Your Weekend Cocktail: The Air Mail

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Wonder what a drink called the Air Mail has to do with, well, airmail? Around the time the cocktail started appearing, in 1949 (somewhat out of nowhere, as Esquire drinks correspondent David Wondrich explains), it was a not-so-subtle nod to the drink's ability to take you from one state of mind to another. The potent concoction is somewhere in between a French 75 and what's known as a Honey Bee — a mix of Champagne, rum, honey sweetness, and bracing lime. These days, you can't find it everywhere, but at Beretta in San Francisco, we're told it's the most popular thing on the menu. Since the combined effect of sparkling wine and rum is best left to the weekend, you might try it out for yourself tonight.