Two recipes to inspire new Passover traditions

Photograph by: Handouts
, Kyle Books

MONTREAL - Passover, which commemorates the exodus of the Jews from Egypt and their liberation from oppression, is the most widely observed of Jewish holidays and the Seder meal the most practised of Jewish rituals, as Gil Marks observes in his Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (John Wiley & Sons, 2010). Families gather, as they have for centuries, to tell the Passover story, aided by symbols and ceremonies recorded in the Hagaddah.

Those who observe the eight-day festival, which this year begins Friday at sundown, also abstain from most grain or grain products. According to Biblical law, there are five grains that can ferment when they come into contact with water and become leavened or, in Hebrew, hametz: wheat, barley, spelt, oats and rye.

That means no bread during Passover, and no pasta, no oatmeal and no beer. The exception is matzo, unleavened bread made from flour and water – quickly and under rigorous conditions to ensure it does not become leavened before it is baked.

Following are two recipes from Kosher Revolution (Kyle Books, 2011) that are suitable for Passover.

Cinnamon Chicken Tagine with Prunes and Apricots

Serves 10 to 12

This dish honours the traditional Jewish Moroccan tagine, write co-authors Geila Hocherman and Arthur Boehm. Tagines are featured in broader Moroccan cuisine as well – Jews lived in Morocco for centuries and, at its peak in the 1940s, the country’s Jewish population exceeded 250,000 – but this version is made without the need of the special vessel in which they are usually made: the tagine, with its characteristic conical lid. Rather, it can be made in a large, high-sided skillet or a roasting pan set over two burners. This dish makes a large quantity, but the recipe can easily be halved for a smaller crowd. Or freeze half for later.

Heat a large skillet, paella pan or large roasting pan set over two burners, over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and roast, stirring, until lightly coloured, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside. Sprinkle the chicken with the salt and pepper and heat half the oil in the pan over medium heat. Working in batches, add the chicken and sauté until browned, turning once, about 12 minutes per batch. Transfer to a platter and set aside. If the oil or browned bits in the pan have burned, wipe out the pan. Add the remaining, add the onions and sauté until onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Return the chicken to the pan. Add the saffron to the stock and pour over the chicken. Add the cinnamon, bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Transfer the white meat to a platter. Add the prunes and apricots to the pan and simmer until the rest of the chicken is done, about 15 minutes or so. Transfer the chicken to the platter and discard cinnamon sticks. Add the honey to the pan and cook over medium-high until the liquid is syrupy and coats a spoon, 15 to 20 minutes. Return the chicken to the pan, baste with the sauce, cover and warm. Transfer all to a warmed platter, sprinkle with the almonds, and serve.

Blueberry Lemon-curd Sponge Cake

Serves about 12

Sponge cake, according to Marks, is the most widespread Passover and Seder dessert.

Geila Hocherman calls this a “perfected Passover dessert.” Like many kosher cooks, she writes, “I’ve made my share of sponge cakes, so-so, good and better.” For this version, she added lemon zest one year, lemon curd the following – and a blueberry garnish the year after that. It works well for tea, a summer lunch or a picnic. If the cake is not being served at the end of a meal at which meat was served, butter can be used in place of margarine.

9 large eggs, separated

11/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 cup matzo cake meal

1/2 cup potato starch

Pinch kosher salt

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Lemon curd

1/2 cup sugar

Grated zest of 3 lemons

6 egg yolks

1/2 cup lemon juice

2 teaspoons potato starch

8 tablespoons margarine, cut into 1/2-inch dice

To finish:

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup blueberries

Icing sugar, for dusting

Grease a 10-inch tube pan with a removable bottom. In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or using a hand-held mixer, combine the yolks and sugar and beat at high speed until smooth and fluffy. Add the lemon juice and combine. Add the cake meal, potato starch, salt and lemon zest and blend. Remove bowl from mixer, if using stand mixer, and fold in the whites, 1/3 at a time. Pour batter into the prepared tube pan and bake in a preheated 350 degree F oven until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean, about 60 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes, run a knife around the cake and remove on the pan base. Finish cooling.

Meanwhile, make the lemon curd. In a food processor – a mini-processor if you have one – place the sugar and lemon zest and pulse until combined. Fill a small pot 2/3 full of water and bring to a simmer over medium heat. In a non-reactive bowl, combine the yolks, sugar and zest mixture, lemon juice and potato starch, place over the water so that the bowl is not touching the water and whisk until it thickens to the consistency of a loose pudding. This usually takes 4 or 5 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and add the margarine or butter, stirring to blend. Strain the mixture into a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap so the wrap is touching the surface of the curd and refrigerate for at least two hours, or overnight.

To make the syrup: in a small pot, combine 3/4 cup sugar and 3/4 cup water and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely – about 3 minutes. Chill.

Remove the cake from the pan bottom and halve horizontally. With a pastry brush, brush away any crumbs. Brush the cut side of the bottom layer and the top of the upper layer with the syrup and set aside for 20 minutes so that the syrup seals the cake.

Place bottom layer on a serving plate or platter and spread evenly with curd, about 1/4-inch thick. Top with the upper cake layer and ice the top of the cake with the remaining curd. Place some of the blueberries in the centre of the cake and arrange the rest on the serving plate around the base. Dust with icing sugar and serve.

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