I have an aurora cree c6 flashlight. I've tried to find data sheets on this driver but haven't been able to find any so I'm just going off a few pictures. OK, so if I use this NJG-18 driver how do I wire it up correctly? Does the sping on the NJG-18 go to the positive side of the battery? Can my host be negative? Do I join the case and negative pins? I'm pretty much trying to draw a diagram on how to wire it.

Yes you can bridg the case pin and the negative on the NJG but remember to connect the bridged negative and case pin with the driver negative output. This will also lock the unit into always on full power mode all the time. So no modes. And the answer on the spring is yes as well. The spring can be used to make direct contact with the positive of the battery.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhwollen

P.S. I am still waiting on your tests...

Just got home from my Easter outings. I will put one together here in a little and give you some readings @ different voltages of the minimum mA.

Alright here is the minimum mA for the NJG based on different voltages with the test I just did.
I am getting 500mA @ 4.2V but I am getting 265mA @ 3.7V So a Lipo will get you to the 460mA you are looking to do with this driver. It also bottoms out with 225mA @ 1.6V.

Alright here is the minimum mA for the NJG based on different voltages with the test I just did.
I am getting 500mA @ 4.2V but I am getting 265mA @ 3.7V So a Lipo will get you to the 460mA you are looking to do with this driver. It also bottoms out with 225mA @ 1.6V.

Well I am sure there are cheaper ones but I would of course suggest the WF-188 since it can charge just about any battery you will every use in this hobby but I am sure you can get a charger for half the price or more that will charge size specific Lipo's.

I see you bought up the Saiks. I missed out on those.

Anyway if they are 3.2V Lipo's they should work just fine and have a fully charged voltage about 3.6V.

It is best to set them with a bench supply set to 4.2V since their current does change as the voltage drops. If you don't have a bench supply make sure your battery if fully charged when setting the current. To set them up you will need to solder the positive and negative leads that go to the diode. There is a bridge point from C1 to the positive hole right next to it. Also If you are wiring it for full power all the time I use the ring around the driver to connect the negative that I will run to the bridged case pin and negative pin on the diode since the negative output on the driver can be tricky to solder.

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