"You know, I'm usually fairly lenient with people. But since you guys weren't honest with me, I'm gonna have to turn you around."

~ Forest Service Ranger

Well, I paid my taxes, drove all the way over here, everything is packed and I'm all fired up for the sharp end again...do you realize what you're asking me to do? Good thing for that "alternate" hiking trail just 200 yards back...and next time just keep doing your trail maintenance thing...i'll keep paying my taxes, leaving no trace, and baggin' peaks!

Great climb. Looking at the route descriptions here on SP I guess we did a variation. We stayed closer to the top of the ridge and crossed over to the west (?) side of the ridge and met up with what looks like the Ulrich route and climbed a chimney up to just below the summit block. Summit block is rather easy step up and super nice views all around. 3hrs from Dade lake to summit. Nice exposed class whatever climbing. Fun summit. Climbed with Miguel Forjan and Mark Ingram. Awesom views. Here are some pics...

Did the north arete in a very long day...beautiful weather all day (we saw both the sunrise and sunset...) fun route. "crux" pitch seemed easier than 5.8, while the second pitch felt harder than 5.7 ...oh well ,ratings are just a guide anyway

Great way to start the day. The snow to Cox col was excellant, the suncups by Treasure Lakes were another stroy, and the route above was solid. Couldn't find the register but did get a good shot of my feet hanging over the south face.

Lots of snow past Long Lake. Treasure Lakes were still frozen. Walked right across what I assume was Dade Lake.

The snow slopes above Dade Lake on the way to Cox Col were in excellent shape and got particularly steep just below the col. From the col, it was an easy scramble to the base of the headwall. Looked for the portion of the headwall shown in Bob Burd's route photo but couldn't ID it. My partner and I scrambled up some off-width cracks/narrow chimneys immediately below the summit crag and soon found ourselves at the summit register in the notch below the highest point. From there, a couple of easy but exposed moves landed me on the highpoint.

The extremely high winds that were forecast turned out to be a bit wimpier, gladly, than predicted.

What an awesome route and a beautiful area! Climbed with Pavel on a glorious day. We belayed for the first five pitches and simuled the rest. Pavel did a masterful job leading the crux pitch (flakes on the right side of the OW). Several moves felt like pretty solid 5.8. It took us about 5 hours from the toe of the arete to the summit. Turns out we were the first party to do the route this year and the second party on the summit. Need to do the East Ridge next year!!

Ullrichs was a devious man! We looked, but never did find a 3rd-class route to the top. After climbing the NE Face we traversed along the ridge north of the summit, then descended to the foot of the Ullrichs/Cox Col route. Climbed the headwall via a nifty 5.6 crack. Awesome views and great climbing! On the way down, we bivvied (planned), rescued two unequipped climbers (unplanned), survived an all-night thunderstorm that dropped 3 inches of hail, then awoke to a wonderful cloudscape of all conceivable colors as the rising sun lit up the peaks and the remains of the storm. What a grand experience!

45 min. after a "no go" decision a hole in the weather appeared. We shoulder'd our packs squeezing through danting Sierra storm threats. Descent in slight drizzle with infrequent bright flashes. It was a great day for us....