Ok, I've been kicking around this idea since about 2013... and it's finally time to do something about it! This will be my first build, so I want to make sure I get the details right before any wood gets cut! Please feel free to chime in with advice!!

Rough Form Sketch:

Control Panel + Head Amp Panel:[/URL]

The general idea is that this pedestal is going to resemble a stacked amp with working head amp controls and the MAME computer housed in the large amp. I wanted the design to be large enough to accommodate 2 players, but small enough that it can be rolled into a corner when not in use.

Project Goals:

2-Player MAME cab with minimalist control panel (no aircraft landing on this one)

Motorized 4/8 way ServoStiks for both players

HDMI (+ VGA?) out

LED lighting under the amp

Project Challenges:

Woodworking will have to be done at a friends house because i don't have a garage or adequate work space

They look fairly simple to fabricate.If your friend has a drill press, a step bit like this should make it fairly easy to drill the joystick/button holes in metal.If you use the wood top and front panels as a support for the metal, you probably won't need to add edge bends for rigidity.

I'm not sure if he does have a drill press, but I was also thinking the art on those two panels would be laser etched + color filled too and there's a couple places in town that can doo the whole thing all at once. I was thinking that this would be a fairly thin piece of metal sunk into the wood to hide the edge and also so I can mount the joysticks from underneath.

They look fairly simple to fabricate.If your friend has a drill press, a step bit like this should make it fairly easy to drill the joystick/button holes in metal.If you use the wood top and front panels as a support for the metal, you probably won't need to add edge bends for rigidity.

I'm not sure if he does have a drill press, but I was also thinking the art on those two panels would be laser etched + color filled too and there's a couple places in town that can doo the whole thing all at once. I was thinking that this would be a fairly thin piece of metal sunk into the wood to hide the edge and also so I can mount the joysticks from underneath.

1. Where are P1/P2 Coin? Do you plan on using shifted functions for them?Coin-up via cosmetic knobs on the front? (if you do this, consider moving the volume control to the far left)

I didn't realize there needed to be separate buttons for Coin, couldn't they be mapped the same as P1/P2 Start?

I've never tried tying Coin and Start together -- it's definitely not how MAME is designed to work.Not sure if it would cause problems with any of the titles on your game list.

Well, it's easy enough to add another two buttons I'll look into it some more and make some revisions to the control panels tomorrow. Like I said, the electronic and programming side of this is definitely my weak points.

You have compiled your "can't live without it" game list, haven't you?

Yup! As much as I'd love to make a 4-player cab I just don't have the space (even for a pedestal) and if I really find I can't live without the track ball games I'll just have a new project on my hands.

Well, it's easy enough to add another two buttons I'll look into it some more and make some revisions to the control panels tomorrow. Like I said, the electronic and programming side of this is definitely my weak points.

Here are three ways to add the Coin functions:

1. Dedicated buttons on the control panel.

2. Use "shifted functions" (i.e. IPac P1 Start + P1B1 = Coin)

3. Mount switches behind two spring-loaded fake knobs on the front so they work the same as mounting switches behind the coin return on a coin door -- pushing in the knob closes the switch.

You could use amp knobs with different color inserts/rings/tops -- green, gold or silver for money.

You could do something similar for the Start and Exit buttons as well which would give all the fake knobs real functions.

Here are three ways to add the Coin functions:1. Dedicated buttons on the control panel.2. Use "shifted functions" (i.e. IPac P1 Start + P1B1 = Coin)3. Mount switches behind two spring-loaded fake knobs on the front so they work the same as mounting switches behind the coin return on a coin door -- pushing in the knob closes the switch.You could use amp knobs with different color inserts/rings/tops -- green, gold or silver for money.

#3 Is an interesting idea! While I'd still like to limit buttons, if I have to have them, making the knobs usable is a great compromise.

While color-coding might work okay, I'm probably going to label each knob since I'm laser etching these panels

Buy a Marshall half stack on Craigslist. I see them for sale all the time. It will probably be cheaper. You can use the knobs, buttons, and the speakers.

