Don't worry about the motor cover,you don't have to go into there. I'd bet it's your lid motors, are they white or black. If white, replace them with the newer black ones, they are more durable and much quieter.
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We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

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The views and opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect or represent the views and opinions held by my employer. All data and information provided is for informational purposes only.

We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing.

Mother Teresa

The views and opinions expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect or represent the views and opinions held by my employer. All data and information provided is for informational purposes only.

F1 fault is displayed and both drawers shut down. It's either a leak or the mains filter board thinks there is a leak. Check the link assy's that keep the wire and hose harness out of the way of the lids for damage. Make sure the lid actuator motors are pulling the lid down properly during operation. You should not be able to open the drawer when washing. If no standing water is found at the cabinet base or on top of the lower lid after running a cycle then it could be a shorted flood sensor on the mains filter board.

Hey guys... Mind if I butt-in on this one? First off, I am going to assume this is a DD603, not 306, because, theat number didn't exist.

So, first question, and an important one. Was the F1 on both drawers simultaneously, with a beeping and flashing of the backlight on both displays?

If so, that is a flood error.

If NOT, that is an internal electrical fault, usually of the opposite drawer as the one that was running while the F1 appeared.

Most common problem for the early DD603 units is the plastic link arms that support and tuck the hose/harness assembly break, fail, causing the lid not to come down fully and water to leak at the rear of the drawers. ALWAYS change these when you see them, regardless of good or bad. This is per a 2005ish Fisher Paykel bulletin. Part 528437

A few tips while diagnosing these units:

1. You need the product code to order parts or look up bulletins. On the DD units, it is the first 5 digits of the Serial Number. On other FP Appliances it is a separate number on the tag.

2. Always drill down the behavior up to the failure, "which drawer was running when it failed"

3. Always check for corrosion at the "Mains Filter Board", bottom of the cabinet in the rear. This supplies 120 VAC to the system, communicates with the door modules, powers lid motors when needed.

Tone... give me a ring on my office line, 802-464-3458, tonight if you like. I can give you a 10-15 minute synopsis on how these dishwashers work. FYI, the same unit is sold under the KitchenAid brand, and possibily a few others. Have pen and paper at hand.

I am working on a presentation for a technical seminar I have later this week. Burning the midnight oil...

FYI, the same unit is sold under the KitchenAid brand, and possibily a few others.

Only the 1st-generation KA units were sourced from F&P. 2nd-generation KA drawer units were not F&P, they were a different design Whirlpool obtained from Maytag with the purchase of said company in 1996, and were built by Fulgor for WP.

KA discontinued selling drawer units on the U.S. market a couple/few years ago. They may still offer F&P sourced units on the European market.

Kenmore Elite and Maytag and JennAir drawer units offered drawer units for a while, they were always the Whirlpool/Fulgor-sourced design.