The perfect...

You know why I love coleslaw so much? Because I agree with the great American cookery writer James Beard that 'it is as old as cabbage and has known many different versions - and strangely enough, practically all of them are good.' You can make perfect coleslaw just by shredding or chopping cabbage, and mixing it with mayo and seasoning. But why stop there? Some carrot and onion? Sure thing. Or even a grated apple; but no other fruit, puh-leeze. Nor will I reach for my Uzi if you add dill, caraway or poppy seed. The crucial cole-culations are dental resistance and choice of dressing. Crunch-lovers should shred, toss and eat tout de suite. Softies should steam the cabbage briefly, or make the slaw well in advance, so acid and water can do their work. You decide.

On the dressing front, it's a choice between bottled mayo and something fancier. A 50-50 split of mayo and sour cream is good. So is vinaigrette with a little mustard. But, if there's time, a cooked dressing is my first choice. Email me (rmeno2@aol.com), or send an SAE, and I'll send back a specimen recipe. You don't strictly need it. But you'll like it.