unveils Lebanon’s hidden treasures
Spring has sprung!
Yes indeed… the sun is shining and we are no longer wearing our heavy coats! It is
time to go out and enjoy the outdoors!
River walks and horseback ridding are on our menu this season with a peripheral
visit to Anjar and its beautiful wilderness. If you are in the mood for lesser-traveled
paths you can get a taste of the southern Farid Serhal Castle or the Beirut Bibliopolis
featured in our hidden gem section.
Celebrating the return of sunshine we carry you (just like the bride) into the world of
the zalghouta and take you on a journey to learn more about our beloved kebbeh, a
dish that is delicious no matter how you cook it!
With 10 things to do in Beit Mery, Broumana and Baabdat you will spend a lovely day
in the Metn, discovering one of the most delightful villages in the country. If not, you
can always take of for the weekend with our choice of getaways in Batroun, Tripoli or
Deir Al Amar.
In the mood for shopping? Look no further! Taree abayas and unique jewelry from
Dehab gallery will satisfy your retail itch and have your style stand out from the rest.
As for the city dweller in you, our Beirut Pleasures new section will have you
entertained all week long, in various moods and diverse activities. Finally a full calendar
of hikes all around the country will have you exercising in the beautiful Lebanese
outdoors.
Spring is time to rejuvenate and with Lebanon’s traveler choice of activities you are
sure to get an optimal rebirth from the rainy season.
Have a wonderful spring!
The Lebanon Traveler team
Your feedback as a reader and as a user of this information is very important for us to
develop quality sustainable tourism in Lebanon. Enjoy and share your experience on
info@lebanontraveler.com

It is an awakening of the
self, a transformation
of one’s state of mind
and an exploration into
one’s strengths and
weaknesses....

16

10 places in Beit
Mery, Brummana
and Baabdet
that some locals
don’t even know
about...

22

28

Outings with your pet that will
allow both of you the chance to
get outdoors and socialize...

Although you must have an
appointment, the chance to
explore his fabulous collection is
definitely worth the effort...

42
What most of
us probably
donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know is
that kebbeh
is produced
and cooked
differently across
the country...

48

Discovering a unique embroidery technique that has
been a secret within a community...
5

Tourism contribution to
increase
The World Travel & Tourism Council
(WTTC) estimated that the travel and
tourism industries’ direct contribution to
the Lebanese economy would reach USD
4.1 billion in 2013, up by 1.8% from 2012.
When measured against the nominal GDP,
it accounted for 9.3% of the economy’s size
in 2012, a share that would slightly drop to
9% in 2013, as per WTTC. It added that
direct employment in the tourism industry
activities would reach 117,500, representing
8.7% of total employment in Lebanon this
year, down by 2.1% from 120,000 jobs
(9% of total employment) in 2012. The
total contribution of travel and tourism to
Lebanon’s GDP, including wider effects from
investment, the supply chain and induced
income impacts was at USD 11.1 billion
in 2012 (25.1 percent of GDP) and is
expected to grow by 2.3 percent to USD
11.4 billion in 2013.

Abboud launches blue
prints for religious
tourism
Minister of Tourism Fady Abboud
launched a general plan to develop
religious tourism in Lebanon, declaring
that such an endeavor will “enhance
the dialogue among the various
religions in Lebanon.” Religious
tourism in Lebanon has great features
that need to be highlighted. “What
makes Lebanon unique in that matter
is that it is one of the rare countries
that has sites pertaining to more than
one religion,” continues Abboud. The
plan includes building and managing a
database that will retain all information
regarding religious sites and places,
as well as creating a marketing plan
to develop religious tourism and
pilgrimage in Lebanon. “We do not
want Lebanon to be known solely
for its night tourism as Lebanon has
great potential for the development of
religious, historic and cultural tourism,”
concluded Abboud.
6

4th Beirut Water Week Summit
Notre Dame University (NDU) hosted the 4thBeirut Water Week Summit from 20 to
22 February 2013. The Ministry of Energy and Water along with more than 20 experts
and policy planners from different organizations, worked together for three days on the
Technological Tools and Financing Mechanisms for Integrated Water Resources Management
(IWRM): Complementing Hydro-diplomacy and Climate Change Adaptation Efforts.
Among the topics that were dealt with were Technological Tools in Water Planning and
Management, Climate Change Adaptation: New Water Mass, Risk Management; Financing
Water infrastructures: Role of the private Public Partnership and Water Transfer, Water,
Energy and Food, Challenges of the 21st Century, Control.

MEA receives green award

The 40 million forest tree initiative
Lebanon’s unique landscape holds
diversified but unique types of forests
with valuable environmental attributes.
Although different from other Middle
Eastern ecosystems, these cover 13% of the
country surface, while the other wooded
lands represent 11% of this area. The rapid
loss in the Lebanese green areas during
the last decade has prompted the public
and civil society to various reforestation
and afforestation initiatives. The Ministry
of Agriculture’s National Reforestation
Program (NRP) is designed to increase the
total surface of forests from 13% to 20%
in a 20-year period, while maintaining their
resilience against numerous hazards (urban
encroachment, fire risks, climate change
effects, etc…) protect the biodiversity of
the national forests against climate change,
overexploitation and erosion, as well as to
enhance and develop the forest economical,
environmental, social and cultural functions.
In compliance with the NRP objectives, the
ministry is launching a national initiative to
plant 40 million trees for recovering the
percentage lost in the last decade.

LEBANON MINISTRY OF TOURISM

Environment Minister, Nazem El Khoury,
presented Middle East Airlines (MEA)
the National Green Award because
while it strived to increase its fleet, it
kept the environment and specifically
CO2 emissions in mind. The newly
ordered 10 A320 neo-aircrafts will
save up to 15% in fuel and thus, an
estimated emission reduction of 36,000
tons of CO2 per year. The Ministry of
Environment in collaboration with the
United Nations Development Program
and Beyond magazine, held the
National Green Awards Ceremony at
a dinner at the Phoenicia Hotel. Green
Awards were granted to pioneers of
environmentally friendly initiatives. “The
objective of granting these awards
is to motivate citizens, institutions,
governmental and non-governmental
organizations to be concerned, as
environmental damage equally affects
the polluter and the receiver,” said the
Minister.

Bike4Peace
Organized by the Bikeathon Association Lebanon
and baldati.com, this event aims to promote cycling
as an exciting form of exercise, while creating
awareness of alternative transportation methods for
solving the city’s congestion problem. Like-minded
pressure groups will try to influence policy and
decision makers to design a friendly cycling road to
aid commuters. Bike4Peace will take place on Sunday,
April 14, 2013.

One-stop-shop
A one-stop-shop has recently been inaugurated at the headquarters of the
Ministry of Tourism. Its aim is to ease all transactions related to permits for
hotels, restaurants, swimming pools, car rentals, etc, by facilitating a means
to provide information to simplify the process of requests and operations
regarding the permits. With the latest in equipment, the office is able to
provide the quickest and best services. Citizens can also follow up the course
of their requests and transactions through this new office.
7

Lebanon: Beauty Beyond Belief

Published Turning Point
The captivating visual journey of discovery reveals the diverse
beauty of Lebanon’s natural landscapes, cherished traditions,
rich culture and vibrant lifestyle. Through the lens of renowned
Lebanese photographer, Jamal Saidi and his son, Ayman, Karah
Byrns narrates this journey, providing valuable context for the
vivid, colorful images. Divided into four thematic chapters: Nature,
Tradition, Culture and Lifestyle, each explores the wonders that
make Lebanon such a remarkable country.

Pure Nostalgia

By Imad Kozem
Compiled and published by Imad Kozem, Pure Nostalgia will take you back to the
golden era of Beirut, through its unique collection of photographs and memories.
This 500 page coffee table book is a time capsule that reveals the Beirut of the late
60’s and 70’s, when the “it” crowd danced at La Cave des Rois, when jetsetters took
a dip at St. Georges and when intellectuals met at the Modca and Horseshoe to
discuss philosophy. Gathering photos from private collections, AnNahar and AsSafir
archives, public libraries and other sources, it took 3 years for Pure Nostalgia to be
completed. With Pure Nostalgia, you will be a tourist of great times!

Delices des Mille et Une Nuits

Grund Editions
Designed around A Thousand and One Nights, the story begins with an invitation to travel back
in time to rediscover rich tastes and flavors. Kamal Mouzawak’s contributes a special collection
of fifty recipes, each conjuring up visions of the famed Baghdad court. Malek Chebel, a famed
psychoanalyst, anthropologist and historian, who works on Islam and the Arab culture, describes
the sophistication of life in Baghdad, while Anne-Lise Boutin’s palette of navy, black, reds, pistachio
green and ochre creates a fantasy-like world to get lost in.

Editor's choice

Apart from the latest titles, we have chosen a not
so new book that represents the spirit of Lebanon
for you to read while you travel the country

The Hakawati

By Rabih Alameddine
Though not a novelty on the shelves, Alameddine’s Hakawati shows us a unique side of
Lebanese life; one of family, survival and love. In 2003, Osama al-Kharrat returns to Beirut after
many years in America to stand vigil at his father’s deathbed. The city is a shell of the Beirut
Osama remembers, but he and his friends and family take solace in the things that have always
sustained them: gossip, laughter, and, above all, stories. Osama’s grandfather was a hakawati, or
storyteller, and his bewitching stories - of his arrival in Lebanon, an orphan of the Turkish wars,
and of how he earned the name al-Kharrat, the fibster - are interwoven with classic tales of
the Middle East, stunningly reimagined. Like a true hakawati, Rabih Alameddine has given us an
Arabian Nights for this century - a funny, captivating novel that enchants and dazzles from its
very first lines: “Listen. Let me take you on a journey beyond imagining. Let me tell you a story.”
8

Get your photo published
Lebanon Traveler is holding a photo competition, to choose the cover of its magazine. Talented
photographers from all over the country may submit their entries online to info@lebanontraveler.com
in order to be considered. Here are our top "Spring time" entries for this issue including the cover and
the "Take Me There" photo. Follow us on Facebook to know more about the upcoming competition.

cover
winner

Take
me
there

In collaboration with Nikon

+961 1 353742 / +961 1 347613
nikon.com.lb

9

READERS EXPERIENCES

Elsa J. Sattout
March 2013

A leap through time:
the Cedar forest
Cedar forests conserve a unique environment,
embedding the cultural and historical values
of the many civilizations that have crossed
the eastern Mediterranean. Praised by
missionaries and poets alike, they were also
etched by orientalists. Even now, exploring the Lebanese Cedar
forests will inspire and arouse your senses.

