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Chain Link: Rock Candy, Arkansas TimesDaily Arkansas news, politics and entertainment. Featuring the state's most trusted blog, dining guides and dining reviews, movie times and more.https://www.arktimes.com/imager/b/rss/808579/e619/at_social_logo.png144144Burger King's Mac n' Cheetos suck all the joy out of two guilty pleasureshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2016/07/11/burger-kings-mac-n-cheetos-suck-all-the-joy-out-of-two-guilty-pleasures-at-once
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2016/07/11/burger-kings-mac-n-cheetos-suck-all-the-joy-out-of-two-guilty-pleasures-at-onceZoë Rom
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/u/blog/4486201/mac-n-cheetos-box.jpg" width="600" height="600" />
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As a food blogger, I try to avoid the trap of foodie-ism and food snobbery. So okay, I mostly drink craft beer (but it’s so good!), enjoy Instagramming a well-plated meal, and my heart skips a beat when I hear the words “micro greens” but my tastes are, in general, entirely democratic. I’ll never shy away from even the sketchiest food truck or street vendor. Crickets from a food cart? Bring it on. Pickled eggs from a gas station in the middle of nowhere? Why not? In fact, sometimes I wonder that I might enjoy food too much to be a food critic, because it's just all so good! <br>
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That being said, let's talk about <b>Burger King’s</b> latest fast food gimmick, <b>Mac n' Cheetos</b>. People simply aren't eating as much fast food these days, but the success (and notoriety) of menu items like <b>Taco Bell's <a href="https://www.arktimes.com/EatArkansas/archives/2012/03/15/taco-bells-new-dorito-tacos-the-untold-little-rock-story" target="_blank">Doritos Locos taco</a></b> and the chicken-is-the-bun abomination<b> KFC <a href="https://www.arktimes.com/EatArkansas/archives/2010/04/15/double-dohwn" target="_blank">Double Down</a></b> have allowed the King, the Clown and the Colonel to continue to grab headlines. <b><a href="https://www.arktimes.com/EatArkansas/archives/2016/03/21/burger-king-goes-to-the-dogs" target="_blank">Hot dogs</a></b> apparently weren't edgy enough for BK; thus, Cheetos-branded fried stuff. I went in excited to sink my teeth into these cheesy food-chimeras, hoping perhaps discover a new, late-night guilty-pleasure snack, an indulgent mess of refined wheat and cheese-like substance. <br>
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Like I said, I don’t identify as a food snob, but I'm not a regular at the drive-thru window, either. As a vegetarian, these types of places typically don’t have a lot of options for me, and it can be a hassle to find anything, even salad, that’s not bacon-covered. This is one reason I was so excited to try the Mac N’ Cheetos. They’re vegetarian! They’re cheesy! They’re a combination of two of the world’s most perfect things.carbs and cheese! Odd flavor combinations are often the most delightful, like caviar and white chocolate. These were my caviar and white chocolate, how could something that sounded so strange and wonderful fail? <br>
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Upon first glance, I knew I was in for a disappointment. They were not the lurid, orange Cheeto-color that I was expecting, but were instead a dull, greasy brown. Instead of resembling the bright orange faux-cheese chip that we all know and love, they looked more like the droppings of a very, very sick owl. An owl who could stand to get more fiber in their diet, but instead subsists on a diet of overcooked Kraft Dinner and snack chips. They didn’t get any better from there. <br>
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There were five tubular servings in the electric orange box, each leaving a greasy stain where it came into contact with its cardboard cage. I bit one in half, expecting to reveal a neat cross-section of neatly packed cheese noodles, but instead uncovered an ungodly mess of molten stuff with the consistency of cheap rubber cement, and a color that I like to think Chester Cheetah would find insulting. The thing is, there was a time in my life where I really enjoyed eating rubber cement. These were different. I did not enjoy these. <br>
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Somehow, these things were simultaneously too moist (from the horrifying molten core of cheese-phlegm), yet all too dry from the Cheeto-crust. Food is known to evoke memories and emotions, and the Mac n' Cheetos coating put me in mind of something from last night’s casserole dish that resists the dishwasher’s attempt to purge it, and persists even through soaking and several hand washings. <br>
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The flavor and texture lingers in your mouth far longer than one would expect from the five-to-a-box serving size. The macaroni and cheese here tastes like cheap cheesy mac, lacking any hint of the good, comfort food feelings I'd hoped for. It was less "Thanksgiving dinner at grandmother's house" and more "pathetic college dinner infused with the smell of a microwave-melted plastic dinner tray." The aftertaste was exactly like having my mouth haunted by the flatulent ghost of a jar of off-brand Cheese Wiz. <br>
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The utter disappointment of this noble experiment reminded me of introducing two people you consider best friends and having them hate each other. I so wanted them to coexist as part of something special the three of us could share, just cheap pasta, artificial cheese dust and me. But alas, it was not meant to be. <br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Mon, 11 Jul 2016 10:40:00 -0500Arkansas TimesBurger King goes to the dogshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2016/03/21/burger-king-goes-to-the-dogs
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2016/03/21/burger-king-goes-to-the-dogsMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/u/blog/4331862/img_3889.jpg" width="600" height="400" />
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A wise man once said "<b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SF1iLXSQto" target="_blank">It's good to be king</a></b>," but I don't know if that applies to royalty of the hamburger variety—<b>Burger King's</b> name has always seemed more of an aspiration statement rather than a legitimate claim. <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emperor_Norton" target="_blank">Emperor Norton I </a></b>had a better grip on his title than does the <b><a href="https://consumerist.com/2015/06/01/burger-kings-fantastically-creepy-king-mascot-is-back/" target="_blank">creepy, plastic-faced monster</a></b> that somehow manages to be more disturbing than a <b><a href="http://www.naturalnews.com/045496_McDonalds_creepy_characters_serial_killers.html" target="_blank">clown with a thing for small children</a></b>. But I digress.<br>
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I drive past the Burger King on Markham every day on my way to and from work, and if the wind is just right and my windows are cracked, I catch a face-full of that weird, pseudo-grill smell that I am convinced is made in a lab somewhere and pumped out from steel canisters to create an illusion of flame-broiled deliciousness. It's always a little bit unsettling—there's really no other smell like it. Thank God.<br>
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But because I enjoy writing about things from time to time that totally ruin any credibility I might have as a legitimate food writer, I stopped in to the Burger King today to try their newest promotional item, the decidedly not-burger <b>Grilled Hot Dogs</b>, which I am capitalizing because the King is pretty proud of that grilled thing. Also a point of pride: the dogs are advertised as being "100% Beef," but hey, who knows <b><a href="http://www.metacafe.com/watch/an-eOnjtnJth7mY/the_great_outdoors_1988_barbecue_lobster/" target="_blank">exactly what part</a></b> of the cow we're talking here? <br>
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In any case, I grabbed a "Classic" dog, which clocks in at a buck-ninety-nine, and a "Chili Cheese" dog which set me back thirty cents more. And then I took them back to the office and ate most of both of them. And the verdict? Oh, they're exactly what you'd expect. A dense tube of mush with some painted-on grill marks and a vague bit of snap to them, slathered in inferior condiments and carelessly shoved into a bag and out of a drive-thru window. They're fine. Edible. Not so terrible that I can snark on them with anything approaching enthusiasm, not good enough to be a fast food surprise. <br>
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The classic is piled with a too-sweet relish, a slap-dash handful of indifferent onions and enough ketchup and mustard to destroy any other flavors. The chili cheese is covered in exactly the sort of canned chili that's been hiding in the back of your pantry for so long you don't even remember how it got there. During my drive, the cheese turned into a <b><a href="https://www.donaldjtrump.com/" target="_blank">translucent, slightly orange skin</a>. </b>Both are the food equivalent of a forgotten anecdote.<br>
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For a buck, these hot dogs would be all right. After all, gas stations have hot dogs of various flavors available for just around that price—and gas station dogs are generally larger and have a bit more flavor than did these specimens. But for $2 and up, these dogs are worth exactly one try, which I have done, and thankfully never need do again. Fans of sweet relish and canned chili will find a lot to love here, so go to Burger King and grab a hot dog if that's your thing. Or don't. You probably won't notice much of a difference either way. <br>
Chain LinkCheap EatsEat Arkansas
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Mon, 21 Mar 2016 12:28:00 -0500Arkansas TimesTropical Smoothie offers quick, healthy vegetarian luncheshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/11/06/tropical-smoothie-offers-quick-healthy-lunches
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/11/06/tropical-smoothie-offers-quick-healthy-lunchesDana Vickerson
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/u/blog/4099234/2015-07-28_17.58.54.jpg" width="600" height="800" />
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When there are so many great local restaurant around, it's hard to justify eating fast food. Sometimes, though, you need a quick bite, or you need something cheap. When faced with the desire for a quick and inexpensive lunch, I gravitate towards <b><a href="https://www.tropicalsmoothie.com/" target="_blank">Tropical Smoothie</a></b>. You may think, oh yes, that's a decent place to get a healthy lunch at a decent price, but for vegans, it's a secret treasure. You see, over a year ago, Tropical Smoothie decided to offer <b><a href="http://beyondmeat.com/" target="_blank">Beyond Meat</a></b>, a vegan substitute for chicken, in all of their stores. Vegan diners can substitute this item for any chicken on the menu. This makes the options far better than the usual hummus wrap or a smoothie.<br>
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This summer, Tropical Smoothie came out with two summer wraps that I just had to write about. For a long time, I've been able to order their <b>Thai Chicken</b> wrap made vegan, and it's quite delicious. They recently changed the recipe to favor more fresh ingredients like cabbage and cilantro, which are wrapped up in a sweet chili sauce. You can get this dish as a wrap or a salad, like many of the items on Tropical Smoothie's menu. The new summer wraps, inspired by Pacific Rim flavors, were even better. The first is a <b>Cha Cha Sriracha Chicken</b> wrap, which had pineapple chunks, fresh vegetables, and a spicy sriracha sauce. The second was the <b>Basil Ginger Chicken Wrap</b>, which had huge pieces of basil and a sweet sauce. <br>
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Sadly, those are no longer on their regular menu, although keep an eye out for them next summer. They are always changing the menu and adding new items, though, and the recent <b>Mediterranean Bowl</b> and <b>Roasted Red Pepper Bowl</b> added to the menu are quite good as well.<br>
