Mon, 05 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Mon, 05 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800It is a premier destination inn designed from the ground up for comfort, relaxation, and serenity. Bella Collina is situated on a hillside with views of vineyards, farmlands, and the Coast Range. The inn features seven deluxe guest suites, a spacious great room where breakfast is served, a large common area deck, and a third floor Sky Loft with an incredible view where the sunsets are most magnificent. Each of our luxurious guest rooms has been designed to maximize the pleasure of visiting the Willamette Valley.

Call 541-272-1700 or 503-550-6056 to arrange private tours of the inn. Melody, Scott, and their innkeeper, Sherwood, would love to show off Willamette Valley's newest luxury accommodations. Visit our website to see photos and make reservations www.bellacollinabnb.com

]]>Mon, 05 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800((img|BarrelofPossibilities_2.jpg))

Next, the wood is air-dried for an average of 12 to 36 months. Rain and weather extract the tannins; the drier the wood, the less tannins it will have and the longer it will take for the wine to integrate with the oak. ##Photos provided by Tonnellerie Allary

It’s no secret: Winemakers take their barrels very seriously, which makes the following true story sound almost comical. When asked which is his most important tool in barrel selection? Steve Girard, owner of Benton-Lane Winery, replies: “My cheese grater.”

The longtime winemaker told the story about how his cooperage, the company that makes barrels, started sending him different barrels from what he’d selected. On his next barrel trip to Burgundy, he brought a cheese grater with him. Walking among the impressively tall stacks of drying staves, he rubbed them with his grater. He noted the aromatics, which he later compared to the barrels he was shipped. If they didn’t match his descriptions, he returned the barrels.

Much like an artist’s palette adds vibrancy and dimension to a canvas, a winemaker’s choice of barrel has a significant impact on wine. And like the painter’s range of color, there’s a multitude of options in a cooperage. From the type of wood (oak, acacia, chestnut…) to the wood’s origin (Oregon, France, Hungary, Russia…), to the grain, the toast, the size of vessel and whether the barrel is new, used or neutral, all these elements impart specific aromas, flavors and textures to a wine.

“Speaking to winemakers about barrels is like talking politics or religion,” said Anne Amie Vineyards winemaker Thomas Houseman. “Conversation can quickly get heated, as each winemaker feels their particular view on barrels is the Holy Grail.”

Each has an opinion on oak, toast, coopers, etc., that will likely vary greatly from one to the next. No one is necessarily right or wrong, but the decisions play greatly into what becomes a winemaker’s signature style.

((img|BarrelofPossibilities_3.jpg))

The wood is then heated and shaped into curved staves, which are stacked inside a hoop, tightened with lasso, and another hoop is positioned on the bottom. The barrel is then pre-heated and shaped under fire to make the wood pliable before the hoops are pounded down to tighten the vessel. ##Photos provided by Tonnellerie Allary

Nicholas Keeler is the North American sales director for Tonnellerie Allary, a French cooperage making barrels since 1953. Keeler understands each cooper has a distinct style and may work with different forests. His 11 years of experience selling barrels, along with his knowledge as a winemaker for Authentique, has shaped his preference for French oak, which he considers the most elegant and refined on the market.

Some believe forests exhibit their own personalities — akin to terroir. Coopers sourcing from prestigious French forests, such as Tronçais, Fontainebleau and Jupilles demand higher prices. Comparing French oak to American, the former is more porous and must be split by hand, along the grain. The latter is less porous and richer in tyloses, which seal the xylem vessels so it may be quarter-sawn. American oak from Minnesota, Missouri and Indiana fit the bill, while white oak from the Southeast is generally used for whiskey. Oregon white oak is its own species and can be used in wine barrels, but it does contain higher tannins, requiring longer seasoning.

Cody Parker, wine director of Melrose Vineyards, doesn’t care to taste the wood in his wines.

“If the barrel can be tasted, the wine is generally out of balance,” he said. “A well-balanced wine is one where all its components — fruit, acidity, structure and alcohol — neither overwhelm nor diminish [one] another. The success is in finesse and restraint, but how to get there is up to interpretation.”

((img|BarrelofPossibilities_4.jpg))

Finally, the barrel is toasted using one of two techniques: (a) All fire (traditional Bordeaux style that shows more spice); or (b) Fire and water (which opens pores of the oak and softens the tannins). ##Photos provided by Tonnellerie Allary

Parker emphasizes a wine should be about the fruit, not the oak program — which can translate into ego if not kept in check.

“Producers that think their [wine’s] density balances with 200-percent new oak — sorry, Napa — miss the mark showcasing the fruit and terroir.”

Houseman says it was not so long ago when people wanted, and even expected, to taste the barrel in a wine. In fact, if you examine highly reviewed and collectible wines, this is still often the case. Not all winemakers agree with that notion, but many have chased the scores.

While some Oregon Pinots from the early-, mid-, and even late-2000s taste heavily of oak, a new generation of winemakers is emerging, rebelling against oak, perhaps in response to the excesses of the past.

“It’s never cool to like what your parents liked, and the millennials are looking at other styles,” Houseman remarked. “Though I find myself somewhere in the middle.”

It’s all about style and decisions made in the cellar.

“Wines that are aged with a high percentage of the correct new oak may still be elegant and balanced. It depends both on the wine and the cooperage,” Keeler said.

In fact, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Oregon, California and Washington all include producers who age certain wines in 100-percent new oak.

At Anne Amie, Houseman uses about 20-percent new oak in the cellar, and he is shifting from fire-bent barrels to water-bent versions. The process of soaking the staves before bending protects the wood from the flames, producing steam as it heats rather than allowing the wood to burn, or toast. Houseman believes this method helps fill out the wine, providing the desired body without overwhelming it.

((script|Author Belgard))

Though French oak is still a dominant player in most Oregon cellars — and for good reason — one wood does not fit all. Local winemakers are looking globally for inspiration, incorporating techniques and styles common to other regions. Remy Drabkin of Remy Wines chose chestnut barrels to finish her Nebbiolo, producing more spice and mid-palate depth to the wine.

Chestnut barrels, now rare in the U.S., were commonly used in Europe before the chestnut blight of the 1950s wiped them out worldwide. Chad Stock of Minimus Wines has found that less aromatic varieties like Chardonnay, Vermentino or Pinot Blanc — and even lighter reds such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc or Gamay Noir — respond well to this type of wood.

Because chestnut lacks the vanillin and lactone compounds of oak when it’s toasted, it doesn’t turn sweet the way oak can.

“The wood is decidedly nutty,” Stock explained, “which sounds cliché, but it really has a dry sensation, similar to the skin of an almond or walnut.”

Instead of making the wines rich and broad-textured like oak, they become more focused and fresh, with dusty fine tannins. Since chestnut is more porous than oak, the wine sees more oxygen through the walls of the barrel and ages a little faster — a technique, if used correctly, can become a strategic tool for early wine release.

Winemaker Herb Quady of Quady North feels excited about acacia; he uses it for aromatic varieties like Viognier.

“Fermenting in barrel always adds texture and creamy notes to white wines, but aromatic wines like Viognier tend to lose their profile in oak,” he said. “Acacia is more subtle and promotes the desirable tropical notes in my wine.”

Acacia is also commonly used in Grüner Veltliner and Sauvignon Blanc, which benefit from the high wood tannins that integrate into the wine, adding tension where it might show a natural tendency to be broad in texture. Acacia is known to add floral and spice characteristics, such as orange blossom and rose hip, as well as peach pit, clove, cinnamon and allspice.

Only a few cooperages currently make acacia barrels, but Quady is so happy with the results, he purchases more every year. Several other Oregon wineries, like Anne Amie, Leah Jorgensen Cellars, Montinore, Minimus and Raptor Ridge, have also discovered the benefits of acacia barrels.

Next time you walk into a cellar and notice a stack of barrels, remember, not all barrels are created equal, and the choice of barrels directly affects a winemaker’s expression of taste. Today, many Oregon winemakers rely less on what is expected — breaking the rigid traditions of yesteryear — in favor of instinct, experimentation and embracing individuality, in large part, through their choice of barrels.

How It’s Made

Making barrels at Tonnellerie Allary in France. 1. First, the log is either split or quarter-sewn, depending on the type of wood. 2. Next, the wood is air-dried for an average of 12 to 36 months. Rain and weather extract the tannins; the drier the wood, the less tannins it will have and the longer it will take for the wine to integrate with the oak. 3. The wood is then heated and shaped into curved staves, which are stacked inside a hoop, tightened with lasso, and another hoop is positioned on the bottom. The barrel is then pre-heated and shaped under fire to make the wood pliable before the hoops are pounded down to tighten the vessel. 4. Finally, the barrel is toasted using one of two techniques: (a) All fire (traditional Bordeaux style that shows more spice); or (b) Fire and water (which opens pores of the oak and softens the tannins).

Size Matters

Barrels come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes: The standard Burgundy barrel is 228 liters, but they can be as small as 1-liter (for hobby winemakers). A puncheon holds 500 liters; a demi-muid, 600; and oval-shaped foudres, 1,000 to 6,000 liters. Upright oak tanks can offer the most volume, ranging from 600 to 30,000 liters. Note: the larger the vessel, the less oak flavor is imparted on the wine.

Oregon Made

Oregon Barrel Works, located in McMinnville, is the only cooperage in the Pacific Northwest. Combining Old World traditions with New World innovations, they custom-craft barrels and puncheons from Oregon, French and Hungarian oak.

Love Stories to Start

Wrigley Vineyards, Sheridan

At J. Wrigley Vineyards, romance is rooted as deeply as the vines with owners John and Jody Wrigley igniting the spark on site. “We met in Oregon wine country 11 years ago and had our very first kiss on our property less than 24 hours later,” John said. “It was love at first Pinot, for sure.” Four months later, John proposed at the property surrounded by stumps and brush.

