The prepared foods counters at many supermarkets give me a sore neck. That's from craning to see if anyone will appear to help me. (You know what I mean.) Clearing my throat and raising my eyebrows -- a polite sort of incantation -- never seems to summon anyone either. Food, food everywhere, and not a bite to sample (or something like that).

I don't have this problem at the prepared foods counter at King Ranch Market, the 19,000-square-foot Latino grocery that opened about a year ago on Wells Avenue. The folks at the King counter are on it, their spoons ready at your approach.

Do you want some carnitas by the pound? (They're scooped from a mound punctuated by the bright green of humongous California chiles.) How about chicharrones to crunch? Maybe a large combo plate (beans, rice and choice of entrée) for $4.99? Or a sample of something?

If you can't make up your mind, you can always snack on the homemade tortilla chips and salsa set out on the counter.

One recent afternoon, my lunch companion and I try the combo plates and a couple of accessories on for size.

The refried beans actually possess some body (they're not just pasty texture), and we love the handful of crumbled queso fresco on top. The Mexican rice isn't spectacular -- when is it ever? -- but it's not overcooked, and peas and corn kernels add color and mouth feel.

For my combo entrée, I choose "meatballs" composed of ground chicken, onions and bits of red chile and cilantro. It appears the firm, tasty orbs are breaded and deep-fried before being cooked in a spicy tomato sauce. The chicken balls are as big as golf balls, and the counterman hefts four of them onto my plate.

My companion opts for the fish cooked in the same spicy sauce. The counterman gives her three pieces (including the head, which she adores), and they end up delivering almost as much meat as the whole fish itself. For a supermarket counter, the fish isn't bad: It's fairly flaky and tender, and we don't mind the occasional bone (we're experienced whole fish eaters).

Tamales, this afternoon, are stacked behind the hot foods, robed in corn husks, mute but expectant. I liberate a pork tamale. It isn't as good as one freshly made, of course, but the masa is still moist, and the shredded filling is tender and gently spicy.

Green chiles sliced into ribbons and chunks of beef draped with fat consort in a spicy stew. The stew isn't an everyday dish -- that glorious fat! -- but it's a delicious occasional treat. My companion takes the leftovers home.

The prepared foods counter gets busy at lunch, but the staff keeps things moving. King Ranch doesn't have indoor seating, so there is sometimes a wait at the register. Not to worry. The aromas escaping your to-go container keep you company.