Points to consider about your new Endless Pool (much of this applies
to all pools):

When you turn the current off or on in the pool be sure the current speed
is turned to low (counter-clockwise) before pushing the on-off button. Turning
the current on with the speed set to high may cause the propeller blades to
break. If you are using a remote to turn the current on or off the Power Unit
(PU) will automatically slow the current down or speed it up to where it was
last set.

The water level in the pool should not get too low. Keep the level about ½"
below the top of the propulsion housing at the front of the pool. If it gets
too low the skimmer will start taking in air and that creates noise, poor filtration,
and in some cases an air-bound pump which is really bad. If the water is allowed
to get too high in the pool the relief valve in the top of the skimmer will
start to leak water and it will spill to the floor on the outside front which
may not be visible.

The water in a pool MUST be kept in good swimming condition. Chemically it
MUST test safe for bathing. Endless Pools supplies a test kit that allows you
to make sure the water in your pool is of good quality. The following information
will allow you determine what the water quality is and what to do to keep it
where it should be. The test kit has a plastic comparator and chemicals with
various colored tops. These are used to test the chemical quality of the pool
water. Look closely at the comparator. There is a large test tube on one side.
There is a small tube on the other side. The large tube has a 25 ml mark in
the middle of the side of it. The small tube has a 9 ml mark about 1 cm. down
from the top on the side. Those are the only levels we will be dealing with.
Between the two test tubes there are colors that are used to make sure your
pool water is chemically satisfactory. The colors up 1/2 way are the ones that
should be matched. KEEP NOTES ON EVERYTHING THAT IS DONE!!!

1. You must make sure the water is sanitary. Germs introduced by swimmers
must not be allowed to survive in a pool. Organic matter introduced by swimmers
must be decomposed and eliminated. Algae should not be allowed to thrive. Killing
evil agents is a key to good water for swimming. Every pool requires a sanitizing
agent. Whether it is chlorine, bromine, Bacquacil, ozone, Clorox, the CL Free
system, the introduction of a killing agent and maintaining its level is extremely
important for the water to look clear and clean.

The test kit has 3 yellow-topped tubes. You will use only the first 2, R-0001
and R-0002, to make sure the chlorine or bromine is at the level that is proper.
Rinse the small tube with the pool water. Now fill the small tube to the 9mm
mark (see above for where that is). Add 5 drops of the R-0001. (Officially,
droppers are designed to yield the proper size drop when the dropper is held
directly upside down - not sideways.) Add 5 drops of the R-0002. Mix the tube's
contents and look at the color that is produced. If it matches the middle pink
on the comparator scale your water has the proper level of sanitizing agent.
If the color is low, or there is no color, you must immediately add sanitizing
agent. If you do not do it the water may become milky and is not sanitary. If
the color is too pink you must cut back on the amount of chlorine or bromine
you have been adding to your pool.

Note: If you use the yellow canisters of Nature2 in your pool please read the
section below that follows the 2 pictures of Nature2.

2. The pool water should not be too acid or base. If the water becomes too
acid the metal in the pool (the "stainless" steel benches, the underwater hidden
hydraulic motor, etc.) may start to rust. The copper heater coil in the pool
heater will disintegrate. If the water gets too basic the water may become unsanitary
because the chlorine or bromine may not be affective. No matter what, it is
important to keep the water satisfactory for swimming and good for your pool
and skin. To make sure the pH (acid/base) is proper you need to put the sample
of pool water about ½ of the way up the small comparator tube. Add 1 or
2 drops of the red R-0004. Mix and observe the color. Yellow is very bad. The
water is too acid. Red indicates the pH is too high. Orange is ideal. If you
have a yellow color because the pH is too low, add 1 cup of the pH Rise (pH
Up, sodium hydroxide, etc.). If the color is red add ½ cup of the pH Down
(or 1/4 cup of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid. Slowly add the chemicals at the
front of the pool with the current running. Then rinse the cup in the current,
and let the current run for a minute or 2. Retest the pH to see if you have
made the result orange. If not, add more of the corrective chemical.