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You may be asking yourself, what is vegan chicken, and why would I want to try it? Well, Beyond Meat, the company that has teamed up with Tropical Smoothie, has made it a mission to change the landscape of protein to favor a plant based approach. There are a myriad of reasons people choose to eat less meat, and Beyond Meat has come up with an array of substitutions. The "chicken" strips used by Tropical Smoothie are made from non-GMO soy and pea protein, and they have the texture of an actual strip of chicken. A regular meat eater would not be fooled by this product, but for vegans looking for a boost of protein and a hearty texture to their wrap, this is a great option. The strips also contain no cholesterol, no antibiotics, no saturated fat and are gluten free. So, even if you're not one to give up meat completely, these are a great alternative to mix into your diet. You can buy these chicken strips, as well as many of their other substitutes, at <b><a href="http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/" target="_blank">Whole Foods</a></b> on Bowman.<br>
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With an ever changing menu of creative new dishes, all with easy substitutes to make vegan, you're sure to find something on the run at any one of the many locations around Central Arkansas. So, when you're in a rush, or you need a healthy and light lunch, remember Tropical Smoothie. It's great for in town eating or when you're on the road, as the locations have been expanding over the past several years. <br>
Chain LinkVegetarian/VeganEat Arkansas
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Fri, 06 Nov 2015 11:21:00 -0600Arkansas TimesIn praise of Old Chicagohttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/06/01/in-praise-of-old-chicago
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/06/01/in-praise-of-old-chicagoMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/u/blog/3878398/collage.jpg" width="600" height="300" />
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The last time I visited a chain pizza joint, it <a href="http://www.arktimes.com/EatArkansas/archives/2015/05/26/mellow-mushroom-cant-quite-break-into-the-upper-crust" target="_blank"><b>didn't go so well</b></a>. So when the wife expressed a desire to head up to North Little Rock and eat at <a href="http://www.oldchicago.com/" target="_blank"><b>Old Chicago</b></a>, I was hoping for a better turn of events. It had been awhile since I ate at Old Chicago, but I recall both liking the North Little Rock location and the first one I ever ate at out in Boulder, CO. This, despite my general dislike for thick crust pizza. I mean, sure, Old Chicago will do a thin pizza, but I feel like if I'm eating there, I should go for something heavy, thick and full of toppings.<br>
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We were pretty hungry when we sat down, and so ordered a plate of calamari, expecting the usual rubbery O-rings of deep fried hell that so many places serve. Imagine our pleasant surprised when our plate hit the table and it was a pile of crispy, tender calamari mixed with peppers and just fantastic. To say that this dish was loved is an understatement—and I know that hunger is the best spice, but I would eat these little bite-sized nuggets of happiness any time. So far so good.<br>
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Our pizza was the <b>Chicago 7</b>, which in our case was a Chicago 6 because we declined the green peppers. We didn't miss them. Big chunks of flavorful sausage sat atop a bed of pepperoni, fresh mushrooms, black olives and some of the sweetest red onion I've ever had on a pizza. All to often, it seems like pizza joints use really strong, terrible white onions on their pies—which take over everything with their flavor and leave one with a bad case of yuck mouth. These onions worked and played well with the other toppings nicely.<br>
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And the crust? Well, thick crust will still never be my favorite, but I like this crust. It supports the toppings, has a nice buttery crunchy to it, and doesn't take over with doughiness. It's a perfect example of what a thick crust should be, and made for an excellent meal. To top it off, the tall glasses of <b>Core ESB</b> we used to wash it all down were relatively inexpensive and hit the spot perfectly. Service was friendly, and although the restaurant was a little warm temperature-wise, the large booths were nice and comfy.<br>
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Overall verdict? There is good chain pizza in central Arkansas, and Old Chicago is doing it right. I'll be back, especially if that calamari is always so fresh.<br>
Chain LinkPizzaEat Arkansas
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Mon, 01 Jun 2015 12:28:13 -0500Arkansas TimesMellow Mushroom can't quite break into the upper crusthttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/05/26/mellow-mushroom-cant-quite-break-into-the-upper-crust
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/05/26/mellow-mushroom-cant-quite-break-into-the-upper-crustMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/mellow-mushroom-cant-quite-break-into-the/u/blog/3867188/img_20150524_131150.jpg" width="600" height="450" />
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I was never the kid who refused to eat my pizza crusts. Quite the contrary, actually—I love good pizza crust. I love the tender, crunchy char of good Neapolitan. I love the thicker hand-tossed style available at places like <b>Damgoode Pies</b>. The crisp New York-style pizza at <b>Iriana's</b> and <b>Vino's</b> are the stuff of my dreams. I love good pizza crust. Little Rock has a lot of good places that work magic with crust and toppings. West Little Rock's<b> <a href="http://mellowmushroom.com/store/west-little-rock" target="_blank">Mellow Mushroom</a></b> is not one of those places.<br>
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First, the good stuff. The stuffed portobello mushrooms are pretty tasty, if a touched under-cooked. Lots of feta and mozzarella top a couple of large, moist mushroom caps to create a delicious combination of flavor. The addition of fresh, dressed greens to the plate was also nice, as I always love to see places making their garnishes edible as opposed to just random greenery. The plate was a little heavy on the balsamic—and a sickly sweet balsamic at that. This odd sweetness was a sign of things to come.<br>
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Our pizza was one of the house specialties, the <b>Kosmic Karma</b>—which we felt fit nicely with the <b>Grateful Dead</b> bear rip-off dancing mushrooms and psychedelic <b>Johnny Cash</b> painting that are part of Mellow Mushroom's <b>Cheech and Chong</b> meet <b>Spencer's Gifts</b> approach to decorating. On first blush, the pizza looked good, with fresh sliced tomatoes, lots of cheese, a delightful swirl of bright green pesto—and a crust that seemed crispy, at least judging from the Parmesan-dusted edges.<br>
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<b>William Butler Yeats</b> once wrote, "Things fall apart; the center cannot hold," and I believe he had just finished eating at Mellow Mushroom when he penned those words. There are few things worse than grabbing a slice of pizza and having it go so limp that most of the toppings slide right off. The crust was indeed crispy on the edges, right until the sauce started—where it turned into a soggy mess. I've eaten tiramisu where the coffee-soaked ladyfingers had more support and texture than this crust. Was it over tossed? Under cooked? Just plain awful? I don't know, but I couldn't finish even a single slice.<br>
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Mellow Mushroom has some things going for it: toppings are very fresh, and our portobello appetizer was tasty. But that oddly sweet crust just couldn't stand up to even the light toppings of our order—I would hate to see what would happen to this pizza if it were piled up like Iriana's "Sweep the Floor" or the Vino's "Special." Little Rock is a good town for pizza, and while the hippy-kitsch of Mellow Mushroom might be fun for a laugh now and again, I was feeling anything but mellow when I paid my bill and left. When a slice of pizza swings like a pendulum, somebody in the kitchen has dropped the ball. The place has some good things—like a pretty good beer selection—but for the amount of money I laid down for this soggy pie, I could have had good pizza at any number of local joints. And folks wonder why I'm always on about "eat local."<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Tue, 26 May 2015 10:29:41 -0500Arkansas TimesPie Five Pizza announces Arkansas expansionhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/05/12/pie-five-pizza-announces-arkansas-expansion
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/05/12/pie-five-pizza-announces-arkansas-expansionMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/pie-five-pizza-announces-arkansas-expansio/u/blog/3847729/collage.jpg" width="600" height="300" />
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Texas-based <a href="http://www.piefivepizza.com/" target="_blank"><b>Pie Five Pizza</b></a> has announced that they're bringing their fast-casual pizza chain to Arkansas, joining a recent influx of national chains into Natural State. The chain's press release hits all the current foodie buzzwords like "hand cut" and "gluten-free options," so I'm sure they'll have some takers when the first one opens. The first three stores will be located in central Arkansas and are expected to open within the next year, the first of which is set to open this fall. No word yet on where exactly they'll open, but my bets are on the chain-heavy Park Avenue shopping center in Midtown, the Promenade area out on Chenal, or the Pleasant Ridge Town Center on Cantrell. Hey, maybe I'll hit bingo with all three! <br>
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I haven't eaten at one of these but it looks interesting—customers pick a crust and ingredient and the whole thing gets cooked in about five minutes in "special ovens" which may or may not be powered by black magic. There is a local angle here, too, as Pie Five is being brought to Arkansas by <b>Rob Byford,</b> who currently owns all those Slim Chickens locations that have opened up in the past few years.<br>
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Any of you eaten at one of these? Is it good? I'm sure I'll stop in once everything is open, just to see for myself.<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Tue, 12 May 2015 09:29:00 -0500Arkansas TimesSo I went to Buffalo Wild Wingshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/03/30/so-i-went-to-buffalo-wild-wings
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/03/30/so-i-went-to-buffalo-wild-wingsMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/so-i-went-to-buffalo-wild-wings/u/blog/3778194/img_20150327_184637.jpg" width="600" height="800" />
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This one goes out to all the folks who get on me for always talking about how eating local is the best way to go.<br>
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I went to <b><a href="http://www.buffalowildwings.com/en/locations/Detail/3449" target="_blank">Buffalo Wild Wings</a></b>. And it was decent. Sort of.<br>
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But there are issues with the place, and they start with the drinks menu. Which is completely backward. See, B-Dubs (their terminology, not mine) makes a big deal out of talking about beer styles but they don't give much info on the actual beers they carry. Confused? Well here's how it works: The beer menu has huge, long-winded discussions about pale ales, IPAs, and stouts, describing each style in loving detail without any information about the specific pale ales, IPAs, and stouts actually on tap. Then, at the bottom of each section, a microscopic selection of logos serves as an indication of what is actually carried. Again, sort of.<br>
