Number 2. there is the million dollar question which I haven’t been able to get an answer for yet.

At this stage Godox have confirmed the AD600 strobes will be provided with a firmware update to add the Sony radio slave mode, though they haven not confirmed this for any of the other flashes or speedlights yet.

And I don’t have the TT685S yet either, though there is no mention of any Canon or Nikon radio slave modes currently implemented in that flash either.

So I’m not too sure whats going to happen, though I don’t think it makes sense for the lights not to all be cross platform if some are.

5 groups was only added to a number of the flashes previously as a firmware update, so I think the whole situation with addition of Sony may be a little fluid at the moment as well. At this stage I’m not sure though.

I emailed Adorama Support about the brand new “Flashpoint Zoom TTL R2 Flash With Integrated R2 Radio Transceiver” which I’ve read is the Flashpoint version of the Godox TT685S:

“I’m inquiring if the SKU: FPLFSMZSO is the equivalent Flashpoint unit. There is little description on the Adorama site and no pictures of the unit so I can’t tell. I need a flash(es) for my Sony A7II by next week, so if you can confirm/verify that this FP unit is the same oem/branded version as the Godox TT685S, I want to purchase it.”

Their response:
“I was able to check and confirmed that it is not the same item as the Godox TT685S. However; I have confirmed that they will be compatible.”

Ben, probably not the same SKU or product as the TT68s as it uses AA batteries and the Flashpoint Zoom TTL R2 uses the lithium lion which would seem more comparable to the 860IIs whenever it is released. Adorama is the only manufacture that I could find offering the lithium lion version for Sony!

They must have just added the description and specs, which they copy/pasted from the Canon version — it was blank yesterday. The only thing worse than no details, are incorrect details. I spoke to two different sales guys yesterday, neither of whom knew anything about the flash since it was brand new. Despite what they said via support, I’m betting it actually IS the same flash as the Godox TT685-S.

Does anyone know if the xt16 (Godox brand) will work with my Flashpoint AD360 version 1? I obliviously will need to purchase the commander as well. I am a sony shooter would love to use HSS with my AD360 (Flashpoint version) but not sure if this will work.

Manuel, yes it should, Godox is the original manufacture but other companies have rebranded under different naming schemes. I was at a workshop and they had an Interfit strobe 360 there and I use my remote from the Cheetah 360 to trigger it.

I can confirm the xtr16 triggered by x1t-s works perfectly on the flashpoint streaklight. See my unboxing at https://youtu.be/uvSOYrRSVXI. I’ve tested but still need to pull together a proper video to cover the specifics. HSS works but TTL is not available on the old streaklight. Miming power in HSS is 1/8th.

Finally received my on personal TT685 flash today. I ordered from amazon prime. Paid a little extra but it was worth it. I also ordered 2 of the XTR16 to convert my old 360 to the new X system. Everything worked out of the box. I now can use the commander /TTL mode of the 685 to wirelessly control my 360 flash. Waiting to receive the X1 transmitter for Sony!!

This is good news. I am currently using Yongnuo flashes. Manual flash is fine, but now I want to have HSS and TTL if i need it for my A7ii and A77ii. So I’ll be getting an XT1 and 685 failry soon I think, and looking at AD360 too.

Godox now seem to have very good system options from speedlights to battery studio quality units.
Versatility!!!!

could anyone who has these already and triggers them off camera do me a favor and try if you can adjust the power levels of the flash when you use an all manual lens that doesn’t transfer any data to the camera? Or if it’s possible to change the power output of the flashes with an extra x1t-s that’s not connected to the camera like you can with the YN-560TX? Thanks!

I do not have the X1Ts yet but this flash powers my Cheetahlight 600x and my 360 and 180’s perfectly The 685 on camera is set in the master mode,. You can only set three groups for now but I never use more than that anyhow. I believe you can set 5 groups with the XT1s..

Anyone has any experience with the Godox V860II (for Nikon)? It’s available but some say that it has some misfire issues. It would be great if someone with hands-on experience can give us his/hers impressions.

Is there any talk of a micro four thirds compatible version in the pipeline? I already use the V850’s which are great and am currently contemplating a couple of AD360 I’s which I can run manually, but it would be nice to have the auto facility sometimes.

I just received my X1T-S today, but can’t fully test it because the XTR-16s for my V850 is still in transfer. However, I wanted to test if the transmitter even works and I’m afraid that the AF lamp does not work (yes, I switched it on). I also tried changing the in-camera setting for AF assist light, but it has no effect (apart from fireing the camera builtin AF lamp. The transmitter AF lamp should work even if I currently have no receiver, right?

