time I posted some more pictures, the first model is off the building blocks and number 2 is started, meanwhile the first layer of planks is on the transom, and the rest of the model is being cleaned up, the noggins for the deck are being inserted and some work has been done for the rudder.

Ken, sad to say I cut my own from raw timber - 15mm skirting sections from B&Q - picking out the least knotted boards.I saw a sacrificial board to the plank width, this then stops the pieces dropping down the side of the saw blade, then rip up a plentiful amount ready to use at about 2.5mm thickness. I am careful to use a pusher anywhere near the blade, you do waste a little with the 1/4 round edge, but this gives you something to push on as you near the edge, then you get left with a piece of quadrant bead.

one thing I will be trying on the second model is linden blind slats, you can get 2 x 10mm planks out of each by taking a strip off each side - avoiding the slots, I am already using this on the second model for the ribs.

more work has been done, the ribs are progressing on model #2, on model #1 the deck supports are going in, the the bow these are of course curved slightly. work has been done on the floor in the rear cockpit, keeping the rudder as tall as possible, it has been cut down. supports for the floor have been added and a floor plate fabricated.I have also rough shaped the oak block for the bow, this will be temporarily fitted and sanded to shape.

the thing that brings a model to life has been added - the bow, this is fixed exactly as the real one, its a separate lump of oak, just bolted on the front. shaping has been done and some sanding to get an idea of the finish, this is one part of the boat that will be finished in natural, showing the timber.

my z poxy arrived and I mixed up just a tiny amount and put it on the bow block, man that looks nice now.in other news I have been working on the well deck floor, the steps at the side were going to cause problems lifting the floor, but I got around that the steps are fixed to the floor and come out with it.

so the epoxing has been done, bits have been tidied up, and the transom has had its pretty skin planking done and epoxied, though I did need to get some deep reach clamps to skin the transom. the well deck flooring has had its floor pattern epoxied to protect it, the access hatch edges were put in place with some metallic tape.the rudder and prop shaft have been epoxied in place too.

today it was down to work, I will be visiting the real boat and owner later this week, as the boat is out of the water for its bi-annual maintenance, and I want her watertight for this, so with this in mind the skeg was bolted on, the prop shaft support has gone in, half has been fitted to the skeg, bolted then soft soldered- the other half goes through the keel.Where the skeg is bolted through the keel, there are 3mm i/d tubes passing through the keel to protect the wood.

I have just returned from 3 days working on the real thing, while there I was handed a miniature set of the name graphics, the owner had them done at the same time as the ones for the boat as he was replacing those on this maintenance. some rot was removed and timber replaced at the stern, the whole of the bottom and hull was sanded and is being repainted.It just goes to show that modelling boats isnt always limited to making the model, sometimes it involves getting hands on working on the real deal.While we were there (the model came with me) we had the first water trial, across the slipway, under her own power, with an emergency tether, no leaks and she performed quite well across the slipway, albeit riding very high in the water, ballast will be needed.

its been a while since I last posted, work has been progressing on both models, planking is being done on model #2 while model #1 now has decks and the cabin sides have been attached, these are made from 2 linden blind slats joined edge to edge.Model #2 has had the ribs and now the planking done using these linden blind slats, ripped down to 1/4" for the ribs and 1/2" for the planks, all boot fair or charity shop purchases for minimal costs.3d printing has come to the fore, fenders and an anchor winch have been made, along with a tiny thumbnail sized bilge pump, capable of pumping 1 1/2 litres a minute.

as you will see from the pictures, the top rubbing strip was laminated up and then shaped and fixed in place after the deck was fitted, first the deck was used as a former to steam and bend up the rubbing strip.

As I was headed up to the broads this last weekend, to meet up with one of the owners of the real boat, I took the model up with me, I had at the last minute jury rigged the radio gear and batteries.due to the battery interconnecting wire being too short I had to have both batteries in the same location, ideally to trim the boat, they need to be one in front, one behind the centre cockpit.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WciyebMT4HI

no grp there. the woodwork was filled and smoothed, then z poxy'ed to seal it, then as with the original the hull is painted white, I will add the red oxide bottom and blue boot topping when I have determined the finished waterline.

progress is being made, the model will be taking part in the Beccles classic wooden cruiser show in a months time, so detail is being added to bring the model into line with the real thing. the bottom colour is gone on, and details are being added to the cabin roofs, handrails have gone on, the windscreen is on, and fittings are being úD printed and put on, the latest is the solar panel. this was printed, chromed with a molotow chrome pen, and a real solar panel from a cheap solar power bank added, a life belt has been printed and mounted, I doubt I will have time to add paint, but the details will be there, there is at least another 6 months detailing work to be done, but this is going to give an idea of the finished boat.