Breakfast at Dharma's

by Adam SandelThe Santa Cruz Sentinel,
Wednesday, January 12, 2000

You won't find fried eggs, but you'll find a tasty way to start your day.

Some people can't start the day without a big, hearty breakfast. Some of
us are good-to-go with a breakfast bar and a commuter mug of coffee as we fly
off into the face of morning traffic. If you're like me, the idea of a nice
leisurely breakfast is tremendously appealing, but the heart sinks every time
you open a breakfast menu to confront the same uninspired combination of eggs,
pancakes, toast and potatoes - with bacon, ham or sausage. When a Denver Omelette
seems like cutting-edge cuisine, you know you've hit breakfast blues bottom.

American's it seems cannot live without eggs for breakfast, which is why
they will stand outside your average breakfast joint for hours, waiting to
be seated. But for those who are seeking something more exciting than two eggs
over easy, Dharma's in Capitola serves up an array of adventurous, completely
vegetarian breakfasts and (as of this writing), there's no waiting at breakfast
time.

The 20-year-old Dharma's is pretty much a fixture
on the Santa Cruz restaurant scene with its share of local folklore (including
being sued by McDonald's). Many vegetarians flock to Dharma's for their hearty
vegetarian burgers, sandwiches, salads, burritos, pastas and international
veggie /rice specialties. Portions are intentionally oversized and take-home
containers readily available, "so
you're getting your next meal from Dharma's too," explains owner Bernie
Shapiro.

But their egg-free, completely vegetarian breakfast
menu far exceeds this diner's standard expectation of "healthy" food:
It's got to taste great, if it's good for you, then that's an added bonus.
(Tasteless food in the name of health is no virtue.) Dharma's Tofu Scrambles
come in a variety of styles. The basic scramble includes chopped green onions
and chiles (tomatoes, mushrooms, salsa, olives, artichokes or soy strips
can be added on request) and is served with home fries and toast.

The more adventurous breakfast buffs should put themselves in the hands of
the chef to experience the international zest of the Thai Tofu Scramble or
the Greek Tofu Scramble. The Thai Scramble, topped with fresh bean sprouts,
ground peanuts and a lime wedge, is made bold and slightly spicy by the addition
of Thai curry spice. The bright, spicy flavors are cooled by the crisp bean
sprouts and chopped green onion.

To experience the Greek Tofu Scramble (recommended by owner Shapiro and loyal
customers as well) is to plunge into the deep, rich, Mediterranean flavors
of spicy calamata olives, spinach, feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. The
deep green, brown and toasted auburn colors of this dish add tremendously to
its appeal.

No less flavorful, but a bit less exotic, is the Breakfast Burrito: a whole
wheat tortilla that's folded (not wrapped) around a hearty mound of home fries,
scrambled tofu, black beans, green onions, cheese and sour cream. The brightly
spicy home made salsa is served on the side, but is best slathered generously
across the burrito. A crisp side of lettuce topped with house dressing makes
this Breakfast Burrito a balanced meal in itself.

Dharma's pancakes (made of multi-grain or dairy-free corn meal) are healthy,
hearty and served with real maple syrup. Don't expect the feather-weight flapjacks
you'll find at IHOP or Denny's - these are much more flavorful and substantial.
Breakfast beverages include a bold and spicy Bolo Chai, house blend or decaf
organic coffee, many flavors of herb tea, organic apple and carrot juice and
freshly squeezed organic orange juice.

Steve, a Dharma's regular who's lived in many countries
including Asia and Germany, assured me that Dharma's is "the best vegetarian restaurant in
the world." Although I don't have the personal scope of experience to
confirm that statement, I can't remember the last time I had such a deliciously
adventurous breakfast.