snapper

Grilling a whole fish doesn’t have to be daunting, especially if you use this turning method to minimize the risk of tearing the skin. Lay the fish horizontally across the grill grate with the top fins toward you and cook. When it's time to turn, wedge two metal spatulas under the fish—one near the tail and the other at the head—then quickly and confidently roll it away from you onto its other side in one fluid motion.

You don't need a culinary school degree to cook fish with skin as crunchy as a potato chip. Grab your nonstick skillet, start the fish skin side down, and slowly raise the heat. The skin will lie flat, gradually rendering fat like a strip of bacon, while the flesh gently cooks through. You can do this. Anyone can do this.

Grunts are a fish you'll probably never see on a menu and will most definitely never see at a fish market, especially on the West Coast. But as Charlie knows, they inhabit every dock, marina, pier, reef, and any other underwater structure in southern Florida. Because they are considered vastly inferior in taste to their snapper relatives, they're targeted for quick and easy meals by the fishermen in the Florida keys, where this breakfast dish originates. Considering grunt is largely unavailable (and truthfully, Charlie says, isn't very good), here we substitute small fillets of snapper or rockfish. This is an incredible dish—full or rich and spicy flavors, with a wild array of textures, from the pillow of creamy grits to searing fish to the crisp bacon. The classic accompaniment to grits and grunts is cheap beer, but coffee works, too.

Chef Kris Wessel of Florida Cookery in Miami Beach, Florida, shared this recipe as part of a [Palm Tree Christmas menu](http://origin.stag.epicurious.com/articlesguides/holidays/christmas/kris-wessel-florida-christmas) he created exclusively for Epicurious. Look for firm fish with bright eyes and red gills, Wessel says. It should smell sweet, not fishy. If you prefer to grill the snapper, see the Cooks' note for cooking times.

This recipe calls for a whole gutted fish. You can also substitute 8 (7-ounce) fish fillets, if preferred. Just be sure to reduce the cooking time to about 20 minutes.
This recipe is part of the [Epicurious Online Cooking School](http://cookingschool.epicurious.com/), in partnership with the Culinary Institute of America. To watch it being made, and to learn how to make other Mexican classics, check out the videos.