I recently acquired a Petzval lens (the exact reason why I got the 4x5 graphic in the first place) and go a chance to exercise the focal plane shutter.

Can't really tell if the speeds are accurate, but the problem I wanted to consult you about is the body release.

(i) it does not trip the FP shutter unless I depress it hard...which as you can imagine is a problem (camera shake/movement I guess)
(ii) If I screw in the cable release into the body release, the shutter does not trip at all.

Is this an easy fix? If so, I would like to attempt it myself and save precious $$.

On a different note, I intend to build a simple shutter tester and would like to know if adjusting tensions that control the FP shutter is relatively easy in case the speeds are way off?

Follow the service procedures for servicing the FPS. A FPS only runs slow due to dried lubrication or a problem with the governor. Increasing spring tension to compensate is not a good move. The spring is robust but it has its limits.
Example: http://graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6118_________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Wow! I've been wondering what that spring looked like... And yes, I can see how Lommen's advice (tightening the spring until it pulls hard enough at the end of the run) may be dangerous. Still, I think his illustrations and descriptions seem like a good supplement to the service manual - one of my usual problems with such manuals is with visualization: I read the manual, and I look at the piece of equipment, and I can't connect the dots properly. I like to find as many (preferably illustrated) descriptions of the work as possible on the net, and little by little I find that I've built a good mental image of the thing.

I have found some useful information on Jo's site, just wanted all to be aware. Occasionally one will come up with some better information or a procedure that will work better than the factory service procedures.

Now, from memory, the Body Release is embedded into the body and requires extensive tear down of the body to access the parts.

A simple trick is to apply one to two drops of light machine oil to the body release at the inside mating surfaces and operate it several times.

3in1 oil and WD40 work short term, dry out, leave a sticky residue, and generally create problems. 3in1 is vegetable based, WD stands for water dispersant.

I'm betting the selector switch is the culprit and it is serviced as part of the FPS CLA._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I am going to try going through the manual this weekend and see if i can come up with something. If it requires extensive tearing apart, then I will consider a CLA from Fluot's. I am about to send an email to Carol Miller to ask for a quote.

Doubt Fluots will service FPS.
There are a few technicians around that do including me. Check your Private Message._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I tried using all 6 of my cable releases on the body release of my Speed. The trouble is the push pins on none of them extend far enough to trip the FP shutter. Since the minimum speed of the FP shutter is 1/30 sec. I'm just using my finger. Takes a lot of pressure, but it's worked OK so far.
I'm still looking for a cable release with a push pin that's long enough, but no luck yet.

Normal operation: with slide switch in Front position press in on switch to move to the rear position. With switch in the Rear position a light pressure similar to a leaf shutter trip lever when cocked should be all that is necessary to to move the switch to the trip position. The Front-Rear-Trip switch can be oiled by removing the FPS outer cover but the shutter main plate must be removed to fully service it which means shutter disassembly._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I've done a lot of FPS shutters. It's been a couple years since I have worked on these regularly, so please refer to 45PSS and his comments on this post.
The roller spring requires light lube oil. I treat mine with Tri-Flow, a little at a time so as not to over saturate. The actual releasing mecdhanism is super simple, but requires maintenance. It's just a simple win up thing. After cleaning all pertaining parts, I lube the release sprockets and catch positions with a light grease. There is a slow speed governor that needs to be throuroughly cleaned and runs dry with no lube as it is phenolic composite and plastic weights. The last thing I do is apply a light coating of light grease to the low/high speed selector switch and then lube the release button with a very light oil wiping away any excess. Things then tend to run exceptionally smooth. The hard part of the FPS service is getting the preload correct for the shutter roller spring. Ussually by the time I am done with the rest of the service the roller is ready to go back in the camera spinning nicely with the spring all freed up and doing wha tit is supposed to do. The problem is we are dealing with a very old spring and who knows how the camera was stored over the years. I tend to set my preloads on the light side tending towards longevity rather than a snappy shutter. I'd rather it were a bit slow. I've done some testing in the past and found that even a poor running FPS can be more accurate by far than most leaf front shutters at all speeds provided there is no lagging hessitation due to binding or improper re-assembly, or misallignment.
SA