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Hi,
I have a pair of S15 calipers removed from a set of front hubs as I already have larger brakes.
The calipers come with the lines and pads. Good cheap upgrade for S13/R31. There are no discs, but discs are cheap to buy new.
$120 for calipers.
Located in Wollongong (45 min south of Sydney)
Please PM if interested.
Cheers.

Hey guys the issue I'm having is that when I tried fitting up the s15 rear calliper (to replace my rusted seized s13 originals) so I swap over the 180's handbrake levers so they match the cables but the cables are too long now?
Has anyone done this swap before ? Really don't want to have to buy s13 callipers and be spending even more $$...
If this has been covered sorry but nothing came up other then R series conversions etc which I'm not interested in
Cheers
Andy

Hi Boys/Girls,
Thinking of upgrading my rear brakes on my S15.
Looking at a budget upgrade, installing the R33 GTS-T rear rotors & discs.
I have done research and I know that the S15 & R33 use different handbrake set up, I need to install the R33 hand brake cable in my car.
But I just have a few questions:
Q) Will the R33 calipers/rotors fit onto my existing S15 rear hubs?
Q) Will the R33 calipers/rotors clear my standard S15 rims?
Q) I already have braided brake lines on the rear, will these connect to the R33 calipers?
Q) Do I need to upgrade my BMC for this upgrade?
At the moment I have standard S15 brakes front and rear, only upgrades are slotted rotors on the front, QFM A1RM brakes pads and braided lines.
Any info would be appreciated

I've noticed that I seem to be getting a bit of a grove being worn into my front rotors
Its the same on both left and right rotors and I'm pretty sure that its also happening to the inside of rotor that you cant see unless the wheel is off and you stick your hear under/finger to look and feel for it.
From what the previous owner told them the pads are Ferodo DS2500 but I am unsure of the rotors. Thinking they are either DBA or RDA slotted ones
I know that when I bought the car a little over 12,000k ago I was told that all the pads were brand new and they looked it as there was plenty of meat on them when I looked at them.
I haven't done any track days yet other than some happy laps at QR. However happy laps are pretty tame on the cars brakes unlike doing something like sprints.
The only other thing worth mentioning is that the brakes are have been very squeaky and noisy from day 1 that I owned the car, however this is only an issue when applying very light pressure to the brakes at low speeds. Otherwise they seem pretty much normal, I was thinking that the previous owner probably didn't bother to apply any silicone or high temp grease to the non braking side of the pad.
There still looks to be plenty of pad left so I am confused as to why this is happening

So i took the my s14a for a good drive yesterday (first real test since building it) through the hills and started to get some pretty bad brake fade.
Before heading out, i did have some brake issue with the brake pedal needing to be pressed all the way down before engaging the brakes. I had bled the brakes twice before but still felt like it had air in the system? I've checked for leaks and all is good. Rotors also look good, look recently machined. Also when pumping the brakes, you can hear air being pumped like from a bicycle pump, is this a normal sound? Since yesterday the brakes squeal like a b*tch when pulling up, even just daily slow driving once heated up. Trying to figure out how to fix this problem??
Im running:
ABS removed
BMC44 master cylinder
S14 (4 pot) front brakes (drilled rotors)
R32 GTR (2 pot) rear brakes (solid rotors)
Unknown new pads all round (came with car)
Penrite Super Dot 4 brake fluid
Also I have been bleeding the brakes from the calipers only thus far, furthest one to closest as usual. But a friend has told me to try bleeding from the master cylinder first so ill give that a try when i get a chance. I've never had to do this way before but is this the right method, bmc first, then calipers as usual?

Evening all. I had R32 GTR non brembo rotors and calipers on my old car. Now I have an S15 and am of the opinion that the front rotors could do with replacing. Seeing as though the rotors from my old car weren't used for very long I see no reason why I can't use them on my S15.
The questions I have is, since the GTR rotors are 2mm thicker than the S15 rotors, will this mean they are not compatible with S15 calipers? 2mm seems like absolutely nothing, but then again, I am not clear on what the clearance tolerances are like on the brakes.
Is it OK to use my old rotors on my S15?

So I am doing an R32 rear brake upgrade on my S13 but keeping the hubs 4 stud.
Already got everything I need but the old discs are rooted so going to replace with new ones. The problem is I need them re-drilled from 5x114.3 to 4x114.3.
Has anyone local had this done or do they know anyone who can do it?

