First off...the stock shaft blows. We all know it. But, I will say the stock high-speed 6-ball CV does a great job at cancelling vibes...although anything with a rubber boot is eventually going to fail. Depending on how often you want to perform this task (its simple and cheap)...I would recommend an authentic AAM replacement CV (not Dorman). These run $130 compared to the $60 Dorman unit. IMO, worth the extra dough. If you are running a solid front axle, or a Rancho lift...I would recommend an aftermarket shaft with a cardan style CV, due to the extra angle and/or movement. This is where things get interesting.

3R CV: I have built, sold, and ran several 3R cardan jointed shafts for years. I hated them all. This is the same CV that GM full-size trucks used throughout the 70s & 80s. It is big, clunky, and has too much spring pressure. Also for some reason, the center pins seem to burn up quickly. This may be due to the special H3 flange casting (Chinese) that adapts the 3R cardan to the H3's transfer case. Fort Wayne Driveline currently sells a 3R jointed shaft, and you can also buy the Chinese flange and build your own. This casting is made to fit the H3 t-case flange and does not require an adapter. Whatever the case, I have found some better options.

Tatton 1310 CV: Next I tried a custom shaft sourced from Tatton Driveline in Utah. Great price. Fast service. This shaft uses a 1310 CV with a Ford flange. It requires the use of an adapter which I sell through THORparts. While these shafts come with Spicer u-joints, the castings themselves are not Spicer. Initially this shaft worked great but, I slowly started to develop a high speed vibe after about 5000 miles. So I took it apart and found that the center pin was actually broken, causing mis-alignment within the cardan. Also, I noticed that it was assembled with a mix-match of parts, that may have also contributed to its demise. It did have grease so I know it didn't burn up. I honestly think the cheap no-name castings may have played a part in its failure. Regardless I have no idea what would have broken the center pin like this...perhaps it was hammered together when assembled? My local driveline guy says he's never seen this type of break in 40 years of cardan work.
1310 non-CV: About this time I'm getting fed up with my options. I thought I would try a traditional 2-jointed shaft (like the Outfitter Design shaft). I was very reluctant about this even though I have hardly any angle at all on my front shaft. Its very well know that full-time 4WDs need a CV of some sort...Jeep, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, etc. It doesn't matter...full-time 4WD's get vibes at highway speeds, period. That's why the H3 comes with a 6-ball CV from the factory. So I tossed all this aside and built a new shaft using 1310 joints and the same Ford flange (except without the CV), and the same THORparts adapter. Sure enough...it hums at 65mph, just like a I predicted. If the H3 had a 2WD mode and locking hubs, I would not have an issue with this shaft. But, the full-time arrangement needs a CV at 65 mph. Back to the drawing board.

Spicer 1310 CV: After looking again at the Tatton shaft, I did some investigation and found all the Spicer brand parts to build a simlar shaft. Additionally, I found that the Ford H-yoke has these cool little scallops cast into it that allow better access to the mounting bolts. This is one thing that always frustrated me about the H-yokes that Tatton used...it was hard to get to the bolts. I'm still running the same THORparts adapter flange with this shaft. Once I put it all together...I realized THIS IS THE SHAFT I NEED TO BE RUNNING. I bolted it in and TA-DAH!...my rig has never ran smoother. This shaft uses solid (non-serviceable) Spicer u-joints at the cardan, and the center pin is also sealed at the factory...so there are no zirks.

Here's a side-by-side that shows the difference between the H-yokes. The Ford H-yoke has scallops for getting a socket on the mounting bolts. The round H-yoke that Tatton provides, is actually supposed to be used with a different flange yoke that has the bolts threading into it from the backside. So, when used with that flange yoke...the scallops aren't needed. Either H-yoke will work but, since the "hack & tap" uses the Ford flange, it has the mounting bolts installing from the forward side and threading into the t-case flange...so it is meant to be used with this Ford H-yoke. It makes bolt access a breeze...

