Maybe someone can help?I've got a buddie of mine's model 600 .22 cooey with tube fed mag.The fireing pin doesn't seem to be working so I want to take the bolt apart and have a look.I cant figure out how to get it apart though.Any help would be great folks.thanx

For the first time ever in thousands of rounds, I got an ignition failure. After ejecting the round, I noticed that the firing pin had barely indented the rim.
I put this exact same round through a target grade .22 and the round fired.
I had also noticed that when cycling the bolt, rounds would not feed high enough to exactly line up with the bore; I'd been lifting the rounds up with my finger tips in order to chamber them. Thought maybe the rifle was worn out.

So tonight I checked out the action and might have found a headspace issue.

First problem was that the small screw that connects the barreled action to the stock was loose by almost half a turn. Next, I noticed the back end of the feed mechanism was not fully engaged into the square slot in the breech bolt bottom. Also noticed that the keeper bolt that keeps the tubular mag close to the barrel, and therefore the sliding/tilting feed mechanism closely engaged to the breech bolt, was loose rather than snug.

Suggest you separate the action from the stock, then check to see how much slack there is in the keeper bolt that threads into the U-shaped keeper welded to the underside of the barrel. This is the exact same bolt that must be loosened in order to separate the sliding/tilting feed machanism from the breech bolt. Snug this keeper bolt up and the feed mechanism should now position each round high enough against the bolt head to allow for straight ahead insertion of the round, and fuller firing pin contact.

I've not shot my 600 since these adjustments, and so may be barking up the wrong tree. Matathonman, please let us know how it goes. ymmv.

p.s. Oh yeah, to answer your question, I've no idea how to take the firing pin out of the bolt! If you can feel the pin protrude when the bolt is in the fired position (both halves in full contact), then your pin is probably fine.

I have the older Model 60 Cooey 22 (my first gun) and had the same problem with an erratic firing pin and misfires. I figured I had to replace the firing pin spring or clean out 40 years of accumulated grunge from around the firing pin but I could not get the pin that holds the two pieces of the bolt together to drive out in either direction. Gave up on that activity after breaking off the safety lug which I had to weld back on. I flushed the spring and firing pin well with WD40 and that eliminated a lot of the misfires. The trigger was still awful (stiff and about 3 feet of creep) so I eventually stuck the gun back in the safe and bought a CZ 17 HMR. Now the gophers are in trouble again.

I took the barrel off and noticed that the sliding arm that that pushes the empty case out was rubbing on the bottom of the stock,so I dremelled it out some and it now moves freely.Everything else is tight and seems to be working just fine,except for the bolt.I noticed when the bolt is closed there is a slight bit of play back and forth,not easy to notice until I push forward on the bolt handle very hard and then it springs back.This seems to be the distance it needs for the firing pin to fully engage the rim of the cartridge.Any ideas

Just checked mine and there is no play whatsoever between the bolt and the breech opening (chamber). When the bolt handle is turned down, the square end of the bolt handle engages fully with the notch in the action's right hand side, which locks the bolt and keeps it forced up tight against the chamber = no play.

Do you notice any wear in the bolt handle's square end, or in the notch in the action's right hand side?

If you feel attached to this rifle, mebbe it's time to have a gunsmith take a look at it.

Had the same problem with mine after many thousands of rounds. I took out the bolt and checked inside the receiver with my finger. Lo and behold, not only was the inside crudded up to hell, but somehow there was a small rough spot in there. After cleaning out and smoothing the bump it shoots good as new again. These rifles have to have a free slide on the back of the bolt, if anything slows it down it won't fire reliably. Try cleaning the receiver thoroughly and see what happens.

I had the opposite problem.I bought a near new condition 600 for $75 and when I went out to shoot it I was getting pierced rims sending burnt powder back in my face!Now I know why the guy sold it. Turns out the firing pin was too long so a couple strokes with a jeweler's file cured that.Never had a problem since.Harold *I have my Grandfather's model 60 as well

The firing pin in mine has a small piece chipped out of it. Have to pull the trigger, will not fire if you squeeze. Asked around and was told the entire bolt is a throw away affair. Figured it was worth more then the rifle so never persued it further.

I took my Cooey in to the old gun shop in Inglewood Calgary, and they tested a few used pins and sold me a couple for $20, yet now both of them are worn, and I get a misfire every other shot. Drives me nuts, but atleast I don't have to pry out the old shells, as this pin has a working extractor.

i know this post is old....real old. but this problem has just struck me, my firing pin in my cooey is shot (pardon the pun). however over here in Australia its not as simple as it is in the states, getting a new gun is a long, and annoying process, not to mention a cooey here is worth about $300 compared to your $50...so to me its not an option to throw it away, i have found on the web site http://www.gunpartscorp.com (numrich gun parts) a firing pin, i wonder if anyone here ever did get around to replacing one in there cooey? also they have blot assembly, i was thinking of getting one of them, but dont know what it includes, i cant ring them cause that would cost me a hell of alot, and they dont accept e-mails.

so could anyone tell me if they replaced a firing pin in a cooey? or what a blot assembly includes?

Yes it is possible it's not very easy and if you're from Australia and your ordering parts you might as well order a new extractor as well. You have to remove the extractor and that reveals a pin that you can punch out and then pull the top of the bolt body off.

The firing pin in mine has a small piece chipped out of it. Have to pull the trigger, will not fire if you squeeze. Asked around and was told the entire bolt is a throw away affair. Figured it was worth more then the rifle so never persued it further.

I got bored and took the bolt apart and replaced the pin a couple of years ago. You just pry the bolt open at the joint and tap the retaining pin out like Cat had said. Not a big job and I made the firing pin out of some easy sourced stock.