About Author

Emily Shea

I'm on a quest with my family--a quest to travel the world. We've shed our former lives in the US to embark on a journey of adventure and discovery, unchained by a specific schedule. I have been known to be impatient, irrational, and slap-happy when it comes to future desires. To which I say, "Some things just cannot wait!" This path is leading us to see sights unimaginable, meet like-minded adventurers, and to learn that having these dreams is something to cherish and fight for. The wonders of this mysterious world are out there, and we cannot wait to see them for ourselves.

I have to be cautious when writing about a country that I am only a visitor in. However, I want my readers to know my genuine experience. Living in Granada has taught my family so much about what it’s like to live in a completely different atmosphere than the United States. It has even been a big adjustment from recently living in Costa Rica.

Here’s the whole story:

The Good:

It’s beautiful.

This town is charming, colorful and full of history. The colonial architecture makes you feel like you’re sipping coffee in the sea-worn south of Europe. The churches, courtyards, doors, and fountains of Granada are well cared for and beloved. This old-world city lies right along Lake Nicaragua, which provides a relaxing backdrop and refreshing lake winds. It’s photographically inviting and visually unforgettable.

It’s cheap.

There are several unique restaurants in Granada, and all are much cheaper than we’re used to. La Calzada is a cobblestone street teaming with twinkling lights and outdoor seating, where we find 2 for $1 minty mojitos and a variety of cuisines. Our favorite place to eat is El Kapuyo, which is two blocks north of La Calzada. There, we can have a quiet, romantic and very flavorful three course meal for $12 each.

Public transportation is cheap as well. Ten cordobas (about 40 cents) gets me anywhere in town in a taxi. If I need to go to the grocery store, I can find a driver who will take me there, wait, and bring me back for a total of 50 cordobas ($2). If I want to get out of town, I can catch a bus or shuttle to the major cities of Nicaragua for less than a few dollars a seat, so there is no serious need to have a personal vehicle. I’m also offered a lift on the front of bicycles, by the generous gentleman of Granada. Once, I even hopped onto the front of a horse-drawn cart…which I had to soon jump off of because it was too bouncy for my daughter.

Hired help is extremely affordable. The average wage is $1/hour. My nanny charges $28 per week–four hours a day for seven days, with Sunday off. And she cleans, too!

It’s walkable.

After staying in the mountain towns of Costa Rica’s Central Valley, it’s a nice break for my legs to simply walk a level sidewalk. I can go out with both kids (ages 3 and 1) for a few hours and not feel completely defeated when we get home.

There’s lots to do in and around town.

There are museums to visit and art exhibits to admire. There are many things to do with children in Granada. To head out of town for an adventure, Granada is not far from Mombacho and Masaya volcanoes, and enchanting Apoyo Lagoon is only a half hour away. The busy capital of Managua is conveniently located forty-five minutes away.

The Bad:

If you’re a foreigner, you’ll be overcharged often.

I can’t say I’m ripped off 100% of the time, but very frequently. This is one thing that really frustrates me. The taxi drivers will try to keep my change. I’ll have to ask, “Donde está mi cambio?” (Where is my change?). Even then, sometimes they suddenly up the fare. I’ve learned it’s best to just give them exact change. Otherwise, I have to remind myself that I’m arguing over something like 20 cents.

Rental homes can be found around $300/month, but a shiny new gringo in town will probably pay twice as much or more (like I did). The same pair of shoes that a Nicaraguan just bought costs my feet three times as much, and a dozen eggs is instantly raised from 36 cordobas to 60 cordobas when I merrily stroll up to the shop window.

In all of these cases, the best way to handle being overcharged is to know how much it costs before you get there. Then, you can calmly and confidently say, “No, the price is this, I will not pay more.” I find that I have to repeat what I will pay three times, as their price drops to my price, or closer to it. If they don’t budge and I am sure of the actual cost, I act like I’m going to walk away from the sale, and then the amount magically dwindles.

Theft is a concern.

I don’t bring my camera out alone, ever. As a gringa, I feel like a walking target, and I don’t want to be swinging around something valuable in front of people who are struggling to support their family. It is also unwise to carry a purse, as these can be snatched easily. Don’t keep loose cash or your wallet in your pocket. A small backpack is the way to go. Or, stuff the cash in your bra, ladies. See if you can cram your phone, keys and passport in there also.

