take a look at the neck part where the yoke is supposed to be clamped. (dirt or left over plastic) Try and align it with where it originally was. if not, pushing it as far forward (towards tube body) as you can. It should have wedges or other stoppers to keep it aligned.

I tried hot glue one time, but the neck area gets far too hot and the glue gets soft and the yoke shifts.

I removed the hot glue and used a combonation of hot glue and clear "silicone II" i think it's for bathrooms and other whatnots. haven't had any problems yet, but it couldn't hurt to maybe use an automotive type silicone, it's made for higher temps.

not only the convergence, but check the rotation...make sure it's nice and straight, if not you'll need to rotate the yoke slightly.

I got everything lined up pretty good and held in place with a small amount of hot glue, then used the silicone to hold it all together.

yeah, just tack it in place with a bit of hot glue and then check your alignment. That way, if it's not quite right you can still pull it off and try again.

once everything is set in place goop it up with some silicone. I wouldn't "fill" the area i would place 4 larger dollops up next to the body to help support the bell portion of the yoke. (top bottom left right) then some more on the tube neck where the yoke and the neck meet to fill in between the old yoke clamp and where parts left over on the yoke are. That should keep things from moving around on you once it's set.

keep the monitor off for at least 24 hours to make sure the silicone is cured...you don't want the hot glue holding things together to soften and the yoke to droop before the silicone has a chance to set.

The reason I say not to fill the area, is you still want some air to flow around the yoke to help cool it. This yoke/tube has a real problem with heat which is why some of them went to a bonded yoke.

Need some clarification... by the plastic piece are you refering the the white plastic at the outside extermes of the yoke? When you saying push-up on the yoke, do you mean on the whole yoke or on the area where the copper windings are?I have seen many Kortek monitors where the epoxy that bonds the black ferrrite core (that has the copper windings on) has become so hot that it has dried up and broken loose and fallen off. Your yoke looks like the exact one they used!Do not use hot melt if it is on the ferrite core/ copper windings.. it will melt away. Try to find high temp epoxy or even muffler cement in that case. Tilt the iron core up, (for best convergence) hold them in place with popsicle sticks. Apply the epoxy to the area, but do not seal the popsicle stick shims in place. Once dry remove the shims and add epoxy where they were.

Thanks for the link Ken. Gives me confidence in making the attempt. Never though I'd get this deep into the hobby, but it sure is fun learning new things.

lilshawn,

What do you think about what they did here:

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FIX: what I have been doing is removing the monitor, and laying it face down on a piece of foam. I then reposition the yoke back as close as I can to where it was originally. Then I goop the hell out of where it is broken with hot glue. Or silicone sealant might be a better choice. I see no other solution other than replacing the entire yoke.

I'm thinking that I could position and tack down the yoke at the four adjuster feet with the hot glue and then put it on its face and silicon glue it up. Then let it cure face-down for a few days.

I won't glue around the whole yoke like you suggested below. Four blobs to support the yoke at the bell and some to support the yoke at the neck leaving room for airflow.

I've never used hot glue before, should I use it to do four blobs (for the tacks) at the bell instead of on top of the adjuster feet?

i'd do all the hot gluing in the cabinet (or out if your cords will reach) That way you can power it up and check the alignment and whatnot before you commit to silicone. I'd hot glue on the side of maybe 2 of the adjuster feet (opposite sides) but do it on the edges (so a layer of hot glue isn't under the feet) and check the alignment. if it's good, pull the tube and silicone it as shown on the neck plus your gobs on the bell.

that way gravity isn't working against you. Silicone has a nasty habit of running away on you.

24hrs should be fine for cure, check your silicone tube for actual cure times, it may be more or less. the picture tube will be fine...just be sure nobody is going to trip over it or kick it. Cordon off an area if you have to. If the neck gets knocked off (very thin glass) it's garbage.

A friend came over and I was explaining the yoke problem and what I have to do to fix it.

A few beers later and it went from a discussion to a demonstration.

I fired the monitor and PC up, loaded up the test pattern, and pushed the joke back into position. Surprisingly it stayed up against the tube without any glue.

The center convergence was off, so I boldly grabbed the screwdriver and stuck it in the focus adjuster on the flyback and turned it a little bit and the center cleared up!

It seems that the yoke and everything is fine. All I need to worry about is gluing the yoke back on straight so that the picture does not lean.

So I positioned the yoke using the test pattern, and hot glued to top two adjuster feet to the tube. Removed the entire chassis and put the tube on its face. I used some strips of balsa to brace the yoke in place as suggested by Rickn above. Then I silicone glued the neck clamp like in the above picture and put a blob of glue on the four adjuster feet. It is drying now.