Contributed Comments

Comments: The new edition of the Lander guidebook is due out this spring. I wrote the description for the Lander Area assuming that it would be up for a while and I was a little premature in describing the guidebook.

Comments: This was a closed project of Piana, if memory serves. Just because someone stole the first repoint, and so amazingly on sighted it (wow, 5.13d, that almost never happens!), does not make it their route.

Comments: The fire from a few weeks back has done almost nothing to the cliff itself. It barely touched the cliff face. One kind of obscure route, Praying to the Aliens, was scorched. A bush at the bottom of Blushing Crow also burned and a few footholds at the start are now blackened, but that is all. The walk up to the Addiction wall goes straight through the middle of the burn zone and it will be interesting to see how much erosion occurs there. Otherwise it's been really good for the last few week... more >>

Comments: Lee- thanks for the praise, but you are definitely a stronger bastard than I will ever be. Guess I will take the 10- grade, since it means that I have actually accomplished a long term goal of mine, if only in retrospect.

Comments: I think I did the first ascent of this problem with Adam Barber around 2001or 2002. Adam did the "First Arete" to its right and a few days later I was able to send this one. I called it The Valsalva Maneuver (which is the act of bearing down to take a dump), as it requires a bit of tension to do the crux. We assumed that our "first ascents" were really repeats of Bob Murray problems as he was known to get around. I wonder if the problem has broken or something because I felt it was about v8.... more >>

Comments: NFR (Nation Finals Rodeo) is just left of this route. Finally redpointed by BJ Tilden this week at 5.13d. Gored is to the right of Two Kinds, then there is a 11d/12a (not completely sure of grade) to the right called In Todd We Trust that goes up a dihedral/crack feature.

Comments: There is a "Rock and Road" type database on desnivel.com that lists the areas in Spain, number and type of routes, closest camping/water/food, etc. The direct link for the English version is escuelasdeescalada.com/ingles/...

Comments: Hey Bob, Sorry if this wall has another name (not the Sanctuary). BJ Tilden and I put up a bunch of routes last year and didn't think it had a name. Do you call it something else? I can edit the info here if you do...

Comments: This climb is called Finnigan's Ladder. I did it with Jessie Stover back in 1993. I think it's a dumb name, but Jessie really wanted it to be called that. It's a song by Firehose or something. I also talked to Rob Kelman shortly after the first ascent. He claimed that he and another guy had done it without any bolts. I find that hard to believe, but whatever. Justin- why do they call you Squatting Bear?

Comments: I don't think Gunky is PG13. It has good gear the whole way if I remember correctly. The route is a bit sandy, but safe. Don't be detoured as the route is really worth doing and a fun outing.

Comments: I am posting this area just to see if anyone has ever climbed here. We took a trip this weekend to scope out new route potential and found a really good 350 foot arete route that we want to go back and try to free next week. It was a fun trip and the place is magical- good rock with LOTS of potential for adventure climbing. It is in the middle of nowhere and the approach is pretty epic, but for the climber with the right mindset (i.e. first ascents in a remote setting) it would be a great are... more >>

Comments: If you are doing the Cirque Traverse, this is the easiest/fastest way to get to the top of Pingora. You can simul-climb the last bit of pitch one/two(probably 220 feet) and then hurry up the K crack pitch (pitch 3 as described in Bechtel's guide), then scramble up to the top. We did it in about 40 minutes and we weren't moving too fast. The rappel down to the notch by Tiger Tower/Wolf's Head is not as obvious as described in the new guide. You need to head to climber's left to get to the se... more >>