A marisqueria specializing in Sinaloense-style seafood, El Zarandeado takes a craftsman’s approach to your meals. There’s the molcajete Sinaloense, in which a basalt mortar is filled with mariscos and a pureed green chile sauce, then baked; the cocomarisco, a young coconut emptied of its water and packed with a mix of marinated seafood and young coconut flesh; and above all, el zarandeado itself, a grey snapper “cult object” that needs to be ordered an hour ahead of time.