Tri-Valley, Tri Tip, veraison, grommies, rad barrels, theOC or just OC…these are just some of the things we discovered on our California road trip from the Bay to the Beach. And if you think that’s a mouthful, wait’ll you get a load of how much fun we had in 10 days!

We absolutely love a good road trip. They’re just made for slow travel, and you know how much we love that. Road trips are the perfect way to explore at your own leisurely pace. You can go when you want, do or not do — take whatever time you have and adjust as you go along, whether you’re on two wheels or four. A good road trip can be had over a weekend or longer, but our California road trip itinerary took 10 days.

From the beautiful Tri-Valley just 20 miles from San Francisco Bay to the Orange County beaches (it’s just OC, not The OC) in southern California, we gazed at the rolling golden hills and sapphire blue ocean vistas, explored the summer vineyards on e-bikes, visited some incredible wineries, breweries, distilleries, and local farms, and shopped in sustainable markets. We strolled the streets of small towns and urban green spaces and malls. Our journey took us on back roads and highways through mountains and by the ocean, and along the way we shared great wine, craft beer, spirits, and laughs with some pretty awesome people. I’m not kidding when I say the free hug I got from Al at the Ojai Farmer’s Market made me want to set up my own stool! It felt good to connect with strangers and fellow Americans on the far side of the country over good food, incredible wine, common goals and dreams, and yes, even free hugs.

I had forgotten how I fell in love with California after college and wanted to move here, but never did. How I couldn’t decide which I loved more: the rolling hills of gold, the blue of the ocean, or the laid-back vibe. California is a special place. Certainly one of the world’s top destinations for food and wine. But that’s just the beginning. You should go. And when you do, take a road trip through some of these places, and say Hi to Al for me.

OUR California ROAD TRIP ITINERARY: 10 Days and 1,023 Miles from the Bay to the Beach

If a West Coast USA road trip is tempting you, this 10-day road trip itinerary might do the trick. It’s detailed here from north to south — roughly a San Francisco to Los Angeles road trip itinerary — so you can see the possibilities of what’s along each stretch of the way and customize the kind of trip that’s good for you, whether it’s just the two of you or a fun family vacay. We also list some fun stops along the way in case you’re interested in things like quirky food, killer scenic views, worthwhile small town stopovers, or a great place to pick your own strawberries (great road snacks). Here was our basic itinerary, but customize your own!

Miles Covered: 1,023

Day 1: Travel day to California — Fly into San Francisco, pick up rental car. Drive 28 miles to Livermore Valley. California is a BIG state! Unless you live along the California Central Coast, we’re allowing the first day just for travel, picking up your rental car, and getting settled in.

Days 2 - 3 — Explore the Tri-Valley (2 days)

Days 4 - 5 — Drive 4 hours to the Santa Maria Valley (2 days)

Days 6 - 7 — Drive 2 hours to the Ventura County Coast (2 days)

Days 8 - 9 — Drive 2 hours to Costa Mesa (2 days)

Day 10 — Drive 20 minutes and kick back at Huntington Beach (1 day)

If We Had More/Less Time

More Time — We’d do a slow travel road trip, spending more time in each destination. Ideally, we’d keep the itinerary the same or add 1 or 2 additional destinations like driving the Pacific Coast highway through Monterey and Big Sur in between the Tri-Valley and Santa Maria Valley.

Less Time — We’d create a more regional road trip and group destinations closer together. For instance, the Tri-Valley and Livermore wine region could be the perfect starting point for a San Francisco road trip or even a northern California road trip. Or you could add San Luis Obispo to the Santa Maria Valley for the perfect California Central Coast road trip.

Fly and Drive

If you plan on flying into a city along the California Coast and picking up a rental car, here are the most convenient airports to get in and out of quickly:

San Francisco (SFO) - major hub

San Jose (SJC)

Santa Barbara (SBA)

Los Angeles (LAX) - major hub

DAY 1 — Travel, Pick up rental car

Where to Stay in the Tri-Valley

Purple Orchid Resort & Spa

For our overnight we loved our stay at the Purple Orchid Resort & Spa in the heart of the Livermore Valley wine country. There are so many good wineries in the Livermore Valley and narrowing things down for just a two day visit can be daunting. Fortunately, the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association and the owners of the Purple Orchid were great resources. The Purple Orchid is in such a beautiful setting — rooms are modern and comfortable with a rustic, winery feel. The made-to-order breakfasts were yummy and generous. But it’s the relaxing outside pool area with it waterfall and built in jacuzzis that will be the perfect end to your day.

Tri-Valley

East of the San Francisco Bay area and 35 miles from San Francisco, the Tri-Valley Area, as the name implies, is made up of three valleys — Livermore Valley, San Ramon Valley, and Amador Valley. Of the three, the Livermore Valley in the south is the main valley with the city of Livermore and no doubt the most visited. The Amador Valley is part of the Livermore Valley which includes the cities of Pleasanton and Dublin, and the San Ramon Valley in the north features San Ramon and the very charming town of Danville. The Tri-Valley boasts 60 wineries, 23 craft breweries, shopping galore if you’re of such a mind, and excellent restaurants for every taste and budget with many featuring locally-sourced items and specialties. What we found really fun were the ‘trails’: wine trails, a beer trail, a shopping trail, an ice cream trail, and now even a caffeine trail — how cool, and original, is that? Pick-up a passport with all the stops along a particular trail and have each stop along the trail stamp it for a prize depending on the number of stops required on each trail. Ya gotta love it.

Wine tastings at the various wineries are inexpensive when compared to Napa and Sonoma (starting at around $10) but that’s no indication of the wines’ quality and complexity. In fact we found quite a few wines with a terroir that would rival some we’ve had around the world. You might love them as much as we did! There’s not a weekend without an event of some kind in the Tri-Valley like the Hot Summer Days Car Show, Wines and Steins, the Alameda County Fair, Othello at Livermore Shakespeare, and the Livermore Valley Harvest Celebration in the Fall to name just a few. Be sure to check with your hotel or online before you visit to see what’s happening to really enjoy the local vibe and make the most of your stay.

DAY 2 — E-Bikes, Wine, & Spirits Tasting (maybe Just not all at the same time!)

There’s a lot of great scenery in the Livermore Valley and plenty of good photo ops, but what they’re really known for is their wine. Livermore Valley wines are born from the ideal climate and exposure on the surrounding rolling hills. The Livermore wineries here are so close to each other, you could easily drive from one to the next, or even walk — how unique is that! But the easiest way to explore them — and certainly the most fun — is to rent a bike. And not just any bike. We’re talking an electric motor-assisted bicycle from Pedego in Livermore. The owners Jim and Loretta will outfit you with a bike sized right for you along with a helmet, lock, instructions and a map of the bike trails. You can explore on your own or reserve a bike and a spot at a winery or brewery tour with a break for lunch. We had a blast pedaling (mostly cruising) on a wine tour and those pesky hills were nosweat with the power assist. It’s like your childhood dream to add superpower to your bike — come true!

And off we went! We toured Murrieta’s Well, one of the oldest wine estates in California dating back to 1884 that specializes in excellent small batch wine production. We love when a place has an interesting story to tell and this property has a rich history on how it got its name. Folklore has it that during the California Gold Rush a notorious bandit named Joaquin Murrieta often stopped to water his horses at the artesian well here. That well still flows as a rock-walled fountain in the front courtyard of the winery. They hold year round events and as a bonus have an in-house chef producing creative food items for pairings that showcase their wines. We could have spent the afternoon here enjoying the California sun, the peaceful setting, and of course the wines.

Our second stop was Retzlaff Vineyards, a historic Victorian estate with a casual vibe producing exceptional wines from their organically certified vineyards. And they truly are exceptional. We’ve had many good wines over the years in Oregon, Italy, and Chile, and last year in Austria, but the Merlot and Cab Sav at Retzlaff made a lasting impression. We walked the property checking the grapes (some were veraison and just starting to color). What’s great about their property is how laid back it is. You can spread a blanket on the lawn shaded by 100-year old California pepper trees and picnic with a bottle of your favorite. Plus, there’s live music on Sundays.

For our final tasting of the day we visited Darcie Kent Vineyards. This unique winery with a long and interesting history is today run by vintner and artist Darcie Kent. Sourcing grapes from some of the best vineyards in the Central Coast wine region including the Livermore Valley, this winery continues to produce excellent wines. Stop by for a tasting in the artist’s gallery or reserve a table on the sun deck for a guided tasting. Not only is Darcie an accomplished vintner, she also designs the labels for each of her wines.

The Livermore Valley wineries are mellow and locally-owned, and still inexpensive to taste (most are around $10) — and made for a perfect day. For a really unique tasting, check out Sidewinder Spirits Company on Research Drive in Livermore. It’s nestled in a light industrial warehouse area known as Block 37 that’s been repurposed to also house six wine tasting rooms and a brewery all within a two block radius. The spirits are the creations of accomplished vintner John Kinney, who now distills a brandy, dry and sweet vermouths, grappa, gin, and a whiskey. The speakeasy atmosphere in the bar is comfortable and fun, and the house Old Fashioned will knock your socks off — in the best way. Across the street, stop in and check out the craft brews with some crazy names at Altamont Beer Works. The taproom space at Altamont is industrial cool, and it’s the first brewery established in the Tri-Valley since Prohibition. And yup, its on the Beer Trail!

Have dinner tonight at Campo di Bocce of Livermore for a unique experience. There is casual dining of course with house made pizza, calzones, and sandwiches along with a full service bar and very nice wine list. What we didn’t expect were the actual bocce ball courts inside next to the dining areas where you can watch some pretty serious competitors. These folks are in a bocce league and a league match was underway when we arrived. It was fun to watch while we ate and after the league play was finished we got to try our hand at rolling a few large balls at the small target ball, the pallina. Suffice it to say that we are no threat to the league players, but it sure was fun just the same.

DAY 3 — Tao House and Charming Danville and Pleasanton

You may not be familiar with Eugene O’Neill, the famous American playwright, but may be familiar with his work, such as the famous plays Mourning Becomes Electra and Long Day’s Journey Into Night. We fell into the latter and knew little about him or his somewhat troubled life. A visit to Tao House in Danville certainly enlightened us. It’s where he chose to make his home and today is a National Historic Site. O’Neill became America’s only Nobel Prize winning playwright having won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1936. A year later he and his wife, Carlotta, established Tao House which featured their love for Asian art, decor, and style. The house and surrounding property became a part of the National Park Service in 1980, thought you can’t visit the gated site on your own. Take the shuttle from in front of The Museum of the San Ramon Valley in Danville to Tao House. You’ll be treated to an in-depth guided tour through the house which contains many of the original furnishings and works or art from the time that he and his wife lived here. It was fascinating to peek into the O’Neill’s life for a moment and definitely worth the 1.5 hour tour.

Danville is a laid back town with a very cool brewery, the Danville Brewing Company. Their food menu looked tempting but we’d already had lunch — rats! But that didn’t stop us from trying their award winning 925 Blonde and checking off another brewery in our Beer Trail passport. For lunch, Danville Harvest is a great place for brunch, lunch or dinner. We ate here after touring Tao House and it was a good choice — a true farm-to-fork restaurant featuring organic locally sourced seasonal food items. Dine either inside or outside on the patio, but whatever you choose, you must order the scallion hushpuppies. The location makes for a relaxing after meal stroll along Hartz and Railroad Avenues with their many boutique shops.

If your sweet tooth is acting up, pop into Danville Chocolates with enough confections to make you swoon. As tempting as all that chocolate was, we couldn’t pass up a good ice cream parlor, and Danville has an excellent one — Lottie’s Creamery. This is the stuff that ice cream dreams are made of. Bonus — we learned about the Tri-Valley Ice Cream Trail and got our start at Lottie’s.

There’s another fun surprise in Danville for comedy movie fans. Bridges Restaurant & Bar is just down the street from Lottie’s. This elegant restaurant was the site for the famous scene in Mrs. Doubtfire where ‘her’ face falls off revealing her true identity. Remember? It was Sally Fields’ favorite restaurant!

For dinner, Sabio on Main is the perfect choice. Downtown Pleasanton is very nice and we wandered around a bit before making our reservation time at ‘Eat Real’ certified Sabio on Main. Chef Francis Hogan specializes in creating gourmet small plate items (think tapas) from sustainable locally sourced ingredients that can be shared by two. We indulged ourselves with the Chef’s 10 course tasting menu with his selected wine pairings. It was amazing from start to finish. Great atmosphere — check. Great service — check. Great food — double check!

Livermore Valley Wine Least Likely to Remind Us of the movie Sideways!

The f*****g Merlot at Retzlaff (still dreaming about it!)

Santa Maria Valley

We headed south on our road trip to our next stop, the small city of Santa Maria in the Santa Maria Valley. This area is not without its own long history. Most interesting to us was that the Native American Chumash people called this area home for several thousand years. The valley has a long agricultural tradition and an amazing 6 distinct AVAs, American Viticultural Areas, with a cool Mediterranean climate due to the geography of the valley which creates an opening to the cool air and moisture from the Pacific Ocean. There’s a lot going on in Santa Marie Valley from the beaches and dunes to hiking and cycling the hills and all within a 30 minute drive of the city. There are over 50 restaurants, 34 tasting rooms, and a great selection of craft breweries that will please even the fussiest of beer connoisseurs.

But the main thing — perhaps the biggest thing that sets Santa Maria apart — is barbecue, and not just any ol’ barbecue. We’re talking Santa Maria-style barbecue, a 150 year old tradition of cooking cuts of lightly seasoned beef over a red oak fire. We have two words for you — Tri Tip! This method of smoking gives the meat a gentle smokiness that lets the flavor of the meat come through. We’ve never had anything like it, and it is crazy delicious. Santa Maria has been named “The West’s Best BBQ Town” which sounds about right to us!

Where to Stay in the Santa Maria Valley

Radisson Santa Maria

The Radisson Santa Maria is a spacious atrium-style hotel located right on the tarmack at the Santa Maria Airport…literally! It’s quite a sight to see small planes parked outside your hotel window. The hotel has a very nice buffet breakfast and the restaurant was lively in the evening. We didn’t have time to enjoy all of the facilities offered like the pool and gym but found it a great place to relax after a long day. And best of all our bed was really comfortable.

DAY 4 — Breakfast in Livermore, Drive to the Santa Maria Valley

FUN STOPS Along the Way:

Rte. 5 Food Mart, Coalinga — Fans of jerky and strange quirky foods, Rejoice! This food mart has more flavors (35 exotic flavors to be exact) of jerky than you can shake a jerky stick at! And strange foods — hello, can you say Larvettes and Salt & Vinegar Crickettes!

Mission at San Luis Obispo de Tolosa — Another historic mission founded by Franciscan Junipero Serra in 1772, this famous church is architecturally unique among California missions with the vestibule and belfry combined and the church laid out in the shape of an ‘L’. There’s a small museum and the grounds are really lovely. Take a little time to stop here. It’s open daily to the public all year round.

We arrived in the Santa Maria Valley in the afternoon. After checking-in at our hotel in the late afternoon we needed a little refreshment. So we made the short drive over to nearby Orcutt where we found the Naughty Oak Brewing Company, a casual craft brewery on the edge of town. Wish we would have had time to stay a bit longer. It was poker night! Our dinner reservation was a few blocks back to the center of Old Town Orcutt at the famous Far Western Tavern. It has a very cool western theme with a lot of period photos adorning the walls, and the menu is billed as ‘California ranch cuisine’. Okay by us. This was our first taste of Santa Maria-style barbecue, and we can only say that we’d eat here again in a heartbeat.

DAY 5 — A Little Wine, a Little Hike, and a Whole Lotta BBQ

Breakfast this morning is at the yummy Moxie Cafe, with its excellent and generously portioned breakfast. The interesting aviation theme is a tribute to the training of P-38 Lightning pilots at the nearby Santa Maria Army Airfield during WWII.

We love to hike new unique places and just north of Guadalupe is the California State Park, Oso Flaco Lake — a scenic natural environment. There are sand dunes as far as you can see along with trees draped with Spanish Moss. And there are birds, lots and lots of birds. We missed the foot bridge that takes you to the boardwalk and instead followed the sand and gravel road as it wound through the brush. Coming back, we stayed on the boardwalk which was nearly level and a much easier hike. The lake itself seemed low due to the lack of rain in the area but there were still a lot of birds including Great Blue Herons and Egrets. This is an easy and peaceful hike to the ocean, but it can be windy and chilly. Best to throw a sweater in your daypack.

Another super fun place to visit in Nipomo is The Luffa Farm. You have to go! Have you ever used a luffa sponge and wondered what the heck it is or where it comes from? We have the answer and now know more about luffa than we could have imagined. Head to the farm for a free tour that’s interesting and fun. Luffa comes from a vine grown gourd and these folks grow the softest luffas around. The tour doesn’t take long and it’s just as much fun to walk around the quirky funky gardens. There’s a nice small gift shop here where you can stock up on all your luffa needs.

There are many excellent wineries in the Santa Maria Valley to check out but with our limited time we chose the Presqu’ile Winery and were glad we did. The architecturally stunning building and tasting room is beautifully designed in glass with natural wood and stone. The tasting room and patio overlook the valley and the surrounding hills and gives you an idea of how the geography of the Santa Maria Valley influences the vineyards. Either make a reservation for a tour of the winery or enjoy a glass of wine while waiting for the next one to begin. When we visited, a stage was set up for one of the events that are held regularly throughout the year. You can enjoy a tasting indoors or pick your favorite and enjoy it on the outside patio with a view all the way to the ocean on a clear day.

As we were about to leave the winery, we asked for a recommendation on where to have the best barbecue and a cold beer. They didn’t hesitate to suggest Jocko’s in Nipomo. We asked again at the hotel — Jocko’s. We asked at the gas station — gotta go to Jocko’s. You guessed it. We went to Jocko’s. Fortunately we got there just as folks were arriving for dinner. Have you ever had ribeye slow roasted over red oak coals? We hadn’t either but now that we have we’re not sure that anything else will ever match up. It was amazing! Good BBQ and cold beer — you gotta go to Jocko’s.

Sometimes we just need something simple for dinner that appeals to our Italian roots. Sometimes it’s pasta, sometimes it’s pizza. We found both at our dinner at Pizzeria Bello Forno in Orcutt — fresh pasta along with wood-fired artisan pizza and a nice bottle of locally produced wine. Lucky us! It’s a good thing we arrived when we did. The food here is so good, people were waiting around outside for a seat. And we can’t blame them.

DAY 6 — Drive the Beautiful Santa Ynez Valley and into Ventura

Grab a quick breakfast and hit the road — today is gonna be fun! The drive south from the Santa Maria Valley grows slightly more verdant as you skirt the coast, then turn inland onto Route 154 and head through the Santa Ynez Valley toward the Chumash Reservation and Cachuma Lake. Our two hour drive further south brought us to Ventura. What a difference from the agricultural areas we had been visiting. It certainly was busier and seemed more touristy with lots of pedestrian traffic especially as we reached our hotel in Ventura Harbor. Understandable, as it was the weekend and Ventura is just an hour north of Los Angeles. We can see the attraction and the vibe was very laid back. There’s so much to do here — beaches, boating, museums, shopping, golfing, and so many good dining choices.

FUN STOPS Along the Way:

Pick-Ur-Own Produce and Flowers — The Santa Maria Valley is agriculturally rich, and that includes beautiful cut flowers too. Stop in a Pick-Ur-Own for produce and cut flowers fresh off the vine

Hike Cachuma Lake — You’ll pass stunning landscapes as you drive along Rte. 154, including the scenic Cachuma Lake, which you’ll drive right by! Stop for a photo op, or pull into the main parking area for a short hike. Whether traveling either north or south, there are signs indicating where to park.

Los Olivos — A cute little town just off Route 154 with a lot of tasting rooms, fun places to eat and a funky general store. But we have to say it — there are no public restrooms in stores and you’ll be directed to the church in town. With so much wine being poured, make sure you know the way to church!

The Santa Maria Valley Food That Made Us Want to Be a Cowboy?

The Grilled Ribeye Sampler at Jocko’s Steakhouse

Ventura County Coast

The Ventura County Coast includes not only Ventura County but also the cities of Ventura, Oxnard, Camarillo, and Port Hueneme, with the coastal city of Ventura being the largest. Situated between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles, the region has a rich history dating back to 1782 when the Mission San Buenaventura was established, hence the shortened name of Ventura. This coast offers a lot to visitors and those who live here year round with sunny skies and seaside charm. Name a water sport and it can no doubt be enjoyed here. Other outdoor activities like hiking and camping are within an easy drive. With the extent of outdoor activities this area thrives on, it’s no wonder that the outdoor brand Patagonia is headquartered here. Ventura has excellent restaurants, museums, a walkable downtown, and a historic overlook at Serra Cross Park. The cities of Oxnard and Camarillo also are worth a closer look for family farms, excellent shopping and restaurants, a beautiful harbor, and a great Maritime Museum.

Where to Stay in the Ventura Coast

Holiday Inn Express & Suites Ventura Harbor — This newly-renovated property is located right on the Ventura Harbor marina within easy walking distance to Ventura Harbor Village. Our room overlooked the marina and the ocean beyond and Wow, what a view! We loved the location, the easy but satisfying breakfast included, and that great shower!

Arrive in Ventura in time for a late lunch at Spencer Makenzie’s World Famous Fish Tacos. Living in south Florida, we love fish tacos, so we had to try this place in downtown Ventura to see if they lived up to the hype. It’s not a big place but it’s so much fun, and the tacos? It’s no hype — some of the best anywhere! Right around the corner from Spencer Makenzie’s is the historic wooden Ventura Pier which dates to 1872 and was renovated and updated in 1993. Its a fun and leisurely walk with a snack bar, public restrooms, and a seafood restaurant. It’s also a great place to watch surfers and on a clear day have great views of the Channel Islands.

Also downtown is the Mission San Buenaventura, a beautiful old Spanish style mission church founded in 1782 by the Franciscan Junipero Serra and a large part of the area’s history. Over the years the church has been destroyed by fire and damaged by earthquakes, but has been restored to the adobe style that is seen today. A beautiful fountain and grounds along with a museum are part of the mission complex which remains a functioning Roman Catholic church.

After all the sightseeing, stop into the Ventiki Lounge & Lanai Tiki Bar in downtown Ventura. Did you know tiki bars are making a big comeback? And not a moment too soon! This place has everything a self-respecting tiki bar should have — a thatched roof, real tiki drink glasses, bartenders wearing Hawaiian shirts, island and surf music, a waterfall, and tiki torches. And, wait for it, a video of Elvis playing on the tube in his concert ‘Aloha From Hawaii’. Now that’s a tiki bar!

After a full afternoon, you have a wealth of good choices for dinner downtown. We loved Rice by Mama, a Thai restaurant many people recommended as the best Thai cuisine in town. It didn’t disappoint. Everything you’d expect on an authentic Thai menu is there and our dinner was delicious. Another great choice downtown is Tony’s Pizzaria — the bright and colorful exterior immediately catches your eye and screams fun. It’s hard to figure out the set-up until you actually go to eat — it’s equal parts beach and boardwalk with a pizzeria! We’re now lovin’ Tony’s.