What’s so bad about a plastic foot on a transmitter? Have you or anyone you know had one break before on a transmitter? Canon’s old transmitters used to use plastic feet, and it’s likely the only reason they switched to metal is because of people’s perceptions of plastic rather than actual advantages. Even their old flashes used plastic feet, but most breakage issues were from when people started using their flashes off camera.

I’ve seen plenty of the plastic flash foot break, can’t say the same for transmitters. Back in the day is was a frequent occurrence for the Vivitar 283/285 flash foot to crack or break. There were repair places that would replace them for you with a metal one.

This has ruined my day! Is there no solution for AF assist when using off camera flash? And just out of curiosity, what about the Sony speedlights… Does the AF assist still not work when mounted on a Sony mirrorless body?

Question for group please?
I have Nikon D600 / 700 and 2 x V850s plus 2 x TT685N currently using x1 n system.
Could I just buy a x1 S transmitter to trigger the V850s or would I also have to buy S version plug ins for each V850?
Any chance I could get the tt685Ns to work with Sony too?
Thanks

For the V850s you would just need XTR-16s receivers. They are remote manual only so they are universal for Canon / Nikon / Sony etc. And the X1-S transmitter will provide remote manual power levels and HSS with those.

With the TT685Ns, you could do the same as the V850 for the moment and just use XTR-16s receivers to provide remote manual power control (I’m not sure if the TT685N can be set to HSS in the flash itself).

Later Godox do intend to provide firmware which will add the Sony radio receiver mode to the Canon and Nikon version TT685 and V860II. Though I’m not sure when that will be. Once that is available though you would have full TTL and HSS etc using the X1-S transmitter, without any separate receiver needed.

@Robin yes I have an A6000 and it will give you TTL and HSS. It will operate in the master mode and provided that you change out the old USB triggers on your 360 to the new XTR16, yes it will allow you to adjust the power settings on the older units with the TT685 in your camera hot shoe….

I don’t have any of these yet but am wanting to switch over. So if I get some of these and a 360 or 2, which controller do I need to make them all work together? But wait- is there a Sony version for the transmitter yet? Or are you saying if I put one of these in my hot shoe, I can use this speedlight to control other speedlights and some 360s?

Yes you can use the TT685S as a master on camera to control more TT685S and AD360II-S (or AD360II-C / AD360II-N).

You can also use the XT-S transmitter unit as Duc is showing.

If you want TTL with the remote 360 flashes then you need the MK II models of the AD360. The original model as Duc is showing only provided remote manual and HSS (and required the clip on XTR-16 radio receiver). Where the AD360II models have a full TTL radio receiver built inside the flash.

I made a follow-up video that answers some questions from this thread related streaklight, a6000, af lamp, etc. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/q4-lnz66DXY . Let me know if there are other questions I can help with. I’m going to order the speedlights and hope to do more testing of other features of the X system.

I don’t have the X1-S transmitter yet, and I didn’t realise they have added a line under the selected group letter.

Have you tried holding the Channel button for 5 seconds so that the groups stop scrolling? I’m curious if there will be a line under the other letters other than the center group.

These are the function of the static page mode –

To engage the Page Mode interface hold the Channel button for 5 seconds, or until the groups show again on the screen (after the custom functions disappear).

A flashing Group letter now indicates the current group selected.

– To scroll down groups you press the Group button.
– To scroll up groups you double click the Group button.
– Then turn the dial to adjust the Group.
– Press the channel button to lock in the setting.

I tried your suggestion to get to the static page and it works! Great tip! I like the way this works much better. Previously I found myself scrolling past the group I wanted or scroll the wrong direction. This is far more intuitive. Thanks!

These little flashes work great. I bought two TT685s, two AD600B, plus just received the X1Ts. All play well together except the AD600 which does not work on TTL. I can trigger the AD600 manually, but even though the screen says it is in TTL mode, it isn’t. Anyone know if new firmware for the AD600 is coming? Am I doing something wrong?

Has anyone run into inconsistency in exposure using TTL? I need to do some more testing but I am seeing subtle to very obvious issues with overexposure. I’ve tested on and off camera. I’ve also used a Nissin flash as a check and the Nissin was 100% consistent.

