0.1 Scale Modeling in Paper

Card Modeling or Paper Modeling is the art of creating
scale models with paper. Models are built up from appropriately colored, cut,
and folded pieces of paper, usually a stiff cardstock. Many models are
available as kits, with pre-printed pieces to be cut out and assembled by
the modeler. It's also possible to build entirely from scratch.

Anything can be modeled in paper, but the most common subjects are
buildings and vehicles. Buildings are a very popular subject and well
suited to the medium. Kits are available of many famous buildings and
castles. There are also many kits available in common model railroad
scales, suitable for inclusion in a railroad layout. Aircraft and ships
(both civil and military) are also popular.

Paper models can be surprisingly sturdy, and can stand up to handling
well. They derive their strength from their structure; even seemingly
flimsy paper can be strong when it's shaped properly.

The basic elements of a card model are cylinders or cones. The
cylinders can be square or rectangular in section, as buildings usually are,
or they can be round or oval, as in an aircraft fuselage. They can
even be polygonal--a castle tower may have five or more sides. Cylinders
can be tapered, and a cylinder which tapers to a point is a cone. Again,
the cones can be square (like pyramids) or round in section.

Most paper models are built up from these simple elements. Once
you've mastered the basic skills, more complicated shapes can
be formed from these basic ones. Shapes involving compound curves,
such as a ship's hull, are built by forming an appropriately shaped
paper skin over a framework (much as a real ship is constructed.)

The basic operation of paper modeling are

cutting, with scissors or a knife,

scoring and folding,

bending, and

gluing.

If you can use scissors, you can build a paper model.

Only a few simple tools are necessary for constructing card models.
A complete set of tools can easily fit into a cigar box. Only a small space
is required for construction, or for storage of unbuilt models. This
makes it an ideal hobby for people with small homes, or students in dorm
rooms. It's easy to pack all the necessary tools and several kits into
a small case, so you can easily travel with your hobby.

The hobby is also economical. Kits are inexpensive, and no specialized
or expensive tools are needed. An entire village of HO scale buildings
can be had for less than $10. Of course, some kits are expensive, but even
the most expensive are much cheaper than a plastic model of comparable
complexity.

Card modeling is distinct from, but related to origami, the craft
of folding paper. There are numerous Internet resources on origami--it's
beyond the scope of this FAQ to list them. However, if you're interested
in origami, a good place to start is
Joseph Wu's Origami Page.
You may also wish to consult the appendix, Related
Arts.

0.2 Historical Notes

Paper has been used in modeling since its invention thousands of
years ago, but those ancient modelers probably did not use paper for the
construction of entire paper models. The roots of the modern paper
model go back to 15th century Europe, where the printing technology and
the paper came together. These first models were very simple rectangular
pictures, to be cut out and glued to wooden blocks as toys or educational
aids. At first, religious themes predominated, but over the next several
centuries, they evolved to cover a broader set of topics.

Printing technology took a step forward in 1796, with the invention
of lithography, which allowed the production of clear images for large
press runs. The paper models were developing too. The rectangular cutouts
began to follow the outline of the figures, and a folded strip was added
at the base to allow the figure to stand on its own. Then extra pieces
were added, to be glued to the face of the figure to give a three dimensional
effect. By the late nineteenth century, the models were fully three
dimensional. The JF Schreiber company of Esslingen, Germany began publishing
paper models in 1831 and is still publishing today.

Paper modeling as a hobby had a heyday in the late nineteenth and
early twentieth century, but in the 1920's began to wane in popularity,
as competition came from mass produced wooden model kits and metal toys.
In the 1940's, wartime shortages of wood, metal, and labor produced a
resurgence of interest in paper models.

In the 1950's, in the US and Western Europe, the competition from
plastic models gradually crowded out the paper ones. Some companies, such as JF
Schreiber and Wilhelmshaven in Germany, continued to produce high quality
kits, but the medium couldn't match plastic's popularity. Simple,
`tab-and-slot' models were also produced for use as promotional gimmicks.

In Eastern Europe, were polystyrene was less ubiquitous, paper
models continued to be popular, and a great variety were and still are produced.

However, even in the West, some modelers continued to be attracted
by the medium of paper, and the growing international commerce of the
1980's has led to a rising popularity. It's now possible to get paper
models from all over the world.

from Bob Santos <SantMin@aol.com>: Growing up
during WWII we did a lot of paper modeling because most other model
materials were in short supply. Wish I could find some of those now.
I have all the repro penny flyers but I remember a Jack Armstrong
model that assembled into a nice little Piper Cub that was suspended
inside a box that looked like a TV (we had no TV back then). All was
connected with strings to a set of aircraft controls (stick and rudder
pedals) and whatever you did with the controls moved the strings to
make the little airplane assume the proper position. GREAT.

Another was a B-17 that was based on a paper tube with a
little mirror in the nose making it a little periscope. You looked
in through the tail and saw cross-hairs looking down so you could
drop marbles on paper targets.

Does anyone remember the giant paper circus that started with
models printed on Kool-Aid packets? How about the books that made
3-d working models of all the popular comic strips of the time (I
think that set was late 40's or early 50's)? I often wonder what
happened to all those plates.

from Beppi <beppi@fachschaften.tu-muenchen.de>:
King of all paper model designers for me is the
Czech old-hand (over 30 years in this business with thousands of
models!) Richard Vyskovsky. It's unforgiveable that he's not mentioned
on your page! [He is now!] The difficulty and perfectionism of
his kits are
unsurpassed and he modeled virtually every castle and other old
building in Czechoslovakia as well as a lot of modern or foreign ones,
most in model-railway sizes. He also did noteworthy planes, cars,
trains etc. and his wife Anna does folklore puppets.
The Prague castle
(115cm x 60cm complex with single buildings of 1-4cm) took us about 3
months to build and we afterwards earned many puzzled looks from the
tourist hordes when we walked through the real thing exclaiming "Look,
the window which gave us so much headache to build", "There's the big
gap where you didn't cut out properly" or "This chimney shouldn't be
here, Richard cheated us!"

One problem with his legacy is its unavailability. Most of his models
appeared as attachments to the fortnightly editions of "ABC", a Czech
youth magazine (which also carried kits from other designers), from
1962 until today (We have a 10cm stack of this attachments at home),
but have never been published elsewhere or with explanations in other
than Czech language. Another problem is the socialist (that is: bad)
quality of paper and print. A few of the more well-known kits have
been published separately and in better quality by Albatros, Prague,
but their approach to marketing is also rather socialist. Some are
available (at high prices) from a small company in Munich (Germany),
which sells a very large range of paper models from all over the world
at flea markets and fairs. They sometimes, reluctantly, do mail
ordering as well.
Richard is still designing (although he must be quite old by now), for
example a whole line of classical Greek and Roman buildings came out
in "ABC" just a year ago.

from Chip Fyn <chipfyn@quest.net>:
That nostalgia stuff hit a nerve with me. A few years ago, I
realized that I've always been a paper modeler and that it's roots
must have been the addiction I had for the Lone Ranger Town that
had bits printed on the back of Cherios boxes and that then you had
to send a box top and a quarter to get the layout and a bunch more
cutout and glue up buildings. Then when the radio program came on
every Wednesday, you could follow the action with your layout.
(Hmmmm. The first virtual media experience?!) This was back in
1948 or so.

from Jack Graham <jgraham@nisc.net>:
Ah yes! The Lone Ranger Towns and Maps! More like 1947.
I wonder if we could get reprints from General Mills? I think it
was a box top and a dime not a quarter. I was only able to get one
set and longed for the remainder. My favorite "send in" was during
WWII and it was a map, buildings, army vehicles, and a bomber plane.
Here's how it worked. The bomber had marble "bombs" on a turret.
The "bomb sight" was a mirror viewed at an angle from the tail of
the plane. The mirror being located inside the plane tilted at an
angle. The map on the floor was seen through this mirror and a
marble was released to bomb a building or vehicle. Man what I
would give for one of those again! Anyone remember Build-A-Set
brand tab and slot paper models? I wonder if those could be resurrected.

from David Kemnitzer <DKemnitzer@eypae.com>:
I have a nearly complete set of buildings that were part of the
Nabisco Shredded Wheat Toytown and the Toytown Carnival. These came
printed on the dividers which were in each box of cereal. Like all
premiums I think certain models must have been harder to get (probably
the entire production run was sent to another part of the country.)

from Roy Miller <miller@csd.com>:
It's nice to know that someone else out there has a nice case of
nostalgia for the old paper stuff of W.W.II. The Bomber plane mentioned
had to be one of the best Radio serial offers ever presented. I would
love to find one or get it re-issued somehow. The airplane was actually
a model of a B-29 and was offered as a premium for the Hop Harrigan Radio
serial, I believe by Kellogg's. There is a nice photo of the shipping
envelope in the delightful book "Toys of World War II" if you can find
a copy. This book is a good source for information on many of the paper
models of the time including Build-A-Set and the Color Graphics "Young
Patriots" sets. These were made of heavy cardboard and could survive
the rough usage by an eight year old boy. I am fortunate enough to have
several examples of the W.W.II stuff including a Build-A Set Military set
and the Lionel Paper Train set (which included die cut flanged wheels
and track!). A replica kit of the latter can be obtained from PMI minus
the wheels and wooden axles. It is not die cut and the cutting lines are
difficult to see, but it can be built and, from a distance looks like
a real Lionel train.

I agree with Jack, it would be great if some of these could be
resurrected. I remember the Build-A-Sets and Color Graphics sets
particularly. The higher cost sets ($1.00) included many working
gimmicks such as guns that shot projectiles and targets that exploded
when hit.

Panzerdeisel has a section
on Scale Modeling in
WWII (in German and
English) which
shows German children and servicemen building models, at least some of
which are paper models. A model of the era is also shown.

If you get in the habit of looking, you can find often card models in local
hobby shops and bookstores. A lot of the Dover line of buildings are in HO
scale, and hobby shops catering to the model train crowd often have them.
Large bookstores often have the Dover and Usborne lines. Major sources are
listed below; for a variety of more obscure or uncertain sources, see
the appendix More Sources for Card Models .
Non-mail order sources in various countries are also listed there.

The following listings are order by continent and country, in
no particular order. Despite the fact that sources are grouped by country,
don't look at only one category. Many of the sources listed here will
ship to internationally.

North America

US Sources

The most complete source for card models in the USA is
Paper Models
International in Oregon. They import the Wilhelmshaven, JSC, Geli,
ModelCard, and JF Schreiber lines from Europe, also Dover, Usborne,
Micromodels, &c. They also have their own line of aircraft. Their
1999/2000 catalog
is 56 pages and includes buildings, ships, planes, trains, cars,
and other things.
They'll ship outside the US, too, so they really deserve their name.
You can get a catalog for 4 first class stamps, or 4 IRCs outside the USA.
They have a web site with catalog updates, some specials and closeouts,
and various odds and ends. Follow the link from their home page or
click here. PMI also
publishes a selection of
reprints of some out-of-print
models.

H&B Precision Card Models carries the Wilhelmshaven, HMV, cfm, JF Scheiber,
and papmobil models from Germany, the LJ line and the BC line from Australia,
the LS line from Holland, Alcan from Spain, JSC and FlyModel from Poland, and
Promotion Models from the USA.
LJ makes HO & N scale buildings and a couple
of steamboats. The LS line is an eclectic mix of planes, buildings, ships,
birds, and old-time autos.
FlyModel publishes airplanes and naval vessels; the supply of these can
be a little erratic.
cfm publishes about 15 ships and aircraft, including some reprints from
the now-defunct Kranich line of the former East Germany.
Promotion Models are a line of small civil aircraft.
H&B also publishes the American edition
of Möwe, the newsletter of the Friends of Wilhelmshaven Models. Subscribers
receive a 10% discount on all models ordered, so a subscription easily
pays for itself.

from Peter Heesch <106022.2701@compuserve.com>: `I presently
carry the Wilhelmshaven line, the LJ Models
(mainly buildings in HO and N scale for railroad buffs) from Australia and
the American Promotion Models (a line of approximately fourteen 4 to 6
inch wing span plane models which retail for $2.00 each). I also publish a
quarterly newsletter titled The Möwe for the Friends of Wilhelmshaven
Models. The annual subscription rate is $15.00 and enables subscribers to
purchase models from me at a 10 percent discount. We are still
experimenting with the format of our catalog. The 1997 edition is
bi-lingual, 54 pages with 6 color photographs and includes all the models
of the Wilhelmshaven and LJ lines.'

The Paper Soldier's main catalog is $5.00, but if you order from it,
then you get it and the supplements forever, or until you stop ordering.
The supplements have mostly one of a kind models, and you have to be
fast ordering.

The Paper Soldier 518-371-9202
8 McIntosh Lane
Clifton Park, NY 12065

The Village Hobby Shop carries ships from the Wilhelmshaven, Modelcard,
JSC, and Scheuer & Strüver lines, and a few others. They prefer
credit cards for mail order.

Dover publishes a line of architectural models, mostly in HO scale, and
a few others, such as a train, a Mayflower, and a Santa Maria. They also
have a line of simple models called "Easy to make..." which go together
very quickly and are nice for children. Available from
bookstores or directly from Dover.

Dover Publications, Inc.
31 East 2nd Street
Mineola, NY 11501

Note: Canadians wishing to order from Dover will be referred to their
Canadian distributor, Irwin Publishing, telephone 1-800-263-7824 or
1-416-445-3333, fax 1-416-798-1384.

Robert Kaelin has a modest line of aircraft models. He is planning on
designing more and is also considering doing some Pennsylvania RR cabooses,
so let him know if the RR stuff is on your wish list. He has a generous
part replacement policy; if you screw up a part, he'll replace it for an
SASE.

from Robert Kaelin: `1:24 scale detailed models of classic
American light planes from the 1930s and 1940s in addition to two
military training biplanes of that era (Focke-Wulf Stieglitz of Germany
and US Army Stearman PT-17). Printed on colored card stock. Each
with full instructions including sketches of subassembly details in
addition to three-views of completed model. Prices range from $7 to $12
postpaid first class. NY State residents must add applicable local sales
tax.'

Jerry Haines
publishes the Authentic Flying Models line
of detailed, colorful, die cut, WWII fighter aircraft in approximately
1/40 scale. These are flying (or rather, gliding) models.
He now has 8 models in his line.

Space Craft International publishes models of space craft such as Voyager
and the Hubble Telescope. The models are laser cut, which allows for
extraordinary intricacy and detail in parts like struts and antenna
booms.

