Here is a wonderful vintage 8 karat (hallmarked) yellow gold and (Bohemian) garnet cluster ring. It has an à jour setting which means the light shines through it beautifully. There are 9 deep, dark red rose cut garnets in total, one large central one surrounded by 8 smaller. CLICK HERE for more details.

Here are some basic tools that are helpful for collecting and / or buying and selling vintage and antique jewellery. All of these things can be found on Amazon. I find these, along with information readily available on the Internet and in books, is usually sufficient for most situations. I haven’t found it necessary to purchase specialist hallmark books because I’ve found all the information available online; however, you may decide to invest in some appropriate to the country you buy your jewellery from.

1. Gem dealer’s loupe. I would recommend x20 or x30 amplification. They are good for hallmarks, inspecting for damage, looking for inclusions in gemstones and for examining materials.

2. Diamond tester. A precious stone analyzer is a must-have tool if you want to collect and / or buy and sell precious stones. They can be expensive but are worth the investment.

3. UV torch light. This can be used for identifying glass and some gemstones which glow under UV light.

4. Unglazed white tile. This is a good base to rest jewels on and can also be used for testing certain materials (i.e. jet).

5. Digital Scales. It’s essential to have some digital scales. I would suggest ones that can weigh from 0.01 grams to 500 grams.

6. Jewellery Caliper. These are generally made from brass and measure up to 80 mm. They are very helpful to measure jewellery and get ring sizes etc (I don’t find a ring measure is necessary if you have this and a ring size conversation chart, available online).

7. Electronic gold tester. Very useful if you’re dealing in non-hallmarked gold. Tri-Electronics make a variety of good gold testers. I know a lot of people like the acid tests but I prefer not to deal with chemicals when I can help it. Note: If you have gold tested something yourself please be certain to let anyone buying the piece from you know this. Fire assay is the only 100% accurate gold test.

8. A small magnet. One of these is useful to have if you visit markets / small shops and you want to quickly eliminate non-gold

9. Chemical silver testing kit. This is helpful if you want to identify the carat of unmarked silver.

10. Simichrome polish. This is useful if you want to identify Bakelite.

A naturally mined Alexandrite and 9 ct English ring from my personal collection. Judging by the Art Deco setting, I would place this ring from 1920 to 1940. It was hard to capture the colors with my camera, but the stones change subtly from dark green to dark purple in daylight.

Antique Emerald Ring

Here is a striking and unusual, very lovely antique emerald and gold alloy dress ring. It has an à jour setting which means the light shines through it beautifully. The stones are very eye-catching. The metal gold alloy is a great soft colour, a muted gold colour which makes it very wearable.

Vintage 8k Gold Bohemian Garnet Ring

A wonderful vintage or antique 8 karat (hallmarked) yellow gold and (Bohemian) garnet cluster ring. It has an à jour setting which means the light shines through it beautifully. There are 9 deep, dark red rose cut garnets in total, one large central one surrounded by 8 smaller.

Chinoiserie Dragon Head Bangle

The first wave of Chinoiserie (Western and Chinese fusion design) came in the 18th century. Towards the end of the 19th century there was a renewed interest in all things Chinese. This style continued through the Art Deco period and onwards. I haven’t quite been able to make my mind up about the age of this amazing bracelet which is why I’ve given it a wide range.

Miniature on ivory, c. 1830’s. Hand-painted miniature of a left hazel eye on ivory in heart-shaped pendant. Eye miniatures or Lovers’ eyes were Georgian miniatures, normally watercolour on ivory, depicting the eye or eyes of a spouse, loved one or child. PUBLIC DOMAIN

Lovers’ Eyes Miniatures were fashionable in the Georgian era, beginning from the 1790s until the 1820s. They were commissioned pieces and were normally watercolour on ivory and depicted the eye or eyes of a loved one. They could be found on bracelets, brooches, pendants, rings and other trinkets such as the lids of toothpick containers and small boxes. They sometimes contained locks of hair, incorporated into the portrait itself or placed behind glass or crystal.

The first Lover’s Eye piece is thought to have been sent by the Prince of Wales (later George IV) to the widow Maria Fitzherbert. A miniaturist was commissioned to paint only his eye in order to preserve the secrecy of their relationship. George IV wore Maria Fitzherbert’s eye miniature hidden under his lapel.

This highly romantic, sentimental and original idea appealed greatly to people of the Georgian era. Today, Lover’s Eyes Miniatures are considered highly collectible and fetch very high prices. (NOTE: There is a thriving market in fakes, so please exercise caution if you have the opportunity to purchase one of these lovely items).

We can learn a great deal about antique and vintage jewellery by studying old masterpieces. I hope you enjoy the stunning works below and feel as inspired by them as I do. I choose a few at seeming random but looking at them now as a whole I am struck by the shared sense of calm and grace emanating from the fine lines and sensual colours. I also note a predominance of pearls and ferronières.

Antique 14k Gold Green Gem Snake Ring

Here is wonderful 14 karat (hallmarked) rose gold snake motif ring with a green gem stone (probably an emerald although has not been tested). It has an à jour setting which means the light shines through it beautifully.

Art Deco Enamel Snake Necklace

Here is a rare. wonderful and striking Art Deco lariat necklace with a double snake head motif created in cloisonné enamel. It is created from two serpentine strands – one fixed in place by an enamel band and the other loose