When Planet Eclipse manufactured the first Ego it created an overnight revolution in the world of tournament-level Poppet-Valve based markers. By combining reliability, efficiency, performance, ease of maintenance, light weight, balanced design and compact dimensions in a package that was as easy to tech and service as it was to shoot high-speed strings on the field, it became an instant success with players, techs, and dealers alike.

4 years on, and with 3 years of development and testing behind it, Eclipse are ready to do to the Spool-Valve market what they did to the Poppet-Valve market back in late 2004.

The Eclipse Geo has been designed and developed to neutralise all the traditional negative aspects of spool-valve based markers. It offers exceptional air efficiency. It has the fewest possible number of dynamic seals. Yet it still has a Gas Supply Isolation mechanism built into the firing cycle. It is as easy to tech as any other Eclipse marker. It is incredibly reliable. It is compact, balanced and amazingly lightweight. It is everything that Eclipse stands for.

Yet there would be no point in the development of this product if it eschewed the core values of what people like and demand from a spool-valve marker. Smooth operation with a low reciprocating mass (the bolt is the only moving part and weighs less than 18grams). Low operating pressure between 110-135psi. And a quiet sound signature.

What the Eclipse Geo now offers is all of the benefits of a spool-valve marker, with none of the drawbacks.

Add to that the features that have become synonymous with Recent Eclipse markers such as Def-Tek feed technology, Heads-Up LCD module, Opto and Micro trigger operation, Break Beam Sensor System, Dual magnetic and Spring Trigger Return System, light weight and ergonomic design, simple maintenance and bullet-proof reliability, and the result is a marker that draws on all the key Eclipse traits and principles to add an exciting new shooting platform to the range.

Here you will find detailed technical explanations of some of the design innovations that have gone into the New Eclipse Geo. In developing the Eclipse Geo we isolated key weak-points of existing designs of spool valve based markers and sought to find intelligent design solutions to overcome those issues.
Supply Isolation Mechanisms (SIMs) – A means for isolating the gas supply to the firing/dump chamber during the firing cycle.

In order to achieve the best gas efficiency in the widest range of conditions and circumstances it has long been recognised that spool-valve based markers operate best when the supply of gases to the firing/dump chamber is isolated during the time that the bolt is in the firing position. This prevents the free-flow of air from the supply (tank), through the firing/dump chamber, and out of the barrel during the cycle. This free-flow of air is one of the largest contributing factor of poor efficiency in any marker that does not posses a Supply Isolation Mechanism. As such, a Supply Isolation Mechanism is a must-have for any Spool valve based marker that is hoping to produce decent efficiency figures.

However, all current spool-valve based markers that utilise a Supply Isolation Mechanism use an elaborate and often over-complicated series of seals and stems in and around the bolt assembly/drivetrain in order to cut the gas supply to the firing/dump chamber when the bolt is in the firing position. Incorporating this mechanism into the bolt assembly/drive train has one major drawback:

An increase in number of Dynamic Seals in the Bolt Assembly/Drivetrain.

So what are dynamic seals and how do they affect the performance of a marker?

Dynamic Seals – A dynamic seal is characterized by relative motion between a sealing surface and a seal. In a paintball marker a dynamic seal either moves, or has a part moving over it, during the cyclic operation of the gun, whilst being required to produce a gas-tight seal during all, or part of, the firing cycle.

These are o-rings and seals that are subject to wear and tear during each cycle of the marker.

Most current spool-valve markers have a high number of dynamic seals. This is particularly true in ones that have some form of Supply Isolation Mechanism built into the bolt assembly/drivetrain.

By comparison the New Eclipse Geo has only 3 Dynamic Seals in the entire bolt assembly.

So what negative effects does a large number of Dynamic Seals create?

Here are some:

Friction - More dynamic seals means more friction in the bolt assembly/drivetrain.Failure – More seals in the system mean more potential areas for leaks and failures.Stiction – More dynamic seals means increased stiction in the system which can cause FSDO (First Shot Drop Off) and poor performance.Maintenance – More regular and extensive maintenance. More seals to keep lubricated. More parts to remove, clean, lubricate and re-assemble during regular maintenance.

The fewer dynamic seals in the bolt system, the less of an issue any of the above become.

Eclipse ISCIS (Integrated Solenoid Controlled Isolation System) Valve

So how have Eclipse got around this problem? Well, the New Eclipse Geo solves this problem in a new and unique way. To start with, the Supply Isolation mechanism (SIMs) has been completely removed from the bolt assembly/drivetrain, drastically reducing the number of internal components and seals in the bolt assembly. Then, by working in close partnership with one of the USAs largest family-owned pneumatic companies, Eclipse have developed the ISCIS (Integrated Solenoid Controlled Isolation System) custom-built solenoid valve that not only functions to cycle the bolt mechanism like any other electro-pneumatic marker, but also to electronically control the distribution of air to fill and isolate the firing/dump chamber during every cycle. By utilizing the same technology that is used in industrial solenoid valves designed to operate over tens-of-millions-of-cycles without maintenance, the Eclipse Geo solenoid valve not only provides the function for incredibly high bolt cycle speeds, but also the function for a flawlessly simple Supply Isolation Mechanism. And because the same ISCIS valve that controls the bolt actuation also controls the flow of gases to the firing/dump chamber, it means the firing, isolation and filling of the cycle will always be perfectly synchronous. This is an incredibly simple solenoid valve assembly that has been configured to supply gases at the required pressures and required flows to operate in this unique layout. It is the simplicity of the concept and the execution that ensure the long-term performance and reliability of the design.