Yes I have experienced the same issues. I notice that If i bounce the flash and try to use HSS at the same time the image is way blown out at above ISO 400 100-400 its noticeable but above 400 its; blown out.
Another issue I noticed is when the on camera flash acting as a Master and triggering the slave the flash must be pointing at the subject. If you try to point the flash like you are about to bounce the on camera flash, even though you are not using it the Slave flashes get a bad signal and the image again is blown out and extremely over exposed. If you use the XT1 and trigger off camera flashes there is no issue. This to me is a huge issue that these flashes have. I have confirmed this with another person that the v860 II have the same issue. If you use speeds below the sync speed of your camera you will not have a huge issue.

Ben, this issue is definitely different. I used canon in the past and I also generally run at -2/3 FEC too for more subtle natural look. The TT685s that I have is totally inconsistent. I just posted a video demonstrating this with sample images and histograms. https://youtu.be/qIWNoocXfl4

I assume these were shot in full manual mode? Also, what is your metering set to on the Sony? In the first setting, the background sunny hot spots could definitely affect the metering with subtle camera movements. Plus the different tests have different framings. The test would be better on a tripod to eliminate those variables.

The second setting (railing edge) was definitely much worse, but it almost looks like a recycle issue there — like the flash wasn’t fully recycled yet between shots.

I’m not saying there’s not a problem… there’s just too many variables to form a good opinion.

Ben, thanks for your question and ideas. I’m definitely not the most technical. I should have mentioned that I shot in full manual for the camera. The settings are probably not very legible in the Lightroom screenshots. I’ll go back to add a note in the video. Thanks for pointing that out.

You’re right, my subtle movements (though rested on the log) could certainly contribute to the issue but variable existed for th nissin as well. I had tested shots indoor as well in much more controlled environment–tripod and consistent ambient lighting and it was less noticeable. But I chose not to include this because it doesn’t represent my real world use of TTL. In a way, that would have unfairly given the flash too much credit and created a false sense of the reliability of the TTL’s effectiveness.

You’re right on the framing though, I could have done that better.

Recycling is a good thought though I normally equate that to underexposure, which was less an issue. All in all, I must have shot 300 shots between the Godox and the Nissin in several setups (backdrops, cameras and lenses) and the nissin didn’t seem to have any issues while the Godox was persistent in its inconsistency. I’d be confident shooting an event with the nissin but as it stands would not dare use the Godox in a run and gun situation which is generally the only time I would need TTL. I had a lot of experience with Canon flashes as well and never experienced this.

Oh and I’ll add that I’m crossing my fingers that either it’s user error or I have a bad unit (or fixable via firmware). The idea that Godox has solved this void for Sony shooters is very exciting. The x1ts is itself amazing. AD360 rocks. And for $119 the TT685s offers great value with the addition of HSS and as a master. I’m still using my canon flashes that are 4-5 times the price that can’t access HSS or serve as a master.

I’ve just bought one of these together with the X1-s. I’ve very happy so far but have noticed a few Sony specific problems…

(1) As an on camera TTL flash, it appears to underexpose more than I’d like compared to my HVL60M. I’d say between 1/2 and 1 stop when setting the exposure comp to ambient only (in sub menu) / 0 EV. With these settings, dialing in some Flash Expo Comp sorts things out but my 60M looks fine without any FEC.

(2) In sony compatible TTL optical wireless mode, the Godox works fine with my 60M (good fires Sony, Sony fires Godox) but DOESN’T work properly with my smaller HVL32M flash – the godox fires but not whilst the shutter is open (and thus does NOT appear in a shot of the flash firing). The 32M and 60M bother work fine with each other (32M fires the 60M and vice versa).

Neither are deal breakers but do suggest the Sony compatibility has a few problems (on an A7II camera – I need to try it on my a6000 as well but haven’t had a chance yet). I bought the godox to use the X1S so it won’t stop me using the flash but still, its niggles like these that are the downfall of using off brand flashguns… on the other hand the good plus trigger was a 1/3 the price of the 60M on its own so value for money still wins hands down for such a capable flashgun…

If so that is normal, because the flash is only designed to light the area evenly which would be seen in the image if the flash was mounted on camera, and set to the same zoom setting as the lense focal length used. So the same flashes pictured above provide these results when mounted on camera, and set to the corresponding zoom setting.

Hello!
I would like to report a communication trouble between my X1Ts transmitter (Ver: 14) and my Flash TT685s (Ver: 1.8).

When the Flash TT685s is installed directly in MI hotshoe of my Sony A6000 (ILCE-6000L – Ver: 3.20) with 50mm Sony Lens (SEL-50F18 – Ver: 02), it correctly identifies the lens size and zoom, and shows 50mm (when in Automatic Zoom ) and the TTL also works correctly – it’s fine and ok!

