Shibadaang!

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Hey Y'all, it's been a while, not so much into blogging these days. Too busy cranking out FA's and learning a new video editing program along with a new macbook pro. So check out my new life on Vimeo, here are my recents vids to give you an idea of what I've been up to for the last 6 months.
Just follow this link to my Shibidaang Vimeo page.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

The last three weeks have flown by with the speed of light and good weather has come and gone. On my last day I tried desperately to make away with a quick ascent of an old Dave Graham masterpiece we eyed down together 8 years back, Maze of Death V12. This is one of the most astounding little piece of rock although it is extremely sharp, the movement and beautiful colors make it all worth it in the end. Here is a small clip of my last attempts in the scorching heat of may in Bishop.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Ohh yes!! The Day has arrived for one of my biggest goals to go down! Ambrosia, the epidemy of highball bouldering. With difficult moves, precision technique and a extremely committing top-out, Ambrosia has it all. Ever since I heard about Kevin Jorgeson making the F.A. I made it a point to have my way with this amazing line. After a few days of work, sussing the sketchy finishing moves on TR, and rounding up a massive slew of 6 pads hahaha! I made the 3rd ascent. Im so relieved, for Ambrosia has been in my mind for a long time and now I have made a dream become reality. I give the biggest props to Kevin for visualizing and succeeding on the F.A. As well as my good friend Wills for belaying and spotting me, and Laura for the great film job!

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

For all of you who haven't seen the new video trailer from last years 2 month killing spree in southern Utah, Starring Paul Robinson, Jon Cardwell, David Graham, Daniel Woods, Seth Giles, myself along with many others. You need to check it out here at http://desertratpro.com/leashless.html

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Recently out the game from the French connection, we have found ourselves deep in the heart of Catalunian Spice(a.k.a. Spanish climbing hot spot) First off was a brief encounter with the notorious Suirana. A lil Petzl shindig, tis what brought us to here, also an amazing collaberation of some of the worlds strongest climbers. After one week in Suirana, bad weather, and a elephant crumbling sickness. It was time to depart towards our new home for the next 2 months, Las Avellanes.

Once arrived in Las Avellanes, we made ourselves comfortable with our new host Albert Gine!!

The coolest lil spanish man ever with some sick dance moves!! A hop skip and a jump down the road is the massive cuevo of Santa Linya. This one cave itself has more 5.14+ routes than any other crag in the world that I know off. Jon and Dave have spent many of days here in Santa Linya, thus it is not our main focus even though its within 5 minutes from our house. Jon threw together some rapid ascents of 2 8c+ routes and 1 8c within a few days of work, pictured below is Jon racing towards the anchor of Fabela(8c+) just prior to him being engulfed into the darkness of the sunset.As time has past, seasons change, leafs have fallen but still to our dismay the heat just wont go away!! We now have a new member to the family of Albert and we are all very excited about the new pup Rocco, unfortunately Pichu the cat is not so welcoming to Rocco yet??There is some laughs to be had with the dynamic duo of cat and dog around the house, constant confrontation at the strangest of times. All this animal interaction, definitely makes me miss me lil pup Sage back home, so psyched to see her.

Apart from climbing day in day out, we have been lucky enough to get out and explore the amazing landscape of the Noguera sector of Catalunya, searching for future crags and i tell ya there is no stop to future development of sport climbing in Spain... OH Brrother!!!

The last month has been consumed by chasing the shade and evading the heat which has brought us to gorgeous valley of Margelef. This place is absolutely stunning, with massive overhangs on conglomerate rock this area reminds a lot of my home crag of Maple Canyon but on steroids hehhe. Lots of pockets!! Sharp, small, incut pockets. I like!!!Punting once again at the last move 8a+ onsight attempt

One of these days I hope to get into a route groove, this trip has taught me a lot about my weaknesses in route climbing and climbing with Jon and Dave has totally inspired me to stay strong in both bouldering and sport climbing. Dave on entering the heinous pocket stabbing crux of Victima del Passat(8c/8c+)

From afar the rock here in Margelef look like shear limestone walls, but once close the eyes begin to catch glimpses of wee little cobbles and pockets, at first i wasn't so keen due to its resemblance of Maple Canyon, I was like eeehhhh! cobbles are cool but i grew up climbing with cobbles and I more or less want to climb something new and different. Now I can't contain my excitement for the days we spend climbing in Margelef, and in the end its nothing like Maple Canyon.Once again a jaw-dropping evening as the sun leaves us in the shadow of the short steep routes of the Labratory.Cutting my fingers on 24Hour Party People(8c+) Labratory, Margalef

Monday, October 12, 2009

Southern France is where we be, and the Cote D' Azur is where we roam! By night we get lost in a labyrinth of nightclubs, bars, and ancient design. By day we search out the most inspiring limestone along with prime temperatures that seem not to exist in the south of France, where it has taken us to next is the wee village of Carros. Rumored to have an amazing style and natural holds, this new destination has stretched out our stay here in the south.

Just after Dave's incredibly fast send of Abyss(9a) in the Gorge Du Loup, he quickly set his eyes another amazing gem of the Nice area known as Chocholocco also 9a. Here he his entering the redpoint crux consisting of huge moves on compression pockets and slopers, rock we all have dreams of, while we lie awake in the eve of night.The crew headed towards the infamous beach side after a long restful day!One of my current projects at the Gorge du Loup, the most heinous 8c in the world. Actually wouldn't be so bad if the skin would just stick for once, I'll get used to it one of these days. Had a huge break through in beta and psyche, ended my day with a new high point and hopes of sending soon, Bawse!The Cote D' Azur in the late evening light, beautimus isn't it!!

