Detailing is a business. With any business, as they say, time is money. In a service based business this could not be more true. You have to make sure you are being compensated for what you feel your time is worth. Now of course this means quoting clients based on the time it will take you to do the detail. However, there is another part of detailing that takes up a significant amount of time.

This extra work is the cleaning of pads, refilling bottles, re-diluting products, washing microfiber towels, etc. You have to make sure you are taking this extra time into account as it is work directly related to providing a quality service.

This work involves many steps before AND after your detail. For us, our process is as follows, keep in mind we are a fully mobile operation specializing in paint correction and only do waterless detailing so our process may differ slightly to those of you who do maintenance washes and foam cannons, but the idea is the same.

Before:

Ensure my vehicle is clean (crucial as first impressions are huge)

Make sure all bottles necessary for the specific detail are full (refill/re-dilute as necessary)

Make sure I have ample microfibers cleaned and ready to go

After:

Wash all contaminated microfiber towels

Clean all contaminated pads

Check inventory and restock as necessary (wait for larger orders if possible to save on shipping)

On top of that there are other aspects of your business, not related to the detail but crucial to the success of your business.

Miscellaneous:

Check appointment schedule

Confirm appointments

Watermark all photos used for marketing

Post photos on various outlets

Check and reply to emails

Now, I understand that the price you have are based upon several factors, location, clientele, skill level, etc. So there is no set price for what you can/should make for this additional time as well. Just keep in mind that the detail job is the only thing bringing in income for that business and that income must support your time in all aspects. Do not sell yourself short. Many detailers get caught up in a price competition with the local car wash companies and this is one of the most detrimental things for your business. If you are a detailer who offers premium services and premium quality, you are not a commodity, you offer value for the price. You own a business, and business need to be profitable. Make sure you take all aspects of your work into account.

Whenever we are reviewing a product we take the scent of it very seriously. While this may seem trivial to some, a good smelling product can set you apart from other detailers, no one likes harsh chemical smells.

When a client comes out to see the vehicle and a delicious aroma fills the air it makes the experience that much better. Countless times I have had a client come out and say “Wow it even smells good!”

On a more psychological scale, scents are often stored in long term memory more than any other sense. So say you were to use the same detail spray at the end of every vehicle. That delicious scent would be remembered with the beautiful finish of the vehicle. Just another way to instill your brand into clients and just adds that much more to your client experience that sets you apart from the rest. Some of my favorites include Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax and the CarPro Eraser. This is an easy adjustment that will give you very good reactions!

Check out these other articles by Charlie and Reece at DI, where they highlight some of their favorite smelling detailing products:

The Sonax EX 04-06 is a medium cutting polish that finishes down like your favorite finishing polish! This allows you to remove light to medium imperfections, while finishing the paint down to that mirror like shine we all strive for. This unique formula was created specifically for use with dual-action or random orbital polishers and the abrasives break down consistently to help you produce the high amounts of depth and gloss. EX 04-06 is water based and contains no solvents, silicones or petroleum. The dust free formula allows for easy clean up and prolongs the life of the polishing pads. EX 04-06 works great as a one step polish and if you have heavy imperfections, we recommend starting off your polishing with the Sonax CutMax and following it up with the EX 04-06 to finish the paint down. Grab the Sonax EX 04-06 today and bring your paint back to life!

I got to test Sonax EX 04-06 at the same time as we did the CutMax testing. Thus, we also tested it immediately on my shop car/daily driver 2004 red Matrix. The photos below are of the same door we scuffed up initially to test the abilities of each polish. EX 04-06 performed very well and I was very pleased with the ease of use and results. It wasn’t as aggressive as some of the other stuff we use, but on this paint it cleaned up quite a bit of swirl marks, even some deeper ones, and left a really nice and glossy finish.

As you can easily tell, the EX 04-06 polish greatly improved the paint and left a nice finish. As expected, it didn’t remove some of the really deep swirl marks, but it performed very well and as the description states… it corrects very well for a polish that leaves the surface ready for protection. It is surely a great product for doing one stage paint polishing and expecting great results, thus I can see using it quite regularly for such projects.

Another good thing is that a little goes a long way, especially after the pad is primed a bit after a couple of polishing sections. This means you get more value out of the bottle and less product to sling around, especially if you end up using it with a wool pad. Comparing it with CutMax, I can definitely see EX 04-06 being used as a finishing polish after a fairly aggressive first compounding stage. It should easily clean up any haze and marring left by the compounding and result in a great finish. In other words, I see it in many cases making a 2-stage polishing into 1-stage and 3-stage into 2. I have yet to try it on some very hard paint to see how it does, so I’ll reserve that for an update or a second article.

Thanks as always for reading and hope others here find great use out of this awesome new product just like I did!

]]>http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/product-review-sonax-ex-04-06/feed/2Waterless and Rinseless Washing: What it is and How to do it Properlyhttp://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/waterless-and-rinseless-washing-what-it-is-and-how-to-do-it-properly/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/waterless-and-rinseless-washing-what-it-is-and-how-to-do-it-properly/#commentsThu, 09 Jul 2015 12:00:31 +0000http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/?p=16061

Waterless, or Rinseless, washing is not a relatively new technology however, it is still unfamiliar territory for many. You may ask yourself; What is it? When do I use it? How do I use it? Why should I use it? Let’s clear all of that confusion up and shed some light on the situation.

First of all what is waterless washing? This is the method of washing a car without the use of a traditional hose and two bucket method. That is where the name waterless comes from, which means you use much less water, not that there is an absence of water. The water helps with lubrication but acts mainly as a carrier, much like water based tire dressings. In water based tire dressings the “dressing”, which is what changes the look of the rubber, is suspended in the water. The water allows the product to be applied easily and then simply evaporates, leaving behind the “dressing”. In a waterless wash system, the same idea is present. The water carries the solution and evaporates leaving behind the protection.

So what do I do?

First, let’s start with the process of completing a waterless wash properly. This is normally done one of two ways. The first method is more along the lines of a traditional two bucket method. Fill one bucket with a few gallons of your waterless wash/water solution and have a second bucket of just clean water with grit guards in both buckets. You then pre-soak either a few high pile microfiber towels. The high pile works best at picking up the contaminants. You then simply grab a towel, wring it out a little, fold it in fours and begin to clean the panel. Go in straight line motions from top to bottom; constantly check your towels and flip to clean sides. Then remove the excess with a dry microfiber towel, waffle weave towels work best. Once all sides of that towel are contaminated dunk the towel into the rinse bucket to remove contaminates, just like you would a wash pad in a regular wash. Put it back into your waterless wash/water solution and continue the process.

The second method is to have only one bucket with your waterless wash/water solution, about 3 gallons is fine. You then need about 6-8 high pile microfiber towels. Pre-soak all of the towels in the solution, then you simply grab a towel, wring it out a little, fold it in fours and begin to clean the panel. Then remove the excess with a dry microfiber towel, waffle weave towels work best. In this method once all sides of that towel are contaminated put it to the side and grab a new towel form the solution. A rinse bucket is not needed in this method because the contaminated towel is never re-introduced to the waterless wash/water solution so the solution is never contaminated. Either method works fine, pick what works best for you.

Always pre-soak the panel you will be cleaning!

That’s all well and good but how does it clean without scratching my paint?

Waterless wash cleans via an emulsion process, meaning that as the product comes in contact with the contaminants it absorbs them into the solution, which is then deposited onto your wash medium, in this case a microfiber towel. It works much like a normal shampoo in that sense, but has a significantly higher concentration of slickening agents to compensate for the lack of extra liquid, aka water, that protect your paint from the removal of the contaminants. The product emulsifies the contaminants so they are no longer directly on the paint, rather suspended in the product.

