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I remember when most people were not wearing helmet biking and skiing. Nowadays it's the other way around and you look stupid not wearing one.. well kind of We just need to change the same for climbing. I get that in the competitions which are all indoor in the gym, may not be as needed, but any outdoor climber knows that it doesn't require much for something to fall on you (or you on something).

http://www.climbing.com/video/climbing-magazines-unscientific-helmet-test/ Climbing magazine just did a whole article on helmet use along with this funny video. I wear a helmet 99% of the time when I am out. Shit happens sometimes I knocked a fist size rock off with the rope today and almost hit my partner. I had a partner take an upside down fall ( 1995) and massive concussion and have worn it since who cares what I look like it is better than a coma.

I never climb without a helmet; I would never have any of my kids climbing without a helmet. I've enough crap bounce off it to know that it's saved me from a few sutures. I also never cycle without a helmet. I've broken two in-half from wipeouts...I would hate to imagine what would have gone down if I hadn't been wearing them. I've met a lot of people eating from tubes and I seem to be having more fun than them. I'm sticking with the helmet.

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Ed Matt" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

Good discussion so far, and the vote is open for 30 days but so far it is pretty one-sided.

I agree about the selectivity issue. As a guide we model putting helmets on during the approach, and leaving them on until away from the cliff. Sure, liability is an obvious issue when guiding, but even in my personal climbing if I don’t wear my helmet on the approach it is packed at the top of my bag and is the very first thing I put on the second I drop pack to gear up. I’ve had size-able near misses at the base of Bombardment, Fun House, Recompense, and the entire Thin Air Face from Saigons to Standard. A dead tree tried to kill be below the North End as well.

As Markvnh said maybe a 16 year old can decide for themselves, I remember climbing Lakeview at Cannon 3 times one summer at 16 years old, never with a helmet... I didn’t know any better.

As for mags, it would be nice to see more super stars rocking lids’, but I’ve never thought mags were the best place to go to learn about climbing safely. Even “Tech Tips” often describe questionable practices. We learn safety from our peers, those with more experience, and guides/instructors. That goes for any high risk sport, not just climbing...

I used a helmet for several years when I started in high school, the Joe Brown that was popular then. It really screwed with my proprioception so I've never used one since. Any suggestion for the model a non-helmet wearer might tolerate? My daughter is going to be wearing one so I guess i need to set a good example.

I don't wear one for mountain biking either Strandman, but my mountain biking is pretty pedestrian and I never fall. Can't say the same about climbing.

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DLottmann

I used a helmet for several years when I started in high school, the Joe Brown that was popular then. It really screwed with my proprioception so I've never used one since. Any suggestion for the model a non-helmet wearer might tolerate?

I had to google “proprioception”... what a word. I really don’t think any modern helmets can effect your “personal perception”... if it is light weight and ventilated you get used to it really quick. I wore a Petzl Elios for the last 10 years and just switched to the new Sirocco.

Sirocco is not the most attractive helmet out there, but I don’t really care how I look. It is light as a feather and I easily forget it is on. It also offers some of the best protection out there, so I am definitely a fan.

I need to get a new helmet for next season. The Sirocco is a consideration but the price and color are significant factors. I just want a white helmet! I am wondering how well EPP will hold up to wear compared to whatever the shell of the Meteor is made of.Even for a lightweight like me, the Meteor does nothing to make me "feel heavy". What I had for dinner and breakfast before a day of climbing probably affect me more than the weight of a helmet.

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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

I am wondering how well EPP will hold up to wear compared to whatever the shell of the Meteor is made of...

I’ll be happy to update but mine is holding up really well. I think the nature of the material is such that even when it starts to show some wear it will offer plenty of protection. And I did get a UV answer despite not updating my blog yet. The UV-degradation tests where same as Elios/Meteor so not an issue... no answer to my Deet question, except that question doesn’t come up enough in Europe for them to really test for it... so, probably no issue... I still take my helmet off if I need to “deet up”... only a couple times a year I bust out the deet so I’m not concerned...

Looked at all my local guide books and only the new Vermont and Secret of the Notch have cover shots of climbers with helmets. All others including the new North Conway and Rumney guide books are of climbers without helmets.