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His products are of very good quality and were the lowest price that I could find. In addition, his technical support was top notch. Even called him personally while performing the installation in my garage for his support/direction on my project. I can't say enough good things about my experience. Took something that I was dreading to do and made it enjoyable and a huge learning experience.

A lot of what works or does not work also depends on the end users desires and expectations as well..Some guys can be happy with a few pieces of peel and seal and the next guy wants and desires a "limo rod" that rides like a limousine with all the attendant "comfort features.

Sam

05-28-2012 06:53 AM

DanTwoLakes

Sorry, I thought you wanted to wrap the pipes, not put it on the floor. My brain was not engaged when I posted that answer.

There already have been tests like that done, and not by a company with an axe to grind, by an end user. I will look and see if I can find it for you.

I don't think any of the asphalt or butyl based insulation products could handle the heat from exhaust pipes for an extended period of time.

I agree, if this stuff was laying next to the headers. But when applied inside under the carpet, is it going to reflect that head away? After reading (a lot of) the lizard skin link, it appears that if the stuff is marketed directly at car guys, the price is marked up. I'm just wondering if anyone tried the stuff.

Looks like what we need is a test. Say 12 x 12 panels covered with the various material. Take a heat gun to the backside for a couple of minutes then measure the radiated heat.

05-28-2012 02:51 AM

cobalt327

Quote:

Originally Posted by kristkustoms

Personally, i hate dynamat and all the simular insulations. It gums up EVERYTHING. Threads, wires, gas pedals, etc etc. As the title states, lets discuss Dynamat alternatives...

I'm not knocking your idea or the product, but the biggest complaint about Dynamat from most hotrodders is the cost of it. If this stuff is almost twice as thick, it's probably also twice as expensive.

05-27-2012 07:30 PM

35WINDOW

Well,

I guess I'll bring this one up, as it had intrigued me for Years-The W.R Grace Company makes a Roofing Underlayment that is made from butyl Rubber with an adhesive backing-it's called Grace Ultra, and I wonder if it would work well in our application-it's 30 mils thick (Dynamat Extreme is 1.7 mil)-

Grace Ultra
Grace Ultra is designed to protect sloped roofs from the effects of wind driven rain and ice dams in applications where the membrane must withstand high, in-service temperatures for extended periods of time. This membrane offers excellent performance at elevated temperatures, in hot desert southwest climates or any application where superior heat resistance is a requirement.

I don't think any of the asphalt or butyl based insulation products could handle the heat from exhaust pipes for an extended period of time.

05-27-2012 04:39 PM

hp246

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes

@hp 246: Yes, it works great on duct work.

I think the problem with most sound deadeners/heat shield/ insulation products is that everybody tries to cover every square inch with it. Anything will work to some degree. I just got some stuff called trunk liner that is about 1/8" thick and has a peel and stick backing on one side and a fuzzy surface on the other. It's only 10" wide, but I'll bet it would do a good job of insulating and noise reduction. It sticks like crazy, and it was really cheap. Here's a picture:

Dan,

I am most interested. In heat disapation from the long tube headers that run under the floor boards. I am referring to the butyl foil backed insulation available for heat at the local hardware. I know it is not the same as dynamic mat wonder if anyone has tried it.

05-27-2012 10:35 AM

OneMoreTime

A big deal on the heat subject is having good underhood ventilation..even using a conventional fan to help move underhood air. If the ventilation is present then the heat will not be so bad and the insulation will work better..as far as sound smaller pieces that deaden the vibration of the body metal will help..On new cars there is 300/400 lbs of insulation and carpeting for the purpose of making the car quiet..

Sam

05-27-2012 07:57 AM

75gmck25

DanTwoLakes comments bring up an important question. Are you trying to reduce sound, or provide heat insulation, or both?

- If you are trying to reduce heat you need good complete coverage of the panel. For example you need complete coverage of the firewall to prevent engine heat from transferring to the passenger compartment.
- If you are trying to only reduce noise, you don't need full coverage to reduce the panel resonance. A few well-placed sections of insulation will significantly reduce the panel's ability to amplify or transmit noise. That is why many products are sold in relatively small sheets. These may work very well to reduce noise for door panels or trunks.

Closed cell foam does not absorb water, and that is an advantage for some applications. However, I'm not sure that affects its noise absorption or insulation capability.

Bruce

05-26-2012 01:33 PM

dinger

I used homemade lizard skin and thermozite on my coupe, i am liking it. Pretty quiet ride, and my feet don't warm up much after a 80 mile drive. ( the furthest I have strayed from home.

05-26-2012 09:56 AM

slodat

I really like Elemental Designs eDead V5 cTherm. It is a liquid. Can be brushed on. None of the hassles of a roll type material. I have also used their butyl roll type with great success. Of course surface prep is essential, but that should not be an issue for an upholsterer.

05-25-2012 07:02 PM

DanTwoLakes

You really need to be talking apples to apples here. Brown Bread was made by B-Quiet, and is no longer available, and hasn't been for years. It has been replaced by B-Quiet Ultimate which has a higher butyl content. That means Brown Bread was part butyl and part asphalt, as is Ultimate.

Dynamat Extreme is totally butyl based, which means it is rubber, and has no asphalt. The other types of this product that are not butyl based are asphalt based, which means you might as well use roofing products.

Butyl based products are going to be more expensive than asphalt based products, and are going to be more heat resistant than asphalt based products or any combination of butyl and asphalt.

Closed cell and open cell has nothing to do with sound deadening or insulation, it refers to foam, like polyurethane, neoprene, and any other types of foamed products like PVC.

While any foam will demonstrate some tendencies to have sound deadening or insulating properties, it would not be superior to 100% butyl based products.

BTW, Shawn..........thanks for opening up this can of worms. There are Republicans , Democrats, and Independents, all of whom will tell you their ideas are superior. This topic has butyl proponents, butyl-asphalt proponents, and asphalt proponents, all of whom will tell you that their products are superior.

The other proponents are those of the Lizard Skin type products and people who will tell you that Lizard Skin can be made at home for a fraction of the cost.

The deal is dynamate is closed cell. I take that to mean it will not hold water . So better for the floor of the car.
Wicked sticky and wonder what the next guy will need to do when he needs to take it off for repair or some mod.
I used Brown Bread. Similar to Dynomat. little less money.

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