Hey guys, got my F-35 and have some problems. 1. left main gear is jammed, no compression. 2. bomb bay doors seem warped, almost bent. will not lay flat. Anybody else? What is the trick to tacking apart the lg w/o breaking it? I need to do the spring mod. Both my intackes were crumpled also

Hey guys, got my F-35 and have some problems. 1. left main gear is jammed, no compression. 2. bomb bay doors seem warped, almost bent. will not lay flat. Anybody else? What is the trick to tacking apart the lg w/o breaking it? I need to do the spring mod. Both my intackes were crumpled also

Post 341 2 pages back shows the lg. If the intakes are crumpled send it back. Who did you order it from. Or is it minor.
Warped doors etc is an easy fix. Either low heat iron it from the back side or lay it flat and add a thin layer of epoxy on the inside. See what the vendor can do though.

I got it from banana, and the intakes are just crumpled in alittle. Still it just looks bad, tried to pull them straight but its still creased. will check that post about the gear, thanks. Hey Maxx, ive never set up a TV jet b4 and im using a dx7. Can you point me in the right direction for programing and rx pin placement.

I have solved the leap off the ground take offs that we are all experiencing; I did two flights today and I am very happy with the results.

Here are the steps that have worked out great for two of our F-35's; you should be able to finish this mod in under an hour.

Carefully remove one of the scissor pins on one of the main gear " these can break easily but you can use a small bolt and nut if this happens"; this will allow you to pull out the lower end of the strut and set aside.

Take a small screw driver or similar tool and gently work the spring out. You might want to have the model right side up so you have gravity helping you. If this does not work take a paper clip and bend a very small hook at one end; use this to grab the spring and pull out of the upper part of the strut.

Cut 1/2 inch off of the spring; on the larger of the two spring halves bend the cut end up slightly so that it does not gouge out the upper strut when compressed.

Reassemble the strut "if you have the standard Servo activated gear you might want to use the servo slow feature on your transmitter so you don't strip one of the servo gears" if you have the servoless retract gear don't need to worry about anything. Now retract the gear; notice that the scissor now hits the side of the fuse; mark this spot or press the strut down slightly just enough to leave an imprint in the foam. Use a dremel to grind out a channel so that the gear close fully without binding.

More than likely you will need readjust the spectra string so that the gear doors will close better. I used a bit of fishing line on my doors and it works reasonably well.

The results is that you should now have the mains about 1/2 shorter that will give enough positive incidence to allow for smooth takeoffs. I am attaching pictures and video now.

The LX has a much better/accurate external scale appearance but lacks a proper duct. The gear is better with the exception of running off rough grass from smaller wheels.

The FW is a little smaller but gets better performance from its EDF because it has a smooth duct and a better TV or thrust vectoring unit. This allows it a smaller drive train setup to perform very well for its weight.

Both do not appear to fly much differently and I would guess only vary depending on what they are equipped with.

Just getting this one going ...could someone tell me , is this ment to run on elevons ???? I know its wired this way , but is it better ele / ail separate .... Please gimmie your input ...I am using DX8

Just getting this one going ...could someone tell me , is this ment to run on elevons ???? I know its wired this way , but is it better ele / ail separate .... Please gimmie your input ...I am using DX8

Thanks Todd in Vegas

you can do either but with a DX8 you have options.

Firstly they wire this that the tailerons are slaved to the ailerons (the F35 doesn't have elevons). But this config mean when you pitch up the ailerons become spoilerons reducing lift and pitch down and they become flaps. Not the best way.

The wiring can be changed to allow this to work per design having the tailerons work independently for pitch and roll and the ailerons as ailerons and flapperons for roll and lift.

There is a vid posted in this thread I believe.... or in the other thread that showed the improved landing characteristic of having flapperons and tailerons.

On the DX8 the taileron mix is elevon or on JR Delta. You'll need to sort out your channel choices to make certain flap mixes don't get applied to the tailerons.

We've posted a few comments on this so you can look back at additional details.

Firstly they wire this that the tailerons are slaved to the ailerons (the F35 doesn't have elevons). But this config mean when you pitch up the ailerons become spoilerons reducing lift and pitch down and they become flaps. Not the best way.

The wiring can be changed to allow this to work per design having the tailerons work independently for pitch and roll and the ailerons as ailerons and flapperons for roll and lift.

There is a vid posted in this thread I believe.... or in the other thread that showed the improved landing characteristic of having flapperons and tailerons.

On the DX8 the taileron mix is elevon or on JR Delta. You'll need to sort out your channel choices to make certain flap mixes don't get applied to the tailerons.

We've posted a few comments on this so you can look back at additional details.

So set the wing type to elevon on the DX8 ?? wouldnt that make the aileron also work with the elevator as well ??? Is there a step by step on this radio to set up for this plane ??? I do appreciate your help - just trying to figure out the right setup for this radio ....and yes I think i would want to set up flaps as well