When pigs flyhttps://flypigs.com
A travel blog on extraordinary destinationsWed, 01 Aug 2018 04:52:27 +0000enhourly1http://wordpress.com/https://s0.wp.com/i/buttonw-com.pngWhen pigs flyhttps://flypigs.com
Israelhttps://flypigs.com/2018/05/13/israel/
https://flypigs.com/2018/05/13/israel/#respondSun, 13 May 2018 20:22:16 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=912Continue reading →]]>Israel is real! Thanks to the numerous bank holidays that Mother Russia generously offers, I seized the opportunity and discovered Israel. It’s been a few weeks since I came back and I now realize how helpful the trip was. It helped me to understand quite a few things about the situation in Israel, its history, and the relationship between the Jews and Palestinians.

The first impression Israel gave me was quite pleasant. After leaving snowy Moscow, I arrived at the modern Tel-Aviv Ben-Gurion airport to feel the warm, sunny air on my face.

A friendly suggestion, you should avoid going to Tel-Aviv downtown twice, as it is subject to traffic jams all day. I instead took the road immediately to Jerusalem.

On the way to Jerusalem, you notice how well developed the infrastructure is in Israel. There is a very good road system that makes it easy to travel by car. The landscapes are picturesque, quite beautiful and green. Israel mastered the art of irrigation and agriculture now makes miracles. What was formerly a barren desert was transformed into a luxuriant oasis, with grasslands, fields, and woods. Many fruits, such as oranges or mango grow there now.

If you stop at Bethlehem, be prepared to leave your car in special parking lots and take a taxi to your final destination. Typically, car insurance does not cover cars in both the Israeli and Palestine zone.

Like many cities victimized by mass tourism, Jerusalem is packed with coach busses of tourists and street vendors during the day, so you might prefer the magic atmosphere of the city by night or at dawn.

The Synagogue at the Western Wall.

The Western Wall, the most sacred place for the Jews, is all that the remains of the Solomon Second Temple, destroyed during the Roman times. The wooden cupboards contain manuscript versions of the Torah. By definition, for a place to be called a synagogue, it must contain a handwritten version of the Torah, so a private apartment may even become a synagogue.

If I ask you what’s the capital city of Israel, chances are you will answer with Tel-Aviv. Actually, it is wrong. Tel-Aviv is the city where almost all embassies are located. The Knesset, the Israeli parliament is based in Jerusalem, which is also the biggest city in the country. So why this confusion? The treaty of 1948 granted Jerusalem a special status and a division in to 3 zones. Zone A is left to Palestinian administration. The local police, for example, are Arab. Zone B is a buffer zone and zone C is under Israeli administration. Israel took, de facto, a more prominent role in Jerusalem after the 1967 war and, today, mainly Jews inhabit the city. In 2018, Donald Trump announced that he would move the US embassy to Jerusalem. This declaration triggered some sporadic protests on the Palestinian side, but in reality, the majority of Palestinian don’t care about the location of the US Embassy in zone C.

Some Israel landmarks make you drive through Palestinian territory, so don’t miss this chance to get a better understanding of what Palestine is today.

What exactly is Palestine? First, it is easy to confuse the term Palestine, depending on if we are speaking about the geography, history or nation. Let’s delve a little deeper into this. The first reminiscence of Palestine, the State of Philistine, existed as early as 900 BC, in the western shore region that straights from Gaza to Tel-Aviv. In the 5th century, all of the current territory of Israel was called Palestine. From the 14th century, the Ottomans still called this region Palestine, so did the British during their protectorate. Palestinians, as a Nation, are basically the non-Jews, not citizens of Israel and living in the territories not administrated by Israel, but under its control. These territories are called “occupied” territories by the Palestinian Authority, and mildly, “disputed” territories or autonomous regions by Israel. Because the Palestinian territories are embedded in Israel, many people around the world deny the very existence of Palestine.

There are two very distinct autonomous regions, separated from each other by Israeli territory: The biggest one, is the West Bank, also sometimes referred to as Cisjordania, named this way because it is situated on the west bank of the Jordan River, and the Gaza Strip. The West Bank government seats in Ramallah and is majority composed by the Fatah, the legacy party of the PLO (Palestine Liberation Organization), led by Yasser Arafat. I found the atmosphere in the West Bank to be pleasant and quiet. I was told that many Palestinians in the West Bank do not yearn for full autonomy, because they would lose many benefits and their standard of living would decrease. Under certain conditions, they can also obtain Israeli citizenship and then enjoy good social care.

The other, less lucky Palestinian territory is the Gaza Strip, a small strip of land, roughly 40 km long, 8-10 km wide, but very densely populated, with almost 2 million inhabitants. Israel maintains a tight control on vital supplies such as water, electricity, telecommunications, and largely, all import of goods in to Gaza. Furthermore, Israel keeps a wide buffer zone inside the Strip, leaving even less resources for the Palestinians. Gaza is governed by Hamas, a Palestinian Islamic organization, which acceded to power in 2006. Because Hamas has been involved in many attacks against Israeli soldiers, it is considered a terrorist organization by the US allies and Israel, who don’t recognize the Gaza government. In fact, the Gaza Strip may be a pressure cooker due to the Israel containment policy, coupled with the endemic poverty and unemployment rate, may soon give rise to an army of fearless mujahidin.

More than 60 people killed in Gaza during protests on the 15th of May. Who is to blame? Hamas knew the potential risks by encouraging young people to protest at the Gaza frontier, take their children with them, burn tires and try to cross the border. The soldiers, who were prompt in shooting at these people reacted like slaughterers.

