The original monitor that sat in the garage was a Trinitron 20". When researching basic cabinet designs I was mostly using arcadecab.com plans. I never saw anything like the woody, or other small cabs until later in my build.

However, after lamenting the size (which is actually a skosh smaller than some dynamo-types), I realized that my 3 kids would completely destry a slimcab such as the woody. Their first order of business would be to tip the thing over.

As well, my plans do include putting a stronger computer and TV in there in the future.

And, do be perfectly candid...I was going to re-use my original CP until I stumbled on this site. I simply couldn't build something "good enough".

edit: Updating with a video explaining the Yaksplat-designed 12V-10A relay solution that I used with my cabinet.

OK. Couple of updates over the weekend. First, my son's t-ball league was invited to walk the warning track at the Ted (Braves Stadium...Atlanta), so that was an entire day...

*AND*...my wife successfully found where I was storing my de-cased LCD to keep it safe from the kids and dropped it on the ground from about 5 feet. Of course, it was *my* fault. So, I'll have to get another brand and possibly re-cut the entire monitor bezel...we'll see.

But, I was able to get my power issues addressed. First, I wanted an industrial look inside the cab. I want as little exposed thin-guage wire as possible. I don't want too much exposed 5V and 12V runs... I also didn't want to see power-strips either...and I couldn't even find one locally to de-case if I wanted to.

So, searching for alternatives to the smart power-strip, I looked here and found an excellent writeup by yaksplat using a 12V 10A DPDT relay. I was able to source it at RadioShack and I had a $5 coupon, so actual price was 4 bux. All the other stuff, I had laying around (I know, I know...not everyone will have steel gang-boxes laying around, but I'm weird like that).

The long and short is that I will have a 3 Pin IEC320 C14 socket feeding romex to the initial dual-gang box.

A power switch feeds power to the black outlets. The PC will plug in here. I have a tap on the 12V from a power feeding into a second single-gang box where the 12V 10A relay is. One throw is for common, one for hot and these trip when the PC comes on and feeds power to the relay.

I will be replacing the white blank with a metal one...I only had a single light switch plate in metal and I don't want little fingers getting in there. I thought about using plexi, but....the relay isn't very exciting.

Once the relay is tripped, the curcuit is closed and common and hot are sent *UP* into the top of the cab to another dual-gang box with white outlets denoting switched power (to me). These will be off until the PC is started:

(sorry for the crappy pic).

Total price was about 10 bux, including the cost of the romex. But, I had a 5 dollar RS coupon, so...15 bux.

The only other thing I got done was mounting the amp/speaker controls on the speaker panel. You purists will hate it, but I need it since this will be a juke when it's not being used.

I also painted the Pyle speaker grills, too. They were plastic stereo-colored, now they're hammered black.

Thunderbolts are my favorite planes. There's just something about their sheer brutality that I love. That, and the inconel and titanium survivability tubs built around the gatling gun that really pop my taco.

I had a house at the end of the flight path at Bradley International (BDL) and used to love to watch the 103rd do exercises with the A-10. It's an impressive airframe and amazing to watch. The approach into BDL was impressive as they had to do a high speed 90 degree turn during the approach. The only thing I've ever seen turn in like that was an F1 car. Amazing.

In terms of aircraft wiring....if you've never witnessed technicians putting together a wiring loom for an engine or airframe, it's amazing thing and something every tech-nerd should witness. When I worked at Pratt & Whitney (I was in IT), I loved going to the test facility and seeing the engines in different states of assembly. The wiring/plumbing was always amazing. My brother in law was in charge of assembly on the F-22 port intake. We got to see the flight line about 5 years ago and THAT was impressive.

Had company over for a couple nights...his cat lived in the garage while he was here, so no workie.

But, I got out there tonight and installed the SPEAKERS and wired up the amp and the LEDs in the speakers.

First, I had to unsolder the internal LEDs from the speaker terminals because the amp doesn't have enough juice to pull them. So, I hacked some nice leads on there with some spade connectors. Next, I hacked a 12V walwart and put the leads to the terminal block with 3 + and 3 - terminals. The amp was wired with spade connectors, too and the speaker LEDs and amp attached here...

