Took the camaro to the local 1/8th mile strip last night and I must say I am extremely disapointed with the times. Tried Several configurations on the traction control and found that having both traction control and stability track off with a 2000rpm launch gave me the best numbers. Any above 2000rpm and the track wouldn't hold the stock tires...

I had one pass with a 83.36MPH but a slower 9.275et and slower 2.245 60ft

Car is stock except for the Pypes Performance cat back exhaust. However using some online conversions I am would be looking at close to a 14.4 sec 1/4mile and that is unacceptable to me.

These times are about .5 sec slower than I was expecting and from watching several 4th gens and gto's I am thinking I must have an issue?

Advice? Do I need to do the fuse pull?

Thanks for any input you can offer. I want to try and make one more trip to the strip before replacing the rear tires... I am hoping to be in the 8.7 range or 13.5 1/4mi stock and I think that is being very conservative.

Launch is everything. Launch is were you pick up the most ET. I can floor it in my car in my sig for the first 60ft and let off and still coast to a high 7 or low 8 in the 1/8th, but my 60ft is around 1.4-1.5

Also ET is not effected by RT. They are two seperate timers. There are 2 beams that your front tires go thru on the start line. Once the light turns a RT timer starts then once the 2nd startline beam comes back together the RT timer stops and the ET timer starts then the ET timers stops when you pass the final beam at the end of the track.
To get the most ET you need to sit back as far as possible on those 2 beams at the start line. This gives you a rolling start when the ET timer starts. So when you stage you want to inch forward until you barely light the second stage light. If you roll and father then your roll out is reduced and you have less time to get rolling before the ET timer starts and you have a slower ET.
That is probley not anything to worry about untill you get your launch under control, but good to practice and will make a difference.

If you just got the car from a dealer it is very likely that it has 87 in it. I used to work for a couple dealers and we never put anything but 87 in any car. Some dealers may, but I doubt there are many that put 93 in. Still it comes down to the launch. If you coming out spinning, more power is just going to make it spin more. Drag radial will make a huge difference.

Launch is everything. Launch is were you pick up the most ET. I can floor it in my car in my sig for the first 60ft and let off and still coast to a high 7 or low 8 in the 1/8th, but my 60ft is around 1.4-1.5

Also ET is not effected by RT. They are two seperate timers. There are 2 beams that your front tires go thru on the start line. Once the light turns a RT timer starts then once the 2nd startline beam comes back together the RT timer stops and the ET timer starts then the ET timers stops when you pass the final beam at the end of the track.
To get the most ET you need to sit back as far as possible on those 2 beams at the start line. This gives you a rolling start when the ET timer starts. So when you stage you want to inch forward until you barely light the second stage light. If you roll and father then your roll out is reduced and you have less time to get rolling before the ET timer starts and you have a slower ET.
That is probley not anything to worry about untill you get your launch under control, but good to practice and will make a difference.

If you just got the car from a dealer it is very likely that it has 87 in it. I used to work for a couple dealers and we never put anything but 87 in any car. Some dealers may, but I doubt there are many that put 93 in. Still it comes down to the launch. If you coming out spinning, more power is just going to make it spin more. Drag radial will make a huge difference.

I will go practice the launch. I knew about the RT and ET being not related. I was pretty impressed with my first few RT's (best was the .513 on a .500 light). I used to race years ago (had an 87 IROC 350 TPI) just never took the 2010 until this weekend. I have had the car since April 09 and never did the fuse pull. My guess is part of the problem just might be the dealer putting in 87 octane. Car now as 20,000 miles.

Does anyone know for sure if the dealership can tell if the computer has been reprogrammed and returned to stock. I have read conflicting information on this. I know a tune can shave as much as .5sec or more by its self due to the torque management.

I will go practice the launch. I knew about the RT and ET being not related. I was pretty impressed with my first few RT's (best was the .513 on a .500 light). I used to race years ago (had an 87 IROC 350 TPI) just never took the 2010 until this weekend. I have had the car since April 09 and never did the fuse pull. My guess is part of the problem just might be the dealer putting in 87 octane. Car now as 20,000 miles.

Does anyone know for sure if the dealership can tell if the computer has been reprogrammed and returned to stock. I have read conflicting information on this. I know a tune can shave as much as .5sec or more by its self due to the torque management.

Thanks Again... Keep the input coming.

From what I understand about the tune, yes.
But I could be wrong. I am not 100% sure if it has a flash counter or not.
I know they can tell if it has been a tune on it while it has a tune, because they can check the bytes on the pcm vs stock, but if it does have a flash counter it will count up how many times it has been programed.

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