3,300 and you're just starting up the Northern Peninsula, if memory serves me right, that will add another 1000 miles round trip, but they say it is the best part of the trip. Be even more carefull of the moose as they are plentiful up there. While in Gros Morn take a walk along the boardwalk to the inland fiord, it's pretty, at least it was when we were there. Enjoy th people and the views, you still have lots to see.

We left Springdale and traveled TCH 1 over the most mountainous terrain we’ve seen so far. It was misty and hazy so the scenery did not stand out. We arrived at Gros Morne RV Park which is just outside of Gros Morne National Park. There is much to do here as far as taking in sights but today we just figured out what to do for the next couple of days and will go to a talk tonight at the visitor Center on the Tablelands. Recall this area is where the tectonic plate theory was proven by matching rocks from the top of Gros Morne to rocks in Spain. I’ll learn more about it tonight I’m sure . Good news here is the campground wi-fi works well and that gives us the entertainment we like. There is still no TV and I’ve finished my book. Now I’ll be looking to buy the sequel.

Update…. We loaded ourselves up in the car at 7:15 and drove the mile or so to the Gros Morne Visitor Center, all set to watch the 8:00 pm slide show presentation on the Mantle..Tablelands,” geology for the non geologist.” They wanted us to purchase a National Park day pass to see this. They are $9.50 each person per day. It would only be good till noon tomorrow so wouldn’t even cover the price of admission for our drive through the park tomorrow. We passed, mumbling and grumbling about what a price gouge we feel it was. We would not have minded if it had been good for 24 hours but not just till noon. Maybe I’m just reeling from Terry’s summary of our costs.

No I’m not going to cut down on things we see, but there are some limits! This is the FIRST Visitor Center we’ve ever seen that charged an admission.

We will drive a loop of the park tomorrow and hopefully have nice weather for our photos of the fijords.

Betty: Are your 30 day expenses only since you have been in Canada or all the way from home. Seems like your numbers would be higher from home.

For our 30 days out from home, we are pretty close to your numbers and we haven't been extravagent eating out or with entertainment. You must remember however that our mileage is much worse than yours.

Today was one of those memory making traveling days. We toured 10 hours and witnessed spectacular scenery. I sit in the back seat of my chauffeur driven car, armed with the many tour guides and maps available. Last night I read Tim and Jan Lynch’s version of this portion of the trip and re-read Ardra’s accounts from their 06 visit to Newfoundland. (She did a very detailed account and I often refer to her statements.) I then read the history to my front seat passengers and holler when I want the driver to stop.

This section of Newfoundland is not like anything I’ve ever seen or can make a comparison to. Gros Morne National Park is an UNESCO World Heritage Site which means it was designated by the United Nations Education, Scientific, and Cultural Organization as a place of historical significance. It is because the rocks of Gros Morne provide some of the best illustrations of plate tectonics, one of the most important ideas in modern science, that it was given this designation in 1987. We visited the Discovery Center and paid our Canadian Park daily dues, happily today as I must have been in a better mood. We watched an excellent video of the park . The vistas of the mountains came into view as the haze of the morning cleared. The rocks and geologic features exposed within this place rank this place among the planets’ most significant natural areas. Fred Thomas would love to study geology here! After touring little fishing village of Trout River we had our picnic lunch overlooking Capelin Bay. We will never again rely on restaurants for lunch so we came prepared with our own. ! Our view was superb and we could enjoy the lovely day while walking along the boardwalk. We could only be sorry that we were too late for lobster season as it would be fun to watch the fishermen take their catch. Hundreds of lobster traps decorate the landscape and tell of recent activity. Lobster season closed here two weeks ago.

Tablelands Mountain boasts that it is an exposed part of the earths’ mantle. Terry and I hiked one hour at the base of this mountain and saw pitcher plants, waterfalls and the magnificent yellowish colored rock that was thrust upward 450 millions years or so ago. Not much grows on the barren rock . We were the only ones on this relatively easy trail and became engrossed in the scenery as well as the workout. Russ waited in the car for us. The drive then provided views of the waters inside these fjord type bays. I saw a whale surface, but the guys did not see him.

