Climbs up the center line of bolts up the slab just off the main ledge -- starting with a small indented dish, and staying on or slight left of the 3rd bolt for full value. After the third bolt, go straight back, clipping the bolt slight right (and ignoring the stray bolt to the left -- it is on no climb). A nice couple of friction moves near the bolt, then an easy walk to the anchors in the head wall..

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the left side of the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors.

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook does not exist, but there are several options for a good gear placement (red tri-cam or similar sized nut) at that point which is advised to avoid the ground-fall potential.

Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors.

Bolt line that starts and a oval dish taken out of the otherwise fairly smooth looking slab. Climb the minutely feature slab to the first ledge, from there proceed past the bolt on the right (there are 2 bolts up the next area, climb past the one that is not near a crack, this climb is about friction -- not holds) to chains on the headwall.

Updated: Mon 30th Jul 2012 03:12:52 AM GMT

]]>thecrag.com:1116285722011-05-16T19:55:33ZDavid Gibbshttp://www.thecrag.com/climber/dagibbsDavid Gibbs uploaded a photo to Right of Controverse Controverse › Right of Controverse

A lovely close-bolted climb that is tough at its grade. From the main ledge, climb the slab, then angle left-wards, up the face to a ledge on the right, up onto another ledge to its left, then up to the anchors. (Guide says 8 draws, but I think I used 10.)