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Basically the cable release is powered by the camera.
The cable release doesn't send a signal to the camera, like the wireless remote. Instead the camera provides a current in one of the leads, and the cable release closes the circuit so that the current flows back to the camera.
In older cameras the shutter release buttons were mechanical, but nowadays ...

There is more shutter lag because the shutter has to close first before opening again to expose the shot. When you turn on live view, the mirror is raised and the shutter is opened, so the image formed by the sensor can be fed constantly to the LCD. When you take a shot in live view, the shutter closes again to 'reset' the sensor before the actual exposure ...

Yes it is possible with all DSLRs.
The 30s limit of all non-Olympus DSLRs is for timed exposures, meaning you dial in the time ahead of time and the exposure takes up to 30s (or 60s for Olympus).
All DSLRs also have a bulb mode which you press the shutter to start the exposure and let go when you are done. This can also be done with a remote control which ...

Unless your unit is defective, by default most DSLRs will not release the shutter if:
Focus has not been acquired.
The flash is charging
The buffer is full
1 and 2 can be over-ridden using the custom settings. If you go to MF or AF-C (which defaults to Release-Priority) you should not experience this due to #1. If the flash is down (and no flash is ...

As long as you aren't pointing the camera at the sun, lasers etc. (see this question)
You should be ok, at worst you'll get a completely over exposed image and the camera may give an over heating warning or the battery will run flat.
This is based on the general consensus (google to the rescue):
...

Infrared triggers can lose their minds when in the presence of sunlight or a strong IR source. The sun puts out SO much IR the receiver can't see the signal unless its window is in shade or very close to the transmitter. They do work really well indoors or at night though, and cost less than the radio triggers.
And, just as a FYI, a toilet-paper tube taped ...

Nearly every cell phone camera uses an electronic shutter rather then a mechanical shutter. Once that is understood, the rest of the equation is simply how fast the software capture the shot.
You stated that you have had the Apple iPhone 4 and considered it laggy. The iPhone 4 is on a path to become the most used camera on Flickr, and I think many people ...

Disclaimer: I have not tried a D7000 yet, so I'm answering in general terms.
The only downside I know of is for using Bulb mode on some cameras.
With a cable release: You press the remote button, hold it down and then let go when done. Some remotes have an option to keep the button locked down, but you have to release it at then end of the exposure.
With ...

That is the self-timer which does that. Press the left arrow and you will see the drive mode menu and choose the one with a rectangle rather than a clock. It will then take a photo in a fraction of a second, almost instantly after the shutter is fully pressed.

If you're shooting in summer daylight with very long exposure times, regardless of whether you damage your sensor or not, you're going to get a completely blown out image, with no recoverable data. If you want very long exposures in bright light, your only real choice is to cut the amount of light going through the lens. For this, you'd normally use a ...

Put it in Manual (M) mode and roll the wheel until it shows 'Bulb' on the display. Press and hold the shutter button for the desired length of time. You don't need a remote, but it helps to prevent camera shake to a great extent.
P.S. The manual is your friend.

To me this sounds like the Mirror Lockup custom function setting. When using a tripod this is useful as it first locks up the mirror to avoid the shake from that as the picture is taken, allowing the camera to be as still as physically possible when the second click opens the shutter (assuming you use a cable release).
This can be turned off in the menu ...

Apart from the focus issue Itai already explained there is one other "feature" which can lead to this behavious:
If you put your camera into IR remote mode pressing the shutter on the camera does not respond.

Good 'ol mir had some info:
This camera will not function unless a battery is loaded
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/av1/htmls/index2.htm
Which I guess makes sense given that it has no manual operation at all, only aperture priority.

You normally have to set the camera to accept the remote signal. This can be found sometimes with the drive modes or self-timer, it really depends on your model.
Once the camera is ready. Aim at one of the IR receptors and click the release. Some cameras have a front receptor, some have a back one and some have both. Look for what looks like a small very ...

Yes, you can, provided that your Rebel supports remote shutter release.
Just different remotes will behave differently and you need to check how exactly. Some will open the shutter on first push of the button and close on the second, while the others need to be held down during the whole exposure time. This behavior might also depend on other settings, like ...

The 30D remote shutter release is very simple - all you have to do to activate the shutter is short two pins - no arduino needed.
All you need is to take a microswitch (I used the reset button from an old computer for my DIY shutter release) and connect it the old shutter release cable so that the old cable presses the microswitch (sounds like a job for ...

Luckily, you are wrong. There are plenty of non-DSLRs with remotes, either wired or infrared red.
Search for cameras with infrared remotes and look at the breakdown by size on the left. As of today, their are 4 ultra-compacts, 7 compacts and 7 SLDs. Do the same for cameras with wired remotes and you will see the smallest is the Olympus ZX-1 among a number ...

According to page 170 of the manual the only way to have it automatically do it on its own is to remote/timer setting with 2 second or 10 second timer. This will result in all three shots taken with one press. Otherwise, you have to hold down in continuous modes or press three times in single shot modes.

You need to keep the button half pressed. The setting is not locked when you push half way. If you let go, the system believes you decided not to take the photo or the lock was no good (maybe it focused on the wrong thing). When you release the button, the settings are also released.
You need to press half way and keep the button half pressed after the ...

I believe you purchased the wrong item. The Nikon D300s is compatible with a laundry list of remotes which includes:
MC-22
MC-30
MC-36
MC-21
MC-23
MC-25
MC-35
ML-3
Unfortunately the MC-DC2 is compatible with only the following camera bodies:
D90
D7000
D5000
D3100
Source: NikonUSA

You could try out the custom firmware Magic Lantern (http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki). I use it with my Canon 550D without any problems. Besides other useful features (intervalometer, audio triggering, motion detection, HDR filming) it has a Bulb mode where you can set the exposure up to 4 hours (as I can remember it).
The ...

For these two specific units ...
Wireless ML-L3 - good for distance and convenience (for example it's easier to be in the shot yourself), but bad as needs line of sight and is unreliable in strong sunlight.
Wired MC-DC2 - good for the fact that you can lock it with the camera on bulb for exposures longer than 30 seconds, but bad as can only be used as far ...

I have a wireless RF remote for my camera and now that I have wireless I would not do wired. The main reason is that there is less chance of tripping over the cable or having to worry about being tangled in it. Or if you are doing pictures with you in them you do not have to worry about hiding the cable.
Having said that I would recommend RF (radio ...

What is the use of this 10-pin remote accessory terminal...
The 10-pin terminal contains lines that do the following:
Activates metering and focus (same as the AF-ON button)
Releases the shutter
Illuminates the meters
Provides battery voltage
Provide RS-232C communication at TTL levels. I've only ever seen this used for GPS on bodies that support it.
...

Canon makes 2 remotes, the timer model and the non-timer model.
The non-timer model, the RS-80N3 is the cheaper one. I don't own one of these. The timer model, the TC80N3 is actually a pretty useful device. I was using it, well planning to use to shoot the Leonids, just the other day. I've had mine for about 4 years and I seem to use it at least several ...

The material most soft shutter release buttons are made of is not the reason they are called such. Many, including this one and this one, are made from metal or other rigid materials.
The reason they are so called is because some users feel the larger size and raised position of the button compared to the typical small shutter release button on classically ...