Suites Trastevere

One of those friendly neighbourhood b&bs that garners fierce loyalty, Suites Trastevere is an excellent budget choice deep in the funky Trastevere district, with one-of-a-kind trompe l'oeil décor, easy access to public transportation, and a gregarious host who is the embodiment of warm Roman hospitality.

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Rooms from

£

39

per night

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Adults

Children

Ages of children

Airport

Location

7/10

Trastevere is known for its bustling restaurant scene and nightlife, but the epicentre of the local movida is near the banks of the Tiber River on the neighbourhood's northern edge. Suites Trastevere, however, is on the Viale Trastevere thoroughfare in the southern reaches where bohemian fades into residential. Fortunately, tram 8 stops just outside the building, whisking you back to the river in less than 10 minutes, and beyond into Rome's historic centre and main Piazza Venezia in just a few minutes more.

Style & character

8/10

Owner and host Marco Caroselli could have taken the easy route, whitewashing his homey b&b with a thick coat of paint and furnishing the rooms with functional but bland Ikea-style pieces. Instead, he boldly had each guest room decorated from floor to ceiling in trompe l'oeil scenes of Roman landmarks, a design choice that might have veered into kitsch were it not for the deft hand and muted palette of artist Stefania Savioli.

It may not be your style, but the earnest rendering and unmistakable sense of place is delightfully unique. The bright, contemporary communal kitchen and corridors are much less Baroque, with wall paintings limited to aphorisms celebrating the glory of Rome (and good coffee).

Service & facilities

7/10

The hospitality here centres around Marco, the one-man owner, manager, and concierge who genuinely loves interacting with guests. In addition to insider tips and advice, he can arrange for tours and transfers, recommend restaurants, provide tram tickets, or simply settle in for a long chat about his beloved city of Rome in the communal kitchen.

He is sometimes spread thin – in addition to Trastevere, he also owns equally charming b&bs near St. Peter's and Piazza del Popolo – but there is an easy self-check-in procedure when he's away, and the additional staff on duty 8am to 3pm to serve breakfast or greet guests in the afternoon are equally friendly. The b&b also has a book exchange corner and a selection of printed guides and magazines about Rome.

Wi-Fi

Rooms

8/10

Despite the b&b's name, its five bedrooms are not actually suites, though they are spacious.The wow-factor of the custom frescoed decorations in the rooms, each named and themed for a famous Roman landmark, overshadows that small niggle. My favourite is the Pantheon suite, its ceiling painted to look like the inside of the iconic dome with the central oculus letting in a circle of ersatz blue sky.

There are a number of extra amenities not always found in Rome's b&bs, including soundproof windows, air-conditioning, memory foam pillows, and a minibar. Bathrooms are generously sized and have been newly renovated, with glass-enclosed showers and new fixtures.

Food & drink

7/10

Breakfast is served at the communal table in the kitchen and includes a continental selection of pastries, tarts, bread, cheese, cold cuts, and made-to-order coffee drinks. The kitchen is always open, and guests are welcome to use the kettle and coffee machine and help themselves to biscuits all day.

Value for money

9/10

Double rooms from €59 (£51) in low season; and from €109 (£94) in high season. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.

Access for guests with disabilities?

Not suitable.

Family-friendly?

Yes, there is large triple room and the access to the kitchen is a bonus when travelling with children.