'11-Up General QuestionsGeneral questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

In my 7.3 I ran Rotella 5/40 synthetic for years. Worked just great, and I towed a 15000 lb 5ver all over the country.--- Ford recommends 5/40 for severe service in my new 2011 6.7. I will change to the 5/40 synthetic at my first oil change.

I have heard some say that Valvoline synthetic 5/40 Premium Blue Extreme Engine Oil is better than the Rotella synthetic. The price of the Rotella is under $20 per gallon. What does the Valvoline cost and is it really any better???????

Any brand of motor oil that is certified to meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) CJ-4 specs is just as good as any other brand that meets CJ-4 specs. If it also meets SAE 5w40 specs, then that one is just as good an any other that meets SAE 5w40 specs. But pay attention. There are some brands of synthetic motor oil that are not certified to meet the API CJ-4 specs. If it doesn't have the API symbol on the package, I'd look for another brand.

So be sure your brand of SAE 5w40 synthetic motor oil has the API symbol with CJ-4 (or later) on the label, and that brand is good to go.

And so do several other brands of synthetic motor oil for turbo-diesel engines, including Schaeffer's, Redline and Royal Purple.

No, the Valvoline is not "better" than the Rotella. But it's just as good. And so is Mobil 1 and several others. So pick the one with the prettiest package - or the cheapest price.

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My Sierra Blanca in the sig pic was a great pickup for 11.5 years. I sold it a coupla years ago. I drove a hand-me-down 2003 F-150 SuperCrew 4.6L 2V for a while, but it was unacceptable for towing more than a rowboat. Replacement is a 2012 F-150 EcoBoost SuperCrew Lariat that tows my 5,000-pound TT like a dream.

Any brand of motor oil that is certified to meet the American Petroleum Institute (API) CJ-4 specs is just as good as any other brand that meets CJ-4 specs. If it also meets SAE 5w40 specs, then that one is just as good an any other that meets SAE 5w40 specs. But pay attention. There are some brands of synthetic motor oil that are not certified to meet the API CJ-4 specs. If it doesn't have the API symbol on the package, I'd look for another brand.

So be sure your brand of SAE 5w40 synthetic motor oil has the API symbol with CJ-4 (or later) on the label, and that brand is good to go.

So is that the consensus? Whatever the cheapest is of the three mentioned above? I have been kicking the same thing around too. Does it make any difference if you switch brands through the life of the vehicle if the deals change? Thanks for the post Smokey, a ton of information.

No. That's only if you have already decided that you want to use synthetic 5w40, regardless of the economic sense it makes.

But the use of the higher-priced synthetic motor oil is not cost effective, so if you want the motor oil that makes the most economic sense you will chose a lower-cost dino oil that meets API CJ-4/SM spec. There are several, all SAE 15w40, including Shell Rotella T, Chevron DELO 400, and Mobil 1300 Super. And don't forget Wal-Mart's house brand, SuperTech or some such. If it meets API CJ-4/SM, that's as good as it gets. Any differences are in hype and advertising.

Yes, it's okay to mix various brands of turbo-diesel motor oil. It better be okay. Because when you change oil you only change a certain percentage of the oil, and the remainder stays in the engine and mixes with the new oil. For example, my 7.3L takes 15 quarts for an oil and filter change, but there is at least another quart in the HPOP reservoir that doesn't drain. So every oil change I'm mixing 15 quarts of new oil with at least one quart of old oil.

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