We are proud to announce a new HVAC inspection service designed for real estate sales with our partners at Quality Air (Air Conditioning and Heating). I’m getting great feedback from this service- it really is an excellent value. Read on for more information:

Who should get an HVAC inspection? This service is highly recommended for all equipment that is not still under warranty (generally older than 1 year) and for all houses within 30 miles of Asheville (within Quality Air’s service area). Nearly every homebuyer would benefit from this service. Most HVAC companies generally do not perform real estate inspections, as they only want to work with the current homeowner. As far as I know, we are the only home inspection company that is currently offering this level of HVAC evaluation for homebuyers.Quality Air will come and perform a full HVAC real estate inspection for our clients as long as it is scheduled with us a couple of days before the home inspection.

How much does it cost? This service costs $120 per heat pump/ AC unit/ Furnace. Some larger homes have 2 or more systems. This is an excellent value considering new heat pump/furnace equipment could cost anywhere between $7,000 and $19,000. What’s included in the inspection? HVAC evaluation by home inspectors is limited. We do not have the special equipment or knowledge that HVAC contractors do. Quality Air is able to check important HVAC functions such as refrigerant pressures, heat exchangers, electric heat strip amperages, gas pressures, and runs a full combustion analysis to check efficiency and carbon monoxide output of fossil fuel systems.

This is an incredibly thorough evaluation- see the sample report below. An oil furnace, for example, can take up to 4 hours to fully evaluate!

​What are the advantages of getting an HVAC inspection?Defects found in the report can be used as negotiating items and the buyer will learn more about the system’s maintenance and repair needs/costs and can budget accordingly. This is also a great opportunity for buyers to establish a relationship with a local reputable HVAC company—Quality Air.

How do I order an HVAC Inspection? If the equipment is older than 1 year and the home within 30 miles of Asheville, you can select the HVAC inspection on our online submission form here, or request it by phone or email 2 or more days in advance of the home inspection.ABOUT QUALITY AIR: Quality Air is a locally owned company based out of Asheville and has been in business for over twenty-five years. They offer financing plans through Wells Fargo. Quality air has an excellent membership maintenance program as well—see the attached document for details.

Yesterday in the Shiloh neighborhood of Asheville I inspected another unique house. The owner, as you can see from the pics, had a thing for trains. Imagine how all this looked in it's full glory? Dioramas were built at the front and back yards and on custom soffits in all of the living areas inside the house.

When I was a kid my Great Uncle Chuck built a similar train world up in his attic. He'd get in full uniform and would drive that train with as much seriousness as any real conductor-- more smoke billowing out of his tobacco pipe than his model train engine. As a kid this was pure magic.I wonder how many children's lives this guy affected with his creations? Those children are probably adults now like me. And how many of them are going to carry on this tradition? Speaking for myself it's tempting.How calming it must be to check into a miniature world of order where the train only goes forwards or backwards and the Ticket Inspector is always smiling at the station. We are in political turmoil right now but imagine what was going on during their time? Vietnam, Cold War, Gas shortage, Nuclear Arms race... When news from the world got crazy they probably just turned on the ballgame, fired up the wood stove and started painting a new tree for the meadow. Train dioramas are like the Western version of the Japanese Bonsai tradition- it's Zen, and I completely respect it.Realistically i will probably never have the patience and discipline for this kind of work but it was nice to inhabit this space yesterday even if just briefly.

Just as a fun exercise let's take a look at the house on Zillow's mobile app splash screen. Do we see any potential issues? I'm seeing a yellow flag at the foundation area. If we zoom in a little (see photo below) we see a concrete slab sticking out beyond the siding. The foundation is not supposed to stick out this way, so what is happening here? Evidence suggests this slab was an old porch/patio and the owners decided to build an addition into this area--peeking through the window it looks like it was renovated into a large open plan kitchen and dining area. I would look for confirmation of this in the crawlspace/basement- there probably isn't any access under this area. Here are a few reasons why this is an important observation:
1. Typically siding should be installed to direct water away from the framing but in this case the siding terminates right at the foundation slab. The slab is level and not sloped away from the house and water will sit there decaying the siding, sheathing and framing. I would scrutinize the outside and inside perimeter for water damage.
2. Patio slabs are usually not adequate for addition foundations. Patio surfaces are often sloped, thinner and do not have water proofing, insulation or conduits/chases for electrical/plumbing and ductwork. We do not know for certain this is the case but I would be looking for more evidence to support this theory (based on experience there is a high probability this is the case) Depending on what other defects I find I may ask the buyer to verify the construction permits for this addition.
3. I would be looking closely at how heating/cooling, electricity, and plumbing is provided to this area. I would also be looking at the framing, insulation and ventilation of the attic area. If the general contractor was careless enough to build a kitchen/dining room on a patio slab they probably made other amateurish errors and I would be looking closely for them.
Feel free to send me any other high profile house pictures that may have issues- this was fun! As always, if you are buying, selling, or maintaining a home be sure to hire a Home Inspector with renovation experience that can recognize patterns like this.

