Restaurant review: Reethika

The food is so distinct, racy and fresh-tasting at Reethika that it might have you rethinking
what to expect out of a local Indian restaurant. In other words, for our rejuvenating fix of those
head-popping flavors, we Columbus diners are often willing to wade through a general sameness of
curries along with an over-reliance on dairy. Well, things are different at the terrific little
Reethika.

Positioned next to Kihachi in Dublin, Reethika is a modern-looking and brightly lit place.
There's no alcohol or much in the way of decor - just a couple TVs, a few geometrically decorative
metal pieces and a colorful picture of a yogi sitting in front of a goat - so you know you're only
here for the food. But man, that food!

Reethika's flavors are huge, but refreshingly its menu - and prices - are not. From the
starters, I was a big fan of the Indo-Chinese dishes Gobi Manchuria ($4) and Chicken 65 ($8). The
former were dynamite-red, lightly, spicily and crackly battered and fried al dente cauliflower
heads sprinkled with eggy chaat masala. The equally red Chicken 65 was hyper aromatic and super
juicy fried poultry chunks powered by fried curry leaves, garlic and toasted cumin seeds. Unlike
other Chicken 65s around town, this knockout version was unsauced - and didn't need any.

Two other memory-imprinting appetizers likewise demonstrated how Reethika separates itself from
the rest of the local Indian restaurant pack. The Sheek Kebabs ($8) - light and made with
ground turkey redolent of mint, cilantro and jalapeno - were crisply
fried yet resoundingly ungreasy.

• Hyderabadi Chicken ($10) - the same boneless chicken as above in a rich,
complex, highly aromatic and seriously spicy yellow/brown curry sauce with a nice cardamom pop and
a cuminy and clovey undercurrent.

• Goat Curry ($12) - dark, clovey and cinnamony curry with a powerful chili jolt.
The goat (I was told Reethika uses only halal and kosher meats) tasted great but I had to navigate
through a tricky minefield of bone and fat.

While enjoying a lovely, light, fruity and nutty kheer (actually a sheer korma, as it was made
with vermicelli instead of rice), my super nice waitress brought over some gratis chai tea
(cardamomy, barely sweet, with cocoa-type notes). I asked her about the restaurant's pretty name -
she told me her parents titled it after her and that "Reethika" means "one who upholds
traditions."

Though I usually get a kick going against the accepted grain, if this is what tradition tastes
like at Reethika, long may it be upheld.