This is a good approach. Definitely the least amount of work needed. If you find a Marshall one, it would allow you to just change a minimal amount of details... though you're a slave to the dimensions of whatever you find online. Look for a 1x15" or 2x15" bass cabinet. Should be a decent height for an amp cabinet base along the lines of your build plan. And most people are eager to get rid of empty old big tubby cabs like this.

Tolex is no picnic for a first timer who wants it to look good. I commend your bravery. As an alternative consider Duratex... it's textured paint that people put on their home theater speakers and such. Looks good and am considering it for my subwoofers. Roll it on, no cutting and gluing of vinyl.

I am sure you can get a decent set of knobs on Ebay for a fair price that look just like Marshall knobs too if you don't find a ready made amp.

If you want to listen to music through the cabinet, and not just play guitar... DO NOT use guitar speakers. Please.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! Like I mentioned previously, The main reason why this project has taken so long is that I've been unable to find an amp set that not only fits the look I want, but also doesn't cost a ton more than just building it from scratch.

I know it's going to be a lot more work, but I really do like the idea of building this cab from the ground up and not just trying to squeeze it into whatever box I can find. I also happen to have leftover knobs, vinyl glue, etc from a previous project too

Tolex is no picnic for a first timer who wants it to look good. I commend your bravery. As an alternative consider Duratex... it's textured paint that people put on their home theater speakers and such. Looks good and am considering it for my subwoofers. Roll it on, no cutting and gluing of vinyl.

I'll take a look at Duratex, thanks for the tip! I also happen to know someone who makes/wraps amps professionally ... maybe I can convince them to give me a few pointers

I'll tell ya I highly recommend using contact cement if using Tolex. It really is a piece of cake in simply brushing on an even coat to both the Tolex and the wood. It is even better if using two sets of hands to help stretch it to get the tightest wrap. I have 100% perfect corners that are flat and not fudged or flared. Watch Uncle Doug's great videos to see how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxcLri3yn8Q

Very cool aesthetic. Looking forward to it. One thing to anticipate: having to stand an extra inch or two back from the cab if your toes are stubbing the base there. Maybe putting it on some rolling casters would alleviate that. Or just be very careful in planning button placement/standing comfort before drilling holes. It'd be a bummer to have a beautiful cab that's a little bit uncomfortable to play.

Very cool aesthetic. Looking forward to it. One thing to anticipate: having to stand an extra inch or two back from the cab if your toes are stubbing the base there. Maybe putting it on some rolling casters would alleviate that. Or just be very careful in planning button placement/standing comfort before drilling holes. It'd be a bummer to have a beautiful cab that's a little bit uncomfortable to play.

There will be casters but that's a good point about making sure the joysticks + buttons aren't too far away from the edge. I'll make sure to factor that into my design!

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Ok, small update / mail day post. I'm still working on the control panel design + computer elements but probably won't have anything to show until next weekend.

Here's what I have so far:

2x Ultimarc Servostik (+ control board)

1x I-PAC 2

2x Black metal bat tops (so much nicer feeling than plastic)

12x Black Classx micro-leaf buttons

8x Marshall Amp knobs

7x Momentary Push Buttons (knobs fit over these really well + they still spin!)

2x Black metal momentary push buttons

2x Black metal red LED momentary push buttons

1x Power plugin w/ switch

Now that I've found these momentary push buttons that work so well with the knobs I'm thinking of moving all non-gaming buttons to the secondary control panel...

If you really wanted kick*** sound out of it, I'd look for or recreate an old Ampeg 4x12 SVT cab. Maybe find/recreate the older tweed/cloth front heads to match. The bass cab itself you really wouldn't have to modify - just fix up/replace speakers and you have an excellent bottom end. Put maybe 4 4.5" and 4 2" tweeters behind the head grill. You'd have to squeeze a decent amp in there, but I'm sure car audio has something that will work.

If the head were detachable from the "speaker cab" and you had some 3-ways or high/mid hidden in them, you could just unplug the base and carry your "amp" with you as a portable console.

Oh and if you're looking for ideas for knobs... make one an input selector with arcade on one input, maybe an external somewhere and put a bluetooth module in there (about $20 for them on amazon). If it's going to have awesome sound, take advantage of it.