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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Description

Smitty's Wet Dream is reached by following the approach to the Perhaps wall, and then following the wall downhill. Pass Cranial Prophylactic, and continue to the next crack system to the left.

Start up a small slab, heading into a very thin steep dihedral (Lime Line Variation 5.10d). Don't climb the dihedral, instead finger traverse left on a flake/crack. Once on the left face, climb up a short finger crack to a slab with a bolt. Clip this and head slightly right into a thin right facing dihedral. Follow this to the anchors, getting great face holds up higher.

Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch.

Protection

Very small gear and one bolt in the slab. A TR is also possible after climbing Cranial Prophylactic.

I really, really enjoyed this route. I'm currently working through all the 9's in the canyon and have done nearly all the classics, and I felt (having recently done a lot of the good ones) this deserved to be in the pantheon of must-do LCC 9's and 9+'s.

Really fun, varied moves. Different than anything I've climbed. Brassies are clutch for the thin dihedral placements.
May 13, 2013

Although none of the moves were very hard, this route was a head game for me. Maybe I am just not a slab climber, but I found the crux to be getting gear in the tiny crack between the bolt and the steep section. I was actually relieved to get to the steeps and make some bigger moves on vertical rock. Good route though. Be sure to bring your nuts. I don't think I've ever placed so many nuts on a route.
Nov 5, 2012

A great consistent route. I had heady mental moments with some moves on this route, but it's all there. Bring micro and other small nuts, and I got a .75 camalot in below the crux. I actually had a harder time down by the bolt, and you have to be thoughtful along most of the route.
Jun 12, 2009

Led Cranial Pro today and found it an easy 5.8 and disappointingly discontinuous and short. Decided to TR Smitty's and was grateful. I'm 99% certain I did Smitty's proper and think it would have been tough to get pro in from the bolt to the steep but easier face below the anchors. Hard 5.9 and hard to protect.
May 20, 2008

Hmm... I see... the route is a thin dihedral, I cruised the arete for most of the way thinking it seemed harder than 5.9 and wondering why there was a 30 foot runout above that bolt. Can't wait to try it again the right way. Good climb none the less!
Mar 18, 2007