With all of that said, there are limitations to what a waterless/rinseless wash can do. That emulsification process can only suspend contamination to a certain extent. Going back to the jello example, imagine you put a rock inside of the jello. That rock would not stay suspended in the jello because it would be too heavy for that “barrier” to contain. The same applies with a heavily soiled car and waterless wash. While you may remove the dirt extremely effectively, the particles will simply not be able to be contained by the “barrier” and you may induce marring. If you do have heavy dirt you can simply hose the vehicle down with a pressure wash/hose to knock off those larger contaminants, and do the waterless after that. While this does require the use of more water, it still greatly reduces the overall amount of water necessary.

Its nothing new, California is in a tough spot regarding water scarcity. The drought is pushing for more and more water restriction. Car washes have always used reclaimed, and recycled water in their operations, so those businesses are not necessarily hit by any water restrictions, but detailers, mobile car wash businesses face strict restrictions for waste water runoff and water use. While the cars do not need to be clean to operate, you don’t want to let your car go either. I suggest a waterless wash system when water restrictions have washing cars at the bottom of the list of necessary uses of water.

While I have always implemented a traditional hose and bucket method for washing cars, I have adopted a waterless wash to my regimen in order to do my part in using less water. There is no substitute for a pressure washer and 5 to 10 gallons of water, but waterless washes come in very handy when the car is new, hardly dirty, or simply put, no water is accessible. I see more and more detailers using waterless washes, but this comes at a risk when cars are filthy. In order for a waterless wash to be used, the car cannot be covered in heavy grime without risking damaging the finish and introducing tons of swirl marks and fine scratches. Typically, I tell my clients to only use a waterless wash only after a couple of drives, or when the car is heavily dusty, not dirty. If you can see dirt build up, its best to break out the hose and bucket, or at least knock off the loose dirt first, then proceed to a waterless system. I will typically do this on cars that are coming in for heavy correction jobs that are filthy and need lots of dirt and debris flushed out from the cracks and crevices.

I think looking at things long term, more and more waterless and rinseless systems will be implemented. Products like ONR and waterless wash products will become the norm, and traditional wash methods will be used less and less as the waterless needs increase. Whether there is a drought or not, its a good idea for the mainstream detailing companies and mobile car washers to adopt a waterless or rinseless system if no only for the sake of not saving water, but for adapting to ever changing business operations! Will detailing die off if water cannot be used, absolutely not! Will the process change if water cannot be used, most definitely!

Greg recently approached me and asked if I want to “test and review a super secret new product”. Who says no to that! This is what came soon after and we’ve been enjoying it ever since. The Scangrip Multimatch Light..

This is one of those products that just “feels” good. Even the look of the box and the charger simply screams quality.

Overall the light just looks very well made and put together, which made it hard to be unbiased when testing it out. The front is a plate that contains the light and a replaceable glass assembly. The curved shape ensures the lens doesn’t get scratched or broken during use or when dropped. The color combo is very nice as well…

On the rear you see the large, easy to use power button, which has 2 modes. One is 600 lumens and 2nd is 2000. This makes it a great light for both lighting up an area as well as using it as a spotlight, but we’ll get to that later.

There is a very nice screw cap for the charging port. This goes along with the entire unit being water resistant and dust proof.

The cap unscrews to reveal the charging port, which has 2 small holes and a little notch on top for the cord to fit. The male end on the charger is made with the same material and simply screws on…

Here I took a couple of photos to show how much the Colour Match actually lights up the area. Kept the camera on the same (somewhat dark) setting and the Corvette was fairly dark…

On the first setting at 600 lumens it was already an environment in which you can do some work, but still a bit dark on some places overall…

The 2000 lumen setting really made things nice and bright.

It’s hard to tell in the photo, but you can actually see swirl marks and defects in the paint from quite a distance. This makes it not only easy to work on the side of the car and see stuff like polish residue easily, but at the same time you can check for defects as you’re polishing without moving or being near the light. Simply positioning it the right way will allow for both. In this photo, the light is sitting by the rear wheel, about 4 feet away and slightly angled towards the front. The beam I measured is roughly 9 feet in diameter when it’s placed 4 feet away from the wall. Place it away a bit further and the beam grows.

A few more photos showing the power of the light…

600 lumens…

2000 lumens…

Now a couple random photos because I simply couldn’t stop playing around with it :)…

Onto some serious stuff again. The Multimatch is extremely versatile in that it can be run all day plugged in, but also become a portable work light that you can position anywhere. To fully charge it takes around 3 hours and it has a run time of 1.5 hours on the 2000 lumen setting and 6 hours on the 600 lumen setting, which is pretty good on one charge. As shown a bit in the Corvette photos above, this portability and high power allows it too show defects from quite a distance.

Here I wanted to show roughly what kind of defects can be seen when placing the light a certain distance from the car. In this photo, the light is about 15 feet away and on the stronger setting. It clearly shows swirl marks even at that distance, while illuminating the entire side of the car…

Here it’s roughly 8 feet from the car and already you can see how much stronger it is the closer it gets…

Finally, roughly 2-3 feet from the car the light simply washes out defects in the photo…

In person our eyes can adjust to the light close up, but it’s really blinding and I wouldn’t be using it any closer than 4-5 feet. On the higher setting that is. Lower setting is fine closer up and works very well. The below photo was adjusted for the brightness and shows things a bit darker than what our eyes would see…

As you can see, one can easily spot any defects in the paint and again, you can do this along the whole side of the car without moving the light. You may have to adjust the angle of it once or twice depending on the size of the car, but it should be fine even in just one position. Here’s just a closeup of some very hard to see defects…

And finally a couple of mandatory half/half photos…

In addition to the great light it provides, the Multimatch has a stand that allows it to almost fully rotate 180 degrees, which means you can use it at multiple angles and place it in many different places in the work area…

At the end of the day, I believe it’s a great light for the money. I’ve only had it for a few weeks now so can’t speak for it’s durability, but based on the look and feel of it I can see this lasting quite a long time. The price may be on the higher side for enthusiasts, but I believe it’s on par with anything of really great quality and can see it easily being well worth the money over time. You can also save a bit of cash with the Scangrip Colourmatch Kit, which contains the Multimatch, Sunmatch and Matchpen all in a custom made, shock resistant case. The neutral color is another great feature of the light. We’re used to the cooler LEDs in the Brinkmann, which show defects extremely well, but seeing both the defects as well as the actual color of what the paint should look like seems easier on the eyes. We’ll be ordering a few of the smaller Sunmatch lights asap to either replace or be used in tandem with the older Brinkmann LED lights we have. Here’s my review of the Sunmatch light which we also recently had a chance to put to good use. I can keep going with examples of how the light can be used and how well it works with each of those uses, but I really don’t think I can say enough about it. It’s just one of those tools that comes by every now and then and blows everything else away. We’ll be investing in 2-3 of these lights to use both on the job and around the shop. As always, thanks for reading!

As you can see above, the light comes with a small manual, a charger that can be wall mounted using the two provided screws and has a USB cable with a wall plug. Even the charger on this tool is versatile. Speaking of versatility, here’s some tilt options for you…

The Sunmatch handle can be rotated up to 180 degrees, allowing it to be placed on some surface instead of trying to hold it at the right angle. To keep it moving, it has some cool stuff on the rear as well. In addition to the well placed power button, there’s a small hook that can be used for hanging the light. When not in use, it perfectly folds into the provided “case”…

This one surprised me a bit…

Yes, the charger has a magnet on the bottom, which is strong enough to hold the light and charge it sideways (if you’re into that)…

Not only that, but the light ALSO has a magnet at the bottom of the rotating handle…

If that’s not versatility I don’t know what is. I can see myself sticking the light on the side of the cart as shown above and simply going around the car with whatever work I need to do. Pulling the cart with all my stuff inside will also move the light and I can easily check for defects without picking it up, turning it on and positioning it by hand.

