Thursday, February 18, 2010

The sign outside hasn’t changed but apparently Stringer’s has been prefixed to the longstanding Lufkin BBQ. By the slightly out of whack arrangement of sidewalks and streets surrounding the restaurant, you can guess that it predates the surrounding strip centers. I stopped in on my way out of town to have a quick sample. A strong smokey smell met me at the parking lot and raised my hopes. Things were pretty slow late in the afternoon but the service was quick and friendly once I found my way to the correct side of the long and slightly ramshackle dining room. There was a detailed history on the back of the menu that started in the 1950s but I was off my game and didn’t take any notes before I handed it back to my server. As this was to be a “light” meal, I ordered a sliced beef sandwich and a couple ribs. Before those arrived, I got a basket of their rolls. These turned out to be the highlight of the visit. They are deep fried yeast rolls that have a crispy crust, slightly sweet flavor and perfectly tender inside. They don’t move the needle on the barbecue meter, but they made the stop well worth it. The sandwich came with a light treatment of a sweet and tangy sauce that complemented the beef well. Those slices of brisket were nicely cooked but lacked the smoke that hit me on the way in. There was a decent crust, but it didn’t have a distinct texture. The ribs had a very similar character. My trip was probably not timed for the best as both meats seemed like they had spent a little too much time wrapped and waiting. Coleslaw and potato salad were unremarkable.

Their brisket may have been bad... normally is but their chip beef and chicken and baked potatos are to die for ... maybe you should give them another shot. oh yeah there is a diner here called ray's you should try out their food... its good too.

Rays is a little older than Lufkin Bar B Q but no joke they have both been around a long time (60+ years). I tend to like the end cuts of the brisket myself. But I’m partial BBQ because I’m in the family. Thanks For being honest and not trying to slam anyone.

The fried rolls began in the 1960's when a bakery was next door. They bought the donut hole dough for next to nothing and fried them up for bread. I admit that I love this place since some of my earliest memories are going with my father on Saturday for lunch when I was a very small child in the early sixties.

The barbeque is more of a southern style and only hickory is used for smoke. The beans are an acquired taste which my South Texas raised husband hates but my now adult children love. If you go back you do need to try the fried pies if they have not run out especially the peach.

To me the barbeque is more similar to those I have eaten in Alabama and Georgia so I can see where Texas barbeque connoisseurs might not like it as much as the great central Texas barbecue meccas which I love too.

Our Austin based daughter is marrying this summer and her only choice for the wedding dinner was Lufkin Barbeque. Tradition rules.

DISCLAIMER:

Each joint is judged on the essence of Texas 'cue...sliced brisket and pork ribs. Sausage is only considered if house made. Sauce is good, but good meat needs no adornment to satisfy. Each review can only be based on specific cuts of meat on that particular day. Finally, if the place fries up catfish or serves a caesar salad, then chances are they aren't paying enough attention to the pits, so we mostly steered clear.

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GLOSSARY

Crust - Layer of black goodness around the edges of brisket or ribs that holds excellent flavor.

Meat Caramel - After gratuitous amounts of smoke are applied, and liquid rendered fat has come to the surface of the meat to mix with the applied rub, a chemical rendering takes place that creates a sweet sticky layer on the surface of the meat that clings to the tip of your finger when pulled away from the meat. This is affectionately known as meat snot.

Parboiled - A process in which ribs are boiled before being grilled or smoked. This is what makes meat fall off the bone, and it also leaves good, flavorful fat in the water. It's cheating.Rendered - The process of cooking fat until it literally melts into the meat. Cook it too fast and the fat is absent from the meat creating dryness. If it's not cooked long enough, the fat remains gelatinous and unsavory. There's no need to put well rendered fat aside.Roast-Beefy - Brisket that hasn't been bathed in smoke, but rather tastes as if it was thrown in an oven like any hunk of roast beef. It might be good food, but it's not BBQ.Sauced - Unsolicited BBQ sauce slathered over top of your meat, usually to add what was non-existent flavor in the meat.Smoke Line - Red line around the outside edge of sliced brisket just below the crust that signifies an adequate amount of time in the smoker.Sugar Cookie - Fat that turns to a slightly sweet and crispy flavorful nugget after copius amounts of smoke are applied.