I cut 2 pieces of wire and a piece NON 0.20, three millimeters greater than the "clean" length.I used an e 2,200 MF capacitor to 63 V. Charging him with about 30 V.Discharge the capacitor through wires (with and without resistance) touching the edges. Created at the point spark, wires melted at this point, and joined quite well.

I'm going to try building one with a Disposable Camera Flash Circuit. I got the idea from member mre777. Thanks buddy. It's a cheap build and puts out over 300 Volts. Zzzzzzzzap! May have to tone it down. Man this thing could killa.Got it on my bench almost together. I'll try tomorrow to finish it.

Hi, I am new to the forum, from Croatian, bad English ... I do welding wire, commissioned by the module, I would ask, how-on 4.2 V battery module can be activated when it is the minimum input voltage of 4.5 V ?, I ga I use with 30V, electrolytic capacitor, which is better for this voltage, 1000mF/50V or 2200mF/50V?, which specifically battery use, and give just one or two in the series? ... lots of questions, I hope you will not be a problem to answer, thanks in advance...

Hi, I am new to the forum, from Croatian, bad English ... I do welding wire, commissioned by the module, I would ask, how-on 4.2 V battery module can be activated when it is the minimum input voltage of 4.5 V ?, I ga I use with 30V, electrolytic capacitor, which is better for this voltage, 1000mF/50V or 2200mF/50V?, which specifically battery use, and give just one or two in the series? ... lots of questions, I hope you will not be a problem to answer, thanks in advance...

Hi Frenk and welcome to the forum.You will need two batteries in series for the module.Diver mentions two different caps. 1000uF and 2200uF. In the photo it is a 1000uF. I would try each one and see which one works best. The voltage rating of the caps should be higher than the output of the module. Do not use a 30v cap if you are outputting 30v or more. 50v or higher should be used.

The voltage to weld different gauge wires are as shown in the post:27 Volts for wires 0.13 - 0.1631 Volts for wires 0.17 - 0.1835 Volts for wires 0.2 - 0.2341 Volts for thicker wireThis may vary for you and it is something that you will have to determine by trying it out for yourself.

There is a part # YH11053A on the 60v board. I have the 42v board and the part # is YH11053B. The diff is A & B.If you look at your 60v link and scroll to the last picture, you will see a difference in the board. There is an additional Cap.

I would like to say first, I am NOT using this type of welder. I am using the Flash Camera Mod.

There is NO need for a large battery. A small 10440, 14500 or what ever you have will do. You are only charging a capacitor. The welding is done w/ an arc from the cap and not a continuous output voltage. Avoid triggering the module when applying the leads for welding. You WILL damage the module.

Hi, I am new to the forum, from Croatian, bad English ... I do welding wire, commissioned by the module, I would ask, how-on 4.2 V battery module can be activated when it is the minimum input voltage of 4.5 V ?, I ga I use with 30V, electrolytic capacitor, which is better for this voltage, 1000mF/50V or 2200mF/50V?, which specifically battery use, and give just one or two in the series? ... lots of questions, I hope you will not be a problem to answer, thanks in advance...

Well, I finally managed to put together my welding machine, it works well but I have one problem: every time one wire welds, I have to switch off and restart, it seems to me that something needs to be bridged with a diode or something, please support and help, tnx

I may not be well connected the switch and button, a switch in series with the battery and switch IN, and the key is in series with the electrolytic capacitor and go on out, I think you need to switch and go to the key series on IN and OUT on the electrolyte, accurate ?

I may not be well connected the switch and button, a switch in series with the battery and switch IN, and the key is in series with the electrolytic capacitor and go on out, I think you need to switch and go to the key series on IN and OUT on the electrolyte, accurate ?

Frenk,I'm not familiar with the module that you used. I have one but haven't used it yet. Maybe bapgood can help. He built one with a similar module the LM2577.I'm pretty sure that they no longer use a diode and put the PB switch on the output with a 470 ohm resistor. Try to PM him.Personally I think a resistor at the output is a good idea because when you are welding, you are putting a short across the output which can damage the module if the resistor was not there.

I've just joined so with the same module, except battery-2x3, 7V in series, capacitor 1000mF/50V without resistor / add I /, the problem is that after every welding must click the switch OFF-ON to continue to brew it again .. . why?

I've just joined so with the same module, except battery-2x3, 7V in series, capacitor 1000mF/50V without resistor / add I /, the problem is that after every welding must click the switch OFF-ON to continue to brew it again .. . why?

You are correct. I just looked at the specs and see Input voltage :4.5-32V so two batts in series will do."GSA's" drawing calls for a 1000uF but "bapgood" up his to 4700uF. If it welds good with a 1000uF then leave it be.

Do you have the pushbutton in series in the output? This should isolate a direct short across the module output which may shut down the module due to thermal overload or possibly a short protection which would then need a reset by shutting the module off then on.Also DO NOT hold the PB when welding.

Yes, I have a PB at the exit, I just realized that this is happening due to the battery with PCB, PCB now I downloaded, I tried to ... 1 battery for up to 32 volts and do it well, especially with bigger capacity capacitors ... crazy more-I do not know where I stood and where to start ... hehe, now has one less problem for you:to the AC / DC adapter 5V simplest reduced to 4.2 V?BTW. I know that to bother you but I see that you are very professional and will help you, congratulations ... I was in Greece before 20-odd years old, keen ... beautiful country ...

I would caution the use of USB directly powering these boards. Some have blown the 3A fuse on the board input using batteries. This may damage a computer USB circuit which has a current limit of 500mA for a USB 2.0. USB 3.0 has a current limit of 900mA. Wall plug USB's come in 200mA, 500mA and 2A.

You have to consider other USB devices on a PC that are in use by adding up each USB powered devices used.

I had already determined that I wouldn't risk powering the welder with the computer USB. I have a 200mA USB wall plug that I planned on using, but if you think batteries would be better, it's not a big deal to change the power source. The step-up module I'm using has a minimum 4.3V input, so I would need to serial 2 18650's for 7.4V or, perhaps, go with a 9V bat. I don't know how to actually figure it, but I understand that if I decrease the input-output differential the amps get boosted up. I don't know at what point it starts to get dangerous and I want to really avoid the potential of getting a significant accidental zapping myself. BTW, I know the fuse needs to be 3A, but what other specs should I be looking for? I'm a very experienced vaper, but pretty much a noob, as I'm sure you can tell, when it comes to all this electronic/electrical circuitry. I don't want to be too much of a bother, but I really appreciate picking your brain.

If you are using the LM2577 the input amperage is 3A max so a USB can not handle it. The input voltage is 3v - 34v or 3.5v - 35v so a single 3.7v battery can be used. If max input to the board is 3A, I would use a 5 or 6A fuse.Your 52v output board would require 2 series batteries as you stated. A 9v battery can not deliver the amperage needed.