If you come in spring or summer,
it is possible to plant a baby
cedar on the reserve.
Just locate one of
the groundskeepers,
who will provide
tree, shovel and
water and help
you select a
suitable spot.

"The Cedars of God” forests, embodying the country's biological
and cultural legacy, are cited more than 70 times in the Holy
Bible. Be prepared for a long journey and demanding hikes when
visiting the “Cedar of God” forest in Bsharre. That the journey will
be both physically and mentally demanding, is known for those
that mountaineering is a passion. For them, it is an awakening
of the self, a transformation of one’s state of mind and an
exploration into one’s strengths and weaknesses.
On our journey, we metaphorically carried big bundles of wood
on our backs as we made our way up, collecting additional weight
till the point where fatigue took our breath away and we had to
stop to lie on the snowy tapestry, wondering if there was an end
in sight. Sleepy, tired and anxious - the mixture of feelings put
more pressure on our bodies and minds.
But thoughts of the majestic Cedar forest got us on our feet again
and we continued the hike refreshed in an inquisitive, as well as
eager state of mind, keen to discover more of its historical wealth.
At the end of the journey, once we reached the forest, the
day turned into a moment of meditation. We focused on the
harmony between man and nature and how we could mend this
bond, as the snowy rain trickled down and the soft winds blew
through the forest!
I have visited many forests around the Mediterranean, but there
are none as majestic as the Lebanese Cedar forests. Could it
be the feeling of belonging? But, even as a foreigner, you cannot
help but be attached to this land, which tells the story of a
country and of a region that is recognized as the cradle of many
civilizations.
Should you return to Lebanon, plan for an extended stay to
explore the remaining eleven Cedar forests and their villages
in Sweisse, Karm Chbat, Qammoua, Ehden, Tannourine, Jaje, Ain
Zhalta, Barouk, Maaser el Shouf and Niha. In these forests you will
not only be enchanted by the stillness of nature, which can tell
you more about the history of a country, a region and the many
civilizations that traversed it. A single day trip is like a quantum
leap, and is guaranteed to increase your thirst for more.
Elsa J. Sattout is an Assistant Professor in Biodiversity
Conservation & Sustainable Management at NDU
10

How to get there

Take the northern highway from Beirut and to Jounieh,
Byblos, Amchit and Chekka. From Chekka take the road
leading to Koura, Kosba, Hadeth El Jobbe, Hasroun, Bsharre
and Arz (Cedar). It is 160 km from the city and it will take
you 2 hours.
Bcharre Municipality +961 6 671068

" At the end of the journey,
once we reached the forest,
the day turned into a
moment of meditation "

Hikes

For an easy hike just follow the footpath remembering
how ever far you go, you need to factor in the return
journey.
For a moderate hike on a dirt road start from Hadeth
el Jobe, pass by Beka’kafra and then make a loop ending in
the Cedar of God forest.
For a difficult hike on a mix of footpath, dirt
and asphalt roads start from Ouadi Qadisha, pass by
Ouadi Qannoubine and then Hasroun and end a loop in the
Cedar of God forest.
For a difficult hike on a dirt road start from Oyoun
Orgosh, Dahr el Qadib and then go down on the slopes to
reach the Cedar of God forest.

The fountain of life
In this Spring issue, Pascal Abdallah of
Responsible Mobilities talks about water
Today nearly 1 billion people don’t have access to clean and
safe water. The United Nations has designated 2013 as the
International Year of Water Cooperation. A success story in
eradicating this issue is the ongoing Whole World Water campaign
designed to unite the hospitality and tourism industries on a noncompetitive platform. Recently, The Water Equity in Tourism - A
Human Right, A Global Responsibility report tackling water issues
was published and Lebanon held the 4rth Beirut Water Week
Summit.
All these activities have the same objective: conservation of natural
and cultural wealth. So let’s discover the excitement together.

Water cooperation worldwide
The fulfillment of basic human needs, our environment, socioeconomic development and poverty reduction are all heavily
dependent on water. Good management of water is especially
challenging due to some of its unique characteristics. It is unevenly
distributed in time and space, the hydrological cycle is highly
complex and perturbations have multiple effects.
Rapid urbanization, pollution and climate change threaten the
resource, while demands for water are increasing in order to
satisfy the needs of a growing world population, now at over
seven billion, for food production, energy, industrial and domestic
uses. Water is a shared resource and its management needs
to take into account a wide variety of conflicting interests. This
provides opportunities for cooperation among users.
In designating 2013 as the UN International Year of Water
Cooperation, the UN General Assembly recognizes that
cooperation is essential to strike a balance between the different

"The right to water constitutes
one of the most fundamental
human rights. However, for many
communities, particularly those
living in the global South, this
right is being compromised by
tourism development"
12

needs and priorities and share this precious resource equitably,
using water as an instrument of peace. Promoting water
cooperation implies an interdisciplinary approach bringing in
cultural, educational and scientific factors, as well as religious,
ethical, social, political, legal, institutional and economic dimensions.
2005 to 2015 UN Intl Decade for Action “Water for Life”
2013 The UN International Year of Water Cooperation
22 March 2013 The UN World Water Day

Highlights from water equity report
A report on water equity in tourism by Tourism Concern has
revealed the stark inequities of water access and consumption
between tourist resorts and local people in developing countries.
Featuring research from Bali, The Gambia and Zanzibar, as well
as Goa and Kerala in South India, the report finds that the
unsustainable appropriation, depletion and pollution of water
by poorly regulated tourism are threatening the environment,
while undermining living standards, livelihoods and development
opportunities of impoverished local communities.
These communities often remain excluded from the benefits
of tourism, but also include small businesses trying to earn a
living from the sector in a context where government policies
tend to favor international hotels and tour operators over local
entrepreneurs. This scenario is leading to social conflict and
resentment, while threatening the sustainability of the tourism
sector itself.
In Zanzibar Luxury hotels consume up to 3,195 liters of water
per room per day while the average household consumption
is 93.2 liters of water per day. Guards patrol hotel pipelines to
prevent vandalism by angry locals. A power cut led to a cholera
outbreak in which at least four villagers died after consuming well
water thought to have become contaminated with sewage from
nearby hotels.

In Goa In India, one five-star resort consumes some 1785
liters of water per guest per day,` while a neighboring resident
consumes just 14 liters of water per day. Community wells are
being abandoned due to contamination and declining water tables.
In the Gambia Women rise at 4 am to queue for hours at
water standpipes. Most hotels have private boreholes and
pumps to ensure a constant water supply, but fail to pay
for what they consume, despite the desperate need to
finance improvements to public water infrastructure.

What the report advises
The principles of water equity in tourism aim to capture the
essential points of the recommendations of the report Water
Equity in Tourism - A Human Right, A Global Responsibility by
Tourism Concern. The principles are underpinned by the notion of
water as a human right.
With respect to governments
• The right to water and sanitation should not be compromised
by tourism
• Governments should implement clear regulations for sustainable
and equitable water and tourism management
• Land use and tourism planning should be based on assessments
of water resources
With respect to the industry
• Tourism businesses should implement their business
responsibility to respect the right to water
• Tourism businesses should abide by the law
• Tourism businesses should reduce their water consumption
With respect to all
• Land use, tourism and water planning should be undertaken
participatively
• Governments and tourism businesses should be accountable to
local communities
• Cooperation to further water equity should be pursued by all
stakeholders

News
Whole World Water Campaign

This campaign is designed to eradicate the lack of clean
and safe water by uniting the hospitality and tourism
industries on a non-competitive program. But it is much
more than a fundraising initiative. It is
a revolutionary way of thinking, a new
way to do business designed to balance
environmental, health and economic issues
and is set to launch on World Water Day,
22 March 2013.

Leveraging the potential of the hospitality
and tourism industry to spur global change,
the model encourages spas, hotels, resorts
and restaurants to filter, bottle and sell
their own water, and contribute 10% of the
proceeds to the Whole World Water Fund,
a fund benefiting clean and safe water
programs around the world. An exclusive
bottle created by world-renowned product
designer Yves Behar and fuseproject will
serve as the recognizable icon for the
campaign, while ClimateCare, pioneers
in climate and development projects and results based
financing, will manage the Fund.
“Since 2008, Soneva Resorts, Residences and Spas have
banned imported water in favor of bottling its own
filtered water,” said Sonu Shivdasani, founding member
of the campaign. “Revenues were contributed to clean
drinking water initiatives whose work has meant water
access for over 600,000 people previously denied. Our
resorts have proved that this solution works.”
Industry leaders Soneva,Virgin Limited Edition,Virgin
Hotels, Banyan Tree, Auberge du Soleil, Tao Restaurant
Group, The Ritz-Carlton Charlotte, The Ritz-Carlton
Lake Tahoe, Oberoi Hotels and Resorts, Dusit Hotels
and Resorts, JetWing Hotels, and The Ranch at Live Oak
Malibu have joined the campaign.
How the campaign works

“This model reduces shipping pollution, financial and
environmental costs, and it’s good for business,” said Sir
Richard Branson, founder at Virgin Group.
“We estimate that with scale, the hospitality and tourism
industry can contribute USD 1 billion per year or more
to help eradicate this global issue,” said Karena Albers, cofounder of the campaign, which is currently accepting new
members to join its existing group of industry leaders.
wholeworldwater.co

13

Water theme tour in Lebanon
One of the most significant water theme tours is the “Water Life
Cycle” that Responsible Mobilities (RM) operates in the region of
Kesrewan. It stretches from the snowy heights of Ouyoun El Siman
to the Nahr El Kalb river mouth, passing by Nabaa El Laban’s
water source and the stone bridge, the Chabrouh water dam and
Jeita grotto.
If you are a keen tourist and want to discover this beautiful region
in a responsible way, while meeting with the local population to
understand how water management and contribution tourism can
add towards this natural resource, you should follow the RM tour
companion.

First day

Stage 1 Start your journey with a snowshoeing tour from Qanat
Bakish to Ouyoun El Siman. Your local guide Nassib Aakiby will
lead you through the snow-covered hills and reveal the tracks of
foxes and hares that have adapted to the winter climate.
Stage 2 See how the slow melting snow fills the underground
water cisterns and gushes forth in the form of water sources.
Stage 3 After completing the snowshoeing trek, continue to
Nabaa El Laban water source, which is a great example of the
hydrogeological system, and take a photo (without climbing on
top) of the nearby huge natural bridge, known locally as the Stone
Bridge, which is fine example of the effect of water erosion.