The passion-fueled vision was clear though: They planted their first Pinot Noir and called the spot Proposal Block. More recently, John planted another block for his wife, a self-proclaimed “Chardonnay hound.” They christened the block “Acceptance.”

Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston

At Elk Cove, visitors can hike to the top of La Bohème Vineyard for a little privacy combined with stunning views of the Coastal Range. Not many know how the trek represents the 50-year love story of founders Joe and Pat Campbell. Their daughter, Anna Campbell, the winery’s creative director, tells the story:

“Over 50 years ago, when Joe Campbell was basically a kid, he convinced his dad to let him borrow the car. He and his sweetheart, Pat, drove the winding three-hour drive from Hood River to Portland to listen to the opera La Bohème in a record shop.”

The Campbells planted La Bohème in 1985, named it in honor of that special date and their favorite Puccini piece. It must have been fate because Bohème just happened to be the name of the family who first homesteaded the property.

((img|Kiss_DomaineSerene.jpg))

Domaine Serene ##Photo by Sasquatch PR

Underground

Domaine Serene, Dayton

Down limestone stairs and into the Burgundian-inspired cave, couples can find private alcoves for cozy conversations inside the winery’s Clubhouse, where numerous decks and fireplaces upstairs also make for wonderfully romantic opportunities.

Archery Summit, Dayton

The cool caves at Archery Summit are the perfect place to steal a kiss; the low arched ceilings, warm glow of the lights against the stone and cellar temps encourage cuddling, too. Proposals on the upper terrace have inspired candle-lit, rose petal-strewn private wine tastings in the heart of the subterranean space. Couples can further celebrate at the winery’s Red Hills Estate Guest House with 270-degree vineyard views, high ceilings and cozy furnishings.

((img|Kiss_ReustlePrayerRock.jpg))

Reustle Prayer Rock ##Photo provided

Reustle Prayer Rock, Roseburg

Nearly every part of Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards appears designed for a special moment. Stepping on the property is like entering a magical land as the Old World-style architecture and gardens establish a truly romantic atmosphere. Many a marriage proposal has happened at the “Prayer Rock” itself, affording a stunning panorama of the Umpqua Valley. Below in the intimate catacombs, declarations of love have happened, too. Lovers can also reserve the “dock houses" for quiet afternoons on the pond, where swans can be seen in heart formation.

Along a Path

((script|Author Helm))

Tyee Wine Cellars, Corvallis

Tyee Wine Cellars sits on a 130-plus-year-old family farm with hushed paths through sturdy moss-covered vines, hazelnut orchards, cathedral oaks, woodlands, ponds and streams. The outdoor spaces are popular for hiking, birdwatching and romantic picnics. A sunny day allows visitors the chance to hike the 1.5-mile Beaver Pond Loop Nature Trail and maybe steal a kiss deep in the shade.

Saffron Fields Vineyard, Yamhill

Saffron Fields was designed for moments of tranquility. A meandering path leads from the tasting room to a patio overlooking Thales Pond. Guests can sip and stroll through the Zen-style garden among cascading waterfalls and ethereal sculptures. Benches offer places to rest along the path and a modern fire pit with lounge chairs make a for a great spot for a wine country caress.

Keeler Estate Vineyard, Amity

While Biodynamic grapegrowing may not sound romantic, the results can be. The team at Keeler Estate has built a complete ecosystem to promote healthy soils and vines; this means guests can enjoy a pretty pond with floating ducks while honeybees buzz around landscapes of blackberries, wildflowers and fruit trees. All can be taken in with a glass of wine while wandering the walking path surrounding the water. Take a brief detour across the footbridge for a secret rendezvous under the grand oaks.

Delfino Vineyards, Roseburg

With more 160 acres of hiking trails teeming with wildlife, Delfino offers the privacy and grandeur some couples seek for a special day, and night. The winery’s cozy guest cottage features a canoe-ready pond, perfect for watching the sun set behind the spectacular Callahan Mountains. Upon waking, breakfast awaits in your room.

Under the Trees

White Rose Estate, Dayton

The billowing willow tree at White Rose Estate remains a favorite for marriage proposals. Standing under the tree lends a new meaning to the phrase “as far as the eye can see.” A clear day offers views of Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson and two of the Sisters.

Left Coast Cellars, Rickreall

The 500-acre landscape of Left Coast Cellars represents a labor of love and a perfect place for lovers. The beauty of the estate inspired the family to move to Oregon. Cultivated gardens, fields of wildflowers, meticulously tended vines and a hundred acres of old-growth Oregon White Oak create a nature-filled retreat. Plan an entire date with a visit to the café for wood-fired pizza and other light fare. For a really special moment, take your lover on a vineyard tour, ending above the wine cave with a panoramic view of the vineyards and lake; then plant the smooch.

In a Room

((img|Kiss_Youngberg.jpg))

Youngberg Hill ##Photo provided

Youngberg Hill, McMinnville

Time spent at Youngberg Hill in McMinnville makes nearly everyone a hopeless romantic. Surrounded by vines, the inn — offering well-appointed rooms with fireplaces, Jacuzzis and a wine country breakfast — captures views that seemingly never end. Couples can while away an afternoon gazing at mountain peaks on the wrap-around deck expansive enough for cozying up with a glass removed from other guests. Owners Wayne and Nicolette Bailey relish adding subtle touches making special moments even more memorable.

Red Ridge Farms, Dayton

Red Ridge Farms delights the senses. Visit the gift shop and pamper your skin with a lavender-infused lotion. Touch your lips with the tangy tastes of an assortment of olive oils; then wander outside to gaze at the olive trees and lavender, where the scents will linger in your memory. After tasting through a flight of Durant Vineyards estate wines, retire to the Garden Suite. Enjoy incredible vineyard views, rustic wood beams and luxurious linens.

The Allison Inn & Spa, Newberg

For the quintessential Willamette Valley luxury resort experience, The Allison Inn & Spa is unsurpassed. Two words: couple’s massage. Stay the night and have plenty of time to snuggle by the fireplace — found in every room — or share a smooch on a private terrace or by the infinity pool. If you are in love enough to share dessert, order the decadent dark chocolate Pinot Noir cake from Jory Restaurant. If you’ve been married a while, maybe order two.

On a Perch

((img|Kiss_Anne-Amie.jpg))

Anne Amie ##Photo provided

Brooks Winery, Amity

Brooks offers numerous distinctive venues for savoring a glass or sharing a bottle. Sneak a kiss inside or out, but definitely try the red Adirondack chairs. One guest wrote, “Sitting on the deck makes you feel like you’re on top of the world.”

Anne Amie Vineyards, Carlton

Anne Amie has it all: premium wine, art, decks, views, gardens and hammocks. Head there for a sip and a peck.

Stoller Family Estate, Dayton

“Couples have always been drawn to the tire swing tree and usually head there hand-in-hand,” said Stoller’s Vic Panichkul. Just far enough away from the tasting room to feel a little secluded, it has become a popular spot for proposals; in his one and a half years at the winery, he’s already helped plan 20.

In a Barn

Carlton Hill Vineyard, Carlton

An engineer once told owner David Polite how the old Carlton Hill barn would make a great fire. Good thing he didn’t listen. Instead, Polite restored it in 1996, transforming the structure into a whimsically rustic spot, lending charm to many weddings and anniversaries over the years. Polite says, “It seems a century-old barn brings out the best in us.” Tastings are private and by appointment only, perfect for the more intimate experience.

((img|Kiss_Lumos.jpg))

Lumos Wine Co. ##Photo by Dai Crisp

Lumos Wine Co., Wren

On a historic family farm sits what owner Dai Crisp lovingly calls the “big ol’ barn,” Lumos’ tasting room where wine flows next to a cozy woodstove. Views of the Oregon Coast Range and a unique shot of Marys Peak never disappoint. One of the original 1940s guest cabins is available for lodging. Crisp’s son and part of the Lumos team, Boone McCoy-Crisp, offers this description: “Secluded enough to be intimate, with a view so grand, it’s hard to believe nobody’s house gets in the way, the big ol’ barn has a long history of being a place people come to fall more in love.”

By the Fire

((img|Kiss_Solena.jpg))

Soléna estate ##Photo provided

Soléna Estate, Yamhill

Spend an afternoon inside or out in front of Soléna Estate’s intimate fireplaces. The crackling flames and handcrafted wines provide the perfect atmosphere for quiet conversations and togetherness.

Ruby Vineyard, Hillsboro

Ruby Vineyard includes a cozy tasting room with a fireplace and a clear view of Mount Hood. The adjoining vineyard, right in front of where you park when visiting Ruby, was planted in 1973, and its gentle slope is a perfect place to capture a kiss. Ruby is also the 40th anniversary gemstone, and many couples make their way to the winery to celebrate their happy union.

Björnson Vineyard, Salem

The beautiful stone fireplace is a romantic finishing touch in their recently opened tasting room. The craftsmanship is a reminder that Mark Björnson’s skill as a stonemason helped pay for his college education and his wooing of wife Pattie.

((img|Kiss_Ponzi.jpg))

Ponzi Vineyards ##Photo provided

Ponzi Vineyards, Sherwood

Enjoy a wine-soaked sunset warmed by the fire table on Ponzi Vineyard’s covered terrace. Or sink into a loveseat fireside while taking in the vineyard landscape through Ponzi’s windows designed for the view.

Colene Clemens, Newberg

Enjoy Colene Clemens’ warm, cozy setting. The slower pace of the season creates the opportunity to spend an afternoon sipping wine, warming up next to the flames and enjoying an intimate conversation cuddled up in oversized leather chairs.

