In my opinion three of the five most impressive sights in
sub-Saharan Africa are in southern Africa, namely Table Bay & Mountain in
South Africa's Cape Town, the dunes at Sossusvlei in Namibia and Victoria
Falls, Zimbabwe. The fourth and fifth ones? Ngorongoro Crater and Mt.
Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania.

Northern Botswana is in a class of its own: In just 10 days
there in a late May & June fly-in safari, we saw close on 50 lions -
twice seen hunting - once for buffalo and the other time for kudu; leopard on
three different occasions including one with the remains of an impala in a tree
and another one with a youngster; African wild dog three times, once just
seconds after they had taken down an impala; and cheetah twice, the latter
sighting of a female knocking down and 'delivering' an impala to her five
youngsters. This is not to mention the multiple other fantastic sightings
including scores of elephants, magnificent Sable antelope, a martial eagle on a
fresh impala kill, a 'Giraffic Park' scene at one of the camps with as many as
23 giraffe in one area, all staring at cheetah and some superb night drives
(including my first ever sighting of Aardwolf).

My lasting impression of a September Discoverer Exploration
Safari such as the Great Wilderness Journey is the diversity of the
trip: a tremendous variety of wildlife, birds, & scenery observed in an
ever-changing landscape, and equally diverse activities: game drives, night
drives, walking, boating, mokoro outings & an occasional moment or two to
relax or to enjoy the superb food. This simply has to be the best full-service
overland safari in Botswana! The group was fantastic and we had the best
time!

On a different Adventurer Exploration Safari such as the
Migration Routes Safari (several trips now available) we saw three
different prides of lions (26 in all) in Moremi and Savuti, spending several
hours observing and photographing them at a kill, with hardly another vehicle
in sight. Other highlights included finding Pel's Fishing Owl at a delightful
mokoro trails camp deep in the Okavango Delta - and watching a herd of
elephants swim across the swollen Chobe River, just the tips of their trunks
protruding from the water. A real 'National Geographic' moment!

On a recent winter (May-June) visit we saw 45 species of mammals
just in South Africa, not to mention more than 400 different species of
birds. Many private game lodges adjacent to Kruger Park offer consistently
excellent game-viewing. At the best lodges, such as Mala Mala, the so-called
'Big Five' mammals can all be seen just about every day. A typical recent
October day had the following reported:

16 Lions at the entrance to the camp

60 Elephants in the river in front of the camp

400 Buffalo on the flood plain in front of the camp

One leopard in a tree about 1,000 yards from camp

Styx pride of Lions on Picadilly opposite the camp

Rhino at Campbell Koppies

The game viewing report for that October featured lion, leopard,
buffalo, rhino and elephant seen every day. A total of 48 lions were seen on
October 6 and a total of 9 different leopards were seen on Oct 22. An average
of 26 lions were seen every day during October.

TANZANIAOur Tanzania associates Tanzania Photographic
Safaris offer a variety of trips which represent excellent value for money,
such as the 12-day 'Journey into Tanzania' safari. This superbly guided
safari  with guaranteed window seating in 4-wheel drive vehicles (not
miniibuses ) includes all the highlights of Northern Tanzania namely
Tarangire National Park, the Rift Valley, the Ngorongoro highlands and
Ngorongoro Crater, as well as several days in a mobile tented camp in the
Serengeti. The trip is operated monthly except in April and May.

Compared with the usual 'run of the mill' Tanzania itineraries, I
believe the TPS trips - such as the 12-day 'Safari Style' scheduled
departure - are more imaginative, and offer more opportunities for walking, a
great break from the long game-drives in the Serengeti. The safari also include
both Lake Victoria and a 2-night stay at Ndarakwai Camp, in the Western
Kilimanjaro area, where guests experience the classic view of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
The safari has an ideal mix of accommodation: one night in a hotel in Arusha, 4
nights in permanent tented camps, 4 nights at lodges and 2 nights in a mobile
tented camp. All accommodation is 'en suite' so there is no 'roughing it' or
participation camping.

This safari is operated twice monthly throughout the year, except
in April and May. There are also monthly departures on the superb 'Adventure
Tanzania' safari, which includes the fabulous Kirawira Camp and Rubondo
Island Camp on Lake Victoria. For a longer stay in East Africa, we would
recommend adding a few days in an area such as Kenya's Samburu, in the 'dry
north' where both black and white rhino may be see, as well as some very
special endemic mammals such as Grevy's Zebra and Reticulated Giraffe.