We returned to the motor home and signed up to stay another day here at the Gros Morne RV Park. We have wi-fi and have more to explore tomorrow. We then headed north up the coast for even more breathtaking scenery. We headed to Arches Rock which was once ocean bottom and is now a formation of arches on a pebble filled beach. The coast is all rocks and pebbles, no sand at all. We saw more fishing villages and staging areas. We saw the remain of a shipwreck from 1910.

We saw a moose, yes you read that right, as we were headed back to camp, Russ said, “ STOP, do a u-turn I saw something. “ Throwing all of the contents of the back seat on the floor, driver did a u-turn and we headed slowly back down the road to indeed see a large friendly tall moose in the scrub brush. The sun was right in the eye of the cameras but I saw him yes I did. What a day. We headed back to Lobster Cove where we viewed the lighthouse. For long time the community could not afford a lighthouse so the locals took turns burning one pint of oil per night in their windows as a warning. The lighthouse is beautiful and you can see why it was so badly needed at the size of the lovely harbor and the roughness of the rocks along the coast. I am pleasantly exhausted and still delighted by the natural wonders of our planet. I’ve found Newfoundland to be a very special place. I’m also remembering some exquisite carvings done at the local craft store. Oh boy….

Terry, a great moose photo. Glad you finally got one that showed more than the rear end!

Betty, we too gave up on trying to find lunch places. Most of the small towns simply don't have restaurants. One of our lunches was a the local gas station cum convenience store cum lunch counter. That was the entire shopping and eating in that town. We're spoiled.

While you're at Gros Morne I do hope you take the trail up to Lookout Point. Yes it is up but the view from the top is superb. Take a lunch and water, take your time - it's a boardwalk most of the way, and then enjoy your lunch at the beautiful top. They built a really nice place to sit, eat, and enjoy the view. And remember it's all down on the return! Even it you don't make it all the way up, the views improve as you go higher. Also, the Western Pond Boat tour is great and very informative. It takes a while to walk out to the boat dock so leave time. But that trail may be where we saw the largest number of moose.

Today Terry and I hiked 3 kilometers (45 minutes ) across bogs, through thick trees and ended up on the shores of Western Pond. We took the Western Pond boat ride which is said to be among the most popular of rides here in the park. The boat entered into what I thought was a fjord but I learned today that technically it is not as the water is fresh water and it has no access to the seas. The water is almost black in color and is some of the purest water on the planet. It has so few minerals in it that it won’t conduct electricity as learned by Canada Parks when they installed water sensing pumps.

Seems that about 8,000 years ago some land was disrupted and left this” pond “ with no access to the seas. The majestic walls are evidence of glacial action. The stark stone rose some 2100 feet above our heads and I still have a neck ache from watching the walls of this majestic canyon. There were numerous trickles of waters down the many feet into ribbons of mist that were waterfalls.

The highlight was walking home on the boardwalk we happened onto a grazing moose. I was so close that I had to back my telephoto out to get a shot. He seemed to not be too distressed by people around him. We were all snapping pictures. I would highly recommend this Western Pond boat tour if you are in Gros Morne, Newfoundland. He told us lots of facts and figures on the geology of this area but I had my eye on scenery and no way to take notes. I am pretty sunburned as it was a wonderfully sunny warm day but clouds did blow in and threaten our boat ride but no rain. We dined at the Ocean View Motel restaurant in Rocky Harbour and I told Terry we should have had a surcharge for linens as he had made such a mess of his tablecloth with his seafood chowder soup and lobster and partridge berry pie. We’ve decided to stay an extra day here!

What a gorgeous place !! And the moose looks like he's having a lovely lunch. BTW, how do you know it's a "he" moose?? Don't they have antlers? Inquiring minds, ya know. Anyway, I've got this place on my list of places to visit if (when !!) we ever get up to that area.

