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Thought that this subject may be of use for members to post up modern alternatives to the original. I will start off.

On early Selectamatic tractors there is a filter housing on the top of the rear axle behind the 3-way taps. These were discontinued on the later models but if you are looking for a filter, look for a Crossland 505 or AC 21.

For the spring wires that the front grille fasteners turn and latch into and the bonnet radiator flap, (Selectamatic) soft-top Triumph Spitfire hood fasteners use the same part. From the Triumph owners Club.

For the Implematic type grille louvre clips, the ones in the nose-cone, John Deere 20 series tractors have the same clips to secure the engine side panels. Available from JD dealers.

The plastic sheaths with a lip that go over the spires on the back of the gold top grille louvre to hold it in the nose-cone are the same as what is used to secure older chrome script badges on cars, there are several different sizes. Available from motor trim suppliers.

Another. Ploughing lamp switch. Same switches as used on Hotline electric fencer units and their hand-lamps, the rubber covers come with them as well. only diference is that the wire connectors are solder on type instead of the original 'eye and screw' but you won't see that in the lamp housing.

To renew the rubber ring on the tacho or as I call it, the hour counter where it cushions against the dash panel, use a diesel filter ring.

Inside door handles, the stick-up tube bit, on 'high' cab doors have a rubber on them, or they should have. Replace with rubber walking stick ends with the same internal size as the hande. Available in a lot of hardware shops.

VAK, Cropmaster, 25 & 30 series tractors. On the rear edge of the nose-cone each side where the front edge of the side panels cover, originally there was a strip of 1/2 inch wide webbing riveted down the full length. This webbing strip is still obtainable from motor trimmers as it was used on the old cars with the side folding bonnets. Available by the metre and is treated with what smells like a weak solution of creosote to prevent it rotting. The copper 'bicufrated' rivets are still available from the same source as well, in various sizes, also used to secure the back edge strip on the bonnet of these tractors and all the later ones up to Q cab as well. If you are wondering what these rivets look like, smaller in physical size but like the brass mushroom-headed split tail paperclips you see in stationers.

Powerrabbit wrote:On early Selectamatic tractors there is a filter housing on the top of the rear axle behind the 3-way taps. These were discontinued on the later models but if you are looking for a filter, look for a Crossland 505 or AC 21.

Also known as an engine oil filter for a Ford 105E Anglia (and 109E Classic/Classic Capri)...

This thread is a good idea. I'll try to find some of the paperwork for seals and other gubbins that I've replaced and post them here (ie standard seal codes - available from a good bearing factor). I know I've done the PTO seal on the 780, but I can't remember what else I've done offhand...

The push--and-twist bulb holders in the light pods on the flat-top mudguards are the same fitting as those from the rear light clusters on old Morris Marina cars and others with the same fittings. These bulb holders are better than the original as they have the wider brass connector spades on them whereas the D.B original Butler type had thinner steel spades that inevitably rusted off.

The reflectors that fit to the little brackets on the mudguards on cabbed D.B tractors, the ones that have a metal back with a threaded spire and small nut are Lucas and are the same as was fitted to 90 and Defender Land Rovers. Still available from LR parts stockists.

Sparex parts S.3228 and S.3229 are forward facing equivalents of square mudguarded selectomatic rear lights S.3226 and S.3227. The later are listed as fitting DB and NH but the former only as suitable for Fiats.

Bernie990. You have to be carefull with these Sparex lights as some of the 'rear' ones only have side and indicator lamps and no brake lamp and the other rear type have side and brake but no indicator lamps.

Well Bernie, seems like they have taken notice of people complaining about them and have now got these lamps right. As for the legal requirement, A O K. That may inspire me to submit an FAQ topic, 'tractor lighting reqirements under the Law', not so much as what tractors should have in the way of lighting but more of requirements on age of tractor which are a lot different than on cars.

It's getting a little more difficult to come up with alternative replacement parts for D.B tractors now as they were in the main geneticly, if thats the right word, unique. David Brown as we all know manufactured the majority of the sum total of parts in their own factories and it was not untill later years that they 'farmed out' certain manufacturing of parts to other companies and this is why the word 'alternative' stumbles a little as a lot of these other companies have either fallen by the wayside, been taken over by others or amalgamated and since the demise of the D.B. factory itself, the manufacture of what may be termed as 'genuine' parts has gone the same way. Parts that may be deemed as genuine still being manufactured are predominately common across other makes of tractor of the period such as electrical equipment, certain gagues and a few other bits and bobs but nowadays lacks the exactness of the quirky slight differences that made the D.B parts unique.
I was in conversation a while ago with a person who brought up the subject of originality. He said that there is no vintage, classic or modern classic that is 100% original as over the years parts have been changed and non original and factor parts have been used either in repair, maintenance or restoration of tractors, so if you ran a competition to find the most original tractor you probably would never do it. My side of the argument was that all older tractors were used to earn a living and parts wore and had to be replaced so this would mean that any part being replaced would void the tractor as non original which, to me, is rubbish. I said that any tractor, restored or no, could be deemed as original as long as parts used were the correct replacements and manufactured for the purpose by the original manufacturer or their successors. I went on to inform this gentleman that if a competition were to be run on originality that I reckon that my 1968 780 would come very near or at the top in this as although parts have been replaced, all replacements have been 100% genuine D.B parts, in fact I told him that my 780 had one carefull owner from new, has done 12,227 hours and has had nothing major ever replaced, all engine parts, ancillaries, tinwork etc was totally untouched from new, it is even still on its original clutch. So I challenged him to run a competition.

Sorry if this post has been a bit boreing but I think it is very relevent to the subject. Any one else have comments?