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The Guide to Essential Italy

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Course Overview

The Guide to Essential Italy

Professor Kenneth R. Bartlett, University of Toronto

“You may have the universe, if I may have Italy.“ — Giuseppe Verdi

Anyone who is familiar with Italy—its glorious architecture, epic history, exquisite fine arts, and majestic landscape—understands Verdi’s passionate words. For centuries, Italy has been an irresistible magnet for people from all corners of the world, attracting the most illustrious men and women of every age as well as visitors from every walk of life. Today, it remains a mecca for cultural travelers, uplifting, fascinating, and enchanting all who travel there.

But what is behind Italy’s remarkable appeal? What makes this country such an inexhaustible place of discovery, unforgettable to so many?

Historically, Italy is one of the central fonts of Western culture, as the center of the Roman Empire, the cradle of Christianity, and the place where the Renaissance flowered. The sheer geographical density of masterpieces of art is one of the marvels of the world. Italy contains a stunning mix of history, architecture, art, and culture, all within settings of astonishing beauty. From its fabulous panorama of history and art, dating from ancient times to the modern, to its luminous landscapes and incalculable jewels of architecture, it would be hard to exaggerate the riches of this extraordinary country.

Rome —A majestic, one-stop compendium of Western civilization, encompassing wonders from the ancient Palace of Domitian and the great Colosseum to landmarks of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the modern era in multilayered profusion

Assisi —The lovely Umbrian hill town whose Church of St. Francis is one of the greatest monuments in European art

Florence — A matchless treasure house of Renaissance, Gothic, and Baroque art and architecture, where the masterworks of Michelangelo, Bernini, Brunelleschi, Caravaggio, and numerous others abound

Pompeii —An amazingly preserved ancient time capsule, revealing the intimate realities of daily life in the Roman Empire

Venice —A city that is itself a sublime work of art, and whose magical waterways and exquisite architecture give us one of the world’s most romantic and historically rich destinations

The Great Courses, in collaboration with the renowned Smithsonian, brings you The Guide to Essential Italy, your own grand tour of Italy that focuses on the most historically and artistically compelling sites. A world expert in cultural travel for over 45 years, Smithsonian Journeys, the Institution’s worldwide travel program, has created an Italian itinerary that has been honed over time to present a fascinating picture of this amazing destination. With their experts, we created a circuit that explores some of the most culturally significant landmarks, gives the opportunity to view countless impressive masterworks of artistic genius, and examines the impact of Italian history on the rest of the world. A breathtaking travel journey, this 36-segment course is a video tour and travelogue that lets you walk the streets and savor the heritage of Italy’s premiere destinations of Rome, Tuscany, and Venice, with side trips to additional treasures of Italian civilization.

The Guide to Essential Italy is a specially tailored journey of a kind no guidebook anywhere can offer—a personally guided tour that lets you explore the most famous and culturally important sites: splendorous palaces, grand piazzas, dazzling statuary, glorious cathedrals and churches, monumental artworks, and much more. In the process, you’ll take time to visit hidden gems and less traveled byways, and to make unusual and fascinating discoveries.

Your guide is Professor Kenneth R. Bartlett of the University of Toronto, an esteemed historian and scholar who knows these remarkable places in intimate detail, having traveled to Italy every year since 1970. As a cultural tour leader there for decades, Professor Bartlett knows Italy like few others do, and demonstrates a special talent for uncovering its most memorable historic, cultural, and artistic riches.

Professor Bartlett introduces you to the essential sites of these incredible cities, using location footage from the Smithsonian Journeys program as well as plenty of detailed maps so that you always know exactly where you are. In superbly illuminating commentary, he reveals the history and cultural significance of these places in detail, and offers viewing tips for appreciating what you’ll experience—whether you’re planning a trip to Italy, thinking of traveling there, or would simply like to discover this superlative culture from your armchair. Each lecture in this course is organized as a detailed walking tour, which you can take with you and listen to as you walk through the vias of Italy, as well as follow and enjoy as a spectacular visual journey from the comfort of home. Plus, the Smithsonian provides travel advice that appears at the end of every lecture: dozens of expert suggestions for off-the-beaten-path opportunities to explore more about the art, architecture, history, culture, and landscape. These tips build upon the professor’s vivid insights and offer fresh nuances to consider.

