PupLife Dog Blog

According to the Canine Hydrotherapy Association, extensive work in human physiotherapy has demonstrated that a suitably monitored course of hydrotherapy acts similarly in canines by encouraging a full range of joint motion in reduced weight conditions, thus improving muscle tone and promoting tendon repair without imposing undue stress on damaged tissues and improving cardiovascular stamina.

It has long been established that hydrotherapy is beneficial in a comprehensive recovery program for certain injuries in the veterinary field including arthritis, hip dysplasia and other degenerative joint diseases. Until recently the use of hydrotherapy in animals was restricted to performance horses and racing greyhounds.

However, hydrotherapy can be very beneficial for our companion animals in many ways. From rehabilitation after surgery or an accident to the treatment of an acute or chronic condition as well as the prevention of injury for dogs that participate in competitive sports. While hydrotherapy is low-impact, the water creates resistance that greatly intensifies a work out at both a cardiovascular and musculoskeletal level. Hydrotherapy also engages additional muscles and joints beyond those used for your pet’s daily walks and can also increase normal range of motion.

Trained hydrotherapists always take a full patient history before any treatment and talk with you before before each hydrotherapy session so they can determine if adjusting speed, duration and water height is appropriate according to your pet’s progress.

If you live in the Chicagoland Metro area, you will find an excellent hydrotherapy center at Integrative Pet Care. To find a rehabilitation specialist in your area visit The Canine and Equine Rehabilitation Gateway.

Question: How can I get my Chihuahua to stop biting and barking inappropriately (especially around food)? I have had this little dog since he was 8 weeks old, but I do not know how to break him of these two nasty habits. He has had tons of doggie training, but we’re still having issues! Please help. We’re desperate! – “Maximillion1”, via email

Answer: Don’t panic! Biting and barking are often two problematic behaviors that small dogs may develop. To begin, you were correct in using the word “habit” when describing your dog’s behavior. When a dog is allowed to consistently rehearse any behavior, it may turn into a habit. This is extremely important to recognize in order to develop an effective training strategy. As you know, habits are hard to break. Take smoking, for example. It can take several months or even years to stop smoking, so you should not be discouraged if your dog doesn’t change overnight.

The first step in addressing your Chihuahua’s problems is to manage him. This means you must prevent him from rehearsing the unwanted behaviors. Find the triggers that make your dog either bark or bite (we already know that food is a trigger). Once the triggers are identified it will be easier for you to prevent them and use them to your advantage when training. You will also be able to better predict his bark or bite and either stop or re-direct him to a more appropriate response.

We become more effective in dealing with our dogs when we think about what we want them to do instead of investing so much energy in trying to teach them what not to do. Because dog training is interconnected, having a prior training history with your dog will aid the process. Think about what you want your dog to do (instead of biting or baking) and begin training your dog to perform that behavior. Remember that it will take a lot of work and guidance to develop a new habit that is as self-reinforcing as the old one. Develop a plan of action so that you know what to ask your dog to do and so your dog can learn what is expected of him.

Here is a suggested action plan for resource guarding (barking/biting in the presence of food):

1. Manage the situation to prevent further rehearsal.2. Identify all the triggers.3. Make your dog feel comfortable having you around his food.

Tether your dog next to an empty food bowl.

As he beings to show interest in the bowl walk toward him (approach him from the side because this is less threatening) and as soon as he looks at you toss a few treats and back up. Repeat this a few times each day and gradually decrease the distance as his comfort zone increases.

Your dog is learning that there is no need to “protect” his food in your presence. Essentially your dog is learning to look up at you (instead of barking/biting) and he is beginning to anticipate a treat each time you approach. 4. Teach your dog a new habit such as “trade” or “leave it” as well.

The same idea applies to barking. Once you have identified what makes your dog bark teach him to redirect his behavior from barking to something more appropriate. For example, if your dog has previously learned “leave it” you can have him relinquish on cue. Every time he sees or hears the trigger that starts him barking, cue your dog “leave it”. As soon as he responds to you, reward him with lots and lots of treats. Eventually your dog will learn that it’s more reinforcing to turn away and look at you rather than bark at something else. Remember that it takes time to develop a new habit so you will need to rehearse these new skills and reward your dog consistently for good behavior.

Don’t forget that your dog has had a lot of time to rehearse unwanted behaviors like biting and barking so always reinforce him when he performs. You can help guide your dog toward success by using management tools including your leash and crate when necessary. These tools can help you prevent your dog from rehearsing unwanted behaviors and so that you can teach him more appropriate ones. Bottom line, when committing to solve any problematic behavior do it with a positive attitude and lots of patience.

Judit Arroyo works in the day training program at Call of the Wild School for Dogs, Chicago’s premier dog training facility. She began her training career at age 17 and has developed a specialized interest in working with defensive dogs. Judit is active in competitive obedience and agility sports as well as Therapy Dogs International certification. Additionally, she is an AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluator.

Ms. Arroyo has a BA from DePaul University and is active in community outreach programs including Chicago Canine Rescue (CCR), New Leash on Life (NLOL) and has led fundraising efforts for Cook County Animal Care & Control. Judit serves as a Program Leader for Sit Stay Read! and is currently developing their dog training program.

Whether you’re in the backyard or at an off-leash dog park, a reliable recall is one of the most important behaviors you can teach your dog.

Teaching the Recall:To begin you’ll need a Leash and Collar for your dog, a long line leash (15 feet or more) and lots of Dog Treats.

Start with your dog on a six foot leash. Say your dog’s name, then your recall cue (”Come”, “Here” or whatever you’re comfortable with) and begin moving backwards. When your dog moves toward you, say “Yes!” and reward her with lots of treats. Repeat this for about 10 minutes and take a break.

