Escape to Cowichan Bay, B.C.

Meet Cowichan Valley, an undiscovered land in British Columbia where food is ultra-local, vineyards are low-key, and canoes replace taxicabs

This salty seaside village is North America’s first official Cittaslow (Italian for “Slow City”), as ordained last year by the worldwide association (followed by Sonoma). Slow city. Slow food. Slow is my new speed.

Sprawling Cowichan Valley isn’t as polished as its Northern California slow-city counterpart. Its country roads are lined with small farms, ordinary houses, a few tasting fee–free vineyards.

But on the Affinity Guesthouse's 22 acres, it’s pure bliss. Swallows sing. Bald eagles float by. Otters play in the Koksilah River—flowing right by my feet.

Next: Find out where to stay, eat, and explore when you row into town.

Or fly to Victoria; it’s an hour drive from the airport on B.C.-1; or take the Brentwood Bay–Mill Bay ferry ($6 U.S. per passenger, $14 U.S. per vehicle;bcferries.com). More info:cowichanbay.com

Head into Cowichan Bay Villiage to explore the town life. Hand-scrawled signs offer free-range eggs! fresh-cut herbs! (Payment by honor box, of course.) Some yards are filled with abandoned cars and old boats, and tanning salons sit beside organic bakeries.