Please do not post in this thread to ask for help with a problem. If you need help with an issue, please start a thread in the driving cab subforum.(after first searching the driving cab subforum for a solution )

1/6/2016 Update - rearranged and rewrote some stuff for the sake of clarity. Deleted some outdated info. Fixed some dead links.

WARNING!!!!Setting up a driving cab is a lot of work. It's not like a joystick cab where you install an emulator,map the controls, and can suddenly play a ton of games. Every emulator, and in the case of MAME, every game needs to be tweaked (individually) to get them to feel and play correct. Not allgames were originally wired the same way like JAMMA cabs. Some require you to reverse one or bothpedals in MAME. All require you to adjust the analog sensitivity before the controls feel right.When it comes to a driving cab it's one game at a time and every game added is an accomplishment! ....you have been warned.

DRIVING CAB GUIDE

Intro

Many people have built full driving cabs only to realize that only a handful of games are playable when they are done. Set up your software first! Know the actual games you will play, not just the type...the actual game! Know that they will actually run on your pc, what controls will be required, and what interface you'll need for the controls. Getting multiple emulators and pc games all to work with one set of controls (preferably no mouse or keyboard) can become a fairly complicated puzzle. Knowing everything that is required ahead of time can help you get the most out of your driving setup.

Those that use an optical encoder and can spin endlessly are referred to as 360° wheels. (Pole Position, Super Sprint, etc) The game can tell which direction the wheel is spinning and how fast, but cannot tell where center is.

Those that have stops and cannot spin endlessly are referred to as 270° wheels though they may rotate more or less than 270°. (Outrun, Cruisn' USA, Daytona USA, etc.) These use a potentiometer and the game can detect the wheel's exact position.

In general, games that used one type of wheel don't work very well with the other type. For example, when the car in pole position crashes, the center of the wheel is reset to whatever position the wheel was in when the crash occured. This isn't a problem for a wheel that spins endlessly and has no specific position it is meant to be held in, but if you have limited travel your new center might be all the way against the stops.

270° PC wheels work well with games that originally used a potentiometer wheel. One benefit is that most PC wheels have an automatic "return to center" spring effect even for games or emulators without force feedback. The downside is that most 360° wheel games play very poorly.

Earlier games used a simple 2 position Hi-Lo shifter. Often these only had one switch in them to save money. If the switch isn't tripped, the game assumes you are in the other gear.

Popular 3D games of the 90's used an H-Gate shifter These usually had 4 gears in an H pattern with no reverse or clutch. This is similar to a manual shifter in a real car where the shifter is put into gear and stays there. Shifters that have more than 4 gears and work this way are still referred to as H-Gate shifters. You can select "Automatic Transmission" when playing these games, but they usually reward those who select Manual Transmission with a slightly higher top speed. PC H pattern shifters work well with these games because they hold their position. However they might not be ideal for games that used the next type.

The last category is Up/Down or "Sequential Shifters". These could either be shift paddles or a 3 position (up/center/down) shifter knob that returns to center when it is released. These controls move up and down through the gears sequentially with each tap.

My personal preference is to have both a 4 speed H shifter and shift paddles. If the game has more than 4 gears, I'd rather just use the paddles.

Buttons - Additional buttons; 3D games of the late 90's usually had "start" and up to 4 "view" buttons. Popular Midway games had 3 view buttons and a "radio" button. To make navigation of the front end and pc games more intuitive, I mapped the keyboard arrow keys to the 4 view buttons and put an arrow label on each. The START button is mapped to ENTER and the EXIT button to ESC. This makes a mouse or keyboard unecessary for most pc games. D-Pads on PC wheels may serve the same purpose on newer games.

Force Feedback - Not supported in MAME. FFB is supported in a number of other emulators (see below).

Outputs - Shaker motors and lights (view buttons, race leader, etc) are possible with Howard Casto's Mamehooker It works with MAME and Supermodel. Also works with M2Emulator when running Howard's Troubleshooter 2 app.

Emulators

I feel I should mentions something about PC spec requirements here. Emulating 3D driving games requires a powerful processor, especially in MAME where the main processor is emulating everything (including the 3D rendering that other emulators would have a video card handle). Though incomplete, this chart should give you some idea of the requirements:processor horsepower chartEmulators other than MAME that utilize the video card for 3D rendering require a good one. Onboard graphics are not going to cut it. See the individual emulator sites for required specs.Looking up driving games running on the emulators on youtube can also be useful. Often the pc specs will be stated in the description.

Arcade

MAME - Good support for older sprite/scaling based games. A few 3D games will play well if you have a fairly fast processor (2.8Ghz+ for Cruisin' USA, Cruisin' World. San Fransisco Rush.....4Ghz+). A spreadsheet listing the games and details about their controls can be found here:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aq37CSO6oe1fdERrVGt0emFCWnh1WDBiaFdoUmcweHc&usp=sharing There are separate sheets for each emulation status (good, imperfect, & preliminary). This might be handy for determining which games will work on your cab, among other things. (Notice that there are less than 20 potentiometer wheel games on the good status sheet) The emulation status was last updated as of v.141

!!!IMPORTANT MAME CONFIGURATION INFORMATION!!!

For 270° wheels, set the joystick deadzone to .05 in the mame.ini file; the default .3 means that you have to turn the wheel fairly far before it does anything. Joystick saturation narrows the operating range of your wheel, i.e. you only have to turn it halfway before MAME sees it as being turned all the way. Set it to 1.

Controls are mapped the same way as any other input in MAME (press TAB in game) In the MAME menu under analogue settings, adjust the sensitivity to suit each game. Most 270° wheel games require sensitivity set to the 100-200 range. It also may be necessary to invert one or both of the pedal axis in this menu if MAME registers a pedal as depressed when it is all the way up and vice versa. Digital settings adjust how key presses respond when substituted for analogue controls. They do not affect analogue controls. Do not map the pedals to PEDAL INC and PEDAL DEC! Do not map the wheel to DIAL INC and DIAL DEC! Those are reserved for key presses being substituted for analogue input. If you map an analog control to one of those, ANY movement will be interpreted the same as a key press would. In other words, your controls won't be interpreted as analog anymore...and you're gonna have a bad time.

There is an issue with the way shifter input is handled in MAME. A lot of the original arcade Hi/Lo shifters had only one switch that was held closed while in high gear. The game would just default to Lo if that swich wasn't closed. For the sake of testing and ease of use by the majority of people, MAME developers chose to make the shifter a toggle so the button/key wouldn't have to be held down while trying to work all the other controls. This causes problems when using the original controls. Most people end up adding a second switch to the shifter and mapping the single toggle button in MAME to both the Hi and Lo switches in their shifter. This works, but the shifter easily becomes out of sync (backwards)....very confusing for guests.Dmod made a diff patch for MAME .127 that may work on other versions. (You'll have to compile MAME yourself to install the patch) There are some builds in this thread with Dmod's shifter fix applied: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134889.0.html ShifterMAME and RacerMAME are other options - see below.

Shiftermame - minwah did a custom MAME build specifically for driving games based on v.125. This build addresses shifter issues related to older games with Hi/Lo shifters. Keep in mind v.125 might not include support for some popular games of the 90's.

RacerMAME - Similar to Shiftermame. Based on v.106 and makes games compatible with any shifter. The author's shifter utility also allows sequential shifters to be used with Sega Model 2 emulator. Newer version based on MAME v.160 with groovymame patches now available!!

Cannonball - not an emulator, but a complete rewrite of Outrun into C++ by someone who knows the game inside and out. Fixes glitches present in the original game and adds enhancements like force feedback, widescreen & 60fps. Requires MAME Outrun roms for graphics & music. Other WAV files can be substituted for music. You can also create your own tracks with the LayOut tool.