Bellerophon Books
publishes a range of "art books for children of all ages,"
including some paper models. My catalog lists English Castles, Castles
of Scotland, Viking Ships, Old Cars (featuring a Stanley Steamer), Great Trains,
several books of airplanes, totem poles, California missions, and helmets.
They also have many coloring books and paper soldier books. The books are
priced from $2.50 to $7. Send a long SASE for a catalog.

Geoblox publishes a line of geological
card models. The models are intended as teaching aids, demonstrations, or
classroom projects, and are supplied as books of patterns, to be copied onto
card. The line presently includes five books comprising 98 models on
geological and paleontological subjects. A sample model, demonstrating
paleomagnetic banding, is available at their web site. They accept checks
and purchase orders only, but will ship internationally.

Linea Forma is a graphic and
industrial design firm that has recently branched into paper models. They
presently offer a single
model, a set of 3 San Francisco Victorian houses in HO scale. More
models are planned.

From Garry Sarver <dersar@wci.ab.ca>:
My business is located in Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada. I do take mail
orders and ship a lot outside of Canada. I even ship to Europe. I carry
most of the common names: Schreiber, Usborne, Dover, Fly Model, GPM, JSC,
Pierres de Papier, Wilhelmshaven, Bellerophone and some old Maly models.
I am still working on the net catologue and only have about 3/4 of the
stuff in it.

Europe

Great Britain

Marcle Models
1999/2000 catalog is £3 in the UK, overseas £4 surface mail,
£5 airmail.
They accept Visa and Mastercard (easiest for overseas orders) and send a
four page newsletter, Cutting Remarks, quarterly. The catalogue
and the latest
issue of Cutting Remarks are also available on their website.
Marcle carries models from a broad range
of sources and they will ship worldwide. Their prices include worldwide
surface shipping, but there is a £3 surcharge for overseas airmail.

Hooton AirCraft
makes 1:25 scale models of classic airplanes. These are
actually multi-media kits; most of the kits have etched metal parts,
vacuforms for difficult 3D moulded components, resin-cast or hand-built
metal exposed
engines, carved pine propellers, wire and rigging cable, moulded wheels, and
comprehensive decals. All the kits contain illustrated step-by-step
instructions, histories of the type and of individual aircraft, and a
handbook detailing special card modeling techniques. Some of the kits
include specially prepared colour 3 or 5 views, and include some
original photos. If you have trouble getting to their homepage
by the link above, try this one.

Usborne
produces a modest range of fairly simple and colorful dioramas,
including some unusual subjects, such as a haunted house and a wizard's
castle. They are widely available through bookstores and are available
in the US from PMI.

from Louise Heard <louise.heard@virgin.net>:
'We are a supplier of cardboard models. Our speciality is the toy
theatre. As well as English thatres by Pollock's, Everett and Jackson.
We sell a variety of European toy theatres. We also sell a variety of
cut-out models for both children and adults.

'Our beautifully illustrated catalogue features a selection and comes
with a miniature theatre to cut out with a production of Hamlet. It costs
£3 (£3.50 - U.S.A.) and is available by writing to us or
by telephone.

Alphagrafix makes model kits for the model RR market in card, resin, and white
metal. Their line includes over 250 card kits of buses, trams, buildings,
and other
subjects. Some of the kits are multi-media, including card structures with
resin or white metal detail and textured parts. Most of their custom is by
mail order; payment by check or money order only. Inquire about custom designs.

ALPHAGRAFIX
23 Darris Road
Selly Park
Birmingham B29 7QY
England

Metcalfe Models has a line of about 25 buildings in OO and N scale. Some
of the models are buildings seen on the Settle and Carlisle Railway. They
accept credit cards and ship internationally.

Heritage Models
has a line of architectural models of British buildings of
historical interest. Some are uncoloured and require painting;
others are in full colour. They accept credit cards and will
ship internationally.

The Cabaret Mechanical Theatre
is a museum devoted to moving mechanical sculptures. Although not
exclusively devoted to paper models, they do sell about 20 different
paper automata kits through their shop.

Germany

Möwe Verlag publishes the
Wilhelmshaven line of high quality
ships and aircraft. They also publish the German edition of Möwe,
the newsletter of the Friends of Wilhelmshaven Models. Subscribers
receive a 10% discount on models purchased by mail. (Möwe Verlag
does mail order in Germany; for Wilhelmshaven models in the US, see H&B or
PMI above;
in the UK, see Marcle Models;
for other countries, inquire.)

Scheuer & Strüver
publishes an enormous catalog of models on all
subjects; they also have their own line of Imperial German warships.
A list of the model lines they carry is available.
Their 1999 catalog is 160 pages in full colour and includes a free model
steam locomotive "Länderbahn-Lok T12" in HO scale.
The catalog is DM 8 (with shipping to the US, the total cost is DM 23 surface
or DM 34 airmail). They accept VISA, Diners Club, EUROCARD and
MasterCard.
They will do mail order throughout Europe. From the US, you
can order directly from them, or H&B Precision Card
Models in Virginia can arrange to get them in the USA (they pool several
orders to reduce shipping costs, so this can take a little while.)
You can also order on-line through their web-site (in German only right
now, but an English version is in the works.)

Thomas Pleiner carries models
of his own design. He is also the exclusive distributor outside Europe
of the CFM-models line.
He will ship world-wide; inquire about shipping costs. He accepts
cash, check, and money order. A brochure and promotional CD are in
the works.

Italy

Editoriale Domus has a line of
architectural models called DomusKit. They sell direct by
mail order; their multilingual web site lists prices in lire and dollars,
but doesn't mention shipping costs. DomusKits are also available through
other vendors, e.g. Marcle, and S&S. Despite the fact that their WWW site
list prices in US dollars, they apparently do not accept orders from
the United States. (The US distributer is reported to be Lombard
Marketing, Bloomfield, CT, 1-800-741-3519.)

Run by Koen Berfelo, son of Jan Berfelo, who made more then 100 models
(airplanes, ships, cars, buildings) between 195- and 1970 under the name
Veritas.
Koen now publishes and distributes paper models including some old
Veritas models. They are the Dutch distributors for the Spanish publisher
Alcan.

Designer and publisher since 1981, mostly fun postcards. Published two
architectural model kits in 1988.

France

L'Instant Durable
(``Lasting Moment'')
publish a line of approximately 60 detailed models. Most are of European
castles, chateaux, and cathedrals, but there are also some other subjects
represented, such as theatres, and one ship and one automobile. They also
have a line of postcard models.
They accept credit cards and shipping charges are included in the prices,
but they have a 200 franc minimum order.

from Alain de Bussac <art@instantdurable.com>:
``L'Instant Durable distributes a nice catalog of 48 pages presenting on
24 pages an historical text about architectural paper models in the world
since the beginning of the 19th century and the rest of the pages
offers a selection of the most famous publications: Epinal,Schreiber,
micro model, Dover, l'Instant Durable, Ciutat de Paper,Domus...with
photographs in colour with presentation of the collections.

``This catalog has been published during an exhibition in Paris in
1987, organised by the Stichting Kunstprojecten of Rotterdam and the Caisse
Nationale des Monuments Historiques.

``The text is all written in French

``Price:180FRF [or $40 US] by slow air mail, door to door from France.''

Editions Pascaline
5 Rue Pascal
63000 Clermont-Ferrand
FRANCE

from Robert Tauxe <Tauxerob@aol.com>:
Have returned from a trip to Brittany, in France, where I haunted
shops for paper models, particularly looking for Editions Pascaline.
No luck. Did find a new series of simple models published by Editions
Ouest France, 13, rue du Breuil, Rennes, all designed by Dominique
Ehrhard. These are large format, like the simpler Dover books, with a
Breton flavor: 6 Lighthouses, 4 Traditional fishing boats, 3 Ocean liners
(the Normandie, The France, and the Titanic), and a 3 masted ship. They
are in print, and retailed for 85 Franks @ (5.7 = $1). Nice entry
level models - colorful, large (can't comment on the fit - haven't built
one), and attractive format. They look easy to build.

Poland

Pelta
carries the Flying Model, GPM, A. Halinski, JSC, and Model Card lines
from Poland. Shipping costs to the USA are +70% (min. $13) for air mail,
or +30% (min. $10) for surface mail. I haven't had occasion to inquire about
shipping to other destinations.

from Thomas Peters <thomas.peters@unibw-muenchen.de>:
I have ordered twice from GryHobby, everything worked fine. They
want foreign orders prepaid - I understand this policy. Their English
knowledge is poor/non existent, but their German knowledge is very good.
Bank transfers are expensive, I send money (DM) as a consignment of
valuables, then the German postal service insures the shipping.

Denmark

Czech Republic

from King Butler <kbutler@mandala.ca>:
I, and some others, have been trying to find the address for the Czech
youth magazine "ABC". The magazine is published fortnightly and
contains a card model with each issue. For what it's worth, I got the
address, but apparently no-one there speaks/reads English because they do
not respond to letters sent to them. The magazine is very cheap - about
$0.25 per issue. [Reportedly, Nikolaus Waldmann of Germany
(address above) carries reprints of some of the models published in
ABC.] The address is:

Reakce ABC
Domazlicka 11
Prague 3, 13000

Switzerland

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
Write and they will send you an order form.

They publish ONLY Swiss related models, and most of them come on
two large A3 sheets, all with instructions in German, some with text in
French. The models are very easy, straightforward, and the diagrams are
crystal clear, as they are intended to be teaching aids in Swiss
classrooms. They have about 60 different kits, and they are grouped in
the following categories; transportation,
history and culture, geography, Christmas and holidays, activities for
young children ages 6-8, and workbooks. We bought and made lots of the
architectural and transportation models, such as a City Gate of Basel,
the Clocktower of Bern, the reconstructed Roman Home of Augusta Raurica,
two Swiss Air Jets, the Airbus 310 and the MD 11, a working cable car
and a Swiss rescue helicopter. We found these kits in toy shops and art
supply stores, and they cost 2 SF apiece, that is, about $1.50 each.
Cheap by any standards!

Belgium

Dupré publishes the 17th century Dutch
East India Company ship Batavia. They accept credit cards and
will ship worldwide.

Asia

Israel

Moshe Lemer
carries models from the Israeli Air Force Magazine and ModelArt, as well
as an assortment of other models. The collection is mostly aircraft,
but includes some ships and ground vehicles. He has a list he will send
by e-mail or paper mail, or you can check out his WWW page and see pictures of
some of the models he's built, as well as the list.
You can purchase the ML kits with a credit card through xprss.com.

B.C. Models
publish a modest line of buildings in HO scale. By modest,
I mean it's only a few models. Their showpiece model of Rippon Lea, with
over 1000 pieces and 20 pages of instructions, sounds anything but modest.

Note that this is not an comprehensive list. In particular, mail
order sources which also have a web site are linked from their listing
above, and may not be listed below. So always check the mail order listings,
even if you're looking for web sites.

KittyHawk Software sells
origami related software such as
Greatest Paper
Airplanes, Paper
Animal Workshop, and
Christmas Ornament
Workshop. A new release,
Paper Air Force,
offers flying models that are considerably more detailed and realistic
than a typical paper airplane. They also sell a variety of models
through their
Paper Paradise site.
They have selections from the PMI, Dover, Usborne, Modelcard,
Kenilworth, Schreiber, JSC, and Wilhelmshaven lines and seem to
be adding new ones often. They have some of the ModelArt planes
which can be purchased on-line and downloaded immediately.
There are free models available there as well.

Iceberg is a small
one-man firm, specialized in the design of (architectural) paper model
kits. Iceberg also generously provides web space to display the
models of some other small publishers, including
Solo,
Kenilworth Press, and
Port Daniel Press.

William
Mahmoud has US Civil War ironclads in 1/185 scale. Presently
5 kits are available; more are planned.

Fiddler's Green has
an extensive line of buildings (in model RR scales), planes
(in approximately 1:60 scale), and a few other things, available
either as hardcopy or in electronic form. Also free samples.

Tecadbur Almere
has three buildings and a set of kitchen cabinets. Prices and
shipping terms are unclear (but they tell me they're still
working the page, so it may be more clear soon.)

Peramodel has
models which seem to be a cross between origami and other
paper model techniques, mostly on animal themes. They are
downloadable, but you have to purchase a password (about $20) to view
or print the models. There are four sample available (as the site
in Japanese, if you're not fluent, you may have to explore a bit
to find the samples.) The English section of the site presently
has some problems, but you can find instructions
for payment from outside Japan
here.

PaperMagic
has models of some historic Korean buildings and a turtle ship.
The models are die-cut, no-glue tab-and-slot models. A couple of
the models can be ordered from outside Korea; they accept credit
cards. The site is available in
English
and
Korean.

T. Sheil have PC
WhistleStop, almost a dozen sets of buildings intended for
model railroad layouts. Each set includes about 30 buildings.
The sets are apparently distributed in Windows MetaFile (wmf)
or Corel Draw (cdr) format, so you need a desktop publishing
or graphics program which can handle these formats to work
with the models.

Hairston
Aviation have about 10 aircraft, mostly WWII military planes.
Most of the models are available in several configurations, with
prices from $3 to $7 (US). Free samples of the Cessna 172 and
the Pitts Special can be downloaded.

MicroTactix
have a line of cardstock building kits, in 25 mm scale, intended
for miniatures wargaming.

A Magia Do
Papel ("A Magic for Paper") is a Brazilian site. They have
no original content,
all of the models are free downloads from other sites. They will
sell you a CD with the models to save you downloading them.
Although the FAQ editor doesn't read Portugese, it appears they
have not secured permission to do this from the copyright holders,
nor have they credited the original sources for the models. Their
listing here is for the sake of completeness, and should not be
taken to mean that the FAQ editor endorses these practices.

EZ Structures sells sets
of buildings in N (1:160) and Z (1:220) scale. They have a
free sample available.

Sailing Ships
For some reason, sailing ships aren't as well represented in paper
model kits as other vessels. However, there are a few. The Paper
Models International catalog has about a dozen, ranging from prehistoric
to 20th century. HMS Victory and Cutty Sark are available
in the Micromodels line; contact Myles Mandell,
Micromodels@yahoo.com.
Also note the STS Lord Nelson model available from the Jubilee Sailing
Trust, for a model of a modern tall ship.

from Wendy Kwang Yee Leng <yeeleng@jtc.gov.sg>:
The theatres sure look interesting. But I have an innocent question.
What is the significance of collecting/building them besides being nice
to look at? Is it supposed to show how the props/set look like when the
play is first acted? Or, the kit just provides all the props to act out
the play?

from Kaye Meldrum <kjmel@pacbell.net>:
In answer to your question, both, I think. Some of the theatres are
historic in that they are reprints of original ones that have been
around for more then a hundred years. Robert Louis Stevenson wrote
about "one penny plain, two pennies colored", which meant that Victorian
children could buy a theatre and color it, or purchase it already
colored.
Some of the theatres are actual models of real buildings, such as
L'Instant Durables, and, most of them do come with all props, people,
etc.

