Monkey Face via the Pioneer's Route (5.7 C0)

June 11, 2012

Wanting to take a day trip to Smith, Jen and I decided to climb the classic Monkey Face. Being raised in Eugene and seeing climbers ascend the improbable formation, Jen was excited to climb it. Here are my notes I jotted down after the climb...

Monkey Face via Pioneer's Route - 5.7 C0FA - Bohn, Fraser, ?

This classic tower is a "must do" at Smith Rocks in central Oregon. It is a slender, overhanging tower about 400' tall and resembles a monkey from a few vantage points. The rock is tuff (welded?) and very solid. The climbing is moderate with the steeper portion gained by a bolt ladder. Climbed with Jen.

Approach: From the main lot: Cross the river and follow the steep "Misery Ridge" trail to the top of the plateau. Cross on the trail until the Monkey is in view. Follow the trail steeply down and follow the obvious climber's trail to the base of the route.

P1 - Anchor belayer to bolt! Traverse right across drop to small ledge. Work up then back left toward notch. Work into vertical seam (crux) to notch, step onto exposed face and climb past bolts to belay on small ledge, "Bohn Street". ≈170' 4th -> 5.6P2 - Free climb to first bolt then aid the steep ladder into the Monkey's Mouth. ≈60' 5.6 C0. About 17 bolts.P3 - Move belay to other side of the cave. Reach out and clip blind bolt. "Panic Point". Step out and climb up steep face past bolts to ledge. ≈30' 5.7 Exposed!P4 - Boulder up. Step over gap and power to the top. ≈40' 5.4-5.5

Descent: Single rap from top to "nose". Make huge 190' rappel past mouth to packs.

Gear: Single set nuts and cams 0.5-4. Aiders and dasies. 12 draws and 2 ropes.

Thoughts: Great route. Very exposed! Aid portion takes time and Jen re-aided. Very happy to be on MONKEY FACE!

Well, once the world was full of monkeys,A long time ago.And elephants with big long trunkies,A long time ago.And the elephants swarm in the Zazafram Sea,And the monkeys swung from the zilibum tree,And life was silly as it could beA long time ago...-Shel Silverstein