Bariloche, nestled along the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi and surrounded by snow-capped peaks serves as the gateway to the playland of Patagonia.

The Rio Negro province’s largest city offers not only postcard-worthy views but alpine-style comforts from which to explore Argentina’s Lakes District.

Ever since Europeans landed in the area, Bariloche has been called the ‘Switzerland of Argentina’ due to the cultural influence of the immigrants who settled here.

Establishing Argentina’s ‘Switzerland’

In 1895, Carlos Wiederhold, a Chilean of German descent, built a general store in Bariloche called ‘La Alemana’ (‘The German’).

Seven years later President Julio Argentino Roca, — eager to secure claims of Argentinean land in Patagonia amidst border disputes — officially decreed the village an agricultural settlement named ‘San Carlos de Bariloche,’ after its founder.

In 1903, academic and explorer Francisco ‘Perito’ Moreno donated 19000 acres of land here to the government, paving the way for the creation of Argentina’s national park system in 1934.

Argentina was one of the world’s richest nations at the time and was the third country to establish a national park system, after the United States and Canada.

Originally known as Parque Nacional del Sur, Nahuel Huapi was Argentina’s first national park, followed closely by Iguazu Falls National Park.

Today Nahuel Huapi National Park spans over two million acres and includes the city of Bariloche.

Argentina’s economic crisis at the turn of the 21st century meant suddenly the country was affordable for foreigners. The city welcomed more international visitors than ever before, particularly from Israel and Europe.

Today, the town is nicknamed ‘Braziloche’ thanks to its popularity with vacationing Brazilians.

Locals in the tourism industry speak not only English, but also Portuguese – or at least the Spanish-Portuguese mix dubbed, ‘Portuñol.’

With a thriving chocolate industry and romantic getaways such as Isla Corazon (Heart Island) Bariloche is also famed as a honeymoon destination.

Mapuches: The Indigenous Roots of Bariloche

Hunter-gatherer tribes migrated south to this area at least 10,600 years ago.

Three native tribes occupied the Nahuel Huapi area: the Puelches in the mountain grasslands, the Tehuelches along the eastern and southern shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake, and Mapuche who lived along the northern part of the Limay river up to Lanin Volcano.

Small groups of families lived clustered together and used the lakes and rivers as trade routes.

The Spaniards first landed in Lake Nahuel Huapi in 1620 but it wasn’t until 1760 that Jesuit missionaries began to document the native population here.

The Mapuche people were universally recognized as the most courageous natives in the area. They spoke ‘Veliche’, a dialect of ‘Mapudungun,’ a language shared among different tribes stretching from Aconcagua to southern Patagonia.

‘Bariloche’ got its name from the Mapudungun word ‘Vuriloche,’ or ‘people who live between the mountains.’

(The common Argentine address of ‘che’, meaning ‘people’ also comes from Mapudungun.)

While the original Jesuit missionaries, led by Father Nicolo Mascardi, lived peacefully with the locals, the tribes withheld their secret trade roots from the foreigners, which initially helped them defend their territory throughout Patagonia and Chile’s Araucania region at the start of the government’s deadly ‘Desert Conquest’ campaign.

The military campaign, led by then-General Julio Argentino Roca decimated the indigenous population.

Thousands of Mapuche were killed in the fighting and tens of thousands were displaced.

In the 135 years since the Mapuche have continued to experience marginalization and human rights abuses.

It wasn’t until 2006 that the indigenous remaining in the area received reparations for their lost legacy.

The restitution, managed by the Nahuel Huapi National Park administration, includes property rights of ancestral lands for three Mapuche communities and a co-management program of the national park.

The Lof-Wiritrai, who live on the northeast shores of Mascardi Lake, operate a camping and a cultural center.

The Lof-Huenchupan, run the Villegas River area along route 40 on the way to El Bolson. They focus on native sustainable practices such as harvesting rainwater and replanting native trees and medicinal plants.

The Lof-Kinxikex, who settled in the northern area of the National Park en route to Villa la Angostura and Los Arrayanes National Park, oversee a hunting area and commercial craft workshop.

In recent years, tensions between the Mapuche and the Argentine government have increased as capital interests come head-to-head with the ancestral land claims of the minority indigenous community.

Native Folk Tales & Andean Cave Art

A few Mapuche stories are still well-known among Bariloche locals.

The most popular is the folk tale of Nahuelito — Argentina’s version of the Loch Ness Monster.

The original Mapuche story, called ‘trülke wekufü‘ meaning ‘leather,’ refers to a mythical cowhide that turns into a mutant creature similar to a large snake.

