Re: Show us your Fuji

Re: Show us your Fuji

Originally Posted by sehinla

Hello there. Just picked up my new 2013 Fuji Nevada 1.3 29er. Poor thing sat in my garage for nearly a week until I was finally able to get out on Saturday morning. This is a huge step up from my old Giant Rincon! Love it so far.

My two Fujis

My 2011 Reveal 1.0. 26er I bought it as a bare frame, no shock, on eBay ($305), I added all the components from my hardtail, plus an eBay Monarch R shock ($120) and a NOS 2012 Manitou Minute Pro 120 with a 20mm TA. My wheels are BWW Pure XCR hubs so I already had 20mm adapters. I have only done a few rides on it but I love the bike, its got steeper geometry than the typical AM bike, which I like, but its still very stable.

My girlfriends Belle 1.0 26er. Its a 100mm frame, I got the frame from the same place but it came with a Monarch RT3 shock and I added Manitou Marvel Expert 100mm QR. She loves it.

The Fuji chainstay's 'seat-tube' mount locating bolt has to be sleeved in to fit the K2 chainstay's larger seat-tube bracket holes, as the two respective design diameters are not identical spec mates.

Some light machining and fabrication is required.

Their actual width difference is K2=66mm; Fuji=68mm: 68 -66 = 2mm. The machined sleeve's major Outside Diameter width (the K2 counterbore shoulder depth + 1mm) should extend to Fuji width for the pivot shaft/bolt. Wider than the K2 by another +1mm per side, to accommodate the main pivot shaft's working length - from head to retaining bolt on crank-side across the seat tube pivot mount.

The chainstay trail length is another geometry story, and requires the Fuji Seat Stays axle pivots and dropouts to remain, but not the K2's. Some of the original Outland 3.0 chainstay fabrication will remain after tig work at that axle end. But not much, just the very tips with the seat-stay pivots.

650b wheelsize conversion must give an estimated eye-to-eye horizontal dimension of 39cm (between chainstay ends' center-to-center). The Seat Stays will extend 19-20mm with a 216mm eye-to-eye rear shock. This will still clear the seat tube. Currently 196mm rear suspension.

This geometry arithmetic is a comfortable +15mm to chainstay length; a crank-to-axle extension from 425mm (for 26er) to 440mm. New rear shock length of 216mm e2e is +20mm to Seat-stay. So the static resting axle height and the crank height should stay on a fairly level keel.

29er chainstay length is 450mm from crank to rear dropout. Crank to Seat Tube pivot point center is -25mm, and chainstay trail length from the Seat Stay pivot bearing is another 25mm to the rear dropouts. 45cm minus 5cm = 40cm (29er geometry). That indicates what the subframe length needs to be and what the hardpoint dimensions are.

That said, I think Fuji should start making all entry level bikes with rigid forks (probably steel). It's a lot more predictable than the old coil spring dealy that came with the bike.

That and the wheels it came with... Other than that I can't complain about this bike. Since both have been replaced I'll just stop now.

I never came back here to update, but my Fuji and my Spec RH were recovered in Aug 0f 2014. I sold the Spec to offset the cost of replacing my roadbike, but the FUJI lives on! I had to replace a few things as it got beat up pretty bad, but, yeah, she's safe and sound in the garage.

I never came back here to update, but my Fuji and my Spec RH were recovered in Aug 0f 2014. I sold the Spec to offset the cost of replacing my roadbike, but the FUJI lives on! I had to replace a few things as it got beat up pretty bad, but, yeah, she's safe and sound in the garage.

Need help IDing this bike !

Can anyone help me identify this? It would be my first venture into full suspension wondering if it is upgradeable. I know FUJI makes great roadies and hybrids and this looks decent to me but any input would be great ! Only model i can find on bike is OSX 1000 and i cant find anything on that.

I'd only suggest buying it if it were super cheap and you plan to ride it as is. IMO, it's not worth putting any significant money into and the money would be better spent on a more recent model year hardtail.

Built two Fuji bikes last fall after convincing my wife to upgrade from her Motobecane 400HT to a proper dual suspension higher quality bike. Bought a 2012 Belle 1.0 and a 2009 Outland RC frame off of eBay, got each for under $300. Then I build them up to match, mostly. The main difference is the Belle has a Rockshox Reba RLT and mine has a SR Suntour Epixon with remote lockout. Other than that the build was basically identical. WTB tires, BWW wheels, full shimano M610 deore(upgraded to SLX 2x cranks), Avid Elixir brakes then just using your generic Oval or what not for the stem, seatpost, handlebars etc. Took a bit to get it fit for her, but she loves the bike and it weighs in at 27lbs. My outland is about a half pound lighter and the thing flies up and down the mountains. Loved to build these and we both feel pretty good for what we got for about $3200 for both bikes.

Just bought a 2012 fuji nevada 2.0 on ebay its a 26er with a 23" frame. Considering im only 5'6", i need to change the frame so i bought a fuji outland 2.0. Still need to fix now im selling the nevada frame with the crankset alivio, and prob with the fork cause the outland needs a tapered fork

So I received an old mountain bike for free. I haven't ridden off-road but now that i have a bike i might try. The rear shock holds air but front fork (RST 381 el) might need replacing. I will be looking to do some low budget upgrades.