We used to have the rubber/plastic barrel covers at the field I work/play at - the problem with them is the mold seam is right down the middle and every single one of them failed at that seam over a relatively short time period.

Do you have a link for the RTR ones?

I found 4" wide polypro webbing material and I am trying to find flat bungie cord material and the standard push button lock adjuster piece to work on hand sewing one of my own, or maybe talking to a local lady that does oddball sewing work including sewing canvas covers.

I've been dragging my feet on this one. Been injured and working over time,but now I have a whole weekend to write a review.

First impression:

As with all APP products,it was built very well. Titus only carries quality items in his shop.

The barrel cap is blow molded and very sturdy. They are tough little item to have in your gear bag. As you can see from the picture above the items come in an assortment of three colors. They come with the standard shock cord landyard that adjust for tightness.

What I like most about the Shock cord, is the way it was set up. The shock cord wraps around the cover in a groove at the end of the cover. What this does is allows you to always put the barrel cover on the same way. Also in doing this,it allows for the shock cord to be passed thru both holes in the barrel cap and then run thru the cord lock and into a lock at the end of the string.

I like the end cord locking system. This was really thought out. I can't say they are not on other barrel socks but I haven't seen them.
In doing this,it makes the barrel cap a little safer to use.

My biggest fear has always been that a marker is accidentaly shot and one piece of the shock cord that is sewn in the bag comes loose. A surprised player will normally shoot one if not several rounds before they realize what is happening. With todays E-markers, triggers are so sensative,that squeezing of several rounds at one time is nothing.

There is a nice little hook on the end of the cover. I am assuming it is to hang it after washing or end of days play. I also see attaching this to a clip on gear. Say maybe a GRIM LOCK.

Another specific item I noticed on the top and bottom of this cover were the ribbed sections. These ribs came in handy. I had gotten hit and wiped off the mark with my left hand. Reached in my pocket to grabb the barrel cap. When I slid it onto the barrel,I noticed even with paint on my gloves,the Ribs did not allow my hands to slip down or off the barrel cap. It gave me a very firm grip. Amazing what you notice that you didn't notice before :rotfl: These ribs will also help to hold the barrel cover in the event of accidental gun discharge while putting on the barrel cap.

The paintball test:

So how does it hold up to say 50 rnds being shot into it at about 290 FPS.

Warning always wear some kind of eye protection when shooting any type of fire arm,or air rifle.

Everytime I test an item,I do as if I were a new player. I know I should have been wear a mask,but I had on glasses. This is a common rookie mistake that I wanted to show how important goggles are.

This is what happens when shells start to fly out of the barrel cap:

So let's clean it up:

Took it over to the sink to clean up the damage. To my surprise,paint was hardly in the barrel and none in the breech. The breech was clean as a whistle.

After washing out the paint from the barrel cap,this is what I found on the inside. What didn't shoot out the back of the barrel cap stayed inside.

How did it work during a game:

Well I'm not an AGG player,so I put my barrel cap in my pocket. I paid money for it,I don't want to loose it. I can say this. My memory isn't as sharp as it was 23 yrs ago,when it comes to remembering which pocket I put my barrel cap in. With the APP barrel cap,since it is plastic,it's just a quick "pocket patdown" and I know where it is. Since it is a blow molded plastic,it doesn't collapse,meaning I can feel the item in my pocket from the outside,even with gloves on. I couldn't do this with just a normal barrel sock.

So contact Titus here on MCB and he can help you out right away. Great person to deal with.

My over all thoughts. Let's face it, it's an APP product. They are well know for making quality almost indestructable plastic parts. They'll last you for yrs. Corners aren't cut and they are one of the few Paintball companies left were "QUALITY and CUSTOMER " really matters. When you buy an APP product,you know it will last for yrs and is strong and durable.

Next to Googles, this is probably the most important item in paintball. Yep you got it, they both protect your eye from getting shot out.
I've always wanted to make one of these. We will be using ACU 1000D Cordura. I figured since I have 3 yards of the stuff laying around, might as well use it.

3/16 Shock cord and ACU

cord lock

1-1/2 or 2" webbing

sewing machine

Layout the pattern. It's not hard to make. This is why I'll be using a "one piece" Design. This picture you see is the pattern for what will be made here. Any other drawings you see in this "HOW TO" are useless. I changed up the design after I had taken the picture. Also the word "SEAM" actually meams "HEM". So this picture is the actual pattern that is used.

