Whiting: Complete guide to summiting Saddleback

Dec. 17, 2012

Updated Aug. 21, 2013 1:17 p.m.

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Saddleback Mountain, at 5,687 feet above sea level, is only 1,000 feet lower than the highest mountain east of the Mississippi River. Reaching the summit is on many bucket lists. This shows the mountain lightly dusted with snow after a storm a few years ago. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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A runner tackles the Holy Jim Trail leading to Santiago Peak. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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A vehicle gets stuck trying a shortcut on the Main Divide Road. This area is where the Upper Holy Jim Trail ends. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Barry Williams of Laguna Niguel checks out the view toward the south high on Saddleback Mountain. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Forests of manzenita are just one of the treats hiking Saddleback Mountain. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Eagle Scout Christopher Raus put up a series of viewing tubes at the summit of Santiago Peak. Sadly, some have been damaged. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Barry Williams of Laguna Niguel takes a photo near Santiiago Peak with antennas in the background. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Clouds move in quickly high on Saddleback Mountain. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Saddleback Mountain, at 5,687 feet above sea level, is only 1,000 feet lower than the highest mountain east of the Mississippi River. Reaching the summit is on many bucket lists. This shows the mountain lightly dusted with snow after a storm a few years ago. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Adventure Passes are required to park at the National Forest's lot for the Holy Jim Trail. They are $5 daily, $30 for an annual and are available at most stores that sell outdoor goods. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

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Trabuco Creek Road is rugged with several mild stream crossings. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Saddleback Mountain, at 5,687 feet above sea level, is only 1,000 feet lower than the highest mountain east of the Mississippi River. Reaching the summit is on many bucket lists. This shows the mountain lightly dusted with snow after a storm a few years ago. DAVID WHITING, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Holy Jim Trail

Reaching the top of something, be it rock n' roll or a mountain, seems to be in our DNA.

When The Beatles battled rejection in their early days, John Lennon pumped up the Fab Four by asking, "Where are we going fellas?"

The chorus: "To the toppermost of the poppermost."

Saddleback Mountain isn't the pop charts. But it is – by far – the toppermost thing in Orange County.

Every once in awhile, often around the new year, many of us gaze up at the summit of Santiago Peak, 5,687 feet above the ocean, and think this is the time to knock the beast off our bucket list.

One friend has an annual tradition of hiking to the summit with his daughters on New Year's Day. I won't recommend the trek after a night of revelry. But I do have some recommendations.

The first is to take the shortest hiking route to the summit – the Holy Jim Trail:

GETTING READY

Big goal: Yes, this is a worthy mountain. Consider this: The highest mountain east of the Mississippi River, Mount Mitchell, is 6,684 feet – only 1,000 feet higher than Saddleback.

Fitness: This can be a slow enjoyable hike with friends and family. But some fitness is required.

Conditioning: As a warm-up or to get in condition, try hiking Harding Trail at the end of Modjeska Canyon. Hike to Laurel Springs, about nine miles round-trip. That's a little more than half what it takes to tackle Santiago Peak. Plan for about four to five hours.

Santiago Peak: Round trip it's about 16 miles with 3,947 feet of gain.

How long: Varies on conditioning and goals. Runners can blast this in five hours or less. Hikers should plan on about eight to nine hours.

Weather: Check and double-check weather conditions. During a storm, it can be 30 degrees colder at the summit with wind chill. It can snow or hail. The trail can disappear. Be sure you have a clear day.

Clothing: Keep in mind it generally gets colder and windier the higher you go. In winter, dress in layers. Pack a wind-resistant jacket, gloves and beanie. Hiking boots or sneakers are fine. A change of socks can be nice. Comfort is key.

Food, drink: Snacks and lunch for the summit; minimum six liters of water per person. Hydrating is critical.

Fun tip: Bring a small mirror to signal friends when you're at the top.

Time to start: I'm not a big fan of early starts, but they make sense. Time it so you're on Trabuco Creek Road (see directions) by sunrise which means you'll start hiking about 7:30 a.m. and be home by dinner.

Tip: The sun sets early in winter. Avoid getting caught out in the dark. For backup, bring headlamps or flashlights.

