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Ok to clean glass get tough and do not wreck the machine, sounds bad but damage could occure if your not careful but forceful.
1)down load any faxes not printed or sent to your computer
2)turn unit off with power button
3)inside of paper exit opening in the upper left hand side push green slide lever towards the back of the machine,,this locks the scanner carage(you can also see the green lock through the scanner glass to the left of the scanning carage as you move the lock). I did this not to disturbe the scanning carage while cleaning the glass.
4)the lid to the scanning bed has to be removed by lifting the complete tray to it's limit and unplugging the data cable,,it is in the middle between the hinges(pinch the cable connector plug locks on both sides and pull out the connector. To release the rectangular hinges lift and tilt the complete unit further back toward the rear of the printer/fax machine. It should lift out and REMEMBER that rear tilt when replacing the fax/printer feed unit as the hinges don't just slide back in to the respective holes.
5)there are two screws near where the hing holes are on eather side of the scanner cover they must be removed.
6)NOW this is the tricky part with only your hands no tools,,,with a large amout of force lift the back corner of the scanner cover(this does not seem possable but lifting at the side of the machine the cover does have a slight lip to lift with and it makes tearable sounds of distruction BUT IF you lift each side near the rear upward for about 1/2inch at a time(side to side)"2 INCHES ONLY" total the cover will give enough room to CAREFULLY reach your hand under the scanner cover with a damp rag to clean the glass and dry with a lint free rag(micro fiber rags work). I used no cleaners at all but lint free is the ticket. DO REALIZE THE TRAY ONLY LIFTS UP ABOUT 2 INCHES from the rear and it should stay up at the 2 inch hight. The removal of the scanning cover would mean more dissasembly of the unit and I saw no need to go that far.
6)NOW to replace the scanner cover (hopefully you were carefull enough not to crack or break the glass as lifting unevenly or pulling upward more than 2 inches could be the end to your scanner. The trick to get the cover back down with the registration tabs into thier respective holes,,it helps to pull outward on the sides of the plastic body where the tabs have to drop down into,,the large taps at the rear are a little less co-operative but with a bit more force the back body will seperate slightly and the read pins fall into place.
7)put the screws back in, then the scanner cover hinges first and snap the data cable into place,,Don't forget to slide the scanner lock (green tap)towards you to unlock the scanning tray.
Good Luck, it sounds difficult and it might be but it can be done without damage. I'm sure a true service repair man would not like the method but my machine is near it's final useful days.

If all you want to do is to replace the lid, there are two TORX 15 screws on each side. Undo those and the lid should slide right off the pins. Be careful to not drop them into the tub or dispensers. You can then slide the new lid right on. Put the screws back on and test. If you lift the top cover off and mess with the springs, it is a PAIN to take off and put back on.

The inner door glass is held on by two clips at the bottom (hinge side) and two slides near the handle side. Remove the door from the oven and lie it the worktop flat with the hinges uppermost. Near the hinges you will see the glass is angles leaving a triangle of metal frame either side near the hinges.Rest the outside of your hand on the metal for purchase and then pull on the glass along the bottom edge (reasonable tug required) this will disengage the bottom clips and then slide the glass down about an inch to remove completely.

For some reason my scanner over the years has developed a film/residue from the off gassing of the plastic etc. on the underside of the glass. Even though it did not seem to affect the quality of a scan, it was something that should not be present.

Here are the steps that I went though to accomplish that....

1) lock the lamp (switch on the bottom)
Very good idea.

2) open the lid and at the hinge end there are 3 screws (2 are recessed) & another screw in the middle.remove the 2 screws that are recessed (The one in the middle can remain in place.)

Warning: This cable is attached to a little PCB that has two connectors. It is best that you remove the cable on the scanner base side, since it is easier to re-insert back into the connector.

Note: That there are slots in the PCB that are to align with slots in the plastic that make up the base (will talk to this later).

3) After removing the two screws, the tricky part starts - the lid and glass and framing around the glass ( 3

sides) can slide out toward the back (toward the screws (that you just removed), lid hinges). This should Only

slide out approx 0.75in before the glass & frame are free of the bottom assy.
Note: the glass continues under the front bezel for approximately 0.75" 18-19mm. This is the reason that you are required to slide the assy. off the base.

Note: near the hinges the lid assy. is rather flexible so the following is possible. This sliding process that I & the previous writer write about is extremely hard. What I did was to take a very wide flat screw driver and used it as a pry bar.

Note: that there are tabs that have to clear the opening that you create when trying to insert the flat screw driver.
This enabled me to get a great deal of mechanical advantage over the process. I placed the scanner on it side

with the bottom facing me. Then I placed the tip of the screw driver against the hinge ( inside the scanner, part of the lid assy.) and used the base where the hinge is normally located (when assembled) as the pivot point.

Note: Go from one hinge point to the other and continue to use this method until the lid assy. is free.

Note: I only slid the lid assy. out approx. 1/8" or 3mm or less before going to the other hinge & repeating the process.

Note: after the lid w/glass assy. is free pivot the whole assy. at the hinge side to gain access to the base cable & disconnect it from the PCB.

Warning: The cable from the base to the lid (PCB) needs to be disconnected since there is not a great amount of free length of cable to work with and this cable is a great deal easier to reconnect during re-assembly than the one from the lid.

4) At this point the glass & lid assy. are free of the base assy.

