As has been the fashion in recent years, when most pubs get around to doing a refit, you know the "stripped-out" look isn't far away. Sam Smith's, not being ones to follow fashion (they're from Yorkshire, after all), tried something different a couple of years back. Having found the original Victorian plans, they turned back the clock in the Earl of Lonsdale. The large open bar was transformed into a succession of snug compartments, with tiny interconnecting gates; definitely not for the elderly or infirm. The place is festooned with etched glass and the dark wood glows with lustre. The cynical would say it is all for the benefit of attracting tourists looking for an olde pubbe experience; after all, they already feel the need to provide beer menus on all the tables, for those who might struggle ordering from the exclusively Sam Smith's range. Nevertheless, the place is clearly cared for and feels considerably cosy. For those who find the whole thing a little too claustrophobic or twee, the large back room is more open plan, with plenty of couches and two open fires and the beer garden is an attractive good place to relax. In an area where pubs are going the way of the Dodo, this place is a welcome relief, especially as on the Saturday afternoon we visited it wasn't as heaving as other places in the area.