You can begin adding some distractions to the exercise. With your dog on a long line, wait until she is distracted then call her name and move backwards. If your dog does not turn and move toward you gently remind her with the long line. Always reinforce the correct response.

If you have a partner you can play the recall game. With your dog on a long line, stand about 20 feet away from your partner. Take turns calling your dog and rewarding her when she comes. If she needs help, pick up the end of the long line to remind her.

Proofing the RecallProfessional dog trainers use the term “proofing” to describe ways in which we can test our dog’s commitment to a behavior. For instance, my dog may be able to come when called in the backyard, but if we are out at the dog park she has a hard time leaving her doggy friends and coming to me. As you work with your dog on particular behaviors you’ll begin to notice ways in which to proof her. The most common ways to proof are distance, distraction and duration.

Practice the recall in a variety of locations always with your dog on leash or on a long line. Incorporate distance into your training routine. It’s easy with a long line because you can call your dog from 5 feet away, 10 feet away and even 20 feet away. The more distance between you and your dog, the harder it will be for her to respond.

Utilize distractions in your training. I like to proof my dog’s recall by calling her off other dogs, squirrels, tennis balls and food on the floor. Remember to use your leash or long line. You can also enlist the help of a family member or friend to distract your dog and provide a means by which to proof her.

Tips for Refining the RecallWhile you are in the process of teaching the recall, be sure not to dilute your cue system. This means that until your dog understands the recall, never call her unless you can back up your cue (i.e. with your long line or leash). Often times we bombard our dogs with verbal cues that they don’t really understand. You can become a more effective trainer by using management tools in your training sessions AND in your everyday life. For instance, always let your dog out in the backyard on a long line so that when you call her you know she’ll come!

Never call your dog for something unpleasant or scary. For example, when leaving the dog park call your dog, put her leash on and allow her to play with her favorite toy for several minutes before going home. Never punish your dog for not coming when called – use your management tools to ensure your dog is successful.

Play hide & seek with your dog. This is especially good for puppies because they are used to following Mama Dog. By playing hide & seek you encourage your dog to keep her eye on you instead of the other way around.

Train in a safe spot. Work in a fenced area like a park or even a tennis court. Always work with a leash or long line. And, most importantly: Practice! Practice! Practice!

“Get Back” is a great behavior to teach your dog. Its helpful going in and out of doorways, moving through crowds, and especially before crossing the street.

To start you will need lots of dog treats and a leash for your dog. Begin with your dog on leash sitting at your left side in heel position. Take a few steps forward with your dog and with a treat in your left hand show it to your dog and move your hand behind your left leg. When your dog follows the treat and is positioned behind you say “Yes!” or indicate with your clicker and reinforce your dog with the treat.

Repeat this exercise several times and then introduce the verbal cue “Get Back”. Up to now the dog has understood to follow the motion of your hand so that he gets a treat when he is behind you. To successfully transition to the verbal cue you’ll need to present a very clear pattern to your dog. It should look like this: Say the cue “Get Back”, allow a brief pause, use your hand signal, when your dog responds indicate with Yes! or a click and give your dog a treat.

As you work to refine this behavior, slowly phase out your hand signal. Some dogs will catch on very quickly, others may need a little more time. Be sure go at your dog’s pace and not your own!

I find that I use the “Get Back” cue several times a day. It’s especially handy if I’ve got grocery bags in one hand and keys in the other and me and the dogs are all trying to get in the house. I say “Get Back” and the dogs jump behind me. Then I can get in the house without a major catastrophe!

It’s no secret that Americans are gaining weight at an alarming rate. But did you know that U.S. pets are too? In fact, as this Arizona Star article points out, Pet Obesity Is On The Rise. According the article, 25-40 percent of all dogs in America are overweight. The worst part is that most owners are simply not up to the challenge of helping their dog lose weight. We tackled this issue head on with a recent Dog Care Tip article entitled Is Your Dog Overweight? It’s a great place to start if your dog is overweight and you need some direction on how to handle it.

But let’s simplify things a bit. If your dog is looking a tad chubby, here are three tips to help him or her lose the pounds. Best of all, if you stick by these three rules, chances are good that you can keep your dog slim for years to come. So here goes:

1) Decrease Their Dog Food Serving SizeSounds simple, right? Well, it is. Most people give their dogs way more food than they really need. Not sure why, but they do. Cut back the serving sizes and watch that extra weight start to melt. Keep your furry friend fully fed (of course) but if your pup is really pudgy, cutting back on their dinner is a fantastic place to start.

2) Switch To Low Calorie Dog TreatsOkay, here’s our chance to promote our own products. If your pooch is chubby and you like to give them rewards (who doesn’t?) then consider switching to Charlee Bear Dog Treats. Dogs love them, they are tiny little oyster shaped crackers that don’t leave crumbs in your pockets, and here’s the best part – they are only three calories per treat. Bingo. Problem solved.

3) Go For 2-3 Walks A DayThis is great for both dog and human! The more exercise your dog gets, the less inclined they will be to gaining weight. The fresh air is a nice plus and going for long walks can erase the stress of the day. For your dog, they get a little extra excitement in their lives and dogs that receive more mental stimulation are less inclined to develop behavioral problems. Come to think of it, my behavior is a little better when I get my 2-3 walks a day too!

Dealing with diets can be stressful. Unfortunately, there isn’t a magic wand that can slim your dog without effort. However, iif you follow our three tips, your pooch can start losing the pounds. By simply cutting back on portion sizes, switching to low calorie treats and taking more walks with your dog, your pup will be healthier and happier. And as we always say, a healthy dog is a happy dog.