Nebula's Sega Model 2 Emulator - (The reason I wanted a driving cab!) Plays many 3D Sega racing games from the mid to late 90's (Daytona USA, Sega Rally Championship, etc). Supports Force Feedback. As of v1.0, supports full widescreen without stretching! Can be set to "hold gears" if you are using buttons instead of a shifter that stays in place. Multiple setups can be linked via networking (see readme file) Tip - Pedals MUST be set to SEPARATE in WindowsSetup Guide

Vivanonno - Namco System 22 Emulator (These games are now playable in MAME, but require a VERY fast computer) Plays Ridge Racer, Ridge Racer 2 and Rave Racer. Supports paddle shifting. If any part of the settings.xml file is incorrect, Vivanonno will replace it with a new copy of the default one. Keep a backup of your modified xml file! Vivanonno sees buttons as one lower; i.e. Button #1 on the controller is seen as Button#0 Joystick settings for my Logitech MOMO wheel are: <joystick><axis handle="X" gas="-Z" brake="-RZ"/> (Pedals set to SEPARATE in Windows) Keyboard controls are entered like so (thanks isamu): <keyboard><axis gas="X" brake="C"/><button coin1="1" test="S" service="A"/></keyboard> (I still can't get keyboard mapping to work for me. I ended up adding to the autohotkey script to make the keys I have post as the default keys)THIS EMULATOR CANNOT BE LAUNCHED FROM A COMMAND LINE! I launch it from my frontend (Mala) like a PC game, with a shortcut to an AutoHotKey script.http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=105642.0

Demul - Plays Sega Naomi, Atomiswave, Gaelco 3D, & Sega Hikaru games Windows XP users are limited to version 0.5.6 due to newer versions requiring DirectX10 or higher. Version 0.5.6 plays Crazy Taxi and Jambo Safari. This version can launch via command line (demul.exe -run=naomi -rom=crzytaxi), but does not launch fullscreen. An autohotkey script can be used to post Alt+Enter to make it switch to fullscreen after launching. Pedals must be set to combined. Select a USA bios instead of auto if you want the game instructions in english. In Jambo Safari, the lasso controls are mapped under the Player 2 controls. [Joy2 Digital Down] throws the lasso, [Joy2 Digital Up] pulls the lasso

Sega Hikaru games like NASCAR Racing are still preliminary. Naomi 2 games like Initial D are playable, but require a very powerful computer and video card. Control mappings as of version .5.8 can be found here

Supermodel - Plays Sega Model 3 games (Scud Race, Daytona 2, Sega Rally 2) Has a very comprehensive input system & force feedback Requires MAME roms 0.143u6 or newer for force feedback to work. Read the ReadMe file and the help section on the Supermodel website. Search the Supermodel forums for the NoFog.glsl mod and Lemans24 shifter fix to improve Lemans24. Instructions for changing the region of the games can be found HERE

Console Emulators w/Analogue Support - These emulators work with potentiometer based wheel and pedals, but may require the controls to be configured in the options menu of each game, every time the game is launched. Tweaking analogue settings to get the controls to feel right has been a challenge. These games were meant to be played with gamepad thumbsticks which can change direction much more quickly than a wheel. If your PC steering wheel allows you to limit rotation, setting it very low (150° or less) helps. I'm yet to get them tweaked well enough for my tastes.

This is a work in progress, but here is a spreadsheet of console games with wheel support: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134588.0.htmlThis does not mean that the emulator supports wheel emulation or force feedback, only which games supported a wheel peripheral on the original console.It may be useful to someone planning on using an original xbox or PS2 in their cab.

ePSXe - Playstation 1 The Dual Analogue gamepad was not released until three years after the PlayStation, therefore the majority of games do no support analogue control. You are required to press F5 after the game starts to activate analogue control.

Project 64 - Nintendo 64 (Ridge Racer 64, SF Rush, Rush 2, Offroad Challenge) Many good ports of games not playable in MAME. Gas=A, Brake=B on most games. Since these aren't analogue anyway, have logitech profiler (if using it) post keypresses instead. It makes setup on the emulator easier.

nullDC 1.0.4 r50 w/PuruPuru plugin(included) - Dreamcast (Hydro Thunder, SF Rush 2049) Configuring the controls can be difficult due to the pedals registering while you are trying to program the other buttons. Combine the pedals and decrease the sensitivity during configuration, then change it back when you are done. Gas=Rshoulder, Brake=Lshoulder on most games. (Demul emulator might be a better choice for Dreamcast at this point in time)

ppsspp - PSP emulator. Plays Ridge Racer and Ridge Racers 2 I have not set this up on my cab yet, but plays well on my laptop.

PCSX2 - Playstation 2 emulator. I have not tried it, but know there are those with powerful computers that have played some of the racing games to completion with it. Now supports wheel emulation and force feedback!

PC games - Most older PC games (and some newer ones) require that the pedals be marked "combined" in Windows. (Model 2 emulator requires them to be marked separate) If using a logitech wheel, the Logitech Profiler software can automatically change this setting when a game is launched. If when you launch a game the menu scrolls uncontrollably, it's usually because the pedals aren't marked combined.

I don't want to list every PC driving game, but here are some notes about ones I have experience with:

Outrun 2006:Coast to Coast - Contains the arcade version of Outrun 2:SP. Doesn't support force feedback. Still lots of fun! When mapping the controls it will prompt you to press select, but it wants you to press a different button for select than what is used in every other screen for select. IIRC, it was one of the paddles on my Logitech MOMO. Howard Casto's Outrun FXT patch here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147131.0.html It adds many features including force feedback.

San Francisco Rush the Rock Alcatraz - This is an obscure (but accurate) port that only worked with one video card on the market at the time. For that reason, physical copies are very rare. It can be found on the internet though, packaged with a glide wrapper and analternative exe that allows it to run on other video cards. You must have the disc in or an image mounted for the background music to play. It supports FFB, but the wheel just kind vibrates the whole time and doesn't react when you crash. Go into the glide wrapper and tweak the filters and effects to make it look like the original. Not front-end friendly in that you must press W while in the racing part of the game to activate analog wheel control, otherwise the car will twitch like keys are being pressed rather than turn smoothly.

Midway Arcade Treasures 3 Deluxe - Contains some games not playable in MAME (Offroad Thunder, Hydro Thunder, SF Rush the Rock, etc) MAT 2&3 in one package. The ones that are part of MAT3 do not support analogue control! You can map the wheel to left and right, but the car responds no differently than it would to key presses. The few that are on MAT 2 do support analogue input (Hard Drivin, APB, Super Sprint, STUN Runner). Games can be launched by individual exes. The command line is -f to make them run fullscreen.

Electronic Arts (Need For Speed Series) - Menu can be navigated with arrow keys, enter & esc. On the older games, you must press Q to quit the game though. (I used an autohotkey script to make my radio button post Q)

Here are some measurements (to within a half inch) of the Virtua On cab that I converted to a driving cab. I'm posting this because I thought it would be useful as a starting point for someone designing their own cab from scratch. If you are looking for exact and more complete measurements for restoration or re-creation, look elsewhere.NOTE: The metal box that the seat attaches to is a couple inches taller on my virtual on cabthan on the driving cabs I'll try to get the measurement from an M2 driving cab next time I see one in the wild.

Before we get into interfacing original controls, I want to mention that there is a reason you see unmodified or lightly modified PC racing wheels put into a cab. If you want the most compatibility with newer games, it helps to be using a wheel that the newer games were designed to use. Going this route avoids a lot of headaches and usually results in being able to play more games than the fewer buttons on the original cab would allow for. Logitech Profiler software can load custom wheel configurations on the fly whenever the related exe is launched. This is extremely helpful when trying to get a wide variety of games and emulators all working their best on a single machine.

A 360° wheel with the original optical encoder wheel and board would interface via a U-HID, Opti-Pac, Opti-Wiz, mouse hack, or similar device. Most wheels are "active-low" which means the outputs are pulled to ground (0v). A few arcade wheels, such as Badlands or Roadblasters are "active-high", which output + voltage instead (usually 5v). Only the Opti-pac is compatible with active-high devices (requires setting changes via software).

Potentiometer based wheels would interface via an A-Pac, U-HID, gameport, hacked pc steering wheel, or similar device. NOTE: Most arcade controls used 5k potentiometers. They may need to be swapped out, depending on which interface is used. A gamepad hack would most likely require 10k pots. A joystick port hack would require 100k pots. The A-Pac & U-HID will work with the original pots.

The U-HID can pretty much be configured to handle anything and has outputs that can be used for LEDs or shaker motors, but not force feedback.

