It is also possible to cut the bullnose into the wall angle. You
should try this on some scrap a time or two and keep for a
pattern. Cut the vertical leg of the wall angle where the curve
begins, carefully bend this vertical leg down and flatten, cut the
bullnose curve, install. When you bring the other piece through
you can use either a butt or miter.

Only you can decide if that is good enough. What I was trying to
describe before - one more attempt in less subtle language.
Wall angle #1&2 both need to be about 1" longer than their
respective walls, they are going to cross each other, it is normal
to cut off the vertical portion that extends beyond the corner on
both of these pieces, It is normal to cut a miter on the
bottom(exposed) piece. This time don't cut off the vertical part
of #1, but make the same vertical cut as if you were going to
remove it, take a hammer and smash the end of wall angle #1 flat,
it is now almost 2" wide.. Cut the bullnose shape on the newly
flattened end so this can fit the curve of the wall. Wall angle
#2's tip will go below and be exposed (wall angle !'s bullnose cut
fitting the bullnose, the tips can be pop riveted, though if
things fit well, probably not), it can either terminate flush at
the outside of #1 or miter from that outside meeting point back
toward the center point of the wall corner. The opening that
would have shown at the bullnose is eliminated and very few people
will ever know how you did it.
Inside bullnose corners demand a similar, though slightly
different treatment.
If you smash it with a hammer, you will probably ruin the paint-
so I suggested you push it down a bit less forcefully. I cannot
envision any other way to describe the condition. Bullnose is
still fairly rare in commercial work, but pay attention to the
treatment if you find some, I think you will find exactly what I
have described. If you see the big gap with caulk smeared in it,
or left open, consider the quality of the installation.

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