Free Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern Miranda Slouch

“Miranda” Adult Slouch Hat

This free slouch hat crochet pattern was inspired by a great women, who helped me tremendously and formatted this blog for me, Miranda of Work at Home Adventures. She is the sister to fellow hooker Corina Gray of Stitch 11. Corina and Miranda are also joint owners of the new up and coming free crochet pattern directory The Yarn Box.

This slouch hat is an intermediate pattern but can easily be modified for a beginner by changing a few stitches {changes will be in brackets}

This pattern is written for adults but you can find the pre-teen to young teen size here (I would estimate that the pre-teen pattern would comfortably fit a 9-14 yo). The sizing is very forgiving because of the design of the hat. More pattern sizes will be coming soon.

I have worked this one up using two different types of yarn, Red Heart and Caron’s One Pounder, both work well but I prefer the Caron’s in this application.

ps– puff stitch
yarn over *(YO) insert hook in stitch, YO and draw up loop ** (three loops on hook). Repeat from * to ** (five loops on hook). YO and pull through all five loops. (this is technically not a complete ps, most puff stitches have an additional YO and draw through with seven loops left on hook before the final pull through).

yarn over, insert hook, pull through, yarn over, insert hook into same space, yarn over, pull through, ( five loops on hook) yarn over and pull through all five loops

fpdc- front post double crochetsame as double crochet except hook is inserted behind the post (from back to front) of the previous dc and not in the normal space

cs sc- crab stitch single crochetworked the like a normal single crochet except done in the opposite direction, you will be working backward along the previous row. Loop will need to be slightly loose to accomplish this. Pull up slightly on loop and insert it into the previous space, yarn over and pull through, repeat until end.

Notes:

Like most of my patterns this hat is worked as seamlessly as possible. Instructions are in pattern.
You will know that you are working in the right way because all decreases and increases will end in the last space.

ch1, sk next sp, 2ps in every sp, last two stitches will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <20st>

ch1, sk next sp, ps around, working 2ps into every other sp (1ps, 2ps, 1 ps, 2ps around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <30st>

ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 3rd sp (1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <40st>

ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 4th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <50st>

ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 5th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <60st>

ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 6th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <70st>

ch 1, sk next sp, ps around working 2ps in every 7th sp (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 2ps, around), last 2ps will be placed into the previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <80st>

ch1, sk next sp, ps around working 1ps in every stitch, last ps will be placed in previous sk sp (working over the ch 1), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <100st>

ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 9th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <90st>

ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 8th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <80st>

ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 7th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <70st>

ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 6th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <60st>

ch1 sk next sp, ps around working dec2tog ps in every 5th sp, (1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1ps, 1dec2tog ps around), last dec2tog ps will be worked between ch1 (1st part of st before ch1 and 2nd part of st after the ch1, in the previous sk sp), sl st (in sp before 1st ps) to join <50st>

{for beginner, or if you do not want to do front post crochet around, make 5-6 rows of sc instead and finish with one row of sl st}

ch1, sk next sp, 1dc in next sp, 1fpdc in next sp, work around alternating dc and fpdc, last dc will be placed in previous sk sp, sl st (in space before 1st dc) to join <50st>

ch1, sk next sp, 1dc in next sp, 1fpdc in next sp, work around alternating dc and fpdc, last fpdc will be placed in previous sk sp, sl st (in space before 1st dc) to join <50st>

cs around to finish <50 st>. To finish you will cut yarn about 6” long after last cs (do not sl st to join) and pull yarn all the way through after completing st. Thread tapestry needle and insert into the sp between the loop of first cs, pull through to inside of hat and secure with knot, weave in ends to finish. Weave in tail of mc/r.

This pattern is also available as a PDF for the cost of $2. You will be rerouted to Craftsy for the purchase of this instant download. This fee is to offset revenue lost when pattern is printed and a visit to this site is not required.

Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet and has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments and strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful. Lorene was named one of the Top Ten Designers by The Yarn Box in 2012, and named a Top Blogger by AllFreeCrochet in 2013, 2014 and 2015. Lorene has many patterns published by Red Heart Yarns.

Comments

I fell in love with this hat as soon as I saw it, so I started making right away. I’m still a begginer so it took me a long time to figure it out at the beggining.
Anyway, by the time I was done I noticed how small it was! It fits my 2 1/2 year old. What did I do wrong? I made the right amount of rounds. Should I have used a looser tention on my puff stitches? Or maybe, did I use the wrong type of yarn (Bernat satin worsted weight)?
I would like to try again…so please help?

yes the satin is really THIN. I would recommend either Caron’s One Pounder (not the Simply Soft, that is also really thin) or Red Heart, or Vannas Choice(though I haven’t tried it in the Vanna’s). You may also need to go up in hook size. I crochet pretty loose so maybe you should use half a size larger on your hook. At least it fits your daughter, and won’t be wasted, lol. If you have any problems with the other yarn please let me know. I have made this hat 3-4x and it is my most popular pattern, this is the first time I’m hearing about it not working out well so please let me know.

I’m about halfway through the hat and I’m noticing that mine is coming up really small as well. I crochet pretty tight.
What is your gauge on this? That would REALLY help me in picking the right size hook for this.

Unfortunately I didn’t take measurements on this one, but I will try to pull one out today (I have one left somewhere) and measure it for you. Please email me at cre8tion@ymail.com if you don’t hear from me by the end of the day (in case I forget) Thanks.

haven’t check my email yet today. I did not even look yet, totally forgot… I will grab it now!!! The 1st two rounds measure 2.5″ for me. I think the Caron’s One Pounder may be slightly thicker than Red Heart. Try a half or whole size larger hook. If that doesn’t work than you may need to add one or two increasing rounds (and therefore decreasing rounds too). The total width of my finished hat is 12″. Hope this helps. If you need more info or help please let me know.

Very pretty hat! I am trying to make one but can not seem to get the puff stitch right and am wondering if there is an explanation that could be given with how many loops i am pulling through on each part of the stitch or a video tutorial. My loops on the hook do not seem to be matching up and i am getting lost with it. Thank you in advance!!

It is listed in the pattern, but I’ll make it clearer because it is a little ambiguous… here is the correction.

PS- puff stitch- yarn over *(YO) insert hook in stitch, YO and draw up loop ** (three loops on hook). Repeat from * to ** (five loops on hook). YO and pull through all five loops. (this is technically not a complete ps, most puff stitches have an additional YO and draw through with seven loops left on hook before the final pull through).

Hi, Lorene! This is the second of your patterns I have made! I loved the bulky cowl. Keep finding your beautiful patterns through Pinterest! Question on this hat… I see some pictures look like it is slouching in the back more than others. I recently made a slouchy hat of a different pattern and it wasn’t slouchy enough like the brown hat in your photo. I am worried that with only 20-21 rows it may not be slouchy enough. Has anyone said this? If as I make it it needs to be slouchier then which row(s) would be best to repeat? By the way this pattern is also mathematically very satisfying and easy to memorize! (Also LOVE the seamless instructions in your patterns)

Thank you. This particular slouch hat is wide as opposed to long, if that makes sense. However you can always add a few more of the widest rounds before decreasing again if you would like it longer. I’m so glad you are liking my patterns so far!

Ya know I don’t have this hat any longer and I have no idea.. but I pull up on my stitches a bit when I crochet, so mine are probably taller than yours. So add a couple rows and or use a larger hook, just to be safe!

Hi! What a gorgeous hat! I got 4 rows in and I notice that the circle isn’t laying flat, but kind of wobbling up at the increases. Usually when I make hats, the circle lays flat. Is the wobble normal on this one? Thanks!

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