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Hi all, I am considering the SN 95 swap for my 83 convertible (it was originally a V6 car, but it now has a V.

Can I use the complete rear differential from a 94/95 GT, plus all the front wheel components (spindles, hubs, calipers, discs, etc)? I understand I would need a 93 cobra booster with a 94/95 MC, can I use a 93 Booster/ MC combo as well?

Will this setup work with 03 Bullit wheels without them sticking out or the center caps not fitting?

IMHO DO NOT use the 93 Cobra Booster with your set up. I have both in my 79 PC and the brake pedal has little travel and a very hard, difficult to modulate pedal. More of that is due to the 93 Cobra MC, but the booster is not worth the headaches of install IMHO.

A good stock Fox booster (key being a good working unit! ) and your stock MC can work very well with the setup you have. You will HAVE to disable the OEM proportioning valve and install an aftermarket adjustable unit for the rear discs, but other than that it should work fine. The OEM M/C is 21mm or @ 7/8" so the pedal travel is good with a good feel once everything is bleed and adjusted properly. The 94/95 Cobra 15/16" MC will feel very similar and the 93 Cobra MC 1" bore will give you a bit harder pedal with less travel in most cases.

No center cap issues with the SN95 front hubs and spindles. That issue has to do with the OEM spindles/rotor setup or similar swaps such as the Lincoln, Ranger, SVO.

The 03 Bullitt wheels should be 17X8 with a 30mm offset IIRC, and they will fit pretty well in the rear with the 94-98 rear axle assembly. You will still want to roll the rear fender lips for clearance to be sure, especially depending on tire size. Good Luck!

I personally am not a fan of camber bolts, your opinion may vary. I personally install Maximum Motorsports CC Plates on all my Foxes and I have no issues with getting them aligned and ALL my Foxes run SN95 spindles and brakes.

​Trey

"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

If you change from your current 60mm front calipers to the 1994-95 Mustang GT/V6 66mm calipers, this will be an increase in caliper piston area of 21%. To maintain the same brake pedal effort and travel, you therefore need to increase the m/c piston area by the same percentage.

Starting with a 21mm m/c, this means that you need to change to a 15/16" m/c. This is a 29% change which is the closest choice.

For the 1979-93 cars a lot of the camber changes are from the repositioned holes in the k-member. Some of the changes are from the upper strut mount.

If the camber of the car is changing with mileage, then it is almost definitely from FCA bushing deformation. The rubber strut mounts might be responsible for some of it, but the FCA bushings should be the majority cause.

With my project, absolutely everything was either new or entirely rebuilt. New A arm bushings, balljoints, struts, springs, etc.

I believe factors that may have contributed are the narrower K member found in the 86 combined with using X2 ballpoints.

Another factor may have been that I initially removed the spring compressor once the A arm was supported with a jack at the ballpoint and it may have been too low when I initially torqued the strut bolts.

I did try loosening up the strut bolts and preloading them for as much negative camber as possible but still did not have enough adjustment available and my tires were rubbing with the strut tipped all the way in.

I considered looking at a longer A arm but luckily a friend was able to drop by and we sorted it out.

If you change from your current 60mm front calipers to the 1994-95 Mustang GT/V6 66mm calipers, this will be an increase in caliper piston area of 21%. To maintain the same brake pedal effort and travel, you therefore need to increase the m/c piston area by the same percentage.

Starting with a 21mm m/c, this means that you need to change to a 15/16" m/c. This is a 29% change which is the closest choice.

I have a question, on my 84 gt do I need to swap out my front lower control arms to 87-93. I seen that if you install cobra front brakes, you need to change out the control arms because the 84 K-member width is shorter than the 87-93. I'm having problems with my outer tie rods bottoming out with the inner tie rods.

1994-95 I had the 1996 before the switch. The car had manual steering when I bought the car, so I put a five lug kit from Dallas mustang. The kit came with the PBR brakes with 1996 spindles. I installed a power rack along with the 1994 spindles, 13 inch cobra and a bumpsteer that I got from someone on here and now have the passenger wheel out to the right or left if looking in front of the car the driver side wheel looks straight. The steering wheel is centered, the outer tie rod has bottomed out with the thread inner rod and I have counted how more turns each side has and it's ok. I also have c/c plates. Oh, my car 1984 gt.

Ok. Heres my question. I want to go 5 lug. May use Cobra Rs not sure yet. However, Im running a manual brake setup with the frpp proportioning valve. Can I still use 4wdb? I dont want to get rid of the manual brakes due to weight savings and other reasons.

Y'all, I'm still not getting what I need to buy based on the first post with all the options. Sorry to be that guy that needs to be spoon fed the info, but I can't seem to figure it out on my own based on the info listed.

I don't understand how to massage the driver strut tower properly. Is this a cut & weld, grind, etc.? It says to not hit with a BFH.
What parts do I need to make the current parts fit in the car, or what parts need to be replaced to make what I have workable? New lines, fittings, etc.

I am building a widebody car, so I will have to buy new wheels anyway. Someone mentioned hub sizes, etc., so I believe I will be buying SN95 based sizes already to fit the new width of the car.

Since you are using a 1992 vacuum booster, you will not need to do anything to the strut tower.

The 1992 m/c diameter is going to be too small for use with the brake calipers that are going on the car. The brake pedal will have a lot of travel and be very soft. I would use the m/c linked below with the installation kit linked below it.