Picking Out The Best Belt

How To Choose The Perfect Belt For Any Outfit

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Belts have been documented as far back in history as the bronze age when crude materials were used to hoist cloth together, but it wasn’t until more recently, in the 1920’s that the belt really took off as we know it today. During this time, many Eastern European soldiers wore belts tightly around their waist, on the outside of their uniform (mainly for aesthetic reasons, but also to provide stability).

The belt itself has largely remained unchanged, with leather being the preferred fabric, and a long, tapered material being the usual shape. These belts replaced suspenders and offered men a more causal and easy way to adjust their pants. As such, we saw the introduction of the modern belt buckle, which tends to feature a timeless metal buckle or a cowboy or Patriotic buckle, with eagles or flags.

Despite the simple mechanics of a belt, we see this utilitarian tool used in all manner of ways; from the police officer’s duty belt to Batman’s utility belt, it seems there is a belt for every occasion. The trouble is, many guys go through life with only one or two belts – a black one and a brown one. Not only is this incredibly dull, but it ignores how much belts have to offer the dapper man.

What belt you wear can say a lot about who you are and what you do, and is within eye range when you are approaching someone. Pick the wrong belt, and you could look completely out of place. Choose the best belt, and you could find yourself on the receiving end of a compliment. Not to mention, the right belt will also save you embarrassment from any disastrous pants-down scenarios.

So, for this crucial reason, I’m going to show you how to pass the litmus test of men’s fashion: how you can choose the best belt for any scenario with confidence!

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Everyday Belts

These are the belts that you don't have to think twice about. You can roll out of bed, slip into some decent threads and pull it all together with a versatile, sturdy and style-steady strap of leather. Meant to get you through the everyday, you can get away with just one of these if it's a mute tan — easy to pair with any shoe & any overall look.

Generally, casual belts are fairly wide and are crafted from a supple calfskin, which tends get more comfortable over time since it shapes to your body. Not to mention, the best everyday belts also get better looking the longer you wear it, showcasing your little victories over the daily grind. Here are some of our favorites.

Designated for weddings, office meetings, formal dinners or anytime you want to make a serious impression. Dress belts, as previously mentioned, are typically less than an inch wide and usually vary between black, brown and tan colors. Another common (and suggested) element to look for is quality leather — that's what's going to turn your aging belt into a thing of beauty instead of a thing to replace. That all said, doesn't mean you can't have fun or display some personality when choosing your belt — here are the options that will cover your bases, without having you look like a grandpa.

These aren't your typical options, but there's certainly room for them in more developed belt collections. Ranging from more seasonally appropriate (think boating) to athletic or even 'tactical' in style, here are a few cool numbers that belong in a category of their own.

How Do You Wear A Belt?

When it comes to picking the right belt, I want to throw in a disclaimer right off the bat; there is no one perfect belt. Every man has different needs, and depending on the event and outfit, you are going to need several belts in your repertoire to meet the grade. Just as you have different shoes for sporting and formal occasions, belts offer different styles and use.

For example, a woven linen belt is an amazing accessory in springtime when the nautical look is in full swing. A causal woven leather belt looks great with jeans and boots but would be too bulky for use in the boardroom. And a high-fashion belt buckle might be just what you need to get the attention of a room at a party or red-carpet event but is less appropriate for a sporting game.

I always recommend looking at your existing closet and determining what clothes you regularly wear, to get a feel for what belt might suit your taste. If you wear suits to work or go to a lot of events, it’s easy to see why you would select a more refined, and real leather belt. But if you are a more active man, you may be asking yourself what options are out there for you.

It turns out; there are belts for every man and every conceivable option. So, long as you have a desire to wear a belt, I know you will be able to find one that complements your physique and outfit. If you don’t wear a belt very often, or you wear the wrong size, you might be surprised to learn that a belt can offer more than a way to hold up your pants.

The right belt will complete your outfit, acting as a subtle yet attractive accessory. Yes, it will hold your pants in place, but it will also make your waist appear more slender, and provide you will a comfortable and supported middle section. This is extremely important for portly fellows, of which, I will be talking to you fellas in a few moments – no man is too big to rock a belt, I promise!

The Sizing & Fit

The first step in choosing your belt is first to figure out how long should the belt be. Just as shoes have sizes, so do belts. For most store-bought belts, you’ll find these are offered in the same size as pants, although you will want to go up two or three sizes for the correct fit. When trying on a belt, always place the belt over your pants, and allow a few inches of the belt to loop through the first hole.

