I followed Tom's recommendation in the thread I started the other day. That worked great, Tom. Thanks!

Now, the blade came out of my Fr3aK yesterday. It just came loose and slipped right out of the hole. Here is the question: Should I grind off the old CF patch around the blade hole and install new or am I OK to just epoxy the peg back in the same hole? It seems to me, I'd want a new patch with a new fillet of CF and epoxy but I want a back up of that opinion before I go to that much effort.

Usually after flying awhile the epoxy on my blade will break free and I expect that to happen. A bit of Regular CA around the peg is then applied and that fix ,more often than not, is permanent. Seems the CA sticks to the blade better than the 15 minute Epoxy Splooge mixture.

If your new blade is similar to the size of the old one, I would just epoxy/splooge it in with a tiny bit of a fillet on the top and bottom, then expect it to break loose at some time, then CA it in for the final fix.

I have one of Oleg's blades in mine, and it kept loosening when it was just glued in with a carbon patch. I had removed some of the foam between the skins around the blade hole, and filled with epoxy and milled glass fibers. Several times it would break loose after a couple days flying, and I had to CA in place again. I ended up adding a fillet of epoxy thickened with glass fibers and cabosil, on the top and bottom. I think I used the end of a popsicle stick to shape the fillet, and carefully remove the excess from the carbon patch with a paper towel. Since then, the blade's been solid.

I just sanded up the blade and epoxied it back into the hole where it was. It feels as strong as the original if not better. I think the original installation was done with CA. That's the way it looked. I used Pacer Z-Poxy laminating resin and FWIW, it was a still a tight fit in the hole.

I don't know if this applies to Z-Poxy, but some laminating epoxies don't stick as hard to well cured composites as some adhesive type epoxies do. Not sure if this is the best solution, but lately I've been smearing a bit of the adhesive type onto old laminates before putting glop made with laminating epoxy on top of it.

I second the "sand it in the area you bond it" discussion, but with throwing pegs always use lighter grit paper and sand lengthwise. Heavy sandpaper or crossing the unicarbon "grain" can lead to failure of the blade.

It's probably a really good idea at some point to use isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly clean off the peg and the inside of the hole. Maybe use pipe cleaners or yarn for the hole? Not just because of mold release. It seems likely that a mixture of sunscreen and sweat has seeped in as well.

I once laminated some precured carbon onto some wood spars using a good quality laminating resin. (Custom mix from a boat builder I know.) They peeled off quite easily, and the epoxy mostly came off of the carbon. I did a sample with 30 minute epoxy and they stuck tenaciously. For the really picky, 3M makes some high quality epoxy that comes in a double tube for electronics purposes. I'm going to try that next. Shelf life isn't the greatest, though, as I recall.

Two of the three mold releases I use regularly are not soluble in alcohol. One is soluble in water. Depending on who / how the peg was made, very light wet sanding may be the only way to positively remove it.