Since I plan to replace the Brinkmann LED lights with the Sunmatch, I wanted to show the difference in light output between the two as well as the color. While I can’t find the Brinkmann specs as they’re no longer available, I believe the 2 bulb setting was around 250-300 lumens and the 1 bulb setting I would assume would be 100-150. Onto the photos…

Sunmatch 180 lumen “low” setting, Brinkmann 1 bulb…

Sunmatch 400 lumen “high” setting, Brinkmann 2 bulbs…

You can see in the photos that the Brinkmann may seem more powerful, but this is due to the tighter stream of light it puts out. The Sunmatch is quite bit wider as can be seen in the photos, but the beam is also strong enough to easily show defects in the paint. As you can see below, even the light compounding haze shows up easily with the Sunmatch…

The Sunmatch is rated for an operating time of 1 hour at 400 lumens and 3 hours at 180 lumens. The charge time is 4 hours. I’m not sure how that compares to the Brinkmann, but I believe that’s plenty of time. Considering I normally use it only to check for defects and turn off right away, it should be days before I need to charge it again.

I won’t go on and on about the Scangrip Sunmatch in this article. Simply put, aside from the power, the Sunmatch has most, if not all of the great features of the Multimatch. It’s a very solid, well built tool that works more than well for the intended purpose. It too is very rugged, easy to hold and water and dust resistant. While it’s not as powerful or doesn’t have the battery life of the Multimatch (as expected), it’s much more portable, versatile and useful in certain situations. All the versatility allows it to be used in many environments and perform quite a few tasks. You can also save a bit of cash with the Scangrip Colourmatch Kit, which contains the Multimatch, Sunmatch and Matchpen all in a custom made, shock resistant case. If you are looking for multiple lights, this is the kit for you!

As I mentioned in our Product Review: Scangrip Multimatch Light article, I am surely going to be buying a few of these Sunmatch lights to replace the Brinkmann LEDs we have over time. I’ll try to update this article after some months have passed and we have a sort of durability test, but I expect them to perform really well.

Thanks again for reading and feel free to post your experience after trying out these great tools.

Having owned quite a few BMWs (6-7 I believe, lost count at this point) and worked on even more at the shop, I wanted to share a few tips I picked up along the way. Most of them are common sense, but I found them to be particular to many BMWs, especially older models. In no particular order…

1. Brake Dust

Most BMWs are known for amazing handling and braking, but with that comes the horrible task of cleaning wheels that are caked with brake dust. Every BMW I’ve owned has had quite a bit of brake dust and the wheels quickly turn from whatever their original color to near black! Many of our clients also complain about it, so here are a few tips to make wheel cleaning easier while maintaining the finish on the wheels.

Regular cleaning is a must. Whether you’re using a regular wash soap such as CG Wash & Gloss every week or so, or giving them a thorough cleaning with a dedicated wheel cleaner such as P21S Gel, it’s very important to get on a regular schedule of cleaning the wheels so they don’t get embedded contamination that will start eating away at the finish. You as the owner have to figure out how often the wheels need a quick wash or a thorough cleaning, but the more often you wash wheels with a simple soap, the less often you’ll have to go in there with wheel cleaners and brushes.

The second part is simply protection. Similarly to cleaning, options vary from basic wax or sealant such as Poorboy’s Wheel Sealant to long lasting protective coatings like 22PLE VM1. The coating will provide better protection for a longer time, but even a basic sealant will help keep off the contamination if applied regularly. I personally like to apply the coating then I apply a sealant every 1-2 months for added protection. If going to coating route, a quick spray sealant like CarPro Reload is quick and easy to apply, but provides good protection.

2. Grille Cleaning

This area gets overlooked quite a bit and is most prominent on BMWs. Whether it’s the plastic grille on many older BMWs or painted, it needs to be thoroughly cleaned each wash. Otherwise, it’s not only going to look dirty and take away from the overall look, but the paint or plastic starts to fade and look old quickly when left dirty constantly. As with the wheels, a good coat of protection is great to keep the dirt out of there and make it easier to clean. I personally like the 22PLE VR1 for plastics and 22PLE VX1 Pro for paint protection.

3. Emblem Cleaning and/or Removal

Similar to grille cleaning, emblems get overlooked quite a bit. BMW has the badges on the hood and trunk, both of which tend to stick up a bit and allow for dirt to get in around the edges. I normally use a brush like the Boar’s Hair Detailing Brush every few washes to remove any dirt stuck by the edges of emblems. This keeps them clean and looking good. Another culprit can be wax residue collecting around these same edges, but it can easily be dealt either by wiping thoroughly when waxing or cleaning with a brush soon after.

4. Removing or Taping Trim

This applies mainly to older BMWs, like E36 and E39, which have a lot of black plastic trim that sticks out of the door panels and bumpers. If not removed or taped properly, the trim can easily collect wax/sealant residue and dirt in the edges. If polishing, it can also be damaged with a pad if it’s not protected or removed. On client’s vehicles we normally only tape it as some are hard to remove and the clips holding the trim to the panels are prone to breaking, especially if they’re old. On my personal BMW I’ve always removed all the trim about once a year to clean underneath and polish without the trim, then I also clean the trim while it’s off the car and protect it before re-installing. It really sets it apart after that’s done.

5. Interior Plastic/Vinyl

This too applies to a few different manufacturers, but is prominent in BMWs. A lot of the leather, vinyl or plastics inside tend to be a harder and rougher surface compared to most other cars. This can sometimes be harder to clean and hard to protect with some dressing. I normally clean these surfaces with a plush microfiber towel and then protect it with something like 303 AP, using the same type of towel. I normally do 2-3 coats so as to get a little darker of a look, which is a bit harder to accomplish on the rough BMW interior surfaces.

Well that’s about it, short and simple :). Hope it helps some of you BMW owners as it has helped me over the years. Thanks as always for reading and please feel free to share some tips of your own.

In my first article about Water Spots, we discussed the science behind water spotting, and the resulting damage that can occur when water spots are left on your vehicle. In this article, we will explore the various ways to remove water spot deposits and etching.

Mineral Deposits (Above Surface Contamination)

As we previously discussed, when beads of hard water dry on your paint, the water evaporates leaving mineral deposits behind. These deposits are what you can see and feel on the surface of the paint.

There are several ways to attempt to remove mineral deposits from your paint. The first choice is simply to try washing your car. If the spots are not too severe, or are new, they may simply wash away. If that does not work, grab your clay bar before you dry the car and do a test spot. Detailing Clay is used to remove all sorts of bonded surface contaminates, and can be effective at removing some water spot deposits as well.

If you’re unable to remove the deposits with washing or claying, and you are certain the defect you are seeing is an above surface defect, then you should consider purchasing a dedicated water spot removal product like CarPro Spotless or Optimum MDR. Hard water is more alkaline (pH greater than 7) than pure water due to the high mineral content, therefore most water spot removers are usually acidic (pH lower than 7) in order to neutralize the deposits. These products can make quick work of mineral deposits. For more information, check out my Product Review of CarPro Spotless.