In 1988 Río Negro’s daily newspaper published a picture of a strange creature on the lake, reviving the legend.

Modern versions of the Nahuelito legend claim the creature inhabiting in the waters of Lake Nahuel Huapi is similar to an ancient plesiosaur.

The story of Nahuelito endures although the lakes of Patagonia were formed long after the extinction of dinosaurs.

Nahuel Huapi National Park contains 88 archaeological sites considered ‘sites of National Importance’ by the nation’s Culture Ministry.

Hikers can visit these sites on their own by renting a car or hiring a local driver familiar with the area.

The Creation of Bariloche’s Downtown

Bariloche’s Mitre’s street after a snowfall

In the 1930s Argentine National Park service’s director, Exequiel Bustillo, hired his brother Alejandro to create a ‘garden city’ that would serve as the hopping off point to Nahuel Huapi National Park.

The cathedral, and local iconic hotels such as Llao Llao and Puerto Blest Hostel were built in the trademark Bariloche style with cypress wood and larch tiles.

In 1940 the Bariloche Civic Center was inaugurated. The stone complex, shaped like the letter U, was meant to be ‘one-stop shopping’ for everything including city hall, the central library, the customs office, post office, a telegraph office and the town’s main museum.

The civic center was declared a National Historic Monument in 1987.

Bariloche’s downtown hasn’t changed much since it emerged as a holiday destination in the 1930s, aside from more lodging establishments and the retirement of the telegraph office.

Attractions, Activities & Shopping in Downtown Bariloche

Downtown Bariloche can easily be explored by foot.

The Civic Center plaza remains a central meeting spot. An enduring pastime for tourists strolling through the plaza is to snap a photo with a Saint Bernard dog, the unofficial mascot of Bariloche.

The Francisco P. Moreno Patagonia Museum in the Civic Center is small but worth a visit for its quirky curation. The museum’s exhibits span the area’s prehistoric indigenous civilizations through to the colonial conquest, up until modern day Bariloche.

The permanent exhibit of Patagonia’s unique flora and fauna highlights endemic species such as the Challhuaco frog and the endangered but nevertheless hearty bucktooth rodent called the Colonial Tuco Tuco (Ctenomys sociabilis).

The nearby Cathedral of Our Lady of Nahuel Huapi, named for the patron saint of Bariloche, is the town’s iconic neo-gothic cathedral.

The 1944 church rests overlooking the lake near the civic center. Peek inside to see the stained-glass panel depicting the stations of the cross.

The rose garden on the grounds are also a popular spot for photos in spring.

For a less pious attraction head to the Ice Bar on Spain St., near Bariloche’s main street, Mitre. The bar, made entirely of ice, is open all year and is where a ‘yeti’ greets visitors with a fur coat to warm them up on a cold winter day.

There are two public ice-skating rinks in town where visitors can rent skates and take whirl.

Downtown on Mitre Street is a rink in the popular Rapanui artisanal chocolate shop and cafeteria, which is a worthwhile stop on its own for a hot chocolate after burning some calories on the ice.

A couple of blocks away along the shore, is Nevinska Bariloche, another ice rink where visitors can take a class on Saturday mornings.

Shopping

Bariloche is known more for its activities than its shopping, but there are a handful of downtown boutiques with beautiful handmade items.

The municipal handicraft fair takes place in the summer, behind the Civic Center in the Derechos de la Mujer plaza. Some of the most unique items to take home are the clothes and blankets made with hand-spun and dyed wool created by the Zuem Mapuche collective at Moreno and Villegas streets.

At other times of year check out the La Casa de los Artesanos at Ada María Elflein and Morales streets.

Serious shoppers will want to visit the largest artisanal fair in the region a couple of hours away in the laid back town of El Bolson, where an outdoor craft fair takes place three days a week.

Bariloche’s Cuisine

Bariloche is Patagonia’s most celebrated destination for gastronomy, as Anthony Bourdain discovered in 2007 filming his program here.

Bariloche is most famous for its chocolate, ranging from milk chocolate to dark unsweetened chocolate with 100% cacao.

Chocoholics will want to make a beeline to Mamushka, Bariloche’s most renowned chocolate shop. They also have ice cream and continually are inventing new flavors, such as pineapple and ginger and almond honey-cinnamon nougat.

Chocolate lovers on a budget usually head to the nearby ‘Del Tourista,’ also known as the ‘Tourist Shop,’ for free samples and to stock up on more affordable chocolate.

Booze unique to Bariloche

Local fine wines and champagnes from the coldest zones of the Rio Negro Valley will surprise connoisseurs.

