"To the extent we've gotten pretty good at making the Mirabelle, it's by virtue of careful blending of these older lots that are very much A grade. In some ways I think it's the hardest one to put together."

— Hugh Davies, Schramsberg

Sparkling Wine

The American sparkling wine industry is clearly being pulled in two directions. One school of thought sees a need for sweeter, easy-to-please bottles. The other is holding true to the vision of pioneers like Schramsberg, trying to create crisp, food-loving alternatives to French Champagne.

That latter style is proliferating in regular nonvintage brut as well as vintage and rosé bottlings. Top houses are hunting colder vineyard sites and reducing the amount of added sugar used to finesse the wines. The result is more sublime and affordable bottles that can be enjoyed year-round.

NV Domaine Carneros Cuvee de la Pompadour Carneros Brut Rosé ($36, 12% alcohol):There's some finesse at work on Duhig Road, seeing as the pink version of Carneros' brut shows a remarkable focus and distinction, with depth from added Pinot Noir. Accents of rose hip, damp stone and bread dough provide depth to this tight-knit, raspberry-inflected effort.

NV Domaine Chandon Brut Classic California Sparkling ($22, 13%): Winemaker Tom Tiburzi has been fine-tuning Chandon's trademark bottle, with less added sweetness and more focus on the fruit. It's paying off beautifully, with rich pear-tart aromas and a bounty of fruit and pastry flavors. The bright lemon-oil and sea-foam accents signal a wine with serious intent.

2000 Gloria Ferrer Carneros Cuvee Carneros Sparkling ($50, 12.5%): This long-aged reserve bottle from Ferrer shows its commitment to the potential of Carneros. After a full decade on its lees, this is simultaneously opulent and precise. Aromas of citrus pith, thyme, pear skin and yeast underscore remarkable youth for a 10-year-old wine.

NV J Vineyards Russian River Valley Brut Rosé ($28, 12.5%): There's a return to form at this Healdsburg house, with its pink brut offering a sweet yeasty note that underscores raspberry and rose petal, and vibrant citrus tying it all together in a mouthwatering way. Think of it for the holiday table.

NV Scharffenberger Mendocino County Brut ($19, 12%): Now affiliated with its neighbor, Roederer Estate, this longtime local fave (just renamed Brut Excellence) has found a new level of precision for its quintessentially California style of sparkling. There's just a hint of a soft side to an otherwise steely texture, with green apple, poppy seed and morning bun flavors underscored by a perfect mineral bite. The best hidden value in American fizz.

NV Schramsberg Mirabelle North Coast Brut ($25, 12.8%): Schramsberg's nonvintage second bottling is stellar right now. A Chardonnay-dominant blend is fresh with tree fruit, freesia and chalk accents, and a wonderful strawberry edge from its Pinot Noir. Just enough bready opulence without losing its playfulness.