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Friday, May 1, 2009

Distant cousins: Lily of the Valley & Lily~part 1: Lily of the Valley

Although in nomenclature lily of the valley is easily confused with lily and its own varietal richness, the two are completely different flowers and in this scent guide I will try to analyse their olfactory differences, their participation in the bouquet of classic and modern fragrances, the materials used to render them in perfumery as well as a list of perfumes that highlight their graceful beauty. The first part deals with Lily of the Valley or Muguet, while the second part will deal with Lily.

The raindrenched earth after spring showers and the wet foliage remind me of the lyrics by songwriter George Brassens:

May 1st has been inexctricably tied to Francophiles’ minds with one of the loveliest spring blossoms and its neo-Victorian image: lily of the valley (Lys des vallées) or, as the French commonly call it, muguet (pronounced mygɛ). And it’s for a reason: it’s the traditional flower offered on this day and one can routinely see street vendors selling nosegays on the French streets. The tradition goes back to Charles IX who on May 1st 1561 inaugurated the custom.It is also a symbolic gift for 13 years of marriage and is traditionally used in bridal bouquets thanks to its enticing scent.

Etymology and symbolism

The etymology of muguet is said to derive from muscade (nutmeg), since the smell of the flower has an indefinite nuance reminiscent to it, which became mugade, and finally muguet. A lucky symbol ~it means “return of happiness” in the language of flowers~ the delicate beauty of lily of the valley is however poisonous (especially its reddish fruit) due to convallatoxine, convallamarine, and convallarine; a brave irony on the part of Creation!Lily of the valley/muguet (Convallaria majalis) is a herbaceous perennial plant prevalent in Asia, Europe and the Eastern USA, with characteristic bell-shaped little flowers, hence its other name May Bells. But its alternative names "Our Lady's tears" and "Male Lily" are more poetically evoctive: Legend wants Eve to have shed bitter tears after the Lapse from the Garden of Eden which falling onto the ground transformed into the white little blossoms. Another medieval legend wants Saint Leondard de Noblac, a knight in the court of Clovis I (of the Limousin region of France) and patron saint to prisoners of all kinds, to have battled with a dragon (a common medieval theme) in which his shed blood trasformed into lilies of the valley. But although one usually associates the delicate green floralncy of its aroma with females now, the term "Male Lily" has another explanation: It has been a favourite perfume for men ever since the 16th century, to the point that up till the 19th century the term muguet was linguistically used to denote an elegant young gentleman!Another legend wants the Greek God Apollon to have tapestried the mount Parnassus with lilies of the valley so that the Muses wouldn’t hurt themselves if they fell...Classical antiquity paid great attention to the seasonal celebrations of nature and the zenith of the Roman celebrations of Flora, goddess of flowers, culminated on May 1st.

The role of lily of the valley in perfumery and construction of the accord

Lily of the valley is technically a green floral with rosy-lemony nuance*, whereas lily is a white, spicy floral. The former has known a profound and extensive use in perfumery, despite its resistance to natural extraction methods which yield a very miniscule amount of no great significance. Apart from soliflores (fragrances focusing on highlighting the beauty of one kind of flower), the lily of the valley accord has been adequately used in classical fragrances as a catalyst to “open up” and freshen the bouquet of the other floral essences in the heart, much like we allow fresh air to come in contact with an uncorked red wine to let it “breathe” and bring out its best. The effect is wonderfully put to use in Chanel No.19, Guerlain’s Chamade and Jean Patou’s L’Heure Attendue. Its lack of sweetness is also an important aspect in the creation of masculine fragrances: witness Chavelier d’Orsay, Équipage by Hermès, Insensé by Givenchy and Riverside Drive by Bond no.9 to name but a few.