((img|Kiss_AntiquumFarm.jpg))

Antiquum Farm ##Photo provided

Antiquum Farm, Junction City

Built by Antiquum Farm owners Stephen and Niki Hagen along with Stephen’s dad, the little cottage was constructed with love — the couple had just been married — using beams from a decrepit house on the property in the weathered-looking fireplace and some of the siding for the ceilings in the nearby tasting room. The cottage was intentionally designed to create a series of small areas where guests enjoy a sense of solitude in a cozy, quiet, charming setting, perfect for a peck or two.

((img|Kiss_DomaineDivio.jpg))

Domaine Divio ##Photo provided

Domaine Divio, Newberg

Planning an engagement or special occasion? Talk to Bruno Corneaux, owner/vintner at Domaine Divio, to add a little French flair. He describes an engagement last year that started a tradition. “I have decided to offer to sign and date a bottle for couples who want to get engaged at our winery.” Corneaux fuels his fireplace with 40-year-old Dundee Hills vine stocks; he has enough for at least two years. What are you waiting for?

Domaine Roy et Fils, Dundee

Cuddle when warmed by the fireplace for a rustic-chic wine country experience. Or pretend you are on a faraway trip. The 35-year-old olive trees from an Italian clone allow the imaginative to close their eyes and pretend they are in Italy.

Surrounded by Views

((img|Kiss_BellsUp.jpg))

Bells Up ##Photo provided

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Turner

What many call the “sexiest tasting room in Oregon,” the estate tasting room at Willamette Valley Vineyards hits all the marks: piano music, warming fire, amazing views, decadent food, fabulous lodging. But it is the “iconic” tower that seals the deal. With a 360-degree view, the backdrop to your kiss can include the Cascade Mountains and the Coastal Range with rolling vineyards in the mix. Even on a busy day, this spot feels quiet and secluded. Sweethearts rush up with a conspiring giggle and drift back down with telltale grins and sometimes new rings — it has long been a location for wedding proposals.

Fairsing Vineyard, Yamhill

Nestled within an 80-acre forest, Fairsing Vineyard is distinguished by exquisite estate-grown wines, inspired hospitality and sweeping panoramic views of the Valley. Enjoy both the beauty and bounty of Fairsing, from generous exterior patios, intimate seating areas and cozy fireplaces. Stroll the enchanting labyrinth and drink in majestic vistas showcasing peaks from the Cascades to the Coast Range.

Maryhill Winery, Goldendale, WA

The tasting room at Maryhill Winery definitely strikes an impressive chord. Stepping through the doors, guests are immediately greeted by Mount Hood framed in the west windows. Cozy chairs and a fireplace in the main room add to the comfy atmosphere. Tasting in the more intimate Reserve Room includes samples of library wines and a private patio with views of the majestic Columbia Gorge. Outside, the grounds are a great spot for a picnic or to walk your furry friends along for the romantic ride.

Bells Up Winery, Newberg

The winery’s top Instagram post of 2017? A couple kissing. Bells Up, perched on a steep hill overlooking the valley, offers a truly private experience as tastings are appointment-only, never double-booked. Wine lovers can enjoy the recently completed “wine porch,” bringing them closer to the vines and expanding the 300-degree view of surrounding valley. “It’s easy to fall in love with the view,” Specter said. “We’ve witnessed several stolen — and not so stolen — kisses out there since its debut.”

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800((img|BiancaBosker.jpg))

Bianca Bosker ##Photo Provided

Bianca Bosker, the award-winning journalist and author of The New York Times Bestseller “Cork Dork,” traded her career as HuffPost’s executive tech editor for a job as a “cellar rat.” Inspired by sommeliers who perfect their senses the way Olympians train their bodies, she plunged inside neuroscientists’ labs, underground tasting groups, Michelin-starred restaurants and mass-market wine factories in training to become a somm and uncover the nature of taste. She has written for publications such as The New Yorker online, The New York Times, Food & Wine and The Atlantic, where is she is a contributing editor. She is also the author of “Original Copies.”

Q: What was the “ah-ha!” moment that turned your journalistic focus to wine?

A: I used to be the kind of casual drinker who’d spend weekend nights choosing between bottled and boxed wine, not Burgundy and Bordeaux. But one evening while I was out for drinks, a sommelier happened to mention he was preparing for something called the “Best Sommelier in the World” competition. I was skeptical. How could pouring wine possibly be high-stakes? But, I started looking into it and immediately got hooked on binge-watching YouTube videos of this “Best Sommelier” contest — essentially the Westminster Dog Show with booze.

This world of elite sommeliers and flavor fanatics fascinated me. These are people who spend fortunes chasing down a few ounces of fermented grape juice, lick rocks to train their palates and divorce spouses so they’ll have more time to study soil types. I’ve always been obsessed with other people’s obsessions, and since no one does mania like wine lovers, I became fixated on understanding what drives them. Why wine? Was it B.S.? Or was I neglecting one of life’s ultimate pleasures? I also realized that these tasters have the sort of sensory skills I associate with bomb-sniffing German Shepherds, and my curiosity quickly evolved into a more personal concern: They lived a life of sensory cultivation; I lived a life of sensory deprivation, all screens and websites. That made me wonder what I might be missing—in a glass of wine, at the table, and in life. So, I set out to figure out what that was.

Q: What was the most challenging part of writing “Cork Dork,” your 2017 New York Times Bestseller?

A: It was tough convincing friends and family I hadn’t lost my mind. After I traded my stable, full-time job as HuffPost’s executive tech editor for a position as cellar rat and started training as a sommelier, everything changed. Suddenly, toothpaste was a liability. I gave up salt, coffee, hard alcohol, spicy food and slurping anything above a lukewarm temperature. Then there was the drinking. Daytime sobriety was ancient history. I joined underground tasting groups with New York’s top somms, and “work” now meant sipping wine at 9 a.m. while getting coached by aspiring Master Sommeliers. I didn’t recognize who I’d become.

Q: When writing “Cork Dork,” what did you want to avoid? What did you discover during the process that was never part of your original vision?

A: I think “Cork Dork” deviates sharply from the wine world’s typical script. I was inspired to pull back the curtain on parts of the wine world that are rarely explored: the soul of wine and the science, the high and the low. I think the industry often prioritizes the romance of wine. And yet to me, the reality is so much messier, more complex and more interesting than the fairy tale that’s traditionally showcased. And I think for too long, sommeliers have gone overlooked. Far from being just cork pullers, they are storytellers and creators in their own right.

Q: Having grown up in Portland and now living in New York City, what do miss most about your hometown?

A: Powell’s Books and quiet, foggy weekends on the Oregon Coast. Powell’s Books helped raise me. As an only child, I spent a lot of time alone, which meant a lot of time reading, and I passed hours in Powell’s stacks, graduating from Mother Goose to Beverly Cleary to Katherine Dunn. I love few things as much as getting lost in their city of books, and going to Powell’s always fills me with thrill of adventure and possibility. Pair a pile of books from their shelves with a cozy weekend on the Oregon Coast and a nice Willamette Valley wine, and that’s my version of heaven.

Q: What do you enjoy most about your adopted city?

A: I’m a sucker for overstimulation, and living in New York never fails to deliver a delightful pummeling of energy and ideas.

Q: Any new projects in the works?

A: Oh yes, most definitely, though some are too new to share. “Cork Dork” is gradually making its way around the world, so if you prefer to read it in Russian or Spanish or Chinese, that can be arranged. I’m continuing to explore the world of food, wine and culture for outlets like The New Yorker and The Atlantic. While #pairdeviling on Instagram, as ever…

Make béchamel sauce: In small skillet or saucepan, make roux by melting butter and adding flour. Cook until blond colored, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add ½ cup stock; stir well to combine. Bring to a simmer; then slowly add milk, stirring continuously. Let mixture come to a simmer; then add salt and pepper to taste, followed by fresh grated nutmeg. (It’s very important to not let this boil.) Set aside.

In small frying pan, add wine, sherry, 1 cup stock, shallots and tarragon; boil down until thick, almost a glaze.

Add glaze to béchamel; stir well to combine.

Mix cream with egg yolks, slowly adding some béchamel-glaze mixture to cream, stirring constantly. When you reach ½ cup of new mixture, pour it all back into rest of the béchamel-glaze mixture. (This “tempers” the cream-egg mixture so you don’t get scrambled eggs in your sauce.) Again, do not let this boil.

Add dry mustard and some salt to taste. Cook until sauce is thickened, then fold in “flavor” from lobster followed by lobster meat; mix well.

Place zest of 3 lemons in food processor fitted with steel blade. Add sugar and pulse until zest is very finely minced into sugar.

Cream butter and beat in sugar and lemon mixture. Add eggs, 1 at a time; then add lemon juice and salt. Mix until combined.

Pour mixture into 2-quart saucepan; cook over low heat until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Lemon curd will thicken at about 170°F or just below simmer. Remove from heat and cool; place directly into pastry bag (or gallon Ziploc will substitute) and refrigerate.

Gather dough together, forming a ball. Flatten dough into disk and roll out on lightly floured surface to ½-inch-thick. Transfer round to prepared pan. Press dough evenly over bottom to edges of pan.

Using tip of small sharp knife, score dough into 8 equal triangles; then pierce all over with fork. Bake until shortbread is cooked through and pale golden, about 45 minutes.

In electric mixer, beat egg whites with cream of tartar until foamy; gradually add ¾ cup of white sugar until stiff peaks form. Place meringue in pastry bag and reserve.

To assemble, pipe layer of lemon curd onto cooled cookies; then pipe meringue on top. Garnish with fresh zest of lemon and mint.

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800((img|CuriousCaseofChelois.jpg))

King's Raven Winery 2015 Chelois ##Photo Provided

I was gobsmacked to stumble across Chelois at King’s Raven Winery near Oregon City because you are about as likely to find a bottle of this obscure varietal as you are to see a plesiosaur swimming in Carlton Lake. Winemaker Darin Ingram’s Chelois, all 144 bottles of it, is one of the rarest commercial wines in America. It’s also as delightful as it is elusive.

