North to South

If I had to pick a fave section of the John
Muir Trail, I think this would be it. Southbound hikers
have a battle ahead of them. From Palisade Creek, one has
no choice but to go up (ignoring, of course, the descent
into Tehipite Valley, the escape from which is its own
set of switchback horrors.) Southbound hikers have an special
bonus ahead of them as well. The Golden Staircase awaits.
After a mellow ascent along Palisade Creek to Deer Meadow
(the actual "meadow" part of which I have yet
to see) it begins in earnest. Our strategy was to hit the
staircase first thing in the morning, which meant camping
as close to its base as we could. Yes, it's intense, but
it's also intricate and wonderful. Easy to see why it was
the last segment of the trail to be constructed. The valley
sprawls downward with more and more grandeur as you near
the top, and the views (on a clear day) of Devil's Crag
are marvelous. Once at the top of the main staircase there's
still some uphill to tackle, but in comparison, it's fairly
mild. Soon, the trail drops you off at Lower Palisade
Lake. Make time to have a lingering lunch here. It's about
the most gorgeous and serene lake on the trail (my opinion)
and you'll want to loiter a bit. Next stop, Mather.
Actually, our tactic headed southbound was to camp in the
marvelous area above Upper Palisade Lake, where a tributary
stream tumbles across the trail and there is an abundance
of fine, secluded campsites. From there, Mather was a stab
of effort that we tackled the next morning. Dropping
over dramatic Mather Pass the trail descends into terrain
that is as wide and open as the Palisade Basin is narrow.
Upper Basin might be my favorite stretch on the trail--hundreds
of tiny lakes, wide open spaces, cool meadows, relative
seclusion and spectacular views.

South to North

From the South Fork King's River the climb
to Mather Pass is gentle and scenic. It takes about six miles
to climb the 2000 feet or so to the crest of the pass, the
steepest part of which is that last circling assault up Mather's
southern face. If you're aiming for Palisade Creek (or even
Deer Meadow) by day's end, prepare for a long, knee-jam descent
once you crest the pass. You may not notice the pain, however.
The views as you descend into the Palisade Basin are extraordinary.
Continuing down the basin you pass Upper Palisade Lake (well
above it) and then beautiful Lower Palisade Lake, where rest
and a snack are imperative. The approach to the fabled Golden
Staircase is mellow, and even produces a bit of suspense.
You just know that at any second the trail's gonna get steep.
When it does, it's a thrill. The drop down towards the valley
below is severe and convoluted, while never actually being
very dangerous (although on our southbound trip in 2002,
the trail was blocked by a massive hunk of granite, requiring
a jelly-kneed talus detour.) After the tumbling descent of
the Staircase, the trail levels off and trickles down alongside
Palisade Creek to meet the Middle Fork of the Kings River.