3. Alkalinity is a pool water factor that some people treat as not being important.
That is crap. Alkalinity keeps the pool water at a consistent pH. Without the
proper alkalinity (about 120 ppm) the pH may go crazy from one swim to the next.
Low alkalinity values cause the pool water to become corrosive. Even stainless
steel will rust. Alkalinity is increased by adding common and ordinary baking
soda to the pool water. Baking soda is known to the chemistry guys as Sodium
Bicarbonate. The container supplied by Endless Pools may be called "Alkalinity
Rise" or "Alkalinity Increaser". The chemical formula is NaHCO3. The Na is sodium,
the H is hydrogen (or "bi" in the chemical world). And the CO3 is carbonate.
You need baking soda in your pool. You are wasting a heap of money if you buy
the product from a pool store. Get it in quantity when yours runs low at a Sam's,
BJ's, or a Costco outlet.

Fill the large comparator to the 25 ml. mark. Using the green-topped test
chemicals, add 2 drops of R-0007, 5 drops of R-0008 and then mix the test
tube contents. Now we are going to titrate. That means we are going to add
another chemical drop-by-drop, and counting each drop, until a color change
becomes permanent. You will notice the color of the solution in the comparator
is green. We are going to titrate until it turns (and stays) red after mixing.
Add a drop of R-0009. Mix and look at the color. No change? Add another drop.
Do that until the color becomes red. Twelve drops is what you want. If it
takes less, than you need to add baking soda (alkalinity). Each drop equals
10 ppm. You need 120 ppm. As an example, if it took 6 drops to change the
water from green to red you would have 60 ppm of alkalinity in your pool.
You need no less than 120 so add 1 cup of baking soda (Alkalinity Increaser)
to the water in the current. Test again after the current has run for a minute
or 2 and see what you have achieved.

The fourth (and last) chemical needed in indoor pool water is the calcium
level. Simply, this is a measure of the water's hardness. Hard water is good
for pools (and is good for you to drink, unlike soften water which replaces
the healthy calcium and magnesium with sodium chloride). Low calcium levels
in pool water increases the corrosion potential. Your pool should have at least
180 ppm hardness.

Fill the large comparator to the 25 ml. mark. Using the blue-topped test chemicals,
add 20 drops of R-0010, 5 drops of R-0011 and then mix the test tube contents.
Now we are going to titrate. That means we are going to add another chemical
drop-by-drop, and counting each drop, until a color change becomes permanent.
You will notice the color of the solution in the comparator is red. (If it is
blue at this point you are testing softened water that has no calcium. Skip
the titration process.) We are going to titrate until it turns (and stays) blue
after mixing. Add a drop of R-0012. Mix and look at the color. No change? Add
another drop. Do that until the color becomes blue. Eighteen drops is what you
want. If it takes less, than you need to add Calcium Increaser. Each drop equals
10 ppm. You need at least 180 ppm. As an example, if it took 12 drops to change
the water from red to blue you would have 120 ppm of hardness in your pool.
You need no less than 180 so add 1 cup of calcium carbonate (Calcium Increaser)
to the water in the current. Test again and see what you have achieved. A hardness
over 180 ppm is OK.

The pH and bromine or chlorine should be tested frequently, possibly every
day in the beginning of your pool start-up. You will be able to adjust the testing
frequency after a few weeks and you come to know how your pool water behaves.
The alkalinity should be tested weekly after you have achieved the desired level.
The calcium changes very little over time but should be tested on a monthly
basis.

The above pictures are of the Zodiac Nature2 Mineral Pool Sanitizers. They
usually come 4 to a box with a plastic top and bottom holding them together.
In large pools, such as those found at schools, colleges, etc. 4 of the cartridges
are placed in the water filtration system (such as the inside of the filter).
In Endless Pools 1 or 2 are placed in the water quality such as inside the filter
or in the skimmer basket. In large pools 4 cartridges last about 4 months. In
Endless Pools 1 lasts 3 months, 2 last 6 months, and 4 last for about 1 year.