With the SIMs now removed from the bolt assembly/drivetrain, and the ISCIS valve controlling the flow distribution into the valve chamber, it leaves the internals of the body as simple and uncluttered as possible.

Bolt Assembly – When designing something to be as efficient, reliable, and user-friendly as possible it is often key to make things as simple as possible. With the removal of the SIMs mechanism from the bolt assembly it allows the bolt mechanism to be simplified to its most basic components. That simplification then allows efforts to concentrated on making those few parts out of the very highest quality materials, machined and finished to the very highest quality.
There are 3 basic components to the Geo Bolt assembly:

The Can – This sits inside the Geo body and has only one real purpose, and that is to retain the front dynamic seal. This is the o-ring that seals around the front portion of the bolt. It can be removed without tools in order to replace the seal, and the design means that perfect concentric alignment of the other internal parts is always guaranteed.

The Prop Shaft – This is the part that screws into the back of the body with or without the use of tools. It self-centres itself into the body and the Can to ensure perfect alignment with the other internal components, and carries the main firing/dump chamber seal. It also contains the VVC, Variable Volume Chamber (see below)

The SC Bolt – The only dynamic part of the assembly. The bolt is manufactured from 7000-Series aluminium and industrial hard anodized. Why? Because the bolt has 2 intrinsically important sealing surfaces. One external diameter at the front of the bolt that seals against the dynamic seal in the Can, and one internal bore at the rear of the bolt that seals against the main seal on the Poppet. Given that this component is the only reciprocating part of the assembly, and that it is exposed to the areas that can be easily contaminated with foreign debris (dirt, sand, grit, etc) it is sensible to make it as durable, yet as light as possible.

Quick and Simple Maintenance - Because of the simplicity of this system it means that the Geos bolt removal can be accomplished in under 6 seconds, and that regular cleaning and maintenance can be completed in under a minute. Further more, the complete bolt and firing assembly can be removed, cleaned, all o-rings, bumpers and seals replace, lubricated and then re-assembled in less than two and a half minutes. Try that on a marker that has its SIMS integrated into the bolt assembly!

Variable Volume Chamber (VVC) – Large Volume with Lower Pressure or Smaller volume with Higher Pressure? That is the normal question with this type of marker. Most manufacturers fix the internal volume of their firing chamber leaving the user with only the option of adjusting the pressure used to fill the firing chamber as a means of adjusting velocity.

On the Eclipse Geo an additional adjustment parameter has been added for the users benefit. The VVC or Variable Volume Chamber mechanism allows the user, with a turn of a hex key, to finely adjust the volume of the Geos firing chamber. As such, small adjustments to the operating pressure and firing chamber volumes can be made in order to determine the final velocity of the paintball being fired.

Since the Launch of the Ego in late 2004 Eclipse have developed and integrated a range of features into their markers that have helped set them apart from the rest of the competition. All of the features listed below can now not-only be found in the Eclipse Ego range, but in the Eclipse Geo range as well.

Deftek Feed – The Deftek Offset Feed is a subtle yet brutally effective solution to an age-old problem. LBB, or Last Ball Bounce, is a phenomenon that plagues every vertical feed marker. Balls that are free-falling down the feed tube from the loader fall into the breech, trigger the Ball Detection system, and initiate the firing cycle. The ball then hits the bottom of the breech, bounces un-hindered off the bottom of the breech and back up the feed tube. In the time that the markers pneumatic system has taken to react to the firing signal and started to move the bolt, the ball is now half way back out of the breech. The bolt cycles forward and cuts or crushes the ball as it is half in and half out of the breech.

The Deftek feed combats this problem by stepping the incoming vertical feed tube a couple of millimetres to the side of the breech. Now as the free-falling ball enters the breech, it first contacts an angled portion of the breech that deflects the ball across the breech to the far wall. This action both absorbs energy from the falling ball, and deflects it in a direction that prevents it from bouncing back up the feed port. The ball falls and nestles into the breech, ready to be fired.

By utilizing the Deftek system it means that the firing cycle can be run with no delay in the electronics between a ball being detected by the breech sensor and the solenoid being actuated to fire the marker. There is no need for the system to wait for the ball to “settle” in the breech, and no need to wait in case the ball bounces in the breech. This makes cycle times as short, and as responsive as possible.

The SC (Spool-Cure) Bolt – The original Ego Cure bolt was developed to combat a very unique phenomena. Contrary to popular belief, it was not developed to prevent Ball Chopping (where a ball that is loading/falling into the breech is trapped between the bolt face and the feed/breech wall) but rather to reduce, and ultimately eliminate, breakages caused by the bolt “Clipping” the 2nd ball in the feed stack.

“2nd Ball Clipping” is primarily caused by part of the 2nd ball in the feed stack being forced down into the breech area by a force fed loader. As the bolt comes forward to fire the 1st ball in the stack it “clips” the bottom of the 2nd ball. This can lead to the 2nd ball becoming cracked or weakened, or even creating a pin-prick hole in the bottom of the ball. Then this damaged ball falls into the breech, then becoming the 1st ball. When this gets fired during the next shot, it normally explodes in the barrel, very close to the breech area.
What the Cure Bolt does is provide a ramped surface at the front of the bolt that pushes the 2nd ball more gently back up the feed tube and out of the way of the bolt. This helps to minimize the impact on the 2nd ball and hopefully prevent any damage to the ball that can lead to premature failure during firing.

On the Geo the overall bolt stroke has been increased to allow a ramped leading edge to the bolt, whilst still allowing a sealing element at the head of the bolt to reduce unwanted blow-back of air into the breech area and hence improve overall gas efficiency. The result is the SC (Spool-Cure) Bolt for the Geo.