The pattern:
I have never figured out why companies that produce soft goods have to use more then one piece on something that is so simple. I would imagine it makes them more money due to labor cost in third world countries. However I'm a simple person who has a simple design. Don't let all the measurments spook you. Just look at each one and it will all work out. As mention above,ignor all the other pattern pictures in this thread, this is the one you will use:

The fabric:NOTE:While making this,make sure the fabric is inside out. Always sew from the inside.

Nothing complicated about it. This is just a scrap piece of 1000D ACU I had laying around after another project. Never waste your project scraps, they can be used for something else.
Place the pattern on the fabric. Pin down and cut out.

Fold the fabric:
Next fold the fabric in half. This will help you find center.

Then fold the 1-1/2" webbing in half. This will also help you find center. Then lay in place on the fabric.

Pin down:
Pin down the webbing in place. It should be center and have 1-1/4" on each side of long end only. See pattern for more info.

Sew webbing:
Nothing hard about this. Just sew down the webbing. Like everything we sew,it is double sewn.

Hem:
On each end of the fabric,sew a 1/4" hem. Not only will this help the barrel go in better,but it cleans it up real nice and prevents future fraying or wearing of fabric.

Shock cord and cord lock:
I bought the shock cord and cord lock from DIY Tactical.

Cut 28" of shock cord:

Sew it together and sew in the shock cord:
Fold the barrel condom in half. Slide the shock cord thru the top of the two hems and out thru the side. See picture for more info.

Sew the two halfs together using a 1/4" seam (this is the only time we use the word seam. A hem is folded over. I know I wrote hem on the pattern instead of seam). We double sewed the sides. Make sure you get the shock cord real good.

At this point the project is done. For those who want to continue to make a nicer one, follow the rest of the instructions. For those who are done, turn your sock right side out and go play.

Boxed ends: (OPTIONAL)
This will give your barrel sock a better appearance. From the bottom of the sock measure up 1-1/4". From the top of the measurement, draw a line to the corner of the lower webbing. Sew along that line. Make sure to double or triple sew this line.
Then cut away any excess that is left. Not to close to what you just sewed. Do this on both sides.

Why do we only run the knotted shock cord through the corners of the barrel socks? That seems to be the point of failure for 90% of our rental gun barrel socks. I am thinking that using a flat cord would allow you to stitch the cord into the seams on both sides of the barrel cover for half if not the full length. I mean you are already stiching it, why not sew the cord in with it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackrain

You can make one out of ORANGE 1000D Cordura:

Barrel Sock version 1

Next to Googles, this is probably the most important item in paintball. Yep you got it, they both protect your eye from getting shot out.
I've always wanted to make one of these. We will be using ACU 1000D Cordura. I figured since I have 3 yards of the stuff laying around, might as well use it.

Layout the pattern. It's not hard to make. This is why I'll be using a "one piece" Design. This picture you see is the pattern for what will be made here. Any other drawings you see in this "HOW TO" are useless. I changed up the design after I had taken the picture. Also the word "SEAM" actually meams "HEM". So this picture is the actual pattern that is used.

The pattern:
I have never figured out why companies that produce soft goods have to use more then one piece on something that is so simple. I would imagine it makes them more money due to labor cost in third world countries. However I'm a simple person who has a simple design. Don't let all the measurments spook you. Just look at each one and it will all work out. As mention above,ignor all the other pattern pictures in this thread, this is the one you will use:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ctsling051.jpg

The fabric:NOTE:While making this,make sure the fabric is inside out. Always sew from the inside.

Sew the two halfs together using a 1/4" seam (this is the only time we use the word seam. A hem is folded over. I know I wrote hem on the pattern instead of seam). We double sewed the sides. Make sure you get the shock cord real good.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ctsling046.jpg

At this point the project is done. For those who want to continue to make a nicer one, follow the rest of the instructions. For those who are done, turn your sock right side out and go play.

Boxed ends: (OPTIONAL)
This will give your barrel sock a better appearance. From the bottom of the sock measure up 1-1/4". From the top of the measurement, draw a line to the corner of the lower webbing. Sew along that line. Make sure to double or triple sew this line.
Then cut away any excess that is left. Not to close to what you just sewed. Do this on both sides.