Make sure your interface has enough analogue inputs. Splitting controls up between multiple interfaces may work for MAME, but most pc games limit you to one controller and the keyboard. This may be an issue if using separate pedals or shifter that shows up as a separate controller in Windows. It could also be an issue if using an A-Pac since that device it is seen by windows as TWO gamepads, each with only two analogue inputs. This would cover only a wheel and gas pedal. A U-Hid or pc wheel hack is probably the better choice.

Be aware that newer wheels use an optical encoder for the steering instead of a potentiometer. There is a lot of gearing involved, so it can be difficult to mate it with original arcade hardware. Older (or cheaper) potentiometer based wheels are much easier to hack.

If you are looking for the quickest route to real arcade force feedback with the minimum amount of work then buy one of the following Global VR cabs that originally used an Immersion USB board: Need for Speed GT, Need for Speed Underground, Need for Speed Carbon, NASCAR Racing (not to be confused with NASCAR Racing by SEGA), Twisted - Nitro Stunt Racing There may also be newer PC based cabs that utilize the immersion board. These cabs ran a modified version of Windows XP, so windows drivers are available for the interface board. (see link below)

If you already have an original arcade force feedback setup and are looking to hook it up to a PC, read on....

For Sega Model 1 or Model 2 force feedback System (Virtua Racing, Daytona USA, Sega Rally) the preferred method is Aganyte's L2M2 interface, which you'll have to build yourself. here. Everyone who has used this interface is generally happy with the results. These are examples of what Model 1 and Model 2 force feedback systems look like. The force feedback motor is 110v and uses a clutch mechanism. THIS DOES NOT WORK WITH MODEL 3 OR NAOMI HARDWARE (Daytona 2, Sega Rally 2, Initial D, etc) People are working for a microcontroller (arduino) based solution and have shown working examples online, but at this time I'm not aware of them making everything available in an easy to use package.

If you want to interface a Happ Active Steering system (very common, Cruisn', SF Rush, etc):

Some have not been happy with the results of the Happ/servo amp hack. There is an issue where centering feedback must be turned way down to avoid having the wheel shake itself back and forth past the center point. Two of the members here who were happy with the hack (as well as Mark Shaker) used the older original driving force. Some of those who experienced the wobble used the Driving Force EX. I'm not sure if that plays into it, but it might be a clue. Perhaps the EX had more rotation? I think this hack can still be figured out. Driving Force: Driving Force EX:

Some of these games may require a bleeding edge PC or shifter workarounds like RacerMAME (see the driving cab info thread)I may make some system for denoting that later, but for now want to get all the games that are playable listed.I'll probably also mark the motorcycle or other type games in some way.

I haven't play tested all of these (especially the console games).If you see something that doesn't work, let me know.If I'm missing something that does work, let me know.

MAME (there have probably been some added to working status since I last checked, please chime in if you notice something missing)There are a few 360 degree wheel games that are perfectly playable with a 270 degree wheel.Those are currently missing from this list. I will add when they're tested and verified to work properly.

Console (Analog Control only):To be honest, I've never been able to get the controls dialed in well enough for these to feel right to me.As a result, I've played very little of the console games on my cab.

If you have the option, the main thing is limiting the amount of your steering wheel rotation. (if you have a Logitech G27 with 900 degrees of rotation, reduce it to 150 degrees or less)A lot of these games were designed to be played with an analog thumbstick which can change direction quickly.There's just no way to change direction on a wheel that quickly if the wheel needs to be rotated 270-900 degrees.

There are some good ports on Nintendo 64 for games that either don't work or require a lot of horsepower to run in MAME.

for those that havent seen it before.. it started life as a SEGA Touring Car, model 2. later converted to Naomi2 initial d. i stripped it out and sold off the sega hardware. I hacked in the pcb's of a logitech ffb wheel hooked up to a happ arcade ffb wheel through an amplifer. i have a happ 4speed shifter for use with model2 games (sega rally/daytona) and shifter sequential shifter buttons i fitted in the midway steering wheel.. it runs pc games and mame and model2 emulator- with full force feedback! and- becase i used a ps2/3 logitech wheel as the donor, it is fully compatible with ps3 and ps2 also!!

the ps3 connects to the arcade monitor through HD Fury and runs at 480p.- which is spot on and looks great!

anyone can use the informaion in this thread, and the thread i created to build thier own machine. alot of work, but worth it..!another note- you can buy an old arcade driving cabinet like mine, sell off the hardware and have the machine and monitor costing zero!! no excuses!!

Wow, had no idea those were available!I'll add the link to the first post.(I've always thought using an analogue joystick made sense!)

A word of warning.... by default MAME uses raw input, making programs like autohotkey and xpadder ineffective.You can change it so it uses direct input (allowing these programs to work), but I think you have to make the change in the source code and compile it yourself.

You may want to throw some of those rare files hosted by others onto the File Repository section on BYOAC. Then you could link to the new locations for added security to prevent them from disappearing over time.

Great thread though. I have a gutted PPII cab in my garage that been waiting...

You may want to throw some of those rare files hosted by others onto the File Repository section on BYOAC. Then you could link to the new locations for added security to prevent them from disappearing over time.

Great thread though. I have a gutted PPII cab in my garage that been waiting...

If no one else has figured it out I have a way to make the shifter work for the cockpit versions of hard drivin / race drivin in mame. Works perfectly with my logitech g27 h/6speed shifter. This will work on any shifter that holds the button position BUT could be made to work on a game pad that hast he 4 buttons on top like a ps2/ps3 controller as long as you hold down those buttons. But I would think there should be a way to make it work with any button input somehow.

Its likely you guys already know how to do this BUT looked like it was still up in the air according to the spreadsheet.

If no one else has figured it out I have a way to make the shifter work for the cockpit versions of hard drivin / race drivin in mame. Works perfectly with my logitech g27 h/6speed shifter. This will work on any shifter that holds the button position BUT could be made to work on a game pad that hast he 4 buttons on top like a ps2/ps3 controller as long as you hold down those buttons. But I would think there should be a way to make it work with any button input somehow.

Its likely you guys already know how to do this BUT looked like it was still up in the air according to the spreadsheet.

Experimenting with Hard Drivin has been on my to do list for a while.I don't know what the solution is and it would save me (and others) a lot of time if you shared it.

I've all but ignored MAME on my driving cab because of the hi/lo gear shifter toggle hack.Today, I finally compiled a version with Dmod's diff file (applied manually).I'm enjoying the older sprite based games a lot more than I thought I would.

Ok I hope this makes senseGo to inputs and enter the following for ad stick x analog and ad stick y analog inputs inc and dec. Make sure the ad stick real analog inputs for x and y or set to nothing.

I will make it simple and call out the gear numbers 1-4 but assign what ever buttons you want for gears 1 to 4 for (ie what ever button or switch you want for gear 1 enter that button or switch where gear one is indicated etc) . I set it up first on my shifter but tried last night and it worked perfectly on my gamepad as well.

X Dec 1&2X Inc 3&4Y Dec 2&4Y Inc 1&3

Now that works great on a shifter that stays in gear. But if you want it to work correctly on a shifter that doesnt stay in gear or a game pad etc. go to analog controls and set up y and x as follows

SET THE AUTO CENTER SPEED TO 0 or this will not work at all. This will keep it from coming back out of gear when you let go of the button, switch, etc. This step isnt needed if you have a h shifter that stays in gear.

Also make sure the reverse setting for this is turned to off.

I set the digital speed for both x and y to 200 and the sensitivity to 50 for both that way you only have to tap the button for a split second to make the shift. But you can play around with these settings to make it work the way you want it to.

You are basically moving the inputs the same way an analog set up would from the original shifter for the game only doing it digitally.

Hard Drivin and Race Drivin were never worth playing with an auto even at the arcade. You HAVE to use the clutch at times to keep the car from spinning out which you could fake by putting it in neutral instead of the clutch. BUT to slow down quickly before going off the draw bridge or the hill after the loop you could drop to first or second and dump the clutch while standing on the brake to slow down much faster. This let you run the course much faster.

I got my g27 last Friday and didnt mess with mame much that night but on Saturday I would not give up until i found a way to make it work for hard drivin. Took me about an hour to figure it out. Without being in the service mode and watching how the shifter analog inputs worked I never would have figured it out.

