Re: 3 phase grounding

After reading that below,,,,,,ifffffffffff the Neutral is bonded to the case/frame via the green grounding screw that accomplishes all I said needs to be done (in theory at least) HOWEVER that's still NOT the wiring method I specified or was used at our facility. I prefer a direct (so long as not copper to aluminum) Neutral to GroundING Electrode Conductor bond and from that bond to the case frame NOT use the case frame as a conductor...

I took my meter out to confirm, but there is definitely continuity between the ground and neutral, so I'm sure the green screw is accomplishing that. What you're saying, is it might be wise, and perfectly legal to add a jumper wire, therefore not relying on the case to perform that task? That's easy enough to do to add some insurance. In that case, do I still need additional ground rods connected to this disconnect?

It is a high leg system, with the red tape indicating it on the center leg. I am aware, and fully understand what that means. It will only be ran to the shop though, the house only gets the 120 volt legs fed to it. The power company then used an oversize transformer to feed the lighting load, to make up for the imbalanced system.

Okay, from what you say with the green grounding screw making contact with the disconnects metallic case/frame ALL IS LEGAL based on my very rusty and outdated NEC knowledge so NO WARRANTY. However, again with proper Copper and Aluminum compatible junctions, I still prefer (even if NOT NEC required) the bare No 4 Copper Equipment GroundING Conductor bonded to the Neutral Grounded Conductor (at a single point) WITHOUT IT HAVING TO USE THE METAL CASE AND WIMPY GREEN GROuNDING SCREW AS CONDUCTORS. I just view the small grounding screw MORE as a method to bond the metallic case to the newly established Equipment GroundING Buss/Connection versus it and the case/frame being relied on for conduction and the electrical connection for bonding Neutral to Mother earth Ground THATS MY STORY N IMA STICKIN TO IT.

HOWEVER I would not use BOTH, if you run the bare copper to the Neutral (instead of the small case lug, with a proper junction method for copper/aluminum) Id then consider the green grounding screw as the method to bond the metal case/frame to the Equipment Ground. BUT THATS JUST ME DONT GET UPSET. The main thing you are doing (when you earth ground the Neutral) is to tie Neutral to mother earth for lighting and surge suppression and I like it direct NOT via green screws and metal cases. I don't have a problem with the green screw being used to bond the metal case/frame, that's how I've seen it.

GROUND RODS as I said before if your utility and local authority consider the single driven rod as sufficient I wouldn't worry with more (although sure drive all you want). In my day we drove one rod them tested it and if it failed we drove another rod and re tested, but if it still failed we didn't drive more rods. As I recall the NEC says tie to all readily available grounding electrodes which includes buried metal pipes and structural steel and "made electrodes" sucH as driven rod or rods. If there were no other electrodes then we used "made electrodes" such as driven rods.

I WISH AND HOPE SOME OTHER MORE CURRENT PROFESSIONAL electricians and engineers would comment on my method and tell how they preferred it, is this just me lol Anything wrong with my preferences??

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