Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton's Spring muse was the pop star Noosha Fox, of the U.K.-based band Fox, who also provided the show's opening soundtrack. With the first models coming out in sideswept hair, denim pinafores, and Swedish Hasbeens, a fresh 1970s vibe was quickly established. Flowers appeared as serene, powdery prints or artfully embroidered on dresses, jackets, and blouses. Fish prints appeared as well, which collided nicely with the floral. Of course, it wouldn't be a Holly Fulton show if there weren't some eye-popping geometrics, but they were much softer now, in paler tones and embellished in crystals.

Different from seasons past, there was some structure to Fulton's flow, via a brilliant boned dress in black and white and some short, boxy jackets. Similarly strong were the accessories. (Don't forget, Fulton considers herself equal part accessories designer.) The fan-shaped handbags, orchid-detailed chokers, and necklaces were brilliant. And we must give a nod to the elasticized-waist "track" pants: The elastic did not deter from the tailoring at all, and it means that carbs are back on the menu!

If she faltered at all, it was with a few pieces in a color called Tangerine Fish. On paper, that sounds intriguing, but they were a dull brown that brought down the separates they were teamed with. That weakness was quickly forgiven, though, by a showpiece dress made from cork and embellished with crystals, and jackets whipped up from tinsel. Fulton isn't just a print innovator, she's a pretty sharp hand at fabric, too.