Maybe someone can let the guys at mame know how to do this and they can add it to the faq section for this game as they really dont go into much detail on how to set up shifters. The compact version didnt use the analog shifter BUT setting up a game pad to work the steering wheel of the compact is near impossible.

I have built several cabs in the past but I am looking to make a purely racing cab for a change and was wondering what you guys are using as a frontend? I would like to have just one list of all the games with different emulators rather than switch between them (mostly MAME model 2 & 3) I know I will have to use batch files or AHK but my problem seems to be finding the right FE, any tips?

I'm using MALA and have all my arcade games in one list (regardless of emulator) using the workaround found here:http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68419.0It seems like a PITA at first, but once you get the hang of it and understand how it works, it's easy to add new games.

I only have 2 "other emu" folders, M2 and PC_Games.For VivaNonno, Demul, Supermodel, etc., I create an autohotkey script for each game.There are only a few games on each emulator and most of them have quirks that you need an autohotkey script to deal with anyway.Then make a shortcut to the autohotkey script and throw that in with the PC_Games.

More people probably use Hyperspin and I think it allows you to have "all games" together in a list, but that will also include console games if you plan to have them on the cab. Mbasile35 has Hyperspin looking pretty good for a driving cab by switching it to hyper-pin mode and swapping in a steering wheel for the joystick at the bottom.http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114400.msg1223406#msg1223406

I'm using MALA and have all my arcade games in one list (regardless of emulator) using the workaround found here:http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68419.0It seems like a PITA at first, but once you get the hang of it and understand how it works, it's easy to add new games.

More people probably use Hyperspin and I think it allows you to have "all games" together in a list, but that will also include console games if you plan to have them on the cab. Mbasile35 has Hyperspin looking pretty good for a driving cab by switching it to hyper-pin mode and swapping in a steering wheel for the joystick at the bottom.http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=114400.msg1223406#msg1223406

Yeah, I've been following that guid but am suck in the PITA stage (it just keeps listing all the mame games), as for Hyperspin I don't mind it (got the 100+ gig version) however it won't do the simplest of things like go full screen for me, never had problems with cabs till wanting one simple list

After my post I did realise I would prob add the PC version of outrun and maybe the DC Crazy Taxi etc, was busy just geperating the working driving games from MAME at the time, oh well I will kepp trying, if not I might just hassle you for your config files

Yeah, I've been following that guid but am suck in the PITA stage (it just keeps listing all the mame games)

Off the top of my head...for best results....

> Don't keep a full romset in your mame folder. Only a couple dozen games that are playable with a 270 degree wheel work in MAME anyway.All the roms that are playable on other emulators need to be removed from the mame rom folder anyway for SGT's combined list method to work. (otherwise, they will launch in MAME where they don't work)

> Make sure you've modified Mame.xml in the mame folder to report the other games as playable (change "imperfect" and "preliminary" to good in all categories at the bottom of each xml entry) You may have to make your own entry for a game if it's not in the MAME romset.

> Make sure you've added the other_emus directory as a rom directory in the MAME tab in MALA and have mala set to search in subfolders. A zip file with the same name as the rom needs to be in that file. (It doesn't matter what it actually is)

If all those things are done, there's no reason they wouldn't show up in your all games list when it is refreshed.

> Don't keep a full romset in your mame folder. Only a couple dozen games that are playable with a 270 degree wheel work in MAME anyway.All the roms that are playable on other emulators need to be removed from the mame rom folder anyway for SGT's combined list method to work. (otherwise, they will launch in MAME where they don't work)

> Make sure you've modified Mame.xml in the mame folder to report the other games as playable (change "imperfect" and "preliminary" to good in all categories at the bottom of each xml entry) You may have to make your own entry for a game if it's not in the MAME romset.

> Make sure you've added the other_emus directory as a rom directory in the MAME tab in MALA and have mala set to search in subfolders. A zip file with the same name as the rom needs to be in that file. (It doesn't matter what it actually is)

If all those things are done, there's no reason they wouldn't show up in your all games list when it is refreshed.

Well I have got further, the roms I have sectioned off are displaying (mame, M2, M3 atm) annoyingly when I chose to launch an M2 or 3 rom it launches MAME to run them, now I would have no problem editing the mame.xml other than the fact it is 46meg big and filled with way too much info to hunt stuff down :/

annoyingly when I chose to launch an M2 or 3 rom it launches MAME to run them, now I would have no problem editing the mame.xml other than the fact it is 46meg big and filled with way too much info to hunt stuff down :/

It shouldn't be possible for the game to launch in MAME if the rom was removed from MAME's rom folder.

To edit the xml file, turn off wordwrap and use the search function to find the rom you need to edit.

I use GameEx for both of my cabs (standard stand up and a stand up driving). I really like that FE for the stand up and it certainly works fine for the driver. What I would say though is that if you want something that feels natural, you might consider using something that has a rotating menu like Hyperspin. I think having a wheel to rotate the games wheel would be natural (for a 360° steering wheel like I have anyway). There's nothing wrong with using a system with a standard list where rotating the wheel right moves down the list (fairly natural), but it seems like there would be a nice symmetry to spinning a wheel to spin the game wheel!

I use GameEx for both of my cabs (standard stand up and a stand up driving). I really like that FE for the stand up and it certainly works fine for the driver. What I would say though is that if you want something that feels natural, you might consider using something that has a rotating menu like Hyperspin. I think having a wheel to rotate the games wheel would be natural (for a 360° steering wheel like I have anyway). There's nothing wrong with using a system with a standard list where rotating the wheel right moves down the list (fairly natural), but it seems like there would be a nice symmetry to spinning a wheel to spin the game wheel!

There is a user that has done this and it looks good, however Hyperspin refuses to go full screen for me and the HS theme editor only one of the 4 options will actually work for me

I have fat fingers that flail instead of type. I meant p4. I have a 3.0 with 2 gigs of ram that seems to be running it just fine, and a steering wheel to boot. I have been busy! I'm thinking in the summer I'll be making a cozy little driver cab with my nephews.

Just to follow up on my quest to have multiple emulators running from one list, I switched to Hyperspin, and once I found out the format it is really easy to do, I have MAME, model 2, model 3, Dreamcast etc all happily running together

Just thought I'd add a little FYI for anyone that is building a driving cabinet and is watching this thread.

Cruis'n World CANNOT be left in attract mode.

It will crash everytime after a few minutes (approx 10-15 on my systems) of being left alone. Unfortunately I discovered this the hard way when there were people over but hopefully it'll save someone else. The game plays great for extended periods of time but if you leave and come back it will look like this "Unimplemented op @ 8099E8: 08AD8000 (tbl=045)". After searching around the net for answers I discovered the issue has already been reported at mametesters.org ID 02219

Does that mean that the Seattle based games are now playable (with a beefy enough system)? Do any Rush titles play?

SF Rush has been playable for a long time, it just requires a very fast processor. It was estimated to require a 10Ghz processor when first moved to "good" emulation status, but seems to run fine around 4ghz depending on the processor.

I'm barely squeaking by with a 3.4Ghz Athlon X3 and a lot of tweaking. It's playable and the music doesn't skip, but slows down in spots.California Speed has a couple issues (transmission is automatic no matter what & a small graphics glitch on one level), but looks and plays pretty good.

The big leaps lately have been on the namcos22 driver.The Ridge Racer series is near flawless and the controls are now hooked up for Ace Driver.It doesn't run fast enough to be playable on my driving cab, but it runs perfect on my alienware i7 laptop.

The gaelco3d games also seem much improved, but I'm not sure if the driver has been worked on or it's just that I'm testing them with a fast processor.

(and I'd have to agree with ZedEx48K about the Cruis'n series. Popular does not = good)

Just wondering if I can add a little something to your awesome guide for users with Driving Cabinets with Sega VR Panels.

I thought I would share my hard work and efforts over the last week with the community by releasing my first public ready release of my RamjetVR Model 2 Emulator VR Output utility.

So far it is only supporting a Utlimarc PacDrive LED controller (as thats it all I have to test with and experimenting with LEDWiz SDK now, may need testers for this though) and currently Daytona is the only supported game (The most popular game first I figured).

