Tuesday, May 6, 2014

The Little Red Schoolhouse is the 4th structure in my Little
village series of tiny printie, cut
& glue buildings. It can be used as
a stand-alone piece displayed under a glass dome and such, or it can become a
toy in a dollhouse or toy store, etc. It
can also be transformed into a glitter building (as described for the church in
this series) or become part of a snow village.

To construct the Schoolhouse print
out a copy of the pdf file at the very end of this post onto matte presentation paper using your
printer’s best settings. This will give you a true to scale, true to color,
detailed printie. When the ink has set,
use small sharp scissors to cut out
the building.

Using a pointed stylus & a
straight edge, score across all tabs, sides and bottom lines. Fold the side and bottom tabs in at right
angles. Using glue stick applied
with a small stiff-bristled brush glue
sides and bottom together to form the shape.

Cut out roof. Score across both lines. Fold & glue stick in half so that the
underside of the roof as marked is on the bottom. When glue has set, fold in half again. Use a gray
watercolor pencil to color white edges. Fold
the top tabs of the building in at right angles. Using glue stick adhere the roof to the top
of the building so it sits evenly.

Cut out the steeple and glue
it together as for the schoolhouse. Glue
it evenly to the top of the schoolhouse.
Prepare the steeple’s roof as
for the schoolhouse roof. Before you
glue it in place, use a needle to poke a hole in in its center. Glue the roof in place on the steeple.

Cut out windows and glue stick
over matching images on the building.

Roughly cut out door and glue
to a double thickness of a scrap of the same paper. Cut out and glue over its image on the
building.

Glue the triangle overhang to
5 layers of scrap of the same paper. Cut
out and glue in place on the building.

Rough cut the school sign and
glue it to two layers of scrap of the same paper. Cut out.
Color edges with a watercolor
pencil in a tint close to the color of the schoolhouse. Glue in place on the building.

Cut out the flag & score
in half (this is probably easier to do before cutting it out). Cut about a 3/8” long piece of very thin brass wire. Fold the flag in half on the score line and
glue it around the wire, tops even. Poke
the other end of the wire into the needle hole in the steeple roof, adjusting
its height to your liking.

To create the tiny Schoolhouse
Vignette as scene here:

The school sits on a base of a 1-7/16 sq. matboard. To prepare the base paint the top a grass
green.

Cut a piece of lightweight gray paper to shape shown on diagram and glue
(gluestick) it in place for the walkway & sidewalk.

Trim the edges of the base with a fine gray cording such Bunka
using a craft glue such as Crafter’s
Pick The Ultimate.

Glue the schoolhouse in place on the base.

Using a fine model railroad
turf/grass such as http://www.amazon.com/JTT-Landscaping-Material-Blended-Autumn/dp/B002PP0GNE sift it with a fine mesh strainer to get the finest
of the material. Using a small
stiff-bristled brush, apply a light coating of glue stick to the green area of
the base. Immediately sprinkle on your
prepared grass and lightly tamp with a dry small bristled bush. Tap and shake off excess grass.

For hedge use a green pipe cleaner -these are narrower than the usual
chenille stems. Paint with green acrylic
paint to covering any exposed wire. When
the paint has dried t trim about half of the “fur” off all around the wire. It
should be no thicker than the space in back of the schoolhouse. Sharply bend and cut two pieces, each to fit
across the front of the lawn/down the side/and to center back. It may take a while to get the exact fit with
sharp corners but keep tying on until they fit.
Using craft glue put them in place on the base.

For interest I added a white “post” on either side of the entrance that sits a bit higher than the hedge. A section of round toothpick, especially one
with a carved top, can easily be sanded down and shaped a bit to use here.

Seven school children with back packs are in front of the school, (N
Scale from PeopleScale, http://www.peoplescale.com/ ). There is also
one dog ( n scale Dogs and Cats from
Woodland Scenics (these are oh so tiny…one is forever lost on my workroom
floor) http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com ) who followed its
master to school & is being told to “GO HOME!”