The Eternal City

Your Italian journey begins in the phenomenal urban landscape of Rome. In a full fourteen lectures on this center of Western civilization, you’ll delve into historic treasures such as these:

At sites such as the Forum Romanum, the Colosseum, the Claudian aqueduct, and the massive Baths of Diocletian, appreciate the majesty and power of the Roman Empire as well its astounding feats of architecture and engineering.

Explore great Renaissance and Baroque palaces evoking the lavish opulence of the Roman nobility, including the Chigi Palace and Palazzo Borghese, among the grandest private houses in all of Rome, and the Villa Farnesina,one of Rome’s most glorious jewels.

Among triumphs of civic architecture, admire theCampidoglio, Michelangelo’s masterpiece of urban planning; the Piazza Navona, crowned by Bernini’s spectacular Fountain of the Four Rivers; and the 19th-century Victor Emmanuel Monument.

Experience the splendor of the Roman church at the Capitoline, the papal basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, the Vatican’s Apostolic Palace and Basilica of St. Peter, and Bernini’s superlative Cornaro Chapel.

Florence and Tuscany

Here, embark on the glorious Florentine streets as you uncover the dramatic history of the city-state and savor the masterworks of art that have defined Florence for the ages.

Chart the development of the Florentine republic at sites such as the majestic Bargello and Palazzo della Signoria; stand in awe of the Medici monarchy at the Palazzo Vecchio, Fortezza da Basso, and the Chapel of the Princes;

View Botticelli and da Vinci at the renownedGalleria degli Uffizi, Rubens and Raphael at the Palazzo Pitti, and the genius of Michelangelo at the Accademia, all among the greatest repositories of art in the world.

Admire the extraordinary Duomo, whose dome is one of the wonders of the entire Renaissance; Ghiberti’s golden doors for the Baptistery, which Michelangelo declared worthy to be the Gates of Paradise; and the Boboli Gardens, among the most uniquely beautiful gardens on earth.

On your way to Florence, stop at the hill towns of Orvieto, noted for its religious architecture; Siena, where you’ll enjoy the most beautiful piazza in all of Italy; and San Gimignano, with its celebrated medieval towers.

Venice: “La Serenissima”

In the course’s final section, you’ll experience the ethereal beauty and historic magnificence of Venice, a city like none other in the world.

Investigate the history and ethos of the Venetian republic and its trading empire, as you view triumphal public architecture on the Molo of Venice, the Piazzetta San Marco, and the Piazza San Marco, attesting to Venetian glory and independence.

Explore the Gothic masterpiece of the Doge’s Palace, with its resplendent decoration exalting the Venetian state, and the Byzantine-style Basilica of San Marco, with its exquisite Door of the Flowers, elaborately adorned façade, and transcendent gilded interior.

Travel by vaporetto on Venice’s romantic canals and waterways, and visit wondrous churches constructed by merchants to proclaim their power and influence, sumptuous Baroque palaces and waterside museums, and imposing commercial buildings from Venice’s maritime past.

Walk the winding backstreets of this most dreamlike of cities, and discover jewels such as the beloved Rialto bridge, the splendid Augustinian church of San Stefano, and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a treasure trove of art and one of Venice’s greatest wonders.

A Journey to the Heart of Italian Culture

As a notable benefit of the course’s walking tours, you’ll discover exceptional gems that most tours don’t have time for. You’ll encounter the remarkable “talking statues” of Rome, explore daily life in a Florentine Renaissance palace, and visit the prison cell in Venice where Casanova was held—until, of course, he escaped!

Vivid 3-D maps allow for clear understanding of the sites, and special-access video footage takes you inside museums, numerous architectural landmarks, and brings alive additional side trips to the volcanic ruins of Pompeii and the idyllic hill towns of Arezzo and Perugia. Each lecture includes the Smithsonian’s travel insights, which are carefully crafted to lead you deeper into Italian art and culture with additional on-the-ground experiences.

