Does Premium Vodka's Taste Live Up to Its Price Tag?
20/20's Cocktail Taste Test Leads to Some Surprising Results
By ANN VARNEY and BILL RITTER
May 24, 2007 ó LINK

Are you a vodka snob? Do you routinely buy a pricey brand over a less expensive one? If so, you're part of a growing trend. "20/20" wanted to see what all the fuss was about & so we conducted a little test.

It's 6:30 p.m. in New York City's Times Square, typically happy hour, but not for our six subjects, who were all part of a little experiment conducted in the summer of 2005. The participants ranged in age from 21 to 40 years old, the prime cocktail-drinking demographic.

The laboratory was a popular restaurant and bar called Blue Fin. But instead of beakers and petri dishes, the chemicals we tested were found inside bottles -- six vodka bottles.

Why Vodka Is King
Why was vodka the drink of choice for our subjects? One participant, Trevor Freeland, responded, "It's simple, it pleases a lot of people." Michael Gurock added: "I never feel like I have a bad hangover the next day whenever I have vodka." And Melanie Weber said she chose it because "it can be mixed with a lot of different juices."

If you've been to a bar recently, you know that once lowly vodka invented on the cheap in Russia is now the most popular hard liquor in America, comprising 27 percent of total volume in 2006, easily outselling rum, gin, whiskey and tequila.

What's most striking about vodka's rise is the huge sales of so-called super-premium brands, up 38 percent in the past year. You'll know them by their remarkable bottles (one -- Wyborowa -- is designed by architect Frank Gehry) and by their even more remarkable prices: $30 to $60 and upward a bottle, up to four times the price of cheaper brands like Smirnoff, which sells for $13 a bottle.

Taste test participant Karen Kay told us she can perceive differences among brands. "With the lower-end vodkas I think I really taste a difference in the drink, like an aftertaste, almost," she said.

What are their favorite brands? Weber preferred Ketel One. Freeland liked Belvedere best. And the remaining four favored Grey Goose.

From 007 to Carrie Bradshaw
Vodka arrived in the United States during World War II, but didn't start really gaining popularity until the 1960s, thanks in part to James Bond. It was 007 in the 1962 movie "Dr. No" who started a trend: "One medium dried vodka martini, shaken, not stirred." Bond insisted his martinis be made with vodka, not gin.

The HBO television show "Sex and the City" propelled vodka to new heights with ubiquitous cosmopolitan cocktails. America's foremost mixologist Dale DeGroff (who tended bar at New York City's famous Rainbow Room) has made mixing cosmos into something of an art form.

"The cocktail is an icon," said DeGroff, "and the vodka cocktail is the top of the pyramid of that icon."

And no vodka brand has made a bigger splash than the $30 a bottle super-premium brand Grey Goose. A Grey Goose commercial says it is "rated the best-tasting vodka in the world."

A little strange, given that the U.S. government's definition of vodka, said DeGroff, is: "Tasteless, odorless, colorless & You are buying the bottle. You're buying the sexiness. You're buying the whole package."

The Taste Test
Which brings us back to our little experiment. Can people really tell the difference in taste between the expensive and cheaper vodkas? Our blind vodka taste tests were conducted by Eben Klemm, the director of cocktail development for B.R. Guest, a chain of upscale restaurants.

Klemm instructed the testers to "sniff through them first to sort of calibrate your nose a little bit."

Most of the testers thought they would be able to recognize their favorite brands, which didn't surprise Klemm. "Everyone's a snob about their brands," he said. "I mean, they've built their whole nightlife identity on which brands they are -- whether they're a 'Belvedere man' or a 'Grey Goose woman.'"

The first test involved tasting the vodkas "neat," which means straight and at room temperature.

"I'm shocked," said Gliksman. "I really am shocked, because it was bad."

"I guess that says something about the marketing then, doesn't it?" said DeGroff. "They're not relying heavily on their taste buds. They're relying more heavily on the perceived value, or the status."

There wasn't a hands-down favorite vodka for the testers, but two did stand out: Hangar One at $35 a bottle and Belvedere at $32 a bottle.

Mixing It Up
What would happen if we added a mixer to the vodka test? What percentage of people prefer vodka as a mixed drink, rather than straight?

According to DeGroff, everybody drinks it mixed. "How many people do you know that drinks straight vodka? Very, very few," he said.

So we did a second test mixing the same six vodkas into cosmopolitans: 3 parts vodka; 1 part triple sec, lime juice, and cranberry juice.

Klemm told the testers, "I want you all to see whether you can pick out nuances."