If you are using the Nature2 cartridge(s) you must use chlorine. They will
not work with bromine because silver bromine makes the pool water cloudy. The
ingredients inside each cartridge consist of small pellets containing silver
and copper. As the pool water passes through these cartridges it picks up silver
and copper ions and puts them in the pool water. Silver kills bacteria (that
is why silver/mercury fillings in your teeth were so effective.) and copper
kills algae. The combination of the two goes a long way in keeping your pool
water sanitary. However, the beads are not 100% effective. Therefore, it is
important to add chlorine (Clorox) to your pool water to keep the level at the
lightest pink (0.5 ppm) on the test scale. In the long run you will be saving
money and creating less chlorine odor using the Nature2 cartridges but they
must be changed according to the above schedule. The Nature2 sanitizers contain
3.51% metallic silver (from silver nitrate) and 8.23% copper sulfate pentahydrate
as the active ingredients.

Clearwater Blue offers copper additives and copper
test strips. Contact Deep-Six for more information and/or for a sample strip.
The following is the comparison charts for the Clearwater Blue test strips:

There is another chemical that is used where there is excessive sunlight such
as an outdoor pool. Sunlight causes a major chlorine loss. To reduce the affect,
Cyanuric Acid is added to outdoor pools until the level reaches 40 - 100 ppm.
(That may be tested for using the white vials in the Taylor Kit.) Excessive
amounts will cause the chlorine to become less effective in santizing the pool
water. the only way to reduce excessive Cyanuric Acid levels in pool water is
to change the water.

As time passes and chemicals (from swimming, evaporation with water additions,
and pool chemical additions) are added to the pool water it will become more
salty. The amount of salt in water is referred to as the "Total Dissolved
Solids". Test kits do not usually have chemicals to determine the TDS,
but pool stores might. The maximum level of TDS in a pool is 1500 ppm. Too much
salt may cause deposits on the pool walls, in the pool plumbing, and in the
heater and filter. Tap water might be 100-300 ppm. The threshold for fresh vs.
salt water is 1000 ppm although one cannot taste the salt at that low level.
Pools that are sanitized by a salt system are about 3000 ppm. The ocean averages
about 35,000 ppm TDS. A pool water change is necessary to lower the TDS.

The water quality system consists of several components that might vary slightly
from one pool installation to another, but the differences do not change the
required outcome. The water comes from the front of the pool via 1½" white
PVC pipe and enters the front of the pump. It will have passed through the skimmer
which will collect floating objects in the pool. A few particles will get through
the skimmer basket and may get caught in the basket at the front of the pool
pump. (Check both baskets periodically to clean them.)

The water is then forced out of the top of the pump to the bottom back of
the filter cartridge. Inside the cartridge the water is forced to pass through
the filter. This is a cleanable and replaceable item that captures very small
particles and removes them from the water. It will get dirty as time passes.
How much dirt it removes from the pool water depends on many factors: Indoor
pools stay cleaner. Pools in dusty conditions collect dirt more often. People
using the pool with dirty feet, bodies, kids, etc. will have to clean the filter
more frequently. A dirty filter may lead to cloudy water and poor filtration.
Poor filtration may lead to the loss of chlorine or bromine because of low water
flow. Poor filtration may cause a low pressure that will prevent the heater
from turning on.

Cleaning the filter (If you have a "Smart Pool" start reading after
number 15 below.):

1. You should know what the pressure gauge reads when a new filter is put
in the cartridge. It is usually about 10 psi. That is read on the gauge on the
top of the filter cartridge. Either make note of that pressure, or on the newer
pools there is a dial on the pressure gauge with 2 arrows. The lower of the
2 arrows should be placed on the pressure indicated when a new filter is inserted
in the cartridge. When the pressure rises to the second arrow (or 10 psi above
the starting pressure), and this may take 6 months or more with indoor pools,
it is time to clean the filter.