Thursday, May 1, 2014

“FASHION” is the 3rd structure in my series of tiny printie, cut &
glue, paper buildings. As with the others, it can be used as a stand-alone
piece, showcased under a dome and such, or it can become a toy in a dollhouse
toy store or child’s room, etc. You may
decide to transform it into a glitter building as was done for the Church in a
previous post here.

As seen, the shop has been glued
to a 1-7/16” sq. matboard base topped with gray paper. The edges of the base are covered with gray
bunka cording http://secondchildhoodminiatures.com/supplies.html , starting and
stopping at center back. After the shop
has been glued in place, both sides of it have a low planting (a green pipe
cleaner -these are narrower than the usual chenille stems- painted with green
acrylic paint to cover any exposed wire.
When the paint has dried the “fur” of the stem is trimmed almost to the
wire. Two pieces the width of the sides
of the building are cut and glued to the base, snugged to the building. For interest, the tiniest of red “berries”,
sifted from Woodland Scenics’ Fruit are glued on the greenery, here and there
(these are three bags of the tiniest of no-hole bead, one each of red, orange
and white. They have many uses
mini-wise, think maraschino cherries, holly berries, & so on)

A sign out front (printie) tells us “Fashions” is having a sale and our
village ladies have turned out to shop for good bargains. (Window Shoppers & Pedestrians from
Woodland Scenics N Scale www.wow.com/Woodland+Scenics
.)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Using the PDF file attached, print out the building on
matte presentation paper using your printer’s best settings.

Cut out the building; score on tabs and bottom/sides
lines. Fold side tabs to inside at 45
degree angle to sides. Glue front and
back to sides on tabs.

Fold in roof tabs at 45 degrees. Cut out roof, score across center both
ways. Glue in half with lined section to
top. Use a watercolor pencil in a shade
to match roof color to cover the white edges.
Fold across center and glue to building’s top tabs, centered all the way
around with folded edge facing front.

Glue the four windows and the door to a scrap piece of the
same paper. When glue has set cut them
out. Use watercolor pencil to cover the
raw edges. Glue in place, evenly, over
the matching ones on the building.

Glue the FASHION sign onto a double thickness of a scrap
of the same paper. When glue has set cut
out and glue evenly over the sign on the building.

Score across the canopies/awnings just above the
scallops. Cut out and fold the scallop
edges down. Glue the back edges to the
top edges of the three display windows at a very slight downward angle (so the
rain will roll off, lol).

Cut out the three door steps & glue them stacked
together. Glue the straight edge to the
building, just under the door. You may
choose to stagger the steps by cutting two back a bit so the step is not too
high.

I like to use an acid free, blue glue stick for adhering
paper on paper, especially with tiny pieces.
It is more forgiving/moveable than craft glue. And the disappearing color lets me know that
I have the glue where I want it. I use
Crafter’s Pick The Ultimate for everything else here, including the
canopies. And again, I can’t recommend
these high enough, Dr. Slick Razor Scissorshttp://www.amazon.com/Dr-Slick-Razor-ScissorsI really love them, especially for cutting tiny bits and
pieces.

Have fun, and hurry
because it is only a “ONE DAY SALE”!

On the pattern file below you can click on Zoom In to see the whole file before you print or save it. Don't forget to use your best printer settings before printing.

Monday, April 28, 2014

VILLAGE
BARBER SHOP

The Barber Shop is the 2nd structure in a series of tiny
printie, cut & glue, paper buildings. It can be used as stand-alone piece,
showcased under a dome and such, or it would work for toys in a dollhousetoy
store or child’s room, etc. You may
decide to transform it into a glitter building as was done for the Church in my
previous post here.

As seen, the shop has been glued to a matboard base and accessorized
with N scale figures…a man sitting on a bench, a man arriving for his haircut,
a dog and a garbage can. N scale is a
tad bit large for the building but I am pleased with the way it looks.

Print building and accessories patterns onto Matte Presentation Paper
using best printer settings. Printing
out the pdf file found at the end of this entry should give you a perfect
printie, size, color, etc.)

When ink has set, cut out building; score on side/base lines and on all
tabs. Fold side tabs in at right
angles. Glue front and back to side
tabs. When glue has set, fold top tabs
in at right angles.

