What’s interesting is that the new DCS570 is also a right-facing circular saw – like the FlexVolt model. The DCS391 and DCS393 circular saws, premium and combo kit versions of the 20V Max brushed motor saw, are both left-facing saws. This seems to be the industry trend, for 6-1/2″ saws to be left-facing and 7-1/4″ saws to be right-facing as most corded sidewinder-style saws are.

This is something that readers have been after for a long time, myself as well. We’ve all been asking Dewalt to come out with a brushless circular saw.

But now that it’s here, I’m a little underwhelmed. Maybe that’s because the FlexVolt version checked all the boxes and is fantastic in all regards. Well, I suppose most regards. It’s good for there to be a 20V Max version for users who don’t want to spend the premium for a FlexVolt battery pack – which can be charged in any standard Dewalt 20V Max charger.

I guess I was more hoping that Dewalt’s next brushless saw would have been a 20V Max 6-1/2″ saw. I love everything about their brushed motor version, and so I was hoping for something similar with an upgraded brushless motor.

If the new 20V Max saw performs as good as their FlexVolt model, or even nearly as good, it’s sure to become popular and fast.

I wonder why Dewalt stuck with the flat-style aluminum shoe, rather than the three-dimensional design their premium brushed model sports. I always saw the belt shoe of their combo kit saw as a cost-cutting measure, but the plate on the FlexVolt model doesn’t have any flaws or faults that I can see. So I guess it’s nothing to be concerned about.

Kit pricing isn’t available yet, but $159 for the bare tool is $20 cheaper than for the bare tool FlexVolt saw.

55 Comments

now if I just had a quality solidly attaching, straight edge to use as a guide . . . . .

I was just about to buy than nifty flexvolt combo setup the other day with the one battery, the one bay flex charger, and the circ saw. Needless to say I’m in the market for a circ saw – giving serious thought to a corded one – but just as serious thought to a cordless one.

You can’t be serious. Meanwhile people frame houses everyday with the Fuel 2731, and it has a rafter hook, yet the DCS575 doesn’t. Give me a break, it’s a cheap addition. Add $5 to the price, guys would pay it.

Actually the aluminum base is more durable then the magnesium, you drop the magnesium saw from 3ft or more and it’s braking the aluminum will just bend and you can bang that back but that said I like the looks of the magnesium base better, they should offer both and right and left blade placement

A little late to the fight. I’ve got a lot of DeWalt goodness, but the free Fuel circular saw that Milwaukee is bundling with their 9.0 Ah starter kit was too much to pass up. Strongly considering another starter kit with free Sawzall. I’ll stick with DeWalt for just about everything else…

Seems clear that the reason this is blade right is it’s basically a weaker FlexVolt DCS575. Wouldn’t surprise me to see a blade left brushless model down the road. I expect this to be a strong performer with the new XR 6.0 20700 batteries but the FlexVolt with the 3.0/9.0 20700 pack will easily outdo it. The new rear handle Makita should outdo that even. The power tool arms race is real!

Yeah, that’s true. Focus groups are never wrong. Might as well never make a left blade saw again.

It’s also a regional preference. Fair to assume guys who use worm drives are are going to buy the Makita rear-handle are used to blade left, as are the majority of people who’ve used a cordless sidewinder in the past ten years.

My saws are blade right, but let’s not let companies off the hook and leave guys out in the cold just because what we like is already being made…

For that matter, there’s no rafter hook on the 60v circ saw or the recip. Who cares right? I mean, it’s only ungodly expensive, why would you want something that’s on the competitors saws? We’ll wait 6 more years for those. Thanks dewalt. Yawn.

You just developed a new product, you could manufacture it one of two ways. You do research and the vast majority prefer style 1 over style 2. Are you going to manufacture style 1 or style 2??

No one said DeWalt will never make a blade left saw again, but people want a blade right, so that’s what was released first. I have been using blade left saws for many years, but I have no problem picking up this cordless saw and using it just the same.

Unless people have an option of blade left, right, top and bottom they will complain. . . . . .

This is a great saw. I am fairly surprised at the amount of power it puts out, I’ve only stalled it out once doing some aggressive ripping in some 2X lumber.

The LED light is wonderful, even though it doesn’t quite light up the front of the shoe. One HUGE advantage to me is how much narrower the saw is compared to the DCS391 due to the brushless motor. I have been able to get it into spots that the 391 just simply wouldn’t fit. The shoe isn’t bad and the stamped markings in it are great for quick non critical cuts.

One important note, this saw has a greater depth capacity when cutting a bevel than many corded saws.

