This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

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I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

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My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

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Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

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When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

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When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

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I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

The *used (but verified)* lightening connector I ordered from iFixit was missing three things:

- Adhesive on the back of the screen connector

- Tiny foam square on the back of the antenna connector

- Rubber mic-cover

The first two can be carefully cannibalized from the broken one, and the third must be carefully removed from the broken one and refitted onto the new one. Take great care in doing this! It's a bummer iFixit doesn't provide any instructions for these steps!

When I did this just last night, I compared the bad lightning connector setup with the new one from iFixit, and noticed that the new one doesn't have the small metal bracket that holds the connector for the home button/fingerprint scanner in place. This bracket is right under that connector and is what the metal cover in step 8 connects to. These instructions are so detailed everywhere else, that I was surprised that this wasn't mentioned. So be careful to remove the bracket from the old connector, and put it back in the phone during reassembly. I did not need the adhesive to hold the wires, because the little cover you remove in step 8 will hold things in place.

I also noticed the missing tape on the antenna wire, and the missing mic cover, and transferred them to the new connector as well.

The guide is absolutely perfect right up to this point. But, when it comes time to put the new part in, it completely falls apart. There are 3 components that must be switched over from your existing Lightning Connector assembly. THERE IS NO MENTION WHATSOEVER of this at all. Worse yet, I tried to submit an additional step detailing exactly what you need to swap over and where the component go, compete with closeup photos, but it was denied without explanation. I really think iFixit dropped the ball big time on this one. I'm an auto technician by trade so this setback was not an issue for me, but I have a feeling many customers will be completely confused when they reach the end of this guide as it's written.

In any case, the 3 components you need to swap over are:

- A thin stip that goes along the left and top edges of the headphone jack.

- The bracket that holds the connector into which the Touch ID cable plugs.

Notes on the 3 parts from the original you need to remove and reuse for the replacement:

1) The rubber mic cover pulls off easily. Expose the adhesive on the bottom of the new mic, and slide it into the slit in the rubber cover. To reassemble, this bends 90-deg to align the holes in the rubber cover w/the small pegs on the body of the phone.

2) The "home button bracket" : remove it & pay attention to orientation & how the home button connector bends back on itself. The original bracket has some adhesive/foam to keep the connector in place. The replacement does not have this, so there's no easy way to set the button connector for reassembly - it kind of flails around.

3) I missed the comments about the headphone jack metal grounding strip until after I'd already closed up my phone. My standard iPhone headphones still work fine w/o it, but if you leave it out you could presumably wind up w/buzzing or static.

While the washer looked exactly as pictured here, my iPhone 5s had an entirely different type of bracket which encased the whole headphone jack. Also missing from this guide is the fact that you have to reuse the bracket where the home button connector is glued to, at least my replacement connector platine didn't come with one. So there's a few things to canibalize from the broken part:

The Bracket, the Washer, the home button bracket, and very important: the rubber casing of the microphone (left of the lightning connector)!

Works well all they way until the end. The instructions for installing the replacement lightning assembly are worthless, because the new assembly looks different and requires at least one, but probably really two, additional parts (luckily I had already ordered these in anticipation). You need to order for sure order the iPhone 5s Headphone Jack Interconnect cable (item 124027-1) and very likely the iPhone 5s Microphone Gasket (item 124047-1), because the new 5s Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black (item 124010-1) doesnt' have the interconnect cable (and the old assembly had this molded in, so it is not removable) and the microphone has glue on the back of the flex cable, so it is likely not easily removable from the old microphone gasket (I didn't even try) and it is better to insert it in a new one. Also, as mentioned by others, several other parts (tape and a metal clip assembly) have to be recovered from the old assembly and reused.

Non of this is mentioned (or photographed) in any of the instructions and it takes some review of the old assembly on how to make the new one to look the same. Just a note, the assembly of the Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black assembly with the Headphone Jack Interconnect Cable, will look different from the original assembly, but is functionally the same (and you can tell). This was very frustrating, but the other parts of the instructions are very very good!

