Flip-Up (Fold-Down) Table Saw Out-Feed Table

I picked up a new table saw the other day (Ridgid R4512) and knew the first thing I wanted to add was this out-feed table. I am restricted on space (two car garage but my wife’s only request is that she’s able to park in it at night) and therefore make all of my stands/benches mobile and collapsable if possible.

I wanted it to be as big as possible (when flipped up), as compact as possible (when flipped down), and as lightweight as possible to reduce the strain on the table saw stand and for ease of mobility. With that in mind, the braces/mounts attached to the table saw are standard 2×4’s and a 2×6 at the pivot point, the table frame is cedar 2×3’s and the top is 1/2” MDF. I am strictly using it as an out-feed (won’t be hammering, etc. on it) and therefore went with the aforementioned structure. It is as wide as the factor table-top (40”) and is 30” long.

The other key thing I wanted to include was adjustability. At the joints of the “hinge-leg” and at the contact point of the hinge-leg when it’s in the up position, I added screws (matched up head-to-head) that could be adjusted to increase/decrease the spacing/gap to be able to adjust accordingly after it was completely assembled. I attached the top of the hinged-leg in such a way that it could be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the shim to raise or lower the back edge. I also purposefully built the table to be a consistent 1/8” lower than the table saw top so that I could shim it up for a perfectly flat surface in relation to the table saw top. I used piano hinges for the main hinge and the hinge-leg and I used 6 bolts to attach the 2×4’s to the table saw (4 in the legs and 2 in the corners of the upper structure).

If you have any questions, please let me know! I looked at several similar tables when building this one. I am very happy with it but I do have a few things I would do differently if I built another one… First, I would probably mount it differently to the actual saw. I would probably use the bolts that attach the steel extension tables to the cast-iron top to attach the out-feed table by adding a thin piece of metal/wood between the top and the extensions. There are also holes on the outer edges of the steel extension tables that I didn’t utilize but probably could have. Between these two mounting possibilities, I probably wouldn’t have had to drill holes into the legs. Regardless, this wouldn’t change the final product much and I’m not that upset not doing. Another thing I would change is to incorporate the “handle” into the hinged-leg better. It was more of an afterthought that I realized I needed after it was assembled. Lastly, I would consider doing something different for the hinge-leg. I would consider getting a collapsable shelf bracket (sold by Rockler) or another type of bracket to replace my constructed leg (I think latter braces would work perfectly…). Regardless, I am very happy with it! Let me know if you have any questions or advice. I am contemplating sealing/painting the entire structure and top… haven’t decided yet.