A Delicious New Take on Asian Fusion

By NANCY MCLOUGHLIN

Glancing at the exterior, it might be easy to mistake Oishii restaurant for its predecessor, Mount Fuji, which occupied the same 60-seat space less than a year ago. Owner Andy Mak, originally from Malaysia, is the sole proprietor of the new Asian fusion restaurant. He was part of the ownership of Mount Fuji, but that is where the similarity between the two ends.

From the rubber “seaweed” place mats to the eclectic yellow china teacups, the restaurant interior has been completely renovated with great attention to detail. The sleek new style incorporates vivid lighting. Blue bulbs wash over a stone surface applied to the sushi bar. Strings of red lights warm up each front window. We felt as though we were entering a private and intimate club. Angular geometric shapes give the impression of soft waves on the ceiling.

And then there is the food. Manager Danny Ong is a self-proclaimed “food fanatic” and is confident his diners will appreciate the extremely high-quality ingredients and generous portions that make up the extensive menu offerings. The new restaurant has welcomed almost 90 percent of the former customer base back into the fold, according to Mr. Ong.

Fresh-tasting takeout is a priority for the restaurant. They have devoted four separate vehicles to dispatch the delivery orders, covering the geographic areas of Mount Kisco, Pound Ridge, Chappaqua, Armonk, Katonah, Bedford, and Bedford Hills.

Reasonably priced appetizers, like snapping fresh hot salted edamame ($5) enable the diner to select several tasting options, but portions are generous. The truffle white tuna is magnificent. Its edible garnish is a small Japanese plum with a delicate pansy inside. Tai crab cakes, a favorite with our group, come served as a stack. The lightly breaded exterior does not overpower the pillow of sweet crab flavor.

The signature beverage is a pomegranate martini, which is often too sweet in other establishments that use pomegranate vodka. Not this one. A deliciously sharp lime citrus influence blends well with the flavors of salty fish and accompanying sweet sauces.

The course of O-toro (blue fin) sashimi tuna is spectacular, as is the sliced flank steak with basil, a generous serving at $15. The standard comparison dish (General Tso’s chicken) was pronounced, “the best I have ever had” by my dining companion, something of an expert in this area. He samples this particular menu item at every Asian restaurant where it is offered.

The menu is extensive, listing options from the wok and grill, or steamed healthy food options. In addition to Southeast Asian entrees, there is a variety of sushi and sashimi, including descriptions like red clam, eel, flying fish roe, quail egg, and sweet bean curd skin.

A trip to Oishii is a pleasant experience and one that will not leave you feeling hungry nor your wallet empty. Oishii is located at 176 N. Bedford Road, Mount Kisco; 666-2348.