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Remove the differential housing cover (4033) and drain the lubricant. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.

Remove the differential pinion shaft (4211).

Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt (4241).

Remove the differential pinion shaft.

CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove. Remove the U-washer (4N237).

Push the axle shafts (4234) inboard.

Remove the U-washer.

CAUTION: Damage to the rear brake anti-lock sensor (2C190) may occur if it is not removed before the axle shaft. Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .

CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal. Remove the axle shaft.

you must remove brakes, then remove axle nut, then remove upper control arm and finally tie rod stabilizer, remove axle from car then bearing can be accessed. this is a difficult job that requires special tools so be careful

yes it is one big nut, however it looks like 4 individual nuts due to the fact that they are a thinly stacked layer or thin nuts held together by what you called the tab washer............only way to replace is to get a new one from ford........

The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)

Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)

Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)

The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.

Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.

The hub must be pressed out of the bearing The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.

The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle. The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.

I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00

I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.

24" breaker bar $20 36mm hub socket $17 Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm. A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)

You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.

Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750. This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution
positively .thank you for using fixya

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Related Questions:

Jeff is describing how to replace the front wheel bearings. In the front, the bearing is part of a "hub cartridge". Randy is describing how to change the rear bearings on a truck with a "dead" rear axle. The sort of differential which is one massive cast iron assembly from rim to rim. However, your truck has an IRS [Independent Rear Suspension] design. You need to remove the wheels, brakes & the complete rear knuckle assembly. To remove the bearing from the knuckle requires a hydraulic press and a "knife edge" bearing removal tool. I doubt that you have these tools available. If not, find an auto parts store or auto machine shop with these tools. They can press the old bearing out and install the new one for you. Then you can reassemble the knuckle assembly from that point on. The video linked below should help you.

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel of the hub bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; do not remove them.

4Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner. Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if present.

5Remove the lug nuts and wheel.

6Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket.

7Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight-edged screwdriver and support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose.

8Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles, the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying out with the screwdriver. On other models, the pads stay intact and may be clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure you're able to put them back in the same manner they were extracted.

9Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it with a large rubber mallet. Use a rubber mallet if you're not going to replace the rotor, so you don't damage the surface.

10Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel-bearing hub assembly, a new one will come with it. If you're not sure, check the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire until you locate the plug, unplug it and unclip it from its mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly, remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket.

11Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut.

12Locate the wheel-bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle, and loosen them with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with. You may have to apply some ingenuity. Replace the socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts quickly and easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts.

13Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate. Take note of how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing so you can replace it in the same manner.

14Sand off the rust and corrosion around the knuckle with a fine- to medium-grade sandpaper. Move the drive-shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time when doing this and make sure it's as clean as possible.

15Place the backing plate in its original position and place the new bearing onto the knuckle. Manipulate the drive-shaft spindle splines into the center of the hub bearing. Push the bearing on as far as you can, making sure to line it up correctly if ABS lines or plugs are present.

16Replace the wheel-bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can thread them into the new bearing, start to tighten them. Pull the bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then switching to the next bolt to make sure the bearing assembly does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is drawn in flush, use the breaking bar to get the bolts as tight as you can get them.

17Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the half-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket.

18Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need to push the caliper piston in a bit with a C-clamp to get it over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing, if applicable.

19Replace the tire and lug nuts, and tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can get them.

20Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in an alternate fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut specifications torque setting.

21Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston.

22Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and go for a test drive.

try to reach in behind the dust plate on the back and loosen the adjuster wheel you will need two small flat blade screwdrivers to lift the catch and turn the little star wheel to loosen the pads. then bfh!

remove rubber plug from back of hub, insert screwdriver and turn adjuster wheel in direction that loosens--usually you want to turn it down to loosen. If you tell me year of car, I may be able to get you a picture.

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer
The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components
Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper
Rotor Removal
In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose.
Parking Brake
You might want to check the parking brake while you are here.
To remove:

Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

Remove the outboard return spring.

Remove the adjusting screw spring.

Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

Install the outboard return spring.

Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly
Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize.
Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening.
Refill the brake master cylinder

The rear hub and bearing are combined into a single assembly. The bearing is sealed for life and requires no lubrication or attention. If the bearing is worn or damaged, you have to replace the entire hub and bearing assembly:
loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, place it on jack stands and remove the rear wheel.
Remove the brake drum or caliper and disc.
Remove the dust cover (in the center).
Unstake the hub retaining nut (bend the part out that locks it), unscrew the nut and remove the thrust washer then remove the hub assembly.
Install the new assembly and thrust washer, tighten the new nut to torque 134 lbs, then stake in the edge of the nut (opposite of unstaking).
Tap the dust cover into place, all around the edge until it's seated.
Reverse removal for the rest.
Hope this helps you understand the process.

Step1
Park the vehicle on a flat, level paved or concrete surface. Place the vehicle in gear or park and apply the parking brake.
Step2
Place a wheel chock behind a rear tire (or front if you're doing a rear
hub bearing assembly). Break the lug nuts loose of wheel of the hub
bearing you're replacing with the breaking bar and a socket; just
loosen-- do not remove them until the wheel is lifted off of the
ground. Lift the wheel with the floor jack in a safe and secure manner.
Support the vehicle on a jack stand, preferably on the frame rail if
present. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
Step3
Locate the caliper bolts and remove them with the ratchet and a socket.
Pry the caliper off gently using a large straight edged screwdriver and
support the caliper on the coil spring with a bungy cord. Do not allow
the caliper to dangle on the rubber brake hose.
Step4
Locate the caliper bridge bolts (if applicable) and remove them with
the ratchet and a socket. You may want to break them loose with the
breaking bar first if they're really tight. On some vehicles,
the brake pads will remain in the bridge and can be removed by prying
out with the screwdriver. Other models, the pads may stay intact and
clipped to the caliper. If you have to remove the pads, do so by taking
note how they were placed in the bridge and be sure when it comes time
to put them back in, that you do so in the same manner they were
extracted.
Step5
Remove the rotor. If it is stuck to the hub, you may have to hit it
with a large rubber mallet. Only use a rubber mallet if you're not
intending on replacing the rotor so you do not damage the surface of
it. It may require a degree of determination to break it free.
Step6
Remove any ABS wires attached to the hub bearing assembly (if
applicable) or unclip the wire and trace it to the plug. In many
applications, if the ABS wire is integrated with the wheel bearing hub
assembly, a new one is going to come with it. If you're not sure, check
the box of the new bearing and if there's an ABS wire, follow the wire
until you locate the plug, unplug it and simply unclip it from it's
mounts. If ABS is present but not integrated with the bearing assembly,
remove the sensor from the bearing with a ratchet and socket. If you do
not have ABS wires, you can skip this step.
Step7
Remove the spindle nut with the breaking bar and a spindle nut socket. Remove the washer behind the spindle nut.
Step8
Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts behind the knuckle. Loosen them
with the breaking bar and socket. The location of these can sometimes
create a tight area to place a socket and tool on to remove them with.
You may have to apply some ingenuity. Once they're loose, replace the
socket on the ratchet to extract the bolts more quickly and much
easier. Most hubs have three or four bolts.
Step9
Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure with tightened
lug nuts. This may take several attempts and a couple of breaks in
between to remove the hub bearing from the knuckle. Pay close attention
to your progress and try to determine when the bearing will separate so
you do not hurt yourself while slide hammering. Take note how the
backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to
replace it in the same manner.
Step10
Using a fine to medium grade sand paper, sand off the rust and
corrosion around the knuckle. You'll have to strategically move the
drive shaft spindle around to get it out of your way. Take your time
when doing this because you want that as clean as you can get it before
installing the new bearing.
Step11
Place the backing plate back in it's original place and place the new
bearing onto the knuckle. You'll have to manipulate the drive shaft
spindle splines correctly into the center of the hub bearing. Push the
bearing on as far as you can but be sure to line it up correctly if ABS
lines or plugs are present. Once it is on far enough, replace the wheel
bearing assembly bolts. They're pretty long, so as soon as you can
thread them into the new bearing, then start to tighten them. Pull the
bearing in by tightening the bolts a little bit at a time and then
switching to the next bolt. This will make sure the bearing assembly
does not shift in the knuckle and cause damage. Once the bearing is
drawn in flush, tighten the bolts one last time with the breaking bar
as tight as you can get them.
Step12
Replace washer and spindle nut and tighten to proper torque specifications with the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and spindle socket.
Step13
Replace the brakes in the same manner you extracted them. You may need
to push the caliper piston in a little bit with a C-clamp to get it
over the rotor. Plug in the ABS lines or reattach them to the bearing
if applicable.
Step14
Replace the tire and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can
get them, then lower the vehicle and tighten them in an alternate
fashion with the torque wrench and socket at the correct wheel nut
specifications torque setting.
Step15
Pump the brake pedal if you had to push the caliper piston in with a
C-clamp to restore hydraulic pressure to that caliper piston. Remove
the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and test drive.

Rear wheels are more suseptible to corrosion than are the front. A corrosion ring forms between the brake rotor and the wheel hub assembly. Use a large rubber mallet or a baby sledge to hit along the top edge of the rotor in order to break the corrosion ring. Some care may be needed if you are trying to re-use the rotor after they are turned down, otherwise you can hit the rotor much harder, and they should break free.

If not, apply some heat to the seam area between the rotor and hub. It will smoke, but do not get it red hot. Remove the heat and try using the hammer once again. Be careful not to grab the hot portion of the rotor when it breaks free.