Hahn Turbo – Installation, support and general comments

Awesome @Soluga ! I see you tried to get to me about the MAP sensors. Hopefully you got that taken care of. I had 240 hours of man power per week at work and we have been running over 300-400 each week. Been crazy. Good luck!

Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

1. They think they can connect their turner to the ECU... I mentioned that this forum suggested otherwise. They want to try2. Kit well thought out, at least at this stage.3. Not sure about heat from exhaust, they might need to fab sometime for heat.4. Changing plugs and changing to new oil type5. Get new wheels and wider tires. Rear at least.6. Consider a brake upgrade7. No meth kit now as they think i should have enough HP's

1. They think they can connect their turner to the ECU... I mentioned that this forum suggested otherwise. They want to try (Stock ECU/NOPE ..AEM piggyback/YES)2. Kit well thought out, at least at this stage. (Yup)3. Not sure about heat from exhaust, they might need to fab sometime for heat. (Nope)4. Changing plugs and changing to new oil type (Use what Hahn recommends for a while at least) 5. Get new wheels and wider tires. Rear at least. (Up to you, won't really help, just need to drive it for a while to learn throttle control)6. Consider a brake upgrade (Only need better pads)7. No meth kit now as they think i should have enough HP's (Agreed, just adds complexity and another point of failure while screwing up tune, again just drive it for a while)

I went with the Hahn StreetRace exhaust and baffles. A little louder than I'd prefer since most of my rides have me leaving after dark and returning after a lot of the neighbors have gone to bed.The Hahn exhaust has greatly reduced cockpit heat.I used NGK 92182 Iridium plugs since they were recommended by a forum member based on a conversation with an NGK rep for turbo use. IIRC, Hahn recommends the NGK 4306 plugs set to .030, but I was concerned about that recommended gap since that is a significant reduction from the 4306's standard .050 gap.

On a side note - does anybody have experience with both the Hahn StreetRace and Side exhausts? Just wondering how the two compare sound-wise? To me, the Side exhaust looks to use a smaller muffler and I wonder if it will be quieter?

Just saw a comment on Amazon about the Innovate SCG-1 from a purchaser who had contacted Innovate for assistance in setting the SCG-1 up to control boost at pressures below 10 psi and said he was basically told he was SOL trying to get it to work below 10 psi.

Closer.... All the pieces installed and the machine was fired up today! Gauges all hooked up as well. Thanks @SaltyClownNY for sending along Bill's tune file. They now have to finish up some minor wiring etc before it goes onto the dyno, perhaps tomorrow or early next week.

Closer.... All the pieces installed and the machine was fired up today! Gauges all hooked up as well. Thanks @SaltyClownNY for sending along Bill's tune file. They now have to finish up some minor wiring etc before it goes onto the dyno, perhaps tomorrow or early next week.

@Soluga, Was the gas strut for the extended-range hood hinge removed for the turbo install or did you deliberately choose not to use it? IIRC, the installation instructions for that hinge say use of the gas cartridge is optional. Just wondering how/if that affects the operation of the hinge?

I did look at the blowoff valve adjustments. Mine was fine out of the box. Most things I didn't have to mess with. Very excited for you. What kind of exhaust did they put on? Hahn's? Be interesting to see if you get any smoke. To my knowledge, we've had a hit or miss on smoke. Seems like it's due to engine pressure. VERY interested in how much they tweak bills tune file if at all. I'm running mine in 2X and have hit upwards of 9.5 PSI for short distances. Have been doing a bunch of 1/4 mile timings to see if it makes a difference, although 40-120 may be more accurate. Don't want to run the 9+ PSI for too long with a stock engine. Haven't had an issue as of yet, but maybe I've just gotten lucky. Definitely shaved some seconds off the 1/4 mile though.

@rabtech, @'StickerDick', others... - Just out of curiosity... in your opinion, what is the design of the machine capable of? It's not a drag race machine and definitely limitations on weight to rear tire gripping instead of spinning. Robert spoke about tire spin in another post. I had a MT drag tire on mine... think Robert put the same one on his for a bit... probably already melted it, but I had several instances where it gripped so much I ended up smoking my clutch. Maybe user error, don't know (know I don't like the stock clutch now). Point is, I'm not trying to get the fastest 1/4 mile time as it's not designed for that... just using it as a gauge for how far I can push the machine in it's current state and what else I can tweak to do more. I'd shoot for fastest 40-120 time, but I seem to always run out of road... I mean track . What are you getting for the 1/4 and 1/2 mile times? Alpha posted some time ago an 11.65 @ 114 MPH with a stock block. Don't know if that is wishful thinking or not, but fastest I've had is low 14's which I'm a bit disappointed with. I'd be much happier with 12's and very happy with 11's. You guys are pushing so much more PSI than I am and not sure what you have been seeing.

Need to make a track day with you all someday!

Anyone recommend the model and best head bolts to use on the stock engine? ... new clutch LOL...

Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

Just out of curiosity... in your opinion, what is the design of the machine capable of?

Im probably not the guy to answer this. I have probably been lucky. I have only had one issue with my final drive and IT WAS MY FAULT. I was on a rough ass road and lit the rear tire up while turning. The back tire had a drag slick on it and it hammered across the rough pavement. I noticed right after that i could hear a faint clicking or knocking from the final. You have to remember I had it spinning probably 60mph when it went across the holes in the road. Not much can take that...I drove it for another 300 miles and gave it hell the whole time. I finally got around to changing it the other day and put a new one in just so I didnt hurt the original one any more than the clicking it was making. I believe it is the input bearing. If so, it will be a cheap repair.

