Proper P/S and A/C removal?

Can anyone provide the steps to remove the P/S and A/C and if anything needs to be changed after removing these? Looking for tech articles or people with experience doing this. thanks engine is a B18b going into a 92 Si hatch. i'm thinking about keeping the P/S but definitely removing the A/C.

uh...just unbolt everything. Take the a/c hoses off where they bolt together by the passenger side shock tower, and leave the 2 hoses that come from inside the car (in case you ever want to put a/c back in). Remove the condenser, compressor (be sure to leave the compressor bracket in, it mounts to the chassy and sturdies the motor), dryer (silver tube behind driver side headlight), and all the other hoses. If you do want to remove the in-dash stuff, take out your glovebox and take all the a/c stuff from there.

As far as power steering goes, remove the pump, pump mount, reservoir, and all the hoses. There's 2 hoses coming out of the steering rack, cut these so they each come about 5 inches out of the steering rack, then loop them together with a section of rubber hose.

LOL, thanks for the help its just right now i dont have the complete parts for A/C and probly will never use it as i dont right now. I did also find a good article on HondaTech about looping those two lines you mentioned and also tee in a little resevoir to ease the fluid more. I just may do that

you also should have the freon drained by a professional if its R12, it damamges the ozone... but if you "accidently" chop a line, make sure not to breath that shit in, and work in well ventilated areas

if you remove power steering you are gonna wanna get a manual rack, you'll know what i mean if you ever drove a power steering vehicle that the power steering wasn;t working in

you also should have the freon drained by a professional if its R12, it damamges the ozone... but if you "accidently" chop a line, make sure not to breath that shit in, and work in well ventilated areas

if you remove power steering you are gonna wanna get a manual rack, you'll know what i mean if you ever drove a power steering vehicle that the power steering wasn;t working in

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You don't need to get shorter belts- all the accessories are on separate pulleys/belts. Just remove the belts you don't need.

On the 92, the refrigerant should be R134a, but you still shouldn't dump it on your own. If you can, have it evacuated by someone with proper recovery equipment.

You don't have to get a manual rack if you remove the power steering. All you really need to do is run the two power steering fluid lines from the rack into a vented catch can. That way you don't build up pressure in the steering rack like you would with a sealed setup, and you can keep the faster ratio power rack in place. It saves you some labor too.

Originally posted by reckedracing@Nov 4 2004, 03:36 PMand i dunno about the B18 belts, thought the alternator was on the same belt as the PS or AC

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Both the D and B have the alternator, power steering pump and AC compressor on separate belts.

and i dunno about civics power racks, but any other car i've dealt with was a pain in the balls to try and steer without the PS working properly...
are civics diffrent somehow?

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No. If you leave everything in the power steering system hooked up and just toss the belt, you'll be working against all the fluid trying to move through a non-moving pump. If you disconnect the lines and plumb them into a breather tank so that there's no pressure buildup and the fluid can move freely from side to side in the steering rack, it's much easier to steer the car. Of course the steering wheel will be hard to turn if the pump isn't running- but remove the pump and let the fluid flow where it wants to go and it feels more like a manual rack.

Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 4 2004, 12:42 PMNo. If you leave everything in the power steering system hooked up and just toss the belt, you'll be working against all the fluid trying to move through a non-moving pump. If you disconnect the lines and plumb them into a breather tank so that there's no pressure buildup and the fluid can move freely from side to side in the steering rack, it's much easier to steer the car. Of course the steering wheel will be hard to turn if the pump isn't running- but remove the pump and let the fluid flow where it wants to go and it feels more like a manual rack.

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this is exactly waht i did with my power steering. i have a resivior that allows fluid to move in and out of it, 1 tube running from the bottom of the resivoir then T's off to the 2 lines for the rack. i keep fluid up to just entering the resivoir. the effort involved is exactly the same as my old DX that came with a manual rack. the benifit with the power steering rack is the shorter ratio, less turns lock to lock.

so what kind of resevoirs are you guys talking about? I have the idea but are there certain containers that are good for this already made? I found a good picture on another site but it didnt say what container it was. So basically its as easy as running the two lines of the power steering together but in the middle tee off into a container to let the fluid run freely.

Yeah, basically. I would actually run both lines straight into the catch can, but that's me. A T junction that dumps into a catch can will work just as well. Search for "catch can" online and look for one that has a breather on top to vent pressure to the outside. Greddy makes one that's not too expensive. I use an Endyn "modified" Moroso can on the back of my block to relieve crankcase pressure- it will work great on a power steering rack too.

You would just want the filter on top instead of a feed tube. By the way, buying just the catch can straight from Moroso would probably suit your power steering delete better rather than buying Endyn's entire engine crank vent kit. It would definitely be cheaper...