These FAILS are all from my home inspection reports, Many of these situations look harmless from the outside but in at least one example in every Fail the related damages in the finished walls, basements and crawl spaces caused the buyers to back out, In most cases the sellers lowered the asking price, sometimes by tens of thousands of dollars. All of these issues could have been prevented for cents on the dollar. If you are buying, selling or maintaining please read on and if your home is within 40 miles of Asheville consider calling us for an inspection.

FAIL #9: Splash blocks, perforated drain pipes and other fails: Run-off should be directed at least 6 feet away from the house and splash blocks are inadequate for this purpose. An exception might be at a concrete or asphalt patios/driveways that are well-sloped away from the house. Downspout drain pipes should slope downhill and away from the house. The downspout drain pipes should not have any holes in it. The perforated types are for French drains only.

FAIL #8:Leaking gutter corners and seams: Drip, drip, drip- it's water torture for your trim, siding and house foundation. All the seams, corners and end caps should be re-caulked or re-sprayed every 3 years.

FAIL # 7:Leaking downspout elbows and connections:This subtle leak caused major framing damage in the crawl space- water entered between the siding and brick and down the wall. The lower section of the downspout should always be larger than the upper section. There may be leaks at the fasteners and seams. Check for corroded sections- especially with older copper downspouts. Clogged gutters and downspouts make these leaks worse.

FAIL # 6: Clogged sub-surface drains:Sometimes all that can be seen is some erosion near the downspout. When the sub-surface drains clog the run-off typically overflows at the foundation areas. Because this can be difficult to see, the damages can be catastrophic over the years. Homeowners can test their downspouts drains by slipping a garden hose into them at full pressure for up to 5 minutes- try to find where the drain exits. The water should not overflow. Clogged black corrugated drains usually cannot be fixed or snaked- I'm seeing they have an 8 to 15 year life expectancy which is not good. I recommend upgrading with PVC pipes that do not easily break, clog or compress and they can be snaked-- these are lifetime products and well worth the minimal extra material and labor cost.

FAIL # 5: Missing splashguards at roof valleysA lot of water collects a the roof valleys and heads toward the gutters at high volume and high speed. Splashguards help to prevent overflow and directs the water back into the gutters. The photo above was taken of a house with an expensive roof and gutter system. Overflow at the valley caused major structural damages to the main level and finished basement.

FAIL # 4: Missing, damaged, mis-aligned, and disconnected downspout drainsAny one of these is bad bad BAD for your foundation! I find these at almost every house I inspect. A little prevention goes a long way with roof drainage. Sometimes these fails can be very subtle or hidden by shrubs-- inspect these connections carefully.

FAIL # 3:Gutters, gutters, gutters!!Trees over or near a house often create maintenance issues for the gutter system. Arborists should be hired for regularly trimming at houses with trees in close proximity. Old asphalt roofs shed granules which can also clog gutters. Clogged gutters overflow and damage the siding, trim, and foundation areas. Gutters should be cleaned in the Spring and Fall, sometimes more than once a season depending on the conditions. Check out this excellent article on gutter guards by Tim Carter: https://www.askthebuilder.com/gutter-protection-vs-gutter-cleaning-cost-analysis/​In most cases gutter installation is an art best left to the professionals. Gutters should slope adequately toward the downspouts but not too much or they will overflow. Special flashing is required where gutters terminate at walls and the gutter should always be spaced 1" from the siding. Loose gutters will allow water to damage the trim and framing behind the gutters.

FAIL # 2: Defective rain catchment systemsThere are a lot of DIY and amateurish rain barrel systems out there. I am seeing that over 90% of them are creating big issues for the homeowners. Usually they don't have a very good overflow system (what happens to the water when the barrel fills?). In the example in the photo the finished room at the other side of this barrel needed to be fully gutted.

FAIL # 1: Missing gutters and downspoutsEven small sections of roofs without gutters can cause oversized damage to the home. Gutters and downspouts are really inexpensive compared to the damages that improperly managed roof drainage can create.

In Asheville rain catchment systems are a popular and eco-friendly way to capture and use rainwater- primarily for irrigation. The main advantages are that the water doesn’t contain chorine/fluorine added by county treatment plants and the homeowner can reduce their public water consumption and expenses.

