it simply means it is possible to dim the light, you could equally say the dimmer was not able to be called a dimmer unless it were compatible with every light of that voltage on the market couldn’t you ? ;)

I think it is more the way related items are out of step , maybe older dimmers were never made to suit bulbs that did not exist.

If i made a bulb i would not compromise the light output or efficiency to suit a particular style of dimmer, i would make the best bulb i could with the resources and knowledge i had and let dimmer makers catch up with the times.

With no other load, it flashes rapidly and with additional incandescent load on the circuit, the Viribright dims but has bugger-all range (still very bright at minimum).

Jimmy22: it simply means it is possible to dim the light, you could equally say the dimmer was not able to be called a dimmer unless it were compatible with every light of that voltage on the market couldn’t you ? ;)

I think it is more the way related items are out of step , maybe older dimmers were never made to suit bulbs that did not exist.

If i made a bulb i would not compromise the light output or efficiency to suit a particular style of dimmer, i would make the best bulb i could with the resources and knowledge i had and let dimmer makers catch up with the times.

I get what you are saying, but it should be more specific on the packaging. It just says "DIMMABLE". The average consumer will probably see "DIMMABLE" and a bulb with a standard connector and assume that it should work with their standard dimmer.

Remember the considerably higher efficiancy of lower voltage incandesent lighting gives the US about 20% more lumans per watt than you see on 240v lamps. A 23-24w cfl equals a 100 w 110 v lamp but is usually rated at 125w in 230 v countries

Still no more stock of the 8W ES cool white at bunnings wairau. Might have to see if I can get up to constalation after work before they close.

Bloody good lights in the recesssed downlights. Now have my room lit for 24w vs the 69w it was on CFLs and barely notice any difference in the room. Tops of the walls seem a little dimmer because the light is higher up in the recessed cans but that means less light on the TV ;)

So far I've got only 4x Viribright ES 8W and they are great, but one is going back because of a dead LED cluster (there are 6 clusters). To check, use sunglasses and see if all 6 LED clusters are on. The faulty cluster sometimes springs to life for a brief moment and I see the flash of light reflected off walls.

timmmay: Downlights are a really bad plan for energy efficiency. They let so much heat out the power saved by using LED over incandescent is almost irrelevant. If you put eight downlights in a room, even sealed downlights, you'll need to put 2-3 times more heat into the room to keep it a comfortable temperature. That's up to triple the energy costs.