UM, when you get here, the first dinner the blonde is planning to make for you is one of your favorites, but for our second dinner we should order up a real Schenectady Special --- a feast of egg rolls, won-ton soup, and ribs!

The men who use the word this way are the same Hawaiian-shirted oily old cigar-chomping uncouths that refer to women as dames and broads over chintzy coffee mugs of gin in the husky light at a poker table. True story.