The Island of Isabela

Dawny G

Sunday

Oct 7, 2018 at 12:01 AMNov 28, 2018 at 12:00 PM

We sail through the night to Isabela, the largest of the Galapagos islands, shaped like a giant seahorse. Named for the Queen of Spain, this million year old island formed when six volcanoes flowed together.

In an earlier post (To the Galapagos!) I mentioned that these islands are one of the most volcanic places on the planet. To quickly (I promise) review the information: Earth has seven main tectonic plates floating on six-mile-deep hot rock. Below the surface of the earth, the molten rock rises, cools, and sinks, making the plates move. Volcanoes form where plates collide; each successive eruption heightens the volcano. In this area of the Pacific, the volcanos grow into islands. The motion of the plates moves the islands from their 'birth place' a few inches a year, like they're resting on a geological conveyor belt. As the islands move, they change, becoming less explosive, more predictable, and allowing vegetation to grow.

One other special trait of the Galapagos--this hot spot is a meeting point for four ocean currents from drastically different environments in the corners of the Pacific Creatures from each of those distant areas have migrated here, resulting in a unique assortment of life forms that evolved to adapt to their new home.

Isabela and Tagus CoveWe begin our day with a 6:45 AM wake up announcement to urge us on deck for a whale watching opportunity. Morning Whale Watch from the Letty

After breakfast we go to Isabela and take a panga ride around Tagus Cove, exploring the creatures that live on the rocks. Not much green here. Not a very hospitable looking environment

And yet, all these animals have made it home.Brown Pelicans on Tagus Cove

Blue footed boobies on Isabela's rocky shoreGalapagos PenguinsThe penguins on the Galapagos are notable for a few reasons, but most significant is they have come further north than any of their species. The Isabela penguins are small, probably the smallest on earth. They are less than twenty inches tall and weigh about five pounds. There may be smaller penguins, but these are certainly competing for the title. And now, meet the flightless cormorant.The Galapagos Flightless CormorantThere are several other species of cormorants in the world, all coastal birds and fish eaters, but they can fly. The Galapagos cormorant is the largest of the family. Over millions over years, their swimming skills grew and their need to fly diminished. They have evolved to the point that their stunted little wings are about one third the size they would need to be able to fly.

Our guides tell us that at the summit of the higher Isabela volcanoes, there are giant tortoises that weigh as much as 550 pounds--the largest on earth. These animals can go up to five months without water. In the wet season, they hydrate by gathering where rainwater has pooled, giving them sufficient water to get them through the dry season. We don't see any of them on this island. But we will later...