When the going gets tough, eat potatoes

Tuscan chef Roberto “Jerry” Zanieri created this Symphony of Potatoes, a “carpet” of potatoes topped by four different takes on the versatile spud.

Diane De Filipi

Nov 27, 2017

During the last two months, have you found yourself drawn to nibbling cookie dough, craving Cheetos or sitting with a spoon and a jar of Skippy? Me, too.

When things get tough, we often, without realizing it, reach for certain foods. Most times, we don’t even realize we’re doing it until we’ve done it. Then, at a certain point, we give up a heavy sigh and settle back more physically relaxed.

Is it the aroma? The crunch, the creaminess? Yes, all of the above.

Comfort foods are called such because that’s what they provide. Foods that offer feelings of well being and solace. Foods that we associate with childhood and the home cooking of someone who nurtured us. When times are hard, we often long for things that soothe us. Simple things.

Why these foods most often fall into the categories of high calories, high sugar or complex carbs is simply body chemistry. The message food chemistry sends to our brain.

After nine days of evacuation during the October wildfires, I was heading home and needed to stop at a market for replenishment of basic supplies. I had no shopping list, just the knowledge that whatever remained in my fridge would need to be discarded after nine days without electricity.

I grab a cart and stroll the aisles. Condiments, check. Milk, check. So it went. ‘Keep it simple’ was my only clear thought.

Arriving home, the first task was cleaning out the fridge. Then cleaning the fridge itself, which had not been this sparkly since the day it was delivered.

As I began to unload grocery bags, I found myself shaking my head and chuckling out loud.

Shopping while on autopilot and coming from a place of emotional highs and lows I had not even realized what I’d done as I cruised through the market.

Sitting on my counter were two russet potatoes for baking, a bag of frozen crinkle fries, a bag of Lays potato chips and from the fresh deli there were containers of both garlic mashies and potato salad. I hadn’t shopped with intent, but here were my comfort foods. I’ve never met a potato I didn’t like.

In honor of the versatile potato I would like to share a very special recipe with you. This was a signature dish of Chef Roberto “Jerry” Zanieri, the original Chef for “Let’s Go Cook Italian” in Tuscany. Jerry created a “Symphony of Potatoes.”

Potatoes pair wonderfully with so many accompanying ingredients that they lend themselves to every occasion.

At first glance, you may feel that there are way too many steps to this recipe. I ask you to keep in mind that three of the ingredients, the polenta, pesto and mousse, can be made a day ahead of time, leaving the serving day steps to mostly peeling, chopping, boiling and assembling.

I save this dish for special occasions where I might want to show off a bit to my dinner guests.

The presentation gets people’s attention and the flavor profiles are unique.

While potatoes are traditionally a side dish, this dish is a course unto itself. I like to present it as a starter. You’ll create a carpet of potatoes that will be topped with four individually created different potato bites.

A must for this dish is a distinct extra virgin olive oil. Grove 45 or Regina Grove, both local artisan oils, are my go to’s.

Symphony of Potatoes

Serves 5.

The Carpet

5 small white potatoes

Cut each potato into small match sticks. Drop match sticks into boiling unsalted water for 8 to 10 minutes, until just tender. Remove sticks with slotted spoon and set aside.

The Chips

3 medium white potatoes Extra virgin olive oil Sea salt and pepper to taste Peel and thinly slice potatoes. Lay on a shallow baking sheet which has been lined with parchment. Salt and pepper to taste. Lightly drizzle with olive oil. Bake at 450 degrees for 6 to 8 minutes, until just golden on the edges. The chips will not be crunchy at this stage. They will cook further as the Symphony is completed. Set chips aside.

The following three recipe components can be prepared in advance — up to 24 hours prior to completion of your Symphony.

The Polenta Make polenta according to package directions for 4 servings. Regular or quick cooking may be used. You will know polenta is the correct thickness when a wooden spoon stands up alone in the center of the pot of polenta.

When thickened, pour polenta into large baking dish and allow to set and cool. Polenta can be kept in refrigerator until day of Symphony service.

When ready to complete you will cut small rounds of polenta using circular form and grill on your stove top in an iron skillet using no oil. Flip when just browned on one side.

Polenta rounds will be topped with mousse and baked at 400 degrees for 6 to 8 minutes on day of service.

Peel potatoes and boil in unsalted water until ready to mash. Drain liquid.

Add olive oil to potatoes and whip with fork until creamy, but still thick enough to peak.

When ready to serve, use round cutter form which you will place atop the potato carpet. Fill the form to the top with the whipped potato mixture. Allow to set 1 minute. Slide form off of potatoes and top potato with a dollop of pesto.