Ironwulf En Route - The Philippines Travel and Photography Blog » Yangonhttp://www.ironwulf.net
Adventure Travel and Photography in the Philippines and BeyondThu, 26 Feb 2015 12:52:35 +0000en-UShourly111-Days in Myanmar Chronicles Itinerary and Travel Budgethttp://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/23/11-days-in-myanmar-chronicles-itinerary-and-travel-budget/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/23/11-days-in-myanmar-chronicles-itinerary-and-travel-budget/#commentsWed, 23 May 2012 05:45:43 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6698Admittedly, it was hard to pack my stuff on the day of my leaving the country. I thought that the time I stayed there was too short but really memorable. I had my breakfast at Motherland Inn2 and rode their free shuttle to Yangon International Airport. Checking-in, passing through the immigration was a breeze and gave me enough time at the pre-departure area. And there were no exit 10,000 kyat exit fee as I read on some old text. All that kyat I was saving went to some souvenir ref magnets for home. Sitting at the chair looking at the runway, looking at my notes. I spent 11 days in Myanmar spending a little over P23000 during the trip.

Admittedly, it was hard to pack my stuff on the day of my leaving the country. I thought that the time I stayed there was too short but really memorable. I had my breakfast at Motherland Inn 2 and rode their free shuttle to Yangon International Airport. Checking-in, passing through the immigration was a breeze and gave me enough time at the pre-departure area. And there were no exit 10,000 kyat exit fee as I read on some old text. All that kyat I was saving went to some souvenir ref magnets for home. Sitting at the chair looking at the runway, looking at my notes. I spent 11 days in Myanmar spending a little over P23000 during the trip.

A Mural at the airport

While my whole trip including transit took 13-days in total, I only considered the 11-days in Myanmar as the full trip. Here’s the trip preparation notes and itinerary based on the posts.

I found that I spend around P23287 during my stay in Myanmar. This doesn’t cover my flights from Clark and Yangon and going back. I’m sure the flight details would differ depending on where you are. A big chunk of my budget went to Transportation amounting to about P10024. The transportation cost includes my bus rides, motorbikes and public transpo. And since I travel alone I usually hire my own motorbikes and horse carts so I can maneuver freely. I also saved a lot on accommodation since some of the bus rides I had were overnight ones.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/23/11-days-in-myanmar-chronicles-itinerary-and-travel-budget/feed/21Yangon: A Monk’s Guided Tour of Shwedagon Payahttp://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/17/yangon-a-monks-guided-tour-of-shwedagon-paya/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/17/yangon-a-monks-guided-tour-of-shwedagon-paya/#commentsThu, 17 May 2012 00:30:39 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6689"You can take a picture on this spot. You'll get a better view of the stupa here" a voice told me in somewhat a better Burmese-English while I was taking a photograph inside one of the pavilions in Shwedagon Paya. I looked back to see a young monk with glasses. He introduced himself as Xanther. He volunteered to take my photo. Thinking about it, I don't have a personal photo here yet so I obliged. He seemed like a friendly guy and offered to take me around the paya if I wanted. I wasn't sure at first but he might be one of those young monks trying to practice their English so I let myself be entertained.

“You can take a picture on this spot. You’ll get a better view of the stupa here” a voice told me in somewhat a better Burmese-English while I was taking a photograph inside one of the pavilions in Shwedagon Paya. I looked back to see a young monk with glasses. He introduced himself as Xanther. He volunteered to take my photo. Thinking about it, I don’t have a personal photo here yet so I obliged. He seemed like a friendly guy and offered to take me around the paya if I wanted. I wasn’t sure at first but he might be one of those young monks trying to practice their English so I let myself be entertained.

The people at Shwedagon Paya

I really planned to do a guided tour of Shwedagon Pagoda when I return on my last day in Myanmar, but I did not expect to have little kyat left as a guide would cost about 5000 kyat. On my first visit, I was just looking around appreciating the aesthetics but never really understood the significance of each pieces there. Now would be a great time to do a tour. I figured if Xanther would ask for a donation it would be less than that.

Xanther on the way to the Banyan Tree from India

The amount of detail in Shwedagon Paya can be really overwhelming and it’s a good idea to look at them in parts. Here are some things that I remember Xanther told me.

