Having received my CT60e, I decided I wanted to keep my Falcon with an internal Power Supply Unit. So I have designed a 3D printable Stainless Steel (heat tolerant to over 800 degrees C.) PSU Mount. For this to work a new PSU will be located where the current HDD mount is, but don't worry I have a plan for that too. This mount is designed to work with an international PSU I found too far far away, lol.

mikro wrote:I'm sorry I don't get it. What PSU? The original one, used for powering 030 Falcon? Why would you do that, that doesn't make any sense.

On the other hand PicoPSU is held by the CT60 so... ?

My mount will allow a new PSU to power the Falcon and CT60e internally, A Pico is not a PSU, it is an 12 volt ATX adapter that mounts to the CT60e and requires an external PSU, and by removing the stock Falcon PSU for the CT60e, it leaves the Falcon with no power switch or socket. My solution will keep the original power switch and socket. When installed, a Falcon with my system will look and operate as if nothing has ever happened, and you will not be left with messy power brick to deal with.

Are you ready to 'PlayOne', and new 5200 and Jaguar controller coming soon.

Here is a render of a new slimline Power Socket and switch mount that is designed to work with my new internal PSU Mount. This version has a clip in socket and will bring the socket close to being flush with the back of the Falcon case, all whilst still fitting behind the CT60e and other accelerators.

The image with the blue board (simulated CT60e) is showing the clearance between the CT60e and the new mount. (The transparent rectangle is just used as a spacer between the Falcon PCB and CT60e)

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Are you ready to 'PlayOne', and new 5200 and Jaguar controller coming soon.

Here is another quick update for the Power / Switch 3D model. I have now made it so the mount will take an original screw in socket, or a clip in one. I have also added supports for the back of the CT60e as it is normally flimsy. So with the help with a little tape or felt on top of them to protect the PCB, a CT60e should be much sturdier. I will hopefully be ordering test prints of these in the next day or so.

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Are you ready to 'PlayOne', and new 5200 and Jaguar controller coming soon.

This looks really nice. Just wondering -- how to you plan to solve the 030/060 switch? Right now, the most comfortable solution is to use the hole for the original switch and put everything there (atx on/off, 030/060, pico psu power). Then the mains connector can be used to Svethlana ethernet and SuperVidel DVI output for instance.

mikro wrote:This looks really nice. Just wondering -- how to you plan to solve the 030/060 switch? Right now, the most comfortable solution is to use the hole for the original switch and put everything there (atx on/off, 030/060, pico psu power). Then the mains connector can be used to Svethlana ethernet and SuperVidel DVI output for instance.

Hi Mikro,

Well I just did another little alteration, and this time I have now added support for a vertical IEC 320 - C8 polarized 2 pin socket, like used on the PlayStation and radios. One down side is it will have no ground; the second 'BIG' down side is if someone puts a C7 non polarized lead into the the socket it will kill the PSU, possibly the Falcon and, and could start a fire. The C8 Polarized socket is rated at 7 amps at 120 volts, 2.5 amps at 240 volts (This should be more than enough for what we need, but I want to double check though.)

On a plus side, next to the socket, that will leave room about 15mm wide by 22 tall for switches and other fun stuff, all with no hacking to a Falcon case. I also have other plans to get out of the Falcon case too.

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Are you ready to 'PlayOne', and new 5200 and Jaguar controller coming soon.

Well I think this is the final design for the Power / Switch mount. It keeps compatibility with a stock Falcon Switch and Socket, but I changed support from a C8 polarized socket to a 3 pin C6. This is still a compact connector, but it includes ground and will prevent a wrong power cable from being inserted. It is also an international standard so power leads should be available everywhere.

If a C6 socket is installed, this should allow about 12mm W x 22 mm H for toggle switches 30 / 60 etc. Note a Power button will not be needed as an original switch will be in place, and you would not require a reset switch either as the stock Falcon works fine.

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Are you ready to 'PlayOne', and new 5200 and Jaguar controller coming soon.

Heck, I'm wondering what model 3D printer used. Before retirement, worked with plastic material for guidance system mockups. Haven't keep up on tech, other than metal spray, had no idea of stainless being used as a material. Quick search, small units run about $3.5k, plus expensive replenishes. Kind of like better off to have your photo quality prints done at Walgreens.Still, would consume retirement hours. Only draw back, looks like material is similar to 400 stainless, ok for brackets structure wise, does not have the corrosion properties as 300 series, and can be/become low value magnetic.Maybe the commercial grades NASA used is superior, would hope so:) Prolly cost a bit. That said, gimmie 4!

OK this is nice, and a good solution to the ugly CT60... power supply hangover. Keep your ideas coming, I like your work, already have one of your Skunkboard casings which again are well thought out and well designed!

10p6 wrote:My solution will keep the original power switch and socket. When installed, a Falcon with my system will look and operate as if nothing has ever happened, and you will not be left with messy power brick to deal with.

How do you power on the CT60? Just powering on the PSU will not work, you need to press (or simulate a press) the CT60's "power on" button too.

alexh wrote:I wonder if someone could implement something similar to the switchless Kickstart/TOS switchers?

This can be done by using a microcontroller to snoop on the keyboard->Falcon communication. When a specific keypress combination occurs (e.g. Alt+Shift+Undo), toggle the CPU mode and issue a reset. I have done something similar on my MonSTer-equipped machines to switch TOS from the keyboard.

10p6 wrote:Well I think this is the final design for the Power / Switch mount.

If you want to share an .STL (or source CAD format) I would be very interested in printing this myself. Even though I use a pico there's definitely a need for something to support the back end of the CT60e, and building on top of your design here would make it easier to add the different switches etc I need anyway.

alexh wrote:My CT60e is on it's way and I too would like a good solution to an internal PSU.

I second that, would be nice for a nice neat solution with no hole left as per PicoPSU, as mentioned in this design. I like the idea of this!The whole neat and tidy PSU is an after thought presently, with everybody trying to come up with a way to make as neat as possible for themselves. I feel there is a need for something like this. Is this idea still likely?