What a gorgeous place !! And the moose looks like he's having a lovely lunch. BTW, how do you know it's a "he" moose?? Don't they have antlers? Inquiring minds, ya know. Anyway, I've got this place on my list of places to visit if (when !!) we ever get up to that area.

Wendy,

It may have actually been a "she" moose. In the moment I don't check. Our goal is now to see a male moose with a full rack!

And the moose looks like he's having a lovely lunch. BTW, how do you know it's a "he" moose?? Don't they have antlers? Inquiring minds, ya know.

Wendy,

You're right, the males do have antlers. Antlers, not horns, so they are shed in the spring and are regrown in the fall. So this time of year it could be either but from the one picture I don't see any evidence of where antlers were. So I would guess that it's a cow or a very young bull.

It was a foggy and cool day so it was perfect for our planned visit to the Bonne Bay Aquarium Tour. The Bonne Bay Marine Institute is a Marine station out on Norris Point and affiliated with Memorial University. I’ve been to many marine aquariums and enjoy them but I was not expecting this one to be so very special! Russ had visited a few days earlier and told us it was worthwhile. The facility is only 5 years old and sits right on the shores of the Bonne Bay where two arms of water branch out having been caused by glacial action years ago. The unique thing is that the larger bay has been cut off from the ocean seas of St Lawrence and has specimens unique to here. The marine species found here are usually found much farther north but the water here stays very cold even in summer.

The mere $5 tour was the bargain of the trip. Our guide, Ann was an articulate, knowledgeable enthusiastic graduate student in Marine Biology from Ontario doing a summer internship here in Newfoundland. She showed us tanks of specimens brought in by divers or fishermen which are unique and rare. We also saw fish being studied by grad students. The most interesting one to me is a fish that has a special type of hormone like an antifreeze and it is able to stay in cold freezing waters due to this body chemistry. Studies are being done on it for situations where things need to be kept cold yet cannot freeze. She gave the example of organs being transported for transplant and vegetables. Just think one day this fish may have something to do with our fresh vegetables. It is a very ugly fish. She showed us sea urchins, sunfish, lobster, crabs, and a host of other names she threw out readily and I’ve already forgotten. Another interesting fact she reported was that the microscopic plant life in the ocean is essential to our planet in that it converts sunlight through photosynthesis to produce 75% of the earth’s oxygen. We also learned that here on the western side of Newfoundland 70% of the fishing industry profits come from snow crab, lobster and shrimp. There was a touch tank of marine specimens we could hold and touch . Terry and I kept our hands in our pockets. We toured gift shops this drizzly afternoon and I made a couple of fun purchases. Won’t tell you about them in case you are on my gift list! Tonight I am trying to talk my guys into joining me as I attend Pub Night at the local pub where “Anchor’s Aweigh” is playing. It starts at 9 pm so I wonder if we can stay up that late. It does not get dark until around 9:45 or so.

Tonight I am trying to talk my guys into joining me as I attend Pub Night at the local pub where “Anchor’s Aweigh” is playing. It starts at 9 pm so I wonder if we can stay up that late. It does not get dark until around 9:45 or so.

So having no takers I went by myself , only to learn they had sold out for the night. They didn't even have room for one. I am upset. I will not be buying their CD for sure. Nothing indicated anywere indicated a need for advance purchase. I have been here for 4 days and would have happily made advance pruchase had I known. Grumble , groan. grrrr.

So having no takers I went by myself , only to learn they had sold out for the night. They didn't even have room for one. I am pissed. I wll not be buying their CD for sure. Nothing indicated anywere indicated a need for advance purchase. I have been here for 4 days and would have happily made advance pruchase had I known. Grumble , groan. grrrr.

Much as I would have liked to blame him, I don't think he had a clue of the need for reservations. The big consulation is that Russ purchased a few of the local CD's and we are able to enjoy the music anyway. But I am still stung by not getting to see this group. On the other hand the fog is so thick here tonight we can't see our car beside us so maybe I was not meant to drive tonight!

