AIM

MSN

Website URL

ICQ

Yahoo

Jabber

Skype

Interests

Location

Biography

Occupation

Considering selling my OEM Side Skirts.
In fair condition, will certainly need paint and some repair work. Paint is cracked and some small cracks in the side skirts.
Need €200 to consider selling them which I think is fair as they don't appear too often.

Hi everyone! I'm dropping in from the States as we're finalizing a cool project some of you running or thinking about running auxiliary / methanol injection might be interested in. Please excuse some of the "US-centric" rhetoric from the below copy/paste from my original post on RX7Club.com. If you are interested in one of these, please reply here or on the original post.
As some of you may know, Euro spec and some Canadian spec FDs came from the factory with a larger washer tank, mounted in the rear hatch, behind the plastic panel. The reason for the larger tank was to feed three thirsty systems; the front washers, the rear washer AND the headlight washers (which US cars didn't get). Capacity on this tank is a little over 1.5 Gallons (5.5 Liters) which makes it a GREAT option for a stealthy methanol / auxiliary injection tank.
Euro Tank Mounted
US spec models with rear wipers have a small reservoir in that spot - but the capacity doesn't instill a lot of other uses.
"cute"
The good news is: all FDs have the necessary mounting points and provisions to support the larger tank.
The problem is: finding Euro spec washer tanks. They simply aren't readily available, they are NLA from Mazda and they come with their own share of downsides if we're being perfectly honest.
"Wait a minute... downsides?"
Yeah. There are a few downsides to the Euro washer tank in it's current form.
1) Since the tank is made to house three pumps, that does two things. It eats up internal capacity and has potential areas that can leak:
2) Since the tank is a two-piece design, it has a weird rubber connector between the two tanks. Again, eats up internal capacity and has another potential leak area:
3) There are sensors and hose routing that take capacity and just aren't needed:
4) They don't really have a natural place to add fluid level sensors or nozzles. Most tanks I've seen have even MORE holes drilled to accommodate these guys.
5) It's not cheap. I've seen these sell for over $400USD in old, beat up condition.
So that's the bad news. But the GOOD news is, we've 3D scanned a Euro tank, made modifications in CAD and found a manufacturer to make these. We've addressed the potential issues and made this the best version of rear Euro washer tank that we could.
FRONT
REAR
TOP
BOSS DETAIL
REAR LEFT
REAR RIGHT
FEATURES OF NEW TANK
* Redundant systems, leak points and sensors have been deleted
* Design is now one piece to increase capacity and ease install
* Capacity should be right around 2 Gallons (7.5Liters)
* It will bolt in requiring zero modification
* It should be "agnostic" to whatever injection kit you run
* We provide a large boss for a level sensor as well as a smaller boss for a nozzle on the side of the tank, with an additional three nozzle bosses to accommodate multi-nozzle setups. Each boss would have to be drilled/tapped for your own sensor/nozzle.
Now the only remaining question is: does anyone want this? Tooling costs are not cheap and minimum orders are not low. So this can only really happen if there's real interest. Prices can't be discussed in an interest thread - but it would be around 1/2 the price of used units - but that also depends on how many people commit.
If you're interested, add your name below. If you have questions, by all means ask away. If you can share this on social media / other forums to drum up some interest - that'd be great too. The more interest, the more likely this happens and the lower the price will be.
LINK TO THE ORIGINAL POST / INTEREST LIST: https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-product-dev-fd-rx-7-269/fd3s-rear-euro-washer-fluid-tank-1116357/#post12198009

The brackets the ARB mounts to is pretty crusty on my FD.
OEM replacements are 50quid each but the OEM design looks flimsy.
Researching uprated mounts, the seem to be mainly shorter to allow for lowered cars. Anyone gone down this route?
These FEED ones are in my RHD Japan basket at the minute
https://www.rhdjapan.com/feed-front-short-stabilizer-brackets-fd3s.html

I posted on this thread but realised it's a wanted ad so starting a new thread to make sure it's visible.
I currently have the LIM and UIM off for fitting new gaskets and while I'm here, looking at if I should do anything with injectors.
Car will be running a kinda OEM+ type spec, more for reliability than anything.
Newly rebuilt twins, downpipe, Decat and exhaust. Radtech V-mount. AEM coils, AEM water injection. Power FC.
With this in mind and the benefit of knowledge gained over the time the previous thread was initially started, what are thoughts on the fuel system for a mild modded car.
If the idea is to remain on stock injectors, I'll get them flow tested. Any recommendations, I see Westward bench testing injectors recently...
Standard fuel pump ok with the hard wire mod?

