Steve, I patterned it after a federal style game table that hinged a single rear leg. I see now that most of the game tables do hinge both rear legs. I didn’t really think about it until it was done.

It is a weak spot in the design, especially with the heavy mahogany top(s), the single spindly rear leg, and the small hinge. The hinge plays a big role in the stability equation.

I may just take it apart and hinge both rear legs, using two heavy duty brass hinges for each leg. The extension of the legs would be a bit less than the front legs, but the overall result should be more stable.

Taking it apart is a small task. I built and finished each subassembly (tops, legs, curved sections, back boards) and pocket screwed the whole thing together. Not a drop of glue (or proper joinery) anywhere!

-- "The unexpected, when it happens, generally happens when you least expect it."

Last night I took a closer look at my card table with the one swinging gateleg. My table is based on the article in FWW issue #59, “Federal Card Table” by Michael Dunbar. That table in turn is based on a piece from the period, thought to be from Baltimore. The article indicates that the “look” of the table when open was unimportant as the open table was usually draped with a cloth when used for games. Cards would otherwise go flying across the polished mahogany surface!

The normal tendency is to open the swinging leg to 90 degrees before lowering the table on it, but the best overall stability occurs when the swinging leg is open about 45 to 60 degrees. This smaller angle provides minimal spacing between leg supports. Overall, I’m happy with the feel of the open table, so I’ll leave mine like it is.

-- "The unexpected, when it happens, generally happens when you least expect it."