Dumb question about cleaning...

when it comes to cleaning the barrel, i have a couple things i picked up from a sporting store. i bought a universal guncleaning kit from remington i think it was. anyway, it came with RemOil and BoreBright. they didnt have directions on how and when to use them. I also but some stuff that comes in a can like compressed air, i think called gun scrubber or something. Which ones do i use in what order and on what parts should i use them on?

BoreBright is probably a copper and lead solvent. Hit the barrel and chamber with that, let it sit for 30 seconds or so. Run a patch through it (well, multiple patches) until the patches come out dry and clean. Hit another patch with Rem oil, pass it through the barrel once, just to get a light coating. Gun Scrubber can be used as a solvent. Hit the chamber and moving, dirty parts with it, scrub out with the nylon brush included with your cleaning kit. Dry it as best as possible. Hit all parts that move with oil.

Depending on the firearm, some guns like to be run "wet", meaning more oil. AR-15s, and 1911s like to be wet.

Contrary to extremely popular belief, I do not believe a barrel has to be cleaned every time on every gun. I'd say it hit with BoreBright if you plan to leave it unfired or stored for a longer period of time. If you carry the firearm in a CCW capacity, keep it a little more wet with RemOil, as it will dry out and be exposed to more humid weather than a gun left in a safe.

In several comparason tests of major gun oil brands RemOil proved to be a fairly poor rust-preventative. You can't go wrong with a small ten-dollar spray can of BreakFree CLP (Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative). From the spray tube it foams out and really penetrates, then it liquifies and really cleans, then it sort of "dries" down into a long-lasting, light "greasy" coating. BreakFree CLP was US military issue for decades..........................elsullo :thumbup:

I have really good success with cleaning the barrel out first with patches on a tight fitting jag soaked with Hoppes No. 9. Run a few wet ones through one after the other, let it sit wet while you go clean the other parts, then run a few more soaked patches through on a jag. I rarely have to use a brush in the bore. Key for me is using a proper fitting jag vs. a patch loop. Then I run a patch wet with Weapons Shield, run a few dry patches through and good to go. I use a little weapons shield gun grease on rails and sliding parts.

In several comparason tests of major gun oil brands RemOil proved to be a fairly poor rust-preventative. You can't go wrong with a small ten-dollar spray can of BreakFree CLP (Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative). From the spray tube it foams out and really penetrates, then it liquifies and really cleans, then it sort of "dries" down into a long-lasting, light "greasy" coating. BreakFree CLP was US military issue for decades..........................elsullo :thumbup:

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BreakFree for years. Just this weekend I used it to lube the electric steps on my MH, before that I've used it for motorcycle chains (when they all still had chains and not belts). Works for me.

Bore Scrubber or Bore Bright down the bore... let it soak a few minutes, cram some patches down the bore, when clean, lightly oil. Use the compressed solvent for cleaning out action parts... it's usually good at getting into all the small areas...save yourself a detail stripping.

1911s do like a lot of oil. I use a lot of Tetra grease on mine. Keeps everything going oh sooo smooth. CLP is great.... I used to use that to clean my Enfields out...works great, and as advertised.

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