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Could internships replace fashion degrees?

I always planned to go to university to do photography,” says Ryan Saradjola, a London-based photographer. Despite considering himself not to be very academic, he persevered through college, building a portfolio that landed him a place at the prestigious London College of Fashion (LCF). But after a year at LCF, Saradjola opted out of higher education entirely. Offered the opportunity to work alongside the famous fashion photographer Rankin, he took the leap. “It was an amazing experience,” he says. “I learned so much from that year and a half. Working with his clients, seeing how he worked – the whole process was eye-opening.”

Saradjola’s hands-on approach led him to further internships, studio work and assisting opportunities. But while industry experience was the foundation of Saradjola’s career, he concedes that it’s not the right route for everyone. “I always wanted to do more hands-on work and get involved straight away, but other people need more time in the studio,” he says.

With nearly half of all young people going to university, it’s clear that for many, it is still a vital part of their creative education. But with the growth in the student population comes academic inflation. Jobs list having a degree as an entry requirement, yet in reality, a degree alone is not a sufficient qualification for many “entry level” jobs. Over a quarter of university graduates have done an unpaid internship in order to “get a foot in the door”, according to the Sutton Trust – and 86% of arts internships are unpaid.

“The issue we have is that there are so many courses – so many graduates – that it’s really hard for employers to identify the ones that are really good and proactive,” says Lesley Peacock, a senior fashion lecturer at Liverpool John Moores University. “If a company advertises an internship, they are awash with applications.”

Some companies are wise to the necessity of internships to bulk up graduates’ CVs. Some take advantage of the abundance of free labour at their disposal, occupying a grey area where employment laws are concerned. As one fashion marketing student currently undertaking a “sandwich year” at a luxury fashion brand says: “I was just rearranging store cupboards, scanning in returns, doing really menial work. And if I ever took a day off, all hell would break loose. They were understaffed so they were using us interns to get the stuff done that nobody else wanted to do.” With only basic expenses covered sporadically, the student was advised to leave the company after explaining they simply couldn’t afford to pay rent in London anymore.

Graduate Helena’s experience in fashion publishing was similar. “There were three other girls interning at the magazine,” she says. “They would get a fresh batch of interns every four weeks. We would be in a tiny little fashion cupboard surrounded by endless samples and returns. It was a lot of work and it made me realise that the magazine couldn’t survive without interns.”

More than ever, students fear for their job prospects and are willing to stretch themselves to gain the contacts they need to progress within the industry. Much like fashion itself, the landscape is varied. Some students return with stories of mistreatment and exploitation. Others recall diligent mentors and invaluable insider experience. But a lack of pay is the common thread, and that fosters an environment which welcomes those with the financial means to work for free and spurns those without.

Could saving on tuition fees and going straight into industry be the solution? While some might be able to secure an internship without a degree – subject to hard work and financial sacrifice – many more would struggle. As Peacock says: “For the 15 years that I’ve worked across textiles, fashion communication and fashion design, all of the graduates that have done really well undertook placements and internships.”

Sophie BensonSource: The Guardian

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