Test build definitely changes behavior, the lens doesn't retract at all in Alt mode but unfortunately the script which I use to extend the lens during power on doesn't do its thing although it autoruns.

Anyway, I was shooting this thing today without any issues, thanks for the rec mode startup script, and thanks for the test build but I will stick to the build I used today. It's all good, I can disable autorun if I want to review images without extending the lens and I can autorun the script if I want maximum speed with autoboot card.

Can I replace diskboot.bin only?I don't want to set up everything again in this build, I want to keep my current settings.

Whether that works depends on what build you were already using. Copying all the files from the zip will not reset your settings. You do not need to reformat the card or anything like that.

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Short press and long press already worked, I always use long press for image review and short press for Alt.

You may have done that, but the Canon firmware would see the short press, which is why it would shut off or switch to playback.

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Test build definitely changes behavior, the lens doesn't retract at all in Alt mode but unfortunately the script which I use to extend the lens during power on doesn't do its thing although it autoruns.

Please describe specifically what happens when the script runs, and whether running it manually after camera startup works.

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Anyway, I was shooting this thing today without any issues, thanks for the rec mode startup script, and thanks for the test build but I will stick to the build I used today.

The version you were using has some significant bugs. I'd like to fix them for you and anyone else who owns this camera, but I can only do that if someone is willing to test.

Test build definitely changes behavior, the lens doesn't retract at all in Alt mode but unfortunately the script which I use to extend the lens during power on doesn't do its thing although it autoruns.

You could try the other script I posted? It works on my cameras and does not use key clicks to switch to shooting mode so is likely to work regardless of the changes reyalp is working on.

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I can disable autorun if I want to review images without extending the lens and I can autorun the script if I want maximum speed with autoboot card.

You can abort the execution of a script - including an autorun script - by fully pressing the shutter button. So just press the shutter button when you see the script start. You might want to reset the sleep 1000 back to sleep 2000 to give yourself time to do that on startup.

The version you were using has some significant bugs. I'd like to fix them for you and anyone else who owns this camera, but I can only do that if someone is willing to test.

Of course, I appreciate that! I will get back to you in a couple of months.

A couple of months? Really?

Sorry - I just have to ask this : several of us volunteered three or four hours of our weekend helping you out with different things. And all that you were asked in return was a little testing of the fixes for the problems you discovered. Less than an hour of testing required on your part.

"You're welcome."

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I don't mind the bugs as long as they're predictable... After 7 days of testing, my camera is totally predictable and ready to use

You think it's predictable? What about the random DNG issues described in your original post. How many missed shots that would have been otherwise been good (or great) are you okay with losing?

Canon is not that "cheap", all cameras have hardware limitations which require software limitations. I've already pushed my SD4000 over the limits. There is no "DNG issue", it's a general memory/CPU issue which affects all kinds of shots at slower shutter speeds as the camera needs more power to process images. Fixing this would require rewriting both Canon's original memory management and CHDK, as well as replacing RAM/CPU chips with better ones. It would be an entirely different camera.

SD4000 is a special beast, not a "black sheep" but a "white crow". Cramming real aperture and low noise performance into such tiny well-shaped body obviously required several compromises, which include AF system operation etc. Partitioned cards are not recognized by this cam. Still, the machine is the king of all IXUS cameras. Jog wheel successfully replaces the control ring, which affects pocketability in great extent. Bravo!!!

I did try to run your MF test script, and it's all fail fail fail followed by freeze at third or fourth step. Tried it a couple of times, followed the instructions carefully. I'm not even going to post CSV, it's not worth it. I expected this. Fortunately, there is no damage to the camera. Basically, when you go over the limits, fixing some things breaks other things, and this is exactly what I experienced with the test build. After all, the primary purpose of cameras is shooting pictures, not constant (re)programming.

But I didn't came back for this, I just wanted to post more useful shooting tips for SD4000 users:

If you want maximum sharpness and contrast, shoot around 50mm equiv. wide-open (f4). Lens is ridiculously sharp at 50 f4, contrasty, and it's comparable to my DSLR, particularly if I use masking while sharpening in LR. My copy is a bit softer on the left side, but only at 100%. Could be DoF issue as well. You can print huge from these RAWs, and you can crop a bit as well. Pay attention to ND filter warning, as ND blurs the image. Stop down to f7.1 if there's too much light. You can also hold a high quality ND filter in front of the lens, with built-in ND blocked by CHDK. f7.1 is the overall best aperture for daytime situations. With max auto ISO 800 and f7.1 you don't need to worry about settings, you just go around and shoot being entirely focused on your composition.

Don't forget the REFRESH RAM METHOD as I called it, while shooting at 1/15 or slower. Just push playback button, quickly or slowly, wait for complete image data to load including image size in the lower right corner, and then return to recording mode. There will be no hangs. For 1/15-1/8 do it occasionally, for 1/8-1/4 do it more often, for 1/4 and slower do it after every shot. Removing the battery and turning on the camera in rec mode is also pretty fast with autostart script and sleep 500 at the beginning of the script.

Use NORMAL size focus point in low low light outdoors (indoors as well). Turn on AF point zoom. This helps a lot. Important: FOCUS HUNTING also contributes to camera freezing after taking shot! If you experience focus hunting, employ the REFRESH RAM METHOD just to be safe the camera won't hang. These solutions are fast enough for static subjects. I don't do street photography, if I did, I would probably get Ricoh GR with prefocus ability. In the end, I had focus hunting issues only with some scenes in the park poorly lit by distant lamps, but why would you shoot that anyway!? My DSLR also has focusing issues in such scenes. Also, feel free to set max auto ISO to 1600 and use f4, because 28mm f4 can be sufficiently sharp in the center even at 100%, even during night. f2 is soft but works for smaller spaces and closer objects.

Always take a spare battery!

Well, I guess that's it... No need to come back in a couple of months

I am thankful to Canon for making this machine, and CHDK programmers for making my SD4000 more useful.

Anyway, I noticed that I constantly check focus and sharpness on my images - particularly in low light! - so the freezing issue resolves by itself Every time I review image, I "refresh RAM", thus preventing the possible hang after next shot

If maximum speed is needed, and there's sufficient light, simply use Tv mode at 1/25, max auto ISO 800, and possibly AF lock which holds between the shots. Not going to playback mode/Alt, you could fill the the entire SD card without any issues...And of course, use Normal focus point in challenging light.

I hope this material will be of use to potential SD4000/IXUS 300 HS buyers.

In order to use manual focusing, one has to set AF lock. However, on half-pressing the shutter while taking the shot, which is unavoidable, subject distance somehow gets messed up - even with AF lock. The lens elements move, or whatever, and it's impossible to take a sharp shot, except maybe in macro. Even then, sharpness is not as good as with AF.When I look very carefully the image on LCD, I can see that it blurs a bit when I press shutter button.At 100% the image is clearly out of focus.

I understand the distance should be in milliliters. Perhaps it isn't?For an object 2 meters away, I would I use value 2000 but it's still out of focus.I tried smaller and bigger values but there was no improvement.

Something happens when I press shutter button, even with AF Lock, and it shouldn't happen...