The menu concept at Rosendale's Market Market is eclectic, innovative and kind of funky — in a good way. The menu features a heavy bit of South of the Border and Asian culinary influences. But rest assured it is not so extreme that you won't find plenty to entice the palate.

Parking is primarily in the back of the building, so this gives the restaurant an immediate feeling of being avant-garde. Upon entering the small dining room, the next impression will be the sense of ambience being more utilitarian than "stylish." Its no-nonsense assemblage of concrete tables and assorted chairs makes sense here, as does the choices of art on the walls.

Al fresco dining is provided on the street side of the restaurant. Some privacy is offered by the gardens surrounding the area, creating a desirable destination to drink or dine.

To whet your appetite, start with either the Snack or Appetizer menu. If that is not enough, your server will let you know what the specials are for the evening.

Gravlax ($9) is typically a salmon filet that has been cold-cured with a mixture of salt, sugar and herbs. It is then sliced very thinly before plating. Here, char was used instead of salmon. And instead of being served in almost transparent thin slices, it was cut into 1/2-inch cubes and served atop a creamy raita that held the slightest hint of grapefruit for freshness. The pink cubes of fish were topped with a garnish of "mustard caviar," mustard seed that had been soaked to hydrate. They were spicy and snappy in texture, which was a relief of excitement with the otherwise soft and underflavored dish.

Scallion Pancakes ($8) were slightly different, too. A large frittata-like pancake, heavily studded with shreds of carrot and green onion, was cut into several wedges and served with a soy-based dipping sauce. The pancake was tender, savory and so delicious. It was even more so with a quick dip in the sesame seed- and chili-spiked sauce.

Entrees include options based on traditional meals from around the world. Gluten-free pad thai, Korean-style fried chicken, mussels and even meatloaf and steak are among the choices. We went with the Molé Pork ($19) and the Chicken Schnitzel ($23).

Molé Pork was a composite meal. On the platter was a small bowl of the pork. Cubes of meat had been marinated and simmered in a molé sauce that was a tad sweet from the peppers, raisins and almonds used to make the sauce, but it was fork tender and enjoyable. Also on the plate was a mixed green salad topped with pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and avocado. The plate was topped with a huge slice of thick, warm cornbread for dipping up all the molé. A side dish filled to the brim with organic brown rice and long simmered pinto beans completed the array of food with this entrée.

Chicken Schnitzel — was amazing! Chicken cutlets were lightly breaded with panko crumbs and fried till fork tender. This was served on top of a hash comprised of roasted potatoes, fennel and fresh peas. It was sauced with a lemon and caper "gravy" that alone would have made the palate swoon. But here they stuck with tradition and also topped it with an over-easy egg, making this dish a real showstopper.

There is a hefty beverage menu featuring a litany of alcoholic and non-alcoholic libations. They also present classic drinks such as the Negroni ($8), a combination of sweet vermouth, gin and a good dash of Campari. Desserts are made in house such as Strawberry Rhubarb Shortcake ($6) and Fig Ice Cream ($6).

The staff was superb. They were attentive and friendly, and they were genuinely enthusiastic about the food and eager to help narrow down choices. Making a trek out to Rosendale is well work the trip.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Theresa J. Marquez, Web producer for the Poughkeepsie Journal, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 2005 with high honors. She has worked for Cooking Light magazine and is a local personal chef and culinary coach. Contact her at enjoy@poughkeepsiejournal.com

Directions: From Poughkeepsie, cross the Mid-Hudson Bridge heading west, following signs to Route 9W north. Continue north about 4.5 miles then turn left onto Route 299 West. Drive about 6.5 miles into New Paltz. At the lighted intersection just before the bridge, turn right onto Route 32. Follow Route 32 for about 7 miles into Rosendale. Turn left onto Madeline Lane. The restaurant is on the left (on the corner of Route 32 north and Madeline Lane).