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
My father tells stories of his paper theater productions back in the
30's. He saved up his coins to buy and/or make complete sets for his
favorite plays. (He was a very precocious youngster, I imagine.) He
staged living room productions of Gilbert and Sullivan, Shakespeare and
others for his friends and family, and my uncle tells of being roped
into several productions of this or that. As my father tells it, that
was as close as Shakespeare got to rural mountain Georgia when he was a kid.

from Bob Bell <bobbell@portal.connect.ab.ca>:
The toy theater is part of the history and culture of Europe...
particularly England and Germany. During the late Victorian and
Edwardian times the toy theater could be found in almost every home,
usualy the property of the oldest son, and it was considered part of
the children's cultural education. The scenes and characters were
actually drawn at the theater by artists hired by the companies that
published the toy theaters.

Although these theaters are nice to look at they are meant to
be used to put on plays. I had the pleasure of watching a play when I
visited Pollocks Toy Museum in London a few years ago, and I was
completely captivated. The combination of lighting changes, good music,
special effects (such as a flash of light when the wicked witch suddenly
appeared), and deft handling of the characters, was, for me, more
thrilling than any live theater production I have seen.

To get a good "feel" for the toy theater read R. L. Stevenson's
"Penny Plain and Twopence coloured".

Readers interested in paper theatres may also be interested in
Crechemania.

from Robert Tauxe <Tauxerob@aol.com>:
I am an innocent on the art of international payment, having never used
anything but a VISA card and a personal check in U.S. funds. I have a few
pound notes stashed away, and some spare German change from the late 40's,
but that probably wont do it. I've seen occasional references on this list
to other more arcane forms of payment that sound like international vouchers
of some kind, but don't know what this is. If I wanted to order something
from Marckle, in UK or S&S in Germany, how would I pay for it?
Where would I get those voucher thingies?

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
I've found the least expensive way to purchase from overseas (and
remember, for me, the US is overseas) is the good old plastic card.

I used to always use Bank Drafts, but the inconvenience of
having to go to bank to arrange them, then the cost of international
postage on top of that was just a pain in the you-know-where.

Added to that, banks drafts are not cheap. My bank charges $A6
for each draft, and one bank I tried when I lived in Thailand wanted to
charge $US25 per draft! But bank drafts are secure. They are drawn in
favour of a particular person or company, like a cheque, and are usually
endorsed with an upper limit (often the next whole dollar above the
amount for which the draft is made). The down side is that some
companies will not ship orders until the draft is cleared. In the case
of (say) a US company in middle America, the draft must make its way
from the local depositing bank branch to the US office of (say) the
Australian bank's office in New York, clearly adding several days to
the delivery time.

Virtually all reputable businesses will accept one of the major
credit cards, especially Visa and Mastercard, and sometimes Amex. In
the past month alone I have renewed magazine subscriptions in the US
and the UK, purchased models from PMI, obtained a book from Japan,
software from Canada and a recording from New Zealand -- all on plastic.

I use some fax software to send the orders directly from my
computer. In fact, to send a simple one page fax to the US or Canada
costs me less than the postage to send the same letter airmail. I have
my signature digitised and this is added to the appropriate point in
each letter.

So what's new? Nothing, except that this is the method that
works for me and has reduced my 'outward bound' costs to only the cost
of the dial-up fax and I save however many days it would have taken
for the letter to have reached the supplier.

International Reply Coupons were originally developed to cover
the cost of a return letter. Thus I could send Bob Bell or Myles a
letter with an IRC and they could each exchange the IRC at their post
offices for the relevant stamps for a reply, even if the local air mail
postage charges, comparing exchange rates, were different. (Back in the
dim dark days it used to be that one IRC equalled sea-mail return and
four IRCs were needed for an airmail reply. Now, one IRC is USUALLY the
rate for airmail. I recently purchased a number of IRCs for letters
going to the UK for which I was requesting a reply, and was assured,
yet again, by Australia Post that one IRC now buys an airmail reply.)

IRCs may be useful for small amounts, say up to $5, but as
'negotiable instruments' to use the jargon, they are not worth the
trouble, and often can only be exchanged for stamps, not cash.
[IRC prices vary widely, e.g., about $1.05 in the US vice $3.75 in
Canada.]

Some postal jurisdictions also have what are called 'International
Money Orders'. You buy these as you would a bank draft. There is a
charge, usually a percentage of the value of the money order. Recipients
of money orders can exchange them at most post offices or deposit them
into a bank.

Having said all that, I still will generally use my faxed credit
card details, although I would be reluctant to send this information
to certain countries. I have no doubt at all that within a few weeks
my bill would show all sorts of charges from all sorts of exotic
locations. My fall back in this case would be to use bank drafts.

Editor's note: the following comments comments apply to purchases
made in the USA using IMOs issued by the USPS.

from Keith Walker <keithwwalker@yahoo.com>:
About a month ago, a message was posted requesting information about the
best way for someone in the USA to order a kit from overseas. Everyone
agreed that using a credit card was the best and quickest method.

But there are some vendors overseas out there who do not process
credit card orders, and they will accept payment only by a check or bank
draft drawn in their own foreign currency, or an international money order
(IMO) from the United States Postal Service (USPS). Depending on your
post office, IMO's can be quick and easy to get, so you can get your kit
from overseas relatively quickly for less cost than it takes to get a
bank draft ($10-15).

There was confusion about IMO's that are issued by the USPS,
however. Some posts stated that they are only issued in the foreign
currency denomination, and the last time I purchased one it was issued in
American $ denomination. Who was right? Who was wrong? It turns out
that nobody was wrong, but to find out why I had to dig into the USPS
website and I spoke with several USPS employees to find out more.

It turns out that there are THREE different types of money orders
used for International Postal Money Order Service; and depending on WHERE
you send your order, the IMO that you get will be different!

The following IMO service descriptions are taken verbatim from a
USPS bulletin, which went into effect December 1, 1995. If anyone has
updated information, please comment.

I will list ALL countries that accept IMO's as stated on the USPS
form (just in case there really is a cool hobby shop in Vatican City that
sells the Popemobile replete with a photo etch incense burner!); but will
list the most prominent countries at the beginning of their own respective
lists.

The former Trust Territories of the United States are the only
countries accepting the domestic postal money order from the United
States. The fee for this form is $0.85.
The Federated States of Micronesia (Kosrae, Pohnpei, Chuuk, Yap)
The Republic of the Marshall Islands (Majuro, Ebeye)
The Republic of Palau (Koror)

The following countries accept international postal money orders
from the United States using the International Postal Money Order form
MP1. The fee for this form is $3.
Canada
Japan
Mexico
Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Bolivia, British
Virgin Islands, Cape Verde, Costa Rica, Dominica, Ecuador, El Salvador,
Grenada, Guyana, Honduras, Jamaica, Mali, Montserrat, Nigeria, Peru, St.
Christopher (St. Kitts) and Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the
Grenadines, Sierra Leone, Trinidad and Tobago

I can only assume that countries that are not listed do not have a
reciprocal exchange with the USPS; and you probably don't want to do a lot
of model shopping from Mongolia or North Korea anyway.

Now for some examples.

If you wanted to send an IMO to Japan, you would look up in the
list and find that Japan accepts the 'form MP1' type of IMO, which costs
$3. This form is orange-pink in color, and is just like a regular money
order in format. It is issued in US$ DENOMINATIONS! So you have to know
how much your order is in US$, because the foreign post office will do the
currency conversion. I have recently used the MP1 IMO to order a kit from
Atelier Noix in Japan (he only accepts IMO's), and the exchange went
smoothly, I got the kit within two weeks. To account for any currency
fluctuations between the time when you get the order and the time it is
redeemed, be sure to err on the generous side of the fluctuation to make
sure things go smoothly (1-2% of final order including shipping).

If you wanted to send an IMO to England or France, you would use the
'Authorization to Issue an International Money Order form set' which costs
$7.50 (let's call it IMO-2). This IMO-2 is ISSUED IN THE FOREIGN CURRENCY
of the recipient's home country. It has been about ten years since I have
last used one, but I believe that the process goes like this. You tell the
USPS employee how much the IMO-2 should be in the foreign currency. They
calculate the exchange rate of the currency. You pay the employee, and
fill out a form instructing where the IMO shall be sent. That information
is sent to a processing center where the IMO is issued in the foreign
denomination and then mailed to it's destination.

If the process still works like that, then I would assume that it
is still slow, since the IMO-2 has to be processed at a central facility.
At least the IMO-2 is issued in the foreign currency so that you don't
have to worry about any currency fluctuations whilst in transit.

Hope this clears things up! Please if you have any comments
(especially experiences pertaining to the 'Authorization to Issue an
International Money Order form set') please post them. Hopefully this
information can be posted to the FAQ file.

Saul Jacobs'
Paper/Card
Model Page. Saul has written short reviews of numerous aircraft
kits. He also hosts reviews written by others, and is in a position
to offer a limited amount of web space to designers and dealers for
the purpose of publicizing new or special offers. See his page for
details.

Pierre Gauriat has
pictures of models he's built, information on French publishers
past and present, reviews and construction notes for models he's
built, and tips on construction and design. He also has
available for download several models
of his own design. (En Français et Anglais.)

Andrew
McCauley has pictures of some of the models he's built, and
model house to download.

Alan Frenkel
has pictures of the 3rd International Paper Modeler's Convention
in Dayton.

Other WWW resources

The Military
Miniatures online magazine has an article titled
Paper
Tigers: Cardboard Models in 1:72 Scale.
In a significant oversight,
the author of the article doesn't mention where he got 1:72
scale card models of military vehicles. The FAQ editor is aware of
a wide range of such models in 1:25 scale, but none in 1:72--further
information would be appreciated.

International
Maritime Modeling is a site devoted to ship modeling in all
media, and they have some content on paper models, including
reviews of JSC and William Mahmoud models.

Todd Gantzler of San Francisco State University teaches a course called
Principles
of Modeling. The on-line syllabus includes an introduction
to three dimensional and orthographic drawing, and it includes
a very sample simple model to illustrate the concepts.

Translation Experts, Inc. sells
a variety of translation software, and trial versions of their
WordTran software are available as
shareware.
Rivendell
has a page with with uses Translation Experts' Intertrans software,
which can translate text and web pages.

Dictionary.com has
resources for English and other languages, as well as an on-line
translator.

Mailing Lists, Bulletin Boards, Newsgroups, et Cetera

There are now three automated mailing lists for paper model enthusiasts.

Cardmodel-L mailing list

The Cardmodel-L list began in March 1997. The genesis of the group was
Jack Graham, who in June 1996 began collecting e-mail addresses of persons
interested in corresponding about paper models. Within a few months, that
group had grown so much that informal arrangements were no longer sufficient,
and King Butler stepped in and set up the automated list. Much of the
contents of this FAQ came from
this source. The list membership includes builders, collectors, designers, and
retailers, spread over 15 countries, comprising a wide range of expertise,
experience, and interests. Beginners to the paper modeling hobby and
experienced modellers are both welcome. To subscribe to the list, send an
email message to:

where firstname is replaced by your first name
and lastname is your last
name. Within a few minutes you will receive a message asking you to
confirm your subscription. Just reply to that message, replacing the
text of the message with only the word ``ok'' (without the quotes) and you
will be subscribed to the Cardmodel-L list. The list is available as a
digest or index; this option can be set up after you have subscribed.
The Cardmodel-L list is archived automatically; the archives are
available to subscribers by e-mail or on the WWW.
Many thanks to King Butler <kbutler@mandala.ca> for setting up
the Cardmodel-L list.

NOTE: For various reasons (not under the control of the FAQ editor)
there is a limit on the number of subscribers to Cardmodel-L. If you
get a message to this effect when you try to join, please contact
King Butler and ask him to
put you on the waiting list. He tells me that it's usually a short wait.

CardModelers mailing list

In January 1999, Saul Jacobs set up the CardModelers list. This list
differs from the Cardmodel-L list in that there is more commercial content.
In particular, manufacturers, designers, and dealers are encouraged to post
information about new items, special offers, et cetera. There is no limit
on the number of members to this list. To subscribe to the list, send an
email message to

where your-email-address is, of course, replaced by your e-mail
address.
You will shortly receive a message with instructions on how to confirm your
subscription. Once you've done that, you'll be subscribed to the CardModelers
list. The list is also available in digest form, see
Saul Jacobs' page for more
information.
Many thanks to Saul Jacobs <saulj4@msn.com> for setting up
the CardModelers list.

Papermodels mailing list

The papermodels mailing list is hosted at eGroups. Subscribe by visiting
this page.

Other Internet forums

Other forums for paper modeling on the Internet are the
Paper Model Message
Board, which is a nice concept but not yet as widely known as it
needs to be; and the rec.models.scale
newsgroup, where paper modelers are welcome, despite a preponderance of
polysterene addicts.
There is a Paper
Model Lovers Club, a
Paper Models
Of Cars club, and a
Paper Bus club
on Yahoo.
Also, you don't need to join a mailing list to
participate in this FAQ; you're welcome to send comments, criticisms,
corrections, and contributions directly to
me.

Books and booklets

In addition to the books listed here, see the
Bibliography appendix, which lists a variety
of sources less general, or more obscure, than the ones described here.
The general idea is that good basic references be listed here, preferably
ones in print (or at least still circulating copies are in existence).
Less general or more obscure citations are in the appendix. However, as
always, actual practice is a little arbitrary and subject to editorial
whims.

The Art of Paper Modeling with Wilhelmshaven Models is a
four page booklet containing a summation of general tips on
paper modeling. It's available from H&B Precision Card Models.
They ship a copy with each Wilhelmshaven model with English or
diagram instructions. They'll also send a copy to anyone who
sends a stamped self-addressed legal size envelope.
Wilhelmshaven also have a set of tips online in
German and
English.

