Fashion week can tempt even the most staid gentlemen into costuminess, so it’s worth a nod when someone (a designer, no less) manages to pull off something interesting and stay within the bounds of normal human decorum. And if there’s a double-breasted blazer involved, all the better.

The gentleman designer in question is Timo Weiland—on his second trip into MOTHhood—and the jacket is a heathered 80s-inspired wonder teetering between notch and peak lapels. What stops him from teetering into Gecko territory is that casual extra-large check he’s wearing underneath. It’s the basic principle of pattern mixing, pushed to extremes: the largest pattern in the book, worn underneath the smallest.

And while leaving it unbuttoned isn’t strictly by the book, pulling off that kind of pattern makes him above the law.

There’s a fine line between advanced layering and looking like a homeless person.

Timo Weiland is walking that line.

On a pure design level, the scarf-and-overcoat is the same thing you see on bankers and senators once December rolls around, but on Timo it seems a little more…adventurous. The semi-floral pattern pushes everything off kilter, into strange haute -formal territory where only fashion designers dare to tread. Depending on the lighting, the look changes from businessman to bag lady—exactly the kind of edge most designers are happy to adopt.

And of course, the shaggy beard and bewildered expression only help to sell it all. Anyone who can stay that aloof on a red carpet can wear whatever they want.