In a country caught in the perpetual contradiction between cultural fundamentalism and large scale hyper-rapid modernization, is it even meaningful to characterize the door to reform as “open” or “closed”? I’d say it’s closer to a revolving door. Change trickles inexorably through– usually not of the kind that was desired or even expected– and oblivious of any of the efforts, by government or anyone else, to either encourage or regulate it.