So just wondering if anyone has attempted this locally?
http://www.rx7club.com/adaptronic-engine-mgmt-aus-311/how-galaxy-7-pad-install-adaptive-tuner-stereo-gps-more-1037541/
I will eventually be putting in an Apexi ECU and i know you can connect it with a tablet so just thinking this may be an interesting way of doing it, could use Waze for maps and get a data contract with it. Maybe even a reversing camera....
Probably simpler to buy one of those doubledin android stereos but I find the positioning is not great inside the car so the tablet would be more flexible. (also not sure the apexi stuff would work with them)
Anyway just floating around some ideas.

Hello,
Just wondering if anyone has a link handy to site that would sell a kit of brake discs and pads (4x) for a 96 Mazda RX7 FD3S?
My own are a bit shaky and have a bit of a lip, pads are not that old but I figure I might as well change them while I am at it.
I found this pair on Micks Garage: https://www.micksgarage.com/search/brake discs/mazda/mazda rx7/rx 7 mk iii 1992 to 2002/wankel twin turbo/239
and there is loads of options for brake pads: https://www.micksgarage.com/search/brake pads/mazda/mazda rx7/rx 7 mk iii 1992 to 2002/wankel twin turbo/239
Thanks

I'm looking for a set of 17" wheels to suit an FD3S RX7 that'll fit under the standard arches (so 8J min to 9.5J wide max). Ideally any of the Japanese makes (e.g. Rays, SSR, Advan, Enkei, etc) but no mesh-style wheels (e.g. BBS LM), preferably 6-spoke or 5-spoke but will consider others. What has anyone got?

Mazda RX-7 FD Veilside bodykit for sale.
The kit includes:
1) Fibreglass (FRP) front bumper including splitter (small damage on driver's side lip but still structurally sound)
2) Fibreglass (FRP) side skirts - left & right (underside of skirts has some paint removed, not noticeable unless under the car; box sections are cracked & may require some fibreglass repair work - doesn't affect fitting of the skirts & are still intact)
3) Rear spoiler with adjustable upper wing (paint can be seen cracking slightly on metal spoiler angle adjustment tab)
All parts are in reasonable-to-good condition paintwork-wise as can be seen in the pictures.
The price for everything collected is: €300

Hello All,
Not planning on looking at this for a while but wanted to start the conversation and see what people think. My own 7 still has its original paint but its getting quite faded (to much to be cleaned up anyway)
The only place I have a bit of a rust issue is the boot window which I would like to get sorted but other than that its very clean.
A few people have mentioned wrapping as a cheaper alternative that will offer the same effect so wanted to find out peoples experiences with either option?
(Also I am having to replace the pop up light covers which will be provided unpainted so that will look off until I get this done)
(not sure the pic will be visible)
Thomas