Etching (Below Surface Defects)

If you have tried washing, claying, and water spot removers but haven’t been able to remove the spotting, chances are you’re dealing with a below surface defect. The minerals that form the water spot can start to eat into your paint creating a small etching below the surface of the clear coat. Like swirls and scratches, these etchings are repaired by removing paint in order to level the surface. In order to do this, we must begin a paint correction process utilizing various pads, products, and machines to refine the surface and eliminate the defects.

I mention this quite often, so I might as well say it again, but it is always important to start with the least aggressive method and work your way up. Clear coat is quite thin, and if you jump right to a heavy cutting pad and cutting compound, you’ll most likely see good defect removal, however you may be removing more paint than is needed to level the particular defect therefore you’re “wasting” valuable clear coat. Water spot etchings can become very severe, however it is still important to take the time to analyze the defects and perform the necessary test spots to determine the best process to remove your unique defects.

As you can see in the image above, this vehicle was plagued with an incredible amount of hard water spots (owner must have parked by a sprinkler for years as the damage was only to one side). The left side of the photo has undergone a 2 step paint correction process, and you will notice there are still some heavy etchings that remain (notice how you can actually see the ‘crater’ left in the paint). Due to the very thin paint on this car, I was not willing to go any further with the correction, therefore this damage can be considered permanent. With that being said, the improvement was still drastic and the overall appearance of the car was dramatically enhanced after the correction process as seen below.

Once the water spots deposits and/or etchings have been removed, it is a great idea to add a new layer of protection to your vehicle to help protect the paint from future spotting and other environmental contamination.

Over 6 months ago, Chad “Rasky” Raskovich reached out to me with a peculiar and very specific request. “Greg, do me a favor and send your personal information to the email address at Griot’s Garage I am enclosing at the end of this message. Also, please include a short bio of yourself and all else will be explained upon completion of this task.”

My response was something to the effect of, “uhhh OK, I guess,” which was accompanied with a deep sense of curiosity and intrigue. So I did just as instructed and off I went.

That was my initial introduction to Jeff Brown of Griot’s Garage. So, while I am sure more than a few times since then that he wanted to ring my neck, we have become friends. Since the time I sent that initial email to Jeff, Chad and myself have been part of a “test pilot” program which was designed for the real world Research and Development of these products. Through a series of testing and detailed feedback writings and conversations we were some of the first people to witness and help refine this new amazing BOSS paint correction line.

Recently, I read this on a forum, and thought it really captured the opinions which many professionals seem to have of Griot’s Garage.

“if you did these two machines it would…move you up to a even a pro grade (Machine wise) in the industry.”

With the release of the Best of Show System, Griot’s Garage has cultivated a new approach to paint correction, catapulting their line into the center ring of the Professional arena. Whether using these products as a system, or standalone, these products work well for the professional and enthusiast alike. While designed as a system, those of us more daring will be inclined to use them on their own.

With their new Best of Show System, there are literally over 380 different configurations between

2 Tools

4 Liquids

5 Pads

2 Sizes

Innerflex or no Innerflex

Washer or no washer

…to address virtually any paint defect or type you come across.

While Chad will handle more detailed information on the machines, I will give my impressions, quickly touching upon them. The ergonomics of the Dual Action machines are amazing. The way they fit into your hand and the ease of gripping make the machines a joy to use for 15 or 200 min. I could not find any fault with the design of these polishers. While they may be a little heavier than other machines in this category, the power behind the correction capabilities makes it well worth it. Additionally, a great touch Griot’s did was to send a washer mod with every machine. This allows space between the backing plate and the machine’s shroud, allowing for “free spinning” of the backing plate which allows for a little more backing plate rotation.

Moving on to the Pads and Cream’s. Starting with the pads, the white pad made a huge impression on me, stopping me in my tracks upon first use. The correcting power is truly amazing, while it also has great finishing capabilities, greatly reducing the DA haze. Additionally the low profile and firm nature of the pad’s backing doesn’t allow for the dreaded “wiggle” which can occur with thicker softer pads used with long throw dual action machines. The Micro Fiber pads are a great addition as well, offering incredible finishing capabilities, without the hassle of becoming matted down with spent product and paint residue.

Again in the forums these types of comments were seen about the old correction liquids:

“It’s no secret their chemicals have always been lacking, so doubt they would hype them up this much, even if reformulated.”

I’m sorry to say that I did share that overall belief about the former Griot’s correction liquids. The old polishes were outdated and crude compared to what is the market standard of today.

But, with the introduction of the BOSS system, the creams or polishes are also nothing short of amazing. The sub-micron abrasives contained in all of these liquids places these products in the conversation with best in the marketplace. The type, size, and amount effects both the cut and finish abilities. As a bonus the dust factor is very low. More in depth analysis of these liquids in articles to come.

To me, the stand out product here is the correcting cream. The high capacity for cut and the incredible finishing properties of this cream make this product a star unto itself. This is a perfect candidate to be used for 1 step corrections, allowing the user to apply their wax or sealant of choice the moment after the panels are wiped down.

Below is the Griot’s BOSS system chart, which explains the overall components of the system and their uses. These will be included with every machine shipped.

While this short article serves as a brief introduction and overview to a few elements of the Griot’s BOSS System, I want to say that Griot’s has continually surprised me and stepped up its game with each additional component of the system I was sent during testing. So I wanted to keep it brief because I know myself and Chad will follow up with more detailed articles on each part of the BOSS System. For now also see Chad’s BOSS Pads and Polishing Creams review and BOSS Polisher review.

Introduction:

As if the awesome new tools Griot’s Garage just released weren’t enough, they’ve also debuted a whole new line of pads and polishes designed to complement the tools and complete the whole BOSS™, “Best of Show System”. The new polishes were developed in-house at Griot’s state-of-the-art design center with the help of some talented chemists and a great development team. Via Jeff Brown, I was fortunate to be a part of this exciting release and help test and provide feedback on some of the 120+ formulations. While I’ve done a few pre-release testings for various companies, this was the first time I’ve been involved this early in the development and I truly enjoyed learning about everything that goes into the process. In fact, I think that may just be a good article topic for later on.

Product Description:

BOSS™ Pads

BOSS™ Pads are designed with precision to withstand the rigors of Long-Throw Orbitals, while delivering superior performance, control, and comfort. Pads provide the contact patch between you and your paint finish. Just like racing tires gripping the track, this interaction is critical to success.
Our 8mm thick, low-profile design delivers unrivaled energy transfer and defect removal. The pads’ low center of gravity and light weight improve tool stability and pad control for smoother operation. We use the highest quality reticulated foam, cut to our specifications. All BOSS pads feature a center intercooling hole designed to resist heat buildup at the center of the pad which eliminates common dishing and other pad component damage for extended pad life.

BOSS™ Creams

You can tell the difference from the first drop. In our drive towards perfection, our proprietary Best Of Show System™ formulas were created in-house at Griot’s Garage to do exactly what they say: fast correcting, mirror polishing, sealing and protecting. Blended and bottled at the Griot’s Garage Manufacturing Facility, these liquids empower you to achieve visibly better results in less time. Consider them to be precision tools, flexible in use to adapt to virtually any paint finishing scenario. Pair them with the appropriate BOSS™ pads and prepare to be amazed!
All four BOSS creams utilize specialized levels of sub-micron abrasives, which more efficiently remove defects and leave a highly-refined finish. Each cream is engineered with rich, high-lubricity, non-filling components to promote faster pad rotation so you can produce a true, concours-worthy finish in less time.

Pad Reviews:

All of the pads perform very well and I’ve become a big fan of the thin pad designs a lot of companies have been releasing of late. A thin design allows for more rotation, faster correction, easier to clean, and they take up far less space.