The heat.

April is the hottest month, which we’re settled into now. We find it hard to manage without air-conditioning or to be out of doors during the day. Other months are more bearable, but shade must always be sought. However, the evenings are very pleasant, especially with the ever-present lake breezes. Even now at its hottest, Granada is still less humid and therefore more comfortable than Maryland in the summer.

Begging.

Street children are everywhere, especially around the touristy strip of La Calzada and the central park. They rush upon us in groups or individually, holding their hands out and rubbing their tummies. They’ll come right up to our dinner table. Many of them are very talented, and perform break dancing in the center of the street. There are some organizations set in place to support many of these children. We especially enjoyed a show at Mimo Comedia Cafe, which included juggling, mime, and gymnastic-like circus acts by the kids.

The Ugly:

Sexual Harassment.

As a woman walking around Granada, I am constantly cat-called. They are not just harmless, cute remarks either. Since I know some Spanish, I can understand when they say things like, “Hey little mama, do you need a father for those babies?” –to which I’ve responded, “I already have one, but thanks!” Men of all ages will stare, whistle at me and try to talk to me. I’ve sensed myself being followed and talked about inappropriately as well. If I’m feeling harassed, I’ll say, “Por favor no molestar,” which means, “please don’t bother me.” If it wasn’t so darn hot here, maybe I’d wear a poncho.

Poop.

Yup, I said it. There’s caca everywhere. You have to watch out for land mines wherever you walk, since horses and dogs roam the streets (and I don’t think these are just animal droppings). There is an especially over-loaded outdoor baño hosted on the grassy corner of the oldest church in Central America, which I think is just downright desecrating.

Starving animals.

Everywhere I go, I see a suffering animal. Some homeless dogs are walking, mangey skeletons. Horses that are used to pull wagons all day are frequently over-worked. Their hips protrude grotesquely, they are scarred by their improperly situated harnesses, and there are no animal cops down here to call. There are some animal rescues like Granada Animal Outreach and World Vets, but they can only bring aid to a small percentage of these pitiful creatures.

So, there you have it. The good, bad and the ugly of my experience in Granada, Nicaragua. Do the pros outweigh the cons? You can have a gorgeous home in a beautiful town for a lot less than you’d pay up North. You can learn Spanish and have lots of opportunities to give back to the community. You can make a real difference in the lives of others.

49 Comments

My main things would be theft/safety and the poop! I don’t want to worry every time I leave the house! I’ve heard of the break ins and muggings… everything else sounds tolerable to great though. Thanks for the info!

It’s worth checking out for you then, Sabrina. I’ve gotten used to the poop–lots of street dogs in Central America! What I can’t compromise is my sense of security when out with my children. Give Granada a chance and listen to your guy when you get here. As long as you are aware of your surroundings at all times and make good decisions, you should be fine.

Some back yard dogs can’t make it to the street. They subsist on table scraps which are nearly nonexistent. Euthanasia would be kinder, but the kids love the memory of the cute puppy days and won’t give them up.

Gosh, this was both refreshing (honesty is nice!) and hard (honesty is sometimes hard… caca, harassment, that poor horse!….) to read. Thanks Emily – for an honestly good post. I think I’ll stay in Costa Rica….

I have to agree with you, and this past week was tough being away from the States with a 2 yr old. My intentions when I came here were grand, but I also knew not to commit myself to any one area for more than 3 months. Granada, esp where I am, is difficult, and I decided I’d had enough and it was time to move on. Catarina is a beautiful, friendly, quiet and clean town. I had planned to move there, but then I saw a property right on the ocean in SJDS and decided…..I think I’ll do this for 3 months instead. After then….who knows…..

Sounds like you bounce around as much as we do, Renee! We were *this close* to going to Matagalpa next month, but we’re going to dip back into CR instead. Ometepe is definitely worth a visit, if you like a more remote, exotic place. Hope you like SJDS!

You are right about some of the poop not being from animals. When we visited Granada we stayed just off of La Calzada. While walking back to the hotel (I use that term loosely), it was dark and I saw movement low to the ground out of the corner of my eye. I thought it was a stray animal. As my eyes focused I realized I was watching a young homeless person poop! He pooped, got up and walked away. I felt awful for watching him without realizing and worse that he didn’t have a bathroom to go in.