In the Israeli territory, the picture looks much better for the Arabs, who account for about 20% of the population. Israeli laws grant equal rights to all inhabitants in Israel, no matter which religion they worship. Most Arabs living in the Israeli region can obtain Israeli citizenship. I have seen many Arab-Israeli cultural centers. The vast majority of people strive to live in peace among the different confessions. It is common to see mixed groups of Muslims and Jews walking together. In all big cities in Israel, you can notice how the two communities are mixed and are bound to live together. For the majority of Jews, with secular position, this situation is accepted. However, we see a phenomenon of separation inside Israel too. Some cities remain mostly Jewish or Arab, like Acre, that has a visible Arab majority. The same walls used to protect Jewish settlements in the West bank are also used inside Israel, to separate the Jewish areas from the Arab ones.

Acre, an Arab city in Israel.

The ancient Orthodox St George Church, in the vicinity of Bethlehem, is traditionally maintained by a Muslim family. Some other Christian churches, such as the St Sepulchre church in Jerusalem, also follows this principle.

Going to Israel and witnessing it for myself, clearly helped me to build my own opinion on the Palestinian question. Without referring to Biblical times, the Arabs were living on Israel’s lands long before the Jews came. The arrival of the Jews just after WWII was sometimes done with violence and forced resettlement of the Arabs. The Palestinians even have a term to remind of the worst episodes of this conquest, the Nakba. Now that the Jews are there, it’s time to settle these dark times of history and move on. Israel should have a concrete roadmap to ease relationships with Palestine. There are many ways, and many people willing to solve the settlement and Gaza issues. In the long run, you cannot control a territory and then, stifle it economically, nor can you deprive equal rights to its inhabitants. You cannot call yourself a country, and have a quarter of your territory in an ambiguous status. Most Jews in Israel do not deny the right of Palestine to exist as a nation and a country, simply because they live with the Palestinians. The problem is the 10% or so of Israeli population, mainly pro-Netanyahu Haredi Jews, who actively uses religious cause to build settlements in the West Bank, or to relax on Gaza Beaches with Israeli flags. Netanyahu looks mainly for their support for his political purposes, instead of setting a path for a double-nation constitution. The absence of a clear roadmap to ease the relationships with the Arabs fuels open hatred towards Israel by the majority of Muslims countries. The Palestinian side has the same problems with the Arabs, willing to take their revenge on Israel and fully destroy it. Many Jews then have the feeling that Israel must protect itself from the Palestinian hostility and aspirations to take over Jewish prosperity. These fanatics force the large majority of Jews and Arabs with more constructive views to take a stronger position in their conflict. The results are frequent terrorist attacks, walls being built between the West Bank and Israeli territories, perpetual military atmosphere, and blockades

Having said that, Israel is safe for travelers, but less so for their wallets. It is not a cheap destination by any means. Israel reminded me more of Sweden than the average Mediterranean country. A glass of wine cost $10. A lunch: $30 minimum per person. Hotels are also overpriced.

Tel-Aviv is basically the enlargement of the old medieval city Jaffa. The city started to grow exponentially after the foundation of Israel, in 1948. It is now a big and modern city with a vibrant nightlife.

The Tel Aviv skyline mixes modern architecture with ancient Arab buildings, such as the Hassan Bek Mosque.

The fountain of the Mahmudiyya Mosque at Jaffa, Tel Aviv.

Four thousands buildings were built in the 50’ adopting the modern Bauhaus style.

The variety of food in Tel-Aviv suits both meat lovers and vegans.

If you come to Israel for a long weekend, remember about Shabbat, every Saturday, which is a general closure day. Traditional Jews do not use any kind of electric appliances that day. They do not use the electric oven, nor lifts. For example, a Shabbat lift operates like a metro: hop-in, hop-off.

Tiberias Lake:

Situated in the rift between the African and Arab plates, the Tiberias Lake (a.k.a Galilee Sea) is 200 meters below sea level. The lake hosts numerous fish, such as the delicious St Peter’s fish. In the background, the Golan Heights, conquered by Israel from Syria after the six-day war.

The Mount of Beatitude church was financed by the Mussolini regime in 1934 and is still managed by an Italian mission. Jesus Christ is said to have pronounced the famous “The Beatitudes”, in Matthew 5:5, “Blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted…”

Caesarea

Once one of the biggest and most magnificent Roman cities in the Mediterranean Sea, named after Caesar by Herod to honor his ruler, Caesarea’s size is still impressive and you will perfectly see its splendor by visiting the hippodrome, the theatre, the byzantine cellars, and the crusaders chapel.

Haifa is the main port in Israel, and the second biggest city. The view from above the gardens of Haifa and the port is worth the stop in the city. The city has a large proportion of Arabs, making it a good example of a “mixed city”. That’s how people call Israel cities where both Jews and Arabs coexist peacefully.

As a leisure traveler, I was not so enthusiastic after my visit to Israel, like I was after visiting Greece or Lebanon. The expensiveness of food and drinks daunted me all along my trip. However, this trip left me with two greater rewards. The first one is the feeling that you follow Biblical events and places, like in Galilee Lake and Bethlehem. The second one is a much better understanding of the local situation, so difficult to grasp by reading only news articles. If these themes inspire your curiosity, you will get the most out of your visit to Israel.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2018/05/13/israel/feed/0Western WallzelechowskiTips for Making your First Time in Japan more Comfortablehttps://flypigs.com/2017/08/06/tips-for-making-your-first-time-in-japan-more-comfortable/
https://flypigs.com/2017/08/06/tips-for-making-your-first-time-in-japan-more-comfortable/#respondSun, 06 Aug 2017 12:21:14 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=887Continue reading →]]>

The Kasuga shinto shrine in Nara

Going to Japan was haunting my dreams for more than a decade. Japan is a long distance flight; I should thoroughly prepare my trip, I thought. What if people don’t understand English and will be unable to help? Perfection paralysis made me postpone for years my decision to book a plane ticket. Then, on the spur of the moment and with little preparation, I was finding myself in Tokyo and it turned out to be the best decision !

