Trekking in Otter Space

One of the world's most exclusive hikes, this 4½-day journey along South Africa's coast isn't for the fainthearted

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THE SEARCHERS | The author's group heads uphill
Amanda Couper

By

Esther Spaarwater

Updated Feb. 23, 2013 12:40 a.m. ET

"MADAM, YOU DO know this is a survivalist trail?" the mildly irritated, yet polite, voice on the telephone asks. Well, of course I do, but the word on Hiker Street is that a bit of sweet-talking can persuade the park ranger to deliver chocolate, beer and barbecue meat to a weary hiker on the last evening of the Otter Trail. Chastised—after 17 years in England, I don't want to be seen as "soft" in my native Africa—I hang up, perplexed as to whether the takeout service exists.

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Water-gazing
Amanda Couper

Along with five friends from the U.K., ranging in age from 38 to 47, I am hiking one of the most scenic and exclusive trails in the world. The Otter Trail, which snakes along the east coast of South Africa, is named after the shy—and, in our case, unencountered—Cape clawless otter. The only hint of otter we see is the yellow-painted paw prints that act as way-markers.

The 4½-day trek across 26 miles starts near the mouth of the mighty Storms River and hugs the Indian Ocean westward through the Tsitsikamma National Park until it ends on the yellow sands of the laid-back holiday settlement of Nature's Valley. An alluring combination of majestic sea views, dense forest and open headland with colorful fynbos (shrub land unique to this stretch of South African coastline) makes this conservation area a front-runner in the most-beautiful-scenery category. The trail's 12-person daily limit, restricted by the number of people the overnight cabins can accommodate, gives it added cachet—and a 14-month waiting list.

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An otter in Tsitsikamma National Park
Gallo Images/Getty Images

After a short, strenuous walk navigating loose rocks on day one of our trip last November, I introduce myself to the other six walkers joining our group on the hike: two English, two Australians and two South Africans. Val, one of the South Africans, greets me with: "I just squeaked in. I'm 65 [the maximum age allowed on the trail] and I had a knee replacement two years ago." We walk in awe of Val for the rest of the trip.

On paper, the hike, along a stretch of coast known as the Garden Route, appears easy: The longest day demands 8.6 miles of walking; all other stretches are under 6 miles. But don't be fooled. The Otter Trail isn't for the fainthearted or the unfit. You have to carry everything you need on your back. This includes a sleeping bag, five days' worth of food, pots and pans and cutlery, flashlights and candles, clothes, first-aid kit and, if you are determined, alcoholic beverages. Liquids are heavy, and on our hike we nominate the youngest in our group to carry a second half-bottle of wine on behalf of the oldest; the rest of us pack our own.

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A sandy portion of the hike
Amanda Couper

The terrain is also tricky. Boulder-hopping with a heavy backpack takes time and is tiresome. The path is narrow and uneven in most places. Sometimes I get the feeling that this linear route was designed with a single purpose: to give the happy hiker a near-continuous view of the rocky African coast.

Where large boulders, vertiginous cliff faces and impenetrable gorges force the path to divert, it follows the shortest route around the obstacle back to the next breathtaking vista. But that means a never-ending series of ups and downs. Day two of our hike, the most undulating stretch, is met with exasperated curses echoing across several gorges as sweaty walkers reach the end of a long, steep climb only to be faced immediately with an equally challenging downhill stretch. I remember Val and her replaced knee, and decide to complain less.

If the otter is the symbol of the trail, the sound of the sea is its soundtrack. Even when you can't see it, you can hear its thunderous roar day and night. At times, it is as if a primordial battle is raging between sea and land. The Indian Ocean furiously hurls itself against the jagged coast and the air shudders with the power of its large explosions.

‘Day two of our hike, the most undulating stretch, is met with exasperated curses echoing across several gorges.’

The animals we encounter take it all in their stride. On day three, a troop of baboons go about their daily grooming and tick-picking tasks with nonchalance, ignoring both the camera-toting hikers and the dollops of yellow foam blowing off the angry sea. Barely two hours later, a pod of bottlenose dolphins surf the ferocious waves to within inches of the rocks, emerging in the quieter backwater seconds later. Only the Cape genet (a spotted, cat-like mammal native to southern Africa) attempts any level of interaction with us on the first night, skulking just outside the light circle of the campfire in anticipation of some leftovers, having become accustomed to the free handouts at the overnight stopping points.

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A cluster of prized cabins
Amanda Couper

At key points along the trail are sets of log cabins, each housing six, which we arrive at every evening, just before dusk. The cabins are situated at sea level in a sheltered space, usually each with its own bay and, the one nod to luxury, flushing thronelike toilets—all with a view out to sea. The outdoor showers, too, wow us and even the lack of hot water isn't off-putting after a hard day's walk. This becomes an issue, however, for those hiking in the winter (June to early September) when the air temperature drops sharply after sunset.