Author: Jason Bellamy

Unfortunately most of the installations that I see while performing home inspections in the Asheville area are defective and can, if left un-repaired over many years, cause structural issues, water penetration, mold, rot, and air quality issues in the crawl space/basement. Before installing a rain catchment system homeowners should understand that they are modifying important components of the house drainage system- the downspouts and sub-surface drains- which are designed to protect the home from water damage. It’s not enough to run downspouts into a barrel because they will inevitably overflow during big rain events. Improperly installed systems will negate any water savings by causing expensive foundation repairs which is why a licensed landscaper and/or a rain catchment specialist should install these systems. Owners of these catchment systems should budget for regular maintenance and repairs and they should inform gardeners/maintenance workers, and renters/occupants about how the system works so they don’t move or damage the components.
The picture was taken at the Asheville Earth Fare at the Westgate Mall (a local institution and one of my family’s favorites).

According to the most recent U.S. Census Bureau's data, an American's median net worth at age 70 is $225,000, but excluding home equity that number drops to $69,000. As the graph shows, Home Equity is, by far, the largest contributor to our net worth across all age categories.

This is why Buying, Selling and Maintaining a home are the most important financial decisions we make in our lifetime.
​A house is a sanctuary and can also be a vehicle to real wealth if we take care of it. Unfortunately homes with undiscovered issues can lead to financial calamity. For example, un-checked water penetration and structural issues in a finished basement can lead to repairs in the 6 figures (quite common in our area). These costs could wipe out a homeowner's entire retirement savings.

Beyond considering location, valuation, timing, and cash flow Americans should consider the 3 Don'ts of Real Estate to enjoy the full financial benefits of home-ownership and minimize risks:

The 3 Don'ts of Real Estate:

Don't buy a house without knowing its true condition

Don't sell a house without knowing its true condition

Don't let another year go by without preventing potentially catastrophic defects

Before buying or selling a home, or letting another year go by without a maintenance inspection, a home owner should hire a qualified Home Inspector to prevent and anticipate expensive issues When it comes to an objective and knowledgeable evaluation of a house, the independent Home Inspector is the homeowners best ally. Not all home inspectors are the same-- a good home inspector has real renovation and construction estimation experience and can recognize the difference between easy fixes and costly repairs.

Once defects are discovered, the home owner should work with a qualified general contractor to help prioritize, budget and to generate a repair plan.

It's hard to put a price tag on the enjoyment we get from our home but statistics also show that more than any other asset class every dollar and drop of sweat invested in our homes will pay us huge dividends later in life, especially for those that buy, maintain and sell well.

Jason Bellamy

An Asheville area Real Estate Agent and Home Inspector tackle the question

Author: Jason Bellamy

Author: Suzanne Devane

Jason the Home Inspector
Hey Suzanne, as a real estate agent at Asheville Realty Group, do you ever get the question, “Would you buy this house?” It’s a question that I get all the time and sometimes dread. On the one hand, helping to answer this question is exactly why people are hiring me. When I bought my first house I wanted my home inspector to look me in the eye and tell me that the house was okay and that I was making a good purchase. I was disappointed when he didn’t.
On the other hand, how could someone ever answer this question for anyone else? People buy houses for different reasons. Some people love renovating, other buyers can’t stand the thought of basic maintenance. Home buying is very personal and people have distinct reasons for selecting the house that they do.

Home inspectors only hold a small piece of the puzzle when it comes to home selection process. We don’t consider location, schools, charm, or value when we perform an inspection. Our job is to seek and find defects and report them. Having said that there are a few rare cases when I am tempted to say something above and beyond my home inspection. Before I get into one of those cases, do you ever get this question? What are your thoughts?

Suzanne the Real Estate Agent
Jason – I know that question well, and I’ll always start by saying there’s a buyer for just about every home!

As a real estate agent, my top job is to understand my buyer’s needs and circumstances. Otherwise, it’s just a case of the blind leading the blind. Let me give you an example of a home that can demonstrate an ‘iffy’ situation and how an agent can ultimately help buyers answer that question in a way that makes sense for them.

Here’s the example: Vintage charmer in a desirable and central neighborhood with good schools nearby. Surrounded by grand old homes, great yard space, three levels of finished living, great price. On the flip side, it’s been on and off the market for about two years, the main level floor plan is a bit weird, and it appears that a support beam may have been removed from the lower level if the sagging first floor indicates anything.

Let’s say my buyers are a young couple with a toddler and this is the first time they’re buying a home. The wife LOVES the charm of the place and its location, and is willing to overlook the floor plan.
Here’s how I’d proceed: dig, Dig, DIG!! First, I’m going to have a frank talk with the listing agent. In NC, we are lucky to live in a state where agents must disclose “material facts” that can influence whether someone would put an offer on the home. So, yeah, I’m going to sound like the Spanish Inquisition to make sure my buyers will not be surprised by any issues AFTER they close on the home. I will ask the listing agent specific questions about the home’s condition and background and expect specific responses. If I don’t get them, the red flags start waving!!

