Warnings:1. I am no expert.2. I have been known to mess this procedure up.3. I am using and photographing a 2004 rebel. Parts and torque values for other years can and do vary. Especially for 80’s Rebels. DO your homework.4. I may have left something important out.5. If you cannot detect sarcasm, DO NOT FOLLOW THIS GUIDE.

Things you need:

Whatever parts you are replacing such as friction disks, springs, or steels. I take no position on whether you should replace them all or not. Search the forum for a variety of opinions.Right side crankcase gasket1.6 liters of you favorite oil. I offer no opinion about what oil to use. Use extra virgin olive oil for all I care. Or search the forum for other ideas. (I am NOT buying you a new engine if you use olive oil. Don’t ask.)A rebel

Before you start:1. Put your new friction plates in oil and let them soak a while. Like overnight.

2. Check to see what errors others have pointed out in my directions.

Take it apart:1. Use the 17mm socket, extender bar and ratchet to drain the oil. And oil pan would also be a good idea, but hey, it is your garage floor, so your call.

2. Use the 12mm socket to remove the right foot peg mount. Or just remove one bolt and rotate the mount out of the way.

3. Use the 8mm socket the remove the 10 bolts holding on the right crankcase cover. Be sure you get all of them. They are tricky things. Two of them also hold on a mounty thing for the clutch cable. Disconnect the cable and move it out of the way, The blue one are where the clutch cable mount attaches.

4. Remove the crankcase cover. It can be a bit hard to dislodge. Be firm, but gentle. At some point you will need to scrape of the old gasket on it. Do it now, do it later, whatever, but I am not putting in another step for it.

5. Use the 10mm socket to remove these 4 bolts. Use a criss-cross pattern to loosen the bolts in stages.

6. Remove the plate, bolts and springs and put theme somewhere you can find them later. Your wife’s jewelry box is a good option.

7. Use the “Honda oil wrench” to remove the funky nut. This thing is REALLY torque. Make sure the bike is in gear, not neutral. Step on the brake, or have a helper do it. Then loosen the nut. Failure to do this will make the bike run away from you. There is a washer behind this nut to collect as well. Add these to your wife’s jewelry box.

8. Pull out the clutch center, friction disks and steels. Try to get them as a unit. Good luck.

9. Separate these parts. Inspect them and set aside any you plan to replace. The friction plates should replaced if they are 2.5mm or less.

10. Measure the springs as well. They should be replaced if they are 33.1mm or less in length.

11. Here is what you should see left on the bike.

Put it all back together. I assume you are smart enough to put the new parts in where needed without further prompting.

1. Set the clutch center on a table and install the judder spring. This is an infamous thing. Get it right. The small circle should touch the bottom of the clutch center and the big circle should touch the steel plate (once you install it.) This picture is on it’s side to better illustrate the correct orientation of the spring.

2. Install a steel plate.

3. Install a friction disk.

4. Alternate between the two until you run out.

5. One of your friction disks is supposed to be different. (although the non-oem kit I bought didn’t have a different one.) With oem sets, the special disks is visibly different. It is the one on the right here. Install that disk LAST.

6. Install the pressure plate by sticking the legs through the holes. Try not to think dirty thoughts as you do.

7. Bonus tip: Inserting a bolts like this can make it easier to keep all these parts together as you install them.

8. Slide the whole thing into clutch basket. This is tricky. You need to have the tabs on the friction disks lined up and then slide them into the slots. You will likely need to rotate it back and forth slightly to work it in.

9. Install the washer and screwed up nut. Notice the word “outside” on one side of the washer? Guess which way it points. Go on. Guess. DO IT!

10. Use the “Honda Oil Wrench” and your torque wrench to tighten the funky nut. Again, have the bike in gear and the rear brake fully engaged. I got my wife to stand on the brake and this made things much easier. You could do the same, but you will have to pay me shipping&handling and a $400 deposit if you want me to send her to you. Or you could find your own assistant. Tighten it to 54 foot pounds.

11. Bask in your manliness. (Or femininity, if that applies. You go girl/boy/man/woman/Bigfoot/whatever/)

12. Install the springs.

13. Install the plate and the bolts. Tighten them in a criss-cross pattern and in stages.

14. Inspect the lifter rod assembly in the crankcase cover. If everything is still intact, leave it be. Here is how it should look. You can click to see a video of it moving.

15. If it ain’t right, make it right. There is a hole in the end of the rod that exits the case and attaches to the clutch cable.

16. The pokey bit of the spring needs to fit in this hole. Put the spring in place and slide the rod into place. You missed the hole. Try again. Oops, you missed again. Ooops. Getting closer. Try not to think about sex. You got it! Wait, you missed. Keep trying . . .

17. Once you got it, put the Lifter rod in place and check that is all works right.

18. Put the crankcase cover on. Use the 9mm socket and install all 10 bolts. Remember to install the mount for the clutch cable at the same time.

19. Use your torque wrench, the 17mm socket and the extension bar to re-install the oil drain plug. Torque it to 22-26 foot pounds.

20. Replace the foot peg.

21. Insert 1.6 quarts of oil. Be a man, don’t use a funnel! You don’t sit down to pee do you? Your handy is steady enough ain’t it?

Just letting you know that I just did this 2 days ago, and what a frickin' simple procedure this is! Thank you for this.

The only major thing I could add, unless I am just blind (happens quite a lot), is the torque spec for the spring bolts. I believe they should be 9 ft/lbs ??? and I never saw that anywhere on the instructions. I put these suckers way pasted 9, and I am just going to leave them.

I also had the little spring piece pop out (at least when I did it) when the case cover comes off for the starter gear (I think it is the starter gear). The image for step 5 has it clearly to the right of the basket... I thought the piece was somehow for the clutch release. Took me a few to realize where it went

The whole procedure was really simple and I took everything off, bought aftermarket plates, soaked them, put them back in the same order...and now it makes noise.

It is a sort of clacking gkh gkh gkh noise (i know that sounds goofy, but it is the actual noise if you sound it out.)

Anyway, I cannot for the life of me figure it out. I have taken it apart and looked for anything that might be knocking and see nothing. The Judder is in right, the springs are still good, the steels are good. It is an 09, and the clutch ran dry and burnt up. It wasn't making this noise before, It was just slipping. Now, it runs beautifully but makes a noise.

I don't know what it could be and I don't want to do any damage to the bike. If anyone has any Ideas, let me know.

The whole procedure was really simple and I took everything off, bought aftermarket plates, soaked them, put them back in the same order...and now it makes noise.

It is a sort of clacking gkh gkh gkh noise (i know that sounds goofy, but it is the actual noise if you sound it out.)

Anyway, I cannot for the life of me figure it out. I have taken it apart and looked for anything that might be knocking and see nothing. The Judder is in right, the springs are still good, the steels are good. It is an 09, and the clutch ran dry and burnt up. It wasn't making this noise before, It was just slipping. Now, it runs beautifully but makes a noise.

I don't know what it could be and I don't want to do any damage to the bike. If anyone has any Ideas, let me know.

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