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...there are interesting things going on here, in a room which, on the right night, could be cosy. It is also overseen by a bunch of savvy waiters who knew exactly when to be there and when to go away, and did both with tact. In short, Tristan Welch may not have it all worked out yet, but he is certainly worth watching.

A local favourite of Princess Di back in the day, Launceston Place remains a neighbourhood restaurant of the highest calibre – stupendous value at lunchtime and a “real occasion” in the evening...First-rate service makes everyone feel important, while a “highly engaging” sommelier is on hand to match wines from the top-drawer list.

LP’s villagey part of Kensington is festooned with flowers in summer, and its rows of mansions are immaculate: this poshest outpost of the D&D London restaurant group fits in. Standards of food are generally high; cooking is an accessible and inventive French/British marriage...Launceston Place is a restaurant that makes living in Launceston Place even nicer than it undoubtedly already is, but a visit from further afield isn’t always rewarded.