I thank you in advance for giving this video a look.
My girlfriend filmed it so the distance is not accounted for...
1st shot was a FLX surge SS thrown high fo 275'
2nd was a SL thrown for 300'
3rd was a 330' Wraith pro with an S turn
4th just sucked!

felixtibs wrote:How does one create the "snap" of a release without curling into flexion and then releasing into extension?

Pull tighter to your chest. If you keep the disc close to your chest, your elbow will bend and your wrist will naturally flex and then extend if you keep it loose. Keep that pull as tight as possible to your chest - this is the key to snap.

Morgan Lasley
When life gives you lemons, stick them in the freezer for a few hours, then throw them back, 'cause they're like rocks, man.

In this vid of me, you can see my wrist is pretty straight at the pullback, I pull real close to my chest and as I do that my wrist cocks its self as it passes my left peck, then it pops back into place on its own. This hole is only about 215 so its not exaggerated, but you can get the point

When you watch him throw, you'll see that he starts the throw with his hip pivot. That gets his arm moving from the reach back towards his torso. As he nears max pivot on the hips, he begins the torso rotation and the super fast arm pull. If you freeze it at :43 you'll see the perfect release - straight out in front with the chest squared up to the target.

It looks like Mike actually has some early releases here, but they're still going a long, long way.

You need to keep the disc as close to your chest and arm as you can until it's the last thing to unfold as your arm extends. Your elbow never locks because the disc comes out right before it does and then you finish and follow through.

Here's an exercise to try:

Grab a disc and stand about a a disc width + 1" away from a wall. The objective here is to reach back with the disc and pull throw slowly, keeping the disc within 1" of the wall and to extend your arm fully from back to front. When your arm is almost extended and the disc is tucked into your wrist, the last movement is to flick the wrist open and the disc would go straight in that direction.

Once you feel you're comfortable with doing that away from a wall. take a disc outside and repeat the exercise with some speed. What you *should* feel is that final pivot of the disc as it moves from being tucked into your wrist to swiveling out and jetting out of your grasp. You need to grip the disc firmly between your index finger and thumb and use the rest of your fingers for support and stability. The disc should pivot/rotate between the index and thumb - that's where you want it to come out when you throw.

Once you get the feeling for that snap, then you can begin to incorporate hip rotation or torso/shoulder rotation. At least then you'll know what you're trying to achieve.

The eventual goal would be to time it all correctly - your hip pivot is smooth and powerful and just as that is almost maxed, your torso rotates and pulls your arm - you then add power to the pull of your arm as fast as you can. If you time it right, you just increase the speed and power of your pull until your chest is square to the target and the disc unfolds down your arm and rips out while your arm is pointing towards your target. Then your arm continues to move past your chest slightly increasing in speed until your off arm comes up to slow you down and allow the follow through.

dgdave wrote:You should also throw slower discs. Gazelles, Chetahs, and Cyclones are popular choices.

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Sure, I can pick up a few Dx version to train and develop with. Now for the weight...?171g is what I use generally. I have a 150 leopard which i have NO control with

I'd suggest discs in the mid 160's and see how that goes. If you can throw them without turning them over, then you can use some 150g stuff for glide (valk, sidewinder) or go a little heavier for wind. If you find that you're throwing the stuff over 400', then you might find moving up in weight helpful to add some overstability to the discs.

It's my belief that if you're throwing 350', then a mid 160ish wraith flies for you like a 170+ wraith flies for a person throwing over 430'. In order to benefit from a wraith though, I believe you need to be throwing at least 350'ish (and not with an anhyzer or S throw, just flat 350'ish).

A 150-160g teebird will be a good stable learning disc as well as the others above.

One more thing to help with all the nose up throwing. Get your weight forward, when you have your plant foot down lean in the throwing direction. Relax and start the throw slow and then accelerate the closer to the hit you get, and be fast at the end of the throw (doesnt equal strong) And as has been said before, if you happen to hit your right nipple with the disc on your throw you are on the right track