The Margarita pizza at Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

The Margarita pizza at Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

Photo: John Storey, SPECIAL TO THE CHRONICLE

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A beer being poured at the Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

A beer being poured at the Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

Photo: John Storey, SPECIAL TO THE CHRONICLE

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The meatballs in spicy marinara at Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

The meatballs in spicy marinara at Delarosa restaurant in San Francisco on Friday, August 13th, 2010.

Photo: John Storey, SPECIAL TO THE CHRONICLE

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Delarosa, S.F.

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Judging from the location, enthusiastic clientele and frenzy, spurred on by cocktails, this joint would probably be a hit even without the food. But three cheers for the menu, transported from the Mission by Ruggero Gadaldi and the team at Beretta. Communal tables and a waiting list encourage - force? - camaraderie between Marina regulars and the occasional destination drinker and eater (overheard one night, from one slightly tipsy party to the other: "Ohmigod, sorry to interrupt, but I can't believe the McCain-Snooki tweet either!!"). You just might want to share a slice with your elbow-rubbing neighbor.

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The vibe: Packed, loud and dark. Steel yourself for the wait with a drink. Or wear shoulder pads.

The crowd: Marina see-and-be-seens, average age 25, dominate.

Best seat: On the high table between the main dining area and the bar, away from the door. You'll be in the middle of the action - with clear sight lines to the open kitchen and bar - but slightly protected from the surrounding masses.

Killer app: The beet carpaccio, with slivers of goat ricotta and truffle oil ($8), is clean and light, a nice respite before a selection from the fritti - crab arancini with calabrese aioli ($10) has a welcome little kick - or any of the Roman-style pizzas. Don't miss the margherita with burrata ($15), or the prosciutto di Parma, arugula and mozzarella ($15), with burrata subbed in.

Signature drink: When asked the signature cocktail from 12 listed ($9 each), one bartender replied, "All of 'em." To his credit, it's hard to choose. The Bumble Bee (rum, lime, egg white, honey, bitters) can be a work of art, both in the mouth and in the glass.

Also on tap: Italian wines dominate the wine list, but pay particular attention to the beer selection; 15 beers on tap ($5-$11) and 14 bottled ($5-$27) are served in specialty glasses.

Bonus: Weekend brunch, where the menu is fortified with Eggs Purgatorio ($8.50) and Pizza Carbonara ($12).