Things you need to know to hit coat sales

Friday

Jan 13, 2017 at 2:00 AM

To rate warmth, L.L. Bean sends each jacket to a third party, Kansas State University, which outfits a copper mannequin with a base layer, jeans, fleece, gloves or mittens and a hat, plus the jacket or coat, then conducts tests on the mannequin. The university sends graphs back to Bean, telling it the temperature range the coat is comfortable at in both light and moderate activity.

Kay KeoughContributing writer

Sure, there was a reprieve this week when 50-degree weather rolled in to melt the snow. But the forecast is calling for temps in the 20s again this weekend, so winter is far from over.

It's possible to enjoy an off-season stroll on the beach, but it requires the right gear.

So before you head out – or into cyberspace – with your holiday gift cards to take advantage of winter sales, consider one professional's take on choosing what will work best for you.

As L.L. Bean’s senior product developer for outerwear, Brent Vanni helps shepherd up to 20 new designs through the pipeline every winter. Along with designers and merchants, the members of his active- and casual-wear teams are responsible for producing products in line with current trends.

These new products get added to the hundreds of outerwear options that Bean has available – 517 online listings, a number which fluctuates. It’s a daunting inventory to search through, but finding the perfect coat or jacket gets easier when dissecting the categories those articles fall under, and determining what you need.

There are numerous factors to take into account, such as whether you’re going to wear the item to the grocery store or the ski slopes, or if it’s earlier in the season or deep into the coldest and snowiest days.

L.L. Bean divides its outerwear into five main categories: fleece, which can vary in weight or be used, as in the case of sherpa fleece, to line a jacket; uninsulated, such as soft-shell or casual cotton jackets more popular in the spring; lightly insulated, including synthetic puffer jackets, pack-aways and wool coats; heavyweight insulated, like the more substantial parkas and coats you’d find in harsher conditions or on skiers; and rain jackets/coats.

Lightly insulated

Increasingly popular over the past few years, and good for both casual and active use, are jackets in the third category, says Vanni, which have “ageless appeal” across generations, can be used in several or even all seasons, and “keep you warm, but also don’t feel bulky or like you’re wearing anything.”

Items such as Bean’s Ultralight 850 wool collection or PrimaLoft Packaway jackets, with synthetic insulation, are “right in the middle – the sweet spot, because of climate change and the weather. People don’t need these big, beefy jackets anymore,” he says.

Similar outerwear from other companies includes The North Face’s synthetic, ultralight ThermoBall jackets and Eddie Bauer’s Downlight StormDown series.

Are you going to be wearing your jacket or coat every day? Look for functional pieces, Vanni says. Women in particular tend to prefer longer coats that provide more coverage when commuting or traveling around town. Also bear in mind the difference between waterproof and water-resistant.

Waterproof fabric doesn’t allow any water or wind through the fabric, Vanni explains. It has a coating, or membrane, on its backside that acts as a protective barrier from water, plus waterproof-taped seams. Water-resistant gear, on the other hand, doesn’t have taped seams, and instead relies on DWR, or durable water repellant, that’s enough to give it some resistance to rain or moisture, but will eventually allow the elements to sink in.

Lastly, the more subjective categories of design and color should be weighed carefully when choosing an everyday coat or jacket, because you will likely wear it a lot.

Choices for outdoor sports

For active skiers and snowboarders, on the other hand, be on the lookout for longer coats with durable, waterproof fabric, which have a higher collar to help protect your face and pockets to hold your ski pass and goggles. Usually, these coats are of the heavier-weight, insulated variety.

Hikers, says Vanni, “need something that’s going to breathe a little bit, because they’re going to be working up heat.” It’s key that a hiker’s jacket moves moisture vapor out to increase comfort.

Finally, for snowshoers and Nordic and alpine skiers, pieces are being transitioned, he says, to be usable for a winter hike or just worn around town. They tend to be in a solid dark or black color, so they’re more approachable in everyday settings.

Testing the warmth

Regardless of what you’re going to use your coat or jacket for, though, it does, as Vanni says, come back to warmth. At some point, you’ve probably stared too long at a tag that gives a warmth rating and wondered how accurate it was. At least for L.L. Bean, these tags reflect actual testing – with one potential caveat.

The company sends each jacket to a third party, Kansas State University, which outfits a copper mannequin with a base layer, jeans, fleece, gloves or mittens and a hat, plus the jacket or coat, then conducts tests on the mannequin. The university sends graphs back to Bean, telling it the temperature range the coat is comfortable at in both light and moderate activity. However, Vanni says, everybody is different, and because the mannequin is based on an active 28-year-old male, running at a light pace of 3 miles per hour, results will vary by body type and the individual.

To help ensure full protection from the elements regardless of your body type, accessorizing accordingly is key. The most important thing in the “accessory bucket,” says Vanni, is a base layer, otherwise known as long underwear. Because this is a next-to-skin product, it should move moisture away from your body, he says. Other must-haves include:

• Hats: Like coats, hats can be insulated or have linings, such as fleece, to add warmth. The best style and fit depends on the person, but standard knit hats made of acrylic or wool are popular, particularly wool beanies, Vanni says.

• Scarves: People are also drawn to wool scarves, he notes, but common staples for women also include pashmina, knit and cotton scarves. For both genders, choosing a few scarves in neutral colors such as white/cream, brown and black increases their versatility.

• Gloves/mittens: Because your extremities are the first part of your body to feel the cold, proper gloves or mittens are crucial. Mittens give you the ultimate warmth because your fingers are closer together, but they also decrease dexterity. For gloves, Vanni recommends pairs with down insulation in the back of the hand, and synthetic in the palm.

• Socks/footwear: Red wool socks are popular at Bean, but you can get a good performance sock made from either wool or synthetic materials, says Vanni, who uses synthetic for running, wool for hiking and skiing, or a blend. For added traction when buying boots or other footwear, consider spikes or Stabilicers, which attach to the sole.

• Kids’ gear: Although not strictly an accessory, children’s winter clothing can be adjustable. Look for jackets and pants that are not only durable, but also have features like grow cuffs, hidden inside the child’s sleeve, that lengthen to accommodate growth.

While outerwear can serve many purposes, a lot of people buy just one warm piece for winter, according to Vanni. Though men tend to wait until they really need a coat or jacket, and women plan ahead more, the ultimate time to buy is October and November, when all the new items are coming out or, now, just after Christmas, when prices are slashed.

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