Teleflex Mechanical Steering Tech Reference & FAQ

Do you need more information?

The following section addresses technical questions often asked
about mechanical steering. It is organized by frequency of question.
If you require further assistance, please contact Teleflex Marine
Tech Service as noted below.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Are replacement gears
available for Teleflex helms?

No. Teleflex does not offer repair parts for any
steering helms or cables. All helms and cables must
be replaced as units. If the helm in question is within
our 2-year warranty period, we will authorize a free
re place ment helm (not including labor). At tempt ing to
repair a helm will void the warranty and can lead to
steering failure, which may result in personal injury
and property damage.

2. How do I know which length steering cable I need?

The cable part number and length can usually be
found about 2 feet from the helm connection,
stamped into the plastic conduit (exterior jacket or
casing). If you can't locate/read it, proceed to step a:

a. Is the cable you are replacing rotary (spiral
wrapped black core wire sticks out at helm end
of cable) or rack and pinion (cable has long
metal housing with rack [flat] gear inside)?

For Tilt Tube Mounting, add A, B & C + 6", then round up to the next whole foot. Order that length cable.

For Transom/Splashwell/Stringer Support Mounting, add A, B & C, then subtract 6" and round up to the next whole foot.

Order that length cable.

3. What do I need in order to add another steering station to my boat?

Teleflex Big-T is the only mechanical steering system
with a version designed for dual station boats. This
specialized product cannot be added on to any
existing steering system. SeaStar hydraulic steering
is the preferred choice for dual station boats.

NOTE: Please see the Big-T Dual Station product
pages, earlier in this catalog. The cable for this
system is special-order and non-returnable, so
please take extra care when measuring.

4. I'm replacing a Teleflex rack & pinion cable in a 1985 boat. I ordered an SSC134 "The Rack" cable and it won't connect to the helm. What's
the problem?

Note the old cable's rack housing color. It is probably
black or gray, meaning that the old cable is a "The
Rack (older)" model (1984-2001). If the rack housing
is green, it may be a TR188 model (1975-86). This is
a Teleflex system, but the helm will not bolt up to the
new SSC134 cable. Replace the helm and bezel kit
with 1996-date "The Rack" versions.

NOTE: Please see The Rack Stern Drive product
pages, earlier in this catalog. Replacement
cables only for 1984-2001 Teleflex Rack systems
are available (part number SSC124XX).

5. I just bought a steering kit and I would like to add a friction screw to the system, but none was included with the kit. What should I do?

Friction adjustment is not a standard item in our
steering kits and is not available for Rotary Systems.
If you have installed a non-tilt "Back Mount Rack
Helm," order Friction Kit part number 3953114P.

NOTE: If you have any NFB system (Rack or
Rotary), a friction adjustment device is not
required nor recommended.

6. I just bought a steering kit and I would like the steering shaft to be at an angle to the dash. The bezel kit included in the steering kit only allows a perpendicular mount. Which parts do I need?

The standard Bezel (mount) Kit included with the
steering system allows the helm to be installed at 90°
(perpendicular) to the surface of the dash. Optional
Bezel Kits for Rotary Steering systems provide the
ability to mount the helm at 20° from perpendicular.
The Rack and Pinion system uses "Wedge Kits" that
provide 10° and 20° angles.

For Rotary Steering (Safe-T, NFB Safe-T II or 4.2),
order 20° Bezel Kit part number SB27483P. For Rack
and Pinion Steering (NFB, Non-NFB, and Pro Rack),
order: 10° Wedge Kit part number SB27448P or 20°
Wedge Kit part number SB27449P

7. I need to replace the steering system on my boat, but I looked at the back of the helm and saw it was not made by Teleflex. I want to install a Teleflex system, but how do I know which one I should get?

Generally, replace rotary with rotary, rack & pinion with rack & pinion and hydraulic with hydraulic. Rotary helm gearboxes are round in shape. Rack &
pinion helms are tubular and connect to a long, thin metal rack housing. The following is a brief cross reference for the most popular non-Teleflex systems:

Morse Command 200 Rack: use Teleflex Back Mount Rack for power-assisted or NFB Rack for non-power-assisted.

Morse Command 2 Rotary: use Teleflex HPS or Big-T for power-assisted or NFB Safe-T II or 4.2 for non-power-assisted.

A comprehensive steering interchange listing (with illustrations of helms and cables) for Teleflex, Morse and other brands begins on page
12 of this catalog.

8. I need a link arm to connect the steering cable output ram to the tiller of my outboard. Can I get the link arm from Teleflex?

No. You should obtain this link arm from the engine maker. Link arms vary by engine, and the engine maker offers the correct link arm for your particular brand and model.

