I believe that you mean a newer P+. I'm pretty sure that the older ones had lower center posts. How many and what size o-rings do you have under the battery? And does the battery jiggle at all?

But yes, I agree that a longer contact screw would solve all of your problems.

I think that jasl might have gotten one of the very very very few P+18500s that has a problem. Mine has never had issues, and the only time that you will ever have to fiddle with it is when you break it down to clean it. It's definitely easier than rebuilding a coil. Have no fear, SuperT mods always surpass expectations!

I've two 1/16th inch rubber washers under the battery and its a perfect fit. No rattle at all and no force required to fully seat the top cap. Also bear in mind that I got it from the classifieds and it didn't come with any o-rings or washers, so I don't really have any idea what size the large v/s small sizes are.

And for the record, I have no complaints at all. It just took me a bit to figure out what I needed to get it working the way I wanted to work. I'm sure if I had the original bag-o-parts I'd have had it in a minute or two.

I've two 1/16th inch rubber washers under the battery and its a perfect fit. No rattle at all and no force required to fully seat the top cap. Also bear in mind that I got it from the classifieds and it didn't come with any o-rings or washers, so I don't really have any idea what size the large v/s small sizes are.

And for the record, I have no complaints at all. It just took me a bit to figure out what I needed to get it working the way I wanted to work. I'm sure if I had the original bag-o-parts I'd have had it in a minute or two.

I believe that the o-ring sizes that David includes are 0.10 and 0.07. If you PM me your address, I'll search through my bag of extras (if I can find em) and send you some.

It's kind of a toss up, the 1600mAh i would recommend over the 2000mAh for all mechanical as it holds higher voltage under load, but a kicked device which draws down to 3.3V, you may see additional run time with the 2000mAh.

Wish I could find the graph where he tested the two. From what I remember it was mostly neck and neck from 4.2volts down to 3.3v with the 1600 holding a higher voltage under load. Just before the 3.3v "cutoff" point, the 2000 mah battery pulled ahead. The rest of the 400 mah difference was under 3.3v, which is mostly unusable in mechanical mods. To be honest, most people would have changed the battery way before then (I know I swap mine out well before it reaches that point).

Just a further note - the difference between the two is so negligible you could probably do a blind test between the two and you wouldn't be able to tell which one was which.

David: "In my load testing, the AW IMR 1600mAh outperforms the AW IMR 2000mAh and will work better with the LR coils. The 1600mAh holds higher voltage under load then the 2000mAh so i'd recommend it over the 2000mAh version. How thick is the 2 cent fuse, it may work with the IMR 1600mAh if you run one thin oring in the bottom of the chamber, don't know, i've never tried. Though you don't need a protection circuit with the IMR chemistry.

It's really easy to get sucked into total mAh, but what matters is useable mah under load and how much higher it holds voltage under load:

In this chart you can see how the 1600mAh holds up to two tenths higher voltage under load then the 2000mAh version"