Consumer Demand Forces `Real' Mustard To Branch Out

The players are a yuppie office worker (male) who is ordering lunch and a feisty cafeteria sandwich maker (female) whose true career calling appears to be stage and screen.

We begin when the man asks for a turkey and swiss on rye with mustard.

``What kind of mustard?''

``Real mustard,'' he answers.

The cafeteria diva instinctively reaches for the squirt bottle of bright yellow picnic mustard and is poised to make attractive squiggles on the rye.

``No!'' the yuppie screams. ``I meant real mustard -- Dijon.''

``Hold it now,'' Mrs. Mustard says, brandishing a mean, rubber-gloved hand (sanitation is important to this prominent Hartford business). ``When you were a kid what kind of mustard did your mom have in the house?''

``French's,'' the yuppie replies.

``And what kind of mustard did you always have on your hot dogs?'' she asks.

``The yellow kind,'' he offers.

``And what kind of mustard did you eat until you went away to college and got all fancy?'' she demands.

``Uh, ummm . . .''

``Well then,'' she says proudly, taking his stammer for defeat, ``this is the real mustard. If you want that dark Dijon then you say Dijon!''

She picks up the Dijon, makes attractive squiggles on the rye and hands the man his sandwich. But before he can slink away to the tables bolted to the cafeteria floor of the sanitary Hartford business, she gets off one last salvo: ``And don't be saying nothin' bad about yellow mustard!''

Case closed. Scene over

Amen!

And, we should add, thank heaven for yellow mustard.

As the country gets ready to fire up its backyard grills for the official start of summer this weekend, our attention turns to the condiment of choice for any picnic or barbecue. Yellow mustard.

Just try to imagine a hot dog or burger without that familiar smear of school-bus-yellow mustard. Kindly name a potato salad or macaroni salad that has not been enlivened by a healthy squirt of yellow mustard.

And now, French's -- the proud, waving flagbearer of bright yellow mustard allegiance -- has gone, like our yuppie friend, down that inevitable Dijon road. Last year at this time, French's (which has been making the classic yellow mustard since 1904) came out with Mild Dijon, a tame, Americanized version of the varied, often biting Dijons on the market. French's Dijon-style mustard joins its Classic Yellow and Hearty Deli (grain mustard) in the most recognized line of mustard in America.

To further compete with changing mustard preferences, French's is now launching Honey Mustard, a new, honey-sweetened mustard that looks suspiciously Dijon colored. Look for the honey version to hit the store shelves in time for Memorial Day festivities.

While mustard preferences are based on taste and tradition, one must wonder if we're getting to the point of multi-mustard saturation. Some have found a way to work many mustards in their lives: yellow for hot dogs, Dijon for salad dressings and vinaigrettes, whole-grain mustards for potato salads, specialty sandwiches and grilled sausages.

Still, as we dive into summer, maybe it's time to think about what kind of world this would be without that familiar bright yellow bottle. Little squeeze anyone?

The following recipes -- and many others -- can be found on French's mustard Web site at www.bender-hammerling.com (click on mustard). Where mustard is called for, you may use any flavor of French's.

* Grill burgers over high heat 15 minutes or until no longer pink in center. If desired, top burgers with sliced Monterey Jack cheese and grilled pepper rings. Serve on buns with additional mustard. Makes 4 burgers.

Gourmet Deli Potato & Pea Salad

1-1/2 pounds small red potatoes, scrubbed and quartered

1/2 lb. sugar snap or snow peas, trimmed

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/3 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise or plain non-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons French's mustard

2 teaspoons dried dill weed

1 clove garlic, minced

* Cook potatoes in boiling water 15 minutes or until tender. Rinse with cold water and drain. Place potatoes in large bowl, add vegetables and dill.