Ah, I see what you mean Tim - the rear derailleur really is at maximum capacity with that cassette and chain ring combination.

Actually my normal method of sizing to chain is to do exactly that - put the chain on small/small and then shorten the chain so it doesn't rub on the derailleur (it's the Campy method). But in this case the chain would end up too short for the big/big.

Rog, the left shifter has half positions to trim the front derailleur. A half click moves the derailleur over enough to stop it rubbing but not enough to cause a chain ring shift.

Yep. I think we have exceeded the capacity of both the front and rear derailleurs. Shimano was right, I was wrong. No big deal, just no cross-chaining.Sorry Rog for misleading you a few days ago and claiming I had a full range of smoothly changing gears. I thought I did at the time. It wasn't until tonight as a result of this conversation that I noticed the chain rubbing. It doesn't make any noise and does change smoothly, I just didn't see how close the pulley cage is to the chain.

TimI also have cross chain issues. I also believe I can live with them.Following ronk's and our conversation I rechecked everything and noted the top pulley of the rear derailleur was close to the large cog in low.I subsequently adjusted the "B" screw in about half way, this gave me a 3 to 4mm clearance and tweaked the cable end about half a turn.I took it into my LBS (He does a lot of; Shall we say "Tidying up") after I make such adjustments He was very pleased with the outcome and also warned of the cross chaining issues and suggested I would have few problems if I didn't ride crossed chained.On another issue I've been playing around with the seat position in an attempt to reduce the pressure on the old knees.I've lifted the front one notch and brought it forward another 5mm.I suspect the body needs to adjust to a totally new position and harden up on the weights its pulling.Thanks again Cheers Rog

EVERY HILL HAS A CREST. GETTING THERE BEFORE THE HEART ATTACK IS THE TRICK.

I made much the same adjustment to the saddle not long after I bought the bike, six months or so back. I have it slightly tilted back now.No issues with my knees but when the saddle was positioned at what looked like level I felt as though my pelvis was rolling forward and was quite uncomfortable. Must be something to do with the shape of these gel saddles.All good now, though it puts a tiny bit of pressure on the perineum area (the bit between the functional bits ). Nothing has turned numb yet and I certainly hope it doesn't in time to come.I find myself sitting further back on this saddle than my other bikes but have become accustomed to it. The longest continuous ride has been about three hours with no more discomfort than any other bike seat. I'm still considering another alteration to the driveline. Maybe a 46T chainring. It niggles at me that it is not quite right. Just a tad OCD when it comes to bikes.

TimMy bike came fitted with a 46/36/26 chain ring. I wonder if that is why our measurements are slightly different. I'm still yet to get my head around Shimano's 22 teeth difference, limit on the rear derailleur. ronk or yourself will put it in words of one syllable Cheers Rog

EVERY HILL HAS A CREST. GETTING THERE BEFORE THE HEART ATTACK IS THE TRICK.

Interesting, I have a 48T big chainring. That does explain..., something. Not sure what. But it disproves my thoughts that if a fit a smaller 46T big ring everything will be right,as in no chain rub on the derailleur pulley. Scrub that idea off the list. Do you have a small sized bike frame? 165mm crank length? I thought maybe smaller ring on smaller frames? I know the cranks are only 165mm long on S and XS frames.As for the 22T difference affecting the R. derailleur. This is only my theory but one of the functions of the R.derailleur is to take up the slack in the chain when it changes from the high circumference big ring (48T) to the lower circumference small ring (24T) . If the difference is too high (48-24=24) the R.derailleur cant wind up enough to take up the higher than recommended slack and the chain hangs loose or fouls the top pulley as in my photo. That is why I thought the smaller big ring would fix my problem, but as I've just learnt, it won't.The only remedy is a higher capacity R. derailleur.Thanks Rog, you've solved the my problem once and for all.

