The regular and opaque colors can be used at 230. There is not really suppose to be an upper limit on the regular and opaque color, but the opaques are observably thicker. Mixing some water to thin the ink is no problem if you use a higher mesh count. I do like to use it full strength on plastic though because of the texture.

The metallics are limited more by number of pulls than mesh size is that makes sense. You can pull the first print very easily even with a 230, but as it goes on, more and more of the metallic pigment starts to clog the screen. I have printed for an hour with our 110 screens with the metallics and had no issues, but at 230 I have had to wash it out after 20 min and start again.

Pantone matching is something we are looking to do in the future, but have not gotten it done yet. It involves a subscription fees and is very expensive. We do realize it is important for serious printers.

Flash drying between colors is recommended and doing a wet on wet is best, but you can actually print our ink on dry ink if you want because the adhesion is just that good. That is up to you.

As far as plastic, there is no better water-based ink for plastic than ours. It even works on vinyl. The only thing I can think of that would not be great is polypropylene. It would stick to it, but not as well. Nothing sticks well to polypropylene.

We say a month on the shelf life of the emulsion once mixed just sitting there. You can greatly extend this by refrigeration. Putting the emulsion once mixed in the fridge, extends its life by quite a bit. Someone else here says they have used year old emulsion from the fridge with no issues.