Sandy, the BlueOx works well. I use one on my "other brand" camper trailer.

The correct procedure for connecting and disconnecting the weight bars is outlined in the instructions that come with the hitch. The basic idea is to "remove ALL of the load from the bars, BEFORE rotating the latches". You do this by raising the tongue of the trailer, and the back of the truck with the tongue jack of the trailer. If you raise it to the correct height, you can easily and safely turn the latches, essentially bare handed. If you are "needing" to use a long lever to turn the latches, that is a sign you have not yet raised the trailer and truck high enough with the tongue jack.

EDIT: ps, blue ox also makes a set of latches that bolt on to the side of the trailer a-frame rails. Those cannot "come off the trailer by accident" like the saddle style latch can if it comes loose.

I would like to see a live demonstration of your doing it by hand method. 😜

__________________

__________________MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."

I would like to see a live demonstration of your doing it by hand method.

Michael,
I'll be glad to do that later when it cools off outside. I'll have to set the camera on a tripod and do a video of it. But I'm not gonna go out there in mid nineties heat in the sun to do it right now !

No ambulance needed Michael ! If you get the load off the chains/bars, a six year old could easily do this. Don't pop the popcorn just yet....too danged hot out there right now ! I'll do it later when it cools off.

I think some folks may think they can't really jack it up that high with the trailer tongue jack. Viewed from the side, it does look pretty strange, because it's of course raising the back of the truck too. On my manual crank jack, it just happens to work out to about "thirty spins of the crank handle", so I just count it out as I go for the sake of speed and getting it right first time.
The newest style of "bolt around" latches that Blue Ox sells, looks like they will attach very securely indeed and also they do not require drilling thru the trailer a-frame. They are pretty expensive though.

If your Reese Dual Cam is noisy, it's not properly adjusted.....simple as that..
Take it to a dealer that knows how to set them up, and lube them in the right places with the right lube, and you'll have a great, (and quiet) set up..

Just sayin'.

Larry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hiho Silver

I had an equalizer and now I have a reese dual cam, and they are both noisy, even after "broken in". Grease helps, but still noisy in my experience. Awchief, glad to hear your blue ox is silent, we put a deposit down on a 2016 and the dealer, Foley, is highly recommending the blue ox. I'm leaning toward getting one.
Sandy

Reese states in their install instructions apparently that some noise is normal. They do state you have the option to use "vaseline" on the contact points of the cam if the TW is under 1200 pounds, and with TW over 1200 pounds, the use of the lubricant "may be necessary".
They state do NOT use grease.

Vaseline IS a lubricant. Reese recommends a light coating of it on the cams.
The other points they recommend at at the point where the trunnion bars engage the ball mount, I use a white lithium grease, or you can also use 3 in 1 oil.
Also, the ball needs to be coated, yes, it can be messy, but that's just the way it is...
These points I've mentioned are the main sources of any noise.