You can make this curry paste two ways — either using the whole spices, roasting and grinding them (you will need a large mortar and pestle for this) or by using ground spices. I have tested this recipe both ways and they are equally successful; already ground spices are a boon when you are pushed for time.

Method

Break the chillies, shaking out and discarding the seeds, then roast lightly in a dry frying pan. Pound using a mortar and pestle. Roast the coriander seeds until aromatic and dark brown, shaking the pan frequently or stirring. Pound in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder (if spices are pounded while hot they are easily pulverised). Roast the cumin seeds until they crackle and start to pop, then grind to a powder. Add the laos powder to the ground spices.

Parch the whole cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and mace in a dry frying pan over low heat for a few minutes, shaking the pan. If you separate the cinnamon stick into layers, it will roast more quickly. Grind all the spices using a mortar and pestle to a fine powder and combine with the previously roasted and ground ingredients. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add the dried shrimp paste and stir-fry for a minute longer, crushing it in the oil with the back of a spoon. Put this fried mixture, when it has cooled slightly, into a food processor with the lemongrass and process to a paste. If using fresh galangal, add at this stage. If necessary, add a little coconut milk or water to assist processing. Turn into a bowl and combine with the dry ground spices. The curry paste is now ready to use.

If using ready-ground spices, dry-roast the ground coriander and fennel over low heat, stirring constantly and taking care they do not burn. Roast until they turn a rich brown and have an aromatic smell. It is not necessary to roast the chilli powder or the other ground spices.

If a food processor is not available, crush the onions and garlic as much as possible after they are cooked, using a mortar and pestle, then combine with the spices.