If you are a teen, the most magical time of the year is just around the corner. Every summer, thousands of cailíní and buachaillí from cities and towns across the country pack their bags, hop on a bus and make their way towards far-flung pockets of the island, with high hopes of getting the shift. Whether it’s Kerry, Galway or Donegal, going to the Gaeltacht for three weeks every summer has been a rite of passage of Irish teenagers for decades.

You’d imagine spending most of a month tucked up in some of the quietest and tranquil corners of the country would be a bad buzz for most teens but it’s more popular than ever, with the numbers attending on the increase in recent years. Irish college seems to exist in its own twilight zone that remains unaffected by the passing years, trends or technology. So what can the eager students expect in the summer of 2019? Exactly the same as we experienced in 1999 or 1979. Things like… 1) Freedom

The thought of three glorious weeks free from the shackles of tyrannical parents is enough to seduce even the most reluctant teenager out of their bedroom and into the wilds of Connemara. I still remember the hysterical excitement that my 15-year-old self felt arriving at Dingle without any parents, but critically, with all my best friends in tow. The whole summer laid out before us, there were boys to be kissed and modh coinniollach to be learned. It was a small, sweet taste of independence from mum and dad, and we grabbed it with both hands.

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For the first few evenings, the ceilis are nerve-wracking fright nights. You don’t know the steps, you think the music is naff and you are waiting for that guy from Tramore you have your eye on to ask you to be his dance partner. But everybody is up to speed within a few days. You are giving it socks to Trasna na dTonnta, jigging and reeling your ass off and Amhran na bhFiann is something you take very seriously now, thank you very much.

3) Getting the shift

Teenagers kissing

Forget cupla focal and preparing properly for the Junior or Leaving Cert, the main objective of going to the Gaeltacht is to get the shift. Without exception, every student will experience the pleasure of a sneaky smooch down a country laneway, hoping you don’t get caught by a nosy muinteoir or a local farmer and his vicious sheepdog.

4) The Bean An Tí's Food

Teacups with steam (Image: Getty, Cindy Loughridge)

You can forget your paninis, avocados and soy lattes, the only food you’ll be getting in the Gaeltacht is max-strength tea, ham sandwiches, and vegetables boiled beyond recognition. The highlight of my culinary experience in Irish college were the days when we were served up a mystery sponge and custard at teatime, I lived for that custard. Of course, if you’re a cailín cliste, you will have stocked up on enough Twix bars to keep you going for at least two weeks.

5) Sundays

Those aforementioned parents that previously were the bane of your life all of a sudden don’t seem quite as awful. You won’t admit it but you might even miss them a bit. Which is why when Sunday rolls around you are eternally grateful when they whisk you off for a carvery lunch at the local pub, and you can happily talk English with no fear of being summoned to…

6) The principal’s office

Everybody will end up in the principal’s office at some point because they were ag caint as Bearla, and it’s a terrifying prospect. I was forced to phone home for being a cailín dana, but as my parents were on holidays, my brother picked up, laughed down the phone and promptly hung up.

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The plan is that everyone is going to sneak out of their houses and have a big party, which never materialises. But you do have mega craic at the last ceili, cry a river for the new friends you’ve made and make solemn promises to meet up really soon. Maybe that won’t materialise either, but there’s a little bit of magic made in those three weeks, and the happy memories still remain even though the ability to speak Irish may not.

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