FWIW - i think the scarbird system is cleaner to install. i have the AAJ kit on my truck and i am quite pleased with the stopping power. i would suspect a power booster would take it to a whole new level...

1959-71 Dodge Y2 ton Pickup, 1964-70 A100 % ton w/22001b axle
Front Disc brake conversion
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer
control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of
penetrant oil, such as AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the base of the studs,
then pressing out and discarding studs. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or
bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010" loose fit. This
is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. A 100 hubs will not require machining.
Replace studs with X" longer or more studs. Mopar used several different suppliers for the
drums, and they had 3 different sized studs. Dorman 610-103 is one. Best approach is to use an
ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length.
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then
removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all
drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper
opening to the rear (A 100 faces forward). Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.
There was some variance in the spindle's lower bolt holes, so we left the holes small. Drill out to
match spindle hole size.
5. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls
interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut
to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down
rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner.
8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
9. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts
~.""..;:;:~_ to _35f09t-pounds. Check fit~t and ro~t9[10 c-M£.k,.clearance~stall flexJi!1e-s. -_~
e- < - 10. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1972 OIW
100 or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and
manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or
use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops.
11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to
eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam
from a pressure imbalance.
12. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard
stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops
will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front
Caliper, LH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab
Caliper, RH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab

Thanks for the imput. After reading all that and given my curent mechanical skill level the whole idea of front disc brakes has been officially terminated. I told the wife she will just need to have more space
between her and the vehicle in front. I also happen to have spare front bumper just in case...

All the parts for the kit I ordered from AutoZone (minus the backing plates). I would guess that !00% total final cost was less than $300. Though it can be done more cheaply if you enjoy your time in the junk yard.

The stopping difference is unexplainable. The closest I can get in words are: 1) my wife refused to drive the truck before and now she has no problem, & 2) I drive it around in Atlanta with all of our terrible traffic without any fear.

Chilort is absolutely right. I like the brakes on my truck better than the ones on my wife's Mazda Tribute. The Scarebird kit really isn't that hard to install.

One big suggestion---don't scrimp on new brake hoses. I got a pair of braided stainless steel hoses made custom and they have a huge impact.

Back when I had my Sportster I replaced the front brake hose with braided stainless and it made a big difference in that application, too. You get less give in the walls of the hose so all of your effort goes directly to the caliper.

MountainMoparRobin wrote:if your uncomfortable with the replacing drum for disc, you can buy a power booster at the local part store $125.00 which will give you results better than drum, and close to the disc.

If you have any part numbers on these boosters would be helpful to me as well.

1959-71 Dodge Y2 ton Pickup, 1964-70 A100 % ton w/22001b axle
Front Disc brake conversion
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer
control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of
penetrant oil, such as AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the base of the studs,
then pressing out and discarding studs. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or
bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010" loose fit. This
is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. A 100 hubs will not require machining.
Replace studs with X" longer or more studs. Mopar used several different suppliers for the
drums, and they had 3 different sized studs. Dorman 610-103 is one. Best approach is to use an
ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length.
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then
removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all
drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper
opening to the rear (A 100 faces forward). Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.
There was some variance in the spindle's lower bolt holes, so we left the holes small. Drill out to
match spindle hole size.
5. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls
interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut
to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down
rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner.
8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
9. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts
~.""..;:;:~_ to _35f09t-pounds. Check fit~t and ro~t9[10 c-M£.k,.clearance~stall flexJi!1e-s. -_~
e- < - 10. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1972 OIW
100 or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and
manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or
use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops.
11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to
eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam
from a pressure imbalance.
12. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard
stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops
will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front
Caliper, LH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab
Caliper, RH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab

1959-71 Dodge Y2 ton Pickup, 1964-70 A100 % ton w/22001b axle
Front Disc brake conversion
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer
control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of
penetrant oil, such as AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the base of the studs,
then pressing out and discarding studs. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or
bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010" loose fit. This
is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. A 100 hubs will not require machining.
Replace studs with X" longer or more studs. Mopar used several different suppliers for the
drums, and they had 3 different sized studs. Dorman 610-103 is one. Best approach is to use an
ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length.
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then
removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all
drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper
opening to the rear (A 100 faces forward). Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.
There was some variance in the spindle's lower bolt holes, so we left the holes small. Drill out to
match spindle hole size.
5. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls
interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut
to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down
rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner.
8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
9. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts
~.""..;:;:~_ to _35f09t-pounds. Check fit~t and ro~t9[10 c-M£.k,.clearance~stall flexJi!1e-s. -_~
e- < - 10. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1972 OIW
100 or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and
manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or
use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops.
11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to
eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam
from a pressure imbalance.
12. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard
stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops
will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front
Caliper, LH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab
Caliper, RH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab

ditto! I'm getting ready for this conversion and wondering why scarebird couldn't provide a write up like this? I have a question regarding brake hose and brake line size... what is it?! I would love to replace at least all the brake line to the fronts (stainless or aluminum) and get braided brake hose, anyone know what size brake line and what specs of brake hose are needed for a '66 d100?

Grodr625 wrote:
ditto! I'm getting ready for this conversion and wondering why scarebird couldn't provide a write up like this? I have a question regarding brake hose and brake line size... what is it?! I would love to replace at least all the brake line to the fronts (stainless or aluminum) and get braided brake hose, anyone know what size brake line and what specs of brake hose are needed for a '66 d100?

The hard line is just 1/4". I ordered something like 20' from Summit. Be sure to be careful with all of the fittings because some of them are not that easy to find these days. You likely can find all new if you need to but a few minutes with a can of PB Blaster is likely to save you several hours of hunting down fittings.

I have no idea what the size of the soft line is though so I'm no help there.

This shows the whole application. But it doesn't give you anything as far as diameter of the brake hoses and the like. But It does show you some very helpful info. At least it did for me. Currently in the process of removing the original brakes having a difficult time with lower backing plate mounting bolts. forty plus years of corrosion is alot of fun when you dont have a press.

HAIRYBIKINI wrote:Has anybody done these on the stock wheels, and if so were there any clearance issues? I'm looking to do this but I'm running on the stock rims.

if your doing stock you might want to look at using a wheel spacer, the stock rims don't have the amount of clearance you need for the caliper. and you wont be able to put the wheel back on the truck unless you use a spacer. if you use your stock hubs and replace the studs it will provide plenty of length to use a spacer.

HAIRYBIKINI wrote:Has anybody done these on the stock wheels, and if so were there any clearance issues? I'm looking to do this but I'm running on the stock rims.

if your doing stock you might want to look at using a wheel spacer, the stock rims don't have the amount of clearance you need for the caliper. and you wont be able to put the wheel back on the truck unless you use a spacer. if you use your stock hubs and replace the studs it will provide plenty of length to use a spacer.

Good to hear. Any recommendations on where to source the spacers? I just ordered everything (I hope).

HAIRYBIKINI wrote:Has anybody done these on the stock wheels, and if so were there any clearance issues? I'm looking to do this but I'm running on the stock rims.

if your doing stock you might want to look at using a wheel spacer, the stock rims don't have the amount of clearance you need for the caliper. and you wont be able to put the wheel back on the truck unless you use a spacer. if you use your stock hubs and replace the studs it will provide plenty of length to use a spacer.

Good to hear. Any recommendations on where to source the spacers? I just ordered everything (I hope).