belfast, ireland city guide

Today’s Belfast City Guide comes to us from Meagan Williamson, blogger at the Row House Nest and current resident in Belfast, Northern Ireland. Originally from Toronto, Canada, Meagan moved into a charming Irish row house (the inspiration for her blog) and now shares with us some of the many other charming details of this quaint Northern city. From the classic boutique B&Bs to historical pubs, Meagan paints a wonderful picture of Belfast for us. Thanks Meagan for this helpful guide! —Stephanie

Read more of the city guide after the jump…

Hello Design*Sponge readers! Today I am bringing you the inside scoop on my current home – Belfast, Northern Ireland. Although Belfast is technically classified as a city, it is much more like a bustling town. Like many cities in Ireland, it is relatively small and can be seen in a few days. Belfast has tons of great attractions for pretty much everyone: history buffs, foodies, families, politics junkies, sports fans, nature lovers and so forth.

A few general warnings: everything you have heard about the weather in Ireland is true. It’s unpredictable at best. Prepare yourself for all eventualities, such as rain, sun and wind. You won’t regret packing a good trench coat, rain-friendly shoes and an umbrella for this trip, I promise you. Do not let the weather deter you; do as the locals do and just get on with it.

In the past, Belfast and Northern Ireland in general have been associated with political troubles and turmoil. Thankfully, the city is safe nowadays, although there is still the occasional isolated incident and a few ‘no go’ neighbourhoods-wise (just better to be safe than sorry). Belfast has come a long way since ‘the Troubles’ and has plenty to offer visitors and locals alike. That said, Belfast is fascinating to some for its political history and I have just the thing for those wanting to satisfy their political thirst for information related to the Troubles.

The Black Cab tours are famous for showing visitors the best and the worst of Belfast. These politically focused cab tours give visitors a guided tour of the city geared at providing political, cultural and historical information relevant to different areas of town. Although I have never been on one of the tours myself, I have heard they are fascinating as long as you get a guide who is ‘on the fence’ and provides both sides of the story. Cab Tours NI has a very good reputation and charges a fair rate. Okay, with that out of the way, on with the city guide!

For those of you who are not into official tours and prefer to see the sights at their own pace, I suggest the Belfast iTour. You can go online, check out where each tour takes you and download what you want.

I would highly recommend that you try to see some of the areas surrounding the city for at least a day or two. Unfortunately, public transportation systems in and around Belfast are not fantastic at times, but it can work for you if you do your homework on schedules ahead of time. There are regular bus routes that serve outlying villages and towns. The beauty of a small city like Belfast is that you can escape the hustle and bustle and be in the countryside after a quick drive in any direction really! More rural parts of Northern Ireland are stunning and offer spectacular natural gems like the Strangford Lough, the Mourne Mountains, the Glens of Antrim, the Giant’s Causeway and the Fermanagh Lakelands. I recommend that you try your best to visit at least one of them, if not all.

If you are short on time and don’t have a rental car but would like to see a small County Down village in an afternoon, jump on the #15 Ulsterbus from Europa Bus Station for Saintfield. This small, picturesque village has a lovely main street and is home to the stunning National Trust property, Rowallane Gardens. Head over for a cup of tea and lunch at the Garden Kitchen teahouse and cafe. They serve up delicious treats that are made on the premises. Make sure you also check out the in-house potter, Matt Liddle, while you are Rowallane Gardens for a one-of-a-kind souvenir. After you soak up the beautiful gardens and have a bite to eat, walk into town to check out the antique shops and local businesses.

*A Google Map has been specially created to help you find all the wonderful gems I am sharing with you today.

The Merchant Hotel – Formerly a bank, the original building was constructed in 1857 in the heart of Belfast’s mercantile and commercial centre during the industrial boom. Its grand neoclassical features vaulted ceilings, opulent colours and fabrics make it a must-see even if you don’t stay here. The Merchant is also well known for their upscale afternoon tea, good pub food in the Cloth Ear in the evenings and a swinging jazz session in Berts on the weekends.

Maryvale House B & B – A boutique B&B, the Maryvale is a traditional converted Victorian house with modern facilities that also houses a great little tea room and small conference center.

Vagabonds Hostel – If you are looking for the inexpensive, option Vagabounds Hostel is the way to go. Rated one of the top five hostels in the UK/Ireland in 2010 and endorsed by the local Visitors Office, it seems to be a good bet. It is ideally situated in the University Quarter and within walking distance to many of the city’s attractions.

