MSN

Website URL

Yahoo

Skype

Facebook

Twitter

Name

Location

Interests

Drives

By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin
GM-Trucks.com Staff
Copyright 2015
Parts & Tools Needed
One (1) 11mm fine thread bolt with nut
One foot of 12-gauge wire
Two (2) crimpable eye fittings
Shrink wrap
Zip ties
Socket Set
Pliers
Wire stripper/Cutters
Estimated price: $12.00
Time to complete: 30 minutes
What is It?
The relocation of the antenna from stock placement to under the hood for a cleaner look.
Skill Level
Beginner
Warnings and Precautions
This relocation will reduce your ability to pick up AM/FM signals. We performed this modification for aesthetic purposes only. OnStar and SirusXM reception will not be affected.
Performed On
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab SLT
Step One
The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project.
Step Two
Unscrew and remove the antenna with a small wrench or pliers. Use a rag or paper towel to protect the antenna and prevent scratching the paint in case you want to return it to stock in the future.
Step Three
Carefully remove plastic trim panel that covers antenna stud. You can pull this piece off with your hands but don’t use too much force or you risk breaking it.
Step Four
Cut a section of 12-gauge wire approximately one foot in length. Strip about a quarter of an inch off each end. Place two sections of shrink wrap on the wire then crimp the eye-terminal onto the ends of the wire. Heat the shrink wrap to ensure proper seal.
Step Five
Place the eye-terminal on the 11mm bolt and thread it into the open end of the antenna and tighten down with socket wrench and hold antenna in position with pliers, again being careful not to scratch paint off.
Step Six
Place antenna under hood in desired location. We chose to relocate under the fender pinch rail next to the battery and intake.
Step Seven
Route wire up to antenna post being careful to avoid areas where it may pinch. Place the eye-terminal over the post and tighten down with the 11mm bolt.
Step Eight
Secure antenna with zip ties making sure it is tight to mounting point so it will not move around under rough conditions.
Step Nine
Place plastic trim panel back over antenna area. Optionally, cover hole with rubber plug, cap, or tape. We've got various sized plugs on order and will update this article if we can find a good fit to cover the left over hole.
Conclusion
This is an easy and cheap modification to clean up the exterior look of your pickup. Our 2011 Sierra looks way more modern without the ugly mast poking out of the hood. The downside to relocating our antenna is greatly reduced reception. That said, we live in a rural area where reception wasn't great to begin with. Stronger signals in urban areas still work but range you can travel from the station will be limited. Since we rarely use the radio and almost always stream music, this isn't an issue for us.

I am looking to see if anyone has been able to program their own key fobs with any cheaper machines. I have seen the Dorman programmers on eBay and Amazon which can program a 2016 Sierra Key fob. I would like to purchase a programmer or something similar like a diagnostic tool that could also program my wife’s 2012 Malibu or at least the newer GM trucks. Has anyone had luck or know of anyone able to program keys and key fobs with any cheaper tools? Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hey all! So, as y’all know I have a 2014 Silverado. I installed LED reverse and cargo bulbs a couple months ago but I noticed there’s interference, and I don’t know what to do to fix it.
Calling all electricians out there that know what I could do to fix this.
Open for any responses, suggestions, and solutions.
Thanks, y’all!

Hi All,
About 6 months ago we created a youtube video showing how to remove your front seats and center. That video has received over 7K views and we received many requests for a detailed video guide of how to swap to the center console found in the LTZ models into the trucks with the 40-20-40 bench seats. The parts cost between $600-$750 depending on the source. This is not an upgrade I particularly want in my truck but I have setup a go-fund-me me page (click here). If we can raise enough money, Pete and I will shoot a detailed guide for everyone's benefit. I hope we can get this video created for you!

Morning/ Afternoon,
I have a question about over filling your oil with the newer silverado's. I recently just changed my oil since I got my truck about 3 months ago using the 0W-20 mobil 1. I put in 8 quarts exacly (without filling the filter). let it sit for a second then started her up. Truck ran for a couple of minutes then I shut it off, let it sit for about 10 min and checked the oil. I was not able to read the oil level as accurately as Im used to due to how freaking light the color of the oil lol, so light! I drove it for about a 100 miles, let it sit then checked it again. oil level was right above the hatch line if not right on it so I drained out just a tad to make me feel better then checked again. Now its sitting just above the top dimple but still within the hatch line area. So I guess my question is... Do you think over filling that much would be enough to damage any internals or pump? Any insight is very much appreciated, thank you.

