Monthly Archives: April 2016

Having made great progress it felt great to get this far up so quickly. The wind had been the usual cyclist evil but the scenery had kept me happy. The southern Baja is beautiful and I could see why so many come down to enjoy the scenery, wildlife and warm water. It is however hard leaving somewhere that has so much to offer and has so much to see. Now being at the top of the southern Baja I would now be moving into the north Baja all the time getting closer to the US. With Jules coming out in a few weeks I was getting excited about my next country, new experiences and a good friend.

Saturday 26th March

Although I was awake early I was tired and it seemed to take me ages to clear the tent, put the kettle on, have breakfast, pack the tent, load the bike and post a blog that I had already got ready. Sarah and her son Pedro came out to see me off and I was out and on the road by 8.30am.

I weaved through the soft sand backstreets until I met the main road into town and headed out to the junction. Noticing the wind was blowing from the north west I knew I was in for a tough day. Once I reached the junction the road turned almost exactly north and straight as an arrow for the next 30 miles. I made ok progress considering the wind as it would pick up at times which made my speed drop to about 9mph but then drop allowing me to get up to 12-13mph.

I soon crossed the state line that split the peninsula into north and south making me feel like I was making good progress north. The road remained fairly flat with the odd ups and downs but the landscape remained pretty much featureless and baron.

It did however have a beauty of its own and quite enjoyed the ride

Once I had covered 30 miles the road turned west into the wind but also into some hills. They weren’t big so I managed to keep up a good pace until the road turn east and I reached a tiny settlement called Rosarito. Spotting a restaurant and being just after 1pm I went in and ordered fish. Being brought out fish, chips, salad and pasta was perfect and just what I needed to keep me going. Getting a message from my sister was really lovely as I had managed to get wifi but the best news ever was Joe and Lizzie were getting married and had set the date. It was the best news ever and a couple that were made for each other. Feeling happy about the news I set off again this time heading a little more west but by this time the wind had actually dropped making my life easier if it wasn’t for the increase in hills.

Some of the desert flowers on the way

The cacti came in many weird and wonderful shapes and sizes

With the sun getting lower the colours were starting to make the desert glow and I was now getting closer to where I would call it a day. After the last ten miles taking forever I finally reached Punta Prieta that was nothing more then a few houses and a few tiny shops.

The scenery hardly changed and even the road sign could only think of two things that might be of interest

This rattle snake wasn’t quite so lucky although i was quite pleased I hadn’t see a live one

Not really knowing how anyone could survive here I sat in the restaurant and had my tea. It was just what I needed but the next challenge was to find a place to wash and sleep. Having been shown a piece of waste ground devoid of anything and certainly no water I thought I would head back to the army barracks I had spotted on my way into the village. On arrival I called out to see who to ask but there was no one. I looked around and found the buildings had been abandoned and it looked like it had been for some time. Having eaten and having a little water on me enough to wash I figured I had what I needed and could grab breakfast back at the restaurant in the morning. Feeling exhausted from a few long days I know needed my sleep as I was about to enter the proper desert and I needed my strength to get through in good time and safely.

Sunday 27th March

Waking up in the abandoned army barracks with the sun rising outside and the birds singing was quite nice. Wanting to get going fairly soon I got up and put the kettle on while I packed away my things.

Although I was about to cross the desert or I should say more desert I knew I needed to be more careful with water but with a small shop just a few minutes away I could enjoy a nice cupper without to much worry.

My new friend just checking I had everything I needed and if I had to much could he have some

I set off to the shop to restock on biscuits, snacks and fill my bottles then left the tiny settlement and headed north. The road climbed very steadily for the next 30 miles to where I had been told was a restaurant and could stop and rest.

These Cacti were just incredible

You know your in the desert when you see a sign like this

The scenery was nice, changing from time to time one minute being fields of huge cacti to small shrubs and lots of rocks. The wind although coming from the north was light so I could stay at around 11mph as I climbed and finally reached the settlement of Chapala where I did find a restaurant.

With no garages for the next 100 miles I came across pick ups selling fuel in cans

It was good to eat and although early I needed the break before the next big push. I set off once more still climbing with the odd descent to rest my legs. I was trying to get to Catavina where I was told there was a camp.

As the afternoon went on it started to get much cooler

As I drew close I spotted a sign and soon arrived at the restaurant. I asked how much it was to camp only to find I could camp for free. I sat down to eat when I realised it was still early. Deciding not to worry about it and use the time to check the bike, clean the chain and go through my things it was perfect time to do it. Having covered over 100km felt good but I wanted to put in a good day tomorrow. With my chain clean, my bags cleaned and checked, and my gloves sawn up I set about working on the blog. It felt good to have so much done and helped me relax about not getting to far behind. With the night getting on I went in to charge up my things with the power now on and then headed to bed for an early start. I was really pleased at my progress and looked like I was on track for reaching the states when I had planned before I had got sick. I just hope the wind stayed down to make my life easier tomorrow.

Monday 28th March

Waking up to the dogs trying to get into my tent meant I was awake in seconds. I pushed them away but it didn’t stop them knocking my bike over which landed on my mozzie net and ripping it. I was so annoyed and not only that they had managed to raid my bag and pull out a packet of cookies. I soon scared them off but I could see they were ready for any opportunity to grab an extra snack. I got up and as I packed my things I noticed the wind was up and getting stronger. Even though I was protected behind the cabin I was getting buffeted which left me with one conclusion and that was I was in for a very tough day. Although yesterday had been good and I’d got a lot done it didn’t stop me thinking I should have done another 20 miles. I set off and immediately I battled the headwind to Catavina which I could have made easily if I had just continued. Spotting a small shop stopped to pick up a few snacks and a drink before riding on into the wind. I had been told the next bit was tough but with the wind it could be interesting.

Although it was windy the scenery and the massive boulders were pretty cool

I left town passing amazing rock fields and formations stopping when I saw a small snake in the road. I checked if it was OK by podding it with my stick only to find it was more then ok and was keen to check me out. Not wanting any harm to come to it I flicked it with my stick into the bush and with that it disappeared into the desert.

I headed on and with that a car passed over where it had laid knowing he would live another day. The road climbed and according to my GPS I should start to descend but with every down hill came an uphill the other side. The wind was relentless and any down hill I did get I had to peddle hard to keep going. I stopped at midday at a disused garage to have some cereals that I had been carrying which would hopefully get me through the next 25 miles. I pushed on all be it slowly but never feeling like I was making any progress. It was so hard in the wind and I never seemed to get any rest. I stopped around 2pm after covering 50 miles and grabbed some dinner.

This restaurant was just in a barren wasteland but they made great food and were very friendly

I could see the flags on my bike staining with the wind and I knew I had to face it once more after I had finished my meal. I set off once I had eaten and as I was riding I saw something on the side of the road. I stopped to see what it was only to see it was a portable pergola which looked brand new. I picked it up and with no one around I couldn’t leave it so I carried it for the next 3 miles even though it weighed another 6 kg until a car came along. I flagged them down and at first they thought I was in trouble but when I asked if they wanted it they looked chuffed to bits. Swapping it for two chocolate bars was perfect and we set off with me back into the brutal wind. Determined to get to el Rosario I pushed on but with every descent came a climb.

The hills just kept coming and they weren’t easy in the wind

And just kept going

At times the road was so rough it would have been easier to be on a track

As I would drop I would have to peddle hard to keep going and on the climbs that were a little bit more sheltered from the wind I would often climb at the same speed. I was shattered and by the time I reached town I had covered 82 miles all into a brutal head wind. I stopped at a hotel to see if I could camp and was shown prices of a room.

Arriving in town just before sunset and not a moment to soon

I asked if there was somewhere else and so made my way to another place where I was told I could camp for free. Feeling good after my bargain I pitched my tent sewed up the mosquito net and headed in for dinner. The owner was really nice and while he cooked me lunch I sat on the sofa and drank beer. Although it had been such a tough day it had finished great and I had covered the miles I wanted. With the wind warning up for the next few days I wasn’t out of the woods yet but at least I wouldn’t be going west anymore.

Tuesday 29th March

I felt tired when I woke and the sound of the wind was by no means a motivator for getting up. I had breakfast in my tent and went into have coffee and to say my thanks. Being told I had a 3km climb then it should be flattish helped me get going but I knew I would still have to battle the wind. I left out of town heading south west until it turned a sharp corner and started to climb. I’m not sure if it was 3km but it certainly felt longer. Once at the top it levelled off with great views of the sea but it was cold and I was in two minds whether to put on a jacket.

This military checkpoint did make me chuckle. Although I was concerned it had been taken over by aliens.

I see the sea

Once through a military check point the road dropped towards the sea with the odd climb I between. The wind made it tough going but with the volume of traffic I did get some rest bite.

Passing many farms I saw these tracked machines used to get better grip in the sandy soil

Some old ones that were left to rest

Wanting to cover around 80 miles so as to leave a days ride to Ensenada I pushed on until I had covered 40 miles before I stopped for lunch. It was nice to have the break but knew I couldn’t hang about.

I pushed on into the ever strengthening wind dropping into each small town then climbing out the other side. I passed many snakes on the rode all of which had been killed and wondered how many were dangerous.

I was amazed at how many different types there were

It was cold on the bike today and seeing the signs to beautiful beaches felt strange as it was so cold and cloudy that none would look like the pictures. As I drew close to the town of Colonet I spotted a cyclist coming the other way. We stopped and chatted and I found she was called Andy and was from Brazil but had ridden down from Vancouver.

