Red-flannel hash is a mostly forgotten American classic. With roasted beets, roasted potatoes, cheese, onions, horseradish and other strong flavors, Jessica Koslow of the hipster-chic Los Angeles restaurant Sqirl both revives it — and makes it beautiful. The sharpness of the dish is achieved with the addition of lemon juice or zest at every turn, that horseradish and a tiny but unusual little salad of asparagus, carrots and greens.

Preparation

Heat the oven to 425. Rub the potatoes and beets with a bit of oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and wrap individually in foil. Put on a rimmed baking sheet, and roast until easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, 40 to 60 minutes, depending on their size. (Remove as they are done.)

Toss the onions in enough olive oil to coat. When the potatoes and beets are about halfway into their cooking time, add the onions to the pan, and roast, turning occasionally until they’re tender but not caramelized, 20 to 25 minutes.

Combine the crème fraîche and horseradish in a small bowl, and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.

Combine the asparagus, carrots, mint and greens in a bowl. Just before serving, drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 teaspoons lemon juice; add 1 teaspoon of lemon zest and a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and toss. Taste, and adjust the seasoning, adding more of whatever you’d like.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, crush them with your hands; peel and trim the beets, and chop to about the same size; same with the onions. Mix with the corned beef if you’re using it, along with the scallions, cheese and some salt and pepper.

Put 2 tablespoons each of olive oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot but not smoking, add the potatoes and beets, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Shake the pan to form a single layer, and cook undisturbed, but adjusting the heat as necessary so that the vegetables sizzle and bubble. Add more butter if the pan looks dry, but the hash should never look oily. Cook until the potatoes and beets are golden brown on the bottom, 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn, taste, adjust the seasoning, then sprinkle with some lemon juice and salt. Serve topped with a fried egg and a bit more lemon juice, with the asparagus salad on the side.

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