Since it first became a restaurant more than two decades ago, the handsome yellow Victorian house diagonally across from the old Blairsden estate in Peapack has housed six or seven dining establishments, from La Maison des Poeles through Gremolata and, for the longest run more recently, the Limestone Cafe.

One of this venue’s finest eras was in the late 1990s, as 89 Main. Perhaps by using the same name, the current owners will have better luck than some of the others. They certainly are off to a good start.

The current 89 Main opened at the beginning of January, offering a well-modulated atmosphere. That phrase covers two aspects; it’s not too noisy for a meaningful conversation (though I wouldn’t call it hushed) and the décor is in the best of taste, without being intrusive. The soft velvet-covered chairs are comfortable for an evening’s stay; the brown-and-white tile fireplace in the main dining room makes a nice focal point. Black-and-white photos in that room, as well as colorful modern prints in another, add just the right touches. Lighting is subdued, but happily it isn’t dim.

With the stage set for a good experience, the eclectic menu boosted expectations, and the food didn’t let us down. Although there are many Italian touches, in most cases they are subtle accessories to the primary interest on the plate.

For instance, eggplant caponata shares secondary billing with spinach on a seared Chatham cod entree ($25), offering a full-bodied element that matches well with the intrinsic nature of this fish. Gnocchetti (little gnocchi) next to lovely, braised short ribs in brown sauce ($24) creatively fill a space that otherwise might be left to rice or potatoes.

Entrees that go in another direction include the simple honey, thyme-basted rack of lamb ($27) and the rib-eye ($32) with braised cabbage and lardon for a contrasting wave of flavor.

For those whose culinary interests don’t venture beyond burgers, 89 Main offers an upscale version ($15) with a choice of cheeses. I suppose purists could always ask the kitchen to hold the tomato confit, hickory-smoked onions and horseradish mayo that are part of the package. But having a burger available is a smart move I’m seeing at more and more upscale restaurants, making these places more inclusive during tough economic times when every patron counts.

A wide variety of appetizers and salads could make a meal themselves in all sorts of combinations. The bitterness of endive is neatly short-circuited by sweetened walnuts and an orange yogurt vinaigrette ($9), while blue cheese adds a valuable undercurrent. For something heftier, there’s the arugula salad ($13) with dry-seared scallops, balsamic-glazed prosciutto and smoked mozzarella.

Port-caramelized onions and chili oil offer two different sensations in conjunction with baby octopus ($9), while a more traditional seafood starter is a neat rendition of three warm shrimp with cannellini beans ($7) and a basil pesto that adds to their compatibility.

Desserts are nicely done, especially an adorable little lemon tart ($9) with a pouffy meringue topper. However, I did a double take at the idea of paying $12 for rice pudding, even one served with cooked blueberries and fabulous house-made citrus ice cream.

When you look at the price structure overall, however, remember that you enjoy savings by bringing your own wine, which is well-handled. If you forget to bring a bottle, Peapack Fine Wines down the street has an ample selection.

Proprietor Dario Leka’s family also owns Da Noi in Randolph, and their experience in the business is evident from the way this place is run. Servers know their jobs, dinner is relaxed but not drawn-out and the whole experience is quite pleasant.

Plans call for outdoor dining when the weather turns warmer; this will add another facet to a place that already has a lot of appeal.