14

Stage 4 Then, listen to a member of the Kfardebian municipality
talk about the advantages of such a natural resource in their
region, water issues and future projects. Part of the water goes
to irrigation, another is directed to the Chabrouh water dam to
supply the villages and the remaining continues its journey to the
sea flowing in the riverbed.
Stage 5 Another must-see spot in the neighborhood is the
archeological site of Kalaat Faqra that overlooks the valleys of
Keserwan towards the west. A quick outside visit in wintertime is
sufficient to understand the importance of water management to
the ancient civilizations.
Stage 6 On the way to Chabrouh water dam, you can stop and
drink fresh water at Nabaa El Aassal. At the dam you will find an
enormous but peaceful manmade water reservoir and indoor
water filtration tanks.
Stage 7 End your day at Auberge Beity in the town of Kfardebian
with a hot lentil soup prepared by Josephine Zgheib, the owner
of the youth hostel and member of Hostelling International and
DHIAFEE.

Second day

Stage 1 Start the day on a hiking trek with your local guide in
Wadi EsSaleeb and follow the ancient Roman stairway to the
valley below. You will reach the bridge and the water mill built two
centuries ago by the riverside. The hike continues on the cleared
trail near the river, leading to St John’s refurbished church and
three vernacular houses. St John symbolizes the element of water
because he baptized Jesus Christ in the Jordan River.

" Meet with the
local population to
understand how water
management and
contribution tourism can
add towards this natural
resource "

Stage 2 A picnic lunch prepared by the local community may be
taken on site.
Stage 3 Proceed to the spectacular Jeita Grotto to understand
not only the beauty of nature but also the karst system
and underground waters. Tourism is criticized in such fragile
ecosystems unless it is well managed, as is the case by Jeita Grotto
team.
Stage 4 To complete the Water Life Cycle tour, end your visit at
the mouth of Nahr El Kalb river by the seacoast and enjoy the
historical steles and the Ottoman period bridge. Immortalize your
passage with a group photo on the arched bridge.

You’ve been to Jeitta Grotto, visited the National Museum and explored the Roman ruins in
Baalbeck. These are all must-see attractions, but for a little variety, Lebanon Traveler has picked
10 places in Beit Mery, Brummana and Baabdat that even some locals don’t know about

1. Aqueduct of Zubaida

Heading up towards Beit Mery, in the secluded river valley
between Mansourieh and Hazmieh, you will find the remains
of a Roman aqueduct that was built to convey water across
the Beirut River onwards to the city. Built in 273 AD during
the reign of Roman emperor Aurelian, the arched bridge-like
structure over the aqueduct is known today as “Qanater esSett Zubaida” or the Arches of Mistress Zubaida.

16

2. Beit Mery

The three hills, which make up this town, have been home to summer vacationers since the times of the Phoenicians and Romans. Its
pleasant weather and lush pine forests overlooking Lebanon’s valleys and sea make it a favorite resort spot for those trying to beat
the heat. Beit Mery (derived from the Aramaic term for “the house of my lord or master”) has two prehistoric archaeological sites
where flint industries have been found by Jesuit archaeologists. One is on the right bank of the Beirut River, south southwest of the
town, the other is east of the road from Beit Mery to Deir el Kalaa, on a sloping plateau facing the junction of the Nahr Meten and
Nahr Jamani
Municipality +961 4 870702
Deir el Kalaa Country Club + 961 4 972989
Al Janna restaurant +961 4 873120
Restaurant Ain Al Khasfeh + 961 4 870912
Tiger restaurant + 961 4 870564

3. Deir el Kalaa

This Maronite Monastery of Saint John the Baptist, and its ancient
Roman and Byzantine ruins, rests on three levels. At the top are
the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to the god “baal marqod”
over which a church dedicated to Saint John was constructed in
1750. The old church is incorporated into the present early 20th
century structure. A short walk down the hill leads to a small
second century AD temple to the goddess June. Of particular note
is the mosaic floor of a 6th century Byzantine church with one of
the reused temple columns in place. Nearby is a remarkably wellpreserved public bath. Once a Roman-Byzantine settlement, the
entire site is littered with remains of more temples, a second bath
and a colonnaded street.

All photos on this page are courtesy of Myriam Shuman

+961 4 870080

17

4. Al Bustan Hotel

A local landmark in Beit Mery and the site of an annual
festival of music and art, Al Bustan or “the orchard” in
Arabic is a five-star hotel with a commanding view over
Beirut and the Mediterranean. Founded by Emile Bustani
and his wife Laura in 1962, it houses a growing collection
of art, sculpture, and antiquities in its 117-room facility.
+961 4 972980

Printania Palace Hotel Garden

5. Brummana

The House of Rammana the god of air, storm and thunder,
doesn’t seem like where you would find thousands of
tourists eager to escape the summer heat, but despite its
namesake, Brummana has a relatively cool climate all year
long. The town’s 6km long main street is lined with shops,
restaurants, bars and café’s that come alive after dark. If you’re
in the mood for French cuisine, Le Gargotier is a quaint
spot that’s especially romantic in the brisk winter months
and for traditional Lebanese fare, Brummana has some of
the best restaurants in the country. Their old-world charm
and spectacular views of the city, offer guests a one-of-kind
experience. If you’d like to spend the weekend in town, there
are numerous hotels to choose from including the charming
Printania Palace Hotel, the iconic Grand Hills Hotel & Spa, or
for the budget conscious, Hotel Le Crillon.
Printania Palace Hotel +961 4 862000
Grand Hills Hotel & Spa +961 4 868888
Hotel Le Crillon +961 4 8655555
Le Gargotier +961 4 960562
Burj El Hamam +961 4 862211
Mounir +961 4 873900
Kasr Fakhreddine +961 4 960407

Photo courtesy of Myriam Shuman
18

Photo courtesy of Myriam Shuman

6. Bits and pieces

For those that like bric a brac, look out for Raja Raad's
collection of old pieces from Lebanese houses that you
can buy, anything from an old window to a marble slab.
+961 3 450936

7. Ayn Asalaam

Brummana wouldn’t be what it is today without the Swiss
missionary Theophilus Waldmeier and the Quakers. In 1873,
he climbed the steep mountain on horseback with his eight
children and purchased a vast stretch of land called “Berket
al-Ghanem” (the Pool of the Conqueror) which was later
changed to “Ayn al-Salam”, (the Fountain of Peace). He did this
with the help of the Society of Friends in England who gave
him the funds with the intent that he would build a school for
the local girls and boys. The isolated mountain area quickly
flourished and was even the location of the first tennis court
in the Middle East. Brummana High School (BHS) continues
to operate under the same principles of peace and goodwill
till this day. It hosts numerous cultural and educational events
throughout the year including the May festival, a summer
retreat for children and an international tennis tournament.
BHS +961 4 960430/1/2

19

8. Deir Mar Chaaya

In 1700 the Antonin Maronite Order was founded in the
Monastery of Mar Chaya by Patriarch Gabriel of Blaouza.
The modern day structure is surrounded by several
community based activities and meeting areas. Before
you reach the valley, the main road heading down is a
popular walking track especially in summer. As you head
uphill, you’ll find a small chapel on your right hand side, as
well as an organic market with fresh produce and a small
zoo. All of the products sold in the store are grown and
cultivated on the grounds, including a selection of wine
from locally grown grapes. Dairy products are sourced
from the numerous cows on the property and farm fresh
eggs are always a treat to find each morning. The kids will
love watching the animals prance around, and when the
weather gets warmer they can even go on a pony ride.
+961 4 862813

Photo courtesy of Christina Nehma Gaspar

10. Baabdat

Since the opening of the highway a few years ago, this mainly
summer resort town has blossomed into a full-fledged
community, with residents living all year round. The name
Baabdat is derived from the Aramaic words “beit abdutha”
meaning the home of adoration. Famous locals include the
former president of Lebanon, Emile Lahoud, film director
Carmen Labaki, director/actress Nadine Labaki and Maxime
Chaya – the first Lebanese to climb Everest. The views from
Baabdat are stunning. It has numerous historic churches like
Saint Mamas Church built in the 16th century. For those that
like exploring it also has many springs. Before heading down to
Beirut, stop by Azrak for an ice cream cone in Chamees and
make the ride back, a refreshing one.
Municipality +961 4 820097
Azrak Pastry & Ice Cream +961 3 633022
Eat at Le Tournant Restaurant +961 3 459523
Stay at Colibri Hotel +961 4 820269
20

Photo courtesy of Christina Nehma Gaspar

9. Seven Churches

On the Thursday before Easter known as Maundy or Holy
Thursday, the washing of the feet is a traditional component of
the celebration (symbolizing Jesus washing the Apostles’ feet)
followed by an informal visit to seven churches. Those who
follow tradition today usually need a car to embark on such a
journey, but if you’re in the area of Brummana, you can do it by
foot. Starting from Printania Palace Hotel, head straight through
Brummana’s old town and the first church is Mar Gerius of
the Greek Orthodox faith, followed by Mar Chaaya Maronite
church. Continue walking to Mar Charbel church and you’ll see
two very old chapels, both named Mar Gerius across the street.
Your last stop here will be the Azarieh church located on the
grounds of a school belonging to the Azarieh nun’s order. A
short hop to the main street is the location of the seventh and
final church, Mar Elias in front of Farrouj el Achkar, where you’ll
find the best chicken sandwiches in town.
Also see the Church of the Prophet Isaiah – the oldest structure
in Brummana dating back to 333 B.C.
Municipality +961 4 860860
Try Farrouj el Achkar +961 4 862443

Getting there

The easiest way to get to this area of Metn (the
mountains) is to take the Emile Lahoud highway from
Nahr el Mot and get off on the Baabdat exit. If you are
near Sin el Fil, Beit Mery is easily accessible from the
Mkalles roundabout. Get on the road heading east. You
will drive through Mansourieh and Ain Saadeh before you
reach Beit Mery on the mountain-top. Follow the road to
Brummana and Baabdeth, where you can take the highway
heading back towards Beirut. The scenic road is even
better on your way down with beautiful panoramic sea
views.
21

A DAY WITH

Hiking with your pet
Weekends are ideal to spend quality time with your pet,
especially after being locked inside an office all week. Bechara
from Bright Animals tells you how

22

A pet can be your best friend and a treasured companion. Having
them around makes you feel happy and secure. Bright Animals
offers you an outing with your pet that will allow both of you the
chance to get outdoors and socialize.
On most weekends, you can head to the meeting point designated
by Bright Animals for a hike with your whole family. There, you will
meet similar minded people who appreciate pets and value their
presence… just make sure your dog is on a leash and off you go!
Tested ahead of time, the hike is usually easy and will not be more
than 3 hours. Should small children who cannot complete the
entire trip accompany, a guide will escort you through a shortcut
to the final destination, which is where your group will have lunch
that you would have chosen ahead of time from a varied menu.
“Sometimes we get groups as big as 80 people with over 40
dogs and it is fantastic to see all of them gathered together,” said
Bechara Hitti, trainer of Bright Animals.
Safety is of utmost importance for the Bright Animals crew, who
make sure to be with you at all times to avoid any incidents. This is

also the reason for dogs to remain on leashes in order to prevent
unnecessary confusion.
The walks are easy and fun, however if the team leader notices
any behavior that that could be corrected, they offer tips on
positive reinforcement that could be useful when training dogs.
“To insure a peaceful walk, we try to screen the participants.
Aggressive dogs are not included as they might pose a threat
to the other pets. Loud radios and guns are also banned. It is all
about communing with nature and bonding with your pet so
nothing should distract you from that,“ says Hitti.
The hikes usually take place in the mountainous Metn area.
“Unfortunately there aren’t many dog friendly places in Lebanon,
so we have to be further away from civilization. The Metn is still
quite green, has many interesting and easy trails and is a central
location, making it close to all.
If you feel like spending some time with your beloved pet and
meeting other dog lovers in your area, join the animal lovers for a
one of a kind outing!

