Monthly Archives: May 2015

… This recent pitch made me laugh. Does everyone have such disdain for poor old Pinot Grigio?

“Excellent Pinot Grigio” may seem like an oxymoron to most; this ubiquitous wine is often criticized as being neutral, characterless and simply uninteresting. Yet in the hands of Elena Walch, a top producer in Italy’s northeastern Alto Adige region, Pinot Grigio is capable of greatness. Even better, both of her bottlings are under $25 and are easily enjoyed throughout the summer and beyond.

Walch is offering two PGs:

Elena Walch Pinot Grigio ($17) with distinct aromas of ripe pear, sage and white pepper with a mineral richness on the finish.

Elena Walch Pinot Grigio Castel Ringberg ($23), produced in the largest single vineyard in the region. It’s more concentrated and fuller-bodied, with with zippy acidity.

Hey, I’ll bite. But imagine if an American winemaker used the same selling tactic: “Most Sauvignon Blancs really blow, but Merry Edwards makes one that doesn’t.”

… Back in the day, wine retailers couldn’t give rosé away. Spooked by the memory of white zinfandel, most American consumers associated its rosy color with cheap, sweet plonk and didn’t understand the joys of this bone-dry summer wine with bracing minerality.

How times have changed. Every winery in California, it seems, is offering a rosé these days. Some, like Martinelli, are bucking tradition and opting for non-Rhone varietals. Here’s the announcement about its new rosé:

“We are very excited to announce the release of our 2014 Rosé of Pinot Noir! The nose offers vibrant watermelon, lemon rind, and red cherry with a touch of Provençal herbs. The flavors are pomegranate and tart red apple in the core with a palate-cleansing acidity, finishing with notes of citrus and wild strawberry. Drink this through summer, and save a few to serve with Thanksgiving turkey. This wine is extremely limited and priced at $25 per bottle.”

… And speaking of rosé, Provence’s Château d’Esclans is rebranding its namesake wine, Château d’Esclans. Owner Sacha Alexis Lichine has given the estate-bottled rosé a new name: Rock Angel. It will debut with a redesigned label on the upcoming 2014 vintage release beginning June 2015.

Here’s what the winery says: “Transparent pale in color, the rosé has a delicate red berry aroma on the nose. On the palate, it has mineral and floral notes with a touch of spice; complemented by a long, dry finish.”

Rock Angel will be available starting June 2015 in select markets throughout the United States. SRP is $35 for a 750ml bottle. For more information, visit the website.

Our bartender was having way too much fun: Posing for selfies with attractive women, shouting to his friends in an exotic foreign language, slinging Moscow mules with merry vigor. How could he ignore what was happening right above his head on the huge flat-screen TV? The Ducks were slugging it out with the Chicago Blackhawks in game six of the NHL Western Conference finals, and things weren’t going well. For local fans of the game, this was serious-as-a-heart-attack time.

Selanne was manning the bar with former Ducks goalie Guy Hebert, another extrovert who loved chatting with patrons as much as his ex-teammate and hosted his own gaggle of pals. But when it came to bartending, Selanne’s restaurateur skills took over and he left Hebert in his dust. The Finnish Flash expertly mixed rows of mules (the restaurant’s signature drink and one of his favorites) and tasted a couple with a dipped straw covered by a finger at one end, just like the pros do. Hebert was content to pour IPAs from the tap.

Before faceoff, I asked Selanne about the Ducks’ chances. “I hope they get it done tonight,” he said. “I hate game sevens. But Chicago is a hard team to beat on their own ice.” Were they harder than the Detroit Red Wings, the Ducks’ longtime enemies? “Not harder or easier. Just different.”

Selanne glanced at the game occasionally, but the evening was painful for everyone as the Hawks widened their lead. Sometimes it seemed like the better Ducks team was at Selanne’s bar, not in Chicago. Fellow Finn Saku Koivu, who played with Selanne on the Ducks for several seasons, shouted out a greeting in their native tongue. Former Ducks Steve Rucchin and George Parros were rumored to be in the house.

