So this is my rough little project i did to fit my ego 7 frame onto my cocker and it worked, so im gonna try to explain how to go about doing it the way i did. Remember this is my first time with a dremel ever... no joke. So this is a very rough look. I am currently working on another project with a new frame and u can PM me if ud like to see pix or a link to the project. Check out my sig ill add the link when the no block airbolt project is done.

Remember that in order to do this project your going to need your cocker to have an MQ valve. Google mq2 valve for more info.

Lets start off with the orginal pix.

So were gonna have to do quite a couple things to get the board to fit in right. The board will fit perfectly into two of the screw holes for the ego board in the frame. So were just gonna need to sand down a lot and chop 2 things to get it to fit nicely.

The tools i will be using are, sand paper, a dremel and some dremel bits. Remember to wear a mask and goggles so no debris fly into your eyes like what happened to me, or so that you dont inhale anything like what happened to my friend 8P

So heres a couple pix of what we will be using to do the work.

Heres the dremel i use, its a basic two speed dremel, pretty much any one will get the job done.

Here are the main tools i used... On the right are my small dremel cutting disks, these things are good for fine cutting and will cut through your frame like butter. But becareful as they will break and u will go through many of these. On the dremel is a larger cutting disk i used for more heavy duty stuff, and for sanding down hard to reach areas, like the inside of the frame. It also works good for cutting/sanding if you hold it at an angle. Then to the right of that is the sander, for sanding of course, and then the buffing wheel for making your frame shine 8D
And then the last dremel bit, which you will be using to drill the holes for the frame.

Heres some pix for referance so u can see the work we will need to do.
EDIT: WARNING you may need to take a dremel and grind out the inside of the frame where the buttons go. Only slightly not so much so that the buttons will not stay in there, but if your board does not fit snug or if you are using a board that has bigger parts like the tadao oled board, you will have to do this extra grinding. You might also have to grind out the inside of the frame where the trigger sits near the screw hole you have to cut off, so that the optical switch on the board does not rub on the trigger. You can also try grinding down the trigger a bit more.

First off you should start by chopping the front of the frame because it sticks out too far and well just doesnt make it fit or look right. Cut it how ever you like or as you see fit when you match up to the body. I just eyed it out and made an angled cut as you can see in the second pic. I used the fine cutting blades that break a lot for this part.

Here it is before the cut.
and after.
And then i sanded it down to make it look better

When i do all my sanding i either start with 60 grit sand paper or i use the sanding wheel or the larger cutting blade as a sander for the dremel. I do most of the sanding to where i want it. Then ill take 400 grit to it for a while. Then 600 grit. Then 600 grit with water, my 600 grit is wet or dry sand paper. Then i polish and it looks really nice.

Once you get the front end fitted and looking nice then your probably gonna want to get the frame fitting flush to the body. So your gonna need to take the fine cutting blades and just line it up so it matches up flat with the lower end of the top of the frame. Then you can start the cut and just keep the cut straight and youll beable to cut a pretty much perfect cut. Then maybe a bit of sanding and it will be perfect. Remember that when you do this your gonna lose one of the screw holes for the grip. But it doesnt really matter, you can see this in the second pic.

So here it is starting the cut.
Then most of it off.
And here it is with the back off.
And finally matching it up to the body so u can see how it fits.

Now that thats out of the way we should start drilling the holes to match the body of your marker. You could probably come up with a better way than i did but this is how i went about doing it. I matched the frame to the body, slid it to the side and then made to marks, one on either side of the screw hole, so i know the width of the hole. I then did that for both the back hole and front hole. Once that was done i made another mark in the center of the two marks, so i knew around where i should start my hole. I then took a ruler and lined it up to the middle mark, and lined it up to the width of the body and made a mark perfectly in the center of the frame.
I then took the drill bit and started a hole on the dot. Once i made it through i started grinding around the edges of the hole with the drill bit in a circular motion to make the hole bigger.

