（日本語はこちら）1. Getting around KamikochiThe Northern Japanese Alps has several tall mountains, such as Mt. Yari (3180 m) and Mt. Hotaka (3190 m). Kamikochi, commanding a great view of these mountains, sits at the upper reaches of the Azusa River. There are two main hiking courses from the famous Kappa-bashi Bridge: the Taisho-ike Pond Course going down to the southwest along the river, and the Myojin-ike Pond Course walking up to the east. And it takes about only one hour each from Kappa-bashi to Myojin-ike or Taisho-ike Pond. If you are the type of person who likes walking along the water and viewing beautiful mountains, but hesitate to climb up a mountain path, Kamikochi Hiking is for you. This hiking course along the Azusa River is well maintained and almost flat.

HighlightsAt Hodaka Shrine just in front of Myojin-ike Pond, they hold a special Shinto ritual on October 8 every year. Shinto maidens perform a ritual dance, and priests get on a small boat and go around the pond (details are below). A very famous mountain guide, Kamijo Kamonji, had a hut near Myojin-ike Pond. Now, the great-great-grandson of Kamonji runs a restaurant and B&B in the same location. When you get there, please try their tasty grilled fish: It’s nice and soft and easy to eat...bones and all. After stopping by the shrine and its inner pond, I crossed the river on a rope bridge. When I turned around to look, Mt. Myojin was magnificent against the blue sky. Hiking trails flank both sides of the Azusa River, but “Ugan” (go up to the left from Kappa-bashi Bridge) has more viewpoints along the way.

3. Myojin-ike Pond AreaMyojin-ike Pond is an hour's walk from Kappa-bashi Bridge. I walked north along the right riverbank. Hodaka Shrine, which protects the entire area, sits beside the pond. And the pond sits just below the cliffs of Mt. Myojin. The sheer surface of the rock cliffs and the dead trees from past volcanic eruptions are clear examples of the intense nature of Kamikochi. But on this day, we had very nice weather. A blue sky and beautiful greenery reflected on the pond's crystal-clear surface. In the middle of the winter, the lowest temperatures fall below 20℃. But even so, the water doesn’t freeze completely due to an underground stream that continuously flows into the pond.I sat on the banks of the pond in the early morning before the shrine’s annual ritual on October 8. I was just fascinated by the mystical beauty of Kamikochi and this very tranquil setting.

Hodaka Shrine

Hodaka Shrine, situated alongside Myojin-ike Pond, has a special Shinto ritual on October 8th every year. It is a rite to offer up prayers for mountain victims and to give thanks to God. Shinto priests prepare rice, sake, vegetables, fruits, and many other things to offer. People who take part in the ritual flock to the small shrine before 10 AM. At 11 o’clock, a large crowd gathers around Myojin-ike Pond to observe the rite.First, a Shinto priest purifies all present. He then recites Norito (Shinto prayers), and everyone worships together. After that, two Shinto maidens offer up a dance to God. Their dance, nice and slow, relieves the tension of the whole of the ritual. At the end of the rite, priests, musicians, and maidens move to Myojin-ike Pond and ride in two classic-style boats. The boats move smoothly over the surface of the pond, as if protected by the arms of God.

4. Taisho-ike Pond AreaThe wooden path connects Kamikochi Bus Terminal and Taisho-ike Pond, which was formed by a volcanic eruption in 1915. As I walked above the Azusa River, I also enjoyed the view of the beautiful mountains covered in morning mist. One hour later, I reached the shore of this large pond, which rippled on its surface, reflecting the mountain scenery behind it. I took a deep breath and gained energy and vigor from these beautiful natural surroundings.

5. Kappa-bashi Bridge Area Kappa-bashi Bridge is the busiest spot in Kamikochi, and sometimes feels like the famous Shibuya Crossing intersection. People are always coming and going, taking pictures near or on the bridge, having a break during their hikes, and just sitting and enjoying the beautiful views. But after dark comes a tranquil silence.I felt a mysterious moment between the daytime and night at Kappa-bashi Bridge. In the story “Kappa” written by Ryunosuke Akutagawa, a Kappa (water sprite) appears near this bridge probably at such a moment.

6. Weston and KamikochiA British missionary, Walter Weston (1861-1940), made a successful ascent of the Japanese Alps in 1893 guided by a local hunter, Kamijo Kamonji. They remained lifelong friends. Later, in 1896, Weston published a book “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps” in the U.K., and introduced the charms of Kamikochi to Europe.

7. Kamonji GoyaKamonji Goya is a small restaurant and guesthouse in front of Myojin-ike Pond, Kamikochi. The most popular dish here is a grilled freshwater fish (Iwana-no-shioyaki 岩魚の塩焼き). If you have ever enjoyed their Japanese grilled fish, you know that the taste of the fish is very different from regular grilled fish. It’s very special. The meat is soft and sweet, the flavor is rich and deep. And the whole body including head, tail and bones will melt in your mouth. So delicious!In this video, you can see how they prepare and cook the original grilled fish in Kamonji Goya. You might find a secret recipe through it.

Interview:A famous mountain guide, Kamijo Kamonji (1847-1917), built this house in 1880, and spent most of the latter half of his life here.He knew every single detail of the Kamikochi area. So, Kamonji sometimes acted as a guide for foreign travelers. A British missionary, Walter Weston (1861-1940), was one of them. Weston reached the summit of the mountains around Kamikochi and wrote a book called “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps” in 1896. European countries came to know about Kamikochi with this book as a start.I chatted with the great-grandson of Kamonji. He talked to me about the character of Kamonji and what his life here was like.

8. Lounge Cafe at Kamikochi Imperial HotelKamikochi Imperial Hotel is between Kappa-bashi and Taisho-ike Pond. The red triangular gables of the hotel building make a striking contrast with the beautiful greenery. The stone built foundation creates a stately appearance. Lounge café “Grindelwald” has a huge mantelpiece in the center of the room, and it offers a cozy warm fire for visitors when the days are cold.I started the hike from Kappa-bashi Bridge toward Taisho-ike Pond in the early morning and had a nice hot coffee here on the way back to our hotel. The hot coffee, made from the crystal water of the Japanese Alps, warmed my body and soul.

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Author:Tomoko Kamishima
Japan Silhouette features beautiful things, touching scenery, and interesting buildings of historical importance—I would like to guide you to many such places through my articles. Please enjoy all “things Japanese” together with me.