Previously, this engine was running nicely with a MS2 v3.0 using a EDIS ignition system (36-1 crank trigger wheel, Ford VR sensor, EDIS coilpack, EDIS module, custom spark plug wires). In 2009-2010 winter, I decided to convert it to stock wiring, stock ECU, stock sensors, stock everything (when I did the swap initially, I bought the engine without any ECU and a cut wiring harness, so I went MS2 at the first time. I sourced all the OEM missing parts right after the swap). In 2010 spring, the engine ran nicely on the stock ECU, but, I felt like I needed some more way to fine tune the engine for more power. While I was doing the conversion to the stock ECU, I tried to go full sequential and I added a bunch of board modifications and add-on boards to the MS2 and it resulted in a fried MS2 chip. I discovered that my DIY electronics skills are limited. I learned that I should let the pros do their job and pay for it. So, I bought a brand new complete MS3 unit from DIYautotune in 2010 summer. I did an adapter harness to be able to switch from the stock ECU to the MS3 unit by only disconnecting 4 ECU plugs. I used a 31/24/22/28 receptacle, a female solder cup DB37 connector and a male solder cup DB37 connector.

-enable fan control-enable the stock in-dash Check Engine warning light as a shift light with the spare outputs-instead of using the clutch start switch for launch control (clutch pedal needs to be fully depressed), I'll use the cruise control clutch switch (clutch pedal needs to be depressed only a little bit). Then, enable flafshift.-because I'm using the OEM MAP sensor as my main MAP reading, I can now enable barometric compensation using the on-board MAP sensor.-enable VSS by taping into the cruise control speed sensor wire.-fine-tune EAE-fine-tune injection timing-fine-tune boost control PID-fine-tune idle PID

What is on the to-do list for 2012 :

-fine-tune injection timing-fine-tune boost control PID-Try using the SD card (need to find a SD card reader for my laptop)-Try to remove that annoying Loss of Sync reason #2 when the engine is cold and I'm around 1900-2000 RPM. Maybe playing with the VR pots.

This run was done at 16 PSI, AFR were at 11.8:1 and the gas was 91 octane.Some high-RPM ignition problem forced us to stop the runs at 6400 RPM. Even gapping the BKR6EGP plugs down to 0.028" didn't cure the problem. I will install some BKR7E and see if the problem goes away. Anyway, at this boost level, it was time to upgrade the heat range of the spark plugs.

The 2 dips in the torque curve at 4000 and 4500 RPM are due to boost control oscillation (from 17.3 PSI to 15.1 PSI to 16.8 PSI). After that, boost is steady at 15.8-16.2 PSI. I still need to perfect the PID settings of the CL boost control :

Do not care about the "Flywheel Torque" and "Flywheel Power" on the dyno plot. The numbers are really at the wheels.To me, the most interesting aspect of this tuning session is that I came in with 250 whp and came out with 290 whp.

By looking at the trigger wheel, we used 215° at first try but it was 360° off. So, I simply added 360° and I ended up at 575°. Basically, this is because of the location of the cam angle tooth vs the #1 cylinder TDC. I needed to add 360° so that the cam event happen at the right place.

Seriously, with this tooth#1 angle at 575°, the timing is dead on when verified with a timing light. I highly suggest you to use this setting.

The one named "Hi-voltage Tacho-Out" with the relay coil. I gutted a standard automotive Bosch relay and it worked like a charm. Make sure you remove the the small contact arm inside the relay. If you don't, you will hear the relay clicking each time the tach output trigger (really annoying).