CITY CENTER

What toDo

Belfast City Hall – Runs free public tours of its facilities Monday through Saturday. The tour is excellent and provides a great introduction to the city’s political history and current political environment.

Linen Hall Library – Located directly across the street from City Hall, this library was is the oldest in Belfast. Their extensive collection contains special interest books in unique Irish and local studies, political collections and the performing arts archive.

Check out the historic Entries, a number of narrow alleyways or corridors that connect city center’s streets. Check them out to find snug pubs, little shops and quick passageways to other streets.

St Ann’s Cathedral/Belfast Cathedral – The cathedral dates back to 1899 and has the largest Celtic cross in Ireland, and mosaics and stained glass on Celtic themes. Open daily 10am-4pm.

The Black Box – A hub for music, theatre and art, the Black Box hosts a variety of different shows and events. Stop in for a quick look at the gallery and see what’s on that night.

St George’s Market – This bustling market is open Friday-Sunday and is one of Belfast’s oldest attractions. The market was originally constructed between 1890 and 1896. The Saturday Food and Garden market is my favourite, as you can sample lots of local produce, check out local artisans, enjoy the live music and see the locals in full shopping swing.

St Malachy’s Church – A historic Catholic church located in the city. The beautiful interior underwent massive restoration in 2008-2009.

Belfast Waterfront – Take a stroll around the waterfront area and check out the Waterfront Hall, Lagan River and the Fish and Ring of Thanksgiving sculptures. Random fact: the locals call the Ring of Thanksgiving sculpture “Nula with the hula”.

Titanic Walking Tour – An excellent walking tour that explores the grounds where the Titanic was built and launched. The tour lasts approximately two hours and is well worth the money. Tours begin at 11am and 2pm daily from the Premier Inn Hotel, Titanic Quarter. Make sure you check out the Harland and Wolff cranes, a Belfast landmark.

Ormeau Baths Gallery – Formerly a public bath house, this building has been converted into a contemporary art gallery.

Ormeau Park – This municipal park is the oldest park in Belfast, having opened publicly in 1871. It is a great little getaway in the city and offers unique views of the Harland and Wolff cranes in the Titanic Quarter. The main gates are located at Ormeau Road and Baroda Street.

Shop

Victoria Square – Lots of higher end retail stores, such as House of Fraser, Top Shop and Pull and Bear. Best of all is the Victoria Square Dome, which contains 360-degree views of the city. It is a great place to snap a few pictures. Admission is free and is accessible by stairs and an elevator in the middle of the shopping center. Around the corner on Arthur Street you will find Okaidi Kids, Avoca and Paperchase.

Belfast has a variety of independent stores that offer unique shopping experiences, such as Still, Crafty, Equinox, Liberty Blue and Stray Jewellery. Interested in unique Northern Irish crafts? The Crafts Council has made this nifty studio map to help you find your way. If you would like to stay inside the city, the Conway Mill off the Falls Road hosts fourteen craft workers in a refurbished building. If you happen to be in the city on a Saturday or Sunday, St. George’s Market has a great variety of local artisans, crafters and specialty shops who set up stalls every week.

Eat

Brew Bar Cafe – A brand new coffee shop that is truly making coffee drinking a science.

Soul Food – Casual cafe setting that is nice for having a coffee and catching up.

Drinks

Laugh all you want, but going out for drinks truly is an important part of Belfast culture. Get out and enjoy some of the ‘craic’ in these local watering holes while you are here.

Don’t have much time to get out to lots of different pubs on your own? Why not hop onto one of the Historical Pub Tours of Belfast? It will give you a good taste of all of the major pubs in town, along with a drinking history of the city.

The Errigle Inn – One of Belfast’s most well known and well loved bars. My personal favourite place to grab a pint. Lots of different nooks and crannies to escape to for a quiet pint as well as larger areas that accommodate large groups of people well.

The Morning Star – Great for a good pint of Guinness. A real man’s man bar, it tends to be a magnet for local men seeking a good steak and a cold pint.

Cafe Vaudeville – Self-proclaimed ‘Luxebar’, Cafe Vaudeville is known for great drinks and relaxing life music.

The Spaniard Pub –Known for its delicious rum-based drinks, the Spaniard is always hopping and the drinks are always flowing.

Duke of York – Always busy on the weekends, the Duke of York is a must-visit Belfast institution. Lots of pub paraphernalia and the like decorate the ancient walls.

The Crown Liquor Saloon – So famous and steeped in history, the National Trust acquired the saloon to maintain its historical significance in 1978. Dating back to 1826, the Crown is a true Victorian gem filled with unique colours, designs, inviting snugs and beautifully aged wood. It has been described as “a multi coloured tavern of intoxicant delight”.

