Also, it looks like the rebar you are trying to use is way too heavy for such a small dinghy, LOL. Keep in mind you will have to make framing of it so you can cover it with few laters of chicken wire and then plaster it. Use 1/4 ” rebar. Check out this site. Scroll down and see that those concrete canoes hulls are pretty thin. You really don’t need more then 3/4 ” hull thickness for your dinghy,…

PS. The only “ashes” might have been pozzolan, which is a “volcanic ash”, used as an additive to concrete.

Also, it looks like the rebar you are trying to use is way too heavy for such a small dinghy, LOL. Keep in mind you will have to make framing of it so you can cover it with few laters of chicken wire and then plaster it. Use 1/4 ” rebar.

even half inch rebar bends pretty easily,

though it is rather heavy.

it was the only rebar available at home-depot.

guess I could go down to canadian tire get some of the thinner rebar.

maybe they have 1/2 inch chicken wire *hopes*.

though I can still use this 1/2 inch rebar for the larger boat correct?

actually now I think I’ll just go ahead and use the half-inch rebar,

it’s okay if the reinforced areas are protruding a little.

and based on my calculations amount of rebar I’m using is only 10kg,

considering that the concrete itself will likely weigh 60kg at least, it’s okay.

Check out this site. Scroll down and see that those concrete canoes hulls are pretty thin.

which site are you refering to?

You really don’t need more then 3/4 ” hull thickness for your dinghy,…

that’s actually much thicker than I was aiming for, I was thinking half inch tops.

PS. The only “ashes” might have been pozzolan, which is a “volcanic ash”, used as an additive to concrete.

What Spru IS proving is that the first step in an around the world trip begins with the first step. He’s doing it. And it’s a more than some of us have done. I’ve bought a boat: a MacGregor 26D. I’m still outfitting her in preparation for the shakedown cruise but I have plans…

Well I was actually thinking of this as a tutorial for those that come after me,

so they could build their own models, dinghy’s and seasteads.

I believe in open-source and freedom of information.

but in terms of “proving something”.

The incremental seasteading hypothesis.

As explained in Patri’s book on seasteading.

The most general area in which we must be incremental is the size of each project, in terms of cost and number of people. For these reasons, our plan includes a series of distinct stages, each involving a greater number of people.

First we complete a design, and build an aquarium-sized model. Then a pool-sized version. Next we build a habitable Baystead prototype for 5-10 people, anchored in sheltered waters

to the oar(s) from the other thread. I wasn’t trying to tell you what to do, Spru,…. just trying to save you some time since you can buy good oars really cheaply on craigslist or at the local chandlery.

Also, I have noticed from your design that you are building a “canoe stern” dinghy. If one day you might want to fit a small outboard there you might have a hard time doing that due to the round shape of your transom. Most of the dinghys are built with a straight transom so an outboard can be mounted there. Something for you to consider.

to the oar(s) from the other thread. I wasn’t trying to tell you what to do, Spru,…. just trying to save you some time since you can buy good oars really cheaply on craigslist or at the local chandlery.

Also, I have noticed from your design that you are building a “canoe stern” dinghy. If one day you might want to fit a small outboard there you might have a hard time doing that due to the round shape of your transom. Most of the dinghys are built with a straight transom so an outboard can be mounted there. Something for you to consider.