GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)The Republic of Trinidad and Tobago is an unitary
parliamentary constitutional republic, made up by two larger islands and
some small ones. It is found north of Venezuela, and it covers only 5.131
square kilometres. It is the home of 1.349.667 citizens, of which 55% are
Christians, 18% Hindi and 5% Muslims.
The currency is Trinidadian Dollar, worth 0,89 DKK and €0,12. The GDP is
US$21.748 billion. Number three in the Americas after the US and Canada.
The island of Trinidad was a Spanish colony from the arrival of Christopher
Columbus in 1498 until Spanish governor Don José María Chacón surrendered
the island to a British fleet under the command of Sir Ralph Abercromby in
1797.The good thing about that is; the official languish is English by now.
During the same period, the island of Tobago changed hands among Spanish,
British, French, Dutch and Courlander colonizers more times than any other
island in the Caribbean. I guess they learned to store away the old flags.
Trinidad and Tobago were ceded to Britain in 1802 under the Treaty of Amiens
as separate states and unified in 1889.Trinidad and Tobago obtained
independence in 1962 and became a republic in 1976.
Trinidad and Tobago is known as the birthplace of steelpan drums, the limbo,
and music styles such as calypso, soca, parang and chutney.
The terrain of the islands is a mixture of mountains and plains. The highest
point in the country is found on the Northern Range at El Cerro del Aripo,
which is 940 metres above sea level. Trinidad is made up of a variety of
soil types, the majority being fine sands and heavy clays.
The climate is tropical, with two seasons annually: the dry season for the
first five months of the year, and the rainy season in the remaining seven
of the year.
The main ecosystems are: coastal and marine (coral reefs, mangrove swamps,
open ocean and seagrass beds), forest, freshwater (rivers and streams),
karst; man-made ecosystems (agricultural land, freshwater dams, secondary
forest), and savannah.
Despite their size, they have quite some biodiversity: 98 species of
mammals, 470 birds, 30 amphibians, 90 reptilians and around 2.500 species of
vascular plants. And then there are the marine-life with around 500 fish and
loads of corals.
Among the more interesting land-mammals are the Nine-banded armadillo (Dasypus
novemcinctus), Silky anteater (Cyclopes didactylus), Southern
tamandua (Tamandua tetradactyla), White-fronted capuchin (Cebus
albifrons), Tufted capuchin (Cebus apella), Guyanan red howler (Alouatta
macconnelli), Brazilian porcupine (Coendou prehensilis), Lowland
paca (Cuniculus paca), lots of bats, Ocelot (Leopardus pardalis),
Small Asian mongoose (Herpestes javanicus), Crab-eating raccoon (Procyon
cancrivorus), Neotropical river otter (Lontra longicaudis),
Collared peccary (Pecari tajacu), Red brocket (Mazama americana)
and some opossums.
I fail to find any plants I in particular want to see, but here must be some
interesting cacti.

DIARY18/2. I start the day
in Georgetown, Guyana. A short flight
to Port of Spain on Trinidad, a long wait, and an additional short flight to
Crown Point on Tobago. Seven hours tour, one hour in the air. I find my car,
and a real cheerful young girl upgrade me, just to realise; she don't have
that class. I get an even bigger!,

I head straight out on the island.
Here turned out to be way more to see, than I had expected for a small
island like this, and I only have three and a quarter of a day! It is
Sunday, and
as
expected, the beaches are a bit crammed. Not that I mind the people, but the
generators they nee to drive their amplifiers! And they need that music to
deafen the generators, I
guess? Anyway, the beaches are perfect, but nothing
to find.

On the area behind the beach some huge trees are
flowering orange. I find a single closer to the beach, but no idea for ID. In
other places, it look like flame trees, filled with bright red flowers and
no leaves. And it is not only ones with bright colours; many of the houses
have it too: Orange, purple, blue, green, yellow and everything in-between.
Some are old wood houses, most are more modern concrete.

I
head up the road,
and kind of crosses over the island. I set the GPS for a
small fishing village; Castara, and it take me some time to figure: It
consider any route on Tobago to be straight. No heads up for sharp left or
rights. Just straight ahead. Well, it did annoyed me, it said "turn right",
just because there were a tiny goats trail turning slightly left. And here
are no straight roads at all. It is a narrow but high island, and the roads
twists like snakes in ant nests. And here are quite some side-roads, sp I
have to have one eye on the GPS.

I follow the Arnos Vale Road, which leads right over the
ridge in the middle of the island.
Here are small stretches without houses,
and they get bigger and bigger, the further east I get.
On
the central ridge, a massive tree stands on the road. It could be a
kapok-tree; Ceiba pentandra. Here are a few Bromeliad species in the
trees and some small cacti.

