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What is the maximum amount of power can this motor handle continuously? Just curious what u guys have given it

The motor can handle continuously only up to few kw but you don't ride continuously in the same load unless you are on a laboratory track.
From few kw up to 12kw in peaks.
Usually up to 8kw should be ok but it depends.
More kw more heat you generate. Every application is different, wheel size, motor kv, controller, voltage.

What is the maximum amount of power can this motor handle continuously? Just curious what u guys have given it

As noted above, it depends on several factors.

You will need to balance motor winding, Battery voltage, Battery/Phase current and wheel diameter to find the optimal (Most efficient) utilization of power in these motors, but assuming you do find a "sweet spot" combination of these four factors, then they should be able to handle ~3000W continuous and up to 12,000W Peak for very short durations, without cooling modifications. With Ferrofluid and hub sinks, you can probably get 20%-30% more power out of them continuous.

The Following video was done with a 3T winding, at 117V and 150A (battery) (16,500 Watts) in a 21.5" Diameter Tire:

KLS7218S,24V-72V,200A,SINUSOIDAL BRUSHLESS MOTOR CONTROLLER $199.00 2.80 lbs
KLS7212S,24V-72V,120A,SINUSOIDAL BRUSHLESS MOTOR CONTROLLER $179.00 1.70 lbs
Sabvoton up to 95V 2,2kg ~210usd 80A, 100A, 150A versions (this is big controller)
There is one widely used controller (made by RU) with smart display but it is expensive (three times price as one of the above controllers)

Infineon ~70usd (some weakest and cheapest of above but still ok for the motor); there are more expensive Infineons up to 200usd and more and these are very good and popular too.

I'm using Sabvoton 72150 version (72v nominal, 150A battery amps). It is heavy, has better torque from start compared to Kelly and Infineon controllers, but it is big and heaviest of all above controllers.

There are more and more quality suitable controllers but above ones are most widely used.

Keep in mind that safely you can push into to the motor up to 70A battery and about 150A phase. Those digits can vary 20A maybe 30A to higher side depending on motor winding and bike&rider weight, before you start to get into overheat issues. It's not like controller has 150A and you push all them and it's ok; no it is not, the motor will get hot and will get less efficient end less powerful and magnets will get damaged in the long run unless overheat sensor will limit Amps before all this happens.

So if you buy most powerful controller you won't still be able to set it to max; so you might consider power vs weight vs size. But you can't go wrong with any of these above controllers unless it does not fit into you ebike frame due being too big.

Another important factor is to choose controller with temp sensor so that it would push fewer amps when a motor gets hot; it is called -
thermall management or similarly in various controllers.

All my mentioned controllers are not high end but best one of these are considered Russian controller. But anyways these are not high-end controllers too. Just regular controllers for masses and they are very good what they are and do.

And another thing is to consiller so called Field weakening (FOC); it is called variuos names by different manufacturers, but keep in mind that Kelly does not have it. FOC is need to get more speed but when it is actived motors gets less efficiant, - more wasted energy.

Example situation:
You got 72v battery, got mxus 3T with 17'' mc rim; you can reach max 80km/h and after FOC is activated you can reach 95km/h. yuo get hot motor and even more heat. If you hot high volatge battery you might even not need it.

Another thing to consider Kelly vs Sabvoton. Kelly cost a little bit less is smaller, less torque but only from start and it's Bluetooth adapter for your smartphone is only 8usd, on another hand Sabvoton Bluetooth adapter is 25usd and if you ship it separately after you buy controller, from CN, they ask 25usd for shipping, so 50usd overall, which is overkill, I can't find cheaper for a few years now.
Also Kelly has better usd graphic interface through PC and phone but Sabvoton is ok too. Infineon's GUI (the ones which have it) is good too.