2. The filter must be removed from the filter cartridge. This requires some
upward tugging of the lid as explained in #6 below. It also requires that the
water is lowered in the filter cartridge so that when the lid is removed water
does not spill all over the place.

3. There should be a valve between the skimmer and the pump. Close it. There
should be a valve between the heater and the pipe returning to the pool. Close
it. The pool should now be isolated from the water quality components. Be sure
there is no possibility of the water quality pump turning on when these valves
are closed. Pipes can be broken and floods may occur.....

4. There is a brown plastic water valve in the pipe from the filter that
goes to the heater. When that faucet is opened (hold a container under it
to catch water) there should be very little water flow. That proves the pool
is isolated.

5. With a hose or container held under the opened faucet (that will prevent
1 gallon of water from going on the floor), open the air entry valve on the
top of the filter cartridge. It is to the right of the gauge. It opens by twisting
it counter-clockwise ¼ of a turn. Air will now enter the top of the filter
cartridge and water will freely flow out the faucet. After about a gallon is
removed, the filter cartridge top is ready to be removed.

6. About 1/3 of the way down from the top of the filter cartridge is a brown
ring. The ring has 4 protrusions sticking out 90 degrees from each other.
Two of the 4 are larger than the other 2. The larger ones have a lever on
the underside that should be pressed upward. When both are up twist the ring
counter-clockwise and it will loosen. After ¼ of a turn the ring can
be lifted off the top of the filter cartridge. (The lid of the filter will
not have moved.)

7. Now grab the handles of the filter cartridge lid and forcefully pull the
lid upward. It will release from the top of the cartridge exposing the filter
and remaining water.

8. The filter is pushed down over a black plastic filter holder. The filter
holder has a round top and a bottom that covers the entire bottom of the filter.
If you want to remove the filter from the black holder push down on the round
black top while holding the filter. The filter comes off the black plastic by
pulling it upward and away from the flat part of the black plastic holder.

9. If the filter is really disgusting it should be discarded. Otherwise, the
filter should be cleaned with a garden hose with a jet nozzle. Start at a known
point. Aim the hose at the top of the filter. Move the hose back and forth about
3" and then down to the bottom of the filter. Rotate the filter and continue
to clean from top to bottom until you have returned to the starting point.

10. Look at the filter. It has the word, "BOTTOM" on the side that goes down
on to the black holder. If it says "TOP" that goes up. It should be
firmly seated.

11. The filter and holder should now be put back into the filter cartridge.
Put it down into the middle of the cartridge. Rotate it slightly from left
to right and it will drop into place. Put the top to the filter cartridge
on. Press it down and then put the brown ring on. It should rotate about
¼ of a turn clockwise before it clicks into the locked position. Make
sure you hear that click.

12. Close the air entry valve on the top of the filter cartridge by rotating
it clockwise and push down.

13. Open the 2 valves previously closed that come from and go back to the
pool.

14. Turn on the water quality pump and check the pressure on the top of the
filter cartridge. It should have dropped from the maximum pressure that caused
you to clean the filter. It will not go back to the new filter pressure because
there will be some "permanent" clogging of the filter.

15. After cleaning the filter many times it may become stained and/or clogged.
You may not be able to clean it. You may not be able to get the pressure back
more than 3 or 4 psi from the pressure you used to determine that the filter
needed cleaning. In either case it is time to install a new filter and discard
the old one.

Smart Pool owners: You have 1
or 2 smaller filters inside the Skimmer. Turn off the water quality and snap
the door to the skimmer off. It is held by two plastic connectors at the bottom.
Snap off one side and then slide the other out sideways. Reach into the skimmer
and remove the two filters. The lower one has a plastic tab making it easier
to grip it. Pull them out the front of the skimmer. Now go to number 9 above
and clean both. Then put them back in the skimmer and reattach the door. That
should be easy but because the filters are smaller they will have to be cleaned
more frequently.

