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Now’s the time to go wild with mushrooms

These meaty, musky creatures with their incredible variety of flavour and texture are certainly worth experimenting with

Fast food: Joanna Weinberg

November 10 2011, 12:01am, The Times

Portobello mushrooms with garlicPeter Howard Smith/Getty Images

There’s little not to like about mushrooms — those meaty, musky creatures with their incredible variety of flavour and texture. They will happily star in many pies, stews, soups and curries, but it’s still worth looking for new twists on familiar dishes.

While mushroom risotto is the standard vegetarian option on every gastropub menu, it need not be boring. Try it with red wine and bitter radicchio in this richly dark and complex version: soften shallots and chopped mushrooms in olive oil for a few minutes, then add chopped garlic and cook for a minute. Stir in the rice, frying on for a minute until it is translucent, then begin to add your red wine — a soft Italian red such as valpolicella will work well.…