This year was our 8th visit to KTP and 2nd time in the summer. We were hoping to experience some of the Kgalagadi moods in the summer and seeing summer visitors and the new animal life arriving during the first rains. The birds stayed away, but we were lucky with the first rain.

Our visit concentrated mostly around the Nossob River and included the Nossob 4x4 Ecotrail. The itinerary was as follows:

We left Mpumalanga on the 25th Nov in the afternoon and stayed over at Kuruman for the night. The next mornings we started early to avoid the stop and goes, which went smoothly with the last one just before the turn off the Sishen.

We arrived at the park just before noon and booked in at Twee Rivieren. After nearly losing our off-road caravan down the slope at the chalet above the campsite we unpacked and started to climatise a bit.

Our afternoon drive revealed mostly birds, but also a great cat sighting. \O/

First sighting of a Southern Pale chanting Goshawk near Samevloeing.

Whats down there said the PCG?

Better have a look!

Secretarybird

Sighting a cheetah with 3 cubs at a kill near Kij-Kij

Juvenile Martial Eagle between Rooiputs and Leeuwdril

Last edited by Son godin on Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

We were on our way to Nossob to join up with the other forumites before the start of the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail. Our route followed the Auob until the south dune route where we connected to the Nossob road at Kij-Kij.

The morning started off with springbok and wildebeest at Houmoed and 2 cheetahs under a tree near Kamfersbooms. Even although they were very close to the road, the grass was just too high to get a great pic of the two flat cats.

Our first sighting of Verreaux's Eagle owls was at Munro, but no luck spotting the leopard.

Along the dunes we spotted gemsbok and steenbok.

Just after Kij-Kij water hole a few lions were sleeping under a tree not too far from where we spotted the cheetah family the previous day.

While stretching legs at Melkvlei SO captured a few reptiles on camera.

We did not spot much there after and only got a few pics during the afternoon drive around Marie's draai. Marie's draai did not deliver much and had to perform the next day to avoid a yellow card. At least in terms of birding we got a few good ones.

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Last edited by Son godin on Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Today was one of the many days when we waked up at 5 am when the generated started at Nossob. After a quick cup of coffee we went to pic up our permit to head south to Marie's draai.

Bush Baptist, Barcud, BIL and Right Said was not too far behind us holding up the traffic behind us with bird watching.

First water hole was Rooikop and guess what were waiting there? Lions playing around under moms watchful eyes. Real naughty ones if you can remember about Barcud/BB trip report. Checking tyre pressure and doing some plumbing as well.

We left them playing at the dam before they checked our tyre pressure before the 4x4 trip. Well at least today Marie did not get the yellow card and even gave us a great sighting of kudu drinking O_ (KNP fans this is not a usuall sighting for KTP)

And the usual BBJ stood close by watching the kudu.

The morning drive was short so that we could be back to pack up and ready to meet all for the 4x4 trip at 9 am. On the way back another stop at the lions still fooling around.

No where's that ball?

OK Kids you can stop that game we are leaving. And don't talk back just because you got a beard already.

We finished the packing up our tent just before 9 am and joined the others at the gate for the start of the the 4x4 trip. The other forumites on the trip was Scouter and family, Weskusklong (video operator), Switchback, Jo and dad, Bush Baptist, Barcud, Right Said, Bill (in the red fire engine) and the Flintstones. The first part of the trip was driving north up to Polentswa where we turned left on to the dune route and where the trail actually starts. The dune route up to Rosyntjiebos camp is about 50 km with one difficult dune that challenged our guide a bit.

Some sightings along the road were steenbok, gemsbok and wildebeest after leaving Nossob. The lion under a tree near Kwang did not get much attention from anyone including SO.

Birding was a bit quiet, but at least we got a Kori bustard and Hamerkop.

The landscapes was great and many more will follow. We were lucky to experience rain and thunderstorms in KTP, which gave fantastic background for landscape shots.

