This wine shop sounds irresistible: "But afterward, drop by the Marani Wine Shop (32-93-45-63), a little storefront in the center at 18 Pushkini Street. The owner, Nugzar Melikishvili, carries many of the country’s best wines, and offers samples from unlabeled stocks he gets directly from local winemakers. His supply of domashnaya chacha, a homemade Georgian grape moonshine, can also be grand, if scorching. Have a free sample. (He will typically sell you a liter of the stuff for less than 5 lari. Do not drink it all in one sitting.)"

I have long had a soft spot in my vinous heart for authentic Georgian wine culture and that of the Eastern/Southeastern European countries. We hear far too little about it, but this article has done a good job bringing these ancient winemaking countries to the fore.