Enfants Riches Déprimés poses a textbook case for our times: If you are a hot young artist and you create a collage from multiple influences, does that make the work your own? Increasingly, the answer depends on when you were born.

The short show Henri Alexander put on scanned Revenge of the Nerds for the kind of square kids who are actually cool enough to get stoned. The collection ticked a number of trend boxes, from oversize jackets and skinny leather trousers to a jacquard portrait sweater, a tapestry paneled coat, and American Spirit heels. Almost every piece was eminently wearable. Some merited a close-up viewing: the blue-and-white–striped trousers, for example, were bands of leather stitched together; the belt details were cast in sterling silver. White boots were scrawled with I am your master, among other things.

Backstage after the show, the designer cited, variously, Surrealist and Constructivist influences: “It’s a pastiche of different things I’m into, kind of Bauhaus and ’20s, ’30s, ’40s, with Kandinsky paintings, ’50s-inspired shapes, ’80s influences, [and] checkers. I feel like the brand has an ongoing relationship with chessboard-related art. It’s different arrangements. I really make it for myself.” You get the picture.