A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

This specific build page is a collection of screenshots sampling some of my initial SolidWorks design and pictures showing physical construction of the initial design.
I will be creating individual build articles as I redesign, test, and implement new aspects of the printer.

I'm basically building a larger version of my crappy wanhao 3d printer.
My work was recycling some aluminium extrusion and it broke my heart to see such nice pieces of aluminium engineering being sent to a furnace. Mega 3d printer was born!

This is a simple cantilevered 3D Printer. It is designed around the OB V-Slot linear rails. I am trying to simplify this as much as possible, all rails will be 250mm long and only one will require cutting (it will be cut in half). The printer will use all OB wheels and gantry plates where applicable, all other plates can be either Laser Cut or 3D Printed (files will be provided for both). I am not set on electronic as of yet, but plan to use a single control board...no Arduino/Ramps control.

This build includes the design of a large FDM 3D printer. This machine has a 796mm by 796mm by 900mm (LxWxH) build volume. Motion is controlled by servo motors and the printer runs on python-based marlin firmware.

Ultimately - the design is based on the highly successful Ultimaker concept, for which a regular size costs in the thousands, and one of this size would be edging into the 10's of thousands. Expected Build cost - <$800
It is a X/Y Cartesian printer with Raising/Lowering Z axis (Hotbed.) - Overall size is 610mm x 610mm x 750mm - with build volume of around 450mmx450mmx450mm - and will also have the ability to change work tools - such as for CNC Routing, Lazer etching, 3d Scanning, etc.

This is a modification I made to my Voxel Ox 3D Printer Z axis, which synchronizes the Z leadscrews via a shaft and helical gear transmission. It prevents the two Z leadscrew from getting out of adjustment relative to each other, and uses a single Z motor instead of two.
This build is just documenting the specific changes I have made to the Z-axis, since the frame and other axes are still from the original Voxel Ox design.

A lightweight, portable, accurate 3D Printer that has a good sized print area and small overall footprint that is easy to build, with easy to source components.
The design is OpenSource allowing those with the capability to make their own parts get up and running.

This is a remix of Marshal Peck's Voxel OX, with some design tweaks inspired by Makerparts and jjcolletta. It has a build area of 300mm X 300mm X 480mm, but is easily configured for just about any build area up to 500mm X 500mm X 750mm. I have used some laser cut acrylic plates and a couple of 3D printed parts in its construction, however it can be assembled using nothing but OpenBuilds parts with the exception of the heated bed and the Y axis carrier for the heated bed.

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

A Cartesian printer using bushings for the Z axis instead of wheels or linear bearings. The design also synchronizes two Z axis screws with a timing belt for a level lift. The ratio of the drive pulley and Z axis pulleys produce .005 lift per full step on a 200 step motor, eliminating layer resolution "drift" caused by microstepping.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry.
I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

A quiet, 8inx8in build area, Cartesian printer with permanently level bed. This is a compact, solid, inexpensive printer that will reliably print any type filament for thousands of hours while you sleep, fish, or play ball in the park.

This is an all metal build using OpenBuilds V-Slot linear rails to produce a high quality and cost effective 3D printer.
The printer is designed to be scalable for your desired build area and can utilize high quality hotends with 16mm groove mounts such as E3D.

This 3D printer is an implementation of the Ultimaker 3D printer
Using the Modular approach, many of the parts from the CubeSpawn 3 axis mill translate straight across into this design, so adding new concepts should go quicker

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

I recently completed my C-Beam Plate Maker build ( http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/rsws-c-beam-build.4286/ ) and quickly got the build bug. I was looking for something to make with the new C-Beam and decided its time to venture into the 3D printer world. I can honestly say I have never been in the same room with a 3D printer, so this is going to be a learning experience. I spent some time browsing the 3D printer builds and finally decided to copy the Talos3D by AlexLee.

The 3D printer will be able to print 2x2x2m components and not just in PLA or ABS. It's not just a DIY printer but I'm trying to apply engineering formulas to make it. I'm going to apply the state of art for 3D printing and scannering existing.

I am building a simple home brewed printer. I have a background in industrial automation so I figured how hard could this be. The mechanical build was pretty smooth as was the electrical side. Now just getting plastic out the hotend is my stopping point.

