The Nikon Creative Lighting System offers a comprehensive selection of revolutionary portable tools to match virtually any need. Whether used for simple on-camera use at a family gathering or in multiple wireless off-camera arrays, Nikon flashes operate in perfect concert with Nikon’s CLS compatible cameras.

Nikon imaging software is as important to imaging excellence as the quality of NIKKOR lenses and the capabilities of Nikon cameras. Powerful, sophisticated Nikon software—a vital link in the chain of creative control of the imaging process.

Whatever your level of experience and with whatever camera brand you shoot, there's a class for you! We will inspire you, help you master new techniques and improve your picture-taking skills by providing clear, direct information on a wide range of technical and creative topics.

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As we develop exciting new products, some older products inevitably must be retired, no matter how beloved. Never to be forgotten, we maintain the key information for these products—tech specs, user manuals and more.

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Nikon Apps include educational apps such as the Learn & Explore, NIKKOR and ACC and Manual Reader 2 apps, as well as the Nikon Image Space image sharing app and apps for connecting select cameras to a compatible smartphone or tablet via Wi-Fi (WMU and Connect to S810c).

Learn & Explore Tip of the Day

August 2, 2015

Use a polarizing filter to lessen or eliminate reflections from glass. This works really well on windows of stores or cars. But the trade-off is that your exposure will be a bit longer, as the light is cut down by almost two stops.

On photo sharing sites like Flickr you can often view the details of a photograph and take a look at the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and other settings. While this won’t teach you how to create a photo from scratch it will show you what technical choices photographers made to capture their images.

If your COOLPIX camera or NIKKOR lens has image stabilization (Nikon calls it Vibration Reduction), know when to use it and when to turn it off. If you don’t know how your stabilization system works, turn it off when you’re shooting with a tripod. If it doesn’t sense that the camera is solidly mounted, it can add movement while trying to reduce blur.

Always use your lens hood (if you have one) or buy a lens hood (if you don’t). The lens hood isn’t just good for preventing flare. It can keep you from losing the contrast of your images as well as protect your front lens element from raindrops too.

When shooting a portrait of an athlete, use fill flash (or flash turned on even in daylight) to light up the shadow areas under a hat or helmet. This will balance the light from the entire scene and light up the face. On a compact camera, the setting to choose is "Flash On."

Look around you when you’re shooting at sunset. The objects that look boring during the day magically come to life when the rays of the sun hit them. Buildings, cars and anything reflective take on a special quality at sunset.

If your camera can capture images in both RAW and JPEG format, do so even if you don’t work with RAW images now. These RAW files have the highest image quality possible, so you can edit them years from now and be sure you’re getting the best looking image possible.

Shooting a lightning storm can be exciting. Use a tripod and set you camera to record a long exposure. With DSLRs, 15 seconds is a good start, but you may have to use up to 30 seconds, or bulb setting (where the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the shutter button). Because you never know when the lightning will occur, keep shooting for best results. Remember to always keep a safe distance, and don’t forget the tripod to avoid blurry photos!

Take a self-portrait each day for a week or month (or a year). It’s harder than you think to take an attractive photo of yourself, and if you do it for long enough you’ll have an interesting series that shows how you’ve changed over time.

Look on photo sharing sites for inspiration for your next photo shoot. Pick a subject you want to photograph or a location and search for photos of that. You’ll see a wide array of different techniques and styles that will inspire you.

Don’t stop shooting after the action has finished in sports. Get in close on a happy or sad face … a celebration after a goal … or the dejection on the sideline after a loss. The emotion of the game speaks volumes and can really round out a series of pictures.

If you live in a city or near a big photo store, find a photographic rental house and rent a lens that you don’t have. Take a telephoto lens to a ball game or rent a wide-angle lens and take it camping. This will give you a chance to try a new piece of equipment and expand your photographic horizons.

You should format the memory card in your camera on a regular basis. By using the camera’s built-in “Format” function, found in the menus, you lessen the chance of having card problems in the future. Doing so is better than just deleting the images using the camera or the computer.

Take a step back. No, farther back. See what the scene looks like from far away to get perspective. Walk around it, to see it from different angles. There’s a tendency to rush up to something and take a photo, but if you look at it from different angles you’re more likely to find something you would otherwise have missed.

Most cameras with built-in flashes have a red-eye reduction setting that fire several quick pre-flashes before the main burst of light. Turn this off if you’re not photographing people because it drains the battery and doesn’t help light up your scene.

