What Is Skate Wing, and Where Can You Eat It?

The skate is a weird-looking fish that resembles a hang-gliding squid. But it tastes great, “so silky. Like no other fish,” says opinionatedchef, who buys it fresh at Courthouse Fish Market and makes it at home. The traditional restaurant preparation of caper–brown butter sauce has worn on her: “99 percent of chefs, even the good creative ones, serve it with the same stupid brown butter caper sauce. … It is just the oddest thing. Imagine creative chefs only being able to serve beef as a plain steak.”

Maybe she should try the hound-endorsed version at Rendezvous, where it appears on the menu with asparagus, Meyer lemon, and, um, hazelnut–brown butter. OK, opinionatedchef, maybe you have a point.