Our first camp was at Swartbas not too far from Nossob. The facilities are very basic and you need to be self-sufficient bringing along your own tent, wood, water and shower bucket/bag. November is not the ideal time to go due to the heat and long day light time, which means the best times for me was at the camp from late afternoon to early morning. The distances are very short leaving you with lots of time to pitch camp and breaks along the road, but unfortunately in the heat trying to find some shade moving along as the sun moves over.

The camps are unfenced, but we were lucky not to encounter any predators and slept safe in our ground tents. Most made used of ground tents and the roof-top tents were the odd one. The only visitors we had were scorpions, which we found when we packed up the tent.

Just after we left Swartbas camp the guide showed us the the camp area used by hikers on the !Xerry Wilderness Trail

!Xerry Wilderness Trail Named after the diminutive steenbok which frequents the area, the !Xerry Wilderness Trail is a 2 day, 2 night self-catering overnight trail, departing from Nossob.

The participants board a Land Rover that takes them to their base camp, from which they will depart on morning and afternoon walks in the veld, accompanied by experienced guides. The afternoon is spent in the camp relaxing and sharing the outdoor experience.

The base camp is very rustic, and consists of an enclosed boma, and has a long drop, braai & preparation area and bush shower with shower bag – everything else needs to be provided by the tourists.

•The trail departs from Nossob at 11:30 on Wednesdays, and returns to Nossob at 12:00 on Fridays.•It departs every Wednesday from 1 April to 31 October. Due to the summer heat, the trail is closed from 1 November until 31 March. The trail caters for a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 8 persons; no-one under the age of 16 is allowed on the trail. Information provided by Sanparks

After leaving the !Xerry camp two spotted eagle owls in the tree. The one flew away while one remained in the tree.

Our next stop was at Eileen pan, nearly the size of Bitterpan where we found leopard spoor. And then "die manne" battled it out trying to conqueror a dune, named Bertha. Isuzu and Landcruiser won, but the Landy was defeated. Our Pathfinder follows the straight path and avoided the detour over a dune.

We reached the 2nd night's camp early in the afternoon and parked in the shade waiting until its cooler to the pitch the tents.

Sky we also get those red sunset on the Highveld but not close as beautiful as that of the Kgalagadi.

30 November 2011 (Rosyntjiebos to Witgat)

Sunset at Rosyntjiebos

During the night we had a great thunderstorm cooling down the Kgalagadi resulting in a few wet tents, but not to bad.

Sunrise the next morning after the storm at Rosyntjiebos

LO spotted these beetles in the camp, but I am not sure of the identity. It does not look exactly like the oogpisters you will find in KTP.

Along the dunes we frequently spotted baby gemsbok, something you do not really see that often along the river roads. They nearly look like Roan antelope. Gemsbok hide the calfs after birth for 6 weeks in the dunes

Red Hartebeest were also seen along the route. They are not dependent on water and can run for long distances and will even chase a cheetah away.

And although the birding was not that good (or is it just us not stopping enough ) we saw this lovely swallow-tailed bee-eater.

Steenbok preferes the dune area and totally independant of water. The large ears ensure that they can hear predators in time and the short hair allow them to cool down quickly after a chase.

Ground Agama male. The females head is normally brown, but can change colour to mimic as a male for defence when she is ready to lay eggs.

On the third day we had the luxury of a "swimming pool" at a water hole near Witgat camp.

After the delightful swim or shower we set-up camp and view the dunes, water hole and rainbow from the camp.

Late afternoon another storm started to brew resulted in a very windy evening and unfortunately no camp fire tonight. In winding conditions one need to be cautious not to start a veld fire by accident, specially if water is scarce.

Thanks for your interest in my KTP TR and all the nice compliments on the pics. It's always a pity that one can not visit more often, but luckily there are so many sharing there trips that one can experience KTP even if you not there.

Let me stop talking and let you wait any longer to see the rest.

1 December 2011: Last day on Eco Trail and return to Twee Rivieren

On the last day we started early so that we could get back to Twee Rivieren not too late in the afternoon.