Chelois (shell-WAH) is one of the thousands of French-American hybrid grapes created by scientists to fight powdery mildew and phylloxera, which infiltrated France in the mid-18th century. Scientists hoped combining the natural resistance of American Vitis labrusca with Europe’s Vitis vinifera vines would stop the fungus and pests from wiping out Europe’s vineyards. The scientists also hoped their hybrid grapes would produce wines people wanted to drink.

French-American hybrids can also tolerate temperatures as low as -20°F., a feature that led Philip Wagner, H.L Mencken’s replacement as editor of the Baltimore Sun, to bring them to America. Wagner wanted to make wine at his Maryland farm, but he knew the winters were too harsh to grow his preferred Zinfandel grapes. He also refused to grow American grapes like Concord because he hated their “foxy” flavor. Wagner instead turned to the French-American hybrids, which he knew from his travels in France could make excellent wines. By the mid-1930s Wagner was selling cuttings from hybrids such as Léon Millot and Marechal Foch to farmers and nurseries across America. Those sales lead us to the curious case of Chelois in Oregon City.

Darin Ingram’s family has farmed their 40-acre property for 77 years, but in the mid-1990s, the family began considering other options for their land. Inspired by a college professor who had recently planted a vineyard, Darin Ingram was able to convince his family to plant an acre of Pinot Noir in 2000. By 2003, King’s Raven Winery was born.

((script|Author Alberty))

Ingram quickly learned why Pinot Noir is called finicky. “It’s a difficult grape to work with,” Ingram exclaims. “In drought years I could lose up to 40 percent of my crop, and in cool, wet years, I spend a lot of time and money spraying for powdery mildew.” Thanks to fellow vineyard owners, Ingram soon discovered an alternative path.

Lars and Cynthia Nordström of Epyllion Vineyard told Ingram they pretty much stopped spraying when they tore out their Pinot Noir vines and replaced them with Chelois, Marechal Foch and Léon Millot. Ingram was also impressed by the hybrids’ ability to thrive in drought and deluge without much work. According to Ingram, “low-input viticulture like this is perfectly suited to a small family farm like ours.”

Ingram didn’t give up on Pinot Noir, but over the years he added 6.5 acres of Marechal Foch, Léon Millot, and Phoenix to his estate vineyard. Unfortunately, there’s one grape Ingram has never been able to get his hands on: Lars’ Chelois.

“For 10 years, Lars would tease me with bottles of Chelois he made; he would sell the rest of the grapes to a home winemaker,” Ingram laughs. “I enjoyed his wines, which made it all the more frustrating.”

In 2015, Ingram got his chance to make Chelois with Lars’ grapes, but he had to agree to split the lone barrel’s worth of bottles with the Nordström family; that’s why there are only 144 bottles. Scarcity can be alluring, but I was excited to try the wine because I’ve heard Chelois can be like Burgundy when it’s young and Bordeaux when it matures. What’s not to love about that combination?

Chelois is now my favorite French-American collaboration since Washington and Rochambeau defeated the British at Yorkville. I was disappointed, however, to learn that because of its homeopathic production total, Ingram released the 2015 vintage for $52 as a “wine club members only” offering. Luckily for the rest of the world, that may change shortly.

A few years ago Ingram discovered a patch of mature Chelois vines growing on a nearby farm. The farm’s owner, Tim Hammond-Williams, was told by the son of the previous owner the vines were there when they purchased the farm in 1946. He also told Hammond-Williams the vines looked like they were already several years old at the time. Given Chelois wasn’t officially registered in the U.S. until 1948, this is quite a mystery.

Lars purchased his Chelois cuttings in the 1990s from local viticulture expert Lon Rombough, whose original plant material likely came from the University of California- Davis. Rombough also inspected the vines on Hammond-Williams’ property and confirmed they were Chelois. If Hammond-Williams’ information is accurate, the vines on his farm could be 70 to 80 years old and might have come directly from Philip Wagner’s original Maryland nursery. Ingram and Hammond-Williams plan to keep working on the mystery.

Wine mysteries are always fun, but the important news is Ingram received enough cuttings from Hammond-Williams to plant a full acre of Chelois at his estate vineyard. He plans to harvest grapes from the vines later this year, which hopefully means even the folks who aren’t in Kings Raven’s wine club will be able to enjoy the charms of Chelois.

Tasting Notes:

Ingram’s 2015 Chelois has a dark magenta color befitting the raven on the label. As I poured the wine, I could easily smell bright red cherries, black pepper, a note of salinity that reminded me of a fresh-shucked oyster shell and a trace of damp earth. I was beginning to understand the Burgundy references. On the palate, the wine has modest tannins and tangy acidity, along with tart blackcap raspberry and cranberry fruit flavors that complement wee bits of spice, leather and caramel. Will this wine evolve into something akin to Claret? Ingram thinks you could put this bottle away for another 20 years if you’d like to find out. After a few glasses and a glance at the 12.5 percent alcohol listed on the label, I wouldn’t bet against him. —Michael Alberty

The changeup is a baseball pitch designed to disorient and confuse. It’s the perfect representation of the unknown and its mastery over those who think they know what to expect. This column is devoted to those unorthodox Oregon wines you never saw coming.

Eola Hills 2015 Everyday Extraordinary Syrah

Perfume of lilac, blueberries, fig, orange and leather predicts a progression of flavors. Savory black pepper spice in the beginning transforms to sweeter clove and cinnamon mid-palate, and blueberry returns on the finish, along with notes of leather. $18; 631 cases

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Elizabeth Chambers Cellar boasts the gravitas of a long-established winery with a list of 90-plus point wines, a tasting room filled with history and three generations of strong, talented women at the core of its story, and yet, the brand is only five years old.

When developing the visual identity, owner Liz Chambers’ designer advised how the brand should portray a sense of place, a person or be whimsical. Well, the label features all three: a black and white pointillism depiction of its iconic building behind a vivid blue butterfly — not a person, per se, but a representation.

“The butterfly represents my mother, who collected blue morpho butterflies and got me into the wine business in 1993,” Liz said. “I feel that mom is smiling and is with me on this journey. My daughter now works for the winery, and I hope that, someday, her daughters will as well.”

The imagery also fits the style Chambers strives for in her Pinot Noir: elegant, balanced and with a strong sense of place.

In 2014, when the tasting room opened in McMinnville’s 1926 power plant — previously home to Panther Creek Cellars — the dark interior featured burnt orange walls and covered windows, but the place had impressive bones with soaring 20-foot ceilings and serious charm.

((img|FlyingRight.jpg))

Brick walls are now exposed, with windows showcasing the wine in vertical fashion. Browns and blues continue through the whole space. ##Photo by Leah McGlade

With great effort from Cellar Ridge Construction in 2016, the space transformed. Original brick walls were liberated from paint, the signature 15-foot arched windows came to light and a garden with mature trees, seating and installation of a water feature. The rear half of the building was demolished, allowing for a new concrete pad adding 5,212 feet for production. The fermentation area and warehouse were now separated with a wall of windows and rolling glass doors.

The final touches came in 2017. Like a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis, the inside renovation by Pedal Home Interiors came to life.

“When I first laid eyes on the space at Elizabeth Chambers Cellar, I just knew it would be amazing,” said designer Anne Nash. “The history, textures, the feeling, is unlike any other tasting room in the area. It was really fun to bring the space to life with furniture and elements to create a space that feels warm and inviting. The look really came together when we added rugs, leather sofas and dark wood tables to make this space shine.”

Wine club member Craig Pyle from West Linn delights in the transformation.

“The ambiance is incredible. It’s part of the overall experience, along with the wine and people who are friendly and knowledgeable. The venue is so cool. It’s historic and urban, a neat place to go. I often bring friends and we sit in the garden and enjoy wine before heading out to dinner on Third Street.”

The new design has created a versatile area for small to large events.

“I hosted a group of 20 friends, and we sat at the big table in the tasting room,” Pyle said. “The staff at the winery guided me through every detail—from flowers on the table to a charcuterie board for every two guests. We enjoyed a variety of wine, including library bottles.”

Chambers attributes much of this rapid transformation to her staff. After working together for eight years at Domaine Serene, Leah McGlade and Tom Bassford joined the team last May, both as directors of sales, hospitality and marketing. Through their leadership, Elizabeth Chambers has witnessed great changes over the last seven months with major plans to continue evolving the brand.

Beginning in July, the winery started offering seated tastings with side-by-side selections, along with a cheese and charcuterie plate. They re-imagined the wine club pick-up events into Friday night gourmet pizza parties, suggesting members stop by the winery and pick up their bottles before dinner at one of McMinnville’s superb restaurants.

“We wanted to freshen up the events and tasting opportunities for our club members,” Bassford explained, “and we felt that they needed a more robust offering of experiences and events.”

The new tasting room can also accommodate weddings and other special celebrations. According to McGlade, the Holiday Artisan Market was one of the year’s most successful events.

“We were looking for a way to support local artisans and give people a chance to start holiday gift shopping locally while enjoying a glass of our wine,” she said. “The success really showed when four out of 10 vendors sold out.”

The winery dedicates itself to enhancing tourism in the community as well.

“Elizabeth Chambers Cellar has doubled down this year, elevating the overall wine experience in McMinnville,” said Jeff Knapp, executive director of Visit McMinnville. “They have matched their high-quality wines with big investments in modernizing their historic facilities and in bringing in Oregon Wine Country veterans like Leah and Tom. All of this plus the amazing location makes it a must-visit on McMinnville’s Wine Walk.”

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800During the ninth year of the Newport Seafood & Wine Festival, local restaurateur Joseph Swafford was asked to assemble a team of expert judges for a commercial wine competition to complement the already thriving event. This select group represented winemakers as well as wine writers, merchants, scientists and educators.

