Also if there is something that doesnt look correct please point it out.

40.5mm piston = 1288 mm^2
38mm piston = 1134 mm^2

That's a 12% reduction in area. I guess it's all in how you define "barely noticeable".

True. Now im not a brake engineer or anything but I would think that if I decided to go with the 12.2 TL rotor from Racing Brake and stick with the stock rear brakes, the brakes would be improved overall. The rear OEM caliper would have 12% increase over the TL rear caliper.
[/quote]
What this thread is grasping at is the comparison of [rotor radius X piston area X coefficient of pads] for various setups. I labeled the resulting value the "torque factor" for a given brake setup. Those are the primary parameters needed to determine friction torque of the brake system. Anytime one of those variables changes, you need to reassess the torque factor.

If you decrease piston area, increase rotor radius and maintain the same pad material coefficient of friction, the braking torque could remain constant. Looking at the numbers will give you an analytic comparison instead of an educated guess.

Determining the proper rotor radius to use is not as easy as taking the rotor diameter divided by 2. You need to consider where on the rotor the pads will sit. Then you need to determine the centroid of the pad face. Note: centroid does not equal the average of the inner pad radius and outer pad radius. The shape of the pad is important. The distance between the rotation axis and the centroid point is the effective rotor radius.

Using terms and phrases like "brakes would be improved overall", "barely noticeable", etc. are subjective for comparison of braking systems. Show the numbers, test the setups and let the numbers do the talking. Other characteristics you'll want to document are consumable part costs, weight of components, availability of consumables, etc.

If done properly, there are probably some cool brake conversions out there.
[/quote]

Alot more is involved than I thought lol. I do agree with having some data to show pros/cons. However I WILL try to get some data within the next couple months(probly on a dyno). I will update the first post with more info as we go. Really hope this turns out great!

It sounds like an adjustable prop valve will fix the biasing. The question still remains if the tl-s calipers are acceptable for our application. Keep in mind you would be putting the left on the right side and the right on the left side. So the calipers will be working in reverse.

It sounds like an adjustable prop valve will fix the biasing. The question still remains if the tl-s calipers are acceptable for our application. Keep in mind you would be putting the left on the right side and the right on the left side. So the calipers will be working in reverse.

I think it would be best to call/email a couple different brake manufacturers to get the real answer. I'd only be guessing lol. The next update, hopefully with pictures should be in about 2 weeks.

It sounds like an adjustable prop valve will fix the biasing. The question still remains if the tl-s calipers are acceptable for our application. Keep in mind you would be putting the left on the right side and the right on the left side. So the calipers will be working in reverse.

Also keep in mind the TL-S calipers feature asymmetric pistons. They are designed for a specific rotation direction of the rotor. You probably wouldn't want to mount the "right" caliper on the left side and vice versa.

It sounds like an adjustable prop valve will fix the biasing. The question still remains if the tl-s calipers are acceptable for our application. Keep in mind you would be putting the left on the right side and the right on the left side. So the calipers will be working in reverse.

Also keep in mind the TL-S calipers feature asymmetric pistons. They are designed for a specific rotation direction of the rotor. You probably wouldn't want to mount the "right" caliper on the left side and vice versa.

Okay so i have the caliper and in order for these to work out we will need a 7mm spacer bebind the rotor or shave off 7mm off the mounting points. You can also run a 3mm spacer and shave off 4mm from the mounting points as well.

Will post pictures soon.

*Edit*

1997-2005 Acura NSX front rotor seem to tbe the best choice for rotors. This leaves me with only having to shave off 3.4mm off of the mounting bracket on the caliper(alot safer than the full 7mm). And of course you can always just add a 4mm hubcentric spacer if you didnt want to machine the calipers.