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Topic Review (Newest First)

10-29-2009 03:07 PM

Coletrane

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmichaelre

Thanks for the info coletrane...question did you mean your balancer dint like 6700 rpms? If so how would you tell?

NP... the rubber isolator ring that seperates the inner/outer rings is squirting out & the outer ring has moved inboard lil over 1/4".....Engine hasnt been started since...scared of dents in my hood. (sqzbox lmao!)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ap72

Originally Posted by Coletrane
use an oil highER in ZDDP(Rotella 15w40), I pre-oil the engine until I have solid oil pressure, re-stab dist, and fire it off. Run engine, varying RPM(under 2k RPM), checking for fluid leaks(helpers r nice), timing adj, run until engine is 160* or so then I shut it off, check torque on common items, check fluid levels, re-fire engine, final timing and out for a short road test. I personally try to prevent long idle times & hi RPM until break in is believed to be acheived.

FYI, Rotella is no longer as high in ZDDP as MANY people assume. even with diesel oil you still need to use an additive, especailyl with an agressive cam.

Agreed....Ill still use it without any additives(never will), this last cam was a Comp Cams ..253* @ .050 & gross lift .541 No assumptions here....02 Powerstroke is my daily driver 320k on the ticker, Rotella since day one. Diesel Power Mag has had many an article about ZDDP and other anti-wear inhibitors or lack there of in todays lubricants/fuels(ULSD) and its effects on older diesels(pre 05 is old to them)..Ill stick by it then and I will now, no matter the actual amount of cowl inducted fuse inhibitors brand XYZ has in it.. After break in I change out the Rotella and go back my choice of oils for the remainder of usage...thats just me.

10-29-2009 02:56 PM

66GMC

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coletrane

use an oil high in ZDDP(Rotella 15w40)

Unfortunately, that just isn't the case any more.
The older stuff (prior to "SM" IIRC?) had sufficient levels of ZDDP, but not any more.

I'm reasonably sure that this revision became nessecary when they started putting catalytic converters on diesel engines. ZDDP is "poison" to a converter ... plugs 'em up.

There's a lot of info on ZDDP out there if you want to study up on it.
Here are a couple of links.Valvoline

The part that confuses me is ... do you need more ZDDP for break-in, and then cut it back to a "normal" level after that?

Apparently TOO MUCH is not a good thing either.

10-29-2009 02:00 PM

ap72

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coletrane

use an oil high in ZDDP(Rotella 15w40), I pre-oil the engine until I have solid oil pressure, re-stab dist, and fire it off. Run engine, varying RPM(under 2k RPM), checking for fluid leaks(helpers r nice), timing adj, run until engine is 160* or so then I shut it off, check torque on common items, check fluid levels, re-fire engine, final timing and out for a short road test. I personally try to prevent long idle times & hi RPM until break in is believed to be acheived.

FYI, Rotella is no longer as high in ZDDP as MANY people assume. even with diesel oil you still need to use an additive, especailyl with an agressive cam.

10-29-2009 12:22 PM

sqzbox

Maybe it flew apart like mine did once. Nice dent in the hood!

10-29-2009 11:21 AM

jmichaelre

Thanks for the info coletrane...question did you mean your balancer dint like 6700 rpms? If so how would you tell?

10-29-2009 11:02 AM

Coletrane

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmichaelre

I'm building a fresh 350 and should be done in about a week as long as my parts arrive. As far as the breakin I was going to break in the cam based on the instructions by edelbrock, but they didnt specify anything about engine oil during breakin. As far as the rings go, I have moly faced rings and the college I had machine it for me knew that I was using these rings and told me that they would put a fine plateau finish on the cylinders and said that they should seat during cam breakin or very shortly after. Everyone, I have talked to said to use straight 30 until the rings seat, but Im worried that since its so thick and I need this engine in the truck in the next month that temps will be around 40 degrees and I dont want to starve the cam of oil.

