I met a one-percenter at a fuel stop today... Nicest guy you've ever met! He's a member of the "Renegados" and within 5 mins of meeting him he'd given me the low-down on the bike clubs in Mexico "all are friendly except maybe Santa Morte". Easy to identify them, the have a skull and skeleton on the colors.

Next thing, he gave me a list of name and phone numbers of maybe 20 guys in just about every state. "Just call if you have a problem, they will help you or find someone that can." A nice safety net for the solo moto traveller in Mexico eh?

I met a one-percenter at a fuel stop today... Nicest guy you've ever met! He's a member of the "Renegados" and within 5 mins of meeting him he'd given me the low-down on the bike clubs in Mexico "all are friendly except maybe Santa Morte". Easy to identify them, the have a skull and skeleton on the colors.

Next thing, he gave me a list of name and phone numbers of maybe 20 guys in just about every state. "Just call if you have a problem, they will help you or find someone that can." A nice safety net for the solo moto traveller in Mexico eh?

In Mexico now. The border crossing at Puerto Palomas was a cinch... half hour or less for both imigracion and Banjercito. There is plenty of parking right in front of the Banjercito trailer/office. No hassles from anyone. Super nice lady at the money exchange across the street. 12.9/pesos/dollar, no fee. As I was fumbling with my peel off permit sticker (my hands are totally f'd with arthritis) a nice elderly man showed me how easy it was to peel it and he asked for nothing for the favor, I tipped him nonetheless. There was no line going in at 12:00 but a pretty big line up of trucks and cars going out. The ride down to Nuevo Casas Grandes is mostly a good but rough asphalt road. The trucks haul ass! The wind and cold were a challenge and I was glad to hit NCG at around 3:30. Great staff here at the Hacienda hotel... learned that moto is slang for a joint... didn't know that... it was fun to yuck it up with the staff on a slow Saturday night. Also found out that the two 100 peso coins (1991) I had been hoarding for God knows how long are now worthless, gave them to the front desk clerk for his ninos. Love this place!

In Mexico now. The border crossing at Puerto Palomas was a cinch... half hour or less for both imigracion and Banjercito. There is plenty of parking right in front of the Banjercito trailer/office. No hassles from anyone. Super nice lady at the money exchange across the street. 12.9/pesos/dollar, no fee. As I was fumbling with my peel off permit sticker (my hands are totally f'd with arthritis) a nice elderly man showed me how easy it was to peel it and he asked for nothing for the favor, I tipped him nonetheless. There was no line going in at 12:00 but a pretty big line up of trucks and cars going out. The ride down to Nuevo Casas Grandes is mostly a good but rough asphalt road. The trucks haul ass! The wind and cold were a challenge and I was glad to hit NCG at around 3:30. Great staff here at the Hacienda hotel... learned that moto is slang for a joint... didn't know that... it was fun to yuck it up with the staff on a slow Saturday night. Also found out that the two 100 peso coins (1991) I had been hoarding for God knows how long are now worthless, gave them to the front desk clerk for his ninos. Love this place!

Found out yesterday how expensive the Cuota can be... took the libre road south of Mazatlan, but then after a while figured I needed to make some time. Got on the Cuota halfway to Tepic, Motos posted at 43 pesos but I was only charged 21. That was right according to the 50% reduction talked about a while ago. Next toll booth motos were posted at 90 pesos - no worries I thought, it will be 45. Nope, 90, and the woman either didn't understand my questions, or the correct rate really was 90. Sixty KM down the road there's another toll booth, this time with motos posted at 45 peso, and it was obvious the sign had just been updated. Seem to me that the 90 peso charged previously was a mistake and should have been 45, so showed the receipt to the guy that had just charged me 45, and he said the 90 was correct.

So if the 90 was correct, that means it cost me 156 pesos for 94km. I won't be doing that again any time soon!

No, Governors office is sort of on board but it is a federal matter. Kind of like Colorado and weed. Have heard nothing from state tourism or contacts in the Gov's office. Governor is PAN, new prez is PRI. Relationships must be established with all the complexity of not having a civil service system. Pretty much all new players at the fed level from what I hear.

Sonora only permits can be obtained at Naco and Agua Prieta, not just Empalme, regardless of what they tell you in Nogales. Good for up to 180 days, $50 and no deposit.

Friday at Allende checkpoint there was a 500yardas line mostly 18wheelers ., went around all the way to the front ., The federales were being interviewed by a news paper and they were posing for a picture it saved me like an hour No even one military checkpoint form Piedras to Monclova
Seems that the comandante supremo has order his bugler, retreat call
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I like Tampico, but I like Veracruz better. However, since distance to the border is important to you, Tampico would be a better fit. I wouldn't really consider summer temps moderate, though.

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Tend to agree totally, although it's sorta 6 of one and a half dozen of the other. I have never been to Veracruz although I did make it down to Santa Ana with Arte and Andres a few years ago. Once you cross the river at Tampico the vegetation changes dramatically to really dark greens and that part of the country is beautiful. If the OP gets to Tampico you might ride down to the Costa Esmerelda and Tuxpam and just check things out and decide. It's an extra day but looks awfully nice.

If I could find a place to park a decent travel trailer and truck I'd give spending some time down there some serious thought. A few years ago I ran into a Canadian who had cut a deal with a beachfront hotel for long-term lodging at something like $6/night on the understanding that he did his own laundry and didn't expect daily maid service. He told me that he hoped to convert a school bus to carry a motorcycle and to return the next year and to hook up at the same place. I would love to find out if he was successful.

Found out yesterday how expensive the Cuota can be... took the libre road south of Mazatlan, but then after a while figured I needed to make some time. Got on the Cuota halfway to Tepic, Motos posted at 43 pesos but I was only charged 21. That was right according to the 50% reduction talked about a while ago. Next toll booth motos were posted at 90 pesos - no worries I thought, it will be 45. Nope, 90, and the woman either didn't understand my questions, or the correct rate really was 90. Sixty KM down the road there's another toll booth, this time with motos posted at 45 peso, and it was obvious the sign had just been updated. Seem to me that the 90 peso charged previously was a mistake and should have been 45, so showed the receipt to the guy that had just charged me 45, and he said the 90 was correct.

So if the 90 was correct, that means it cost me 156 pesos for 94km. I won't be doing that again any time soon!

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Yep. The last time I rode that section of cuotas, (long before the reduction in tarifa), I finally jumped off at Rosamalia and headed south. I still remember three young boys running home barefooted along the libramiento carrying three pretty big iguanas. Dinner would be a good one that evening. Since then I've always opted for the libramientos over the cuotas when feasible. So much more to see, and so much less expensive.