Hello champagne, where have you been? It’s shocking but true that champagne, forever linked with success, celebration and winning, has slacked in sales in the past few years.

As the price tag for true Champagnes got a little hefty, some of the joy seemed to go out of drinking it. No one likes a financial hangover. But don’t say goodbye to Champagne yet. In the end, there is nothing quite like a perfectly made true Champagne (made in the area north and east of Paris, as designated by French law and recognized by international law).

Popping a cork on a Tête du Cuvée (the wine produced from the first pressing of the grapes) after it has been rested quietly on lees for six to eight years is a great sensory experience. Making true Champagne is an art and is very expensive; the cost reflects this. The good news is that bubbles are roaring back. We hope it’s an indication of an improving economy. And that’s something we can celebrate.

Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne, France ($207): This is a non-vintage Tête du Cuvée. It is, however, the benchmark for great wine made in Champagne. It’s the spectacular result of 20 years, multiple vintages, more than 100 wines, a touch of neutral oak aging, and all the passion and secrets that accompany all of those things. When Krug is good, it’s the best. Krug has a complex winelike character. It tastes of toast, pie crust, apple, baking spice, red fruit and hazelnuts. 99 points.

2003 Dom Perignon Champagne, France ($185): Dom is famous, Dom is good, Dom is sometimes great. This vintage is tasting a little tight, intense and focused. That’s great with oysters and Parmesan cheese. It is a very good sign for its potential aging. This one will need time to gain toasty complexity. It will get there. Enjoy its verve now or its richness later. 95 points.

Henriot Champagne, France ($49): This is a lovely and balanced Champagne. The aroma has citrus, yellow apple and some fresh-baked bread. The taste is vibrant with toast and fruit notes and a clean finish. A very good value. 90 points.

G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge Champagne, France ($40): This is a nice choice for a deeper style. There is more red fruit and weight on the palate, while the taste is still balanced and clean. 87 points.

Taittinger Brut Champagne, France ($54): Tiny bubbles, oh yeah! This is the most delicate and elegant of all NV Champagnes. Its lovely use of Chardonnay is reflected in the creamy, smooth mouth feel and taste. 90 points.

Charles Heidsieck Brut Champagne, France ($52): Often underrated, this robust Champagne is buttery like a brioche, with a nice balance in aromas and flavors. 87 points.

All that sparkles is not Champagne. The hesitation to invest in pricey bubblies opened other doors in the past seven years. Other sparkling options had a chance to gain popularity, with Prosecco the clear winner as quality and availability rose significantly.

Iron Horse Ocean Reserve, Green Valley, Sonoma County, Calif. ($36): One of the best, if not the best, California sparkling-wine producers. Much in the way Krug is made, Iron Horse is wine first and last. The bubbles are crafted and placed there to enhance the joy of it all. If this isn’t available, there are several styles that Iron Horse makes. 90 points.

Secco Prosecco, Italy ($18): There are a number of wonderful Proseccos available, like Mionetto and Ca’Vittoria Brut. This one is super clean, well made, enjoyable and inexpensive. 86 points.

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