Make a great team picture. Get the team together in front of a nice background—maybe the goal, the net or the team logo on the field or floor. Shoot the ordinary, and then let the kids have some fun, making faces or funny poses. That’s the one they will always remember.

At a wedding, watch what the photographer is doing and pick something different to shoot. If the photographer is shooting the cake cutting, take pictures of the band. If the photographer is shooting the bouquet toss with a wide-angle lens from behind the bride, use a telephoto to capture people trying to catch the flowers. You’ll capture a part of the wedding that wouldn’t have been documented otherwise.

It’s always best to shoot group pictures in a location that tells something about the people. For example, shoot the sports team on the field instead of the parking lot. Try to think about how the background, or setting, adds to the story of who they are.

Do some photography pro bono. Find a charitable organization in your area that can’t afford a photographer and offer your services for free. The group will end up with a precious resource it wouldn’t have had access to; and photos of an event or service the organization provides can help it get funding.

Try to buy the fast and large memory cards. Speed ratings on the cards are important for live action shots, especially when you’re shooting in sports or continuous scene modes, or at the highest frame rate. That will allow the camera to shoot at its fastest frame rate with little worry the camera will have to pause to offload images to the card.

Freeze the sports action. The key is using a high shutter speed. On compact cameras, use the sports scene mode. On a DSLR, pick a high shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or above. This will freeze almost all action. If the light is low, adjust your ISO to a higher sensitivity (800-1600 ISO), which will allow you to select a faster shutter speed.

Place your subjects equally away from the camera when shooting a group. Avoid placing any of your subjects a lot closer to your camera than others. That can lead to some of your family members being out of focus or just looking a little out of the mix.

Babies are great subjects because they’re so darn cute. Focus on the teeny body parts with a macro lens. Pudgy hands, small ears, and teeny elbows—they’re even cuter when they’re the subjects of your photo.

Use a small flashlight to light up a scene. Put one behind or under an object at night to create an interesting glow or use it instead of a flash. Take long-exposure shots using a flash as a light source and you can create interesting glowing sections of your photos.

Photographing at the zoo? Careful composition can hide the fact that your wild animal subjects are behind fences or in pens. Zoom in for tight close-ups so you don’t see man-made objects like fence posts, concrete swimming holes or perches for the animals to play on.

When photographing cars, try getting a different perspective. Use a wide-angle lens to capture the hood ornament with the hood stretched out behind. Get low and shoot up on the car. Grab a ladder and shoot a bird’s eye view. You’ll create a photograph that captures a car as art.

When shooting nighttime landscapes, use a low ISO (400 or below if possible) while working from a tripod. Open your aperture to F/4 or F/5.6. This will allow you to have a shot full of detail and of good quality. Remember that night shots need a subject, just like day shots.

Corporate Profile

Nikon is the world leader in digital imaging, precision optics and photo imaging technology and is globally recognized for setting new standards in product design and performance. The unique strength of the Nikon brand attributable to the company’s unwavering commitment to quality, performance, technology and innovation. Nikon Inc. markets and distributes consumer and professional digital SLR cameras, NIKKOR optics, Speedlights…

Affordable, high-quality ‘walk-around’ lens

Weighing just 7.2 oz., this light and compact standard zoom lens produces clear, high-contrast pictures and videos. Its approx. 3.1x zoom covers the popular range of 18–55mm, making it a versatile, go-to lens for everything from portraiture to landscapes. It even lets you shoot close-ups just 0.9-ft. from your subject.

Compact and versatile

3x standard zoom for DX cameras

Optimized for Nikon DX-format D-SLRs, the ultra-compact and lightweight AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II covers the most frequently used focal length range of 18–55mm. This makes it a great choice for a wide variety of shooting situations, from portraits to landscapes to HD video recording.

Lens Construction

MTF Curve

Product Tour

An optical glass developed by Nikon that is used with normal optical glass in telephoto lenses to obtain optimum correction of chromatic aberrations.

AS

AS stands for Aspherical lens elements. This type of lens utilizes non-spherical surfaces on either one or both sides of the glass in order to eliminate certain types of lens aberration.

A-M

A-M stands for Auto-Manual Mode. Thanks to a mechanism incorporated in the lens barrel, smooth focusing operation in Manual focus mode is realized in the same way as users have become accustomed to with conventional manual-focus lenses by adding an appropriate torque to the focus ring.

