Wednesday, 31 August 2011

There hasn't been much to report climbing just recently, I've had a few weekends doing other stuff, like a mountain biking in Scotland and Surfing trying to surf in Newquay. When a trip to font for the bank holiday weekend landed in my inbox I jumped at the chance to renew the psyche that has been lacking in my climbing recently.

Thursday evening after work I packed up the car with a tent, roll mat, sleeping bag, BBQ, Solutions and chalk bucket and set out for a long weekend in Font with Danny, Si and Charlie.

We drove through the night and arrived at the campsite of Les Pres in the early hours of Friday morning and pitched in the dark just before a spectacular thunder storm. It rained all though the night and for most of the morning so our first days climbing was a right off. Not the best start to a trip on tight time scale.

Saturday we headed to La Canche aux Merciers and worked through the excellent blue circuit, picking off the exciting looking reds on route. While there I managed a send of the classic Le Nez F6c, a small powerful roof climb with a mantle top out and a left hand extension start for F7a. It’s a good start to the trip, psyche was indeed back.

That evening back at the campsite we set the trend of BBQ and Beer around the camp fire.

Kings Eye Brow - Essential Supplies for Camping

Sunday morning, after a good hot shower to wake up those bleary eyes from the one to many cheap French beers, we set off to Buthiers, stopping at the patisserie in Nemours to pickup "un quiche lorraine si vous plait" when the lady spoke back to me in some foreign language (presumably french) I responded with the usual blank stare, she got the idea and bagged it up for me. Excellent.

When we arrived at Buthiers we despatched problems on the blue and red circuits, by mid afternoon I had spotted another roof I was keen to have a go on. Magic Bus. F7b/+ depending on which guide I looked in.
Me and Joe both wanted to send it so we split from the others and set to work. This horizontal knacky roof succumbed to some serious body tension, heel hooking and a huge cut lose to finish. The hardest problem I’ve done in Font to date.

Trying Hard on Magic Bus

A Slab at Buthiers

With the ferry booked for 6pm on Monday we just had time to sneak in a quick morning session at Le Petit Bois again on some red / blue circuits. I did have a go on The Whale F7a but I didn't manage it.

The trip has renewed my psyche for climbing again and with the final round of the Depot Summer Bouldering league underway I'll need it if I'm to keep my current 4th Position.