Glazed Over

I've recently spent a ton of money building a custom table out of red oak ply with inlaid black granite tiles in the center. The table looked AMAZING....until I decided that I was going to Super Glaze it to protect the surface. I did not glaze the tile (can I?). However, my main problem is that it is currently over a month later and about 30% of my table is still not dry. Why? On top of all that, the glaze has ripples and bubbles, and looks like garbage over that 30%. How do I save my investment?

I followed the directions on the box explicitly. Further, my table is currently sitting in my dining room drying. My plan was to just add some more Glaze to even out the surface and call it quits. Is that a bad plan?

There are a lot of brands out there that have the name "Super Glaze", but I'm going by the fact that since you put it on your custom wood table that you got it from your local Home Depot. The Super Glaze by Parks correct?

The Super Glaze is a two part epoxy that takes (like you said) reading the box carefully and thoroughly for putting on properly. That 30% of the table that is not drying properly can be caused by several factors.

Generally one thick coat or just one coat is applied, this product is best used in thin successive layers, like any paint coating

If the glaze resin was poured more than 1/8" thick and not in layers

The glaze resin was not mixed properly for these areas, or mixed thoroughly

The room where you let the table sit in could of had a temperature change, causing those areas to fail

The ripples you are seeing can be avoided, but can be remedied by smoothing them out as soon as you seen them forming (within 30 mins of application)

The bubbles are usually caused from mixing the parts together in a hurry or improperly. Those bubbles will disperse through the top layer (if it's thin enough) leaving a nice glossy smooth surface area. About 20-30 minutes after pouring, you can gently blow on the surface where ever stubborn bubbles are found..They should pop easily.

The Super Glaze can fail due to the above factors, but it can be fixed! Hopefully the tackiness of the existing areas didn't trap any dust from the dining room. If the tacky areas look to be clean, follow these tips below....

The beauty of Super Glaze that we sell is that since it is a binary and epoxy formula, if you pour more of it on there, it will and can react to the layers underneath it, causing the final pour to come out looking clear and like it was store-bought.

So, if I were in your situation....Grab any more of the Super Glaze if you have any left. Try a small area to test on the bad bubble/ripples area, like say a 3 inch by 3 inch test area. Apply the glaze carefully and smoothly, you should be able to see the new coat activating the (bubbly) coat underneath it.

Super Glaze isn't typically done on granite tiles, so I would wait until you apply the red oak first before moving onto that. It won't harm the granite, but the granite at minimum needs to be sealed and can be sealed with a gloss/wet look finish rather than Super Glaze. Glazing the tile is up to you, but typically I have seen granite sealers put down on top of it.

Glaze epoxy products are unlike other coatings where you have to prep the surface by scuffing or sanding the area down, since Super Glaze can be just poured on. Wait overnight to see if the areas have hardened to your liking. As for the granite tiles, hold off on those until you get the desired results you want from the wood, since it is an investment you've already put so much into.

If you cover the entire area, it can work for you. However, experiment with just those two little areas and see if this should do the trick for your table. In fact, let us know the results and post some pictures of your custom table, it sounds amazing!

I too am having issues (yes we mixed according to the instructions) of this product harding. We assume we poured on to thick and that was reason for stickiness in some areas. Pour second top (i have two seperate cabinets) 1/8th this time almost 24 hours later still tacky.

From what you stated in your message, I will have to say that from you pouring on thePark's Super Glaze too thick most likely is the culprit here. As long as you follow the instructions step-by-step very carefully including applying it indoors at room temperature, you should have very little problems. However, if it was applied too thick, the product will give you undesired results.

As for it being damaged before you purchased it, if there was no visible damage to the packaging and contents, the unmixed parts should be unaffected.

Just as I stated earlier on this thread, the instructions are imperative to getting you the best results for the glaze. You may have to unfortunately re-sand/refinish the surface. I know it sounds like extra work, but it would be better than having the bigger problem of your glaze not drying completely, if ever.

Please update us on your progress, or if you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

I built an oregon state vs. oregon football field beer pong table. I poured the Parks Super Glaze yesterday on the table, I used 4 boxes. Everything turned out great except I have some sticky spots. Will these sticky spots go away or should I just get some more and put another coat on? I am hoping to try the table out this saturday. Thanks

Some people will use a small blow torch like you'd use for browning creme brulee for removing the bubbles. On another site, Instructables.com, I saw a post about using an epoxy glaze, like all of you have mentioned, to glaze pennies to a desktop.

Start reading here, Step 6. Step 9, they talk about using the torch for the bubbles.

Just saw your message this morning and I thought I would chime into your beer pong table debacle. I hope it is usable since it is Saturday today.

As I stated earlier on this thread with previous users, the sticky spots of the your table can be due to several factors, like apply the epoxy too thick in those areas, to even improper mixing.

Refer to the eariler posts on this thread, you may have to refinish the table or at least in spots. I hope you get the results you like for your table, as this epoxy can take the abuse of what you guys dish out on it.

If the epoxy was mixed thoroughly, the thickness of application will have nothing to do with areas remaining sticky. This is a chemical reaction. The components must be completely mixed and allowed a few minutes to blend together.

If you still have sticky spots after 24 hours, try either moving the piece to a much warmer area, or aiming an infra-red heat lamp at the sticky areas. Heat will help complete the re-action. By these re-actions, heat accelerates the re-action, cold will stop it. The mixed components, if put in the refrigerator, will still be liquid hours later. Conversely, on a hot day, the re-action and hardening will be much faster.

I completely sympathize with what you're experiencing with your table. I'm in exactly the same situation with this Glaze, (with air bubbles, ripply surface, NOT dry after a long period of time) and am not entirely sure what to do about it. In a different discussion forum on another site someone said to lay another (thin) coat over the top, as your message had said, but I tried that, and it didn't seem to work very well...that same site said that usually the situation that we're both in results as a function of not mixing the two solutions long enough together and that apparently it needs to be mixed somewhat longer than the box says. :/

I am currently at a bit of a standstill and sad about the tv tables, as I had sealed them and then laid shapes and cutouts over the tops, applying park's glaze in the hopes that it would seal them in...I have wondered if there's as way to remove it somehow and just start over with a different product, or start again?