Good to know
In spring and fall when the weather is fair, Bright Animals
organizes monthly hikes in various area
facebook.com/brightanimals for update on events
Contact Bechara Hitti +961 3 427487

23

Writer and editor, Derek Issacs
reveals walks where dogs are
more than welcome
Anyone who lives in Lebanon and owns
a dog would have noticed the lack of
available walking space in the city. Yet,
there is no reason why your dog cannot
enjoy a ramble away from the hustle and
bustle of city life and have a jolly good
romp in the countryside. Owning a dog
in Lebanon is no easy task. Those who
do will know how difficult it is to walk a
dog among a society, which fundamentally
is unaccustomed to reacting appropriately. After all, I should
know. I own four – Austin, Foxy Lady, Lucy and Sunday.
I’ve lost count how many times I have bundled my furry
friends into the back of my car and headed to the mountains
or coast. One such trip was to the Metn area close to
Hamana, famous for its abundance of cherries and miles of
woodland. Upon arriving to the area, all one has to do is turn
off the main road and onto the quiet back roads. I guarantee
that you will soon stumble across a wooded area or open field
where it is safe to unleash your dogs and go for a long walk.
One of my favourite haunts to visit with my dogs is the beach.
Of course, luxury beach resorts are unlikely to allow you in
with your dog, but all is not lost. Lebanon is teeming with public
beaches, many of which are fairly quiet all summer long. If you
don’t wish to travel too far out of Beirut then Ramlet el Baida’s
sandy beach may suffice. Personally, I prefer to go further afield
and head north to Batroun. Along the same coast where White
Beach is situated are a number of public beaches. Although not
sandy, the clear blue waters are simply beyond belief. There is
even a public beach in Batroun town center. Memories of my
dogs and I splashing in and out of the water last summer will
make sure that we will return again this year.
‘Oh, but I don’t have a car’ I hear you say. Well don’t give
up just because you lack your own transportation. Use the
bus. Last year, after my car broke down, I rode with Austin,
my eldest dog, on a bus all the way to Batroun. It is worth
remembering that not all bus drivers will let you ride with your
dog. But never give up. Try the next bus that comes along. The
key is to smile and be friendly.
If riding a bus with your dog is not your thing, a number of
hiking companies will allow your dog to accompany you on a
hiking tour and at no extra cost. It doesn’t hurt to call the hiking
companies and ask. Of course, the dog in question will have to
be on his or her best behaviour and be good with people.
Derek A Issacs has lived in Lebanon for 11 years and is the Executive
Editor of Adam Levant, a magazine ‘For the Man of the Middle East’. He
also runs a successful copy writing company called Wordclinic.
wordclinic.net
24

The lack of dog friendly places
Some irresponsible dog owners are giving dogs a bad
name. They let them do their business anywhere and
never pick up after them, which is why very few places
allow dogs. It is very important that each pet owner
applies the “they poop, you scoop” policy, which will help
open doors to more dog-friendly places.

25

HIDDEN GEMS

An overriding passion
Over the years Joseph Matar, a poet and
artist, became very close friends with Farid
Serhal, a Member of Parliament for Jezzine,
and witnessed Serhal building his dream
palace
In 1956, Matar used to visit the Anatomy Hall of the French
Medical Faculty in Beirut, which was under the direction of
Professor Farid Serhal. He studied and made drawings of the
morphology of human bodies, forms and proportions. Serhal took
an interest in his work.
One day, he told him that on the southeast side of Jezzine, he
owned a vast stretch of land with vineyards and fields, and a little
house with a cellar for wine and arak. Serhal invited him over one
day, suggesting that Matar should paint a fresco on the wall of a
room that came out onto a terrace. Matar thought of painting a
dance of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and intoxication, or a
dance of fairies under the vines.
26

In 1964, on a trip back to Lebanon from Madrid and Paris where
Matar was studying, Serhal told him that his cellars and his house
had been demolished and that in their place, a “great palace” had
risen. During this time Serhal had collected hundreds of books
on Greek and Roman sculpture and on all kinds of art, whether
Byzantine, Arab, Italian Renaissance, French or Spanish. There were
the most beautiful castles and palaces of Paris, the river Loire,
London, Persia, Ancient Egypt and Russia of the Czars.
He also collected carpets with the signatures of known artisans,
antiques, old furniture, mosaics, opaline, sculptures, bronze and
paintings.
A score of stonemasons labored at the site every day, reproducing
capitals, details, structures, reliefs, moldings and projections to a
tee. This castle was a reflection of the dreams, vision, fantasies
and imagination of Serhal. It was truly a colossal undertaking. The
palace was his life, his sole subject of conversation, his passion, his
folly. The façade, pediment and entrance as Heliopolis, were all on
the grandest scale.

The monument had become simply a wing - one wing of
a construction project, now attached to another wing by a
magnificent central portal, so now the whole edifice had doubled in
area. Serhal went around the antique dealers of Damascus, Aleppo,
Turkey, Iran and Iraq collecting for the palace in order to fill it. Then,
in 1975 the disturbances began. Work slowed down, and came
to a dead halt a few years later, as a result of the general situation
and the passing away of Serhal himself. Serhal Palace is now open
to the sightseeing public just like Heliopolis, Beiteddine, Byblos and
other touristic sites, the difference being it is by appointment only.

Follow the Saida - Hlayliyye - Majdelyun - Salhiyye - Lebea Roum - Homsiye road. The village is located on the slopes
of Tumat Niha and is surrounded by pine forests.

27

HIDDEN GEMS

Bibliopolis
Although you must have an appointment to
visit this library, owned by Antoine Abi Heila
- a dealer, restorer and polymath - the chance
to explore his fabulous collection of 16th 20th century books is definitely well worth
the effort
Located on the ground floor of a quiet building in Tabaris,
Bibliopolis is artfully decorated with curiosities such as shoes from
different periods of Abi Heilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life. Bibliopolisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; main attraction
however, not surprisingly given the name, is books. Opened some
10 years ago, it is not commercially viable, but it is a pleasure and
even more so, a passion.
In the 1970s, at the age of 18, he discovered that a contemporary
edition of Madame Bovary by Gustave Flaubert was 10 French
francs, and a new edition was the same price. So, Abi Heila
preferred to buy the 19th century edition in a nice leather binding.
28

For him, the cover, the illustrations and the binding of the book
were just as important as the text itself. He wanted to hold the
book, to feel it and see it on his shelves, a far cry from the current
state of e-book technology.
Arabic, French, Syriac, Hebrew, Latin and Geez (an ancient
Ethiopian language) are only a sampling of the languages found
inside, what can only be described as Aladdin’s cave of literary
treasures. Although some items, such as an Ottoman “perpetual
calendar” and a papal decree from 1690 are kept under glass, AbiHeila readily handles the other books carefully.
He opens his books on an ornate wooden stand and points out
that when opening and holding a book, you should never open
it wide because it could break the spine. As a book preservation
advisor, married to a book restorer, he should know.
Inside Bibliopolis is the workshop where the Abi-Heilas carry out
book and manuscript preservation and restoration. Unlike art
restoration, book restoration doesn’t have to be invisible. It can
be evident but discreet. It is also important that a restoration be
reversible so that a future restorer, in years to come, can remove
for instance the acid-free tape used to repair the book without
any damage to it.
Abi-Heila’s wife Rita is the expert book-restorer of the two. She
studied restoration for four years in France. The two now work
together on major restorations, which he emphasizes are mainly
for serious collectors or museum pieces, as they can be quite
expensive.
A highlight of Abi-Heila’s collection was what he says is the first
printed book to mention Beirut and Tripoli, written by Luduvico
di Varthema (1470-1517), a traveler and friend of Christopher
Columbus. The book, Itinerario de Luduvico de Varthema
Bolognese, was printed in 1515.
According to Abi-Heila, there are only two other known existing
copies, one at The British Museum and the other at The Bavarian
State Library. Written in German, Varthema’s book is best known
as the first description of the pilgrimage to Mecca by a nonMuslim.
When asked about the shoes, he explained that the leather
sandals were from when he was in Paris during what he called
his revolutionary Trotskyite period, the gentlemanly brogues
represented his bourgeoisie period, the high-class slippers his
academic phase, etc… Which shoes will represent his Bibliopolis
years we wondered?

Let’s go horseback riding
Horses have played an important role throughout human history, both in warfare and in
peaceful pursuits. Man and horse have shared a long relationship together and still do in sport
This faithful companion, used as a working animal to pull carriages
or plow the land, was also a warhorse in the cavalry. And though
the use of horses has become obsolete, horseback riding remains
to date, a very distinguished sport.

to perform from memory a series of predetermined movements”,
dressage is a beloved competitive sport. Its main purpose is to
develop, through standardized progressive training methods, the
horse’s natural athletic ability and willingness to perform, thereby
maximizing its potential as a riding horse.

Types of sports
Sports that use horses are quite varied and each one requires
a unique set of skills to master. Apart from the normal trekking
and cross-country rides, there are competitive sports that take
perseverance and training. Let’s take a look at a few of them:
Show Jumping
This requires navigating a course of jumps set up inside a stadium
designed for equestrian events. In a show jumping event, the
stamina, speed and flexibility of the horse are tested, along with
the relationship that the horse has with its rider. Winners are
determined depending on the least number of faults accumulated
and the overall speed with which the course is completed. Faults
are mainly awarded when parts of the fence jumped fall or when
a horse refuses to jump a fence.
Dressage
Defined by the International Equestrian Federation as “the highest
expression of horse training” where “horse and rider are expected
30

Beirut
Hippodrome
The Beirut Hippodrome hosts horse racing every
Sunday. Though we do not condone betting, a visit to the
hippodrome can be an interesting outing. Horse races have
their own community and culture and although you will
not see the elegant hats of the international opens, you will
certainly meet interesting individuals who will give you some
unique pointers. Races take place every Sunday at 1.30pm.
There are usually 7 races scheduled.

