An urbanist's guide to Tehran

Carry cash, take the metro and always look at people's feet – our blogger of the week Araz Fazaeli, who lives in Paris but runs the street style blog
Tehran Times with a team in Iran, offers his tips about how to make the most of the capital

How long have you lived in your city?Long enough to be considered a native, but not so long that I can no longer appreciate its unique charms. I grew up in Tehran, and I've been going back at least once a year since I left as a teenager.

What's the best way to get around?If you want the easiest way, I'd argue that Tehran offers the most convenient (and cheapest) private taxi services of any metropolis. However, if you want to get to know the city and its people, the metro is the way to go. Look at the floor of the car: people's shoes will show how many different types of social classes are living in Tehran. The metro can take you from modern Tehran to old Tehran, where you can see the main bazaar and different museums, such as the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art and the National Jewelry Museum, and Golestan Palace.

What does your city do better than any other in the world?Perhaps it's an obvious answer from somebody like me, but I believe it's wearing the hijab. Not to overlook the famous Iranian hospitality (which is also quite noticeable), but I think the way Iranian women use the appropriate Islamic hijab to make fashion and personal statements is very impressive.

If you could change one thing about your city, what would it be?Its congested traffic. Sometimes it's not uncommon to spend an hour in the car just to make a 2km trip. On the bright side, though, you can always listen to a complete album or two on the way.

What one item is indispensable to life in your city?As much as cash as you can safely carry. Credit and debit cards are not as widely used or accepted as most other places around the world, due to the economic sanctions. The prices only seem high – a loaf of bread will probably cost you about 6,000 rials, which may sound insane until you realise that is 20 cents in USD. We have bank notes all the way up to 500,000 rials.

Tell us a secret about your city that only a resident would know.Tehran has an exceptional nightlife!