Island's tourism birth a date with history

Soon after the First Fleet landed at Sydney Cove three new colonists went ashore on a small harbour island and scratched their initials into the rocks.

One carved FM 1788. Another wrote IR 1788, while the third scrawled WB 1788.

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Believed to be Australia's oldest colonial graffiti, the rock carvings will be among long-hidden treasures that will be revealed to the public on Sunday when the Royal Australian Navy throws Garden Island open to visitors.

From Monday the public will have permanent access to the hilly and wooded northern half of the island, separated by a high metal fence from the navy base. For a month Sydney Ferries will operate an hourly weekday trial service between Circular Quay and a restored wharf.

It is uncertain who the initials belong to, but they were probably men dispatched from HMS Sirius to tend to gardens established on the island to feed the colony.

FM might have been Frederick Meridith, a free man who served as steward to Captain John Marshall, of the Sirius.

Another Garden Island relic is the tiny penknife that 21-year-old able seaman William Lamshed used 60 years ago to save the lives of 29 crew from HMAS Armidale, which was torpedoed off Timor on December 1, 1942.

While clinging to a makeshift raft the survivors came across the Armidale's partially submerged but damaged whaler. They patched holes with their shirts and trousers and Lamshed used his knife to whittle the wooden seats into a rudder so they could steer a course for Darwin. Just 150 kilometres from the city, they were finally rescued by HMAS Kalgoorlie.

Garden Island was established as the colony's food source on January 27, 1788 - the day after the First Fleet arrived.

But in the 1820s sandstone fortifications, bits of which survive, were built on the island to protect Sydney from a feared Russian attack. In 1855, the Royal Navy began berthing ships at the island.

During the 1940s, the strait separating the base from the mainland was filled in, but the island name stuck.

Garden Island also boasts what is claimed to be Australia's first lawn tennis court. Built in 1880, it is still in use, although the lawn was replaced in 1960.

But possibly its best kept secret is its spectacular 360 degree view of Sydney. From the top of the old signal station, once used to flag messages to ships, visitors will be able to gaze at the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, Fort Denison, and the city skyline.

On Sunday people can see where, in 1942, a Japanese mini-submarine sank HMAS Kuttabul, killing 19 sailors. Several ships, including the 128-year-old James Craig, and one of the navy's newest ships, the mine hunter HMAS Norman, will be open for inspection.

Garden Island will be open on Sunday from 10am to 4pm. Entry is via the main gate in Cowper Wharf Road or by ferry from Circular Quay.