Cut out roof; score across roof on both fold lines. Glue the white sides of the roof together
smoothly. Use a gray water color pencil
to color the raw edges. Glue roof evenly
to top tabs of building with folded edge to front.

Glue the uncut door and windows to a scrap of the same paper. When glue has set, cut out the pieces and
glue them evenly over corresponding ones on the building to add dimension.

Glue the uncut Barber Shop sign to double thickness of scraps of the
same paper. When glue has set, cut out
and glue pieces over matching images on building.

Roughly cut out the door step and glue it over a double thickness of
scraps of the same paper. Cut out; color the edges with a gray water color
pencil (or you may choose to use the white side of the paper). Glue the flat edge to the building, centered
under the door.

Cut out the barber pole. Lay it
face down, on a giving surface such, as sheet fun foam, or even the palm of
your hand. Roll over it with a round
toothpick until it starts to curve inwards.
Use your fingertips to roll it tightly back and forth until the roll has
about a 1/16” diameter. If necessary,
glue the seam to hold. Glue the pole to
the front of the building, centered side to side, between the front window and
the side of the building, and in line with the window, its seam to back. Glue a
tiny pearl seed bead.to the top and the bottom of the pole.

If you wish to showcase your barber shop in a tiny diorama or turn it
into a glitter building, use the instruction given in the previous post here,
The Church, as a guideline.

Saturday, April 19, 2014

THE VILLAGECHURCH

This little paper structure
that I have created for you was originally intended to be a stand-alone project
for a bit of Easter whimsy, in the Glitter House genre. And it turned out as planned…a fun little
something to sit on a miniature mantel or center a holiday table, or be placed
in a shop window & so on. But
something happened along the way, as often happens while creating… I found I
also really liked the looks of the unadorned church.

So much so that I became intrigued (or
carried away) with thoughts of other buildings until soon I had a whole “Little
Village” sitting before me, with even more in mind. Each of no particular scale or style, just
fun figments of my imagination.

Since I have come to realize from many of you
that creating printies directly from Blogs does not give one the high res,
desired for the clarity of detail of the originals, I am at kind of a
crossroad as to a solution.I spend much
time on details and it troubles me that you are not getting what I give
you.Suggestions have been made that
that I open an Etsy store to offer there, for sale, hard copies of my
printies.So while you work with The
Church (it is the least detailed piece of The Village buildings), I will decide
what I want to do to make sure that you can have the best of what I do to
create with.Do let me know what you
think.

Joann

PSGo to the end of this post...I have a headache,lol, but I was able to add a pdf filefor the church pattern that will enable you to printit to the correct size, color, and detail of theoriginal. You can print it directly from the blog orsave it to your computer. Do make any necessaryadjustments to your printer, re best settings & papertype. Do let me know how this works for you...as great as it worked for me I hope. Now I have to go lie down for awhile, hahaha.

Print the building on to the
white side of matte presentation paper using best printer settings. Use the 1” sq. Guide to Scale key given to
make sure you are printing at the correct size….of course you may choose to
print it to other sizes as desired or needed for your purposes.

Carefully cut out the
building; score on building sides and side and bottom tab lines. Fold the sides, side tab and bottom tabs of
building in at right angles. Glue sides & bottom together on tabs to form
the building. You may choose to use either glue applying carefully with a small
brush. Fold in top tabs at right angles
to sides.

Before cutting out the roof
piece, score across its center as marked.
Cut out and fold on score line.
Using a matching brown watercolor pencil, color the roof edges, and an
approx. 1/8” wide border on the underside and, if needed, the peak of the roof
on the score line. Apply glue to the top
tabs of the church and to the underside of the roof where it will touch the
church. Adhere the roof evenly over the
top of the building.

Working on the steeple,
score on sides and tabs & cut out.Fold side tab in, to right angle and glue side over tab. Glue steeple to
church roof, centered front to back.Fold the steeple roof tabs in at right angles.Score & fold the steeple roof across the
center. Use the brown watercolor pencil to color it as for church roof.Glue the roof evenly over the steeple.