Getting
there
After passing National Museum, take a left on the highway
and turn back after the first U turn. The entrance of the
Hippodrome will be on your right.
+961 1 632515
beiruthorseracing.com

Polo
Polo is a team sport played on horseback in which the objective is
to score goals against an opposing team. Players score by driving a
small white plastic or wooden ball into the opposing team's goal
using a long-handled mallet. The traditional sport of polo is played
at speed on a large grass field and each polo team consists of
four riders and their mounts. Polo is also known as the “Sport of
Kings”. Surely you have seen a picture or two of princes William
and Harry playing polo.
Rodeo
Rodeo, the ultimate cowboy’s sport, is divided into several
activities that include bareback riding and saddle bronc riding.
Bareback riding produces some of the wildest action in the sport.
Throughout the eight seconds ride, the cowboy must grasp the
rigging (a handhold made of leather and rawhide) with only one
hand and hold on to his ride till the end. The rider is judged on
his control during the ride and on his spurring technique. Saddle
bronc riding is the rodeo's "classic" event. Participants compete
to see who can display the best style while riding untrained
horses. Each rider must begin his ride with his feet over the
bronc's shoulder to give the horse the advantage. A rider who
synchronizes his spurring action with the animal's bucking efforts
will receive a high score.

Advantages of horseback riding
Riding a horse can be beneficial to your health and well being, as it
involves a lot of discipline, exercise, the outdoors and being in sync
with another creature.
Physical benefits
Horseback riding improves respiration and blood circulation as all
exercises do. What makes it different is that the activity involves
having good posture on the back of the horse for an extended
period of time, which translates to better posture overall for the
rider. It promotes balance and coordination during the movement
of the horse and the motor functions of the rider improves as a
result. A seasoned horseback rider will also develop great sensory
integration with their surroundings, developing alertness and the
ability to perceive and handle emergency situations better.
Emotional benefits
Apart from the obvious health benefits of horse riding, the
emotional aspect of it should not be taken lightly. Countless folks
who have taken up horseback riding report the enjoyment they
experience during the ride. The sense of enjoyment is derived
from both the joy of riding and feeling connected with the great
outdoors. The heartfelt satisfaction leads to lower stress levels and
optimism in their daily lives.
Psychological benefits
A horse is a large animal. In order to ride a horse properly, a rider
needs to exert control and master the skills required to make
the horse respond to your commands. Achieving control over a
large animal instills enormous self-esteem and confidence that are
beneficial in facing everyday challenges.

10 tips for beginners
Riding horses can be great fun, but as a beginner, there are some
important things to keep in mind:
1. Wear the right clothes
Wearing the right clothes is important. Helmets can either be
purchased or borrowed from the riding school. Boots are the
preferred footwear with a 1-2cm heel, as small heels prevent
slippage from the stirrups.
2. Be careful when approaching a horse
Approaching a horse cannot be done from any direction. There is
a special technique involved. The horse needs to be approached
from the side near the shoulder. Coming straight at a horse
means it cannot see you because of its blind spots.
3. Use a mounting block
Mounting a horse from the ground, especially for beginners, is
not recommended as it puts a strain on the rider’s back, physical
pressure on the horse and also dislodges the saddle.
4. Keep your heels down
When mounted, a beginner needs to keep the heels in the down
position in the stirrups so as to be prepared for an occasion
when the horse stops suddenly. This is to avoid the possibility of
the rider flying over the horse’s head when unprepared.
5. Keep your shoulders back
Maintaining posture where the shoulders roll back and not
forward helps to keep the rider’s back straight and avoid the
horse pulling the rider forward.
6. Hold the reins properly
For better control over the horse, the rider’s hands need to be
still to maintain continuous contact with the reins. The right way
to hold the reins is to take one in each hand and hold them
between the little finger and the third finger. Keep thumbs on
top, facing upward with fingers gently curled around the reins.
7. Don’t look down
When the ‘eyes up’ rule is followed, the rider can plot the course
and steer around obstacles better.
8. Work on your balance
Maintaining proper balance on a horse comes with practice and
needs to be developed over time. Balance is related to correct
posture.
9. Dismount carefully
The rider begins to dismount by first removing feet from the
stirrups. Holding the reins with the left hand, the rider leans
forward, raises the right leg high to clear the horse’s haunches
and the saddle, and pushing forward jumps to the ground.
10. Thank your horse
Always give your horse a pat or a treat after dismounting as a
thank you. In many cases you are encouraged to brush down
your mount so as to form a stronger bound.
31

32

Design www.hibamikdashi.com

www. destinationlebanon.gov.lb

Learn it â&#x20AC;Ś enjoy it!
Many clubs in Lebanon offer horseback riding classes as well as
unique rides in the outdoors. Take your pick from and make sure
to reserve your place before you head out.
The Lebanese Equestrian Club
(Club Hippique Libanais)
The club offers riding classes and obstacle jumping starting from
the age of six. For more experienced riders, the main arena is lit
specifically for nighttime riding. Private stables are available for
horse owners.
Cecile El Solh +961 3 217736

Mechref Club
Mechref club offers classes in horseback riding and obstacle
jumping starting from the age of 5. For those who fancy a ride in
the village, trail tours are available and these last about an hour or
two. Make sure to book ahead of time.
USD 30/40 minute class - USD 30/hour of trail tour
Mohammad Al Dana +961 3 505505

Zeghrine Club (Metn)
Zeghrine Club is a professional school that trains beginners in
jumping and dressage. The pony club receives children as young
as two years old for training. For those who wish to explore the
beautiful wilderness of the Metn, the club offers two-hour rides in
the forest for more experienced riders.
USD 30/session - USD 100/2hour nature ride
Georges Sassi +961 3 632433

Valley Club Aintoura
The Poney Club at Valley Club Aintoura will teach your kids
horseback riding, jumping and dressage starting from the age of
seven. For those who wish to try out riding, guided tours are
available as well as private stables and classes.
USD 30/session
Mona Daher +961 3 522822

Faqra Club
Learn horseback riding, jumping and dressage in the beautiful
Keserwan area. The pony club trains kids from the age of 4 to 18.
Private stables and private classes are also available.
+ 961 9 300500

Watching
competitions
The Lebanese Equestrian Federation monitors the sport
in the country, organizes competitions and takes riders
abroad. Though jumping obstacles has been practiced
for a long time in Lebanon, dressage has recently been
introduced. As a matter of fact, last year the Lebanese
delegation won the bronze medal at the Qatar Arab
Competition. For those interested in watching horseback
riding competitions and performances, the LEF organizes
an event every Sunday at various clubs in Lebanon, from
horse shows to jumping and dressage competitions.
Check out the program at equileb.com or chl-lebanon.com
34

Essential Equipment

Aley Equi Club
Aley Equi Club offers horseback riding and obstacle jumping
classes, as well as a unique ride in the forest that lasts seven hours.
However, the club ensures your riding skills before you embark on
this long journey.
17 USD/30 mint - 24 USD/50 mint - 75 USD nature ride
+961 5 558112

River Ranch Riding School
This professional riding school offers beginner and advanced
classes in horseback riding and obstacle jumping from the age of
six. River Ranch’s unique experience is a ride in the river and on
the shore. While in the river, the water is sometimes so deep that
the horse is immersed in it. On the beach you will enjoy riding
over golden sands and crashing waves. These outings however are
reserved for advanced riders.

Joella Kattouah Tabet, owner of Equisystem, sheds light on
the most important piece of equipment you can buy for
yourself and for the horse.
1. The Helmet
This essential piece of equipment should be the first thing
you buy for yourself once you start practicing the sport
regularly. Make sure it is light, well aerated, comfortable and
fashionable to ensure you will wear it. You should never go
horseback riding without your helmet.
2. The Saddle
This is the most expensive piece of equipment you will
ever buy for horseback riding. The saddle should be
comfortable for you and for the horse. It is usually double
sided to fit these requirements. A quality saddle can be
passed on from generation to generation, making it a very
sound investment!

Bzebdine Hidden Valley
Bzebdine Hidden Valley takes kids from the age of six to introduce
and train them in horseback riding. Nature trails are available for
those who wish to ride in the surrounding pine forest.
25 USD/session - 15 USD/half session - Trail rides 25 USD/50 mint
Tony Germany +961 3 466662

El Rancho
A variety of horseback riding options are offered at El Rancho.
You can begin by learning the basics of good riding, enjoy a ride in
the forest or if you are a member of the club, you can learn and
practice the art of the rodeo!
33 USD/lesson - 40 USD/ride in the forest
Jose Daoud +961 3 777086 or +961 1 392880

Spring Hills Country Club
This professional riding school’s main focus is your little ones. They
will learn to ride, jump obstacles and dressage techniques with
the help of a well-trained staff. Being in the outdoors and bonding
with a horse will be highly beneficial for your little tots.
125 USD/10 sessions - 800 USD/30 sessions.
+961 1 681242

Crazy Rafting
Located in Hermel, Crazy Rafting offers the joys of horseback
riding for all those who come to their club, seeking adventure
and high adrenaline activities. After spending the day, you can take
advantage of the riding facilities for free.
+961 3 743051

Equisystem - La Sellerie du Liban is not
just a place to get a pair of boots and a
helmet.
It is a whole environment revolving
around horses. You will find qualities
and choices for all budgets, whether
you are a novice horseback rider or an
already confirmed professional.
At Equisystem, you will find standard
items as well as horse clipper machines,
horseshoes & nails, European dustfree vacuum packed wood bedding,
stable equipment, etc... Moreover, you
can order personalized embroidered
saddle pads with matching colors,
made-to-measure superior quality boots,
personalized helmet with colors and
accessories you like, assorted everyday
gifts, etc...
+961-3-809103 | +961-9-223758
Zouk Mosbeh, Main Road | 2273 Jounieh - Lebanon
kattouah@equisystem.info | equisystem.info
Facebook: Equisystem – La Sellerie du Liban
35

TAKE ME THERE

36

37

Photo courtesy of Roland Younes

AMIQ

TOURING LEBANON

Take a walk
down by the river
Spring is here, but perhaps it isn’t warm enough for a dip in the
sea quite yet. Instead, discover some of Lebanon’s rivers and go for
a walk on the wild side with Lebanon Traveler
Greater Beirut

