Yesterday I took delivery of My Kona CarbOne. I believe this is the first retail purchase in the U.S. The wind forecast in north Texas is not good for the next few days but I may go out in light wind tomorrow. I'll follow up after that and after a session in planning conditions.

My background: I have owned two Kona One's, a Kona Surf, currently own two classic Mistral longboards, a variety of short boards and a free formula. I've been windsurfing for ten years. I weigh 165 lbs.

The bare board weighs 29.4 lbs. that is what my friend's Kona 11'5" weighed when he bought it a few years ago. I used the same scale to weigh them but calibration of an inexpensive digital shipping scale is sketchy. Carbon dagger board weighs 2.75 lbs. The board is heavier than factory specs but so were my Kona One's and the difference between the two is as much as they said it would be. Every board I've owned has been heavier than the spec except for my Bics which are always dead on.

The board is absolutely beautiful!!

The dagger board gasket material is thinner than the Kona One making for easier deployment and retraction especially after I siliconed it a little.

The sliding mast track seems good but I'll let you know after I use it. I did spray silicone on it and it helped to make it smoother.

In the past I have slotted my dagger board plates and milled flats on the pivot pins for five different Kona Ones in order to make the dagger board removable. The first thing I noticed on the CarbOne is that the plates were slotted.. Great! But the pivot pin on the dagger had no flats and wouldn't go all the way down without disassembling anyway. I don't get it? Well within 24 hours I had the flats milled in the pin so that's taken care of.

It has a power box and my fin of choice is a 48cm MFC Liquid Pro. I'll let you Know how that works.

I noticed at the windsurf shop today that the new K1's also have the factory slotted plates. If that's what you have, here's the info:

The pivot pin diameter is .790" and the slot width from the top of the plate down to the bottle neck portion is .830". At the "bottle neck", which is just above the hole where the pin seats when sailing, the width of the slot narrows to .675" then it opens up into the hole. The pivot pin can be pressed or gently knocked out of the dagger board. Sometimes this is easy and sometimes it takes a little more force. I stand the pin up vertically, clamped in a vise with a vee block to stabilize it and keep it vertical. From there I make one pass with an end mill .145" deep from the top and .070 in from the diameter. While it is still clamped there I make an identical cut on the other side parallel to the first one. The resulting tab is .650 wide. Next I turn the pin over and mirror the other end. Of course all flats are parallel.

I install the pin so that the dagger will slide down the slot when it is at a 45 degree angle (about halfway deployed). This angle is not critical as the pin will end up rotating out of its original position. The rotation does not bother the operation. I have never had a dagger board with this mod try to unseat while in use.

With my older K1's I would slot the plates with a .625" cutter from the center of the hole out to the top. Then I would follow the above procedure on the pin except the resulting tab would be .600" in width.

I forgot one detail in my original post that could be crucial to some Kona sailors. The foot straps can only be mounted outboard. There are no inserts to mount them inboard. No problem for me because thats where I like them but imagine the disappointment if I were an inboard strap guy.

1. The slot on the daggerplate have the soultion that lots off people most Kona One racers like to have the dagger fixed but it seams there are not hard to chage from unremoveble to removable check the pictures.

3. We have make the board durable and we work on speceal fin, we will soon release G10 fin from 40, 42, 44, 44, 46, 48 and 50 cm who are build arround the standard 46 cm fin (new profile and much stiffer) but will keep the good jibes.

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