Good Manufacturing Practices, Launches from in-cosmetics 2014, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Early April 2014

Posted: April 8, 2014

BASF was awarded the Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) certification for cosmetic ingredients according to the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI). The certification applies to eleven BASF sites across all regions producing ingredients for the personal care industry. It confirms that the sites comply with strict guidelines on product quality and industry hygiene during the manufacturing process. In the long term, BASF aims to achieve GMP certifications for all relevant cosmetic ingredients production sites worldwide.

Clariant announced its membership in the chemical industry initiative Together for Sustainability (TfS), an organization founded in 2011 and aiming at jointly improving sustainability practices within the supply chains of the chemical industry. Clariant becomes the eighth member in the initiative with AkzoNobel, BASF, Bayer, Evonik Industries, Henkel, Lanxess and Solvay—jointly operating global supplier assessments and audit programs through independent experts. This avoids the need for each of the members to conduct their own programs, by sharing scorecard ratings within the TfS member group on a web-based collaborative platform. Assessing sustainability requirements through the program, it aims at lowering risks in the procurement process but also reduces the burden for suppliers to participate in numerous different programs.

Univar announced Univar Italy has been appointed the official distributor of fragrances for chemical supplier Kao Corporation.

Rossow Cosmétiques debuted a new logo, with the new image as a symbolic link the company is and the link it creates between its suppliers and customers. The company also is simplifying its business structures and implementing more efficient internal tools and an interactive website.

New Launches

For its presence at the 2014 in-cosmetics, BASF presented a range of new ingredients and concepts. First, driving the development of its Care Creations brand, BASF announced a plan to take a more science-based approach to explore consumer needs: the focus is on a validated typology system with which users can define different consumer personalities. Based on this, in hair care, BASF’s new Ultrahold Power styling polymer targets the “Energetic” archetype, and the polymer provides hold in applications such as hair spray, gel and cream. It also is easy to use and provides a high level of formulation flexibility. And addressing the need for high-performance hair gel, BASF debuted Luvigel Fit Up, a thickener polymer that works to reduce the risk of flaking from extreme styling formulations and broaden the spectrum for hairstyles that are preferred by the “Energetic” archetype. Also, the new Vibracolor Moonlight blue hair dye is characterized by its color intensity and color stability when shampooing, even at low dosage. In other launches, BASF’s new Cetiol Ultimate was create to answer the rising market demand for new formulation textures and skin sensations. The fast-spreading emollient meets a range of claims from ultra-thin oil-in-water formulations to smooth dry body oils and very light facial foundations. Another new option from BASF, Perlaura, is a water extract from the roots of meadow bistort (polygonum bistorta) that participates in the maintenance of the dermo-epidermal junction and dermal capillaries cohesion for a combined optical and biological radiance. The new anti-aging active contributes to restore skin’s homeostasis and integrity. Radianskin is a pure molecule that works to erase dark spots from the face and hands. And Slim-Excess, which was developed to help shape face and body contours, uses the red algae hydrolysate with proven efficacy on both face and body reshaping, inspired by studies conducted in the field of obesity.

With approximately 50% of women and 30% of men claiming to have sensitive skin, Sederma targets the needs for this skin type with its new ingredient launch, Pacifeel. Pacifeel is a plant-based active ingredient that addresses both the signs and causes of sensitive and reactive skin. In addition to alleviating skin discomfort and visibly fading redness, Pacifeel improves skin’s resilience against aggressions to provide reinforced protection for sensitive skin. Through its dual-action Pacifeel effectively pacifies the skin, leaving it feeling and looking more beautiful.

Innospec introduced a new variant of its flagship ester Finsolv TN. Finsolv TN-G is focused on sustainability. While the original Finsolv TN is based on synthetic raw materials, Innospec’s laboratory was able to recreate the ester with raw materials approaching 50% natural. It also succeeded in maintaining all the performance attributes, and the INCI name remains unchanged.

The Lubrizol Corporation announces the launch of Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer, a new acrylates copolymer grade targeting pigmented formulations used in skin care, sun care and color cosmetic applications. This new polymer enables product developers to achieve excellent emulsion stability and desired aesthetic properties in challenging systems containing pigments and electrolytes at levels required to deliver efficacy. The resulting formulas offer the user better protection and even tone in sun care, skin-perfecting and color cosmetic products. It also offers a pleasant sensorial experience, encouraging repeat use. Lubrizol also launched the new Carbopol Silk 100 Polymer, targeted for shampoo applications. It delivers salt synergistic rheology that provides suspension even at low surfactant levels, and it contributes to conditioning performance in applications combined with conditioning polymers and silicones. Carbopol Silk 100 enables shampoo formulas that help restore smoothness, softness and shine to hair while providing care for the hair and scalp. And the company also debuted a new solution hair color applications—the Chromapol 5 Polymer is a new technology offering five key benefits to deliver rheology and sensory innovation in hair color applications. It allows for product offerings such as clear gels and glossy creams with pleasant aesthetics, and it delivers no drip rheology, is free from fatty alcohols and provides pleasing hair sensory.

