looks cute board. But for better message delivery reliability and range, you could improve antenna placement (for better rf radiation there should not be any routes, metal etc under antenna) + more gnd plane, else you'll get shorter range than you should expect.

@openhardware-io
Maybe, but no problem noticed, this device is powered by battery, not by pulse power supply. There's no PWM, no induction. Work perfectly. There are no lines behind the transmitting antenna

@berkseo
my comments were not about pulse power, but about rf radiation, gnd counterpoise size regarding monopole (on batt, less gnd = less range & possible freq detuning), meandered antenna prone to detuning.. (and on pic looks like you have a route behind it).
In some usecase (more range needed, or when board is enclosed etc), these details, combined, could create retransmission for example and more power used etc.
Well, I bet you could get better range if you tested different design vs range. But, no matter, great if it's working well enough for you. That's most important point
Keep the good work!

@scalz
Partially agree. Ideally, the ground distance from the antenna should be > 30mm. This condition is not feasible :). In my case, as far as possible... Generally a big issue to the most printed antenna. How well these printed antennas are calculated on all these radio modules :)). But this already the twists and turns... However, thanks for the advice, not in my rules to give up reasonable, kind and free advice

The second revision of the pcb. Added mounting holes for mounting to the device body. Added cutouts for the buttons. Added temperature barrier for temperature and humidity sensor. The lines are moved as far away from the antenna as possible. The empty areas on the Board are filled and connected to the ground.

Hi, this is a problem, for now, I do it, but I practically have no time for it. But I will definitely make them myself. Maybe I will do them on industrial equipment, if some people like my devices, now they are testing them

@berkseo
Update, the hull prototype is ready. Developed at SOLIDWORKS. It was printed on a 3D printer type SLA. Trial printing on opaque resins has been started. This case cannot be reproduced on the printer type FDM.

One button is reset, the second button is multifunctional. Depends on how many seconds you hold this button. In my program, I use this button to connect via air to other devices and to transfer the device to receive settings (data transmission intervals, led operation and so on). This button is not used in my test sketch

An example of direct connection between devices (without the use of controllers, without changing the SOFTWARE) is my development, which is in the testing stage is the controller of Underfloor heating. This device controls the five contours of the Underfloor heating. Up to 10 such temperature sensors can be connected to this device simply by pressing the connect button. Maximum of two temperature sensors per one relay channel.

Thanks. This is actually my first experience in designing sensor housings. I've never done 3D modeling before. A month and a half ago I started watching a video on YouTube on modeling in SolidWorks. With printing on a 3D printer is also my first experience.

How did you produce such a nice result? The text and buttons are very detailed.
Is it SLA printing?

Yes it is an SLA. One day, watching again another video on YouTube about how people make models of characters on such printers(with high detail), at some point I realized that this technology is very well suited for prototyping cases for miniature devices. It is possible to obtain an almost industrial quality of the final product. ...Then I bought it ...And I did.

These are attempts to repeat the model on the FDM printer(two different people, on two different printers):

Do you solder the components on the PCB by yourself and you launch the whole process in factory? Because soldering such kind of chip ATMEGA328_QFN32 is not that easy or need a microscope i think.

I myself solder pcb. These small 328s are easier and faster to solder than the large 328s. Because you don’t need to solder each contact. Positioning, fixing, heating with a soldering dryer, elimination of excess solder with the help of a soldering iron.