I usually use a foot and a half or longer extension with a swivel socket for all batteries...never had a problem. Spray a bit of wd40 down there and move the bolt in small stages.( out till it binds, back in to clean threads, and repeat 'till it turns freely)

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I agree with the previous answer that this a very time consuming job.
It took me 2+ hours. I would correct a couple of statements in his
answer. He refers to reaching around and behind an exhaust manifold
while changing the plugs, but actually if you are working from above the
engine (not below) you will be reaching around and behind the intake
manifold (not exhaust) during this process.
<br />
As he said, the front 3 are very easy - just remove the plastic cover
plate and the coils are visible - remove one short bolt, pull the coil
off, and using a long extension and a spark plug socket with a rubber
insert you can remove the plugs and replace with new ones.
<br />
The back 3 are very, very difficult. I did look from underneath the <a href="http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_spark_plugs_in_a_2002_Toyota_Highlander#">car</a>
and I don't see any way to get to them even if the exhaust manifold was
removed. I do believe the best way is from the top. As the previous
answer related room to maneuver wrenches and your hands / fingers is
very limited. I did remove a couple of minor brackets and hoses and the
cruise control wire to get a little more room. Of course, as with the
front, you have to remove each individual coil. Also - I believe two
tools are critical. First - a small size "stubby" ratchet with a
flexible head. You CAN use this type of small flexible ratchet to do
the removal and install instead of all finger movement. Second - you
need a number of small extensions.... in the 1" - 4" range... why???
because the rear plugs are also "deep" but there is no room to feed a
single long extension down between the firewall and the engine head. So
- you have to feed the spark plug socket and one short extension, and
then feed in another one, and then a 3rd one if necessary until you get
enough length to connect the socket to the plug, and the top extension
to the ratchet. To remove the extensions - work in reverse.. pull the
"assembly" out a little, remove one short extension, pull out further,
remove another, etc until you get to the spark plug socket. On the 3
rear plugs - for two of the plugs you work from "your right" side of
the intake manifold, or from the driver's side. For the final plug, on
the passenger side, work from your left side of the intake manifold. On
both sides remove minor hoses or brackets to get a little more room -
just be sure to hook them back up.<br /><br />

this is the pump rob / disconnect the battery cables/next jack up the car with a very sturdy reliable jack and place jack stands under the frame jack pads on each side behind the wheels(ex.) you'll see flat steel behind the wheels on the frame where there's enough room to place stands or a mechanics shop lift/ next drain the antifreeze into a drain pan big enough to hold 3 gallons then close the radiator petcock vale/drain plug when finished/next go to the pulley that is on the end of the pump and loosen the bolts while the belt is still on there is a belt tensioner that keeps the belt tight and if you have problems trying to loosen these bolts you can apply lift up tension on it using a ratchet or pry bar or wrench it depends on which one you have / a 3/8"-1/2" drive square for a ratchet or breaker bar/ or a bolt that you could put a socket or wrench over it you do this so it holds the pulley tight with the belt for stubborn pulley nuts/ next after the pulley removal and any other brackets that may be bolted to the water pump housing loosen the water pump mounting bolts and remove the pump if the pump is stuck on and your sure that all hold down bolts from the pump and other brackets are removed tap it with a rubber hammer or use a piece of wood and tap the pump to loosen it (DO NOT PRY ON THE PUMP OR TRY TO STICK A SCREW DRIVER BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE TIMING COVER YOU WILL DAMAGE THE COVER AND THE PUMP WILL LEAK)

here's a bigger photo take off the hose clamps and remove the hoses once you did that if the pump won't come off stick a broom stick or ratchet handle or screw driver in the lower radiator hose tube and tug outward and it will come off ==== assembly take the new gasket and apply hi temp R T V or hi tack gasket cement or Indian head gasket shellac to the pump housing and place the gasket on the pump wait about 5 minutes or less you just want it to hold the gasket in place enough so you can turn the pump over without it falling off you can stand socket on the pump edges to keep the gasket down then apply the sealer to the other side on the pump or to the timing cover where the pump mounts and install it putting sealer on the bolts and putting 2-3 in to hold the pump on then put the others in and crisscross tighten them in place till snug then and additional 1/8 - 1/4 turn we just want them tight enough /WARNING! DO NOT CRANK THE BOLTS TO HIGH HEAVEN YOU WILL STRIP THE TIMING COVER AND BE ON YOUR WAY TO HELL WITH NO HANDBASKET ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS MAKE SURE THE BOLTS GRIP SNUG THEN JUST A LITTLE BIT TO BE ALL THE WAY TIGHT!/ NEXT REVERSE THE REMOVAL STEPS FILL WITH ANTI FREEZE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS THERE SHOULD BE NONE IF YOU FOLLOWED THE INFO GIVEN ///////// YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT AT THIS TIME BEFORE FILLING WITH ANTIFREEZE

Remove the starter motor with a ratchet and socket and then unplug any electrical connectors from sensors or components attached to the transmission. Remove the sensors and components with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the header-exhaust pipe with a breaker bar and socket, if you believe you will need more room to secure and maneuver the transmission out of the vehicle.
Unfasten the transmission to mount, mount to crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts with a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. Detach any brackets from the bell housing or rear of the transmission housing with a ratchet and socket. Secure the transmission with a transmission jack and raise the transmission just enough to remove the mount and crossmember supporting the transmission.OEMScan GreenDS GDS 3 Professional Diagnostic Tool Support Online Update

Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.

Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.

Finish removing the tire.

Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.

Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.

Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.

Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.

Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.

Install the New Upper Control Arm

Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.

11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.

Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.

1.The battery negative and more importantly positive cable must be disconnected.2. There are 2 14mm bolts holding the starter in place, the upper bolt can be removed by leaning over into the engine compartment from under the hood with a socket and extension on a ratchet or a ratcheting wrench.3. crawl under the front passenger wheel and remove the positive cable nut, remove positive cable from starter.4. unclip the small ground wire attached to starter.5. remove the lower starter bolt.6. There is room on the bottom of the vehicle to wiggle the starter down to the floor and out from under the vehicle. There isn't enough room to get the starter out from the engine compartment up and out from under the hood.7. installation of new starter is reverse of installation.

This procedure should work on any Isuzu Rodeo, Trooper, Amigo, or Honda Passport with a 2.6L 4 cylinder 4ZE1 engine

There is probably a wedge securing it at the bottom. The wedge is being held by a single bolt and therefore preventing you from removing the battery. If thats the case you will need a ratchet and a 6 inch extension to reach the bolt and remove it. Hope that helps you.

Note: On the older starters and some newer ones their main fault was the copper terminal would get worn out on one edge of the solenoid bolt. All you needed to do was remove the bolt that the positive cable attached to and rotate it 180 degrees and go again. Some solenoids you can do this with and others you can't. Also, most of the times it is just the solenoid that is bad. If you find a starter/alternator repair shop locally you can buy just the solenoid pretty reasonable, $10-$30. Some parts stores carry them. Beats $100-$300 for a new starter.Starter replacement is a pain on the Neons. Plan to spend a good hour doing it if you don't know a lot about cars.1) Remove battery and battery tray. The upper bolts on the battery tray are easy to get to (2-13 mm). The ones under the battery are trickier (2-13mm). The highest bolt can be loosened from the top and the lower bolt loosened from the bottom. You only have to loosen these bolts 2-3 turns.2) Remove the cooling fan in front of the battery. (2-10 mm bolts) It may be helpful to remove the other one or at least take the bolts out. Some cars have 1 fan and others have 2. You can get the 2nd fan out without taking the top radiator hose off by taking the radiator brackets off of the top of the radiator and a few wiggles in the right direction.3) There is 1-15 mm bolt that goes into the starter from the battery side/transmission side. Remove it. With both fans removed you can take a deep socket, 13 mm, and ratchet and remove the Positive cable from the starter. There is barely enough room but if you hold onto the socket you can break it loose. Then use the deep socket in your fingers take the nut off. Be careful not to drop it, especially in grass. There is also a Brown wire that engages the starter. It has a push button release you have to press to pull it off.4) If you have the right tools you can then remove the last starter bolt from the engine side from the top. A box end 15 mm wrench sometimes works or even better the new ratcheting GearWrench with the flex head works great. If you don't have that you can take a long extension or several extensions and go from underneath the car. A wobble joint works better with the extensions if yo have it and is quicker than a wrench.5) Slide the starter out and the new one back in. Pay attention that the negative battery cable attaches to the bottom starter bolt. It won't start without it. There is also another accesory wire that goes on the positive cable bolt on the starter. Be sure that is on when you reassemble it.Everything else is just reverse of what you did to take it apart.Remove the neg battery cable and then follow the pos cable to find the starter. Remove the wires and mounting bolts and work it out. Call a couple of local parts stores for prices.

The order of the steps can be changed up a little but the basic steps are as follows.

1. Disconnect the battery cables. You will need a metric number 8 wrench for this task. Ratcheting wrenches are best. If you are facing the windshield during this task...when you go to loosen them remember you are facing the fasteners backwards, so the left loosie righty tighty rule is reversed. Turn the wrench to the right to loosen the cable bolt if you are facing the windshield. Pull the cables away from the battery

2. Remove the hold down bar / bracket. There are three fasteners on it. One on the
fender, one on the rad frame and one on the T-Shaped part at the base of the battery which is a nut with a washer head on it. You will need a number 10 wrench and socket/ratchet for this task. Be mindful of the height of your new battery compared to the one in there. I just bought an Exide/Motomaster battery and it appears to be taller making it next to impossible to get the bracket to reach the stud at the base of the holder. Remove the bracket up and away after the three fasteners have been removed.

3. Remove the plastic battery cover. To do so, you will more than likely need to pull the block heater chord out of the holder on the inner side of the cover to give yourself enough slack to pull the cover off.

4. Loosen the battery hold down bolt. This is done with a number 10 or 12 socket (12 think) and a long extension bar. Once loosened enough this should allow you to pull the battery up and out of the vehicle.
NOTE: If you have an autostart unit installed , be careful where you have your hands during removal and replacement. Keep them away from the fan.. the autostart I have autostarts the vehicle occasionally when the cables are reconnected.