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Remove the stock transfer case from the stock tailhousing adapter. The stock tailhousing is retained along with the stock rubber crossmember support. Once the transfer case is removed, you’ll see a seal located in the stock tailhousing. This seal must be removed and discarded. Some tailhousings also had a bearing which also must be removed. Install the new oil seal into the large end of the seal adapter. The sealing lip should be facing down. The small end of the seal adapter has the same O.D. (outside diameter) as the old seal that was just removed from the stock tailhousing. The seal adapter is a press-fit into the stock tail and should now be installed. The kit comes with a new spud shaft which fits over the stock Toyota transmission 26 spline output shaft. This spud shaft has a Jeep 23 male spline on the opposite side which fits into a standard 23 spline Atlas case. When installing the spud shaft into the Toyota transmission, the spud shaft does not seal onto the new seal just previously installed. The seal contacts seal off of the Atlas input shaft. The adapter plate should now be installed onto the Atlas transfer case. The adapter plate indexes off of the Atlas front retainer

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN models: Discard moon-style hub cap. Do not re-use brake disc screws. Re-using disc screws can result in torque loss and damage to rotor and/or brake assembly. (00319b) 2. See Figure 1. Install valve stem assembly (D) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first with the WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER, following the service manual instructions. The machined grooves in the hub face indicate the primary bearing side. The front wheel should be installed so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate service parts table for your fitment and stock brake disc(s). Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in kit installation. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 7. For 2009-Later TLE/U Sidecars: Assemble the sidecar brake disc and hub cap (purchased separately) to the wheel. The brake disc is to be installed on the side of the wheel opposite the valve stem. Install wheel according to the sidecar service manual

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. or FXSTD: Discard tapered spacer. NOTE Install short valve stem (43157-83A) included in the installation kit. Discard all other valve stems. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. The side with the machined groove on the hub face is the primary bearing side for all kits except Kits 41681-07 and 40818-08. For Kit 41681-07: Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side and the machined groove is on the right side of the motorcycle. • For 2006 and later FXDWG Models: When correctly installed, the tire will be 0.08-0.2 in (2-5 mm) off of center, compared to the fender. • For 2007 and later FX Softail and 2008 and later FXDWG Models: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For 2006 and earlier FX Softail and 2007 and earlier FXDWG Models: The right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For Kit 40818-08: • Proper installation of this kit requires the separate purchase of two floating brake discs (44343-01 for 2004 – 2007 models and 44553-06A (stock) or 41500012 (polished) for 2008 and later models) and a tire (43371-07 on 2004-2008 models and 44026-09A on 2009-later models). The left side of the wheel has machined DOT markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • For 2008 and later Touring: Install bearing shim (43903- 08) under the primary bearing. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 4. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right hand wheel spacer provided in installation kit. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit in place of the tapered spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install wheel kit, stock wheel spacers and spacer provided in installation kit between the left side wheel spacer and the left fork. For all other models: Install previously removed wheel spacers. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. 5. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to verify that they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley-Davidson Wheel and Tire Cleaner, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer, such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant

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liter fuel consumption is equivalent to approx. 15 operating hours Check the bearing in the shock absorber top / replace if necessary Check the piston rod on scratches / leakage Check the static sag – before riding Check the spring Check the bump rubber Check the O-ring of the spring retainer / replace if necessary Complete maintenance of the shock absorber 10 hours 65 liter 20 hours 130 liter 30 hours 200 liter 40 hours 260 liter 50 hours 325 liter 60 hours 400 liter 70 hours 455 liter 80 hours 520 liter 90 hours 600 liter 100 hours 665 liter Adjusting the position of the compression and rebound damping Rebound damping: -Turn in the adjusting screw 1 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, low speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 2 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Compression damping, high speed: -Turn in the adjusting screw 3 in a clockwise direction all the way to the stop. -Turn back the respective number of clicks in a counterclockwise direction. Adjusting the spring preload NOTE: the spring preload is the difference between the unloaded and preloaded length of the spring. -Tighten the adjusting nut 4 with the special tool T106 until you have the prescribed spring preload. -Tighten the lock screw on the adjusting nut. Recommended periodic maintenance and inspection of the 5018 SXS/SMR Shock absorber

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Recommended Parts and Supplies 1. Sawzall or comparable cutting tool. 2. Cut-off tool or jigsaw. 3. Shop or repair manual 4. Shop supplies, (loctite-red and blue, anti-seize, etc.) 5. Assorted hand tools. 6. 4-1/2″ grinder. 7. Drive pulley seal HD part # 11354K (qty.1) 8. Copper cap locking plate HD part # 35451-01K (qty.1) (The seal and locking plate can be re-used if not damaged during removal) Stock component removal To install the 240 kit, it will be necessary to raise the motorcycle off the ground on a suitable lift. WARNING – Be sure to center the motorcycle on the lift so that it does not fall over when you raise it up or when you are working on it. Installation of the 240 kit begins with the disassembly and removal of the rear end of the bike. Start with the simplest and most obvious components. For detailed information on removal of these parts, consult your factory manual. 1. Remove rear wheel assembly and brake. 2. Remove swingarm. 3. Cut brake tab on swingarm (as pictured). 4 4. Clean up casting mark on inside of swingarm in pulley area (as pictured). 5 5. Remove and replace right side swingarm mount with mount included in kit. 6. Install swingarm with new supplied pivot shaft. 7. Install stock spacer on left side of shaft, use supplied stepped spacer between stock spacer and swingarm. (Small step toward bearing). 8. Remove front pulley, and disassemble. 9. Test fit ½” allen bolts in hub before removal. Some models require drilling for bolts to fit. If necessary, use ½” bit and drill before removing, minimal material will be removed. Take caution not to drill too deep and hit case. 6 10. Install supplied adapter on the back to space pulley out. (Use loctite on bolts, and assemble as pictured).

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1. Before removal and disassembly, remove all dirt, mud, dust and foreign material. 2. Use only the proper tools and cleaning equipment. Refer to the “SPECIAL TOOLS”. 3. When disassembling, always keep mated parts together. This includes gears, cylinders, pistons and other parts that have been “mated” through normal wear. Mated parts must always be reused or replaced as an assembly. 4. During disassembly, clean all of the parts and place them in trays in the order of disassembly. This will speed up assembly and allow for the correct installation of all parts. 5. Keep all parts away from any source of fire. EAS00021 REPLACEMENT PARTS Use only genuine Yamaha parts for all replacements. Use oil and grease recommended by Yamaha for all lubrication jobs. Other brands may be similar in function and appearance, but inferior in quality. EAS00022 GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-RINGS 1. When overhauling the engine, replace all gaskets, seals and O-rings. All gasket surfaces, oil seal lips and O-rings must be cleaned. 2. During reassembly, properly oil all mating parts and bearings and lubricate the oil seal lips with grease.
1-3 GEN INFO IMPORTANT INFORMATION EAS00023 LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS After removal, replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins. After the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification, bend the lock tabs along a flat of the bolt or nut. EAS00024 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, lubricate the oil seal lips with a light coat of lithium-soap-based grease. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1 Oil seal c C Do not spin the bearing with compressed air because this will damage the bearing surfaces. 1 Bearing

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)