It would have been amazing to have spent more time chatting but was fun while we did

It was really great to chat and could have done for hours but with the sun steadily going down we both needed to get to a place to camp. We wished each other luck and I headed the last ten miles to the town when I was stopped by a guy called Tarino. He asked if I needed a place to stay and told me he lived in the next town. It was perfect and so gave me directions. On doing this I set off and they sat behind me the whole way. It was nice of them to do so but with the wind it would have been nicer if they went in front.

The sunset was amazing and it somewhere to head to I could ride and enjoy it knowing I had a safe place to sleep

The sun soon set and I pushed on in to town following his directions. After another five miles we arrived at a dark building with no power. It all felt a little strange and was then asked what I needed. I said I need to eat but with no food he kindly said he would drive me into town. It was really good of him and when we arrived we found a lovely taco place owned by a really nice family.

Torino was a great guy and this family were so lovely and made my evening fun

Now full I picked up some snacks and headed back to their place. On arrival the power was on and I was shown around. Torino was a lawyer and had finished to run the restaurant his farther had left him. It could be a lovely place but where it was I did wonder if he would have many costumers. He kindly got me some water that had been heated up so I could wash but I was exhausted. I had covered 82 miles and my whole body hurt. If I could just make it to Ensenada tomorrow I could have a day off to rest and relax after a tough week and having done the miles today had put me in a place where I could make it in time.

Wednesday 30th March

Waking up around 6 am after hearing the rain I hoped it would be a dry day. I looked outside to see a blue sky and Burt climbing out of one of the pickup’s after waking up. Torino arrived and we sat and had breakfast once I had packed.

Torino and Burt, with Torino doing the entertaining and Burt making breakfast

They were really nice guys and were very interesting to chat to but I needed to push on to get the miles done. Once Torino had a ride on Dolly it was time to head off and try and reach Ensenada.

I started to head east then the road turned northwest and started to climb. With it the rain started so I quickly put my jacket on to try and keep dry. It soon passed and I reached the top and on to the next climb.

Riding north and watching a storm move across in front of me

It was hard going and I wanted to cover about 45 miles before I stopped for dinner. With a pass ahead of me rising just under 500 metres I knew it would be a long slog but once I was over I could enjoy I nice down hill to the next small town. The rain continued to be on and off and was getting quite cold in places making me keep my jacket on between the showers.

As I got closer to Ensenada the weather improved and I started to pass vineyard after vineyard. Now being in the wine regain and having a day off I hoped to do some tasting as the people in Ensenada I was going to meet worked in the vineyards.

Seeing all the vines disappear off in the distance was amazing especially with the mountains as a back drop

Reaching the town around 4pm I tried to call Juan Pedro to let him know I had arrived and after a while I finally got hold of his wife Marisa who told me someone would come and pick me up. Arranging a meeting point I waited for a bit when they all arrived to meet me. It was so amazing to see them and their daughter Valeria then to be told they would take me to stay at their friend Tiki and would have a BBQ. We drove out of the city and arrived half an hour later at a house in the countryside to be met by Tiki and Louis who were their friends.

Juan Pedro, Louis, Tiki, Marisa and Valaria were all amazing to be around and great fun

I was shown around and allowed to have a shower before we ate. It was such a nice evening chatting with them all and enjoying their company. With a day off planned for tomorrow and a visit to the vineyard I could relax. They were such great company and I was looking forward to my day off tomorrow.

Thursday 31st March

Waking late I found that Juan pedro had already been and brought breakfast while I was asleep. I got up and joined Tiki for breakfast and with loads of things to sort out before I reached the US I got to work. Needing to sort through my emails and messages then tried to arrange places to stay in US all took time but I was pleased to get it done. Managing to message Jules about his visit in a couple weeks felt good and also hearing from Amanda who was now getting excited about Alaska. I was surprised at how long it all took but having that time was great. Shortly after 3pm Juan Pedro arrived and we headed out to his friend Louis’s place to look around at the vineyard.

This was one of thousands of vines with this merlot being 30 years old

It was clear he knew a lot about wine and was great to see how passionate he was about it. We relaxed at Louis’s for a bit eating freshly picked oranges from the tree then headed out to where Juan Pedro works.

Hear we had the chance to taste the wine which was just amazing and once we were finished I was then given two bottles of their wine. It was so kind of them as I knew how good their wine was.

These shrubs were beautiful

Think I’ll just pop the cork back in

With many wines to taste I was feeling a little tipsy but they tasted amazing

We then headed on to another place where I tried even more wine which was just great but after several glasses I was starting to feel sleepy. On our way back we got a call to say we had to drop Valeria off at baseball and then we would go and get fish tacos. They tasted amazing and felt so lucky I had got to try so many foods in Mexico. Once we had eaten we headed back to the ground to watch Valeria play.

Valaria smashing the ball

She was brilliant and I really enjoyed watching. Once the game was over so we headed back to Tiki’s house to be dropped off. It had been a brilliant day and surrounded by great people. I would be sad to leave tomorrow but I needed to keep going. When we arrived we found Tiki watching a James Bond movie called ‘Die another day’ which was the one that had the bio domes in it that was filmed near where I live in Devon. It was great to watch but I was however tired but it had been a great day and a perfect rest.

Friday 1st April

Needing to leave and head and head to the border, I got up and had breakfast with Tiki. It wasn’t long before Marisa arrived to pick me up and drive me back to where they had picked me up.

Tiki was a star and such a kind person. He was a great person to been around

Once we had said our goodbyes I set off out of the city and up the first climb. Being 4km long it wasn’t long before I was at the top and starting the descent the other side. As I headed north Juan Pedro, Marisa and Valeria went past waving. It was so lovely to see them and even got to stop and let Juan Pedro have a go on Dolly.

Juan Pedro taking Dolly for a test ride

I set off once again passing many vineyards before a nice descent before the next big climb. With this one being at 780 metres high It was going to take a while to reach the top but at a nice gradient I managed to keep up my speed. Once at the top I dropped again and on to the last two but much smaller climbs.

The road to Tecate was beautiful and with the weather remaining good to made for a perfect ride

Looking back up the hill at Mexico knowing I would miss it dearly

As I was descending I got a message from Jorge and was about to reply when he arrived.It was so great to see him and now made it easier to find his house. I followed his car into town and up a few very steep hills and arrived at their house.

Jorge and Selene preparing a feast

I was greeted by Selene and their lovely dogs and was made to feel at home. Once I’d had shower I was then taken to see the sun set.

My last sunset in Mexico and I don’t think it could be better then this

I was made to feel so relaxed and it felt awesome being on the border of the USA. Heading back I joined them in the kitchen to watch as they made a prawn dish using lemon juice, chiles, salt and onions.

If you like prawns you love this but if you like mexican food you’ll find it incredible

It was then time to set up the bbq which we were about to have. Jorges brother and wife arrived along his parents. It was so nice to be made to feel so at home and so kind of them to make this evening so great. It was the perfect end to great day and to the end of another country.

A perfect last night with perfect people

The last stretch up the Baja had been cold and tough going with the wind and the grey clouds but when the sun came out it was perfect riding weather. I was excited about getting closer to the USA and seeing my friend Jules but I was really going to miss Mexico. When I returned to Mexico after spending christmas at home I hadn’t taken into account how much I would miss my family and friends, how much I would miss home, how far I still had to ride in Mexico and how much further I still had to ride to the finish. I did however stick at it and with the help of Chris and Mariann who had given me contacts in Mexico and the incredible hospitality of the Mexican people I grew not just to like it but to love it. I had been treated so well and made to feel safe and welcome everywhere I went. It wasn’t an easy country to ride through with most of my direction being west, The wind, rain, snow, hills, the mental and physical struggles and the preconceptions of it being dangerous but this country has so much to offer and I saw just a tiny fraction. I had met so many cyclists in the south that said Mexico was their favourite country and if they were to choose one to return to Mexico would be it. Now being at the end I to felt the same and I also had many friends to come back to that weren’t just saying come back anytime for no reason but meant it as if I was family. This country is so great and I was sad to be leaving but I have to keep going so I could reach Alaska before the winter. Tomorrow would be a new day in another country `’the USA’ and I couldn’t wait.

Being poorly in La Paz could have been much worse as I was with an amazing host and with an amazing friend. I was however gutted I had got sick when Sara had traveled to far to see me. She did seem to be quite happy to sit in the sun on the beach especially after riding in the snow but I knew she was very keen to see the whales. I knew I wasn’t 100% but I also knew I could ride a bike and just hoped I would improve over the next couple days. It had been so much fun having Sara with me and she had got stuck in and enjoyed every minute which made me think I should find more bugs for her to eat. For now it was time to head north and do some whale watching which she was very excited about.

Thursday 17th March

I woke with the sun coming through the window and although I was feeling a bit better I was far from well. Knowing we had already been in la Paz far longer then we had planned and Sara’s holiday quickly running out we had to get going. Sara had kindly made me eggs on toast while I packed my bags and so joined her and Tully for breakfast.

Jesus, Tully and their dog who wasn’t to bothered about having his picture taken

We were ready by 9.30am and we said our thanks and headed through the city and out of town. I felt like I had no energy and all I could do was turn the peddles slowly. Sara having plenty of days to rest was already ahead and leaving me behind. I couldn’t believe where the last few days had gone and I felt bad I had stayed in the house and been sick the whole time. With a wind blowing in our face it slowed us down but luckily it was a nice cool breeze making it a little more bearable.

