tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213Mon, 10 Jul 2017 01:15:08 +0000winefoodfrancemeyer lemonsparistravelBBQchocolatecookcookingcuisinefoodbuzzherbsitalymalbecmarin farmers marketolive oilorganicslow foodsteak#SFN08Al FornoAlabamaArgentinaBelgiumBife de LomoBlue HillBottegaBrady BunchBuenos AiresBuitoniCarrie PrejeanChandonChesapeake BayDreamlandEva PeronEvitaFerrari-CarranoFlorenceHawaiiHawaiian Regional CookingIna GartenInto The WildKobe BeefKona CoffeeLa Grande-PlaceLondonMannekin PisMarin Open Garden ProjectMcEvoy RanchMichael ChiarelloNapaStylePanioloPernodPink SaltProvencePulled PorkRoy YamaguchiSarah PalinSmoki-O'sThe Omnivore's DilemmaTokyoTorrontesTuscanyTyler FlorenceTyler Florence Mill ValleyVeuve ClicquotVirginiaadriaagnolottiartichokesarzakbalsamicbarcelonabeansbilbaoblackberriesbraisingbrusselsburratacabernetcassouletchampagnecherrieschilechimichurri saucechipotlechivescoffeecrabcrab cakecreamcreme bruleecremini mushroomscrock potdessertdry rubduck confitedible Marin and Wine Countryeggescaroleespressofast foodfigfleur de selfrenchgoat cheesegranitagray saltgritsguggenheimheirloom tomatolambleonardo da vincimadridmarmalademusselsomeletosso bucopancettaparsnippavlovapeachespiepizzapopolentaprosciuttoprovencalerisottorisotto milaneseromesaladsangriascallopssconesscotlandsevillasheperds pieshrimpsingle maltslow cookerslow food nationspainsproutsstrawberriesstrawberrytacoteathymetortillatulipsvealwhiskyChefectomyPointed comments, laughter and recipes for people who love to cook and travel.http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/noreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)Blogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-3692896397112477068Mon, 31 Aug 2009 01:48:00 +00002009-08-31T13:50:55.123-07:00blackberriesedible Marin and Wine CountryInto The WildMarin Open Garden Projectmeyer lemonsorganicpavlovaslow foodThe Omnivore's DilemmaSurvival of the Fittest - Wild Blackberry Pavlova with Meyer Lemon Cream<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SptfTYpZZkI/AAAAAAAABEE/okarnxkZZaw/s1600-h/DSC_0103.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375995366835054146" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 303px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 212px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SptfTYpZZkI/AAAAAAAABEE/okarnxkZZaw/s320/DSC_0103.JPG" border="0" /></a> <div>"Get out of my way" she barked at me. Something whizzed past my head. I turned quickly and ducked under the leaves, instinctively kicking a vine loose. It was full of <b>skin tearing thorns</b>. I manuevered to escape. Sweating under the foliage my arm was scraped and stung in pain. I looked down seeing streaks of red. My hands looked blood soaked.</div><div><br /></div><div>This wasn't a scene from "Lord of the Flies". Or an episode of "Survivor". My daughter and I were madly jockeying to get the best position in a thicket of wild and thorny blackberry vines. We were racing to see who could pick the most of this stain inducing <b>juicy </b><b>wild fruit</b> just steps away from San Francisco Bay.</div><div><br /></div><div>What drove us to this condition was a recent awareness of being able to source and grow food locally. Organically and sustainably. Several years ago the word "organic" shot into the mainstream like "Nintendo". Certainly for all the right reasons (mostly) but the evolution of organic has become something of an embarassment. The term (and industry) has been substantially taken over by big agri-business. "Organic" used to mean food that was grown and sold locally by <b>crunchy granola people</b>. You know what I mean by this. Bay Area hippies and peaceniks that made food a social statement. That always left a bad taste in my mouth (literally and figuratively).</div><div><br /></div><div>Organic is supposed to mean food that is grown without pesticides and with minimal impact to the land that produces it. This is a process that, until the last 60 years, occurred regularly and naturally since the beginning of mankind. No flying the food in "fresh" from <b>different time zones</b> across the globe. When a cucumber has to "clear customs" or a tomato needs to have its "passport stamped" that's not fresh. It's big business. Apples from New Zealand. Grapes from Chile. More often than not it just doesn't taste as good as food you can buy that is grown (or found) locally. Our ancestors knew this but somehow we seemed to have forgotten.</div><div><br /></div><div>The business of food and where it comes from is rapidly becoming front and center as a major issue the United States is just starting to contend with. Unthinkable just a decade ago, where your food comes from and how you get it is now a mainstream topic of conversation. The growing worldwide movement of "<a href="http://www.slowfood.com/">Slow Food</a>" led by such luminaries as Alice Waters of Chez Panisse fame, as well as best selling treatises such as <a href="http://www.michaelpollan.com/omnivore.php">"The Omnivore's Dilemma"</a> by Michael Pollan, has pushed the sourcing and production of food into a <b>major political issue</b>. And First Lady Michelle Obama has moved awareness even further forward, growing an edible garden on the White House grounds. The awareness of where our food comes from is now a complex dance at the forefront of the American conversation. And I am glad to see it.</div><div><br /></div><div>I'll admit that as much as I have always been involved with good food, cooking and eating, I never gave much thought to where it comes from and how we get it until recently. And I should point out that I am not against large scale production of food to some degree. I am fortunate that I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, one of the top food producing regions in the world. In this part of the country local farmers and producers are <b>honored and paid</b> accordingly for the food they produce. It's expensive but worth it. Much of this local bounty is talked about in the fantastic publication <a href="http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/">edible Marin and Wine Country</a>. It's also worth pointing out the other side of the issue. Not every place has the ability to produce a wide range of food providing variety and sustenance.</div><div><br /></div><div>All that said, it is nice to see some middle ground on the issue. A little awareness of where your food comes from, how it got to your plate and what it means when you make specific choices</div><div>because we all "vote with our wallet" is never a bad thing. There seems to be a bit of hysteria in the ether when people have an issue with being criticized because they eat Twinkies and Big Macs and think that such talk is a left wing takeover of American rights. No need to act like a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neanderthal">Neanderthal</a> and waltz around the issue. Or to <b>start strapping firearms</b> onto your body as a public display of your 2nd Amendment rights. It's just not food. Understand the arguments for and against both sides and then make your culinary choices intelligently.</div><div><br /></div><div>Earlier this year two women in the community I live in started a locally grown food exchange. The <a href="http://opengardenproject.blogspot.com/">Marin Open Garden Project</a> is a simple and clever idea that I hope catches on across the country. The idea is simple and serves several purposes. A lot of people grow food, some for pleasure, others out of necessity and still others unknowingly (got a fruit tree in your yard). All of that food is local. And generally sustainable and organic. The problem is that sometimes you have too much of a good thing. What do you do with all those plums and tomatoes if you can't eat them yourself? I never gave this much thought in the past. Anytime we had fruit growing on a tree 90% of it would fall to the <b>ground to rot</b> and never to be eaten. Simply wasted. The one exception being my Fuerte avocado tree at our home in San Diego. It has its own fan club and every single fruit is eaten, but I digress.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's incredible how much food that is grown never gets eaten. The Marin Open Garden Project helps to solve this problem nicely. Every weekend locals get together for an hour and bring their own home grown <b>food to trade</b> for other edibles. Not only is the food not wasted but you get to meet and interact with people in your community on a very personal level that you would normally not connect with. Add to that the wonderful side benefit of taking home a variety of freshly grown food and it's one of the most fulfilling 60 minutes you'll spend all week. MOGP will even arrange to have your fruit trees professionally picked with the abundance donated to those in need. Nothing wasted and you don't have to do anything except call them to arrange it. </div><div><br /></div><div>This weekend we took home some beautiful home raised chicken eggs raised by a local family. When we got home we sauteed up some zucchini growing in our backyard and some sweet 100 cherry tomatoes (we had traded some for the eggs) for the perfect omelet filling. Topped with some garden fresh basil, I am telling you right now that <b>nothing tasted better</b> than this. Fresh. Flavorful. There was no stench of big business "Twinkie" here. </div><div><br /></div><div>Later in the afternoon we rode our bikes around Tiburon, an upscale bayside enclave of seven figure homes and beautiful scenery that looks across San Francisco Bay. Wild blackberry bushes grow everywhere and the fruit is there for the taking. We thought "why not pick these and do</div><div>something with this local, organic and beautiful fruit?". OK, this was a bit <a href="http://www.intothewild.com/">"Into The Wild"</a> and I'll tell you right now I have no plans to drop out of society and <b>forage for food</b> as a statement against big agri-business. But there is something very satisfying and right about harvesting your own food, growing it, trading it, and cooking it without having to have gone to the market and potentially buying something that came from another continent. It's somewhat primal but in a measured, culinary way.</div><div><br /></div><div>We needed something simple yet elegant to help display this fresh fruit grab at its best. A simple berry pavlova, an import from Australia and New Zealand (a national dish with a history of fierce debate between the two countries as to who invented this fabulous dessert) filled the bill. Named after the famous Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, this is the perfect backdrop for summertime fruits that needs little attention to put their <b>best foot forward</b>. One of our neighbors grows Meyer lemons year round and lets anyone come into his yard to take what they need. Following the spirit of the fruit exchange we created this fantastic wild blackberry pavlova, complimented with a Meyer lemon whipped cream. Simple. Local. Organic...A Grand Jete of flavor that is so simple, even a caveman can do it.</div><div><br /></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375976181346948450" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 302px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 202px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SptN2pIlVWI/AAAAAAAABD8/PQiGzOyMA2E/s320/DSC_0069.JPG" border="0" /></div><div><b>Wild Blackberry Pavlova</b></div><div><b>with Meyer Lemon Cream</b></div><div>Serves 4</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Ingredients</b></div><div><br /></div><div>4 egg whites, room temperature</div><div>1/4 tsp salt</div><div>1/4 tsp cream of tartar</div><div>1 C sugar</div><div>4 T cornstarch</div><div>2 T Distilled White Vinegar</div><div>1 tsp vanilla extract</div><div>1 C heavy whipping cream</div><div>1-2 T Meyer lemon juice (can use regular lemon as a substitute)</div><div>2 tsp lemon zest</div><div>2 pints of blackberries, hulled</div><div>2-3 T sugar</div><div>Additional lemon juice</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Method</b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>To make the Pavlova Meringue</b></div><div>Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Beat the egg whites, salt and cream of tartar together in a bowl until the egg whites form stiff peaks. Gradually add the sugar, beating until the meringue becomes glossy. Add the cornstarch, vinegar and vanilla, mixing to combine.</div><div><br /></div><div>Butter a cakepan or springform mold, or simply use a baking sheet and spoon the meringue in free form shape, with more meringue around the sides to form a rim. Bake for 1 hour. Shut off oven and open the door slightly, letting the Pavlova cool for 30 minutes.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>To make the Meyer Lemon Cream</b></div><div>Beat the whipping cream and 1 TBSP sugar using an electric hand mixer for 2-3 minutes until the whipped cream sets up and begins to firm. Add 1-2 TBSP lemon juice to taste. Stir in 2 tsp lemon zest.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>To make the blackberries</b></div><div>In a bowl combine the blackberries, 2-3 TBSP sugar and 1 TBSP lemon juice. Stir to combine and let sit for 5 minutes.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>To Assemble the Pavlova</b></div><div>Remove the meringue from the baking pan and place on a serving platter. Cover the center of the meringue with 1/2 cup of the meyer lemon whipped cream. Top with the blackberries. Cut into wedges and serve with additional whip cream and berries on the side.</div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/08/survival-of-fittest-wild-blackberry.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-4546862485049588977Mon, 20 Jul 2009 03:25:00 +00002009-07-19T20:30:56.107-07:00Brady BunchHawaiiHawaiian Regional CookingKona CoffeePanioloPink SaltRoy YamaguchisteakTasting the Volcano – Kona Coffee Rubbed Steak with Hawaiian Pink Salt<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SmPQrDu_zvI/AAAAAAAABAU/0N1M7qiQ2Ro/s1600-h/DSC_0038.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360357419656400626" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 281px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 208px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SmPQrDu_zvI/AAAAAAAABAU/0N1M7qiQ2Ro/s320/DSC_0038.JPG" border="0" /></a>Earth. Fire. Water. Air. A volcano erupts and lava spews into the sky. Giant waves crash down on a salted and sandy island shore rolling with the mist of rainforests. Massive animals roam among a wild range. The intensity of all of this would be too much for the average tourist visiting Waikiki in shorts and sandals while wearing colored socks. This isn’t the <b>beginning of time</b> however. Or a bad luau in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 /><st1:city st="on"><st1:place st="on">Honolulu</st1:place></st1:city>. Or even a tiki inspired <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdMxHZo0Rqk">Brady Bunch episode</a> for that matter. I am talking about combining the unique ingredients of Hawaiian grown Kona coffee and volcanic pink salt as a flavorful rub to coat a thick grilled steak.<br /><br />If you have never been to <st1:state st="on"><st1:place st="on">Hawaii,</st1:place></st1:state> you need to go. Not for the beautiful beaches, mind you. Nor the exploration of the magnificent volcanoes at Kiluaea or <st1:place st="on">Mauna Loa</st1:place>. You can even skip the touristically expensive luaus in Honolulu serving forgettable poi and teriyaki “whatever was cheapest at the market that day”. Although I would be hard pressed to defend that the only reason to go to <st1:state st="on"><st1:place st="on">Hawaii</st1:place></st1:state> is the food…I would be close. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal">Hawaiian regional cooking</b> is fairly unknown, yet simply unparalleled in regional American cooking. Cajun food? Oh, I love that. But quite frankly it’s just not as good. Northeastern clam bakes, crab cakes, lobster rolls and other Atlantic seafood delicacies? Not that I would ever say no to that region' s best fare either. But it isn’t overly exotic, which oddly, matters in this instance. <st1:place st="on">Southern BBQ</st1:place>? Certainly well understood and made with a lot of passion. And it gets my vote for our country’s culinary national treasure. But none of this uniquely American cooking compares to what you can get in <st1:state st="on"><st1:place st="on">Hawaii</st1:place></st1:state>.<br /><div><div><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal">A chain of islands formed in the Pacific Ocean millions of years ago from undersea volcanoes, <st1:state st="on">Hawaii</st1:state> is an archipelago considered part of <st1:place st="on">Polynesia with a culture that is truly it's own</st1:place>. What makes it so special to the food world is the natural abundance of land and aquatic agriculture that represents the islands. Setting aside the amazing climate, which is what draws all those hibiscus flower printed shirt and sock clad sandal visitors, the key driver to the success of the region’s growing ability is its soil. Rich volcanic ash and lava that provides a growing medium like no other. And you can truly taste it. Deep. Dark. Clean. Rich. Vegetables have a <span style="font-size:0;"></span><b>fresh and intense </b>flavor that is literally unmatched. And I do not say that lightly given the food growing and eating haven in Marin County where I currently live. Hawaiian grown tomatoes served with raw sweet onions from the islands are sensational. And with the natural abundance of seafood in the middle of the world’s greatest ocean, well let’s just say that the “fish option” on any menu rules in the <st1:place st="on">Islands</st1:place>. If you have never understood the interest in the "local" cooking movement sweeping the world right now, a meal at a well selected restaurant in Hawaii will make you understand.</p><p class="MsoNormal">All of this said, it’s <st1:state st="on"><st1:place st="on">Hawaii</st1:place></st1:state>’s relatively unknown “Cowboy Culture” that made me see the light to this unique American regional cooking approach. Here lies a rich ranching and cowboy tradition dating back more than 200 years in the Big Island’s “upcountry”. Cattle roam the open range, eating volcanically grown grass high up in the hills away from the shoreline. <a href="http://www.bigisland.org/activities-cultural/464/history-of-paniolo-ranching-on-hawaiis-big-island">Paniolos</a>, which are Hawaiian cowboys that settled the area after John Parker, a ship wrecked American, found favor with King Kamehameha in the early 1800’s. Parker was able to convince Mexican Vaqueros to come to the islands and teach the locals how to ranch. Horses were literally referred to as “Canoes on land” by the island natives. We visited the upcountry on a previous trip to <st1:state st="on">Hawaii</st1:state>, leaving behind the beautiful <st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on">Kohala</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">Coast</st1:placetype></st1:place> and white sandy beaches for a trip up to the mountains an hour a way. A pleasant surprise, we enjoyed learning about Parker Ranch and the rich free range ranching traditions that evolved over a relatively short time here given the <b>ancient and exotic</b> island beach culture commonly associated with Hawaii.</p><p class="MsoNormal">I digress temporarily away from regional cooking and cattle ranching to say that I have a love affair with coffee that requires <b>counseling and medication</b>. I actually don’t love coffee. I live for it, as I have written about previously <strong><a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/my-dreamespresso-granita-con-panna.html">here</a></strong>. Don't give me weak American brewed Sanka or I'll curse you to a fate worse than Greg, Peter and Bobby dealt with in the Tiki episode above. Or lock you in a room with Don Ho crooning "Tiny Bubbles" over and over. And over. Nothing in my mind is better than the coffee grown on the Kona Coast of Hawaii. Rich. Decadent. Deep. It tastes of the volcanoes. The aroma is ancient. Similar for me to wine in a sense. I enjoy smelling it as much as tasting it. It is an experience. </p><p class="MsoNormal">We have a tendency to think of coffee as only something to drink. It turns out coffee is a phenomenal and versatile ingredient that is very misunderstood in the world of cooking. Although not the first to introduce the concept into popular culture, Roy Yamaguchi, widely credited as one of the major forces behind launching Hawaiian regional cuisine, and the founder of <st1:city st="on"><st1:place st="on"><a href="http://www.roysrestaurant.com/">Roy</a></st1:place></st1:city><a href="http://www.roysrestaurant.com/">’s Restaurants</a>, a rare global chain with serious cooking chops, regularly uses coffee in his cuisine. I was introduced to his incorporation of it when I curiously spotted a Kona Coffee Crusted Rack of Lamb on his menu on a separate trip to <st1:place st="on">Maui some years back</st1:place>. It sounded so exotic. And when it arrived at the table I devoured it. Not realizing I was actually doing my best Meg Ryan impersonation, a vocally passionate interlude in front of Billy Crystal in “When Harry Met Sally”, except in this case I was wearing a bad Hawaiian shirt. Not pretty, I realize, plus my wife was annoyed. Not about the attempt at besting Ms. Ryan in such a public setting mind you, but for the fact that I didn't leave her a bite of this marvelous dish. Rich and deep, the lamb would have not offered its best had the coffee ground crust not been present.</p><p class="MsoNormal">From the Paniolo country on the Big Island we drove to <st1:place st="on">Kilauea</st1:place>, on the south side. An active volcano in the middle of the amazing <a href="http://www.nps.gov/havo">Hawai'i </a><st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on"><a href="http://www.nps.gov/havo">Volcanoes</a></st1:placename><a href="http://www.nps.gov/havo"> </a><st1:placetype st="on"><a href="http://www.nps.gov/havo">National Park</a></st1:placetype></st1:place><a href="http://www.nps.gov/havo">,</a> we toured the area learning of domes, lava tubes, Pele - the goddess of fire and protector of the volcano, and taking in prehistoric views that were breathtaking. We had an early evening dinner at the park’s restaurant sitting on the edge of the volcano’s rim, a glorious fiery sunset enveloping the glass views surrounding us. My wife and I ordered the prime rib roasted in Hawaiian Pink Salt. This salt is a high quality ingredient with touches of salinity and volcanic ash, bringing out the best of the high quality local beef. On its own, this salt is <b>a magnificent ingredient</b>. A real treat to use for a basic salt crusted prime rib.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Now, my eight year old daughter is a ravenous meat eater. If she had roamed the earth during the Jurrassic period, Tyrannasaurus Rex would have fled her in fear. She ate most of our dinner that night, nashing her teeth as we tried to steal a taste of this fabulous prime rib offering. </p><p class="MsoNormal">With the global financial meltdown erupting all around us consumers can currently get very high quality “prime” grade beef for a bargain. Even the Wall Street Journal is commenting on this interesting gauge of consumer spending as it relates to the current <a href="http://online.wsj.com/article_email/SB10001424052970204423804574286451880334042-lMyQjAxMDA5MDEwNTExNDUyWj.html">state of the economy</a>. I created this version of a coffee crusted grilled steak combining finely ground Kona coffee and Hawaiian pink salt into a rub with a richness of depth that <b>shows off the meat</b> to its fullest. I will say that while I used Hawaiian ingredients for this recipe, you don't have to. Just buy a good coffee bean and use kosher salt and the outcome will still be as a rewarding as watching a hula dancer. For this treatment I combined finely ground coffee, to a level of an espresso ground or finer. Do not grind to a medium texture or the end product will taste like sand. There is no one way to create a rub like this, just use what you like. A lot of recipes use garlic and onion powder, something I am personally not a fan of. In this case, I wanted a bit of sweetness and added brown sugar for additional caramelization of the meat on the grill. I also added cayenne for heat and some smoked paprika to complement the coffee flavor. I lightly coated the steak with the rub and let it "marinate" in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours. I think this step really promotes the flavor of the rub into the meat. All in all, the overall approach really worked.</p><p class="MsoNormal">From a steak perspective, any cut of beef will work. I originally intended to do this with a ribeye to play off the salt crusted prime rib we had on the rim at Kiluaea. Given the fact that my local Whole Foods had my go to cut, New York Strip, grass fed and on sale at $9.99 per pound, I went with that. And it did not disappoint.</p><p class="MsoNormal">So in the meantime, if you can't get over to the Islands anytime soon, I want you to turn on "Tiny Bubbles" and go outside and light the BBQ. Put on your best black socks, sandals and your most obnoxiously colorful Hawaiian flower print shirt. Toss on a cowboy hat and a slab of beef and let this luau of flavor begin.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><b>Recipe for Kona Coffee Rubbed</b><b> Steak </b><b>with Hawaiian Pink Salt<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SmOUmO5kKvI/AAAAAAAABAE/frwG14pHXg8/s1600-h/Ingredients+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360291366056504050" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 279px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 180px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SmOUmO5kKvI/AAAAAAAABAE/frwG14pHXg8/s320/Ingredients+1.jpg" border="0" /></a></b><br />Serves 2</p><div><strong>Ingredients</strong></div><div>2 1lb steaks (New York, Ribeye, etc...)</div><div>2 Tbsp finely ground Kona Coffee (or other)</div><div>1 Tbsp brown sugar</div><div>2 tsp Hawaiian Pink or Kosher Salt</div><div>1 tsp smoked paprika</div><div>1/8 tsp cayenne pepper</div><div>Freshly ground black pepper</div><div>1-2 Tbsp canola or olive oil</div><div></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Make the Rub*</strong></div><div>Combine the coffee, brown sugar, salt, paprika, cayenne and black peppers in a small bowl.<br /><br /><strong>Marinate the Steak</strong></div><div>Dry steaks and sprinkle 1 Tbsp of the coffee rub onto each side of the beef. Place on a plate and cover with saran wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes up to 4 hours.</div><div></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>To Cook</strong></div><div>Remove steaks and bring to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Heat a BBQ grill to high for 10 minutes. Scrape the grill and carefully coat with cooking oil. Lower heat to medium high. Lightly drizzle the steaks on both sides with the oil using a spoon or grill tongs to ensure the surface area is covered as this will prevent sticking. Place the steaks on the grill and bring the temperature down to medium high. Cook 5 minutes per side, turning the beef 90 degrees every 2 1/2 minutes for grill marks and to carmelize the rub crust. Keep the lid closed until last 2-3 minutes after you have turned the steaks. When the steaks are cooked remove them from from the grill and let them rest for 5 minutes. Slice in 1/2 inch thick strips and serve.