Rio used to leave and maybe does still leave the shrink tubing on the weld and I would think that increases the strength and prevents the weld to shred apart during use. It also adds some bulk.

Others don't and that can be an issue over time. I do not necessarily cut the welded loops off, but once there is even slight indication of tearing apart, I'll replace it with a braided loop I make either from 35lb or 50lb gudebrod braid.

- Welded loops need to be replaced as soon as the coating shows little damage.

Bruce (as Paul mentioned) still replaces welded loops for SW fishing. Scientific Anglers though does offer many fly lines coming with welded loops, but the 100lbs. core ones. I think, that is for the very reasons I had in my fp. They do offer the Amplitude Tarpon line coming with welded loops. I would like to check, if those loops can be pulled into the tip and if (or how far) they match the strength of the line.I just got some new MED lines and cut of the welded loops, because they have too much mass and I do not like the final turn over with that extra mass!

Lasse offered another fine way to splice the core under the coating. That is how I do my loops on my 9, 10 and 11 wt. dh lines. Try to get a needle under a 5wt. sinking line's coating. That needs a hell lot of practise in my experience. I have been watching the guys from the fishing shop "Korsholm" (Denmark) many times making loops the way Lasse mentioned. They do many loops every day! Still they struggle with quite some line's coatings. That's why I left that way out in my fp even though I agree with Lasse this to be a very sexy looping.

Sakari mentioned RIO leaving the shring tubes on for better longevity. That proves my point.But as I said proper welded loops need lots of practise which in my exp. very few people have.

Still coatings often break first and that puts down all test results in regard of strength.It's one to test a brand new welded loop and quite another to test it after 100 fishing days (which for me is just 4 month).

In fact I just ordered the 100 lbs. core lines from SA. Let's see how I will be adding a loop to them. Regards,Bernd

I like a longer head too. That is one reason I like the grain weight leviathans over the old SA bluewater express lines. The latter ones are more like bricks on a strap and don't work in cold. The leviathan's temperature range is huge. Just soak and stretch to make it work at 10 degrees. And if you forgot to soak, then just stretch more and you probably need to repeat a few times during the day. And they still excel in tropics. And they are smooth, which is always nice to hands. I think the intermediate I have may have a longer head than stated. At least the head is heavier than 500gr.

I have also found good lines with longer heads on monocore from a manufacturer whose name is changed to a bar accessory in here. Those lines are from pre-fingercuttingridge era. #10 clear tarpon intermediate line worked great for albies at Harkers Island in last November for example. And the heavier similarly work for early/late season Mediterranean tuna. Just bought a coldwater version that was quite supple at -6 degrees. Remains to see how it works in real life tuna chasing.

Good to see that SA has chosen the monocore way too. Then if they would leave the running line smooth.