I can’t help but be reminded of Christian Dior’s pleat-filled haute couture runway show from earlier this year and the infamous 200-hour gown. Thanks to Refinery29 and fashion publisher Visionaire, you can view a video and get a close look at the months of hard work that went into creating one of Dior’s Spring 2015 looks. The hand-stitched gown, with delicate ribbons and hand-sewn pleats, opened viewers’ eyes to the complexity that lies behind such an astonishing runway collection and proved, once and for all, that pleats are the way to go. The video covers sketching, sewing and styling in a matter of minutes.

They way I see it, the wild popularity of pleats this year was inevitable. They take otherwise basic pieces and create subtle detail and structure; simple circle skirts and sheath dresses can go from bland to complex with the addition of a few folds. Whether you prefer leather or crepe, these stylish creases vary in size and material, establishing a sense of flirtation and sophistication for any season.

With an infinite array of choices, it can be hard to decide how to wear such a versatile look. Lucky for you, we selected a few to choose from.