Many American tailor recall how their first foray into the world of garment cutting started with the New Mitchell System. The system remains popular amongst some American tailors. The system was published by Men's Modes, a tailoring journal of which Frank Doblin was the chief technical editor.

The most interesting feature of the system is the routine use of a Donlon wedge for all proportionate patterns as a way of clipping the front edge, but also to reduce distortion from waist suppression. Another feature of the system is the importance placed on the so-called "free zone", the manipulation of which allows the expansion of the chest and the addition of drape to a cut, interestingly while avoiding advancing the neckpoint. Those raised on British terminology should note that the "strap" is American English for the front shoulder. The term "sack coat" here is just the traditional American cutter's term for a lounge coat in British English, and does not per se imply any particular style of cut.

I have this book, but have not used it much- I do remember thinking there were some typographical errors that perhaps did not get caught before printing.

This is the system I currently use and, yes, it is full of errors. But worth working them out.I had played with it some back in the 80's, but with "Old Henry's" encouragement, I have put it into my routine this time around.

I also found a retired tailor locally that successfully made no less than a few thousand clerical sack and clerical frock coats with this system.I am experimenting with those drafts currently (when I have time!)

Topic updated. The sack coat section is almost complete now. Eventually, I will put the entire book up.

I have decided to pin this thread so that we have examples of classic Continental, British and American cutting systems pinned for the purpose of study and comparison. This is the only reason for pinning this thread. Please don't read any more into it this decision that that. It is not because I am an evangelist for this - or any other - cutting system pinned here.

I'm none to fond of it either, though the sleeve draft seems good and fairly fool proof. The topside hip bow on the Mitchell trouser is crazy round and I can only get it to look good by adding a pleat at the pelvic bone or shifting the tops out a wee bit. The finished product does look good as I know a tailor who uses this system and seen many examples. However, the cut, as drafted does produce the classic 50's tight hip and semi wide shoulder look. The one part that does boggle the mind is he places the hip prominence 4" below the waist line instead of the typical 8"