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Btw steps per mm might not have nothing to do with that since um2 machines use gt2 80steps for x/y.

The size difference can be just because filament contracts when cools down, some filaments more than others. Also there's a different in size for holes than for exteriors due filament deposition. Print some cubes for each filament/temp used and design profiles to compensate the design.

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If the ratios have changed within the mechanism of the printer between 2 and 2+ then it would have an effect. I've never had a problem to this degree with ABS. I know it shrinks but never had this much.

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Well no. If you use 2.85 and tou se 2.9 you are over extruding but because you use a 0.9x multiplier it should be ok. To adjust that it's better just to use real numbers. Set multiplier to 1 and the filament size to the real size.

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Over extrusion can happen also if you print toohot + too slow. Notice that because the bowden preassure the speed at what the filament can go out its different on each temp. So even when people use to fix that with flow, it's more complex.

What I did to get a base to work when I use a new filament it's to print cubes. And then tou can adjust the flow or find your good speed. It's a matter of trial error.

Btw the corners of that print look brow-ish, that the first sign of the temp being too hot or toohot+slow.

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I see now. The speed base its 30mm/s, the area it's small and you need to telll us what temp you set. I see this it's a classic too hot too slow + small area. That makes the printed stuff to keep getting hot and hot, and going brown. I would print cooler to start. Also since its 0.25 nozzle it takes more time to print the same. Print faster or much cooler. The size variation can be simply because the heat makes it slurry and it expands more. ABS needs heat stability but also too much heat can ruin it.

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