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How about a little metal surgery...

04-08-2010, 06:07 PM

I thought some of you guys would enjoy seeing this. This is the boom from a loader that the cylinder got changed for a more powerfull one so it can handle a bigger grab arms system. The guy pick up a big load of trees and dragged them and snap.

A little cut in here and there, then grind paint and inside mill scale of places where the backing will be tacked on. I'm going to have to add a 17 inches boxed piece to replace the mangled steel I cut off the boom. That's what I got done so far. Tommorow is another day.
I'll keep you guys post as I go along if your interested to see the end.

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I like the work you've shown so far.. Just a suggestion though you may have this in mind already.

After the box section is welded in, I'd remove the hydraullic anchor and cut the fish plate back a few inches, then install a longer fish plate to cover the joint a few inches past the weld beside the anchor. Reinstall the anchor and she's back in service.

Just my 2 cents.

Jonny

Jonny

Dynasty 300DX
Esab PCM 1000

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Hey JohnnyTIG, how would you remove the fish plate? Arc gouge? Or would it be easier to remove the section of plate it is on and reskin an extra foot then weld the fish plate back on. Also, are these booms just a-36?

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Air arc the anchor wouldn't be easier as the inside has a fishplate and partition walls as well. And yes Walker it is mild steel.
I'll take a few picks of it tomorrow from the inside.
Hey Jonny, I konw what you mean by taking the cylinder anchor off.
I'll talk to the owner tomorrow about it.
But he seems happy about putting a fish plate over top both cross weld one side as a v shape and the other tying in with the inside of the end v of the cylinder anchor, I will be fish plating both side as well.
You can see the drawing of the fishplate on the tird picture.I wont bother with the bottom shouldn't need it.
It actually wouldn't take that long to take the cylinder anchor off though.
We'll see what he says.
Thanks for the tip, very good idea

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Daniel, If I were you I would put some plates om the inside of the boom extending at least 8" eather side of the crack, I would then take torch cut a groove length wise or parallel to the boom and plug weld the plate.

Note, Theres more pressure being applied to the top and bottom of the boom so thats where you want your fish plates.

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There is already a 3/4" x 3/4" HRS in each of the 4 inside corners that I'm tying in.

Rules of thumb I've been told by a few good welders in this industry is less welding the better, but make sure you have enough though. The walls of the boom are 3/8 thick all around, so I have to stick with 3/8 reinforcement anything thicker will create a too stiff of an area and be prone to cracking, because it wont flex as well as other area.

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Portable, I put 4 1" X 1" hot rolled square on the 4 inside corner welded on to the 1/2" X 1/2" hot rolled square the was already there from the factory. Even though I explain to the owner the 1" X 4" that you recommended, as I liked the idea, he almost went for it. But he believes just the fishplate on the outside will make the boom stronger then when it was new.
PS: Man that's what I call a rig. You almost could put a 20 tonnes press on that rig. Maybe you should.

Jonnytig, I'm going to take a few inches off the cylinder plate with the air arc so I can extend the fishplate passed the groove weld that is right at the tip of it.

Today I finished the inside prep for the new add-ons. Leveled and squared the 2 pieces together. I cut my plates, flame cut my bevels and tacked them in.