Where's the Best Boeuf?

In Burgundy, bien sûr! We went in steaming hot pursuit of the finest
version of France's classic beef stew, one spoonful at a time

By

Ratha Tep

Updated Jan. 25, 2013 12:01 a.m. ET

THE CLASSIC FRENCH beef stew is back en vogue.

Boeuf bourguignon—the dark, rich, deeply flavorful concoction of beef that's been slow-simmered in red wine until just shy of falling-apart tender—was showered with love in the 1960s, when it was a regular on the dinner-party circuit. In recent years, as several high-end chefs have opened casual bistros, the rustic dish has resurfaced on restaurant menus across the U.S. It's also causing a stir in its homeland, where stellar tradition-bound versions share the spotlight with...