Prepare Mushrooms:Cook mushrooms and shallot in butter with salt and pepper in a large heave skillet over moderately high heat, stirring, until mushrooms are tender and liquid they give off is evaporated, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in crème fraiche and tarragon.

Assemble and bake:Fit 1 slice of ham into each of 12 light oiled muffin cups (ends will stick up and hang over edges of cups). Divide mushrooms among cups and crack 1 egg into each. Bake in middle of oven until whites are cooked but yolks are still runny. About 15-20 minutes. Season eggs with salt and pepper and remove (with ham) from muffin cups carefully, using 2 spoons or small spatulas. If you have tough fingers, just pick them up by the edges of the ham. Serve two per guest, one with a tarragon leaf or other green herb leaf for garnish, and the other with a sliver of tomato or red bell pepper.

Because we are serving guests, we usually cook the eggs a little longer, just so the yolks set. You may wish to ask. Some areas have concerns about salmonella.

We really like it served with little triangles of buttered toast leaned on the cups to dip in the yolk.

Substitutions:A great alternative to the mushroom filling is to substitute a ½ cup of cooked spinach for the shallot. Or more spinach and delete the mushroom as well.

Fresh thyme is a good substitute for the tarragon. A sprig of thyme or rosemary is a good substitute for the tarragon garnish.