중앙데일리

A hamlet rich in history and art

Years ago, Yeongwol County was home to a thriving mining community. What draws visitors today are colorful wall paintings by area residents.

그림옷 입은 동네, 영월
June 01,2011

Moundong, which used to be a coal mining town 20 years ago, has transformed itself today into a small fairy-tale village, painted with colorful fairy-tale characters on its walls. By Kwon Hyeok-jae

Yeongwol, a small county in southern Gangwon, was once one of the most remote regions in the country. It is also at the center of several tragic episodes in Korean history.

During the Joseon Dynasty, when it was only possible to enter and leave the area by boat, King Danjong, dethroned in a coup led by his uncle Sejo, was exiled to Yeongwol and was later killed there at the age of 17.

Today the town, which houses the remains of both King Danjong and renowned Joseon Dynasty poet Kim Sat-gat, has emerged as one of the nation’s most interesting historic sites.

But what draws even more travelers to Yeongwol nowadays are unique neighborhoods that have become famous for wall paintings created by area residents.

Last week, the Joongang Ilbo set out to uncover what truly makes the area so popular among travelers.

The village head’s masterpiece

Until the 1960s and 80s, the mountains of Yeongwol County were rich with coal, which was the main source of income for area residents.

In the center of it all was Moundong Village. The tiny hamlet is located mid-way up Mount Manggyeongdae, which is about 700 meters (2,300 feet) above sea level.

“Moun” means “neighborhood amid the fog.”

Twenty years ago, Moundong Village was a prosperous town with its own theater and a string of high-class restaurants that made it popular with miners and their families. At its peak, the village had a population of 10,000.

But when the mine closed after the Coal Industry Rationalization Act of 1989 was enacted, the village lost the bulk of its young population and was left deserted with a population of fewer than 50 residents.

In recent years however, visitors have come from around the country to see colorful artwork painted by area residents that now adorn the village’s walls.

The paintings were the brainchild of Kim Heung-sik, 56, a resident who headed the village for 20 years.

Since 2006, Kim has tried to revive the village by renovating desolate buildings into museums that display the history of the village.

“My wife, who was a kindergarten teacher then, would draw rough sketches on the walls. The drawings would then be completed by other residents,” said Kim.

Kim’s efforts drew tourists, who had heard of the place from friends and relatives. When Moundong Village was designated as “A Good Village to Live In” by the Ministry of Public Administration and Security in 2008, it brought even more visitors to the area.

Inspired by scenes from children’s books, the paintings on the village walls feature characters from “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs” and “The Ugly Duckling.”

To get there, take Route 31 from Yeongwol-eup, drive 30 minutes further and you will see the tomb of Kim Satgat. The village is opposite the tomb.

Cheongrok Dabang, or Green Coffeehouse, in Yeongwol-eup, is the actual location where the movie “Radio Star” was filmed. They offer moderately priced coffee.

On “Food Street,” residents are the art

The small town near Moundong Village was once a bustling town filled with hungry mine workers who would line up outside the restaurants situated along the town’s main street.

While many of the restaurants disappeared around the time Moundong Village saw its population decline, today the area is experiencing a revival because of a series of wall paintings adorning the restaurant exteriors.

The paintings are unique because they depict the faces of area residents.

The wall of the restaurant Mirak Town Hall, which is located at the entrance of what has come to be known as “Food Street,” is decorated with paintings of owners Park Gil-sun, 80, and her daughter-in-law Kang Ae-ja, 56.

Adjacent to the paintings is a bronze statue of Park Yeong-sook, 60, who can usually be spotted taking her grandson to school every morning.

One of the biggest attractions for tourists are the large paintings of actors Park Joong-hoon and Ahn Sung-ki on the walls of the Yeongwol Mansion apartment building.

The two actors starred in the box-office hit “Radio Star,” which follows the story of a washed-up rock star and his devoted manager in 2006.

Another popular place nearby is Cheongrok Dabang (coffeehouse), frequented by Park and Ahn in the movie.

Also featured in the film is Gom Laundry, which has been in the same location on “Food Street” for 47 years.

Ironically, however, the rural village has never had its own theater because of its decreasing population.

“I have to go all the way out to Jecheon to watch a movie,” said Kim Kyeong-ae, 51, the owner of Cheongrok Dabang.

The situation is even more extreme for Uhm Ki-joon, 74, a native of Moundong Village and the owner of Gom Laundry.

“I have never watched a single movie in my entire life,” Uhm said.

“Food Street” is located in Yeongwol-eup, near Gwanpongheon, a historic site where King Danjong is said to have lived. Cheongrok Dabang is located 30 meters from Gwanpongheon and “Food Street” is located 30 meters from Cheongrok Dabang.

For more information, call the Yeongwol-gun Culture and Tourism Department: (033) 370-2531 or visit www.eng.yw.go.kr.

Left: Gom Laundry, which was also featured in “Radio Star.”Right: The pine forest surrounding Jangneung, the tomb of King Danjong By Kwon Hyeok-jae

Vestiges of a young king

Located on the upper side of the Namhan River in Yeongwol County, Changryeongpo is a valuable national historic site.

Surrounded by water on three sides and otherwise blocked by rugged mountains, Changryeongpo, it is best known as the place of exile for the ill-fated young King Danjong (1441-1457) after he was overthrown by his own uncle.

Changryeongpo is also famous for its lush pine forest of more than 700 ancient pine trees. The exiled king is said to have spent the last years of his life here.

King Danjong was said to have been fond of sitting in the two large branches of a 30-meter-tall, 600-year-old pine tree that has since been christened Gwaneumsong, which roughly translates to “pine tree that saw and heard the aggrieved monarch and his laments.”

The king was also said to have created Manghyang Pagoda. Located at the summit of a rock cliff between Yugyukbong and Nosandae Peak on Mount Nosandae. It is said the king made the pagoda to express his inconsolable longing for Hanyang (present-day Seoul) and his queen consort Song, whom he had left behind there.

Considering the tragic history of the place, historical records say that during the colonial period, the Japanese could not even cut down the pine trees of Changryeongpo out of respect for the young king and bowed their heads whenever they passed by the area.

There are other historical sites related to King Danjong near Changryeongpo, including Jangneung, Danjong’s tomb, which is Historical Site No. 196.

Another intriguing fact about the pine trees around Jangneung is that all of the branches are turned toward the grave site.

The people of Yeongwol believe that the trees are bowing to pay their respects to the young king.

Admission to Changryeongpo is 2,000 won ($1.85) for adults and 1,200 won for minors.

To get there, take the bus to Yeongwol Terminal from Express Bus Terminal. The bus runs four times from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. Upon arriving at Yeongwol Terminal take the bus headed for Cheongnyeongpo or take a taxi, which takes about five or 10 minutes.