I've tried all sorts of mounts on my builds. I've tried L-brackets both screwed on, collared around a pot and soldered. I've tried pot-mounted, and parallel mounted. This is the second parallel mounted board mount I've done, and it just seemed easier to mount given how much stuff was on the panel. Those are just wood dowels I used for the spacers this time (didn't have any nylon of that quantity), I stiffened the ends of the dowels with cyanoacrylate before drilling them so they'd not split so bad.

The panel graphics are photographic inkjet paper, which was sealed with polyurethane and adhered to the drilled steel panel. There is a tendency for these to peel their edges over time if you're not careful. I'm getting better with that though. I always print a mockup and use that for the panel drilling, then do the photographic quality one later. Usually a couple spray coats of polyurethane to get a nice shine, matt finish actually works better than glossy.

For a board the size of the SN-Voice I think the mount was appropriate. Also the board is surrounded by connectors. Hard to mount perpendicular unless you built a plate to mount it onto._________________Garret: It's so retro.
EGM: What does retro mean to you?
Parker: Like, old and outdated.Home,My Studio,and another view

I am also just about finished with the ENS-76 VCO option 3, but i'm working with Bernie to figure out why the envelope isn't working. Has anyone built the option 3 before?_________________http://www.youtube.com/user/borisandfef

Get this Mosc, it worked first try done on perfboard AND it was translated from a Japanese blog!

Very cool. It's a must have module on a voltage controlled modular. The fact that it worked when first turned on is a quantum mechanical effect, best ignored in normal existence. If it happens again, then you are in another universe than I. _________________--Howard
my music and other stuff

beautiful cabinet loydb have enjoyed very much watching the progress on this. keep up the good work. _________________In an infinite universe one might very well
ask where the hell am I
oh yeah thats right the land of OZ
as good an answer as any

Rebuilt my Frac case today. It turned out to be a major undertaking. Basically all it was originally was two pieces of plywood holding the racks together. I added a top and bottom, swapped the racks around and installed a multiple in the edge of one, repopulated the modules into it with the aid of a thread tap tool (some of those holes were shot), recabled everything, balancing the power supplies (I hope) and then put a piece of plexiglas on the back to keep the dust out.

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Pretty top, black trim, racks are almost unbent.

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Repopulated frac racks. Much more structurally sound.

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Plexiglas to keep the dust out. I'll cover the power supplies eventually.

I feel a little shy posting in this thread after seeing so many beautiful, professional-looking panels and stuff. Perhaps I'm out of place here because my builds are less polished, and are standalone sound boxes instead of racks and panels and modules. I dunno, they have a certain style that is me, I guess...

I feel a little shy posting in this thread after seeing so many beautiful, professional-looking panels and stuff. Perhaps I'm out of place here because my builds are less polished, and are standalone sound boxes ...

Looks fine to me. I have lots of standalone boxes that look just about like that. Build up a big supply of them, then you can hook up just the ones you need at any one time.

I'm just getting started, so I'm building tools before I do more "actual" building...This one is Ian Fritz's transistor matching circuits, combined with a big honking switch ... using a pair of 9V batteries to make the box simple.

Thanks to those who liked my boxes. I don't have any new ones coming soon, so I will try to make some progress on my Lunetta CMOS suitcase-synth thing. Unless I get distracted by someone's cool circuit, like I was for the last 3 boxes!

Modded fairly heavily... added a manual reset switch and a clock LED, changed a cap in the rate circuit so I could go slower, used a different counter...added a pin header output in addition to the 1/4" jack. Using a +/- 15V supply and a different zener (didn't have any 9.1's handy).

On the breadboard it adjusted perfectly, but soldered up on protoboard for some reason I can't get the second op amp position to null all the way to zero. With one amp it went to 4.8mV and swapping them it went to 2.2mV. But both of them nulled to zero in the first position.

Learned a lot about case drilling/mounting pin headers doing this. I need to get a bunch more 1/4" #4 bolts

I feel a little shy posting in this thread after seeing so many beautiful, professional-looking panels and stuff. Perhaps I'm out of place here because my builds are less polished, and are standalone sound boxes instead of racks and panels and modules. I dunno, they have a certain style that is me, I guess...

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