Neither as formal and refined as Richard’s flagship Citronelle nor as casual as his bistro, Central, Michel is a plush, plum-hued playpen for the chef’s distinctive, razor-edged, relentlessly witty dishes. Prices are high, and the mood is a bit stiffer than it ought to be, given the playfulness of the cooking, but it’s already worth a trip from DC or Maryland, and in time it could take its place among the ten best restaurants in the region.

Richard got his start as a pastry chef, and the ten sweets on the dessert menu—including a fabulous marjolaine cake and a Richard creation called Celebration Cake, complete with a sparkling candle that resembles a tire flare—make up one of the best finishes around.