This year I'm planning on using 2 Bolens for snow duty instead of one like I did last year. My question is How much damage if any will chains make on the blacktop driveway. The driveway is about 2 years old. Last year I used ags and they worked great, but I have only one set which means if I want to use 2 I will have to put chains on one. I'm thinking That I'll put the ags on the one I plan on using the plow with because that is the most likely to spin/slip. The one with the chains will be the one with the snow blower which is least likely to spin/slip. Does the driveway still being fairly new have any affect? I guess what I'm trying to ask is if I'm careful and try to avoid spinning how much damage will chains do? I have used chains in the past but the driveway was pretty old and beat up last time I used them.

If you have a nice new drive try to do w/o the chains.
Use as much weight as available and the drive will be there next spring looking good.
Chains come in various configurations.
Some just kind of roundy and others with carbide V links. That's my preference because my yard is gravel. The later will leave a mark where ever it goes slip or not.
Look at ballast both in the tire and any bolt on wheel wight you can use.

The trick here is to drive the tractor only on bare asphalt. You accomplish that feat by keeping the tractor in your garage, opening the door after the snowfall and immediately begin blowing the snow away from you. Never drive over any snow or you'll pack it down. If you are forced to drive on ice or packed snow, that's where you need the chains because they're the only thing that will bite into the packed snow or ice.

As Ducky already stated, weight is your friend and the more of it the better as long as that weight is not making the front axle light because that would interfere with steering control. If you can find beet juice in your area, then load your tires to 80 percent with that product. It's also known as Rimguard. Google it and find a dealer. It delivers almost as much weight per gallon as the horrible calcium chloride.

Put as much in the way of wheel weights as you can on the rear rims. If you can devise a rear weight that will sit tight behind the back of the tractor so that it exerts its force mostly on the rear tires instead of acting like a counterweight that tries to lighten the front axle, then add as much there as you can get away with. There are rubber chains available but they are not cheap. If you weight it to the max and focus on how you clear the snow so that you keep those tires on clear pavement, you should be fine.

Just buy another set of ags and put them on a extra set of wheels if you have them.That way you can put the turffs back on in the spring.What's a hundred bucks or so to save a nice driveway.Just a thought.

If your driveway isn't sloped real hard and is fairly level I would think that turf tires with lots of weight on the one with the snow blower would work pretty good. At least you have a second tractor to pull it out if you do get stuck.

If you put liquid ballast in the tires you could add maybe another 50 pounds to each tire along with your 50 pounds of wheel weights. If you can add a weight box on the back and get another couiple hundred pounds in it I would think that unless you have really steep slopes to clmb you should be good to go. The only problem would be if you got an ice storm or ice build up then you may need chains as not much else will get you moving on ice. I'd weight the tractor up as much as you can and use it and see how well it does. You could always have the chains as backup if you have to deal with ice.
On my old John Deere 112 with the blower I have about 100 pounds of windshield washer fluid/ wheel weights on each rear tire and a good set of 2 link chains. I have a steep gravel driveway so leaving marks isn't a concern but with the weight I have on it I can stop and back up in the middle of the hill and don't have any traction problems, it might spin some but it keeps going.