]]>Water smokers, box, barrel, and pellet smokers do a fine job smoking meats and seafood. But nothing establishes your street cred as pit master who means business like an offset smoker. For years, these hunka-hunka smokers—a.k.a., offset barrel smokers, horizontal smokers, pipe smokers, or “stick-burners”—have dominated the competition barbecue circuit. Now, thanks to mass-market models available at stores like Home Depot and Lowes, they’re bringing their own particular aura of machismo to American and European backyards.

The first offset smokers were likely built by oilfield workers in Texas and Oklahoma. Far from home and restaurants, it didn’t take much for barbecue-starved welders to look at surplus oil pipe and 55-gallon steel drums and see grills and smokers. They based the offset design on traditional brick barbecue pits where the fire is built in one chamber and the smoke and heat cross the food in another.

In the early 1980s, the price of oil dropped from $30 to $10 a barrel. Texas metal fabricator Wayne Whitworth, founder of an oil contract-dependent business in Houston, started building barbecue pits to keep his employees busy during the downturn. He called his smoker business “Pitt’s & Spitt’s”—today one of the most respected names in the offset smoker industry.

Most horizontal offset smokers have a similar construction—a lidded barrel-shaped or box-like smoking/cooking chamber with a firebox connected slightly lower to one end (hence the name “offset”) and a chimney rising from the other. In some models the firebox is in the back.

You build a wood or charcoal and wood-enhanced fire in the firebox, so the heat is next to (not directly under) the meat. The heat and smoke flow through a portal into the cook chamber where they circulate around the food and exit through the chimney. This flow of hot air and wood smoke is one of the defining features of the offset smoker, producing ribs and pork shoulders with deep red smoke rings and briskets with exceptionally crisp “bark” (crust).

You control the heat and smoke flow in an offset smoker—in theory, at least—by adjusting the air intake and exhaust vents. (Open vents mean more oxygen, which produces a hotter fire.) In practice, temperatures vary inside the cook chamber, with the end nearest the firebox being the hottest. So in addition to maintaining the fire, you also have to rotate the food or otherwise manage the airflow to avoid uneven cooking. The bigger the grill, the more pronounced the temperature disparity.

To equalize the internal cooking temperature, manufacturers have developed what is known as reverse flow technology. This sounds somewhat more complicated than it really is. One example is the convection plate found in popular smokers like the Horizon, manufactured in Oklahoma. This heavy perforated metal plate slides back and forth under the food on the grate in the smoke chamber with smaller air holes closer to the fire and larger holes further away. The position of the plate and holes help equalize the hot air flow.

A more sophisticated reverse flow technology system, developed by Lang BBQ Smokers of Nahunta, Georgia, uses internal piping, baffles, and a chimney mounted on the firebox end of the smoker. The hot air and smoke are forced to travel to the far end of the cook chamber before reversing course over the food grate and heading back toward the firebox and chimney. This not only equalizes side-to-side temperatures in the cook chamber, but helps retain heat when the lid is opened.

But even if your smoker lacks reverse flow technology, you can ensure even cooking simply by moving and rotating the food in the cook chamber. Start with the larger, fattier end of the brisket or pork shoulder towards the fire. Rotate the meat every hour or so, moving pieces that started at the cooler end of the cook chamber closer to the fire. This makes offset smokers a bit more labor intensive than set-it-and-forget-it pellet grills, but for many people—count me in—this is part of the fun. Smoking is as much sport as science, and this is where athletes of barbecue excel.

If you know how to build a fire, you know how to use an offset barrel smoker. For home use smokers, have the air intake vent and the chimney vent fully open. Start your charcoal (I prefer natural lump charcoal) in a chimney starter and spread the embers over the charcoal rack at the bottom of the firebox. Close the lid—make sure the cooking chamber lid is closed as well—and preheat the smoker to the desired temperature (usually between 225 to 275 degrees). If the temperature is too high, partially close the vents and allow the temperature to settle; if too low, add more charcoal. (Note: If the smoker is new, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for seasoning the smoker and burning off any factory grease or protective coatings before your first smoke session.)

Arrange the food on the grate in the cook chamber. Place soaked smoking wood chips or chunks (1 to 2 cups per hour depending on the size of the smoker) or small hardwood logs to the fire. Replenish the fuel and wood chips and manage the vents as needed to maintain the target temperature.

