Stormriding Chile

CHILE

INTRODUCTION
Thick waves are the norm along the coastline of this thin country that reaches from Peru to the polar regions of Antarctica and measures a mind-boggling 6,435km (4000 mi) of Pacific coastline. Given such scope, it's little wonder that discoveries have been filtering through to the outside world of hard-barrelling slabs, long-loping points and huge tow-in monsters. Recent limelight has shone through the pro surfing competition in Arica up north and the threat of environmental disasters down south, but the real appeal is in the awesome waves that constantly pound this endless coastline.

SWELL
Chile is the brick wall at the end of the Pacific Ocean, halting all the power and fury of the southern ocean swells and smashing them on an ancient coastline of metamorphic and sedimentary rocks. Statistically, the entire coast of Chile is incredibly consistent; the ever-present S to W swell supply usually sweeps in between 190

WINDS
Almost as reliable as the swell, Chile's wind pattern is largely due S, with a slight lean to the E for most months, especially in the morning as the desert land breeze blows SE, pretty much directly offshore. Overall, wind speeds can only be described as low to moderate (5-15mph) up north, then gradually gathering pace as you head south towards the storm belt. Much of the coast is also slightly tilted towards the NW, helping improve the offshore angle during S winds, particularly in the southern corners of beaches and in the lee of headlands. Taking all these factors together, it is not surprising to learn that 5 star surf days occur 30% of the time and 4 stars happen over 50% of the time almost every month.

TIDES
Chile's tidal range sits at the high end of the micro tidal scale, measuring between 1.5-2m (5-6ft), but that much change in height can be the difference between rideable and ridiculous on the shallow slab reefs in Arica and Iquique. The rivermouths down south are also affected, and tend to prefer more water. It is surprising that the country with the world's longest north to south coastline has such little variation in tidal height, but it is all good news for surfers as it just adds to the consistency figures.

CURRENTS & TEMPERATURES
The bountiful Humboldt Current creates seasonal upwelling along the coast of Chile, bringing in 15-20% of world marine catches from just 1% of the world's ocean surface (up to 20M tons per year for Peru and Chile combined). It also keeps the coastal waters seriously cool for most of the year, with winter lows of 16

ARICA

THE SURF
The extreme north of Chile showcases a string of gnarly reefbreaks, breaking close to the shore, on the wave-rich Alacran Peninsula. When groups of Peruvian and southern Chilean surfers discovered the potential in the late '70s, skills and equipment prevented the pioneers from tackling the reefbreaks, so the surfing scene was focused on the friendlier beachbreaks north of town. Since then, brave locals and visitors have ventured into the shallow, hard-breaking line-ups like El Gringo and have paddled or towed into the outside bombs of El Buey. When the pro circus arrived in 2007, even the world's best struggled to tame the tubes, so this is definitely not a zone for beginners. It is super-consistent for swell and light winds so late summer may be the ideal time to visit this city of eternal spring in the world's driest desert, the Atacama. Only 20km (12.5mi) from the Peruvian border, Arica has become a tax-free party town with lot's of Chilean and international tourists drawn to the city's beaches and nightlife.

FORECASTING
S-SW swells from the Antarctic's lows are super-consistent and send plenty of large swells in winter and a reasonable amount in the summer. It's advantageous to be located in the north of the country to avoid being pounded by constant storms. Breaking waves vary between 3-15ft (1-5m) year round. Some of the spots will break even better with the occasional summer NW swells between November and March. S-SE wind dominance remains around 65% year round, with more SE, except between Oct-Nov. Annually, 10-12% of the time it is calm. Mornings are typically windless, then light offshores pick up till noon when gentle S sea breezes create a little chop on the wave face. Some spots are really wind sensitive and are only surfed in the morning. Tidal range never exceeds 6ft (2m), but is relevant for the shallow Alacran reefs.

