Those of you who have been quilting along with me, I hope you're have fun! If you're just joining in - Welcome! Feel free to grab the button above to place on your blog, and tell others that there's still time left to quilt along! Here's the schedule, with the links to previous blocks in pink.

As for fabric choices, check out these posts, here, and here.And QAL wouldn't be complete without prizes? Each week there's a new set of goodies to be given away, which leads me to announce last week's winner, courtesy of Mr. Random Number Generator.

This prize consists of the book, Quilts with Unique Borders, and two patterns, Mango Parfait, and Home Again. And what do you need to do to be eligible for these great prizes? Just follow one of these easy steps:

1) write up a blog post with pictures of your blocks and link the post (not your main page) to the linky party at the bottom of this post, or

2) join the Spangled Stars Flickr group here, and post your photo. Click on your photo to get the URL at the top, and link that to the linky party, or

3) post a block photo on Instagram using the hashtag #spangledstarsqal, then link up the URL to the linky party.Pretty easy! The link stays open for a week, and I'll announce the winner at the next QAL installment. You're welcome to join in anytime, but if a linky party has passed, the chance to win those prizes is also past. Just be sure to post blocks to the next one. Good luck!

Now on to the QAL!The next two weeks feature the last block, the Star Block.

I'm breaking it into two sections, mainly because a) the instructions for each part are intensive, and b) there's a lot of parts to assemble just to make one block, and precision is going to count here. The other blocks have been pretty easy, but this one needs more attention. So spreading it out causes less confusion.

I'm starting with the units in the corners,

which EQ calls 'checkerboard'. Not quite what I'd call it, and if you know a different name, let me know. For now, I'm calling it Unit A!

Below is the chart for cutting WOF strips for each size, and each color, following the coloring in the diagram above. If your coloring is different, be sure to note that for yourself.

# Star Blocks

# Unit A

Red square

(40” WOF)

White bkgrnd,

(40” WOF)

Light Blue HST,

(40” WOF)

Wall

5

20

2” x 1 WOF

3” x 1 WOF

3 7/8” x 1 WOF

Throw

7

28

2” x 2 WOF

3” x 2 WOF

3 7/8” x 2 WOF

Twin

15

60

2” x 3 WOF

3” x 3 WOF

3 7/8” x 3 WOF

Double

18

72

2” x 4 WOF

3” x 4 WOF

3 7/8” x 4 WOF

Queen

18

72

2” x 4 WOF

3” x 4 WOF

3 7/8” x 4 WOF

King

24

96

2” x 5 WOF

3” x 5 WOF

3 7/8” x 4 WOF

I'm making a twin size, which has 15 Star Blocks,

and each Star Block has 4 Unit A's, which means I'm making 60 Unit A's ( 15 x 4=60). If you're making a different size, I've already figured out how many Unit A's you need, just refer to the chart above.

Unit A is made up using strip piecing. Yes, that's right, strip piecing. There is no cutting and piecing of little squares and triangles. And no waste - that's the best part, because I don't need more little waste pieces to figure out what to do with!

So, let's get started! Cut the number of 2" red strips (for the squares) and 3" white strips (for the background) needed for each size. Sew one red strip to one background strip, and press to the red (dark).

Just as in the making of the other blocks, the strip sets get stacked for subcutting, right sides together, with the red strips on opposite sides.

They must be positioned this way for sewing in the next step, so be sure the red strips oppose each other.

Subcut the strip sets at 2", keeping the pairs together.

Each pair will make two Unit A's. Use the chart below to find how many subcut pairs to cut.

# of subcut pairs

Wall

10

Throw

14

Twin

30

Double

36

Queen

36

King

48

Head to the sewing machine and chain stitch all the pairs together along the long edge.

Clip them apart, but before pressing, place each long seam against a ruler, aligning the background edge with the 1 1/2" mark.

Make a small clip to the seam line at the 3/4" mark. Do this on all units. This step makes final assembly so much easier!

Now press each side of the long seam away from the red (dark). The clip in the middle allows for that easily.

Now for the tricky part, the step that needs close attention.