</div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div>* The rub will keep for up to 2 months in an airtight container. Add 1-2 Tbsp into any chili recipe and you'll win your local cook-off contest.</div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/07/tasting-volcano-kona-coffee-rubbed.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-1529544765188457943Sun, 21 Jun 2009 20:48:00 +00002009-06-21T23:01:14.698-07:00Blue HillBottegafleur de selgray saltIna Gartenmarmalademeyer lemonsMichael ChiarelloNapaStyleolive oilTyler FlorenceTyler Florence Mill ValleyA Celebrated Dessert - Olive Oil Cake with Meyer Lemon Marmalade<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sj8UOwRX5AI/AAAAAAAAA-s/SM7KUtDQOmo/s1600-h/Olive+Oil+Cake+Crop+1.jpg"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350017126047933442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 292px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 192px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sj8UOwRX5AI/AAAAAAAAA-s/SM7KUtDQOmo/s320/Olive+Oil+Cake+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">I've kind of had it with the cult of celebrity in this country. It appears that Armageddeon is about to occur as Brangelina has finally become oversaturated in the media and hopefully is on the wane. How about those sorry excuses for parents, Jon and Kate? I am pro-family, but seriously these people have no business raising kids and doing such a poor job of it in the public spotlight. I am going to start paying TLC to stop <strong>broadcasting these nitwits.</strong> Even our current President and his movie star wife have moved to a stratospheric level of celebrity. First, a "night out" to New York City for dinner at </span><a href="http://www.bluehillfarm.com/food/blue-hill-new-york"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>Blue Hill</strong> </span></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">and a Broadway show. Followed up by the world's most publicized romantic "date night" the next week in Paris. Isn't it enough already? I am ready to put a dish towel over my head, roll up into a fetal position and eat a TV dinner.<br /></span><div><div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">But perhaps my biggest beef with the whole celebration of the famous is occuring around the cooking world and "celebrity" chefs. Mind you, I am not resentful of anyone's success but these days you can't <strong>swing a prosciutto</strong> around without hitting a well known culinary master. I thought I would have escaped all of this attention moving to the quaint little town of Mill Valley outside of San Francisco several months ago. Nice. Quiet. People mind their own business here. That is until Tyler Florence of Food Network fame moved to the neighborhood and set up shop in town. Tyler Florence Mill Valley graces the downtown, a pleasant ode to good cooking. Sort of a cross between a Sur La Table and a Pottery Barn. I met Tyler in his store and ran into him at jury duty (seriously) a few months back. A nice man with a lovely family. Until his fork was stolen. You see, he has two 6 foot forks above his store entrance as part of the signage. The local press was aghast. "Dude, Where's My Fork" screamed the headline of the Mill Valley Herald (see the photo and story </span><a href="http://www.marinscope.com/millvalleyherald/subpage.php?story=Mn1"><strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></strong></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">). Worse than that, Mr. Florence realized the minor press goldmine this likely end of year senior prank has provided. He started twittering about it with posts like "All right guys, someone stole one of the forks off the front of my shop. WTF?" I am just not going to escape this, am I?</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">I really like things that are understated. And tasteful. Food. Design. Art. Architecture. People. No need to scream all the attention in the world towards whatever you are doing/hawking/feeling every chance you get. Ina Garten, subtely promotes herself this way. Although certainly a celebrity by any measure, with several successful cooking shows, cookbooks and a cooking product line to point to. She walks a fine line in regards to overexposure, seemingly <strong>doling herself out</strong> in reserved bits and pieces. More my speed.</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">And there is definitely no need to publicly position yourself as the world's leading authority on any given food topic either. I was watching superstar chef, restauranteur and author Michael Chiarello of NapaStyle and Food Network fame gumming about how to properly salt a dish on one of his shows. The overly confident Mr. Chiarello has a near religious devotion to using gray salt (sel gris) on virtually everything. He talks about it incessantly. Walking into his flagship store NapaStyle, a cross between a Williams-Sonoma and Pottery Barn, one can't help being taken aback by the sheer number of different types of salt he has for sale. Black Salt. Hawaiian Lava Salt. Himalayan Pink Salt. A <strong>Jihad of salt</strong>. And this man suffers from overexposure. His other cooking shows including Easy Entertaining, and the new Top Chef Masters series on Bravo TV, all while launching his latest restaurant, </span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/botteganapavalley."><span style="font-family:georgia;">Bottega</span></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">, gives him ample opportunity to throw salt on everything (one). Don't get me wrong. I respect the man as a chef, he is very talented. But the constant din of <strong>selling the brand</strong> is getting to be too much.</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">My birthday came and went a few weeks ago and my parents thoughtfully sent me a cookbook for a gift as I am a big collector. I chuckled when I opened the package - "At Home with Michael Chiarello". I thought to myself "There is no getting away from this now, is there?" Thumbing through the book a week later I decided to cook something out of it as my parents would be visiting for the weekend. A nice gesture I thought, put the star chef's cookbook into action. My mom called. "Honey, you'll never guess who we just met?" she screamed joyfully through the phone. "We just had lunch at Bottega in Napa Valley and Michael sat down with us for 15 minutes". "Oh", I said sounding half excited and half <strong>reaching for a TV dinner</strong>. "And we're bringing you his pink Himalayan salt!"</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">All that said, I really like Mr. Chiarello's approach to desserts. Simple. Understated. Not overly pushy or fanciful. I am not a big dessert maker, and definitely not a proficient baker as I have written about previously </span><a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/staring-down-fearstrawberry-balsamic.html"><span style="font-family:georgia;">here</span></a><span style="font-family:georgia;">. I decided to make his olive oil cake with marmalade to balance Ina Garten's Provencal Style Goat Cheese and Tomato Tart for dinner. This was a true success. Flavorful. Moist. Slightly different but delivering satisfaction in every bite. A real celebration. Making and eating it made me <strong>feel like a star</strong> all while watching TV while having dinner.</span></div><br /><div><strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">Olive Oil Cake* with Meyer Lemon Marmalade </span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sj8TomauPSI/AAAAAAAAA-k/5CXoySyBPpQ/s1600-h/Meyer+Lemon+Crop+1.jpg"><span style="font-family:georgia;"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350016470567763234" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 268px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 239px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sj8TomauPSI/AAAAAAAAA-k/5CXoySyBPpQ/s320/Meyer+Lemon+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></span></a><span style="font-family:georgia;"><br /></span></strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">Serves 6<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients for Olive Oil Cake</strong><br />3/4 C Olive Oil plus extra for pan<br />1/8 C orange juice<br />1/2 tsp grey salt or fleur de sel<br />1 C all purpose flour<br />1 tsp baking soda<br />1 tsp baking powder<br />2 eggs at room temperature (recipe uses 1 1/2 eggs)<br />1 C granulated sugar</span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">1/2 C + 2 Tbsp milk<br />1/8 C french brandy</span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">2 tsp grated lemon zest</span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">1 tsp rosemary, finely chopped</span></div><br /><div><strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">Ingredients for Meyer Lemon Marmalade</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">6 Meyer Lemons<br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">1 C granulated sugar</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">Other Ingredients</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">Vanilla Ice Cream for serving (optional)</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><strong><span style="font-family:georgia;">To Make the Olive Oil Cake</span></strong></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Oil a 10 inch cake pan and set aside. In a non reactive sauce pan reduce orange juice over medium heat by half, about 6-7 minutes. Season with salt and set aside to cool completely.</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">Sift flour, baking soda and baking powder into a medium bowl and set aside. In another medium bowl beat one egg using a mixer with a paddle or hand mixer until combined. Discard half the egg mixture. Add the second edd to the beaten egg mixture and combine until blended well, about one minute. Add the olive oil, milk, sugar, brandy, orange juice, lemon zest, and rosemary. Combine with the mixer, about one minute. Stir in dry ingredients until just combined. Pour into the prepared cake pan. Tap the pan on the counter 2-3 times and then bake in the oven until set and a toothpick comes out clean, about 1 hour. Remove cake from oven and allow to completely cool on a rack. Run knife around the edge of the pan and turn out onto a plate.</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>To make the Meyer Lemon Marmalade</strong><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">While the cake is baking, wash and dry the lemons. Cut them in half and juice them, reserving the liquid. Using a melon baller or a spoon, remove the remaining pulp and white pith from the inside of the lemons. Cut the lemons into 1/8 inch strips. Place lemons in a non-reactive sauce pot and cover with 4 C of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for one minute. Drain the peels into a mesh strainer and rinse thoroughly with cold water. Return the peels to the pan and repeat the same process two more times. On the last boil, drain the peels but do not rinse them. Return them to the sauce pan and add the reserved lemon juice and 1 C of sugar. Cook over a medium low heat for 30 minutes, skimming off the white foam as it cooks.</span></div><br /><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"><strong>To Finish the Olive Oil Cake</strong><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">Spoon the 4-6 T of the warm marmalade over the cake, spreading it all over the top. Slice and serve with vanilla ice cream.</span></div><div> </div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;"></span></div><div><span style="font-family:georgia;">* Olive Oil Cake recipe adopted from "At Home With Michael Chiarello</span></div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/06/celebrated-dessert-olive-oil-cake-with.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-9217785887499302523Sun, 17 May 2009 05:33:00 +00002009-05-16T22:36:34.749-07:00ArgentinaBife de LomoBuenos AiresCarrie Prejeanchimichurri sauceEva PeronEvitaFlorenceKobe BeefmalbecSarah PalinsteakTokyoTorrontesA Beauty Queen's Dinner - Argentine Grilled Skirt Steak with Chimichurri, Red Onions and Arugula<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sg-Tnq-7sCI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/1GLx9qPS_No/s1600-h/DSC_0689+Crop+2.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336646393219756066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 299px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 205px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sg-Tnq-7sCI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/1GLx9qPS_No/s320/DSC_0689+Crop+2.jpg" border="0" /></a>Sometimes life can get very complicated and outsized. Power. Beauty. Politics. When all these conditions come together they can be life changing for some. Entire countries have been changed by such forces. I am not talking about <strong>Ms. Alaska runner-up</strong> and one time vice presidential candidate Sarah Palin. Or even the calculatingly attractive Ms. California, Carrie Prejean. Beautiful women born into tragedy. And certainly politically reaching with differing degrees of power. But their influence is so dimunitive really. True beauty and power comes from strength, elegance and simplicity. Something that can be very big.<br /><br />I learned of this beauty on a trip to Argentina learning about the primary force that has shaped this amazing South American country. I am not talking about <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eva_Perón">Eva Peron (Evita)</a>, the larger than life "Queen of the people" that made something out of herself from nothing, putting an imprint on her people's psyche and becoming an international cultural symbol of Argentina. I am talking about the beauty, strength and elegance of Argentinian cooking - grilled beef with chimichurri sauce. This is food that means something. It's big and intense like the country it comes from. And full of flavor. <strong>It moves people</strong>.<br /><br />Evita was the illigitimate daughter of the mistress to a local aristocrat. Born in 1919, she spent the next 20 years living under the spector of this social taboo while taking all her talents to make something of herself. Her success in cinema and acting allowed her to bridge talent and opportunity together. Her life was one of power, accomplishment and tragedy. Although not a beauty queen, she was treated as royalty by the monarchs and institutions of Europe as Argentina's First Lady and one time populist vice-presidential nominee. By the time she died at age 33, she had ascended to be one of the most powerful political leaders in the country and <strong>an international icon</strong>.<br /><div><div><br /><div>I have been very fortunate to have visited Argentina twice, both times staying in the nation's stunning capital, Buenos Aires. The capital, like the country, is a land of largess. The vast open spaces of the Patagonia. The ascending and spectacular Andes mountain range. And beautiful people - sometimes with outsized personalities (deservedly or not) of Italian and German ancestry. Argentines display a playful <strong>South American casualness</strong> wrapped around European elegance. Wide boulevards. Beautiful architecture. And then there is the food. Argentina is proud of its culinary heritage and it should be. Buttery and flaky empanadas, a nod to French baking with a twist of Latin American soul. Big and bold wines like the country's famous red Malbec from the vast and beautiful Mendoza wine country. Or my favorite export, the fabulously characteristic white wine <a href="http://www.torrontes.com/">Torrontes</a>. </div><br /><div>Yet all of this doesn't really characterize what Argentina is. It is a <strong>country of beef</strong>. Although that sounds odd, it's true. Trust me when I tell you I love a good steak and I have had the opportunity to have some of the best in the world. I've tucked into Kobe beef bred from<span style="color:#000000;"> </span><a title="Wagyu" style="BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none; COLOR: rgb(0,43,184); TEXT-DECORATION: none; -webkit-background-clip: initial; -webkit-background-origin: initial" href="http://www.blogger.com/wiki/Wagyu"><span style="color:#000000;">Wagyu</span></a> cattle of Japan at $200 for a 10 oz filet in Tokyo. Each steer is fed a special diet, rubbed with sake and pampered with little allowable movement contributing to a soft and velvety experience. All in all not bad. The famous Tuscan T-Bone "bistecca alla fiorentina" of Val-de-Chiana? I ate it in Florence at <a href="http://www.travelandleisure.com/restaurants/trattoria-sostanza-2-troia">Il Troia (Sostanza) </a>, a restaurant whose influence only rivals the city's Renaissance Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore. I would definitely go back for dinner here.</div><br /><div>But a simple and somewhat unexplainable fact remains. Argentine beef tastes better. Why? Some say the large open rich grass pastures of the Pampas allow the cattle to forage in a free range setting. Others believe the limited use of feedlots and antibiotics makes all the difference. I honestly can't say what is behind the phenomenon. But I can tell you that if I had three steaks in front of me: a kobe filet, a bistecca alla florentina T-Bone and an Argentine New York Strip, you would have to pry the Argentine steak from my cold dead hands. Asia? Sorry. Europe? No thanks. South America's beautiful and tragic <strong>Argentina wins hands down</strong>.</div><br /><div>All that said, the source of the beef matters when you are making your own. It's not terribly easy to get Argentine beef in the United States (but widely available in Holland - go figure). That said, you can create your own version with a good cut of New York Strip, filet mignon or skirt steak. If you go to Argentina you'll be going to an Argentine steak house, called a parilla, and ordering the <a href="http://www.sallybernstein.com/travel/s_america/buenos_aires.htm">Bife de Lomo</a>, essentially a filet mignon. I am not a big fan of filets because while they are soft, they usually lack flavor. "Lomos", as they are called, literally rule. They are that good. They are "Evita big" in terms of taste and natural stature and they will change your perspective on what defines a steak. You'll order this with a glass of Malbec and then send me a nice email telling me how thankful you are that you read my <strong>little meat missive</strong>.</div><br /><div>For this recipe, I opted for free range, grass fed skirt steak. Simply seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper and grilled for about 4 minutes and I am mentally in the fashionable Recoleta district having <strong>an oral Tango*</strong>. I am a big fan of Chimichurri sauce, a mix of parsley, garlic, chili pepper flakes and olive oil. Argentines put it on everything and it's excellent. There is something about adding chimichurri to warm meat that imparts a scent like no other. I feel like I am back in Buenos Aires, sitting in a 100 year old cafe, with marble countertops and antique wood walls, having a 3 hour lunch. Although not necessarily Argentinian, I served my version over a bed of olive oil and sea salt seasoned arugula and cherry tomatoes. The warmth of the meat lightly cooks the vegetables with a drizzle of chimichurri on top. Big. Bold. Powerful. Simple. And beautiful. Not eating it would be a tragedy of beauty queen proportions.</div><br /><div><strong>Recipe for Argentine Grilled Skirt Steak <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sg-WWa8SEmI/AAAAAAAAA9g/WqKUJY1Pgzk/s1600-h/DSC_0676.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336649395390780002" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 292px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 185px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sg-WWa8SEmI/AAAAAAAAA9g/WqKUJY1Pgzk/s320/DSC_0676.JPG" border="0" /></a></strong><br /></div><div><strong>with Chimichurri, Red Onions and Arugula</strong></div><div>Serves 2-3</div><div> </div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>Ingredients</strong></div><div></div><div></div><div>1 Lb skirt steak or New York strip steak</div><div>1 red or bermuda onion, cut into thick rings</div><div>olive oil for coating</div><div>Kosher or sea salt</div><div>Ground pepper</div><div>8 oz of fresh arugula</div><div>12-16 cherry or grape tomatoes</div><div></div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Chimichurri Sauce</strong></div><div>1 C flat leaf Italian parsley, stems removed</div><div>3 garlic cloves</div><div>2 Tbsp red wine or sherry vinegar</div><div>1 tsp salt</div><div>1 tsp pepper</div><div>1/4 tsp red chili flakes</div><div>1/2 C olive oil</div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Make the Chimichurri Sauce</strong></div><div>In a small food processor combine the parsley and garlic cloves. Pulse several times (10-15) to chop it coarsely. Alternatively, you can chop the parsley and garlic by hand. Place in small bowl. Add vinegar, salt, pepper, chili flakes and stir with the olive oil. Set aside.</div><div></div><br /><div><strong>Grill the Steak and Onions</strong></div><div>Heat a grill or grill pan over a medium flame. Rub olive oil on the bermuda onion slices and season both sides with salt and pepper. Grill over a medium to low heat for 5 minutes per side, flipping once, until soft and slightly golden. Remove onions to a platter.</div><div></div><br /><div>While the onion cooks rub steaks on both sides with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place steaks on a hot oiled barbeque or grill pan and cook no more than 2 minutes per side for skirt steak on a medium high flame for a total of 4 minutes, or 5 minutes per side for a New York Strip on a medium to medium high flame for a total of 10 minutes. Remove steaks from heat source to a platter. Cover with foil and let rest while you finish the remaining steps.</div><br /><div></div><div><strong>To Serve</strong></div><div>On a serving platter, place arugula and drizzle with 2-3 Tbsp of good quality olive oil. Toss to coat and season with salt and pepper. Cut half of the cherry or grape tomatoes in half and scatter around the plate. Scatter remaining whole tomatoes on the plate. Toss with the arugula and then arrange for presentation. Slice the steak into strips crosswise with a diameter of 1/2 inch to 1 inch based on preference. Drizzle with some of the chimichurri sauce. Place grilled onions over the top of the platter and serve with the remaining chimichurri sauce on the side.</div><br /><div>* Normally this is eaten with a big red Malbec wine and it totally works. That said, it was close to 1oo degrees the day I made this. I served this with iced white sangria as I have blogged about <a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/dont-you-look-hotwhite-peach-rainier.html">here</a>, but used an Argentinian Torrontes for the wine. It completely worked, balancing out the tanginess and spice of the chimichurri sauce. I am not a big fan of strictly doing red wine with meat and white wine with chicken or seafood. The white sangria worked well here.</div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/05/beauty-queens-dinner-argentine-grilled.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-4573956809905845334Sun, 19 Apr 2009 02:07:00 +00002009-04-18T19:12:50.245-07:00agnolottiBuitoniChandoncremini mushroomsfast foodFerrari-CarranofoodbuzzthymeYou Want Fries With That? Wild Mushroom Agnolotti, Caramelized Shallots, Thyme and Mushroom Broth<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SelUs3YY5tI/AAAAAAAAA48/4OF7gsVDWaM/s1600-h/DSC_0665.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5325881164099544786" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 291px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 276px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SelUs3YY5tI/AAAAAAAAA48/4OF7gsVDWaM/s320/DSC_0665.JPG" border="0" /></a>I am not a big fan of fast food but it's been an exhausting week. Double cheeseburger with bacon and fries? I'll do that. Slice of cheese pizza with extra hot pepper? That is right in my wheelhouse. Iranian Osetra caviar with creme fraiche on blini? OK, not fast food in the typical sense but <strong>I love caviar</strong> - and, well, you can eat it quickly while sipping the right champagne. Mind you, I am not talking about traditional fast food now. That's fine and it has its place. What I don't care for is ready prepared or pre-made "gourmet" food that masquerades as something delicious. Why? Because more often than not it doesn't come close to tasting good.<br /><br />Walk into any supermarket, gourmet, or otherwise and you'll see what I mean. Refrigerated cases loaded with beautiful looking and bland tasting pre-made food. And it's pricey. If you are going for "gourmet" fast food and the value to deliciousness ratio is out of whack that's <strong>a culinary sin</strong>.<br /><br />We can take this a step further and look at "freshly made" items you can find at the grocery store. You know what I mean. "Fresh" pasta. Refrigerated sauces. Pre-shredded cheeses. One word. Say it with me...Flavorless. You know <strong>I am right</strong>. Frankly, I'd rather have a cheeseburger.<br /><br />I've been working 12 to 14 hour days the last two weeks on a big deal and I have been pretty tired - hardly a beautiful life for me. Oddly, several of my friends seem to be galavanting off to Europe right now. That's what I need. A break from the drudgery. The Plaza Mayor in Madrid with memories of tapas and sangria. That could work. Lobster grilled over coconut husks at a warung in Bali. I am on that beach mentally right now. Or perhaps the best of the lot. Eating at <a href="http://www.ristorantesibilla.com/">Ristorante Sibilla </a>in the hills of Tivoli outside Rome. Popes have summered here for centuries. When the <strong>Gods on Mt. Olympus</strong> got tired of ordering takeout pizza they went to Sibilla for the most amazing pasta you have ever eaten.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SeppUd-757I/AAAAAAAAA5E/xysGuSAWI4E/s1600-h/DSC_0612.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326185309685934002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 211px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 221px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SeppUd-757I/AAAAAAAAA5E/xysGuSAWI4E/s320/DSC_0612.JPG" border="0" /></a>When I work hard food becomes even more important to me. And it needs to taste good. So imagine how I <strong>rolled my eyes</strong> when I got home the other day and a package was waiting for me from the nice people at <a href="http://www.foodbuzz.com/">Foodbuzz</a>, the blog advertising network I belong to. Intrigued, I opened the 16 inch box. It seemed unusually sizable, given the fact that I couldn't recall ordering anything. I opened it curiously pulling out Styrofoam, and then paper, and finally several blocks of dry ice. And what treasure was awaiting me when I got to the end of this culinary rainbow? A package of freshly made Wild Italian Mushroom Agnolotti from <strong><a href="http://www.buitoni.com/Public/Default.aspx">Buitoni</a></strong>. Yeah, you are reading that right. Buitoni. The people that make fresh pasta and sell it mass market.<br /><br />I haven't blogged much lately but felt the need to inject some creativity into my life given the blood sucking world of corporate IT that I work in. A gourmet pasta that Foodbuzz was offering to some of their publishers presented a challenge. I was <strong>tired and hungry</strong> but I told myself I could whip something up based on what was in the fridge with the agnolotti. I peered into my refrigerator to see what I could work with. Cremini mushrooms? That was obvious. Further in the vegetable drawer I located some fresh thyme. I always have thyme on my hands (cute, considering how hard I have been working lately). An unused shallot lay threadbare, looking sorry for itself. He was in.