Chicago possesses all the necessary conditions for producing great restaurants: a variety of ethnic communities, a tradition of experimental cooking and an adventurous yet discriminating dining public. It's hard to imagine anyone being disappointed with the diversity and quality found at Chicago's tables. Recently, Chicago has experienced a resurgence of cafes (many with outdoor seating during the summer). Although chains such as Starbucks and Coffee Chicago abound, we like particularly the 3rd Coast cafes.

Comfort food to Chicagoans is a deadly serious (we're talking potential heart-attack) business. Most of these hometown treats have yet to be accepted outside the Chicagoland area. Test your arteries by sampling some of the deep-dish pizza, cheese fries, Italian beef, mammoth hot dogs and steaks that console Chicagoans after yet another Cubs loss.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

Blackbird—Chef Paul Kahan's menu of contemporary American cuisine is sure to please. We like the fish soup and any of the game dishes. It's located along the popular new restaurant row of W. Randolph Street. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-11:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 619 W. Randolph St., Chicago. Phone 312-715-0708.

Everest—You'll get spectacular city views from this very expensive French restaurant in Chicago's financial district. The menu contains very little red meat. The veal chop is out of this world, however, and the halibut in potato crust is delectable. All meals are prepared by award-winning chef/owner Jean Joho. For US$79, he'll provide a seven-course tasting menu that takes you through a beautiful array of specialties. Jacket and tie requested. Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations required six weeks in advance for weekends, one week for weekdays. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 440 S. LaSalle St., Chicago. Phone 312-663-8920.

Gibsons—This noisy, crowded, very popular steak house also provides excellent ribs and fish in an art-deco/1940s atmosphere. Cuts of meat are brought in on trays for your selection. The twice-baked potatoes are a great appetizer. Monday-Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 4 pm-midnight. Bar hours: Monday-Saturday 3 pm-2 am, Sunday 3 pm-12:30 am. Reservations recommended one to two weeks in advance. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1028 N. Rush St. (in the Gold Coast), Chicago. Phone 312-266-8999.

One Sixtyblue—The first thing you'll notice is the scale inside this eatery. High ceilings and tables and chairs sized for basketball players give a hint to one of the restaurant's partners—Michael Jordan. The menu includes venison, veal and steak, but non-red-meat eaters will find delicious selections to suit their tastes. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended for weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 160 N. Loomis St., Chicago. Phone 312-850-0303.

Topolobampo—Chef Rick Bayless has created something original in Topolobampo, a restaurant where Mexican food fuses with light European fare and where some things (seared elk in a fruity, nutty red chili sauce) simply defy any category. Gracious servers will make you happy from your first sip of a boutique tequila upon sitting down, right on through the unforgettable lemon tart. No jackets required, but not casual. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm. Dinner Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 445 N. Clark St., Chicago. Phone 312-661-1434.

Trio—Reservations may be difficult to get, but if you're willing to dine a little early or late on a weekday, you'll be treated to some of the best fusion cuisine served anywhere. The food is perhaps best described as French, Italian and Asian—all on one plate. Ask whether the kitchen table is available for a behind-the-scenes look at top chefs in action. Tuesday-Thursday 6-9:30 pm, Friday noon-1 pm and 6-10 pm, Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 11 am-1 pm and 5-9 pm. Reservations required two to four weeks in advance for prime-time weekend nights. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, Chicago. Phone 847-733-8746.

Davis Street Fishmarket—Fabulous seafood in a casual atmosphere is what this restaurant is all about. Our favorites include the shrimp ceviche and the chile-rubbed tuna. A seasonal catch from Lake Michigan is usually on the menu. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. Reservations advised for parties of five or more. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 501 Davis St., Evanston, Chicago. Phone 847-869-3474.

Fireside Restaurant & Lounge—This is a popular, established place with a strong local following. It's a 15-minute taxi ride from downtown, and when you get there, try the blackened catfish and dine by the wood-burning fireplace. They offer multilevel outdoor patio dining, but the noise from the elevated trains may drive you inside. Monday-Thursday 11 am-11 pm (full menu in the bar, however, till 3 am); Friday and Saturday 11 am-midnight (bar open till 3 am). $$. Most major credit cards. 5739 N. Ravenswood Ave., Chicago. Phone 773-878-5942.

Gold Coast Dogs—To get a real Chicago hot dog, complete with everything your mother warned you against (and a few other things she should have), head out to one of three Gold Coast Dogs locations. Hours vary by location. $. No credit cards. 418 N. State St., Chicago. Phone 312-527-1222.

