The stretch of Fremont Boulevard known as “Little Kabul” is the cultural hub for the Bay Area’s Afghan population, one of the largest in the United States. Located near the intersection of Central Avenue, the neighborhood boasts a cluster of Afghan markets and eateries.

Chief among these is De Afghanan, which is marked by a little walled patio in front. The courtyard has a few outdoor cafe tables, but it seems more charming than operational. On the warm summer night we went, there was a wait to be seated, but neither the servers nor the customers seemed to consider the al fresco dining option. Inside was where the action was, and judging by almost all the tables in the joint, the action was all about bolani.

Almost every table was dominated by an expansive basket of the thin flatbread, which at De Afghanan is filled with either leeks or potato, along with a touch of red pepper flakes. These days, bolani can be found everywhere — at farmers markets, even Costco — but the floppy premade renditions are a far cry from crispy, just-off-the griddle bolani. De Afghanan’s comes with a generous side of tangy house-made yogurt, which provides welcome comfort for those who don’t have the patience to let the bread cool off before devouring it. The 16-slice order ($9.94, or $5.94 for a half-order) is so popular that the restaurant stocks pizza boxes for those who can’t finish it or want an extra order to take home.

Kebabs are the restaurant’s other main draw, and the menu features nine kebab plates, including two kinds of lamb, a few types of beef, and combination platters. We had one of the combos, and found that the fiery chapli kebab, an expertly spiced and grilled minced beef patty, with bits of boiled egg and scallion, particularly stood out. The chicken kebab, composed of improbably huge chunks of chicken breast, were tender and well-marinated, but one piece was undercooked — a surprising misstep for a place that probably grills hundreds of pounds of meat a week between its own kitchen and its kebab house down the street.

There are in fact two De Afghanans located in Little Kabul (as well as other branches in Berkeley and Livermore), both started by Aziz Omar and his family. This one, De Afghanan Cuisine, is a sit-down restaurant, while the others are takeout-oriented kebab joints. Although the restaurant is certainly a step up from its humble sister establishment, De Afghanan Cuisine is hardly an upscale, cloth-napkin place; everyone from the diners to friendly servers was sporting jeans and sneakers, contributing to a casual vibe. Deep red- and pumpkin-colored walls, some of which are punched out with Arabian-style arches, pop against the black furniture, tables, and floors. A dark brick fireplace looms on one side of the room, while the other is dominated by an open kitchen and colorful mural of the Afghan countryside. Bold artwork, such as gold-touched bas reliefs and a signature carved wooden door, adds to the dramatic interior.

The restaurant definitely tries to evoke the experience of the old country, and they couldn’t do that without offering what arguably is the country’s national dish: Qabili Pallow ($13.94), rice with lamb. De Afghanan’s version arrives as a towering mound of seasoned rice artfully decorated with shaved carrot and raisins — the quintessential picture of Afghan generosity. It’s typically served at weddings and festivals, and the massive portion at De Afghanan definitely can make this dish the center of a communal meal.

Most other entrees come with either challow (white jasmine rice) or pallow (brown rice). By “brown rice,” they don’t mean rice with the hull, but rather basmati rice with hints of cinnamon and other spices.

Other traditional offerings include aush ($5.94), a tomato soup with beans and noodles and a bit of beef. This was the only real letdown of our meal; when it arrived in its white tureen, we couldn’t help but think that it looked like Campbell’s, right down to the flabby noodles. Unfortunately, what we saw tasted like what we got. We had better luck with other appetizers, several of which doubled as vegetarian entrees.

For example, the Kado Borani ($8.94 as an entree, $6.94 as an appetizer) is a popular dish of sugar-roasted pumpkin or squash striped with thick, garlicky yogurt, which lends a savory touch. A sprinkle of mint and a squeeze of lime help cut the sweetness. The pumpkin is cooked well, with just the right balance of denseness and creaminess. The Sabzi Challow ($8.94, or $10.94 with lamb shank), a traditional New Year’s Eve food, is a generous dish of chopped spinach with onions and herbs; it is similar to Indian saag, but lighter on the dairy and spice.

One can be forgiven for comparing the food of Afghanistan, which is located at the center of ancient trade routes, with its close culinary cousins. Red-marinated chicken kebabs resemble tandoori chicken; the raisin-studded qabili pallow is reminiscent of that food of kings, Persian jeweled rice; while cumin-rubbed meat evokes Mongolian cuisine.

Maybe that’s why the restaurant, although it has its share of Afghan clientele, also turns out food that is appealing enough to draw the full spectrum of Fremont’s wonderfully diverse community. On the busy night we went, most of the tables were taken up by Asian friends and families feasting on grilled meats, rice dishes, and, of course, bolani. Like Afghanistan itself, De Afghanan embraces a mix of cultural influences, and the neighborhood has embraced it back.

We don’t let restaurants know that we are coming in to do a review, and we strive to remain anonymous. If we feel we have been recognized or are given special treatment, we will tell you. We pay for our meal, just as you would.

Ratings

Restaurants are rated on a scale of one to four, with four representing a truly extraordinary experience for that type of restaurant.

Price code

$ Most entrees under $10$$ Most entrees under $20$$$ Most entrees under $30$$$$ Most entrees under $40