Bromine Spa Sanitizers

Using spa bromine sanitizers, instead of chlorine.

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How to
use Bromine, for spa, swim spa or hot tub sanitizing? Bromine is much more popular in spas and hot
tubs, than in swimming pools. For use in spas
and hot tubs, it is available in two forms:
slow-dissolving tablets or a quick-dissolving
2-part system. Bromine, in functioning as a
sanitizer, produces less odor than chlorine and
tends to be less irritating. The use of bromine
is popular as a backup sanitizer or oxidizer for
Ozonation, Mineral Sanitizers or Ionization. If
problems arise, refer to the
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Hi Alan, I just started to use brominating
tablets in a floating dispenser in my hot tub
and when the bromine level was low, I added some
brominating concentrate to quickly bring it up
to standards. But, it seems to have affected the
water. I also notice that brominating tablets
from different companies seem to have different
ingredients, as well as the concentration. Can
you set me straight on this? Thanks.

Steve C., 3/9/2014

There are
slight chemical differences, in the chemical
composition of bromine tablets. Primarily, the
differences came about, in order to make them
easier to tabletize. It does not affect performance.
All of the bromine becomes active. The chlorine
reacts with the spent forms of bromine (bromides)
and as it is used up, regenerates new bromine. Even
though, it shows chlorine and bromine, it all ends
up as bromine. Bromine tablets are acidic and will
lower the pH and Total Alkalinity. Care should be
taken to make sure that the water does not go
acidic, as that will eventually lead to damage to
the heater. There are other ways to sanitize,
that could prove more convenient. A
salt chlorine
generator will generate chlorine, which will
react with the bromides to form bromine. These
devices will help you maintain a proper bromine or
chlorine level, simply by adjusting the chlorine
production. All it takes is a small amount of salt
and access to a 100 volt GFI protected outlet. There
is no installation required, for any of the four
Plug-n-Play models. The addition of a
Nano-Stick Clarifier
will help destroy ultra-fine particles and help you
produce and maintain better water quality. I hope
that this information will prove helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster,
3/9/2014

► Getting The
Bromine Right?

Hi Alan. I sure could use your help to
understand how to properly use Bromine in my Hot Tub. I have
been using the Bromine Pucks in a floater tube but have a
very difficult time to keep the Bromine levels between the
3-5 ppm range even with the floater tube chamber opened up
all the way and a full stack of pucks in the tube. Although
in theory this seems to be an easy way to "feed" sanitizer
to the tub, it does not appear to be very effective.
Typically when I test the Bromine levels they are below
1ppm, so I have been just crushing up 2-3 pucks to a powder
which seems to help for a very short duration and then is
back down soon afterwards. I recently read in your help
section that this practice is not advisable in any event. As
I read more about it, there seems to be more variation to
the Bromine method than simply pucks in a float tube. There
seems to be a number of different methods such as:

1. Bromine Pucks (in float tube) with non-chlor shock
occasionally2. creating a Bromide "Bank" which I completely do not
understand3. a two-part system of liquid and an "activator" (not sure
if this includes the use of pucks or not)4. have also read about products like "Refresh" and "Peak
Boost" to bump up the bromine levels, but I understand there
is concern about cyanuric acid build up with these products.

I am confused if these are all different systems, or all
parts of the whole system. Can you please help me to
understand this whole Bromine thing and simplify all this a
bit.

Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

Marty, 10/18/2013

Feeders always need tweaking, as the bromine level depends
on usage and how much bromine is being dissolved. That is
where testing comes in. A "bank" refers to a concentration
of bromide ions. When you use bromine tablets, you create a
reservoir of bromide ions. If the bromine level is low, just
add a small amount of sodium dichlor or potassium
monopersulfate (non-chlorine shock). This addition will
convert the bromides back to bromine. You need not be
concerned, about a cyanuric acid level buildup, as the
bromine is unaffected. In addition, spas are generally
emptied, every 3 months. to avoid such buildups of chemicals
and byproducts. Adding a SPA FROG Mineral Sanitizer, can
reduce the need to maintain a 3-5 PPM bromine level. You
will be able to maintain sanitation with 1/2 that level.
Adding an ozone generator will reduce the amount of bromine
required, to maintain any given level. It really works well
with bromine and a SPA FROG to reduce the overall chemical
usage and provide better results. I hope this information is
helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/18/2013

► Using
Chlorine To Generate Bromine?

