Rustic Stone in Dublin

NY Times has a short takes piece about the next act for chef Dylan McGrath. Following the closing of the well regarded Mint, the chef took a different direction in his voyage.

Making a comeback with a more casual approach, he opened Rustic Stone in August 2010, emphasizing (gasp) healthy cuisine, free of the fatty crutches of butter and cream — and in a location bordering the pub-filled Temple Bar district, where indulgence is king.

The premise is good for can be healthy, and menus can communicate valuable information about choices. The article notes that gluten intolerant diners are offered a range of choices, and somebody who wants a burger can get that, too.

The clinical message of the menu, though, is quickly dispelled by the food itself, which champions epicurean standards in flavor and presentation, featuring robust ingredients meticulously composed, like skinless baby sweet peppers stuffed with avocado and tuna tartare, and beet-root broth with orange sections.

“It must be remembered that there is nothing more difficult to plan, more doubtful of success, nor more dangerous to manage than a new system. For the initiator has the enmity of all who would profit by the preservation of the old institution and merely lukewarm defenders in those who gain by the new ones. ”
― Niccolò Machiavelli