The Cheeseburger at Remedy Is Your Destiny

I'm sitting at a table on the clangy metal second floor of Remedy, the new upscale homage to a soda fountain on Greenville, and all I can think about is George McFly's scene from Back to the Future. It's the moment -- in the past -- when 1950's McFly walks into the diner, and the love of his life (Lorraine) is sipping a milkshake in a booth. After downing liquid courage in the form of a chocolate milkshake, he walks over to her and reads the note: "I'm your density ... What I mean to say is ... I'm your destiny."

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Sitting high up in the restaurant, I'm looking out over a bunch of people eating pies and crispy things. After throwing a couple of deviled eggs back and sipping on a cocktail, I order the cheeseburger. It's Kansas City Kobe beef on brioche, with American Cheese, sweet onions, shredded lettuce and "traditional dill pickle." It's 13 bucks, and it comes with an order of big, seasoned fries.

This burger sucks you back to a downtown soda fountain, instantly and without permission. It is a scene straight out of another '50s movie: Everything is in black and white except for the burger. The taste is vibrant, especially with that sharp, too-bright American Cheese. Just go ahead and submit to the soda fountain theme. Time travel at Remedy is inevitable. It happens the moment the grill-char crunch of the burger meets the creamy mustard, chopped lettuce and dill pickle. Beautiful burger juice was actually, literally, running down the back of my hands. It's great. Really great.

The bartender asked if I wanted "pink" or no pink. Always pink. Why would you ever say no pink? It was cooked spot-on. It's so hard to find a burger that nails that griddled, charred crunch. (Off-site Kitchen and Knife also execute it well).

It's worth noting: A lot of restaurants in Dallas are doing the $12-$15 burger thing. Sometimes it's worth it, and sometimes it's just pretentious. Some of Dallas' best burgers are under eight bucks. The Remedy burger is worth the 13. The fries are big, puffy and seasoned to remind you of the curly fries you ate as a kid. Can we change the restaurant review star-system to DeLoreans? Remedy earns four DeLoreans for nailing a good burger.

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