Description

Start in the crack right of Red headed Yeti. Both routes share the same crack for about 15'. Go right at the anchors on the hidden ledge for the Betty. Follow obvious crack to the anchor in a chimny. There may be some loose rock near a cherry bush and horizontal area of funky rock.

Some loose rock in the last 20 feet before the anchor could be dangerous to people on the belay ledge between Monster Crack and Primal Institution. Suggest using Primal Institution anchors until resolved.

This one felt only slightly easier than Nosferatu, maybe more like 5.8+? Regardless, a super fun route. Doubles to 3" worked well for doing the 70m single pitch. Didn't seem to be much for loose rock? Maybe it got cleaned off already?

Grading at this place is so weird. This was the one route that I didn't feel was super-soft. Long, fun, a little thought required to find good gear, and some face holds to keep things interesting. We stopped at the Primal Institution anchor. This was already about 100' and definitely liked having doubles of mid sizes.

Not having doubles (just standard rack), I wasn't sure how far I could go. Got to the first set of anchors on the left, found I still had gear, and kept going to the anchors at Primal Institution. I would have wanted more gear after that. I was also a little concerned about the loose-looking rock before the final anchor. A 70m rope would have definitely allowed one to do as single pitch.