Cook Penne in boiling salted water according to package directions until al dente. Drain.In a large pan, heat oil and sauté onions, zucchini, and bell peppers for 2-3 minutes. Add ham and sauté briefly. Toss with penne and parsley, and season to taste with paprika, salt, and pepper. Cut Camembert into ¼ inch cubes.Preheat oven to 375 degrees, Transfer half the pasta to a lightly-oiled casserole dish. Sprinkle half the Camembert over the top. Cover with remaining pasta and a second layer of Camembert.In a Bowl, whisk together eggs, cream, and milk. Season to taste with salt and pepper and pour over the casserole. Bake for 35-40 minutes. Garnish with basil leaves and serve.

Last fall, I accosted the cheese expert at the fancy-pants grocery while she peeled away the rind of what appeared to be an enormous Parmeggiano-Reggiano. In her opinion, the Yellow Buck Camembert could not, and should not be missed. Well, she was RIGHT. She also warned me that it constantly sold out once the store starts to carry it and recommended that I buy two wheels of it while they were readily available. I thought she was nuts. Are people that crazy about the Yellow Buck? Yes, they are. And rightly so. I am now one of “those” people.

The Marin Cheese Company (MCC) prices this cheese around $10.00 per wheel, for 16 oz. Do not be fooled. When I was in my fall cheese-buying frenzy, I found Bries and Camemberts – OK ones – for anywhere up to $20 per lb. They could not hold a candle to the Yellow Buck.

You will adore the tang of it. Yes, yes, any Camembert can be creamy, and smooth. They can handle sitting next to banal crackers and cold cuts at business luncheons and the like. But that’s not why you would buy this cheese. It is a cheese that will beat up even something terribly tough and aggressive, like Ryvita. Yes, even against that, the Yellow Buck will prevail.

And, may the heavens help you should you ever melt the Yellow Buck. Once it is fully ripened, it does not require much contact with heat to become downright irresistible. Just try putting small cubes of it on top of a potato pancake (here’s one recipe for latke) along with some Worcestershire sauce (one of my favorite preps).

So, just get it, let it ripen, and dig in. Yes, it will blow your mind.

P.S. Those of you concerned with the treatment of animals in food production, note that this product is rennetless (hence, no rBST). Also, the MCC donates proceeds from many of its varietal cheeses, including the Yellow Buck Camembert, to the Marine Mammal Center.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Succession of award-winning company to French artisan cheesemaking group

Petaluma, CA, April 26, 2011 –Marin French Cheese Company and Rians today announce that they have entered into a final agreement in which the 146-year-old California cheese company will be acquired by Rians, a family-owned French cheese company. The purchase agreement is subject to customary closing conditions and the transaction is expected to be completed in May 2011.

Jim Boyce, owner of Marin French Cheese since 1998, had considered an alliance prior to his untimely death in September of 2010. He had met with potential partners, domestic and foreign cheese producers, during the past few years searching for the perfect match to continue the spirit and philosophy he created during his ownership. Kris Otis, Boyce’s wife, continued Jim’s search along with the company’s board of directors, carefully reviewing options prior to making this final decision. “Jim met several years ago with Hugues Triballat to forge this partnership,” says Ms. Otis, “The Board and I feel that Rians understands and will preserve Jim’s vision.”

Details of the acquisition include completion of expansion plans for the cheese plant and aging facilities; ongoing support of community projects; stewardship of the company’s 700 acres of Marin County land, including public picnic areas and the retail store; and retention of all members of the Marin French staff. Longtime Marin French manager, Maxx Sherman, will transition to a new role as Director of National Sales. “Marin French’s cheese making know-how, care of the employees, preservation of the terroir and consideration for the generations of people who love to visit ‘the Cheese Factory’, will be in good hands with Rians,” Otis adds.

In 2006 Rians purchased neighboring Sonoma artisan goat cheese producer, Laura Chenel’s Chèvre and recently completed building a new state-of-the-art creamery. Marie Lesoudier, General Manager of Laura Chenel’s Chèvre will oversee all activities at Marin French Cheese Company. “While we have created a tremendous partnership, each company’s operations will remain separate,” says Lesoudier. “Both companies will share their expertise in production, marketing and distribution in order to provide consumers the finest hand-made artisan cheeses from Northern California.”

Over the years, Marin French soared to international acclaim for its Triple Creme Brie while accumulating record awards nationally for its line of traditional French-style and American original soft-ripening cheeses. Rians, also known as Laiteries H. Triballat, is a family-owned French artisan cheese company operating 15 creameries in France, Argentina, Spain and the U.S. Rians strategy is to select the highest quality producers of authentic artisan products who will benefit from their expertise and support. “We are honored to continue the work started by the Thompson Family in 1865 and perpetuated by Jim Boyce,” says Hugues Triballat, Rians Chief Executive Officer. “We respect Marin French’s traditions and fine cheesemaking and will preserve the regional identity of the brand, while blending in our history and expertise to grow the company.”

***

Rians is the brand identity of Laiteries H. Triballat, a family-owned French company with a portfolio of artisan cheese plants making AOP (appellation) cheeses such as Epoisse, Langres, Selles-Sur-Cher, Crottin de Chavignol, and Rocamadour. Hubert Triballat, the company’s founder, began making cheese in Rians, a small village in the Sancerre region of central France, in 1952. Today, Laiteries H. Triballat is a leader in specialty cheeses in Europe and the United States. The Triballat family is known for investing in the future of the specialty cheese industry while preserving the fine cheesemaking traditions of the past.

