BEST ASIAN GROCERY (2004)

It was the surf clams that caused us to fritter away damn near an entire afternoon in this vast, but hard to find, market. As confirmed Asian food lovers, we were predictably agog over United Noodles' bounty even before we spotted the pretty clams. We'd ogled the vacuum-sealed cuttlefish, scanned the wall-long array of pot stickers and frozen dim sum items, and contemplated the very nicely priced bags of genmaicha, green tea with roasted rice. Then, there it was, a one-pound box of frozen giant surf clams--big, thorn-shaped beauties with wide white bases and brilliant crimson tips. We'd ordered them before, at various sushi restaurants, but it had never occurred to us that for $9 we might take them home. In an instant, we were committed. An aisle over, amid the produce, we found baby bok choy and napa cabbage. A little ways more, we picked up blistering sambal, fish sauce, and other condiments with which to dress our concoction. Oh yeah--and noodles. We got some fresh rice noodles to toss in with everything. Reader, it was an inspired trip. And all because of the surf clams.