To add dimension to the
church, cut out the door and windows & steps altogether in one piece of the
paper, not individually, and glue smoothly, face up, to a scrap of the same
paper. When glue has set, cut out individual windows and door. Color the edges of all gut the step with a
grey watercolor pencil and the step with brown.
Glue prepared door and windows over corresponding ones on the building. Using craft glue, adhere the straight edge of
the step just under the door.

If you would like a cross atop your steeple, cut a
long 1/32” wide strip from the scrap paper.
Cut it in half and glue one piece evenly across the other piece. Before cutting out the cross cover the area
of the paper that will be the cross with a couple of coats of clear nail enamel…this will
strengthen the paper.When the enamel is
dry carefully trim the top and sides of the cross to approx. size of diagram on
project sheet…making bottom cut the last.Now don’t breathe to hard or you may lose the cross.Pick the cross up by the top with pointed
tweezers, dip the very bottom into strong craft glue and place on peak of
steeple roof, centered front to back. Double check to see that all is even.
Once the glue has set you may want to add another coat or two of nail polish to
further strength the paper.

Now you have the VillageChurch.
If you want to transform it into a Glitter Structure as seen:

YOU WILL NEED:

Extra fine glitter
http://www.amazon.com/American-Crafts-24-Pack-Extra-Glitter/ (you can use any color/s you want, just make
sure it is extra fine…I used apricot on the roofs and sunflower on the
building) + a glue stick and a very small flat bristled paint brush to apply it
+ A scrap of matboard (1-3/8”w x 1-1/8”
deep used here but may be any
size) + grass green acrylic paint + fine model railroad turf such as

Use a small, flat-bristled paint brush to apply a thin
layer of glue stick, to the buildings first, and then the roofs. Work on small areas at a time, applying glue
and then sprinkling the glitter over it, tapping off excess…you will want a
light coating of glitter for this tiny piece as
you are not replicating snow. Do not glitter the door and windows. Work over a clean sheet of lightweight
paper and before you change glitter colors, lift the paper by two sides so you
can pour the excess glitter back into its container.

BASE:

Cut matboard base to size
& paint the top and sides a grass green. Glue the church in place on the
base, back sides flush and centered side to side. Draw a path/walkway from church step to front
of base, shaped as desired or following diagram. Cut the path shape from a
piece of white or off white scrap of the pattern paper (I actually cut mine
from a Ralph Lauren paint sample, River Rock-Coastal Sand (love these paints)
and pulled off & used the top ply of the paper).

For the lawn, sift the green
landscaping turf to get the finest of particles. Paint the grass area of the base with craft
glue and sprinkle on the sifted turf.
Press it a bit for good adhesion and shake or sweep of excess.

For bushes paint a green chenille stem with a darker
green than the lawn. When dry cut 10,
approx. ¼” snippets; touch up the exposed wire tip with paint.

Using pointed tweezers glue
the bushes to the lawn, three on each side of the church and two each along the
edge of the pathway. Using a toothpick
apply little dabs of craft glue here and there on the bushes and immediately
after each dab pick up a group of no-hole beads with the tip of a slightly
moistened toothpick (yeah, I used my tongue)
and press them onto the glue.

If you wish to add Mr. &
Ms. Bunny to the scene carefully cut out the images given (I used a magnifying
lamp for this job…these eyes are getting old).
Color the edges & back with a grey watercolor pencil and glue in
place on path.

The base edges are finished
with fine cording/Bunka in a light yellow glued in place, starting and stopping
at center back.

May the Easter Bunny leave you a basket filled with love and wishes come true,

Saturday, May 11, 2013

My idea of
the prefect Mother’s Day gifts?…a delicious box of chocolates and a good book. And lo and behold, here they are, in
miniature of course. Quick and easy little
projects that can be used as accessories in many miniature vignettes.

===================

A BOOK FOR MOTHER

Make a copy
of the printie on bright white paper using best printer settings & a
landscape setting.

Click on image; copy and paste to your computer.

Set to print at 8-1/16" w x 3.54"h

Cut out
cover.

