p.s;the only problem is that they did stop making it as far as I am told...as almost all big oil manufactures are going to make only two or three engine oils...and they will stop making oils just for diesels or petrol cars :-(((

So what I am doing now is adding Bardahl Long Life 6 in 1...to the engine oil...or for less tuned engines you can use just their Turbo Protect oil additive.

Depends on what do you mean by the best - oil longevity? cleaning property? low friction? You can't have it all.

For high performance and the best lubrication under any circumstance I would stick with ester based synthetic rather than hydrocracked synthetic ones. Personally I'm using the Miller Oils CFS 10W-50 in my JTD. But this would be probably a waste of money on unmodded engine.

Whats that like on a cold start?
I can see the 50 as hot engine protection , but is the 10 a little thick on a cold start whats the noise difference like from a 5w40
I use a 0w40 as most of my comute to work is cool engine on a fairly short journey at 8 miles.
No cats or egr to worry about and still change oil at 6000 miles or less.

"Depends on what do you mean by the best - oil longevity? cleaning property? low friction? You can't have it all.

For high performance and the best lubrication under any circumstance I would stick with ester based synthetic rather than hydrocracked synthetic ones. Personally I'm using the Miller Oils CFS 10W-50 in my JTD. But this would be probably a waste of money on unmodded engine. "

Whats that like on a cold start?
I can see the 50 as hot engine protection , but is the 10 a little thick on a cold start whats the noise difference like from a 5w40
I use a 0w40 as most of my comute to work is cool engine on a fairly short journey at 8 miles.
No cats or egr to worry about and still change oil at 6000 miles or less.

Never had a problem with it. But have to mention I'm preheating the engine during winter. It's also quieter with the 10W-50.

My car was running on 5W-40 most of its life, but I think the camshaft suffered that.

If you would go for Millers, I suggest you their 10w-40 first. Mine engine is nearly ten years old and has over 200tkm on clock so it's probably worn more than yours. But definitely I wouldn't take anything lower than 10W at your climate.

(Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 is what I had used before - no suprise the camshaft worn )

That oil test comes up on so many forums, but there are a couple of major issues with it. First, look at the pictures, it's massively out of date with the oils that they are testing (many of them are no longer available or have been updated a lot since the test) and second, the Falex test they use does not relate to what happens in an engine, so it's a pointless comparison. The Falex text doesn't take into account heat, combustion byproducts etc. They are comparing some very different oils as well, there are different viscosities 0w-40, some 5w-40, others 5w-30, 10w-40, 15w-50 etc, different basestock types and they meet different specifications. It really is one of the most pointless tests you could put together for anything.

Im i doing any harm with mobil 1 0w40 changed at 6000miles
I tend to buy a couple of tubs from you guys when on offer.
Its a bit of a jump in price to ester synthetics
Regarding those wear tests, ive seen plenty of videos showing magic additives that dramtically reduce load and wear on those tests im guessing most are just an ep additive, im sure the big oil manufacturers such as mobil and others could make an oil that would outstand in that test, so the fact they dont seems to suggest the oil doesnt need to.
Also from the past plenty of million mile test stripdowns and measure parts against oe spec with most stuff still in as new tollerance.
Where does mobil stack next to ester considering short drain interval so hopefully wouldnt shear down too much and hopefully soot and fuel deg low at 6000miles.
For example say millers nano drive at £70+ id be ditching 1yr 6000miles
Everything built to cost but is it twice as good?

Mobil 0w-40 is a good oil. It's a PAO base, so the next step down from the ester blends, but there isn't that much price difference, only a fiver or so between the Mobil and Pro S/Millers CFS and we quite often have them on offer for about £40.

Some of the additive videos are brilliant. There's one where an engine has concrete poured over the top of it and it still keeps running. It's not often that happens when you're driving about, but as the concrete doesn't go into the engine, I don't see the relevance anyway. I think the models in bikinis stood next to the engine were supposed to distract you from the nonsense.

Don't use additives, even what may seem the most harmless thing is messing with the chemistry of the oil. Here's a bit more information about additives.

That's brilliant, I haven't seen that one before. Looking at some of the test samples they had there, I think they may have seen the oil test that was linked to earlier as most of the ones they had were in the test, except Head and Shoulders. I should probably spend some time having a look at oil videos, but 90% of the ones I've seen are complete nonsense and many of the others are flawed in some way. That is one of the few that is spot on.

One thing I should have mentioned about the Millers Nanodrive in my last post was the possible mpg benefit. As it works by increasing efficiency, as well as a potential power increase, there is a possible mpg increase. One guy with an Integra DC2 put on the DC2 forum last week that he used a pretty good 5w-40 before the Nanodrive and got 33mpg. When he changed to the Nanodrive, he got 35.5mpg, but hasn't been using it long so wants to get a better average. I told Millers and they have said a few people have reported the same. So yes, it may cost more than the other top oils, but over a service interval, it may pay for the difference itself.

Out of interest whats the valvolene vr1 5w50 as its listed in competition section but not ester( and quite a bit cheaper than the ester 5w50)
How do competition oils last with milage or are they designed for short periods only as expected in motorsport like a couple of days rallying etc.
And also ive always been supprised how vauxhall spec a 5w30 for virtually the same engine(1.9 16v) but alfa and fiat is 5w40
Will they suffer eventually with more wear from a thinner oil, which after time could be more like a 20 weight.
Especially the turbocharger?
And lastly do you ever stock mobil 5w50(rally)came to you on google but not stocked .

Out of interest whats the valvolene vr1 5w50 as its listed in competition section but not ester( and quite a bit cheaper than the ester 5w50)
How do competition oils last with milage or are they designed for short periods only as expected in motorsport like a couple of days rallying etc.
And also ive always been supprised how vauxhall spec a 5w30 for virtually the same engine(1.9 16v) but alfa and fiat is 5w40
Will they suffer eventually with more wear from a thinner oil, which after time could be more like a 20 weight.
Especially the turbocharger?
And lastly do you ever stock mobil 5w50(rally)came to you on google but not stocked .

Hi

The VR1 is alright, but it's a step down from the ester based oils. There are very few proper competition oils that are for track only, but there are plenty that are also for road use and they are generally good for 10k of road use.

Vauxhall recommending 5w-30 and Alfa /Fiat saying 5w-40 is fairly normal for similar engines. If you look at the BMW and Merc range, they spec 0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40 and 5w-40 for all of their cars, so one garage could say 0w-30 and the next one 5w-40 for the same car. Using a thinner oil could lead to more wear, depending on the engine and how tuned it is. I wouldn't say the 5w-30 is too thin for a standard Vauxhall, but if it's tuned, a 5w-40 is likely to be a better choice, or at least a better quality 5w-30 than the standard stuff.

Mobil discontinued the 5w-50 and 15w-50 for cars. Annoying as they were 2 of their most popular and useful oils. They 'replaced' those oils with a 10w-60 which is useless for the vast majority of cars on the market. Other than some Alfas, BMWs, Ferraris and Astons there is very little that needs a 10w-60, but a lot of modified/performance things that would happily use a 50.