No it’s not, drop both saws one with a magnesium base the other with aluminum base from 3ft up the magnesium will brake the aluminum won’t even bend from that height , the aluminum is way more durable, magnesium is lighter the only benefit

the OMG weight discussion. I mean everything’s about weight – hence the mag shoe – it was initially thought of because of weight. So doing it correctly would be to go as in as you can with material design.

Glass reinforced plastics are used in quite a bit of the body parts now. use some S glass in a Delrin or other high density plastic base – it’s not smoother running, just as strong against cracking depending on thickness etc. You have to have the ultimate right?

This is mostly meant as a joke to the why MAG or AL is better – to be completely fair to the stamped steel if it was as thick as most of the AL plates, for strength and wear that would be ideal especially if it was a flavor of SS so as not to rust. Cost no object there are lots of things that would be different about any brands circ saw – or any other tool for that matter.

It’s a circular saw, people. Your hands go on the trigger and that saddle grip. Right or left, it forces you to look over the top of the saw to guide it. Plus you still have to contact DeWALT over their Bent Piece of Metal straight-edge guide.

I would imagine, if we measured torque on these saws, the 575 would kick this 20 Volt’s ass. And, yes, they appear to have the same design. Of course, no one makes that complaint about Vice Grips, or Reciprocating Saws, or any of the other dozens of tools that come in multiple sizes. If it works at 60 Volts, then putting the 20 Volt Motor on the same saw should work the same, but be compatible with more batteries. Or, y’know… the FlexVolt battery…

And… seriously? You’re bitching over a “Rafter Hook” of all things? Something you can make out of a wire coat hangar and some Velcro, and stick in your back pocket until you need it, kind of thing? You’re Tool Users! MAKE IT YOURSELF!

I layout all the cuts I possibly can based on the saw I’m used to (left) and because that’s how I can get the most visibility and therefore accuracy. I can get by with a blade right but it messes up my workflow (efficiency).
The hook could be viewed as trivial, but a big draw for a cordless saw is to be used in the rafters/on the roof. That’s when I really love the beefy hook on my Milwaukee- it’s just piece of mind. No offense but I don’t want to hang my expensive saw on Velcro and coat hangers 25 ft in the air. Even if cutting on the ground a hook helps keep it out of the mud/dust/dirt/whatever

I’m with you on this… No, it has nothing to do with the shared name… It’s a power tool… Right or Left… Learn to use it properly, and safely. Having a hook attach to it can be done a hundred different ways. Learn a skill that will let you make yourself a belt clip, or a bungee hangar… But seriously… Because some cheap-ass brand throws in a minor convenience, suddenly everyone is bitching that it isn’t included on a brand of saw that actually believes its users can do work with their tools?

Seriously… We’re all here at ToolGuyd for a reason… We’re Tool Users… We make stuff, either professionally or as a hobby. Considering the price of keeping and maintaining DeWALT tools… Just make these stupid convenience items yourself… and learn to use the saw that does the job. The job is what counts, not your preferences. There’s a trigger handle, and a saddle grip handle. Nothing in that is in favour of Right or Left. Just line the blade up with the line you’re cutting and pull the trigger. It’s not rocket science, it’s a Saw. In fact, the same saw will work the same way whether you’re using your Right hand on the trigger, OR you’re flipped the other way, forced to cut Left-Handed… it still goes in the straight line you put it on.

Seriously… it’s like old women arguing over what Yarn to knit with, and getting angry because one of them prefers Alpaca Wool to Sheep’s Wool. They’re Knitting. We’re using a Saw. Learn how to use the right tools for the right job, in the right way.

Actually I sound remarkably like someone who is astonished that one of the earlier comments on this page started an actual argument over how disappointing it was NOT to have a rafter hook on the saw.

On ToolGuyd. Seriously. There was an argument over whether or not it included a Rafter Hook, and it lasted more than just one response. I find that repulsive and insulting to all tool users, MALE AND FEMALE. If a TV doesn’t include a Remote, usually the Cable provider does. So, no big deal. But an argument over a bent piece of metal that it is physically possible to improvise with little to no effort? Does that make any sense to anyone at all, that this of all things caused an argument here?

Listen… The whole Aluminum versus Magnesium shoe thing… Totally understand that. I have the DCS391 with the Magnesium Shoe. That Magnesium Shoe is what sold me over the DCS393 with the flat Aluminum Shoe. Some things are totally structural, and people’s preferences are totally valid on those things. They truly matter. You use a Rafter Hook all the time? Great, that’s what it’s for, right? But… If it’s not on a saw, and it’s just a bent piece of metal… Why is it worth arguing over? Make one. You’d need an entire Magnesium Molding system to make yourself a Magnesium Shoe for one of these saws, it’s not a trivial thing to make. But a hook? Seriously? Why is anyone arguing over this being some sort of tragedy that it’s not included? One brand over another? Simple convenience? Why is it worthy of a debate of any sort, when you can make it easier than you can argue it?