((img|HereCometheJudges.jpg))

In 2014, Flying Dutchman Winery of Otter Rock won Best of Show honors for its 2006 Syrah. ##Newport News Times

In 1986, only 49 wines were entered in the initial contest. Some 32 years later, the festival still includes the six original judges: two from the first year; the other four, only a year or so behind. In 2016, this team judged a record number — tied with 2011 — 181 wines. Medals are awarded for gold, silver and bronze standards, in addition to the highly regarded Joseph H. Swafford Best-of-Show.

Their qualifications are impressive. Swafford owned the Champagne Patio Restaurant for 32 years. In 1980, Razzano founded The Ashland Wine Cellar, which continues to thrive, and currently writes about wine for a number of publications. Tish was the wine columnist for the Salem and Boise Statesman-Journal newspapers for years, in addition to being a professional wine judge throughout the U.S.; he also, after studying wine and the culinary arts in New York City, taught wine appreciation classes for adults and cooking classes for teens and older. Ross has been a restaurateur in Idaho and Colorado, where she lives, with years of wine-buying experience. A former professor at the University of Washington, Warren helped found the Enological Society of the Pacific Northwest — also known as the Seattle Wine Society — while an active member of the Slow Food movement. For two decades, McLaren served as a wine steward on the Central Oregon Coast.

The judging spans four sessions over two days. After organizing into groups based on varietal or type of blend, the wines are placed into flights, with the morning sessions focused on the lighter and drier before moving into the heavier and sweeter by the end of the day.

When tasting hundreds of wine, having a plan helps minimize palate fatigue. The judging requires sincere effort and concentration and the use of sensory memory to effectively evaluate. McLaren maintains focus is the key and not to waver from it.

“I have a moment of hope that this will be the best flight or varietal ever entered into the competition,” McLaren said. “I think all of us are optimists, supportive of the industry even as we evaluate and give awards.

“I would say that as judges, we take our task in earnest,” he continued. “Each of us tries to give every wine we taste a fair evaluation based on our individual experience. We also respectfully work as a team to be sure that every wine gets its moment to shine. In the singular moment of attention, I want a wine to be transparent enough to reveal its pedigree.”

He and the team, realizing the magnitude of their decision for each bottle, make every effort to judge with integrity. The panel has been known to share praise or explain criticisms to the winemakers who contact them following the event. Tish may have said it best, “If any of us had perfect palates, only one — not five of us — would be needed.”

As in any forged family, there are stories-turned-legends happily revisited with laughter over time. For example, one of the first years of the competition, a car accident sheared a power pole and therefore the power; the team finished the competition by candlelight. One judge swears by fortifying for the day with an oatmeal breakfast, which could be wise words for those attending the festival or out for a day of wine tasting. Then there is the great story of when Warren and his wife were passed at a high rate of speed by two judges on the interstate as they were heading back from the competition. Warren called the driver and impersonated an officer. Over the years, the friendships have fermented beautifully together.

Each judge’s connection to the team originates with Swafford, described as the soul of the competition; all express the privilege of being invited back year after year to judge one of the greatest wine competitions in Oregon.

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Maria Soto flips a sauté pan full of sliced prime rib and onion. It’s the tail-end of the lunch rush at the Pink House Café in downtown Independence, and she’s dishing up another order of the daily special.

((img|InthePink.jpg))

Maria Soto and Jorge Hernandez now own the restaurant and run it with their family. ##Photos by Neil Zawicki

She tosses the pan with the deft skill of a veteran cook, sending the contents in tight rapid cartwheels above the stove, flames from the burner flaring orange, the hiss of searing beef filling the air. She’s been slinging food at the decade-old eatery for the past eight years, but one element has changed since she first took the job: She now owns the place.

Out front, Soto’s daughter, Brenda Farley, greets diners, seating them in one of the quiet, well-appointed dining rooms in this 145-year-old Gothic style house. Now a beacon of high-end fare in this town of nearly 10,000, the Pink House was established in 2009, when local developer Paul Reitter bought the building for $500, moved it to its present spot just off Main Street, had it renovated, and then hired a chef to design a menu. While it’s the third location for the home, this is the first time it’s been used as a restaurant.

With its cozy rooms, tight stairways and decor reminiscent of the era in which it was built, the Pink House has gained a following. Guests drive not only from town, but also Corvallis and Albany to enjoy such favorites as Hungarian Chicken Paprikash served over cheese tortellini, a salmon filet, Bratwurst with Applekraut, and Korean-style beef short ribs. Burgers are offered as well, along with a number of homemade desserts, including a locally made rum cake.

((img|InthePink_2.jpg))

The house was built in 1873. ##Photos by Neil Zawicki

The menu was designed to be diverse. Farley says it was a big help that her mom had been preparing every dish for seven years before her family took over in October 2017. She’s known Reitter since she was five years old, and was surprised and excited when he decided only two months before retiring to offer the restaurant to her mom.

“He really wanted it in the hands of people who would keep it just the way it has always been,” she said. “So before he put it up for sale, he asked my mom and dad if they wanted it.”

Farley, who’s married with three kids, works with her brother, sister, mom and dad, Jorge Hernandez, to run the restaurant, while Reitter still owns the building. Hernandez, like Soto, moved to the U.S. from Mexico in 1989 and has experience as a cook in commercial kitchens. Today, they live on a farm outside Independence and have settled into their new role as restaurateur. Hernandez smiles when asked if it’s different when you own the place. Farley adds the experience has been an adventure.

“Paul told me, ‘You’re going to go from having a job here to owning it,” she said. “He was right. It’s a 24-7 job,” she said. “It was a huge learning process. There was a lot of trial and error...”

((img|InthePink_3.jpg))

Brenda Farley presents a bottle of locally made Redgate wine at Pink House Café in Independence. ##Photos by Neil Zawicki

Farley says summer is the most unpredictable season, explaining several times her dad has unexpectedly run to the store for ingredients. But maybe the biggest education for Farley has been wine. The Pink House serves Willamette Valley and Redgate to its guests, and as the manager, she has made it her business to become as much of a wine expert as possible.

“I’ve really had to learn about wines,” she said. “To me, wine was just wine, but I’ve learned it’s not.”

As part of her education, Farley sat down for self-imposed pairing sessions, in which she sampled different types with all the menu items. This, she said, really drove it home for her that some wines simply do not go with some dishes.

“It’s really true,” she laughed.

For the Chicken Paprikash, for example, she says with confidence that a nice Tempranillo would pair well.

Another challenge: the regulars — the same groups come on certain days of the week. When her family assumed charge of the place, she said there was concern they were going to change the menu. Because the food was popular, and also because her mom had the menu down, there was simply no reason to mess with a good thing.

With the regulars, Farley says, comes the small town effect, where people call one another by their first names and “usual” orders are easily remembered, giving the Pink House a homey feel and a family spirit among the diners and, quite literally, the staff.

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Lambic, thought to be the oldest beer in the western world, may also be the most unusual and most polarizing: Some see it as the ultimate expression in the art of brewing; others don’t think of it as beer at all.

True Lambic is produced in a specific part of Belgium, where the style originated. If made here, the beer is “Lambic-inspired.” Because of its fermentation style, it’s one of the closest beers to wine, expressing a sense of place, or terroir.

((img|Lambic_2.jpg))

Exposed to wild yeasts and bacteria — as opposed to cultivated strains of brewer’s yeast — the beer develops distinctively dry, vinous and cider-like flavors with high acidity and a sour aftertaste. Brettanomyces (Brett), a volatile yeast strain typically unwelcome in both breweries and wineries, dominates Lambic’s fermentation, delivering the funky, earthy, tart flavors people either love or hate.

Cloudy in appearance with mild carbonation, modern Lambics may be fermented with raspberries (framboise), peach (peche), cherry (kriek), apricots or even wine grapes. The fruit helps mellow the beer’s sour nature, adding complexity in flavor, aroma and color.

Upright Brewing: Ives

“As drinkable as a Kölsch with tons of complexity, color that’s reminiscent of Beerenauslese Riesling and beautiful tiny bubbles. Heavy Brett aromas quickly relax, revealing a fruit-filled nose with hints of amaro and creaminess. The palate offers stone fruit, lemon zest bursts of hibiscus and rose petal, and a hint of saline making me thirst for the next swig.” —Barnaby Tuttle, Teutonic Wine Company

pFriem: Druif

“Though I’m not always into sour-style beers, this was rad. Funky components came through with lots of tropical fruit, white flower notes on the nose and a very full palate. The finish was brought into balance by the level of CO2 and overall acidity. Enjoy this with Asian pork or maybe a Cubano sandwich. Such a cool beer, I would drink this during harvest for sure.” —Sterling Whitted, Holden Wines

pFriem: Apricot

“Fantastic! An excellent example of how Brett can be done right, just enough to add a little spicy, wild funk without dominating. The nose is strawberry fruit leather and butterscotch. On the palate, it’s more sour, as in pickled green strawberries and a hint of cola with peaty, whiskey-like notes. Light-bodied, thirst-quenching and easy to polish off in a single sitting. Allow it to open up at room temp to coax out its complexities.” —Jenny Mosbacher, Fossil and Fawn

The Ale Apothecary: Sahalie

“Bright, tropical fruits (guava, lychee, lemon) hit you with an unexpected freshness. Swirl for an explosion of tiny bubbles that create a creamy texture, lifting the citrus and funky flavors. Let it sit for an earthy, tangy, dehydrated orange, whiskey or coffee richness. If you’re looking for me anytime soon, you’ll find me with a bucket of fried chicken and a big glass of this beer.” —Deven Morgenstern, Joyful Noise Wine

