FullForce Applications™http://www.fullforceapps.com
enComputer Repair by Braden Licastro - 10 Years in the Makinghttp://www.fullforceapps.com/node/241
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>In celebration of the 10 year anniversary of my computer repair service, all documents and associated systems have officially been updated and brought into the 21st century! It is sad to retire the old name QuoTek, but a clearer name will hopefully lead to a brighter and more prosperous future.</p>
<p>For more information see the computer repair portal home page!<br /><a href="http://www.fullforceapps.com/computerrepair">http://www.fullforceapps.com/computerrepair</a></p>
</div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-tag field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags::&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/33" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">repair</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/34" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">anniversary</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/35" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">braden</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/36" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">QuoTek</a></div></div></div>Wed, 09 Apr 2014 06:25:55 +0000Braden241 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/node/241#comments4.6M Users' Data Leaked, You Can Thank SnapChat!http://www.fullforceapps.com/snapchat-data-leak
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>If you have been keeping up with the ongoing situation involving the massive leak of approximately 4.6 million users' phone numbers and usernames, you may wonder what this means for you. If this is new news, I highly recommend reading one of the numerous articles <a href="http://www.the4cast.com/2014/01/snapchats-4-6-million-users-phone-numbers-usernames-leaked/">such as this,</a> and stopping back here to figure things out!</p>
<p><strong>Is my account affected?</strong><br />
Right now, the website hosting all of the leaked data is under a heavy load. In addition, the CSV file is so large that Excel cannot open the entire thing allowing you to search all of the leaked data. We have taken the liberty to do as <a href="http://robbiet.us/snapchat/">this site</a> has done and allow you to search through a database of the leaked information and see for yourself whether or not you have been affected. Our database uses the leaked and censored database provided at <a href="http://www.snapchatdb.info/">SnapChatDB</a>, but we also allow you to search by phone number OR username. If a match is found, your information is leaked, if not, you can relax as you are more than likely safe! <a href="http://snapchecker.fullforceapps.com/">See if you are affected here!</a></p>
<p><strong> My information was leaked, what does this mean?</strong><br />
Most people user the same username for just about everything they do. In this situation, it is especially bad. If you use the same username for banking, loans, work, college, or any other sensitive information it is highly recommended that you change this as soon as possible and also use unique passwords for each different account. This leaked information can also open you up to a potentially massive amount of spam delivered to your phone. There are numerous other possible uses for the data, but these are the most immediately obvious.</p>
<p><strong>What can I do to recover from this data leak?</strong><br />
First, it is important to stay calm. Only your username and phone number have been exposed at this time. To be proactive, we highly recommend moving to a new username for any sites that share the same username as your SnapChat account. It is recommended to also change any passwords associated with the username and keep each one unique (ie, never use the same password for everything). Finally, we recommend talking to your phone provider associated with the leaked number. You may luck out and be mostly unaffected, but if your number is flooded with spam or you have any accounts that rely on the security of an unknown number, it would be beneficial to request a new number and reflect accordingly with anyone who had the old one.</p>
<p>We hope everyone can navigate this issue with minimal stress and will leave this system up for an undetermined amount of time. Until then... Happy New Year, be safe, and secure your data!</p>
<h1 style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://snapchecker.fullforceapps.com/">See if you are affected!</a></h1>
</div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-picture field-type-image field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Blog Picture:&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><img typeof="foaf:Image" src="http://www.fullforceapps.com/sites/default/files/bbc-newsbeat-snapchat-leaked-photos-page-closed-over-bullying-claims.png" width="450" height="252" alt="" /></div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-tag field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags::&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/29" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">snapchat</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/30" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">leak</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/31" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">checker</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/32" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">hack</a></div></div></div>Wed, 01 Jan 2014 07:59:37 +0000Braden239 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/snapchat-data-leak#commentsCheapy DIY False Bookhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/node/33