Left versus Right… Honestly? Two handles… You look OVER the saw anyways… Line the blade up… Go to town with the saw… Pretty insignificant… I can even use my 391 flip-handed without a difference… Usually pulling the trigger with my right hand, but the saw works exactly the same, and feels the same using my Left. I get preferences here, but… it WILL behave the same either way.

I will concede that I would LOVE to be able to reconfigure Circular Saws for Right or Left. Then we’d all win, no matter what. When you buy it in the box, it comes as a Motor, Handle/Saddle Grip, Shoe, Blade Casing (Reversible), and Safety Slide that you clip into the blade casing at the end of putting it together so it works the way you’ve configured it. Then you just lock the handle/saddle grip, and blade casing on the side of the Motor you need to use it on, then screw everything in place, and snap on a plastic cover that stops the unused side from causing sparks or being a hazard to the user. Voila. Left-Right Saw issue solved forever. The saw will STILL work the same either way… Line up the blade with the cut, pull the trigger and go… but being able to reverse it would certainly open up a lot of selling options.

A HOOK? This is not worth debating for any reason. Need it, but don’t have it? Make it. Have it, but don’t need it? Don’t use it. Brand X has them, but this one released by Brand Y doesn’t come with one? I refer you to the Need It/Make It solution to the problem. It’s not worth a debate of any length. I know 5-year-olds that know how to bend a coat hangar into shapes they need for things… We’re all tool users here… We can do better than a 5 year old, can’t we?

When you earn a living with your tools,fencing/hand rails for me…..Little details make the difference.
Would prefer DeWalt jig saw, recip saw, vacuum,drill,grinder,but full size saw will win out for me.

Btw I use the rafter hook to hang it up/carry with other tools…Everyday….Blade left/right doesn’t bother me.

I like the idea of a 6-1/2″ saw but I think it would be great if they could design it to cut as deep as a 7-1/4″ saw. There is a lot of blade between the shoe and the nut. Now that would be great. Sure we all have 7-1/4″ blades for our electric models but I would be willing to buy a few 6-1/2″ blades if I could get a smaller/lighter saw that will do the same as a 7-1/4″ as far as depth of cut at 90 and 45..

Kind of pointless. If im going to spend the money id rather spend a little more and get the flexvolt which can run off 20v or 60v. I was really hoping to see a reciprocating saw like the 20v but brushless not the compact version. The flexvolt recip saw is way too heavy.

after picking up a Flexvolt, I’d rather not again. especially for any extended period of time. I’m sure there are plenty that could use the extra power, but heck the 12v Fuel cuts 2x just fine. I do prefer 7-1/4″, with the widest & most reasonable priced blade selection.

I’m a little late to this discussion, but I was prompted back to it because of my trip last week a few states away when I needed my 6.5″ Dewalt DCS391 from home. Having other 20v max tools and batteries with me I went to Lowes and picked up a new DCS391 and found it to be a much better performing tool than my older unit at home. It wasn’t until I returned home and compared both tools did I discover that my older unit has a Type-1, 3700/min printed on the Iabel and the new one has Type-3, 5150/min. Both tools are otherwise very close in outward appearance and features, including the 3D magnesium base. Does Dewalt do this with other tools? I can’t find mention of the difference between the two on Dewalt’s website. Was there ever a Type-2?

Stuart –
I was originally a little puzzled by your pick of the DCS391 as your personal favorite in this class of cordless circular saw, but my opinion was based my rather anemic Type-1 version. Now that I’ve worked with the newer and much higher rpm Type-3, I find that I really like the saw as well. Even when I cut a number of wet PT 2x boards I was pleased with the performance, considering the saws size and intended use.

From what I’ve read, the guarding is not designed for the same level of protection, nor are the internal components adequately protected against metal chips that can make their way inside.

What I do know for sure is that the speeds aren’t appropriate. Wood-cutting circular saws spin faster. Metal-cutting saws often have lower RPMs and smaller blades, resulting in significantly lower cutting speeds.

I would buy the dcs575 60v. I love mine it performs great. I would definitely buy the new dcb609 batteries also. The battery that comes with the saw is a 6A/h battery and does not last long. I recently got the two pack of the 9 A/h batteries. And they last much longer.