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The Peripatetic Gourmet: NYC

Sushi nuovo

Topping this season's best-dressed list in New York, raw fish gets spruced up Italian-style—as crudo, served simply but exquisitely with oils, gelées, and a sexy new name to boot. "Crudo is basically a hybrid between ceviche and sashimi," explains Shea Gallante, the chef at newcomer Cru, whose crudi selection jumped from 6 to 14 within a month because of demand. "Everyone loves raw fish, but outside of a Japanese restaurant it's pretty taboo. This finally takes us beyond tuna tartare."

ESCA
Dinner, $100
402 W. 43rd St. 212-564-7272THE CHEF David Pasternack, the star at this Mario Batali-backed southern Italian spot, catches some of the fish himself.THE SPECIALTY The first (and perhaps the best) crudo in town: snapper with extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and ground almonds, and abalone topped with diced green apples.THE VIBE Business and pleasure, including a lively pretheater crowd.

CRU
Dinner, $110
24 Fifth Ave. 212-529-1700THE CHEF Shea Gallante recently graduated to this high-rolling space from the hallowed kitchens of David Bouley.THE SPECIALTY Playfully elegant combinations like white tuna with olive-and-espresso bean purée, and live sea scallops with mozzarella di buffala, caviar, and roasted peach.THE VIBE Men who come for the 65,000-bottle cellar—and the women who love them.

PACE
Dinner, $80
121 Hudson St. 212-965-9500THE CHEF Jimmy Bradley is the man behind downtown neighborhood favorites like the Red Cat and the Mermaid Inn.THE SPECIALTY Rustic plates such as tuna covered in tomato mousse and toasted garlic, and bass with lemon and pickled onions.THE VIBE Chic young TriBeCans in the mood for spaghettini and Super-Tuscans.