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after power is shut off and turned back on, the FWF timer gets confused and restarts at either 10 days or 4 days, regardless of when a FWF was last done... This happened a few months ago and the unit was upgraded to the latest software by the dealer.

however, it is happening again now.

The big issue is that we can't trust whether or not an automatic FWF takes place since the unit can not actually display when the last FWF took place. Odd that despite all the electronic, touch screen display, etc.. nobody at SR thought about displaying when the last FWF was done.

obviously we're doing manual FWF if the unit isnt' used but it's an annoying bug...

Not that I've had experience with your particular issue, nor am I familiar with your particular unit, but you could always place a correctly ranged flow meter (counter type) in the freshwater line. Add it to the daily log and you'll soon build a picture of the FWF cycle.

But think yourself lucky that this is the only issue you have. My experience of Sea-Recovery RO plants have always been bad (Currently sailing with a larger commercial Sea6800 unit - 6800gpd). The electronics you speak of, although pretty to look at are a bit of overkill and can be a serious Achilles heel in the system. As with most electronics they don't like getting hot for one, so it is surprising that they opt to use this on possibly the hottest room on the vessel, where I have seen temperatures getting well in to the 50's (122F +), that being another issue entirely...

Every Coral Sea unit I have worked with has also had issues with the Analogue input modules due to vibration, which causes the terminal contact strip to wear out. Simply clipping in isn't the best option here in my opinion. This is not always due to the unit itself but from resonance from other equipment, although there is always some vibration from the HP pump simply due to it's nature - even with the correct belt/pulley alignment and tension. Try getting the system to run when one of these falls over and it sees a low system pressure all the time!!!

We have also had to modify the unit to include clamps for the hoses which weren't part of the installation. Without these the hose creates a large shearing force on the product port insert resulting in premature failure.

Their customer support representatives also having the annoying habit of treating you like a complete retard... Not sure what training they receive, but when they can't get past "Are all the correct valves open and have you changed the filters recently....." I begin to suspect my own engineering knowledge goes a bit past the flowchart they have in-front of them.

The long and short of all this is, given the choice I'd always elect to install the much simpler and more robust HEM system any day. No piece of equipment is without it's flaws but in my experience these are by far and away a much hardier unit.

Water Maker Operator’s Preventive Maintenance and Pre Run
The Factory Recommends that approximately every 50 hours of use the system should be inspected for the following:
• Mounting Hardware;
Due to the fact that the system is subject to vibrations transferred from the vessel and the equipment all mounting hardware should be inspected for tightness. Inspect all screws, brackets, nuts bolts and fittings. Pay special attention to the High Pressure Pump and Motor since this will be subject to the most vibrations.
• High Pressure Pump;
Regularly check the oil level in the crankcase when the pump is horizontal the minimum oil level should be at the center of the sight glass the maximum level should be at the top. Typically, high-pressure pump oil should be changed after the first 50 hours of system operation, and then after every 500 hours of usage. Be sure to use the correct recommended oil for your system.
Check the high-pressure pump on the water maker for leaks. If found, you might have to replace the high-pressure pump seals and/or valves.( It is recommended to replace seals after every 1500 hours of use and valves after every 3000 hours of use.)
• Regularly clean any salt water or residue found on or near the equipment with a rag wetted with fresh water.(Finding salt residue would indicate a leak of some sort)
• Check for fluid leaks either from oil or water from any part of the system.
• Be sure to only tighten the black parflex fittings by hand only and always use caution when tightening PVC fitting over tightening can result in cracking the fitting.
• Check all tubing and high pressure hoses for ware and friction chaffing against abrasive surfaces. Replace if necessary.
• Inlet Sea Cock Valve;
Check the Water Maker intake through-hull to make sure there are no restrictions or obstructions. Clean any debris or marine growth from the sea strainer. Make sure that the sea strainer gasket is not brittle (if so, replace it).
• Inlet thru hull fitting;
Test the seacock on the intake through-hull, to be sure it functions properly (that it opens and closes correctly) If the seacock is “frozen” applying any forcing movement can break it. Before the marine water maker is tested, make sure that the seacock is in the OPEN position. And that any over board valves or product water valves are open as well.
• Make sure all feed water and brine discharge hoses are free of leaks and that all hose clamps are secure. If clamps show signs of corrosion replace them, we recommend double clamps on all pressurized hoses.
• Booster Pump;
Check the low pressure pump to ensure that the pump freely turns, that the pump is properly fastened down, that there are no signs of leaks from the housings or shaft seal. It is recommended to have the Low Pressure Pump Seals replaced every 1200-1500 hours of use.
• Pre Filters;
Replace the pre filters on the water maker, and also make sure the seals on the pre filter housings are in good condition. If commercial pre filter and oil water separator housings are used it is recommended that when changing or cleaning the elements that the bottom of the housings be sucked out with a wet vac to prevent any debris from entering the High Pressure Pump or membranes.
• Check/replace the fresh water flush filter and carbon post filter element
• This should be done every 3-6 months on average
• Fresh Water Flush;
Test the fresh water flush line to make sure that the water from the fresh water tank reaches the water maker during the fresh water flush cycle. This assures that there were no valves that were inadvertently shut or that the line is somehow obstructed.
• Salinity probe;
Remove and inspect, clean with a scotch bright pad
We highly recommend you have a pocket Salinity meter on board to check water quality and recalibrate electronics if needed
Now test the operation of the water maker
It is best to test the water maker in open ocean conditions where the seawater is exposed to good tidal exchange.
Back the pressure regulator “off” all the way (turning it counter-clockwise as far as it will go).
Start the low-pressure pump (only) on the system and let seawater circulate through the system for about 10 to 15 minutes.
During this time, visually inspect the system, all components and all hoses to make sure that there are no leaks or other abnormalities. Confirm the feed water inlet pressure is in the approximate range of 20 to 40 psi
After this period of time; gradually increase the system pressure (turning the pressure regulator clockwise) until the system is at 820 PSI or making its rated product water output. (Which ever comes first?) Confirm the system operating pressure, feed water TDS, and system output.
If the system comfortably makes its rated product water output, there is no further testing to do on the water maker. If the system is unable to make its rated output, then the user should call a service technician to conduct further testing on the membranes.
Once the system testing is complete, turn the system “off” and hear the system fresh water flush solenoid activate. The user will hear the fresh water flushing through the system. Once the fresh water flush is complete, the water maker is ready to use for the season.
If you’re planning some long-haul cruising, important spare parts to carry on board include ; Pre and post filters, high-pressure pump oil, salinity Probe, high and low pressure switches, Seal kit for booster pump, high pressure pump seals and high-pressure pump valves.