Washer stops in middle of cycle
It makes a strange noise
I cleaned out the water hoses and it has good water pressure.
It seems to be when it either spins or goes to turn the tub for washing is when it makes a noise.
So i held the door button open to watch it spin and
it seems to have troubles spinning - the drum barely moves and acts like it is stuck. I checked the belt and pully and it can move just fine freely. Would this be a motor problem?

ok i will take a look a that - but it does drain fine the water fine- seems like i have to keep pressing start but it never really spins before it used to sound like a jet plane taking off but now it just makes a noise like something is stuck holding on to it from turning it turns in very small **** increments but never a full fast spin. Would this still be the cause of that? I wouldn't think it would but i will check and do what you said and get back to you.

ok i will take a look a that - but it does drain fine the water fine- seems like i have to keep pressing start but it never really spins before it used to sound like a jet plane taking off but now it just makes a noise like something is stuck holding on to it from turning it turns in very small **** increments but never a full fast spin. Would this still be the cause of that? I wouldn't think it would but i will check and do what you said and get back to you.

i removed tha back panel and noticed a burning smell like elebronic burning smell

I put the washer in cycle mode so i could watch and see if the belt and motor ran.

when it was type to spin the motor kicked in but barly turned the drum and so i figured

(even thought the directions said not to) i would see what kind of force the motor put out by holding the larger pully and i noticed that i was able to stop it all together and the motor stop and started clicking - i was surprised i could even old it with such little force but the pully belt is tight enough turn it by hand and it turns freely just fine. But whent he motor is kicking in it just isn't doing it especially when a load of clothes is in it. Do you think it might be the motor making the burning smell?

I didn't notice it before until i took off the back panel and ran it without the back cover.

Any suggestions ?

ok did as you requested - still having same issue
i removed tha back panel and noticed a burning smell like elebronic burning smell
I put the washer in cycle mode so i could watch and see if the belt and motor ran.
when it was type to spin the motor kicked in but barly turned the drum and so i figured
(even thought the directions said not to) i would see what kind of force the motor put out by holding the larger pully and i noticed that i was able to stop it all together and the motor stop and started clicking - i was surprised i could even old it with such little force but the pully belt is tight enough turn it by hand and it turns freely just fine. But whent he motor is kicking in it just isn't doing it especially when a load of clothes is in it. Do you think it might be the motor making the burning smell?
I didn't notice it before until i took off the back panel and ran it without the back cover.
Any suggestions ?

I even found the directions to the machine and tried to do the the continuity test that it recommendedbut i don't have the correct ohm meter.

Is there a place where i can bring the motor control board and the motor to that could take a look at it.I live in Portland Oregon.

Any advice ?

Thanks-Ronok did everything mentioned in the notice and it still didn't work.
I even found the directions to the machine and tried to do the the continuity test that it recommended
but i don't have the correct ohm meter.
Is there a place where i can bring the motor control board and the motor to that could take a look at it.
I live in Portland Oregon.
Any advice ?
Thanks
-Ron

I do not think it is related to the motor, depending on the model of the machine it is most likely either something caught between the basket and tub that is holding up the drive system or a failure in the transmission or basket drive.

If you could find the full model number, it is usually on the top under the lid or on the back console that would help in determining what the issue might be

Thanks for the model number I was thinking it was a top loading machine so going the wrong direction. It sure does sound like it could be a motor issue.

Here is a service bulletin on your machine that might be of help.

Issue Washer stops in mid-cycle and/or flashes a code.

Action The motor drive system experienced a momentary loss of neutral feed from the power cord to theMotor Control Board. The neutral line for the Motor Control Board passes across the water valvesolenoids. Neutral to the motor drive system can be momentarily lost If there is poor crimping of anyof the wire terminals in this circuit. This situation could result in a misdiagnosis and unnecessaryreplacement of the Motor or Motor Controller Board.

Current Neptune front load washers will indicate a false locked rotor signal to the Machine ControlBoard. Washers with a LED display will flash code “LR” in the display. LCD washers will display“Locked Rotor.” The earlier built front loaders will not display a code, but simply shut down in midcycle or will not start.

Pull each terminal of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify thewire is properly stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make surethe wires fit snug on the terminals of the water valve solenoids.

Let me know if this helps

Hi,

Thanks for the model number I was thinking it was a top loading machine so going the wrong direction. It sure does sound like it could be a motor issue.

Here is a service bulletin on your machine that might be of help.

Issue Washer stops in mid-cycle and/or flashes a code.

Action The motor drive system experienced a momentary loss of neutral feed from the power cord to theMotor Control Board. The neutral line for the Motor Control Board passes across the water valvesolenoids. Neutral to the motor drive system can be momentarily lost If there is poor crimping of anyof the wire terminals in this circuit. This situation could result in a misdiagnosis and unnecessaryreplacement of the Motor or Motor Controller Board.

Current Neptune front load washers will indicate a false locked rotor signal to the Machine ControlBoard. Washers with a LED display will flash code “LR” in the display. LCD washers will display“Locked Rotor.” The earlier built front loaders will not display a code, but simply shut down in midcycle or will not start.

Pull each terminal of the white wire harness connected to each water valve solenoid and verify thewire is properly stripped and crimped to the metal terminal connector of the wire harness. Make surethe wires fit snug on the terminals of the water valve solenoids.

As per the symptoms you have mentioned its either debries in the drain pipe mechanism or arround the pump which is making this sound and making the tub stop spin in middle of a spin. I would request you to take the front access panel off by the screws underneath the panel. There would be a white cap facing you. Unscrew slowly. Be careful as there would be some water bellow. Once it comes completely out, you'll see all the junk in the filter. Remove the lower panel and clean the drain pump filter. Once the panel is removed the filter will be right in front. Unscrew the filter cover and you should find a ton of lint and stuff in there. This model has a pressure switch that detects if there is water in the tub. If so it will do this pause and slow spin. Once the pump filter is clean you should be good.Let us know if you want something else please accept the solution.Thank You for contacting fixya.com

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If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
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WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
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WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
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If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!