7 Style Tribes That Adopted the Penny Loafer

How a provincial slip-on became a mainstay for everyone from punks to bankers.

Oct 5, 2016

Illustrations by Christopher Wright

Few pieces carry the true distinction of an icon. These timeless items must contain an elusive blend of heritage, quality, design, cultural relevance, and an origin story worthy of a comic book superhero. Enter the Weejun loafer from American shoemaker G.H. Bass & Co.. From its unlikely start in the remote, salmon-laden fjords of Norway to its continued relevance in fashion circles around the world, the shoe's place in the annals of menswear is well solidified. Here's a look at seven style tribes that have embraced the Weejun over the years.

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1English Sporting Gentlemen, also known as "The Lords of Salmon"

The Weejun traces its roots back to the traditional slip-on leather shoes from Aurland, an area west of Norway's second-largest city, Bergen. (The style's name is an abbreviated take on "Norwegian.") Comfortable and capable of navigating the rocky regional shorelines, the loafer was a local everyman's staple. In the early 1930s, English gentlemen began venturing to the fjords around Aurland in search of the legendary salmon. The fishermen took a such liking to the purpose-built footwear that they began wearing the Aurland shoe with their tailored tweed three-piece suits, extending the design's versatility well beyond its sporting origins.

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2The Jetsetters of Palm Beach and Esquire's In-the-Know Editors

As the shoes made their way home to London—and eventually the posh resorts of Europe and America—they took on a new identity and became the go-to for a new group of stylish men: the jet-set leisure class. During the winter of 1935-1936 in Palm Beach, Florida, the shoes were paired with the dramatically cut, light-colored suits of the era and rarely seen without a Panama hat or fedora capping off the look. These high-profile resorts often set the style agenda for men around the world, and Esquire's editors were students of the scene. Looking to bring the shoe to a wider market in America, the editors partnered with retailer Rogers Peet and G.H. Bass & Co. After a few meetings, the Weejun was born in 1936.

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3Ivy League Alpha Males

As a shoe that was rich in style and quality, but didn't break the bank, the Weejun was a near-instant hit on Ivy League campuses. In the halls of the elite colleges, students were beginning to adopt a more casual style of dress. With its slip-on design, the shoe looked unfussy, yet it brought a certain air of exclusivity thanks to its worldly roots and popularity among European gentry. Since it could be paired with everything from khaki shorts and a varsity sweater to chinos and a navy blazer, the shoe was popular year-round—especially in the winter as a comfortable après-ski option for weekends in the mountains. It's here that the no-socks look also emerged, though legend has it this was born out of running late to class rather than any sartorial strategy.

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4England's Mid-Century Mods

Weejuns reached peak popularity in the early days of the first mod wave, when jazz and soul dominated the airwaves and close-cut suits, polos, and parkas were the dominant sartorial trend. Throughout the 1950s and '60s, the slip-on gained favor among actors, artists, and particularly jazz musicians, especially Miles Davis, who was known to don a black pair with a crisp suit. Across the pond, the jazz-worshipping mods were filtering black American style through an English lens—with it came a love for the loafer.

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5Wall Street's Power Brokers

Throughout the 1980s, the financial services industry was known for two things: excess and loafers. In the bull market the ties were wide, the bonuses were astronomical, and the shoes were slip-on. Loafers served as something of a carryover from the Ivy League days of many bankers and offered an easy-wearing, all-day shoe that projected class and confidence while challenging convention. Pairing Weejuns with a pinstripe suit, statement tie, and French cuff shirt was not for the faint of heart, but neither was Wall Street in the days of Jordan Belfort.

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6Punks in Penny Loafers

In the punk world, making a statement isn't necessarily what you wear—it's how you wear it. Loafers migrated into the movement in England in the 1970s and '80s via the mods. However, rather than wearing slip-ons with a suit, the punks opted for ripped jeans, customized leather jackets, and plenty of attitude. The more knackered the shoes, the better for the punks who wore grime as a badge of honor.

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7Modern Menswear Aficionados

Today's best-dressed men effortlessly blend elements of contemporary streetwear with classic pieces. The loafer remains in heavy rotation on the feet of industry insiders and generally stylish guys alike thanks to its timeless appeal and versatility with contemporary looks. Whether worn with slim black denim and a bomber jacket or dressed up with a cropped suit, it's an effortless addition to any look.

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