As a tinkerer and hobbyist I need a reliable quality printer on a budget... Meaning I'm not looking to buy a: Prusa, Zortrax or LulzBot because of the added cost their marketing adds.
I can definitely build a machine of hopefully equal quality at a lower cost that is not impacted by the marked-up priced from a large reputable manufacturer.
I will need to dedicate time and more time for design shakedowns to ensure I produce a quality machine.
Bare with me on this build... Thanks!

I have re-purposed many of the parts from my Linear OX build.
I'm using MGN 12 linear rails on all three axis, 5 start lead screws on the Z axis and I'm going to experiment with 5 start lead screw on the X axis.
The frame plates are made from 1/8" laser cut mild steel, & open builds extrusion.

The original plan was to build a 3d printer with a 1200x1200 build platform with a 600mm build height. I was having issues getting ahold of a large enough borosilicate glass plate for the build so I decided to go for build height. I plan on using a smoothieboard for the controller. The build has currently slowed down. I was removing a broken drillbit from the linear rail mount, and it shattered and took out my eye. I am doing what I can when I can focus my eyes long enough for the build.

In Greek mythology, Talos (/ˈteɪlɒs/;[1] Greek: Τάλως, Talōs) was a giant man of bronze made by Hephaestus (the Greek god of fire, metalworking, craftsmen and blacksmiths) who protected Europa in Crete from pirates and invaders. He circled the island's shores three times daily.

I've owned some pretty unreliable printers, and I'll leave it at that...
This design comes from the need to have a 3D printer that is reliable, period. I didn't have the money for a several thousand dollar 3d printer with an equivalent build area so that was out of the question. Plus as a fledgling Engineer, I really wanted to blood myself on a project. And that's how Old Faithful came to be. A simple, reliable, rigid, durable machine. Made by me :) Also, it'll be tough enough for light CNC.

The Roberta Clementine a proof of concept and progenitor to the series of printers I will be calling the Clementine Sisters. The printer is named after Pittsburgh Pirates baseball player Roberto Clemente. Although it is more accurate to say the printer is named after the school I work for which is named after Clemente the Roberto Clemente Charter School. http://www.myrccs.com Roberta is the first and not really built to last but instead built to test ideas and to produce the parts for successors

This project shows how to use Openbuilds Vv slot extrusions and wheels to retrofit a Lulzbot Taz 4 or 5 printer. These modifications improve layer consistency, eliminate nozzle and bed sag, and allow for larger toolhead mounting. Project updates and newer accessory files may be located at http://www.thingiverse.com/piercet/designs

Hi! This build is, or at least should be, a multipurpose box (mBOX). Due to limited space I want to build something that can serve multiple purposes such as 3d printing, 3d scan, plexiglass cutting and hopefully some milling too (both wood and metal). Switching between modes should involve switching heads and worksurface (change heatbed with a wood platform and viceversa).
(for the scan part I'm thinking of integrating this opensource project into the frame: http://www.freelss.org/ )

This is a simple, yet rugged design, weighing only 6 lbs and with 13x13x14" volume with a 8x8x6" build area. While assembly is pretty simple, the small size and rigidity of the design make shipping assembled printers attractive.

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

Over 840 parts. Of whom around 450 are screws and nuts, more than 100 parts are printed on a 3D printer, the frame consists of about 60 components. There is nearly 40 electrical components connected with tens of meters of wires, most of them sleeved.

An all metal construction cartesian style 3D printer with a very rigid frame that has the flexibility to function as a desktop milling station or laser cutter with appropriate user designed attachments.
Design is scaleable to suit any size requirement. All axis are leadscrew driven.
V-Slot and Mini V-wheels have been utilised for the linear rails.

OneZ gets it's name from it's most unique feature - only motor for the Z axis while maintaining the stability of two bearing guides for the Z axis. Reduction to one Z motor eliminates need for auto bed leveling.

The STEAM Crane 3d printer uses the new C-Beam linear rail. It is being developed for an after school / summer camp program for kids.
All of the electronics are housed in the base and the wiring is routed down the channels of the c-beam. This is done to contain as much of the loose wiring as possible, hopefully keeping it safer for kids.