Lyttelton, N.Z. from the Bridle Path

Lyttelton from the saddle on the Bridle Path,
January 2008 with the weed broom in the foreground going to seed. This plant is prohibited from propagation, sale and distribution!
Soon the broom will be a mass of yellow flowers.

The maritime township of
Lyttelton with stone
graving dock (a
dry
dock where the hulls of ships are repaired and maintained was opened in
1883), patent slips, and Timeball Station
extends around the foreshore and up the Port Hills which divide it from
Christchurch was founded in 1849 on the north shore of Port Cooper, the old
name, for the picturesque
harbour Lyttelton Harbour. The
harbour
is a drowned extinct volcano crater with an average width of two miles. The
entrance is a nautical mile wide is on the north-west side of banks Peninsula,
running in a direction of south-west by west, for seven miles. The
first European vessel to enter the port was the Pegasus about 1809. In
1839, Captain Wiseman, of the Sydney firm Cooper and Levy, named the port, Port
Cooper, and it became a regular visiting place for traders and whalers. For
years the place was known as Cavendish Bay, Port Victoria or Erskine Bay. The port has been enhanced by reclamation and breakwaters and the
road tunnel which opened in 1962. The first steamer to enter the port was H.M.S.
Acheron, in 1848. The first iron ship built in New Zealand was built here in
1864. The streets are generally steep. London Street, Norwich Quay and Oxford
Street are the main business streets.
Today it is still the main
port for
Canterbury, New Zealand and had adapted to container shipping with the
railway coming on to the wharf. The rail tunnel was opened in 1867 and is 10
chains more than a mile and a-half long and this was the first railway line opened
in New Zealand. Lyttelton to Wellington by sea is a distance of 175
miles. Captain Graeves was the first harbour master. Captain J. Sproule was
harbour master in 1863. Captain T. Wycherley was lessee of the Government Jetty
in 1863.
Historical tug
map

The Port Hills: Looking towards Lyttelton Harbour, in the summer of January,
2008. The Bridal Path is a steep trail on both sides with bench seats and the
conical memorial shelter in the saddle. In the foreground there is tussock,
dandelions and fescue grass. The grey area will be the native thorny shrub
matagourie. The horses had to be led by the bridle to the summit - hence the
name Bridle Path.

'The Press', Christchurch, 31/12/1996, p.21
by Mark Pickering

"The Bridle Path is a steep track, built in a hurry over the Xmas period of
1850-51. It was completed in the second week of January 1851. In 1851, the
Bridle Path was an object of fear, scorn and loathing. After 5 months at sea,
pioneer European settlers were itching to get on to the promised land, but the
Port Hills seemed of Himalayan proportions. Their luggage was piling up on the
Lyttelton foreshore, without even a horse and cart to get to Christchurch. The
prospect of hauling their baggage over the hill was dismaying, and to the
frustrated settlers, Lyttelton seemed a prison. Captain
Joseph Thomas was the principal surveyor and overseer of works for the
Canterbury Association. He was given the job of preparing the settlement for the
new immigrants. This meant surveying the new towns of Lyttelton and
Christchurch, building storehouses and temporary accommodation blocks for the
settlers, and cutting a dray road through to the plains from the port. For the
road, he had logically chosen the line of Evans pass, a low pass of only 193 metres, but the road construction in 1849 proved hard and frustratingly slow.
The road had to be cut out of volcanic rock walls and edged around steep bluffs.
After a year, Captain Thomas had spent most of the
Association's money, and the 'Sumner Road' was still not finished. With the
settlers due to arrive in December, there was an urgent need for some sort of
access pathway, and a fund was put towards the 'Bridle-road' which would be
made passable for horses at least. It was a tight finish. Charles Torlesse
started to survey the road on November 3, 1850 and the Charlotte Jane, the first
of the immigrant ships, arrived on December 16.
Every early account of the path makes it sound like an endurance test of a
settler's soul. "After dinner, I and another commenced the ascent of the hill
between port and Christchurch,' says one account. "We had not gone far before we
put our knapsacks on the back of the pack-horse that goes over the hill every
day. It is indeed an awful pull up that hill; yet we were so anxious to see what
was on the other side of it that we scarcely noticed the fatigue ....
So we continued to climb, panting and broiling in the afternoon sun, and much
admiring the lovely view beneath. At last we near the top .... I must confess
that the view, though undoubtedly fine, rather disappointed me.
Today it is hard to imagine what all the fuss was about. Most
people could walk the path in three hours, but for the early settlers it was
almost a two day journey to Christchurch. Three months on board a ship hardly
prepared a person for a strenuous life in the colonies. Some people
walked around the ship for exercise from time to time, but that was not
encouraged, and probably thought rather odd. Among middle class Victorian women
there was a culture of 'delicateness' and 'frailness', a sensibility exasperated
by tight corsets and broad crinolines.
From the start, the Bridle Path name was optimistic, as most
settlers quickly realised. Once over the pass settlers had to follow around the
margins of the swampy Heathcote Estuary to the Ferry (Ferrymead), where 'the traveller finds a cluster of newly erected temporary huts, and a ferry boat kept
by Mr Hughes, who will put him across the river for 6d'. The road from Ferrymead
to Christchurch was properly started in February 1851, with a road gang of '60
Englishman and 40 Maoris'. The route was mostly toe toe, thick grass, and
cabbage trees, leading to the bare site of Christchurch - where you pitched your
tent.
Any walker today can see why the Bridle Path was
unsatisfactory from the beginning. It is just too steep. In November 1856, the
'Lyttelton Times' asked for suggestions to solve the vexed 'roading problem',
and Letters to the Editor ran hot. One example : 'You wish for my opinion on the
easiest mode of transit from the port to the plains?' said one writer. 'Try
early rising ....' Although there was a daily pack-horse over the path in 1851,
most people shifted their heavier luggage by boat over the estuary bar and up
the Avon or Heathcote rivers. There is no evidence that any settler was game
enough to take a piano over the Bridle Path. The path was gradually improved and
turned laboriously into a 'road'. The first 'spring cart loaded with luggage was
drawn over it by bullocks on March 17, 1857'.
An entrepreneur set up a refreshment stall selling ginger
beer on the pass in November 1851. Evans Pass was not finally pushed through
until 1857. Although the main horse and cart traffic went that way, people still
regularly used the Bridle Path as the quickest way to the plains.
Today a pretty conical memorialshelter stands on the saddle,
dedicated to the 'Pioneer Women of Canterbury and their families'. Seats and
picnic tables are provided." Designed by Heathcote Helmore.

