A bitter green that is rocketing to fame

Q. When traveling in Italy and Australia I have been served a wonderful salad green called rocket. My produce manager has never heard of it. Does it have another name in the U.S.?

--Susan Harrington, Downers Grove

A. Rocket, a bitter but delicious peppery green, goes by many names: roquette, rugula and rucola as well as the better known arugula.

It's used mostly in salads, but it is sometimes cooked in pasta dishes. Farmers markets are a great source for this green, particularly in the spring and fall--it grows best in cooler weather. And as its popularity has blossomed, many major grocery stores now stock arugula year-round, bagged and in bunches in the produce section.

However, there are different types of arugula. In Europe, you may well have enjoyed wild, or rustic, arugula, which has spikier leaves and a sharper, more complex flavor. Unfortunately, about the only way to find this version is to grow it yourself. But the good news: It's very easy to start from seed in a container or garden bed; it only takes 30-45 days to mature. GardenGuides sells packets of wild arugula seed for $2.39 by mail; visit gardenguides.com or call 800-274-0824 (1-7 p.m. weekdays).

Q. Please give me some basic information about eggplants. Are the seeds edible?

--Helen Harmon, Schereville, Ind.

A. Although Americans are more familiar with large purple eggplants, this vegetable member of the nightshade family is enjoyed worldwide in many different sizes, shapes and colors. "The lighter the hue, the milder the eggplant," Deborah Madison wrote in "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," describing white eggplant as the mildest and red-orange eggplant as the most bitter.

Regardless of color or variety, look for smooth, firm vegetables with a green stem. Seeds, which develop as the eggplant matures, are edible, but they tend to add bitterness. This is a bonus when eating the vegetable during the summer, when peak-season eggplants are at their best with insignificant seed development.

Q. Some time ago I cut a recipe out of the Tribune for a bean salad. It became very popular at my church and for potlucks. Evidently somewhere along the way I lost it. Can you locate a copy of this recipe for me?

--Brenda Weigelt, Chicago

A. This recipe is adapted from one that appeared in the Tribune in August 1991, and described as a terrific make-ahead dish for a back-yard barbecue.

Q. What is cream of tartar? I have been using 1/4 teaspoon in a frittata thinking it would make it fluffy. Would something else work better?

--Richard Ruffolo via e-mail A. Cream of tartar is a fine acidic powder found in the spice aisle at the supermarket. It helps uphold the height and fluffiness of egg whites that have been beaten into a stiff foam.

Like cream of tartar, a small amount of acid, such as lemon juice, would act as a stabilizer to help your frittata reach its full fluffiness potential. The natural acid on a copper bowl's surface also produces the same result without adding cream of tartar or lemon juice.

Q What does a circled letter K next to the word "pareve" mean on food labels?

--Deborah Galloway, Chicago

A. This is just one of many kosher symbols used to identify products prepared under strict Jewish orthodox supervision. The term "pareve" designates that the product does not contain meat, milk or their byproducts.

"In each locality, a rabbi or kashruth organization must inspect the food manufacturer's facility should they wish its product to be labeled kosher," Anita Hirsch writes in "Our Food," a cookbook featuring kosher recipes. "Each rabbi or organization has a symbol that the manufacturer or processor can use to show that the ingredient and the production of the food is kosher."

The OK symbol represents The Organized Kashrus Laboratories. You can find more information about this certifying agency and kosher foods at okkosher.com.

1. Place beans in a large colander; rinse well under cold running water. Drain thoroughly; transfer to a large bowl.

2. Pulse garlic and hot pepper in a food processor; add cilantro, oil, vinegar, mustard, sugar, cumin and salt. Process until well combined. Pour dressing over the beans; toss. Serve at room temperature or chilled; stir well and adjust the seasoning if necessary.