Yeah this is the second brand new engine and am having the same exact problem. It seems like when I tune it just right I can get it to where it wants to stay running, but still is not right. I have isolated the problem directly to the engine.(I have a full 2 page list of things that I have did and tried, but I wont get into all of that. I do not have too many good things to say about this DLE 30 Engine.

Sorry to hear about your luck with this engine. I've had real good luck with my rear carb version right out of the box.

Sounds like you have done your research on how to fix it but it still isn't working for you.
I would think that if you had a proper seal on the carb, intake, and the reeds are sealing flat on their surfaces it should run OK.
Maybe check the float needle. I bent the little alum. arm that is spring loaded on mine while cleaning the carb and didn't notice it. It flooded and wouldn't start til I got back in there and straightened it back out. I just bent it back so it is basically straight across from the spring to the needle. Don't know if that is in speck or not but it worked and no issues so far.

I assume that you have also completely disassembled the carb and blew it all out with compressed air, etc.

I had my DLE 30 in a 72" Extra 330sc but on the second flight I lost a rec. and it went through some power lines, total loss of the airframe so now I'm waiting on a 71" Slick to put everything in. Should have it Monday.

+1. that sullivan tail wheel bracket is the beast cheep tailwheel out there. just over do it with size, as in get the one made for a bigger plane then what you are putting it on and you will be extremely happy with it. no spring to mess up, nothing to come unhooked. it works perfectly

Yeah I have had some really bad luck. Dont give give me wrong I know several people that have had really good luck with the DLE 30(That is why I bought one) I just personally have owned a 71 Slick since Aug and have not been able to fly it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisK7

Sorry to hear about your luck with this engine. I've had real good luck with my rear carb version right out of the box.

Sounds like you have done your research on how to fix it but it still isn't working for you.
I would think that if you had a proper seal on the carb, intake, and the reeds are sealing flat on their surfaces it should run OK.
Maybe check the float needle. I bent the little alum. arm that is spring loaded on mine while cleaning the carb and didn't notice it. It flooded and wouldn't start til I got back in there and straightened it back out. I just bent it back so it is basically straight across from the spring to the needle. Don't know if that is in speck or not but it worked and no issues so far.

I assume that you have also completely disassembled the carb and blew it all out with compressed air, etc.

I had my DLE 30 in a 72" Extra 330sc but on the second flight I lost a rec. and it went through some power lines, total loss of the airframe so now I'm waiting on a 71" Slick to put everything in. Should have it Monday.

I Decided to go ahead a purchase the OSGT33 to put on my Slick. I have currently had the DLE on there but had nothing but bad luck. The DLE already made the Plane Nose heavy, but the OS is even heavier. I already switched to the Push/Pull but my question to you guys is how nose heavy will this end up? Does anyone have the OS on there slick??? Anything I should know?? All suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I Decided to go ahead a purchase the OSGT33 to put on my Slick. I have currently had the DLE on there but had nothing but bad luck. The DLE already made the Plane Nose heavy, but the OS is even heavier. I already switched to the Push/Pull but my question to you guys is how nose heavy will this end up? Does anyone have the OS on there slick??? Anything I should know?? All suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I have the 71 Slick with the OS33GT and am loving it. I had to move the rudder servo from pull/pull to push/pull purely for cg.
I use two 2s 1300mah lipos for the reciever and one 1300 2s for ignition (OS can run direct 2s lipo unregulated) all batteries on the rudder tray. Throttle servo as close to the fuel tank as possible. This will balance nose heavy but flys better that way. Stops on points and will 3d with no limits.
Added 20grms of lead on the tail to neutrally balance it but i felt it didnt stop on points and flew more slopy. So no added weight for balance is necessary.
Tune the highspeed to make strong power but leave a burble on the low speed.
And it loves the Falcon or mejhslick? 20x6
Have fun.

I use one 1450 mA Life mounted on the rudder pull-pull tray. Balances perfect for me (slight dive while inverted). Tuned it once when new and engine is still smooth and responsive through-out throttle range. Had it out last Saturday for first time in 3-4 months, had to flip it maybe 20 times to get primed, a few backwards starts (truly not a big deal, it will just sputter for a few seconds and then die), then fired up and ran great. Usually after first start of day, no choke, one good flip and it starts. My OS 33 is a joy compared to the three DLE30's I had.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hertzrepkeith

I Decided to go ahead a purchase the OSGT33 to put on my Slick. I have currently had the DLE on there but had nothing but bad luck. The DLE already made the Plane Nose heavy, but the OS is even heavier. I already switched to the Push/Pull but my question to you guys is how nose heavy will this end up? Does anyone have the OS on there slick??? Anything I should know?? All suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

I have an OS 33GT in my Slick also. I have the rudder servo in the rear and the ignition and reciever batteries mounted on the rudder tray. Balanced how I like it with no extra lead anywhere. I run a Vess 20a prop on mine.

Thanks Guys for the input everyone. How do you get your ignition all the way to the rudder tray?? Do you mean the Ignition Battery? Also on my slick I ran a Ultra Tech BEC and with a Badger Switch. I just ran 1 lipo for everything. Do I need to change this and run a seperate on for my Ignition? (I know it would help for counter weight)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hewey19

I have an OS 33GT in my Slick also. I have the rudder servo in the rear and the ignition and reciever batteries mounted on the rudder tray. Balanced how I like it with no extra lead anywhere. I run a Vess 20a prop on mine.