If you go for most stealthy ebike than small Kelly is the way to go
If cheapest - some cheapest version Infineon 60usd
If most powerfull and cheapest - Sabvoton
If most powerfull and most expensvive Ru controllers

Not sure if you are aware but if you take interest about controllers you show know about this:
If you seek most of the motor than later on you will be able to upgrade it by additional colling by putting radiators around hub 60usd and ferro fluid (20 or 30 usd) which is injected inside motor, few ml. All this upgrade helps to shed heat but you need it only when you overpower/generate waste heat in first place. You don't push too much amps and you don't need this upgrade.

KLS7218S,24V-72V,200A,SINUSOIDAL BRUSHLESS MOTOR CONTROLLER $199.00 2.80 lbs
KLS7212S,24V-72V,120A,SINUSOIDAL BRUSHLESS MOTOR CONTROLLER $179.00 1.70 lbs
Sabvoton up to 95V 2,2kg ~210usd 80A, 100A, 150A versions (this is big controller)
There is one widely used controller (made by RU) with smart display but it is expensive (three times price as one of the above controllers)

Infineon ~70usd (some weakest and cheapest of above but still ok for the motor); there are more expensive Infineons up to 200usd and more and these are very good and popular too.

I'm using Sabvoton 72150 version (72v nominal, 150A battery amps). It is heavy, has better torque from start compared to Kelly and Infineon controllers, but it is big and heaviest of all above controllers.

There are more and more quality suitable controllers but above ones are most widely used.

Keep in mind that safely you can push into to the motor up to 70A battery and about 150A phase. Those digits can vary 20A maybe 30A to higher side depending on motor winding and bike&rider weight, before you start to get into overheat issues. It's not like controller has 150A and you push all them and it's ok; no it is not, the motor will get hot and will get less efficient end less powerful and magnets will get damaged in the long run unless overheat sensor will limit Amps before all this happens.

So if you buy most powerful controller you won't still be able to set it to max; so you might consider power vs weight vs size. But you can't go wrong with any of these above controllers unless it does not fit into you ebike frame due being too big.

Another important factor is to choose controller with temp sensor so that it would push fewer amps when a motor gets hot; it is called -
thermall management or similarly in various controllers.

All my mentioned controllers are not high end but best one of these are considered Russian controller. But anyways these are not high-end controllers too. Just regular controllers for masses and they are very good what they are and do.

And another thing is to consiller so called Field weakening (FOC); it is called variuos names by different manufacturers, but keep in mind that Kelly does not have it. FOC is need to get more speed but when it is actived motors gets less efficiant, - more wasted energy.

Example situation:
You got 72v battery, got mxus 3T with 17'' mc rim; you can reach max 80km/h and after FOC is activated you can reach 95km/h. yuo get hot motor and even more heat. If you hot high volatge battery you might even not need it.

Another thing to consider Kelly vs Sabvoton. Kelly cost a little bit less is smaller, less torque but only from start and it's Bluetooth adapter for your smartphone is only 8usd, on another hand Sabvoton Bluetooth adapter is 25usd and if you ship it separately after you buy controller, from CN, they ask 25usd for shipping, so 50usd overall, which is overkill, I can't find cheaper for a few years now.
Also Kelly has better usd graphic interface through PC and phone but Sabvoton is ok too. Infineon's GUI (the ones which have it) is good too.

If you go for most stealthy ebike than small Kelly is the way to go
If cheapest - some cheapest version Infineon 60usd
If most powerfull and cheapest - Sabvoton
If most powerfull and most expensvive Ru controllers

Not sure if you are aware but if you take interest about controllers you show know about this:
If you seek most of the motor than later on you will be able to upgrade it by additional colling by putting radiators around hub 60usd and ferro fluid (20 or 30 usd) which is injected inside motor, few ml. All this upgrade helps to shed heat but you need it only when you overpower/generate waste heat in first place. You don't push too much amps and you don't need this upgrade.

My friends have the MXUS motor, therefore, I know a lot about the motor. I tried few times the motor MXUS T3 V3 in 17 with different settings dialled in.
One of them is using Sabvoton too, and another is using Kelly 7218 and Kelly 72300. There is a difference in starting torque from a stand still; Sabvoton is more torque, but Sabvoton is bulky - 2,2kg.