If you compete on the barbecue circuit regularly or own a restaurant or catering company, you probably own a larger offset smoker that burns “sticks” (wood) exclusively. Use seasoned hardwood logs and add them according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Note: When burning wood only, good airflow is essential so the smoke flavor doesn’t overpower the meat.

There are a lot of offset smokers out there—some excellent, some barely adequate. Do plenty of due diligence before buying. One good place to start is the Barbecue Board; our community has lots of experience with offset smokers and lots of strong opinions about which are best.

Factors to Consider When Buying an Offset Smoker
• Establish your budget. You can buy mass-marketed units for as little as $200 or drop $5000 or more on custom-built smokers.

• Is the smoker made of heavy-gauge (1/4 inch) steel? (This is the gold standard.) Does it look and feel substantial? Is the base (preferably wheeled) stable?

• How is the craftsmanship? Do the welds look strong? Are the handles insulated?

• Do the lids on the cooking chamber and the firebox seal well? How about the seal between the two chambers? (Sometimes, it’s difficult to tell until you’ve used the smoker, and by then, you’re committed.)

• Is the smoker big enough for your entertaining style? If you cook a whole hog once a month, you’ll need a very different smoker than if you smoke the occasional ribs or pork shoulder. In any case, I always recommend buying more grill or smoker than you think you’ll need—this will inspire you to stretch your imagination and grow your skill set.

• Don’t forget to consider the options, which may include extra grill grates, a removable charcoal drawer or rack, a counterweight on the cooking chamber lid, jerky smoking racks, a warming box, front or bottom shelves, a trailer, etc.

• Finally, how good is the warranty? Some higher-end units come with a lifetime warranty.

Advantages of Using an Offset Smoker (Over Other Smokers)
• You can stoke the fire or add wood chips, chunks, logs, or wood pellets without opening the cooking chamber.

• Most units can be used for direct grilling by installing a grill grate over the firebox. (Many units come with custom grill grates.)

• The large size of the cook chamber gives you the ability to smoke large quantities of food.

• There’s no electrical circuitry to burn out or moving parts to replace.

Disadvantages of Using an Offset Smoker
• The market is flooded with inexpensive and poorly built units that have the potential to put the most well-intentioned people off offset smokers forever. Hinges break, paint flakes, metal rusts, and target temperatures are difficult to maintain. Some assembly is usually required.

• The entry-level cost is relatively high for well-constructed units, $1000 or more.

• It can take up to an hour for your pit to preheat. After that, you’ll need to check on it frequently. Not practical for an after-work cookout.

• Even modest-size offset smokers can weigh hundreds of pounds, making them difficult to maneuver (or trailer) without assistance.

• Smoker performance can be affected by windy, rainy, or cold weather conditions.

• Offset smokers have a fairly large footprint, making them impractical for people with limited outdoor space.

• Building and maintaining a steady fire requires dedication, patience, and most of all, practice. Lots of practice. Like I said: it’s a sport.

Recommended Brands
Because the price range is so broad, I’ve grouped selected manufacturers into three tiers. Know that some manufacturers straddle price ranges.

Problem:After just a couple of years, my inexpensive offset smoker is beginning to rust and the grill grate looks pretty rough.Solution: Sand the rust spots with steel wool and repaint the affected areas with high-temperature paint. As for the grill grate, replace it or have it sand-blasted at a machine or automotive repair shop.

Problem: Smoke leaks from the lid of the cooking chamber and firebox.Solution: Seal the lids with high temperature silicone or high temperature gasket by the roll. The gasket made by Nomex, for example, is rated to 800 degrees F.

Problem: It’s a struggle to maintain the proper heat when temperatures dip.Solution: There are a couple of options here: 1) Line the bottom of the smoker with firebrick before preheating the smoker. 2) Throw a non-fiberglass welder’s blanket or space blanket over the lid of the cooking chamber during the cook. Some manufacturers sell special insulated blankets for their cookers.

Problem: I’m hosting a big family party soon and want to smoke pork spare ribs, but my grill grate isn’t large enough to accommodate the number of racks I’ll need.Solution: Invest in a rib rack or two. (I’m partial to my own Best of Barbecue Ultimate Rib Rack.) Or coil each rack of ribs after seasoning and secure with bamboo skewers. Stand the coils upright on the grill grate. They’ll take up less real estate that way.

