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Originally posted by SpdElemts this may been asked already but i dont feel like searching fot it so bare wit me. Can the rt on/off assem fit in the Emag valve and shoot properly? The emag valve is not going to be used in the emag.

thanks

yes, b/c an rt valve is an rt valve, and a ULT will work in any rt valve

i got a question! will you get enough "reactiveness" for you to sweetspot on about an output of 800 psi?

i have a major problem

I just bought my ULT with my X-valve. When i put in the ULT it doesnt do anything. I can push the trigger all the way in but it doesnt do anything. Its not charging or anything. When i put the old on/off in it works fine. No leaks or anything. it works great without the ULT. I have a preset tank, a PMI 68/45, its full. i tried all the shims, 1 shim, no shims, everything. please help, this thing sucks. Very disappointed.

Got mine yesterday, it works good. But I have a few problems w/ it. 1st: the bolt sticks forward just slightly sometimes(no venting).2nd: should I have take the smaller white oring out w/ the old on/off. I did and it has no leaks i couldn't get enough shims in with that oring on. i believe i have 3 ULT shims. I also have lvl 10. 3rd: what is a good way to keep fomies in. The cost is adding up. I use super glue.

Still short-stroking but i can get past that. It's in a minimag AIR valve. a new one if that makes a difference.

There shouldn't be any other o-rings in the on/off other than the ones that are held in on the ULT assembly. The one at the base of the on/off, the one in the top that the pin seals on and the black one inside the two pieces.

Bolt stick with ULT is usually a result of not enough shims or it not being broke in enough.

My ULT is acting up again. It has a small leak holding pressure against the bolt. So that is why it sticks. It doesnt stick so much anymore but it is shortstroking when it shouldn't. I cycle it fully and it short strokes every other shot because of the leak. I have tried all the shims, no shims, everything. The gun won't function w/ less than 2 in it. i have 3 now. 4 makes no difference. should I have ALL ULT and ALL lvl 10 I have left in. I believe that would be 8 shims.

Ok Jared I have a minimag AIR valve, ULT, and Lvl 10 too... and everything works with me.

Here's what I did.. I would have to check, but I believe I have 2 Lvl 10 shims in the Lvl 10 setup (check your carrier size and be sure that its not leaking there). I have 4 ULT shims and 2 Lvl 10 shims in the ULT valve, and everything else is properly oiled and all. Try that setup if you havent already and see what happens...be sure to oil everything REALLY ridiculously in that ULT.

What I've noticed (by the way I have a preset 850 too) with my ULT in this valve and with my air tanks is that the pin DOES come out slowly. The thing is, I have so many shims in that it doesnt matter--the pin shoots out far enough only because I have put effectively 8 ULT shims in. Putting extra shims in means shortening the essential length of the on/off pin, meaning it needs to return less distance each time, thus less short stroking. With no shims in, you have absolutely no hope of that pin returning to its initial position--the gun cant handle pushing it for that long of a time. If we were running an RT, it would push on that pin until it went back to its normal position...AIR valves dont do this.

With your setup (even 4 ULT shims) you will STILL encounter this problem. So to counter this, make sure you have that pin oiled very very very well, make sure it slides in and out easily and freely, and put 4 ULT shims in and 2 Lvl 10 shims...if you find that its working better but not enough..put more in..just also make sure that the on/off assembly is screwed in tightly.

Holy Shaith. I had a classic 68. then i got a x-valve and ult. intalled them at the same time and tried it out, my gun was acting out of breath, i'd get 1 or 2 shots off full power then it would just puff.

i messed with my x forever to no avail, then i thought it might be ult so i put in the regular on/off and it worked kinda well, so i went lookin for a ult forum found this, and read some then realized i prolly need more shims in the ult and BAM!!@@#!@%#%!#%!#$^ it works like a charm, my gun is beast now! woot. 5 shims works great for me. GG ULT thread

Ok guys my gun will not even shoot now...it shoots once if I smack it with the palm of my hand on the back of the gun.I had six shims and there was way to much response, I have 5 shims in it now and it does not shoot. Its like the trigger rod does not have enough pressure or something, to make things worse a guy at my field said he could adjust the trigger rod and make it work so he did but it did not work so now that maybe messed up too.....please help.
I'm running a me'lee 68ci. 3000 and I have the stock single trigger frame on.

