Wood counter questions.

Ok, I made a bath vanity and am happy with the results until I priced a top for a 60” vanity. WOW! I have no idea how they sell them so cheap as complete units at the box stores. It is almost cheaper to buy a complete vanity just for the top. I only spent about $150 for the cabinet itself thinking I saved a bundle. $600-800 for granite or solid surface top.

I am painting vanity a neutral charcoal gray/black milk paint. I decided a wood top will save me some cash. Would plywood with a veneer top be more stable then top?grain wood glued together to make a panel? I was looking at walnut or mahogany? I know all edges need sealing top to bottom and was looking at waterlox?

I also saw some nice veneered 3/4 ply which would obviously be easier but will it hold up? would it actually be more stable? Maybe veneer myself with a teak stripe?

Thanks

4 replies so far

You need to go to a granite shop for pricing.My local granite guy has very nice granite for $25 / sq. ft.For a 60” vanity that’s $250.Of course they will charge to deliver , install, cut holes, etc.But that is not going to add $500 more dollars to the price.

$30-35 is about what I found but the cuts for the sink and faucets were another $200. One edge also $50-75 adds to price. 3” backsplash, etc. To deliver and install would be even more. It sounds cheap when you price the bare slab but it ads up quick and that is off Craigslist.

If it was 49” Lowes and HD have option for about $250. I have tried just about everything and that is why I am going to try wood.

Well, the big box stores can sell it cheap because they usually don’t have grade A pieces and you really don’t get to pick the slab you’re buying. It’s just on there. Plus, they are buying them from huge manufacturers that get this stuff in bulk and have machines that do nothing but stamp out (cut) only these tops.

You’re probably not going to want to use plywood. For one, it isn’t thick enough and rarely is the grain a particularly attractive pattern (that is subjective of course). Second, you’re going to have to cover the edges some how and that may be the biggest source of problems. If water gets into the edge, the wood will swell and the veneer may bubble, buckle, get soft, etc.

You’re probably going to want to use a bar top epoxy (resin). It pretty much encases the wood. If you don’t want to go that route, poly will work too, but you need to pay attention to how it is wearing and if there are any flaws in it.

I used to build skimboards when I was a teenager and used nothing but poly to protect them and they lasted for years with regular upkeep (once a year 1 coat refresh).