There's a little corner of Istanbul that's very special to us. Karaköy Fish Market (Karaköy Balık Pazarı) was not just a market but also a place to go and eat; you could eat anything from üskümrü / hamsi ekmek (mackerel or anchovy sandwich) to fish soup and even a full seafood platter whilst … [Read more...]

At exactly this time last year, we had just arrived in Istanbul and were walking down Istiklal Caddesi, heading towards Sultanahmet, after being dropped off by our service bus in Taksim Square. It had been a few years since we had last been to Istanbul and, despite a long bus journey with fitful … [Read more...]

Last winter, I wrote about hamsi (anchovies) being for sale on Fethiye fish market. We love hamsi season and it's once more upon us - which means we've come full circle on the seasonal food front, meaning Turkey's For Life is nearly 1 year old. Wow! How did that happen so soon? Anyway, hamsi is … [Read more...]

While the historic tram that trundles up and down Istiklal Caddesi all day long may be one of the little pieces of nostalgia that make up Beyoğlu (and a free ride for the kids who cling to the back of it), for us, the Tünel funicular is an absolute necessity. Walking down the hill towards Karaköy … [Read more...]

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