Tim wrote:Interesting, I have a 48T big chainring. That does explain..., something. Not sure what. But it disproves my thoughts that if a fit a smaller 46T big ring everything will be right,as in no chain rub on the derailleur pulley. Scrub that idea off the list. Do you have a small sized bike frame? 165mm crank length? I thought maybe smaller ring on smaller frames? I know the cranks are only 165mm long on S and XS frames.

And back againBased on what Tim said re rear derailleur capacity, that is why I'm not in any strife. Shimano's 661 is (as I remember) rated at 22 teeth.46/36/24 Gives a variation of 22 and with in the rated capacity. Now did I get that right Thanks againCheers Rog

EVERY HILL HAS A CREST. GETTING THERE BEFORE THE HEART ATTACK IS THE TRICK.

The 2013 models have been released. Not a lot of big changes. However I do like the new front brakes and that it can now handle wider tyres. I would have thought that with the strong Australian dollar its price may have decreased but unfortunately it has gone upThe web site has the changes listed but has not updated it with the full specifications yet.

TCAT wrote:The 2013 models have been released. Not a lot of big changes. However I do like the new front brakes and that it can now handle wider tyres. I would have thought that with the strong Australian dollar its price may have decreased but unfortunately it has gone upThe web site has the changes listed but has not updated it with the full specifications yet.

Yes that is a pity that prices have gone up, especially as you mentioned with our strong Aussie dollar. I don't think it's price gouging though, probably some other background costs involved with the modifications.

All the changes are good improvements, evolutionary rather than revolutionary. Many of the changes have come from customer feedback too (e.g. the seatpost length was an issue for me).

HeadsetTange fully sealed. The bearings contain the races in the same unit so a worn bearing can be replaced without pressing out the cups or crown race.Front disc caliperAvid BB7. Improved adjustability. A long 3mm allen key is no longer needed.Centre standMassload two-legged stand on 2013 bikes. A great product but 550gms so remove if too heavy.ChainwheelsThe inner chainwheel is now 24T (was 26T). A 8% reduction in the bottom gear.Bottom Bracket set2013 bikes were fitted with a generic BB as the Shimano BB-UN55 did not arrive in time. These UN55 will be flown out and sent to dealers plus put inside the bike cartons still in stock.ChainWas Shimano HG-53 and now upgraded to HG-73 which lasts longer.Seatpost length XS, S & MIncreased from 250 to 300mm to be same as on larger sizes.Handlebar stemReduced from 10 to 7 degree rise. Available in 60, 80, 100, 120, 130mm in 25.4 & 26.0 bore.Handlebar on trekking modelHumpert horn bar. See handlebar technical discussion. Avoids effective frame toptube reduction.

Has a sweep back. Places the brake and shift levers next to the most used grip position.Rear brake on STI modelShimano discontinued the R550 cantilevers but introduced a mini V-brake (R353) to be compatible with the drop bar levers.Shift levers on STIShimano rebadged the 9sp Tiagra levers and called them New Sora. (Tiagra is now 10 speed).

Frame / Fork changes Fork steerer uncutIt is now possible to set the bars higher than before. The bike shop will work the position out in discussion with you.Rear tyre clearanceAn extra 5mm of space has been added to better allow use of tyres in the 40-42 wide zone.Rear cantilever hangerRemoved to save weight. Cantilever brakes no longer used.Pump pegRemoved from under the top tube as Zefal stopped making the pump that fitted.Spare spoke attachmentSix spare spokes (2 left rear, 2 right rear, 2 front) attached at the factory to the LH seatstay.Head angle on L, XL and XXLChanged from 71 to 72 degrees to slightly increase the steering trail and impreove stability.

I've been keen on one of these for a while as a replacement for my current commuter. I finally saw a 2012 VWR the other morning on the path alongside the Maylands Golf Club. Nice looking unit although I was a little dissapointed with the brightness of the dyyno-light (although to be fair I was viewing it in my mirror and it was about 7ish and quite light so it wasn't the best assesment). Can't decide if I should get the discount 2012 model or the 2013 model - guess I'd better choose soon eh?