I’m also a firm believer in talking to the neighbors – it’s amazing how much they know and how much they’re willing to tell you. Finally, I’m looking at the public records to see what permits have been pulled and when. Once I have this information assembled, it’s time for me to present the information to the potential buyers and see how they wish to proceed.

If they want to make an offer and end up with a contract, then Jason, I’m bringing you in to do the most detailed inspection you’ve ever done. Based on what you say, I might even suggest bringing in a structural engineer. Sure, it’s an optional investment for the buyers to make, but it’s preferable to making a big-ticket repair down the line.

Now, that entire scenario might play out quite differently if my buyer is a contractor who wants to flip the house, or an experienced homeowner who loves undertaking gut rehabs.

BTW, in this situation I personally wouldn’t buy the home. As a busy real estate agent, I’d become an alcoholic having to deal with the known unknowns that come with that property!!
So, what would you recommend for my first time buyers if they brought you in to look at the home I’ve just described?

This guide is intended to help inform buyers how to make the most of their due diligence time and money. Everyone knows that a Home Inspection is a must when buying a house but what about some of the lesser known tests and inspections? The lender may require the buyer to order them but what if they don't? Read on to learn more about Radon, & Water Testing, and Pest, Well, Septic, & Chimney Inspections.
​RADON TEST
Cost: $120
Recommended for all houses in all areas of Western North Carolina regardless of foundation type. Highly recommended if children, elderly or persons with a history of lung disease will be living in the home.

Builder Buddy Inspectors conduct the radon tests using the RadStar RS300 Continuous Monitor device or the Airchek Charcoal tests. The testing equipment is placed in the lowest finished space of the home for 2-4 days and takes readings every hour. One of the advantages of the continuous monitor is that it produces 48-96 readings instead of just one with the charcoal/cartridge tests. The additional information is used to produce graphs that show radon spike and tampering events. Results are back in 2-4 days after home inspection.

WDIR/PEST INSPECTION
Cost: $120
Recommended for all wood framed houses. This includes houses with brick and stone veneer. Highly recommended for older homes, or homes with wet basements/crawlspaces, discolored/damaged/stained sub-floors or when insect damage is suspected.

The WDIR inspector produces reports that may also contain a treatment plan and estimate. Our partners are professional, experienced, economical, and don’t upsell our clients services they don’t need. Reports are back the same or next day after inspection.

WATER TESTING
Cost: $95 for Bacteria-only $165 for Full Scan
Recommended for any house with a well, spring or rain catchment system that supplies water to the house. The Bacteria-only screening is the most basic test. The Full scan screening tests for bacteria, metals, pesticides and more. Highly recommended for older wells/older equipment or when no filtration equipment is present.

Our home inspectors carefully extract the sample from the site and transport it to an independent certified laboratory to have it tested. Results are back in 1-2 days after home inspection.

CHIMNEY INSPECTION
Cost: $249 for Level 2 Inspection, $199 for additional flues
Recommended for any gas or wood-burning stove or fireplace with a flue. Highly recommended for any masonry chimney with a clay flue liner that is being used to vent a gas or wood-burning fireplace.

Our partners perform a Level 2 real estate inspection that may include a cleaning if necessary. Also includes a camera inspection of the flue, inspection of chimney cap, chimney masonry, flashing, fireplace, firebrick, flue, foundation and more. Reports are generally back the next business day after the inspection.

SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
Cost: Typically $499 (up to $650 further out of town)
Recommended for any house with a septic tank system. Highly recommended for older/larger houses with a septic system or when the Home Inspector asks for further evaluation.

The septic tank is pumped for the inspections, which is a benefit. The inspector searches for cracks and other defects. If the home inspector is scheduled at the same time then pictures can be taken. The report is generally provided 1-2 days after the inspection.

WELL INSPECTION
Cost: $399
Recommended for older homes and/or older pump and equipment or when Home Inspector asks for further evaluation. Highly recommended for older equipment, leaks or defects are observed by the inspector, or it is required by the lender.

Our well inspection partner is able to determine the approximate depth, flow and recovery for the well and also inspects the pump and pressure tank.

Helpful Tip:When possible homebuyers should schedule the inspections the same day as their scheduled home inspection. Aside from giving access to the other inspectors the Home Inspector can take pictures and gather more information to present to the buyer. If a radon test is ordered, the Home Inspector typically returns to the house 2 or 3 days later to retrieve the radon kit. This is another opportunity to coordinate further testing without paying another site visit charge. As a convenience to their clients Builder Buddy Home Inspections schedules and coordinates the other inspections and presents it in one invoice- making due diligence easy.

