I have set up a chinook adjustable outhaul for my big sails (first time using an adjustable outhaul). The instructions were pretty good and the set up was straightforward. Only problem is now the clamp comes loose when I give the outhaul a good pull to tighten the sail. I have tightened it as tight as I can. The kit came with 2 clamps, and I am using the smaller of the clamps. After it happened the first time I wrapped some old neoprene around the boom and then tightened the clamp over that. The clamp came loose again as I was rigging up today.

I USED THE CHINOOK OUTHAUL UNTIL THE CLAMPS SLIPPED AND TORE THE GRIP MATERIAL ON THE BOOM. NOW I USE THE SAILWORKS TIE ON SYSTEM, AND IT WORKS GREAT WITHOUT SLIPPING OR DAMAGING THE GRIP MATERIAL. 4MM LINE IS ALSO EASIER ON THE HANDS THAN THE CLAMP AND CLEAT THAT CHINOOK USES.

you need to add a less compressible rubber, and just enough of it to be able to catch the threads with the screw. Then screw it down a bit, wait overnight for the cells in the rubber to relax, then screw it down more until it'll hold the cleat. This worked for me. I use the thin rubber grippy stuff you wrap around jar lids to loosen them.

I had the same problem, and tried the same solution (pieces of neoprene). It still slipped, so about a year ago I used neoprene, but then fastened it by tightly wrapping electrical tape. This also allows you to build it up until it's exactly the right thickness. My tape covers about 4" of the boom, and I kind of tapered it on either side, adding a little extra thickness to the clew side to keep it from slipping down. But that hasn't been an issue. Did two booms that way, and they haven't moved one bit under all kinds of abuse. .
If that didn't work, I was going to buy some hose clamps to use as stoppers on the clew side, then tape them so the wouldn't cut anything. Obviously, you'd have to get stainless.

Also, I'd stay with the Chinook system, but one thing to do to really dial it in is replace the clew block with a harken double block (attached w/ horseshoe capture), replace the two stock single blocks, and upgrade to better line. For the tail sections, you can use something really light, like 1/8 spectra, then get a more pliable line for the clamcleat section.
I followed someone's suggestions on the web, but can't find the page now.

Try rigging tape instead of the black rubber inserts or other materials that go over the boom, before the clamp is installed. Rigging tape is a white rubber tape, without adhesive, that is used to cover turnbuckles and other things that might chafe sails on sailboats. It can be purchased at West Marine. I wrap on the amount needed to make for a tight connection and they never slip. An extra wrap towards the tail also helps to prevent slipping.. It is way better than the rubber pads that come with the clamps.

Use a couple plastic zip ties around the boom. Splice them together (use two or three for each cleat) so that the locking mechanism (the little "nub") of each zip tie acts as a stop against the cleat. Essentially you will end up with two or three plastic stops resting against the back edge of each cleat so it can't slide backwards. Then trim off the excess zip tie as close as you can to the locking mechanism.

I did this on one of my booms with the Chinook cleats and they never budged.

I thought the chinook kit came with some dense rubber shims but maybe that is a thing of the past. I have 4 booms set up with the Chinook system and they never slip. I would go with a dense rubber, maybe cut up an old innertube into 1" x 2" rectangles and you can stack them as needed depending on your boom thickness. Agree you might have to check them occassionally and retighten. if you screw them together and the sides of the clamp touch, add more shim material and leave yourself room to tighten later.

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