Hi BandedRail - I commute on the 2012 VWR from Woodbridge to the CBD. It is a fantastic commuter bike!

I can't keep up with the lads on their race bikes on it, but if the weather turns bad I'd much rather be on the VWR. I "towed" a friend home during a storm - she was on a CF road bike and was being blown all over the place until she tucked in behind the solid VWR. I found it quite amusing as she is MUCH fitter than I am. Plus riding it is good training for the odd time I take my road bike out for a spin - I can ride that much faster after 4 months of commuting on the VWR.

If you are thinking of also doing some touring on it then I would consider getting the 2013 - Noel has adjusted the gearing on the 2013 model so you'll be better able to tackle hills loaded up with panniers. If you are just going to use it for commuting from Bayswater then the 2012 will be more than adequate. For my commute I have it permanently in the top chain ring.

Re the light - yes it's not that bright and I think I will be supplementing it with an additional front light over the coming winter.

BandedRail wrote:I was a little dissapointed with the brightness of the dyyno-light (although to be fair I was viewing it in my mirror and it was about 7ish and quite light so it wasn't the best assesment).

Rode with a friend using the VWR. The headlight is the 40 lux iQ Fly. I'm used to the Supernova E3 Pro and the 60 lux iQ Cyo, but noted that his Fly was certainly a very good bright unit, more than good enough for traffic use.

Going for a Sturmey Archer dynohub head light circa 1970's with from memory a 2 watt bulb to a led headlight was such a revelation.I ride in wonder of it every time I fire up the Edelux and think how did we ride at night before we got this technology. Life is good Even 40 lux is totally amazing by comparison and such a step up from what we used to have to put up with.

IP and rifraf - you are quite right in your comments on the light on the VWR - I should have pointed out that my bike tends to end up looking a little like a Christmas tree..... I have a "thing" about lights on bikes..... anyway hopefully BandedRail doesn't let the front light dictate the bike purchase

rifraf wrote:Going for a Sturmey Archer dynohub head light circa 1970's with from memory a 2 watt bulb to a led headlight was such a revelation.I ride in wonder of it every time I fire up the Edelux and think how did we ride at night before we got this technology. Life is good Even 40 lux is totally amazing by comparison and such a step up from what we used to have to put up with.

Bwahahahahaahaha - magic Yeah almost like that and the light output would have been similar on a good day.A little more like:

The Moulton is a little lighter now that the 1.1kg saddle and 1.1kg Sturmey Archer Dynohub have both been swapped.Not sure what the chrome switched steel headlight weighed but for sure the Edelux is lighter as well as lightier

Sprocket wrote:IP and rifraf - you are quite right in your comments on the light on the VWR - I should have pointed out that my bike tends to end up looking a little like a Christmas tree..... I have a "thing" about lights on bikes..... anyway hopefully BandedRail doesn't let the front light dictate the bike purchase

Nah, light brightness wouldn't dicate purchase for me as I have a silly number of lights both front & rear (love my MagicShine - trouble free & bright lighting for almost 3 years now). I guess budget is the thing that is affecting my purchase decision at the moment. My poor old 2006 Giant Boulder is getting on but I've learnt enough to keep it on the road so it's hard to justify to my lovely wife that I need another bike - I suspect I'm not alone in this Love to do some touring with camping out but I'd be doing it alone (my wife cycles - but not THAT much).

Hi folks,I'm afraid I turned mine into a bit of a work horse. Also experimenting with a few things. Probably a good laugh to many, as this is definitely not a racer but it is very heavy duty and suits me well.I'm a heavy duty kind of guy and its a great shopping jeep. You know when I go to the market I get many people looking at it and asking questions.Many Asian people just love to take a look and comment on their bikes they had in the old country. I get tooted on the way home by cars at times and then I see them waving. It's the folk from the market that I have spoken too.

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