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Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains then remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and soak the entire carb in denatured alcohol for 30 minutes. Now clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the "blue" items on the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. Don't mess with #16 but if you must, be sure to count the number of turns and replace the same number of turns.< < READ CLOSELY > >Be sure to put all screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten #8 and #12 adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLYseat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.Please rate this answer. Thanks!

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Hi, Michael if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will idle and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or better, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper load test on the battery and replace as necessary, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a carb dip or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
8. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.My ZX9R wont start need help asap1999 Kawasaki ZX7R Ninja Won Start Need Your Help Fuel Economy Hypermiling...Kawasaki Ninja ZX 9R Service ManualOEM Parts for Kawasakihttp://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM_nv.php?view_lang=EN&spec=EU&category=MC&book_no=99922-1933-03&lang_code=EN&code=&nickname=&modelyear=

Are there any valves, vacuum hoses related to or on the air box? Otherwise should not matter but if you need to hold hand over the intake to raise pressure to suck fuel out of a carbureted system need to know more about it. Did it run okay before air box was removed? Try to re-install the air box would possibly be the simplest way to find out because if it then runs okay you have your answer and if not you need to go further into the problem. Has anyone been messing with carbs, as with a carbureted system in contrast to a fuel injected system where fuel pressure would be governing and holding hand over the intake should not affect fuel delivery at all but only fuel rail pressure or injector size or pulse width would. In a carbureted system the float level is the most critical thing. and if it is not correct this could also be your problem and that would be a first thing to correct. What type of carb(s) are on the bike??? CV or otherwise??? Does the bike run at higher rpm's or just not at all unless fuel is being sprayed into the intake or intake covered??? If not at all there could be a myriad of problems. But again, poper float level is critical and should be your first carbureted system check point. Also fuel filter, pinched or otherwise restricted fuel lines etc. Does the bike have a vacuum operated fuel shutoff valve?? If so does it source its vacuum from the air box?? Could there be a massive downstream induction system air leak?? Check for that also BUT the history of the bike's running before the present problem is crucial in diagnosing. ALSO not assuming is important and I have been assuming it is a four stroke engine. If it is 2 stroke there are a myriad of different things to look at right away. SO, give some more information to get some more assistance.

Only 3 things to check air, fuel and spark. Check your spark by removing your left spark plug cap and place an old plug in it, then touch it to the side of the block. Crank the engine if you see a spark then, move to the right hand side and do the same. If you have spark on both sides, then both coils should be OK. If no or very weak spark, your coils could be faulty.
If you have good spark, check your air filter see if it is clean. If it looks dirty it is dirty and won't flow good air. If it is oily then your pcv is blocked.
If clean and good, then check fuel. First thing to check is, is there any fuel in carb bowl. On bottom of the bowl should be an allen head screw, undo it only until fuel comes out, check all four (one at a time). If no or very little fuel, then maybe your needle and seat are worn or stuck. lightly tap each offending carb and see if fuel comes out. If fuel starts to flow, shut off screw, do all carbs the same way. Try to restart bike, if it starts and stalls. You will need to replace all 4 needles and seats. Kawasaki's are notorious for dropping carbs.

with hand off ur not gitten enuf sucktion to pull fuel into carb-- the butterfly valve probly needs cleanin--get a clymer manual and work on the carb-the book is detailed in rebuild and diagnosis-petro needs more than just a line!

ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains then remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and soak the entire carb in denatured alcohol for 30 minutes. Now clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the "blue" items on the carb and spray into the screw holes as well. Don't mess with #16 but if you must, be sure to count the number of turns and replace the same number of turns.< < READ CLOSELY > >Be sure to put all screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten #8 and #12 adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLYseat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.Please rate this answer. Thanks!

You are due for a fuel system cleaning. With the bike sitting, you have gotten plaque build up in the lines, and the carb. Start by removing the lines and soaking in carb cleaner then blow out with compressed air. An even better idea would be to replace the lines because the plaque could loosen and make it to a jet. You will need to replace the inline filter and make sure the screen in your tank is clean and free of debris. The carb will likely need to be removed, taken apart and soaked in carb cleaner as well. It will need to be blown out with compressed air...especially the jets. Be careful not to blow out needle seats unless you have replacements, which would be a good idea as well. Replace the gasket that goes from the carb to the intake to eliminate the possibility of pulling air there. Good Luck! I hope you find this very helpful!

I assume your bike has been in storage for awhile...Your engine is running on choke ONLY, that's why when you cover the air inlet it's the same as what the choke does.....your jets in the carb are clogged and will facilitate a removal and cleaning of the carbs my friend.....find a trusted mechanic and you'll be rolling in no time...Good Luck to you......Tim