I found this quite useful for adding capacity for swimbaiting. Since I hate casting the leader knot I've been joining a casting length amount of mono (50yds) to either hollow braid or using hollow braid to join it onto another PE. I found it works even with shorter lengths of mono as the line. Connection passing through guides ain't so bad providing its not in the initial parts of the cast. Has anyone tried this out? I'm trying to work out a good combo for max casting distance

I was going to try the hollow core braid until i found out the cost. Seems very expensive and the nail knot is still used, so 100 percent line strength seems to be the only positive. You are still limited by the knot on the lure. The bluewater boys seem to really dig the combo, fishing for tuna and swordfish, it would be a great way to go. I cannot see trying to tie 130 lb flouro.

To handle the lighter diameter leaders you're going to need for most bass applications the hollow to top shot connection has to be altered a little bit. Once hollow gets below 60# it tends to be harder to open from what I've been researching and why I've settled on 60# JBHC for my Swimbait and salt use. The trick is to create an end loop in hollow core main line backing and then seek the top shot or leader you prefer with its own end loop which will go through the line guide on the reel with ease. The only problem is most wind-one's have long serves and perhaps best to seek the shorter connections being used by the guys throwing poppers.

There's a video by Balckwater showing 40# Fluoro served to 40# hollow core with a nail knot. It seems like the 16 weave hollow core is easier to open and if going below 60 than that's what is best to use.

As for cost, that's all relevant to one's expectation. Quality hollow core will last many more years than mono and the super neat atribute about HC is the ability to connect two sections together with a 100% splice. This is cost savings in that a bad birds nest can be quickly remedied by cutting the issue and splicing the two ends together. Over time this could be a major cost and time saver.

One other consideration is the feel of the 12 to 16 weave braids versus the coated stuff used in freshwater which is much safer on your hands and more enjoyable over a day of hard casting and constant thumb use to stop the spool. It won't be abrassion resistent as the coated so it has it's use but not for everything. Definately something to consider for chucking big baits where big Fluoro has its advantage and the sound of thunder from the l2L constantly going through the guides is unacceptable.

GARRIGA wrote:To handle the lighter diameter leaders you're going to need for most bass applications the hollow to top shot connection has to be altered a little bit. Once hollow gets below 60# it tends to be harder to open from what I've been researching and why I've settled on 60# JBHC for my Swimbait and salt use. The trick is to create an end loop in hollow core main line backing and then seek the top shot or leader you prefer with its own end loop which will go through the line guide on the reel with ease. The only problem is most wind-one's have long serves and perhaps best to seek the shorter connections being used by the guys throwing poppers.

There's a video by Balckwater showing 40# Fluoro served to 40# hollow core with a nail knot. It seems like the 16 weave hollow core is easier to open and if going below 60 than that's what is best to use.

As for cost, that's all relevant to one's expectation. Quality hollow core will last many more years than mono and the super neat atribute about HC is the ability to connect two sections together with a 100% splice. This is cost savings in that a bad birds nest can be quickly remedied by cutting the issue and splicing the two ends together. Over time this could be a major cost and time saver.

One other consideration is the feel of the 12 to 16 weave braids versus the coated stuff used in freshwater which is much safer on your hands and more enjoyable over a day of hard casting and constant thumb use to stop the spool. It won't be abrassion resistent as the coated so it has it's use but not for everything. Definately something to consider for chucking big baits where big Fluoro has its advantage and the sound of thunder from the l2L constantly going through the guides is unacceptable.

Great info, thanks for your input.
And it's true, lighter 12str hollows can be harder to open by the also grip a lot easier.
I follow my vendors advice and serve about 600mm then whip/nail polish the connection end 30mm.
I also lightly sand the fluoro going in to improve grip. There are pressure serve machines out there, one day I'd love to get my hands on one.

The pressure serve benches are nice but you can build one with clamps. Another member has done that and the one used in the Blackwater video was home made. Another option I saw on YouTube is using the reel as one of the pressure points and then just finding a way to attach the leader to keep the entire thing tight. This makes more sense to me and allows me to be portable. Just need to find the clamp for the leader that has clamps on both sides so I can attach it to an inmoveable object.

For now, I'll just buy the premade leaders and take the easy route but splicing the Fluoro directly into the HC would be nicer and in this case, less is more. Been thinking of doing this since I first contemplated throwing swimbaits and it's now just about doing it versus continuing to be lazy.

GARRIGA wrote:Care to share the link or poster of the videos. Can never get too much information.

I'll go look for some for you mate, I use the same techniques as a braid guru Paulus van de graal
In fact Paulusjustfishing.com

There's just an insane amount of info there. I use his site as a reference when it comes to PE lines.
Have to say I don't agree with him on all things, but it just probably means I got something wrong!