David Corbo, one of the owners of Golden View Firenze, pours Karan,...

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Chef Luca Grimaldi plates a dish of Branzino Gratinato, branzino baked with a crust of almonds, pine nuts, parsley and bread crumbs served with roasted potatoes and cherry tomatoes, a popular menu item at Golden View Firenze on Railroad Avenue in Greenwich, Conn.

Branzino Gratinato, branzino baked with a crust of almonds, pine nuts, parsley and bread crumbs served with roasted potatoes and cherry tomatoes is a favorite entree item at Golden View Firenze on Railroad Avenue in Greenwich, Conn.

Black Bass Giardiniera, black bass crudo with parsley breadcrumbs flashed in the oven and served over spring vegetables is one of the popular menu items at Golden View Firenze on Railroad Avenue in Greenwich, Conn.

The opening of Golden View Firenze in Greenwich is unique and special even in this town, where unique and special apply to many restaurants. Yes, this is yet another Italian restaurant, but this one actually comes from Italy. It is the sister restaurant to Golden View Open Bar located near the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Though Golden View here is on the less scenic Railroad Avenue, once inside diners can be transported by aroma alone. The simple, dramatic, contemporary black-and-white colors allow, even spotlight the food presented on equally simple and contemporary plates.

Tuscan dining fans will appreciate the authenticity of this menu, translating it to "American" only when it makes sense to add finishing touches and local produce. But the theme is truly Tuscan, beginning with house-made pastas and breads, and carrying on with a personally chosen wine selection bottled expressly for this trattoria. The menu is classic and traditional, based on quality ingredients alone as evidenced in the lovely selection of meats and cheese antipasti.

Among the salads, the house specialty of arugula, Pecorino and Toscano cheeses, ripe pears, walnuts and a drizzle of honey is perfection, as is the rustic octopus salad with sun-dried tomatoes, arugula and seasonal vegetable. Vegetable soup is aromatic with a rich broth and colorful, al dented vegetables and verdant herbs. Antipasti are done with care. We especially like plump, sweet mussels in garlic wine with hunks of ultra-fresh and crusty grilled bread, as well as a soul-satisfying broccoli and ricotta flan.

Pastas are familiar, but enriched with fine touches, especially the perfectly cooked ravioli either with gorgonzola and arugula or in a rich four-cheese truffle sauce. Wild mushroom risotto is the real deal, cooked long and slow, while spaghetti with clams is vibrant with flash-simmered freshness. Our favorite pasta, however, is the fabulously rich paccheri all-ossobuco, with all the right flavors and fresh pasta to spoon up the sauce.

Main courses are classic Tuscan, from grilled steak with arugula and Parmigiano to veal scallops in artichoke sauce or veal chop with truffled polenta. South of Tuscany, but a real treat, is a vibrant presentation of red snapper with onion, celery, tomato, capers and black olives. My Nana would approve.

In keeping with Italian tradition, desserts are simple, highlighted by a fine tiramisu, a lovely panna cotta or best of all, a selection of intense sorbets and gelatos.