Open a new canvas (make it large, so you have plenty of space) and draw a rectangle the size you want your notebook paper to be with your Preset rectangle tool (foreground colour closed, background colour of choice). Convert to raster and apply any effects you wish (a paper texture, lines, etc.) I used a paper texture from Filters Unlimited, Mura’s Cloud filter and the Jeux des Lignes/Entrelacement filter. Duplicate, and move it beside the other rectangle, leaving a small space between them.

Add a new raster layer and with your Preset tool set at circle, draw a circle between the two papers the size you want your binder to be (foreground white, background closed, line width depending on the size of your papers). Convert to raster, and then carefully erase the lower two-thirds. Apply a metal effect. Add a new raster layer and move it under the binder layer. Add a small circle of medium to dark grey colour under the two ends of the binder with yout Paintbrush tool (size slightly larger than the size of your binder). Close the two paper layers, merge visible, then you can open your paper layers again.

Add a new raster layer, then Layers – Arrange – Send to bottom. With your selection tool set at Rectangle draw out a rectangle the size of your two papers starting from the corner of one paper. Selections – Modify – Select selection borders (use the both sides option) and expand by the number of pixels you want your cover to be, then on the bottom layer fill with colour of choice. Select none, then with your selection tool draw around the part between the two papers and fill with the same colour. Apply any effects you wish to the cover layer (I used PSP’s fine leather texture and a slight paper texture from Filters Unlimited). You can also add a slight bevel.

Duplicate your binder as many times as you wish and move into position.

You now have a basic notebook. You can now add decorative corners to the cover, duplicate one of the pages and curl it, add some text. etc.

Open a new raster layer and with your Preset tool set at rectangle, draw a rectangle the size you want your frame to be (foreground colour or pattern of choice, background closed, line width depending on the size of your frame). Add any effects you want to and a very slight bevel. When you’re happy with your frame, Layers – Duplicate and keeping the frames on separate layers, move them beside each other keeping a small gap between them.

Add a new raster layer. Draw a line across the two frames roughly the size you want your stitch to be (round ended line style, colour white, width depending on the size of the frame and the size of your stitch). Convert to raster. Select all – Float – Defloat, then use the Eye Candy 5: Texture / Texture Noise filter to add some texture. I used the Crumpled tissue setting. Or you can use the Paper Textures/ Fine Canvas filter of Filters Unlimited for some texture depth or the Texturizer filter. Select none. Adjust – Manual colour correction and colourize to a colour complementing your frame.

Now Image – Free rotate – Right and set the Free option at 45 (uncheck the All layers options and Rotate single layer option). Layers – Duplicate, then Image – Mirror. Now move your stitches in the position you want them to be relative to the frame. Close your two frame layers and merge visible, then you can turn on the frame layers again.

Add a new raster layer and drag it below your stitch layer. Choose a medium greyish colour and a round brush tip to draw four dots under your stitches with the Paintbrush tool (size depending on the size of your stitch). Close the two frame layers and merge visible, then turn on the frame layers again. You can add a slight drop shadow to the stitch, if necessary.

Duplicate your stitches as many times as you wish and move them into the position you want them to be. You can now either merge visible or use the Pick tool to give some perspective to your frame, and then merge visible.

Open a new image 300 by 300 pixels and with draw a circle with your preset tool (background and foreground colour of choice). Objects – Align center in canvas. Convert to raster.

Choose another preset shape or ding of choice and draw out your shape (use a contrasting colour), making it smaller than your button. Objects – Align center in canvas, or use the move tool to position it. Convert to raster. Click on an empty area with your magic wand (tolerance set to 0), then Selections – Invert. Go to your button layer and hit delete. Select none. You can now either delete or close your shape layer.

Add a bevel, either using PSP’s bevel effect or the Eye Candy Bevel filter.

Draw the holes on a separate layer. Selections -Select all – Float – Defloat, hit delete, then go to your button layer and hit delete again. Keep selected, add a new layer, and add a slight cut-out. Select none, merge visible, and you’re done. You can now add stitches to the button or decorate it using another ding.

Open a new canvas, 600 pixels by 600 pixels to give you plenty of space. Draw a frame the size you wnat it to be with your Rectangle preset shape (foreground colour white or colour of choice, background colour closed off). Make it fairly wide because that gives better results (i had my line width set at 70). Convert to raster and apply any effects you wish to.

I used a Super Blade Pro preset for the left one and a photo of a rusty surface for the other one.

Select – Select all – Float – Defloat, then Distortion effects – Curlicues. I used the follwoing settings: Number of columns: 4, Number of rows: 4, Radius: 100, Sttength 100, Symmetric unchecked, Clockwise: checked for the one on the left, and 3 columns, 3 rows, Radius set at 77 and Strength at 100 for the one on the right.

Select none, and then carefully erase the curls. Add an inner bevel using PSP’s own bevel effect or using the Eye Candy beveli filter and you’re done.

TOU

Very simple: you may do whatever you wish with anything you create from my tutorials.
The only thing I ask is that you don't claim the tutorials as your own and please don't script them (the idea is to learn to make stuff on your own, using your own imagination).

The scraps I make are for personal use only, please don't use them commercially or include them in another kit.

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