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Friday, 18 May 2012

Vauxhall Fashion Scout designer Elisa Palomino has been selected as part of
Dolce&Gabbana's The Spiga2.The D&G boutique, which was launched in 2010, aims to be a launch
platform for emerging up and coming designers through a selection of talented
designers. All Spiga2 designers arepersonally handpicked by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and in store, their collections are mixed in with the Dolce&Gabbana accessories collections.View Elisa's profile on the site here.

As part of a new feature, every Fashion Friday, the VFS blog team will interview an influential fashion individual. First up is Jessica Quillin, aclaimed author, writer, entrepreneur and all-round fashion favourite. She is currently working as the Chief Strategy Officer for Atelier 36 and the Managing Director of Quillin Consulting.

Your
company Atelier 36 continuously works with up and coming designers, can
you tell us about some of the campaigns you are currently working on?

At Atelier 36, my business partner, Krista
Peck, and I are really excited about several projects that we have ongoing. In
particular, we are thrilled about a campaign that we just launched for the
Young British Designers called YBD On Tour. This initiative is designed to introduce the Young British
Designers (YBD), which specializes in fashion created by UK emerging designers,
to the US market. We also are in the process of working with a
number of young designers on a variety of brand and marketing projects,
including dressmaker Yan To and jewellery brand Ruby Browning.

You
are an avid supporter of Vauxhall Fashion Scout – what do you think of us as a platform for
emerging designers?

I think that VFS is a highly effective
platform for emerging designers in the UK. Allowing young designers the
opportunity to showcase their talents through runway presentations,
exhibitions, and other events is an amazing way to introduce them to the
fashion industry. Ones to Watch is by far my favourite show at LFW because it
is such a powerful way to see the examples of the next generation of fashion
minds all at once.

What
do you think is the importance in placing such support for recent graduates and
first time designers?

I think that support for graduates and
young designers is critical because there are very few resources available for
them to develop their own point of view and showcase their talents. Funding is
an especially touchy thing for young designers, many of whom end up working for
larger fashion houses and may not ever have their own work see the light of day
in the industry itself.

VFS
has launched the careers of designing talents such as David Koma and Hermione
de Paula, which of our designers (from AW12) do you think is the next big
thing?

All of the VFS AW12 designers are amazing talents.
But, I really love Anne Sofie Madsen’s aesthetic. One is keenly aware of her
illustrator’s eye for detail when you observe the contours of her pieces. The
Primitivist approach of her SS12 collection was particularly powerful.

Living
in the US, do you get a chance to attend LFW? If so, what shows did you make
last season? If not, how do you follow the shows?

I usually do get the chance to attend both
the AW and SS shows for LFW. But, when I
cannot attend shows, I do like to follow them online as best I can via video.
This is what I did for SS2012 in September when I was unable to make it to
London due to the birth of my son.

Is
there a similar organisation to Fashion Scout in the US? If so, what could we learn from
them and vice-versa?

We have a number of large and small
organisations within the US that provide resources for emerging designers. The
CFDA, in particular, offers a number of scholarships and other support schemes
for young designers. Organisations like
StartUp Fashion also provide business resources and marketing support for young designers. I
think that these US organisations could learn a lot from the VFS example of
offering emerging designers catwalk and exhibition space during the main mêlée
of Fashion Weeks and in two locations. It gives these designers a sense of
industry legitimacy at the same time it provides a healthy dose of immediate
marketing that would benefit any designer.

UK fashion
industry professionals may find that there is a bevy of untapped resources in
smaller enterprises such as can be found in the US. Boutique firms can offer both
organisations and emerging designers more tailored services and one-on-one
attention at a fraction of the cost of larger firms. One of the things we at
Atelier 36 constantly tell the designers with whom we work is that there is a
lot of sense in going local for everything from fabric sourcing to production.

Thursday, 17 May 2012

Georgia Hardinge's designs have been worn in a video for Alpines's new single Empire. Catch a glimpse of the dress, worn by Catherine Pockson, three minutes into the video. The UK band tweeted to VFS designer Georgia:

"@alpinesmusic: @hardingegeorgia Thank you so much Georgia! It is SUCH a beautiful dress and I felt honoured to wear it." Alpines singer Catherine joins Ren Harvieu and Jessie J in the list of celebs who have been spotted in Hardinge's designs.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout recently caught up with Fashion Fringe semi-finalist, Raffaele Ascione to talk prep for his coming interview with chairman, Christopher Bailey, and the roots of his hip-hop-infused feminine design. Meeting in his studio- the back room of his shared apartment- Raffaele talks us through images tacked to his walls- sharing wall-space with toile, and sequin samples that hint at what to expect next season- and his career "near-miss" ( surprisingly more in keeping with Beyonce's "Run the World" playing in the background). Raffaele- also an established illustrator- starts with where it all began: drawing.

... I've been drawing since forever. My Mum says now, "my God, Lello, you used to draw all the time. On everything. Anything you could find: bills, anything that was lying around". She'd go mad over it.

VFS:... not the usual kindergarden scrawls on the living room wall?

RA: When I was in Kindergarden in Austria, it was clothes- in my teens, it was Britney Spears, and Destiny's Child outfits- I really would draw literally every day. It was my only way of being creative at the time. When I decided to study fashion, I began thinking differently... especially because at the time, I was thinking "am I going to be a professional dancer, or am I going to do this?". So, I did take it more seriously, and I would tell myself "you need to practice one hour a day. At least." Second year [of my] BA, I had my first solo exhibition in London, then in Frankfurt a year later- which sold out- and the commissions started coming in, so it really became... "something".

