I climbed the East Face and East Buttress with John Oliver over a July weekend in 1981. I was entering my junior year and John his senior year at Harvey Mudd College. After finishing another week of summer chemistry research, we left Claremont, California on a Friday evening. We slept in Whitney Portal and then backpacked up to East Face Lake. We quickly gathered our climbing gear and rope, arriving at the notch behind the first tower in the mid-afternoon. We then witnessed a short-haul extraction of an injured climber directly across from us on the lower east face by the China Lake Mountain Rescue Group. There was little margin for error as the helicopter blade tips appeared to be only feet from the vertical rock face. We completed the route in the waning light and then descended the Mountaineer Route back to our lake campsite. The next day we climbed the East Buttress and returned to Claremont Sunday night. We were back in the lab on Monday.

Our climb was almost fifty years to the date of the first ascent by Glen Dawson, Jules Eichorn, Norman Clyde and Robert Underhill on August 16, 1931. I had the pleasure of a lifetime meeting Glen Dawson at 103 years old in December, 2015. Mr. Dawson died a few months later just shy of his 104th birthday.

After probably 10 years I finally climbed the E-face again. Very enjoyable and leisurely. We had at least a 1.5hr siesta on the big ledge before the Fresh Air Traverse observing a slower party work their way up.

Great views and unforgettable day. The route is not that sustained, but fun. Would be more enjoyable if I was able to get more than an hour of sleep before starting to hike. Drive from bay area sucks!!! Down via MR which had water ice perfect for ice climbing on one side. Had to downclimb the rock buttress.

The bear at the Portal is getting pretty bold. While my partner and myself were sitting in his truck with the windows down waiting for Kurt, this bear leans into the bed and sniff around rocking the truck a bit. We turned the light on but didn't see anything. Sat there in the dark for a few more minutes and it happens again. This time we caught him with a flashlight and realized what was happening. Made off with one of my water bottles out of my pack. My pack was in the bed of the truck about 12" behind me. Still can't believe we didn't hear him.

Climbed the East Face as an after thought to Fishhook Arete on Russell with Luis and Dave.

Bivy'ed at the portal Friday. Hiked to Iceberg Lake Saturday. Left camp for E. Face @ 3:30pm. The three of us climbed with double ropes. I had a great time leading the Fresh-Air Traverse. Summited a little after 8pm. Headed down the Mtnrs Route and saw the International Space Station fly by at 9:07pm. Exhausted back at camp at 9:30pm. I was feeling sick and not sure if I could do Russell the next day but agreed to see how I felt in the morning.

Dave woke us 5:07 for Fishhook, I smoked a cig as the sky began to lighten up and I contemplated life...still in my bivy. Finished cig..."Lets do it."

Fishhook was Awesome! Lead 1st, 4th, & 7th pitch. Loved the first.

Back to camp at 3pm. Time to head back to car. 6:30pm, back at car...legs are done!

climbed with buddy tyler, climbing partner of 20 yrs. mellow grade. lots of snow and loose rocks. exposure on pitch 1 and Fresh Air. great weather. came down MR and basecamp at Iceberg Lake. did Fishhook the next day since we didnt feel tired after East Face. talked to 2 rangers that did east face next day, sunday 28th

Made a decision to do this on a lark while a beach BBQ was winding down in Venice Beach. Hopped in the car at 10 p.m., got a few hours zzzs and went for it. An exciting day. Vivid memories of my feet cutting loose in the easy chimney at the end of the Fresh Air Traverse, both hands grapping a chockstone and feeling it wobble in my hands. A great route, but next time I go back with a rope.