In April 2000 I undertook an educational trip to Tanzania, and I
am very enthusiastic about the country, its tourism attractions and especially
its people. They are remarkably friendly and gracious towards visitors. The
highlights were undoubtedly the Serengeti, where we ran smack into the annual
wildebeest migration (it was amazing), and Ngorongoro Crater, which exceeded
all my expectations. I think Tanzania is perfect for people who want to combine
wildlife and culture, and we can also offer excellent programs for families
with young children.

KENYAOur clients who have recently traveled to Kenya
have all been extremely pleased with the quality of the game-viewing there, and
the cultural experience is without rival. Our best advice is to go with a
private vehicle and driver. The Classic Rift Valley itinerary offers
good value for a private safari with a dedicated driver-guide in a 4-wheel
drive Land Rover through-out. The Origins guides are amongst Kenya's few KPSGA
SILVER CERTIFIED professional guides. In our opinion, this is the ideal
introductory safari for the first time visitor to East Africa. It is perfect
 you will see approximately 35 big mammal species, 3500 bird species, 3
distinct tribal groups, and much more.

Comparable group trips are invariably run on a very tight
schedule and many of them spend much too much time in transit, with a minimum
of time allocated for actual game-viewing. Some of the packaged itineraries you
may see, have lots of big names such as Mt. Kenya Safari Lodge, Treetops etc.
but preciously little time actually looking at wildlife, which is after all the
purpose of a safari.

The wildebeest migration (depending upon local rainfall
patterns) usually arrives in the Masai Mara (from the Serengeti) sometime in
July every year. However, the Mara is anything but 'empty' outside of the
"migration season". All the animals that can be seen during the migration, can
be seen all year round. And they can be seen in big numbers. The big prides of
lions do not migrate with the wildebeests, only the bachelors without a home
range do. Most leopards and cheetahs are territorial too and do not migrate
either. Many animals are actually moving out of the Mara during the migration,
because the big herds of wildebeests compete with them for food. According to
an article by Stelfox (Herbivores in Kenya, Journal of Wildlife Management),
this is how the wildebeest migration effects other species:

July (migration)

June (before the migration)

Wildebeests 819,500

101,700

Zebra 107,800

65,200

Tommies 90,500

106,500

Grants 18,500

19,900

Topi 25,500

31,500

Buffalo 31,500

30,000

Kongoni 5,000

8,900

Impala 51,800

59,200

Eland 4,600

8,500

As can be seen, for almost all species the numbers are actually
higher in June (or for that matter any other month before July). Only
wildebeests and zebras migrate in really big numbers. The migration is
unpredictable; this year (2005) the wildebeest have actually moved back across
the border into Tanzania, after some local veld fires in Tanzania.

So even if you travel to Kenya outside of the 'migration' time
(July through October) you will still see a lot of wildlife.

Are Kenya and Tanzania
over-commercialized? They certainly appear to be from some materials, but are
they still the best place for game viewing and cultural experiences?

Too many mini-buses chasing predator sightings is not a very
common occurrence in east Africa, although it can happen in some parts of the
Masai Mara and in Ngorongoro Crater, especially in the high season. However, it
can largely be avoided by selecting a good operator and staying away from the
crowds, in smaller camps. The Serengeti, for example, is so vast that crowding
is hardly a problem, even in high season.

There is no doubt that areas such as Kenya's Masai Mara National
Reserve and Tanzania's Serengeti Plains and Ngorongoro Crater offer a
spectacular wildlife-viewing experience, especially if a visit can be timed to
witness the annual wildebeest migration. As I saw for myself in March/April
2000, Ngorongoro Crater harbors a wonderful concentration of wildlife species
on the continent, including herds of wildebeest, antelope and zebras which
attract the large predators in considerable numbers. The Serengeti is unrivaled
for sheer number of migratory animals and big game. With over 35 species of
large game and 350 species of birds, the Serengeti is a must for any Tanzanian
safari. Here you'll find antelope of all varieties, huge herds of gazelle,
zebra and wildebeest; plentiful lions, as well as cheetah and other
predators.

Compared with the great southern African game parks, the Mara has
a greater abundance of animals, including large predators, and the wide open
plains make game-viewing very rewarding. If you visit during the August
wildebeest migration, you can see as many as 150,000 animals in one area. The
Mara is good at any time of the year, however - there is always something to
see.

If you are intent on combining culture and wildlife, East Africa
has no equal. Nowhere else can you see Masai herdsmen with their cattle side by
side with wild animals such as buffalo. In Tanzania's northern circuit, for
example, there are many opportunities to visit Masai homesteads or cultural
bomas, experience market days in the towns and villages, and to generally
experience how wildlife and people co-exist. Another reason to specifically
visit East Africa is to view the annual wildebeest migration. This spectacle of
seeing hundreds of thousands of animals congregated in one area has no equal in
southern Africa, except for the zebra migration in the Kalahari in
March/April.