5) clean the glass. It is glass, so one can use isopropol alcohol or distilled water.
Use a lent free cloth and make sure all the dirt, and deposited vapor/off gassing is cleaned off.

6-9) Reverse steps 4 through 1 to reassemble.
Note: I did not reverse those steps since it was not necessary. What I did was at a very slight angle slide the glass under the front bezel.
Note: I first made sure that the cables (lid & base) were connected to the PCB, & as I was sliding the lid assy. into position. I also made sure that the PCB slots were properly aligned to the plastic slots in the base assy.

Note: I did not worry about if the clips on each side were engaging or not. This enable me to make sure that the cables were attached & that the PCB was positioned properly. After everything looked good I pressed the Lid assy. & base together so as to engage the clips on both sides. This does not require a great amount of force/pressure to accomplish.

Warning: Do not forget to unlock (the slide switch for) the lamp.

10) Clean the top surface same as step 5 (prior to plugging it back in of course).

OK dude, I have been doing hours of research for the same problem with mine. Here is the deal - you can do this WITHOUT having to remove the entire headliner. 1. open sunshade 2. remove plastic covers form the 4 lift hinges for the glass. 3. unscrew bolts for hinges - take careful note of the amount and position of all spacers for each of the 4 hinges (they may have different amounts - reinstall exactly as found). 4. carefully remove glass 5. move bracket back (via switch or hex-wrench_ about 4 in - you will see the "lift wedge" to the side of each bracket - they are each screwed into the rail with 2 small screws. 6. unscrew both lift wedges 7. slide mechanism (switch or hex-wrench back and forth until you see the little plastic part go by in the hole that you have just uncovered - voila!. you will likely see/find bits of broken plastic from the pieces that you are replacing. 8. while you are there thoroughly clean out the gutters and insure drainage holes are clear avoid grease, since that adds to the muck in there. 9. remove the old and drop in the new replacement pieces using needlenose pliers - note the pieces are asymetrical and have a particular left and right side- install correctly, narrow part towards the rear. 10. test to make sure it is sliding correctly. 11. close fully, then reinstall glass, putting spacers back properly, re screwing (don't over tighten as you will break the glass - doh!) and replace hinge covers. Drink a beer - you just saved yourself hundreds in labor costs.

The quick and dirty method is to head for the local dollar shop for some furniture moving pads or sliders, but that won't stop the damage that caused the machine to walk in the first place. That leave the slow and dirty method.

First, does the machine 'walk' every time you do the wash, or just when there are heavy items in the load? If your washing machine has a liquid filled balance ring at the top of the tub, just under the lid, it will not work if it has cracked and leaked out all of the water in it. Has something gone over the side of the basket like coins, sneaker parts (yes, it happens) or brassiere wires?

Lift the washer lid, check the balance ring. If you have a construction level, place it along the edge at the front of the machine, then at the side. If the bubble is not in the exact middle on both axis, twist up (or down) on the support feet until it is. It may be as simple as sliding a furniture moving puck under the offending foot.

Go back up top, open the lid, and gently squeeze around the edge of the tub. It should give no more than 1/2 an inch, and spring back to center.

This is acutally easier than it looks. I just had the same problem with a cloudy film starting to form underneath the glass on my older HP 4400C scanner.

First completely remove the hinged top lid by lifting straight up on both long ends of the lid - notice the 2 hinges on the back end of the lid will come straight up and out of the body of the scanner, still attached to the lid.

Next look down inside the 2 hinge holes (on the main body of the scanner where the lid hinges just came out of) and you will see a screw in each hole. Remove both screws using a phillips screwdriver. This will allow the rear end of the scanner to come apart enough so you can now lift it up a few inches to separate it and get your hand inside there to clean the underside of the glass with a soft cloth - BUT JUST REMEMBER THE FRONT END OF THE SCANNER WILL STILL BE CONNECTED, so don't pull it too far apart because it could snap and break something that is still holding the front end together. (I could not figure out how to separate the front end piece, and then I realized I didn't have to).

So on the rear end of the scanner, now carefully pull the light upper colored plastic apart from the lower dark plastic just enough so you can get your hand inside the compartment and use a soft cloth to clean the underside of the glass. I just used a small piece of an old cotton t-shirt with a couple little dabs of water on it and then just kept rubbing the dirty areas on the underside of the glass over and over until all the dust film/streaks disappeared and the glass was once again clean and all clear.

Then gently lower the glass back down and line up the plastic pieces together on the rear end and put the 2 screws back in the hinge holes, and then reinsert the hinges in their slots and lower the lid back on top of the scanner glass and it is ready to go again !!

With printer facing away from you, remove the screw from under the right-hand corner of the lid at the very back behind the hinge. Then remove the two (shorter) screws from the top of the lid, in the square openings.

Turn the printer around, and carefully raise the entire lid. At this point, it is advisable to place a cloth over the printer innards, in case you drop a screw. Remove the three screws along the front of the lid, inside the round recesses, pointing upwards.

Remove the two screws on each side of the lid, pointing upwards.

Gently coax the dark gray cover away from the lighter gray base of the lid. It is probably easier to do this by pulling the front corners slightly outwards, and sliding a finger in between. The top of the lid should come off easily, exposing the underside of the glass.

After cleaning, replace the cover carefully. The lid must be up, and the posts of the hinges must align with the holes at the back. In stall the two (short) screws in these locations first, then replace all the remaining longer screws.