Another shot of the Ford H-yoke showing what I'm talking about...

All Spicer parts have their name cast into them...

No-name casting. Not sure if this had to do with the broken pin or not...

Broken center pin inside the 1310 CV. Its broken off the piece on the right. The piece on the left is still okay (although it is not Spicer brand). The white thingy is a plastic piece that is used to hold the needles in place. It gets removed when you assembly the CV...

Terminology: Cardan joints consist of three castings. The flange yoke. The H-yoke. The CV yoke. On the Tatton shaft, the broken piece was part of the CV yoke, which unfortunately was welded to the shaft tube. So I had to cut it apart and weld on a new one to fix it. The H-yoke and the Flange yoke were not damaged but, I went with Spicer brand parts, and the scalloped Ford type H-yoke since I had it all apart.

Driveshafts are not rocket science. And there are lots of different ways to skin this cat. Through trial and error, I have finally found the right parts to give me the performance I am wanting on and off road. I would recommend that if anyone is looking for a front shaft, they should either buy the parts themselves and take them to a reputable driveline shop for assembly...or at least make sure the shop is using the parts you specify. I'm not throwing anybody under the bus here. I'm simply reporting my findings. From now on...I will run ONLY Spicer brand parts. Spicer parts are more expensive, and you are not going to get an assembled shaft for $250. I will update this thread with the Spicer part numbers I used.

UPDATE....
Spicer sells many pre-assembled cardan joints but not this one. You must buy them separately. Part numbers and links below...

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]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010fanugyhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13063-Tire-carrierHummer H3 - Broken Leaf Springhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13060-Hummer-H3-Broken-Leaf-Spring&goto=newpost
Thu, 15 Mar 2018 09:42:08 GMTHi guys, since two years I'm having a issue with my two leaf springs (left and right).
I mean, a 3" of the leaf is missing and the broken leaves are in the same position, on the front side and close to the leaf spring mount plate.

This is the right side:

And this is the left side:

My H3 is original, the only thing is missing is the stabilizer bar due to the LPG tank.
Is it possible that without the stabilizer bar the two leaf springs are exposed to mechanical stresses until to break in the same position ?
Because this is weird.
Has anyone ever experienced this problem ?
Thanks in advance ;)

Roberto

Attached Images

]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010RobyH3http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13060-Hummer-H3-Broken-Leaf-SpringMost common broken partshttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13058-Most-common-broken-parts&goto=newpost
Thu, 15 Mar 2018 02:47:26 GMTI was wondering what parts everyone tends to break to determine what spares to carry as well as things to check before and after a trip.
I want...I was wondering what parts everyone tends to break to determine what spares to carry as well as things to check before and after a trip.

I want this to be sort of a poll, so just list out everything you've broken and/or had to repair on your H3 over the years. I'm not counting vehicle crashes, just regular wear as well as normal abuse from offroading (not stupid stuff though, if you were bouncing and spinning your tires, you're going to break stuff you normally wouldn't.).

I don't think everyone needs to go into detail as to why something broke (you can if you want), but just a concise list would be great and possibly if you know what mileage your had to replace them at would probably be helpful as well.

Our rigs at best are 8 years old now, and at worst 12 years old, so I think we should be able to get a good list here.

Here are the common parts I already know about (but please still list them so that we can get a count):

