My last blog post was back in March so it's been a while but I'd like to get back into it. I'm starting with my 14th match of the season and a first visit to Stara Boleslav.

Stara Boleslav are another club who like the 10:15am kick off (you're not as unique as you think FKVŽ) so it was a fairly early start. The plan was to get to Stara Boleslav for around 9:30, watch the match, have some lunch and then head to Poděbrady for a 16:30 game. We were doing quite well until the 16:30 game part.

The station here isn't exactly central..

I drive through Stará Boleslav every Wednesday and I always assumed that the station would be somewhere in or near the centre. It isn't. Walking out of the station I couldn't get my bearings at all. No big red church in sight, no castle, hmm. We appeared to be in a forest next to the motorway D8. Google politely informed us that the centre was a somewhat ugly 29 minute walk away which at least meant walking past the pub so we could check the lunch menu for later.

Arriving at the ground we walked past the unmanned ticket booth and headed straight for the bar. The 'Na Slavoji' kiosk serves a good selection of snacks and drinks alongside the usual klobasa and fresh, crisp, draught Staropramen. Ah well, you can't win them all.

The 25kč Staropramen on tap at Na Slavoji isn't as bad as it sounds if you can get through the crowd..

We took our seat on the benches outide the main building and, thankful that it wasn't raining (no cover in sight), we settled down for the 1.B Třída clash between Stará Boleslav and Chotětov.

The match was, in a word, outstanding. It was my 14th game of the season and probably the best so far. Both teams were up for the game, it was end to end and both teams hit the bar and post before a late challenge enabled the home side to score from the spot and go in at half time 2-1 up.

Top quality stuff in the 7th tier of Czech football.

The fast pace continued after the break with the home side quickly extending their lead to make it 3-1. This was slightly baffling as Steve and I both commented that Chotětov looked the more dangerous side throughout. The away side pulled a goal back and from then on the draw seemed inevitable. Chotětov equalised in the last minute. Scenes! The match went to an equally entertaining penalty shootout which Stara Boleslav went on to win 5-4. Uff.

It was time for a bit of culture before lunch so we set off sightseeing. This particular venture involved turning right instead of left for about 200m and taking a picture of a church. Job done.

Kostel Nanebevzetí Panny Marie

The town square in Stará Boleslav

We decided to have lunch in Hostinec Modrá Hvězda which is about half way between the station and centre. I've driven past this pub a few times and it caught my attention as there's an old bicycle hanging above the door. It's strange for me to admitt I actually quite enjoyed the beer at the game but changing to tank gambrinus 10 was a welcome if not huge step up in quality. They also sell Pilsner but we were on our 4th pint and still had another match to get to. At least that was the plan. The pub looks better from the outside and there are probably better options in Stará Boleslav...certainly in neighbouring Brandys nad Labem....but if you're after a basic Czech meal with good cheap beer and o2 sport then this is the place.

We went back to the station and took the 30 minute train to our next stop, the historical spa town of Poděbrady. I'd never been there before and while I knew about it's popularity (and beauty) I wasn't quite ready for the huge amount of tourists waiting for us on arrival.

Poděbrady

We made our way through the park and the various mineral water springs (which Steve insisted on tasting - brave) and as we had 2 hours until kick off we headed towards the local mini brewery - restaurace v pivovaře. I'd heard terrible things about the service in this place so I went in with low expectations but it was fine. Beer is pricey at 38kč-49kč but they have a decent selection - 11 light, 12 light, 12 dark, 13 Czech ale, 14 IPA. I was completely bloated after my duck and dumpling lunch so I went for the 11 and I have to say it was far too sweet for my taste. If I ever go back I'll try the IPA but this was still quite early and I knew there was a lot more drinking to be done. If you go to Poděbrady it is worth stopping for a beer. The interior of the restaurant is excellent with its mix of wood and stone. You can find it right by the river Labe.