As you can see, everyone uses their own distinct plan of attack for proper engine break-in, cam break-in, etc... I would take it ALL in and use what you think works best for your situation/budget/experience. I personally, dont build em everyday, dont do it for a living( im an airplane mech) & have only assembled/installed/driven 4 SBC & 2 BBC in my 32 years. Ive been fortunate, I have never experienced a hyd flat tappet camshaft failure...period. Luck I guess..

I dont over complicate it, I dont have checklists(i prob shld tho)....KISS.. Personally I verify my clearances during build-up, use an oil high in ZDDP(Rotella 15w40), I pre-oil the engine until I have solid oil pressure, re-stab dist, and fire it off. Run engine, varying RPM(under 2k RPM), checking for fluid leaks(helpers r nice), timing adj, run until engine is 160* or so then I shut it off, check torque on common items, check fluid levels, re-fire engine, final timing and out for a short road test. I personally try to prevent long idle times & hi RPM until break in is believed to be acheived. I just built, month or so ago, a 355SBC in my 72 Chevelle and changed the break in oil after apprx 40-45 min of run time. Im still on that 2nd oil & have bout an hour on the engine with no major hiccups..well....stock harmonic balancers dont like 6700..mine didnt anyway. After I change the break-in oil I am pretty hard on em, I dont go out intending on breaking stuff, but Ill give her hell...

Thats my own condensed version, Ive missed stuff that I normally do without thought..but its my personal experience with my own lucky results.

10-29-2009 10:12 AM

cliff tate

cam breakin

some good ifo from mr teck, my take for what its worth, coat the cam with molley, recomended by cam supplyer, first oil fill 5w 20, pre lube untill oil comes out of all rockers. fire up make sure oil and watter ok, take the vehicle out on the road and run at verious speeds. change oil and filter at 500 to 1000milesand install heavey springs if you must.reason for 5 20 is it will flowand splash the cam sooner,the molley will give the needed initial lube protection.and yes with 5 20 you can prelube with your3/8 cordless drill. the only cam failure i was invoved with was in th 60s when i put used lifters with new cam and heavey springs. many engines since with no problems. when service manager for cat dealer in victoria we did 1 3208 pr week, they had flat tapetcams,we reground every cam and lifters(shadbolt cams in van) dynoed every oneright after start up.cliff ps if engine cleaned properly at build no need for early oilchange,and loss of molley

10-29-2009 08:57 AM

jmichaelre

The crank was just turned and the machinist told me to use 10 under bearings

10-29-2009 01:26 AM

techinspector1

Quote:

Originally Posted by sqzbox

Hey, their half owners of the US. Be nice!

Yeah, it's tough figuring out who we will be working for in the future, the Chinese, the One-World-Government power brokers or the Moslems.

10-28-2009 11:12 PM

sqzbox

Hey, their half owners of the US. Be nice!

10-28-2009 08:55 PM

techinspector1

Lots of spam from China lately....

10-28-2009 08:48 PM

ashona

**************

10-28-2009 05:58 PM

ericnova72

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmichaelre

Ok so, I just plastiguaged the mains and i got between .002 and .003 on the middle caps and .003 on the ends caps. Also, keep in mind this is a 75 4bolt block, I torqued the inner bolts to 70 and the outers 65. Do these clearance work ok even though they are not exactly the same?

A little bit to the loose side for a stockish type engine, those are more along the lines of race type clearances, but you will be fine if you use a high volume oil pump.

You can also get bearings that are .001" or .011"(depending on what you have for size now) undersize to take some of it up. You can also use 1/2 a standard and 1/2 a .001" under to get .0005"(half a thousandths)

10-28-2009 05:02 PM

jmichaelre

Ok so, I just plastiguaged the mains and i got between .002 and .003 on the middle caps and .003 on the ends caps. Also, keep in mind this is a 75 4bolt block, I torqued the inner bolts to 70 and the outers 65. Do these clearance work ok even though they are not exactly the same?

10-28-2009 02:55 PM

66GMC

Engine foreplay?
Oh Geez, where would you start?

- Whisper: "Come on baby, I know you want this as much as I do."?
- "I'll be gentle." ? (It is "break-in" after all, right?)
- Buy her a bottle of "Rislone 2009" ?
- a new "dress up kit" ?

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