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Stoke by Proxy

I took this photo yesterday at Woolacombe in a lull between the overhead sets. The grey calm between frantically chaotic moments or swooshes of good fortune. I haven't got enough calm in my life at the moment or enough time to surf in these shorter daylight seasons.

I did have a wonderful surf on Saturday. Three of us went out with two boards I'd made. It was my first surf on the Twinzer and I was really happy to find it felt really good. Balanced, fast and with nice turns. The best moments were seeing friends cut out of waves with grins on their faces. Seeing someone mine some good stoke on a board that you've made is wonderful stoke by proxy. Like watching your child getting their first waves.