No I didn't bother, because I'm not talking about video playback, I'm talking about normal desktop colour space.

The point is not to make the desktop look like the video, but the video to look like the desktop (0-255) and then move the settings on your TV. Whatever the 3200 output is now irrelevant.

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I've left it on Limited since it's the same as Full.

It's not the same. It may look the same, but if it's working correctly, Limited should compress the full range, to later be expanded by your display again. This is OK for dedicated players whose content already comes compressed anyway, but for the PC levels which are natively 0-255 it is not a lossless process. Even if the Limited RGB setting is not working correctly and it does give you the same, just set it to Full RGB to be sure cause there's no easy way to know for sure if Limited is changing something that can't be easily seen.

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I know this, I've been talking about desktop colour space this whole time, since Desktop Colour Space = Same as video playback when you don't use the advanced features on the 5000 series (DR range.)

Again, the constant should be the desktop black/white levels. You adjust the video to match that. Without the AVIVO "dynamic range" setting, you may (very likely) have inconsistent results with different players/renderers. This has been a problem for many of us since before the 2000 series. The 5000 series has now the DR option in AVIVO which finally gives constant black/white levels across the board (MC, PowerDVD, TMT, HD/SD video, etc). Enabling it and setting it to 0-255 should give video the same levels as the desktop. Then you calibrate your TV to get black blacks.

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You seem to think I have no idea what I'm talking about, when I've seen all the differences right in front of me from the HD3200 and the 5670.

HD3200 - FULL = Have to set TV to NORMAL
HD3200 - LIMITED = Have to set TV to LOW

5670 - FULL/LIMITED = The same, have to leave both on LOW.

I don't know how many times I can explain this so that you believe me

I didn't say I don't believe you, don't be so paranoid. I'm just trying to isolate certain things. The desktop color space is whatever the PC outputs.

So what's the problem on leaving your black level to low?

As a side note, I messed around with my friend's Samsung LCD. I'm not sure what the normal/low settings do, but I'd just leave it on normal, and instead play with the brightness slider.

As a side note, I messed around with my friend's Samsung LCD. I'm not sure what the normal/low settings do, but I'd just leave it on normal, and instead play with the brightness slider.

For the Samsung TV, the Brightness level is only a selectable option when the TV is fed an RGB signal. The Normal (0-255)/Low (16-235) is for manually specifying the colour range/levels of the signal.

Because I use my desktop, and Media Portal, I NEED correct black levels OUTSIDE of video playback so that it's all easily visible, whether im browsing a TV series listing in Media Portal, or actually playing an episode.

Using the Dynamic Range setting on the 5000 series makes all video content 16-235, meaning I have to darken my TV's brightness to get correct levels under video playback, but the side effect is desktop use/MediaPortal is now darker than it should be.

Waaaay back when I used a 9800 Pro video card, the drivers back then didn't cut off/clip the colour range, so everything with VMR9 was true 16-235 while the desktop was 0-255, so I would have the TV set for those levels, and didn't care for the desktop being darker (I also didn't use MediaPortal back then).

When I got my HD3200 going I was pretty shocked that it was now all different, eventually I accepted that I'd never get 16-235 again and got used to it, ultimately it was the best option for having everything the same range.

I'm going to continue doing it this way, since I've tried the Dynamic range and really didn't see any improvement to justify having screwed desktop/MediaPortal levels, ( yes, I recalibrated my display for the change in the levels.)

I don't think ignoring how the RGB settings under the 3200HD work is right, considering that those settings actually WORKED, where as now they don't with the 5670 (and maybe the entire 5000 range.)

Changing from Limited/Full SHOULD produce a visible change in blacks on the desktop, as long as the TV isn't adjusting itself, which in my case it is not, because that adjustment has to be done manually with an RGB signal.

In my quest for HD audio, I purchased a ASUS 5770. When using the asus 5770 to onkyo 805 HDMI to HDMI HDFURY 2 to RGB to older projector, My Windows 7 system will POST, boot start, Splash screen appears for a quick moment then when it sees the card during boot, both the primary (DVI) and HDMI screens goes dark then off. If the HDFURY2 is disconnected, system boots normally. 5770 direct to HDFURY 2 has the same issue.

What I am thinking is the HDFURY2 EDID/handshake may be the issue.
Also, since I can dual boot, XP does not have the same issue. My older asus 3450 video card works in both OS' also. I verified the ATI drivers are the same release in both OS'. I have also tracked down and verified the HDFURY 2 does not have the reported HDFURY EDID corruption.

I am asking for ideas to debug the video issues, then back onto my quest.

Don't know if this is a known problem with the latest cards, but is anyone with a 5000 series card still getting problems coming out of S3 sleep like many suffered on the 4000 series?

Ideally I'd like to hear from someone who had problems with the latter and discovered they went away after upgrading!

In my particular instance using a 4650 and an EDID override (probably not needed anymore but it worked so I kept it!) I occasionally get an error "no sound device found" when coming out of sleep mode. Have to put the computer back to sleep and turn it on again to get it working.

I know you must be getting sick of this. I was wondering if you could combine my two MonInfo outputs for a final EDID override file. I have one of the last Sony rear projection TVs so Im thinking it will be different from what you already have done. Thanks a ton!!!

I know you must be getting sick of this. I was wondering if you could combine my two MonInfo outputs for a final EDID override file. I have one of the last Sony rear projection TVs so I’m thinking it will be different from what you already have done. Thanks a ton!!!

Again, the constant should be the desktop black/white levels. You adjust the video to match that. Without the AVIVO "dynamic range" setting, you may (very likely) have inconsistent results with different players/renderers. This has been a problem for many of us since before the 2000 series. The 5000 series has now the DR option in AVIVO which finally gives constant black/white levels across the board (MC, PowerDVD, TMT, HD/SD video, etc).