9. I would like to upgrade the steering in my boat to Tilt Steering. What steps do I need to take?

First determine the brand of steering in your boat, then whether it is mechanical or hydraulic.

If you do not have Teleflex steering, either:

a. Replace the helm and cable (or hoses and cylinder) with a Teleflex system
or
b. Contact the steering maker for options. Tilt steering is not available for all systems.

If you have Teleflex rotary steering that was made after 1991 or rack steering made after 1996, you probably only need to purchase a Tilt helm and Tilt mechanism.

Determine which kind of Teleflex steering you have,
then refer to the appropriate section of this catalog
for Tilt Dash Module or Tilt Helm part number.

Tilt helms are offered for these Teleflex systems:

Safe-T "QC" (1968-present)

"The Rack" Rack & Pinion (1996-present)

Big-T

NFB (1991-present)

HPS (2000-present)

SeaStar & SeaStar PRO (1991-present)

BayStar (2001-present)

NOTE: Some pre-1991 Hydraulic, pre-1991
Rotary and pre-1996 Rack systems may require
purchase of additional items and/or modification
of the dash. Please see The Tilt Steering product
pages, earlier in this catalog or contact Tech
Support for assistance.

(Tilt helms have a special shaft to engage the Tilt
mechanism; a non-Tilt helm cannot be used.)

10. What size steering wheel should I use?

Teleflex does not make specific recommendations
regarding steering wheel size, except that the wheel
be at or below the maximum wheel diameter noted
for each type of helm and that the wheel is sized/
located so it can be rotated freely by the boat operator
through the entire steering arc with no obstruction or
hindrance to movement. Wheels in the 14" diameter
range are used widely with mechanical steering
systems. Any size wheel may be used so long as the
helm's recommended maximum wheel diameter is not
exceeded and steering effort is acceptable.

An "equidistant-spoke" steering wheel is suggested
for hydraulic steering systems since a certain
amount of oil bypass in the helm will gradually result
in the wheel becoming "not centered" when the
engine/drive/rudder is in the straight ahead position.
Again, please note the maximum wheel diameter
recommended for the helm.

NOTE: For mechanical steering, please note the
maximum wheel diameter listed for each product
earlier in Mechanical Steering section of this
catalog. For Hydraulic systems, maximum wheel
diameter is listed for each helm in the SeaStar/
BayStar/Hynautic Helm Specifications chart in
the Hydraulic Steering Tech Reference section.

11. I have a [model/year] boat and [model/year] engine. How do I hook up my steering cable to the engine?

There are many ways to connect a steering cable to
an engine, drive unit or rudder. For outboards, the
most common connection method is fastening the
steering cable to the engine tilt tube and attaching
a link arm from the engine's "tiller arm" to the
cross-hole in the steering cable's "telescopic ram".
Generally, it is best to replace what was originally
installed with similar components whenever
possible. When that is not feasible in a mechanical
steering installation, consider upgrading to SeaStar.

NOTE: For an overview of the basic types of
steering connections and available components
from Teleflex Marine, please see Steering
Connection Kits Overview and Teleflex Steering
Connection Kits, on previous pages.

12. I just bought a NFB (No-FeedBack) helm and cannot turn the shaft by hand. Why?

Without the steering wheel on the shaft, NFB helms
are very difficult to turn by hand. This reason is the
No-FeedBack clutch is always on "standby" to grip the
helm shaft and hold it steady against torque feedback
from the engine (which can make the steering wheel
turn on non-No-Feedback systems). Once the helm
is mounted in the dash and the steering wheel is
properly attached, you will be able to turn the shaft
easily. Follow the installation instructions completely.

NOTE: An overview of NFB can be found on page 23 in this catalog. Available NFB systems are shown after that.

13. I want to install an autopilot on a boat with cable steering. What do I need?

Teleflex does not make adapters or interface
parts to connect an autopilot to mechanical cable
steering. This is left to the autopilot manufacturers.
We do however strongly recommend that if you are
installing an autopilot, upgrade your mechanical
steering to a SeaStar hydraulic system. SeaStar is
designed to interface with most autopilots and will
give you superior all around performance.

NOTE: Autopilots cannot be used with any type
of mechanical NFB (No FeedBack) steering. In
that case, you MUST upgrade to SeaStar.

14. My steering cable is stiff/ stuck and won't move properly when I turn the wheel. What should I do?

The first step is to isolate the problem component(s)
of the steering system. Several factors can lead to
what feels like a "stiff" or "frozen" steering cable.
If you do not have installation instructions for the
system's cable and helm, contact Teleflex (or other
manufacturer, if appropriate) to obtain them. Also,
have your engine and boat owner's manuals handy.

