Ponzi Vineyards 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $60

The coolest summer in nearly two decades challenged winemakers, but the cellar should be quite kind to many from this vintage, including reserve from one of Oregon top producers. Sustainably farmed estate vineyards Aurora, Abetina and Avellana played major roles, as did a 20-month program of 50% new French oak. Laurelwood soils in the Chehalem Mountains help create aromas of black cherry, plum and cola, backed by nuances of cigar box, allspice, dusty herbs, minerality and a whiff of smoke. Plump cherries and plums show a touch of jamminess on the palate, backed by raspberry, red currant, more spice and black pepper.