Vacuuming the Pool:

Your Endless Pool should have a vacuum system. It consists of a vacuum hose,
a vacuum head, and a handle that extends from short to long. The water quality
system is used to vacuum. The vacuum head is passed over the benches and then
the pool bottom in order to pick up particles that have been introduced into
the pool such as sand, insects, and lint. How often you need to vacuum will
depend on how often debris is noticed on the bottom, as well as the owner's
tolerance. Outdoor pools will need to be vacuumed more frequently. (Smart pool
owners should use a portable vacuum system. See the information below. Deep-Six
sells those at a discount price. Contact us at 888-901-5780.)

Pull the skimmer door open and take the skimmer basket out. Put the basket
back in the skimmer opening sideways so the door is forced to remain in the
opened position. Turn the water quality pump on.

Attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Attached the vacuum handle to
the vacuum head so that the 2 plastic buttons to snap in place in order to
hold the 2 together. Put the vacuum head in the water and extend the handle
to full length by turning the plastic piece in the middle that allows extension.
Then turn the piece the other way to lock the extension in place.

It is important to get all the air out of the vacuum hose before attaching
it to the water quality system. Put the free end of the vacuum hose into
the stream of water that is entering the pool at the front on the left side
of the propulsion housing. The water coming into the pool will be shot into
the vacuum hose. The air will be forced out through the vacuum head as will
be noticed by the bubbles coming from it at the bottom of the pool. Take
the hose from the water stream, keep it under water, and more it over to
the skimmer. Hold the skimmer door open and take the skimmer basket out which
was holding the door open. Move the vacuum hose end, keeping it under water,
into the bottom of the skimmer and into the hole at the bottom. The water
will now move from the vacuum head into the skimmer pipe and the pool may
now be cleaned.

With the vacuum handle move the vacuum head over the bench surfaces and the
pool bottom. As the head is moved particles will be picked up from the bottom
of the pool and will get caught in the filter. The pool will look clean when
you have finished.

After cleaning the pool it is time to remove the hose and vacuum head. Hold
the skimmer door open and reach into the skimmer. Pull the vacuum hose from
the hole in the bottom of the skimmer. Put the skimmer basket back into the
skimmer and release the door. Roll the hose up and hold it over the pool. Remove
it from the vacuum head. Shake the water from the hose over the pool water.
Put all away for the next vacuum episode.

For Smart Pool owners: The Catfish is a convenient way to vacuum the pool.

The Catfish is a totally independent and self contained battery powered, dual
function small to medium sized pool, spa and hot tub vacuum cleaner. It operates
on a long life, rechargeable nickel metal hydrate battery. All pool debris is
collected in an easy to replace long life reusable on board filter bag. It attaches
to any standard pool pole for extended reach to clean an entire pool or may
be hand held for spot and quick cleanings.

· Check the chlorine or bromine level to be sure it is between 0.5 and
1.0 ppm. Use the Taylor test kit and match the middle color. If the chlorine
or bromine level becomes too low, critters and algae will grow, and the water
may suddenly get cloudy (white). The level of chlorine is also dependent on
the use of the silver/copper ion system. Do not use silver/copper ion system
with bromine. Nature2 users should keep the chlorine at 0.5 ppm.

Free Chlorine/Combined Chlorine

The difference between Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine
is without a doubt the most misunderstood facet of pool water maintenance within
the industry. Whenever chlorine is added to the water, what is being added is
Free Chlorine. Free Chlorine mixes with the pool water and seeks out substances
that are detrimental to the water quality of the pool (algae, oils, sweat, etc.).
Once Free Chlorine encounters many of these materials, it binds itself with
the material and changes to what is called Combined Chlorine (AKA chloramines).
Combined Chlorine then is removed from the water when the pool is shocked. The
difference between these two chlorine forms is monumental. Simply put, Free
Chlorine is "the good chlorine;" Combined Chlorine is "Bad Chlorine." It is
important to remember that Free Chlorine, in the 0.5 to 1.5 ppm concentration,
does not cause the pool water to emanate a bleach odor. Nor does this concentration
of Free Chlorine cause the pool water to sting the swimmer's eyes. Combined
Chlorine, however, does both: smells strongly of bleach, and stings the eyes.
Due to these effects, if you have a client with an Endless Pool that smells
strongly of bleach, and is stinging their eyes, the solution may be to add a
chlorine shock to the water. Testing the Free chlorine level prior to shock
is still advised.