As the day went on my legs started to settle into a rhythm and my speed increased. I soon caught Sara and it was then her turn to sit behind and try and keep up. We both seemed to have held onto our coughs we just hoped they would improve with the day. With nothing other then cactus fields we kept going only stopping to wait for each other and to have a quick break.

Feeling hungry and being 3pm we stopped to see what was for dinner. Only having bread and cheese it was a short stop before riding on hoping for any kind of shop. After just half an hour our wish was granted with a small restaurant where we could eat. It was perfect and with another stop after another 23 km it was just right to finish the day. Once we’d eaten we pushed on and continued to climb and fall as the sun got ever lower.

The colours with the tall cacti disappearing off into the distance was stunning. Spotting a truck stopped we pulled over and asked if we could eat. With a yes it was then the question could we camp.

Our camp for the night

Along with a beautiful sunset

The owners seemed more then happy and so were lead to a compound where we put our tents up undercover. With our tents up I lay in mine with my eyes closed to regain enough energy to go and eat. The day had started slow and I was tired but we had covered 59 miles and that was great. Once we’d had a wash we headed in for some food before it was soon time for bed. It was still early but wanting to get to the town tomorrow a good nights sleep was what was needed and hopefully my health would improve.

Friday 18th March

I woke around 7.30am to a grey still day and Sara packing away her tent. Knowing we had plenty of time I enjoyed feeling snug in my bag before I to packed my things and joined her in the restaurant. The owners were lovely but I couldn’t help think what a lonely life it must be out here isolated in the middle of nowhere with the only stimulation from passing truck drivers or the odd cyclist. Once we had finished breakfast we finished loading the last couple bits before setting off.

The sky held a thick motionless layer of grey cloud that covered the sky way off to the horizon. It seemed to absorb sound making the large trucks lose some of the sound as they passed.

It was good not having any wind as it made our progress better but didn’t stop our legs feeling heavy. Feeling a bit better then yesterday I plugged my music in and plugged away listening to some tunes as the scenery passed us by with very little in the way of change.

After covering 15 miles we stopped for a quick drink before setting off again to get to Santa Rita before lunch time. We made good time as as we arrived we met two cyclists coming the other way. They were nice but not in the chatty mood so we said goodbye and went to eat. It felt strange having spent the last four hours aiming for this point to eat and once we had eaten then knowing it was all over and it was time to go again.

By the time we finished lunch the wind had picked up making our progress slower. We had 33 miles left to cover before we reached the town and as long as we kept going we should make it. The road on this part was as straight as an arrow often with no hard shoulder meaning I had to keep an eye in my mirrors for passing traffic. As I was riding I spotted something bright off to the side of the road so while I waited for Sara I went to see what it was. Finding a brand new life jacket for sailing I picked it up and strapped it to my bike. It was a really good one so with a plan in mind I set off again with Sara hot on my heels and being dazzled by a bright orange vest in front of her. We rode the last few miles into town and by this point the wind was blowing really strong so reaching town couldn’t have come soon enough. We spent 15 minutes looking around and soon found a hotel to stay that was a good price. We had managed 72 miles which was brilliant and had given the time tomorrow to head to the coast to see the whales. With a shower and a change of clothes it was just food we needed before an early night. It had been a couple hard long days but having made it here was great and now we could relax and that’s what we did.

Saturday 19th March

With a trip planned to see the whales we got up really early and headed to the bus station to catch the first bus. Being still half a sleep we caught the first bus down and I sat in the front and dropped off. After about an hour and a half we arrived in Puerto Lopez Mateos and were dropped in the square to make our way down to the water front. We sleepily wondered down and reached a row of boat men all ready to set out so once we picked one we were off.

Sara looking very excited about seeing a whale

Within 10 minutes we spotted our first family of whales and followed them as they made their way along the bay. They were fascinating to watch and even more fun when the cub started to jump out of the water. We followed the whales for about 40 minutes before turning around and heading back.

The driver seemed a pretty laid back sort of fella and loved fishing

By the time we reached the shore it was 10.30am and we had seen what we had come here to see. With the bus not due to head back to the town until 2.30pm we had the rest of the day to kill and with little in the way of amusement we headed to a restaurant before returning to the sea to lay in the sun and relax. It was just what I needed as tomorrow was going to be a long day on the bike so wanted the rest.

Walking through town one couldn’t get away from the beautifully coloured trees

As always the time passed and we headed back to find the minibus waiting and seemed like it was just for us he was waiting for. Once on board we were taken to a small shed down some small side street to buy our bus ticket. It was all a bit bizarre but we weren’t complaining as it was about to take us back. After an hour or so we reached the town and dropped off our things before heading out to get a few supplies. Feeling better and being our last day together we stopped for a couple beers and went to watch a VW convention that was going on in town.

We thought this was the best one

It was really great to have a look and see what they had done to their cars and just enjoy looking around. The night soon came and it was time to sort our things to leave tomorrow. It had felt like time had gone so fast but we had done so much. Being our last night we enjoyed an episode of ‘All Creatures Great and Small’ before it was time to sleep it was going to be sad to say goodbye but I was so grateful Sara had come to experience Mexico even if it was a bit colder and windy then she was expecting.

Sunday 20th March

Hearing Sara stir I knew it was time to get up but as always I was reluctant to climb out of bed. Knowing the wind would soon start was enough to kick up the bum to get me into action and start sorting my things. Today Sara was heading back to La Paz before her long flight home and felt strange I would be saying goodbye. She had been amazing company and although I had been sick for five days I think she had enjoyed her time all be it a little different then she had expected. We were both ready by 7.30am and we had our bikes out of the room and downstairs ready for the off.

I felt so lucky to have Sara join me and it seemed like she had enjoyed it to but I was sad to say goodbye

I thanked Sara again for coming out as she had been out so many times before. I was almost on the homeward leg and knew I probably wouldn’t see her until I had finished.

Ready to go

With a light breeze I set off waving goodbye and got my head down to try and cover the miles needed to get to Insurgentes where the road would turn east hopefully giving me a break from the wind.

What you can’t see in this picture is the wind

It was long straight, flat road with not much going on other then the odd farm, cactus and of course the wind. Unable to get much above 11 mph I just kept pushing on the peddles for about an hour and a half when I finally reached the town and stopped for a drink. Having wifi gave me a chance to quickly chat to Jules who was coming out in about four weeks time. We chatted for a bit which was amazing but wanting to cover as much of the distance as I could I had to make it brief and head on. Looking at the map I had under 64 miles to do but according to my GPS I had over 90 miles which I knew was going to take it out of me.

Nearing the top I would soon drop a little down into the canyon

Now heading NorthEast the wind improved along with my speed but I soon started to climb all be it very slight one. As each mile ticked by I climbed about 10 metres which was noticeable in the heat. I was however doing ok and kept going passing thousands of cacti until the hills started to form in front of me. I soon reached a canyon and started to drop into it then followed the road as it wove its way through between the dry rocky escarpments.

The climbs started again and although not huge after 60 miles they were starting to take their toll. I finally reached a restaurant and being around 2 pm it was a good time to stop. I was stopped for about an hour giving me time to eat and have a quick nap before climbing back on my bike in the heat and setting off again.

From here I had about 5 miles before the road turned north and the sea of Cortez came into view. With the huge craggy mountains dropping almost vertically and meeting the dark blue water it was stunning. The next 25 miles I rose and fell following the coast with some breathtaking scenery.

At last the sea of Cortez and what a sight

The steep craggy mountains added to the views

As I rode it got more and more beautiful

One of the huge cactus that line the road

I had thought the day wasn’t going to be interesting but it was beautiful and I was so pleased I had come this way. By the time I reached the outskirts of town I was shattered and very thirsty. I stopped for a drink in a small shop before looking for a campsite I had been told about. Passing a steakhouse and wanting ribs for so long I had to go in first and eat. It was just what I needed before I went to search for the place.

I reached the sea and with the sun now setting the scenery was stunning and pleased I had made it to see the colours change. With a little searching I was in the campsite and set up. I was shattered and after 92 miles I wasn’t surprised. The next question was do I have a day off tomorrow before I hit the Baja and get some miles done and so decided I would see how I felt in the morning.

Monday 21st March

You may think it would be a no brainer waking up and deciding to have a day off at the beach but with over 1200 km to cover of Mexico, a desert to cross let alone another 800 km in the US all to cover in under 4 weeks it was a real battle. Seeing the sun come up and knowing tomorrow I would put a big effort in was enough to clinch the deal. Immediately I felt better and lay relaxing in my tent before I knew I would have to get up before the sun hit. I joined a few others for breakfast and sat enjoying the cool morning air as the sun got higher. Having the chance to catch up on my work was good and gave me the chance to finish one more blog ready to post. Wanting to head down to the water I packed away my things and headed down for a dip. It was amazing being in the water but I couldn’t help wish I had company.

This was a nice way to reach the sea

I was in an amazing place that anyone in their right mind would switch for a day at work but it still didn’t stop me wanting to share this moment. The rest of my day I spent either working or relaxing but I needed it. Having been so sick and not really having much recovery time I knew it was good for me and I was about to embark on a long stretch. Having the day to work felt great leaving enough time before the sun went down to head out for a last dip and while I was in the water I discovered my gate key was missing out of my pocket. Having lost the key about 30 times already today it annoyed me I had lost it again but this time in the sea. I looked back at where my shirt was on the beach and walked through the sand roughly where I had come out and spotted something in the water. I reached down and there it was ‘my key’ I couldn’t believe my luck and before it changed I headed to a restaurant to grab a nice steak.