I got through this successfully and it solved my problem (phone wouldn't charge/iTunes wouldn't recognize it when plugged in). With the new part it works perfectly.

Two cautions: I bought a new lightning connector assembly and I had to transfer two items from the old assembly that were not mentioned in the steps.

(1) There is a small black rubber "boot" which you can see in the step 38 photo. (on the very bottom between the lightning port and the headphone jack) Pull this off and put it in the same place on your new lightning connector assembly. It attaches to a fitting on the bottom wall of the aluminum case.

(2) There is a bracket that holds the home button connector socket in place. This is the socket that is exposed when you disconnect the home button cable in step 9. When you remove the old lightning connector assembly, this bracket needs to be transferred to the new assembly. It's attached by a small piece of double sided tape that you can salvage/reuse if you're careful!

Right well that wasn't too much fun. In my case the adhesive connecting the lcd/digitiser and the lcd shield/bracket had gone making opening the device quite difficult. The screen and digitizer were coming up with the suction cup but the lcd shield and the metal bracket with all the clips stayed firmly secured to the main case. My solution was to drive a flat metal prying tool on the battery side between the metal bracket and the inside wall of the main casing. Not for the faint of heart but I got there in the end.

No complaints with the rest of the repair and the iFixit replacement lightning assembly works flawlessly (my lighting port and headphone jack had become loose fitting causing headphones to easily pop out and making charging very difficult).

When all is re-assembled remember to do a hard reset to get touch ID working again as only the home button function works immediately after reassembly (security feature?). Thanks a million iFixit, this brick will live to see another year hopefully :)

I've carried out the repair and everything went fine, however I can't get the screen on the phone anymore. There seems to be something stoping it closing around where the port actually is, any ideas what this is

Just finished this project and it took me about 1.5 to 2 hours from start to finish. Here are a few things to lookout for.

1. the antenna connecting node on your new lighting blot assembly is pretty low quality as mine popped off at some point and was gone forever. I now only have half the phones antenna in use... this makes me sad.

2. You will need to use the old, original rubber housing for your microphone as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

3. You will need to use the original "home button to lighting blot assembly" housing as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

That being said, this was the absolutely first time I have ever opened any electronic device ever and I still have a somewhat working iphone aside form the antenna issue. If I can do this, anyone who knows how to take their time and read can do this no problem.

After 6 hours of futzing around, it is done. And I can charge my phone again... But I just want to point out that an operation that literally takes out almost every component in the phone, then puts it all back in again is more than "moderate difficulty". It's difficult. There doesn't seem to be much more out there that's worse than this procedure, as far as invasiveness is concerned.

Got caught up with things not fitting properly while putting back together. Just remember: don't force anything. Just keep looking to see what's caught or if you've got it slightly improperly positioned.

Thank you to iFixit for the guide and the replacement part! Despite a few little missing details (now specified in the Step comments), the guide was very useful, took me like 2 hours.

To explain the situation a bit, my iPhone 5S got suddenly in Searching mode. I only realized it the morning after when I got to work. I didn't drop my phone overnight or anything. Only thing in mind, I plugged it on my charger... The day after, WiFi and everything else was working fine. When I took the SIM card out... The phone stayed in Searching mode.

Like any other phone, it got drop a few times and had a few bruises. Although, that sudden malfunction was surprising and frustrating.

I looked online and found a few sites mentioning that for an antenna issue, change the lightning port or DFU the phone (which had a risk of bricking the phone if the software wasn't the issue...)

Changed the connector, reinstalled everything and I am happy to say that IT WORKS!!

need help please! i have replaced my lightning connector and i have two problems, one is that my earpods doesn´t work fine, just the right one does, and seems to be a problem with the lightning, shows charging but does not charge at all, and it seems to be a problem with the antenna too, please help... would it be nice if u modify the guide... the logic board is not necesary to remove...

I was able to follow the video and lay out my parts in a magnetic parts tray and a grid I created for each step. I noted on the paper exactly how many screws/parts were used in that step. Once I dropped the screw on the grid in the parts tray, they stayed there until reassembly. It helped me out huge!

