Cut out while driving

1600 engine cut out on the way home. The mechanic opened the top the following morning. A bolt on the cam had broken off in the top and the metal shavings were circulating throughout. I must state that the oil warning light stayed on for longer than the normal duration on the fatal day but the dipstick showed that there was sufficient oil in the engine.The mechanic is not prepared to simply replace the cam as he cannot guarantee that the shavings that circulated will not cause future damage. Do I look for a new engine to be sure of a clean engine or do I attempt to have the engine flushed and simply re-use the existing parts? A replacement top at a conservative guess is about 75% of the cost of a reconditioned engine. I bought the car at 53000 km and it now has 144000 on the clock. No one worked on the engine while I've had it since 2005.Please advise. Thanks.

1 Answer

Though there is no guarantee that shavings won't circulate to other areas of the engine, chances are that the majority will find their way into the sump. The gause on the oil pick-up pipe in the sump should stop big bites from circulating. The oil filter should sought out any finer particles. My recommendation would be to flush the system having made sure that all visible particles are removed from the camshaft area. An old trick is to attach a magnet to the drain plug. Is the oil warning light going out ok now?

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Some details here:COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

follow these instructions exactly, be sure u get it right or u will bend the engine valves this is an interference engine, if u have a broken belt u most likey have bent valves, about 90% of the time the valves do get bent.
here are the instructions.

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allenhead sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

At the back of the engine in between the trans. and engine is a crank sensor. It's on the pass. side of the block. Follow the crank sensor wiring that runs under the engine to see if the harness is broken. If it's in good shape then replace the crank sensor.

no dont need to take belt off if its twin cam by the sound of things
just top bolt which is inside cam belt cover remove top cam cover retainer clip in top centre if still there and then 10mm bolt in cam belt cover just down from top middle section of cover bend gently to get to cam sensor bolt if have too much trouble doing this whole cam belt cover needs removing, air box, accessory drive belt and engine mount will need jack to support engine and to reinstall mount

You may have a serious problem (timing belt tensioner). This tensioner keeps the belt 'taut' so it won't jump time. Daewoo engines are 'interferrence' engines (this means if the valve timing is 'off' (out of syncronization) you can damage/bend the valves in the head -- valve timing (timing belt ensures this). The solution is to take the vehicle into the shop and have it diagnosed to be sure/to know if any damage has occured -- if none, replace the tensioner... it's pretty simple to do, if you have the service manual.