Hey I just had my ULT cleaned up and tuned by my local pro shop. I decided to take her for a spin and video it. Here is a link to the video: CLICK HERE FOR MY ULT VIDEO

That's my collection site, but just scroll down and you'll see the links for the video under my ULE Mag. I think the ULT is sweet, but it's way to fast for me. I'm looking to trade it for a stock On/Off for my X-valve and like $30. Also does anyone know if a classic on/off will work in a X-valve?

I just have a few questions, I will be getting my RT mag from AGD in a few days with everything installed and tested by them, everything should work correctly, but if the ULT isn't how I would like it then I would probably have to add shims, right? If I am getting the Mag with the UTL already installed by them how many will be on the ULT and how many extras will I get, is it the same 2 on the ULT and 3 extras like when you get the ULT kit?

Well, assuming that they actually tune and test it, Then there is no telling how many shims they may have on it. It seems that every mag is just a little different and just requires a little patience and some air to tune. Remember if you have level 10 shims, they are exactly double the thickness of one ULT and can be used in their place. Do you have an adjustable reg on your tank?

Well, Alot of your reactivity actually depends on your tank. Higher pressures often increase your reactivity.
A ule trigger mod actually reduces your reactivity while making the trigger lighter. You have to just juggle the variables to find a set up that works for your marker.
If your marker is set up and shooting, I would add ule shims until it went into run away and then back off one shim. I would then start turning the input pressure up to see if I could get better reactivity. I actually got mine to were the tension in my finger would allow the trigger to bounce. I got some VERY respectable rates of fire from that.

I have set up my mini mag just as "drx975" described and it is working great.
Im using a standard Minimag AIR valve, with a 6 hole mod in the back.
850 PSI preset.
LX bolt with 2 shims & medium spring.
ULT with 4 standard shims & 2 LX shims.
I found that is is easier to short stroke if you are not use to the trigger, but the lightness of the trigger pull is fantastic.

cheers

Ive allso had reports from friends using a standard valve with a hyperframe and the ULT works really well in the system.

first off, the shims. they go inbetween the double o-rings and the on/off assembly? I'm assuming thier job is to keep the pin from going in too far, thus keeping the recharge rate as high as possible, without "runaway" or leaking.
so what they really do is lower the on/off assembly, which means the back of the sear hits the bottom of the on/off keeping the sear from pushing the pin in to far. if so, isn't the hardened steel sear hitting the bottom of the brass on/off everytime you pull the trigger?

as for the new pin:
I take it it has a new smaller diameter head and a smaller reduced diameter shaft? if so, what are the new measurements?
I know the original RT pin is about .117" at the head and reduced shaft is about .078" in diameter.

if anybody could answer these question I would definitely appreciate it.

I'm working on an on/off design that would produce the same light trigger pull for a standard valve, but not adversely effect the recharge rate.

The ULT on/off screws into two pieces (on/off top and bottom) the shims go in between where it screws together. the hardened steel sear touches the hole in your body and not the on/off so there is no harm there.
What AGD did with this on/off is shave mass off so the air would have "less to grab and push down", that's the only way I can explain it. The head is just big enough to shut off air from the top and I don't know the measurements. It would be impossible to make one better. If it was they would have. You might be able to make one lighter but the reactivity would be killed, and you might also be able to make one more reactive but heavier. But not both, to my knowledge anyway.

the shims make the on/off assembly longer. no matter where you put them. on top or in the middle. this means you using the bottom of the on off as a type of sear stop. to keep it from pushing the pin in farther than you want.

the back of the sear has a "nub" that sticks up and that is the part that pushes the on/off pin in. this "nub" can and does go through the hole in the body. if you trigger pull allows it, it will go all the way up and "top out" on the bottom of the on/off assembly.

if you read my post you will see that I understand what they did to make the trigger pull lighter. less dia on the top of the pin means less of a force factor, and less force created by the applied psi. now if the smaller bottom part of the pin has also been reduced from the original RT design(.072" actually, not .078") this means the initial part of a trigger pull will be very light.

impossible to make one better? I'm not trying to. like I said, this ULT is not recommended for the standard or classic valve. the reason being the pressure on top of the on/off is not enough to make the pin reset the sear completely everytime and this can cause bolt and sear wear problems along with just plain not functioning properly.

so like I said, I'm looking to design a version that would help the STANDARD valve. a lighter trigger pull without sacrificing too much on the recharge rate. I don't care about reactivity.
this is why I'm looking for the measurements of the ULT pin. somebody, anybody with a ULT and some calipers.
I want to know what to start with.