Great lens
I purchased a refurbished lens and am very well pleased with it. It appeared to be brand new when I unboxed the lens. The auto focus is so quiet I had to double check to make sure it was working! The lens is very sharp and I have not noticed any problems with the quality of the images it produces. I use it with my D7100 which was also purchased refurbished.
April 20, 2015

After 3 years, Excellent Results
Three years after I received this lens in a D3100 kit it continues to perform very well. It is a general workhorse I use for hundreds of web portraits, small product shoots, 16x20 inch wall portraits and artistic images.
May 27, 2013

Best for its price
I love this lens! It came with my D3100 Camera, and it is great for general shooting. I've heard complaints about the Macro and low-light conditions, but it isn't for those purposes first of all, but I think they are pretty stinking good for the price. It is a great lens for beginners, like me.
July 10, 2012

Extremely good lens
I have taken many pictures and know the value of the lens in picture quality. In my opinion this has provided the quality picture I'm looking for.
December 25, 2011

Great lens!!
My 18-55 came as part of my D40 kit. I must've gotten a fantastic copy of the lens b/c I've never had issued with this lens when used within its range. Of course I have trouble w/autofocus when in low light. It's not a meant for extremely low light. It IS however an amazingly fast lens that takes crisp, clear pictures. I've grabbed awesome
September 10, 2011

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This usually means that the aperture is not set on the Orange number on the aperture ring. DSLR's prefer the aperture to be controlled through the ca,era, not on the lens. Set the aperture on the orange number and go into Aperture Priority or Manual modes to control the aperture. This is why the newer AF-S lenses with the G next to the aperture no longer have an aperture ring because it's controlled through the camera.

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Whenever I take a picture the auto focus zooms in and out but the ring never goes back in all the way when I want to put the lens away so I'm not sure how to retract it properly. I don't want to damage the lens.

7 months ago

by

PurplePrincess

Penticton, BC, Canada

Location :

Penticton, BC, Canada

Age: 25-34

Favorite Subject: Family & Friends

Nikon Family: 0-1 years

Experience: Less than a month

Role: Just getting started with photography

3 Answers

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Why do you want to retract it, it is not designed to be retracted. If you really want to slide the little switch in the side to "M" and the focus ring will turn. You will then have to switch it back to "A" to autofocus.

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Not the big zoom ring with the numbers on it, the little ring that has a motor that zooms in and out on it's own when focusing. I can't manually turn it.

Dec 29, 2014 by

by

PurplePrincess

Penticton, BC, Canada

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There is a little spot on my lens, I cant get rid of it with a micro fiber cloth. Is there somthing wrong with this lens? or is it just a spot i may be able to get off? Please help!

4 years, 3 months ago by

by

Osiah

Age: 25-34

Favorite Subject: Portrait

Nikon Family: 0-1 years

Experience: 6-12 months

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

2 Answers

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The A is for Aperture Priority, this mode allows you to manually select the aperture using the command dial (Search command dial on Nikon's website for details). The shutter speed will automatically be selected for you in this mode. The M mode is Manual Mode. In this mode, you manually select both the Aperture and the Shutter speed. If your just getting started with photography, I recommend using the P for Program mode. In this mode, the aperture and shutter speed is automatically selected for you but gives you the ability to tweek exposures, metering and so forth. Start there and gain a solid understanding of how the camera selects the aperture and shutter speed. Purchase a D3100 Guide book from a local or online bookstore and learn the camera from there.

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The zoom is never locked so if your zoom capability is locked, you should send it to Nikon for inspection. The plastic tube holding the front glass element can be manually focused when you put the lens on Manual focus noted by a "M" near the switch. Once you place it on Manual, the focal ring will unlock for manual focusing.

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While using Autofocus on the AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II lens, the camera makes a scratching sound. From the description, the lens's autofocus mechanism is supposed to be ultra quiet.

3 years, 11 months ago by

by

Shrey

Ann Arbor

Location :

Ann Arbor

Age: 25-34

Favorite Subject: Landscape

Nikon Family: 0-1 years

Experience: Less than a month

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

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VR is vibration control. It stabilized an image & helps eliminate user shake which might blur the picture. If you have your lens fully extended, definitely turn the VR on. If you're getting a lot of blurred pictures at a long range, it could be from user shake which this will help eliminate.

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