Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig

Overview

This jig allows you to rip thin strips on the left side of the blade, eliminating the danger of pushing narrow strips between the saw and fence. Since the strip is not trapped between the blade and fence, there is also less risk of binding and kickback. It's simple to use; a single knob locks the jig into the miter track and locks your setting at the same time. Ball bearing guide keeps your workpiece firmly against the fence for perfect repeatability. Use the graduated scale to fine-tune for extremely thin strips.

Features:

The perfect tool for edging, inlay, bent laminations and more

Solid phenolic for durability

Low-profile miter track clamp locks in at any point along the miter track

Also works great on the bandsaw as a single-point fence for cutting curved slats in multiples

Adjusts from 1-3/8" away from your miter track to 5-11/16" away from your miter track, enough for the thinnest rips

Measures 5-1/4"W x 8"L

The jig is stationary, while the fence is moved for each cut

Fits 3/4" W x 3/8" D Miter Tracks

Important Notes

Ripping thin strips requires the use of a zero-clearance insert, sold separately.

BEST ANSWER:The knob attaches to a 5/16" , countersunk bolt that is 1 1/2" long. The bolt comes up from the base plate, trough the miter guide. The countersunk bolt expands the miter guide to secure it in the miter slot.

BEST ANSWER:The knob attaches to a 5/16" , countersunk bolt that is 1 1/2" long. The bolt comes up from the base plate, trough the miter guide. The countersunk bolt expands the miter guide to secure it in the miter slot.

BEST ANSWER:The bearing on the thin rip jig acts as a positive stop for repeatable thin strip creation. It does act as a feather board as the rolling bearing keeps positive pressure against the piece being cut. The reference lines on the yellow band also allows for small incremental adjustments. It works equally well as a re-saw guide on the bandsaw for thin strips. The only negative that I have on this jig is the lack of a hole in the jig to hang it up for easy access.

I use it to make thin strips for basket handles, basket staves, rims, and dulcimer sides. This works better and safer than the feather boards that I was using previously.

BEST ANSWER:The bearing on the thin rip jig acts as a positive stop for repeatable thin strip creation. It does act as a feather board as the rolling bearing keeps positive pressure against the piece being cut. The reference lines on the yellow band also allows for small incremental adjustments. It works equally well as a re-saw guide on the bandsaw for thin strips. The only negative that I have on this jig is the lack of a hole in the jig to hang it up for easy access.

I use it to make thin strips for basket handles, basket staves, rims, and dulcimer sides. This works better and safer than the feather boards that I was using previously.

There should be no reason you couldn't place a feather board in front. of the jig. The jig does have a small roller bearing to allow the wood to move and avoid pinching it. A feather board would help to prevent kickback on the fence side of the blade. If you use a push stick and keep support behind the piece you should be fine. Nice little jig for repeatable thin rips.

BEST ANSWER:The miter slider is 18.85mm wide and 9.15mm deep. So this portion of the jig will not work on your tool. So I would say it would not work for you.You have an odd sized miter slot on this saw.

BEST ANSWER:The miter slider is 18.85mm wide and 9.15mm deep. So this portion of the jig will not work on your tool. So I would say it would not work for you.You have an odd sized miter slot on this saw.

BEST ANSWER:It doesn't matter which side of the blade you place the jig, as long as your fence is on the side of the blade opposite the jig. You'll have to have some reference surface (i.e. the fence) to get consistent cuts.

BEST ANSWER:It doesn't matter which side of the blade you place the jig, as long as your fence is on the side of the blade opposite the jig. You'll have to have some reference surface (i.e. the fence) to get consistent cuts.

BEST ANSWER:I use the single Thin Rip jig and a finishing blade to cut walnut basketry strips of .070 thick and 50" long and only have variation of .001"-.005" over the entire lengths which is finished on a drum sander. If you need additional support on long pieces for accuracy, I would recommend a finger jig in front of the Thin Rip jig to add additional pressure against the workpiece and fence. A second Thin Rip jig could be used for the same purpose.

BEST ANSWER:I use the single Thin Rip jig and a finishing blade to cut walnut basketry strips of .070 thick and 50" long and only have variation of .001"-.005" over the entire lengths which is finished on a drum sander. If you need additional support on long pieces for accuracy, I would recommend a finger jig in front of the Thin Rip jig to add additional pressure against the workpiece and fence. A second Thin Rip jig could be used for the same purpose.

This device acts like a stop before the cut is made. It needs to be placed a few inched in front of the blade as shown in the photo (not in the middle or behind the blade). I do not see how 2 devices would improve accuracy.

BEST ANSWER:Dear Wm M.Assuming you are going to use this jig in the same orientation as shown in the Rockler catalog, there is a roller bearing at the apex of the curved surface on the right side. This bearing is butted up against the piece that is to be cut. When the jig is set to maximum width cut (the jig is all the way to the left), I measured the distance from the right edge of the bearing race to the right edge of the mitre slot insert to be 1 5/16". When the jig is positioned to a minimum cur (jig is all the way to the right), I measured the distance from the right edge of the roller bearing race to the right edge of the mitre slot insert to be 5 11/16".Remember, this jig has a mitre bar insert underneath that fits into the mitre slot and the 5 star knob on the top allows one to adjust the blue top portion left or right for the desired width cut. Also remember, as is shown in the rockler catalog, you are cutting the pieces off the LEFT side of the blade. Hope this helps !

