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b.o.s.

[Little Tokyo]

“No beef left behind” could be the motto for this upscale yakiniku joint in Little Tokyo’s Honda Plaza. Chef David Bartnes doesn’t shy from odder cuts of cow like heart and tendon, transforming them into dishes inspired by his cooking stints throughout the Pacific Rim. Roasted bone marrow is sprinkled with furikake, Thai beef tataki is paired with tart papaya salad, and a soothing tripe-kimchi stew is dotted with scallion gnocchi. Adventurous eaters can take delight in the omakase, a five-course journey that might feature loco moco risotto. Sit near the open kitchen with a glass of barley shochu; you’ll need it when staring down a plate of tempura-fried calf’s brain. » 424 E. 2nd St., 213-700-7834 or bos-la.com.