A dose of "old-fashioned goodness" , this circa-1908 Downtown "classic" "feels like a trip back in time" with "fair" French dips made with beef and lamb served in an "atmospheric" setting; critics claim it's "expensive" and "used to be better" , so its biggest asset may be the hidden speakeasy in back – The Varnish – known for its crafty mixologists, "designer" cocktails and "hipster" crowd.