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made my husband have started to yellaw, and 'lWthing seems to Perspiration stains The unde䧛썳 Do you have any reme䧛ies and how can we avoid them in thefu,ture? -Ana rms rem as jor e)qmrts ffin replies: According to the David Co at Land's End, where they make zillions of cotton and cotton/poly shirts, yellow underarm stains from perspiration and deodorant are much more of a problem with cotton fablics than with blends, because cotton is so much more absorbant. The stain is the result of a chemical reaction, and as with all stains, the sooner the troublesome chemicals are removed from the fabric, the less harm they can cause. Letting worn shirts accumulate in a hamper is a mistake; if you're prone to stain problems, rinse out the lmderarms soon as possible. According to Mablen Jones, in Taking Care oj Clothes, (St. Martin's Press, New York, 1982), fresh perspiration is acid, but later alkaline. She suggests neutralizing fresh spots with diluted ammonia, then thoroughly rinsing. Once underarm stains are there, the verdicts on their removability, and the methods recommended, vary considerably. The folks at Land's End weren't optimistic, merely suggesting commercial shirt laundries. Some authorities say heat sets the stains; others recommended high heat. I talked to several of the textile restorers mentioned in last issue's Supplies column (Threads, No. 34, p. 82), and each one said yes, they could remove the stains, but no, the chemicals they used couldn't safely be divulged to the public; there were simply too many ways to create worse problems with them. If the methods given below fail to remove the stains, at least there seems to exist the last resort of professional help. Evelyn Kennedy, one restorer I talked tunIS to, suggests this safe and cautious do-ityourself approach, which I'd try first: Mix 12 cup of baiting soda per gallon of cold water in a plastic container (don't use stainless steel or porcelain, which could interact with the chemicals), and soak the stained shirts for one hour; then spray the stains thoroughly with Shout or Spray & Wash, or some similar lalmdry spot remover, and let that sit undisturbed for 12 hour. Then launder as usual, in hot water. She says that borax or hydrogen perOxide, in the same proportions, also work well as presoaks, 12 oj the aU-cotton shirts I ove the stains. the stains, Guzman, Redwood City, CA but baking soda is the gentlest and safest choice. No matter what you use, always wear rubber gloves. If that method fails, next I'd follow Terry McCormick's advice, from Consumer's Guide to Vintage Clothing, (Dembner Books, New York, 1987): Boil those cottons, just like our grandmothers did on "Blue Monday," everywoman's wash day. Here's her method: Presoal{ overnight in a mix of dry, nonchlorine bleach (like Clorox II or Purex Bleach) and lukewarm water, about The All Fabric to a washtubful (she uses her washing machine). The next morning, place the presoaked clothes in a large pot with about % cup of a pure soap, like Ivory Snow, and enough hot water to completely cover the garments without crowding, but keep the level well below the rim of the pot so it doesn't boil over. Bring the pot to a rolling boil, then lower the heat, but maintain the boil, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or a clean dowel to keep the clothes under water. According to Mary Vail, in Approved Methods jor H 1f2 published by Procter & Gamble in 1924 (she liked borax as a presoak), five minutes of boiling is long enough, unless the garments are especially soiled as well stained. Pour the shirts out into a colander and rinse, being very careful not to scald yourself. McCormick and Vail agree that the first linse water should be hot, or the soap will set, but when the soap is gone, rinse in cold water so the cloth can be handled. Even the most contemporary ome as Invisible zippers Can you still buy those wonde'iful "invisible" zippers, the ones that pull the jabric close enough to completely cover the teeth when they're closed? -Winifred Baim, Huntington, David Coffin replies: I know of at least two catalog sources that carry invisible zippers, as well as the special foot you need to apply them. Clotilde Inc. (1909 S.W. First Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 33315-2100; 305-761-8655) has 9-in. and 22-in. zippers in six colors (both less than $2 each; the foot is only 80¢), and The Perfect Notion (566 Hoyt St., Darien, CT 06820; 203-968-1257) has 14-in. and 22-in. zippers, in eight colors, with similar pIices. FL NY autlIOlities acknowledge that sunlight on damp fabrics has a powerful bleaching effect, but as Evelyn Kennedy warns, all it takes is one errant bird and you've got to start all over again. cup Em Is there a source jor embroidery floss on cones? I go through the little skeins really quickly. broi䧛썳㭨၀ Laundering, -Laura Howell, Lancaster, PA I'm looking jor machine-knitable ya rns embroiderers and knitters should be interested to hear that Robison-Anton 're)..'tile Co. (PO Box 159, 175 Bergen Blvd., Fairview, NJ 07022; 800-932-0250) sells a six-ply mercerized cotton floss that comes in 225 colors on both 2380-yd. (I-lb.) and 500-yd. cones. They're $14.80 and $5.25 respectively, with no minimum order; quantity discounts are available. Karen Morris (see her article on p. 63) regularly uses it on her Passap. She says it's too soft for skirts, but it makes very nice sweaters and blouses. DMC also puts their well-known floss on cones, but only for established businesses, ,vith resale numbers, tlmt can meet the minwnum order requirements. If you quality, contact any DMC distributor (like Craft Gallery, PO Box 145, Swampscott, David Coffin replies: Both 508-744-2334) or DMC directly at Port Kearney, Bldg. 10, South Kearney, NJ 07032; (908) 351-4550. Another embroidery yarn that's MA 01907; available on cones is Appleton two-ply Crewel wool, available in 405 colors. Mary McGregor (Rt. 2, Box 224-B, Parsonsburg, MD 21849; 301-749-0394) sells the yarn in its more typical put-up (1-oz'/195-yd. hanks; $3 each) to several machine knitters, but the English manufacturer, Appleton Brothers, Ltd., will put it on 1f2-kilo cones and make it available through their U.S. distributors, like Mary McGregor, if there's sufficient interest. If not, you could contact Appleton directly at their Thames Works, Chiswick, London, W4 2PE; telephone 0-11-44-81-994-0711. Shade cards are available in the U.S. for $25. Machine knitters should also note that many hand-knitting yarns can be ordered on cones instead of in balls or skeins, as long as you can find a sympathetiC dealer who'll order them for you. One such dealer is Maggie Flynn, at Jacob's Ladder (184 Greenwood Ave., Bethel, CT 06801; 203-743-5319). She regularly supplies Morris and other machine knitters ,vith cotton yarns from Joseph Galler, mohairs from Classic Elite, and alpaca from Plymouth. Threa䧛썳 Maga䧛 ine yarns on cones that come in a wide range oj colors. Any suggestions? -Pam Allen, Hamden, ME