While the most popular Argentinian wines are produced in Mendoza, Cafayate, and the Neuquén and San Juan provinces, Río Negro has its own ‘wine route’, with wine cellars such Emilce Notaro and Bodega Humberto Canale.

When it comes to booze though, Bariloche is most celebrated for its hand-crafted beer.

Most people order the local bitter red IPA, made with regional hop that is hard to find anywhere else, apart from the United States.

One of Argentina’s most recognized breweries, ‘Cervecería Patagonia’ is 20 kilometers from downtown.

Today owned by the Anheuser-Busch group, the brewery is surrounded by its own hops plantation and offers Instagram-worthy views overlooking the city.

Patagonia’s Amber Lager was Patagonia’s original variety. In 2010 they introduced the Bohemian Pilsener and Weisse. In 2015 they released their Patagonia Pale Ale, named ‘Küné’ meaning ‘twins’ in Mapuche, in honor of the Victoria and Mapuche hop used in its preparation.

Budget travelers can take bus number ten from downtown Bariloche to reach the brewpub. Happy hour is from 6:30 until 8:30 p.m.

Another pub beer lovers won’t want to miss is Ceverceria Blest, the area’s first microbrewery, which opened over 30 years ago.

For artisanal beer downtown, try Manush, popular with locals for its beer and ample something-for-everyone menu. Manush has a location in the center of Bariloche and another outside of town along the water toward Villa Campanario and Villa Suiza.

To try the ultimate Bariloche treat, RapaNui chocolate shop offers a Berlina Imperial Stout and a Chocolate RapaNui ‘Choco beer’, made with 90% cacao from Colombia.

Bariloche Lake Tours

Patagonia lake excursions are classic in Argentina that everyone from retired couples to families with small kids, school groups and independent travelers can enjoy.

The two most common lake destinations are Isla Victoria and the Arrayanes Forest, and Puerto Blest.

Isla Victoria (Victoria Island)

The boat that goes to Isla Victoria is the famous Modesta Victoria. Eva Duarte de Perón, Barack Obama, and Argentina’s former President, Mauricio Macri have all ridden this boat.

Known as the ‘Lady of the Lake’ it is a European-style navy boat. The 39-meter-long boat was built in Amsterdam in 1937. It has three teak-wood decks, bronze fittings, alabaster lampshades and a specially designed rudder.

The tour rides along Lake Nahuel Huapi for an hour before reaching the Quetrihué Peninsula.

Disembark to walk along an easy path of boardwalk through the Arrayan (Myrtle) Forest, a landscape which inspired animator, Walt Disney, before reaching the ‘Casita del Bosque‘ (Forest House).

The all wood ‘casita del bosque‘ (forest house) is also called ‘the Disney House,’ because this landscape was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s ‘Bambi’.

The second stop on the 7700-acre Victoria Island is Anchorena Port.

Here visitors see unique vegetation of Patagonia on a walk to Playa del Toro, where there is cave art left by the former indigenous inhabitants. The Victoria Island and Myrtle Forest tour ends on a lovely volcanic sand beach.

Puerto Blest & Los Canteros Waterfall

The trip to Puerto Blest starts off with an hour-long sail through the Blest branch of Nahuel Huapi Lake and past Centinela Island, the resting place of Perito Moreno (the ‘Godfather’ of Argentina’s national parks) and passing the impressive Canteros Waterfall.

Here the hiking trail goes through the lush vegetation of the Valvidian Forest until reaching Los Cántaros Lake, where a 1,500 year old Larch tree can be observed.

After another short boat ride, the tour reaches Puerto Blest. Here visitors can see Lago Frías, yet another glacier-made lake which is famous for its bright viridescent water.

All of Bariloche’s lake excursions depart from Pañuelo Port, located 25 kilometers from downtown on the Llao Llao peninsula.

To get to Port Pañuelo visitors have the option to take public bus n°20, hire a car, or book the full service tours listed below, which include pickup:

The boats depart at 9:00 a.m. During the summer season there is a second excursion at 2:00 p.m.

‘Bariloche’s Scenic Road Trips: Short Loop and Long Loop’

‘Circuito Chico (Short loop) and Panoramic Point,’ a two-hour trip through the west part of Bariloche, includes stops at Pañuelo Port, San Eduardo Chapel, Tacul Village, Mount Llao Llao, Colonia Suiza, and Morenito Lake.

All along this route there are short easy hikes. One of the most popular is the Lago Escondido, or ‘Hidden Lake’ walking trail.

