Still working.
I went as far s I can on the boat port for a wail.
I did not go calling and the lawn did not need to be messed with.
Water bug time.
My buddy and I welded up some of the motor platform but did no get it welded to the boat.
I added some Pillars to disperse the weight , not welded in yet. I used a hole saw and cut the Sq tubing and drove it in , should hold better then just welded to the out side.

A VW motor mounts only to the transaxle so no actual motor mounts. I mane one . the motor will set on it and I'll bolt it on with the 2 studs on the front of the motor under the front pulley.

Then I plan on having a heave "L" bracket from the trany bell housing mount holes to the front of the motor mount.

The oil sump is in the very bottom of the case I had to cut a hole to change the oil.

Now I need more welding...
d

Edited by d4570

Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box

I had to relocate the starter an 1/8 inch as to let the front half turn freely.

Every thing is turning to the left and all the screw on parts are right hand thread. I have roll pins and nut locks an anything in the "Drive train". I'm going to do a power up soon to see if the VW 1600cc will make the clutch engage.

Edited by d4570 - 10 October 2017 at 20:39

Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box

Boy, if a tiny 2 cycle snowmobile engine (what CC size was on the sled motor clutch came off of?) will make the clutch function that VW motor surely should too. I forgot is it direct drive to prop or do you have a gear box between?????

Boy, if a tiny 2 cycle snowmobile engine (what CC size was on the sled motor clutch came off of?) will make the clutch function that VW motor surely should too. I forgot is it direct drive to prop or do you have a gear box between?????

The clutch runs off RPM.

A new SB has to run up to over 4000 rpm before it starts to lock up.

No gears but the drive starts out at 3 to 1 and as the rpm goes up the reduction goes down finally to .70 to 1. It'll have a chain at 1 to 1 from the secondary to the prop.

Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box

Back in my Mechanic days, I worked for a fracing company. They had Nitrogen trucks with a drop box PTO. The output on the drop box turned clockwise looking at it from the back. We had a heck of a time keeping the output shaft nut tight. I would put a little BLUE locktite on the lock nut as well. (I never liked using red locktite)

We ended up having a nut machined that was split and had an allen screw that would "clamp" the nut to the shaft after it was tight. That worked, but was a real pain to tighten the allen screw.

It looks like you will be on the water pretty soon. Way to go D.

Wing master

I have always considered myself to be quite the bullshitter, But ocasionally it is nice to sit back and listen to a true professional......So, Carry on.

New coil, plugs wires points and condenser. I set the valves and point with a feeler gauge ,remember them ? I had it running on the ground for like 5 minutes for the first test of the clutch adaptor that I had made. It failed in moments. I redesigned and had it fabbed up again, This time with a carrier bearing and a shaft that went in to the piolet bearing in the crank. Have not ran since. I built the hull made the motor mounts and finally mounted it on the boat.

Made a mount for the carrier bearing re did the starter to fit.

About a year later. Today I needed to start it up and see if my primary clutch off the 1969 Johnson snowmobile would even work.

Dang! I put the fuel line in to a gas can and hit the starter. A dozen turns and she came to life. I have not put a timing light on it yet but it ran very smooth from, 800 rpm (Idle) after the electric choke came all the way off , to 5000 rpm ( as fast as I wanted to turn it unloaded). As stated in the information I could find on the clutch It engaged at 1700rpm and at 3100 rpm was fully moved in for the reduction change. Everything sounded smooth and solid. I ran it for a half hour or so at 2500 rpm. I still have to do some work on my temp and oil psi apparently, but the oil on the dip stick was still cool to the touch. NICE!

Next to mount the secondary clutch, and see if that part works as expected !!!

Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box

It is a centrifugal clutch, Many of those don't disengage when speed is reduced...IF there is a heavy weight (mass inertia) load on them...they stay locked up. You prop may make it lock in 'engaged' mode!

Keep you finger on the 'kill switch' as you try to go to neutral. A short stop is much better than an unwanted travel up into a dock/parking lot.

Clutches are not usually rated/limited on a horsepower basis. they are rated/limited on a torque basis.

If the snowmachine ran at a higher RPM for that 40 hp rating; then if the VW engine is running at a lower RPM than snowmachine engine....you will be limited to torques much lower than the torque available from that VW engine, even at an aged 40 hp.

Also decelerating with the high inertia prop might get torques higher than the rated clutch torque, thereby skidding the clutch friction material. (wearing it out quick).

Yo d4570...no mechanical ability or knowledge here but..wondering if there is a direct relationship to rpm's to clutch vs hp creating those rpm's????.....for example could you control the power output to the clutch via rpm's?...so as to not over max the clutch?

Like...Find out what were the max rpm's on the old Johnson motors of 40hp that were required to allow the clutch to "open" to put full output to the belt (allow it to drop down to bottom of "v" for full power) and what they said was the max rpm's to the clutch to achieve that result.

Which opens wider from the "Shorter" belt and spring presser and that changes the rpm to the prop. There all on splined shafts they can't slip, the belt can but not the clutches. When its in "Neutral" it is just the belt two "LONG" to engage the sides of the pulleys .

So there Not actually a centrifugal force friction clutch.

There a variable "Step" belt drive like on a drill press only automatic, kinda.

Look at the bottom part of the exploded view and see the clutch assembly

wondering if there is a direct relationship to rpm's to clutch vs hp creating those rpm's????.....for example could you control the power output to the clutch via rpm's?...so as to not over max the clutch?

The VW gets its max HP at around 3000 rpm I could just limit the speed of the motor, BUT I NEED all the HP to spin the prop I have.

Remember: Four boxes keep us free ,the soap box, the ballot box, the jury box, AND the cartridge box

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