What's in a powder? As in TiteWad

This is a discussion on What's in a powder? As in TiteWad within the Reloading forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; I have been researching the forum and internet and find very little data on Hodgon TiteWad.
It appears to be for 12 ga with light ...

I picked it up for shotgun reloads and noted it appears close to Red Dot which got me to thinking about other possibilities. I cannot find much information about it other than the Hodgen load data and I don't have inclination to experiment without a benchmark to start at.

Hodgdon Longshot is what I use to reload 9mm. It's also a dual purpose shotgun powder too. If you can't find any published data using TiteWad for 9mm I wouldn't use it.

Some powders can exhibit unpredictable pressure spikes. Those are usually never used to reload handgun ammo for that reason. They are only safe in shotguns. I don't know if that's the case with TiteWad, but it could be.

I use TiteWad with cast lead in 45acp and it works fine but it's not the optimal powder. I keep the loads low (3-4 grains) since it pressure spikes early.

I think they've chosen NOT to give pistol data for it because it gets high pressures at normal velocities. In other words it's not efficient. While one powder would have reasonable/safe pressure at 800 fps in 45ACP the same pressure with TiteWad may only get you 500-600 fps as an example. I'm guessing because it's too hot/fast. If you crank up the load to get into the 800 fps range you may no longer be in the safe pressure zone. I'm shooting target and not super worried about max velocity so I just load until it recoils my action as I like it to and stop there. Too little powder can also create a squib that doesn't leave the barrel then the next round will Kaboom if you're not paying attention so you can go too low on charge as well. I've also heard of low charges creating huge rapid pressure spikes but this is mostly with slower powders as far as I'm aware. This is why you don't load a .223 with say a half charge. This wouldn't be safe.

Off topic: On low charge Kabooms... in the use of half charged cases it seems like a lot of the things I've read say to use cornstarch or another filler to make sure the case is filled to where it needs to be and the powder is tight and not leaving too much air space.

Back on Topic: The other thing I've noticed about TiteWad is that it's a little dirty. I'd like to compare TiteGROUP and see how that does. I've heard it's a very good cast lead powder.

But it works for me and in 45ACP. I would not use it for anything high velocity and I'm not sure I'd use it in 9mm (although I'd probably try it and see starting low). Of course with all reloading it's your own risk and even following recipes isn't a guaranty that you're safe.

If you don't have the powder, I wouldn't buy it unless it's all can get and you don't mind experimenting.

It can't be much more spiky in pressure than N310, Clays, or TiteGroup.
There is no pistol data because they won't spend money to develop loads when they already have pistol powders in that same burn rate. Likewise, they aren't going to spend money to develop shotgun loads for their pistol powders as they already have powders in that burn rate.
TiteWad is right between N310 and Bullseye. Great place for a .45 Auto and light target .38 Special. Not a place I look for powder for other cartridges, except .32 S&W Long WadCutter ammo.

For pistols, the powder that produces the most velocity at 6-8" also produces the most velocity at 1.5-2". Some people move to faster powder as they fear an unburned kernel falling under the cylinder star or they don't want the muzzle flash.
For light .38 Special target loads (wadcutters), accuracy is usually best at around 750fps, so very fast powders are used.
For a .357 Mag rifle, H110/296 is still probably your best bet for max velocity. Don't know if the case can hold enough of a slower powder to do any good.
Personally, I would still stick to 2400 and 4227.
PS: if you were going for a 9mm Minor load, TiteWad could be good; but there are many other powders that have known loading data--if you can find the powder.

Dirty is:
1) not important if accuracy is good
and
2) it reduced if pressures are raised.
Shooting is dirty--that's why people clean their guns.
Reducing your lube will prevent the formation of "mud."
I have actually fired other's guns and gotten oil on my shooting glasses.