The Bistro Don Giavanni Burger as seen in San Francisco, California, Wednesday, June 27, 2012. Food styled by Sarah Fritsche.

The Bistro Don Giavanni Burger as seen in San Francisco, California, Wednesday, June 27, 2012. Food styled by Sarah Fritsche.

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

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The bun, the 30/70 ratio, the generous slather of aioli, the salt and the onion as seen in San Francisco, California, Wednesday, June 27, 2012. This is the secret ingredients of the Bistro Don Giavanni Burger.

The bun, the 30/70 ratio, the generous slather of aioli, the salt and the onion as seen in San Francisco, California, Wednesday, June 27, 2012. This is the secret ingredients of the Bistro Don Giavanni Burger.

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

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Secrets of Bistro Don Giovanni's burger

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I fell in love with the hamburger at Bistro Don Giovanni when I first tasted it several years ago. I felt as if I were in a Carl's Jr. ad when the hot juices mixed with garlicky aioli began to drip down my chin and pool on the table - not that the burger tasted anything like a fast-food version.

The next time, I was prepared. This is one of the juiciest, most interesting burgers around.

The restaurant uses about 8 ounces of meat for each burger, which is salted before it's made into a patty. The bun is made of focaccia dough, baked daily, then grilled and generously slathered with aioli. Cheese is optional. The burger is served with pickles, lettuce, tomatoes, grilled purple onions and a stack of extra crispy deep-fried onion rings.

Chef-owner Donna Scala put the burger on the menu after she fell in love with the version served at Harry's Bar in Florence. But it's just one of the things that entice me to return to Bistro Don Giovanni.

I also love the fritto misto with rock shrimp, calamari, green beans, fennel and onions with a spicy aioli dipping sauce; exceptional pizzas such as the BLT with tomatoes, pancetta, arugula and four cheeses; and pastas and main courses such as seared salmon with buttermilk smashed potatoes. Still, it's hard to pass up this burger.

The restaurant encapsulates a Wine Country fantasy. The patio is covered on two sides and overlooks vineyards and a manicured fountain and garden. Even the parking lot is landscaped with plantings. On the opposite side of the property, next to Highway 29 but protected by a row of hedges, is the kitchen garden and dozens of flowers and rosebushes.

It's one of the most civilized places to have one of the best burgers in the Bay Area.

The secrets

Salting the meat: The ground chuck is generously salted before being formed into loose patties.

Bun: Made from focaccia dough, the buns are baked daily and grilled at serving time.

Aioli: It's made in house, and used generously - up to 2 tablespoons.

Grilled onions: These add just the right amount of smokiness and soft crunch to the patty.

Bistro Don Giovanni's Bistro Burger

Serves 6-8

This straightforward burger adapted from Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa hits all the right notes, from homemade bun to the aioli. If you try making it with leaner beef, the results won't be the same. The aioli and patties can be made ahead.

Aioli

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon salt

1 large egg yolk

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Onions

3 large red onions

-- Olive oil, as needed

-- Kosher salt

-- Freshly ground black pepper

Patties

3 pounds freshly ground chuck (70% lean)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Garnish

-- Hamburger buns (see recipe below or purchase)

-- Thickly sliced tomatoes

-- Green leaf lettuce

For the aioli: Make a smooth paste with garlic and salt by pounding them in a mortar and pestle. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, smash them on a cutting board with the side of a large knife, then smear them around. Leave the pounded paste in the mortar, or put it in a small mixing bowl. With a small wire whisk, stir the egg yolk into the paste until smooth. Slowly drizzle the oil into the bowl, whisking continuously. The sauce will be tight, intensely garlicky and sticky when finished. If you want a lighter sauce, whisk in a little water to loosen it up. Set aside or refrigerate until ready to use.

For the onions and meat: Peel and slice onions thickly, about 3/8 - to 1/2-inch. Run a skewer crosswise through the diameter to help hold the rings together. (If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes first.) Brush the onion slices with olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill onions over medium heat, turning at least once, until caramelized and tender, about 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile, spread the meat out in a shallow pan; sprinkle evenly with about 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Gently work the seasoning into the meat. Be sure not to overwork the meat or it will be tough when cooked.

Divide into 6 to 8 portions. Shape into balls and gently flatten to desired thickness. Refrigerate until ready to use, or grill right away to desired doneness.

To finish: Cut the buns in half and lightly toast on the grill. Smear buns with aioli and top with the grilled patties and onions; serve tomatoes and lettuce on the side.

Wine pairing: The burger is terrific with a somewhat tannic wine, but the sweet grilled onions prefer something smoother. Try a Carmenere or a Malbec.

Focaccia Hamburger Buns

Makes 12

These buns are adapted from the ones made at Bistro Don Giovanni. If you use active dry yeast instead of the instant, it will take longer to proof. The buns can be made ahead, wrapped well and frozen for a couple of weeks.

2 1/4 cups whole milk

1/2 ounce instant dry yeast, about 1 1/2 tablespoons

1/4 cup olive oil + more as needed

5 1/3cups all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons salt

Instructions: Line two rimmed baking pans with parchment; set aside.

Warm milk to about 100°-110° and pour into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the yeast and the 1/4 cup olive oil. Whisk to dissolve the yeast, then add the flour and salt. Mix on low speed until all the flour is incorporated. Increase the speed to medium, and continue to mix for about 2 more minutes.

Put the dough in an oiled bowl; turn to coat all sides with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in a warm place to rise until almost doubled, about 30 minutes. The dough should barely spring back pressed gently with your fingers.

Move oven racks to the middle and bottom third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425° (400° if using a convection oven).