In 2015 and 2016, there was a pair of golden eagles at Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

It's no Astroman, but this route has a couple things going for it. The best things about this route are that the rock is impeccable, the line follows the major weakness in the cliff (there's an elegance in this, when it happens, I think), it takes good gear at the 5.6 parts, and you get to climb for a good long while. Except for the bleached crack at the top, the moves are fun.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Follow the huge left facing dihedral. Find the line of least resistance, with a few possibilities. The pitch ends to the right. Use long runners, or carry a winch to bring the rope up at the belay. There are some cool moves in an odd, low-angle chimney at the bottom, and a fun mantel/step up to the right. Belay less than one rope-length above at a modern rap station.

Pitch 2 (5.easy/J1): With just a few moves of fifth class climbing, make your way through the low angle section to the base of the next pitch. If memory serves me, this is a traditional anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Fifth class pretty much the whole way, with a bleached, wide, low-angle 5.6 crack at the top. Belay at the trees - a 48" sling makes for an easy belay set-up.

It may be possible to do this in two pitches with a 70m, but communication difficulties, rope drag, and length will conspire against you. The three pitch split-up feels natural.

I haven't done any routes above, but this is a great way to access the upper cliffs.

Location

Hike to the base of Lower Eight Mile Buttress. Locate the massive left facing dihedral, and scoot up the starting slab that angles to the left. If your starting spot has a bolted line branching to the left (Thunderball, bolted 10c), and a large overhang further left of that, you are in the right place.

Protection

Depending on your comfort level, bring somewhere between a half rack and two racks of cams, with one set of nuts. Most of the cruxes protect well with big cams (2"-4"). The descent to the west was uncomfortable. Bring descent shoes, and use your best discretion. The hike down the east side may be better.

I have to completely disagree. Pitch 1 = fun moves off start low angle ly'backing. Then interesting climbing with a *slight route finding challenge for the remainder of the pitch. Pitch 2= 4th class (almost 3rd) scramblin up to a roof and awesome belay ledge. Pitch 3 climbs through the roof on the best rock of the route (really fun here) and turns onto a slab featuring a huge low-angle o/w crack. The roof and the entire crack are the best climbing on the route. I would love to find a long low angle o/w like that!

To avoid extra spicyness on pitch 1, don't climb direct through the flared chimney. Bad rock, bad pro. A fall could be really bad in or above there.

From the "modern belay/rap station" one can climb to the top in one pitch with a 70, though it will be a rope stretcher.

Another option is instead of belaying at the bolts, climb maybe 30 feet higher up grassy 3/4th class to a crack where you can build a gear anchor. I would recommend this way. It also might be possible to top out with a 60 if you belay here.

Oh and the descent is very easy going to the left (looking towards the road) Follow a trail until it starts going down it will be obvious.

For the OW the average leader will want at least 2 larger pieces such as a 4 or 5 Camalot.

This is a good 5.6 multi pitch . It will be pretty challenging to the new 5.6 trad leader, a step up from R&D. When considering the chimney or not you may want to know that the right side variation is a steep move on finger locks ( 5.7) The chimney protects fine if you find the spots and use long slings. 2nd pitch is low 5th class to a large flat ledge with good pro . 3rd pitch: right leaning 1/2-3/4" cracks, layback up and around a corner on hand size crack, wander up to the OW, 1 #5 Camalot can be moved up with you. A good 5.6 continuation is the Stump route on Middle 8 mile.

Climbed it 4/24 after getting a late start. Found only one other group on it but they were definitely after it as a beginning trad lead climb.

Solid rock but if you're just starting to lead you might want to watch after you come around the corner on the first pitch. The crack that follows the wall just about 25 or so feet off the deck was a bit strenuous for a 5.6. Looked like the other guys went for the less-protectable roof. Follow the wall on the right to the first anchor. Not really possible to hear your follow on many of these pitches so work out some rope signals or bring walkies.

Definite scramble getting up the second pitch with one or two moves while you're coming right around the roof to the dead tree just on the other side. Gear anchor here and I'd suggest not using that dead tree.

Awesome offwidth climbing on that last pitch. You'd have a hard time falling out of it but you might want a bigger cam (camalot #3 or 4). Belay off the living tree up top.

Scrambled down a sandy gully up and to the left and hiked up the seemingly trail-less slope to start the Stump route. Seems similar quality and rating.

I've climbed this several times now. With about a single rack of cams and nuts you'll be fine. Having a #5 for the off width at the top will help a lot, I'd also bring a #4 for the beginning of the crack if you're a new trad climber and would benefit from more security.

On the first pitch when you round a corner after the first 10 feet you'll see two paths: to the left is a large flake (chimney if you're really small) that you can easily walk up the slab while using it to hold yourself; halfway up it is a sliver in the rock that takes a micro cam (it would take my 0 or 00 metolius easily, maybe larger too). To the right you'll see a more protectable route but definitely has some 5.7 finger locking moves and is harder. Once at the top you'll see bolts you can belay from.

Second pitch is straight forward, go straight up towards the dead tree way above till you're at a roof (kind of 3rd-early fifth class scramble). Traditionally you'd belay here with a gear anchor for the beginning of the third pitch, but I prefer having the climber do the roof moves and belay from a gear anchor near the dead tree (definitely don't use it in the anchor). This way the person leading the second pitch still has some real climbing involved. :)

Third pitch is straight forward, go up the off width to the large live tree above that names the route. If you have a four I'd place it at the base of the crack to give some security, then use the five during the crack as you shimmy it up with you. The four definitely will hardly fit in the crack above and you'd need a #5. Trick to the crack is to keep you're feet on the outside lip of it and use the slab for holds. The crack easily eats legs.

Descent is to skiers left (to the right as you top the off width crack). Descend till you find yourself at trails to go to the road. At some point a trail will go right which returns you to the base of the route, but the descent is large enough that I recommend not leaving stuff at the base.

Overall I rate this route as one of my favorite easier multi pitch trad routes in the area, and is also a great way to get to Stump route which is of similar difficulty.