TNRabbit wrote:45 hz doesn't seem like a very low bottom end for a speaker of that SIZE (They're huge if you've never seen them). Perhaps that driver isn't suitable for your application after all...? Can't imagine the old driver wasn't better. The KLF-30s are supposedly flat to lower than 30 hz I thought....?

Well, I've been listening for a few days now and I'm certain that these new woofers are going lower.... or they are transferring that energy to the room? I mentioned that they were not as "punchy", but they are... just different! As before they hit you in the chest and now they hit me in my legs? Maybe paper cones vs graphite cones?

In this particular room I had a problem with a low frequency drone... this is no longer as apparent. I pulled the ports (leaving a much larger hole) as I was curious to the effect, I felt that that freed the cones up, but there was to much air turbulence... so I'm thinking that some port tuning may produce some better results.

I'm also running the M-1.0t MKII .002 amp now as it has more power, but typically not as snappy as the TFM-35x.... I'm going to re-configure my rack so I can switch amps back and forth easier.

I got the Crites midrange diaphragms in the mail today.... so maybe this weekend I'll have them in.

So far I feel that I'm on to something with the woofers, just wish I had done more research for a better fit. If I can find another set that I think could do the job better at a reasonable cost, I may give it another shot. Either way I'm feeling like there are more things I like than not.

One thing I would try if I were you would be to bridge the TFM-35x and try running just one pair of the 12s and see how they react to the increased wattage. If you run the 4ohm woofers in series it should be safe for your amplifier. If there's a noticable improvement in response and speed then I would look for another TFM-35x. Just an idea, that way you would know if they're being given enough juice or not as I suspect that they're not.

jjptkd wrote:One thing I would try if I were you would be to bridge the TFM-35x and try running just one pair of the 12s and see how they react to the increased wattage. If you run the 4ohm woofers in series it should be safe for your amplifier. If there's a noticable improvement in response and speed then I would look for another TFM-35x. Just an idea, that way you would know if they're being given enough juice or not as I suspect that they're not.

I have two TFM-35x's... one is modified the other stock. I'll have to do the upgrade on the stock amp myself, I have the parts (from Rich), just need to find the time to get r done. It has been my feeling from others advice that this is not the best way to have to run your gear... it had been sugested to just run a single channel for each as a better option (something about borrowing from the other side), so I have been avoiding that route. My M-1.0t by itself kicks out some 460W/channel @ 8 ohms... ?

On another note.... how long you all feel it should take the woofers to break in?

"The "Break-In Period" refers to the "loosening up of the woofers' suspension which consists of the spider and surround that terminates the cone to the edge of the basket. The spider mechanically connects the voice coil and cone to the inside of the basket just above the magnet. The spider and surround are the 2 key elements that allow the cone to move. When speakers are new, these two components of the suspension are extremely stiff and limit the performance capability of the speaker. The Break in period will loosen up the spider and surround and once this process is complete the speaker / woofer will perform at its best ability. The end result is greater sonic performance. The best way to "break in" a woofer or speaker is to play music at a resonable level for for 40 hours to gradually "loosen up" or "break in" the suspension."

Happy Brakin' InKim, Polk Audio

As far as running mono amps, different people and different situations will have different results. The main idea I was getting at though was just to see how the drivers would react to the power increase. If they sound better with more power, then you have a few options, use what you have or buy something else. I personally would think you could get away with it (mono blocks for the woofers) since you're running your system in a bi-amped scenerio where the bridged amps would only be on the lower section. I like to try every possible method available just to hear the difference, you can always go back to the way you had it.

"The "Break-In Period" refers to the "loosening up of the woofers' suspension which consists of the spider and surround that terminates the cone to the edge of the basket. The spider mechanically connects the voice coil and cone to the inside of the basket just above the magnet. The spider and surround are the 2 key elements that allow the cone to move. When speakers are new, these two components of the suspension are extremely stiff and limit the performance capability of the speaker. The Break in period will loosen up the spider and surround and once this process is complete the speaker / woofer will perform at its best ability. The end result is greater sonic performance. The best way to "break in" a woofer or speaker is to play music at a resonable level for for 40 hours to gradually "loosen up" or "break in" the suspension."

Happy Brakin' InKim, Polk Audio

As far as running mono amps, different people and different situations will have different results. The main idea I was getting at though was just to see how the drivers would react to the power increase. If they sound better with more power, then you have a few options, use what you have or buy something else. I personally would think you could get away with it (mono blocks for the woofers) since you're running your system in a bi-amped scenerio where the bridged amps would only be on the lower section. I like to try every possible method available just to hear the difference, you can always go back to the way you had it.

Thanks for the break-in information... I got another 30 hrs to go! LOL! I only get 2-3 hours before the family gets home... then the funs over!

I see your point about throwing more power at it to see what that tells me.... I will wait till I have sufficient break-in completed then address that path...

Right on, keep me posted, I'm curious to hear how it all turns out. I'm not going to change mine out for awhile. Factory drivers are 100 watts rms each @ $200 a pop from Klipsch. Crites has his at $210 a pair, and a guy in Seattle will re-cone them them $65 each. I've had speakers re-coned before at that shop and he does good work and I couldn't tell a difference in sound although the cone material was different.

I bought a used SW-15 subwoofer with a blown amplifier (250 watt internal) and I wired it so you could plug any amp up to it. At the time, I had a refurbished TFM-42 (375wpc) and I started off with only one channel since it was rated a bit above the factory amp and I was afraid that I'd blow the driver. I sounded OK but seemed underpowered and slow to me so I hooked it up bridged (1000 watts) and man o man look out! It had plenty of power and sounded awesome! Night and day difference, the sub actually performed beyond my expectations with the amp running mono.

Another little side note, I had a pair of M-500ts one time back when I was still running my Chorus IIs. I loved the combination of the M-500 and those speakers and so just for fun, I tried running the pair as mono blocks to see what the difference would be. Honestly, it sounded exactly the same to me-- it just got louder faster. I didn't hear any loss in sound quality at all. I even switched it back and forth a couple times and exactly the same sound. Just one of those amps easily drove those speakers to ear bleeding volumes so I didn't leave it hooked up that way for long.

First off we just purchased a much larger home and my audio room has a nicer layout and is on concrete slab, which I think is good. I always thought that my issues had something to do with the sub-floor at the old place (remember the bass drone), so thinking back.... my speakers had always been on concrete slabs in the past, when I didn't have any particular issues.

Second.... looks like I will be adding a pair of Silver 7t's to my lineup! I have wanted a pair of those for a long time and plan on parking them next to my speakers with the HF amp sitting center on the glass under my TV.

Third... I have a dedicated power circuit (50 amp 220V) to use for power. I think I will run that to a sub panel in the room and divide it all up from there.

Fourth... shorter speaker cables!

Fifth.... from the crossover I think I will run balanced XLR's to the amps since it will be a good twenty feet.