For Chocolate Bands:

For Chocolate curls:

Directions

FOR THE CHORIZO:

Step 1 Soak the chiles in a bowl in very hot water to cover until soft, about 15 minutes. Drain the chiles, tear into smaller pieces, and return to the bowl.

For this step you will need

1/4 lb. chiles guajillos , stems, seeds, and membranes removed

Step 2 Add the vinegar and marinate for 45 minutes, stirring from time to time. Transfer the chiles and vinegar to a blender and process until smooth, adding a bit more vinegar only if needed to release the blades.

For this step you will need

3/4 cup mild vinegar such as vinagre de pina or diluted unseasoned rice vinegar, or more if needed

Step 3 Put the pork, pork fat, and garlic in a large bowl and toss until crumbled and well mixed. Add the pureed chiles, oregano, salt, pepper, thyme, allspice, cloves, and perhaps the tequila.

For this step you will need

1/2 lb. medium-ground pork fat

4 large cloves garlic, minced

1/4 lb. chiles guajillos , stems, seeds, and membranes removed

2 tsps. sea salt

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Large splash of tequila blanco

Step 4 Thoroughly squish together all of the ingredients with your hands. Fry a spoonful in a small skillet until thoroughly cooked, taste, and add more salt if needed.

For this step you will need

2 tsps. sea salt

Step 5 Cover the bowl tightly and cure in the refrigerator for at least 1 day and preferably for 3 days, occasionally turning the mixture so the flavors are well blended.

Step 6 At this point, the chorizo can be divided into smaller batches, some to be used immediately in various dishes and others that can be frozen for up to 3 months.

FOR THE LINKS:

Step 7 If you are making links with only some of the chorizo, you will not need all of the casings. Rinse the casings in cool water to remove the salt, then soak them in water to cover mixed with the vinegar for 30 minutes.

For this step you will need

3/4 cup mild vinegar such as vinagre de pina or diluted unseasoned rice vinegar, or more if needed

Step 8 As you remove the casings from the water, cut in half. Squeeze closed one end of a length and fill the opposite end with water to make sure there are no leaks.

Step 9 If there is a puncture, cut the casing on both sides of the puncture, tie a double knot at one end of each length, and press any water out the other end.

Step 10 Here now is the real challenge, and the fun: stuffing the filling into the casings. It can be done with just a funnel and any round, flat-ended piece of wood that fits into the opening.

Step 11 Carefully smooth the open end of the casing over the funnel, pushing it as far up as it will easily go.

Step 12 Before adding the meat mixture, hold the funnel upright and press the casing to remove any excess air.

Step 13 Now, stuff some of the chorizo into the funnel, pushing as much of it as you can down into the casing and adding enough to make a firm package but leaving a little empty space at the end to make another double knot.

Step 14 Twist and tie every 3 1/2 to 4 inches with burlap-type string or narrow strips of dried corn husk. Diana Kennedy, from whom I have learned so much, always waits until she has filled the whole casing and then ties it off to make sure that all of the space is filled.

Step 15 Hang the links to dry at room temperature for 3 days, then cover and refrigerate and continue to dry for several more days.