Problem: The temperature varies significantly from one side of the smoker to the other.Solution: You can improvise a poor man’s heat deflector by installing a baffle made of sheet metal or even a cookie sheet. The short side should be attached right above the firebox portal (use a self-setting screw), and angled downward toward the opposite side of the cooking chamber. You can rest the bottom of it on firebricks. The objective is to force the heat and smoke downward, thereby minimizing the temperature differential. Or simply put an aluminum baking pan directly on the grill grate next to the firebox. Fill it with water or beer once the smoker’s up to temperature. It will keep the smoking environment (and your food) moist and reduce the temperature near the firebox.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/25/guide-offset-barrel-smokers/feed/1Battle of the Hibachishttp://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/21/battle-hibachis-konro/
http://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/21/battle-hibachis-konro/#commentsMon, 21 Jul 2014 23:21:50 +0000http://barbecuebible.com/?p=7303It’s the antithesis of the modern North American stainless steel super grill (you know, that propane-fired monster with multiple heat zones, infrared sear station and industrial strength rotisserie). But when […]

]]>It’s the antithesis of the modern North American stainless steel super grill (you know, that propane-fired monster with multiple heat zones, infrared sear station and industrial strength rotisserie).

But when it comes to providing maximum grilling efficiency in minimal space, few grills can beat its direct, concentrated, blast-furnace heat.

It’s the compact Japanese-style tabletop grill known in the West as the hibachi. Without it there would be no yakitori or robatayaki.

Perhaps you owned one when you were in college or installed one on the fire escape or balcony of your first apartment. If money and space were tight, your first grilling experience may well have taken place on a hibachi. (Hey, you never forget your first time.)

For me—having been born in Japan—the hibachi is more than a nostalgic icon. It reminds us how uncomplicated and elemental grilling can be, requiring little more than a vessel to hold and channel the fire, and vents to control the airflow, and thus the heat.

The first hibachis (the word means “fire bowl”) were used for indoor heating and for warming water. By the 8th century A.D. you could find hibachis carved from cypress wood and lined with clay. These gave way to ornamental porcelain or ceramic models, which in turn have become the sleek firebrick and steel hibachis used today.

Curiously, in Japan you won’t hear the term hibachi used for a grill. The Japanese prefer the terms shichirin or konro. (The former takes its name from the Japanese words for “seven rin”—the archaic cost of a batch of cooking charcoal.) Traditional models resembled large round flowerpots. The best were made from volcanic diatomaceous earth—unsurpassed for retaining and dispersing the heat. Modern yakitori parlors use long, slender, rectangular grills fabricated from firebrick or ceramic. Some come with wire mesh grates (tightly woven to keep small foods from falling into the fire).

But in Japan, most have no grates. They rely on a metal bar running the length of the firebox to support the ends of the yakitori and other kebabs. The bare portion of the skewer hangs over the edge, which keeps the bamboo from burning. The finest yakitori parlors use hard, super-premium, super-hot burning charcoal called binchotan. This, aerated with an electric fan, enables the grill master to achieve grilling temperatures as high as 1000 degrees F.

When Japanese-style tabletop grilling came to North America, the grills lost their traditional name (shichirin) and were marketed as hibachis, which was easier for the Western tongue to pronounce. Or maybe it was just a classic case of lost in translation.

In any case, hibachi became the common term in the West. And now, it seems more and more people are rediscovering this remarkably efficient little grill.

American-made hibachis differ in one key way from traditional Japanese shichirin (also called konro) grills. We fabricate them from metal—typically cast iron. With hibachis, as in so much in life, you get what you pay for. Cheap metal hibachis made in China tend to break or wear out after a couple uses.

At a recent session of Barbecue University, we had an opportunity to test drive Japanese and American hibachis side by side. May the best grill win.

The Korin Konro ($335): Most of our students had never seen a traditional Japanese hibachi. Made of light-colored firebrick and reinforced with black metal corners, this one has three sliding vents near the bottom for heat control and wire mesh grill grates. Wire-wrapped handles make it transportable. One student commented that it looked like “a macho window box.”

Provided by the New York-based importer of Japanese culinary products, Korin, along with some genuine binchotan charcoal, the grill burned clean and blisteringly hot as advertised, and made quick work of our spice-rubbed New Shrimp Cocktail. It produces almost equally awesome results with North American natural lump charcoal. On account of its slender firebox, it’s best suited to yakitori and other tiny kebabs. You can order this konro from Korin.

