Bar Bolonat Restaurant Review

: Chef Einat Admony has slowly and carefully chipped away at building a Big Apple culinary empire. She quietly opened the West Village walk-in falafel shop Taim and then, a couple years later, fired up the burners of the casually elegant Balaboosta in NoLIta. Her next venture was 50-seat Bar Bolonat, also in the West Village, and it’s her best and most elegant yet. The restaurant, like her other establishments, ventures around the Jewish-diaspora-filled Middle East with winning dishes like plump shrimp bobbing in a tangy Yemenite curry sauce or the kibbeh, bulgur-encrusted balls stuffed with beef and pine nuts. Among the entrées, don’t skip the poussin, a roasted chicken made red by a pomegranate sauce, or the flowing hand-cut pasta intermingled with Persian garlic, breadcrumbs and yogurt ricotta. For dessert, the chocolate falafel are worth a nosh. Wines by the glass are pricey; a better option is to spring for a bottle where there are some affordable and decent selections.