By way of a quick recap, 'Dream Weaver
1', a 12m Roberts Spray, departed Mackay in July 2006 to tour
the north Australian coastline. Following a stormy wet season
spent in Darwin, we again threw off the berth ropes to cruise
the famous and remote Kimberley coastline in early June this
year.

The longest passage you have to make in
the Kimberley region when departing Darwin is the first one,
traversing the notorious Bonaparte Gulf from east to west. Many
cruisers opt to cross the 250 nautical miles directly from Darwin
to either the Berkeley or King George Rivers. We had plenty of
time though and were intent on seeing as much coastline as possible,
so tracked south down the NT's west coast before sailing (or
more to the point motor/sailed as the forecast 15-20kt sou easter
petered out to 5-10kts) the 90 miles to Lacrosse Island, at the
base of the Bonaparte Gulf - wow, we're in the Kimberley!

Sheer sandstone cliffs which step up from
the sea onto spinifex covered plateaus are everywhere in the
Kimberley. They are a truly magnificent spectacle, and even more
so where they form massive gorges around rivers like the King
George and the Berkeley. These two rivers are the 'icon' rivers
on the eastern Kimberley coastline and are not to be missed.
Once over the shallow sandy entrance bars, these rivers provide
sanctuary from the predominant winter sou easterlies. You can
spend days if not weeks exploring these lengthy but narrow deepwater
gorge systems where towering waterfalls discharge enormous volumes
of freshwater for most of the year.
Freshwater is abundant in the Kimberley although many of the
smaller creeks dry toward the end of the dry season. We were
seldom more than a week between watering opportunities, which
is more than can be said for other provisions. Unless you plan
to have your champagne and caviar brought in by float plane,
you need to budget and stock carefully before leaving.

We were prepared for a 5 month stay and
cleared the Darwin supermarkets of many of their tinned goodies
before departure. After about a month, you would kill for a tomato
or any fresh greenery! On the other hand, fish and oysters are
abundant once you get the hang of local conditions and we lost
count of how many luckless mangrove jack disappeared via the
galley. Fuel is available at a number of locations but come with
long pockets as it costs up to $2.50/l for diesel and $3/l for
ULP, and they don't believe in credit cards or cheques. Our vote
goes to the friendly gents at McGowans Island Beach (private
camping park) in Napier Broome Bay where both diesel and ULP
are available off the beach at a budget $2/l.

Story and Photos by Julie and Cameron
of Dream Weaver

The western coast of the Kimberley
(a point to point stretch of about 250 miles) is deeply indented
and provides some of the most spectacular and well protected
anchorages you will find anywhere. Aboriginal art in caves and
on protected rock faces is common, particularly wherever there
is permanent water. A number of derelict settlements along the
coast bear testament to just how remote and harsh this region
was for those non indigenous who attempted to make it their home.
Headstones and crumbling stone buildings say it all.

Sailing is an almost forgotten art once
you round the top of WA and head south in the Kimberley (unless
you stay well offshore, but where's the fun in that?). Generally
light winds and difficult navigation through tortuous and often
unsurveyed waterways with strings of pearl rafts thrown in for
good measure means plenty of motoring. We logged a 50% sailing
record, but many others are not as fortunate. The tides are huge
in the southern Kimberley (both east and west coasts) with springs
bringing a whopping 10m+ differential. Naturally, currents are
likewise impressive in constricted channels like the entrance
to the Prince Regent where we heard of boats being taken along
at 14 knots - in neutral. Luckily we didn't encounter anything
quite this furious although current did assist us in achieving
up to 11.5knots under power - surely a record for a 'Spray' which
is noted more for its performance at anchor than in the speed
stakes?!

Whales are 'everywhere' on the western
Kimberley coast, with the humpback season coinciding with the
dry season. We watched speechless as a large bull came clear
of the water within 100m of the boat before thundering back into
the water in what we assume was a display of territorialism.
I will never forget the immense size of the creature up close
or the thought of whether the insurance premium had made it through
ok in our absence!

Crocodiles are also prolific around coastal
and estuarine parts and the smaller fellows are quite inquisitive,
often coming right up to the boat for a closer inspection. Swimming
and snorkeling in all salt water is unfortunately off the menu
unless you fancy becoming the menu. Numerous freshwater holes
well above the reach of the crocs do however provide welcome
relief from the hot weather in this part of the world.

Aside from pearl farming, the other big
businesses in Kimberley waters are tourism and gas. Numerous
charter boats and helicopters take their well heeled clients
to enjoy the delights of the Kimberley while the less obvious
offshore gas wells are serviced by frequent helicopter relays
to and from the mainland. Surprisingly, we saw only a handful
of private vessels, many of whom we spent time with. It was always
a treat to meet likeminded others and swap stories over a drink
while watching the sun sinking into the Indian Ocean.

After about 2½ months, we
turned back for Darwin via Wyndham, a journey of about 1000 nautical
miles. If we hadn't seen everything 'in the book' on the way
down, we made efforts to see it on the way back. A highlight
was an overnight stop at Montgomery Reef where we were lucky
enough to have spring tides and calm weather. The 9m ebbing tide
created spectacular waterfalls over the edge of the reef and
provided some entertaining 'white water rafting' in our tinny
through the deep channels incised into the reef.

Safely back in Darwin, we're now left to
contemplate the next adventure. South East Asia features high
on the list, but first we'll see out the cyclone season in air-conditioned
marina comfort and go through the normal off-season maintenance
routine. Perhaps go see that big rock in the centre of Australia!