S3 In-Line Regulator
The new S3 regulator has had a complete overhaul for the 2009 Model Line. The S3 Regulator allows more than double the air-flow of any previous Eclipse In-Line regulator. Flow has been increased through all major components from the adjuster through to the new piston. This increased flow rate helps the regulator provide even quicker recharge times than previous Eclipse regulators, but without jeopardising the reliability and simplicity of the design and maintenance. The S3 maintains the coil spring mechanism, and physically retained piston seal first seen on the SL range, but also incorporated a completely new feature:

For the first time in a regulator of this style, the design incorporates a self purging mechanism that prevents the marker storing a shot after the tank has been removed. A simple pressure-controlled poppet that is factory-installed into every S3 piston prevents up-stream air being retained in the marker after the tank has been removed.

Both the Geo and the Ego9 use unique Coil Springs in order for them to operate at the highest possible performance level at their required output pressure ranges without the possibility of damaging the markers specific Solenoid Valves.
LCD Display – One of the features most synonymous with Eclipse products has been the inclusion of the Heads-Up back-lit LCD display mounted down the back of the frame. This display gives the user instant visual access to the markers modes, operational condition and settings, and makes adjustment and monitoring of marker function on the fly a very simple task.

The back-lit transflective technology mean that the LCD display utilized in all Eclipse Products can be viewed both in the very brightest sunlit conditions, and pitch black conditions. Sunlight does not “wash out” the display, and does not make it illegible.

This ability to view the display in wide range of conditions, with the marker in a natural firing position, makes the built-in game timer, shot counter, ROF indicator and BBSS monitor useful tools that can really be used in-game without affecting your performance.

Dual Selectable Trigger Switching – There are two commonly available trigger switching mechanisms on markers today. Micro-switch – where the trigger acts against a lever-arm micro-switch to actuate the firing cycle. And Opto-switch – where the trigger is used to break an infrared beam to produce a contact-free operation.

Both systems have their pluses and minuses and it is often a purely personal preference as to which players prefer. Traditionally a marker comes fitted with either one switch type or the other, and a player is reliant on having to purchase an aftermarket board at a considerable cost in order to change from one type to the other.

However Eclipse believe that in a premium product the player should have the option to choose without the need for any further expenditure. Hence you will find both Opto and Micro switch options available on this board. The trigger and the software can be configured to operate off either of the switches. A completely contact-les set-up with no micro-switch actuation, or a crisply set-up “mouse-click” operation with micro selected. The choice is there. As standard.
Dual Trigger Return Mechanism – Like the trigger switching option, most modern markers offer either a magnetic return action or a spring return action. Again, here Eclipse excel by providing both systems as standard. Not only are there 3 separate external adjustments for trigger position and actuation point, but there are also separate Magnetic and Spring trigger return mechanisms. Either mechanism can be employed independently of the other to create either fully magnetic, or fully spring return. Or both mechanisms can be combined in an infinitely adjustable and variable system to produce a completely unique feel.

Whichever you choose, you can be assured that the trigger-action will be as smooth and as slop-free as is possible in a modern paintball marker. With the trigger clamped to a ground and hardened steel pivot pin that is suspended between widely spaced dual sealed instrument ball races there is no platform that could provide a more robust and durable base for a high-performance triggering mechanism.
Integrated Audible Sound Device – New for 2009 to the Eclipse Family is an integrated beeper on all circuit boards. But rather than just use the beeper for audible alarms on the Game Timer, the new beeper can also be configured to give audible confirmation of power up, power down and also button pushes.

I was lucky enough to have recently been invited to visit Eclipse in Manchester (for once, being in the UK has not been a bad thing! ), and this time, I was allowed behind the scenes.....

Before I go any further, I would like to give my thanks to all at Planet for making me feel welcome, and in particular to Nicky for arranging my visit, and to Matt (jahlad) and Robert (probert) for talking me through the production and technical aspects of Planet products in general and the Geo in particular.

I'd love to show you some photos, but as it happens, most of what I saw has been published before, so there wasn't much point. The one new thing I did see, I wasn't allowed to take a photo of anyway.....

I was given a full tech rundown on the new Geo, and have been lent one to tinker with, and as such, the new Geo is the subject of this thread. I'll be doing some comparison of it's features with the Ego markers, and stripping the marker.

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First things first, a brief explanation of the function of the Geo is in order. Apologies if some of this covers old ground, but this thread was written for posting on PBReview, where there is much less information about the Geo and Ego9, so some of this is already well known here.

It is an unbalanced spool valve marker, with a bolt kit that resembles the Deadly Wind Hollow Point bolt for the Ion. There are differences of course, but it is a hard comparison not to make.

The marker as a whole though, is a very different prospect to an Ion, being that it is all metal, made to a high level of quality, and tested through out it's creation to ensure that Planet's standards are met. You also have the roller bearing trigger with multiple adjustment points, a custom solenoid, DefTek feed neck, LCD board, optical or microswitch trigger activation, etc. - all the features that you have come to expect on the newer Egos, you will find on the GEO. There are no QEVs, but then, there aren't on the Ego9 either, and there won't be - the new '09 series design and custom solenoids make QEVs unnecessary.

There is no LPR on the Geo, with air being supplied at the same pressure to the front of the bolt (to hold the bolt open), and to the back (to fill the firing chamber to shoot the ball) - 130psi. The bolt is held open, despite the same pressure, due to the surface area of the front of the bolt being larger.