Designing a smaller house is perhaps the best way to keep overall costs down but this article is about keeping the relative cost or the price per square foot ratio down. Most new custom homes in Asheville fall between $150 and $300 per square foot to build. In other words, a 2000sf house built at $150/sf will cost $300,000 to build- this includes all materials, labor and contractor fees, but not land. But why, the reader may ask, are some houses twice as expensive to build? Many people who aren't familiar with construction costs might assume that a good way to save money is to shop for the cheapest builder- but this is rarely a good idea. The cost of the house is dictated almost entirely by the design and selections.

Dollars and sense.

In this article I'm going to discuss 3 powerful strategies to maximize square footage and quality while keeping the price per square foot ratio down. The first 2 strategies, and perhaps the most important depend on smart design. The third strategy depends on intelligent selections of finishes.Most of the recommendations in this article have the double benefit of keeping construction AND maintenance costs down which is important if the house is owned longer term. There’s a lot of good information here—things that I’ve gleaned from being a designer, builder, home inspector and estimator. I hope this article helps those who want to bring more affordable houses to the market by adding value with smarter design and selections.

DESIGN STRATEGY #1: SIMPLIFY THE FORM

This plan has 35 corners

Same square footage. 8 corners.

Reduce Foundation Corners. The more corners a house foundation has the more complicated and expensive it will be to construct—from foundation to roofing and framing, to finishes. The simplest and cheapest house to construct and maintain has 4 corners. When a homeowner or architect adds corners to the design it adds costs. The owner should ask themselves these questions: Do the added corners make the house more livable or functional? Do they add visual appeal? Are the additional costs and maintenance worth it? If the answers are no then simplify.

Multiple dormers

Reduce Complicated Rooflines and Dormers Many new home designs try to mimic the appearance of older homes by looking like they've had many additions over the decades, but complicated rooflines and an over-abundance of dormers drive up construction and maintenance costs. Every dormer in a house is an opening in the roof—which exposes the house to potential water and structural issues. New construction is an opportunity to avoid these issues. After 20 or 30 years the roofline might be modified anyways so it's wise to start with a simpler form.Reduce Garage, Porches, and Decks.When it comes to adding value to a home, heated square footage is the gold standard. Garages and covered porches require nearly all the same costs but might only appraise for 30% of what the interior spaces do. Unless the space is easily converted try to limit the scope here.

Cheap square footage

DESIGN STRATEGY# 2: GO UP NOT SIDEWAYS
​Reduce site work, foundation, roofing and other costs.
Foundations and site work are expensive in the mountains which is why this strategy is doubly true in Western North Carolina. These points can not be over-emphasized:
1) Keep construction expenses down by limiting the size of the footprint. (More on why this is true here)
2) Design upward not sideways.
3) Try to maintain the shape as much as possible through all levels.When a home is vertical rather than horizontal like in this illustration, there are essentially no added roofing or foundation costs. Adding both a second floor and a finished daylight basement in this design is relatively cheap square footage and brings the overall price per square foot down! Elaborate lofts and upper levels that require many dormers are an exception to this strategy.

"Keep construction expenses down by limiting the size of the footprint. Design upward not sideways and maintain the shape as much as possible through all levels."

​SELECTION STRATEGY #3: SMART FINISHES
​
Reducing finishes is a great way to bring down the budget but be aware that if the first two strategies are ignored then odds are the house will still be comparatively expensive regardless of selections.
I would define “smart” finishes as products that are cheaper and are at least as functional as their more expensive alternatives.

Reduce Flooring Costs. Hardwood floors add value and character to a home and in my opinion are good investments. If necessary, money can be saved by putting carpet in the bedrooms. Vinyl / linoleum is cheaper than tile and can be a good alternative for kitchens and bathroom floors. True hardwood floors and carpets are not a good choice in humid areas like in daylight basements—finished concrete or laminate flooring are cheaper and more appropriate options here.Reduce Brick, Stone, and Stucco. Brick and stone can be 4 times as expensive as other finishes. Be aware that cultured stone (synthetic) and real stone cost about the same. It is cheaper to apply stucco over block walls than it is wood frame walls. For this reason, I would recommend fiber-cement stucco panels over exterior walls if this look is desired- this will reduce construction and maintenance costs.Reduce Tile.Tile labor and materials costs quickly add up. Tile is typically used near plumbing appliances, like in kitchens and bathrooms, but ironically it's not the best material to repel water. Water can enter through weakened grout and damage subfloors, walls and framing without the owner even knowing it. Acrylic insert showers and tubs are superior when it comes to controlling water because they have fewer or no seams and they have the added benefit of being more affordable than custom tile work.
​For bathroom design, wood wainscots are cheaper than tile wainscots.
Another cost saving idea is to opt for the matching 4” backsplash that comes with most countertops rather than paying for a separate 18" tile backsplash.

Expensive materials.