Clip on 4
lines as shown.

Score on all
lines. Crease & fold all borders
inward, using a quality glue stick to hold.
Fold front and back cover inward on spine lines.

Cut out pages
in one continuous piece Crease and fold
the pages accordion-style, following directions on printie.

Glue pages
together, back to back, in twos. Do not
include the smaller end pages. Press flat until glue has set, making sure that
any excess glue is not causing the pages to stick together where they should
not. You may insert small pieces of
waxed paper between pages to prevent any glue mistakes if desired.

Glue
assembled pages into the prepared cover by centering the back sides of the end
pages on the inside of the cover…do not glue anything to the spine. Press the book flat until the glue has set.

For a glossy
cover you may choose to coat it with a couple of coats of clear nail enamel or water
based acrylic gloss or it may be covered with clear packaging tape. Do test
your computer ink for compatibility with any finish you use.

You may
choose to add ties to close your book.
If so, use fine sewing thread and work with longer threads that you will
need. Cut two lengths, one for the front
and one for the back. Glue them in place
on the front & back cover before the pages are glued in place. Glue them centered top to bottom and an end
set in approx. ¼” from the front edge of the cover. After the book itself is
complete, tie the strings into a tiny bow.
Decide how much string you want to extend beyond the bow and tie a
knot. Cut of excess string approx. 1/8”
beyond the knot and fray out the cut ends, tassel like.

======================

BOX OF “DELICIOUS”
CHOCOLATES

Make a colored copy of the 4 chocolate box parts
and the

chocolates onto matte presentation paper using printer’s

best
settings. Cut pieces out using a craft
knife and straight

edge, eliminating the black edge lines. Score on fold lines

using a pointed stylus &
straight edge.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO ENLARGE

SAVE TO YOUR COMPUTER

----------------

Glue tabs of box
& lid pieces to inside. Using a
quality Glue Stick, adhere the top piece, centered, over top of lid and the bottom
piece under the box. Using glue stick will give you more time for correct
placement.

Using a
toothpick, coat each chocolate on the chocolate insert piece with Diamond
Glaze. This will give the candies depth
and dimension. If you feel that they are too glossy, add a light coat of clear
semi-gloss acrylic over the top of the glaze. In fact if you don’t have Diamond Glaze you
can use acrylic glaze or even tacky glue in its place, Allow
to dry. Insert chocolate piece into box bottom.

You can also
choose to decorate the box top with the tiniest of nail art to add dimension
& interest.

--------------------------------------------------

To all of you Mother's out there, do have a wonderful, loving day. To all others, give your mother, grandmother, sister or any other significant female in your life an extra hug, just because.

Joann

PS

I have not forgotten the shadowbox project, real life has just been so busy and sunny that I have ignored it for a bit. But stay tuned for the end of section 5 and filling section 6.

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Iris
has always been a favorite garden flower.
There are many varieties and different colors…shades of purples, blues,
and white and yellow. Here I have made a
simple lavender, bearded variety but do explore others.

Cut
wire to needed lengths and dip the tip of one end into golden yellow acrylic
paint. Poke into a scrap of Styrofoam to
dry.

These
flowers have three inner erect petals that surround the stamen and three outer
sepals between the petals that curve back.
To create the petals and sepals you may choose to fold/crease a piece of
your chosen paper, measure and mark a line 1/16” away from the fold/crease and
then use a ¼” round paper as shown.

Or
you may use the paper punch as shown or something similar to create the
petals/sepals.

If
you are adding beards to your sepals, use a small pointed paintbrush to feather
yellow paint out from the pointed end of the three sepals…I suggest you look
closely at actual photos. As seen, I
just paint an illusion but if you are so inclined you may be more precise with
the beard or markings.

Lay
the petals and sepals on the fun foam, bearded side of sepals face down. Using a stylus or similar tool, “draw” lines
down each edge and then the center of each petal and sepal, causing them to
curve and curl.

Using
fine pointed tweezers pick up a prepared petal by the rounded end, dip the very
tip of the pointed end in glue & place on a prepared stem, just below the
painted stamen. Add two more petals in
the same manner, evenly spacing them from each other and in an almost upright position.