When the trigger is pulled, and the solenoid activated, the solenoid first shuts off the air supply in to the solenoid - this means that the GEO shoots from a fixed volume of gas; at the same time, the solenoid vents off the gas in front of the bolt. Air in the firing chamber is prevented from venting out through the solenoid by a back check valve built in to the solenoid.

With the air in front of the bolt having been vented, and the air in the firing chamber trapped by the back check, you now have nothing to stop the 130psi of pressure in the firing chamber pushing the bolt forward. As the bolt moves forwards, the air in the firing chamber is released to shoot the ball.

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I would have liked to start by showing you the box, then the case, the marker nestled in the case, but, erm, I can't..... Nicky thrust the marker in my right hand, while Matt the production manager shoved a tube of grease, barrel sock, spares kit and tool kit in my other hand! No box or case. However, the box would look like this: -

The above pictures were taken by PBKIDD24.

There are cases with a selection of different colour anodised bands available, which are supplied at random.

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OK, back to the Geo in front of me.

In my best Nick Truter video voice "Here are the tools for the job": -

All included with the marker.

I guess that the first thing that deserves a mention is the new Shaft 3 barrel. It is a two-piece barrel, and reverse threaded, like the Shaft 2 before it, and the 2-piece Shaft before that. It has the same threading and dimensions as the Shaft 2, and so parts are interchangeable. It has been stated that optional bore backs will be available separately, though there is no release date on these as yet.

Stock bore size is 0.693, and the alignment from front to back is very good (considerably better than my SL kit in fact ), so there should be no chance of your ball clipping the end of the barrel front, or rolling along the barrel front and picking up a spin.

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In order to start stripping the marker, we can first remove the barrel, and then the regulator.

This is as good a time as any to service the regulator.

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The regulator is of the "gas-thru-piston" design, as has been utilised on all the Ego markers, but has some new features for the 2009 season.

The bottom cap can be eaily unscrewed by hand, but like all the later Ego regulators, hex key holes are provided in case the end cap is screwed on tightly. The large allen keys required to disassemble an overtightened reg are not included, but shouldn't really be required anyway. The allen keys for all other parts of the Geo are included.

Having removed the end cap, we can then proceed to remove the velocity adjuster screw. This can only be removed through the top of the end cap, by screwing the adjuster in all the way with an allen key, and then pushing it out.

Note the markings on the bottom of the reg to show which way to turn the allen key to adjust output pressure.

You can now pull the piston out of the bottom of the reg body, which will in turn bring out the reg spring with it.

The spring is made to give the reg an output pressure of 160psi maximum (out of the box operating pressure is 130psi or so), and so the reg isn't suitable for use with just any marker, and the spring is different to that found in other coil spring Ego regulators - it is Geo specific. Unlike earlier Ego coil springs, the Geo spring can go in to the reg either way up, it makes no difference.

The reg piston incorporates the first new reg feature (unless you include the Geo specific spring as a feature).

The brass tip of the piston incorporates a relief valve. This stops the reg acting as a one-way valve and trapping air in the marker. De-gas the ASA, and you will also de-gas the reg.

The relief valve is *not* user servicable, and the brass tip should not be removed from the piston, but I can tell you that behind the cap, there is a spring inside, and above the spring, there is a small plunger that blocks a hole drilled through the piston. You can just make out that hole here: -

This is matched with a hole in the reg seat seal: -

When air enters the reg at 450 or 800psi, or whatever your air system reg pressure may be set at, it enters the hole in the reg seat seal, and pushes the plunger against the hole, stopping air entering or leaving the reg through the bottom of the piston. The air then enters the holes in the side of the piston neck and is regulated as normal. So far, so ordinary gas-thru-piston regulator.

However, things are different when you de-gas your marker. The 450/800/what-have-you psi is released, so there is nothing other than a light spring holding the plunger closed. The 130psi in the marker is then free to push open the plunger, and so it can vent out of the marker, through the relief valve, and so can vent out of the regulator. So now, when you degas your ASA, you are fully degassing the marker - it won't be able to fire a shot after degassing.

This picture shows the newer version of the Geo reg piston, as supplied with the G-R2 upgrade kit, and supplied as standard with newer Geos. Some people were having problems with the venting air lifting the reg seat seal, which could lead to inconsistency, or - worst case scenario - supercharging of the reg. A spigot is now machined in to the brass tip of the reg that extends through the hole in the centre of the reg seat seal, helping it to stay in place. This gives the seal the "brass lined" look that the picture shows.

If you wanted to remove the reg collar, you would first need to remove the elbow. Removing the elbow would reveal the second new feature. It is a small golf tee shaped piece of plastic that sits inside the elbow. There is a small hole drilled through this piece.

Images provided by Nicky T.: -

This allows air to flow freely in to the reg as air will simply push the "tee" forwards and away from the elbow. When the reg vents, and air tries to rush back out through the elbow, the tee will block the elbow, and air has to slowly vent through the hole down the middle of the tee.

This is important, as if the air in the front of the bolt were to vent quicker than the air in the firing chamber (as it would, quite simply down to the difference in volume), once the air in front of the bolt was gone, the air remaining in the firing chamber could push the bolt forward, and effectively fire the marker. By releasing the air gradually, you prevent a sudden change of pressure on the two sides of the bolt, and the marker won't fire when the air is vented.

Tech Tip #1 - if you are going to change the elbow, make sure to install the tee in the new elbow before re-assembly.

Tech Tip #2 - very similar. If you come across a Geo that fires when it is degassed, make sure that the tee is present in the elbow.

Getting back to the reg itself, you can now clean out the empty reg body, and wipe the old grease off of the piston and reg adjuster o-rings. Check the o-rings for wear, and replace if necessary. Then re-grease them.