Reduce Countertop costs. I do not like the cheapest option which is laminate countertops- water and wood fibers are not a good combination. A laminate countertop could become worthless in 5 years with careless use. Solid surface (plastic) or entry-level quartz or granite are the most functional and maintenance free options for the money which can be bought for as little as $50/sf. Be aware that if $100/sf or more is spent on countertops, the additional expense will not be recovered at re-sale.Reduce Masonry Fireplaces and Chimneys. Homeowners can noticeably reduce the budget by choosing a wood stove or a factory-built firebox insert over a masonry fireplace and chimney. A wood stove is a great heat source, easier to maintain and requires only a metal flue to exit the roof or the wall.If an open fireplace is a must, I would recommend a factory built firebox insert which saves the expense of building a masonry hearth, chimney and liner. A wood mantel and surround is cheaper than masonry. If the design demands it, builders can frame a wood ‘chimney’ above the roofline and side it with fiber-cement or wood siding. Stucco and masonry finishes are upgrades. Reduce Architectural Timbers, Trusses & Brackets. Although these details can be a key part of the mountain aesthetic be aware that they are rarely structural-- the true heavy lifting is performed by hidden standard framing. If the budget needs to come down homeowners can work with their architect and builder to choose a few select embellishments without breaking the bank.Reduce Custom-sized Windows. Custom-sized windows can be twice as expensive and may require twice the lead time as off-the-shelf windows. If the window package is pricey ask your builder to bid the project using standard sizes instead.

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The author Jason Bellamy is a Home Inspector, Builder and Residential Consultant.

More people are considering buying undeveloped land in the Asheville area to cope with limited inventory and rising costs. Buying land is a great option for knowledgeable buyers but it is also riskier and potentially more expensive than buying developed land. This article is broken up into the 3 Most Important Things to Look For when buying land in the area. This article is for potential landbuyers and real estate and construction professionals. Make sure you check out the Resources section at the bottom of the article and print out the Buncombe County Development Checklist (also provided).

#1: UTILITIES:

WITHIN CITY LIMITS:
The big advantage to buying a lot within city limits, aside from location, is that utilities are readily available and there can be big savings here.
There are some things to be aware of though. It is rare to find a good lot selling at a modest price in the city. Remaining lots are steep, odd-sized, and may contain un-compacted fill or garbage. Look carefully for easements on the land which are common in the city.
Here are some resources and typical costs for a 2000sf home in the city:
Utilities:City Sewer (MSD): There is an initial connection and monthly usage fee (about $3000 for typical home):City of Asheville Sewer tap (MSD)City Water: There is an initial connection and monthly usage fee (about $2600 for typical home):City of Asheville Water ApplicationGas (PSNC): If a lot is located in their service area generally they will connect the house for free if your water heater and/or furnace is a gas appliance. Check gas availability for your lot.Electricity (Progress):Initial connection is free within service area. The builder will need to work with Progress Engineer to establish temporary power during construction. Underground trenching for long distances may cost extra. Progress (Electricity) www.progress-energy.com (800) 452-2777

BEYOND SERVICE AREAS:Cheaper and larger lots can be found out of town but once a house is beyond service areas homeowners will have to provide their own water, septic system and gas. Well and septic permits must be applied for before receiving a construction permit. Developers beware: A percolation or 'perc' test will determine how well your site can handle sewage waste and may limit how many units can be built on the lot. This is important to know before buying a lot.
​Water (Well):Drilling a well for one house could cost $9-$15,000 depending how deep it must go before getting enough water flow. Most springs and rain water catchment systems will not be adequate for year round household water use.Electrical Service (Progress, French Broad Electric or other): Connections are generally free but Homeowners might have to pay for trenching for underground cable service- if the house is a quarter mile from the road this could get expensive. Speak with an engineer from your utility company. If they say you are responsible for trenching to the house speak with a grader for an estimate.Back-up Generator: Electrical service is less reliable in remote mountain areas in the Winter (just when you need it the most)-- homeowners in these areas may want to consider installing a back-up generator-- budget around $3000-$6000 with installation.Septic: A private septic system for a single family home might cost $4500-$7000. A grader or builder can give you an estimate.​Gas (Propane): If the lot is out of the PSNC service area then a propane tank must be purchased or rented. An above ground 500 gallon tank costs about $1450. Renting is only $75 a year except you will pay a higher rate for gas (as of writing $2.25/gallon for rented tanks and $1.81 if you own it. $1125 vs. $905 to fill) Southern States and Blossman are two big providers in the area.