HOTSPOT - EL GRINGO
Sometimes nicknamed the Chilean Pipeline, El Gringo is another tubular A-frame crashing close to the shore with serious power. It's a fast wave too, pushing surfers to go for broke and score a great barrel or get slammed on the reef. The left is the real deal with compression tubes and a more predictable rate of speed and openness, once the lurching air-drop has been negotiated. Paddling out to the left is fraught with nose-crunching duck dives and currents that can hold you in the impact zone for an eternity. Meanwhile, the symmetry-balancing right holds a bigger SW swell and throws wide before triangulating the wall into deeper water that provides a far safer paddling channel back to the peak. Tide is dependant on size, as it is usually the small swells that lure victims onto the barely watered rocky platform. If the description doesn't make it obvious this is an experts wave then the hazards may help. Ultra-shallow sharp reef studded with urchins and some barnacles, swept by currents and occasionally patrolled by aggressive sea-lions and the areas best surfers, who wont take any nonsense. It's cold, foggy and generally a scary vibe unless you feel right at home in the maw of one of Chile's best waves. Crowds have increased since Rip Curl ran the Search in 2007.

HOTSPOT - EL BUEY
El Buey is a big wave arena, 700m (2100ft) offshore from the modern beach scene of playa El Laucho. Even though it can break both ways, the left remains the better option, as it's always hollower than the right. The left will focus S-SSW swells into booming barrels, while the right will wall up anything with more W in it and offer roller coaster walls. The spot can hold 20ft (6m), but is quite wind sensitive. Breaks with medium consistency and is rarely-crowded over a large, shifting peak playing field. Set dodging experience and big lungs required when it heads beyond the triple-overhead mark.

IQUIQUE

THE SURF
Iquique sits 400km (250mi) further south of Arica and also holds a very concentrated stretch of challenging reefbreaks. Most of the waves along this coastline break close to the shore as cylindrical barrels slamming down hard onto shallow reefs full of urchins. It's often big and gnarly and many of the spots are more suitable for bodyboarders or the most skilled of surfers. Fortunately, there are channels, which enable safe paddle outs to most line-ups. When looking at the waves from the shore it's easy to be deceived by the size, what appears to be 4ft (1.5m) is actually 6-8ft (2-2.5m)! All these waves face the main coastal road, and when the swells are big, crowds are guaranteed to gather and watch the show. What beachbreaks there are, tend to be closed and blown-out unless the swell is small, which doesn't happen often in Chile! With new extreme waves like La Bestia being discovered, this is another region for experienced riders only. Iquique is a big industrial and mining port so it's lively, day and night.

FORECASTING
Constant S-SW swells between 3-15ft (1-5m) come pouring off the Roaring Forties year-round, although winter obviously sees more of the bigger swells that hit double figures. The predominant wind is from the S with less SE than Arica and a trend towards more SSW variations accounting for at least 25% of the time all year. Glassy mornings are common, especially in summer when wind speeds back off to 0-10mph most of the time and long period 20 second swells can arrive in the 6-8ft (2-2.5m) range. Most of the rights are very wind sensitive, since the SW-facing coastal angle is not ideal. Mid to high tide is the go for most spots, as a 1m (3ft) drop in coverage from mid to low will expose many rocks. Conversely, some waves need the low tide to break far enough out and off the rocks.

HOTSPOT - EL COLEGIO
Iquique's banner spot is Colegio, found just opposite the main high school. It's a thick, muscle-bound right that pumps up nicely as the swell increases and will handle up to the triple-overhead mark fairly effortlessly. Following the local trend for vertical drops into a draining barrel section, the difference here is it can keep spinning down the line for a good 100m. Picture perfect in the sparkling morning glass, it is still a challenging prospect and lesser surfers should beware. Handles most tides through the size range and prefers the push, with high giving more room for error on the peak. Needs at least headhigh conditions to start breaking and just gets better from there. So crowds of rippers and bodyboarders will be on hand when it is firing, which is fairly often and travellers need to show respect to both the locals and the wave. The Vertical Surf Shop is just across the road and a main hang out, with good stock of surfing essentials. Watch out for clean-up sets that close out the channel and keep an eye on the outside indicator bomboras.