Micro Fiber Pads: These pads have a thin, medium-density foam backing that deliver the cut you’d expect from a MF (Micro Fiber) pad in addition to finishing better than some other competing brands. It’s no surprise that I’ve adopted the Griot’s Micro Fiber as my go-to cutting pads for most jobs lately. I generally use these pads along with the thin Fast Cut MF pads, which have been released for a while now.

White Fast Cut Foam Pad: These pads are firmer foam, similar to a few others out now like the CarPro Flash pad and Rupes UHS pad and delivering very impressive cut and finish for foam! When it comes to heavy cutting I tend to prefer MF pads, but these offer a cut that is very close to MF and leave a better finish. The firmer foam “feel” does take some adjustment, at least for me, but again, I’m a MF pad guy. One other thing to note about the white foam pads is that much like other stiffer foam brands, they can have a tendency to sling polish after the initial priming. Be sure to spread your polishes around first and never take the tool off the paint while it’s still spinning.

Orange Correcting Foam Pad: These pads will likely be a popular go-to pad for those 1-step correction jobs. The pad offers solid cut and should finish LSP-ready on most all paint types.

Yellow Perfecting Foam Pad: These pads have been a champ at finishing down perfectly on all paint types I’ve used them on so far and have become my go-to for finishing when paired with the Perfecting Cream.

Black Finishing Foam Pad: I honestly haven’t had to use these pads much on a car yet so I can’t provide much feedback, but they worked very well throughout the testing.

Innerflex Pad: The Innerflex pad is something completely new for polishing and is essentially another tool for your arsenal. While the new thin pad trend is great for cutting, it also poses an issue when working on cars with lots of curvy panels. Griot’s solution to this dilemma is the Innerflex pad, which is essentially placed in-between your backing plate and pad, giving you added cushioning and allows for the pad to conform to panel contours. It will also help reduce aggressiveness and increase user comfort. Another added feature of the Innerflex is a reduction of temperature build-up in your pads and extension of their life. I REALLY LIKE THESE PADS!

Cream Reviews:

Fast Correcting Cream: The majority of the vehicles I work on receive a 2-step correction or more, so Fast Correct has really been one of my most-used compounds over the last 6 months. Its cut is on par with most of my other compounds but it has little to no dusting, especially when used with the MF pads, and the long working time is great, making it a very pleasant-to-use compound. Paired with the Fast Cut MF pad I was able to quickly eliminate swirls and even RIDS with some quick, focused polishing on several hard BMW, Audi, and Mercedes paint types. The only possible ask is a slightly better wipe-off; while it’s not hard to remove by any means, it’s also not as easy as something like Meguiar’s D300. Regardless, this isn’t a significant concern and I would say the wipe-off is similar to that of a few other compounds I use in my work. Since there always seems to be a trade-off when developing compounds & polishes, the great cut, working time, and almost nonexistent dusting out weigh a little added wipe off effort. Not using too much product helps with wipe off a lot, as does towel choice. I would suggest using only 3 pea-sized dots of Fast Correct after initial priming.

Correcting Cream: Correcting Cream is an excellent middle of the road compound that can cut very well and, with the right pad choice, still finish out LSP-ready on almost all paint types. I would compare the cability of this product to one of my other well-liked products, HD Adapt. The wipe off of Correcting Cream is a little better too, but again, keep usage to only 3 pea-sized drops after priming.

Perfecting Cream: Perfecting Cream is an excellent finishing polish and has worked flawlessly on every paint type I’ve worked on so far, even those soft, touchy black B-pillars. Paired with the yellow pad it completes my go-to 2-step combination and I’ve been thrilled with its overall performance.

Finishing Sealant: The Finishing Sealant is the one product I haven’t spent much time with thus far and there have been formula updates post-dating the receipt of my sample. Notwithstanding the changes and my limited use, the initial bottle I received polished in like butter, but that is the limited feedback I’m able to provide. I will try to do an updated review once I order a bottle of the released product.

Product Images:

Pads

Innerflex Pad

Polishes

Pic of showing of of the test batches, various formulations (abrasive size, type, load, emulsion, ect)

Doing some testing with Correcting Cream and the orange pads

Closing thoughts and comments:

I feel the BOSS™ system as a whole is going to be a huge hit in both the enthusiast and professional detailing markets, but the individual components are also able to stand alone and perform individually. The pads have an excellent design and appear to be very durable based on the zero failures I’ve experienced over 6 months of use. All of the new creams perform beautifully and even have their own unique, pleasant scent, which is a welcome quality for me, as a non-fan of products with a strong scent of solvent. Of course this is always an area that comes down to individual taste, but all of the testers I spoke with loved the scents. In fact, to quote one of the other testers, Eric Witt of Tru-Shine Detailing; “When I use orange I crave creamsicles. When I use white I just want to spread it all over some cinnamon sticks! I told Jeff to make sure he puts DO NOT EAT on the labels!”

As I noted in my article covering the new Griot’s tools, this really is the era of a whole new Griot’s Garage! I’m confident that once you’ve had a chance to try the whole suite of new and improved products you will agree!

Introducing THE BOSS! Welcome To The New Griot’s Garage!

What do I mean by the “New” Griot’s Garage? Well, up until now I have always viewed Griot’s in the same vein as companies such as Zaino and Adams; while I know they have a niche selection of great products, I’ve always viewed them as “enthusiast” brands. But, with this new BOSS system, I feel Griot’s Garage has stormed into the professional market, like THE BOSS™!

Seriously though, I think you will be impressed not only with these new tools, but with the system as a whole! In this particular review I will only focus on the tool, but be sure to check out my review on Griot’s BOSS™ pads and polishes as well.

Video Review

Background Story: Meeting Jeff Brown

Rewinding back to June 2014, I received a random email from Jeff Brown of Griot’s Garage. Jeff introduced himself, shared his industry experience and explained his role within Griot’s. Jeff spent 17 years working for Meguiar’s, which obviously got my attention! Another key tidbit from this email piqued my interest; that Jeff happened to live just a short 15 minutes from me. After exchanging a few emails we arranged a time to meet and discuss detailing stuff, over a few beers of course, and the rest was history! Throughout the rest of the summer Jeff provided me with a variety of previously released products for testing and the provision of feedback. When Jeff asked whether I’d be interested in testing development products, admittedly I was only mildly enthusiastic initially. Between the commitments of working at my full time job and detailing part-time. I’m afforded precious little free time for testing, but I was curious to see what Griot’s had been concocting over in Tacoma, Washington, so I agreed to take on the challenge. Fast-forward to last December when Jeff asked if I had time to preview and test some”stuff.” I set aside a weekend and lined up a test car. When Jeff pulled the tools from his bag it was like Santa Claus himself was handing me the best Christmas gift ever; I was totally blown away! But enough about all that, let’s get onto the actual review!

Product Review:

Product Description (From Griot’s)

Designed to perfection in Tacoma, Washington, THE BOSS™ is the most innovative orbital ever! These tools are built right, using the best of the best in materials and manufacturing methods! Packing 900 watts of muscle, THE BOSS™ Long-Throw Orbitals combine a perfect balance of performance, control, and comfort. Prepare for unparalleled polishing effectiveness!
Griot’s Garage™ offers up two configurations: THE BOSS™ G15 has a 15mm orbit and THE BOSS™ G21 has a 21mm orbit. That’s an 87% and 162% difference, respectively, in orbit throw between THE BOSS™ tools and a conventional 8mm random orbital. The G15 comes equipped to use our BOSS™ 5” pad system and is recommended for experienced enthusiasts or detailers. The more aggressive G21 is set up for our BOSS™ 6” pad system and is recommended for professional detailers.
Built to withstand tough professional use or weekend use at home in your garage, THE BOSS generates consistent torque regardless of user technique, encourages the fast pad rotation rates needed to power away the deepest defects, and ensures smooth, low-vibration operation.