Pick
up sepals in the same manner, add glue to tip and place them on the stem just
under the petals & in-between the petals, so they are curving out and
slightly down.

For
the ovaries cut 1/16” wide by ½” long pieces of floral tape and gently stretch
them out. Wrap one around a stem just up
from the bottom. Use fingertip to shape
it into a slightly elongated ball. Push
it up the stem until it snugs up to the underside of the flower.

Use
leaf green acrylic paint to blend the ovary and stem and to slightly feather up
and out on the bottom of the flower.

Iris
leaves are cut and prepared as was described previously for the daffodil and
narcissus leaves but with a more pointed, sword-like shape. Leaves may be attached to a flower stem or
surround the potted flowers.

Unopened
buds are made by wrapping ¼” wide by ½” long pieces of green floral tape around
the stop of a stem, stretching the tape as you wrap. Use finger tips to form the top into a
point. Add an ovary as described above
right under the bud and then use green paint to meld bud, ovary, and stem
together.

Partially
open buds are created by adding glue to the face of a petal and wrapping it
around the stop of a stem. Add 3 or more
petals in this manner, depending on how open you want the bud, and then pinch
and roll the top to a point. Add an ovary. Use leaf green paint to meld
everything together, letting the paint go up in points on the petals.

As with the
Daffodil and Narcissus, Iris may be potted, as is seen here, planted in a
landscape, or used in flower arrangements by themselves or with other spring
flowers. Surround stems by lots of leaves,
which should be of a height just short of the blossom or shorter. I used a clay pot filled with unbaked, scrap
Fimo. The Fimo was coated with a layer
of glue and fine dust from sphagnum moss (bottom of package?) was pressed
on. Holes were poked in the “soil” to
take the flower stems and after they were in place buds and partially open blossoms
were added. Leaves filled in space in
and around.

--------------------

Here
are some real-life images & illustrations to help inspire you to add miniature
Iris to your collection.

ARRANGEMENT BY CARL STARKERS

1953

-------------------------------------

I will be
back soon with the Daffodils, Narcissus and Iris in place in the 5th
section of The Easter Shadowbox. BTW you may
be interested in making some other spring blooms too…
Calla Lilies, Pussy Willow, Forsythia…if
so they are to be found in my Easter Peddler’s Cart, Basket & Bunnies

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A FAVORITE BOOK

PHOTOGRAPHS OF NEW YORK INTERIORS AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY – JOSEPH BYRON – Published June, 1976 Dover Publications Amazon describes this book as “containing 131 rare photographs capturing some of the most remarkable Victorian-Edwardian interiors ever created. Extraordinary furnished drawing rooms, dining rooms, studies, libraries, music rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms in the homes of well-to-do recall turn-of the century charm.” True, but there are also photos of work places, stores, shops, bars, restaurants, soda fountain, and even two of the interior of a luxury liner. Each photo has detailed notes and those along with the book’s introduction really give you an insight into a way of life at that time. The photos are so clear and full of detail that you will spend hours looking at them, just for fun and insight or as inspirations for miniature projects. Did I say I love this book? Amazon has new and used copies for very good prices…. It is a great addition to your library. ......Joann

About Me

The primary idea behind this blog is to share my miniature projects for you to re-create.
I have written and had published some 300+ DIY articles and I like to think that my work has influenced and been an inspiration to many.
I generally use inexpensive or found items and materials that should be available in just about any local or online, and often just in your “junk-drawer”. Paper, in all of its forms, is my forte but you may choose, in many instances, to substitute other materials, making any necessary adjustments.
I use simple, but quality hand tools and always keep the blades of my scissors and knives sharp. Generally the only powered tools I use are Dremel Motto Tools and a variable speed drill…oh, and a heat gun (I can’t wait for the paint to dry).
I hope that my projects will inspire you to create miniatures of your own designs. My work is for your enjoyment only, please do not use for personal profit.
If you have a question, suggestion or special request please feel free to contact me.
joanndiydollhouseminiatures@gmail.com