At sunset you must head back into Ventura to Serra Cross Park, a one acre portion of the larger Grant Park. The cross, named for the Franciscan Junipero Serra overlooks the city of Ventura with a great view of the Channel Islands. There’s plenty of parking at the top of the hill to watch the spectacular sunsets over the Pacific Ocean.

DAY 7 — Ventura Harbor, in the Sunshine!

We love boats and marinas and the view from our hotel at Ventura Harbor was calling us from our first look! But Ventura Harbor is more than just a huge marina. There’s a mix of dive boats, working boats, Coast Guard and private boats of nearly every shape and size. We explored the harbor for two hours by renting an electric Duffy boat from Ventura Boat Rentals. The route takes you through the marina area and through channels lined with homes right on the water. We think this was a great way to spend a couple of hours and see the harbor from the inside out. We even met a couple of sea lions sunning themselves on a dock, who hardly wanted to be bothered looking up for a photo op!

After lunch, head to the city of Oxnard Beach Park just south of Ventura. The park is very popular and on the day we visited that proved to be very true. Families will love the boardwalk and beach. The pavilions were all full with families and organizations picnicking and there were folks enjoying the day on blankets on the lawn.

For lunch, check out the Annex Food Hall at The Collection in Oxnard, a great outdoor shopping mall with very cool stores and restaurants. We had a lot of choices on what to eat but just had to try Seoul Sausage featuring Korean style bowls with a California twist. Our new favorite bowl — Seoul Tots with kimchi and carne asada. Trust us, it works. Just around the corner from Seoul Sausage is Afters Ice Cream. Don’t know about you but we can’t pass up a good ice cream shop. Afters isn’t just good, it’s an ice cream lover’s heaven.

After lunch is the perfect time to visit the Channel Islands Maritime Museum. What a surprise — it was so much more than what we expected! We happened to be there the same day that a Chowder Festival was going on so the museum wasn’t really open to the public. Fortunately one of the docents at the museum offered to take us on a tour. He was excellent and gave us a great tour. We were fascinated by the incredible array of model sailing ships and historic paintings. Upstairs there’s even more interesting finds for nautiphiles (is that a word?) Seriously, there are ship bells, art installations made from sea nets, and the world’s most comprehensive display of Nauti knots!

If the mountains are calling you and you just want to hike, you absolutely MUST go to Ojai and hike thePiedra Blanca Formations Trail. Ojai is a quaint artsy town located in a valley in the Topa Topa mountains not far from Ventura. It’s a popular tourist destination with boutique hotels, galleries, and New Age shops. We really loved the farmer’s market which had locally grown organic produce along with baked goods, honey, and locally produced goods and crafts. When you’re in town try a kombucha tasting flight at Revel Kombucha Bar & Acai Bowls.

The Piedra Blanca Formations Trail is in the Rose Valley Area of the Los Padres National Forest, Ojai. This is a fairly easy hike of approximately 2.5 miles out and back. There are only a few moderate uphills and the trail is level and easy to follow. Hikers of all skill levels can do this hike and the formations are amazing. Be sure to pack enough water on hot days.

As the sun sets and the last rays of the day play on the Topa Topa mountains surrounding Ojai, there occurs what the locals call the ‘pink moment’. You can enjoy this relaxing end to the day at the Ojai Valley Inn while sipping a local wine. The mountains begin to be colored in a light pink slowly turning to a muted red and the Ojai Valley turns shades of peachy pink. And as the sun finally finishes playing on the mountains the trees at the Inn begin to glow with dozens of softly lit lanterns hanging in the branches. It’s a peaceful fairytale end to the day.

FUN STOPS Along the Way:

Casitas — Country music fans may want to stop in Casitas, a tiny town you’ll drive through on the way to Ojai from Ventura. It’s the home of Johnny Cash, and that’s a pretty big deal! When you see the billboard, STOP — otherwise you’ll miss the town completely!

Camarillo — On your way south out of Ventura, stop at the McGrath Family Farms for lots of fresh organically grown fruits and vegetables. The strawberries and apricots we bought were so good. Camarillo also has a lovely church right in town. We happened onto St. Mary Magdalen Church and stopped to have a look. It’s a simple church with a bell tower and beautiful stained glass windows, mosaics, and a lovely garden area. It makes an absolutely stunning picture. For nature and bird lovers, the Western Foundation of Vertebrate Zoology in Camarillo is all about birds. The facility houses a huge collection of eggs, mounted birds, and nests. It’s not open all the time but you can visit here on a monthly open house day and the $5 admission fee is worth it.

Neptune’s Net — If you’re driving Route 101 (Pacific Coast Highway or PCH for short) between Ventura County and Malibu, this seafood restaurant right on the highway is a great place for a beer and a bite. Their seafood platters are fresh and yummy, and the killer unobstructed view of the Pacific ocean across the street can’t be beat!

Favorite Ventura Food Experience?

Tony’s Pizzaria for Food, Fun, & Giant Jenga

Costa Mesa

Located an hour south of LA, the city of Costa Mesa is in Orange County — or The OC for those initiated to SoCal living like we are! You may not think of an urban area like Costa Mesa when it comes to road tripping California since many times of the day, any hair blowing out your car window might come to a standstill along with the traffic. But you’d be missing out on some of the coolest sights in California if you skip it. We weren’t sure what to expect outside the LA Freeway, but just like any major metro area, there’s always so much more than the highways that run through it, and that’s certainly the case in Costa Mesa. The city used to be largely agricultural but has grown from the rural farming community of 50 years ago to the suburbs today with over 100,000 in its 16 square miles.

But here’s the funny part…for an urban area, Costa Mesa has a relaxed and very livable feel with lots of green space and a dedication to the arts that we haven’t seen in many places. In fact, Costa Mesa is known as “The City of the Arts” and there’s proof on every single corner and city block. Costa Mesa is also the only place in Orange County you can see Broadway shows on stage. Another great reason to visit Costa Mesa is the incredible array of restaurants. There are numerous Top Chefs here and Costa Mesa claims two Michelin-star rated restaurants — Taco Maria and Hana Re — the most in OC. Without a doubt, the variety and quality of restaurants here rivals the best anywhere, from casual eateries serving organic and healthy options to high-end restaurants where the focus on quality is unparalleled, and everything in between.

DAY 8 — To Costa Mesa and Orange County — OC, Baby!

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Where to Stay in Costa Mesa

Stylish and chic, the Avenue of the Arts Hotel was named Hotel of the Year by Marriott International and is a 4-Diamond AAA property 5 years running. The craft cocktails at the Silver Trumpet restaurant make for a perfect cocktail hour, and the entire property has to be one of the most Instagrammable in southern California! From its prime location to our uber comfy bed, we loved our stay here and can’t wait to come back.

When you arrive in town, head straight for The LAB Anti-Mall, a hipster hangout and the outdoor home of the “little American businesses” with its cool, neighborhood vibe. Here is where you’ll find the most unique finds from clothing to classic vinyl. Across the street, The CAMP focuses on independent and green or sustainable businesses. You’ll need your wallet — not because it’s expensive, but because there’s so many little things you’ll never see at home. There are 3 breweries in The CAMP — Gunwhale Ales, Barley Forge Brewing Co., Salty Bear, and Bootlegger’s at The LAB. We had some really great beer at Barley Forge, known for their Belgian- and German-style ales. “The Patsy” was a hit with us both, and apparently lots of others too — it recently won a big award at the World Beer Cup.

Stay at The CAMP and have dinner at Old Vine Kitchen & Bar(but call ahead for reservations). They specialize in 4-course tasting menus (there are 5 in all) and the meal we had herewill stay with us forever. Seriously. I don’t think we’ve ever had so much fun with amazing food all created by Chef Mark McDonald, and how the wines were so expertly-paired with every course by Sommelier Kate Perry. The enthusiasm she brings to tasting good wines is contagious!

DAY 9 — The Art of Shopping at South Coast Plaza

If a good Cuppa Joe is high on your list this morning, Philz is the place to go. Originally started in San Francisco, Philz Coffee has expanded with 52 locations across the country (there may be one near you) but allow some extra time. There’s always a line out the door! Plus, it’s right across the street from the South Coast Plaza, which should definitely be your next stop.

Today is a great day to exercise a little retail therapy at the famous South Coast Plaza. And in between, check off some stops along the self-guided Costa Mesa Art Walk, one of the fun (and FREE) cultural things to do in Costa Mesa. Download the Art Walk map before you start. Shoppers delight — you are in Shopping Heaven my friends! Shopping in Costa Mesa integrates art and architecture, which is what sets the South Coast Plaza apart from just your average mall. It’s the largest retail center on the West Coast and has been here for over 50 years. But it feels brand new. Today, the retail brands and restaurant concepts are current and world-class. It’s truly a shopping experience even if you’re like me and not a big shopper. There’s even a VIP Access Suite near Saks 5th Avenue where you can relax like the VIP that you are… think airline lounge for the shopping experience!

Be sure and walk across the Unity Bridge (a stop on the Art Walk) to the Home-store extension of South Coast Plaza, and take a unique cooking class! Stonewall Kitchen, the East Coast brand known for their farm stand-style jams, jellies, syrups, and salsas, have opened their second cooking school in Costa Mesa, and we LOVED taking a class there. Chef Susan Carter brings such a vivacious energy to her classes, and orchestrates them perfectly so you’re noshing on the food course as she’s preparing it. You’ll receive a full, multi-course lunch and take with you all the info you need to recreate the meal at home. We highly recommend her classes — and her food. Told you this isn’t your average shopping mall!

After class, continue walking along the nearby city plazas and sculpted glass corporate buildings that actually feel quite private. Like the most beautiful scavenger hunt, the Costa Mesa Art Walk tempts you through downtown, through the Segerstrom Center for the Arts and several other plazas to find unique works of art — by artists both local and internationally renowned as well. During summer months on Mondays, grab a blanket and your dog and head to where they show fun family movies on the lawn on Movie Mondays. How about dance lessons on Tuesdays or live jazz on Fridays? There’s always something fun going on.

Why not enjoy dinner tonight at the lovely Silver Trumpet restaurant located inside the very chic Avenue of the Arts Hotel. We enjoyed our dinner here, especially the setting on the outside patio complete with gas fire pits and overlooking the beautiful small lake. If you’re visiting in mid-summer, there’s one place you have to go where the food is always fun and giant turkey legs are everywhere — the world-famous Orange County Fair!

The ORANGE COUNTY FAIR — Summer Fun in OC!

If you time your road trip in mid-July to mid-August, it’s OC Fair time. Whatever you do, don’t miss it — it’s SO much fun! You can go for the entire day, but don’t worry about being worn out from a whole day of amusement rides. There are many other unique things at the Orange County Fair, from the OC Wine Society wine garden and beer tastings, to culinary demonstrations, petting zoos, interactive agricultural exhibits, an overhead chair lift ride… the list goes on. It’s easy to linger with lots of space for the whole family to run around and have fun. Check out general info on the Fair here. The Fair is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

They even have some fantastic live music performances from top artists to faves from your generation. I mean, how can you not love the Bee Gees!

Person Most Responsible for Making Us Appreciate the Marriage of Food & Wine?

Rock Star Sommelier Kate Perry, Old Vine Kitchen & Bar, Costa Mesa

Huntington Beach

Long road trips can sure make you saddle sore, can’t they? So after a week and a half on the road, there’s no better way to refresh than with a day at the beach! Huntington Beach is the quintessential southern California beach and the Surfing Capital of California with the most consistent waves on the West Coast. Surfing here is a way of life . But there’s something for everyone to enjoy, even if you can’t exactly hang ten. Grommies like us know little about surfing but love watching the pros duck into some rad barrels out there. We saw surfers, inline skaters, cyclists, volleyballers, skateboarders, joggers, beach babes, and sunbathers — the beach, Pier, and bike paths were so full of activity, we didn’t know where to look first! Huntington Beach offers the most authentic surf lifestyle, coupled with 10 miles of uninterrupted coastline. It’s such a welcoming town with warm and mild temperatures and year-round sun where visitors can feel at home on the sand. I don’t think we stopped smiling from the moment we arrived. Yes it’s a bit touristy being so close to Los Angeles and Disneyland but that is also part of its charm, and Catalina Island is just an hour off the coast. There is so much going on and all at the same time. It’s like one big playground from the great beaches to the boutique shops and fun places to eat. So pedal the bike path along the beach, have an incredible milkshake on the pier, then sit around a fire on the beach (there are over 500 fire pits on the beach, first come first serve). And the surf is always up here. This is the historic mecca for surfing’s legends to today’s world class surfers. It’s not called Surf City USA® for nothin’! Can’t you just hear the Beach Boys?

Day 10 — Beach and Spa Day in Huntington Beach!

RVers!

If you’re road tripping with an RV, the Bolsa Chica State Park offers space for beach RVing, as does Sunset Vista Park in the city (though it’s closed to RVs in the summer).

If you’re going for the day, park underground at the Pacific City mall. There is a parking garage with entrance off of Pacific View Lane, and it’s a great place to base yourself for the day. Have breakfast at the farm-to-table Bluegold (on the second level at the mall just steps from your car), an upscale casual restaurant with a killer view of the beach and ocean. The menu is based on seasonal locally sourced ingredients. Everything here for brunch was excellent.

After breakfast, take a short walk around town and you’ll find all kinds of gems, surfing related and not. The World’s Largest Surfboard is on display in Huntington Beach. It set not just one but two Guinness World Records in 2015. One for being the ‘world’s largest surfboard’ and another for ‘most people riding a surfboard at once’. It’s true. 66 surfers rode a wave on this 42 feet long board for 12 seconds! There are charming souvenir stores, family-run surf shops, trendy women's boutiques, enchanting vintage collections, as well as bicycle and motorcycle supplies. The Surfing Walk of Fame in Huntington Beach got its start in 1994. A small group wanted to pay tribute to legendary surfers and their contributions to the sport. Annual ballots are cast by the surfing industry to recognize the very best in the sport who should be added to the walk, a recognition which helps to preserve the rich history of surfing and the contributions made by those dedicated to the sport.

Then head to the beach and rent bikes at Zack’s HB and cruise the 10-mile paved beach path. Look to the west to enjoy the stunning ocean view and to the east to see the famous Pacific Coast Highway. Beach concessionaires renting and selling bicycles, tandem bicycles, electric bicycles, surreys, and more line the route, which also offers plenty of places to stop for a bite, picnic, photo op, or bathroom break. Once you’ve tried your hand at surf lessons or that long beach bike ride has you sore, you need to decompress and have the kinks worked out. And we have just the place — the Aarna Spa at the Paseá Hotel & Spa, near the end of Pacific City mall through the food hall, Lot 570. It’s everything a spa should be. From the time you enter you’re surrounded by the tranquil Balinese-inspired decor with soft lighting, natural wood, and gentle fragrance. After a massage by a skilled professional masseuse relax in the sauna or steam room, or take a dip in a relaxing jacuzzi. They don’t rush you at all and you can relax as long as you like. It’s a perfect oasis of calm.

Grab drinks or dinner at Lot 579, the incredible food hall at Pacific City, then head to the Surf City Nights Street Fair and Certified Farmers Market. On Tuesday nights, the first three blocks of Main Street are closed to traffic and transformed with local artisans, fresh produce, live music, and kids games, and local shops and eateries open their doors extra wide for the community. This day in Huntington Beach was the perfect ending to our California road trip — not a bad way at all to refresh our mind, body and spirit.

Ten days may seem like a long time to be on the road, but when there’s so much to experience it just isn’t enough. What those ten days do provide though is a desire — a longing even — to return, to revisit places we enjoyed to experience more, and to discover the places we missed. All along the way on this part of the California Coast we found excellent wines, miles of fields that provide farm-to-fork eating, beautiful beaches and mountain scenery, and some really nice friendly folks. If you’re thinking of planning a West Coast road trip, try this California road trip itinerary, with five totally unique destinations and even more in between.

There’s no doubt we’ll visit this part of California again, if for no other reason than the laid-back vibe and the luscious ‘pink moment’.

As always, all opinions, stories, and photos are our own based on firsthand experience.

]]>California Road Trip Itinerary: 10 Days of Food, Fairs, & Fun From the Bay to the BeachWhy Travel for Food (and Wine)? 19 Unique Destinations Around the World Have The AnswerBeer Wine & SpiritsTravel GuidesLocal Food GuideLori and Angelo SorrentinoMon, 19 Aug 2019 15:47:52 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/travel-for-food-and-wine-destinations53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5c62f899652deaa2362a8305There are many reasons to travel for food and wine, and maybe beer. These
unique culinary destinations around the world reveal what food and wine
says about them!

Are you the type who will travel for food and wine, and maybe beer? Maybe you’re super hardcore and will go far for one exquisite little morsel? Have we got some inspo for you — new and maybe unexpected food and wine additions for your culinary wish list.

Why Travel for Food and Wine?

Food, wine, spirits, and beer all reflect things like the history, heritage, and values of a people and place. Ingredients reflect agriculture, which speaks to an area’s history. Food and wine products reveal what local people have been working at, growing, harvesting, and investing in…what they’re passionate about, what their grandparents may have started and they continue. It’s a beautiful thing. Plus, food and wine just go together like peas and carrots, oil and vinegar, Bogie and Bacall and hundreds of other famous pairings. Because they work together, they need each other, and both make the other shine brighter. While some destinations around the world are known for their food and others for wine, some also do both very well. Places like California, Chile, Bologna… they’re known for their unique local foods, and their wines are fantastic too. It’s almost too much to ask. Everyone knows what to expect when you mention California cuisine. Or wines made in the Italian-style. If you’re a foodie or wine lover and looking for some new places to explore, you may be familiar with some of these.

Following are some amazing destinations around the world for food and wine. Here’s hoping you’ll find some new ideas and exciting food and wine to please your palate. Cheers to that!

1. Graz

Graz, Austria, capital of the southern Austrian region of South Styria (Steiermark) known as the Green Heart of Austria, is one of our favorite foodie destinations. The region is known for producing unique local foods like pumpkin products and pumpkin seed oil, and famous for their light and crisp Austrian white wine. The food scene in Graz is delicious and so much fun, where you can spend your days grazing from one end of the city to the other, noshing on mini, open-faced sandwiches (try them at Delikatessen Frankowitsch or Bar Albert with a glass of wine), fresh roasted chestnuts in the fall from local street vendors, or whatever looks good at several daily farmers markets. For dinner, don’t leave the city without dining at Restaurant Eckstein. The food that Executive Chef Michael Hebenstreit and his team are creating is artfully fun and delicious. For a heartier dinner of local specialties and Styrian tapas, Der Steier is boisterous and very good. The countryside south of the city — Südsteiermark, or south Steiermark — is lush and verdant. We were surprised to find few Americans visiting this part of the country though it’s a popular destination among Austrians and other Europeans. Rent a car and drive the South Styrian wine road, a scenic loop of less-traveled country roads that ramble past rolling vineyards and wineries where you can leisurely stop for a taste of their latest bottling. Be sure and stop in a pumpkin seed oil press like Resch Kernölpresse for a tour and tasting of their products. Vinofaktur Genussregal, located in Sankt Veit am Vogau just across the river from Ehrenhausen, is a foodie’s paradise, filled with everything imaginable related to local food and wine. For a nominal fee of around $5 USD, you can take their tour to see just how committed the local farmers and producers are to local and sustainable food production. Highly recommended!

First course at Restaurant Eckstein, Graz

2. Prague

Is there ever enough time in a premier location to enjoy all the flavors it has to offer? You might not think of Prague as a foodie destination, though it’s certainly a carnivore’s dream. Prague has some of the best traditional food in the Czech Republic. But surprisingly there are some very good vegetarian options tucked in between to satisfy even the most discerning Vegan. Forrest Bistro is one such option, a Vegan bistro and espresso bar offering lunch, dinner, and some killer vegan desserts. Maitrea is another excellent choice near the tourist part of the city, and while it’s gaining in popularity (and patronage) it’s always a good choice. Add in those great Czech beers and you’re in a food lover’s paradise. There is no shortage of excellent restaurants in the city, but if you’re short on time, consider taking a food tour. It’s a great way to maximize your limited time and give you a nice overview along with a delicious taste of what’s on the menu in Prague. We opted for such a tour with Taste of Prague food tour. Our guide was a foodie expert and didn’t waste any time getting us started on the four hour food journey.

Tredlnik, a popular street sweet in Prague

3. Lafayette, Louisiana

I’ve written about Lafayette continually since we first visited — you know a place is special when it stays with you over time. And as a writer, it’s one of those places I continue to reference (and compare to, #sorrynotsorry). I suppose all of Louisiana and the US Gulf Coast has that utterly unique feel about it from New Orleans to Shreveport and everywhere in between. But to me, Lafayette embodies the Acadiana culture that south Louisiana is known for — that raucous blend of bayou, boudin, and drive-thru daiquiris. Try the etoufee at the TABASCO’s 1868 Restaurant, the Sweet Baby Breesus (boudin balls on biscuits with praline bacon and Steen syrup) at The French Press, and anything catfish at Prejean’s. The French influence runs a vibrant swale through the swamp giving everything it touches that something special: the food in Lafayette is incomparable, the beer, the people, the landscape — just about everything in Lafayette is a cauldron just about to bubble over at any second. Foodies will love the choices here from unique local foods to more upscale interpretations. It’s all good. Please go. Not only is Lafayette one of the top food destinations in the USA, it rivals the best places for food in the world, hands down.

There’s always a good crawfish boil in Lafayette

4. Tualatin Valley, Oregon

The fertile Willamette Valley of Oregon in the US Pacific Northwest is renowned as one of the world’s top wine destinations. It’s an enormous region. The Willamette Valley runs between Oregon’s Coastal Range and the Cascade Mountains, more than 100 miles long and spanning 60 miles at its widest point. Over 550 wineries produce wine from nearly 22,000 vineyard acres planted. Compare that with the 46,000 acres of California's Napa Valley to get a better perspective. Wine in Oregon is a very big deal, with room to get even bigger.

So to narrow your exploration, head to the northernmost part of the Willamette Valley known as the Tualatin Valley. What makes the Tualatin Valley so distinct among an already stellar wine-producing region? The terroir, of course. It's always about the terroir, and it's no different here. Yet it is different, because the northern end of this enormous Valley received the lion's share of the mineral-rich loess soil that was deposited eons ago during the Ice Age Missoula Flood. The soil here is like nowhere else in the United States or the world, which is just one factor behind the stellar winemaking. The Pinot Noir in the Tualatin Valley is a thing to behold. So start planning your next Oregon wine trip, and head for the Tualatin Valley.

5. Bologna

On one of our trips to Italy we decided to check out Bologna and the Emilia Romagna region of which it is the capital. No trip to Italy has been the same since. When we’re planning on where to go next in Italy our plans almost always include a stay in Bologna. And why you ask? Simple, it’s the food. Bologna has long been overlooked by tourists in favor of its neighbors, Venice to the north and Florence to the south, but Bologna’s secret is getting out. Considered by many, even Italians, the culinary capital of Italy, Bologna’s food is truly unique among Italian regional foods. If it’s your first trip to Bolognaor you’ve visited before, dive right in. Our first meal here at Trattoria Serghei, and one we now never miss, was the Bologna specialty, tortellini in brodo, small stuffed pasta in broth. We added a glass of one of the hallmark wines of Emilia Romagna, pignoletto, and have never forgotten that first lunch. There are several pasta shops, known as sfogline, around the city where you can watch them being made fresh, pick out which pasta you want, then sit down to have your meal made in house. Try the larger tortelloni or the even larger tortellacci. The Bolognese are meat eaters and much of what is featured in the cuisine is made from various meat sources. Sausages, prosciutto, salamis, and mortadella, a cured pork sausage that is unique to Bologna can be found throughout the city. For the best experience, head for the old city market area, the Quadrilatero.Here you can try just about anything that’s on the Bolognese menu.

