| Season = Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

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| Province = Western Cape

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| Area = Cape Town

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== Season ==

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Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

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== Rock ==

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Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.

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37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

== Gear ==

== Gear ==

Line 16:

Line 22:

There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.

There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. <b>NB:</b> Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.

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== Getting there ==

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== How to get there ==

Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

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<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.<br/>

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<b>East side:</b> At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.<br/>

<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

<b>West side:</b> From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

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= Map =

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]

[[Image:Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space2.jpg]]

Line 30:

Line 37:

<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/>

<b>Spinning Jenny</b> 20/6b FA Julian Fisher<br/>

The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).

The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).

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=== The Back of the Boatyard ===

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[[image:KalkBayDrunkenMaster.jpg|360x480px]]

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There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.<br/>

<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

<b>1. Unnamed</b> 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

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The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

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The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

<b>2. Arete</b> 18

<b>2. Arete</b> 18

Line 96:

Line 118:

<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16

<b>6. Juggy line right of thin face</b> 16

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<b>Espionage</b> 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.

<b>2c. Lurchin' to the Left</b> 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)

Gear

Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

The climbing

This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

New Route Development (Bolting)

There is potential for a few more high quality lines at the crags. Bolting is strictly only allowed with a special permit, contact the Rock Climbing subcommitte of the Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Cape Town section to apply for this permit. Only certain of the potential lines have been pre-approved for bolting (contact Brent Jennings at the MCSA or Greg Hart for details), all other lines are to be left unbolted - you can climb these by setting up a top-rope. NB: Strictly no further bolting is allowed on the lower tier crags, this is an archeological site.

How to get there

Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptune's cove.West side: From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

Map

Topos / Routes

Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).

The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags

The Boatyard

Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).

The Back of the Boatyard

There are some old top anchors and a single bolt right on top of the wall. Origins unknown.1. The Drunken Master 25/7a+ (trad) FA Phlip Olivier Jan2012
Climbs the steep crack to the right of the arête. Sangbag if you don't bring your boxing gloves.2. Project (trad) will go at around 27/28 if you can find someone willing to belay you.
Start as for Drunken Master. After the crux, move left to top out over the arête.

Neptune's Cove

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart 2005

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans 1996

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart 2005

4. Salami 27/7b+ FA Guy Holwill 2000

Right Sector

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptune's Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2c. Lurchin' to the Left 23/6c+ (mixed line) FA? Phlip Olivier. Start as for Lurchin' Urchin. At second bolt traverse left to vertical slots. These slots and some pockets take you straight up to end just left of chains. Couple of small cams/nuts will do the trick. (Note: this line has probably been done before. Now its been documented)