The fragrance offer has become more complex in recent years. Overused, misused, or even rejected… does the term “niche perfumes” still mean anything?

Each week, new “rare” perfume brands are entering the market. At the same time, major brands react and propose alternative collections, more and more expensive and numerous.

Acquired by larger groups and more known to the general public, designers like Annick Goutal, L’Artisan Parfumeur or Atelier Cologne, are they still niche brands?

The very word “niche” is sometimes rejected, by both creators and perfume stores. They prefer to talk about rare or indie fragrances while some French brands prefer “parfums d’auteurs” (author’s perfumes). Marketers opt for “alternative fragrances” or “artisan”, if indeed artisan means something. For Marc Chaya, CEO of Maison Francis Kurkdjian, his brand “is not a niche brand… but a luxury brand”.

Moreover, who can claim to be niche today? Is it a matter of offer, of number of outlets?

Being niche, is it focusing on fragrance rather than on packaging? It’s not even sure. Some rare brands opt for bottles increasingly sophisticated, others unfortunately, for more generic fragrances.

Furthermore, the difference between niche and not niche is not necessarily in the abandon of communication, a key element for traditional fragrance brands. Indeed, some brands such as Byredo and Lutens resort to advertising, while others partnered with celebrities (Juliette Has a Gun, Etat Libre d’Orange…)

Some will say this is the offer that is decisive. But creating a leather fragrance, an iris soliflora or a oud, is it still the preserve of alternative brands? What about Prada’s Infusions (whose precursor Infusion d’Iris resulted in a collection)? What about Hermes Colognes or Yves Rocher Secrets d’Essences?

What a surprising shift for traditional brands to choose fragrance names inspired by raw materials… while niche brands are increasingly opting for conceptual names!

Moreover, from one country to another, the same brand may be perceived as selective or niche. And what about the alternative brands that are less luxurious or cheaper than the selective ones? Do they have a future?

In an alternative fragrance market with a strong growth potential -yet still little quantifiable, it’s difficult to navigate.