To boost the demand for cars and, accordingly, car tires, car tire manufacturers and brothers Édouard and André Michelin published the first edition of a guide for French motorists, the Michelin Guide.The brothers printed nearly 35,000 copies of this first, free edition of the Michelin Guide, which provided useful information to motorists, such as maps, tire repair and replacement instructions, car mechanics listings, hotels, and petrol stations throughout France.It has to be said that the former are not loved by chefs.Claude Bosi, for example, took to Twitter to launch a savage attack on the blogger James Isherwood, who had the temerity to sniff at his rosehip and crab apple sorbet starter.

Many others – chefs across London, such as Francesco Mazzei of L’Anima in the City – had failed to gain one. Those who won them patted their tummies; those who lost wept. It’s like losing a girlfriend,” he told host Fredrik Skavlan. I don’t think Michelin understands what it’s doing itself.

This week, as I read that a French food critic had – shock horror – leaked details of the 2014 Michelin guide for France, I had a distinct feeling, or even taste, of déjà vu (albeit flavoured with a lobster velouté served on a bed of broccoli couscous).

For, back in 2010, just as I was investigating Michelin for a BBC film, and at the point when my inquiries into this secretive organisation were being rebuffed, details were leaked.

William Sitwell is editor of 'Waitrose Kitchen’ Read more 'Dots of sauce on a plate = culinary masturbation.

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