Bulungula

Getting to Bulungula, a Fair Trade, eco-friendly backpackers off the Eastern Cape’s Wild Coast, is a challenge - but so, so worth it.

A 30 kilometre badly-rutted gravel road takes you just south of Coffee Bay to the backpackers lodge, a collection of traditional huts located in Nqileni, one of the poorest, most remote villages in South Africa.

The lodge is testament to the fact that ecotourism can be an effective poverty-fighting tool. Owning 40% of the lodge and its profits, the local Xhosa community is very much a part of Bulungula, which overflows with guests, guides and village kids.

In fact, unlike most ‘ecotourism’ establishments, the community is actively involved in running the lodge.

Offering simple, rustic and unfussy accommodation, Bulungula offers dorm rooms in traditional round Xhosa huts with four to six beds in each.

There's also the choice of private rooms with double or twin beds, 2-sleeper safari tents under the milkwoods and camping grounds to pitch a tent.

There’s a communal lounge and kitchen, offering self-catering options or serving pre-booked meals (veg options available) and an outdoor area which overlooks the river mouth.

Completely off-the-grid, Bulungula uses solar and wind power, rocket showers (a chimney-like system that heats water by drawing hot air upwards using just a tiny amount of paraffin) and natural building materials.

They’ve even obtained carbon-neutral status by offsetting any emissions by planting (and fencing off) slow-growing indigenous trees to rehabilitate the coastal forest. Founder Dave Martin claims the lodge uses the same amount of power in 24 hours as it takes to boil a kettle!

But best of all is the lodge’s setting on the edge of the Bulungula river where it meets the Indian Ocean and there’s nothing but coastal forest, rolling green hills and glittering ocean as far as the eye can see.

There’s no city lights or noise either (the nearest town is 5 hours away) so if you don’t see a shooting star at night you get a night’s stay free!

Bulungula is also very much a part of rural village life and it’s interesting to see its impact on community development.

Tours are run by locals themselves, who often invite you into their huts for a chat. Don’t miss the women power or village tour or the chance to canoe down the river!

What makes it eco?

Fair Trade, Carbon-neutral and off-the-grid, Bulungula has won many awards for its eco initiatives. Powered by solar and wind, the lodge captures rainwater and reuses kitchen and shower water (filtered through three ponds and a banana circle) for the garden.

There’s waterless compost toilets, rocket showers (a chimney-like system that heats water by drawing hot air upwards using just a tiny amount of paraffin). Even the bread is baked in a solar oven and smoothies are made with a bicycle-powered blender.

Co-owners and founders, Dave Martin and Rejane Woodroffe are doing incredible community development work through the non-profit organisation, the Bulungula Incubator.

They are involved with education (mostly early childhood development) and have established a preschool of excellence, library, rural school development programme and more, as well planting permaculture gardens in schools, offering deworming for kids and teachers and training in health and nutrition.

Then there’s microenterprise development (encouraging locals to start up their own small businesses such as sewing, cleaning, homestays, tours etc) and helping provide basic services (particularly looking at water needs).

So if you want to stay somewhere that really does make a difference, Bulungula is the place for you.

Bulungula Quick Facts

Accommodation type:

Backpackers lodge (private huts, dorms, camping)

Where

Near Nkanya, a remote village in the Wild Coast (Eastern Cape, South Africa). There’s 30 kilometres of bumpy gravel road that takes you to the lodge (2-wheel drives can make it, but it is a challenge). Altenatively, take one of the four-weekly shuttles from Mtatha.

New! Comments

Have your say about what you just read! Leave me a comment in the box below.

Search Us

Eco-travel & Lifestyles

Hi, my name is Melissa and I created this site together with photographer Christopher List to help spread awareness about green lifestyles and travel, so everyone can learn how easy it is to live in a sustainable way. Enjoy!

Testimonials

I wasn't sure what a permaculture design course was about, until I read through Melissa's fantastic blog! I've signed up and soon I'll be a PDC graduate too.

Kelly Richardson - Arizona

The link between personal responsibility and preserving our environment is becoming increasingly clear to me. Reading up on simple ways to be more eco-friendly in my life and travels has really helped me practice what I preach.

Dennis Howley - Namibia

I can't wait to follow Melissa and Chris' adventures in the Middle East and Africa. You guys inspire me!