Anyway, I had the tongue support on a wood block and the TM unhitched (and wheels chocked),

Hmmm, the TM should not have moved if it was chocked correctly. So, I have to ask: "How did you chock the wheels?"

I always get the TM where I want it, place the chocks in back of both tires, then back up a bit to put pressure on the rear chocks and then shove the front chocks up tight against the front of the tire. Then I put the TV in neutral and let the TM wheels settle between the two chocks. That makes sure there is plenty of pressure on the chocks, both in front and behind the tires.

And if you did that, well then I can't figure out why the TM moved and the tongue support slipped off the block...

Keith, I didn't know that's how you were supposed to chock the wheels and that's really good to know. I just jammed the chocks behind and in front of the wheels by hand and tried to get them as tight as I could. Thx for telling me how you do it.

I just picked up my TM 2720 SL last weekend. On the way home we stopped for the night. Still hooked up to the truck. So site was pretty level and put down the stabilizer jacks. Raised the front, raised the rear, slid out the sofa, slid out the bed, set up the counter cabinet, put up the sink cabinet, setup the bathroom and latched the door. All went well the first night out. On Sunday, we are heading home, stopped in a service area and had to do a turn around. Wife driving turned a little too hard and a big crack comes from the towing area of the trailer. STOP!! Get out and look everything is still hooked up, EBA cable looks like it is where it belongs and on the road again. Stop in a service area about 115 miles from home and everything still rolling great. Get home and park by the house and the wife is YELLING Get out of the truck and come back here!!!!! So jump out of the truck, run around the passenger side of the TM and there is smoke billowing out of the wheel well, wheel bearing grease slung all over the wheel and the bearing cap is missing!! Get the water hose fast!!! Pull the hose over the yard fence, have the wife pull off the little master locks holding down the front and back lock down latches on the corners, release the lower latches that hold the top and bottom to the spring arms, raise the front, raise the back, pull the skirt off the wheel well the whole time spraying water on the brakes drum and the wheels... Finally smoke gone inside of the TM is safe, and take a breath!!!
Look around the TM and find the EBA cable pulled out and the lock key is not on the end of the cable. Where is it??? Somewhere between our last stop and home.... Now that is a Fire Drill!!! It is Sunday my birthday, the wife's birthday was the day before and my wife turns around and say's Happy Birthday Honey! Sheeze... So call an RV repair shop Monday to find out how the key would have come out of the EBA all by itself still hooked to the tow vehicle... Short answer long, the cable that pulls the key is too short to reach the tow vehicle with enough slack not to pull out during a turn. Now all of the bearings, brakes and axle stuff being looked at and waiting on a price to repair. Lower hatch latches being replaced to pull the two halves down tighter to close the seal on the front half.

Be very careful how tight you close the roofs with those corner latches. The screws may and will pull out of the metal side. When that happens, you've got a deformed hole to repair and find a longer lag screw to attach the latch. The corners latches are nothing other than a safety latch, not a pull down latch.

Be very careful how tight you close the roofs with those corner latches. The screws may and will pull out of the metal side. When that happens, you've got a deformed hole to repair and find a longer lag screw to attach the latch. The corners latches are nothing other than a safety latch, not a pull down latch.

+1 on rvcycleguy's advice. If your shells are not closing properly, then your torsion bars or trailer lift arms might be out of adjustment.

Yes that part I know. When you adjust the hook to latch the corners it will pull the plate away from the body. The latches I am referring to are the ones with the pull handle that hold down the top and the bottom near the door area. One of them vibrated off during the trip home. I ordered them from the Trailmanor manufacturer. The bolts are rusty and I am sure that the tension spring bars need adjustment. This is my first TM. I owned a Hi-Lo that I sold before I bought this one. The reason being that I needed more room not more weight. The TM offers me that luxury. If I went with the Hi-lo plan the longest unit I could pull would be the 22 Towlite which really does not have the floor plan that I was looking for. This is a great unit it just needs a little TLC. The top seal does not come all the way down on the front of the unit to really seal it from the weather. I need to put new hatch latch downs to adjust it to seal. We are rolling into winter in Michigan and again I am going to have to figure out a way to have the snow clear off the roof while it is closed with a cover that will let the snow drain away from the roof while it is at the storage lot. So many things to do. My wife loves the sofa and the lazy chair with a small living room. The shower unit is fabulous and everything everyone said it was on the forum. So I am going to be asking numerous more questions to get this unit ready for winter. Can you use the water pump to winterize the water lines like you do in a normal RV?

Unit is fully winterized. Now all I have to do is take my new cover down to the storage lot and cover my unit. How well do the propane tanks hold up to cold winters? There are 3 bolts holding each tank in position. Should I remove them for the winter?