In The Guide to Essential Italy, you’ll travel through the towering human achievements and the ravishing beauties of this extraordinary country—its incomparable art, romantic streets and piazzas, glories of architecture, and multifaceted history. These 36 richly enjoyable lectures form a unique resource for both the traveler and the appreciator of an endlessly fascinating culture.

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36 lectures

| Average 29 minutes each

1

Rome: The Eternal City

Begin your journey with sites along the Tiber River, which tells the story of Rome through the ages. Climb the Monte Caprino, one of Rome's seven hills, to see monumental sculptures, Michelangelo's magnificent piazza and palaces, and the outstanding decoration and artworks of the Church of the Aracoeli. x

2

The Capitoline and the Colosseum

Adjoining the Capitoline Hill, take in the grand Piazza Venezia, with its Renaissance and Baroque palaces, famous talking" statues, and masterful church of Santa Maria di Loreto. Continue with the imposing forums of Trajan and Augustus, finishing with the history and lore of Rome's iconic Colosseum, site of ancient entertainment and ritual. " x

3

Imperial Palaces of the Palatine Hill

Learn about the marvels of Roman hydraulic engineering, and visit the massive Circus Maximus and the spectacular ruined baths nearby. Then discover the great palace complex of Domitian, with the emperor's private quarters and ceremonial rooms; the houses of Augustus and Livia; and the Renaissance Farnese Gardens. x

4

Pompeii: A City Frozen in Time

Take a detour to the amazingly preserved city of Pompeii, with its fascinating view into the lives of ordinary Roman citizens. Envision the grandeur of Pompeii's forum, with its temples, municipal buildings, and public baths. Explore luxurious mansions, brothels, and bakeries; the theatre, outdoor gymnasium and arena; and the beautiful Villa of Mysteries. x

5

The Roman Forum

Learn about the history of this monumental public space, the epicenter of Rome's empire. Visit essential sites of the Forum, including the Temples of Venus and of Rome, the Arch of Titus, the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, and the House and Temple of the Vestal Virgins. x

6

Along the Via Sacra to the Capitoline

Continuing with highlights of the Forum, grasp the economic and civic functions of the Basilica Aemilia and the Basilica Julia. Take in important pagan shrines, the Curia or Senate House, and the Arch of Septimius Severus, and learn the remarkable stories of the Church of Saints Mark and Martina and the Mamertine Prison. x

7

The Via del Corso and Princely Palaces

Delve into the history of this famous street, and how it was named. Visit the Palazzo Doria Pamphili (containing a superb private art museum), the Palazzo Odescalchi, and the vast Palazzo Colonna, and learn about the lives of princely families. Discover the frescoes of the Galleria Sciarra, one of Rome's little-known gems. x

8

The Trevi Fountain and Baroque Rome

A beloved symbol of Rome, the dazzling Trevi Fountain was a showpiece for Baroque papal power. After exploring the fountain, walk to the Piazza Quirinal, and visit its two majestic Baroque palaces. Also visit churches by Bernini and Borromini, highlighting Santa Maria della Vittoria, which contains Bernini's Cornaro Chapel and Ecstasy of Santa Teresa. x

9

Above and Beyond the Spanish Steps

Walk down the famous Via Veneto to Bernini's Fontana Tritone fountain, continuing to the massive Palazzo Barberini, now a superlative art museum. Explore the picturesque Spanish Steps area, highlighting the Villa Medici, the elegant Via Condotti, and the great Palazzo Borghese, one of Rome's most lavish princely dwellings. x

10

At the Bend in the Tiber

The Piazza Montecitorio comprises the political heart of Rome. Begin with the Palace of Montecitorio, a Bernini masterpiece now housing the Italian parliament. Marvel at the storied Palazzo Chigi, the imposing Temple to Hadrian, and the sublime interior of the church of Sant'Ignazio, and the Solarium Augusti, a gigantic sundial. x

11

The Pantheon to Campo dei Fiori

Immerse yourself in the lore of the iconic Pantheon, the resting place of Raphael and other celebrated Italians. Explore architectural treasures including splendorous Gothic and Renaissance churches en route to the teeming Piazza Navona, center of Roman social life. Also visit the Palazzo della Cancelleria, the finest early Renaissance palace in Rome. x

