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If you are painting that Land Rover, then for an authentic finish, wet down vehicle thoroughly, drive for 5 miles down a dusty track, then apply Nato green from a 20 litre can using a worn out yard brush. As lumps fall off later, remedy with the special touch-up kit (1 litre can of Nato green and ball of cotton waste). Repeat every year until weight limit is reached then sell to someone who likes spending three months removing paint layers.😁

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Tecnically you'll only need etching primer for non ferrous surfaces. You can spot prime areas without removing large amounts of paint, then when topcoating do the primed area then a slight blow over the surrounding paint to match. For steel a good zinc rich primer is usually used.

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There are chemical 'pre-treatment' for difficult metals such as aluminium and stainless steels, used at wash stage prior to dry-powder or wet stove enamel. Then you just use the finish coat , so similar acid chemical(s) within a primer.

You may read about 'shop-primers' on new body panels , just a anti-corrosion primer for storage as spares - you may come across these on very cheap aftermarket body panels, up to you to strip and re-prime. Better aftermarket panels have quite a good primer - same as OEM - that you can't better. Land Rover 'Birmabright' panels (genuine) have had a good primer that you just de-nib & clean since late '70's. I understand most are alonized (not anodised) in any case prior and you don't wish to damage that.

Aluminium grades - without use of acid etch , You just well rough with a course production paper (not under P220) and apply primer (I always used a cellulose basic).

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Upoxy SUPER ETCH , is just that ! the best of all..

Upoxy Research Ltd , nr Edinburgh have been around many years for good reason(s). The trade use it for wings , plastic bumpers etc.

Edited September 5, 2018 by ruxyspelling

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There are chemical 'pre-treatment' for difficult metals such as aluminium and stainless steels, used at wash stage prior to dry-powder or wet stove enamel. Then you just use the finish coat , so similar acid chemical(s) within a primer.

You may read about 'shop-primers' on new body panels , just a anti-corrosion primer for storage as spares - you may come across these on very cheap aftermarket body panels, up to you to strip and re-prime. Better aftermarket panels have quite a good primer - same as OEM - that you can't better. Land Rover 'Birmabright' panels (genuine) have had a good primer that you just de-nib & clean since late '70's. I understand most are alonized (not anodised) in any case prior and you don't wish to damage that.

Aluminium grades - without use of acid etch , You just well rough with a course production paper (not under P220) and apply primer (I always used a cellulose basic).

---------------------------------------

Upoxy SUPER ETCH , is just that ! the best of all..

Upoxy Research Ltd , nr Edinburgh have been around many years for good reason(s). The trade use it for wings , plastic bumpers etc.

Thanks, not far from Edinburgh

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Super ETCH = 2 pack. I now try and avoid all 2 pack , I use a good breathing mask & always spray outside in open-air. I find the spray-gun hose enough to cope with (esp. if using a gravity gun) , may sometime go for a belt/filter unit.

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The acrylic single pack primers ,acid etch(s) - I have used have stayed fluid in the cans for ever. Handy to have for small area repairs.

The alkyd primers , acid etch(s) - I have used , part used cans have gelled but that was leaving them abt. 1 year.

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I keep a tin of this by International for small jobs , stays OK in the can for years and years. White is a good colour for a primer although out of choice I would not normally go for it.

Another leading manufacturer (no names no pack-drill) also has a paint called 'Special Metals Primer' , also water based and is a red-oxide shade - however it does not have a long storage life after the tin has been opened in my experience.

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A 'single-pack' will always have limitations, a "two-pack" (loose activator / acid) will always have more GRIP , and this is what is needed - obviously starts at commercial sized cans for spraying. Upol have some good stuff - so their rattle-cans may have what is needed. The modern (I have a small sample can - unopened , now 41 years old, it was in fact license Corroless by manuf. by Finnegans) glass-flake technology with acid in theory should give best anti-corrosion, a few are around - mainly for steel. However I don't think they are anywhere near as good as Upoxy Super Etch.