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Hey guys. I just got done assembling one of BKBT's awesome dented Jango helmets and tried to document the progress along the way. I'll post the pics first and then add the comment/explanations when I can find time. Here are the pics for now (the progress flows across)...

What are those posts you're using for the visor called? I recently did one of these and i loved them.

They're called brad hole tee nuts and can be found in packs of two at Lowes or bought online. I like using the 6-32 size. I usually order them online from fastenerline.com or monsterfastener.com because I use them for the ear pieces as well.

I'm looking at this, and I get the premise, though, the part where you actually attach the female-end of the brad hole nuts, are you recessing them into the fiberglass? Or how are you attaching them?

The two t-nuts at the base are recessed in shallow channels to hide them because they're located so close to the edge. The others are just glued into place using the yellow label CA glue. First they're just tacked in place using the visor as the guide, then I carefully remove the visor and secure them with more glue. I initially tack in place the top four while they're on the visor.

The two t-nuts at the base are recessed in shallow channels to hide them because they're located so close to the edge. The others are just glued into place using the yellow label CA glue. First they're just tacked in place using the visor as the guide, then I carefully remove the visor and secure them with more glue. I initially tack in place the top four while they're on the visor.

Also, in one pic you'll see a brass washer between the t-nut and visor. The washer is just there as a spacer to keep the visor from getting too close to any glue that might spread up when tacking down the t-nuts. It's removed later.

Also, in one pic you'll see a brass washer between the t-nut and visor. The washer is just there as a spacer to keep the visor from getting too close to any glue that might spread up when tacking down the t-nuts. It's removed later.

The outer surface is aluminum cold cast, and then that is backed with fiberglass cloth and resin.

Here are a few in progress paint pictures. After covering the inside of the visor also with tape, I draw light lines with a sharpened pencil using the contour of the check to guide the pencil to separate the two areas. Then I use 1/8" blue stripers tape to tape off the part that will remain CC and fill it in with blue painters tape.
Then I use the same stripers tape to tape around the rf curve and place small pieces of tan masking tape (stickier) in small sections as I go to hold down the stripers tape.
When that's done I mask off the rest of the areas with the tan tape and newspaper.

When painting, I keep the coat thin and paint the areas that are going to be blue to give me a smooth surface for the lighter blue. I prefer to do the darker blue first so that the lighter blue is raised a bit and because it's easier to tape off the darker blue sections later using the 1/8" stripers tape and following the contours.

Also, a note on the ear pieces. Usually even after sanding, little air bubbles and small dots randomly form where the paint will not stick. So I usually spay a thin coat, and then use my finger to lightly rub those areas filling in the small bubbles with the paint. Then I go back and give the ear pieces a second and thicker coat that will smooth everything out and makes the paint stick in those initial troublesome areas.

After this, I won't touch the helmet for an entire week. This is very hard to do but critical to minimize tape indentions when taping off for the second color. However, I will probably bring it inside the house after it has aired for a few days due to the cold outside temperatures. In the meantime, I prep the rf and paint it as soon as possible. Hope this information can help someone.