Lyon, France: Tips for the Culinary Caligula

France in
general is a food and wine lover’s orgy – the kind of place where, after two
weeks or so, your body is going, “Please, for the love of God, STOP.”

But oh, what
a way to overindulge.

Considered
the gastronomic capital of the world, France’s third largest city has both
Michelin-starred restaurants and
hole-in-the-walls that are fairly astounding in quality. You can spend hundreds
of dollars at glamorous, two and three Michelin-star restaurants (of which
there are more per capita than anywhere in the world)…or enjoy a $35
three-course prix-fixe at a small, Old Town eatery that will absolutely floor
you.

The top restaurants, like legendary chef Paul Bocuse’s three-Michelin star Auberge du Pont de Collonges, are well-known and easily Google-able. So, in this article, we’ll focus on how to dine like a French queen on a peasant’s budget.

For
starters, there are the wonderful “bouchons” – homey bistro-style restaurants,
most of which have been family-run for generations. These are where you will
find prix-fixe lunch and dinner meals with extraordinarily inventive cuisine, most
of which run about $25 at lunch and $35 at dinner for three (sometimes four) courses.

Tips:

Like
everywhere in France, don’t rush in for a 30-minute meal; these are two-hour
affairs meant to be appreciated and lingered over, even at lunch. They’re proud
of their food, and they don’t want you wolfing it down like you’re sitting
behind a steering wheel.

Be
adventurous. Some of the dishes I’ve tried – lamb’s feet, sweetbreads – are
things I would never have considered
at home. Sure, you can order chicken breast and salmon, but why not get a story
out of it?

Then,
there’s Paul Bocuse’s food hall, a farmer’s market on steroids, where you can
get some of the most exquisite cheeses, petit fours, etc. imaginable. Many
foods there are like little works of art. It’s a great place to have a quick
bite – grab some gruyere, bread and wine – in an atmosphere of locals.

Then, there
are the wonderful small-group tasting tours, which generally run 3-4 hours, and
include a number of stops at Old Town eateries. (Lyon’s medieval Old Town is insanely
charming.) If you’re limited on time and want to have a chance to sample about four
different restaurants, this is the way to go. Here, you’ll enjoy items like
French cheeses, meats, casseroles, desserts and wine. Arrive hungry. A big part
of these tours is getting to meet and connect with the owners and experience
their passion for food.

About $100-175,
depending on the number in your group (great if, say, 4 or 6 of you want to do
a private tour)

https://foodie-lyon.com/

[Sebastien, of Lyon is Yours Tours, is
in the middle]

And finally,
there are the privately guided city tours that include a meal or two – like
Lyon is Yours Tours, run by a guide named Sebastien. A former flight attendant
for Air France, he’s a Lyon native who speaks flawless English, is super warm
and knowledgeable, and very gay-friendly. On a full-day tour of Lyon, Sebastien
included lunch at the Restaurant Fourviere, adjacent to the Basilica Fourviere.
Sitting atop Lyon’s highest hill, their outdoor patio had stunning views. (Sadly,
it recently closed.) Lyon is Yours also offers half and full-day wine tours
(Sebastien’s family is in the wine business).

If you’re
taking a Rhone river cruise (like Brand g’s Provence to Burgundy cruise in
2020), you’ll discover that of all the charming cities and villages you hit
along the way – and there are MANY – Lyon is the one you’ll want to return to
for a full-fledged vacation. There’s a reason so many Lyon natives return to
their birthplace; like the mafia, just when you think you’re out, it pulls you
back in.