 compatible...

First, thank you both for your input and replies. Please note that I have not read it all in details yet, however.

You're welcome.

My Extreme machine in fact has a Noctua fan or cooler installed as well, but for Socket 2011 (Noctua NH-D14 SE 2011). The fan is pointing upwards, because otherwise it would not only take away space for the memory cards - four on each side of the processor (CPU), eight in all - but would also make it impossible to put a graphics card in the topmost expansion slot as well.

Heat rises, so the fan shoving air upwards does not seem like a problem.

Whether or not this machine came with the same or similar backplate (I think it is called so) I do not in fact remember. I will have to unplug here and pull open the right side cover which now is in place in order to check this out. This is the main reason for the plastic cover on the right side which when opened or removed shows the bottom side of the motherboard where the processor is located.

The plastic cover/hatch is really cosmetic, My HAF-932 case has no cover.

When assembling this machine, I used the way I found out it most likely should be after also reading through the enclosed leaflet.

Sounds good.

The most recent purchase of the 1155 Socket based system introduced me to this backplate system. It is not that difficult to do at the right moment when you first know how to do it.

True.

The question is then - if the CPU has the label for the text pointing the usual reading way when the machine is up and standing (and you not have to read it from the rear or behind the machine, the text on the bottom of the backplate really (reading the Socket type names) really should be placed similarly.
Anyway, the CPU can only be inserted in two directions and because of a lack of symbols I checked the CPU pin connectors for this. In any case the text on the processor vanished below the cooling paste (one middle sized droplet at the middle).

Intel Cpus are keyed so that they'll fit in the socket one way and so the clamp will close correctly, you can safely ignore the text on the cpu, it's just there to id the cpu really.

There are four long, thin screws that you put up from the bottom (back side of the motherboard), four plastic holders and four star screws on the front side of the motherboard. Also two arced bars which are having screw holes marked A B C for the three different socket types (B for Socket 1155).

Sounds organized.

Or perhaps there is more like to two screw holes. Two of them (I do not remember whether it is A and B or B and C) are really one hole only. You put these screws on the motherboard (after installing the CPU first, of course), then attach the fan with feathered screws (quite long) which sits at the middle point of the arced bars.

As long as you follow the instructions that the heatsink maker provided, if any, then you'll know or should know what means what and where everything is supposed to do.

Also, whether or not you choose to install the fan pointing directly in front of you or rather straight up, these bars have to be installed in two different or separate angles (90 degrees) if doing so. In any case they should go in on opposite sides with the arcs going upwards in the middle and the pin for connecting the middle screws pointing upwards for this.

Having the fan on this tower cooler facing up is ok.

But when you happen to encounter an additional unexpected problem you start thinking how far back you should go at reversing the installation process before starting assembling the whole thing once again.

As mentioned earlier, I could very well could pull the processor again and only test with only the motherboard. If the light diode for the CPU lights up in red, it either means that I blew it or something else is not put together correctly (more likely based on earlier experiences I have had).

I wouldn't do that, as the motherboard will be expecting a cpu to be there.

If I should succeed at reassembling the CPU and cooler, I probably would encounter yet another problem when it comes to the graphics cards. I am able to find only one yellow cable for each card and each of the cards are having two 3*3 pin connectors. On the motherboard there are one 2*4 connector plus one 2*2 connector marked EATX12V_1 and EATX12V_2, respectively. These are located at the top rear left when the machine is up and standing. The main power connector is located at the middle, front in the same way.

What brand and size in wattage is your psu? You may have a psu that could be too old, generic psus are not good and are not worth the cost.

And perhaps I really should not tell, but I also have the Corsair H100 Hydro Series CPU Cooler lying somewhere around. Checking with the pages for my vendor, it says it Socket 775/1155/1156/1366/2011 compatible...

I'd use that H100 if your case can handle it, if you use this H100, get 2 Delta 120x120x25mm 113cfm 3400rpm fans(you won't regret it, they are a bit noisy, but you'll get used to that as their not hard on the ears), put the fans next to each other between the H100 radiator and the case, with the airflow pointed up(look for 2 small arrows on the side of the fans for the direction of airflow).

But is it easier to install? Probably not so.

If you use their screws? No, If you buy at least eight 6-32 5/16" long machine screws and eight or more self tapping case/fan screws you'll have more work initially, but installing the whole H100 and fans as one piece will be a bit easier, at least once you have 2 screws into the fans and this time diagonally, then apply the other 6 screws, it helps.What is BSGRobotech-Saga-WikiSW-wiki

Vic's list is pretty well spot on. Only one thing to add - remove the old heatsink compound from the processor before you add new stuff, carefully wipe it off with a paper towel, then clean with an alcohol wipe.

As Vic says processors are keyed so can only go into the socket one way round, with the locking lever in the released position the processor should drop in quite easily, if not very gently give it a slight wiggle so it line up properly and drop into place. The last AMD I dropped in sat down with a very satisfying clunk when I gave it a gentle nudge with my thumb nail, and I would expect Intel's finest to do much the same.

Powering up a motherboard without a CPU in it is most definitely a "bad idea" and should be avoided.Bob Smith
Member of Seti PIPPS (Pluto is a Planet Protest Society)
Somewhere in the (un)known Universe?

Ah, there is another possibility for the on-off cycling....quite a silly one which my partner managed, after they had also put on the front panel of a case. The reset switch/button had become jammed 'on' and that caused it to 'reset', ad infinitum. A few years before that, a friend had somehow managed to make the wrong connections to the reset switch connections on the m/b, bridging the '+' connection for the switch with a '-' connection for something else - it gave the same effect, which is what set me looking at things related to the reset switch.