What's up ya'll. I've had my front and rear Rough Country floor mats in my 2014 Silverado Double Cab for a bit over a year. I shot a quick update video to show you guys how they are holding up and protecting my floors

The Sundae Drive does an in-depth video showing how to install an oil catch can for a 2014 Silverado 5.3L. What are the benefits of an oil catch can? Well if you visit the follwing sites you can read all about the benefits and importance of running an oil catch can. Catch cans are NOT ONLY for turbo/supercharger applications. They can be very beneficial for people with naturally aspirated setups. https://www.redline-motorworks.com/bl... http://oilcatchcan.com/oil-catch-can-... Purpose of your Stock PCV System: The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to regulate and remove fumes from the engine crankcase and to alleviate crankcase pressure which could cause oil leaks or seal damage. The PCV system routes crankcase fumes into the intake manifold where they can be burned to eliminate harmful emissions into the atmosphere. The PCV valve controls the amount of crankcase flow volume depending on the engine's load. With large throttle openings (high engine loads), the more blow-by gases are produced, and the more the PCV system flows oil vapor into the intake manifold. A small amount of that ignited mixture leaks past the piston rings and ends up in the crankcase. This leakage is often referred to a "blow-by" or leakage past the pistons. Some of the oil mist and other products settle along the engine intake and over time form a "gunk". Our oil catch can collect the oil mist and condensed the fuel vapors while allowing "cleaner" gasses to pass back into the intake manifold. To pick up a Catch Can of your own go check out: http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/ Here is the link for the E2 Catch itself and a diagram showing how it works! http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/e2...

Hey Guys,
After lurking on the forums and finding nothing on how to install a roof tent onto our trucks; I decided to take the plunge and see what it would take to get this done. As these style of tents are up there in pricing, (even more so for those of us in Canada), I didn't want to deal spending money excessively on rack systems that wouldn't be compatible with the tent, so I spoke directly with Smittybilt to see what they would recommend for mounting the tent on our trucks.
At first I was considering using one of their contractor ladder racks as they were rated for 1000lbs and offered the ability to mount additional accessories such as light bars, tools and etc. however, their tech-line representative stated that the contractor racks would not only be too wide to properly secure tent but would be limited to having only one position of how the tent opens provided I found or made the appropriate brackets to make it work. Since I was already going into reasonably uncharted territory, I wanted to take the simpler route that even the entry level novice would be comfortable installing using regular household tools with a buddy or two.
This led me to the TracRac ladder rack system - as every tent and roof related accessory supplier has led me to believe our roofs aren't rated for carrying weight in general - since it installs in the bed and has cross rails to mount additional items on the sides.
In the interest of not making this post redundant, as both kits have fairly reasonable supplied instructions, I will note the key aspects and tips for installation.
Installation was performed on: 2015 Sierra 1500 crew with 5’8” box
Part numbers used:
1x TracRac 37002
1x Smittybilt 2783
4x 773680 -5” zinc bracket Home Depot
Additional tools:
7/32 Allen key and/or Socket
3/16 Allen key and/or Socket
Tape measure - preferably one that reads in inches
Drill and drill kit
Dust pan and brush or vaccum
1-2 additional sets of hands
Assemble TracRac: https://c2.rt-static.com/shared/pdf/manufacturers/297/tracrac-pro2.pdf
I found it easier to mount the posts first then worry about attaching the crossbars afterwards.
The clamps supplied from TracRac are drilled on both sides and the instructions will not make it clear which side is the top or bottom. They are also lined with paint on the inside so before installing the clamps it is a good idea feed the recommended screws into the clamp a few times beforehand just to make it easier to install.
The side that forms an inner ridge is the side that goes on top. This will go into the groove found on the posts. The Smittybilt tent has a 47" x57" spread, so be sure to make sure the distance between the front and rear bars posts is around 3.5FT to 3.75FT, this will allow you ample space to properly position the tent onto the bars.
The supplied instructions state that for the front the required spacing between clamps must be at least 3” apart, and for the rear 7” apart. I chose to have both the front and rear to have the same spacing since I do not plan on mounting a tool box in the bed of the truck.
Once the posts have installed measure lengths of the cross bars to be equally spaced out from the posts as best you can. So that they are evenly placed.
I did not install the supplied tie downs on the crossbars yet as I wanted to make sure the roof tent will fit correctly before installing them.

