ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT. Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat. Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity) If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it) DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly. For further instructions on how to replace the element go to the following website: davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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If it is a heat pump if the ambient I door temp is not than 3 degree s lower than 66 it utilizes the aux heat ( heat strips) to help the unit achieve your desired temperature set point faster. Also the heat pump does need help if trying to overcome really cold temperatures. Once set point is achieved the heat pump should be able to keep the home at the set point without aux heat. But the flashing may just be to let you know that the heat strips are in use at the current time. See if when the temperature gets close to your set temp if it goes away. If not a heat pump it may always flash to just tell you heat strips are in use. Some homes mostly trailers only have heat strips but on heat pumps heat strips are there to help heat pump get to your desired temp. But when your heat pump can maintain the temp without the strips is where it saves power. Also heat pump thermostat hVe emergency heat settings. This scares alot of people but if your heat pump isn't working and you have to switch it to emergency heat until you can get it fixed,. That means that the system is only using heat strips and not utilizing heat pump at all. Power bill may be a little higher but remember, most trailer homes only have heat strips and if you do not use emergency heat in this situation your heat strips will only heat home 3 degrees below set point on thermostat to allow heat pump to bring it up the other 3 degrees. If heat pump isn't working correctly you will always be 3 degrees colder than what you set you thermostat at. Maybe too much info but it's prolly just your aux heat on helping system achieve the desired temp you set thermostat too.

What makes you feel warm on a sunny day in the summer?Radiant heating or radiant energy is usually recognized as the oldest form of heating. It provides the best comfort and is the basis for all types of heating systems.Radiant heating is "radiant energy" being emitted from any heat source.Radiant heating is the effect you feel when you can feel the warmth of the sun or a hot stove top element from across the room.

Radiant heat is widely known as the most comfortable and efficient heating method you can find. Some of the advantages of radiant heating are: it is usually more efficient than baseboard heating and almost always more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through ducts and other transfers.This technology can be used for both heating indoor and outdoor areas.These heating systems work by supplying heat directly to the floor, to panels in the wall or to the ceiling of a house. Because the radiant heating will make you feel warmer when you are in a room, you can have the thermostat at a lower temperature and still feel warm.

The feeling of warmth is the absence of heat being pulled from your body. If the walls, floors, and ceilings around you are warm then they are not pulling heat from your body. Then you feel warm. Your body is not giving up heat to them.

Because of this radiant heating systems can provide massive energy savings of more than 10-30% in most residences, and sometimes up to 60% in shops, hangars and warehouses. Radiant heating provides even warmth with no cold spots within a room. That provides a comfortable environment that cannot be matched by any other type of heating system.

New radiant systems are currently designed to run cooler than they did in the past. The water supplied to the systems will generally range from 90 to 140 degrees.Remember radiant heat can travel in any direction and is unaffected by gravity. Radiant heating systems will allow you to be more comfortable at a lower thermostat setting.Radiant heat will warm the closest and coldest mass, which then radiate heat throughout the space evenly.Radiant heating will give you the most consistent room temperatures from floor to ceiling when you compare it to any other heating system.

If you have an air to air heat pump, in colder temperatures, the heat pump will not heat as well as it would in warmer outdoor temperatures making it run longer. the digital thermostats work off of a built in algorithm that kicks on the auxiliary heat when the heat pump runs to long so that it will satisfy the thermostat quicker. This can be tied to the Emergency heat @ the thermostat energizing a few heating elements, or just energizing a separate element from the emergency heat. I always recommend on an air to air heat pump to run the emergency heat when you have consistent Outdoor temperatures below 20 degrees F because you will cycle the heat less by getting hotter heat making life more comfortable, and it costs about the same as running the heat pump since @ those temperatures, it will run all the time.

If the compressor is off and the heat coil is on - this is normal for the "E" or emergency heat setting. Check for proper connections between the Heat-pump, furnace(heat source) and the thermostat and that the thermostat is capable of controlling a heat-pump with secondary/emergency heat units. Thermostats designed for this have 4 settings: Cool / off / heat / E(emergency heat). in the "heat" setting, both the Heat-pump and Aux heat work together to maintain temperature. In the "E" setting, only the Aux heat source is used. The "E" setting should only be used in extreme cold - when the Heat-pump can no longer produce heat.