The original stupa umbrella

+ At this year (late 2011 when I visited) they are commemorating the 2600 years of the Pagoda. Items and memorabilia are sold there.

+ The Shwedagon is literally a treasure trove, the main stupa has layers of Gold Leaf accumulated through the years.

+ At the center of the stupa, there is a 3-feet Buddha made of pure gold. No one can get inside or see it aside from the LCD screens outside.

Another sacred banyan tree believed to grown from the original tree Buddha found enlightenment

+ There’s a 200-year-old Banyan Tree there from India where people lined up to make a human chain to distribute water to the tree from a far away lake to make sure it grows in a hot and humid day.

+ There are other elements of the paya that were donated by other countries and entities amalgamated that its easy to miss. Like this one bell donated from Korea or a pure jade Buddha encased in glass, crowned with real diamonds and rubies donated by a Mining Company

The Dhammazedi inscription dating back to 1485 tells the story of the Shwedagon in 3 languages, Pali, Mon and Burmese

+ The best time to look into the binocular stations would be around 6-6:30pm where the jewel-studded umbrella at the top of the main stupa would be beamed with light and would gloriously sparkle in different colors

+ Of course he also explained the concept of the bathing Buddha as it brings cleansing and good fortune to those would practice the ritual. (I also partook of the very short ritual)

Even with in the busy pagoda, there are still quiet corners ideal for meditation

In the duration of the tour, I also learned a lot from this young monk. He’s 28-years old and has been a monk for 6-7 years. He has been studying English on a school outside their monastery for 2 years which explains why he is good in English with only a few minor lapses in grammar. He came from a province west of Myanmar near the border of Bangladesh. He claims his blood is half Bangladesh and half Myanmar. He calls those people like himself Rakhine, one of the Ethnic groups of Myanmar.

A Mahabodhi style temple modeled after Bodhgaya India

As our last stop, Xanther showed me his favorite meditation spot. A quiet corner behind multiple giant Buddhas. That is when he asked for his donation of 4000 kyat. I found it ridiculous and sad at the same time that he had to put a price on a “donation”. Unfortunately for him, I’m down to my last few kyat and could only give him half.

The Shwedagon Stupa is made up of thick layers of Gold Leaf

I stayed for a while until dark not only to capture the dying light but also think of what had transpired. More than a week in a Myanmar and I still somehow got duped by an act of pseudo-kindness. But I’m not leaving Myanmar with that impression but of understanding. Myanmar with its exotic beauty is also home to people who have lived a life of long-term repression. A lot yearn for connection from the outside world, but they also try to live the best way they can.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/17/yangon-a-monks-guided-tour-of-shwedagon-paya/feed/5Yangon: On Foot to Shwedagon Paya from Downtown Yangonhttp://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/14/yangon-on-foot-to-shwedagon-paya-from-downtown-yangon/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/14/yangon-on-foot-to-shwedagon-paya-from-downtown-yangon/#commentsMon, 14 May 2012 02:50:40 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6675I let the wind lull me to sleep inside room 205 of Motherland Inn II. I arrived early morning in Yangonfrom Mandalay, took a shared taxi to town, had the free buffet breakfast at the inn and headed to my room at the upper floor. Finding the wide open view at my window, I opened the glass windows and was delighted to feel the gust of wind coming in. I turned of the aircon and left the window open except for the screen and let myself drift to dreamland.

I let the wind lull me to sleep inside room 205 of Motherland Inn II. I arrived early morning in Yangonfrom Mandalay, took a shared taxi to town, had the free buffet breakfast at the inn and headed to my room at the upper floor. Finding the wide open view at my window, I opened the glass windows and was delighted to feel the gust of wind coming in. I turned of the aircon and left the window open except for the screen and let myself drift to dreamland.

Overlooking Yangon skyline from SkyView restaurant

It was noon time when I woke up. I knew I needed to head out for lunch. With little kyat money as I was reserving a big part of my funds for an exit fee, I just decided to walk around town. I figured I should check out the places I missed the last time.

St Mary's Cathedral the biggest in Myanmar

Walking the length of Anawratha Road. I took a turn at Bo Aung Kyaw St headed south for the Olympic Building for SkyView Restaurant and Internet Cafe where I thought I’ll have my lunch and catch up a little on the internet. Took an elevator to the 15th floor. The restaurant was okay and had a good overlooking view of the city. The Chicken rice I ordered was ordinary but at least I get to enjoy the view. Oh yeah, there was no internet café there.

