I cut a lot of steel and have yet to ever have any problems with the cheap blades I find is you call $10-15 cheap. You have to take it slow and put the steel in in such a way to give to smallest part up so it feeds better

I was informed that Norton norzon abrasive disks for 4" and 4-1/2" angle grinders were much better than most other brands. I decided to treat myself to a good quality product for a change and bought some. They do seem somewhat better than the cheap abrasive disks I'm used to, but whether I'd rate them as "much better" is uncertain.

At the college welding shop where I have taught or assisted with a class for many years, we have used Sait brand and some other undoubtedly overpriced brand which I can't remember the name of for our series of 14" chop saws (they don't last too long at a school shop). At home, I've used Harbor Freight's Chinese made and Russian made 14" blades, and Hitachi blades which came with a Milwaukee chop saw I bought. Frankly, I haven't been able to tell enough difference to matter. They don't cost much, and all of them seem to last a good amount of time. One of the brands at the college a few years ago wouldn't work unless you put a paper disk between the blade and the large hold down washer. We could get the paper disks from our supplier if we could remember to ask, or we could cut our own with scissors. Whenever someone who didn't know the secret would change a blade, the saw wouldn't cut. Those might have been one batch of the Sait brand, but I'm not sure. (What good is a lot of experience if you have a bad memory?)

I have a supplier of the best blades available and really reasonable. If you want 10 or more email me. My college roommate has made millions doing this. I get any I want at jobber price,
Also incredible 4.5 inch flap wheels at a great price.
And super 8 inch wheels for the shop grinders.

You are going to have absolute heck cutting oilfield tubing and sucker rod. Wholly different animals from 'plumbing' material.

You are going to eat up wheels terribly fast either way you go. Better would be a metal cutting diamond blade if you can go that route on your machine, depending if you're planning on being in a production environment.

That tubing has been work-hardened from stress, especially within a foot or so of the ends where tongs have bitten it.

Sucker rod is intentionally high-carbon springy material and can be hard to cut, especially if it's been removed after a downhole rod failure where it was jolted hard. I've seen rods almost tied in knots they're so flexible.

Another little point most people aren't aware: all downhole tubulars (incl rods) from oilfield production are slightly radioactive--called NORM naturally occurring radioactive materials. All that dust and particulate matter you're going to get when cutting (or smoke when using torch) is lightly NORM. Use a good mask or smoke / dust sucker fan in your work area.

There have been well documented cases where yards working oilfield tubulars have been found contaminated and had to be cleaned up expensively. Just be cautious.

I am not getting into production or fabrication, but the chop saw cuts so much cleaner than my torch for precise angles and such that is why I ask for the chop saw blade. Those sucker rods just ate up the chop saw blades. Normally, the torch is sufficient and I just grind down the ends and burrs.

What diamond blade do you recommend for a 14 inch chop, or they all about the same?

The Harbor Freight blades only have about 1/4" of useful cutting abrasive around the outside edge. Once that's worn off (quickly), all they do is make a few sparks. You can bear down all you want and they will not cut butter.

The blades my Dad gets will burn through steel like nobody's business until they're the diameter of the saw motor. No idea what brand, though.

I have found eBay to be a good source for carbide blades. If you go carbide use safety glasses and a face shield. Sparks burn me right through my clothes ,but a new one cuts through like butter. After cutting all day for two weeks the blade will just spark and fail all in one shot.They are expensive but your lungs will like them.

Makita blades work very well and don't plug up as
easily as most others. In the last few years other
blades have gotten better. The carbide tipped blades
need a slower speed saw to work well. For heavy
cutting, you're probably better off with a cutting
torch.

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