I'm interested in setting up a keg system, with 2 kegs in a fridge, with at least 2 full spares. I'm willing to take my time and I was wondering about the best methods to carbonate the kegs, either natural carobnation by bulk priming, or forced carbonation?Which method produces the better beer?I don't really care about it taking more time to carbonate the kegs, and the beer would be drunk over a long period of time.I'm willing to spend up to $1000 to have a good set up, that will last and offer two different types of beer on tap?

Grain and Grape have kegerators that will fit 3 kegs, but they're $1000 without the kegging system or tap tower. Otherwise, just get yourself a bar fridge off eBay and modify it yourself. Make sure the step at the bottom doesn't stop you fitting in your kegs, and try to get one without a freezer if you can.

3 kegs would be an incredible setup, a lager, ale and wheat all on tap at once!Will this set up from G&G keep all 3 kegs refrigerated at once?I'm thinking that I might look into a professional set up, if I'm going to spend a lot of money it might as well be of superb quality.Can the ones from G&G be put on wheels to be moved around?How much room does a draught system take up generally? How compact can it be?

Yep, the G&G kegerators are large bar-fridges that have been designed without the usual step at the bottom, so you can use more of the space for full-height kegs. Just from having a look I reckon you could easily fit 3 corny kegs in there, or maybe even 4 if you're really lucky. They're about the height of your average bar fridge (about the height of a bar, say) and are black. All you have to do is fit the top with a tap tower and drip tray, and you've got yourself a complete draught system in the form factor of a barfridge. If you get a smallish CO2 canister too, you could even fit that inside.

As it's a fridge, it might even come with wheels, give 'em a call, I'm sure they'd be delighted to help you.

In terms of how much space a draught system takes, well, it's just the size of the kegs, plus a CO2 bottle (which come in various sizes), and then the regulators, tubes and a gun or tap which don't take up much space. If you're interested, most homebrew shops have setups on-site. Grain and Grape even has the brews from their last two demos on-tap, so if you're lucky they'll give you a glass or two!

just forced kegged my first keg( this is only my second beer i have kegged ) and forgot a fundamental rule, to lower the gas in the keg to that in the gas line . the beer seamed to get stuck up the unused line on my T intersection ( a two way split in the line). i could not see anything in the line after the T towards the regulator. i connected the two lines to two empty kegs and gassed them up until it was all clear. i still had the reg at the same pressure as i burped the keg( i hope this saved me)
now my noobie question
does it sound as if i did any damage to the regulator and what would it have done if i had got beer all the way up to the reg besides wasting a good batch of pils?

dsk wrote:does it sound as if i did any damage to the regulator and what would it have done if i had got beer all the way up to the reg besides wasting a good batch of pils?

Sorry I missed this question and it could turn into a very long topic in the safety of regulators but I will try to make this brief.

If the beer had gone to the regulator it would not so much have wrecked your beer but would raise several health hazards very quickly.

If it had reached the regulator I would recommend the following procedure:

1. Turn off the tank valve.

2. Disconnect the gas line to your keg - this will save your beer

3. You must relieve the pressure in your lines by whatever means, either slowly unscrew a connection and make a mess, or get some kind of tool and press the valve in on the quick release keg connection in the line and spray it in a bucket.

4. Once the pressure is released disconnect the regulator from the tank.

5 Do not try to use the regulator again - until you have replaced it or had it serviced

Your regulator has a needle valve in the low pressure side of the regulator and it now has become contaminated - it regulates low pressure and contaminants have now rendered it useless and defective.
It is a health hazard and do not mess with it.

CO2 is not an oxidant but should be regarded as one because there may be the smallest trace of air in your regulator and if you where to use the regulator again it may well explode in your face .

I will make the following suggestion for new users of CO2 in regards to hooking up a new tank as have done a brief search and not found any of the following information here but may have missed it.

1. Never add oil or grease to your regulator, if it is stiff or does not work properly take it out of service and have it serviced.