The funky interior of St Mary's Cathedral

Heading north at the same street leading to the main road Bogyoke Aung San Road is St Mary’s Cathedral, the largest cathedral in Myanmar. It’s red brick walls grabbed my attention when I passed by it on a vehicle. I might as well look at it up close and it was indeed impressive. This cathedral designed by Dutch architect Jos Cuypers, started construction in 1895 and finished by 1899. The structure withstood the earthquake in 1930, the Japanese invasion and even the Allied invasion in Rangoon. I’m not a catholic but it is nice to see that Christianity is still practiced in a placed filled with thousands of stupas. It was the onset of Christmas at that time and there were christmas trees and Santa Clause decoration at the grounds.

The Bogyoke Aung San market

I walked the stretch of Bogyoke Aung San road, passed by the old rail station that haven’t seen development in ages then a row of cinema houses until I reach Bogyoke Aung San Market. This large 2 story bustling market area used to be the first stop for foreigners to exchange their dollars to kyat. I was overwhelmed at first with the sheer number of shops in the area selling just about anything. I also got interested with the number of street-side tea shops with literally the windows used as counters.

This large two story market has shops on any kind of goods

Finally reached Shwedagon Pagoda Road leading directly to the Paya. I think in the 30-40 minutes walk from there, I passed by what seemd to be the upscale neighborhood of Yangon. A few temples until I reached the lesser visited, and newer Maha Wizaya Paya just across the grander Shwedagon Paya.

The busy side-street tea shops

A dishwasher at one of the teashops

Paid my 5000 kyat at the counter and found some really neat ref magnets at their souvenir shop. Decided to go by elevator this time along with a group of tourist to the main platform.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/05/14/yangon-on-foot-to-shwedagon-paya-from-downtown-yangon/feed/3Yangon: Chaukhtatgyi Paya’s Reclining Buddha, Monk’s Quarters and Meditation Centrehttp://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/05/yangon-chaukhtatgyi-paya-reclining-buddha-monks-quarters-and-meditation-centre/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/05/yangon-chaukhtatgyi-paya-reclining-buddha-monks-quarters-and-meditation-centre/#commentsThu, 05 Jan 2012 13:14:15 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6310The tranquil face of a gigantic Buddha filled my vision as I enter a large open shed with metal roof. He seemed contented there, reclining on the floor with his crown adorned with diamonds and precious stones glittering for everyone to see. This is Chaukhtatgyi Paya, home of this gigantic Buddha, uncommonly known but is considered one of the most beautiful reclining Buddha in Myanmar.

The tranquil face of a gigantic Buddha filled my vision as I enter a large open shed with metal roof. He seemed contented there, reclining on the floor with his crown adorned with diamonds and precious stones glittering for everyone to see. This is Chaukhtatgyi Paya, home of this gigantic Buddha, uncommonly known but is considered one of the most beautiful reclining Buddha in Myanmar.

The feet view of the Buddhe

My bus to Bagan wouldn’t leave until 6pm and finding out that Aung Mingalar Bus Station is long way out of the city, I decided a side trip would be good on the way to the station for the afternoon. I hired a taxi from the Inn. Taxi fare to Aung Mingalar Bus Station would usually cost around 5000-7000k but since I have a stop at Chaukhtatgyi Paya and waiting time, then a lunch stop, we agreed on 10,000 kyat.

Details of the sole markings

Chaukhtatgyi Paya with its reclining Giant Buddha is near and north of Shwedagon Paya but sees little tourist. As usual, sandals are not allowed and there is no entrance fee in this paya. It was easier to move around and see the Reclining Buddha on all corners. Near the foot of the Buddha, there’s even a platform to see from a higher vantage point. Speaking of the feet, the huge Buddha has very interesting distinguishing marks on its soles. There are 108 different marks said to be incarnations of Buddha in the three world levels until he reached the Buddha state at the centre of the markings.