Now that looks totally badass. Working RPM and Speed outputs?!?!?! Your telling me I could potentially hook up some sort of functional dash with speedometer, position etc!?! This could definitely bring things to a whole new level of awesome my friend.

... But now I have to go spend more money on stupid crap for my cabinet that I don't need but just want really badly

I'm between control panels at the moment and having some issues, but I will order an LEDWiz today. Been meaning to for a while so I could tinker with MAMEhooker.Looks like I'll be adding that "Race Leader" sign to my cab sooner than expected!

I'll hold my questions until after I've had time to read through the speksnk thread.

Now that looks totally badass. Working RPM and Speed outputs?!?!?! Your telling me I could potentially hook up some sort of functional dash with speedometer, position etc!?! This could definitely bring things to a whole new level of awesome my friend.

... But now I have to go spend more money on stupid crap for my cabinet that I don't need but just want really badly

I know how you feel. I bought a wrecked cabinet for $100... spent $3,200 on it to make it special, then never get to play on it because all my friends want to play on it... so now I'm building a second cabinet, and it has to be identical to the first otherwise it'll look odd. So I now have 2 sets of Dashboard interfaces from them and I'm helping Symprojects now with the plugin to take my work and include it into their SimDash software and yes, it will be a full working dashboard running from Model 2 games (and all PC games)

Check out my Youtube channel if you want to see more on the Dashboard setup. There is a cool test video on (my coffee table) Grid and the modified dash cover.

I'm between control panels at the moment and having some issues, but I will order an LEDWiz today. Been meaning to for a while so I could tinker with MAMEhooker.Looks like I'll be adding that "Race Leader" sign to my cab sooner than expected!

I'll hold my questions until after I've had time to read through the speksnk thread.

Awesome work!

I'm working on the LEDWiz support for the app now, I'm sure it's not hard, just have to spend some time reading the sdk and blind testing since I don't have a LEDWiz to test with.

For the Race leader flashing, there is a couple ways to do it. I haven't found the memory location for that I/O yet, but I suspect that they must be in a system link before it's found. So, I'll grab a couple laptops and get cracking on that this week. It thought worst case scenario, I'd use the "cars in front" address and compare it to all the linked cars and the one with the lowest would flash Race Leader... makes sense...

Main focus was to get the VR and start buttons working first, then get the speed, rpm and gear to my custom dash and light up the original Shift Light that was on the DX cabinet.

After Daytona, I'll add (probably in this order too) Sega Rally, Sega Touring Car, Indy 500 ... then what ever seems most popular. The memory locations aren't similar between the ROMS and it takes alot of time finding outputs that you don't know the value of. I spend hours and hours visually scanning with my eyes watching for patterns in hex compared to intputs.

I've searched forever trying to find all this stuff, thanks for putting it all together! My question is about the motors used in Indy 500 and I think Sega Touring Car. Looks nothing like the Daytona motor, basically it's just a huge motor with a shaft and a wheel. I've got a pair of them and I have been unable to figure out how to drive them. Looking at some of the specs and diagrams, the best I've found is that it is a 100VAC servo motor. Can anyone confirm and is there a way to drive this without the original motor controller board?

Just wondering if I can add a little something to your awesome guide for users with Driving Cabinets with Sega VR Panels.

I thought I would share my hard work and efforts over the last week with the community by releasing my first public ready release of my RamjetVR Model 2 Emulator VR Output utility.

Dude, the community can't thank you enough for this effort. I have been waiting so long for light outputs to the M2 emulator =)

It's an emulation within an emulation really. The outputs aren't accessible from the emulator (well they are, but it's only an image of the bios and doesn't run during the game), however game conditions are that trigger them. So the output sequences are painstainkingly replicated by my utility to monitor and regenerate the output conditions that match it. Technically I'm re-writing an external version of what the original code did to execute the hardware outputs and mapping them directly to the LED controller.

I've been uber busy this week and haven't had a chance to look at it much further than the last release. I do have Sega Rally and Sega Touring Car also working now though...

I'm working hard at the moment to include a back end to output a mame compatible output system that LEDBlinky and MameHooker can use. As Howard said, hard coding the LED controller support really limits who can use it. But since I only had a PacDrive and it was initially only for my experimental use. It's a good start and it works... I'm now learning windows API calls and that's a little tasking at the moment with my work schedule. But bare with it, it's coming along nicely. Once my MAME output format is nicely intergrated, there will be a hundred apps that will be able to hook into it and more controller support that you can shake a baby at.

Badmouth's guide is a central resource for racing cab builders and I really wanted this to be a part of that. It's only going to get better. After this it's Supermodel 3 support

There's another MAME derivate i started some time ago (but still in development) called RacerMAME that was not cited here: the idea is similar to that of ShifterMAME, but it's based on MAME 0.106 so very fast even with obslete hardware.

The starting idea was a tiny version for Outrun, Chase H.Q. and S.C.I. but i ended adding 30 + games

There's another MAME derivate i started some time ago (but still in development) called RacerMAME that was not cited here: the idea is similar to that of ShifterMAME, but it's based on MAME 0.106 so very fast even with obslete hardware.

The starting idea was a tiny version for Outrun, Chase H.Q. and S.C.I. but i ended adding 30 + games

There are (nice) pictures about the joyhack, also

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I'll add a quick link now, but will expand on it when I get around to revamping this thread.There are a lot of things I'd like to rewrite and re-organize based on questions that come up on BYOAC.

Not seen this thread before, just like to correct one small inaccuracy. The U-HID board will interface optical steering wheels. In fact it will interface all control types mentioned here on one board.It also has a "pulse" mode which means high-low shifters can be configured to send a short keypress even when the switch is held permanently closed in one position of the shifter. Also has support for indicator LEDs.

Anybody get SPY hunter working properally with any drivin cabs, just wondering because i was thinking of getting a star wars yoke and use it as a analog steering wheel anybody ever try this!

It works fine, but I still suck at it.The Hi/Lo shifter has the same toggle hack applied as most games in MAME.(see first post in this thread......good if you don't have an actual shifter, bad if you do)

The star wars yoke should work fine, but you'll need more weapons buttons.

It's not hard coded you have the option to select what type of shifter you have installed. I'm not 100% sure if you can use the original 4 speed because I haven't tried using the other available shifter types.

Just ran across this, thought I'd share as I'm sure some people here would be interested in playing it. The major graphical glitches in Off-Road Challenge have been corrected and it's now playable (maybe in next version of mame?).

After the support of Cruisn' USA/World to sequential gear, i decided to "toy withn another serie that deserve particular interest: Hard/Race Drivin'. I couldn't do it by modifying the drivers (as you know, drivin' serie games rely on analog shifters) BUT i had success by writing a script to be run before the emulator. You can download it from the RacerMAME site in the download section

PS: the script works with EVERY MAME version and with Model 2 emulator

After the support of Cruisn' USA/World to sequential gear, i decided to "toy withn another serie that deserve particular interest: Hard/Race Drivin'. I couldn't do it by modifying the drivers (as you know, drivin' serie games rely on analog shifters) BUT i had success by writing a script to be run before the emulator. You can download it from the RacerMAME site in the download section

PS: the script works with EVERY MAME version and with Model 2 emulator

You sir are a hero! Finally I can get rid of glovepie when using model 2 emulator. Before I had to create an ahk to open glovepie and start a script and then load up hyperspin. Unfortunately the ahk would only open the script once windows was loaded for some reason which left me with a problem since I replaced explorer.exe with the ahk file. Now I just added H2Seq to my hyperspin start up program in hyperhq and it works flawlessly. I can just point the windows shell to hyperspin.exe and be done with it, no messing around just simply works good!

Edit: Correction I still need the ahk to load up logitech profiler before hyperspin..... but regardless the part that was giving me problems is now cleared up because of this.