Despite the poop, Granada is still beautiful. We plan to travel more of nicaragua (including the corn islands) and look for potential homes in December. We will definitely be stopping back in Granada to go to our favourite restaurant there – El Tercer Ojo on Calle El Arsenal. Yum!

Beware the sweet caribbean personalities are mostly genuine, but when you get robbed you are on your own…they can’t help or defend you against the natives they have to live in relative peace with after you are gone. I was raising some orphans in the region…in 1994 I was known as “THE white man.” There had been others who fled broke. That shouldn’t happen to me if I’m raising their failures, right? When drug addicts kidnapped 3 of my kids for ransom nobody helped me; they can and do get chopped with machete. In my case a small band of Christians helped me escape with one kid, my life and most of my stuff. I moved to Granada and raised kids there. Single moms brought them to me because they saw me caring tenderly for my retarded boy from the Atlantic coast. The boys I raised in Granada are men now with children who call me grandpa. Being grandpa via email, Skype and Xoom money transfers is more suited to my age, health and income today. I’m 70 now, the heat and mosquitoes in Nicaragua are too much for me. Social Security doesn’t provide plane tickets. Driving through Central America has become a nightmare and more costly.

I’m only going to comment on the horses, simply because I’ve been told by an expert.

The jutting hips and shoulders are not signs of starvation most often. Because we do not have hills here the muscles lack in these regions over time, so older horses will look like that.

There is a horse collective that cares for the horses. However a couple of things. Hay is incredibly expensive as is buying a new horse. When there is grass to wat the horses are healthier. So it is true that horses are used to their last breath, but it’s not that their owners do not care for them. I would say quite the opposite, these horses are the reason these men can put food on their families table.

We can not lose sight that we are living however comfortably in a third world country where there are a short distance away children who do not have proper nutrition.

I have lived in Masaya for several years and I love it. Granada is definitely a beautiful place too. I too, am concerned about the animals, especially the horses. I plan on living in Nicaragua until I die although my brother and sister in the USA are not happy about that. I wouldn’t mind living in SJDS. It is beautiful there as well.

Hi Olevia–we really like Masaya. It’s smaller and more tranquil–they people seemed more friendly to me as well. I’m glad you are happy in Nicaragua–at least it is an affordable place for your USA family to visit! =)

Yeah, Granada is a tough one. It was far from our favorite city and we only stayed a short time. We felt the atmosphere there was far more menacing than any other Central American town we’ve visited. As for the starving children… we were told numerous times that the local government has places the children can get food throughout the day but they beg anyway because they prefer the rich foods and sodas that foreigners will hand to them, rather than the typical food that is handed out for free. Either way, it’s a sad situation for all involved.

I’ve also been told that–and it was such a relief. The first week I was here, I thought they were really starving, and was very concerned. The kids have beautiful smiles and cheekiness–there is light and strength in those young ones… I hope more organizations are developed to help them pursue their different passions and talents.

The few nutritional programs there are have to limit their services to ‘members’ because the numbers of poor children are overwhelming. Though few practice actual catholicism, they don’t want risk going to hell for the sin of contraception.

Great post, Emily. I know that some expats living in Granada will take offense to some parts of this post, especially the bad and the ugly. They will say, “It is the same in any Latin American city in the world.” Of course, they are right, but I believe that it is important to show all sides of living in Nicaragua. We’ve lived in Nicaragua for 11 years on and off, the past 4 years permanently on Ometepe Island. We’ve seen expats come and go, always searching for their paradise on earth, which does not exist anywhere in the world. There is always a dirty side to living abroad. Tell it like it is! There are way too many expats that prefer to sweep the dirty and seedy side of living in Nicaragua under the rug.

I usually like to stick to the positive and see things in the best light… but I need to be honest with readers who might actually move here. I’m glad my fellow expats in Granada have been supportive of this post, thus far. By the way–I need to write more of our time on Ometepe..now, that really is almost paradise on Earth.

The greatest joy in my life is personally feeding hungry children and seeing the glow in their eyes as they eat. Nicaragua abounds with the opportunity to do this every day. Ask one to show you where they live and you can fall right into deep real life love, pain and drama far exceeding any you’ll find on TV.

