Power windows not working, I am just now buying vehicle and the seller is telling me it's probably the motor. But, I see it as highly unlikely that both motors would go out at the same time and with the cost of the motors being $200 each, I don't want to replace them if it's not needed. The seller mentioned at first that it might be the electrical connection points, but he says that he checked that , and that was not it. Do you have any idea as to what this might be?

having issues with the power windows of a car I'm thinking of purchasing. Seller says it is the motors because he says he checked the electronic points and those are fine. But, I find it hard to believe that both of the motors went out at the same time. Is it possible that it could be a fuse that controls both motors, rather than both motors?having issues with the power windows of a car I'm thinking of purchasing. Seller says it is the motors because he says he checked the electronic points and those are fine. But, I find it hard to believe that both of the motors went out at the same time. Is it possible that it could be a fuse that controls both motors, rather than both motors?

OK, it is unlikely that both motors would go out at the same time and you check the electrical connections with a test light to see if flipping the switch one way or the other gives you a light or power on the circuit. If it does and the motor doesn't turn, then you have to replace the motor or motors.

You can also use a self powered test light or a multimeter with a continuity beeper to test if the coils in the motor are ok. Disconnect the motors from the harness and then probe the connectors to test the wiring within the motor.

that's what I figured but I figured a second opinion never hurts. Plus, like I said, I just can't bring myself to believe that both motors went out at the same time. Is it possible that it might be a fuse?that's what I figured but I figured a second opinion never hurts. Plus, like I said, I just can't bring myself to believe that both motors went out at the same time. Is it possible that it might be a fuse?

I never worked on a Porsche 944 from 1984, but have seen them around town a lot since the 1980s.

So, I do not know where the fuse box is on it.

On GM cars, the fuse can be underneath the dash or under the hood.

The fuse is probably the first thing that was checked, but I wouldn't leave any stone unturned, so to speak.

If the fuse were bad, you wouldn't get current at the test light at the motor.

It does seem unlikely that both motors went out simultaneously, I agree, but on the other hand, anything is possible with a car that is 26 years old. So, it should be checked out.Yes, anything in the circuit, including a fuse, could be the culprit.
I never worked on a Porsche 944 from 1984, but have seen them around town a lot since the 1980s.
So, I do not know where the fuse box is on it.

On GM cars, the fuse can be underneath the dash or under the hood.

The fuse is probably the first thing that was checked, but I wouldn't leave any stone unturned, so to speak.

If the fuse were bad, you wouldn't get current at the test light at the motor.

It does seem unlikely that both motors went out simultaneously, I agree, but on the other hand, anything is possible with a car that is 26 years old. So, it should be checked out.

May I ask how much you paid for the vehicle? I think that the last time I saw one for sale in Pennsylvania where I live, I saw a couple for $5000 a piece. They're nice cars.

Again, good luck on your fixing the power window problem in your Porsche.May I ask how much you paid for the vehicle? I think that the last time I saw one for sale in Pennsylvania where I live, I saw a couple for $5000 a piece. They're nice cars.

Again, good luck on your fixing the power window problem in your Porsche.

The first step on trouble-shooting power window is to check for free play. Check for forward and backward and side to side movement (free play) on the regulator. Lube the two most import spots on the movement of the power window with grease. (CIRCLED IN RED) The second weaken spot on 944 window are the gears inside the motor. Before you spend money to purchase a new driver and passenger side motors you should hear for noise//sound when you press on the power window buttons. You should remove the motor and lube the internal gearbox with white lithium grease. I use CRC motor cleaner to clean test the motor brushes. Carb.cleaner is also good for a this type of clean up. There are complete unit at eBay for under $50 per side. You should clean and test your gearbox first.

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Never buy a car from Ebay. When they tell you the clutch is a little high, that means it is worn thin and needs to be replaced. Mileage concerns and how well the entire car was maintained have a great affect on the condition and value of the car. You will never know how or if the car has been maintained properly. Remember ...It's buyer beware.

If the door lock switch works on the passenger side, then the drivers side door lock switch is probably faulty. Use a multi-meter to test the Drivers Side Door Lock Switch (Black and Pink/Light Green wires unlock the vehicle, and the Black and Pink/Yellow wires lock the vehicle)If the switch is tested and found to be operating properly, you may have a faulty Body Security Module or Drivers Side Door Lock Actuator.

If neither of your Power Mirrors are working, you probably have a faulty Exterior Rear View Mirror Switch, Power Mirror Module, or blown Central Junction Box Fuse.

If none of your Power Windows are working, you probably have a faulty Accessory Delay Relay or a blown fuse in your Central Junction Box or a faulty Master Window Adjust Switch (all of the Power Window Switches feed through this Master Window Switch). If the Power Windows didn't stop working at the same time, you may have faulty Window Adjust Switches, or faulty Power Window Motors, this is very unlikely though. It would also be a good idea to inspect the wiring for any obvious damage.

