Hey guy's, Anyone ever find a solution to the tail wheel misalignment issue on this bird? After finally fitting the rudder wire through the tiny grommet, the tail wheel is not even close to being lined up with the rudder. I'm stumped!! Please help!

I recently snagged up one of these birds since everyone raves about how much fun they are to fly, AND because they are going away quickly. As I am a long time static modeler I will be doing a repaint/refit and installing some carbon fiber reinforcing. Will post pics as soon as I get it from the Fed-Ex truck.
I've read through 95% of the forum here and picked up a few great tips. I will be adding an Orange RS3X rx, and maybe a 25a speed controller. The stock SC seems to work just fine, and I am waiting to get exact measurements of the battery bay before I do too much cutting/battery planing.
Nice to post and not lurk for a change!

Congrats on your addition. It really is a fabulous little plane, and will look even better after you're done putting your skills to it. Flying is where it is just the best, tho; it flies so willingly and easily that I'm sometimes a little surprised how much we all love to do mods to it. I'm certainly guilty of that, and the plane continues to fly superbly in spite of it.

Not the best choice on a windy (+6 mph) day, but it'll do it. In smooth still air, low passes will make the hair on your neck stand right up. This is a great airplane.

Spoonman,
I too used the RS3X. The Orange instructions say to keep it at the center of gravity with one of the antenna pointing straight ahead. By following these instructions, that meant that the antenna was almost touching the ESC. I had two brown outs resulting in trips through the corn field to fetch the little bird out. I gave up the RS3X for a regular Rx which could be placed in a better location. Since then no trouble. It is carrying more glue now though................

The ArtTech is light and loves to fly that way. ANY weight you add will detract from the fun.

Thats what I have gathered from both here and a few other sources. Hopefully the carbon fiber reinforcement will give it a tad bit more weight, but not too much so as she can't perform what I want her to perform (scale warbird flight, not aerobatics).
I really think the only upgrade I will make is possibly the speed controller, and of course the paint. I am a stickler for authenticity, or at least plausibility, thus the Navy/Marine combo has to go! I'm thinking of doing a Skyboss replica. I have seen a metric ton of Lucybelle's, and Kepford's, and solid blue Korean era birds, but I have not seen anyone (at least on the Art-Tech) do the blue/white Checkered Skyboss. I may fail miserably, but thats my plan.

Thank you grouser for the info, wish I knew that prior to buying the RS3X.
However I remember a post in this thread that showed moving the ESC up into the engine bay for better cooling. That may be a possibility since it would put a space/foam between the ESC and the RX. Plus, I intend to stay with the 1300 (or 1500mah at max) battery, thus I should be ok with the weight distribution which would factor in the added weight of the little carbon fiber rods. for the tail/rudder etc..

Hi All,
My HK Corsair arrived to day so it's straight in to the shed when I get home. Any tips for set up as there doesn't seem to be any info included in the box? I've had a wander around this thread but I'm still in the dark over where the COG should be. I'll be flying with a 1300 bat.

I balance mine near the servo wires in the wings. The mods I recommend are making a cut out from the top of the battery hatch to be able to change batteries from the top and reinforcing the vertical stabilizer. The battery hatch on the bottom is a pain and the vertical stab is really flimsy. This is a really nice little flier, not too fast but extremely nimble but the foam is brittle and it will be thrown around on windy days because it is so light.