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Extra power springs for 50th aniv. Blackhawk?

Got a 50th aniversery blackhawk 44magnum with internal lock. Im having light strikes aswell as trigger not reseting even when its cleaned, oiled and partially polished internals. Trigger not reseting isnt a big deal because it pops in place soon as ya touch the hammer to shoot again so i could live with that. But cant do light strikes since its a hunting gun and possibly defensive gun. I bought it new so springs are stock. As i understand it dont take regular blackhawk springs and i cant find any for this model in extra power. Could the hammer spring be shimed maybe to get more power? Any other options?

Why don't you knock it off with them negative waves? Why don't you dig how beautiful it is out here? Why don't you say something righteous and hopeful for a change? (Sgt. Oddball, KELLY'S HEROES)
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With a trigger spring that light, you have to watch that the transfer bar does not drop below the firing pin. The bar is lifted by the trigger. It can just nick the pin, maybe cause a hang fire or failure to fire. If it is a stock spring you can bend it a little to add more pressure.
The hammer spring must be strong and Ruger springs can take a set. I use Wolfe 26# over power hammer springs, I would think Wolfe would have them for your gun, contact them.
I make my triggers so light I beat the transfer bar problem by making my own, longer so at full cock my bar covers the whole firing pin. Even if my finger is kicked a little the gun never fails.
You can check yours to see how much the bar covers at full cock, if half or less, you need a stronger trigger pull.
It is a lot of fun to saw and file a new bar from tool steel, harden and temper it. Then adjust for a perfect fit. I had one break when I had to heat it in a spot and failed to harden and temper the whole thing again. The one on my SBH has gone about 83,000 rounds so far. I had to make one for my BFR 45-70 too since my trigger is only 19 oz. Easily done with an over power hammer spring. My SBH is 1-1/2# as is my Vaquero.
The hammer spring can be shimmed but the factory spring will just set and shorten again. It is amazing how much accuracy you will lose with a weak spring, I bought them by the dozen from Ruger, changed it every year as accuracy fell off. It is NOT hammer speed it is impact on the primer. Just buy some from Ruger if you can't find any, good for a year.

Another option or two.
You can remove & swap out the grip frame & all to one without a lock. Then you are using the more common & standard springs.
Or, you can do a modification to the lock version by removing the lock all together. There was a picture tutorial over on the Ruger Forum some time back how to easily do this.
Just a few different ideas.

Trigger spring has no effect on the transfer bar as they are not mechanically linked in any way... If by some misfortune (highly unlikely) your transfer bar is too short, a stronger trigger spring will not make it longer.

One thing you may look at is the plunger in the hammer. I had one hammer that the hammer plunger hole was super rough and when the hammer released the plunger moved with so much difficulty that it would hitch and influence ignition in a bad way.

Trigger spring has no effect on the transfer bar as they are not mechanically linked in any way... If by some misfortune (highly unlikely) your transfer bar is too short, a stronger trigger spring will not make it longer.

One thing you may look at is the plunger in the hammer. I had one hammer that the hammer plunger hole was super rough and when the hammer released the plunger moved with so much difficulty that it would hitch and influence ignition in a bad way.

Sorry to tell you but the transfer bar is connected to the trigger and only rises when you pull the trigger or cock the gun.
If the trigger is too light it will kick your finger ahead and drop the bar. The spring needs to be strong enough so you keep the trigger coming back.