Jeff I will run the new body. It is ugly but like you said if it is fast then I will just put up with it and run it. The more I look at it painted the better is growing on me.

John I won 2 national titles on dirt oval and I never needed to spray my bearings to be fast. Factory bearings are greased for a reason. Just because something spins a long time don't mean it is faster. I agree that I rather have smooth then have free with grit.

With no reply to my last post yet, I'm going to jump on the "Factory Sealed & Greased" bandwagon. I actually attempted running my old Pro 2 without sheilds a couple of years ago in the stock class and the only difference I noticed happened to be the amount of extra cleaning time it took to get the carpet fuzz out of them.

Most people think because something spins longer that it is actually freer. Yes it spins more but you will have more friction once the bearing gets rolling and heated up. Why do all bearing companies use the grease of some type? Normally for longevity and less friction.

When I ran dirt oval and won my 2 national titles I would work on my transmissions for hours. I had trannys that would sping free for over a minute and ones that were smooth but would only spin for 20 seconds. After all the years of doing that I found that as long as the tranny was smooth with no binding my laptimes were the same no matter which one I would run. The results were the same but the main differance was the one with the factory grease never had grit in the bearings and they never went bad.

As far as friction if you were going to notice it, it would be in stock not mod. With all the never low wind motors and killer batteries you can have shafts, 1 belt, 2 belts and even 3 belt cars running fast and not dump. In stock when races are won and lost by tenths of seconds and you have alot more stock racers in general at most tracks is were you might see a differance if you could.

Most people think because something spins longer that it is actually freer. Yes it spins more but you will have more friction once the bearing gets rolling and heated up.

The bearing should never get heated up if oiled right. The problem comes from people not oiling them often enough. If your not one for cleaning often, by all means keep the stock grease in your bearings.

Quote:

Why do all bearing companies use the grease of some type? Normally for longevity and less friction.

Yes they will last longer with factory grease in them, but I don't agree with the less friction. If a bearing spins for 2 seconds with stock grease, and 5 seconds with light bearing oil, I would say the bearing with the light oil has the less friction. now multiply that by 22 bearings in the car....
With racing stock, you need every ounce of extra speed you can get out of your car. A drivetrain with less rolling resistance means faster acceleration, more top speed, cooler running motors and batteries, and longer run times (Not really a big deal with stock, as with anything 2400 on up you should never dump).

I am not trying to start a war over what way is better, that depends on you, but just trying to put my .02 cents in.

Well for those who clean their bearings to make them freer I have found that lighter fluid worked great to make the bearings spin longer than anything else I have found. If you choose this method with the lighter fluid you will have to clean the bearins often as the lighter fluid don't provide much protection at all the bearing but it pretty friction free.

Ok guys, well I finally picked up a one way for my xxxs. I have never used one before and only a couple of people with tc3's at my local track have tried them breifly and say they hate them. I will be using it this Sunday for the first time and have some questions that I hope you can help with. I run on an unprepped fairly smooth assphalt surface that I have always had good traction on, never been loose. I plan on starting with the car setup stock but with 50 weight oil. I am assuming that the car is going to have a massive amount of overstear and was wondering if it does, what should I do to correct it first? Stiffer springs and a sway bar up front or more tow in the rear? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Blake.

Okay, after studying all the setups available it looks like the standard setup is plaid fronts and purple rears. There seems to be a new combo out recently that is cyan front and magenta rears. What would be the first suggestion for tracks that are not raced at heavily? Having not ran foams before, what is the chance of tearing up a tire? I would assume the fronts would be more suseptable to chunking. Would a spare set of fronts only be advisable if you were on a budget?

The first thing i would do if i were new to foams is get some practice. I alway run either plaid or double purple in front and always purple in rear. Compared to rubber tires foams require more finess and it really pays to be smooth, thus practice. And if you chunk a tire don't worry about it. If your competing for the national champs you would put new ones on. But the amount of differece it makes is little. Depending on your track, one side of the car might wear more than the other so check them with a caliper and rotate them. The bottom line is smooth is the way to go due to the increased traction and once you get smooth dial the rest of the car in to get corner speed!

Believe it or not Doug, I think that you are more likely to chunk rear tires than you are front. It's hard to explain but I've definitely had more rear chunks than front chunks. I think this has to do with rear toe in for one. The back of the wheel sticks out further and is at a perfect angle to be torn off the edge of the rim upon having a "board meeting".

What seems to happen more up front is small cuts and little chunks right in the center of the tires from the body wheel well compressing upon impact. But its pretty tough to predict.

The Cyan/Magenta tire combo is a bit softer than the Purple/Plaid combo. Good luck finding them.

i find that (especially when on carpet) truing them down a bit to start with will reduce the chances of them chunking. but dont go overboard and take them right down.

make sure that after they've been trued, that the edges get rounded, square edges aren't a good thing.

another thing is to make sure that when your body is pushed in, the wheel arches clear the tyres. as that can also contribute to them chunking.

some people have a spair set of tyres they cut chunks out of to patch up the set they use, but personally i'll glue what i can back together or just round the edge off the tear and keep running on them for club racing.

also remember to adjust you cars camber so the tyres dont cone (when the tyres wear so that the inner edge's diam. isnt the same as the outter edge's diam.).

Originally posted by Cain I have Team PRP shock towers on the way for my XXX-S. What will the different shock and turnbuckle locations do for me? (ie- using the top row of holes for the shocks will give better "blah", further out, does blah).

I am also picked up a hold down / heat sink, looks pretty cool in the blue and won't block the motor holes.

Finally, changed my current oil settings, still running alittle soft in the rear compared to normal but I think that may be the hot ticket on our track.

From which company did you buy the blue heatsink??? and if they have a web site...