I have spent a lot of time in Granada…haven’t really had any worries about safety…Only carry what money I need around,,,and NEVER my passport…and always take a taxi at night. Most of the ex.pats I’ve met help out in the community where they can… I volunteered with a group that fed children in El Pantenal.. glad too hear Dona’s info re the horses…

I’m glad you haven’t had any problems, Jild. If I’m not carrying a purse, I’m less concerned, but I always have to be aware of my surroundings. And yes, there’s a terrific expat community here in Granada.

Granada is an urban setting. Your article was extraordinarily descriptive. It is beautiful, cosmopolitan, and lots of expats who do things. I live on the Pacific Coast in the village of Limón Dos, near the major resorts of Guacalito, Redondo Bay, Iguana and Rancho Santana. Our beaches are beautiful, surfing and fishing are ourstanding, and there is bus service from Granada through Rivas.

We may not have concerts, art shows, and expat clubs. However, we do have a sense of community between the locals and expats. We need each other.

Come see us on the Coast. Rancho Santana doesn’t require a pass to have dinner, although you can certainly use my name at Condo 1B.

I just returned from la bokite, stayed at an ex-pates house, up from the beach. I waqs there for 8 days, being the green gringo student. I’m hooked on Nic and plan to return in september. This time I wish to travel farther south on pacific side.

You say you are writing about your experience, but your writing style is a list of “facts.” You are doing what most people come when they visit here: claiming you know the score when you have barely scratched the surface.

I have lived in Granada for many years and I pay the same prices as everybody else. I learned how to barter in the mercado and I have always paid 10 cordobas for a taxi around town. I get cat-called here, but I did in the U.S. as well. At least here I don’t have to worry that I might get shot at in random gang violence on the street.

You choose to eat at restaurants on La Calzada, which is a known tourist trap. Most people who live here know that, and know that in other areas you won’t be harassed while eating.

Granada might not be a good “fit” for some people and that makes sense. If you are white, you don’t speak much Spanish and your family hasn’t lived here for generations, you will always be an outsider here.

The bigger picture is that North Americans, even those who fancy themselves as humanitarians, are still colonialists at heart, searching for a place they can live for next to nothing, have servants and have people smile and be nice to them all of the time. Nicaragua is one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere. Knowing that why would someone choose to live here? The question is, what are you doing to help the situation here, besides being your beautiful, perfect self?

Thanks for your comment, Lisa. This article was acting as an introduction, specifically geared towards tourists visiting Granada. I agree that there is much more beneath the surface of this and any town.

I hope you your visit to Granada made you a more mature traveler. Nicaragua is an interesting country, but, you should expect some things in developing countries:

1. you will pay a skin tax. I know, I had blonde hair and hazel eyes and am from the Asian side of the planet. I have paid a skin tax all my life. I am amazed at people who don’t expect this. Of course you will pay more, the question is how much. That is why I like places like La Colonia, the prices are posted.

2. tourists are always prayed upon, everywhere. Opportunistic crime follows tourists, expect it. You have to be on the defensive all the time and think ahead. After a time it will be second nature. Use your experience as a teacher. Expats are always watched, everywhere. Avoid places like La Calzada, you are watched from the moment you walk on.

3. If you go to one of the most visited places in a country during the height of tourist season, you will get charged the highest prices. Everyone does that, it is called high season. If you don’t want to pay high season prices, don’t go at that time. Do your homework.

I try to remember at all times that I earned more in an hour than most of the local people earn in a month. I pay for a local kid’s high school fees because his mother sells frescos in the Mercado and his father works as a day laborer who on his best day may take home $2.00 (they have a family of five). Their dream is for one of their children to finish high school, high school, not graduate school. Did you not notice? Of course they see you as walking money, how could they not? I suggest that you take the tour of a local neighborhood that La Esperanza Granada, lakeside from the Garden Café, offers each morning. It will take you thru a barrio and show you the other side, where the real people live. You are rich beyond those people’s wildest dreams. If I have to pay an extra $1 for something, it will feed a local family for an entire day and I say that it is money well invested. I can afford it.

I look at it as investing in my grandchildren’s future, they will share the world with these children and I want a good future for both. What kind of a world do you want for the peers of your children? Remember, every adult you deal with is a mother or father who wants the same life for his/her children as you do. Treat them as you would want to be treated.

