Peter Copping is a sensualist. He likes a pot of flowers on the balcony, champagne in the bucket, and the exquisite coloring of his Siamese cats. "They have the most beautiful eyes," says the artistic director of Nina Ricci, the French fashion house known for L'Air du Temps perfume and, in the past, clothes for society ladies. Copping is relaxing that model of femininity. In recent collections, fabrics were light, washed, and crinkled, and silhouettes were sized up. He slits skirts up to the thigh and uses strict tailoring methods to create a look of nonchalance. "It's ready-to-wear that harks back to a couture aesthetic," he says. The British designer strolls the streets of Paris, searching for examples of the "off-kilter" style he admires. "The grannies are particularly well turned out," he says. "Playfulness can be quite appealing."