8 oud fragrances that are perfect for first-time buyers of the scent

Vital to the Arabian beauty regime, this aromatic delicacy is sourced from a rare, tropical wood and is now being revived by contemporary fragrance houses. While the exotic, musky aroma of oud may be ingrained in Arab culture, the fragrance is far from antiquated. Once reserved for the elders, arousing nostalgic memories of tiny gold, bejewelled bottles on grandmothers’ vanity tables, oud is now widely on-trend, being blended by modern perfumers to appeal to a new generation of consumers.

SENTIMENTAL SCENTSInspired by the powerful sense of smell, Saudi-Kuwaiti brand Odict (a blend of the words ‘oud’ and ‘addict’) launched at Sephora in the Middle East earlier this year. “The intangible but very real scent of a perfume is a passageway to the unconscious,” Odict co-founder Omar Al Houli believes. Indeed, the woody, oriental and at times overpowering aroma of oud holds an inimitable allure and has influenced numerous perfumers world over.

Evoking euphoria and unlocking old memories are the driving forces behind young Arabs who inoculate their fragrances with oud. “Scent is a powerful trigger for emotions,” says Emirati perfumer Amna Al Habtoor, who launched her brand, Arcadia, earlier this year as an ode to her late mother. The fragrances feature underlying notes of oud, musk and amber. “Like most Emirati households, I grew up watching my mother burn wood chips that had been soaked in her homemade perfume for days,” she says. Emirati perfumer Asim Al Qassim was also inspired by memories of his mother distributing oud throughout their home, and before launching his fragrance brand, Anfas, he travelled to India and Indonesia to explore the availability of authentic oud.

DEEP ROOTSToday, the piquant aroma of oud is a trademark scent of the Middle East—but unbeknownst to most, it was first discovered in South East Asia, before spreading to the Arab world. Oud oil is distilled from agarwood, which, due to its scarcity and high demand, is thought to be the world’s most expensive wood. Agarwood is the heartwood of a tropical tree called aquilaria, and it’s produced as a defence mechanism when the tree fights an infection—which, these days, is often deliberately induced by humans in order to obtain the rare, resinous wood.

DESIGNER BLENDSOud has always been a unisex scent. Today, even the most luxurious fashion houses have concocted their own blends from the oil. Tom Ford was the first to exploit the Eastern aroma, followed by Christian Dior, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and many more. Like the kohl-rimmed eye make-up trends and wave of modest fashion borrowed from the East, oud has become somewhat of a buzzword in the industry. But if you want to experience the essence in its most enticing form, you’ll buy your bottle from an up-and-coming Arab perfumer who will provide you with an enchanting but contemporary blend, or from a street-side souk, where the pungent aroma will permeate your nostrils before you even set foot in the old-fashioned olfactory utopia.

The biggest beauty import from the Middle East is reinventing its heady reputation with light, airy concoctions. Check out our picks in the gallery above.