Overview

Aiguille des Grands Charmoz is an incredible pinnacle located in the Aiguilles de Chamonix. It's placed to the west of Mer de Glace, between Aiguille de la Republique (NE) and Aiguille du Grépon (S). Other near glaciers are: Glacier de la Thendia (N), Glacier de Trélaporte (E) and Glacier des Nantillons (W). The narrow crest of this peak is generally traversed, more often than not in conjunction with the Grépon. Some of the best routes in the Aiguilles de Chamonix, on both rock and ice, lie on its various flanks and ridges.

W face
This splendid wall has many finest routes but some of them were destroyed in 1980 by the partial collapse of the central pillar. The continuity of the face is unfortunately broken at two-thirds height by a zone of easy terraces by wich it's possible to effect and escape (to the right) into the Charmoz-Grépon Couloir. There are only two independent finishes on the final wall and that taken by the Desmaison route is rarely done. The start of the routes can be reached from Plan de l'Aiguille in 1 h 30 min.

Getting There

Chamonix-Mont Blanc is the base of the mountain. It's placed between three bordiers, France, Italy and Switzerland.

Airports and roads

Autoroute Blanche E25-A40 is the expressway for reaching the town. Because of the Mont Blanc Tunnel, Chamonix is near the big central europe cities (Geneva, Lyon, Turin...) All of them have international airports.

It's free for the owners of carte d'hôte, it goes from Servoz to Le Tour.

Red Tape

It could be seasonal closures because of the bad weather but there is no red tape.

When To Climb

The best season is from July to August. June and September ascentes can be risky depending on the weather conditions, consult the weather forecast at Maison de la Montagne (Chamonix) before your climb. Winter ascents are posible but dangerous.

Do "click" on Weather when here for the Chamonix Valley and Mont Blanc Area Weather Forecast

Chalet Austria
A small and disused wooden hut for those requiring a "comfortable" bivouac free of charge.

Refuge d'Envers des Aiguilles (2.523 m)
CAF, 46 beds, warden, restaurant, no phone. Situated at the base of the SE ridge of the Tour Verte below Aiguille de Roc. 2 h 30 min from Montenvers. When at L'Angle continue up the right side of the glacier wich is fairly flat and waymarked. Leave the glacier at the foot of the N spur of the Tête de Trélaporte (yellow paint flashes) and climb ladders to reach a good path that traverses left below the Trélaporte glacier. Go round the SE ridge of the Aiguille de Roc and zig-zag steeply up to the hut. In winter the best method is to start from the Midi Téléphérique Station. Descend Vallée Blanche, Géant icefall... Until roughly level with the hut. Reach the moraine on the left and from its top go diagonally up right (avalanche potential; path in summer) to the hut.