The Café and Delicatessen Linha 22

Have you ever caught the electric tram 22 in Porto? The one that runs from Carmo past Clerigos up to the Praça de Batalha and then returns to Carmo via Rua Passos Manuel? It’s a lovely trip through the heart of the city, and the electricos of Porto are iconic.

A new cafe and delicatessen has opened on Rua dos Clerigos which has taken the name Linha 22 for itself. Like the electrico, it is very compact but very pleasant and relaxing, and it is a good way to learn more about Porto and Portugal.

The proprietor, Carlos Gartner, opened the doors last November with the idea that the Portuguese don’t really appreciate the best of Portuguese food and wine – they tend to think “the best” is always from outside the country. Not at all! Sr. Gartner is going to show the Portuguese the best of Portugal.

The proprietor of the Café Linha 22, Carlos Gartner

His enthusiasm is contagious. “Are you familiar with this cheese? It’s from the best producer of this kind of cheese in Serra da Estrela, look… Do you like pão de lô (a type of sweet bread with a pudding-like centre)? Ours is made in a little village near Braga, it’s the best… Have you ever tasted Singevera liqueur? It is marvellous, try it, just a little, you have to try it…”

He’s right, it is marvellous, I tried it. You should too.

The café offers light meals, such as soup (their Caldo Verde, a potato soup with shredded kale, is one of the best I have had yet), rojões (a pork dish), favas (beans and sausage), pastries, bread and cheese, and much more. All of the food and beverages, and all the delicatessen products for sale are Portuguese except the coffee – but only because Portugal does not produce coffee.

But there’s more. The next floor up has private rooms for groups up to 16 people, and Sr. Gartner will be offering wine tastings. On the next floors up he will shortly be opening a bed & breakfast. The rooms are small but have everything you need for a comfortable stay and the price includes a traditional Portuguese breakfast, such as bread and cheese, presunto (cured ham) and of course, coffee.

And there is still more. Carlos has partnered with STCP, which runs the electric trams in Porto, and beginning in April, Café Linha 22 will offer special tram rides. Each Saturday afternoon at 4:30, you can catch the tram and relax with a tasting of Portuguese wines served with petiscos (Portuguese tapas), as you travel around Porto. One service will make a circuit of central Porto in a little less than an hour, or another, lasting about an hour and a half, will run out to Foz, alongside the Douro River. Contact the Café to make your reservations.