Stairway to the Monk's Quarters

An old slender man about his 50s wearing a crimson longyi and presentable long sleeve white polo struck a conversation with me asking first where I was from and then started giving trivia about the Giant Buddha and the place. At first I didn’t show interest but was being polite as I know he would ask donations from me later. But when he offered to show me around the monk’s quarters and also the meditation area at the complex, he certainly captured my interest. Still on my bare feet I followed Momo, as he called himself, down the cold concrete stairway behind the Buddha. I asked him how much he would charge and told me it would be minimal. Dubious but I followed.

one of the floors at a monastery

There are several monasteries in the area and we entered a large typical double story building through its kitchen doors. Inside is almost bare with a few monks enjoying their siesta. Several of their robes hanging while their possessions of books, study scriptures, alms bowls are against the walls. Seeing this made me think how lucky they are to simply have the luxury to sleep whenever they want but then again, I know each of them have responsibilities. This particular Monk’s Quarters was the home of the hundreds of monks who protested in 2007. It had a violent and unfortunate end that sent a lot of monks back to their civilian lives and reduced their numbers here.

monk's alms bowls

We then walked a bit to Shweminwon Sasana Yiektha Meditation Centre where a group of people were deep in meditation. The air inside the hall was quiet and still and my presence there was simple a leaf silently fleeting unnoticed. Most of the people inside were women and nuns. Some were sitting still while a few were doing a walking meditation where they focused on each step, the movement of their legs, the feeling when their soles touch the floor and being one with the movement. It was interesting how each of them turn into the deeper world of their own being.

A nun deep in meditation

As we were heading back, I asked Momo again how much that tour would cost and he said he regularly charge 10,000 kyat. Ridiculous! I thought, since the guides at Shwedagon only charge half that. I said I won’t pay that much and only gave him 4000 kyat. He kept insisting but in the end he accepted it and I walked away. I dropped 400 kyat at the donation boxes at the paya entrance, took and wore my shoes. The tour was interesting but I don’t think it would amount to what he was charging. Momo was the first of the several people I would meet in Myanmar that would furtively try to lure you with their faux kindness but in the end, was out to swindle an ignorant traveller.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/05/yangon-chaukhtatgyi-paya-reclining-buddha-monks-quarters-and-meditation-centre/feed/8Yangon: Walking Downtown and Crossing through Sule Payahttp://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/02/yangon-downtown-and-sule-paya/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/02/yangon-downtown-and-sule-paya/#commentsMon, 02 Jan 2012 05:31:32 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6296“Where are you from?” is the usual ice-breaker question people here would ask. “I’m from the Phillippines” I replied with a smile as I bite into my toasted slice of bread with a healthy layer of butter and strawberry jam while having breakfast. Young adults here like to engage in a conversation to practice their English. “Where are you going today?” I told him that I’d be leaving tonight for Bagan but this morning I’ll hit the streets of Downtown Yangon first to do some sightseeing.

The Mahabandoola Road at the Indian Quarters with Sule Paya on the Horizon

“Where are you from?” is the usual ice-breaker question people here would ask. “I’m from the Phillippines” I replied with a smile as I bite into my toasted slice of bread with a healthy layer of butter and strawberry jam while having breakfast. Young adults here like to engage in a conversation to practice their English. “Where are you going today?” I told him that I’d be leaving tonight for Bagan but this morning I’ll hit the streets of Downtown Yangon first to do some sightseeing.

Some of the communal water stations on the streets

I felt refreshed after finally having a quality sleep that night on a proper bed. I needed that since I would be in transit in the evening which means sleeping lightly in a bus. Energized, I started my way to the main street, walking towards the stretch of Mahabandoola Road from Motherland Inn 2 all the way to China Quarters where I ate last night after visiting the Shwedagon Paya. The China Quarters was exciting as the streets were transformed into a sprawling hawker area. For a foreigner like me, it would be interesting to see the street activities especially that busy workday morning.

A local wearing the longyi and using an umbrella

First thing I noticed were the numerous water containers spread a few meters apart on the streets. Typical are the clay pot water jars with plastic plate to cover the top with a single metal cup on each. It may also vary from the regular water jugs from water stations but the concept here that these are communal water containers shared using a communal cup. Immediately, my senses were on alarm thinking about the spread of disease and sickness with a lot of anonymous people freely using those cups and dunking them on the water. But asking locals about it, some had mastered drinking without touching their lips on the cup but still my attempts on trying them out were futile.