The Lodge Sportsman ($95): For years, we’ve been using a heavy, sturdy, squat hibachi made of pre-seasoned cast iron right here in the U.S. by the Lodge Manufacturing Company of South Pittsburg, Tennessee. (The company is best known for its cast iron skillets and Dutch ovens.) The Sportsman, as it’s called, has several ingenious features, including a sliding draft door to allow you to regulate the heat. Fresh coals can be added via a drop-down chute. The grill grate (also cast iron) adjusts to two positions. It comes with a handy bale (handle), making it easier to transport (of course, it does weigh 40 pounds).

If properly maintained, this rugged little grill will last a lifetime. (That means oiling the grill after use and storing it in a dry place indoors.) When I have a party, I like to line up several Lodge hibachis on the tables to keep food warm or let guests grill their own yakitori and sates. Available on Amazon.

The Kotai Grill Hibachi: Manufactured in my hometown, Baltimore, the Kotai combines the long, slender shape of a traditional Japanese hibachi with the heavy metal firebox of the Lodge Sportsman. Each heavy, handsome grill is welded by hand. The cost is $475 to $800, depending on the size. For more information, go to the Kotai website.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/21/battle-hibachis-konro/feed/1Stick Meat—The Ultimate Guide to Kebabshttp://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/04/kebabs/
http://barbecuebible.com/2014/07/04/kebabs/#commentsFri, 04 Jul 2014 13:00:53 +0000http://barbecuebible.com/?p=7182Guest blogger Paula Marcoux—a former culinary historian at Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts—recently published a fascinating book on live fire cooking around the world called Cooking with Fire. It’s certainly one […]

]]>Guest blogger Paula Marcoux—a former culinary historian at Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts—recently published a fascinating book on live fire cooking around the world called Cooking with Fire. It’s certainly one of my top ten grill books of the year. I asked Paula to share her thoughts about one of the world’s most ancient and universal grilled dishes: kebabs.

-Steven

One of the sweetest cooking tools I’ve ever seen is an earthenware kebab holder, really a pair of little pottery firedogs, made to support meat-bearing skewers over hot coals. From the ridges meant to hold the kebabs just so, to the holes perforating the sides to allow proper airflow to the embers, to the cute little animal head finials, this unit is ideally designed for its job. The potter even thoughtfully provided lug handles on the cool outer face of each support for easy maneuvering. Where can you get yours? Well, this one is in a museum case in Crete, after spending 3,700 years under volcanic ash at the ancient Minoan site of Akrotiri. That’s right—it’s 3,700 years old! And people have been enjoying kebabs a lot longer than that.

Akrotiri Terracotta Firedogs

It’s clear why kebabs are persistently popular—they’re delicious, versatile, and economical. By showing a lot of surface area to high heat, the kebab’s uniformly cut bits of meat, fish, or vegetables cook quickly and develop great seared flavor. All that exposed perimeter also makes for even seasoning and the transfer of complementary flavors between foods.

Historians peg Central Asia as the kebab’s homeland and today every region, every village, it seems, has a signature treatment, many stepping outside of stereotypical kebab boundaries. This vast range includes finely minced seasoned meat applied around a flat sword-like skewer, slices from a stack of lamb and lamb fat roasting on a spit, and even lamb and fixings sealed and ember-baked in a clay pot. I loved every kebab I ate in central Turkey, finding the variations in plating and garnishing mind-boggling and fiendishly delicious. The sizzling meat arrived at the table on large pebbly-textured flatbreads with contrasting sauces involving garlicky yogurt, simmered tomatoes, and butter infused with sumac or Aleppo pepper or dried mint.

Today, kebabs are truly global—from lemon and garlic marinated chicken hearts in Brazil, to shallot, chile, and soy inflected mutton satay in Indonesia. Whatever flavor-principle draws you, here are a few technical pointers to set you on the path to enjoying your own kebab tradition.

Making kebabs is an opportunity to impose order on otherwise unruly pieces of meat and oddly shaped vegetables. The neatness is not for its own sake, but rather sets you up for the best results.

Some Middle Eastern street vendors prep and assemble their ingredients into an almost perfectly smooth cylinder, all plumb and level, as if the kebab were a stacked sausage without a casing. I love and admire those.

