Now, it does currently have a divider, seperating the cabinet into two.

Plan is to remove this (replace locking devices with a peice of 1 x1 instead of the divider as shown below);

SO I need your help. Questions;

1. One or two compartmentsSHould I build it with two seperate compartments. Part of me wants to for some reason I do have two thermostats, but that would leave me without a spare. Could have a central heating chamber with two fans blowing heat out to each compartment. Not sure why I would want to, given most hatches are going to be 100 eggs, and will only be in the hatchers for 4 days I suppose.

2. How to heat it uniformly given its lengthThe box is 1.2m x 50cm, is this too large (long) for a single compartment assuming thats what I go with in the end...?

I really like these ideas;

Can I use this system (would you?).

This is a work in progress team, so your thoughts at this stage will decide where I end up. But I need to complete by thursday so hurry!

There is no way this is only going to be for hatching, who am I kidding.

As it can easily take 6 egg trays easy, hence incubating 216 eggs it really becomes an incubator with a great hatcher capability but a bugger to turn, the reverse of my bar firdge incubator.

I think one compartment is the best idea, now I need to decide wether I put the heat box at one end, or the slimline one in the middle on the long side. Imagine the picture above showing the hologen lights, with the very slim heat compartment, but this is on the top long side. Ducted air via conduit along that side, blowing air across the whole thing.

The reason I like that idea is that Im not sure the conduit piping will work over 1.2 meters, seems like it would hold more stable and uniform heat in all areas if the coduit came from the centre, and pushed air only 60cm each way.

Did we decide that the halogen globes dont work well? I have the space and would probably use 4 globes.

Hey RafPersonally I would set it up as a Hatcher.If you make it into a 216 egg capacity incubator you are still going to have the issues you mentioned of changing it to hatch mode and not being able to have staggered hatch datesSet it up with a heat compartment at each end and use 4 50w halogens, aim the Fans so that that airflow collides at the centre of the egg compartment and spreads all through the the egg area, and have the intakes for the heat compartments at the bottom so that the warm air is encouraged to circulate down through the eggs.Another thought all that glass will be pretty bright with 200w of halogens inside, you will need to shade over the lamps.

RegardsTrev

_________________They say that you cant teach an old dog new tricks, It is a good thing that people aren't dogs!

Thanks mate, been dying for your feedback. I agree on the main issue, I will have it mainly as a hatcher. I can just see that I will be setting eggs as well. I cant help myself. But I will make it a hatcher.

I like the idea of the double ended heat system (wont enoy the wiring though ).

Trev, both of Denis's 'bator's have the fan sucking air out of the egg space into the heat bank, and then out of ducts. Whats your thinking on airflow direction. Denis? any thoughts?

I was also thinking of heat cord, which will offset the issue of too much light. ANy thoughts on that?

I've always thought about building a bator, but never really got the oppurtunity. Sorry, I couldn't be of more help, seeing as you still know more than me by far. I'm glad you've decided to give it a shot. Make sure you get some pic's when its done!

Sounds like a great idea rwood, please update us when you get it going because I have a similar set up which is in its first hatch - eggs move into hatcher Wednesday.

I put a Heating element in mine plus a lamp (it was the quickest and easiest to set up as I didnt have to wire anything myself, just had to make the box), because the box is so large the heating element on its own couldnt cope.

Sorry I cant give you any advice about how to set yours up, but at least we can let each other know what works and what doesnt after the hatch

Ha ha Mate, you will find that you will be hard pressed to have the eggs to keep it and the bar fridge full.So use it as a dedicated hatcher.

Wiring would be dead easy with the downlights, and all nice safe 12volt DC.

I liked Denis idea with the ducting and I reckon it would work easily with 2 heat compartments, one duct for each compartment on opposite sides.Really you have the oppurtunity to experiment and see what works the best, and tell us all about it.

Heat cords would be worth a try depending on the thermostat used, I found the swing was higher than set point and I needed to fiddle with the setting to get a good average temp, But it worked ok.

CheersTrev

_________________They say that you cant teach an old dog new tricks, It is a good thing that people aren't dogs!

My deadline has been extended. I have found space in the Bar Fridge incubator for this thursdays hatch.

So I get to mull things over a bit more.

Trev, I am not sure of the double ended system. Seesm alot of work for a little more air circulation. Given the size of the cabinet, I may go for the fan blowing "Out", as a way of causing more airflow withing the egg space. Two Halogens facing out, and a couple inside the heat box shining on wire heat sinks.

I have a brooder, its 1.5m x 1.5 meters, so nough to take 100 chicks for a few weeks. Can always make bigger brooders.

Its the hatcher that is the issue.

I thought of making half incubator, half hather, but I can easily do that by having egg trays one end and hatching eggs the other (Im sure this will happen anyway, sticking eggs in every nook and cranny.

I am now thinking I will be designing it so it has wire dividers (running from top to bottom across the short length) to keep chicks from different matings seperate. WIth the dividers in place across the airflow there will be an added level or trouble getting the air to circulate, so I might use the conduit now, pushing air in from the top, across the "egg pens".

Yep, I like that idea....

WIll keep thinking about it. Best results come from well thought out projects.

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