3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff.
says Dave,
so what did ye shift, CW only, pin only, or byath!!
Answer=
ye say
the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff
So is this wid just CW shift, Pin shift,or both,
Answer =
Nee need t, put it all t,githa for running int drill,
the oil will quieten the diff noises.
run it as it is, as bit of oil int bearings, an meb,e a wee bit on Pin, as it,ll distribute along the CW teeth.
if yer dril goes 3,000 rpms, then thats 60 ish + in direct top gear 1-1 ratio int box
...Pete Cox recommends using a backlash of 3 to 6 thou ,
this is good info, BUTT, but ev said it befoer,
it all depends on what the diff needs,
if its noisey at 4-6, an quiet at 12-14, then its gotta be the latter.
the patterns , look t,me spot on, try it wid yer drill beofre fully assembling.
re side thrusts,
If its hard t,turn, then this is fine, it wont be efta a wee while.
butt, lock side shafts, an turn frae pin end, it,ll be easier.
{ Wee tip, Half shafts bolts, a thin 1/4 drive ex bar will fit thru the wols int stub axle,
this can then ev socket attached, and can then be tightened wid a T bar or ratchet,
this way its faster than a spanner,
ring spanna for last nip up only,!! }
NOTE the edges oft teeth noo, they are dark all way up teeth,
nee shiney edges as like on yer original pics,
I did ask, but ye wer,nt s,sure aboot wot i was on aboot.
look at 2 nd pic, see shiney bits on extreem edges,
esp on yan near the yella spot ont case.
re yella spot tooth, see ho the shiney bit is up the tooth,
this me tinks is cos it just wer,nt sit,n in a worn in spot,
thats a high point.
and this,n, see the shiney edges,
If it does wine a wee bit, its meb,e the best it can be got,
if it howls, then it just shows hoo hard it is t,get a quiet diff,
yer talking a few thou diff t,either mek it quiet, or noisey.
Gud luk
rgds M

just efter there re shimmed, then ye should,nt be able t,turn em frae the half shaft end,
will turn frae the pin end thou, they tight, an notchy, but will soon bed,
tighter the better, they soon slacken off, honest.
M

Another wee tip, see sec pic,
see the small thrust bed, its wuff wuff , ridges init.
whenst putt,n the side thrusts in, mek em as tight as ye can get,
by this i mean actually really good hard tap,n em in wid a punch.
they gotta be this tight, cos in a few miles { corners t,be moer accurate }
the thrusts will be just right, as they will ev bedded into the grooves in carrier.
mek em just a nice fit, so ye can turn halfshafts will result in them being slacker than a Laydee of the nights money mek,n bit, !!!
M

that looks fine too. shinest bit is just above center,
on drive, its just below
see hoo the pattern es shifted alot wid load,, quite alot
shift pin deeper in, drive goes doon
pin shallower, coast goes
t,me that fine, as drive will lower it whenst ont car.
if it runs quiet ok
if it aint, try a 2-3 shim t,move cw away frae pin
as on other post aboot 1,ish, i said same, still think it noo,
....even thou there seems t,be moer blue on inside of teeth, its wot showed up wid nee load, that telling me this,
but patterns alot sharper wid load,no seeing the run off into tooth.
can ye see what im on aboot here !!!
but if ye aint moved owt frae earlier, then this why im saying move it 2 thou, an try agen
its v v time consuming aint it,
wee tip. elctric drill, a /9/16th socket in a holder speeds up bearing cups tek,n em on /off
NOTE, if yer shift,n shims aboot, then all measurements and patterns MUST be done wid same pree loadings on side bearings,
if its done wid less, , even if its same amout either side left oot,so it goes in /oot easier,
it,ll show a diff pattern up, as CW will be shift,n aboot in the bearings,
when ye add load t,it
M

they really look ok
the shinest bit t,me seems just below center,
as whenst car is actually going, it,ll move up,t cover all tooth
see diff frae a ne load pattern, it alters alott.
just for claritys mind, what did ye alter t,start of with regarding pin height an cw shims
And, wots it run like int drill, thats also important, as a good contact pattern on a worn in diff,
dont mean much really,
its wot it runs quietest at
M

Ello Dave, is the coast pattern wid the diff going backwards,under load,
as its gotta be same as the drive
Looking at yer teeth pattern, they all different, { thats nowt fresh, even new,ns are like that or wuss } but look at the pic on drive, wid ne load, top pic
see hoo some teeth are showing a pattern at bottom, an nowt after ,
an also going into the teeth base, also a wee bit on the coast too.
this t,me says ye need moer backlash on CW
the pin height seems OK,
BUTT, gotta no if going backwards was under load,
gotta bung a prybar int bottom,an rotate
as it meks a difference, as can be seen on the loaded an unloaded pics
aim for gett,n the drive an coast heights the same,
whenst that done, then its a matter of shift,n the CW side t,side.
2 / 3 thickness thou at a time, if ye got plenty , if ye aint, its harder work
as it is noo, CW needs t,go away frae pin,{ bigger gap } reduce CW side, an bung shim int t,other side,
{wee tip, mark roller cap on CW side wid a notch int grinder, ont bottom fat side, then ye no thats for that side. as its easy t,get em mixed up,}
will be back in in a few hours, will see whats wot then,
cant doo much moer as aint got a phone wid tinternet onit,nor does it show pics
gotta come on comp. an Her Nibbs is want ,t,go oot soon.
rgds M

ello Dave, the shiney bits im on aboot are right on the edge oft teeth,
they look like the blues been rubbed off
yer hands or pin the culprit !!
compare yer edges wid Ians edges, see the dif, no shiney edge to Ians
its no so much the contact pattern, {its an olde diff } its hoo it runs,
M

