Fascinating food in New York and occasionally farther afield

Yu Kitchen

Solid neighborhood Chinese — eggplant with garlic sauce, sour and spicy fern-root noodles, Chung King beef with soft tofu, and spicy chicken with handmade noodles — a short walk south from Columbia. The chef, we were told, is not from Chung King, or even Chongqing, but Chengdu.