There are numerous excellent resources on Japan, on its culture, food…So this post only gives some tips on what you can get from a 7-day trip to Japan with visiting Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara.

The easiest way to travel in Japan is by train with a Japan Rail Pass. The JR Pass currently costs about 280 USD for 7 days for an unlimited personal use on JR network. It is a gesture from the Ministry of tourism to promote Japan, so only non-residents are eligible to buy it. It is already worth buying the JR Pass If you plan to travel at least once to a big city outside Tokyo. The pass also works with the Narita Express train from the Tokyo airport and the Tokyo circular Yamanote metro line, so not only will you save money with it, but you will save time on not having to buy a ticket each time.

Trains in Japan are second-to-none: clean, fast and reliable. The bullet train Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto makes the 450 km in only 2h40.

Public transport in Japan may be a bit confusing the first day, but don’t worry: It is easy to get free maps, and everything is well explained and indicated. In Tokyo, deposit metro passes (Suica, Pasmo) are bought in automatic sales points.

Free Wifi Internet is widely available in public spaces, but if you feel the need of being connected all the time, you can grab a eConnect wifi hotspot at Narita.

It is considered that the best time for coming to Japan is springtime for cherry tree blossom and autumn, when maple trees redden. This is also when hotels are busy and more expensive. Japan has 138 million inhabitants with one of the highest GDP on earth, so the flow of national tourists makes room rates to fluctuate greatly. Avoid coming during the last week of April and the first week of May due to national holidays, when Japanese people travel all around Japan at the same time. Beware of Japan’s strong contrast between seasons. I suffered a 36 degres heat in July. August is usually as hot.

Eating in Japan is not difficult at all. In all the cities I visited, there are restaurants or cafes at every corner. Very often, you can see in restaurants’ windows exact replicas in plastic of the dishes served, with the price.

To make your choice easier, menus in Japanese restaurants usually show pictures. Even if these photos and samples are typically in “tourist-friendly” restaurants, quality is always good. Japanese people are not careless when it comes to food – you are not in Montmartre! (*)

For making sushi, rice preparation and cutting fish take years to master.

Tokyo fish market: Fresh fish is ubiquitous and not expensive in Japan. And yes, saying that sushi in Japan are really awesome is like saying nothing!

Just one thing to remember when eating out – Payment cards are far from being accepted everywhere and ATM are not as frequent as in Europe. As a rule, caring at least 5,000 yens in cash is a wise option. Coins are widely used, so a solid purse will also help.

The encounter with Japanese people.

Japanese people are extremely welcoming towards foreign visitors, polite and prompt to help you in case of necessity. In Tokyo, English is widely spoken by most passersby. To make the first contact easier, it greatly helps to learn some words in Japanese: konitchiva (hello), arigato (thank you), sumimasen (excuse me, I beg your pardon), or Kudasai (please).

A second feature that makes Japan clearly stand out from most countries I know is organization. Japanese people are experts in clear work procedures and instructions.

There is a clear procedure in Japan for everything.

Everything seems in control and works properly. There are many reasons for this. For example, Japanese people have a mindset prone to visualization. Japanese writing system is partly made by Kanji symbols, which are read as pictures. The worldly adopted working method “Kanban” also heavily relies on visualization techniques.

A Russian joke says you can endlessly watch water, fire and… men working. This scene illustrates perfectly Japanese sense of right working methods: Teamwork, fenced workplace, signs “Do not touch”, wooden plank in order not to step on the fresh cement…

Japanese people, as it is often said, have a different relationship with their work than we, Europeans, do. They don’t see their work as a mere material result, but as the fruit of their working process. The proper way or art, Do, is a long path to follow. People learn it, and are not expected to criticize it. This influences their work as well.

Another peculiar thing in Japan is that people consider cleanliness and unclutteredness as a respect for the harmony on Earth and one of the principles of Shintoism. Their living place must be neat, kami.

The traditional Japanese house can illustrate this:

These workers did these cement works the same way. The result was perfect!

Japanese professionals are concentrated at work, but from times to times, they go for a drink with their colleagues after work, and then they manage to behave in a less formal way. This is nomikai hour! Japanese even have a word for speaking more openly after work, honne.

Pedestrian streets in Tokyo are not as common as the picture below:

Tokyo, with its skyscrapers, motorway bridges, plenty of department stores and vibrant nightlife has everything of a modern city.

If you like a more relaxing stay, then go to Nara. Situated 45 km from Kyoto, Nara was Japan’s first capital during the 8th century. The city managed to keep its historic atmosphere, with small streets, temples, parks.

The park around Kasuga Shrine is home to more than 1,300 deer that roam freely and are not afraid of humans.

The Kofukuji five storied pagoda, in Nara, is situated on a hill, from which you have a nice view on the city. Nearby there is a pond, where you can observe turtles and red carps.

Why not indulge yourself with some sweets at Mr Jiochiro Kita’s famous pastry shop in Nara? His cooking is a pleasure for both the palate and the eyes.

A sumo fight in Nara. Sumo fights are very popular in Japan. Sumotori, or sumo wrestlers, have very strong legs. They train themselves by squatting down and standing up on one leg.

