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I have been told as many times as I have to play football to weather the helmet. Theres only one thing though, I dont know how I created this thread because I never found information on how to weather the Jango helmet, but only found Boba. Dosnt really help me much because they are two different styles. I would try to figure it out by actually doing it, but I really only have one shot at getting it right. Please add how you weathered and made your helmets look more battle torn. Thanks!

I did the silver on my ears today by looking at the reference CD pics... I'm sure you know how to do that part, its just painting some silver on the edges.

For the black grime, I think everyone is putting black acrylic paint on there, letting it dry for a little, and then wiping it off before it has time to fully set.

Now, I'm not 100% sure that thats what they are doing, but its what it looks like and it makes sense. I'm going to be looking into it, and sending out some PM's... I'll post back after I hear from some folks.

Hmm...well I have an idea now, but just to know what paints to use, and the "proper" placement of it. I want it to have that kind of grime that you might see from the discharge of weapons, like for instance how if you shoot off a gun, you would get the spray of the gun powder. Something like that.

You want black and brown pastel chalks applied with a brush and sealed with clear matte spray. Thats a more realistic carbon and grime look. Its what i've use on my helmets and armor. Take a x-acto knife(carefully) and scrape the chalk into a dust pile and dip dry brush into it and then apply to helmet in layers. If it does not look right just wipe with damp towel and start over.
Have fun with it and Good luck!

You want black and brown pastel chalks applied with a brush and sealed with clear matte spray. Thats a more realistic carbon and grime look. Its what i've use on my helmets and armor. Take a x-acto knife(carefully) and scrape the chalk into a dust pile and dip dry brush into it and then apply to helmet in layers. If it does not look right just wipe with damp towel and start over.
Have fun with it and Good luck!

Thanks. Im happy to know how to do it now. The next part is to actualy get myself to do it...Getting past the "clean helmet" look is the hardest part now.

You want black and brown pastel chalks applied with a brush and sealed with clear matte spray. Thats a more realistic carbon and grime look. Its what i've use on my helmets and armor. Take a x-acto knife(carefully) and scrape the chalk into a dust pile and dip dry brush into it and then apply to helmet in layers. If it does not look right just wipe with damp towel and start over.
Have fun with it and Good luck!

I don't think that would work for Jango. The clear coat will dull the rub n buff.

I don't think that would work for Jango. The clear coat will dull the rub n buff.

Yes, I learned that first hand unfortunatly. Boy that was a long night of silvered hands and profanity....

The only parts on my helmet that are clear coated are the blue parts, anything silver, forget about it. I imagine it would be fine to try the dust-n-brush technique, and possibly add some water. I have a good referance when it comes to a good "rustic" look on silver. When I was doing marching band, I played sousaphone (the big thing that you can see from a mile away and hope to not be wearing in a lightning storm) and one thing that I noticed was how difficult it was too clean. If you want an idea as to how it looked, not surprisingly, look at SEEKER's old BKBT, or Jimmy BuFETT's new helmet, becuase the weathering grime he did looks pretty much exactly what was on our Sousa'a, the only difference, was that this was real...eww.

I just bought a clear coat/gloss from Lowes, and used that. First time, it made the whole helmet dull, and made the rubb and buff look like silver spray paint. The blue became dull as well. On my 13th time repainting the thing, I managed to make the blue have a "shine," as well as improve the rubb and buff.

I also have a question. I have come to my own conclusion that the natural oils that comes from our hands affects the rubb and buff, becuase recently, darkish spots started appearing only after handling. I'll post some pictures later. I realy want to redo the silver, but that means risking getting silver on the blue again and having to repait that. Lots of work...

I learned something new today,thanks!
I'm not a big fan of rub n buff and acrylic paints for weathering, thats why i use my method. I mean i have used it once on a BKBT helmet and it looked okay but i didn't really like the finish all that much, even after buffing it out really good. But thats why we are all here right? to help each other out:-)
So if you use RnB don't clear coat it.You can still use the pastels,they just won't be permanent.
But if you choose to use spray paints you can. Then you can clearcoat your pastels to be permanent:-)

I think acryllics are the way to go. They have the texture that spraypaint doesnt it would most definately add authenticity to the grime as it would be "raised" and thick in texture.
Except from the parts where you are making the areas round the T-visor look scratched, there you would need a flatter lying paint

Spraypaint silver does not look as good as Rub n Buff. Some people have tried "chroming" Jango but it doesn't look right. Jango is not shiny chrome. He is silver. There is no good silver paint out of the can that looks as good as Rub n Buff.

Tuba, for my Jango bucket I used a blackwash brushed on. I would use the brush to dab it on then use a tissue to dab it up if it was too much. Mr. Spideyfett clued me in with the following tips:

"Just get some Acrylic Charcol Gray paint (looks black)......you can find it under the brand name DELTACOAT at Micheals or Hobby Lobby (really cheap)..
I would use Seekers or the JANGO REF Pics as guide....
Start very sparingly, and be sure to use water as a thinner..."

There you go, thanks to Spideyfett and me.

P.S. I was scared to death to weather my nice clean bucket too, but you'll do fine. I have no experience, and it turned out great.

Chris, the acrylic paint worked great. Its 40 cents for the container you see between the helmets. Don't worry about 'having one shot' to get it right. The paint takes a long time to fully cure, and can be wiped off with just a drop of water up to 30 minutes later. I started painting, went to eat dinner, and then came back and decided to change what I did. Not a spec of the old stuff was left behind.

The paint brand I used is Apple Barrel. The paint number is 20504 Black. My wife picked it up for me, it came from either Walmart, in the craft section, or AC Moore. Not 100% sure where she stopped for it, but its one of the two.