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Ouch, I *only* broke 3 when I did mine a few months ago & it had 75k on the clock. Took me a while to get it running b/c I attempted it before I purchased the Lisle tool (I figure why spend money if it's not needed). It was nerve-racking using the tool but all of them came out without a hitch. Replaced them with Champion 7989s, 1 piece design so no chance of going through that headache again. Good luck!

Thanks for the support guys! Lisle tool is ordered and being overnighted.
I would go to the Champions but already bought OEM replacements and my eventual plans for the car will allow me to change to the 08+ heads anyways.

The new thread design is better and the Ford Racing heads I am looking at use that design. Those are far off from now though... Have to get my exhaust on and then plan to FRPP Hotrod next summer. What heads are you looking at?

BTW, what parts of the plug are left and where? Is it just the porcelain?

I was looking at the FRPP heads too. That route with Hotrods and LTs will be all I need to smile more.

Oh man, I have one empty tip, one tip with the porcelain, and three whole plugs left (threaded part of the plug just slid right off and left plug in the head). I'll have to use a long needle nose to break those plugs and then the Lisle tool will take care of getting out what's left.

One question: Does anyone know how to vacuum out the cylinder? Or will compressed air blasted in through a small tube really get any porcelain out through the plug holes?

I would imagine you can get away with using an air compressor and spraying it, you could use a narrow vacuum attachment to ensure its clean. Also... if you have a paintball gun running on N2, you can use that. i've used it with extra compressed air parts I have (valve and hose) to clean stuff in place of a compressor.

My performance mods will end with a lot of bolt-ons and I agree I will be all smiles. I am hoping that between the cams, full exhaust, and a tuned intake I can hit 400 crank. Heads make me hope to get to 400 wheel... big increase I know but there is the possibility of a new plenum, deleting the CMP to free up what ever few ponies I can get. Don't see too many full bolt on Mustangs around... Most people go easy way and get a super charger.

I've driven a GT that just had the hotrod cams and muffler deletes and it was one of the most fun driving experiences I've had. Those cams really wake up the mid-range and make power all the way to redline (6,800 rpms on stock internals) and are so responsive. I loved it!

This effects all 05-07 and some 08's. The coil boots are black on cars with these plugs. The 08s with the newer one piece plugs have brown coil boots. Most 08s have the newer style and 09 and above are not affected.

I think the TSB was really just a "feel good" that Ford put out. Looking at how much carbon was on the plugs and how hard it was caked (we're talking chunks are still down in the plug hole) I think that the plugs seperated as soon as I had to give them a slight turn to break them loose. Others across the Mustang forums feel the same since the carb cleaner hadn't had the chance to make it down there yet. I run a 93 tune and don't baby the car and still my pistons are absolutely caked with carbon. I'm a believer that injector cleaning is snake oil, but now considering running that or some Sea Foam through the engine.

This effects all 05-07 and some 08's. The coil boots are black on cars with these plugs. The 08s with the newer one piece plugs have brown coil boots. Most 08s have the newer style and 09 and above are not affected.

I think the TSB was really just a "feel good" that Ford put out. Looking at how much carbon was on the plugs and how hard it was caked (we're talking chunks are still down in the plug hole) I think that the plugs seperated as soon as I had to give them a slight turn to break them loose. Others across the Mustang forums feel the same since the carb cleaner hadn't had the chance to make it down there yet. I run a 93 tune and don't baby the car and still my pistons are absolutely caked with carbon. I'm a believer that injector cleaning is snake oil, but now considering running that or some Sea Foam through the engine.

Run good, high detergent, gasoline in the car. It's the reason I use only Shell or Sunoco fuels

Ugh, after having my car sit for 3 days now all I can say is F you Ford. If I didn't hate GM for using even more idiot design flaws in their cars, I'd trade it in for a Camaro just to spite Ford for this issue.

Wish Natasha the Service Rep that floats around here would read this and say, "Oh well because you're such a Mustang lover and a devoted Ford customer, we'll pay for the tools you had to buy AND purchase you a new set of one piece Champions because Ford was a bunch of a-holes and used a well known design flaw in the 4.6 heads." Natasha, if you read this you can PM me for my mailing address so Ford can send me a check.

Yeah right...No wonder Ford survived the downturn so well...4.6 owners had to pay for this ****.

UPDATE:
The Lisle tool was worth every cent. Took me 1 hour to get all 5 out. Used plenty of never seize on the tools for every step to keep fragments and metal shavings stuck to the tool heads. Made sure to vacuum out the plug holes with some 1/4" tubing after every step. Also put anti sieze on the plugs.

The electrodes look beat up because it had to lay them flat on the table and flatten the tips with a hammer to break them loose from the tool. Other than that, the porcelain never broke through the tips and stayed together.

Startup was smokey but after it burned off, it runs smooth as butter.

A few notes from using this tool:
1. Use plenty of never seize on the tool tips during every step to keep porcelain fragments and metal shavings in check and to keep the threads sharp (I had zero dulling after 5 plugs with this method).
2. 1/4" plastic tubing attached to a shop vac should be used after every step because it's easier to keep any fragments and shavings in check. Better than using compressed air and risk blowing anything down the holes into the cylinder.
3. Take your time and follow the directions. The porcelain will not break through the electrode tip and the tip will not break the porcelain so don't worry; crank it down until you feel plenty of resistance.
4. Press down firmly when threading the extractor into the electrode and stop when you feel plenty of resistance.
5. The electrode tips will be hard to remove from the extractor tool after you get them out. Place the tip on a flat surface and give it a few good hits with a hammer (the very tip) and it will twist right off the extractor tool.

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