There is poetry to Ostertag’s practices. He looks for the nuance of terroir rather than the typicity of a grape varietal. In an act of rejection against the official classifications dictated by the A.O.C. Ostertag’s vins de fruit or “fruit wines” are made to express varietal character and feature the flavor of the grapes themselves. The first to be harvested, these wines are aged 6-9 months before release and are meant to be drunk young (within five years of release). The vins de fruit can be identified by their green bottles and the “Dancing Vines” label.