"Tinting" meaning of the type that blocks a high percentage of ultraviolet rays is a no-brainer. Do it.

The tinted windows that come standard do not qualify. Consider them too... at least the enrty door because of the unusually high heat transfer in that area due to the metal door.

In addition to the cab doors, you can get an almost imperceptable "tint" on the windshield with around 70% UV protection. The only drawbacks are some optical effect with polarized glasses and concern for the use of adhesive tape .

When I looked at a mirror mount like what you did I was dismayed. The fancy ones on my unit make it impossible. A ladder mount was not possible because the ladder resonates strongly around 16 MHz and completly detunes any antenna close by. I found continuity from the luggage rack to the frame so my mount is a whip to that bar. For listening, it is a wire over a tree limb or cicumferentially around the roof. I operate in the space between clothes cabinets in the bedroom - a bit cramped.

Since the Pactor modem goes back a while and internet access is so available these days, I wonder where you go that is so remote.

I share the concerns of Tom Hanlon and George B. regarding front/back level. I see differences due to torsional twisting or "sway-back" effects on some sites. The latter is an annoying problem that causes a compression at our entry door particularly when we use blocks on the rear without levelers. The door bangs or jams on the striker plate... sometimes enough to be really annoying when we have enter through the front doors. In the most recent case the bend in the chassis was enough to entirely prevent the door from entering into the door frame. This effect seems to be increasing the more we use our PC.

The very first time I used my HWH levelers, the tires and chocks skidded and the rig fell backwards. Later visiting the HWH plant I found that they design with this problem in mind. My levelers we fine only needing some adjustment as to level sensing.

They pointed out that the emergency brakes are on the rear duals. Lifting the rear causes a coresponding reduction of weight on the tires that may end by, as I found, falling off. If a camp site is more than a few inches low in the rear, I will use blocks under the tires and the same amount under the jacks. Also, I now have four of the Harbor Freight solid rubber chocks. These are serious business. They get hammered in whenever there is any concern about lifting with the HWH jacks.

As to the front wheels the HWH guys say you can safely raise the front wheels entirely off the ground. Since then we do it routinely. I even add blocks in front if the levelers max out before getting level. Marge still frets about tires being in the air so I beat some blocks under the tires mostly for effect. We also use a folding step in those high situations.

The black and grey tank flush feature is great! The only problem is when a dump station does not have a water hose or the water hose does not have a coupling at the end. Then there is no way to hook-up for flushing.

Rather than dig out my regular hose, I use a 10 foot section of flat hose with couplers on the ends. This makes things simpler as you can see in this photo.

When done dumping, just connect the ends of the flat hose, loop it over the macerator hose-hooks and secure with elastic cord. As you see here.

At the start of this summer's tour I had around 12,000 miles on the coach During the trip last year the engine changed over those miles as indicated by the engine-specific calibration factor of the Scangauge. However, fuel consumption remained at a flat, unchanging average of 9.4 mpg. No sign of "engine break-in" that people talk about.

This summer after 4 to 5,000 miles, the average mpg and ScanGauge calibration finally began to rise as we meandered to the West coast. (In CA and OR the average went down. Is their gas different?). Never-the-less, back in Florida at 25,000 miles the overall average for the tour was 9.6 mpg. I now think "engine break-in" is real.

We are accustomed to having a removable overhead bar in the shower. This is convenient for hanging wet towels and rain coats as well as creating extra closet space. Home Depot had the end cup/socket pair of connectors and an adjustable length closet bar. Installation was easy.

The bar in place The connector cup end

Bonus: I am 5' 9". It turns out the bar is so high that I never have to think about removing it to take a shower.