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Every week we get Down & Dirty, in which Nozlee Samadzadeh breaks down our favorite seasonal fruits, vegetables, and more by the numbers.

Celeriac -- also just called celery root -- has got to be the craggiest, least lovable plant there is. Covered in hairy roots and clods of dirt, it's like the hobbit of the vegetable world. Give it some time, though, and it'll pay you back: celeriac has all the mellow, vegetal flavor of celery and none of the stringy wateriness.

1. A Faux Root: Celery "root" is a misnomer -- it's actually a bulbous hypocotyl, which is the name for the area of a plant between its stem and roots. (In celeriac's case, the true roots are those feathery hairs all over its surface.) All varieties of celery will produce these bulbs when left to grow for long enough, but the celeriac you find at market is particularly chosen for its less prominent stalks and well-developed hypocotyl.

2. The Stalks: Because the plants are grown for what's underneath the soil, not above it, the stalks of celeriac bulbs are stringy and tough. Instead, skip ants on a log and use them to flavor stock, where they make a perfect stand-in for conventional celery in a mirepoix.

3. Celeriac, Unmasked: When it comes to celeriac, you have to be ruthless -- using a sharp knife and then a vegetable peeler, hack away at that tough skin until its pretty white flesh emerges. (You can even watch A&M demonstrate how on video!)

Like many of its root vegetable brethren, celeriac is wonderful both roasted and pureed. And of course there's the classic French céleri rémoulade, in which thinly sliced raw celeriac is tossed in best-quality aioli. What's your favorite way to cook with celeriac?

I'm Nozlee Samadzadeh, a writer, editor, farmer, information architect, and passionate home cook. Growing up Iranian in Oklahoma, working on a small-scale organic farm, and cooking on a budget all influence the way I cook -- herbed rice dishes, chicken fried steak, heirloom tomato salad, and simple poached eggs all make appearances on my bright blue kitchen table. I love to eat kimchi (homemade!) straight from the jar and I eat cake for breakfast.

Comments (10)

I like to use both the bulb and the greens in place of celery in winter braises, soups, stews and suchlike. I also like to roast the bulb with root veggies. I think it's especially nice with rutabaga or fennel bulbs.

I boil the whole root unpeeled for about 15-20 min, then peel it, and use the mandoline to cut it into thin strips. Make a dressing with sugar, vinegar and a little oil and it turns into a lovely pickled sort of salad that pairs well with stews. Also a nice addition to an assorted salad plate - pair that one with carrot salad, an oil & vinegar based potato salad and perhaps some pickled beets on a bed of leafy greens. Delicious and looks great.

Super easy to grow in the fall garden--too hot for a summer harvest at least it is here in NE Okla.I start them in the GH and move small plants to the garden- I like to serve celery root with Yukons as a puree' with a real savory meat dish like Roast thighs with olives and dired toms---beef short ribs go well also.