I got some 5000 packs and I'm impressed with the size of the packs they're way smaller than Gens Ace , the weight is close (abit less) to the specs on the Hobbypartz website but they're narrower than the specs.

I've even thought that maybe I got some misslabeled packs??What do you guys think?,Is this normal with Sky to be smaller than other packs.

Check this pic. this is a 4s 5000 next to a 6s Gens Ace 3800 and a 2s Gens Ace 2500.

Images

How can you compare these sizes? They are different cell count and capacity lipos.

BTW, Sky lipos are made by the same company that makes Gens Ace. So if you want performance comparable to Gens Ace then get the Sky 40C.

Quote:

Originally Posted by epc2

I got some 5000 packs and I'm impressed with the size of the packs they're way smaller than Gens Ace , the weight is close (abit less) to the specs on the Hobbypartz website but they're narrower than the specs.

I've even thought that maybe I got some misslabeled packs??What do you guys think?,Is this normal with Sky to be smaller than other packs.

Check this pic. this is a 4s 5000 next to a 6s Gens Ace 3800 and a 2s Gens Ace 2500.

Looks like you didn't read my post , I said that compared to the 3800 they look small ,of course I'm not expecting them to be the same because they're different brand and capacity but what I said is that for being a 5000 cell they look small compared to a 3800.

By the way the Sky's are 40C.

epc2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexf1852

How can you compare these sizes? They are different cell count and capacity lipos.

BTW, Sky lipos are made by the same company that makes Gens Ace. So if you want performance comparable to Gens Ace then get the Sky 40C.

I wish the lipo battery industry would standardize the connectors that come on their products!

I just got some Sky Lipo 3S-40c-1300mah and they have a non-standard banana connector.

Couple days ago I got some Turnigy 3S-20C-1300mah with the XT-60 connector on them!

Means that I have to, yet again, make a work-around for their problem!

I don't even think an adapter is available!

And soldering skills are often frustrating on 14 AWG wires!

Not to mention the safety factor!

I agree completely, I almost wish they just came with no connectors at all like Hyperions do. In any case, I've mastered soldering deans and honestly it's not a big deal at all once you get a process down for it. Get some helping hands, you can get them at harbor freight for cheap if you don't have them. Also make sure you have an iron that will do at least 30W, 40W is even better. Cut the negative wire off the existing lead of the new battery and LEAVE the positive attached. Slip the heat shrink tubing over the cut wire, and carefully strip 1/8" or just a hair more off the end of the negative wire. Then clamp that gently into your helping hands, I usually put them all the way up so it doesn't crimp too much. Once you've done that, and your iron is nice and hot, tin the wire good all the way around so it is full of solder but not too much that it globs. Then take your female deans and fit the skinnier side into the other arm on the helping hands. Put your iron on the negative lead on the deans and hold it there, while doing so run the solder where the wire gets soldered to tin it good. Once you have done that, carefully pull the negative wire through the other arm where it was clamped and position it so that it sits flat on the negative terminal of the deans direction on the tinned solder. You may need to bend the wire a little but if you get it all straight it should just sit. Then just hold the iron on the underside of the deans spade again until the solder all melts, you'll see the wire fall onto the spade as the tinned wire heats and the solder bonds to the lead. Most of the time I don't even need to add solder, as long as you tinned it right it just welds right down. Sometimes I'll add some if needed. Once it cools a bit, slide the heatshrink tubing over and I use the fatter side of my iron just below the tip to shrink the tubing down. Once that is done, the negative wire should be completely covered and safe, so you can then do the positive wire in the exact same way and have no risk of short etc. I've done dozens of batteries this way, it takes about 5 minutes per lead once you get it down and it comes out like you're a pro. I know this is an old post, but maybe this will help people who have a hard time soldering deans...

I agree completely, I almost wish they just came with no connectors at all like Hyperions do. In any case, I've mastered soldering deans and honestly it's not a big deal at all once you get a process down for it.

What's wrong with the connectors they come with? I think they're great. I thought I checked, and they are higher current than the deans...at least that is what I remember.

