Oysters with a Tomato, Garlic and Chili Froth at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Oysters with a Tomato, Garlic and Chili Froth at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The Huarache de Carnitas at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The Huarache de Carnitas at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The Grilled Octopus at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The Grilled Octopus at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Striped Bass with Citrus Corn Foam at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Striped Bass with Citrus Corn Foam at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The braised Short Ribs at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The braised Short Ribs at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Roasted Chicken with Mole Negro sauce at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Roasted Chicken with Mole Negro sauce at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Passion Fruit with Guava, Candied Peanuts and Dulce de Leche at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Passion Fruit with Guava, Candied Peanuts and Dulce de Leche at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Lemon Granita with Orange Sorbet and Chile Piquin at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Lemon Granita with Orange Sorbet and Chile Piquin at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The exterior of La Urbana in San Francisco.

The exterior of La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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A half drunk Martini at La Urbana in San Francisco.

A half drunk Martini at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Salsa sits in the kitchen at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Salsa sits in the kitchen at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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A couple enjoys dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

A couple enjoys dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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A cactus on the bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

A cactus on the bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Salsa sits in the kitchen at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Salsa sits in the kitchen at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Smoke being added to the Aguachile Ceviche at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Smoke being added to the Aguachile Ceviche at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Tomato Garlic Chili Froth for the being whipped for the Oysters at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Tomato Garlic Chili Froth for the being whipped for the Oysters at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Tomato Garlic Chili Froth being spooned onto the Oysters at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Tomato Garlic Chili Froth being spooned onto the Oysters at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Onions after being cut at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Onions after being cut at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Sesame seeds being sprinkled onto the Chicken with Mole sauce at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Sesame seeds being sprinkled onto the Chicken with Mole sauce at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The upper area above the bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The upper area above the bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The bar La Urbana in San Francisco.

The bar La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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A server places a candle on the table of the at La Urbana in San Francisco.

A server places a candle on the table of the at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The bar at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The door at La Urbana in San Francisco.

The door at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Diners enjoy dinner at La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

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The exterior of La Urbana in San Francisco.

The exterior of La Urbana in San Francisco.

Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

La Urbana isn't cheap, but it's worth the price

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Every time I write a review about an upscale Mexican or Chinese restaurant I feel like I have to make a disclaimer.

The comment section becomes a torrid of disparaging comments about the cost. These are people who go to their taqueria or their neighborhood Chinese hole-in-the-way and expect change back from a $10 bill.

However, both cuisines are complex and time-consuming to prepare, if done right, and the labor involved is as much as the French, Italian or Northern California fare that people seem used to paying $25 or so for a main course.

So when I wrote the La Urbana review which appeared in yesterday’s Chronicle, I addressed this issue once again. Here main courses are $16-$26, but you can taste the difference the preparation and the quality of ingredients. While not every dish may have come together perfectly, some were spectacular and every one was worth the price.