The GKTECH braided brake lines are a direct replacement of the factory lines and are stronger (read: more reliable) than the factory rubber lines which are prone to breaking but they also eliminate the spongy feel of the standard brake lines. The front lines are also longer to compensate for big brake setups or cars with more steering lock (which would see stretching with the factory line)
The brake lines are manufactured in the UK specifically for GKTECH and they comply with all DOT, TUV, and ADR specifications.
Vehicle Compatibility:
- Nissan S13 Silvia
- Nissan 180sx
- Nissan S14 200SX
- Nissan S15 200SX
- Nissan Skyline R32 GST-T
- Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T
INTRO PRICE @ $119.20 for a full SET!!!
Purchase here: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-braided-brake-lines-front-rear-set-intro-price.html?SID=e2a51fefe979df0fc8060bb27463fb9a

So I am thinking of upgrading brakes on my S13 Silvia. I already have S15 4 pots on the front which made a huge difference but now the brake balance is up the creek, wants to lock fronts all the time.
I thinking a new Brake Master cylinder (BM50 or BM57) and adding skyline rear brakes to get a more consistent handbrake and better rear braking for track work.
The problem is I already have 3 good sets of 4 stud wheels so i want to retain 4 stud hubs.
Can this be done and if so what do I need?
From memory the R32 N/As had 4 stud hubs, do these just bolt up? I am assuming I need the knuckle, brake caliper, discs and hub?

Hey all, just thought I would very quickly ask this here, yes it's an obvious question but hey it's not the only one.
So a while ago I changed my brake pads on my daily from whatever was perviously on it to Bendix HDs. But it feels really really spongey now, so is the best way to fix this by sanding the pads back a little bit incase they've 'glazed' over? This is likely the case (glazing) as the night I did them I ended up going through the hills so they probably heated up too quickly before they wore in. So yes is that the best solution to sand them back a bit or does anyone else have any other ideas.
Ps this is a problem all the time not just under excessive braking such as hills etc. ie it's a problem at those awkward orange -> red lights, or just pulling up behind someone, super sponge and not much response (in comparison to previously). And I do not believe it is due to going to lesser brake pads.
Cheers
Unrelated Pic just incase this was disappointing read.

I'm getting to the point where my S14A is fairly complete and I want to improve some of the existing key parts, it's just going to take some saving between each one. Usage of the car is 1 lap street sprints up to 5 lap circuit sprints. It's still street registered and full weight. I haven't done a while lot of events in the car, upgrades won't be at the cost of seat time. Current mods are listed further down, the 3 next major outlays I'm choosing between are:
Coilovers: Upgrade HSD 7/5 coilovers to KW v3 6/4 coilovers. I've chosen these over the Koni/Bilstein options for a few reasons including no binding issues with Z32 uprights, but mainly because I can just order and install vs sourcing parts and assembling konis. Net cost approx $1700.
Calipers: Upgrade standard gear to Wilwood Forged Superlites with 310mm 2 piece curved vane rotors. These are quite a bit lighter and replacement rotors/pads are cheap. Will help with temps and fade resistance in longer sprints, not so much the 1 lap sprints. Cost approx $1000.
Diff: Swap S15 HLSD 4.08 ratio to 1.5 way 4.3 ratio to improve traction through and out of corners. Approx $700.
Current mods:
Engine- Currently 230rwkw, needs a tune to get around 250rwkw. Not enough E85 availability here to change over. Cooling is good (typically runs 68-73 degrees), engine is reliable (forged internals, all quality parts and accessories).
Wheels/tyres- Nitto NT-01 255/40/17 on Enkei RPF-01 17x9+22. Better semis would be worth a few seconds but I'll upgrade these when the current set are done. Have ordered a tire pyrometer to assist setup.
Driveline- S15 HLSD with 4.08 ratio, Exedy clutch, standard tailshaft and flywheel (will upgrade these to lightweight items next time clutch needs replacing)
Braking- Standard calipers with A1RM pads and DBA solid face rotors front, TRW pads rear, braided lines, master cylinder stopper, will make some air deflectors
Suspension- HSD HR coilover 7/5 springs, Whiteline swaybars, strut bars, all adjustable arms (Neotech & GKtech) except LCAs, have ordered subframe risers, awaiting GKtech knuckle development to correct front roll centre
Interior- Bride fixed back bucket seat, Power FC & AVCR for monitoring, have ordered lap timing gear
Aero- CWest wing, vented bonnet, will fabricate splitter/undertray/air dams after next event
Stolen pic from last event (awaiting originals from photographer)

Hey guys, i have what was a CA18DET 180sx that I'm building into a track oriented SR20DET Sileighty, still street legal though. (first time I've done any sort of work on a car)
I've been wanting to upgrade the brakes since the CA18 discs are tiny. I went to put some SR20DET discs on for now, but they don't fit in the baffle plate.
Do i need to need to keep the baffle plate? Can it just be flattened out a bit to fit the discs?
I also tried to remove the plate but I couldn't work out how it was attached and it wouldn't budge from where it was.

Hi all,
I am currently looking at buying an evo 7. One thing I have noticed on 2 of the ones I have looked at is that they had gold brembos on them similar to the STi brakes. I was under the impression that all evos came out with red brembos. Is this a factory option? Or aftermarket? Or have they been painted?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ian

Hey all, My car is a RB26 Cefi with s14 hubs/brakes etc. what happend is i was getting my disc machined and the machine f**ked up and cut WAY too much off one of the discs.(was being done for free so don't want to make them pay)
So i was gonna get new discs when my mate told me i could have the brakes off his R32 wreck.
Can i just use his discs with my calipers, or should i take the whole setup off his car or even just buy new discs for what ive already got? im leaning towards taking the whole brake system off the skyline. your thoughts?