Yesterday was nice, but windy. We simulclimbed Johnny Vegas with the 5.9 variation, to sundog on the upper slab. Got a bit unpleasant with the wind and cold on the second to last pitch, so we bailed. That was interesting, as rapping with a single 80m rope means having to do some downclimbing here and there.

The way things are going I am having to spend a lot of time
in calif working as My wife is unable to find any work.
So I am the sole supporter right now for my wife.
and I have to stay where the work is, what little there is.
I can't even afford to go to vegas as the gas money it takes can
pay a bill or 2. I did have a job in Vegas last weekend so I was able to make it back for a couple of days,to see the wife, and do the job.
I made enough to pay a couple of bills and have gas money to get back to Calif.

you live W of 215 on Charleston? That's the zone I applied for a house in. Fingers crossed I get it."

I live 30 seconds from 215 at the next exit past Charleston (far hills). Absolutely love it over here. Before that, I lived 35 - 40 minutes from RR in the south part of town.

I specifically moved over here to be close to RR, for easy climbing access, and so I can go out the door on my bike. Riding in my old hood was terrifying. In the 8 months I lived there, I rode exactly twice, and was in fear for my life.

Here, it's a joy. Every road has a big shoulder / bike lane, and drivers are much more aware - since there are riders everywhere.

The full ride from my door, around the loop road and back is a total of 34 miles. Can't beat that with a stick!

Good luck with your search. There's actually a small house about 100 yards from mine with a for rent sign on the lawn. Want some pics and the number?

Ok, let me know if you need that info. Maybe we can get together for some climbing / riding after you arrive. I just started back climbing in October after having to quit 10 years ago. Still shaking out the cobwebs and working on getting fit as fast as I can, because there's a LOT of things I want to tick before the season is over. Stuck in the 5.10 zone for now.

"Looks like from this pic they took the longer wrong trail to Birdland."

That IS the trail to Brass Wall. Isn't there only one trail? Head towards Dark Shadows and turn right head up the hill. Are there 2 trails or a better one? Please share yer secrets and I'll buy ya a beer when I get there next:-)

Here's a couple from last week. Nightcrawler on the brownstone wall. Me at the belay and then following. Handren guide calls it 10c, but it felt quite stout for that grade. Pitch 3 and 4 both get that rating, but both felt harder for different reasons.

Pitch 3 starts with wide stemming with left hand in a wide crack and right hand in a finger crack. I have a lot of trouble with stems because of hip arthritis, so I had to do that part straight in on the finger crack. I know it looks like I am stemming, but that is actually a gigantic drop knee twist for a rest. I cannot spread that wide in the usual both-toes-out position.

Having to do the start of pitch 3 as a straight in / layback finger crack puts it into 5.11 territory, IMO. Luckily I was on the follow because there is no chance I could have stopped to place gear.

Later on in the pitch there is a very delicate and technical reachy move off a ledge that felt very hard.

Pitch 4 is more straight forward, but also more strenuous.

Upon reading about the route on mountain project, it seems the consensus is that 5.10d is more accurate. There's even a report that allegedly, Uriosite says it has always been 10+ this made me feel a little better about the 25 + foot whip I took off the top of pitch 4.

Anyway, this is one of the best routes I've ever done. Rock quality is superb, and the position and view are amazeballs. The only thing that lessened the experience was the burly hike. I am not a giod hiker.