Koivu was just as friendly as Selanne, and about as uninterested in the game. We chatted about his wine collection, which is reported to be impressive.

“I’m selling most of it,” he told me. Why? Because he’s moving back to Finland – like Selanne, he retired from the Ducks at the end of last season – “and they charge a tax of 24 percent on any wine you bring in.”

Mid-game, Selanne’s wife Sirpa breezed in with an entourage of well-dressed women. Champagne was their drink of choice – they were celebrating Sirpa’s birthday, even though the date was far off. She’s in Finland then, so her girlfriends decided to move the big date so they could party on game night.

An oblivious man asked Sirpa where she was from. He seemed fascinated by her Finnish accent. Perhaps sensing danger, she pointed to Selanne behind the bar. “That guy over there in the black shirt is my husband. He’s the owner – but not the real boss.”

The Ducks lost decisively in regulation (the first time that’s happened this postseason) and the place began to empty. But the party atmosphere wasn’t dampened by the outcome. Selanne paused during a round of handshaking near the front door to offer an assessment. “The goalie has to be your best player, always. Otherwise, you won’t win.” His face got serious for an instant. Then he broke into a wide Selanne grin as a friend approached. They chattered in Finnish. The game, and its ignominious result, seemed far away. Time for another round.

When the weather turns warm and the days grow longer, many people break out those crisp Chardonnays or bone-dry Provencal roses. Not my family. For us, nothing says summer like an ice-cold pitcher of sangria. (I’m an optimist: despite the recent spate of cool weather, I know sangria season is coming. Sometime in the next three months, at least.)

At our house, sangria pairs well with my wife’s paella, one of our favorite dishes to cook outdoors in the summer, and it’s light enough to quaff moderately on its own without endangering your sobriety. It’s also very well suited to barbecues; I especially like the way it matches up to grilled chicken and spicy sauces. Best of all, it’s an excellent way to get less expensive reds out of your wine cellar without drawing attention to their imperfections. You don’t need to sacrifice that prized bottle of Kosta Browne Pinot Noir to make great sangria – just a modest red with enough body to still make its presence known when mixed with juice and fruit.

Sangria was born in Spain and Portugal, where gargantuan pitchers are a familiar sight in restaurants. Our favorite sangria recipe, though, comes from closer to home: it was created by Deborah M. Schneider, a friendly and hugely talented Canadian chef who’s a master of Mexican cuisine. (The recipe is from her excellent cook book, “Rancho La Puerta.”) She’s behind Sol Cocina in Newport Beach and a more casual Mexican restaurant, Solita, at Bella Terra in Huntington Beach.

We like this sangria recipe for several reasons. It’s very easy – I’m no Einstein and I have memorized. It’s adaptable – we’ve discovered that it’s successful even when you substitute one juice for another. And if you’re on the war path against sweeteners, it requires no added sugar – in our slight variation of Schneider’s recipe, the fruit juice supplies all the sweetness.

(Schneider recommends adding ½ cup of agave syrup, but we have found the recipe is sweet enough without it.)

Wash the orange and lemon and slice thinly from end to end. Place the slices in a large glass pitcher, add the remaining ingredients, and stir. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving. (We like to let it sit overnight.)

Strain the sangria and serve in tall glasses. Garnish with a piece of soaked fruit from the mixture.

A tip: this sangria travels and ages well. We’ve taken it on trips in the cooler, and we’ve discovered it gets tremendously mellow and integrated a day after mixing. There is a limit, though – once the fruit loses its structure and turns to mush, your sangria is done.

… Here’s more proof that the canned craft beer trend has really taken hold. The Microbrewed Beer of the Month Club, a membership-based beer club that distributes rare U.S. and international craft beers on a monthly basis, announced that canned craft beers will now be included with select monthly shipments throughout 2015.

