TC,
Thanks. You would not believe how easily the 954 front assembly was fitted to the 1100 steering neck. Everything fit, bearings, etc. The only "major" work was shortening the stem. The engine is ready to go back in after getting the Wiseco big bore kit, valve job, cam degreeing, and major porting to go with the 39mm flatsides. All that's left is polishing the covers.

Actually, the main reason I wanted to get rid of the F2 front end was that it is almost impossible to upgrade the brakes. The F2 rotors are mounted to the wheel differently than most bikes, and I thought the forks were just too skinny for the massive engine. The engine work was undertaken because I spun a rod bearing thanks to a prior careless reassembly by a local shop, which left red silicone floating around the inside of the engine. I may add back the bikini fairing. May.

Hi sceaf3,
I have a CB900F that is getting the 1050 Wiseco kit, ported and polished, CB1100F carbs, has the CB1100F rear swing arm chromed, all engine covers polished, etc.... now I am just looking to upgrade the rear wheel and complete front end - something similar to what you have done with your CB1100F. I have a good lead on ohlins shocks too, which will help at the rear end.

Any advice on which way to go for the front end - does the CBR929 front end fit relatively easily? Which rear wheel, etc?

Actually, the main reason I wanted to get rid of the F2 front end was that it is almost impossible to upgrade the brakes. The F2 rotors are mounted to the wheel differently than most bikes, and I thought the forks were just too skinny for the massive engine. The engine work was undertaken because I spun a rod bearing thanks to a prior careless reassembly by a local shop, which left red silicone floating around the inside of the engine. I may add back the bikini fairing. May.

timcs,
The 954 front end bolted up by just shortening the stem. I kept the oe swingarm. The 954 rear wheel (hub) is almost too wide for the swingarm. You will have to do some work on the carrier and take off the sprocket nuts and replace with bolts with heads that don't project as far out from the sprocket. Even with that done it is close, but works. I am running a 160/60 rear which is amost 8" wide because it is on a 6" rim not 4.5-5" which is the recommened rim size by Dunlop.
The big bore kit is so stong I had to go down 2 on the rear to keep the front wheel on the ground. The original gear ratio destroyed two clutches in rapid succession. I am going to a 'lock up' clutch like they use in drag racing. The best clutch plates to use are OEM. The aftermarket ones I burned up all have less friction material on the plates (they are segmented, the oe is solid). Ohlins rebuilt my shocks, revalved them and put on new springs for about $180, a good deal. I welcome any questions. I'm not finished with the bling yet, but here are two pics from the first day I rode after a 6 month project. The stock bike dyno'd at 98 hp; now we are at 140+. Stock it was a 11.3 quarter mile bike (according to '83 test reports).The guy who did the work is a former drag racer and he says we are way down into the 10's. I know its faster than my Aprilia RSV Mille, which is reported to be mid ten's.
sceaf3

I am running a 160/60 rear which is amost 8" wide because it is on a 6" rim not 4.5-5" which is the recommened rim size by Dunlop.

If you have a 160/60 that's the same width as the wheel (the sidewalls must swell outwards to the rim) and still a tight fit why don't you run the correct tyre width for the wheel? A 190/50 or /55 is way narrower than eight inches.

__________________
"I won't forget that ride for a while. Maybe you're right. Living fast might be worth the final crash. Maybe that's the secret you fliers know." - Flight of the Intruder

Hi sceaf3,
Your bike sounds (and looks) awesome... I'll be posting pics as my build carries on. The mechanic building the engine thinks we'll be somewhere between 120 and 125hp; I'll have to dyno it after it's build to be sure. Thanks for the hints about the clutches and the gear ratios; it'll be fun to see if I can keep the front wheel on the ground once it's built

sceaf3 - I just noticed that you have a GL1000 in the background of one of the picks. Is that yours? I have a '79 GL1000 in blue that I am riding while the CB900F is being built - I was able to pick it up for $200 from a work buddy - it's a blast to ride.

I agree. I was trying to get by; the 160/60 is a brand new Qualifier. I will be moving to the proper size tire for the rim and, as you say, it should be more narrow than a stretched out 160.
Thanks,
sceaf3

Very tidy, i like it alot how does it ride?... ever think of getting it in sf mag?...

Thanks. During the entire build we were afraid the front ride height (frh) was going to be too short creating a steep rake and not enough trail. I had GMD take all the measurements before the conversion and will follow up to see what current specs are, but she rides great. Maybe a little, and I mean a little, twitchy at 120+,so maybe a damper is in order. Perfect in the corners, doesn't fall in, and doesn't try to stand up. Just takes a line and holds it, so I don't really expect the specs to be too far off, if they are, I will raise the frh by lengthing the fork internals or by having an extended fork cap machined, to allow the forks to be dropped down in the clamps a little. I went overboard on the master cylinder with a Brembo dual pivot 20 mm. Every article I read said 20 was too big and I would lose feel. Wrong. It is a one finger bike, two if you are in a hurry to stop. If you grab a handful, be ready for lockup, stoppie, or over the bars, whatever.
Thanks for the post.
sceaf3

sceaf3 - I just noticed that you have a GL1000 in the background of one of the picks. Is that yours? I have a '79 GL1000 in blue that I am riding while the CB900F is being built - I was able to pick it up for $200 from a work buddy - it's a blast to ride.

No, it belongs to a customer of the shop that is doing the heavy lifting.
sceaf3