Cascade: 2016 Kreik Sour Ale

“Aged more than a year in what I presume to be Pinot Noir barrels, the beer is a reddish amber color and pretty tart right away, with lovely clean flavors of tart candy, pungent sour cherries, roasted barley and aged oak spice notes. It finishes dry and refreshing, despite it being sour. My stomach immediately felt good drinking this.” —Vincent Fritsche, Vincent Wine Company

Alesong: Pinot Gris Terroir

“Banana bread aromas, with layers of sweet clove-like spice, jump out of the glass. Following up is something fresh, like mornings in the mountains. Drier and crisp on the palate with golden apple, dried grass, golden raspberry and a summer woodsiness — like an oak grove in June. Reminiscent of my Queen D wine.” —Brianne Day, Day Wines

The Ale Apothecary: Ralph (not pictured)

“Copper color with lots of carbonation. Aromas and flavors of tart apricot, pine needles — like Retsina, which makes me want Greek roasted potatoes — plus Smarties, mango Chilibonchas, and some biscuit-y yeastiness. All over the map with flavors and aromas, but in a good way. The enjoyable mixture of sour, malty and herbal provides dimension without fighting for attention.” —Thomas Houseman, Anne Amie Vineyards

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Benton-Lane Sells to Napa Company

Prime Pinot Noir producer Benton-Lane Winery is coming full circle. From Napa Valley, winemakers Steve and Carol Girard moved to the southern part of the Willamette Valley in the late ’80s with a mission to grow and produce Oregon Pinot Noir. The Girards are selling the brand to Huneeus Vintners in Napa Valley. From 142 acres of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay, Benton-Lane produces 100-percent estate wines distributed in all 50 states and internationally.

Greg Jones Honored

((img|Briefs_0218_2.jpg))

Greg Jones ##Photo Provided

Wine Business Monthly magazine named research climatologist Greg Jones, also the director of wine education at Linfield College, one of its 48 “Top Wine Industry Leaders” for 2017.

Senator Winters Honored

The Oregon Winegrowers Association presented Sen. Jackie Winters its inaugural Oregon Wine Leadership Award during the group’s legislative reception at the State Capitol on Jan. 10.

Despite a tough budget climate, Sen. Winters was instrumental in securing $500,000 for the Market Access and Research Investment Strategy project this past session, which supports research initiatives and promotional programs to help family-owned wine businesses reach new customers.

Sen. Winters was the chief sponsor of the Oregon Wine Country license plate, working to make sure proceeds from plate sales go exclusively into wine and culinary tourism programs.

More Changes at Adelsheim

((img|Briefs_0218.jpg))

Gina Hennen ##Photo Provided

In December, Adelsheim Vineyard’s longtime winemaker Dave Paige left the winery to acquire a nearby vineyard and start his own brand. Gina Hennen, who worked alongside Paige since 2007, now leads the winemaking team. Matt Perry and Noah Roberts will become assistant winemaker and cellar master, respectively.

St. Innocent Makes a Move

St. Innocent founder Mark Vlossak celebrates 30 years of winemaking with big news: The winery has purchased 47.5 acres in the South Salem Hills in Jefferson, where a new winery, tasting room and vineyard will be established. The current facility has been sold to Vlossak’s partners at Zenith Vineyard, Tim and Kari Ramey.

Attendees can savor wine and culinary treats under jets suspended from steel scissor trusses. The lines of these nostalgic aircraft are set off by lights flooding in from massive windows. Although some exhibits relocate to accommodate the event, there’s still plenty to fascinate.

This year, the fundraiser celebrates its silver anniversary. What began 25 years ago by a group of parents to establish funds making a private grade school education more accessible now contributes significantly to every area of the operating budget of St. James Catholic School, as well as scholarships.

“We started this festival with a vision to present a truly classic event featuring food, wine and art located in the heart of Oregon’s wine country,” said Steve Allen, one of the original event founders. “From conception, vendors have been chosen through a jury procedure to assure high quality, balanced offerings for the three-day event.”

As attendance has expanded over the years — from its debut of 1,000 to last year’s count of more than 5,000 guests — so has the program itself. Starting in 2011, distilleries were invited to sample their wares, and the wine competition, a perennial favorite, has grown in submissions, too. In fact, be sure to taste the medal winners and see if you agree with the palates of the professionals who met in January to perform the selfless act of assessing every entry.

For Edward Gormley, former mayor of McMinnville, his involvement in SIP is personal. Growing up in “Mac,” he graduated from St. James School and is proud to be a SIP sponsor and volunteer. He notes the entirely volunteer-organized aspect of the event setting it apart from many other larger-scale wine tasting experiences in the area, and the spirit of volunteerism embodies the McMinnville community.

Allen reflects Gormley’s sentiment.

“Our first event was held in 1993 and organized completely by volunteers,” Allen said. “This practice remains in place today. The continued involvement of parents, school staff and community volunteers makes this festival a weekend of pleasure for the attendees and a great revenue source for vendors, our school and sponsors. Because of this practice, 100-percent of the revenue goes directly back to the school.”

In all, 170 vendors — wine, beer, spirits, food and art — will be placed throughout the ample space. Foodies will be as enamored as oenophiles as cooking demonstrations entertain while educating at the Chef’s Table throughout the weekend. Thanks to Pacific Seafood, crab and shrimp melts are back by popular demand. Visitors can also nosh on asparagus tamales, barbecue, oysters, chocolates and pastries while enjoying the lively notes of local musicians throughout the entire affair.

Wine pairings will be plentiful with strong participation from Southern Oregon wineries such as Bradley Vineyards, Girardet, MarshAnne Landing, Melrose, Spangler and Troon, as well as brands closer to home: Willamette Valley Vineyards, Namasté, Methven, Yamhill Valley Vineyards, Lenné Estate and others. Guests are encouraged to sample from the 70 participating wineries.

Find a wine you absolutely must share? Guests can purchase wines by the bottle and a valet counter will store your score until it’s time to depart the festivities. Volunteers will then help transport cellar acquisitions to your car.

Event founder Steve Bernards added, “It’s incredible that what started 25 years ago as a small volunteer effort to help the local school has turned into a wine lover’s bucket-list destination that supports not just the school, but the entire community in a big way.”

According to Wikipedia, anthropologists fall into two camps when it comes to the origin of kissing: (1) It is instinctual and intuitive; and (2) it evolved from what is known as “kiss feeding,” a process mothers used to feed their infants by passing chewed food into their babies’ mouths.

Another interesting tidbit: Vaughn Bryant, an anthropologist at Texas A&M University who specializes in the history of the kiss, says the earliest known reference to kissing-like behavior originates from the Vedas, a large body of Sanskrit texts from the ancient Indian subcontinent, around 3,500 years ago. In the Sumerian poem, the author wastes no time describing what we call French kissing.But since I am notoriously not one for PDA, doing it or watching it — I cite my Catholic upbringing — I will go no further on this topic other than to transition to the tongue’s most vital task in wine appreciation: taste.

A kiss of thyme in Gamay, a slice of banana in Pinot Gris, a wisp of gun smoke in Pinot Noir or a dusting of clay in Cab Sauv, these little surprises, like a sudden embrace, incite passion for the wine lover, enriching the relationship of drinker and drink.

So, as you read about the “Best Places to Kiss in Wine Country,” a lighthearted feature on romantic locales, remember, you don’t need a partner for the love to spark, just a pair of lips and a glass of Oregon wine will do.

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800Over a career spanning a half century, M.F.K. Fisher’s 27 books on food, drink and conviviality earned her prime position among American authors.

Fisher (1908–1992) though born in Michigan, resided in California with the exception of her ex-pat adventures in France between world wars. She never lost her vitality or her fascination with America’s table rituals, though at times she was critical of its ersatz tendencies, preferring convenience and speed ahead of enjoyment and quality. Her continued lament describes “taste blindness.”

((img|TasteBlindness.jpg))

Taste blindness is no neurologic or genetic malfunction; it’s rather a choice to ignore the experience of taste pleasure at meals. It dispenses with all aspects of those stimulations in favor of mere utility pushing the joyous table away as if swatting at gnats.

What causes this myopia? I think the answer resides in our cultural DNA, with its impulse to get a move on. But there is something else. We carry a recessive gene of Puritanical prudery casting its long shadow over joyous occasions such as a leisurely meal, with flagons of wine throughout.

Because pleasure elicits guilt and woeful spasms of conscience, we fake denial but don’t shake the blindness, any more than the Romanovs or the House of Windsor could erase hemophilia. It follows us through the ages — how else to explain the time constraints of Happy Hour?

Fisher recounts farm-to-table food before American cooking and dining was consigned by modernity to the root cellar and the Mason jar — thus into the Orphic shade of nostalgia. Some of Fisher’s best writing recalls the rush to harvest, cook and store bounty for use over the somewhat imaginary long winter of a California homestead.

She also carries a theme through her food tomes, namely, human hunger — not in the weepy-Sally-Strothers-overnight-cable-TV-commercial sort of way. Its essence as fuel needed to preserve the race, so as to live and love well. The remedies for taste blindness advocate immediate connection among the farm, the kitchen and the table.

Writing a foreword to one edition of Fisher’s collections, James Beard suggests a direct regimen to combat taste blindness. It entails knowledge, practice and memory. Because wine is food in a different form, I apply Beard’s judgment to decoding grapes, since it’s become too easy in our enjoyment of wine to lose sight of what’s really happening.

In today’s 24-7, me-too, me-first information cycle, we lose sight of the point that tasting wine is not speed-dating. So, let’s slow down and examine the following considerations that can help you better navigate the sometimes-intimidating world of wine.

Numbers worth knowing. Vintage refers to the harvest year, not the year the wine was released; i.e., put into the market. Vintage was established to help value wine. Vintage years vary, so general buzz about a “good year” refers to the quality of the fruit. Encountering a vintage helps identify wines of interest reflecting the overall characteristics of that specific growing season.