Sat 7/19. At 6 AM the fog was unpenatrable but by 8 the sun had won. I like to get an earlier start so left while Terry was still brewing the coffee. The trip N, up the Viking trail closely follows the west coast and is gorgeous. Saw 3 moose(meece?) grazing by the road and happily all headed for the trees. The first one I came upon had a limp> Makes me wander if she had had a near miss with a car?

St Anthony is on the east side of the peninsula with a narrow SE facing bay. The town surrounds the bay and warrents a small coast guard ship. The Canadian coast guard favors a red hull with I white stripe similar the the USA.

When we leave here to head S along the same road, we will only go 70-80 miles. I think I will stop and unhook the car at least twice to rove up and down coast trying the capture the many photo-ops I spotted on the way N.

Here's a completely useless tidbit of info re the Canadian Coast Guard. When I grew up in Detroit in the 1950s we had a 30 foot sloop. Because of being boaters we learned that Canada, at that time, did not have a Coast Guard presence in the Great Lakes so the American Coast Guard was given "stop and arrest" permission to be the law and rescue folks up to the Canadian shoreline. We were even told that if it involved a "hot pursuit" case they could pursue detain and turn the fleeing folks over to the Canadian authorities. Actually all this meant was that jumping on the shore or a dock was useless. Some time after that Canada developed there own Coast Guard presence.

Please try to get back to see Anchors Aweigh - we stayed at the Gros Morne RV Campground Ltd and it was only a 10 minute stroll down to the Ocean View Motel/Restaurant and Show at the Anchor Bar - after a few beers, the walk back up the hill wasnt too bad either.

If you go, say hello to Alma for us (she works behind the bar and reception) - she still emails us the ocassional NF photo, even though she wouldn't remember us by now.

Ann-Marie saw two huge bull moose with full racks at the gas station just down street from the CG - she was up early at 7am though........so I guess you wont see any that are around at that time then

Are you going upto L'anse aux Meadows? - there is a wonderful boondocking spot for your 2 RVs there (on top of the hill and within walking distance of Norstead Viking Exhibit in one direction and the museum in the other). She saw another moose there too, but that was really early as well.

We left the Rocky Harbor, Gros Morne area this morning and filled up with our first fuel over $6 bucks a gallon. Diesel was $6.10 this morning! What are we to do? Moan and groan or go for it to the next destination. Onward we say!!!

We traveled along some of the most scenic vistas of the trip. We were along the coast and could see white caps breaking on the beaches. We could see meadows on the other side of us and lot and lots of forests with thin little trees. They say trees here don’t get very big as their feet are always in water. Indeed there are lots of marshes and we learned on our walk the other day that decomposition does not happen as there is so little oxygen in the soils to cause decay. Small gardens pop up along the road as villagers till any plot of fertile soil they can to get a crop. A telling sign of the winters here, are the numerous stacks of wood along the road. We are told people cut trees from the forest and stack them near the road and in winter they use their sleds to haul them to their homes. Newfoundland has the largest number of snow mobiles per capital than any other province. We saw lots of them sitting in yards of St Anthony. Some Towns have been given the Tidy Town award. Those town are well kept and have no visible junk yards. St Anthony did not win such an award.

Now the ROAD…This was the worst stretch of road we have encountered in our Canadian Travels. The whoop de do hilly road is filled with frost heaves. Fortunately they are well marked by the skid marks on the pavement. It is easy to see why people lose their tow equipment. Terry says he would NEVER drive on this road at night towing a vehicle as then the heaves would not be visible. It really slowed us down today, All that being said the road was still better than most of Mexico roads. Triple Falls is a large campground and we are in among the trees tonight with only 15 amp service as a caravan is in and they got all the good sites. They leave in the morning and we may move to a better site or we may just stay here.

