You can now add the vehicles you own to your profile as little icons that appear in your profile and alongside your posts.
This is a bit of an experiment. Take a look under the "REWARDS" menu across the top of the screen for the vehicles "ADD/MODIFY" option.
Let me know how you get on.

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A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.

Changing alternator belt

Tightened the original belt up earlier and it snapped got a new one coming tomorrow how easy to it to fit one? Would the radiator have to come off and do you need to remove the power steering belt i found tightening it was easy

The power steering belt does have a tensioner that needs to be slackened off and re-tensioned and obviously it comes off first and goes on last. Be very careful of touching the rad core and quite honestly the time it takes to remove and fit is well worth the extra hassle and drama of scrapped knuckles etc

Removing the rad allows you the opportunity to back flow both the rad and the block to ensure there is no gunge build up and allows you to replace with new anti- freeze as another bonus. As far as bleeding goes just fill up to brim and with the cap off run the engine till hot an level right and then place what is needed in overflow bottle.
Taking the rad off needs the rad shroud to be unbolted and the fan blades removed along with disconnecting top and bottom hose. The shroud is held towards the engine to allow the rad to be lifted out the top after removing the top bolts. There is a tap at the base of the rad on the nearside for draining into a bowl.

You don't need to remove the fan blades (well not on a 2001 anyway)
Assuming you don't have aircon (with a condenser radiator), or an auto (with an oil cooler)

From underneath

Drain water via the drain plug at the bottom right of radiator as you face the engine. It is plastic, and will be stuck, so use pliers to grip the rim of the plug, not the tabs and it will move without snapping the tabs off. (take the radiator cap off to let air in and it drains faster)

Unclip the rubber hoses at the radiator and pull off, and the rest of the water comes out and goes up your sleeve.
Tighten the drain tap now.

(cover the coolant bucket so doggies can't drink it, as it is sweet and toxic, or dispose of now, and replace with fresh)

Undo the 4 10mm AF bolts holding the fan shroud (2 top, 2 under the car at the bottom) and push the fan shroud right back towards the engine. The bottom ones have a square captive nut in the radiator that can fall out like mine did.

Undo the 2 10mm AF bolts at the top of the radiator, one each side, that hold it in, and the radiator will pull up as the bottom is simply 2 pegs into rubber grommets. The radiator will tilt outwards at the bottom into the space behind the bumper and lift out.

Remove the fan shroud.

Slacken the 2 power steering tensioner bolts M12 AF and put a 10mm AF hex key through the hole in the centre. Rotate the whole pulley and the belt comes off easy.

Slacken the alternator lower pivot bolt, and the adjuster bolts and push it right toward the engine, and put on the new belt 4pk830 or 4pk835/4pk836. The 4pk830 will go on, but you will have to turn the crank and work it on. Adjust the tension, until you can just turn the belt 90 degrees on the long run (which isn't much help, as I can likely turn it 90 degrees if it is over tight... there is a tension meter reading somewhere)
Feed the new power steering belt on 4pk850, tension with the hex key, and secure the 2 tensioner bolts.

Replace the shroud over the fan on the car the right way up/round-don't attach to the radiator yet.

Check the rubber grommets are in the radiator mounts, not stuck to the pegs on the radiator. or it won't go in. (The peg on the radiator expands the grommet so it grips the ring on the mount when the radiator is pushed in)
Slip the radiator into the gap like when you removed it and get the shroud lower edge above the drain spout and lower hose connector. (You can do it after the radiator is bolted in, but it takes a bit of bending of the shroud if you forgot like I did )

Press the radiator down into the rubber grommets and get the two top bolts in.

Bolt the shroud back on (the bottom bolts are the ones with the big washer, the nut is a square pushed into a slot in the radiator. One of mine fell out then needed a screwdriver pushed into the slot behind it to start the bolt) and replace all the hoses.

Fill with coolant, squeeze the top hose in and out to expel air towards the end and it will eventually fill right up.
Replace radiator cap.
Run the engine until the heater blows hot and allow to cool, then top up the radiator right to the top and expansion tank to the full line.
After the road test, allow to cool, and top up the expansion tank to the mark.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

Mine has air con as well as power steering (2002) but found it quite easy to change both belts without removing the rad, but you might graze your knuckles on the fins of the rad....
compared to modern cars and how fiddly most things are this was not that bad...
Facades pic of the tensioner pulley will be a great help to see how it works and what it does... I found out the hard way by taking it off to have a look as not really possible to work it out while its in situ... Live and learn though... lol