Step 23: First print

Step 24: Conclusions

I really like my DeltaTrix 3D printer. I think it is awesome! Since building it I have been able to print improvements to my own printer and I have be...

Under Revision: This Instructable is being updated to reflect the latest version of the DeltaTrix 3D printer, as produced for my Kickstarter project. Until this message is removed, the update is still in progress. The entire previous version is still available in the form of a PDF (actual instructions + pictures) and a rar file (all other files). See below for the PDF and rar file.

The DeltaTrix 3D printer is a capable and novel 3D printer, designed to be simple in construction, yet effective in functionality. It it fully Open Source, so feel free to post improvements on the Instructables website, just don't forget to let me know in order to put links in to your own instructions...

Many thanks to Barrie for doing the video! Also thanks to Jason Mahar for publishing his song 'Pumped' as copyright free music.

Several improvements have been made since creating the initial printer. I will soon make updates to this instructable, in order to document these improvements. I will still make the files available for the initial version, but might organize them in a better way.

A change log is attached to this first step. Current version: V0.14+ (Under Revision!!!)

Enjoy, Richard Tegelbeckers

PS. Just so you know, I applied for a trademark for the actual name 'DeltaTrix '. I have no problem with anyone referring to the name DeltaTrix, as long as they do not try to sell anything as being 'DeltaTrix'. By all means, refer to your thing as being compatible with DeltaTrix, just do not sell it as being a DeltaTrix. Thanks, Richard.

I assume you refer to the aluminium tubes on top of the carriage. The tubes are cut from a length of aluminium tube (8mm Outside Diameter x 1mm wall thickness) I obtained from my local DIY shop. I cut them to just over 14mm and file them down afterwards, so they are exactly 14.0mm (check with callipers). Finally, I drill them out to 6 or 6.5mm to fit the carriages. I am not yet selling the plastic bits, but should do so soon.

I'm trying to put together the bits and pieces to build this printer. I really like the Delta look. I have gotten the same Igus rail and carriage system you used with the exception of the extensions on the carriage in the center photograph. Is that an accessory for the carriage? If so do they have a part number or location I might get them? Also I know you are very busy building for the Kickstarter program (congratulations on that) but I will be in need of the plastic bits - can you give me a price?

Hi. A RPI does not have a lot of IO ports and it is not necessarily good at doing real time stuff, as it uses a Linux operating system. Of course, there is also LinuxCNC, which is actually used for doing real-time stuff. However, for 3D printers (in 2014) the majority of available OS firmware is written for 8 bit AVR or 32 bit ARM based electronics. A RPI can still be useful for 3D printing, as it can act as a host. Visit Octoprint.org to check out the possibilities...

I was just wondering if you are going to be starting a new Kickstarter at any point soon. I would love to get a kit of this build as it is hard for me to do the wood working myself and I don't have any connections which would make this easy for me to do. Unfortunately I missed your last Kickstarter and cannot make a pledge. I already own a 3D printer but I absolutely love your design!

Hi. Many thanks for your interest! The plan is to send the kits for the current Kickstarter in August, after which I aim to launch a new Kickstarter. Right now the production need to be set up, but for the new campaign everything will already be in place. This should lead to shorter lead times. Thanks again, and check back in a little while!

Hi! At the moment I am very busy sorting out the kits for Kickstarter. Part of the work is in finalising some of the latest design improvements and documenting everything I have changed/updated since publishing the initial Instructable. By the time I will be sending out the kits, I will update the Instructable (including the BOM) so it will reflect the latest version of the DeltaTrix 3D Printer. If you have any specific issues before the update, let me know what it is and I will try to sort it out! Also, I am concidering launching a new Kickstarter after sending the kits for the current campaign...

To router the main parts for the frame would be fairly difficult, as accuracy is essential. The design has been created to make use of the precision a CNC can offer. As long as the panels are correct, the frame would allign by itself. However, anything is possible! If I would not have had access to a CNC machine, I probably would have tried a router as well, making use of jigs or other methods for achieving the desired accuracy. In regards of cost, check my earlier reply to SeppePuelings (about a month ago, on this page).