Hello all,
So I recently acquired a 96 fd3s jap import from the UK and am having some issues, well one main one which I assume can be attributed to quite a few different things.
First thing is when the car is cold it wont start, it does turn but it never tries to fire up (Fixed was a bad earth on the ECU). I can get her started with some carb cleaner and once she is warm she will start up again if I cut the engine.
The main issue is that if I let her rev up gradually by lightly applying the throttle she goes up no problem but if I put my foot down a bit more she starts coughing and spluttering and misfiring. However if i drive her for about a couple of miles, turn the engine off and back on she starts to work perfectly.
the car was off the road for 18 months minimum so she has been sitting around for a long time. She had an engine rebuild about 3 years ago and has only done 2000~ miles since.
What I know about the car:
Car was off the road for 18 months
Engine was Rebuilt about 3 years ago and has only done 2000~ miles since rebuild
The car was running smoothly up to 18 months ago (I trust the source of this as it is a family member and I know how they treat there cars and stuff in general)
She has a standard ECU
What has been done so far:
Full Compression test completed and Successfull
New spark plugs
New tank of fuel with some of that additive stuff (The engine cleaner stuff)
New air filter (old one was dirty)
Pulled the throttle body off and it all looks clean
Removed TPS sensor and checked connections
I have given all connections and pipes as close an inspection as I could and can see no obvious damage
Secondary throttle valve temporarily replaced because some of my own looked a bit loose, did not help so reverted
Igniter also replaced as a test and made no difference so reverted
Vacuum Check valve reconnected (was apart, glued it back together and ordered a replacement)
Tested current lead resistance T1 = 10.7 T2 = 6.27 L1 = 7.84 and L2 = 5.44 @20k on the multimeter
Checked Spark on each plug and all seems good
Injectors have been checked and look good
Fuel line is fuelling....
Fuel filter is good
Found a broken ground on the ECu which has been fixed and has resolved the fact the car did not start on her own
Replace Oil and filter
What I am still planning to try based on recommendations from here and other places:
Possible TPS sensor adjustment or replacement?
Check Solenoids
Any other advice would be appreciated, I am currently registering her and have zero budget for parts, doubt she will pass the NCT at this stage. A short video here so you can here the issue somewhat, can make some more if you want.
***Possible Fixes***
Just a quick edit to say I have found someone with the same issue, took me a while to find the video, on a comment on another video he points to
Thanks
Thomas

Has anyone an FD coolant filler neck (see pic) for sale? (As close to Dublin as possible preferably but can travel if needs-be) If so, please post up or PM what you have & what you want for it. Thanks in advance!

Hello all,
Just wondering if anyone knows what happens after the ecu is reset. My own baby still has the factory standard and after a reset the first start the car has the usual issues, however on the second start the car works normally. Third start and thereafter the issues resume.
Is there so.ething specific being done on the second start. As far as I can find out it takes up to 10 times engine on and off for it to recalibrate fully but not all that sure what it's doing.
Any advice appreciated
Thanks

Hello,
Just wondering if anyone can recommend a silicone tube kit, found this one on ebay but hoping there is one in Ireland or the UK maybe: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-92-02-Mazda-RX7-FD3S-TWIN-TURBO-Blue-/351761310736?hash=item51e69ba410:g:EHYAAOxyyq5TNcDG
Thanks
Thomas

Hello, wondering if some other kind members with 95/96 fd3s's could check something for me.
I have the service manuals from 93 and 94 and on both they indicate the Leads to be in the following order:
Front of the car => back of the engine bay
T1 L1/L2 T2
T1 T2
L1 L2
I have not been able to check where the leads go to yet but the ignition coils are installed differently:
T1 T2 L1/L2
So the leading ignition coils are on the back of the engine. I plan on taking a few bits out tomorrow to find out more but I am wondering if anyone elses car is setup this way or if it is just mine and therefore could that be why she is misbehaving? :-)

Hi All,
Is anyone interested in doing a groupbuy for the LRB dash vent. I have just sent them a mail asking for discounts but even if none is offered it may be worth it to combine postage.
I am also looking at getting these powdercoated black.
Potentially have them for the Rotary day in July.
I will update with prices as soon as I hear back but for now is anyone interested?
http://lrbspeed.com/product/fd-defrost-vent/
Regards,
Mike

Hello Everyone,
My name is Thomas and I recently came to own a 96 RX& FD3S.
At first she would not start (Just a clicking sound) and after some fiddling she now turns, wont actually fire up without a bit of help (Carb cleaner) so currently have the throttle body out to give it a clean and see if the TPS needs adjusting.
She was sitting around a farm yard for 18 months not covered or anything so needs a bit of cleaning.
Anyway hope to chat to some more of you soon and hopefully meet some of you around the place.
Thomas