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If your current setup is dead-heading the pump, then your workaround with the open hose bib can stay in place. A pressure tank could take its place, but they cost money. Have you changed the controller since the system was installed? Dead-heading is not what you plan for, unless you know it won't be a problem.

Do some resistance testing of your wiring. The Orbit Easy Dial series, and indeed any controller powered by a plug-in transformer, is putting out AC and not DC. https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/m…20(2)1final.pdf

Since you have DV100 valves, you can simply buy DV100F valves and swap the tops. By the way, you need to edit your photos down to a reasonable size and use an image host that allows remote viewing, so that they will show in a forum.

You could simply give them the results of your bucket test, and see if that's enough. Or, you could make up an imaginary supply of a 3/4-inch meter fed by 30 feet of 3/4-inch copper tubing. Whatever their process will make of a theoretical smaller supply should work for what you eventually have installed.

If you are feeding a sprinkler system directly from a curbside water meter, you do not really have a service line, so far as a sprinkler system is concerned. For the parts of the US where all water meters are in curbside pits, and a sprinkler system will be supplied from the house plumbing, then the water line from the house back to the meter near the street becomes the service line that needs to be described. For a house that is very far from the street, it may be fed from a service line that i...

Just leave Rainbird out of the loop for now. Do your bucket test. Expect at least 20-25 gpm useful flow. There will be more flow available, but your property (size in acres?) might not need maximum flow.

Just what is the distance the water main and the 1-inch meter? What is the pressure in the street? Is this a curbside meter or not? (these are facts you should share from the get-go, along with your location)

There are service lines and there are service lines. Since Rain Bird is in California, it might be natural for them to assume that the new water service is feeding a curbside meter pit. Other parts of the US might only have meters in basements, and that is where a service line question comes into play. Home is so far from the water main, so a service line of known length and size will figure into pressure loss calculations. And really, who cares. Get the meter installed and make your system conn...

Definitely a mess-up, if there was any way to isolate the winterizing air from the pump. Even then, there are precautions that were not taken in the described winterizing. Air pressure over 60 psi is not needed. A pressure of 95 psi can put heads at risk, not to mention a plastic-case pump.

Water Department poly pipe is a completely different animal. Thicker pipe walls than what goes into sprinkler systems, so heavy duty that typical stainless steel clamps you see in sprinkler system poly connections are too feeble to secure the water department poly pipe connections, which will be made by compression fittings. Don't forget that any plumbing leaks upstream of a water meter would be wasting water no one has yet purchased, so trust the water departments to get it right, if only for t...

Thanks for the controller info. The earliest of these things were purely mechanical, and built around a pressure reducing valve. The water supply would still have a pressure tank and a pressure switch, but the tank was just a mini, to pair with a pressure switch. The specialty valve would hold output operating pressure to a set point, and once the sprinkler system stops operation, the internal bypass allowed a small flow to operate the pressure switch. The higher pressure resulting from a low fl...

Well controllers aren't supposed to stress the sprinkler system. They will subject the pump and its drop pipe to higher pressures, but that's the price you pay for that 'controlled' output, and possible savings by not needing a larger pressure tank.

Quoted from "top_gun_de" ........ and the controller can handle anything from 2GPM up.... You did not mention a pump controller. They still aren't standard equipment on every well. Systems in the past had to exactly match the output of well and pump, without any controller or other aids, so that the pump would not cycle on and off. That's where the original PGP series worked better than anything else, because of the range of nozzle sizes.

the key word here is "well" - this means two things first, the water may have particles of sand and will need filtering - a Vu-Flow is a filtering standard (size shown fits your stated well performance) second, the well output needs to be completely employed by the sprinkler zone - this is where the PGP is the superior choice, because of the interchangeable nozzles as an aside, do not overlook the plain old original PGP rotor - it has the widest range of nozzles, more than the Ultra series, and ...

Orbit has misinformed you. An antisyphon valve upstream of zone valves prevents nothing. Nothing is what it's been doing for decades. This is because an antisyphon valve is non-functional, protection-wise, if there are any other valves downstream of it. Replace it with a Pressure Vacuum Breaker, and you will have genuine backflow protection. Of course, the PVB, just like any vacuum breaker, must be higher in elevation than any sprinkler pipe or head downstream of it. When the top of the PVB is a...

Filters are cheap enough, but the next one you buy could also blow apart. Expensive filters will be stronger, but you could blow up half a dozen cheap ones and not get near the cost of an unbreakable one made of brass. One tip to help save the next cheap filter, is to employ the flow control on the zone valve to slow the outrush of water into the filter. Also, make sure the filter is cleaned regularly. A clogged filter points all the water force at its cleanout. "pop"