I purchased my CT599 (chrome version) about a month ago, and have been using it ever since. The craftsmanship is terrific, and the paddle is truly elegant in it's design, appearance, and adjustability. Like any new paddle, it takes some time to get it adjusted properly for your sending style, but once you do, using it is truly a pleasure.
This paddle is an incredible value- I'm amazed that Yuri can deliver such a nice paddle at this price.

I've had the brass version for over a year now and think it's outstanding. The main thing that caught my eye, besides the shiny brass, is the pivot mechanism is contained in the base making the top surface of the paddle very clean in appearance. There is no slop in the mechanism, only smooth motion in the pivot to the silver contacts. I noticed the acrylic (?) tabs make more sound than most others. This wasn't so bothersome. Be that as it may, a set of Walnut tabs were fashioned and they knocked the noise level down considerably. There is metal to metal contact at the rest position of the swing arms therefore some dampening material was placed there also. Now one only hears a slight click when the silver contacts mate. With a side tone it's barely noticeable.

I'm quite sure my sending speed is a good 5wpm better with these paddles than my old Bencher BY-1 set, even right off the bat with no practice. Perhaps the adjustments on my BY-1 weren't quite right but straight out of the box the CT599 is a joy to use. I like the lower profile compared to the Bencher.

The workmanship is excellent and the design is a thing of beauty. The price is well below many other paddles for similar design and quality. I see none of the issues posted by a couple of others in these reviews - all seems fine to me - very well built and robust and the chromework is gorgeous.

I do notice the paddles make just slightly more noise than the Benchers, at a slightly higher frequency, but its not something I would give a negative review to.

If gnats were the only thing wrong with summer, I would still hate summer, just for gnats. And when winter comes, I can't even wear llama wool. No doubt, it was something small which irritated me about the CT599 the minute I started using it.

Everything positive you've read about this machine is absolutely true. It's a masterpiece of engineering, beautiful to boot, and although I understand that a thousand Incas were slain to obtain the gold for the plating, the price is a third of the next better product. No matter. There's still obviously one thing wrong with it.

This little sweetie has a damned annoying little chirp to it.

At first I thought it was nothing. But after a few minutes, it really started getting under my skin. To make sure it wasn't my imagination, I went to both my MFJ and my American Morse Porta-Paddle. The MFJ was dead silent and although the Porta-Paddle made some noise, it was more like a tolerable dull thud rather than a pesky little chirp. Even when I separated the contacts to within a millionth of an inch, the damned little chirp was still there. Even with the keyer volume set loud, the damned little chirp was still there.

I immediately set about for a solution. Enclosing the device in a cardboard box with a slot cut out for the paddles, afforded zero noise reduction, even when I put foam rubber all around in the inside of the box. At first, I was pretty puzzled by this, but then when I was eating a ham (no pun) sandwich for lunch, a thought came to mind as to why this might be so. I went back to the CT599 and began actuating the levers while I ran my ear back and forth, front to back. In doing so, I realized that the chirping sound was coming from the clear plastic paddles.

OK, so now here's the short of it. If you want get the chirp out, you have to deaden the paddles with leather. Contact paper or duct tape won't work. I tried these. Thin suede, about the thickness which is used for clothing, is the best thing. If you need a piece, email me at aeroron@ptd.net and I'll send you some free. I'm so into leather.

But now there are two things you're doing with the leather. First, you are mechanically separating the paddles from the levers, and second, you are killing the reverberation of the paddles. In other words, it is important to insure that there is no contact whatsoever between the levers and the paddles, which includes the four screws that hold the paddles.

To start, you'll need to buy four M2 5x8 pan head (metric) machine screws to replace the paddle screws which won't be long enough for the fix. Bring one screw with you and just get the next longer size.

The first thing you must do is to grind off about a 32nd from the back of each paddle to make sure they no longer contact the levers at that point. Then, using a paddle as a template, draw two mirror images onto the rough side of your leather and two dots for the hole centers. Then drill out the holes with the smallest bit which will require you to actually push the screws through. In other words, you want a really tight fit for the holes. Then, cut out each paddle cover and brush a thick layer of Elmer's glue on the rough side. When the glue gets tacky, sandwich each paddle with the covers. Because the leather tends to move when it dries, you'll want to immediately insert the 5x8 screws to insure clear holes.

Once the glue dries, remove each screw and rap the shafts several turns with white plumber's tape. Then, push the screws pack through the leathered-up paddles, and bolt them on. With the tightly cut holes, the leather all around and the plumber's tape, what you have done is to mechanically isolate the paddles from the levers in every possible way, but don't over-tighten the four paddle screws or you will get some of the chirping noise back. You should be able to rotate the paddles up and down a bit with some force.

Just so you know, I first I thought of just isolating the paddles with small pieces of leather only at the attachment points as described. It didn't work. The paddles still chirped. You have to deaden the paddles with a full covering of leather.

If you don't like the feel of the leather, you can probably razor off the touch points on the outside of each paddle without sacrificing much deadening loss. But you know what? I kind of like the new leather feel. I like to set my points very close and the leather gives me a sort of cushion to avoid unintended finger poking. Try it before you decide to cut it. You may find the same appealing feel.

Once again, the CT599 is a great product and well worth the cost. I have read other reviews in which people have complained about looseness in the lever bearings and I would say that this is likely a QC rather than design problem.

What this manufacturer should seriously consider is finding a US authorized dealer who can handle these problems without imposing shipping time and expenses on the customers.

The first thing to say I had a typo in my previous review, I mean I bought it on August 1st and received it on the 8th of the same month (not March, uppss!). Anyway, I've been with him since then and over 1000 QSOs with him, and I can only say that is fine! Every time I like its softness and ergonomics, keep giving the same view that value for money is fantastic. Thanks Yuri. 73's Dave.EA1WH

I orderd CT599MX about 14.dec 13 from my QTH Bankok. By EMS the Paddle arrived in BKK on 23.Dec.
Yurji makes his products with heart! Along with absolutely professionality.
Result is a key which is unbelivable in precise, look absolutely super and is amazing designed.
I am a beginner in CW and I just was on a meeting from R.A.S.T. (Thai HAM Club) - all the CW professional / High speed CW OM's loved suddently this paddle. I am too in love with them and will never give them away !

First class key which is a excellent to use, Yury was a pleasure to deal with and only has one citeria, customer satisfaction. The key represents excellent value for money but above all the standard and finish are top class and are equal to keys valued at double his price. Can throroughly recommend this one.