Domaine Clos de Tart

Sylvain Pitiot doesn’t seem like a man who would be easily ruffled. Relaxed, casual and not trying to sell his wares too hard, he was in London for a tasting and gala dinner to celebrate British wine merchant Corney & Barrow’s success in becoming the UK Agent and distributor for Clos de Tart.

Sylvain let the wines do the talking by and large, giving the audience a very low key overview of each vintage and of the philosophy of this ancient domaine. Founded in 1141 and tended for several hundred years by Cistercian nuns, there have only been two owners since, the estate being acquired in 1789 by the Marey-Monge family, and then by current owners Mommessin in 1932. Three owners in almost 900 years is remarkable, even by Burgundian standards.

The walled vineyard of Clos de Tart is a 7.5 hectare site and one of Morey Saint Denis’ five Grand Crus, sitting between Bonnes Mares and Clos des Lambrays. It is a monopole, with a single owner, and its is cultivated on near organic principles. Vines are mostly more than 50 years old, and Sylvain says that the estate’s second wine, La Forge de Tart, is composed of "young vines less than 25 years old." With a twinkle in his eye he adds, "I suppose that’s not so young for California. But for Burgundy..."

Notes de dégustation

Robert Parker : 93-95 points

"The 2009 Clos de Tart emerges from the glass with huge, ripe fruit, incense and spices. It is a rich, exotic wine that continues to take shape in the glass, filling out its broad frame very nicely. The blend from the bottom of the hill is more overt in its fruit, while the parcels that sit higher on the slope add considerable freshness and vibrancy. The combination is truly striking. The marriage of fruit and imposing structure is impressive. I imagine the 2009 will be a spectacular wine for many years, but it will require considerable patience. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044." (2010)