Oak Dart Board Cabinet

This is a WoodsmithShop project. I stayed pretty darned close to their plan. I used 8 quarter oak that I’m (apparently) actively turning into wormy wood in my barn loft. As you can see, I’m not afraid of including what many would consider to be imperfections. In fact, I embrace them and even accentuated them here with darker stain. I used solid panel glue-ups on the doors instead of ply.

I used gel stain first, let it dry and then a second, darker gel stain for all the joints. I really like the results because that added depth without being immediately obvious as to how. As mentioned, I also dabbed the darker stain into the wormholes to make them pop. I flicked a bit of that stain here and there for additional character. Finally, I applied two coats of lacquer.

The doors are held closed and open with magnets. I had to scale down the washers on the doors because it was too difficult to open!

The chaulk boards are just hardboard with the chaulk spray-on. I may mark up the score boards with stick-on letters, but first I want to use it to see which games I like.

This was my first attempt at making my own crown molding. Granted, it’s tiny, but satisfying to be able to make my own, especially from the same material.

Two complaints:

1. The only thing I hate more than having to spend a lot of money on hardware is to settle for the crap I get locally. After purchasing and failing miserably at aging with acid (the latch disintegrated!) I just ordered the “real” hardware that the plan called for. What a difference.

2. I am very unhappy with the pine beadboard. First I tried to use 1/8” hardboard beadboard that I had. Even painted it with the milk paint, but decided it wasn’t right, being too thin. The plan called for 3/8”. So I spent the money on a full sheet. Not only does it look like crap on the back (which is a pride thing only), but the front was rough and splintered. Of course I sanded it, but it was not going to get as smooth as I expected. If I were to do this again I believe I’d go with MDF and mill the grooves myself.

3. I messed up the front to back placement of the door stops. I simply didn’t think it through properly, I really want to mortise the cups deeper to allow the doors to close a bit more, but I’ll be darned if I can get those 1/2” magnets out of the cups!

4. This was stupid: I struggled with the door glue-up, having a hard time getting it square before it dried. Well, the rails are NOT aligned consistently. Oops! Next time I’d go with their recommendation to build a registration jig for the doors.

I brought the dart board into the office today and we mounted it on a wall with aluminum cleats. Ordered the darts and can’t wait to try it out.

I love the wood and how you finished it. I made the exact same dartboard almost a year ago except out of walnut. If I had to do it over again I would use smaller magnets. The 1/2” that the plans called for were just too strong. I couldn’t open the doors without feeling like I was going to pull the whole thing off the wall! I removed the magnet washers on the door and just left the screw. That gave the magnet a little less surface to grip.

Yes the magnets were too strong. I downsized and counter bored my washers and that helped a lot. Funny enough, I need MORE magnet power on the door edges to keep them open. They work and stay open, but they don’t feel right to me.

I really like the old world look of this cabinet. I think you did a great job with the antiquing process and I wouldn’t worry about your minor imperfections. I should think you would want something behind the dart board that could be easily replaced when it gets too many holes – bead board or mdf shouldn’t really matter. (IMHO) Someone is bound to miss the board a few times. (-: