Contributed Comments

Comments: To clarify gear, I used two 0.4 Camalots on the FA not two #4s. You could also probably take two #3s, although I think the #4 works better at the top of the wide crack. The wide section is actually pretty fun, laybacking the edge and climbing stacked (safely wedged) blocks on jugs. The first roof is a hoot - completely improbable as you are standing below it, but everything is there when you need it.

Comments: Regarding the fixed gear, the climb was done ground up over the course of a couple of seasons. We placed what was reasonable at the time and a pin is always faster and easier to place than a bolt. Some of the line got straightened out over time with better fixed gear allowing for a better line. I feel that most of the bolts are pretty good with the exception of the half depth button head on the first belay. Gary Hicks broke the bit when drilling that bolt and placed it anyway to back up the f... more >>

Comments: The Santa Fe National Forest issued a temporary closure order for Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave on August 21st. The closure applies to all users and is in effect until rescinded or for one year and includes the cave and surrounding area within 50 feet as well as the access trails. They plan on fencing and posting the area next week. Violations are punishable by fines of up to $5000 and/or imprisonment of up to 6 months.

Comments: The Forest Service is in the process of signing a temporary closure order for Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave in order to do an archeological investigation of the area. The Cave is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and as such is protected from damage or vandalism by Federal Law and subject to prosecution. Depending on the results of the investigation the area may be subject to permanent closure. At this point in time I would recommend that climbers refrain from climbing at Crystal ... more >>

Comments: I just got this message from Jeff Harris the Jemez Ranger Station Recreation Staff "We got up to the cave this morning with our archeologists. It is safe to say that we all were greatly impressed. Thank you and the volunteer crew for removing the chains/quickdraws. Your effort is greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Jeff." Let's hope this proactive gesture buys us some good will with the Forest Service and Jemez Pueblo. It looks like we have a meeting set up with them for late July to discuss the... more >>

Comments: Crystal Cave is at risk of closure due to concerns from the Forest Service and Jemez Pueblo about the cultural and archaeological significance of Jemez (aka Crystal) Cave. The cave is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is significant due to the discovery of possibly the earliest dated food source in the SW as well as cultural significance to the Pueblo. In brief, there is concern that climbing could be impacting archaeological soot deposits, that the cave may be an ancient b... more >>

Comments: The last I heard in early October was that there was a closure sign on the road. If the road is posted as closed, please respect the closure and use the Davenport Canyon access. NM CRAG and the Access Fund are currently in discussions with the landowner to clarify the landowners intention with regards to access through Thompson Canyon and will post details here once final word is received from the ranch owners.

Comments: The NM Climbers' Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG) will be holding its annual meeting to elect officers on Friday July 16th at Stone Age Climbing Gym at 6:30 pm. In addition to holding elections for new officers the main purpose of this meeting will be to discuss a proposal to the US Forest Service (USFS) regarding the management of fixed anchors in the Sandia Mountain Wilderness.

An incident occurred a few weeks ago in which several well meaning but misguided climbers were using a motor... more >>