Ideal for those who don’t want to venture too far, three rivers are
virtually on the doorstep of Beirut city center. While the mouth of
each river doesn’t leave much to be desired, heading inland a few
kilometers reveals some great springtime surprises.
Beirut River
According to local legend, St George slew the dragon at the
mouth of this river. Today we recommend that you head further
inland to see the river at its best. Nestled in a valley between
the Beirut suburbs of Mansourieh and Hazmieh, the river flows
under a Roman aqueduct, aptly named the Aqueducts of Zenobia.
Restored and maintained by the Ministry of Tourism, there are
ample pathways along the river that take strollers among all
manner of plant life and wild orchards. To reach the area, head
towards Mansourieh and turn right, down to Belle Vue Medical
Center.
Antelias River
Antelias Upper River is amazing after heavy rain. Gigantic water
pools form jets from holes deep underground. The scene is best
viewed at the 100-year-old Casino Fawar, where water springs
emerge from beneath the restaurant. It’s an ideal stop over for
breakfast or lunch as the river gushes by, before heading onwards
and upwards to a prehistoric cave situated to the left side of a
quarry. Ancient skulls gathered from the cave are now on view at
Beirut Museum.
38

Nahr el-Kalb
Just north of Beirut, the peaceful waters of this short river flow
from a spring in Jeita along a 31km course, through a scenic valley
to the Mediterranean Sea. The mouth of the ‘Dog River’ has been
the site of a series of monuments erected by past conquerors and
generals, such as the graceful bridge built by Sultan Selim in 1914.
The best walk is along the inside river bank on the opposite side
to the road. Stroll along the pedestrian only path and discover
wild orchards and traditional Lebanese houses. If you are lucky, you
may even be invited in to share lunch with a family. If not, there are
numerous riverside eateries to choose from.

The North

Nahr Ibrahim
Popular with picnickers, the valley of the Ibrahim River is a wild
and beautiful area famed for both its historical and religious
significance. Mythology locates the river as the scene of the tragic
love story of Venus and Adonis. A Roman aqueduct can be seen
where the valley forks as well as the Roman temples of Yanuh,
Aqoura and Afqa. Upstream, there are a number of riverside cafés
that make for a pleasant stopover.
Al Assi River
Known as the ‘rebel’ or ‘disobedient one’, the Al Assi River flows
from its source in the Bekaa northwards into Syria and onwards
to Turkey. Lebanon’s foremost river is perhaps not the best for
genteel walks. But, all is not lost. Flowing a rocky course, the Assi
is ideal for those seeking white-knuckle thrills. Rafting is the sport
of choice here with (according to the International Scale of River
Rafting) class I to III difficulty at certain parts near Hermil. The
website boats.com offers day long rafting courses for beginners
including lunch or two-day rafting and camping trips.

The South

Litani River
The Litani River, flowing at 140km entirely within Lebanon, is the
longest river in the country. Initially flowing parallel to the Syrian
border, it bends westwards near the Hisbani River at Qasimiyeh.
A good place to walk is by the Latini Dam at Qaraoun, where
there is a 1,350m long artificial lake lined with a few small hotels
and restaurants serving fresh trout. At Nahr Abou Assouad, just 10
km north of Tyre, a great landmark is the Leontes Bridge, with a
segmental arch structure that dates back to the ancient Roman era.

Lebanon’s Rivers
Mythology

In mythology, Nahr-Ibrahim is known as the river of the god
Adonis (the god of fertility). Adonis was said to have been
gravely injured as a result of falling prey to a wild hog and
when his beloved, the goddess Astrate, ran to save his life,
his blood mixed with the waters of the river.

Facts
None of Lebanon’s rivers are navigable. The Al Assi River
is the only river in Lebanon to flow from the south to the
north. The Litani River irrigates one of the largest irrigated
areas in the nation, consisting of 32.64 km²

Migratory birds use Lebanon’s waterways as stopping
points on their journey to Africa and Europe. Numerous
bats can be found in many of the riverside caves and wild
boar and hyenas often go to the water’s edge for a drink.

Antelias
Cave
In 1833, Heidenborg discovered a large cave, located just

north of Casino Fawaz. An excavation in 1893 revealed
large quantities of bones and flints from the Aurignacian and
Neolithic periods. Numerous tools made of bone including
two harpoons, which are now in the Museum of Lebanese
Prehistory, were also found.
39

TOURING LEBANON

Traditional Anjar
Not only is Anjar the sole Umayyad site in Lebanon, the area is also
known for its Armenian cultural influences and rich biodiversity
Located 58km from Beirut and just a short distance from the
Litani River, Anjar, which was a safe zone for Armenian refugees
who fled Turkey and the “Great Calamity” genocide in 1915, is
now a pleasant and quiet destination for a relaxing weekend.

The Umayyad ruins
Commissioned by Umayyad Caliph Al Walid in the early 8th C, the
site prospered as a trading city due to its strategic location at the
crossroads of the north-south and east-west trade routes.
The site’s discovery was purely accidental. To their great surprise,
in the late 1940’s, archeologists hoping to uncover the ancient
city of Chalcis from 1000 BC discovered a walled town with a
Roman layout that dated from the first centuries of Islam. Though
many Islamic sites around the world were well preserved, those
from the Umayyad era seem to have been all but destroyed. Anjar
was thus a pleasant discovery with great historical significance,
especially since the Umayyad reign lasted a mere 50 years. It is
understandable why the area quickly became a UNESCO World
Heritage site in 1984.
The city is 1,300 years old and has evidence of Greek, Roman
and Byzantine architecture, mainly in the columns and capitals of
40

the colonnades lining in the main streets. Walls extending 370m
from north to south and 310m from east to west surround this
114,000m2 city. Umayyad inscriptions can be found throughout
the enclosure. Two main colonnaded streets divide the city into
four sections where around 600 shops once stood.
The main structures at the site are two palaces, a mosque and
a public bath. The public bath is separated into three sections, a
place to change, the bathing area consisting of chambers with cold,
warm and hot water and a relaxation area. Make sure to see the
faded but intact mosaics to the left of the bathing area entrance.
Anjar’s most impressive construction is the great palace, located
in the southwest quadrant of the settlement. In the little palace
located north, you can explore Greek stone carvings. Also to the
north, remains of a mosque are visible. One of the palace exits,
facing the mosque’s entrance, is thought to have been the caliph’s
private entrance. The two other entrances were for the public.

Eco-tourism
Aside from its unique historical significance and cultural aspects,
Anjar is a perfect ecological environment where fauna and flora
are well protected.

The Society for the Protection of Nature in Lebanon (SPNL), as
a national partner for Bird Life International, has been active in
the assessment and management of Important Bird Areas (IBAs)
and Key Biodiversity Areas of Lebanon. Through SPNL’s scientific
assessments, Anjar - Kfar Zabad Wetlands were announced
as an IBA in 2005. The area is a major habitat for the globally
endangered bird species, Syrian Serin. It is also a bottleneck for
African Eurasian Water Birds.
SPNL has been working on the sustainable management of the
wetlands, through the Human Integrated Management Approach
(HIMA) since 2005. Accordingly, management plans for sustaining
biodiversity and empowering livelihoods was developed for the
site. Eco-tourism has been promoted as a means to empower
local communities and highlight the esthetic, biodiversity and
cultural values of this area. Several ecotourism facilities have
developed in the HIMA including a visitor’s center, picnic area,
camp-site and natural hiking trails.
The Village Tour
This takes you into the Old Armenian Village of Anjar itself. An
old map of the first eagle-shaped settlement shows the layout of
the village with its municipality, houses and gardens, water points,
church, shops, public garden and craftsmen.
The Archeological Site
Visitors will experience the history of the Umayyads through the
Old World Heritage Umayyad City (after the village tour, the loop
ends at the archeological site, crossing the souvenir shops street).
The Water Course
This tour includes a long hike from the Anjar and Chamsine Spring
to the wetlands of the Anjar - Kfar Zabad HIMA. Hiking and biking
tours are offered.
Make sure to reserve ahead of time by calling Dalia Jawhary, SPNL
+961 1 344814

Where
to eat
Shams Restaurant

A favorite in the area, the restaurant offers fresh fish in
addition to the traditional mezze and grills. Make sure to
ask for their patented potato balloons, which are a unique
feast for the eyes and taste buds.
+961 8 620567
Furn Koch Anjar
Established in 1950, this small bakery continues to prepare
its food the traditional way. Their specialty - the chanklish
man2ouche! Koch Street (no contact information)

Where
to sleep
Challalt Anjar Hotel

Fair prices, a decent restaurant and live entertainment daily
on summer nights at the only hotel in the area - Challalt
Anjar - the place to be!
+961 8 620753

Getting there
From Zahle head towards the south or Syrian border and
follow the signs to Anjar. To get to the site, take the fork by
the petrol station and the “Welcome to Anjar” sign. Drive
about 2km from the highway to the site. Finally, you will
see a Shams restaurant sign on your right, after which you
should take the first left, and that will lead you to the site
entrance.

Kebbeh is considered one of our most cherished national dishes.
We are all accustomed to eating kebbeh in all its forms vegetarian varieties included for those who can’t eat meat or
abstain from eating it during certain periods of the year. But what
is Kebbeh? Kebbeh is simply seasoned ground meat or mashed
vegetables mixed together with burghul. That’s all!
What most of us probably don’t know is that kebbeh is produced
and cooked differently across the country. From the north to the
south of Lebanon, there is a whole range of regional varieties. Its
diversity is derived from local traditions in a given region, especially
the availability of certain ingredients on hand. Kebbeh is served
raw, boiled, baked, grilled or fried.
In the north of Lebanon, goats herd on high mountains therefore
raw kebbeh is made mostly with goat meat. In Zghorta, they pride
themselves on their kebbeh. Who hasn’t heard of the kebbeh
Zghorteweh? This kebbeh, stuffed with animal fat, garlic and dry
mint, is usually cooked on a barbecue. Alternatively, a mixture of
sautéed onion and minced meat is used as stuffing. Fresh raw
meat, which has been cooled, is also made with tender loving care
by pounding it in a huge mortar with a large pestle. It takes a lot
of strength to pound the meat and most women who do this
exercise develop muscles in their arms.

