Thinking about the D1 and D2 systems, the D1 claims 900 lumens, and the D2 claims "70% more perceived light" - so are we saying the D2 puts out roughly 1500 lumens? Are there actual measurements that you can post?

Not sure the D2's are worth the $70 premium without some objective data - "perceived" sounds subjective to me!

I can vouch for the sturdiness of the D2s. And they are piercingly bright.

Just got back from 9k miles of San Diego to the Campbell, Dempster, Top of the World, and Denali highways and back -- the lights continue to work as installed, rock solid.

Two issues I have with the D2: overly-bulky wiring harness and the switch provided.

On the install, the D2 wiring harness is considerably more massive than the D1 setup. It has quite a lot of connectors at various places along the way that add to the bulk and make the install more complicated than the D1 would be. I could wish for a simpler arrangement, especially the location of the controller box that drives these lights to higher output. Also, with the CANBUS on my 2010 it was recommended I install with the switch as ON/OFF and the lights as HI ONLY. There was concern about tapping into the hi-beam power for a trigger source as the time.

The switch works fine, but doesn't hold up so well to off-road dust. Mine got fiddly during the first day of this year's Pacific Northwest Rally in WA during my trip. It's mostly worked out since, but doesn't turn on/off as reliably as new. If find myself checking the indicator light to determine the switch status whenever I operate it.

They do fill in the road a bit, but I already have a HID main beam. It's difficult to see much difference from the driver's seat other than the close fill-in. I think they'd be really nice to have if the main ever failed. Everyone I ride with remark at the visibility of the bike though -- really gets everyone's attention from a long ways off!

Mr. Ed's Moto is willing to put together a group buy on the D2 sets.
The required amout to make this work is 10 sets.
We are currently discussing with Twisted Throttle about this.
More info will be posted soon.

Thinking about the D1 and D2 systems, the D1 claims 900 lumens, and the D2 claims "70% more perceived light" - so are we saying the D2 puts out roughly 1500 lumens? Are there actual measurements that you can post?

Not sure the D2's are worth the $70 premium without some objective data - "perceived" sounds subjective to me!

Thanks!

Steve

I am no lighting expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Kidding - I had a long talk with the engineer who designed this system and he explained the differences to me. Lumens is actually a marketing standard used that is very misleading.

Lumens is actually measured at the SOURCE of the light BEFORE the lens. There is a substantial difference in the quality of light generated once focused and amplified by the lens. We (Twisted Throttle) made the mistake of following the industry with our D1 system and using Lumens in our advertisements. This doesn't do enough to quantify the quality and brightness of the lights. There is only minimally more Lumens in the new light. What makes them far superior is a new drive technology and more optically clear and 90% efficient lens.

The D1 and the D2 both use about the same amount of power and produce a similar number of Lumens. It is what happens once it leaves the source that makes it 70% more visible light.

It is just a matter of efficiency and throughput. I hope this helps shed some light on the differences in output - and yes, I did just say that.

OK, thanks! Since there are some folks because they have the D1's and must have the D2's, does anyone want to sell me their D1's?

Thanks!

Steve

Trust me the difference between the D1 and D2 in light output is substantial. The little snippet of text you grabbed leads me to believe you interpreted my information to mean that the d2 is just a little brighter. That could not be farther from the truth. I just want to make that clear for you and others reading this thread so there is no misunderstanding.

To install this with the Fuzeblock you would just snip the connectors off of the positive (along with the fuse) and negative lead on the existing D2 wiring harness and plug them into the Fuzeblock. Then add a 20a mini blade fuse and you are cooking with gas.

Kev

That's exactly what I would like to do, but the Fuzeblock individual circuits are only rated to 10 amps. I'm also wondering why a 20 amp inline fuse is used on the positive wire of the D2 system if the lamps are drawning only 1 amp each? Could I power the whole D2 system with a 10 amp circuit from the Fuzeblock? That would be nice.

I just installed Denali 2 LED aux lights on my 2009 R1200GS. Everything went according to plan during installation. However, when I turned on the key, the small running/parking light in the headlight bucket (where I tapped into for switched 12v power) flashed and burned out. Also, the low beam headlight flashes briefly when the key is turned on, but then immediately goes out. The Denali lights come on fine with the key on and the high-low intensity beams work as expected with the OEM high-low switch. Also, once the bike is running, everthing works fine, including the low beam lamp that briefly flashes and goes out when the key is first turned on. I haven't been able to replace the running/parking lamp yet to see if it will or will not burn out again, but I'm concerned about the on/off flashing of the low beam lamp when the key is first turned on. Any thoughts about what might be going on?? Thanks!

I just installed Denali 2 LED aux lights on my 2009 R1200GS. Everything went according to plan during installation. However, when I turned on the key, the small running/parking light in the headlight bucket (where I tapped into for switched 12v power) flashed and burned out. Also, the low beam headlight flashes briefly when the key is turned on, but then immediately goes out. The Denali lights come on fine with the key on and the high-low intensity beams work as expected with the OEM high-low switch. Also, once the bike is running, everthing works fine, including the low beam lamp that briefly flashes and goes out when the key is first turned on. I haven't been able to replace the running/parking lamp yet to see if it will or will not burn out again, but I'm concerned about the on/off flashing of the low beam lamp when the key is first turned on. Any thoughts about what might be going on?? Thanks!

Do me a favor and call our Customer Service number (401-284-4200) and hit *3 for Tech Support. Ask for Matt. He is our chief electrical trouble-shooter guy. He will do a far better job than I diagnosing the "current" condition. Get it "current".....