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Jp should I buy the new straps or do you think your pipe clamps are the way to go?

Well, whaddya want to do with them?

I modified mine the way that I did for my own convenience.

In MY opinion, the less wires, the less mess, so I bought the 1200. One sensor wire to contend with. I still adhere to that philosophy.

That is why my AK will now work as an either/or unit.

My primary thing is refrigeration and superheat is the name of the game. I rarely check SC on a refer unit (they've got receivers and sightglasses so I don't need to) The extra wire was just in the way and, predictably, got broke last spring.

If you pick the AK, then you're limited to either the stock velcro sensors or the stretchy velcro ones that were just posted. The clamp model that I bought will not directly fit the AK. The plugs don't match.

To do what I did, you've got to aggressively modify the unit. Drilling, grinding, cutting, and soldering.

You've also got to modify the sensor set. I'd had them for a whole 20 minutes before I cut the dual plug off, stripped the wiring back and soldered new ends on.

IMO, you can't go wrong with any of the DC products. If anyone asks me, I normally suggest the 1200.

In MY opinion, the less wires, the less mess, so I bought the 1200. One sensor wire to contend with. I still adhere to that philosophy.

That is why my AK will now work as an either/or unit.

My primary thing is refrigeration and superheat is the name of the game. I rarely check SC on a refer unit (they've got receivers and sightglasses so I don't need to) The extra wire was just in the way and, predictably, got broke last spring.

If you pick the AK, then you're limited to either the stock velcro sensors or the stretchy velcro ones that were just posted. The clamp model that I bought will not directly fit the AK. The plugs don't match.

To do what I did, you've got to aggressively modify the unit. Drilling, grinding, cutting, and soldering.

You've also got to modify the sensor set. I'd had them for a whole 20 minutes before I cut the dual plug off, stripped the wiring back and soldered new ends on.

IMO, you can't go wrong with any of the DC products. If anyone asks me, I normally suggest the 1200.

Thanks for the great reply. Is it possible for you to do a more in depth explanation to how you did yours? or maybe a rough drawing of how you connected and soldered the wires to the pins?

Thanks for the great reply. Is it possible for you to do a more in depth explanation to how you did yours? or maybe a rough drawing of how you connected and soldered the wires to the pins?

Sure. Keep in mind that my AK unit is a BETA model and some details may differ between it and the current production unit.

Totally disassemble the DRSA. Open the case, disconnect the transducers and set the back aside, disconnect the sensor wiring and cut it off of the plug. Remove the CPU board and set that aside as well.

Remove the plug in the faceplate and, using a dremel with a cutter bit to open the hole up to accept a 400 series Buccaneer panel connector (with 2 male pins)

Now, things get UGLY.

Above that hole, there is a ridge of plastic. Using a cutter, remove it.

I "eyeball centered" and drilled a 3/8" hole in the faceplate, then used the Dremel to open it up to accept another panel connector.

Once both connectors fit, I installed them.

Taking the sensor wire connector, solder a pin to each end.

Numbering the wires from top to bottom, I installed wires #1 and #4 in the top panel connector. #2 and #3 in the bottom one.

I took a set of clamp sensors and disassembled the 4 pin plug (for the 1250) and cut the wires off as close as I could.

I installed a Buccaneer 2 pin male connector on each one.

It sounds complicated, but, honestly, the worst part was figuring out exactly which parts I needed from Digi-key dot com. The 400 Series of connectors is a pretty broad series and has a lot of variety.

If you buy an AK-900, there is really no reason for you to attempt this modification. The plugs that I installed are the same ones that DC uses on the 1200 model as that is the other DRSA that I own.

If you want to have the one or two sensor functionality, the mod that hvacrmedic started using the 1/8" headphone type jacks is a better mod, IMO. It is less invasive to the unit, and a LOT easier to do.

If I were doing that one, I'd cut the sensor leads off about 4-6" from the plug, solder on the female jacks, permanently marking them in some manner. Install the male ends on the sensor leads and you're done.

You're looking at almost $75 in materials just from Digi-key to do it my way.