But, when the X1Ts install directly in MI hotshoe and left Flash TT685s “off camera”, the transmitter rarely sends the size and zoom configuration of the lens correctly, keeping almost always in 24mm (on the Flash display) or, when sending the information, sends 35mm, leaving the TTL exposure incorrect… The same thing happens with other lens: the SELP-18200; it appears that the unit X1Ts thinks that the camera is “full frame” and calculates the wrong size and the zoom… the proportion is almost the same: tested with the lens effectively in 72mm, the X1Ts transmits and updated the Flash to 50mm, while to test the lens in 50mm, the flash is updated to 35mm.

I already reset the firmware on both units, but everything remains the same.

Flavio,
I don’t believe the X1Ts is supposed to send zoom setting to off camera flashes since it doesn’t know where the flash is located and therefore doesn’t know how much of the frame it will fill. That’s something you’ll want to set manually depending on where the flash is located and how broad/narrow you want the light to spread.

Hello, Craig, thanks for the support. I understand your guidance about the zoom flash also depends of the distance of the flash to the subject and how broad/narrow wee need the light to spread. I know this can be done directly in flash, especially in the Manual Mode, as well as the TTL. It happens that in some situations I do prefer to use the “Full TTL”, including the “automatic zoom” flash, which in turn must follow the lens information, cause I cannot go to the flash to change the Zoom. The Godox X devices have this feature (you can choose the Manual Zoom or Automatic Zoom) and I would like to use it, but I cannot do properly, that is precisely what I’m asking. When I use another trigger equipment (eg: Pixel King) zoom is updated correctly… Sorry again about my English.

I’d say most people will not have tried this, because (as Craig mentions) auto zoom is not used often with off camera flashes. One exception would be if mounting the flash just above or beside the camera on a camera mounted flash bracket.

Craig – As Flavio mentions, you can actually set Auto or Remote Manual zoom via the X1T-S transmitter (Custom Function – 02). Though its limited to a global zoom setting for all slave flashes, there’s no individual control at this stage.

Hello!
I I’ve just bought one of these with the X1s and apparently the flash fires before the shutter does its job, it seems to be communicating well and, the settings when using the flash as well as the transmitter are correct. It just doesn’t seem to fire at the same time. I’ve tried the flash on the hot shoe as well as the transmitter. Both the flash and the x1s are firing when the test button is pressed.

I did turn the silent shutter off and put the flash to “fill” and still can see the flash firing but just not at the same time, i have tried with the flash on and off the camera. I have also checked and the hot shoe pins and all seem to be fine as well as the flash and trigger. Thanks for the quick response.

Hello, friend! In the “Setting Custom Functions” you can adjust the “Synchronization delay setting (C.Fn-00), and you can adjust it to “00” to “OFF” or set it “1-100” to synchronize the flash to the shutter. Generally in the series of cameras A6000, it is not necessary to change Sync (leave it in “00”), but I have heard some people saying about the cameras of a7r series is necessary to adjust that synchronization to “42” (42 is probably 42,000 of a sec).
Check the manual, but you adjust this settings with:
1. Press the Button for 2 seconds or longer until is displayed.
2. Turn the Select Dial to choose the Custom Function No.00
3. Press the Button until the custom function No. blinks.
4. Turn the Select Dial to set the number “42”.
5. Pressing button will confirm the settings.
6. Press button to exit the C.Fn settings.
Hope I helped you!
Sorry about my English…

Ops, sorry…
Folow these settings:
1. Press the Button for 2 seconds or longer until is displayed.
2. Turn the Select Dial to choose the Custom Function No.00
3. Press the Button until the custom function No. blinks.
4. Turn the Select Dial to set the number “42”.
5. Pressing button will confirm the settings.
6. Press button to exit the C.Fn settings.

Just received a set of these with the X1 transmitter and they look great but having issues with power – The low battery indicator turns on almost straight away with fresh batteries (alkaline). Tried several sets of batteries and measured voltages between 1.7V and 1.3V with a multimeter but the low battery coming on within 5 flashes (1/128) – which is not right.
Will try on some rechargeable NiMH but has anyone else seen this?
Note: Upgraded to latest firmware and same issue.

Issues resolved when using rechargeable NiMH batteries — so much better! Believe it is related to high current draw from the TT685 and voltage sag with alkaline batteries, even brand-new one of decent quality – never an issue with Canon :P.