As a poultry pet sitter, I always fear one of my clients' birds becoming sick, injured or broody with no spare coop for isolation from the rest of the flock. In most cases, there is nothing I could even use to improvise with!

But even when I am not there as your pet sitter, having a quarantine coop will serve you well. No-one ever regrets having one ready.

Here is a great guide on simple-to-make quarantine/broody coop ideas that could work in your backyard.

Quarantine coops are used for:

Sick and injured birds

Broody isolation units

Hatching fertilised eggs

Introducing new chickens to the yard before integrating with the existing flock - preventing spread of diseases/pests

Keep the quarantine coop as far away as possible from the main poultry coop to prevent spread of disease.

Quarantine unwell birds at the first sign of sickness/injury to prevent spread or attack.

Have one or two plastic tarpaulins ready.These are used for covering the quarantine coop if the sick bird has a contagious respiratory condition or able to keep the drafty winds/rain out.

It must be fully cleanable and accessible.

Food and water containers must be able fit within the structure.

OBEY the length of time that quarantine needs to be. Do not be tempted to release the birds too early.

If you have free ranging chickens that might wander over to the quarantine coop, add extra fencing to keep them away. The further away, the better.

​BROODY COOP ISOLATION FACTORSAs broody hens are only going through a normal hormonal phase, the purpose of a broody coop is to "break" her out of being broody and help her resume normal free ranging and egg laying again.

The broody coop is NOT for overnight use - only day time isolation - to keep her away from the nesting box.

Broody isolation must NOT have any nesting boxes.

Supply clean food and water.

Keep the this isolation coop in a cool shaded position.Grassy areas are highly recommended to bring down a broody's core temperature which aims "breaking" the broodiness.

Creating a coop for a broody that needs to be broken really ONLY needs fencing.An elaborate structure is usually unnecessary.

HATCHING WITH A BROODY FACTORSUse the quarantine coop for hatching fertilised eggs. Be aware, that if sickness does occur with any other birds in the flock that another quarantine coop will need to sourced.

Make best use of old trampoline frames.This will keep nesting hen and chicks safe from predators and other poultry that are likely to attack them.

The nesting area must be warm and secure. Mother hen must have access to food and water near to her while sitting.

Hatching coops need more run area than a standard quarantine.Explore the appropriateness of your yard before proceeding. Do you have room?

Chicks integrate into the main flock around 16-18 weeks of age.BE AWARE: This means up to 18 weeks of a quarantine coop in use.

PESTS AND CLEANING FACTORS

Clean the quarantine coop THOROUGHLY before and after use.

Food and water sources must be kept clean - washed out after use.

After use, sweep, scrub down all surfaces, discard ALL nesting materials into a garbage bag for the bin.

Spray with Virkon disinfectant throughout (after diseased birds have left quarantine).

Spray with Malaban Wash or Maldisan 50 if mites and lice have been on the birds.

Wear different boots into the quarantine coop to prevent transferring diseased matter out to the main flock.

Use the quarantine coop for all the flock when thoroughly cleaning out the main chicken coop for its annual clean.

There are so many different ways to keep chickens in your yard to suit your garden style. A mobile coop might be right for you.

​Moveable coops are not quite the same as mobile ones. A moveable coop can be picked up and moved by a couple of people, while mobile shedding usually comes with wheels and can be moved about by one person. They are also known as chicken tractors.

So rather than talk about mini coops that CAN be moved, let's have a look at the ones on WHEELS!

There are many benefits in having a mobile coop.Other than using a mobile coop as their main shed, they are also excellent for taking to a friends place for the weekend or can be used a quarantine coop or for breeding .

Most people instantly think of the A-frame that can be knocked up over the weekend by very crafty people. But if you are not the handyman and just need a mobile coop delivered ASAP, then here are a few good ones to try:

The price on an Omlet Eglue will vary according to the outside run length chosen.Wheels are optional and are able to be purchased separately. Wheels are $100.The 3m run option is the best option for this style.​With wheels it will retail for $848.00 plus delivery.