I hope this is not a redundant
question but I could not find a specific answer on your
site. After pouring over your site for the last few weeks, I
made the decision to switch from chlorine to bromine in our
spa. I purchased a product billed as brominating granules:
one-step sanitizer & oxidizer. When I got home, I noted that
this product has 82.5% Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione and
only 14.7% Sodium Bromide. I think I understand from the
detailed information on your site that the bromide will be
converted to bromine in the presence of some chloride ion,
but am I really moving away from chlorine sanitizer with
this product? Could you also help me understand 1) how
exactly this product works, 2) how I should use this product
after a new tub refill and maintenance, and 3) how I should
combine the use of these brominating granules with bromine
pellets in a dispenser? For example, would I only need to
use these brominating granules, only pellets, or some
combination of both. If it matters for your answer or our
choice of sanitizing, our house came with a very old spa
dropped into an above ground deck (not well insulated). We
are only weekend spa folks and tend to heat the spa up on
Friday afternoons and turn off the heat Sunday night but we
do have the pump circulating water 24/7. Thank you so much
for your forum. It is by far one of the most detailed and
informative that I could find on the web!

Tim, NC, 12/31/2012

Last letter for 2010. Happy New Year!!! With bromine,
hypobromous acid is the active sanitizer and with chlorine,
it is hypochlorous acid. If you start off with bromine, you
build up an excess of bromide ions. If you add chlorine, it
converts the bromides to hypobromous acid. If you start with
chlorine and add bromine, the bromine remains as hypobromous
acid, until it is depleted. Then it reverts to bromides.
Adding chlorine will convert the bromides to hypobromous
acid. In other words, if there is excess bromides ions, it
all ends up as bromine, no matter what you add. The chlorine
is reduced to chlorine ions and the bromide ions are
oxidized to hypobromous acid. The product you are using is
merely combing sodium dichlor and sodium bromide. Once
added, to the water, it will end up as bromine. You can add
a monthly dose of a sodium bromide product and then follow
with sodium dichlor or even non-chlorine shock. In the
latter case, it is sold as a 2-part bromine system. It
really is bromine and the odor, or its greatly reduced lack
thereof, is an indication of why most people prefer bromine,
for spa use. You have the option of using bromine, in
tablet form, in a floater or feeder. You can use a combination of products, with
the intention of maintaining a 3-5 PPM level of bromine. If
you add the Spa Frog, which is EPA registered as a Spa
Sanitizer and Disinfectant, you should be able to get by
with a bromine level of 1-3 PPM. I hope that this helps
explain how chlorine ends up as bromine.

Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 12/31/2012

► Bromine:
the 2-part version?

I can understand how the bromine
tablets work. That's fairly straightforward. The 2-part
bromine seems a bit confusing. I'm using it, but I don't
really understand how it produces bromine. Can you help?

James H., Plainview, NY, 4/12/2007

There are 2 products that comprise the bromine 2-part
system: a liquid product containing a concentrated solution
of sodium bromide and a granular product containing the
oxidizing agent potassium peroxymonosulfate (also called
potassium monopersulfate or monopersulfate compound). The
liquid product is typically added only once a month. Adding
more will not produce more bromine. The granular product is
usually added on a daily basis or, as needed, and it is this
product that results in bromine being produced. The
potassium peroxymonosulfate reacts with the sodium bromide,
already in the water, and forms bromine. Add more potassium
peroxymonosulfate and more bromine is produced. After, the
bromine has been consumed in the sanitizing process, it
reverts back to sodium bromide, allowing for the cycle to be
repeated. The sodium bromide product is added monthly to
assure that there is always an excess amount of bromide,
available to be converted into bromine. The water can be
tested for Bromine and adjusted accordingly. The advantage
of this method is that it is quick dissolving and allows for
flexible control of the bromine level. The 2-part system
produces no organic byproducts and contributes only
harmless, innocuous salts to the water, after the sanitizing
is completed. Hence, never a build-up problem. These
products are pH buffered, so as not to have a major impact
on the pH. The only downside is that you have to add it more
or less on a daily basis. Adding a Nano-Stick
Clarifier, which requires no installation, will help
destroy ultra-fine particles and help you produce and
maintain better water quality. I hope that I succeeded in
explaining the product. Enjoy the spa.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/13/2007

► Start Up
Problems?