Looks like you didn't read my post , I said that compared to the 3800 they look small ,of course I'm not expecting them to be the same because they're different brand and capacity but what I said is that for being a 5000 cell they look small compared to a 3800.

By the way the Sky's are 40C.

epc2.

I read it. You asked what we thought. He told you.

Anyway, I have both types of batteries (Gens Ace 25C, sky lipo--30C and 40C). I like the 40C better out of the sky lipos, but the Gens Ace seem to be under rated as far as C goes, and are well balanced. The 30C sky lipos are okay. They are over-rated as far as C goes, I think. I'll know for sure after I pick up my power meter tomorrow, but the 30C 1300 mah come down hot, and two got soft, on a tech one yak 54.

I do like my 40C sky lipos, too, but to be honest, they'd be my second choice after the Gens Ace...at least based on my experience so far. This isn't a scientific pronoucement...I haven't taken actual measurments on these batteries.

Tom, I have been soldering for 40 years and doing Deans for at least the last 15.
Yet I do believe that it is likely that noobs could struggle to solder 14 guage wires, for instance, to ANY connector, much less Deans & their clones.
You did do a great tutorial on it and I thank you.
I agree that if the manufacturers left off the power connectors entirely that it would be a workable solution because I'm sure almost all have given up hope for industry standardization.

What's wrong with the connectors they come with? I think they're great. I thought I checked, and they are higher current than the deans...at least that is what I remember.

The problem is that every battery I buy seems to come with a different connector. Some come with deans, some come with bullet, then there is the eflite/parkzone connector, and the xt-60 that hobbyking batteries come with. I've gotten other connectors on other batteries as well. I standardized on deans as that is the most common around here at least. I don't think anything I'm flying is anywhere near the max for deans...

Tom, I have been soldering for 40 years and doing Deans for at least the last 15.
Yet I do believe that it is likely that noobs could struggle to solder 14 guage wires, for instance, to ANY connector, much less Deans & their clones.
You did do a great tutorial on it and I thank you.
I agree that if the manufacturers left off the power connectors entirely that it would be a workable solution because I'm sure almost all have given up hope for industry standardization.

That's cool, couldn't tell that by your post and I figured I'd take the time to write up the tutorial for anyone who might read it, not so much you (the post was like a year old I think). I've been soldering for a long, long time as well but I know some people don't have much experience with it so I figured I'd document what I think is a pretty simple way of doing it and also super safe. I should probably write up my method for soldering bullet connectors on at some point, though it's pretty similar to the deans process. I agree about newbie soldering folks and the local hobby stores around here make a killing soldering deans on batteries (they charge people $5 to do it, per battery!). There's just no hope for standardization at this point, and honestly I'd prefer no connectors to the myriad of different ones I encounter every time I order a battery from a new mfg.

Deans are rated for 50 amps according to one site I just checked. The 4mm hxt to about 93 amps according to another. The HXTs are easy to put on and take off, and at $0.36 for a connector, not a bad deal. They have a firm grip, but are still easy enough to take apart (unlike those blasted e-flite connectors). Deans are easy too. I guess the HXTs are a lot easier to solder, too, but I haven't soldered a deans, so I don't know this to be true.

But if you're pulling less than 50-75 amps, I guess you're not hurting anything.

I've seen a lot of posts asking where to get the connectors that come w/ Sky Lipos. They're hxt 4.0mm and can be found at HobbyKing. Even though they're based in Hong Kong its a very big store that sells just as many planes and parts (probably more) as the LHS.

Its says they're rated to 93 amps. I would trust these over deans because of the amp rating and they're easy to solder, but then again I've never used deans. HobbyKing is a great website (just allow some time for shipping), and I've spent over $300 on parts/edf units/motor and cannot complain about anything.

I know that this is an old thread, but I gotta chime in... Those HXT connectors are pure crap. I melted 2 of them -- in a lowly duratrax evader with a 2s battery.

93 amps my rear.

Use deans - *real ones*, or (much) better yet, use EC5 connectors especially for high current applications. I run them on my GTP2 and it regularly exceeds 200A sustained on speed runs. They don't even get warm.