Zdroj 11 at restaurace v pivovaře

I thought I had planned this trip perfectly before realising the sports club 50 meters from the brewery was the yacht club rather than the football club. Oops. I knew we were close to Slovan Poděbrady which was just over the river but we were going to see Bohemia Poděbrady. Once again google prepared us a 30 minute walk and we set off knowing we'd get there just before kick off and head straight for the beer.

We arrived three minutes before kick off to what can only be described as an abandoned building site of a ground. It was nice of them to mention this on their website! I frantically searched for info online without success before finding a facebook post warning that their previous home game was being played on their all weather pitch across town.

FK Bohemia Poděbrady

Google once again sent us on a 23 minute walk (steps were up to 12,000 by this point and my back was in bits) but when we arrived there was no football to be found. In conclusion....they were either playing at Slovan or a nearby village. Either way we gave up, found a pub and spent the next 3 hours listening to a violin, box, accordion trio and drinking some lovely Pilsner Urquell.

Náš Hostinec - Poděbrady

Despite the madness at the end and the bad back it was a good day. We saw a great game of football in the morning and walked miles through Poděbrady in the afternoon.

Next up for me is my first trip to Goodison Park since John Stead scored there in Paul Ince's first game as Rovers manager. See you on the 29th September Everton!

As you can see from the picture above they have put a couple of stickers on the window but this arena is not and never will be the real home of the Sparta Prague ice hockey team.

This nightmare started in the 2014/2015 season which saw HC Slavia Praha (then tenants of the o2 arena) relegated to the WSM Liga. Slavia ended their contract with the o2 and moved back to their home at Eden ice hockey arena in Vršovice. *Probably a good thing as they seem to have lost 15,000 of the 17,000 fans that watched their play off final game in 07/08*.

Sparta saw the opportunity (they are run as a business these days) and despite a huge backlash from the fans they went through with the move, leaving their famous Holešovice home to start the 2015/2016 season in the 17,000 capacity arena. The arena is what it is. It's quite a grand site when you first step inside and it's still the second biggest ice hockey arena in Europe but it just doesn't have the atmosphere that you can find at the country's other stadiums. It's an american style stadium. You have to put up with the popcorn and pizza smell throughout the match and despite average efforts of management the club have completely lost their identity.

The kotel (main fans) try their hardest but they routinely fail to generate much of an atmosphere and there are some matches, against Brno and Hradec for example, where they are completely drowned out by the away fans. It's a sad site as the holešovice kotel was quite intimidating for away fans and this passion was transferred onto the ice. Despite all the negativity it was time for one last push to try and help the team get over the line and take this play off series to another game. In all honesty Sparta didn't really deserve to be there in the first place after what had been a disastrous season so it was pretty much expected that it wouldn't end well.

The arena is easily accessible by underground from the centre of Prague (5 stops) and the great news is that as soon as you exit the underground station there's a brilliant little pub right in front of your eyes...Na Staré Ráně. The pub is decorated as a hockey rink and is full of old pictures and memorabilia. They have tank kozel 11 as well as pilsner urquell, gambrinus and 3 sestry beers all at very reasonable prices (around 30kc). I ran up the escalator, my mouth drooling ready for some tank kozel goodness. It was closed.

The fact the owner planned his refurb during the play offs is testament to just how bad the season was as he obviously didn't expect Sparta to have too many more games. So plan B had to come into force for pre-match beer. One thing we didn't want was to go into the stadium. Another huge problem with Sparta is it's the only stadium in the country (to my knowledge) that don't let you in and out during the breaks meaning you are stuck drinking their overpriced piss beer (Staropramen).