Pigeon feeding in the morning

But looking beyond the hygienic obsessions I have, these public water stations symbolizes how the community looks after each other as these are personal water offerings from the households to strangers. With Myanmar having dry weather at times, this is a good way to keep people hydrated on the streets.

Sule Paya at the rotonda

The transition between the dusty inner suburban streets to the more commercial city center was apparent during my walk. The rush hour saw a lot of people from different walks of life spread across the streets. Common sight is the numerous cylindrical metal food canisters, where you can stack as many levels as you want, being brought along their work. Pigeon feeding seems to be a morning ritual for some and like the Vietnamese, a lot seem to like to take their breakfast on the streets before heading to their destinations. Umbrellas seem to be a regular accessory, whether with male or female and common with monks, to be used against the heat of the sun.

The Sule Paya has a unique octagonal stupa in Myanmar

People, despite rushing through their works still finds time to do some quick prayer and offerings on Nat Shrines hanging usually on the large age old trees. Reading newspapers is a regular past time for those who aren’t in a hurry. Technology is catching up in Myanmar with a considerable number of people having mobile phones and numerous MP3/MP4 signage spread across the streets. Phone IDD services are pretty popular at the streets as well costing around 300kyat per minute.

People bathing Buddha at Sule Paya

As I near Sule Paya, presence of monks and nuns begging for their morning alms were ubiquitous. The annoying ones were the shady characters at the streets offering to change money which I don’t really recommend. The grand Yangon City Hall stands in authority at the wide open rotunda streets behind Sule Paya.

Catching the Bus at the Indian Quarter

Sule Paya is one of the big 3 Payas in Yangon along with Shwedagon Paya and Botataung Paya. It’s unusually placed at the centre of the intersection and the business district, just shows how Buddhism is still the heart of the city. It’s worth paying the US2 or 2000 kyat to see the unique octagonal shaped stupa inside and people pausing amidst the busy streets to say a prayer. There are commercial stalls on the ground level with money changers, gadgets stores and fortune tellers.

one of the numerous IDD Phone services at the streets

Past Sule Paya is the Indian and Chinese Quarters. The busy street is teeming with people trying to ride the jam packed buses. Numerous stores line the streets selling just about everything from street foods, to MP3/MP4 players and other gadgets, beverages, household items even software and movie DVDs. At the Indian Quarters, the unique looking Clock Tower from Sri Siva Temple sticks out while Sule Paya can still be seen prominently over the elevated pedestrian way.

People like to read at the streets

The China Quarters isn’t as chaotic in the daytime as I saw the night before but the market nearby is still an interesting visit as well. From thanaka vendors to fresh fruits, fresh catch fish, vegetable, meats or some crispy critters. The Betel nut vendors remind me of the takatak cigarette vendors in Manila. The China Quarters was the end of my walk as it was already mid-day. It was interesting to see the culture from the streets and gave an insight of the day to day street life here in Downtown Yangon. People were pleasantly accommodating and didn’t really mind me taking photos as well.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2012/01/02/yangon-downtown-and-sule-paya/feed/8Yangon: Mesmerized by the Golden Shwedagon Pagodahttp://www.ironwulf.net/2011/12/22/yangon-golden-shwedagon-pagoda/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2011/12/22/yangon-golden-shwedagon-pagoda/#commentsThu, 22 Dec 2011 00:30:34 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6231Surprisingly, the endless stream of people didn’t bother me at all. My sight was fixated at the cone-shaped stupa piercing the sky. The afternoon light strikes its slab of gold layers making it shimmer magnificently under the sun. I am humbled by the towering presence of the Shwedagon Pagoda, the most sacred, the most ancient and the 2nd oldest Buddhist pagoda not only in Burma but all over the world. Surrounding the main stupa are numerous mini stupas, shrines, pavilions and prayer halls that it’s easy to get lost on the platform on a hill and be overwhelmed by the many details.

Surprisingly, the endless stream of people didn’t bother me at all. My sight was fixated at the cone-shaped stupa piercing the sky. The afternoon light strikes its slab of gold layers making it shimmer magnificently under the sun. I am humbled by the towering presence of the Shwedagon Pagoda, the most sacred, the most ancient and the 2nd oldest Buddhist pagoda not only in Burma but all over the world. Surrounding the main stupa are numerous mini stupas, shrines, pavilions and prayer halls that it’s easy to get lost on the platform on a hill and be overwhelmed by the many details.