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>You have seen them in the movies and on TV. Every kid wants one, heck, every <em>adult</em> wants one. What am I talking about? A book that doubles as a low tech safe! Yes, you heard me, I finally got around to putting together a short tutorial for making one of these sneaky buggers; now you can hide important things from your housemates, like a stash of Cream Cheese and Chive crackers!</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VudeGtBp2pSw10QK6GAsp9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a_xyvt9Gb5Y/T0Uq1wHUvCI/AAAAAAAAAOc/wbnBMMl_nnA/s288/Meadville-20120218-00225.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>This project makes one of the coolest little hiding places. Are your socks still on? Time to blow them right off your feet. What would you say if I told you that this project didn't cost me a penny? Yeah, I thought so.</p>
<p>To get things started let's gather our supplies:</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-Crr7gtNPrZ2R-OCcCenu9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EscAxa7NP3c/Tx-VBpa0c8I/AAAAAAAAAMc/3Gry_7kK0gk/s288/Meadville-20120124-00184.jpg" height="288" width="216" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><ul><li>Box cutter (Preferably with a new blade)</li>
<li>Metal edged ruler</li>
<li>Lots of superglue (One new bottle was enough for me, but my book wasn't too thick)</li>
<li>A junk** <strong>hard cover</strong> book of appropriate thickness</li>
<li>An extra pair of socks. (Just in case you lose one when they get blown off)</li>
</ul><p>** Note that college libraries do not want you using their record books, even if you could hide a small animal in the finished product.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Nsi80OYJpjCu1za3_gg_jtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xMF75UbTqgQ/T0U6ejn8ucI/AAAAAAAAAOw/h5hpFzsKN9s/s288/196880_1979772539096_1386654819_32347191_3934297_n.jpg" height="288" width="222" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Okay, time to stop blabbering on about random garbage; let's get cracking!</p>
<p><strong>Step 1: Start Cutting</strong><br />
I found my book quietly waiting to find a new home in front of the college bookstore. It was out of print and in the free box- don't worry, I didn't get sticky fingers! Start by finding a place in the book where you want it to open to. I went about 20 pages in and found the start of a chapter. Flip one page past that, we'll use this page later to give the book a more finished look.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YBOcqCPZNMnmkYh1VDX0PNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tKRjf85HOUw/Tx-VB88TsNI/AAAAAAAAAMk/_dfqhfFw3HA/s288/Meadville-20120124-00186.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Take your straight edge and box cutter and start cutting away at the pages. <em>Be careful, fingers are surprisingly easy to lop off.</em><br /></p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-_3W6SSFMsB6-2fvNWIkHtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-frp5x20MZ24/Tx-VCUbMV0I/AAAAAAAAAMs/6r3ZK2YALVw/s288/Meadville-20120124-00187.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Once I got about half way through the book my knife couldn't go any further and keep a perfectly vertical "wall". I am sure there is a better way to do this, but you can carefully flip the cut pages over to expose uncut ones. Be sure to press down the side of the book you are cutting so the compartment doesn't have slanted sides.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mqxkN2zKGY531LZ9kefOiNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oCFF32feUB4/Tx-VAcxRU3I/AAAAAAAAAM0/72RjQQJ-ndg/s288/Meadville-20120124-00188.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p><strong>Step 2: Glue <strike>your fingers</strike> the pages together</strong><br />
For this step you'll want to put a piece of paper between the pages you didn't cut in the front, and the start of the compartment. Close the book and whip out that super glue. Evenly smear the super glue over the entire outer edge of the book, covering all of the page edges. This will seep in between the pages and bind them together. That piece of paper you separated the sections with will keep the uncut pages from being glued together.<br /></p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4LQAk9dI_7ZECDLJWfZlUtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jUGJmHmpaWc/Tx-VAM_CeAI/AAAAAAAAAM8/NNrUMtJ3pik/s288/Meadville-20120124-00189.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>When you are done with the gluing, put it under something heavy until you are sure the glue is dried. For me, I only worked with one side at a time and touched up any places where the pages didn't have enough glue and split apart. I figured my desk would be a good press.<br /></p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FWcNJVOt6tyl623dpbxtctMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xRgxm2GG7qc/Tx-U58IgQvI/AAAAAAAAANE/2zejrkGGxTI/s288/Meadville-20120124-00190.jpg" height="288" width="216" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p>After the outer edges are finished, glue the walls of the compartment to keep the pages from getting ragged.</p>