We purchased a spa a month or so ago.
The chemicals that came with the spa were not bromine or
chlorine, so two weeks ago I drained the spa and started
using bromine tablets and a pH balancer that they suggested
I add. .However, every time I test the water the levels for
Bromine are at 0 - very low, even though there are tablets
in a floater. Also, the pH is around 6.8 and the alkalinity
is very high - 240. What chemicals should I add to get the
water in balance? I have read of lot of your website, and it
appears as though I need to get a bromine shock treatment,
but I want to confirm before I do it. Thank you for your
help.

Angela P., Orlando, Florida, 10/30/2008

Bromine tablets are slow dissolving and, as such, do not
play catch up very well. You need to add shock treatment -
either dichlor or a non-chlorine shock - to boost the
bromine level into the 3-5 PPM range. Thereafter, keep the
bromine floater full and add more shock after periods of
heavy usage, at first signs of loss of water quality or
whenever the bromine level falls below optimum. Bromine
tablets are acidic and will lower the pH, as they dissolve.
Add pH increaser, as necessary, to raise the pH into the
7.2-7.8 range. This is important for bather comfort and to
help protect the heater from corrosion. While your TA is
high, it may not be necessary to lower it, so long as the
water is clear and there are no signs of scaling. The
addition of an ozonator is something
worthy of consideration, as it will make maintenance easier and produce
higher quality water. I hope that I have been helpful. Enjoy
the spa and have a happy Halloween.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/31/2008

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Hi! I read your article, "Bromine for
Spas", but I could not find any information as to how to
actually add the tablet to the water using a floater. I was
curious as to if you could give me a description of how to
do this. For example do I leave all tablets in the bottle
and put it in the tub? Or do I put one tablet in the
floater? Thanks!

Kait T., 1/8/2011

A simple enough question that seems not to have been asked
before! A floating feeder for a spa is relatively small
(compared to pool feeders) and probably is able to contain
6-12 tablets, depending upon the actual design. Start by
filling the feeder and trying to keep the feeder relatively
full, by adding more tablets 1-2 times weekly. Do not allow
the tablets to completely dissolve before adding more!
Keeping the feeder reasonably full will help allow for a
more consistent dissolution of the product. Use the
adjustments for opening and closing the water vents, to help
maintain the bromine level at 3-5 PPM. Bromine tablets are
slow dissolving and do not play catch up very well. You
should add some shock, after periods of heavy bather usage
or whenever the bromine level has bottomed out. Consider adding an
ozone generator, as it will reduce the amount of
bromine necessary and allow you to maintain a low level of
1-3 PPM. I hope that I have been helpful and enjoy the spa.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/9/2011

► Not Keeping
Up?

I have
a question for you and I hope you can help me. I was using
the part 2 Bromine system (Part A and B) I had no problem
but I changed to the Bromine tablets and automatic dispenser
(floating device) because I found that the 2 part requires
more care and If you are not home for a few days than the
chloride (bromine) level will be too low. Now since I have
the tablets I can not get the level to be appropriate, I am
using the sticks and there is no Bromine at all! I open the
dispenser to the maximum and still no Chlorine on my
results? any ideas? Thanks.

Reinaldo B., 7/3/2010

The bromine tablets are very slow dissolving. They do not
play "catch up" very well. Depending upon how your spa is
being used, you may have to supplement the bromine tablets
with some addition of the oxidizer portion of the 2-part
system. This will give an instant boost to the bromine level
and make it easier for the tablets to keep pace with the
demand. Adding some of the product after each use of the spa
is another way to help maintain a proper level. Have you
ever considered an ozonator? Combined with the bromine
floater, it should provide very good results with less
bother. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 7/3/2010

► Wanting To
Use Less Bromine?

I have been using bromine tablets in
my spa. The results, so far, have been good, but I would
like to use less bromine and fewer chemicals. Any
suggestions would be appreciated. Regards and thanks.

Barry M., Poughkeepsie, NY, 11/12/2005

The simplest thing to do would be to add a Mineral
Sanitizer. Because you are using bromine, you can't use just
any mineral sanitizer, as some cannot be used in spas that
contain bromine. The SPA FROG Mineral Sanitizer can be used in
spas, that use bromine or chlorine and it will not interfere
with the expected 6-month life of the cartridge. The presence of the mineral
sanitizer will allow you to maintain a lower bromine level
and because less bromine will be used, the overall water
chemistry will be easier to control. I hope that this
information proves helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 5/12/2005

► Bromine To
Chlorine?

Alan, we used bromine in our hot tub
but it irritated our skin, in order to switch to a chlorine,
do we need to empty our hot tub and start it from scratch
with chlorine, or can we just convert over? Thanks.

Lisa, 4/11/2008

You must completely drain the spa, removing as much water as
possible. Otherwise, the bromide salts, remaining in the spa
water will convert the chlorine to bromine. The fact
that you described the rash in the plural (we) leads me to
believe that the problem may not be the bromine. Bromine
tends to less irritating than chlorine. A rash could be the
result of too much bromine, too high or low a pH or
inadequate spa water sanitizing. If after converting to
chlorine, the problems cease: great! However, if problems
continue, I suggest that you consider the addition of an
ozonator and
reducing the level of chlorine or bromine. The use of a
mineral sanitizer or ionizer and an ozonator is a viable
option, that utilizes a very low level of chlorine or
bromine. I hope this information will solve the problem.
Good luck.

Sincerely, Alan Schuster, 4/11/2008

► Bromine And
Chlorine?

My husband and I have been given 2
pieces of advice and wish to find out which one we should
follow. At the present time in our Hot Tub we chlorinate and
then we test the level and add Bromine tablets to the
floater to maintain the chlorine level.. This was told to us
by one company. This past month we went to the place we
bought the hot tub to purchase needed chemicals and told
them what we needed and were told to NEVER use chlorine and
bromine together. We have not had any trouble before this
advice and were wondering which method of maintaining the
chlorine? I would appreciate your advice on this. Thank you.

Cheryl J., 3/15/2007There is nothing wrong with what you are doing. After
bromine has reacted with wastes, it forms bromide ions.
Adding chlorine converts the bromide ions back into bromine.
Read the label on the bromine tablets. It contains both
chemicals and works, as I outlined. What you are doing is
maintaining the spa on bromine and using chlorine to shock
and that is normal. You should be testing for bromine and
trying to maintain 3-5 PPM. If you want to be able to lower
the bromine level, add The Spa Frog Mineral Sanitizer. Make
sure that you are testing for Bromine. A product, such as
the LaMotte Insta-Test Strips, provides the right kind of
information and is ideal for this purpose. I hope that I
have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 3/15/2007

► Using
Bromides With A Salt Chlorine Generator?

We have a 400 gallon hot tub that we
sanitize by way of a salt water chlorinator. My question is
that if we were to add a product such as sodium bromide to
the hot tub, would it convert it to a bromine base versus a
chlorine base? Would the salt water generator still work and
would it then produce bromine instead of chlorine? I had
read somewhere, that if this was done, then you would have
to add enough bromide ions as to equal 50 ppm? Is this
correct? Any info you can provide on this would be
appreciated.

Bob From Canada, 12/18/2008If you have bromide ions present, the chlorine (hypochlorous
acid) will react with the bromides and convert it to bromine
(hypobromous acid). This will happen with a
salt chlorine
generator or any other method of adding chlorine. It will
end up as a bromine spa. However, not all manufacturers of
salt chlorine generators recommend that their product be
used, in this manner, as it could shorten the salt-cell
life. However, the reasoning behind this applies to pools or
spas that are constantly exposed to the Sun. Most spas to do
fall into this category. Good luck and I hope that I have
been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/18/2008

► Using
Chlorine and Bromine Together?

My husband uses bromine tablets in a
floating feeder and uses a chlorine shock treatment in our
small hot tub. Is it okay to mix these or should he be using
a non-chlorine shock? I ask because sometimes I go into the
hot tub and there's an odor that slightly hurts my lungs to
breathe and makes me cough. He says bromine and chlorine are
the same and it's fine, but I'd like your opinion. Also, how
often should you use shock? I think he does it once a week
even if the bromine level is fine. Thanks.

Nancy, 10/25/2007

There is nothing wrong with using bromine and chlorine
together in the same spa, but they are NOT the same
chemical. Bromine tablets actually contain both chlorine and
bromide. In the presence of bromide ions, which will come
from the bromine tablets, the chlorine will convert to
bromine. Adding some granular dichlor is an easy way to
boost the bromine level, after periods of heavy bather use
or due to low bromine levels. Bromine tablets are acidic and
will cause the pH to drop, unless soda ash is added. The low
pH is corrosive to equipment and very likely to lead to
irritating vapors. Check the pH! You should shock, after
periods of heavy bather use, whenever the bromine level
bottoms out, at first signs of a loss of water quality or
periodically to prevent the buildup of contaminants and
resistant microorganisms. The use of a
Spa Frog Mineral
Sanitizer can reduce the amount of bromine required and
provide more consistent conditions. I hope this information
is helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 10/25/2007

► The
Shocking Facts?

I am using bromine tablets in my hot
tub. I work hard at keep the level in the 3-5 PPM and the
water seems to be in excellent shape. Do I still need to
shock?

Bob, Tiburon, CA, 3/5/2009

Good question! If you add a shock treatment, such as a
non-chlorine shock, on a weekly basis or after heavy bather
usage or at the first signs of a loss of water quality, you
will help destroy the buildup of organic byproducts and help
prevent the development of resistant microorganisms. On the
other hand, if you rarely shock the water, you increase the
likelihood of organic byproducts building up and the
development of resistant microorganisms. At the very least,
consider adding some non-chlorine shock after periods of
heavy usage, in order to quickly re-established the bromine
level. I hope that I have been helpful.

Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 3/5/2009

►
Environmental Concerns?

Hi there. Just wondering how
environmentally friendly bromine is when you empty your spa
water containing bromine on your lawn. Thanks.

Wondering, 1/8/2005

Draining a spa onto a landscaped area is always
second best to draining it away from vegetation. However,
ultimately it all ends up in the same place. The spa does
not contain herbicides or chemicals that are expected to
cause landscaping or environmental damage. I hope that I
have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/9/2005

► Chlorine
Tabs Vs. Bromine Tabs?

The other day, while picking up some
more bromine tablets, I was browsing the chemical department
and came across a product that was 1" chlorine tablets. It
contains 90% chlorine and will fit into my bromine floating
feeder. It was a lot less expensive. Can this be used?

Jeff. N., 12/1/2008

The bromine tablets that you are using are slow dissolving
in your spa. This is important in order to provide a
continuous release of bromine into the water. The chlorine
product that you described is intended to be used in a
swimming pool. This product is slow dissolving, as used in a
swimming pool. However, at the temperature of most spas
(104ļF), these tablets will dissolve too quickly, making it
difficult to control the chlorine and pH. Trichlor is not
recommended for use in a spa, in any form. Stick with the
bromine -- you'll have less work and less odor. I hope that
I have been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/1/2008

► Test
Results Not Matching Colors?

Well, here's the deal. I switch to
bromine I never emptied tube I was told no need to. Anyway,
I added the bromine tablets to feeder and I added the
bromine shock to start a bank as well. got no reading so I
shocked it with non-chlorine well that gave me a good dark
reading above twenty plus. I did this since the place I
brought my water sample to said I needed to break the
barrier. I know I got bromine you can smell it now. After
the non-chlorine burns off the next day I take a test and
itís a off pink color on a DPD tester I have added tap water
to tester as well to see how it brings it down, but color
never seems to match the test block really well. I let it go
down to the point on tester were there was no color and
added more non-chlorine again today and it went back up, but
color still off. The place I bring the water to said just
let it burn off you will be fine, but, as I said before it
goes from a pink to nothing. Can you help? Must be something
to get it to look right on tester. Itís a 1000 gal. hot tub
Please help.

Leonard, B., 1/12/2007

Find another way to add tablets! Otherwise, you could
destroy the heater, if the pH falls into the acidic ranges.
Bromine tablets are acidic. Try a floater or a inline
bromine feeder, placed after the heater and equipped with a
check valve. Depending on bather usage, bromine alone might
not be the best solution. Consider adding an
ozonator,
ultraviolet sanitizer or
mineral sanitizer. It sounds like
there was a lot of material for the bromine to react with
and it may take a day or more for all of the organics to be
destroy. Try and keep a bromine level at 3-5 PPM. Unless you
added sodium bromide, the chlorine part of the bromine
tablets, may take a while to convert to bromine. Bring in a
water sample to a local dealer and compare the test results,
with your own. Your test chemicals may be outdated or need
replacement. Personally, I would prefer using a test strip,
such as the LaMotte Insta-Test Strip. High bromine levels
can destroy DPD and provide inaccurate results. Under these
circumstances, these test strips work well. Even better
would be a ColorQ PRO 7, which is all-digital and eliminates
all color-matching. I hope that this information proves
helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/12/2007

► Commercial
Spa And Bromine?

We just started taking care of our
spas at work. I have a 330 gallon and a 550 gallon spa. We
are using bromine tablets in them. The bromine levels seem
to be low as the tablets are slow to dissolve, but that is
not too much of a concern. My main concern is that the pH is
always reading about an 8. I did some research and it said
to add a drop of the chlorine neutralizer and that should
work, but it doesn't seem to change at all. Also we drain
the spa twice a week which is hard to keep the bromine level
up. Any suggestions?

Dominique, Florida, 1/3/2007

I think it is nearly impossible to maintain conditions in a
commercial spa, using only bromine. I suggest that you add
an ozonator and a
Ultraviolet
(UV) Sanitizer. Otherwise, the bather usage
will deplete the sanitizer level too quickly and
replenishment will take too long, as the tablets are slow
dissolving. If reduced chemical usage is the intent, UV
sanitizing is the place to start! UV treatment will reduce
the microbial populations in the return flow to near zero,
without the use of chemicals. However, it cannot oxidize
wastes or totally eliminate the microbial population in pool
or spa water or prevent the growth of biofilm on the
underwater surfaces. Products such as chlorine, bromine) or
non-chlorine shock must be used, in conjunction with UV. How
much will be required will depend upon actual bather usage.
More usage will require more chemicals. In order to assure
that adequate oxidation and sanitation exist at all times, I
suggest that you add an ozonator and try and maintain a 3-5
PPM level of bromine. The ozonator will make it easier to
maintain the bromine level, by providing oxidation. Bromine
will provide the necessary oxidation and sanitizing, while
reducing odor. The UV unit will help decrease microbial
populations and reduce the amount of bromine necessary to
maintain any given PPM level. Over time, charting the amount
of chemicals added, the bather usage and the bromine level
will provide the best indication of actual chemical
requirements. Your pH problem does not seem to be one of
bromine interference: the pH seems simply too high. Add the
equipment, as recommended, and the water will not have to be
changed as often. I hope that this information proves
helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/4/2007

► Ozonator
And Bromine?

What a great Q&A page. After a great
deal of research, your page finally answered many questions.
Here is one that has been bothering me. My spa is, overall,
NO trouble at all. It uses bromine tabs, has ozone and I
shock (non-chlorine) regularly to maintain a +/- 2.0 level in
the spa. The real question is: what is the practical
difference between using tabs which contain dichlor (up to
30% it seems) and using just 96% bromine tabs? Since I am
"activating" regularly, I don't seem to see the difference.
I realize that bromine requires an "activator", but does it
need to be in the tabs? What is your recommendation on the
"ideal" management of the spa chemistry? Thanks!

Chris P., 1/9/2005

You seem to have things well in hand. The fact that you have
an ozone generator, allows you get by with a lower level of
bromine. This combination works very well. Once you have an
established bromide level, all chlorine or bromine will
exist as bromine. The various bromine tabletized products
contain various amounts of bromine and chlorine: it all
converts to bromide in normal spa use. Using bromine tablets
in a floater is very convenient and allows the product to
dissolve slowly over time and no additional sodium bromide
is usually required. If you use granular dichlor or a
tabletized dichlor product, sodium bromide needs to be
present in the water, for the chlorine to convert to
bromine. It must be added separately, if not present in the
product. Bromine has several advantages over chlorine: less
odor, less irritation and more flexibility with the pH. The
presence of a bromine residual confirms that the ozonator's
output and overall maintenance are satisfactory. If bather
usage is high, adding some non-chlorine shock will quickly
boost the bromide level. I would stick with the ozonator,
bromine tablets and non-chlorine shock. I hope that I have
been helpful.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 1/9/2005

► What Is A
Bromide Bank?

I am using bromine tablets and was
told that I need to add something to create a bromide bank.
Why? What is it? Thanks.

No Name, State, 11/12/2008

A "bromide bank" means that there is excess sodium bromide
present in the water. The bromine tablets actually contain a
mixture of bromine and chlorine. As the tablets dissolve,
the chlorine will react with BROMIDES present in the water
and will be converted into BROMINE. In a freshly filled spa,
there are no BROMIDES present. To make sure BROMIDES are
present and available to react with chlorine, a liquid
sodium bromide solution (The Bromide Bank) is added. This is
only done when the spa is freshly filled or refilled. By
doing this, there will be none of the odor that can be
associated with chlorine usage. I hope that I have explained
the product. Enjoy the spa experience.