Product Details

900 watt, 7.5 amp motor

Precision-machined, steel counterbalance

Premium NSK™ bearings throughout

Variable speed, instant on trigger/throttle

Quick access brush side ports

Ergonomic design

Double-shot rubber grips on the main handle, body and head

15mm offset on the G15, 21mm offset on the G21

Interchangeable 5″ and 6″ backing plates (G15 comes with the 5″, G21 comes with a 6″)

Stainless steel washer included in tool pouch (ships uninstalled)

Price G15/G21 (MSRP): $365/$385

Thoughts and Observations

I’ve been using these two polishers exclusively since December 2014 and, for reference, my previous go-to tools were the Rupes 21/15. When Jeff handed over the new Griot’s tools, I was blown away! These were clearly not just re-branded, off-the-shelf polishers, but completely new and redesigned from the ground up. In your hands, the heft indicates that these are well-built tools, comparable to my German-built Flex PE14 rotary. The edges are rounded, making the tool very comfortable to hold and reinforcing the significant consideration that has gone into each component of THE BOSS™. Unlike other tools I’ve seen, the rubber grips on THE BOSS™ are not hard or plastic-feeling, but a nice, comfortable rubber you’d want and expect. The trigger is variable-speed and instant-on, which are a welcome features. The main handle fits perfectly in your hand and the lock placement can be set effortlessly; attesting to thoughtfulness of design. Side-by-side with my comparable Rupes, THE BOSS™ offer noticeably more power and are more resistant to stalling over curved panels. With respect to vibration, I didn’t really notice a difference between Rupes and Griot’s tools, both are very smooth. The Griot’s tools are a hair heavier and while the sound of the tools have a lower (cooler sounding) tone, the actual volume “may” be a tad louder. In my opinion, given the more-powerful motor, quality bearings and construction, the weight and sound are an inconsequential trade off for greatness.

Conclusion, final thoughts:

I know the number one question I’ll probably get is, “Should I buy a Griot’s or a Rupes?” Let me be very clear by saying that I love my Rupes tools! Rupes was the first to market with large-throw DA machines and they have served me very well for over 2.5 years now. If you have a Rupes large-throw DA now you probably won’t realize a significant benefit by purchasing a Griot’s tool, as both will ultimately achieve the same end-goal. However, I feel the G15 and G21 are better tools in every way and if you are in the market for a new large-throw DA, my opinion is that THE BOSS™ just raised the bar to a significantly higher standard and threw down the DA gauntlet. The detailing industry has been exploding with great products, tools, and innovation over the past few years, fueled by a drive for excellence and thirst for competition and the top spot on the podium. Thus, with the release of these new Griot’s tools, I’m somehow reminded of the long history of the Camaro vs. the Mustang. Your move Rupes!

CutMax was designed to remove heavy imperfections while finishing down extremely well! The highly corrective paste formula helps remove up to 1500 sanding marks and other heavy imperfections from severely weathered paint with ease. CutMax is water-based which allows for a long working time and it will not dry out like other compounds. This means dust free polishing so you don’t have to clean up that annoying dust! After application, simply wipe off the polished area with a clean microfiber towel and you’re done. Even though you will have a great deal of gloss left behind, you still may need to follow up with a lighter polish. If this is the case, the Sonax EX 04-06 is a perfect follow up to remove the haze and finish the paint down. This unique polishing formula is solvent, silicone, and petroleum free, making it body shop safe. If you are looking for a great heavy cutting polish, the Sonax CutMax is a great choice!

We got to test CutMax a month or so ago and I wanted to share some thoughts. The test car was my 2004 Toyota Matrix that serves as a shop car for us as well as testing grounds for anything and everything. It only seemed fitting to test this out on parts of it and see how it performs. We decided to test it on my driver side door, which wax first poorly washed in order to cause a bunch of swirl marks and marring. By poorly washed, I mean we took a dirty microfiber towel, sprayed it with ONR and then wiped off a ton of dirt! Not a great idea normally, but for testing purposes it was perfect as it led to this…

As you can see, there is expected haze, which I assume is from the pad itself since it’s fairly aggressive for this paint. Otherwise, the CutMax worked very well and I believe it finished down really well for a compound that provided such good correction. In the following photos, we went over the same section with Sonax Perfect Finish and a white LC pad, which left a perfectly glossy finish…

For those wondering, yes there are very deep swirls left over on the side we polished. This paint is and always has been extremely beat up, so it would need a couple compounding stages to remove most or all of the deeper stuff. However, since we test stuff on it all the time, we try to limit the amount of polishing as much as possible and avoid a trip to the body shop for paint work :).

Back on topic… Sonax CutMax is definitely a great product that I see us using regularly. On medium to soft paint such as this one, it will perform very well at correcting the paint and leaving a finish that’s easily refined with a quick pass with any finishing polish. I believe when used with foam pads it will leave a great finish and on some harder paints may even be considered as a 1-stage polish to both correct and leave a great finish.

I will update the thread if we have any new findings or tips with CutMax as we gain more experience with it, but for now I definitely plan on using it on a regular basis!

In part 1 we saw the prep work leading up the body being corrected, protected and enhanced. Part 2 picks up at the wheel coating and finalizing the c7 z06 for the owner to enjoy:

The Z06 wheels are removed for complete cleaning and decontamination in preparation for Modesta BC-06 on the wheels and calipers. After coating, we cured the coating with our Krauss InfraRed Curing lamp. Currently, we are the only shop in the United States with this amazing IR lamp. It has an onboard computer that can be instructed to run programs and measure surface temperatures so that it keeps the curing process precise and within very specific conditions. This ensure optimal curing without risk of damage to clear bra or substrates.

When we speak of buttoned up, this is what we mean! A full body tear down clear bra wrap, paint correction, Modesta BC-05 on the body, Modesta BC-06 on the wheels and calipers, the interior leather coated and exterior glass treated with a hydrophobic coating! Clear bra wrap that is as stealth to see as it gets. To show that, we’ve documented many areas that would otherwise show edges.

Well protected and gorgeous to boot!

If you’re in Atlanta or even somewhat local and would like to discuss clear bra installation, our professional car detailing services, Modesta paint coating systems or any other service we offer, feel free to reach out to us! We at Detailed Designs Auto Spa are happy to consult with car enthusiasts and owners of fine automobiles who are looking for an amazing experience and results that match.

Some of you may have read some of our past matte care articles and recommendations. This pesky paint finish undoubtedly looks amazing, but it does have many things to watch out for when caring for it. Meguiar’s recently shared with us some great matte care recommendations and we wanted to take the time to share them with you. Below you will find Meguiar’s recommendations, along with links to some of the great articles our AAP Authors have taken the time to write.

Meguiar’s

Matte (no gloss) paint finishes have been around for many, many years. It dates back to the 1940’s when “hot rodding” was born. Rat Rods were one of the 1st cases paint with no gloss to it. In many cases, customizers could not afford paint, so the matte finish “primer look” was the perfect solution. In other cases, it was a counter-reaction to the high priced typical customs being built.

Today, you can find matte finishes in many forms. Vinyl, aftermarket refinish industry and even OEM’s are offering matte paint options to consumers. Lamborghini, BMW, Mercedes and Hyundai just to name a few. Bottom line, matte finishes are becoming more and more mainstream.

