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In the testing phase of building my cabinet, I had the DMD displayed on the same monitor as my backglass and it worked pretty good. But when my real DMD and PinMD1 board arrived, I was floored with how much better it was. As others have said, it's MUCH easier to use than using a dmd on a monitor. No moving, resizing or rotating of the DMD display when first setting up a table makes it much easier. When using the monitor some DMD displays on some tables just did not look right no matter how much I fiddled with resizing it. With the real DMD and PinDMD1 everything just works and works well! It also fits inside your cabinet a lot better than trying to shoehorn another display in there. Another advantage is you only need a single video card to drive your displays instead of two. The small amount of money you might save by using a monitor instead of a real DMD isn't really worth it in my opinion.
Materials and associated costs needed for Real DMD
PinDMD
DMD plus power supply
Materials and associated costs needed for using a monitor
Monitor
Extra Video Card to run the third monitor.
Modifications to cabinet (This may or may not cost you more depending on if you are building your own cabinet or if you are buying one that will need to be modified.)
Your time (Remember your time is valuable, it may not seem bad to move and resize a dmd when installing a single table, but if you plan on installing several hundred of them on your cabinet, it adds up.)

They're Amazon Warehouse open box deals (ie they were bought and returned or were slightly damaged in the warehouse or in shipping). Each model is sold listing any problems with them. The ones being sold for $550.25 had the following listed in the selling description: Front of housing has minor cosmetic imperfection. Minor cosmetic imperfection on top or sides of item. Eligible for 30-day return policy.
Based on the description, it sounds like some minor scratches on the bezel surrounding the screen. Since we remove the bezel to put the screens into our cabinets, buying one with some slight blemishes shouldn't be a big deal. As long as the screen works, you should be good to go. As for why someone might want one of the older samsungs rather than the newest model: price. When new models come out, the older ones usually get discounted and can often be picked up even cheaper as an Amazon Warehouse open box deal. I have a UN46D6000 model and it's extremely thin and perfect for a pinball cabinet. It's a couple models old by now, so there should be several models to choose from that are comparable to it, including the UN46EH6000 I linked to above.

Amazon has the UN46EH6000 on sale as an amazon warehouse deal for $550.25. They are open box with the following issues: Front of housing has minor cosmetic imperfection. Minor cosmetic imperfection on top or sides of item. Eligible for 30-day return policy.
Since you have to remove the housing to put it into your cabinet, who cares about the condition of the housing as long as the screen works.
Samsung UN46EH6000 46-Inch 1080p 120Hz LED HDTV (Black)
I picked up my UN46D6000 (the UN46EH6000 I linked to above is the newer version of the UN46D6000) tv as an amazon warehouse deal and it said the same thing but I looked over the housing carefully and couldn't see any imperfections. The box on the other hand was pretty beat up, but the tv was fine.

Those edges look sharp! I hope you're planning on putting some padding or something over them. Even a layer of duct tape would be better than nothing. Anything to prevent you accidentally slicing your hand/arm/head/jugular vein/etc open would be a good idea.

You don't want the $50 board. You want the $300 virtual output kit.
http://pipi6542.staging-cloud.netregistry.net/zebulons/index.php/category/feedback-controllers/virtual-output-kit-detail
If you want a shaker motor and a gear motor then pick up his Shaker/Gear Motor Combo board as well. He offers it both with and without a speed control. The Virtual Output kit comes with a speed control board so if you're ordering them both order the shaker/gear motor without it.
http://pipi6542.staging-cloud.netregistry.net/zebulons/index.php/category/feedback-devices/shaker-gear-motor-combo-detail
He also sells a pre-wired RGB LED light Bar if that's something you want.
http://pipi6542.staging-cloud.netregistry.net/zebulons/index.php/category/feedback-devices/rgb-lightbar-detail
Zebulon is based in Canada, so it's cheaper to order everything at once to save on shipping.
The advantage is it simplies wiring everything in your cab. It's also wired up to prevent blowing out your LEDWIZ and/or PC.

Zebulons new booster boards use their own PC power supply and convert the voltage to the correct amount for the contactors and replay knocker. You can run a replay knocker up to 32VDC and the contactors you can run from 11VDC up to 27VDC. The booster boards come preset to 32VDC for the Replay Knocker and 24VDC for the Contactors.

Someone was asking me about my contactors, so I figured I would add a few photos. I opened them up to see what was inside and found the spring is attached to a metal plate in the top part of the contactor(on the right) that sits on top of another metal plate in the bottom part of the contactor (seen on the left). They seem to make a nice solid clack and seem to cycle fast enough. They should work out fine.

It turns out there is a fan on this monitor. Mine started making noises and seems to have stopped working. I popped open the back of the monitor (the back comes off really easy, just remove a bunch of screws and slide it off) and it looks like the fan is really easy to get at.
You have to remove three more screws that are holding down the bracket that the fan is attached to and then the fan itself is held to the bracket by two more screws. The power cable to the fan plugs into a small extension cable that plugs into the motherboard. It should be really easy to replace. The fan is an NMB 1604KL-04W-B50 12V fan. I bought a replacement fan from DigiKey. [LINK] The cost with tax and shipping was $14.79. I could have gotten it for about half the price from a chinese ebay seller but I wanted to make sure the fan was genuine and not some cheap knock-off that could fail again. There are times when you order the cheap stuff from chinese ebay sellers and there are times when you order from a reputable seller. Since the life of a much more expensive piece of equipment hangs in the balance (ie the NEC 30" LCD3000 monitor) I'm ordering from Digi-Key. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.

After a lot of messing around, I've finally got Direct B2S to work on my cabinet without sound glitching. I updated Hyperpin, virtual Pinball, VPinMAME, B2S server and FPLaunch to the latest and greatest versions, made sure they were all patched with the 4GB patch, set them to run as administrator and made sure compatibilty mode with windows XP was UNCHECKED! I'm not sure why UVP had no problems with the exes being in compatibilty mode but Direct B2S did. I unchecked them all and now the sound is finally working as it should. Now that I've got that straightened out, I can start loading more tables and backglasses.

About Us

HyperSpin is a frontend, it is not a game or an emulator. A frontend is a menu system that can launch other programs and emulators from one menu. Without a frontend you would have to individually launch each program in Windows. If you're using an emulator you would also have to find and launch the games you want to play. HyperSpin simplifies that process by using a system of menus to launch your games.