Passing on the Padma Shri

On April 20 at the Padma Shri 2013 awards in the capital, India's President Pranab Mukherjee conferred the government's fourth highest civilian honour on fashion designer Ritu Kumar for her work in fashion, textile and craft revival over the last 40 years.

“I didn’t even know such a category existed, since this system of awards has always been so opaque,” the 68-year-old awardee told Vogue in February when the awards were announced.

While some may bemoan the fact that it took so long for a fashion designer to be recognized — 66 years since the inception of the awards — Kumar insists, “It is not a personal triumph. I’ve acted as a catalyst for the revival of our ancient traditions in textile, but if it were not for the craftsmen and weavers who work quietly and tirelessly even today, there would have be nothing for me to work with.”

The designer, who began her work with four block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta 40 years ago, hopes that the award will lure more of her counterparts into the serious business of saving indigenous crafts.

“Fashion is just one story — turning fabric into garments that are then shown on the ramp. But there are many smaller human stories that lead up to it. We have nearly 16 million people working in this industry right from the grassroots level, and they are the ones we should be proud of.”

Kumar remains one of the most prolific veterans of the Indian fashion industry, with a clientele that includes celebrities like Aishwarya Rai, Jemima Khan and even the late Princess Diana.