How do Botswana, Namibia, Zambia,
South Africa and Zimbabwe compare (with east Africa) for game viewing?

You could go on safari to any of these countries and see enough
game to last you a life-time. The trick is in selecting the right venues, time
& operator.

BOTSWANA is the place to go for excellent game-viewing and
remarkably diverse scenery, especially if you really want to 'get away from it
all'; most of the lodges there are on private concessions where there are few
other visitors.

Conventional wisdom has it that the best time to visit Botswana is
in the dry season (June through October) and while that generally holds true,
there is much to be said for the 'Green Season' between December and March, and
for the shoulder season from April to June. From April through May, the annual
flood moves into Botswana's Okavango Delta. It is an amazing sight to see the
ribbons of water from the air, and to observe the changes on the ground, where
a particular spot may be dry one day, only to be covered by a thin sheet of
water the next.

The Okavango Delta rates very high in my personal "Travel Hall of
Fame". It is not inexpensive when done the right way, which, in my opinion, is
to fly in and stay at two or three first-class lodges. A couple of days at a
'mixed-activity' camp (offering both game drives and mokoro outings) and three
more at a good game-viewing camp, as well as a visit to the Chobe-Linyanti area
should suffice.

Savvy travelers will know that the way to enjoy the best of
Botswana but avoid paying top dollar, is to travel in the 'Green Season' from
early December through the end of March. The Green Season rates are quite a bit
lower, and this is a great time to be in Botswana, especially if you are keen
on birding and photography. We have had rave reviews from every single client
of ours who have traveled to Botswana in the Green Season, over the last few
years (please see Testimonial pages).

The Moremi Wildlife Reserve is rated as one of the top two
eco-destinations in the world by the editors of the authoritative Weissmann
Travel Reports. Here's what they say: "What makes this park so spectacular is
that it features an 'ark'-full of big game -- lions, leopards, hyenas,
giraffes, elephants -- as well as a dramatic array of bird-life. The reserve
encompasses the ecologically unique Okavango Delta, so visitors can go on a
game drive in the morning, then, in the afternoon, glide along narrow,
papyrus-lined streams to watch eagles, herons, storks, egrets and cranes soar
overhead."

A lucky few guests at Wilderness Safaris' Mombo Camp on
Chief's Island in the Moremi experienced the 'game drive of the year' in
September last year:

"This must rate as one of the best game drives of the year. One
vehicle in one day had this experience. During the morning drive they saw five
different leopards before 07h30. They then saw a lion kill a buffalo and
continued on to see wild dog hunting. During the afternoon game drive they saw
a huge breeding herd of elephant & then saw a cheetah kill an impala. They
also viewed buffalo and all the plains game. After their game drive while
sitting at the bar in camp they saw two wild dog packs fighting in camp and
then both packs fighting hyena. The guests had an unbelievable time!"

Mombo has to be the predator capital of Africa. On one occasion,
Wilderness Safaris' Mike Myers spent only one night there with a journalist.
They did a morning and afternoon game drive and this is part of what they saw:
Lion on wildebeest kill; nine different cheetah in four different sightings;
four different leopard - including a group of three which were close up with
all sorts of incredible interactions between the three leopard; African wild
cat; a herd of 30 plus elephant; lots of buffalo everywhere; a hyena den with
five pups... the list goes on and on. They were never out of sight of general
game in large numbers too.

Here is what world-famous photographer Paul Augustinus had to say
after a summer (February) visit to Mombo: 'The game viewing from the camp was
obscenely good. One day a group of guests arrived at midday. Linda was giving
them their orientation chat in the lounge as they sipped their frosty drinks.
They could hardly concentrate as in front of the lodge two elephants walked by,
a group of buffalo were sitting in the shade of one of the trees and in the
distance two male lions walked down and drank from the marsh lagoon. One of the
buffalo then rushed the lions and chased them off. The guests hadn't been in
Mombo for more than ten minutes and they had seen lion elephant and buffalo
plus interaction! They were impressed no end!

The views from the tents at Mombo are better than Treetops in
Kenya - when it was at its very best. From our own sala in Tent 7 we saw lions
and lionesses at midday on six of the fourteen days we were there - it was hard
to lie back and rest, there was so much going on. Who knows what happened on
that floodplain when we were out on drives in the mornings and evenings?
Frankly I did not want to know as on several occasions we came back to find
buffalo, elephant, lion, lechwe and bushbuck in front of the camp right next to
the main deck - but the good light for photography was gone. It was tricky
deciding whether to go out for game drives or stay in camp!"

