The prime will be primarily used for landscapes. With previous cameras, my technique (in Manual with tripod, grad nd filters, polariser, remote release etc) was to spot focus at the hyperfocal point, lock the focus and then recompose the shot, sort out the filters, sort out the exposure then shoot. So if I follow the same on the D600 with the 28mm prime, I will be looking at spot focusing at 11ft at f8 or just under 8ft at f11.

You are using the "old standard" COC of 30um, which is only appropriate for small prints. To take advantage of the detail capability of the D600, use a COC of about 11um. That moves the 28mm f/11 hyperfocal distance out to 22 ft, and at f/8 it's at 29 ft.

Marianne, thanks for the very useful info. I think that's now a 10-zero vote for live view focus.

Your comments on COC (is that circle of confusion?) are well taken (and the link that Primeshooter posted). I hadn't realised the world had changed. My experience has been with 4/3rd Oly kit with the biggest prints to A3 where the standard tables have always given good results. I'm not sure what the 30um and 11um mean - can you elucidate? Also where can I find a reference to find a full table of new values (or do I just multiple the old ones by 30/11?).

Once the weather warms up here, I will get out and try the new values.

...and in response to Primeshooter. Thanks for posting the article. Interesting comment at the end about not using hyperfocal points - ie the eye does not expect everything to be in focus - so dont do it. It also suggests slightly blurring the infinity point if the feature on the horizon is recognisable. Any views on this anyone? I've always been told to get everything into focus (as a general rule). I need to open my eyes more.