Several major domestic and international craft breweries are being considered for the company’s September shipment, including Yo-Ho Brewing Company, Evil Twin Brewing, Nebraska Brewing Company, Cigar City Brewing, Wynkoop Brewing Company and Snake River Brewing.

So what’s the deal with canned beer, once scorned as swill suitable only for frat boys and bikers? The company explains:

“The recent surge in craft beer canning can be attributed to many different beneficial factors, including the lower packaging costs when compared to bottling and the increasing availability of mobile canning operations. In addition, cans offer excellent protection against the harmful effects of sunlight, can help keep beer fresh for longer periods of time, are lighter and safer than bottles, and are more environmentally friendly.”

… And here’s another beer trend that makes eminent sense. The Dog Haus, a popular gourmet hot dog spot franchise with a new location in the Westfield MainPlace Santa Ana mall, is testing a new self-serve craft beer system called the iPourit. They’re allowing patrons to pour themselves the following brews: Cismontane Brewing Company’s Citizen Lager, Avery Brewing Company’s Ellie’s Brown Ale, Bootlegger Brewery’s Old World Hefeweizen and the Session IPA from Taps Fish House & Brewery.

… Should the 2015 NHL Western Conference Finals go to Game 6 (and sorry, Black Hawks fans, but I sincerely hope it doesn’t), former Anaheim Ducks teammates Teemu Selanne and Guy Hebert will be slinging some drinks at a special Ducks Watch & Dinner Party at Teemu’s restaurant, Selanne Steak Tavern, on Wednesday. Selanne, the Ducks’ most famous former player, and Hebert, one of its best-ever goalies, will help whip the crowd into a partisan frenzy, no doubt.

You can watch the game in the restaurant’s Wine Room, outside on the veranda and on the four flat screens in the tavern starting at 5 p.m. Dinner reservations are required for all sections of the restaurant, and guests will have their table for the entire night.

I’m guessing Teemu will be whipping up his favorite drink and the restaurant’s trademark libation, the Moscow Mule. Guy will be there because the game is being played in Chi-town, so he is freed from his home-game color commentary TV duties.

… Gordon Biersch Brewing Company announced this week that its Kölsch-style Sommerbrau is available in stores now. Kölsch translates directly to “the beer of Cologne,” in the West of Germany. This light bodied beer is fermented using a special top fermenting yeast strain that Gordon Biersch co-founder Dan Gordon sources from former classmates at the Technical University of Munich, Weihenstephan. Here’s the 411 for beer geeks:

BottleRock Napa Valley is a music festival that seems perfectly suited to America’s most famous wine region.

The third incarnation of the annual event, running May 29 through 31 at a five-stage outdoor venue near downtown Napa, places almost as much emphasis on food and wine as it does on its musical lineup.

“We really tried this year to deliver on what the Napa Valley can offer,” said David Graham, chief executive of Latitude 38, the company that took over the event after its bumpy first year. “People automatically think ‘food and wine’ when they think of this place. So the festival, more than ever, is very much branded around marrying the culinary arts and good wine with music.”

More than 50 restaurants and about 30 wineries will be on site, serving their best. You’ll see celebrity chefs in crazy mashups with musical artists on the culinary stage. Oh, and the talent isn’t too shabby either. Here’s a partial list: Imagine Dragons, No Doubt, Robert Plant, Snoop Dogg, Foster the People, Passion Pit, Gipsy Kings, Young the Giant, Public Enemy, Los Lobos, Scott Weiland & the Roundabouts, Preservation Hall Jazz Band.

… Escondido’s Stone Brewing Company has just announced its latest Arrogant Bastardbeer and, as usual, the marketing is brilliantly off-the-wall. The blood-red press release for Bourbon Barrel-Aged Arrogant Bastard Beer gives you an inkling of the company’s, um, unorthodox approach:

Will you pass up what the most discerning of craft beer enthusiasts would elbow out each other to realize for themselves…or will you drag this message to your over-stuffed trash folder, passing up on something not only special but potentially life-changing? …Should the outcome of your tangle with Liquid Arrogance leave you impressed, blown away or downright gobsmacked … join the already expansive legions of the Worthy and help spread the word.

