A whole blog post on getting lowered off the end of the rope and no reflection on htf it happened? Just "the route must have been a little long, the rope i borrowed must have been a little short and neither of us noticed it slip through the device"? Meh. Not even an acknowledgement of "we were a pair of unthinking idiots" - who doesn't keep an eye on the pile of rope when you are lowering someone down a route that has even the remotest chance of being long enough to run out of rope? Or check the length of your rope?

Yeah, I think his overall attitude in the blog post is thinking positively about how to move on with his injury rather than dwell on it... and I'm sure he's throbbingly aware of how silly he was. Top bloke, top climber.

On 4/10/2012 Dawesy85 wrote:>Yeah, I think his overall attitude in the blog post is thinking positively>about how to move on with his injury rather than dwell on it... and I'm>sure he's throbbingly aware of how silly he was. Top bloke, top climber.

I dunno, I'm tempted to repeat Damo's "enough of this cancer is a gift bullshit!" Really ... "it was almost fingerboard season, and now I can get into my fingerstrength training" ....

I think reflection on how accidents happen is kinda important. And when you are a well known, influential climber who promotes his coaching and advice, it's even more important when you post about having a stupid accident, that you use it to reflect on what happened and encourage other people to do stuff to prevent it happening to them. Otherwise people might just think it's normal, that everybody has stupid accidents, even very experienced and capable climbers, and that's ok. Actually, stupid accidents aren't ok. they are people getting f---ed up for dumb, avoidable reasons and talking about them might just help other people avoid them, rather then pretending they are normal. I think he's being a numpty about it in that blog.

I started out thinking you were being a bit harsh on the guy, but you do make a good point about not just accepting human error. The simple process of both climbers tying in (as should be taught to beginners) would eliminate this possibility. Or if you're a sport climber who doesn't climb multipitch, at least leave the rope tied to the rope bag.

I haven't read the blog, but I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that he was stupid. Complacent maybe, but he didn't make a conscious decision to use a short rope. If he did it again, then that would be stupid!

Maybe Dave's pride is a bit bruised and he's passing on the lessons he learnt under the alias of Taylor152???

On 3/10/2012 Taylor152 wrote:>Here are some tips which should be keep in mind when you like to climbing>mountains. >>Check Knots,>Pay Attention>Check Harnesses,>Wear a Helmet,>Pay Attention>

The belayer should have noticed the end of the rope was close. With Dave up the route unaware the rope was short, the belayer f%#ked up. The belayer is probably one of his mates. His mate probably feels terrible that he dropped his friend and injured him. Dave is probably not banging on about his mate's mistake so as to not make his mate feel any worse than he already does.

I'd rather climbers work things out for themselves rather than rely on yet another blog sermon.

On 3/10/2012 ZZZZZZZZZZZ wrote:>Wow what a sad little bunch critics. I'm glad that you're all as accomplished>as Dave. Criticising the man's pants and head size?

What are you talking about? I'm even more impressed with McCloud's climbing now, knowing that he tows that huge melon up all his ascents!

By the way, Climbaholic wins some sort of prize for being the only person so far to correctly identify that the cause of the acco was failure to tie a knot in the end of the rope. Watching the pile of rope, Wendy?..........wtf? I'm trying to remember how many experienced and good climbers I know who would've avoided serious injury by putting a knot in the rope. It's either 4 or 5 (including 2 accidents involving spinal fractures)