Rocky Mountain Club B5

Are you talking about having a spare ECU and swapping that for the chipped one before taking your car to a dealer? Or do you mean swapping your stock ECU for a chipped one from somebody else who is selling theirs?

If the latter, I did that with a guy in Cali and got a smoking deal on my APR chipped ECU. Just make sure the ECU numbers match EXACTLY. The number will be something like 4B0 906 018 BG, depending on your model year, engine and tranny type. Always check with the chip manufacturer for compatibility questions.

Make sure you have the right ecu number first. And it doesn't hurt to check with the manufacturer for compatability. I bought a matching ecu with an APR chip already installed. I had Autosporterks reprogram my chip to 91 octane and one of the employees (brandon) helped install the new ecu. It looks pretty simple and hopefully the only time I need to do that is when i sell the car and sell the ecu seperately. But I have my stock ecu just incase i have to go into the dealer for some sort of warranty work.

Alan, I too think I got a pretty good deal. When you see it on one of the classifieds you have to jump on it. 350 for an ecu and APR chip!

I have been told that even with a matching part number, the ECU has to be reprogrammed to be compatible with the ignition immobilizer. :?

Ah, I forgot about that new-fangled immobilizer thingie. Check with chip manufacturer for sure about that. You could get an APR chip which allows switching between stock and chipped modes. Then just put it in stock mode before going to dealer. I think dealer can only wipe out the chip programming when the ECU is not modified. For example, I think Neuspeed just reprograms the existing chip. Most chip tuners solder a new chip onto the ECU and I doubt the dealer can re-flash that. (I could be wrong)

Quote from: "RobD"

Alan, I too think I got a pretty good deal. When you see it on one of the classifieds you have to jump on it. 350 for an ecu and APR chip!

Mine APR chipped ECU was $150 plus swap of my stock ECU and shipping to Cali both ways. Had to jump on that deal.

I dont own a Passat, but I have two computers for my A4. I own a Wetterauer Chip installed in a stock ECU and the factory stock ECU. I have found that it isn't that much of a bennefit to have two ECU's unless you are under warrenty in which it would work great. I have never had a problem between swapping ECU's. I have a VAG computer plug and full software. There has never been a problem with swapping them as long as I followed the directoins on the Bently CD. It explains all that you have to do. Which includes the best to my memory...1. negative battery disconnect2. unplug ecu3. install new ecu4. connect negative battery5. clear codes. (which I never have any while swapping unless I have a problem)6. Do throttal adaptation... done with VAG computer. This is not required unless its the first time installing the ECU in the car. Basicaly calibrates "DRIVE BY WIRE" unless your Passats dont have that. I am sure they do though.7. Turn off all accessories including AC/ Heater. basically put no load on engine.8. Start car and let run for at least 3 minutes. This is the learning time. This is most important you dont touch anything, gas, heater, AC.... let idle for 3 minutes. Any time the negative battery is disconnected the learning values are erased.."not trouble codes just learning values" they will automatically configure when engine is started, then your good to go....

So in my opionion... just get a new ECU and chip it unless you dont have the money. Then just chip it... Then you can always buy a new ECU "stock" later. I REALLY RECOMMEND the chip version of any 1.8T. There is a HUGE difference. If anybody wants me to show them how to change an ECU of even just give them a ride to see the DIFFERENCE I am talking about then give me a holler. I am down to make it a GTG.

Later Guys... Questions hit me up, I have been offered jobs at McDonald for mechanic duties. So I will answer any problem I know and I will direct you if I dont to a good mechanic or dealer.

I have been told that even with a matching part number, the ECU has to be reprogrammed to be compatible with the ignition immobilizer.

Sorry for the confusion but I should have stated that my chip was reprogrammed from a 93 octane program(east coat fuel) to a 91 octane program. This was to minimize any detonation problems.

And yes we had to deal with the immobilizer issue. The Autosportwerks guy (brandon) had to download a program from APR to recognize my stock ecu (had to re-install stock ecu to do this) security code and then put the chipped ecu in. Once done the new ecu was recognized and the engine would start.

Thank you for the advice and help guy’s. Now for the rest of the story….

Got the mail on Sat., box was there, excitement was welling up from with in my soul, finally it is here! Then I open the box, look at the ECU and joy turned to rage with one look at the part number. The ECU is for a 2000 Jetta, made in Mexico to boot… :twisted: I let out a few choice words and left the house headed for my office to get it straightened out.

I send a scathing e-mail to the seller demanding he do all things necessary to rectify his mistake. I have not completed the details, but the correct ECU is on is way to me today. Apparently he mail two ECU’s on the same day to different people and simply got the shipping label’s mixed up.

So the long and short of it is – I have a ECU on the way – again. I hope it is here in time for the BBQ on Saturday, so I can mess around with it. Otherwise, I will be available for other people’s projects, as I will have none of my own. :roll:

Here's one bit of info that has been left out of all the help given so far.

To access the rear most screw that holds the black box cover on you have to turn the ignition on to run and turn on your wipers. You hood must be closed during this time or the wiper arm wil scratch the crap out of the rear edge of the hood. Remember this when you are closing everything up. Once the wiper reaches the middle of the window, pull the key out. Obviously you need to do this before you do anything else.

Why do you need to do this? Simple, because there is a little black plug that gets popped out of the black cover piece benieth the wiper arms. Once the little plug has been removed you can then use a 6 inch long 1/4" extrention and a 10mm socket to reach that last screw. Then you can fully remove the cover without bending it and making it look crappy.

Now, remove the stock ECU, plug in the chipped ECU. Secure the ECU and the cover with all the screws, except for that rear most screw. Just leave it out. It's a PITA to say the least and it doesn't hurt anything if it's left out. You can't even see it without going out of your way to see it. Once the ECU cover is in place, reconnect the negative battery terminal and take all of your tools out of the engine bay area and close the hood. Make sure you close the hood before you stick the keys back into the ignition. Remember you wiper arm is still in the up position and if the hood isn't closed, the hood WILL get scratched on that rear edge.

Once the hood is closed, insert the key into the ignition, turn the key to the run only possision without starting the car. Let it sit like that for 3 minutes. Then after that, start the engine. Like BlackA4 said, make sure the A/C and all accessories are turned off first though. Let it idle for a few minutes. Then slowly pull out of the garage and drive carefully. You should feel a big difference right away. Though after a few days the car will feel stronger. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I finally received the correct ECU and with the help of Matt (Black A4) and his Vag-Com I swapped out the stock ECU for the one I plan to have chipped. The swap was easy but the 2nd ECU is not compatible with the immobilizer in the car. :cry:

We attempted to re-program the 2nd ECU to match the original, but I need to get a few numbers and procedures from the eBahn software to get the job done. Once I am able to get the ECU’s to match, that car should start and then I will be in business.

Thanks again for your help Matt. Next time do not run off to hockey so I can buy you a beer. :wink:

eBahn is a division of Bentley Publishers that makes a CD-ROM software that takes the place of the book. In addition to the repair information it also gives you all the error codes info and how to correct the problems associated with the error code.

When you use it in addition to the vag-com software, you can do much more with your car.

I am so lucky that just the b5.5 has the immobilizer issue. Technology is such a PITA :twisted: