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The modern bikini

The modern bikini design was first introduced in May 1946 by fashion designer Jacques Heim, who owned a beach shop in the French Riviera resort town of Cannes. Heim began advertising a two-piece swimsuit that he named the “Atome,” the world’s “smallest bathing suit”. The bottom of his design was just large enough to cover the wearer’s navel. To promote his new design, Heim hired skywriters to fly above the Mediterranean resort advertising the Atome as “the world’s smallest bathing suit.”

Louis Réard, a French mechanical engineer, was running his mother’s lingerie business near Les Folies Bergères in Paris. He noticed women on St. Tropez beaches rolling up the edges of their swimsuits to get a better tan which inspired him to produce his new design. Not to be outdone by Heim, he hired his own skywriters three weeks later to fly over the French Riviera advertising his design as “smaller than the smallest bathing suit in the world.”

Réard’s design was a string bikini consisting of four triangles made from only 30 square inches (194 cm2) of fabric printed with a newspaper pattern. When Réard sought a model to wear his design at its debut presentation, none of the usual models would wear the suit, so he hired 19 year old nude dancer Micheline Bernardini from the Casino de Paris to model it. He introduced it to the media and public in Paris on July 5, 1946 at Piscine Molitor, a public pool in Paris. It was a shocking swimsuit design that for the first time revealed the wearer’s navel.

Heim’s design was the first to be worn on the beach, but the name given by Réard is the one that stuck. Despite significant social resistance, Réard received more than 50,000 letters from fans. He also initiated a bold ad campaign that told the public a two-piece swimsuit was not a genuine bikini “unless it could be pulled through a wedding ring.” According to Kevin Jones, curator and fashion historian at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, “Réard was ahead of his time by about 15 to 20 years. Only women in the vanguard, mostly upper-class European women embraced it.”