Inspection of the waterhole only revealed spoor from jackal and none of the cat species. After the rain the dune where very easy to ride and the day was much cooler than before.

Our first stop was at the spoor of a brown hyaena. Unfortunately the hyaena must have heard the vehicles and left the path and disappeared over the dunes. Our guide showed as the white paste secretions on the grass, which is the best clue to identify a brown hyaenas spoor.

Near the end of the trail we spotted some gemsbok.

The trail finish near Kij-Kij water hole, but today we were not lucky to spot the cheetahs again or any lions. After Rooiputs we saw a familiar face again - the same juv. Martial Eagle.

The rest of the group spotted lions about 200m from camp, but we were too focussed to get to our off-road caravan, which we left during the trip at Twee Rivieren that we did not spot them except a gemsbok carcass.

The next two days we camped at Twee Rivieren before returning back to Nossob.

The afternoon revealed a kill of another kind and again we missed the lions feeding on the carcass. We left maybe 20 min before the lions moved in and drove past without spotting them. Near Leeudril we had sightings of a leopard tortoise and a PCG feeding on a squirrel road kill. This is the first time we saw road kill in KTP and quite upsetting that people drive too fast and do not watch out for the smaller creatures in the park. Strangely there is a sign to say slow down showing a tortoise crossing, but that do not help much.

Ok this is the closest we got to a leopard

PCG at a squirrel road kill.

Before reaching Rooiputs we found a raptor in a tree at a cul-de-sac. I am not sure about the bird identification, because the eye and beak colour is confusing. I thought about a juv Pale Chanting Goshawk, but there is no orange-yellow in the beak. The a buzzard, but the eyes are yellow. Maybe a snake eagle. What ever the name this bird attacked a dove and we saw a kill for the day.

Nearly back at camp we finally found the infamous lions sleeping near the water hole closest to the gate.z0z

Enjoyed reading this very much Son Godin. Interesting to see photos taken along the ecotrail. I can imagine it was hot out there...very hot !!!!I do think your mystery bird is that of a juvenile PCG..light can play havoc with the colours of beaks etc. On the one photo the legs definitely look more orange than yellow but on the other photo the legs look yellowish. The colouration and markings as well as the eye definitely point to juvie PCG...( in my opinion )The sunsets looked amazing!Thanks for sharing !

We stayed at Twee Rivieren until the the Saturday before departing for Nossob. The plans were actually to stay at Kieliekrankie on the 3rd, but due to fact that you not allowed more than two people in one cabin we had to forfeit our booking. Previously my son stayed with us at Kieliekrankie and even for the fact that he is 12 years old we could not take up a unit. I know we only booked for one unit, but who will stay in the other if we did book for 2 units.

We were lucky again to see lions near Twee Rivieren on Friday and spotted hyaenas at Kamfersboom.

Our morning drive was along the Auob river until Auchterlonie and back.

Gewone Dikkop that got Spotted thick-knees in translation.

Lanner Falcon

Kori Bustard drinking

Pygmy falcons

Steenbokkie

Gemsbok battle at Houmoed

Lioness resting at Samevloeing

The afternoon took us to Rooiputs where we found a herd of Springbok in the shade with babies

Springbokkie hiding near Rooiputs

Secretary bird in flight at Rooiputs waterhole

Tawny coming in for a drink at Rooiputs

Earlier the morning we saw hyaenas at Kamfersboom and decided to head in that direction again in the afternoon finding them cooling down in the water hole

Saturday: 3 December 2011 (Twee Rivieren and en route to Nossob)

You won't believe me, but on the 3rd Dec the lions were still feeding on the carcass near Twee Rivieren. They were not a noisy bunch and at night we did not hear them roaring for long times.

You want a piece!! Come and get it then. -O-

Don't worry about her there is still some horns left.

And skin mmmmm.

They won't get anything.

Ok Lets stop argueing and enjoy the rest.

After saying good-bye to the TR lions we headed for Nossob via the upper dune road. Just before the lower or southern dune road an African Wild Cat crossed the road, but was too embarresed being exposed and returned back to a small bush where we caught it in the act.

