dont you have to open the bleeder and let the fluid run out when you push the piston back in? after all, its has abs

No. I made that mistake changing my fronts last weekend. You just need to open up the brake fluid cap so it can vent well and have something to push the piston back in evenly. My dad had an old school steering wheel puller laying around that worked perfectly. If you open up anything, then it's a whole nother headache.

Always bleed the fluid at every brake pads you change. Brake fluid absorbs water from the humidity in the air, the water is heavier than brake fluid so the water is pushed to the end of the line, and then it allows corrosion of the system.

Agree! High school auto mech teacher would ride our butts if we pushed that fluid behind the piston back up into the break lines. We had to put a wrench on the bleeder, pop a small hose on the bleeder and into a coke bottle. Open the bleeder and pushed the piston back into the caliper, and the fluid behind the piston would escape out of the bleeder and into the coke bottle. Tighten up the bleeder as the piston bottoms out. Was amazed at how cloudy the fluid in the coke bottle looked. You then could look at the fluid in the coke bottle and check for rust or metal particles or ??? Of course in high school we were working on cars that were daily drivers that ran through deep puddles and snow and salt. Not something most of us do with our camaros.

Ok, doing this right now and stupid question! The little metal shims that are thin like a pop can on the back of the pads. Do you put those back on? Put the Molly lube right on the pad and then got worried! Please tell me no!!

Ok, doing this right now and stupid question! The little metal shims that are thin like a pop can on the back of the pads. Do you put those back on? Put the Molly lube right on the pad and then got worried! Please tell me no!!

If you mean the metal shims that look like wheel balancers, no. I remember reading GM added these to help with noise coming from the pads.

Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!

Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!

Not the ones that looks like wheel weights. These are like a flat aluminum shim that sit between the pad and the piston. Have to drive 100 miles tmr just want to make sure I don't have to stay up and put them back!!!! If just noise I can deal for a day or so. Thanks guys!!

*edit. I'M NO EXPERT but I believe the thin metal "shim" is just for noise. When I did my brakes I took everything out and only put what was in the new parts box back on. The pads and the pins that hold the pads in are the only required parts I believe.

Great write-up and info here, thank you all. Just installed my Stillen rotors and it went great! I can't believe that torx bit is 65 ft/lbs. it was very easy to get off. I put thread lock on them so they'll be alright.