Only valid for active forum users. Active means at least 30 postings within the last 30 days (no spam postings). This will automatically being checked at www.starbike.com shopping basket so make sure that you are logged in at the WW board!If there does not appear a WW discount position when you check out you do not have enough postings!

Ok so now I'm officially PISSED. Rode the bike back to the shop, had them check it out, said it was norm for ZIPP hubs to loosen up a bit at first, they d have the mechanice check it out, tighten it up, etc.

Rode back 10 miles, just checked and its loose again, that little end piece ("clinch-nut"?) doesn't tighten up due to the tiny hex bolt that's waytoo small.

These hubs are the worst design I haave seen, I had no idea a hub could be so shodily made. I know there's been fair warning here on WW but I had also read they'd worked the hub out. Not so. The hex screw is #2, it couldn't be smaller or less effective and easier to strip the threads. An advanced wheelset should have a more advance locking-mechanism, a $3000 wheelset should not be held together by a $.003 screw!

Someone suggested I remove the clinch-nut and file it down to increase clamping distance for the screw.... I imagine this would void a warranty? Noit to mention pop the tiny head off that tiny screw.

the 2mm hex wrench screw will certainly keep the preload collar from moving. make sure you are using a sharp, high quality wrench. we've sold many hundreds of zipps with the current 88/188 hubs and we have never encountered a collar that migrated, or a preload collar screw that stripped or broke its head.tighten the collar until it just slightly requires effort to turn. do this with the wheel on the bike. to test that it is not overtightened, i like to roll the wheel forward 90degrees and watch the valve's weight swing the wheel around, like a pendulum. if it does not swing back and forth, it's too tight.once the collar is adjusted, and it is not in its "aero" position, just open the qr, move the whole axle around until it's pointed in the preferred direction, and close the qr. on the front, one collar is the bearing preload, the other is simply clamped on, so its position can be matched to wherever the preload collar needs to be.