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JDB8910AWS Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDB8910AWS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Remove lower cover to expose the motor, valves and electrical connections. turn off water supply and electrical circuit breaker. Disconnect leads from float switch. Remove float switch with a single phillips head screw. Replace with new one and attach leads---very easy.

Remove water inlet electrical connections--remember which goes to which connector. Disconnect hot watter supply with open ended box wrench.Remove water inlet valve from washer wall by unscrewing two sheet metal screws. Use 1/4" socket and 3" extension for this. Use pliers to release the hose clamp holding the rubber water line onto the valve outlet stem. Reverse this sequence to intall the new switch. Moderately easy. Have sponge and paper towels to soak up spills when you do the disconnects. .

The wheels and clip were just snapped in to replace old or missing ones. The door latch required the inside cover of the door assembly to be loosen enough to remove the old latch and replace the new latch. approximately ten screws were involved.

Roller broken on top rack, left side.

First, removed end cap in steel sliding upper rail, second, removed broken roller, third, attached new roller, you can look at other rollers to see how it goes on, fourth, feed new roller into track, replace end cap. Takes less than 10 min, saved 85.00 bucks.

Water under the dishwasher

1. I removed the covers below the door and watched during a wash cycle to see where the water was leaking. There was a small pinhole on the rubber connector at the end of what turned out to be the "top shower hose". I was hoping I could just replace that rubber connector, but apparently it is permanantly attached to the entire "top shower hose" assembly. 2. To remove the top shower hose I first turned of the circuit breaker to the dishwasher. 3. I needed to slide the dishwasher about half way out of the cabinet, requiring removal of two screws at the top of the dishwasher attaching it to the counter. 4. I also had to turn off the water and disconnect the water supply hose (at supply valve, not inside the washer) because it had no slack to allow the dishwasher to slide out of the cabinet. 5. I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the dishwasher. 6. I removed the top dish rack (there are clips on the ends of the rails that can be opened to allow the rack to come out).7. I popped off the upper washer arm by fiddling with the clip mechanism. Then I removed the threaded "nut" holding the hose in place.8. As others mentioned, it is good to remember to save and re-use the hose clamp and rubber washer.9. Removed the old hose.10. Ordered new hose, waited for delivery. Kids washed dishes by hand for a few days.11. Installed the new hose. Replaced the rubber washer at the top end and fastened with the "nut." Replaced the washer arm and top dish rack.12. Connected the bottom end of hose, re-using the hose clamp.13. Positioned dishwasher back under cabinet and replaced screws.14. Re-connected the water supply hose.15. Turned circuit breaker back on.16. Began using dishwasher again. Observed a few wash cycles to ensure no leaks.17. Re-attached the covers below the door.18. Done.

Dishwasher began making a grinding noise that sounded like someone being tortured

Figure out how to remove the spray arm (15 min); remove all the parts below (15 min); figure out what's not right (5 min). the pump discharge head is two parts. The flat disk that is attached to the under side of the discharge head came off and was being ground up by the impeller nut. Hence the noise. I superglued it back together and ordered the replacement parts. the superglue lasted through about 1 rinse cycle. The repair parts arrived the following day, and since I already knew how to disassemble and reassemble, the actual replacement was about 15 minutes. The dishwasher hasn't been this quiet in over 2 years.

First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)

Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)

I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.

SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.

I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.

I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.

When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.

I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.

BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.

Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.

Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)

Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.

Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.

Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.

Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.

Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.

Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.

Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.

Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.

Clean up any residual water from the process.

The dishwasher wouldn't fill with water.

I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.

Dishes Weren't Getting Clean

I surfed the net using phrases like "dishes not clean" and found a series of possible solutions. When I noticed that the water in the washer was cold, I realized it was a heating element issue. Using a multi-meter set to the lowest resistance I tested both ends of the heating element (OF COURSE I SHUT OFF ELECTRICITY TO THE DISHWASHER FIRST!!!) and found it read a steady 16 ohms. Then I followed the orange leads to the limiter, removed the leads and tested resistance and found it at near zero. Touchdown.

I ordered the new limiter, had it in a couple of days and installed in in 5 minutes. The hardest part was putting the metal cover back on the bottom of the unit.t

The main control assembly board was burnt. When I pressed on any of the buttons, the timer would turn on for a few seconds and then fade away.

I had to remove the 8 screws around the interior portion of the door using a star driver. Once those screws were removed, the front door separated quite easily. I lifted the inside portion of the door to the "closed" position and used a small screw driver to hold it in place. I then removed the 3 screws using a nutdriver to remove the control assembly. I did remove the assembly without detaching any of the electrical connections. Then, place the new assembly in place (but not screwing it in yet), I moved the electrical connections one at a time. After that, I secured the control assembly, and reassembled the door panel. Everything went very smoothly.

Our first effort was to replace the lower washer arm that had splits in the sides of this plastic part. While this increased the water pressure in the wash cycle some it was not enough to adequately wash the dishes. We read that someone else had to clean out the filter which was below the lower washer arm assembly. Thus, we took off the loweer arm assembly by screwing off the hold down assembly in the middle of the arm. We then took off the pump cover by removing the 6 screws that hold it in place with a #3 metric allen wrench. When we took of the cover we could see that the pump filter was so covered with deposits that it was not letting the water through to the pump. Rather than spend hours trying to clean the filter and pump cover we decided it was easier to repalce them. Thus, we ordered the parts and replaced them. The dishwaster is now working fine. We appreciated the information that others had shared that helped us find and fix the problem.