Stavanger has seen some heavy storms lately. The big spenders from the oil industry have been subject to a tighter spending regime since oil prices plummeted in 2015, and restaurants have watched their golden age wither away. But they still come to Matbaren, all those whose spending habits have been reduced to fewer plates and to burgundies of the lesser villages. The rest come here too, after their shopping sprees, or just to warm up after a walk in the heavy winds that tend to oppress this city. Sven Erik Renaa runs the place with his wife and together they have steered this ship steadily through the rough financial times. At Matbaren the food is robust. Their take on modern bistro fare is both filling and elegant. At lunchtime there are Copenhagen-style open-faced sandwiches to be had, with cod, liver pâté, and roast beef among others. The open kitchen gives the wooden interior a warmth and livens up the dining room. The chefs work at a nice pace, not too loud and not too disturbing, and act as a combination of backdrop and entertainment. The highlights of the dinner service are the meats and fish. At Matbaren they are particular in their selection, and the rib-eye is dry-aged from an older animal. Because of its age the meat has nutty flavours, and together with a béarnaise, a big portion of fries and a deep-fried onion ring, it all comes together in a unified dish. The fat in the lightly grilled rib-eye melts on the tongue, and the buttery sauce gives the fat just the right amount of acidity to make you close your eyes and chew slowly so as to enjoy the last little bit and fibre of flavour...

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Top 30 Nordic List

With over 100 Masters Level restaurants, the Nordic countries offer a wide variety of excellent culinary experiences. The Top 30 are all at the Global Masters level and they include some of the best restaurants in the world.