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
Geoffrey Deason was among the doyen of card modelers. His interest
stretches back to his boyhood, and over the ensuing years he had a great
influence on card modeling both as a practitioner and a promoter. Deason
was a regular contributor to a wide range of British modeling magazines,
principally those of the old Model and Allied Publications (MAP) stable,
and especially "Scale Models". At one time he was editor of the company's
"Model Cars" magazine, and I certainly recall his articles in "Model Boats".

His major work was a book published in 1958 called "Cardboard
Engineering with Scissors and Paste", which was reprinted in 1969 under
the title "Simple Cardboard Models". Ninety per cent of the book is
devoted to scratch building and covers road and rail vehicles, ships, etc,
and usually also dealt with motorising the models, where this was feasible.
Curiously, there is no mention of aircraft. Deason was a contemporary of
Micromodels' Geoffrey Heighway -- indeed, in the book he has a photograph
of a small car model which he made from three business cards and "which
was the prototype for a Micromodels model".

His scratch modeling tips were brilliant. I have never found
anything to match his method of producing wire-spoked wheels for sports
and racing car models. Deason was also a great advocate of jigs - for
all sorts of jobs. His construction guide for the wheels, great and small,
of a traction engine is particularly impressive. While he was not a
'rivet counter' in terms of absolute accuracy, he was very much of the
school that the finished product should be as accurate as YOUR SKILL
LEVEL PERMITS IT TO BE. In other words, the end result should be
satisfying for the constructor in terms of his or her ability at that
time. He did not condemn the neophyte whose skills did not match a more
advanced builder.

But he always encouraged builders to learn more. And this is the
great advantage of the book: no matter what your skill level, there is
sure to be something in it that you will learn. For example, the
gum-strip technique for shaping the very complex hull shape of the Paddle
Tug "Anglia" is not something a first-time builder would be wise to
undertake, yet would be a very appealing new method for compound curve
shapes for someone with reasonably advanced skills to try.

Deason did not like the simple 'cut-out'. If the original of the
component being modeled was three-dimensional, then insofar as it was
possible for it to be so, the model must be, too. Yet sometimes his
modeling instructions seem to say the opposite. It was really a clever
inspirational ploy. YOU were encouraged to try adding a bit more. In the
instructions for his model River Clyde puffer, the deckhouse has only
card cut-out windows. However, a builder, having reached that stage, and
having developed a level of self confidence, would hardly resist adding
clear plastic or cellophane "window panes" (this modeler included).

Deason seemed content to model almost anything but equally it is
clear that ships were a great love. In 1972 he released "Cardboard
Ship Models" which details construction methods for three model boats that
ranged from a very simple destroyer to a reasonably complex coastal ferry.

Indeed, I recall an article in "Model Boats" (July 1975) in which he
outlined construction of a model boat (SY Cardella) which then
was fitted with a live steam engine. His goal was to sail the boat across
the particular lake, and as I recall the venture succeeded.

Model and Allied Publications either changed owners or names (or
both) in the early 90s and now trades under the name of Nexus Publications.
I do not know if any of Deason's books are still in print, but next to an
original Pollock's theatre (uncut) or some of Herr Schreiber's models from
before the turn of the century (also uncut), Deason's books are absolutely
the best thing for a card modeler to find. I have a reasonably
comprehensive library of card modeling books, but none approach the
craft with the seriousness and intent of purpose of Geoffrey Deason's.

I do not know if Geoffrey Deason is still alive. Given that he was
a contemporary of Heighway, he must be getting on in years. Certainly,
in "Cardboard Ship Models" there is a photograph of him. It shows a
slight, balding figure, whose age I'd put at about late 50s or early 60s.
If that was in, say, 1971, just before the book was published, he would
now be well into his 80s.

Neither do I know if the books are still available. Perhaps someone
in the book trade could do a search of books in print for us to see if
these titles are still in print, or perhaps a list subscriber in Britain
might be able to more easily check with Nexus for us.

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
Lozier also deals with models in plastic and balsa, but only in a
half-hearted way. Card is clearly his preferred medium. The car models
he describes are very good, and feature a lot of useful ideas, but his
boat and locomotive models are poor by comparison. Lozier is not a purist
when it comes to card modeling - he happily includes the odd bit of wood
or plastic if that helps make the model better, but nevertheless he IS
on the right track.

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
I very nearly passed this book up. It was 'only' architectural
models, and not what I was interested in at the time. But since I
bought it nearly 30 years ago, it has become a well-used reference.
Essentially it is an introduction to architectural model making. In
his preface, Bayley says: 'The purpose of this book is to make a clear
and constructive approach to cardboard model making, which is a craft
of considerable importance and is extensively used by professional
model makers, architects and display artists'. The introductory chapter
outlines a range of easily made jigs that will help the model maker, and
then, through a series of graded exercises, the model maker takes on
increasingly difficult tasks. The first model is a simple four-sided,
flat-roofed building; the last is a modern church. Along the way we
build a Cotswold cottage, a medieval gatehouse, a Norman keep, and
several other interesting (constructionally) models. For those who
aspire to build architecturally accurate models from original plans, either
as a hobby or for a living, this book is an excellent introduction.

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
If Mr Ford's Model T is your idea of a great thing to model, this
is a great book. Lots of diagrams, plans (all dimensioned) make it a
treasure trove for Model T aficionados. Unfortunately, Ross never
gets beyond a simple disc wheel for his cars. If only he had read
Deason, he'd have known how to make spoked wheels.

from Larry Stillman <larrys@vicnet.net.au>:
I think that Heighway (who designed Micromodels) might have
learnt his craft from this book - many of the designs seem eerily
reminiscent of what I have seen of some Micromodels.

The Modelmaker's Handbook, Albert Jackson and David Day,
Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1981. ISBN 0-394-50788-6. Not specific
to card modeling, this is an encyclopedic reference on almost
all aspects of scale modeling in almost all media.

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
The design of developments and intersections calls for a
knowledge of auxiliary views and revolutions. This in turn assumes
a working knowledge of descriptive geometry, and two and three view
drawing. And this presupposes that one already knows how to use a
T-square, compass, dividers and triangles. I'm sorry to say that
if one is interested in design, one is best advised to begin at
the beginning. The book above is recommended by the chair of the
Engineering Tech department at Austin Peay State University
(Clarksville, TN) for anyone wishing to learn this stuff on his/her
own. It is a high school text, and it is exceedingly clear in all
of its descriptions of processes and techniques.

So, that's my advice. Start at the beginning. I know that all
those illustrations of developments of scalene cones by triangulation
look intoxicating, but you'll only end up frustrated if you try to
begin your designing there.

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
This is an AMAZING volume, 320 pages devoted to exploring the
art of geometry through card constructions. It is made up mostly
of photographs and diagrams collected during the author's decades
of teaching a course entitled "Working with Paper" at the Zurich
School of Art. The German text is actually secondary to the
illustrations; my own students have been using a copy of an older,
much smaller, now out-of-print edition of this text for years, and
no one has ever asked to have a single word translated.

An expensive book at around 75 dollars. If you're interested
in nosing around used book stores, you might find an English
translation of the small first edition, copyright sometime in the
1970's. It used to be a required text in basic three dimensional
design classes at the Rhode Island School of Design.

from Clark Britton <cbritjr@swbell.net>:
The Zeier book was also reprinted by van Nostrand in a paper back
edition. It was very affordable. I agree this was a great book on card
construction and has many applications.

Magazines

Kartonowy Fan is
a Polish magazine devoted to paper modeling. It has been reported
that AirConnection
may be able to supply copies of this magazine to readers in North
America.

Newsletters

Möwe, the newsletter of the Friends of Wilhelmshaven Models.
Published quarterly in the United States by H&B Precision
Card Models. An annual subscription is $15 ($20 overseas);
subscribers get a 10% discount on all models ordered from
H&B.

The Cardformation Newsletter is published quarterly by Jon Murray and
includes a small model in each issue. Subscriptions are
$15.00 per year ($18.00 for subscribers outside the USA.)
A subscription
form is available on the WWW.

from Jon Murray <CARDJON@primary.net>:
``I publish a US newsletter called CardFormation.
The newsletter promotes the hobby. We publish 4 times a year and have
kit reviews, articles by modelers, a card modeling tip, sources of card
models, free want ad service and a hokey informational editorial by
written by myself. I include a simple model (sometimes 2) in each
newsletter.... Our next issue Summer 97 will include a Tomahawk Cruise
Missile model. We have had Boats, planes, buildings, missiles as well as
Space Vehicles in the models.''

Cardboard Engineering Group seems to have started with the idea
of scratch building trains and lay-outs, and have gone on from there.
Subscriptions are £10.

from Kaye Meldrum <kjmel@pacbell.net>:
Just received my latest issue of the British 'Cardboard Engineering
Group Newsletter'. The editor, Nick Jackson, is wanting to retire from
writing this year [1997] and is looking for volunteers to continue next year.

Museums

The Old
Strathcona Model and Toy Museum is a museum devoted to paper
models and origami. Very sadly, they had to close their doors at
the end of 1997, and they have sold most of their stock in the gift
shop, but their web site is still up, and they're looking for a new
home for the collection. Their entry here is preserved
for the day when they'll be able to open again. A
review of the museum is available.

The Paper
Airplane Museum has a collection of more than 2500 models
and kits, as well as a collection of photographs devoted to
Hawaii's aviation history. Admission is free (but donations
are tax-deductible.)

13th

The 13th International Karton-Modellbau-Treffen (Card model construction
meetings) was be held on the 28-29th of April, 2001 at the
Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum in
Bremerhaven.
Pictures:Peter Visser (follow links
to Index, then to Pictures)

12th

The 12th International Karton-Modellbau-Treffen (Card model construction
meetings) was held in April, 2000 at the
Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum in Bremerhaven.
Gunnar Sillén took some
pictures.

11th

The 11th International Karton-Modellbau-Treffen (Card model construction
meetings) was held on the 24th and 25th of April, 1999 at the
Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum in
Bremerhaven.

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
For the past eleven years paper modelers from Germany and Northern
Europe have been meeting on the last weekend of April at the German
National Museum of Shipping for two days of exhibitions, presentations
and conviviality. This year's event was attended by more than 100,
including 21 exhibitors and 19 lecturers on paper modeling related
topics. (Two people, for example, gave talks on the newly opened
Schreiber museum. One discussed the development and aims of the museum
as a whole, and the other focused specifically on the paper modelling
component of the collection, which runs the gamut from early 19th century
models to the latest additions.) Four designers/publishers also presented
upcoming kits from their respective houses. Several "cottage designers"
were also present: one exhibited several all white prototypes of heavy
industrial machinery at 1:20 scale, and another, the only WOMAN
modeler/designer present, had a handsome series of tugs and freighters at
1:200. [There are pictures of some of Imogen Zimmer's model ships at
News and Views from
Modellbyggarakademien.]
A couple from the former East Germany presented an impressive
line of over 40 new models, ranging from East German housing projects and
East German Socialist monuments, to many variations on the Trabant, the
ubiquitous small car of eastern Europe. All in all, a wonderful weekend,
and well worth the exhausting trip.

from Mayer Brenner <mabrenner@mediaone.net>:
Any idea when these are likely to be available?

Was there any feeling at the Meeting that paper modelling is
increasing in popularity? From my vantage point, the past several years
have seen a tremendous expansion in the range of products out there. Is
that just an artifact of the widened horizons the Internet and the mailing
lists have facilitated and the greater internationalization of the
modelling community, or is a rising tide actually lifting all boats (so
to speak)?

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
The guy working on the heavy machinery is planning on selling his kits
via the Internet. The young woman who designs the great little boats
has not even yet begun to approach publishers and vendors, and actually,
she was somewhat overwhelmed by the enthusiastic response to her work!
Also, she's still at the unversity studying geography, so she's pretty
tied up with other responsibilities at the moment. Another designer has
just come out with a 1:50 WWI airplane, the Farman IV. He, too, plans
to market via the Internet. The only folks who expressed an interest in
approaching the US market via mail order catalogs were the two from the
former East Germany. They are also in the process of setting up a web
site, but they speak only German. I traded business cards with all of
the folks mentioned and everyone agreed to let me know when their sites
are up and running. I'll pass on the info when they do.

[On popularity...]
Yes and no. Yes, in that many were pleasantly surprised at the
increasing popularity in the USA, but they were equally perplexed that
Americans would interest themselves in something perceived as so "old
world." On the other hand, everyone is lamenting the fact that there
are so few young paper modelers, and a recurring topic of conversation
was how to increase interest in the art, craft and hobby . (I met only
four modellers under the age of thirty, and the three in their 20's felt
themselves to be exceptions. All, however, were very active in that
they built AND designed models. The youngest exhibitor, a thirteen
year old, was there with his dad, and he also had one of his own designs
available as a freebie: an all-white kit of a city bus.)

10th

from Werner Winkler <werner.rudi.winkler@t-online.de>:
On the 25th and 26th, April, 1998 there will be a big meeting of
all cardmodellers in Bremerhaven, Germany. Dr. Stoelting, senior
executive of the Deutsches
Schiffahrtsmuseum, Bremerhaven, will hold the 10th annual
meeting this year.

One of the key points in his agenda is the product-planning
and discussion with the professional manufacturer.
-Walter Stute
-Waldmann GmbH
-Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag
-Moewe Verlag
-Anette Scholz Verlag
-CFM Verlag
-Deutsches Schiffahrtsmuseum
-(etc?)

from Werner Winkler <werner.rudi.winkler@t-online.de>:
For the last 10 years we have had a big meeting in Bremerhaven,
Germany, in the last weekend of April. I reached the event on
Saturday morning and many, many people had models exhibited. Twenty
cardmodellers gave lectures about and around our beautiful hobby.
There were ships, planes, some buildings, cars, etc. in excellent
condition. The manufacturers gave an overview for all new models
we can expect in 1998.

Annual International Paper Modelers Convention

Beginning in 1997, an annual
International Paper
Modelers Convention has been held in the Dayton, OH, USA, area.
Beginning in 2001, this series of conventions will be held in various
locations around North America. For descriptions and pictures of
past conventions, and information about upcoming ones, see
here.