Kyoto hosts hundreds of temples and old monuments. It is a big city, where landmarks are not within walking distance. Besides, Kyoto by itself is made mostly of concrete apartment blocks, so walking in it is not a pleasant experience. You can easily manage to visit Kyoto using public transports, but given the fact you don’t visit Kyoto everyday, it’s worth using taxis (25 USD for a 10 minutes’ drive) or private tours.

Rokuon-Ji, the Golden Temple

Rokuon-Ji, the Golden Temple, is often ranked as Kyoto’s top landmark. If for some reasons you missed it, do not have any regrets. The truth is it is packed with tourists, walking along the pathway as a herd and ending into shops selling postcards. You will enjoy far more Kyoto in less crowded places, such as the Philosophers’ pathway or in the gardens of the Eikando Zeirin-Ji temple.

Above, Eikando Zeirin-Ji gardens

Above, the Ginkakuji, or Silver Pavilion, in Kyoto, surrounded by lovely gardens, is not too busy if you go at opening time.

Seven days eating Japanese delicacies and being constantly surprised by some new models of automatic toilet went by like water in open hands. Before my departure, a Russian friend told me: -“ If you fulfil your ultimate dream, so what will remain to you?”. Actually, these few days only aroused my desire to come back to Japan. Only I would go further off the beaten tracks into the great variety of spiritual experiences Japan may offer.

(*): Montmartre is a picturesque place in Paris, where restaurants usually leave tourists with the feeling that French food is bad and expensive.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2017/08/06/tips-for-making-your-first-time-in-japan-more-comfortable/feed/0SONY DSCzelechowskiNorilsk and the Putorana Mountainshttps://flypigs.com/2016/09/20/norilsk-and-the-putorana-mountains/
https://flypigs.com/2016/09/20/norilsk-and-the-putorana-mountains/#respondTue, 20 Sep 2016 18:36:13 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=829Continue reading →]]>In a new attempt to go off the beaten track, I felt thrilled, when I was offered to go above the Arctic Circle to a remote place accessible only by air, and closed to foreigners.

Have you ever heard about Norilsk? Norilsk is an industrial city in Russia, about 400 km north of the Arctic Circle. Norilsk is the world’s northernmost city with more than 100,000 inhabitants. Its population reaches 220,000, if you include temporary workers. The administrative center of the region, Krasnoyarsk, is situated 1,600 km far from Norilsk.

The city was founded in the 1930’s in the middle of nowhere and its heavy industry has been thriving since then. The region has the biggest deposits of nickel, copper and palladium in the world, as well as abundant and accessible coal deposits.

As a result, Norilsk metal smelting complex accounts for more than 20 % of the global nickel production and 50 percent for palladium. All the smelting plants are managed by one single company, Norilsk Nickel, which is the city mainstay and makes up more than 2 percent of Russia’s GDP.

The way Norilsk is seen by people greatly depends if you are a visitor or a local inhabitant. Visitors’ first vision of the city are tall chimney stacks and a cloud of smog.

The winter season is lengthy and severe, 9 months of harsh cold and snow. These extreme conditions may result in nervousness and anxiety for many inhabitants. When the glacial artic wind calms down, atmospheric pollution becomes a real issue. Nearly 4 mln tons of lead, cadmium, arsenic, sulphur and other toxic chemicals are released into the air every year.

The cartoon says: “Only infinite emptiness…I would be better on Mars. City of Norilsk”

You get used to everything. For local inhabitants, living in the harsh conditions of the Siberian winter, the city is a shelter and a provider of wages. The city is clean, in a good state, and with billboards praising Norilsk workers for their courage at work.

The soil of the Norilsk plain is permanently frozen at one meter depth. During summertime, molten snow forms marshes and lakes. Without a specialized amphibious vehicule, it is impossible to leave Norilsk by land.

Our MIL-8 at Irkindinskaya River.

The MIL-8 is the preferred option to admire the landscapes of the Norilsk Region from the sky. This twin-turbine helicopter, with an astonishing maximum take-off weight of 12 tons, can carry up to 24 people. The MIL-8 was first built in 1961 and it is still produced today.

As our chopper slowly rose into the skies, we flew to one of the Russian landmarks, the Putorana Mountains.

The Putorana Mountains, also called Putorana Plateau due to its flattened highlands is a territory roughly the size of Great Britain, situated 200 km from the nearest big city, Norilsk.

The Putorana Mountains are almost entirely part of the Putorana National Park, classified as a world heritage site by UNESCO.

Apart from their location cut off from the world, beautiful forests, diverse wildlife, crystal-clear lakes, the Putorana Mountains contain a fascinating energy, due to their volcanic origin.

The local Siberian inhabitants, the Evenks, consider the Putorana Mountains a sacred place – the abode of the God of Fire. This belief could be the remnant from the past eruptions in Putorana that occurred only 4-5 thousands years ago.

The whole of Putorana plateau are the remains of a super volcano that was active 252 mln years ago. There were only two volcanoes of that size in the history of the Earth, the second one being in India. Numerous scientists consider this volcano as the origin of the Perm Massive Extinction, that killed almost all sea animals and two-third of earth creatures, by ejecting fumes and ashes and changing drastically the Earth atmosphere. This volcanic activity was followed by the Mezozoic era, when the dinosaurs emerged.

The volcanic activity and tectonic plate movement are the causes of the complex geology near Norilsk, that include of the richest deposits of various rare metals on earth.

The picturesque Krasnye Stolby waterfall runs through basaltic pillars. Columnar basalt is typically created when lava cool down slowly, creating regular cracks, just like the mud when it dries out.