ANTOFAGASTA

THE SURF
Much like Chile itself, the city of Antofagasta is long and narrow, sandwiched between the mighty Pacific Ocean and the lofty Andes mountains. The largest city of the Norte Grande region, Antofagasta lays just 10km (6mi) south of the Tropic of Capricorn. With 20km (12mi) of sandy beaches scattered among rocky coves, this port town is increasingly turning into a beach resort, but still lacks attractiveness for the tourist masses. It's also off the beaten path for surfers, who tend to congregate at the northern cities of Arica and Iquique. Things may change with the completion of the Ruta 1 coastal highway which makes the 400km (250mi) long Iquique-Antofagasta stretch of coastline much more accessible. In the meantime, there is more variety to the surf here, with beachbreaks among crazy rock formations, some longer left points like Piedra del Lobo and La Puntilla as well as the obligatory Chilean death slab known as Nuluhaga, south of town. Not beginner territory, but intermediates will be able to manage the points.

FORECASTING
Average annual statistics paint a rosy picture for this area; swell is from the SSW at around 7-8ft (2.5m), with a solid 12-13 second period with swell consistency in the region of 98%! The only detractor is a summer shift in the wind to SSW and SW most days, but they will be lighter than winter. Winter will kink back towards due S and increase in speed up to 20mph (32kmh). There is a 5% chance there will be no wind right through the seasons and those early/late glass offs are important for the exposed breaks. Lots of spots are rideable at all tides, regardless of the 2m change in height. Just off the coastline here, the Peru-Chile Trench plunges to depths of 8064m.

HOTSPOT - LA CÚPULA
Regularly picked as a national contest site, Cúpula is regarded as the best wave in the region. It breaks best at 6-12ft (2-4m) and locals compare it to Tavarua. Exaggeration or not, the wave is indeed a long left with several tubular sections, breaking over magma rock reef. The occasional shorter right can be ridden as well. Friendly locals may give tips on how to handle the rocks sticking out in front of the wave and the urchins and seashells covering the seafloor.

ATACAMA & COQUIMBO

THE SURF
Distances are so vast, Chile has a numerical naming system and this 'Norte Chico' zone straddles the regions of Atacama (Region 3) and Coquimbo (Region 4), relatively close to Chile's capital, Santiago. Totoralillo has sprung up as a popular summer resort and crowds flock to the beach hotels overlooking a hammerhead peninsula that bends lefts and rights down both sides with impressive regularity. The outside sections are fast and hollow while the inside gets easier plus there are plenty of adjacent beachbreaks that make this area actually suitable for beginners and rippers alike. The fancy La Serena resort town has a golf course and a rare right pointbreak north at Teatinos, plus 12 exposed, pounding, A-frame beachies running along the Avenida del Mar down to the city of Coquimbo.

FORECASTING
Winter wave face heights sometimes reach 20ft (6m) with 12-14 second period, but late summer is the best time for clean surf in the 6-8ft (2-2.5m) range. The waves have juice all year and foreign surfers have been impressed by the raw power of the surf and the vast potential for discovery. There are rideable waves almost every day of the year, courtesy of the Humboldt Current, which pushes constant swell along Chilean shores. Deep winter can feel chilly (sic!) so mid-seasons are best for swell, winds and weather. Summer is fine especially on the WSW-facing beachbreaks with potential for very long distance (20sec +) NW swells from the North Pacific, but it can be crowded at Totoralillo and prices are higher. In the northern half of Chile, atmospheric circulation is largely controlled by the South Pacific High, resulting in winds blowing parallel to the coast north of 31

VALPARAISO & O'HIGGINS

THE SURF
Pichilemu is probably the most famous surf town in Chile, situated in the south of this zone, which combines Region V and VI in the numerical naming system of Chile. Because both Valparaiso & O'Higgins encircle the Región Metropolitana de Santiago, it is also the most populated, with plenty of weekend warriors making the 120km trip to the beaches from the capital. Long lefthand points begin to appear in the southern corners of the bays along with some strong beachbreaks along the Vina del Mar stretch up to Ritoque, where surfing started back in the early '70s. This area is where most city folk will get their first taste of surfing, before heading south to the more challenging setups of Pichilemu, where the awesomely long and handsome lefts of Puertecillo, La Puntilla and Punta de Lobos await in a coldwater goofy-footers paradise. This is the most flexible and accessible zone in all of Chile with something for everyone and is the heart of the growing Chilean surf scene.