That may be the case on your setup, but it certainly isn't on mine (ATI 5750 using MPC-HC, WinDVD 2010, and TMT3 as players). I still get different results depending on the resolution (HD/SD) and what kind of renderer is used by the player software. On both commercial players the "Dynamic Range" option has no effect whatsoever. It is not a silver bullet. I wish ATI would explain in detail what it actually does.

That may be the case on your setup, but it certainly isn't on mine (ATI 5750 using MPC-HC, WinDVD 2010, and TMT3 as players). I still get different results depending on the resolution (HD/SD) and what kind of renderer is used by the player software. On both commercial players the "Dynamic Range" option has no effect whatsoever. It is not a silver bullet. I wish ATI would explain in detail what it actually does.

Weird, you're the first one I read about having the same problem as with previous cards. When the Dynamic Range option was discovered in CCC after the first 5000 series came out everybody was pretty happy.

Do you have the HW acceleration checked on TMT3 and WinDVD for both SD and HD, and do you have all video processing in both programs (including scaling and color enhancements) disabled in both? Video processing on WinDVD and PowerDVD (possibly TMT3 too) disables HW acceleration, but usually you can't do that processing on HD material, that could be a reason why it's inconsistent between the two.

If you're using Media Center, can you see if the Dynamic Range option has any effect on it and recorded TV or live TV?

Wanted to post some of my setup/thoughts to add to the discussion. I have a Samsung LN-T5781F TV. My HTPC has a 5750 on 10.1 drivers.

I run all my sources through a Pioneer SC-27 receiver. One HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. My other HDMI sources are TiVo series 3, PS3, and Xbox 360. I have everything configured for limited 16 - 235 display. The PS3 and Xbox are both configured for HDMI limited/low. On the HTPC, I have the Pixel Format set to RGB Limited and the Avivo video settings to 16 - 235.

Everything seems to look and work as it should. My reason for doing it this way is that the TiVo has no HDMI limited/full control option. As I understand it, it's always sending 16 - 235, so in order to not have to constantly switch TV settings for different sources, I just set everything to limited to be done.

My understanding as well is that the Blu-ray/DVD sources we're all playing are limited expansion anyway. The only thing that would run naturally at 0 - 255 are the PC desktop. I've read a lot of contention about Xbox/PS3 games being 0 - 255 or 16 - 235 so I don't have a good sense of exactly what's happening there.

@Andy O: I use DXVA for everything (the CPU in my HTPC is borderline for HD decoding anyway). Driver is Catalyst 10.1. I get inconsistent levels between the commercial players and MPC-HC and between SD and HD material on MPC-HC.

I suspect the display also plays a role in this. HDMI has a lot of different ways to handle video levels. E.g. there is an "IT contents" flag that can override the general level setting (this is apparently what the "ITC" option in the Catalyst driver sets), and some displays honor it and others don't ...

The ATI setting doesn't have any effect on MPC-HC for me, which renderer are you using? Are you on Windows 7/Vista, or XP? The only distinction for MPC-HC is SD vs. HD, and not, for instance, the format or decoder used?

So the difference on SD and HD material is only on MPC-HC then, and not on the commercial players? Cause if it is then we're getting somewhere. What's the difference between MPC-HC and the commercial players (which one is expanded and which is not)?

So far I've been pretty happy with this card XFX 5670 it's super silent and I'm even using the OC feature. BD/HD playback has been super smooth in MPC-HC, PDVD, Win2010 but one thing that I noticed is in MPC I get a lot of dropped frames when skiping using the scrub bar but playback is spot on. Assuming it's the drivers I won't worry about it right now I'm using 10.1 _hotfix_8.69.3.1rc1 and it needs work no doubt but it's very acceptable atm.

Edit: Ok it seems every time you resize MPC-HC or do anything it drops frames but playback super smooth.

Wanted to post some of my setup/thoughts to add to the discussion. I have a Samsung LN-T5781F TV. My HTPC has a 5750 on 10.1 drivers.

I run all my sources through a Pioneer SC-27 receiver. One HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. My other HDMI sources are TiVo series 3, PS3, and Xbox 360. I have everything configured for limited 16 - 235 display. The PS3 and Xbox are both configured for HDMI limited/low. On the HTPC, I have the Pixel Format set to RGB Limited and the Avivo video settings to 16 - 235.

Everything seems to look and work as it should. My reason for doing it this way is that the TiVo has no HDMI limited/full control option. As I understand it, it's always sending 16 - 235, so in order to not have to constantly switch TV settings for different sources, I just set everything to limited to be done.

My understanding as well is that the Blu-ray/DVD sources we're all playing are limited expansion anyway. The only thing that would run naturally at 0 - 255 are the PC desktop. I've read a lot of contention about Xbox/PS3 games being 0 - 255 or 16 - 235 so I don't have a good sense of exactly what's happening there.

That seems about right cause you have other devices that can't be configured as you said. The PS3 I think switches automatically for games and movies/video. Some TVs have automatic switching as well, so if your TV does and everything works as it should, you shouldn't have to worry about matching the other devices.

Those captures are useless (only 128-byte base block). Anyway, did you try the (*) onkyo mod. It should work for you.

I tried both EDID overrides (Onkyo Hitachi one and the other one). That didn't help.
How can I capture the full base block ? I cant find the Realtime device in the Display IDs (it only lists Registry and Sample devices). Thank you very much for the effort- any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

I tried both EDID overrides (Onkyo Hitachi one and the other one). That didn't help.
How can I capture the full base block ? I cant find the Realtime device in the Display IDs (it only lists Registry and Sample devices). Thank you very much for the effort- any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.