47 ON AND OFF THE AVENUE C ONTINUING last week's d1s- sertation on the new l1lanifestations of . . gen1us 1n resort clothes, we'}] pick up where we left off- with Saks-Fifth A. ve- nue. High style romps here the year round, but it never smiles quite as bright- ly as at the time when the customers emit those first mournful sneezes that justify a trip South. Currently, they brag at this shop about sarong-like things in printed brown-and-black cottons. Skirts of batik cotton have deep pleats below the waist- line and are caught in tight at the ankle; you're suppused to go barefoot in these, though nothing is said about carry- ing baskets on your head. Sonle have nlatching short-sleeved tops which you knot between the breasts; for others, there are prim, round-necked jackets of white drill, like a houseboy's. Very snlart women would look wonderful in either version. There are also a nunlber of crisp white play dresses, severa] of them in waffle piqué with blurred, painted designs on the skirts. In general, they have snug bodice tops descending to the hipbone (I told you last week that's where waistlines are, and I, for one, am grateful) and swing out, wide and cir- cular, from there. -\ll have a horsehair band in the hem of the skirt to make its fling more pronounced and are so short that panties to match acconlpany them. These are the type of thing that small- er, hippy women will head for-and shouldn't. .i-\mong the traditional clothes, Saks has beautiful gabardine offerings in all kinds of dusty pinks and yeIlows and baby blues, but by far the smartest is in a l1lasculine gray. A topcoat with three buttons, in the classic male style, could not be hettered for a woman who loves tailored things. \Vell-cut gray wool gabardine slacks can be worn with hand- knit, short-sleeved sweater tops which are heavily ribbed and short enough to leave the waistline bare. There are also simple shirtwaist dresses of gabardine with pigskin belts and brown shell but- tons, and, naturally, there are jackets. --\. straight, hip-length one with a box- pleated back is made of a soft polo- cloth type of wool in bright color com- hinations, like green and white. Then there are two of the best-looking coats to wear over white dresses you'll ever . FEMININE F A5HION5 see One is a shaggy, single-breasted reefer sort of thíng with wide, rounded lapels; the other, of polo cloth, has a yoke which extends over the tips of the shoulders and sports brass buttons in clusters down the front. "'Then it comes to dresses, my favor- ite embodies many ne\vish characteristics. It's Inade of a clean silk print that is all vertical stripes of copenhagen blue and white (lots of it) with little white stars on the blue. The skirt is softly shirred and, it being a season when low V necks are again the rage, this one's neck is cut an the way to the waist; with it goes a brassière of the same material. The top is so full that you can clip it modestly closed with ease, and even if you don't, the brassière and the depth of the V show only when you move about. I can honestly believe that even the less extreme customers are mad about the thing-this sort of naughtiness can be so attractive. Here, too, you'll find inserts of color used to call attention to the sides of a dress; one of white sh lrk, for 1n- stance, with brown shell buttons, has cocoa-shaded panels extending from un- der the arms right down to the hem. They, like everybody else, love such things as a white sharkskin dress with a savage sapphire-blue arrow down its hodice. i\.s always, plain white COnles off with high honors, especially in a short-skirted tennis or play dress made of piqué cloqué, which has a raised, pad- ded pattern, and trimmed with saw- toothed edges on the neck and sleeves. For laughs: A big, bundly beach robe of plushy fabric that looks like ermine, and lined with terry cloth; people are buy- ing it madly, despite the fact that they are told it's not washahle. Also, hlack velveteen tap-dancer shorts accompanied by a ruffled white silk blouse with pearl buttons. Mercy! Much hullabaloo has gone on about the use of rhinestones on evening clothes in the Salon Moderne here, and I had thought that, even though Sophie Ginl- bel did do it, I'd still consider it bold It is no such thing. 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