Replacing the explorer shell with the favourite front end is a solution that i also tryied in the past to, essentially, remove the taskbar and desktop. This solution makes eventual modifications a pain in the butt and, like your case, the lost of features like the possibility to easily launch applications on startup. For people like me that, for obscure reasons, find more enjoyable the modification of applications and the experimetation of new solutions for the cabinet having fast access to explorer is a fundamental prerequisite. In the end i preferred to keep explorer masked by a free program called "Emerge Desktop": this let me run my FE (advancemenu, but also FEEL is a great FE) and H2Seq on startup and nothing more is needed

Hi love the post! I was wondering if anyone can direct me to where I can get a working copy of Outrun for Final Burn-FF. I read in the post that v.080 works, that is pretty old and I am not doing well finding it. Also I could use a copy of the Final Burn-FF that works. I know that the FF portion is an upgrade to v.157 Final Burn but I am have difficulties getting them to "mesh" together. Any help would be greatly greatly appriecated. I am trying to emulate outrun on my old outrun cab with force feedback. I own the outrun board so I am legit. Thanks.

Hi love the post! I was wondering if anyone can direct me to where I can get a working copy of Outrun for Final Burn-FF. I read in the post that v.080 works, that is pretty old and I am not doing well finding it. Also I could use a copy of the Final Burn-FF that works. I know that the FF portion is an upgrade to v.157 Final Burn but I am have difficulties getting them to "mesh" together. Any help would be greatly greatly appriecated. I am trying to emulate outrun on my old outrun cab with force feedback. I own the outrun board so I am legit. Thanks.

Joe

There is a link to the emulator in the first post of this thread.

Can't tell you where to get roms. It's against the rules.I used clrmamepro and a set of rollback roms to roll the rom back.(pretty sure it says what version you need on the page linked or in the readme file)

This is for using a PC wheel. It adds modern PC game type ffb, nothing like what the game originally had.

If you want to use the original wheel and the shaker motor, as it originally functioned, you'd use MAME and Howard Costa's MAMEHooker. (also linked in first post)

:dizzy:Yes I know there wil be a difference. I am still not sure how to "meld" the FF mod with the .157 final burn. How do I put it together? I want the PC ff more versitale and reliable than 86 outrun hardware also mamehooker is confusing. As far as the ROM goes I will look into rolling the rom back. I didn't know you could do that. Any other info you got would be helpful thanks for the reply.

:dizzy:Yes I know there wil be a difference. I am still not sure how to "meld" the FF mod with the .157 final burn. How do I put it together?

That's a whole nutha level there. I doubt there is any way for an end-user (like me) to accomplish such a thing. I remember coming accross a thread on the final burn forums a couple years ago where it was discussed (by end-users), but it didn't lead to anything.

If you can code and want to take a crack at it, the source code for the old final burn FFB is available at the same link mentioned earlier.Pretty sure that the emulator has changed enough that you're not going to be able to copy and paste code into a newer build to make it work.

Your best bet is to ask about it on the Final Burn forums and see if any Devs are insterested in working on it.

Howard was tinkering with Outrun and directx FFB in MAMEhooker last year, but I don't think it progressed to the point of being good enough for a release.

I figured it out I compiled mame146u4 with the latest mame version used the Dmods patch and noticed the change after i changed the line in polepos and the change in the in game settings for the gear change this time it had the Gear Shift/HI and no errors not sure if it works with shifter because i dont have it set up but well see. I also noticed that outrun and spyhunter had the in game Gear Shift/Hi already set without me changing any of those drivers. Doesanyone know if Mame 146u4 has these new settings for the Shifter built in already!

I found out that they made PC versions of Daytona USA, Daytona USA Deluxe and Manx TT Superbike today.

Daytona USA deluxe played well with my wheel, Daytona USA was reading my arcade stick but, not my wheel so, it may work for you guys that only use a wheel and manx tt did not play. Im getting another version of manx tt to see if that one will work. I want to throw that out there incase you guys have better luck with them in ur builds.

I found out that they made PC versions of Daytona USA, Daytona USA Deluxe and Manx TT Superbike today.

Daytona USA deluxe played well with my wheel, Daytona USA was reading my arcade stick but, not my wheel so, it may work for you guys that only use a wheel and manx tt did not play. Im getting another version of manx tt to see if that one will work. I want to throw that out there incase you guys have better luck with them in ur builds.

Enjoy

I've been messing around trying to install driving games from the Windows 95 to Windows 2000 era on my Win7 laptop.I was surprised how easily Daytona USA Deluxe and Sega Rally installed and worked. (IIRC, I ran the installer under win98 compatibility mode)The default video settings are pretty horrible, but if you crank everything up it has actually aged well except for the draw distance.It even worked with an xbox controller without doing any extra configuring.

I haven't been able to get Sega Rally 2 working.

When I get around to setting up a new computer for the driving cab, I plan to keep better records of exactly what steps were necessary to get each game working. I haven't played them with a wheel or played them enough to know whether they are worth the trouble, but Daytona USA Deluxe contains a pretty cool track not available in any other version, so that makes it at least worth checking out.

I found out that they made PC versions of Daytona USA, Daytona USA Deluxe and Manx TT Superbike today.

Daytona USA deluxe played well with my wheel, Daytona USA was reading my arcade stick but, not my wheel so, it may work for you guys that only use a wheel and manx tt did not play. Im getting another version of manx tt to see if that one will work. I want to throw that out there incase you guys have better luck with them in ur builds.

Enjoy

I've been messing around trying to install driving games from the Windows 95 to Windows 2000 era on my Win7 laptop.I was surprised how easily Daytona USA Deluxe and Sega Rally installed and worked. (IIRC, I ran the installer under win98 compatibility mode)The default video settings are pretty horrible, but if you crank everything up it has actually aged well except for the draw distance.It even worked with an xbox controller without doing any extra configuring.

I haven't been able to get Sega Rally 2 working.

When I get around to setting up a new computer for the driving cab, I plan to keep better records of exactly what steps were necessary to get each game working. I haven't played them with a wheel or played them enough to know whether they are worth the trouble, but Daytona USA Deluxe contains a pretty cool track not available in any other version, so that makes it at least worth checking out.

I feel your pain. I just installed Sega Rally 2 on my home PC and it played fine (win7 64bit) but it wont install on my cab PC. ARRRRG! I was excited after playing a few rounds on my home PC. I'll try again tommorow to see whats the issue.

I feel your pain. I just installed Sega Rally 2 on my home PC and it played fine (win7 64bit) but it wont install on my cab PC. ARRRRG! I was excited after playing a few rounds on my home PC. I'll try again tommorow to see whats the issue.

This came up on the Supermodel forums and the solution posted was to install a Demo of Sega Rally 2 that you can still find floating around the web and then copy the config file from the demo overtop the one in the regular install. I haven't tried it yet.

Can someone post their Crusin USA/World pedal set up? The game plays fine but it will not register the gas and brake pedal in the game itself. Mame sees the pedals and it even registers the gas/brake in service mode but, nothing happens in game. I tried all sorts of configuration for accel, accel inc and accel dec and nothing changed. im using mame64ui and a logitech wheel. Thanks.

Can someone post their Crusin USA/World pedal set up? The game plays fine but it will not register the gas and brake pedal in the game itself. Mame sees the pedals and it even registers the gas/brake in service mode but, nothing happens in game. I tried all sorts of configuration for accel, accel inc and accel dec and nothing changed. im using mame64ui and a logitech wheel. Thanks.

BTW California Speed play perfectly.

Thanks in advance

Make sure you always leave Pedal Inc and Pedal Dec blank!Try only mapping the gas. Sometimes the brake and gas fight each other if one is reversed (look for the brake lights).If it doesn't work then, try reversing the pedal in MAME under analog controls.Once you have the gas straitened out, move onto mapping the brake.

Success!! I got sega rally 2 running on my cab. It would not recognize my video card so, I download and installed sega rally 2 demo of the web and somehow that fixed the issue. I guess it added some missing files. The higher resolution files hack works too but, it doesnt recognize my wheel when I go to HD

Can someone post their Crusin USA/World pedal set up? The game plays fine but it will not register the gas and brake pedal in the game itself. Mame sees the pedals and it even registers the gas/brake in service mode but, nothing happens in game. I tried all sorts of configuration for accel, accel inc and accel dec and nothing changed. im using mame64ui and a logitech wheel. Thanks.

BTW California Speed play perfectly.

Thanks in advance

I had to invert the pedals in MAME so that MAME didnt think the pedal was to the floor when my foot was off of it, but Im using the logitech PS3 wheel.