- The bottom allows direct assess to the ground without restriction, thus allowing dust bathing.- The wire mesh extends outward to deter predators from digging underneath.- The mesh will not prevent vermin from getting in.- There is a larger coop option available for more chickens.- Made entirely from plastic, it helps to prevent mite infestations and makes cleaning a breeze!- Hens perch directly onto the plastic grate floor. No roosting rails.​- Comes with a feeder and tarp for run.- Rear access door.

PERSONAL NOTE: I own one of these without wheels and can easily move it about my yard, with or without assistance. Unclipping the run from the Eglu is necessary if moving it by oneself. If you have a helper, they can lift the run rather than unclip.

Made with a strong by light weight aluminium frame and galvanized corrugated iron. There are so many different sizes available to choose from to suit your yard. This one is for 4-6 hens.Wheels are optional and can be purchased separately. Wheels are $50.With wheels and fox proof floor it will retail for $795.00 plus delivery.​- The bottom is fully meshed, allowing for grass to come through, but not for dust bathing. (Optional - $50)​- There are no doors internally to protect hens from the weather, so the position of the coop according to the wind is very important.- Optional external nesting boxes are $170 extra.- Colorbond is an extra $50 with plain galvanized as the cheapest option.- Mesh floor upstairs - poo will drop through to ground. (Do not place water source beneath this level)​- You can make alterations to this design with installing an internal wall weather shields and add a solid floor for an extra $50.- Roosting rails included.​- Rear access door.

Made with durable exterior materials to handle the weather, they also come with an extra trolley connector to make moving this coop about so easy.

Price will vary according to your location.$729 - $879 (eg. Adelaide $779)IMPORTANT: You will need to pick up your order from the freight company in your capital city.​(e.g. Findon Rd, Kidman Park, Adelaide)

- There are many different sizes available with or without wheels. Larger and smaller available.- Dine-A-Chook accessories are also available through their website.- NO internal upper story floor, only roosting rails and nesting box containers.- Chicken poo is able to be deposited directly onto the ground, enabling natural ground fertilisation as the coop is moved around.- No need to clean with this design.​- Hens are fully protected from the elements - although no vents are installed to regulate summer time air flow.- Fox proof floor is option in the smallest version for only $29. Options for larger sheds is not indicated.

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SUMMER TIME

Please keep your mobile coop in the shade during hot days. Most of these coop designs do not have ventilation options other than being open internally.

Move them throughout the day to protect the poultry from the elements and to utilise the coop for maximum benefit - keeping down the grass and keeping it fertilised.

Also makes for happy hens to find new ground and bugs to eat while they stay safe from predators.

If you know of any other mobile chicken coop company in Australia that sells nation wide, please let us know.

Whether you are buying, showing or have sick or injured poultry, every poultry keeper MUST have a quarantine area.

Quarantine means to relocate poultry away from other the other birds so as not to expose them to any possible contamination or the opportunity for attack.

During quarantine isolation the bird/s are treated for external parasites, internal worms, or any illness or injury. This is especially so for any new hens coming into your yard.

At the same time, any established birds in the yard need to also be up to date with their pest dusting and worming treatments so as not to also contaminate the birds who will eventually come out of isolation and join the flock.

WHY QUARANTINE?Even though a bird may look healthy, they can be carriers of disease which may lie dormant in them but still be communicable, or it may take a couple of days before signs of illness are noticeable. This is why quarantining is so imperative and should NEVER BE SKIPPED.

Injured poultry need some where to recover and avoid being pecked to death by the rest of the flock. And mother hen needs to protect her young and keep their chick food safe from being consumed by the adult hens.

HOW LONG IS QUARANTINE?3-4 weeks is the standard time.Less time may be given only to those recovering from injury or operation.​

​WHAT MAKES A GOOD QUARANTINE?

As far away as possible from the main chicken coop

Solid shed/coop that is fit for purpose and clean

Draft free and dry

Double fencing, where possible– the second outside fence is as wide as a footpath around the quarantine coop.