A must try is parmigiano reggiano, the “King of Cheeses”. The cheese is made and aged under very strict rules and we’re happy that it is. Another area specialty made under very strict regulations is Balsamic di Modena, which is aged for up to 25 years — it’s expensive and worth every penny of its silky smoothness. Try it on gelato, fruit or ricotta. Lasagne lovers accustomed to what is served in the USA are in for the best lasagne ever. It’s the pasta that rules here, not those layers stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella, and heavy meat sauce. Bolognese lasagne consists of layers of spinach pasta like you’ve never had with béchamel sauce and a bit of tomato sauce between the layers. Very different and absolutely yummy! As you wander from shop to shop you’re likely to see small round flatbreads that are scored with a design. These are tigelle, a bread cooked in a cast iron mold like American cornbread, and are usually stuffed with a mixture of herbs, spices, pork and lard. They’re good on their own and you can stuff whatever you like into the plain ones. For desert, there are gelato and coffee shops on every block. Our favorite for gelato is Cremeria Santo Stefano, pure heaven.

Traditional Ragu Bolognese, Bologna

6. Osaka

Arguably the food capital of Japan, Osaka boasts a food scene that is both vibrant and maybe a bit overwhelming. People in Osaka love to eat and enjoy introducing visitors to their cuisine. Street food can be found throughout the city but if you’re interested in a true gourmet experience then head for the the Umeda, Dotonbori, and Shinsekai areas. In these areas you will find some of the very best restaurants in the city. One of the most famous foods loved in Osaka is takoyaki, dumplings filled with octopus or sometimes shrimp that can be found on the street or in restaurants. Maybe one the most famous places to have takoyaki is the Dotonbori Konamon Museum with a giant red octopus above the entrance. A very popular food also found everywhere in the city is okonomiyaki. This is a large pancake made with eggs, yams, and cabbage topped with whatever you like and how much of it you want. Things like pork, squid, cabbage, shrimp, the list is only as endless as what is on the menu. But not all food in Osaka is Japanese. There is a Korea Town with Korean restaurants that have been there for decades. People come to this area to enjoy Yakiniku or barbecued beef. You pick the cut of meat from the menu and grill it over coals right at your table.

7. Jamaica

This colorful country in the Caribbean West Indies is known for its rum, sugar cane, Rastafarian religion, and Irie island vibe, but they’re perhaps most famous for the reggae musical gospel of Robert Nesta Marley. Or are they more well known for their food? That’s kind of a hard one. The flavors of this island country are so unique — even amongst other Caribbean nations — and of course, the ingredients are only half the story. It’s what they do with them that finishes it, and quite nicely on the palate I might add. When it comes right down to it, Jamaica is an original farm-to-table food destination, out of necessity. Ingredients are made fresh, or kept fresh by stewing, pickling, or preserving. But refrigeration is not a given in Jamaica, and the creative cooks here rise to the occasion — necessity is often the Mother of invention. Jamaica undoubtedly deserves a spot on this list for the many unique foods of Jamaica like ackee fruit,callaloo, jerk chicken, and of course Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. If you travel to just one country for the food, I have two words for you — Jamaica, mon!

8. Campania, Italy

With our grandparents emigrating from this area of the Campania Region and Sicily, this is the regional Italian cuisinethat we’ve been most familiar with all our lives. But something was different when we actually visited for the first time. It could have been that we were enjoying it all in Naples, but it was more than just the atmosphere. Everything we were eating was fresh. The fruits, the vegetables, the seafood, it was all fresh and freshly prepared. With so many great restaurants, it’s hard to miss but therein lies a problem. Naples is a big city and can be a bit daunting when it comes to choosing where to eat. From our 3 days in Naples, here are some suggestions. We loved Antonio e Antonio. They may have had the best homemade pasta that we had, a simple dish with fresh cherry tomatoes, basil and olive oil. Their food was that good that we kept going back to try something else on the menu. The tomatoes here are grown in the volcanic soil of Mt.Vesuvius. Regardless of their size, they are a deep red, sweet and we’ve never tasted anything like them anywhere else. So sure, you can have great pasta and seafood at many places in the city but what about the one thing that separates Naples from other Italian cuisine. We’re talking about pizza — and not just any pizza. There are many great pizza shops all over the city but our favorite is Pizzeria Da Michele. It’s a quaint place on a side street with only one thing on the menu. It’s the most incredible pizza we’ve ever eaten, and we’d return to Naples just to have another pie. But we also had good pizza in nearby Sorrento at Pizzeria Basilico.

Sorrento has a number of really great restaurants, but a must-try is in the hills above Sorrento, the Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890 — truly a one-of-a-kind experience! The island of Capri should also not be overlooked in amazing Campanian cuisine, so you should probably check out our favorite restaurants throughout Naples and the Amalfi Coast for our best suggestions. For those with a serious sweet tooth, you’ll find the sfogliatella, a shell shaped, filled pastry, is the dessert treat of Napoli and Campania. They can be found everywhere and from bite size to ones you can share. A ribbon of crispy thin dough holds all sorts of fillings from orange flavored ricotta, ricotta with citron, custards, chocolate, and almond. They are a must with an espresso. For a great selection of restaurants and cafes to try unique Campanian foods, don’t pass up Naples and Sorrento. Buon appetito!

Is there anything better than wood fired pizza in Naples, Italy?
Possibly one of the best things I've ever eaten, Don Alfonso 1890, Sorrento

9. Chengdu

Named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, Chengdu, China is at the heart of Sichuan cuisine. This city is a foodie’s paradise especially if you enjoy authentic Asian cuisine. Excellent dishes can be found as street food or in restaurants. Street vendors are everywhere and sell complete dishes as well as snacks. A Chengdu favorite is pockmarked granny’s tofu, a spicy dish of bean curd topped with minced beef in a bean-based sauce although we’re not sure why it has its name. Another interesting favorite is ‘fish fragrant pork’, shredded pork fried in a sweet fish sauce but that doesn’t taste like fish. A specialty of the city is chuanchuan, skewers with a variety meats, vegetables, and quail eggs. Chuanchuan restaurants can be found throughout the city. Basically, you select skewers with the ingredients of your choice. They are then boiled in a spicy broth and eaten with dipping sauces of your choice. Kung pao chicken is on most every menu but nothing like we’re served in the States. Stir fried chicken, yes fried with peanuts and asparagus lettuce served with a unique sauce. Enjoy all the dishes the city has to offer. Just be careful with how spicy you request a dish to be. Sichuan cuisine can set your mouth on fire.

We think it’s seafood of some kind, Chengdu, China

10. Buenos Aires

A combination of many cuisines especially from the Mediterranean areas of Spain, Italy, and France, the Argentine capital is a melting pot of cuisines. Argentines love meat and eat a great deal of it throughout the year. Asado, a style of barbecue, is the favorite way to eat meat, usually beef and is served with chimichurri, a blend of minced herbs and garlic. We have a particular fondness for empanadas, the Argentine version of a sandwich. These are pastry pockets stuffed with ground or shredded meat. We’ve also had them stuffed with potatoes, peas and onions and some with cheese and potatoes. The Italian influence is ubiquitous in the dishes served in restaurants. Pizza, ravioli with different fillings, spaghetti and many meat dishes served with pasta are on most menus. And there’s one thing you and your sweet tooth can’t avoid, dulce de leche. This sweet gooey caramel sauce is everywhere. It’s on deserts, in all sorts of pastries, a topping for ice cream or just spread on a piece of bread and eaten straight from the jar. Buenos Aires has no shortage of restaurants, local cafes, and small neighborhood bars. A most curious food tradition is drinking mate. The herb yerba mate is infused in hot water like a tea and drunk from a small cup or gourd through a metal straw. It’s supposed to be healthy if not a bit bitter. Local foods prepared with the combination of influences on dishes make Buenos Aires a top foodie destination.

11. California Central Coast

Everyone knows California for its mild, temperate climate, which yields some of the most amazing wines in the world. But few know these wines are produced in regions other than the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. We traveled the Golden State on a 10-day road trip from the San Francisco Bay area to southern California, and our California road trip itinerary included stops at some of the most interesting and creative wineries we’ve had the pleasure to try. In the northernmost Livermore Valley outside San Francisco, the wines they’re producing including crisp Sauvingnon Blancs, Cabernets, and Chardonnays which grows very well because of the variety of elevations and exposures the Valley has. I’m sorry to say I’m not a big Merlot fan — a point made even finer in the movie Sideways — but he made a good point. And although, sadly, the movie likely had something to do with sales of Merlot tanking after the movie was released, many believe it also forced winemakers to up their game and become more creative with how they crafted their Merlot. I agree. The Merlot I had at Retzlaff Vineyard is one I will remember fondly, it was that impressive. Further south in the Central Valley, the wines being produced in the Santa Maria Valley are simply beyond what you might imagine. Vineyards here benefit from the longest growing season in California. Bordered by the transverse mountains known as the San Rafael range which run east to west, their unique geography also lends to a quality of wine that we never expected, but thoroughly enjoyed! The red wines at Presqu’ile Winery are crafted in the style of French Burgundys and were among our favorite in Santa Maria.

12. Slovenia

The country of Slovenia is so small, which is why — like the country of Jamaica above — we’ve listed the entire country rather than a big city within it. Slovenia has never been thought of as a foodie destination, but that’s changing. After the break up of the former Communist Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, the country continues to rebuild infrastructure and hone their regional culinary resources. Today food is coming into its own thanks to several factors: the abundance of natural resources, the initiative and creativity of local chefs, and their recognition that a wealth of organic foods are at their doorstep without the need for recreating, or rebranding, the wheel. Slovenia is one of the greenest countries in the world, with soil and climate that’s ideal for growing and producing, so fresh and organic ingredients yields in abundance, as do grain and cereal crops for staples like breads and dumplings. Livestock is raised for meat, milk, cream, and eggs, to make cheese and other specialty Slovenian dishes like štrukli and frika, a lightly-fried omelette. And sustainable conservation efforts are strengthening local species of fish like the marbled trout, and deer for venison. Through efforts like these, and a driving desire to showcase the natural foods of Slovenia, local chefs like Ana Roš of restaurant Hiša Franko in the Soča Valley and others are positioning Slovenia to be a real culinary power house. Have you been to Slovenia, or tried Slovenian food? It’s exciting to watch, but even more fun to go for a visit and eat the food

13. Barcelona

It would take a month of Sundays and then some to fully experience the food scene in Barcelona. What better place to start than at a tapas bar. Every tapas bar and even many restaurants serve bomba, a ball of mashed potatoes filled with ground meat then deep fried (think Italian arancini but with potato). It’s served hot with a tomato sauce with paprika and garlic aioli. We find you can’t miss in tapas bars. In some tapas bars, Manchego cheese, a hard semi-sharp cheese made from sheep’s milk, is sliced and placed in a jar then covered with olive oil. If you get lucky, you might get the last slice at the bottom that’s been in the oil the longest. Ham is hugely popular and hugely expensive. Serrano ham is similar to Italian prosciutto but with less fat making it a bit drier when sliced. The king, however, is Iberico ham. This specialty is made from pigs that eat only acorns from oak trees. Aged for three years this ham has a distinct taste with fat that literally melts in your mouth. But be prepared, Iberico ham is the most expensive ham in the world with one kilo costing over €30 ($34 USD) and a whole ham €500 - €800 ($560 - $900 USD). There’s something for everybody and it’s all delicious. Seafood is huge in Barcelona and that’s a good thing because you may just have the best paella you’ve ever had. There’s also the Barcelona favorite, fideuà, which is paella with noodles instead of the traditional rice. Visit a local market and you’ll see all sorts of fish and delicacies from the sea that are on local menus. Fried squid is a big favorite as is suquet de peix, a seafood and potato stew made with whatever fishes are in season. This is real home style cooking but can be had in most restaurants. During the cooler months Escudella d’Olla, a hearty stew with lots of meat or different sausages, veggies and sometimes pasta is served. Make no mistake, this is a belly filler. In the warmer season you’ll find Esqueixada, a salad made with salted cod (bacaloa), peppers, onions, tomatoes, and olives. It’s a lot like a ceviche, light and delicious. A simple dish that is found everywhere in the city is pa amb tomàquet, a slice of toasted crusty bread, sometimes first rubbed with a garlic clove, with fresh tomatoes and olive oil. Lighter than French brulée but every bit as creamy and yummy is Crema Catalana, a favorite dessert. Need something to wash it all down? There is an abundance of excellent wines and a thriving craft beer scene all across Barcelona.

14. New York City

If you’ve never been to The Big Apple before, suffice it to say that all you’ve heard about NYC is true. Whatever you’ve heard, good, bad, or otherwise — is true. In the interest of full disclosure, NYC is my “city”, the one I grew up near, and have the fondest of memories of. The one that represents my urban heart. And it is the beating heart of the US in so many ways, the one city that defies explanation or description. Truly, one must see it — experience it. From a foodie standpoint, there are few other places in the United States with the variety of cultural influence you’ll find here. Yes, as Americans we know that we’re still in our infancy at just two or three hundred years of age, but those years have lovingly simmered the melting pot of flavors that the country was founded on. And it seems it’s just coming to a boil! For foodies, where do you begin? A food tour is always a good starting point! We recently took a tasting food tour with Urban Adventures which highlighted the early history of the city’s immigrant neighborhoods and how it relates to the local food — a perfect tour if you love finding the connections between local culture and food. It used to be that you could choose your meal according to what part of town you’re in — for good Italian head to Little Italy, for kim chee head to Koreatown, but even those lines are blurring. While there are some things you can still count on like good dumplings and knish on the Lower East Side, there is so much more. So what are our favorites? Peasant in Nolita for rustic Italian, db Bistro Moderne in Midtown, Tavola on 9th Avenue, the noodle kugel at The Broadway Diner, pastrami on rye (with pickles and slaw) at Katz’s Deli downtown. Two of our recent favorites, Kung Fu Kitchen and Mercato Trattoria are close to Midtown and definitely worth a visit. If you only have two days in New York City, these are where you want to eat!

Pastrami on Rye, Katz’s Deli, NYC

15. Rovinj

On Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula sits the absolutely charming seaside city of Rovinj. Walk the streets of the old town area and you’ll find shops and markets selling fresh produce, truffles, olive oil and wine. Walk along the picturesque harbor with both pleasure and working boats and you’ll find restaurants and cafes. Make no mistake. In Rovinj, seafood rules. The Venetians ruled here for centuries and you might just think and feel like you’re in Venice! The Venetian influence in the local cuisine is apparent in the Rovinj restaurants and in local street food. You’ll find calamari, sardines, prawns, and anything else that makes up the catch of the day on menus everywhere. But don’t think that that’s all there is. If you’re not a fan of seafood, you’ll find high quality beef and pork from Croatia’s agricultural tradition. We were impressed with the local olive oil and and the number of dishes using truffles. The aroma is ever present in the air. The Croatian wines we tried were quite good and there are many to try. Tasting new wines is always fun and one of our favorite things to do in Rovinj. What about dessert you ask? There are gelato and pastry shops scattered throughout old town. We love the cafe culture here along with the laid back atmosphere. It’s great place to relax and enjoy the excellent food and wine.

Spaghetti with baby clams and shrimp, Rovinj, Croatia

16. Santiago

The fifth largest city in South America with a population close to 7 million people, Santiago is indeed a very big city. There is a center city metropolitan area with excellent restaurants and bars and then there are the districts, each with its own distinct personality. Throw in the markets with street vendors serving traditional style foods and your choices can be overwhelming. Chile is the second longest country in the world, with as many varied landscapes and climates as you can imagine. In the far north of the country is the Atacama Desert with a dry, arid Altiplano environment more similar to Peru than Patagonia. The desert yields grassy foods like quinoa and other grains that can thrive in the harsh desert climate. In the south lies Patagonia, known for the wilderness landscape and cold Antarctic waters. Diets there are rich in heavy seafood, kelp, and meats like the popular Patagonian lamb, roasted on the cross spit. It’s one of Chile’s most traditional foods. And in between the desert and Patagonia is the Central Valley and the country’s capital city of Santiago, fertile land that is known for their famous Chilean wines. The moist sea air rolls in and turns to rainfall as it gets trapped against the high Andes mountain range. It has the perfect climate and conditions for growing grapes. It’s amazing how geography influences terroir and how excited wine lovers get when we see just the right conditions for making wine. Which is exactly why you need to visit Santiago, Chile, and soon. Is it any wonder Santiago is such an amazing wine and food destination?

17. Lima

Peru is certainly known for its Aztec cities, the ancient fortress of Machu Picchu, and the colorful Quechua culture of its many indigenous people. But when it comes to the food, I’m always surprised that the only thing travelers seem to remember is that they eat cuy (guinea pig). They also eat alpaca, and in the high Altiplano and desert areas where the landscape is harsh and meat is hard to come by, high-protein quinoa is a staple. Alpaca is very good, and very lean, but you’ll rarely see Americans dining in Peru on Alpaca — because they’re too cute. Peru in fact has a tremendously diverse array of foods to offer, but on the coast in the capital of Lima, fish is on the menu in a big way. Specifically, seafood. So it’s no surprise that the national dish of Peru is ceviche. And one of our favorite places to have it is in Lima at La Mar, owned by famed Peruvian Chef Gaston Acurio. Go if you can, and if you can’t get in for dinner, go for lunch. Yum!

Ceviche in Lima

18. Bali

Let me preface this by saying that I absolutely love Bali. Like many people, I feel the special something that draws people to to this Indonesian island country. It’s a spiritual place, one of Hindu devotion and a beauty that’s hard to define. I thought I would also love the food of Bali, too, but I was wrong. My love of southeast Asian cuisine tricked me into thinking the cuisine of Bali would be similar, even just a little. But my palate wasn’t ready for some of the unique flavors in Balinese cooking. Ingredients I wasn’t at all familiar with. But — and this is a big but — I fell in love with Balinese breakfast foods from the start. Breakfast in Bali is like warm comfort food disguised as breakfast. The flavors are warm and unique. Popular items like Bubar Ayam which tastes like a big bowl of warm chicken soup (with a crispy piece of puffed chicken skin like the cherry on top) is my favorite. Or is it their banana crepes with honey drizzled over? It’s hard to decide. But that’s not important. What is important is that you go and see for yourself. And see if you’re finally convinced that breakfast is the most important — and welcoming — meal of the day!

19. Ho Chi Minh City

Formerly know as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City was so named in 1975 after being captured by North Vietnamese forces during the war with the United States. Even so, you’ll hear locals still referring to the city as Saigon. Since the dust has settled, the city has become a modern metropolis welcoming visitors to enjoy its culture and food. Vietnam has a traditional farm to table culture which is still reflected in its most popular dishes. We love Southeast Asian cuisine and will have to restrict this article to just some of our favorites although if you visit you’ll find a diversity of specialties from the other regions of the country. One of the most popular dishes is a soup known as Pho. This comes in a large bowl filled with rice noodles, your choice of a cut of meat, bean sprouts, green onion, and traditional herbs like basil or mint. Add hot sauce or fish sauce and a squeeze of lime and you’re all set. Etiquette may not be something you need to worry about, but if you want to eat like a local, chopsticks go in your right hand and the soup spoon in your left at the same time. If you don’t want soup have Banh mi. This sandwich is like a hoagie or sub and can be found everywhere. A piece of baguette is stuffed with your choice of meat which is covered in picked vegetables, cilantro and hot peppers. There are hundreds of variations served around the city and they’re all good and everyone has their favorite. Spring rolls are light and fun to eat. Vermicelli with slices of pork, we prefer shrimp, with basil and lettuce is all wrapped tightly in rice paper. They’re served at room temperature with some crushed peanuts and dipped in a variety of sauces. In what seems to be a variation of this theme is rice vermicelli served in a deep dish with grilled pork or beef or any other cuts of meat on the menu. You get a plate on the side that has basil, bean sprouts, hot chillies, lettuce, maybe some daikon, and peanuts. Add however much of these you like to your dish along with some nuoc cham sauce (lime, fish sauce, rice vinegar, garlic, a little sugar and a sprinkle of red pepper flakes) that comes in a small bowl. This is just the tip of the iceberg and most all of these can be found as street food. Just be prepared to sit in kid sized plastic chairs at an equally small table.

Tea-infused duck eggs in Vietnam

]]>Why Travel for Food (and Wine)? 19 Unique Destinations Around the World Have The AnswerSweet As a Peach: The Small Towns of Old Ninety Six on South Carolina’s Freshwater CoastUSATravel GuidesLori SorrentinoMon, 12 Aug 2019 15:09:42 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/ninety-six-sc-old-96-south-carolina53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d2deadab9a6100001dc8f30The next time you visit South Carolina, head west toward historic Ninety
Six SC in the Old 96 Historic District. On the state’s freshwater coast,
Old 96 is rich in outdoor adventure, history, fun festivals, and charming
small towns!

South Carolina peaches

The Palmetto State of South Carolina gets a lot of love from tourists — golfers flock to Myrtle Beach and the lowcountry of Hilton Head, and of course the city of Charleston is the quintessential southern city. These are all fun places to visit. But the next time you plan your South Carolina itinerary, head in the other direction — west toward South Carolina’s freshwater coast and the district around historic Ninety Six, SC. You may not be familiar with this historic district and chain of freshwater lakes unless you hail from SC, Georgia or you’re a Revolutionary War history buff. But there are so many other reasons to consider a visit to the Old 96!

Anglers may be familiar with South Carolina’s freshwater coast, so named for the string of Army Corp of Engineers’ lakes created in the 1920’s and 30’s along the western South Carolina/Georgia border that fan out along the Savannah River like expansive craggy fingers. The lakes are renowned for their excellent fishing for species like striped and largemouth bass, crappie, catfish, bream and bluegill. It’s truly an anglers’ paradise. But South Carolina’s rich history is a big draw too — the Revolutionary War, Civil War, and Civil Rights era history can be found in museums and historic sites dedicated to telling these stories. And of course, the most interesting places along the Old 96 District are the charming small towns where locals welcome you with a smile, a great meal, fresh peaches, and a genuine desire to get to know you and your story.

Where is the Old 96 (Ninety Six SC) Historic District?

The Old 96 Historic District is located in the northwestern part of South Carolina, between Augusta, GA and Spartanburg, SC, a rural landscape dense with woodlands, wetlands, peach trees, historic sites and charming small towns just begging to be explored. Towns with Mayberry-sounding names like Greenwood, Abbeville, Edgefield, and McCormick. Orromantic names like Promised Land and Calhoun Falls. The namesake village that’s actually a number spelled out, Ninety Six, isa US National Historic Site known as Old Ninety Six or Star Fort. Prior to visiting Old 96 and the nearby Olde English District outside Charlotte, my only travels to South Carolina was for a wedding in Hilton Head, and driving I-95 back and forth between up north and Florida. My husband had a Marine buddy from Due West, another small town in South Carolina that was more of a directional landmark than a town (“go Due West, young man!”) How funny to learn it too was located in Old 96, land of sweet small towns with interesting names!