It turns out that the testers had a tough time distinguishing between cosmos made with the $62 Stoli Elit and cosmos made with the $13 Smirnoff.

McGinness said that he "found them very similar," and wasn't able to pick out his beloved Grey Goose.

"The distinctions are not as & definitive," said Freeland. "They're not as obvious."

So will these test subjects change their drink of choice?

Kay said, "I'm going to be experimenting a lot at the bar next time I go, because I came in having one favorite, I chose a different one for the neat, and I chose another one for the cosmopolitan. So & I guess that means I'm not going to be as loyal to the brand as I used to be."

So, if you're looking to save some money the next time you saunter up to the bar, save a few bucks and order the house vodka instead of your favorite super-premium.

I never really drank for flavor, I drank for effect. The economics of it was just stupid to me to pay extra for it so I never did. I won't say that I didn't enjoy it from time to time, but I never bothered to elevate my drinking to that level for regular drinking. As far as I was concerned the speed rack had what I needed especially for vodka.

The first time I ever had grey goose was at a club in college. I heard that it was the best and being a vodka man (only after Tequila) I decided to buy me & a few friends a shot. I purchased 3 shots at $10 each and nearly spit the stuff out. That was the first & the last time I've ever tasted that crap. I know people that to this day only drink the high dollar crap because they fall victim to the marketing and image of premium liquors. I've long since given up on that when I discovered that bikini clad women don't come out in droves when you drink certain kinds of alcohol .

If I ever drink it with just lime I do like Kettle One a little better. Other than that it just seems like a waste. I'd rather spend more money on single malt scotch or really good bourbon. Most vodka is mixed and then who can tell the difference?

There's a brand of bourbon called Evan Williams. I used to ask people to pick the difference between that and JD. Few could ever tell the difference yet one is dirt cheap!

Premium drinks have made me a lot of money, so I can't knock 'em. I agree with the Wall Street Journal - when drinking a mixer, use the well brand (except Tequila perhaps). If it's straight, drink something nice or simply to your taste.

[QUOTE=Cynthetiq]I never really drank for flavor, I drank for effect.../QUOTE]

I don't have scientifically valid testing, just my trial and error tasting, tasting too much and observing the effects. But my strong impression is that if I drink vodka that is multi-filtered, the more filtered the less side effects/hangover and the "cleaner" the taste. As far as I've noticed, most vodkas are about triple filtered; some are quadruple filtered; a few are quintuple filtered. E.g., Skyy is filtered four or five times. Anyway, this relatively cheap Russian vodka called Russiya is quintuple filtered and I think it tastes smoother and cleaner and has noticeably less after-effects/hangovers in case of a rare overindulgence.

I don't know if anyone here knows for sure, but I sort of recall reading but not sure where, that the filtering removes "glycols" which are a component in all vodkas; with less of these glycols many people perceive a smoother taste, plus less of the negative after-effects.

That's kinda funny. I don't know much about vodka, but debaser's reasoning is fine with me. However, when it comes to whisky and bourbon, there is a vast number of ingredients involved and the variations of which make it easy to tell one brand from the other.

It wasn't publised as a scientific study. It was just a segment. News? No more news than Lindsay Lohan passed out on the seat the other day.

But the real question isn't the sample size or if it's scientific, it is if YOU can tell the difference.

At least with Lindsay Lohan passing out on the seat, that actually had to happen. If it didn't happen and it's published as news - correct me if I'm wrong - but they can be sued.

No, I don't think anyone can be sued here. Companies who make premium vodka might be pissed. Who's to say whether or not it really tastes better?

On that point Bose speakers in tiny little boxes don't sound good either. But their marketing has the majority believing Bose is "high end audio."

Just as acoustical engineering dictates a complete spectrum of sound is reproduced by a typical driver complement, well-designed crossover, and engineered box, I'd say things like extra passes of filtering for vodka do result in a high quality product.

Now whether or you can hear or taste the difference... well that is of utmost importance.

I can tell the difference. But that's mainly after years of partying too hard and getting sick off cheap vodka. Now, if I have a shot of the cheap stuff I gag. I tend to make mixed drinks stiff, so even in a screwdriver, vodka-tonic or bloody mary I can tell if it's cheap vodka.

Yeah I saw this test on 20/20. Very interesting. It's best to go with what you like I guess. I doubt I could tell the difference. If I buy vodka, it would usually be Smirnoff anyways. It is amusing though, how we fall prey to marketing and status. Drink up!

At least with Lindsay Lohan passing out on the seat, that actually had to happen. If it didn't happen and it's published as news - correct me if I'm wrong - but they can be sued.

