In general news: rise of the robots to threaten garment jobs in Southeast Asia; how mohair and angora became fashion’s most-unwanted fabrics; a new guidebook for Germans sick of disposable fashion; tracing flip-flops through the global economy; and the Alliance for Responsible Denim showcasing sustainability at the UN.

In the supply chain: workers at Gold Star Design in Bangladesh protested over sudden closure; hundreds of workers in another mass outbreak of fainting in a Cambodian factory; and Nepal signs a master plan prohibiting child labour.

In manufacturing: toxic tanneries are polluting a new site in Bangladesh; Pili is using microorganisms to produce environmentally-friendly dyes; and Norway’s oil fund has excluded a Chinese textile firm over human rights violations.

Quotes of the week:

“And let’s be honest, if we consider a wool suit, the total increase in terms of fabric would be of 20 euros – and I talk about a suit which retails at 2,000 euros. It’s nothing. The industry should be aware of this and stop complaining.” Luca Trabaldo Togna, president of luxury textile company Trabaldo Togna, on rising wool prices in Australia and New Zealand (10 Jul).

BRANDS & RETAILERS

Petition demands better childcare for children of Indian garment workers from major brands: A petition (in Germany) demanding C&A, Cecil, Primark, H&M and Zalando ensure all children of workers at their supplier factories in India to be properly cared for. It demands for children between ages of 6 months and 6 years to be allowed into the factory nursery, and not only the children of arbitrarily selected employees (petition still live on 13 Jul).

The Sustainability Strategy 2020 of the Otto Group: “Luna Journal spoke to Laura Jossberger, Head of Sustainable Supply Chain Management at the Otto Group, about how important sustainability is to the company and what goals the sustainability strategy encompasses” (12 Jul).

Solve creates three biodegradable pieces of clothing that transform into 30 different styles: “Solve includes three pieces of clothing that can transform into over 10 styles each, from jumpsuits and dresses, to trousers and jackets. hoping to discourage excessive consumption, the collection makes use of natural, renewable resources, product life-cycle traceability and powerful magnets to create a sustainable, innovative design of multi-functional and compostable clothing” (10 Jul).

Fix it, don’t ditch it: H&M teaches shoppers to take care of their clothes: “As part of H&M’s wider sustainability efforts, the retailer is trialling a new initiative in Germany that aims to educate consumers on how to take better care of their fashion purchases. Not only has the retailer launched a new range of branded laundry products, but visitors to H&M’s Hamburg store can also now get their clothes fixed by in-store seamstresses” (10 Jul).

Rise of robots fuels slavery threat for Asian factory workers: analysts: “[Thomson Reuters Foundation reports] the rise of robots in manufacturing in Southeast Asia is likely to fuel modern slavery as workers who end up unemployed due to automation face abuses competing for a shrinking pool of low-paid jobs in a “race to the bottom”, analysts said on Thursday [ 12 Jul]” (12 Jul). [Ed’s note: the report referenced is “Human Rights Outlook 2018” by Verisk Maplecroft. See report here.]

Why dirty is the newest sustainability buzzword: “Keen to shop responsibly? Take notes from Cora Hilts, the founder of Rêve En Vert, who is determined to add ‘dirty denim’ to the environmentally-and ethically-conscious shopper’s lexicon thanks to a collaboration with E.L.V. Denim” (11 Jul).

How your flip-flops reveal the dark side of globalisation: “As you pack for your holidays, don’t forget to pack your flip-flops – and treat them with respect, they may have travelled more than you and witnessed things you cannot see. Flip flops may look simple and cheap, but they are part of a bigger and more complicated story” (09 Jul).

The SIN List has been updated: The SIN [Substitute It Now] List is a database maintained by non-profit ChemSec of 919 hazardous chemicals likely to be banned or restricted in the future (09 Jul).

Alliance for Responsible Denim showcases sustainability at the UN: “Professor Lori DiVito of the Amsterdam School of International Business (AMSIB) and project manager Travis Rice go to the United Nations to showcase their sustainability project, the Alliance for Responsible Denim (ARD). The forum, titled “Transformation towards sustainable and resilient societies” is about sustainable development and will take place from 9 July to 18 July 2018 in New York” (06 Jul).

The natural connection to cotton-seed selection: “The apparel and textile industries are under a lot of pressure these days. Consumers are becoming more vocal about sustainability, where products are sourced and how they are made. Shoppers are more sensitive about the use of genetically modified organisms used in cotton production and often bristle at any mention of GMOs. … But a solution to some of these problems is being developed by Indigo Ag, a Boston-based company that has identified a natural, non-GMO approach to using microbes to ease the burden of problems associated with dependence on cotton-crop yields” (05 Jul).

Kandal union protest leaders freed on bail: “Four union leaders from the Cosmo Textile company in Kandal province have been freed on bail after nearly five months’ detention over allegations of violence and property damage during a protest” (11 Jul).

Minister urges early pay for workers: “The Labour Ministry yesterday released a statement suggesting all employers across the nation pay a cash advance to workers to ease their financial burden prior to election day” (10 Jul).

Cambodian NGO calls on the Ministry of Labour, VF Corporation, 5.11 Inc. and Skechers to inspect working conditions at Pontus Footwear Ltd: “CENTRAL calls on the Ministry of Labour and Vocational Training to send Labour Inspectors to inspect Pontus Footwear and the health, safety and working conditions of workers in the factory under Article 233 of the Labour Law. CENTRAL further calls on VF Corporation, 5.11 Inc., and Skechers USA Inc. – all companies to which Pontus Footwear supplies – to also send independent inspectors to the factory” (10 Jul). [Ed’s note: contrary to claims in the media – see story directly below – CENTRAL claims the fainting was triggered as a result of fumes and heat.]

Master plan against child labour passed: “As per the plan, use of children as domestic helpers, porters, farm workers, in collection and trafficking of narcotic drugs, in carpet weaving, embroidery and hosiery, in brick kilns, mining sector, entertainment business (including sexual abuse), and transport sector has been prohibited” (09 Jul).

MANUFACTURERS

Innovative dyeing using microorganisms – Pili: “At Pili we use microorganisms to fabricate colourful dyes at the most environmentally friendly labs ever. We literally biosynthesize dyes from sugar using fermentation processes without any nasty solvents or the need to heat at high temperatures. Once biosynthesized the pigments are filtered out leaving the microorganisms for further uses. We finally purify them so that they can be used in a wide range of industrial applications, especially in the textile industry” (12 Jul).

Toxic tanneries polluting new site: “Bangladesh tanneries prepping leather for shoes, belts, wallets and purses are dumping toxic chemicals into a river at a new industrial complex more than a year after the government shut them down for poisoning a different river and using child labor” (08 Jul).

Disclaimer: The Fashion Sustainability Week in Review (FSWIR) is a twice-weekly roundup of sustainability news items relevant to the fashion, apparel, textile and related industries. The views and opinions expressed in the FSWIR by individual authors and/or media outlets cited do not necessarily reflect the position of GoBlu International or any individual associated with the company.