On the coast in Tripoli, where fish is abundant, kebbeh is made
with ground fish instead of meat, mixed with burghul. White
pepper is added to the mix with the salt. The mixture, which is
almost dough-like, is made into oval balls or spread to cover the
bottom of a round baking tray. It’s stuffing is vegetarian and in
the case of the tray, another layer of kebbeh is used as a cover.
The quality and freshness of the fish is important to ensure good
results.
Kebbeh balls are used in cooking and make up an important
ingredient in local soups and stews. Kebbeh drenched in yogurt
(laban) is a family favorite eaten throughout the country. This
recipe may have been derived from the Bekaa Valley where cow
milk is abundant. A piece of awarma, a meat preserve made of
lamb conserved in fat, is also added to the yogurt in the Chouf
to make the dish heartier. In the high mountains, goat milk is used
instead, giving the stew a pungent, tangier taste. The benefit of
cooking with goat milk is that it doesn’t curdle. Therefore adding
an egg and/or cornstarch to the yogurt is not necessary.
Another way to serve kebbeh balls is in a sauce made with tahini
diluted in citrus juice, made mostly of bitter Seville oranges. This
may be served with chunks of slow-cooked meat, beef or lamb.
In the Kesserwan, kebbeh balls are served in a kishk soup. Kishk is

" Take a
journey to
discover the
richness of one
of our most
important
national dishes,
kebbeh "

Suzanne Doueihey

Georgina Bayeh
43

Kebbeh variations
Kebbet Rass
Kebbeh shells empty or stuffed with sautéed meat (beef,
lamb or goat), onion, and roasted pine nuts with local
spices. Shells are eaten deep-fried as an appetizer or
become a main ingredient of traditional dishes.

yogurt with burghul that has been fermented for a few days then
dried in the sun and finally ground into a fine powder. Awarma is
added too for peasants who need extra strength.
In the South of Lebanon, mostly in Sidon, kebbeh balls are stuffed
with butter mixed with walnuts and hot red pepper paste. This
type of stuffing is also found typically in Syria and the red pepper
paste that is used is also imported from there. We call it “shattah”.
Variations of red pepper paste exist ranging from mild to spicy hot.
Cooks tend to agree on a milder paste. In Nabatieh, raw kebbeh is
pounded on a marble slab called “blata” and mixed with a special
local spice called “kamouneh”. It is made mostly of cumin and a
mixture of fresh and dried herbs. Dried rose petals (Jurri) are also
added to the spice. This type of kebbeh is called “Frakeh”.
It is worthwhile to take a journey to discover the richness of
one of our most important national dishes, kebbeh. You will
find similarities in different regions, but mostly you will enjoy its
diversity whether in the use of ingredients, method of preparation
or, finally, in the way it is cooked. Happy trails!
44

Kebbet Saniyeh
Kebbeh baked in flat round trays in the oven. Two layers of
meat mixed with burghul with stuffing in between. Stuffing
is made of sautéed meat, onion, roasted pine nuts and local
spices.
Kebbet Sajiyeh
Large round stuffed shells grilled on a barbecue.
Raw Kebbeh
Kebbeh made with raw minced meat with burghul served
fresh.
Fish Kebbeh
Kebbeh made with fish.
Vegetarian Kebbeh
Kebbeh shells made with mashed pumpkin, potato, rice or
chickpeas instead of meat.
And recently chicken kebbeh balls have made their way
into the numerous varirties!

Zalghouta
For the happier times in life, to be celebrated with
family and friends, Lebanon revels with the traditional
zalghouta - a unique way to express and share joy!
Also known as the act of ululating, the zalghouta is practiced all
the over the Middle East and in some parts of Africa. An ululation
is a high-pitched tongue trill, a physical skill that involves the throat
and tongue. It is a distinct ability and not many people can hit such
high notes.
Women, who mainly use this loud expression to celebrate a joyful
event, for instance the end of bachelorhood, solely practice the art
of zalghouta. Other uses include welcoming an important guest or
getting a degree.
Now, what makes the Lebanese zalghouta different from the
others is that it is not limited to the act of ululating. Instead,
there are a few verses before the loud cry. These verses usually
compliment the bride and groom, highlighting their beauty, family
and good manners.

How do you learn the zalghouta?
You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t! Zalghouta is improvised and tailored to the specific
occasion it is celebrating. Just like zajal (cf Lebanon Traveler issue
5), it requires wittiness and inventiveness. In the past, weddings
included a contest between the bride and groomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parties, each
showing off their many oratory skills.
46

Zalghouta today
Today, there are very few who still practice the art of zalghouta as
there once was. However, women have recorded and memorized
verses that would fit any occasion and recite them during
weddings. The ululation that follows the verse is of course still
practiced and can be heard whether recorded or live. Ululation
can also be used ironically, for instance when you finally receive
something you have been waiting for. It is the Lebanese equivalent
to the hallelujah.

The Zalghouta that could have
ended it all!
Deir Mimas, a village in the south, was preparing to wed one of its
native sons. The bride came on a horse from a neighboring village
and as tradition dictates, she was welcomed by music and dance
by the whole village.
As she was riding around the village, she passed by several houses
where women welcomed her with a zalghouta. They finally arrived
to the home of Im Touma, who was known to love blondes with
fair skin. She took a look at the bride who was a brunette with
darker skin and ululated:

On the path...
...of the zalghouta
So, although we cannot give you a list of where to go to
hear a zalghouta nor where to go to learn how to ululate,
we can say, you will know one when you hear it! And
weddings will probably be your best bet.

From Baalbeck with love
Lace, embroidery, crossstitching and other forms
of delicate handwork have
been passed down through
the centuries and recognized
by all. However, in Baalbek, a
unique embroidery technique
known as taree remains a
secret within the community

48

Taree is the silver thread embroidery on scarves and muslin
dresses. The fabric that is traditionally black, beige or brown is
stretched over a small embroidery hoop and a 2mm thin flat
thread is passed through the material using a triangular shaped
needle. A stitch is formed by a quick stroke, almost like hitting the
material (this is known as a tarka). It is then closed and jiggling the
thread cuts it. The seamstress repeats the work so that the standalone stitches form a variety of motifs.
It is women that predominantly practice taree and the art is
passed on from generation to generation. As soon a baby girl is
born, her mother begins working on a taree scarf and dress that
she will wear on her wedding day.
Traditionally, the bride wears the black dress first made by her
mother and later wears the white dress. A taree dress and scarf
were an essential part of a girl’s trousseau.
Old taree pieces were made on “voile” like fabric to allow both
needle and thread to pass without tearing. It was usually made
with fabric from camel wool.
As for the designs, there were about 8 to 9 different ones that
are used, mainly in the form of geometric patterns, as it is quite
difficult to create rounded shapes with such a heavy needle and
stiff thread. A delicate and well-executed piece is time consuming
and requires months of work depending on the difficulty.
The taree tradition is not well known in Lebanon, as it is a unique
craft to Baalbek. In fact, very few Lebanese are aware of taree,
unless they are from the area, and just like any traditional craft, it is
slowly becoming a lost art.

Assyla: Reviving a lost tradition
El Hareth Haidar and his partner Najwa Sinno, both natives of
Baalback, created “Assyla” (from the roots) to revive the lost art

of the taree. They went around
the area looking for ladies who
were still practicing the craft and
encouraged them to teach it to
the younger generation. Due to
the uniqueness of the craft, they
were sure to find a market and
sell the work. Many ladies from the area took on the challenge.
In fact, several families today depend on the income they make
from taree. Most of the ladies work from home. The work is then
gathered and assembled into garments at the Assyla workshop.
The dynamic duo did not stop there. They took the craft a step
further, using it on new fabric, integrating colors, as well as new
working techniques so that workers were able to create more
circular shapes.
Today taree is integrated into various clothing types, from scarves
to dresses, jackets or unique bracelets and abbayas. Considering
the time needed to make the garment, the price is not exactly
cheap, but you are sure to find something to fit your budget.
Taree is only available in silver and gold since these are the only
colors of thread. And, just like any craft, you will find taree made of
lesser quality for a cheaper price. Buyers beware!

" Many ladies from the area
took on the challenge. In fact,
several families today depend
on the income they make
from taree "

If you’d like to learn more about the art of taree, Assyla offers live
demonstrations by one of their artisans. Please make sure to call
ahead of time.
Learn more about Najwa Sinno +961 3 331718
Buy Assyla Saifi Village +961 1 970333
49

MADE IN LEBANON

Dehab Gallery
Jewelry is one of Lebanonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost industries with artisans
that are both gifted and skilled. But, as many young jewelry
designers know, there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many outlets to promote their
creativity. The concept behind Dehab gallery says Simone
Kosremelli was to create a permanent space to do so

Cube with diamond
50

An art gallery with a distinct
architectural design, Dehab
is located in Beirut’s trendy
Gemmayzeh district. Simone
Kosremelli, the gallery’s art
director, is a jewelry designer
herself, though she trained as
an architect. Her designs form a
permanent part of the gallery’s
exhibition. “In Lebanon, we
have very fine workmanship
but the production is totally
commercial. I wanted to create
a body of Lebanese designers
with a place where they can
display publicly,” says Kosremelli.
“We have the workmanship,
we have the designers - so
I thought, let’s try to do
something different.”

While group exhibitions
showcase the work of young
designers who are just starting
out, solo exhibitions will feature
more prominent ones. Dina
Kamal, Nayla Arida and Raissa
Traboulsi, Wafa and Sonia Twal,
Georges Doche and Kosremelli
have exhibited at the gallery,
which takes its name from the
Arabic word for gold. Dina
Kamal’s first jewelry collection,
The PNKYRNG Collection, redefined the shape of the signet
ring through a contemporary
and architecturally informed
aesthetic. The two young
designers, Nayla Arida and
Raissa Traboulsi, showcased
their handmade Animalism
Collection, expressing a
multitude of emotions with an
intuitive sense of detail and a
love of colors. Jordanian jewelry

designers, Wafa and Sonia Twal,
incorporated mosaic art into
their design, intended for both
men and women. Georges
Doche, a Lebanese artist,
created jewelry in the same
vein as his paintings, a fusion of
gold and colors.
Kosremelli’s latest collection,
Forget-Me-Not, is a series of
blue agate pendants, each of
which has a space on the back
to put a picture so that the
wearer can carry it close to
their heart. Her collection also
includes her trademark cubic
rings with a hole through each
of the six sides so that they
can be worn any way around.
Some of her pieces are oneof-a-kind, designed around an
individual stone while others,
such as the cube rings, are
limited edition with only five
available in each metal.

Rana Salam,
Tie clip,
created for
"Just for men"
exhibition,
exclusively
made for
Dehab

The response to the gallery
has been positive. People like
the idea of treating jewelry as
art. “Historically it was like this,”
she points out, “if you go into
the tombs of the pharaohs you
would find beautiful jewelry
that are regarded as pieces of
art, and I believe we are going
back to that.” Solo, as well as
group shows with specific
themes are launched every five
or six weeks.