UPDATED
The
2002 International
Paper Modelers Convention
will be held over the weekend of 25-27 October at the Dulles
Days Hotel and Convention Center (rooms are only $59.00 for single or double
on Friday and Saturday nights) in Herndon, VA (near Washington, DC and a
free shuttle ride from Dulles International Airport). There is a
registration fee of $10.00 and a 6 foot table costs $25.00.
We will start with an ice breaker ($10.00 for sandwiches with
a cash bar -- $15.00 for sandwiches w/o reservation) while we
set up the tables of displays. The Convention will be
open to the general public (free admission) on Saturday (approximately
10 am until 5pm) and Sunday (approximately 10 am until 3pm) --
we will also sponsor a "make and take" on Saturday and Sunday.
Saturday we will have a buffet ($25.00 with reservation and $30.00
at the door - cash bar) starting at 6pm and this will be followed by
an auction of donated models to help fund next year's convention
(so if you can't attend please send your donations and
reservations to Peter Ansoff, 6353 8th Circle, Alexandria, VA 22312-1903 or
send donations to H&B Precision Card Models, P.O. Box 8786, Reston, VA
20195). Sunday between 9 and 10 am we will have our annual business meeting
to discuss the site of next year's convention and how to improve on this
year's convention. BTW if you make your reservations and send payment
before 1 September there is a 10 percent discount.
So, for more details visit our
website
set up by Ed Schulman.

Bouwplatenbulletin convention in Holland

NEWfrom Peter J. Visser <peter@peterjvisser.demon.nl>:
The Dutch paper modellers convention will be held on October 19th
at the Aviodome at Schiphol Airport. This convention is organised
by the Bouwplaten Bulletin and soon as more info is posted on
their website I will let you know.
For past conventions you can go to the
Iceberg page
and choose PICTURE and go to Bouwplatenbulletin meeting 1999/2000/2001.

from Peter J. Visser <peter@peterjvisser.demon.nl>:
The third annual Dutch 'bouwplaten meeting' is planned to be held
at April 15 at the Flying Museum in Lelystad. Just like last year
it will be held between old airplanes like Tiger Moth, Fokker S-11
and Saab Safir. (have a look at
http://www.solcon.nl/vml/vmluk.htm
for their other airplanes.) So if
you're in the neighborhood, please drop by. Many Dutch designers
and publishers will be there: Sjoerd Hekking, Marc Gerretsen, Koen
Berfelo, etc.

The 2nd Bouwplatenbulletin meeting was held on April 10, 1999, at
the Nationale Luchtvaart Museum (National Aviation Museum) at Soesterberg
in the Netherlands. Peter Visser attended and took photographs, which
can be seen at the Iceberg
web site.

Australia

United Kingdom

The UK chapter of the card modelers mailing list put on a display
of paper models at the International Model Exhibition, Buckinghamshire, UK,
on the 8th October, 2000. Pictures are available at the
Heritage Models web site.

Miscellaneous exhibitions

from Christopher Cooke <christopher@marcle.co.uk>:
In Cockermouth on the edge of the Lake District, North West
England, is the Cumberland Toy and Model Museum run by Rod Moore.
Among a tremendous display of toys going back to the 1900s, there are
plenty of card models made up, including Micromodels & the Beam
Engine works! So, worth a visit and, if you present a copy of
Cutting Remarks you get a reduction on the entrance charge.

[Editor's note: the exhibit noted below is now closed. I have
left this comment in because it's a traveling exhibit, and I'm hoping
to find out where it's going to pop up next.]

from Peter J. Visser <peter@peterjvisser.demon.nl>:
If anyone gets near Helmond in The Netherlands, make sure you
visit the City Museum (Meyhuis). They have an exhibition called
'Architecture a decouper' and has lots of architectural paper model
kits. Empire State building, Sears Tower, Kremlin, Vatican, Teatro
del Mondo, Casa Battlo, Rietveld House, Eifeltower, Notre Dame, and
some L'Instant Durable Castles. It's an travelling exhibition that
started about 10 years ago, but keeps growing and changing. I saw it
about 8 or 9 years ago in The Hague, but it was also in Paris,
Brussels, Naples, Milan, Edinburgh and Amsterdam.

Editor's note: This section will soon contain a brief essay on
collecting paper models, with some comments on the virtues (and vices)
of collecting. For now, all that's here is a
link to an appendix listing the particular
interests of some collectors and builders.

from Saul H. Jacobs <saulj4@msn.com>:
I think most of us cardmodelers wind up being collectors. We find
that there are models that we just must have and go and buy them and then
wind up not having the time to build them. Some of us also got disappointed
when we have seen a model and said that I will wait till I have time to
build it and then when we had the time the model was unavailable. I think
the longer you stay in this hobby the bigger your collection becomes.
Just look at my web pages and you will see just "some" of the models in
my collection.

from Kell Black <blackk@apsu01.apsu.edu>:
I, too, plead guilty to the charge of collecting, although I REALLY DO
only acquire models I one day hope to build.

One of my chief interests is in looking at how different designers
approach the same problem. I've half a dozen kits of the Spirit of Saint
Louis, and also four or five DC-3's, and every designer approached the
problem differently. Fascinating stuff! Sometimes it appears as though
the designs follow similar national patterns: i.e., fuselages in Polish
models are often built up of sections butted against one another, while
German designed planes seem to favor a smoother, nestled approach. (This
could, however, rest solely with the preferences and budgets of the
respective publishers.) Anyway, the differences make for interesting study.

This section concentrates on the process of printing models yourself, and
building models you've printed. These concerns are common to models that
are distributed in electronic form (like all the free models listed above)
and to models that you've designed yourself. For more on how to design
your own models--that is, how to get to the point where you're ready to print
something---see the Appendices Designing Paper
Models and Maths Primer for the Card Modeler.

from Myles Mandell <Micromodels@yahoo.com>:
The Epson Styus Color 500 prints on plain card stock. The
printer is relatively inexpensive but the ink refills are quite
expensive. I have just purchased an inkjet refill kit but have not yet
had a chance to try it. The Epson Stylus Color Pro while almost twice
as expensive as the 500, prints much faster, but according to the
tech support people at Epson would probably not print on card stock.
Being able to print on card stock was very important to me.

from Myles Mandell <Micromodels@yahoo.com>:
I have now had a chance to try both the black and the color refills.
For the Epson 500 Stylus Color and they are excellent. Epson now has
an even better low end color ink-jet printer for about $200. and I can
heartily recommend getting one since the main draw back was the cost of
the ink-jet refill cartridges. Now with 2nd source refills available
for about 1/30 the cost of OEM cartridge it is a best buy for those who
want to print in color on card-stock.

from Myles Mandell <Micromodels@yahoo.com>:
I have a new Epson Printer 850, I have raved about the
Epson in the past. This new Epson has excellent quality as my old
Epson, but prints about 4 times faster. The cost of cartridges has
never been a problem since I have bought a kit that I use to refill
the original cartridges. This reduces the cost considerably.

from Fred Hirsch <fhirsch@khs.com>:
I would like to recommend the Epson Stylus Color 600. It has a
straight paper path which allows it to feed cardstock without any
problems. It will do 720dpi on regular paper and the print quality
is excellent. I recently printed one of Emil's planes on a Tektronix
color laser and on the Stylus 600, I showed the prints to a couple
people and everyone chose the Stylus printout (I don't nor have I ever
worked for Epson Corp). The best part... I paid about $235.00 for it
at Price Costco.

from Chip Fyn at Fiddlers Green Ltd <chipfyn@quest.net>:
Can't find much fault with our Epson 800. Really intelligent and well
behaved. Good write-ups from the experts.

from Peter Richardson <par@cct.u-net.com>:
I use Apple StyleWriter 2400 to print on 280 micron pulp board with
few problems so long as the page feeder has at least 10 sheets backing
up the one to be printed - this seems to assist the sheet alignment into
the tractor feed - without the backing sheets the page being fed seems
to be picked up asymmetrically on one corner. For most uses when printing
single sheets, this isn't a problem because you can assist the sheet into
the feeder - however for my commercial use I may require batch printing
of up to 30 sheets and need to leave the printer to its own devices.
I print both sides of 280 micron board, and with a little care it is
possible to get good registration front to back - I reckon I can
consistently achieve +/- half a millimetre. With the 2400 I also print
onto the reverse plain side of 250 gsm "Chromolux" glossy surfaced card,
which is the card stock I use for the skins of Hooton AirCraft. This
does require assistance through the printer as the shiny surface slips
on the tractor roller. Light finger pressure on the edge of the card
until it disappears into the printer works OK. I'm sure Apple wouldn't
approve, and it probably shortens the printer life. It is essential
that any printer has a straight a path as possible for the card for
printing heavy stock - conveniently this is true of most of the cheaper
ranges of DTP's (unlike my LaserWriter Pro!) But the best printer news
is the introduction of the ALPS
MD solid ink printers. These are
brilliant - superb resolution and really solid colour, they accept
card stock, even textured materials, replacement cartridges are
inexpensive and they print metallic inks all for £369! And they
have a combined printer/scanner for only £600! I shall be getting
one shortly and would be interested to hear from any users out there.

from Bob Bell <bobbell@portal.connect.ab.ca>:
My HP Laserjet IIP will take card stock of file card thickness quite
easily. This stock is slightly heavier than the paper of Wilhelmshaven
models which is about the limit that my Canon BJC 600 color printer will
take.

from Stephen Brown <cardfaq@bellsouth.net>:
The HP 682C color inkjet printer is spec'd to print on cardstock
up to 110 pounds, and I have had good luck feeding 80 pound
(~216 g/m²) and 67 pound (145 g/m²) cover stock through it.

from Fil Feit <filf@ns.kreative.net>:
I just picked up an HP 890C, to replace my aging HP IIIP laser.
I haven't done extensive testing yet, but I did do two things:
1. printed a colour picture on regular copy paper. It came
out _very_ well. Not photo quality, but, again, it was on regular
copy paper.
2. printed out a card model on heavier stock. I chose the paper
using classic scientific method: it (a) felt about right, for card
stock, and (b) was free. In spite of the curved paper path, it printed
fine, did not wrinkle or fold the paper at all, and looked good enough
to cut. Which I will. Eventually.
The printer isn't as cheap as some of the others mentioned in the
FAQ (eg, the Epsons), but I've been led to believe that it's more
economical with supplies than the Epson (esp. the 600 & 800 which
devour print cartridges), and it's not prone to the head clogging
problems that some Epsons have. Printer cost me US$430.

from David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
I have an HP 690 C and am very pleased with the results. I have used it
to print onto card and it has fed ok and printed without bleeding. The
harder sorts of card seem to be better for ink-jets in general.

from Harry B. Frye, Jr. <xfldengr@email.msn.com>:
The HP Model 720C will handle up 110 lb paper. And it has
photo quality reproduction.

from Peter Ansoff <peter_ansoff@compuserve.com>:
I've just made what seems to be an unfortunate discovery about the
HP 720 printer. I bought it because the advertising copy said that it
printed at 600x600dpi. However, when I printed the Digital Navy
"Admirable" many of the lines were missing. Looking throught the manual
carefully, I found this statement buried in the section on photographs:
"To get best results, scan photographs at 150 or 300 dpi. If you scan
them at a higher speed, you won't improve the print quality, and the
pictures will take longer to print." It appears that, while the
HP 720 can print 600x600, it cannot accurately reproduce an image
that's denser than 300x300.

Nosing around the HP web site, I found that the 720 will only
print 600x300 if standard paper is selected -- to get 600x600 you need
the HP Premium Inkjet setting. I selected this and printed another
Admirable, with no change in the results.

Does any one else have experience with this printer? Am I missing
something? The printer works well at lower resolution -- it did a great
job with Chip's shark.

from Fil Feit <filf@ns.kreative.net>:
I use an 870. I've printed FG, the HEMS chopper, the Yamaha R1, and
others; I like it just fine. Relatively straight paper path; I haven't
had a problem with creasing or curling. It'll take A4 or letter, but I
don't think you can feed anything wider than letter. Ink lasts longer
than most, and it's even pretty OK for printing photos. I don't regret
my choice At All.

from Peter J. Visser <peter@peterjvisser.demon.nl>:
Just got a brand new HP2000C inkjet color printer. It's not cheap,
but it is very good! According to a test in a Dutch computer magazine
it's better quality than the Epson stylus 800, but the HP costs almost
three times as much. But printing (i.e., ink and paper) costs for the
HP are about 30% of the Epson, so if you do a lot of printing, it's not
that expensive at all. And it's fast (compared to my old HP Deskjet
560C, about two minutes for a full color page A4 size), and it can handle
card up to 110 lbs. So depending on your use of the printer I should
advice the HP for large quantities (over 1000 pages a month), and the
Epson for smaller amounts.

from John Lifer, Jr.<jliferjr@yahoo.com>:
I've used (until last month) an HP682c. Ok printer, older model
with limited resolution. Printed a BUNCH of stuff with it with very
few problems. Not a lot of card stock, less than a hundred pages I
would guess. Would jam on this occasionally. I use a HP1120c wide
printer at work. Have printed in two years probably 10 reams of copy
paper, 300 or so overheads a hundred or so pages of card and a ream of
thin onion skin thickness. I've had numerous misfeeds from both the
thin and the thick paper. It feeds regular 20# fine, just doesn't like
other paper. BTW, you can feed card stock thru straight from rear. I
would give this printer a 7 and the 682c an 8 on John's printer scale.
My new personal printer is a HP930c. So far it is a 10 on my scale.
Beautiful print, much bettter than others, feeds (if you select the
right paper on setup) all paper well. The heavy paper setting pulls
paper in at about 1/3 normal speed so it picks it up properly. Great
feature imho!

from David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
I finally went and got myself a new printer to replace my
aging HP Deskjet 690c. I went for a HP Deskjet 930c, mainly as a result of
some rave reviews about how it handled photographs. It
is brilliant for models too. The main difference from the 690 is the
complete lack of dithering - it generates almost completely smooth fills.
General line detail is also much crisper and well-focussed. Tried a test
print of the Digital Navy V108 and the results look like a vector PDF not a
bitmap. I showed my wife a sheet from a HMV ship model and one of mine
coming off the new printer and she could not believe how close they came in
terms of print quality (she still doesn't understand why I make the ship
models but I'm working on that!).
I thoroughly recommend it to anyone - usual disclaimer about not being
connected to HP, etc.

from King Butler <kbutler@mandala.ca>:
What I do with almost all of my models is take the sheets to
a colour copy outfit, have them copy it onto cover stock and build the
copy. You need to find a copy shop with a Canon 700 or 800 - These
copiers will copy onto card and usually match the colours very well.
(Got that idea from Myles.)

from Alan J. Frenkel <mason@mich.com>:
I bought a Canon BJC-6000 recently with a USB kit for my Mac. I'm very
happy, and it promises to be a very good printer. Two very good
features:
1. Individual ink tanks- you can replace only the color that runs low.
2. Large tanks - especially Black.
When I first installed it I was having trouble getting the colors to look
right. I had a fortuitous accident - an installer for an old program totally
wrecked my Mac by installing outdated system files. I did a software restore
and almost can't believe how close colors are to my monitor screen. Some old
software must have been interfering with the driver.