<br /><br />I got busy chopping the shallots and caramelizing them with olive oil over a medium heat. I sliced some mushrooms and sauteed them with shallots to a golden brown. Setting aside some of the shallot mixture I deglazed the plan with some <a href="http://www.ferrari-carano.com/">Ferrari-</a><a href="http://www.ferrari-carano.com/">Carrano</a> Fume Blanc in the fridge door. Not exactly drinkable as it had been open for about a week but <strong>perfect for cooking</strong>. A couple of cups of vegetable stock and some chopped thyme went into and got boiled down for 15 minutes while I tossed the agnolotti in to cook. Buitoni recommends 4-6 minutes, gently boiled. I went with four minutes figuring that no self respecting Italian chef would cook pasta and then pour sauce over it. Certainly not the ones that cook at Sibilla. Why not finish cooking the Wild Mushroom Agnolotti in the thyme and mushroom broth to take advantage of flavor infusing and thickening? When the broth reduced, I strained it into a bowl and then added it back in the pan on a low heat with the reserved shallot and mushroom mixture I had sauteed. I finished cooking the pasta on a low heat for another few minutes. Gently placing the al dente pasta into warmed bowl, the broth with slices of mushroom and caramelized shallots was ladled over. A few shavings of fresh Parmesan and some fresh thyme on top finished this little fast food challenge off.<br /><br />And the result? I am pretty confident the Pope that summered in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tivoli,_Italy">Tivoli </a>where Sibilla now stands would have<strong> genuflected with pleasure</strong>. The finished product was exceptional. I must say while I don't typically buy fresh pasta in a store, Buitoni has done an excellent job creating a very high quality product. The pasta has a toothsome but flavorful density. The well seasoned mushroom mixture included cremini and portobello mushrooms and grana padano and Parmesan cheeses. I served this with a Sparkling Rose from <a href="http://www.chandon.com/web/index.cfm">Chandon </a>from Napa Valley. I love sparkling wine and champagne with food and this completely worked. A taste of Caramel Fleur de Sel gelato at the end made this experience <strong><a href="http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20060722231955AAXGo0h">la bella vita</a></strong>.<br /><br />I don't typically review products in my blog and would not have gone out of my way to have bought this product if it hadn't been sent to me. Grazie to Foodbuzz and Buitoni. We really enjoyed this. I guess I need to re-visit the original premise of this post. I think I am beginning to like fast food.<br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Wild Mushroom Agnolotti with </strong><strong>Caramelized <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SeprNq4CN9I/AAAAAAAAA5M/inO_ZvfweE0/s1600-h/DSC_0642.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326187391910819794" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 286px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 178px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SeprNq4CN9I/AAAAAAAAA5M/inO_ZvfweE0/s320/DSC_0642.JPG" border="0" /></a></strong><br /><strong>Shallots, Thyme and Mushroom Broth</strong><br /><br />Serves 2<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />1 package Buitoni Riserva Brand Wild Mushroom Agnolotti<br />1 medium shallot, finely chopped<br />8-10 cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced<br />2-3 T olive oil<br />1/4 cup dry white wine<br />1 T thyme, finely chopped (divided use)<br />2 cups vegetable broth or stock*<br />salt and pepper<br />Parmesan cheese for grating<br />Crusty French or Italian Bread<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong><br />In a medium saute pan heat two TBSP of olive oil. Add shallots and cook until soft and beginning to caramelize, about 5-7 minutes. Stir occasionally. Add mushrooms and saute until slightly golden about 5 minutes. Add additional TBSP of olive oil if the pan is to dry while the mushrooms first start to cook. When mushroom are nearly done season with salt and pepper. Remove 2/3's of the shallot and mushroom mixture to a small bowl.<br /><br />Raise the saute pan to a high heat. Add wine and deglaze, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Cook until the wine has evaporated. Add 2 cups of vegetable broth and 1/2 of the chopped thyme. Bring the broth to a boil and reduce to 1 cup. Taste for seasoning and adjust with additional salt and pepper if necessary. While the broth is cooking down heat a separate 3 quart saucepan with water and bring to a bowl. When water is boiling add in agnolotti and cook gently for four minutes. Meanwhile strain the broth into a bowl pressing the solids with the back of a spoon to extra out any remaining liquid. Discard the solids. Wipe out the saute pan and add the strained broth back in over a low heat. When the pasta has finished cooking for four minutes transfer it to the saute pan with a slotted spoon. It's OK if a little of the pasta water makes it into the broth, that only adds to the finished product. Cook gently for 2-3 minutes.<br /><br /><strong>To Serve</strong><br />Using the slotted spoon, place the ravioli in two warmed bowls. Ladle the sliced mushrooms and shallots over the top and pour any remaining broth into the bowls. Grate the Parmesan cheese over the top and sprinkle with the remaining fresh chopped thyme. Serve with bread on the side to dip into the broth.<br /><br />* The type of vegetable broth or stock you use will change the outcome of this dish as there are so many different types. I used Pacific Garden Organic Vegetable Stock for this. They use tomatoes as part if the broth base giving it a richer texture and a darker color. A lighter stock, such as Swansons will provide a somewhat different outcome, more "en brodo" style the way tortellini is served in Italy. No less delicious, just different.http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/04/you-want-fries-with-that-wild-mushroom.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-6650969716601192816Sun, 05 Apr 2009 16:05:00 +00002009-04-05T10:45:21.266-07:00BBQcrock potDreamlanddry rubPulled Porkslow cookerSmoki-O's"Slap Yo Mama in The Face Good" Pulled Pork with Kentucky Black Bourbon BBQ Sauce<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SdjGMQBeHBI/AAAAAAAAA34/VkoRnAXsk3I/s1600-h/DSC_0587-Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321220873500105746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 301px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 201px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SdjGMQBeHBI/AAAAAAAAA34/VkoRnAXsk3I/s320/DSC_0587-Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">All right. Don't start with me because I don't want to have to get in your face. I don't just like barbecue. <strong>I feel barbecue.</strong> Ribs. Brisket. Pulled Pork. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Call me crazy why don't you. Barbecue is real food. Wood. Smoke. Marinades. Brines. Dry rubs. And sauces. We can go a few rounds on sauces. </span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Oh I have had the good fortune of eating in some</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">of the best restaurants in the world. World famous Guy Savoy's namesake</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> temple to gastronomy</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> in Paris (twice). American legend Thomas Keller's French Laundry in Yountville. Le Cirque 2000 in New York. And perhaps, my favorite of the lot. Restaurant Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain. They are all wonderful. But they are not barbecue. You can have a passion for cooking. But no cuisine (other than French or Basque, perhaps) is considered "a passion". Except that is for barbecue. </span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I thought about this passion long and hard. And then I pulled out </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">my crock pot</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. You probably think I need a slap in the face. But I'll get to that later.</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Democracy and the Bill of Rights? Important milestones in governing our nation. </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Women"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Women's Suffrage</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. Its impact on civil government cannot be underestimated. The Civil Rights Voting Act of 1964. No doubt a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">gut wrenching</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> change millions had to deal with. All of these milestones of society emerged through conflict. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: 19px;font-family:'-webkit-sans-serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">This country was founded on barbecue. </span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: 19px;font-family:'-webkit-sans-serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">This kind of cooking is complicated. I don't mean the actual technical act of the cooking itself. Low and slow. Mesquite and Hickory. Indirect heat smokers. Nothing overly complicated at an execution level. Find a heat source. Light a fire. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">And let it go.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> The complexity comes down to a simple issue. No one can agree what defines real barbecue.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: 19px;font-family:'-webkit-sans-serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">First of all, what meat do you use? Beef. Pork. Chicken. Once that is sorted then </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">you have to argue </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">about what is the best cut. Brisket. Loins. Ribs. Racks. Butts. Shoulders. Legs. Sausage. Some misguided people actually believe only beef brisket qualifies as BBQ. But I am a pork lover. I am ready to make my stand so bring it on.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">And then there are the flavoring bases. Marinades. Dry Rubs. Wet Rubs. Brines. Vinegar based sauces. Tomato based. Heat. Sweet. Spicy. Smoky. I'm a </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">wet tomato</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> based sauce lover. I've actually had heated conversations about the whole wet vs. dry method of BBQ cooking. Don't invade my personal space on this topic as it won't turn out too good for you.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Now you just try having a rational barbecue conversation with someone from Memphis, or Texas. Kansas City or Georgia. Birmingham or Santa Maria. There is no agreement on what constitutes real barbecue. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">BBQ </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">is a passion</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. Someone just might get hurt.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: 19px;font-family:'-webkit-sans-serif';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="LINE-HEIGHT: normal;font-family:Georgia;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">You'd think with my love of low and slow cooking I would sing the merits of mesquite. Or perhaps smokers. But I don't. Yeah, I'll stand outside in the hot sun for hours, clothes smelling of smoke. Wiping sweat off my brow. I'd rather pay someone else for that commitment however. But I still love eating barbecue at home. Which is why I use </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">my slow cooker</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. I'm getting funny looks from people across the country right about now. But for my favorite type of barbecue, pulled pork in a sweet and spicy tomato based sauce, there is simply no need.</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Simple and easy to make, a little water, some sliced onion and a good cut of pork are all that is needed to turn out fantastic BBQ. And the key for this recipe is that when the cooking is half way done you simply drain the water and chop the meat. Adding back in some homemade sauce and fresh chopped onion for the second round of cooking forces the meat to put off its liquid, causing a tenderness that forces a concentration in flavor. I've had pulled pork sandwiches at </span><a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/smoki-os-saint-louis"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Smoki-O's</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> in St. Louis. A small </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">altar </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">to porcine</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> eating. This version is just as good.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">I like making my own barbecue sauce. There are plenty of good versions you can purchase that are store bought. But I feel that if I am going to skip the whole "smoke your own and make a personal commitment" experience, the least I can do is cook my own masterful sauce. Oh, I'm a sauce guy as you well know and as I have written about previously </span><a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/10/french-dip-mussels-provencale-style.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">here</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">. In this version, I ad libbed a basic Steven Reichlen tomato based treatment, substituting a cajun rub for a dry BBQ rub and adding in extra cayenne. For me, the whole reason to do a tomato based sauce is to get the interplay of spicy versus sweet. You can start modestly and then add in 1/4 teaspoons of pepper to get to the right "low burn". I had a reasonable rendition of this at </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><a href="http://www.dreamlandbbq.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Dreamland BBQ</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">in Birmingham a few times. They have been making BBQ since 1958. Although I call this a "Kentucky Black Bourbon" sauce, technically it isn't since it isn't purely vinegar based. I add in Balsamic vinegar and a touch of bourbon. A couple of bites of this and you'll start trash talkin'. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">OK, OK. Calm down now. It's not done in a smoker. Or over wood. But this is cooked slowly and comes out meltingly tender. As my friend </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Bren </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">over at </span><a href="http://www.flanboyanteats.com/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">FlaN Boyant Eats</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"> likes to say this is "slap yo mama in the face good". Let the fighting begin...</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Recipe for Pulled Pork with Kentucky </span></span></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5321219405154588370" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 310px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 203px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SdjE2yAnltI/AAAAAAAAA3w/dvmJCUbA7ZU/s320/DSC_0566+crop+1.jpg" border="0" /> <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Black Bourbon BBQ Sauce &amp; Creamy Slaw</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Serves 4</span></div><div></div><div></div><div></div></div><br /><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"></span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Ingredients </span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Pulled Pork</span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">3-4 lb pork butt or shoulder</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 onion, thinly sliced</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 1/2 cups water</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 cup chopped onion</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 1/2 cups BBQ sauce</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Kentucky Black Bourbon BBQ Sauce </span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 cup Heinz ketchup</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 cup Heinz or similar chili sauce</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/4 cup cider vinegar</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">3 TBSP prepared yellow mustard</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 TBSP balsamic vinegar</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 TBSP bourbon</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 tsp paprika</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 tsp smoked paprika</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 tsp dried oregano</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 tsp dried thyme</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 tsp cracked black pepper</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/4 tsp salt</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1 tsp cayenne pepper, with more to taste for heat</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Creamy Slaw</span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">2 cups sliced red or green cabbage</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/2 carrot grated</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/3 cup mayonnaise</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">3 TBSP sour cream</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">1/4 tsp salt</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">11/4 tsp pepper</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">For Serving</span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">4 soft hamburger buns</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Dill pickles</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Method</span></span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Pulled Pork</span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Put 2/3 of the sliced onion on the bottom of a 6 qt or larger slow cooker/crock pot. Lay pork roast over the onions. Add 1 1/2 cups of water and lay remaining onion slices over the top. Set cooker on "High" for 4 to 5 hours. Do not break the seal of the lid. Remove pork to a cutting board and let rest for 5 mins. Drain liquid and discard onions in slow cooker. Chop the pork into 1 to 2 inch pieces and add back into the crock pot. Add chopped onions and 1 1/4 cups of BBQ sauce and stir. Cook for an additional 4-5 hours on "Low" stirring 2 or 3 times. Using two forks, shred the pork.</span><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Kentucky Black Bourbon BBQ Sauce </span></span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Combine all ingredients with 1/2 of the cayenne pepper in a 2 quart saucepan. Bring to a boil slowly and stir. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes stirring occasionally until thickened. Check the sauce for heat and add more cayenne if needed.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Creamy Slaw</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Whisk together the mayonnaise and the sour cream until smooth. Add in cider vinegar, salt and pepper and stir. Mix cabbage and carrot with the dressing and let sit for 30 minutes.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">To serve the Pulled Pork Sandwiches</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;">Wrap the buns in foil and heat in a 275 degree oven for 10 minutes. Mound 1/2 cup of the pulled pork on the bottom bun half. Place 3-4 TBSP of slaw over the top. Slather the top bun half with some of the remaining BBQ sauce. Serve with dill pickles on the side.</span></div></span></span>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/04/slap-yo-mama-good-pulled-pork-with.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-1207824185536226098Sun, 22 Mar 2009 20:29:00 +00002009-03-22T16:02:20.494-07:00artichokesburratamarin farmers marketmeyer lemonsstrawberriestulipsLazy Sunday, Lazy Blog<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sca2OuFr4BI/AAAAAAAAA3I/SqufcIslstI/s1600-h/IMG_4373.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316136774163750930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 289px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sca2OuFr4BI/AAAAAAAAA3I/SqufcIslstI/s320/IMG_4373.JPG" border="0" /></a>I haven't wanted to do an entry like this on Chefectomy. The blog is supposed to be clever and witty with some sort of unique travel angle thrown in for good measure. All centered around a food topic I want to write about with an accompanying recipe. A bit of a racy overtone between the sexes seems to get added in as well. Usually more often than not. But March flew by and Spring is here. I felt like I needed to at least put up one posting for the month.<strong> I'm a lazy slug.</strong><br /><div align="left"><br /></div><div align="left"><strong><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal">It's not like I haven't had lots to blog about. I've done more </span>good eating<span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal"> and cooking with blogging inspiration to follow in the last 30 days then I can remember. NOPA. Beretta. Lark Creek Inn. The Slanted Door. All excellent restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area with unique cooking leveraging the best locally grown food you can find anywhere.</span></strong></div><div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align="left"><br /></div><div align="left"><strong><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal">I was going to do a whole blog thing on bacon. Who doesn't like bacon. "I am sure I can come up with something clever around bacon" I said to my wife after having some Hobbs Bacon on a sandwich recently. Hobbs has reached <strong>near cult status</strong> in Marin. Anytime bacon reaches cult status that's got to be worth writing about. And there is an excellent chance that the global financial system is also coming off the rails when such status is reached. I googled "bacon blogs" for a bit of inspiration. Man was I over my head when I saw the results. <a href="http://www.iheartbacon.com/">I Heart Bacon</a>. <a href="http://www.baconunwrapped.com/">Bacon Unwrapped</a>. One person even does a recipe devoted TO BACON everyday on <a href="http://baconshow.blogspot.com/">The Bacon Show</a> claiming "one bacon recipe per day, every day, forever." How do you compete with that on the cleverness factor? You probably need to become a big executive at AIG. Everyone loves bacon, even highly overpaid insurance executives. But alas - no blog bacon love.</span></strong></div><div align="left"><br /></div><div align="left">I had delectable <a href="http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2007/09/the-best-burrat.html">burrata</a> cheese on a pizza at <a href="http://www.berettasf.com/">Beretta's</a> in the Mission a few weeks ago. If you don't know what this product is, you really need to <strong>track it down</strong> and try it. It's conceptually like fresh bufalo mozzarella, but really nothing like it when you taste it. It has a flavor that is uniquely creamy and sweet but works against a savory backdrop of virtually any good ingredient. Although delicious, no real blogging inspiration from buratta at Beretta's.<br /></div><div align="left"><br /></div><div align="left">I got over to <a href="http://biritecreamery.com/">Bi-Rite Creamery </a>last night after dinner at The Slanted Door in the San Francisco Ferry Building. If you plan on visiting the Golden Gate Bridge (which I am obsessed with), or go to Ghiradelli Square, or take a cable car ride down Powell street to the Embacadero you need to skip all that. Simply head over to the Mission District and order the salted caramel ice cream. It is an <strong>ode to deliciousness</strong>. Your trip will be complete and considered a success. You need do nothing further other than write and thank me for helping you realize what ice cream is (and isn't). I read some article a month or so ago about how salted caramel had entered the mainstream and this was recognized in the fact that Barack Obama loves the stuff from a specific purveyor up in Seattle. As much of a fan as I am of the President, he needs to duck out of Washington and head over to Bi-Rite for a double scoop. I guarantee you the AIG bonus mess will be a distant memory after this. I suppose I could write a political blog.<br /></div><div align="left"><br /></div><div align="left">So all of this leads me to the posting I am putting up. Not very creative I realize, but it was a beautiful, <strong>lazy Sunday</strong> in Marin County and we went out to San Rafael Farmer's Market and then for a walk throw our neighborhood in Mill Valley. A few photos to share and hopefully some blogging inspiration will follow...</div><div align="center"><br /><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316135559227826546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Sca1IAGY4XI/AAAAAAAAA3A/YxZZYaAqC6U/s320/IMG_4384.JPG" border="0" /> <p>A neighbor's tulip garden in Mill Valley</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316124026761160050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/ScaqouUEpXI/AAAAAAAAA2o/fNYfgiMC3CY/s320/IMG_4390.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Meyer Lemons down the street</p><br /><p></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316125993645787538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 302px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/ScasbNh6SZI/AAAAAAAAA2w/vIw94AowJho/s320/IMG_4393.JPG" border="0" /> </p><p>California Poppies in our front yard</p><p><br /></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316127081974361986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/Scataj3qb4I/AAAAAAAAA24/KT_lMCQIMSo/s320/IMG_4395.JPG" border="0" /><br />Organic Strawberries from the San Rafael Farmer's Market<br /></p>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/03/lazy-sunday-lazy-blog.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-3418017245308653301Sat, 07 Feb 2009 06:30:00 +00002009-02-07T08:52:26.153-08:00beanscassouletduck confitfranceparisMy Cheating Heart - Easy Cassoulet<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SY0u3ibgjVI/AAAAAAAAAzg/gA5MWhBDUqU/s1600-h/DSC_0080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299943868154809682" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 299px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 196px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SY0u3ibgjVI/AAAAAAAAAzg/gA5MWhBDUqU/s320/DSC_0080.JPG" border="0" /></a> <div><span class="Apple-style-span">All right, I haven't always told the truth whe<span class="Apple-style-span">n it comes to affairs of the heart. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">I </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">am a liar</span>. And a no good cheatin' two timer. It all started with an innocent run around in Paris. Undeniably the world's most romantic city. I wandered the streets looking for love. A fashionably svelte interlude at the <a href="http://www.crillon.com/crillon.html">Hotel Crillon</a>? Too expensive. Perhaps something more natural and affordable in the Latin Quarter - non, non...I wanted to savor this indiscretion. I was seeking the best cassoulet I could find in this overwhelmingly gorgeous city. </span></div><div><div><br /></div><div>I walked discreetly through the 6th arrondisement avoiding Jacques Cagna's expensive flagship namesake. I craved something <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">tawdry and cheap</span>. Peasant food. But there she was - the bistro <a href="http://www.jacquescagna.com/indexus.htm">La Rotisserie d'en Face</a>. Understated and elegant. I sat down shamelessly calling out my desire. The two of us. Alone. Me, with my fork, playfully amused at the bubbling earthenware dish. And every bite of that <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">cassoulet</span> made me want more. Rich. Warm. Smooth. Soulful. When I was done there was only one word to describe this sensational entanglement. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Afterglow</span>. <div><br /></div><div>I haven't been totally honest with you. I know I have written in the past that I favor cooking techniques more than specific types of foods or cuisines as I have written about <a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/12/hot-legged-braisin-hussy-osso-buco.html">here</a>. OK. I'll admit it. I have straight out lied to you about this and I am sorry. I actually have a favorite food. And it is cassoulet. A<span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> love affair really.</span></div><div><br /></div><div>You know how in some Eastern religions, such as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hinduism">Hinduism</a>, where you are reincarnated and come back in the next life as a higher form than your previous existence? I want to come back as cassoulet. But there is one little problem. And since I am coming clean about my past I'll admit I am not just a liar. I am <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">bearing my soul</span> right now. I'm a cheater too. </div><div><br /></div><div>I cannot stand the process of making a traditional cassoulet. Anything that takes three days to prepare and countless hours to come out of the oven - well let's just say I'll pay someone else for that guilty pleasure. Soaking beans overnight. Breaking and re-doing the crust of the baked stew as it soaks up cooking liquid in a hot oven. It's really too much for any one person to undertake. However, I can't begin to describe the delight of a perfectly executed French cassoulet. A rich and thick garlicky base. Beans that are creamy yet firm. A touch of thyme, my all "time" favorite herb. And then there are those meats. Duck confit. Sausages. Bacon or lardon. Nestled warmly in an earthenware dish <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">under a duvet</span> of golden crisp breadcrumbs. Excuse me, I need a moment to myself.</div><div><br /></div><div>All that said, I like to make "cheaters" cassoulet if I am not ordering off a menu. Not as good as the original mind you. But in a pinch it's hard to beat. Cassoulet typically uses a white bean, such as a cannellini, although I also have had excellent versions with lentils. And the meats can be whatever you enjoy. Lamb, duck breast, pancetta, or cubes of pork. I am a<span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> sucker for duck</span> and fortunately you can find reasonably priced duck confit nowadays at gourmet supermarkets like Whole Foods. I almost always buy a duck confit and crisp it in the oven for cheaters cassoulet. It gets you close to the original with virtually no work.</div><div><br /></div><div>And the beans. I used pre-cooked and canned cannellinis. Sure you can buy dried ones, pick them over for rocks, and soak them overnight for the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">traditional experience</span>. But why do all that when the final product of this method is only marginally better? I'm just saying...</div><div><br /></div><div>A cold evening. A warm dish of cassoulet with a glass of Cote du Rhone. Thoughts of Paris running through my mind...I'll two-time any day for a little of that action.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Recipe for Easy "Cheaters" Cassoulet <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span></span></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299942759524639602" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 292px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 187px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SY0t3Adeo3I/AAAAAAAAAzY/5cEwSF-_qFM/s320/DSC_0056+Crop+3.jpg" border="0" /> <div>Serves 2</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Ingredients</span></div><div>2 duck confit legs</div><div>2 sausages (Italian, Garlic, whatever you like), cut into 1/2 inch rounds</div><div>4 oz applewood smoked bacon, chopped into 1/2 inch pieces</div><div>1/2 yellow onion cut in 1/2 inch dice</div><div>2 carrots cut into 1/4 inch dice</div><div>6 garlic gloves, peeled and thinly sliced</div><div>5 sprigs of fresh thyme</div><div>5 sprigs of fresh Italian parsley</div><div>1 bay leaf</div><div>1 Tbsp tomato paste</div><div>1/2 C chopped peeled Italian tomatoes</div><div>2 14 oz cans of cooked cannellini (white kidney) beans</div><div>Dash of cayenne pepper</div><div>salt</div><div>pepper</div><div>1 1/2 C fresh bread crumbs</div><div>3 cloves garlic, minced</div><div>3 Tbsp Italian parsley, chopped</div><div>3 Tbsp butter</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Method</span></div><div>Heat an oven to 400 degrees or 375 if using a convection oven. Butter a 13 inch earthenware dish.</div><div><br /></div><div>In a large oven proof skillet (14 inch diameter) place duck confit legs and roast in the oven for 15 minutes until crisp. In a bowl combine chopped onion, carrot, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, and sliced garlic.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remove skillet from oven and set duck confit legs aside. Heat skillet over medium heat. Add chopped bacon and cook until crisp, about 3 minutes. Move bacon to the side of the skillet and brown sausage on both sides about 3 to 4 minutes. Add duck confit legs back into the skillet. Add vegetables and cook until nicely carmelized and soft, about 10 minutes. Add tomato paste, chopped tomatoes and beans. Cook for 2-3 minutes over medium high heat until are ingredients are blended. Add enough water to just cover the beans and bring to a boil. Carefully remove the duck confit with tongs into the earthenware baking dish and then cover with the beans mixture. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven for 35 minutes.</div><div><br /></div><div>Combine bread crumbs, minced garlic and chopped parsley in a bowl. Melt butter. Remove foil from baking dish. Season cassoulet with a dash or two of cayenne pepper, salt and ground black pepper. Cover cassoulet with breadcrumb mixture and drizzle melted butter over the top. Cook uncovered for 10 more minutes. Remove from oven and let the dish rest 2-3 minutes while your dining partners ogle over how beautiful your hot little dish is. Serve.</div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/02/my-cheating-heart-easy-cassoulet.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-4013062664149657328Fri, 16 Jan 2009 07:34:00 +00002009-01-15T23:39:20.954-08:00escaroleMcEvoy Rancholive oilscallopsVeuve ClicquotRecession Gourmet - Scallops with Escarole, White Beans and New Olive Oil<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SXAagGnzpmI/AAAAAAAAArw/VnbiB020pMs/s1600-h/DSC_0010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5291758700996044386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 285px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 167px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SXAagGnzpmI/AAAAAAAAArw/VnbiB020pMs/s320/DSC_0010.JPG" border="0" /></a>I am not one to make New Year's resolutions, but I am going to break that rule for 2009. The politics of change have pushed me to this. I want to challenge the general eating public to <strong>resolve to eat well </strong>this year. This country has been through a lot over the last eight years. Republicans. Democrats. Independents. No agreement on how to move forward, with one exception. It's time to eat well.<br /><br />Now that we are done with all the politics of division, its time we had an honest conversation ourselves. Shouldn't we resolve to <strong>luxuriate in good meals</strong>? A lot of problems can be solved by good eating. And with a new administration arriving in Washington DC, let's all pledge to spend money on things that are important. Not roads. Or bridges. I am talking about quality ingredients.<br /><br />It's time for investment we can understand. I don't mean $350 billion TARP program congress just passed because Wall Street failed us. Or the $800 billion economic stimulus plan President elect Obama wants. We are in the worst depression in a century. But that is no excuse to have poor food <strong>pass our lips</strong>. Quite frankly I don't see how we can afford not to eat well.<br /><br />So here is an economic plan for you that will help you save money this year and might just save the economy. I am calling this attitude (or resolution) <strong>"Recession Gourmet"</strong>. Dine out less this year and invest in some good ingredients that you can prepare yourself. Elevate good dishes into great ones through their intelligent and judicious application. Think of this as your <strong>personal culinary stimulus</strong>.<br /><br />The new year also means there is <strong>new oil</strong>. And what Nuevo Olio should we invest in? Tuscany, where olive oil is as cherished as Catholicism? Perhaps. Andalucia, which anchors Spain's position as the largest producer of quality oil in the world. Maybe. The olive orchards at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Baux-de-Provence">Les Baux en Provence</a>. Shocking that we could actually consider something from France from just a few short years ago. But nevertheless, tempting.<br /><br />All that said, I'd rather you stay closer to home. Local. I did just that over the holidays buying some beautifully fruity extra virgin olive oil from <a href="http://www.mcevoyranch.com/html/index.php">McEvoy Ranch </a>grown in Petaluma, CA. <strong>Bold. Herbacious. Silken. Spicy.</strong> The United States now produces some of the best olive oil in the world. At $30 a bottle, it wasn't cheap. But the way it elevates a good, simple dish into something extraordinary. Well, let's just say that's good for Main Street.<br /><br />For New Year's Eve, we discussed <strong>a sinful menu</strong>. Over the top really. Caviar. A Filet Mignon Roast. Lobster Ravioli. Champagne. Yet none of that seemed right in these uncertain and more frugal times (except the champagne which is a judicious expenditure to celebrate - not done as an everyday occurence).<br /><br />We settled on a few fresh scallops, seasoned well and seared perfectly. And they rested upon a bed of humbly braised escarole, salty prosciutto, and meltingly comfortable, yet modest white beans. Not our typical New Year's Eve fare. Finished with some meyer lemon zest and a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil turned this dish into something worthy of an <strong>inaugural dinner</strong> on the cheap. As this was the beginning of a new chapter (annually, politically and culinarily) we couldn't bring ourselves to scrimp on the champagne, so we paired the scallops with <a href="http://www.veuve-clicquot.com/">Veuve Clicquot</a>.<br /><br />A few high quality ingredients. Simply prepared. <strong>I pledge to live as a Recession Gourmet</strong>. Now that's a resolution I will take an oath to preserve and protect...<br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Scallops with Escarole, <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SXAyIb9SYnI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/O718OSeReIQ/s1600-h/DSC_0806.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5291784682685489778" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 176px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SXAyIb9SYnI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/O718OSeReIQ/s320/DSC_0806.JPG" border="0" /></a></strong><br /><strong>White Beans &amp; New Olive Oil</strong><br />Serves 2<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />1 head of escarole, quartered with core<br />15 oz can of white (cannellini) beans, rinsed<br />2 oz of prosciutto or applewood bacon<br />1 bay leaf<br />1/2 onion, peeled and halved<br />2 garlic cloves, peeled<br />2 cups chicken stock<br />4 fresh divers scallops<br />Salt<br />Pepper<br />4 TBSP olive oil, plus more for drizzling<br />1 meyer lemon<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong><br />Bring a pot of saled water to a boil. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water.<br /><br />Cook the escarole in the boiling wat for 3 minutes. Remove with tongs and then submerge in the in the ice water. This will stop the cooking and preserve the color. Squeeze out the excess liquid and remove the core. Cut the escarole into 2-3 inch strips and set aside.<br /><br />Put the beans, prosciutto, bay leaf, onion, garlic and stock in a pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower to a simmer and let cook for 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and onion and discard. Strain the beans, reserving about 1/2 cup if the cooking liquid. Using tongs remove the garlic and prosciutto. When cool enough to handle cut the prosciutto into 1/2 inch strips. Mash the garlic into a paste and stir into the reserved stock.<br /><br />Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium high heat. Add the escarole, season with salt and pepper, and saute for 3 minutes. Add the beans and the prosciutto and cook for one minute. Stir in the cooking liquid and cook for one more minute. Taste and add salt or pepper, if needed. Keep warm.<br /><br />In a medium saute pan add 2 TBSP olive oil over medium high heat. Dry the scallops and then salt and pepper them on both sides. Cook for 2 minutes on the first side. Flip them using a spatula and cook an additional 90 seconds.<br /><br />Divide the escarole and bean mixture between two plates. Place two scallops on top of each plate. Using a micro plane, zest some of the meyer lemon over the scallops. Drizzle with excellent extra virgin olive oil and serve.<br /><br />The recipe was modifed from Alfred Portale's Simple Pleasures. Of all the cookbooks I have (and I have a lot) this is one of the best ever.http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2009/01/recession-gourmet-scallops-with.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-2970407975296359855Mon, 15 Dec 2008 07:00:00 +00002008-12-14T23:03:03.342-08:00braisingitalyosso bucoporisotto milanesevealHot Legged Braisin' Hussy - Osso Buco Milanese<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SUXqrkIIZqI/AAAAAAAAAh0/-NKnv7_4CYQ/s1600-h/DSC_0621+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279884172314830498" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 288px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 226px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SUXqrkIIZqI/AAAAAAAAAh0/-NKnv7_4CYQ/s320/DSC_0621+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>The warm sun drenched coast along the Adriatic sea. Opting for discretion out of the spotlight of the movie star laden Italian Riviera. Lying in the sand by the Po river delta I purposefully only see between the knees and ankles. Bronzed and smooth. I'll admit it. <strong>I'm a leg man</strong>.<br /><br />Marisa Miller. Eva Longoria. Sophia Loren. Long legged sensuality. Or perhaps you are thinking of something more hussy like - a woman considered brazen and immoral in her day. Someone that once defined being saucy and impudent simply by fashioning her long legs in <strong>lingerie and stillettos</strong> like the scandalous <a href="http://www.bettiepage.com/">Bettie Page</a>?<br /><div><div><br /><div>And ladies, lest we forget you. Lago di Como playboys like DiCaprio and Clooney...or perhaps a more tasteful local representation like Massimo Troisi of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jCSiCL85R0">Il Postino</a> fame?<br /></div><div></div><br /><div>I am sorry to say that none of these silverscreen players interest me. You see the weather has finally turned cold and I am now in my element. No sun, nor sand, nor beautiful people. My thoughts are consumed with my favorite <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braising">cooking technique of braising</a>. </div><br /><div></div><div>Often I am asked by friends and anyone that can withstand the torture of my talking about my passion for cooking "What do you like to cook?" A simple question I suppose. However, as I have developed my cooking ability over time I am drawn more towards specific cooking techniques and less towards a specific food I like, because, well, I enjoy so many kinds of food. I really don't have <strong>a favorite dish</strong>. Italian. French. Indian. Latin. All of that is meaningless to me. But I love applying different cooking techniques. And to braise, well it just doesn't get any better in terms of simplicity or outcome.</div><br /><div></div><div>Long. Slow. Hearty. A well executed braise allows tougher cuts of meat to stand out and shine like a movie star. The technique of low and slow braising excels any time you can take advantage of a cut that includes the bone. Short Ribs. Lamb Shanks. Even Coq au Vin. The flavor dimensions become so pronounced when cooking this way. Shanks of any kind are excellent for braising. The area between the knee and the ankle is full of meat that can be made <strong>moist and succulent </strong>as the animal's collagen breaks down. There is no need for stillettos to have this kind of fantasy.</div><br /><div></div><div>The real key in any braise is to thoroughly brown the meat at a high heat in the pot which you will be completing the cooking. Two key elements are accomplished. First, the meat develops a textured crust that will hold up to the long, slow and wet process of a slow stovetop or oven braise. Second, the pot captures an overtly deep <strong>layer of flavor</strong> that will become the star player to the ultimate dish. Braised dishes usually develop a rich liquid that is served with the meat as part of its final production. A key element readers of my blog know given my very <a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/10/french-dip-mussels-provencale-style.html">personal thoughts</a> on being saucy. </div><br /><div></div><div>I re-created this classic Milan style preparation, borrowing shamelessly from Mario Batali's version developed at Po, the restaurant that launched his career. In my version, I add San Marzano tomatoes to his basic tomato sauce recipe and the <strong>positively dramatic</strong> effect on the outcome of this dish cannot be overstated (or so my agent tells me)...</div><br /><div></div><div>Also, while I can be a fan of the use of the Italian finishing garnish of gremolata (chopped raw garlic, lemon zest and parsley), I declined to use that here. I feel that the intense flavor of raw garlic is too overpowering. I simply finish with some chopped Italian parsley which provides a clean flavor against the richness of this succulent dish. Scandalous to not <strong>stay true</strong> to the classic, I know. And I am not referring to being a brazen hussy either.</div><br /><div></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SUWlflJzE2I/AAAAAAAAAhc/0Okqcx9Y7sI/s1600-h/DSC_0573+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5279808100129510242" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 264px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SUWlflJzE2I/AAAAAAAAAhc/0Okqcx9Y7sI/s320/DSC_0573+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong>Recipe for Osso Buco with Risotto Milanese<br /></strong></div><div>Serves 4</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><strong>Ingredients</strong></div><div></div><div><strong>For the Tomato Sauce</strong></div><div>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil</div><div>1 white onion, chooped into 1/4 dice</div><div>4 garlic cloves thinly sliced</div><div>3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme</div><div>1/2 medium carrot, finely shredded</div><div>2 28oz cans whole tomatoes crushed by hand, with juices</div><div>salt to taste</div><div> </div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>For the Osso Buco</strong></div><div>4 veal shanks (about 1 lb each)</div><div>salt and pepper</div><div>6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil<br />1 medium carrot, chopped into 1/4 inch coins</div><div>1 small white onion, chopped into 1/2 inch dice</div><div>2 Tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves</div><div>2 cups basic tomato sauce (see below)</div><div>2 cups chicken stock</div><div>2 cups dry white wine</div><div>1/4 cup chopped Italian Parsley</div><div></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>For the Risotto Milanese</strong></div><div>3 1/2 cups chicken stock, heated in a 2 quart saucepan</div><div>1/2 cup white onion chopped into 1/4 inch dice</div><div>5 Tbsp olive oil</div><div>1 cup arborio rice</div><div>1/2 cup dry white wine</div><div>1 tsp saffron threads</div><div>salt to taste</div><div>1/2 cup grated parmasean cheese</div><div></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Method</strong></div><div><br /><strong>Make the Tomato Sauce </strong></div><div>In a 3 quart sauce pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the thyme and the carrot and cook 5 minutes more until the carrot is soft. Add the tomatoes and juice and bring to a boil, stirring often. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt.<br /></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Make the Osso Buco*</strong></div><div>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Season the shanks with salt and pepper. In a heavy bottom 6-8 quart casserole, heat the olive oil until just smoking. Place the shanks in the pan and brown all over. turning to get every surface browned about 12-15 minutes. Remove the shanks and set aside. Reduce the head to medium, add the carrot, onion, and thyme leaves and cook, stirring regularly, until golden brown and slightly softened, 8-10 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, chicken stock, and wine and bring to a boil. Place shanks back into the pan, making sure they are submerged at least halfway. If shanks are not covered at least halfway, add more stock. Cover the pan. Place in oven for 2 to 2 1/2 hours until meat is tender and falling off the bone. Remove the casserole from the oven and let stand 10 minutes before serving.<br /></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>Make the Risotto Milanese</strong></div><div>Heat the olive oil in a 4 quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and saute until soft but not brown, about 4-5 minutes. Add the arborio rice and toast for about 3-4 minutes making sure all the grains are covered with oil. Add the white wine and cook until almost dry. Ladle 1 cup of chicken stock over the rice so it is slightly covered. Cook, stirring occassionally, ensure the grains are not sticking to the bottom of the pan. It is not necessary to constantly stir risotto. Add more stock as the liquid cooks off and stir. After 10 minutes of cooking add 1 cup stock to a cup or glass with the saffron threads and then add to the risotto. Continue cooking until the rice is plump but firm about 18-20 minutes total. When done the rice should be slightly wet. Add Parmasean cheese and mix. Add salt, if needed to taste.</div><div></div><div><strong></strong> </div><div><strong>To Serve</strong></div><div>Place 1 cup of cooked rice onto the center of a warmed plate or bowl and flatten it out. Place a cooked veal shank over the rice. Ladle some of the sauce over and around the shank and top with the chopped parsley. Serve.</div><div></div><div> </div><div>*Adopted from Mario Batali's Simple Italian Cooking.</div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/12/hot-legged-braisin-hussy-osso-buco.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-7658821691304439666Sat, 22 Nov 2008 02:11:00 +00002008-11-21T21:26:44.951-08:00lambparsnippiescotlandsheperds piesingle maltwhiskyMeeting Thy Money’s Maker - Shepherd's Pie<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SSeTyxS-_qI/AAAAAAAAAhM/rdHVnDoCwXQ/s1600-h/DSC_0436+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271344389296160418" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 288px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 237px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SSeTyxS-_qI/AAAAAAAAAhM/rdHVnDoCwXQ/s320/DSC_0436+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>In the rapid thaw of the global financial meltdown I peeked tentatively at the current state of my 401K the other day. Like virtually everyone else I know seeing one’s net worth shrink dramatically more than justifies <strong>a stiff drink</strong>. The whipsawing of the Dow on a daily basis is enough to make one’s head not just spin but fall right off. The world’s nerves are on the edge and stomachs are churning. My jaw dropped as I watched my wealth fall to the floor. All of this is so uncomfortable – it’s unsavory, isn’t it?<br /><br />Normally I am a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single_malt_Scotch">single malt scotch </a>drinker with a penchant for expensive but worthwhile tastes of fine, hand crafted whisky. I was just out of college when my dad had taken my family on our first overseas trip to the UK. An eye opening moment in the bar of London hotel in 1991 transformed my then 23 year old view of fine sipping spirits. My father, a successful businessman, took me down to the hotel bar to have a little chat. Amidst oak walls and leather club chairs a hundred single malt scotches ranging from smoky to peaty, and salty to mineraled sea air stared at me. Laphroig. Balvenie. Balblair. Caol Ila. Oban. There was (and is) <strong>a lot of wisdom</strong> sitting in those bottles.<br /><div><div><div><br /><div>I was just starting my business career and I was excited by all the possibility. “The world is your oyster” he told me in that way that only a father can give prudent advice to a son. I was admiring the amber hue of one of the <strong>original small batch</strong> creations. Liquid poetry given to the world by <a href="http://www.poets.org/poet.php/prmPID/709">Robert Burns' </a>forefathers. “Just don’t forget that nothing comes easy in life and there is no such thing as easy money. You have to work hard if you want to get ahead”. And so we drank. I felt like such an adult that night.<br /><br />Like a lot of people, I have worked hard but somehow it doesn’t seem right in today’s environment to sip <strong>beyond one’s means</strong>. As with so many things nowadays, we are all learning to compromise and reflect on what’s important and what’s not.<br /><br />To help myself through this difficult time I recently turned to a glass of <a href="http://www.makersmark.com/home.siv">Maker’s Mark</a>, a well made American bourbon that is less expensive (but no less impressive) than its Scottish ancestors. I took a drink to ponder all of this chaos and get a little perspective. It was easy to curse all of these arcane securities Wall Street sold us over the last 10 years that all seemed so <strong>exotic and upper crust</strong>. Credit default swaps. Common debt obligations. Hedge funds. Complicated. Wealth creating. Was this really adult? Could we really have it all? Or did we just misunderstand?