The backup pub...Kovářská

There are a few choices around but we opted for Restaurace Kovářská which is just by the shopping centre entrance to the arena. It seemed busy and had unpasteurised gambrinus for a reasonable 25kc (€1). There was a good pre-match atmosphere in the pub but I'm honestly not sure if I can recommend it or not. I spent the rest of the weekend incredibly ill and the culprit was either the gambrinus in this pub or the piss beer from the arena. It's hard to imagine the beer from the arena, as bad as it is, causing problems as they are pouring about 6 pints a minute at each kiosk. I do remember saying to Radka that one of the 5 beers I had there smelt a bit strange though so be aware!

Suspect 1: Unpasteurised Gambrinus 10

I was told by a brew master in a local microbrewery that the absolute worst beer you can buy in the Czech Republic is in the o2 arena. He's not wrong but when it's such an important match and it's Friday night you don't really have much choice. I had a few and the bill could have settled my monthly tab in our local. It's a bit strange that all the extraliga clubs have to sell Radegast for sponsorship reasons but Sparta still get away with this garbage. České Budejovice even relegated themselves in protest at not being able to sell Budvar in their stadium so I don't know how Sparta manage to swing it.

Suspect 2: O2 Arena piss beer. 45kc and it's only 0.4l!

Anyway. I was pretty fired up for the game. The series was 2-0 to Liberec who had won their two home games earlier in the week and as it was the pre-round it meant Sparta had to win to take it to a 4th game.

Sparta do toho!

The match didn't quite go to plan and despite a good start Sparta decided they wanted a long holiday this year and ended the season there and then with a 4-1 defeat. The entire season was a mess and that's what happens when you bring in top individuals but fail to actually build a team. I have a q&a with Sparta owner/manager/ex player Petr Bříza on the 5th April and I'm not sure he's gonna be ready for me!

Over 10,000 turned up for the game...

It doesn't look like Sparta are leaving the o2 anytime soon so we have to grin and bear it. There has to be a way to get a good atmosphere there but I think it's just too big and people are scattered around the place. The club try to fill it using several initiatives (sparta for schools, appreciating military/police etc, appreciating workers of Prague). These might fill an extra few hundred seats but it seems to me like it's a kick in the teeth to real fans who are paying full price, going to every game and following the team on the road. The cameras spend 70% of the match filming groups of school kids dressed in non-sparta colours (half of whom are probably Slavia fans) while ignoring the kotel who give so much time, money and effort to the club. There needs to be a balance between the business side and the sport side of the club. We can only hope it improves.

Slavia Prague. Another team I can't stand. They aren't quite on Burnley's level yet in terms of my hatred but they are getting closer each year. Unfortunately I just happened to visit both within the same month.

Ok, in all honesty I just dislike them. As a Sparta Prague fan of 13 years (and a season ticket holder for most of them) it's not really negotiable. Slavia are the enemy. Since becoming a season ticket holder I've only seen two title wins and was forced to sit in the stadium and watch Slavia lift the trophy last season. They've taken a step backwards recently and that would be more enjoyable to watch if it weren't for the fact that we've taken a bigger one!

I'm quite a frequent visitor to Eden for work reasons and I'm not going to sit here and say I hate it just because it's Slavia. The stadium itself doesn't have much of an identity. It's modern and there's very little inside the stadium which says ' THIS IS SLAVIA' but to be fair they are improving and have gone some way to decorating the outside with Slavia legends as you can see from the picture above.

Today's game was a big one. The Vršovice derby againt Bohemians 1905. The two clubs are about 3 tram stops apart (...and a lot further apart in football terms). This was a home debut for Slavia's new manager Jindřich Tripišovsky and after a disappointing defeat the previous week against lowly Jihlava and the good form of Bohemians you could sense the nerves around the stadium.

Bohemians 1905 fans turned up in numbers. Well...I say numbers....they had more than they usually take to away games but you'd expect a better effort considering it's a short walk. I could be wrong and maybe their ticket allocation was limited by Slavia...so I'll let them off for now.