Another is the steep but short climb up Mount Llao Llao, and through the Arrayán (Myrtle) forest, similar to the myrtle forest found on Victoria Island.

Head to ‘Don Goye’, where the real Sr. Victor Goye, grandson of the village founders, cooks up curanto every Wednesday and Sunday (reservations recommended).

Also worth a visit is the village museum where another Goye descendant oversees a collection of knick-knacks from the Swiss Village’s original pioneer families.

On Sundays there is an artisanal fair in the Swiss Colony.

Sports and Activities to Do Around Bariloche

A notable attraction of Bariloche is its setting in an ecologically diverse area.

Within 100 kilometers there are three different ecosystems: grassland plains, natural woodland, and mountainous rainforests. The area lends itself to all sorts treks and outdoor activities.

Hiking and Mountaineering

Since its founding of Bariloche has enjoyed a reputation as a mountaineering paradise. Here Europeans escaped a tumultuous post-war Europe while practicing skiing, trekking and mixed rock and ice climbing.

The Club Andino, or Andean Club, formed by Europeans who settled in the area, was central to establishing the outdoor industry and today visitors of all fitness levels enjoy trails ranging from short, easy day hikes to ten-day hut-to-hut treks.

Skiing and Snowboarding in Bariloche

The ‘Switzerland of Argentina,’ is quite cold and snowy in winter with freezing temperatures at night and warmer temperatures during the day.

Hiking and vehicle tours are limited due to snow and ice, but when it comes to winter sports, Bariloche is one of South America’s top ski and snow sport destinations.

During the late spring and summer mountain bikers can cheat by grabbing the ski lift up Mount Cathedral with their bike and riding down the 700 meter drop.

Sport Fishing

November to April is this area of Patagonia’s fishing season. Bariloche is very popular for fly fishing, spinning and trolling.

The most popular lakes for sport fishing in the Bariloche area are Mascardi, Steffen, Los Moscos, Hess, Roca and Fonk lakes, in the southern part of the National Park.

In the Traful River valley it’s said that even the unluckiest fishermen or women are almost guaranteed a bite. Here there are huge salmon as well rainbow, brook and brown trout.

A fishing permit can be purchased at the park’s administrative office or in kiosks in downtown Bariloche. Don’t forget to get a permit, as illegal fishing is taken seriously and fines are steep.

During the off-season fishing is catch-and-release only.

Sport Hunting

Hunting in Patagonia is regulated by the National Park. Certain areas of Nahuel Huapi National Park are designated areas to hunt ciervo rojo and javalí (red deer and boar), which are considered invasive species because they prevent the regrowth of the forest.

Hunters must get a permit for their guns before entering the country. Plan with plenty of time because the permit also needs to be notarized. Once in Argentina, hunters must get a hunting permit from the provincial government.

Check this link to get learn about how to meet the requirements to hunt in Argentina. (*This blog encourages responsible, sustainable travel and does not promote sport hunting. We urge you to consume the meat or donate it to a local community to eat.)

Paragliding

Paragliding, known as parapente in Spanish, is a popular, if newer, past time for the adventurous in Bariloche. No experience in needed to do a tandem jump here (although we would recommend travel insurance!)

Make sure an introductory class is included with the jump — any reputable paragliding company will have a thorough preparation class. The most popular take off point for paragliding is Mount Otto.

Ziplining

Ziplining is among the more modern activities that can be enjoyed in Bariloche. Ziplines offer a chance to see the Patagonia forests from high up while enjoying a gravity-induced adrenaline rush.

Getting to and Around Bariloche

Traditionally domestic travelers have taken the long but comfortable 24-hour bus ride to reach Bariloche by bus.

Today flying to Bariloche is more accessibly priced, thanks to the introduction of budget airlines to Argentina, but when making reservations beware that delays and cancellations are frequent on the budget airlines.

Bariloche’s airport is only ten minutes from town and getting a taxi there is much more straight forward than at Buenos Aires’ international airport.

Public transportation is somewhat sparse in Bariloche, with a public bus service being the only local means of transportation. Bus riders will need a subte smart card that can be purchased in convenience stores in Buenos Aires, Bariloche or other major cities of Argentina.

Popular lines such as the 10 to the Swiss Colony and Cerveceria Patagonia and the 20 to Puerto Pañuelo run all night.

In the winter, skiers and snowboarders may want a car to get to the resorts if their hotel is not within walking distance, as the bus to Cerro Catedral ski resort from downtown only leaves once an hour.

When to Go to Bariloche

Most visitors go to Bariloche in the winter or summer.

