Neck deep in repairing harness after an alternator conversion and several accessories circuits. These im combining to a aftermarket fuse block.
But and its a big butt...the alternator puts out better than 14 volts at the post but by the time it hits the oe fuses it drops a quarter volt at each consecutive fuse. Then by the time it gets to voltmeter, its only throwing 11 or less volts..
So the regulator gang plug had caught fire in a previous life, so i cut both sides of the burned plug and yank out regulator. But what about the funny box in the middle? Open it up and it looks like 3 capacitors and a couple coils. Do we still need this?
My head is dizzy with connect a relay to this, but not that oh and dont forget to fuse the watchawigget for 30killa amps.
You guys are super informative, but almost to a fault.. The pictures help, but im begging here...
Can someone just post a simple schematic? Please? One that shows the bare essentials after the conversion?
The 4 wires at the starter solenoid...what can be released from service?
Alternator output to junction deep in the harness...does it need a relay?
The black w/green trace in the middle of those burnt gang plugs....can it go to my new fuse block? Is it fuel pump relay switched power?
There was a time when i could hobble my way around a harness but for whatever reason...This Limited Edition has got my number...

It seems like ive got a voltage draw across the board. I put a relay in front of the new fuse block assuming im supposed to connect it to the batt side, and the draw goes away. The power side is from the alternator im hoping. Ive got good 14 plus volts at the alternator at idle but voltmeter at dash is still low...11.5. Im still searching for a key switched power source. The old one was the white wire runs from gang plug into trip computer and i understand thats not a good place to be.. .
Thanks for all the advice and help...I need a break before i lose whats left of my marbles.

Well, Im calling "no joy". Removed all offending wiring, installed new powered bus bar, wired as i had hoped to be more efficient. But ive went backwards. No crank, no digital readout, larger mv draw. Im at wits end with this one. I should have known better. Who wants it?

I replaced my stock reg/rectifier with a newer one and left off the reg/rectifier plug and connected the output from the reg/rect directly to the battery plus and minus posts. It's been running fine for at least 6 months.

I think that you can connect directly from the alternator post to the positive post of the battery. Be sure that the alternator is well grounded and check the negative battery post at the ground (I think it is behind the battery).