I've been using Beiter Nocking Points (aka BNP)for some time and really
like them. As with many things requiring installation that are
mission-critical in archery, there is a few "Tricks" to getting good results
like this:

First, study the Beiter Nocking Instructions - they are a good start. I
use the Beiter Serving Tool (BST, aka "winder"), and the 9/32" BNPs with 8125 string material
(8 loops = 16 strands), and for the serving I use currently is Halo in
Lindsey's favorite color (red). Hint: when you measure anything on your bow be
sure that no external forces are altering the bow - ie, leaning
against a limb or a wall. And forgive me for lapsing into the first person
here and there.

After I make a bowstring by serving the end loops, I measure the brace height, and
set it with enough twists to get a 9" fistmele (doncha love pretentious
terms?<G>) Fistmele sounds so much like the American slang, as in, "Hey,
smartaleck, how would you like a knuckle sandwich?".

Having strung the bow, I draw it back and let down a number of times, shoot
an arrow to insure the limbs are seated properly, then measure the height.
I leave the bow strung overnight, and measure the height again in the morning.
At that point I reckon it's done with the largest part of stretching and it's
time to do the center serving. (I've tried hanging the bowstring from a rafter
with 60 pounds of weight at the end, but didn't find it made a difference in
stretching)

I temporarily serve the string with a braided serving material, VERY TIGHTLY.
This compresses the strands of the string into one solid body which will be
useful later, when you actually use the BNP. But for now, you want
to use a Saunders metal nocking point on the serving and find the optimal
nocking point for the brace height you want to use. The Saunders point is
much easier to adjust up and down, of course, but it is heavy, and makes a big
lump that the fingertab will drag against.

I USED to use an indelible marker (the kind meant to mark clothing) to put
lines on the bowstring where the nock will go, but I now think it is better to use a measuring device
that remains independent of the bow. The problem with marks is that it
only works if your bowstring doesn't change as you serve, and I've found that
even with due diligence, the string is going to turn as you serve, moving the
marked position out of position.

Now I use a bowsquare to accurate measure the position of the
nocking point relative to the plunger. I apply a post-it note to the
square and draw on it an arrow to record precisely where the BOTTOM of the
nocking point is (the point where the arrow actually goes), and at what brace
height this is true.

Now, it's important that you recognize that if your fistmele changes, this
point changes. If your tiller changes, this point changes. If
the number of twists in your bowstring changes, this point changes.
If you dial your poundage up or down, this point can change. And you don't
want changes. At the end of this, I'll point out how to use this
relationship of changes to your advantage.

So you have put the Saunders point on, and you start shooting at from 18
meters to 30 meters. If you can shoot good groups at 30, use 30, but
otherwise use 18. You want a good group with fletched arrows, and you want
to insure your arrows are not flying oddly (as if they were hitting your riser).
At 18 meters I think that the bare shaft should ideally be from dead-center in
the group to one or two rings to the left of the group at 9 o'clock for a right-hand
archer (In other words, exactly the same height on the target). This indicates that the spine of the shaft is ever so slightly
stiff, which statistically is a good thing.

IF the bare shaft hits above the group then you need to move the nocking
point UP. If it is hitting below your group, you need to LOWER the
nocking point. By the end of a few dozen arrows, this the bowstring
has been "shot in" and should be done with all significant stretching, ready for
the BNP.

Having found the proper nocking point and put measure to the bow square I then remove the Saunders point and
carefully! unserve the center serving. I gently shave the serving with a
sharp razor blade till it breaks and unravels, leaving the compressed bowstring
unharmed.

Below the BNP: I start the permanent serving process below the nocking position, about the width of four
fingers, and serve upwards towards where the BNP will be. I set the winder
to a VERY TIGHT tension so that the serving is not likely to separate when I put
another layer of serving on top later. To prevent the serving from moving up or down,
I first unstring the bow so that I can carefully POKE the
end of the serving THROUGH the bowstring strands without damaging them.
Tease the strands apart just enough with something pointy but dull, like a bic
pen. I try to get the middle of
the string, 8 strands one side and 8 the other, and I tie a single overhand knot
to keep the serving from falling out while I remount the bowstring on the bow.
Anchoring the beginning end of the serving like this is one way to keep a
serving from slipping up or down, later on.

To "serve in" the BNP you start away from the nock and work
towards it, then through the notch in the shelf edge,
up onto the shelf of the BNP, and then go away from it, which results in a double layer of the
serving material on the string. This is good - it makes the area where your
fingers hold the string to be much larger, and closer to the thickness of the BNP which reduces the "bump" caused under the fingers by the actual nocking
point. The "bump" is much more pronounced with the Saunders Nocking Point,
which I feel is bound to influence the release as well as wear out the
smoothness of the finger tab. Two layers of serving material on the string
area where the fingers make contact will make the
serving to be almost equal to the plastic BNP height so the "bump" is much less
pronounced.(see the photo at the top)

So back to actually serving: the point at which I put the Halo through the
bowstring for the lower side of the BNP is at least THREE to FOUR FINGERS down from the lower end
of the BNP. When I do the TOP side of the BNP I will put the Halo through
about TWO FINGERS worth above the BNP for the same reason.

I poke the serving material through the bowstring then restring the bow.
I lay the loose end under and over the tight overhand knot and wrap OVER it as I
go up the bowstring. I insure that the loose end crosses over the twists
of the bowstring to cause holding friction as it gets wrapped. I
wrap 3 turns, and then pull it tight (cinch it up), push the turns DOWN the
string, wrap 3 turns, repeat. After about 15 turns I snip the
remaining part of the LOOSE end of the serving with scissors or razor blade. And
continue, keeping the tension tight with the winder.