The Putorana Mountains are nicknamed «the land of a thousand lakes and a thousand waterfalls». The combined volume of all freshwater in Putorana lakes is second only to that of lake Baikal.

The Keta Lake with the mountains in the background are typical of the Putorana landscape: canyons and tectonic faults filled by narrow and deep lakes.

Tokingda River.

The Tokingda River, in the Putorana Mountains, flows into Lake Keta. A boat is the easiest way to explore the area as the forest is dense and shores are muddy, full of tracks left by bears and wolves.

Being in a northern forest is magical! The floor is covered with moss, lichens and berries. You have the sensation of walking on pillows. The smell of pinewood and mushrooms is so persistent that you want the swallow the air. The only inconvenience are the numerous mosquitoes that attack any naked part of your skin.

Lake Keta is full of pike and Arctic char, a salmon-like fish, known as golets in Russian. Just throw anything glittering with a hook and you can eat fresh sashimi for dinner.

This experience convinced me once again that solitude, wilderness and pristine nature are values that neither come easily and nor are cheap, but there are worth it.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2016/09/20/norilsk-and-the-putorana-mountains/feed/0SONY DSCzelechowskiSONY DSCnorilsk-desert-landSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCSONY DSCThe sweet taste of Armeniahttps://flypigs.com/2016/06/15/the-sweet-taste-of-armenia/
https://flypigs.com/2016/06/15/the-sweet-taste-of-armenia/#commentsWed, 15 Jun 2016 20:28:45 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=813Continue reading →]]>Last week, while having lunch at my company cafeteria, my colleague Ashot was surprised when I told him that last weekend I went to Yerevan, his native city in Armenia. Indeed, Armenia would not come immediately in mind for a recreational trip, but this is definitely a country you should visit if you like authentic destinations.

The flights from Moscow to Yerevan are numerous and take less than three hours. As the plane was approaching the landing strip, I saw the two summits of the Ararat mountain range. The smallest one has a perfectly symmetrical shape of a volcano and was capped with snow.

Armenia is roughly the size of Belgium with a decent road network. To make the most of our time in Armenia for the weekend, we hired a car with a driver and a guide, which is relatively cheap. Our guide, Irina, from Hyur Tours, told us many interesting things about Armenia.

I found Yerevan to be a nice, quiet and harmonious place. In the centre, facades are clad with a volcanic pink stone. The city has been fully reshaped in 1924 under an urban plan led by the general architect Tamanian. Despite cold winters and its altitude at about 1,000m above sea level, the climate in Yerevan is generally warm and dry.

The Republic square in Yerevan was completed in 1958. The fountain light and music show make it an agreeable place for an evening walk.

The Ararat distillery in Yerevan has been producing an award-winning brandy since 1887. Brandy is one of the major exported products from Armenia, mostly to Russia.

The Yerevan market can feed you free of charge! Just walk along the different shops and you will be immediately offered huge portions of dried fruits, which, I was told, can be shelved for up to 3 years.

Unlike its neighbors, Azerbaijan and Iran, Armenia has few natural resources. The export economy is mostly based on agriculture, especially fruits. The electricity that is produced is generated from a single nuclear power plant. Other exports include cement and building materials.

Armenia is also renowned for its jewelry. It has a gold processing plant, gem mines (for moonstone and obsidian) and a watch factory.

Like in many places throughout the Caucasus, Armenia has a lot of thermal water, which also makes for a significant part of the export revenues.

Communicating with Armenian people is easy if you speak Russian, as almost everybody I met spoke Russian very fluently. English tends to be spreading quickly too, but still lags behind Russian. This is because many TV channels are in Russian and foreign movies are typically in Russian version. Armenians have an astonishing capacity for reading easily three completely different alphabets from school age – In English “Hello”, in Russian «Здравствуйте», in Armenian “Ողջու՜յն”. Confusing, isn’t it?

For many Armenians, Russian is associated with a certain nostalgia of the USSR period, when everybody had a job and the factories were working at full capacity. The collapse of the USSR was a shock for the majority of Armenians. Massive privatization ensued; factory equipment was sold for metal scrap.

Having the internet, the freedom of travelling and the possibility of making profit in business don’t mask the fact that Armenia economy is in a dire situation with a 40% unemployment rate. Many people rely on help from relatives living abroad and massive investment projects don’t take place without the help of the numerous Armenian diaspora. For example, one of the biggest infrastructure projects, the 3 km long Dilijan tunnel, was finished thanks to foreign investments.

The average income in Armenia is roughly 200 USD per month, however, Yerevan with its vibrant city life, with its abundance of luxury cars, contrasts sharply with the humble rural lifestyle, that has not changed much for centuries.

We left Yerevan for one day to drive about 50 km northward to the Lake Sevan.

Below: Sevanavank Monastery

The Sevanavank Monastery was established as early as in the 4th century. It is said Armenia was the first country to embrace Christianity (Although this status is disputed with Ethiopia). The current design, inspired by Byzantine churches, dates back to the 9th century. The Sevanavank Monastery is certainly worth a visit if you don’t pay too much attention to the numerous souvenirs shops and hotels nearby. You can reconcile yourself with the place by trying a local crayfish kebab, which is the Lake Sevan specialty.

Below: St. Hripsime chapel (also known as St. Gyorgi chapel), Goshavank monastery (13th century), is not far from the Lake Sevan.

At Goshavank, behind a stone wall, I stumbled upon a tomb plate, called a “khachkar”, so finely chiseled, that it bears a name: “The Needlecarved”.

