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Finished the RPI streamer for another friend.
This one has an internal power supply and is fitted with an SPDIF hat. Initially I planned on using the Hifiberry Digi+ but it doesn't work well with the display. The PCB sits over the display connecter and so obstructing the display cable. The Hifiberry "clone" does not have that issue. The clone also has a better supply filtering on board.
The streamer also has a 12 volts trigger input so that it is automatically powered on when the preamp is switched on.
Below are some pictures of the streamer:

OK - now I am inspired to clone your work ! I am planning to build in a power supply as well, but will use a Hammond toroidal transformer and a linear dual regulator like this one. This will enable me to separate the power for the Pi and the DAC (I have an Allo Boss). Also planning a combo switch/filter/fuse power input module.

A couple of questions:
- does this version use the same Hammond box as your previous ones - just not chopped as much? Looks like it is a lot deeper and I will need the extra room.
- Looks like you used a longer-than-standard display cable - where did you get that?

Wiring for high-power PSU

Some people like me want to give their amp some punch on the cheap and use enclosed PSUs. I thought I'd share about my way of doing this.
The general design is the same as this one: Pi 3, Justboom AMP Hat, 75W PSU, metal box.

This enclosure happens to look just vile, sorry for that...

There is as little material as possible inside the box, both in quantity and variety. The cables are of the high-temperature, low-smoke type. Ground wires are 2.5mm2, AC wires 1.5mm2, DC wires 0.75mm2. They are oversized considering high ambient temperature. Ground cables must be the last ones to melt, go fat and short. Audio cables are 1.5mm2, same type.

Accidental access to mains voltage can kill. I use a grounded alu shield to completely enclose the area. Also note the removable cover is grounded to the case. If the case is anodised, grind it to ensure bare metal contact at ground points. Ensure you have continuity between the earth pin of the power inlet and any part of the box: cover, case, chassis, shield, psu enclosure... everything. (And, no, earthing does not "kill wifi".)
Also, if you do a bit of cutting/grinding, make sure the inside of the case is clean and dust-free. You don't want a speck of metal to detach, land somewhere and cause a short-circuit.

Use a 3-pin power inlet with earth and AC fuse. Dimension your fuse according to the manufacturer's PSU input specifications and the expected power draw. If you can't find the specifications and tests sheet for your PSU... get another one.
Here you see a 250V/1.25A normal blow fuse. 1.25A is probably a bit large, even considering temperature derating. Also note the insulating adhesive feet under the case.

I hope this design is less unsafe than some I see floating around the Internet. And please chime in if you see an issue with it.

A friend of mine bought a Roomplayer from Simple Audio a few years back. The streamer has been sitting in the box for a couple of years until he asked me to help him set it up. We did install the streamer together and found out that the Simple Audio software is so outdated and poorly constructed. Since the company went out of business a few years back there was no way to upgrade the streamer.

The Simple Audio is housed in a beautiful enclosure and it is fitted with a good amplifier (ICEpower 50ASX; an amplifier build by B&O). It would be a shame to let those parts go to waste so I suggested to him to upgrade the Roomplayer to a Squeezebox device. Here are a few pictures of the internals:

1. The enclosure with the original Simple Audio PCB on right:

2. I fitted an aluminum plate that would serve as the bottom plate for the new streamer guts:

3. The final setup of the Squeezebox streamer:

4. The finished product:

From the outside it still looks like a Simple Audio streamer but it now is a Squeezebox.
If anyone is interested, these are the parts I used:

* An RPI model B
* An IQaudio DAC+
* a 5 volts SMPS
* a custom made trigger relay board (switches the amp on and off)
* a piece of breadboard containing the power LED and driver transistors for the LED and relay.