Throwback restaurants

As our waitress approaches, we set down our brandy old-fashioneds and push aside our relish tray. The plates she brings celebrate old-school big eating: a porterhouse that hangs over the rim, a casserole-size dish of potatoes topped with bubbling cheddar, a tower of crispy fried fish and enough iceberg lettuce salad to feed a small wedding party.

Our first thought, of course, is whoa. Who eats like this anymore? Um—-we do, every time we go to a supper club, and Beloit, Wisconsin (50 miles southeast of Madison), has a bevy of them. The hearty portions, paper menus and friendly owners make these throwback, dinner-only restaurants legendary.

Pictured: The Key lime 615-tini is a big seller at The 615 Club in Beloit.

Old-school dining

The small-town (and North Woods) clubs became popular in the Midwest after Prohibition, when roadhouses could get a liquor license if more than half their business consisted of food sales. In Beloit, these family-owned spots continue to thrive, with individual spins on the concept.

The dark wood paneling and old-school menus at Benedetti's Supper Club convey a homey, 1960s restaurant feel. The 615 Club operates out of an early-20th-century house, with just 11 tables and leather club chairs on wheels. At The Butterfly Club, lounge singer Mike Williamson belts out Dean Martin's "Everybody Loves Somebody" and stops to kiss ladies' hands between verses.

Even if you are so full you can't eat another bite, don't leave without indulging in a Grasshopper (creme de menthe and vanilla ice cream) or Pink Squirrel (creme de almond and creme de cacao with ice cream). Booze mixed with ice cream--after a steak dinner. We love ya, Wisconsin.

Pictured: Onion rings and sauteed mushrooms top a ribeye steak (served with a maraschino-topped old-fashioned) at Benedetti's Supper Club.

The Butterfly Club

Located on the outskirts of town, this club has a banquet hall feel, with a giant, curving bar in the lounge and a large outdoor deck with views of the rolling Wisconsin landscape. Couples of all ages dance to lounge singer Mike Williamson and his campy band. (608) 362-8577; butterflyclub.us