Friday, July 4, 2014

Arles: A Round Up

Tomorrow we go from Arles to Montpellier, a bit south and somewhat west of where we are now. I am most definitely looking forward to the next part of the vacation (even as I continue to dwell on this one) but, as a writer in my heart, I cannot resist sharing early reflections on this delightful destination:

I wanted a slow place, reminiscent (in terms of pace) of Quebec City. It is most definitely that. It is also surprisingly sexy - as long as you don't define sexy in terms of haute-luxury. It's very earthy.

The atmosphere is languid and sultry. It feels like Spain in this part of the world. Of course, the French would have you know that Spain feels like France.

The food is very good. I haven't hit the full-meal jackpot at a restaurant yet, but this dish was utterly fantastic:

There is lots of culture here, even though the town is on the small side. If you like museums, there are 3 of them (with worthwhile collections); if music or photography appeal, there are festivals for both in the summer. There's a Roman arena (the architectural claim to fame of Arles - only outdone by the Alyscamps, depending on whom you ask). There's Camarguaise bull-fighting at the arena - a totally bizarre spectacle. The fighting style in this region is non-violent (though mean, if you ask me).

Click on this photo to see the panoramic fabness in full size...

It's gorgeously old here, in a vaguely creepy way. Streets meander into other streets. Detours return you to your starting point. People live here. They stay up all night - talking. It's noisy. It's messy. But it makes for atmospheric photos:

Arles is all about its light. I can totally understand why everyone wants to decamp to Provence. The watery sunlight is spectacular, engaged in centuries of collaboration with the stones. It's is a player in this place, a guest at the table, an ancient friend. When the sun fades, the town loses a considerable portion of its luster (IMO). Happily, the sun seems to shine most of the time (and rain, while heavy, is not long-lasting).

The temperature is fucking perfect - like 28C with no humidity. Honestly, I'm beginning to feel like I live in the shittiest part of the world for weather. It's always dull - or cold, or wet, or freezing, or like an oven or threatening to be one of those things. In my town, temperate weather is practically an unknown. It's is a trickster. Even in summer, it is unwise to leave the house without a sweater and an umbrella (and you're probably wearing pants). In Arles, you put on some shorts and a t shirt. You wear them out in the morning. The temperature is perfect. In the evening, you to wear the same shorts and top (or a little sundress, perhaps). The temperature continues to be perfect. It storms for an hour. While you watch the rain, you note that the temperature is perfect. Life, from this vantage point, is so tremendously easy. This experience has helped me to viscerally reaffirm my ever-deepening perspective that it's hard to live in a northern, interior city because every move you make takes foresight. I love not having to concern myself with the environment!

Lots of people suggested to me that there wouldn't be enough to do for 4 days in this one town but I am here to refute that. I was looking for a rest. An hour in the plaza with a glass of wine while people-watching. A day in the house napping and cooking and partying with my husband. A great meal at a tiny bistro. Walking through the streets and observing architectural gems. I'm not in this vacation for big box museums and attractions - and yet we've gone to museums and spectacles! So don't worry about not having adequate activity, unless you're looking to be in the fray.

And, if you want to know about a great venue, email me. This house is not perfect for everyone, but it might just be for you.

15 comments:

Thank you for this awesome mini travelogue! Next year is a major milestone for the women in my family (40 for me, 65 for my aunt, 70 for my mother) - and we're tossing about the idea of spending some time in France to celebrate/adjust :)Arles sounds perfectly delightful!

Lovely. In a lot of ways, it sounds like my stays in Turkey, especially in places with ancient Roman and Greek ruins. Love those places. Thank you for sharing your trip with us. I've got a glass of wine right next to me at the moment, and I'm lifting it to you and Scott!

Lovely photos and commentaire on Arles. Enjoy your time in Montpelier. The public garden is gorgeous and lots of action in the main square. Lovely little shops in the old part of town - we found an entire store devoted to Tintin. J'adore le sud. Essayez le vin rose.

We've been all over the rose! It's perfect in this climate! And thanks for the info about the gardens, which I love to visit. Foreign plants are so fascinating. I'll keep you posted on the next leg of the trip!

Oh, this really brings out your very best writing . . . and you look fab as well -- those shorts were a v. good buy!I was in Arles solo when I was almost 40, leaving my 4 kids at home, sending my husband back to them after we had 2 weeks in the Auvergne together. Something I needed to prove to myself at the point. . . I remember a meal eaten at dusk in the street in front of a restaurant. . . particularly the crudités I dipped, deliciously, langourously, each one, into the pot of aioli accompanying them. Arles was the first place, too, that I remember hearing those screeching, piercing cries of the swooping swallows, les hirondelles. Opening a bottle of rosé tonight in your honour. . . .

OMG - Scott cannot shut up about those swallows (which I'm listening to right now in Montpellier - along with a fucking stupid party in the building next door. What is it about fucking stupid parties and me?????) As I write, those hirondelles are SCREECHING in a freakish way. We just got home from dinner at a bistro - very nice. We each had 2 aperatifs and shared a bottle of wine. Rather tipsy maintenant...

Hmmm, this was obviously posted preThe Horror! So does Scott like the swallows? I've got mixed feelings. I mean, their flight is so cool, mosquito-catching as they swoop, and the sound is such a distinctive part of the memory-soundscape for me, but OMG it's sharp! Shrieking, screeching, piercing . . . sharp! What was the aperitif? Kir? or something Pernod/Absinthe-y?

Oh, that was before all hell broke loose. I actually went very TO with the aperatif - martini blanc on ice. I thought of Pernod, but it's a bit much before food IMO. Might have been good for the stomach, however.

Feel Free to Email Me At

Here am I...

But Enough About Me...

Form/Function. Line/Curve. Safe/Risk. Art/Craft. Body/Mind.
Fashion intersects these. It's how we express what is popular in what is personal. It's where intellect debates sex; where soft and hard duke it out. So much mystery underpins beautiful things. So much confidence rests upon them. Discuss.