Nice steak with a local beer perfect

I sat on the water front with a full moon rising, the sun changing the colour of the mountains that rose out of the water and pelicans flying back and forth dive bombing at every opportunity.

I was so pleased I’d had the day off and the chance to fully recover. It was now time to refocus on the task ahead and that was to get the miles done. I knew I wouldn’t do them fast but I was energised and I had a goal.

Reaching the campsite I joined the others and sat enjoying their company as they put the world to rights. It was interesting hearing their views but I wasn’t worried I just wanted to relax, listen and get ready for an early morning start and a big day.

Tuesday 22nd March

Even though it had taken me a while to get to sleep as soon as I saw it was getting light I knew I had to get up. It was 6.30am when I woke but by the time I had dragged myself out of bed, packed and had breakfast it was almost 8pm. By this point the sun was already up and warming the day. Having to sort a few issues with my bank I had to make a few calls but was soon on the road.

Heading out through the quiet streets

I was soon out of the town and starting to climb. My legs felt tired and the bike heavy with the first 10 miles taking a while to cover. I soon got into a rhythm and was quickly getting through the miles.

I soon covered 32miles and stopped at a cafe to have a cool drink. It was so good to have the break and set me up for the next 32. I headed out in the heat and by this point my water on my bike was hot not making it very thirst quenching.

As I rode a truck pulled up next to me and a lady was hanging out the window holding out a bottle of ice cold water. It was amazing and the water cooled me as I drank it. I soon reached the point where the road met with the sea and spotting place after place with amazing spot to jump in and just knew I had to stop. I dropped down a track and with no one around I stripped off and jumped in.

How could anyone resist this

It was amazing and as I swam around I then noticed a fisherman just up the beach that must have got an eye fall as I jumped in. Not really worried I enjoyed the warm currents with the cool spots and lay in the water relaxing. I had covered 50 miles by this point and it was still early but wanting to get over 65 miles I made my way out and got dressed to continue to a point up the road.

Although I felt refreshed my legs had gone to mush and not having had anything to eat since breakfast I had little in the way of energy left in the tank. I kept going passing bay after bay until the road went inland for about 5 miles.

It climbed above the water and made for slow going but with some persistence I returned to the sea to find yet more bays but this time crowded with people. Once I saw a place that looked nice I found a restaurant to eat then headed to the waterfront to find a place to camp. There was a long thin road with a strip of shore that everyone was lined up along with spaces. I found a place next to a nice couple and asked if I could camp. Being more then happy I set up my tent and then was handed a beer.

Tent up and ready to just take it all in

Jorge and Selene were the best company

They make the best tacos in Mexico

Jorge and Selene were so lovely and once I had jumped into the water to cool I joined them for the rest of the afternoon and evening being treated to the most amazing tacos with peppers.

We sat around the bbq and watched as a full moon came up and lit the bay. It was stunning and I felt so lucky I had such a lovely couple to spend the evening with. I was pleased where I had stopped and enjoyed the company of of this kind Mexican people.

Wednesday 23rd March

Waking up with the sky getting lighter I popped my head out of the tent to see the sea before the sun rose above the mountains. It was stunning and with the sea as flat as a mirror it made it even more special.

Sunrise over the sea

It wasn’t long before the sun was up so while it was so quiet I got up popped my shorts on and dropped into the water. It was so amazing and I was the only one in. It’s times like this that I so wish I was sharing these moments but I just had to enjoy them for myself. With Jorge and Selene up I packed away my things and they got breakfast on the go. They were not just generous but so friendly and welcoming they made me feel so at home with them. As we sat eating breakfast the wind slowly picked up breaking the surface of the water and now creating small waves. Coming from the north I knew I was going to be in for a headwind but just how much I was yet to find out.

Heading out to the highway

I got on the road by 8.30am and thanked my new friends for their kindness before hitting the road. By this point the wind was up to around 30mph and making my life very hard. The first ten miles seemed to take ages then the road seemed to get some shelter helping me recover slightly.

Although the wind was blowing hard it was beautiful

This didn’t last much more then 8 miles before I was fully exposed and with nowhere to hide. It was relentless and although the view was ok to start with it soon turned to windswept pamper and endless cacti.

I stopped a couple times to pick up a cool drink but with little in the way of anything I would hide behind a wall just while I drank then set off again. As the day went on the wind increased gusting to around 50 mph almost bringing me to a standstill. I had small rest bites but it was taking its toll. Spotting a cyclist coming the other way I stopped and chatted to Hector who was a 69 year old American from Seattle.

Hector the lucky person heading with the wind. you can see from my flag how much its blowing

He told me the wind was the result of a storm that had moved though the US and produces a strong cold wind that blows down the peninsula. Not wrong about the strong wind we chatted for a bit before the lucky chap sailed off with ease while I struggled to turn the peddles. It seemed to take a lifetime to reach the town and I was shattered.

As I got closer to town I could see the waves picking up out to sea

I stopped to grab a drink then went in search of the fire station which I had been told were very nice. On arrival to the old centre I rode up through the old French colonial buildings to find some guys practicing with their hose pipes. They were all very nice and showed me where to put my tent before heading out to eat. It was a really lovely town one which I was very surprised about.

Santa Rosalia was a nickel mining town and with the french influence it had gained beautiful wooden clad buildings that covered the town in all the colours of the rainbow. Although it was a beautiful place and good to have made it to the town once I had eaten I was keen to get to sleep and get ready for an early start. If the wind was going to be the same as today the earlier I start the better and just hoped I covered the miles early.

Thursday 24th March

Waking to the sun lighting the fire station I looked at my watch to see it was almost 6.30am. Wanting to get on the road before the wind picked up I packed away my things and sat to have my breakfast. With no sign of the firemen I waited a while before I said goodbye and headed out into the quiet streets.

It was already 7.30am but with non or very little wind it was perfect. Once out of the town I started to climb east away from the sea and up some pretty steep hills.

Dropping down for the next climb

Looking back at an approaching truck as it weaved through the mountains

I knew it wouldn’t last but I just had to dig in and get to the top. I reached around 450 metres where the road levelled out slightly and started to head towards a volcano.

A truck pulling a large fire engine. maybe they looked at the volcano and thought they might need something a little bigger

It looked stunning as a back drop and I knew once I was past the volcano I should start to drop. Making good progress and with it still being early I was over the last of the hills and starting to drop. By this point the wind had picked up a little but I found it was more of a tail wind. It was amazing and made a change from the day before. Getting close to San Ignacio I decided I would go in to look around then try and head to the next junction making the most of the wind.

Having turned off the highway I made my way into town and checked out the beautiful church that was in the centre.

The mission in San Ignacio

Spotting a good place to eat I sat and ordered lunch and rested for the next big push. I was sat for about 45 minutes while I ate but wanting to keep going I rode the couple miles back to the highway and picked up a couple sweet snacks to get me going. With the wind still in my favour and another 45 miles to cover I pushed on making good progress. By the time it reached 3.30pm I could now feel the wind shift and was now more of a head wind.

My time was running out and all I could do was dig deep and keep going. I was stopped by a family in their car who handed me an energy drink which was amazing but by this time my speed had dropping to under 10 mph. I was now fighting a fierce head wind once more and I had 13 miles still to go. I stuck at it and after another 2 and a half hours I reached the town and spotted a sign for a RV park.

My camp for the night

Knowing I could camp I headed the next 2 km towards it and checked in. By this point I had covered 92 miles but I was well within reached of the next town. Feeling pleased all be it a bit tired I had the most amazing shower and went to eat in the restaurant. Spotting steak on the menu was perfect for the protein and it tasted amazing. It wasn’t long after it was time to hit the sack. It had been a long but really good day and if I was going to miss the wind tomorrow it would have to be another early start.

Friday 25th March

Waking up late didn’t bother me to much as I only had about 50 miles to the town but wanted to get going soon as the wind was bound to pick up I got up up and sorted through my things. I made myself a cupper something which I hadn’t done for a while and packed away my things. For some reason it seemed like I had unpacked the world but having a place for everything I soon had it in the right place and ready to go. I joined the highway and with little in the way of hills I made good progress.

The road was like this for hours

After covering about 25 miles of windswept pampa and cactus fields I spotted a dog curled up on the side of the road. I called to it and it lifted its head in the sun. I pulled over picked up an old water bottle and cut it up into a bowl to give it water. I filled it up and the dog finished it within seconds. I did this three more times when I heard a voice coming from underneath the drainage ditch. I asked if they were OK and a yes came back. I returned to my bike pulled out some sweets and went back to give to him. He was a little shocked by the food but pleased so I set off and remembered I had an apple. I went back and called to the guy and when he appeared I threw him the apple. He seemed in better spirits so I set off heading towards the town. I covered another 20 miles when I saw something take off and noticed it was an owl.

Barn owl

I was surprised to see it in the daylight but also so close to the road. It was beautiful and after trying to get a picture I rode on only to find it fly right next to me. It really made my day which had been pretty much nothing until now. As I rode on a camper passed me slowly and I waved with a smile and as it drove on I started to say ‘oh look at him on the bike me must be so thirsty we must stop ‘ when suddenly the vehicle pulled over. I laughed at myself and couldn’t believe they actually pulled over.