The following troubleshooting sequence is
suggested, during which the steering wheel
should remain on the helm.

a. Is the steering cable in fact "stiff/frozen"?
Carefully disconnect the steering cable from the
link arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm. (Refer to
installation instructions for that steering system
and boat/engine owner's manual.) From the helm,
attempt to turn the steering wheel in both directions
by hand to ensure that it moves freely through its
prescribed steering arc. Also, check the hardware
that connected the cable to the engine/drive/rudder
for signs of binding, excessive free play, corrosion,
deterioration and/or incorrect assembly.

If everything does move freely and is in good
working order, go to step b.

Steering cables cannot be repaired. If the steering
cable is deteriorated, does not move or operates in
any manner other than correctly, replace it with the
correct one for the helm. If the cable for your helm
is no longer available, replace the helm, bezel and
cable with an appropriate Teleflex steering kit.

If any cable connection part is deteriorated, too
stiff or too loose, replace it with the correct type
of component. Teleflex offers most types of cable
connection hardware, except link arms which
should be obtained from the engine manufacturer.
Note that locking fasteners are used on connection
components. Do not substitute non-locking fasteners
as this may lead to steering failure.

b. Is the helm "stiff/frozen"?
With the steering cable disconnected from the
link arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm, disconnect
the cable from the helm. (Refer to installation
instructions for that steering system.)

From the helm, attempt to turn the steering wheel
in both directions by hand to ensure that it moves
freely through its prescribed steering arc.

If everything does move freely and is in good
working order, go to step c.

If the wheel does not move, replace the helm
and bezel kit. If the helm and bezel are no longer
available, replace helm, bezel and cable with an
appropriate Teleflex steering kit.

c. Does the engine/drive/rudder pivot freely
through its entire arc from port to starboard?
With the steering cable disconnected from the link
arm, tiller arm or rudder post arm, move the engine/
drive/rudder back and forth by hand to ensure that
it moves freely through its prescribed steering arc.
If it does not move or is extremely stiff, have proper
maintenance or repairs done. If it does move freely,
then check for obstructions that may have been
limiting engine movement and/or revisit steps a-b.

15. How do I remove the steering cable from the engine's tilt tube?

Disconnect the link arm that attaches the output
end of the cable (telescopic ram) to the tiller arm
of the engine. Unscrew the large nut that attaches
the cable to the tilt tube. If the cable was greased
regularly, it should slide out through the tube.

If the cable does not easily slide out, spray inside
the tube with liberal amounts of penetrating oil. With
care, use a small hammer and block of wood to
gently tap the cable out (after the attachment nut has
been removed from the tilt tube). Severe blows can
damage not only the cable but the engine's tilt tube
and other areas. This process requires care and
patience. Do not try to drive the cable out by turning
the steering wheel - this can damage the helm.

16. The steering cable is stuck in the engine's tilt tube. Now what should I do?

1. Sometimes a cable cannot be removed from
an outboard engine tilt tube because the tube
has rusted on the inside. The following method
is suggested for those cases in which "gentle
persuasion" won't prevail:

a. Fully loosen the large hex nut on the starboard
side of the engine that secures the steering
cable to the engine tilt tube.

b. Cut the cable's output ram close to the tilt tube.

c. Drive the cable out of the engine tilt tube. You
may not want to hammer or heat the tilt tube
in order to remove the jammed cable end.
Heating and hammering may damage the
engine mounting or pivot areas. You may have
to replace the engine tilt tube. If so, consult your
engine manufacturer's repair instructions.

2.When installing the new cable and tilt tube (if
necessary), be sure the inside of the tilt tube is
clean and well lubricated. Lubricate the external
parts of the steering cable's telescopic (output) ram
as well. Use a good quality, water resistant grease.

3. Be certain that all steering components are
correctly assembled and in good working order.
These items cannot be repaired; if any are
not in good working order, replace them.

NOTE: To ensure maximum performance and
service life for your mechanical steering system,
please read and follow the procedures outlined
in Maintenance Tips, later in these FAQs.

17. The steering cable's "core wire" is broken. How can this be repaired?

Steering cables cannot be repaired.

If a steering cable inner core wire separates or
breaks within the steering helm (gear box), the
steering cable must be replaced with the correct one
for the helm.

The helm may need to be replaced as well. Cable
breakage within the helm may have caused damage
to the gears. A helm cannot be repaired and must be
replaced as a unit.

If the correct replacement cable and/or helm is no
longer available, replace the helm, bezel and cable
with an appropriate Teleflex steering kit.