I cross a few creeks, and they are perfect clear. Here
don't seem to be much farming at all, but I do meet a few sheep at one at
the beaches.
Some black clouds are gathering, and I get a few wind-tears. The clouds are
gathering in general, and at five, when I reach Castara, it is without much
sun.

It is a tiny town with a perfect beach and some tourists.
I try to capture the idyllic scenery, but the lack of sun make it a bit
hard. I guess I have to come back. I head back towards the hotel, hoping I
can find it.
As
expected, it have no markings at all. It is just an apartment over a store.
But I find it right away, and ask for a restaurant. I have a kitchen, but
the stores closed at four, just as I was about to shop. Next door is a fancy
restaurant, but despite they have several vegetarian dishes, none hold any
protein. I'll eat anyway, as I want to get home and work.
Day 1: Beaches and Castara

19. I star the day in the Scarborough Botanical
Garden. It is large and well maintained, but it kind of lack collections and
name tags; I don't find a single. Gardeners, on the other hand is
everywhere, and they are working. I get seven in one frame, not even trying.
I see it all, but find nothing interesting.

I head on to Fort George, which is located in a memorial
park. It have some huge trees, some of them are covered in huge Bromeliads.
The fort dates back to 1770, but the buildings are well preserved, although
they don't look that old. I find some bats in the gunpowder storage, and
some lizards on the lanes. A single gecko find a crack in the wall.

Here
are some great views to Scarborough and along the coast. I follow the
southern coast, and have to make a lot of stops. Not only are each cove
fantastic, the small rivers and creeks that meet the sea have great lagoons.
I find quite some interesting plants in-between the road and the beach.

I see a few cows, but besides from around 15 sheep in
total, and a lot of hens, I see no domestic animals at all. Birds, on the
other hand, are numerous. Here are frigatebirds, starlings, parrots,
flycatchers, sparrows, hummingbirds, tangares, water fowls, finches,
pelicans, falcons,
swallows, wrens and many more.

As
I get further northeast, the less houses here are. After so many small stops
- and several longer - I finally reach Argyle Nature Park. I had hoped for
several tracks, but they only have one to the Argyle Waterfalls. But the
nature along the trail is so interesting. I see some fluffy peapods-like
fruits, which are from a lianas. It is not
hairs, but irritating needles,
and the pods should not be touched. But I want a seed!

Her are giant bamboo and huge trees. Not that many
Bromeliads species, but those who are here, are numerous. Some leaf-cacti
are also sitting in the trees along with Queen of
the
Night-cacti and the tiny Ripsalis. Here are also a few orchid
species, but no flowers.

Besides from the natural plants, here are the remains of
an old cacao plantation.
I find some new flowers and ripe fruits. Nearby the
locals grow a vide array of fruits for their own consumption.
I would like to investigate the forest more, but the steep sides and dense
vegetation make it too hard. And I see quite a lot along the trail anyway.

The
trail follow the river, which look a bit small, and I don't expect much of
the fall. But it is actually real beautiful. It is three major sections,
forming a total of 54 meter of waterfall. The water is crystal clear, and I
see a lot of fish. I spend a lot of time climbing the huge boulders and the
narrow trail leading from one section to another. Her are so many
interesting plants too.

I find a Shaw's Black-backed Snake; Erythrolamprus melanotus nesos
(endemic subspecies), but is does not really cooperate about the
photo. I have not much more luck with the huge,
black ants, but at least, I don't get bitten. Some huge lizards are even
better to avoid the camera, and I remember why I go for plants! Then I see
the flowering orchid - way up a tree...

I head further up the coastal
road, and pass a few settlements. A few dinghies on the beach, but nothing
serious fishing at all. I think here are more bars than boats. The houses
are small, but many well maintained. They are scatted around the foothills,
and some must have great views over the blue water.

I
stop in Sprayside, which is almost a town. It have a wall along the beach,
and the waves spay when the reach it. I find a cup of tea, but are eager to
continue. I walk along the beach, and reach yet another creek, forming a
great looking lagoon.

A bit further on, an old sugar mill is now only barren
walls and the huge wheel, which was in the river. A small hill overlooks the
bay, and here I find some cacti and a flycatcher, bathing in the bromeliads
leave-pools.

The
road continues, and so do I. It leads a bit inland, through forest covered
small mountains, offering great views to the sea. The first road end at some
huge masts, and a park-like area. I walk the area and find some new plants.
Then I try to find the road that leads most east.

It end at a gate, but a set of wheel-tracks continues,
and due to my huge car, I have to walk. But; here are plenty of interesting
nature, and I see a lot. Unfortunately, the sun disappears at four, and the
motives are not as good as they could have been. But the plants are
interesting enough to lour me further in.

