Tuesday, May 31, 2011

During the summer months one of the nicest simple wines to break out is Bardolino Chiaretto, an eminently drinkable rosè made from the same varietals -- Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara -- also used to make Bardolino, which is red.

Some of the region's winemakers also make a sparkling version of Bardolino Chiaretto, Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante. Which can be even nicer.

The 2010 vintage was relatively cool and wet, which makes for lively acidities, and the 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante, lightly chilled, will be quite nice at cookouts or picnics, and also be a pleasant vino a tutto pasto, (to be drunk throughout the meal) that will work quite well with lighter summer dishes, including pasta salads, stuffed vegetables, and meat dishes served cool.

The wines, tasted on March 5 2011, in the order listed in the Banco D'Assaggio Catalog:

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010Pale salmon pink with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with wild strawberries and some minty herbal notes laced with sweetness of strawberry jam. Quite fresh. On the palate it's lively, with bright mineral strawberry fruit supported by both sparkle and by some mineral acidity, and flows into a long peppery finish with some pungency from the sparkle. Quite pleasant in a fresh lively key and will work very well with simple pasta dishes or risotti -- vegetable based, with fish -- and will also be nice wi5th creamy main courses, while one could push it into service with pizza too. In short, versatile, and one could also drink it lightly chilled far from the table. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Cà BotturaSpumante Cà Bottura 2010Pale rose with brilliant pink reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly fresh, and rather mineral, with some berry fruit and some bitterness with slight sweetish accents and hints of bramble. On the palate it's fairly bright, with bitter brambly berry fruit supported by minerality and sparkle that flow into a clean rather bitter brambly finish. It's fairly direct, and more of a food wine than a wine to drink far from the table.1 star

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale onionskin salmon with fine white perlage that's quite persistent. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly sparkle and some minerality laced with slight pungency and hints of wet bread. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich bh fruit that has slight blackberry accents and is supported by both sparkle and berry fruit acidity, and flows into a fresh sour finish that gains depth from peppery sparkle. The nose is a little behind at present, but it's pleasant in a sunny sort of way and will work nicely as an aperitif, or with creamy first course dishes, and could also be pleasant at table with creamy main course dishes. Friendly, and this is what Chiaretto is all about. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale rose pink with fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and strawberry fruit supported by slight sweetness and slight menthol. Fresh. On the palate it revolves more around minerality and savoriness than fruit, with considerable sea salt and underlying bitter accents that flow into a long bitter finish that gains brightness from sparkle. It's up front, will work nicely as an aperitif and will also work well with creamy dishes, both first course and main, and will go quickly.1 star

BergaminiBergamini Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale rose pink with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky cherry and sour raspberry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush pungency and brambly minerality. On the palate it's quite mineral, with savory brambly accents and peppery sparkle supporting it, and it flows into a clean mineral finish that gains depth from peppery sparkle notes. It's pleasant in a direct key, and will work well as an aperitif or with simple creamy dishes; expect it to go quickly.1 star

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale salmon pink with fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly bright, with jammy berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with greenish mineral cherry fruit supported by savory notes and sparkle, and flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. It will work nicely as an aperitif, and also has enough force in a fairly direct key, to work well with lake fish or similar. It will go quickly.1 star

Natale Castellani Bardolino Chiaretto SpumanteThis is a Metodo Classico.Pale onionskin with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with jammy cherry raspberry fruit that has some blackberry sweetness and slight savory acidity that adds grace. Pleasant to sniff., and as it opens there are also savory greenish accents. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and by pepperiness from the sparkle, which flows into a clean bright raspberry finish with some underlying bitter mineral accents. Graceful, and distinct from the rest of the field; it's a wine that will work quite nicely as an aperitif, or with richer creamier dishes, or lake fish, and will also be nice with friends far from the table.88-90

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010 Pale salmon pink with brassy salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively wild strawberries supported by some vegetal notes and slight savoriness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour strawberry raspberry fruit with lively peppery accents from the sparkle, with provides considerable fullness, and by lively berry fruit acidity with some savory minerality that flows into a clean bright finish that has some mineral accents and fades into sea salt. Quite pleasant, and quite versatile; it will work well from aperitif though creamy second course dishes. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.2 stars

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a direct key, with berry fruit supported by some pungency and slight jammy accents; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich jammy fruit supported by slight sweetness and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's up front, and quite direct, and will work nicely with an aperitif or with creamy dishes.1 star

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010Salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense slightly greenish minerality supported by some berry fruit and cut flowers with some underlying dusky bitterness. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively savory raspberry cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with sour berry fruit underpinning and peppery notes from the sparkle. It will be quite versatile, and though rather direct will go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.2 stars

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale almost onionskin pink with fine white perlage and brilliant onionskin reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly minerality and a degree of pungent cut flours with some savory accents as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense berry fruit that has some sweetish accents and is supported by sparkle and bitter undertones that flow into a fairly long bitter finish It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with creamy dishes.1 star

Roeno Bardolino Chiaretto Matì Rosè 2010Pale onionskin pink with brilliant reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly mineral with some brambly accents and slight brambly fruit that is supported by some mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by scrappy brambly accents and bitter minerality that flows into a fairly bitter finish that gains depth from minerality. It's pleasant in a rather mineral key, and will be quite versatile at the table.2 stars

La PrebendaLa Prebenda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly more vegetal and brambly than many, with some red berry fruit and sea salt as well. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some bitterness, while there is also some sour berry fruit acidity, and it flows into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with some peppery notes. It's fairly direct, but has a scrappy liveliness to it, and will be quite nice with rich foods, including fried fish. It grew on me.2 stars

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a direct key, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish pungent accents and hints of mentholated sweetness. On the palate it's decidedly sweet by comparison with the rest of the field, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit minerality that gains depth from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long rather sweet finish with some bitter underpinning as well. It's more direct than some, and there is the sweetness, which will make it more of a wine to drink as an aperitif than with the meal, I think.1 star

San Zeno Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with cut flowers and fairly intense minerality mingled with some savory notes as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with powerful mineral laced sour cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and sparkle, which flow into a fairly long savory finish with lasting bitterness and sparkle. Pleasant in a direct key and will be versatile, working well with a variety of foods, from antipasti through fried fish or fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Valletti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale onionskin pink with brilliant almost brassy reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some bitter pungency that brings wet leaves to mind. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant sour berry fruit supported by minerality and berry fruit acidity, and by peppery accents from the sparkle, which flow into a clean bright mineral finish with cherry raspberry underpinning with slight sweetness that provides a bit of roundness. It's graceful in a bright key, and will be quite versatile at table, and because of the sweetness that underpins it. Will also be nice with friends far from the table when you want a wine to open and drink without making it the center of attention.2 stars

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is pungent, with slightly bitter brambly accents that are clearly youth, and as they blow away jammy berry fruit with fairly bright berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bright mineral laced sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that carries into a long mineral finish that gains depth from the sparkle, and slight underlying bitterness. It's pleasant in a scrappy tomboyish key, and because of its acidity will work well with a variety of dishes, including the fried meats or fish that are so nice on a hot day. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.2 stars

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.