Near Kamqua we came to a stop near - so whats under that tree?

Lions again, but doing what they do best and thats sleeping.

The good rain fall during the past week resulted a large pools of water near waterholes. We spotted this black headed heron at Vaalpan enjoying the water.

The dune road was quiet as normal during midday, but at least we spotted a juv bateleur in flight

We had some interesting weather during our stay and experienced a grey Kalahari veld turning green after the first rain. Glad you still enjoy and hold on lots more to come; Xmas is still 326 days away.

5 December 2011: Grootkolk (PRWIN) and Nossob (Son godin and LO)Our bookings really became complicated when we could not take my son along to Grootkolk as a 3rd person, but we decided not to miss out and the party had to split up. SO helped us set up camp at Nossob and around 11 am set off to Grootkolk. Some of the pics are just as for you only pictures to me and no memories, but only

Well at least SO had a wonderfull break from us two thats just nagging about the heat. For a change we were stranded without a car and had time to took pics inside the camp.

SO had some lovely sightings on his way to Grootkolk.

Lion somewhere next to the road under a tree north of Nossob - guy on tractor gave SO direction to lion in bush.

After the rain more Red Hartebeest came down to the river.

Lappet face Vulture at a lion kill north of Grootkolk

Bat-eared foxes were spotted in the same area

More vultures further on towards Unions End

SO spotted a brown hyeana and noticed a jackal barking exitedly at something? Out came the bino and a pic was taken of the best leopard sighting for this holiday.

Hope you can see the legs and eyes staring at you. Good advice: never get out of your car unless you sure the dead tree is not a hiding place of a leopard.

On the way back to Grootkolk, about 2km north of the turn-off jackals were playing near a den

Sightings near Nossob and in the camp:

View from Nossob hide

The next morning SO could not wait to get back to camp to his lovely Son godin and LO, but first a road block stopped him near Lijersdraai picnic site.

Thanks for the compliments and glad that you have the time to join this trip.

Let me continue then.

6 December 2011: Nossob camp (PRWIN) and Grootkolk (Son godin and LO)

After his night at Grootkolk SO return back to Nossob to give us a chance to experience the Grootkolk magic. We stayed in tent number 2 opposite the water hole.

On his way back SO spotted all the lions and did not leave much for us.

Lucky for him the toilets were out of order at Lijersdraai picnic site and he did not need to get out being watch by about 8 - 10 lions.

After the road block of lions more red hartebeest were seen. When we got to Nossob on the 26 Nov we did not see any hartebeest, but after the first rains more moved towards the Nossob river bed together with blue wildebeest and springbok.

While waiting in camp my LO took some more shots of the squirrels eating their favourite food.

We left SO around 12 pm after struggle to fix the tyre. Some how a nail was stucked right through the tyre and it was deflating slowly. Luckily the puncture repair kit was in the car and I could leave for Grootkolk. I was a bit worried being on my own with a tyre that was fixed 10 min ago and took a slow drive stopping at each waterhole hanging out of the window to check the tyre.

At the camp we spotted kudu drinking water at the waterhole (lion not too far off).

After unpacking Oliver came to check if we're OK. He was busy fixing the pump and not at his usual base when we arrived. When asking whats around he pointed to a far off tree where a lion was sleeping. One could not see much, but I decided to keep an eye on the tree. Around 4 pm there was some movement from the lion and then he stood up and walked to the waterhole to drink. It was very exciting and scary watching this large Kalahari male lion not too far off with only a small fence between you and him.

We followed the lion in the car after he walked past the tents. He did not walk too far and stopped close to the solar panel and pump station lying down for a longer rest until the evening. Luckily the maintenance guys finished their work and were off to Nossob again.

Gemsbok near Geinab

Since our first visit to KTP in 1998 I haven't been to Unions End and decided to drive up there for the afternoon. The place was desolated late in the afternoon and no other cars on the road. Here some pics of us at Unions End.

