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Walking into Vækst, you’ll almost certainly feel like you just stepped into a garden party. Strings of bulbs hang throughout, giving a yellow tint to the walls overgrown with greenery. Framed in the center of the space is a two-story greenhouse, setting the tone for the culinary magic at play here. A flowerpot with a base of goat’s cheese and baby garden veggies for dipping, fennel-seed buns accompanied by a wooden spatula to layer on the whipped butter, and a salad of vibrant tomatoes, prepared with ramsons, toasty almonds and a light sesame dressing, leave strong impressions with their delicate, floral notes and popping colors. Both the grilled beef tenderloin, with smoked marrow and tarragon sauce, and sprinkled with a concentrated white powder of yucca root, as well as the fried brill with Danish green peas and a fragrant mussel sauce, are highly recommended mains. A new star on the menu is the raspberry sorbet with dark chocolate clusters, fresh berries and pickled raspberry oil that’s vibrant and green. Just this summer, the restaurant group behind Vækst, Cofoco, announced that it was the first in Denmark to be entirely dependent on solar energy, producing 30% more energy than is currently used across its 13 restaurants. The future of Vækst is definitely looking very green. (Text: Victoria Pease / Photos: Chris Tonnesen)