As long as your car is not slammed, your helper springs should be pretty much compressed fully at suspension full droop (when your wheels are off the ground). Therefore, you should be able to remove them without leaving your main springs loose at full droop.

I believe that KW is bounded by German regulations to keep the main springs secured in position at suspension full droop at all TÜV-approved ride heights. Hence the helper springs.

As long as your car is not slammed, your helper springs should be pretty much compressed fully at suspension full droop (when your wheels are off the ground). Therefore, you should be able to remove them without leaving your main springs loose at full droop.

I believe that KW is bounded by German regulations to keep the main springs secured in position at suspension full droop at all TÜV-approved ride heights. Hence the helper springs.

Good luck!

Is it possible to swap from 60 mm to 2.25" ID springs on KWs (lower spring seat/collars, helpers and couplers also would need to be changed)? Now that I've switched dampers and am using 2.25" F springs I have just enough additional clearance to switch to a 10" F wheel, if needed, and still use helper springs/couplers.

Is it possible to swap from 60 mm to 2.25" ID springs on KWs (lower spring seat/collars, helpers and couplers also would need to be changed)? Now that I've switched dampers and am using 2.25" F springs I have just enough additional clearance to switch to a 10" F wheel, if needed, and still use helper springs/couplers.

I just measured a KW spring perch and it came in at 2.40" dia. Depending on the true ID of a 2.25" spring, it may or may not work, but most likely the latter.

I just measured a KW spring perch and it came in at 2.40" dia. Depending on the true ID of a 2.25" spring, it may or may not work, but most likely the latter.

I measured all of my 2.25" springs and the IDs were 2.25-2.27".

The only way it would work is if the lower spring perch/locking collars, helper/tender springs, and couplers are all changed - is it worth the additional cost or is there sufficient thread on the damper body to remove everything but the main spring and keep it seated at full droop?