Even if you’re not worthy, as the label on Stone Arrogant Bastard Ale insists, you’re welcome at Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens at Liberty Station.

If you can get a table. Reservations are not taken for groups of fewer than eight, and lines are common during the prime-time evening dining hours.

As we learned, there are two routes around this impasse: (1) Show up for dinner no later than 4:30 p.m., or (2) pop in for a weekday lunch, when the place is often less than half full.

Not quite 5 months old, this is a sister restaurant to the one at Stone Brewing’s Escondido plant. The family resemblance is clear, yet this sister occupies a unique structure: the Naval Training Center’s Building 1. Moving into this historical landmark, Stone was required to preserve its Mission Revival-style bones.

They did so with joyful restraint. The 23,500-square-foot complex spills into airy dining halls, quiet nooks, a boccie court and a patio with bar, fire ring and fountain. From whitewashed walls to plain wooden tables and booths, simplicity informs the design.

The menu is much busier, and that’s a good thing for craft beer fans, who can choose from 44 brews on tap and an additional 85 in bottles, both lists representing Stone and other breweries, foreign and domestic.

I ordered Stone Lifeblood ($6), one of the half-dozen beers brewed on site. This fresh brown ale’s flavors shone, from the initial juicy caramel sweetness to the crackling hop notes at the finish.

Not a beer fan? Neither is my companion, who enjoyed a pinot grigio from Mendocino County’s Forenzo Vineyards ($9), one of more than 30 wines available. Prefer something nonalcoholic? Stone makes its own lemonade and soft drinks ($2.50).

We began with crispy Brussels sprouts in a sweet-and-sour sauce with pancetta lardons ($7); “quail knots,” fried quartered sections of the bird, slathered with a Sriracha honey glaze and served with a tart Asian slaw ($12); and panzanella ($11), a salad of “charred bread,” heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers and herbs from Stone’s Escondido farm.

The sprouts, nutty and savory, and the quail, tasting like dark turkey meat, were winners. The panzanella, since dropped from the menu, suffered from bland bread chunks.

Our main courses also delivered a split decision. My pulled chicken and wild boar sandwich ($15) was drowned in a too-sweet barbecue sauce, made with Stone’s cola. But her BLT ($13) was the best either of us had ever enjoyed. Meaty applewood-smoked bacon, sweet organic tomato, crisp arugula — this was a masterpiece on a ciabatta roll, and I apologize to no one for stealing half.