Stabilized Chlorine/Unstabilized Chlorine/Bromine (See
information below about all the sanitizers)

Chlorine dissipates very quickly when exposed to sunlight.
For this reason, pools that are installed outdoors should be chlorinated with
what is known as "Stabilized Chlorine." Stabilized Chlorine has an additive,
cyanuric acid, which is bonded to the chlorine. The cyanuric acid serves as
sunglasses for the chlorine, protecting the chlorine from breaking down due
to exposure to ultraviolet rays. In an indoor pool, stabilized chlorine should
not be used. Cyanuric acid stays in the water after the chlorine has been used
up, and is only removed by changing the water. High concentrations of cyanuric
acid within pool water can cause several problems, the most noticeable being
an orange grunge that is often mistaken for algae. A good rule of thumb is that
Stabilized Chlorine is for outdoor pools, and Unstabilized Chlorine is for indoor
pools. Exceptions to this rule would be sunroom installations or other indoor
situations where sunlight will be shining directly on to the pool while it is
uncovered. Note: Bleach is an Unstabilized Chlorine. Bleach may not be dramatically
affected by sunlight if used outdoors, but we would advise that Stabilized Chlorine
be used if a client cannot keep a Free Chlorine residual in an outdoor pool
using bleach.

Check the pH of the water. The test kit has phenol red (R-004, red cap) to
do this. Fill the smaller test tube with pool water and put in a drop or two
of R-004 and mix. The phenol red should turn orange when it is added to a sample
of the pool water. If it turns yellow the water is too acid and it will corrode
parts of the pool plumbing, and even the stainless steel benches and propulsion
housing. If it turns red or pink the water is too alkaline the chlorine or bromine will
not kill bacteria as effectively, and you will notice a disinfectant smell in
the pool area. Note: If the color changes rapidly from any of the the colors
above to a purple it means you have too much bromine in the pool.

Check the temperature of the water to be sure the heater is doing the proper
job. Too much heat (especially over 90 degrees) will drive bromine or chlorine
out of the water and cause increased amounts to be added. That becomes expensive.

WEEKLY:

· Check the water level in the pool to maintain it ½" below the
top of the propulsion assembly. If you allow the level of the water to
get too low air will start to enter the skimmer and get into the pump filter
pot and the filter. That will cause the efficiency of both to decrease. Even
worse, if the pump is above the level of the pool water it may loose its prime.
That could lead to a complete stoppage of water flow, loss of heating the pool
water, decreased disinfection, and pump burn-out.

. Check the Total Alkalinity. Raise Total Alkalinity by adding
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). Lower Total Alkalinity by adding either Muriatic
Acid or Sodium Bisulfate. Included with your pool kit are containers of Sodium
Bicarbonate (Alkalinity Plus) and Sodium Bisulfate (pH Lower). More is available
at any pool store. Follow directions on the containers keeping in mind that
an 7' x 14' Endless Pool contains 2,500 gallons (some over 4,000 gallons or
more with a deeper section or in larger pools) of water. Always add chemicals
to the pool with the swim current running to ensure even distribution. Add less
than you think necessary. Wait a few hours and test again. Write down how much
you added, and the results after the chemical addition. Once you get this under
control it may be possible to check this on a monthly, rather than weekly, basis.

· Check the filter basket in the skimmer and remove any debris that has
accumulated. This is mainly for outdoor pools. Indoor pools may go for weeks
without having a significant accumulation of debris in the skimmer filter basket.