18. I've heard steering cables should be "maintained". How exactly is this done?

We suggest the following periodic maintenance, at
least twice a season:

1. Be certain the helm(s), cable(s), steering
wheel and connection hardware are correctly
assembled and in proper working order. Check
for signs of stiffness, binding, excessive free
play and/or wear. These items cannot be
repaired; if any components are not in good
working order, replace them. Disassembly
of these items will void the warranty and
can lead to steering failure. Always replace
steering cables that are stiff in operation or have
damage to the plastic jacket (outer casing).

2. Clean and lubricate the engine tilt tube or cable
support tube and the steering cable telescopic
output ram as follows:

a. Remove the steering cable from the tilt tube.

b. Clean the tilt tube inside diameter thoroughly.

c. Remove corrosion in the tilt tube with a wire
brush. Wipe until all loose material is removed.

d. Lubricate the tilt tube with a good water
resistant grease.

e. Scour the steering cable telescopic ram with a
brass wire brush and wipe until clean.

f. Lubricate the sliding parts of the telescopic ram
with a high-quality, water resistant grease.

g. Reassemble, making sure all (correct) fasteners
are tight and there is no binding or excessive
free play in moving parts.

Note where locking fasteners are used. Do not
use non-locking fasteners; vibration can loosen
them, causing steering failure.

19. How do I install a steering wheel so it is centered when the engine is in the "straight ahead" position?

There are several methods, depending on the type
and model of steering:

For mechanical rack & pinion steering, attach the
rack to the helm with the cable in mid-travel position
and wheel centered.

For mechanical rotary steering helms, the starting
steering wheel position when you first feed the cable
into the helm determines where it will be when the
steering cable is "centered". To center the steering
wheel properly, we suggest orienting the wheel
(depending on the rotary helm installed) in the
positions depicted below. These starting positions
assume the helm is mounted for an ordinary
starboard cable exit.

You won't have to worry about centering a steering
wheel when installing hydraulic steering. Due to
a small amount of "slip" or "drift" inherent in any
hydraulic system, the steering wheel will not remain
centered. Use of a wheel with equidistant spokes
is the best solution for hydraulic steering since
that type of wheel has no natural "up", "down" or
"sideways" position.

20. How do I measure steering cables for a vessel with two steering stations?

The only cable steering system available for dual
station boats is the Teleflex Big-T. One cable with
two outer jacket (casing) sections is used to make
the run from the engine/rudder to the lower station
helm and then to the upper station helm.

NOTE: Please see the Big-T Dual Station product
pages, earlier in this catalog. The cable for this
system is special-order and non-returnable, so
please take extra care when measuring.

21. Are there any "tricks" to installing a steering system? Is there anything I should definitely avoid doing?

If you have an outboard or stern drive with nonpower-
assisted steering, we recommend you use
either a NoFeedBack (NFB) mechanical or hydraulic
(SeaStar/BayStar/Hynautic) system. For boats with
power-assisted steering, use HPS (mechanical) or
SeaStar. If you have or plan to install an autopilot,
use SeaStar.

Be sure you have the correct cable for the helm on
the boat (or vice versa). There are several kinds of
cables and helms that are not interchangeable; this
is true whether the system is rotary or rack & pinion.

Be sure you have measured properly and ordered
the correct length of cable. (The #1 reason for cable
returns is "wrong length ordered".)

Follow the installation instructions for steering
products completely. This will ensure the maximum
performance and reliability of the product. If the
instructions are missing, contact the manufacturer.

Handle the products with care and do not expose
them to impact or external stress.

Allow for generous (large) cable bends, notably
where the cable exits from the helm (or rack
housing) and where the cable makes the bend
to connect to the engine/drive/rudder. The tighter
the bends, the stiffer the cable will tend to be in
operation. Also, tight bends reduce cable life.
Note; 8" is the minimum bend radius generally
recommended for Teleflex steering cables.

When using tie wraps to affix the cable along the
gunwale area, allow some slack (do not cinch tight).
Slack in the tie wraps allows for cable flex as it is
actuated. This leads to smoother operation and
longer life.

Replace all worn steering connection/mounting
components with correct replacement parts that are
designed for the application. Do not substitute parts.
If you think parts are missing from a kit, contact your
distributor or the kit manufacturer for replacements.

When installing the cable at the engine end, be
sure to lubricate the telescopic ram (output end
that slides in and out) with liberal amounts of a
good, waterproof Lithium-based grease. This
is ESPECIALLY critical if the steering cable is
connected through the engine tilt tube as this area
tends to get very rusty.

Avoid the use of add-on grease fitting products
designed to lubricate cables. These units can in
fact force old grease, dirt and rust onto the moving
internal parts of a steering cable, shortening its life.
There is no substitute for proper cable maintenance
procedures, as noted earlier in these FAQs.