Keep in mind, there are many ways to create a matte paint finish. Primer is still used in some cases, single stage paints can be matte and even base coat clear coat finishes can have a matte appearance.

Regardless of the type of matte finish, care for them is similar yet very different than a traditional gloss paint job.

The main thing to remember with matte finishes is…you cannot remove oxidation, scratches, swirls, acid rain, or other below surface “defects” like you can with a traditional “glossy” paint finish. If you do use a compound, swirl remover, polish or wax with any kind of “cleaner” in it on a matte finish, you will begin to change the appearance of the matte finish. It will begin to look uneven and blotchy. As a result, it is vital that you do everything possible to not create scratches or swirls while caring for the vehicle on a regular basis.

Whether you have matte vinyl, a custom matte paint job, or an OEM matte paint job, there are several products that are safe to be used on these types of finishes to maintain and protect them. Here are some tips for keeping them looking their best!

Washing

Avoid most automatic carwashes, especially the “brush” style as they can create scratches that cannot be removed.

Premium microfiber wash mitts and premium microfiber drying cloths are a must. Poor quality, dirty toweling will create swirls and scratches that can’t be removed from a matte finish.

2 buckets with Grit Guards in both buckets will also help reduce the chance of scratching.

Cleaning/Prepping

We do not recommend using clay, compound or swirls removers on matte finishes. If you do use a compound or swirl remover, the finish will begin to look blotchy and uneven. Unfortunately, there is no way to remove scratches, swirls, stains or any other below surface defect in matte finishes, so the key is to use the right product and techniques to start with.

Polishes

Polishes (cleaner/polishes or pure polish) should also be avoided. They will begin to change the appearance of the finish, and it will begin to look blotchy and uneven.

Waxes

Traditional liquid or paste waxes should not be used as they may also change the appearance of the matte finish. They could create blotchy and uneven appearance.

Spray waxes, like Ultimate Quik Wax (G175), Gold Class Premium Quik Wax (G77) and Synthetic Express Spray Wax (D156) are safe to use and work great to add protection without changing appearance of the matte finish. Make sure and use premium, clean microfiber towels to ensure a scratch and swirl free finish.

We first thoroughly cleaned the wheels with various brushes, towels and chemicals.

Next came the coating…

Right after the first photo, we ran out of the small orange towels and used the DI Mini Towel, cut into smaller pieces…

It was very hard to tell on these wheels when the coating was flashing, but under a certain light it was noticeable. We waited around 6-7 minutes for it to be slightly grabby before wiping off. You can tell the slight difference between the “wet” part of the wheel (bottom and right) and the parts where the coating was wiped off, to the upper left…

The wheels came out great and the appearance didn’t really change at all, except maybe for a light sheen added to it. The matte finish was still very apparent…

Couple shots of the wheels outside on the car…

Overall the application process and looks very pretty much the same between the VX Pro and the VM1. Time will tell on durability, but all we can do is hope the client doesn’t sell the car until we see it again. The wheels should definitely be well protected with either product and I wouldn’t mind reaching for the VX Pro if I was to run out of the VM1 wheel coating on some job.

What Are Water Spots?

Water spots are a very common issue experienced by most vehicle owners at one time or another. These annoying little spots can make your nicely washed vehicle look dirty, and can potentially even create some very serious damage over time.

It seems like the majority of tap water is considered to be “hard water”, meaning it is rich with minerals. When hard water is left to dry on the paint, the water evaporates and mineral deposits remain on the surface of the vehicle. These mineral deposits, or water spots, are very stubborn and will really bond to the paint which can make them difficult to remove. Spots can also be formed from acid rain (We will discuss how to remove water spots in depth in another article).

If the water spots are left on the paint for too long, they may start to etch into the clear coat. Once this etching has started, the damage has now become a below surface defect within the clear coat rather than a bonded contaminate on top of the clear coat and will therefore need to be dealt with differently. In severe instances, these etchings can become so deep that they may require repainting to completely repair.

How to Prevent Water Spots

Now that we have a basic understanding of what water spots are and what kind of damage they can cause, here are just a few simple solutions to help avoid the risk of harmful water spots to keep your paint looking its best.

Do Not Wash in Direct Sunlight

This may seem like common sense, but many people do not have a covered driveway or area to work in, therefore they try to struggle through washing in harsh sunlight. If you live in a warm climate, this is even more difficult. It is nearly impossible to keep the vehicle wet enough to avoid spots while washing in direct sunlight. For those who do not have a shaded area, garage, or other covered work space that will allow you to wash during the day, I simply suggest washing at dawn or dusk when the sun is very low in the sky. You may even consider washing in the evening once the sun has set. This will make it much easier to take your time while washing and not have to worry about water spots and soap scum drying on your paint.

Be Aware of Hard Water Sources

Do not allow hard tap water to dry on the surface of your vehicle. Some people have a habit of simply rinsing off their vehicle with hose water or the pressure washer when it is not that dirty. This practice will surely lead to water spots if your local water source is rich with minerals. A great alternative is simply using Optimum No Rinse and doing a quick rinseless wash to remove the fine layer of dust, pollen, or dirt from your vehicle.

Likewise, water from sprinkler systems and other municipal water utilities should be avoided. Be aware of sprinkler heads around parking lots, water lines in parking garages, etc. and try your best to avoid parking near them. A little proactive planning can save you a lot of time, frustration, and potentially money in the end.

Use a Spotless Water System or Alternative Washing Methods

If the water in your area is particularly tough to work with, don’t worry, there are some options that will make your life easier.

The CR Spotless System is a de-ionizing system that removes all of the minerals from your water supply allowing you to rinse your vehicle with pure, spotless water. This system is perhaps the ultimate solution to hard water spots and is available in several sizes and form factors to fit your needs. Since the CR Spotless removes all of the minerals from the water, you will simply be able to rinse your vehicle and even allow the water to evaporate from the surface without the risk of spotting. This system is a fairly sizable investment, so for some people, it may not be a reasonable option.

If a spotless water system doesn’t fit your needs, I will again recommend rinseless washing. Using a product like Optimum No Rinse for routine washing greatly reduces the amount of time the water is on your vehicle, and therefore reduces the risk of the water evaporating and leaving spots behind. If you haven’t ever used a rinseless wash before, you simply wash one small section of the vehicle, and then immediately dry it. No hoses needed!

There are some great articles about ONR and the CR Spotless system on the Blog, so be sure to check them out for more info.

If you’ve got some water spots to deal with, be sure to stay tuned for my future article which will highlight various ways to deal with removing water spots and water spot etchings.

If you’re like me, you spend the day cleaning and making cars pretty. The last thing you want to do is clean more when you get home. Needless to say if you have a girlfriend, fiancé, or wife, you will without a doubt be cleaning something. Although the products we use are great at what we use them for (cars, tucks, boats, etc.), lets think of some ideas for other ways to use them and make the chores around the house a little easier.

CarPro Hydro2 – Use on your shower surround to keep it cleaner longer.

CarPro Iron-X – If you’re working on your car or somewhere around the house, and you have a seized bolt, don’t grab PB or WD. Spray some Iron-X on the threads and let it dwell. This will make bolt removal much easier.

What other uses do you have for your detailing products? Leave them in the comments below!

Being a car enthusiast can lead to the start of a detailing company and usually at a young age. Nothing is cooler than having a hobby you enjoy and getting paid for it. Being around cars all day is a path that most want, but they never get the opportunity. A detailing company can very easily put you in the moment of doing what you enjoy, but have you ever gave it a thought about where it will lead or where it will take you?

