Rough idle My 2001 Mercury Sable idles very roughly at stop lights, and/or when in neutral. Idles smoothly while in Park or going down the highway. As soon as I put the car in Park, it idles smoothly. Have 55000 miles on the car. First time I have ever had any problems with my Sable. Mechanic put EK-10T Ever-Wear Fuel System Cleaner in the gas tank and a new fuel filter, but it didn't help at all. I have taken my car to two mechanics, no one can figure out what is wrong. Help! Thanks.........Nancy

If it runs ok in Park, try this test: Shift into Drive and while holding the brake give it a little throttle. Does it get more ragged, and show the rough running symtom at this point? If so I think your ignition is breaking down under load. Sometimes a bad set of wires/plugs/cap or rotor can run ok until you put a load on the engine, unlike running it in Park. Are you sure it runs badly in Neutral??? Get back to me. TTIf it runs ok in Park, try this test: Shift into Drive and while holding the brake give it a little throttle. Does it get more ragged, and show the rough running symtom at this point? If so I think your ignition is breaking down under load. Sometimes a bad set of wires/plugs/cap or rotor can run ok until you put a load on the engine, unlike running it in Park. Are you sure it runs badly in Neutral??? Get back to me. TT

AnonymousMar 23, 2014

I have a 2001 mercury sable and when I slow down at the stop lite or stop sign it cuts off not all the time but at least everyday unless u push the gasI have a 2001 mercury sable and when I slow down at the stop lite or stop sign it cuts off not all the time but at least everyday unless u push the gas

2 Answers

Mercury had a recall on 3.0 duratech motors in 2000 and 2001. If you get a fuel smell at startup then you might have a bad lower intake gasket, it could cause a miss if seal is cracked. Article No. 01-4-3 you can get it on AllData.

Also, check the PC rubber L piece that runs from the PVC valve to under the throttle control - it could be busted.

Make sure ignition wires are not cracked. If you haven't tuned it up in over 30-40K consider doing that.

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check for a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Check this by just allowing the engine to idle with the hand brake on and if ok then put your foot on the brake and if the idle changes then there is an air leak in the booster.

Not plugs. Go to AutoZone, Advance, or Oreilys autoparts for a FREE scan. Bring pen and paper and write down trouble Code that their scanner shows. Clerk should be able to tell you, but you want the Code so your can price repair.Once you get Codes you can call and price work. A few can be done without much effort. Unfortunately the ABS may be a victim of heavy braking. The ABS can be checked with a better scanner(Not all are equal).Try tightening the gascap, although each time you added fuel additives you did that, know that one Code may be related to a loose cap.Think back about your gas purchase. The cheapest is E85. If you put this in your car, it is not made for it. If this is what happened, then it will give a Mechanic a better idea of everything broken.

This is a common complaint on these cars. I own a 96 myself.
Assuming that you engine is fine and runs smoothly under normal operation, and just is rough "feeling" at idle while stopped; then I would suggest changing the motor mounts...the mounts may not be broken, but the rubber isolators get worn and soft, and transffer normal engine vibration into the chasis of the vehicle. Mine was doing the same after changing the mounts good as new again.
Please note...don't use cheap mounts, by the better grade/quality mounts.

there are 2 things that usually cause this, one is a dirty intake idle control valve and the other is hard engine mounts, I would say that both most likely apply to your car. try cleaning the intake with the following procedure from Ford.Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.