I set up my kebabs to facilitate the effects I most look for in grilled food—deeply browned crisp edges and a tender juicy interior. So I cut the meat into little pyramid-shaped pieces to create a lot of edges, trim paired vegetables to a similar size, and alternate them on skewers pretty evenly.

Many street purveyors throughout the Middle East and Asia use a box-like metal brazier that functions pretty much exactly like the ancient ceramic model from Akrotiri, but you don’t have to follow the Minoan tradition to make perfect kebabs at home. Turns out that a comparatively recent invention—the iron grill—works just fine to hold them an advantageous distance from hardwood coals.

Build a fire in a fire pit, kettle grill or hibachi; burn a pile of hardwood sticks or split wood down to coals, then spread them out. Place a grill grate over, about 2 inches or so from the hot coals. Allow it to get good and hot and give it a thorough going-over with a wire brush, then a quick wipe with a rag.

Pop the skewers over the heat and crisp up on all sides. At this point they’re probably close to done, but peek inside one to check to see if it’s how you like it.

You can of course just serve the kebabs on the skewers they came in on, but there are other options, here, too. If I look around and see that the population of the party has swelled, while the number of skewers has remained static, I make sure to have a grain salad or pilaf, then push the kebabs off the skewers onto that carbohydrate bed.

Another trick is to grill some slices of rustic bread, rub it with garlic, and cut it into cubes. Toss with the de-skewered kebabs, along with a pile of chopped vegetables and herbs, a squeeze of citrus and a lashing of olive oil.

And to further facilitate your kebab making, check out these useful products in the Barbecue Bible store:

]]>Today is Valentine’s Day. I’m giving my wife a heart-shaped card (or at least a card decorated with hearts). If I’m smart, I’ll throw in a heart-shaped box of chocolates.

The one thing I won’t do is serve her a dish that’s a barbecue icon in Peru and Bolivia, and that’s turning up grilled, or otherwise, served at an increasing number of cutting-edge restaurants in North America. I’m referring to beef, veal, lamb, and chicken hearts.

Exhibit #2. The Venison Heart Tartare served with wild herbs at The Willows Inn on Lummi Island in Puget Sound.

Exhibit #3. Chicago restaurants The Bristol and Frontier have featured beef heart pastrami and lamb heart grilled on sugarcane, respectively, on their menus.

Exhibit #4. The spit-roasted chicken hearts (called “curação”) served at any authentic Brazilian churrascaria (grill house), such as the Rodizio Grill with multiple locations nationwide.

Which brings me to the grandest grilled heart dish of all: anticuchos.

Picture this. You’ve just finished a night of club hopping in Lima or Cuzco. Your head spins (the result of pisco sours and the high altitude)—you desperately need some sustenance. You follow the scent of smoke and grilled meat to one of the innumerable pushcarts lined up late at night on Peru’s sidewalks and street corners and order what might be described as steak and potatoes on a stick.

When the Conquistadors arrived in Peru, the Incas had been enjoying anticuchos for centuries. The name came from the Quechua word anticuchu (“mountain cut,” literally), or perhaps anti-uchu (“mixture”). The traditional meat was llama.

The Spanish adopted the Inca kebabs, adding such European flavorings as vinegar, garlic, and cumin, and using the newly imported steer for the meat. The use of beef heart for anticuchos may have originated with the African slaves, brought to Peru to work the mines and plantations and fed the innards and other parts of the cattle the Spanish elite disdained to eat.

To be strictly authentic, you need to know about two special ingredients: aji panca and beef hearts. The former is a rust-red, medium-hot Peruvian chile that tastes like a cross between Hungarian hot paprika and Mexican chipotle. Either chile or a combination of the two can be used as a substitute. Aji panca and another Peruvuan chile, aji amarillo (yellow chile, literally) are sold fresh in Peru and are available frozen, dried, and in paste form in North America. Note: Look for them at Peruvian and Hispanic markets, or online, or follow the suggested substitutions.

As for beef hearts, they’re much prized by Peruvians and Bolivians and generally reviled by everyone else. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can likely find beef hearts at ethnic meat markets or by special order from your local butcher. One interesting alternative would be to use chicken hearts, which coincidentally, are popular at Brazilian churrascarias. If all this sounds a little too weird, a robust cut of beef, like sirloin, will give you the anticucho taste and mouthfeel—without the “ick” factor. Of course, you could go uptown, with a more tender cut, like rib eye or even beef tenderloin.