The Beginning

At the beginning of any detail operation we end up teaching ourselves the basics, which could take a decent amount of time to learn. After learning the basics we begin to hone in on our skills and practice them to perfection. Education in detailing will never end as it’s a business that is ever evolving and requires consistent motivation and a willingness to learn. Everybody will learn at a different rate of speed over the years and it takes just that, years, to be good and even more years to be great. For the first several years of detailing the objective is to understand the job and get good at it.

Working Towards

Meeting the customers expectations and understanding the craft will lead to a career that you never saw coming. Like myself and most young adults, it started because of the excitement and love of being your own boss and working on cars that most people admire and dream about. Now it’s a reality and the progress moves forward with a continued education to meet higher demands. Through meeting higher demands we also learned valuable business structure. We didn’t see that one coming when getting started either, but it’s needed to be the complete package. Speaking from my own experiences, I can tell you it takes years to get to this point. Once you are committed to the craft, being a detailing business begins. The thought of where you want to take your business? Most people don’t start with a plan, some do, but not many.

Goals

I’d be willing to bet that most detailers who have gone through trial and error would tell you, “I wish I would’ve known this or done that” from the beginning. Mostly because you really don’t think about it from the start, but imagine how much time you could have actually saved yourself. At this point you now have goals for you and your company, or at least a sense of direction. I would highly recommend considering your goals from the start (at least in a more in-depth thought process). Imagine if you spent several years detailing to find out that it’s not the path for you and you learned your heart now lies somewhere else. Becoming a parent or other life altering circumstances may be in your future, and could possibly play a heavy role in your detailing company. Establish who you are and where you would want to be for the later parts of your life and set goals within your company to better your future.

Future

Not all will make it to having a future with a detailing business. As I mentioned a bit ago, most detailers start young and grow into the craft or fall off and go a different direction. Once you’ve made it through the rough waters and you’re now neck deep and fully committed to a life of detailing, whats next? It’s a very good question to ask yourself. Very few will have built a detailing life with a retirement planned. This is where I get the title “Detailing In The Moment“.

If you’re just getting started or considering starting, it’s important to think what you want out of it. Long term goals come quicker with a detailing company as an extremely physical job on an aging body is without question. 2 years ago my wife came into the garage and asked me “are you ever going to get sick of this” as I was kneeling on one knee polishing a door panel of an Aston Martin. For the first time ever I put a lot of thought into what she just asked me. Will I ever be sick of this? Well… two years later with 10 plus years prior and still going strong I think I have answered the question, no I will not. But that doesn’t mean I still don’t think about it. For some reason I think that particular moment will always haunt me. I’m really glad she asked me because I think that moment really got me considering my detailing future as well the future of detailing. It’s a lifelong commitment to learning in a career in the car care field. Are you ready for that?

Being committed to the education process is the key to success in detailing. The more you put in the more you get out, being out there and just providing a service is not enough. In my opinion, it would be “doomed to fail” and not just the business, but also a lost feeling one may have in life when trying to figure out what you want at an older age. Education and surrounding yourself with like minded positive people will open doors you never thought about in a detailing career. Pioneers and educators are the reason it’s developed with remarkable strides leaving a good future for those willing.

End Results

The end result should be exactly what you wanted and what you built, it shouldn’t be a head struggle. It should make you feel happy and have a feeling of success. Ultimately you want a business that is profitable and able to provide you a future with an established foundation and returning customers. You want the knowledge that your customers deserve and to have a trusted brand that impacts those around you. You need a future for your family and health that is not a burden. Honestly, I’m still to young (35) to even say what the end results should be, however I’m quite pleased to see where it has taken myself (At the time I started, I had no family or direction). The course of a detailing career is truly inspired from the love of some unknown automotive passion. This passion will take you places and introduce you to people you never thought possible. Doors will open and provide you with so many options from the priceless knowledge gained along the way.

Note: For those who are seeing this as the first Wipe New article, I would recommend reading the Wipe New Trim Kit article first to get an idea of this product.

In this article, the focus will be on the Wipe New Headlight Restore kit.

Wipe New Headlight Restore is a kit designed specifically for restoring dull or faded headlights to a like-new condition through a very easy process. The product used is (at least to my knowledge) the same as the liquid in the general Wipe New Trim Restore Kit, but it comes with a few more tools to aid the process.

Included are a couple microfiber towels, a sanding block with 2 sides, a small towel pre-soaked with the WipeNew liquid inside a sealed package, a pair of rubber gloves and the instructions. This kit is what I was really looking forward to trying out and seeing if it really does work. As soon as I saw the sanding block in the kit, I immediately thought of the false advertising they did, especially with the generic Wipe New Kit. They say wipe on, wipe off and you get a brand new headlight. Well, I was going to find out.

The instructions actually say to use the sanding block if the headlights have a lot of yellow residue and are badly faded, but normally worn headlights can be treated without any sanding. The instructions say to test the headlight by making it wet… if you can see clearly through the lens when it’s wet, sanding isn’t a must. Only if it’s really bad, yellow and faded. I tried it both ways.

Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending how you look at it), one of the headlights on my Toyota Matrix is a bit worn. As you can see in the photo below, we actually did some polishing last year just to be able to show a before/after of our headlight restoration services. It has held up pretty well considering no sealant or protection was applied after the polishing.

I decided to tape the headlight so that some of the faded section remains after the Wipe New application for comparison…

I then sanded the area with both sides of their sanding block (one is a bit more abrasive than the other)…

The sanding process definitely improved some of the haze previously seen on the headlight…

After thoroughly drying, I applied the product to the section I just sanded…

I was fairly liberal with it, but didn’t need to be. The product quickly made the lens look clearer…

For testing purposes, I removed some of the tape and wanted to see just how easily this product works without any prep work. I simply applied some Wipe New to the middle section of the headlight, which was only washed with soap…

After removing the tape, I was left with this monstrosity of a headlight …

As you can easily tell, Wipe New definitely improved the look of the faded lens without any sanding, as they initially promised. I believe this will be perfect for testing purposes because I will be able to see how it looks after a while on the sanded part as well as the section with no prep at all.

Since the towel with the Wipe New liquid was extremely saturated and could probably be used on at least 3-4 pairs of headlights, I decided to do a very random test. I used it directly on top of my fairly dirty tail light lens. There was a lot of winter crud and dirt from daily driving, which I first cleaned off with one side of the Wipe New towel, then used a clean side to go over half the tail light to apply it evenly. I did this simply to see how the product can be used and how long it will last when applied in a very bad manner.

It definitely changed the look of the lens and made it look much better in terms of clarity and swirl marks on the surface.

So Does it Work?

As with the other Wipe New kit, I do believe this works for the most part as advertised. It’s a very strong chemical that bonds to the surface and due to it’s thickness and application fills quite a bit of haze and swirl marks. The one part that’s not true from their advertising is that it makes the lens like new and crystal clear. It definitely improves it, but you can easily see some of the deeper and some not so deep swirl marks.

I have plans of thoroughly sanding and polishing a different headlight and applying Wipe New to it as protection, just to see how well it works and how long it lasts. Not sure how good that will look compared to actual coatings on the market today, such as CarPro DLUX, but it’s worth a test in my opinion.

At the end of the day, as with the other Wipe New kit, I have to say Wipe New really does work. I have yet to see how long it lasts, but if you have faded headlights and simply want to improve the looks and visibility, while leaving good protection, I’d have to say it does the job it sets out to do. I will surely report back in a few weeks or months once I see how it behaves and looks in terms of durability. As of today, it has been on for about 1 week with no signs of failure, so at the very least it works to “pass inspections” as they repeatedly advertise .

Thanks again for reading and stay tuned for further experiments like this one.