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EDMONTON - They say it’s a dying art, the hand-written letter. Choosing the paper, contemplating the sentiment, and committing it with ink. It takes time and effort. It’s slow communication — a fading notion in our busy lives that demand rapid-fire emails and 15-minute meals.

In cooking, consider the prized and pricey beef tenderloin or porterhouse cuts the equivalent of email correspondence — fast and easy, yet uninspiring.

“It’s only customer perception that these are a higher quality of meat because they’re naturally tender and, therefore, easier to cook,” says Maynard Kolskog, an instructor at NAIT’s culinary arts program. In our frantic schedules, quick to prepare cuts fetch a premium.

“But many chefs would say filet mignon is bereft of flavour,” says Kolskog. “They want intense flavour, and they feel they get that from these so-called cheaper cuts — the chuck, the brisket, shank meat, or short ribs.”

These are tougher cuts of overworked locomotive muscles from the animal’s front quarter, and come with more connective tissue and fat.

As a general rule of thumb, the lesser the cut of meat, the longer it needs to cook. Time equals flavour. And love. Grilling a steak isn’t nearly as romantic as coming home to the aroma — and thoughtfulness — of a slow-cooked meal. It’s like that tiny burst of joy, the smile on the inside, when you find a hand-addressed envelope amid the dreary bills in your mailbox.

So what’s the best way to cook these perceived cheaper cuts? Low and slow, advises Kolskog. Braising or stewing — slow-cooking meat at a low temperature in liquid — transforms it into juicy, tender bites, with a robust sauce to boot.

Beef chuck, cut from the upper shoulder of the animal, is ideal for pot roasts and braised dishes, says Kolskog, because “it has loads of flavour and just the right amount of fat. If you cube it, it’s perfect for beef bourguignon,” a classic French beef and red wine stew.

Brisket, another under-appreciated cut, comes from the lower chest of the animal. It’s a tough, well-used muscle, often turned into corned beef. You can grind it for hamburger, says Kolskog, “but it’s almost a waste. Some of the braised dishes you can do with it are great.

“In the hands of someone who’s going to take the time and care to prepare it, you’ll have a better, more luxurious eating experience with a cheaper cut of beef.”

Don’t get put off by the long cooking process. The preparation is surprisingly quick and easy. A kind of “set it and forget it” approach.

You typically start by searing the meat to develop its flavour. “That’s the caramelization of the meat, and the primary flavour development technique, says Kolskog. “People think it’s to seal in the juice, but that’s not the case.”

This browning is called the Maillard Reaction. That is, the surface amino acids and sugars combine and change colour, for all you chemical reaction enthusiasts.

Your meat must be seasoned properly, he adds, because the sauce can’t develop the flavours all on its own. Next, add sautéed mirepoix, a classic trio of chopped onions, celery and carrots. Then pour in the liquid — stock or water, and some sort of acid like red wine, beer or a soft drink, to help break down the meat’s connective tissue. Tomatoes, either canned or in paste form, add body, and herbs round out the flavours.

All in one cosy pot, let it simmer (in the oven, on the stovetop or in a crockpot) until they become best friends. Skim the fat, strain the sauce and reduce or thicken it, and you’ll be the subject of unending adoration.

If you want more exotic flavours, this same budget-friendly technique has been used in ethnic cookery for centuries: in hearty, luscious Indian curries, Moroccan tagines, and Persian koresht, meat stewed with nuts, fruit or herbs and served with rice. As a bonus, you often have leftovers that taste even better the next day. And unlike a piece of Chateaubriand steak, these meals freeze very well.

So yes, you do have to be patient, but perhaps that’s the best (and romantic) part. The wait makes it a meal you want to relish. To pour a glass of wine, light a few candles, and savour its rich flavours just as you would re-read that hand-written letter. Not to be deleted or forgotten.

Here follow a number of recipes created by Chef Kolskog.

Root Beer Braised Beef Ribs

Serves 4

2 pounds (1 kg) beef short ribs (boneless or regular)

4 cups (1 L) root beer

2 cups (500 mL) veal or beef stock

3-1/2 ounces (100 g) carrots rough chopped

7 ounces (200 g) onion rough chopped

2 ounces (50 g) celery rough chopped

1/3 ounce (10 g) garlic rough chopped

Salt and pepper

Canola oil for frying

3-1/2 ounces (100 g) butter for the sauce, cut into small pieces

Method: Sear beef ribs in hot canola oil, seasoning a couple of times during the process with salt and pepper. Remove the ribs and in the same pan sauté the onions, celery, garlic and carrots until lightly browned. Deglaze the pan with veal stock and add it to the root beer. Place the ribs in a shallow roasting pan and pour the cooking liquid along with the vegetables over the ribs. Do not immerse the ribs totally in the liquid, they should just cover them. Cover the pan with either a tight fitting lid or foil and braise in a 300 F oven for about 3 hours or fork tender. Keep the ribs warm and strain the cooking liquid, discarding the vegetables. Reduce the liquid over medium heat to half its volume, check the seasoning and quickly whisk in the butter a little at a time being sure not to simmer it. Serve immediately with the sauce.

Potato Pavé

Serves 6

5 Idaho potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 sweet potato, peeled and thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 cup (250 mL) 35% cream

3-1/2 ounces (100 grams) melted butter

Salt and pepper

Method: Toss the potatoes and sweet potato with the cream and shingle into a 2-inch buttered hotel pan, alternating potatoes and sweet potato. Salt and pepper each layer and lightly layer with sliced onions. Cover the pan with a layer of silicon paper and cover with aluminum foil. Place another pan on top to weigh it down and bake in the convection oven at 350 F for 1-1/2 hours.

Tina Faiz is an independent journalist. She has a regular food column on CBC Radio's Alberta at Noon, and was one of six judges for Avenue Magazine's 2013 Best Restaurants list. Her love of fine stationery is second to her love of food. Follow her on Twitter at twitter.com/Tina_Faiz.

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