Here’s how a belt should fit: you want to be able to comfortably wrap the belt around your largest mid-section, and loop it into the first toggle without pulling harshly or breathing in. You should aim for two or three inches run of the belt, but watch out for belts that are too long (these shoot off from the hip and do not sit right).

If you don’t have enough fabric to do this, you will need to go up another size or two. Remember, no one has any idea what belt size you wear, so leave your ego at the door, and choose a belt that has the right fit. If you are still unsure or prefer the careful eye of a tailor, you can be measured professionally and have a belt sized exactly to your needs.

Here’s How to Determine Your Size

First, look at the pant size of your most comfortable pants

Add two or three inches to this size to get your baseline size

Try on belts within this size range, and allow for another two or three inches for space

Make sure you can wrap the belt around you and secure it comfortably

Adjust as needed until you get a belt that allows you to buckle up while breathing

Or, you can use this handy chart to see where to start:

I cannot stress the importance of trying on belts. You want to get a feel for the belt, and to make sure both the fit and style complement your needs. Belt buckles are another important consideration, and until you try the belt on, you may not know if the belt buckle sits comfortably, or digs into you. Watch out for buckles that pinch at the lip of your pants; this is a sign the belt is too large.

Frequently Asked Questions

I’m often asked, “Are belt sizes in inches?” To which the answer is yes, usually. When you go to a tailor he will take your measurements and add an extra two or three inches to create the prefect length for you; in most cases, the sizing adjustment I offered in store, along with trying on a belt, is more than a good head start in finding your next belt.

Another common question I’m asked is what hole should your belt be on, and this again can vary from man-to-man, and occasion-to-occasion. I find the second hole is comfortable, but the only hard and fast rule here, gents, is not to cut your own hole. The first hole is also acceptable, but I find the third hole is starting to verge into messy territory. By the third hole, you aren’t creating a nice, tight silhouette.

After checking out tons of fashion magazines, I can confidently say it varies, but one common trend is to thread counter-clockwise so that the non-buckled end of the belt is facing left. You want to ensure that you have two or three inches of the belt to loop. More, and you will loop sloppy, and less, and you could add the appearance of a bulge (even if you don’t otherwise have one) to your mid-section.

A word of caution to our left-handed belt wearers; make the distinction. It turns out that belts that are fashioned in the opposing direction, so the belt faces right, is how women are expected to dress. The belt buckle will often still be correct, even with this adjustment (as it will now be sitting inverted), but please do check you aren’t walking around with an upside-down buckle on show.

For larger fellows, you may be wondering what size is a large belt? Typically, men’s sizes run from an XS (28-30 inches) through XL (36-38) in most department stores, but thankfully, more outlets are increasing the size of their belts to accommodate the more realistic size of American men. You can now find brand name belts anywhere into the 50 and 60-inch region and beyond at specialty stores.

The Materials And Belt Styles

Talking about ratchet belts made me realize there are many different types of belts men can wear, and you might be surprised at just how many styles and materials are out there. From braided, to reversible, and straight up fashion belts, there’s definitely something for everyone. This is an exciting time to pick out a style you enjoy, in fabric that compliments your taste and function.

Leather belts are by far the most common material offered and are available in synthetic, bonded, full grain, and genuine leathers. But also popular are non-leather options, such as woven, canvas, polyester, and braided fabric belts (although these tend to have less longevity than a genuine leather belt). I’ll be talking you through how to pick a genuine leather belt in one moment.

But first, for active men, or men between dress sizes, I highly recommend adjustable belts, which offer lots of wiggle room. I used to think that ratchet belts were something only older men wore until I tried one on out of sheer curiosity and was pleasantly surprised; ratchet belts are super comfortable and can be adjusted without the need for holes. Think of them like sneakers, and you won’t go wrong.

Generally speaking, the best size for each type of wear depends largely on what feels right; you could be one size in one brand, and a different size in another. You could also wear a different size with your suit or jeans. Don’t be scared to try on different styles of belts too. Different belts can make you look slender around the middle, and shave inches off your waistline.

Picking A Genuine Leather Belt

There’s a reason leather belts are so popular; they last. Unlike other fabrics that wear away with daily use, leather stands up to a beating and can last decades with nothing more than a touch of polish here and there. The main question you ought to be asking is simple: is genuine leather real leather. In a pop quiz, most guys get this one wrong. Here’s why.

Genuine leather is a lot like fool’s gold and doesn’t actually mean the leather is real, or that it will last as long as a high-quality and real leather belt. Genuine leather is simply the lowest grade that a product can be sold as leather with; these tend to have a lesser quality appearance and will always be the lowest priced of all leather belts.