We have a 5 mile drive into town to catch a wireless internet signal at the Town Hall. Russ traveled in front of us today as he rises much earlier than we do and he saw moose along the way. We did not. We took a brief drive through St Anthony and viewed the light house and fishing harbor. We had a pizza tonight in a local restaurant (the first in along long time) and spoke with a few members of the Fantasy caravan. We know the good spots to visit tomorrow.

Most of our destinations on today’s driving tourist day, were not in any of the guides, brochures or logs of fellow travelers. We spoke to our campground neighbors last evening who made the recommended route today. And what a day it was! To recap before I start, we saw one iceberg, one moose, 4 osprey (2 parents and 2 babies high in a nest) , the most northerly inhabited community in Newfoundland, several ancient rocky fossil filled ledges, rocky oceanfront and a light house in Harbour Cove dating back to some early date I can’t recall. We did not see any cell towers so had no phone service at all today which is a first for our entire Canadian travels. We are in a really really remote and beautiful section of the world.

We could see Labrador across the Straits of Bell Island today. The sky was a perfect clear blue for most of the day and that always enhances our spirits. We started out with a packed lunch ( of course) and headed out to Cape Norman to find Cooks Harbor, Wild Bight and Boat Harbor. These little villages have no more than a few hundred residents and we learned many of them spend the winter inland after the fishing season ends. The plants here are unique in that they must adapt to the shortest, coolest summer season found in NL, with the windiest and the wettest soil. Plants hunker down low to the ground and the few trees huddle together and stay low. Despite this, the locals find fertile grounds and till wonderful gardens along the road with potatoes and turnips as their main crop for their root cellars in the winters. I’ll show you some of the hundreds of woodpiles along the way. Wood is cut in winter and allowed to dry out in the summer. In the fall it is hauled closer to home for those cold winter days and wood burning stove.

Once out on Cooks Harbour on HWY 436 we photographed the lighthouse and crawled down the levels of rocks to view the hidden fossils in them. Terry found what he thought to be a fish and Russ found what he thought to be a worm. We had our picnic lunch in the car overlooking the sea due to the wind and the big black flies. Courtesy of a fly, (I think) I have a welt the size of a sand dollar on my arm and it itches like crazy but I do not complain as this rustic scenery is some of the best I’ve ever seen in the world. Oh wait did I tell you that yesterday? It just keeps getting better up here. While up at this vantage point Terry says, “ There’s an Iceberg.” I said, “No I think it is a cruise ship.” Russ’ powerful binoculars confirm it as an iceberg. This is our 7th sighting of a berg so far. It was way off on the horizon and not possible for a good photo but made us excited all the same.

We followed the bay back around to Cape Onion and Ships Cove. Cape Onion boasts of being the most northerly community, geographically on the Island of Newfoundland. In Ship Cove we saw the handicrafts of a local who has created an exquisite miniature village. We stopped the car at every angle to get a good vantage point of the fishing villages. At one point I holler, ”Moose at 10 o’clock!” Sure enough out on the meadow is a moose grazing. Terry can see through his powerful telephoto that he is a male with the early start of antlers. It’s a fuzzy photo blown up that many times but I saw him first! I had been practicing saying this location for miles and indeed days. Thank you to Fred Thomas for teaching me the directions. It worked. In Raleigh we stopped so Russ and I could visit Taylor’s Crafts. This man carves beautiful things from soapstone, Talc, whale bone , moose bone, moose antlers and a variety of other stones. He has participated in the Olympic Carving events. His stuff is NOT the cheaply made in China tourist stuff. We shall think overnight about some of his creations. He was very good. I think his shop was the only business in Raleigh. There may have been a “Supermarket, gas bar.”

Burnt Cape Ecological Reserve is along the way but we did not go in to the Pistolet Bay Provincial Park for a guided tour. The book says this place has some of the world’s most cherished and botanical wonders. Rare plants are found here nestled among the rugged stone, mossy mounds and low shrubbery. Lots of limestone here.

Terry is fixing photos and I am making ready for our trip into the library parking lot in St Anthony where we can send our email. From there we will attend a Viking feast. This will be covered in the journal tomorrow.