The piston neck o-ring is actually inlet in to the top of the reg end cap, rather than being on the piston neck. This should also be cleaned, checked and re-greased: -

Tech Tip #3 - if your HPR pressure is creeping up, check the reg seat seal on the end of the piston neck, and the reg seat (the port on top of the pressure adjuster), for dirt or damage: -
In order for the regulator to stop at a fixed pressure, there has to be no leaking between the reg seat and seal - if pressure can leak passed this seal, then your reg pressure will start to increase. This means that the seat and seal must be clean, and there can'd be any dents or scratches to break the seal.

Grease the o-rings with Eclipse grease, or Sl33k if you have none of the Eclipse grease. The reg can then be reassembled in reverse order - piston in to the body, followed by the spring; drop the reg adjuster in to the end cap, push it down, and screw it in; screw the end cap on to the reg body: -

Finally, having screwed the adjuster all the way down, screw it back in four turns - this should give you approximately 130psi output.

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Not strictly necessary, but if you want, you can remove the ASA.

There are two screws that push against the bottom of the frame to press the ASA's T-rail in to the frame's T-slot.

Loosening the two screws allows the ASA to slide out from the frame.

There are still standard ASA mounting holes if you don't want to use the T-slot rail.

For those who haven't seen the T-Slot rails before, a T-shaped slot is cut in to the bottom of the frame, and a matching rail is incorporated in to the ASA: -

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As with the Ego markers, you have the DefTek (deflection technology) feed neck, to prevent paint trying to bounce back up the feed neck - it should assist feeding, and should help to prevent chopping. The neck is actually offset slightly to one side. It's hardly noticeable unless you look for it.

While we are dealing with DefTek, it is worth mentioning the eyes. You have the same break beam eye harness as found on the Ego markers. As I was reminded by Robert - who gave me my quick, unofficial tech class - the red coloured eye should go on the right; 3Rs - red, receiver, right. This is as a consequence of the DefTek feed neck. The eyes can be confused by external light sources, so by placing the receiver element on the opposite side to the feed neck offset, you shelter it as much as possible from light coming through the feed neck.

Red on the right.

Black on the left.

The left hand eye passes through a tunnel under the breech: -

The eyes should obviously be cleaned if dirty, and while you have the eye covers off, you can check the condition of your ball detents. The Geo uses the same detents as all Egos from '06 onwards.

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Brief break as I shoo away my cat: -

It's not even Caturday!

Giant cat or small marker?

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OK, on to the marker body.

Like the Ego7 and newer models, the front reg mount is integrated in to the body, rather than being removable. As stated at the beginning, there is no LPR, so no LPR body, no additional o-rings to worry about, no hosing. There is something at the front of the marker that looks suspiciously like an Ego's Torpedo fitting, but it is just a plug to block an air passage.

The air passage feeds vertically from the FRM, and then horizontally to the solenoid; the horizontal airway is drilled from the front of the marker - hence the plug.

Tech Tip #4 - if air is leaking from the plug, remove it, clean and grease the o-ring and replace the plug. If the plug still leaks, replace the o-ring. Bar a leak from the plug itself, there is absolutely no reason to remove the plug.

All air goes through the solenoid - both the air to fill the firing chamber and the air to push the bolt back. This makes for a very simple marker, though quite a complicated solenoid.

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For the next step, we need to remove the frame from the marker body. This first requires that we remove the grips to uncover the board - we need to unplug the solenoid and eye wires from the board.

This involves removing a total of six screws, three on either side of the frame. At a pinch, you could just remove the three screws on the right side of the grip, but I would rather have the grip out of the way entirely: -

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While we have the board exposed, it is worth quickly talking about the board.

Like the Egos, right from the '05 onwards, the Geo board features an LCD display, has three external control buttons, and a set up button on the board, which can only be accessed by removing the grips - it keeps the board tournament legal.

Towards the end of 2006, the Ego Maniac board was released, as a test bed for features that would be used on the Ego7. These included programmable ramping, and an increased rate of fire cap at 25bps, an increased eye off rate of fire of 25bps, or eyes on rate of fire could be uncapped entirely.

When the Ego7 was released, it had the programmable ramping feature, though the eye off rate of fire was dropped back to 15bps, the capped rate of fire was increased to 30bps, and uncapped ramping remained. The board also features both optical and microswitch trigger activation - pre '07 Ego boards were optical only. Later versions of the Ego7 board also added connection points for an expansion board; this included a sound module and a dedicated auxiliary out port to power external devices such as RF chips.

The Ego8 board reversed the colouring of the LCD display (black on a white background) for clarity, and added an auxiliary out port on the board itself. It had the connectors for the expansion board, which was still required if you wanted the sound module. It also had handy indicators to show you if trigger pulls were being registered, with different icons to show if it was the microswitch or optical sensor that was registering the trigger pull.

Ego7 and Ego8 boards can also be set to allow all the set-up menu options to be accessed from the external buttons, but this obviously isn't tournament legal. This feature is carried over the the Ego9 and Geo boards.

With the Geo (and Ego9) boards, things have moved on a little further. The Geo has all the features of the Ego7 and Ego8 board, complete with the auxiliary out port, reversed LCD and trigger monitors. It also now has a built in sound module, so there are no longer any connectors for the expansion board.

One change that is Geo specific, is that the max rate of fire cap is now 22bps. With the higher air volume requirement of a spool valve, there was a concern that people could run in to shoot down, so this rate of fire was chosen in order to prevent that ever becoming an issue. The marker can actually cycle much faster than that, faster even than an Ego9 apparently, but what is the point if your velocity isn't stable. However, for those that must try, the board can still be uncapped.

