First things first. Noid leaks are almost never the noid. A bad bolt sail oring is the usual problem. Air slips past and blows out the vent holes on the noid.

Secondary issues are the outer can orings(middle) or large top hat oring. If those are bad you can also get a direct leak out the noid.

Third, if your noid is loose, or not screwed down with even pressure you can get leaks out the gasket.

Fourth, if your LPR is set too low..........there won`t be enough air to fire the gun or swell orings up until they seal. If your HPR is too low.....more of the same.

Don`t take the noid apart! SMC noids don`t like that and you may ruin the noid for no reason.

First, make sure your board has a good battery in it. Make sure it`s got all stock settings.

Next set your regulators to stock settings.

Next change the orings I mentioned one at a time until you find one that`s the problem.

If you don`t find it then unplug your board and eyes, take the grip off, and check your noid to make sure it`s level and snug. If you still have a leak leave the grip frame off, air up the gun in pieces and get a spray bottle of water to find the exact spot of the leak.

If you hear a click, you are creating a magnetic field and moving the armature. The pneumatic components won't cycle normally without an air supply, so you won't be able to visually inspect their function off the marker other than checking for obvious seal damage.

But like MstrKey said, leaks from the solenoid area are rarely caused by the solenoid itself, and it should only be disassembled for inspection after all other causes have been ruled out.

I tend to jump the gun. The marker when aired up with power does cycle still leaks though, but that I would expect as I have not changed an oring yet!

A little back story..... Bought marker AS IS supposedly only an eye pipe missing and a battery prong broken. What I found out is the yes the eye pipe was missing and the battery prong was broken PLUS
1)Broken eye wire
2)ASA leaking from vent hole
3)Gun leaking between grip frame and body
4)Gun not firing
Etc etc etc.

I should have ordered the oring set the same time I did the marker, but thought a wait and see approach would be better. Haha jokes on me!

I tend to jump the gun. The marker when aired up with power does cycle still leaks though, but that I would expect as I have not changed an oring yet!

A little back story..... Bought marker AS IS supposedly only an eye pipe missing and a battery prong broken. What I found out is the yes the eye pipe was missing and the battery prong was broken PLUS
1)Broken eye wire
2)ASA leaking from vent hole
3)Gun leaking between grip frame and body
4)Gun not firing
Etc etc etc.

I should have ordered the oring set the same time I did the marker, but thought a wait and see approach would be better. Haha jokes on me!

No worries. You can get it working. Paintball guns aren't too tough to figure out. The wiring problems are probably the toughest ones.

Just a guess but if you or the previous owner serviced you lpr when you got the gun and removed the center screw (it is a set screw), you broke the locktite seal and this will cause a very slight leak from the frame which can appear to be the noid. All you need to do it put some BLUE locktite on the center screw and set it flush with the bottom of the body.

If it is a larger leak I am going to guess it is a bad o-ring.

If that doesn't work, as stated when you get your o-ring kit service the lpr and see if that helps.

Thanks. I applied today so it can dry tomorrow. Test fire Saturday. Again thank you for everyone's help. I did get a few shots off in the back yard. People said these were smooth but holy cow! I have shot a Geo 2 well broken in and it could not touch the DM11.

I would say so, I would assume your bolt is broke in so you might even get some more. If you want to get more look into getting your bolt polished by pooty that will allow you to lower your lpr some giving you an even smoother shot as well (won't make a huge difference on efficiency though).

Also if you want to make you dm11 super efficient look in to getting an EigenRing.

Thanks I will. I haven't hit the field yet with the DM so efficiency may not be a huge deal, but my primary field is a bit rustic and often the 4500 header is only pumped up to 3500. Love the owners, cheap as heck, and the people there are great so field shopping wouldn't be an option!

A lot of fields run lower air pressure like that. It's just a lot cheaper and extends the life of your compressor. They're very expensive to buy and a pain in the (_)_) to maintain lol.

Yes 6-7 pods is going to be your limit. More with the eigenring if you can get it to work in your gun. You may squeeze out another pod in the summer when you can really lower your dwell but this time of year it won't happen. Low air fills are the reason I gave up on Dms even though I love them. 3000psi is the max around here.

I dont want to start anything here but almost anytime I have an issue with the noid and its anything minor if you send it to dye their solution is just replace the noid...kinda fishy. Don't want to get off in it but I have noticed if the noid is in question just go ahead and assume its giong to cost you an $80 noid from them