Bourbon Barrel-Aged Arrogant Bastard Beer was released in selected states, including California, on April 27.

On May 1, a federal district court in Florida dismissed a class action lawsuit alleging Maker’s Mark deceived consumers by labeling its whiskey as “handmade.”

The decision by U.S. District Judge Robert Hinkle comes on the heels of a California federal court’s decision not to dismiss a similar consumer class action involving Tito’s Handmade Vodka.

“No reasonable person would understand ‘handmade’ in this context to mean literally made by hand,” Hinkle wrote. “No reasonable person would understand “handmade” in this context to mean substantial equipment was not used. If ‘handmade’ means only made from scratch, or in small units, or in a carefully monitored process, then the plaintiffs have alleged no facts plausibly suggesting that statement is untrue. If ‘handmade’ is understood to mean something else . . . the statement is the kind of puffery that cannot support claims of this kind.”

I wonder how long before the courts wrestle with my other pet peeve word: artisanal?

What is a Jeroboam, you ask? It’s also known as a double magnum. That means it holds three liters of bubbly – as big as four regular bottles. (For the record, it’s half as big as a Methuselah and one-quarter the size of a Balthazar.)

Krug is bullish on the bubbly: “Having matured in Krug’s cellars for over ten years, this exceptional three-liter Krug Rosé has developed radiant, harmonious aromas and elegant character. With only 122 Jeroboams released, this is a truly unparalleled and rare tasting experience.”

Until a couple of years ago I knew very little about wines from the state of Washington.

I’d been to Oregon’s Willamette Valley many times to taste its wonderful examples of Pinot Noir, and because I grew up in British Columbia I’m a fan of the burgeoning wine movement in the Okanagan, as pretty a wine region as you’ll see on this side of the Atlantic.

But Washington was an embarrassing blank spot in my viticultural knowledge, despite my frequent travels to the Northwest.

Most of Washington’s wine-growing regions are in the hot, arid southeastern part of the state, half a day’s drive from Seattle. (You don’t have to make that trek to taste the wines, though. Many wineries operate tasting rooms near Seattle, a city I visit all the time. Woodinville is a short drive from town, and it’s a veritable wine mecca.)

I determined to get myself better educated. My wife and I drove north and stayed in the appropriately named town of Halfway, Oregon (“halfway to nowhere,” I announced when we finally got there) which was close enough to two Washington AVA’s, Red Mountain and Walla Walla, that we were able to do several day trips and tastings.

What I found there was a revelation.

Southeastern Washington has long been famous for its world-class merlots and is gaining an enviable reputation for other Bordeaux varietals as well.

The tiny Red Mountain AVA, a gentle west-facing slope on the eastern end of the Yakima Valley, was established in 2001. Despite its size it’s an important grape producer for large Washington wineries and has about 15 labels of its own. Five of the six red Bordeaux varietals are grown here: cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. The arid tableland has proven good for other grapes too, notably sangiovese and syrah. Some of Washington’s cult cabs come from Red Mountain, including 2005 Quilceda Creek Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon, which scored a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker.

Despite its proximity to the Columbia River, the weather is drier here than in most wine-growing regions in California – only 6 to 8 inches of rain per year. Summers can be scorching, although the thermometer can drop 40 degrees or more after dark in the summer.

Fidelitas is currently one of Washington’s hottest labels. Owner Charlie Hoppes was named the 2013 Winemaker of the Year by Seattle Magazine. I liked its 2012 Semillon Columbia Valley ($20), a light summer white that matches well with goat cheese and grilled seafood; the 2009 Red Mountain Merlot ($45), which Seattle Magazine calls one of Washington’s outstanding wines; and the Ciel du Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($60), a well balanced and complex cab that rivals the best from Napa’s Oakville Cross or Rutherford areas.