In the summertime the city receives a lot of porteños (people from Buenos Aires) looking to escape the city heat and enjoy activities on the lakes, as well as international tourists, among them many hikers.

For skiing and other snow sports visitors will want to go to in the winter months between June and September, with July and August being the high season.

Be aware when booking your trip that Bariloche is the traditional destination for students taking their winter senior trip. The town becomes overrun with high school students from mid-July to early August (when Bariloche also has its two-day ‘Snow Festival’).

During that time the buses fill up quickly, the lift lines are long, and a lot of amateur skiers are on the slopes.

Going to Bariloche in the off-season can be a good way to save money. In June, at the beginning of the ski season, there may not be much snow, but early September is a good time to enjoy spring-like conditions on the slopes and avoid the throngs of high school kids.

As in Buenos Aires, the spring months of October and November are lovely in Bariloche and are good months to enjoy spring flowers and bird watching.

Accommodations in and around Bariloche

The accommodations in Bariloche ranges from romantic getaways tucked into the mountains to party hostels in the city, family-friendly resorts along Nahuel Huapi lake and basic mountain huts for hikers run by the Andean Club

The most famous hotel in Bariloche —if not all of Argentina — is the luxury Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, 26 kilometers from downtown.

It offers all the usual five-star resort amenities, an 18-hole golf course, five in-house restaurants and amazing views of Mount Tronador and Mount Lopez.

*None of the businesses mentioned in this article are sponsored placements. While many blogs earn income by paid placements, we prefer to provide unbiased opinions and instead work directly with our wonderful guests to offer excellent value trips and services.

Feel free to get in touch and ask us about our customized travel packages — no overseas travel agent can match our great value vacation packages.

Argentina’s Historic Route 40

The road that initially leads visitors to Mount Tronador is the historic Route 40.

One of the longest roads in the world, RN 40 is Argentina’s counterpart to the U.S.A.’s Route 66, Australia’s Stuart Highway, and Canada’s Trans-Canada highway.

The road is also known as ‘Libertador General Don José de San Martín,’ in honor of revolutionary and star of the five-peso bill.

‘Ruta 40’ stretches across Argentina from La Quiaca in the northern Jujuy province to Cabo las Vírgenes, at the tip of the country in Santa Cruz province.

For many years, RN 40 was a gravel road memorialized for its ruggedness by travelers such as English novelist, Bruce Chatwin, who wrote about it in his classic, La Patagonia.

In 2004, Route 40 was decreed a National Site of Tourist Interest and paving began. Today Route 40 is almost fully paved.

Argentina and Chile’s Natural Boundary

From Bariloche, go south on route 40 for about 15 kilometers until reaching Gutierrez Lake in a zone known as ‘the Water Division.’

This huge wetland, called ‘Mallín’ in the indigenous Mapuche language, was formed during a stationary phase of the Ice-Age.

When the glaciers reemerged, they formed what today is the Gutierrez Lake basin.

This huge wetland changed the direction of the water flow. On one hand Gutierrez Lake is part of the Nahuel Huapi basin which, along with the Limay river, flows out to the Atlantic Ocean, while Mascardi Lake like most western side lakes and rivers, flows into the Pacific.

Until the 18th century the natural watersheds were considered the natural border between Chile and Argentina, but when explorer and academic, Francisco Pascasio Moreno proved that the course of the rivers could be changed, the government declared that the boundary between the countries should cross from the highest peaks of the Andes Mountain ranges, including Mount Tronador.

Activities on Lake Gutiérrez: ‘Eye of God’ Lake

The glacier transformation that took part in this region millions of years ago created magical scenery of wild nature surrounded by various-sized lakes.

Gutiérrez Lake is in a valley surrounded by Otto hill, Cathedral and De la Ventana mountains. The native Tehuelches named this lake, ‘The eye of God’ and later the Mapuche tribe called it Carre Lauquen, meaning ‘Green Lake.’

After the Julio Argentino Roca-led genocide against indigenous peoples, in 1877 the original names were supplanted by ‘Gutiérrez’ — the name of a the head of the Ministry of the Interior, who was also a mentor to Moreno.

Pristine Gutiérrez Lake is perfect for fishing, kayaking or stand up paddle. Since it is sourced by rainwater and not melting glaciers, it’s warmer than Nahuel Huapi Lake and has many small sandy beaches and camping areas along its shores.

