here are so few tourists in Siwa, that you always notice if somebody
leaves. This oasis, 300 km from the nearest settlement, remains a secret
to most. Siwa's low number of tourists makes writing this article an
ethical dilemma: More tourists, good hotels, and folklore for the
visitors will for ever spoil what makes Siwa what it is.
The natural reason for Siwa's existence, is its being a depression, 18
metres below sea level. All over this old, historical oasis, you find
natural wells where you can spot the bubbles coming up from 15 to 20
metres underneath you. Many of these wells are big enough for bathing,
and the locals won't mind you doing that, either.
When in Siwa, enjoy the lack of luxury. You will eat in simple, but fair
restaurants, that gives away food at criminally low prices. You stay in
hotels that are clean, but basic. And you travel around the place on
bikes with hard seats and one gear only. Siwa is not designed for
hurrying.
You'll get help from the lovely locals to change your Western mind, even
if you'll only meet men and children. When moving around this place,
every child spotting you will stop, start waving, calling "Hello" over
and over again. And there is nothing but friendliness to this. I once
spotted a father teaching his two year old daughter to do this, helping
her to wave her hand, and say "Hello" over and over again. Siwa is one
of those rare places where people are open to strangers, but not
corrupted or oriented towards exploiting a visitor.