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CST25GRBEWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CST25GRBEWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.

1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections. - now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.9. Attach electrical lines.- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?12. Unplug fridge13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.15. Plug fridge back in.16. Take a clean glass.17. Fill with water from the front.18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.

The refrigerator door side of the side-by-side refrigerator/freezer, bottom cams that auto close the door were broken.

First, I removed all items on the door shelves and the shelves themselves to reduce the weight of the door. Second, I removed the cover on the top hinge assembly and removed the two screws that secured that hinge. Third I lifted the door from the bottom hinge assembly and placed the door horizontal on the kitchen table to all easier access to the bottom of the door. I then removed two screws holding the door closing cam and shim and replaced them with the new parts. Next was to removed the old hinge assembly on the refrigerator itself and replace it with a new hinge assembly. All down hill from this point. Time to reinstall the door, aligning the bottom of the door cam over the hinge assembly and setting the door down on it making sure the door sets on the hinge assembly cams. To the top of the refrigerator. reinstalled the top door hinge assembly and cover, job complete. Total time from start to finish including cleaning the inside of the door and shelves about 30 minutes.

As for the replacing of the light lens in the freezer section. This was almost to easy. I removed the ice drawer from the freezer which exposed the one phillips screw that holds the lens in place. Removed the screw and what was left of the old lens, inserted the new lens from the underneath the ice drawer compartment and screw, replaced the ice drawer and, the task was complete. Total time about 5 minutes.

Refrigerator temp was warm

Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer compartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.

First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.

Ice cubes do not dispense because auger does not turn. Bad switch on control board.

1) Turn off water line and unplug power.2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area.3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place.4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs.5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap.6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing.7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer.8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs.9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws.10) Install front panel plate (pops on).11) Plug in power and turn on water line.

Sticking Light Switch

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

First I took a beer out and opened it then took a sip. Then I went into my garage and searched for my Black and Decker power drill with a phililps head on it. Failure to locate a phillips head bit i took another sip of beer and took out one of those old fashion screw drivers. I went back into the kitchen and much to my dismay the fridge didnt fix itself. After another sip of beer I took the old slide out and took it to the outside garbage. On my way around the house my neighbor started to mock my home fix-it skills and his back yard became the new home for the broken slide. I put the new slide in, reinstalled the drawer, and filled it with beer.

Refirgerator side started to get warm. Soon after the freezer side started to thaw.

Repair was very easy. First, be sure to turn the appliance off. I removed the 5 screws holding the panel in the back of the freezer. I used a hair dryer to thaw the condenser coils so I could access the heater and related wiring. I removed the 2 screws holding the heater in place and unplugged the heater. Plugged in the new heater and replaced everything in reverse order. I then cut the 2 wires to the defrost thermostat and removed it. I attached the new thermostat to the wires with wire nuts. Then replaced the cover in the freezer and turned everything back on. It is important to use the hair dryer to remove the ice from the condenser coils.

ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.

I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple. Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.

Ice maker stopped working

I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.

My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".

Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.

-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain all water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!

solenoid opened ice trap door at random

Unplug the refrigeratorFront cover of ice dispenser snaps off. Remove the 4 screws from the ice chute. Unplug the control module that opens the ice chute. Leave hanging while removing the 4 screws that hold the solenoid in place.(one is a ground wire...note location before taking apart). Unplug the two wires to the solenoid.To install the new solenoid put the plunger in place and at the same time hook on the trip arm of the clapper door of the ice chute. Plug in the two wires to the new solenoidReplace the 4 screws.Plug in the Control modules and screw back in placePlug in the refrigerator. Do a trial test.Replace the cover