The ‘Cosby Sweater’ phenomenon

Malcolm Jamal-Warner, whose most memorable role during his 30-year acting career is probably the character of Theo Huxtable, has a recurring role on the NBC comedy “Community.” In one episode, he leans against the column of a building, staring off into the night. “Nice sweater,” another “Community” character sarcastically quips, eyeing Warner’s unconventional blue acrylic knit. “Thanks,” says Warner softly. “My dad gave it to me.”

There is no need to explain the humor of this moment to anyone who watched television in the 1980s and ’90s. The phrase “Cosby sweater” has become a cultural touchstone, a nod to a beloved American icon and his so-bad-they’re-good knitwear, a cozy little inside-fashion joke as harmless and satisfying as a Jell-O Pudding Pop. Say the words “Cosby sweater” to anyone old enough to remember buying a CD in a music store and an image will immediately be summoned, one of Bill Cosby as Dr. Heathcliff Huxtable, practitioner of obstetrical medicine, husband to Claire, father of five, wearer of eyeball-melting sweaters.

(Photo: NBC)

As Collector’s Weekly tells it, the origins of these gaudy yet lovable sweaters began when the costume department found itself in a bit of a multi-level crisis. Any costumer will tell you that an essential function of the clothes is to communicate something about the character, to augment their personality and individual storyline. Dr. Huxtable needed an “off-duty” wardrobe for hanging out at home that was in contrast to his serious white lab coats. Designer Sarah Lemire initially envisioned him in suits or the navy-blazer-khakis-penny-loafers look. But it felt too stiff. With the show’s large cast, there were often five, six, seven people in a scene at one time, and Lemire felt it was important that no character wear the same color. Someone would have to wear a printed pattern, which created its own set of problems with television cameras at that time. The wrong kind of stripe or yarn-stitching technique could cause unwanted strobing effects, so something with a flatter weave and anarchistic pattern was needed. Add to all of this the fact that it was important for Cosby to look and feel comfortable and relaxed.

(Photo: NBC)

Not having a huge budget to work with, Lemire recalls various businesses in the garment district, the house of Missoni in particular, generously loaning out sweaters in the early days. As the show gained momentum, sweaters became more avant garde as more designers jumped in, particularly Dutch designer Van Den Akker, and a “Cosby sweater look” began to form. Over time, multiple textures, colors, and patterns at play in the same garment became the norm. Van Den Akker recalls hearing the phrase “Cosby sweater” for the first time while watching the film “High Fidelity,” and he was thrilled. “A Bill Cosby sweater stands for ‘crazy,’ ” he says, “and I love it.”