Saturday, February 22, 2014

Lekala 4329 Sewalong: Fitting

I've joined into the Lekala sewalong hosted by Lara at Thornberry. The pattern is 4329 and since Lekala has personalised sizes the theory is that we shouldn't have to adjust the pattern........except for me, lol.
I printed out and taped together the pattern this week. I used my measurements plus adding extra to the back, high waist and making the upper arm 17". Once the pattern was printed (and I checked the 4" printing square) I doubled checked the arm measurement and it was only 16".....based on that I decided to make a muslin.
Now while I really do like Lekala patterns my biggest issue with them is that they work off full bust and don't add an option for a FBA (though they do now allow for a narrow shoulder option and I really should have added that), so the shoulders were too wide on me.
Adjustments I made after the first muslin;
Added 2" to the bicep width
Added .5" to the back width.
Took in the waist 1" at the centre back.
Petited the bodice by 1.5"
Narrowed the shoulders by .75"
Raised the underarm by .75"

Here are the muslin pics,

Muslin 1 is on the left, I'm not sure how noticeable it is in the pics but the waist is too low which makes me feel really square and the shoulders are hanging off my shoulders. I didn't pin muslin 2 properly but the collar does sit like in muslin 1.

I still think the back could have a bit pinched out of my lower back but at least the waist seam isn't hitching on my high hips anymore.

Side view, Muslin 2 is sitting smoother

I raised the armholes by 3/4" so I'd have more movement.

This doesn't really show it well but I can move my arms forward a lot more in the second muslin.

So extra adjustments:

I've added a wedge to the centre of the lower back peplum, I feel like it isn't wide enough and is hitching a bit on my pants.

I've added another .5" to the upper back width and an extra 1" to the arm. I read somewhere once that you should never expect to have as much movement in a fitted jacket as you do in a cardigan which I suppose is true but I hate feeling binded in by a jacket.

I might get my hubbie/daughter to pin out my lower back wrinkles too.

Material wise, I'm shopping my stash. I picked up this dark purple poly crepe and a poly satin in the same clearing sale I got the zipper stand in. There is meters of both (about 6-7m) and they match really well. I've left the lower arms nice and wide too so I can roll up the sleeves and show off the lining.

So if anyone managed to slog their way through that can you pick up anything else that needs to be changed? Sometimes I can't see adjustments I need because I've been staring in the mirror at it too long!

4 comments:

Wow! This is going to look so beautiful when you finish! I really like the jacket with the pretty shawl collar. I have tried Lekala before, and I had to make adjustments as well. The good thing is, the patterns are relatively inexpensive, so it didn't bother me too much. As far as fit goes, you are definitely moving in the right direction, though I am still learning to fit garments : ) Best wishes!

Hi Melinda, I followed the directions in the book 'fit for real people', I had a flick around the internet and couldn't find a link anywhere for it sorry. Basically I just raised the height of the underarms at the side front pattern piece and the side back pattern piece. I raised the armholes the same amount as I narrowed the shoulders so the armscye circumference would stay the same (if you only raise the armholes you will make the arm opening smaller and will have to think about easing in the extra material or lowering the sleeve cap height). Not sure if you have access to any sewing books? Any of the good ones should have info on doing it (Vogue, Readers digest or fitting books like 'fit for real people').Hope that helps :)