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Roberto Cavalli

locationMilan, 30 September 2006

locationMilan, 30 September 2006

COBBLE stones do not bode well for high heels, which is perhaps why <a href="Roberto Cavalli" onclick="window.open('/vogue_daily/popup.asp?keyword=Roberto Cavalli','search', 'toolbar=0,status=no,menuBar=0,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,width=250,height=450,left=10,top=100')" class="maintextimageu">Roberto Cavalli took the almost sacrilegious decision to send his models down the cobbled courtyard catwalk in flat sandals, with a black and white projection of 1920s Florence spanning the back wall. Cavalli is a cultural magpie, and flitted from last season’s Shangai opium den aesthetic to a strong Spanish accent, with a nod to Frida Kahlo. His first look, a matador jacket and trousers, were saved from overt masculinity by the gentle brocade of lace tapering down the sleeve, and the blue satin pussy-bow.

There was a certain monastic grace to a billowing pure white dress with layered puff sleeves, not a quality inherent to a showman such as Cavalli, but perhaps an acknowledgement of the Spanish forefather of fashion, Cristobal Balenciaga. There were flamenco ruffles and flounces, trimming the most elaborate and high octane of evening dresses, but the emphasis was on romance rather than sex appeal, with voluminous shapes and soft baby blues, the Kahlo connection coming in the form of ethnic, beaded belts and large hoop earrings. But you can’t keep a good showman down, and by the end his core clientele of yacht-hopping party girls were left satisfied: shimmering, sparkly metallic minidresses and animal print in abundance didn’t have a clear alignment to the rest of the collection, but then what is Cavalli without a little sparkle and leopard print? (2 October 2006, AM)

Stephen Doig

<B>TOP TEN FASHION TIPS</B><BR><BR>

1. Spanish senorita style

2. Large hoop earrings. Less bling more gypsy queen

3. Matador jackets

4. Jet black, scraped back hair

5. Frida Kahlo eyes. By that we mean heavily khol rimmed, not monobrowed