Restaurant Review: French Twist

New restaurant laV takes East Austin dining to the next level

By Lynne Margolis

Published: June 9, 2014

Photo by Jenn Hair

The East Side’s evolution from being a place to get great Tex-Mex breakfasts to becoming a foodie hot spot isn’t exactly news, but with the opening of laV—which does for French food what qui does for Asian fare and Franklin does for Texas barbecue—it’s now something more: a world-class dining destination.

In fact, laV Executive Chef Allison Jenkins and Advanced Sommelier Vilma Mazaite both came from the jet-setter playground of Aspen, Colorado, specifically the five-star/five-diamond snow-bunny resort Little Nell. Houston investment banker Ralph Eads and his wife, Lisa, have a home there, and stopped in frequently. They often talked of opening a sophisticated haven for great wine and fine food and finally enticed native Texan Jenkins and her Lithuanian-born colleague into helping them realize their dream of bringing French-Provençal cuisine to Austin.

Working with architects Bobby McAlpine and David Baker, Jenkins got to design the kitchen and coordinate other elements, down to the silverware and linens. As permit delays stretched the process to two years, the group opened a food trailer, which proved to be a smart way to develop and hone certain dishes. But Jenkins happily left it behind for the restaurant, which exudes elegance without stuffiness. From the casual-feeling patio (with its very Mediterranean fountain) to the wine “cellar,” an intimate room containing much of the restaurant’s 7,000-bottle collection, laV is designed for conviviality and relaxation.

Sectioned like a house, the restaurant opens onto a wine-tasting area featuring bottled-lined walls and mohair-covered barstools surrounding oblong bars, above which hang an array of giant bulbs suggesting Champagne bubbles. A second bar and dining area, dominated by a giant crystal chandelier and large, gilt-framed mirrors, leads to the main dining room.

There, tied-back curtains of rich, muted-green velvet-like fabric, tufted velveteen banquettes and high ceilings create a Victorian parlor feel that quickly charms. There’s also artwork by Michael Dines, whose scenes of Provence look more like soft-focus photographs than paintings. Paned-glass doors show off the wine cellar, which can seat 10 for private dining. Tables seem close, but that winds up adding to the fun as friendly diners discuss—and even share—dishes.

The menus are full of discovery opportunities, starting with two delightful cocktails: the seasonal housemade Bellini (the pear is excellent) and the punchy Devil’s Muse, with tequila, rhubarb and ginger shrub and Thai chile. The dinner and bar menus are served in all areas, and both are exquisite. In addition to what Jenkins describes as “cornerstone classics” meant to be “easy and approachable,” such as roasted chicken and cod, there’s adventurous fare like grilled octopus and bouillabaisse. Her goal is simple: “Get people in the door, get them to like what you do and get them to try something new and different every time, with those safe options still there.”

The grilled octopus, with fingerling potatoes and tuna sauce, was very nice, and contrasted well with the oh-so-rich and smooth chicken-liver pâté. Served with house mustard, strawberry preserves, cornichons and lightly toasted brioche, its creamy and light spice was enhanced by an excellent Vincent Careme Vouvray. (That brioche, and all breads and desserts, are by extraordinary Executive Pastry Chef Janina O’Leary, formerly of Trace at the W.)

We also loved the delicate bluebonnet salad and the hand-cut tagliatelle, with young pea greens and baby carrots adding color to the pasta and light ricotta-pea puree. The heartier cavatelli and clams, with chunks of herbed lamb sausage, tomatoes and manila clams, was full of nutty, peppery goodness.

Though every dish was outstanding, the entree we enjoyed most was a special that should become a menu staple: Moroccan spice-grilled quail. Inspired by Morocco’s proximity to France, it’s a Lockhart quail on a bed of couscous with shaved cauliflower florets over a brown-butter cauliflower puree. Piquant flavors of coriander, cumin, mint, parsley, honey and cashews fill the palate with each bite of this wonderful dish. But the classically Provençal grilled whole daurade and coulotte steak frites with bone-marrow béarnaise are also worthy of mention. (Pass over frites in a French restaurant? Impossible.) The “Love Drunk” Mouton Noir rosé was a lovely pairing that crossed over well with all three.

As for desserts, they’re spectacular. O’Leary’s warm brioche doughnuts are a doughy delight—almost as divine as the Earl Grey tea and lavender ice cream, which we insisted on ordering after nearby diners gave us a taste. The lemon and mascarpone budino and chocolate delice were grand, but that ice cream? An experience. As Jenkins says, laV “is very much about the celebration of French lifestyle.” And c’est la vie; we only live once, right? Ice cream for everyone!