12

Piazza Farnese to the Ara Pacis

Begin at the Piazza Farnese, one of Rome's most majestic squares, and visit its great Renaissance palace. Then take in the Palazzo Spada, with its ingenious Borromini interior, and discover one of Rome's greatest jewels, the Villa Farnesina. Conclude with two hugely important ancient sites, the Mausoleum of Augustus and the Ara Pacis. x

13

Piazza del Popolo to San Clemente

Here, admire the lovely church of Santa Maria del Popolo, with its magnificent frescoes, and the lovely Villa Museo Borghese, boasting masterworks of Bernini, Titian, Raphael, and Caravaggio. Linger at the fabulous papal basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, the Scala Santa (Holy Stairs), and the extraordinary three-level church of San Clemente. x

14

The Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica

Learn the history of the Vatican's Apostolic Palace, one of the most important repositories of art in the Western world, and savor treasures including the superlative Rooms of Raphael and Michelangelo's Sistine Ceiling. Conclude your Roman tour at the Renaissance Basilica of Saint Peter, the world's largest church and the seat of Roman Catholicism. x

15

Orvieto, Siena, and San Gimignano

En route to Florence, discover three idyllic Italian towns. First visit Orvieto, with its glorious cathedral, vast Palace of the Popes, and intact medieval quarter. Continue to the UNESCO world heritage site of Siena, an astonishing medieval time capsule, and the exquisite San Gimignano, of dramatic towers and historic churches housing sublime frescoes. x

16

Florence: Politics in Art and Architecture

Begin your tour of Florence by delving into the history of the feudal clans and merchant class that built the city. Visit the Uffizi, another of the world's greatest repositories of art; the imposing Palazzo Vecchio, with its dramatic Medici history; and the Orsanmichele, a building central to the medieval Florentine economy. x

17

From the Piazza del Duomo to San Marco

Walk to the magical Piazza del Duomo, which encompasses all of Florence's rich history. Admire the vast Duomo (cathedral), with its world-famous dome, one of the wonders of the Renaissance. Marvel at the Baptistery's extraordinary doors, Ghiberti's masterpiece, before exploring the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, home to treasures including the superb Medici Chapel. x

18

Santa Croce and the Pazzi Chapel

Begin here at Florence's Accademia, home to Michelangelo's David, before visiting other superlative Florentine museums. In particular, explore the magnificent preaching church of Santa Croce, containing a stunning spectrum of artistic riches, including works of Donatello, Giotto, and della Robbia. Finish at the Pazzi Chapel, a masterwork of architectural geometry. x

19

En Route to the Ponte Vecchio

Travel the streets of Florence, beginning with the Via del Proconsolo, one of the city's most historic thoroughfares. Enjoy architectural and historical treasures such as the Abbey of Florence, Dante's house, the fascinating Museum of the Old Florentine House, and the gorgeous Palazzo Bartolini-Salimbeni, before reaching the romantic Ponte Vecchio. x

20

The Pitti Palace

Learn the colorful history of the Palazzo Pitti, which now contains several extraordinary museums. Focus on the renowned Palatine Gallery, a veritable treasury of Western culture featuring Flemish and Italian masterpieces of painting. Then savor the delights of the Boboli Gardens, a vision of a Renaissance and Baroque paradise. x

21

The Oltrarno

Hear the romantic story of the house of Bianca Cappello, a tale of Renaissance intrigue. Then explore the great basilica of Santa Maria del Santo Spirito, with its dazzling altar canopy and 38 family chapels. Also enjoy the decoration of the nearby Brancacci Chapel, one of the most important examples of Renaissance painting. x

22

Walking to Santa Maria Novella

Begin at the beautiful Ponte Santa Trinita bridge, dating from the 16th century, and grasp its political and civic symbolism. Then walk the fashionable Via Tornabuoni to the vast Dominican complex of Santa Maria Novella. Explore the complex's great preaching church, with artistic treasures including the Tornabuoni Chapel, one of Florence's great masterpieces. x

23

From Santa Maria Novella to San Lorenzo

Continuing at Santa Maria Novella, view the superlative frescoes of the Green Cloister and the Spanish Chapel. Visit Europe's oldest operating pharmacy, founded in the 12th century, followed by the Medici Fortezza da Basso fortress, en route to the Basilica of San Lorenzo, whose Old Sacristy is a masterwork of Brunelleschi's geometric design. x