One issue I have is upon reassembly, my speaker is not working. I only get vibrate. So I had to assume that since there is no ribbon to the speaker it had to be making contact with those two contact points. I took it apart once again, and tried to re apply the charging port ribbon so that the gold contacts were exposed to the speaker module in the correct position. Any tips or tricks are appreciated.

I did have one washer after all was replaced . it was not perfectly round, but rather triangular shaped. It may have been in the spot where everyone loses the bracket/washer. I will pull it apart again tonight to see.

so I replaced both the battery and the lightning cable in mine, and once I completed the reassembly process completely, the phone still will not charge or boot up.

It did not boot up or charge before hand, so I thought it was either the battery or the lightning port. the battery got pretty beat up during disassembly, so I ordered a new one along with a new port. the port failed a test with another battery.

I have gone back multiple times to make sure the cables are connected correctly and everything, so does anyone have any idea as to what the issue is or could be?

I've done it successfuly and it was my first time so it is possible even for beginners. I've even change the battery in the same time. It is not easy but you need time, self control and proper tools (mandatory).... But be carefull, the tutoriel hepls you to the step to change to part. But you will have to get some parts of the old lightning connector and put on the new one, so be very observative and don't throw too quickly the old part. Don't be afraid to compare them... But now i have made a second life to my lovely 5s and i'm really Happy... Thanks to this marvelous website which is really Good. I've bought all parts and tools in ifixit site and it was quick and professionnal. thanks to Ifixit. I want to repare everything now :-)

It's not necessary to detach the screen—just recommended in order to decrease the chance of accidental damage to the display ribbon cables. If you're careful, you can certainly open it up, disconnect the battery, and then skip straight to the speaker and Lightning connector steps.

worked a treat, was just very patient and careful when dis-assembling. Some bits did not come apart at first attempt. 'carefully wend back and redid steps, it worked. Taped sheets of paper to work area and labelled each part of the phone on the sheets as I went along also marked each step as per steps/screenshots on tutorial.

Just worked backwards on my numbered steps from my sheets. Patience is the key to getting this right first time.

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Speak out for your right to repair.

New York,

New Yorkers stand up for what they believe in. And we're asking you to
stand up for repair.

This year, New York could be the first state in the nation to pass the Fair Repair Act,
A8192 and
S618.
We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic
equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. We have a
chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that
keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers.

It’s not going to be easy. Manufacturers are standing in the
way. When your stuff breaks, they want to be the only people allowed to fix it.
So far, they’ve managed to stop Fair Repair legislation before your
representatives get a chance to vote on it. We’ve got to be louder than their
lobbyists.

The Fair Repair Act, known as
A8192 and
S618,
requires manufacturers to provide owners
and independent repair businesses with fair access to service information,
security updates, and replacement parts. Tell your state representative to
support S618. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for your right to repair.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair.

Massachusetts,

The people of Massachusetts have always stood up for their
right to repair. In 2012, voters passed a law that ensured
residents' right to repair their car wherever they wanted.
Now, it's time to do the same for electronics and other equipment.

With the Digital Right to Repair Act,
H.143
and S.96,
we have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronics—like
smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. The Digital Right to
Repair Act requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
information businesses with fair access to service information, security
updates, and replacement parts.

But we need your help. Big manufacturers don't want this
bill passed. And they're working hard to defeat it.

If you think you have a right to repair your products, find out who
represents you in the Massachusetts legislature. Tell them repair is good
for the environment, good for consumers, and good for business. Tell
them you support the Digital Right to Repair Act, S.96 and H.143.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair.

Nebraska,

This year, the people of Nebraska have a chance to guarantee
their right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment,
digital equipment, and even cell phones.

It’s yours. You own it. You shouldn’t have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. The Fair Repair Act, or LB 67,
is simple. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent
repair businesses with fair access to service information and replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get back on with your
life.

But manufacturers don’t like that idea. When
your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the
only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want
for parts and service.