Marin French Cheese Company is the oldest cheese manufacturer in the USA and a unique part of American history. Known by locals as The Cheese Factory and by its brand name, Rouge et Noir, Marin French has produced hand-crafted artisan soft-ripened cheese since 1865. Rouge et Noir cheeses are based on French and European varieties but reflect the characteristics of Northern California, producing their own regional styles, including original California Brie and Camembert along with other award-winning cheeses.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

I don't know where Jim was born, but he once told me that he grew up on a farm in Minnesota, and that he had lived in California and in Florida for many years. I knew that he owned an organic cattle ranch in Nevada and a feed mill further north, he had also been in the hotel business. He loved film and all the arts and was very much a modern day renaissance man. But when I would ask him about the Cheese Factory his eyes just sparkled and we would talk ......

It was about 8 years ago at ACS that we met, and from that time on we were good friends. We enjoyed the competition of teasing each other in the most unusual ways. One example would be when he took a picture of himself and my (Carr Valley) sales manager in the French Marin Booth at a trade show and emailed it to me bragging that he had just hired her! This lead to me putting a Carr Valley sign in front of his booth and taking my picture with Max (his sales manager).

There was also the 100 year club we created- French Marin Cheese 1843, my family 1883, and Joe Widmer, because Joe only had 75 years ..... we loaned him 25 so he could join. We called a meeting of the club whenever we saw each other and of course raised and lowered the dues as needed. If two members were together we would call the third on the phone and hold the meetings- I think Joe and I will continue the tradition of the meetings and raise a glass or two, and a motion and a second to honor Jim in the 100 year club.

Jim was a great competitor....One year at ACS he was upset with the judging and vowed that he would not enter any cheeses in the competition the following year. A few weeks before the deadline, I called him to see if he was still firm on not entering. When he continued to say he was not entering, I said "Good! Jim, this may just be the year Carr Valley beats California!" He changed his mind and entered more and won more than ever before, and I was glad he did.

Jim and Kris and Lisa and I, got to spend 4 days together at the World Cheese Contest 2009 in the Canary Islands. We had an amazing time together, Tapas, drinks, walking on the beach, driving through the mountains. At the competition itself, French Marin won 1st place Gold, that evening. We were all thrilled for Jim, it was a great celebration. We never thought those would be our last best days together.

Whenever or wherever, I always sought Jim out. For the cheese industry it is important to note, that he had saved the oldest cheese plant in the country from ruin and made it into a world champion. In my eyes Jim was a champion, a man of honor, confidence, humor and finesse. Last time we spoke, I had called him from ACS in Seattle, we spoke for 10 minutes and I told him we missed him and wished him the best. Max told me he was still running the Cheese factory from home and was dealing with issues even the day before he passed.

It is my hope that I will someday live up to the Jim Boyce standard. A real champion.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

I have been asked this for many years and I always say no, because I think that it is a violation of my cheese ethics to freeze cheese.

So I finally tried it with several of our brie and camembert cheeses. I kept the cheeses in the freezer for two weeks. To my surprise, and frankly, my dismay they were all perfectly ripe when I defrosted them.

As I just noted, I was terribly disappointed when I defrosted them on Tuesday, two weeks after freezing them. They were all as perfect as the day that I froze them. One exception was the Le Petit Bleu; it became a bit grainy but the flavor was fine.

So yes, you can freeze brie and camembert. I checked them again 4 days later after defrosting and they tasted fine. Please don't ask me to see what happens if you freeze them twice!

And even though our experiment was a success, I still recommend enjoying our cheeses when they are ripe which occurs around 28 days prior to the "Best Buy" date. My favorite time is between 21 to 15 days prior to the "Best Buy" Date.

1. Place the dried mushrooms in a measuring jug, add 300ml ½ pt hot stock and leave the mushrooms to soak for 15mins.

2. Melt half the butter in a large pan, add the mushrooms and cook over a high heat for 3mins until the mushrooms are golden. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

3. Add the remaining butter to the pan, add the onion and sauté for 4mins until soft. Add the garlic and rice and cook for a further 30seconds, stirring so the grains become coated in butter. Add the wine and cook, stirring until the liquid has evaporated.

4. Drain the liquid from the soaked mushrooms and add to the stock. Chop the mushrooms. Add a ladleful of the hot stock to the rice, and cook gently, stirring occasionally until the liquid has been absorbed. Continue adding the stock and cooking the rice until it becomes creamy and tender - this takes about 20-25mins.

5. Stir in half the cooked mushrooms, the chopped dried mushrooms and half the parmesan. Season to taste. Now transfer to a shallow dish and leave to cool completely.

6. When cold, divide the mixture into 4 then use wet hands to shape each quarter into a round, place a piece of cheese in the centre of the round, then shape the rice around it so that it is buried in the centre of the cake. Place on a baking parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat to make four cakes in the same way.

7. When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 190C/Fan170C/Gas Mark 5. Divide the remaining mushrooms between the cakes, heaping them on top. Scatter over the remaining Parmesan. Bake for 20mins, until piping hot. Serve garnished with rocket.

Marin French Cheese Blog

Marin French Cheese Company is officially 146 years old. We are the oldest continuously operating cheese producer in the United States specializing in soft ripened cheeses. And, this is our new blog where we look forward to sharing with you about our community of cheese makers, art lovers, and lakeside stories from the cheese factory grounds.