Then there’s the big question…

Why is it Called Ninety Six?

South Carolina history

During the American Revolution, the second attempt by the British to conquer the South in 1781 resulted in what’s now known as The Siege of Ninety Six. The small hamlet of Ninety Six was garrisoned by 550 American loyalists (those who remained loyal to England) who built a unique star-shaped fort to protect against the American patriots and militia who layed siege to the Fort that lasted nearly a month. But more on this later.

Why again was it called Ninety Six? There may be several explanations, though the Park Ranger was honest and told us there’s no definitive reason forhow Ninety Six got its name. There is historic evidence that in 1730 the Surveyor General made a map that marked the area as Ninety Six, referring to this area believed to be 96 miles from the lower Cherokee Indian town of Keowee (near where Clemson, South Carolina is today). One romanticized legend revolves around an Indian woman (don’t these legends always refer to them as maidens?) named Cateechee who supposedly learned of an Indian attack and rode to warn her British beau. As she traveled she named the streams & found her boyfriend at a trading post at the 96th stream. Hmm…not sure about that — most people in a panic would probably lose count after the first few — but it’s a nice story just the same!

Things to See and Do in the Old 96 District

The Food! — Sure, South Carolina does BBQ and southern comfort food really well. But the pizza and Greek I had were off the charts good too, so check out these places in Greenwood and Abbeville below.

Fish Your Heart Out — on Lake Greenwood or along the Saluda River

Inspiring History — From inspiring African-American and Civil Rights history at the Benjamin E. Mays Historical Preservation Site to Revolutionary War history, South Carolina has so many stories to tell.

Vibrant Arts Scene —Whether you love local art, theater, performing arts, or the rustic stoneware unique to Edgefield, the Old 96 District has something for lovers of art and culture.

Outdoor Adventure — Learn about conservation and preservation efforts of America’s wild turkey, then get out and explore the abundant nature opportunities here, from canoeing and kayaking, to cycling, hiking, and camping

PEACHES — Cobbler, crisp, pie, or right off the pit, these South Carolina peaches were huge and juicy. SC produces more peaches than Georgia (the most in the USA outside of California), and 60% of those are grown right here in the Old 96 District. That’s a lotta peaches!

Family Fun — There is so much for families to enjoy in the Old 96 District, and Emerald Farm is a great place to start!

Small Town Charm — You’ll find so many quaint small towns in the Old 96 District — perfect if you love slow travel — but here are some of our new favorites!

Edgefield

Stepping out of the car in the town of Edgefield is like stepping back in time to a black and white town, the anti-Wizard of Oz dream sequence where everything including the yellow brick road turns from black and white to color. Here in Edgefield, the Mayberry-nostalgic feel belies the color and charm you’ll find like the music playing in the town square (did they know we were coming or what!) and folks on the street asking us where y’all from? It’s a warm, lively, and friendly place for sure, with oversized painted turkeys on just about every corner to honor the town, their traditions, and nearby Alma Maters like Clemson University.

South Carolina is known for having three unique folk-art traditions: sweetgrass basketry, Catawba pottery like we saw in the Olde English District, and Edgefield pottery. If you love local art and pottery, your first stop in town should be the well-known Old Edgefield Pottery, where local artist and master potter Justin Guy creates works of art in the centuries old tradition. For more than 200 years, the Edgefield area of South Carolina has been known for producing a unique type of pottery called "stoneware." Strong and non-porous, stoneware is usually glazed and fired in a kiln at very high temperatures. Justin uses a blend of blue clay from Savannah, Kaolin clay from China, and the iron rich clay from Edgefield area. Visit his studio and museum and see if you can tell the difference between his original work and the antique pots he has on display.

Back on the square and right on the corner, stop for lunch at the Park Row Market No. 1, which looks like an old general store inside. They make a very good panini! Several other restaurants in town get high marks like Nonna’s Italian Kitchen, Chef Bob’s Cafe, Patriots’ Smokehouse, and The Old Edgefield Grill, though some are just open for dinner. Also on the square is a place for beer, wine, & spirits lovers — the Carolina Moon Distillery — a fun place to try locally distilled rum, vodka, gin, and moonshine. And since you’re in the land of peaches, you know what that means — peach moonshine (reminds me of my days with Moonshiner Chuck Miller in his test kitchen). But that’s not all that’s peachy. Their light and flavorful Peach Rum is fantastic! They also produce an aged whiskey (moonshine aged in bourbon barrels) and a 192-proof single barrel aged bourbon that’s super smooth. More than several tastings later (and bottles purchased), we left with a spring in our step.

Just down the road from the town of Edgefield is the National Wild Turkey Federation — no, not Wild Turkey as in our distillery tasting above, sorry. Rather, this non-profit organization is the world headquarters for the conservation of the American wild turkey. This isn’t just an interesting place to visit, we think there’s an educational value that’s even better. You’ll learn all you ever needed to know about the beautiful, if awkward, turkeys native to North America. But more importantly, the NWTF is also dedicated to the preservation of America’s hunting heritage — a heritage that in my opinion is getting somewhat muddled among all the political misinformation of our day. Their mission isn’t about guns (for or against), nor are they making a political statement. They help restore and manage North America's population of more than 7 million wild turkeys, improve habitat on public, private and corporate lands, and help people learn to understand the importance of wildlife management and appreciate hunting as an honorable pursuit. If you’re a hunter or looking to learn more about it, take a self-guided stroll through the museum or wait for a guided tour. They’re only open during the week, so call ahead to plan your visit.

When you’re done exploring for the afternoon, stop at Cook’s Farm Stand on your way out of town for a basket of the juiciest local produce around. Summertime is peach season, and these ginormous peaches were so sweet and delicious! They also sell homemade jams, jellies, and other locally grown farm produce.

Greenwood

Greenwood is the largest town in the Old 96 District, with so much history, art, and culture to explore. You’ll never be at a loss for great restaurants and if you time your visit around one of their many seasonal festivals, you can try even more of the great food all in one place. We happened to visit during their award-winning Festival of Discovery — BBQ & Blues — when the town of Greenwood closes its streets and makes way for food vendors, live music performances, and one of the biggest Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS) sanctioned competitive cook-offs in the country! Holy cow, if you love BBQ… well, then I’m sure you already know about Greenwood. But if you’ve never been here, your piggy is waiting! And you must go :-). I can’t remember having as much fun, and it didn’t hurt that we were asked to help judge a portion of the food competition too. Yum!

Where else should you eat in Greenwood if you’re not here during the BBQ & Blues festival? The Mill House Brick Oven Pizza (and Good Times Brewing) is a great place for pizza and beer. The menu offers pizza, sandwiches, pastas, salads, and wraps, but their individual Margherita and Fungus Amungus pizzas were insane — and their craft beer is really good.

Greenwood has a thriving farm-to-table scene with places like the Uptown Market offering seasonal produce and a chance to talk with the local farmers and producers about their farm-fresh businesses. You’ll also find some pretty cool shopping in downtown Greenwood at the Vintage Vault Marketplace, Fig, and Main & Maxwell for really cool hand-crafted art, pottery, and jewelry

If it’s family fun you’re looking for, pack up the kiddos and head to Emerald Farm outside of town, a working dairy farm that offers a chance to step back into the basics of farm life. Owners Paul and Kathy Zahn have crafted a menagerie of sheep, llamas, ducks, cows, peacocks, geese, chickens and honey bees, along with other fun activities on their 75 acres of beautiful rolling pasture. The animals include a herd of 14 white Saanen goats who love to be fed and reward her mightily with the milk she needs to craft her luxurious goat’s milk soap — the lemongrass soap not only smells great, but is magic for your skin!. Her soap-making studio has dozens of batches in various stages of progress and she even creates signature soaps for special events. In several other outbuildings around the property, you can browse through an authentically vintage store and find treasures that haven’t been seen for 60 years. Upstairs is another treasure altogether at the Emerald Farm Railroad, the area’s largest layout of O & HO-gauge model trains — an entire room set up like it was Christmas. Outside, you can channel your inner Trainiac with a ride on their Emerald Farm Express which runs around the Farm and through the large sheltering oak trees and fruit trees. It’s a great place for kids, and open Tuesday through Saturday.

One of the places in Greenwood I was so inspired by was the Benjamin E. Mays Historic Site, and if you’ve never heard of the extraordinary life of Dr. Benjamin Elijah Mays, sadly you’re not alone. Neither did I. But after briefly hearing Dr. Mays’ story (we spent an hour but could have stayed much longer) beautifully told by Chris Thomas, Director of the Historical Site, I want to find out more. Dr. Mays was the son of ex-slaves and tenant farmers in this part of South Carolina. From seemingly impossible beginnings, he grew to become — among many lifetime achievements — President of Morehouse College in Atlanta, advisor to three sitting US Presidents (Kennedy, Johnson, and Carter), and spiritual advisor to Dr. Martin Luther King. The influence Dr. Mays had on the Civil Rights era is unparalleled. Today, not only can you visit the historical site honoring Dr. Mays, but his birth home is also there, which sets the stage well. The site has been established on the campus of GLEAMNS (Greenwood, Laurens, Edgefield, Abbeville, McCormick, Newberry and Saluda) Human Resources Commission which is located in the old African-American Brewer Hospital before desegregation.

Ninety Six

The Ninety Six National Historic Site is a compelling visit for Revolutionary War enthusiasts, and even if you’re not. What remains from the original Star-shaped Fort at Ninety Six is on display for you to explore at your leisure or on a guided tour. Start at the Visitor Center for info, maps, and to watch the short 20 minute video about the site. The Park offers a variety of trails, including a 1-mile walking tour where you’ll see earthworks, historic roads, a reconstructed stockade, sites of the 1781 siege and battle, and site of the Ninety Six village. NOTE: Please do not climb or walk on the fragile remains and earthworks. Please stick to the walkways and follow the interpretive trail.

Abbeville

The town of Abbeville is another great town to explore — with a pretty village green surrounded on four sides by fun shops, restaurants, a distillery, historic monuments, and a lovingly-restored Opera House that is bustling with activity, especially when it’s showing films like the day we visited. That little Opera House looked like a real community gem! Just one block from the town square is the beautiful and historic Trinity Church which looks to be close to finishing renovation. Isn’t it amazing? We stopped for lunch at The Village Grill, an Abbeville favorite for 28 years, and I can see why. The service was so friendly, it almost seemed part of the afternoon’s entertainment, and the food was delicious. My Greek salad was delicious and I must say a nice break from all the BBQ piggy I’d been eating! We stopped by several cute little shops selling everything from hand-crafted organic soaps and cosmetics, to home decor, and the cutest women’s clothing store and antique emporium where I was almost tempted to buy myself a Hey y’All hat — Come on, who says a damn Yankee can’t have a little fun too! This is such a cute town, I can see Abbeville being a lot of fun for a Girlfriends Getaway!

We write a good deal about slow travel — experiencing more when you travel by actually slowing down and spending more time in one place. Whether you visit small towns around the country or around the world, there’s really no other way to experience them — these places beg you to slow your pace and get to know the history, the local culture (and of course, the food), and the folks who live there. Slow traveling allows you to make connections that stay with you long after you’re home, and this part of South Carolina was perfect for that. Small towns are unique and interesting places, with stories that come alive when told by the people who’ve not only lived them but are passionate about telling them.

So go explore small town America, and when you’re near the Old 96 — or Ninety Six — slow down and spend more time!

Where to Stay in the Old 96 District

Inn on the Square, Greenwood

Since it opened in 2015, the Inn on the Square has offered southern hospitality and boutique lodging in the heart of Greenwood in an elegantly designed historical building. The original buildings of the Inn on the Square date back to the early part of the twentieth century when it was a two-story building, an adjoining one-story structure, and a small alley dividing the two. After extensive renovation, today the hotel features 48 rooms, a beautiful open atrium to the upper floors, and space for special events. I stayed in one of their King bridal rooms (this time, without my groom of 34 years!) which was spacious and comfortable. The enormous bathroom had an amazing surround shower with a river-rock floor, dual sinks, and a giant jacuzzi tub (where is a husband when you need one?)! There was even a pull out bed — great for small families. The complimentary cooked-to-order hot breakfast every morning was delicious and much appreciated. But if you go on a weekend, stay for their Sunday Brunch. It was incredible. I’ll let the photos do the talking, while I sit and remember the several trips I made finding more deliciousness with every trip!

]]>Sweet As a Peach: The Small Towns of Old Ninety Six on South Carolina’s Freshwater CoastBeyond the Charm (and Sweet Tea): Surprising Finds in the Olde English District of South CarolinaUSATravel GuidesLori SorrentinoMon, 29 Jul 2019 12:26:58 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/small-towns-olde-english-district-south-carolina53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d2ddd3b6c5d540001daea11See South Carolina through new eyes in the Olde English District between
Charlotte and Columbia. Charming small towns have tons of fun things to do
and fresh new businesses, breweries, eateries, distilleries, and boutique
shopping is perfect for girlfriend getaways, romantic stays, or fun family
vacations!

Good beer at Legal Remedy Brewing? Yes, please!

The old adage “It’s the journey, not the destination” is never more true than when you visit America’s charming small towns. From Maine to Florida, California to the Carolinas, the quiet backroads lead to some great adventures. Every state in the Union has them, though travelers often overlook them in favor of larger, well-known destinations. Sure it’s great to see The Big Apple or The Big Easy, places so ripe with urban legend and anecdotes no one really knows the origin of their nicknames. There, you’ll find the usual Things You Must See & Do like waiting hours in line for tickets to the best attractions, or finding the most Instagramable spots alongside thousands of your new BFFs. The people watching can be fun with all the chaos and crowds, but how much of the real destination do you see?

Cliché as it may sound, it’s only when you get off the beaten path highways that you’ll find the authentic feel of a place. That’s the essence of slow travel — experiencing more by slowing down. If you’re looking for more of this in your travels, we have some new routes for you in the Old English District of South Carolina. Made up of 7 counties in the north central area of the Palmetto State, this historic stretch between Charlotte, North Carolina and Columbia, South Carolina is so named for the region’s early settlement by the English in the mid 1770s. There are enough unique things to do in the Olde English District for you and your family — charming small towns where fresh new businesses mingle with nostalgic mainstays like peas and carrots — perfect for girlfriend getaways, romantic stays, or fun family vacays. There’s Revolutionary War history, the hottest pepper sauce in the world (Guinness says so!), dining at excellent restaurants, eating lots of peaches and strawberries, and drinking some really good beer!

Sure you’ll find some kitschy claims to fame, like the tallest tree in the county or the oldest this or that. But the real fun is sitting next to a local at the diner who tells you about the hidden places only they know about. Or running into the Mayor in the town square who asks you where you’re from when he sees you taking pictures. These are the connections you’ll come away with when you visit the small towns along the Olde English District — where historic sites reveal the past, family farms still flourish, and there are some honest to goodness hidden gems that’ll completely surprise you.

Things to Do in the Olde English District

Driving I-77 from Charlotte, North Carolina south to Columbia, South Carolina will take you about an hour and a half. But get off the highway and you can explore for days. This is where you’ll find these quaint small towns with woodlands, fresh waterways, state and national parks, vibrant art scenes, camping, hiking, fishing, antiquing, shopping, and the largest collection of Native American Catawba Tribe pottery in the world. We’ve driven through South Carolina countless times on our way back north to visit our families, and have come to love the coastal climate of the Lowcountry. And of course Charleston has been on our list for some time. But this was our first visit to upcountry South Carolina before we moved west to the Old 96, and it won’t be our last! Here are just 7 of the small towns we visited recently in the Olde English District, but there’s many more.

Olde English District of South Carolina
Summer road trip through the Olde English District

Fort Mill

One of your first stops in the Olde English Historic District should be Fort Mill, formerly a thriving textile mill town that predominated the South from the late nineteenth century through most of the twentieth century. Fort Mills was home to Springmaid Cotton Mills and a visit to the Fort Mill History Museum will set the stage and introduce you to the colorful movers and shakers who’ve been influential in the town for over 500 years. I loved learning about the history of the Springs Textiles Industry and Springmaid Fabrics, especially their advertising in the conservative 1940s and 50s. In 1951 Colonel Elliot White Springs hired famed burlesque stripteaser Gypsy Rose Lee to promote the company’s fabrics and linens. She was his official “Vice President in Charge of Unveiling” at the new train depot opening in the nearby town of Lancaster where he owned 29 miles of railway on the Lancaster and Chester lines. Then, much to the townspeople’s chagrin, her likeness helped make Springmaid Fabrics a household name when she starred in some pretty racy advertisements over the years! All this makes for some interesting viewing at the museum, which is open Wednesday through Saturday. Knowledgable docents like Rudy will share their wealth of local history with a good dose of humor. History tours are their specialty and the months of October and December are especially fun when they host their Lanterns and Legends walking tours and Historic Homes tour, respectively.

Just steps from the museum, you’ll find another entrepreneur lighting the town on fire. Ed Currie started growing hot chili peppers ten years ago and his green thumb experiments with the beneficial properties of capsaicin (the stuff in peppers that makes your tongue burn) resulted in his first Guinness World Record in 2014! That success was quickly followed up in 2017 where he won again for the hottest single chili pepper on record with an average rate of 1,641,183 (SHU) Scoville Heat Units. Today his award-winning PuckerButt Pepper Company sources and grows 200,000 certified organic pepper plants in Fort Mill, with most of their sales online and through partnerships with Whole Foods, Campbell Foods, and Amazon. If you love hot sauces like I do, you have to taste the one that started it all — the Carolina Reaper. It’s tasty, but it’ll stay with you, I can tell you that!

Where to Eat & Drink in Fort Mill

The elegant Southern Sugar Bistro Bar is equal parts coffeehouse and wine bar cafe, with a tempting dinner menu to boot. We stopped in for coffee and a pastry, and I wish we had more time to come back for dinner (well, dessert mainly because their Woodford Reserve Bourbon Bread Pudding sounded amazing!) Housed in a multi-level historic building, it’s seriously one of the prettiest spots in town — modern but distinctly southern-styled.

Just across the street, there are several great places to eat and drink. The Improper Pig has the tastiest Asian- and Latin-inspired piggy, all hand-smoked and seasoned. The food mixes well in the modern vintage decor with original painted advertisements on the exposed antique brick wall. For the perfect accompaniment to your BBQ, Amor Artis Brewing Company right next door is making some fantastic artisan-crafted brews. As their name suggests, the love craft was evident in the several brews we tried. Co-founders and brothers Travis Tolson and Steve Tolson are native sons to Fort Mill and a quintessential home brew success story, honing their crafting skills and building their reputation around the country before settling back into their hometown with their own brewery in 2016. You can enjoy some cold ones here and order food from next door at The Improper Pig.

Both the Improper Pig and Amor Artis are located in what used to be the old movie house in Fort Mill, and the walls bear much of the history from back then, including the Projector room upstairs. Our friend Rudy from the History Museum showed us what used to be the entrance to the segregated African-American level in the theater. The wall still bears the graffiti written by his Great Aunt back in the day.

>>> YoCo Brew Trail

If you love craft brews and ciders, the award-winning YoCo Brew Trail (York County) is definitely one of the fun things to do in the Olde English District. First, download the Visit York County SC app which contains your brew trail “Passport”. With 6 breweries and a cidery on the Trail, you’ll score a “I Drank My Way Through York County” if you visit 5 out of 7 stops. We visited 2 of the 7 stops (Amor Artis and Legal Remedy) so we’ll definitely have to come back for the t-shirt!

Rock Hill

Like Fort Mill, Rock Hill is a booming bedroom community of Charlotte, and a charming place to visit. Rock Hill is the largest city in York County, and the fifth-largest city in the state. Outdoor lovers will enjoy the miles of trails through the woods, wetlands, and along the bank of the Catawba River at River Park, with plenty of native plant species and wildlife in over 70 acres of forested landscape, picnic areas and a canoe/kayak launch. Rock Hill is also an amazing place to eat. And so we did.

Where to Eat & Drink in Rock Hill

When you’re in town for breakfast, be sure and check out Amélie’s French Bakery, housed in a former bank building on east Main Street. Known for their French pâtisserie, I opted for one of their Tartines — the Fig, Bacon & Brie — and I’m still dreaming about it! You must go.

Where’s the good beer place in Rock Hill? At Legal Remedy Brewing, and bonus — the food is good too! In 2009, as their story goes, “a lawyer, a landscape architect, two bankers and a computer guy figured beer was a worthwhile use of time”, and the rest is delicious history. Theirs was the first brewery to open in York County, and today it’s one of the most popular spots in town. We loved their beer, especially the Pro Bono (a balanced and full-bodied coffee blast) which paired really well with our Southern Poutine — french fries topped with melted pimento cheese, bacon, and pepper jelly! Off the charts decadent and delicious! We applaud their efforts to be green and sustainable (30% of their power is solar) and can’t wait to check out their 2nd location in 2020 at Riverwalk.

If your dinner plans call for a relaxing vibe and gorgeous views, The Pump House in Rock Hill is your place. Overlooking the scenic Catawba River, this former industrial pump house turned tablecloth restaurant serves Southern-inspired American cuisine. Their craft cocktails are notable as are the 12 craft beers from South and North Carolina, but their food is creative and fresh. The rooftop deck has the best views — one floor up from the restaurant — with live music to make the night last a little longer.

Winnsboro

Get your cameras ready — this is one of those iconic Biggest/Smallest/Best places along the Old English Historic District. In this case, the showpiece is the Winnsboro Town Clock in the center of downtown, the longest continually operating clock in the United States since 1837! Don’t you just love these slices of Americana?

Street art in Winnsboro, South Carolina
Winnsboro's Town Clock is the oldest continually operating clock in the US

Just outside of town is the South Carolina Railroad Museum — a must-visit for train enthusiasts and families with kids. The mission of the museum, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is to preserve and interpret railroading in South Carolina. You’ll see various types of freight and passenger rail cars, a steam locomotive #44 which once belonged to the Hampton and Branchville Railroad, cabooses, freight cars, and diesel engines from CSX, Norfolk Southern, the Lancaster and Chester, and other railroads. But the real fun begins when you step onboard! Their trains run every Saturday, departing at 10:00 am and 1:30 pm, and they have several uniquely themed rides that are fun for the whole family — a Valentine Dinner train, BBQ Dinner train, the Easter Bunny Egg-spress, and even a Santa train

Where to Eat & Drink in Winnsboro

There are several good restaurants in Winnsboro serving everything from southern-style comfort food to donuts and tea! The Donut Guy and his wife own, well, The Donut Guy on Congress Street and also the restaurant next door called, what else, The Restaurant Next Door! Owners Shaun and Crystal Paulk serve up signature flavors of sweet donuts like Red Velvet, Cinnamon & Sugar, and Unicorn, and local specialties at their new southern eatery. The RND’s fried okra was the best I’ve ever had! A must-eat when you’re in Winnsboro.

Next door to the RND is the Cornwallis House Tea Company, a fun spot for a cup of hot tea or a refreshing glass of tea on ice. What’s cool about this place is the passion they have for carefully sourcing and selecting only the finest hand-crafted teas from the East, and carefully blending their own loose tea. And you must try one of their homemade desserts. I mean, come on…how incredible do these look? They tasted even better!