Using a 6" square ruler, line the rulers' center diagonal line along the right side of the unit, with the cutting edge going through the center clip (arrows in the center of the picture).

The ruler needs to align along the blocks' outer edge, near the corners, the same amount on each side, somewhere between 3/8" and 1/2", depending on how the center seam was sewn and pressed. Here are closeups of each corner.

If these measurements aren't equal, the angle of the cut is off, making for a smaller seam allowance. So pay attention to this step - it's not hard, just time consuming. And yes, I measured each one, all 60 corners.

Once the measurements are equal, cut along the diagonal, to yield to HST pieces. The picture below shows the front and back of the units.

But wait! One corner is missing on each unit! Don't worry - it works just fine without it!

Once those are all ready, cut the 3 7/8" light blue strip, subcutting it to make 3 7/8" squares.

Lay one light blue 3 7/8" square right side up, and place a red square unit from before right side down, matching two edges.

Lay another red square unit on the other corner, right side down, matching up edges. The corners are hard to see, so go by the edges. Pin both pieces in place, preferably with flat head pins. The diagonal edges will overlap slightly.

Using the 6" square ruler again, align the rulers' center diagonal line with the left edge of the block.

The corners are hard to see for alignment, but do the best as possible. Draw a pencil line along the diagonal, being careful of fabric shifting.

Sew a scant 1/4" from the pencil line on each side, aligning the start with the cut off corner (see the bit of blue peeking through?)

and stitching just at the edge of the cross seams for the red square. Notice in the next picture how the needle is headed straight to that seam intersection?

This is why the fabric was clipped and pressed away from the red square - to improve visibility so the red square point doesn't get cut off or that seam doesn't land close enough. Oh, so smart!

Sew down one side of the center line, turn the block around, and sew the other side. Then chain stitch to the next block. I don't recommend chain stitching down one side on every block, then going back and doing the other side, as this unit needs to stay positioned correctly.

Using the 6" square ruler, cut on the center pencil line.

Tiny bits from each side are the only waste. Press the seam towards the light blue. Trim off the little dog ears, and do a measurement check - 3 1/2" square. If there is any trimming to do, do it on the blue piece, not the red/white, as that shouldn't be any smaller. And notice that the missing corner was no big deal - just fewer dog ears to trim! Aren't they pretty both front and back?

Friday, May 22, 2015

Yesterday, I was working on the applique name blocks for the t-shirt quilts,

and came up with a great way to keep the writing at the same slant and spacing as I had printed it. To make these letters, I used Inkscape, a free drawing program, and chose the Forte font. Printing it the correct way gives a reference piece

then printing a mirrored version,

makes the template for use in tracing on the fusible.

Keeping the letters together as one fusible piece, the name is fused to the backside of the fabric,

and roughly cut out as one piece.

Starting at the middle of all the letters, they are cut out, leaving top and bottom scrap outline pieces, and the paper is removed from the letters, using a pin to score it.

After marking placement on the background fabric, the scrap outline pieces are laid down to help place the letters.

One by one, the letters are put into their respective places,

and the scrap outlines are carefully removed. The letters are fused, and look just like they were written in the Forte font!

If I hadn't have figured this out, I would have placed that 'B' straight up and down, changing the look of the font. Sometimes it's just those little things that make life so much easier!And, here's a t-shirt quilt update: only one remains on the living room floor

a big change from this

to this.

Another unfinished one still resides on my bedroom floor.As for the three finished ones, they hang on my longarm frame.

Once I'm done putting the five tops together, they'll all get borders based on how much fabric I have left.Now I'm off to work on #4!

After today, the majority of the blocks are done, as there is just one block left, with it's construction spread over two weeks. Hang in there - it's almost a top! For those just joining, click on the pink links above for all the information on sizes, fabric requirements, and block instructions. Other color options can be found hereand here.

Mr. Random Number Generator is picking the winner again this week:

Congratulations to Myra! Email me your mailing information so that I can send out your prize!

This week, the prize is generously donated by Keepsake Quilting. Be sure to show them some love by visiting!