Finally, most Peruvian grill masters would roast and grind whole cumin seeds, but if you’re in a hurry, you can use ground cumin without too much sacrifice in taste.

So this Valentine’s Day, show some heart. Literally.

Have your own heart recipes and photos? Or other Valentine’s Day ideas? Share them with the community on the Barbecue Board.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2014/02/14/valentines-day-heart/feed/1The Raichlen Thanksgiving Menuhttp://barbecuebible.com/2013/11/12/raichlen-thanksgiving-menu/
http://barbecuebible.com/2013/11/12/raichlen-thanksgiving-menu/#commentsTue, 12 Nov 2013 19:27:28 +0000http://barbecuebible.com/?p=5019Talk about irony. Ever wondered how turkey, that centerpiece of the American Thanksgiving feast, came to be named for a Muslim country in the Near East? Turkey was, indeed, native […]

]]>Talk about irony. Ever wondered how turkey, that centerpiece of the American Thanksgiving feast, came to be named for a Muslim country in the Near East?

Turkey was, indeed, native to the Americas—hunted in the wild by Massachusetts Indian tribes and domesticated on the Yucatan Peninsula by the Mayans. But when it came to marketing this New World food in Europe, the 17th century explorers and merchants named it for what had been a source of exotic foods and luxury goods for centuries: Turkey. Istanbul had the cachet of a global food market the way Paris or New York does today.

Further confusing the etymological origins of the word “turkey” is the fact that in many countries, the holiday bird was believed to be from India. No one had iPhones or GPS systems back then, of course, and the early explorers of the New World mistook the Americas for the eastern coast of Asia. Consequently, if you are an ex-pat living abroad and trying desperately to line up a turkey for November 28, here’s how to ask for your holiday bird:

• In France, say dinde, an abbreviation of “chicken from India.”
• In Holland, call it kalkoeri, a corruption of Calcutta.
• In Norway, say kalkun—another reference to Calcutta.
• As for Turkey (the country), you’d ask for hindi, the local term for India.

Here in the U.S., it’s appropriate we eat turkey on Thanksgiving. This is our most ecumenical holiday and it never imposes ethnic, religious, or political boundaries. Everyone is invited to celebrate in his own way. And everyone does.

Which brings me to the Raichlen 2013 Thanksgiving menu, which takes ecumenical to the next level. We start with a pumpkin dip inspired by one of my favorite Kurdish restaurants in Istanbul. The main course harks back to my student days in Paris where I learned to stuff a whole turkey with truffles and butter under the skin. Grill the turkey using the indirect method, basting well with the pan juices. The grilled onions take a page from Italy’s playbook (a sweet-sour filling of honey and balsamic vinegar), while the cranberry salsa pulses to a Latin beat. Dessert offers a barbecue country twist on an American classic: smoke-roasted apple crisp.

Need more recipes from around the globe this Thanksgiving? Check out the ideas in Planet Barbecue for meals that can spice up your holiday.

If your holiday feast breaks down international boundaries, send details and photos to the Barbecue Board.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2013/11/12/raichlen-thanksgiving-menu/feed/0Raichlen on Regional-Style Ribs!http://barbecuebible.com/2013/06/21/raichlen-on-regional-style-ribs/
http://barbecuebible.com/2013/06/21/raichlen-on-regional-style-ribs/#commentsFri, 21 Jun 2013 01:59:46 +0000http://barbecuebible.com/?p=2473You might think that a rib is a rib is a rib — throw enough spice and wood smoke in its general direction, and you’ll wind up with respectable bones. […]

]]>You might think that a rib is a rib is a rib — throw enough spice and wood smoke in its general direction, and you’ll wind up with respectable bones. The fact is that, while cooking ribs is not complicated, there’s an enormous amount of technique, tradition, lore, and yes, science behind preparing the perfect bones. (And with these 22 rib tips, you too can up your game with slabs and bones!)

