Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

Originally Posted by Untouchable11

good work so far man.... you still won't be as loud as my Atlas...lol... j/k

Nice work man... Why not go with Titebond III?

lol i would have gone with the woodshop's blend, but they were closed for some reason....anyway, i saw that the quart of II was actually cheaper than the smaller bottle of III. i actually have some III left over from milenko's SX15 box, but i don't want to use it on projects for me cause its $$$

Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

Originally Posted by lemans23

ooh good tip bro, how much and where can u get those?

Home centers in the drill bit area. Just get the drill bit size that mates to the screws
you use. Not too big otherwise the screw won't bite, not too tiny otherwise the
wood splits. I can't really tell you how to do this, I just eye ball the drill next
to the screw and pick something that is smaller, perhaps a drill size that is about
the same size of the screw shaft only not threads. Try half the screw diameter.

The best way to do boxes if you axe me.

*Cut the wood and double check the dimension by holding it next to the wood
to glue to. Just hold it in place and do a quick eye check to make sure your cuts
are perfect.

*Predrill the wood with the countersinking bit, spread the holes out evenly.
Use a scrap piece of wood underneath to reduce chipout and so you don't
ruin the drill bit if you hit concrete. [if you are drilling the hole on the floor].

*Use some finish nails and pre-nail the areas between the holes you drilled.

*Add glue to both pieces of wood being nailed together.

*Have someone help you hold the wood while you nail the panel in place.

*Use the countersinking drill and redrill the hole, but now you drill deeper.

*Install the screws.

*Use a punch to hit the nail deeper and use putty to fill it.

This method probably doesn't make sense.

When you pre-nail and pre-countersink/drill, it makes the wood fit perfect without
wander. When you nail the wood first and have the wood held in place, the
wood will not drift as you use the hammer and the joint is in perfect alignment.

When you predrill next, the drill bit won't shift the wood panel because the
nails are already installed.

Plan B. If you feel skilled, skip the pre-drill step and do it last after you nail the wood.

These are extra steps but you will save alot of time on sanding because if you
do it right, there is very little. Just wipe off the excess glue with a damp rag
after you are done. Don't let it dry in blobs.

Re: Dayton Titantic 15" MkIII worklog *pics*

thylantr, i TECHNICALLY do have a table saw, but i'm not using it anymore for projects because it is truly a POS. the cuts arent straight and the motor is weaker than gary coleman on THE GRIP. i also do not own a nail gun (looking at this ****** bostich package ) but I will go get that drill bit as soon as these morons stop cleaning my mother's fish tank.