Khachkars are typical of Armenian medieval cemeteries. Then, I also discovered quite a disturbing story that I studied more carefully afterwards; the massive and senseless destruction of the biggest Armenian necropolis at Djulfa.

With hundreds of khachkars, the Djulfa cemetery was a unique historical heritage that was destroyed in 1998 by the Azeri army in an attempt to erase all traces of the Armenian presence in the Region. Some khachkars have been saved and brought to Armenia, but most of the cemetery was reduced to an empty plot by bulldozers with the same rage as the destruction of the Buddhas of Bamiyan by the Talibans, or Palmyra in 2015 by the Islamic State (1) .

Djulfa is situated at the frontier between Iran and an enclaved Azerbaijan region, cutoff from the main territory by the Armenia-controlled Nagorno-Karabah Region. This area is a puzzle of disputed territories. The last major armed conflict in Nagorno-Karabah sparked in 1994, but sporadic gunshots occurred in spring 2016. The official website of Azerbaijan openly fuels hatred and propaganda against Armenians, so tensions seem not to be appeased any time soon. Having said that, a trip to Armenia is very safe.

Two days in Armenia are too short a time to encompass the hundreds of highlights the country may offer. I feel sorry for having missed Tatev, the monastery flanked on a top of a cliff, and Garni, a well-preserved Roman temple. The first step is the most difficult, and this trip only aroused my desire to come back.

(1): Islamic State is an organization illegal in Russia.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2016/06/15/the-sweet-taste-of-armenia/feed/2goshavank monastery armeniazelechowskiYerevan Republic squareyerevan brandy araratyerevan fruit marketarmenian villager horsesevanavank monastery armeniaarmenia hochkar crossWine on the Burgundy Canalhttps://flypigs.com/2015/06/11/wine-on-the-burgundy-canal/
https://flypigs.com/2015/06/11/wine-on-the-burgundy-canal/#commentsThu, 11 Jun 2015 11:34:32 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=801Continue reading →]]>This small post is not about a fareway, exotic place. It is about a travel out of time in the good old France, along the Canal of Burgundy and the Cote d’Or vineyards.

Calmly stretching along hills, forests and fields, walking along the the Canal of Burgundy brings you a feeling of peace of mind.

Beaver-like coypuses were brought from South-America in the 19th century for their fur and are now very common in the Canal of Burgundy, to a point their number must be regulated.

The canal is 242 km in length, with 190 locks and a 3.3 km tunel at is highest point. The Canal of Burgundy is at the junction of an intricated system of canals between the Seine and the Saone rivers, allowing boats to navigate from Paris to Lyons. Its construction was planned as early as in the 17th century, but finally works began in 1775 until the Canal was open in 1832. Unfortunately, when the canal was finished, its traffic was mainly taken away by railway, faster and more convenient. Now the canal is used exclusively by leisure boats.

Did you know that you can charter a barge on the canal? The top-notch option will be one of the several luxury barges, like “L’impressioniste”, managed by European Waterways (www.gobarging.com).

The barge “L’impressioniste” slowly enters a lock. Soon, the lock keeper will push manually the door lever, in the foreground, allowing the barge to continue her journey.

Navigating on the “L’impressioniste” is a perfect way for discovering the Burgundy wines of the Côte d’Or slopes, located very close. Burgundy wines are considered, along with the Bordeaux wines, as the most prestigious wines in the world.

In Burgundy, vineyards plots are usually small: 6 hectares on average, which is twice as small as the average surface in France.

Romanée Conti Southern wall.

Romanée-Conti is the smallest vineyard if France, only 1.6 hectare, shared by two owners. There are only 3,500 bottles produced per year. Rare means expensive: the average price for a Romanée-Conti bottle is minimum 6,000 USD, with some milesimes sold at 10,000 USD. This liquid ruby is typically sold at wine auctions or high-end restaurants, so, if you are offered to buy such a wine in other conditions, be leery of counterfeits!

Most vineyards in Burgundy are delimited by walls. Lots of wine producers are named “clos”, which means “monastery property”, because initially many vineyards were created by local monasteries. Now the name “clos” is simply synonym for the word “chateau” in Bordeaux. Burgundy wine producers kept this tradition of keeping walls, made up of stones assembled with no cement as walls protect from the wind, prevent erosion, gives the vineyard more stable conditions.

Clos de Vougeot is classified as Grand Cru wine. The whole vineyard, delimited by a tall stone wall, makes 50 hectare, but it is divided into more than 20 producers. Clos de Vougeot is a landmark in Burgundy as the medieval castle, lovely in itself, hosts a well-documented museum on the local wine history, including ancient wine casks and wooden grape crushers.

Bouchard & Fils, Beaune is a “negociant”, that is a middleman between the grape producers and the client. The company owns some vineyards and also buys grapes and wines from other producers. Traditionally, a “negociant” wine is considered less prestigious than the wine directly made by the producer. However, this rule doesn’t apply to Bouchard, whose knowledge in Burgundy wines since the 18th century, guaranties a high quality of their products. This bottle of “Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus” is a good choice to enjoy a typical Burgundy wine.

A waiter told me the opinion shared by local wine specialists : “- Aloxe-Corton, Pommard, Vosnes-Romanée…They think the world turns around them ! ”They produce only a limited amount of bottles a year, while demand for them, especially from new overseas markets is always growing. As a result, prices are steadily high and even rise regularly. But they are plenty of other, less renowned, villages that produce very decent, yet affordable wines”

I asked this waiter for a tip on where to buy that kind of wine and I was sent to Mr Laurent Jeanniard, in the village of Corgoloin, between Beaune and Nuit-Saint-George, who produces many sorts of wine since 2006. His parents are also wine producers at Morey-Saint-Denis.