Able to enclose with plastic tarpaulins if required

Able to be easily accessed by adults

Fresh food and water

Some roaming area for dust bathing even if its grass clipping, fine shellgrit or sand provided in large container. Keeping up their grooming will make a big difference to their feeling of wellbeing to aid recovery.

Options to perch or floor sit out of a draft. Perching is a healthy sign.

​

YOUR PERSONAL CLEANLINESSYour cleanliness is just as important to keep your chickens healthy so that disease is not spread.​Keeping the droppings from other birds out of their yard is a priority.

4 simple rules for BIOSECURITY:

Clean footwear, set aside especially for the quarantine coop.

Stand boots in a medicated footbath (Virkon S, etc.) if your poultry have a contagious illness.

If you need to handle the birds:- Wear an apron, overalls or a different set of clothes- Wear disposable gloves

Wash your hands and use an alcohol rub every time you enter/exit quarantine.

​

INTEGRATING THE HENS – Week 3 or 4Once a hen has been in quarantine for a period of time, the pecking order can change or will be rearranged once new hens are added to the existing flock. This is all normal behaviour.

If quarantining a bird because of their persistent bad behaviour toward other birds, this period of time will usually correct the hen pecking order balance once she is released.

When transitioning NEW hens into an existing flock, week 3 is VERY IMPORTANT.

Remove ONE of the fence lines and start to feed both the new and old hens at this fence line, if this is possible in your yard set-up.

If the quarantine coop is too far away or not accessible for your other hens, then move the new birds into a fenced area NEXT to the older hens during the day. Feed them at the fence line. Fencing could be temporary pet fencing or chicken wire with stakes.

Feeding with just one fence line is socialisation. This will minimise pecking order issues.Do this for all hens in quarantine who are healthy enough to be introduced to the main flock, in week 3.ONLY proceed with this step if you are certain that their illness has been resolved.

CLEANING THE QUARANTINE AFTER USEThe quarantine coop must be thoroughly cleaned after use to prevent any future outbreaks.

Bag up all manure droppings for the general rubbish bin

Bag up all bedding and nesting materials for the bin

Sweep out

Squirt down solid flooring with a hose (where possible)

Scrub down all surfaces with water soapy water, brush and clean rag

Spray with a poultry disinfectant spray such as Virkon S, if contagious birds were resident

Clean out ALL food and water containers with a warm soapy wash

Allow stand open to air dry

For cleaning out a PET TENT, clean out thoroughly with banister broom, dust pan and vacuum cleaner. Wash the tent sides with warm soapy water. Use an antibacterial spray or Virkon S and allow to air dry outside (away from other hens).

Botulism occurs when birds eat food or drink water containing botulism toxin. The toxin is produced by bacteria called ClostridiumBotulinum.

Chickens, ducks, geese, guinea fowl and many other birds are susceptible.

The toxin is produced in decaying animal bodies and plant waste, and toxin-containing material (pond-mud, carcases, maggots) is consumed by the birds. Toxin may also be produced by the bacteria in the caecum.

What is the caecum? A chicken's intestine has two little pouch-like places called cecum. ​Bacteria in these pouches help to digest particularly woody, fibrous or tough bits of food that the chicken ingests.The food ferments here for a while so the chicken can extract as much of the nutrients as possible.

Flaccid paresis of legs, wings, necks and eyelids is observed. The paresis is rapidly progressing to paralysis and the birds fall into a deep coma with neck and head typically extended forward.

Quick Home TestGrab 4 or 5 feathers and give them a gentle pull. If it is Botulism, the feathers will come straight out. Botulism causes muscle paralysis and this will affect feather hold.

CausesFrom consuming rotten or spoiled food, ingesting contaminated food with the Clostridium botulinum bacteria.It is not actually the bacteria that causes an infection; instead, it is the toxin produced by the bacteria, which causes poisoning.

Wet, rotting organic matter is frequently the cause. Stagnant ponds and waterways can also be suspected.

Treatment

Remove the suspected toxic food source/s immediately.

Isolate affected bird/s in quarantine shed and treat.

Give a water soluble vitamins (A, D & E) with selenium and a probiotic.

Contagious?No. It is not passed from bird to bird. But if the poultry have access to the same food source, there may be more infected birds.

