Billing itself as a neighbourhood wine room, Forest & Marcy is just around the corner from sister establishment Forest Avenue, the much celebrated contemporary restaurant opened by John and Sandy Wyer. This Leeson Street newcomer may be flanked by other dining spots but neither neighbour offers the same degree of creativity and verve as Donegal chef Ciaran Sweeney’s modern Irish cooking.

There’s more than touch of Nordic flair to his concepts, but new riffs on traditional dishes like his signature Fermented potato bread, bacon and cabbage leave you in no doubt as to what’s driving the innovation here.

Lying behind a slate grey painted shop front with a large window and lovely rusting metal letters mounted on the wall above, the long, narrow room has a counter running almost its length; the cooking is done in a tiny kitchen at the back, and then often garnished and finished off at the counter in front of diners. The décor is all pared back and clean lined with large feature mirrors behind the bar, which would allow you watch yourself eat, should anyone wish to do so.

The backless stools by the bar and tucked into a handful of high tables make it a cosy space that not everyone will find comfortable. Ciaran Sweeney's food offering, however, has broad appeal, with its clever balance of inventive flavour pairings, innovative techniques and pretty presentation.

The simple menu – dishes are listed only by ingredients (smoked eel, broccoli, peanut, sesame, for example) with no extra clues as to cooking techniques – comprises tasting plates which are good for sharing. If you feel like a more formal experience, sign up for the 5-course chef’s choice menu (€45) and let the culinary surprises delight.

Smaller dishes like quinoa crackers with carrot, goat’s cheese and truffle or the house beef tartare with oyster, celeriac and tarragon are mini works of art, while the house-cured charcuterie is a great example of the commitment to and interest in quality Irish cooking.

Forest & Marcy’s wine offering is brilliantly curated. With 40 interesting choices it’s perfectly pitched for wine buffs, and prices reflect this. 36 of the list are available by the glass, with prices starting at €9. Many cost €12 or €14, or more. Given the tasting plates style menu glasses are a great option ad, while €18 may seem steep for a single glass of wine (Domaine des Enfant, Suis L’Etoile 2011, for example), Forest & Marcy’s list allows us enjoy these prized gems without having to fork out for a whole bottle (€75 in this case).

With great service as well as outstanding food and wine, you can expect a memorable and convivial experience at this poular restaurant - so be prepared to wait for a table.

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