Miu Miu

As far as pre-fall's concerned, Miu Miu's Greek-inspired Spring collection looks like ancient history. There's nothing left of the ready-holed linen and pleating, only a reiteration of the luxe values the line has acquired these days. Lots of fur, in the form of long-haired gilets and jackets, is involved, along with long dresses or skirts in caramel or rose faille with a bunchy waistline further emphasized by quirky stick-up pockets. Mildly more playful than the Prada line (angora berets, legwarmers with elastic stirrups to slip under shoes), this collection is nevertheless further evidence of how far Miu Miu has distanced itself from its initial reputation as a girly, accessible label.