1" x 130 ft. Gummed Paper Hinging Tape

A white gummed tape that is good for general hinging. Acid free, lignin free and buffered to a pH 8.5 with 3% calcium carbonate. The water based adhesive is fast drying, strong and is reversible. View our videos on matting and hinging advice

This tape has passed the Photographic Activity Test (PAT) which determines whether or not a storage material will cause fading or staining of photographs.

Uses: Recommended use is for replaceable art such as digital prints or reproductions. It is strong and easy to use. We have had good success removing this tape on 90 lb. cold press water color paper but would not recommend trying to remove this tape from thinner papers because of potential damage.

Burnishing Bone

The burnishing bone is used for ensuring a maximum bond when attaching tapes and or hinges without the risk of contamination from dirt and oils. Also used for making creases in Japanese paper when preparing hinges.

Step 2 Determine the size of conservation paper you need to make edge strips for your artwork. The strips should be 1 1/2 – 2″ longer than your artwork on both sides. To cut the strips you will need a straight edge, ruler, and mat knife or razor blade.Note: The paper we used was permalife which is a 20 lb. white paper which is 25% rag and 75% pure cellulose. It is acid and lignin free and buffered. It has a pH of 8.5. It is available from many online sources.

Step 3 Cut the strips of paper the width you want. The bottom strip should be wider in the back than the other edge strips because it carries the weight of the artwork. On this project we cut the bottom strip 2″ and the top and side strips 1 1/2″.

Step 4 Make a fold in the strips. The technique we use is to take a burnishing bone and run it along the straight edge. On this project we made the fold width 1/2″. It can be made larger on heavier artwork with wide borders or smaller on light weight artwork with narrow borders.

Step 5 Fold the paper up over the straight edge to make the fold.

Step 6 Use your hands to make sure the crease lies flat against the back of the paper.

Step 7 Now take your artwork and place it on the backing board that has been attached to the mat.

Step 8 Take the bottom edge strip and place it on the artwork. Centering it so there is equal space on each side of the artwork.

Step 9 Next take the top edge strip and place it on the artwork centering it as you did the bottom strip. Now put a barrier paper on the artwork and weight the top and bottom strips down.

Step 10Place the side strips along the side of the art. Then take a pencil and mark where they intersect with the top and bottom strips.

Step 11 Take a razor blade or mat knife and make a cut in the fold where you have made the marks with your pencil.

Step 12 Now take the side edge strip and place the top edge strip through the cut you made in the fold. Repeat the process placing the bottom edge strip through the slit on the bottom of the side edge strip. Once top and bottom edge strips are inserted in the slots on the side edge strip slide it over until it is covering the side of the artwork.

Step 13 Repeat the process on the other side. This is what it will look like after all 4 strips are on the artwork.

Step 14 Remove the barrier paper and weights from the artwork.

Step 15 Center the artwork underneath the mat.

Step 16 Once the artwork is centered, place a barrier paper on the artwork and weight it down.

Step 17 Raise the mat up and make sure all of the edge strips are covering the edges of the artwork.

Step 18 Take archival paper tape and tape down the ends of all four edge strips to the backing board.

The edge strips will look like this when finished.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:This is a technique that can be used for heavier pieces that need more support. Cut out a section and or sections in the edge strips.