Ridgeway

The tiny town of Ridgeway just might be one of the most unexpected finds in your small town exploration of the Olde English District. The World’s Smallest Police Station sits just along Main Street signaling the many small charms yet to come. Across the street, stop in Ruff & Company Hardware, a Ridgeway institution for 7 generations since 1840. Owner Dan Ruff is fun to chat with as he talks about his mercantile and hardware store that still does business the old-school way — accepting phone orders on account and loading them up in the makeshift “drive-thru” off to the side when a customer pulls up and beeps. It’s a bygone way of doing business and a nostalgic deep dive — definitely worth a visit and a purchase.

Down the street is the Over The Top Boutique, with colorful and current women’s fashions. Owner Phyllis Nichols Gutierrez also coordinates much of the town’s vibrant art scene with close to 100 artists showcasing their work in her space and around town every first Friday of the month. First Fridays of Ridgeway is a popular thing to do in the Olde English Historic District for art lovers as is the annual Arts on the Ridge held the 1st weekend in May, celebrating the visual, performing and literary arts through art shows, performances, demonstrations, book signings and vendors.

On the other side of the tracks is the uber stylish Bella & Blue, a boutique designed for every generation so bring your Mom or your daughters and your wallet, because I guarantee you’ll practice some retail therapy. From the latest styles in jeans, girly tunics, and funky bags, belts, and bling, you’ll seriously want to buy the whole store!

Where to Eat & Drink in Ridgeway

A block down the street is Laura’s Tea Room, the place in town for a lunch-only, two or three course spot of tea. Formerly the town of Ridgeway’s Mercantile, the upstairs Tea Room offers three-tiered tea trays with amazing assortments of savories and sweets, while the Deli downstairs offers delicious sandwiches, soups and salads. There’s a fun Gift Shop to browse as well. Whether you’re fancied up for tea or just want a casual bite, sneak a peek upstairs at the assortment of hats, try one on and have your picture taken with the Queen!

Laura's Tea Room in Ridgeway is the perfect place to get your Olde English on!

Camden and Boykin

If you’re a history buff, add Camden, South Carolina to your list. There’s interesting Revolutionary War history through Fairfield and Kershaw Counties and the Historic Camden Revolutionary War Site is where to begin. With so many buildings, the Camden Battlefield, and the new Longleaf Pine Preserve, there’s so much to see and do here for several days. Historic Camden includes a 107+ acre outdoor museum on Broad Street, as well as 476 acres of the Camden Battlefield and Longleaf Pine Preserve located 8 miles north on Flat Rock Road. General admission to the site includes access to 104 acres, the Bradley and Drakeford Houses (log cabins with exhibits), reconstructed blacksmith shed, nature trail, fishing pond, picnic tables, restrooms, and the Cunningham House gift shop.

The Kershaw-Cornwallis Mansion is the reconstructed Georgian house of the town’s prolific founder and mayor, Joseph Kershaw. The original mansion was burned down during the Civil War but was reconstructed in the late 1970s to be a museum. Access to the Kershaw-Cornwallis House, McCaa's Tavern, and Craven House is limited to the guided tour only, offered every day except Monday.

The Camden Battlefield site and Longleaf Pine Forest and Preserve, an endangered South Carolina ecosystem, have created an exciting new tourism development partnership project with the American Battlefield Trust. Guided tours of the battlefield and preserve offer a unique glimpse into the 1780 battle. The Preserve is open to the public during daylight hours.

The Camden Archives and Museum is a fascinating place to explore the history of South Carolina’s oldest inland city (1732). From the history of Camden along the Great Wagon Path (the original I-95) and as a favorite winter tourist destination (ah, to sit on the porch of the original Kirkwood Hotel), to the Native American artifacts & genealogical records, there’s much to take in at this local county history museum. But learning about the community’s most famous resident — the Boykin Spaniel, the official dog of South Carolina and beloved AKC hunting breed — was probably my favorite part. Because, puppies!

The small town of Boykin is one of the most charming hamlets we saw on our road trip through the Olde English District. No stop lights, no traffic. But we were told their Christmas parade is not to be missed! And remember the Boykin Spaniel? Yep, that’s the same Boykin. Spend some time here toward the end of the day. The buildings are historic, you can pop in a few small stores, peek your head in the pretty Swift Creek Baptist Church if it’s open, and best of all stay for dinner at the Mill Pond Steakhouse — so worth staying for!

Where to Eat & Drink in Boykin

The Mill Pond Steakhouse in the nearby hamlet of Boykin is a must-visit. This historic venue has scenic pond views and some of the most outstanding cuisine in the Olde English Historic District. Chef Clyde Grant surely knows his way around aging and preparing a good steak — “You don’t want to handle the meat, but you do want to wake it up!” — and that’s just the beginning. Service is excellent as is the impressive wine list, the family-style sides, and the cobbler served tableside à la mode.

Lancaster

At one time, at least 29 distinct tribes of Native Americans lived in South Carolina. Today, the Catawba Tribe is the only federally recognized tribe with the State of South Carolina recognizing an additional 9 tribes. That so much history and culture was lost from our country’s native culture is staggering. But you can see an impressive piece of this American history at the Lancaster County Native American Studies Center. A division of University of South Carolina (USC) Lancaster, this comprehensive center was established in 2012 for the study of South Carolina’s Native American peoples, histories, and cultures. Here, visitors can “view the single largest collection of Catawba Indian pottery in existence, study texts on Native Americans in the Southeast, participate in educational classes and programs, and observe archaeology, language, folklore and oral history labs”. As impressive as it sounds, it’s even more so in person with interesting things to see, touch, and enjoy for kids and adults. A must-see!

Ironically, the Center is just down the road from the Andrew Jackson State Park, named for a President who adopted the Indian Removal Act of 1830, a heinous piece of legislation that forcibly relocated tens of thousands of Native Americans to the states west of the Mississippi, freeing up their native lands “to advance rapidly in population, wealth, and power” with gold exploration at its economic core. This was all in my head as I toured the Native American Center, and while I loved seeing the collection and appreciate that Jackson was South Carolina’s only President, I left wishing his statue was in this nice concrete building and the Native American Center was in his 360-acre park down the road.

Just one street over from the beautiful Catawba pottery is the work of another amazing local artist, metal sculptor Bob Doster. His Backstreet Studio, Gallery & Garden is a treasure of whimsical, striking, and over-sized sculptures, many of them commissioned by and partnering with local community organizations, schools, and companies. His studio space seems to have a continual work in progress, with bits of metal scraps littered about that alone would sell well in a local reclaimed shop. But it’s his commissioned pieces that are truly wondrous in size and feel and they can be found in museums, galleries, public art, and corporate and private collections around the world. You can stroll through the garden admiring his works and some from other local artists, and be sure to see the tea cups and plates installation near the front door.

Where to Eat & Drink in Lancaster

For craft beers, head to locally owned and operated Benford Brewing Company in Lancaster, a small farm brewery producing brews in 30 barrel batches at a time. They say the secret to their beer is the pure spring water that bubbles through their property, and by all accounts they’re onto something. If you can’t make it to their farm, stop by The Craft Stand, Lancaster’s first craft beer tap room, with 24 beers & ciders on tap, including Benford Brews!

Y’all come back!

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Where to Stay in the Old English District

Convenient

The Hampton Inn and Suites, Rock Hill

This new Hampton Inn and Suites offers a reliably comfortable stay in the heart of bustling Rock Hill, conveniently located off I-77 next to the Rock Hill Galleria Mall. Plus, it’s just minutes from Winthrop University, Lake Wylie, Charlotte Motor Speedway and the Manchester Meadows soccer complex. Rooms are tech-ready and the beds are super comfy. A comfortable stay in a perfect location. Check rates and availability.

Luxury

Bloomsbury Inn, Camden

This award winning property was built in 1849 by Colonel James Chesnut, Sr. and Mary Cox Chesnut. In fact, Bloomsbury was often times host to famed Civil War diarist, Mary Boykin Chesnut. This bed and breakfast is quietly tucked away on a residential street of the Historic District, in the oldest inland town in South Carolina. Guests love their full gourmet breakfast and homemade sweets. Set on two acres of manicured grounds, Bloomsbury Inn is inspected and approved to the highest standards by Select Registry. Check more details and availability.

Kilburnie the Inn at Craig Farm, Lancaster

Now in its 12th year of operations, this Inn is a luxurious, beautifully maintained B&B Inn with the aura of a small private boutique hotel. This 182 year old antebellum “Grand Dame” was moved in 1999 to 400-acre historic Craig Farm and completely restored to her former Greek revival grandeur. Recommended by Southern Living Magazine, Kilburnie offers beautifully furnished guestrooms with Bose Radios, fire-side seating and spacious bright private spa-like baths (two of which with fireplaces). Kilburnie offers sumptuous gourmet breakfasts, and guests can explore nature trails, beautiful gardens, and three large piazzas with rocking chairs for quiet solitude or socializing. Kilburnie is inspected and approved by the South Carolina Bed and Breakfast Association.

]]>Beyond the Charm (and Sweet Tea): Surprising Finds in the Olde English District of South CarolinaTraditional Slovenian Food: A Regional Guide to the Country’s Tastiest FoodsLocal Food GuideLori and Angelo SorrentinoMon, 22 Jul 2019 14:22:06 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/traditional-slovenian-food-guide53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5c38de36f950b76e2ff4029dTraditional Slovenian food is as unique as each of the country’s 24
gastronomic regions — and it’s so delicious! From pogaca bread to
buckwheat, here’s what to eat in Slovenia.

Traditional Slovenian pogača from Bela Krajina

Writing a Slovenian Food Guide… what were we thinking?

When we first visited Slovenia with the intention of eating local foods and then writing a guide about the food we gobbled down, we had no idea just how challenging it would be.

In part, because we were reminded that food around the world is always regional. Just as there’s no such thing as Italian food, or American food, or Japanese food — Slovenia is no exception, even if it is a small country. Given its small size (just 2 million residents and 7,800 square miles — roughly the size of south Florida) the regional variation among Slovenian food is vast. And there are several reasons for that.

Regional Variations on Slovenian Food

First, the influence of neighboring countries on the food of Slovenia can be felt practically everywhere. Flavors from Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the east, and Croatia to its south collide in Slovenia to produce some very unique and delicious dishes we’ve never had anywhere else. Imagine the Italian influence on food — fresh seafood, garlic, olive oil, fresh herbs. And the Austrian food? Can you say Slovenian Schnitzel?

Second, for many years the foods of the former Yugoslavia, part of which we now know as Slovenia, languished under a repressive government and was unknown to the world. But today, Slovenian cuisine is making its mark. Boasting 24 distinct culinary regions, chefs are putting modern spins on traditional dishes and introducing what farm-to-table means in this beautiful country. Dishes made from locally sourced seasonal produce along with meats and fish are a highlight, not to mention a selection of excellent wines. Slovenian cuisine is unique and diverse, yet these 24 regions share many common foods. For these reasons and many more, Slovenia should be a top spot on your Europe bucket list, though as you can imagine, all of these variations and interpretations make writing a food guide very challenging.

But trying new foods is one of our favorite things to do and we’re always up for a good challenge (a tough job but someone’s gotta do it!) One thing we discovered about Slovenia that really struck a chord with us is their commitment to the slow food movement which originated in the northern Piedmont of Italy (and also spurred the slow travel movement too). Whether it’s due to the local chefs’ desire to preserve traditional Slovenian food and create innovative twists of their own, or the inherent nature of the food in Slovenia dishes that takes hours to cook — food here is generally whole, hearty, rich and delicious.

So, what can you expect to eat when you visit Slovenia? Here are the main ingredients you’ll find in many typical dishes.

Traditional Slovenian Food Staples

Buckwheat served with roast chicken, pork, and Štruklji.

Buckwheat - Much of the land in Slovenia is not suited to growing cereal crops such as wheat, rye, corn, and millet on a large scale. Buckwheat however can be planted on much smaller parcels of land or even just in a nice sized garden. It’s not a true grain and flour is made from its black triangular seeds. Buckwheat grows quickly and can reseed itself. It’s used all over Slovenia as a low cost nutritious dish on its own, dumplings and breads, or as an accompaniment to main courses. It grows quickly and has a second benefit. Its white flowers are a favorite of bees who produce buckwheat honey.

Mushrooms - With three distinct climatic zones, Slovenia has an abundant wide variety of mushrooms. Mushroom pickers show up in great numbers from March to November hunting for these aromatic delicacies in the woods. Porcini mushrooms are especially popular. Mushrooms generally are used as a side dish or in soups and stews, and some grow quite large. The ones we saw a little old lady selling along the side of the road were as big as our heads! A favorite Slovenian dish is baked cheese and mushrooms.

Pumpkin Seed Oil - This luscious dark green oil is produced in the Štajerska and Prekmurje. The pumpkin itself is not good to eat so is used to replenish the fields. Only the seeds are used for the oil. They are first washed and roasted then pressed. It takes about 30-40 pumpkins to produce just one liter of oil. It’s used on salads, side dishes and as a drizzle on appetizers. We’ve even had it on vanilla ice cream. If that it’s delicious isn’t enough, it’s highly nutritious as well.

Honey - How amazing is it that a country with just 2 million people has about 10,000 beekeepers producing 2,000 tons of honey a year! Beekeeping is one of Slovenia’s oldest traditional crafts and is an important part of the country’s economy, so much so that it’s the only member of the EU to have protected its native bee, the Carniolan bee. Clearly they are committed to keeping bees and making honey, and it shows. Their honey is as beautiful in color as it is delicious to taste.

Nuts - The Europeanwalnut is native to Slovenia but the wild trees were over-harvested for the beautiful wood. To bring walnuts back to Slovenia, plantations were established and seedlings were given to farmers for free. Today it’s estimated that there are over 100,000 walnut trees in Slovenia. That’s a lot of walnuts and great news for bakers and lovers of strudel and potica!

Dandelions - Slovenians look forward to Spring, the only time of year to pick dandelions. A nutritious natural green, dandelions are eaten in salads and a Slovenian favorite is Dandelion greens with potatoes or beans.

Potatoes - The Slovenian diet tends to be heavy in starches and the humble potato is used in dishes throughout the country. They are often roasted or added to just about every dish if there’s no štruklji, or even if there is!

Cream - No surprise here given the large numbers of cows raised in Slovenia. Cika cows in particular are prized for both the richness and quantity of milk that they produce. Cream is essential for butter, cheeses, baking, and is mixed with horseradish or paprika to be used as a condiment.

Fruits - When is season, wild strawberries, blackberries, and loganberries are harvested to be used just as you might imagine. If not eaten fresh, they’re used in baking and to make luscious jams and preserves. No country that makes strudel would be without apples and Slovenia is no exception. Like almost anywhere that apples are grown, they are enjoyed in desserts, cakes, strudels, and pie.

Slovenian Bread

Pogača

Similar in sound to foccacia, pogača from the Bela Krajina region (Belokranjska pogača) is one of Slovenia's very special foods and is protected by the EU as a Slovenian specialty food. It’s basically a yeasted flat bread a lot like Italian focaccia but that’s where the similarity ends. We learned how to make it from Sonja when we went glamping in Bela Krajina, and learned that instead of olive oil and herbs, pogača is coated with an egg wash, coarse salt and caraway seeds (what Slovenians refer to as cumin). The biggest difference however is that it is made to very exact specifications — diameter, thickness, and the size of the squares that are etched into it. It’s best served still warm and broken along those lines. Pogača is eaten at breakfast, to welcome guests into the home, or as we found out, pretty much anytime. We had it in the morning and at dinner with wine. It was soft and aromatic and the salt adds a wonderful taste to the bread.

Making Pogača in Bela Krajina
A beautiful fresh-baked pogača
Served with homemade ghee

Dekorativni Kruh

Simply put, Decorativni Kruh is decorative bread, and you’ll see it everywhere no matter the region. What’s so special about the decorative breads is the time and technique that goes into making them. Often these decorative breads are given as gifts or served at special occasions like weddings, and it’s easy to see why they’re so beautiful. Clearly, they’re made with lots of love!

Dekorativni kruh in Bela Krajina
Dekorativni sunflower kruh

Meat and Fish

Trout

Although Slovenians enjoy meat and meat products especially pork, they also enjoy salt water and fresh water fishes. Because trout thrive in the cold river waters of Slovenia, it is the most common fish that can be found on almost every menu. Arguably some of the best trout comes from the Soča River although there are strict rules concerning the size of the fish that may be harvested. Served with a variety of side dishes like vegetables and potatoes, trout are first rolled in buckwheat or corn flour and then fried. We found them to be succulent and tasty wherever we tried them.

Bohinj Pork Spread (Bohinjska Zaseka)

Originating in the beautiful and rugged Alpine valley of Bohinj, the people here have been making this local specialty for well over a hundred years. It’s made using cold smoked bacon that’s been desalted and finely chopped or ground. It’s then put into a container and the fat from the bacon or pork lard is poured over it and left to ‘harden’. This produces a spread that Slovenians eat on bread or use as a topping on an a variety of dishes. OK, so this dish may not for everyone but at least give it a try (cuz it’s delicious). Bohinj is one of the more popular day trips from Ljubljana and an easy (less than an hour) drive.

Pršut (Prosciutto)

Each of the gastronomic regions of areas known for karst phenomena and the cold wind known as bora have their own methods for drying meat products in a natural manner. Here in the place where the tradition of salting and drying meat has lasted for centuries, you must taste the Karst prosciutto, pancetta, and the Karst zašinek (dried shoulder of pork). Kraški pršut (Kras prosciutto) is considered the best of the Karst prosciuttos and is one of the most important Slovenian culinary specialities. Kras prosciutto is prized for its excellent flavor and texture.

Traditional Slovenian Carniolan sausage
Slovenian Pršut

Carniolan Sausage (Kranjska Klobasa)

Believed to have originated in 1896, one of the best known Slovenian foods from the Alpine region is Carniolan sausage. This protected Slovenian food is smoked and made with exact portions of pork, beef, bacon and pig intestines along with garlic and spices. The European Commission has approved its entry into the register of protected geographical indications and is claimed to be the only sausage which the astronauts ate in space. Usually grilled or fried, it is served a variety of ways with a variety of accompaniments.

Soups and Stews

Jota (Yota)

A strong soup typical of western Slovenia, Jota is made with turnip, beans, onions, and sometimes smoked pork ribs are added. These are common ingredients found in the cellars of cottages. They are easily stored and can be prepared in many ways. Jota can be found throughout the country, but with regional variations. For example, in the Istrian region jota is a thick stew made of sour cabbage and beans but without potatoes. In other areas local vegetables or even barley will be added. This is a true hearty peasant dish, but of the best kind.

Goulash (Bograč)

This rich stick to your ribs kind of stew is made all over Slovenia and varies regionally. For instance, Prekmurski Bograč is a traditional dish from the Prekmurje region. The name ‘Bograč’ comes from the large pot that was traditionally used to cook beef or pork stews. Here it’s a thick goulash made with three different meats, spices, pepper, tomatoes, potato and when in season, fresh mushrooms. In Kamnik, the dish is often made with venison (deer meat) from the hunting tradition in Kamniška Bistrica Valley. But no matter what meat and other ingredients are used, what must be added is quality paprika. If you’re a goulash lover don’t miss the annual ‘bograč’ cooking competition for a real treat usually held in August

Potatoes, Dumplings and Pasta

Frika

This simple omelette dish from the Soča valley is made of eggs and grated cheese (usually Tolmin) and is fried in fat or oil with potato, cheese and sometimes bacon or sausage added. The hearty dish was traditionally eaten by shepherds, but it looks delicious, doesn’t it? We’d eat in!

Frika omelette, typical in the Soča Valley of Slovenia

Buckwheat dumplings

Buckwheat is a staple in Slovenia and is served in many ways. It is used in breads, stews, as a side dish, porridge, and spoon dumplings. Because it is plentiful and nutricious it is often combined with meat dishes. But the national dish of Slovenia is special and combines spooned buckwheat dumplings with veal. This dish was on the menu at all of the Ljubljana restaurants we visited.

Buckwheat dumplings
Buckwheat Žganci

Buckwheat Žganci

A very popular Slovenian food made with buckwheat flour and often served with cracknels, small pieces of pork fat that have been fried until they’re crisp. If not buckwheat then wheat or potato flour is used. It’s cooked like one would cook oatmeal. The flour is mixed with water and a little salt and oil. It’s then simmered and crumbled into a bowl. If cracknels aren’t used žganci will be topped with lard, honey, sour milk, mushroom soup or cabbage. This is a nutritious and real stick to your ribs food that is inexpensive to make and was at one time eaten daily at all three meals by those living in the countryside. This is a Slovenian farm dish that you can try with sour milk at the Herdsmen huts in Velika Planina.

Štruklji

This is what Americans might know as strudel, only…different. Once served only on festive occasions, it can now be found all around the country at any time of year. It’s made with different types of dough and served either baked or cooked. The Štruklji are filled with a seemingly endless variety of fillings ranging from savory to sweet. We’ve had them with poppy seeds and walnuts, but the savory with a creamy cheese and tarragon filling is a Slovenian favorite.

Two variations on Slovenian Štruklji - this one boiled and sliced, served with steak
Baked Štruklji

IdrijaŽlikrofi Pasta

Originating in the old mining town of Idrija and awarded European trademark protection since 2010, Idrija žlikrofi are soft pasta dough pockets that have a distinctive shape and are stuffed with a potato, onion and spice mixture or minced bacon and lard. They can be dressed with cracknels, butter or with “bakalca,” a special lamb, sometimes rabbit, and vegetable sauce and can be enjoyed as a starter, a side dish, or a main dish. Eaten with roasts or sometimes topped with crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, this dish carries the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label so it can only be served to you by certified experts of this Slovenian delicacy. They are really good but also really filling.

Two variations of technique on Idrija Žlikrofi Pasta

Cheeses

Slovenia has a cheese making tradition that can be traced back to over 500 years. Being a historically agrarian and pastoral culture, cheese making was essential to preserving essential nutrition from the milk of cows, sheep, and goats. Today these fine cheeses have achieved International status and are enjoyed at tables around the world. Here are three of the best known.

Trnič

This is the most romantic Slovenian cheese or maybe in all the world! Traditionally made with cottage cheese, cream and salt, two Trnič cheeses are made at the same time and molded into a pear shape resembling the shape of a woman’s breast with the same imprints on both as decoration. We saw these on Velika Planina (the high mountain plateau) above Kamnik. Tradition has it that at the end of the pasturing season a shepherd would present one to his wife or girlfriend as a sign of love and fidelity and keep the other for himself. If presented to a girlfriend, it was considered a marriage proposal. If she kept it, she had accepted the proposal. Today, fresh Trnič is grated over pasta, risotto, salads and most any dish calling for a grated cheese. It’s also served in thin slices drizzled with olive or pumpkin seed oil.

Photo of Trnič cheese: Visit Kamnik

Tolminc

Originating in the Goriška region of the Upper Soča Valley, this semi-hard cheese made from raw cow’s milk is only produced in the towns of of Tolmin, Kobarid and Bovec. 80% of the milk used to make tominc comes from Cika cows, a breed indigenous to this area. This typical Slovenian cheese must be produced in accordance with strict regulations to be called Tolminc. It is another Slovenian product given the European Commission’s Protected Designation of Origin label. Because of its earthy aroma and a sweet flavor it’s becoming popular for baking and among locals is called the 'King of Mountain Heaven'.

