I much prefer McLeod and Ram for clutches and flywheels. A slightly lighter weight steel billet flywheel isn't a bad idea.

Saw you have to get a new race-spec joint; if a stiff clutch pedal is an issue - look at the Novak external slave cyl setup. I like it a lot better than the inside-the-housing kits; if you can fit it in place

Use the McLeod adjustable Throw Out Bearing if a standard one won't work.

You DON'T want a super aggressive clutch; especially if you are going to keep the 10-spline input for your M20. As long as you don't physically rip the friction material off the disc; even a Luk 'Rep Set' from Napa is fine

Make sure your pilot bushing is non magnetic

Make sure your yoke doesn't have excessive runout, or machining marks along the barrel OD

Run 1-QUART, yes I said 1-QUART of Brad Penn 'Classic Gear Oil' 80w90 in the "munchie", and have fun!

Just a note on your balancer. For that combo I wouldn't even consider a stock unit. Have you seen the damage one can cause when it comes apart? A little money now will save you tons down the road. Get a high quality SFI damper. ATI, Rattler, Innovators West, just to name a few......

I have no direct experience with the Summit flywheels. I'd want to look at their surface finish; I've seen some flywheels that weren't blanchard ground, just turned with a "record player groove" on a lathe by the looks of it. I see no reason NOT to use that FW if it looks good and doesn't exhibit too much runout once installed. If its not up to par, you'll have to address those issues.
I have no direct experience with Zoom either, although I assume (hopefully Im wrong) that they're just a re-brander of Valeo/Luk/Sachs much like the entry level Centerforce is. Nothing intrinsically wrong with that. I've had plenty of customers run the Luk "Rep Set" clutches, albeit with less power and RPM than you.
Something a clutch racer might answer: I do have customers that prefer the 3-finger style because they're afraid of the stories of the long-style 'sticking' at high RPM. Not sure if that condition still exists or not, but it bears becoming educated about.
NOW; personally, I'd be slightly more concerned about your almighty mini-mouse ripping the friction material off the disc if you really let it fly. You're no green horn, if its worth the risk...run the cheap clutch.

For Gods sake man I've answered your damper question for a month of Sundays....You have a LOT of money and effort tied up in your rotating assembly. At 8,000rpm sh*t gets real in a hurry. You pitch that cheapass damper ring and it rips a hole in your hood, or blows out the grill or god forbid gets out from under the car and hits another car....it'll cost you way more than the Powerbond, Ati etc. Not to mention if it hurts the crank or by becoming unbalanced (like most of us) it hurts your spacer bearings.

autogear wrote: I do have customers that prefer the 3-finger style because they're afraid of the stories of the long-style 'sticking' at high RPM.

Many, many years ago I knew a guy who would use large rubber bands to attach his foot to the clutch pedal when street racing, so he could pull it back off the floor.
Scared the shit out of me even then. I was already a veteran of one clutch explosion.

Is there a reasonably priced, "light-weight", 11" steel SFI approved flywheel out there? (A lot lighter than the 30 pounder's I see listed.)...

I have backed off here and want to say that I will probably 8,000 rpm my 325" engine (5) times and then just putz around town with it, barking my tires every so often!

Heck, I am too old ta get ta, "romping and a stomping", like I did as a kid!

BUI I will install a scatter-shield!

I am not even going to try to get my car on a strip because I won't have all of the needed safety stuff on it except for the (2) SFI parts I am talking about here, a scatter-shield, and a driveshaft loop.

IF I LIVE LONG ENOUGH TO PUT EVERYTHING TOGETHER??

And I haven't even lit off my new 496" engine that is in my car now, so go figure???? I must be a, "dumb SOB", is all....