Brew Edition: 5 Manual Coffee-Making Gadgets Tested

Sub Title: Brew Edition: 5 Manual Coffee-Making Gadgets Tested

If you're still using an automatic coffee-maker, you're doing it wrong.

Manually brewing your coffee lets you control every step of the process, from the grind, to water temperature, to steeping time. By experimenting with different equipment and fine-tuning your method, you can get a cup that's personalized to your tastes each and every time.

I tested five different manual coffee-brewing systems over the course of several months, assessing each for consistency, efficiency and ease-of-use. With each system, I brewed a few batches of coffee according to the manufacturer's instructions, and then I varied my method by adding my own spin. I also used a Bonavita electric kettle to heat water to exact temperatures, when necessary. For beans, I used a few pounds of The Blend from our friends at Weaver's Coffee and Tea, a local roaster here in the Bay Area.

I didn't test popular pour-over products like the Kalita Wave or Hario V60 drippers. While they make excellent cups, we decided to limit this test to single devices that both brew and hold the coffee so we could test several products that each use different brewing methods. The Chemex, being a pour-over gadget, represents that particular method in the round-up, and the fact that the brew cone and the carafe are a single, self-contained unit led us to include it here.

So come in, saddle up, have a cup.

All Photos: Alex Washburn/Wired

Aeropress

I was initially a little skeptical of the Aeropress ($30). People rave about it online, but its too-simple design just looks kind of gimmicky. However, after using it only a few times, it's easy to see why the Aeropress has developed a cult-like following. It was easier and faster to brew with the Aeropress than with any of the other methods, and it had the easiest cleanup. It consistently brewed the best cup every time, and it was my favorite of all the systems I tested, hands-down.

The press itself consists of two pieces: a chamber where you place the filter and the grounds, and a plunger. Measure in your coffee, fill the chamber with water, give it some time to steep, then plunge the liquid directly into your cup. You can use it with paper filters (about $5 for a year's supply) or with a reusable mesh filter such as Able's metal disc ($12.50). I used it with both filters and it works great with either one, though I preferred the paper filters.

And considering how simple the Aeropress is, there are a surprising number of variations on the basic brewing method -- there's even an Aeropress world championship dedicated to fine-tuning the best methods. While I don't think I ever brewed a bad cup with the Aeropress, after experimenting a little, I found I liked Tim Wendelboe's method best.

Chemex

There's a reason the elegant-looking Chemex ($35-$43) has remained a classic for so many years. The brewing process is simple, and it's the easiest choice if you want to make three or four cups of coffee at once, rather than the single or double servings the other methods produce.

While the minimalist aesthetic is part of the reason it's so popular, figuring out the correct proportions takes some practice. I had to play around with the coffee volume, grind type, and water temperature to get it just right. I tested the Chemex with both the proprietary paper filters (I used the pre-folded circles, $8.50/box of 100) and with the steel Kone filter ($60). Both were good, but I thought the flavor was slightly better with the paper filters.

Chemex recommends a water temperature somewhere between 180° and 200° Fahrenheit, but I found that the lower end of this range produced the best results. The coffee started to get a little too bitter once I edged close to 200°. It's important to note that in order to get the best flavors with the Chemex, you really need to let the coffee "bloom" -- pour in the first 150ml or so, then wait half a minute before pouring the rest of the water through.

Clean-up is straightforward, but I might opt for the handled model next time since I didn't like taking the wooden grip apart each time I washed it.

WIRED Cleanest-tasting cup. Simple brewing. Easy clean-up.

TIRED Paper filters aren't as eco-friendly, and reusable filters don't have the same taste. Takes longer to brew than some of the other methods.

Rating: 8 out of 10

Mono Cafino

If you like the flavor of a French press, but not the texture, then the Mono Cafino ($160) provides a happy medium. The Cafino achieves the same level of immersion as a French press, but it uses a removable stainless steel strainer, which filters out all of the grounds prior to drinking. The result is a light, flavorful cup with almost no sediment at the bottom. Although, you will have to steep the coffee a little longer than you normally would to get the richest possible flavor (I found about 5 or 6 minutes to be ideal).

Unfortunately, the device only comes in one size. It's a 30-ounce carafe, but after factoring in the displacement of the filter and the grounds, it can only hold about two large cups of coffee at a time. And, it's expensive -- anywhere between $90 and $170 online, though most stores sell it for $160. For something that's only a single- or double-serving brewer, it's not as practical for everyday use if you drink several cups a day.

WIRED Almost zero sediment. Can also be used for loose-leaf tea. Beautiful Tassilo Von Grolman design.

TIRED One size means you can only brew a couple of cups at a time. Not quite as flavorful as French-pressed coffee. Pricey.

Rating: 7 out of 10

Pina Espresso Maker

The Pina is a typical Italian-style moka pot, sometimes called a "Bialetti" after the manufacturer who originally made them in the 1930s. Though the Pina and other brands are often billed as stovetop "espresso" makers, what they brew is not technically espresso, which requires a very high amount of pressure. The taste and texture may be similar to espresso, but they simply can't create enough pressure to come even close to true espresso makers. It's closer to Turkish coffee, actually.

But if you like this style of coffee, then the Pina ($97 for the 3-cup size, $120 for 6) is probably one of the best you can get. It's a little bigger has a more solid feel than many other moka pots, which can often be on the flimsy side. And I was pleasantly surprised by the coffee I made with the Pina. It was flavorful, with very little bitterness. And it even came out with a little foaminess, which added to its espresso-like qualities.

But while this is one of the better moka pots out there, that doesn't justify the absurdly high price. If you want this level of richness, the Aeropress makes a better cup for a third of the cost. Sure, the Pina is exquisitely handsome, but the inelegant $30 moka pots work just as well. And if you want espresso, you can get a decent counter-top espresso machine for the same price as the Pina.

Bodum Pebo

The Bodum Pebo ($80) looks more like a science experiment than a coffee-maker. And it kind of is. But the problem with science experiments is just that -- they are experiments, and they don't always work.

The Pebo is a "vacpot." These devices brew by creating a vacuum between the lower chamber, which holds the water, and the upper chamber, which holds the grounds. Place the pot on a heat source and as the water heats up, it's forced up through the neck and into the top chamber, where it comes into contact with the grounds. Once all the water has traveled up, remove the assembly from the heat source and the now-brewed and ready-to drink coffee (in theory) drops back down into the lower chamber. Science!

I know a lot of people swear by siphon coffee, but I'm just not one of them. While the brewing process is fun the first couple times, it gets old fast. I threw out several pots before I could even get a drinkable cup, which I'll admit, was quite good once I got it right. But here's why I still don't like it, and why I will let the nice baristas at Blue Bottle make my siphon coffee from now on: it's a pain in the ass.

Half the time, the coffee wouldn't drop down into the lower chamber after I took it off the heat, and I had to repeat the process (which messes up the taste). And even if you brew it perfectly, the device itself is prone to shattering at any moment -- more so if you place it on a surface any colder than room temperature. Have a gas stove? You'll need a diffuser if you don't want to risk melting the handle like I did.

WIRED Geek out on the science while you brew. With a little practice, patience, and luck you can get a really fantastic-tasting cup of coffee.

TIRED Too fragile. If you make a full pot, the coffee needs to be store in a separate container. Cleaning takes forever.

Rating: 6 out of 10

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