#2: CLEARING, DRIVEWAY, GRADING & EXCAVATIONOur mountainous terrain drives up construction costs. It’s simply more expensive to build foundations on a sloping site made of rock and clay than it is on flat sandy sites.In order to understand why grading is so unpredictable and expensive in the mountains we need to understand what is underneath the surface-- springs, red clay, fill, rock, organic matter, stumps, and other unsuitable soils. The mountains are pretty, but they’re unforgiving-- especially to builders. The more area a development plan covers, the more a project opens itself up to surprises and expenses! Your best resources here are geotechnical engineers, builders and graders who can give you information and estimates about potential costs. An undeveloped lot will usually require the following items:
​Clearing:Trees will be cut, stumps removed, rocks broken up and soil trucked off site. The more earth that is disturbed the pricier it will be.Driveways, Parking & Turn-around areas: Driveways must be properly compacted on suitable soil with a gentle slope and proper drainage. Road bond and gravel may not be an option for steeper driveways- asphalt is more expensive and concrete is more expensive still. Remote houses need a parking and turn-around area as well. Mountain driveways may require culverts or even bridges. Driveways can be built cheaply or built to last but they must also be maintained. What will they be like in the snow or ice? Many people don’t realize the impossibility of carving out a 1/4 mile driveway up a hill and scratching out a house seat without encountering unpleasant surprises.Retaining walls:Any flat area surrounding a house on a steeper site will likely require retaining walls-- and they are very expensive!​House Foundation:On steep sites engineers and surveyors should be employed to find the best location for the house. Many house plans will have to go back to an architect for revisions. A good geotechnical engineer should be hired in almost all cases-- even then surprises below the surface will happen. It is very rare that houses are built on slab-on-grade foundations like in Florida. Foundations in the mountains require footings and foundation walls that are strong enough to retain soil. The walls have to be waterproofed. The surrounding area must grade away from the house for proper drainage. If the site is very steep the house will require an engineered foundation which will mean thicker blocks and footings, more steel and concrete or even a poured concrete foundation.

#3: EASEMENTS, PERMITS & ZONINGAt the bottom of this article there is a Development Checklist provided by Buncombe County and it is a great resource for people who want to buy undeveloped land.

There are generally less restrictions in the Asheville area compared to the Northeast or West Coast but buyers from neighboring Georgia, South Carolina and Kentucky may find our regulations and zoning more restrictive.

​Easements are rights to your land that have been sold or given to other parties. A utility company may have an easement on a property that restricts the homeowner from building on a restricted area of the lot.. A homeowner may not be able to fence their property because of shared driveway easements with their neighbors.There are also properties that appear to have water or driveway access but they may not in fact convey to the buyer. Many times neighbors will share the expense of utilities like a well. Casual agreements must be verified or permanently negotiated before the purchase.

Zoning
Check for flood zones or hazardous waste sites. In all cases potential land buyers should speak with a city or town planner and check the zoning maps and restrictions first- nothing should be assumed. The sensitive homeowner may discover the lot they are interested is zoned to allow slaughterhouses and dog kennels in the neighborhood-- not an ideal designation for sensitive people. The investor may discover that the zoning requires that their lot have 100 feet of street frontage before they can subdivide the lot the way they want to. Make sure the zoning and restrictions will allow you to achieve your goals. See the Development Checklist at the bottom of this article.

RESOURCES

Asheville (City) Development Services:This is the city planning office which is located downtown. It’s best to go in person and talk to them if possible. They can usually see you within 20 minutes of arriving without an appointment.828-259-5946 -- 161 S. Charlotte St. Asheville 28801

Buncombe County Planning & DevelopmentThe county office is also located downtown nearby. If the lot is located within Buncombe county but outside city limitsthis is the place to go. 46 Valley St. -- 828-250-4830

The GIS:The Buncombe County GISis a great free resource for land buyers in the area. This site has maps and filters for easements, flood zones, utilities, zoning and more. Talk with your town or city planning department-- usually they are very helpful.

Real estate agents:may have access to plats, deeds, surveys and other information or can make referrals.

Your Builder:If you have committed to a builder, schedule a site visit to discuss construction concerns and costs. If not, you may need to pay a builder, grader or consultant like myself hourly to help you.

Builder Buddy Consulting That's me! I am a pre-construction planner, estimator and consultant and can assist your builder, real estate agent and architect efficiently achieve your goals. 828 335 3930. Jason@builderbuddyonline.com www.builderbuddyonline.com
​Geotechnical Engineer/ Surveyors:It may be worth it to have a geotechnical survey done before purchasing the property. They can check for suitability of the soil for the foundation and anticipate rock, springs, and other possible surprises.​Neighbors: Talk to neighbors about driveways access, shared utilities or any other potential issues.

​

Author

Jason Bellamy is a Licensed Home Inspector and Residential Consultant in the Asheville area.