"....and gazed with awe but with courage upon the hills and plains of
Canterbury." Erected in 1993.

What vessel was he on??
Nelson Examiner and New Zealand Chronicle, 6 December 1851
A newly landed immigrant named David Bishop, in returning to the port from
Christchurch became so fatigued that he fell behind his companions, and was
never heard of for a month after, when his body was accidentally found. He was
not on the Cornwall.

Timaru Herald, 17 December 1898, Page 3
The Natives Association unveiled a monument and drinking fountain on the Port
Hills, in memory of Mrs Godley, wife of the founder of the settlement here.

Other
photos of the Bridal Path,
waymaking
The pictorial reliefs were done by Frederick G. Gurnesy (1868-1953)

They passed this way. John Brown married Mary Thompson in 1796 Bishopwearmouth, their son
is William Armstrong Brown b. 1803, baptised at the North Bridge Presbyterian
Church Sunderland. William married Isabella Stothard in 1825 in Monkwearmouth
and they had two sons - John Thompson Brown b 1830 and Matthew Stothard Brown b
1836.

Press, 9 March 1912, Page 3
The late Mr J. T. Brown, whose death was recorded early this week, was a very
old resident of Canterbury, and was in this province in the stirring pioneering
days. He arrived in New Zealand in the ship Indiana in 1858, bringing with him
his wife and two sons. One son was Mr John Brown, one of the principals of the
old firm of J. T. Brown and Sons, and the other was Mr W. Brown, who is a farmer
at the Cave, South Canterbury. The late Mr J. T. Brown, was associated with his
brother, Mr Matthew Brown, as builders at Port Levy, their principal work
consisting in the building of coastal schooners. Subsequently. Mr Brown settled
in Lyttelton for a few years, and then came to Christchurch, where be founded
the firm, of J. T. Brown and Sons, timber merchants, in 1863, the premises then
being in Tuam street. Three years ago Mr Brown removed to Palmerston North,
where he lived with his daughter. Mrs J. C. Lane, but during the past six months
he returned to Christchurch, and lived with his son, Mr John Brown. He was a man
of remarkable virility and strength, and he lived to the ripe old age of 82. His
wife predeceased him by sixteen years, but he leaves nine members of his family
five sons and four daughters. The late Mr Brown was for 44 years connected
with the Addington Methodist Church, and he maintained a keen interest in that
church until the time of his decease.

