Bit of an update. New derailleur arm, replaced the shifter cable and hanger. Bought a suspension pump and adjusted the sag properly. All good. Frey are helping with the cost.

Bike rides very well. Lots of torque in low gear up very steep hills and plenty of speed on the flat. Had a little bit of surging on the flat when in one of the higher pas levels and a gear that was too low. Basically the motor would quickly spin up and then cut off at it's rpm limit, slow down then repeat. It sounds worse than it felt. It was quite minor and shifting up a gear or down in PAS level stopped it.

As for the lighting situation, it's going to be a bit more complicated than I expected. There is no room to pull the anderson power connectors out once the cover plate over the motor is removed from the frame. Looks like I am going to have to drop the motor out to get at the power cables. The motor to frame bolts are extremely tight and blue loctited. Going to need the heat gun and 1/2" socket drive set from work. I only have a 1/4 drive set here and that ain't going to cut it.

The lighting connection wires at the handlebar had no power when enabled by the display. I found the cable, jammed in above the motor, was disconnected. Plugged it in and as I suspected very little power is available (less than 100mA @ 6V). So I'm going to use this signal to switch the full battery voltage for my light. Just means finding an appropriate MOSFET (PSMN017-80PS looks like it will do the job). But getting the motor off is the first challenge. To be continued...

The mini DC-DC converter for my tail light has arrived (LM2596HVS from ebay - make sure it's the high voltage variant). A bit of nerve-racking Dremmelling and removal of the potentiometer (replaced with a fixed value resistor) and it all fits.

There is no room to pull the anderson power connectors out once the cover plate over the motor is removed from the frame. Looks like I am going to have to drop the motor out to get at the power cables. The motor to frame bolts are extremely tight and blue loctited. Going to need the heat gun and 1/2" socket drive set from work. I only have a 1/4 drive set here and that ain't going to cut it.

They are just torqued quite hard, but not that much loctite'd.
I used a 40cm (16in) 1/2" ratchet and got them unscrewed really easy. However, be warned that once the nuts are unscrewed, you still need to punch at the bolts real hard to push them out. Plus, with the heat gun you risk cooking / melting the motor's seals..

The lighting connection wires at the handlebar had no power when enabled by the display. I found the cable, jammed in above the motor, was disconnected. Plugged it in and as I suspected very little power is available (less than 100mA @ 6V).

What I suppose the black one does is connection to compatible BMS over UART or CAN. The motor would forward the BMS data to the display in order to populate the detailed battery info page (on dpc18 at least)

If someone here knows the answer regarding the black connector, that'd be great !

It could have been entering some sort of protection mode because my light draws more than 500mA @6V. It's rated at 5.5W peak, so it was trying to pull nearly an amp.

Thanks for the warning about the motor seal. The heat gun I was talking about is for de-soldering SMT components so using a small nozzle I should be able to direct the heat exactly on the mounting nut. I wont go overboard, just enough to soften the loctite.

As for Light You could order this one from Aliexpress or Amazon.
[]...
It can be control by the Controller Display to on off the light.

Is there a lights connector with permanent power, since the new EU regulation 168/2013 (type approval ) requires permanent light? And, is there a way to connect/implement "a brake light that lights up as soon as you start braking”?

Is there a lights connector with permanent power, since the new EU regulation 168/2013 (type approval ) requires permanent light? And, is there a way to connect/implement "a brake light that lights up as soon as you start braking”?
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I messed up and managed to get oil on my rear disk and pads. Not being particularly knowledgable about MB's and their components, I didn't think it was too much of a big deal, that is until I started to read up about it on the web.

So it looks like I'll need to change my pads. Trouble is, I've never changed disk brake pads before and I've not been successful finding a how to video on the Magura MT5 brakes to help me out.

Can anyone offer any help / advice? A step by step would be really nice, or if anyone knows of a YouTube video for changing pads on the MT5, which incidentally is different to the MT7, can you post the link.

Sorry for being such a dumb-ass re bike maintenance

Last edited by DaninSpain on Jun 06 2018 7:59am, edited 1 time in total.

Is there a lights connector with permanent power, since the new EU regulation 168/2013 (type approval ) requires permanent light? And, is there a way to connect/implement "a brake light that lights up as soon as you start braking”?
[/quote]

Anybody else had problems with the battery connectors? Really annoying when you get going and voltage drops under 40,gently slap on side of the battery and voltage goes back to 50. I've already changed both the connectors once and really don't want to do that again. Never had this problem with good old xt60's in BBSHD, this just drives me crazy.

Any good ideas how to keep the battery in place, rarely remove the battery so more difficult approach don't matter to me.

Can anyone offer any help / advice? A step by step would be really nice, or if anyone knows of a YouTube video for changing pads on the MT5, which incidentally is different to the MT7, can you post the link.

Sorry for being such a dumb-ass re bike maintenance

It's not rocket science luckily so even i manage to do it
Take the wheel off. Take a look at the calibers, press them full open so maximum space is available. The pads are connected by magnets so just press first one side and slide the pad down. Then another one with same method. I also tried to find video about it but couldn't find so had to just try. But it's really easy and quick job.

Can anyone offer any help / advice? A step by step would be really nice, or if anyone knows of a YouTube video for changing pads on the MT5, which incidentally is different to the MT7, can you post the link.

Sorry for being such a dumb-ass re bike maintenance

It's not rocket science luckily so even i manage to do it
Take the wheel off. Take a look at the calibers, press them full open so maximum space is available. The pads are connected by magnets so just press first one side and slide the pad down. Then another one with same method. I also tried to find video about it but couldn't find so had to just try. But it's really easy and quick job.

Thanks NataS
As it happens, I did exactly that earlier today and worked it out as I went along.
I removed the pads, cleaned with degreaser heated the up with a blowtorch to burn off the oil, then sanded them down repeated the whole thing. Took off the disk, soaked it petrol and gave it a good old scrub then refitted everything, looked down and found a washer
I couldn't work out from which side it came so I tried both and decided on the disk side.
The brakes were binding a bit, so I loosened the whole brake unit, applied the brake then tightened it. Hey presto no more binding (I'm sure all the experienced bikers are pissing themselves laughing at the newbie )
Tried it out and all back to normal.
It's actually not as complicated as I thought this bike maintenance

The connectors used by Reention do look cheap. Overall the battery retaining system is not great. Still a step up from bottle rivnut ones but far from bosch/yam/... models. Anyways most of China-designed e-bike battery cases are meh...

You mention replacing the connectors, can I ask where did you get the spares ones ? Frey or you found the matching OEM P/N ?

For what it's worth I should mention the male connector on my frame had it's locknut loose from the factory and was able to rotate. It's not supposed to be able to as there is a retaining tab on the plastic holder below. Tightening the locknut and applying a drop of loctite fixed that. Battery side should be examined too to be safe.

I will also switch the andersons on the motor pigtail in favor of XT90