Yes, I took a walk in Pantanal and saw some of the poorest living conditions in the Americas. Traveling is always a learning experience and really does open your eyes–I’ve seen first hand the huge impact your birthplace has on the quality of your existence. Living in Granada exposed me to true poverty, the beautiful humanitarian projects that have sprouted from it, and a chance to make a big difference to many people with very little effort. I plan to elaborate these points in more topic-specific posts. Thank you for your comment.

Having lived in Costa Rica for 9 years, I can hardly agree that Costa Rica is safer, having had our SUV broken into 4 times in a guarded area, and frequent burglaries in the neighborhood. Our home was never broken into, only because there was never a moment when someone was not on the property, and armed. I also spent a good deal of time in the Central Valley, and my judgement is that this is endemic in Costa Rica. I’ll take Granada anytime in terms of safety over Costa Rica. I was flabbergasted the first time I visited Granada from Costa Rica and saw unguarded vehicles parked on the street overnight.

I have heard from many expats that the guarded/gated communities are the ones experiencing the most theft… it is almost like targeting yourself and announcing that you have things to “guard.” I have spent a little time in these gated communities in both Costa Rica and Nicaragua, and agree that they feel much less safe than living in normal homes on average streets. However, I still feel much safer in Costa Rica, personally. Maybe it was all the kidnapping and stabbing warnings I received from neighbors in Granada. I really only fear non-violent theft, like your car break-ins, in CR.

Hi Emily, Thanks for the article. I am planning a visit to Granada, Nicaragua from about Dec. 30-Jan. 6. I was planning to stay in Granada with maybe a night or two at San Simian. Your post makes me wonder about staying in Masaya instead as it will be less likely to be overcrowded at New Year’s. Anyway, just wondering if you have any additional thoughts about spending New Year’s in this area. I’m not looking for a big party atmosphere – more exploring places for retirement down the line. Thanks!

I think a week in Granada would be nice, especially with a two night’s stay somewhere else. Masaya is nice for a day trip. I’ve heard amazing things about Matagalpa. It’s a larger town, but cooler in climate. A bit far from Granada, though.. but many expats choose to retire there as well. Hope you have a great trip!

Hi Emily! I am enjoying your site. Very well done. Your Grenada article is spot on. I have been married to a Nica since 1996, and we are selling our home in the States to move permanently to Nicaragua. We are well aware of all the good, bad and ugly things in the country. We became painfully aware of the Bad on the 11th of this month, when several people broke into the family home and stole our 29 year old Scarlet Macaw named “Lupe”. We are devastated. She is like the little daughter that we never had. With that being said, I am appealing to you to help us locate our little one. Please contact all of your friend on every social network and ask them to put out the word to anyone in their circles. Together we have many eyes and ears, someone will see or hear something. Lupe is easily recognized due to deformed feathers on her wings. She is incapable of flight and totally dependent on us. Go to the Nicaragua Dispatch website for a full color photo. If you, or anyone has ANY information, please contact me at:PROFFESSOR10@gmail.com orochibowers@yahoo.com Together we can do this! Together we can bring her home! Thank you, Robert

Robert, I am very sorry to hear about Lupe. Was she stolen from a home in Granada? There are two Facebook groups you should post in, if you haven’t already: “Expats of Granada” and “Expats in Nicaragua.” I really hope you can get her back.

We’ve been living here for 2 months and I can’t say I disagree with any of your points. Theft – yes maybe. One of our group had an attempted robbery in the middle of the afternoon but she was alone and had a backpack and camera. All things NOT to do. I do have a big fancy camera and we use the buddy system and never after dark. We also don’t walk after dark we take a taxi.

I haven’t had any of the harassment issues – I guess I’m not bonita enough I did get one “que bonita” in Leon one day but I took it as a compliment and kept going.

Begging usually only happens on the Calzada – get off there you don’t see it. There are many great restaurants and bars NOT on that street too.

I’m glad you are experiencing less begging outside of the Calzada. It certainly is more heavily concentrated around this street and the park, but we often had beggars at our door, a few blocks away from the center. Very sad situation. Adults would also yell up to me while I sat at Kathy’s Waffles for money and food. Our security guard(s) also came to our door when we were located well outside of town, for money and dog food to feed the guard dog.