Press, 6 February 1905, Page 8
Mr Matthew Stothard BROWN. The many friends of Mr Matthew Brown, who for some
years has been foreman of the Harbour Boards dock and patent slip at Lyttelton,
will regret to hear of his sudden death, which took place on Saturday afternoon.
Mr Brown was in his usual state of health up till about half-past ten on
Saturday morning. While getting the slip ready for a steamer to go on, he
complained of a faintness. Dr. J. A. Newell was at once sent for, and at first
it was thought his patient was suffering from sunstroke. Mr Brown was at once
removed to his home, where he died at 1.10 p.m. the actual cause of death being
heart failure. The deceased gentleman, who was much respected throughout the
district, was born on September 23rd, 1835, at Sunderland, England. He arrived
in the colony by the ship Indiana towards the end of 1858. For many, years he
was settled at Port Levy, Banks' Peninsula, where, associated with his brother,
Mr John T. Brown he built several trading vessels, included, among which was the
ketch Emerald, so well known to old residents of the Port. Later on Mr Brown
became manager for Messrs Hawkins, and Martindale, and while acting in this
position he superintended the construction of, the Gladstone pier and the
western breakwater and the majority of the wharves in the Port. On the opening,
of the graving dock at Lyttelton Mr Brown was appointed dock foreman and has
held that position over, since. He had been an active member and, officer of the
Wesleyan Church from the time of his first settling in Lyttelton. Mr Brown
leaves a widow, five daughters, and three sons - Mr. William Brown, a partner of
the firm of Hollis and Brown, timber, merchants of Lyttelton; Mr M. S. Brown, of
Messrs Wynn-Williams and Browne and Mr. J. Brown, who, in the office of Mr T. W.
Stringer, of Christchurch. The funeral leaves Coleridge Terrace at 3.30 this
afternoon, for the Wesleyan cemetery.

Timaru Herald Tuesday 15 October 1889 pg2
Perils of the Sea
The barque Otago, formerly ship rigged, and as such a frequent visitor to
New Zealand, was towed into Lyttelton on Saturday night in a very bad plight.
She had left Sydney for London with a load of produce on August 13th, and all
went well till the 24th, when she was in 50 south and 160 west, running before a
W.S.W. gale, through a very high sea. Suddenly she broached to, half a dozen
sails were blown away, and sea after sea came on board, smashing things up in a
very vigorous fashion. The deck cabin was stove in and all the ship's papers,
officers' certificates, official log, manifest, charts, and navigating
instruments were swept away. The carpenter set to work to repair damage while
the seas were still coming aboard, and one wave dashed him against a fixture so
that he died a few hours later. An A.B. was missing soon after - washed
overboard unseen. Boats and bulwarks were smashed up and drifted away. The worst
mishap of all was the lost of the rudder, which curiously enough was not
discovered for to days during which men had taken their "trick at the wheel" and
obeyed orders as to steering to no effect whatever. The Otago with her crew of
eighteen and two passengers, out of the track of traders, rudder gone, deck in a
mess, carpenter killed, instruments washed away and chronometers choked, was in
a bad fix. The first thing to be done was to rig a jury rudder. To further
improve matters 1000 sacks of copra were thrown overboard. A rag chart was
found, the compass and with these and by means of dead reckoning a course was
shaped for New Zealand. Thirty-nine days after the accident land was sighted,
the Sisters, which lie west of the Chathams. This gave a new departure for Banks
Peninsula, with was sighted ten days later and the tug had them inside Port
Cooper by midnight. The vessel will have to go into dock for repairs.

Timaru Herald February 22nd February 1898
The oldest resident of Lyttelton, Mr John Grubb, shipwright, died on Saturday,
aged 81. He arrived in the colony at Wellington in '47, and was sent down to
Lyttelton to build a jetty and otherwise prepare for the arrival of the "first
four ships." He then built several coasting schooners, and later on the first
slip in Lyttelton.

28 April 1883 ILN pg124 Lyttelton - Graving
Dock

The Star 15 December 1900 page 6Glimpses of the Past by R.H.P., Ealing.
Nearly fifty years ago I walked from the vessel to the top of the Bridle Path
(on a hot day), to get a bird' view of our future home, and took a seat on that
large clump of rocks, about a quarter of a mile off to the left. I sat and
wondered. The dreary, miles of endless tussock, the distant hills, and the
little, winding stream, with its muddy mouth, not large enough to be useful -
out of that we had to make our homes and live......

Landing the passengers at Port Lyttelton by
William Fox and
Mary Townsend(Timeframes)

Arrival of the Pilgrims 1851, by Fox. Note Sumner Road winding
around the hill.