" There are world famous
Lebanese fashion designers,
maybe the same could be
true of jewelry designers, "

INDOORS

Saving the
nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s treasures
Curator and museum specialist, Juliana
Khalaf, takes a trip down memory lane
and talks about the preservation of the
nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artifacts

52

The National Museum of Beirut, better known as ‘the Mathaf ’
(Arabic for Museum) was inaugurated in 1942, its mission being
to house and preserve artifacts found through excavations on
Lebanese soil.
The building, which stands on what was called the demarcation
or green line created between enemy forces during the 1975 civil
war, was turned into barracks and a sniper station. Most objects
in the collection were fortunately safeguarded by concrete cases
until the war ended in 1995.
After extensive renovation and a state-of-the-art refurbishment of
displays, the museum reopened in 2000.

The collection
Nearly all exhibits are labeled in English, Arabic and French,
however it is advisable to purchase a museum guide from the gift
shop (located by the reception) before you enter the museum.
Begin your tour on the second floor where the exhibition of
enthralling objects follows the ancient history of Lebanon from the
Early Stone Age (1 m - 3000 B.C.) leading up to the Islamic Period
(7 - 13th c. A.D.). The collection includes prehistoric hunting tools,
terracotta pots and jars utilized for domestic purposes, bronze
figurines servicing religious ceremonies, gold jewelry recovered
from tombs, coins, ivory sculptures, ceramics and even make-up
boxes.
In the pursuit to uncover the history of the Phoenicians, the
Sarcophagus of Ahiram, King of Byblos (1000 B.C.), (located in
the main exhibition hall) is an important source of information
representing early “Lebanese” art, writing and history - most
notably their transmission of the alphabet to the world and their
strength in trade with the West through the Mediterranean Sea
and the East through the mountains.

" Begin your tour
on the second floor
where the exhibition
of enthralling objects
follows the ancient
history of Lebanon
from the Early Stone
Age leading up to the
Islamic Period "
53

The Hellenistic marble sculptures are evidence of the Greek
conquest (333 B.C.) when Greek became the spoken and written
language in Lebanon. The Roman Empire (64 B.C.) saw the
development of silversmith, glass, textile and ceramic industries
in Tyre, Sidon and Byblos. When Christianity became the state
religion in 392 A.D., the Byzantines built basilicas with floors
covered in rich mosaics of which the museum holds exceptional
pieces.

Good to know

Finally, with the advent of Islam in the 7th century A.D., Arabic
became the language of the administration and a large number
of civil and religious buildings: mosques, madrasas, khans and
hammams were erected in Tyre and Beirut- their existence
immortalized by remains in the museum’s collection.

Gift shop: Open Tuesday through Sunday 10am - 5pm

One should consider dedicating at least two hours to tour the
entire collection and another 15 minutes to visit the gift shop,
where you can find creations by famous local designers made
exclusively for the Museum.

What not to miss
• Every hour, between 9am and 4pm, the museum screens
'Revival,' a short documentary on how the collection
was protected from the destruction of the civil war and
the renovation efforts made on the building (first floor audiovisual room)
• Sarcophagus of Ahiram, King of Byblos (first floor)

Beirut is buzzing, day and night. It’s a city that has embraced several cultures, making sure that
its citizens and visitors are fulfilled at all times. Whether you are in the mood for music, arts or
outdoor activities, the city will surely satisfy. That’s what Beirut Pleasures is all about

Beirut pleasures
Are you in the mood for jazz? How about
hitting the dance floor to salsa or singing along
to the tunes of your favorite French songs?
These regular weekly happenings will set the
mood for a Beirut night. Keep this listing safe
as you will need it time and time again!
TUESDAYS

80’s and 90’s night
Dance to the tunes from your childhood or your parent’s
childhood… Just have a great time!
Clé - Hamra +961 71 200712

All that Soul
Original RNB and Soul music from the 60’s and 70’s
Rococo - Monot +961 70 881771

55

AGENDA
80’s night
The one that launched the trend in Lebanon, BO18’s 80’s night is
the country’s favorite themed night, not to be missed!
BO18 - Katrantina +961 3 800018
JLP live
The JLP five-piece band will entertain you with the best music
from the past 3 decades with songs ranging from Pink Floyd to
Nickel Back.
Dany’s - Hamra +961 740231
Salsa Latino Party
Let your Latino alter ego out and dance the night away to the
greatest salsa rhythms of all time!
Inn-Tuition - Gemmayzeh +961 3 109179
Tango Night
Join in and have a go at it or watch others dance the passionate
tango – the dance of seduction.
Walimat Warde - Hamra +961 1 752320

SATURDAYS
Alecco’s Night
A full show will have you grooving to English, French and Arabic
songs, a Brazilian percussionists, salsa dancers, great singers and VJs.
DRM - Hamra +961 1 752201
Rayan Haber featuring Farah
The oriental band will sing your favorite tunes from past to present.
Walimat Warde - Hamra +961 1 752320
Midnight Dance Party
The name says it all! It’s all about dancing. Just make sure you’re
not with Cinderella because the party will heat up after midnight!
EM Chill - Mar Mikhael +961 1 565313

Salsa Picante
Hit the dance floor and move to the live sounds of Tabasco. To
make sure you know the steps, come early for a free salsa class
with Flako!
DRM - Hamra +961 1 752201

SUNDAYS

RNB Night
Best of the best of RNB to shake your booty and enjoy the start

Mondays are left blank to plan for the rest of the week!

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Amy Smack Daddy Live
A blend of Rock, Alternative and Funk, Amy Smack Daddy is a fivepiece band that revives your favorite tunes with a unique twist.
Zinc - Sodeco +961 3 873333

Take a break for the weekend. We have selected 3 locations throughout Lebanon
where you can go away for a couple of days and return rejuvinated

Fun with family & friends Batroun

Enjoy the live performance by Majd Mousally at Taiga every Friday
and Saturday evening + 961 3 171111
Take a dip in the sea and try out the many water sports available
Walk around the old town and check out the small Roman
Amphitheater
Drive to Deir Saydeit el Nourieh for breathtaking views over the
Mediterranean
Have a drink and mingle with locals and tourists and watch the
waves crash on the shore at Pierre and Friends +961 3 352930
Lounge in the sun at White Beach +961 6 742404
Stay on the coast at San Stephano +961 6 740366
Eat traditional at Batrouniyat +961 6 744510 or manouche at
Furn Mershak +961 6 740050
Fish at Chez Maguy +961 3 439147
Buy lemonade made the old fashioned way and take some home
from Limonade Tony Daou +961 6 741564

Rural escape Deir El Qamar
Visit Marie Baz Wax Museum for some photo opportunities with
Georges Bush Senior or Jumblatt +961 5 511666
Take a stroll through the village for a lesson in 17th and 18th
century provincial architecture.
Participate in the Jabal Marathon taking place on April 14.
Stay at Mir Amine Hotel +961 5 501315 or La Bastide
+961 5 505320
Eat sandwiches and salads at Al Midane +961 5 763768 or mezze
at Rawbi el Amir +961 3 208022
Check out the work of one man at Moussa Castle. Open 7 days a
week, May - October 8am to 8pm, November - April 8am to 6pm.
Visit the silk khan that now houses the Centre Culturel Francais
+961 5 510016
Buy tamriyyeh - Deir el Qamarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s typical pastry

Special reader's offer! Chateau des
Oliviers will offer 2 dinners for the
price of 1 during your stay.
Just show this issue of Lebanon
Traveler. Make sure to reserve ahead
of time and mention the promotion
upon reservation.

Rafic Hariri
International Airport
+961 1 628000
The only international airport
in the country, its website is
extremely well organized and is
updated every 10 minutes with
the latest arrival and departure
times, delays and cancellations.
Certified airport taxis (with
the airport logo on the side)
are available for a fixed rate.
However, you can bargain with
other taxi drivers for a lower
rate. You should be at the
airport 2 hours prior to your
flight.

beirutairport.gov.lb

Banks

Bank cashiers are normally
open between 8am and 2pm
from Monday to Friday, and
until noon on Saturday. Most
banks open longer hours for
transactions that are not cash.

Bus Routes

Inside Beirut
Bus 1
Hamra to KhaIde
Begins on Sadat Str and passes
by Emile Edde Str (better
known as Lion), the Bristol
Hotel, Verdun, Cola, the airport
and Kafaat before reaching it’s
final destination in Khalde.

Bus 5
Ain El Mreisseh to Hay
As-Saloum
Begins in Manara on General
De Gaulle Ave, and continues
south, passing through

Bus 15
Cola to Aley
Begins at Cola and continues
through Bir Hassan, Mar
Mikhael Church and Hazmieh,
before finally ending in Aley.

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Currency

The national currency is the
Lebanese Lira. One US dollar
is equivalent to approximately
LL 1,500. The US dollar is
accepted almost everywhere.
International bankcards are
accepted in most places; look
out for signs. Foreign currency
is easily exchanged. Banks,
ATMs and exchange bureaus
can be found in main cities and
towns.

Driving

It is easy to rent a car if you
have a valid Lebanese or
international driving license
Parking
Public parking lots are available
around the city and either
charge a set fee or by the hour,
at rates that typically range
from LL2,000 to LL5,000.
Another option, is to take
advantage of valet services
available at almost every bar
and restaurant in the city, which
usually cost around LL5,000 or
LL7,000 if you’re parking at a
hotel.
Regulations
You should have a fire
extinguisher in the car, wear
your seatbelt at all times and
always carry your mandatory
government insurance, car
insurance, car registration and
driver’s license with you at all
times when driving.

Electricity

The two-pin rectangular plug
system is used and adapters
are easy to find. Most areas
have, at least, a three hour
power cut per day; more
in areas outside the capital.
Almost all establishments have
generators automatically set to
operate when the power cuts.

Tipping

Gratuities are usually in the
region of 10 - 15%. As a rule,
taxi drivers do not expect
a tip. Tip porters USD 1.00
per piece of luggage and
restaurants 10% of the bill.

Transport

Outside Beirut
Charles Helou
Buses leaving from here will
take you to destinations north
of Beirut. You can also catch a
taxi or service to Damascus
from here. Be prepared to wait
for the bus or service to fill up
before they depart.
Cola
Packed with buses, taxis and
services that will take you to
destinations south of Beirut.
Dora
An intersection for services to
the north, buses stop here too.
You can get to Dora by service
or van from the beginning of
the highway by the port.
Services (taxis that go along
certain routes and take up to
5 people, LL2,000 each), street
taxis (LL10,000 – 12,000), vans
(LL1,000) and private buses
(LL1,000).
Prices are correct at time of
going to press.