West side restaurant offers Central and South American food.

October 02, 2006|JIM MEENAN Tribune Staff Writer

SOUTH BEND -- Luis Castillo's calm demeanor belies a man whose life would seem adventuresome to the average American. Castillo grew up in Honduras in Central America, and went to college in Costa Rica. He later came to the United States, graduated with a business degree from Mount Vernon Nazarene University in Ohio, and went to work in the manufacturing sector in quality control. Now, after being laid off, he's opted to try one of America's greatest challenges: opening a restaurant. "I always wanted to do this," Castillo, 45, said. And he's combining what he learned working in a cafeteria in Costa Rica while in school there along with a business approach he learned through college in Ohio and through experience in America. The business is Fronteras Restaurant, 1007 N. Bendix Drive, South Bend. It's a stone's throw from the LaSalle Branch Library, and not even one full block off Lincoln Way West. The restaurant offers a wide choice of food suitable for nearly any palate. Mexican, Carribean and South American foods are all featured. The concept of the restaurant with various Central American foods goes back to something Castillo learned nearly 20 years ago while working in his college's cafeteria in Costa Rica. "We have a few things in common in language and history," Castillo said of Central American-area countries. "But the foods, there are small differences you learn to appreciate. "For instance, the Mexicans, you notice their food tends to be a little more spicy." Not so with Honduras and many other Central American countries, Castillo said. "We learn to spice our food but with a different type of herbs that are not hot, that accentuate the flavor of the food." At Fronteras, which Castillo says means "borders" in Spanish, you will have the chance to sample them all. "If you want to experience a little bit of food around Latin America, you have come to the right place," he said. From hot sellers like Caribbean chicken, to a tasty Mexican menu supplied by former Mi Cocinita owner Maria Romo, to soothing soups, Castillo and co-owner Alexis Ortega, have come up with a unique blend. And the tastes are fully satisfying without the heat, shall we say, of hot tamale. "The food is good," said customer Lori Caskey Sigety. "The place is clean, and the service is friendly." She usually opts for the vegetarian tacos, one of several vegetarian items offered. "They are tasty soft tacos," she said. Castillo recommends the Caribbean chicken, served with rice and beans and your choice of side salad or fries. Other dishes he thinks are worth a taste for the first-timer is Churrasco Argentino, a marinated steak served with chimichurri sauce, or a fish fillet sprinkled with Caribbean spices, which seems to be catching on big on Fridays. And he smiles broadly when talking about a fish soup, which combines a coconut milk base with spices and fish. "People will come just for that," he added. "They call it the Viagra of the Caribbean. "It takes large quantities for the desired result," he said with a smile. "A little bowl will just give you a burst of energy." Small bowls of various soups are served complimentary with a meal, as are chips and an appetizing, mild salsa. Besides its five vegetarian offerings, which include a burrito, burger and fajitas, the restaurant is health conscious, Castillo says. "We try to make it a little healthier for everybody's experience," he said, through grilling and the resulting reduction in saturated fats. "We are basically trying to help those who are health-conscious but like flavor on their food, but don't like all the saturated fats." Breakfast is also served in the Central American flavor. The restaurant is open every day but Saturday, when it is closed for religious reasons. However, with additional help, that could change, Castillo said. In the meantime, he invites you to come to Fronteras, and try what you like from the various borders. "All the Latino borders in one place," he indicated, come to life, in his words, in this "melting pot." Whether you're Hispanic or American, he's confident he has something for you. Staff writer Jim Meenan: jmeenan@sbtinfo.com (574) 235-6342