First off, I'd like to say I am in no way sponsored by any companies or brands represented in this write up. It is simply a 3rd party review and how to.
Below are a couple of videos I wanted to share in here on how to install an HID kit for a 2014/2015 Sierra (1500's, it may work on some 2015 2500HD's, but YMMV). I am using a kit made by The Retrofit Source. They specially made this kit with K2 1500 Sierra's in mind.
It comes complete with:
-Choice of 35watt or 55watt ballasts, high quality Morimoto pieces. I am using 35watt units.
-Choice of 3000k, 4500k, 5000k, 6000k HID bulbs (also include alcohol wipes to clean bulbs before installation, nice touch)
--- I used a 4500K bulb, which is classified as "warm white" (slightly white-blue at startup, but after about 15-20 seconds becomes the "warm white" color)
-Relay Harness w/ built in fuse. This harness has nice ring connectors to connect to battery + and -
-Canbus harness (error code eliminator)
-Igniter harness x2
-ballasts to bulb harness w/ rubber grommet to seal headlight dust covers. x2
Overall, i thought the kit was very well constructed. High quality braided wiring, all shrink wrapped, potted electronics, waterproof connectors. All A+ quality.
I got this kit for $170 off their website, but if you make an account, and load the kit into your cart, then leave it a few days, they will send you a coupon code for 10% off. Not a bad deal IMHO.
Link to the Sellers website
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/
Link to the specific kit
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-sierra-low-beam.html?carDisplay=2014+GMC+Sierra++%28Projectors%29&preselect=4.1.3-HARN-RELAY-9012%2CXB-BALLAST-35%2C5.3.3-XB3-9012-45
It does require you drill a hole in the dust covers to get the wires to pass through, but it is not hard and can be done with a cordless drill and a 7/8" hole bit.
First video is a review of the kit by itself:
This next video is the actual installation of the kit
And this final video is how to properly aim your headlights (made a few months ago before I had HID's but the concept is the same)
Enjoy. Hopefully these videos help some folks out!
FINAL VERDICT
-Good upgrade in light output using stock projectors. Not very hard to install, but I will still rate it 3.5/5 on a scale of difficulty. 5 being hardest. Just because it requires some work with electronics, which not everyone is comfortable doing.
I am very happy with the end result. There is a lot more clean white light out on the road and I can see a lot better on dark roads. Properly aimed, I should not be blinding any other drivers.
Post below with questions.

So I've put a scrap piece of carpet in the bed and I'm starting to kind of enjoy it. Along with the kids, who think it's a great place to lay down and play. lol
Has anyone attempted any sort of DIY bedrug? $400 is a little more than i would be interested in spending. I have a retractable cover already, so I was thinking maybe some marine carpet over top of some type of foam maybe?

I wanted something to hold smaller items in the bed so I made these dividers and used a branding iron for the chevy logo. The divider closer to the cab is darker as I just finished the poly on it. The other one I made last winter has been used and only had 1 coat of poly as it was too cold at the time. I'll have to redo it at some point. I'm going to add some quickfists to the one near the cab to hold some camping gear (hatchet, shovel, etc...).

I'm looking at mounting a 20-21" light bar in my bumper valance of my 02' Sierra. I haven't been able to find much information on how/where to mount it.
Would it be okay to drill into the skid plate to mount the light bar? Would the brackets included with most the light bars work for this or should I look into making custom brackets?
I also have head that I'll need to trim out some of the plastic in the valance so I can position the light bar better.
I attached a picture I found online for a visual. I understand this is a newer truck compared to mine but it's still the same idea. Thanks!

Quick guide we put together on how to remove the front seats and center console with the split 40-20-40 bench seat. If you have any suggestions or comments post below! I will be uploading a guide on how to remove the seatbelts in the near future.

New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas?
Thank you,
Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner