Mount Shasta Avalanche and Climbing Information

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Wintun Glacier

Most climbers only experience the north corner of the Wintun snowfield, above the glacier proper, while on the Hotlum/Wintun route. The Wintun Glacier has a lot more to offer the experienced mountaineer. Getting onto the glacier can be tricky as the mixed snow and loose scree can be unstable. The south side of the glaciers main body is constricted by the Wintun Ridge. The resulting jumble of seracs and crevasses is an alpinist’s jungle gym. This ice fall opens to the broad expanse of the upper glacier and snowfields above. A steadily angled slope continues up to the summit plateau where the climber can circle clockwise around the summit pinnacle to reach the top. Late season (fall) offers great ice in the ice fall and onto Wintun Ridge. It's worth a couple of days to explore.