<p><strong>Step 3: Finish the inside of the compartment</strong><br />
This step is optional, but makes for a really nice finished product. It is also the reason we saved that extra page in the beginning. I had a roll of duck tape sitting in my drawer so I used it to line the inside of the book. Felt would have been nice, but I didn't have any laying around to hold my already unaffordably high budget of $0.00.<br /></p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vCTCst8l8i8BtgBzcZYDvdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CaBjPBv7Oec/Tx-U_XT9qnI/AAAAAAAAANM/6dx3_p1phNk/s288/Meadville-20120124-00191.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p><strong>Step 4: Finishing steps</strong><br />
We haven't forgotten about that extra page I had you keep earlier. If you want to use magnets to keep the cover from popping open now would be the time to install them. I didn't do this, but I highly recommend it. Once that is done take some more of that superglue and stick the "decorative" page down. It shouldn't be cut yet so yes, it will cover the compartment. Once the glue is dried take out the box cutter. If you carefully follow the sides of the storage area with the knife you will get a perfectly crisp edge that covers everything nice and neatly.<br /></p><table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sbSo3ar5O5cNr-FEhhgdk9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oVKeXqnavOk/Tx-VAhTerTI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/JLFlJKV_fec/s288/Meadville-20120124-00192.jpg" height="216" width="288" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/BookSafe?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Book Safe</a></td>
</tr></table><p> (Notice I have the POTUS protecting my valuables along with his crowd of followers. Good luck stealing my stuff, the feds are a tough nut to crack!)</p>
<p>Take that low tech safe of yours and use it however you like! Use it for good or otherwise, once it is on the bookshelf no one will be the wiser.</p>
<p><strong>To see the Instructable visit the project page located <em><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheapy-False-Book-Safe/">here</a></em>! </strong></p>
<p><span style="align:center;"><a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/"><img alt="Creative Commons License" style="border-width:0" src="http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-nc-sa/3.0/88x31.png" /></a><br />This work is licensed under a <a rel="license" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/">Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.</span></p>
</div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-tag field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags::&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/18" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Safe</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/19" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Book</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/20" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Security</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/21" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Storage</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/22" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">1 Hour Projects</a></div></div></div>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 21:13:17 +0000Braden33 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/node/33#commentsQuick and Dirty DDL Laser Driverhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/ddl-laser-driver
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>When using a laser diode it isn't advisable to hook up a power source and run your delicate diode directly (see what I did there?).Though it is possible to drive the laser diode using a pair of AA batteries and a resistor, you are asking for trouble down the line; and the same goes for an unregulated power supply, even if it is the right voltage. With a diode you must both regulate the voltage and restrict the current. Diodes are notoriously current hungry, unlike most electronic devices. Typically a component will pull the amount of current it needs and stop there. On the contrary, often times a diode will just pull more and more curerent until it burns itself out. This is why you need to use a laser driver with any laser diode. This leaves us with two options: go to ebay and order one that is neatly soldered to a breadboard and sealed in a package (while paying significantly more, waiting 'x' amount of time for shipping, and not having fun with a 700 degree torture device), or make a quick trip to Radioshack and build one with ease. I obviously chose the second option, hence this article. Lets begin.</p>
<p><strong>Parts Required:</strong><br />
1 - LM317 Adjustable Voltage Regulator<br />
1 - 10uF electrolytic capacitor<br />
1 - 1n4001 diode<br />
1 - 100 ohm variable resistor<br />
x - xxx ohm resistors (Calculate below)</p>
<p><em><strong>Just a note</strong></em></p>
<ul><li>The capacitor acts as a filter to smooth ripple. This is especially important in the case of an unregulated power supply being used, such as a "wall wart".</li>