Bohemians 1905 fans ready for kick off

Bohemians are having a good season under Martin Hašek and given Slavia's shaky start I really expected both players and fans to be well up for the game. I was disappointed. The players failed to take advantage of sloppy play from the home side and lost the game 1-0. As bad as Slavia played they still looked a league above Bohemka. The away side just didn't have any quality in the final third. As for the fans....ridiculously quiet. Poor effort.

I should probably add that it was -9 degrees which might explain the lack of noise from the away fans. It really was uncomfortable. Absolutely freezing.

Setting off for my afternoon match. The temperature didn't improve!

The majority of Sparta fans would never admit it but I am happy to hold my hands up and say Slavia (...at least at the present time) have a much better atmosphere than we do. The stand with the main fans is the north end behind the goal (Tribuna Sever). They manage to fill it quite well every game and they really do know how to make a noise. It's a shame that they rarely fill the other end and you often see empty seats but on European nights the stadium must be rocking.

The ultras put a lot of time and effort into the banners (as do Sparta) but I missed getting a picture of the pyro in this game as my hands were too cold to fiddle with my phone! Fair play for the 'Our Vršovice' banner though.....

I would recommend visiting all the Prague clubs when in the city. Each of them has a particular charm but i'd say the best atmosphere can be found here. If they continue to disappoint and crash out of Europe early next season then the fans that jumped on the title bandwagon will leave again (Czech fans are very fickle) and that might change things. If that happens I'll be happy to come back and experience their misery. Until then...see you in the real Prague derby next month!

Waking up on Saturday morning and actually making the hotel breakfast this time was a good start. The task was to get out and walk around the city. We had a lot of making up to do after the Friday write-off (see previous post HERE).

I still felt rough so for the first time in my life I was experiencing a true 2 day hangover. It was nowhere near as bad as Friday so a couple of litres of Starbucks filter coffee went some way to sorting me out. We set off walking from the hotel to what remains of the Berlin wall and then planned to head towards the Brandenburg gate, the holocaust memorial and checkpoint charlie. The usual tourist stuff.

The Berlin Wall

Brandenburg Gate

The memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe

Checkpoint Charlie

After another litre of Starbucks we were crossing the river and google decided to tell us there was a microbrewery nearby. This was the perfect opportunity to test my current hangover status. The place was Brahhaus Georgbraeu and it was excellent. A little pricey but friendly staff and excellent beer. We had a couple and so far so good. I was back in the game.

Test passed. A great little beer.

Georgbraeu, Berlin

The plan for the evening was always to watch the FA Cup game between Manchester United and Huddersfield then go on an organised pub crawl. I'd done quite a few of these crawls across Europe in the past and was intent on choosing a tour which wasn't full of American frat boys. I was also still a bit delicate so didn't want to go crazy. My plan was to slowly enjoy a few beers and ignore all the free shots.

We went for the 'Anti-pub crawl: Alternative Berlin Tour' and it was great! The idea is they take you to smaller underground bars which tourists typically don't know about and in small, intimate groups. Despite a little lack of organisation they kept their promise. The tour cost €12 and includes free entry to all bars/clubs and a free shot between each place. We arrived at the meeting point at 21:00 and would you believe it...Dark Bar. I immediately went back into hangover mode as the smell of stale beer from the carpet hit my nostrils and it took me about an hour to drink my first beer. I would have been a bit quicker but tequila bar man 'accidentally' tipped the first pint all over my trousers (beige) and shirt. Cheers mate. The first stop on the tour (and every stop after that come to think of it) required public transport. A little annoying but I suspected it might happen and we had bought day tickets earlier (€6).

It's quite hard to put the first venue into words. It was basically a room surrounded in graffiti ridden concrete with a ping pong table in the middle. There was a bar selling bottles of amazing beer from a local microbrewery (I opted for the weisenbier) and a dj in the corner. You would never ever know from the outside that this is a bar. It was just a normal doorway. After a quick google search I can tell you it's called Dr Pong. Basically it consists of friendly people drinking, listening to the music and playing 'around the world' on the ping pong table. Amazing.