Friday, September 25, 2009

Fionnay, what a magical place. A quick flashback from Switzerland, memories we all hang on to tightly, literally.

At the pumpy crux of a 25 move V10, out the underbelly of the sickest single boulder in SwissDavide and talented photographer and climber Fred MoixSeth styling his way through the crux of the Alcholic, Drug Addict and Criminal(v10)Oh yeah and I got a new haircut for those of you who didn't know, the first time in like 5 years my hair has been off my shoulders and out of my Fache!Jon crushing the opening moves on Underground Paradise(8b+)

Nice, France not a bad place if I say so myself. Amazing rock, beautiful beaches, and very friendly people. We are currently staying about 10 min. from downtown Nice in a wee guesthouse aside our gracious friends Fred and Anne Otto. Their son Enzo is one of the most inspiring up and coming climbers in the world, Im talking he is 14 and climbing 9a(14d). Kid is ill strong here he is climbing on Abyss(9a) which in my opinion is the best looking route here in the Gorge Du Loup.

Jon also is killing it on the rock coming extremely close to sending Puntx(9a)Enzo(the beast) and his dad Fred talking climbing at the crag, pretty cool to witness their dynamic together as father son and also climbing partners.Apart from the climbing we've been spending time at the beach, working on our beauty tans for the ladies, hehe!Seth going for a lil dip in the Mediterranean Where our evening activities reside. Lots of videos, talking shit, and delicious dinners in our crib.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Oh Boy, after the last couple months of hell weather and conditions, I have a feeling things are starting to change, like the season! yeahah so psyched for the fall temps to come into full affect.

Ceuse was beautiful and amazing but there is other fish to fry, thus we have ventured north into Switzerland to Zurich for a couple days. Dave had coordinated a presentation of our vid proj. at the swiss youth championships at one of the sickest climbing gyms in the world known as Klettern Zentrum, yah bub. Massive gym with huge world cup walls and bouldering, not to mention a very hospitable staff and crew of good peeps. Made some great connections for the film, experienced a wee bit about life in one of the richest cities in the world, good times.

The more distant crew, being Joe, Collette, Daniel and Courtney have been down in the southern region of France at an old historical climbing area just outside of Nice. Gorge Du Loup is their new stomping terrain and all we have heard from them is good things. After a brief stop in one of our favorite little towns Verbia for some relaxing/bouldering time, we busted down south to meet up with good friends.

Chilling in our lil bungalow after driving for 10 hours in the dark, rainy roads of Southern France. So relieving to finally arrive, mostly due to the change of scenery, rock and temperature. A couple heinous rainstorms later and we made it to the crag.Gorge Du Loup, known for its insanely hard resistant climbing, killer tufa pinches oh and a few chipped holds, oh bugger. regardless of the old school techniques of development the crag itself hosts some amazing challenges on beautiful rock, we are psyched but for know it just needs to dry out a bit.Little rest day jaunt through the crazy town surrounding the Gorge du LoupMe getting creative with the photo cam,Amazing architecture from centuries ago, has always blown me away. I love all these little towns in Europe, Bawse!! One of the cool locals showing us his contortionist skills on the steep power climbing, so good!Dave on Triptik Tonik, rumored to be the best 8c+ in all of Europe, absolutely stunningA little healthy meal in the bungalowSome of the unique tufa features unfortunately they are still a bit wet from the the rainstormsThus creating nigh time frustration in the bungalow. We Leave tomorrow to some old friends of Jon that live in Nice, they have a guest house for us which is according to Jon pretty, pretty sick. Swimming pool, wifi, and walking distance from the beach. shiiyeahah. all we need now is good weather and the send train shall be unleashed

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Sooo Hot here at Ceuse the last couple of weeks, not sure what to do with myself sometimes, Being here at the most amazing climbing area in the world and not being able to try hard sucks!! aahahha!! The rock is naturally very slippery limestone with no texture, even with the slightest bit of humidity the friction becomes total shizz! On the other hand the video project is steadily moving on, I can't believe we have been in Europe now for 2 months time has just flown by and we will be soon leaving Ceuse for there is other fish to fry. I'm talking Gorge de Loup, Gorge De Tarn, Margelef and Oliana in Spain, oh and did I mention Switzerland. We actually leave for Suisse on the 5th of Sept. Dave has a big event he must perform along with a lecture on the what abouts of our current video trip we are creating.

The time has also come now to decide whether or not leave back to the states Sept. 18 as opposed to staying till January 10th?? Decisions, decisions.

As far as climbing goes we have all been making do, due to the heat that is. Jon as always is looking very solid on everything he tickles crushing everything in sight. Seth is getting in a steady flow of running the camera along with the crew, all the logistics of filming and capturing footage onto the hard drives is a lot more than we bargained for, considering we have been camping for over a month with little or no electricity.

Dave is back in the game with a strong foot, and more psyche than ever, he races to the crag everyday to a new musical mix created the night prior.

As for myself, just waiting for good temps to arrive so the killing spree can begin. I've gone through all the classic routes along with many repeats of the most choice lines but for now I can only wait, wait, wait, oh and maybe drink a lil bit EHEH!

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

So I'm here in Ceuse now for two weeks or so? losing track of the days and hopefully not my mind. There is a lot going on between all the hiking, climbing, video shizz and partying like rock stars hehe! So here is a quick slideshow of some good times at Ceuse. I cant believe how amazing this place is everyone must come and experience it here.

ohohh ScarryDave during his happy momentsView of Gap from CeuseThe crews new toyJon on Biographie A friendly TreeAll krunked with electricity shooting through my veins just prior to Jon cutting off a grip of my hair with a kitchen knife,The morning routine at our cooking groundsA little rest day entertainment!Hydration is key!!C'est Falais(the cliff)