The Coihue forest, named after the evergreen tree of the same name, offers a lush area for horse riding and trekking tours. Villa Los Coihues also has a paleontological museum where visitors can appreciate the geological evolution of Patagonia, one of the densest areas for dinosaur fossil discoveries in the world. To find the ranger post walk two kilometers from the Coihue Village along the western part of the Gutierrez Lake, or take the public bus n°50 on the frontage road.

Heading up from Mascardi Village

For those visiting Mount Tronador and the Black Glacier on their own it’s important to check the car’s oil levels in the ACA gas station in Mascardi Village, because it’s the last place to do so before ascending. This outpost, 27 kilometers from Coihue Village, was built 1940 by the Christiani & Nielsen construction company, famed for constructing the Civic Center in Bariloche.

It’s is also a lookout point of the next stop, Mascardi Lake, known as ‘Seven Colors Lake’ because of the color variation it has during all seasons of the year.

Named after a 17th-century Jesuit missionary, its surface area is 40 square kilometers. The 200 meter-deep lake is formed in a V shaped with two arms formed from the melting glacier’s path. The Cathedral arm is seen first,where the Guillelmo stream flows into it. This crossing point is where to verge right onto the rubble province road 82 that leads toward Tronador and Cascada de los Alerces.

The Tronador Route & Isla Corazón

Five hundred meters up the road is the the ranger station where visitors pay the approximately US$10 entrance fee to enter Nahuel Huapi National Park (important: it can only be paid in cash — in pesos, other currencies are not accepted).

The road then goes along the Playa Negra (Black Beach) with a view of Mount Bonete, the Ande’s fifth highest peak in the background.

After nine kilometers the road reaches the Los Rápidos Campground. The area get its name, meaning the ‘the rapids’ because this is where the Manso river flows off the Rio Manso Glacier – one of the fourteen on Mount Tronador – and finally flows out into Mascardi Lake. The Manso River contains a great quantity of glacier minerals so it appears brilliant green in sunlight. During the fishing season, this is a perfect place for fisherman to cast a line — it’s considered fairly easy to catch native Brook, Brown and Rainbow trout here.

Fifteen minutes up the road from Los Rapidos is the lookout point for Isla Corazón (Heart Island) — or ‘Piuké Huapí’ in the Mapuche language — in the Tronador arm of Mascardi Lake. This heart-shaped island gets its name from a Mapuche-style Romeo and Juliet drama involving ancient enemy tribes.

The legend goes that two young lovers were separated by their rival families, so they kept their relation secret until they were caught together and rounded up on the border of Mascardi Lake. The two lovers had no other option but to jump into the cold water to try and swim to the opposite shore. While crossing they started to feel the symptoms of hypothermia so they embraced each other to keep their bodies warm. According to the legend, after the lovers drowned, they were transformed into a heart shaped island.

Not surprisingly, this romantic spot enjoys a reputation as a unique place to pop the question.

Trekking to Pampa Linda

From Isla Corazon it takes about 30 minutes to get to the next destination, Pampa Linda. This camping area with a small restaurant is where lunch is served on the official tour.

This is the spot with the best views of the Mount Tronador and its three peaks — the western peak is in Chile, the eastern one in Argentina, and the middle one marks the border point between the two countries.

Mount Tronador has fourteen glaciers — products of the last glacial period that occurred more than 10,000 years ago. Mount Tronador is one of the most important glacier-accumulation areas of Patagonia, having seven principal glaciers, three on the Chilean side and four on the Argentinean side. Bring a good pair of binoculars, to see the Manso Glacier and the Castaño Overo Glaciers in detail.

Pampa Linda is the starting point for various treks from easy to difficult, ranging from one hour to two days.

The ‘Saltillo de las Nalcas’ trek to a waterfall is an easy family option that takes about 1.5 hours to complete. There are also guided tours to climb the glaciers offered for those in decent shape who have the proper equipment. It’s not recommended to for amateurs unfamiliar with the area to hike the glaciers without a guide. Those who do will want to fill out the online trekking registration and make sure to inform to the park rangers of their plans.

The Otto Meiling Mountain Hut

The adventurous who want to climb the glacier may opt to do a five to seven hour trek 1,200 meters up from Pampa Linda to the Otto Meiling Shelter.

The shelter is named for its founder, a German mountaineer who immigrated to Argentina (along with many other Germans) and built the hut in the 1950’s. Meiling continued to climb in the area well into his 80s.

During winter season the shelter has no service, but from December to April it provides meals, decent accommodation and guided excursions of varying difficulty.

It’s located between the Castaño Overa and the Alerce glaciers, 2000 meters above sea level. Otto Meiling hut has one of the most privileged panoramic views of Pampa Linda, Paso de las Nubes Valley, the López, Bonete, Righi, and Mount Cathedral.