More numbers to remember. Alcohol by volume and cost per bottle. The former helps set the latter, along with a component for preserving it.

Numbers to avoid. These are wine ratings. They assign a point score like an applause meter. They are fake news geared to spike sales. Don’t fool yourself.

Learn some geography. If you can find the mall with your GPS, you can also locate the area producing the fruit in your wine. It’s likely you’ll discover numerous possibilities in the same neighborhood, expanding your world of wine and ensuring additional enjoyment.

Hyper-local wine. “Estate” wine originates from a winery’s surrounding vines, reflecting the qualities of a specific slice of planet Earth. If “block” is mentioned on a label, estate or otherwise, that slice has been further divided, possibly showing a distinction in taste — or a marketing approach.

Wines weigh differently. Rosés are usually light-bodied, as well as Rieslings and Sauvignon Blanc. I class Pinot Noir as medium, but some are lighter, comparable to Beaujolais or Gamay. Wines of middle heft will include Merlot and more than a few Chardonnays. Cabernet Sauvignon and like-minded blends will be heavier-bodied. Sangiovese varies from light-middle weight but becomes heavier in blends that include Teraldigo or Merlot. Which do you prefer?

The right kind of sweet. The mature palate handles acid, minerals and savory components better than a child’s. But it’s O.K. to prefer wine that stimulates our sweet receptors. Great ones exist, and some can cost oodles of money, but if you have a Barsac with fresh oysters, you’ll likely reach culinary ecstasy. Imagine the foods you could pair with this type of wine, and the blinders will fall away.

Wines reveal more as they meet the greater environment. Your physical self is a big part of this environment. So when a wine really pleases, consider the context of the moment, your mood and other responses to what happens around you. There is much sensuousness in Fisher’s works, and it underlies her passionate approach to food and wine and company. It’s not an “experience,” but experience lived and remembered.

No dumb questions. If you’re uncertain of a wine term, ask. The only dumb question is held in silence out of fear someone nearly as clueless on the same point, hands up a shovel of merde. Remember, you’re shopping for wine, not fertilizing the vineyard. You may not drink wines from the 1,400 varietals out there, but there’s no need to cram. Immediacy and extended pleasure helps everyone see better.

Wine is like love. If you hold on too long, it will disappoint you like your prom date encountered at your 50th reunion. Maturity differs from timekeeping. Drink the good wine today.

Memory of wine, recalling Beard, may lead to ebullience, but as Madeline Puckette of Wine Folly recently wrote about tasting notes that read more like a poem than a description: “We’re talking about wine, not writing the sequel to ‘Leaves of Grass.’ Now, there’s no wrong answer when it comes to taste, and it’s important to remember feelings and sensations when drinking, but, it’s also equally important to put wine experiences into something that can be quantified: real tastes, real flavors. Wine is still a product, and each has a specific flavor that can be (more or less) defined.”

Good words celebrate goodness in wines. Save the numbers for Super Lotto.

Writer’s note: “The Art of Eating” is a collection of five short Fisher books in one tome. Beard’s tribute appears as a preface to one; all appeared around WWII but remain in print or audio versions.

]]>Thu, 01 Feb 2018 00:00:00 -0800McMinnville, OR, January 16, 2018: The much-beloved SIP McMinnville Wine & Food Classic invades the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum March 9-11, 2018, for a sterling 25th anniversary event. This festival brings together small independent producers of Oregon wine, beer, liquor, food, and art for three days of tasting, toasting, and raising funds for St. James School in McMinnville, founded in 1906.

SIP began in 1993 (pre-internet, and pre-cell phone!) as a small school fundraiser, but has grown into one of the largest and most beloved food & wine festivals in Oregon. Today, it attracts thousands of attendees from every age group, more than half of which have made SIP an annual tradition.

"Everything about the event is centered upon having fun, and the venue is what really sets SIP apart," says this year's event co-chair Jon Johnson. Approximately 170 vendors will set up among the artifacts of the space age - jets, missiles, and displays from outer space missions.

The owners and artisans themselves are on hand to pour and chat, making this one of the most personal and convenient ways to discover Oregon's delicious bounty. For those who wish to purchase, a streamlined system lets guests enjoy the event to the fullest, without having to carry around their treasures. Orders are made available for pick up at a valet counter including assistance on transportation to your vehicle.

More than 25 food vendors, 18 artisans, 6 distilleries, and 70 wineries from all over Oregon plan to participate in this year's 25th anniversary event. "From conception, vendors have been chosen through a jury procedure to assure high quality balanced offerings for the three day event," says Steve & Mary Allen co-founders of the event. Among 2018's winery partners are Abacela, Naked Wines, Willamette Valley Vineyards, Namaste Vineyards, Methven Family Vineyards & Winery, Yamhill Valley Vineyards, Lenné Estate, Patton Valley Vineyard, Siltstone Wines, and Melrose Vineyards. Local beer, cider, and distilled liquors will also be on hand. Guests can enjoy their beverages with fresh oysters, crab and shrimp melts, barbecue, German grilled specialties, authentic tamales, and more. Local craftsmen will display jewelry, art, and furniture, and local musicians will perform live all three days.

In addition to the incredible setting and artisanal experience, this event provides essential funding for McMinnville's venerable St. James Catholic school. Last year, the event raised approximately 12% of the school's operating budget, or $1000 per student.

Father Mike Walker, St. James's Pastor, says: "Thanks to so many good and generous people, the SIP McMinnville Wine and Food Classic does so much to support St. James School, while at the same time giving the Small Independent Producers the opportunity to share their craft with the region. We very much rely on and appreciate the support from this great event!"

SIP's founder, Steve Bernards, says: "It's incredible that what started 25 years ago as a small volunteer effort to help the local school has turned into a wine-lover's bucket list destination that supports not just the school, but the entire community in a big way."

TICKETS

Special early bird pricing on tickets is available until January 31, 2018. Beginning February 1, day pass tickets are $20 for adults, $17 for seniors and designated drivers; after entry, patrons pay for each tasting or food item on an individual basis. VIP Parking, free parking, and Portland and McMinnville shuttle service will be available. For more info and to order tickets online, go to www.sipclassic.org.

PLAN YOUR TRIP TO SIP

To help maximize your time in this beautiful part of the state, check the resources on Visit McMinnville's website: http://visitmcminnville.com/

ABOUT THE SIP - MCMINNVILLE WINE AND FOOD CLASSIC:

Nicknamed SIP, this weekend food & wine festival is a dedicated fundraiser for McMinnville's St. James Catholic School that has raised hundreds of thousands of dollars for programs benefiting the school's children. Organized and staffed entirely by volunteers, the Classic is one of the largest community events of the year in McMinnville, and one of the largest and most beloved indoor food and wine festivals in Oregon. For more information on the event including Places to Stay, visit www.sipclassic.org.

]]>Tue, 16 Jan 2018 00:00:00 -0800In 2017, Oregon’s wine community lost Beloved members who will, no doubt, live on through the lives they touched and the wines they helped create.

Patricia Green

Patricia Green, who in 2000 founded Patricia Green Cellars in Newberg with Jim Anderson, died Nov. 5 in her cabin outside Roseburg. She was 62. Green grew up in Illinois and settled in Oregon in 1972. In her mid-20s, she worked in re-forestation, among other interesting jobs. In 1986, she began picking grapes for Richard Sommer at HillCrest Vineyard in Roseburg. From there, her career in wine began, eventually blossoming into one of the most influential winemakers in Oregon.Read More

Lores Dauenhauer

Lores Dauenhauer, co-founder of Hauer of the Dauen Winery, died Nov. 22. She was 80 years old. Born and raised near Amity, Lores married Carl Dauenhauer in 1957 in McMinnville. Together, they settled in Dayton. After work in retail and as a florist, Lores worked at home as the family and farm grew. In 1999, she and Carl founded the winery. Lores helped organize Women for Agriculture in Yamhill County among other ag projects. She is survived by Carl, a daughter, two sons, two sisters, three brothers, eight grandchildren and one great-grandchild.

Howard Mozeico

Ask anyone who knew Et Fille’s co-owner/co-winemaker Howard Mozeico, and they’ll regale you with heartfelt stories and mention his infectious laugh. Although Howard died tragically in a tractor accident on April 13, devastating his family and stunning the wine community, his commitment to family, friends and Oregon wine lives on, and his sense of humor and zest for life stays with many.Read More

Mark Pape

Mention Mark Pape to anyone who knew him, and they will describe his charming Texas accent, larger-than-life attitude, humility and beloved quirkiness; they might even call him “Papester,” a fun-loving nickname for an endearing guy.Read More

She was also, and in many ways remains, a teacher and mentor. Yet, it doesn’t appear Green sought this role or approached it in any sort of traditional way.

“It is kind of hilarious,” said Jim Anderson, her business partner of 22 years at Patricia Green Cellars. “We used the same harvest worker job description every year, clearly stating, ‘This is not a learning winery beyond witnessing things and taking them in.’” Indeed, the job description also expressed, “We go to great lengths to explain the mundanity of this job to wholeheartedly discourage people from wanting to take it.”

But that was just it. With Green, there was so much to take in and “mundane” was not an apt characterization. With no formal vineyard or winemaking education, Green dug in and made her mark on the Oregon wine industry.

In the early 1990s, Torii Mor hired Green as winemaker to build the brand. In a few short years, she helped the winery grow to 6,000 cases and a national reputation for excellent Pinot Noir. According to Anderson, over the years, the properties she cultivated would be in such good shape, they would create their own labels; White Rose and Quail Hill Vineyards — now Blakeslee Estate — are examples of such success stories.

“Patty had a sort of skill and mindset to help others succeed,” Anderson explained.