Soft sheep cheese from the Bela Krajina region of Slovenia

Bovec

Bovec is a hard cheese made from raw sheep’s milk and is only made on Mangartska Planina, in Loška Koritnica and Krnica. Some producers will add a small amount of goat or cow’s milk. Bovec is a full-bodied cheese with an equally full aroma and a slightly spicy flavor. This is another cheese that is produced according to regulations and has been given the European Commission’s Protected Designation of Origin label.

Slovenian Desserts

Prekmurska Gibanica

Gibanica is the most famous and the most popular of all Slovenia desserts, and as all the other foods of Slovenia, there are several variations. The popular Prekmurska Gibanica hails from the Prekmurje region of Slovenia along the River Mura, made from two types of dough and four different fillings stuffed into eight layers. Another version is the more traditional Serbian Gibanica, which is flatter and cheesier, and found throughout Serbia, Slovenia, and Croatia.

Krofi (Slovenian fried dough)

In the US these are called doughnuts, in France they are called beignets, and in Slovenia they are called Krofi. And the best Krofi come from Trojane, northeast of Ljubljana. These are unique because of the addition of lemon zest giving them a slight lemony flavor. After rising, pieces of the dough are fried in oil until a golden brown. They can be eaten plain or sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar, glazed with chocolate, or filled with fruit jam. Krofi have grown in popularity especially during the carnival time of year and several thousand are fried up and eaten daily.

Bled Creme Cake, a must-eat when you’re visiting scenic Lake Bled

Bled Creme Cake (Kremna Rezina)

Made with a layer of puff pastry and filled with sweet vanilla cream and custard, this decadent pastry is Lake Bled’s culinary speciality. Oh my! It was the first thing we wanted to eat when we took a day trip from Ljubljana. We decided to hike the trail first though, the one that takes you to the high scenic overlook for that fantastic view of Lake Bled. After we came back down, we made a beeline for the nearest restaurant for a big slice. It was heavenly!

Fun Fact: Bled creme cake was first served at the Park Hotel on Lake Bled in 1953, and thanks to a recent granting of protected designation of origin status by the EU, it only comes from the pastry shops at Lake Bled. Go to Lake Bled to hike, for the incredible scenery or a boat ride. But definitely go for creme cake!

Potica (Nut roll)

Similar to štrukli, potica is multilayered roulade-like baked pastry filled with walnuts and young cheese. This typical Slovenian dessert made of dough comes with at least 80 different types of fillings. Typical fillings include walnut, cracknels, and poppy seeds but the most preferred is potica with tarragon. One of the oldest known potica varieties has a honey filling – an old sweetener used in a country with a long bee-keeping tradition.

DRINK

Rušovc Tips and Pinecone Liquor

This liquor is made from young tips of green mountain pinecones. The tips and cones are placed in a jar along with sugar and honey until fermented. Pinecone liquor is a traditional specialty of the Kamnik area that celebrates the herdsmen of the Velika Planina and the long honored tradition of gathering herbs and other plants for medical and nutritional purposes. The liquor is sweet and as you might expect has a completely unique taste. You might love it, or not. But if you do, hang on! It can kick you hard if you overdo it.

Rakjia

Rakjia is a type of fruit or herb brandy that really packs a punch! The alcohol content is 40% but homemade versions can be 50% or more. It’s common for local farmers and families to make their own wine and distilled spirits. Rakjia can be made from fermented plums (the most popular), and often fermented grapes, which are distilled until a clear liquid is produced. This can be drunk as is or infused with herbs or other fruits like apricots and berries. Enjoying rakjia is only part of the experience — but the etiquette is just as important. To toast, you should look your drinking buddy right in the eye as you toss it back. Anything less is considered shady and untrustworthy, and who wants that!

Beer

Beer is popular in Slovenia with national brands Laško and Union being the two most popular. The beer is Slovenia is mostly pale lagers, and there is a burgeoning craft beer scene found in Ljubljana and smaller regional towns around the country. Beer is typically served in liter or half-liter glass mugs in pubs, and served with some good Slovenian pub fare.

Slovenian Wine

Wine has been produced in Slovenia for over 1000 years. There are three main wine growing regions and where the best Slovenian wine comes from is always a debate.. The largest is the Drava region in the northeast. The Lower Slava region is in the east and the Littoral region in the west. Over 75% of the wine produced is white with the same varietals in the different regions producing regionally distinct wines. The majority of the wine production from some 28,000 wineries is drunk in Slovenia with a small portion being exported mostly to the US.

Whether you’re a foodie or not, when you visit Slovenia, be sure and try the regional variations of food. Given that Slovenia is just becoming known for their food, it’s a cultural opportunity you don’t want to miss.

Na Zdravje! (Cheers!)

Where to Stay in Slovenia

Northern Slovenia

Terme Snovik Eco Resort, Kamnik

In the valley below Velika Planina near Kamnik, the thermal spa and eco resort of Terme Snovik is a great place to stay. The natural beauty of the Tuhinjska Valley surrounds this resort from its beautiful evergreen forests on one side to the Kamnik-Savinja Alps on the other. The resort proudly lays claim to being the “highest lying thermal spa in Slovenia” and are committed to preserving the environment and coexistence with nature, a concept that’s dear to our hearts. In 2008 they received the international designation Ecolabel (Eco Label) and numerous awards for environmentally friendly behavior at home and abroad. Besides the inviting and ginormous thermal pool with its mineral rich natural water and fun water features scattered throughout, there’s also a relaxing sauna, whirlpool, and an outdoor pool that’s like a small water park. Families will find a lot of things to do at Terme Snovik for kids, like horseback riding, an outdoor fitness course, climbing wall, and cycling. Or you can all simply relax and enjoy some spa services like massages, manis and pedis. Accommodations at Terme Snovik range from studio apartments and larger apartments with kitchens for 2-6 people, to a superior apartment with a water bed, fireplace and its own jacuzzi and sauna. Rates vary per person/per night and by accommodation type and range from 100-250€ (around $100-$285 USD). Check the latest rates, more details, and availability.

Ljubljana

Grand Hotel Union

The Grand Hotel Union is a 4-star hotel in the historic heart of Ljubljana, and the largest conference facility in the city. And while you might think staying at such a hotel wouldn’t be the most charming, that’s exactly what we loved about it and surprisingly so, not to mention the superb location just a 5 minute walk from the Triple Bridge. Despite being renovated to a modern luxury standard, the elegant hotel retains an inviting, even downright cozy feel. The hotel has everything you’d expect or could want — sumptuous wellness treatments and a lovely indoor pool, elegantly-appointed guest rooms, reliable wi-fi, several on-site restaurants, and a full-service barber shop including custom cuts and shaves. Yes, the Grand Hotel Union is that kind of place, well-appointed and approachable, with a more than ample and delicious breakfast buffet. It’s close to everything and all you could want in a Ljubljana hotel. Rates start at $125 USD for a queen room. Check rates and availability here.

Vander Urbani Resort

This is the place if you want a hip and happening urban stay in Ljubljana. The design aesthetic is fun and stylish, and when you want a bit more down to earth, meet up with friends in their downtown Haus Restaurant for good food and drinks. There’s even an intimate rooftop bar that’s, well, pretty amazing — with a rooftop sundeck and pool, the Bubbles Bar, and endless hours of fun. It’s a really cool place to stay! Check availability and more details.

B&B Slamic

If you can’t make up your mind whether to go with a hotel or AirBnB in Ljubljana, the B&B Slamic might be just the right fit for you! It feels like a bit of each in one hotel — part hotel and part B&B with an intimate and homey feel at once. The rooms are spacious and the location can’t get much better right in the city center. Plus, there are lots of cozy places to sit and enjoy a drink after a day of exploring. Check rates and availability.

Southern Slovenia

Big Berry Luxury Lifestyle & Glamping ResortYou may have seen our review about our stay at Big Berry. What a completely unique experience! This lifestyle resort set along the tranquil Kolpa River in Bela Krajina is so peaceful and a perfect getaway if you and your family love glamping or just being in the outdoors. Big Berry is far from camping, and the modern 1-3 bedroom pods are uber comfy with private bathrooms, full walk-in showers, living spaces, full kitchens, and luxury beds that overlook the countryside. Besides playing on the river, swimming, and kayaking, you can spend your days traversing the quiet roads meeting local farmers, artisans, and producers, or hiking the breathtaking landscape around Bela Krajina. We highly recommend this experience rich in nature and the green outdoors. Check rates and availability.﻿

As second-generation Italians whose grandparents both emigrated to America from the small hilltop towns around Naples, Italy (and one from Siracusa, Sicily) 100 years ago, the irony of having finally settled in Naples, Florida after years of moving around the country is not lost on us. This fact alone doesn’t remotely qualify us to present you with a list of the authentic Italian restaurants Naples Florida has to offer. Being second-generation is a pedigree label and one that residents of Italy could honestly care less about. In their eyes, we’re simply American. Our grandparents left the Old Country for a reason and many like them (my grandmother for example) quickly ran away from their Italian heritage, trying their best to assimilate into American culture. But the pendulum continues to swing, and now we’re busy reconnecting with our Italian ancestry and discovering more of the ties that were lost.

What does qualify us on the subject of authentic Italian food — other than having been raised on a Mediterranean Diet and really good Italian peasant food — is our years of traveling and eating our way through Italy, writing about the traditional Italian foods we’ve enjoyed, and how the bounties of the land still influence the regional cuisine just as terroir makes the wine. The highly regulated DOP, DOCG, and other governmental regulations on food and wine specialties have served to provide growers and makers with a built-in authenticity seal. Add to that the Italian’s cultural affinity for adhering to seasonality, and following the trail of food and wine production to its source becomes a little easier.

Naples, Florida is one of America’s top foodie destinations, so you can imagine how excited we get when we find good restaurants in Naples (and we’re always looking) that bill themselves as Italian restaurants, and actually are! You won’t find restaurants listed here who offer a few Italy-inspired items on an otherwise something-for-everyone menu. Or places whose only resemblance to Italian are the menu items written in Italian. The restaurants here are some of the best restaurants in Naples, Florida, not just Italian restaurants. And they’re using fresh and traditional ingredients, cooking techniques, and presentations. Even if some are adding a little twist here and there, they never stray far from their Italian heart and soul. So the next time you’re visiting Naples, Florida — or for those lucky enough to call it home — be sure and check out our favorites.

Mangiare per vivere e non vivere per mangiare(Eat to live, don’t live to eat)!

Osteria Tulia and Bar Tulia

Osteria Tulia and its sister eatery next door, Bar Tulia, serves classic rustic Italian food. Both places continue to garner raves reviews and we think they’re well deserved. They continue to live up to the hype, again and again. Every item we’ve eaten here reminds us of what we love most about good Italian food. Fresh ingredients, prepared well. Like their homemade ricotta (that’s not always on the menu) or the equally simple Bucatini Cacio e Pepe with sheep cheese & cracked pepper. The more casual Bar Tulia next door is just as good, though a bit more lively, and with an emphasis on well-crafted cocktails. 466 and 462 5th Ave S, Naples, FL

Fried squash blossoms, Photo courtesy: Osteria Tulia

Bice Ristorante

Bice occupies a quieter spot on glitzy 5th Avenue South and their Italian food is distinct and upscale. Their menu offers traditional and authentic ingredients with modern presentations. One of their signature dishes — the classic Braised Veal Shank Ossobuco — is hearty but no less beautiful. It’s off-the-charts fantastic. 300 5th Ave S, Naples, FL

The trouble with eating Italian food is that five or six days later you’re hungry again.

— George Miller

Caffe della Amore

While the decor here may be a bit heavy and old school, the food continues to satisfy our cravings for consistently good Italian food. This is one restaurant in Naples who serves Wild Boar (alla Cacciatora) in a traditional way, and they serve it over soft polenta. Reason enough to enjoy this Naples Italian restaurant. Insanely good! 1400 Gulf Shore Blvd. N., Naples, FL

Barbatella

There’s something so casually comfortable about Barbatella — though they call themselves ‘fine dining’, they clearly do both well. Their food transports you to Italy and gets you remembering that little trattoria in Bologna, the food market in Florence, or the Michelin meal in Sorrento. The food is creative and delicious, including the pizza which — while not authentically Neapolitan — is equally amazing with the freshness and combination of ingredients. The casual atmosphere on 3rd Street South is cozy too! 1290 Third Street South, Naples, FL

Spaghetti Carbonara with soft poached egg, Photo courtesy: Barbatella

Campiello

The food here is self-described “rustic, contemporary Italian” which means it’s traditional and tasty Italian, but also artfully presented. It’s our favorite special occasion places (as in, some of their prices are as impressive as their prime 3rd Street South address), but the food is also a cut above. We love their Balsamic Glazed Short Ribs (the accompanying ragout of smoked tomatoes and Sicilian onions are as yummy as the ribs themselves) and wood-fired pizzas. The atmosphere is relaxed and lends itself well to indulging in an extra cocktail or glass of wine. Depending on your budget, you may enjoy it here occasionally or often, but either way it’s truly a must for Italian cuisine. 1177 3rd St S, Naples, FL

Italian food really reflects the people. It reflects like a prism that fragments into regions.

— Lidia Bastianich

Panevino

Eating at Panevino is like pulling up a chair in your Italian grandmother’s kitchen — warm and homey with the mouth-watering smells of her cooking coming from the kitchen. You’ll find a lot of delicious things on the menu but their homemade pasta, veal and chicken dishes really stand out. Even the wine list is surprising. How often do you get to enjoy Vernaccia wine outside San Gimignano? 8853 North Tamiami Trail, Naples, FL (Publix Shopping Center), Naples, FL

Panevino does garlicky clams really well!

Parmesan Pete’s

OK, so we’ll forgive Pete for calling himself Parmesan and not Parmigiano-Reggiano (it’s a bit wordy) but the food here is worth a visit. The Cavatelli and Broccoli first caught my attention 4 years ago and we’ve been going back often ever since. The service is friendly too and the atmosphere homey in a Brooklyn kind of way. It’s become a favorite, but now that Tony Bennett visited a few months ago, we may have to call ahead for reservations in the off-season! 7935 Airport-Pulling Rd, Naples, FL

La Trattoria

The pizza at La Trattoria is the closest I’ve come to my own Pizza Love Story in Naples, Italy — the way true Neapolitan pizza is made, with a pillowy wood-charred crust and doughy, slightly-undercooked center. Everything else on the menu is tasty and authentically prepared too, but sometimes it all comes down to the pizza! 878 5th Ave S, Naples, FL

Authentic wood-fired Pizza Foccacia in Naples, Italy

WHERE TO STAY IN NAPLES, FLORIDA

Moderate Hotels

Park Short Resort, Naples - We recently discovered Park Shore Resort in the central Park Shore area of Naples, with its gorgeous Asian-inspired setting and just 3 minutes from Venetian Bay with great shops, dining, and beaches. You can bike to the beach without having to cross the highway (Rte. 41). Kids will love the nice pool and spotting turtles in the lagoon. A great value! Check rates and details.

If you're looking for lots of charm for the money, check out The Lemon Tree Inn. Between the Olde Naples charm, the retro atmosphere, renovated rooms, and manicured grounds and pool, it's a good value with a great location. Check rates and more details.

The Inn at Pelican Bay is a great choice with quick 5 minute access to the beach in one direction and shopping & dining at Mercato in the other. Check availability and details.

Naples Beach Hotel and Golf Club -For the ultimatein family fun, it's hard to beat the Naples Beach Hotel, one of the most established hotels in town. Located right on the beach, there's plenty to do and explore on a family vacation or romantic getaway. Check rates and details here.

The Naples Grande Beach Resort is known for it's great location near Clam Pass, and its endless array of activities for the family. You'll never want for things to do or to keep the kids busy while you relax. Check out current rates and more details here.

The Inn on Fifth always gets high praise. It's got a prime downtown location and good luxury value. It's also steps to great dining, shopping, and beaches, and hard to beat their rooftop swimming pool and signature Concierge services. Find out more including rates here.

Have you dined at a good Italian restaurant in Naples, Florida? We’d love to hear about it. Share your experience in the comments below!

]]>8 Favorite Authentic Italian Restaurants in Naples, FloridaWhat to Pack for Summer Sailing on Your Maine Windjammer CruiseUSATravel GearLori and Angelo SorrentinoFri, 05 Jul 2019 18:15:43 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/what-to-pack-for-sailing-in-maine-windjammer-cruise53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d01407aa5b6cc0001e314f8Wondering what to pack for a Maine windjammer cruise? Summers can be tricky
when it comes to the weather and sailing in Maine adds a windy and
potentially wet element. Our packing list has everything you need to keep
you warm, comfortable, and dry!

You’ve booked that trip of a lifetime, a sailing vacation in Maine, and now it’s time to get ready. But what will you need? How much should you pack? How much is too much? All great questions, and we’re here to help.

We recently sailed on a Maine windjammer cruise aboard the schooner J. & E. Riggin out of Rockland, Maine, and like most people on their first sailing cruise, we had no idea what to expect. We’d gone camping in Maine for many years and were used to traveling and packing light, so whittling down what to pack seemed like a no-brainer. But sailing on a boat with twenty other cruisers and with limited personal space is altogether different. It’s easy when you’re camping to stow those extra things that you think you might need in the back of a truck or SUV. If something gets left behind at home or an unforeseen need arises, you can get what you need at the camp store or in town. No such luck on a sailing ship at sea. You have to pack only what you’ll need and pack smart.

What to Pack for a Maine Windjammer Cruise

Whether you’re sailing on a windjammer schooner or a smaller ship, sailing isn’t the same as camping on dry land, even on the sunniest of days in Maine. It’s much, much cooler. Plus sailing in the wind and rain can be extremely cold and uncomfortable. So how do you pack for sailing in Maine on a windjammer cruise? This is where we can help! Much of this comes from our camping experience and was easily adapted to several days onboard a historic schooner. You don’t need a lot of fancy sailing gear. Here’s a list of not only what to pack, but things that we know will work.

Let’s start at the top and go head to toe!

1. A Good UPF-Rated Hat with Lanyard or Bandana

Many folks on sailing trips prefer ball caps and they can great for keeping your hair looking good in the wind. But while these are okay for coverage, most ball caps don’t offer much in the way of UPF coverage to block the sun’s damaging rays. We recommend a UPF-rated cap or dedicated sunhat for both men and women that has a high UPF rating, usually 50+,and a wider brim to help shield your ears and neck from the rays.

Any hat should also have a way to secure it under your chin so your hat doesn’t go flying off. One girl lost her cute Panama-style hat to the wind and there was no turning back. There are various bandanas with UPF ratings used by fishermen that are very good but will leave your face, neck, and ears exposed.

Lori ordered a great packable Furtalk hat last year for Europe and loves it, and it was perfect for this cruise. Angelo has worn Outdoor Research hats for years and swears by them. Here are some that will keep you feeling — and looking — good!

2. Polarized Sunglasses

My recent pair of Blenders and me on the beach in Florida

Whenever you’re on the water, sunglasses are a must to protect your eyes. But if they’re not polarized, you’re kind of missing the point.

Polarized lenses filter the glare coming off the water so your eyes don’t strain — an important feature to have when you’re sailing. If you don’t want to risk losing a good pair overboard, we don’t blame you for not wanting to spend $300 for a pair of Oakleys or Maui Jims.

But have you heard of Blenders Eyewear? We found this awesome company in California and have 3 pairs to date. They have very cool styles with polarized lenses and the best part? — most are under $50!

>>> Ready to check out a pair of Blenders? Please use our Referral link!

3. A Versatile Travel Scarf to Warm Your Neck

Sailing vacations can be a little chilly as you continually run in and out of the direct sun. Some folks are more sensitive to the sun than others. Combine that with the wind and salt air and exposed skin can quickly become irritated. If you’re prone to sun and wind burn, a light silk or synthetic scarf to wrap around your neck is a good idea. And it can serve double duty to wrap around you if it gets chilly on deck.

4. Shirts and Tops to Layer!

This is where you start to THINK LAYERS! You can check what the forecasted weather is going to be for the duration of your cruise, but just to be safe and comfortable we recommend a long sleeve sun shirt and 2 or 3 tee shirts (the wicking ones are great in any weather). Ladies often like strapped sun tops but we think you’ll find that the sun and the cool (cold!) wind make them impractical. Remember, the water temperature here hovers on one side or the other of 60° F throughout the summer making the air blowing over the deck quite chilly. Short sleeve tops or light pullovers are fine as long as you’re prepared to layer. A great layering choice for over a tee shirt is a single thermal or lightweight fleece pullover. They’re easy to pack and effective. Silk long johns are also excellent for layering and Lori found them to be a great choice for sleeping at night (nighttime temps in early June were below 50 degrees). They’re warm and ultra lightweight under the wool blankets on the ship (windjammer cabins are generally not heated). They are light, can be worn underneath just about anything, dry quickly, and they pack well.

5. It’s All About the Wind — Bring a Good Windbreaker or Wind shirt!

This may very well be your most worn piece of clothing while on board. Be sure to have a really good windbreaker with an adjustable hood. Some can double as a rain jacket making them a good choice for packing and for your budget. Another option is a pullover wind shirt. Golfers seem to like these because they’re slimmer cut than a windbreaker and don’t have a hood. We’ve tried one and it was very good even for layering. Either of these will work so it comes down to personal choice. Just be sure that whichever you choose will fit over a warm layer or two.

6. Sweaters and Sweatshirts to Keep You Toasty

You can certainly layer with a sweatshirt but sweatshirts tend to either be cotton or a synthetic blend making them less effective at keeping you warm especially if they become damp or wet. We recommend that you pack a good wool sweater. Wool will still keep you warm even if it gets damp and nothing is warmer for layering. It need not be a really heavy or bulky sweater. Remember, this is for layering and you’re packing light.

7. Pants and Shorts, Because… well, You need Pants and Shorts

This one’s pretty easy. Wear one and pack the other. Honestly — even on a 7-day cruise, 2 pairs is actually fine! Jeans or hiking pants are both good choices, and bring along a pair of shorts, maybe two in the summer. Hiking pants tend to be lighter than jeans, dry quickly and usually will pack smaller allowing for an extra pair if you like. A pair of light sweatpants can also be nice for lounging on deck at night or in your cabin.

8. Footwear and Socks — Keep Your Sea Dogs Happy!

Tennis shoes, running shoes, sneakers, topsiders — anything with soft soles that offer good traction on deck without marring the deck surface are good options for a windjammer cruise. Lori absolutely loves her Blundstone boots so that’s what she wore. They were the only shoes she wore last year for Europe and they really fit the bill. She wears them for hiking, walking around, and even dresses them up with skirts or a dress. In fact, two of the three crew members on our Maine windjammer cruise were wearing them. Certainly a ringing endorsement! They’re super comfy, durable, great for onshore excursions, and if that’s not enough, they’re also waterproof. Perfect for a rustic cruise. Angelo likes his low cut hikers with a gore-tex lining to keep his feet dry and they don’t have a heavy lug sole. Socks are a personal preference. Wear what best keeps your feet warm and comfy inside your footwear. In June and September wool socks are great but not everyone likes wool socks. We prefer wool/synthetic blends that come in different weights

9. Outerwear: Layers, Layers, Layers

If we can stress one thing for packing for sailing in Maine, it’s to bring light layers. How you tolerate cold or hot will decide what your top layer will be, but one thing is certain, you don’t need a heavy winter parka. Or tons of thick wool layers. Don’t be like Joey Tribbiani! If you’ve planned your layering along with the time of year (more layers for June and September) then your top layer can be as simple as a medium weight jacket, maybe even with light insulation. Peeling off layers is as easy as putting them on and you want something that is roomy enough to fit over everything underneath or maybe warm enough to allow minimal layering in certain conditions. A good jacket will be water resistant, good at blocking the wind, and have a collar that can be turned up to shield your neck. We like fleece lined soft shells. They’re light, warm, pack easily and are great for layering.

