You picked this topic up after 8 months...I believe we have given you the best advice so foar to solve the problem...obviously you did not read the first set of replies very well. as your pictures are the exact same ones that AJ posted to help you.

You are trying to take out more than required. The only bolts needed to drop the motor/pump are the 2 bolt heads facing you at the motor sides and 2 above. Take the 2 lower ones out first! If the top ones are slightly stripped as you imply, simply apply hand pressure to the metal hanger mount as you unscrew the bolt and it will come out. Use some force, girl

You picked this topic up after 8 months...I believe we have given you the best advice so foar to solve the problem...obviously you did not read the first set of replies very well. as your pictures are the exact same ones that AJ posted to help you.

You are trying to take out more than required. The only bolts needed to drop the motor/pump are the 2 bolt heads facing you at the motor sides and 2 above. Take the 2 lower ones out first! If the top ones are slightly stripped as you imply, simply apply hand pressure to the metal hanger mount as you unscrew the bolt and it will come out. Use some force, girl

Thanks for the reply! I am taking out the same bolts that AJ described in the post. The images that I took of the rear of the bolts were to illustrate the back of the bolts. Since I could not get a camera behind the motor mount bolt, it is one of the support frame bolts that the photo is of. But the back of the bolt required to come out is the same style.

I have taken another image of exactly what I am trying to do. It illustrates the 4 bolts to remove, as well as where I am putting manual force to try and free the motor mount. I have attempted to free this by adding hand(pulling pressure), jamming a crowbar in as good as I could, and trying to get a chisel/hammer/etc in there. There is very little room to work with so it has not provided much added force if the bolt was stripped.

Success finally. Three of the four bolts were stripped. Ended up bending some metal and forcing the end of a hammer into each connection, and backed out the bolts. Now I'm just hoping that the issue was the sock I found in the pump and breaking it!

Might as well replace the belt while you are at it, that is if you intend on replacing the pump. Better mark how the old belt was routed, others have had trouble.

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May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

I am going to replace the belt, and water pump. I am hoping the image provided of the belt path through the pullys will help with reassembly. It was pretty tough to even get the belt OFF, so I am assuming an even harder job of having to put it all back together.

I wanted to give others a tip: Since my screws were stripped, I called a local repair shop for replacements. They wanted 7$ each for the Screw, 5/16 - 18 x .50 . I went to my local hardware store - home depot and they had an inch long hardened steel replacement for about $1. I wanted to find a 1/2 inch version so I found the identical part, in the highest quality hardened steel - at Fastenal. Try this shop if you are in a similar situation.

I've attached an image of my water pump. It looks pretty clear that the bearing or part that the motor turns is worn down to almost a circle shape when it should be almost rectangular. It is also cracked. I am crossing my fingers that this is the broken piece and my replacement will fix my lack of draining water at the end of the cycle! Thanks ApplianceJunk!

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

In this example we are using a Maytag model NAV5800 washer. If your Maytag or Amana washer has a service panel on the bottom front of the washer it should be the same as the one we used in this example.

Thanks for this tip. This beats the factory suggested procedure, i.e. removing the cabinet and working from the top down to roll the tub and base assembly out and upside down to access the parts. This does indeed acces all the parts, but it's a pain, if all you're doing is replacing a pump or a belt!

I've followed these directions and got stuck at removing the pump from the motor. I removed the 3 torx screws and then the pump just wouldn't let go.

My wife commented to me to "office space" it..

I tried a lot of bad ideas.. but what eventually worked was sticking a crescent wrench between the pulley and the bottom of the pump and just prying the thing off. I'm really not sure what the right way to do this is.. The concern I had about the way I did it, of course, is bending the pulley itself..

Upon removing it, the inside of the bearing and the shaft going into it had a nice rusting to them..

Also, I think it's worth mentioning that it's tricky getting the belt off. I'm worried about getting it back on. For those who haven't done this before, there is a tensioner in the belt path and pushing on it significantly eases belt removal (ie: makes it possible). This may not be obvious to someone who hasn't replaced belts before.

If you mess up the pulley you will need another motor. I have sawed them pumps off with a hacksaw and smoothed up the shaft afterwards. If you beat on it with a hammer you will ruin the motor. You must cut it off. I soak it with rust buster.

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May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL