Since IRO has free shipping for the holidays, I'm getting myself some new arms. I'm at 3" of lift now and seeing tht they are adjustable I imagine there is going to be some adjustments needed during the install. Anyone have a good write up on how to adjust them all correctly? All 4 fronts are adjustable btw. Thanks!

Since IRO has free shipping for the holidays, I'm getting myself some new arms. I'm at 3" of lift now and seeing tht they are adjustable I imagine there is going to be some adjustments needed during the install. Anyone have a good write up on how to adjust them all correctly? All 4 fronts are adjustable btw. Thanks!

Bottom out the top arm adjustments, that should make them 15" long, I hope you didn't buy them for the adjustment, you do not need it. Set the lower arms at 16" to start then use the lowers to fine tune from there.

Bottom out the top arm adjustments, that should make them 15" long, I hope you didn't buy them for the adjustment, you do not need it. Set the lower arms at 16" to start then use the lowers to fine tune from there.

I got them with the intentions of going to 4" in the future and I know stock arms aren't real friendly at 4" of lift. But what kind of "tuning" should I be doing with the lowers? What measurements am I taking and what should they be? Only reason I'm doing the install myself is because it's 200$ at my 4x4 shop and I don't have that money. Any help is seriously appreciated.

I got them with the intentions of going to 4" in the future and I know stock arms aren't real friendly at 4" of lift. But what kind of "tuning" should I be doing with the lowers? What measurements am I taking and what should they be? Only reason I'm doing the install myself is because it's 200$ at my 4x4 shop and I don't have that money. Any help is seriously appreciated.

The measurements I gave are all you need. The Lower arm dimension is bolt C/L to bolt C/L. If you are planning on going to 4" in the future you screwed up, the arms you bought are basically the same length as OEM arms so they not the greatest at 4" either, you should have bought long arms.

The fine tuning I mentioned is only needed if you have death wobble, it does not track well, or you have driveline vibrations. Hopefully you will be lucky and no problems will crop up.

The measurements I gave are all you need. The Lower arm dimension is bolt C/L to bolt C/L. If you are planning on going to 4" in the future you screwed up, the arms you bought are basically the same length as OEM arms so they not the greatest at 4" either, you should have bought long arms. The fine tuning I mentioned is only needed if you have death wobble, it does not track well, or you have driveline vibrations. Hopefully you will be lucky and no problems will crop up.

I honestly don't have a use for long arms and I've heard good things about the IRO adj arms. I was looking for a heavy duty aftermarket to the open control arms. They get packed with mud and sand and could rust like crazy. They aren't the same length as stock if they're adjusted to be longer...

I honestly don't have a use for long arms and I've heard good things about the IRO adj arms. I was looking for a heavy duty aftermarket to the open control arms. They get packed with mud and sand and could rust like crazy. They aren't the same length as stock if they're adjusted to be longer...

Wait, lets not get silly, you said you are planning on going to 4". At 4" long arms are light years better than short arms for ride and handling. By the questions you are asking you are not in a position to know that yet, I am just pointing it out.

As for arm length settings, I said "basically the same length as OEM arms" obviously if you knew the length of OEM arms you would know that is a fact.....You need to get a little deeper into the geometry involved. At 3" the UCAs do not need to be longer than stock, they actually should be slightly shorter than stock. The LCA length I gave you compensated for the fact IROs UCAs are .100" longer than stock bottomed out. The goal is to re-center the diff in the wheel wells and have your bump stops line up, not to see how far you can screw out the adjustments .

Wait, lets not get silly, you said you are planning on going to 4". At 4" long arms are light years better than short arms for ride and handling. By the questions you are asking you are not in a position to know that yet, I am just pointing it out.

As for arm length settings, I said "basically the same length as OEM arms" obviously if you knew the length of OEM arms you would know that is a fact.....You need to get a little deeper into the geometry involved. At 3" the UCAs do not need to be longer than stock, they actually should be slightly shorter than stock. The LCA length I gave you compensated for the fact IROs UCAs are .100" longer than stock bottomed out. The goal is to re-center the diff in the wheel wells and have your bump stops line up, not to see how far you can screw out the adjustments .

i've heard all the lovely things about long arms. i know all about them. i dont have any experience with them so im sure they do make the jeep ride better than stock. i just dont have the money to spend on a long arm upgrade. i also know a lot of guys who run 4"+ lifts on adjustable short arms, even stock arms who say its fine. its no walk in the clouds but its nothing to complain about. Im also fully aware of the length of the stock arms...also fully aware, that when bottomed out, the IRO arms are "basically" the same length as stock arms. Considering im not at stock height, i was asking if there needed to be any adjustments made to either set of arms and if there were any measurements that needed to be made. I understand the concept of keeping the wheel in the center of the wheel well. Just a little fuzzy as to how to return it to center with the adjustable arms.