2. When hooking up a new tank always purge it before you hook up your regulator - That means crack the tank valve open a few times for at least a second each time as this cleans any debris out of the tank fitting.( this is for any high pressure tank that you use - gas, oxy ect..
When cracking the valve keep you head below the level of the top of the tank and turn your head, close your eyes and make sure no one in in the area.

Tell your MRS. what you are doing or you will scare the shit out of her as this is very loud - yea I get a laugh from time to time.

3. When your tank is empty turn out the low pressure valve all the way to reduce it to 0 ,disconnect it and place your regulator or at least the male fitting with threads on it in a clean plastic bag and tie it off somehow - take it out only after you have purged your tank and are ready to connect it.

4. Once you have purged your tank and connected the regulator and are ready to open the tank valve :

A. Do not face the regulator when you open the valve - now is the time to turn away.

B. Open the valve very slowly to reduce any risk of explosion .

C. Set your low pressure to the desired setting.

High pressure tanks and regulators are nothing to mess with and also if your regulator creeps - that is the low pressure increases on its own it is defective.

5. All regulators are not intended for the same use so unless you have purchased one from a HBS or dealer that knows what you are using it for do not attempt to use it .

This is a very broad subject and I have only covered the basics so if you have any doubt about your regulator find out or have it serviced.

This post has been edited as I am trying to be clear and thorough, no more changes or additions will be made.

Last edited by Schooner on Tuesday Dec 12, 2006 6:54 pm, edited 3 times in total.

Aussie Claret wrote:Shagger,A bit late, but if you are getting beer in the gas line, the keg is over carbonated. The pressure in the keg is higher than the pressure in the gas line.When you pour the beer all you are getting is froth then the beer looks flat, I did exactly the same thing when I started kegging, it's over carbonated, release some of the pressure from the valve shake it a little and release soem more until you have lowere dthe pressure sufficiently, I pour at about 20-30 KPa.

Try gassing your next keg when it's cold 1-2c not 15c. set the pressure to around 100-120KPa and rock roll until the gas stop bubbling into the beer (you'll hear it stop), should take about 5-10minutes.

AC

I tried this and it worked. Shook my kegs for about 10 seconds, let out the gas. left it for 5 min and poured a good beer.this was my problem

"Well, Today I set up my kep system. I have a 300 litre centrex chest freezer set up with a mashmaster fridgemate set at 2 degrees. Coming out through the lid I have 2 beer hoses connected to a twin faucet. looks great. all i need now is a drip tray and a bar mat.

The kegs were chilled to 2 degrees than according to a book produced by JEFF RODHAM called "THE BASICS OF KIT BREWING", it was connected to CO2 for 24 hours at 350 kpa. He then states to release all the pressure then turn the gas back on until you get the desired serving pressue.

This is the slight problem. I am getting a lot of head and therefore wasting beer.

The pressure at the moment is about 50 kpa.

By the way this is the second batch of beer (first one was bottled and not ready to drink) In 1 keg I have MUNICH LAGER (supplied with home brew kit) and in the other keg I have TOOHEY"S EXTRA DRY.

So, if anyone can help on the too much froth business please reply

Dan"

Anyway, we'll see in the next couple of days if it is still any good.

THINKING IS THE HARDEST WORK THERE IS. THAT IS WHY SO FEW PEOPLE ENGAGE IN IT!

G`day guys. Ive just made the switch from bottles to kegs and I am buggered if I can get a beer to pour properly. I get nothing but jug after jug of foam and can see the beer turning to foam in the line. The beer when it finally settles seems very flat but 80 to sometimes a 100 per cent of the glass is foam. Any help would be greatly appreciated or if there is anyone in hoppers crossing or werribee who want s to drop in for a free beer and point me in the right direction my door is open.

Need a bit more info Nuxta.
Like did you force carb or naturally carb?
If you forced, at what pressure and for how long?
If natural, how much priming sugar/dextrose did you use?
What pressure are you trying to pour at?

Cheers

There is no such thing as bad beer. There is only good beer and better beer.