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position seco꾦莜 prod twiste꾦 buttonh꾦 dura꾦le loap꾦 Working a third to Inck the uces a h Sewing sleeve into cut armhole row oj I-cord trim e, ands꾦莜 over the into le edge. stitches she flat piece A.fI꾦莜㭨 snipping half a stitch oj each color in her coat, Swansen k-nits an I-cord welt picked up jrom the u light. As you get to each loop, secure it with a twist, working 3rd I-cord behind and into twist (photo at left, above). down has Facing (inside) pper alon꾦 lowe꾦 iden open as woik꾦 and the edge oj the -edge stitches, w ing it ing. She she goes, Attaching sleeves: Sew in sleeves from right side (be careful not to catch knit-in facing). I use mattress stitch, inserting needle 1 to 11/2 vertical rows inside cut edge on body, going up slightly and then inserting needle into sleeve just behind purl ridge (top drawing at left). Tack facing down over cut edge on inside. Use mattress st to attach sleeve 1 to 1'h vertical sts from cut edge on armhole. Sew on edge of purl st at sleeve top. Picking up afterthought pocket stitches Upper edge Afterthought pockets: This is a Zimmermann "unvention" that I canied into a previously unexplored area-cutting into a color pattern. While snipping into your knit fabric to make a pocket opening may seem a bit dangerous, you'll be surprised at how safe and easy this pocket is to make. Try on coat to see where you want pock- ets to be. Use a safety pin to mark center of desired pocket opening. Mark minor stitch of same round for other pocket. Snip one side of marked stitch, and unravel for approximately 2% in. in either direction. Since there are two interlocking colors in each round, you must also snip half a stitch of second color and unravel it in both directions. You'll find the results somewhat alarming. Along lower edge Lower edge Snip one thread per color at center of opening, and pick sts back to pocket edges. Pick up lower sts. Pick up same number of sts on upper edge, taking visible sts and inserting needle in body fabric above floats, where no sts show. OctoberlNove mbe stitches waiting to be picked up, but along top edge you'll see an occasional recognizable stitch and loops of each color. Pick up lower-edge stitches and count them. Then pick up same number of "stitches" from top edge, doing the best you can. Where there are no apparent stitches, pick up from fabric of body (bottom drawing at left). Try it on a swatch first. I worked two rows of I -cord will r 1989 be a neat row of Final cut flap inside toward body, tuck machine stitching underneath, and sew flap down. I gave the shoulder seam extra firmness touc by working a very tight I-cord on the inside from shoulder to shoulder to ensure that there would be no sagging. Purchased or knit shoulder pads are optional. Belt and belt loop But for a wider belt, try Elizabeth Zimmermann's I-c wool fonvard, sl last 3 sts p-wise, turn. Repeat from more. You'll have a belt with a built-in I-cord on each side of a single garter stitch. Increase number of center garter stitches for a wider belt. Carve your toggle buttons from a length ord • of dowel; then stain them to match your coat (you can also buy toggles from me).O Meg Swansen of Pittsville, WI, is a knitwear designer, a video producer, the owner of Schoolhouse Press, and the daughter of Elizabeth the coat is ZimmeTmann. A video available from her for $28.50 ppd. on mak ing 49 until you can't stand it anys work well in I-cord. belt: Cast on 7 sts. "K4, bring the pocket lining onto sews it inside the coat. cast-off across lower stitches in dark and medium yarns. With dark yarn and small DPN's, work flat as pocket lining back and forth in stockinette stitch on top stitches for 4 or 5 rows, keeping 4 edge sts on each side in garter stitch to prevent curling. Increase at beginning of each row until pocket flap is nice and wide. Knit to desired depth. Bind off and sew sides and lower edge down inside coat (photo at right, above). This trick yields a small, neat pocket opening with a nice, roomy interior. Weave in snipped threads. hes: To neaten cut front edges, fold the a