The reconstitutions of lily of the valley note are based on either combinations of natural essences (usually citrus with jasmine, orange blossom or rose and green notes such as vetiver) or more commonly on synthetics. The classical ingredient is hydroxycitronellal, as well as the patended Lyral and Lilial, all coming under the spotlight of the latest restrictions on perfumery materials {you can read all about them here}. Lilial has a cyclamen facet to it, used in good effect in Paco Rabanne pour Homme. Super Muguet is another lily of the valley synthetic which surfaces in Marc Jacobs for men, as a clean facet under the figs. Kovanol is very close to hydroxicitronellal, which is interesting to note. Restricted by IFRA is also the newest Majantol {2,2-Dimethyl-3-(3-methylphenyl)-propanol}, while Muguesia or Mayol are also used to give this green floral smell of muguet. The name Mayol has an interesting background: it’s a nod to comedy singer Félix Mayol who put a boutonnière of the muguets he had been offered by his girlfriend Jenny Crook instead of his usual camelia on the 1st of May of 1895 before going out to sing!Phenylethyl alcohol and benzyl acetate (the former rosier, the latter jasminer) as well as dimethylbenzenepropanol also contribute in the creation of bases which are used to render lily of the valley notes. It all depends on which impression the perfumer wishes to convey!The clean, almost soapy nuances of lily of the valley has been traditionally exploited in soaps, which is why all too often lily of the valley as a fragrance note reads as “soapy” in your perfume. It’s also why it’s terribly difficult to render a convincing lily of the valley fine fragrance that does not evoke functional cleaning products, due to the exagerrated use they make of this aroma in that sector of the industry.

Iconic Lily of the Valley fragrances

The definitive lily of the valley fragrance used to be the masterful Diorissimo (1955) by trismegistus Edmond Roudnitska who is said to have planted a bed of them in his garden, so as to study the smell attentively and to evoke the indefinable atmosphere of spring. Lily of the valley used to be the lucky charm of Christian Dior himself, who always sew a twig into the hem of his creations to bring them luck. The juxtaposition of virginal, celestial greenness in the lily-of-the-valley crystal tones of Diorissimo with only a hint at improper smells through the deep, warmly powdery aspect of civet and indolic jasmine in the dry-down is nothing short of magical. Alas, the latest formulation of Diorissimo has taken away that animalic warmth, leaving it with only the clean facet.Roudnitska himself however had been quite appreciative of the pure and delicate innocence of Muguet des Bois (Muguets of the Woods) by Coty (1942). Guerlain’s seasonal limited edition of Muguet is a rich, sweeter rendition that is partly inspired by the original Muguet of 1906, while Le Muguet by Annick Goutal (2001) is an ethereal and sharper interpretation, quite true to the blossom, if only rather fleeting in Eau de Toilette (alas the only offering).Début by parfums DelRae is an intensely lovely and sylphid-like lily of the valley composition by Michel Roudnitska, which shines like ivory pearls on a long smooth neck. For those who prefer a soft and creamy treatment of the note, I suggest they try Muguet de Bonheur by Caron (1952).

Acaciosa by CaronAnais Anais by Cacharel (along with lily)Antilope by WeilAqua Allegoria Herba Fresca by GuerlainAqua Allegoria Lilia Bella by GuerlainBe Delicious by Donna KaranCapricci by Nina RicciChamade by Guerlain (along with hyacinth)Clair de Musc by Serge LutensClimat by LancômeDazzling Silver by Estee LauderDébutby DelRaeDior me, Dior me not by Dior (limited edition of 2004, along with sweet pea)Diorissimo by Christian DiorEau d’Argent by MontanaEclipse by Parfums De NicolaïEnvy by GucciHelmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Eau de Parfum (discontinued)Jessica Mc Clintock by Jessica Mc ClintockKoto by ShiseidoLaura by Laura BiagottiLauren by Ralph LaurenLe Muguet by Annick GoutalLe Muguet de Rosine by Les Parfums de Rosine (discontinued)Lily by Dior (limited edition of 1999)Lily of the Valley by Crabtree and EvelynLily of the Valley by FlorisLily of the Valley by Penhaligon’sLily of the Valley by Taylor of LondonLily of the Valley by Winds of WindsorLily of the Valley by YardleyMiss Dior by Christian DiorMiss Worth by WorthMughetto by L'ErbolarioMughetto by Santa Maria NovelaMughetto di Primavera by I profumi di FirenzeMuguet by Cotswold PerfumeryMuguet by Guerlain (limited edition, launches for May 1st only each year)Muguet by MolinardMuguet by SlatkinMuguet de Bois by CotyMuguet de bois by Yves RocherMuguet de Bonheur by CaronMuguet de Mai by Roger & Gallet (discontinued)Odalisque by Parfums De NicolaïRemember Me by Dior (limited edition of 2000)Sampaquita by Ormonde JayneTiare by ChantecailleUrban Lily by Strange Invisible PerfumesW by Banana RepublicXS pour Elle Paco Rabanne

What an amazingly comprehensive compendium of lily of the valley fragrances and so much info on how the accord is made by perfumers! Superb work, Elena! I admit I am in agreement with Fiordiligi, nevertheless. Rather ironic that all this trouble is for a flower that cannot be rendered naturally, isn't it?

