Pages

Sunday, October 27, 2013

The Sweet Meat of Pumpkins

Courtesy Shannon Graven

It’s probably an overstatement to say that fall is my favorite time
of year, because I’m sure I say that with the arrival of every new season.But, it is a pretty amazing time in the Pacific
Northwest ―especially this year, with the absolutely spectacular display of
fall colors awash everywhere you look.Out in the fields, farmers are busy taking
advantage of the warm sunny days and chilly nights; this perfect scenario has
set them scrambling to take full advantage of optimum harvest conditions.

A recent visit to support local Herrick’s Farm inspired me to take
a step beyond selecting my usual generic pumpkin carving variety and to venture
into lesser known heirloom territory. The farm was abuzz with the activity of screaming
school kids all in the throes of Halloween excitement. Their holiday spirit was
so infectious I joined in the clamor and proceeded to wrestle down my own gnomish
looking pumpkin.

Based on its sheer ugliness―and high baking
praises―I trundled off with a 10-pound prize, a warty blue/green affair affectionately
called Sweet Meat (a gourd in some
circles). Only at Halloween would something this creepy
appear even vaguely edible.

B

y early the next day I had serious plans for this pumpkin. Armed with my largest chef’s knife and a glint in my eye, I tackled the gnarly behemoth.
I stabbed through its thick reptilian-like
skin and hazily hacked it into manageable pieces.I pulled out its slimy seeding system and set
it aside.Then I placed its meat in a deep roasting pan,
poured in a thick layer of steaming hot water, sealed it with foil, and baked
it until fork tender, about 1-1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, I sorted through the plump seeds, gave them a good cleaning
and dispatched them to a solitary brining solution for later roasting.Finally, I gathered up the assorted pumpkin
detritus and stealthy eliminated it ―all into that vast pumpkin graveyard.

Once out of the oven and cooled, the meat easily peeled away
from its skin and was ready for a quick turn in the food processor. In short order, the processor’s pulsing
rhythm had this mass whipped into an astonishingly elegant, creamy, deep golden
elegant puree. Did I mention elegant?

Pumpkin Bread

Most pumpkin breads can require up to 1 cup or more oil or
butter.With the addition of the moist Sweet Meat pumpkin pulp, I’ve used decisively
less fat here.If necessary you can even
reduce the amount of granulated sugar.The agave nectar provides a sweet caramel flavor that enhances the
pumpkin, but honey will work, too.After
it cools, wrap it well.If you can let this tender loaf rest a few
hours before cutting, it will slice like a dream.As a
variation, I sprinkled about 2 tablespoons streusel between the layers of
batter and added a bit more on top of the loaf before baking.

In a mixing bowl, beat butter and sugars until
light; beat in the agave syrup, then the pumpkin; when combined beat in the
eggs one at a time.

In small bowl, combine the dry ingredients and gently
stir into the pumpkin mixture.Spread into prepared pan and bake for 60 minutes
or longer; until it begins to pull away from the sides of the pan and the
center is cooked.Cool on rack for 10 minutes before removing from
pan.