Lou Guerriero wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I just changed my 215/75r15's to 235's... do I have to change anything for
> speedometer/odometer purposes???
>
Yes and no.. You wont be off by much (about 2-4 MPH at 60 or around
4-5% low ). Just do the speed
limit if it's below 70 and you'll be a bit over and 70 up take off 5.
(Do 65 in 70 Zones.) My truck had 195's stock, when I got it 235's were
on it; as I recall indicated 50 was 53 point something. I'm now running
31x10.5's and the difference wasnt very noticeable at 50. If you REALLY
want to know then find a speedometer shop in your area and have a check
done for around $30 or so; to change your gear to read closer (might be
a little off in the other direction afterwards) expect another $30-50.
There is one small legal issue though.. if your speedometer is off so is
your odometer and in this case it'll be registering less mileage than is
actually travelled. (Admittedly small.. 6000/100,000 but..)
Theoretically if you can find a tire chart giving the revs/mile of your
old tires and the new tires you could figure the % difference/mile and
get pretty close on how far off your speedometer will be. I know mine's
6-7% off and do the math as I drive. ;-) No tickets yet! If you
just want to be safe then remove your old speedometer gear in the tranny
and get one that's one tooth smaller.. you might be reading a little off
in the OTHER direction though. (better to get passed than ticketed eh?)
Remember it IS a ratio, so the error is more at higher speeds. Be glad
you dont have a very new Dodge.. you have to reprogram the engine
computer for the new tire size and if it's not a 'stock option' you're
outta luck. I had one truck in the shop that the owner went up 7 tire
sizes (!!) and the dealer sent him to me.. he wasnt happy when I said
Dodge had to reprogram it for the largest tire size available and it'd
still be off. (Doh!)
I almost quit over one calibration like that.. the vehicle owner got
some outrageous ticket like 78/55 and the owner of the shop I worked at
(then!) wanted me to alter it to match.. The speed sensor in that was
all electric though so no go and I started job hunting!

Ok, yet a few MORE questions from me :)
1. What size is the speaker in the door panels for the '90ish Rangers?
2. Did the '91s (or around that time) even HAVE rear speakers? I am the
second owner of mine and (before I added my 2 subs) it doesn't look like
their was anything back there before. Thanx for any help...
- --
Joe
- --
I'd push a Ford before I drove a Chevy, but I don't need to.
- --
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com/tx/tru2datank/index.html

I have an 88 Ranger 4x4 extended cab with a 5 speed manual
transmission ( code "D", Mitsubishi) that I'm told has a
bad input shaft bearing. A local shop quoted $1650 to rebuild
it and an auto store quoted $1357 + $330 core charge for
a rebuilt one. Both of these prices seem pretty steep, so
I asked the local Ford parts dept. if there's such a thing
as a manual transmission rebuild kit. They said no, just open
it up and use your own judgement on what needs replacing.

The truck has 120k miles on it & I just had a rebuilt 2.9L
engine and clutch put in at 116k miles. (I was on the original
clutch; do they normally last 116k miles?).
Otherwise I'd consider swapping in a 302 with another transmission.
I've also just replaced all the u-joints & had the driveshaft balanced.

So my questions are:
What kind of tools are needed for transmission work?
What parts would normally be replaced just on principle,
and how would I identify any unexpected damage or wear?
Barring abnormal damage, about how much should I expect
to spend on parts?
Is my dealer the best source for parts or is a local auto
store just as good? (Or maybe a mail-order company?)
Is any special expertise required or is it fairly straigh-
forward? (I rebuilt a Mop** engine in the past, with a friend's
help).
Can anyone recommend any good books on the subject? I have
all of the Ford manuals for the truck.
Are there any questions I've missed?

Also, if I do this, how much more mileage could I put on this
drivetrain? (I'm still yearning for that 302 & this tranny
would have to go).

My only transmission experience was about 20 years ago when a
friend helped me change the clutch on a '62 Ch**y truck. When
removing the tranny, he took the front & had me lower the rear.
He thought it was really funny when the oil ran out on my chest.
Oh well; it was his garage & his tools and the lesson has kept
my garage floor free of oil stains ever since.

> I have an 88 Ranger 4x4 extended cab with a 5 speed manual
> transmission ( code "D", Mitsubishi) that I'm told has a
> bad input shaft bearing. A local shop quoted $1650 to rebuild
> it and an auto store quoted $1357 + $330 core charge for
> a rebuilt one. Both of these prices seem pretty steep, so
> I asked the local Ford parts dept. if there's such a thing
> as a manual transmission rebuild kit. They said no, just open
> it up and use your own judgement on what needs replacing.
>
> The truck has 120k miles on it & I just had a rebuilt 2.9L
> engine and clutch put in at 116k miles. (I was on the original
> clutch; do they normally last 116k miles?).(snip alot)

Hi Don, I had a 89 Ranger 4x4 with a 2.9 and a mitsu tranny. I was still
on the original clutch at 212K when the truck was totaled. The tranny had
never been touched. I've never been into that particular tranny, but in
general terms feeler gauges and a dail indicator are needed to set up
preloads and endplay to specs. A press is usually needed to press bearings,
but some people beat the bearings off and on with a hammer. Read your
manuals, they should refer to any special tools that are needed. If your
input bearing has flaked off a bunch of metal, and if that metal has
migrated through the trans, you may have alot of damage. You can kinda
determine this if you drain the oil into a clean pan, does it look like
metalflake? Do chunks of metal come out? The less metal the better
natural. As far as parts, the inside of a tranny isn't a good place to
skimp on quality. Heck, just open it up and look at it, if it is wasted or
if you get in over your head you can always go get the rebuilt or put in
your 302. Just my 2 cents. Buck Shoff

Prices sound about right. A unit before rebuild will cost $1000-1300 from a
wrecking yard if you can find it, and that is a big if. Units I have gotten
have all come from at least two states away. I have never rebuilt one myself
but I have been told that internal hard parts are very pricey and almost
always more costly than just finding another trans. As for cluthes I was told
by a friend, a parts manager of a Ford dealer, that it was built to last
60,000 miles. Mine looked brand new when I pulled it at 75,000.
Have fun,
Robert
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

End of small-list-digest V2 #335....

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here
to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.