<li>The diode provides protection to the laser in the event that the power supply is hooked up backwards. If it doesn't turn on, this is likely why.</li>
</ul><p><strong>To calculate the fixed resistor values:</strong></p>
<ol><li>Find the datasheet for your laser diode and locate the following:</li>
<ol style="{list-style-type:lower-alpha;}"><li>Operating Current (Max current) - This is 'I'</li>
</ol><li>Use the equation V = I*R (Ohms law)</li>
<li>We need to find R so... R = V/I</li>
<li>The LM317 reference voltage is always 1.25v - This is 'V'</li>
<li>Plug the values into the equation and calculate.<br />
- The number you get will be in kOhms, we need ohms</li>
<li>Multiply the result you from above by 1000. This is the resistor value you will need.</li>
<li>If you don't have the resistor size needed, the resistors can be wired in <strong>parallel</strong> to <strong>decrease</strong> the value or in <strong>series</strong> to <strong>increase</strong> the values. The equations used to calculate these are:</li>
<ol style="{list-style-type:lower-alpha;}"><li>Series:<br />
<em>RTOTAL = R1 + R2 + R3 + ...</em></li>
<li>Parallel:<br />
<em>1 / RTOTAL = (1 / R1) + (1 / R2) + (1 / R3) + ...</em></li>
</ol></ol><p><strong>To calculate the necessary input voltage:</strong><br />
Add the LED operating voltage from the data sheet to 3v (for the regulator) and this is the power required to operate the laser. If running on battery add another 1.2v, this will give a much better battery longevity.</p>
<p><strong>Now that you have all of your parts, simply follow the schematic below to build the constant current (DDL) laser driver.</strong></p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4qGExdhiqSa5tkY9J1Z6IdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-miolyfxTFOo/TvyNx8GlJiI/AAAAAAAAAJI/GMdztC7WjMM/s400/laser_Driver.png" height="114" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/SimpleLaserDriver?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Simple Laser Driver</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Before hooking up your laser... If you applied power to this circuit at any time, remember to short the leads of the capacitor. If you fail to do this it will kill the laser when the stored voltage is discharged. This is only necessary if you applied power without a load to consume the energy when it is turned off.</p>
<p>In addition. You will more than likely want to add some sort of power switch to this device. It <em><strong>MUST</strong></em> be placed between the power supply and the driver, NOT the driver and the laser diode. This will have the same effect as not discharging the capacitor when it is turned on and will damage the laser diode.</p>
<p>If everything goes well you will now have your own working laser driver and a happy diode! To finish it off, if you haven't already, pull the pieces from the breadboard and solder them NEATLY to a proto board. Radioshack sells general purpose ones that are more than useable, but you can design and print your own if you so choose.</p>
<p><em>The fine print</em><br />
* Remember, you are working with lasers here, they are harmful if aimed in the eyes; some may even be able to cause severe burns or start fires. Do not do anything that would make your mother say "Name, what in heavens sakes were you thinking? Why would you ever do 'insert world ending action here'?" In other words, be responsible, obey any stickers/warnings, and don't break any laws. *</p>
<p>** Be sure to check your voltages and current with a multimeter before connecting a laser diode. I am not responsible for any damages or fatalities caused by this article. I used these exact steps to make several of my own successfully, but yet, it comes with no warranty. **</p>
</div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-tag field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags::&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/13" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Laser</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/14" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Driver</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/15" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">DDL</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/16" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Adjustable</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/17" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Constant Current</a></div></div></div>Fri, 13 Jan 2012 05:51:07 +0000Braden32 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/ddl-laser-driver#commentsRGB Combination Doorlock - Phase 1: Planning and Pickinghttp://www.fullforceapps.com/tutisduino-phase1
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Several years ago while browsing LED based projects on Instructables and Hack-A-Day I stumbled upon the holy grail of geeky projects. At the time, not knowing anything about the Arduino I brushed it off as "over my head". In early November as my Programming Language Concepts class was switching from Racket (a lisp based programming language) to Occam we were instructed to design a simple project using the Arduino and program it in said language. Thus this project was born.</p>
<p>To start, let's find the original Hack-A-Day article I saw years ago... Ahhh, <a href="http://hackaday.com/2008/06/12/how-to-make-an-rgb-combination-door-lock-part-1/"><em>here it is!</em></a></p>
