Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Depends a lot on what tires you have and what kind of "track" you are riding. You typically want a firm tire (more pressure) for a soft surface and a softer tire (less pressure) for a hard track but there are always exceptions depending on the details of the track and what tire you have mounted up. If you are riding a track with a lot of hard braking bumps or firm ruts or even tree roots (if you ride trails) you should run more pressure - like maybe 13-15PSI. If you run less than about 10PSI you risk pinching the tube and getting the rim damaged from sand intrusion between the bead and the tire which can cause a lot of problems unless you change your tires frequently and run multiple bead locks. To run really low pressures usually means you don't have the best tire on your bike for the conditions in my opinion.

To simplify:Soft track, hard tire - run 12-15PSIHard track, soft tire - run no less than 10PSI

there is a sticker on the chain guard of my 92 cb250 nighthawk. it specifies "cold tyre pressures", front and rear, both with and without passenger. all pressures are specified as 29 psi. this is a factory made sticker.

The tube has rotated on the rim. You will need to let the air out of the inner tube then "break the bead " on the tire to free the tire from the rim. With the tire edges now separated from the rim you can squeeze the tire and tube together as you turn the tire in the direction needed to rotate the inner tube back into alignment with the hole in the rim. Now refill the inner tube to 5 lbs less than the max pressure noted on the sidewall of the tire. Low tire pressure is what allowed the tire to spin on the rim, taking the tube with it.

Check your tire air pressure at least once a week and before long trips. Be sure to use an accurate pressure gauge.
-Check your air pressure when the tires are cold. The tires are cold when your motorcycle has been ridden less than a mile at moderate speed or after being stopped for three or more hours.
-If you must add air when your tires are hot, add four pounds per square inch (4 psi)(28 kPa) above the recommended cold inflation pressure. Recheck the inflation pressure when the tire is cold.
-Never release air from a hot tire in order to reach the recommended cold tire pressure. -Normal riding causes tires to run hotter and inflation pressure to increase. If you release air when your tires are hot, you may dangerously under inflate your tires.
-If your tires lose more than two pounds per square inch (2 psi)(14 kPa) per month, the tire, the valve, or wheel may be damaged. Consult your local dealer for an inspection.
-Use valve caps to keep valve cores clean, clear of debris and to help guard against air leakage.

Check your tire air pressure at least once a week and before long trips. Be sure to use an accurate pressure gauge.
-Check your air pressure when the tires are cold. The tires are cold when your motorcycle has been ridden less than a mile at moderate speed or after being stopped for three or more hours.
-If you must add air when your tires are hot, add four pounds per square inch (4 psi)(28 kPa) above the recommended cold inflation pressure. Recheck the inflation pressure when the tire is cold.
-Never release air from a hot tire in order to reach the recommended cold tire pressure. -Normal riding causes tires to run hotter and inflation pressure to increase. If you release air when your tires are hot, you may dangerously under inflate your tires.
-If your tires lose more than two pounds per square inch (2 psi)(14 kPa) per month, the tire, the valve, or wheel may be damaged. Consult your local dealer for an inspection.
-Use valve caps to keep valve cores clean, clear of debris and to help guard against air leakage.