Just the loveliest couple to meet on the road

They were a lovely couple from Colorado and were on a bird watch trip on their way to see their son. They were so friendly and I was so happy they had stopped. I sat with them for a while eating freshly cut oranges and ice cold water before it was time to say goodbye. I thanked them for stopping and waved goodbye as they set off west. With 8 miles to the town and the wind now picking up the last few miles were slow but eventually I reached town. Having not heard anything from the warm showers hosts I pulled into a garage and spotted a couple police cars. I asked the policemen as they were about to get in their car and they immediately made a call.

They said they knew a guy that was head of cycling in the town and that he was on his way. While we waited I chatted to them and they let me sit in their car. It was so cool sit in a federal police car and at 220kph it was quick to.

This was awesome and I would be quite happy to swap

After a quick ride on Dolly he soon realised that carrying a tent, my underwear and lots of chocolate wasn’t going to make it easy to catch criminals so unfortunately we had to swap back

While we waited Homar arrived and we chatted while they all had a go on Dolly. It was funny to watch a federal police man ride my bike but it was so much fun. I said my thanks to the officers before following Homar to a house. On arrival he explained it belonged to Sara who was on her way. Finding that it was the warm showers host she arrived and apologised for not seeing my mail. We chatted for a while before I had to eat. I pitched my tent and unloaded my things then set out to find food. Spotting a pizza place was perfect and once eaten I headed back to relax. I felt lazy sat in my tent reading but having done the miles I needed it was good to rest for a big day tomorrow. With the sun going down I headed back out to the lake and watched the sun set.

It was beautiful and a perfect end to completing the southern Baja

It was nice to see but again I wanted to share these moments and yet I was alone. It was however beautiful and so once It had set I made my way back to town to eat before retiring for an early night. It had been a good day but it was now time to rest for another big day tomorrow but this time north.

Having got better I was pleased I could enjoy the last few days with Sara and so pleased we had got to see the whales so close. It was so amazing to see her and sad to see her go. Having chance to rest I then got my head down and I was surprised at my progress especially with the wind. I had now managed to ride the whole of the southern Baja and would be entering the north tomorrow. Still with a long way to go I would continue to push on until I reached Ensenada where I hoped to take a day off and rest before I reached the US border. I was almost at the end of Mexico and although I was excited about reaching the states I was also going to miss this country and its people who had been so so kind.

Having arrived early and had chance to relax, enjoy the city and welcome Sara to Mexico was amazing and with the bush tucker trails, being helped by the amazing Aleja and a bit of sight seeing it was time to hit the road and head west to Mazatlan and the Baja peninsula. This was going to be a big landmark for me as it would be the end of the mainland of Mexico and I would soon be in the US. First though we had a pass to cross and from what I had heard the devils spine was amazing and we were both ready to hit the road.

Monday 7th March

The day had come for us to leave town and head to Mazatlan. I was tired from a long day and could hear Sara downstairs sorting out her stuff to leave. With all my things strewn over the floor it took a while to pack before I headed downstairs to join Sara for breakfast. Haven eaten my crunchy nut cornflakes for tea I was now at the end of the box which had lasted two days. I couldn’t believe I had already finished them but they were so tasty. We were soon joined by Jonathan who was also getting ready to leave and it was great to sit and chat before it was time to leave. We were ready to go just before 9.30am and said our thanks to him and headed off.

A great host and a really nice guy

He had been a great guy and wished we had seen more of him but as ever it was time to get going. We headed west through the town following the GPS to the road we wanted and stopped at a shop to get some alcohol for Sara’s stove. As I sat waiting with the bikes the wind started to blow harder and from the direction in which we were travelling. After a while Sara appeared with a sponge on a stick to use as a bike stand and some alcohol. The alcohol was great but the sponge on a stick did look funny and we both realised it wasn’t going to work unless she wanted a clean bike. After a few more minutes she arrived back with a big stick that was perfect and we set off out of town. As we cleared the town it soon became apparent we weren’t going to get far today with the wind gusting so hard it almost brought us to a standstill and knowing we would have to gain around a 1000 metres our speed wasn’t going to pick up.

The wind was already lifting up the dust and we knew it was going to be a tough day

Climbing up and away from durango

Despite the wind Sara kept smiling

It was slow going but gradually we climbed above Durango and closer to the coast. By the time we got to lunch we had covered 15 miles and passed a small cafe on the road. We stopped for some Guaditas to give us energy and hoped while we ate the wind might drop.

Still smiling

With no such luck we pushed on and dropped into a gorge and then out the other side. The scenery was dry stark and barren but with the rock escarpments it kept us happy even though we were being battered.

After climbing just under a 1000 metres I needed to check the distance to the next town. Being 23 miles away and with another 10 mile climb ahead in a brutal head wind with 2 hours of light left it became clear we weren’t going to make it.

We stopped next to a sign for cabanas and decided to go in and ask if we could camp. I was met by Enrique and Esmeralda who were so lovely and they took me to one of the cabins where I showed them where was good place to camp then I asked if they had any food we could buy. They offered us eggs which was perfect as we had rice so we went to set up camp and put the kettle on. With in five minutes they returned and took me to a cabin and offered us to stay inside. With a hot shower, Kitchen, and open fire it was amazing and we couldn’t believe our luck. While Sara had a shower I got tea on the go and headed out to collect firewood.

Sara roughing it in front of the fire. I think she is enjoying this cycling lark a bit to much

After a tough day battling the wind that was still raging outside we were warm showered and fed with the option of a film. Hoping the wind would drop we settled into to our little home for the night that was now toasty and warm. The only thing missing was some insects or bugs for Sara to eat but we can’t have it all.

Tuesday 8th March

Hearing movement in the room I knew Sara was up but being buried under my blankets I was reluctant to get up. I finally lifted my head from under the blackest to see not only was the sun up but the kettle was on.

Good to see Sara knows what the first job of the day is “putting the kettle on”

I could see from where I was sleeping that the trees were still swaying but not as violently as they had been which made me happy I wouldn’t be fighting the same string head winds. I joined Sara for breakfast and by 9am our bikes were packed and we were pretty much ready. Enrique and Esmerelda arrived to say goodbye and we thanked them for letting us stay in their amazing place.

Enrique and Esmerelda were so kind to have helped us

We set off and joined the road dropping down into a gorge then climbed out the other side. The scenery was nice but today it was cold.

We rode for an hour and spotting a restaurant on a climb I suggested we went in for a hot cup of something. Both ordering coffee it warmed our insides before it was time to head out and set off again. This time everything looked different, the clouds had moved in and white flakes started to fall. I couldn’t believed it. We were on the edge of the tropics and it was snowing.

We pushed on to keep warm and with that the snow got heavier. As we dropped it turned to rain and as we climbed it became snow. We were both cold and with lunch fast approaching we started to look for a place to eat. We arrived in a town 7 miles short of El Salto and saw a restaurant. We walked in to find about 15 guys all looking at us. To see this many people in a restaurant wasn’t strange but what was, was the fact they just all stared at us. We ordered our food has we watched in amazement at the hailstones bouncing off our bikes as waves of clouds moved through. Once we had warmed up enough we set off again heading for El Salto and continued to climb.

We were constantly being hit by wave after wave of snow storms and the odd crack of thunder In between. As we started to drop into town a huge hailstorm started and I could hardly see where I was going. It stung every inch of bear flesh and the cold almost burnt.

As the clouds got darker the hailstones started to fall very hard

Spotting a restaurant at the bottom of the hill I headed straight for it and we went in and ordered a hot drink. It was perfect timing and being told there was a hotel behind was even better.

I think Sara was getting the hang of this

We were shown to our room and settled in to find it had an open fire. With no electricity due to the storm was perfect as we could sit and keep warm in front of the fire. Needing fuel I headed to the garage and once back and with the power on I could have a shower. It had been a good day but cold and hard going in the wind but once again we were in a great room that was just what we needed as the temperature dropped.

Not so bad once the fire was lit

With us settled into our cosy room we hoped for a warmer day but with an inch of snow on the ground already we didn’t know what tomorrow would bring

Wednesday 9th March

Waking up to a freezing room wasn’t the most motivating way of getting going but when Sara pulled the curtains to our room we could see that it had snowed really heavily in the night. With around 5-6 inches covering the road we weren’t going anywhere fast.

Sara seemed to be quite happy staying where she was

I eventually got up and headed out to get a couple things from the garage and to gauge whether it was possible to leave. As soon as I got outside it became apparent that unless the sun came out and did its work we would have to stay another day. Once back we had some coffee and breakfast then decided to head into town to have a look around.

By the time we returned to the streets the snow was already melting fast and we would just have to see. We wondered the town for an hour before heading back to the hotel admiring the many snow men that people had built. Everything looked beautiful all covered in snow and by this point it also looked like we could head off.

By the time we had cleared the room and loaded our bikes the road was pretty much clear and so headed out of town. As we reached the out skirts we came to a road block with one lane open ahead. Feeling strong and confident knowing we had 29 miles to the next town we knew we had time to make it even if it was slow going.

With the road block in place it meant we were free to ride with out the danger of other cars and use the whole road. It was beautiful riding along the road and through the evergreen forests that were covered in snow. We had to climb a few hills and we seemed to be making good progress and from the increase in cars it seemed that the road ahead would also be ok.

We passed many small villages with kids playing, making snowmen and throwing snow balls. Everyone was very happy and often waved along with the odd snowball that all missed.

