Description

The Chessman Area is a sprawling collection of more than 50 routes. While climbs were established as early as 1979, the crag really blossomed in 2008 when Eric-Fazio Rhicard and Jim Scott started developing the area.

The Chessman Area makes for an easy day of cragging due to its low elevation and proximity to the road. It has the opposite aspect of windy point. The main walls have shade until approximately 2pm.

Chessman Overview

The breakdown of the area from left to right is as follows:

Pawn & Chessapeak: The Chessapeak Wall, which is the south face of the Pawn, contains ten routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.10-. A number of the routes are traditional or mixed. Additional routes such as Hour of Power and The Phalanx are in the vicinity.

King: Thirteen traditional and sport lines ranging from 5.9- to 5.12+. Serf's Up (5.12-) on the Rampart and King's Arete are classic. This area includes the King's Rampart sector.

Knight: The six front-facing, sport lines range in difficulty from 5.10 to 5.11. Knight Owl and Knight Maneuvers are considered the best. The four traditional and mixed lines on the south face are 5.6 to 5.9+ and all are R rated.

Lorax & Ball Return: Nine routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.10+. Some are gear and some are sport.

One Day Wall: Seven moderate sport and traditional routes with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.9-.

Getting There

When driving up the Mount Lemmon Highway pass the Seven Cataracts Vista, continuing a quarter mile. At approximately mile mark 9.4 park in a small, tree-lined pullout on the right that has a drainage.

Disembark and hike straight up the rocky drainage for approximately 15 minutes. The strenuous hike involves a small amount of scrambling but is over soon enough. A fork near the cliff divides the Queen and Bishop sectors. The former is reached by the left, uphill fork; the latter by the right, level fork.

One of the best 5.11 sport pitches on the mountain, "Two Kings And A Pawn" ascends the most prominent face of the Queen formation. This route has amazing pockets, an interesting crack system, and an exposed roof bypass. Beautiful!...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ

Jimbo is only poking fun at some guys who seem to be isolating themselves in a canyon up north near the town of Pine. He tried to pawn this area off on some other folks the other knight but they felt that they were being rooked. He tried to tell them they could be king and queen of the castle but they were not buying his game. They said they wouldn't believe what Jim said if he was the bishop. Any way you should check it out mate there are lots of good moves to be made at the Super Mega Secret Show And Tell Only Area!

Hey I recently climbed a route on the queen formation perhaps??? It was located next to two routes that share a start. The climb was long and broken up half way by a ledge with a single perma-draw. It continued up a groove/shallow dihedral and pulled a bulge right before the anchors. Anybody know what route this is?

Is it up there on the wall next to the thin seems with the orange rock? You know the one that starts above the ledge with the bushes? You know the one with the carabiners and quick links at the anchors. A little more info would help. Except for the chain draw you just described half a dozen routes there. You might start by looking at the overhead in SQ II on page 44 so you know if you were on the Queen or not.

Is it left or right of the two routes that start the same? Is it to the right of the trail that leads up to the wall? But thinking about the Queen, I think there are 4 of 5 routes that have the same start. The only one I can remember having a chain draw is on the far right just before the big alcove gully. This climb starts on Handmaiden 5.10 (has a belay bolt with a small plate that has 101 ft. stamped on it) then works right. There is a hard move over a roof. Seem to remember a chain draw being on that one as it was hard to clip just the bolt. Can't remember the name off hand but do recall that it was 11+ or so. If Jimbo doesn't chime in with a name I will look it up when I get to my office.

Tyler, everyone, but you I guess, knows where the chessman is now. We originally posted it as a "super secrete area" as a tongue and cheek response to the Isolation Canyon developers. They posted loads of pics but kept the location secrete for quite sometime.

Anyway the first pullout on the right about a quarter mile past the 7 Cataracts Vista parking area is where you park for the Chessman. Just follow the drainage and trail straight up from the pullout. Lots of good climbs of all grades. Stays shady till 2:00 or so this time of year. So go late or wait for a warm day.

went out today to scout the crag. does anyone have a detailed topo? i was a little confused as to which route is which. beautiful area. cant wait to get on it and climb. the kings rampart is cool. super creative belay station. what routes start from that spot?