Tests have been carried out with higher flowing regulators, but it was found that some of these spiked when first gassed up, and there was a risk of damaging your solenoid, so Eclipse stuck with the reg design they had, and capped the board lower to prevent shoot down.

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Another couple of things to mention while we are in the vicinity of the frame is the trigger and trigger guard.

The trigger guard is something of a sticking point visually, with people either loving or hating it. It gives a lot of space inside the guard in front of your fingers for walking, and sweeps down at an angle, giving both some space in the guard for three fingers, but also ample space below the guard for the unused fingers of those who only want one or two fingers on the trigger. The top of the guard, at the front, is also cut away in a curve to give space for your thumb if you like to wrap your leading hand around your regulator.

The trigger is installed in a similar fashion to the Ego7 and Ego8 triggers, but just as the bearing carriers in the Ego7 and Ego8 are different to each other, so the Geo and Ego9 bearing carriers are different (and different to each other I hasten to add).

The bearing carrier now features an adjustable spring return. The spring is mounted above the rear of the trigger, with the spring pushing down on the trigger. The spring sits on top of a screw which can be adjusted up and down to change the spring tension. The screw is reached through the small hole in the bearing carrier: -

Removing the two screws at the rear of the bearing carrier allows the carrier and trigger to be lifted out of the frame - be careful to ensure that the trigger spur clears the optiswitch sensor before you lift the trigger out.

The front face of the trigger has five screws: -

The screw in the middle is the pivot pin lock screw - the new bearing carrier blocks access to the pivot pin, so this screw is no longer accessed from inside the frame.

There are two screws on the top of the trigger; as is normal for the Ego markers, the screw closest to the pivot pin is the front stop screw, and the one furthest from it adjusts the magnetic return force.

There are two further screws through the face of the trigger, with the one closest to the pivot pin being the microswitch activation adjustment screw, and the one furthest away being the rear trigger stop. Optical trigger activation is still carried out by a fixed spur on the back of the trigger.

*****

Back to the frame - disconnect the wires from the board.

Loosen the rear frame screw, which is inside the frame with the board.

You can then remove the front frame screw.

This allows the frame to then slide back to clear the rear frame screw, which stays attached to the body.

The body can then be lifted off of the frame, being careful that the wires don't catch on anything.

With the frame removed, you are left with the body, with the bolt kit inside, and the solenoid attached underneath.

You can see that the rear frame screw is still attached to the body.

*****

We can now remove the bolt kit.

This can be easily be done by unscrewing the "Prop Shaft" by hand. It doesn't need to be more than hand tight, but the Prop may come loose under the vibration of firing, so keep an eye on it.

Alternatively, the back of the Prop does have a hex hole for an allen key, so you can tighten it with that if you like. That'll stop it shooting loose, but also mean that you will need the allen key again to remove it. Your choice.

The screw in the middle is the VVC (variable volume chamber) adjuster,which I will explain later.

You can then reach into the back of the marker and pull out the bolt - the firing can will come out with it. The Geo I have now, these parts slide out easily - the one I learnt on at Planet, I had to use a fluffy swab to push them out through the front of the marker. As long as you don't use anything that is going to scratch up the inside of the marker, it's all good.

The bolt can then be pushed out of the firing can from the front - no need to remove the o-ring on the front of the bolt.

You now have a basically empty tube: -

*****

To reassemble, you should first clean the old grease off the bolt kit components, inside and out.

New grease should be applied to the two o-rings on the front of the can, the o-ring on the inside of the can, and the front internal cylinder of the can: -

Tech Tip #5 - if air is leaking down your barrel, the internal can o-ring, or front external can o-ring may be leaking. Clean and grease them, or replace if necessary.

Tech Tip #6 - if your marker won't cycle correctly, and everything else appears to be functioning normally, air in the firing chamber may be leaking passed the rear external can o-ring and venting out of the solenoid - clean and re-grease, or replace if necessary.

The bolt should be greased from behind the front o-ring (this does not require greasing) up to and including the back o-ring. The back of the bolt does not require grease. The large, rear internal bore of the bolt should also be lightly greased.

Finally, take the prop shaft, and grease the large o-ring and threads at the rear. Then grease the Prop Shaft's middle o-ring.

Tech Tip #8 - the large o-ring on the prop shaft seals the rear of the marker. If you have a leak around the back of the Prop Shaft, this o-ring is at fault.

Tech Tip #9 - an air leak down the barrel may be down to the Prop Shaft's middle o-ring leaking.

Push the bolt in to the can: -

Place the Prop Shaft in to the back: -

The whole bolt kit can then be gently pushed in to the back of the Geo body, and the Prop Shaft screwed in.

Tech Tip #10 - if your marker isn't feeding cleanly, leading to chops, and there is no other reason for the occurrence, your Prop Shaft may need to be serviced by an Eclipse tech.

*****

Just a brief look at the variable volume chamber. This is adjusted by a screw at the rear of the Prop Shaft: -

The Prop Shaft is hollow, and stores additional air, over and above what is in the firing chamber. Adjusting the screw moves a piston up or down the hollow bore of the Prop Shaft, adjusting the volume that is available for air to be stored in. This gives you a small degree of adjustment over the Geo's operating pressure.

Tech Tip #11 - if you have a leak around the VVC adjustment screw, and the screw is backed all the way out, try screwing it in a 1/4 turn. If this does not resolve the problem, your Prop Shaft should be taken to an Eclipse tech to be fixed.

If you swap reg collars, or change macroline elbows, ensure to re-install the Pressure Control Valve! - pictures below.

