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Got a Streamlight flashlight with a tape switch that mounts on a 4” segment of M-LOK rail from Bravo Company. Installed the light on the right side (3 o’clock) and put the tape switch on the top (12 o’clock) so I could activate it with my left thumb while holding the carbine.

Went to the range to zero my MRO and got it just about dialed in when the section of rail with the tape switch rail came loose. Removed it and the flashlight, then shot again and was way off from the almost zero. Checked that the MRO was not loose. Went to put the section of the rail back in place and realized the M-LOK screws hit and slightly depressed the barrel. There were small scratches on the top of the barrel from the M-LOK screws. The barrel is not centered in the handguard but higher and close to the 12 o’clock position if looking at it end on. From the side one can also see there is not much room between the underside of the hand guard and the top of the barrel.

It appears the location hand guard over the barrel precludes use of the top set of M-LOK slots.

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I presume that Bravo Company makes their M-LOK attachments according to the MagPul specifications. They certainly look just like the screws that came on the MagPul sourced angled fore grip that I mounted at 6 o’clock. And these screws come coated with a yellow form of a thread locker. Otherwise it might be worth buying a shorter screw.

I could try to shorten them my else’s, but how do I know how much is enough so that the barrel doesn’t hit them when it whips as fired? If you have ever watched a high speed camera replay in slo-mo, there is significant barrel whip. The whole point of free floating to give room for that. Anything that interferes with barrel harmonics can interfere with accuracy or consistency.

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Second photo has top rail removed showing minimal clearance between top of barrel and underside of hand guard. In contrast there is a lot of space between the bottom of the barrel and the bottom of the hand guard. All because the barrel is not centered in the hand guard.

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Ruger wants me to send the PCC in to them. I counter-offered that they tell me the normal gap between the top of the barrel and the underside of the hand guard. I don’t want to send it in only to find it is built to specifications.

I measure the gap as about 3.4 mm.

Anyone else here able to make that measurement to see if mine is similar?

Ruger won’t be getting back to me until after Christmas at the earliest.

Registered

Ruger wants me to send the PCC in to them. I counter-offered that they tell me the normal gap between the top of the barrel and the underside of the hand guard. I don’t want to send it in only to find it is built to specifications.

I measure the gap as about 3.4 mm.

Anyone else here able to make that measurement to see if mine is similar?

Ruger won’t be getting back to me until after Christmas at the earliest.

Yes, that would work, but the whole point of the Streamlinght setup I bought was both the tape switch and light were easily removed from their respective pieces of rail. Don’t need the extra weight during Steel Challenge or USPSA matches, but will need for night matches.

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So this has me a little worried. I just took delivery of model 19116 (Mlok non threaded barrel) with the specific intent of modding the rifle a bit for my needs. Is this a common issue? I emailed Ruger with my concern, and this was their reply:

“It is critical that the handguard is centered on the barrel, so that the M-LOK slots align with the fluting. If they are not in alignment the measurement is 3.3mm, if it is aligned the measurement is 5mm. An additional way to mount troublesome optics/accessories is to remove the handguard, affix the accessory, then attach the handguard.”

Emperor

Yes, the solution suggested by Ruger is what I would do. Measure the clearance to the barrel top from the top of the hand guard. Remove the hand guard and check the screws on your M-LOK accessory to make sure they are not too long for that amount of clearance. If they are, you will need to file them down.

Even if you have to shorten the screws a little, you will still probably be able to mount the accessory to the rail with the accessory off. But if you want to attach and remove accessories repeatedly, this process might be a bit awkward.

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