Frozen Brake Rotor

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Does anyone have a suggestion on how to remove a frozen brake rotor. I tried the method using the bolts through the mounting bracket for the calipher, but the bolt with the nut that is supposed to apply pressure against the back of the rotor does not seat squarely on the rotor back. The position of the mounting bracket and the configuration of the rotor only allows the outer edge of the nut pressing against the rotor back.

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Living in rust country I have freed many a frozen rotor from the hub and if I'm reading your posting the way you intended, your rotor is frozen to the hub. First things first, safety glasses aren't always enough, goggles if you have them, full face shield is the best.

Get out the BFH, not a dead blow, a good solid steel 3-lbs heavy hitter and tap the rotor face all the way around the outer edge, if that doesn't break it free; line yourself up for a good swing at the back side and hit it like you want to send it over the center field fence. If that doesn't pop it loose give it a quarter turn and hit it again and if it's really stuck you might have to do this several times.

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Living in rust country I have freed many a frozen rotor from the hub and if I'm reading your posting the way you intended, your rotor is frozen to the hub. First things first, safety glasses aren't always enough, goggles if you have them, full face shield is the best.

Get out the BFH, not a dead blow, a good solid steel 3-lbs heavy hitter and tap the rotor face all the way around the outer edge, if that doesn't break it free; line yourself up for a good swing at the back side and hit it like you want to send it over the center field fence. If that doesn't pop it loose give it a quarter turn and hit it again and if it's really stuck you might have to do this several times.

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Thanks Digger, I bought a 3 pound sledge and it took about 30 to 40 hits on each rotor. I used the cross-pein face on the hammer and struck the rotor between the studs. The rotors broke free and now I am happy.

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Rust isn’t the only reason rotors freeze to the hub and living south of the rust belt won’t save you from the toughest rotor I ever helped to remove.

As part of a ball joint replacement job we discovered that the rotor had welded itself to the hub and by the owners story it was deer related. The owner lives in lake country, drives 20 miles to work, works nights and constantly slows from highway speed for the foggy low spots. About a year before needing a ball joint he had crested a hill to find a herd of deer had stopped to watch his oncoming headlights, being too close to stop he stood on the brakes and took the shoulder, the soft shoulder sucked him into a wet ditch where he stayed until he was towed.

Heating and beating with the opposing back pressure of a porta power didn’t break it free, lowering the car and teeing up with the 8lbs sledge didn’t break it free but it did break the rotor giving us room to chisel it free and save the hub. No rust involved.

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Rust isn’t the only reason rotors freeze to the hub and living south of the rust belt won’t save you from the toughest rotor I ever helped to remove.

As Twin Cam says "What's this rust stuff you guys speak of? :lol:" We sure are glad we don't live where you guys live. I had enough with rust when cars were made of real steel and I lived in Jersey. The TCs are ever so vulnerable to rust. I have never seen fuel lines and brake lines rust through as easily as on the TCs.

As part of a ball joint replacement job we discovered that the rotor had welded itself to the hub and by the owners story it was deer related. The owner lives in lake country, drives 20 miles to work, works nights and constantly slows from highway speed for the foggy low spots. About a year before needing a ball joint he had crested a hill to find a herd of deer had stopped to watch his oncoming headlights, being too close to stop he stood on the brakes and took the shoulder, the soft shoulder sucked him into a wet ditch where he stayed until he was towed.

Heating and beating with the opposing back pressure of a porta power didn’t break it free, lowering the car and teeing up with the 8lbs sledge didn’t break it free but it did break the rotor giving us room to chisel it free and save the hub. No rust involved. Such as the good looking TC pictured.