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Several years ago I was sitting in Arif Kadri’s new ‘stan’ (shepherd’s summer house), which at the time was just a one-room stone hut they built mostly “for fun” (since back then they only used the farm in May and September). I looked around and asked the obvious question: “Would you let tourists come and stay?” They offered to give me the key. Coupla years later, and they’ve actually expanded it with a small bedrooms and a bathroom, and a fireplace! And not only that but all the families of Gjarper have been the most enthusiastic about helping to mark, signpost and maintain the surrounding hiking trails, which makes them not only some of the best in Valbona, but makes them some of the best people. I’ve fallen into the habit of calling it “Heidi-land” because that’s what it most reminds me of. In 2015 I sent 5 French people up there, and met them on the road “That was exactly what we wanted!” they said “Some of the best days of our lives!” Apparently Florant took them all over the mountain, to places you’d never find on your own . . . . Anyhow. This is Northern Albania at its very very best, and I highly recommend spending a night there. Or more! Bear in mind however, that this is very much a homestay, so be prepared to join in traditional life as it’s actually lived. We’re happy to arrange it for you, or you can call them directly: Florant 067 30 14 643 or Elisa Metaliaj 068 36 26 118 (I think Elisa speaks English). In any case, don’t forget to at least stop by Rilindja, to pick up your super handy map (with trail notes) of the hikes around Gjarper.

Open: April – November (inclusive, 8 months)

Winter accommodation possible, if you want to haul your own wood, etc. Cook over the wood stove and wear your coat 24/7 probably. Good for snowshoeing.