24

The Medici Legacy

Now discover Michelangelo's New Sacristy, burial place of Medici nobles and a brilliant integration of sculpture and architecture. From there, take in the spectacular Chapel of the Princes, resting place of the Medici monarchs; view the phenomenal Laurentian Library, pride of the Medici clan; and learn the intriguing history of Florence's old markets. x

25

The Ognissanti, Palaces, Parks, and Villas

Travel the Borgo Ognissanti, an important historic entry into Florence. Admire elegant palaces on the way to the church and monastery of Ognissanti, with their splendid frescoed Vespucci Chapel, Sacristy, and refectory. Enjoy the lush beauties of the Cascine Park and the Bardini Gardens, and visit the Jewel Villa, where Galileo lived. x

26

Romantic Views: San Miniato and Fiesole

Here, visit one of Italy's most beautiful Romanesque churches, San Miniato al Monte, highlighting the collective artistic genius of the Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal. Then travel to the hillside town of Fiesole, with its beautiful Villa Medici, Romanesque cathedral, and spectacular views over the city of Florence below. x

27

Arezzo, Perugia, and Assisi

On a leisurely route to Venice, stop at three romantic hill towns of Tuscany and Umbria. Begin with Arezzo, with its picturesque Piazza Grande and glorious, art-laden churches. Then discover the magnificent guildhalls, Palace of the Priors, and papal fortress of Perugia, and Assisi's Temple of Minerva and sublime Church of St. Francis. x

28

Venice: The Center of Power

As an introduction to Venice, contemplate the political and commercial history that gave rise to one of the world's most phenomenally beautiful cities. Then learn about the Molo, Venice's quayside entry point; the Doge's Palace, a brilliant masterpiece of Gothic architecture; and the Basilica di San Marco, a triumphal monument to Venetian glory. x

29

The Drawing Room of Europe: Piazza San Marco

On the magical Piazza San Marco, take account of the Renaissance Procuratie Nuove, housing Venice's Procurators (municipal officials), and Napoleon's grand neoclassical palace. Discover the remarkable clock tower, with its two beautiful and ingenious public timepieces. View artistic treasures adorning the exterior of the Basilica, and learn about Venice's historic cisterns and wells. x

30

The Basilica of San Marco

The interior of this great basilica is one of almost hypnotic magnificence. Enter through the atrium, and admire the symbolic floor mosaics and the gilded mosaics of the vaults, among the greatest anywhere in the world. Study the church's sublime decoration, highlighting the sacristy doors, the Golden Altarpiece, and the Cappella dei Mascoli. x

31

The Ducal Palace

Begin your visit to the palace at the monumental Staircase of the Giants within the regal palace courtyard. Enter the rooms of state by the Golden Staircase, leading to the elegant ducal apartments. Learn about the lifestyle and role of the Doge, as you view majestic rooms glorifying Venetian power and myth. x

32

Venetian Civilization

Enter the palace's Hall of the Great Council, called the most dramatic room in Europe, and learn about the Venetian republic's governing body of patrician representatives. Visit the palace prisons and the famous Bridge of Sighs en route to the Correr Museum of Venetian Civilization, which celebrates the republic's institutions, customs, arts, and trades. x

33

Along the Giudecca and Grand Canals

On the glorious Venetian waterways, take a vaporetto to view Palladio's churches and the resplendent Santa Maria della Salute, which dominates the waterfront. Stop at fabulous palace museums along the Grand Canal, such as the great Galleria Accademia and the Casa Rezzonico, a stunning evocation of 18th-century Venetian life. x

34

The Upper Grand Canal and San Marco on Foot

Among further riches of the Grand Canal, visit sumptuous waterside palaces, the former Jewish ghetto, and view the sweep of historic commercial buildings from Venice's maritime past. Then explore the San Marco district, featuring magnificent Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture, and learn about the lore of the Venetian gondola. x