Less than a quarter mile south of Fidelitas, Kiona makes less expensive wines that offer great value. I loved the Red Mountain Lemberger ($15), a bold example of a seldom-seen varietal, known in Germany as Blaufränkisch. It’s fairly full-bodied and lively. Kiona calls it a “pinot on steroids.” I couldn’t have put it better.

Another excellent buy was the Estate Red Mountain Mourvèdre Rosé ($15), as astringent and mineral-ish on the finish as a Provençal rose, but with a hint of effervescence. Kiona was offering half cases for $50 when I was there – the kind of deal I haven’t seen in California for a long time.

Red Mountain lies just west of Richland and north of the I-82. The nearest accommodations can be found in one of the tri-cities: Richland, Kennewick or Pasco.

Ciel du Cheval AVA, also known by its English name, Horse Heaven Hills, is nearby; like Red Mountain, it’s getting very popular.

Here’s a random list of the standouts from recent samplings in my in-box and three recent trips to the Central Coast.

Babcock 2013 Central Coast Chardonnay($20): If you’ve ever been to Walt’s Wharf in Seal Beach, you know that the Babcocks are serious winemakers as well as first-rate restaurateurs (their wines are on the menu for very reasonable prices). Walt’s son Bryan does an impressive job with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at the family-owned winery. This reasonably priced Chardonnay is rich and unctuous, thanks to full malolactic fermentation, yet retains bracing minerality.

Buccella 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon($145): One of those wines that makes you realize that yes, sometimes it’s worth it to spend serious coin on the right Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine Spectator: “Intense and potent, with a rich mix of lead pencil, graphite, dark and dried berry, cedar and anise flavors. Maintains its intensity and persistence on the long, chewy finish.”

Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Dry Riesling Central Coast($22): Do you customarily write off Riesling as interesting but too cloying? You need to give this one a try. Floral aromatics, curious earthiness and just the right hint of minerality. The owner-winemaker, Clay Thompson, is worth the trip to this rustic Edna Valley tasting room – he’s a former Norse scholar and a fascinating guy.

Deschutes Brewery Zarabanda: With lemon verbena, pink peppercorn, sumac and dried lime. This is the perfect beer to drink right after you’ve done some sweaty yard work. It’s outdoorsy and strong but satisfyingly thirst-quenching, with a slightly grassy flavor. The Oregon brewery describes it as “a Spanish take on the farmhouse-style saison.”

J Dusi 2014 Pinot Grigio ($16): Balanced, bright, dry and refreshing, this delightful wine is the perfect expression of Pinot Grigio from a famous Paso family that has been making wine in the area since the 1920s. Janell (the “J” in the name) is young but clearly learned everything she needed to from her father and uncle.

McEvoy Ranch 2012 Pinot Noir ($45): This Pinot Noir comes from western Marin County, and it’s a beautiful expression of Northern California Pinot – elegant, balanced, a satisfying mix of Burgundian and American approaches (it won’t bowl you over like some of the more over-extracted Southern California Pinots do).

Onx 2012 Reckoning ($45): 62 percent Syrah, 16 percent Petite Sirah, 8 percent Tempranillo, 7 percent Grenache, 5 percent Zinfandel and 2 percent Malbec, this muscular and beguiling wine is a superb example of the power of the “Paso blend.” With its balance of heft, moderate tannins, unctuous fruit and long finish, this is the perfect red to pair with grilled meats.

Paso Robles – I’m in my favorite Californian wine region for the third visit in a month, this time to cover the CABS of Distinction trade and media get-together.

It’s been a fantastic month of winery visits and interviews. I got to tour the spectacular new cave at Saxum with its legendary owner-winemaker, Justin Smith. I had a long lunch with Jerry Lohr and his red wine guru, Steve Peck. I poked around Epoch with owner Bill Armstrong, who is meticulously restoring the 19th-century York Mountain winery, stone by careful stone. I toured Niner’s state-of-the-art facilities with Andy Niner (the son of owner-founder Dick Niner, one of the first deep-pockets outsiders to swoop into Paso), who has assembled a great team of winemakers and vastly improved his winery’s formerly so-so product, IMHO.

