Description

If the route were longer and the most difficult pitches not right off the deck, it would be a classic. Each of the five pitches in the route offers brilliant, vertical face climbing on perfect limestone.

Pitches go at 6c+, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6a+.

It is not a bad idea to warm up on something else before jumping on this route.

Location

The route is in the monstrous east face. The east face can be accessed via the normal approach for the other Cheselen routes (on the southeast face), then continuing around the corner and traverse approximately 500 meters across the steep grassy slope below the east face.

Alternatively, one can approach directly from below. For this approach, park on the side of the road going up from Stoeckalp to Melchsee-Frutt, early on where it is close to directly underneath the east wall. Cross the large hiking trail that leads up to Melchsee, and slug it up the steep grassy slope without a trail.

The route begins on a small pillar, and is marked with a painting of a genie coming out of a bottle.

Descent is by abseil down the route. As the third pitch is mildly overhanging, you may have to swing a bit to get to the belay at the end of pitch two (consider clipping the ropes into a bolt or two along the way as the first person abseils).