I need to vent. So my weekend of wrenching turned to ****. Was planning on working a little last night, a little tonight & then all day tomorrow. Well, for various reasons, that's turned into, no work last night, no work tonight, & maybe, if I'm lucky, 4 hours tomorrow. Frustrating as ****! Venting over.

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I need to vent. So my weekend of wrenching turned to ****. Was planning on working a little last night, a little tonight & then all day tomorrow. Well, for various reasons, that's turned into, no work last night, no work tonight, & maybe, if I'm lucky, 4 hours tomorrow. Frustrating as ****! Venting over.

I feel your pain. I hate it when life gets in the way of wrenching.

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Even without an 11/16" socket I managed to get some time yesterday & get some stuff done.

Rebuilt the rear JJ finally. Washed them all up in the parts washer then put them all back together with a good coat of green grease.They'll be good for a while.

Got the Wizard brackets installed finally. Snagged the cables from a ZJ from pull-a-part. Someone said I'd need to grind something if I used ZJ cables, but I didn't have to grind anything. Install was stupid easy. Like 10 minutes per side & that included jacking it up & removing the tire. I do need to take them off again & re-route the cable. The way the cable works now it's yanking on my brake lines pretty good. I'll do that one night this week.

It's the wiz, it's the wiz!

Next we moved onto the shocks. Installed JKS BPE's & the upper stud converters. Some of you may be thinking "why the hell is he doing the stud converters when he's just going to do the Ford towers soon anyway." Well, merely for ease of doing the ford towers. When I did the outboard in the back I did not compensate for the pressure of the bilstien's lifting the *** end up another 1/2", so at the time my travel was off. More up than down by about 1/2" or slightly more. I don't want that on the front. I want it dead nuts. So I installed the stud converters to A. get everything setting where it will be setting with the new shocks installed. B. It'll be easy to locate the height of the towers. I measure my the shock travel I have now, which is 2.5", add 3.5" to get me to 6", then I know the center of the shock eye needs to be 3.5" higher than where it sits now. Plus I want to get the shocks broke in before I do the towers too, just in case they sag any from brand new. Sounds logical in my mind. So, I'll have those JKS upper stud converters for sale in a couple weeks. So, I now have all new springs, except for the ones I got from Brad, & all Bilstein 5125 255/70 shocks all around. She rides like a dream now. Wife made the comment again last night that it rides pretty good.

I also got the Currie front uppers installed Saturday. They had those stupid piece of **** JJ. They didn't even bother putting a zerk in these.

So I guess even with my *****ing about my plans getting all ****ed up on me, I still got a lot done.

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& I have the 3/4" LED lights & blinker from Genright on order that should be here early this week.

So I understand how to do the 2 wire to 3 wire conversion for the front markers/turn signals I am putting in the grill. That seems farily simple. My real question pertains to how I need to wire the 2 wire LED lights I'm getting from Genright for my side markers that I am mounting in the fender well. Do I just hook up the existing wires from the old side marker, to the new light & call it a day? Or do I have to run them a certain way or install resisters/diodes with these too?

Gracias Senors!

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Yes you will need resistors and diodes if you want them to function as turn signals. I initially installed them with the ground and constant wires so they act as marker lights only, but never got around to building my 2 to 3 circuit board.

Here's the thread you will need to review before attempting to make your own resistor / diodes..

Yes you will need resistors and diodes if you want them to function as turn signals. I initially installed them with the ground and constant wires so they act as marker lights only, but never got around to building my 2 to 3 circuit board.

Here's the thread you will need to review before attempting to make your own resistor / diodes..

I may have to swap the rig over to use hood pins in the very near future. I've been told I can't use the stock hood latches, but I am holding on to a glimmer of hope that I still can somehow. If not, I will have the huge ugly spot where the hinge used to be. Anyone have any ideas for covering this thing up to make it look nice? I thought about a big light for a side marker/signal, but not a big fan of that. Maybe (2) of those 3/4" LED's I'm getting from genright stacked would look better, instead of putting it inside the fender well? I'm open to anything really, so throw me some ideas.

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I may have to swap the rig over to use hood pins in the very near future. I've been told I can't use the stock hood latches, but I am holding on to a glimmer of hope that I still can somehow. If not, I will have the huge ugly spot where the hinge used to be. Anyone have any ideas for covering this thing up to make it look nice? I thought about a big light for a side marker/signal, but not a big fan of that. Maybe (2) of those 3/4" LED's I'm getting from genright stacked would look better, instead of putting it inside the fender well? I'm open to anything really, so throw me some ideas.

Can you somehow run the Drake hood latches and just use a custom base on the fender tube?

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Can you somehow run the Drake hood latches and just use a custom base on the fender tube?

Really not sure. I would think if I could run the Drake's I could run the stockers. I think the problem is going to be where the bolt goes down through the fender. I think it's going to be right on the edge of the tube underneath, so no way to get the nut on or set properly. I'll know more saturday once I get them mounted. I don't mind the hood pins themselves, just the big ugly recess that'll be left.