I've read in several places that bi-post to PC adapters are readily available from Paramount and other sources. I would infer from this, that at least some bi-post equipped shutters offer X synch. Can any bi-post be used with electronic (X synch) flash or only some? Is there a switch or lever to allow use of either flashbulbs or electronic flash? I've done quite a bit of searching and read a zillion Ebay ads for cameras with bi-post, but this point never seems to be addressed.

Basically, I want to know if I can use my Vivitar 283 if I were to buy a camera with a bi-post equipped lens.

Basically, I want to know if I can use my Vivitar 283 if I were to buy a camera with a bi-post equipped lens.

Peter, it isn't THAT simple [nothing is with Graflex, right?]. The bi-post sync has nothing to do with whether a lens has, or doesn't have, X sync. That's a function of the shutter. Lots of press lenses with bi-post sync had both, especially after the war. In fact, the popular 135mm Optar lens was offered in a shutter that ONLY had X sync. I guess it just comes down to: it depends. Check the shutter to see whether it has X or not. If so, you can get the proper cord from Paramount to connect it to your flash. Good luck.

As far as Graflex-brand (Wollensak) shutters are concerned, if the imprint on the faceplate of the shutter says "Graphex (X)" or "Graphex M-F-X" then the shutter has a built-in synchronizer that will allow you to use electronic flash. With the "M-F-X"-synch shutters you may also use flashbulbs (black "M" for GE no. 5, red "M" for GE no. 6). The Paramount cords work great: I have a bi-post to Vivitar cord for use with my Vivitar 2800. Sometimes the contacts on these old shutters need a little nudging to fire up again. With two of the three Graflex shutter/lens combinations that I own, I had to tear down the shutter just to the point where I could get into the synchronizer to adjust and clean the contact blades. In one instance I also had to fashion a new insulator out of electrical tape to replace one that had disintegrated. There are reprint "shop manuals" available for the Graphex no. 1, 2, and 3 shutters. One source is http://photobooksonline.com/books/manual03.html item no. 90026, "Graflex Graphex Shutters no. 1,2,3."

thanks for the above info..i myself just picked up a crown graphic with a bipost mated on the lensboard. i can't add any practical experience or know-how to this discussion right now, but perhaps i may be checking back once i get my PC cord from paramount within the next week or so. the question which peter posted is basically the same one that i was going to be asking. i am seeking to use my sunpak 522 electronic flash gun with the crown graphic. i tried to splice together a couple of cords which came i got with the camera which likely would have worked but one of the cords (the one with the bipost plug) was old with brittle insulation around the wires. once my ham hands finished up with a well-done splice all that managed to happen when i connected the makeshift cord was that the flash would just rapid fire every time i touched or moved the cord. i didn't seem that any connection got thru to the camera. this is when i decided to commission paramount to make a proper cord instead of my mickey mouse,half-baked efforts. thanks & maybe i'll be back.

If it's a Graphex shutter, my guess would be that the red "M" is intended for the "slow" bulbs like the no. 6, that peak at 24 ms or greater. At any rate, that would be consistent with the info I have from Graflex (see "sources" in my post under "Grafex [sic] Shutter Red M vs. Black M"). On red "M" the shutter would be fully open 4 ms AFTER the flash peak, using no. 5 bulb (which peaks at 20 ms). But why not just fire a test shot or two and see what happens? (Why, oh why didn't I buy a couple of dozen 12-packs of 5Bs at the K-Mart 15 years ago?? I have nine bulbs remaining in a 12-pack that cost $1.98! Holy jeez!)

I think you are right, its time for test shots. Finally got all the sync cords,Graflite and a nice vivitar 3900 for my cameras with X. Also have a Century with a Graflar, going to see if is as bad as some people say it is. When I was using #5s in the 50's they were 99 cents a dozen. Thanks, Russ

Let us know how your flash work turns out. Re: the Graflar (do you mean GrafTar?), a 103 mm f4.5 Graftar came with my Century. It's a competent lens, in my slight experience with it, but it has very limited coverage so the front movements are severely compromised. This makes it fairly useless for architectural work. The Optar 101 f4.5, on the other hand, has plenty of coverage and is a Tessar (4-element), not a triplet like the Graftar. I find both lenses to be acceptably sharp. But here's the advantage of the Graftar: if you want to do any hand-held old-timey press camera-type work, the Graftar is great! It's self-cocking, which is very handy for rapid shooting, and you wouldn't be using the movements for such work anyway. I took my Century w/Graftar and 120 rollholder to a WWII-era air show and got some great shots composing through the sports finder and focussing through the Kalart rangefinder. One guy saw what I was doing and told me that it was very appropriate equipment for the subject matter (altho of course the Century wasn't made until 1949---but close enough!).

Henry, toward the end, Graflex offered the Century with a Graflar 101mm lens, in a Prontor shutter. Mine was great! Full 6x9 coverage. The Prontor NEVER needed cleaning, and kept its accuracy, something I couldn't say about the Copals nor the Graphex shutters.

Well it was not a Graflar, but rather a Trioptar, pretty standard for the Century I think. I also have Have a Raptar,Ektar,Optar with no sync,a compur-Rapid with Tessar and PC sync. You never no what you will find on Graflex Cameras. I kind of like the idea of the self cocking shutter, and may change the lens, if the Triopar does not work out. Russ

Here's more info from the Century Graphic instruction manual. This applies to the Century Shutter (such as mine, w/Graftar 103 mm lens): "The Century Shutter has X-F-M synchronization built in. The proper shutter speed for the appropriate flash is easily identifiable by means of the corresponding colors: Black 1/200-Type X-Zero Delay electronic flash; Green 1/100 1/50-Type F-SM and SF; Red: 1/25 1/10-Type M-#5, #25, Press 40, #22, etc." In a footnote, the following info is given: "Century Shutters with only black and red settings are not synchronized for Class 'X' Electronic Flash." Hope this helps. Reminder to myself: when in doubt, read the instructions....

I've used my Speed Graphic with a Supermatic (X) shutter and a Vivitar 283 or 215 without any problem except occasional "tickles" from my Micky Mouse (tm) bipost to pc female adapter. No tickles with the Paramount adapter, though.