Does this sound like a good build to those of you who have been in the racing industry? tips pointers advice? anything that will keep me on the right path will be greatly appreciated, love coming here plenty of knowledge for a life time thanks in advance

Your header says "New SBC 383 Build Opinions", but you are saying you have a 1961 4-bolt block. Small block Chevys in 1961 were 283's and I don't think any of them were 4-bolt blocks. Further, I'd be very surprised to learn that you found a scat 3.750" crank with small main bearings.

you would be correct on the 61' im trying to read the numbers off of the block from a pic i took of it id go check but the engine is currently sitting with my machinist back home in ny = as far as the main bearings the block was aligned honed but being im no machinist im sure that was bc of the new crank main sizes??

its deff a 60's block sbc 350 4bolt which is getting ALLOT of care and attention now lol. ok well i was going to upload the pic of the casting numbers but the website says my file is to big so here is the numbers

3970010 and after some google-ing iv come up with its a 1969-1979 350 sbc 4 bolt sorry for the confusion

yes you are right on the converter iam going with an 8 incher from tci i think the 4000 stall would be a better way to be being im not running a trans brake or anything

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68NovaSS

Do you realize you're looking at a c.r. in the 12's? That's with the piston down .025, and a thick gasket.

Also a .060/3.75, 350 block is not a 383, more like 388.

.640 lift with that much duration and domed pistons...check your V/P clearances and make sure the springs can handle that much lift before they bind.

yes we are shooting for a compression ratio of at least 12.5:1 this WAS a .030 350 up until which point my machinist called me and said he had to go to .060 which i wasnt to happy with but it was to late in the game to go back, my machinist is double and triple checking everything to ensure proper geometries

Ahh. I'll assume this a race only build, unless you intend to run 104 or 108 on the street. That's a short tire, but you still might want a little more gear and a serious converter, I don't see the sense in cutting a street converter apart to make it into a reliable race piece. What's the car and weight?

yeah im goin race only with this build but my goal is to keep the car as origional as possible being the value of pontiac's these days, its tough getting much of a taller tire in there without tubbing it out , right now the 373 gears will get me goin down the track until i can pop on some 4.11s maybe even some 4.30s, no street running for this girl anymore the cops like it to much haha so ill be running 108 octane

4Do not power brake against the converter, at the line[/B], set the car up to respond right off idle) it will hook harder, 60ft quicker and go faster.

so if im understanding you correctly you are saying while im waiting for the green light i should be idling then punching the gas instead of having the rpms already up and waiting? doesnt this defeat the purpose of a stall converter being that the higher the stall the higher you can hold the rpms before the wheels start to spin? IE if its 4000 stall then i could be sitting at close to 4000 rpms before power is transfering to the wheels like when beginning a burn out?

Considering the cam, converter, and heads you're going with I'd consider stepping up to a Super Victor intake. With the exception of your gearing everything looks set up to have power in the upper rpm range.

Considering the cam, converter, and heads you're going with I'd consider stepping up to a Super Victor intake. With the exception of your gearing everything looks set up to have power in the upper rpm range.

im figuring the upper rpms as well this engine should be able to spin rpms real fast considering it a 49lb crank and everything is light weight and picked to match the combo for the car so im hoping for the best, my machinist called today and he is in the process of assembly so hopefully soon i can order everything else i will need to put it in and get it running, pics to follow sometime soon

You want to leave at peak torque. But stage at very near idle rpm (1000-1200 staging rpm). (Do not power brake against the converter, at the line, set the car up to respond right off idle) it will hook harder, 60ft quicker and go faster.

Leave at peak torque, then saying leave off idle for hook, 60 foot times and more speed is contradictory.

IMO and experience, you don't want to leave off idle on a NA car, manual or automatic, that's for sure, and whatever line locking device you use is relevant. There's a lot of suspension movement going on to get that car moving, without having to get the motor up in it's power band after the green. Top fuel cars can do it, but pay attention to the door slammers, pro stocks, SG, sportsman cars, they're all up against the converter or near it, or into the power band for the manual guys, on the line.

ITop fuel cars can do it, but pay attention to the door slammers, pro stocks, SG, sportsman cars, they're all up against the converter or near it, or into the power band for the manual guys, on the line.[/QUOTE]

and this is how i thought i was done and its how i did it last season, with a 3500 stall i was sitting at 3000 waiting for the green

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.