I am in the process of designing my Aux Battery system and Trip panel for accessories and I couldn't find a simple chart to help size the wiring, so after a chat to the electrical dept at work we came up with this. I would advise double checking the sizing with a professional before doing any wiring....I hope this is of some use it is set for 12V Car electrics to help determine gauge of wire for a given amp draw over a given distance to minimize current loss. Imperial and metric tables for the old farts and young bucks.

True, but those tables are from US sites where they haven't quite realised that the rest of the world has gone metric. Then they'll refuse to change because it wasn't their idea and some clever cookie will develop their own "metric system" with 10 inches to the metre.

They'll just want to mod the "free rape (er little Johnny's trade) agreement" so that they can flog more imperial cable to us.

Never hurts to go over-size for most 12V apps.

We have to realise that the manufacturers go absolute minimum on everything.

Best one I came across a couple of years ago was discussing wiring with a local panel repair centre.

They were stumped that replacement wire looms for Hyundais were always too short.

On investigation they found out the the Factory orders the wiring shorter than required to save money.Before installation on the production line, the looms are put on stretching machines to bring them up to required fitting lengths.

This has probably been posted before, How many Amps does the MN 2013 alternator put out,Im looking at buying this, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321089674007What is the max i could use before it does damage?

tondo12 wrote:This has probably been posted before, How many Amps does the MN 2013 alternator put out,Im looking at buying this, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321089674007What is the max i could use before it does damage?

Personal opinion, but I reckon redarc quality shits all over projecta stuff. I've never bought a projecta item that didn't break which is why I won't buy their stuff again. Your results may vary however.

you might need a different voltage depending on what battery you choose.something is ringing in my mind that Constant Voltage is better for charging because if the volts are too low it will float at best.

AGMs need 14.4vGels a bit less but take longerLead acid is lower again

i even thought of making my own DC-DC charger. Constant current for the first 85% then finish on Constant Voltage to keep the batteries happy.

Cowboy Dave wrote:I'm no sparky, but I can't see that thing ever pulling 150 amps. A winch will pull more than that but a battery isolator/charger?

Correct. a winch is up to 400Amps. i imagine a dual battery system would pull 30A at best..

maybe the 100A or 150A ratings are just an idea of how much the internals can handle giving you a yard stick that is used to compare against other models. like the useless measure of lumens. its light intensity not a usable unit like lux

Jamoglxr the Ctech dual dc to dc charger looks after the charging of the second battery regardless of type..up to 14.5 volts....it regulates solar imput and once the second battery is charged tops up your starting battery...top bit of gear..

Tondo 12...Your alternator will only put out just below it's rated output ie 90 amps...When its regulator senses the battery is below a specified voltage..it supply's a charge voltage at a regulated amperage..ie 12.5 and cuts of at 13.5. Whilst doing that it supply's enough power to the battery to charge whilst all the time adjusting for the demand for your cars electrical system..The battery is where the big amps get pulled from your system....ie a winch under strain 400amps.....that's why the cables to a winch is so big...compared to the alternators cable that is 1/2 the size...