It is a city that lives in the shadow of a volcano. A city of sharp contrasts. A city that is politically radical and socially conservative. A city that met me at the right time, when I was ripe to fall in love with a place. When I arrived that first time, more than a decade

This is a long time coming. I scribbled down thoughts and reflections while I was in transit, forced onto the plane by police who were ordered to kick me out of their country. That was 2006, nearly 11 years ago. And now, later this month, some of those notes will be published in my first