B16a header

I have a 1991 civic DX hatch, with a B16a in it. I would like to put a header on it but I don't want to hack my front lower subframe to bits so it will fit. Is there any other solution, i have tried to see if there is an aftermarket subframe to compensate for this but I have yet to find one.
Any suggestions??
Thanks in advance.

check out the classifieds section of honda-tech, I saw a group buy for what i think maybe a jimfab, or maybe some other guys front crossmember for crx's and 4th gen civics. he had a lot of vouches for himself, and the price was a little better 270 i think for the cross member.

I have a 90 dx and I just put a 4 into 1 dc header for a 2000 si on my b16a.
It fit without any cutting, In fact, props to DC for such a nice fit, but I am going to change my crossmember to a place racing crossmember so I can take advantage of a front mount and a lighter crossmember. I have seen these on ebay for $200
item #2430374497.
Ralph

Originally posted by 2phatt@Sep 22 2003, 11:39 PM I have a 90 dx and I just put a 4 into 1 dc header for a 2000 si on my b16a.
It fit without any cutting, In fact, props to DC for such a nice fit, but I am going to change my crossmember to a place racing crossmember so I can take advantage of a front mount and a lighter crossmember. I have seen these on ebay for $200
item #2430374497.
Ralph

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i would stay away from that place racing bar. looks like it eliminates the radius rods on a crx. which help reduce wheel hop. doesnt look that strong to me either. just looks like poor construction to me. go with the jimfab bar. excellent design, has beefier radius rods, well constructed, and is much stronger then the stock unit.

Originally posted by kingwilly@Sep 23 2003, 04:44 AM why do you want that front mount?i would get jimfab or z10

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you dont need the front mount if you have good mounts like hasport. imo place racing blows. they used to be good, but their reputation has gone down hill. the products just arent great quality. and i dont know about the weight of the jimfab bar. i know the main bar is chromoly, but i dont know how heavy that is. and why would you want to keep the stock radius rods when you can get beefier ones from jimfab or z10. and imo jimfab has the superior design for its function.

Hasport mounts are great, I have them, but just because it works
doesn't mean it can't be better. Honda/Acura designed their motor
to have 4 mounts. Trust me, if they thought 3 mounts were sufficient
they would have saved some money and done it that way.
Hasport beefed them up to handle the added stress, but all of their
mounts still use the same bolts and brackets that stock mounts do,
so they haven't changed the load capability, only the ability to handle
greater stress from the vibration of only having 3 mounts.
Like I said it works but it isn't the best setup.
Ralph

I dont know about you guys but i just saw that jimfab front cross member and shit that just solved my TURBO not fitting,I have the radiator and the intercooler so close together it would not fit i had no space for the piping also now that i learned about this JIMFAB im getting one THNANKS FOR THE INFO.

honda/acura designed their cars with 4 mounts for stability of the engine. BUT they have to use rubber mounts becasue of the geometry of a inline 4 engine. inline 4 engine causes a lot of vibration. the following was taken from a pinned thread in the General Tech Forum found here-> http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?...showtopic=13781 to prove my point:

Back in the day, engines were just bolted to the frame rails of the cars making for very little inter-chassis movement(engine moving inside the car). This was ok, becuase with a V8, the power hits every 45 degrees alone the axis so the vibration is distributed pretty evenly over a circle.

However in I4 configurations, the power hits every 90 degress of the crank turn and it's momentum sometimes is transferred forward or backward depending upon where in the cycle, each cylinder is. This is why they came up with rubber engine mounts, that look something like this:

This flexibility makes it so that the harsh vibrations that 4cyl engines create don't transfer into the frame rails, and in turn into the cabin, making for a very quiet ride.

Above you see what we in the 4 banger world would call a "front" mount, when in actuality it's a side mount. (front of the engine is the accessories side. Think V8). This front mount is also called a Torque mount, and aside from the primary function of holding that part of the engine up, it's secondary purpose is to allow the engine to move when you nail the throttle. This actually eats up torque and keeps it from getting to the wheels prohibiting burnouts or breaking the tires loose as easily. This is done in regulary consumer vehicles for stability, and quietness.

Here you see the rear mount(another side mount in actuallity).

You can see the extra space put into the mount, but not nearly as much as the front mount, this mount is designed to absorb the jolts of shifting the manual transmission. The mount for the AT Accord and most AT cars are different for each respective vehicle.

These two mounts are crucial in the control of interchassis movement. To make a car ride easier and quieter, soften these up. For racecar applications where you need the most torque and horsepower to reach the wheels, you make them solid. Making them solid is a big choice because once you've done this there's no going back without a lot of work.

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now, the reason why hasport only uses 3 mounts is becasue they use solid mounts. with the extra stability of their mounts, the 4th is unneccessary. Hasport's 3 mounts hold the engine stiffer then Honda's 4. and although this will cause some vibration in the chassis of whatever car this is in, we as tuners can accept this for the gains in performance.

ADDITIONALLY, that bar is made by place racing. hence it will be designed to work in conjunction with the place racing mounts. and since the mounting position IS different between the hasport and place racing mounts, i highly doubt that it would even work in conjuction with anyother engine mounted in a crx using mounts other then place racing.

please dont talk shit if you dont know what you are talking about. thank you. drag through

i had place racing make me a set of custom mounts for my crx/b16 and they are good quality but i would not get there front crossmember setup..you dont need that 4th mount..get what most people recommend=jimfab or z10

I am pretty sure you didn't read the thread you call your "proof" bozo.
The thread is about stiffening the front and rear mounts in order to tranfer torque to the wheels. Try reading the whole thread. I am hoping you can read. Obviously you can sound out words but your comprehension sucks.
No where does that thread say you gain any performance by not having a front
mount. What he says is that you stiffen the front and rear mounts to increase
torque to the wheels. Not get rid of one of them.
Why do you think they use a higher durometer for racing mounts.

Can you say "durometer"

Howyousay

"please dont talk shit if you dont know what you are talking about. thank you. drag through "