When Green and Anderson formed Patricia Green Cellars in 2000, they wanted to make wines that interested them. The winery now makes upwards of two dozen distinct offerings of Pinot Noir a year. This expansive approach has not been for marketing’s sake — although the wines are well distributed and highly successful — but instead a nod to Green’s appreciation for a “sense of place.”

“This is sort of the essence of Patty, incredibly hard working, doing things that are comically difficult because she truly loves what she does, and managing to make it work,” Anderson added.

This combination of crazy, strong-willed success is infectious. Just ask Matt Berson of Love & Squalor. He had been working in the restaurant industry and was at a career and personal crossroads when Green asked if he wanted to come wash barrels.

“Boy, did I ever,” Berson recalled. “Patty gave me a place to be and new things to learn, and a fantastic new community.”

He says Green would let him ask any kind of “stupid question,” as long as the tanks and hoses were properly cleaned.

“I think she was able to help others out so easily because once you showed up here,” Anderson explained, “you sort of got a de facto bigger sister [who] was going to make sure that you got her input on things, well, whether you wanted it or not.”

Berson offered a personal glimpse of Green. “I see her as among the last, of a generation of hippie/mad-scientist/back-to-the-land winemakers,” he said. “With the growth of our industry, and the expanded base knowledge of viticulture and winemaking in our region, there is now a modern model of how to make wine and also how to market and sell wine. All of this is fine, but back in the day a wide-eyed mountain lady with mud on her boots and a dream of Pinot Noir in her laugh could go on to have her own winery and to be known around the world for her expressive bottlings and become the Patty Green that everyone knows.”

Her teaching and inspiration reached beyond those who worked at Patricia Green Cellars.

“She [had] this raw passion and enthusiasm that had no issue with making the wines she wanted to make,” said Marcus Goodfellow, founder of Matello and Goodfellow Family Cellars. “[Patricia Green Cellars] reflected the culture and craft I wanted my wines to reflect and be a part of as well.”

She also affected her successors like Kelley Fox of Kelley Fox Wines, who became head winemaker at Torii Mor after Green’s successor, Bob McRitchie, left.

“Patty (unknowingly) taught me the importance of making wines that tell the truth of the vineyard; to respond to each vineyard in its own right; and to produce the wines naturally,” said Fox, who learned from the winery records Green left at Torii Mor. “I poured over them as if my life depended on it.

“Patty made Oregon wines that sung the vineyard,” Fox continued. “Her wines were truth-telling and beautiful. I know I am not alone in looking up to her as a hero. I pretty much idolized her in a way I cannot begin to articulate.”

Even as proprietor and winemaker under her own label, Fox turned to Green for guidance. “This past harvest, I was struggling with a far-reaching decision at the winery, and I remembered those notes of hers. Decision made.”

This is a bittersweet story. Although Patty Green passed away unexpectedly in early November at age 62, her legacy of mentorship lives on as those she taught and inspired continue to craft their own Oregon wines: Walter Scott, Love & Squalor, Kelley Fox Wines.

Her legacy also continues through Patricia Green Cellars, where Anderson will continue to make the honest Pinot Noir that has always been Green’s signature.

“She reached out through these wines with a force of personality so big, open, bright, warm, compassionate and loving that people who did not even know her [understood] that. This is passed on through the wines made here [at Patricia Green Cellars] and hopefully by the people whom she helped get started who pay it forward to other new winemakers. That will be a legacy to be proud of.”

MORE ABOUT PATTY

Patricia Green grew up in Aurora, Illinois. After settling in Oregon in 1972, she briefly attended college in Utah and from there started extensive traveling. Green began making wine at the age of 17.

“I was a home winemaker,” she told Wine Press Northwest in 2013. “I started making wine when I was in high school, though my family didn’t know it.”

In her mid-20s, she began a career in re-forestation, up and down the West Coast, from Northern California to Alaska. Her early résumé also included concrete forming and commercial fishing out of Coos Bay.

In 1986, she began picking grapes for Richard Sommers at HillCrest Vineyard in Roseburg. She started working at the winery the next year.

She worked under winemaker Don Kautzner at Adelsheim Vineyard in 1990 and 1991. In 1993, she launched Torii Mor Winery in Dundee with the owners, serving as lead winemaker in her capacity as the sole employee — all the while still winemaker for La Garza in Roseburg, 1993–1994, and consulting winemaker there in 1995 and ’96.

After leaving Torii Mor, both Green and Anderson wanted to establish a winery with grapes they already had contracts with. They looked for a warehouse to convert.

“I had worked for Autumn Wind from 1993–1995 in a part-time capacity,” Anderson said. “The owners somehow found out we were looking around for places and asked us if we would be interested in buying them out while keeping it on the down-low. We began working on the purchase process in March of 2000 and actually signed the papers on July 23, 2000.”

Together, they founded Patricia Green Cellars. The two had acquired Autumn Wind’s cellar, vineyard and equipment in addition to its 22-acre vineyard — the 52-acre property now contains about 30 acres of vines. The earliest vines date back to 1984, making them some of the oldest planted in the Ribbon Ridge AVA.

Today, the winery produces about 12,000 cases of wine a year, mostly Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, selling to markets in 23 states.

“This winery is her manifestation of living a life that has been free of self-imposed restrictions,” he noted. “By having a big picture and unique view of the world, she was able to create a winery where real and diverse wines are made in a rigorous yet creative manner.”

Note: For the holidays, a spoon of paddlefish roe and fresh truffle slices set this course over the top.

Oyster-Stuffed Filet Mignon

Serves 8 to 10

Wine Suggestion: Syrah

INGREDIENTS

8–10 8-ounce beef tenderloin steaks

2 dozen medium-sized oysters

1 cup Japanese bread crumbs (panko)

1 bunch flat leaf parsley

2 ounces truffles (canned if needed)

DIRECTIONS

To make stuffing, shuck all oysters into medium bowl, reserving liquor (liquid found naturally inside shell).

Finely chop parsley and truffles; add to oysters. A little at a time, add bread crumbs and liquor, until oysters hold together.

Using small paring knife, make small slit into side of each tenderloin steak, creating a small pocket.

Carefully stuff each steak with 2 to 3 oysters plus surrounding stuffing. Season steaks with salt and pepper.

In large sauté pan over medium to high heat, add drizzle of olive oil and steaks, being careful not to overcrowd them. Brown on both sides for 3 to 5 minutes; then place in 400°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on preferred temperature.

Remove steaks from oven and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes; slice on a large bias to serve.

Note: The steak tastes great with demi-glace, a time-consuming (a week!) but worthwhile process.

Demi-Glace

Allow one week to prepare

INGREDIENTS

15 pounds beef or veal knuckle bones

½ bottle red wine

3 pounds carrots

2 pounds yellow onions

2 pounds celery

2 pounds leeks

1 head of garlic

2 shallots

8 bay leaves

1 bunch parsley

1 bunch thyme

1 bunch oregano

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

8 ounces tomato paste

DIRECTIONS

On large sheet pan, lay out beef bones and roast in 300°F oven for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes, smear tomato paste liberally over all bones; return to oven for another hour, being careful not to burn.

In large heavy-bottomed pot, add bones, scraping all “the good stuff” from pan into pot as well. Cover bones with water; place over medium heat until slight bubble. Reduce heat and let simmer 24 hours.

Next day, peel and clean all vegetables; place on sheet tray and roast in 400°F oven for 25 to 30 minutes. Add vegetables, herbs, bay leaves and peppercorns to pot; deglaze pan with red wine. Add (and refill) water to cover bones and vegetables. Cook on very low simmer for another 36 hours.

On fourth day, in large bowl with colander, strain stock, discarding bones and vegetables. Let cool overnight in refrigerator.

Next day, remove fat from top of stock; discard or use for cooking (great for potatoes). Pour stock through strainer into new pot and return to the heat. Bring to a bubble and let simmer for another 24 hours to reduce by at least half and should take on a very shimmery dark color.

To test if demi-glace is ready, pour small amount into bowl and set to refrigerate. If it becomes very firm yet soft to the touch, you did it! If not, reduce the liquid by half and strain and transfer to smaller pots each time.

To serve, scoop spoonful into sauté pan over medium heat; season with salt and pepper, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and swirl.

Fortunately, demi-glace will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for months.

Make cornbread: Preheat oven to 375°F. Use room-temperature butter to grease bottom and sides of 9- by 13-inch baking dish or 10-inch cast-iron pan (if using cast iron, place in oven to get piping hot while mixing cornbread batter — the hot surface creates an even crisper, caramelized crust — once out of oven, add 2 tablespoons butter, lard or bacon fat.

In fine-mesh sieve set over large bowl, sift together flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In food processor, pulse corn kernels until roughly puréed. Scrape corn purée into large bowl; whisk in melted butter, eggs and buttermilk. Stir flour mixture into corn-buttermilk mixture just until combined.

Scrape batter into prepared baking dish. Bake until cornbread is golden and resists light pressure and a toothpick inserted into center comes out nearly clean, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on wire rack for 30 minutes.

While cornbread cools, make honey-bourbon butter. In bowl of standing mixer, add butter. Using whisk attachment, whip butter on high speed until airy and light, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to medium-low and add bourbon. Once bourbon is incorporated, add honey and whip until well-combined.

Slice bread and serve with smears of honey-bourbon butter.

Note: A quality aged cheddar and pickled peppers make a wonderful addition to this recipe.

Chef Red Hauge: A father, fisherman, forager and gardener, Chef Red resides in McMinnville with his partner, Allyson, and son, Anders. Red has spent 25 years cooking alongside celebrated chefs in Chicago, Aspen, Miami, Portland, Boston, St. John, USVI, and New York. He and Raul Salinas III recently opened R&R Culinaire, a scratch kitchen and catering company (www.rnrculinaire.com).