Don’t be like Joey!

10. Rain Gear, Just in Case

Hopefully you’ll only have sunshine on your cruise but this is Maine and the weather can quickly turn a bit nasty. Because of that we absolutely recommend a rain jacket with a hood and rain pants. You may think that you only need a jacket for a light drizzle or mist, but trust us, a couple hours of wet on deck in the wind and you’re going to have a wet bottom. If you sit, water will run along your seat, and yup, wet bottom. That’s why you need rain pants. They don’t have to match the top. They just have to keep you dry. There are a lot of great lightweight packable rain jackets and pants. Some even fold into a pocket on the jacket making them super packable. Get the jacket and pants separately or get them together, but get them!

NOTE: We don’t recommend rain ponchos for anything least of all on a sailing vessel. They suck in the wind, and on board could get caught or tangled in something making them a danger to you and others.

11. Swim Suit (But Forget the Instagrammable Floatie!)

You might think that we’ve lost it suggesting that you jump into 50° F water, but some people do it. If you’re auditioning for the Polar Bear Club, have at it — bring along a swim suit and a large oversized towel (the ones provided on board are usually the size of a small bath towel). Toward later summer the water usually warms to a brisk but swimmable 55-60° F. But leave the Instagrammable floatie at home. Trust us, it’s just not a good fit!

12. A Dry Bag, Good for Land and Sea

So what are you going to pack all this stuff in to keep it compact and most of all, dry. Remember that there isn’t really room to store luggage in your cabin. Most cruise operators prefer that you pack in a soft sided suitcase of better yet, a duffel. We recommend a duffel and in this case a waterproof duffel or dry bag. They come in a variety of sizes usually measured in liters like a backpack, are lockable, are easy to stow under a berth, and a good one will be as tough as nails so you need not worry about checking it if you’re flying. If the weather turns wet and your cabin becomes damp, keeping your clothes dry so that they’re warm is essential. These are a good investment for most travels where there’s a chance of rain. We use them and here are the ones we prefer.

13. Assorted Sundries

There are things that you will need that you can either pack or pick-up from the local drugstore when you arrive. We find that it’s often easier to buy small sizes of these when we arrive, and then leave them behind for the next folks. It’s also easier if you’re flying rather than dealing with liquids being taken by our friends at the TSA.

Sunscreen

The sun is coming at you from all directions when you’re sailing and you’re going to be exposed to both for most of the day so a good sunscreen with a high SPF rating is an absolute essential. We especially like these for both their performance and pleasant scent.

Insects

Nothing will ruin that Down East lobster bake you’ve been drooling over more than blood thirsty mosquitoes and black flies. Depending on your anchorage they can also be a nuisance on board. From years of our camping in Maine, this one really works!

Lip Balm

For the same reason that you need sunscreen, add in wind burn. You don’t want dry cracked lips when it’s time to enjoy a meal or relax with a cold one. We’re never without it and this is our favorite.

Reusable Water Bottle

Being exposed to sun and wind all day will make you parched. The schooners carry an ample supply of drinking water but it is at a premium, so to avoid waste and spills bring your own reusable water bottle. They’re easy to keep close at hand, won’t spill if they tip over, and you’ll have water to drink in your cabin. We love these and always pack them along and avoid single use plastics..

Wet Wipes

If you feel it’s necessary for hygienic reasons then by all means bring along a small pack of these disposable wipes. This is another item you need not pack but can pick-up locally before you set sail.

14. Power Up!! It’s Good to Be Prepared with Your Tech Accessories

Solar Charger

Campsites seldom have electricity to recharge battery packs or mobile phones. The same is true of a century old schooner. But what they do have is what Mother Nature so generously provides, the sun. Solar chargers come in a variety of sizes and price points. There are large fold out models and many that are compact. Charge rates vary with size and price. For packing light and providing a reasonable charge time we like these.

Portable Power Charges

Sometimes referred to as power blocks, these also vary in size, available power reserve and price. They’re great for keeping a mobile phone camera charged and ready to use. We have used many different sizes and found that these give the best balance of power to cost without having to pack too many.

Batteries

Whether you just put fresh batteries in that headlamp or not, bring along an extra set of batteries. You may be going out for only a few days but a flashlight or headlamp that is dead is one of those things that couldn’t be more useless.

Extra Camera Batteries

Many cameras use proprietary batteries. If you plan to take lots of photos, be sure to bring those extra battery packs along. You don’t want to get to the most memorable moment of the trip only to have a camera without power.

15. Other Essentials — Things You’ll Wish You Hadn’t Forgotten

Flashlightor Headlamp

The deck of our windjammer cruise was lighted at night with beautiful kerosene lamps and your cabin will have a small LED lamp over each berth (so generally, 2 lights per cabin). If you want to visit the head (toilet) during the night or spend some time reading in your bunk, you’ll appreciate the better light from a flashlight or a headlamp. We prefer these headlamps for reading and writing whether in a sleeping bag or a bunk. They can always double as a handheld flashlight and are small and easy to pack.

Deck Seats

Some of our fellow passengers brought along these really cool lightweight, padded deck seats, the kind you’d use at a stadium game. If you like having a back to your seat while you read, these are a great idea.

Binoculars

Sometimes that scenic coastline or lighthouse is waaaay over there. Or what kind of seabird was that? Much of your time is going to be spent staring out across the water. An inexpensive compact pair of binoculars make will make this trip so much more enjoyable. If you already have a pair, don’t forget to pack them. If not, check these out.

Ear Plugs

You just met the folks in the cabin next to yours. They seem really nice. But what’s that noise while you’re trying to sleep? Oh no, a snorer! Try not to get annoyed or obsess about the coming night. Enjoy your time on board to the max by packing ear plugs. They’re inexpensive and they work. And the disposable kind fit easily in with your toiletries.

So there you have it — you should be packed and ready in no time at all! You might already own most everything you need to go sailing in Maine whether it’s on a windjammer cruise or a day sailor on Penobscot Bay. But there may be an extra item or two to pick up, so go ahead and treat yourself. This cruise may be the trip of a lifetime. Or if you’re like us, you just might get hooked, and you’ll be planning your next cruise as soon as you’re home!

Bon Voyage!

]]>What to Pack for Summer Sailing on Your Maine Windjammer CruiseA Visit to The Olson House: Maine Through the Eyes of Andrew WyethTravel GuidesUSALori SorrentinoMon, 01 Jul 2019 12:05:06 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/olson-house-maine53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d024bb254e8ee0001423c36Step into Andrew Wyeth’s Christina’s World at the Olson House in Cushing,
Maine for a unique glimpse into the history and story behind the most
famous painting in American history. This incredible tour offers an
intimate portrait of the woman in the painting and the artist who
immortalized her life forever.

Andrew Wyeth is one of America’s most prolific and successful artists of our time. He’s also, surprisingly to me, one of the most critically panned. I first learned of him as a college student in rural eastern Pennsylvania, where Wyeth also lived and painted so many of his famous works. To me, his body of work epitomized the grayness of Pennsylvania in wintertime when the cold drains the color from the landscape, and the snow and ice finish it off. The houses and fieldstone barns of places like the Kuerner farm in the Brandywine Valley were a favorite subject and he created some of his most famous paintings there like Trodden Weed (1951), Evening at Kuerners (1970) and countless others.

It was also in college when I fell in love with Christina’s World. The girl across the hall from me had an oversized poster of it plastered on her wall, like a window to some faraway world, and I’d gravitate between a feeling of calm and an unsettling desire to escape whenever I’d look at it. There was something about that woman reclining in the field. As a young student, the painting moved me — enough for me to notice, and continue to stare.

The Olson House

Fast forward to Maine around 1995 where we’d gone summer camping in South Thomaston near Rockland for several years. One particularly beautiful day on our way to scout parts of the area we’d never seen before, we came upon a stark but beautiful old cedar-shingled house on a hill overlooking a cove at the water’s edge. There were people coming and going from the house for what appeared to be an Open House? A sign out front read Olson House, and we wandered in behind them to check out the real estate scene in the tiny hamlet of Cushing. Imagine our surprise as the light went off in our heads when a tour guide told us the history of the house.

Mind. Blown.

Christina’s World (1948), Andrew Wyeth. Click to view detail from original at MoMA, NYC.

Christina’s World, painted in 1948 and now owned by the Museum of Modern Art in New York, is one of Andrew Wyeth’s masterpieces, perhaps his most recognizable work, and the one painting that draws some of his most vocal critics for various reasons. It has ironically been called “a mandatory dorm room poster”, derided as insulting and exploitative to persons with disabilities, and even parodied by Mad Magazine. But to those who love it, a visit to the Olson House in Maine is a must — not just a memorable excursion or a nice ride in the country. Seeing the homestead that was home to Christina Olson and her brother Alvaro, hearing the historic details, and gazing across that hay field brings new life and a poignant perspective to one of the most important works of art Wyeth ever created. The Olson House was designated a National Historic Landmark in 2011, and today is part of the renowned Farnsworth Museum — together they’re two of the most interesting things to do in Rockland, Maine for Wyeth fans and art lovers.

In the portraits of that house, the windows are eyes or pieces of the soul almost. To me, each window is a different part of Christina’s life.

— Andrew Wyeth

The Olsons

The Hathorn-Olson House was built in the late 1700s by Captain Samuel Hathorn II (1750) though it was altered in 1871 by his grandson who added several upper floor bedrooms and a steep pitched roof. The home sits on Hathorn Point in Cushing bordered by the St. George River and Maple Juice Cove and leads out to Muscongus Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. In 1892, when an early freeze forced a young sailor named John Olson ashore, he met Katie Hathorn and her mother who lived in the house. At 34, Katie was considered to be destined for spinsterhood, but his visit changed all that. They had two children in their marriage, Alvaro and Anna Christina, who inherited the property in 1929.

As a child Christina Olson had been afflicted with a degenerative muscular disease once thought to be the result of polio, but now believed to have been Charcot-Marie-Tooth Disorder. The disease gradually crippled her body and left her paralyzed from the waist down. She shunned the use of a wheelchair, preferring instead to crawl around the house and property, dragging herself up and down the stairs. Remarkably, she would even regularly visit her family’s gravesite across the road at the bottom of the hill overlooking the cove.

I just couldn’t stay away from there. I did other pictures while I knew them but I’d always seem to gravitate back to the house. … It was Maine.

— Andrew Wyeth

The Wyeths

Although Andrew Wyeth was originally from Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania, Maine was home to his wife Betsy, and it was here at the Olson House where they first met in 1939. Betsy and her family were friends and neighbors of Christina and Alvaro Olson, and Andrew was immediately taken with them and the property. It was the sight of Christina crawling through the fields picking blueberries “like a crab on a New England shore” that inspired him to paint Christina’s World. For 30 years, Andrew and Betsy summered in Maine, and maintained a close friendship with the Olsons. Andrew used an upstairs room in the house as a studio and featured Christina, Alvaro, and the house in many paintings and lithographs. Throughout his lifetime he painted and sketched in many mediums but his unique style bears a signature austere look and feel, as if haunted by ghosts of the Pennsylvania countryside and coastal Maine.

The challenge to me was to do justice to her extraordinary conquest of a life which most people would consider hopeless. If in some small way I have been able in paint to make the viewer sense that her world may be limited physically but by no means spiritually, then I have achieved what I set out to do.

— Andrew Wyeth

Olson House Tours

Olson House, Cushing Maine - 384 Hathorn Point Road

Today, the home is listed on the National Historic Register. Wyeth fans and art lovers can tour the Olson House to learn the history of the family, the home, and the connection to Andrew and Betsy Wyeth. We visited the house again after the Maine windjammer cruise we took recently from nearby Rockland, and it was even better taking a guided tour — the expertise and nuance added by our docent made all the difference. The red geraniums Christina adored still bloom inside the kitchen near the original Glenwood stove. Alvaro’s dingy still rests in the loft of the attached barn, and you can wander through the home at your leisure. The house is empty but for a few pieces of furniture, the stove, and other small items. But we were most struck by the unique way in which the tour is set up — offering visitors Wyeth’s view from every room and an interpretive panel on his resulting work, or a photo of him with Christina and Alvaro nearby.

The Olson House is open to the public from the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend through the Sunday of Columbus Day weekend, Wednesdays through Sundays, noon to 5 pm with tours on the hour. The last tour begins at 4 pm. On Thursdays, the 4 pm tour is replaced by a special talk by David Rockwell, Andrew Wyeth’s nephew.

If you’re lucky, you’ll have Nancy as your docent. Her tour was so detailed and captivating — akin to her channeling the many ghosts that no doubt have settled in over the years!

PLEASE NOTE:

The Olson House is not wheelchair accessible and parking is limited.

Please respect the rights of private property owners by restricting your visit to the Olson House site only. The barn, field and cemetery across the road are private property not owned by the museum.

Final Resting Place

In addition to the Olson and Hathorn families, the property is also the final resting place of Andrew Wyeth, a testament to his love of Maine, the Olsons, and the ties that bind the Wyeth family there. You’ll see his grave stone first as you reach the bottom of the hill, made from smooth bluestone and void of any epitaph — as austere as the art he created.

The cemetery property is across the street from the house and down the hill from the house itself — it is private property and not owned by the Museum. You may visit the cemetery, though please be respectful and stick to the mowed paths down to the water.

Are you a fan of Andrew Wyeth, his father N.C. Wyeth or son Jamie Wyeth? Share your story or Maine memory below!

]]>A Visit to The Olson House: Maine Through the Eyes of Andrew WyethAwesome Things to Do in Rockland, Maine for Food and Art LoversTravel GuidesUSALori and Angelo SorrentinoMon, 24 Jun 2019 13:13:07 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/things-to-do-in-rockland-maine53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d018e3b679451000161db3aWhether you’re an art lover, foodie, adventure traveler or all of the
above, there are so many unique things to do in Rockland, Maine, the jewel
of mid-coast Maine. From world-class art museums and unique sculpture
trails to some of the tastiest food travel in the country, Rockland is a
scenic drive from Portland and a must-see in coastal Maine.

We made our first visit to Rockland in mid coast Maine around 1995 to check out this lobster festival we’d been hearing about. It wasn’t far from the beautiful and touristy Camden, but we liked that Rockland was quieter, plus it was cheaper to stay since it wasn’t right on Penobscot Bay. We loved it enough to keep going back for years afterward, exploring the local villages and secluded lobster pounds tucked back off the fingers of land that jut out into Maine’s craggy coastline. Highway 1 runs along the coast from Freeport to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park (and beyond) but one turn off the highway can take you exploring for hours just to bring you back to the same point again on the highway.

At the time, the Wyeth family had long been making artistic waves in Rockland, Cushing, and Monhegan Island, but the Farnsworth Museum was more of a hidden gem. The local dining scene was still pretty local, with a few diners serving comfort food and always delicious homemade blueberry pie. Places like Jess’ Market were our go-to for fresh caught lobsters that we’d steam and cook on our open fire at Saltwater Farm campground in Thomaston. Then in 2000, Chef Melissa Kelly opened Primo restaurant in a quaint farmhouse outside of town and it was the first time I’d ever heard the term farm-to-table. All of a sudden it felt like people were paying attention.

We recently went back to Rockland for the first time in 15 years, and things have certainly changed. It’s no longer that sleepy town, but besides having a lot going on there’s definitely something happening here — it appears to be the epicenter of both a cool art scene and hip spot for foodies too. In fact, there are so many unique things to do in Rockland, Maine whether you’re an art lover, foodie, camper, adventure traveler or all of the above. Mid-coast is just 90 minutes or so from the Portland area so it’s easily accessible and great fun to drive if you’re up for a good old-fashioned road trip. And who isn’t when there’s lobster rolls and blueberry pie nearly every step of the way! If you haven’t been to Rockland or mid-coast Maine in a while, what are you waiting for?

Things to Do in Rockland, Maine for Food Lovers

Eat Maine Lobster

If ever there was a foodie’s food, it’s lobster from Maine, which makes Rockland one of our favorite food destinations in the USA! Because of the cold water of the north Atlantic, the flesh of Maine lobster is fresh and sweet. They’re considered the finest in the world. Lucky for you, a trip to Maine will have you eating them just about everywhere and in every way — rolls, bisque, salads, and of course steamed whole. The most popular lobster size are “chicks” (1 1/4 - 1 1/2 pounders) and can have a hefty price tag. If you’re looking to save some bucks, look for culls (that are missing a claw).

Rockland Lobster Festival

Every summer on the first weekend of August, from Wednesday through Sunday, the Camden-Rockland Lobster Festival (also referred to as the Maine Lobster Festival) attracts tens of thousands of visitors to it’s harbor looking to feast on the tasty crustacean. Now in its 72nd year (since 1947) the 5-day festival is still as much fun as any summer event can be and amazingly, admission is under $10 (free for active military with ID). 20,000 pounds of lobster is yours to enjoy before the big parade which culminates in the crowning of the Maine Sea Goddess (Sea Princesses and a Miss Congeniality too)! Getting to the festival is easy as it’s right on the harbor front, but if you don’t feel like driving, take the Rally Bus from points throughout New England right to the Festival.

Visit a Lobster Pound

A lobster pound is the storage facility built right at a dock or waterfront to hold lobsters until they’re sold, and they’re an interesting way to see the Maine lobster industry up close. You may feel like you’re trespassing since they are working facilities, but most of them welcome visitors to walk around and buy lobsters directly from them! The huge holding tanks have fresh seawater being constantly pumped through which hold lobsters by weight/size so orders for restaurants and markets can be more easily filled. The most common size lobsters are in the 1.25 to 1.50 pound range called “chicks”. Legal criteria on size is strictly enforced and any lobster found to be too small or too large is returned to the sea. Most people don’t know that a lobster can be too large, that is, with a measured carapace length of over 5 inches. This is done to protect the breeding stock and ensure that lobsters are not overfished. You can buy lobsters directly from most pounds to take back to your campsite or cabin, and many also have on-site restaurants where you sit on the water and eat lobster and other Maine specialties to your heart’s content.

Check Out the Best Restaurants in Rockland

There are lots of good places to eat in Rockland, Maine but these are a few of our favorites.

Primo - For almost 20 years, Chef Melissa Kelly has been creating her signature farm fresh cuisine simply and elegantly. Reserve early. It’s as popular as ever. 2 Main Street, Rockland

In Good Company - A tasteful and casual urban space serving contemporary American cuisine in the heart of downtown. The house-made pasta and fish special were fresh and beautiful. Even the appetizers like the Deviled eggs with smoked paprika were unique and delicious. 415 Main Street, Rockland

Cafe Miranda -This is one place with something for everyone. But don’t let the huge menu throw you — they seem to wear their multi-cultural hats equally well, from the tasty Asian-inspired dishes to homey comfort foods like their take on Pierogi casserole. 15 Oak Street, Rockland

Main Street Markets - A great place on Main Street for freshly prepared salads and house-made specialties, an excellent selection of wines and craft beers to go or eat-in. This is the place where perfect picnics are made! 435 Main Street, Rockland

Go Wine Tasting at Cellardoor Winery

Lincolnville may be quieter than Rockland or Camden but don’t pass it by. Outdoor enthusiasts can rent kayaks or hike the miles of trails in the nature preserve at Lake Megunticook. But the draw here for food and wine lovers is Cellardoor Winery, which has tastings and wine events in their 200-year old beautifully restored barn. And don’t miss Beyond the Sea for great down home cooking while you browse through the new and used books. It’s a really unique place and worth a visit. 367 Youngtown Rodd, Lincolnville, ME

Drink Beer at Rock Harbor Brewing

The Rock Harbor Pub & Brewing Company on Main Street is a fun place to hang out and try some good craft beer. Beers are brewed on site and if you happen to be there when the owner is, he’ll gladly show you where the magic happens. 416 Main Street, Rockland

Take a Maine Windjammer Cruise on the J. & E. Riggin

Windjammer cruises for food lovers? This isn’t just any windjammer cruise. Sailing on the Schooner J. & E. Riggin with Chef Annie Mahle’s gourmet cuisine is a dream for foodies and adventure lovers alike! Windjammer cruises go where the wind and tides want to take you and there are 9 schooner cruises you can take out of Rockland and Camden, Maine. But if you’re looking for amazing food, get onboard the Riggin. We went on their Lobsters & Lighthouses cruise and the food was incredible. But Captains Jon Finger and Annie Mahle also run themed cruise for foodies — check out the food cruises offered on the Riggin from late May through early October. Chef Annie is also a renowned author with several cookbooks to her credit, all inspired by the fresh ingredients and coastal flavors of Maine. If you’ve been wondering what this kind of cruise is like, check out our review of our 4-day Maine windjammer cruise aboard the Riggin, an amazing travel experience and incredible way to see and savor Maine. Captain Spear Drive, Rockland

Things to Do in Rockland, Maine for Art Lovers

Visit the Farnsworth Museum

The William A. Farnsworth Library and Art Museum opened in Rockland in 1948, thanks to Lucy Farnsworth who bequeathed the bulk of her sizable estate to establish the community’s first art museum and library. Lucy’s family was prominent in town, and their home in town (the Farnsworth Homestead) is now part of the Farnsworth complex which includes gallery, administrative, and educational space, the Farnsworth Library, the historic Olson House in Cushing, Julia’s Gallery for Young Artists, and the Wyeth Center featuring works of Andrew, N.C. and Jamie Wyeth. Today, the Library and Art Museum — known simply as the Farnsworth Art Museum — is the only center dedicated solely to American and Maine-inspired art, with over 20,000 square feet of gallery space and boasting over 15,000 works in the collection. The Farnsworth is open year-round. 16 Museum Street, Rockland, ME

Langlais Sculpture Park, Cushing

The Langlais Sculpture Preserve is a nature and sculpture park in Cushing, Maine which celebrates the legacy of Bernard Langlais and the natural resources of the Cushing peninsula. It’s part of the larger Langlais Art Trail that stretches along coastal Maine as far north as Eastport and south near Portsmouth and features reliefs, scultures, and other artworks of various mediums. Langlais has an interesting history — beginning his career as a commercial abstract fine artist in NYC before scraping it all to return to his native Maine where he began creating his famous oversized wooden sculptures. His style is rudimentary and rustic, reminiscent of Native American and Inuit-inspired art. The Preserve in Cushing is part of Langlais’s homestead, and retains several of Langlais’s outdoor sculptures in situ, including the thirteen-foot Horse, Langlais’s first monumental outdoor work and a landmark of Cushing’s River Road; his satirical depiction of Richard Nixon in a marshy pond; and his sculptural homage to Christina Olson, the local woman featured in Andrew Wyeth’s 1948 masterpiece, Christina’s World, among other works. The grounds in Cushing are open daily from dawn to dusk. 576 River Rd, Cushing, ME

The Center for Maine Contemporary Art

Wow. The Center for Maine Contemporary Art was an unexpected but welcome find in Rockland. Otherwise known as CMCA, your first impression as you walk in is only reinforced with each step through the modern gallery space inside. There’s always a fascinating exhibition or two on display, like the recent Hubris Atë Nemesisinstallation byWade Kavanaugh and Stephen B. Nguyen (March 23 - June 16, 2019). Their hands-on education program offers year round classes and workshops for all ages. The Center is in the heart of downtown Rockland, and steps from the harbor front. 21 Winter Street, Rockland, ME

Experience Andrew Wyeth’s Maine at the Olson House

As if the Farnsworth Museum and traipsing the rugged coast of mid-coast Maine weren’t enough to satisfy your lust for a Wyeth-like experience, a visit to the Olson House just might set you over the top. Home to Alvaro Olson and his sister Christina, Wyeth’s subject of his haunting masterpiece Christina’s World, the original farmhouse and that field across the road is located in nearby Cushing not far from downtown Rockland.

