Having finished stiffening the canvas frame of the bodice the rest is finishing. Let me start off by saying I did this slightly backwards, and realized after the fact that I didn’t need to. Based on the few extant garments available around the same time period, it was common place in the bodice to see the outer fabric wrapped around the stiffened core and the lining stretched to just shy of the edges and tacked along the inside. However, because of the edge trim around the front and neckline, I didn’t think it would work so I did stretched the lining around the stiffened core. Next I tacked the outer fabric and then added the trim as you will see below. It doesn’t have a huge impact other than I know I did it in a non-period way, but at least I realized when I was 85% done that I can do it the proper way next time and everything will work out just fine. JSo, here’s what I did…first, make a bodice of the lining fabric, being sure to add generous allowance on the edges, and the normal seam allowance for the side and shoulder seams; no seam allowance is needed at the arm holes. Lay the lining over the inside of the stiffened canvas, pinning if necessary to keep it from moving around. The lining can then be pulled taunt around the edges of the bodice and tacked in place on the outer side, being sure not to go through all layers of the stiffened bodice. Leave the arm holes (don’t tack them down, but feel free to pin if helps keep the fabric from wondering).

Lining attached to bodice structure.

Next, make the bodice out of the outer fabric, again adding a fair seam allowance at the edges and the normal seam allowance for the side and shoulder seams and no seam allowance is needed at the arm holes. This will be laid over the outside of the stiffened canvas. Pull the fabric taunt over the edges to the inside of the stiffened bodice. Fold the raw edges under and whip stitch in place, being sure not to go all the way through the bodice. Again, leave the arm holes. If you add the edging trim, as I did, the outer fabric can stop on the outside before the edges. This will result in less bulk on the inside. Cut out the trim fabric in the same manner as the outer fabric for the outer edges. The inside should be cut to shape as appropriate for your trim. After sewing the back and shoulder seams, pin the trim to the bodice. Fold over the edges, tucking your raw ends and tack in place. Do not tack the trim edges on the outer bodice yet. This will be left until after you attach the hooks & eyes and the sleeves. For the hooks and eyes, I HIGHLY recommend purchasing the corseting hooks and eyes. The ones you get at most local fabric stores are not hardy enough to take the strain of this garment. Finally, sew the hooks and eyes to the bodice opening. NOTE: I would NOT recommend hidden lacing rings in place of the hooks and eyes. I tried this on the lower portion because of the reeds I put in. While it did lace, it was impossible to have the sides meet with the hidden lacing because I couldn’t get to the string to pull it tight. And there is no pictorial evidence to suggest putting the rings on the outside.Before setting the bodice aside, either whip stitch or zig zag the arm hole, making sure both the lining and outer fabric remain taunt. The bodice may then be temporarily set aside to work on the sleeves.Once the sleeves are cut out and sewn together, add the cuff if desired. I took two layers of my linen canvas and quilted them together similar to my bodice. I then cut four cuffs of the contrasting fabric leaving extra seam allowance along the top and bottom. Next, I sewed them into cuffs and placed one on top of one of the quilted cuffs. The upper edge was then folded over and tacked down. The bottom edge was trimmed and then the whole cuff sewn to the sleeve. Taking another contrast cuff piece I placed wrong sided together on the inside and folded the raw edges under and tacked it in place. The raw edge of the cuff along the bottom was then covered by the bottom of the lining reducing any chance of the edges showing if the cuffs are bent back. The canvas gives some extra body to the cuffs and prevents them from flopping around.

The sleeves can then be placed in the armhole and sewn into place. Remember that the seam is under the arm for this gown, as opposed to along the back of the arm as in earlier period clothing. Feel free to zig zag stitch edges of the arm hole to prevent fraying and snip as needed.Finally, the edge trim can be tacked into place.