One of the two chinthes at the south gate

It only took me about 15 minutes or less to reach Shwedagon Pagoda from downtown Yangon. It also made me realize taking taxis by myself, takes a big chunk of my budget with every 1000-2000 kyat I spent one way within the city. This made me careful and strategic when and where I take taxis here. I asked to be dropped at the southern entrance where the main reception is located. There’s a US$5 or 5000 kyat entrance fee here. They would give you a sticker to stick on your shirt to make sure you paid. And yes, there are inspectors roaming around the main platform area.

the wide and gradually climbing south stairway

Foreign visitors have a choice to use the elevator to the main platform. Since it’s my first visit, I decided to use the gradual climbing stairs at the south gate. Footwear should be removed before stepping on the first stairs and this is a practice on all the Payas/Pagodas in Myanmar. Slippers are the ideal footwear here as it’s easy to remove. I usually bring it along with me and hang it on my bag with a carabiner. That way I can exit wherever I want and don’t need to go back where I left my slippers.

Devotees bathing a Buddha at one of the planetary stations

At the southern gate there’s a couple of gigantic 30-feet high chinthe, a legendary half-lion, half-dragon figure that guards the entrance of the stairway. I’m also impressed with the details of the roofs leading high up the platform. The stairway is large and wide with souvenir vendors on each side. Walking up the stairs felt like a dim introduction to a movie. Once I reached the main platform, the projection lights up and a myriad colors fill the sights and the sounds bombard the senses.

A devotee in solemn prayer

I came there with no guide despite a few offers of guides there for a US$5 tour. I wanted to go around first and get a feel of the place first. The platform is huge with a lot of sections and each element there has a significant story to tell that it’s really ideal for a slow and careful inspection to really appreciate everything there. I crazily took shots while circling around endlessly on the platform. Despite the endless stream of tourist, I’m just astounded by the faith the Buddhist devotees display here. There are people deep in prayer and a few monks shutting out the outside world while wandering deep into their meditative state.

For a Buddhist, the Shwedagon is one of the places they wish to visit once in their lifetime

When I got a little tired I sat down on one of the tazaungs (small pavilions) there where a monk was deep in study and a thilashin, a Buddhist nun chanting prayers behind me. I read up a little on the legend of Shwedagon. This year marks its 2600 years of celebration and it begins with the two merchant brothers Taphusa and Bhallika from the Ancient Mon state of Burma who met the young Lord Guatama Buddha who plucked 8 strands of hairs to be enshrined in Burma as gratitude for the brothers offering of a honey cake after his 49-day meditation under a Bodhi Tree. Their return trip was difficult loosing half of the hairs from robbers. King Okkulapa of Burma welcomed them still and held a grand feast that even the native gods and Nat spirits attended. They found Singattura Hill were other relics of Buddha prior from Guatama were enshrined and when they opened the golden casket, they found all the 8 strands of hair and a golden light radiated and filled the hill spreading to the ends of the earth. With it the earth shook and showered miracles like the blind seeing again and the sick being healed the trees and plants blossomed and precious stones showered from the sky. Since then the Singattura Hill became the most sacred place in Burma and the Shwedagon Pagoda was built over the hill. The merchant brothers became the first Buddhist brothers in the world.

A monk in meditation

It was really a fascinating story heightened by my presence on the Singattura Hill itself. The deep blue twilight sky enveloped the hill and the lights illuminated the stupa which glistened magnificently as gold. So fitting is the name Shwedagon from the Burmese words “Shwe” meaning gold and “Dagon” meaning three hills. A short afternoon here was not enough; for sure it won’t be my last visit here.

]]>http://www.ironwulf.net/2011/12/22/yangon-golden-shwedagon-pagoda/feed/15Yangon: A Walk to Botataung Paya and Monk’s Robe Weavers Encounterhttp://www.ironwulf.net/2011/12/15/yangon-botataung-paya-and-monks-robe-weavers/
http://www.ironwulf.net/2011/12/15/yangon-botataung-paya-and-monks-robe-weavers/#commentsThu, 15 Dec 2011 00:30:21 +0000http://www.ironwulf.net/?p=6199Maps are my best friend when I’m exploring a new place. Starting from where I am, the Motherland Inn 2, I asked the girl at the reception for the location of the Thian Phyu Money Changer Center on the map and found out it was about 3 blocks south west. Since I don’t have any kyat yet, I just decided to walk. Besides, exploring on-foot is the usual way for me to get to know the city. Botataung Paya is on the way so it might be a good place for a side trip.