<br /><br />Reflecting back I think most people agree this societal movement of thinking we can have easy money has been a <strong>recipe for disaster</strong>. Just like the “millionaires” sushi roll covered in 24 karat gold leaf available in Las Vegas, or a $12,000 omelette laden with truffles, caviar and diamonds in Manhattan. Complicated and pretentious. When food becomes a statement about wealth rather than thougthful and delicious eating that is a clear sign the economy is precariously at risk of disintegrating rapidly. If you are spending money eating gold someone needs to slap you.<br /><br />A taste of the bourbon reminded me that right now we are all heading for <strong>simpler times</strong>. Conversation that is meaningful with friends. Perhaps a little less focus on getting ahead and more of a concentration on helping each other get through this difficult period is in order.<br /><br />Last year we had the good fortune of visiting close friends that moved back to Scotland. Residing in the truly glorious city of <a href="http://www.edinburgh.org/">Edinburgh </a>the attitude of the Scots is straightforward. A clever honesty towards others and purity of intent to live within one’s means. Their manner is a telling hallmark of a people that have survived and flourished for thousands of years. It would be an understatement to say that the Scots know how to roll with the <strong>historical punches</strong> (not to mention real ones).<br /></div><div>My good friend Jimmy was born and raised in this amazing city and glad to be back among his family and friends he had known since childhood. An excellent cook, he makes some of the most amazing <strong>British soul food</strong> I have ever tasted.<br /></div><br /><div>Jimmy surprised us with a classic Shepherd’s pie for dinner on a cold Edinburgh evening. It was warm and comforting. Uncomplicated and straightforward. <strong>Simple and savory.</strong><br /><br />We sipped single malt Scotch whisky after dinner relaxing in their magical 1880’s Georgian flat - a stones throw from <a href="http://harrypotter.warnerbros.com/">J.K. Rowlings </a>house (of Harry Potter fame) and sitting at the edge of the University of Edinburgh.<br /><br />Given all the financial chaos brought about by a <strong>misguided notion of success</strong> and the realities of societal fairness, I longed for that evening recently. I cooked a version of Jimmy’s Shepherd’s pie that stays true to its soul but is updated with the addition of a few tablespoons of single malt scotch to deglaze the ground lamb. I also made a parsnip potato crust that adds a sweet perspective to the classic mash topping. Parsnips are one of those unsung heroes of the vegetable world that never seem to get a fair shake. Should you like to make the classic, just leave out these additions. I used a Doublewood aged single malt from Balvenie, enjoying a glass with the pie. It is pretty unusual to drink single malt scotch with food, however I must say this pairing was fantastic and truly met the mark.<br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Shepherd's Pie with Single Malt</strong> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SSeUKHj2U5I/AAAAAAAAAhU/rQN8-BcXGD8/s1600-h/DSC_0462_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271344790409466770" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 279px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 210px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SSeUKHj2U5I/AAAAAAAAAhU/rQN8-BcXGD8/s320/DSC_0462_Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SSd-SfIqnbI/AAAAAAAAAg0/c3uDx-LLg5c/s1600-h/DSC_0436+Crop+1.jpg"></a><br /><strong>Scotch &amp; Parsnip Potato Crust</strong><br />Serves 4<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />3/4 lb russett potatoes peeled, cut into 3" chunks</div><div>2 parsnips, peeled and cut in thirds</div><div>1 stick unsalted butter</div><div>1/2 C milk</div><div>2 T olive oil</div><div>1 T garlic minced</div><div>1 lb ground lamb</div><div>1 1/2 t worcestershire sauce</div><div>1/2 t rosemary, chopped</div><div>1/2 t thyme, chopped</div><div>4 T flour</div><div>1 carrot, finely chopped</div><div>1/2 onion, chopped</div><div>3/4 C beef stock</div><div>2 T single malt scotch or American bourbon</div><div>salt</div><div>cracked black pepper</div><div>1/4 t white pepper, ground<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong> </div><div></div><div>Bring potatoes to boil in 2 quarts of water and boil for 20 minutes. Add parsnips and cook an additional 20 minutes. Drain and mash or put through a ricer. Combine with milk and 2 T of butter. Add 1 T of olive oil and season 1 t salt, 1 t white pepper. Mix well and set aside.</div><br /><div>In a large skillet over a medium flame heat remaining 2 T butter. Add garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add ground lamb and brown for 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and cracked black pepper. Add the worcestershire sauce, thyme and rosemary. Cook for an additional 2-3 minutes. Cover meat mixture with 2 T of flour and stir well. Cook an additional 2-3 minutes. Drain lamb on paper towels and remove any remaining fat from the skillet.</div><br /><div>Heat an oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9 x 12 baking dish.</div><div></div><div>Return skillet to medium flame and add chopped carrots and onions. Brown for 5 minutes until soft. Cover with remaining 2 T of flour, cooking for an additional 2 minutes. Turn heat to medium high and add beef stock and single malt scotch to deglaze. Cook for 2-4 minutes until the liquid is reduced by half. Add back in lamb mixture and combine. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper if needed.</div><br /><div>Pour lamb mixture into the buttered baking dish. Cover with the mashed potato mixture and smooth out the top. Drizzle 1 T olive oil over potato mixture and sprinkle lightly with 1/2 kosher salt. </div><br /><div>Bake for 40 minutes and serve.</div><br /><div><strong>Notes</strong></div><div>For an absolutely traditional version of this recipe you can substitute 1/4 cup white wine for the single malt scotch and you can substitute an additional 1/4 lb of potatoes for the parsnips. The recipe was adapted from the Dean and DeLuca cookbook. </div></div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/11/meeting-thy-moneys-maker-shepherds-pie.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-3747415005019714286Mon, 20 Oct 2008 03:08:00 +00002008-10-19T23:02:44.423-07:00franceherbsmusselsPernodprovencaleProvencewineFrench Dip - Mussels "Provencale" Style<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPv5iCFPTGI/AAAAAAAAAfs/yzQyuCeAIqo/s1600-h/DSC_0336_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259071352954899554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPv5iCFPTGI/AAAAAAAAAfs/yzQyuCeAIqo/s320/DSC_0336_Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>My entire food life revolves around sauce. Dry rubs - forget it. A simple grilled piece of fish or steak? Not interested. That rich chocolate torte you made and are putting in front of me...It better have some raspberry coulis next to it or I may <strong>just get nasty</strong>.<br /><br /><div>I'm saucy and not afraid to say it.</div><br /><div>I am not sure how this evolved. My dad and I virtually come to blows when we discuss barbeque sauce and its place on the table so it's <strong>clearly not genetic</strong> (as you can probably tell, I think it belongs, he thinks it should be banished).<br /></div><div></div><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPwHJJO1xdI/AAAAAAAAAf8/NrMXNOSGYbM/s1600-h/Pernod.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259086318540277202" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPwHJJO1xdI/AAAAAAAAAf8/NrMXNOSGYbM/s320/Pernod.jpg" border="0" /></a>On my last night in San Diego before moving up to the Bay Area, we walked over to a wonderfully casual French bistro called <a href="http://www.bleuboheme.com/">Bleu Boheme</a> in Kensington. Earlier that day I had crashed the U-haul moving truck into a neighbor's car which ended up costing $2400. A few really nice dinners in <strong><a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Provence">Aix-en-Provence</a></strong>. Add to that a dead battery and an hour on the phone with a less than helpful customer service rep hadn't helped my mood. I was miffed. OK, pissed off actually (excuse my French). Working all day, <strong>my muscles were tired</strong> from lugging boxes and lifting furniture. I was exhausted mentally, physically, and economically.</div><div></div><br /><div>Entering the restaurant brought me right back to a trip in the south of France to Provence. Warm mineral walls and light blue banquettes. The smell of lavender herbs you find in the country outside Arles. A whiff of herbal anise scented <a href="http://www.pernod.net/">Pernod </a>from a <strong>pastis in Nice</strong>. The troubled and lovely Edith Piaf crooning "La vie en rose" in the background. I needed liquid therapy.<br /><br /><strong>I dove headfirst</strong> into a whirlpool bath glass of champagne to get my bearings. Sipping measuredly, I started to calm down a bit. Just enough to open the menu and look at the 6 choices of mussels they were serving that night. Because all of that flavor isn't in the gentle tasting bi-valve <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mussel">molluscs</a> of the Mediterranean.<br /><br />It was time for something with real dipping potential to satisfy my hunger and <strong>saucy worldview</strong>.<br /><br />Herbs. Pernod. White Wine. Mussels <strong>steamed to perfection</strong> in this Provencale goodness. And a basket of warm, crusty French bread to soak it all up.<br /><br />I made my own version of the Blue Boheme dish from that evening and took some inspiration from the fabulously talented Maria Helm Sinskey's "The Vineyard Kitchen" to come up with this version adding a generous amount of herbs, some Pernod, and <strong>my secret weapon</strong> for adding flavor to sauces - anchovies.<br /><br />This came out very well and is fairly easy to make. With all that delectable sauce I could <strong>eat a truckload</strong> of these...Damned U-Haul.<br /></div><br /><div><strong>Recipe for Mussels Provencale <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPwdl5C96nI/AAAAAAAAAgE/IEtjr97lBsE/s1600-h/DSC_0304_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259111001667529330" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SPwdl5C96nI/AAAAAAAAAgE/IEtjr97lBsE/s320/DSC_0304_Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></strong>Serves 2<br /></div><br /><div>1 lb black mussels (12-15 per person)<br />3 T olive oil<br />1 small shallot, diced<br />1 clove garlic, minced<br />1 anchovy, minced<br />2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped<br />4 sprigs fresh thyme<br />6 large basil leaves, julienned<br />1 pinch salt<br />1 C white wine<br />1 t Pernod liqueur*<br />1 T fresh Italian parsley, chopped<br /><br />Scrub the mussels and debeard them. Keep them cool or refrigerated until ready to cook. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, head the olive oil over a medium high flame. Add the shallots and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook for one more minute. Add the anchovy and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook for about 2 minutes until they begin to break down. Add the thyme sprigs, half of the basil, salt and wine. Bring to a boil. Add the pernod and place the mussels in the pan. Cover and cook over medium high heat for 6-7 minutes, shaking the pan 2-3 times. Take off the lid and discard any unopened mussels. Using a sloted spoon place the mussels into ceramic bowls. Remove the thyme sprigs and ladle the sauce over the mussels. Garnish with remaining fresh basil and parsley. Serve with french bread toast and white wine.<br /><br />*Pernod is French made liquor that has a black licorice taste. You can substitute 3 T of chopped fennel and saute with the shallots for a similar and very tasty effect.<br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Garlic &amp; Herb French Toast</strong><br />1 artisan baguette, sliced lengthwise in half<br />1/2 stick butter, melted<br />2 cloves garlic, minced<br />4 T fresh Italian parsley, chopped<br />salt<br />cracked black pepper<br /><br />Pre-heat an oven to 325 degrees. Brush each side of the sliced bread with melted butter. Spread minced garlic and parsley over bread and season lightly with salt and pepper. Place the bread halves back together and wrap tightly in aluminum foil. Bake for 15 minutes. Slice into 2 or 3 inch portions and serve.</div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/10/french-dip-mussels-provencale-style.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-5187783018022950000Sun, 05 Oct 2008 20:45:00 +00002008-10-06T19:12:36.983-07:00BelgiumbrusselschocolateLa Grande-PlaceMannekin PisparissproutsSweetly Savoring Brussels<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SOgN21V8hyI/AAAAAAAAAZo/cHgUeGKfaD4/s1600-h/Brussel+Sprout+Crop+4.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253464201010906914" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SOgN21V8hyI/AAAAAAAAAZo/cHgUeGKfaD4/s320/Brussel+Sprout+Crop+4.jpg" border="0" /></a>I truly adore chocolate. And every time I taste it I am brought right back to one of the best places I have indulged myself. Enveloped in the old world Belgian capital of Brussels. A city of contrast and history that diplomatically negotiates with itself over competing Dutch and French roots. Some say Brussels is the smaller cousin to Paris. Sort of its <strong>“mini-me” to the French</strong>.<br /><br />Brussels (Bruxelles in French) is home to the European Union, the remarkable La Grande-Place (a UNESCO World Heritage site), and the no less intriguing and very amusing <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Manneken_Pis_(crop).jpg">Manneken Pis</a>...one of the world's earliest well known "small men". He pre-dated another famous smaller French gentleman by about 600 years (Napoleon). Small, but aggressive, Napoleon was a bold contender in a small package. He was permantently exiled after his loss at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Waterloo">Battle of Waterloo </a>in Belgium.<br /><br />Brussels is an elegant, reserved and understated younger sister to Paris. No less welcoming than the Gaulic capital, she is coy about her petite figure, regardless of her oversized affect on the world.<br /><br />Belgium is known, and has been over centuries, for chocolate. While major strides have been made in the United States to better appreciate and understand this <strong>gourmet extragavance</strong>, it is the adherence of old world manufacturing techniques, made in small batches, that delivers such gastronomic delight.<br /><br />Delicate. Complex. Warm. And <strong>very lively.</strong> Truly an adult taste. I might be describing a confection from Leonidas. Or a singularly monumental taste of Neuhaus. Or perhaps the quirky Belgian love of french fries and mayonaisse.<br /><br />But I am not. <strong>I am describing Brussels Sprouts.<br /></strong><br />Cultivated in what is now Belgium since the 13th century, this vegetable is grown in cooler climates from autumn to spring. If you can buy them on the stock they will stay fresh for several days. Cooking the sprouts too long brings upon a bitter taste. A bit like the <strong>"Napoleon of Cabbage"</strong> (they hail from the same family roots), brussels sprouts are loaded with excellent sources of vitamin A, C and dietary fiber. An alter ego that is laughably small, yet a culinary force that must be paid attention to. Cooked correctly they are delicious and there is no need to exile them from your kitchen.<br /><br />The word "vegetable" comes from the old French root “vegetābilis” and latin stem “vegetare” which means “to enliven”. A previous trip to Belgium gave us the opportunity to stay at the boutique <a href="http://www.brusselshotel.travel/rooms.php">Brussels Welcome Hotel</a>. Upon entry of the modest exterior the place immediately transformed us from old to new, and back, with a lively display of rooms set in exotic themes from around the world. Strolling through the ancient and reserved capital, a player by design or circumstance in many of the empires over the last 10 centuries, I thought of the the clever English poet Andrew Marvel who authored <strong><a href="http://www.luminarium.org/sevenlit/marvell/coy.htm">“To his Coy Mistress”</a></strong> and wrote:<br /><br /><em><span style="font-size:85%;">“Had we but world enough, and time,<br /><strong>This coyness</strong>, lady, were no crime.<br />We would sit down and think which way<br />To walk, and pass our long love's day;<br />Thou by the Indian Ganges' side<br />Shouldst rubies find; I by the tide…<br />…My <strong>vegetable love</strong> should grow<br />Vaster than empires, and more slow.”<br /></span></em><br />My vegetative soul has shown me that brussels sprouts, unlike gourmet chocolate, do not take themselves seriously. They’ve been around much too long to worry about their place in the world. Reserved and understated. Yet bold and enlivening when they need to be. A pleasantly coy alternative with <strong>a deceptively delicious story</strong> to tell.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SOkeMmQZViI/AAAAAAAAAaA/vBeW96BjW6A/s1600-h/Cooked+BR_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5253763642080974370" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SOkeMmQZViI/AAAAAAAAAaA/vBeW96BjW6A/s320/Cooked+BR_Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong>Recipe for Brussels Sprouts </strong><br /><strong>with Dijon Mustard Thyme Butter</strong><br /><div>Serves 4</div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Ingredients</strong></div><div>1 lb brussels sprouts, halved with outer leaves removed</div><div>1/4 lb (one stick) unsalted butter, room temperature</div><div>1 T Dijon mustard</div><div>1 shallot finely chopped</div><div>1 clove garlic, minced</div><div>1 T fresh thyme leaves, chopped</div><div>salt and pepper</div><br /><div></div><div><strong>Method</strong></div><div>Bring a 3 quart sauce pan of water to a boil. When boiling, add salt and then brussels sprouts. Cook for 7 to 8 minutes at a low boil.</div><div></div><br /><div>While the brussels sprouts are cooking, make the butter by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl.</div><br /><div></div><div>Drain the brussels sprouts and then add back into the warm saucepan. Add the mustard thyme butter, coating the sprouts well. Season with salt and cracked black pepper and serve.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div> </div><div>This recipe was adopted from Deborah Madison's "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone".</div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/10/sweetly-savoring-brussels.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-4532777853246081291Wed, 17 Sep 2008 09:23:00 +00002008-09-17T03:41:08.689-07:00Alabamagritsleonardo da vincipancettapolentashrimpTuscanyA Southern Renaissance – Shrimp & Grits “da Vinci” Style<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SNDSUBd4pvI/AAAAAAAAAVU/w1TE5nIWORw/s1600-h/DSC_0635+Crop+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246924807319627506" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="232" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SNDSUBd4pvI/AAAAAAAAAVU/w1TE5nIWORw/s320/DSC_0635+Crop+3.jpg" width="292" border="0" /></a>Sweet and crimson. Gently curved. <strong>Such smoothness against my lips.</strong> My chin was wet as I took a taste. Being my first time this was simply too good. I felt excited and guilty all at once. An exploration of pleasure, I savored every moment. But considering where I was this really should have been forbidden. I never had tasted shrimp like this before.<br /><br />Sitting along the silken white beach of Gulf Shores, Alabama in the Deep South it was hot outside as I overlooked the white capped Gulf of Mexico. I took another bite. A mouthful of red and white ecstasy. Believe me when I say that everyone was doing it and no one was talking. I was in <strong>the heart of Dixie</strong> eating one of the locals best kept secrets. <a href="http://www.gulf-shores-shrimp-festival.com/shrimp_info_shrimp_recipes.html">Royal Reds</a>. Deepwater shrimp caught about 40 miles offshore at a depth of 2500 feet. To catch these amazing creatures is as much an art as it is a science. Harvesting them is much more dangerous and difficult than other species and contributes to the occasional limited availability of these <strong>stunningly delicious crustaceans.<br /></strong><br />Although satiated, I couldn’t stop thinking about this indulgence. I sought out and found one of my favorite southern dishes when I got back to Montgomery, Alabama while on business in the state capital. Montgomery has a genteel, sometimes tortured and certainly<strong> evolutionary history</strong> regarding civil rights in this country. But it has moved beyond that chapter and stands proudly as a quaint and quiet state capitol wrapped around southern hospitality that is welcoming and friendly. At the <a href="http://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel-information/restaurant/mgmbr-renaissance-montgomery-hotel-and-spa-at-the-convention-center/">Renaissance Hotel</a>, a representation of big hotel attitude with a decidedly <strong>southern twist</strong>, I ordered shrimp and cheese grits in the main dining room. True “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Carolina_Low_Country">Low Country</a>” food that was gussied up. And it didn’t disappoint me. Sautéed Royal Reds. A little crispy bacon. A touch of cream. A discreet hint of unadulterated spice served up right in the Bible belt. This wasn’t a light dish, but I must say I was <strong>pleasantly enlightened</strong> by it.<br /><br />Centuries before the civil rights movement <strong>Leonardo da Vinci</strong> had painted the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mona_Lisa">Mona Lisa </a>for Tuscan royalty. He is now considered to be a leading figure of the Italian Renaissance. A truly gifted and evolved being, the term “genius” only partially represents his profound influence on Western culture in art, science and thinking. Although best known for his paintings, he was much more than an artist. He was also a scientist and an inventor. His <strong>risk taking</strong> for trying new things was well known and appreciated by the Italian aristocracy. I got to see some of Leonardo’s work in action at a worldwide traveling exhibition hosted by the <a href="http://www.davincithegenius.com/">Metreon in San Francisco </a>last year. The exhibit showed working replicas of not only some of Leonardo’s revolutionary inventions such as suspension bridges that could be built without cables, but also the first submarine and the concept of a helicopter. Leonardo had a keen sense for looking at a problem and not allowing current methods and ways of doing things from stopping innovation. He wasn’t just an inventor, a scientist or an artist…In a matter of speaking <strong>he was a chef</strong>.<br /><br />I really enjoy Southern cooking but I am always looking at new ways of innovating old favorites. I wanted to update my very personal experience with shrimp and grits into something with <strong>Southern and Italian Renaissance</strong> appeal. And Leonardo’s Italian roots provided me exactly what I needed.<br /><br />I used a good quality Hawaiian Pink Shrimp for this recipe. Although I didn’t use Royal Reds here they are worth trying in this recipe, or just by themselves. You can buy them mail order from several gulf based purveyors including <a href="http://www.joepattis.com/">http://www.joepattis.com/</a>. Not well known outside of Alabama and Florida, if you are in this part of the country they are <strong>absolutely worth trying</strong>.<br /><br />Rather than using bacon I substituted pancetta for this dish and it definitely makes this an Italian invention. I also created a light sauce cooking down some garden grown Italian Roma tomatoes and adding flour to <strong>make a roux base</strong>, complemented with shrimp stock I made from the shells. It’s very easy to make a simple and subtle stock of water and shrimp shells and let that cook down for 40 minutes while you prepare everything else.<br /><br />I don’t really believe in all the <strong>hysteria</strong> of not allowing the use of cheese with seafood. While I understand and appreciate the competing flavor profile against more delicate seafood I used sweeter and milder cheese elements including creamy mascarpone and a touch of fontina. I think I win the argument for this specific preparation.<br /><br />And finally, while I laugh at and love the South’s <strong>aversion to vegetables</strong> unless they are fried I feel that the inclusion of cremini mushrooms, which are simply small portobellos, add a fun earthiness and texture that complement the overall dish.<br /><br />I was <strong>stuck writing this post</strong>, as I have wanted to do this one for a while now. Fortunately my lovely and insightful wife Jennifer provided me some needed momentum to make the Italian connection. And one of my absolute favorite food bloggers, Claudia over at <a href="http://www.cookeatfret.com/">Cook eat FRET</a>, shared some "twisted" southern inspiration from her adopted hometown of Nashville, TN to help me along as well.<br /><br />Although Leonardo would probably not actually have eaten this dish, he was a noted vegetarian after all, I would gladly have this dish as my <strong><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Last_Supper_(Leonardo)">Last Supper</a></strong>…<br /><br /><br /><strong><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SNDTDJg0iVI/AAAAAAAAAVc/eEbL1Dv9-Zs/s1600-h/DSC_0626+Crop+Glow.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5246925616933275986" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 310px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 219px" height="199" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SNDTDJg0iVI/AAAAAAAAAVc/eEbL1Dv9-Zs/s320/DSC_0626+Crop+Glow.jpg" width="290" border="0" /></a></strong><br /><strong>Recipe for Shrimp &amp; Grits “da Vinci” Style</strong><br />Serves 2<br /><br />12 good quality shrimp (with shells if you are making stock)<br />2 oz pancetta, chopped into ½” pieces<br />10 cremini mushrooms, cleaned and quartered<br />2 T olive oil<br />1 clove garlic, minced<br />salt and pepper<br /><br /><strong>For the Polenta</strong><br />1 cup polenta<br />1 cup milk<br />2 cups water<br />Salt<br />4 oz Mascarpone<br />1 oz Fontina<br />4 T Parmesan<br />¼ cup cream<br /><br /><strong>For the Shrimp and Gravy</strong><br />2 T olive oil<br />2 garlic cloves<br />2 Italian Roma Tomatoes, chopped<br />1 TBSP flour<br />1 TBSP Worcestershire sauce<br />¼ to ½ cup shrimp stock (recipe below, or use fish stock from your grocer)<br />Pinch of red chile pepper<br />Salt and pepper to taste<br />Italian Parsley, chopped for garnish<br />Lemon Zest for garnish<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong><br />Turn the oven on to 250 degrees. Wash the shrimp and shell them. Dry the shrimp and refrigerate. In a saucepan add one cup of water and bring to a low boil. Add the shrimp shells and let cook down for 30 to 40 minutes. Strain the stock and set aside. You should have about ½ cup of stock.<br /><br />While the stock is cooking heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add the pancetta. Cook until crispy, stirring occasionally, about 5-6 minutes. Drain pancetta on a paper towel and reserve the pan and drippings.