Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

It has to do with whether or not the zone valves on the sprinkler system are compatible with modern controllers. Imperial made good valves, with solenoids that happened to draw about three times as much power as a standard solenoid of today. Nearly all modern controllers will perceive a perfectly good Imperial solenoid as being a short circuit, and will shut down the zone, giving you an error message on the controller display.

So, if you have no idea of where the zone valves are, to check on this, you get technical, like any good NCE alumnus would. You get a multimeter capable of reading AC current, and see what the solenoids in your system are actually drawing.

So, if you have no idea of where the zone valves are, to check on this, you get technical, like any good NCE alumnus would. You get a multimeter capable of reading AC current, and see what the solenoids in your system are actually drawing.

That's funny. Unfortunately I only took enough EE courses to meet the graduation reqmts for my curriculum. And we're talking over 20 years ago. I'm thinking at this point that this is definitely not a DIY job for someone like me.

So I'm finally getting back around to this, but as a first measure (replacing the timer would be the last), I was hoping that I could get some advice on rewiring my zones.

I have 5 zones (out of 6) in use on my Imperial Valet. I took apart the timer and all the wiring yesterday (labeling each wire) and drew a block diagram (which I've posted below) to help me formulate my question.

In the diagram (I omitted the power cable coming into the panel) I have two sets of zone cables, each containing 4 wires in use (out of 6). The wire colors in the diagram represent the actual colors of the wires being used.

In the first set I see a wire connected to Zone 1, Zone 2, Master Controller, and Common (tied in with Common from second set).

In the second set I see a wire connected to Zone 3, Zone 4, Zone 5, and Common (tied in with Common from first set).

My 1st question is....can I swap Zone 1 with Zone 5, and Zone 2 with Zone 4? I'd prefer my backyard to get wet first, then my front yard, not the opposite which is currently what it is. Or is this not possible because of the master valve? Please forgive me, I don't understand the concept of a master valve, nor why I have a connection to it via the same cable set that controls Zone 1 and Zone 2.

My 2nd question is a followup to my earlier posts in November. Now that I have all the wiring exposed, can anyone tell me the simplest way to determine what current my solenoids are drawing. I have a multimeter, and I know how to use basic functions on it, just need to know what specifically I need to do measure the current. Or do I need to get the clamp-around ammeter that was suggested?

Current is read by an AC ammeter. It happens that AC amps is not a function found on cheaper multimeters. Old-time equipment from the days of vacuum tubes will read AC amps, in case you have access to same.

Thanks again for the info. At least I know I can move my zones around.

Why is it that I have two zone cables and not one? Is it because there weren't enough wires in one cable? If there is only one master valve and five zone valves, I have to believe that those five zone valves are connected to the master value in a single underground box, and therefore both of those cables run to the same location underground. I can't possibly imagine where on my property this box would be located.

Regarding the ammeter, how would I measure the current? Would I connect the ammeter leads in series (with one lead connected to the zone wire from outside and the other lead connected to the zone wire from the timer, effectively completing the circuit when the zone is activated via the dial)? What am I looking for in terms of a reading?