Maps are my best friend when I’m exploring a new place. Starting from where I am, the Motherland Inn 2, I asked the girl at the reception for the location of the Thian Phyu Money Changer Center on the map and found out it was about 3 blocks south west. Since I don’t have any kyat yet, I just decided to walk. Besides, exploring on-foot is the usual way for me to get to know the city. Botataung Paya is on the way so it might be a good place for a side trip.

The bronze Buddha on the nearby pavillion that has been to India and London

Lower Pazundaung is a residential area near the train tracks. I followed the route of the train leading to the main road and saw the crumbling and messy condition of the surroundings, not a surprise since it’s virtually the same in the Philippines on some parts. Anawratha Road was wide and vehicles zoom pass fast. There was no traffic light on this part but passing through was manageable as the traffic volume wasn’t high. I saw large shipping crates on the horizon and headed that direction towards Yangon River.

The intricate patterns made of gold inside the maze-like stupa hallways

Botataung Paya* sticks out from the Strand Road with a noticeable number of vendors by the street and an arch leading to the road along the Pagoda. There’s a US$2 entrance fee and another US$1 for the camera fee and that’s almost P150 which I thought was not really cheap but I’m hoping that it’s worth the visit. I left my slippers by the cashier booth and entered the pagoda.

The pond bridge leading to theNat Pavillion

The Botataung Paya is named in reverence to 1000 Military Leaders (Bo means leader and Tataung means 1000) who escorted the 8 Buddha hair strands relic from India to Myanmar 2000 years ago. These relics were in the site for a time until it was distributed to different locations in Myanmar. As one of the “Big Three” Payas in Yangon (along with Shwedagon Paya and Sule Paya), Botataung Paya isn’t something that really wowed me at first look but it didn’t disappoint either.

Bo Bo Gyi, the nat spirit guardian of Botataung

Its zedi (stupa)** is quite unique among the stupas found in Myanmar as it is hallow inside and people can walk through. It actually felt like a maze inside with its golden walls adorned with beautiful patterns and protected by a layer of glass. On some quiet alcoves are spots few sole people to meditate, I even found one fortune-teller inside. At the center of the stupa, people gather to see and worship what is believed to be the remaining Buddha Relic in the Paya. And probably throw a few kyat as offerings.

Chanced upon a group of women weaving robes for the monks

The paya ground is really spacious making for a pleasant walk with the absence of big crowds. In an elaborately designed pavilion nearby is a bronze gilded Bronze Buddha statue which found its way to India and London and was brought back in Myanmar. Further back is a large pond with a beautiful bridge leading to a nat pavilion for the spirit guardian of Botataung Paya, Bo Bo Gyi. Aside from Buddhism, Burmese also believe in Nat Spirits and worship them. There are 37 known great nats who they believed were human beings who met violent death. Bo Bo Gyi, with the image of an old man with a cane that signifies old age, is one of them. There are also turtles in the pond that locals feed for good fortune.

Robe Weavingis down with slow, less forceul and precise strokes

In one of the pavilions, I was lucky to chance upon a group of women weaving some monk’s robes. A monk’s robe, aside from its striking bright colors needs to be soft yet strong and flexible since it’s what they usually wear and can be converted in many ways depending on the condition. And seeing how they weave these robes was new to me.

The Robe Weavers also make sure that there are no loose or tied up knots

None of the people there could speak English and explain to me how they work but looking at it, I notice the slow precision movements they do in contrast to the fast forceful movements I’ve seen on some weavers. There would be times they would stop and pick out any uneven knots or tied up ends to make sure that everything’s clean and smooth. That’s perhaps the reason for the quality of the robes monks use – made with care and precision.

Weaving Monks Robe details

For a first pagoda visit, that went well. I proceeded to the Money Changer to get some needed cash. Besides it’s already mid-afternoon and I haven’t had my lunch yet.

*Paya means “Holy One” and refers to Buddhist monuments like pagodas, stupas, zedis and statues.**zedi can be interchanged with stupa which is a solid hemispherical or cylindrical cone