It also cannot pass onto humans by handling the infected bird/s.

OutlookRecovery will depend on how much the bird has consumed and how quickly treatment was begun.

Other illnesses it could be mistaken for:

Marek's Disease

Vitamin deficiency

Leg paralysis is common in both of these conditions.

Buying & Selling during IllnessDo not buy or sell any of your poultry during a period of poultry illness.Gain a firm diagnosis from your vet and then allow 6-8 weeks after the last day of quarantined illness to give your yard the 'all clear' to resume buying and selling.

If any of the poultry display any of the amount signs, please report this to your local vet. Disease management starts with you so that the spread can be mapped, controlled and the right vaccines can be on hand for future flocks. It helps the vets to be able to recognise an outbreak if every backyard poultry owner reports an incident.(This does not mean a vet bill, it just means a phone call in most cases).

Not every symptom will be visible in every case.

Take preventative steps and practice strong biosecurity measures immediately.Go for yard lock down and separate sick poultry from those who are not yet presenting with symptoms. Use different boots in the yard, wash all equipment, use a quarantine coop or pop up pet tent inside your house or car shed.

Do not take poultry out of your yard except for veterinary care.

Do not worm the poultry during this time, instead opt for probiotics and vitamin supplements in their water or feed.

Vaccinations against these disease can only be done at the time of hatching, not during their adult life.​There may an exception to one or two diseases but later vaccines prove to be waste of time in many cases. Once the disease has occurred, the hens become life time carriers. (All in/All out approach is best for those wishing to breed).

Do not bring in any new poultry or sell any of your existing poultry for the next 6-8 weeks after the last sick hen has recovered. No chicken sales for the next two months!

Decide if culling may be required. In the case of Marek's Disease, there must be an immediate cull to prevent spread.

There comes a time in every school when the school chickens need to say goodbye. Non-laying hens are the usual reason why they are sent away, in favour of new hens that can supply eggs once again. Sometimes it can be just because a school no longer wants to keep chickens in favour of other activities.

Chickens do not necessarily have to be replaced as they can still be used as foragers in the school garden or as agricultural pets. Keeping them until they expire is also very education for the children to learn about their life cycle and deal with death.

An educational facility should write a chicken keeping policy so that there is always a plan to go by when the question arises. Are they just for eggs, are they for meat, too, or are we happy to keep them as school pets (garden mascots)?

Usually one teacher is designated as the person who secured funding for the chickens and their facilities, so it would be most appropriate to include this person in future decision making. This person should have the first choice as to whether they would like to take the unwanted hens, rehoming them or introducing them to their own backyard.

It can be an emotionally charged time in a school or kindergarten, just amongst the staff alone, to make the final decision.

For this reason, it is best not to disclose your intent to the children or families, or make it too broad and final as this can stir further emotions. I will discuss this a little further to clarify.

Keeping the old with the new

Keeping the hens and introducing new hens can also be done so long as the coop is big enough for the new additions. Remember to stick to the ratio of 3:1 - chickens per layer box.

Integrating new hens with the existing girls also requires a 3-4 week quarantine period in separate coops on the same premises. In that time we observe both flocks for signs of illness, respiratory issues, discharge, lice and mites. Both are given worming treatment and are pest dusted (e.g. with Pestene).

​For this period, two coops with fencing will be necessary. This will be a issue for your budget.

The pecking order will be disrupted for a time but if handled well, they should all fully integrate. Keep an eye on any loss of feathers or bleeding during this time. If the worst occurs that they do not integrate well, then it is best to remove the older hens entirely.

​Provide food distractions to help them get along such as hanging apples or a cabbage head for them to all pick at. Food is a remarkably good way of helping hens to get to know each other.

​Choosing to say goodbye

Aim for any change of chickens during the school holidays. Children returning in the new term will cope easily with the change and fresh faces of new hens. Do not make any big announcements about the old or new hens coming or going to make this transition run smoothly.

Where to get rid of them to

Allow a member of staff to have the first choice, who has the most emotionally vested into the keeping of the chickens.