Ideally one should combine Victoria Falls, Chobe-Linyanti Game
Reserve and the Okavango Delta/Moremi. If you're on a budget, consider an
overland 'Adventure' type safari from Maun, Botswana to the Victoria Falls.
These trips, such as the Migration Routes and Pans, Sands and
Deserts and their Discoverer equivalent, the Great Wilderness
Journey and 'Great Botswana Journey' have received rave reviews from
practically every single guest we have booked since 1990. Overland camping
trips will be enjoyed by people who are sociable and who love to have other
people around to share the experience. The overland trips in Botswana as well
as in Namibia are definitely the most 'educational' trips available, as one has
the same professional guide for the duration of the trip, who pays attention to
every aspect of the natural history.

NAMIBIA should be added to any Africa travel list. The
magnificent dunes at Sossusvlei, the stunning geology of the Skeleton Coast,
driving across the Namib Desert, the vast expanse of the salt pan in Etosha,
the fort at Namutoni and many other places are delightful and easy to get to.
Namibia is definitely my personal favorite because it has the unique
combination of excellent game-viewing in Etosha and the true desert experience
of the Namib. Namibia has vast areas of true wilderness and it also offers some
of the best opportunities in Africa for cultural experiences such as meeting
the Himba people, one of the continent's least disturbed and most traditional
tribes. Swakopmund - which is a little bit like a slice of Germany in the
desert - is a delightful holiday destination with many activities. Wilderness
Safaris now offer 4 and 5-day trips inside the Skeleton Coast Park, one of
Namibia's most intriguing areas. Another very popular trip is their 6-night
'Best of Namibia' wing safari, which includes the massive dunes at Sossusvlei,
the fascinating Damaraland Camp and Ongava. Wilderness Safaris' latest
additions in Namibia, namely Palmwag Rhino Camp (rhino tracking & lots of
other wildlife) and Serra Cafema (a desert oasis on the Cunene River) offer yet
more interesting facets of this truly unique country.

Wilderness Safaris' new range of Discovery and Adventurer safaris
in Namibia highlight several exciting facets of this country. Please call or
write for itineraries & further details of the 12-night Great Namibian
Journey, 10-night Spirit of the Namib, 5-night Namibian Mountain
Bike Safari, and 7-night Desert Rhino and Elephant Walking
Expedition.

Wilderness Safaris' 'Spirit of the Namib' trip is a great
introduction to Namibia, as it traverses the central and northern-western
areas, where the unique hyper-arid Namib desert is encountered at its best.
This trip will get you close to nature in the broader sense: nature and
wildlife and particularly the desert & dune experience. At a cost of
$3,495.00 p.p. sharing (low season mid Nov. through June 2007) or $3,570.00
p.p. (high season July through mid-Nov 2007) this 10-day guided safari offers
exceptionally good value for money. While it is billed as a more basic
'Adventurer' style safari, guests only spend two nights in a domed tent camp,
at the Kulala Adventurer Camp in Sossusvlei. All the other nights are spent
either in comfortable lodges or in 'Discoverer' category camps. The price
includes a charter flight from Windhoek to Etosha, which is unusual for any
safari in this price category.

SOUTH AFRICA delivers good value for money as an African
safari destination due to the relative weakness of the South African currency
(although it has strengthened considerably lately). South Africa is also the
best place for rhino - both black and white. At the rate these animals are
disappearing elsewhere on the continent, my advice would be to go and see them
first! In terms of value for money I don't think you can beat Kwazulu-Natal's
Hluhluwe-Umfolozi or Itala Game Reserves. Combine this with a few days at
Rocktail Bay Lodge on the Indian Ocean & Ndumo Wilderness Lodge and you've
got yourself much more than 'just another safari'. There are several private
game reserves adjacent to Kruger Park - such as Tanda Tula, Honeyguide and
Notten's , which offers superior game-viewing, comfortable accommodations and
great all-round hospitality at very affordable prices.

Game-viewing in South Africa offers more in the line of variety
than in quantity. On a recent trip to South Africa we saw no less than 45
mammals, including some rarely seen species such as Cape Clawless Otter,
Bat-eared Fox, Aardvark and Striped Polecat. But we never did see huge herds of
game so don't bargain on the latter. South Africa has a lot more going for it
than just wild-life, though: you simply have to spend a few days in the
south-western Cape with its rich historical and cultural heritage, magnificent
scenery and tons of things to do and see, including the Cape wine route, Table
mountain, Robben Island, and the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.

