I made the mistake of getting stoned before I went out surfin'. I get out there, and I have no motivation. I was actually content, just sitting and going over the humps(swells). Suddenly, a rogue wave comes, so I start paddling to the right, to try and get past the break, before it falls on me. Of course, I didn't make it, ended up duck-diving into the face of the 8ft face wave. Front of my board snaps the moment I duck into it, I wipe out, and end up eating it, and next thing you know, I'm fighting to get to the surface and breath, because my board was held down from the current, and was keeping me down with it. It sounds gnarlier than it actually was. Remember though, I was high, so it was pretty real to me at the time.