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TEF351EWC Tappan Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for TEF351EWC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

I watched the video on your site before I purchased the replacement part, sure that it seemed simple enough to replace. Overall it was smooth and easy, the only difficult part was loosening the screws to remove the old element. On another site someone said to use clothes pins to keep the wires from slipping back inside while you did the replacement, that was a great idea. Thanks for hosting videos showing the repair before a purchase is made, so the purchaser can be sure they can handle the repair themselves!

To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.

My oven element burnt out.

I ordered the part online using the model number. It came within 5 days. I had watched a video online to see how to do this repair. It was easy. I unplugged the range. I opened the oven door. Use the nut driver to remove the screws in the back of the oven that held the element in place. Once the screws were removed I gently pulled the element forward exposing the wires. I wiggled each fastener from the element. I just clipped on the new element ends to each fastener and screwed it back into the holes in back. Plugged it in and am pre-baking ribs...before I put them on the grill to finish. Yum!

oven does not heat

Disconnected the heating element from oven box (nutdriver), pulling element outward toward the oven door to expose the element's push-on electrical terminals for voltage measurement. Used paper to insulate terminals from oven box while setting oven to "bake." Determined that electrical power (230 VAC) was present; then switched off oven and double checked the element itself was open circuit by measuring continuity with one terminal disconnected. (Violated all kinds of safety rules!) Temporarily reinstalled the bad element to maintain safe condition while waiting for replacement element. Be careful with delicate push-on terminals to avoid connectors coming off wires.

Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are removed from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.

Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Replaced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.

PULLED THE STOVE AWAY FROM THE WALL, DISCONNECTED THE POWER CABLE, REMOVED THE TOP PART OF THE BACK WHERE THE SWITCH WAS. IN FRONT THERE ARE TWO SCREWS THAT ARE PHILIP HEADS THAT HOLD THE THE SWITCH IN PLACE. BE CAREFUL WHEN REPLACING THE WIRES. WHEN YOU TAKE ONE WIRE OFF, PLACE IT ON THE NEW SWITCH IN THE THE SAME POSITION. THE SWITCH CAN BE PUT BACK, BUT BE CAREFUL OF THE ANGLE, BECAUSE IT HAS FOUR SCREW HOLES. REPLACE THE SWITCH, REPLACE THE BACK, PLUG THE POWER CABLE IN, AND PUSH THE STOVE BACK TO IT'S ORIGINAL POSITION. MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T ANYTHING ON THE BURNER WHEN YOU TEST THE SWITCH.

8" burner would get red hot (High) with knob set on 4 or 5, them cool back down to the correct setting. In a few minutes it would be red hot again.

Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinite Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.

Baking Element in oven stopped working.

My husband and I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it. We felt it was safer to unplug the stove rather than turn off the breaker. My husband disconnected the baking element and checked the lead wires coming into the oven to see if they were damaged but they were not. He fitted the new baking element to the lead wires and tightened the screws on each side. It was really easy to repair and the video we watched on the internet really helped. As a Mom who bakes a lot, and I wanted to make sure that the oven temp was correct so I tested the temp three different times with my oven thermometer. Each time the oven temp was accurate. Parts Select Service Department was most helpful and I received the part within two days. I highly recommend them and I would use them again.

First observed how the element attached to the oven. Then unplugged the range. Unscrewed it at both ends using my nutdriver. At the connection clips, simply pulled the element end away from the electrical wire it attaches to. Used a pair of pliers to pry loose the clips. Once separated, slightly bent the wire so it would not slip back into the hole that goes into the back of the range. Did this on both sides. Reversed the process to attach the replacement. That process is insert the wires into the connection clips, push the wires back into the range, reattach the element to the oven wall with the original screws, plug in the range. I commend PARTSSELECT for rapid delivery.

I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on the new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. very easy!

Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to call a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.