One way to diagnose a loose, or warn ball joint, is to jack the car up, so the wheel is off of the ground, then have someone try to move the wheel in and out. While they are moving the wheel check the ball joint for play, if it is moving you probably need to replace it.

Remember whenever you are replacing any front end or steering components you should have your vehicle professionally aligned as soon as possible. This will ensure proper tracking and even tire wear.

Lifetime Warranty

This item is backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will exchange the part free of charge (excludes shipping charges) for the original purchaser. Please keep your invoice for proof of this warranty.

Disconnecting the Strut (1:02)

Pull the wire off the 18mm nut on top of the strut

Remove the three 18mm nuts that hold the top of the strut

Removing the Wheel (1:44)

Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver

Loosen the 22mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack

Secure the vehicle on jack stands

Remove the lug nuts

Pull off the wheel

Removing the Stabilizer Link (2:02)

Turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel

Apply penetrating oil to the top of the stabilizer link

Use a wrench on top and a socket underneath to remove the stabilizer link

Push down on the suspension and remove the stabilizer link

Removing the Strut (2:39)

Remove two 15mm bolts from the bottom of the strut

Push down on the suspension, pull the strut down, and then pull it up and out

Removing the Control Arm (3:28)

Apply penetrating oil to the control arm bolts

Use a marker to mark the control arm washer tabs for future reference

Loosen the 18mm nut that holds the ball joint to the steering knuckle

Pry on the steering knuckle with a pry bar and hit it with a hammer until it pops apart

Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the wiring harness clip to the control arm

Support the suspension with a jack

Remove the 21mm nuts from the control arm using a ratchet and a pipe for leverage

Drive the bolts out with a hammer, and a punch if necessary

Remove the nut from the ball joint

Pull out the control arm with a pry bar

Installing the New Control Arm (6:08)

Install the grease-able fitting on to the new ball joint

Put the control arm into place and line it up

Start the bolts that hold the control arm to the frame by hand

Tap the bolts in with a hammer

Start the 21mm nuts by hand

With a wrench on each side of the bolt, realign the bolt mark with the tab mark

Preliminarily tighten the nuts

Lower the suspension using the jack

Thread the ball joint into the steering knuckle

Jack the suspension back up

Start the ball joint nut by hand

Tighten the ball joint nut

Tighten the control arm nuts to 100 foot-pounds of torque, making sure the marks still line up

Lower the suspension using the jack

Reinstall the 10mm bolt that holds the wiring harness clip

Use a grease gun to add grease to the ball joint until the boot begins to expand

Reinstalling the Strut (9:29)

Reinsert the strut, with the coil spring's end on the outside

Lift the strut into place

Start threading the top strut nuts by hand

Insert the lower strut bolts

Tighten the lower strut bolts to between 70-75 foot-pounds

Reinstalling the Stabilizer Link (10:28)

Lift the sway bar with a pry bar

Put the stabilizer link into place

Put the bolt through the stabilizer link

Tighten the stabilizer link bolt

Reattaching the Wheel (10:43)

Slide the wheel into place

Start the lug nuts by hand

Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily

Lower the vehicle to the ground

Tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern

Reattach the center cap

Reconnecting the Strut (11:09)

Tighten the nuts on top of the strut to between 75-80 foot-pounds of torque