Every Monday night at 7 p.m., dinner is served at Bruce & Son (208 Main St., Greenport). Guests sit at a communal table and are served a tasting menu whose ingredients are drawn almost entirely from the North Fork. “It’s really a snapshot of what’s available exactly at that moment,” Knapp said. He says he’s particularly proud of sourcing 100 percent of his proteins locally. “We use local fish, of course, and chickens from Browder’s and Miloski’s, duck from Crescent, lamb from 8 Hands Farm.”

The pawpaw, Knapp explained, is a fruit tree native to Indiana, where he grew up. Also known as custard apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, ylang-ylang and soursop, the fruit is highly perishable. “They go bad very quickly,” he said. “you have to eat them immediately.” It is this delicious, evanescent quality that he tries to capture at PAWPAW.