The Business RDS tape deck in my 98 Z3 had dodgy pixels so I swapped it for a Sony Xplod 4x50w cd player. Got a proper harness and plugged in.

At 1st it worked ok, no radio signal though as it needs a male adapter but I can sort that, I popped a CD in and at 1st it worked, then started blinking, then it stopped. Nothing at all, I checked fuses 9 and 44 but they both are ok.

I then plugged the original head-unit back in and its not working now either!? Are there any other fuses that may cause this, or any suggestions?

British Zeds3rd Party Trader

That's a strange one, I am not sure what the fuses are for the radio off hand but are you sure there isn't a trapped wire on the harness as it is pretty tight behind the centre console and when you put the additional length of the ISO adapter on it gets even tighter so could have shorted something without realising. I would systamatically go through all the fuses and check if any are blown also don't forget the fuse in the radion itself which sometimes is inline with the wiring or actually on the back of the head unit.

Just be careful as car radio's are one of the single most causes of car fires and I have witnessed one myself where the entire loom in the car melted with smoke pooring from the speakers in the doors. Not that I want to frighten you but always best to be safe than sorry.

British Zeds

Are there any other fuse locations on a 98 UK Z3 other than under the bonnet?

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AFAIK there is just the one fuse box in the engine bay.
When I swapped my head unit, there was an abundance of wires, adapters and connectors. For both your old and new head units to be non-operational would suggest a wiring fault.
I would remove as many of the adapters that you can and check that there is power in the main harness. You should have both a permanent live and a switched live at the rear of the radio.
There are also a lot of sharp edges on the structural components behind the dashboard which could easily have damaged the wiring.

Are there any other fuse locations on a 98 UK Z3 other than under the bonnet?

Click to expand...

AFAIK there is just the one fuse box in the engine bay.
When I swapped my head unit, there was an abundance of wires, adapters and connectors. For both your old and new head units to be non-operational would suggest a wiring fault.
I would remove as many of the adapters that you can and check that there is power in the main harness. You should have both a permanent live and a switched live at the rear of the radio.
There are also a lot of sharp edges on the structural components behind the dashboard which could easily have damaged the wiring.

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Thanks Titan,

So its possible then that when I have pulled the main harness to access it I may have damaged something, There was power going to the original head unit, and for a short time to the new one, but as I said, that just blinked and then cut out, so no power going through the main harness now at all from what I can figure. :-\

I will investigate the wiring best I can, that said, there isnt much, if any slack to pull the original harness through.

SupporterBritish ZedsEast Anglian Crew

There is enough slack to pull the original harness out, put your hand right into the recess and feel around and you will feel another connector block that is usually caught up within the frame work. Free this off and there will be more slack.

British Zeds

So its possible then that when I have pulled the main harness to access it I may have damaged something, There was power going to the original head unit, and for a short time to the new one, but as I said, that just blinked and then cut out, so no power going through the main harness now at all from what I can figure. :-\
I will investigate the wiring best I can, that said, there isnt much, if any slack to pull the original harness through.

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It certainly sounds as though something has been damaged. Although it may "look" OK, in reality the insulation may be intact but the internal wires are fractured.
Any slight movement or re-positiojning of the wires can be sufficient to temporarily re-make the circuit.
You really need a multi-meter fastened to a good earth and a sharp probe to be able to stick through the insulation and into the wire - and lots of patience :-?

There is enough slack to pull the original harness out, put your hand right into the recess and feel around and you will feel another connector block that is usually caught up within the frame work. Free this off and there will be more slack.