Heres a picture of the 3 marks i was talking about.
And heres a pic of the dot once i measured half way across the width of the frame on the back end.
Heres a shot of the back hole.
Heres a top view of the front hole.

Now that your holes are drilled you can mount the frame onto the body of your cocker. The only problem is that your grip wont fit. Now im not sure how you would go about doing this with regular grips, but if u buy those thing plastic grips like i have u can just dremel them down and even dremel out curves for your fingers to make it feel bettere.
Skip this if you dont have these kind of grips...
So first off you should stick your grips on your frame.

So first off you should stick your grips on your frame.
Then your gonna wanna take a dremel to cut off the top and make it match. I Used the sanding bit for this.

In order to make the grips not look all scratched up your gonna want to lightly sand out all the nicks from the edges of the sanding bit, then your gonna wanna follow the procces i mentioned before, where i used 400 grit sand paper and then 600 grit, and then 600 grit wet, and then buffing.

Heres some pix of what i did to my grips.
The red in this pic is from the polishing material goo stuff i used 8P
Dont wind up shaving it too far like i did here...

Now for the time consuming part, grinding out the insides for the board. Remember the amount of grinding needed depends on what board u have. For the yakuza oled cocker boards you will need to do a lot of grinding. IMO you might be better off using just a stock e2 board.

Now the first thing your gonna wanna do is cut off a piece of the frame on the right in order for you to beable to put your board in. I used the fine cutting blade for the cutting.

Heres a pic of what were cutting.
Heres a pic of it cut off.

After you’ve done that your gonna have to do a lot of grinding on the inside to get the board to drop in. Its really really hard to grind it out right and get the board squeezed in there so please be as careful as you can because I take no responsibility for anything you may break while trying this. I chipped my optical eye trigger switch, but luckely it still works.
Heres the grinding pic again.
[IMG] http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11...rdFitGrind.jpg [/IMG]
Heres the grinding ive done.
But be careful not to do this 8P
The main grinding needing to be done is just for the little black barrel shaped thing on the board. Its on the top left corner. Becareful cuz some boards have diff sized ones, and idk if a yakuza oled board will fit in their comfortably. And then your gonna need a little bit of grinding near the back of the trigger on the inside of the frame, cuz the board is a bit too wide.

Now that the board fits there two thing left to do, other than some finishing polishing if you havent already done that. if you try to fit the board in make sure the trigger is not in the frame, it will get in the way.

Heres a pic of the trigger carier. And what you need to do to it.
This is only if you have the 3 way solenoid on the front of your cocker. But that will apply to almost all of you.
I used the fat black grinding/cutting disks for cutting it out.

Since it was my first time and i wasnt paying attention cuz i was tired, i cut the trigger pin and one of the bearings. Make sure you take these out or be careful.
Heres a pic of it after.
Keep in mind that its gonna be a tight fit, and it makes it easier if your remove the black rubber tubbing on the solenod wires. I just used a razor blade to get it off. Also if you mess up the trigger carrier you can cause a lot of side to side play so be careful. Dont make it looks the way it does in my picture.

Once that is done the only thing left is to make the trigger fit.
The trigger needs to be shaved down on one of the sides, otherwise it rubs up against the board and the trigger wont move freely.

*edit* You may also need to grind down the back of the trigger. Where you will mod it to set off the optical switch on the board. If you do, the trigger will stick, because it is getting pressed too hard up against the optical switch.
Yes the trigger can touch the optical switch so be careful so that it does not, and you do not break it.

Heres a pic of the grinding i did so you can get an idea of what you need to do.

Now in order to allow the optical trigger switch to work, your gonna need to put something onto the trigger to go past the eyes on the board. I saw some one use a piece of plastic, but i found it to be easier / more reliable to use the cut off end of an allen wrench.
Heres the pic.

Once your done with that you should be done and your sexy looking marker should have the frame fitting onto it nicely like mine in these pics here.
Enjoy 8 )