Necro to Moonlander?

The snow here is predominantly powder and I found the rear of my 2013 necro bogging down a lot last winter. Any thoughts on moving the parts from my necro to a Moonlander frame? I already have a clownshoe front wheel and Bud & Lou tires. I rode with Lou for a day before I realized it was rubbing paint off the chainstays, but never got around to selling it.

So, apologies for this question, which may be beat to death but...Can you fit a big fat Larry on the rear of a Necropug with the stock with the 82 mm rims ( as opposed to the clown shoe) without removing a cog? And if you remove a cog, does it have to be the large granny gear near the spokes or can you take a small cog off? Im a fat newb. I appreciate all of your insight.

GnarBrahWyo - If you take the time to research your question on this forum, you will find it has been asked and answered many times. In short, the answer is yes. On my Necropug, I run BFL's front and rear, Clownshoe in the former, Rolling Daryl in the latter. No problem with chain rub - stock MWOD and cassette. No need to remove any cog. More likely to have rubbing of BFL on the chainstay, depending on tire pressure.

Got everything but the frame ordered. Cables / headset from the UK, everything else from the US. Still waiting to hear back from the LBS what a frame would cost through them before I decide whether to order that online as well.

I talked to a shop yesterday and they gave me a price of $940 + tax for the frame. So I decided to order from Jenson since they collect the GST alleviating customs headaches. Their website didn't show any mediums (or any 2014s). I emailed them and they gave me an item number so I could phone in an order for a Sand colored frame even though it wasn't on the website.

Well I decided to pull the trigger on the Moonie. Our winters are long in Wyoming and I figured the floatation would be of benefit to me.
I really like this color, at first I didn't but it's pretty stunning in person.
The bike is heavy, yes, but as many others have said (and I have been skeptical of) the bike truly does seem lighter than it is. With my pressure up I can get pretty fast on in this. I had a ball just riding this around my street and popping off curbs.
Very stoked to ride some of our trails nearby this winter. Taking out it out on some dry trail tomorrow !

Despite covering this in another thread I figure I should provide some closure in this one.

The only real hiccup came when I needed to remove the old spindle from the MWOD. The official method Surly told me to use was to leave the drive side dust cap in place and unscrew the crank bolt. The dust cap has a plastic washer that is supposed to allow the crank bolt to rotate pressing out the spindle. But all that happened is the crank bolt forced the dust cap straight out shearing off tips of its threads.

I ended up using a standard crank puller with an ISIS type insert. The spindle is in really tight so a fairly long wrench was needed for leverage.

Before using a crank puller I briefly tried using a hammer and punch. DON't DO THAT as it is completely futile and only damages the spindle. You'd probably need a sledge hammer with a full wind up to make it budge, which obviously wouldn't end well.

Only other minor issue is front derailleur clearance. I had to move the derailleur higher, even so the crank arm clearance is a little less than the width of a dime at the high limit.

I added a bottle cage and bolts on the fork since this was taken. Weighed in at 38.8 lbs. Got some reflective tape on order for the rear wheel and a big bag of stainless fame bolts. I also have a black rim strip for the front wheel that will go in eventually.