Now is the time to redress the death of lawns

AP File PhotoThe great drought of 2012 may be over, but its impact continues to be felt across the state.

The great drought of 2012 may be over, but its impact continues to be felt across the state — one backyard at a time.

Lawns in particular bore the brunt, especially lawns on sandy sites. Fortunately, we are entering the best period for lawn restoration. Early fall is considered the best time to over-seed, because conditions are ideal: Soil is warm even as daytime temperatures are moderate and the sun’s powerful rays are less intense.

For many, it will be a labor of love — or at least a lot of labor.

Making amends

Aside from a lack of water, other factors contribute to the death of a lawn, such as compacted soil, infertile soil and careless use of herbicides.

Heavier clay soils compact quicker than sandy sites, but soil compaction is nondiscriminating. It is most common in backyards pounded by kids and pets or well-worn shortcuts around the yard.

Renting a core aerator is a great way to reduce the pressure. These intimidating machines, remove plugs of soil that look like cigar butts. Newly created voids allow turf roots to expand and water to penetrate, rather than drain off.

For sandy sites, you may have to bring in a few loads of top soil before over-seeding. It’s helpful to mix in sphagnum peat, a light, loose soil conditioner that retains water and allows oxygen to penetrate.

Testing the soil’s pH level to determine whether it is too acidic or too alkaline has incalculable benefits when growing grass. A soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic) is ideal. Use lime to raise (or sweeten) the pH and sulfur to lower the pH.

Networks of twisted, compacted roots make it difficult for seedlings to penetrate the soil, especially if the surface is a mat of dead grass. Removing dead turf is the best way to ensure long-term results, but it is work.

Use a hard rake to pull out dead grass and cultivate the soil beneath. Dethatching rakes are useful in lawns growing atop a thick layer of dead vegetation called thatch.

Once dead grass is removed, turn the soil with a shovel or spading fork and break up the clumps so remaining roots can be raked out.

Before applying grass seed, mow the area one level lower than your usual mowing height and run a hard rake or garden cultivator over the soil a final time.

Selecting the right grass seed increases the likelihood of success. Kentucky bluegrass — the Cadillac of lawn seed, is slow to germinate but fills in nicely on lawns with rich soil and ample sun.

Fescues are more drought and shade tolerant and work well for sandy soils and beneath trees.

Perennial rye is a good, economical option for large areas. Mixing perennial rye with other seed blends is tactically sound; seeds germinate in about a week and help hold soil in place until slower-germinating varieties take root.

Broadcast seed with a spreader to ensure it is evenly distributed. Mix the seed into the soil with a leaf rake or a hard rake, making sure the soil level is flush with areas of existing lawn.

For good measure, apply a starter lawn fertilizer over newly seeded areas.

With intense labor completed, the final — and most vital — step is keeping seed watered.

Water wonderland

Soil needs to stay uniformly moist until grass germinates and gets a toehold. This is especially true once seed begins to sprout. Denying fledging seed ample water for even one day can be fatal.

Keep traffic to a minimum in seeded areas. If seed is growing among a patchwork of established lawn, use a push mower — not a rider, and stay off the barren soil as much as possible.

Remember, different seeds germinate at different rates. It may take three or more weeks for it all to come up. Falling leaves should be blown, or gently raked, where fledging grass seed is growing.

Don’t forget about mowing. As seeded areas fill in and grass starts falling over on itself, give it a first cut. Raise the mower height; you don’t want to scalp it. Grass blades are sending food to the roots and don’t take kindly to being scalped.

Even if the area looks sparse a few months from now, don’t be too concerned. Roots continue to grow beneath the soil, even if top growth isn’t apparent. It’ll thicken up nicely next spring, drought conditions notwithstanding.