Several rivers cross the trail as they empty into the sea, and getting across them dry often means waiting for low tide. The Bloukrans River is the most notorious, and our band of walkers discovers on the fourth day why it has earned the Otter its reputation as a survivalist trail.

The Lowdown: South Africa's Otter Trail

Getting There: The nearest airport, Port Elizabeth, is about a two-hour flight from Johannesburg on South African Airways or British Airways. Rent a car from the airport and drive 115 miles to the trail at Tsitsikamma National Park. The hike is linear, so park your car and use a transfer service, such as Gecko Transport and Tours (geckotours.co.za). Gecko will also collect you from the airport if you don't want to hire a car.

When to go: Any time of the year, though it can be very hot in the height of summer (January to March). Winter has sunny days and chilly nights, and you'll find a bit of rainfall but pleasant temperatures from August to November.

The hike: For more information on booking, visit the South African National Parks website (sanparks.org). Be prepared to accept a booking in the less-popular winter months (June-August), and don't rely on this site alone for information on what to take. Online forums are good for this purpose. Note: You have to be between 12 and 65 years of age.

The cost: About 800 rand ($90) per person upon booking, plus a local conservation fee of about 300 rand ($34) per person.

What to bring: Take at least one waterproof bag, large enough for one backpack, for the Bloukrans River crossing. Research the tide timetables and plan this crossing accordingly

The stormy sea, combined with a particularly high low tide, mean that our wait for the water to go down is in vain. Even after three hours, the Bloukrans isn't only impassable on foot, it is positively aggressive, choppy and dangerous. Our collective lack of thorough research and trail planning becomes glaringly obvious: Between 12 hikers, there is only one waterproof bag with which to ferry 12 backpacks across the swirling water. (In my head, I compose a letter to South African National Parks, which manages the trail, asking them to give more specific instructions on the need for a flotation device.)

The fear factor is high. It is 5 p.m., darkness will set in at 7:30 p.m. and there is still a steep 2½-mile stretch to finish before the end of the walking day. It takes 20 minutes to get one pack safely to the other side of the river. Doing the math means only four of us will make the crossing. The other troopers retreat, braving the near-vertical climb back out of the Bloukrans Canyon, from where they follow an escape route to mobile-phone reception and get a lift in the park ranger's pickup truck to the hut.

The pain, angst and exertion is all worth it in the end. Both groups arrive at Andre Huts, the last stopover on the trail, just as the large, red-burning sun is about to sink heavily into the sea, and before it does, we quickly get the fire going.

The ranger who delivers our party to the hut also comes bearing a box of delectables. It contains several barbecue packs, each consisting of two lamb chops, a chicken leg and an arm's length of sausage for the princely sum of 45 rand (about $5). And chocolate and ice-cold beer. Our happiness is complete.

Walk on the Wildlife Side: Other Animal-Sighting Treks Around the Globe

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Overland Track, Australia
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Overland Track, Australia

One of the best-known wilderness bush walks in the world, this 40-mile, six-day trek in Tasmania challenges and rewards in equal measures. A well-maintained path snakes from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair (Australia's deepest fresh-water lake) and runs against mountains and beech and eucalyptus forests. Hikers might spot a Tasmanian devil, as well as native pademelons (smaller cousins of the kangaroo) and wombats.

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Skyline Trail, Canada
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Skyline Trail, Canada

The 27-mile trek in Alberta's Jasper National Park has been described as one of the most beautiful in North America. With a good deal of terrain located above the treeline, the trail offers spectacular views of the Rockies. It can be completed over three days and hikers can look out for woodland caribou, grizzly bears, wolves and cougars. Be warned: The mountain weather can be treacherous.

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W Circuit, Chile
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W Circuit, Chile

Brave the Patagonian winds on this four- to five-day trek in the Torres del Paine National Park—or if you're feeling hardy, you can go for the nine-day O Circuit. Hikers will be rewarded with breathtaking views of glacial lakes and ancient forests. If you camp or stay in basic refugios, you are guaranteed to see plenty of guanacos (relative of the llama) as well as an Andean condor, a majestic bird. A good local guide should also be able to help you track an elusive puma.

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Cities of the Holy Roman Empire Walk, Germany
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Cities of the Holy Roman Empire Walk, Germany

This romantic five-day hike in the Franconian region of Bavaria wends through former Roman cities as well as monasteries, forests, rivers, farmland and picturesque villages. It starts in the town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber and ends in Nördlingen, via the Ries plateau, a 15-million-year-old meteorite crater. Trekkers might see tusked wild boars alongside an abundance of birdlife.

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W Circuit, Chile
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Ladakh, India

The snow leopard is not only on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's red list of endangered species; the population is believed to have declined by at least 20% over the past two generations. It is also extraordinarily shy and adept at avoiding contact with humans. Give yourself the best chance of spotting one of these magnificent cats by trekking in India's Ladakh region.

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