Adventure Pass: You'll need an Adventure Pass to park in the National Forest. They are available at the grocery store north of the bridge and at most sporting goods stores; $5 daily; $30 annual.

Vehicle provisions: Store something to drink in your vehicle for your return. The drive out is a long one, especially when you're thirsty.

TRAILHEAD DIRECTIONS

Directions: Drive Trabuco Canyon Road to where a small bridge crosses Trabuco Creek. Just south of the bridge, there's a dirt parking lot followed by a dirt road. That is Trabuco Creek Road.

Driving conditions: Thanks to the county, the first 2.5 miles of the 4.5-mile dirt road is rough but easily passable. Once the road is on National Forest land, however, it's exceptionally rugged.

Tips: Expect to drive through low-flowing streams and drive slowly to avoid bottoming out your vehicle. This portion can easily take 30 minutes.

Vehicle: It needn't be a four-wheel drive, but a high-clearance vehicle is recommended.

Parking: Just past the volunteer fire station on the left, there is a large lot with portable bathrooms.

Next: Hike the dirt road to the left past a series of cabins until you see the Holy Jim Trail sign.

TRAIL'S FIRST LEG

Stream crossings: There are several. Generally, the water is shallow, but the going can be slippery. A hard-core athlete I know broke her arm in a fall. Be careful.

Tip: Use trekking poles or a walking stick for balance.

Poison oak: Our three-leaved enemy often has a red hue in winter, green in summer. It's common in Orange County near streams. Don't touch.

Dams: A series of small dams were built in the 1920s and '30s. Stop and check them out for the exact dates.

Holy Jim Falls: If you haven't seen them before, the falls are modest but fun. It's a short detour on the right just after a steep stream bank and a sign before a series of switchbacks.

SECOND LEG

Switchbacks: Enjoy the views as you ascend and appreciate rather than hate the switchbacks.

Views: The views of unfolding canyons is amazing. Yes, this really is Orange County.

Flora: Manzanita, chaparral, oak, pine.

Rest: There are plenty of spots with views. Take your time and appreciate the natural world.

Steep: The trail drops and gets really steep just before the Main Divide.

THIRD LEG

Turn around? This is a good time to assess how you feel, how much water you have, the weather and the time. If you're nearing exhaustion, turn around. The mountain will always be there.

Main Divide Road: You have a choice. Hike up the Main Divide to the summit. Or take better yet...

Upper Holy Jim Trail: This my favorite trail in Orange County with spectacular views from above 4,000 feet. It's a bit rocky, but you can see a series of lakes, including Elsinore, and the two highest mountains in Southern California, San Jacinto and San Gorgonio.

Plus, there is a twisted pine that offers a perfect bench (check for sap). I'll mention there are no vehicles here as there are on the Main Divide, and this may be shorter than the road.

For the trailhead, head right, south – downhill – about 75 yards. On your left, you'll see a well-groomed trailhead and a sign. (The trailhead used to be behind a concrete block, but it's changed.)

Main Divide: Eventually, the trail connects to the Main Divide Road at a hairpin turn. Now, it's just a slog to the summit.

SUMMIT TIPS

Mess: Yes, the summit is a confusing mess of short roads, trails, bunkers, satellite dishes, towers, antennas. Just keep heading up. There is no right or wrong way. As you near the summit, turn around to get your bearings for your return.

Marker: The summit marker is on the east side of the main road. It's on a dirt knoll, the high point.

Best view: Head south toward the ocean where you get away from the man-made jungle of concrete and metal. Check out the Eagle Scout sighting tubes. Have lunch.

Orange County unfolding like a real-life Google Earth is an unbeatable treat. Pick out the Great Park's orange balloon, the Tustin blimp hangers...

If this were a regular column, it would end here. But you need to get down.

RETURN

Mess: Remember that confusing array? After 100 yards, you will see two Main Divide Roads forking apart. The one on the left, as you are facing down, quickly turns and heads northwest. The one on the right heads southeast. That will take you home.

Footing: Going down can be tougher than going up. You're tired and your leg muscles take a beating fighting gravity. Take it easy. And watch your footing on loose rocks, especially the ones the size of marbles. If you didn't bring trekking poles, you may wish you did.

Is going down longer? You will wonder that, particularly the final several miles. Truth be told, forest elves stretch out trails so we don't come back.

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