The fifth taste, umami, has much to do with glutamate, an amino acid found in such foods as prosciutto, soy sauce and a number of cheeses. Umami can show up in your glass, too (fermentation is glutamate’s old friend).

When this recipe originally ran in The Globe and Mail, I received a lovely note from reader Barbara Zuchowicz. This dish reminded her of a wonderful meal she had in Italy: "It brought back joyful memories of a trip to Italy my late husband, an exceptional cook, and I took a number of years ago.

With an electric mixer beat chocolate cream until it thickens, about 1 to 2 minutes. Spread roulade with a thick layer of cream that comes within 1/2-inch to the edge. Place tea towel with roulade partly on your serving platter. Using the tea towel as a guide, roll roulade right on to serving platter.

Chill overnight or for 4 hours. Dust with icing sugar. Cut into slices for serving.