I'm not usually a fan but this was a great weizen bier

Dr Pong, Berlin

Unfortunately this is where my photos ended as it was on my instagram story only but we then visited a craft beer bar just by the Berlin wall where I had a great pale ale and met a Chinese man who not only was a top manager of Lego but also had plenty of stories (and pictures) of Prague brothels. As you do.

Another tram journey and we ended up in the absinthe bar. This was pretty hardcore as far as absinthe bars go as they were selling 90% stuff and doing the whole spoon, sugar and fire shabang. Naturally I stayed on the beer. We then met up with the other group and entered a club. I have no idea what it was but the music was acceptable, the dance floor was friendly, we had a good night and were in bed for 3am. Success. If you're in Berlin I really do recommend this tour.

My cautious approach to the pub crawl paid off and we were up bright and early on Sunday for breakfast and a taste of German regional league football. I had my heart set on Berliner FC Dynamo but unfortunately their match was called off so we settled for Berliner AK 07. It was quite handy that their stadium (Poststadion) was located about 5 minutes walk from the main train station I had my train to Prague from there later in the day so planned to put my luggage in a locker and head to the football. The locker cost €4 and I had planned my remaining euros perfectly so I wouldn't need to use an atm. Imagine my horror when after putting the money in and taking the key I realised I had left my hat, scarf and gloves in the bag. Idiot. I refused to pay another €4 to open the locker and close it again so stubbornly went to the stadium without protection from the -2 temperatures. This was a mistake. It was bloody freezing.

Berliner AK 07 is a very strange football club. It's actually a multi cultural football club with ties to Turkey. They had a relationship with Turkish club Ankaraspor and even took their name and kit but despite reverting to their original name and colours they still have a Turkish fan base. There were two Turkish players on the pitch for this game and they stood out massively as both sides wasted chances to eventually settle for a 0-0 draw.

Berliner AK 07

It was a lot colder than it looks

Berliner AK 07 'ultras'....mainly Turkish

Poststadion, Berlin

One thing that surprised me given the size of the club and the measly 284 attendance was that you couldn't use real money for food and drink. You had to go to a cash desk and purchase club currency. I assume it's some kind of tax dodge but it was an absolute pain in the backside. You even had to pay 50 cents (in fake currency) for a deposit on a plastic beer cup, Madness.

Berliner AK 07 ticket office

The club with its own currency!

After leaving the stadium we went back to hauptbahnhof for some food and a coffee before going our seperate ways. I got the 17:30 train back to Prague and Martin headed to the airport. All in all an unforgettable weekend which has undoubtedly had a lasting affect on me as it caused me to question my beer drinking limits. Those manic days are gone for me now and I have the magical city of Berlin to thank for finally pushing me over the edge and into the responsible drinker club.

One thing is for sure...Berlin is an amazing city with its own atmosphere unlike anywhere else. I'll be back soon for a sober Hertha visit, Union Berlin and of course, Berliner FC Dynamo.

Back in November my cousin Martin and I planned this little trip to Berlin. The plan was to arrive Thursday evening, spend Friday and Saturday exploring the city and take in a couple of games....Hertha vs Mainz on the Friday night and Berliner FC Dynamo on the Sunday afternoon. It didn't quite go to plan but it was certainly an eye opening weekend.

I took the train from Prague (600kč/€23 return for a very comfortable 4 hour direct train) and Martin flew from London. We arrived at the hotel within an hour of each other (H2 Hotel Berlin-Alexanderplatz €91 per night inc breakfast) and decided to head straight out for a much needed German beer. It was hard not to notice the Hofbrauhaus next to the hotel and that seemed like as good a place as any to start. Much like its Munich older brother the atmosphere was good and the beer tasted great.

Hofbrauhaus Berlin

When in Berlin.....drink Munich beer!

