Restoring Alumacraft Deep C

June 3rd, 2009, 01:52 PM

I got myself into a bit of a situation; I did not grow up around boats, even though I live in central MN, but my gal pal and her kid love fishing. I have never seen a 5 year old so into it. Then last year they brought home this boat right out of a horse pasture. It is not in perfect shape, but it isn't bad for $200 including trailer and 35 horse motor that is back from the dead. We replaced the missing rivets so now it floats as well. I noticed some postings for making a new windshield for it, so I might try that soon. But one of our biggest problems is trying to find something about the canopy that used to be on the boat. We can't even find good pictures of one, if someone could help us out, we would be very grateful.

OK, I know it has been a while, but I am finally going to actually work on this boat, I have most things removed from it so I can run some new wires so the lights and horn will work, also going to repaint the red and white on it. More importantly going to replace the rotting wood from the transom. I have some oak for the inside for rigidity. Then I will get some plywood for the spacer on the outside. Might also add some plywood to the floor so we don't trip over them ridges on the bottom. Is it worth replacing the old steering cables with an updated steering system? I am excited to get this old thing looking good and back on the water where it belongs. I got a good price on an old lund that we have been using in the meantime.

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Hi making. I would not recommend using the oak lumber you have in mind for the transom. A couple pieces of (1/2" -3/4") plywood laminated together is actually stronger than a single piece of oak. You can use the same plywood to build a deck (boats don't have "floors" ) as well. Be sure to put some closed cell foam beneath the decking as well. The pink/blue construction insulation panels work great and are available in a variety of thicknesses from any lowes/HD. There are really only a few rules when it comes to aluminum boats; 1.) NEVER use PRESSURE TREATED wood as it will lead to electrolytic pitting in the hull. 2.) Instead, use non-PT exterior grade plywood (1/2"-3/4") and seal it using either 2-part epoxy, fiberglass mat & resin, or several coats of Spar Urethane. The epoxy and /or f'glass methods work great, but are a little messy and you usually have to order the supplies, which can also be a bit pricey. However, Spar Urethane is readily available at any lowes/HD and works very well. 3.) Mount all wood using STAINLESS STEEL hardware dipped in 3M 5200 marine caulk (also available at Lowes/HD) and/or aluminum pop rivets. 4.) As far as painting goes, simply sand any old paint with 220 grit paper wipe down with acetone, apply a light dusting of Zinc Chromate Self-etching primer (lowes/HD), let dry, apply top coat of your choice. Here's a link to all of the steering supplies you may need too. Holler if you get stuck.

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Do it right and keep it original. White oak for the inner transom board with cork sheet backing. Marine ply (7 ply) for the outside transom. See thread above on FD48... for correct way to remove inner board. It's easy to do if you do it the right way the first time. Keep the cable steering especially if you use the older motor. Can't get adequate steering from modern steering systems. Irreversable modifications of older boats decrease their resale value. The original white oak inner transom board is plenty strong on that boat and rated for 60hp. Replacing it with plywood may work OK for a while but it won't look correct and it will rot much faster than solid white oak.

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thanks for the thoughts and suggestions. I am however even more unsure now over using the white oak or laminating two pieces of 3/4" plywood for the transom. I am aware of the problems withe treated on aluminum, along with stainless fasteners, but thanks for the rel-iteration. As for sealing the wood I think I am going to go with the spar urethane, simply because of its availability. The steering I am leaving as is, just a couple of pulleys to change out there. The deck I am going to add is just going to be floating, not permanently attached, so I am not sure that adding foam would do much good there. Since the bench seats are not real comfortable, and the clamps they sell for attaching seats do not work well, I am going to go with someone else's idea of strapping some plywood to the benches so I can screw some swivels to it.

What color stain is appropriate?

How do I find out color codes for this boat? Anyone know what they are?

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makingthemhappy, Nice boat. I was wondering if you would take some measurements of your frame for the convertible top for me? I just purchased a '56 Deep C and mine has the mounting pivots and the snaps so at one time it had a top. I have no frame and will need to have one built. Any info would be appreciated.

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No need to take measurements! When I picked up the windshield there was the convertable top frame! Can you tell me what goes between the windshield and the hood of the boat? Wondering if it was a rubber seal or another piece of aluminum frame?

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Lloyd, I just picked up a 1956 Deep C that I'm starting on. Can you describe the cork sheet backing you are speaking of? Also what belongs between the windshield and the deck? Is it a weather strip? I am looking for the bow eye. Mine is broken in half. What is your opinion of attaching single or dual trumpet horn or remote chrome spot light on the bow? Thanks in advance and nice boat by the way.

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There is a thin sheet of cork between the wood on the transom and the aluminum. As for the horns neither are a standard part when the deep C was sold as far as I am understanding, so it is just what ever you like to look at better. congrats on finding a windshield and a frame for the top. There is a rubber seal between the windshield and the "hood" as you called it. http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic...u-channel.html look on here and you can see a clear picture of the of a windshield with a seal if you scroll down a bit.

Another note, I finally sanded down the paint and pounded out some dents, hopefully either today or tomorrow I can get it to the paint shop. Good luck

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Makingthemhappy, I wonder if you can tell if the gauge pod on your dash is original Alumacraft and if you could take a picture of it and post it on here? My dash is plain except for a couple of holes, one switch and the steering.

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My dash and everywhere on the boat seems to have extra holes, not sure who put them in. As far as I can tell the key and choke on the dash were installed with the motor, not sure if the dealer installed it or alumacraft. The boat has a super sea horse and the "gauge pod" matches it, it does not however have any actual gauges on it. I do have to get some pictures posted soon, I'll work on that. As far as the gasket, I would think the stuff from NAPA would be just find, I have yet to find any other information on it. As far as I can tell the seat backs and cushion were option, not standard issue with this boat.

On another note, the boat is painted now and the wood is cut for the transom and everywhere else I plan to add some. I am currently staining some and in a couple of days will start the spar varnishing.

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Thanks for the info. Looks good. Keep us updated. I'm planing on having a top made for my factory frame and making new seat backs and probably base cushions that would some how tie or strap on the benches.