Derek Lam

Derek Lam set the mood for his lovely spring collection with the first song: Bette Midler's soulful version of "Do You Want to Dance?" It's the kind of bittersweet ballad that put the audience into a wistful, romantic frame of mindjust where Lam wanted them.

The designer (a CFDA/Vogue Initiative finalist) took as his inspiration the torrid affair Helmut Newton had in Singapore with Josette, an older Belgian woman, just before World War II. The silhouettescalf-length, flowing skirts, a slightly emphasized shoulder, a true waist defined by big beltscertainly recalled that era, as did Lam's use of muted colors, fluttery georgette crepe de chine, and lace.

The overall impression was that any of these looksflowing ruffled chiffon tea gowns and tiered, polka dot Empire gowns, loose but tailored trousers, soft blouses that tied at the neckcould have come from the closet of a sophisticated European exile. But Lam made it modern with smart looks like high-waisted "coolie" jackets, slim pencil skirts, and a crimson floral print done on a light wrap coat. Soft, drifty evening skirts and gowns in subtle color combinations like chocolate and violet are certain to set hearts beating faster.