No, I don't think anyone can be sued here. Companies who make premium vodka might be pissed. Who's to say whether or not it really tastes better?

On that point Bose speakers in tiny little boxes don't sound good either. But their marketing has the majority believing Bose is "high end audio."

Just as acoustical engineering dictates a complete spectrum of sound is reproduced by a typical driver complement, well-designed crossover, and engineered box, I'd say things like extra passes of filtering for vodka do result in a high quality product.

Now whether or you can hear or taste the difference... well that is of utmost importance.

wow, you can talk around the simplest of questions but can't answer it.

Can you tell the difference?

and with Halx, I agree, I can tell the difference with bourbon and whiskey.

However, back in the day I tended to drink more for effect. So, when it came to hard liquor (hell, any liquor, eh?), I followed the broke-ass drunk plan: what's the least amount of money I can spend while still getting really fucked up. Even when I had the money to spend, I still liked the cheap stuff because most times I couldn't tell a difference.

These people must be amateurs. You can line up any vodka of your choice and I will tell you which is which. Didn't Myth Busters do a segment similar to this??

Ketal One is my preferred as it has a distinct flavor and little aftertaste. I was a Belvedere snob until I drank a bottle of Ketal. Smirnoff/Absolute/Aristocrap are crap. I've been drinking vodka for about 14 years as my drink of choice and it's pretty easy to tell the difference. Of course, I wasn't a fan of Grey Goose being bought out by Bacardi from Sidney Frank (of Jagermeister fame) but hell good vodka is good vodka.

Cheap vodka is notorious for increased hang-overs and just a general shitty taste. I don't mind spending $40 for a Ketal One when it's what I enjoy. If a person enjoys "thor's hammer" or "gordon's" or whatever cheap brand then by all means enjoy it.. it leaves more good stuff for me

I have a feeling the people who were tasters were pansies used to watered down vodka or flavored vodka martini's.

The thing about alcohol is that it kills taste, at least for me. Then there's the issue that I don't have a particularly well-developed sense of smell (if there were an analogy of glasses for your nose, I would need them), and hard alcohol definitely dulls that sense quickly for me.

What I really notice is how I feel the next day when I drink cheap versus expensive. With expensive anything (with the exception of wine), I always feel better the next day.

I'm sure someone like gucci could distinguish between Ketel One and Hawkeye (bottled in Marshalltown, IA!).

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I do enjoy drinking vodka straight and I can tell a difference. I usually buy Smirnoff for drinking straight. I'll only buy Skyy for mixed drinks. Stolichnaya is good, but in my opinion doesn't justify the extra cost. Grey Goose is overpriced.

The best vodka I ever had was in Russia. I don't know what it was called because I just left it up to the Russians I was with to pick what they drink (I only recommend that if you trust the Russians you are with), but damn was that stuff smooth. Then I matched them for somewhere between 8 to 11 shots (I lost count somewhere), and then walked unassisted on frozen ice covered sidewalks. As an American on his first trip in Russia, I think I earned the respect of a few Russians that night.

__________________
Aside from my great plans to become the future dictator of the moon, I have little interest in political discussions.

As someone who usually only drinks Vodka with Redbull, and then only to keep the tears at bay for another evening, I don't care.

People that tell me that pepsi is better than coke, or a big mac is far superior to a whopper are dicks. I don't care for your opinions, nor do I wish to entertain the chance that you might be right, because you are not.

Sheeple who listen to ABCNEWS, or their friend down the hall deserve whatever they get. If you like something that costs $50, it does not make you any more or less right or wrong than someone who likes the $20 variant. And this notion that you cannot tell the difference is forfeit. They even said in their article that you are paying for the bottle, for the "Effect". So let them.

I don't know why I am angry about this, so don't ask.

__________________
Crack, you and I are long overdue for a vicious bout of mansex.

Cheap vodka is notorious for increased hang-overs and just a general shitty taste. I don't mind spending $40 for a Ketal One when it's what I enjoy. If a person enjoys "thor's hammer" or "gordon's" or whatever cheap brand then by all means enjoy it.. it leaves more good stuff for me

Who said anything about cheap? I'm doubly a chump for not only buying it for the bottle, but paying as much as I did to boot...

wow, you can talk around the simplest of questions but can't answer it.

Can you tell the difference?