I can add a pic in the morning
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010classic87http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13052-How-to-adjust-Drivers-door-gapUpper control armshttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13050-Upper-control-arms&goto=newpost
Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:08:23 GMTAre you using OEM upper control arms? Moog or what manufacturer. If different please post a link that works so I can purchase. 2008 AlphaAre you using OEM upper control arms? Moog or what manufacturer. If different please post a link that works so I can purchase. 2008 Alpha
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Hummin alonghttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13050-Upper-control-armsHalf Shaft disassembly/Install, Tutorial?http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13047-Half-Shaft-disassembly-Install-Tutorial&goto=newpost
Fri, 09 Mar 2018 19:38:00 GMTI thought there was one here....can't find it? Got my half shaft removed, but can't get new Cardone shaft back in. Maybe have to separate lower control arm? Everything else is, that's all there is left LOL.
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010poncho1965http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13047-Half-Shaft-disassembly-Install-TutorialH3T Thorparts H3T rear bumpershttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13044-Thorparts-H3T-rear-bumpers&goto=newpost
Thu, 08 Mar 2018 17:48:52 GMT*please correct if posted in the wrong place*
Hey guys.
So I taked to thorparts about doing another run on the rear bumper kits for the H3T. It...*please correct if posted in the wrong place*
Hey guys.
So I taked to thorparts about doing another run on the rear bumper kits for the H3T. It would be a group buy have to place an order for atleast 10 bumpers kits to make it happen as he doesnt produce them anymore. Cost per bumper kit is $600. This kit includes the full rear bumper, new end caps for the plastics (you have to trim them to fit the full size bumper on) and all hardware. D-Ring is in the same location. Shipping is not included but I can get shipping quotes. Gonna say probably between $85-$100 to ship pending where you are. Let me know if you T owners are interested. Takes like 30 days or so to complete the order once the deposits are in. I am paying for the complete order upfront myself to get them made so everything will go through me. Crazy things you do when you want something lol. Lemme know!

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]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-20100sixh3http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13044-Thorparts-H3T-rear-bumpersAnyone have to replace rear swing gate gas strut yet?http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13043-Anyone-have-to-replace-rear-swing-gate-gas-strut-yet&goto=newpost
Thu, 08 Mar 2018 17:41:09 GMTGas strut replacement for rear swing gate...
I've already got the part (Tuff Support 610714) but can't find a simple set of instructions for removal and installation.:emb:
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Happy Hummerhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13043-Anyone-have-to-replace-rear-swing-gate-gas-strut-yetBroken Driveline???http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13040-Broken-Driveline&goto=newpost
Thu, 08 Mar 2018 04:39:45 GMTHello everyone, this is concerning my front driveline.
I replaced both the standard u-joint and 6 ball joint on it and it still has a ton of...Hello everyone, this is concerning my front driveline.

I replaced both the standard u-joint and 6 ball joint on it and it still has a ton of movement. I took the truck to GM and a reputable shop (without telling them it was the driveline) and they both told me that the driveline has too much play and it needs replaced. Is there something else on the driveline that needs replaced/could break? I’m no engineer, but it only looks like a pipe with 2 joints on it. Ideas?

I am pretty sure it is the driveline because I have replaced the T-case with a new one and had the front diff rebuilt. When I take the driveline out I have a very pleasent ride with no clunk/jolt.

I understand some slack is normal, but this clunk/jolt is much louder and harder than it should be.
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Enter Hummerhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13040-Broken-DrivelineWell I did that wrong!!http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13036-Well-I-did-that-wrong!!&goto=newpost
Tue, 06 Mar 2018 19:35:45 GMTProblem......

Seems I just couldn't be happy with the Height of my H3. So I bought a leveling kit. I did not put the little steel extensions on the front. I thought I also adjust the torsion bars correctly. Nope! Front tires are now bald. Brought to get a front end alignment and was told my right upper control arm was bad and rack & pinion bushing is also bad. Being this thing is all wheel drive, and my front tires are now smaller that my rear tires the transmission is probably having issues because the different height from the front to the back tires.

