I want to bolt my 2wd 465 directly up to the flange on my brown lipe aux transmission. Yet, I still want to be able to change the clutch out easily. Now the engine, transmission,brownie, and transfer case will be all hard mounted in a rigid drop down power train cradle within a rigid cage. I am alright with the vibration this will cause. I am going to have it with or without rubber mounts so I choose without. The seats I will be using will lessen most of this vibration(I think).

What I want to do is have a flange that slips over the output then bolts to the aux transmission so I would not need to drop the entire power train cradle to change the clutch. I want to be able to unbolt the engine and transmission (using mostly vertical bolts) then pull it back towards the axle(using a cherry picker of course) enough to clear the opening of the flange mounted to the aux transmission. Once the clutch is replaced I would slide the engine and transmission back aligning the output shaft with the flange then bolt the vertical bolts back in place maintaining proper alignment.

I have always tossed 465's to others to have them rebuilt or bought them rebuilt. I never had a reason to change out the output yoke and am learning as I go.

What I don't know is if having a slip yoke style flange will cause the rear seal and bearings to come loose. I believe these are pressed in and should not move. I just want to make sure they are not held in by the yoke(held in by the bolt).
While this may seem a stupid question it is important and if I "just toss it together and see" I risk the rear seal blowing out offsetting the bearings and causing an issue.

The yoke neck will slip over the output shaft.

Is there a c clip style clip that holds in the seal/bearing? If this rear seal would be free to move without the yoke and bolt holding them in place could I notch the housing and install a c clip like clip to hold the seal in place?Looking at exploded views I don't see any type of c-clip so I am guessing that the seal just kind of sits is simply pressed in and if it was to loosen up the yoke would hold it in place while not touching it.

If there is absolutely no way this kind of slip yoke style system can be used I will simply install a flange type output bolt it to the back of the 465 in the same manner as a typical yoke. Of course then I will need to remove 4-8 bolts/nuts and rely on them not sheering off, being out of alignment, loosening, or being thinned down by shocks. A slip flange would not only make replacing the clutch and pulling the engine easier it would also provide more reliable overall mount.

To you guys who could rebuild these in your sleep this question seems obvious. But, like I said before I never tore into one personally so I don't really know for sure. I plan on using/retaining cast top 2wd style 465's if that makes any difference.