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I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.

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I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.

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You mean a GS type press? I do have one, but for some reason I didn't think it would work on my monocoque Wittnauers, etc. My thinking is that the GS press that I have, you have to put the crystal facing down in the support. The case, generally without a back, has to go over the plunger facing downward in order drop over the crystal. With the one-piece case, the back is not removable, so the plunger cannot pass through a bezel or open back case. Am I wrong, or is this a different type than you are referring to?

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Just used it the other day to fit a 14.4mm crystal onto a late 1950s ladies Certina.

That's the smallest crystal I've fitted and it was nearly at the limit of my tool as I just have the cheap Anchor brand one, but it has worked every time I have used it..

You also need the small base for holding the crystal for the tool to work though, this makes the claw grip the crystal just off the base of it so you can drop the crystal home whilst still compressed and then release the tension and it just expands into place.

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I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.

I wouldn't say it is *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.

Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

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just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

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just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

I find removing the crystal May be ok, however, installing it with those very touchy claws is way too difficult.

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I was going to nominate one of these... ... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches. Sacrilege to my eyes. Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.

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I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool. I wouldn't say it is *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals. Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

I too use my thumbs to pop out the crystal and a front loader would need the claws??

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I grabbed the crystal with the claws, then held the lift tool between my knees and gave the movement plate a playful tap with a plastic rod and the useless tool I mentioned above.

Not the most subtle method, but very reliable for sending the watch in to orbit, and you do need to do that at least once a week, or you 'aint trying hard enough. Second try worked like a charm, and the movement, crystal and movement plate parted with the case quite nicely.

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I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with. Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?

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I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with. Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?

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I wonder if I could scale that up to work with my aircraft clocks as the NOS alloy mainsprings I've got I can't wind in by hand and they are too big for all my watch spring winders and too small for my clock spring winders.

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You could get one of each size from Cousins and by trial and error fit the one best suited. Also a suitable set of hands ordered at the same time would leave a spare complete movement and a repaired clock for less than the ebay item.

I do and I know others that do too, but not everyone agrees.
Acetone breaks down dried oil better than naphta, but is nasty stuff and very flammable. I keep my bottle of it in the shed and oil put about 10 mils in a small jar to use inside
One Dip solution would be best, but its very expensive.
You will find there is no 'one way only' to do things, but many ways all with their pluses and minuses, you just need to choose the way that works best for you.
The most important thing is to check the endstone is actually clean before oiling and assembling