One of the coldest vintages in recent memory paved the way for this ageworthy showpiece from Bob Bertheau, who arrived at a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Merlot (25%), Cabernet Franc (2%) and Malbec. Most of the fruit came from acclaimed Cold Creek Vineyard, and the 20 months in 66% new oak — a blend of French and American — sets the tone. There’s a big whiff of chocolate and dark toast that leads to generous notes of blackberry, black cherry, plum, sage and white pepper. Resolved tannins and pleasing acidity make this an elegant and opulent drink. This year, the labels feature the artwork of Canadian oil painter Bratsa Bonifacho. There are three versions, with this being the Global Dictionary label. It may remind some of Calculus IQ from the Serbian native’s Habitat Pixel series.