If your thermostat has an emergency heat setting this means you have a heat pump system.
Yes you need to set the thermostat to heat for heating the house.
The emergency heat setting should never be used unless your outside unit is not functioning.
The emergency heat setting overides the heat pump (the outside unit will not be energized).
The emergency heat setting will run the auxillary heat (heat strips) only.
When the thermostat is set in the heat position the heat pump will run to heat your house.
If the heat pump can't keep up (extreme cold) then then the auxillary heat will kick in to augment the heat pump until it satisfies the thermostat settings. If your room temperature gets 2 degrees below your thermostat setpoint, your auxillary heat will kick on. Example, say you are going to be gone a couple of days and you turn your heat down to 60 degrees. When you return and it is 60 degrees in your house, you turn the thermostat up to 70 degrees. Since you are turning the temperature up 2 degrees or more (10 degrees in this case) from the 60 degree room temperature then the heat pump will come on and the auxillary heat strips. The unit will continue heating like this until the temperature in the house gets to 69 degrees and the heat strips will turn off and the heat pump will continue to run until the 70 degree setpoint is reached.
Hope this helps.
SeagullAC

It stands for Emergency Heat. (Back up heat) . Normally you will find it on heat pumps. It's used manually when the compressor goes out on a heat pump. It's used automatically by the unit when it's so cold outside the heat pump can't keep up. This happens when there is not enough heat in the air to draw heat from. This happens at around 23 degrees. I hope this explains what emergency heat is and what it's used for.

Sorry, neither of these answers are completely correct.
You have a heat pump (or the wrong thermostat). Let's assume you have a heat pump.

In air conditioning mode, it works like every air conditioner you have ever had, but...

In heat mode, it reverses its operation. Have you ever felt the air coming out of the outdoor unit of your A/C unit? It's hot, isn't it. And the air coming out of the indoor unit (out of the registers) is cold. Now for a heat pump to produce heat it simply runs the air conditioner in reverse and the heat comes out in the house and the cold is released outside. Neat, huh!

Here's the problem with heat pumps...when it is really cold outside the heat pump can't produce enough heat to heat your home. So it has an additional heat source called "Auxiliary Heat". This heat comes on automatically when the house doesn't get warm enough. The source of this heat is based on the region of the country you are in. North/Northeast generally have oil heat, other regions have gas, and still others have to use electricity to heat. In Texas, we usually use electricity as the supplementary heat on heat pumps. VERY EXPENSIVE!

Now the "Emergency Heat"...this is exactly as stated in Solution #2. This is manually turned on by YOU at the thermostat when your heat pump fails. This turns on the auxilliary heaters and turns off the heat pump (remember, the reverse air conditioner). Again, this can be quite expensive to run if your heat source uses electricity! Gas and oil may be cheaper. The emergency heat is only designed (normally) to keep the house livable (not comfortable) until the Heating Tech can get out to you and fix your heat pump.

Something else you should know. It is normal for a heat pump's outdoor coil to frost up during heating mode. It will detect this and go into DEFROST mode and melt the frost off the coil. While it is doing this, it will turn on the auxilliary heater to keep the air blowing in the house at a reasonable "warm" temperature, but it will not be as hot as normal. In fact, heat pumps produce a lower temperature heat than traditional heaters. So the air may feel cooler during heating than you are use to anyway. This is normal and is not a sign of a problem.

So what do you do: Set your thermostat to the temperature you want and set the controls for HEAT/COOL and FAN-AUTO/ON and leave the EMERG HEAT off unless your heat pump breaks.

if you look inside the condenser unit outside,see if you see the big reversing valve,if not it is a straight cool,heat, the heat strip ins in the air handler so you would have to take the side panel off and look for the heat stripe,my the way heat pumps also have a aux.heat stripe just in case it does not get cold enough outside,hope this helps you-mike