What a lovely piece to read this morning. It makes me want to run and dab on some muguet, though (1) I only have one perfume with me now, and (2) I'm not even that fond of lily of the valley. I hope you're feeling better.

Hello, E. Thanks for the lovely and incredibly informative article. I was just this evening mulling over the difference between lily of the valley and lily notes, and, voilà, here is your article to enlighten and elucidate. Very interesting to see the "fatty, waxy, aldehydic" notes listed as an important component.

great minds think alike: vintge Diorissimo was also my choice. I cherish those batches as they offer the really intimate touch than inhaling a nosegay of the tiny bells offers deep down. The newest formula is a little screetchily clean for my tastes.

I believe the importance of the lily of the valley note is edged on its enhancing the aspects of other ingredients: aids diffusion and sharpens too narcotic flowers as well, freshening them up. It's amazingly popular as a note in most feminine fragrances today.

thank you honey, I do feel much better although seasonal allergies are afecting me a bit. Appreciate your concern!

Are you en route? Do mail me as soon as you have a shipping address available ;-)

Yes, muguet is a funny little thing, with a radiant projection, but not always the easiest to make one's own. I really think you should try Debut, though: it manages to inject a lustrous pearly finish that is quite sensuous... :-))

how fabulous! I would be very interested in finding out how you construct the accord, as natural perfumers don't have the shortcuts of synths. I deduce it varies with each artist, of course. I'm sure your fragrance will turn out wonderful.

Oh good on you dear J!!I think the vintage parfum is the one which keeps best. I had some EDT which was a little bruised muself, the initial freshness was gone. The top notes are a little fragile in this one.

I highly recommend Debut too! Give it a try if you haven't already (I think I have some someplace, would be my pleasure to send it to you if I manage to find it; or when I upgrade to a bottle)

Hello E and thanks for such an informative article. I love the list and I was surprised to find one or two fragrances on there. Clair de Musc? I never would have guessed LotV as a note. Must resniff. In fact, I love it and someone has offered me a decant that I just need to pick up.

I have not been a huge fan of fragrances with dominant LOtV notes. It is, however, a note that blends nicely in so many classic floral aldehydes. Revillon Detchema comes to mind. Most recently, I have been wearing Odalisque, so maybe I'm ready to move up to the soliflores. It is a stunner!

Can anyone suggest any lily of the valley scents that skew masculine? I find many bring out a heavy jasmine, which I find undeniably feminine (and I'm a man who wears tuberose). I also associate masculine with "not sweet," but I'm willing to hear everyone out on their suggestions :-)

thank you honey for chimming in!Often when you get a sharp clean or soapy note in a given fragrance it's some lily-of-the-valley hiding in there ;-)Detchema!! Of course! How could I forget it, am adding it as we speak. You're absolutely right. And of course I agree on Odalisque.

just saw your comment, sorry for the lateness in replying. I think the re-issued Insense by Givenchy, as well as the discontinued Helmut Lang can be worn without qualms. I also think you can give a shot to Le Muguet by Goutal: it's not jasmine-y to my nose.

more etymology: both nutmeg and muguet originate in Late Latin muscade and Late Greek moskhos, in turn from Persian mushk, in turn from Sanskrit muska-s: musk. And the musky smell is what caused people to name the related musk-ox, muskrats, muscat grapes, as well as the nutmeg. The Sanskrit word means 'a testicle', since the gland of the deer it comes from was thought to resemble a scrotum. It is a diminutive of mus: a mouse and related to mouse and muscles as well (when you flex your muscles it looks like a little mouse under the skin). More than you ever wanted to know. But if muguet perfumes smell sexy, maybe it's that musk affinity.......

You're most welcome, Ann. LOTV is very spring-like and when done as superbly as in vintage Diorissimo it can also be quite romantic. I need to try the Floris. I remember I liked their night-scented stock (?)

Elena Vosnaki has been the Perfume History Curatorof the Be Open Foundation exhibitionThe Garden of Wonders, A Journey in Scents in Milan EXPO, as well as a guest lecturer at the Athens School of Fine Arts. She was Fragrance Expert onAbout.com. Her writing has been twice shortlisted in FIFI Editorial Excellence Awards and is extensively quoted by authors. She is an evaluating expert on Osmoz.com. Interviews regarding Vosnaki's unique status as perfume historian & writer appear in VOGUE Hellas, ICON Magazine and Queen.gr