September "Popular Photography" reviewed various printers and liked
the Canon very much. They estimated that it would print 100+ 8x10 color
prints while other printers would be lucky to get 30 on a set of
cartridges. They also said that it was the fastest in their tests.
With single sheet feed you can use up to 143 lb (500 g/m2) or .6mm thick
paper.

from Mike Hungerford<chthulhu@sdccu.net>:
I have the BJC4200, with which I have been quite happy for the
most part. I've had some annoyances with the ink tanks, but as long as
I buy true Canon refills, the quality has been very good, and the
machine is a hell of a lot quieter than my wife's Epson.

One very important consideration for card model printing is the
paper path; it should be as straight as possible, as with the BJC4200
and the Epson Stylus Color 640 (both approx. 30 degrees of bend). The
Hewlett-Packard I'm stuck with at work has both the in and out trays at
the front, requiring the printer to bend the paper a full 180 degrees
around the platen, which causes a lot of jams and misfeeds. I've never
had this problem with my Canon.

The Canon inks, if I remember correctly, are a wax-based system,
and don't seem to be very sensitive to moisture. I've yet to
have a print smear while working with it.

from Louis G Van Winkle <looks-like@juno.com>:
Try to find a copy shop with a Ricoh color copier. They handle 80#
stock without a problem! Some of their models are rated for 110# card.
I have had copies run on 11 x 17, 140# index stock, and that worked just
fine. Sometimes I wonder, what would it take to jam one of their machines?

from Bob Santos <SantMin@aol.com>:
I've had an ALPS for about two years and make all my own decals.
I have also printed paper models using the photo-realistic mode and
they are impressive. However, I have an MD-1000 and it is slow and
I find the HP color printer does a fine job on paper models. I
usually reserve the ALPS for decals in that it not only prints on
decal paper but can also print WHITE (try to get white lettering
any other way) and metallics.

from Karl Guttag <karlg@topher.net>:
This last weekend I experimented with some materials with my
ALPS printer. Here are my subjective results:

ALPS Photo Quality Paper - Excellent very photo like
detail - no dots! This is fairly rugged/resistant to scratches. While
heavier weight than ordinary paper, it will require a backing for any
larger structures.

The image is into the top coating. I'm new at cardmodeling, but
I tried scoring it to make some folds. I did cut through the image
sometimes, but other times it seemed I could make a clean fold without
cutting through the image (maybe with some practice, and the right tool,
it could be done constantly). The "inks" are thermal/wax based and
are totally waterproof.

Gluing may be a problem with the photo paper. The photo surface is
slippery. The super-glues will dissolve the ink and make it run. Rub
on glues and "white" type glues seem to work.

ALPS printing on ALPS paper - This seems to work well, but the
printing has noticeable "dots". I have had problems with even Hammermill
paper with white specks in dark areas. The paper would clearly need
backing and is not as strong as the photo quality paper. An advantage
is that it is cheap.

ALPS is really two printers in one. The photographic mode requires
special papers with coating to receive the sublimation inks. In the
"normal" mode they print wax dots, similar to a ink jet. In the photo
mode you are very limited to the material you can print on but the quality
is excellent. The normal mode gives a great flexibility in printing
materials but the quality is more like ink jet (probably below the
better ink jets) but waterproof.

ALPS Backprint film - While not the detail of photo quality, it
does a good job of capturing the image/ink (as good as the ALPS paper.)
The printing is done on the "glue" side and thus you print a mirror image.
This is a very interesting product. The "film" is held on a much thicker
plastic backing. The image can then be heat transferred (say iron
transferred) to card stock or paper. After the heat transfer the
thicker plastic backing is removed and, the ink is then "sealed" under
a thin plastic coating (much thinner than typical laminating).

The result seems extremely durable. It also has a plastic/shiny
paint look to it. You can score folds without cutting the plastic film.
There is a tendency to curl which can be taken out.

The result on paper is very durable and shiny/plastic. It can be
folded easily. This might be a good material to use for small details
that need to be folded easily. I have successfully transferred it to
paper, posterboard, and wood.

As veterans are probably aware, the posterboard is not a good
stock to use for card modeling as it wrinkles even if scored (but it
was handy at the time). I did find I could score the cardboard
without cutting the image. I found that the image would only stick
well to the shinier side of the posterboard but would bubble up on
the dull side. I will get some 80 weight paper and try again soon.

The print back film without removing the clear plastic backing
may also be used to make windows for buildings. The plastic backing
gives a shiny surface, but the glue/image later is diffuse and would
scatter a backlight (say if one lighted the inside of the building.)
I have ordered some ALPS Clear projector sheets to try for windows as well.

Another thing I briefly experimented with was partially ironing
the image and then peeling the rest off the backing and then ironing it
around a corner in a second step. It seemed to work. While the film
is thin, it is much more durable than typical water slide decal film.

The ALPS printer can print on posterboard directly, but there is
a tendency to get blotches on either side. I am going to try 80 weight
paper and see. ALPS printers need a very smooth surface to print
on due to the thermal transfer process.

I could not find 80# smooth white paper (from experience, only
very smooth paper will work in the ALPS). I got very good results with
Strathmores Smooth Bristol board 100#. I got slighter better results
with the duller side (it was hard to tell but there was a slightly
duller side). It came out almost identical to the ALPS paper, even
when viewed under 8x magnification.

Next I used Spectra Fadeless Artboard. Printing on the shiny/waxy
side worked pretty well, but there were occasional thick streaks with
no ink in dark areas. The dull side worked pretty well, but I think
the Bristol board was better (particularly under magnification). This
board did not have a weight, but it measured about the same thickness
as the Bristol board, but was slightly stiffer (probably from the waxy
coating).

NOTE: A major drawback of using either cardstock for
"photo-cardmodeling" is that when they are scored and folded you get
a "cut" in the image layer.

I also tried out some ALPS transparency material. I'm thinking
about using it for windows. It takes the ink very well (about the same
as the paper). For normal transparencies, one would print on the front
side, but for windows backside printing (by printing the mirror image)
gives a shiny surface. Also, the ALPS software prints "transparencies"
much darker to look better when projected, but for printing windows,
I think it is better to use the "backprint" film option.

Backprint film, without removing the backing is another option
for making windows. It has a diffuse backing which may be desirable if
the building is lit from the inside (so it would blur/even out the
light source).

I also just got some Vinyl that is coated for ALPS printing.
I'm thinking of using it for making awnings, and other "plasticy" objects.

I have tried ALPS "photorealistic" papers. They cost about
one-fourth that of the photo-quality papers. In this mode the printer
prints/dithers at 1200 by 600 pixels per inch. The dots are less
noticable, but I have never been able to get the colors to look good due
to a big color shift (the "normal" and "photoquality" printing match
well without any changes even though they are different processes using
different inks).

After all my experiments, I far and away think that using the
ALPS photo quality paper is the way to go for most parts of a ALPS
printed photo-model. My measurements (10 sheets with a dial caliper)
showed that it is about 60% the thickness of the 100# Bristol board.
I think it is a little stiffer per unit thickness due to the coatings.
Through the Internet it can be had for about $1 a sheet (about the same
as the print back film). The image quality is extremely good and there are
no dot patterns in the final image (I should say that from more than a
foot away few can tell the difference).

I think that the ALPS print back film on paper may be a good
material to form part that have a lot of small folds or small tubes.
The resultant image is very durable yet flexible. It can be scored
and folded without cutting the image. It is a very little bit shinier
than the photo quality paper, but I think it will mix and match ok.

One could consider using the print-back film on 60# to 100#
paper. The print back material costs about the same as photo quality
paper, gives lesser image quality, and requires the extra transfer
step. The heat transfer step is also prone to mistakes, thus making
it more costly (including mistakes). Still I'm glad I experimented
with it and will keep it in mind for other specialty situations.

General comments on printing

from Evan Powles <epowles@peninsula.starway.net.au>:
Anyone have long-term experience of inkjet ink lifetimes? Am I just
paranoid about fading?

from Peter J. Visser <peter@peterjvisser.demon.nl>:
I have some prototypes printed on a HP 560C Deskjet about 3 years
ago. There is not much colour left on the models that were
displayed in a room with lots, but no direct sunlight. The models
in a room on the north (no sunshine at all) are much better, only
the black turned purple.

Also see the Glossary of Paper Terms. For
papers suitable for
very large models, see the section on Macro-models, above.

from Paul M. Bucalo <bucalo@norwich.net>:
Is there a 'perfect' card stock weight to print on for paper models?

from Stephen Brown <cardfaq@bellsouth.net>:
Well, I don't know about perfect, but I can try to put some quantative
figures on it. I've been using 80 pound cover stock (which is what Eric
Sayer Peterson recommends). Initially, I just walked into a print shop
and asked for some; later, when that was running low, I found a big
package at the Dayton Hamvention.

I'm too lazy to cut measured squares of my various stocks and
weigh them on an analytic balance (and I don't want to cut up some of
my models just to weigh the paper), but I took a micrometer to some:

Wilhelmshaven

0.008"

Dover

0.008"

ModelCard

0.008"

(for the card stock)

0.004"

(for parts to be laminated on thicker card)

3"x5" index card

0.007"

Micromodels

0.010"

Kenilworth

0.0085"

80# cover stock

0.011"

'Strawboard'

0.032-0.043"

(various sample of pad backing card, &c.)

Bristol board

0.0045"/ply

(Geoffrey Deason's measurement)

Maly

0.011"

'Poster board'

0.015"

(not very rigid for it's thickness)

JSC

0.009"

Taschen

0.012"

Looks like...

0.009"

(model)

0.060"

(packing card)

LJ

0.012"

(N-scale building)

0.017"

(riverboat)

Sorry for the archaic units, but I've only got the one micrometer.
Sounds like your 65# stock is probably comparable to what Wilhelmshaven,
Modelcard, Dover, JSC, & alia, are using. I think it's fine for the
smaller models, but larger planes and ships will want something heavier
for framing.

The micrometer isn't perfect, as paper varies in density, so that
two samples of the same nominal weight may not measure to the same
thickness, but I think this gives a good rough guide. (Technically, I
measured the caliper, not weight.) Also beware that
the basis size can vary; an 8.5" by 11" sheet of 24# cover stock
is lighter than an 8.5" by 11" sheet of 24# bond. Most of
Europe uses a more rational grams/square meter (gsm) measure,
which is at least comparable. (80# cover stock is about 216 gsm.)

Hmm... that insert in the Looks Like... models is just the right
thickness for the 1.5 mm stock JSC and ModelCard want for laminating
ship frames.

from Louis G Van Winkle <looks-like@juno.com>:
I read with interest your comments and comparisons of papers. I would
agree that 80# card or cover stock is the best. It is commonly available
and most copiers and printers will handle it.

However, there is a world of differences in 80# stocks. Stiffness and
workability are really the most important things, not weight. Some papers
have more bulk, and thus are thicker and stiffer. A fine grain, tightly
compressed paper may weigh the same but lack stiffness. Some of these
very dense papers are available as tag or index stocks. While they are
really heavy weight and stiff, generally, they don't take a bend very
well. Stay away from textured papers (linen, felt, etc.) as they do not
make good photocopies.

Right now I am using Wausau
Papers "Royal Fiber" for my models.
It seems to be readily available from paper stores, and is available in
a variety of weights and colors. It is stiffer than a lot of other 80#
cover stocks and will bend to sharp corners without splitting apart at
the bend.

BTW, that insert in the Looks Like kits also makes a good
cutting board.

[Editor's Note: Louis Van Winkle is the proprietor of
Looks Like... Paper Models
and so speaks with some authority on the choice of papers.]

from Phil Koopman Sr. :
Finally! There is a solution to getting soak-it-in-the-sink prints
from inkjets! A special paper and light card
stock from Japan. This has a clay-like coating giving a mat
finish that's ideal for military models. It comes in light card
and a heavy paper.

What appears to be a clay coat is actually a chemically treated
coating that react with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to "lock" in
the inkjet-printer's dye. Most inkjets use alcochol as the solvent
for the "ink." It wroks great with Canon printers and I'm told
that it's fine with the HPs, too (I haven't personally tested it on
an HP).

You can also work up coloring from a b&W outline print, like
a laser printer, and then color with water colors. A quick spray
with rubbing alcohol and the whole works is now waterproof. If
you do use too much water there can be warping. After spraying wet
the paper and let it dry on a flat surface like a formica counter top.

Where to get this "miracle??" Well, it's as close as your local
Canon COPIER dealer. They now use the same paper for the Canon
ink-jet copier. You can also get it a some copy centers that
use the Canon inkjet copiers. You CAN NOT get it from a computer
dealer (weird isn't it)!
Canon LC-201 LTR Color BJ Paper (8-1/2 x 11) 200 sheets/Box
Canon LC-101 LGL Color BJ Paper (8-1/2 x 14) 200 sheets/Box
Canon CS-101 LTR Color BJ Card Sheet (8-1/2 x 11 ONLY) 50 Sheets/Box

The paper is about 28 pound and the card stock is about 60 pound,
depending on whose paper you compare it to. It's NOT cheap!
Figure about $35.00 for the paper and $50.00 for the card stock.
Haggle! There's actually no set price for retail sales - the
more you buy, the cheaper you can get it.

from James Nunn <jnunn@tstonramp.com>:
I have printed both models from the WEB and PDF files using a HP
660cse and a HP 692 inkjet printer. The print quality leaves a lot
to be desired in that lines are not smooth and the colors are not
correct. I am using 67Lb (145 g/m2) White Vellum Bristal paper and I
think that the paper is part if not all of the problem.

from David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
The easy way to check that the paper is the problem is to print the
models onto proper Inkjet paper and look at the colours/bleeding. Proper
inkjet paper is coated to make it non absorbent or loaded with talc to
soak up the ink before it wicks/bleeds. I would imagine the Bristol card
you are using is too absorbent.

I have an HP690C and find that I get better results if I print
using the "best" option on print setup.

from Chip Fyn at Fiddlers Green Ltd <chipfyn@quest.net>:
Fiddlers Green has always printed on coated cardstock (10PT C1S Cover)
so we've ordered a quantity of 8.5"x11" sheets after finding they work
great in the ink jet printer set on 'Best' or `Photo Quality'. Why not
approach a printer in your area for some coated cardstock--he just might
have a bit left over from a job OR go to a fairly large paper shop. If
they don't have it, they might be able to order a pack (250 sheets) for
you.

