The Curious Case of the Opitsaht Cows of Vancouver Island

I am, after all, talking regular mooing livestock commonly found roaming in herds across green fields or dusty plains.

An Opitsaht Cow, Meare’s Island, Claoquot Sound

It’s where you find this particular little group of cattle, and what brought them there, that adds the hefty pinch of intrigue.

If you ever find yourself heading off in a Zodiac or Cabin boat on a whale-watching excursion from the laid-back little haven of Tofino on Vancouver Island, make sure that you cast eyes across the water towards a white sandy beach at Meare’s Island, Clayoquot Sound.

You may first notice a small number of brightly coloured wooden chalets lining up across the beachfront. Got them? Good. Now look a little closer, between the buildings and the sea. Look for some movement. See those large brown/white patches shifting along the waterfront? Those are the cows. Yes, bovines on beaches. What’s this all about then?

This beach marks the coastal frontier of the Opitsaht Reserve, one of several communities of theTla-o-qui-ahtpeople of theNuu-chah-nulthFirst Nation. With just sixty homes and around 174 people (at last census in 2006) this tiny hamlet is the oldest continuously occupied village in British Columbia.

Since the late 18th century foreign explorers began to take advantage of the area’s natural wealth and valuable resources, and over the decades exploitation and colonization increased.

Still, despite enforced limitations on the use of their land, the Opitsaht maintained their customs and way of life.

A life defined in part by its reliance on the sea for sustenance and a livelihood.

Presents With A Purpose

So when missionaries arrived at the turn of the last century bearing generous ‘gifts’ of several cows in an attempt to make good, solid farmers of the indigenous folk, you can imagine how mystified and unimpressed they must have been.

A Cow on a Beach, Opitsaht, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

If your ancestors have flourished for over 5,000 years on a plentiful diet of salmon, crustaceans and molluscs all on your doorstep, why would you re-evaluate your culture to satisfy a bunch of unwanted visitors?

Needless to say, roast beef did not become a staple meal in this corner of the world.

Consequently, the cows were left alone, and decades later their descendants form one of the oddest legacies of the early days of foreign invasion.

Stunning aerial view of Clayoquot Sound, courtesy of Leigh Hilbert

One-Way Trip

The Opitsaht understandably chose not to change their way of life, but what about the cows themselves? They had very little choice in the matter.

Happily, these relocated bovines found a way to adjust to an oceanside existence. No need to mow the village lawns here every weekend, the Opitsaht cows graze the community turfs to a grade 1 crop.

But these traditional greens are only part of their diet. The chances are that when you see them, they’ll be grazing nonchalantly on the beach, feasting on sea lettuce and eel grass (also known as tape grass), an aquatic plant with ribbon-like leaves which grows abundantly in the intertidal zones of this region.

It’s a unique example of survival through adaptation to a new habitat.

Diet aside, the herd has had other challenges over the years. Numbers dropped dangerously low in 2008 when wolves hunted down one of the 2 males. Opitsaht residents, despite not officially holding any responsibility for the herd, tried to seek advice on what to do. None of the cattle experts consulted had much idea of how to deal with this intriguing yet unprecedented situation.

The good news is that the following May two calves, one of them male, were born, thus restoring the balance somewhat. Today, as our guide summarises their unique history en route to our whale-watching location, I’m not sure what their numbers are, but they look carefree enough as they graze away (is ‘graze’ even the right term in a beach context?!).

It’s a cow’s life in Opitsaht

Thankfullywolves and cougars rarely prey on the herd. The main nuisances are the resident dogs who frequently hassle them and nip at their haunches. When that gets too much, these docile, out-of-place creatures do what all cows do very well indeed….

14 Responses

What a great story Sara. I loved visiting Tofino, but can’t say I ran into the cows. They look so healthy, island life must suit them. then again, I think living in Tofino would make me pretty happy too.

I well remember those cows from our trip! Just two males must mean they are dreadfully inbred. They could do with a visit from a frisky male or two from a totally different gene pool. Great story though. It’s staggering how little thought is so often put into ‘charitable’ acts around the world to this day.

Great point – we’ll smuggle one in next time we visit 😉 On the charity side, when I stayed with a host family on Lake Titicaca, our guide advised us to buy grain and other food staples as gifts- so much more appropriate, I feel!

Hi, I’m Sara, a traveller, writer and editor with a long-held love for astrotourism. Here at Travel Continuum I write about the places and people that make my journeys memorable. You’ll find personal accounts, honest opinions, travel tips and inspiration, plus encouragement to try a little stargazing around the world. My goal is to make the experience come alive, whether it’s driving a 25-foot RV motorhome across the Pacific coast of Canada or observing a total eclipse of the Sun. From intriguing tales of everyday life to out-of-this-world adventures, I’d love you to come along for the ride.