<br /><br />Using a 3 quart saucepan, place on a medium high flame and add 2 cups of water and 1 cup of milk. When the liquid boils turn the heat down to medium and slowly whisk in the polenta in a thin stream. Stir constantly. This should take about 1-2 minutes but it is worth it. Do not add the polenta all it once or it will become lumpy and the end product will not have a smooth and delicious texture <strong>Leonardo would approve</strong> of. Lower the flame to low-medium. You want a slight bubbling of the polenta mixture, more than a simmer, less than a boil. Stir every so often (but not constantly) so that the mixture does not stick to the bottom of the pan. If the mixture starts to get too thick, turn the heat down and add some milk. Cook and stir for 25 minutes.<br /><br />While the polenta is cooking prepare the mushrooms. In another sauté pan over medium high heat add 2 T olive oil. When hot add the mushrooms and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring to make sure all sides get cooked and slightly caramelized. Add salt and pepper to taste. Take off the heat and place in a warm oven along with two plates you will use for serving.<br /><br />Re-heat the saucepan with pancetta drippings over a medium high flame. Salt and pepper the shrimp lightly and add to the pan. Cook for 90 seconds on each side so it is slightly caramelized. Remove shrimp from the pan and place on a plate. Add the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds to one minute until softened. Add the chopped tomatoes to the pan and cook over high heat for 2 minutes until they begin to break down. Lower the heat and add the flour. Cook for about 1 minute. This will create a reddish blond roux (that’s a sauce base, not the name of a <strong>New Orleans hair dresser</strong>). Add the Worcestershire sauce and 1/4 cup of shrimp stock. Cook gently for about 1-2 minutes until combined and slightly thickened. If too thick, add more stock. Strain the sauce and add back into the saucepan. Add a pinch of the chile flakes to the sauce and then add the shrimp back into the pan. Turn off the heat.<br /><br />Add the cheese and cream to the polenta and mix well. Taste and add more salt if needed.<br /><br />Mound one cup of cooked polenta on a warm plate and spread it out slightly. Place 6 shrimp and half of the mushrooms over the polenta. Spoon the sauce on top and around the plate. Garnish with chopped parsley and grated lemon zest. Pour a glass of Pinot Grigio with this and I’ll tell you how <strong>stunning and smart</strong> you look against the backdrop of a Southern Italian sunset...http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/09/southern-renaissance-shrimp-grits-da.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-6787255735087996206Sat, 06 Sep 2008 21:10:00 +00002008-09-06T14:21:41.165-07:00#SFN08foodbuzzheirloom tomatomarin farmers marketorganicrisottoslow foodslow food nationRubber Neckin’ Local – Roasted Heirloom Tomato Risotto<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLI3cggdUI/AAAAAAAAAU8/dQQmffyopuM/s1600-h/DSC_0563+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5242973771083576642" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="172" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLI3cggdUI/AAAAAAAAAU8/dQQmffyopuM/s320/DSC_0563+Crop+1.jpg" width="299" border="0" /></a>I had driven around the area slowly with my head out the window, trying to find my way to the market. I had no idea how I got there, yet there I was at the Marin Farmers Market holding an organic Golden Roma Italian Tomato in my hand. And struggling with an awakening of what to do with my good fortune. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Heirloom Tomato Season</span> is in full swing in the Bay Area and this bounty of colorful local produce was being displayed in all its glory. Row after row of foodstuffs brought together from local farmers across <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 /><st1:place st="on"><st1:placename st="on">Marin</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">County</st1:placetype></st1:place>. All part of growing and powerful local food movement driven by rigorously organized and caring citizens like those behind <a href="http://marinorganic.org/index.php">Marin Organic</a>.<br /><br /><?xml:namespace prefix = o /><o:p>My recent move to the San Francisco Bay Area has put me into a pleasantly uncomfortable new world of living, thinking, watching and learning. Just as in any move to a new place, nothing is familiar. I find myself <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">g</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">awking around Marin</span>. New restaurants to discover. Gorgeous organic food to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">“ogle”</span> at in farmers markets as well as regular supermarkets. Rustic scenery of ancient redwood trees towering above the <st1:place st="on">Pacific Ocean</st1:place> surf. Rubber necking really.</o:p><br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><st1:placename st="on">Marin</st1:placename> <st1:placetype st="on">County</st1:placetype> starts at the north end of the <st1:place st="on">Golden Gate</st1:place> and bridges cutting edge ideas about how to live with others while displaying a “heart on your sleeve” kindness and activism of its local residents. All of that is overlaid upon a naturally beautiful and dramatic setting of passionately worked organic farmland that serves a commitment to growing, selling and feeding its population locally. And in the most <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainability">sustainable</a> way possible.</o:p> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p><o:p>The commitment to “local” living here is a true expression that I hope serves as a model for the rest of the country to consider as we all become more aware of the food we eat, how it is grown and where it comes from. This philosophy is embodied in the <a href="http://www.slowfood.com/">Slow Food</a> movement that started in <st1:country-region st="on">Italy</st1:country-region> by <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECzTRG7tjV0">Carlo Petrini </a>and has found its way to the <st1:country-region st="on"><st1:place st="on">United States</st1:place></st1:country-region>. Slow Food is the opposite of "Fast Food" and all that comes with the implications of hurried life. Its logo is a snail. Although Slow Food principles are easy to understand - good, clean and fair food - it’s a lot to take in if you haven’t been exposed to this way of thinking, eating and ultimately living. Prince Charles and Lady Camilla are believers, so you know this idea has legs.</o:p> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Since moving here I have been surprised by how open locals are to new residents. After being here for all of six days we decided to get involved in the native scene. It turns out this openness is connected to the activism of acting locally. Last Saturday evening we were guests of the gracious and charming editors and managers of <a href="http://www.foodbuzz.com/">Foodbuzz </a>– a rapidly growing on-line community of food lovers. We met up with them at <a href="http://slowfoodnation.org/">Slow Food Nation</a>, sort of a “coming out” party for Slow Food in the United States which is being championed by legendary Bay Area chef <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Alice Waters </span><span class="Apple-style-span">of Chez Panisse</span>. Serving a worldwide audience, Foodbuzz seeks to create an on-line community for those interested in food on a local, national and worldwide level via community generated publishing of recipes, photos, blogs and restaurant reviews. A way of letting a global community act intimately. Looking at what each other has to offer. In a sense, a very local experience made possible through technology.</o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Slow Food Nation brought together over 60,000 people from across the country to share in the philosophy of “slowing life down”, eating good food, understanding how that food is farmed and appreciating the taste of locally grown and created cuisine. I was fortunate enough to get into the SFN Taste Pavilion. A 60,000 square foot exhibit hall featuring 15 different categories of food presenting <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">l</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">ocal and sustainable</span> approaches to cooking. So many things to see, do and taste. My head spun as I tried to calm down over the excitement of this amazing scene. We traveled around the pavilion tasting artisan chocolates from different parts of the country. Producers from <st1:state st="on">Utah</st1:state> and <st1:place st="on"><st1:state st="on">Massachusetts</st1:state></st1:place> sampled a chocolate making approach that is closer to making fine wine than large scale production. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>We stopped by the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Native American</span> foods area that featured bison chili. My first try at what is probably the original “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_range">free range</a>” food. In a word – <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">delicious</span>.</o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal">And still more to discover, look at, taste, and ponder. Cheeses…Wines…Coffee…Seafood…Honey…Our eyes were moving faster than our mouths. Individual tastes that promoted a sincere understanding of flavor via thoughtful farming and well executed, precision cooking. Producers, farmers and chefs all involved to proudly present and talk about their passionate and thoughtful approach to the food they love. And its growing importance to its impact on the planet. This was a <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">cerebral awakening</span> in the most flavorful of journeys.</p><p class="MsoNormal">Back at the <a href="http://www.marincountyfarmersmarkets.org/sanrafael.htm">Marin County Farmers Market</a> in San Rafael the next day I was looking around at all of this beautiful food. The previous night was still on my mind. Multi colored peppers that looked like a Santorini sunset over the Aegean. Strawberries that tasted of sugar. Freshly harvested chervil and other herbs. Local. Fresh. Sustainably farmed. This is slow food.</p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLJxFUZJPI/AAAAAAAAAVE/h1VlAktXO9M/s1600-h/DSC_0556+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5242974761291162866" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="266" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLJxFUZJPI/AAAAAAAAAVE/h1VlAktXO9M/s320/DSC_0556+Crop+1.jpg" width="283" border="0" /></a>I craned my neck and gawked at stand after stand of brightly colored heirloom tomatoes. They were everywhere.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"> I love tomatoes.</span> Sliced raw. Gently cooked as the star ingredient for a fresh sauce. Roasted for intense sweetness. It really doesn’t matter for me as long as the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">flavor is true</span>. I came across a local producer who had magical Brandywines, Mr. Stripeys, Persimmons, Green Zebras, Cherokee Purples.<br /><br />And there it was. Standing by itself. Shining. The <a href="http://www.ghorganics.com/GoldenRomaItalianTomato.htm">Golden Roma Italian Tomato</a>. Glorious. Gourgeous. Plump. Delicious. What could I do with this singularly amazing heirloom fruit? The previous evening’s activities still very much on mind, I wanted to do justice to this beautiful tomato. My mind raced. A tomato tart with bouqerones and manchego? Too complicated. Cool Gazpacho? Possible, and a truer flavor platform. But more like a double then a home run.<br /><br /><p class="MsoNormal">I slowed myself down and thought “What would an Italian innovator like Carlo Petrini or a food revolutionary like Alice Waters want to eat if I hosted them for dinner and all I had to work with was this tomato and what was in my cupboard?” Let the ingredient speak for itself. I bought a pint of <a href="http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/">Straus Family Creamery</a> organic cream and drove home. </p><p class="MsoNormal">Although I have never met Mr. Petrini or Ms. Waters, I think they will like this if I ever get to cook for either of them. It only took a worldwide movement to make me slow down and look around a bit for the answer.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><strong>Recipe for Roasted Heirloom <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMIcXicSxdI/AAAAAAAAAUE/gtsgeg05q-8/s1600-h/DSC_0556+Crop+1.jpg"></a></strong><strong>Tomato </strong><strong>Risotto <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLIHpGFdSI/AAAAAAAAAUs/qDVvaO25rqw/s1600-h/DSC_0584.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5242972949828695330" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="297" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SMLIHpGFdSI/AAAAAAAAAUs/qDVvaO25rqw/s320/DSC_0584.JPG" width="273" border="0" /></a><br />Makes 4 servings</strong></p><p class="MsoNormal"><strong>Ingredients<br /></strong>5 Heirloom tomatoes (I used Mr. Stripey, Italian Golden Roma, Brandywine and Abraham Lincoln) Fresh thyme sprigs (4 to 6)<br />2 T plus 1/4 C Olive Oil<br />Kosher Salt and Pepper<br />1/2 white onion, chopped<br />1/2 C dry white wine<br />1 C arborio rice<br />4 C vegetable stock or broth<br />1/4 C cream<br />6 T freshly grated parmesean with more for serving<br />2 T fresh basil, julienned</p><strong>Method</strong><br />Heat an oven to 325 degrees. Place the tomatoes in a baking or ceramic dish and coat with 2 T olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cover with thyme sprigs. Roast for 35 minutes or until the skins begin to wrinkle.<br /><br />In a saucepan, warm the vegetable broth over a medium low flame.<br /><br />Heat another saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining 1/4 C of olive oil. Heat until fairly hot and then add the onions, cooking them until translucent 3-4 minutes. Add the arborio rice stirring to coat each grain with the oil, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until evaporated about 1 minute. Add enough vegetable stock to the rice until just covered. Stir occasionally. The rice should cook but not boil. Continue to add stock every few minutes as it cooks off. You want to maintain enough stock to cover the rice until the liquid cooks down slightly and then add more. Continue to stir occasionally. You do not want the rice to stick to the pan. The rice is ready in 16-18 minutes and should be creamy consistency. If cooked properly the rice grains will have a very suitable hardness when you bite it.<br /><br />Turn off the heat and stir in the cream and parmesan cheese. Add salt to taste. Chop the roasted heirloom tomatoes directly in the roasting pan or on a cutting board. Stir the chopped tomatoes into the rice.<br /><br />To serve ladle the rice into a warmed bowl and top with fresh basil and a few shavings of fresh parmesan.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/09/rubber-neckin-local-roasted-heirloom.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-5201648205012290321Sat, 30 Aug 2008 04:15:00 +00002008-08-29T21:21:50.880-07:00Chesapeake Baycrabcrab caketacotortillaVirginiaBreaking Tradition – Crab Tacos “Chesapeake Bay Style”<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SLisbOU-btI/AAAAAAAAATI/-t4fc-QkWnI/s1600-h/DSC_0544.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240127750148091602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SLisbOU-btI/AAAAAAAAATI/-t4fc-QkWnI/s320/DSC_0544.JPG" border="0" /></a>Over the last year I have spent a lot of time on the <strong>East Coast</strong>. And while I have enjoyed seeing this part of the country, it’s not a place I have ever felt comfortable spending a lot of time visiting. There is an <strong>attitude of superiority</strong> when it comes to tradition that those of us on the West Coast have never fully understood. Don’t get me wrong, the other coast has a lot to be proud of. The founding of our country. Crab. Wall Street. Crab. The birth of flight. <strong>Crab</strong>. All great achievements and wonderful <strong>traditions</strong>. And to an extent innovation. That is until it comes to food…<br /><br />I was talking with a waiter at a notable seafood restaurant while on a business trip to Virginia a few months ago and the conversation turned to <strong><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crab_cake">crab cakes</a></strong>. “People on the West Coast don’t know really know how to cook and serve shell fish,” the waiter said against a back drop of overly dramatic dark wood paneling and fish nets covering the walls. I was told the ideal preparation is lots of crab with some seasoning and breading. Served simply with colelaw and french fries on the side. “Do you have any other <strong>innovative ways of serving</strong> the crab?” I inquired. “We've prepared it for generations this way” he exclaimed looking down his nose at me. Captain Tradition insisted that was all that was needed regardless of my west coast curiosity about how else the cakes might be served. It just didn't seem right to me. It was, well, <strong><a href="http://www.nd.edu/~rbarger/www7/puritans.html">puritanical</a></strong>.<br /><br />"Let the crab’s sweetness speak for itself" he said. I could buy that. After all, <strong>I love simplicity</strong> in cooking, especially when showing off good ingredients. That is until he brought out the tartar and cocktail sauce, and extra lemon. "What’s that about?" I thought to myself. In this instance Captain Tradition explained that these “complementary” <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">accouterments</span> helped to bring out the delicious flavor of the crab.<br /><br />I was puzzled to say the least. Mayonnaise, pickles and ketchup complement seafood? Drenched in acidic lemon juice? I was not getting this tradition. I ate the crab cakes and they were fine. Nothing that blew me away however, other than a <strong>feeling of despair</strong> that there was so much potential locked up in that little cake with no way to really show himself off other than lying on a plate. Lonely. Next to <strong>runny and lifeless</strong> coleslaw.<br /><br />On my return to the West Coast I was still a bit miffed at the holier than thou attitude towards crab preparation and I needed an <strong>attitude adjustment</strong>. So I decided to go North to get some perspective. I moved to the <a href="http://www.cityofmillvalley.org/">San Francisco Bay Area</a>. Drastic, I know, especially after a run in with a snooty waiter.<br /><br />The commitment to food in Northern California is unparalleled - a happy side effect I am the beneficiary of. A move to this beautiful part of the country motivated by family reasons that is paying dividends. I love the pro-active and <strong>thoughtful use of good ingredients</strong> in this part of the country. And with that, a level of innovation and re-invention of tradition in relation to food seldom seen anywhere else in the United States…especially the East Coast.<br /><br />Don’t get me wrong Boston. Maryland. Maine. You guys know seafood. But can’t you <strong>loosen up</strong> and dress it out a bit? Unbutton that oxford collar shirt perhaps? Trade in those loafers for flip flops? I mean seriously, things can be improved on and it’s well beyond the time for a new look here. That poor crab cake/coleslaw/french fry tradition is looking like shorts hiked up well past the mid section with dark socks and sandals to match. Out of place but no one is really saying anything as you float by on the cruise ship of entrees. And I know you know what I am talking about.<br /><br />Our staid and preppy crab cake could use a <strong>hot night out</strong> and a new attitude. You know what I mean. Your out with your friends until the wee hours. 7 or 8 tequila shots are downed and everyone is feeling good and a little to talkative. And then the usually dependable voice of reason in the group, old crab cake picks up his head up off the paper place mat on the table and says “I really love you man. I’ll get up on that stage and shake my money maker for you.” And when this crab cake <strong>tradition collides</strong> with a hot night of tequila that can mean only one thing – <strong>tacos</strong>.<br /><br />You heard me. Just go with me for a minute and think about this. A typical crab cake is presented by itself. Often, old tag-along coleslaw is right there hanging out, sort of behind the velvet rope on the plate. Bland. Boring. Flavorless. Definitely not an "A-Lister". It adds nothing to the overall experience on its own. Some luke warm fries are thrown down as an afterthought. And that is just wrong. It’s served this way because it is a tradition. Sure the crab is sweet and everything. But these components don’t really work all that well together and that is what is missing. Throw on a squeeze of lemon and you are tasting a mouthful of acidic citrus. It’s all an afterthought and I think it's <strong>time for an intervention</strong>.<br /><br />Since crab goes amazingly well with corn, the tortilla (soft corn tortillas East Coast people, no such thing as a hard taco shell in Mexico – note the West Coast attitude)...is the perfect platform to help the crab cake break out of its funk. Crab cakes make for excellent fillings in a taco. Crisp and crunchy on the outside. Soft, sweet and hot on the inside. Rolled up in a warm corn tortilla. Sort of like <strong>crab cake cleavage</strong>. Accents of lime scented cabbage slaw. A bit of cilantro. Perhaps a drizzle of lime jalapeno crema.<br /><br />We’re talking about a hot night out in Tijuana. You can just tell that I am miles from <a href="http://www.chesapeakebay.net/aboutbay.aspx?menuitem=13953">Chesapeake Bay </a>right now. Trust me, I have lived about 15 miles from the Mexican border for most of my life and I know what I am talking about. It’s time Mr. Crab Cake relaxed and ordered up a few <strong>shaken margaritas</strong>.<br /><br />Don’t get all superior or puritanical on me East Coast. Give this a try and tell me just how much fun <strong>breaking tradition</strong> can really be.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SLh4gaZhG-I/AAAAAAAAATA/-7Lx2nBTMZ4/s1600-h/DSC_0524+Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240070664683068386" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SLh4gaZhG-I/AAAAAAAAATA/-7Lx2nBTMZ4/s320/DSC_0524+Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a><strong>Recipe for Crab Cake Tacos with Lime Cilantro Slaw &amp; Tequila Jalapeno Cream<br /></strong>Makes 4 tacos<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients<br />Crab Cakes<br /></strong>2 T finely chopped green onion</div><div>2 T finely chopped red bell pepper</div><div>1 T chopped cilantro</div><div>4 T mayonnaise</div><div>2 T olive oil</div><div>1/4 tsp cayenne pepper</div><div>1/4 tsp salt</div><div>1/4 tsp pepper<br />3 T panko bread crumbs</div><div>1/2 lb Dungeness lump crab meat</div><br /><div><strong>To cook the crab cakes</strong><br /></div><br /><div>1/3 cup flour</div><div>1 egg</div><div>2 T milk</div><div>8 T panko bread crumbs</div><div>1/2 cup vegetable oil</div><br /><div><strong>Cilantro Cabbage Slaw<br /></strong>1/2 cup red cabbage, thinly sliced</div><div>1/2 cup red bell pepper, thinly sliced</div><div>1/4 cup cilantro, chopped</div><div>1/4 cup fresh lime juice </div><div>1 T olive oil</div><div>salt and pepper to taste<br /><br /><strong>Jalapeño Lime Crema</strong></div><br />1 jalapeño pepper<br />1/4 cup sour cream or Mexican crema<br />Juice of 1/2 lime<br />1 T lime zest<br />salt and pepper to taste<br /><br /><strong>To Serve</strong><br />4 corn tortillas, soft<br />Lime wedges for serving<br /><br /><div><strong>Method</strong><br /></div><div></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>Prepare the Crab Cakes</strong> </div><div>Mix all ingredients <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">thoroughly</span>, except the crab, in a medium bowl. Form crab mixture into 2 inch in diameter cakes that are 1 inch high. Place on a sheet pan or plate that is covered in wax paper and then cover crab cakes with plastic wrap. Chill in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.</div><br /><div><strong>Make the Red Bell Pepper and Cabbage Cilantro Slaw</strong><br /></div><div>Add all ingredients to a bowl and mix lightly. Season with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature for up to one hour.</div><br /><div><strong>Make the Jalapeño Lime Crema </strong><br />Roast the jalapeño directly over a gas flame until charred all over. Transfer the jalapeño to a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool. Peel, seed and coarsely chop the jalapeño. In a food processor, puree the sour cream and lime juice with the jalapeño until smooth. Mix in the lime zest. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the crema to a small bowl and refrigerate.<br /><br /><strong>Cook and Assemble the Crab Cake Tacos</strong><br />Heat the oven to 200 degrees and place tortillas wrapped in foil on the middle rack. Place flour in one bowl, egg and milk beaten together in a second bowl and panko bread crumbs in a third bowl. Dip crab cakes in flour and dust of excess lightly. Dip crab cakes in egg wash covering them entirely while handling them gently. Brush off any excess egg wash and then cover the entire crab cake with panko bread crumbs.</div><br /><div>Heat a non stick pan over medium high heat and add oil. Fry crab cakes for 8 minutes turning them over after 4 minutes. They should be golden and crisp. Place on paper towels and drain.</div><br /><div>Place a corn tortilla on a plate. Cut one crab cake in half and place cut side in the middle of the tortilla so that when you fold it the flat edge of the cut cake will be at the bottom of the folded tortilla. Place 1/4 cup of the slaw on top. Drizzle with the jalapeño lime crema. Serve with lime wedges on the side.</div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/08/breaking-tradition-crab-tacos.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-5604109271609875876Fri, 01 Aug 2008 07:01:00 +00002008-08-01T07:00:22.988-07:00balsamicLondonsconesstrawberryteaStaring Down Fear...Strawberry Balsamic Scones at Afternoon Tea<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SJKZRxj84hI/AAAAAAAAASs/xQsg3Usi064/s1600-h/DSC_0224.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5229410647971521042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 312px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 205px" height="194" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SJKZRxj84hI/AAAAAAAAASs/xQsg3Usi064/s320/DSC_0224.JPG" width="300" border="0" /></a>The opponent stood motionless and stared me down. No sound. No feeling. Not even an emotion. He could do nothing and win. For me there was no choice. I was sweating and <strong>feeling fear</strong>. The tension was palpable. And I had to do something. A pile of <strong>six bricks </strong>was staring right back at me. I wasn't sure what was causing more pressure on me. The thought of <strong>my hand potentially breaking </strong>as it was going through this stack of stone, or dozens of people watching me. <strong>What if</strong> <strong>I failed</strong> by either account? I had been promoted to black belt 6 months earlier after years of <a href="http://bp2.