We particularly appreciated two “generic” Bourgogne – that is not classified as 1er Cru wines – A delicious white Chardonnay, matured 12 months in oak casks and a well-balanced red 2010 Pinot Noir. You can have a similar pleasure than with a 1er Cru, but your wallet will be preserved.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2015/06/11/wine-on-the-burgundy-canal/feed/1zelechowskiCanal of BurgundyCoypusescanal burgundy impressionistRomanee conti wallClos VougeotVigne de l'enfant Jesuslaurent jeanniardFearless Russian Bikers To Start Victory Journeyhttps://flypigs.com/2015/04/25/fearless-russian-bikers-to-start-victory-journey/
https://flypigs.com/2015/04/25/fearless-russian-bikers-to-start-victory-journey/#respondSat, 25 Apr 2015 15:09:56 +0000http://flypigs.com/?p=789Continue reading →]]>Despite chilly wind and sporadic snow, unusual for this period of year in Moscow, there were thousands of motorcyclists today at the motorcycle season opening ceremony. The party took place at the Bike Centre Sexton in the West of Moscow. This place is a Mecca for all Russian bikers, as it is the den of the Russian biker club The Night Wolves, which is led by the charismatic “Surgeon”.

The Surgeon, alias Alexander Zaldostanov, before the bikers convoy departure.

At 10 am, the Bike Centre was already packed with die-hard bikers, visitors and journalists. The atmosphere was festive, with live music. The Night Wolves have a good experience of organizing parties. They hold for many years a huge rock festival in Sevastopol, Crimea. Today, at the entrance, a band from Cuba performed famous latino songs. Dozens of police officers on motorbike were also attending, to make sure the convoy moves easily through the city.

The departure signal has just been given. The place is now full of roaring engines !

This time, however, you could feel something tense in the atmosphere. The Night Wolves plan to leave Moscow today to start a 5000 km long journey through Europe, via Belarus, Poland, The Czech Republic and Germany. They are to arrive in Berlin on the 9th of May to lay some flowers at the Treptov Park, the war memorial to the Soviet Soldier. Some Polish and Czech activists asked their government not to let the Russian bikers cross their country, claiming they are the symbol of the Russian aggression against the West. Now, Poland officially has forbidden the Russian convoy from entering its territory, despite massive support to the Wolves from Polish bikers. It’s a long and tiring trip they prepared for a long time, so let’s hope that they will find a way in to be welcomed by their European supporters.

The Night Wolves statue with a badge reading: “Attacking Russia is attacking myself”

For those of you who would ask whether I support the Wolves views on politics, the annexation of Crimea or ties with Putin, I would answer no. They have categorical positions on many sensitive questions. But on the other hand, they think in huge scale, everything they set up is impressive and bound to success. Their deeds for the social issues, the orphans, the disabled make them deserve my respect. The Night Wolves have become a colorful part of Russia.

Close your jacket and open the gas!

Please wait! Cannot find my keys!

At exactly 12:40 pm, as scheduled, the pack of Russian bikers sat on the machines and rode in the Moscow streets. What a feeling! No cars! Only motorcycles in a kilometer long convoy, like a powerful giant snake! A huge urban community united to celebrate the forthcoming sunny days! Let’s wish everybody a warm and safe season!

Update Monday 27 April: Polish border guards prevented the Night Wolves from entering Poland. Pity for them. Let’s hope these ferocious 20 bikers far from home will find a way into EU via another country.

Vietnam, its jungles, its beaches, its food so exotic, its colonial past. All this sounded familiar to me. When I was six, my best schoolmate was born in Saigon. His parents had a Vietnamese restaurant in the north of Paris. I used to eat there almost every day for many years, as his grandmother, Mrs Julie Nguyen, who managed the place, always took great care of us. She told me many stories about the French rule, the war, how they manage to go to France as refugees. I spent some time going to Vietnamese food stores or observing how springrolls or Pho soups were prepared. At that time, I would have never believed I would visit Vietnam one day. So to me, Vietnam is not only a now popular holiday destination, but above all an atmosphere I left since my childhood.

After having landed at Hanoi airport, the humid and stiffling Asian heat mixed with a smell of exotic fruits put me back into this atmosphere.

A student girl in Hanoi.

The Hanoi Opera House by night.

Vietnam has plenty of landmarks accessible by numerous roads or a good airline network. Given the size of the country, 1000 km from the North to the South, in one week I had to limit myself to four places; Hue, Hoi An, Da Lat, and Hanoi, all figuring in the tourist top list.

Hue was the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty (19 – mid-20 centuries). The city is extensive and has a lot to beautiful temples to show. The main place to visit there is Hue impressive palace. Call me an occidental ignorant mixing up styles, but the size and the atmosphere of Hue Palace made me think of the Beijing Forbidden City.

Han cryptograms on the roof of Hue Purple Palace.

Unlike other Asian scripts, Vietnamese is written with Latin letters, which were invented by a French missionary, Alexandre de Rhode, in 1651. The Latin letters replaced the Chinese Han cryptograms only in 1918, as a move towards western influence and to distanciate from the pervasive Chinese culture. It is also believed that the Latin alphabet is easier to master for a child than learning by heart thousands of cryptograms. Han cryptograms are still used today in religious buildings and cemeteries as traditional language.

Not far from Hue, there is the picturesque city of Hoi An. You may find it too much tourist-oriented, but the old French architecture, thousands of small paper lamps in the evening and dozens of fine dining restaurant with good service make this place a must go sightseeing in Vietnam.

