here's the situation:
i had my bow tuned in, proper arrows, good broadheads and was driving tacks at 50 yards. now i cannot get an eight inch grouping at 20 yards. i have no idea what happened, and i took my bow to the local bow tech who knows his stuff as good as anybody else, and he couldn't figure out what was wrong either. i shoot a mathews switchback xt at 70# with easton axis arrows (340) and 100-grain G5 striker broadheads.

my problems started when my rest wouldn't lay over consitently, so i changed it out for a Rip-cord rest. paper tuned it and it was dead nuts. then i started noticing that on occasion my arrows would go anywhere they wanted, and not where i wanted them to. when i fire an arrow it leaves the bow straight and then it turns at about 12-15 yards. i have no idea what could cause this.

the other thing is that with field points the arrows fly true and i hit X's every time. as soon as i put a broadhead on the arrows fly any direction and i can see them altering the course. i've tried 7 different types of broadheads, three different arrows, different spine strengths, different draw weights, adjusted my rest and nock point down and up and nothing makes any difference. like i said, field points fly great, but anything else and the arrow literally turns at about 12 yards. the riser doesn't appear to be bent, and if it is it's tweaked so slightly that it isn't noticeable. i'm at a loss.

my tech suggested that i use some Rage mechanical broadheads just to get me through the season and so i'm off to see if i can get them working like i need but i was just wondering if anyone has ever had this type of problem or can think of something else to try to fix it. i appreciate any help.

squirrelduster

09-16-2011, 10:03 PM

What kind of fletching?
Did you try putting your old rest back on?

wolftalonID

09-16-2011, 10:12 PM

Are you wearing a watch? It can get hit by the strings on some bows.
Are you punching the release? Sometimes we forget to gently touch it then squeeze till it goes.
Are you yanking your bow down to watch the shot? Or holding it up and letting the arrow hit the target before you let it down?
Are you closing your bow grip where before you had an open grip or light finger tip hold? Is your pointer finger being held out? sometimes some people, myself included here, tend to place the pointer finger in the path of the arrows. I hold my bow with light fingertip pressure on the grip to help avoid this.

Draw your bow full draw, hold it as best you can, pull your face away and hold it as far away from you as you can to observe it. Check all your cam anchors ie axils, and make sure your limbs are not twisting due to fatigue.

Check to make sure your knocks are not too tight, your release loop is not opened up(needs to be just right to hold the arrow from sliding up or down on the string.

Some food for thought.

Graylight

09-16-2011, 10:22 PM

First check to see that your bow is in spec. Check brace, axle to axle and tiller. Once those are confirmed and you have your limbs cycling the draw weight that you know you shoot, then check for cam lean... At full draw. look up the string and see if the cam is leaning left or right... Be careful not to torque your grip because it can make it appear to lean... After you have made those checks, you can check nock point and center shot... There are other factors but there's a good checklist to start with. Good luck... Let me know if those things are done, is so we can go from that point.

walleyed

09-18-2011, 08:03 AM

I dont know if this pertains but I bought 2 dozen arrows CE aramids and started shooting broad heads with them out of two dozen I have eight that I will shoot at an animal with, others fly erratic my son had the same problem with easton full metals so I dont think it is a brand problem. All I can say is I hate shooting broadheads they are a Beeach to tune and any shooting tecnique let down is magnified two fold, they have humbled us all. Also Im sure you checked things Graylight and others brought up but also check rest timing I have had trouble with that in the past and Im not a mathews guy but is your bow a single cam or double check cam timing. If nothing works and you want to break it in two try swithching broadheads some just will not fly with a set up for some reason. Oh do you shoot fingers or release. Main thing is dont give up, its some thing and probably simple, it always is. Good luck

7200

09-20-2011, 06:09 PM

thanks for the replys guys. i put some rage mechanical broadheads on my arrows and i'm back to 1 inch groupings at 60 yards. it'll get me through the season. i've been watching my technique religiously and i don't think that's the problem, i.e. i'm usually fully aware that i made a bad shot before the arrow hits my target. the cams/axle to axle/brace all seem to be fine. i don't think that my nocks are too tight because the arrows were shooting fine before.

nvbrushhunter

09-21-2011, 07:37 PM

I had a similar issue with my Invasion a few months back. Turns out the bow and rest timing were both off and the center shot was off. I will say, try another tech as well, a tech at one shop said everything was fine and a second tech was able to find the above things wrong. It wasn't that the first didn't know what they were doing, just having an off day.