Consisting of an embroidery pattern from Crab-apple Hill, a pillow pattern from It's Sew Emma, and a wonderful book from Bonnie Hunter, More Adventures with Leaders and Enders, there's plenty to keep us quilting!

And what doyouneed to do to win? Just make up the required number of Stripe and Cross Blocks for the size quilt you've chosen, and link up using the linky tool at the bottom of this post (blue box that says 'Add Your Link').

You can link a blog post (please link back to the Spangled Stars QAL somewhere on your page), the URL of your photo after adding it to the Spangled Stars Flickr group, or the URL of your photo after posting it to Instagram, using the hashtag #spangledstarsqal. Pretty easy! The link stays open for a week, and I'll announce the winner with the next block instructions. Anyone can join the QAL at any time, but if a linky party has passed, the chance to win is over for that week.Now on to the Stripe and Cross Block!

The number of blocks to make is much less than last week, and it is composed of 3 units (A,B,C). The following chart displays how many blocks for each size, and how many of each unit to make for those blocks.

# of Stripe and
Cross

blocks

# of A units needed

# of B units needed

# of C units needed

Wall Hanging

4

4

8

8

Throw

8

8

16

16

Twin

15

15

30

30

Double/Full

18

18

36

36

Queen

18

18

36

36

King

25

25

50

50

See? A lot less! Let's start working on Unit A,

then at the end, we'll sew all the units together to make the block. The following chart for Unit A gives the number of 40" width of fabric strips to cut for each size quilt. I'm making a twin, so I'll cut (3) 2" background strips, and (5) 2 1/4" red strips, to then make a total of 15 Unit A's.

WOF=40”

A unit

White

background

A unit

Red

for stripes

Wall Hanging

(1) 2”x WOF

(2) 2 1/4” x WOF

Throw

(2) 2”x WOF

(3) 2 1/4” x WOF

Twin

(3) 2”x WOF

(5) 2 1/4” x WOF

Double/Full

(3) 2”x WOF

(5) 2 1/4” x WOF

Queen

(3) 2”x WOF

(5) 2 1/4” x WOF

King

(4) 2”x WOF

(7) 2 1/4” x WOF

In the picture below, I've got cut strips on the left; a red and white strip sewn, with seams pressed to the red, in the center; and a full strip set of red/white/red, on the right.

For efficiency, the strip sets are stacked,

and subcut to 5 1/2",

making (15) Unit A's at 5 1/2" x 5 1/2".

On to Unit B.

From the top chart, I need 30 Unit B pieces, because they are going on two sides of Unit A. For the twin size, the next chart says to cut (4) 2 1/4" background strips, and (2) 2" BLUE strips. Notice the color change!

WOF=40”

B unit

White

background

B unit

Blue

for bars

Wall Hanging

(1) 2 1/4” x WOF

(1) 2” x WOF

Throw

(2) 2 1/4” x WOF

(1) 2” x WOF

Twin

(4) 2 1/4” x WOF

(2) 2” x WOF

Double/Full

(5) 2 1/4” x WOF

(3) 2” x WOF

Queen

(5) 2 1/4” x WOF

(3) 2” x WOF

King

(7) 2 1/4” x WOF

(4) 2” x WOF

The assembly of this strip set is the same as Unit A, except the background pieces are on the outside. In the picture below, I've got strips, on the left; a white and blue strip sewn, with the seam pressed to the blue, in the center; and a complete white/blue/white strip set, on the right.

Stacking those strips sets again,

they are subcut to 2 1/2"

yielding (30) 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" Unit B pieces.

Unit C is last, and again, from the topmost chart, my twin size needs (30) Unit C pieces, for the remaining two sides around Unit A.

Make sure all Unit A's are oriented with stripes heading up and down (vertical).

Chain stitch all of one side of the Unit A's, then chain stitch the other side. I have my Unit B's on the bottom because I have red thread in the needle, and want that on the red fabric. But you can stitch your Unit B's on top!

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About Me

Hi! I'm Susan, a quilter who loves to create and inspire! Contact me at quiltfabrication@gmail.com