40 years ago, this week, the surf cult movie’’Big Wednesday’ was released to the world, I remember as a grommet watching the huge waves on the big screen and thinking to myself how glad I was that we didn’t get that size here in Otago !
It’s fitting that i hook up with two big wave surfers this week, not even born then, who take on some southern ocean juice in similar size waves to that insane Big Wednesday end footage, Leroy Rust and Joe Dirtae paddle into some of the biggest waves this year so far at Papatowai, NZ,,,just them, no jet skis just a hard paddle, full survival mode within Mother Nature.