Best of 2001: Best Big Omelet

The menu calls them "Three-Egg Omeletes," but it's hard to believe. The chicken that laid three eggs large enough to compose these monsters would have to be a monster itself, a giant fowl straight out of "The Far Side." As for regular, nonmonstrous eggs, you'd think it would take four or five to make this omelet, and there have been whisperings of six. The California ($6.95) is the champion, a great blanket of egg wrapped around a handful of jack cheese, scads of bacon, onions, olives, and a slightly spicy mound of guacamole. Together with potatoes (try the Monterey potato cakes) and toast, it forms a breakfast that makes lunch an afterthought, if not an impossibility.