Pasteur—This restaurant is always a good choice for Vietnamese food. About a 20-minute cab ride from downtown, the feel of the place is part modern and part old colonial, and the staff is friendly, if not crisp. Some nouvelle additions to traditional Southeast Asian fare are served. (We still like the clay-pot chicken.) Monday and Tuesday 5-10 pm, Wednesday and Thursday noon-10 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-11 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. 5525 N. Broadway (in the Uptown neighborhood—safe, but seedy elements are nearby), phone 773-878-1061.

Wishbone—Wishbone has the energetic feel of a family-run hangout, but the food distinguishes it from many comparably priced restaurants—not only for breakfast, but for lunch and dinner, too. The Southern offerings are unique to the city. Hoppin' John is a great seafood gumbo for dinner, but where else can you get shrimp and grits for breakfast? (They have standard American breakfasts, too.) You can bring your own liquor with no corkage fee. Monday 7 am-3 pm, Tuesday-Friday 7 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm (Friday till 11 pm), Saturday 8 am-2:30 pm and 5-11 pm, Sunday 8 am-2:30 pm. Reservations recommended for more than four people for dinner. $-$$, most major credit cards. 1800 W. Grand Ave., phone 312-829-3597. A second, less intimate Wishbone serves liquor: 1001 W. Washington Blvd. (in the shadow of Oprah's TV studio), phone 312-850-2663. Same hours, except closed on Monday.

Third Coast—Stay as long as you like at this neighborhood hangout offering chess, checkers and backgammon as well as terrific soups. A coffeehouse that serves liquor, this place is populated not only by students (who bring their laptop computers) but also by elected officials and their myriad friends and transplanted residents from everywhere. Don't expect great service. Daily 8 am-3 am. $, most major credit cards. 1260 N. Dearborn Parkway (in Gold Coast), phone 312-649-0730.

Ambria—This restaurant serves exciting nouvelle French cuisine in Lincoln Park's Belden Stratford Hotel. Great for a splurge—this is one of Chicago's most luxurious restaurants. Adjoining the main dining area are smaller rooms with a table for four tucked in each corner—private but sociable. Monday-Thursday 6-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-10:30 pm. Reservations required six weeks in advance. $$$$, most major credit cards. 2300 N. Lincoln Park W., phone 773-472-5959.

Kiki's Bistro—A landmark business restaurant that's intimate, has a good wine list and is popular with both locals and tourists-in-the-know. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. 900 N. Franklin St. (River North neighborhood), phone 312-335-5454.

Reza's—Reza's is the Persian restaurant to head for if the idea of a Middle Eastern meal in a hip, exposed-brick setting appeals to you. Popular with Middle Eastern expats and locals—all this in the Andersonville neighborhood, a traditionally Scandinavian place. (That's Chicago.) There are no surprises on the menu, which includes heaps of pita bread and feta cheese, no matter what you order. The humus and tabbouleh are exceptionally good. Daily 11 am-midnight. $, most major credit cards. 5255 N. Clark St., phone 773-561-1898.

Cafe Iberico—Of the many Spanish restaurants that started offering tapas in the past decade or so, Cafe Iberico is probably the best. It gets very busy and the service can be less than stellar, but the atmosphere is genuinely Spanish and the food is steeped in garlic. Most are traditional favorites such as giant garlic mushrooms, fried octopus and Spanish tortillas. Monday-Thursday 11 am-11:30 pm, Friday 11 am-1 am, Saturday noon-1 am, Sunday noon-11 pm. Reservations required for parties of six or more. No reservations on Fridays or Saturdays.Reservations required. $. Most major credit cards. 739 N. LaSalle St. (just west of the Magnificent Mile), Chicago. Phone 312-573-1510.

Russian Tea Time—This spot is located across from the Art Institute, and you can't go wrong with anything on its menu. The carrot salad seasoned with garlic and cumin is divine. Wild game, poultry and vegetarian entrees are served while traditional Russian music plays lightly in the background. It's loved for its vodka and caviar presentation and excellent desserts. Reservations recommended. Plan an early dinner hour. Monday 11 am-9 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-midnight, Sunday 11 am-9 pm. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. 77 E. Adams (downtown), phone 312-360-0000.

Signature Room at the 95th—The hauteur of the wait staff and the diminishing quality of the food notwithstanding, this semiformal dining room on the 95th floor of the John Hancock Center affords a spectacular view of the skyline, Lake Michigan and the Magnificent Mile. We like to take visitors there for a drink—you'll want to leave it at that. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11 am-3 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Sunday brunch (US$34) served 10 am-2 pm. $$$, most major credit cards. 875 N. Michigan Ave., phone 312-787-9596.