The hunger for the Polish food of childhood is unending, and so is the quest for it in Chicago

Occasionally, I’m asked to recommend a good Polish restaurant in Chicago. Sorry, but I can’t. It’s not that Chicago doesn’t have good Polish restaurants. It does, because people tell me all the time about the succulent kapusta-filled pierogi they had at this place, or the wonderfully spiced kielbasa they devoured at another.Good for you, I tell them. I’m glad you liked it.The odds are, however, I wouldn’t have liked it. I have inflexible standards when it comes to Polish food. I compare all ...

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