“Deviling” food usually involves flavoring with some combination of mustard (dry or prepared), black pepper, and other seasonings, but for our deviled short ribs we really wanted to feel the heat.

For tender meat and fully rendered fat, we first roast the seasoned ribs meat side down in a covered baking dish in a low oven. After cranking the heat and pouring off the juices, we brush the ribs with a potent mixture of dry and prepared mustards, citrus, brown sugar, and pureed jalapeños.

A few rounds of brushing and roasting creates a browned crust, and for even more crunch we finish the ribs with a coating of crunchy, buttery panko bread crumbs bolstered with fresh parsley and lemon zest.

Roasting-Braising Hybrid Method: Most short rib recipes call for searing, then braising, and finally turning the braising liquid into a sauce. For Deviled Beef Short Ribs, we took a different road: We put the ribs in a baking dish, meat side down, and roasted them (covered) until tender, about 3 hours. The meat cooked in its own rendered fat and juices, giving us fully rendered, super-tender short ribs without much hands-on work. To finish, we uncovered the ribs, brushed them with a glaze, roasted them meat side up, repeated, and then rolled them in toasted crumbs.