Go Big?

I always loved shooting archery as a kid. The question is, do I go balls out, and buy a HOYT Carbon Element? A CRX 32? These bows look MEAN as all HELL. The two questions I have are: Shouldn't I just buy once, and buy right? and if I did, would this be like a freshman taking a hooker to prom?

I haven't shot in about 25 years, so I am WAAAAY out of the game. My intentions are, target practice, turkey and deer hunting, and survival, should the zombies attack and I run out of ammo (Though me running out of ammo is not likely.... heh)

Basically, my wife says NO ! You're crazy !! I just need someone on here to tell me YES !! You're crazy NOT TO BUY IT !! Back me up fellas....

Also... I am in the Wallingford CT area. Just looking for some shout outs... and tips before I do any locale research for hands on shopping and ranges.

Welcome to the site!!

First off you will get many opinions on here about which brand of bow to buy. Most manufacture's make nice bow's today with a lot of similarities. The bow has to fit you. I look at eye appeal, weight and shortness first then if that passes then I check the draw cycle (how smoth it draws back)and also look at the brace height(distance between riser at ledge and string) and how forgiving the bow is. The faster the bow is the less forgiving it is in most cases. Don't be concerned with speed at this time. A 1500.00 dollar bow won't kill any better than a 200.00 dollar bow if it doesnít fit you.Take your time and go to many pro shop's and shoot many bows before you buy one.

Go and get yourself something that has a nice draw cycle and set the poundage down to start with.It'll take some time for your body to get bow fit again (after 25 years)and once this happens you can shoot anything you like.if you don't like the fit and the feel of your new toy then you aren't going to want to use it and a $1500.00 bow will make a nice wall hanging and the misses will remind you everytime she see's it how much it cost!As we get older the Aim of the game is to enjoy yourself and kick the little punks a$$es every chance we get!!!!LOL

Ant, your situation sounds almost exactly like mine! Fiberglass 30# bow when I was a kid (way back!), and trying to figure out what to get on limited budget. One of my problems has been the time and distance it takes to try out different bows. One shop will have only Bowtech, another shop only PSE, etc. For me, closest Hoyt dealer is about 70 miles away, so I have not seen a Hoyt bow yet. Keep us posted on what you decide.

You think the carbon bow is nice or the elite I just got the hoyt vector turbo and wow black riser camo limbs but the 6 inch brace hight might not be for you for me I do better with them been shooting 35 years no break.

First and foremost is getting measured for draw length. Then look at bows that are adjustable at least 1" shorter than this measurement, up and down
1". 2" would be even better as most people seem to shoot too long a draw anyway. Being able to adjust a module without having to change cams can save a lot of headaches and money in the long run.

Next I would advise not overbowing yourself, meaning don't go too high on draw weight. Many people get caught up in numbers and think that the more kinetic energy a bow produces the better it will kill. This is far from the truth. What's more important is being able to shoot accurately and that means that to learn how to shoot properly you should not have to struggle with the bow.

It's no secret that a bow must be aesthetically appealing to a person. If you like the looks then you're more likely to shoot better in the first place. Every bow maker has good bows so this should not be an issue. Take your time and try many. You might find that the most expensive models just aren't what you thought they might be.

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Here's what I think !

Originally Posted by bfisher

First and foremost is getting measured for draw length. Then look at bows that are adjustable at least 1" shorter than this measurement, up and down
1". 2" would be even better as most people seem to shoot too long a draw anyway. Being able to adjust a module without having to change cams can save a lot of headaches and money in the long run.

Next I would advise not overbowing yourself, meaning don't go too high on draw weight. Many people get caught up in numbers and think that the more kinetic energy a bow produces the better it will kill. This is far from the truth. What's more important is being able to shoot accurately and that means that to learn how to shoot properly you should not have to struggle with the bow.

It's no secret that a bow must be aesthetically appealing to a person. If you like the looks then you're more likely to shoot better in the first place. Every bow maker has good bows so this should not be an issue. Take your time and try many. You might find that the most expensive models just aren't what you thought they might be.

Westy should of got this info , would of saved him some headaches and money !

OK, So am new to this forum and this is my first post here but donít think what I am going to say is coming from a rookie. I have been shooting for many many years in comp and hunting. First and foremost you need to research your local shops. If you have never repaired a bow then you will need some help with set-up, adjustments and general knowledge of when things are wearing out. You also will need a source for consumables like : arrows, string and cables, loops, ect..... If your local shop wonít or canít work on the bow you buy then you will have to send it out and that cost more as well as I don't want anyone touching my bow that I donít know and trust. So shop your locals and get all the info you can. PSE, Mathews, Hoyt ect... all good. see what your locals have that fits you and enjoy.

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