Sincerely.
Alan Schuster, 11/12/2008

► Bromine
Levels That Spike?

Hi Alan: I am writing because our
bromine levels, that remain steady at 3-5ppm (we have an
ozonator), will sometimes jump up to 20+ ppm, after shocking
the spa. Both my wife and I are somewhat sensitive to high
bromine levels and can't use the spa for at least a couple
of days when this happens. We use a float for the Bromine
pucks. When the Br spikes, we have to leave the float out to
bring the levels down. It does not happen every time I shock
the tub. All other water parameters are within range. The
water in our area is the hardest in the country, so a lot of
chemicals are initially used to bring the hardness down,
then the pH up and to get the alkalinity in line. But, once
that is done everything remains stable except the Br levels.
Any ideas?

Stephen L., 4/2/2009

Because you are maintaining your spa on bromine, excess mps
or chlorine will convert to bromine. When there is nothing
for the shock to react with, the bromine level can only go
up. The ozone generator is doing a lot of the oxidation, so there
is no need to shock as often or with a much product. You
might only do it monthly, when you don't expect to use the
spa. You can quickly drop the bromine level, by adding a
chlorine neutralizer product. Use as directed. I am sure
that this will explain what is happening, in your spa.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 4/3/2009

► Very High
Bromine Levels?

We have emptied and refilled the hot
tub twice now and the bromine count still reads almost 20.
The second time the alkalinity and pH came into the
acceptable ranges, but the bromine is way too high. The tub
was emptied due to folliculitis. Is there any other way to
decrease the bromine level so it is comfortable to use the
spa again. Thanks.

Lori, Canada, 12/28/2009

Only two possibilities. Your test kit is not reading
properly or you are really adding too much bromine. A level
of 3-5 PPM is recommended. The folliculitis could very well
have been caused by too little bromine, which lead to
inadequate sanitation. Sometimes with bromine there is
interference with the pH test. Are you positive that you are
reading PPM of bromine? Have you had a dealer confirm these
test results? You could be adding too much product at a
time. If you are using a monopersulfate shock, it WILL raise
the bromine level, as will all forms of chlorine. There is
no reason that a refilled spa should have a very high
reading, unless too much product has been added. If you have
added too much, you can lower the level by adding a
chlorine/bromine neutralizer product. As a means of
simplifying the sanitizing, you might think about adding an
ozonator and a
mineral sanitizing system. It will allow you
to maintain a low level of bromine 1-2 PPM, with fewer
chemicals and afford better water quality. I hope that the
information proves helpful. Enjoy the new year.

Sincerely. Alan Schuster, 12/29/2009

► Bromine /
Sodium Bromide?

Well I think I goofed up big time. I
have a spa and read on the internet that after refilling
with new water, a bromide bank should be established. I
fully understand how it works now I have read this on your
Q and A page, but before I discovered your page I was trying to
figure out why after adding Sodium Bromide I wasn't getting
a Bromine reading. Please note ONLY after reading your page
did I even realize here was a difference between BROMIDE and
BROMINE. Back to the story: I wasn't getting a bromine
reading on the test kit,. so I added more, and more. Still
nothing. (Note there is a bromine feeder floating in the spa
also). A new pool guy came by and said he doesn't use Sodium
Bromide, and instead just crushes the BROMINE tablets and
tosses it into the water, to get the thing going and get a
reading. So we did that. Well, now the bromine level on the
test kit is THROUGH THE ROOF. (I used a total of one pound
of Sodium Bromide in about 600 gallons of water. The new guy
added about 7 crushed BROMINE tablets.) How do I bring it
down? (the bromine level on the test kit). Do I need to
redrain it and start all over again?

Nameless, 7/1/2006

The crushing the tablets, as a means of speeding up the
dissolution of the bromine will certainly work. But, I would
never recommend the practice. The chemical is very slow
dissolving. Suppose a bather were to get a speck of the
solid bromine in their eye! Not worth the risk. You leaned
that a bromide bank is not bromine. Now I am going to tell
you that the quickest way to boost the bromine level is to
add some non-chlorine shock (preferably a spa formula). This
will react with the bromides and form bromine. It is quick
and completely soluble. It is possible to lower the bromine
level. Many pool or spa dealers carry a product called
chlorine neutralizer. Adding this product will eliminate
some of the bromine very quickly. Use as per the directions.
In the future, remember, you can always add more - you can't
take out. I hope that I have been helpful.

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