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The result is a drinks menu that is both pretentious and stupid at the same time. Should places like Buffalo Wild Wings educate folks about types of beer? Sure, why not? Should places like Buffalo Wild Wings do a better job of telling diners what they actually serve? Yes, indeed. Sticking a Corona logo underneath a long spiel about India Pale Ales makes no sense at all — and it defeats the purpose of all that purple prose about beer styles. So when it came time to order, we weren't really sure what was actually on draft.<br>
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Our server was a sweet girl who tried her best to help. We asked, "What IPAs do you have on tap?" She looked panicked but then seemed to brighten. "I wrote that down today!" she said...and proceeded to read us an entire list of every kind of beer on tap. That's okay, I suppose, she wasn't even old enough to drink beer so I don't hold it against her that she had no idea what we were talking about. When she said "<b>Stone's Throw IPA</b>" we stopped her and ordered it. I'm happy that a national chain like Buffalo Wild Wings is putting local beer on their menus, but what arrived at our table was not an IPA; and I'm pretty sure it wasn't even Stone's Throw. So yeah. Whatever. We drank it anyway.<br>
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So how about the wings? They were tasty, I must admit. The Caribbean Jerk wings were a good blend of sweet and spicy, and the medium-hot buffalo wings were tangy and good. The skins were cooked crisp and the chicken itself had a nice flavor. They aren't mind-blowing, but they're as good as any wings served in a paper basket are probably going to be. The dried out carrots and celery served to the side were ignored, but I've got no complaints about the chicken.<br>
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In the end, it was a perfectly acceptable meal, although there was nothing that hit my table that makes me want to go back. I make a big deal out of the beer thing because the restaurant itself makes a big deal out of how wonderful their selection is and how knowledgeable their people are about tasty brews. As a place to watch sports on TV and get your face messy with a variety of sauces, Buffalo Wild Wings is a good option, and if you stick to domestic light beers, it's a good place to get a buzz while doing it. As for me and my house, there's nothing at B-Dubs to sway me from my ongoing quest to get you all to eat local.<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Mon, 30 Mar 2015 11:07:00 -0500Arkansas TimesThe Arkansas connection to P.F. Chang'shttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/03/04/the-arkansas-connection-to-pf-changs
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/03/04/the-arkansas-connection-to-pf-changsMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/the-arkansas-connection-to-pf-changs/u/blog/3692601/pf-changs-vegetarian-fried-rice-lg.jpg" width="600" height="450" />
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It happens sometimes: you look up, and suddenly you're sitting in a <b>P.F. Chang's</b> or its sister restaurant <b>Pei Wei</b>. Because you're a good Arkansawyer, you feel that tinge of guilt that comes from giving your hard-earned dollars to the big corporate guys at the expense of local options. Let me alleviate some of that guilt: You can eat (somewhat) local at either of those Asian-inspired bistros. How? By ordering the brown rice.<br>
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You see, the P.F. Chang's national corporation uses <b><a href="http://www.riceland.com/" target="_blank">Riceland Foods</a> Medium-Grain Brown Rice</b> in all its restaurants. Riceland is a farmer-owned company that has made Stuttgart, Arkansas, the self-proclaimed "rice capital of the world" — and in addition, the company operates the world's largest rice mill in Jonesboro.<br>
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Riceland is unique in that it has all the infrastructure of a large corporation, but operates under a co-op model that returns all profits back to <b><a href="http://www.riceland.com/video-gallery/category/meet-farmers/" target="_blank">its farmers</a></b>. This means that buying Riceland products — or ordering them in a restaurant — puts money back into our state in a very compelling way.<br>
<br>
Brown rice is good for you, it tastes good — and now there's a local reason to order it at a couple of chains. And next time you're out of state, fly your Arky flag proudly every time you pass a P.F. Chang's — because what's an Asian restaurant without rice?<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Wed, 04 Mar 2015 10:39:00 -0600Arkansas TimesBJ's Brewhouse struggles to competehttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/01/23/bjs-brewhouse-struggles-to-compete
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2015/01/23/bjs-brewhouse-struggles-to-competeMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/simply-resistable-fish-tacos-at-bjs-leav/u/blog/3632354/part_1421770739925_image1421770739916.jpg" width="428" height="241" style="display:block; float:right;" />
We've been talking a lot about brewpubs lately — mostly because there are a lot of brewpubs in Arkansas these days, most of them local. One of the non-local ones is <b>BJ's Brewhouse</b> at Shackleford Crossing, a chain restaurant that I <b><a href="http://www.arktimes.com/arkansas/bjs-pub-grub-stands-out/Content?oid=3409971" target="_blank">favorably reviewed</a></b> for the Times back last August. At that time, I thought that BJ's was a cut above places like Chili's, Applebee's, or Ruby Tuesday, and I was pleased by my meal there.<br>
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I must have gotten lucky on that initial visit, because every subsequent visit has been rather awful.<br>
<br>
First, service. I've never seen a group of more unenthusiastic hostesses in my life. Listless, uninterested, and seemingly annoyed when customers come in, the hostesses at BJ's got my last meal off there to a confusing, disheartening start. They wander around the hostess station, and each seems to try and avoid seating customers. The wait can be long, even with a half-empty restaurant.<br>
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Servers aren't much better. The wife and I played a game on our last visit called "Pass the Glass." The rules of the game are simple: you place your empty glass at the edge of the table in plain sight, then count the number of times the server passes it up without a glance. We hit a high score of five last time before I got a refill on my water. <br>
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And lastly, the food: An order of Mahi Mahi fish tacos. The fish was as soggy and listless as the hostess station, and the tortillas were toasted to a strange cracker-crisp consistency that shattered into crumbs at the first bite. I've left packages of flour tortillas open by accident — these reminded me of the results of that mistake. The wife's chicken Caesar salad was wilted and strange, with spongy chicken and bland dressing. There was literally nothing positive about the entire experience.<br>
<br>
With the opening of<b> Lost 40 Brewpub</b>, the coming <b>Damgoode</b> brewpub, the excellent <b>Diamond Bear Alehouse</b>, and superb local options like <b>Stone's Throw</b>, it's going to be tough for BJ's to compete. The beer at BJ's is nothing to brag about, and certainly not on the level of our local options. Will it go the way of Boscos? If they don't improve the food and service, it deserves to.<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Fri, 23 Jan 2015 11:45:00 -0600Arkansas TimesMenu flexibility is the norm at Mellow Mushroomhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2014/10/16/menu-flexibility-is-the-norm-at-mellow-mushroom
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2014/10/16/menu-flexibility-is-the-norm-at-mellow-mushroomDana Vickerson
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/menu-flexibility-is-the-norm-at-mellow-mus/u/blog/3506448/dsc_0104.jpg" width="250" height="166" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<b><a href="http://mellowmushroom.com/" target="_blank">Mellow Mushroom</a></b> might be a restaurant chain, but the items on the menu are far from the average fare you would find at most recognizable American eateries. My first experience with this wacky pizzeria was back in college at Fayetteville, where I relied on it as the only place in town I could get a pizza with vegan cheese. Since then, Mellow Mushroom has been a safe haven for me when I'm traveling or just want some great, filling food. Their menu is bursting with vegan options, from amazing salads to hearty pizzas to huge sandwiches. They also have a great many beers and cocktails on the menu, making this a perfect spot to relax on the patio.<br>
<br>
When Mellow Mushroom came to town, I knew I needed to head out to West Little Rock for some good grub. After a long hike up Pinnacle Mountain, my partner and I settled on the patio to have some drinks and enjoy the afternoon. Hummus is always something I like to try out on any menu, so we ordered that to start. It was light and not oily, with just the perfect amount of spice. It almost feels whipped, it's so airy. The paprika, basil and olive oil garnish just add to the already delicious hummus. <br>
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On this trip, I had to save room for my enormous sandwich. Thankfully, you can get these in half sizes, but I went for the full (and took some home). I settled on the tempeh hoagie sandwich, with vegan cheese instead of the regular cheese, and no mayo. I didn't stop there, though. With a menu this jam packed with veggie offerings, I expanded on the sandwich. I added avocado and marinated portobello mushrooms. My huge sandwich became a monster, and I loved every delicious bite.<br>
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Don't limit yourself to just sandwiches, though. There are tons of veggie offerings here, and you can substitute the vegan menu items for just about anything on the regular menu. The staff are helpful and laid back, and they're usually great about swapping ingredients. Take the Thai Dye Pizza. It comes loaded with an olive oil garlic base, then it's topped with cheese, chicken and Thai chili sauce. That's an easy one to make vegan! Sub out the regular cheese for the vegan cheese, then top with tofu instead of chicken. Now you have yourself a delicious, vegan pizza. <br>
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Dining out is all about being creative and flexible. With some restaurants offering limited menu items for vegans and vegetarians, often times you have to piece something together or go for the salad. That's not always a bad thing, and a lot of restaurants around town will surprise you. Still, it's nice to sit down and have so many options that it's difficult to choose. That's what it's like at Mellow Mushroom, so go and create a monster sandwich or fantastic pizza of your own.<br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:34:00 -0500Arkansas TimesIs Taco Bell's breakfast worth waking up for?https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2014/03/31/is-taco-bells-breakfast-worth-waking-up-for
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2014/03/31/is-taco-bells-breakfast-worth-waking-up-forDaniel Walker
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/the-waffle-taco/u/blog/3255651/img_7386.jpg" width="500" height="333" />
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<br>
It’s undeniable—despite what you may think of their food—that <b>Taco Bell</b> has a knack for drumming up excitement for their products. The "<b>Doritos Locos" </b>taco for example, put a whole lot of cash in someone’s pocket and late night munchies everywhere were satiated by this monster among mash-ups. Taco Bell recently announced they would be bringing breakfast to the people and immediately, the internet was buzzing. Customers were able the get their first taste of the Taco Bell breakfast last week, and so, in the name of due journalistic diligence, I took it upon myself to sample the early morning excitement of a Taco Bell breakfast.<br>
