A heartfelt rebuttal to Mexico City's bad rap

Get to know the beauty and the bustle of Mexico's capital

Mexico City is huge. It's the second-biggest city in the world (after Tokyo) and the biggest in the Americas, with more than 22 million people. That's about two-thirds the population of Canada.

Photograph by: Alejandro Rosasorta
, for Postmedia News

You have breakfast in a sidewalk cafe on a shady, tree-lined street. In the morning, you go visit the huge pyramids an hour away, then come back to the city in the afternoon to enjoy a leisurely boat ride through an extensive series of canals.

No, you aren't in Paris, Cairo or Venice.

The next day you visit old churches and other historic buildings before walking along a wide, modern avenue lined with glistening office towers and dotted with statues and fountains. Then you go check out world-class art museums and finish the day with an incredible steak at an Argentine restaurant.

No, you aren't in London, New York or Buenos Aires.

Actually, you're in Mexico City, and you've barely scratched the surface of this complex and fascinating city.

Hold on, you say. Mexico City? Isn't that the dirty, crime-ridden capital that people avoid on their way to the nice places in Mexico?

If there's one thing I've learned in my travelling, it's that nowhere lives up (or down) to its bad reputation. Nowhere is this truer than Mexico City, a place I have come to know and love, and call my temporary home.

Mexico City is huge. It's the second-biggest city in the world (after Tokyo) and the biggest in the Americas, with more than 22 million people. That's about two-thirds the population of Canada. With so many people, of course there is going to be crime. But there's also going to be everything else -- things you're looking for, and a lot more that will surprise you. It's a world unto itself, like the New York City of Latin America.

If you love big cities, art, food, architecture or nightlife, it would be a shame to miss it. It would be an even bigger shame to say you "know" Mexico without taking a crack at this megalopolis, where one in five Mexicans live. Besides, so many Canadians fly through Mexico City to the country's resorts without thinking of stopping: Why not add a little urban culture to your Mexican vacation?

There are some bad parts of Mexico City, sure, just as there are in any big city. Most are far away from the places you'll visit, anyway. If you get a map, keep your wits about you (which you should always do travelling) and memorize a few key Spanish phrases ( "Donde esta el bano?"), you'll see the city and think: "Huh. What is all the fuss about?"

Mexico City residents (chilangos) are kind and polite, even if they like to honk their horns or push a little on the subway. Many speak English and would be happy to give you directions or recommend their favourite tacos. Like many European cities, the streets can be a little confusing as they aren't always in a grid pattern, but getting lost can be fun: You'll see street vendors and quiet little plazas, strange art installations and couples kissing on street benches.

If you're really lost, just jump on a bus (almost all lead to a subway station) and you'll be oriented again in no time.

And oh, the food. Ask anyone, and about half will tell you their family is from a different part of Mexico, which means the city is a smorgasbord of cuisine from around the country. There are tacos, of course, whether greasily delicious at a sidewalk stand or served at a proper sit-down restaurant. But there are also quesadillas, chilaquiles, enchiladas, mole poblano and a whole lot of other strange things you've never heard of before. Not all of it is spicy, though you'll always have a bowl or two of salsa if you want to turn up the heat. For dessert, there are fancy cakes, deep-fried pastries or just a cup of fresh mango and papaya. The food is so good you won't care that you gain five pounds on your holiday.

So what should you do during a visit to Mexico City? The most difficult question in such a big place is where to start?

Mexico's size might seem unmanageable, but it gets easier when you break it down into chunks. The city is made up of 16 delegaciones, or districts, and these are further broken into colonias, or neighbourhoods. As a tourist, you'll mostly be interested in the central delegacion of Cuauhtemoc, as well as bits of Miguel Hidalgo, Coyoacan and Xochimilco.

Most trips to Mexico City logically start in the historic centre. This area has been cleaned up in recent years, although some parts are still in disrepair. Even so, the centre contains many of the city's most important landmarks, including the vast Zocalo, the giant square that feels like -- and is -- the centre of the Mexican universe. Then there's the elegant Bellas Artes (the beautiful fine arts museum), the opulent post office building, dozens of museums and endless colonial architecture.

But for many people, the best (and more relaxing) parts of Mexico City are outside the centre. South of downtown in delegacion Cuauhtemoc, there are several interesting neighbourhoods. While these don't really have any tourist sites, they are some of the best places to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. Colonia Juarez contains the Zona Rosa, which has become the main gay neighbourhood over the last decade. It has a fun, exuberant feel, especially after Mexico City legalized gay marriage in 2009. Then there's Condesa, a chic colonial neighbourhood with trendy restaurants, lovely cafes and shady parks where fashionable Mexicans go to walk their designer dogs. Nearby is bohemian Roma, which is a little grungier and cheaper than Condesa but just as fashionable.

Southwest of downtown in delegacion Miguel Hidalgo is the Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City's relaxing answer to New York's Central Park. It's a good place to go for a picnic or visit the world-class history, modern art and anthropology museums. Walk north of the park and you'll find yourself in wealthy Polanco, home to international designer boutiques, Starbucks and expensive apartments.

Outside the centre are lots of possibilities for great day trips. For those interested in history, a trip to central Coyoacan is a must. Once a separate village but long since absorbed by the metropolis, Coyoacan is where notable figures such as Leon Trotsky, Frida Kahlo and Diego Riviera lived. You can visit their houses and just enjoy the tranquillity of this charming neighbourhood. Further south, the big delegacion of Xochimilco has an extensive system of meandering rural canals. Go and rent a colourful boat (propelled by a pole) and glide along the water while being served food and drink from taco and beer boats. Finally, outside the city are the famous pyramids of Teotihuacan, one of the largest cities in the world a millennium and a half ago. About an hour outside the city, it's easily reached by public bus or private tour.

Even if you see all these sites, you will only scratch the surface of this metropolis. Maybe you'll become like me, fascinated with a city that endlessly surprises and amazes, and come back for a second trip.

Caitlin Evans is a full-time English teacher and part-time writer living in Mexico City. She loves to travel, but she's always happy to come home to Edmonton for the holidays.

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IF YOU GO

- Getting there: You can fly Air Canada to Mexico City through Vancouver or Toronto, or take another airline and fly through the U.S. Delta, Continental, US Airways and American Airlines are all options. If you're planning to head to the beach or somewhere else in Mexico, local airlines Aeromexico, Volaris and Interjet connect all major Mexican destinations with the capital.

- When to go: Winter is a great time to go to Mexico City because the rainy season has stopped and the sun is shining. But any time is a good time to visit.

- What to pack: The key in Mexico City is layering. In the morning and evenings it can get cool, while around midday it's usually warm. With sweaters, T-shirts and jeans you should be OK.

- Where to stay: A lot of people stay in the historic centre, but I think colonia Condesa (or Roma, Cuauhtemoc and Juarez) would make a more tranquil (but still central) home base for your time in Mexico City. For recommendations, get a good guidebook (I use Lonely Planet).

- Where to avoid: Like any big city, there are some areas you'd want to avoid. In general, you'll want to avoid the central colonias of Doctores and Tepito unless you have a reliable Mexican guide. There are plenty of not-so-nice areas outside the centre, but you don't really have a reason to visit them anyway.

--Documents: Canadians don't need a visa to enter Mexico, but make sure to hold on to the tourist card you receive upon entry. If you don't keep it, you might face some hassle or fines upon exit.

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