For those of short attention span, thank you for your patience......

For the rest of you, an explanation: -

Apologies to those who have already read this information elsewhere, but this subject matter relates to safe use of the Geo, and as such is obviously a cause for concern, and Planet would like to make sure that as many people as possible are aware of it.

Parts swapping is becoming a popular hobby amongst Geo owners, in order to create new colour combinations - no big issue there.

However, removing the swivel collar from the regulator - in order to swap collars - requires removal of your macroline elbow.

The macroline elbow contains a small but important safety feature in the form of a Purge Control Valve - a small plastic "Golf-Tee" shaped parts with a small hole drilled through it.

This parts sits in the end of your elbow like so: -

In normal use, the PCV will be pushed out of the elbow by the air entering the reg, and so it has no effect on air flow. When you purge the air from your marker, and the air tries to rush back out of the reg and through the elbow, the PCV will be pushed back in to the elbow, forcing the venting air to go through the small hole through the centre of the valve. As such, the air is forced to vent from the reg slowly.

This is important, as if the air in the front chamber of the bolt kit vents out before the air in the firing chamber - as it will, due to there being more air to vent from the firing chamber - the bolt will be pushed forwards, the remaining air in the firing chamber will be released, and the marker will fire. By slowing the release of the air, the PCV prevents the marker firing when you de-gas it. Of course, you should have a barrel sock on your barrel at this point, but better safe than sorry.

The upshot of this, and the whole point of this thread is as follows: -

If you are going to swap reg collars, be careful when removing the elbow, to prevent damaging the PCV. After swapping the collars, ensure that you re-install the PCV in to the elbow before screwing it back on.

Same goes if you need to change the elbow - install the PCV in your new elbow before screwing it back on.

***Failure to install the PCV in your HPR elbow can lead to the Geo firing when you de-gas it!***

There are two screws under the solenoid that need to be removed in order to detach the solenoid from the marker body: -

Here is what the bottom of the marker looks like with the solenoid removed: -

Here is the solenoid from the side, and from the top: -

First thing we can do is remove the gasket from the top of the solenoid: -

When re-assebling, the gasket should be cleaned and greased.

There is a filter at the front, catching any debris before it enters the solenoid: -

This can be removed for cleaning.

The solenoid pilot assembly is found on the back right of the solenoid housing, and can be unscrewed from it.

This is the part of the solenoid that is energized when the trigger is pulled, shuttling a spool to direct air around the solenoid, which in turn allows the bolt to cycle forwards. This does not normally need to be removed unless you are replacing it.

However, this is only the first of two spools inside the Geo solenoid. The second is a sprung, pressure controlled spool, found at the front left of the solenoid (on the right in this picture, as I have turned the solenoid around): -

This is accessed by removing the screw at the front of the solenoid: -

This spool should be cleaned and re-greased, and the chamber that the spool fits in should also be cleaned, with a Q-tip.

When air pressure builds in the solenoid after a cycle has been completed, the second spool is pushed backwards by the air pressure against it's spring. When the pilot is energized, and the marker fires, air pressure in the solenoid is vented. The drop in pressure then allows the spring in the second spool to push it out again. In essence, though only one is attached to the solenoid pilot, it is controlling two spools.

The next item to look at is on the back left of the solenoid - the back check valve: -

Unscrewing the bolt reveals a spring loaded ball: -

The purpose of the back check valve is as follows: -

When air is entering the solenoid, it can push passed the ball, depressing the spring. This allows air to flow through the solenoid, up in to the marker, where it will fill the firing chamber of the bolt kit. At the same time, air is filling the front of the bolt kit, which holds the bolt to the rear.

When the marker is fired, the solenoid switches, and air starts to vent from the front of the bolt kit, out through the solenoid.

The air in the firing chamber also wants to exit, and if the back check valve were not present, it would also vent out of the solenoid. However, air from the firing chamber trying to rush back down in to the solenoid pushes the back check valve closed, so it cannot vent out of the solenoid. Instead, it has to push the bolt forwards - which it can now do with the pressure in front of the bolt having been removed - which causes the marker to fire.

Tech Tip #12 - If after servicing the solenoid, your marker will not fire correctly, make sure that the back check valve has been assembled correctly.

Here are all the parts laid out in relation to their positions within the solenoid: -

Tech Tip #13 - when screwing the solenoid back in place, the screws should be tightened down well - not excessively, but pretty tight, otherwise the gasket can be pushed out from between the body of the marker and the solenoid.

I've read a few posts from fellow Geo-shooters who are getting poor efficiency out of their markers so thought that it was high time to create an idiots guide on how to set up your Geo marker more efficiently, so here goes

Now before we get into how to correctly set up your Geo, there are a couple of criteria that you should always adhere to in order to give yourself a fighting chance of getting decent efficiency figures:

- Correct Lubrication. Basically if your Geo is not correctly lubed you won't get as many shots out of it as you could have had. Don't be a dummy - lube it correctly and you're already on your way to better efficiency!

- Paint 2 Barrel match. Although the Geo is an open-bolt marker; correctly sizing the paint that you are shooting to match the barrel that you are using will give you an advantage when it comes to efficiency.

- Climate. Playing in a warmer climate will yield better results than playing in a colder climate (efficiency wise). You're also more likely to get a tan and see scantily clad women so i don't really see a downside to living/playing in a warmer part of the world, especially efficiency wise.

- Type of paint. Some paints chrono higher than others. This could be linked to size, materials used, density, sphericalness (if that's even a word) or any other mystical factors but if you (or your team) is confined to shooting a specific brand it might be worth sampling the paints they have on offer and finding one that suits you best.

