Another tip of the hat to “old” are pommes souffles, which my date suggested I try. Insisted I try. Pommes souffles are a very traditional French preparation: thinly sliced potatoes, twice-fried, so they magically puff up. They’re light as air and incredibly delicious, and were never actually on the menu at the Maisonette, but everyone who was anyone knew to order them. My friend’s parents ordered them for her as a little girl, when they’d take her there for dinner. These are accompanied by a beautiful Béarnaise.

Everyone tells me that they are waiting to go to Boca to celebrate a special occasion. Don’t. Go and grab a drink at the beautiful bar, order a small plate, and admire the nearly seamless blending of old and new.