Very pleasant conversation talking with him on the phone. He isn't at all familiar with Buicks. He changed the ad as soon as he was informed about the modifications to the car. I had quotes for redoing my interior and rechroming my bumpers. Same as his 7,000.00. Hmmmmm. Nice trim strait body, no rust. I guess if I were considering buying it, but I'm not. I used to say things were too high priced, then I figured out my real problem. I don't have enuff money. Hope he gets a good price. He seems very honest and the car is obviously very nice too. Have a nice holiday and be of good cheer!

To all my fellow Buick collectors,restorers. Have a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR! May you all have much success in your Buick endeavors. May your trials small and your accomplishments many. GOD Bless us all !

Bob, the answer is yes, since the car could not have been correctly supplied by the factory to the dealer, or sold by the dealer to the consumer as a correct factory authorized dealer option with them when new

In 2007-08 I took over the build of a project car for a customer. You see it in the picture below, A 1937 Ford. Behind the Ford you can see a Cuda. The Cuda was in the same class "antique restored" that our Packard was in. I did not do the restoration on the Packard, we bought it the way you see it. I cleared out the shop to build a display for the Packard. You are judged on how the display fits the car, a 20x20 display gets more credit then a 10x20 space. Over the course of the show I talked to the owner of the Cuda a few times, nice guy, the Cuda was a very nice car. It was over restored, no Cuda was that nice from the factory. The owner of the Cuda was worried that the Packard would beat him and get best in class. If he did not win best, he would not have enough points to go too the nationals back east. It did not matter to me how the Packard did, after the show I would just drive about seven miles up the road to go home. A lot of things were stacked against the Cuda to win, it was just roped off, no display, in a 10x20. The Cuda won best antique restored. never getting a judging sheet I do not know what was wrong with the Packard. (nothing) And did not care. I know that people are not going to bump out a car on tour, for a car that is just going up the road. And I was fine with that, but it does give a person some insight to the fact that no matter how nice a car is, the show must go on. Build/restore every car as nice as you can, and when the winners are picked, use that time to buy one more beer, before they shut down the beer vendors.

It's important to keep in mind that it's 52 years old. Have you owned any other older cars? The suggestions posted will make it the best it can be, but it's never going to drive like a modern car.
I spent about $3k on a 67 Mustang, trying to get it to handle as good as my girlfriend's RAV4. It's almost there, other than the steering. That was with relocating the upper control arm position, and replacing all the rubber in the frontend with bearings, which in turned makes it incredibly noisy and harsh.
A lot has changed in design in the past 50 years, and it's going to be difficult and expensive to get a modern feel from a old design.

Disclaimer - Don't try this at home, kids!
Today, we had a high of 72 degrees with Sunny weather. This morning's forecast called for a lot of colder weather and mostly rainy days for the next week or so. This afternoon, I decided it was time to transplant the body onto the mostly restored chassis so I could get my daily driver back into the garage. I spent a couple of hours working on this and then a couple of my fellow retired police friends stopped by to help. Their help allowed me to get more done than expected. I used my farm jacks from Tractor Supply, along with a couple of floor jacks and miscellaneous boards and bricks to accomplish the job. I was able to remove the body from the Special chassis, roll the Century chassis into place, lower the body onto the chassis and roll it into the back of the garage. With the help of my friends, we rolled the rusty original Century body on the body dolly out of its storage space on the side of the driveway and then rolled the Special chassis under the rusty body. I then lowered the rusty body onto the Special chassis. We then rolled it back into the storage area on the side of the driveway. Since it was getting dark, while I picked up tools and jacks, my buddies covered the engine with a tarp. We then stacked the body dolly beside the body/chassis to get it out of the way. In the near future, I will need to clean up the garage and move some more parts into storage in/on the Special chassis/rusty body combo. When I have more time, I will assemble the hood over the Special engine and remove the tarp. I temporarily placed the seats that came in the Special inside the Century. After I get the garage cleaned up and organized, I can get started on body work. The body is on temporary spacers to keep it off of the chassis to make it easier to do the body work before dropping it the rest of the way down and installing the body bolts. I think the photos will enable you to see how I did it, but I don't recommend anyone else doing it this way. The farm jacks work, but they really don't feel as stable as most people would probably like. I used a floor jack with some boards (and bricks to get more height) to make it a bit more stable than the farm jacks alone.

You definitely need a new ICM. The second photo I posted shows how the wires connect between the coilpack and the ICM. It does matter how they are connected. You should stick with that and not try to mix and match colors in hopes it doesn't matter.
If your engine won't start you should get down to basics.
Check for spark. Is there spark at the plugs when your trying to start the engine? I think you will find this helpful
Do you have fuel proper pressure at the fuel rail? There are fuel system tutorials on my website that tells what you need to know about Fuel Pressure Testing

From lots of discussions on the Reatta forum, the crank sensor is seldom intermittent......it is either good or bad and if bad the engine will not run.
Several people above have suggested the coil pack and module and that would be my first choice.
They are sort of pricy new, you might want to pick up a couple at the pick-n-pull before going for a new one.

The dyno showed us some lean areas in the fuel curve, so we tuned the 750 carb but were not happy with the result, so we switched the carburetor for a Holley Street Avenger 870 CFM unit to better supply the thirsty 454. This tuneup process was verified on the chassis dyno with a wideband oxygen sensor installed in the exhaust for optimum air fuel ratio.
We didn't do full power pulls on the dyno yet, as the car is super-fresh and is still not broken in. After a 4-500 miles we'll change the fluids again and see what it does. We'll be running Royal Purple synthetics to reduce friction as well as keep the moisture at bay.
We put some miles on the car and are quite happy with the result. The car is stunning in any light, turn heads everywhere does, and the performance is excellent. It is a new feeling and tight, the steering is crisp, and that 454 makes tons of tire frying torque!