FORECASTING
S to SW and even due W swells appear from Antarctica lows, with sizes varying from 2-18ft (0.5-6m) year-round. The dominant wind comes from the S varying from 32% of the time in June to 55% of the time from Oct through to Feb. The winter period of May-July also gets a lot of NW-NE winds (30-40%), which is unheard of further north. The remainder of the year sees a light S or SW pattern. This means that the north-facing coves will often be offshore, favouring lefts. Mid to high tides are the go at most spots. The tidal range of 6ft (2m) is significant, but it's hard to find a tide table.

HOTSPOT - PUERTECILLO
One of Chile's most sought after left pointbreaks and renowned for epic, long, sand dredging barrels. It's nestled in the lee of the stubby headland with good south wind protection, but that also means it needs a decent dose of swell to get going. Always much smaller than the waves in Pichilemu, ideal conditions include at least a 3m SW swell, SE or no wind, outgoing tide from mid and hopefully a mellow, mid-week crowd. When the sand is parked, waves of up to 700m are possible. It's pretty inconsistent and can be uninspiring when small and broken up. The land is privately owned by a corporation with development aspirations. Plans for a marina have been shelved but a large housing development may replace the natural environment, that has been impacted by decades of camping. Permission slips must be obtained before arriving at the camping area and surf camp. This is now reportedly only possible in Santiago. The access roads are rough and getting lost is easy. Summer crowds and drop-ins are a given and seeing 100 people in the line-up is normal for peak periods. The rip current is a constant drain and it is way too sucky for beginners or improvers to get much joy.

HOTSPOT - PUNTA DE LOBOS
Proclaimed "The best left pointbreak in Chile" by local big-wave maestro Ramon Navarro and few could argue when witnessing a monster SW swell detonating way outside the iconic rocks that guard the entrance to the bay. Lobos is not just for XXL days either, with a ripable, sand-bottomed section known as Diamante on the inside for the groms and the pilots. Further up the point, the El Mirador section has summer peelers rotating past the shoreline rock clusters, or muscle-bound walls linking from the rocks all the way to the beach sections in a lined-up SW-W swell. Too much S swell will ramp up the current, while W will shut down the outside barrels so SW @ 235

Punta de Lobos continued...
Prefers lower tides, but will break right through. The paddle-out from the island rocks (Los Morros) has achieved legendary status for sketchiness - dashing across the slippery shelf from a hiding place in the rocks when there is a lull has caught many out. Experts only when it gets above double-overhead. Summer beach party scene, surf shop on point and skate ramp on the beach for flat days, which are pretty rare. Punta Lobos is one of the most consistent spots in the southern hemisphere, let alone Chile so don't expect to get it to yourself.

BIOBIO

THE SURF
The word frontier is often used to describe this verdant southern region, but considering there is another 2500kms of coastline stretching down to the tip of the continent, it's probably more like the gateway to the real frontier further south. The city of Concepcion is large and industrialised, creating various environmental problems for the close-knit community of surfers who have been battling to keep the coast clean. The waves are often also a battle, with huge stormy swells sweeping in from the S and W and hitting a few newly discovered tow-in spots. Left pointbreaks are clustered in the north, while left rivermouths dominate the central and southern parts of the zone, including Buchupureo, a less than secret barrelling left. Many of these point/rivermouth set-ups rely really heavily on sand build-up, so don't expect to get the high consistency rates of some of the rocky points further north. There are some mushy, beginner friendly waves like Pullay and Rinconada, plus a healthy number of open beachbreaks that just love a small peaky summer pulse. Bring plenty of rubber as the water rarely tops 15

HOTSPOT - BUCHUPEREO
Buchupureo is the standout break with La Boca, meaning rivermouth, grooming the sand into really long lefts, breaking in 2-3 sections and it's protected from S winds. Barrel time can reach a handful of seconds and comparisons with Mundaka means it gets crowded at times. Has been the subject of many a secret spot campaign and remains a low key spot. Some vibe is bound to be encountered from the "we were here first" crew of non-domicile surfers. Consistency is as variable as the flow of sand from the rivermouth.