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Did you try the passenger side brake bulb in the driver side socket (maybe the new lamp is bad)??

If it works, then the problem is either a bad ground connection / wire at / between chassis and the shell of brake lamp socket, or bad 12 volt wire at / between the common passenger 12 volt brake light wire in the harness to the center contact on the brake lamp socket.

My suggestion is if the brake lamp wire is ONLY for brakes - not the directional too, simply add a new wire spliced into the passenger side brake light wire and extend it to the brake light wire closest to the new socket that you recently installed on the driver side. Disconnect the vehicle brake wire from the new socket and wire nut it off or tape it up (so it can't short out if it somehow becomes energized again) and splice this new wire to the new socket.

Did you try the passenger side brake bulb in the driver side socket (maybe the new lamp is bad)?? If it works, then the problem is either a bad ground connection / wire at / between chassis and the shell of brake lamp socket, or bad 12 volt wire at / between the common passenger 12 volt brake light wire in the harness to the center contact on the brake lamp socket. My suggestion is if the brake lamp wire is ONLY for brakes - not the directional too, simply add a new wire spliced into the passenger side brake light wire and extend it to the brake light wire closest to the new socket that you recently installed on the driver side. Disconnect the vehicle brake wire from the new socket and wire nut it off or tape it up (so it can't short out if it somehow becomes energized again) and splice this new wire to the new socket. Test & you're done!

I would sugest a bad earth, 1st remove the brake globes & see if the sockets that house them are rusty, if so clean with emery paper & refit globes. See if this works 1st. ps don't forget to clean the globes contacts to

If both are not working, check your brake light fuse and then bulbs for burnt filaments. If ok, could be wiring or brake light switch located at the back of the brake pedal. To eliminate the switch, if your car is equipped with cruise control, try to engage it and if it works, the switch is good, if not, switch is bad as the cruise control needs a good working brake switch to engage the cruise.

The problem is that the tail lights, light bulbs get too hot and melt the plastic where the bulb socket goes into the lens assembly. On the lens assembly you will see one to three metal tabs where the socket fits into. Lift up the tab a little bit with a screw driver and place a small amount of either metal or plastic underneath the tab so it will get a good connection. It will fix the problem.

Will your Center High-Mount Stop Light
(CHMSL) illuminate when you depress the brake pedal, but the lower/outer lights will not?
-- Do you have to hold the signal lever in a
certain spot to get the turn signals to flash?
-- Do you have to hold the signal lever in a
certain spot to get the lower/outer brake lights to illuminate?
-- Will the signals work in one direction,
but not the other?
If you answered yes to any of the preceeding
questions, your turn signal switch is likely malfunctioning.

**One more question before we continue: Is
the turn signal lever not "cancelling" (returning to the "off"
position) after you make a turn? If this is the case, you have a broken
"cancelling spring."

Before you begin disassembly of your steering
column, verify the turn signal flasher is not malfunctioning. If your brake lights
work fine, but not the signals (either direction,) then it's likely the flasher is burnt
out. The flasher itself is located underneath the dash near where the steering
column passes through the firewall