Lastly, Jim, if you can get some nice glossy paper to print on,
all it takes is a little spray glue to adhere it to some cardstock you
have around the house like manila folders, magazine covers or even
cereal boxes. Try and figure out the grain of the cardstock with
respect to the bending/curving requirements of the model before you bond.

from Chip Fyn at Fiddlers Green Ltd <chipfyn@quest.net>:
Choosing the right paper is real important when you're downloading
models. Most printers these days will print cardstock up to the most
used #67 and even up to the sturdy #110. With the heavier stock, you
might have to 'help' it through the printer by a gentle (but firm) push.
Office Dept, Staples, Kinkos or stationary shops are the best sources but a
printer will usually have left over cardstock from earlier jobs.
250 sheets might cost $6-$9.

We here at Fiddlers Green use Epson 800 ink jet printers and I like
to use an uncoated but with a somewhat hard surfaced #67 cardstock.
Springhill Index plus is our present favorite. The matte surface of a
softer and more pulpy cardstock gives an interesting 'Polish' looking
model. Kind of like soft sponge. Gloss paper is a disaster for ink jets.
The ink washes all over the place.

67# is used for the curvy jets and newer planes. The #110 is for
boxy old birds. We've discovered if you're printing a model airplane
that's basically green, beige, or yellow, it's absolutely magic to print
on 'ivory' or 'cream' colored cardstock. The colors are noticeably deeper
and more saturated. Blue aeroplane models can be printed on a very
light blue cardstock OR just plain white--brown or camo planes on a
light tan is fantastic. Pink aeroplanes shouldn't be printed at all.
If you can't find colored cardstock, just use the basic white cardstock
and you'll do fine.

Lastly, it's real important to know that you must use
very light colored cardstock. Not like sky blue or canary yellow.
Although I've seen some great little Piper Cubs printed in black on bright
yellow cardstock.

from Roman Detyna <digitalnavy@juno.com>:
1. As good as they look, I've had bad experiences with coated card
stock. The Ochakov model, which you can see on
my site, was printed on
this kind of paper. Around 90lb, with good mechanics but the paper
selectively absorbs inks and you never know what color will show up and
what will disappear. I couldn't get red at all, so I ended up painting
the hull.

2. For most of the models right now I use "plate bristol".
Manufacturer -Renaissance - describes it as "2 ply plate finish
bristol" and I have no idea what it means. Again, the paper is around
100lb, thick (probably the limit of what my printer can handle) and
very good in shaping and forming. The thickness is very important in
my opinion as I tend to discard gluing tubs as often as I can. Thick
paper provides enough gluing surface. Thick paper can also be forced
to take some crazy shapes (see the bow of Takao) - futile exercise
with something thinner.

3. It is interesting how two almost identical looking and "feeling"
papers can differ in many aspects. Lately, I found paper which looked
identical to plate bristol, but was cheaper and I was able to buy it
in 11"x8.5" sheets (the other one is 12"x9"). Unfortunately, it doesn't
work well with super glue - it quickly absorbs the glue and changes
its color.

4. For the parts to be tightly rolled I use regular copy
paper - as thin as I can find. It replicates colors the same way the
card stock does (high quality ink jet papers print beautifully, but
give different colors than card stock.) This way I can achieve nice,
tapered gun barrels - can somebody do it with thick card stock?

For comments on specific printers or paper to use, see the appropriate
sections above.

from Tim Ryan <tlryan@ccia.com>:
This relates only to printing problems from Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Earlier this year I had purchased and downloaded all of the
Fiddler's Green airplanes. The output of my little Canon bubblejet at home
sucked, so I loaded one of the files onto a diskette and took it to work.
The results from an Epson Stylus 1520 at 1440dpi were pretty much the
same... lousy. Thin lines missing, diagonals and curves all had a very
bad case of the "jaggies" or were fuzzy. I was puzzled, to say the
least! These "jaggies" never showed up on the screen, even if I zoomed
in for a closer look.

I then jumped onto the 'net and downloaded/installed the latest
printer drivers for this model... same result. Changed the display
driver... same thing. Then I went to the Adobe site site and started
digging. There I found the solution and now the output (even on my
crappy little printer a home) is just dandy.

If you get an error from Acrobat Reader to the effect that "The
encoding (CMap) specified by a font is missing or corrupted",
you may need to download an
Asian
font pack.

from Mike Hungerford<chthulhu@sdccu.net>:
If you've recently upgraded to the new Acrobat Reader 5.0, you
will have to install the new 5.0 Asian Font Packs to read Japanese,
Korean, and Chinese .PDF files. The Asian font packs for Reader 5.0
are at http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/acrrasianfontpack.html

Also remember to restart your computer after installing the
font packs.

Editor's note: Mike has provided links for the Windows versions
of the font packs. They are also availble for Unix and Macintosh, and
aren't hard to find if you poke around Adobe's WWW and FTP sites some.

Incompatible paper sizes

Models distributed electronically are sometimes distributed in "portable
document format" (PDF) which is easily displayed using Adobe's free Acrobat
Reader software. Unfortunately, PDF is not as portable as one might hope,
because the electronic documents are still tied to a specific paper size,
and the US and the rest of the world use different standard paper sizes.

Paper Size

inches

millimetres

points

US Letter

8.5 x 11

216 x 279

612 x 792

A4

8.27 x 11.7

210 x 297

595 x 842

The US and Canada use the 'letter' size standard, and most of the rest
of the world uses the ISO A4 standard size. A4 is longer than letter, and
letter is wider than A4. Thus, if you print an A4 document on letter size
paper, you'll lose 0.7" or 18 mm off the top or bottom; if you print a letter
size document on A4 paper, you lose 0.23" or 6 mm off the sides. There are
several ways of coping with this. You can use a different paper size available
locally; you can resize the documents; or you can get the correct size paper.

If you need to print A4 documents in the US or Canada, one easy way
is to print them on the readily available 8.5" x 14" legal size paper.
The legal size sheets are larger in all dimensions than A4.
Cardstock in the legal size is not as easy to find as letter size, but
Marco's Stationary and Paper Products
has cardstock in 8.5" x 14" and 11" x 17" sizes.
If you can't get card, you may be able to print
onto regular paper, then photocopy the pattern onto overlapping sheets
of letter size card stock, as long as no single part is bigger than 11"/279 mm.

You can resize the document. Some care is necessary to insure that
the aspect ratio is preserved and that the scaling ratio is the same for
the various pages of a multi-sheet model. Adobe's Acrobat Reader offers a
shrink to fit option when printing, but doesn't give you control of the
scaling (94% should scale A4 documents to letter size sheets.) Some
versions of Acrobat Reader have a rescaling box in the Print
Setup dialog, but this feature fails on the machines I've been able to
try it on. The free software
Ghostview is able to convert
PDF and postscript files to bitmaps, which can then be rescaled in your
favorite graphics editor or viewer. Some care is necessary with this to
avoid unacceptable loss of resolution, and the intermediate bitmap files
are very large. [David Jackson <djackso1@stny.lrun.com> adds:
I have successfully resized Chip's CD models by setting a custom paper
size for the printer to what I need and then checking the fit to page
block in Adobe Reader print options.]

Finally, you can get A4 size paper (nearly all printers and copiers
can handle both letter and A4 size sheets). A4 paper is available in the
US, although you may have to special order it. Again, I don't know if
cardstock is as readily available as regular paper.

To print letter-size documents outside the US, it may be harder.
There is, as far as I know, no readily available "just-larger" size paper
to use. The A3 size is too large for most printers and copiers. The
C4 size is only about 13 mm wider than the letter size, but this is an
envelope size and it may be hard to find paper in this size. The untrimmed
RA4 and SRA4 sizes are probably suitable and may be available through printers;
they are intended for books to be trimmed to A4 size after binding.

Perhaps fortunately, the letter-to-A4 conversion only loses 6 mm of
margin and many documents may have sufficient margin to allow this.
Rescaling letter to A4 should work much like A4 to letter, but the
ratio is 97%.

I don't know of sources, even mail-order, for letter-size paper
and card-stock outside North America.

Designers, you can do all of us a favour. If distribute your
models in PDF format, do your layout as if the paper were 210 x 279 mm
(8.25" x 11"), which will fit on both letter and A4 sheets. This rectangle
should include the appropriate margins for printing, so the area used
for printing will actually be a little smaller. It means wasting
a little bit of the vertical space on an A4 sheet and a little bit of
the width of a letter sheet, but it will make your designs internationally
portable.

from Saul H. Jacobs <saulj4@msn.com>:
I went to one of the local print shops and they told me that they
would cut any weight paper to any size I wanted. I bought a ream, 500
and some sheets, of 75 pound 8 1/2" by 12" card stock for $25.00 US.
I have been using it in my HP 712C and it works great.

File formats

The LH archive file compression format (identified by .lha or .lzh suffixes)
can be handled by WinZip with appropriate external programs.
The freeware program
Power Archiver (only for
Win95/98/NT/2000) handles these formats natively.

Adjusting scale for printed models

from Mike Hungerford<chthulhu@sdccu.net>:
For those of us generating .PDF files with GhostScript and other
freeware/shareware programs, there is a handy little utility at
Glance Software
called "PDCAT.EXE." This thing will concatenate several single-page
.PDF files into one multi-page .PDF file. It runs from the command
prompt in a DOS window, and though there is a DOS-type help display,
it's a bit confusing to figure out (no documentation).

Requires 32-bit Windows and is freeware. Some of the other
tools may be of use, too.

from David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
Re-sizing PDF files has been an ongoing issue for the list and while
reducing has not been too much of an issue, enlarging them has. Well
I have found a solution. Bit fiddly but it works.

Mike Hungerford suggested a tool, above, for joining pdf files
together to form a single pdf file. I have been using this and
discovered one of the parameters is a scaling factor - up or down!

Enlarging you need to re-size the "media box" also, and it
takes values in what seems to be point sizes but I am not sure.

Download the program and try it, it's an MS-DOS command line
program but not hard to work. The following will resize from A4
portrait to A3 portrait:pdcat -r -oP -b -box "0 0 865 1212" -scale 1.41 input.pdf
output.pdf
(assumes pdcat.exe, input.pdf, and output.pdf are all in the same
directory.)

from Xavier Brice <xbrice@ibe.kent.edu>:
I design and build paper models of railroad engines - 1/8" to the
foot. I have two in the works at the moment and would like to paint
them. I'm using thin bristol-board and cartridge paper. How would I
go about painting them? One suggestion I've had is to coat them
with hairspray as a primer and then use enamels. Any better ones?

from Harry B. Frye, Jr. <xfldengr@email.msn.com>:
I have always sprayed my models with a clear, matte finish, acrylic
spray. I find that spraying both sides of the paper before I start
cutting works well. I generally give one coat to the inside and depending
on the coarseness of the paper, one or two coats on the outside. We do
have some humid days here in Missouri.

from Hans Christian Gran <monir-g@online.no>:
I paint my models with enamel paints such as Humbrol not only to
give them the correct appearance, but also to add to the structural
strength and durability.

I want to know the best way to colour these models--I assume
that I need to prepare the card/paper with some sort of spray--what?

Not necessarily, it depends on what paints you used. Clear
acrylic spray does give a good surface to work on, and also has the
added advantage of keeping the card from absorbing atmospheric water
vapor over time. I sprayed a model boat I made with Testor's Dullcote
following assembly, and before adding touch-up paint. That gave the
entire hull a uniform level of reflectivity, which was a real plus as
the kit came with two different types of papers with different sheens.
(This was a pre-colored kit, so I did not need to do major painting.)
For my money, spray the model with clear flat acrylic.

What is the best paint to use--modelling enamels?

I prefer model acrylic paints to enamels. My favorite, Polly-S,
is out of business, but I understand that the Polly-Scale Railroad
colors are being continued. Acrylics dry faster, and seem to give a
flatter finish. Also, Polly-Scale is brushable, so you don't need an
airbrush.

Will the card/paper shrink or buckle when
painted/prepared--i.e. is it best to paint before or after
construction?

Depends on the model. Interior and hard to reach spots have
to be painted beforehand. Some post assembly painting is needed as
touch-up anyway. If the sheets have been sprayed with flat acrylic
the paper will not get waterlogged and shrink or buckle. (My experience
has been that tacky glue still works on paper that has been sprayed
with flat clear.)

from Bob Pounds <Bobp@dynamite.com.au>:
I'd spray completed models with a light shellac mix to seal the
card, then finish with acrylic or enamel paints. First choice would
be acrylic, if for display, enamels if the models are for working use.

from David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
Does anyone out there know of any sites that have colour tables
giving a range of colours as CMYK or RGB or HSB values? I am looking
for either common colours (eg burnt umber) or a more general set of colours.

I appreciate that colours on screen or printed with an ink-jet
look different from offset printed, but I just need some pointers for
getting a starting point for defining colours, doing it by eye is not
working.

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
Relating colour systems and arbitrary colour names can be somewhat
difficult if not impossible. Perhaps a little background would help:

RGB is the colour system used on colour monitors and televisions.
It is called an additive system as white is created by mixing al of the
colours (red, green and blue) at full intensity. This system is used for
projected light.

CMYK is the colour system used for print. It is called a
subtractive system because white is created by the absence of all
colours (cyan, magenta, yellow and black). This system is used for
reflected light which accounts for the opposite method of creating
white. This is simulated on the computer to allow for colour
separation for output.

RGB and CMYK systems contain common colours, but RGB has a
larger gamut (more colours) than CMYK. Therefore there are colours
which can be reproduced using RGB, but the same colour cannot be
reproduced in CMYK.

HSB is a colour system used by artists which is very similar in
structure to the Colour Wheel. This is based on the three aspects of
colour: Hue (actual colour name i.e. green, blue, etc.), Saturation
(intensity of the colour) and Brightness (how much white is in the
colour).

A couple of tricks here:
The colour wheel is used to create the four basic colour schemes:
monochromatic, analogous, complimentary and triadic.

Monochromatic

One colour is used at varying brightnesses
and sometimes intensities.

Analogous

Colours used are separated by 30 degrees on
the wheel

Complimentary

Colours separated by 180 degrees are used.
Combining colours with their compliments can increase the intensity
of the colour.

Tridaic

Colours chosen are separated by 120 degrees on
the wheel. Colours set at the same saturation and brightness will
almost always work together.

Colours separated by 30 degrees are harmonious.
Mixing a colour with its compliment will reduce its saturation.

