I'm new and learning a lot thru reading posts on this site. I have a roosa master fuel injection pump. Wanting to install a new 16320 pilot tube.
Stanadyne service bulletin says use epoxy p/n 40737 or epoxy kit p/n 40739. If I must use this epoxy, where can I get it, or will loctite 620 sleeve
retaining compound suffice? Appreciate any HELP.

Get the two part Armstrong epoxy kit. I've seen tubes put in with Loctite that never sealed BETWEEN the pilot tube OD and the housing bore ID, allowing fuel past the tube and ending up in the crankcase.

The Armstrong kit can be purchased from their website BUT>>
its expensive.. especially w/ the little dabs your going to use..
I think the last kit I bought was 62.00 incl. tax. + shipping..
That being said.. its some good stuff..
I've seen the 2prt 15 min. locktite work, but theres no guarantees..
Stanadyne sells it in a gun & cartridge form now.. & jacked up the price to DOUBLE that of the original set.
What a RIP OFF..
With the cost of the "glue", the kit, the special tools & additional parts that are needed to do a proper o/h,
& THEN theres the "I don't know if its even gonna work" factor..why not just let someone do it for ya??
DT or myself have a combined OVER 60 years experience rebuilding them..

The epoxy from Stanadyne melts when heated a little over 350 degrees F, just like any other 2-part liquid epoxy you're going to find at Walmart or Home Depot. I have been doing pumps for over 40 years and have yet to have a pilot tube leak or come loose after I glued it in.

I have used locktight many times, and seen a few fail. What product you use isnt as important as the fact you pressure test it when done. Even the best job will sometimes leak. ALWAYS test. This doenst fit the one hour tail gate repair people and is one reason a repair shop that is fair priced isnt really that expensive. I have re/repaired my share of pumps over the years that were home fix jobs that didnt turn out the best. Just the cost of fresh oil and a filter, plus your time to r+r the pump and pull it done again for a leaking pilot tube offsets a lions share of a cost a honest pumpman would charge. A one year full warranty is nice also. Al

What does "used Locktight and seen it fail" mean? Loctite is just a brand-name for many different products. Your claim is meaningless unless you tell us exactly what sort of Loctite product failed? Loctite sells thread-locker, sleeve-retainer,
and over 12 different types of two-part epoxy.

I am sorry for my misleading post. I am not endorsing any one product over an other for pilot tube sealing. I am making the statement to ALWAYS pressure test a pump after replacing the pilot tube. TEST never GUESS. Al

Thanks for the replies. Still looking at two part epoxies that would do the job. Any recommendations as to brands to use? Yes Armstrong is expensive. Easily removed the old tube and cleaned the housing. Need to pick an epoxy!

I am not privy to who actually determines who is "in the know" and who is not.

I also have no idea what all ?tailgate rebuilders? prefer.

I will say this. Armstrong sells over 30 different types of Epoxy. If someone wants to recommend Armstrong, and is "in the know" - how about citing which specific Armstrong epoxy?

I see Loctite 15 minute two-part epoxy mentioned. Note that is one of the weaker Loctite epoxys. Loctite Clear Multi-purpose is stronger and has higher heat-resistance.

Loctite also makes 6 or 7 different types of "Retaining Compound." #620 has a higher heat rating then any epoxy I know of at 450 degrees F, along with 3800 PSI strength. I suspect that far exceeds anything Stanadyne furnishes as an epoxy. The epoxy from Stanadyne melts at 350 degrees F. That is so you can easily heat a pump housing and get out the old bushing.

While I'm sure there are several products that would do the job, I've always used the Armstrong two part A-12 per Stanadyne's recommendation. I prefer to bake them an hour or so at 150 degrees in a toaster oven to speed up curing time, that way pump can be checked out on the bench faster.

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