The walwart plugs into the white sockets that are powered by the relay circuit...

Here's the speakers installed. One of them is just a bit off center, but I'll probably leave it alone...actually, I think the 2 knobs for the amp make it look that way...

Here they are powered up...

Movie of the sound. It's about 15w per side and this is without the sub. The small knob controls the sub and the large one is for the volume...

Sorry for the crappy iPhone audio...it pumps pretty well...this was from the headphone jack on my garage laptop.

I'm going to tidy up the wiring and call it soup. I'm guessing because the speaker LEDs were originally wired directly to the speaker leads, they're 12V so I'm going to power them here.

I also got my marquee light installed on the top cover, but it's just an 18" under counter florescent....not very exciting.

on to the marquee and PC wiring. I also have to install and wire some other lights that you haven't seen yet. Coin-door too!!

edit: I've created a video explaining what I used for my marquee retainer.

06/18/12

Trial fit the marquee last night. I used the clear plastic edge protectors in the wallpaper section at HD as my marquee retainer. It was a buck ninety eight.

Once the marquee was in.....it was clear that the white light was not going to work...

Disappointed, I remembered that I had bought an extra set of 4" blue CCFLs. So...what the hell, I'll try that. Since I had the 12V header sitting right there, why not?

Violay!!! It worked!

The PC is now wired for the 12V leads that I need (the 12V 10Amp relay and the coin door lights) so I'm ready to get that working. I also wired the coin door and installed it on the cab, but no pics until that sucka is lit!!

All that's left is to mount the new LCD...I got an NEC Multisync as a replacement for the Dell...and paint and install the rear door.

I plan on playing this thing by the end of tomorrow. I still need to order the glass...I still haven't decided if I'm going with admin buttons on the bezel, or just using some shifted keys on the iPac.

It's been a while since I updated the thread...primarily because we've been playing the crap out of the machine in the garage and partly because I'm waiting for the funds to clear up so I can order the plexi from Tap Plastics. But, here's a quickie. First off, the machines been done for a few weeks now. Sorry for not updating the thread (For those who actually care), but we're still having to open the rear door and push the power button on the PC until I get the fundage for the monitor plexi and power switch...so here's where it is now...

First, I updated the art for Mamewah. I think it came out pretty good:

In another thread about GGG EI2 buttons, someone asked about the edge-lighting effect that I'd accidentally gotten with my plexi CP cover. So, I got to thinking...there are 2 reasons I got this effect:1.) I didn't polish any of the router cuts from when I formed the CP cover..2.) I accidentally left about 1/64 (or less) exposed above the t-molding when I routed it.

Happily and accidentally, I got a funky edge-light effect from the EI2 buttons. So, I put an ever-so-small chamfer on the edge using some 1500 grit sandpaper and came up with this:

It really defines the CP playfield and when I finally get my GGG ball tops, I suspect they will light up a little, too.

Here's the little man killing bad guys in TMNT..

The paint came out excellent...once I have the glass on the monitor, I will be putting 2 admin buttons and one power button *THROUGH* the monitor plexi. One will be a Pause and one will be Esc. I'm thinking I'll do a vandal switch for the power...

Here's a shot of it litup with the monitor image removed with photochop:

I ended up using wallpaper edge from HD...$1.35. I painted it black on the inside (like on R/C car bodies) and it has a deep black with the gloss outside. The bolts at the bottom are cap screws with a Nebucadnezzar finish:

Since I want the plexi to come off the machine with the entire monitor mount, it will be mounted to the monitor bezel with aluminum J-channels normally used for bathroom mirrors. $4.88 and some Rustoleum Hammered black paint later and vavoom:

Arcade endplates from Tornado Terrys (I've had these for 4 years..)