During the night the whole of Kgalagadi had a heavy rain storm and large areas the road were covered under water. The road from Twee Rivieren to Nossob was closed for normal sedans and even some 4x4's got stuck.

We drove out early towards Union End but did not see much of the predators and our male lion of the previous day before disappeared. Along the way we passed large herds of wet springbok and red hartebeest.

The sun came out resulting in a lovely rainbow over the Nossob river.

I spotted some bat eared foxes near Kannagauss, but LO was asleep and I just drove on. At Kannagauss a large herd of red hartbeest and gemsbok were drinking water and I got LO's attention again.

Further down the road was a large pool of water where two juvinile pale chanting goshawks were taking a bath.

Then it was some action time from the hartebeest running away.

Back at camp we decided to return to Nossob even though we had another night to stay. SO was alone at Nossob and we thought of surprising him.

Springbok near Nossob camp enjoying the abundance of water and fresh grass shoots

7 December continued: Nossob camp and Marie's draai:

After giving SO a surprise a few km north of Nossob we returned to camp. LO urgently need to get too camp already from Bedinkt and the sightings where scarce and later no caution going through the pools. I forgot to close my window after chatting to SO and ended up with mud in the car when we raced through the last two pools before camp. (still less than 50km/h)

In the afternoon we took a drive to Marie's to find a wonderland of water and green grass. Some more surprises were on the way at Maries, which turned out to be a dam and not a waterhole anymore.

This morning we took another drive out to Cubitje Quap and Kwang. About 13 km from camp we saw 4 lions patrolling the river bed towards Kwang. The sighting was not to close and it was the best to view the cats with a binocular. Only a few pics were taken with the best one below.

The usual suspects were seen near along the Nossob river bed.

Ostriches enjoying a swim.

Early morning parade

On the 9th we did Marie's loop and headed further south. Our luck was in when we got to Kaspersdraai, but also slightly out with 5 minutes. A lioness and small cubs just finished drinking at Kaspersdraai and headed back home to the den.

The little ones were very tiny and one had a bad injury on the side. They ran ahead of mommy and crossed the road.

I'll prefer any cub sighting above a kill. They are so adorable, specially these guys we saw at Kaspersdraai. They were taking the lead walking across the road with mum behind. Its just a pity the cutie pies did not want to play a lot. Maybe they wanted milk instead of water. The sighting was very short and the youngsters quickly disappered towards the dunes out of sight together with mom.

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Further down the road we spotted our first Ludwig Bustard; a first time that I spotted one ( just sorry it was too far off for a great pic )

We were hoping to see the cubs again the next day because they are so small, but had no luck at all. A mating pair of lions were seen about 5 km south the next day, but only visible by using a binoculars. Maybe the mother was hiding the cubs from the larger males and therefore we did not see them again.

During the afternoon drive we did not see a lots and even on the 10th good sightings were scarce. We were thinking of packing up and change our camping for Mata-Mata, but luckily stayed on until the last day.

Young Red Hartbeest with mother

Jackal chewing on a catch.

Kalahari Scrub-Robin

Mom and baby Squirrels at Bedinkt

Kids of the Kalahari.

11 December 2011: Nossob to Polentswa morning drive

Spotted -eagle Owl between Cubitje Quap and Kwang seen early in the morning

After the rains more Blue Wildebeest came to feed on the fresh grass shoots along the Nossob river

Hyaenas sleeping in the morning sun near Bedinkt

The previous day some-one saw lions near Lijgersdraai again according to the sightings board. We were hoping to see them again and I was driving ~ 40-50 km/h not to get there too late.

Just after Langklaas SO shouted "Lion ahead and you passed one !!!" The lion was right next to the road and I missing it completely and had to reverse back. He was waiting for his brother who came marching down the road.

The two joined each other and we followed them for a short distance down the road south.

They sat down and started behaving like herbivores - eating grass on the side of the road. Not worrying much about us not more than 2 meters away. My LO was the closest and complaint that he could not get a full pic. Only the mouth or eyes. After some zoom out instructions he got it right.