than the rest, this wine is the perfect example. It has all the richness and opulence of great Pinot Noir, but at the same time, with its firm structure, its plum and damson flavors, it magnifies those qualities into something impressive and long-lasting.

Editors' Choice

96 Williams Selyem Allen Vineyard Chardonnay (RussianRiverValley); $48. This is one of the best Chardonnays I've had this year. It's a tremendously ripe wine, exploding with apricot nectar, peach custard, quince, butterscotch, buttered toast and spice flavors. There's even a spine of minerality. But what really makes it so special is the acidity.

Best Buy

90Bonair 2005 Dry Gewürztraminer (YakimaValley); $9. This is a very well-made, bone-dry Gewürztraminer that is textural and fresh. The flavors are a perfect blend of grapefruit and floral notes, without being overly perfumy. Good concentration and length.