...Place the R6 on a level surface and position straight up. A slight tilt
to a side can result in a false reading.

...You can check it cold to be sure there is sufficient oil in the system,
however a very good time to check oil is after a ride, letting the cycle cool
down a few minutes for the oil to settle, thus it will be ready for the next
ride.

...Remove the dipstick found on the right side of the cycle and wipe it clean.
Then insert the dipstick back into the dipstick hole without screwing it in.
Remove the dipstick again and view the oil level. The oil level on the
dipstick should be between the minimum and maximum level marks.

...If the engine oil is below the
minimum level mark, remove the oil filler cap and add sufficient oil to raise
the level to the maximum mark. Be very careful not to overfill and be
careful to replace the dipstick and fill cap.

R6 Oil Change

After a ride, let the cycle sit to cool enough for an oil change.

Tools

...Above are basically all the tools
needed to remove the left side cowling and to change the oil.
...4mm hex socket &/or key, 17mm six-point socket.
...Note: I would suggest you acquire a series of breaker bars (long
handle) so that you can use controlled extra leverage on many of the fasteners.
Yamaha applies locktite to most fasteners and they can be very difficult to
break loose, i.e. the drain plug.
...Not shown is an oil filter wrench. Take a new filter to the auto stores
and find an oil filter wrench that will work. The pics below will show you
that the filter is in a location which really needs a wrench to properly remove
it. I would try to find the type that fits over the top of the filter and
has a socket handle insert so that you can use a breaker bar to remove the
filter and then use a torque wrench to tighten the filter if you want to follow
the manual. Of course there are less sophisticated tools/ways of doing the
job. Most people simple snug up the drain plug and hand tighten the oil
filter so they are not over tightened.

Remove the left side cowling,
called cowling B.

...Take your time and learn how to remove the left
side cowling so it is not damaged, especially the front tabs underneath the
cowling.

Remove the coolant bottle cover.

...In order to properly get at the
oil filter it is best to remove the coolant cover and release it from the
'drain' hoses which you can see hanging down at the base of the cover.
Lift the hoses out of the way, or just use a piece of string, etc. to hold they
up and back. I would take a good look at how they go back into position
(or take a pic, make a drawing).

..Remove the coolant reservoir cover
by removing the fasteners.

Removing the left side cowling.
...To remove the cowling on the left side or Cowling B, go slowly until the
procedure is learned following the diagrams and pictures below to develop a
visual image of the procedure.

...Remove the three bolts on the
left side lower cowling.

...Remove the 8 bolts on the left
side cowling.

...CAREFUL...study how the cowling
'clips' together underneath the bike, both at the front and the rear of the
cowling. The insert in the manual picture above is shown in the next two
picture. Note that as you slide the cowling backwards the front tabs and
with the clips seen below should move backward as the rear of the cowling is
worked with to release the tabs at the back. Do not role or twist the
front tabs shown. After the cowling is carefully moved backwards the rear
tabs will drop down to release, then the front tabs will release by carefully
pulling outwards, and not rolling the front, which could cause the tabs to
break. You need to understand how the cowling is installed before
attempting to remove the cowling so the front tabs are NOT broken.

...Slide on the left side cowling
backward to release the rear taps following the pics below. Then release the
front by carefully working the cowling outward and NOT rolling it downwards.

...Above you can see the underneath
tail of the cowling has tabs that must be moved backwards so they can release
down, and then the entire cowling will slide backwards and then can be pulled
outward to release the entire cowling.

...This is what the left side
cowling looks like after removal. Just remember not to roll the cowling
downward and do not use a great deal of force. This is a very light and
delicate piece and very costly to replace. Note a cardboard tray is
utilized for a fastener holder and also to set the cowling on so that it does
not get scratched.

Draining the old oil from the engine
crankcase.

...Remove the engine oil filler cap
(on the right side of the bike) and drain bolt to drain the oil from the
crankcase.

...Use a breaker bar to break the bolt loose, then
you can use a normal ratchet. Get into a habit of using a breaker bar on
large fasteners as it gives much more control and reduces chances of stripping
threads or heads of the fasteners.

....This is the first change on the
2003 R6 and was done at 400 miles after following rather modern 'thoughts' on
break-in, some of which are discussed on
http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1breakin.htm Breaking in a new
bike is a personal option that must be considered. Hot/cold cycles were
utilized with each outing having several runs going farther and farther up into
the rpm band, ending in a very short/rapid break-in period. The oil removed
was remarkably 'clean.' Mobil 1 cycle was used on this initial oil
change.
...Find a place that will accept old oil and their procedure. Be
environmentally sound and dispose of old oil, coolant, tires, etc. properly.

Replace the oil drain bolt.

...Install the engine oil drain bolt
and tighten to 31 ft-lb or 43 Nm if you have a torque wrench and wish to use it.
The rule of thumb by most mechanics however, is to snug the drain plug down but
not to over tighten the bolt as the threads are rather delicate and the get used
more than nearly all fasteners. When you replace the oil filter the rule
of thumb is to hand tighten and firm it up to the point of not completely
'squashing' the filter rubber seal or o-ring down to the point the filter
becomes nearly impossible to easily remove the next time.
...Be sure to
check for any damage to the drain bolt washer and replace if necessary.
It is often a good idea to order several spare drain bolt washers and have them
on hand. It is not a bad idea to keep track of the common fasteners and
parts that may need replaced later on and order spares to have on hand.
...BE SURE YOU HAVE REPLACED THE
DRAIN BOLT !!!

Remove and replace the oil filter.

...Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench.
...SUGGESTION: Yamaha over tightens and locktite's the OEM fasteners.
It is a good idea to use only six-point sockets and breaker bars on many of the
fasteners, as the axel nuts, etc. Once broken loose and spec torque used
the fasteners will break loose correctly the next time. The same is true
with the oil filter. Even a cartridge wrench many not work on the oil
filter the first time. A strap type oil filter remover may be the best
bet. If all else fails you will probably have to fight the filter loose
with oversized channel locks (which is a very good tool to have in the
arsenal). You can lock onto the filter with a reverse grip with the
channel locks and then use another large set of pliers to attempt to turn the
channel lock which will give a type of breaker bar leverage effect. I
would not suggest using the 'screwdriver' method. Remember, the second
time the filter is removed it will be much, much easier.
...When you replace the oil filter, just hand tighten it and snug down firmly.
The filter will come off easier the next time.

...Keep the oil catch pan under the oil filter as a
quantity of oil will drain out. You can set the filter aside to completely
drain and cut it open for inspection later, if you wish to see if any unusual
particles have been collected.

Replacing the oil filter.

...I run several cycles so usually one oil and
filter change a year is normal.
...I run OEM filters and use Mobil 1 cycle in all bikes.
...Oil, filters, coolant, plugs, etc. are personal choices, however riders
uncomfortable with a knowledge base should rely on proven examples from others
until they gain the insight to fell confident with their own decisions.
...You will not go wrong with OEM filters and Mobil 1 cycle, both are hard to
equal let alone beat. However, people do report clutch slippage with full
synthetic but the incident is usually very small with normal street riding.
If slippage occurs, most riders change back to non-synthetic oil and slippage
stops.

...Apply a thin coat of engine oil
to the o-ring of the new oil filter cartridge. Be sure the o-ring on the
filter is properly seated and in its original position. The oil film will
assure a leak-free seal of the filter to the engine case.

...Install the new oil filter
cartridge using you hand to tighten firmly. You can then use a torque
wrench on the oil filter wrench to apply the correct torque if you have both
tools. Oil filter torque is 12 ft-lb or 17Nm. I generally just hand
tighten oil filters as they come off much easier the next oil change. The
manual continues to recommend proper torque. You have to make your own
decision.

Replace the cowling.

...To install the cowling fit the
slots and projections at the rear bottom (under the bike) of each cowling
together, and then slide the left cowling forward and into place.
REMEMBER: the cowling must not be rolled upward. The tabs are
constructed so that the cowling 'moves' into place from the side and then slides
forward into position. Be careful of the tabs. Go back to the top of
this page and refresh your 'visual' of the cowling construction if not
completely sure how it fits.

...And the left side/right side
cowling are together at the front of the bike.

...After the left cowling is in the
original position and install the bolts. Be sure that the tabs at the
front of each cowling fit side by side and that all slots and projections bit
together.

...Re-install the coolant reservoir
cover by installing the bolts.

Add fresh oil.

...Add the specified amount of oil
depending on what was done. Generally you will change the filter therefore
you should add 2.75 US quarts of oil.
........Oil quantity to add with an oil filter change is 2.75 US qt. or
2.6 L.
...........Oil quantity without an oil filter change is 2.54 US qt. or 2.4 L.
|............If the engine is totally dry, 3.59 US qt. or 3.4 L.

...Yamaha does not recommend
adding any chemical additives, and that is also the consensus on nearly all of
the cycle lists on the internet. Yamaha states, do not use oils
with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of higher quality than specified,
plus do not use oils labeled "Energy Conserving II" or higher.

...After the oil is changed, check
that everything has been done correctly and closed up correctly.Start the
engine and look for oil leakage. Absolutely turn the engine off if leakage
is occurring and correct the problem. The oil warning light will go off is
the oil level is sufficient. The oil warning light indicates oil level in
the pan and not oil pressure. Turn the engine off anytime there is overheating
as well, or you will be in danger of immediate, very serious engine damage.
DO NOT RUN ON A HOT ENGINE OR LOW
OIL!!

My present thoughts--
...I am using OEM filters on every change but only changing yearly or not too
often with Mobil 1 cycle oil.
...How often you change oil, the oil you use, etc. are a matter of choice, but
take some time to study the various issues and ideas. If not sure, copy
someone with a method that makes sense to you. Try to change your own oil
and do a lot of personal maintenance so you bike will they the care you
personally desire.
...Superior engine lubrication and cooling are imperative in precision, high
performance engines. Full synthetic oil is just too superior in
lubrication properties for cold start up, prolonged storage, hard/hot running to
pass up for the normal street rider.
...A very high percentage of engine wear has been reported to take place at cold
start-up, warm-up, oil change time. Some people attempt to reduce the
number of oil changes and change filters every two changes. I just change
the oil and filter every year, generally in the fall so that the cycle is not
sitting with 'contaminated' by-products all winter, even though I tend to ride
all winter when possible.
...I never let the cycle sit and idle, but start, get the engine running
smoothly and drive off, warming up as much as possible for 10-12 miles of
moderate speed/loads, remembering an engine is not fully warmed until 15+miles.

IowaZ ride of choice.

Looking down the Mississippi River from below the
Saverton, Missouri lock and dam.
There can be only one: The ride along from Hannibal to Louisiana and
Clarksville, Missouri, crossing the River at Louisiana, riding into Pike Co.
Illinois, along the Illinois and Mississippi River or the 'Land between the
rivers,' then on to Grafton and Alton, Illinois, is an IowaZ first choice area
ride.

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