Papeete, Tahiti: (embark) Normally a no-nonsense guy, even taciturn Captain Cook fell madly in love with Tahiti . When Cook and botanist Joseph Banks landed in Matavai Bay in 1769, they found an untouched Eden. But it was the glowing tales of French explorer Compte Antoine de Bougainville that forever perpetuated the image of Tahiti as a voluptuous paradise of nature, attracting a bevy of followers, notably artist Paul Gauguin and writer Robert Louis Stevenson. Nearly 400 miles square, and almost bisected by the sea, Tahiti is skirted by miles of white and black sands. In the lushly forested mountains, waterfalls gleam and a sacred lake hides the spirits of the gods.

Tiputa, Rangiroa, Tuamotu The village of Tiputa has the charming ambience of a faded French colonial town that remembers grander times. Perhaps that's because the main attractions are not on shore but in the water. Rangiroa, the world's second largest lagoon, is a center of Polynesian pearl culture, where the frilly-shelled pinctada margaritifera oyster produces lustrous black pearls of eye-popping size. At a local pearl farm, see how oysters suspended in the lagoon are implanted with tiny “seeds,” later harvested as the legendary South Seas pearls. A drift dive or snorkeling in cave-lined Tiputa Pass is an effortless passage through pelagic paradise!

Takapoto, French Polynesia Takapota is an atoll in the Tuamotu group of French Polynesia. One anchores outside the atoll and takes a small craft ashore. One can walk through the small village or walk 40 minutes to the beach inside the lagoon for swimming, snorkeling and joining in for a barbeque picnic.

Fakarava, Tuamotu More than 250km from bustling Papeete, and contrasting markedly with the Society Islands' volcanic peaks, the far-flung Tuomotus are low-lying coral atolls scattered in palm-topped leis on a languid sea, seldom visited by tourists and cruise ships. Lucky for you! For this is a naturalist's nirvana and diver's delight. On Fakarava Lagoon, the Garuae Pass' 150 foot visibility offers in-your-face encounters with enormous schools of dolphins, rays, sharks and rainbows of reef fish. An old Catholic mission, dating from the 1850's, watches over Fakarava's 250 inhabitants, who support themselves mainly by pearl farming.

Huahine, Society Islands A laid back haven for surfers, ex-pats and others who prefer the road less traveled, Huahine offers an authentic example of what the islands used to be. Tahitian, rather than French, is the lingua franca and the island's numerous archaeological digs offer a fascinating window into the past. In sacred maraes reminiscent of Stonehenge , giant stones looking like gravestones remind you that human sacrifices were part of the Polynesian religious rituals. Near the settlement of Faie, ogle six-foot blue-eyed eels undulating in the water.

Raiatea, Society Islands When you venture up the jungle-clad shores of Raiatea 's Faaroa River you could well believe you'd been transported to pre-European times. A hike up Mt. Temehani might lead you to the sacred Tiare Apetahi flower, found only on Raiatea , while a walk through the sacred Marae Taputapuatea takes you to the place where the ancient Polynesians set out to explore the vast reaches of the Pacifac, ranging from New Zealand to Hawaii and Easter Island . Raiatea is also birthplace of the legendary god, Hiro, father of the Polynesians. The hibiscus tree, or purau , is the wood used since time immemorial for outriggers of Polynesian proas.

Bora Bora, Society Islands Even if you've never been there, most people recognize the chiseled peak of Mt. Otemanu on Bora Bora . This is where James Michener was stationed as a young naval officer, which later inspired him to write 'Tales of the South Pacific' . You can find remains of rusting WWII gun batteries hidden in the jungle-choked hillsides. Then quench your thirst at a bar called Bloody Mary's. In pre-European times, Bora Bora was the launching place for fierce war parties to other islands. Today the peaceful lagoon is a favorite snorkeling place where you can hand feed harmless black-tipped sharks.

Moorea, Society Islands Beloved by yachtsmen, Moorea's heart-stopping beauty is a vision of paradise that takes your breath away. This was the real-life site of Michener's longed for “special island,” Bali Hai. Your vessel anchors in both Cook's Bay and Opunahu Bay , so you'll have two opportunities to savor every glorious view of this spectacular island. Take a 4X4 ride to the old Kellum Stop Estate and the top of Belvedere, where your Polynesian guide picks a fresh fruit from a tree to refresh your palate as you drink in the stunning panorama.

Papeete, Tahiti: (disembark) Normally a no-nonsense guy, even taciturn Captain Cook fell madly in love with Tahiti . When Cook and botanist Joseph Banks landed in Matavai Bay in 1769, they found an untouched Eden. But it was the glowing tales of French explorer Compte Antoine de Bougainville that forever perpetuated the image of Tahiti as a voluptuous paradise of nature, attracting a bevy of followers, notably artist Paul Gauguin and writer Robert Louis Stevenson. Nearly 400 miles square, and almost bisected by the sea, Tahiti is skirted by miles of white and black sands. In the lushly forested mountains, waterfalls gleam and a sacred lake hides the spirits of the gods.

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