A year after first opening, Silom's Via Maris, the Mediterranean bistro headed by the Vesper and Il Fumo group, has undergone a revamp and reemerged as a natural wine bar.

A bold new wall mural sets the scene for a wine list (currently around 30-bottles strong, starting at B1,400), curated by sommelier Thanakorn Mankit, that highlights small, craft producers who deliver on buzzwords like "natural," "organic" and "biodynamic."

There are around seven wines available by the glass—try the Domain Roche Cote du Rhône (B320), a French biodynamic red, or go for the smooth and refreshing Zarate Albarino (B340), a Spanish biodynamic white wine.

Under head chef Francesco Deiana, the once North African-inspired menu has now taken an Italian turn.

Though some old favorites remain, like the roasted, milk-poached cauliflower with creamy labneh (B340), a new focus on Sardinian and Sicilian classics sees the likes of Sardinian-style suckling pig (B790) with wild rocket and Chardonnay mustard and salt-baked whole wild sea bream (B1,190) come to the fore.

The changes make for a very solid pre-gaming spot before hitting up the cocktails of next-door's Vesper.