<p>I will be sticking with their keypad design for several reasons. The 2x4 keypad perfectly fits inside a typical double gang wall box, the pass-code will be easier to remember, and I am using a Freeduino (look <a href="http://www.concurrency.cc"><em>here</em></a> for more information) so I have limited I/O pins to work with unless I want to use shift registers.</p>
<p>The Freeduino doesn't come assembled so you'll have to do it on your own, much more fun!</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/e1MpX_WhcsJ2IJsWMylxldMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qUcQVvqTjLQ/TukKkisjlOI/AAAAAAAAAHw/3uzv3E3DzYQ/s400/51oSf9hh6FL.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>If it looks like this assembled, more than likely you did something right (minus the writing on the upper left of course).</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ttkyrBUmt0kbeTbk5gg-mtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7olo66l9AIQ/TurhidUb32I/AAAAAAAAAH8/P-sH7SzbiCY/s400/IMG-20111216-00097.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Next up: The schematic</p>
<p>To keep things simple I used the schematic from our handy Hack-A-Day article, but modified it before prototyping. Their design calls for two separate circuits, but mine will use three: Keypad, LED grid interface, and the door strike circuit, don't forget, the Arduino is a circuit too, but we don't need to build that from Scratch.The additional circuit is present due to the fact that I don't want on board voltage management built into this. The Arduino already does this and I will be using those outputs, so there is no need for duplicate hardware.</p>
<p>Starting with the keypad circuits: The breakout board from Sparkfun already nicely lays out the buttons in a two layer row/column grid. When the button push is read the Arduino will bring one keypad input line high and checks whether voltage is present at each of the four output lines per row. The diodes that we will solder on this board prevent feedback across the circuit. The schematic from sparkfun uses a bus to clean up the wiring and nicely shows the layout. Because we are only using a half board I only included exactly the remaining board pieces.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WwJYxlaoIyTzjDVVN6x3GtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V0lUTOReNMY/TwE2Uy14UYI/AAAAAAAAAKA/p0QC-JY2NHI/s400/buttonpad.jpg" height="131" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>As per my design specifications above, and the one in the linked article we will be driving the RGB LEDs using their own circuit. The brightness of each color in each LED is controlled by the digital resistor. This device allows us to adjust the intensity of the individual RGB colors giving us the ability to make many different colors, as well as adjust the brightness of those various colors. A digital resistor works similarly to a traditional potentiometer, but the chip is controlled by the Arduino instead of an outside user adjusting it with a screwdriver. Each column needs to have the ability to be turned on and off individually, this is where our LED selection circuit comes in. This circuit has a transistor for each of the four columns; by rapidly changing the resistance with our digital resistor and turning on and off the individual columns each LED can be controlled separately.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kCJQh0FmT2g0tnHImgGzg9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qGSqxdG2xh4/TwEbNm7v_aI/AAAAAAAAAJY/0wmv963Aozk/s400/led_select.jpg" height="183" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>Since I plan to use the Arduino to power everything, we won't be able to directly power the door latch as this model (as most) pulls around 1.5a at 6v. I just reused the circuit provided, which uses a TIP120 transistor to supply the power to the latch. Seeing as though the transistor can only handle DC voltage with a maximum continuous current of 5A I decided to change this to be more flexible and allow low voltage AC current also, as most door latches are AC/DC combination or strictly AC powered. To handle this I added a 5VDC relay from Radioshack that can handle up to 120VAC at 5A so we can use either power source. This is a mechanical relay and it uses an energised coil to open and close the contacts. When power is removed from a coil a current is created from the breakdown of the magnetic field. To keep this from burning out the transistor I left the diode intact to handle the surge.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PFP4ZUoK4lxO8WBwjN7CR9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-49Rr6BcmTTs/TwE4kPbRt7I/AAAAAAAAAKY/I2hkFVOWqPA/s400/doorlatch.jpg" height="147" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>In addition, when the latch is first activated we will experience a temporary voltage drop which may reset the Arduino in some circumstances. I added one additional diode and a capacitor to even out the voltage drop which is shown in the final schematic below.</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/w4HntW2lZCV1-JNXU_C6jNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R6RiywRP-eo/TwE0lle10uI/AAAAAAAAAJw/tog1uZ9r9G8/s400/schematic_revD.png" height="221" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>The latest version of the schematic for this build is available for download on the project page. Feel free to modify and use it at your will, but please provide feedback in the comments below where you find necessary!</p>