It’s time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair jobs—the
corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out. Find
out who represents you in the Nebraska state legislature. Tell them you support
the bipartisan Fair Repair Act, LB 67. Tell them that you believe repair
should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for the right to repair
in Nebraska.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Dear Minnesotans,

Minnesota has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass
"Fair Repair" legislation. SF 15, or the Fair Repair bill, guarantees our
right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones
and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent
repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you
have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When
your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the
only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Minnesota's legislatures. Tell them that
you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a
bipartisan Fair Repair bill, SF 15. Tell them repair is good for the
environment, good for consumers, and good for businesses.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Dear Kansans,

Kansas has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass
"Fair Repair" legislation. HB 2122, or the Fair Repair Act, guarantees our
right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones
and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent
repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you
have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When
your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the
only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Kansas' legislature. Tell them that
you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a
bipartisan bill. Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Dear Wyomingites,

Wyoming has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass
"Fair Repair" legislation. HB 199, or the Fair Repair Act, guarantees our
right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones
and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent
repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you
have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When
your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the
only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Wyoming's legislature. Tell them that
you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a
bipartisan bill. Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Dear Washingtonians,

Washington has a chance to become the first state in the nation to pass
"Fair Repair" legislation. The Fair Repair Act guarantees our
right to repair digital equipment like computers, refrigerators, cell phones
and tractors. It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent
repair shops with access to repair information and replacement parts—so you
have the resources you need to fix things quickly and affordably.

But we need your help. Manufacturers don’t want a Fair Repair bill. When
your tractor breaks or your cell phone stops working, they want to be the
only people who can fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want.

Find out who represents you in Washington's legislature. Tell them that
you want the right to repair your purchases. Tell them you support a
bipartisan bill. Tell them repair is good for farmers, good for consumers, and good for businesses.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Tennessee,

This year, the people of Tennessee have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. The Fair Repair Act is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out.
Find out who represents you in the Tennessee General Assembly. Tell
them you support the Fair Repair Act, SB 888 in the Senate
and HB 1382 in the
House. Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Tennessee.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Illinois,

This year, the people of Illinois have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. The Digital Fair Repair Act is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the Illinois General Assembly. Tell
them you support the Digital Fair Repair Act, HB3030.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Illinois.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Iowa,

This year, the people of Iowa have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. Iowa's Right to Repair Act, HF556, is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the Iowa legislature. Tell
them you support the Right to Repair Act, HF556.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Iowa.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

North Carolina,

This year, the people of North Carolina have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. North Carolina's Fair Repair Act, H. 663, is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the North Carolina legislature. Tell
them you support the Fair Repair Act, H. 663.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in North Carolina.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

Missouri,

This year, the people of Missouri have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. Missouri's Fair Repair Act, HB1178, is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the Missouri legislature. Tell
them you support the Fair Repair Act, HB1178.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in Missouri.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

New Hampshire,

This year, the people of New Hampshire have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. New Hampshire's upcoming Right to Repair Act is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the New Hampshire legislature. Tell
them you support the Right to Repair Act.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in New Hampshire.

It's time to speak out for your right to repair

New Jersey,

This year, the people of New Jersey have a chance to guarantee their
right to repair their equipment—like tractors, farm equipment, digital
equipment, and even cell phones.

It's yours. You own it. You shouldn't have to beg the manufacturer
for permission to fix it when it breaks. New Jersey's upcoming Fair Repair Act, A4934 is simple.
It requires manufacturers to provide owners and independent repair
businesses with fair access to service information and affordable replacement
parts. So you can fix the stuff you own quickly—and get on with your life.

But manufacturers like John Deere and Apple don't like that idea. When your tractor breaks or
your cell phone stops working, they want to be the only people who can
fix it. And they get to set whatever prices they want for parts and
service.

It's time to fight for your right to repair and defend local repair
jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed
out. Find out who represents you in the New Jersey legislature. Tell
them you support the Fair Repair Act, A4934.
Tell them that you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and
accessible. Stand up for the right to repair in New Jersey.