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At the forefront of the Taco Bell breakfast menu is the “<b>waffle taco</b>,” an item that’s proven to be the most anticipated by Bell fans nationwide. Let me just destroy any hopes you may have about this thing being any good—it was awful. They take a frozen, pre-made waffle and give it a quick reheat. They stuff it with eggs, cheese and your choice of sausage or bacon. One bite was all I could palate. The waffle was chewy, spongy, and greasy. The eggs were nearly flavorless and the pale gray sausage patty rubbery. While I hate to sound so venomous, this was quite possibly the single worst item I’ve ever eaten at Taco Bell.<br>
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The sausage breakfast burrito did not fare much better. You’re already familiar with their low-quality, chewy tortillas, but now they’re filled with those same bland eggs and small pellets of chewy sausage that looked frighteningly similar to rabbit excrement. Again, I’d take a pass on this item.<br>
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The “<b>AM Crunchwrap</b>” actually fared slightly better than the rest. It’s a large tortilla that’s filled, folded, and “grilled” between their heated taco press. I opted for the bacon variety this time, and along with small flecks of pork I found eggs, cheese, and a crispy potato hash brown within the tortilla. I have a soft spot for these greasy potatoes, and along with an ample amount of cheese and a little hot sauce, I was at least able to stomach this item...in fact, I finished the whole thing. <br>
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Lastly, we grabbed some of their “<b>Cinnabon Delights</b>.” These are small, greasy doughnut-hole-like spheres that are reheated, rolled in cinnamon and sugar, and filled with the “famous” Cinnabon frosting. These are not high-quality artisanal pastries by any stretch of the imagination, but I found them strangely enjoyable—in fact, they’re probably the only reason I’d ever stop by The Bell again in the breakfast hour.<br>
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I have a rather twisted relationship with Taco Bell. You see, I know (generally speaking) it’s terrible. But every so often, I’m once again seduced by that giant pink and purple sign and I find my car (almost against my own will) pulling into the drive-thru. But I’m very doubtful I’ll be returning to Taco Bell for breakfast until they do a bit of touch up work on their menu. And while I never expect a fast food drive-thru to deliver exceptionally good food, there are several other competitor restaurants offering a quick, hot breakfast that’s much more pleasing on the tongue than Taco Bell’s. <br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Mon, 31 Mar 2014 06:30:00 -0500Arkansas TimesNew Slim Chickens now open on Shackleford in LRhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/12/05/new-slim-chickens-now-open-on-shackleford-in-lr
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/12/05/new-slim-chickens-now-open-on-shackleford-in-lrDavid Koon
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/new-slim-chickens-now-open-on-shackleford-in-lr/u/blog/3134279/slim.jpg" width="386" height="289" />
<br>
<b>Slim Chickens</b> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/SlimsLittleRock?ref=stream&ft[tn]=kC&ft[qid]=5953956796061535781&ft[mf_story_key]=-1159417709133995923&ft[ei]=5953956800049835434.6012325850030.AQK7JBYgo0EJkFcaE7iMG1YHEsYnpE5inQOKXyC4r36lGK4ZYcF_NjJ2FlNZ23t2GxG90feO0GFPxTmRFvpGlPQG3SVXB73TxBajHLeMseGxXyxdiCNu-3l6ytf8BwbcskEVJujsHsEtt1uLBiQxII7SFabSVy5IaktmzacyTZEBwKTt1TQ3edMAJ2MtEkbHfKugZWsDTGORpGoIH5Rmhz_5uc-jTx1v_GZaxqI3Cn255uXO4FE7dPoVIFz9UZhHYCpZ6liQ-D_MXM2w_jh-3EK61J8f2GM-7xRYjzexpZSYHMP70g-wpIs92Ba0Bgi4AZ0&ft[fbfeed_location]=&__md__=1">announced on their Facebook page today</a> that the newest link in their fast/casual chicken chain is <b>now open at 301 N. Shackleford Rd., near I-430. </b>The first Little Rock branch of the Northwest Arkansas-born restaurant chain has done big biz on Markham just across from UAMS. <a href="http://www.arktimes.com/arkansas/slide-into-slim-chickens/Content?oid=2877482">We gave that location a solid B+ review back in May. </a><br>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Thu, 05 Dec 2013 11:32:00 -0600Arkansas TimesLittle Greek is big on tastehttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/11/26/little-greek-is-big-on-taste
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/11/26/little-greek-is-big-on-tasteMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/3121500/1385474011-photo_4.jpg" width="250" height="188" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<p></p>
<p>My initial expectations for <strong>Little Greek</strong>, a chain new to Little Rock in the <strong>Pleasant Ridge Shopping Center</strong>, weren't all that high. When the place sent me an email a couple of weeks ago inviting me to a "blogger event," I barely skimmed it before hitting "delete," the bribe of free food not enough to drag me away from my favorite Mediterranean joint, <strong>Layla's</strong>.</p>
<p>Fast-forward to last night, and the wife and I are trying to think of somewhere to eat, and she suggested Little Greek. Since it was a Monday that found me unwilling to cook yet quite hungry, I didn't argue. Monday is a great night to eat at Little Greek — $5 gyros and chicken pita specials along with $3 appetizers make the place a steal. Even better, the food and service were top notch.</p>
<p>We started with hummus and an order of falafel, and while the falafel was nothing special (although not bad), the hummus was quite tasty, with a nice balance of citrus, cumin, and nutty tahini that is as good as almost any hummus in town. Little Greek offers a choice of grilled or fried pita with the hummus; we tried both, and delighted in the different textures — soft and warm for the grilled version, slightly crisp and chewy for the fried. Either choice is good.</p>
<p>The folks behind the counter had offered us a sample of the gyro meat when we entered, and given the $5 special, I ordered one with fries (which are an extra $1.99). The gyro was huge, full of tender, flavorful meat and piled high with tzatziki, lettuce, and tomato. It wasn't quite as good as Layla's, but close enough that I was pretty happy with the plate. The shoestring fries were piled high and deep, and while they could have been a little crisper, the portion more than justified the add-on price tag.</p>
<p>Jess ordered the chicken skewer platter, which at <del>$11.99 is one of the most expensive</del> only $8.99 makes it a mid-range thing on the menu as far as cost. For that price, she got two tasty skewers of tender grilled chicken over a bed of saffron rice, some pita and tzatziki, and a huge mixed salad topped with feta cheese, and a scoop of potato salad. This huge plate was surprising — and it tasted good, too. In fact, the chicken at Little Greek was actually better than Layla's chicken, which we always find to be way too dry.</p>
<p>All told, we got a heap of food for not a lot of money, and it was served up fresh and quick. The folks working were friendly and ready to hand out samples of the menu, something that's nice for a new place to do. I don't know that Little Greek will ever replace Layla's, Leo's, or Ali Baba as my go-to spot for gyros, but it's certainly going to become a stop for me when I'm in the Highway 10 area and get hungry.</p>
<p>Little Greek is located in the Pleasant Ridge Shopping Center in the former location of Cheeburger Cheeburger.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Tue, 26 Nov 2013 09:53:00 -0600Arkansas TimesThe unbearable plainness of Panerahttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/09/19/the-unbearable-plainness-of-panera
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/09/19/the-unbearable-plainness-of-paneraMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/3045772/1379633631-photo_41_.jpg" width="600" height="448" />
<p></p>
<p>There are two types of restaurants I frequent: the ones I like and the ones that are close. Here on <strong>Eat Arkansas</strong>, I tend to focus on the places I really like, but I do think about those close ones quite a bit. Is my laziness an excuse for inferior food? Perhaps it isn't a good one, but it's all too often the reason why I pass up quality cuisine for something quick, close, and relatively cheap. In my neighborhood, that means settling for places like <strong>Pei Wei</strong>, <strong>Wendy's</strong>, and now, with <strong><a href="https://www.panerabread.com/en-us/home.html">Panera Bread's</a></strong> most recent location opening in the Park Place Shopping center, I find myself at the chain bakery and deli more often than ever. Sure, there's the new <strong>Big Orange Midtown</strong> right around the corner, but even they're a little too upscale when the lazy monster strikes. </p>
<p>So, yeah, I eat at Panera, but I can't say I enjoy it. I don't hate it or anything, but there's never a moment I sit in that antiseptic and blandly decorated dining room, chewing on spongy tomatoes and pressed turkey, thinking, "Wow, now <strong><em>this</em></strong> is a sandwich." I've never had a culinary epiphany at Panera, and it's never pushed me to attempt new things. And that, dear friends, is the terrible genius of Panera, a restaurant that always seems to be full at lunch of both the elderly and a rowdy mob of Episcopal Collegiate students: it's fast food people can fool themselves into feeling good about.</p>
<p>Ever since <strong>Morgan Spurlock</strong> hit the scene with his slickly produced (if dubiously researched) documentary <strong>"Super Size Me,"</strong> fast food has been under attack. To a certain class of people, grabbing lunch for your kids from the Clown, the Colonel, or the King is tantamount to child abuse. Marketing people aren't stupid; they know people want to maximize their feelings of "doing the right thing" with food while minimizing the actual work involved with getting that food into their mouths and stomachs. Enter the "fast casual" restaurants like Panera and Chipotle. Sure, it's not that much better than any other fast food, but hey — at least it doesn't have a drive-thru!</p>
<p></p>
<p>But I suppose I have to hand it to Panera, that John Tesh of delis. It's the culinary equivalent of the color beige, but it's packed every single day. The food tastes just good enough to satisfy the basic human need for sustenance, but in the end, it's a place that only the kids who ate paste in elementary school could ever find "delicious." Panera is a place that somehow manages to sell salads, sandwiches, and pasta that all taste exactly the same, with only minor textural differences. They gussy it up some with real silverware, but really it's just yuppie-friendly fast food with a case of dried out pastries at the front to justify a half-hearted "bakery" label. It's not bad enough to really rag on too hard, but it never turns out to be good enough to justify a return visit. And yet I return, time and time again, to slurp down another wilted panini, another over-dressed salad, another arid pecan bun, fully aware that the problem is not with Panera, but something internal, something in my lazy self that allows restaurants to get away with this sort of slapdash semblance of quality. </p>
<p>Comedian <strong>Jim Gaffigan</strong> once said, "You know you're a pig when you eat something that tastes horrible but you don't notice until the last bite," and I think that truer words have never been spoken. And so I'll try to wake myself up and avoid the siren call of cheap and easy food, because I'm tired of taking that last bite in bland disgust.</p>
<p>Panera Bread is located at 314 S University Ave #100 and just behind the Pat Boone albums at your nearest record shop. They're open for breakfast, lunch, and whatever.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Thu, 19 Sep 2013 19:01:00 -0500Arkansas TimesExile in Guyville at Twin Peakshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/07/24/exile-in-guyville-at-twin-peaks
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/07/24/exile-in-guyville-at-twin-peaksMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2987973/1374712513-img_0255_640x427_.jpg" width="600" height="401" />
<p></p>
