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RJ742*T7 Hotpoint Wall Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for RJ742*T7 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the wall oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Replacment of the bake unit

The hardest part was removing the old nuthead screws off the old bake burner. Once those were off installing the new bake element was simple. One screw in each wire terminal, two hex head screws to hold the unit in place. Works like a charm!

Lower back element had burned out with a piece melted out of it.

First I opened the shipping box that the new part came in and figured out which tools I would need. Then I went down to the cellar and clicked off the breaker that supplied power to the oven. In this case, it was the only 50 amp breaker in the panel so It was easy to figure out.Then I hung a drop light inside the oven so I could see clearly and used a quarter inch drive ratchet with a quarter inch sized socket to remove the two self tapping screws that hold the element plate to the back of the oven. Then I used the same sized socket to remove the small screws that hold the wires and terminal ends to the element contacts.Then I removed the old unit, placed the new one inside and reversed my steps till the new elements leads and bracket were both securely in place and the element supports were resting on the bottom of the oven. I then turned the power back on and set the oven for 350 degrees and switched the 'bake' selector on. Within thirty seconds, I had a nice even heating new element that glowed brightly from one end to the other. Success! Piece of cake. In the future, I plan to get all my appliance parts at PartsSelect.com and do a lot more repairs myself instead of just replacing the entire appliance.

I shut off the power at the breaker. Then I checked that the power was off by turning on the stove. Light did not come on, power is off. [ By the way, I locked the breaker box, in case somebody helpful came along to turn the power back on !] Then I undid the screws holding the old element . Pulled it out, and undid the screws holding the wire leads to the element. Screwed wire leads to new element. Pushed back in, and screwed brace screws back in. Went out to breaker box and turned power back on. Turned on oven. Worked. Second time I've done this. I kind of forgot how, since the last time was about 6 years ago, but anyone could figure this out, unless they didn't want to. Took 20 minutes. A little hard working in a small space , but beats buying a new stove.

This repair is very simple and only required about 15-20 minutes per unit. After turning off the power to your oven at the main breaker box, it's just a matter of removing two 1/4" screws and pulling out the units. The tricky part is removing the power plugs to the elements and not letting them slip back into the insulation. Once you plug in the new elements and screw them back in you are good to go. Once note, while you have everything out, it is a great opportunity to give your oven a good cleaning.

There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.

The oven gasket was leaking

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.

This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.

Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has self-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.

Element had blown a hole in itself during failure.

total of 4 screws to remove and replace. Took out the first 2 and pulled element out a few inches. now remove the screws from the element itself but be sure you don't loose the wire out the back of the oven. The only challenge was to keep the wires from falling back through the rear of the oven. This could be easily avoided if you have a clamp of some type ie. clothes pin, hemostst, shop clamp ect.

Cut off power, but needed flashlight to see what I was doing. Couldn't get the flashlight to shine on right spot and had no one to hold it. Oven is 19 years old, so screws holding it into the oven wall and to the connection were very old and very difficult to loosen. Finally held prong with pliers and wrenched the screw loose after repeated tries and using a little WD40. Very proud of myself! I am a wife and mother of two teenage boys, but I end up doing all these projects. So proud that I posted a photo of the oven on facebook! Goes from 0 -350 in three minutes now. Yippee!

Oven bake element melted

Removed the racks, removed two screws holding the element to the back of the oven, removed two screws holding wires to the element, installed by the reverse. BUT in my case the new element still didn't heat. The part was perfect so when the old element melted and shorted, it must have damaged the controlling switch (220V requires dual pole switch--apparently one side is now bad). Since the oven is over 30 yrs old, I'm returning the element and will buy a new oven.

The Baking elements takes 10-15 minute each but the Broil Element is a bit tricky as the screws holding the element is difficult to get to. I also used duct tape to temporarily hold the element to stay in place.