With that post Arizoni, I was able to find out that my chain is in great shape, and at the perfect tension... I just need to clean it now. I can't tell if it is an aftermarket chain, though I just turned over 2000mi, so the previous owner could have replaced it..(sprockets look good too).

Bulletman: Been using that type f mix for a long time now and it seems to keep the dirt from accumulating in the nooks n crannies... ...As you are aware, the chain adjustment and u might as well include the rear brake adjustment in the process isn't too much a PIA but I've only done it twice since I own the bike new...Nothing wrong with replacing with a better quality chain especially if you ride in a spirited fashion on the blacktop...GM

I just picked up a new Tsubaki chain today. I've heard good things about them and it was only $60.

Scottie

Guess I should have looked locally! I ordered the sprocket, brake shoes, and church rubber from out hosts, and a Tsubaki chain online. The chain was $115... Couldn't find it for less online. Oops. Anyway, it arrived today.

Alan LaRue - You must have ordered the O-Ring chain for $115. I just got the standard heavy duty Tsubaki chain. I didn't want an O-Ring chain because I play in the dirt a lot and need to clean and oil my chain often. I've found that fastest and easiest way to clean a chain is to put the bike on it's center stand and place a drip pan under the rear sprocket. Start the bike and idle it in 1st gear to allow the rear tire to spin, then hose the chain down at the bottom of the rear sprocket with a can of brake cleaner. After the chain is visibly clean, let the tire spin for about another 30 seconds. Shut the bike off and take a clean rag and wipe off the chain. Start the bike again and put it in 1st and give the chain a good coat of chain oil. Make sure you spray the chain from all sides. DONE! Whole procedure only takes 5 minutes and works very well. You can also use a small wire brush while the chain is spinning (BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE A FINGER!) and coated in brake cleaner to remove heavily soiled chains.HEADS UP!!!!! I was informed by a bike mechanic who said this procedure IS NOT recommended for O and X ring chains. That's why I didn't buy one.

I've seen a few posts over time of severed fingers from letting a bike idle while cleaning or lubing the chain. It just takes one slip. Even at idle speed a turning rear wheel has a lot of momentum and whatever slips into the cogs is going to get mashed. Be careful.

And yeah, don't be that harsh to an o-ring or x-ring chain. Easy enough to clean them by just spraying on lots of fresh lube and wiping them down, then apply a bit more fresh lube and let it dry. When a o-ring chain is done, it's done and there's not much you can to resurrect it or free a frozen link, but they last so long with so little maintenance it's worth it in my book. Traditional chains do need more thorough and regular cleaning and lubing. Not really much work to do but I'm very, very lazy

Actually, frozen links on an Oring chain can be loosened with ACF50. The reason they stick is because they are rusting, because the lube people use is not getting through to the inside behind the Orings. Heavy chain lubes, like Chain Wax, and some other thick ones, are noted for this. PJ1s fame, as it were, is because it is thin enough to get behind the Orings. ACF50 will too, and it removes the rust, freeing the links. Don't use it as a lube, just a cleaner. Unfortunately, water is thin enough to get behind the Orings and wash out the original lube, especially if one is using a pressure spray to wash the bike.Bare

Just removed my stock Indian "Diamond" brand chain. Over 5000 miles of wet and grit use,.. all links were working, no rust dust, still had life left in it, and no real issues but normal wear and good sprockets.

I think some of you guys are chain purchasing Nazi's .You need to become chain lubing Nazis instead.

Just installed a DID roller chain for $42. It is better quality then the stock Diamond. Why are some of you purchasing $150 chains? Why?

So e of the stock chains are great and last a long time, and some are terrible and just stretch and stretch from day one. And then some seen fine for a bit and then eat a set of sprockets out if nowhere. I lubed mine very well and it died quickly anyway. Whether you get a good one seems to be luck of the draw, and I don't like to gamble like that. As you just said, about $40 and you're all set with nothing to worry about.

I've seen a few posts over time of severed fingers from letting a bike idle while cleaning or lubing the chain. It just takes one slip. Even at idle speed a turning rear wheel has a lot of momentum and whatever slips into the cogs is going to get mashed. Be careful........

That's why I always clean/oil the chain at the back of the rear sprocket. Can't get my fingers caught if the chain is already ON the sprocket.