<p>I'm going to give the new Little Rock location of <strong><a href="http://www.twinpeaksrestaurant.com/locations/west-little-rock-ar/">Twin Peaks</a></strong> a bad review, but not because the restaurant goes overboard with punny-but-not-funny jokes about the female anatomy — although it does. And I'm not going to give the place a bad review because perched atop the "hunting lodge-themed" restaurant are two superfluous water tanks with pointy tops crowned by a pair of blinking red lights — although that's tacky. I'm not going to give the place a bad review because their beer is served at a tasteless 29 degrees and in sizes called "Man" and "Girl" — although that's either extremely sexist to a woman who likes a big beer now and again or quite emasculating for a guy who just wants a taste. I won't give the place a bad review for serving terrible cinnamon whiskey on a snow-ski and shouting "Shotski! Shotski!" although I find that repugnant on all levels. I'm not even going to give the place a bad review because as we walked up, the numerous loud speakers were blaring Van Halen's "Hot for Teacher," although David Lee Roth's voice has always awakened my hate and rage since the earliest times I can remember.</p>
<p>No, I'm not going to give the Dallas-based "breastaurant" a bad review based on any of those things. I'm going to give it a bad review because the food was simply some of the worst, most apathetic swill I've ever eaten. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Perhaps the great sages and poets of antiquity could come up with words and phrases to describe how bad the food at Twin Peaks actually is, but I am neither poet nor sage. Were I one, I would perhaps say that Socrates' draught of hemlock would be preferable to the things I consumed at this "man cave-inspired" temple to objectifying the female form; or perhaps that I understood Homer's tale of the Lotus Eaters all the better given that the food at Twin Peaks made me forget what it was like to know deliciousness and flavor. But I am just a man, a man that was raised too damned Southern Baptist to enjoy the promised "scenic views" — and raised on too many Southern Baptist potlucks to enjoy the food.</p>
<p>The meal began with a basket of fried pickles, a waitress with a nose ring and a large torso tattoo, and Joan Jett screaming that she hated herself for loving me. The pickles were passable, crisp and salty as a fried pickle should be, the obligatory cup of ranch pulsating with the sound of the bass and possibly the spike in testosterone coming from the guys at the table behind me. Our scantily-clad lady lumberjack made sure to tell us all about how the food at Twin Peaks is made from scratch — everything fresh and never frozen. Maybe that's true, but those pickles weren't anything out of the ordinary. Still, as beginnings go, it might not be "Call me Ishmael," but it wasn't terrible.</p>
<p>If only we had left then, because what followed will go down in history as one of the worst meals I've ever eaten — and I had $1 breakfast pizza from the Kum and Go this morning. My dining companion ordered the "Mile High Club," a sandwich stacked two deep on a skewer and served with a pile of limp fries coated with a heavy dose of what might have been dollar store season salt. The sandwich itself was possessed of a singular flavor, and that flavor was salt. Cheap ham, cheap turkey, and cheap bacon all combined to make a sandwich even more forgettable than my car keys after a long night of sustaining head injuries (and quite a bit less pleasant).</p>
<p>But the gravest crime committed against good taste, even worse than the trampy camp counselor shorts worn by the servers, was the Steak Sliders, a dish that was an insult to both beef and sliders. The "steak" was more like bland pot roast that had been cooked while wrapped in a well used horse blanket. Each bite of these sliders was worse than the previous one, and no amount of dipping in the provided au jus or horseradish did anything to cover up the strange, dirty flavor of the fatty medallions of well-done beef. I'm a man who has eaten <strong><a href="http://www.arktimes.com/EatArkansas/archives/2012/12/20/combat-winters-chill-with-a-pork-intestine-hot-pot"><a href="http://arkansasfoodies.com/2012/01/28/lamb-fries/">pork intestine hot pots</a></a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://arkansasfoodies.com/2012/01/28/lamb-fries/">sheep testicles</a></strong> and I couldn't make it through all four sliders due to the foul flavor and odd texture. </p>
<p>Bottom line? If your idea of a night out is staring at girls in glorified bikinis who will bring you beer and flirt with you for tips, and if you want to add numerous televisions to the mix — this is your place. If you want good food, don't waste one second of your time even thinking about Twin Peaks, because it all may be made from scratch, but it isn't made with any discernible talent.</p>
<p>Twin Peaks is located in that guilty place right behind the center of your stomach that always made you feel weird when you lied to your mother. Oh, and also at 10 Shackleford Drive, where once Cozymel's stood.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Wed, 24 Jul 2013 19:48:00 -0500Arkansas TimesQuick but mediocre at Slim Chickenshttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/05/14/quick-but-mediocre-at-slim-chickens
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/05/14/quick-but-mediocre-at-slim-chickensMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2859648/1368553716-img_9927.jpg" width="250" height="166" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<p></p>
<p>The new <strong><a href="http://slim-chickens.com/">Slim Chickens</a></strong> franchise is just right down the street from me, so it was pretty inevitable that I'd be stopping by on one of those nights when the idea of cooking at home feels like winning a free colonoscopy. I swung into the parking lot with my wife to see a line of cars wrapped around the building to get their hands on Slim's two chicken varieties: wings and tenders. Slim's originated in Fayetteville in 2003, and the menu is a mix of fried chicken, fried sides, fried pies, and fried soda (only one of those is made up). The service was certainly quick in that surly fast food sort of way — we were through the long line in under 15 minutes — but the food left quite a lot to be desired.</p>
<p>We dove right into the menu with the basic <strong>Chick's Plate</strong> ($6.99), opting to sub in an order of fried mushrooms and an order of fried pickles to replace the normal fries or potato salad. The substitution was around a buck more, which we thought was more than fair — until the girl at the speaker told us they were out of pickles. And she said it right when the little screen below the speaker flashed up a high-definition picture of said fried pickles. Changing our pickle order to another of mushrooms, we got our total ($19.85) and drove around to get our order.</p>
<p>The resulting boxes of food were...well, they were fine, I guess. The mushrooms weren't fried nearly long enough, and between their slimy texture and loose breading it was rather hard to eat them. A mushroom has a lot of moisture to it, and it takes a good stay in hot grease in order to get one fried correctly — something that should be par for the course at a place like this. As for the chicken, the tenders were small, and while they were juicy enough, the overall flavor was just bland. A dunk into a cup of "Slim's Sauce" didn't really help things, and the end result was a completely forgettable meal.</p>
<p>Now granted, this is a fast food joint, but I'd hoped for a better showing from the Fayetteville-based chain. If Slim's wants to compete in that part of town — next to a KFC, down the road from Popeye's, and very near Little Rock's busiest restaurant, the Chik-Fil-A on Markham, they're going to have to get their frying times down for sides, spice up the chicken and sauces, and get a little friendlier to patrons. I'll give the place some time to settle in and try again, but my first impression was that this location is coming off a little less than half-cocked.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Tue, 14 May 2013 12:49:00 -0500Arkansas TimesEl Porton: come for the tacos, stay for the cevichehttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/03/17/el-porton-come-for-the-tacos-stay-for-the-ceviche
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/03/17/el-porton-come-for-the-tacos-stay-for-the-cevicheMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2757586/1363550213-tacos.jpg" width="600" height="448" />
<p></p>
<p>My normal expectation for a chain restaurant taco is some limp, hopeless meat covered up by a pile of Taco Bell-style lettuce and cheese. Years ago, this would have suited me just fine, but I've seen too much of tacos these days to settle for anything less than that bright, tangy flavor that comes from the traditional taco: grilled meat with a healthy dose of onions, cilantro, and fresh lime juice. Not everybody likes them that way, though, so wouldn't it be nice if there were restaurants out there that gave you a choice? Sure, it would, and <strong><a href="http://www.elportonmexicanrestaurants.com/">El Porton</a></strong> on Highway 10 does just that.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I sampled three different tacos at El Porton: a fantastic al Pastor that was redolent with citrus and spice, a tender skirt steak cooked to a nice medium well, and a grilled chicken that was passable but didn't really compare with the other two. And while these tacos were wrapped in the flour tortillas we <em>norteamericanos</em> tend to prefer, the flavors inside were authentic and good. I'm not a fan of taco joints that cover their proteins with all sorts of salsas and toppings, so these simple tacos were right up my alley.</p>
<p>Even better than the tacos was a dish off the tapas menu called <strong>Ceviche Mixtos</strong>, two small glasses that contained shrimp ceviche in one and white fish ceviche in the other. I've always liked the acid "cooked" seafood dish, and this version at El Porton was wonderful: clean, bright tasting fish and shrimp with a spicy fresh pico de gallo that would have been good to eat by itself. It's one of the best versions of ceviche in Little Rock, something I'd never thought to say about a chain joint. Still, credit where credit's due — this spicy citrus and seafood dish is one of the best things I've eaten lately.</p>
<p>The menu at El Porton is huge; almost overwhelmingly so. Giant burritos, combination platters, and a wide selection of fajitas make the place guaranteed to fit almost any taste. It's going to take some time for me to branch out into the other areas of that menu, though — that ceviche is just too good to pass up.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Sun, 17 Mar 2013 15:12:00 -0500Arkansas TimesHot, cheap, and plentiful onion rings at Cheddar'shttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/03/09/hot-cheap-and-plentiful-onion-rings-at-cheddars
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/03/09/hot-cheap-and-plentiful-onion-rings-at-cheddarsMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2742742/1362840748-photo.jpg" width="250" height="334" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<p><br />I have been to the mountain, and it's made of onion rings.</p>
<p>Let me back up for a minute to say: Little Rock has an onion ring problem. After all, we're a town that regularly votes the o-rings at Sonic as the top example of what a golden-brown circle of batter-dipped onion should be — and nothing against the popular drive-in, but their rings aren't really that great. The Times' own <strong>David Koon</strong> is of the opinion that the <strong><a href="http://www.arktimes.com/arkansas/lord-of-the-rings/Content?oid=2356318">best rings in town</a></strong> are from a more local source, the <strong>Arkansas Burger Company</strong> on Cantrell, and I've been reading his stuff long enough to know that he's a man of taste. My own personal favorite onion ring in town was made by a food truck, <strong>Papa's Burgers and More</strong>; it was a sad day for me last year when Papa decided to retire.</p>