Use your Newsletter to ask parents if they would be interested in rehoming chickens.(Yes, this is notifying them but never overlook the great community right under your nose. ​Keep it LOW KEY.)

If you are not abject to the possibility of someone eating non-laying hens, list them on www.gumtree.com.au

I regularly receive calls from chicken owners who are worried about the sounds their chickens are making, often its a cough or wheezing sound. My first plan of action is always consult your vet and immediately isolate your affected poultry from the rest of the flock to prevent the spread.

So many people own chickens because they want to go organic, so antibiotics can't come into the plan if that is the ultimate goal. So if its mild and you want to try to avoid the vet then there is a product on the market that is worthwhile trying.

If you do use antibiotics, just remember that there is egg withhold between 14 to 36 days. You don't need to do that with VetRX.

VetRX is a natural product that does not violate the organic rule. As it is an oil there are quite a few applications for this product. But as it is an oil, it can be its only down side as it can be quite difficult to clean off of your hands or out of clothing. So don't wear your best clothes when dealing with this one.

The smell is a bit like Vicks Vapour Rub. So when it is used for respiratory issues it needs to be added to a warm water diffuser (not a cold water vapouriser).

It can be used internally, externally as a topical application or through inhalation via steam in an enclosed coop area over night.

VetRX is imported from the USA so our prices in Australia can be a bit pricey. Budget for around $50.

Is it worth it? There are a lot of happy VetRX users, so check out their product reviews to learn more about how it can be used for different applications. Most claim that it worked over night in many cases, at least the symptoms had eased significantly.

Even great to use on show chickens to make their wattles and combs look brilliant. VetRX has a whole stack of uses!

I am hesitant to call it a 'cure all', but it will certainly help temporarily relieve symptoms in your poultry, enough for them to recover and allow their immune system to have a chance to kick into gear.

Make sure that you get the VetRX for POULTRY.
There are lots of VetRX products for different animals, so make sure you get the right product for the right pet.
Also available for RABBITS, FURY ANIMALS, PIGEONS, and GOATS & SHEEP.

As a pet sitter I always practice biosecurity when I take care of any one's poultry. And its not only to protect my clients birds to keep them healthy and safe but also care for my own flock so that I do not bring any disease or pests back home with me.

My parents worked both on their own farm and later on a commercial meat bird farm, both of which practiced different levels of biosecurity. Their experience gave me a great practical knowledge that I can share with you.

Commercial poultry sheds implement a very high level of biosecurity which even restricts vehicle access to reduce the introduction of new diseases onto the farm. Vehicle washing stations are also part of many of their facilities. But fundamentally at a shed level it means that the workers much change their clothes and wash their boots in a boot bath solution before entering and exiting every shed.

On a regular free range family farm, however, biosecurity rules are much less strict. But stricter rules may apply if an outbreak has been detected. Usually the isolation of a farm is enough. There is not a high level of traffic and visitors like in a commercial situation. Isolation sheds are still key to keeping poultry safe on a family farm.

So what does it mean when I come to your yard?

My first thought is always my footwear. Even when I come for a complimentary visit, I wash my shoes as soon as I get home. But when I visit your yard during a booking, I will always wear a pair of sturdy gum boots. At my car I take them off, place them in a bag and put on different shoes to drive home in.

As soon as I am home, the boots are scrubbed down in my laundry (never outside where my hens are), and then are soaked in a solution, scrubbed again and rinsed off and left to air dry in sun by the window.

My choice of boots are also very important. I always try to find low rise tread where soil contaminates have less places to harbour. Some boots have deep tread on the heel which makes cleaning a nightmare (see top picture).

My clothing is also important as the folds of pants legs can potentially carry bio-hazards to or from properties. So I use a uniform or a change of pants for every pet sitting job for the day. Since chickens might hop up onto my lap during a visit I take care to always change.

My equipment always gets a good soapy scrub between visits, too. And again, it is never done outside but in my laundry to keep any contaminates from being spread.