But the most exciting news out of Paso is the 2013 vintage. For reds, and Bordeaux varietals in particular, this could be a year to remember – the Central Coast’s version of 1982 for Bordeaux.

For those of you who geek out on the science side, the phenolic numbers are considered phenomenal. (Phenolics are the hundreds of chemical compounds found in grape seeds, stems and skins that affect the taste, color and mouthfeel of wine.) At a seminar on phenolics last Wednesday, all phenolic measurements showed that 2013 was a standout compared to other recent years.

But this is what really got my attention: even the veteran winemakers are using superlatives.

“I’ve never seen a year like 2013,” said Michael Mooney, who founded Chateau Margene and has been producing high-quality Bordeaux wines since the ’97 vintage. “The weather was as perfect as you could hope for – no freezes in the spring, no late temperature spikes in the fall, no unexpected rain but just enough precipitation.”

I remember winemakers were thanking their lucky stars two years ago that they weren’t getting a repeat of 2011, a disastrous year for Central Coast wineries that was cursed with all manner of nastiness, including a disastrous April freeze.

My tasting experiences confirmed the winemakers’ rosy reports. Mooney’s 2013 reds were beautifully balanced and structured, and his intelligent use of new technologies and practices with oak barrels has added intriguing subtlety to his wines. Lohr’s extensive Cabernet Sauvignon line-up is similarly strong for the ’13 vintage. There’s a huge amount of punch to the 2013s, and I predict they’ll age well.

Paso, which produces a lot more Bordeaux than Rhone grapes, is ideal Cab country. Among its best the flavor profile is superior, with less assertive tannins, more luscious fruit and greater complexity than many Napa Cabs with bigger price tags. In terms of soil, climate, meteorological consistency, hang time and diurnal swing, parts of Paso are perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and other Bordeaux varietals. That’s what got Dr. Stanley Hoffman and other pioneers interested in the place back in the 1960s and ’70s, long before the Zinfandel and Rhone crazes swept through.

I’ll give you a more complete report when I return to town, including a rundown of the 11 new sub-appellations and what they might mean for the consumer.

… Daniel Minjares, senior restaurant manager at The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon, was recently appointed mixologist for the upscale Anaheim restaurant. (It’s an additional task for the busy Minjares, who will remain The Ranch’s manager.) The southern California native and 33-year restaurant veteran was the former beverage manager at SkyCity Restaurant at the Space Needle in Seattle. He has been at The Ranch for three years.

… I just received these numbers from the California Craft Brewers Association (CCBA). If they’re accurate, it looks as though the craft-beer craze is showing no signs of slowing down. California leads the nation in growth.

CCBA Report: Craft Beer in California

Economic Impact: In 2014 craft beer contributed more than $6.5 billion to the economy of California. That’s up 18 percent from 2013. More accurate numbers are coming in June; CCBA expects them to be even rosier.

Employment: In 2014, craft brewers employed more than 48,000 people in California.

Growth: During 2014 the number of operating breweries grew by over 24 percent. There are now giving 520 operating breweries in California.

Taxes: In 2014, California craft brewers paid more than $56 million in State and federal excise taxes and more than $1.3 billion in other local, state and federal taxes ($880 million in state and local income taxes and $465 in federal income taxes).

… Nepal’s tragic earthquake has prompted many fundraising efforts. Among the more unusual locally is Crawl 4 Nepal, happening tomorrow (Saturday, May 9). More than 20 breweries are participating, including King Harbor Brewing Company, Golden Road Brewing, Sanctum Brewing Company, and Hangar 24. Here’s the full line-up. Each location will have at least one “charity beer” on tap, and proceeds from the sales of that beer will go to GlobalGiving, which distributes money for immediate and long-term help.