The hofbrauhaus is obviously not the cheapest pub in town so off we went to find some local beers. I'm not sure why but the first place we went to was a Czech chain pub (The Pub). Those familiar with Prague/Brno will have probably tried it's self serving beer pump on tables system. The beer wasn't actually Czech though with a local beer going down well while watching Napoli vs RB Leipzig on the big screen.

After 'The Pub' we sampled two nearby microbreweries. The first was Brauhaus Lemke, a huge craft microbrewery right next to Alexanderplatz. It was a Thursday night so most places seemed to be dying down at this point and this huge brauhaus was no exception. We had an excellent pale ale before moving onto the nearby Berliner Marcus Brau. This was a really small place but it had a lot of character. They had a wide range of homemade products including spirits, honey and mustard as well as their own beer. I asked the waitress for a 5 litre 'tower' to surprise Martin but she politely declined as they were closing at 11 and she obviously couldn't see us finishing it in 30 mins (pfft). In the end we had to settle for a pint and a shot of their homemade beer spirit. It was all very tasty and a nice way to cap off our first night in Germany's capital.

A nicely bitter, hoppy Pale Ale from Brauhaus Lemke

The last beer of the night....or was it?

We left Marcus Brau just after 11, loaded up google maps to get back to the hotel and got a good nights sleep to ensure we were in top condition for the rest of the weekend. At least that's what we should have done.

I hold my hands up here. Martin was ready to go back and for some reason I, completely out of character (as these days I generally prefer daytime drinking and hate being out late) decided I wasn't ready for bed. I was truly in the Berlin spirit and felt like I had a lot more to give this quiet Thursday night. Looking back a month later I now know that it was probably one of the worst decisions I've made since drinking an entire bottle of peach schnapps to myself on the first night in Ibiza back in 2004.

We walked in the opposite direction to the hotel and found a dark little bar (for reasons that will probably become clear I don't know the names of most bars or have any pictures from this point onward). Dark bar was ok. I remember a dj and very average beer. It was a friendly enough place. After a while we then went to Belushi's bar....otherwise known as backpacker central. These places are all over Europe, are cheap enough and usually attached to a hostel. We met a group of Americans and it's at this point where things started taking a turn for the worse as we were doing shots at the bar. I'm going to cut the story short now but flashbacks are....barman wanting to throw me out, arguing with American girl, American girl chasing me down the street trying to punch me. I know what I said to her to make her want to punch me but I won't put it here. Let's just say drunk Dave wasn't very complimentary.

After running away from the angry American we ended up back in dark bar (at around 2am). According to Martin I was doing tequila shots with the barman but I only remember one girl who kept saying 'dickhead' to everyone. She was quite funny and I think either her or her friends took us to the next place which turned out to be a gay venue. I have one flashback here which is that me and Martin were the only people in the place wearing tops. It was an absolute maze. I don't know what I was drinking and I lost Martin. To summarise....I remember running away from the Angry American just before 2, I remember men with no tops on in a maze of a nightclub and then waking up at 15:00 the next day. My mobile told me that I had walked 5km at 6am and managed to find our room. Martin's wallet told him he had taken a taxi back to the hotel around the same time. No idea.

The problem with this was that we had wasted an entire day in Berlin. The second problem was that I appeared to have the biggest hangover ever known to man. I felt absolutely awful and the Hertha match for me was in serious doubt.

After another couple of hours trying to sleep it off we rallied and got on the U-bahn to the Olympic stadium. It's about 14 stops from Alexanderplatz and takes around 35 minutes. It was truly the worst underground journey I have EVER had. I was stood next to the door because I kept thinking I'd have to jump off at the next stop to throw up. That's how bad I felt. Martin had a second wind and was talking to me but I didn't have the energy to reply and was just concentrating on making it to the stadium.

These next few photos are courtesy of Martin as I couldn't really function.

Berlin's finest at the very efficient ticket collection point.

The exterior of the Olympic stadium really is something else!