Otto Meiling is one of the most popular mountain huts of Bariloche, but it’s not part of the Official Tronador Tour. Previous snow and ice climbing experience is required due to the danger posed by deep crevasses. Anon peak, on the Argentina side is the easiest of the three peaks to climb, but many predict that it will become inaccessible within a few years due to destabilization caused by the warming of the upper troposphere.

The Black Glacier

An unpaved road climbs up to the Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier), a reconstituted glacier full of sediment that gives it its namesake black pigmentation. A new lake that is less than 100 years old at the bottom of the glacier has the same green hue as the Manso River and other bodies of water in the region.

Mount Tronador is pure ice at its peak, surrounded by hundred-meter cliffs that generate the rumbling avalanches and landslides. The debris from the avalanches feed the lower lip of the glacier, giving it its dirty appearance.

At the conclusion of this trip visitors can trek to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat — not to be confused with Iguazú’s Devils Throat) waterfall, and be treated to a beautiful view of the natural melting cascade.

On May 29th of 2009 a shocking breakage happened in the dam that contains the Black Glacier, flooding Pampa Linda. Residents were evacuated by helicopter and luckily there were no fatalities. As one of the most accessible glaciers in South America, the event caused introspection into how global warming could wreak havoc on nearby populations such as Pampa Linda any day.

Argentina’s government is tracking the glacial drift — the country is one of the top 15 countries in terms of ice-surface levels. The country’s 16,968 glaciers combined are 41 times the size of Buenos Aires. According to a study by the Argentine Institute of Snow Science, Glaciology and Environmental Sciences (IANIGLA), from the 1970s until now, the the lower tongue of the Black Glacier has experienced a significant loss of ice.

Visitors who experience the constant thundering crashes of ice of the glacier will understand first-hand how import preservation of this pristine environment is for future generations. — Daniela Massolo

⇒ If you’d like to book an excursion to Mount Tronador and Black Glacier Day Trip, get in touch with us!

→ Wander Argentina can also arrange reasonably-priced custom trips to Patagonia, including Mount Tronador along with other attractions in Bariloche, alone or in combination with other Argentina destinations — get in touch via our contact form.

The total trip to Mount Tronador from Bariloche is about 77 kilometers. The black glacier is another 7 kilometers down the road. The route goes along national Route 40 for 37 kilometers and then along provincial Route 82 for 40 kilometers.

The route is one-way during peak hours

— Heading toward Mount Tronador the road is open from 10.30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Getting To La Cueva is Half the Adventure

This 17-seat ‘destination dining’ spot, surrounded by Lenga Beech forest, can only be reached by snowmobile in the winter or quad bike in the summer. Kids can go to, but they ride on the back.

The cozy alpine interior of La Cueva lends itself to kicking things off with a glass of champagne and cheese fondue by the fireplace.

Patagonian Cuisine

The smells of traditional Patagonic dishes prepared in an old style wood stove permeate the whole restaurant.

Some popular entrees are salmon canapés; chicken stuffed with smoked ham, apples and curried tomatoes; lamb sauteed in Malbecand forest berries; and beef tenderloin marinated in Dijon mustard and honey. On some nights there is live music and dancing.

A unique dining experience that combines adventure and gourmet cuisine, La Cueva is probably the only restaurant in Bariloche that recommends diners have travel insurance.

Catedral Alta Patagonia, as it’s officially named, is popular both for its extensive terrain spread across three mountains and its 19 kilometer (12 mi.) proximity to Bariloche, Patagonia’s second largest city.

The 1030 meter (3379 ft.) high resort boasts 120 kilometers (75 mi.) of terrain on 50 different slopes served by 38 lifts, one tram and four-person gondolas.

Cerro Catedral in Bariloche as seen from the peak. photo: Ryan Rambo

South America’s oldest ski resort debuted in 1938 and today features a full-service village at its base, making Bariloche the only bona fide ‘ski town’ in Argentina.

New & Improved Slopes

In 2009 the aging Catedral resort underwent a multi-million dollar renovation. The revamp doubled the lift capacity to 22,000 and added four kilometers of cross-country skiing trails, a new terrain park, a tubing trail and a toboggan run.

Catedral’s modernization also included the purchase of snowmobiles and quadbikes for back-country tours and to reach the exclusive mountain restaurant, La Cueva.

The upgrades brought Cerro Catedral newfound international attention. In the same year Ski Rebel magazine dubbed Bariloche a ‘winter sports giant.’

