How to Take Care Of Your Skin In Your 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50s

Everyone tells you you're going to get older. But they're not very specific. Let's face it, we expect to wind up with creaky knees and gray hair, but the subtler, decade-to-decade evolution of our bodies can come as a surprise. Especially when the body part in question is our largest organ: the skin.

Aging skin isn't just about wrinkles. Sure, those are coming, but they're a result of complex factors and changes in the underlying structure of how we're put together. Our skin is living and refreshing itself, which has advantages that last lifelong. Thing is, that renewal eventually slows down, and what concerns you in your 20s is replaced by something else in your 30s, and something completely different after that. Even worse, some of the tactics we embrace to keep our bodies young can have a negative effect on the skin that’s covering us.

We spoke to Dr. Hooman Khorasani, chief of dermatologic and cosmetic surgery at Mount Sinai's Icahn School of Medicine in New York. He took us through the core skin concerns that go with each decade of a man’s life, and how to tackle each one, from the clogged pores to the unsightly surprises down the road.

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Your 20s: A testosterone-fueled grease fest

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You probably had acne as a teen. (And if you were lucky you knew these tricks to get rid of it.) But it may continue into your first decade as an adult—thanks in part to testosterone. "In your 20s, the biggest problem, which is both a blessing and a curse, is testosterone," says Dr. Khorasani. Testosterone acts on your sebaceous glands—the oil-producing ones—under your skin, he says.

You need these facial oils. They protect your skin against pollutants and keep it moisturized. But when your pores get clogged, they can't drain the sebaceous material. That’s when bacteria take root and you break out. The key here: Exfoliate and moisturize. "A lot of young guys are very active, and sweating is a great exfoliant," Dr. Khorasani says.

Aside from getting regular exercise (we suggest these 6 fat-burning moves), you might also consider getting a facial brush like the Clarisonic Mia ($129, Buy It Here) to use about twice a week. Balance those facial scrubs with a moisturizer that fits the natural oiliness of your skin—for most guys that's a light, water-based lotion. Dr. Khorasani recommends Cerave (12-oz. Moisturizing Lotion, $13, Buy It Here).

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Your 30s: UV radiation patrol

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You should be wearing SPF in the sun no matter how old you are. (We say this all the time. We really mean it.) But in your 30s, your need for sun protection starts to hit close to home. Why? Because you start to lose your skin's natural collagen and hyaluronic acid.

You've probably heard of the first one. Collagen is the building block of your skin, keeping things toned and taut. Hyaluronic acid keeps your skin full and lifted. "It's like the icing in the middle of the cake," Dr. Khorasani says. "The reason little babies have plump cheeks is because they have a lot of hyaluronic acid." UV radiation damages both, which can make your skin start to sag and droop. Choose a sunscreen you'll actually use, and stick with it.

Dr. Khorasani likes the SPF lotion from EltaMD (1.7-oz. UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 Tinted, $35, Buy It Here) because it rubs in easily, and is subtly tinted to avoid the ghostly whiteness of some sunscreens. "Wrinkling, textural issues, sun spots—a lot of this stuff can be prevented if you protect yourself," he says.

Your 40s: The road to gauntness

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"As guys, we think we're in our 20s until 39 comes," Dr. Khorasani says. "Then we're like, wow, I'm actually getting older." Why is that? Because the aging of your skin has gone a layer deeper. If your 30s were about the elastic fibers on the surface, your 40s are about the ligaments underneath. The ones that attach your skin to layers of bone and muscles. As they loosen, you see the effects of gravity.

You might see the effects more if you've chosen this moment to get in shape. You get your body fat to a record low, and suddenly your face looks gaunt. Or, as Dr. Khorasani puts it, "It's hard to be in your 40s and have both a six pack and full cheeks."

What do you do? Balance your workouts. Eat well. Get rest. Stay hydrated. Beyond that, your options tend to be more cosmetic. Fillers like Juvederm and Sculptra can add fullness and stimulate collagen production. Maybe you'd never go that far, but that celeb you want to look like? He already has. "When you see actors that have sculpted bodies and also beautiful plump faces..." he says. "Some people are blessed genetically, but for most that's not possible."

Your 50s: Uninvited visitors

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In your 50s and beyond, the surface of your skin may play host to unwelcome surprises. "What happens in your 50s," Dr. Khorasani says, "is you start having growths."

Growths like seborrheic keratoses, little brown papules that look almost like they were pasted on. Then there are skin tags, which come from friction and are common in folds of armpits or necks. Good news is, these aren't usually dangerous, and you can get them removed.

One thing you should worry about? Skin cancer. "The most common type is basal cell carcinoma," Dr. Khorasani says. They look like a pimple that doesn't go away, but shinier than your average zit. Fortunately, these are usually the least dangerous. You have to remove them, but they rarely spread.

Second most common, and slightly more dangerous, is squamous cell carcinoma. After that is melanoma, the rarest of the three but the most likely to grow and spread. Learn to recognize exactly what cancer looks like, and see a dermatologist about any suspicious growths. Catch it early and get the right treatment, and your skin has many good years to come.

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