I was so angry with myself that I really couldn't enjoy the Hertha experience. The stadium was beautiful inside and out. There were no huge crowds and everything seemed to work really well. I loved the outside especially and wanted to walk around but I was dying and just wanted to get to my seat, sit down and get through the game.

We got to the seat, sitting down wasn't going to happen. The seats were above the ultras main tier but still in that area so nobody actually sat down for the game. My heart sank. I just kind of leaned on my chair for 90 mins and to make matters worse there was a British stag party a couple of rows behind us being rowdy and throwing beer. I was secretly hoping a Berlin fan was going to punch them but in the end all that happened was one of them spotted the Blackburn Rovers badge on my hat. Brilliant.

View from the main home sector.

The game itself was poor. I saw Mainz pick up away points for the second time in the space of 8 weeks and Hertha really disappointed. Nobody seemed capable of stringing a couple of passes together and Mainz took their chances to get a deserved win in front of 200 or so away supporters.

Not so super Hertha...

A word of warning as well...the beer in the stadium is terrible. It didn't matter for me (Martin bought me a pint which I managed 2 sips of) but it's a shame they don't have a local (or at least German) beer. Carlsberg is on sale and it's about as good as you would expect. Not very.

All in all it was good to attend a game here and the atmosphere was great. I'd like to come back when I'm not at death's door.

We headed back into town. I went straight to bed in a desperate attempt at salvaging the weekend and Martin...he went back to Belushi's!

Let's get one thing straight - I despise Burnley FC. I genuinely hate them more than any other club on the planet. My second match since starting this blog just happened to be one of theirs and as you can see from the picture above...I was right in the middle of their main fans. Happy days.

If you google 'most fierce English football rivalries' and Blackburn vs Burnley isn't in the top 10 you can forever ignore that website as a source of trustworthy information. I'm a Blackburn fan and Burnley is and forever will be our biggest game. It's the same for them even though they are currently playing in the top half of the premier league. I have the misfortune of being outnumbered at least 20-1 in terms of Burnley and Blackburn fans within my own family. Growing up was great...we were good, they were shit. Nowadays the table has turned somewhat...for now.

I've been to Turf moor many times watching Blackpool and was also in the Burnley home end watching them against John Barnes, Ian Rush and co in the FA Cup 3rd round. I know the town and the stadium well. Apart from one season we shared with them in the first division back in 2000-2001 we hardly played each other in my lifetime so my first opportunity to visit Turf Moor watching Rovers was when we drew them in the FA Cup in 2005. The match finished 0-0 and the situation could be summed up by the opening paragraph of the Guardian's match report that day.

'With riot vans parked outside and police helicopters hovering above, it is tempting to imagine the Chief Constable of the Lancashire police spraying a mouthful of coffee across his desk when he heard this would go to a replay.'

I had a ticket for the game after skipping university to stand in a 6 hour queue. A week before the match I got a letter from the Lancashire police. It was informing me that under no circumstances was I to drive to the game, take the train to the game or get any form of public transport to Burnley that day. My only option was to drive to Blackburn, park up at Ewood Park and get on the official supporters coach. Then and only then would I be given my ticket. The same rule applied to the poor Rovers fans living in Burnley, some of whom lived only a few metres away from the stadium. They had to travel to Blackburn, get the coach, go to the match, back to Blackburn then back to Burnley. There was no escape. The police closed the M65 motorway and we set off. 79 double decker coaches each surrounded by 3 police motorbikes. As we drove through Burnley itself it seemed like every house had its residents standing on the porches. Mums, dads, kids, babies...all giving us the finger and wanker signs. We felt pretty special. As we got off the coach we were escorted into the stadium by police. The noise for an hour before kick off, the entire 90 minutes and an hour after kick off was deafening. I can still remember every detail. That's a real football derby.

