THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Heirloom Restaurant Review

: Remember Michael DeMaria of Michael’s at the Citadel, who, when he closed that restaurant in 2007, disappeared into the world of catering? He’s back, and better than ever, with this lovely salute to contemporary American cuisine, scaled down from his Citadel in terms of prices and portions but still packing nearly as much pizzazz. Fish and meat entrées are on the small side, but according to the food doctors, we're meant to be watching our portion sizes anyway, and since the dishes utilize topnotch seasonal-local goods that change monthly, we're not complaining. Proteins are à la carte (sort-of), so mix and match dishes like the bacon-seared arctic char on cauliflower purée plus a side of Parmesan-onion risotto with cinnamon-roasted duck breast accompanied by asparagus béarnaise. DeMaria loves home-style desserts; finish up with chocolate pudding, the warm gingerbread tart or a blondie layered with grape jelly and topped with peanut butter marshmallow ice cream.