Beer of the Month

Beer of the month

Victory Prima Pils

June 01, 2011|By Josh Noel, Tribune newspapers

(William DeShazer/Chicago Tribune)

What it is: Victory Brewing's Prima Pils is beloved by beer nerds for its crisp drinkability, in both taste and alcohol level (a very manageable 5.3 percent). This pilsner, brewed in Downingtown, Pa., is admirably bold without stupefying the palate, meaning you can drink several on a hot day.

But the real beauty is that it is light enough to drink early in the night, and refreshing at the end of the night, after drinking large stouts and IPAs, because its bold crispness reclaims the taste buds.

In the bottle: A beautiful and clear straw yellow allowing you to see right through the glass indicates how clean this beer is. The body is fairly thin, but there's nothing wrong with that; it only makes it more drinkable. Prima Pils pours a fine, frothy head that releases bold earthen hops and savory breadlike malt. Crisply bitter upfront, this beer leaves the palate with a deft and refreshing balance that lingers. This is a summer beer with big, clean flavor. One taste of this and you'll never drink St. Pauli Girl again.

Who should drink it: Anyone who likes beer — which is a compliment, not a cop-out (I swear). Prima Pils is accessible enough to sway a Bud drinker, but bold enough to reward seasoned palates. Most beer drinkers will find something worthy in the bottle. It's a perfect backyard summer barbecue beer and stands up nicely to grilled chicken.

Where to buy: Available at many finer liquor stores, including Red & White Wines, 1861 N. Milwaukee Ave., for $10.80 per six-pack or $2 per 12-ounce bottle. Reliably on draft at Hopleaf, 5148 N. Clark St., and Old Town Social, 455 W. North Ave., among others.