This question is for Badmouth, because I have read some of you posts and you might know the answer to my dilemma. I just hacked a Driving Force Pro to 360 degrees, but when driving, sometimes is decalibrates, not always and that is where the rub is. I have to be gentle with the movements or it will go out of whack. I have improved my times, but that situation where it might decalibrate is always looming. Other than that it is great. My question is what causes that. Is it the cheap optical sensor?, or is it the mother board in the wheel?, or is it the PlayStation console. Remember the encoder wheel is now capable of turning 2.5 times faster than the original. If you know the answer or come cures, I would sure be willing to learn. Rbrown.

This question is for Badmouth, because I have read some of you posts and you might know the answer to my dilemma. I just hacked a Driving Force Pro to 360 degrees, but when driving, sometimes is decalibrates, not always and that is where the rub is. I have to be gentle with the movements or it will go out of whack. I have improved my times, but that situation where it might decalibrate is always looming. Other than that it is great. My question is what causes that. Is it the cheap optical sensor?, or is it the mother board in the wheel?, or is it the PlayStation console. Remember the encoder wheel is now capable of turning 2.5 times faster than the original. If you know the answer or come cures, I would sure be willing to learn. Rbrown.

Not familiar with that hack. Could you provide some details?

Does the calibration go out if you move it too fast?or if you move it too far?

I am now attempting to put together driving controls for my cab. I am not making a dedicated racing cabinet, as my living room real estate wont allow it. I read as much as I can about wheels, and found the SteelSeries SRW-S1 wheel, which was made for a game called SimRaceWay. Its an interesting wheel. Its handheld, with no base or pedals. There are two analog pedals on the underside of the wheel which can be triggered easily, similar to the Z button on a N64 controller. I figured it was compact enough to work for a standup arcade. I got it for 75 bucks on Amazon, it has a USB port, and it seems to work okay with Mame. I got most of the driving games set, but some spinner wheel type games like SuperSprint and OffRoad are still not working.

Question 1: Im confused on the Dial settings for Mame. The sensitivity and digital numbers, whats the ideal setting? Higher means what, as opposed to lower numbers? If anyone could elaborate.

Question 2: My computer sees the SRW-S1 wheel as a Analog Joystick. I cant seem to get it to work on Sega Model 2, because when I set the analog brake and throttle, I only have the option to set Steering or Brake, not acceleration. Thoughts?

Question 3: How do I hook up a analog wheel to Demul?

Question 4: Should I just return this wheel and get the Logitech g27? I'm looking for the easiest way to set up a wheel, and maybe this USB wheel is more trouble than its worth.

I got most of the driving games set, but some spinner wheel type games like SuperSprint and OffRoad are still not working.

Yup, for those games you need a wheel that shows up as a spinner and spins endlessly.You can get the games you mentioned working just well enough to play, but they'll never feel quite right.Other games like pole position are literally impossible to get working properly.

Question 1: Im confused on the Dial settings for Mame. The sensitivity and digital numbers, whats the ideal setting? Higher means what, as opposed to lower numbers? If anyone could elaborate.

This is covered in the first post of this thread. Settings that say "Digital" are for when key presses are substituted for analog controls. The only setting that has an effect on your analog controls is Sensetivity and Reverse. IIRC, I have the sensitivity set above 130 for most games. Every game is different and must be set up individually.

Question 2: My computer sees the SRW-S1 wheel as a Analog Joystick. I cant seem to get it to work on Sega Model 2, because when I set the analog brake and throttle, I only have the option to set Steering or Brake, not acceleration. Thoughts?

M2 emulator requires the pedals to be on separate axis. Yours is apparently on one axis. You should be able to map it to acceleration and use a button for the brake. You might be able to work around it by using a program called x360ce to create a virtual xbox controller and then selecting x-input in the m2 config file.

Question 4: Should I just return this wheel and get the Logitech g27? I'm looking for the easiest way to set up a wheel, and maybe this USB wheel is more trouble than its worth.

Up to you. The wheel you have takes up no space.Anything you get is going to have it's quirks. The G27 clutch pedal will wreak havoc while trying to map controls in Demul and some PC games unless you hold it exactly halfway down. The cheaper wheels without a clutch don't have that problem, but they don't have an H-shifter either and would require workarounds for that.

I've thought about getting that controller for the living room.It crams a lot of stuff into a small package.I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on how it performs. I think my arms would get tired.I wonder how different from a standard wheel it would feel if attached to a steering shaft with a centering spring?

I found a small camera tripod with a swivel head gobo that attaches to the back of the SRW quite easily. A little WD-40 and the wheel works much better than "air driving". Thanks so much for the information. I am going to test out as much as I can this weekend.

I've read about the x360 software, but has anyone successfully used xpadder with a wheel? I ask because I already have xpadder loading up with my Hyperspin.

Any of you nice people have any experince with Split/Second Velocity PC using a wheel?I have a G27 wheel and mapping it to the game is fairly easy but, when every thing is set up and i am good to go i notice that when ever i turn the wheel the acceleration is slowing down. imagine if you play any driving game using an analogue controller using only one analogue stick for gas, brake, left and right so pushing the stick up would make it accelerate and back for brake. This is what it feels like when ever i use my wheel. Using a gamepad or keybord works like it should. I have bin playing a little with x360ce but i could not get the game to recognise my wheel as an Xbox controller for some reason?Any help would be greatly appreciated since i really wanna add this game to my twin cab (work in Progress).

As of 153 the output code for outrun has been accepted, so various sega games from that era now have their "deluxe" motors hooked up, which equates to more than simple rumble.

I'm still working crazy hours, but a few weeks from now I should be able to take a day off work and dedicate some time to implementing some of this new stuff and updating this thread. Or preferably creating a dedicated and stickied MAMEhooker thread where lists of games with working outputs and script examples can be maintained. I want it to be an organized guide though with all the info in the first few posts, not buried in a hodgepodge of people chiming in with random tidbits and questions.

Hey guys, great thread!! I'm just getting into the build/conversion of my stand-up Sega Outrun cab I picked-up for $50.00 a few weeks back. This has been a great resource for me so far. I ended up buying the Ultimarc A-pac to interface my steering wheel and pedal pots and I'm not happy with it. I can't get it to work with Outrun 2 Coast to Coast PC version. Is the U-HID a better choice? There isn't much information out there about it as far as I can find. I don't mind spending the money on it if its good.

My so far has had all the original guts removed, I cut about 10" or so of depth off the back of the cab, installed a 24" LCD and a pretty decent computer (i7-4770 Haswel proc, 8GB RAM, and GTX 560-TI 1GB card. Windows 7 x64. I have a thread going at vpforums in the Mame section but plan to make a build thread here as well.

Hey guys, great thread!! I'm just getting into the build/conversion of my stand-up Sega Outrun cab I picked-up for $50.00 a few weeks back. This has been a great resource for me so far. I ended up buying the Ultimarc A-pac to interface my steering wheel and pedal pots and I'm not happy with it. I can't get it to work with Outrun 2 Coast to Coast PC version. Is the U-HID a better choice? There isn't much information out there about it as far as I can find. I don't mind spending the money on it if its good.

Outrun Coast to Coast can be annoying to set up, but the APAC should work.The big thing I remember is that at some point it asks you to press either enter or confirm, but it wants you to press a different button than you've used in every other screen. Search the forum. There might be a better explanation somewhere.

Also, a lot of the old PC games prefer the pedals to both be on the same axis. This is why the menus will scroll without you touching the controls in some games. If the pedals are combined, it doesn't. There is a way to wire the pedal potentiometers to one input to accomplish this, but I don't have a diagram handy.

Well you are pretty spot on because when I first tried to set it up (Outrun C2C), I had the auto scrolling going on. I did change the wiring on the A-pac so the steering wheel was on the "first" A-pac controller, then the two pedals are X and Y on the "Second" A-pac controller. That stopped the scrolling but when I went to setup the controls, I can select steering wheel then move the wheel and it sees the axis but there is no way to confirm. I had to alt-F4 out of the game. I figured it was something buggy with the A-pac. I'll search the forums more for that. Thanks for the tip

Well you are pretty spot on because when I first tried to set it up (Outrun C2C), I had the auto scrolling going on. I did change the wiring on the A-pac so the steering wheel was on the "first" A-pac controller, then the two pedals are X and Y on the "Second" A-pac controller. That stopped the scrolling but when I went to setup the controls, I can select steering wheel then move the wheel and it sees the axis but there is no way to confirm. I had to alt-F4 out of the game. I figured it was something buggy with the A-pac. I'll search the forums more for that. Thanks for the tip

You just have to find the right button to confirm. It's a different one than the button that is used for confirm in every other menu.I think it might be called select instead. IIRC it was the right paddle shifter for me. I'm not sure which button that would be on the ipac, but they're both direct input devices, so it should work the same.