As we climbed higher the deeper the snow got and the road became narrower. Along with that the snow started to fall covering the road that was once clear. We kept going to keep warm and trying to get to the next town in good time. We stopped a couple times to speak with drivers who were all lovely and to let the odd grader pass to clear the road ahead.

Seeing trucks stuck on the main highway we were pleased we were on the libre as most of it had been cleared

We reached the top of the high pass where there was a que of traffic and vehicles waiting to go.

We got through and started to drop only to find the snow hadn’t been cleared yet and was now getting deeper.

It was dodgy on the slippery surface but keeping at a very slow speed we dropped to the bottom of the next climb to find it almost impossible to ride.

From here we had 10 miles to cover and at this rate we were going to struggle to get to the town before dark. As the snow turned to a blizzard I was starting to worry and with my things unprotected I stopped to cover my backpack and found from doing so my rear jockey wheel had frozen solid.

With Sara’s bike having the same problem and now starting to get cold we had to keep moving but as we did all it would do was pull up more snow and refreeze making everything stop working.

Hearing a sound behind that I thought sounded like a grader but I couldn’t be sure we kept our frozen fingers crossed and kept going. Not being able to move that fast due to the deep snow building up around the tyres we were pleased when the grader appeared around the corner leaving an easy path behind. We waited for him to pass along with the many cars and trucks and set off in their tracks.

From here it was now much easier and as we climbed we were joined by another grader. Managing to stay in front I dropped down the other side of the hill to catch up with Sara. Meeting two vehicles in the road I stopped to tell them there was a grader coming when a guy jumped out of the passenger side and walked past me to the other vehicle. Not making eye contact I noticed he was carrying a machine gun and so I decided I wouldn’t bother them and rode on. I soon caught Sara up and with the two trucks now behind I made sure we let them pass.

I couldn’t believe the build up of snow on my bike

Even though the snow was now getting heavy we still had a clear route all be it slippery we pushed on into town.

With the sun on the road it was amazing seeing the road start to steam as it evaporated

We reached the town by 4pm with plenty of time we stopped to have dinner. Not having eaten all day it was good to stop but the pain in my fingers as they started to thaw was unbearable.

Once we were fed and warmed up it was then time to find a place to stay. We searched the town finding many Cabanas but were all really expensive. We then found a place that was really cheap but was so cold I was going numb just looking at it.

Having spotted a hotel on the way into town we returned to the place and although it wasn’t much warmer it was at least a bit nicer. Still being cold with no heating we had our tea and headed to our room. Wrapped up in pretty much all our clothes I knew it was going to be a cold night but we were at least over the high pass and it should now get warmer. Hearing that Patrick and Ratna were in 30 degree heat was unreal and cycling in a blizzard pretty much on the edge of the tropics was just crazy but I have to admit I did rather enjoy it. Hearing it was meant to snow over night we hoped we could head on tomorrow but then with a colder night forecast we would just have to see.

Thursday 10th March

After what felt like ages before I fell asleep I woke in most of my clothes to see Sara buried under a pile of blankets with her hood up. The sun was just rising but it was still to early and cold to get up. Eventually with Sara getting up first I finally climbed out of my warmish cocoon to face the cold. Although there had been little or no snowfall in the night it was still well below freezing as we loaded our bikes.

Waking up to see Sara buried under a pile of blankets made me laugh

By the time we were ready the owners were up and we could retrieve our wet socks and gloves from the kitchen.

Needing food before we tackled the next climb we stopped off where we’d had dinner the night before. It was just what we needed but heading up the road all wrapped up we climbed slowly up the first 200 metres accent.

With Ice all over the road and cars passing we had to be really careful as we gained height. We passed many trucks that had been stuck over night and the odd car that had lost control and crashed. Looking at the GPS it gave me an idea of what was to come but it wasn’t a good day for it. With many more climbs then it showed with less descents we were making slow progress.

There were many trucks that had just stopped until the snow cleared

As we slowly made our way south west passing through a military checkpoint before dropping towards the devils backbone where the road was cut into the sheer cliffs.

A truck working its way along the road right next to the shear cliff

It was incredible to see the rock walls tower above the road but with the recent snow and heavy frost it was clear we had to keep our eyes open for falling rocks made lose my the frost and with huge boulders littering the road we didn’t want to be hit by the even the smallest stone.

A red truck heading down towards me

As we made progress the sun melted the rest of the ice off the road making it much safer to ride. Feeling hungry we stopped in a small town to eat and by this point my cough that I had picked up in the night was getting annoying now and I was starting to feel a fever coming on. Hoping I could shake it we pushed on after lunch and continued to climb and drop one after another.

From time to time the view would open out to the deep valley below and the numerous tunnels that link the new highway. It was stunning but we were shattered. Looking at the GPS we had 14 miles to the next town that included a long down hill.

The new road way below all connected by numerous tunnels and bridges

It took a while to reach the top but once we were there we could finally enjoy an amazing descent. Getting close to the Tropic of Cancer once more I kept an eye on the GPS when a sign appeared on the side of the road. Although I had crossed it further east it was good for Sara as it was another amazing landmark.

Cowburt taking the glory

From here the views opened out to the valley in front of us and out to the sea. With the recent snow the air was crystal clear giving us an amazing view as far as the eye could see.

Looking out across the valley below to the pacific ocean

Getting close to the town we soon arrived and grabbed a snack before looking for a hotel. Being a few hundred metres out of town we continued to drop and reached a place that was not only the same price as last night but 10 times better.

With no hot water just yet I made up the water bag with hot water so we could both have a wash and relax. By this point I was starting to feel rubbish with my skin feeling sore and sensitive. I knew I needed a good nights sleep as we had another long day tomorrow before we reached the town. With the plan to find out about the ferries we needed our energy for the last push to Mazatlan and the Baja peninsula.

Friday 11th March

Being at a much lower altitude our room was so much warmer. Even though it was early the sun was lighting up the sky but hadn’t yet risen above the tops of the mountains. By the time we’d had breakfast the valley was fully lit and the warmth was getting stronger. Wanting to get to Mazatlan to check the ferry we decided to jump onto the new highway which we could join in a couple miles down the road.

We dropped through the trees and met the road which appeared from one of the tunnels that had fed through the mountain. From here we dropped effortlessly for 18 miles with no climbs to spoil the fun. It was amazing to just glide and look across at the old road as it wound its way through the mountains.

Looking down to the new highway and its many tunnels

Thought this was cool, its a full size cutout of a person with a mechanical flag to slow the traffic

After passing through numerous tunnels the road started to level then climb the odd small peak. Having had an easy morning the climbs weren’t hard but not feeling great were now zapping my energy.

Sara enjoying the climbs

The highway from Durango soon came to an end and from here we headed north west to the city. Now being in a headwind made our going a little slower but by 1pm with just a few miles to the port we made our way through the town stopping at a level crossing to watch a huge freight train go through before riding on to the port.

We made the mistake of crossing not realising just how long the train was and as a result were stuck for what felt like forever

On arrival we were told the boat was passengers today and cargo tomorrow and the next passenger boat not going till Monday. With limited time we decided to book on and wait. Not having had any lunch we sat and ate in the port while waited. Once I’d stopped I started to feel rubbish again feeling sore With my eyes feeling sore and I ached all all over. By the time we are ready to board it was gone 6 pm but it couldn’t come soon enough.

Finally made it to the port and the end of the Mexican mainland

Reaching this point was a huge landmark for me having made it across Mexico. With just the Baja peninsula standing between me and the US was great. We got our bikes up onto the top deck and headed inside. We made ourselves comfy and once the boat was underway it was dinner time. By this point I felt terrible and just wanted to sleep. I just hoped a good nights sleep would sort me out but it was a question of where I could sleep.

Saturday 12th March

Once on the boat we made ourselves comfortable and I laid out my thermarest behind the row of chairs. It was the perfect place to sleep and once dinner was served it was where I spent the remainder of my passage. Overtime I would get a wave a nausea and dizziness, along with feeling hot and cold and very sensitive skin. I felt dreadful I just hoped I could shake it off as I knew Sara’s time was limited. I woke to the boat still being far from reaching land and while Sara walked the decks I lay feeling rubbish and trying to recover. We reached the harbour around 5 pm and by the time we were off the boat I wasn’t feeling any better.

The colour of the water was just amazing

With a triathlon going on all the traffic on the ferry had to wait but luckily once the bulk of the riders had gone through the police allowed Sara and I to ride into town.

Sara making friends with the local bobby

The view along the water was made more beautiful with the setting sun

Sara in hot pursuit of the racers

Celebrating with a cold drink after arriving at the Baja and overtaking all 1000 cyclists

The views across the bay were stunning but I was finding it hard to enjoy it. We reached the centre when someone called my name to see it was Tully who we were staying with. She was really lovely and was out supporting her husband who was in the race.

Both enjoying the local cocktails with everyone

We sat and watched the riders come in and head out for their run and while we waited we sat and had a beer. For me this wasn’t a good idea as it just made me feel even worse. We stayed in the bar until about 10pm but I couldn’t stay any longer. Having now got the key we headed back to the house where I made my den on the floor and passed out. I was in a bad way and just couldn’t do anything. Sara was kind making sure I had what I needed but all I could do was sleep and hope I got better.

