I'm getting the new Olympus OM-D e-m5 and am planning on the Nauticam housing for it. As for flash units, which do you think is better suited to this camera/housing combo?

I've chosen to take one of each with me on my next trip. I'll let you know what I think in around two weeks!

I buy my own photographic kit. Diving equipment manufacturers and diving services suppliers get even-handed treatment from me whether they choose to advertise in the publications I write for or not. All the equipment I get on loan is returned as soon as it is finished with.Did you know you can now get Diver Mag as an iPad/Android app?

Sort of stronger. If you look at comparable beam geometries, I think they are the same. Naked without diffusers, the D1 is stronger but narrower. If you put the diffuser on the D1 to get the same beam spread as the Z240 without its diffusers they are pretty much the same. If you put the stronger diffuser on the D1 and the diffuser on the Z240 they are the same again. That being said, the D1 is about $100 cheaper than the Z240 so that may make your decision for you.Bill

The YS-D1 looks slightly less flexible in TTL-emulation than the Inon Z-240, but the differences are small. My guess is that there isn't much to choose between them if the YS-D1 proves as reliable and tough as the tried-and-tested Z-240.

It might be interesting to compare the sensitivity of the slave sensors in various conditions.

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

S.

One issue with S&S (at least historically) is that the slave sensor sensitivity is very low. I am using a micro-led strobe emulator on my 7D. It triggers perfectly reliably all of my Inon strobes (s2000, d2000, z240) but mostly it requires tremendous fiddling to get it to fire the YS01, the Athena ring (ys01 hardware) or the 110a. I haven't yet gotten a D1 but if it uses the same sensor as the 110a then this MIGHT be an issue for some folks.Bill

Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.

S.

There are more stops of variable power in TTL emulation with the Inon Z-240. Inon's slave function has, in the past, been more reliable than Sea&Sea's.

The big question for me is which is the most reliable strobe. I've now had a total of six YS110's of which four have died on me and been beyond economic repair. This can't just be bad luck! I'm left with two working ones but feel I really need to carry a spare. It's nice to see that they have been discontinued in favour of a new model, the YSD1. I prefer the look of these compared to the Inons and the tighter beam angle would suit me better - but are they more reliable? Are there any Inon users prepared to own up to strobe failure?

I have 7 Inon strobes. One had to be repaired because of a leak (or dumb user error) into the cap that sealed the sync connector. The leak eventually dissolved the pins and got into the main body of the strobe. Cost $250 or so to get fixed. Other than that they have been quite reliable. I think though that the YS110 (not the alpha) was a bad luck device from day 1 with extremely variable TTL results and it just was not a robust design. I have had no issues with my 01 or 110a.
Bill

I have had five Inon strobes, three z-240's and two z-220's that are still in service after more than twenty years without ever having been serviced. I have had no problems with any of the strobes and would be hard pressed to find a reason to want to change.

i have both Sea and Sea and inons and have not had an issue with any of them however the inons seem more robust. My 220 is now 6 years old and going strong (touch wood). i have even flooded it and it is still working Ilike the look of the D1s with all that power in a small package but i think i will wait to see how such a small body handles the heat build up over multiple strobe bursts - anyone have opnions yet? do you have to use eneloops with the D1 or normal rechargeables are ok?

Hi Guys,
I am looking to buy a couple of strobes(a toss up between the D1 and Z240) so when I saw this I thought great, but still not sure.
I seem to be getting the idea that it may be better to stick to the tried and tested Z240??
I have just upgraded to an Olympus EPM1... I?s the difference between the two going to matter to the quality of my pics

Just got back from a tough trip to Malpelo with both. The YS-D1 is undeniably brighter. I had to tape the diffuser on to stop it coming adrift under water. I have several 240Z but the tubes of the older ones are going black. I was told by the UK importer it was because I was repeat flashing!!! The tube of the YS-DI is much bigger than that of the 240Z. Otherwise, I have had no complaints with either.

I buy my own photographic kit. Diving equipment manufacturers and diving services suppliers get even-handed treatment from me whether they choose to advertise in the publications I write for or not. All the equipment I get on loan is returned as soon as it is finished with.Did you know you can now get Diver Mag as an iPad/Android app?

I have three Z-240s. Two type II's and one type III. One of my type II died in Raja Ampat in the beginning of this year after 6 years of functioning perfectly. The circuit board was replaced and now it's a type IV (with LED!), with the original optical sensor of the type II. It costed me € 340,-.
Recently i discovered that the output of the renovated strobe was much stronger then the type III strobe. The type III strobe tubes were going black, just like John's. It is getting a new circuit board right now. The last type II strobe i still use and it is still stronger then the Type III, but not as good as the renovated strobe. Once my Type III is renovated and back i may send my old type II strobe for repair, or just get a S-2000 as off camera strobe (just little more expensive then a new circuit board)

I think that all strobes tubes go black/grey after a while, resulting in less performance, which is not a specific INON problem IMO. But maybe there are other wetpixelers who'd like to comment on this.

I bought two -D1s in May. I've already had to deal with two replacements. First, one of the units I got in May developed a short and was replaced. Then after a couple weeks, the replacement unit would start flashing red/green on a fresh pair of batteries, so that's been replaced. Now the other unit I got in May flooded in the battery compartment at the beginning of the this month, even though the battery cap and o-ring were in perfect condition, the o-ting was perfectly clean and lubed properly, and the cap sealed correctly. Sea&Sea says they won't cover it under warranty and are basically blaming me for the flooding and want to charge me for the repair. While I have it insured and any cost will be covered, I'm not pleased with their dismissive attitude, especially since I've had to deal with 2 defective units already and quite frankly, they should be the party proving to me their products are more reliable than what I've seen so far.

I bought two -D1s in May. I've already had to deal with two replacements. First, one of the units I got in May developed a short and was replaced. Then after a couple weeks, the replacement unit would start flashing red/green on a fresh pair of batteries, so that's been replaced. Now the other unit I got in May flooded in the battery compartment at the beginning of the this month, even though the battery cap and o-ring were in perfect condition, the o-ting was perfectly clean and lubed properly, and the cap sealed correctly. Sea&Sea says they won't cover it under warranty and are basically blaming me for the flooding and want to charge me for the repair. While I have it insured and any cost will be covered, I'm not pleased with their dismissive attitude, especially since I've had to deal with 2 defective units already and quite frankly, they should be the party proving to me their products are more reliable than what I've seen so far.

Same issues here with the YS-D1's. I'll jump in and have one or both strobes start flashing red/green with fresh batteries, and it's completely random as to when it happens. Sometimes I can get a whole dive, maybe even two, with no problems. Have to start the replacement process, but unfortunately I'm locked in for Lembeh and Ambon over the next two weeks with strobes that are completely haywire.

Have you experienced the problem in all strobe operating modes - manual, manual for pre-flash, and TTL?

I took my two, new D1s to Cozumel for three weeks of intensive diving. One of the two units functioned property, the other had issues. Like Damselfish (above), the "bad" strobe would work before a dive with freshly charged batteries, but would sometimes start flashing red/green or green/green for no reason. The same "bad" strobe would also not fire in TTL when used with the "good" strobe; if I covered the "good" strobe I could get the "bad" one to fire...very strange. As soon as I returned to the States, I took the questionable strobe back to the store where I bought it and they sent it back to Sea and Sea for R/R. It's been two weeks...

I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.