First there was the well-publicised split with Marcus Wareing and the Berkeley Hotel. Then, having secured the name Petrus, Ramsay relocated and reopened just down the road. Consequence? Plenty to prove. Verdict? Service is slick, food Michelin-friendly, dining room quietly impressive. Incidentally, the latter features a central, glass-walled, floor-to-ceiling wine room that showcases such rarities as a 1961 magnum of Petrus, yours for a very reasonable £49,500.