BEST ANSWER:Dear Wm M.Assuming you are going to use this jig in the same orientation as shown in the Rockler catalog, there is a roller bearing at the apex of the curved surface on the right side. This bearing is butted up against the piece that is to be cut. When the jig is set to maximum width cut (the jig is all the way to the left), I measured the distance from the right edge of the bearing race to the right edge of the mitre slot insert to be 1 5/16". When the jig is positioned to a minimum cur (jig is all the way to the right), I measured the distance from the right edge of the roller bearing race to the right edge of the mitre slot insert to be 5 11/16".Remember, this jig has a mitre bar insert underneath that fits into the mitre slot and the 5 star knob on the top allows one to adjust the blue top portion left or right for the desired width cut. Also remember, as is shown in the rockler catalog, you are cutting the pieces off the LEFT side of the blade. Hope this helps !

I have used the thin rip tables jig on my Dewalt DW 745 contractor saw and it worked superbly. The saw has two miter tracks and the (commonly used) track to the left of the blade is actually only about 4 3/4" from the blade. I would recommend using THAT track in conjunction with the fence to the right of the blade (you NEED the fence for this setup as you ride your workpieces against it (see Rockler picture) - the jig itself is just a depth stop). However, if you really must use the 'other' miter track that is 6" to the right of the blade (in this case with a fence to the left), this little jig would still do the job; in it's fullest extension it can in fact reach the blade from the right hand side track and the measuring marks on that yellow strip are fully available at this 6" extension.

BEST ANSWER:This item fits in a miter track that is 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Make sure the small flanges just below the head of the bolt are in line with the miter track to ensure that it tightens properly.

BEST ANSWER:This item fits in a miter track that is 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Make sure the small flanges just below the head of the bolt are in line with the miter track to ensure that it tightens properly.

My Hitachi contractor table saw miter slot is only 9/16" wide by 3/8" deep. This Rockler jig description says miter slot bar is 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. Does Rockler have a miter bar that can be installed in place of the 3/4" wide one that would fit my 9/16" wide table saw slot?

BEST ANSWER:No. However, you might be able to make a bar out of oak that is 9/16" wide x 5" long x 3/8" deep and screw it in place of the original bar. Then the jig would need to be clamped to the table top to hold its position firmly in place. Maybe using a 2x4 cut to the length of your saw table top mounted on the blue top of the jig with "C" clamps on each end of the 2x4 would hold the jig in place. You could cut a 5 1/4" wide dado in the 2x4 1/8" deep or so to better fit over the Blue top of the jig. Just a possible solution for you.

BEST ANSWER:No. However, you might be able to make a bar out of oak that is 9/16" wide x 5" long x 3/8" deep and screw it in place of the original bar. Then the jig would need to be clamped to the table top to hold its position firmly in place. Maybe using a 2x4 cut to the length of your saw table top mounted on the blue top of the jig with "C" clamps on each end of the 2x4 would hold the jig in place. You could cut a 5 1/4" wide dado in the 2x4 1/8" deep or so to better fit over the Blue top of the jig. Just a possible solution for you.

Allows for cutting thin strips of consistent dimension. The miter bar fits perfectly in my Craftsman contractor bar. I used it to cut facing strips for my kitchen cabinet shelves. Looks great compared to the glue-on paper the builder used.

The Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig is the best ! It is the best $29.99 I spent in a long time. I took it out of the box and cut 54 pieces of 1/16 oak strips for a basket weave project I was working on.You hit a home run with this one./Tom Turowski

Should have got this for my table saw a long time ago. Now I have no problem of ripping thin stock to whatever thickness I want, ease of use and setting up. Recommend this jig to anyone ripping thin wood stock.

I had built several simple one time jigs to make narrow strips for several projects that I was working on. Because I was building a new mobile tool chest for my garage I start to make another simple jig to cut 3/32" strips out of poplar. I had just receive my monthly flyer from Rockler and saw this adjustable jig and thought "What the Hell" and went to the local store and bought it. It so simple to use I didn't look at the instruction sheet that came with it. Cut my first strip to perfection no need to make any adjustment. Money well spent.

This jig is very accurate and easy to set up. I needed to cut several 1/8" by 1/8" strips of ebony for decorative box trim. I was able to do it with this jig and my trusty micro jig grr-ripper with no problems at all. This is one of of those things that you could make for yourself, but for the price and quality of this one, it's not worth it. If you have thin strips to cut, you can't go wrong with this jig.

I like to make my own moldings. For larger stuff, I use my Woodmaster, but for thin cover strips or fine moldings, I first cut them on the router table to whatever profile I'm using and then I can cut them off using this jig and every one is exactly the same width so they miter perfectly. Really a great little tool. My SawStop saw has 3/4x7/16" slots so it works great for me. I highly recommend this jig.

Works very well. I have a Bosch 4100 contractor saw and the distance from the left side miter slot is maybe 1/8 of an inch from allowing the ball bearing to touch the blade. When you lock the jig down it backs up slightly so I just enlarged the slot in the jig with a round file. Works perfectly now. Cut some needed pine strips at 1/16 and 1/32 thickness.

After too many close calls ripping thin strips against a fence, I decided it was time to purchase this. Glad I did. Wish I had done earlier. Works great: accurate, simple to use, consistent cuts, well built, etc. A real time saver. The other benefit of this jig is that it allowed me to "up" my game in the projects I was building. No longer do I use the iron-on edging. This jig provides better result with a more professional look. At the cost of this jig, it has already been paid back vs. buying iron-on edging, (besides, my wife no longer wonders how glue ended up on the iron).

Ripping narrow stock up against the fence is not only not advised,, but very dangerous as well. This jig is an incredible tool, easy to use and very well-made. It is exactly what I needed it to do which was make very narrow repeat cuts, many of which were a 16th of an inch. Even if you only make narrow cuts on occasion, you won't be sorry for getting this.

This saved me a lot of time from having to stop building, to make a jig that does the same thing. Good quality and does a great job. My only request would be a tighter fit in the track. I got around this challenge by using masking tape on the edges of the track but all in all I would definitely recommend this product.