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We cleared the code just for kicks to see if it would appear again. It did immediately. From what I've read from other posts (which I don't remember right now), the Secondary Air Pump is merely an emissions part that functions for only 90 seconds at startup.

"The turbocharged and intercooled WRX engine nudges from 227 to 230 horsepower, and torque climbs dramatically from 217 lb-ft to 235 lb-ft. This was accomplished by increased displacement, increased compression ratio, redesigned combustion chambers, redesigned intake manifold and deleted pre-catalyst (replaced in function by a secondary air pump). The increase in compression ratio and the combustion-chamber redesign also contribute to improved emissions, with the turbo engine meeting Low Emissions Vehicle II (LEV II) regulations." See SOURCE.

I've also read that it is not a critical component and has been removed with block plates installed without any severe repercussions (aside from codes reappearing). Which is somewhat a relief, in that the part is $600+ (If this is the secondary air pump, there is a main air pump, I don't know which one this is, See price HERE). Even then, I want to get some peace of mind and get to the bottom of this, rather than discount it as trivial.

Picture's not that great, but here is the location of secondary air pump (F127), and relay (F129):

That being said, what's your experience/theories on this if any. Some things that have been going through my mind:

While I haven't had any late experience with my battery running dead, I'm assuming that even though the code says the pump is stuck ON all the time, it shuts off when I take the key out of ignition.

If it is stuck on, could it be the relay? I've heard check the fuses, which couldn't hurt, but if the fuse went out, the air pump would not be stuck on?

One post says, "Either something is blocking the air flow, the hose is disconnected, or it is unplugged." SOURCE

Anything I have missed before taking it into the shop? (My theory is go through the cheapest means to fix this until it's beyond my tools and knowledge.)

If I do have to take the air pump out, doesn't seem that difficult, it may be similar to STI, see HERE.

I cant see it being a blown fuse since that would eliminate the power going to the relay. It could very well be a relay that is stuck closed. Is there a fuse that controls the air pump? If so, you could alway pull the fuse, clear the code and see if the CEL comes back. As far as the block off plates go, I noticed that your in Cali, is this code something that a tuner can turn off?

I'm with you on the blown fuse. Couldn't hurt to check it anyway, if there is a fuse to it. I don't know if there is.

The brown clouds (which aren't as brown nowadays) in LA might indicate that the block-off plates are not kosher in California. But i wasn't planning to go that way...I want to keep it the way it was designed...

12 & 13 are both on the driver side except 13 is under the intake manifold and harder to change.
pull the rubber hose out and stick your finger inside the valve hole to check for water. if theres water in there then theres your failed valve.

you can change it or just get cobb access tuner race to disable the codes. its only there for emissions. it wont affect drivability. With the cel on, you're probably on limp mode. Also stick a rag inside the hole to absorb the water out if you decide to just delete the cel.

these valves mostly likely failed because water gets inside the valve, causing it to rust and get stuck.
One of the valve sits under the intake manifold ,and its right under the hood vent. When it rains or when you wash your car, the water goes down the hood vent. I think this is how the water gets in through condensation.Just speculating.

see those holes on the 2 valves after you remove the black y-hose coming from the air pump?
Test for water by sticking your finger or a rag deep inside the hole.

You're right! Service person at the dealer said I may be covered. Do you think I should remove my K&N filter element (it's the one that fits in place of the plain one, not CAI) and Paranoid Fab. Grounding wires before I take it in?

You're right! Service person at the dealer said I may be covered. Do you think I should remove my K&N filter element (it's the one that fits in place of the plain one, not CAI) and Paranoid Fab. Grounding wires before I take it in?

i took my car to the dealership and they said it wasn't cover. My car has 64k miles and its bone stock. I need to find a way to fix this without dishing out $1300 that the dealer wants so i can sell my car.

The Federal Emissions Extended Defect warranty basically only covers the ECM and catalytic converter components. Other emissions components including sensors were covered under the vehicle's New Car Basic Limited Warranty.

Straight wrong. Even the turbo is covered under the warranty for up to 80k (might be 70k, don't remember. I don't have access to my book right now, look in your warranty book and find the list of covered components. There are some covered to 50k, then some to 80k or something like that.

yep, time to get your hands dirty.
The only pita part in this is having to remove the intake manifold to get to one of the valves.Other than that, its a really easy swap job.

even if the dealer covers it under warranty, it will break down again. Mine did. When it does, your warranty may run out and you're smack with a $1300 bill to replace it. Best thing to do is to disabled the code or start learning how to remove the intake manifold yourself, and do your own labor.

It may not be a bad thing to remove the manifold. Atleast you can clean out the carbon that has accumulated inside and give it a nice fresh coat of paint.

You're right! Service person at the dealer said I may be covered. Do you think I should remove my K&N filter element (it's the one that fits in place of the plain one, not CAI) and Paranoid Fab. Grounding wires before I take it in?

I have a 2007 WRX which I bought used with 30k (now ~34k) that began throwing the CEL with code P2444 3 weeks ago. Even thought it was not covered under the extended warranty I bought, I dutifully took it into the local dealership for evaluation. Similar to others' stories, they wanted over $1600 to replace the air pump and both valves. The service advisor claimed there was no way to more specifically diagnose the fault, and all 3 components needed to be replaced.

I called Subaru America, who were *very* interested in this situation. I had a call from the dealership's Service Manager the same day, asking if I would give them another chance to look at the car. In the end, they discovered the pump was fine, and that both valves were filled with water. They replaced both valves for $250 with a notation on the invoice "goodwill warranty."

My guess is that Subaru know they have a problem, and are willing to address the issue if you complain enough.

Filled with water? I've got 105k on my 06 now and haven't had a single problem with the emissions system yet. How do those valves fill with water? Don't they have air rushing through them which would clear them? Do you wash your engine often?

Okay I had the same issue last night. Except, in addition to the pump being stuck on, the plastic tube on my was melted. I have no clue what would cause it to heat up like that since nothing in its environment would cause it except for the unit itself. Any suggestions? Here's a picture of where it was melted.

Filled with water? I've got 105k on my 06 now and haven't had a single problem with the emissions system yet. How do those valves fill with water? Don't they have air rushing through them which would clear them? Do you wash your engine often?

The technician thinks it's very climate-dependent: he sees this when the real humdity sets in here in NC. Searching some other sites yields similar findings of moisture accumulating in the valves. I suspect SoCal is a far friendlier climate. If it happens again I'll probably just pull all the plumbing and have the CEL cancelled.

06 wrx here and i had the same problem last year. The pump, and both valves all had to be replaced. I got the P2444 code, and eventually the "valve stuck open" code which i can't remember. Luckily, it was replaced under warranty for me.

The next time it will fail, and i'm sure it will, i'll just get the block-off plates and have those codes supressed by my tuner... i doubt i'll be so luckly for another free replacement.

If you can't get it covered and want to save money, i sugges the block-off plates too. Also if you're worried about emissions, its true, that whole system is just for cold-start emissions so testing shouldn't be a problem.