I made a test with the D800 of fellow photographer Ulrich (the guy on the picture) using my 85/1,4 AF-S at f/1,4, 1/2500th, ISO 100.

The hand had a heavy orange CA and the grey shirt suffered from purple fringing, turning it into a magenta tint.

I was advised by Erik to use the tools for removing fringing and CA in LR and after that it looked like this:

Purple fringing on the shirt was reduced to an acceptable extend, but the CA above the hand was still visible, even though it had less saturation. Erik suggested to move the hue slider, but that caused side effects like the desaturation of parts of the hand.

I was also told at f/4 the effect will have been gone, but thats not the point. I always used the maximum aperture of my lenses for a pleasing background rendition. Using the HC 150 (and other lenses like 80/2,8, 100/2,2, 210/4 and 300/4,5) at maximum aperture on my H3D39 causes some purple fringing, but much much less and absolutely no CA.

So if I´d buy a D800 to replace the Hasselblad from time to time in order to shoot a bit faster, more handheld and to carry less weight, what would be your suggestions for a quick and easy removal of the unwanted effects?

Currently I use a D700. Magnification at 12MP is much less, so the CA did not become visible.

I guess it shows that a 36MP sensor needs very good lenses.. the MPs outgrow the quality of the lenses...It is time for Nikon to built a new league of lenses made for 36mp+... with very fast autofocus if they can. ( as fast as the 70-200)The non autofocus lenses will be covered by Zeiss..so let them start with a good 50mm, because they simply do not have any good one... there best 50mm costs less then 400€ (?!)

Bernd,honestly using wide aperture lenses always at maximum aperture is usually wrong. It's know that not so many great lenses are great even at widest apertures.For a 36 MP sensor that LoCa is not that extreme to me.You may just need to set an overall value, as you did, and take a local adjustment brush with high defringe control to minimize the issue.Again, can't find nothing outrageous on that hand.

I'm not a MF shooter, so I can't tell anything about MF lenses always used at maximum apertures.

I guess it shows that a 36MP sensor needs very good lenses.. the MPs outgrow the quality of the lenses...It is time for Nikon to built a new league of lenses made for 36mp+... with very fast autofocus if they can. ( as fast as the 70-200)The non autofocus lenses will be covered by Zeiss..so let them start with a good 50mm, because they simply do not have any good one... there best 50mm costs less then 400€ (?!)

OK, sounds like a joke to me .... In 2009 using the D700 I replaced my 85/1,4 AIS for an 85/1,4 AF-D for 1.200,- EUR. Last year I sold the AF-D on ebay for 700,- EUR to buy the AF-S for 1.500,- EUR. Just to find out it is useless with 36MP?

For my Hasselblad HC 150/3,2 I payed EUR 1.000,- sh and it is simply stunning. I do not even see the reason why to upgrade to Version II.Same with the HC 2,8/80, which is perfectly sharp at any aperture and gives pleasant bokeh. No comparison to the poor 50/1,4 AF-S.

Bernd,honestly using wide aperture lenses always at maximum aperture is usually wrong. It's know that not so many great lenses are great even at widest apertures.For a 36 MP sensor that LoCa is not that extreme to me.You may just need to set an overall value, as you did, and take a local adjustment brush with high defringe control to minimize the issue.Again, can't find nothing outrageous on that hand.

I'm not a MF shooter, so I can't tell anything about MF lenses always used at maximum apertures.

Just my 2 cents...

Go and tell Bruce Weber: "Dear Mr. Weber, honestly ....." Tell it to Hans Feurer, too. To Peter Lindbergh. And all the others....

Why buying expensive lenses, if they don´t do their job properly? And why does it work with my Hasselblad HC lenses?

Go and tell Bruce Weber: "Dear Mr. Weber, honestly ....." Tell it to Hans Feurer, too. To Peter Lindbergh. And all the others....

"Usually" means not in any single case.Some kind of shots may revel a severe issue, others won't. Maybe it's just a faulty lens. Maybe moving/tilting a little would have reduced the effect. You showed a shot, maybe thousands of other shots didn't produce any severe CA.What are you exactly trying to get from this thread? What's your point?

Again, MF lenses are different on many aspects, and price reflects that.

You showed a shot, maybe thousands of other shots didn't produce any severe CA.What are you exactly trying to get from this thread? What's your point?

Yes, you are right. It is just a single shot from a 20min. test. So lets hope it was just the coincidences.

What I´m trying to get here is: for me shooting MF and processing the files in Phocus and Photoshop has always been more effort than using my D700. Many jobs I did with the D700 I completely processed in LR without doing anything in Photoshop afterwards. My hope with the D800 was to get the easy workflow I have with my D700 but with the resolution of my H3D39. This dream comes to an end when there are problems that can´t be solved in LR and would require Photoshop again.

So my question is: did I miss something in LR? Is there another tool to come by this "LoCA Longitudional Chromatic Aberration" even if it is that strong? Or if there is no other tool, than the one next to lens profiles: did it use it correctly?

My take on the issue is that what you see is longitudinal chromatic aberration, also know as color bokeh. It is one of the the classic aberration. Unfortunately almost all large aperture lenses suffer from it. The only exceptions I know of are not really large aperture. It affects the Zeiss Sonnars, Leica S2 lenses with very, very few exceptions. The high resolution of the D800 enhances the perception of the aberration, but it is always there.

Why HC lenses don't show this? A few reasons:

1) There are no f/1.4 HC-lenses

2) Digital backs for the H-system do not have a physical resolution even close to the D800

Yes, you are right. It is just a single shot from a 20min. test. So lets hope it was just the coincidences.

What I´m trying to get here is: for me shooting MF and processing the files in Phocus and Photoshop has always been more effort than using my D700. Many jobs I did with the D700 I completely processed in LR without doing anything in Photoshop afterwards. My hope with the D800 was to get the easy workflow I have with my D700 but with the resolution of my H3D39. This dream comes to an end when there are problems that can´t be solved in LR and would require Photoshop again.

So my question is: did I miss something in LR? Is there another tool to come by this "LoCA Longitudional Chromatic Aberration" even if it is that strong? Or if there is no other tool, than the one next to lens profiles: did it use it correctly?

Bernd, that pixel peeping will get you in trouble . Seriously, the 85 1.4G is the best lens I have for my D800. The only time I've had any purple fringing is shooting towards the sun with a lot of bright highlights (in particular rapids in a river). At f2 and smaller, the 85 is pretty incredible.

Now I´m trying to find the tool to paint CA removal instead of applying it globally.... I thought the LR correction brush was only lighter, darker, contrast, tint and so on .... OK, I realized "remove moiré" but below that is "rand entfernen" in German. Is this the tool you used?

Now I´m trying to find the tool to paint CA removal instead of applying it globally.... I thought the LR correction brush was only lighter, darker, contrast, tint and so on .... OK, I realized "remove moiré" but below that is "rand entfernen" in German. Is this the tool you used?

Thanks a lot!

Bernd

You're welcome Actually I use Lightroom in english because italian localization is... well... uhm... questionable? It's the last one, so I'd say yes.I set it on +100 (and you can stack several brushes to add effect) and carefully painted on magenta lines, then removed the skin alone using automask on the hand edge.Remember not to treat the CA eyedropper tool as the Gospel. It's often good on a first try but for these case you really have to set the sliders manually.