I just won a whole group of coaches on eBay, hopefully the condition is as stated. 4022, 4023, 4024, 4026, 4027, 4029 and 4052.

I am thinking about adding lighting. If I wanted to be a "purist" I would try to find the Marklin kits that match the years of production for these coaches . Does anyone know the correct part numbers for these? Also, if I wanted to use a newer kit (analog operation), are there any semi-modern or current kits that would fit?

I just won a whole group of coaches on eBay, hopefully the condition is as stated. 4022, 4023, 4024, 4026, 4027, 4029 and 4052.

I am thinking about adding lighting. If I wanted to be a "purist" I would try to find the Marklin kits that match the years of production for these coaches . Does anyone know the correct part numbers for these? Also, if I wanted to use a newer kit (analog operation), are there any semi-modern or current kits that would fit?

John - thank you! I have seen Trainaidsa before, but never knew if anyone used them. I do like that they have warm white LEDs, which suites my taste a lot better. I am a lot more comfortable placing an order with them based on your positive experience.

Friction is going to be an issue, but I'm not sure I'll run them all at the same time...maybe I could make sub-consists of 2-3 cars, then have my sliders setup this way. I am sure the baggage car would come most of the time, a good power point.

Smurfillo - 7320 says it's for the TEE coaches...and long distance coahcs such as 4085, 4087, 4049, 4054, 4064, based on the 1974 catalog. Since all the coaches are about the same size, it would probably fit...but do you know for sure?

I had a quick look in some old catalogs (late 1960-ies and early 1970-ies) and there they listed 7077 and 7198 as the approriate interior lighting kits for all these coaches.

In order for 7320 to fit there is a need that the halfway separation wall and the "cross beams" joining the outer walls have a relatively large canal about 15 mm at the top and somewhat less at the bottom and it is around 10 mm deep that you would see after lifting the roof off the coaches.

I had a quick look in some old catalogs (late 1960-ies and early 1970-ies) and there they listed 7077 and 7198 as the approriate interior lighting kits for all these coaches.

In order for 7320 to fit there is a need that the halfway separation wall and the "cross beams" joining the outer walls have a relatively large canal about 15 mm at the top and somewhat less at the bottom and it is around 10 mm deep that you would see after lifting the roof off the coaches.

I too have about 10 passenger cars. They all have the still available 7077 and 7198 lighting kits. Some may take the 7320 as well. All are still available from Märklin.I am presently using tiny connectors to allow the ability to run wire between cars but be able to disconnect them. I will let you know what works as I am still in the process of trying it out. There are two methods that I am trying out.

John. Thanks so much for the information on LEDS that fit in the same sockets! Current consumption is a real concern! I will check them out and perhaps order them for spares.

I finished the addition of wire running throught the Metal Passenger cars to cut down on center pick-ups. It works well and I would shorten up the leaders and connectors abit. I will also order smaller connectors to make it even more descrete.Now I can move my cars around with relative ease.

another option is to reduce the friction of 8 sliders (incl. loco) connect a wire right through the train, disadvantage: they all have to stay together.

good Luck

John

Hi everybody, i saw this topic and ordered some leds from trainaidsa, they arrived and they work fine,but the flickering is really bad, enough to cause you seizures , is there a way to avoid it? i tried some solutions with a bridge rectifier and or capacitor but it didnt work, can it be done? they porblem is the common ground i think...thanks

German trains era I-II, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD

another option is to reduce the friction of 8 sliders (incl. loco) connect a wire right through the train, disadvantage: they all have to stay together.

good Luck

John

Hi everybody, i saw this topic and ordered some leds from trainaidsa, they arrived and they work fine,but the flickering is really bad, enough to cause you seizures , is there a way to avoid it? i tried some solutions with a bridge rectifier and or capacitor but it didnt work, can it be done? they porblem is the common ground i think...thanks

I'm pretty sure you are right. So what you need to do is to add (solder) a brown cable to the 7077s, insulate the 7077s from the tinplate of the coaches and run both the yellow and brown cables to the bridge rectifier. The input to the bridge rectifier could be a yellow cable from the 7198 and a ground cable suitably connected to the tinplate of the coaches. (Your set-up with a bridge rectifier and common ground actually means that you will not get full wave rectified current, only half wave rectification and that could be worse compared to running on track current).

Done, i have installed one insulated 7077 and of course it works ok, not much work really to do the insulation..at the end it has turned to be far more "elegant" since i ordered also from trainaidsa some accw feeders, i have planned to mount four 7077 for each car to have more even lightning. Now to work and in the afternoon i think i will complete at least one car and take some shots to show the results.

German trains era I-II, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD

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