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SJC_fT4nvXI/AAAAAAAAASk/I8YLLwkkbSU/s1600-h/DSC_0224_Crop1.jpg"></a>Karate training and <strong>I'd broken wood before</strong>. But bricks? This would be a lot harder.<br /><br />A visiting karate master teaching us how to break stone took me aside. Quietly he told me the whole point in this exercise is not to focus on the bricks, or to worry about what happens to your hand when it hits them. Just <strong>focus on the end state</strong> you want. A large and muscular man weighing about 230 pounds he was a world champion breaker. He walked over to the stack of stone and gently caressed it with his hand. He then looked at me and said "You can do this." Just <strong>get in touch with your feminine side</strong>".<br /><br />6 months earlier I was sitting in the luxurious <a href="http://www.athenaeumhotel.com/default.aspx">Athenaem </a>in London on my first of what would become over 2 dozen trips to one of the world's greatest cities. This fine hotel sits across from the idyllic <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_Park">Green Park</a>. They are known for their afternoon tea with scones and clotted cream.<br /><br /><strong>I love afternoon tea</strong>. It is really one of life's true pleasures. Relaxing with a friend or loved one. Sipping tea. Eating sweet delicious things. A calm sets over that is so serene, especially in beautiful surroundings. It is seated meditation. And those scones...<strong>a mouthful of heaven</strong>...Soft but with a pleasing texture...Just a touch of sweetness...So very feminine.<br /><br />I consider myself to be <strong>well adjusted</strong> from the <strong>Y chromosome</strong> perspective, as well as up for a challenge. Which is why I am posting this story and recipe. You see, unlike all of you talented (and mostly female) bakers in the blogosphere, I am absolutely <strong>terrified of baking</strong>. I would rather break bricks.<br /><br />Cooking is one thing. Some technique sure. A pinch of this. A little bit of that. I have never found cooking to be that difficult because one can always recover from such a casual approach. But baking? Not a chance. No room for error. <strong>Absolute precision</strong> in technique. Can men really do this?<br /><br />In the month I have been food blogging I have watched some of you and what you can do. And <strong>you are Masters</strong>. <a id="fwq9" title="Tartlette" href="http://tartelette.blogspot.com/">Tartelette</a>, your publishing accomplishment speaks to your high rank and stature as a baker. <a id="o6rc" title="Canelle et Vanille" href="http://cannelle-vanille.blogspot.com/">Canelle et Vanille</a>, the precision shown in your photographs is unmistakable and looks effortless. <a href="http://www.latartinegourmande.com/">La Tartine Gourmande</a>, a powerful and indisputable femininity that is fully in control of the kitchen. I don't know any of you. But you are all my teachers.<br /><br />For this recipe, I wanted to do something that challenged my fear of baking with my first <strong><a href="http://foodblogga.blogspot.com/2008/07/announcing-shf-45-berries.html">"Sugar High Friday"</a></strong> entry. Pressure, I know. But I like pressure when I cook. I do my best this way. I have never made scones, I have only eaten them. I worked with a recipe from the Joy of Baking and modified it based on what I wanted as the end state. To capture and re-create the pleasantly soft texture of a freshly made scone in London.<br /><br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>Since we are in the height of strawberry season, and use of that ingredient is the requirement of the SHF challenge, I wanted to incorporate an <strong>unusual aspect</strong> to the recipe. I gently mascerated the strawberries in aged balsamic vinegar, and dusted them with freshly ground pepper prior to baking the berries into the scones. </div><div></div><div></div><br /><div>A pleasing sweetness with a touch of spice. Certainly one<strong> definition of femininity</strong> to me. </div><br /><div></div><div>And I gently topped the finished strawbery scones with a glaze accentuated by lemon zest. Harmony. Balance. Zen. </div><br /><div>Making the scones was like martial arts training because it required such concentration. First, I had to measure everything exactly. My dear wife (the baker of the household) handed me a set of measuring spoons. "What are these? Why can't you just use a pinch or a handful" I asked. "Baking has none of that" she said. I felt the tension and out of my element. It only got worse. The recipe called for "using a pastry blender or cutting the cold butter with two knives so that the flour and butter mixture looks like course meal". The knife thing sounded kind of macho, sort of like close combat hand to hand fighting with a Ginsu. I went with that technique. Doing the cutting was a zen-like activity. It took 15 minutes to complete and my forearms were in agony. But I became one with the butter. </div><div></div><div></div><br /><div>Finally, I got to improvise. The recipe called for regular plain vanilla yogurt mixed with vanilla extract. We had Brown Cow Cream Top Vanilla so I used that and it felt good...until the fear set in. Would these scones be dry and tasteless? A failure in execution? My first real attempt at baking in such a public forum leaving me crushed?</div><br /><div>I must say that the end product was moist and succulent. The scones came out well. Although some scone recipes are purposefully dry, I personally don't enjoy that kind of texture and the yogurt eliminates this problem. The balsamic mascerated strawberries lend a complex but sweet taste that I find very complimentary to a scone as well. </div><br /><div></div><div></div><div>I have taken the first small step in overcoming my baking fear. I really enjoyed this Sugar High Friday challenge and I want to thank Jennifer of <a href="http://domesticgoddess.ca/pages.php?page=10002"><strong>Domestic Goddess</strong></a>, the force behind SHF, and fellow San Diegan Susan at <a href="http://foodblogga.blogspot.com/"><strong>Food Blogga</strong></a> for hosting this month. Thanks for letting me share my journey with all of you. By the way, I ended up breaking the bricks. But that was significantly easier than baking these scones.</div><br /><div><a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SJC-yf9JiqI/AAAAAAAAASc/UjCyjHHEfWs/s1600-h/DSC_0187_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228888942157859490" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 282px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 182px" height="187" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SJC-yf9JiqI/AAAAAAAAASc/UjCyjHHEfWs/s320/DSC_0187_Crop+1.jpg" width="292" border="0" /></a></div><div><strong>Recipe for Strawberry Balsamic Scones </strong><br /></div><div><strong>with Lemon Zest Glaze</strong> </div><div>Makes 6 Servings</div><br /><div><strong>Ingredients for the scones</strong><br />3/4 cup fresh strawberries, hulled<br />1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar<br />1/8 cup granulated sugar</div></div></div><div>2 cups (280 grams) all purpose flour<br />1/3 cup (65 grams) granulated white sugar<br />1 teaspoon baking powder<br />1/2 teaspoon baking soda<br />1/4 teaspoon salt<br />6 tablespoons (75 grams) unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces</div><div>Freshly ground black pepper<br />1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk plain yogurt<br />1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract<br />1 large egg, lightly beaten</div><br /><div><strong>Ingredients for the Lemon Zest Glaze</strong><br /></div><div>1/2 cup (110 grams) powdered sugar</div><div>1 tablespoon lemon juice</div><div>Zest of 1/4 lemon<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong> </div><div>In a small bowl add the whole strawberries and cover with the balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle the sugar over the berries and toss to coat. Let this sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Chop the strawberries into small 1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces and discard the remaining balsamic liquid.<br /></div><br /><div>Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (177 degrees C) and place rack in middle<br />of oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or use a silpat.<br /><br />In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Cut the butter into small pieces and blend into the flour mixture with a pastry blender or two knives. The mixture should look like coarse crumbs. Stir in the chopped strawberries. In a small measuring cup whisk together the yogurt, vanilla extract, and egg. Add to the flour mixture and stir just until the dough comes together. Do not over mix.<br /><br />Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead the dough gently four or five times and then gently form the dough into a circle that is about 7 inches (18 cm) round and about 11/2 inches (3.75 cm) thick. Cut the dough into six triangles. Place the scones on the baking sheet or silpat.<br /><br />Bake for 18 minutes or until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let the scones cool. </div><br /><div><strong>Make the Lemon Glaze</strong> </div><div>In a small bowl combine the powdered sugar and lemon juice. The mixture should be slightly runny. If it is dry add a little more lemon juice. Add the lemon zest and mix to combine. Brush the glaze over the top of the scones and serve. </div></div></div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/staring-down-fearstrawberry-balsamic.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-6741220312717398332Sat, 26 Jul 2008 02:30:00 +00002008-07-26T04:39:47.213-07:00Al FornoBBQfigpizzaprosciuttoAdam and Eve Takeout - BBQ Pizza of Fig, Gorgonzola and Prosciutto<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIqMGhlp43I/AAAAAAAAARI/kDi1Mi_gkRk/s1600-h/DSC_0147.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227144361240290162" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIqMGhlp43I/AAAAAAAAARI/kDi1Mi_gkRk/s320/DSC_0147.JPG" border="0" /></a>Certain things in life just go together. Adam and Eve. Heather Locklear and David Spade. Barbecues and Pizza…Sometimes the most <strong>curious combinations</strong> bring about the most delicious results. Chile and chocolate seem made for each other, as I have written about previously <a href="http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/cant-we-move-onchipotle-chocolate-creme.html">here</a>. Combining clams and chorizo, a magical <strong>culinary wonderment</strong> of Portugal, is something my eyes were opened to on a previous trip to London, as another example.<br /><br />Okay, from a <strong>biblical perspective</strong> it’s pretty clear that Heather and Dave getting together was a <a href="http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/12804646/">bad idea</a>…But I am telling you right now that the pizza and the barbecue were meant to be united. And the home cook is the one that gets lucky in this unusual but effective <strong>culinary technique hookup</strong>.<br /><br />Assuming we can all agree on the "genesis" of a good pizza – a <strong>thin crispy crust</strong>, the right balance and quantity of ingredients and a less than obnoxious amount of cheese, a homemade barbecue pizza delivers guaranteed results for the home cook. Any good pizza boils down to how good the crust is. You can have the <strong>best toppings</strong> in the world, but if the crust isn’t making your heart go wild with desire, that pizza is not going to make it past first base. Don’t think that dressing it up all pretty with a revealing anchovy or sensual wild mushroom is going to help. It may be <strong>“perfectly groomed”</strong> but everyone will still be able to tell what it really is - one unattractive pizza.<br /><br />And unless you want to build a wood fired brick oven or buy an expensive high heat pizza maker, you options are pretty limited. Pizza stones, although an attempt in the right direction, provide mediocre results at best. Sort of like an opening pick-up line. Good attempt, poor execution. The premise is right, heat the stone in a hot oven that provides an appropriately hot surface to crisp up the crust in 10-12 minutes without overcooking the entire pizza. However, the results with this approach leave me less than, well, let’s just say <strong>“in love”</strong>. And that process takes too long, heating the stone and all. The investment in that courtship never winds up how you want it to anyways.<br /><br />Americans <strong>lust</strong> for anything related to the barbecue. And not being one to miss out on a good time I have been using the <strong>pizza grilling</strong> technique since 1994. I was fortunate enough to eye a television demonstration of the concept done by the owners of <a href="http://www.alforno.com/">Al Forno</a>, a restaurant in Rhode Island widely credited with innovating this concept in the United States.<br /><br />At its core, the pizza is simply a delivery vehicle for good ingredients. And the barbecue approach lends itself to any combination your heart (and stomach) desires. I am a huge lover of tapas and was <strong>fooling around</strong> with the idea of how I could serve one my favorites created by superstar chef Mario Batali that involved grilled figs with Serrano ham and blue cheese. My challenge involved a tapas appetizer for a dinner party but no easy way of serving such a messy dish while guests were standing up and mingling, iced Pinot Gris in hand. Being the height of fig season, and the fact that it was hot outside, I wanted to provide my guests with a way to <strong>enjoy the tapas</strong> but not have to use a knife or fork. Or worry about swallowing a large bite as the stuffed and wrapped figs can get pretty large and unwieldy. I also didn’t want to heat up the house by turning on the oven. My solution was to <strong>deconstruct</strong> it and transform it into a grilled pizza on the barbecue.<br /><br />Grilling pizza is very easy to do and success is predicated on <strong>preparation</strong> before you start cooking. All the ingredients need to be ready to go, literally <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mise_en_place">“mise en place”</a>. Whatever ingredients you are using, make sure they are ready, plated and easily movable to your outdoor BBQ from the kitchen when you are ready to start cooking. Once the dough hits the hot grill, you need to work fast to cover up that naked pizza and you don’t want to be running back to the kitchen in shame prepping anything or your timing will be all off.<br /><br />From a BBQ perspective, while any heating source will work - gas, charcoal, wood - I consistently get the best results with a gas grill. You can control the temperature throughout the relatively short cooking process which is important. BBQ pizza takes 6-7 minutes to cook completely. I have burned the crust using charcoal for heat. Just ask David (my cousin, not Spade).<br /><br />Also, a word about making pizza dough versus going the store bought route. Occasionally I make my own dough but I find a <strong>negligible difference</strong> in quality of the end product versus buying store bought dough for the BBQ method. I use dough made from Trader Joe's, however if your store doesn’t carry it, most independent pizzerias that make their own will sell you pizza dough. Just <strong>don’t use a national chain</strong> for the dough as it defeats the purpose of highlighting great ingredients for what should be a good time.<br /><br />Now, take a bite out and tell me how <strong>“deadly delicious”</strong> and good looking this pizza is. I wonder if Heather and David would have lasted longer had they only tried this instead of eating the forbidden fruit of the old apple tree…<br /><div><div><div></div><br /><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIqGkrSX1pI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/k62WtHJJJBM/s1600-h/DSC_0139.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227138282170078866" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 314px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 208px" height="195" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIqGkrSX1pI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/k62WtHJJJBM/s320/DSC_0139.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a><strong>Recipe for BBQ Grilled Pizza with Figs, Prosciutto and Blue Cheese<br /></strong>Makes 1 Pizza and serves 2-3 as a main course<br /><div>or 4-6 as an appetizer<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />16 oz fresh pizza dough<br />Flour for rolling<br />Olive oil for dough and grill<br />½ cup fig jam (recipe below) or store bought<br />4 ripe figs (I prefer Mission but any fresh ripe fig will work)<br />3-4 oz of Gorgonzola or other blue cheese<br />3 slices of prosciutto cut into 3” strips<br />1 TBSP chopped flat leaf Italian parsley<br /><br /><strong>Method</strong><br />Bring pizza dough out of the refrigerator for 5-10 minutes. In the meantime, make sure your grill grate is clean and scraped. Heat the BBQ on high for 10 minutes with the top down. Flour a large cutting board or a counter where you can roll out the dough. Flour the top of the dough and roll out the pizza into a roughly 6” by 10” shape with a ¼ inch thickness. Keep in mind when grilling pizza the dough does not need to be round or perfect, it can be any shape when you put it on the grill. Brush olive oil onto the surface of the dough so it is lightly covered.<br /><br />Open the grill cover and lower the grill heat to a medium high flame. Pickup the dough up and carefully lay it on the hot grate. As you are laying the dough on the grate it will stretch. That’s fine, just make sure it is relatively flat on the grill, again the shape doesn’t matter, oblong, heart shaped, map of Kazakhstan - all are fine. Close the grill cover and let this cook over a medium high flame. After 2 minutes, open the grill and with the tongs check the bottom of the dough. It should be golden with grill marks. You can cook it for one additional minute if the dough is not golden. If there are bubbles on top of the dough you can use the tongs to pierce them. Turn the dough over and bring the heat down to medium low to low.<br /><br />Spread the fig jam and then crumble the blue cheese over the pizza. Lay out the figs and close the cover, cooking for 4 minutes. Open the grill and check for doneness. If you need another minute, leave the grill on or if it looks done, turn the grill off. Scatter the prosciutto strips over the pizza and then sprinkle the chopped parsley on top. Using your tongs slide the pizza onto a cutting board. Slice and serve.<br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Fig Jam<br /></strong>I use store bought fig jam often, however if you are up for making your own, please try this delicious and easy to make <a href="http://artsy-foodie.blogspot.com/2008/07/quick-and-simple-fig-jam.html">recipe </a>from fellow food blogger Alexa at <a href="http://www.artsy-foodie.blogspot.com/">http://www.artsy-foodie.blogspot.com/</a>.<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />Makes 1/2 cup<br />5 ripe figs, coarsely chopped</div><div>1/3 cup of water</div><div>2 tablespoon of agave nectar (or honey)</div><div>1/2 tsp of cinnamon</div><div>1/2 tsp of chopped crystallised ginger (optional)</div><div>1/2 tsp of vanilla extract</div><div>1/2 tsp of fresh lemon juice</div><div><br /><strong>Method</strong></div><div>Combine all the ingredients in a small pot over medium-low heat and bring to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, mixing every few minutes, until thickened to a jam consistency. Cool on a plate and refrigerate until ready to serve. It will keep for 3 days in the fridge. </div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/adam-and-eve-takeout-bbq-pizza-of-fig.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-766252736506993247Sat, 19 Jul 2008 00:00:00 +00002008-07-18T17:14:21.452-07:00coffeecreamdessertespressogranitaitalyromeMy Dream...Espresso Granita Con Panna<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIEqf945CrI/AAAAAAAAAQg/6tg3WkBRiBE/s1600-h/DSC_0080_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5224503771403979442" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 267px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 198px" height="198" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIEqf945CrI/AAAAAAAAAQg/6tg3WkBRiBE/s320/DSC_0080_Crop+1.jpg" width="280" border="0" /></a>I was dreaming the other day about <strong>Rome</strong>.<br /><br /><div><div><div>Not about the <strong>unfairly attractive</strong> Italians dressed so stylishly while seemingly at ease. Nor about the monumentally towering architectural wonders that make the Italian capital one of the most stunning in Europe. And not even about what Italy is so well known for - its remarkable pasta. Or is it Art? No matter. None of that occurred to me during this wonderment of food related rapid eye movement that holds true meaning. <strong>I was dreaming of espresso</strong>.<br /><br />So many cultures seemingly own a specific food or drink that is directly associated to their identity. For the French, one could argue it is wine. Argentinians can raise their hand for beef. Think of the Japanese and you think of sushi. For Americans it might be barbecue. But for coffee, there is no argument. Not French. Not Columbian or Costa Rican. Not even an exotic Middle Eastern or African land. There is only one place where <strong>perfect coffee</strong> is made and that honor belongs to Italy.<br /><br />I love coffee in any form it wishes to give itself to me. Hot. Iced. Served with steamed milk. Providing a layer of richness in chocolate desserts. A surprisingly triumphant coating for rack of lamb. There are so many ways to enjoy one of the world's <strong>great culinary gifts</strong>. But this hot summer day brought me back to a steamy afternoon in Rome. Meandering the capital. Hordes of people lovingly gawking at the <a id="ylcu" title="Trevi Fountain" href="http://www.freefoto.com/preview/14-26-4?ffid=14-26-4&amp;k=Trevi+Fountain%2C+Rome%2C+Italy">Fontana di Trevi</a>. Touristic passion in its most visible form. A frenetic metropolitan chaos that works in spite of itself. We toured the <a id="oqp4" title="Pantheon" href="http://www.destination360.com/europe/italy/pantheon.php">Pantheon</a> in the heart of the city. One of the greatest mausoleums in Italy where Italian kings and royalty are buried. Very much worth visiting, this structure was studied intensely by Michelangelo. His inspiration for the cupola at St. Peters comes right from here. God's house to many. </div><div><div><div><div><br /><div>As we walked outside, we saw little clear plastic cups of brown and white. Mouths smiling. <strong>Tongues dancing</strong>. Small plastic spoons <strong>serving their masters</strong>. A welcome respite from a humid afternoon. And off the Via degli Orfani there stands a temple to Italian Coffee - the <a id="ta43" title="Tazza d'Oro" href="http://www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com/">Tazza d'Oro</a> coffee shop. There is no point in comparing it to Starbucks as that would be like comparing the Pope to the unwashed masses - Being a believer doesn't make you holy. Tazza d'Oro is like coffee that has been brewed by God. An ascendent aroma. No, a miracle. </div><br /><div></div><div>But this shop is not really known for that. It is known for its <strong>granita</strong>.<br /><br />I love granita because it is so <strong>quintessenitally Italian </strong>which usually means complicated. Yet it is decievingly easy to make. Basic ingredients of water and sugar form the crystalline backbone that allow a central flavoring to be displayed in its <strong>true glory</strong>. The ice crystals in granita are so beautiful, as if formed by nature. A higher power.<br /><br />Espresso Granita with freshly whipped cream. Intense. Full of inspiration and simplicity. I <strong>taste angels singing</strong>. This is a calling. It is better than any dream... </div><div><br /><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIEnO_LjkFI/AAAAAAAAAQA/0EVT6LfktMA/s1600-h/DSC_0063_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5224500181158039634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 253px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" height="320" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SIEnO_LjkFI/AAAAAAAAAQA/0EVT6LfktMA/s320/DSC_0063_Crop+1.jpg" width="268" border="0" /></a><strong>Recipe for Espresso Granita with Whipped Cream (Espresso Granita Con Panna)<br /></strong>Serves 4-6<br /><br />2 1/2 cups water<br />1/2 cup espresso (finely ground)<br />1 teaspoon lemon zest<br />6 tablespoons sugar<br />2 teaspoons lemon juice<br /><br /><strong>For the Panna</strong><br />1 cup whipping cream<br />1 tablespoon sugar<br /><br /><strong>Method </strong><br />You can make the espresso either by machine, using enough water and coffee grounds to make 2 1/2 cups, or a french press (which is how I do it sans espresso maker and process works very well) brewing it for three minutes, or simply combine the coffee and the water in saucepan and bring to a boil. Using this method take the saucepan off the heat as soon as the liquid boils.<br /><br />Add the lemon zest and let it infuse with the coffee mixture for 3-5 minutes. Strain the mixture into a bowl through a coffee filter. If you are using a french press add the zest to the pot, infuse as directed, and then strain through the press. Pour the infused coffee into a bowl and add the sugar so it will disolve while the coffee is cooling. Add the lemon juice and stir well.<br /><br />Pour the liquid mixture into a 9x9 pan. It should be about 1/2 inch depth. Freeze for thirty minutes on a flat surface. After 30 minutes take out the pan and with a dinner fork scrape the semi frozen liquid from the perimeter of the pan to the middle of it. Smooth out the mixture so it is flat. At this first stage it will only be semi frozen and quite liquidy. Place the pan back in the freezer and repeat this same process every 30 minutes, or a total of four times for a period of two hours). Each time you scrape the mixture you will help the granita crystals form.<br /><br />In a non reactive bowl, mix the whipping cream and sugar together until stiff peaks form.<br /><br /><strong>To Serve</strong><br />When you are ready to serve the Granita take it out of the freezer and let it warm up for 5 minutes. Scrape each serving from the pan with a spoon. The texture will look like hard snow. </div><div><br />In a glass or serving dish spoon about 1/4 cup of whipped cream. Add a 1/3 cup of granita. Add another 1/4 cup of whipped cream and then a 1/3 cup of granita. Finish with a small dollop of whipped cream on top and serve.<br /><br />This recipe is modified from Nadia Rosen who wrote a wonderful book titled "Granita Magic". I have used her book often to learn how to make granitas and it is excellent. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/my-dreamespresso-granita-con-panna.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-9189220093500374435Fri, 04 Jul 2008 17:18:00 +00002008-07-13T16:04:20.489-07:00adriaarzakbarcelonabilbaocherriesguggenheimmadridpeachessangriasevillaspainwineDon't You Look Hot...White Peach & Rainier Cherry Sangria<a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SHqDI3HpgjI/AAAAAAAAAPg/BwLl_34-8ZE/s1600-h/DSC_0033_Crop1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222630906147734066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 273px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 209px" height="223" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SHqDI3HpgjI/AAAAAAAAAPg/BwLl_34-8ZE/s320/DSC_0033_Crop1.jpg" width="290" border="0" /></a>It's been a hot summer so far. Like <strong>Plains of La Mancha Hot</strong>. And I need something cool. Easy. Relaxed. Juicy. Fortunately my love affair with all things Spanish can get us through this hot flash. Saffron. Tapas. Paella. <a href="http://www.penelopecruz.com/">Penelope Cruz</a>. <strong>Wine</strong>. These wonderful (and mostly) culinary elements support a lifestyle in Spain I categorize as <strong>"graceful living"</strong>.