Thread: Lawn Renovation Job

I got a call from this woman that needs a lawn renovation basically. She doesn't know whether she wants seed or sod, so she wants quotes for both. The yard is about 7400 sq. ft., real patchy and weedy. So I'm thinking about actually giving her 3 quotes. One for sod, one for powerseeding, and one for tilling and power seeding. My only problem is I don't know how long it will take.

If I put down sod, I am thinking about 3-4 - 8 hour days, after tilling and laying the sod, and putting out the water timers, and so on.

Just overseeding/powerseeding, I know it will probably be about a day.

For tilling/powerseeding, after I clean up all the debris from tilling, I am thinking about 2.5 days.

I have thought about just marking up the product by 25 percent, then doubling my materials, but I would like to see where I would come out as far as time goes, and compare the two. Thanks in advance.

I think sod is the way to go. You don't have to worry so much about whether or not the seed will come up. With seed, callbacks are much too common. Just make it clear she must have the check in your hand when about half the sod is laid. Never guarantee either one.

Naturally you will want to use glyphosate on the weeds and weedy grasses 2 weeks in advance. (Maybe you can do the Roundup only 24 hours in advance--ask around). Cut short. Remove dead grass. Till up slightly. Green side up. Add plenty of water. Perfect green lawn.

More experienced guys will have different ideas so listen up...

If you decide to remove and dispose of sod with a sod cutter and dump truck --major labor. If you decide to till up old sod--you will have thousands of clumps of old sod to dispose of.

You should charge for your labor cost, not markup the seed. Say 60 dollars pr hour for labor (if you are educated or skilled), Double that if you have to sweat. Full cost plus trip charge and gas for any machine you have to rent.

What do you mean patchy and weedy? Why not kill the weeds and crabgrass--and seed the thin spots? What kind of weeds? Is this Bermuda? KBG? Fescue? And...its important to correct the cause of the bad lawn...or it will happen again.

What do you mean patchy and weedy? Why not kill the weeds and crabgrass--and seed the thin spots? What kind of weeds? Is this Bermuda? KBG? Fescue? And...its important to correct the cause of the bad lawn...or it will happen again.

Well, for starters, I don't have my applicator's license. Don't want to be caught rounding up someone's lawn and not have that on you in my state. Most fescue/bluegrass mix I believe. I am all on board with overseeding, but if you can't take care of the weeds like you said, what's the point.

Keep in mind that Kentucky bluegrass is very slow and is a weak seedling--often overcome by competition with old grass. If you get any new grass established--it is probably going to be perennial rye--use a top quality perennial rye. Make sure it claims to be disease resistant to the three most common diseases in your area. Red thread, gray leaf spot and brown patch.

Well, I think it's due to the fact that it's been neglected for years. No overseeding, no fertilizer, no nothing. It has little patches of fescue I think growing, or barely. I think if I overseed and fertilize, it should come out pretty decent before the end of this season, and even better by next spring. But, the client is sold almost on lawn renovation, so if she wants to fork out more money before trying to cheaply fix it before hand is completely up to here.