MONTHLY:

· Vacuum the pool. For outdoor pools this may have to be done more
frequently, even daily.

· Check the filtration pressure. When it reads 5 - 10 psi higher than
the initial reading it is time to clean the filter.

· Do a leak check. Are you adding water to the pool frequently? Do you
see water at the base of the pool that has no apparent source? Check around
the pipes, lights, jets, etc. to see if water is dripping down the wall of the
pool. Check for exterior rust at the bottom of the pool panels. And, do not
go into denial if you see water. Call us if you need advice..

. If you are using bromine as a disinfectant: Add approximately 25
1" tablets to the brominator.

6 MONTHS:

. Change the silver/copper chemical cartridges in the filter if you
have used 2 cartridges. If you have elected to use bromine the cartridges have
been eliminated from the system.

YEARLY:

· Remove front grill in the pool propulsion unit and clean it.

· Remove bottom grill in propulsion unit and clean it.

. Clean the filter pots in the filter pump (and jet pump, if you have
one). This should be done more frequently if the pool is outdoors.

· Check all screws for tightness.

· Check hydraulic oil for color. Wipe some oil from the crankcase opening,
dipstick, or a disconnected hydraulic hose on to a white paper towel. Check
the color against the following chart. If it is not yellow but is brown the
fluid must be changed.

What about installing a totally
automatic system that will maintain the pH and chlorine levels without a hassle?
Try the Aquasol System. It keeps the chemicals at the precise level the pool,
the spa, or the hot tub owner desires:

The following 3 documents are from the Endless Pools
Factory Trained Installers Department 11/28/05:

The following is reprinted from
the Endless Pool Tech Bulletin #26: (If you are using Bromine as a
disinfectant slight changes would be made to the following according to the
above information.)

The test kit provided by Endless Pools tests for Chlorine,
Bromine, Total Alkalinity, pH, and Calcium Hardness. Test for all and write
down your results along with the time and date on the log sheet provided.
We have found that it is very helpful to write down your test results,
observations, and actions taken in a systematic way to identify problems.
Also, check and record the filter pressure after bleeding off air (see filter
instructions).

Assuming now a familiarity with basic Water Chemistry
terms we recommend doing the following in the order listed:

1) Balance Total Alkalinity. We recommend a Total Alkalinity
of 100 parts per million ("ppm"). Raise Total Alkalinity by adding Sodium
bicarbonate (baking soda). Lower Total Alkalinity by adding either Muriatic
Acid or Sodium Bisulfate. Included with your pool kit are containers of Sodium
Bicarbonate (Alkalinity Plus) and Sodium Bisulfate (pH Lower). More is available
at any pool store. Follow directions on the containers keeping in mind that
an Endless Pool contains 2,500 gallons (over 3,000 gallons with deep section)
of water. Always add chemicals to the pool with the swim current running
to ensure even distribution. Add less than you think necessary. Wait a few
hours and test again. Write down how many level tablespoons you added, and
the results of the following tests using the test log provided.

2) Balance Calcium Hardness. We recommend a Calcium Hardness
of 180 ppm. Raise Calcium Hardness by adding Calcium Chloride. A container
of Calcium Chloride was provided with your pool. As with all chemicals add
less than you think necessary, wait a few hours and test again. Write down
how many level tablespoons you added and the results of the following tests
using the test log provided.

3) Balance pH. The Phenol Red should show an orange color.
We recommend a pH level of 7.5. Raise pH with Sodium Carbonate (pH
Up) and lower pH with Sodium Bisulfate (pH Down). Note that you lower pH
with the same chemicals used to lower Total Alkalinity. This is important
and often confusing. Always adjust Total Alkalinity first before considering
pH. If you are having trouble balancing your pH after correcting your Total
Alkalinity, please consult a pool service professional or call our Customer
Service Department.

