Running Away: Cinque Terra

Italian Style Trails

After two weeks exploring the footpaths and back roads of Tuscany, my wife, Stephanie, and I decided it was time for a little sojourn by the sea. We had heard good things about Cinque Terre, a group of five villages nestled on the Mediterranean coast. Upon arriving in Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five, I was amazed to find a tourist map showing kilometers of trails. I quickly realized that in the three days we had allotted, we would barely get a taste of the trail running potential of the region.

Exiting the tourist office, we were immediately bathed in soft, cool, and fragrant sea air. Not a single automobile engine disturbed the calm: cars are prohibited in these villages. A patchwork of pastel stucco houses, built on a nearly vertical hillside, surrounded a tiny harbor crowded with fishing boats. Except for a few tourist shops, it seemed that little had changed here in centuries.

We hoisted our packs for the 4K walk to our hotel in Corniglia. High above the sparkling Mediterranean, the main path links the five villages. The lush hillsides above were busily terraced to support vineyards and olive groves. The path cut through an impenetrable brush accented with giant, sage-colored agave. An occasional palm tree added to the tropical feel, and we soaked up expansive views of the rugged coastline. Soon we passed through Manarola, another quaint seaside village built into the cliffs.

For centuries, the towns, terraces, and religious sanctuaries of Cinque Terre have been linked by footpaths. Only in recent years has the area been discovered by adventure tourists. To protect the local environment and culture, the region was designated in 1999 as the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre. The villages are an integral part of the park, as is preservation of the traditional lifestyle of agriculture and fishing.

After climbing a few hundred brick steps up to Corniglia, we checked into a simple, comfortable room with a heart-stopping view of the village and ocean. We ditched our packs and headed back out for a gentle run along the seaside path as the orange disk of the setting sun shimmered on the sea. We returned to our hotel for a hearty meal of gnocchi with pesto (a local specialty), fish, and perfect fresh tomatoes, topped off with a glass of sciacchetra, the sweet local wine. No doubt about it, we had entered a timeless Mediterranean paradise.

The next morning, we continued along the popular main path to Vernazza, which is strikingly situated on a promontory capped by a watch tower. Relaxing by the tower, we watched fishing boats cruising in and out of the busy harbor, below the main square with its attractive gothic church.

Continuing on, we reached Monterosso in time for lunch. After a little splash in the sea, we grabbed some take-out focaccia bread topped with grilled vegetables and enough butter to fuel a big afternoon. It was time to get off the beaten track and explore the hills.

We found a little-used trail and cranked up a big climb. The coastline was spread out below us as we cruised along single track through pine forests and beside terraced slopes. We marveled at the huge network of stone walls, constructed over the centuries to maintain agriculture on these sheer slopes.

Eventually we reached the miniscule hamlet of San Bernardino, with its religious sanctuary, high above Corniglia, and stopped in a bar for a snack of chocolate and beer. Thus fortified, we blasted down the last steep hill back to our hotel.

Our final day allowed time for a quick run on more spectacular trails before jumping on the train for the next leg of our Italian holiday. We boarded the train with regret, but knowing that we will eventually return to explore more of this trail runner’s paradise!

Getting There: Cinque Terre is on the train line between Genoa and La Spezia. See www.trenitalia.com/home/en/index.html for schedules. You can also drive, but will be required to leave your car in one of the lots outside of the towns (typically about 1 euro per hour). These lots may often be full during the summer season.

Seasons: The area is quite warm and also very crowded with tourists during the summer high season. For good running weather and fewer tourists, the best time to visit is April or October. Due to the proximity to the Mediterranean, the climate is mild even in winter. Many restaurants and hotels are closed for one or more months in the winter.

Resources: The Lonely Planet’s Walking in Italy is the best guidebook we’ve seen for Cinque Terre, but most of what you need to know, including a list of accommodations, can be found online at www.cinqueterre.com/eng. The Club Alpino Italiano (C.A.I.) has numbered and marked many footpaths. Kompass Wanderkarten map number 644 covers the area at 1:50,000 scale ($12, available online at www.omnimap.com). Trail maps are also available in the tourist office and many shops.