My hands are very important in keeping not only the pets healthy but myself as well.During a clean out of water drinkers I wear disposable gloves to ensure that containers are properly clean. After the waterers are attended to, the manures are then removed from the coop in a light general clean. The gloves are then disposed of before exiting your property. Keeping contiminates on the property is safer than removing it to another location off site whenever possible. If I do take them with me, it will be in a zip lock bag that will be disposed of at home.

Other ways to use Biosecurity

Buying new poultry

Whenever you bring more poultry onto your property there should be at least 3 to 4 weeks of quarantine. This means keeping them on your property BUT in isolation from the other poultry with the widest distance possible. As backyards grow smaller, the options become more limited but still achievable. By fencing off around a coop run by 1-2 feet, this will keep the birds from being able to touch one another through the wire. The greater the separation, the greater the biosecurity. Many airborne respiratory diseases can travel a great distance, so this is why it is so important.

If you do not have a second coop, then use either a large dog cage or pop-up pet tent under the veranda or in the carport.

If you plan on taking your poultry to shows it is important to remember that they will be in close proximity to other poultry who may have health issues that went undiagnosed. And you need to assume the same for your poultry, too.

Two weeks before a show, isolate your chosen birds from the main flock.Monitor them for all health issues as well as for show pampering.

Two weeks after a show, keep your birds in isolation and monitor for any new introduced issues.

This is the safest way to keep your flock safe and healthy.Just remember that these periods of isolation for showing may disrupt the pecking order slightly.

Inspect poultry daily and isolate birds at the first signs of illness.

Report unusual signs of illness to a veterinarian or ring the Emergency Animal Disease Watch hotline on 1800 675 888.

Discuss vaccination of poultry with a veterinarian as it is a specialised task.

Do not allow other animals, especially wild birds, to have contact with your poultry. Use good shed design, fencing and hygienic feeding practices to keep wild birds separate from your poultry.

Do not allow poultry to have access to water used by wild waterbirds.

Ensure poultry feed and water sources cannot be contaminated by waterbirds or other animals, pests and rodents.

Chlorinate water from dams or rivers before giving to poultry. Test bore water for suitability for use with poultry.

Make sure your hands, clothes and footwear are clean before having contact with poultry.

Limit visitors to your birds. Ensure visitors to your poultry wear clean clothes and shoes, have clean hands and have not had contact with other poultry on the same day.

Keep your equipment and poultry enclosures clean.

Do not share equipment with other poultry owners, unless it has been thoroughly disinfected.

Moving poultry onto/off your property

Check the health of your poultry before transporting them off your property.

Do not move sick animals to a show/gathering on another property.

While at an event, use only your own feed and water containers.

Where possible, avoid handling other exhibitors' birds. If you do handle other birds, wash your hands thoroughly afterwards.

Clean and disinfect vehicles, cages and other equipment before leaving and returning to your property.

Clean all clothing before returning home after an event.

Check the health of your poultry before returning home from an event.

Isolate and observe poultry returning from events for 14 days. Call a veterinarian if you see any signs of illness.

Chicken Hotel - Boarding Coops?

A chicken hotel (boarding coop) situation flies in the face of good biosecurity of which I am an avid supporter of. I care about disease and pest management of all of my clients pets because I know that it will in turn affect my own pets if I were not careful enough.

It is far better for your birds of every kind to be kept in their own home environment not only for their health sake but also for their comfort of familiar surroundings and their type of food to keep up their good laying habits.

Minimising their stress is also vital to good health. I love to see how every backyard is different and how flocks thrive in their home environments. You can rest assured that I value your pets as much as you do.

This is just another important part of what it means to book with Adelaide Chicken Sitting Service. Home call out support.

From chicks, the pullets or fully grown hens, quarantining the new flock is important. Kate Bowers, Veterinary Medical Officer explains the length of time needed, including for those who show their chickens at judging competitions.

Author

You can take the girl out of the country but you can't take the country out of the girl. As an ex-Barossa gal now living in suburban Adelaide, South Australia, Janine Zschech is not only a serious chicken lady but a genuine advocate for self-sufficiency and education of children to the knowledge of gardening and animal rearing. Skills for life!