When in drive but not moving the idle surges from 400/500 to 1000 rpm and the truck shakes very hard with each surge. The battery needle also moves with the surging. Seriously very annoying. When I stop at a light I have to put the truck in neutral.

When driving from a cold start, the engine pops a few times as I am giving it gas and the truck doesn't respond well at all to the pedal. This is every morning for the last few days when I use the truck. Major PIA

Once I floor the pedal (WOT), it responds much better but I know there is a loss of power.

Check engine light does comes on.

Here are the OBD I codes:

172 10 565

172: HEGO - HO2S - Sensor Fualt Lean

565: Canister Purge Solenoid Circuit Fault

I just replaced the O2 sensor three months ago with a Bosch one I bought from Summit Racing so I don't think it can be the O2 sensor.

Forgot to mention that the Canister Purge Solenoid was removed a long time ago. The code comes up if I dont have the chip in. Yes, the chip is out of the truck as well. Its been out for a few months. These issues started recenty though.

I want to pull the cam but really don't want to bother with the work involved at this point. If I do decide to pull the cam, I think it will be time to stroke the block. I may just buy a seasoned 302 block from Summit Racing and a pre-balanced 331 stroker kit and then do the build myself.

At that point I would have a block with a nice bottom end and then I can just pull my current block out, swap out the manifold etc. and drop in the rebuilt block... I think that is the smart way to go.

YOU BETTER DO ALOT OF HOME WORK ....
I will say this in your research you will find a few people that will talk about a thing called the WALK meaning bearing cap walk if you twist it enough for long enough the bearing caps will MOVE . Yes you can take measures to keep it from doing it REV limit is the biggest . I have 3 people that bring strokers back around 25.000 miles to freshen up the bottom end they have rev limits set at 6000 rpm ..

What you have is a good set up i think it just needs the proper tweeks

yes carb the 302, thats what they like/want plus ya can get rid of alot of BS wiring
all you'll need is the 6A wiring, lights & gauges

Edelbrock EDL-1406 600CFM - electric choke, all linkage to include Ford kick down linkage for auto trans
and a EDL-1487 Calibration kit for the 1406 (jets, metering rods, step-up springs, retaining springs)
currently set up for performance
all in new condition for $200 Christmas special $150.00

this is the one that was in the '77's 331

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