The List: 3 Oct 2002 (Issue 452)

That original all-American snack, the hot dog, is being dragged from the cinema foyer and fun-fair to a place of sausage celebration - Edinburgh’s bau.waus. Words: Mark Robertson

f 'bespoke sausages’ sounds like an absurd idea. you haven‘t been to bau.waus.

Scotland's first gourmet hot dog Outlet. ‘Our intention was always to give people

more than “do you want fries with that?" service.‘ says co-owner Stephen Tait. 'You get a great meal but also the atmosphere. the music and the chat from our staff.‘

And true to his word. the slick dark wood. buffed chrome and marble counters paired with the charming patter merchants at the counter ensure no one leaves with ‘just' a snack. 'If someone comes in and asks for just a “hot dog with ketchup" we say "no" and try and give them what they really wanted but didn't know to ask for.‘ Holding him to his word. we road- tested bau.waus‘ top five hot dogs to ensure you never feel inadequate in the sausage department again.

Frankfurter

(£2.50) Not the basqued-up Rocky

Horror trannie but the fully-evolved descendent of the mealy multiplex minnow and the funky fairground floppy. A robust. savoury sausage. it works best with the holy trinity of mustard. ketchup and onions. A little pedestrian. but a good stepping off point for the nervous. What kind of real dog would this be? A golden retriever. Chorizo

(£2.95) Kissing cousin of the original sparky Spanish porker. it packs a back-of-the- palette kick and has a strong smell. coarse texture and satisfyineg salty tang. Dollop on some tomato salsa or just mayo if you're a wuss. Either way a winner.

What kind of real dog would this be? A bad-tempered chihuahua.

Bavarian Smokie

(£2.95) A hefty prospect that when smothered in mushrooms and cream cheese is billed by Tait as ‘the cooked breakfast in a bun'. This could prove to be the newest truly portable hangover cure since lrn-Bru in cans. Don't be fooled by its similarity to that chippy smoked staple. thi. ., earthy beast is smoked over beech chips and despite the fairly tough. red exterior is worth persevering with. What kind of real dog would this be? A german shepherd. Kabanosa

(£2.95) Descended from the Polish peril. the peppery but sweet taste now heats the east coast like it once did the Eastern Bloc. It's a little more refined than the supermarket deli counter favourite with a line texture and an attractive bacon-like aftertaste. A classy prospect when paired off with some chilli sauce. onions and mayo. One for the connoisseur. What kind of real dog would this be? A boxer. Bratwurst - (£2.75) The herby. mild-mannered janitor of the hot dog world. It has a firm consistency and a touch of garlic. so ease off it on first dates. Laid-back but comforting. try with a white bun, a lick of mayo and some sweetcorn relish to add a bit of European va-va—voom. 'Vorsprung durch top sausage' as they never say in Germany. What kind of real dog would this be? A West Highland terrier crossed with a dachshund.

I bau.waus. 40 Oueensferry Street. Edinburgh.

122 THE LIST (5 l 7 ()0! 2002

Side dishes

An extra helping of news . . .

I IF YOUR INTEREST IN food goes little further than the wine which accompanies a meal, classes on its appreciation by wine master Rose Murray Brown resume this autumn. Classes every Wednesday night in Glasgow’s One Devonshire Gardens begin 9 October at 7pm (£25 each or £95 for all four). The Enjoying Wine series then moves to Edinburgh’s Point Conference Centre Wednesday 6 November. For information visit www.rosemurraybrown .com, email masterclass @rosemurraybrown.com or telephone 01334 870731.

I THE SCOTTISH CHEF Association‘s Brian Hannan is launching a new cooking school above Peckham’s on Glassford Street, Glasgow. Bread-making began this new venture and a one-day modern Scottish cooking course (280) is scheduled for Saturday 5 October. Details: 0141 552 5239.

I GRASSROOTS, THE landmark Glasgow organic/ vegetarian shop and cafe, is running classes on both vegetarian and Japanese cookery. ‘We’re attempting something different and ambitious,’ says owner Elspeth Gibson. Kumiko Hatori will lead the instruction on Japanese cooking, with classes on miso, tofu, sushi and those exotic Asian vegetables. Courses began on 30 September and run every Monday until 18 November. Separate lessons on meat- free cooking begin with Sprout for Life, which shows the multitude of benefits from soaking seeds. On 15 October and then every Tuesday until 19 November, Grassroots’ chef Tracey Thanopoulis will lead classes on vegetarian cooking tapics such as soup, main meals, baking and pastries. All classes begin at 6.30pm. Costs are £25 for individual sessions or £20 each if booking six or more. Contact Grassroots, 20 Woodlands Road, 0141 353 3278 for more information.