Description

PMT takes a proud, and aesthetic line of resistance up the steep front of the buttress. Expect technical face climbing, as well as, down home crack slugging. The third pitch offers as much exposure as you can get on the formation, and is an unforgettable experience.

To the right of Trundlers Club.

Pitch 1, 5.12-, A stunning combination of features makes this line possible. Climb wistfully, if you can through shallow dihedrals, small aretes, and thin, solid face holds past bolts to a two bolt, semi hanging belay. The climbing on this pitch is technically demanding, and uniquely beautiful.

Pitch 2, 5.10+, Climb hand and fist crack into the "V" shaped chimney, and out the small overhang to the Triangle Ledge. Standard rack and bolts. NOTE- you can keep going up to the next set of anchors to belay. Less comfy, but time saving.

Pitch 3, 5.10+/.11-, I still think it's best to belay from the higher belay. Climb face out and left past several bolts to reach the very thin crack. This section is very exposed, and feels pretty wild. Climb the ever widening crack to top and the party ledge. Standard rack + a #4 for the top, and maybe even a #5.

Protection

If it's your first go, a rack of doubles from #00 TCU- #3 Camalot, wires, and a small selection of larger cams. , 60 meter rope.

Rap the route carefully, with a 60 meter, and you're rocking it with a 70 meter.

A simple approach is go to Chicken Point and then head up a gully toward the route. Here are GPS directions. bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/Maps/E... (note: we had some backtracking due to getting cliffed out) Rap Beta: use a 70M rope and rap from the higher anchor on the second rappel. 1st person raps down the corner to easily reach the anchors and ties the rope ends into the anchor. 2nd person raps straight down the steeper face and can be pulled into the anchors. The rope won't go anywhere near the crack this way.

Fantastic route! Somehow I had it in my head that the first pitch was 5.11, I was sorely mistaken, it is a brilliant pitch of sustained technical 5.12 face climbing! Very very intriguing and challenging. As for the approach, if you have a vehicle that can make the drive, drive to Chicken point and enjoy a leisurely 15-20 min approach and a heroes welcome from the Pinko's when you return! And don't fret about stuck ropes, just be thoughtful with yer pulls!

excellent work by the FA party, though I am not surprised. The first half of P1 is thoughtful yet secure face climbing followed by a nice rest. Then get ready for two subtle and techy cruxes separated by another rest. Incredible pitch. 11 bolts.

For pitch 2, don't be tempted to burn your big cams (#3 and #4) too early, though there is a sweet spot for a #5 at the beginning. For the rest of this pitch you only need a few pieces up to #.75 C4, doubles in 1s, 2s, and 3s, and one #4. The two bolts at the chimney are right where you want them. "Triangle of Love" ledge is about as good as it gets.