I haven't had time to pull it apart yet and service it. I did drain the oil and it was still purplish and clean as new. The magnet on the plug didnt even have a metal on it. So I believe Its not that bad.

They are tough little vehicles. I have not had any other issues with stuff breaking. And like I said ,,, That was my fault , i should have known it was a rough spot in the turn.

Thanks @rabtech. Yeah, I need to figure out the tire thing. I read a post of yours about watching orders and making sure you know what you are driving over. I've noticed in update NY and the cold weather we have, hard to keep the tire stuck to the ground no matter what you do. Need to figure out the clutch issue and it not grabbing as fast as I need it too as well. Others have spoken about the Hahn Turbo having issues with shifting quickly and sounds like it's an issue.

My comment above was more so about the design being of 1 wheel in the back and it's ability to push a light vehicle. Did you all note the 1/4 mile times or speeds when you were doing the 1/2 miles?

Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

@SaltyClownNY you will get a feel for your machine soon enough. After a while you will learn where and when it will brake loose. Depending on your tire sometimes you can actually smell when it comes loose. But I have a butt load of power and rarely get squirly unless I am showing off. I run a summer compound tire all year round and it is very sensitive to cold and wet.

If you get a chance to do a track day when we are on a road course - it will be a valuable learning experience.

I thought I have been exercising sufficient caution when riding on wet roads, especially since i now run a 315/35R17 on the rear. Last night, I was returning home during a ride and my Daughter was waiting for me to get home so we could catch up on some Tivo'd shows. I encountered some rain and had slowed down significantly to around 40-45 mph, but when I hit some ponding on the Interstate, I ended up briefly going sorta sideways and into the lane to my left. I had already moved over one lane from the right-most lane just to have a little more room if I started sliding. Fortunately, there was no traffic in the left lane next to me, but there was somebody approaching in the right-most lane who probably was as startled as I was when I started skidding sideways. After quickly regaining control, I too the next exit to use the service road, but here in Texas, the service roads often tend to flood. The rain lessened and I got back on the Interstate util I hit another patch of rain and returned to the service road. Normally, I would have simply pulled over under an overpass or other cover, but I was in a hurry, even if I did slow down. Just goes to show light vehicle+wide tires=poor wet handling!

@SaltyClownNY I bought the SidePipes Dual Exhaust from Hahn. The tune you sent me from Bill yesterday was used and currently no smoking is taking place. Although they started it with the factory tune and their place filled with smoke!

You mentioned something about fast shifting, is this a concern because of traction issues or something else?

@SaltyClownNY I bought the SidePipes Dual Exhaust from Hahn. The tune you sent me from Bill yesterday was used and currently no smoking is taking place. Although they started it with the factory tune and their place filled with smoke!

You mentioned something about fast shifting, is this a concern because of traction issues or something else?

The initial theory was that the Welter rear pipe was changing the pressure in the engine a bit as it's longer than stock. Installing a PCV valve fixed it in two slings. There were some installs with the Hahn pipe that this did not happen too... so it was thought to be an issue just with the folks using the Welter pipes. But then all bets were off when a Hahn pipe started doing it. Personally, I would install the PCV valve either way just to have it in place. The smoking happened initially just as you stated as things are burning off. The second round for some were after running it for a while then shutting it down and letting it sit for 10 or so minutes and then starting it up while the oil pooled. So to my knowledge, there was no clear cause for the issue, only that the fix seemed to work for all. Quite frankly, by taking the stock one out, I think it best to have one put back anyway. Easy and cheep fix. I say Easy, but I had a huge issue as the dam threads to the adapter wouldn't start threading correctly and I ended up getting pissed and removed the entire cold air intake side. I'm on meds now, so better

Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

Some information from the dyno today. Guys at the shop are very impressed about the power change and mentioned the power to weight ratio is way better than my SRT8. Anyhow i should get this back soon... I hope....

Narrative from the installer:

Your original baseline was exactly 16% power loss from crank
to wheel horse power which is a great comparison. You hit 241whp
after the tune which puts you at 279hp at the crank. And because your
Slingshot weighs less than 1 Ton. This give you a power to weight ratio
of 320hp / ton. at the crank. And from the comparison,
You gained 100hp and 87lbtq! at 7 - 9 lbs of boost.

Now the question is, are they making any adjustments and if so, to the piggyback? Are you in stage 2x for that? I would think not. I believe Bill claimed 250 HP at the wheel. DDM was saying they were getting on average 12.5 HP for each PSI of boost. Bills was pushing peak of 8 for the stage 1, so that "should" give you between 80-100 HP added to the machine. I believe stock is 176... I think... So it should be a peak of 256-276HP at the wheel. My take is that Bill may have been on the "safe" side and probably didn't put that much time into the tune... don't know that, but a hunch. If you put stage 2, it will push it to just under 10, so should add another 20-25HP. I was hoping that someone could verify Bills tune.

I can't see the entire graph, but looks like the stock is coming in at just under 150HP at the wheel? Is that the case? If that is true, then the system is pushing an added 90HP, so 11.25/PSI. Almost what DDM was claiming. This is all assuming you are at stage 1 though.

Thanks for the info!

Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

Yes 150HP for the stock run as reflected in the graph. They have not adjusted anything from the tune file you provided me for the turbo run. (The file Bill provided you) I have requested the PSI, AFR and a better Power graph for the turbo run so hope to get this shortly. From what i saw on the PSI front it was steady at 7.X PSI until 6K RPM and topped out at 9PSI. Not sure about Stage level but will ask.