Monday, December 30, 2013

The Southern New Year Table...

You know it wasn't just yesterday that I discovered that I really love Southern cooking. I've known it ever since I was big enough to sit up at the table with a chicken leg in one hand and one of Mammy's biscuits in the other. No one can quite make biscuits like our grandmothers, can they, Belles? No matter how much I watched her with that bowl of flour, from step one to step oven, I could never match her for tenderness, flakiness, or just plain goodness. They always came out of the oven exactly the same golden brown every time, the steam rising off them carrying with it the faint sour smell of buttermilk. I was having a discussion with my neighbor, Joanne, about buttermilk. She likes to eat cornbread in buttermilk, just like Mac does (and he loves saltine crackers mixed up in it, too.) I don't like the taste of buttermilk in the raw. I like it in my pancakes or buckwheat cakes. I like it in my biscuits or as a dressing in my slaw...but I don't want a big icy glass of buttermilk with chunks of bread floating in it so you had to eat it with a spoon. No ma'am, I want to cook with it.
Anyway, it's the Southern cook that gets the blame for high cholesterol and hardened arteries, for the most part. What made my grandmother's (we called her Mammy) biscuits so doggoned good, you ask? You didn't ask? Well I'm sure you intended to, so here's the answer. It was the lard. It was the soft wheat self rising flour. It was the buttermilk. And it was her hands. She always told me that I overworked the dough, that you just wanted to work it till it held together nicely when you "petted" it into a round. The imprint of her knuckles would always be in that finished product. I can't remember a time when we were children that she wasn't up with the roosters, making a pan of biscuits, frying side meat(fat back or streak a lean) a pot of grits on the back of the stove and those wonderful scrambled eggs, soft white swirls of -egg white like marbling throughout them. My sister Toni was the only one I know of that managed to learn her method of scrambling eggs. Now, here we are coming onto the New Year and we have a custom. We eat "Hoppin' John and Collard Greens...Hopping John is simply black eyed peas cooked till they're nicely soft and served over a big fluffy bed of rice, with the pot likker ( the water your food is cooking in.) Some folk like to serve a healthy dollop of chopped onions on top, too. I used to ask Mammy why they called it Hoppin' John and the only answer I ever got was because someone had kicked John in the shin. That was her way of saying she didn't have a clue. I have read about eight or nine theories as to how it got the name, but so far no one really seems to know. How Hoppin' John got it's name is still a mystery. Then there are Collard greens. They're much like cabbage, but not at all like cabbage. They're similar to turnips, but very dissimilar to mustard greens. They have body to them. They are really the only green leafy vegetable I know that requires chewing. And the heads aren't ready to pull till it's had one good frost on it. Freezing sweetens them. Now, the reason we especially eat them on New Years day is for wealth and prosperity. The tradition being that if you eat the Hoppin' john you'll have plenty of coins pass through your fingers, and if you eat collards you'll have folding money in your pocket all the time. It's a wonderful tradition in that if you have Hoppin' John and Collards on your table, you're richer than an awful lot of people who have nothing on their table. And so, once again we will be rich this year. The collards are in the freezer and a bag of dried black eyed peas is always in my cupboard. You never know when a little wealth will come in handy.

I think cholesterol gets far too much credit (or blame, if you will) for health. What's the difference in years lived from North to South, from cuisine to cuisine in America? EVERYBODY ends up dead, in any case. What's important is how much you enjoy the life God gave you, and how much you help others to enjoy their lives. And, by God - and I mean that with no trace of blasphemy intended - fried chicken, biscuits, and whatever else is tasty and lovely to eat is worth it. I'd rather be eating lard than going through life with a ramrod up my arse worrying about every damn thing that enters my mouth.

Well I have a theory about that hoppin' John business, but being a lady and all... Thank you for the thorough discussion of New Year's Eve and Day foods. I have had some friends from the South who ate mighty strange things...another was sauerkraut...on New Year's Eve for wealth and happiness in the New Year. May you and Mac have a wonderful 2014!

Every one seemed to thrive on lard years ago! Now I'm vegetarian, so it turns me off a bit. However, things did seem to taste better in the *old days* didn't they?Happy New Year to you and yours!Maggie x

Happy New Year Sandi! Nice that you have so many wonderful memories to make your day richer! My family never did that much for New Year and when I was in the Navy it was the staying up all night and celebrating the date change over all the different time zones. LOL May your New Year be the best ever!Love,Lee

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

What wonderful memories you brought back talking about buttermilk biscuits. I learned from my grandmamma how to make them. I did for many years start them from scratch. Now I use Pillsbury frozen biscuits. My GM cooked everything in lard or bacon grease. No wonder her food tasted so good. And her desserts were awesome.

I am cooking black-eyed peas,and cabbage with sausage. Have to have my good luck for the coming year. Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year.

Wow sweet friend! You've stirred up sooo very many memories of my Grandmother as I read this post. Her biscuits were an art. Truly! I loved sitting on a stool to watch her as she made our biscuits. And yes, she left her knuckle print right before she popped those babies into the oven. Oh, how I wish I had one. I wish I could make them like she did. In her oval wooden biscuit bowl, miracles happened. Now...buttermilk. Not for drinking here either. Now, my Mom still loves to sip on it. When she was here over Christmas, she made an awesome pan of cornbread and then drank some with our meal. Yuk! She told me her she loves to drink buttermilk with oreos. Can you imagine?!

dang it...it is the collards i was missing...no wonder i have no money...i need collards...seriously you lost me in day dreaming when you said chicken leg in the first couple lines...oy, its too late for me to be this hungry....

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