How to Make a Freestanding Wall From Paneling

Select a style and tone of paneling that complements your decor.

A paneled freestanding wall consists of a lightweight wood frame and wood or vinyl paneling on one or both sides. A detachable wood base allows the wall to be moved with relative ease. Typical freestanding walls are the same height as a window or door opening. The type of paneling and the length of the wall from end to end are matters of personal preference. In most cases, the best place to build the wall is on a patio, a deck or on a drop cloth in a garage.

Build the Frame

1

Determine the length of the freestanding wall from end to end. Don safety glasses. Cut two pieces of two-by-two pine or spruce as the top and bottom plates of the wall, using a handsaw.

2

Place the plates side by side on edge and even the ends. Mark the edges of each for studs that you'll install every 16 inches from end to end. If the wall is wider than a single sheet of wood or vinyl paneling, mark the location for a stud where the edges of two sheets butt together.

3

Determine the height of the wall and deduct the thickness of both plates. Count the number of stud marks and cut the same number of two-by-two studs. Remove burrs at the cuts ends of all pieces, using 80-grit sandpaper.

4

Set up a cordless or electric drill with a 1/16-inch drill bit. Position the top and bottom plates flat with the wide sides facing up. Drill a pair of pilot holes for screws in the face of each at each of the stud marks.

5

Install a screw-tip attachment in the drill. Position one of the plates on edge with the stud marks facing up. Apply wood glue on one end of a stud. Position the stud on edge and perpendicular to the plate. Align one face of the stud at one end of the plate and fit the glued end at the plate. Attach the plate to the stud with 2½-inch deck screws at each of the drilled pilot holes. Repeat this at the remaining marks on the plate and include a stud at the opposite end of the plate.

6

Apply wood glue at the other end of each stud. Position the remaining plate on edge and against the ends of the studs, and align the studs at the marks. Drive a pair of screws through the plate at each pilot hole.

Install the Paneling

1

Designate one of the plates as the top plate of the wall. Place a sheet of paneling face up on the frame with the vertical pattern running the same direction as the studs. Align one edge at one end of the frame and one edge at the outer end of the top plate.

2

Attach the paneling to the frame with 4d finish nails at 12-inch intervals in the plates and studs. Position another piece of two-by-two flat across the paneling as a straightedge. Align one edge with the outer end of the bottom plate. Using the two-by-two straightedge as a guide, cut off the excess paneling, using a utility knife.

3

Place another sheet of paneling on the frame with one edge butted against the edge of the installed piece. Align one end at the top plate as before. Attach the piece as before and cut off the excess, using the straightedge and the knife. Cut off any excess at the outer edge of the sheet in the same way.

4

Turn the wall over. Install sheets of paneling at the other side of the frame.

Create the Base

1

Cut three pieces of one-by-six pine or spruce 16 inches long. Remove burrs at the cut ends of each piece, using sandpaper.

2

Place one of the pieces flat and mark the center from end to end. Measure the thickness of the assembled wall. Using a builder's square, mark the edges of a vertical channel that's 1/4 inch wider than the thickness of the wall at the center of the piece. Make another mark for the bottom of the channel, 2½ inches from one edge of the piece.

3

Cut both vertical marks with the handsaw. Remove the cutout of the channel at the 2½-inch mark, using a wood chisel and the hammer. Repeat the procedure to make the channel cutouts at the centers of the other two pieces of the base. Remove burrs at the cut edges of each channel.

4

Refer to the side of the wall from end to end and deduct 12 inches. Cut two pieces of one-by-six this length. They'll serve as face frames for the base. Mark the center of each from end to end.

5

Apply wood glue onto the ends of each piece of the base. Position the face frames on edge and parallel. Fit the pieces of the base between the face frames with the channels facing up.

6

Align the bases at each end of the frames and align the center base at the center marks on the face frames. Attach the frames at the ends of each base with a pair of deck screws.

7

Allow the wood glue at the base assembly to dry overnight. Position the assembly at the location of the freestanding wall and fit the bottom of the wall into the channels.

Things You Will Need

Measuring tape

Two-by-two pine or spruce

Safety glasses

Handsaw

Wood or vinyl paneling

80-grit sandpaper

Cordless or electric drill

1/16-inch drill bit

Wood glue

Screw-tip attachment

2½-inch deck screws

Chalk line

Utility knife

4d finish nails

Hammer

One-by-six pine or spruce

Builder's square

Wood chisel

Tip

Trim the edges of the wall with 3/4-inch-by-3/4-inch wood or vinyl corner molding. Miter the ends of the pieces at corners, similar to a picture frame. Attach the molding with the same nails used for the paneling.

Before attaching the paneling, seal and paint the outer faces of the framework to match the color of the paneling. Alternatively, cover the outer faces with paneling.

Stain or paint the base assembly to the desired finish or color.

Make a designer base using a jigsaw to cut scrolled patterns or round edges.

About the Author

William Machin began work in construction at the age of 15, while still in high school. In 35 years, he's gained expertise in all phases of residential construction, retrofit and remodeling. His hobbies include horses, motorcycles, road racing and sport fishing. He studied architecture at Taft Junior College.