<p>But ring fans can rejoice: there's a new, great onion ring in town, and it's in a place I wouldn't say is known for great food — <strong><a href="http://www.cheddars.com/menus/xpp7n-menu/">Cheddar's Casual Cafe</a></strong> on University Avenue. Now, Cheddar's isn't exactly haute cuisine, but since it's only a few block from my house, it's become a quick and cheap go-to on those nights where the wife and I are just too tired to cook after work. And for $3.99, the place serves up a foot-tall pile of the crisp-battered onions we crave.</p>
<p>At around the size of my fist, each ring is coated with a coating of well-spiced flour-based based batter that reminds me of a thicker version of that found on tempura. I've found (through repeated "research") that the rings are consistently crispy and good all the way down, an important thing to note given the varied scale of crisp to soggy found in most rings. Two small cups of dipping sauce, a ranch and a spicy Cajun, are served to the side to make the whole greasy affair just that much more decadent. It's nothing fancy, but it's a well-made appetizer that can feed a four-top for just under a dollar a person.</p>
<p>I can't say that these rings beat Arkansas Burger Company (or the late, great Papa's Burgers), but they're a strong entrant into the o-ring category. And for this price and quantity, you won't find anything better at Sonic.</p>
<p>Cheddar's Casual Cafe is located at 400 S. University, and they're open for lunch and dinner daily.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Sat, 09 Mar 2013 09:04:04 -0600Arkansas TimesSalty and rude, with a chance of chicken and fishhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/02/18/salty-and-rude-with-a-chance-of-chicken-and-fish
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/02/18/salty-and-rude-with-a-chance-of-chicken-and-fishMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2692188/1361221190-fish.jpg" width="250" height="188" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<p></p>
<p>I don't expect much from chain restaurants. After all, since the purpose of a chain is to provide the exact same experience across multiple locations, there isn't any room for creativity. So when I went into the Geyer Springs location of <strong>Shark's Fish and Chicken</strong>, I figured that I was in for something along the lines of a shotgun marriage between <strong>Captain D's</strong> and <strong>Popeye's</strong> — which was close, if you add in about half a cup of table salt and a heaping helping of stink-eye.</p>
<p>My day job is in Southwest Little Rock, and while I'll be the first to admit that the place is rough around the edges, I've found no shortage of good things to eat served up by friendly folks. I've been in my share of places where the folks behind the counter seemed to think it was a real pain to take my order and serve me food, and Shark's was easily the worst offender in this regard. On a street where the carhops at <em>Sonic</em> of all places give you their first names and tell you to be sure and let them get you whatever you want, there's really no excuse for any chain restaurant to be as rude as this one.</p>
<p>Here's the scene: it's 12:30 on a Sunday afternoon, and I've just failed in my attempt to eat at a new Vietnamese place over on Asher — it's closed despite the "Open 7 Days" emblazoned on the awning out front. The wife expresses a craving for catfish, and since I'm already in Southwest, I figure why not try that Shark's place I'm always driving past. Enter the dining room, we're the only ones there. The Disney channel blares from a TV on the wall. A girl sits behind the counter. She stares at us, unspeaking. A young man stands near her, behind a cash register. He also stares, silent. We walk up, place our orders: one catfish platter, one order of chicken gizzards. The young man writes it down, rings it up, and the first words he speaks to us is our total. We take a seat and wait. And wait. And wait. Finally the order hits the counter and the girl pushes the bags toward us, again without a word. We leave.</p>
<p>So, okay, not the best customer service experience, but the food smells pretty good and we drive back home to dig in. The catfish filets are large, well-cooked — but they're just a touch over-salted. Still, they're edible enough that my wife is happy, and while she says she won't go back again due to the service, her fish is fine. I open my gizzards, and I'm initially pleased: a huge portion of crisp fried gizzards, and there's even hot sauce for dipping. Upon closer inspection, I notice that the gizzards at the top are visibly salty — I can actually see a fine layer of salt on them. Sure enough, first bite, salt bomb. I dig to the bottom, hopping that maybe it's just the top layer that's too salty — no luck. The whole pile of gizzards is rendered completely inedible from a massive dose of salt. Salt in the batter, extra salt on top. I still can't figure out if this is just the way they do things or if this was some sort of revenge for interrupting a quiet Sunday afternoon.</p>
<p>Needless to say, I can't recommend Shark's Fish and Chicken on Geyer Springs to any of you. The service is of the type that gives Southwest Little Rock a bad name, and the suspiciously salty food doesn't help that impression. There's another location on Roosevelt, and one in North Little Rock, and these are possibly better — this was certainly a meal that didn't have be nearly as bad as it was. Have any of you tried the place? Was this just an off day or is it normally like that?</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Mon, 18 Feb 2013 15:20:36 -0600Arkansas TimesThe Great Fast Food French Fry Showdownhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/01/17/the-great-fast-food-french-fry-showdown
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2013/01/17/the-great-fast-food-french-fry-showdownDaniel Walker
<img src="https://media1.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/the-great-fast-food-french-fry-showdown/u/blog/2627479/1358427789-french-fries-300x225.jpg" width="600" height="450" />
<p><strong>French fries</strong>, in all their greasy, golden splendor, are one of the greatest culinary achievements in human history. Indeed, where would the noble cheeseburger be without the accompaniment of its trusty companion, the French fry? Yet despite their fairly basic preparation, only requiring oil, potatoes, and salt, the variation among French fries amongst the millions of restaurants serving them is really quite remarkable. No two establishments are identical in their French fry production, but perhaps due to their relative simplicity and high degree of variability, it is rather simple and straightforward to compare one restaurant's fries to another. <br /> <br />It's easy to look down upon fast food restaurants. Some highly celebrated foodies seem to harbor within themselves a deeply seated hostility for such entities, viewing them as a plague upon the American culinary culture. I don't eat fast food too often, but I hold no contempt for such places. In a pinch, they serve their purpose relatively well, and in my opinion, do not deserve the scorn some have strewn in their direction. <br /> <br />Fast food French fries are consumed by the bucket load on a daily basis. There is certainly no shortage in the Natural State...indeed, somehow McDonald's has managed to win "best fries in Arkansas" numerous times in our <strong>Reader's Choice</strong> poll. This fact caused me to reconsider the merits of the fast food French fry. I realized that I had not eaten the fries of certain fast food restaurants in many years, and in some cases, never. So, in the name of due journalistic diligence, I struck out to sample and score the major fast food fries in central Arkansas. Here's how it went down:<br /> <br /><strong>Total scores</strong> were generated for each restaurant based on a collection of <strong>subscores</strong> (10 points each) representing different pivotal aspects of any respectable French fry. Subscores were totaled and a final score awarded; the six contestants were thus ranked accordingly. <br /> <br />Subscore categories included: <br /><em>Freshness</em> (based primarily upon the temperature at which the fries were served)<br /><em>Potato-ness</em> (or the essence of potato, based primarily on the ability of the fry to retain a natural potato flavor)<br /><em>Seasoning</em> (based primarily on the proper use of salt or other proprietary seasonings applied to the fry)<br /><em>Crispness</em> (obviously, based on the crispness or crunchiness of each fry, or lack of sogginess therein)<br /> <br />Here are the results:<br /> <br /><strong>#6 Sonic</strong>: Freshness: 6, Potato: 2, Seasoning: 1, Crisp: 2= <strong>Total 11/40</strong><br />To my recollection, this was the first time I've ever eaten fries from Sonic...and I thank my lucky stars for this fact. Without a doubt, Sonic served up the poorest portrayal of what a decent French fry should be. There seemed to be almost no seasoning involved; each fry was screaming for a touch of salt. The fries tasted as if they were not even distant relatives of the potato, and perhaps the most unpardonable sin was their limp, lifeless body, almost completely lacking any crispness whatsoever.<br /> <br /><strong>#5 Burger King</strong>: Freshness: 4, Potato: 4, Seasoning: 4, Crisp: 3= <strong>Total 15/40</strong><br />At one point in my life, whilst in the thralls of high school, I really respected the Whopper. This alone brought me back into the palace of The King fairly regularly. But it's been some time since I've had a complete meal at Burger King, and so I was rather surprised by the rather poor showing The King had made in the field of French fries. Overall, I found the fries to be rather uneventful, lacking much freshness, and they quickly became cold. They tasted of unthawed, previously frozen potato and were also poorly seasoned. I was not reluctant to toss the remainder of my uneaten fries in the garbage.</p>
<p><strong>#4 Arbys</strong>: Freshness: 9, Potato: 2, Seasoning: 3, Crisp: 6= <strong>Total 20/40</strong><br />Again, it had been quite some time since I had set foot in an Arby's...likely 5 or 6 years. Yet knowing they were well known for their curly fries, I welcomed the change of pace from their standard long, thin, golden competitors. Overall, Arby's fries were not bad; I particularly felt they were well complimented with ketchup. Their weakness lay in their relative lack of potato flavor. Their flavor was overwhelmed by the breading or coating they received, which essentially tasted only of grease. But they remained palatable, and I did enjoy the playful spring of curls and swirls the fries impart in the mouth given their less commonly encountered shape.<br /> <br /><strong>#3 McDonald's</strong>: Freshness: 6, Potato: 3, Seasoning: 8, Crisp: 5 = <strong>Total 22/40</strong><br />Is there a person alive today who has not eaten the fried offerings of McDonald's? Perhaps one of the single most consumed items in the entire world, the golden fries from the Golden Arches likely need no introduction...but let's consider their place in comparison to their fellow fast food companions. McDonald's fries were almost perfectly seasoned, the right amount of salt to complement the potato, but not so much as to keep you lunging for your Diet Coke every 3 seconds. But I found them to have a rather poor texture and they seemed to leave a slightly bitter flavor in the mouth after consumption. That said, they are reasonable accompaniments to the otherwise uninspiring fare McDonald's is dishing out. Don't even get me started on their chicken nuggets.