Are the Primary drive sprockets from Rockymountainatvmc good for the $$ or would $30 more for a sunstar be the way to go??

Im a long time Primary Drive user but if you are looking for the most bang for the buck I'd say step up to the Sunstar sprockets. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life. I never lube but keep it clean and generally get at least 15K miles from Primary Drive set up. With Sunstar sprockets no flipping and they are in better shape by the time the chain is done...around 20K.

all of the time, nothing fancy, just standard steel sprockets. That's all I've ever bought for my 2009 and 1990, last one (16 tooth on my 2009) got 16K out of it, Didn't flip it just replaced it when it started "hooking" and the rear was worn anyways. I always replace them in sets with a new chain.

. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life.

Doesn't that throw the alignment out between the front and rear sprockets?, The front sprocket has a collar that is thicker on one side more than the other.

My thoughts exactly

__________________"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
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__________________"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
-DustyRags

Are the Primary drive sprockets from Rockymountainatvmc good for the $$ or would $30 more for a sunstar be the way to go??

I've run Primary Drive, Sunstar, JT, and PBI on the front.

Sunstar lasts the longest by a good margin.

Next comes JT and Primary Drive. Primary Drive is significantly cheaper but often goes out of stock right about the time I need to order JT is good quality but not much cheaper than Sunstar so I only buy them if I can't find Primary Drive or Sunstar in stock in the size I want.

PBI is Soft, noticeably softer than the other 3. A 16T I'm running right now showed visible hooking after 6k miles. I doubt it'll last much over 10k miles. A 14T Sunstar I've been using with the same chain after 5k it still looks new. The 14T is my offroad sprocket so it sees much tougher conditions than the 16T I only use for pavement/gravel road riding.

Im currently installing a EM Drill thru subframe bolt upgrade because I dont have a choice in the matter. I wrecked on some ice last week and my sw motec bars took the brunt but in the process busted the bolt right off the frame leaving it stuck in there tighter then hell. Currenting drilling thru (about 2 hours along and im roughly 6/10 of the way there) and I'm wondering who in their right mind would do this mod with no reason!!! Its hard as hell to cut thru that metal and Im using a well lubed bit pulling out and cleaning it every few mm. Hopefully when I get home from work I can knock it out rather quickly and slap the bike back together. Im hoping HARD that I havnt screwed up and drilled untrue.

ANYWAY now that I'm doing this Im wondering if anybody have any Doohickey tools lying around that they would part with. Figured Id just knock everything out while I'm at it. I'd pass them on when I'm done with them as they pretty much are once use tools from what I understand.

If anyone's curious on how to wire their KLR with a couple relays for the headlight(s), and is the DIY kind of person, here you go:

-RED goes to your battery- make sure you use at least a 15 amp fuse inbetween the battery and the relay.
-BLACK is your ground.
-YELLOW goes to the factory high beam lead. The low beam lead will not be used.
-GREEN goes to the city lights plug. In America, this lead is just tucked inside of your headlamp fairing, it should be a brown wire with a white stripe. If you wish, you can install a switch inbetween the City Light lead and the relay to turn the headlamp off to conserve power. If you are in a country that uses the City Light, then you will need to splice into the lead- the power consumption is very low (0.1 amps about).
-ORANGE goes to your headlamp for LOW BEAM. When you turn your bike on, this relay will flick on and remain on.
-BLUE goes to your high beam, or your auxiliary lights. These will flick on independently of the low beam, keeping that close in beam spread for cornering while giving you that distance spread of the high beam.

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Total cost for me was about $11 in parts. This particular diagram will allow the low beam to remain on when you flick the high beams on. I don't recommend using the stock H4 style bulb with this- both filaments being on at the same time could cause the bulb to burn out, leaving you with no light. Since I use a pair of Rigid Industries Dually LED's for high beams, I don't have issue.

Originally Posted by DirtyDog
Any chance the clutch was upgraded to a "heavy duty" or offroad aftermarket one? From my experience (and I've read it on here before), the aftermarket clutch springs are WAY too stiff. I had to go back to the OEM ones with the aftermarket plates and discs. I had the same symptoms. Super stiff clutch and it actually bent the little arm on the case.

Good Idea, I'll try get in touch with the previous owner to find out. He did upgrade on the front end, Wilbers i think,
so maybe he fiddled with the clutch aswell

Shot for the brainwave ![/QUOTE]

All clutch components are stock !! a mod was done on lever, to cure excessive clutch travel.
I've ordered in new bits in the meantime, somehow i get the feeling ill be sitting with excessive travel soon

Im currently installing a EM Drill thru subframe bolt upgrade because I dont have a choice in the matter. I wrecked on some ice last week and my sw motec bars took the brunt but in the process busted the bolt right off the frame leaving it stuck in there tighter then hell. Currenting drilling thru (about 2 hours along and im roughly 6/10 of the way there) and I'm wondering who in their right mind would do this mod with no reason!!! Its hard as hell to cut thru that metal and Im using a well lubed bit pulling out and cleaning it every few mm. Hopefully when I get home from work I can knock it out rather quickly and slap the bike back together. Im hoping HARD that I havnt screwed up and drilled untrue.

ANYWAY now that I'm doing this Im wondering if anybody have any Doohickey tools lying around that they would part with. Figured Id just knock everything out while I'm at it. I'd pass them on when I'm done with them as they pretty much are once use tools from what I understand.

I did the drill through earlier this year, dam hard to drill straight and true that's for sure. Mine was not quite true but I was able to tap the bolt through and everything has seemed fine since. I plan to tear the bike down this winter for some maintenance and possibly some upgrades I will check it then. Make sure to upgrade the bolts on the lower braces as well while you are at it.

__________________
However, I am not complaining because I know that I am probably better today then I will be tomorrow, so I try and enjoy every day as it comes, and stay determined to live well and be appreciative of what I still can do..."Stromsurfer"

I did the drill through earlier this year, dam hard to drill straight and true that's for sure. Mine was not quite true but I was able to tap the bolt through and everything has seemed fine since. I plan to tear the bike down this winter for some maintenance and possibly some upgrades I will check it then. Make sure to upgrade the bolts on the lower braces as well while you are at it.

Yeah I screwed up royal and drilled down and to the front busting threw the plug for about a inch before I noticed I was way off. Was able to wallow it back true though via the other side but now there is a hole in the plug in the center. Everything is back up and installed and it feels stronger then hell but I just feel bad that I manged to screw up that bad.

Now to finish poping the dent out of my gas tank (from the PO) and painting it red to match the plasic. Hoping to get it all sanded and preped today. Siphon the gas out, sand with 150 wet then 1000 then hit it with cleaner. Hoping it isnt as time consuming as it sounds.