Top-grain leather is the mid-range option and is a great choice for most men. Top-grain leather has a much more attractive and quality look than genuine leather, without the price tag of real leather. Full-grain leather takes the entire grain of hide, with all the imperfections and inherent toughness of the material.

And real leather, as noted, is the highest quality leather you can buy. This is the one you will covet the most because it acts, smells, and lasts like leather ought to. Expect to pay top retail dollar for this kind of leather, but for that investment, you will get a lifetime of wear. Real leather is often handcrafted and will stand up to the weather, and daily use, without flinching.

What is a blended leather, and why should I avoid it? Blended leather (bonded leather), as these are scraps of leather pieced together. Patent leather is another one to avoid and is easily recognizable by its shiny, glossy finish. And finally, corrected grain leather, which is a method of faking higher-quality leather by imprinting a leather grain into sub-par leather.

Some people also ask, “What is Western leather?” These feature cowhide leather and may be branded with cowboy emblems, to give an authentic Western appearance. You might see these worn in the South or at a rodeo than at your local grocery store. Or, “what is a ranger belt?” Again, this is a specialty belt that originates in Texas and is worn by Texas Rangers in their uniform.

What Do You Match Your Belt With?

Now that you have your belt picked out, and have the correct style, fit, and design for your needs, it’s time to figure out the final piece of the puzzle: what do you match your belt with? I’ve heard people say your shoes and wallets should match your belts or that you can wear black and brown leathers together, but I wanted to get a definitive answer.

And, in true fashion, there is no one-size-fits-all, but there is what works for me. For dark leather, I stick to black leather belts. As jeans get progressively lighter, you can start adding in tan or brown leather for a more relaxed and casual look. Black belts tend to look more formal, and with dark jeans, turn a look from day to night seamlessly.

If you are wondering if you can wear a brown belt with black shoes, I have great news. Yes, you can, but there is one little caveat – you want the brown and black to be as close in tone as possible. By pairing a dark brown and black leather belt with shoes, you will create a more pulled-together look. A light brown and black leather will clash, and distract from your overall aesthetic.

Similarly, if you are wondering, do your shoes have to match your belt, the answer is no. Being strict with style rules means you lose personality. The trick here is to choose shoes and belts that have a complimentary theme. So, for example, it’s easy to pair a western belt with Western boots, but you can make this look more wearable by paring Western boots with a real leather belt for a more chic look.And finally, for those of you who are wondering what color belt to wear with khaki pants or chinos, it’s best to stick with tan leather belts. In these cases, a black belt sticks out like a sore thumb. Again, the complimentary rule is at play; you can layer up similar leathers, colors, and fabrics throughout an outfit to create an interesting juxtaposition that is less store-bought and more stylish.

What A Guy Needs To Own

So, as you may have noticed, no one bel tis sufficient for most men. What I like to do is cover the bases with a few solid choices that can be mixed and matched with what I like to wear. As I wear a lot of suits, I tend to stick with tan and black leather belts that can also be worn with light and dark denim jeans. If you are a casual dresser, consider woven belts and other fabrics that impart personality.

As a rule, leather is King, and I always recommend that you have at least one real leather belt for those important events, like interviews, weddings, and for pairing with suits. Designer belts, such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Versace, are reliable sources for real leather. This is one of the few purchasing decisions I make where brands influence me strongly; you don’t want to waste money on fake leather.

If you want to streamline your closet, I’ll leave you on this bombshell – many belt buckles can be taken off and switched out for a different buckle. Similarly, no one says your belt must be new. You can get really unique and interesting vintage belts, or custom made belts from thrift shops and tailors. My go to brands when starting a new collection are Beltology and Trafalgar.

Finally; what is a good price for a belt? I’m going to leave this one wide open and with good reason. It all depends on the quality of the leather, how often you use the belt, and what you expect in quality. I’ve been as happy with a $20 belt as I have with a $200 belt. But do remember, an expensive belt can make a lesser outfit look phenomenal. A great outfit can’t be polished with a cheap looking belt.

You are what you wear; this is never more true than on the first meeting when we are subject to scruitiny and laws of attraction. Don’t fail the litmus test of men’s fashion; learn how to choose the best belt for any outfit in five simple steps. Victor Macias, the founder of Male Standard, believes that everyman can look and feel like the best version of himself by paying attention to the details. For hands-on grooming tips, tricks, and more style suggestions, please visit MaleStandard.com.

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