ORAL HISTORY

Donald LInk

A native of Crowley, Louisiana, Donald Link began cooking when he was fifteen years old. After gaining some experience in local restaurants, Donald moved to San Francisco. There, he realized his passion for food and local ingredients. He attended the California Culinary Academy and honed his craft in various restaurants. Donald referred back to his native Louisiana for ideas and inspiration, building his reputation as a leading chef in the Bay Area. Eventually, though, his roots called him home. Donald moved to New Orleans and opened Herbsaint Restaurant in 2000. Five years later and only a handful of months after Hurricane Katrina, he opened his second restaurant, Cochon. Gumbo is served at both establishments. At Herbsaint, the menu allows for the gumbo to change regularly. At Cochon, Donald offers a Cajun-style chicken and andouille gumbo served with potato salad.

If you make a roux—make a gumbo—and then at the very end throw in your meat and turn it off, that’s not gumbo, in my opinion. What makes gumbo gumbo is that all that stuff is put in earlier and has enough time to break down. That’s why it’s always better the second day. So all the components lend itself to the whole, and that’s what flavors it. ~ Donald Link

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