Tapped into San Diego

Brandon Hernández’s frank, encyclopedic survey of local breweries

San Diego County now has 78 breweries — wait a minute and we’ll probably have 79. Whatever the exact figure, San Diego’s brewing community is vast, producing more than 1,000 unique ales and lagers of wildly varied character and quality. Obviously, this ocean of suds cannot be judged by one person.

Unless, perhaps, that person is Brandon Hernández.

A veteran food and beer writer who is one of U-T San Diego’s Superdiners, Hernández dispenses pints of refreshing criticism in his new e-book, “San Diego Beer News Complete Guide to San Diego Breweries” (San Diego Reader Books; 108 pages; $6.99).

“There is no place like San Diego,” he writes, “when it comes to craft beer.”

While many American beer writers are careful not to offend, Hernández serves up bouquets and brickbats with an educated palate and a discerning style.

Admission: Free with proof of purchase of ebook (available on Amazon, Barnes & Noble and iTunes)

Information: stoneworldbistro.com

Arguable, too. That adds value to this opinionated guide, which is sure to spark a thousand bar stool arguments. I think his overall rating of Alpine (91 out of 100) is low, as is his take on Karl Strauss’ beers (40 out of 50). And do Latitude 33’s ales (38) really top those of two fellow Vistans, Iron Fist (36) and Mother Earth (34)?

Yet this work is an invaluable summary of San Diego brewing, circa 2013, in all of its yeasty, effervescent glory. Hernández traveled widely, drank deeply and consulted broadly. (As a full-time employee of Stone Brewing, he delegated ratings of that powerhouse to other craft beer insiders.)

“Complete Guide” came out last month, simultaneously with a paperback on a similar mission: Bruce Glassman’s “The San Diego Brewery Guide” (Georgian Bay Books; 176 pages; $16.95). Because I wrote that book’s introduction, I’m the wrong person to assess its strengths and weaknesses.

But I can say that fans of San Diego beer have more choices — and more reliable guides — than ever.