At in-cosmetics 2014, Symrise presented a range of new products that focus on anti-aging solutions and natural ingredients, as well as a cooperation for fairly traded shea butter. SymVital AgeRepair is a 100% pure ginger root extract, which is China compliant. It protects against premature skin aging and restores the skin youthfulness. The natural ingredient also improves skin smoothness, complexion regularity and homogeneity of irritated and stressed skin. The company’s Marine collection is composed of selected and efficient ingredients from the underwater world. The range includes sugar kelp, red and brown algae, amber and pearl, as well as unique cosmetic products such as Fleur de Sel de Camargue an oyster shell extract. And Symrise now offers fairly traded organic certified shea butter from Ghana. When used in personal care products, it provides an improved skin feel. Additionally, Symrise announced the debut of SymTio S, a novel sunscreen ingredient. It works to significantly reduce the potential for the white film effect on the skin if used in sun care products. It also improves the skin feel of sun care formulations. To achieve this, Symrise coats micro fine titanium dioxide with the ester cetearyl nonanoate. SymTio S can be optimally used in combination with organic UV filters in sun protection products and facial moisturizing creams.

Also at in-cosmetics 2014, DuPont presented its multifunctional, renewable and sustainable ingredients as a way to make products safer and better for the environment. The company highlighted key active and functional ingredients, including the soy polymer SoBind Harmony, which offers pigment dispersing properties, rheological aid, product stabilization and emulsification by using soy polymers in skin care, hair care and color cosmetics formulations; osmoprotectants DuPont GenenCare, which offer benefits of skin moisturization, improvement of tight junctions, anti-irritant properties and high water retention in hair; DuPont Glypure glycolic acid, an active ingredient for anti-aging applications in skin that can also play a key role in maintaining a healthy scalp, make hair soft and shiny and actually repair damaged hair; and Zemea propanediol from DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products, which is a natural, 100% biobased ingredient made through fermentation of corn glucose and is used as a preservative-boosting humectant, emollient or natural solvent.

Seatons, the natural oil subsidiary of Croda, launched Chia Seed Oil. Marketed as “a superfood for the skin,” the 100% natural chia seed oil, processed by cold pressing chia seeds, contains high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins. It can be used to hydrate skin, as well as alleviate itchy skin and maintain the skin barrier function. It leaves a light, silky feeling on the skin, making it suitable for a range of products, including hand, face and body care, massage oils and lip balms. It is particularly suited to formulations for dry, mature and sensitive skins.

Evonik created a naturally derived solubilizer for lipophilic ingredients like emollients and natural oils for clear cosmetic formulations. In addition to its solubilizing ability, Tego Solve 61 also has good skin feel, as well as mitigating and moisturizing benefits. The solubilizer is made from 100% renewable raw materials, and it complies with Ecocert standards. It is easy to handle and cold processable, thus allowing easy preparation of mixtures with oils and water. For example, fatty oils such as avocado, olive, jojoba, sunflower and argan oil as well as caprylic/capric triglyceride can be incorporated into clear formulations. It is recommended for shampoos, body, hand and facial washes and gels, makeup removers, emulsions and wet wipes.

For its part at in-cosmetics 2014, Dow Consumer & Industrial Solutions, a business unit of The Dow Chemical Company, unveiled its most recent skin care and skin cleansing innovations. Aculyn Excel Rheology Modifier is a new suspension aid that helps formulators create multifunctional skin cleansing products with benefits such as moisturizing and anti-aging through the suspension of beads and bubbles. It offers the ability to formulate at low pH values for products that are mild to the skin while exhibiting good clarity, and it is able to suspend both beads and bubbles and has broad surfactants versatility, offering choice to brands looking to select a more versatile suspension aid. And EcoSmooth Delight is a novel new sensorial enhancer designed to give a luxury feel to mass market skin care products, offering indulgence and premium feel and the flexibility to formulate silicone-free products. When combined with various silicones and emollients, EcoSmooth Delight helps create formulations that are non-tacky and non-greasy, leaving skin silky and smooth, without compromising on a moisturized skin. These benefits, combined with a cushiony feel, will leave consumers with a lasting impression of luxury and indulgence. In addition, EcoSmooth Delight offers the soft focus that helps create line blurring effects to make skin look younger.