Overall, the cab looks professional both inside and out. I'll be doing a overview movie once I get the plexi installed on the monitor. I'm ordering 3/16 Solar Grey from Tap and I can't wait to have this thing finished:

Now...to move it into the basement...hmmm...where's that old hand truck?

Oh, damn...it's been sitting next to the shed for 5 years! What to do? RESTORE IT!!!! HAHAHAHA. A small project for this week while I wait for my next paycheck...restoring a hand truck...

Finally got the power button installed. It's a vandal switch from frozencpu.com. Expensive little sucker, but I love the look. I originally wanted to put this through the monitor bezel and plexi, but the LED is a little too bright and I think it'd shine right in rugrat eyes, so I located it where moms and runts can both find it....right on the front! It's cool because you can't see it when the machine is off, but when it's on, there's no mistaking it:

Putting in the switch was nerve wracking and tough. Basically, I had to first drill a 1 1/4" hole for clearance, but only about 1/2" through the MDF. Then, I had to drill the hole for the switch in the middle of that. Because I had to use spade bits, I had to go REALLY slow on the final hole and drill from the front first, then from the back so I wouldn't have any tearout. I think it came out nice.

While I had it turned around and crawling inside, I re-did all the wire management. Oh, and I finally took some pictures of the completed back:

Brass lock in back because Lowes didn't have chrome that day. . Otherwise, it's just a piano hinge in Hammered Black.

Vents are 2" soffett vents on the door and 3" ones on the top....all painted hammered black. The cab seems to not need a fan with this setup. I have it in the garage in 90 degree weather and the temp in the cab usually isn't much hotter than ambient, so I'm happy. Should be even better when I move it to the basement.

Ordered the 3/16" solar grey plexi from Tap yesterday. Once it's here, this puppy is done.

Just a quick update...a couple things happened over the last week. First, my plexi arrived from TAP Plastics. I got the 3/16" solar grey. When I say this made all the difference, I mean THIS MADE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. From what it was....a project in my garage....

To something that my neighbors keep thinking is a purchased cabinet, or at the very least, a kit...

My idea was to create an entirely modular LCD mount that comes out as one piece, including the glass. So, I used knohbody's idea of using the 3/4" MDF as the actual bezel, routing the back to accept the monitor almost flush, then mounting the glass to it. This allows me to pop out the entire monitor mount after just unplugging the VGA and power cable to the LCD. Look further up the build thread for specifics about the mounting process.

So, after I remove the mount, I get a hole (that silver thing on the wall of the cab is a Netgear USB wireless adapter):

And here's the actual mount.

The glass is then simply slipped into the J-channel from the side...

Then, the mount is simply installed back into the machine...

I was going to put 2 buttons through the bezel and plexi....one Pause button and one Esc button, but I decided against it. Since we've been using it without those buttons and using shifted buttons, the kids are used to the shifted buttons now. I'm glad because I think the plexi is def.

After getting the monitor brightness and contrast set, here's the end product.

I've also completed the restoration of the Blue Pill Mobility Device. It was pretty much a wreck...

But, with an excellent $4.89 coupon for 10" tires from Harbor Freight, a half empty can of Aircraft Stripper and a leftover can of Rustoleum Hammered Black, I now have the ultimate Blue Pill Mobility Device....hahahaha. No wonder my wife and neighbors think I'm nutz.

I mean c'mon....would you put The Blue Pill on this thing?

I'm working right now on my "reveal" video. Yet another thing I have to learn. I'm thinking I'll do some short 3 minute jobs highlighting the unusual or unique stuff I did (as well as how to be cheap. ) and one final video highlighting the overall build.

This is the endBeautiful friendThis is the endMy only friend, the endOf our elaborate plans, the endOf everything that stands, the endNo safety or surprise, the endI'll never look into your eyes...againCan you picture what will beSo limitless and freeDesperately in need...of some...stranger's handIn a...desperate landLost in a Roman...wilderness of painAnd all the children are insane

Thanks all for reading and paying attention. Hopefully, I can pass on a little of what I learned from the members here and progress my skills as I build some more. Onto my Knievel slimline ripoff and a bartop!!