I also have a AE 31257 lipo brace on my other tc4 but you will need to drill 2 new holes in the chassis as its offset in the wrong direction so the battery hits the drive shaft and you cant flip it over like the diggity.

The tc5-052 does not look like what's in your Car, unless it was modified. The tc5-051 is a direct fit, and won't have shaft clearance issue.... In any case, making it Work for you is the key here .... Good luck ...

Checking out the pictures again, it seems that it was modified, and cut to clear the Center spline. The tc5-051 does not require any cuts at all with the original fttc4 Center spline, thereby keeping the original rigidity and strength of the brace.... It worked great in my big accidents....

Checking out the pictures again, it seems that it was modified, and cut to clear the Center spline. The tc5-051 does not require any cuts at all with the original fttc4 Center spline, thereby keeping the original rigidity and strength of the brace.... It worked great in my big accidents....

The 051 looks like it has no offset so it WILL NOT CLEAR THE CENTER SPLINE. You need the offset one for a TC4

Mine is neither the 50, 51 or 52, I have the first one Diggity made. It did not require any mods to fit my FTTC4.

The tc5-050 I got clears the Center spline , but the tc5-051 will also clear the spline if you shim it a little higher... The closer the brace is to the Center of the battery pack, the better. Getting the brace to stay up is the key here...

Before you Rojna start calling people you don't know names, you need to do your research correctly, and it will be judged here whether you like it or not... I've seen the way you chopped up the Fttc4 parts to make it Work, and I disagree with your approach ! You've modified the Car too much to keep calling it a tc4 ... You won't be able to accurately use any setup software to run it . Anyways GOOD LUCK in the next Snowbirds, but I'll keep running mine with only non intrusive mods....

I have always done well on low to medium-high grip tracks with my setup. But I always seem to hit a wall on the setup when the traction gets really high. What setup changes do people make 1st on their TC4 when the grip is up and the car is rolling too much?

To accurately setup roll Center, you need the RC Crew Chief Software, but there seems to be ways to lower the roll Center and spring up to keep the responsiveness at a good level. Blue or gold springs up front with blue or silver springs in the rear seem to Work best with the widest track width allowed... On the other End, using teflon sealed Bearings on the axles(never rubber sealed ones) also seem to keep better corner speed and stop traction rolling and spinouts....

I am a seat of the pants setup person. I won't ever use software to setup my car. I won't use a setup station and I don't even own a setup board. I just want to know what other people are doing with their TC4 in VTA when their car starts traction rolling in high bite.

I should state that I do think there is value in using setup stations. But I think it is possible to setup a car with a few basic measuring tools and get good results.

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Personally I would never run gold springs on the front of a VTA car due to the nature of the VTA tire's sidewalls.

Before you Rojna start calling people you don't know names, you need to do your research correctly, and it will be judged here whether you like it or not... I've seen the way you chopped up the Fttc4 parts to make it Work, and I disagree with your approach ! You've modified the Car too much to keep calling it a tc4 ... You won't be able to accurately use any setup software to run it . Anyways GOOD LUCK in the next Snowbirds, but I'll keep running mine with only non intrusive mods....

I am a seat of the pants setup person. I won't ever use software to setup my car. I won't use a setup station and I don't even own a setup board. I just want to know what other people are doing with their TC4 in VTA when their car starts traction rolling in high bite.

I should state that I do think there is value in using setup stations. But I think it is possible to setup a car with a few basic measuring tools and get good results.

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Personally I would never run gold springs on the front of a VTA car due to the nature of the VTA tire's sidewalls.

I usually run Front Blue - Rear Silver, if traction is low Silver/Green.

Less traction compound on front tires, I usally start with full front/rear and as traction comes up im only covering 1/3 of the front tires, also some things like wider wheel hexes, raise the rear blocks or lower the rear upper inner turnbuckles.
On really high bite tracks you will also want 2.0 or less toe in rear.

As long as you have steel outdrives the diffs will easily handle it, the plastic outdrives wont.

Are the front already steel because its a spool or do I need to buy a whole different ball diff and crank it tight to get steel outdrives? Will the 8.5 turn kill any power out of corners or will it be about the same as a 17.5 turn with a lot more top end? I am trying to make the drivetrain bulletproof for fast motors.

Are the front already steel because its a spool or do I need to buy a whole different ball diff and crank it tight to get steel outdrives? Will the 8.5 turn kill any power out of corners or will it be about the same as a 17.5 turn with a lot more top end? I am trying to make the drivetrain bulletproof for fast motors.

If you have a spool then yes its steel, just check your rear diff, if the outdrives are plastic then just get this ASC-31128