Sunday 13th March

Waking up I joined the others downstairs where we were promptly taken out for breakfast. It was so kind of them but the whole time I was sat the worse I felt. Feeling worse with every second as soon as it was time to head back I made a beeline for my room. My head was swimming and I was in a real state. Hoping the rest and sleep would help I grabbed some water and went to bed. Luckily for Sara she was then taken out for the day and shown to the local beaches. I felt terrible I wasn’t there to see it but for me it was all I could do to sleep.

Monday 14th March

With the plan to see the whale sharks something I had wanted to see for years but had always been the wrong time I made the effort to drag myself out of bed. We rode down to the waterfront locked our bikes to some benches while the guy looked after them and we headed out on the boat.

After half an hour ride around the bay we reached the point where they were and we went in to take a look. They were incredible and I was so pleased I had got to see them.

Being in the water for about 15 minutes was all I could handle before I pulled myself out and lay on deck and fell asleep.

I hated being ill and especially in such a nice place

I was in such a state but so pleased I had gone down to see them. Hoping the water would do me good we headed back to the harbour but all I wanted was to go to bed. With my head swimming and once again feeling dreadful we headed back so I could return to bed which is where I stayed for the rest of the day.

On Tully’s return from work she was getting worried and so decided to take me to the doctors. With non of the meds working that I had brought I was overseen by the doctor and given a ton of drugs to take. Now dosed up on a cocktail I felt even worse and went straight to bed determined to get better.

Tuesday 15th March

Again I couldn’t believe how rubbish I was feeling and how lightheaded I was. I felt terrible Sara had come all this way to see me and I was unable to do anything. Happy to take herself into town I stayed in bed and slept pretty much for the whole day without eating anything and hoping I would show some kind of improvement.

Tully and Jesus our amazing hosts although I didn’t really get to see them

Having spoken to Amanda on FaceTime was amazing but I had no idea what we had talked about. I was so out of it I wasn’t even sure if I had even spoken to her. Knowing I needed to rest I took myself to bed and stayed there hoping I would start to get my senses back and hopefully back on the bike.

Wednesday 16th March

Waking up feeling a little better I was determined to get out and see some of the town. I knew I wasn’t by any means better and I was still feeling light headed. We headed into town and found a nice restaurant for dinner and we headed to the waterfront to have a dip in the sea.

These sculptures were beautiful

I knew it probably wasn’t the best thing to do but I so wanted to try and get better. It was my head I was struggling with and the dizziness I couldn’t shake. Once back at the house I received another call from Amanda who was concerned at my state. By this time I could at least remember part of the conversation but I still needed to rest if I was going to get better. Knowing I had been out of action for so long wasn’t good and I knew Sara had wanted to see the Whales. Wanting to leave tomorrow I knew I was going to have to take it steady and although I wasn’t 100% I knew I could point my bike in the right direction and hopefully cover 100km. First though I needed more rest and an early night to give myself the best start possible was what I needed.

When Sara came out she had thought it was going to be a summer holiday in the sun but what we both weren’t expecting was 6″of snow. It did however make for a very interesting journey over the pass, one that neither of us would forget. The other thing I hadn’t counted on was getting so ill. The flu I could cope with but the lightheadedness and the dizziness was just horrible. I had felt like I was in some weird dream and just couldn’t shake it off. Having had Amanda call I realised how bad I had got having not been able to remember what we had talked about. With each day I slowly improved I just hoped I could shake it off.

With the plan still to leave tomorrow I knew I had to have an early night to recover as much as I could as I wanted to see the grey whales to the north. I had also got behind and with Julian flying out on the 14th I had to get going once Sara had left me. I was excited to have yet another friend join me and hearing from Amanda that Avril and Lucy had finally got the time off work for their trip to Alaska after 4 months I had an even bigger goal to aim for.

For now I wanted to make the most of having Sara with me and it had been so much fun already. I felt bad she’d had to wait in La Paz while I got better and I was determined to make the most of the last few days we had. She had been so much fun and I was looking forward to heading north once again for our next adventure and couldn’t believe how much we had done already.

Having had the most amazing time in one of Mexico’s most beautiful cities it was now time to head north to Durango and meet Sara. She was now going to be one of a few friends that were planning on coming out and with Jules arriving 4 weeks after Sara leaves and hopefully Avril, Lucy and Amanda to Alaska along with their kids which had been on the cards since I was in Guatemala I was getting excited at the prospect of seeing friends again. Hopefully still having time I hoped to reach Durango early where a lovely lady called Ajela had arranged through the institute of sport a hotel room for me to stay in. Having a nice place to stay and having Sara fly out to meet me was all very exciting and it gave me the motivation to get going and look forward to her arrival and get a few treats ready just so she knew she was on expedition. I just hope she enjoys them!!!

Tuesday 1st March

As always the light would shine through the glass brick ceiling waking me up and as always I was warm and very snug under my blankets. I stayed in bed as long as I could but knew I needed to get up so I could cover the miles I wanted. It didn’t take long to pack my things and I was soon downstairs loading my bike. I joined Francisco and Sandra for breakfast and shortly after Patrick and Ratna arrived. It was so lovely all being together chatting about what lay ahead and getting a few tips. Seeing the time get away I finished my second coffee when Sandra had to leave. She was such a lovely lady and I enjoyed having a laugh with her and Fransisco. It wasn’t long before I was ready so wheeled my bike out and we all said goodbye.

I had only planned on spending one day here but had been here for 5. This due to the city being so beautiful having the time to spare plus leaving my camera behind. I set off out of town which was a big climb to start the day then dropped the other side where I turned off for Durango.

Another one of Mexico’s massive trains

It felt good going so fast and maintaining my speed but knew it wouldn’t last forever. The road gently dropped with little in the way of climbs and by 1pm I had managed to cover 40 miles.

After not starting until 11am I was pleased with my progress but wanted to do a lot more. I pushed on until 3 where I spotted a restaurant to eat. I was so hungry and the stop didn’t come soon enough. I ordered my food which took a while and relaxed. By the time I left it was already getting late and still had a long way to go.

With the clouds building behind me it seemed like I was just staying a head. The clouds looked incredible but I didn’t want to get wet. As I pushed on northwest the wind seemed to get stronger by the second. I was slowly climbing as I moved north but I was being slowed by the wind that was feeding the storm behind. I kept the pressure on as I got ever nearer the top when I saw a sign for the Tropic of Cancer. I had thought about it at lunch but with the wind being to strong it had slipped my mind and yet here I was.

I was now outside the tropics which was a great landmark and one that felt like I was making progress. With an hour of light left and only one small settlement shown on my map I needed to push in.

These clouds just looked out of this world

I was passed by a few military trucks that we’re keeping the highway safe but kept going until I reached the village.

As the sun slowly started to get lower I finally reached the settlement where I stopped to ask if I could camp. Not really sure what I was being told I brought a Coke and sat. A pickup arrived and the guys wanted to know what I was doing. As I talked to the passenger the driver kept drinking his huge bottle of beer at which point I was pleased I wasn’t on the road. Not really understanding what he was saying I went in and asked someone else. They were kind and showed me to a baseball field that they said was safe. I asked for some water to cook then went too pitch my tent. I was shortly joined by a small group of kids who sat and watched me cook. I sat and chatted with them and as it got dark we would try and count to see how many more stars we could see.

It was really nice having their company and made my night more pleasant. It had been a good day with an amazing breakfast and company and although a late start I still covered 73 miles. Crossing the Tropic of Cancer felt amazing and knew I was getting there all be it slowly.

Wednesday 2nd March

Although I had been made to feel at ease I was in a public area with my bike on full view to the village. I just couldn’t settle. I did drop off but woke to the sun lighting the tent and the sound of kids getting ready for school. I finally dragged my backside out of the tent and lit the stove while I packed. I saw one of the young kids watching from a distance as he was to nervous to come over on his own.

I was fine with that as it would have involved sharing my only pack of cookies. With that and an apple for breakfast I finished packing my things and I was ready by 9.30. I dropped off my rubbish and rode out of the village and headed towards Durango.

Looking at the GPS I had a very long and steady up hill. It wasn’t steep In fact in places it was hardly noticeable other then being harder to peddle.

The road rose and fell but all the time gaining just a little in height. I reached the town of Sombrerete by 1pm but I continued to ride around it. As I neared the far end of town I realised I had to stop. I had no energy left and needed to eat. Being lower I dropped down off the highway and stopped at the first place I saw.

My lunch spot for the day

There were two old lady’s that had fish on the menu and looked perfect. For £2 I had a huge plate of fish and veg which I knew would help. I stayed for a while as the storm moved through out to the west and set off as it moved out of my way.

Still climbing I knew it wasn’t going to last finally reaching the last of the climbs and started to drop. From here the going was so much easier and I could enjoy the views. As the storms moved in behind and old ones moved away the colours of the landscape became more vivid.

Getting ever closer to Durango but being to far to make it today I looked for a town which worked out just right.

Having time to stop for a drink I took it easy for the last bit and rode into town an hour before sunset. Spotting a hotel I went to see how much it was and booked myself in. I hadn’t booked into a hotel for ages but I wanted a bit of time to relax without any distractions. I loved meeting people but I just wanted some time out and it felt good. Once I’d had a shower I headed out to grab some food before heading back to watch a film. It felt good to switch off and that’s exactly what I did.

Thursday 3rd March

Although I had a short day ahead of me with only 35 miles to cover I wanted to get going to give me time in the city. Once I’d had breakfast I loaded my bike and set off out of town. Once I reached the highway the road climbed out of the dip and continued to climb.

