The information on this web site is made available for individual use
only and may not be copied for any commercial use, nor may it be copied
to any other web site. All of the new route information will be included in
the new Falcon Guide, Boulder Sport Climbs by Richard Rossiter, projected
date of availability, 2007.

Sleeping Beauty is the large crag to the west of Black Widow Slab and on the
same side of the canyon. Its imposing northeast face looms above the highway
as one drives west past the Boulderado and appears quite impressive from
Animal World. The crag is high, atmospheric, and wild. The rock is steep
and solid with a surprising array of long cracks and clean slabs that yeild
some 20 routes including fine sport climbs. The Main Wall is about 200
feet high and a 60-meter rope is required for rappels. Single-rope rappels
can be made down the Crack of Dawn, Mystic Mile, Mind Bender and Lost
Highway. Other routes have ring anchors, but require two ropes. Check route
descriptions for pitch lengths. The entire crag, including all crack climbs,
is published here for the first time.

East Approach. Park across from the Boulderado at 8.6 miles. Boulder-hop
across the steam (use the West Side approach if the water is too high). A
tyrolean traverse was set across the stream here, fall of 2001, however, it
was destroyed by an unknown moron. Scramble up talus that narrows to a
footpath and leads to a shoulder beneath the Beer Can. Go left and follow a
good path along the bottom of Sleeping Beauty. After about 300 feet, a path
cuts back right on Ledge One and brings one to the bottom of the Lower Wall
The main trail continues along the base of the cliff and leads to the south
end of Ledge Two.

West Approach. Park below Easter Rock (9.0 miles): Walk 100 feet
downstream and cross a large fallen tree to a tiny island, then cross a log
to the far bank. Follow a footpath (with cairns) up through open forest to the
top of the buttress. Note that the trail branches about 50 feet before reaching
the highest point. The left branch leads to anchors for routes on the north side
beginning with Mind Bender. The right branch leads to anchors for routes on
the south side of the wall beginning with Mystic Mile.