More and more California wineries have upscale cabernet sauvignon priced at $100 or more per bottle. Louis M. Martini suggests that you drink their $17 version instead and enjoy the savings.

It might not always pass for a $100 wine, but Louis M. Martini 2007 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon offers plenty of drinking pleasure.

The wine is elegant and balanced, with complex layers of blackberry and red cherry flavor. There is a noticeable herbal quality as well as hints of vanilla and chocolate.

Despite the wine's complexity, it has a silky smooth mouth-feel that makes it easy to drink. It is definitely a "food wine" with dusty tannins that make it a natural match for red meat.

I expected to enjoy this wine, since Louis M. Martini is known for outstanding cabernet sauvignon.

Three generations of winemakers have developed the winery's reputation. Louis M. Martini founded the winery in 1933, son Louis P. Martini took over winemaking duties in 1954, and grandson Mike Martini became winemaker in 1977.

In addition to the widely available Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery produces more exclusive bottlings. These include versions from the Napa Valley ($27) and Alexander Valley ($35), and a single-vineyard offering from Sonoma's Monte Rosso Vineyard ($85).