<br /><br />Spaniards are <strong>beautiful people</strong> (note from wife - <a id="w:mm" title="Javier Bardem" href="http://www.javier-bardem.net/">Javier Bardem</a>) with a special culture and way of life I hope becomes better understood and appreciated in the United States. And when it gets hot the Spanish know how to maintain their cool. A walk through the patio of the soaring Cathedral at Sevilla. The <strong>shade</strong> and smell of <strong>orange trees</strong> intertwined in a <strong>warm breeze</strong>. Nibbling on inventively light tapas at San Sebastian's seaside. Overlooking the Mediterranean from Barcelona's glorious <a href="http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Park_Guell.html">Parc Guell</a>.<br /><br />Such Spanish coolness comes alive in an icy <strong>glass of Sangria</strong>. A pleasant way of drinking and living in these hot summer months.<br /><br />There are many translations of Sangria that speak of how to make it. The basic principle is to marinate <strong>different fruits</strong>, typically citrus, in wine for several hours and then mix it with sugar and sparkling water. Sangria is very food friendly and pairs well with BBQ, spicy foods and uncomplicated preparations. It also stands by itself and can be fully enjoyed without the need for any <strong>supporting actors</strong>...although we can still pour Señorita Cruz and Señor Bardem a glass.<br /><br />While many will argue that red wine is used for traditional sangria, in this day and age those traditions don't mean much. I love the platform sangria offers for <strong>innovation</strong> and often use excellent regional Spanish white wines, including Galician Albarino and Verdejo from Rueda, to make new types of sangrias. Spain has become ground zero for a global food revolution of innovation led by <a id="dg5q" title="Ferrán Adriá" href="http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/FAdria/bio_f_adria.shtml" target="_blank" goog_docs_charindex="2109">Ferrán Adriá</a>, <a id="hzqv" title="Juan Mari Arzak" href="http://www.arzak.info/ing/home.asp" target="_blank" goog_docs_charindex="2125">Juan Mari Arzak</a>, and even the <a id="f6bt" title="Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao" href="http://www.restauranteguggenheim.com/en/presentation/?PHPSESSID=d4f8dd603f86a49fea01616c65ad32c9" target="_blank" goog_docs_charindex="2157">Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao</a>. Their inspiration and passion against the backdrop of Spain has influenced and inspired me to develop this updated, yet simple recipe.<br /><br />Spain. Glorious. Seductive. Innovative. Hot. I hope you have a chance to cool off and ponder this good life while you sip some <strong>summertime in a glass... </strong><br /><br /><strong>Recipe for White Peach and <a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SHpjIop-FvI/AAAAAAAAAPI/vFF9-3HZqjQ/s1600-h/DSC_0020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222595717893068530" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="188" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SHpjIop-FvI/AAAAAAAAAPI/vFF9-3HZqjQ/s320/DSC_0020.JPG" width="291" border="0" /></a></strong><br /><div><div><div align="left"><strong>Rainier Cherry Sangria</strong> </div><br /><div align="left"><strong>Makes 8-10 Servings</strong><br /><br />1 bottle of Spanish White Wine such as Albarino or Verdejo<br />2 ripe white peaches, cut in 1/2 inch chunks with skin on<br />15 Rainier Cherries, pitted and halved<br />2 TBSP Cointreau<br />2 TBSP sugar (superfine preferred but you can use regular granulated sugar as well)<br />1 bottle of sparkling water or club soda </div><br /><strong>Method</strong><br /><br /><div>In a large pitcher combine the wine, peaches, cherries, Cointreau and sugar. Mix well and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. Fill a glass with ice cubes and pour in the sangria and a few pieces of each of the macerated fruits. The glass should be 2/3 full. Top off with club soda and mix gently.<br /></div><br /><div>Note that virtually any fruit can be used in Sangria. If you can't find white peaches, yellow ones also work well. The <a href="http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/food/28676_rainier23.shtml">Rainier Cherry</a> has a short season (May to July) but regular Bing cherries can be substituted or you can use raspberries or strawberries. No matter what fruit you select, make sure it is ripe as this drink is only as good as the sweetness the fruit imparts. Also, if you can't find a Spanish white wine, a crisp California Sauvignon Blanc works well in this recipe.</div></div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/dont-you-look-hotwhite-peach-rainier.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-139458907829018381Tue, 01 Jul 2008 14:00:00 +00002008-07-01T22:21:12.210-07:00cabernetchilechipotlechocolatecreme bruleefoodmalbectravelwineCan't we move on?...Chipotle Chocolate Creme Brulee<a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGpIaJZp41I/AAAAAAAAAO4/imgsGW2ZnPs/s1600-h/DSC_0374_Crop+1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5218062732299461458" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left; width: 259px; height: 217px;" alt="" src="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGpIaJZp41I/AAAAAAAAAO4/imgsGW2ZnPs/s320/DSC_0374_Crop+1.jpg" border="0" /></a>It's official. This week I am naming the chipotle as the single most overused foodstuff of the decade. No small feat in knocking creme brulee off of its 1990's "rode hard and put away wet" mantle. There is an obsession in this country with discovering a new ingredient and overusing it. We are in full gear with the decidedly curious chipotle and there is <strong>no let up</strong> in sight.<br /><br /><div>Not that long ago too many restaurants offered Creme Brulee on the dessert menu. It was as if those chefs not serving it were lacking somehow. Or felt some misguided need to do whatever "the herd" was doing. I appreciated the effort to opening up our country's eyes to something new and different, but after awhile, it got to be a little much. Not that I didn't love creme brulee, I did (and still do). There are so many qualities that make it appealing to eat. Its smooth texture has decidedly luxurious aspect to it. Sort of an <strong>adult vanilla pudding</strong> sans Bill Cosby with a pleasant mouth feel (he was Jell-O's spokesman for you younger readers). So, a waiter might say something like "and tonight we are featuring Creme Brulee - two spoons to share?" And we would order it like lemmings over the cliff. It became time to break off this relationship, like the "ex" we would go back to time and again but for no good reason other than convenience.</div><div><br />Well, we did. The mysterious <strong>Mr. Chipotle showed up</strong> and distracted us from of our unhealthy relationship with Ms. Brulee. It was easy. Love at first sight really. Complex. Mysterious. Spicy. Romantic. It felt like <a href="http://www.couplescompany.com/Features/CT/Movies/Love.htm#1">"Gone with the Wind"</a> on a tortilla with a squeeze of lime. Chipotles are everywhere now.<br /></div><br /><div>I was first introduced to dried and smoked chiles on a business trip to the charming colonial Mexican city of Guadalajara in 1995. A chance lunch of Pork Adobado in a restaurant on the way to a meeting introduced me to the use of smoked chiles in cuisines from both Mexico and the Philippines. Adobado typically refers to some type of smoked or dried chile (ancho, poblano, etc...) that is preserved in vinegar. It is then cooked with a meat for a slightly spicy, typically rustic dish. For whatever reason, what I ordered came with chipotles, which are traditionally made from <strong>dried Jalapeno peppers</strong>. The smokiness of this altered pepper is deep and revealing. A real flavor booster that delivers a complex taste and transforms everyday preparations of beef, pork, chicken and even fish.</div><div></div><br /><div>Having traveled throughout Latin American I have come to love the varied cuisines of these unique regions. And as a resident of San Diego, CA I eat Mexican food regularly. Don't get me wrong, I like chipotles. A few days ago I bought a couple of cans of chipotles at a local market for absolutely no reason. I started to think about how we are now living in such an evolving food culture and how this evolution of chipotles showing up everywhere was <strong>unthinkable</strong> not that long ago. Back in 1999 you couldn't buy a chipotle except in a Latin American food market. Today googling the term "chipotle" returns 4.5 million results. Creme brulee doesn't get even half of that kind of attention from a search engine.<br /></div><br /><div>We definitely have moved on from our sultry ex, Ms. Brulee. However, this love of the Chipotle is pointing toward a relationship attachment problem in our society. Too much of a good thing? While I wish it were the case, I think our problem is worse than that and we might need to <strong>bring in <a href="http://www.drphil.com/">Dr. Phil</a></strong>. We can't stand to be alone, can we? It's time to get real.</div><div><br />Chipotle burgers. Chipotle Pancakes. Chipotle Mayonnaise. "The Herd" is definitely back. I hit my limit this week when I visited the <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/">Food Network </a>site by chance and the #1 recipe was for the talented chef Bobby Flay's "Grilled Chicken Wings with Spicy Chipotle Sauce". <strong>That did it</strong>. Creme Brulee. Chipotles. Isn't it enough already...or is it?</div><div><br />And then I did the unthinkable. I got these <strong>two</strong> <strong>old flames together</strong>. You know what I mean. When you start to tire of a love interest, you think of a previous one, remembering only the good parts. In this instance, bringing together creme brulee and chipotles may be the only case where this is a good idea. I have asked our <strong>dear friend Chocolate</strong> to tag along. Try this recipe, and tell me what you think. Enjoy this sultry, smoky, smooth and sexy dessert with an enormous glass of Zinfandel, Malbec, or a Cabernet Franc from the up and coming <a href="http://www.winesimple.com/featurelink3ArchiveMexico.htm">wine regions of Mexico</a>. It'll be just like old times...with a new twist.</div><div><br /><a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGmQK-oNvXI/AAAAAAAAAOw/lParSejWL5c/s1600-h/DSC_0386_Crop+3.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217860161570192754" style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; float: left;" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGmQK-oNvXI/AAAAAAAAAOw/lParSejWL5c/s320/DSC_0386_Crop+3.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><br /><div><strong></strong></div><br /><br /><br /><div><strong></strong></div><br /><br /><br /><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>Recipe for Chocolate Chipotle Creme Brulee</strong><br />Serves 8*<br /></div><div><strong></strong></div><div><strong>Ingredients</strong></div><div>2 Chipotle chiles split in half with excess adobo sauce removed</div><div>2 cups whipping cream + 1 cup for topping (see note below)</div><div>2 cups half and half</div><div>4 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70%, such as Valrona), coarsely chopped</div><div>4 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely coarsely chopped</div><div>8 large egg yolks</div><div>1/3 cup sugar</div><br /><div><strong>Method</strong></div><div>Preheat oven to 300°F. Combine cream and half and half in heavy large saucepan with the split chipotles and seeds. Bring to a boil mixing occasionally and pressing chipotles to the side of the pan to extra the flavor. Reduce heat to low. </div><br /><div>Strain the mixture, pressing the chipotle solids to extra additional flavor. Pour the hot mixture from the saucepan through a strainer over the chipotle, into medium bowl and then back into the saucepan 2-3 times. Strain one final time back into the saucepan and discard solids.<br /></div><br /><div>Boil water in a tea kettle while you complete the next step.</div><br /><div>Add chocolate and whisk until melted and smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk yolks and 1/3 cup sugar in large bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in hot chocolate mixture to yolks starting with a small amount of hot liquid and whisk quickly. Strain the liquid and egg mixture a final time. </div><div></div><div></div><div>Pour equal amounts of custard among eight 3/4-cup custard cups. Place cups in large baking pan. Add enough hot water to pan to come halfway up sides of cups. Bake until custards are set, about 50 minutes. Remove from water; chill 2 hours. Cover and refrigerate overnight.</div><div></div><br /><div>(Note: a traditional creme brulee calls for a burnt sugar crust to complete the dessert by adding 1 TBSP of sugar over the top of the brulee and either placing it under your oven broiler for 1 to 2 minutes or using a hand torch to caramelize the sugar. While that makes perfect sense for a traditional brulee, I don't believe it works as well here. Rather, I like a dollop of freshly whipped cream with a small amount of sugar or vanilla to lightly sweeten it. You will want something clean to cut the intense flavor and richness of the chocolate and chile and this does it.</div><br /><div></div><div>* Recipe can be cut in half for four servings.</div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/07/cant-we-move-onchipotle-chocolate-creme.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-9044447889259080631Fri, 27 Jun 2008 03:14:00 +00002008-06-29T19:13:16.796-07:00champagnechivescookcookingcuisineeggfoodfrancefrenchgoat cheeseherbsomeletparissaladtravelwineThe Pleasure of an Omelet<a href="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGVefpeD61I/AAAAAAAAAA4/xrLfKTfCmsI/s1600-h/DSC_0305.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216679641179482962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGVefpeD61I/AAAAAAAAAA4/xrLfKTfCmsI/s320/DSC_0305.JPG" border="0" /></a>I can't get my mind off of her. I don't care that she was once scorned. Her curves. <strong>Delicate</strong>. A smooth touch. I used to sneak around, making sure no one saw us together. There is no need to <strong>vilify</strong> her anymore simply because of what she does for a living. She is so <strong>gorgeous</strong> and <strong>sensual</strong>. She gives me exactly what I need, when I need it. Her pleasure is intoxicating.<br /><br /><br /><strong>I love eggs</strong>. They discreetly support our culinary dalliances yet pleasure us with decadent simplicity. A complementary dancer in a waltz of smooth custard. A rock steady partner that never misses a step in the rhumba of chilaquiles. A uniter (more so than any politician) of disparate ingredients that brings together the necessary ingredients to give us a perfectly baked cake. And, at her best she is a perfect guide to savor the purity of deliciously simple ingredients. You know her well. Brulee, flan, custard. Sinful.<br /><br /><br />I know all this to be true having had the pleasure of eating <strong>omelets in Paris</strong>. And I thank the country of France for my obsession and love for eggs. Why? Because while the French excel at the techniques of thoughtful and meaningful cooking (versus phoning it in), there are certain foods they simply cook better than anyone else. If you have not been to France, I hope you make time to go at least once in your life to see what I mean. There are many reasons to visit, but they way they cook eggs is reason enough for me. Excellent cooking focuses on the technical execution of <strong>simple ingredients</strong>. Only the French can cook fish in a simple way with a sincerity of perfection I have never been able to replicate or taste outside their country. The smell of real artisan breads, baguettes, croissants. The airiness. Deeply rustic or gentle crusts that are not an afterthought. And then there is the egg. In my opinion a <strong>true chef</strong> (not necessarily a professional that gets paid to cook) who cares about the end state of their cooking respects the egg and can cook her well. The French do and they do it with seriousness. They view the egg as a central player in the most respected of all meals from a preparation standpoint: <strong>dinner</strong>.<br /><br /><strong></strong><br /><strong>My first tryst</strong> with our mistress of the carton was at Christian Constant's Michelin 3 starred restaurant La Violon D'Ingress in the 7th arrondisement on Rue Saint-Dominque in Paris. A perfectly poached egg sitting atop a salad, with lardons and mustard dressing. Simply cutting into this oval of goodness was an experience I cannot forget. A slightly set yolk that was soft and flavorful. It elevated a simple salad to something greater. Another trip to Paris, brought me to Jamin, where chef Benoit Guichard (Superstar chef Joel Robuchon's executive chef) took over and made a crayfish stuffed raviolo with an egg yolk center. Bursting out of the first cut, the yolk came forth, making a bright orange sauce that delicately complemented the filling. No matter how conservative some view M. Guichard's approach to cooking versus his predecessor, I don't really care. The man knows how to cook an egg.<br /><br />Yet for all of these expensive dining experiences, my favorite way to enjoy the French commitment to cooking eggs is from the humble omelet. Although not complicated to make, it is difficult to cook them perfectly. I have found that using a non stick pan will deliver the most consistent results. Eggfully soft and flavorful of the yolk's goodness, but not overdone. A <strong>medium flame</strong> provides the right amount of heat to allow the protein to harden. Too high of a heat and the eggs will become tough. Mixing in a small amount of cream, milk or even sparkling water, provides a better cooking base than simply a beaten yolk. Add about 1 TBSP for each egg. The most effective technique for properly cooking an omelet simply involves the use of a fork or small spatula that allows you to pull the cooked edges inward to the center so you can slightly lift the pan and allow the liquid egg mixture to move to the perimeter of the omelet. Doing it this way means you don't have to flip the omelet over, a true mark of proper cooking by not "disturbing" the food.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216731576481575362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://bp0.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGWNuri_ccI/AAAAAAAAABI/ksl6009Vswc/s320/DSC_0335.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />Fillings for omelet are endless. However, I find the tanginess and creaminess of goat cheese and the freshness of chopped chives to be the most enjoyable way to have an omelet. Add the ingredients to the center of the cooked omelet and fold it over about 20 seconds prior to coming off the heat. A simply tossed salad of butter or red-oak leaf lettuce with a mustard and shallot vinaigrette and a glass of champagne makes this the <strong>perfect summer evening meal</strong>.<br /><br /><br /><strong>Recipe for Goat Cheese and Chive Omelet</strong><br />Serves 1<br /><br /><strong>Ingredients</strong><br />2 large eggs<br />1 TBSP milk<br />Kosher salt<br />Grind of black pepper<br />3 oz goat cheese<br />3 TBSP chives, finely chopped<br />1 TBSP butter for the pan<br /><br /><br /><strong>Method</strong><br />In a small bowl, beat eggs, milk, salt and pepper gently to combine. Do not over mix, about 10-12 strokes is all that is needed. Heat a nonstick or seasoned 10 inch skillet over medium heat for 60 seconds. Add butter and let it melt to coat the pan. Pour egg mixture into pan and let it cook undisturbed for about 30-45 seconds until the edges start to harden slightly. Using a fork or spatula, gently pull the edges to the center of the pan. Tilt the pan slightly to move the liquid egg mixture outwards to the edges of the pan, keeping the entire pan base covered and let it set. It should take approximately 90 seconds to cook the omelet to this stage. Crumble the goat cheese onto the half of the omelet that is furthest away from the pan handle. You will want to do it this way because you will use the pan handle to flip the uncovered part of the omelet over the top of the goat cheese when you are done cooking. Sprinkle chives over the entire omelet. Slide the omelet onto a warmed plate (175 degree oven for 5 minutes) with the goat cheese covered half coming out of the pan first. When the goat cheese portion of the omelet is on the plate flip the other half of the omelet over the top. You will be able to do this easily because you are holding the pan handle. Dust the top of the omelet with 1 TBSP chopped chives, and a few grinds of fresh black pepper.<br /><br />I let the omelet rest for about 60 seconds before serving. This is similar in a sense to allowing a piece of meat to rest when coming out of an oven or off a hot grill. The heat of the omelet will melt the goat cheese and dissipate slightly so your first mouthful won't be too hot.<br /><br />Please enjoy. It's OK if everyone is watching you.http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/06/pleasure-of-omelet.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5368906377900372213.post-385406748088077570Thu, 26 Jun 2008 06:10:00 +00002008-06-29T19:24:40.582-07:00cookcookingcuisinefoodtravelwineEat Me<a href="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGM7IWFlKJI/AAAAAAAAAAo/xo_iYl5Ykp8/s1600-h/DSC_0254.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216077807979145362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="171" alt="" src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGM7IWFlKJI/AAAAAAAAAAo/xo_iYl5Ykp8/s320/DSC_0254.JPG" width="247" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_CwvhLNDVWLM/SGM5zRa3cWI/AAAAAAAAAAg/PS3Fp6LKYBE/s1600-h/DSC_0271.JPG"></a>“Do you want two meats with that?” I was standing in a diner in Montgomery, Alabama on a blisteringly hot and humid day in the heart of Dixie. <strong>I love food.</strong> And I really can't stand bad food. “Yes ma’am, I’ll have the pully chicken and the fried pork chop”. My fate for the afternoon was sealed. I was likely headed to the bathroom for a date with Mylanta. Honestly, can anyone tell me why we accept poorly made or even puzzlingly mediocre meals at restaurants and pay money for those disappointing results? Does it bother you as much as it does me when friends eat TV dinners at home or look upon a meal as “fuel”? I don’t want me or you to settle for this state of food affairs because in this day and age I don’t believe we have to.<br /><br /><div>I was fortunate to grow up in a household where food was valued. My mom is an excellent cook and she really understood the value of how to execute an entire meal properly. Everything tasted good when she cooked. Food was properly seasoned. Meats were roasted and vegetables sautéed to the correct doneness. An entire meal was put together and orchestrated with meaning. And we sat down <strong>to eat together</strong>.<br /><br />I can’t tell you the number of expense account dinners and multi-star Michelin restaurants I have been to that couldn’t meet the Judy Winitz domestic cooking diva standard ‘a la’ Julia Child. Mom got me going in the kitchen early, and by the age of 10 I was making my own pasta and <strong>homemade spaghetti sauce</strong> using Contadina canned tomatoes, dried oregano and sugar. My dad, no slouch in the kitchen either, brought another dimension to our dinner table: wine. A serious collector and student of oenology, my sister and I learned at an early age the craftsmanship of fine wine and the meaning that other countries and regions placed on it and its relationship to food. We sort of visited the UN every week – wines from France, Spain, Italy, Argentina, Australia, and ultimately Napa Valley made me realize our food roots are far and wide, crossing borders, continents and oceans. Up until that time, I had no idea that the <strong>International House of Pancakes</strong> was bad breakfast food that lacked a global viewpoint. I knew I needed to travel.<br /><br />The correlation between food and wine only became more intense for me as good wine demands complementary meals that are equivalent in execution, while being satisfying and purposeful. At the age of 12 we went on a trip to Napa as my father was on the board of directors of an up and coming winery in the valley. We got to walk through the grape vineyards of Oakville and have small sips of some of the Chardonnay being made. Very much like France, the <strong>soil</strong> and <strong>earth</strong> in Napa has a very distinctive and pleasing scent I still remember. For lunch that day we dined at <a href="http://www.mustardsgrill.com/">Mustards Grill</a>, an early beacon of thoughtful dining based on locally sourced products. I can still taste the smokiness of the Pacific mako shark I ordered. Toothy, flavorful, mature - I loved every bite of it. The importance of good food was rubbing off on me and at 14 years old I was cooking my first family meal: “Poulet de Normande” or <strong>Chicken with Apples and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvados_(spirit)">Calvados</a></strong> from the Normandy region of France. I think my mom and dad drank a French Beaujolais. That meal was excellent.<br /><br />Since those formative years, I have spent a lot of time learning about food and how to prepare it. I am totally self-taught devoting time and effort to learn about the qualities of good cooking. I really believe anyone can cook and eat well. Eating great food means different things to different people. For me it calls out for using the freshest ingredients while executing the outcome perfectly. I'll take a <strong>well executed hamburger</strong> - using the right ratio of ground chuck and sirloin, seasoned properly with salt and pepper, and cooked to the right degree of doneness, over a flavorless and overcooked filet mignon any day. The net result is that food should taste good and we should demand nothing less from those that cook for us, or what we make for ourselves.<br /><br />I’ve wanted to start Chefectomy for a long time. After traveling all over the world and marrying the woman of my dreams (who appreciates food and travel as much as I) Chefectomy is being born to share thoughts and views with others about the many dimensions of food: thoughtful preparation, simplicity in approach and technique, sophistication in execution, and the creativity food can offer and bring us together in an ever shrinking world.<br /><br />The blog title is my humorous take on getting the world to cook and eat better. Professionals that pass off poorly made food for a lot of money need to have this procedure to realize those of us paying money expect more. And for the self taught or home cook, this term provides you the confidence to know you can sling hash with the best of them. Either way, a “Chefectomy” gets you to the same place: Understanding what makes good food good, and how to make it part of your life. Otherwise, there is no room on my plate for anything less. </div></div>http://chefectomy.blogspot.com/2008/06/eat-me.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Marc Winitz)5