do tell. i've been buying 1.5" or 2" fiberglass cloth from the marine section. didn't see anything self sticking... and between the house and stoves and my affliction for tinker and improving bike gear the guys at my local ace hardware know me on a first name basis... sad.

Oops56 cut up one of his Trangias to see what was going on inside. We can only speculate at this point why the Swedes put it in there. Maybe to prevent outright spillage if knocked over. Maybe to slow down the burn rate. That's my first guess. Pop can stoves double wall concentrate vaporised fuel within the wall to push it out the jet holes instead of the central hole.

zelph wrote:Oops56 cut up one of his Trangias to see what was going on inside. We can only speculate at this point why the Swedes put it in there. Maybe to prevent outright spillage if knocked over. Maybe to slow down the burn rate. That's my first guess. Pop can stoves double wall concentrate vaporised fuel within the wall to push it out the jet holes instead of the central hole.

zelph wrote:Oops56 cut up one of his Trangias to see what was going on inside. We can only speculate at this point why the Swedes put it in there. Maybe to prevent outright spillage if knocked over. Maybe to slow down the burn rate. That's my first guess. Pop can stoves double wall concentrate vaporised fuel within the wall to push it out the jet holes instead of the central hole.

I think it helps to keep the Trangia from 'runnin away', but it's also why it blooms almost instantly vs. a pop can stove.

Wrap one layer of fiberglass around the inner wall of a pop can stove, tape it in place with a small piece of aluminum tape, leave 1/4" top and bottom so it still fits in the can bottoms, and it'll accomplish the same thing.

I can tell everybody now that Oops let the cat out of the bag.

Skids

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. Albert Einstein, (attributed)

zelph wrote:Oops56 cut up one of his Trangias to see what was going on inside. We can only speculate at this point why the Swedes put it in there. Maybe to prevent outright spillage if knocked over. Maybe to slow down the burn rate. That's my first guess. Pop can stoves double wall concentrate vaporised fuel within the wall to push it out the jet holes instead of the central hole.

I think it helps to keep the Trangia from 'runnin away', but it's also why it blooms almost instantly vs. a pop can stove.

Wrap one layer of fiberglass around the inner wall of a pop can stove, tape it in place with a small piece of aluminum tape, leave 1/4" top and bottom so it still fits in the can bottoms, and it'll accomplish the same thing.

Ridgerunner wrote:OK,Zelph, now that we are back to stove topics(wicks) , I would like to take a moment to pick your noggin' for a second. I have always wondered , what is the ideaology of double wall stoves? Take the Trangia for instance, is there wicking material(back on subject) or some other absorbing material between the walls or is it just dead air? Understanding concepts of stove building will only help nurture my creativity. I'm sure this is like Stovie Concepts 101, but I missed the class and just wanted the end results. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated

Its got a flat wick a round the iner wall top to bottom like a sock

This is important stuff given by oops. He says it's a flat wick . Not stuff like the pink house fiberglass insulation.

He then goes on to say it goes from top to bottom.

It's bringing fuel all the way up to where the jet holes are. Like Skids said : it blooms almost instantly.

Next time you are in an Ace hardware store look at the replacement wicks for Kerosene heaters. You'll see the upper fiberglass portion has the fibers going verticle. Osmosis in action.

I'm inclined to put the Dremel cuttoff wheels to the one and only Trangia I have for the sake of stove science. (after I do more tests in cold weather )

Ridgerunner wrote:OK,Zelph, now that we are back to stove topics(wicks) , I would like to take a moment to pick your noggin' for a second. I have always wondered , what is the ideaology of double wall stoves? Take the Trangia for instance, is there wicking material(back on subject) or some other absorbing material between the walls or is it just dead air? Understanding concepts of stove building will only help nurture my creativity. I'm sure this is like Stovie Concepts 101, but I missed the class and just wanted the end results. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated

Its got a flat wick a round the iner wall top to bottom like a sock

This is important stuff given by oops. He says it's a flat wick . Not stuff like the pink house fiberglass insulation.

He then goes on to say it goes from top to bottom.

It's bringing fuel all the way up to where the jet holes are. Like Skids said : it blooms almost instantly.

Next time you are in an Ace hardware store look at the replacement wicks for Kerosene heaters. You'll see the upper fiberglass portion has the fibers going verticle. Osmosis in action.

I'm inclined to put the Dremel cuttoff wheels to the one and only Trangia I have for the sake of stove science. (after I do more tests in cold weather )

The one i cut open was a military one then it fit back in a fancy fest can steel jb weld it works ok

I'm going to cut my military one open on Monday.Today I did a test on it in my 30 degree garage. It is most difficult to light with 2 ounces of fuel. It needs to be wickitized for sure if it's to be used in cold weather or use a primer pan.

Thanks for all the info---good stuff! Have not been able to get online---my aol has gone kaput. Tried reinstalling it plus a older version with bad results. Had to blow the cobwebs off the old HP , slower machine, and with dial-up, that really blows but better than NO connection.

Seems like a few of you have some cold garage/workshops. Had the same problem until I invested in a kerosene torpedo heater. It does a grat job warming up my garage in a short amount of time , to the point that I can work without a coat on. It makes it nice when you have to do automotive work in the winter. I picked up an old craftsman on ebay rather cheaply. Just a thought to make your workshops more bearable.

"Many of lifes failures are people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up".....Thomas Edison

Ridgerunner wrote:Thanks for all the info---good stuff! Have not been able to get online---my aol has gone kaput. Tried reinstalling it plus a older version with bad results. Had to blow the cobwebs off the old HP , slower machine, and with dial-up, that really blows but better than NO connection.

Seems like a few of you have some cold garage/workshops. Had the same problem until I invested in a kerosene torpedo heater. It does a grat job warming up my garage in a short amount of time , to the point that I can work without a coat on. It makes it nice when you have to do automotive work in the winter. I picked up an old craftsman on ebay rather cheaply. Just a thought to make your workshops more bearable.

You must dislike me with a passion when I load up with so many photos

My torpedo/salamander froze up on me two years ago. Water in the fuel line. Looked like APITA to drain all the fuel out and make sure I got the ice out of the pump. Was going to doit in the summer months but never did

I have a large Modine gas unit hanging from the rafters that I would use if there was;nt so much stuff stored under and in front of it. Slight fire hazard if I were to light it up. My stuff is making me suffer.