45mm MXUS V3 in 17'' mc rim with 90A battery and 180A phase is very fun but only from 30km/h and faster and heats up very quick if you max thorrttle it in a forest trail, but on road it is ok. From standstill T3 is little bit vague therefore slow movement in a forest in the soft ground will be share heat generation.

If you need to move slow than 4T is better due less heat generated when going slow, but it must be less fun after you reach ~40km/h and faster. I'm talking about 17 and 18 inch mc rims. If use bigger rims then less torque from tyre to road and more heat expected. The more you overpower the more waste heat.

I like big wheels very much overall but I plan to choose 17'' or 18'' diameter rear rim for my new hub rim, because a hub with smaller rim picks up speed faster, a hub in the smaller wheel has a better mechanical advantage compared with a bigger wheel, therefore, less heat generated and more dynamic it is.

One exmample; two ebikes; motor the same - MXUS T3; controller settings the same - 80A/170A, battery the same - 72v. All the same except rear rim.

Ebike with 17'' rim will be faster to reach max 80km/h speed from a stand still. Aprox.
Motor with 19'' rim will reach higher speed ie max 95km/h but it will take longer to reach even 80km/h compared with the motor in a smaller rim (the max speed the motor reached in 17'' rim). Aprox.

So if you go mc 19'' or 24 bicyle rim go with 4T or more turns (slower motor).

But don't overthink whichever you choose. Anyone wants different than they choose after some time.

My friends have the MXUS motor, therefore, I know a lot about the motor. I tried few times the motor MXUS T3 V3 in 17 with different settings dialled in.
One of them is using Sabvoton too, and another is using Kelly 7218 and Kelly 72300. There is a difference in starting torque from a stand still; Sabvoton is more torque, but Sabvoton is bulky - 2,2kg.

45mm MXUS V3 in 17'' mc rim with 90A battery and 180A phase is very fun but only from 30km/h and faster and heats up very quick if you max thorrttle it in a forest trail, but on road it is ok. From standstill T3 is little bit vague therefore slow movement in a forest in the soft ground will be share heat generation.

If you need to move slow than 4T is better due less heat generated when going slow, but it must be less fun after you reach ~40km/h and faster. I'm talking about 17 and 18 inch mc rims. If use bigger rims then less torque from tyre to road and more heat expected. The more you overpower the more waste heat.

I like big wheels very much overall but I plan to choose 17'' or 18'' diameter rear rim for my new hub rim, because a hub with smaller rim picks up speed faster, a hub in the smaller wheel has a better mechanical advantage compared with a bigger wheel, therefore, less heat generated and more dynamic it is.

One exmample; two ebikes; motor the same - MXUS T3; controller settings the same - 80A/170A, battery the same - 72v. All the same except rear rim.

Ebike with 17'' rim will be faster to reach max 80km/h speed from a stand still. Aprox.
Motor with 19'' rim will reach higher speed ie max 95km/h but it will take longer to reach even 80km/h compared with the motor in a smaller rim (the max speed the motor reached in 17'' rim). Aprox.

So if you go mc 19'' or 24 bicyle rim go with 4T or more turns (slower motor).

But don't overthink whichever you choose. Anyone wants different than they choose after some time.

Hi thx for your great advice again..sadly i couldnt get that small of a wheel. I got the 26inch mxus v3 turbo 3T for my mountain bike.

That's no problem. If you will want more thrust sometime later without changing hub you will be able to change rim to a smaller one and cost is a matter of acquiring a rim and certain length of spokes. Aliexpress has whatever length you need and some sellers even do custom lengths.

For ex. starting thrusts, approx:
with 26'' 52kg
with 24'' 62kg
with 19'' 68kg
with 17'' 72kg
etc.. as if you/bike would be push or pulled with such force.

That's no problem. If you will want more thrust sometime later without changing hub you will be able to change rim to a smaller one and cost is a matter of acquiring a rim and certain length of spokes. Aliexpress has whatever length you need and some sellers even do custom lengths.