​The above picture is taken from my parents’ 200 year old farm house on Cape Cod (http://www.saturdayfarm.com/). The original panes have a unique character as gravity has taken hold of the glass over the centuries. My parents say they will never replace them. In many historic districts (like the Montford District here in Asheville) there are rules that limit homeowners from changing or upgrading their windows. For owners of historic homes storm windows might be the best way to keep their houses more thermally efficient.
These storm windows need to be monitored and adjusted throughout the year. The weep holes need to be kept open (not painted shut!) to allow the condensate to exit without damaging the wood. Sometimes the storm windows need to be opened or removed for ventilation depending on the time of the year.
Storm windows are not ideal but in historic homes with regular maintenance and monitoring they are a perfectly good solution.
The picture below is from a house I inspected last week. It was built in 1995. The windows don’t have any historical value. They are cheap single pane windows. In this example, storm windows were installed on the INSIDE of the house in order to keep the house warmer. Let’s look closer:

​When the cold air passes through the thin outside window and hits the warm air of the inside storm window CONDENSATION results, but this time INSIDE the house. You can see the damage from the moisture in the picture below. Also if you want to open the window you have to open the storm window first. This is not ideal.
Storm windows are only perfect for historical homes. In other homes storm windows may be cheaper to install but i would rather have 1 new double pane window than 2 storm windows over single pane windows.
In this house, if it can be afforded, all the windows should be replaced and the storm windows permanently removed.

​This bell-shaped piece of styrofoam with a strap cost me $1.99 but it could save me hundreds of dollars over the next couple of years.We're in the South but in the mountains of the Asheville area cold fronts can bring temperatures that are well below freezing. This is cold enough to burst your pipes. The pipes that are most vulnerable are the exterior faucets. If the valve stem of your faucets burst inside the wall cavity of your house and you don’t know it, the repair could cost North of a $1000 dollars. It’s more common than you think and that’s why people talk about “burst pipes” with dread. We are not immune to burst pipes in the Asheville area.Come November you should remove the hoses from your faucets and install this bell-shaped faucet cover to insulate and protect your pipes from bursting.

My neighbors Matt and Candra have a classic bungalow in Historic West Asheville and last Summer they were looking to replace their asphalt shingle roof. They preferred the look of a metal roof and they wanted to harvest their rain water with a catchment system (metal roofs are better for rain catchment systems because they don't shed ballast, asphalt and fiberglass fibers into the water tanks like asphalt shingles).

They received several estimates and considered 3 different options:1) Asphalt Shingle roofPrice: $5000.Life Expectancy: About 20 years. Pros: Reasonably priced. Fairly reliable.Cons: Not the look they wanted. Not ideal for rain catchment systems.

2) Standing Seam Metal roof.Price: $15,000Life expectancy: 35-40 years! Pros: Very attractive, with the longest life expectancy. Good for water catchment.Cons: Twice as expensive as other options!

3) Exposed Fastener Metal roof.Price: $5000Life expectancy: 10-35 yearsPros: Attractive and affordable. Good for water catchment.Cons: Un-predictable life expectancy with a mixed reputation depending on which professional you talked to.

Matt kept thinking about the Exposed Fastener Metal Roof (Option #3). This is also called a “fasten down” roof because the screws are fastened right through the metal panels into the roof sheathing. The critics of this roof say that during the freeze/thaw cycle the metal panels move and corrode around the screws where the water can enter. Some of the roofing contractors Matt talked to refused to install them because of call-backs. ​

Matt was about to give up on the Exposed Fastener roof when he spoke with Asheville Roofing Contractor Francisco Luna who said that the Exposed Fastener Metal Roof was his favorite option for the money but it had to be installed correctly. Francisco's crew pre-drills holes into the crimps of the panels. The crimps are the high points of the panels so if there is corrosion around the screws over time, it is unlikely that water will get under the panels (see diagram below). He said that if the panels are fastened at the crimps instead of the flat areas homeowners can expect an extra 10-20 years of life expectancy.

This was a bold claim but it made sense. This was also consistent with my experience in living in Central America where tin roofs are very common. The metal roofing panels were ALWAYS fastened through the high points, not the troughs. I looked through several installation guides for these products and I discovered that the best practice is to install the screws at the high points just like Francisco claimed. So why are so many roofers fastening the panels in the flat/low areas? The answer is upsetting. It's simply easier and faster to 'screw-down' the panels in the low areas because no pre-drilling is needed. This practice is convenient and profitable for the installers but a huge inconvenience for the homeowner when their roof leaks after 10 years!

After a lot of research, Matt and Candra decided on the Exposed Fastener Metal roof pre-drilled and fastened through the crimps (Installed by Francisco Luna’s crew. See photo below). It looks great and they are looking forward to 25-30 years of a solid roof over their heads.

Note: Metal Roofs get an even longer life expectancy when they are coated with a high quality paint and re-coated every 10 years or so.