Ribs possess many advantages. They offer gnawable bones that provide structure and flavor, presenting a broad surface to the smoke and fire. The meat is well-marbled and rich-tasting with a price that remains relatively affordable — especially when compared to steak. They’re also versatile: All the major meats types come in rib form, from the ubiquitous pork and beef to the more rarified lamb, veal, and bison. Ribs can be cooked using a myriad of methods, from direct and indirect grilling to smoking and even spit-roasting. (You’ll find the latter at Brazilian-American rotisserie restaurants, like Fogo de Chao.) Many pit masters use multiple methods — smoking the ribs for several hours first, for example, then flash-searing the sauce onto the meat directly over a hot fire.

Even rib portion sizes vary widely, from the paper-thin strips of kalbi-kui (beef short ribs) direct grilled on charcoal braziers at Korea town restaurants to the plate-burying slabs we’ve come to expect from barbecue joints in Memphis and Kansas City.

But most of all, ribs are just plain fun to eat, evoking a primal memory of when our cave-dwelling ancestors roasted huge hunks of meats over campfires, ripping them apart with their bare hands. Admit it, part of the pleasure of ribs is that you get to eat them with your fingers.

But which rib? As with so much in barbecue, there are striking regional differences — the merits of which partisans argue with a ferocity once reserved for religious disputes.

If you come from Memphis, for example, your notion of ribs was probably shaped by a landmark restaurant called Rendezvous, where Greek immigrant Charlie Vergos grilled top loin ribs (a.k.a. baby backs) high over charcoal briquettes, swabbing the cooked racks with vinegar prior to sprinkling them thickly with spice rub. Thus was born the “dry rub” rib, which is unique in the annals of American barbecue. Said rub contains paprika, chili powder, oregano, and mustard, and unlike most American barbecue rubs, it’s not in the least bit sweet. Notice I said “grilled,” not “smoked”: The Rendezvous uses no wood in cooking its ribs — the flavor comes from the spices — and meat juices sizzling on the coals.

If Kansas City is home, your idea of ribs is probably epitomized by the sweet smoky spareribs at Oklahoma Joe’s. Kansas Citizens typically use a three-step process: first a spice rub goes on the uncooked ribs (which may or not may not be marinated overnight before cooking). The ribs are heavily smoked at a low temperature for 4 to 8 in a pit fired with apple or hickory. The last step involves glazing the slabs with the sort of sweet smoky red condiment that most Americans have come to think of as “barbecue sauce.” Of all American barbecue, Kansas City is the most heavily smoked — a reminder of the vast woodlands that once surrounded the city.

Baby back ribs (cut from the back of the hog) are the quickest cooking and most tender, while spare ribs (cut from the side of the hog) are fatter, meatier, tougher, and many say more flavorful. Suppose you could combine the meatiness of a latter with the convenience and lusciousness of the former. Our next stop is St. Louis, where butchers created a trimmed center-cut spare rib that looks and cooks like a baby back.

Curiously, the most famous St. Louis rib joint, Pappy’s Smokehouse serves top loin (baby back), not St. Louis cut ribs, but according to smoke-master Skip Steele (picturedabove, with Mike “Pappy” Emerson), St. Louis cut ribs will headline their new restaurant, Adam’s, scheduled to open next month. These ribs will involve a five-step process: first a rub, then a mustard-based marinade, the smoking, then glazing, and finally, a blast with a blowtorch to crisp the ribs at the end. Talk about complex.

Of course to a Texan, the best ribs don’t come from a hog at all, but a steer. Picture a giant beef rib seasoned with little more than salt and pepper and smoke-roasted in a pit fueled with post oak. Some people call them dinosaur bones. John Lewis calls them beef chuck short ribs and has made these monsters one of the specialties of his Austin eatery, La Barbecue Cuisine Texicana. In New York you should try the salt and pepper beef ribs — again so huge that one makes a meal — at Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue in NYC’s East Village.

Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue

Which brings us to a delectable if often overlooked slab — lamb ribs. Cut from the sheep’s underbelly, lamb ribs are generously marbled, which makes them, when properly cooked, meltingly tender and rich tasting. Lamb ribs often go by the name “Denver cut ribs,” but I’d be hard pressed to tell you where to find them in the Mile High City. Instead, head for Podnah’s Pit, in Portland, Oregon, where lamb ribs are seasoned with chili powder and cumin and slow smoked for four hours — but only on Thursday night.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2013/06/21/raichlen-on-regional-style-ribs/feed/0Filipino Sattihttp://barbecuebible.com/2013/04/24/filipino-satti/
http://barbecuebible.com/2013/04/24/filipino-satti/#commentsWed, 24 Apr 2013 12:54:59 +0000http://barbecuebible.com.erlbaum.net/?p=1187The following guest blog is from our friend Alex Paman, an avid griller and aspiring cookbook author who is currently working on a book on iconic dishes of the Philippines. […]

]]>The following guest blog is from our friend Alex Paman, an avid griller and aspiring cookbook author who is currently working on a book on iconic dishes of the Philippines. The above photo is courtesy of his fiance, Aira Baning. Below are three of my own satay tips.