QUEENS QUARTER & LISBURN ROAD AREA

What to Do

Queen’s University of Belfast – Founded in 1845, Queen’s opened in 1849 when the first students entered the magnificent new college building designed and built by Charles Lanyon.

Botanic Gardens and Palm House – Located conveniently beside Queen’s is the Botanic Gardens. First established in 1828, the gardens have been a public park since 1895 and contain a wide range of beautiful and exotic plants and flowers.

Ulster Museum, National Museum Northern Ireland – As with many museums across the United Kingdom, the Ulster Museum is free admission and contains an impressive collection of history ranging from early Irish settlers to the Pacific. The modern facilities are open everyday except Monday.

Queens Film Theatre – A university-run cinema that specializes in showcasing independent and classic films.

Swantons Gourmet Foods – Great for a deli sandwich and a coffee after an afternoon of browsing on Lisburn Road.

Just Outside of the City Center

Clonard Monastery -The Clonard Monastery dates back to 1898 and is a sight to be seen. It is located just off Falls Road so if you are on a tour, ask your guide to take you there. The monastery places host to many choirs and is supposed to be an amazing venue, so if you have the chance, grab tickets.

Crumlin Road Gaol (Jail) – A distinctive landmark steeped in history from the Troubles. Currently closed for renovations but due to re-open in 2012. A must-do, but you are required to pre-book tours.

Stormount Parliament/Northern Irish Assembly – If you have a chance, pop over to Stormont for a dander – and if you have kids, you’re in luck: they have an excellent playground.

Belfast Castle – Located in the Cave Hill area of North Belfast, the Castle was built in 1860s. As it is located on a hill, the castle offers some lovely views of Belfast and the surrounding area.

Belfast Zoo – Located not far from the Belfast Castle, it would be wise to visit both while you are in this area of town. The zoo is relatively small but houses a wide range of exotic animals. One warning: the zoo is built on a hill, so it can be quite a bit colder up there and it makes walking tiring for wee ones. Be prepared!

Ulster Folk & Transport Museum – Sounds a wee bit boring but I promise you will not be disappointed. The museum is split into two ‘parks’ – the folk park showcasing what it was like to live in Northern Ireland over a 100 years ago and the transport park shows off trains, planes, carriages and automobiles through the ages.

Drumbo Dog Races – The Drumbo Greyhound races are open every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Having gone myself, the slogan ‘A Great Night Out’ lives up to its name. It was great ‘craic’ and we had a blast. It is out of town but you can arrange for a reasonable cab ride with Value Cabs.

Notable Belfast/Northern Locals

George Best (1946-2005) – Professional footballer legend from East Belfast. There are many tributes to this local hero around the city including the George Best Airport.

Alex Higgins (1949-2010) – Also know as Hurricane Higgins, he was born in Belfast. A former world snooker champion who was crowned king twice and came runner-up twice.

Mary Peters (1939- ) – Athlete and Olympic gold medalist in the pentathlon. She was born in England but raised in Northern Ireland.

C. S. Lewis (1898-1963) – Famous writer best known for his fictional work The Chronicles of Narnia. Was born in Belfast.

Mary McAleese (1951- ) – Ireland’s second female President. She was raised in North Belfast.

Van Morrison (1945- ) – Singer, songwriter and musician. Has many well-loved songs such as Gloria, Brown Eyed Girl and Dancing in the Moonlight.

Got to include the Craft & Design Collective on Fountain St. if you’re here, beautiful selection of local craftwork in a gallery/shop co-op, there’ll usually be at least 1 of the makers involved working there every day too.http://www.craftanddesigncollective.com
Also, the John Hewitt bar on Donegall St, run by a resource centre for the unemployed, great atmosphere and fantastic food during the day.
And if you’re going to mention golfers, got to include Darren Clarke who won the British Open last weekend at the 20th attempt…god loves a trier!

Great to see a guide for my home! I recently went with a group of friends for a big day out in Belfast (even though we live in nearby towns of Newtownards & Comber and I study in Belfast) and we had a great time. We took the tour of the City Hall and spent a few hours in the Ulster Museum & gardens…it’s a must! We then took a boat tour along the River Lagan and heard all about our history regarding the building of the Titanic.