If it is only 1 window,it is unlikely a fuse as it would control all windows and probably 1 or 2 more systems.The fuse box under the hood should not be an issue either since it is a very high power controller and is called a power distribution box.If the window has an option to be operated by more than one switch and does not work with either the motor is probably bad.If it is the driver window and has only a switch to control that particular window I can tell you a fairly simple way to determine what is wrong.If it is a different window which can be operated by 2 separate switches,I would say the window motor.If you would like more help or I did not get the scenario correct,please write back and I will get an auto link to your post and we'll figure it out.Good luck! Greg

The fuse for that probably controls a couple other things than just the back wiper because it is not a real high power item.If you can get at the wiper motor,you may want to check the wiring and trace the wiring as far as you can.If you have an electrical measuring instrument,you could find out if the motor is shorted somehow,but that could also be in the wiring leading up to it.If you turn on the wiper and just start pulling fuses,probably 15 or 20 amp,you should be able to find it.Also,some local libraries have haynes repair manuals sometimes which could tell you,or maybe buy one at a national auto repair store.They are usually about $20.Maybe a dealer will give you a free or low cost diagram too.

That's unusual for a window motor to go bad, however the plastic track breaks causing the window to become inoperative. If you hear the window motor working, then the plastic geared strip is probably broken. It would be cost effective to you to first find out whether the plastic track is broken for now Chrysler sells a "generic" window track where you cut the plastic track to fit Your Vehicle. Should this be the case, then remove the door panel (a Haynes Manual would come in handy), and take out one pin in the plastic track, while supporting the Window! (smile) and remove the old track and re-install the new track.

A little secret here...buy some Mopar Speedometer Grease while buying the Window Track and grease the metal rail that the plastic track rides on. The Speedometer grease is NOT temperature sensitive, so it works well in Summer & Winter Temperatures.

Should it truly be your Window Motor, Chrysler sells a re-build kit for the Window Motor which has the gears and grease needed to replace the worn out ones in the head of the Window Motor rather than paying for a "Brand New" window motor. All of this (the plastic window track AND the Window Motor Kit), will be under $100.

First remove the inside door panel. It's attached by snaps around the
perimeter. Pry between the panel and the door with a screwdriver,
moving the screwdriver to a place where the panel is most solidly
attached, and pry hard there so the snap releases. Then work around the
panel to unsnap all the others. There may not be snaps at the top, but
instead you lift the panel after unsnapping the bottom and sides. You
probably also have to remove anything that's attached to the panel or
that goes through it, usually attached with screws, maybe with pry-off
cover plates. But do the snaps first and you'll be able to tell where
else the panel's attached.
Then remove the lower part of the plastic waterproofing sheet, by
pulling it away from the mastic around the perimeter. Pull up just
enough to get at the motor mounting bolts.
Then undo those bolts with a wrench, and remove the complete motor
and regulator assembly. The end of the long arm of the regulator will
have a knob, which fits into a slot on the track at the bottom of the
window. You'll have to slide it along the track till the slot gets wider
to allow the knob to pull out.
You'll probably have to separate the motor/gear assembly from the
regulator assembly. Buy a new or reconditioned motor/gear assembly from a
parts store or junkyard or online. They'll probably want your old one
in exchange (except the junkyard).

possible but highly unlikely.switches tend to just go.Motors tend to come and go.If you pull the panel off hit the motor with something and attempt to run it up or down see if this helps solve it. but ii bieleve t to be motor

The same circuit breaker feeds the driver door as well as the passengers doors . The wires inside the rubber boot from the body to the door are probably broke ,power or ground wire .Or the door module is bad . Are your familiar with electronic control modules ? The door functions ,windows , lock's , memory etc... are controlled by DDM - driver door module .
Door Control System Operation
This vehicle has five modules capable of performing door system control functions. Vehicle door system components (windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) are controlled directly by these modules. There is a door module located inside of each vehicle door:
• Driver Door Module
• Passenger Door Module
• LH Rear Door Module (LRDM)
• RH Rear Door Module (RRDM)
• LH Front Power Window Switch
Simple Bus Interface (SBI)
Each Door Module communicates with the other Door Modules on the SBI. The driver door module is the only Door Module that is capable of communicating over the Class 2 Data Line as well as the SBI.
Driver Door Module
The driver door module directly controls the LH Front door lock actuator, power window motor and the outside rear view mirror. The driver door module sends and receives messages received from the LH Front Power Window Switch to the passenger door module, LRDM and RRDM modules over the Simple Bus Interface (SBI) line. Also, the driver door module sends and receives message from other vehicle system modules via the Class 2 Data Line.
Pulling the door panel off an checking B+ voltage and ground for the module would be good for you to do , since you probably don't have a $6,000 factory Tech 2 scan tool to see if the DDM is communicating .
The driver door module has two main power feeds (high and low current), and two main grounds. The low power feed (battery 1) is used to provide power for the driver door module's logic and internal driver operation. The high power feed (battery 2) is used to provide power for systems that draw higher amounts of current (motors, lights, etc.). Operating current at the driver door module's battery should not exceed 3.0 amperes at battery 1, and 7.5 amperes (for 2 seconds) at battery 2 while the driver door module is awake, and 2.5 milliamps when the driver door module is asleep. For most driver door module functions, the driver door module will operate properly with a system voltage of 9.0-16.0 volts. If system voltages exceed 16.0 volts the driver door module will provide protection by disabling certain functions that may damage due to higher than normal system voltages.

What kind of manual do you have ? The info above is from a factory repair manual .
The fuse's ,circuit breaker for the door module are located in the rear fuse box , not under hood . PWR WDO circuit breaker 30 amp. , DRVMDL fuse 10 amp. The rear fuse box is located under the back seat . Watch this video ,different type vehicle but probably the same problem .Dodge Grand Caravan No Power Window No Power Locks CAN Trouble