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Would a six speed transmission need a oil cooler and if so how would I set that up?

The only thing I ever did for mine was to use a pump to recirculate the fluid and drop it up top in front to ensure proper coverage from the g-forces. If you're shifting a lot on a road coarse, you're shifting too much...

I haven't gone yet just planning to go next month. Just wanted to take some precautions and be same than sorry. I switched the trans and diff oil to royal purple.

probably telling you what you already know, but if you haven't bedded the brakes properly (i.e. systematically placed pad material on the rotor), I'd strongly recommend doing so as it's the cheapest and most effective way to make what you have work best. Also, be sure you "parade" some after laps to avoid marking your rotors.

Not parading the brakes, but basically some cool down laps/parade laps. A slow cruise to let the components diffuse some heat before you park the vehicle...and don't set your e-brake for a while after coming in.

What they said, but here's a bit more: If you get the checkered flag at the front straight, chances are good it'll be awhile - maybe almost a full lap - before you get to the track exit. That lap should be as brake-free as possible. The track day organizers want your ass off course asap so they can get the next run group out, but its understood you are doing a cool-down and taking it at 4/10ths in stead of your usual 9/10ths is understood and accepted. You'll get a feel for it when you get there.

The next thing you will see when you get off track is a bunch of cars 'parading' at like 5 mph around the furthest edges of the paddock. Probably coasting in first gear and just letting the engine idle carry them around. They are cooling their brakes and engine thataway and I would recommend you do this as well. I do it for like 3 minutes or until I get sick of puttering around. That slow roll will keep your brake rotors from getting hot spots sitting underneath the pads. In my case I kept my brake duct fans on too but thats probably not something you have on your car.

Of course, with the full Frankencooler setup and a ginormous radiator my engine temps seldom went past 205 unless the weather was hot :D

"LxF welcomes with open arms all members, regardless of social status, creed, color, sexual preference, or anything else. The only thing we discriminate against is douchebags."

I see that a -AN/hose barb fitting is used to connect the OEM hoses to new braided lines for the new cooler.

I'm wondering (1) what kind of pressure the transmission fluid is at and (2) are the high pressure AN fittings necessary or can I just use hose barbs and clamps vs AN fittings, rubber hose vs braided, etc.

During a recent move--and garage clean out--I came across a cooler that I must have bought at some point and it does not have replaceable AN fittings like the coolers in this thread recommend. I'd like to try using it if I can since I've already got it sitting around. It has the same flare-type fittings that lock into the transmission with spring clips.

I was planning on sliding rubber hose over the metal tube of the OEM lines--overlapping by an inch or two--to connect to the new cooler but I don't want it to leak if the AN fitting is necessary because of the transmission fluid pressure. I figure if the hose barb to AN fitting used to tap into the OEM rubber line doesn't leak then sliding rubber hose over the OEM metal line at the OEM trans cooler and securing with clamps shouldn't leak either.

Thank you, this is pretty much what I was thinking without all the technical talk, lol. I didn't even think about flaring the freshly cut ends but that's a great idea to keep the hose from backing itself off.

I want to fit a new trans oil cooler and reuse the stock trans oil cooler for the engine oil.

Should this be OK?
Your engine oil cooler uses -10AN size lines, but your trans cooler uses -6AN.
Does this mean the engine requires far larger lines / has far higher flow requirements, and by using the stock trans cooler / -6AN lines, I'd end up restricting the oil flow and starve the engine of oil?

On your photo, the stock trans cooler has had the pipes disconnected from it.
What size are these pipes / recepticles on the stock trans cooler?
(So I can get appropriate connectors and fit lines, to await the fitting of a sandwich adaptor for the engine oil cooler).
Or is it far easier to just connect to the lines further down, where they turn to rubber?

Why do you use a 3/8 - 6AN barb connector when fitting the new trans oil cooler to the stock lines?
Why not just connect to these pipes that you disconnected from the stock cooler?

When you use the 3/8" - 6AN barb connector, do you just cut / chop the stock trans oil lines once they've changed to rubber?

There are so many questions I just can't find answers to, and I'm reading all the Frankencooler threads (there's a lot!).

I'm about to pull the front off my Magnum, and want to do as much work as I can whilst it's off, but I can't gain a sense of confidence about any of these issues no matter how much I read these threads.

I do hope you can get back to me and shed some light upon my darkened mind.
Thank you.
Regards,
D

I wouldn't use the stock transmission cooler for an oil cooler. If you read thru the early pages of the thread, you will find that with experience it was found the replacement cooler was better, but the real benefits arrived when we hooked the two up together with the aux unit first in line, feeding cooler fluid to the stock transmission cooler for another pass thru. You'll also find detailed discussion about why this is a good thing, how airflow intervenes to keep the heated air from dumping right back into the secondary cooler etc. etc. Its a bigass thread for a reason. Sorry lots to read I know.

-10 an on the oil cooler was deliberate overkill as stated waaaay back when in the thread. More oil flow capacity is not going to be worse, and when everything gets tied down the -10 lines are so substantial they form part of the structure of the new assembly just by being there.

No idea what the stock sizes for the transmission cooler are at this late stage so many years later. But I did give a detailed parts list. You should be able to use that I would think. It would certainly be easier to connect to the rubber down the line. We went hard lines because Bob - rest his soul - personally took pride in creating hard lines and it was a signature feature of his he *liked* to put in. Miss ya Bob for many more reasons than just the car.

Remember the early config was revised several months into the install detailed on page 1 and more. Sorry but asking me why I used a hose barb 10 years after documenting the bejesus out of the build... too much time has passed without going out to the garage and tracing everything and unfortunately Darth Hemi is 200 miles away from me right now. However on reflection I may remember the reason - we had to connect to rubber at some point because we wanted to keep the stock tranny fluid tstat in lay without alteration, so at one point waaay back those stainless lines stopped.

I think a lot of your questions would be answered by a) reading thru it (in particular follow CoolVanilla's diagram showing the routing of the transmission line cables) and b) getting under the car and following things around down there. Also remember the Frankencooler project was done MANY different ways and pretty much no one else did hard lines. Pretty much everyone else did braided fittings. Again I was lucky that my ace mechanic/mad scientist was an expert at making them and wanted to.

Here's my more tow-oriented version of the twin-cooler setup:
I locally sourced (due to time constraints) Performance World 16-row coolers of similar size to those highlighted in this thread (BTU:32,000)
These, coupled with a new Severe Duty coolant radiator and cooling fans, should help keep things 'Chilled on the Hill'..!