I did answer your question:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoubleAught

I'd say things like extra passes of filtering for vodka do result in a high quality product.

re: "wow, you can talk around the simplest of questions but can't answer it."
My god, why do I get such flak from the mods around here? Is it wrong of me to express my opinions or to defend myself? As far as I can tell in both cases I have broken no rule, yet get directed harassment. I've been around since 00 or 01, never have I seen it like this. (It's no one but the mods either)

Morale of the story is I'll go back to lurking and thanking people for their contributions where I won't be attacked. No PMs necessary, I've learned my lesson.

it's obvious from the "study" that people can tell there are differences between them (perhaps because they know they are supposed to be able to, because they know the drill up front) but have in some cases trouble matching particular qualities to particular brands. to which the reponse "duh" seems in order, followed quickly by "so what?"

so what did we learn?
that price does not index quality. well, duh.
that some folk like to act as though the opposite was the case. well duh again.
that people consume some things as status markers---you dont say. thank fucking christ 20/20 was on the case to point out this one. who knew?

what do we learn nothing about? well, vodka for one thing. and then everything else. we do not, in the end, learn shit. thank christ 20/20 is on the case. those crack journalists never let you down.

it must have been a slow night on the "lets not think about anything terribly complex" news front.

Having suffered the after-effects of cheap vodka, I actually taught myself to recognize the cheaper ones. Skyy actually doesn't give me a headache, which is bizarre... and Grey Goose tears up my stomach. There's something about the strength and timbre of the aroma along with bitterness in tast is what I look for. Because at least for me, that's telling me what I'm going to feel like tomorrow. basement vodka tastes and smells like ass.

For the record, I'll turn down a drink with Belvedere in favor of Skyy 90, which we just discovered last weekend. Much to the chagrin of the local rednecks. And my bank account, being the reformed Smirnoff drinker that I am. Skyy 90 is my new favorite.

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Here's how life works: you either get to ask for an apology or you get to shoot people. Not both. House

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plan9

Just realize that you're armed with smart but heavily outnumbered.

The question isnít who is going to let me; itís who is going to stop me. Ayn Rand

re: "wow, you can talk around the simplest of questions but can't answer it."
My god, why do I get such flak from the mods around here? Is it wrong of me to express my opinions or to defend myself? As far as I can tell in both cases I have broken no rule, yet get directed harassment. I've been around since 00 or 01, never have I seen it like this. (It's no one but the mods either)

Morale of the story is I'll go back to lurking and thanking people for their contributions where I won't be attacked. No PMs necessary, I've learned my lesson.

Hope everyone has a good day, drink what you enjoy drinking =D

It's not wrong, and you haven't broken any rules. Maybe you were just unexpectedly verbose?

You're right in the end though... It's your money, so drink what pleases you, whether that's because it is the "best", the most expensive, or what is socially chic.

Chalk me up as one who can't really taste the difference - not even in wine, whiskey, scotch, and bourbon. It's all a little overpowering.

re: "wow, you can talk around the simplest of questions but can't answer it."
My god, why do I get such flak from the mods around here? Is it wrong of me to express my opinions or to defend myself? As far as I can tell in both cases I have broken no rule, yet get directed harassment. I've been around since 00 or 01, never have I seen it like this. (It's no one but the mods either)

Morale of the story is I'll go back to lurking and thanking people for their contributions where I won't be attacked. No PMs necessary, I've learned my lesson.

Hope everyone has a good day, drink what you enjoy drinking =D

My apologies, but it didn't seem like an answer to me where I was looking for a simple yes or no answer.

Quote:

I'd say things like extra passes of filtering for vodka do result in a high quality product.

Doesn't inform me easily that you can tell the difference. What it means to me is that you believe the marketing machine.

Please also remember that there is not tone, body language, or any other normal communicative cues on forums, there is just text.

Most times, a corndog tastes just about as good to me as a five course meal staring with a delicate cobb salad sprinkled with bleu cheese, pan-seared chicken, garnished with a side of steamed vegetables and drizzled with a light vinaigrette. Food all tastes relatively similar, within about two or three categories. Really bad, average, really good. Very seldom does something does something deviate from just being average - about the same as any other food I could eat.

Because of this, I could never (and still never) understand people who put ridiculous effort into cooking, making, or purchasing expensive "gourmet meals." Everything I eat turns to shit, anyway.

Alcohol is the same way. It's either really bitter and hard to drink, average, or amazing. I've never found an alcohol that was absolutely amazing, and most are just average. I don't believe people who claim to be able to tell the difference between a $18 and a $60 bottle, because they're probably both in the "average" category to me.

And because I don't taste it, I don't believe anyone else can. So anyone claiming to be able to taste a difference.. you're a liar.

__________________"I'm typing on a computer of science, which is being sent by science wires to a little science server where you can access it. I'm not typing on a computer of philosophy or religion or whatever other thing you think can be used to understand the universe because they're a poor substitute in the role of understanding the universe which exists independent from ourselves."- Willravel