Could I please recommend some delicious eateries?? My favourite has got to be Picnic in Killyleagh, County Down. Half an hour from the city, this little deli/cafe is situated right beside a beautiful castle in a very quaint town, also close to Strangford Lough which is beautiful! Another gorgeous cafe is The Grey Goose in Comber…it is excellent! Comber is about 20 mins from the city and another lovely town with some beautiful shops. I recommend you visit these towns surrounding Strangford Lough and if you are coming this far out of town you should visit Mount Stewart, a National Trust property with amazing gardens.

This year we decided not to go on a foreign holiday but have had a great times spending days in local places and in the south of Ireland. I just love my wee home!

Small correction regarding the title and some other references: Belfast is in Northern Ireland, not Ireland. Those are 2 different, independent countries. Northern Ireland is not a region in the North of Ireland. :)

Also the Black Box holds a monthly crafts/vintage/etc market called the Black Market. The next one is on the 14th of August. So nice to see a guide to Belfast (and also see all the other people from Northern Ireland who read Design Sponge!)

Recommended reading if you want to visit NI: Beyond Belfast by Will Ferguson. Hilarious and great insight into NI as a country and its people/history. He walks the entire Ulster Way, which is the longest waymarked trail in the British Isles – 560 miles!!

awesome review…i’m going back home in september and a trip to the titanic quarter is on the agenda for my family and i…we are from armagh…another little gem of a town steeped in history…well worth the 45 minute drive from belfast to see where st patrick built his first church…

Studied abroad at Queen’s and continued to live in Belfast for a bit as I fell in love with this incredibly friendly and approachable city. In my many trips to both Northern Ireland and Ireland (the south), I always found NI to be so much more interesting than the south. Don’t know why everyone flocks to Dublin when Belfast is far more fun. I’m not sure if it’s still there, but a great little cafe and book store worth checking out is Book Finders Cafe, right across the street from Queen’s University main entrance. The homemade soups and toasties are very cheap and very delicious!

Despite living just across the border in County Louth for 12 years, I’ve only been to Belfast a couple of times. Thanks for all the suggestions of things to see and do, I’m looking forward to exploring the city more!

I grew up in Belfast but now live in Newcastle, Co. Down, a seaside town which sits on the foot of the Mourne Mountains.

Definitely take Meagan’s advice and visit Newcastle. It’s a hidden gem for tourists and if you’re a golfer, you’ll be pleased to hear this is where you’ll find Royal County Down (the 4th best course in the world!). On around the coast you’ll also find Ardglass, another stunning course.

I also highly recommend the Antrim Coastline. At the end of the day… a city is a city, but the Giants Causeway and the Mourne Mountains are breath taking.

I love that Design Sponge has a Belfast page! I used the Las Vegas guide on my recent holiday and it was a great way to find different things to do. So here are a few of my tips as a local:

Ulster Hall – take a tour with Jan she’ll give you a history of Belfast through the eyes of this much loved music venue. Did you know Led Zepplin performed Stairway to Heaven for the first time at the hall?!

The 2nd hand bookstore on North Street – not far from the main shopping centre, North Street looks unloved and derelict. But there is a great 2nd hand bookstore with floor to ceiling of every kind of book ever written!

Common Grounds cafe – behind Queen’s University main building on University Avenue, this cafe does great coffee and delicious food. Everything is fairly traded and profits go into various charities. They also have an acousitic night on some Fridays.

The Rusty Zip & Charity Shops on Botanic Avenue – this is a great street to pick up vintage clothes, second hand books, vintage houseware and the majority of these shops are selling these items for good causes.

I’m an Aussie living in Belfast (lucky enough to marry a Belfast boy) and absolutely adore Northern Ireland! The architecture in the city is phenomenal (at ground level it doesn’t look like anything special but look up to see the real gems!) A few more great suggestions:

See: The Titanic Belfast – opened in April 2012 this museum has been a huge hit with locals and tourists alike. Book in advance as tickets are often hard to come by – http://www.titanicbelfast.com/

Also, a trip north to the Giants Causeway is a must – one of the wonders of the world with a great story! One of the most breathtaking places in the world.

And a trip across the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge will really get the heart pumping!!

Shop: HEAD – a fabulous music/film store located on Ann Street – stocking everything from Johnny Cash to The Chemical Brothers, from Altan to Beethoven. Vinyl, CDs, DVDs and blu-rays! I highly recommend the great selection of vinyl (I can’t get my husband out of there!)! https://www.facebook.com/headbelfast?fref=ts

Drink: Laverys Bar – located on Bradbury Place, this fantastic bar has a great atmosphere, open fire, traditional music, a beer garden and even a pool room upstairs! A dinner of bangers and mash with a big pint of Guinness is a great finish to any day! http://www.laverysbelfast.com/

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