Whatever you have been led to believe, there is no spring to compress. The parts in this kit fit snugly under the spring and do not compress it unless the pulley is turned. (Some of these techs are still stuck in the dark ages and use things like lug nuts and duct tape to make repairs.)

The thrust bearing requires only a pair of needle nose pliers or even a flat blade screwdriver to release a single C-clip on the lower shaft. The parts simply slip onto the shaft and you re-install the clip. One you see the easy to follow instructions in the kit, you will slap yourself for not having performed this easy job sooner.

This is not the repair that requires any brake tools, etc. You just lean the machine back far enough to lay in front and slip the old pulley and bearing off from underneath. No disassembly of the machine itself is required other than the lower pulley.

So I bought the thrust bearing kit and I'm having difficulty installing it. Most of the parts seem a bit different from the ones currently installed.

To make it worse when I popped the retaining ring clip off, all the washers and pully jumped off all over the place and I'm not sure what order it goes back together. I've tried to use the diagrams in the instructions but don't seem that clear.

All the original parts that came off, look to be in good condition. How can I be sure I need to replace the thrust bearing? Wondering if this is not the solution to my washer not spinning

I'm really confused as to the order of things to be placed on from the new kit. These instructions are not clear enough. Does anyone have better diagrams or instructions?

What you have is a series of washers then the thrust washer then the pulley and then the clip to hold it all in place. If you have it close then it will be very hard to put the clip on. I tried a claw hammer to push against the brake spring but the head of the hammer won't allow for it to pass through the main pulley. I tried a wide blade long screwdriver but I couldn't get the leverage a hammer has. So Tryed a claw. It is like a hammer without the head. It makes it easy. If you have too many washers then the brake will be released and the tub will turn freely(no good), If you do not have enough then the brake will not release the tub. So you gotta keep adding thin or thick washers till you get the right combo. Farting around with this method will wear a dude out who has to stand on his Head with the washer tilted backward using a flat blade screwdriver. So I opt for the claw.

« Last Edit: October 19, 2008, 09:15:24 PM by JWWebster »

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I should also add that the new plastic pulley is taller (by about an inch) in the center where it inserts into the washer compared to the original metal pulley.. This poses a problem, cause then it longer, so I took off the big original washer at the very top of the opening to fit the pulleys center piece inside.

To the untrained eye, your old bearing kit might appear OK. This is the new, improved thrust bearing made specifically for your machine. It is not supposed to look like the old assembly, as the instruction sheet below shows. Please read the Thrust Bearing Instructions on the following document:

If you want JW to assist you on this, I cannot guarantee you won't damage the machine.The instructions are quite clear and this is really a quick repair if you follow them. Unless you replace the assembly, you don't know if the machine will spin right or not.

You are supposed to throw away all the old parts, including the large washer you mentioned. The new kit replaces all those parts with a simple few. Focus on what I am telling you. This should never have taken up 2 pages to explain....