ticking sound on a 6.0

I know you guy's have talked about this some where, I noticed that a strong ticking sound up in the intake area. I'm wondering if the wrist pins are doing this or it is the rockers. It sound like more than one, but it does have 173000 miles on it. Is it time to get a long block or this a week end job?????

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After reading simular threads, which was located at the bottom of this post; Seams to be a problem in these 6.0's..

Now do they or have they come up with correct way of correcting this problem??

I have seen some ticking cleared up by using a good oil filter. I have worked on trucks that were ticking pretty badly and running a fram filter, changed the filter and the tick was decreased significantly. In my opinion AC filters are the way to go. It is a long shot, but a cheap fix if that is your issue.

I researched this in the past as my 6.0l does it also... Slight ticking at idle. I was told that it is due to solid lifters... Your only way around it would be to pull the valve covers and adjust the valve gap back to specifications.

I researched this in the past as my 6.0l does it also... Slight ticking at idle. I was told that it is due to solid lifters... Your only way around it would be to pull the valve covers and adjust the valve gap back to specifications.

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I did some research... And from what I can find the 6.0l utilized hydraulic lifters with roller rockets. Anyway if the ticking is bothering... I would suggest adjusting your valve gaps. It's an easy process just time consuming.

Out of curiosity, when the "ticking" sound is happening, is any damage occurring or is this benign and just an annoyance? I've seen many threads talk about the causes and possible solutions, but can't remember if anyone mentioned if this could cause or is causing any harm to the engine.

For daily driving its more of an annoyance... If your looking best performance, fuel economy etc. Exact valve time is important to ensure and efficiently running engine. I believe the worst that could happen is if it was way off and I mean way off and you like to run the engine really hard you could bend one of the push rods.

For daily driving its more of an annoyance... If your looking best performance, fuel economy etc. Exact valve time is important to ensure and efficiently running engine. I believe the worst that could happen is if it was way off and I mean way off and you like to run the engine really hard you could bend one of the push rods.

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Good to know...I'm sure others will find this explanation useful as well. Thanks!

You sure you dont have a bust exhaust manifold stud, or 7? These 6.0's were known to snap the heads off and the leak sounds alot like valve ticking due to timing and location. Almost all 6.0's that were not newish I have seen had at least 1 broken stud if not a handful.

You will need a hot torch but the best way we found in the shop was to torch all the heads off then heat the cylinder head right at the stud and use stud grippers (sockects with rollers inside) to apply tension and start unscrewing once the torch heats it enough. Sounds complicated and it is a 2 man job as you have to heat as you remove them but is by far the easiest way. Do all on both sides and replace with nice strong SS bolts and touch of med thread locker and all is well.