For ex. starting thrusts, approx:
with 26'' 52kg
with 24'' 62kg
with 19'' 68kg
with 17'' 72kg
etc.. as if you/bike would be push or pulled with such force.

Sorry...what do mean by thrust?
Could you send me a link at aliexpress?
Thanks

Thrust is the force which propels your ebike forward. Thrust is a propelling force, the reaction of the applied force according to Newton's 3rd law. You can imagine this as if someone would push your bike from behind when you hit the throttle.

Just enter SPOKES / EBIKE SPOKES in Aliexpress.com and you will see lots of sellers with a various spoke lengths and thickness.

If you will decide to get smaller rim than:
- firstly decide rim size (24'', mc 19'', mc 18'', 17'') you want. Note! Not all mc rims are suitable. You want not too wide (1.2 - 1.6 inch width) and much prefer an aluminium rim and with not too big nipple holes for the spokes, you plan to use.
- secondly, find out what length and thickness spokes you require according to your to be acquired rim (Google: spokes calculator)

If you truly will later decide to build a new wheel for yourself then look for more examples of what forum members have chosen for their rear wheels. In the meanwhile why not to test your current 26'', it still rides and still fun, just keep an eye on hub temperature.

Thrust is the force which propels your ebike forward. Thrust is a propelling force, the reaction of the applied force according to Newton's 3rd law. You can imagine this as if someone would push your bike from behind when you hit the throttle.

Just enter SPOKES / EBIKE SPOKES in Aliexpress.com and you will see lots of sellers with a various spoke lengths and thickness.

If you will decide to get smaller rim than:
- firstly decide rim size (24'', mc 19'', mc 18'', 17'') you want. Note! Not all mc rims are suitable. You want not too wide (1.2 - 1.6 inch width) and much prefer an aluminium rim and with not too big nipple holes for the spokes, you plan to use.
- secondly, find out what length and thickness spokes you require according to your to be acquired rim (Google: spokes calculator)

If you truly will later decide to build a new wheel for yourself then look for more examples of what forum members have chosen for their rear wheels. In the meanwhile why not to test your current 26'', it still rides and still fun, just keep an eye on hub temperature.

Ok i see...thx
However i do not see any temperature wire coming from the mxus motor. I do have a cycle analyst. Id like to be able to see the temperature if possible

Thanks for the shipping quote..i think ill pick one up soon. At the moment i have an 18fet sinewave 72v 2000w controller it sometimes runs perfect with the motor. But at random times..the motor sputters. It comes and goes. Sometimes the sputtering will smooth out and stop as i go faster but other times not. I checked for loose connections but all seems ok. Not sure if other mxus owners had sputtering issues before?

Thanks for the shipping quote..i think ill pick one up soon. At the moment i have an 18fet sinewave 72v 2000w controller it sometimes runs perfect with the motor. But at random times..the motor sputters. It comes and goes. Sometimes the sputtering will smooth out and stop as i go faster but other times not. I checked for loose connections but all seems ok. Not sure if other mxus owners had sputtering issues before?

Thanks for the shipping quote..i think ill pick one up soon. At the moment i have an 18fet sinewave 72v 2000w controller it sometimes runs perfect with the motor. But at random times..the motor sputters. It comes and goes. Sometimes the sputtering will smooth out and stop as i go faster but other times not. I checked for loose connections but all seems ok. Not sure if other mxus owners had sputtering issues before?

Motor sputtering is usually indicative of a bad hall sensor...

Yes i also thought that..so i switched the hall connectors since there are 2. My motor is new. If it was a bad hall, could the motor work flawlessly at times and other times not?

A bad connection in the wiring from the controller to the halls would do exactly that, though it's unlikely both sets of sensors would be bad at the motor end (either wires or sensors).

The bad connection would be intermittent, and so would do exactly what you are seeing. It could be anywhere from teh contact faces in the connector, to the crimp or solder of wire to contact, to anwyhere along the wire from the contact to the cotnroller circuit board inside.