Good cod! That's a tasty fish chowder

By America's Test Kitchen

Posted:
08/31/2018 07:36:03 AM EDT

(AP PHOTO)

It may not be soup weather out there, but it's never too hot for chowder, and this fish chowder honors its simple roots by showcasing moist, tender morsels of fish in a delicate broth. Searching for a route to fresher, cleaner flavors, we got a bonus: shorter cooking time.

We started by gently poaching meaty cod in water flavored with salt pork, onions and herbs, creating a quick fish stock and eliminating any chance of overcooking the fish. We added whole milk to this stock, as opposed to other rich dairy like half-and-half and heavy cream, to keep the chowder light and fresh-tasting and to preserve the flavor of the cod.

A tablespoon of cornstarch whisked into the milk before adding it to the pot coated its proteins, preventing it from curdling as the soup simmered. To keep the salt-pork flavor from becoming overbearing, we left it in two large chunks that didn't produce as much browning, and used butter to sweat the onions. Haddock, or other flaky white fish, may be substituted for cod.

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