Müncheners are disciples of loden; the wearing of the green is a Bavarian hirthright. r\.;'" A..... ... ..'j) .. . j ,...r:;; - ) -, ,-- '\ '\... "- ", , ..., tf} r.r C '"' U .... tf} tf} 0 '"' 1 u E IJ Road To Romance One of Europe's most enduring rewards of by-way travel is Germany's Romantic Road. [t is named for the Lat- inb who oncp controlled thi bygonp military route when a link between fortresses was necessary for survival. The (.(.hofs"" that are so charming today as coaching inns or pven as great metro- politan hotpls originally wprp walled for- tifications where travellers could pause and not be exposed to bandits and enemy patrols. For warmth. they slept undPT their carriages or horses. Later food and drink bpcamp available for purchase, and finally some rudp accom- modation was provided. Begin at Schwangau (southwest of Munich) site of the fairy tale palace of eccpntric King Ludwig. Each hamlet and town along the path seems to feature its own kuche (cake) most based on the Nürnberg classic called lebkuchen so redolent of baked spices and herbs. Thev make splendid gifts., staying fresh from six to eight weeks, which allows plenty of time for airmailing. The cli- max of any romp along the Romantic Road is certainly enchanted Rothenburg ob der Tauber. It's a theater-set town with belltowers., tilting half-timbered house . and mastpr craftprs plying thpir specialties in the windowpane frontages which line its twistin cobbled lanps. Strolling down the {Tntere Schmiedgassf' you can buy delightful inexpensive wax Lreation for wall dpco- rations: cherubs, plaques. musical themes floral designs., and animals. Surely the biggest single competitor to the toy factories of the North Pole can be found at Käthe Wohlfahrtis ( hri t- kindlmarkt. This unique pmporium is entirely dedicated to celebrating Christ- mas twelvp months a year. Step inside in July or August and immediately you are thrown into a time warp of mid- December. Tree ornaments, electric trains") marching soldiers") dolls that blink and curtsy, carols that waft upon the crystalline snow-buffed atmosphere conspire to make you remember the hol- idays. Thf' road continues to meander- f'ven romantically-on through 8 host of townlpts to W urzhurg and finally to the spa of Wiesbaden. Spoils: Cameras., fine porcelain., cut- lery, antiqup furniture., etchings, candles and wax tableaux., crystal") sportswear. ,r t\. T r f' bat f' va rip s fro m 6 - 1 4 0/ 0 depending on merchandise; minimum purchase 100 DM. 1 u <f) o 0:: - o , JJ <:.J .... 5 ð --