RA: Fankfurt's home. If I want to escape, and I have the time, I'll go there. I lived in Italy as well for two, or three years, but I was born and raised in Germany. It'll always be home. Italy completely inspired me all the time though; I grew up with very traditional, Italian women around me. My nan really inspires me- she's one of those really passionate- stubborn- Italian women. That's where my feminine "side" probably comes from; and that side of my work as well, with the lace.

VFS: Do you think the nomadic upbringing is how you've come to work so successfully with two aesthetics that can be considered poles-apart: the traditionally-feminine, with street-wear?

RA: Yeah, growing up Germany, my friends were really into hip-hip culture, and were listening to Fugees, Dr.Dre, Tupac... we were mad about LL Cool J, and I used to wear my Southpole baggy jeans, and Nike oversized T-shirts- well, I'm kind of going back to that now... but you will always see sporty elements in my clothes- but going back to the women I grew up with- I'm also always going to be mixing it with the feminine.

VFS: So, your aesthetic is already pretty established; what can we expect to see next season? I'm seeing a lot of sequins samples tacked to the wall...

RA: It's important every season to be moving my textile forward. I really want to develop the lace- push boundaries with it, try something new- that's the first focus... and then the sequins came in. I'd like to be bolder with colour; it'll be a continuation of the pale blues from Autumn/Winter- corals, mint greens, baby blues... but then obviously really mix them in with the black looks.

VFS: It feels bolder.

Yeah.

... and not the extended, uncertain "yeah" of designer afraid to take risks. Ascione knows what he wants; knows where he's going; knows it in detail... down to the Studio 54 walk of his look book girls (see?).

With nearly 200 designer applicants, the "home of new talent" has proven itself as an established and celebrated platform for supporting emerging design talent in the industry, and S/S13 looks to be one of the best ever for Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Key industry experts came together to hand select the future designers for Vauxhall Fashion Scout S/S13 at both London & Paris Fashion Week, including the coveted Merit Award and prestigious One's To Watch showcase, that is held as a highlight every season.

Designers are considered for Catwalk, Presentation and Exhibition places and with that gain access to Vauxhall Fashion Scout's renown Mentoring programme.

The esteemed Selection Panel for S/S13 included some of the industries most respected and talented individuals, each bringing their own unique perspective and opinion of the shortlisted collections. On the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Selection Panel this season were:

Martyn Roberts- Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Charlotte Gunstone - Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Ruth Runberg - Browns

Erin Mullaney - Avenue 32

Stefan Siegel - Not Just A Label

Jessica Bumpus - Vogue.com

Tui Lin - POP Magazine

Judith Tolley - CFE

David Koma - Designer & VFS Alumni

Eudon Choi - Designer & VFS Alumni

Rebekah Roy - Stylist

Laura Margott - Vauxhall Motors

Katie Oyler - Vauxhall Motors

Karen Harper - Toni&Guy

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout Selection Panel also marked the launch of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Instagram, capturing exclusive behind the scene's imagery from the event, straight to the VFS Twitter.

Yesterday, whilst VFS's Selection Panel for SS13 designers was under way, Sub Editor Sara McAlpine popped to VFS designer Raffaele Ascione's studio to grill him on SS13 and what it feels like to be chosen by Christopher Bailey as a Fashion Fringe Semi-Finalist.

Wednesday is our usual Designer Exclusive day, however, this exclusive interview is so juicy and packed full of gossip - we're going to leave you waiting another day!

Tuesday, 15 May 2012

VFS sends a huge congratulations to our designer Anne Sofie Madsen who won the Danish Design Talent award at Dansk Fashion Awards 2012. The awards, which are sponsored by Dansk magazine, Audi and Elle, takes place in an annual ceremony at the Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum. The winners, who are decided by an online poll as opposed to a panel, are awarded the titles at a Great Gala Dinner. The awards range from Best Danish Designer' to Danish Design Talent, the title that was awarded to Anne Sofie.

Designer Manuela Dack has been well received in the press since graduating from Middlesex University in 2010. Once Vogue Italia has described you as 'one of the most interesting English designers of the moment', you know you're destined for greatness.

Manuela has recently been featured in a Marie Claire feature and Vaga magazine editorial - see above. Whilst future press coming out soon includes Italian Vogue's June Issue and Elle UK's August Issue.

Remember we posted last week about Ren Harvieu wearing a bespoke Georgia Hardinge dress on Jools Holland? Well she also wore Manuela Dack silk and foiled lace shirt on BBC breakfast for her interview and live performance you can view the segment here...

Monday, 14 May 2012

Earlier this month, "One to Watch", Myrza de Muynck picked out her collection-favourite, explaining her choice to the VFS team. Holding up a terry-loop sweater with blush, gauze overlay, and hand-finished embellishment, the young designer explained the selection as "really feminine, but easy-going- you can just put it on- I like the lightness of it, really." She also went on to explain the "cheeky" element to the show styling- seen in the video above- claiming the "quirkiness" injected via bold animal prints, and colour-blocked accents was a play on the effeminate pastel pinks, adding character to the cool, "at-ease" Muynck-girl we're now so used to seeing. We suppose all that explains why VOGUE.com's Jessica Bumpus picked this "One to Watch" as a fashion week favourite.

If you missed Myrza discussing other elements of her Autumn/Winter collection on the BBC's "One Show" last week, you can catch up here. You can also follow her on Twitter @myrzademuynck, and us @FashionScout.