zaktim's travel reports

Cerbere: a la frontiere d'espagne.

9 votes

Cerbere is one of those quintessential mediterranean villages; a small strip of tall hotels and appartment blocks tucked somewhat incongruously into a sandy cove between largish terraced hills along a rugged coastline. It is also a major railway transit centre for Spaniards moving north - the end of the line for the Spanish rail services, whereafter passengers must switch to French trains. But the greatest appeal is the simplicity and raw appeal of a Mediterranean enjoyed overwhelmingly by locals and a small volley of knowing cityfolk who descend here for the summer holidays. The same is true of Port Bou, just across the Spanish border (7 km by road), and remarkably a mirror image of Cerbere geographically.

Favourite spots:

There are several places (that require walking up the hills) along the coast which afford fantastic views of a more rugged Mediterranean coast that most people are familiar with. The rock is dark, the grassed hills washed out in brilliant sunshine nearly year-round, and the sea ever changing from aqua to black..and the whole area has very raw and harsh appeal.

What's really great:

That we arrived in January, and upon asking a queue of people in the small supermarket where we might find accommodation, were cheerfully (but a touch bemusedly) told that there was none. Every hotel had closed for the winter and wouldn't open again for 4 months or so.

Sights:

The singularly uninhabited collection of brightly painted and otherwise serious-looking border control buildings on the road into Spain.

Accommodations:

If you're desperate, there are some rooms available at the railway station - overpriced I felt, but sufficient. Better still, take a swag. That's sure to properly get you acquainted with some interesting people.