4) In the beginning, 'Shock' the pool by adding 2 cups
of regular unscented Clorox bleach with the pool swim current running. Clorox
bleach is a dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite (5%) and is the most effective
and most economical way to oxidize your pool. We recommend maintaining 0.5
to 1.0 ppm Free Chlorine in your pool at all times. If the liner is slippery,
brush the liner with the vinyl liner pool brush provided first before shocking
the pool. A slippery liner is an indication of algae growth and means that
some additional chlorine above your normal dosage is required.

5) After 24 hours of the first operation of the filter
following the addition of Clorox, bleed off air at the filter and note the
pressure on test log sheet. If the pool has been contaminated with construction
debris during installation, you may wish after 24 hours to exchange or clean
the cartridge filter. Review pump and filter literature before doing this.
Typically the cartridge should be removed and cleaned when the filter pressure
rises 5 psi above starting pressure. In indoor installations and with light
to moderate use, this may be only once every month. The filter pressure should
be checked weekly or monthly in indoor installations. After repeated cleaning
the initial starting pressure will get greater and greater. When the starting
pressure after cleaning continues to be at 8-10 psi higher than when the
filter was new, replace the filter.

6) Water Chemistry monitoring and adjustment can now
be done every few days with an emphasis on chlorine and pH. It is critical
for the long life of your equipment that these stay within range Although
as important, Total Alkalinity will fluctuate less frequently and needs to
be checked approximately every two weeks. Calcium hardness will change slowly
over time and need only be checked every month or two.

Please be sure to read the Nature2 literature regarding the
necessity of chlorine and oxidation in your water, Your copper/silver purification
system will disinfect the water but it will not "burn out" small particles which
can both cling to the liner causing it to be slippery or make the water cloudy.
We recommend getting into a routine that involves adding a measured amount of
Clorox bleach either every time you swim as you leave the water, or
at the very least every 3 days. This measured amount depends on pool
use. One person swimming every day for 30 minutes might add 1/2 cup after each
swim. This small amount will not be noticeable and will maintain the required
0.5 to 1.0 ppm chlorine residual. Heavier use and use by children generally
requires more chlorine. Adding 1 cup of Clorox bleach to a standard Endless
Pool raises the chlorine level by 1.0 ppm. Test your water for chlorine periodically
to insure that you are maintaining a 0.5 to 1.0 ppm residual. Cloudy water or
a slippery liner should be immediately acted upon by adding 2 cups of Clorox
bleach. The 2.0 ppm chlorine level that will be attained as a result will subside
in a day.

Heater: It is very important that you read the heater
literature before operating the heater. Please refer to either Tech Bulletin
12 for the gas heater or Tech Bulletin 19 for the electric heater. During the
initial 24-hour start-up period, you may turn on your heater to bring the pool
water up to temperature. A common problem with the electric heater is the adjustment
of the pressure switch. The pressure switch arrives preset by the manufacturer;
you must verify that this setting is correct and have an electrician adjust
it if necessary. The pressure switch is part of the safety circuit on the heater.
When the pump turns on, the pressure switch senses water pressure, allowing
the heater to turn on. When the pump turns off, the water pressure drops, triggering
the pressure switch to turn off the heater. You must verify
that the heater turns off when the pump turns off. If the light on the
heater does not turn off when the pump stops, the pressure switch is being activated
by static water pressure and needs adjustment. Again, please consult the enclosed
heater literature for instructions on making this important adjustment.

Floating Thermal Cover: Endless Pools, Inc. provides a
lightweight cover for the Endless Pool. This should be used if the retractable
cover is not installed. This cover floats on the water surface, insulating the
pool while preventing evaporation. Consistent use of this cover will keep the
water cleaner, save energy, and keep the room's humidity lower. The cover should
be completely removed from the water before the machine is used. Swimmers have
drown under pool covers.

Customized Speed Settings: The Endless Pool is now ready
for use. The air button or remote turns the machine on and off, and the blue
knob or remote buttons sets the current speed. The Endless Pool is capable of
producing extremely strong currents that most swimmers will not need.