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640W Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 640W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter was not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.

Leaky water inlet valve

Easy. Removed screws at top holding dishwasher to counter. Turned off water to dishwasher. Unhooked water supply line. Electrical and waste lines were long enough to leave connected and pull dishwasher out, set on side. Pull off electrical connector. Use pliars to compress spring holding water line to dishwasher, remove that line from valve. Use nut driver to remove old one, and replace with new one. Teflon tape on water connection to sink. Do everything in reverse.done.

honeycomb filter in vent fell out..

The honeycomb filter in the vent was missing so I bought the entire vent cap.. Thought it attach with 2 screws from inside the oven.. BUT -- when you loosen the screws, it wouldn't drop.. Looked at the new part and saw that it attaches to the vent outside the oven as well.. So to replace this puppy, you have to pull the cabinet apart..

First I Pulled the oven away from the wall and turned off the gas and unplugged the oven. I then removed the bottom drawer and the oven door to get easy access to the ignitor location. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 shields which cover the ignitor with a screw driver. I then removed & unplugged the ignitor and 2 screws holding the ignitor in place. This all took about 15 minutes. I then reversed the process and installed and assembled the oven. It only took about 25 min in total time and low and behold the oven worked again. Amazing the technology stuff. My wife things I am a genius...again. Not!!!

Removed bottom pan from oven, removed gas flame deflector to expose ignitor and burner. Saw that ignitor was not working. Removed two mounting screws, pulled ignitor and wire until wire nuts were exposed and disconnected ignitor. Replaced with new ignitor, bracket and wire nuts. Remounted the new ignitor, and tested burner. Worked ok. Reinstalled deflector and pan, back in business.

Had to remove the bottom oven shelf and the broiler drawer. Disconnected the wiring pigtail theought the broiler opening and pulled the gas pipe from the baking oven. Reomved the two screws connecting the ignitor from the pipe. Connected the new ignitor and threaded the wiring pigtail back down the the opening in the baking oven. Connected the wiring harness up inside the broiler and put the drawer back in. Re-installed the bottom shelf in the baking oven and tested. Worked perfectly. Back to cooking. :-)

Oven wouldn't heat

I read some of question & answer to the problem I was having with the oven. When I saw do-it-yourself that all I need to know. Repair man quote me for 100.00 dollar he will do it plus part. So I save 100.00 dollar and done it myself. Thank to partselect for fast and quick delivery service. It was only 2 screws holding the element and the connector was a just plug it into the other plug very easy to do. I will always come back partselect for answer and help and buy the part from them. YOU ROCK PARTSELECT

Oven Wouldn't Heat; Broiler Worked Fine

We removed with a screwdriver the two main screws that held the bottom of the oven in place and removed the bottom oven piece; then we removed the two nuts with a socket wrench that held the element in place. We then discovered that the element wire did not completely egress to the point of being able to disconnect from within the oven, so we removed the storage drawer below the oven and that provided access to disconnect the element wire and reconnect the new element wire and then reverse the steps to install the new element, which worked fine upon first use and continues to work fine.

Oven is gas. Burners on top OK, broiler in oven OK. Removed oven bottom plate and heat deflector. Carborundum igniter would not glow. Ordered new igniter from Partselect.com. With new igniter in hand I unplugged the oven from house power, removed the bottom drawer for access to the igniter connector, and disconnected it. Removed the bad igniter and replaced with new igniter...easy! Plugged in oven to house power and tested new igniter by turning on oven. GOOD!! Reassemmbled oven interior. Wife again happy.