How tight? Well, how tight can you get it? Beiter warns in
their docs not to make it too tight, that when its too tight the BNP will break. This
is especially true for higher poundage bows, less of a concern for say, 30-35
pound bows. But we aren't yet to the BNP, so the more tension on this
segment of bowstring only, the better. For the lower layer of the
serving I serve as tight as I can. The precaution is to make sure you
do NOT let the tension cause the bowstring itself to rotate, change in twists under the serving
as you wrap it. Halo has a 90 pound test so you are not likely to
break the thread. Beiter has recently come out with a winder with stainless
steel parts instead of plastic, to support more tension and heavier use. I
have yet to have either BCY#2 or Halo ever break because I was tugging too hard.
As a result my serving will end up with around 45 revolutions per running inch
of bowstring on the base layer. (!) The serving becomes much smoother as
well. When using the winder I exert opposing force on the bowstring with my other hand, keeping it
from responding and rotating.

In the region of the shelf or shoulder on the BNP where the serving gets laid down twice,
I get 6 to 7 wraps going up and I use MUCH LESS tension on the shelf and on the trip back
down over the first layer of serving - in fact I don't use the winder to perform
the wraps in the shoulder, I do it free hand by pulling slack from the winder
and using finger tension. (Kinda like when you FLOSS<G>). I am extremely careful to keep the BNP
from twisting at all though, and this may be one reason they rarely break later
on. When the serving reaches the inner
lip of the shelf (closest to where the arrow's nock goes) the serving will
reverse direction and start going back down the way it came, OVER the earlier course
of serving wraps.

If, on the shelf, you are able to squeeze a turn of the top
serving layer down INTO the lower layer then you didn't pull the lower layer tight
enough, and you are leaving a little irregularity in the surface which I feel is
undesirable. You can undo the wraps and try again till you are happy.
Smooth is the goal, man, smooooooth. You can easily see in the
picture at the top the angular notches where the thread passes into and out of
the shelf through the rims to keep the bumps down.

After wrapping the shelf and about 1/2 inch down the string I then CAREFULLY check first the brace height to see
if I've accidentally changed it, and then verify the nocking point height to
insure that it unchanged. Be sure you compare the
part of the BNP where the arrow goes, to the same position where the Saunders
metal point was. As you go back down the string atop the first
layer of the serving If you tug too hard on the top layer of the serving, the strand will push
down between the first layer's wraps by spreading them apart. This in turn
pushes the nocking point up, resulting in a bad change in the nocking height.
So you want snug but not quite so tense as the first layer for most of the first
layer's distance.

Serve downwards until about 1/2 inch
above the beginning point, where you can then greatly increase the tension of the winder.
If the strand pushes down between the first layer's strands in this area, that
is ok because it doesn't affect the BNP. Continue down the
bowstring as far as needed to insure that the point of contact between the
archer's chest protector and the string will be served, be protected from
excessive wear. This increases the life of the string. Ever notice
how frazzled your string becomes there? Well, that's friction at work, and
it could be messing with your accuracy.

Last chance to undo before you cut the serving thread: Check the
nocking point's height once more. If it is off now, you can still undo the
serving and redo it without wasting material. Once sure, you can finish this
serving using the "inside turns" method, about 7 to 10 of them.

When it comes to finishing the serving i prefer the method where you undo wraps as
you do wraps. I put SEVEN to TEN such wraps into the trick, and I
have never had a bowstring serving come undone.
Murray's
Balbardie Archery Reference, on around page 15, has a good description for
this.

Above the BNP: Repeat serving the top half of the nock, once again unstring the bow just
long enough to poke the serving thread through the bowstring, then string the
bow. For the top half, I start about two finger's width above the top edge
of the BNP and serve it down and back up again, taking the serving high enough
to leave an inch or two above the location of the kisser button (to be mounted
last).

As you lay down the twists leading up to the top edge of the BNP, be sure
that you don't put so many that the BNP end up bent or puckered. And
again, once you have served the top shoulder of the BNP stop and verify the
nocking height is right, and do so again right before you finish the top end of
the serving - once you cut it you can't as easily adjust things without wasting
all the serving you've done. And remember to prevent the bowstring from
twisting in reaction to the winder's torque.

Try shooting groups and bare shafts, and decide whether you need to go to
fine tuning of the Nocking Point height. If your bare shaft is low,
then your nocking point is too high, etc.. If you don't want to re-serve
it all, you have another solution.

I have never found any hard evidence that slight changes to the TILLER
will cause adverse effects in and of itself. In fact, I've not seen
anything that says that tiller has very much effect on anything of real
importanct, by itself. But! changes in the tiller can have an
effect on the nocking point! By small adjustments on the tiller you can
have sufficient effects on the nocking point's height!

It's easy to test and see how this works. Hold the bow horizontally,
resting on the stabilizer. Put the bow square on the string, with the
ruled edge 1/4 inch away from the top of the plunger rim as though you were
measuring BNP height or brace height.

Now, hold the riser firmly with one hand and either push down or pull up the
tip of one limb causing a change in the tiller and watch the ruled edge of the
bow square. See how it moves? See how that temporarily changes
the nocking point height? It also changes the brace height, but only a
very tiny amount that is of little consequence. By changing the
tiller only a little bit, say, 1/16" to 1/8" of an inch, you can move the
effective nocking point height enough in many cases to tune the BNP to just the
right place so your bare shaft is amongst the fletched group! Before
anyone jumps up with the opinion that the tiller controls whether the bow pulls
up or down during the draw process, I'll admit to the possibility while stating
that it's not been of consequence so far.