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Removing drive pulley when changing timing belts

I am currently in the process of changing the timing belts in a 86 GL, however am having trouble with getting the main drive pulley off so that I can remove the last cover. So far I have tried to jam the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver into the holes. I have then applied a reasonable amount of force in either direction to the nut, but it has not budged. Before I start exerting more pressure, I would like to know what is the best way to stop the flywheel spinning, and in which direction does the nut undo (clockwise or anticlockwise)?

It's a standard threaded bolt, so go counterclockwise. If the car has a manual transmission, just put it in 5th gear with the parking brake applied. If it's an auto, there is apparently a special tool to stick into the flex plate that holds it stationary, but I've used screwdrivers, etc with pretty good luck in the past.

If you have tried everying to no avail, remove the radiator and use an impact wrench. (Note: I have never had to resort to this in the past.)

use a socket extension, the crank pulley is very tight, i would not rely on a screwdriver to hold without breaking.

jam the flywheel (alternately you can put it in gear if it's a 5 speed). standard threads like just mentioned. use a large pipe over the socket handle or a breaker bar to get it off. it's a cast bolt and cast crank that it's threaded into so stripping the threads should not be an issue (ie it's not aluminum like some of the engine parts). if you can't get it, you need more leverage, something longer. pipe over the socket handle is my preferred method, works great.

another option for the brave, is to let the socket wrench on the crank pulley and turn it until it rests against the lower motor mount. then crank the engine over real quick with the starter (don't start the motor, just bump the starter real quick - unplug the disty/ignition coil wire to prevent starting). the socket wrench will not go anywhere because of the engine mount holding it and the bolt will back out. i did it once about 10 years ago on my XT6 when i first started because i didn't know how else to do it, i was just learning the ropes. this can save much time on cars with horrible access to the crank bolt, but that's not subaru's, with the right tools it should come right off.

remember how tight this joker is when you go to reinstall, you don't want the bolt to come loose while driving it will cause you all sorts of headaches. get it real tight. also always be sure to remove whatever it is you stuck in the flywheel when removing/installing the crank pulley. don't want to turn the motor over with something wedged in the flywheel.

A low tech trick I've used at times to stop an engine from turning is to remove a sparkplug and feed about 15' of clothesline into the chamber with the piston down. Be sure to leave enough rope outside so you can pull it back out.

you don't want the bolt to come loose while driving it will cause you all sorts of headaches. get it real tight.

Been there, done that. 10 miles into the first drive after head gasket change, wondered why I lost the alternator and the temp seemed to be going up... Chews up the pulley so you have to replace that too.

another option for the brave, is to let the socket wrench on the crank pulley and turn it until it rests against the lower motor mount. then crank the engine over real quick with the starter (don't start the motor, just bump the starter real quick - unplug the disty/ignition coil wire to prevent starting). the socket wrench will not go anywhere because of the engine mount holding it and the bolt will back out. i did it once about 10 years ago on my XT6 when i first started because i didn't know how else to do it, i was just learning the ropes. this can save much time on cars with horrible access to the crank bolt, but that's not subaru's, with the right tools it should come right off.

Never thought of that for the crank pulley. I've done it for taking of front axle nuts that were rusted on. Wedge a 15" adjustable wrench on the nut as tight as you can, with the handle against a large rock, put it in first gear (or reverse depending on which side), and quickly kick it over over with the clutch out.

Check your pulley for holes down in the recessed areas. If they are there a punch, extension, bolt, etc can be stuffed into the appropriate hole and you can crank on the main bolt with a breaker bar to loosen. If you already have the car on a hoist or jack stands the starter trick works pretty good just scary the first time you do it wrong from what I have heard.

If you can't get it by one of these methods listed, get a buddy or someone to help hold something in the flywheel. The crank pulley bolt should be torqued to about 70 ftlb, so it can be tough to hold the flywheel and beaker the bolt at the same time. In some cases, four hands are better than two. Just be careful not to lever something off the point on the flywheel housing that aligns with the timing marks. It will break easy.

remember how tight this joker is when you go to reinstall, you don't want the bolt to come loose while driving it will cause you all sorts of headaches. get it real tight. also always be sure to remove whatever it is you stuck in the flywheel when removing/installing the crank pulley. don't want to turn the motor over with something wedged in the flywheel.