What, no pork or shrimp on a Mexican menu? The Isaac who runs this casa, Isaac Nava, may be from Guerrero, but he's also Jewish. He closes up shop from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday so he can keep the Sabbath. He also cooks his mother's recipes—in fact, he brought her from Mexico to help out—and the fine mole poblano comes from his sister-in-law. Start with vegetarian picaditas estilo Huitzuco—masa boats layered with red or green salsa, sour cream, onion, and fresco cheese. If you're feeling traditional, order the chiles rellenos or classic tampiqueña—broiled skirt steak served with an enchilada. Isaac's casa is the new darling of the North Shore.

WHAT'S A MUSHROOM LIKE YOU DOING IN A FONDUE LIKE THIS? Up the ante on queso fundido with a version that adds portobellos to a pot of bubbling white cheese and poblano strips to be eaten with tortillas.

Chef/owner Nadia Tilkian's comfortable art nouveau bistro is named after her grandmother, and it's obvious the lady would have approved. Maijean brings traditional French and slightly eclectic cooking to a lovely suburb, and locals have welcomed it with open arms and eager bellies. Instant gratification arrives with savory rabbit and chicken liver pâtés alongside pork rillettes, and with citrus-crusted seared scallops on fennel-citrus broth. Entrées can be as classic as a creamy blanquette of veal or as creative as spice-rubbed duck breast with smoked shallot sauce. And that peanut butter bombe will bring out the inner Reese's-loving child in you.

SHOWSTOPPER You don't see coq au vin too much these days, but Maijean's is authentic, picture-perfect, and delicious.

GRIPE When asked if there was a cocktail list, the waiter said no. An hour later the dessert menu arrived bound with a two-page list of martinis and cocktails.

—D. R. W.

Coconut Soufflé

OLD TOWN BRASSERIEFRENCH 1209 North Wells Street; 312-943-3000 [$$$]

If you enter this handsomely outfitted restaurant expecting unfussy brasserie fare, you'll be disappointed. That's because you are about to be regaled with near-haute creations by star chef Roland Liccioni (Le Français, Les Nomades). Grin and bear it. Liccioni is a master of terrines, like his appetizer house-smoked salmon wrapped around king crab and seared salmon with dill sauce. His Vietnamese roots show up in lobster ravioli with poached shrimp and lightly pickled cucumber salad with a Vietnamese-spiced foam. Sautéed loup de mer delights on wild rice sauce blanquette, and a duo of roasted rack of lamb and Kobe beef fillet with a spicy sauce merguez and ratatouille finished with marinated shallots and pine nuts is stellar.

Are the chemistry and physics experiments at Moto too precious for you? Then try its sibling Otom (clever name, pronounced "autumn") a few doors down, where the former Moto sous-chef Daryl Nash uses a bit of molecular gastronomy sensibility to good effect with comfort food. It's a cool space—bright stripes, exposed brick, and purse hooks on the tables. But the menu is equally cool, with standouts like a cast-iron pot of macaroni and cheese with truffled white Cheddar and double-smoked bacon or a cubed salmon seviche on won ton chips with citrus bubbles. Move on to seared quail with sesame puffs and maple-soy glaze. Not exactly comfort food, but who cares?

SHOWSTOPPER A "banana split" of puréed banana squares coated with chocolate and impaled on three sticks, each topped with roasted pineapple, house-made maraschino cherries, or peanut praline