The first photo shows the finished tilt shell and rib assembly. I installed a total of thirty tabs on the tilt shell to hold ten separate ribs, which in turn were bolted to each other to stiffen everything up. My original intent was to have the transverse rib that runs parallel to the cowl to be one piece. However, I needed to change it to two separate pieces in order to clear the blower scoop when the tilt opens and closes.
The second and third photos, which are a little tough to see because of the reflection off of the body, show the piece that I needed to cut off the rear portion of the fender in order to clear the door as the tilt opens/closes. I made a cardboard template for one side and marked the cut line, and then reversed it to mark the cut line for the other fender. The piece that was cut off will be bonded to the top of the saddle. This moves the tilt/body gap out away from the door and ensures that the tilt shell does not scratch the door when it operates. The linear actuator switch will be wired in series with a pair of door contacts to ensure the tilt can't operate without the door being closed.

After the third layer of mat, I rolled the tilt shell out in the sunlight for a while and let it bake to make sure everything was fully cured. The other photos are just some more shots of the completed work.

All of the rib tabs had been bonded in, and now came the task of reinforcing the tabs with a few layers of glass mat. I used three layers of 1 ½ oz. mat, with each layer about 1" larger all around than the last layer. The glass was torn into appropriate sized patches rather than cut out with shears so that there were no sharp lines and the reinforcement blended more seamlessly with the shell glass. The patches almost disappear into the background without a visible seam.
Second photo shows a tab with a layer of glass mat in place. I also ended up making a fillet of body filler around the edges of the tabs for a gradual change between the tab and shell. This helped the mat conform more easily and lay down better without chance of air gaps.
Third photo shows some more of the tab reinforcement work along the fender/hood line.

The first photo shows the front actuator pivot plate bolted to the rib. The three bolt setup makes for a stronger anchor point than with just a single bolt directly into the rib.
Second photo shows the finished pivot anchor plates. I ended up making three separate pivot locations in the plate. The bottom hole on the plate will allow the tilt to open the farthest. I don't know if I'll have any need to change it, but I have the option.
Last photo shows the assembly bolted up and its relationship to the tilt shell. The grille also has to be fitted in between the shell and the actuator, which will be covered in later journal entries.

I chose the top of the frame rail for the location of the linear actuator anchor point. The actuator is no wider than the frame, so this was a good spot. Holes were drilled into the frame and tapped for two mounting bolts for the bracket. Location of the bracket was determined by using a mock-up model described in earlier journal entries. Each actuator has a push/pull force of 110 lbs. and a stroke of 10 inches. The last photo shows the prototype front bracket I came up with that gets bolted to the rib. I made one with multiple pivot point locations so that I could fine tune the full-open position of the tilt. The original plan was to just have a long pivot bolt through the actuator rod directly into the rib, but I ended up going with a separate plate instead. The single bolt wasn't as sturdy as I wanted, and there would be no adjustability in the pivot point location, so I went with the plate.