Cabbage Is An Old Staple That`s Still Fit For A King, And It`s

Nutritious, Too

March 13, 1988|By Abby Mandel, (copyright) 1988, Abby Mandel.

Imagine a world without cabbage. No reuben sandwiches, no coleslaw, no hot dogs with sauerkraut, no sweet and sour soup. From where I stand, a pretty grim thought. Devoid as it is of glamor and trendiness, cabbage is one of my favorite vegetables and the one that amazes me most.

I marvel at its natural sweetness and robust, earthy flavor. I celebrate its versatility as well as its availability and low price. And I can`t help noticing all the good notices cabbage has been getting from nutritionists. But most of all, I love the way cabbage tastes.

It is well worth becoming acquainted with cabbage. Other winter cabbage favorites include bok choy and Chinese cabbage. Brussels sprouts are another member of the cabbage family worth exploring.

Those who profess to dislike cabbage should try to forget bad experiences. Even if you`re an avowed cabbage hater, the three recipes that follow are bound to change your mind.

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Despite the simple list of ingredients, this dish has remarkable goodness and finesse. It`s not at all strong-in fact, it`s surprisingly sweet and mild. Pair it with sauteed sausages for an impromptu version of choucroute garni, or serve it with roast pork, game or country-style ribs.

SIMMERED CABBAGE AND NEW POTATOES

Five or six servings

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

2 medium onions, peeled

5 small red new potatoes

Half of a small head cabbage (use 1 1/4 pounds)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups chicken stock or broth

3 tablespoons fresh parsley

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Mince onions in a food processor or by hand. Cut the potatoes into sixths. Core the cabbage and cut it into 1/4-inch ribbons with the ultra-thick (8 mm.) slicer of a food processor or by hand.

2. Melt the butter in a large saute pan. When it is hot, add the onions and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and 1 1/2 cups stock or broth. Cover and cook over medium heat just until the potatoes are almost (but not quite)

tender, about 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and continue to cook until the cabbage is wilted and the potatoes are tender, about 6 minutes longer. The recipe can be prepared two days in advance to this point. Reheat gently, adding a bit of water if it seems too dry.

3. Just before serving, drain any excess liquid. Mince the parsley and tarragon and add it to the pan with the salt and pepper. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately.

Microwave oven: Follow step 1. Combine the onions and butter in a 3-quart microwave casserole. Cook on high power (100 percent) for 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and 1/2 cup of stock or broth, cover and cook on high power until they are almost, but not quite, tender, about 8 minutes, stirring once halfway through. Stir in the cabbage, cover and cook on high for 6 minutes. Remove the cover and stir well. Cook, uncovered, until the cabbage is tender and most of the liquid has cooked away, about 3 minutes. The recipe can be prepared two days in advance to this point and refrigerated. Reheat on high power for 4 to 5 minutes. Finish as in step 3.

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Stuffed cabbage is one of the glories of winter dining. This rendition-pork heartily flavored with greens and bits of prune-is one of my

favorites. Instead of individually stuffed leaves, the whole head is stuffed and refashioned into the original likeness of the cabbage.

SAVORY STUFFED CABBAGE

Six to eight servings

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 2 1/4 hours

1 large head cabbage, about 2 1/2 pounds

3 large garlic cloves, peeled

2 medium onions, peeled

8 ounces beet greens, stems and center veins removed

4 ounces pitted prunes, about 12

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 pounds ground pork loin

3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

2 large eggs

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

3 cups chicken stock or broth

1 cup water

2 bay leaves

1. Fifteen minutes before baking, place rack in center of oven and preheat to 350 degrees. You will need a 4-quart covered casserole, two large mixing bowls and a double thickness of cheesecloth to line one bowl.

2. Cut an ``X`` about 1/2 inch deep in the core of the cabbage. Cook in 4 quarts of boiling water 10 minutes. Drain and cool. Remove the large outer leaves and cut out the thick ribs. The cabbage heart (10 to 12 ounces) will be chopped; don`t separate these leaves.

3. Mince the garlic and onions in a food processor or by hand. Finely mince the cabbage heart and beet greens in a food processor. It can also be done by hand, making sure it is very finely minced. Mince the prunes to the size of raisins.

4. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the garlic and onions and cook over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the minced cabbage and beet greens, prunes, meat, bread crumbs, eggs, salt, mustard and allspice. Mix well.