It has done this 3 times in the last 6 months. I would take it apart, check connections, find nothing wrong, try it again and it would work!! This time, no LUCK..

Here's what I've come up with so far. The pump is not plugged. It spins freely. I checked for voltage at the pump and had nothing. I then unplugged the connector at the pump and discovered that I had 10 Volts with the washer Just Plugged In. I then put it into the Spin and Drain Cycle and the voltage at the connector went up to 25 Volts. At this point, I plugged the connector back into the pump and the voltage dropped to 0 Volts again (Which I would have expected, some draw on the line, but not enough supply or current to keep the Voltage up, even though 25 Volts isn't going to cut it anyways). I then traced the wiring diagram to see what else ran off the Pumps supply line and found that the neutral line also supplied the Water Valve and that nothing else ran off the Live Side, which went directly to the Timer. Just for the heck of it, I unplugged the Water Valve ( the neutral was jumped there so I still had my neutral for the Pump) and tried it again... Still no voltage at the Pump, unless I unplug the Pump connector. Now the STRANGE thing. At this point, I unplugged the Timer Connector and discovered that I still had voltage at the unplugged Pump Connector!! Wow, where to heck is that coming from?? At this point I feel as if I'm missing something here ( A few brain cells I guess )

Summary: Let's say the Pump Motor is bad. Why don't I have 120 Volts to run the Good or Bad Motor?? This is why I suspect the Timer. This is where I hit a brick wall!! At this point, I wanted to pull the Timer out and give it a good bath with Contact Cleaner, but I can't figure out how to remove the Timer.. HELP!!

First, get us the complete model# -- not the number off your book or anyother papers you have. Look on the machine and give the # that is on the Model/Serial# tag. (You're missing a letter and a number at the end of what you gave)

It's going to be one of two problems, bad lid switch/lock unit or timer.

Timer is very easy to remove, push knob in/off and turn counter clockwise - knob screws off. You will then find the two screws holding the timer to the front panel under the dial skirt which should just pull off after knob is unscrewed.

After you get the timer out you should be able to remove the protective plastic cover easily and look at all the points. I'm sure your going to find the points burnt at the contacts where the red wire with white strip (The pump line voltage) goes into the timer.

I'm pretty sure your lid switch/lock is ok since from what you posted, it sounds like the machine is spining just not draining. If the lid switch/lock was bad you wouldn't have spin.

If you find the points are burnt you can try to clean them up to test and verify this is your problem or you can order a timer from RepairClinc and if it doesn't take care of your problem you can return it. Give a complete model# and I can direct you to the correct part.

Believe it or not Wizard, RepairClinc will take back any part even electrical after you install it and find out it isn't the problem. (This is an unheard of policy - at least I've never heard of it before. Most places won't take back electrical parts unless they haven't even been opened.)

I don't know from personal experience, I only use RepairClinc when their price is lower than my supplier (Marcone) or if my supplier doesn't have the part and I need it quick.

Samurai, Is this by anychance just for people who order thru your link or is this a general RepairClinic policy?

Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Samurai, Is this by anychance just for people who order thru your link or is this a general RepairClinic policy?

It's one of the reasons I agreed to affiliate with them. As you know, about 80% of appliance repairs can be done by the average consumer IF they know which part is bad and have a little information on how to open the appliance. Try as I might to explain good troubleshooting procedure, how make electrical measurements, etc., many people are just not technically oriented but are otherwise perfectly capable of replacing a part. This leaves lots of room for error when people are buying parts. I wanted them to be able to buy the part with he confidence that, if they were wrong, they can return it.

So, This was a special concession they gave to you only when you affiliated with them? Or this policy they have is why you choose to affiliate with them?

Not really trying to pry into your personal business, just courious because, I've never in my life heard of any company taking returns on electrical parts after they are opened. (The reason of coarse being no telling what an uneducated consumer could do when installing or working on something they know nothing about.)