Thirteen years later and I'm back again. This whole thing came about as I drunkenly told my cousin I'd go to a game with her Burnley-mad 7 year old daughter. She reminded me in January and I thought 'why not?'. It was against Manchester City so there'd be a good chance they'd get a pasting and i'd heard so many stories of 7 year old Rosie on away trips (mingling with all the hardcore fans, pubs before games, playing pool with some pretty tough looking gentlemen) I felt I had to see it for myself.

One thing that strikes you as you approach Turf Moor is the current attention they have compared to just a few years prior. Sky and BT trucks everywhere, security, anti-terrorism barriers....they are premier league now and they don't look out of place.

The new kind of visitors at Turf Moor

Despite being a premier league club, walking around the outside of the ground it still has the traditional feeling it used to. The old ladies selling raffle tickets, the old men selling programmes and the smell of Bovril coming from the catering vans. The club shop looks like it's had a makeover but I didn't bother having a look for obvious reasons.

It was a cold day and obviously I couldn't wear my new rovers hat and scarf that's been serving me well throughout the Czech winter so I had to break out a Sparta and HC Litomerice combo. I had also brought Rosie a Sparta hat from Prague so at least she wasn't fully claret and blue. Rosie was under strict instructions not to mention to anyone that I was a Blackburn supporter and I have to say, given she's seven years old, I still felt a little nervous that she'd have an outburst mid-game. I was put even more on edge when she informed me in the stadium, with a straight face, that 'Lancashire is full of tits, fanny and clarets.'

with Rosie....my guide for everything Burnley and Sparta's new fan!

Burnley started the game quite well until Danilo hit an absolute sreamer from 25 yards to put City 1-0 up. Burnley lost all shape after that and it was one way traffic. Luckily for the home side it was only 0-1 at the break.

If you follow me on twitter you probably know that the current state of English football grinds my gears a bit as I think they have little respect for the football fan but one thing that would make it more bearable would be to relax the regulations. It's the same old story here and across most British stadiums. Half time comes and you are packed in like sardines as you are not allowed to drink alcohol within sight of the pitch. Madness. The funny thing is you can go to the exact same stadiums for rugby matches and happily enjoy a pint at your seat. It's a hangover from the 80's and needs to be stopped.

As I went downstairs at half time to attempt to order a pint of the finest Carlsberg (urgh) while trying not to be crushed I saw a sign for 'Bene & Hot £2'. This is a bizarre part of the Burnley experience that I guess everyone should sample (once). Benedictine is a french herbal liqueur and quite amazingly 30 percent all of Benedictine consumed in Britain is done so in Burnley. This all started with the 11th battalion of the East Lancashire regiment during the first world war. During the freezing winter of 1918 the battalion was based in Normandy (where Benedictine is made) and the troops drank it with hot water to keep warm. On their return they brought some back and passed on their taste for 'Bene & hot'. Today one working mens club in Burnley goes through over 1000 bottles a year and I'd be willing to bet that Turf Moor is the only stadium in the world offering it as a half time tipple.

Bene & Hot....only in Burnley!

I went back up for the second half and it was quite a strange experience to have everyone around me, on cue every seven minutes, singing 'No nay never....til we play Bastard Rovers...no neveeer no more.' I just stood in silence. I can handle that but around the hour mark the chants turned into 'Jack Walker is dead, dead, dead' which was a bit much.

Apart from the pathetic chants the atmosphere was poor. Burnley fans have never really been that good at making some home noise (that goes for Rovers as well) but the Man City fans were even worse. Away games in England are usually an opportunity to let go and outsing the home fans but City were absolutely shocking. They were at least a couple of thousand strong and hardly made a peep all game.

After soaking up pressure from City Burnley managed to snatch a late equaliser. I stood silence as everyone around me erupted with joy. I won't lie...I was a little bit happy. These were some of the world's best players against little old Burnley, their fans were rubbish and Burnley deserved the point.

It was an interesting afternoon in East Lancashire and I'm really hoping my next visit here is for the derby. Until we meet again, dingles!