Colour names such as Burnt Umber are determined by the
manufacturer, do not conform to a particular colour model and will
vary between manufacturers and media. For example, Grumbacher Gouche
burnt umber has a touch more red than the same colour in Liquitex
acrylic colours. For exact colour match, other colour systems are
used such as Pantone (print) and Munsell (plastics manufacture).

To answer your question, there is no table to relate one system to
another reliably since the colour systems are based on very different
concepts and usages (projected vs. reflected light for example). How
does a computer convert between RGB and CMYK? In most applications
designed for CMYK output, the image will take a brief run through the
L*a*b colour system which is system and calibration independent. Print
shops which output to CMYK have calibrated monitors and scanners to
ensure exact colour reproduction. Therefore there is little to no way to
set out an arbitrary relationship between the various systems.

However, for colour mixing on screen, I would recommend the
HSB system as it is the easiest to relate to and create new colours.
Optical colour matching is your best bet unless you have a scanner
and can scan in and sample colours.

from Bill Geoghegan <whg01@attglobal.ne>:
You might try the Web Design Group's RGB color page at
http://www.htmlhelp.com/cgi-bin/color.cgi.
It lists about 128 colors with approximate names and RGB values
in hexadecimal notation. Paint Shop Pro allows hex codes in color
selection, and it would probably work with other paint programs.

Until a week or so ago, Testors had military and railroad
color swatches on their Floquil site. That URL is now dead, and
the color swatches in their paint catalog section don't seem
particularly accurate. The site is being redesigned
(www.testors.com) and the old
info may reappear.

There are color research sites for modelers that have varying
degrees of utility. E.g., a color site for Imperial Japanese Navy
ships and planes at
http://www.j-aircraft.com/research/colormix.htm.
Most of the info is on mixing paints from standard model paint
suppliers. Right now, the best starting point might be the WDG's
RGB page listed at the top.

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
Colour matching is a rather large issue which is dependent primarily
on colour calibration. Calibration for true colour reproduction is a
complex topic, but here it is in a nutshell:

All devices which deal with colour will relate to colour
differently. The scanner will see a colour in one way, the monitor will
interpret it in another way and the printer will print something
completely different. This is due to differences in the way each device
encodes colour values. In order to get every device to communicate
accurately with one another, they must all be calibrated.

To calibrate a device, a target is read in and compared to a
digital file of the target. Any differences are then used to modify the
output of the device to make it in line with the digital file. A
separate device is required for monitors and printers.

There are some software solutions to this issue, but they are
not nearly as accurate. An example is ColourSync for the Macintosh
which ensures that the print will match the appearance on the monitor
based on device profiles encoded into the software. Note that this
changes the print to match the monitor which itself could be off. This
is good for home use but can be disastrous if used for displaying
images intended for professional four-colour process separation.

In addition to these issues, the way the file is created will
also affect the output of the colour. In a vector file, the colour
can be RGB, CMYK, Pantone, Toyo, Focoltone, Munsell, etc. Each one
will print colours differently. In bitmap images, the colours can be
RGB, CMYK, greyscale, duotone, etc. Again, each type of colour mode
will output differently.

Then there's the issue of gamut. Between colour reproduction
systems, the range of colours they are capable of producing are different.
RGB can produce a larger range of colours than CMYK, for example.
This means that a colour can be displayed on an RGB monitor that cannot
be reproduced using a CMYK printer.

Essentially, all this means that exact colour match is possible,
but so complex and such a pain that it is usually limited to professional
print shops which require accurate colour reproduction for their work.

from designer David Hathaway <david@dhathaway.freeserve.co.uk>:
Matching a colour to come out right on your own printer is easy,
but getting it commercially printed looking right...

I thought I was really switched on and in my drawing
tool set all my colours consistently using CMYK codes (professional
designers use CMYK for print output, right?), printed it out and took
it and the output file to show a printer.

First issue - she said my printout was definitely not what it
would look like on an offset litho device and different again from
a digital device. Second issue was the package I was using had taken
the CMYK codes and converted them all to an internal rgb coding and
spat out completely different CMYK codes into the output files (this
meant my 30% grey was now 33% cyan, 33% magenta, 33% yellow and 0%
black!) Third issue was my printer driver, even when I had sorted
this, refused to print grey using black only but used red/yellow/blue
as well. I near gave up, but asked her to make suggestions.

She said that while I could use anything to draw the models I
should only use Corel Draw (which I have) to set colours and give her
Corel Draw files with only CMYK codes, not an exported file in any
other format. We also spent an hour going through her colour swatches
getting CMYK values for just about every colour I may ever need. I am
going to put all of them on a single page and get a proof printed to
see what they will really look like. Tedious and extra cost, but
apparently the only way to guarantee a colour match. The proof would
not be needed if I was going to print on an offset litho, but I intend
to print on a digital press as it is more economic for smaller runs and
the inks are different -> colours may not match.

An alternative perspective on colours

from Mike Krol <shoki2000@earthlink.net>:
I did this plane [Kyushu J7W1 Shinden] without coloring,
and both Steve Bucher and Saul Jacobs asked me why it's done this way.
I gave them the same answer, but it was not a complete answer. I also
started reading Frank-Michael's tips and tricks and it hit me that
probably my way of building paper models is unique.

Let me explain: Building airplanes from paper has its limitations,
everyone knows that. You are always stuck with uncolored edges, and
sticking out ridges in the fuselage or engine cowling. Because I
became kind of annoyed with it, so I switched to my plastic modelers
side (but only for the next steps - I would never fall so low as to
actually build a plastic model). I score all the lines with a dull
knife before I assemble the model. When it is ready, I apply a thin
coat of varnish to protect paper and then smooth all the ridges by
putting small amounts of kid's powder mixed with clear varnish.
When it is dry I sand it with a very fine sand paper and fix the lines if
necessary. The last step is to paint the entire model and put on all the
markings. I do them as decals, which I prepare myself.

The only limitation is that it works best with airplanes from
WW II and earlier. Jets have way too many tiny little signs and
writings to make it practical.

The result? When my friend, a fellow card modeler, saw a model
of my Kawanishi N1K1-J Shiden (which unfortunately I had to leave behind
in Poland) he asked with disgust why I switched back to plastic models!
The airplane lacked all the giveaways of paper construction, ridges and
unpainted edges that it fooled him even from up close.

Now, I know that this is very archaic, but maybe somebody will be
interested in another approach to card modeling.

Wayne Fulton's A few scanning tips
is an extensive site with much useful information about scanners and
scanning.

from Saul H. Jacobs <saulj4@msn.com>:
I have been having some problems with my scanner reproducing some
of the colors from my card models accurately. My scanner came with
Twain 32 which was very difficult for me to use to match the colors
on the prints. I finally gave up today and went out and bought the
HP3200C scanner which uses what HP calls Intelligent Technology. They
do not use Twain to scan but have there own scanning program which
takes care of matching the colors for you. I did my first couple of
models tonight and was able to accurately reproduce colors that I never
could with the old system. At $99.95 this scanner is a heck of a deal
and does a beautiful job on scanning card models.

from Jim "Knobby" Walsh <Member8763@aol.com>:
I recently purchased an HP ScanJet 3200C for $99.00 at Staples.
The HP technology is so friendly in all ways and the scans are right on.
I use it for newsletters and photo reproduction (as well as reproducing
intricate model parts I feel I will mess up). It has a multitude of
options regarding the many variations of color, hue, intensity, etc.
PCComputing rates as the best in the low price end. For my money, it is.

from Alan J. Frenkel <mason@mich.com>:
I have an Epson Perfection 600 Scanner which has a color management
system by Kodak. This model is discontinued, but newer Epson models are
available for both PC and Mac. Mine is used on my old Mac, but it came
with a SCSI card that would attach it to any PC with an open slot.

I've had terrific results. I'm working on my long-delayed
web page
with pictures of Dayton [1999] that I scanned at 72 dpi for the web
and simply sharpened (Unsharp Mask) in Photshop LE. The colors are
very nice. I can't say, however, that I got such a wonderful price!
Scanning printed material (usually halftone screens) requires you to
use your "descreening" filter to avoid Moire patterns in the output.

from Karl Guttag <karlg@topher.net>:
Is there a particular "descreening" filter that someone has
found works well?

My procedure using Photoshop is to do a Gaussian Blur to
get ride of the Moire (I manually adjust the filter width to just
get ride of the patterning) followed by an Unsharp Mask to gain
back a little sharpness. It works remarkably well, but I would
always like to find a better way.

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
Regarding moire removal:
The Despeckle filter (Filters menu - Noise Submenu - Despeckle) in
Photoshop is designed to remove the moire pattern, but will result in
blurring the image. Use Unsharp Mask to bring some of the detail back.

Also check your scanner's software. Many scanning packages have
auto-descreen functions, but the scan target has to be set to the
appropriate halftone screen ruling. This is the measurement of the number
of halftone dots along a line within one inch. This is usually about 133
l.p.i. for magazines, books are between 150 and 200 l.p.i., and Newspapers
are the lowest at about 85 l.p.i.

In a colour image, moire is more pronounced as there are four
different screen angles to contend with: one for each of cyan, magenta,
yellow and black. To remove moire in a colour Photoshop image, convert
the image to CMYK using the Mode submenu in the Image menu. Open the
channels palette and click on one of the cyan, magenta or black channels
to display that channel alone. Go through each channel and look for
the highest degree of moire. Once it is decided, click that channel
to make it active and apply the Despeckle filter. You may have to
apply the filter on more than one channel.

This way, the other channels are left at their original sharpness.
If the individual channels are not showing in greyscale, deselect the
Show Channels in Colour option in the Prefereces dialog.

from Todd Anderson <bigtodd@tarheel.net>:
With the latest talk of scanning models i have a question. I have
a Geli kit i would like to build, but the colors on this model are not
how I envision this plane would have looked. Can I scan this model and
then change the color scheme in corel draw or paint shop pro with ease
or am I kidding myself?

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
A scanned image could be changed relatively easily in a bitmap editing
program (I'm assuming Paint Shop Pro is bitmap based - most paint programs
are). I say relatively since it is usually based on selecting areas of the
image and applying new colours. Depending upon the tools you have for
making selections, this can be quite simple, if often tedious on complex
images.

A scan can't be easily changed in Corel Draw since it is a vector
based program and would require tracing or converting to vectors/paths
(bad thing - never do this) to be editable.

Photoshop has some functions which will selectively replace
colours as well as selection methods based on tone, hue, saturation
and other aspects of colour which can make it easier to select the
areas. I don't know if there are similar features in your software,
but you might want to look for them.

from Todd Anderson <bigtodd@tarheel.net>:
And if so at what dpi would you scan it in at?

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
Depending upon the amount of scaling, if any, the scan resolution (DPI)
should be just a little bit higher than the output resolution (DPI of the
printer). Multiply this by the decimal version of the scale percentage (1.5
for 150%) and this will give you the scan resoution.

from Saul H. Jacobs <saulj4@msn.com>:
I got a copy of Photo Shop 3.0 from our Graphics Arts department
and have been doing quite a bit of experimenting with it. I found that
replacing a color using the fill command is easy to do. Trying to draw
new color breaks into the scan is where I have a problem. As long as
the color separation is marked on the scan changing the color is no
problem but sometimes it can be tedious. My HP712C prints out at 300
dpi so that is what I scan the models in at and when I am done I save
them in JPEG format. So far it seems to be working very well on most
models. There are some that have given me problems, especially those
with a shiny coating. Since most Geli I have seen have this shiny
coating you may have to replace all the colors as what you replace may
not match up with the scan.

from Robin Day <rday@pangea.ca>:
Something you might try when scanning glossy prints: place tracing
paper or wax paper between the image and the scanning bed. This
removes the reflectiveness of the glossy coating while still revealing
enough of the image to make a good scan.

Send e-mail to
cardfaq@bellsouth.net.
Include contact information, a description of your models, some history
of your firm, a URL for your web page, if you have one, and, for sellers,
information on payment terms and shipping costs. You may include any
other information you feel is relevant, but please do not send file
attachments or pictures. If you wish to send samples, pictures, or
other files, please contact me in advance and we can arrange for you
to deliver them by ftp or e-mail as appropriate.

Saul Jacobs' Paper/Card
Model Page is in a position to offer a limited amount of web space to
designers and dealers for the purpose of publicizing new or special offers.
See his page for details.

In keeping with its non-commercial and informational nature, this
FAQ has relatively few graphics or pictures and no banners. Believe it
or not, the FAQ serves more than 100 MB/day of data, which is mostly
text. Adding a lot of pictures could easily run the risk of overloading
the server.

Occasional exceptions are made when pictures or graphics are
used to illustrate particular design techniques or construction reviews.
If you wish to suggest pictures for inclusion, or provide pictures to
accompany your review in the FAQ, please contact me in advance and we
can arrange for you to deliver them by ftp or e-mail as appropriate.

Saul Jacobs' Paper/Card
Model Page also provides web space for illustrated construction reviews
and articles. See his page for details.

If you just want space to put up pictures of your models, either
as a hobbyist or commercially, there are many places where you can find
web space for free. There is always a catch, of course, usually some
advertising content, but this way you retain editorial control and copyright
for your material. I don't endorse any particular option, but here
are some suggestions:

from David Jackson <djackso1@stny.lrun.com>:
I was recently talking with Peter about options I could use since
I am running short of space on my home page. He put me on to
http://www.tripod.com/.
You can set up your own 11M page free! (Well, you do
have to put up with their banner advertising.) But it is a solution as
to where you can upload your photos and/or models without disturbing Saul.
Registration is easy and their QuickPage procedure allows you to set up
quickly. They also have advanced procedures for computer gurus.

Another possibility is
http://www.bigstep.com/.
It is business oriented but still free. Set up is a little restricted
and confusing. I have not tried uploading pictures (or ZIPs) yet so I
cannot comment on capability or quality.

Finally, if you are only concerned about photos try
http://www.photopoint.com/.
I use this for photos for Ebay auctions. I do not recommend this for
downloadable stuff as they do some diddling and resizing.

For the first four years it existed, the Card Modeling FAQ lived on
a server at The Ohio State University. The statistics available on this
server were limited, but early in 1998 this page became one of the most
frequently accessed pages on it, getting about 60-70 hits/day. By early
1999, it seemed to plateau at around 200-250 hits/day for the top level
page of the FAQ and seemed to hold steady there.

In November 2000, the FAQ moved to its own domain, on a server
where more detailed statistics are available. It has not been there
long enough for patterns of use to be evident.