After spending 6 summers in the Alps and climbing the Weissmies North Ridge a few days earlier, I finally felt ready to tackle the impressive Täschhorn. Fresh snowfall during the previous 2 days put some question marks by our attempt.

In order to avoid a late crossing of the crevassed Weingarten Glacier we started at 05.00 in the morning in Täschalp. We left the car in dense fog and slowly followed the trace along the steep moraines of the Weingarten Glacier. Suddenly we were above the clouds...shit, all the mountains around us were plastered with snow. Normally this beautiful scenery would make me very happy, now it just seemed we should cancel our climb tomorrow. We reached the Mischabeljochbivouac without problems.

The very stable weather window persuaded us to give it a try despite the fresh snow. By the start of daylight around 5.30 we left the bivouac. The first part in the rocks on the right side of the ridge posed little problems. Once on the crest of the ridge we encountered more snow, but there was a good trace left by 4 parties ahead of us. Without great difficulties we finally reached the summit block. A small traverse and some tricky passages in shitty rock brought us around 10.15 to the summit.

Although the views were superb, we didn't stay long on the summit and started the very uninviting descent back down the SE Ridge. Because of the loose rock we secured the entire descent of the summit block. Back at the snow shoulder the real misery started. Around 11.30 the sharp, corniched snow passages had become very weak and unstable. It was difficult and time consuming climbing back down. Once the snow sections were over, we knew we were in and easily reached the crowded bivouac again at 18.30 in the evening, happy to find out they left or beds for the night untouched.

The 17th. of August was a fantasic day, with brillant sky, but for the next day, bad weather after noon was promissed from the swiss weather forecast. So my fantastic swiss mountain guide GABRIEL VOIDE from SAAS-FEE and I decided to try the Täschhorn already on the first day.

So that became a very long day for us!

We started from Mittelallalin station at 7.30, went over Feejoch and Feekopf to Alphubeljoch and reached summit of Alphubel at 10o`clock. We took some minutes on the summit but after that, climbing down on Alphubel S-O ridge was acted and we reached Mischabeljoch at 11.15.

After a short brake and snack we started on the S-O ridge and reached summit of Täschhorn at 15.15 in fantastic weather and wind conditions. There was quite much snow on the rigde but my perfect guide GABRIEL VOIDE made it possible. The way back to Mischabeljoch took another 3,5h so we descended in biwak at 18.30. It was a perfect day and next day we climbed up to Alphubel again and went to Längfluh station and than back to Saas-Fee by cable car. At 16.00 it started to rain in Saas-Fee so we had done everything correct in our plan.