The Garden Route is somewhat over-rated in my opinion. I
much prefer going up the West Coast to the Cedarberg, and stay at Bushmanskloof
Lodge which is really great - it feels like Africa. The Southern San (Bushman)
rock art walks there are superb, and so are the game drives. Terrific
accommodation too. Closer to Cape Town there are fabulous places like
Bartholomeus Klip (near Paarl) which has superb accommodation and cuisine in a
working farm setting, with game drives on their heritage site. Then there's the
Overberg, with penguins and whales in spring; Cape Agulhas and De Hoop National
Park are also interesting places to visit, with the emphasis on unique Cape
flora and fauna. There are two ostrich farms in the south-western Cape, one on
the West Coast and one near Cape Point, as an alternative to Oudtshoorn. One of
the positives about all these areas is that they are no more than a 3 hour
drive from Cape Town.

Wilderness Safaris are now operating several new camps  as
well as a scheduled Discoverer Safaris (6-night Great Zambia Journey) in
Zambia's Kafue National Park. The northern sector of Kafue is what Wilderness
Safaris searches for when locating its camps. It is remote, wild and diverse
with vast tracts of pristine 'pure wilderness'. The Wilderness team who
initially visited the area came back raving about the wilderness aspect ('The
wildest area I've ever seen' according to Keith Vincent) and also the diversity
of the region.

The Lunga River in the east is a permanent tributary of the Kafue
River and beyond its narrow strip of riverine forest the landscape is patterned
with broad-leafed woodland, open plains, floodplains and island thickets. In
the north west of Kafue the Busanga Plains is a vast savannah of seasonally
inundated grasslands dotted with riverine islands and areas of broad-leafed
woodland.

Mammals are very diverse and aside from the high profile
species, such as Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and Cheetah, commonly seen in
countries like Botswana and Zimbabwe, a number of other species, not readily
encountered further south are often seen. Chief among these are Puku, Defassa
Waterbuck and Lichtenstein's Hartebeest with rarer species such as Oribi and
Roan regularly encountered. A further unusual species is the Tree Hyrax 
a small population of which is resident in the camp at Lunga, their calls
echoing through the camp at night.

This notwithstanding it is the high profile species that most
guests are after and in this regard Kafue certainly delivers the goods! Good
Lion and fantastic Cheetah (some of the best in Africa) sightings are common,
Leopard viewing is a regular highlight, Wild Dogs are occasionally seen,
Elephant and Buffalo sightings are excellent, and there are abundant Hippo and
good numbers of plains game such as Zebra and Wildebeest.

Birdlife is abundant and includes many species that do not
occur elsewhere in southern Africa. Zambia's single endemic species, Chaplin's
Barbet, does occur, but the thrill is to be found in the diversity and
abundance with nearly 500 species recorded and good concentrations of species
such as Wattled Crane (Zambia contains more than half the world's population)
and various pelicans, storks and herons. Other specials of the plains are
Locust Finch, Rosy-throated and Fulleborn's Longclaws, Kori and Denham's
Bustards, while birds of the woodland and riverine areas include Ross's Turaco,
Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Pale-billed Hornbill, Miombo Pied Barbet and
Red-capped Crombec.

ZIMBABWE: The Wilderness Safaris camps in Zimbabwe are
being filled by savvy Africa travelers who know that it is during these times
that one enjoys the finest wildlife encounters, at attractive prices. Safari
prices in Zimbabwe are very reasonable and the quality is exceptional, as the
staff in the camps go out of their way to ensure that each and every visitor
has a great stay. There have been no problems at all in Victoria Falls, Hwange,
Kariba and Mana Pools, the areas which our clients visit. We do not encourage
visits to Harare or self-drive trips to Zimbabwe.

Game-viewing in Hwange - and other Zimbabwe parks - is generally
excellent in late winter to early spring (July through October), and you should
see between 25 and 35 different species of mammals, not counting bats &
small rodents. You simply can't beat Hwange for elephant, at the right time of
the year. Zimbabwe has many small safari camps which offer a high quality,
personalized service. And it has Victoria Falls which offers not only the
spectacle of the famous falls, but also lots of adventure activities such as
white-water rafting, canoeing, bungee jumping & flights by helicopter and
micro-light aircraft.

The animals you are likely to see during a week's stay in
Botswana, for instance, will include elephant, giraffe, lion, zebra, buffalo,
black-backed jackal, hyena, warthog, hippopotamus, wildebeest, impala, puku,
tsessebe, kudu, reedbuck, waterbuck, lechwe, steenbok, duiker, baboon, vervet
monkey, tree squirrel, mongoose and crocodile. Animals that you may see with a
bit of luck and some night or water drives include leopard, cheetah, sable
antelope, sitatunga, bush baby, African wild cat, bat-eared fox, side-striped
jackal, wild dog, honey badger, genet, aardwolf, and more. A lot depends on
which ecological areas are visited and on luck, but all these animals inhabit
the regions we visit.