It
start to drizzle a but, and then I reach the north-eastern coast. I hurry
back to the car, and start the time consuming ride back home. On the way, I
find a camouflage coloured cow - as long as it stick to the black and
with road sides.
Earlier today, I found a supermarket which actually had a few fresh
vegetables and some buns in a bag. I will make my own supper for once.
I finish a few other things, and start on the diary at ten. It shortens it a
bit.... Day 2: BG, Argyle NP,
Sprayside, North-Eastern Nature

20.In an effort to reach the high altitude mountain road, crossing the
island, I once again head up the southern coast. At first, I thought this
was the countryside road, but it is actually the major! Despite I drown here
twice yesterday, I just have to stop a few times, to enjoy the views.

The scenery where the creeks meet the sea, the
"Bounty-land" beaches, the huge trees and the rich greenery have to be
appreciated. Despite that, I do try to limit the amount of photos.
I
do a stop at the same bakery as yesterday, and stock some of their wired
cakes. One is like baked pasta plates, the other; a more commonn raisin role.
Yesterday, they were warm, now they are hard.

I find some flowering orchids in a dead tree, leaving
them exposed to the sun. I find a few trails - or driveways I didn't try
yesterday, but they do not reveal much new. I find some great views on the
other side of the road, where I stopped for the beach yesterday. Here, like
so many other places, grass and herbs are cut real short with weed-eaters.

I
reach Tobago Forest Reserve road in Roxborough. It leads across the island,
over the main ridge to Bloody Bay. I think the highest I get is 510 metres,
but the nature is fantastic, as most in completely undisturbed forest.
On top of that, there are even some trails! And a office in the middle and a
little sheet, selling the most fantastic lemon spoons cake and tea!

But, before I reach that, I do some real hikes on the
trails. The first; the Hummingbird Trail, is unfortunately just been
maintained: It is cut back to almost the roots, ten metres to
each
side. I rather have nature a bit closer, please!
This is undisturbed forest,
and one of the trees that are characteristic are
the Silk Tree. Huge, and the stem filled with nasty spikes.

Here are several orchids in the trees, along with a few
Bromeliad species. The groomed trail finally end, and here, dazzling
hummingbird are stationed. I continues on the narrow and rough trail, but it
end up in bamboo on a steep slope.
Another
trail leads the other way from my car, and here, I find giant lizards,
hiding in small holes, leafcutter ants on their real maintained highways and
a lot of birds. Well, I hear them. Strangler figs are doing their thing,
Swiss Cheese Plant; Monstera deliciosa are covering entire stems,
almost from the ground. I see a single, little Red-Tailed Rquirrel,;
Sciurus granatensis but besides from that, and some domesticated
animals, here are few mammals.

I find a few other trails, which at least is not widen
that much. They have not been maintained for years, and some are real old,
to judge from the roots. Here are quite some interesting
plants
- and way too little light. Here, the forest floor is made up by dry leaves.
From time to time, I get small glimpses of the blue sea at the northern
shore.

I meet a hummingbird, that totally ignores me. That give
some rather good photos, although I have to use flash. Then I reach
the office and the spoons cake, but the trail is a bit to wide here as well.
As the road decent on the other side of the main ridge, a few houses are
found along the road.

Then
I reach the tiny settlement of Bloody Bay and the perfect beach. Brown
pelicans are fishing right out of the beach, but the lagoon lures me in. On
the boulders protecting it, I see some large Anolis. Some short
tailed eagles sit on the other side of the river, and a whole bunch of white
herons are sitting in the bushes.

It start to rain, and I stop waiting for a glimpse of the
sun. Further up the coast, the little village of Charlotteville are found. A
perfect bay, filled with blue water, surrounded by dark forest. Here are a
few newer houses, and more might come. But the main part is still old,
paint-hungering wooden houses.

Black-hooded
seagulls are fishing in the bay, and frigatebirds harassing them. I try real
patient to get a picture of the city from the pier WITH sun, but is only
appears when I go shopping for teabags.
My GPS show a road, leading a bit further up the coast, and I give it a try.
Right away, it turn in to a set of muddy wheel tracks on a an almost
vertical wall.

But the view from her is fantastic, and the trail
continues into the forest to meet Pirates Bay. There are a place to turn and
park - if you go nerves of stainless steel - and I walk from
there.
When I get back, one of the almost black finches is fighting its own
reflection in a mirror. Some finches are completely black.

I realises; if I'm going to see Scarborough before I
leave, I better do it today. Despite is is only 45 kilometres home, but the
"good" southern road, and I races, it take well over a hour.
Scarborough is a bit disappointing. I guess much is based on the huge cruise
ships, of which hare are none today. Lots of bars and restaurants and
probably some souvenir shops. All closed by now. I find the market,
but with the exception of a few stands, it is closed for the day.

