Climbing day, July 28. Staying in Haugesund, just sounth of Bergen. 50 degree temps, clouds, but no rain. My Norwegian partner Kjetil and I headed for Kårstø, the local crag. Drove 30 minutes towards Stavanger, then pulled off the road. The approach was a 15 minute hike across private land. Kjetil informed me Norwegians believe all citizens should be able to enjoy all lands, thus the law mandates that people have access on private land. One may even camp there for 2 days without asking permission. At the division between private and public property there was a barbed wire fence. The land owner had built a small ladder straddling it for easy crossing. No need for the Access Fund here as there seems to be no access issues. The crag was a well bolted chunk of quality vertical granite approxiamently 60 feet high with positive edges and small cracks. 75 established routes in three sections of rock. Two other climbers showed up, but I don’t think there is ever a crowd. I’m sure I bagged the first American ascent of every climb I did. Surrounding the crag was a rainforest atmosphere of lush ferns, healthy pine? trees, and tall grass with views of a watery fjord. I kept waiting for a hobbit to pop out of the forest. Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates, we head for the upper crag. More routes with a better view. Will post photos soon. Hilsner fra Norge

Norway has great climbing, I have been going for years. Unlike anything in the US in terms of featured, steep granite. Jon, Norway is not in Europe, and it has one of the fiercest traditional ethics I have seen.

Kjetil informed me Norwegians believe all citizens should be able to enjoy all lands, thus the law mandates that people have access on private land. One may even camp there for 2 days without asking permission. At the division between private and public property there was a barbed wire fence. The land owner had built a small ladder straddling it for easy crossing. No need for the Access Fund here as there seems to be no access issues.

I went to Sweden during high school for a short exchange, and my host family took me on a vacation to Norway. Sweden and Norway both have a similar law, and I was super impressed by this. It seems like the law just expects people to take responsibility for themselves on both ends of the deal, and it seems like it works well.

No bolted cracks here. Seems like it is possible, if the first ascentionist wants to bolt, but so far all the cracks I've seen only have anchors at the top. I'm climbing in the area of Haugesund right now. South of Bergen. It has been raining every other day. Crank one day, rest the next. Climbed in 3 areas, Køstas, Valhest, Marvika. Attepted trad at Hodnafjell but got rained off. Marvika was most impressive with overhanging granite jugs. Included are pictures of these areas with some approach pictures. Notice the little ladder the landowner built to cross his barbed wire fence. Heading to Lofoten Island tomorrow above the Arctic Circle. All trad there.

Kårstø, grades 5.9 to 5.12

A typical barb wire fence crossing on private land

A wet approach on the trail to Valhest

Valhest, mostly slabs 5.7 to 5.12

Malvika, overhanging jugs from 5.10 to 5.13. This climb is 11a

More from Malvika. Also Excellent slab climbing just up the road from here