The birding is wonderful in southern Africa with about 600 species
being present. Southern Africa offers some of the most diverse habitat -
especially in northern Botswana and Zimbabwe - while Namibia has a wealth of
endemic bird species. The area is covered by a selection of excellent field
guides (detailed information provided upon booking). Wilderness Safaris is
renowned for emphasizing more than just the 'big mammals' on safari, and their
guides are all familiar with the birds of their particular areas, while some
are bird experts in their own right. The bird-watching in East Africa is every
bit as good; on a recent trip we saw just on 300 species over less than 10 days
of hard driving between camps. The best months for birding are from about
November through March, when many intra-African and European migrants are
present, and when many birds are in breeding plumage.

Is Victoria Falls an
absolute must or do the crowds and 18 hole golf course make it too
tacky?

Victoria Falls is to Zimbabwe what the Grand Canyon is to Arizona:
a definitive travel destination, but one night is probably sufficient, unless
you're interested in some of the adventure-type activities. Some people in the
business actually go as far as saying that if you haven't see the Falls, you
haven't really seen southern Africa... The area immediately surrounding the
Falls has so far been spared from development. For sheer spectacle, nothing can
touch the Falls at peak flood in April or May. Nice weather at that time of the
year, too. The white-water rafting experience in the Zambezi down from Victoria
Falls is awesome especially when conditions are ideal (September/October). Not
for the faint at heart!

How long does game viewing stay
interesting? Should we select a tour that mixes cultural experiences and
game-viewing or stick with game-viewing only? (We are thinking of a trip of
about 14 days)

Game-viewing can get repetitive if you stay in the same habitat
too long, which translates into seeing pretty much the same vegetation,
animals, birds, etc. The key is habitat diversity: look for an itinerary which
has a mix of three or four major habitat types such as wetlands, highveld
savannah (open grassland dotted with trees), acacia or thornveld savannah (aka
bushveld) and riverine bush. By all means select a tour which will look at all
aspects of the natural history of an area, not just game. Try not to get too
caught up 'Big Five' fever, i.e. sightings of lion, leopard, rhino, Cape
buffalo & elephant. There's much more to be discovered about the African
wilderness, particularly its incredible bird-life, smaller mammals, reptiles
& amphibians, even insects and butterflies. Not to mention the trees and
other plants... If you are receptive to learning about all aspects of the
natural history, your trip will be much more meaningful and enjoyable. Please
don't set yourself up for disappointment by focusing on just one or two of the
big cats: especially leopard and cheetah. They are not always seen.

It all depends. For a first visit to Africa - unless you're young,
adventurous & traveling as a backpacker - my advice would be to go on a
small group safari. You really have three main options (and may opt to combine
two or more of these):

a) Join a small-group safari (scheduled departure).

These safaris, which range from luxury fly-in trips to more basic,
'Adventurer' safaris, are for people who enjoy the camaraderie of traveling
with a few other like-minded people and who appreciate the many advantages of
having a professional guide on hand at all times. I highly recommend them for
first-time visitors to Southern and East Africa. Sharing the experience often
makes it much more rewarding & having a guide to identify birds, trees
& mammals can make all the difference. The cross-country safaris are also
ideal for single travelers of either sex. Overland guided safaris can be
tailor-made for private family groups or friends who'd like to travel together.
The ideal group size is eight.

If you will enjoy the group experience, if you do not mind an
occasional long drive to get from one area to the next, and are looking for a
broadly educational trip (not just big game!), you will enjoy the overland
safaris. Standards of accommodation varies: even on the more expensive trips
such as the Discoverer series in Botswana, there is some mobile tented camping
involved. However you get close to nature, you are invariably the only people
in the camp, and you have a guide who can answer just about any question you
may have.

b) Fully independent fly-in safari

For the independently-minded, savvy traveler, this is the way to
go. You decide - in consultation with your African travel specialist - how long
you want to stay in particular areas & lodges and choose the activities you
like, whether it's game-viewing, walking, bird-watching, fishing or all of
these. A single guide does not accompany you all the way, as you go on
game-drives and other activities (such as mokoro rides or foot safaris) with
knowledgeable local guides. The fly-in safaris are quite sociable too: even
though you are not part of a group as such, you meet up with interesting people
at the various lodges, where meals are taken together and there is ample
opportunity for socializing.

