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Infrared images take some extra work once you get them onto your computer. The first thing you'll need to do is color-balance the image; it will often start out looking very red. The simplest way to do that is with the Convert to Black and White command in Photoshop or Photoshop Elements. (While it's possible to create "false color" infrared, the overwhelming majority of infrared photography goes for a classic black-and-white look.) You can adjust how the colors are mixed, using the sliders, until you get your image looking the way you want.

Infrared images also tend to look a little flat. Simply adding a Levels adjustment layer and moving the Black Point and White Point sliders in toward the image data on the histogram will help your image pop. Finally, your image is also likely to appear a little blurred. There are a few reasons this tends to happen. First, the focusing mechanism used to capture visible-light images isn't entirely suitable for capturing images in the near infrared spectrum, so it is easy to have the focus slightly off. Using a smaller aperture helps with this, of course. Also, because the light coming into the camera is way off the red end of the spectrum, your green and particularly blue pixels aren't receiving much light, so the image needs to be interpolated mostly from the red pixels. As a result it has a bit less detail than a visible-light image and can appear to be slightly blurry.

You can use the Auto Sharpen command in Elements or an equivalent sharpening command in other image-editing software to fix that. From here you can tweak the image to suit your tastesin the sample landscape image I painted out the cars and used Nik Software's Color Efex to add a photo print look using the Photo Stylize filter and a fancy edge with the Vignette filterbut even without any fancy effects your image is ready to go.