So now my question is, I should take the to two large torsion bar bolts out and start back out at a base line. I see 23.5" is the max from the hub center to the fender lip. Is that the max height? I also need 4 (Plus spare) = 5 Tires. Then I can see what tire would be best for the drive on beach. But I gotta start getting this truck fixed, any help is appreciated.
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Hummin alonghttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13036-Well-I-did-that-wrong!!H3 engine cut-out/stumble/stall problemhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13035-H3-engine-cut-out-stumble-stall-problem&goto=newpost
Tue, 06 Mar 2018 18:47:55 GMTI just picked up an 06 3.5l 5spd with 125K and am having some issues with the engine cutting out/stalling when driving. Most of the time it happens...I just picked up an 06 3.5l 5spd with 125K and am having some issues with the engine cutting out/stalling when driving. Most of the time it happens when I'm taking off from stand still, but sometimes while accelerating too.

1) when standing still, I let out the clutch, the rig starts to move forward, but then it will just cut-out losing rpm's until it dies and leaves me stranded cross traffic.
2) sometimes while I'm accelerating, it will stumble and act like its going to die (like the stand still issue). I can usually rapid pump the throttle and clear it out, but it's a problem.

I know there is a head issue with this rig that wasn't fixed during the warranty period, but i don't think it's whats causing the cutting out/stalling... please correct me if this is wrong thinking!

Any suggestions you could give me to correct the cutting out/stumbling/stalling issue would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance!
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Ethanhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13035-H3-engine-cut-out-stumble-stall-problemP0128; no AC, dead temp gauge - but normal operating tempshttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13034-P0128-no-AC-dead-temp-gauge-but-normal-operating-temps&goto=newpost
Tue, 06 Mar 2018 15:05:01 GMT'08 Alpha. Headed for work yesterday morning, and suddenly got the "AC OFF" message on the DIC and the temperature gauge went dead. Fired up my Torque app, and temps were fine, albeit a bit low (it was in the 40s outside, and I was only a few miles down the road). Watched my Torque app and the engine temps came up to normal (+/- 190), but the temp gauge never started working, nor did the AC. No set codes, but I did have a "Pending" code of P0128.

Got to work and did a few internet searches here and elsewhere; seems to be the general consensus that the temp sender or the thermostat is the likely culprit. Since the actual engine temps came up fine, I'm leaning toward the sender. Cleared the "Pending" code (it never went past "pending", and I never got a CEL), and things went back to normal, so far.

But here's what has me confused. Why was the temp gauge dead when the ECM/BCM was back to clearly reporting normal temps to the Torque app? I don't believe that there are 2 temp senders. My thought is that the sender had an intermittent malfunction, triggering the ECM/BCM to shut down the A/C and the gauge, but then started to work fine again. However, the initial triggered event caused the gauge and A/C to remain disabled, even after the sender was back to normal, until the pending code P0128 was actually cleared. Sound logical? :huh:
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010650Hawkhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13034-P0128-no-AC-dead-temp-gauge-but-normal-operating-tempsGrab Handle For Driver Sidehttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13033-Grab-Handle-For-Driver-Side&goto=newpost
Tue, 06 Mar 2018 14:56:13 GMTIt would be incredibly useful to have a grab handle on the driver side, but I can't seem to find anything about it. Is it even possible to make something custom to grab onto for this area?

Back about 2 yrs. ago we replaced the Transfer Case Motor Encoder (Actuator) part no. 89059551,(89059688),19300596. This was a Remand Transfer Case Motor Encoder (Actuator) from Auto zone.Also seal: 19209788

Having "Service Stabil Trac" warnings coming up yet again (the past two months) we once again changed the Miss's encoder motor on Saturday 03/03/18 with a brand new AC Delco.

Problem, it didn't get rid of the messages... I got a text this morning that the error was back and she was not happy.So, help save a life. Because I think she may actually be thinking of bad, bad things for me.... LOL! :giggle:

I kinda doubt that both would throw the same error.:no:

What other things should I do next to figure out this problem?:emb:
]]>HUMMER H3 2006-2010; H3T 2009-2010Happy Hummerhttp://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13032-What-other-things-should-I-do-when-it-s-not-the-Transfer-Case-Motor-Encoder-actuator