Naturex looked to capture the feminine beauty of nature with its new collection of ingredients, Super Flowers. The company selected flowers with reported efficacy and strong scientific data for its flagship collection of botanical extracts for the beauty industry. The collection explores the phytochemistry behind flowers like Ginger Torch, Blue Lotus, Pomegranate, Blue Malva and Jasmine, as the blossoms reveal a high concentration of antioxidants and free radical scavengers, like polyphenols and flavonoids, as well as glycosides and polysaccharides. The gentle extraction process preserves the integrity of the active molecules and concentrates them to create nectars for the skin that are able to fight glycation and oxidation, and improve skin complexion.

For its part at the 2014 in-cosmetics, Clariant announced enhancement fot its Secret Code of Beauty concept. The company showcased a range of ingredients at the show, including its Plantasens natural emulsifiers, and its Nipaguard Zero blends, which offer preservation without parabens, halogens or formaldehyde donors. Also, with Brazil as the focus country for in-cosmetics 2014, Clariant tapped into its Trend Code to create an Oil for Precious Hair designed to tame, smooth, nourish and bring shine to the hair of Brazilian women, and the company’s new products help pave the way for its introduction of its EcoTain concept for personal care. This addresses one of the five codes in the Secret Code of Beauty by setting a more eco-friendly standard for personal care ingredients.

Soliance also debuted a new ingredient at in-cosmetics 2014. In order to resist dehydration, the red microalga Porphyridium Cruentum has developed an extraordinary defense system. It synthesizes and excretes a marine exopolysaccharide outside its cell wall to reduce water loss. To enable skin to share these benefits and help it recover all of its beauty, Soliance experts in marine biotechnology revealed Porphyridium Cruentum‘s secret and created an active ingredient for 24-hour long-lasting hydration with its ingredient Hydrintense. Hydrintense maintains skin hydration by forming a protective film on the skin’s surface. Replicating its natural function, it increases the water content of the stratum corneum up to 61% and improves the skin microrelief up to 13%.

Mibelle Biochemistry sourced algae that grows on glaciers to create its new anti-aging active. Snow Algae Powder mimics the effects of calorie restriction to improve the longevity of skin cells. Snow algae are single-cell algae that can actively live at a temperature of approximately 0°C. In contrast, most other plants either reduce their metabolic activities or are simply unable to survive at this temperature. Pigment concentration change is one of the strategies developed by the snow algae to enable them to adapt to their extreme habitat. The company produces snow algae powder sustainably in a tailor-made bioreactor. At the cellular level, the active protects and activates two key factors of the calorie restriction pathway—the Klotho longevity gene and the AMP-activated kinase (AMPK) energy sensor—that together lead to improved cellular defenses, oxidative stress resistance, cell detoxification and repair. The results in the skin are the production of collagen starting again and a rejuvenation of the dermal epidermal junction. Consequently, the skin barrier is reinforced while the skin appears fresher and detoxified as age spots are less visible. The active is recommended in rejuvenating and repair formulas, age defense products, youth-protecting and -promoting skin care, and formulas to increase skin’s longevity.

Solvay launched Jaguar Optima, a conditioning solution created to meet market demands for silicone- and sulfate-free, oil-based and oil-free shampoos. The natural, guar-based system looks to address a trend in how consumers choose their shampoos. Most consumers choose their shampoo based on their hair type, which can include normal, slightly damaged, or color treated hair. These choices are based on specific benefits the shampoos can deliver in the main areas of cleansing, shine, smoothness and texture. Many discerning consumers are demanding formulations free of sulfates or silicones that are identified with greasy or oily build up in hair. Jaguar Optima a naturally derived conditioning polymer, and it boosts lightweight conditioning. It also offfers formulation flexibility for the light deposition of silicone and oils, and creates rich, white creamy foam. The eco-friendly conditioning guar delivers performance for formulating hair care solutions suitable for all types of hair, including fine, dry, color-treated and damaged hair. Additionally, Solvay Silica introduced an eco-friendly grade of its Tixosil range of highly dispersible silica products, designed to substitute plastic beads in exfoliating body wash, facial cleanser and other specialised personal care formulations. The product is supplied in micropearl form as a replacement for plastics (PE) beads, which have recently raised environmental concerns. Solvay produces its highly dispersible silicas in a precipitation process essentially using sand as a raw material, which is the most abundant mineral present in the crust of the earth. Tixosil is odorless, chemically inert and considered non-hazardous in manufacture, handling and application.