<br /> <br /><strong>#2 Wendy’s</strong>: Freshness: 8, Potato: 7, Seasoning: 3 Crisp: 5 = <strong>Total 23/40</strong><br />It seems that over the years, Wendy's has worked hard to put their "old fashioned" image behind them and prove to the public that they are still relevant in today's fast food market. One such attempt at relevancy came a number of years ago when Wendy's ditched their traditional fry recipe and began boasting "natural cut" fries flavored with an exotic addition of sea salt. However, I've found these changes to be both a help and a hindrance. I enjoy their so-called "natural-cut" nature. I'm not sure this means much more than they've chosen to simply leave some of the potato skins on, but I feel that, at least, Wendy's fries taste more like potato than any of their competitors. Their Achilles heel, however, is their heavy-handed use of salt. While not every fry in an order is afflicted so, I've frequently found that Wendy's fries can be as pleasant as drinking a mouthful of sea water. Despite this, a touch of ketchup seems to tone down their salinity to a certain degree, and given the sheer abundance of Wendy's locations nationwide, I probably find myself eating these fries more than any other on this list. Whether or not dipping them in your frosty should be illegal is another matter entirely. <br /> <br /><strong>#1 Rally’s</strong>: Freshness: 9, Potato: 6, Seasoning: 9, Crisp: 8 =<strong>Total 32/40</strong><br />I lived most of my early life in a region of Georgia in which Rally's (known as Checker's in those parts) was readily accessible. Given this, our family made frequent visits to our local Rally's whenever Mother was too exhausted to cook or whenever we begged her enough for reprieve from her dreaded tuna casserole. While we enjoyed most of the menu at Rally's at the time, unanimously, our hearts belonged to their fries. After moving away from the South, I was not blessed with the opportunity to sample Rally's fries until I settled down in Arkansas...some 16 years later. The more mature me now realizes that the majority of Rally's menu is rather mediocre, their burgers and chili dogs being no better (and in some cases, worse) than their competitors. But their fries are still glorious. Their unusual dark brown color, their crispy batter-dipped coating, and spicy black pepper-heavy seasoning make for a French fry that deserves much more recognition that it's received. Upon my recent visit, I found the fries hot and fresh, crispy, and flavorful. Are they the greatest fries in Arkansas? No. But they are mighty fine...a standard for what fast food fries could and should be.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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35
Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:36:00 -0600Arkansas TimesLarge portions, bold flavors at Copeland'shttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/12/18/large-portions-bold-flavors-at-copelands
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/12/18/large-portions-bold-flavors-at-copelandsMichael Roberts
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/image/u/blog/2580423/1355859934-photo_22_.jpg" width="250" height="187" style="display:block; float:right;" />
<p></p>
<p>Back in 2008, this publication had a <strong><a href="http://www.arktimes.com/arkansas/do-you-miss-new-orleans/Content?oid=863947">less-than-enthused reaction</a></strong> to the recently opened <strong><a href="http://www.copelandsofneworleans.com/">Copeland's of New Orleans</a></strong> restaurant in the Shackleford Crossing shopping center. Being generally pretty dismissive of chain restaurants myself, I would have taken that review at face value and skipped the place altogether. Lucky for me, some family members tried the place and came back with a verdict that ranged from "not bad" to "pretty terrific," and after trying the place a couple of times myself, I've got to say that they must have settled into a nice groove since that initial review, because I found the food to be tasty, the service to be friendly, and the portions large enough to turn a lunch visit into a respectable dinner of leftovers later.</p>
<p>Of particular note are the two main catfish dishes available, the <strong>Catfish Acadiana</strong> and the <strong>Ricochet Catfish</strong>. The Acadiana is a basic fried catfish filet, large and moist with a firm crust that has just the right amount of spice. This isn't your average piece of fish, though, but rather a dinner-plate sized slab that makes up a larger portion than a three-piece at most catfish joints. Heartier eaters should go for the Ricochet, which takes that same huge filet, encrusts it with pecans, and throws a heaping helping of deep-fried onion strings on top. A tangy "Creole Meuniére" is served to the side for dipping — or for just drenching the whole plate as I did. The fish itself is tender and mild, and as a person picky about muddy-flavored catfish I was pleased with both plates of the river-bed dwelling fish I tried.</p>
<p>Perhaps the most interesting dish on the menu, however, is the <strong>Eggplant Pirogue</strong>: two slices of crisp-fried breaded eggplant over linguine topped with spicy Alfredo sauce, shrimp, and crab claws. Well, okay, to be honest, it was just one crab claw — even though the menu was pretty clear that there were going to be claws present in numbers greater than one. That’s my only complaint with the dish, though, as the eggplant was firm and sweet and the pasta was only just on the edge of being overcooked. The shrimp were flavorful and the creamy sauce didn’t overpower the dish but was great for sopping with the bread Copeland’s serves with all their dishes: a strange hybrid of a biscuit and a dinner roll that was interesting and tasty. I love eggplant, but I usually don’t order it because it comes out soggy and bitter — Copeland’s was neither.</p>
<p>If there's one thing Copeland's needs to work on, it's that the pasta in their dishes can be a bit overcooked, resulting in dishes that are excellent except for some gummy noodles. The seafood, sauces, and starters are all quite tasty, and even dishes from the pared down lunch menu are large enough to feed almost any appetite. Be sure to save room for dessert, though, because the <strong>Carrot Cake</strong> is a must-try. This mammoth slab of three layer cake was dense and moist, with an icing that was richly flavored with cream cheese. Add to the plate a heaping pile of whipped cream and what you have is a platter of cake almost too large for four people to finish despite working as a team. </p>
<p>It's always nice when a chain restaurant manages to break out from the normal mediocre food expected from such places. I don't mind eating my dismissive words when it comes to Copeland's — especially if those words are topped with fried onion straws and served up with red beans and rice.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Tue, 18 Dec 2012 14:06:05 -0600Arkansas TimesTaco Bell's new Dorito tacos: The Untold (Little Rock) Storyhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/03/15/taco-bells-new-dorito-tacos-the-untold-little-rock-story
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/03/15/taco-bells-new-dorito-tacos-the-untold-little-rock-storyDavid Koon
<img src="https://media2.fdncms.com/arktimes/imager/touchdown-tacos-taco-shells-made-from-doritos-page-image/u/blog/2117082/1331841031-todd_mills.jpg" width="600" height="359" />
<p></p>
<p>If you've watched television or been anywhere near a Taco Bell restaurant in recent weeks, you've probably seen the advertisements for their new <a href="http://www.tacobell.com/food/menuitem/Doritos-Locos-Tacos-Supreme">Doritos Locos Tacos</a> — tacos with a shell that's drenched inside and out with the neon-orange cheese dust commonly seen on Doritos brand corn chips. A <a href="http://foodbeast.com/content/2012/02/16/taco-bell-to-launch-nacho-cheese-and-cool-ranch-doritos-taco-shells-live/"> Cool Ranch Doritos version is reportedly in the works and coming soon to a Taco Bell near you.</a> </p>
<p>Could there be a more perfect collision of late-nite drunkchow? Probably not, unless Pizza Hut can figure out a way to make a Cheetos-stuffed pizza crust. That Cheetos-in-a-pizza idea is MINE, by the way. No stealzies. </p>
<p>We bring it up because of the story we heard the other day from <strong>Todd Mills</strong>, vice president, media and information technology at Little Rock Regional Chamber of Commerce. Way back in 2009, Mills was eating a plain ol' non-Doritos taco when a commercial for Doritos came on TV. A lightbulb went off. "I looked at my wife and said: 'How awesome would it be if this taco shell was a Dorito?'" Mills said. </p>
<p>Soon thereafter, Mills started what he called an organic social experiment — a Facebook page called the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/cheesyshells">Taco Shells Made from Doritos Movement</a>. Around the same time, Mills said, he wrote a funny letter to Frito Lay, which makes Doritos, saying it would be great if they could make Doritos taco shells a reality. </p>
<p>Even though he soon received a reply saying that Frito Lay couldn't accept outside ideas about products, Mills kept on with the Taco Shells Made from Doritos page, making and posting funny, Photoshopped pictures of movie characters holding the mythical Doritos shells. Eventually, the page racked up over 3,000 likes. The foodie site <a href="http://foodbeast.com/content/">Food Beast</a> wrote about the TSMFD page, and things really took off. Before long, Mills said, the online food blogs of the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, and Time had linked to the page. The page views soon spiked over a million. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Then, in the middle of February, Mills' phone rang. It was the folks at Taco Bell, inviting Mills out to their headquarters and test kitchens in Irvine, California to taste his fantasy made real (he posted a Photoshop of Willy Wonka's Golden Ticket to mark the occasion). Come to find out, Mills soon learned, Frito Lay had approached Taco Bell in early 2010 (around six months after he says he wrote to them) with the idea of making Doritos-flavored taco shells. It wound up being the biggest product launch in the restaurant's history. </p>
<p>Mills flew to Irvine, got picked up in a limo for a steak dinner, and went to the Taco Bell HQ the next day for a prototype Doritos Locos Taco. Verdict: "It was good. I got one made by the people in the test kitchen, so it was exactly to spec. I've eaten one [in a restaurant] since, and they're good." He wound up getting to meet the CEO of the company, and got some t-shirts and other swag. </p>
<p>As for getting a taste of that sweet, sweet taco money? "Everybody that I tell about this says 'You should be getting some money off these.'" Nevertheless, Mills seems to shrug off the idea that he should lawyer up. "I've never once said that I deserved any sort of compensation," he said. "I can't be the first person to think of this." </p>
<p>On the other hand: "If they wanted to send me a big taco check, that would be alright." </p>
<p>Taco checks? Genius! Why didn't WE think of that?</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:01:00 -0500Arkansas TimesChain Link: Red Lobsterhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/01/02/chain-link-red-lobster
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2012/01/02/chain-link-red-lobsterKat Robinson
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<p>I can already hear the groans from the foodist elite amongst our readership. There’s a line that certain folks have forged here between the folks who know food and the sheep… and that line is <strong>Red Lobster</strong>.</p>
<p>For me, this review is a little bit of full circle. When I left my TV job back in 2007, my anchors gave me a Red Lobster gift card as a parting gift. They chose the popular seafood chain for this honor because my husband and I had visited the restaurant once a month for several years. Thing is, once that gift card was used, I wouldn’t head back there for years. I was already deep into my research on Arkansas restaurants, a budding hobby in 2007 that lead to my personal blog, to Eat Arkansas and to all sorts of opportunities since.</p>
<p>I had my own reason for liking what the place had to offer. Crab legs. That really is it. For a while I enjoyed them at Micky’s Bluefish in Conway, then that place closed. I could get them in Hot Springs at Fisherman’s Wharf, but usually when I am in Hot Springs I’m trying restaurants out so I don’t head that way often. I can get King crab legs at Cajun’s Wharf, but I really prefer snow crab… the less expensive choice. Crab legs cheap that I don’t boil up myself at home? Just not a lot of places I can do that.</p>
<p>So when I was offered dinner at a Red Lobster location, I hemmed and hawed and acquiesced because I really did want some damn crab legs. Really.</p>
