Homeowners who buy new air conditioning systems find themselves faced with a dizzying array of numbers, and they can easily miss crucial information. But with such an important system, one number deserves particular attention: SEER, or the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio.

Since heating and cooling units use more energy than any other system in the home, according to the U.S. Department of Energy, the choice of SEER level makes a big difference when buying a new air conditioner.

What does SEER mean?

SEER measures the ratio of cooling capacity to power input, and the higher the rating, the more efficient the air conditioner. “The higher the SEER rating, the more work you’re getting out of the equipment for the same dollar amount of energy,” says Daniel Armstrong, owner of Armstrong Mechanical Services in Hopewell, Virginia. “The lower the SEER rating, the lower the production.”

SEER ratings have gradually increased in recent years, so a homeowner might find great value in replacing a 10- to 15-year-old system with a more efficient, newer model. Even entry-level models now are much more efficient than standard models of decades past.

Nationwide, EPA standards require all air conditioners manufactured after Jan. 1, 2015, to have a minimum rating of 14 SEER. Previously, all systems manufactured after Jan. 23, 2006, had to achieve at least a 13 SEER rating.

How much do A/C units with higher SEER ratings cost?

Armstrong says conventional air ducted systems can reach up to 21 SEER. Ductless and geothermal systems, which operate more efficiently, can reach into the 30s.

“You’ll need to find a point that meets your wallet limits and expectations,” he says. “There’s a direct correlation between how much you’re willing to spend up front and the SEER rating.”

He says SEER costs vary from contractor to contractor and by region, but a jump from 14 to 15 SEER costs about $1,000 more, 14 to 17 costs about $1,800 more, and a 21 SEER system will probably cost about 40 percent more than a 14 SEER.

How do I find my A/C unit's SEER rating?

The ubiquitous federal EnergyGuide label can help homeowners determine a unit’s SEER rating at a glance. It will be prominently displayed, along with a range comparing it to other units, and the Department of Energy offers online energy efficiency calculators to help homeowners predict how much money they’ll save on energy costs with equipment carrying different SEER ratings.

SEER is an important indicator of energy usage, but not the only one. Check out our guide to important HVAC terms, and no matter how efficient your system is, follow our energy-saving tips to use even less power. A home energy audit can also identify ways to save energy. Your system will last longer due to decreased wear and tear, and you’ll spend less money on electricity every month.

Have you purchased an energy-efficient HVAC unit? Tell us whether you think it was a worthwhile investment in the comments below.

is a veteran Indianapolis writer/photographer and has been a reporter for Angie’s List since 2006, investigating lead paint, electrical work, plumbing, HVAC and the nitty-gritty details of home maintenance.

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Answers

what should you pay. You pay what you can afford. 1100sqft unit requires a min. of a two ton unit. prices range from 2100-2900 depending upon the seers of the system. 13 seer is the min. the law requires and for your situation with 1100 sqft. do not worry about the seers as long as it is to code. the bigger the house the more seers for economy. 1100 sqft is at the border line for a two ton system. It is more important to have your new system balance, there is where you get the economy on your electric bill and gas. Bryant, lenox, ruud and carrier are the brands you should stay with.All have the same basic factory warrantee and will last you longer than you expect as long as you maintain it with regular check ups twice a year once in the spring and then in the fall.

The only thing of importance, is the hvac professional you choose to use. Alot of manufacturer's pieces are built relatively the same, and will last about the same amount of time. The thing that matters most is what you can not compare between companies, and that is the installation. Purchasing a system is not like purchasing a car, where no matter where you buy it, they are all the same. Each installation is different, and usually what you are paying for is the level of expertise, and quality of the installation, the company who will actual give you the warranty, and the comfort that you will receive. Manufacturers warranties disappear every day. They always have a loophole where they can get out of paying, but your local dealer wants to keep you happy for future work, and to protect his reputation in the communiy. Look up 4 year old Nordyne and Goodman warranty problems. Choose the HVAC professional first. It will cost you the least in the long run. I have had to totally redo plenty of installations that were just performed because of an uncomfortable customer, and a system that keeps breaking down. The equipment is only as good as it's installation, and over 70% are not installed correctly.

Yes Jupiter. It depends on the severity of the situation, is the mold encapsulated in the insulation. If yes, than replace [insulation] it with new. Is it on the casing of the heater? If yes, clean it with a mold neutralizing metal cleaner. It's not a matter of finding something or someone to clean or address the existing mold. It's a matter of finding a contractor to rectify what is causing the mold grow. It's coming from excessive moisture in the air-handler unit. I can say with 100% surety you’re dealing with poor airflow and/or incorrect equipment sizing! Either issue will cause excessive icing of the evaporator coil, which leads to excessive condensate water in the system. The condensate will eventually overflow the drain pan leaving stagnant water in the air-handler housing, which leads to mold growth. I would not let any contractor do any kind of temporary repair, add any device like a UV light or air-cleaning product until the aforementioned is corrected. I talk a lot about this in my videos and on my website. It is the result of improper system design from unqualified contractors. There is a reason why some guys cost more than others, and this is one reason why!

I'd rate them equal,or close,as with several other brands. I'd be more concerned about the difference in installation and service down the road. Difficult to determine the difference ,but asking for detailed info about their installation,may convince you to choose one over the other.

The Dept. of Energy states that poor installations can cause a 30% efficiency loss! Plus with Gas their are saftey issues,venting properly etc.,and of couse the need for a "low Level" Carbon Monoxide Alarm.