This is the best choice for someone who does not mind paying a bit
more for quality accommodations (all with en-suite facilities) throughout. It
has been my experience that game-viewing (especially for big game and cats) is
best on a fly-in safari, or at least it is more consistent. The guides at the
camps pretty much know where game is concentrated at any particular time, and
the various vehicles out on game drives are in radio contact, so everyone is
alerted to sightings of special interest.

c) Self-drive safari

The more cost-conscious traveler may consider a self-drive safari
in South Africa, or Namibia. These two countries (and especially South Africa)
have an excellent road & air network, which makes it easy to get around
quickly and relatively safely, without having to resort to 4-wheel drive
vehicles. Just plan your trip carefully & book well in advance, especially
for the July & December holidays. Please note: South Africa in particular
has a bad road safety record and road deaths there are amongst the highest (per
vehicle-miles traveled) of any country in the world. Keep in mind that you are
most likely to be injured in a road accident, than through any other activity,
in Africa or practically anywhere else. We do not recommend extended driving
around the major cities in South Africa, or long-distance travel cross-country.
Night-driving should be avoided.

Is it worth paying more than
$400 per person, per night for a fly-in safari?

Why would anybody pay $500 to $850 per person per day for a
safari? There are the obvious reasons such as staying in an elegant, romantic
'out of Africa' style tent, enjoying all the comforts of a hotel, including
excellent food and personalized service. In my opinion the two most important
factors, however, are privacy and the quality of the guiding.

The most expensive lodges are almost always located in private
concession areas where access is limited to the guests staying at the lodge(s)
on the property. Ask anybody who has spent some time on a fly-in safari in
Northern Botswana, and they will invariably mention seeing few other vehicles.
The privacy and exclusivity of these camps create a wilderness experience that
cannot be compared with a stay at a public reserve. I've had some wonderful
(inexpensive) experiences in places like Etosha, Kalahari Gemsbok Park, and
Kruger Park - which I have visited dozens of times - yet I have also had visits
there marred by foolish behavior on the part of other visitors, such as illegal
off-road driving, hooliganism and overcrowding, with sometimes dozens of cars
converging on a 'kill' scene. Every visit is different and you can have the
most sublime wildlife experience in a public reserve (I sure have), but by
spending the dollars to stay in a private concession, you do not run the risk
of having your vacation spoiled by some idiot throwing a beer bottle at
sleeping lions. Most people do not return to Africa year after year, so for
them it is a wise investment to spend a bit more in order to enjoy the
proverbial trip of a life-time.

At private game lodges such as MalaMala in South Africa and Mombo
in Botswana, the quality of the guiding is superb. Let me give you an example:
a couple of years ago at Mombo, we were fortunate to have Hayden Oake as our
guide. A game drive with Hayden, a charming fellow with a keen sense of humor,
is a veritable education. Like all the best guides in the business, he not only
finds the animals and birds and other wildlife, but he interprets their
behavior, explains their interaction with each other, and even predicts what
will happen next. Being with someone like Hayden Oake in Botswana is like being
'in' one of those National Geographic films.

I'd suggest that if you get a 'NO' answer on any of the following
three questions, you should think twice before dealing with a particular
operator or his/her local agent:

Is the departure guaranteed? There is nothing as
frustrating as booking for a trip, spending months in keen anticipation only to
be given back your deposit with a lame excuse that the tour was not fully
supported or whatever. It happens, so make sure.

Does the company legally operate an office within the
country where the tour is going to take place and does it own the vehicles
& equipment and employ the guides? It is essential to go with a group
which has in-country back-up, IN CASE THINGS GO WRONG. I cannot adequately
stress this point: having a broken down vehicle replaced or an ill guide
substituted by someone equally capable - or not - can make either of these a
minor inconvenience or a major disaster.

Will there be 10 or less persons in the group? As an
avid bird-watcher, I am perhaps over-sensitive about this, but believe me,
"nature tour" with more than 10 or so people becomes an oxymoron. More like
"survival of the fittest" in terms of space in the vehicle, positioning for
photographs, enjoying nature peacefully and quietly and so on.

I have been an agent for Wilderness Safaris (head office in
Johannesburg where they operate a full-service travel agency, with affiliates
in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Malawi) since 1990 and recommend them
highly. In Tanzania, we work with Tanzania Photographic Safaris, and our Kenya
associates are Origins Safaris, based in Nairobi.

On an African safari, the quality of the guide is a make-or-break
factor, so don't compromise on this: a good guide will make a safari
interesting - even excellent - no matter the weather or how much game you see.
Wilderness Safaris' guides on the overland safaris are all top-notch, going
through rigorous interviews before even being hired. Most of their guides have
been with them for many years and their evaluation sheets are proof of the
excellent service and standard of safari they run. Tanzania Photographic
Safaris (Tanzania) and Origins Safaris (Kenya) employ equally top-notch guides,
which I know from first-hand experience.