The word “satay,” used to describe meats skewered on bamboo sticks, is a regional term that is specific to Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia. That term is generally not used in the Philippines, however, where skewered proteins are known by other names. The exception to this is on the island of Mindanao in the Southern Philippines, which is culturally closer to Malaysia.

Satti, found in the city of Zamboanga, is a dish that consists of skewered chicken and beef—that sits in a bowl of spicy sauce filled with clumps of rice cooked in palm leaf pouches. Recipes are well-kept family secrets and are passed down from generation to generation. Satti is only available in restaurants from the region of the archipelago, but may eventually find its way to Manila in the near future.

Below are the promised satay tips:

Make a grill shield: Fold a 12 by 18 inch piece of aluminum foil into thirds like a business letter, and slip it under the exposed ends of the skewers to keep them from burning.

Use an improvised brush made of fresh lemongrass to baste the satays as they cook.

Serve a flavorful Asian-inspired dipping sauce alongside the grilled satay, such as the Creamy Asian Peanut Sauce on page 18 of my book Planet Barbecue.

]]>http://barbecuebible.com/2013/04/24/filipino-satti/feed/0Tools of the Trade: Hasty-Bakehttp://barbecuebible.com/2013/04/05/tools-trade-hasty-bake/
http://barbecuebible.com/2013/04/05/tools-trade-hasty-bake/#commentsFri, 05 Apr 2013 02:43:50 +0000http://barbecuebible.com.erlbaum.net/?p=1216We’re starting a new series in which we look at American and international barbecue grills and smokers. In the annals of American barbecue grills, the Oklahoma-built Hasty-Bake is one of […]

]]>We’re starting a new series in which we look at American and international barbecue grills and smokers.

In the annals of American barbecue grills, the Oklahoma-built Hasty-Bake is one of the most singular cookers ever built. The design has changed little from the days when Grant Hastings first founded the company in 1948: an adjustable charcoal shelf beneath a glass-fronted firebox. This enables you to cook at high heat, low heat, and everywhere in between.

One big Hasty-Bake enthusiast is Adam Myers of Burn Co. BBQ in Tulsa, Oklahoma. All the food in this perennially packed barbecue joint comes off a collection of Hasty-Bakes in the trailer smokehouse out back.

Have YOU ever used a Hasty-Bake? What do you like best about it? What do you use it for, and do you have any tips for coaxing out peak performance?

Above is a photo postcard from our friend Marc Meltonville who runs the Historic Kitchens program at Hampton Court Palace. Yes, back in the 17th century, you had to crank the spits by hand. You'll never taste better roast beef!

Above is a photo postcard from our friend Marc Meltonville who runs the Historic Kitchens program at Hampton Court Palace. Yes, back in the 17th century, you had to crank the spits by hand. You’ll never taste better roast beef!

So where does the term "barbecue" come from? In 1516, a Spanish explorer named Gonzalo Fernandez de Oviedo y Valdes encountered a band of Taino Indians cooking in this manner on the island of Hispanola--today, the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

So where does the term “barbecue” come from? In 1516, a Spanish explorer named Gonzalo Fernandez de Oviedo y Valdes encountered a band of Taino Indians cooking in this manner on the island of Hispanola–today, the Dominican Republic and Haiti.
Asked what they called the grill, they responded, “Barbacoa”. So the original meaning of the term barbacoa was, indeed, a grill. Note a couple of interesting things:
1. When your grill grate is made of wood, you have to position it high above the fire so it doesn’t burn.
2. In this position, you’re cooking with hot smoke as much as fire.
3. Hot smoke both flavors the fish and helps preserve it.
4. The term “barbecue” does not come from the French “de la barbe a la queue”–“from the beard to the tail”.
Stay tuned for more barbecue history lessons in the coming months.