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Using Leather Doctor products for the first time

I like the Aniline Full Matrix that lays out which products to use in which order very much. It is a very good guide to what sequence of steps to use. I would like your advice on how to categorize the damage to our couch and which sequence(s) of products to use.

I have a good-quality black aniline couch that my cat anointed repeatedly more than a year ago. Unfortunately before discovering this forum, I followed the advice of a leather "expert," who suggested I douse the couch with Nature's Miracle to remove the odor. (Seriously this guy cleans leather for a living.)

The Nature's Miracle did remove the odor from the leather and from the foam underneath is as far as it could reach. I detect no ammonic or sulphurous scent on the leather. And there is no slimy or tacky texture to the leather on our couch at all. However leather feels like rawhide--dull and hard--wherever the Nature's Miracle and urine reached. There is also still a faint, sweet smell coming from the fabric-covered foam parts of the couch, a smell that I associate with old urine. I figure once we repair the leather we will replace all of the foam.

As for stains, there is some discoloration on the red piping on part of the couch. The back, cushions, and arms also have a water line in places. I assume the discoloration is oxidized chrome tanning, and the water line is water damage caused by both the urine and the Nature's Miracle.

My questions are: Following the Aniline Full Matrix,

1) Should I follow the soil, stain, and odor steps on line #21 (Ammonic to Mercaptans) to be certain that the urine is gone from the leather entirely before dealing the damage the urine caused?

2) Should I add in the first and second steps from #15 (Oxidized Chrome Tanning), and even #30 (Urine Damages after #15 and #30) and #7 (pH Related Water Stain)?

3) Line #7 has me use the Acidifier 2.0 while Line #15 requires the Basifier 8.8. Which would I do first with the opposites of acid and base?

4) Finally Line #7 requires FatLiquor 5.0, while #15 and #21 require FatLiquor LS5.5. Would one of these be enough or do I need both, and if so, which of these would go first?

>>> 1) Should I follow the soil, stain, and odor steps on line #21 (Ammonic to Mercaptans) to be certain that the urine is gone from the leather entirely before dealing the damage the urine caused?

The urine and the nature’s miracle dry residues in the present of water from the atmosphere or directly will activate the negative working process again and will need to be neutralized with KillUrine-2.1 in the system process.

>>> 2) Should I add in the first and second steps from #15 (Oxidized Chrome Tanning),

This is the “Stain” removing process of the migrating tanning agent from the protein fiber and is done after the above neutralizing system.

>>> and even #30 (Urine Damages after #15 and #30)

This is deal with already in the step-4 and step-5 of #15

>>> and #7 (pH Related Water Stain)?

Skip this step as line #20 step-1 using CleanUrine-1.5 has the same pH value as CleanPro-1.5 (note all the cleaners and conditioners name suffix denotes its pH value)

>>> 3) Line #7 has me use the Acidifier 2.0 while Line #15 requires the Basifier 8.8. Which would I do first with the opposites of acid and base?

Base on #15, [3] is missing, [2] should be Acidifier and the missing [3] takes the place of existing [2] instead.
Simply say Acidifier-2.0 is a continuation of CleanTarnish-1.3 in the rinsing process and to pH balance it will need Basifier-8.8 back to the leather pH neutral of 3 and 5.

>>> 4) Finally Line #7 requires FatLiquor 5.0, while #15 and #21 require FatLiquor LS5.5. Would one of these be enough or do I need both, and if so, which of these would go first?

Fatliquor-5.0 gives extra suppleness.
FatliquorLs-5.5 gives extra leather-scent.
Suppleness is “essential”, while leather-scent is “aesthetic”.
Fatliquor-5.0 first for suppleness, then FatliquorLs-5.5 for pleasantness (the luxury of leather . . . “even a blind man can see through the nose”).