Seppic created a thickening, stabilizing polymer in powder form for the creation of aqueous gels, cream-gels and emulsions. SepiMax Zen is a polyelectrolyte produced by precipitation polymerization that offers maximum resistance to electrolytes within a wide pH range (pH 2-8). It also offers maximum resistance to electrolytes in all formula types and can maintain the viscosity of the formulas regardless of electrolyte percentage. It acts in synergy with oily alcohol and enables the development of transparent gels with a new feel (even with acidic pH). The polymer is recommended for skin care, hair care, sun care, hygiene products and makeup.

Gattefossé wants to change the industry’s view of natural textures with a new PEG-free emulsifier launch. Emulium Mellifera, composed of a blend of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax and cetyl alcohol, moisturizes the skin and makes the skin more comfortable when added to skin and sun care. It also can be formulated in a wide range of products from sprays to butters to deliver white, luxurious formulations with wide sensorial possibilities.

Also at in-cosmetics 2014, Bluestar Silicones presented Mirasil Serum, a new product for hair care applications. A nourishing product designed for dry and damaged hair, Mirasil Serum works to deliver shine, a silky-soft feel, heat protection, moisturizing and anti-frizz benefits. It can be used both directly or enriched with actives or ingredients such as vegetal oils, vitamins, natural extracts or UV filters.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients announced new ingredients designed in accordance with consumer preferences around the world. The N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer, a new technology demonstrated to restore and improve the look of healthy hair over the course of several wash cycles, lends hydrophobic properties to hair in a way that affords an enduring conditioning effect. The new AquaStyle SH-100 polymer, a highly functional technology that brings hold to virtually any hairstyle, helps consumers create individual hair styles with the benefits of long-lasting hold, high humidity curl resistance and style memory delivered from crystal clear formulations. For skin care applications, Ashland introduced Neomatrix biofunctional, a novel pentapeptide inspired by stratifin signaling proteins, an epidermal biomessenger that functions on an intercellular basis to support skin’s own dermal remodeling and repair functions. And the new SurfaThix N polymer is an all-in-one solution with applications in shampoo and body wash formulations, lending clarity, performance and elegance to surfactant-functional systems.

Air Products introduced its new OxyForce cellular active at in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Germany. OxyForce cellular active is a high-performance energizing solution formulated to enhance the supply of molecular oxygen to skin cells. OxyForce cellular active can promote the supply of oxygen to upper layer skin cells to reduce wrinkle depth while enhancing skin smoothness and supporting natural collagen production.

Fueled by growing consumer concern over the effects of UV radiation on the skin, at in-cosmetics 2014 the personal care business of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry launched Dermacryl E for sunscreen emulsions and Dermacryl 2.0 for ethanol-based sunscreens. Dermacryl E is a waterproofing, film-forming polymer that provides SPF performance and feel on skin with reduced tackiness in emulsion sun care products. It also provides superior water resistance. And Dermacryl 2.0 is a waterproofing film-former designed to enable product developers to address the growing challenges presented in formulating ethanol-based sun protection products. Additionally, the company’s new Balance RCF ingredients is an alkali swellable acrylic polymer that is designed to make crystal-clear hair gels. This unique polymer functions as both a fixative and a rheology modifier, allowing developers to replace two ingredients with one. And the new Armocare VGH-70 and Arquad PC SV-60 ingredients are naturally based, multifunctional, versatile conditioning agents. Their cationic character and unique structures make them substantive to both hair and skin while being compatible with a wide range of ingredients, including nonionic, cationic and mild anionic surfactants and polymers. They can be used in a wide range of personal care applications to provide a number of benefits, including conditioning, static reduction, promoting the deposition of silicones, emulsifying/stabilizing, providing unique texture and enhancing sensory properties.

Silab developed Unflamagyl, an anti-aging active ingredient that regulates communication between senescent cells and their environment. Rich in yeast biopeptides, this new ingredient limits proinflammatory exchanges between the epidermis and dermis, and preserves the skin tissue’s functionality; and promotes dermal matrix restructuration to recover skin tone and elasticity. Thanks to its targeted action, Unflamagyl reduces fine lines and wrinkles, thus allowing skin to look younger. Used to restore tone and elasticity and offer smoother skin relief, it is recommended for all anti-aging skin care products.