Matt Walton from the AZ Game and Fish Dept. advised me that extended access to Mendoza Canyon will be allowed to hikers and climbers through a pilot project again this year. The normal closure begins March 1st and runs until September 1st. From March 1st thru April 30th you can contact Matt at 520-400-4022 or at mwalton@azgfd.gov to apply for access. You must have a valid AZ State Land Permit and apply with Matt 10 days to 2 weeks in advance.

You will then be given the combination to the gates on King's Anvil Ranch that lead to Mendoza Canyon. These combinations will be changed every week or 2. Consecutive days of access may be allowed, but overnight camping will not be allowed.

Matt asks that we NOT approach the ranchers about access during this period. All questions should be directed to Matt.

Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10):We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.

Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Lock and Load is a great adventure route that climbs the longest aspect of the Bullet. The first 5 or 6 pitches are excellent; the last few pitches are not as good, but worth doing to attain an awesome summit that few visit. This route is 3 stars on a "Southern Arizona Backcountry" scale, rather than a "Sierra Nevada" scale.

Jeff Mayhew and Chuck Lipinski first tried the route in 1986, completing the first 3 pitches but using aid on the intricate 3rd pitch. Jeff came back with Jason Worrell in 2001 to free the moves and finish the route, climbing the last 4 pitches in darkness and howling wind! The route has probably seen about 5 ascents as of this posting. Although rated 11a, it isn't sustained and most of the climbing is easier than 5.10.

4. Up rotten chimney to long, easy ramp. About 30’ before a large tree turn bulge at chickenheads and short crack, then diagonal right to a bolt. Up and right then belay at chickenheaded roof. (5.10 120’) [note: I (CV) found this pitch to be much higher quality than the description makes it sound]

5. Diagonal right and “jungle gym” onto ledge at huge chickenheads. Up and right to short crack, then up and right again to an off-width/chimney. Belay a little higher. (5.8 120’)

6. Continue up, exiting right then up to a bolt. Tricky move up and then left to a nice ledge with a tree. (This bolt was Jason’s first lead bolt… and was drilled in the dark. It’s easier for the follower to step left 10-20’ at the bolt then make the move, but not as good a position for the leader. We might move this someday.) (5.9 to 5.10 70’)

7. Up easy off-width then continue to huge ledge with trees and boulders. (5.6 80’)

Location

Starts on the downhill (north) side of the Bullet at a can't-miss-it, splitter 70 foot hand crack. When you hit the rock from the approach drainage, you will need to go a bit left to find the crack. If you're not sinking your hands into a perfect splitter on the first pitch, you're on the wrong route.

The best descent uses rappel stations on Continental Drift, a route up the east/NE face that ascends a large, obvious formation know as the "pill" (see photo below). Find the first anchor below an obvious tree on down to the east/NE from the summit: 1. Rap 165’ to 2 bolts on a small ledge. You’ll probably have to lean in to clip the anchors. (You might want to tie safety knots in the ends on this one.) Don’t let go of rope ends before threading the anchor!! 2. Rap 160’ to 2 bolts next to the “pill”. 3. Rap 190’ to the ground.

There is also a longer descent down the route to the right of Lock and Load (see topo), which is not recommended but would be useful if you had to bail:

[1] Sling on tree on NW side of summit to large tree ledge 80’ below. (top of Lock & Load p. 7) [2] Sling on large ledge to sling on tree at top of pitch 5. (top of L & L p. 6) [3] Down and (climber’s) right to 2 bolt rap station (not used on climb up.) [4] Directly down face, over cave to a tree. [5] From tree down and right to 2 bolts at huge corner at top of pitch 2 of Lichen to Live [6] From top of pitch 2 to top of pitch 1. (small ledge with bolts) [7] Down to ground!!

Protection

We brought a set of nuts, including micros, a single set of C3s, and C4s from .3 to 4. The 4 was not necessary but came in handy in several places. This rack was just about perfect although I might bring an additional .75 camalot next time. Lots of long slings are essential, for wandering pitches and the occasional chickenhead.

I heartily echo Charles' words of praise for this unique route; namely for the incredible splitter on pitch numero uno. My day was already fulfilled after that S'AZ anomaly (where else can we boast of a 70' perfect hand crack?) and I honestly wasn't expecting much else. Amazingly, good climbing continued: varied and engaging through the 4th pitch. To cap the day, the summit provides a spectacular panorama of Mendoza, replete with possibilities...