<p>Of course, we get there and I was immediately disappointed in the menu. It’s a lot smaller than it used to be — and my favorite appetizer, the Ultimate Fondue, was gone. I’d find out later from internet browsing that the formulation had been changed, people didn’t like it and it went away. I do have a recipe for it that’s close… and maybe if someone comes to the house and convinces me to pull out the double boiler I’ll make up some. </p>
<p>Instead, we went for some Crispy Calamari and Vegetables ($8.75), which turned out to be breaded and deep fried calamari rings, broccoli and red bell pepper. They coulda kept the broccoli, but I probably feel that way because I think broccoli anywhere past steamed is only an ingredient. The red bell pepper bits were delicious… and the calamari was… decent. A little heavy on the grease if you ask me, but what the heck. It was all right, especially with a little cocktail sauce.</p>
<p>We kept waiting for our biscuits… and got them when we got our salads. And the salads were fine, just not interesting. The biscuits, though — personally, I believe the Cheddar biscuits that come complimentary with any meal are the main reason folks keep coming back. They are good. They are buttery and cheesy and rich and probably lethal but they are great. And here’s a secret for you. Chicken Mart up in Russellville gets them every once in a while, frozen, six for $3. No instructions on cooking them, but I find that 350 degrees for 12 minutes does it just fine. Same freaking biscuits.</p>
<p>So… my companion chose the Admiral‘s Feast ($17.99), a veritable plethora of battered and deep fried items more identifiable by their shapes than anything else on the outside. The portions were decent — two flat-hand size fillets of flounder, about ¾ cup tiny fried scallops (some of which I stole), about a cup’s worth of crispy clam strips and eight Walt’s Favorite Shrimp, along with a baked potato. A big field of tasty, slightly crispy deep fried brown on a blue rimmed plate. </p>
<p>I had considered the Ultimate Feast ($24.99) with its Walt’s Famous Shrimp, a whole broiled lobster tail, garlic shrimp scampi and crab legs. Thought about it. Then I realized what I really wanted were just the damn crab legs, so that’s what I ordered — a pound of snow crab legs for $17.75 (which included the aforementioned salad and a side item). I got this really weird delivery, too — a casserole dish packed with the steamed legs, a big platter with nothing on it but a ball of “homestyle” mashed potatoes” and a little plate with melted butter, a crab cracking tool and a lemon wedge. And a wet wipe — that’s important, you know.</p>
<p>And for the next 30 minutes or so I happily cracked away at the crab while enjoying a conversation… as the dang restaurant emptied out around us. Indeed, we were the last people out the door, about three minutes before actual closing time. </p>
<p>Were the crab legs good? They were… but then again, they were crab legs. They were just lightly seasoned and served up and really, all the work was up to me. I guess I’m like the old guys who like to crack and eat pecans or peanuts rather than let someone else do it for them. I just like that.</p>
<p>The bill was in the $50 range. My companion had leftovers. It was all right. </p>
<p>I can see why people get into the habit of going to this chain. They advertise all over the place. They offer gift cards at Kroger and Wal-Mart. They do all sorts of promotions. For a good portion of the nation, especially away from the coasts, Red Lobster really is the name of seafood for plain folks.</p>
<p>Then again, I’ve learned so much in the past four years. I’ve learned where to find just about any sort of food I’m interested in (well, except Ethiopian; until we get an Ethiopian restaurant somewhere I’m going to have to settle for homemade doro wat) and where to get the best cheap eats. If I’ve tried to do anything with this blog, it’s been to try to educate folks that there are other alternatives for date night eats.</p>
<p>No real need to tell you where Red Lobster is… but of course, I should mention that the North Little Rock location is perennially one of the highest gross-revenue restaurants in the state. Well, there you go. Check out the <a href="http://www.redlobster.com/">Red Lobster website</a> if you really need more information.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Mon, 02 Jan 2012 08:45:21 -0600Arkansas TimesChain Link: Famous Dave's BBQhttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2011/11/30/chain-link-famous-daves-bbq
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2011/11/30/chain-link-famous-daves-bbqKat Robinson
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<p>I went to check out another chain restaurant this week, thanks to a recommendation from Janelle, who mentioned that the fries at <strong>Famous Dave’s BBQ</strong> are pretty awesome. Okay, challenge accepted.</p>
<p>We made it a family outing, stopping by one night to get some grub and feed the girl child. Hunter, like most toddlers, likes a good French fry, so we ordered her a chicken finger and fries kids meal ($3.99). And we stole some of her fries — which was par for the course, since she stole our cobs of corn. And yes, they are crispy on the outside, slightly battered and soft on the inside. A good fry.</p>
<p>But how’s the barbecue?</p>
<p>To cover a little bit of everything, the hubster and I both chose the Two Meat BBQ Combo ($13.79), which included two choices of meat, two choices of side items, corn on the cob and a sweet corn muffin. How sweet’s that muffin? You can smell the Yankee in it from across the room. SWEET. Like cake. Not that it wasn’t edible, it’s just not cornbread like we’d serve here in the South.</p>
<p>The meat choices include Texas beef brisket, Georgia pulled pork, Southside rib tips, barbecue or country roasted chicken, chicken tenders, hot link sausage and traditional or boneless chicken wings. Side items include Wilbur beans (beans with beef and pork), creamy coleslaw, drunken apples, garlic red skin mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, “firecracker” green beans, potato salad, steamed broccoli, mac and cheese and fries. Thanks to all those choices we were able to come up with two completely different dinners easily.</p>
<p>The hubster got the rib tips and the boneless chicken wings — which he had done up with the Rich & Sassy barbecue sauce (the other choices being Georgia mustard that’s rather vinegary, Sweet & Zesty that borders on being too sweet, Texas Pit that’s strong on the black pepper and Devil Spit — you can imagine how that one goes). The rib tips were plentiful and they looked marvelous… sure, they had bits of cartilage to work around, but they were juicy and had a nice somewhat sweet rub on them. He loved the boneless wings — which were far more like chicken tenders with sauce on them, in my honest opinion. For his side items he went with the creamy coleslaw and the mashed potatoes — both of which were fine but not extraordinary. For some reason they’d included some celery and carrot sticks with ranch dressing — which, for the most part, he ignored.</p>
<p>I had chosen the barbecue chicken and the Texas brisket. The chicken was fall-off-the-bone soft, smoky and juicy but missing something… I don’t know, it really did need some sauce to kick it up, and a little bit of the Georgia mustard did all right with it. I was far more impressed with the spoon tender brisket, which fell apart at the poke. The slices were served up on a piece of Texas toast that caught about all of that fatty juice… not that I’m saying I minded that.</p>
<p>I chose the mashed sweet potatoes and the mac and cheese as my side items. The sweet potatoes were a puree with a bare little bit of brown sugar on them. They were listed in the menu as being less than 100 calories a serving… which, yes, I’m sure that’s grand but they lacked in salt and texture. The mac and cheese was far more interesting; Dave’s Macaroni and Cheese contained little bits of jalapeno and kernels of corn, which gave it a different texture and a more amusing flavor with just a tiny bit of heat to it. </p>
<p>As I said, Hunter confiscated our cobs of corn, which like the corn muffins come with everything. On this trip we didn’t get around to dessert — honestly, I asked for my box less than halfway into my dish and the hubster did likewise. It was a lot of food..</p>
<p>A few years ago I’d be complaining about the price, but the way food costs have been going up lately, Famous Dave’s seems pretty much on target. Still, I could go get most of what they offered down the road at Whole Hog and would have something a little more local than a chain out of Minnesota. I think I’d have picked up a lot more smokehouse flavor, too. For a Northern chain, Famous Dave’s really isn’t that bad, but it seems to be missing soul. </p>
<p>Our local location is on Shackleford Road right next to Sekisui. (501) 221-3283 or check out the Little Rock menu on the <a href="http://www.famousdaves.com/menu/?LocationID=166">Famous Dave’s website</a>.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Wed, 30 Nov 2011 10:45:51 -0600Arkansas TimesChain Link: Cheddar'shttps://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2011/11/02/chain-link-cheddars
https://www.arktimes.com/RockCandy/archives/2011/11/02/chain-link-cheddarsKat Robinson
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<p>There are several restaurants that fall within the sphere of typical middle-class restaurant. Chili’s, Applebee’s and TGIFriday’s are pretty interchangeable in this matter.</p>
<p>Not so much with<strong> Cheddar’s Casual Café</strong>. The chain spanning the South and the Midwest features a lot of hearty sandwiches, lush sandwiches, steaks, half-pound burgers and the like — but it’s more about the food than the décor or the attitude or the flair you might get from those other establishments.</p>
<p>My dining companion and I dropped by for lunch at the Fort Smith location recently (the new Little Rock location on University by Target just opened). We started off with the cheese dip, which we suspected might be Cheddar-heavy, after the restaurant’s name. Not quite. The Chips & Homemade Queso ($3.99) is a platter of thick fried tortilla chips accompanied by a very Velveeta-and-Rotel-ish dip, offered with ground beef at no additional charge. We passed on the ground beef but savored especially the salsa that came with the cheese dip — cumin heavy, onion heavy and with nice fresh overtones.</p>
<p>My dining companion’s selection for the afternoon was the Grilled Portabella Ciabata $6.99), a big fat sandwich packed with thick mushroom slices, seared tomatoes, herbed mayonnaise, spring mix and Fontina cheese. The ciabata roll gives heft to a meat-less sandwich and it eats well, nicely savory with the salty cheese. He chose a loaded baked potato sans bacon for his side, and it came out piled high with Cheddar cheese.</p>
<p>I was much better pleased with the heart of my dish, the Key West Chicken & Shrimp ($8.99). A nicely grilled chicken breast topped with a pineapple based pico de gallo and grilled shrimp, the chicken was nicely flavored and not overdone while the shrimp were salty but firm. I loved the pico’s sweetness. The chicken breast was served up on a small bed of rice.</p>
<p>What was questionable was the side items. I chose beans and rice after being assured they were vegetarian-friendly; it came out with a nice piece of pork summer sausage on top. Fortunately, there was no issue in switching it out with corn. The broccoli that came along with the meal was nicely steamed. I found my favorite part of the meal, though, came with dipping the broccoli in the aforementioned cheese dip.</p>
<p>We passed on dessert but a nearby table ordered the Cheddar’s Legendary Monster Cookie ($3.99) — a big chocolate chip cookie cooked in a skillet and served warm with ice cream on top. It’s a nice massive affair, a lovely thing to have if you’re trying to feed your sweet tooth, but I’d recommend sharing it with a friend.</p>
<p>The Cheddar’s we went to is located at the Fort Smith Pavilion off Phoenix Avenue at I-540; as I mentioned, there’s a new one on University in Little Rock. <a href="http://www.cheddars.com/Restaurants%20And%20Menus/index.php?state=Arkansas">Check out the website for more information</a>.</p>
Chain LinkEat Arkansas
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Wed, 02 Nov 2011 11:00:39 -0500Arkansas Times