We have tried all sorts over the years, most notably when "The Times" ran a promotion with the Heligan Gardens, the upshot being packets of rareties such as salsify and scorzenara arriving month by month.

Petter Nilsson, chef at La Gazzetta in Paris, won full marks for the most original dish—a meal consisting of Jerusalem artichokes, salsify and truffles, accompanied by local sweet berries and herbs, which he imagined a wild boar would eat.

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"Salsify, or Oyster Plant. After scraping off the outside, parboil it, slice it, dip the slices into a beaten egg and fine bread crums sic, and fry in lard. It is very good boiled, and then stewed a few minutes in milk, with a little salt and butter. Or, make a batter of wheat flour, milk, and eggs; cut the salsify in thin slices, first boiling it tender; put them into the batter with a little salt; drop the mixture into hot fat by spoonfuls. Cook them till of a light brown."