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Fresh Bites: How to get the most out of labour-intensive artichokes

They're a pain to prepare, but the heart hidden under the leaves makes for a delicious snack or meal.

You can cook a few artichokes at a time and store them in a plastic bag in the fridge, ready to reheat for a minute in the microwave when you need them. (Patrick Tregenza)

You can enjoy fresh, healthy California artichokes now before the fall crop of Ontario babies.

By Cynthia DavidSpecial to the Star

Wed., April 13, 2016

They’re big, they’re beautiful and they’re a pain to prepare. Why bother? Because artichokes are a rite of spring, and because the meaty, mineral-rich heart hidden deep within their armoured leaves make it (almost) worth the effort.

Of course, as soon as I decided to write about this edible thistle I couldn’t find any medium-sized chokes to cook. I did find huge green globes, the type you cook and eat by dipping the end of each leaf in sauce then scraping it between your teeth to extract the bump of tender, nutty-tasting pulp.

Puzzled, I called Ocean Mist in Castroville, Calif., artichoke capital of the world. Senior sales manager Bob Polovneff confirmed that, yes, ’tis peak season for artichokes, but said the crop was delayed until the end of March and it was so hot the unruly perennials sent up more jumbo chokes than usual.

The good news, he says, is that trucks loaded with medium-sized chokes have just arrived in Toronto and we should see more of all sizes over the next month, maybe even a few no-fuss baby chokes to shave into salad.

Article Continued Below

Polovneff recommends cooking a few artichokes at a time and storing in a plastic bag in the fridge, ready to reheat for a minute in the microwave. Serve large ones with your choice of dip, from salsa to olive-oil balsamic.

Bake, steam, boil or microwave until base is tender when pierced with a knife.

Serve whole, letting guests pluck and dip their own leaves, or remove large leaves and pile around a dish of dip. Draw a leaf through your teeth to eat the nubble of pulp.

When you reach the choke, remove the pale, spiky leaves tinged with violet and scrape off the layer of silk beneath to reveal your prize — the grey-green heart. Cut into pieces and dip.

Medium artichokes:

Snap off squeaky, leathery green outer leaves into a big bowl (discard) until you reach the thin, green-yellow inner leaves.

Discard brown end of stem and peel the rest — it’s a delicious extension of the heart.

Rub with half a lemon as you work to prevent browning.

With serrated knife, cut off top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of cone.

Cut around the cream-coloured base with paring knife to remove all dark green bits. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise. Remove layer of fluff where it meets the heart and pull out tough inner leaves.

Cook, then use in pasta, salads and pizza, grilled vegetable kebabs, etc.

Steam: Bring 2 inches (5 cm) water to a simmer in large pot. Fit with steamer basket, place trimmed artichokes inside. Cover and steam until hearts are tender when pierced with a knife or leaves pull out easily, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Microwave: Remove stem from 2 large artichokes and place stem-up in baking dish with 1/4 cup (60 mL) water. Cover with lid or plastic wrap and cook on High about 10 minutes or until cake tester goes through base easily without resistance. Let rest 4 minutes. Smaller chokes will take less time. Do not overcook.

To prepare artichokes, snap off dark green outer leaves until you reach the tender green-yellow leaves. With serrated knife, cut off top inch (2.5 cm) of cone and remove brown part of stem. As you work, rub cut ends with lemon to prevent browning.

Cut around base with paring knife to remove all dark green bits; peel stem. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise. Cut out fluffy layer where it meets the heart and pull out spiky inner leaves. Rub pesto all over artichoke halves and place in a single layer in tomato mixture.

To maintain colour and keep submerged, cover with a plate slightly smaller than the pot.

Simmer 1 hour, turning once, until hearts are fork-tender and sauce is thick. Transfer to a serving dish, spooning sauce over top.

Makes four servings.

Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food and travel writer who blogs at cynthia-david.com

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