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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club. This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others.

The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.

The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy. The best way up is up to you.

The second pitch is the main event. Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks. There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top.

Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.

Location

This is the central feature of the Schwa Area. Look for the diving board to the left of a widening crack.

"feels a lot like the fox" ?! guess i'll have to try it myself! LOL... a fist crack that feels like a varying sized, right-facing corner sounds counter-intuitive, you think it is as BURLY as the fox?
Oct 18, 2010

jon- the Schwa is probably less physical than the fox from the beginning of the second pitch to the ledge rest, but the upper offwidth is WAY burlier than whats on the fox. Its straight in #6 camalot at the crux and is pretty physical before and after as well. I'd call the Fox 10c, this is 10d, its probably .11b if you do the direct start and link the whole thing into one big 70m pitch.
Oct 21, 2010

I did the original 5.7 pitch leading into the splitter and thought the climbing was varied and better than it looks. We saw several big chuckwalla's in the cracks too. The traverse left to the base of the splitter is airy, fun and worth it.

The second pitch is excellent and a must do for those looking for splitters. Bonus points if you bat hang off the diving board!

I wouldn't bother bringing anything larger than a #5 camalot and the old #3.5 camalots are great for the off-fists part. You can get back to the ground with two single raps on a 70m and I added another nut and some cord to the top anchor.
Mar 13, 2012

Thin hands at bottom of P2 are crux (.5 and .75 camalots) - cruisy tight fists up higher, and good fists in the flare up higher...like 2 moves that you could offwidth if so desired, but really just a fist crack. 5.9 fists with 10d thin hands.

Leave the big gear at home and just bring as many #4's as you can. I only placed the big stuff I brought because I didn't have enough 4's (only had 2...walked 'em after the plank, yarrrr)...the "straight in #6" is barely that. #4's in the back...

Absolutely stellar line! Might need to get a rogue hoe and build a proper trail up to this thing.
Jul 25, 2013

From the anchor one could do a double-rope rap all the way to the ground. Alternatively, with a single 60m rope, rap to the Diving Board and then easily scramble to the anchor atop the route Beautiful Bastard. From here, rappel two more times to the ground.

The direct start involves some 5.10- climbing up hollow rock above dubious pro. The actual crux (mid-5.11) is challenging but well protected provided one has one or two pieces in the blue Metolius or red C3 size. That's the sweet spot: 0.3 Camalots are a touch too big and blue Aliens a touch too small.
Apr 22, 2016