Otago Witness, Saturday, May 26, 1883, pg22
Lighting Lyttelton Harbor by Electricity. The Official Trail.
A visit was made to the engine house, in which the motive power, a 16hp
(nominal) engine, was in full running. An adjournment was made to the ship Oronsay, at the time lying in the graving dock. The scene on the
quarter-deck of the fine ship was one that will not soon be forgotten. It was
avertable 'bower of bliss," no pains having been spared to beautify the ship
with flags, evergreens and flowers. Awning hung from the break of the poop to
the mainmast, and over the bulwarks on either side, and suspended from amongst
the evergreens overhead were two large electric arc lamps of great brilliancy
and beauty. But there was a full moon...

'A History Of Port Lyttelton' by W.H. Scotter. Published
by The Lyttelton Harbour Board, 1968, 1st Ed, 356 pg, illustrated B/W
photos. Hard Cover with dj.
This book tells the full story of the development of a port in Lyttelton harbour
and of the shipping which entered its waters. It begins with an account of
traders and whalers lying at Purau and Little Port Cooper, and ends with a study
of vehicular and container vessels loading at berths.

'Lyttelton: Port and Town' byGeoffrey W.
Rice. Published November 2004. 285 x 210 mm, 164 pages with b&w photographs
andfour pages of colour photographs. Card covers. From the 'Pilgrim port' of the
1850s, with its single jetty to receive thousands of Canterbury Association
settlers. Lyttelton grew on wool and wheat exports to become a bustling seaport,
complete with graving dock and Timeball Station. The 1867 railway tunnel that
linked the port to Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains was the first in the
world cut through the rim of an extinct volcano. Lyttelton was the setting-off
port for British Antarctic exploration in the early 1900s, including Sir Robert
Falcon Scott's ill-fated 1910-12 expedition, and in the 1950s it served the same
purpose for icebreakers and supply ships for the US Deep-Freeze project at
McMurdo Sound. Troopships for the Boer War and both World Wars set off from
Lyttelton, and thousands of New Zealanders can still recall the overnight
inter-island ferry service between Lyttelton and Wellington. As patterns of
trade and goods-handling have changed, the port's appearance has altered
considerably in recent years, but the town remains a colourful medley of
seafarers, fishermen, railway workers and watersiders. Though many of its
residents now work in Christchurch, thanks to the 1962 road tunnel, Lyttelton
has attracted many newcomers, including such celebrities as Jim Hopkins and Joe
Bennett. Using many previously unpublished images from the collections of the
Canterbury and Lyttelton museums, this book weaves the diverse themes of port
and town into a narrative, noting key events and explaining patterns of change
across 150 years.

A permanent flag signalman was stationed at the Timeball from 1879-1880 onwards.
The flag signals were used to advise the town of ships sailing into the harbour,
to instruct ships where to berth and to direct the ship traffic. In 1891 a new
kauri flagpole replaced the original one, and it is the 1891 one which remains
in front of the Timeball today. The last flag signal to be recorded was received
from the Miro on 27 November 1941. After this date radio communication between
ships and the wharf became the norm. On 31 December 1934 the last signal was
dropped, and the service discontinued. Keeper Jack Burns remained as the flag
signalman until this position also ceased in 1941. The timeball mechanism is
fifteen metres high. The timeball consists of a hollow sphere made from a wooden
frame covered with thin sheets of painted zinc. It measures one and a half
metres in width and weighs over 100 kilograms. An Oregon pine mast is threaded
through a hole in the ball's centre. The ball is hoisted by handwheel to the top
of the mast and rests there on a catch. When the catch is pulled away the ball
is released and drops down the mast. At a predetermined time the timeball was
released. Ships in the harbour took their readings at the instant the timeball
left the top of the mast.

North Otago Times, 18 January 1881, Page 2
The Lyttelton Times is the largest daily paper in the colony. Its size tells so
heavily on it that it is always solemn, and its solemnity approaches the
funereal. What effect a joke in the Lyttelton Times would hive on its readers it
would be difficult to tell ; the history of the paper contains no record of
mirthfulness on its part, and an ebullition of fun might have disastrous
effects. It therefore adheres to the solemn, and in its yesterday's issue
modestly and mournfully speaks of itself as " the only paper of consequence not
at the beck and call of the Government " Farther on in the name article it
describes itself as " the only newspaper of consequence that dared to have
independent sources of information." Considering that there are at least other
two papers in the colony that support " out-and out " the policy of the
Opposition, it is surely unkind as well as injudicious in the Lyttelton Times to
proclaim their worthlessness, while crying up its own unparalleled virtue.