Klein, Kors Give Classics A Savvy Twist

November 06, 1991|By Lisa Anderson, Chicago Tribune.

NEW YORK — In an aching economy, there is comfort in savvy, sophisticated classics, and Calvin Klein and Michael Kors filled the prescription Tuesday as the American 1992 spring fashion collections wrapped up their second day here.

They don`t call Calvin Klein ``Mr. Clean`` for nothing. No gimmicks here, just the pure geometry of fluid lines in soft colors and fabulous fabrics that quietly screamed good taste.

Who wouldn`t want gently tailored pantsuits and short jacketdresses in featherweight silk or wool crepe rendered in soothingly refined shades like coral, apricot, alabaster, mocha, rose quartz, smoke and navy. In solids and subtle plaids, they looked good enough to eat, and such celebrity-socialite clients as Blaine Trump and Barbara Walters looked ready to order.

Like other designers here, Klein rode the hemline seesaw between long and short, usually easing the way with high slits or transparency in his longer looks. Here, long skirts looked best as ankle-length drifts of sheer, pale plaid georgette worn under long, slouchy cashmere pullovers or billowy shirtdresses.

But Klein also got up close and personal with sexy, micro-mini, maxi-tight stretch-cotton tank dresses, backless cashmere T-shirts and sheer lace bodysuits.

At night, he scored with the ``Lost Horizons`` look of long, transparent georgette tunics slit high over narrow pants and the regal power of a one-shouldered column of white matte silk frosted with a crystal-beaded border.

While Klein focused on summer in the city, Michael Kors showed country club classics with a hip twist.

Kors took such preppy summer standards as gold-buttoned navy blazers and tossed them over white halter bodysuits and heather gray pleated pants or strapless navy dresses with short chiffon skirts. Classic necktie stripes in navy and lime green showed up as easy cardigan jackets or little beaded tank dresses, while a halter-neck tennis dress teased in stretchy black Lycra.

Man-tailored white shirts in heavy silk looked sexy over wispy lace wrap skirts. And Kors took madras plaid for a merry spin in black and white pantsuits, long, sheer shirtdresses or skirts over rompers. With a gloss of some bugle beads and a white silk dinner jacket, the madras was ready for the club`s big dance in this summer romance of a collection.

While Kors was at the club, Todd Oldman held a ``garage sale,`` and there were some unusual bargains to be found: jackets and dresses with the tailor`s chalk marks rendered in bright embroidery, beaded madras slipdresses and a bullfrog green suit embroidered with sequined beetles, ladybugs and assorted insects.

Meanwhile, Christian Francis Roth threw a cocktail party, serving up witty, trompe l`oeil strapless silk crepe dresses printed with such summer coolers as a Bloody Mary, complete with a celery stalk applique, or a lime rickey, garnished with a citrus slice. The knockouts here, however, were the black and white tuxedo variations, such as a black silk crepe pantsuit with one white lapel.

Jun and Soyon Kim, the young Korean brother-and-sister design team behind the up-and-coming Isani label, offered a Dutch treat for spring with Delft tile-inspired prints on leggings, bras and boxy jackets and a zesty blend of candy stripes and madras plaids in long jackets and narrow pants.