Description

The first pitch (10d, 90ft) starts tight fingers then to fingertips toward a fun move past a small roof, then more tight fingers and tips to awkward hands then easier ground to anchors. P2 (5.12-, 105ft) is crux, starts tight fingers and tips on series of stretchy moves to ledge, then slightly overhanging tight fingers with poor stemming, past 2 bolts, then hang left to clip 2 more bolts over steep dihedral with seam, crimps, and friction for feet (yikes) to anchor. Rating is approximate on pitch as first ascending party was not worthy to finish the pitch so if you get it, please update. P3(5.10d, 80ft) nice short corner with good fingers past pin to bulges with good rests and fun climbing. Finishes on short but strenuous OW bit after a bolt.

Location

Accessed by rappel. Route is upstream, just around corner from bird of prey on large, obvious corner system but the wall starts in water. From parking area go down main trail about 100 feet and look for a faint trail (i left a cairn)angling right. Follow it on highest point between the two canyons, looking for cairns once you get on bare rock toward the cliff-end. Once you get to a small saddle you'll follow cairns to right, below high point, along ledges and down some until you reach the overlook above the main canyon/creek down below. Look for the rap anchors, close to tree on edge. Approach is somewhat wandering but easy going, 15minutes.3 raps with a 60m is fine. If you want the option to bail to the water (thigh deep)you'll need a 70m from the start of pitch 1 though.

Protection

Lots of thin stuff, I'd say 3 00's and 3 0's (I'm talking metolious sizes here) plus nuts (ball nuts are great), and otherwise doubles to #3 BD with a single #4 and single #5, plus a half dozes draws and a few extenders.