COUNTRY CLUB GRILL “Special” Lunch

We can’t say the “special” lunch at the Wynn’s Country Club Grill is all that special, but at least it only costs $28 — which is something of a bargain for three courses at our most expensive resort.

And the view, of course, is free.

Chef Carlos Guia has taken over the reigns from Rene Lenger (now at SWITCH — good luck with that Rene), and is slowly molding the menu in keeping with his Commander’s Palace/Louis’ background. We’ve been Guia fans for years, but his menu at CC Grill seems to be a work in progress.

As an early indicator, his chorizo with polenta cake was a mighty fine dish — if you ignore the so-so sausage and concentrate on the feather-light, intense corn pudding. And the roasted corn soup was good, but not as corny as the one Michael Jordan puts out at Rosemary’s.

Another gripe: Even though they advertise the “summer special menu” throughout the hotel, they don’t hand it to you when sit down, i.e., they make you ask for the “special” menu and reveal yourself as a bargain hunter — a peculiar piece of up-selling/humiliation that, if intentional, is indefensible.

We say let Carlos play with the menu a while longer, and if you’re really looking for a summer party in your mouth, order his ethereal cold lump crabmeat with avocado in a watermelon gazpacho with yucca crisps. Unlike the less-than-compelling chorizo, this hot weather app will cool you off and take your breath away at the same time.

It is a perfect example of what a top flight chef can do with humble ingredients — coax each of them into singing in tune while making the whole greater than the sum of its parts. (It’s true: Mixed metaphors are becoming ELV’s metier!)

Our lunch for one came to $38 (including tip). We suggest paying $21 for the crab and watermelon gazpacho and calling it a day.