<p>Now that the design work is complete let's put together a complete parts list. The one available on the reference site is mostly applicable, but remember, some of the parts have been swapped out and some new ones are being used. In addition I am giving a full list of every part (and some tools) you will need to complete the final product, which should end up being mounted in a wall.</p>
<h3>To start the build you will need the following (links provided):</h3>
<p><strong>The circuits</strong><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Freeduino-complete-Arduino-Duemilanove-Compatible/dp/B00417REHA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324020833&amp;sr=8-1">1 - An Arduino or compatible clone</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Door-Strike-Mortise-Type/dp/B000RKVVGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324020916&amp;sr=8-3">1 - An electric door strike</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268">1 - 1N4001 diode</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587">10 - 1N4148 diodes</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062617">1 - TIP120 transistor</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062586">4 - 2n2222 transistors</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062480">1 - 5v DC Micro Relay</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062339">4 - 100 ohm resistors</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062316">2 - 150 ohm resistors</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062321">1 - 560 ohm resistor</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062343">8 - 1k ohm resistors</a><br /><a href="http://www.analog.com/en/digital-to-analog-converters/digital-potentiometers/ad5206/products/product.html">1 - AD5206 (If using my boards: Model AD5206BN10, samples available!!)</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102510">1 - 100µF Capacitor</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/7835">1 - 4x4 Button Pad</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8033">1 - 4x4 Button Pad PCB</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9264">8 - RGB LEDs (Common cathode only. I didn't use diffused but they would probably work better, same price)</a></p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5eBWvrzY-YatjuNlYQHNfNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OAHvSjPqofE/Tuum09SjqNI/AAAAAAAAAIc/x2V0ANGS8AA/s400/IMG-20111216-00099.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p><strong>If you are using my board you will also need this:</strong><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10007">1 - Arduino Stackable Header Kit</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10571">2 - 2-Pin Screw Terminals (2.54mm Pitch)</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/115">1 - Solder Strip Female Headers (Will cut to size later on)</a></p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IgBhGdN0nq7GvZt0x0glStMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8OoiHQYknZA/Tuum0wzuy_I/AAAAAAAAAIM/bWtTsVFp11I/s400/IMG-20111216-00100.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p><strong>Additional parts needed for mounting this beast:</strong><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-89-00-9031-Plastic-8-Inch/dp/B0007WTF02/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b">1 - Sheet of 1/16 plastic (I used ABS, cheaper and two part epoxy still adheres well.</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-SC100RR-Voltage-Bracket-Backless/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324065215&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr">1 - Single-gang, old construction, low voltage outlet box</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/2-GANG-OLD-WORK-LOW-VOLTAGE-BOX-BRACKET/dp/B0007N73CI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324065215&amp;sr=1-2">1 - Double-gang, old construction, low voltage outlet box</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/SUPER-SY-IN48-Instant-Epoxy-Syringe/dp/B00009V3VM/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324065388&amp;sr=1-14">Two part epoxy (This stuff sets FAST, don't get it on your fingers, trust me)</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006LUKI/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details">1 - One port, single gang, keystone wall plate</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000075B9J/ref=oh_o03_s00_i01_details">1 - Snapin keystone, USB A/A</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-88025-Wallplate-Standard-Thermoset/dp/B00004YUK2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1324065783&amp;sr=8-9">1 - Two-gang blank wall plate</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B6PH/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details">1 - USB A to Mini-B Cable (Interface between Arduino and wall plate)</a><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I9B2AU/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details">1 - USB Type A Male / Type A Male Cable (Interface between wall plate and PC for programming in-wall</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8763">6 - Screws (For mounting the keypad in the box)</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10927">1 - Pack of nylon standoffs (Used as nuts for the screws, they can be trimmed easily)</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/119">1 - DC Barrel jack connector</a><br /><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103612">1 - DC power tip (make sure type matches barrel jack you get)</a><br /><a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10445">1 - Switch of your choice (To power on and off from control panel. I used a cool keyed switch for this.)</a></p>
