When in Doubt, Just Add Garlic

Published 4:00 am, Wednesday, September 16, 1998

For more years than I care to remember, I've lived by the maxim, "Add more garlic and more jalapenos if you have any question."

This "add more" philosophy can probably be blamed on too many years spent on and off in Mexico . . . and on my own jaded taste buds.

Plain steamed vegetables just didn't -- and still do not -- cut the mustard in our household.

Things that I've found to boost the flavor of just plain vegetables (steamed, microwaved or sauteed) include grated Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano; minced fresh garlic or smoked garlic (I found this in a farmers' market just recently); one or two minced charred jalapeno or serrano chiles with the blackened skin left on; thyme, minced fresh rosemary needles, oregano and or basil; a few teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, a little kosher salt and freshly ground Tellicherry peppercorns.

I began experimenting with enhancing vegetable flavors during my sons' growing-up years, when they thought everything tasted better with cheese. The spicy Mexican approach was a healthy detour, moving us away from the "cauliflower is only good with cheese sauce" mode.

And most kids -- big kids, too -- find it very appealing to roll up vegetables in a soft, warm tortilla. Which of course gives you still more options for adding a little more chile . . . or garlic.

Mexican cooks are brilliant at thinking up ways to use the squash that grows so abundantly in every summertime yard. This recipe, very different from the usual colache, or squash stew, is an adaptation of a recipe from Zarela Martinez.

INGREDIENTS:

-- 1 cup water

-- 1/2 teaspoon salt

-- 5 young, tender zucchini, trimmed and diced

-- 2 tablespoons mild olive oil

-- 2 garlic cloves, minced

-- 1 cup minced onion

-- 1 tomato, cored and diced

-- 2 cups fresh corn kernels

-- 2 poblano chiles, charred, peeled, seeded and diced

-- 1 cup evaporated milk ( 3/4 cup Mexican crema is even better)

-- 1 cup grated white cheddar or Chihuahua cheese

INSTRUCTIONS: Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan; add the salt, then the zucchini. Simmer for 5 minutes; drain. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the garlic and onion and saute for 3 minutes.

Add the tomato and cook, stirring, until the liquid evaporates.

Add the corn and poblano chiles; cook for 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and the milk (or crema). Bring to a boil and stir in the cheese, which will immediately thicken the juices.

Simmer for 2 minutes, then serve.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: This is delicious not only as a side dish but also over rice as a vegetarian meal.

NACHO POTATOES

These are great as a side dish for breakfast, lunch, or a grilled dinner. We like to roll up the potatoes in warm corn tortillas.

INGREDIENTS:

-- 2 1/2 pounds red potatoes or Yukon Golds, scrubbed and diced

-- 2 tablespoons mild olive oil

-- 1/2 cup diced onion

-- 2 garlic cloves, minced

-- 2 green Anaheim chiles, seeded and diced

-- Salt and pepper to taste

-- 1/2 cup grated medium-sharp cheddar cheese

-- 2 tablespoons sliced pickled jalapenos

INSTRUCTIONS: Cook the potatoes in boiling water until just barely tender, about 8 minutes. Drain in a colander, then blot off remaining moisture with paper towels. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet. Add the onion and fry until softened. Stir in the garlic and Anaheims. Fry for 2 minutes, then stir in the potatoes. Cook until the potatoes are lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, sprinkle the cheese over the potatoes and scatter the jalapenos over all. Heat for another 2 to 3 minutes to melt the cheese. Serves 4 to 6.

Steam the cauliflower for 8 minutes, or until just barely tender. Separate into small florets.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onion and saute just until golden. Stir in the tomatoes, cook for a minute, then add the garlic, chile, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves. Simmer for 10 minutes. Discard the cloves, cinnamon stick and bay leaves.

Place half of the sauce in a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. Arrange the cauliflower on top. Pour the remaining sauce over all.

For the topping: Mix together the parsley, garlic and breadcrumbs; sprinkle over the cauliflower and sauce. Scatter the cheese over all.

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the cauliflower is hot and the topping is golden.

Note: Make fluffy breadcrumbs from French or Italian bread that is 2 to 3 days old but not completely dried out. Place small pieces of bread, crust removed, in a food processor. Process just until you have coarse yet fluffly crumbs.