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By the middle of the day, on the 28th, we arrived at Monte
Video, having been two days and a half on the road. The
country for the whole way was of a very uniform character,
some parts being rather more rocky and hilly than near
the Plata. Not far from Monte Video we passed through
the village of Las Pietras, so named from some large rounded
masses of syenite. Its appearance was rather pretty. In this
country a few fig-trees round a group of houses, and a site elevated a hundred feet above the general level, ought always to be
called picturesque.

During the last six months I have had an opportunity of seeing
a little of the character of the inhabitants of these provinces.
The Gauchos, or countrymen, are very superior to those who
reside in the towns. The Gaucho is invariably most obliging,
polite, and hospitable: I did not meet with even one instance of
rudeness or inhospitality. He is modest, both respecting himself
and country, but at the same time a spirited, bold fellow. On
the other hand, many robberies are committed, and there is much
bloodshed: the habit of constantly wearing the knife is the chief
cause of the latter. It is lamentable to hear how many lives are
lost in trifling quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to mark
the face of his adversary by slashing his nose or eyes; as is often
attested by deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies are a
natural consequence of universal gambling, much drinking, and
extreme indolence. At Mercedes I asked two men why they
did not work. One gravely said the days were too long; the
other that he was too poor. The number of horses and the
profusion of food are the destruction of all industry. Moreover,
there are so many feast-days; and again, nothing can succeed
without it be begun when the moon is on the increase; so that
half the month is lost from these two causes.

Police and justice are quite inefficient. If a man who is poor
commits murder and is taken, he will be imprisoned, and perhaps
even shot; but if he is rich and has friends, he may rely on it no
very severe consequence will ensue. It is curious that the most
respectable inhabitants of the country invariably assist a murderer
to escape: they seem to think that the individual sins against the
government, and not against the people. A traveller has no pro-