b20 with a b16a sir2 head

i have been looking to get more power out of my motor, i got a b16a sir2 in a 1997 civic, hondata s200 chipped ecu, and a edelbrock throttle body, it puts out 166 whp and only 113 wtq, and i was wondering what i could do to get more power out of it for a reasonable price. and a guy told me if i took the b20 block out of a crv and put my b16 head and tranny onto it and dropped it back down in the car id be putting out 225 @ the wheels easily. is this true? any suggestions or comment would be appreciated.

ok so ive been on the internet researching about this build for the last week or so. and i plan on putting the 12.0:1 je pistons in the block with shotpeened stock rods and a polished knife edged and balanced stock crank. also putting aftermarket itm valves, valve springs and retainers all most likely going to be skunk2. now the big queston i have is to do with the cam. i have the ctr head so would a cam change be nessecary? i want the most possible power that i can get, but im worried about buying the stage 2 skunk2 cam and putting it in and not having any clearance between the valves and pistons. in which case i would be fucked havin a 700 dollar cam and no motor to put it in. what would be the best cam for this setup? or am i going at this wrong?

First, don't knife edge or balance the crank. Just have it micro polished if need be. Second, look for other brands of valve train components. Look at what else is out there, not just the big name, main stream stuff. Third, IMO you should just keep the CTR cams and spend that money on other things. Finally you can adjust the piston to valve clearance with some adjustable cam gears.

if you have a B16A SiR-II you do not have a CTR head, just to be clear.

you could benifit also from a mild port and polish. with a flowbench, and your tuner's experiance, choose a mild cam that will give you decent idle and low end torque as well as overall power. dont forget the header also. you'll want something like a hytech or hytech replica, or comporable quality/performance. DC sports doesnt cut it.

b20 block. and does that mean that i basically have the same head that comes on a 1999-2000 si? what does the ctr head come on then? b16b? and if i dont have the ctr head that would mean that i dont have the ctr cam... correct?..... and i would need to get an aftermarket cam? i was also looking at the buddy club spec 3 i believe is what it was also.cant exaclty remeber ive looked at to many pages of shit. im starting to try and figure out what i need so i can save my money and get these parts this winter and assemble it all for next summer

the CTR head is on the B16B motor. the CTR motor is the B16B. The head you have is not the same as a 99-00 Si because that is OBD2. the main difference that gives the SiR-II motor more power than the 99-00 B16A2 is the increased conmpression, which is 10.4:1 compared to the A2's 10.2:1, which is dictated by pistons. Other wise the head is basicly the same, minus sensors.

the CTR cams and valvetrain are interchangeable into the SiR-II head you have. used CTR cams should suit you fine. going into aftermarket cams, you want to have an understanding of the cam profile. what effects lift and duration have on the combustion in the chamber. you could go with something a little more agressive than the CTR cams in an aftermarket solution, but too agressive and your idle will suffer.

gotcha. and yes i realize i have two cams. im not that dumb. i do know a little about engines. mostly about methanol driven sbc's though. im learning. so basically if i go with a mild cam something in the middle of the range. i should be fine by just adjusting the cam gears to obtain clearances if needed? and i will have enough horsepower/torque to keep me happy? anything else to help get the power up?

the CTR cams and valvetrain are interchangeable into the SiR-II head you have. used CTR cams should suit you fine. going into aftermarket cams, you want to have an understanding of the cam profile. what effects lift and duration have on the combustion in the chamber. you could go with something a little more agressive than the CTR cams in an aftermarket solution, but too agressive and your idle will suffer.

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Werd, you really dont need to go aftermarket. Its expensive, and you can get great results with a CTR valvetrain which can be had for cheaper. And like I said earlier the money you save on cams can go to one of the things YBLEGAL suggested, like a tune or header, or even some port work on your head. Remember tho, no matter how well the engine is built, its nothin without a tune to match it.

gotcha. and yes i realize i have two cams. im not that dumb. i do know a little about engines. mostly about methanol driven sbc's though. im learning. so basically if i go with a mild cam something in the middle of the range. i should be fine by just adjusting the cam gears to obtain clearances if needed? and i will have enough horsepower/torque to keep me happy? anything else to help get the power up?

First, don't knife edge or balance the crank. Just have it micro polished if need be. Second, look for other brands of valve train components. Look at what else is out there, not just the big name, main stream stuff. Third, IMO you should just keep the CTR cams and spend that money on other things. Finally you can adjust the piston to valve clearance with some adjustable cam gears.

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Knife edging the crankshaft is not a good idea, but balancing is. As far as micropolishing, thats not a good idea either for it removes a coating on the journals and would require different bearing sizes. A polish is good, if needed, but not a micropolish.

Knife edging the crankshaft is not a good idea, but balancing is. As far as micropolishing, thats not a good idea either for it removes a coating on the journals and would require different bearing sizes. A polish is good, if needed, but not a micropolish.

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I've always been told not to balance the crank because Honda does such a fine job of it in the factory. I was aware of the journal coating, thats why I told him to micropolish it only if necessary. You say theres a difference between a polish and micropolish? I guess I didnt know that, would you care to explain what that is?

ok so tuning is the biggest thing.....of course. im currently using the p28 ecu with a hondata s200 is this good enough to tune the motor to its full potential. also what size injectors would be recommened? im currently using a cheapo ebay header but my plan all along was to do this right and that includes a new header from a reputable company. i already have a 2.5 exhaust with no cat but a resognator and a rsr titanium oval canister off of a 1991 toyota celica. so i think im good there.

Hondata will allow you to tune your motor just fine. As for the injectors, poke around the RC Engineering web site. Theres a calculator there where you input you build parameters and it will tell you what size injector you need to run. Its all based off HP, displacement, and a few other factors. Dont stop there tho, read through the FAQ section and the product descriptions. The best way to learn about parts is from their manufacturer.

you know theres only one way to really learn anything and thats to do it urself because other than that u dont really know when somebody is feeding you a line of shit unless youve already been through it.. i mean im takin in all ideas and ill have my own plot at the end of this. but im kinda asking questions to get answers that i need to get further into this. so stopping now isn't my plan at all. but i got 6 more months to research this. so ill definatinely have more questions. i appreciate all the answers ive gotten so far. anybody know anything about the toda spec b cam? i saw on another site that it had great midrange like 4500 to 8000? with the stock rod and pistons i figure thats prob all the higher the motor would want to be reved and getting a cam thats meant for 8500 would do me no good.

First, don't knife edge or balance the crank. Just have it micro polished if need be. Second, look for other brands of valve train components. Look at what else is out there, not just the big name, main stream stuff. Third, IMO you should just keep the CTR cams and spend that money on other things. Finally you can adjust the piston to valve clearance with some adjustable cam gears.

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Yes ,you can adjust valve to piston clearance with cam gears ,but this is not what the gears were intented for .They are used to adjust the timing of the valve opening and closing ,if you are using them to get clearance you are probably not going to get optimal timing of your valves

Yes ,you can adjust valve to piston clearance with cam gears ,but this is not what the gears were intented for .They are used to adjust the timing of the valve opening and closing ,if you are using them to get clearance you are probably not going to get optimal timing of your valves

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Would you care to enlighten me, and tell me how you would go about adjusting you piston to valve clearance then?

Im still lost on this whole deal. I understand, Blanco, you say use the gears to adjust your clearance, but I dont understand, powderman, how else you can adjust the clearance. I also dont understand what you would do in the case that you cant adjust your gears to get the clearance you want. Thicker head gasket? Is there no other mechanicle adjustment that can be made?