Dont use a diff spreader, nee need at all,
a good copper hammer t,wack the bearings in, evenly.
really can be that tight,
too slack, and the CW moves side ways on load.
If ye need 2 big screwdriver / pry bars, on the CW bolts, and casing t,pull / lever it oot, its fine.
if it comes oot easily,its not.
Ye too have found that most teeth give diff readings, some of the new CW/Ps are alott wuss than that, 10 thou on some, an 2 thou on other teeth,
Looking v closely at yer picks, is the side of the teeth shiney cost the blue es been worn off by the pin, or is it cos yer hands ev caught the edges,
If its worn off, then its no sitting right,
this seems t,be a condition wid worn teeth
Blue em all up, going sideways across teeth, so the lines int blue ar at right angles t,teeth
this,l show up pattern better, as ther wont be a ..missed streak.. doon the tooth, follow,!!
run wid oot load, check, then run wid a load, or turn wid a load on CW and casing
see what the pattern shows after booth tests,
if ye can, bung pics up of both tests.
good luk.
regarding Oil, I use 85/140 Penrite stuff,
on the trip to an frae Scotchlandshire every weekend, Im regularly dooing warp 1+ for 40-50 miles at a time on the empty B road,next to M way, { olde Main road }, can go 40+ miles at times, wid nee cars at all , great
{ some of the Local TR Mobsters know of this road, think its great too, never a cam van,cop car or bikelist,,!!! }
the Castrol , comma oils wer Black, like really black an very dirty when handling it whens draining, also it wer like thin pish after one run, { 270Miles }
the Shel Helix was nee better, it got 2 runs
as temps wer 200 degs going by me infra red thingy
the heat was killing the oils
went to Penrite fully synth 85/140, an could get a dozen runs, an oil still same,ish colour
still thick,ish too, no like the thin pish other stuff.
try it, give Dave Parker a ring
http://www.classicgroup.net.nz/product_pcid_344.html
got 5 litres at Stonehenge show, 30£
works oot alot lot cheeper than the cheeper oils.
M

Ello Dave, welcom t,the tired best I can, in spec, good pattern, but noisey Club.,
them patterns look ok t,me, if with oot load on em,
wid load on em, then the pattern should go up the tooth a wee bit
{bigg pry bar wacked into housing an CW, turn wid a breaker bar , BUTT, cant doo this ona collapse spacer type, as it may crush it up, orrid thingys }
ev a good look at the teeth face, see if there an indented area where the 2 wer running t,gither originally,
yours looks ok, but best t,check.
If there is, then im afraid it,ll ev t,go back to that OE took apart., as if moved CW, or pin, it,ll be running on either side of a ..trough,or hollow, an it,ll wine, some times they rattle, on v v slow speed in a electric drill,
thats a good indicator ive fun oot, that it,ll be noisey
putt,n it so its quiet, may mean yer running 10-35 thou, or even moer backlash.
as a worn diff CANT be put back t,factory set,ns
BUTT, a 2 thou shim, either on CW, in or oot of mesh can ev a biggggg effect
or a 2 thou pin shim, although the backlash hardly alters, the noise levels go up alot.
So, thats gonna be a shim in ya side, leave pin, test
noisey, as below., till its quieter.
shim in other side, leave pin, test
then sim in ya side, an pin, test,
other side, an pin, test,
nee shim on CW, one int pin, test
its a long hard drawn oot effort, an still it,ll no be spot on.,grrrrrrrr.
Its a real pain ev,n t tek every thing apart, this why solid spacers are a boon,
hoo many collapsable type would ye go thru if its in /oot a dozen or moer times,!!!
All I can say is try the slightest of shims t,see what it does,
ALSO, mek sure that the nut tourque is the same for all tests,
as just tightening the nut up lightly, then pin height will alter whenst its really tight, by at least 2 thou.
if it runs quiet wid yer MK1 Lug Ole listening intently on diff whilst its running,
running slow,an fast, offload an on loadings, as it meks a difference load does,
and cant here owt, its fine,
hear owt other wise, like it rattlin at v v low speed wid yer electric , or batt drill in top gear an going slow, then it wont be, !!!
{ I got a diff at Stonehenge show on Sunday, paid 140£ for it,
seemed ok, bit of play, but ev spent 3 nights at it, an binned the CW/P last night.
73 thou backlash befoer I got it t,bits, an pattern on it wer ok,
butt trying t,set it tighter, it rattles , and pattern aint there, it just disapears, faint specs on ya side,
as its riding on the edge oft trought / hollow.
runs quiet at 73 thou, but farr too much clonk on tek up, it,ll brek teeth off .}
Any one want a good looking ,worn 3.45 CW/P for free,!!!
some consolation for ye,
I spent a looooooong time on me own, just forit, t,whine owa 50-55 , its coming oot too.
M

the rubber seals, 2 can be fitted easily int seal housing.
helps seal agenst a worn half shaft.
If its worn wid a ringed groove, then alter position of seal if just us,n yan seal
butt, if the wear is alot, thru rusting pits,
then an olde type leather seal is quite good.
as its wider, so acts on moer surface
esp if ye ..squash.. the seal up a wee bit using some sockets the reet size
M

there was a bloke on CT a few yers ago ed yan of thee,s things,
it was always going wrong, 3 times box was oot in as many years.
his was leaking seals if memory serves me right.
Butt, saying that, there loadsa moderns with em on,
So summat must ev been amiss wid his, maybe what folk on here are sugesting, a stop,!!
M

If ye look closely, then yee,l find a double thin spring wesher,
or there should be one in thea, unless its been took oot.
this wee thingy holds the rocker arm against the rockers ped
its nowt t,worry aboot
M