21.
It is my last day on Tobago, and I have to see the northern coast and
what it holds of sights. I start finding a gas station, but they hide them
well. I then make a slight detour back to Plymounth, and this little village
actually have one - among really few other things. But their view down on
the cliffs are great.

A bit further up the coast, I get loured into several
gravel roads, following the small creeks. It is pretty much the same plants
as on the south side, but here seems to be a bit dryer.
Further up the
coast, the coastal hills are covered in grass and giant bamboo. I try to
find a way into them, but they are apparently private.

Somehow
(due to the useless GPS), I end up crossing the island on the southern
mountain road; Arnos Vale. I have driven it before, but it is a great chance
to revisit the enormous Silk Tree on the ridge. This time, I do a proper
investigation and even a selfie! The stem is not that thick, but the
board-supporting-roots make it truly amassing. I thing it reaches ten
metres, counting the colossal root, heading downhill with.

I find my way back to the northern coast, and the views
down to the deep blue water is astonishing. Here are more houses that I had
expected, but scattered in the hills. I can't imagine
how
people are making a living here? Well, some drive the few cruise ship guests
that actually leave the ship, around in minibuses and SUVs. One try to sell
some rather good woodcarvings to them, and here are plenty of open cafes,
when a ship come in.

I find a few new plants, but I find it hard to tell, if
they are native, or just gone awol from someone's garden. for example the
Sansevierias and some of the Morning Glory? Around Black Rock, I visit
yet another perfect bay. They are so lovely, but the pictures tend to look
alike, I know.

I
do many stops along the road, and besides from the plants, I see quite some
animals like the Green Iguana. Her are incredible green, and I tend to take
photos of just green! And they look alike...
I follow a creek into the forest - within the creek. The water is so cold
and clear. A bend have over a meter of water, and it is like crystal! The
rocks are slippery, but it is defiantly worth it! Ferns, giant bamboo and
red rocks.

I see and especially hear a lot of birds. Parrots are
crossing the clearings constantly, and that is noisy. Small birds are
patrolling the bushes for insects, and despite I know I can't, I try to get
pictures. They are so colourful!
Next
bay is Englishman's Bay, which have a tiny restaurant and souvenir shop. I
brought a cup from home, bought another at the ridge, but why not refill
here?

The river leading into the bay is lined with giant
bamboo, and it make great motives. But it also limit the amount of other
plants, as the ground ten to be barren under the giants. Although really
tempting to sit on the top floor, overlooking the bay and colourful scarfs
for sale, I drive on with my tea.

The
next bay is Parlatuvier, and it is just as dazzling as the others. It have a
rather big concrete pier, and that offers both a great angle to the coast,
but also the the marine life. I see some huge black spots on the seafloor.
And yes, they do move around. I hoped for sea turtles, but it is huge
stingrays.

A fisherman is starting to clean some small garfish, and
he say: "Watch my aquarium!". And he sure have not only many but beautiful
fish. He want to swap with me; I can live in his house on the beach, and he
want to live in Denmark. I suggest him to take a good book and sit in a
deep-freezer for some hours. If he still want to swap after a day; fine with
me. Still haven't heard from him...

A huge lagoon is surrounded by grass and sheep,
and I get
soaked, trying to find new plants. How they grow n this new sand, getting
salt water from time to time, I ant figure. It must be washed out as soon as
it get here?
Some Anolis are just a split second too fast for me all the time. I
end up with a few blurry ones, and some sharp tails.

I
make it to Bloody Bay, where I was yesterday. It is still as perfect, but I
spend the time in the lagoon. Then it start to rain, and despite I seek
further up the coast, where I was yesterday, it pretty much continues. Only
one thing to do:
Find the other side of the island. And here are the great
mountain road, leading straight through Tobago Main Ridge Forest Reserve.

I do the last trails I skipped yesterday, and actually
succeed to find some new plants, among them several orchids. The Niplig
Trail is rather muddy, and the rain almost get to me. I get out running. But
that wont stop me from doing the Blue Copper Trail - still without rain
protection. Here are some strange epiphytic plants I can't place at all, and
several orchids.

Again,
the rain catch up, and I head on through the
green forest. Some short stops
reveal an insect-eating hummingbird, some new epiphyttes and lazy ants. they
don't carry the diggings long, and end up with a pipe - which protect them
from flooding?

I head home slowly, enjoying the ride. I follow the main
road all the way into the centre of Scarborough , but I don't pass a singe
gas station! But at the harbour a cruise ship have arrived, and here are
more activity. I just head on, and I expect I will have quite some work to
do to night, and surely a new flight in the morning. Day 4: The North Coast and Central Ridge
andPlants of Tobago