Hello I have wanted a 3d printer since I heard about them but I couldn't afford one, I am 12 and have advanced electronic but basic arduino skills, could you please put a list of all the parts with specific names, it would make my year, Thanks.

Looking at your design, I am hopeful now that a 3D printer is a possibility.

Quick Question: How Do I procure parts when I dont have any one nearby who can 3d print? I do have someone who can laser cut acrylic or wood. Does the geometry of the 3d parts lend itself to a laser cut? which are the parts I can laser cut and which I can machine on a lathe or mill?

The upright panels for the machine frame need to be machined with a (CNC) router. The other panels could possibly be cut by other means, but all the laser cutting machines I know of cannot cut the thickness required.

In terms of the 3D printed parts, some could possible be cut on a (CNC) mill using a 3mm straight cutter: spacers for the switches, brackets for idler pulleys, linear carriage brackets (no. 1) for clamping belts, motor brackets, nozzle bracket. The linear carriage brackets (no. 2) for holding the rods and the end nozzle carriage would be difficult to machine.

At the moment I am running a Kickstarter campaign where I am offering the DeltaTrix 3D Printer in kit form. It is also possible to just get hold of a panel set. If other options would be required, ask and I could add them, eg. 3D printed parts only, or panel set + 3D printed parts only. The Kickstarter will receive a big update in a few days, so make sure you keep an eye on it!

The Rostock 3D printer uses similar size rods. There will most certainly be some deflection, but as plenty of peoples have been using Rostock type printers I am sure you will be able to get away with it.

Is there any way you could send me the arduino code that you made for this printer? Im really horrible when it comes to coding. Being 15 i havent taken coding classes and dont know how to make that part of the printer. If you dont want to give out that code its fine. Thanks!

My firmware is not yet ready for publishing, as it needs some cleaning up. When the time comes - which should be fairly soon - I am planning to publish the documented code on this very Instructable. Together with the publishing of the code, I will include full instructions on how to setup the printer and how to make changes to the firmware. If you really cannot wait a few days, send me a Private Message with your email address and I will send the 'dirty' files by email. PS. As you are building a printer with linear rods, make sure the rods are thick enough and not too long, otherwise their deflection could become an issue.

Thanks to you i was able to design my own printer and am currently building it. Dude you are my hero. Haha im using linear rods instead of your slide though because i do not have access to a cnc machine. Thanks aton and good luck with your kickstarter!!!!

I just checked the link and it was working fine. Do you have Excel installed properly? I suggest trying again and if is still does not work, send me a Private Message with your email address and I will send it as as an attachment. Cheers, Richard.

There are a few free viewers available for download, which will be able to open the zipped *.dwg file from Step 3. I recommend Autodesk DWG Trueview if you are running a Windows PC, but there are also other alternatives available from Autodesk.

If you have to do with older hardware, like me, the latest viewers can be a little demanding. In this case it could be best to use the 2008 version of DWG Trueview, as located on cnet.com.

Use a viewer to take the measurements, straight from the model. If you have too much trouble with this, let me know as I might consider publishing proper engineering drawings for the panels.

The biggest issues with building a printer, will be getting the CNC machined panels and the 3D printed parts. You will need access to a fairly large CNC machine and spend some time programming it. Also, as a standard 8x4ft piece of plywood will yield panels for three machines, there would be a lot of waste if you only needed one set. The best way to get 3D printed parts, is by using a friend's 3D printer. Online printing services would be fairly expensive (I actually did win my first set of parts in an Instructables contest!). As a one off, it would cost upwards of £550 for all the other bits, on top of the cost for CNC machined panels and 3D printed parts. As the electronics I used RAMPS v1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560 R3. On my friend's machine we actually used a non-original, compatible Mega.

About This Instructable

Bio:I am a Dutch design engineer, living in Wales (UK) and working in steel industry until recently, as my request for voluntary redundancy did get accepted. I am married, and I am a father to a little bo...read more »