EN Summary: Following my previous post where I tried to explain the process of constructing the outer shell and the under collar, today I am addressing the inner shell (facings, lining and upper-collar), plus the bagging of the lining while finishing the notched collar. Keep reading the full article.

EN: The lining pattern is similar to the blazer pattern, yet it holds a few particularities. The lining front corresponds to the front removing the facing width and this piece is made available separately with this pattern (sometimes you'll have to draft your own), yet I've changed it slightly because I wanted to bag the lining the industrial way (Paco published an excellent tutorial here). So here's what I did differently:

1 - I added a fold to the back lining, starting at 1" above the waistline and ending right below the neckline (some patterns come with the back lining piece but this one doesn't; it assumes it's the same as the jacket back);

2 - All lining hem allowances were trimmed to half the width of the jacket's hem allowances; on the front lining piece I slanted the hem allowance to meet the hem allowance of the front facing, thus making it longer towards the edge that meets the facing.

EN: Because this jacket doesn't come with a back facing (the back lining joins up with the upper-collar), the facings, upper collar and lining are sewn together as a single shell (if there was a back facing I would have preferred to join facings to the jacket first, and then the lining to the facings and jacket). The inner shell, as I chose to call it, is fully sewn separately and the notch collar is sewn exactly as the outer shell collar (shown here):

Before bagging the lining, make sure to press all outer shell hem allowances up to crease them.

EN: Then the inner shell is sewn to the outer shell bagging the lining (remember to leave a section of the lining unstitched, so you can turn the jacket to the right side back and forward, because you're going to need it a couple of times). Because this stage of construction always leaves many doubts (mainly on how to sew the sleeve lining to the jacket by machine) I made a sketch (excuse its poor quality):

EN: In this case (a notched collar) the bagging is done in three stages; first stitch the under-collar do the upper-collar ending exactly at the notch (taking care to leave the seam allowances out of the way):

EN: Then the jacket inner shell is sewn to the outer shell from the notch of the collar down to the jacket front edge, around the hem and back along the front edge, stopping at the other collar notch (again, move the seam allowances to the back so you don't stitch over then).
The third stage is sewing the lining sleeves to the jacket sleeves like I show in my sketch (be mindful not to twist the sleeves; the sleeve seams should meet up with the lining sleeves). After grading the seams, clipping an notching where necessary, turn the jacket to the right side and hand-baste the edges; above the collar break the facings and upper-collar are favored; below down the front edge and hem curve, the outer shell is favored:
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PT: A seguir a parte interior é cosida à parte exterior desde a junção da gola com a lapela, descendo pela lapela e frente, dando a volta na bainha, orla da frente, outra lapela, terminando na outra junção da gola (mais uma vez não apanhando as margens no fim da costura!).
A terceira faze é coser as mangas como mostro no esboço; atenção para que as costuras coincidam e para que as mangas não fiquem torcidas.
Depois de graduar as costura e fazer os piques onde seja necessário (cantos e costuras redondas), o blazer é virado para o direito pela primeira vez e todos os bordos devem ser alinhavados. Nas lapelas e gola favorece-se a gola superior e as vistas, abaixo da lapela e pelo redondo da bainha, favorece-se a parte exterior do blazer.

EN: Next the jacket must be turned to the wrong side again to stitch all hems and tack the lining to the jacket at the bottom of the armholes and shoulders. Finally it can be turned to the right side and the section left open for turning can be stitched closed.

EN: Hope you guys have found this useful; this is not by all means the only way to line a jacket and deal with the notched collar; it's just a time efficient way (based on industrial procedures) and the way I have chosen for this particular project, based on my fabric characteristics, interfacing choices, pattern design and overall mood!

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EN Summary:Today I have for you the Portuguese/ English translation of an excellent article written by the professional Couturier/Tailor Paco Peralta of Barcelona. Paco was so kind to review the professional techniques that he uses to construct the underlying structure of tailored garments and some of the main construction steps implied, focusing mainly on the construction of a tailored notched collar. As we all know, these are some of the most challenging aspects of tailoring. I congratulate him for his exceptional and thorough work and his invaluable contribution for all of us hobbyist dressmakers.---PT Sumário: Hoje tenho para vos apresentar a tradução para Português e Inglês de um excelente artigo da autoria do Costureiro/Alfaiate profissional Paco Peralta de Barcelona. O Paco fez um levantamento exaustivo das técnicas de confecção da estrutura interior que costuma aplicar nas jaquetas e casacos, com enfoque na gola e lapelas, que são um dos aspectos mais desafiantes da confecção …

EN Summary: After cleaning up the lining on the sleeves and sleeve vent, I couldn’t help myself and finished the cuffs. I recorded a short movie on Instagram which will give you an idea of how it looks :). Then I proceeded with setting in the sleeves by hand. Keep reading to find out about my progress so far!
--- PT Sumário: Depois de fazer o acabamento do forro nas mangas e na abertura dos punhos, não resisti a terminar o acabamento dos punhos. Gravei um vídeo no instagram que vos dará uma ideia de como fica. Depois passei à parte de coser as mangas à jaqueta à mão. Continuem a ler para verem o meu progresso até ao momento!