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EF36IWFSS Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for EF36IWFSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

light on to order water filter

Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.

Removing the existing filter by rotating as directed and then dislodging from 'docking' station proved difficult. Turns out, the old filter is under a bit of vacuum pressure and getting the unit to separate or release was a challenge.

I removed the drop-down outer housing by gently prying the sides of the two pivot pins at the rear. This gave me move 'room' to grip and slightly rotate then pull the old filter forward and away from the tight suction connection. I was concerned that I would be too forceful for the plastic assemblies and would break something; deliberate motions and a steady thought process on the problem helped disengage the darned old filter!

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

water filter needed replacing

I unscrewed the old one and replaced it with the new one. The real benefit was I got the exact part I needed w/o a 30 minute drive and sales people that ignored me. I had gone to the local store the day before and come home with the wrong part because i could not get assistance and the part # I had did not match what was labled on the package. I used the same part # on the website and got exactly what was needed, less that 48 hrs after I ordered it. thanks for the prompt service. we will be a repeat customer

No ice in ice trey

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

KITCHEN AID SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR ICE-MAKER stopped working due to a broken motor assembly.

Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.

1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved. 2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker.3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out.4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply. 5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.)6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit). 7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.)8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector. 9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.

This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.

Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.

Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.

while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

Broken hinge on bottom drawer lid.

The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control.1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer.2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers.3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one.4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides.5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now.6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers.7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it.8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.

The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

First I removed the drawers above the pantry drawer. Then I took out the pantry drawer. I unsrewed 3 screws that attached the part to the refreg. I then removed the rails that were attached to the part I was repalcing and put them on the new part. I then install the new part. Put the firg back together. It was extremely easy and took about 5 minutes to do.

Broken Crisper Pan

Since the crisper didn't come with a front, the old front needed to be removed from the broken cripser and attached to the new one. The easiest way to take off the front is to remove it from the bottom of the crisper. Once the pressure is released it comes off easy. Snap the front on the new crisper by starting with the top and snapping the bottom.

ice maker did not make ice

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.