Today, as part of the Farnsworth Museum complex, the property is open to the public and preserved forever for Wyeth lovers to spend hours exploring and pondering. It’s also a must-visit to see the final resting place of the artist himself, down the hill in the Olsen family cemetery. 384 Hathorne Point Road, Cushing, ME

Day Trips from Rockland, Maine

Boothbay Harbor

Boothbay has it’s share of shops and some excellent seafood restaurants some of which are run by one of the lobster pounds. The Maine State Aquarium is here and is worth a visit. Take the ferry boat or rent a kayak and paddle out to the historic Burnt Island Lighthouse and Keepers House for a tour. Pack a picnic and have lunch up on the hill with great views of the harbor.

Camden

Camden may be a bit artsy but it has it’s share of excellent restaurants and cafes as well along with the High Street Historic District. Looking for something outdoorsy? Hike one of the many trails on Mt. Battie and Camden Hills State Park. The views of Camden Harbor from the top are amazing. Stop by the Sea Dog Brewing Company or Blaze Brewing for lunch and try some of their refreshing crafted beers.

Port Clyde

Port Clyde, once a working port for granite and timber along with a shipbuilding business and sardine cannery, is now home to mostly artists and writers. The area has seen better economic times but there are a few good places to eat and the old Maine architecture of the shore homes with their flower gardens takes you back in time. This is where you catch the passenger ferry out to Monhegan Island for a great day trip that we recommend below. For a fun Instagrammable shot, check out the Marshall Point Lighthouse with its long walkway that was featured in the movie Forrest Gump.

Monhegan Island

12 miles from the mainland and an easy ferry ride from Port Clyde, New Harbor, and Boothbay Harbor, Monhegan Island is a small rocky island with no car traffic and not a lot going on. And that’s exactly why you should go. The rustic island is a hikers and art lovers paradise, with easy trails leading to cliffs with breathtaking views and artist studios and galleries for you to explore — definitely a keeper on your New England bucket list! Perhaps its most famous artist resident is Jamie Wyeth and his studio is a must-see. Take a hike through Cathedral Woods and see the fairy houses of Monhegan that line the path (they’re rumored to have been the first of its kind in the world), stroll around the tiny quaint village, and explore the lighthouse that’s open a few days a week.

Portland

Portland, Maine is just an hour and a half from mid-coast Maine, making it an easy day trip from Rockland (and vice versa). Portland has become a real foodie town the past several years and is a popular destination for vacationers coming from Boston and New York. In fact, on our last trip to Maine, when our flight from Newark to Portland was cancelled due to heavy storms, we rented a car and did the 6-hour NYC to Maine road trip to make our Windjammer cruise on time — not a bad drive at all. Portland has great shopping, including the LL Bean flagship store in nearby Freeport, plus it’s just 8.5 miles to the picturesque Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse. Did you know mid-coast Maine was so close to Portland?

Where to Stay in Rockland, Maine

250 Main Hotel, 250 Main Street, Rockland, Maine

Looking to overnight at one of the coolest Rockland Maine hotels? The 250 Main Hotel is it! Located in the heart of just about everything to see in Rockland and across the street from the harbor, this modern boutique hotel is designed with an industrial decor reminiscent of boat building, and makes use of repurposed materials. Its 26 rooms are conveniently located on Main Street overlooking the water.

While the rooms are modern, they’re also well-designed and oh-so comfortable. We loved the excellent attention to detail like the luxurious Malin & Goetz toiletries, the bedside tablet, the overhead dim lighting, and the huge walk-in shower with that rainfall shower head. After 4 days on a Maine windjammer cruise, that hot shower never felt so good! Guests can enjoy a complimentary glass of wine on the rooftop terrace — where the view is worth the stay alone! Restaurants are close by, and coffee and tea are available throughout the day as is fresh or sparkling water from the dispenser in the lobby using a refillable glass bottle. We loved our brief stay at this hotel and highly recommend it as one of the nicest places to stay in Rockland, Maine. Check rates and availability.

]]>Awesome Things to Do in Rockland, Maine for Food and Art LoversThe Rusticator’s Guide to Maine Windjammer Cruises: Sailing Aboard the J. & E. RigginUSATravel GuidesSlow TravelLori and Angelo SorrentinoMon, 17 Jun 2019 14:16:49 +0000https://www.travlinmad.com/blog/maine-windjammer-cruises-j-e-riggin53b839afe4b07ea978436183:53bbeeb2e4b095b6a428a13e:5d013f2ee9c405000103916dMaine windjammer cruises may just be the ultimate in slow travel. This
Rusticators Guide has what you need for sailing aboard the Schooner J & E
Riggin in Rockland, Maine, one of the most eco-friendly and adventurous
travel experiences we’ve ever had. Their 3-7 day sailing vacations and
themed Maine cruises through Penobscot Bay are perfect for your next
adventure!

Ready on the peak! Ready on the throat! 

Foresails on the J. & E. Riggin

Hand over hand, higher and higher, the heavy canvas sail raises and billows, fluttering louder as it catches the wind.

Maine Windjammer cruises are famous in this region of Penobscot Bay and sailing on one is a lot like stepping back in time. We’d been camping near Rockland and Camden for years but didn’t know much about the Maine Windjammer ships other than watching them sail majestically by Owls Head or Rockland Breakwater Lighthouses and dreaming of one day being onboard. So when we were invited to go on a 4-day Lighthouses and Lobsters cruise recently with Captains Jon Finger and Annie Mahle onboard their schooner, the J. & E. Riggin, we jumped at the chance. As we pulled out of Rockland Harbor, we thanked the weather gods for blessing us with blue skies in early June and a clear forecast for the next few days. The sails went up and the crew scurried about tightening lines and stowing ropes, while the rest of us 22 passengers watched in awe, stepping aside as they worked around us, and began to settle in to the gentle bobbing rhythm and the sound of the sea swishing against the hull. It’s an incredible feeling to be on the deck of a massive wooden schooner as it comes to life and begins to set sail on the open water.

We’re the modern day Rusticators — what Mainers called out-of-state summer vacationers who flocked to coastal Maine in the late 1800’s and who artist Winslow Homer famously tried to scare away from his coastal home with a sign that read “Snakes! Snakes!…and Mice!” We were setting sail on a windjammer cruise for the rocky islands and hidden coves along coastal Maine and it didn’t take long for us to realize just how rustic it might be. Our cell phones showed no signs of life. What on earth would we do for days on end with no reception? And what is that deafening sound? Other than the gentle wind, there was simply… silence. As the days wore on, we sailed near an occasional wifi hot spot or borrowed bits of solar power from our fellow passengers, but soon realized this was exactly the point of the cruise. To unplug, reenergize ourselves, travel slow, and connect with new friends over tasty food, lively conversation, spirited music, and a good book or bottle of wine.

Hark, now hear the sailor’s cry, Smell the sea and feel the sky. Let your soul and spirit fly into the mystic.

What Are Maine Windjammer Cruises?

The term ‘windjammer’ refers to a large schooner-type ship propelled by sails, and cruises where the destinations are influenced by the winds and tides. There are windjammer cruises around the world including the Bahamas and Caribbean, but Maine has nine such ships based in Rockland and Camden which run schooner cruises on Penobscot Bay. Some of these schooners were at one time true merchant ships engaged in fishing and oystering along the United States’ eastern seaboard. Several are historic working vessels built in the late 1800s and early 1900s that have been outfitted to be the passenger cruising vessels that you now see. One of the newest in the fleet — the Angelique — was recently built in 1980. The schooners vary a bit in size, accommodations, and the number of guests that can be hosted, but all of these Maine cruises invite participation in helping to crew the ship to whatever extent a guest feels comfortable.

But why Maine? The Pine Tree State’s distinguished maritime history was once dominated by these merchant sailing vessels. Today they allow passengers to see the beauty of Maine’s rugged coastline, its many islands and the historic lighthouses that dot Penobscot Bay while experiencing living aboard a windjammer schooner if only for a few days.

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The J & E Riggin Schooner

We sailed aboard the J. & E. Riggin Schooner named for Jacob and Edward, the sons of the original owner, Charles Riggin. Originally used for dredging oysters on the Delaware Bay, she is considered a fast light air schooner. But she didn’t always look this pretty. The dredged oysters were once dumped in the midship deck area where there are now cabins. Today, Captains Jon and Annie run 3, 4, 6 and 7-day eco-friendly sailing vacations around Penobscot Bay. From our first steps on board, the boat looked spotlessly clean and tidy with all ropes coiled and the painted surfaces gleaming. Despite the historic atmosphere and lack of electricity, the ship is equipped with modern navigation equipment and outfitted to comfortably accommodate 24 guests below deck. Sailing on the Riggin might just be one of the very best ways there is to experience slow travel, and travel with people who are committed to conservation and sustainability. Captains Jon and Annie practice the adage ‘Take only photos, leave only footprints’ both on board and on land to protect this pristine environment.

Mother, mother ocean, I have heard you call. Wanted to sail upon your waters since I was three feet tall. You’ve seen it all, you’ve seen it all 

— Jimmy Buffett, a Pirate Looks at Forty

Our 4-Day Cruise Itinerary and Anchorages

After checking in on the boat Thursday evening, we were introduced to Captains Jon and Annie and the crew Chlöe, Louie, and Liza. Captain Jon gave us all a thorough briefing on safety instructions and what to expect during our trip, and then we headed into town for dinner and to pick up a few items like snacks and wine. Since windjammer cruises are dependent on the weather, wind, and tides to determine their itinerary, our 4-day cruise may differ slightly from yours but here is an overview of where we sailed and anchored:

Day 1: Hell’s Half Acre Island

Ship’s Log:

At 7:00am fresh brewed coffee and hot water for tea were waiting for us along with fresh baked muffins still warm from the oven of the galley’s cast iron stove. After a good night’s sleep onboard and our first Chef Annie breakfast, we departed Rockland Harbor at 10:30 am with the ship’s diesel powered tender first pulling then pushing the boat. Once clear of the harbor and the Rockland Breakwater and Lighthouse, sails were set and we were underway. There wasn’t much wind on this day but enough to get us across Penobscot Bay to North Haven Island. Along the way we passed Owls Head Lighthouse, countless brightly colored lobster pot buoys, cormorants, harbor seals, and osprey nests on small rock islands. We passed the Fox Channel Islands, North Haven and Vinalhaven, and made our way through the Fox Island Thorofare passing Browns Head Lighthouse at the start of the channel and the Goose Rock Lighthouse as we made our way onto more open water. Once across the East Penobscot Bay we passed the town of Stonington at the southern tip of Deer Isle, and Crotch Island where granite is still being cut. Because of its Italian ancestry, there is a popular Opera House in Stonington where renowned opera stars still perform. Our first lunch was served underway.

At 5:00pm, Captain Jon dropped anchor sheltered by Hell’s Half Acre Island. After some light hors d’oeuvres, we enjoyed our first dinner onboard and it was really incredible. The evening water was calm but still only 49° and one intrepid passenger dove in for a quick dip, while the rest of us enjoyed the warmth of the bright sun on deck. But as the sun set, the temperature quickly dropped with it and the chilly breeze picked up. Time to add more layers. The clear night was beautiful with so many stars overhead. Some of us had a little wine. After a day in the sun and wind, and with our bellies now full, most everyone went off to their cabins by 9:30pm. It’s amazing how easy it is to fall asleep with the gentle motion of the boat at anchor.

Day 2: Babson Island and A Lobster Bake

Ship’s Log:

We were struck by how early it gets light in Maine compared to our home in Florida. Out on deck for a crisp walk to the restroom (head) at 5:00am and it was already bright and sunny. Sometime during the night the boat had swung on anchor and was now facing in the opposite direction. We heard our shipmates chatting on deck at around 7:00am so up we went for coffee and Annie’s morning surprise, cranberry chocolate scones. We could have stopped there but breakfast appeared right on time at 8:00am.

Our sail to Brooklin was as scenic as coastal Maine gets. Small rocky islands adorned with pine trees, many with cormorants, gulls, and seals taking a nap in the sun. We had good wind, a gentle sea and Captain Jon took us in close for a view of the Bass Harbor Lighthouse, one of the most photographed lighthouses in Maine. Bass Harbor is the gateway to Acadia National Park, camping on Mount Desert Island, the famous Cadillac Mountain, and the tourist town of Bar Harbor. In this setting on this day in the sun the lighthouse was really beautiful. We reversed course and the Captain put us at anchor at 4:30pm off the uninhabited Babson Island.

Tonight was to be a night that Maine dreams are made of!

THE LOBSTER BAKE

We’d heard some repeat passengers talk about the Down East lobster bake on the beach, and as we gazed out at secluded Babson Island, we couldn’t believe we’d have the entire island for our feast! It was a gorgeous place to explore and relax over dinner. Captain Jon delivered the crew members to the island in the ship’s tender with everything they needed to start the wood fire and get set up. The rest of us were ferried six at a time bringing along our beverages of choice like wine, water, and of course, rum. We were on the last trip and when we arrived the fire was going and the lobsters and ears of corn were in a metal washtub with a bit of water covered by a thick blanket of seaweed. While things were cooking we took time to hike part of the nature trail that winds around the small island. Pine trees covered with lichen and moss lined the path and bits of clam and crab shells from feeding seagulls littered the ground. In the middle of the island was an open field strewn with granite boulders and bright with knee high baby green ferns. Annie told us how her girls loved running through this field when they were little and not even as tall as the ferns — we giggled just thinking about that. It was so peaceful here aside from the ever present mosquitoes who seemed as hungry as we were.

Back on the beach, it was time to welcome the guests of honor, those now bright orange lobsters who gave their all so we could feast. A steaming bed of seaweed was laid first, then over went the tub. Lobsters and corn were stacked for optimal photo beautiousness! Everyone got a lobster, an ear of corn, baked potato, and a small cup of melted butter to start — and some salad greens if you wanted. But more than a few hungry lobster lovers went back for seconds, thirds, and more. If you’ve never had corn on the cob steamed with seaweed and lobsters, you’re in for a real treat. For folks who didn’t care for lobster or who don’t eat shellfish, Chef Annie had prepared a delicious sausage paella, which was out of this world! In keeping with the Riggin’s eco-friendly philosophy, when the bake was over and it was time to go back to the boat, we left only footprints. Not even the remains of our fire could be seen since the fire was built on a metal fire pan and the ashes and unburned wood hauled back to the boat. As for the lobster shells, they were given a quiet burial at sea. As if tonight’s lobster bake wasn’t fabulous enough, back on the boat the fiery sunset that lit up the sky went on forever, and the water was as calm as glass. Everyone seemed to simply bask in the glow of our amazing day, very aware of how fortunate we were to have had such great weather.

Day 3: Brooklin, North Haven Island, and Pulpit Harbor

Waking up on a big sailboat on a beautiful morning is something special. The calm water remained this morning and we heard the sounds of loons and gulls. A seal’s head broke the calm surface, and the smell of the sea was thick in the air. Some of our shipmates decided to go ashore to visit the small town of Brooklin, famous for its wooden boat building. On their return, sails were set and we were off. The wind had picked up and things were a bit choppy, windy and cold on deck. Some folks opted for their cabins, others went down to the galley to stay warm, help out and read.

Captain Jon got us across the bay to our next anchorage at Pulpit Harbor at North Haven Island without too much spray coming over the bow. At the entrance to the protected harbor was Pulpit Rock, a small but tall chunk of rock sticking up out of the water. At first you might think this is just another seastack that are so common along these shores, but this one is unique. Pulpit Rock is famous for the ginormous osprey nest that’s been documented in this spot for nearly 200 years, and ospreys are still nesting there. This was the first time we anchored in a place with other boats around us, mostly private power and sailboats along with a few working lobster boats as well.

This was our last night onboard and as is customary on the Riggin, it ends with fun and songs. Captain Jon played his guitar while he, Annie, Chlöe, and sometimes Louie, sang sailing songs and sea shanties (sung while working on the old sailing ships to keep a steady rhythm, like when raising the sails). This was such a fun night and a great way to bring our sailing adventure to a close.

Day 4: Homeward Bound to Rockland!

Because of the previous day’s wind and sea conditions, we got an earlier start to the day. There was far more activity on deck around 6:30am instead of the usual quiet chatter. Folks were busy lowering the awning, and the crew was getting ready to raise the anchor and hoist the sails. With a hand-over-hand and a 2-6-heave, sails were hoisted and we were underway by 8:00am.

Once on open water it was much different than the day before. The sun was bright but the wind was cold as we headed for the Riggin’s home port of Rockland. In 4 days of sailing, we’d criss-crossed the islands in Penobscot Bay and had ourselves quite an adventure, though it now seemed way too short as we entered Rockland Harbor. Tying up to the dock we felt relaxed and exhilarated, but a little sad at the same time that it was ending so quickly.

Meals and Food

Sailing on the J. & E. Riggin is made even more special with Chef Annie Mahle’s cooking. It’s a well-known distinction that sets the Riggin apart from other Maine windjammer cruises. In fact, her cooking is so well-known, it comes as no surprise that she’s also a celebrated cookbook author as well! There was so much good food on this cruise, and to see how she prepares it all in the tiny 6 x 6’ galley space is even more amazing.

Our days began with fresh coffee or assorted hot teas, followed by breakfast appeteasers like freshly baked danish, cinnamon muffins, and cranberry chocolate scones. Lest you think that’s all there is to start your day, you might be inclined to overindulge, but then Annie rings the bell 3 times to signal that the full meal is onboard! One thing we really loved was her introduction to the food. After the bell is rung, she describes what’s on the menu, where it came from, and how it was prepared. Some of the food Annie serves is grown in her own garden and she also belongs to a CSA (community-supported agriculture) network of 30-40 growers and producers in the Rockland area who produce food organically and sustainably. How awesome is that! While not everything served onboard is completely organic, her dishes were all fresh, creative, and locally-sourced, not to mention beautifully presented! Entrees always included freshly prepared sauces and were surrounded by small garnishes of fresh flowers or herbs. Trust us, you won’t go hungry. And while you may think you need to stock up on snacks in your cabin, we never felt the urge to eat a single one.

Here are examples of some of her tempting menu items:

Breakfast: Buttermilk pancakes, Annie’s homemade granola, fresh fruits, breakfast frittatas, bacon, and oatmeal. Being oatmeal lovers, we found Annie’s version unique and yummy. First, she pan sautés the dry oats in a little butter before cooking them with water, giving them a nuttier flavor. Top the oatmeal with hot apples and raisins, a drizzle of almond milk and it was an incredible breakfast.

Dessert: Shortcakes with a rhubarb cherry sauce and fresh whipped cream. Blueberry lemon cake that was absolutely yummy. Lemon white chocolate cheese cake. Spiced ginger whoopee pies with marshmallow fluff in the middle (and a small bowl of rum to dip the pie if you’re so inclined)!

What’s Not Included: Alcoholic beverages are not provided, but you are welcome to bring your own onboard. There are plenty of shops in Rockland to buy beer, wine, and anything else you might want, and a cooler onboard to keep your beverages cold.

Cabins and Accommodations

The cabins onboard are very small, but comfortable. There is a small basin with cold running water and because we were in Cabin 1 in the bow, a small foot pump to drain the water. Each of our two berths were about the size of a sleeping bag. There are nine cabins with two single berths, two cabins with three single berths, and two cabins with double berths. If you’re in the top bunk, watch your head and don’t sit up too quickly. All it takes is one good whack and you’ll move more slowly! OUCH!! As for floor space, there really isn’t any, just room to stand up and turn around.

Our tiny cabin wasn’t a surprise to us but it reminded us why they suggest you bring a soft duffel and pack light. We stowed our small bags under the bottom bunk after moving what clothing we might need to two small shelves at the foot of our bunks. The folks in the cabin across from us resorted to leaving their door open most of the time. I guess it gave the illusion of more room. But hey, you’re on an almost 100-year old working schooner — in its heyday this would have been considered luxurious. As for other cabins, it’s bad manners to peek into someone else’s cabin, but we heard no complaints. Everyone seemed to have their expectations in line and were enjoying their accommodations as part of the experience. It doesn’t take long to get used to your quarters and it’s truly part of the fun.

Oh, the canvas can do miracles, just you wait and see. Believe me.

— Christopher Cross, Sailing

What Is It Like Sailing on a Maine Windjammer Cruise?

Life Onboard

You’ll spend about six hours each day under sail meandering through the islands and bays of mid-coast Maine, and every afternoon the captain will drop anchor in a safe, snug harbor off a quiet fishing village or an uninhabited island. There are plenty of places to sit and chat throughout the day including the galley (kitchen) where there are tables with lots of seating along with a small library. The galley is a popular place to be if you want to chat over food and see what’s coming out of the cast iron stove next. Just know that if Annie is in the galley prepping for the next meal, you might just become a volunteer. Put down your book and pick up a paring knife to help out and maybe learn a song or two.

On deck, there is plenty of room to move around and quiet places to sit. Even at mealtime when underway, finding a comfortable spot was never a problem. Some folks brought along their own padded stadium seats made for sitting on bleachers. They seemed comfortable enough but there is a downside. They’re lightweight and on a sailboat, so if it gets windy enough there’s a chance it could go overboard.

It only takes a day to lose track of time. You rise and sleep with the sun and your rhythm joins with the boat and the wind. Sun up, breakfast, weigh anchor, set sails, lunch, drop anchor, furl sails, dinner, sun down, chat, get comfy in your bunk and sleep. Nothing is hurried. Relaxing becomes the norm and the only one who stays aware of the time is the captain. True, some days are windier or colder than others, but as Captain Jon says, “That’s sailing”. Stay mindful of that and the experience will take over, not whether it’s raining or chilly.

Helping to Crew

The crew will ask if you’d like to help out and will indicate when help is needed. This was a lot of fun and truly makes you feel part of things, a participant and not just a spectator. Just about everyone took a turn at helping to raise and lower the sails with lots of smiles and high fives at our success. Raising the anchor is something else altogether. It takes a strong back and legs and can leave you huffing and puffing, but was still fun for those who jumped in. When you feel you’d like to try your hand at something, just ask a crew member. They’ll either give you direction, or if the time isn’t appropriate they’ll at least explain what they’re doing. The crew was always friendly, courteous, and incredibly adept at what they do. If the on-deck chores are not your cup of tea, Chef Annie is always grateful for help in the galley.