<p>**I don't have a picture of this stuff. I was over-ambitions and built this forgetting to take photos along the way.**</p>
<p><strong>Miscellaneous supplies:</strong><br />
Breadboard<br />
Lots of jumper wires<br />
IC puller (I didn't use one but you have to be very careful when pulling the IC out of the board, bent pins = bad)<br />
Some random LEDs for debugging.<br />
Lots of 20 gauge wire<br />
Wire strippers<br />
Wire cutters<br />
A good multimeter<br />
Soldering iron, base, and sponge<br />
Lead free solder (PCB is lead free, easier to flow joints if it matches)<br />
Heated exacto knife (unheated is fine, just more tedious to use)<br />
Dremel</p>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1YaKBpFj7bk5KVvohSiDcdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yV3g_ejZ_e8/Tuum0zDWARI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/e0SQ6zSCkqc/s400/West%252520Mead-20111216-00098.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td>
</tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/106522215494262270299/TutisduinoBuild?authuser=0&amp;feat=embedwebsite">Tutisduino Build</a></td>
</tr></table><p>... oh, and don't forget a door to install this into.</p>
<p>Do you FINALLY have everything? Too anxious and want to look ahead?<br />
Check out <a href="tutisduino-phase2"><strong>Part 2 - Building the Prototype</strong></a></p>
</div></div></div><div class="field field-name-field-blog-tag field-type-taxonomy-term-reference field-label-above"><div class="field-label">Tags::&nbsp;</div><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/8" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Tutisduino</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/9" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">LED</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/10" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Doorlock</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/12" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Arduino</a></div><div class="field-item even"><a href="/taxonomy/term/11" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">RGB</a></div><div class="field-item odd"><a href="/taxonomy/term/20" typeof="skos:Concept" property="rdfs:label skos:prefLabel" datatype="">Security</a></div></div></div>Wed, 14 Dec 2011 20:05:36 +0000Braden29 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/tutisduino-phase1#commentsSome Subdomains to Expire Soon!http://www.fullforceapps.com/content/some-subdomains-expire-soon
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>As part of a reorganization effort at fullforceapps.com, several subdomains hosting old, unused sites will be removed effective <strong>July 1, 2010.</strong> While these sites have been dormant for some time now, they will be archived prior to removal.</p>
<p>The subdomains affected are:</p>
<ul><li><a href="http://ff3.developers.fullforceapps.com">FullForce Redevelopment Site</a></li>
<li><a href="http://flowersale.fullforceapps.com">Publications Carnation Sale</a></li>
<li><a href="http://hoops4haiti.fullforceapps.com">Hoops4Haiti Shirt Sale</a></li>
<li><a href="http://srsurvey.fullforceapps.com">High Post Senior Survey</a></li>
</ul></div></div></div>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 20:35:27 +0000Devin17 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/content/some-subdomains-expire-soon#commentsWelcome to the new FullForce Applications website!http://www.fullforceapps.com/content/welcome-new-fullforce-applications-website
<div class="field field-name-body field-type-text-with-summary field-label-hidden"><div class="field-items"><div class="field-item even" property="content:encoded"><p>Welcome to the new FullForce Applications website. We've totally reworked much of the site from scratch to improve user experiences all around! We'll be adding new content over the coming days and weeks to make your experience at FullForce Applications even better! Plus, there are a few more tricks up our sleeves.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, due to the nature of the site relaunch, all previous content, including user accounts, were removed. <em>If you previously had an account on this site, please <a href="http://www.fullforceapps.com/user/register">go here</a> to recreate it.</em> If there were any important content items that are now missing, please contact us either through the contact form at the top of the page, or in a comment to this article and we will work to get it reposted.</p>
<p>We welcome all feedback! If you have a concern, problem, or suggestion, feel free to contact us using the methods mentioned above.</p>
<p>Welcome to the new FullForce Applications!</p>
</div></div></div>Thu, 14 Jan 2010 01:29:24 +0000Devin8 at http://www.fullforceapps.comhttp://www.fullforceapps.com/content/welcome-new-fullforce-applications-website#comments