If you have the capability of using the AES/EBU interface
with your digital equipment, I highly recommend using it vs. digital coaxial
cable (S/PDIF). In my experience the digital AES/EBU works significantly
better in all system configurations I have tried, including my
current system. These IC's still remain my reference.

Step 1) Measure an appropriate amount of cable for your IC
plus 6". Remove the blue jacket and liberate the twisted pairs from their
PVC bondage :-).Step 2) Segregate the twisted pair with the least amount
of twists per inch. In my cable it was the green pair.Step 3) Take the polyester yarn and wind it around the
twisted pair along its length until you have built up just enough thickness
for the wire + yarn to be eventually pulled through the 1/4 O.D. Polyethylene
tubing.Step 4) Cut the Polyethylene tubing to desired finished
length.Step 5) Fish one of the other (previously removed) pairs
of wire down the tubing until about 2" is sticking out the other side.
This wire will be used to pull the wire (with the yarn on it) through the
tubing.Step 6) Pull the wire with the yarn on it through the
tubing by using the wire inside the tubing in Step 5. The wire with the
yarn on it should be relatively snug, but still able to be pulled through
with ease. Pull until you have pigtails of the wire with yarn sticking
out of each tubing end. Discard the "fish" wire.Step 7) Trim wire length and strip for termination. Terminate
both ends with the Neutrik XLR's. You will not need to use Pin 1 (ground).Step 8) Plug them in and enjoy!

I did not find that these needed alot of break-in time,
but your system may be different. I also use mine unshielded, however you
may want to shield yours by doing this:

Before you terminate, take some aluminum foil (like Reynolds
Wrap) and cut into long 1" strips. Wind these strips of aluminum foil around
the PE tubing in a "mummy wrap" style. Make sure to overlap the foil so
you get 100% coverage of HF heebie-jeebies- you should have about 2 layers. Starting at the load end of
the IC, tape a bare copper wire (about 24 ga.) to the end of the tubing
and proceed to wind the wire around the foil, about one complete spiral
for every 3 inches or so. Terminate this drain wire to the source
end XLR only at the ground (usually Pin 1). The other end of the drain
wire should not be terminated. Sensitivity of digital signals to EMI problems associated with ground loops is at least as critical (if not more so) than analogue systems- so DON'T connect the load end to ground. If you wish, you may now use expandable
nylon sleeving to give the cable a hi-end look. Finish terminating
the XLR's.

Notes:

* This cable IS NOT the same as Cat5 Cable. The bonded, twisted pairs
of the 1874A are responsible for the tight impedance toleranceand make
it ideal for digital AES/EBU. Regular Cat5 is NOT suitable.

* You may also use copper shielding braid, but you should still use
the foil too. Braid is good for shielding lower frequencies, and foil is
good at HF. Since digital signals are high frequency signals in the MHz
range, foil is the way to go.

If you are looking for an assembled cable, please check out what VH Audio has to offer.

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All content on this site is property of Christopher J. VenHaus copyright
1999-2003, all rights reserved. All images are copyright protected
and may not be distributed in any manner without written permission. I
do not endorse, and expressly forbid attempts to "commercialize" any of
my cable designs for profit, without permission.