- VVC Screw. This Changes the volume of air in the Valve Chamber. Smaller volume = better efficiency so wind this bad boy all the way in to make your marker most efficient.

Still with me so far? Once you've checked out all of the above it's now time to head down to the Chrono with your Geo, at least a couple of pods of paint, your hex keys, loader and a tank full of air (and your goggles of course!) so that you can follow the proceed below to set up your Geo

1. Chrono the marker as it is until you reach the desired velocity; lets assume you want to shoot at approximately 290fps.
2. Remove the rubber grip screws on the right hand side of the Geo and push the set-up pushbutton on your circuit board to enter the set-up menu.
3. Scroll through the menu and "Unlock" the circuit board.
4. Close up the grips again so that you don't loose the three screws that you're about to drop!
5. As the marker is now unlocked go into the DWELL parameter and lower the dwell by 1.0ms from 12.5ms (the factory setting) to 11.5ms.
6. Chronograph the marker and check that the velocity has remained approximately the same.
7. Again go into the DWELL parameter and lower the dwell by 1.0ms.
8. Chronograph the marker again to check that the velocity has remained approximately the same.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until the velocity starts to drop.
10. When you reach this stage your DWELL is set too low to achieve the velocity you require. You must now raise your DWELL by 0.5ms from its current setting.
11. Chronograph the marker again to check that the velocity has returned to the desired value. If it has not then increase your DWELL again in 0.5ms increments until it does.
12. When you are content with the velocity readings, exit the DWELL parameter and "lock" the marker so that you are tournament legal.
13. You have now sweetspotted your Geo's DWELL to maximise its efficiency at that particular Inline Reg setting.

Mail-in or Register on-line for the "New G-R2 Enhancement Kit" once you have purchased your "Eclipse Geo Marker"

Since the release of the Geo we have been making small subtle changes to various components to enhance the performance and reliability of the marker. Having reached a stage where all of the modifications have been thoroughly tested and approved by our sponsored teams and beta testers, amongst others, we are now ready to release information of the G-R2 Enhancement Kit.

So why would I need one?
The Geo has been performing really well out in the field. But with feedback from our extensive range of service centers and sponsored teams from around the world as well as feedback from fellow Geo users we have been very keen to look at, and improve on, any issues. Based on that feedback, the G-R2 kit has been assembled to address these issues in one tidy enhancement kit.

Lead Designer: Jack Wood said “At Planet Eclipse we want our products to be the best that they can be. We are constantly taking feedback from a multitude of sources and with that information we are constantly looking for ways to improve every aspect of our products. When we find a way of making something better, we feel compelled to make the change. We could wait until the next generation of markers, but that would be selling you, the customer, short. That’s something we just don’t feel comfortable doing. Support of our existing customers, making sure their equipment is to the highest possible standard, is our number one concern. If you want the very best performance you can get from your Geo then the G-R2 kit is for you.”

So what do these parts do?
The new G-R2 Prop Shaft Assembly includes a new design of VVC screw to prevent the VVC backing out and leaking. A larger diameter O-ring and revised groove dimensions of the rear O-ring to prevent the Prop Shaft Assembly backing out of the Geo body during play. A new shortened “tip” allows the ball to sit further into the face of the bolt to alleviate ball breakages allowing you to shoot even more fragile paint. Modifications to the design of the VVC Screw Fore-Stop to further strengthen the design. The G-R2 Prop Shaft Assembly is easily distinguishable by the two grooves milled into the base of the tip:

The G-R2 Inline Piston sees a central barbed stem added to the tip of the piston that not only has superior seal retention properties but also keeps the seal flatter than ever before minimizing the chance of the Inline Regulator over pressurizing. This helps give better shot-to-shot consistency as well as better reliability.

The patched screws simply give eye covers, rubber grips and the rear frame screws a much tighter, secure fit to prevent any loosening during play. This helps take day-to-day maintenance down to an absolute minimum.

So how do you tell if your Geo already has a G-R2 Enhancement Kit fitted?
- If you purchased a Geo in 2008 then it will NOT have a G-R2 Kit Fitted.
- If you purchased a Geo in 2009 then you will need to look at your Geo Prop Shaft to see if it has the double groove marking:
If there are no markings then your Geo does NOT have a G-R2 Kit fitted.
- If you have a Geo that has the G-R2 Prop Shaft but not the G-R2 Piston or patched screws then contact Nicky T at our Manchester office on nick.t@planeteclipse.com, or Gerry Bates at our Rhode Island office on gerry.b@planeteclipse.com and we will send you the parts that you require as you do not need the full G-R2 Kit.

Please note that there is no serial number cut-off for this update. This Press Release applies to all Geo’s produced in 2008 and will apply to some Geo’s sold in 2009.

So how do you get one of these G-R2 Upgrade Kits?
- The ONLY way to get one is by registering your Geo, either by submitting the warranty card in the manual or by completing the online warranty application here: http://www.planeteclipse.com/site/eWarranty.asp. By successfully registering your Geo on or before the 31st March 2009, all customers who need one, will automatically be sent a G-R2 Upgrade Kit completely FREE OF CHARGE.

Please note that G-R2 Upgrade Kits will NOT be available at Eclipse Tech Booths, so register your Geo now to get yours now (if required).

Customers who are using late-edition (recently manufactured) Magna RF Transmitters with their Geos should NOT connect the transmitter to the solenoid connector on the Geo board. Doing so may cause the board to shut down when the gun is fired due to the excessive power requirement of the transmitter. RF transmitters should ONLY be connected to the AUX connector which has been specifically included on the board for this purpose.