Safari flights in the Okavango Delta are probably as safe as
similar light aircraft operations most anywhere in the world: much safer than
ground transportation but not as safe as commercial jet aircraft. The aircraft
are well-maintained and - just like in the USA - completely overhauled after a
pre-determined number of hours. You'll find that the so-called "bush pilots"
are, like the vast majority of their colleagues all over the world, very
concerned about safety, that they follow correct procedures and that they will
not operate an unserviceable aircraft, or overload it (so watch that luggage
limit!) After all, their lives are at stake, too.

What about personal safety? I've
heard a lot about crime & car-jackings in South Africa?

Urban crime is a problem in South Africa, but the country's major
cities such as Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban are no more dangerous to
travelers than other large African cities such as Nairobi, Kenya or Harare,
Zimbabwe. As long as you take good precautions, you should be fine, although
the downtown area of Johannesburg is best avoided. Outside of the cities,
traveling is safe and relaxed. Botswana and Namibia are for the most part
politically stable and peaceful, and traveling in those countries is not as
stressful as visiting South Africa. Zimbabwe has been experienced political
unrest, but it is largely confined to Harare and tourist areas such as Victoria
Falls, Hwange, Mana Pools and Kariba have not been affected. Personal safety is
dealt with in detail in our pre-trip information material.

Obviously, there is a certain degree of danger when you are in the
bush with wild animals. However, you will always be accompanied by an
experienced guide. Accidents are very rare and the camps have excellent safety
records. Provided you use common sense you should be perfectly safe.

What are things to watch for as
far as price is concerned? Where do you get ripped off?

The most important thing is to make sure that all the essential
things associated with the trip are included in the quoted price: ground
transportation, accommodation, meals, excursions, guide/driver service and
transfers. Some operators tend to confuse the issue with a very low up-front
quote for a bare-bones trip which is not what you want and not what you end up
paying for, once all the 'extras' are added in.

It depends. Generally speaking, game-viewing peaks from July
through September, but it is good year-round. October through February can get
very hot in northern Botswana and Zimbabwe, especially in the Zambezi Valley.
For bird-watching, the summer months are better, i.e. October through
February/March. Victoria Falls is at its best in April/May, while Cape Town's
nicest weather is February, March & April. Namibia and other arid areas
(such as the Kalahari) are at their best in March, April & May, just after
the 'rainy' season (what there is of it). Low or shoulder season safari prices
are available from November through June. The lowest prices (in Botswana &
Zimbabwe) are for the 'Green Season' from December through March.

In East Africa, it rarely gets unbearably hot, although some
people prefer to avoid the 'long rains' which fall in April & May. The dry
season from July to September is considered the optimum time for the western
& northern Serengeti & Kenya's Masai Mara, while December, January and
February are arguably the best three months for the southern shortgrass plains
of the Serengeti. The months of March through May and June are low season in
East Africa, and offer good value for money.

Look for quality and value for money. Don't end up spending
$2,000.00 or more on airfares only to be disappointed by a poorly run, inferior
safari. Ask for references from previous clients and make sure that the trip
has been operated before (don't be a guinea pig!). Repetition equals
knowledgeable guides, no unpleasant surprises and finely tuned itineraries.

Try to try to avoid too 'busy' an itinerary. We always urge
prospective visitors to spend more time in fewer locations. Slowing down a
safari has many benefits, not the least of which is that it reduces the 'per
diem' cost due to relatively fewer charter flights. Spending several days in
any one area enables you to enjoy all the activities in the area, to re-visit
favorite spots, and to take the time to look for specific animals and to enjoy
their behavior and interaction, as opposed to just finding them. The animals
move around in real time, and it never hurts to have an extra day here or
there. You will also become better acquainted with your guides and camp
managers, and give them a chance to exhibit their particular strengths, for
your benefit. Spending less time traveling between locations is the real luxury
and will allow you an opportunity to connect with an area and discover the true
meaning of 'safari'  Swahili for journey.

Above all, take the best pair of binoculars you can afford, and
have fun!

About the author: Bert Duplessis is a native of
South Africa, since 1990 a resident of Houston, Texas. Bert is an avid birder
with an Africa life-list of over 700 species. Bert and his partner Kathleen are
the co-owners of Fish Eagle Safaris, marketing nature tours (both overland and
fly-in safaris) to Botswana, Kenya, Madagascar, Malawi, Namibia, South Africa,
Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Since 1990, Bert has been an agent for
Wilderness Safaris, southern Africa's foremost nature tour travel group. He and
Kathleen travel to Africa regularly on inspection visits.

To order a brochure, newsletter or 'Frequently Asked Questions'
about selecting an African safari destination, send an e-mail message to
info@fisheaglesafaris.com with
your name, address and telephone number, or call 1-800-513-5222 (713-467-5222
if you're calling from outside North America)

We can also be reached by fax at 713-467-3208. To send us a
request for further information, simply complete the response form.