so here's the pelican case after adding:
- main on off switch, which also turns off watt meter (on top out of view)
- 8s cell meter with HV/LV alarm and simple 'fuel gauge' meter (needs to be unplugged to deactivate)
- ON (full throttle)/OFF/ON (lower throttle) switch

from top:
- watt meter
- Pot control dial (looks like antenna, lol) for adjustments in the field (my testing)
- the wire is temp, to keep from case from wobbling back and forth - still need stabilizer bar on front side, esp if someone tries to push the go kart by pushing on the case

next order of business is sorting out the chain guide/chain length. the original motor sprocket was in a higher position, so the chain angle around the guide was less acute. this is where i've had it w/ new motor, but rubs the tire too:

here's another position that works w/ existing chain guide, but must cause a lot of unec friction:

seems logical that more of the chain that goes AROUND the sprocket, the less of a strain it is on the chain and the more efficient, right?

am i better off w/o a chain guide and shortening the chain? it's guaranteed to start popping off w/o a guide, isn't it?

i think the previous owner hit something w/ the rear wheel as well, cause it's got a bit of a wobble too, which affects chain ring and brake disc.

this position might be a happy medium, plus i could drill a hole to pop another bolt through the slot:

come on guys, give me some help!

the last little thing will be welding a band aid on the front end to strengthen the frame where the previous owner wrapped it around a tree. i straightened it out most of the way, but needs more. without a rider, the right wheel is slightly off the ground:

i anticipating needing to reweld that inside corner, so taped it when i last painted, but i'm thinking instead of welding 4" of angle iron on the bottom of the frame there after bending it into position...

can you make the steering tube collapsible so that a full on front collision doesn't push the steering rod back into their chest or face? maybe a piece of tubing for the center section of that rod so there is space to collapse before being pushed all the way back. split the tubing on the ends with a hacksaw and then use gear clamps to clamp the tubing around the rod on each end.

Ideally, you should remove that chain tensioner and shorten the chain to give you more links in contact with the motor sprocket to reduce wear and prevent chain skip.
You will probably have to find a way to make small adjustment to the motor mount to get ideal chain play (tight chains lose power !)

That is a pretty cool build, and I love that you got your kids right in on the project. I'm waiting for my daughter to get a little bit older before I start letting her around motorized objects. She's 3 1/2, and has been helping me build her play structure. Wood today, metal and magnets tomorrow!

The current political climate is akin to the discovery of anti-gravity for swine.

Live axle is standard on all track karts, so plenty of parts and know how around.
Handling will be very different though, you really need correct front end geometry ..king pin angles, castor, etc etc to give "weight jacking" on the frame and enough power to help with throttle steering, and good weight distribution.
It can be quite a learning experience to drive a live axle kart...especially on a low grip surface.
Two motors may be a better idea !

Hello.
I've read this thread with great interest. I purchased a used Zooma Ty Rod II and am doing an electric conversion very much like yours. This will be the chassis for my son's vehicle in the Power Racing Series race in September. We purchased a 48V motor with a controller and plan to use a 16s 12AH headway pack to power it.

I found the reverse switch that you purchased on Amazon. Did that reverse switch work out for your build?