Hey I stopped by Greg's shop and saw your build.
Pretty cool stuff.
The one thing that I mentioned to Greg was look at buying prothene motor inserts. I used these on my 4.0
prothane 1-504-bl about $50
Pictures here http://www.nagca.com/forum/showpost....&postcount=104
Yours were looking pretty shot.
Even if they are a little large Greg can chuck them in the lathe and turn them down.

This winter I might be looking to do a full rebuild on the engine to cure my burning issue. Driving city and freeway its not noticeable, but wheeling under heavy load it puffs like a chimney. So during that time I'll look at upgrading those mounts.

There are advantages and disadvantages to each choice. If it were a semi daily driver and seeing a ton of road miles, I may have chosen johnny joints or something similar. Johnny joints are better on the road due to to rubber/urethane pockets they have supporting the ball part of the joint. But since this will be a mostly trail rig, with fordyce and Rubicon within an hour of my house, I wanted heims for the amount of articulation they offer. Also with johhny joints, its only a 9/16 bolt. I've heard very little problems with such a small bolt, but with a relatively heavy rig, I'm running 3/4" bolts on the lowers and 5/8" bolt uppers.

The only problem I see in the future is the 3/4" heim uppers and track bar. If I were to do it again, I would have gone 7/8" instead.

Had to put a 5 degree bend in the track bar to clear the oil pan. Clearances are tight, but they work! Upper control arm mount goes right by the motor mount at full bump. And the lower control arms lay flat on the frame rails.

Nice catches guys! very slight bend in the UCA to avoid the floorboards, and very slight bends in the track bar and drag link to avoid the oil pan. The lower control arms juuust start to touch the frame rails when everything else in the suspension has around 1/2"-3/4" left to go. That will be a nice extra security to keep bad things from happening even in the event of a worst case scenario. I completely removed the factory track bar mount, put some frame plating there to reinforce the new bracket.

42" long drag link and track bar, at the same exact angle. Should drive pretty dang nice!

*edit* Oops, didn't see that Marc posted most of the info in the bottom of his recent picture post, my bad!

Lowers are 36" long, upper is 34" long. I'll get the revised 3 link calculator design to ya, ended up pretty dang close just some minor changes for clearance issues.

To add to the link lengths, you have a 42" long drag link and a 42" long track bar. Better yet they are at the same angle as each other, only 10ish degrees off horizontal. This axle is going to move and steer like a dream through the full range of motion!