Hurdles behind them, Branchline brewers launch three beers

Updated 5:31 pm, Friday, January 11, 2013

Longtime homebrewer Les Locke was about to move to Washington, D.C., to start a job with the State Department when his phone rang with an unknown number showing. On the other end was Jason Ard, who was looking to open a brewery locally and needed a head brewer.

After meeting over a few pints to discuss their philosophies of brewing, a partnership was born that this week saw the first kegs of beer from Branchline Brewing Company go on tap around town.

The intervening year hasn't been easy. With the assistance of his father, Les Sr., they have spent many hours turning a nondescript warehouse north of the airport into San Antonio's second active production brewery. Along the way, they even had to change the brewery's name, originally slated to be Old Boxcar, after a legal challenge from a similarly named brewery in Pennsylvania.

Now that all the legal and construction hurdles are behind them, they've turned to brewing three full-time beers. The lightest is the Shady Oak Blonde Ale, which will appeal to a wide range of beer drinkers. It's brewed with a bit of locally produced honey that makes the beer dry and slightly floral. Since different flowers bloom at different times, the honey's character will change throughout the year, something a sensitive palate may notice in the beer as well. The Evil Owl Amber Ale will be a more full-flavored beer with moderate hoppiness and some caramel notes in the finish. The Woodcutter Rye IPA will appeal to hopheads with its 65 IBU and late additions of Amarillo and Cascade hops. The rye will give it a fuller body and a hint of spiciness.

Aside from its mainstays, Branchline plans to release eight to 10 specialty beers per year. Some will be one-time brews, while others will make an appearance every once in a while. One from the latter category is an oyster stout made with Texas coastal oysters, which sounds crazy but isn't — oysters contribute salt and minerals that can enhance other flavors in dark beers. Another recurring theme will be beers using different kinds of peppers, possibly inspired by a wild chile pequin bush that's growing right outside the brewery's front door. Branchline is also planning a barrel-aging program for the future.

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I'm familiar with Les Locke's talent for brewing with unusual ingredients from his involvement with the Bexar Brewers homebrew club, so I have high expectations for the specialty beers. I once had a blue cheese porter from him that defied my skepticism and tasted wonderful.

Branchline's beers are initially going to be available on draft only. The company plans to be in about 30 restaurants and bars around San Antonio and about half a dozen in New Braunfels. As it gets established, it plans to can its three mainstays for sale in grocery stores and to bottle its specialty beers, especially the ones intended to improve with age.

Check out the Food Flashes blog on mysanantonio.com for pictures of the brewery and tasting notes on the beers.

Markus Haas is the beer writer for the Express-News. Follow him on Twitter @saen_beerguy or email mhaas@express-news.net.