Endive endeavors

The delicate green is often classed as gourmet fare, but a few simple recipes can bring it into the mainstream.

By
John Edward Young, Correspondent /
March 28, 2011

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Plymouth, Mass.

Belgian endive is that smooth, pale, delicate leafy green in the rather audacious chicory family. A demure Natalie Portman in a family of Lady Gagas. Its members consist of a colorful group of vegetables that include the garish scarlet radicchio with its ivory-white veins and the mop-headed frisée, or curly endive, and its peppery distant cousin, watercress.

A recent dinner guest from France wondered why Americans don't eat much Belgian endive. "In Europe, we have it all the time," he said, while finishing an endive, pear, and walnut salad dressed with Roquefort cheese. "Of course, it's inexpensive there."

Then there's the somewhat bitter taste that may not appeal to those palates raised on a salad featuring bland iceberg lettuce.

The birth of Belgian endive began over a hundred years ago quite by accident when farmers grew witloof chicory for its roots, which were dried and ground as a coffee substitute. A group of overlooked roots began growing long white spear heads. The crop was harvested, and became greatly prized among gourmets.

All the tight-headed chicories, including radicchio, are wonderful grilled over a charcoal fire. Simply cut them in half, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grilling tends to caramelize the sugars, as well as giving them a flavorful smokiness.

Belgian endive comes in two hues – white and the less common red. Look for tight, firm heads with pale yellow-green or pink tips. Since they are highly perishable, and become bitter when stored, they should be consumed quickly.

Place endives in a pot of boiling water; turn down heat and simmer 3 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon and pat dry on paper towels.

Butter a shallow 9-by-12-inch baking dish.

Slice endives in half lengthwise. Wrap each half with a slice of prosciutto. Lay endives in baking dish in a single layer; add cream, sprinkle with pepper and nutmeg; top with cheese, then bread crumbs; dot topping with small pieces of butter.

Bake for 15 minutes or until tender.

GRAPEFRUIT AND ENDIVE SALAD WITH RASPBERRY VINAIGRETTE

SERVES 4

Like most salads this one is open to interpretation. Mango, orange, and pear also work well.

4 small Belgian endives

2 pink grapefruit

1 ripe avocado

1/2 cup pecans or walnut halves

Raspberry vinaigrette (see recipe)

Trim bottom of endive and slice in half-inch pieces. Separate pieces into circles and place in salad bowl.