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My fuel primer pump was a screw to unlock type that was bad. I bought one from Expedition Imports and primed it and it runs fine. The newer primer pump just pumps, you do not have to screw it out to unlock pump.

Newbie with a newbie unimog. I got it registered in Colorado. Passed emissions and the DMV only asked a couple questions. I even showed them pics. It was harder to get State Farm to give me full road insurance, but they did.... Reluctantly. Either way, my Mog is road legal and I drive it around with the attachments in place. What a great machine.

Welcome, Mountain, and good to hear that you got yours through the system.
Not that I understand the urge to drive them on the road, but hey, it's one way to wear out those useless Michelins a FLU comes with.

I plan on making some money with it, so I have to move it around the mountain. Hence the tags and insurance. As for the Michelins.... Mine came with new Pirelli's. Not sure if they are any better. Got it from D n B construction in Lena Wisconsin about 2 months ago. It had 57 hours and 396 miles when I got it. Ram seals need work, but no mice issues.... Yet.

Check the alcohol tank. The cap sits slightly above the back deck and frequently folks have stepped on it and smashed it in. If this is damaged it could be full of dirt. If the valve on the alcohol injector is closed make darn sure you don't open it if there is dirt inside the tank its direct shot into the air system. I think most folks just remove the tank and not use alcohol which is only needed in freezing conditions. Alcohol injection for brakes is definitely not great and if you do plan to use it in cold conditions consider installing an air dryer. I have the parts to do the swap but haven't done it.

Check your cross body air line with a magnet. This runs from the back side of the air pressure regulator on the passenger side frame rail to the air manifold in front of the air tanks. Use a magnet, if its steel swap it out with either stainless of cupronickel. If its steel plan on taking the air system apart to clean the rust flakes out. The line rusts from the inside out so it may look good but its big known source of contamination. The military had a technical advisory and they swapped it with stainless. Note the fittings are metric AN fittings, Belmetric is a source (and also own a Unimog (or two)).

Speaking of technical advisories, it you search around on the Misc Tech manuals forum on this site you will find a collection of military service and tech tips in one thread that would be useful to go through and there is more recent thread that has a student handout for SEE mechanics that has some nice diagrams and explanations of systems.

Take a thin stick and spin the hydraulic cooling fans, they should run free with no friction. There is s known defect that the wires were routed through the top of the cases and the rubber grommets fail due to sun exposure. That lets water in the fans and either shorts them out or rusts the guts. The military fix is just smear RTV on the grommets. I think the field fix is cut the wires. The fans only run after an extended period of running the backhoe so next time you are using it for heavy digging check that both fans turn on. If there is short it will blow a fuse that takes out the rear platform mounted controls.

My last recommendation is get few tubes of grease and a good grease gun and go through the entire lubrication schedule on both the chassis, the backhoe and the loader. Some grease points are hard to find but they exist. On the backhoe some are hidden when the backhoe is stowed. The original grease can turn gritty and solid so its best to follow the instructions on greasing and get fresh grease in every joint. The worst one to find IMHO is one on top of the transmission, the only way I could get to it was rotate the backhoe up and then crawl behind the cab and reach down to find the zerk. Note the instructions on not overlubing.

Wow! And Thanks for the advice. I have downloaded and read, and reread everything I can. Expedition imports, SS, and more. I think I got lucky, as I bought it sight unseen. I've lubed it based on the placards and bulletins. And I know I have a water issue in my air. I'll check those lines and check the hubs that didn't work at first, but are working now. This thing sat for a long time. I have a great set of tools, and I work for a heavy equipment company as a mechanic right now, so I have resources to deal with issues. I had the starter go out already, but that was easy. Im most worried about the driveline. It looks like DnB did some work to it before they shipped it. Has some newer lines and sending unit in tank. Some new driveline boots and such. It's really a well thought out design for a collaboration project between Freightliner and Mercedes. I have another month or two before I take it out there and drop it on my mountain land. So it's been all inspection and maintenance for the last two months. Any other tips, tricks, or advice you have, is truly appreciated. Thanks again.

Spend time on the air system, Take it apart and clean out every component. until you dont see any rust flakes. Mercedes really likes air assisted systems. Pull the engine cover and lube all the throttle linkage rods.

Definitely drain the portal hubs and replace the fluid with synthetic gear lube. If you use it on the road consider putting on the special vents that keep the fluid form pumping into the axle.

The fuel system hoses are infamous for leaks under vacuum. Get some neoprene hose and cut it in short lengths. Slit it and slide it over the barbed section of each hose connection then put a full wrap hose clamp over it. Make sure you get the very hard to get at hoses on top of the fuel tank. Check to see if you have the old style primer pump on the injector pump. If you need to unscrew it, its the old style, order a new style from EI and do yourself a favor. Pick up a spare strainer and gasket for the fuel system.

Of course the biggest potential issue is sun damaged hydraulic hoses. Many SEEs have the original hoses and the sunlight really did a number on them. If they are loaded with cracks its pay me now of pay me later in the field.

The gaskets on the valve stems can deteriorate and the wheels can go flat. Cant do much except take the air out of the tire, break the bead and put in new stems.

Speaking of tires, if you have a spare, its held in with a long fine threaded rod, spray it with penetrant and lithium grease ASAP, Its a real PITA to get off if its dry.

I will, thanks again. I can't wait for this place to thaw out and start building my road to my property. About as off grid as you can get for Colorado. Was thinking about a 4x4 tractor, but it's all jeep roads and 4x4 trails to get there. The smaller stance is going to allow me to wheel it up some serious terrain. Treacherous enough to film the trip!