Having them show up as separate controllers is probably going to be an issue on some older games.

What sucks is that having combined pedals doesn't work on Model 2 emulator which is THE emulator to have in a driving cab.You could probably work around it using x360ce and enabling xinput in emulator.ini since you don't have force feedback anyway.Actually it's still possible to have rumble, which might work out with an Outrun wheel.

Hi and thanks for all the information you provide here. I'm about to finish to restore a upright Final Lap cabinet that was in really bad shape. I've rebuilt it to a general cab and fitted separate brake and accelerator, sequence shifter, start button and four "view" buttons. One of my all time favorites are Outrun., but I've got problems with the pedal setup for this one in MAME. When I setup the pedals as analogue, Outrun seems to recognize the Pedal as half way pressed, when it's not pressed. So the car will always accelerate about 50% of max, without stepping on it. Do you have any idea?

Hi and thanks for all the information you provide here. I'm about to finish to restore a upright Final Lap cabinet that was in really bad shape. I've rebuilt it to a general cab and fitted separate brake and accelerator, sequence shifter, start button and four "view" buttons. One of my all time favorites are Outrun., but I've got problems with the pedal setup for this one in MAME. When I setup the pedals as analogue, Outrun seems to recognize the Pedal as half way pressed, when it's not pressed. So the car will always accelerate about 50% of max, without stepping on it. Do you have any idea?

What type of pedals or interface are you using?

Sounds like a combined/separate axis pedal issueor just not having the game calibrated in the service menu of the game.

I have "standard" 5k pot pedals on separate axis. I use A-pac. Is there an in-game calibration within Outrun in MAME?

In nearly all the driving games in MAME, you will need to enter the service menu to calibrate the controls.For most games it's just a matter of pressing the service button (default in MAME is F2) and then figuring out how the original controls were used to navigate the menu (varies by game)

On some older games, there a DIP switch would need to be flipped before turning on the game. In the MAME menu, there is a DIP switch settings section. Flip the switch in there, restart the game, make your adjustments, then flip the switch back off so next time the game starts it doesn't go into service mode again.

I can't get Outrun to work right with the pedals, the values from the pedals seems fine in the in-game "service" menu though. I've now set Outrun to use the pedals as digital, that works fine. I think it's hard to notice when playing that the pedals are set as digital, so I'm pleased with that for now. I also tested Spy Hunter in MAME, it seems to work well. In M2 emulator I've tested Sega Championship Rally and Indianapolis 500, both worked perfectly with analogue steering and pedals.

There are also settings within the mame menu itself... analog settings. You have to set them while the game is unpaused and yes, you have to do it individiually for every single game that's giving your trouble.

Thanks for help. Outrun would simply not work with analogue, even when setup up just one single pedal. But digital is OK for now.

It will work. See the notes about setting up analog controls in MAME at the beginning of this thread.The most common mistakes are having the controls mapped to both the Axis and INC/DEC or needing to invert the pedals.

Steering: mapped to Controller 1 - x-axisAccel: mapped to Controller 1 - y-axisBreak: mapped to Controller 2 - y-axisI have tested invert of course. The problems seems to be that Outrun thinks the Accel is half way down (in the center), when not pressed.

The mapping doesn't work that way. Because pedals and brakes are half axis, you map half of the axis to the game. Aka in mame's settings Accel should be mapped to Y axis + and Brake should be Y Axis - If it's just showing x axis or y axis without a "+" or "-" then the full axis is mapped and that's your problem. Do it in-game via the pedals themselves.

Just setting up My G27 with Model 2 and Super Model Emulators (not that I can get FFB in super model to work )...... In "Global Device Settings" (Logitech profiler), I've set "overall strength effects" to 150% and for games like Daytona and Indy 500, its perfect, but when I play Sega Rally, at start up the wheel is constantly shaking. In the game Over Rev, in the turns, the wheel has a light judder.

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

Is there any way that I can play Pole Position with this wheel?

No. Pole position was designed to have a wheel that spins endlessly with no specific center point.Personally I'd like to see the MAME Devs hack it or someone to release an alternative build of MAME hacked to make it playable with limited rotation wheels.

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

Is there any way that I can play Pole Position with this wheel?

No. Pole position was designed to have a wheel that spins endlessly with no specific center point.Personally I'd like to see the MAME Devs hack it or someone to release an alternative build of MAME hacked to make it playable with limited rotation wheels.

Just a quick post....I recently hacked an old PC steering wheel with an optical mouse. The wheel now spins infinitely and allows me to play all 360 type games as they were intended. Plus the latest mice are wireless. I removed the mouse pcb and fixed it near to the steering wheel mount. I placed a circular disc on the wheel shaft and as this turns it tricks the mouse into thinking it's moving on the y axis. Works very well and I found a program that allows automatically speed changes per mouse when you move it. That way you can control its sensitivity.

Anyone want to chip in their 2 cents about how I can improve the guide in the first few posts of this thread?

I think it's too information dense and some of it may not be necessary.I'm thinking about just deleting the PC games section, or limiting it to a link to configuring Crazy Taxi and a link to Howards Outrun FXT thread.

Also thinking about deleting the history of driving games videos. I feel like the thread starts going off the tracks at the PC games (which are outdated) and runs all the way off them at the video.I think the stuff below there about cab dimensions and hacking original controls is more important IMO.

Is the stuff about hacking original controls understandable?I don't think noobs follow it very well.

EDIT: Never mind. Made some changes. Moved the videos to the end. I'm much happier with it now.

Man you are right. Once you sticky something it totally gets ignored... by me at least.

Looks great, a lot more organized. My only suggestion would be to change the cannonball link to http://reassembler.blogspot.com/ instead of GitHub. The reason being is that will give people access to the layout editor and the site has other useful stuff on it including the best outrun restoration I've ever seen in my entire life.

Hello all, Need help with Supermodel and Model 2. I currently have a Converted dead Pole Position cabinet into a mame racing cabinet. most games working great thus far, just not with Supermodel or Model 2. I cannot for the life of me get the wheel and gas pedal to work together. currently Wheel is set to Mouse Xaxis, Steering Left=Xaxis-Neg, and Steering Right =Xaxis Pos, the Gas pedal I have tried I think every option possible. currently Joy1 Axis6. It works fine in Mame and set as P1 Pedal 1 Analog= Joy 1 Z axis. I tried this setting with no luck either. please advise. I've spent over 15 hours just on the control settings with no luck, im banging my head on the wall.

I have "standard" 5k pot pedals on separate axis. I use A-pac. Is there an in-game calibration within Outrun in MAME?

In nearly all the driving games in MAME, you will need to enter the service menu to calibrate the controls.For most games it's just a matter of pressing the service button (default in MAME is F2) and then figuring out how the original controls were used to navigate the menu (varies by game)

Hello, I'm trying to set up a Driving Force GT in mame w/Crusin USA. I've installed all the latest drivers and tried mapping out the controls in mame, but the brake and accel are not working. I've checked and they are not combined as 1 device and they show up correctly when I input them into the in game controller config. Any help would be appreciated.

Bkenobi......I don't know how you came up with such an orgasmically phenomenal list but man, you sure brought home the bacon with this one! Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- what a fantastic list of racing games! I only have so much time in the day so can't add every game to my steam library but I at least intend to add the mame ones you've listed. Thanks for this outrageously kickass compilation of racers all in one post! This thread definitely needs to be stickied!!!!!!!!

Bkenobi......I don't know how you came up with such an orgasmically phenomenal list but man, you sure brought home the bacon with this one! Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- what a fantastic list of racing games! I only have so much time in the day so can't add every game to my steam library but I at least intend to add the mame ones you've listed. Thanks for this outrageously kickass compilation of racers all in one post! This thread definitely needs to be stickied!!!!!!!!