35

The Rialto and Sestiere San Polo

Begin at the enchanting Rialto bridge, a defining landmark of Venice. From there, walk the San Polo district, a historic mercantile quarter, and visit streets and edifices recalling Venetian trading. Finish at two extraordinary treasure houses of art: the Frari, a great Franciscan church, and the glorious Scuola Grande di San Rocco. x

36

Sestiere Castello and the Outer Islands

Within the treasure-laden Castello district, discover one of history's greatest equestrian statues, the astonishing ducal tombs of the church of San Zanipolo, and a jewel-box church where wedding parties arrive and depart by gondola. Finally, take a vaporetto to picturesque islands in the lagoon, home to the traditional crafts of glass-making and lace-making. x

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About Your Professor

Kenneth R. Bartlett, Ph.D.

University of Toronto

Dr. Kenneth R. Bartlett is Professor of History and Renaissance Studies at the University of Toronto, where he earned his Ph.D. and has taught for the past 30 years. A distinguished teacher, Professor Bartlett has received numerous teaching awards and honors. These include the 3M Teaching Fellowship-awarded by the Canadian Society for Teaching and Learning in Higher Education-and the inaugural President's Teaching Award from...

Reviews

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Ptkochanny from
Very informative and engagingI learned a lot about Italy in this course and I was pleased at the professionalism and engagement of the material.

Date published: 2019-09-08

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Puff Puff from
Superb LecturesAs a CEO who has worked in Europe all of my life, I have been educated in Europe (France, Oxford, Italy); worked for decades as a strategist; and, rented houses, primarily in France and Italy. This course is wonderfully insightful: professor is witty and learned, perfect in my estimation.

Date published: 2019-09-01

Rated 5 out of
5 by
USCmom from
Accurate with good details about history, architecThis is my third Great Course and I love them all!

Date published: 2019-08-20

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Vickid123 from
This is great!We have been to Italy many times and are returning again in September. When you think you know a lot about Italy, you really don't! The professor is great and he makes you want to know more. Can't wait to get back there and visit some of the out of the way places and little known places he takes you to in this course.

Date published: 2019-08-20

Rated 5 out of
5 by
John5671 from
We've watched it over and over!When we were planning our trip to Italy a few years ago, we borrowed this from the local public library 3 different times. We're planning another trip so we borrowed it again!
Since we're borrowing it so much, we figured it was time that we bought it and kept it for ourselves.
The course is a combination of travel and history lesson: the professor walks you all over Rome, Florence, and Venice and points out all the history and artwork at each location. In fact, it almost becomes overwhelming because there's so much artwork in so many places in Florence.
If you're planning a trip, I definitely recommend taking notes about the landmarks. In fact, we when watched this the first time, we made a note about where to get some gelato in Rome... and then we easily found it when we got there.
The only thing I don't like is that the map rotates while the professor travels around the city. This makes it a little confusing to follow, especially when a north-south road is shown left-to-right instead of up-down. But this is a minor issue since it's fairly easy to just find the landmarks on a map.
And we love how we're able to watch the entire course as streaming videos! We installed The Great Courses app and we're watching it on our phones! :)

Date published: 2019-08-10

Rated 5 out of
5 by
efriedme from
Amazingly useful before a trip!I bought this a month before a trip to Venice, Rome and Pompeii, and it was amazingly useful. Once someone explains what you are looking at/for, it is so much easier to navigate the cities and understand the depth of history there. We are newly returned from our trip, and the knowledge I gained from this course was integral in our enjoyment.

Date published: 2019-07-13

Rated 5 out of
5 by
sprkymrt from
I haven't been to Italy...yet!I got this out of curiosity to see what the course would have to offer, and to my amazement, it offered everything! The lectures are comprehensive and the overhead shots give a "sense of place" to someone touring through the area and are handy in the tours and suggesting what to look for while passing by. The buildings are highlighted so as not to miss anything, and the professor describes the entire area, so one feels that they are taking the tour with him. He describes the places in Italian so a person going to Italy would have a sense of pronouncing these correctly while they are there. Great scenes, good art and a friend to guide you through Italy has me approving this Course wholeheartedly.

Date published: 2019-04-29

Rated 5 out of
5 by
rtim from
FantasticDo not visit big cities of Italy without doing this first. Especially Venice and Floremce!!! EXCELLENT!!!!