No crank, no start PNP, cam sensor, ignition switch?

Ok so I finally got my volvo back together, its been parked since winter.

At that time, I did water pump, timing belt, tensioners etc.

New thermostat, rear cam seals, plugs, wires, distributor, air filter, new coolant hoses all around

New pcv set up and since the manifold was off, I replaced the starter as it had failed one day prior to parking it.

I also ported the manifold and added the 960TB to the set up

All and all its been very busy, I finally got everything buttoned up and put coolant and water in to get it distributed throughout and figured I would start the car and get it running to circulate the coolant

no dice, there is no cranking at all, there was one check engine code and it read P0120, I cleared it and it never came back again. There was also a blinking upshift arrow on the dash, I can hear the fuel pump hum, if I turn the key over, nothing happens.

I pulled my jeep up next to it to jump start it and it really made no difference, all I can hear (while it was being jumped) was a slight clicking noise, but its not the starter, it actually came from under the dash area. I followed the clicking and it seems like its right under the ashtray and to the right by the passenger side. It feels like a connection almost.

Im really at a loss at this point and was really excited to get it up and running.

Up to this point, I have only checked the fuses and connections of things. I do have reverse lights as well. I also tried the "rowing" idea with no dice...
Is there anyway to test any of the above mentioned items to be sure if it is bad or working? Meaning the PNP, Cam sensor, or ignition switch?

I dont want to go any buy anything until I know for sure things are not working..

Cam sensor will not cause it to not crank. Your looking at the ignition switch, PNP, battery connections or starter. I would start ruling these out. Jump the starter at the trigger for the solenoid, confirm it works. The PNP had a pass through that will terminate the starter from firing. I would not put much into the clicking you hear in the console other than the possibility that there is a power issue in the car due to maybe a corroded terminal connection or loss of ground.

Thank you for the response. Upon inspecting it again, I noticed I had left a positive cable off the starter. I thought surely this was the issue but it was still the same. Ive replaced hundreds of starters and cant believe I left a cable off. Its caused me to second guess myself with the starter now. To be clear, the post on the solenoid nearest the front of the car is where all the positive cables go? Then in the middle is a male spade connector and this takes the green wire with the female spade connector, lastly is the post closest to the engine and it has a braided wire that connects to the starter itself? Dumb question, but I also have a thin orange wire with an eye loop on it, as of now its on the post with the positive cables because I really couldnt remember where it went. Thank you.

Best to pull it and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it.

If you are trying to jump it when it's installed you are jumping from the heavy insulated cable to the smaller wire spade connector. The heavy cable is hot all the time as it's end is bolted to the battery. The small wire is from the ignition and is only "Hot" when you have the key turned to start. This is to test if the solenoid and starter are good.
That electricity from the ignition switch is what closes the contacts inside the solenoid and allows the electricity from the battery through the heavy cable to connect to the starter motor and spin it.

If you jump the two big terminals together, one with the heavy insulated cable (battery +) and the braided cable going tinto the starter you are bypassing the solenoid and supplying battery power directly to the starter. You'll normally have a big spark when you do this and the handle ends of a pliers are a good thing to use for this.

From his description the new starter sounds like it's not functional. Pulling it and taking it in would at least verify that it's not working or show that it will and it's something with his cars wiring or testing method.

Best to pull it and take it to an auto parts store and have them test it.

If you are trying to jump it when it's installed you are jumping from the heavy insulated cable to the smaller wire spade connector. The heavy cable is hot all the time as it's end is bolted to the battery. The small wire is from the ignition and is only "Hot" when you have the key turned to start. This is to test if the solenoid and starter are good.
That electricity from the ignition switch is what closes the contacts inside the solenoid and allows the electricity from the battery through the heavy cable to connect to the starter motor and spin it.

If you jump the two big terminals together, one with the heavy insulated cable (battery +) and the braided cable going tinto the starter you are bypassing the solenoid and supplying battery power directly to the starter. You'll normally have a big spark when you do this and the handle ends of a pliers are a good thing to use for this.

Thank you both so much for your help.

Here is what I know

The battery shows 12v (I took it out to test it under load, will get back with new information)
There is 12v at the positive post
There is 12v at the signal wire, only with the key in.
By jumping the two larger posts, the starter will spin
By jumping the positive post to the signal spade results in nothing, no spark etc..