The Toronto Star went so far as to call Cerro Catedral the world’s number two ski destination after Aspen, Colorado.

Due to the wet conditions and proximity to Lake Nahuel Huapí, Cathedral is actually best compared, not to Aspen, but Lake Tahoe.

The snow at the lakeside ski mecca is usually more like ‘California cement’ than light ‘champagne powder.’

The heavy snow and a few older lifts are the resort’s biggest drawback for spoiled snow hounds accustomed to skiing in the Rockies or the high Alps.

Still, Cerro Catedral is a favored destination for pro skiers and snowboarders from the Northern hemisphere for its deep powder and extensive off-piste terrain.

Only 17% of Cerro Catedral are novice runs, 35% are intermediate and the remaining 48% is advanced and expert terrain.

Spectacular Views and Rave Ski Reviews

As happens often in Argentina, the rave reviews compelled Catedral to jack up their prices, making the lift tickets out of reach for many Argentines.

Day passes at Catedral cost about half the price of the most well-known resorts in the western U.S., Europe and Canada.

International travelers still might find Catedral a bargain and the increased tickets prices are still offset by the prices of Argentina’s succulent steaks and fine Malbec.

Bariloche qualifies as an excellent candidate for ski junkies from the northern climes looking to ski during their summer, but be prepared for higher prices during the high season.

If you were going to move to South American to be a ski bum, Bariloche would probably be your best bet, but unless you hold local residency papers, the season’s pass costs a a couple of thousand dollars. A monthly pass costs nearly a thousand dollars in the high season.

This region of the Andes has some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes but if good skiing conditions are your main pursuit you may be more satisfied with Portillo resort in Chile or Las Leñas in the Mendoza province.

It is a trade-off though — visitors will find Portillo more expensive and the views, dining and services at isolated Las Leñas can’t compare to the activities offered at Cerro Catedral and around Bariloche.

Skiing in South America: When to Travel

Bariloche’s snowfall has been disappointing early in the season the last couple of years and the resort doesn’t make as much snow as it could at the base of the mountain.

The best time to go to Bariloche to ski is later in the season, even August. Travelers should keep in mind that the school holidays during the July/early August high season mean that Bariloche and the slopes of Catedral are crowded with relatively inexperienced skiers at that time.

There also seems to be a laissez-faire attitude toward slope grooming and a dearth of ski patrol to keep macho skiers in check.

Intermediate and advanced skiers and snowboarders will have the most fun if they head to the top of the mountain early and stay up there all day. The backside’s La Laguna area is not to be missed.

Beginner skiers will be happy to find that lower cost tickets are available for just the bunny slopes. Skiers 70-years-old and up get the rock star treatment they deserve all season — tickets for seniors are free.

So all 70-year-young ski bums should put Cerro Catedral on their bucket lists.

If you are serious about skiing, bring your own equipment and ski wear to save time and money, otherwise basic equipment rental is available at a reasonable price.

Getting there from central Bariloche:

• By bus: a shuttle leaves for Cerro Cathedral every thirty minutes from the bus station and stops all along the main strip in downtown Bariloche and along Bustillo Avenue. You will need a special smart card to ride the bus. Ask your hotel to lend you one, and keep in mind you will probably need to put credit on it

-A reader recently contacted us to recommend car rental for skiers at Cerro Catedral. They informed us Bariloche shuttles are often full, so they had to wait an average of one hour and up to two hours for a bus. Thanks for the update Antonio!

Hostel Inn Bariloche may not be the absolute cheapest or most diverse hostel in Patagonia’s largest city but it wins on location, cleanliness and stunning views.

As a Hostel International hostel with various locations around Argentina, Hostel Inn is large enough so that they know what they’re doing, but small enough that their hostels still have some character.

The desk staff is bilingual and helpful, although perhaps not as friendly as at some family-run hostels. The cleaning ladies are very sweet though and surprisingly smiley while they clean up after messy travelers all day long.

What you can’t beat here are the astounding view from the comfortable 24-hour lounge area and outdoor terrace. Also nice is the central location a block from the main square and up on a hill overlooking Lake Nahuel Huapi.

A bed in a four-bed room are typical of the prices you’ll find in Bariloche. Private rooms are also available, although they can seem a bit overpriced if you get one of the ones without a window.

The hostel has features a shared kitchen with a parilla, 24 -hour lounge with wifi and can arrange activities such as horseback riding and snowshoeing.

Both a bed in a dorm or a private room come with a decent free breakfast and word on the street is they hook up guests with a nice free dinner too.

Make reservations early, especially if traveling as a group — Hostel Inn fills up quick.

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