Just wondering what you think is the greatest mountaineering feat by an American?

My first choice to get the ball rolling is the traverse of Everest by my dad's old climbing partner Willi Unsoeld and Dr. Thomas Hornbein in 1963. The second choice would be the ascent of the Kangshung face of Everest by Ed Webster and others in 1988.

There are others but these were the first two that popped into my mind.

Kennedy and George Lowe's Infinite Spur on Foraker, right after they completed the Kennedy-Lowe Route on Hunter, in which Jeff broke his ankle and they rescued him and reclimbed the route. What a month of climbing!!!

I don't know how many people have heard of John Mallon Waterman, but his first ascent of the SOUTHEAST SPUR of MOUNT HUNTER in July of 1978 must rank as one of the all-time greatest efforts in mountaineering history. Read about his ascent in HIGH ALASKA by Jonathan Waterman (no relation). To summarize his ascent, he made the first solo of Mount Hunter, by a new route (rated ALASKA GRADE 6), and also completed the first traverse of the mountain. It took him 145 DAYS!!! He carried about 1,000 pounds of equipment and ferried his own loads on the mountain, so he climbed it dozens of times. In 1977, several of the best climbers of the day could not pass a 350 foot overhanging section, in 1978, he cracked it solo in three days. He was considered eccentric, but this feat must rank up there with the greatest of all time, not just by an AMERICAN!!!

I neglected to mention that fact, yes he was the son of GUY and LAURA. He apparently died in 1981, when he decided to solo a new route on DENALI. He was last seen hiking up the NORTHWEST FORK of the RUTH GLACIER, with only a day pack. Despite extensive searches, his body was never recovered.

John waterman was crazy, & Tough were those Lowes, And Ed Webster lost just a few of his toes. Though Willi And Hornbein climbed hard for their day; the sherpas still make their climb look like kid's play. Johnny Muir climbed in hobnails and slept in a coat, a hundred years sooner, he climbed like a goat.

I don't remember the three climbers names, I'm sure someone else will. I read a sort of essay / trip report a while back, about a certain speed ascent of the Czec Direct route on Denali. After looking at the route, the speed, and manner in which they climbed, I would say that it is a competitor in this little contest. Also, coincidentally, the essay was mainly based on the thesis of (and I paraphrase) 'American climbers are lazy and scared so they don't push the limits like their European counterparts' Don't know if I agree completely given Ed Viesters Exploits etc. but I felt it had some merit, especially coming from an American climber.

Just to throw one more out there. . . The previously mentioned Ed Viesters is slowly ticking off all the 8,000 M's with no Oxygen. What is it now, one left? (Again I am bad with the details.) But that's a pretty big feat!

In re: John Waterman, Laura and Guy's son; I am finishing Jonathon Waterman's book In the Shadow of Denali, and he gives a very good insight into the character and personality of Johnny Waterman. I think most people don't know about him, and his personal torments kept him from much, but I agree his ascent of Hunter is absolutely astounding. Many younger (<35) may not even recognize his name, but check out the info from sources of the time period, and few will argue that his ascent is incredible!!!

Elvislegs...all Viesturs has left is Annapurna and Nanga Parbat. Since he is very cautious and doesn't take unnecessary chances, he might not ever do Annapurna. That mountain requires excessive risk taking just because of the avalanche danger. I also have to give a vote to Lowe and Kennedy on the Infinite Spur.