Malibu has sand and cobblestone bottom, three point breaks, a pier, a creek and a lagoon.The outer point has kelp beds and is a hard breaking fast tube that grinds over the reef.The middle break is a peak than runs into a bowl that runs into a boomerang that runs into a long , long wall ... half way to the pier.

We arrive ... its 8:30AM and its GOING OFF! (See Boo Hoo surf trip.)

You only make one in three waves from either the outside or the middle break but when you do ... WOW!

First point is a perfect wave but you are three deep on a good day!

We paddled out in the small bay in the middle... the tide high enough we didn’t have to rock hop and avoided the rip and the whitewater.

Easy paddle right into the lineup without even getting my hair wet. First wave ... took off on a inside shoulder high peak, crouched low as I got covered up through the bowl, the wave crunching on the tail of my 9’2” Jean -Luc Robert’s performance longboard,knocking it sideways and then spitting me out onto the shoulder!

Malibu is usually a paper thin, perfect shape, toes on the nose or climbing and dropping wall... not today ... never seen it break so hard and fast particularly with an incoming tide ... the section’s were coming down in sheets!

Next good wave ... same story ... shoulder high inside peak ... but this time feeling more confident and the wave sucking less hit the bowl in a high line, screaming cheater five, yelling at some guy trying to drop in ... made it out to the shoulder my7” center fin slipping slightly as the wave broke ... couple of turns up the nose again then back and out before I hit a close-out section.

Found the best way back to the line up was take the whitewater to the sand, walk back up to the bay and paddle from there ... otherwise you had a long paddle with a strong rip with heavy sets with guys crashing into each other right in front of you.

Got caught inside as a beauty a couple of feet overhead swept through ... some bare chest guy in (54F water 56F) air outside got lucky and rode it almost all the way to the pier.I caught the next big one ... hit the bowl and it stood way up, suspended, towering over me ... would have been epic ... then not one but two guys dropped in on the shoulder and collided ... I bailed out and called it a day ... two and a half hours, cold water, beat up from getting hammered on the ones I didn’t make and shivering even in my 4/3 with the building light onshore breeze.

Stuart being his first time there never really got the feel of the place.He paddled out to the kelp bed by the outer point and tried to take off inside the hot shot shortboarders .. wrong ... got totally smashed or dropped in on. He finally came back inside and caught a couple of smaller ones.

Outside guys on modern quad fish were ripping ... pump pump ... cover-up ... pump pump ... tail side ...pump pump ... floater ... pump pump ... boom! On the really clean big sets guys were riding all the way across ... one young kid went way out on the shoulder did a roundhouse cutback and as he hit the lip pulled off two 360’s down the face then pump pump out to the shoulder again!

The cameras were knee deep on the sand as we dashed across PCH dodging traffic including a Ferrari and a Lambo to Jack In the Box for a late breakfast, laughing as a Mexican nanny struggled with tow head young twins (a boy and girl) outfitted with blue leather reins and both running different directions.

Thank God the road was open on the way home and an hour later hit the sack without even taking a shower for a two hour nap!Life without a wife!

It was a nice south swell....thought doho would be breakin good so i went to go longboard and SCORE! these nice shoulder/head high waves just rollin through some reeeaaal nice rights of middles...caught one so nice caught it in middles ended up past the other side of the creek. it was doheny at its best. good times.

At Lacanau south in the evening. Ok, Ok, This session was just for testing the new board with bad waves: 1m waves powerless with onshore wind. Even if it was not perfect, the board was good enough to have some fun.

Session: Easter Weekend

Well the waves were indeed big this weekend. But most of the beach is just straight and the waves come straight in without any direction at all. This led to huge close outs that smashed down with a roar.

There was a 5.4 and 4.3 earth quake nearby on Friday. So this meant that the lifeguards weren't letting anyone do more than put a couple feet in the water. Everyone was keeping their eyes open for a tsunami. But the quake was up in the mountains and there were no major problems.

Sunday followed with 3 quakes just offshore in the ocean, 4.8, 4.8, and 5.0, around 8am. I didn't hang around to wait for a tsunami or tidal wave. But the radio was telling people to stay away from the beaches and that no swimming was allowed at all. I guess certain areas near the beach were being volunteerly evacuated.

I found a few areas that might be doable with smaller waves, but in general I wasn't really able to find anything great. The water was considerably colder than up north in Lima, but with the wetsuit it shouldn't be too bad. I did not see single person (other than myself) the entire weekend with any sort of board or intention to surf.

I drove up to Camana and then from Matarani to Punta de Bonbon. Down near Punta de Bonbon there were tons of farms and no real roads to the beaches (though there were a few signs). I didn't feel like 4 wheeling too much with the rental car. I'd advise bringing some kind of 4x4 for checking out those beaches.

Had a nice morning surf together with Carlos from Colombia. We went out at around 10 in the morning and paddled out north of the middle of Hoddevik, following a rip out. We then paddled almost all the way south. We had to adjust quite a bit from one set to the next, but when we finally were in the right spot, we caught some good, quite heavy waves. I was proud of getting three out of the three first waves I tried to surf this morning. The session ended after approx 1 hour, since we had to leave for Oslo, besides I was out of energy after a very light breakfast.

Haaaa, It's my first session with my new board. Great! it works perfectly. The waves were pretty good and I scored 2 tubes. The right was not as hollow and fast than the left. I was alone during all the session. It was a good choice to go early in the morning because, as it was the last possible session for the next days, it became really crowded.

It had been a while since this Oxnard boy has surfed the Bu. Given the fact that I work 15 minutes away, sometimes it's easy just to hit up second point rather than drive home and make the glass off. Besides, if you live in Oxnard, you know that glassoffs are a rare thing. So the only thing that makes this session truly worth mentioning is the fact that Kalani Robb was in the line-up this day surfing betwen second and third point. It's kind of a shocker to see a Kuai boy surfing the LA Zoo, but I managed to chat with Kalani for a few minutes and he seems like a pretty cool cat. He still kills it by the way, but then again..I wasn't surfing so bad myself. We've had a few back to back souths right now, but the wind conditions haven't been perfect. the Bu always seems to have the best wind conditions out of the breaks in LA towards evening.

went up to NSW for holiydays and went down for a surf and prob one of the most crowed breaks ive ever been to.and their were all fucking dicks no respect for anyone not even for the locals. about time someone taught them a lesson or to. but other than that good session with mates