The No. 1 rule for buying real estate (OK, maybe not in this market) also tops the list for buying green gifts this holiday season.

Take that lovely robe of organic cotton made by folks who receive a fair wage. It would make a great "sustainable" holiday gift for your husband or niece. But if it comes to the Bay Area from some far-flung locale, the transportation costs probably squeeze the eco-friendly right out of it.

"When it comes to buying things, you have to weigh what the important issues are to you."

Buying goods locally isn't new, of course. Waves of community-supported agriculture have crested many times over the years. And any small store that has tried to compete with the Wal-Marts of the world urges its consumers to spend money within the community.

With a faltering economy and a new focus on the emission-spewing role of global transportation, however, being a "locavore" seems to count for even more.

"We're getting double-whammied here this Christmas," Griggs Lawrence said. "There's a big turn from glitzy to pragmatic with what's going on. It's not cool to be too flashy right now."

Marie Biscarra certainly hopes shoppers take Griggs Lawrence's advice to heart. Biscarra is co-owner of Issosf, a local chain of two stores that sell goods "made, found or designed" in the Bay Area. A typical item might be a 1960s dress found in a nearby thrift store, cleaned, repaired and modernized, with a shorter hem or without sleeves. Depending on whether it's casual or dressy, the dress would run between about $38 and $98.

Biscarra, whose stores are in Noe Valley and the Mission, eschews so-called "fast fashion" - poorly made clothes meant to be tossed after one season.

"It's beyond just selling clothes that will last. We're trying to support each other in the Bay Area. The concept is about having fun, sustainability, educating people and spreading the word."

Paying attention to where those designer jeans come from, however, is just the beginning. Griggs Lawrence outlines five other steps when evaluating shades of greenness:

-- What were the by-products of the manufacturing process? Was it mined, were environmental resources destroyed to access it?

-- How is it delivered? Does it involve extra transportation or labor costs to install?

-- How is it made, maintained, operated? ("Even if it's not something inherently green," Griggs Lawrence says, "it's better if it's durable and will last forever as opposed to something you throw away.")

-- How healthy is the product? Does it contain toxic adhesives or chemicals such as formaldehyde?

-- Finally, the cradle-to-cradle question. What happens when its useful life has ended? Is it biodegradable, recyclable, reusable?

More and more, it seems, consumers are trying to extend those product lifecycles. Witness the rise of sites such as Freecycle.org, whose 12,000-member-strong San Francisco branch is growing by 120 each month at last count. The site is an online community where folks post and pick up stuff - strictly for free - that usually would end up in the recycling bin or the local dump.

In addition to Griggs Lawrence's tips, Scot Chase of environmental marketing firm TerraChoice has compiled a list of the "six sins of greenwashing," which include the "sin of no proof." That is, an environmental claim that can't be verified by a third party or that does not have easily accessible verification.

Close behind is the "sin of vagueness," for instance labels that say "chemical-free" or "all natural." As TerraChoice makes clear on its Web site, arsenic, mercury and uranium occur naturally - but all are poisonous. Another warning signal: Products that make an environmental claim that may be accurate but irrelevant. Here's a good one: a hair spray or window cleaner that trumpets the fact that it's free of chlorofluorocarbons, or CFCs, one of the main culprits of ozone depletion.

9 tips for buying green

1. Reduce your consumerism this season through creative, thoughtful alternatives.

2. Purchase items with less packaging, like gift cards and handmade goods.

3. Instead of buying something, buy someone an experience - cooking lessons, a massage, music lessons, a subscription to a Community Supported Agriculture box of produce or even a nice dinner out.

4. Buy gifts that are produced locally or made by local artists. Great places to get local gifts are craft fairs, farmers' markets and boutique stores. Buying local goods reduces transportation emissions and also invests money in your community.

7. With EPA's Acid Rain program and NOx Budget Trading Program, you can purchase SO{-2} (sulfur dioxide) or Nox (nitrogen oxides) allowances to mitigate acid rain. You can also purchase renewable energy certificates.

8. Reusable bags are not just for grocery shopping; bring them to department stores as well. Avoid excessive tissue paper or wrapping paper that is not made from 100 percent postconsumer recycled paper.

9. If considering gifts like chocolate, wine or other goods, purchase items that are organic and fair-trade certified.