Thinking it was going to be a flat day I was surprised that I had to climb so much but after about 10 miles of ups and downs the road levelled off and started to drop. Although it was hot work the scenery was nice helping me keep going.

Getting closer to Durango I looked for a place to get water but there was nowhere. By the time I reached the town I was out of water and needing it desperately. Spotting an OXO shop I stopped and brought what felt like 500 litres of liquid and ice cream. It soon disappeared but I was at least feeling much better. Having the directions for the hotel I was staying at I kept going until I reached it. When I arrived it wasn’t the normal cheap hotel I would normally give in and stay at, It was a very nice one with all I could ever want. I checked in and was met by the check in lady’s who were all so lovely.

These girls were so sweet

I was given my key told where the pool was and made to feel at home. With my bike in the room I jumped into the most amazing shower then headed out to the pool to relax. Aleja messaged me to say she would pick me up at 4 pm and with it only being 2pm I could enjoy the cool water in the pool and lay in the sun to warm. Having time to sort through a few things I relaxed in my room having the choice of two double beds one of which Cowbird had.

Cowburt quite happy to stay in bed and watch a moooooovie

With Cowburt not budging from his I was left with the other until Aleja arrived. She was so sweet and asked me where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see. Needing food we headed to a buffet meat restaurant where I ate and ate as much as I needed. It was amazing and set me up for the rest of the day. We headed out and I was kindly shown the town, the cathedral and many other places.

Durango Cathedral

Alejandro’s friend Mitzy arrived and from here we headed to find a bar to have a few drinks. They were both so lovely and great fun to be with.

No Mexican town is complete without a nice beetle and a band

Not really knowing what time it was but feeling shattered we headed back where I was dropped off back at my hotel. I climbed into bed and found it hard to sleep at first because it was so comfy. I was in heaven and it was so amazing to be treated to this amazing luxury.

Friday 4th March

Wanting to get a few jobs done I sorted through my things and got to work on my laptop. It was good to work through my jobs although I didn’t get anywhere near working on my blog. Managing to speak to home and message friends was great and being in a nice place waiting for Sara was perfect. With a list of jobs to do on my bike I set to work first was the chain, then new rear brake cable, then rear brake pads, inject gear clear into the hub, fix a puncture then fix the second one after catching it fixing the first. Then cleaning my pump and in the process flushing a part down the sink which involves removing the waste screw to get it back. As with most jobs they took time and I was covered in oil ten minutes before Aleja was due to arrive. Managing to get clean I headed out to meet her and was taken to a restaurant. From here we picked up ice cream and headed back to Aleja’s house where I got to meet her mum.

Heading out for the night

They were so nice but felt terrible when I knocked coffee over there kitchen table. As the evening went on more of Aleja’s friends arrived and we headed out into town. We picked up some drinks and drove up to the Mirador where the cable car finishes. The view of the city was amazing and one of the nicest I had seen.

Great company in a great town

We pretty much spent the night driving around the city and listening to music. They were great fun to be around but by 12pm I was starting to flag. By the time we got back to the house it was gone 1.30am and I just wanted my bed. Kindly being taken back to the hotel by Jo and her mum I reached my room and pretty much passed out. I was exhausted and nothing was going to wake me.

Saturday 5th March

Having had a very late night and a few to many beers I woke with a sore head and needed to get up and go and meet Sara. I was so comfy in my bed and just didn’t want to get out. With my room being a mess I had to get up and check out. Having a nice hot shower helped and I managed to get my things packed away and out the door by 9.30am. Being 8 miles away from the airport even though my GPS said it was 62 miles away I handed in my room key and thanked the girls. They were so lovely and made it feel so welcome.

I soon reached the highway and slowly made my way north and out of town. As I got within a mile of the airport I could see a plane taxi along the runway and knew it was Sara. It was going to be so great to see her and so rode the last bit to the entrance.

Sara’s here!!

Being a very small airport I waited outside for her to arrive and soon she appeared through the doors. It was amazing to have a good friend join me again and I was looking forward to the ride down to the coast. Having everything we needed we unpacked her bags and built her bike up in the entrance. It took a little longer then usual as I had a hangover and Sara had been on a long flight but with some perseverance we were done and rode back into town to have breakfast.

We reached the hotel where I was staying and used the restaurant to have lunch before riding in to town to have a look. It took longer then I thought to reach the centre but once we were there we looked at a couple churches and sat in the Plaza de Armas and ate an ice-cream. being told that we could arrive at our warm showers host after 3pm we made our way through the streets and to their house. We navigated the streets and were soon greated by Jonathan and Luara. They were very lovely and welcomed us into their home. Once we had sorted through our stuff and taken it to where we were sleeping we were given dinner and had a shower. It was great to be there and relax giving Sara time to unpack. She handed me a few packets with letters and goodies from home. It was So amazing getting them but wanted to wait before I read the letters.

You won’t believe how happy getting this made me

With Chocolate now in my possession we relaxed with our snacks and spent the evening chatting and watched a film on my laptop. I knew sara was tired but watching a film until 10pm would hopefully make her sleep well before a day out in the city tomorrow.

Sunday 6th March

After a great nights sleep our plan was to meet Aleja in town to see the city so we got up and joined Jonathan and Laura for breakfast. With Jonathan heading out on a training ride Laura said she would join us for the tour so once we were finished we took a bus into town. We reached the cathedral and with no sign of Aleja and spotting an ice-cream shop we headed straight for it and grabbed an amazing ice-cream while we waited.

Sara and Laura ready for ice-cream

Aleja soon arrived and we headed over to book our city tour. We sat and waited and soon it was time to leave but on an old bus that wasn’t the best for a city tour. Laura not having to much time decided to give it a miss and so Sara, Aleja and I set off with a very energetic tour guide who spent most of his time singing.

Ready to go

Being a farther and son team, they both had a megaphone and seemed to be talking over each other at about 500 decibels. With the son being the english translator he not only spoke in Spanish the whole time when he did speak in english his translation was about five words then told us he couldn’t do numbers which was just hilarious.

Sara in holiday mode

First was a museum which we didn’t really know what it was for because of the english then took us to a pyramid that was a 7 minute walk to the top where he was unable to speak for the first 10 minutes because he was so out of breath. We gave up knowing what we were seeing and just had fun while the farther sang songs which everyone seemed to know. Our next stop was an old steel works where 60% of the steel that is in the eiffel tower came from.

The old steel works for the Eiffel tower

Seeing as we had time to sit in the sun it was the perfect moment for Sara to try some new expedition snacks I had got her. Having Chapulines which are grasshoppers and Gusanos which are worms that live in the Agave plant it was going to be fun to see the look on her face.

Sara looking very excited!!

When I said I had snacks the excitement showed but didn’t last long. She was brilliant and ate both of them with no problem. Having already had grasshoppers in Oaxaca I also needed to eat the worms and wondered why people even ate them. It was now time to share my treats to the others and the looks of joy being offered something in a bag and then the horror of what was in the bag was so funny. Once we’d had our fun it was time to get some real food and so we set off to a village where we were shown a restaurant. Once off the bus Alaja told us about a better place and so we were taken to eat pork at a very busy open air restaurant. The atmosphere was great and the company was even better.

Although we hadn’t really learnt much we’d all had an amazing time and I was happy to have such great company. With lunch over we returned to the bus only to find one passenger missing. With the farther and son not bothered about waiting we were then taken to a very windy reservoir which wasn’t that interesting. From here we headed back to town with the guide serenading Sara and the Mexican guy who was sat next to her chatting her up.

Durango Cathedral and the locals watching an open air movie

Aleja buying us some sweets to try and having fun in the process

By the time we got back it was almost 7pm and so headed to see some sights in the town. After seeing the walk of fame with many stars on the pavement we then headed to a restaurant for Sara’s next treat Scorpion tacos.

It took a while to reach it with so many people out in the street but arrived with a very nervous Sara.

To be honest it wasn’t something I had ever tried and I was pleased Sara was there to enjoy them to.

These guys looked nasty

Aleja trying the Scorpions

Sara grabbing a quick bite to eat

At first they told us they did’t have any left but with Aleja being persistent they managed to have enough for one taco which had 4 scorpions on.It was brilliant to see them on the table and we were all a bit nervous. In the wild these are very dangerous but here we were about to eat them. Again Sara was brilliant and ate them without any fuss then it was both Aleja and my turn next and they tasted strange with a crunch. Pleased they had run out we paid our bill and left before the owner arrived with more. With it now being dark our next port of call was the cable car up the mountain but with the wind still blowing hard they had closed the lift. We did get to go to a view point but it was soon time to leave and head back.

We had done so much in the day and although we wanted to get food it was now to late and so headed back to our hosts Jonathan and Laura’s. We reached the house and felt sad to be saying goodbye to Aleja who had been such an amazing friend over the last few days and I had felt so lucky to meet so many of her amazing friends and her mum.It was now late but Jonathan stayed up so we could chat for a while before it was time for bed. we were both exhausted and needing to leave in the morning we needed to sleep ready for our first day on the bikes.

Having ridden to Durango felt great and now having Sara with me was awesome. We had already had so much fun and hadn’t even started cycling yet. It was now however time to leave Durango and head to the coast then up the Baja peninsula which was over the mountains and along the devils spine and down to the sea of Cortez. With the unknown ahead it was going to be an adventure and I knew Sara was excited about getting going, I just hoped it was all she had hoped for.