The Japanese Bridge in Hoi An.

The ubiquitious Pho soup feeds well, is balanced, is very cheap but…spicy!

You can easily rent a scooter to ride 30 km from Hoi An along the picturesques rice fields, and see the impressive ruins of My Son, built by the Cham civilisation in 4-14th century.

The Cham were Hinduist. That’s why the Cham towers are often adorned with apsaras, beautiful dancing ladies, and built in a typical pyramid shape believed to represent the Mount Meru, the Hindu sacred mountain. Although My Son is much smaller in size than Angkor Wat in neighbouring Cambodia, considering a large majority of its architecture was destroyed by US massive bombing, it is interresting to know that the Chams conqueered and ruled over Angkor for 30 years.

From Hoi An, I edged toward Da Lat, where the fresh, chilly mountaneous air contrasts with the tropical heat along the coast. No wonder Da Lat was the favourite place for the French, who left the city totally transformed into a little French town.

This picture was not taken in Becons-Les-Bruyeres, but in Da Lat!

Although now under construction, don’t miss the Crazy House, aka Hang Nga Guesthouse, in Da Lat. It was built by Dang Viet Nga, a former student of the Moscow School of Architecture. Her dream was to have a fairy house. You recognize in it the influence of Escher and Gaudi.

The Bao Dai’s Summer Palace at Da Lat is built in a Art Deco style (French Modernist version for public buildings), en vogue in the 30’. Bao Dai was the last Vietnamese emperor, installed by the French as their puppet ruler.

Da Lat administration is obviously proud of its colonial past: The city has two 100 m high telecommunication antennas in the shape of the Eiffel Tower!

On the way to Hanoi, the road was jammed with earth moving machines. Roads, bridges, dams are being built massively throughout the country, financed both by the government and by private funds, including funds from Korea or Japan. For long, Vietnam was reputed a poor nation, but that not the impression visitors will get now.Last decade reforms lead Vietnam on a similar economic path that the one followed by China. As a result, after having suffered from a continuous war during tree decades and hunger, the poverty rate passed from 75% to 12 % in 10 years. The pace is accelerating to a point that Vietnam is valued as a new Asian dragon. Investments in infrastructure are sky-high.Nowadays, the Vietnamese society, politics, economics and religion seem to live together in balance.

Vesak, the celebration of Buddha’s birth, is celebrated in Vietnam. Hundreds of decorated vans look like an endless colorful cargo train. Vesak festivities were constrained under the US-backed regime of President Diem.

A member of the Communist Youth.

Vietnam is one of the last one-party communist countries in the world, but the regime doesn’t reject partnership with a limited company on on a communist billboard featuring Ho Chi Minh.

Everywhere throughout Vietnam I saw billboards commemorating Vietnam’s greatest military feats. This one celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Dien Bien Phu battle against the French in 1954, which ultimately led to the French leaving the Indochina colony for good.

On almost all houses, you can see a Vietnamese flag. Vietnamese are very patriotic, and this feature only strengthened during the war. Although the Communist party uses patriotic slogans for their political purposes, Communists are associated in Vietnamese minds with independence, reunification and victory.

When I lived in France, the general image I got about Vietnam at school and in the cinema was definitely pro-Western. For example, the Vietnam War was associated in my mind with movies like Platoon, heroic American soldiers walking in the jungle surrounded by fierce Viet Cong guerillas.

“-Washington, we gonna get out of this jungle. You’ll see your home in Alabama again!”

Then, you start your trip by reading books in the plane, you visit monuments and battlefields, you talk with locals, you discover more deeply the history of the country you visit, and many of your prejudices fade away.

Looking back at the History, I pointed out some facts that contrast the most with the image I had of the two wars that affected Vietnam in the 20th century.

During the WWII, Japan took control of the weakened French Indochina. The US being at war with Japan, they allied with the Viet Minh army, led by Ho Chi Minh, to hamper Japanese actions and to help rescue American pilots.

Born in Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh was educated in France, where he became a founding member of the French Communist Party in the 20’. He was then invited to the USSR, where he studied at the Moscow University. He was already seen as a Communist leader. In 1924, he went to China, where he set up a group of exiled Vietnamese Communists. He returned to Vietnam in 1941. Apart from Vietnamese, Ho Chi Minh spoke fluently English, French, Chinese, German and Russian.

Following the German defeat in 1945, the Allies held the Conference of Potsdam to settle war issues. During the conference, the French managed to convince the Allies to get back all French Indochina. Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia should again be French colonies after the Japanese leave. That was one of the key elements sparking the conflict in Vietnam.

As soon as Japan surrenders, the Viet Minh occupies Hanoi, in North Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh proclaims the independence of Vietnam, infuriating the French. Finally, the French sent troops in 1945 trying to regain Vietnam, starting the First Indochina War.

The Viet Minh retaliated by launching several attacks against the French. The independance war took also ideological aspects as the Viet Minh was clearly a communist movement, supported by Chinese Mao Zedong, while the French and the anti-communist Vietnamese forces were backed by the United States.

In the US, during the witch hunts of the McCarthyism, no politician wanted to look tolerant with Communism. Newly elected President Eisenhower offered military support to the French to prevent a Communist victory in Vietnam. Eisenhower explained his decision by using a ‘Domino Theory’ in which a Communist victory in Vietnam would result in surrounding countries falling one after another like a “falling row of dominoes.” The Domino Theory was the main argument to justify lenghty U.S. involvement in Vietnam.

In 1953, the French were surrounded by Viet Minh soldiers at Dien Bien Phu, loosing ground and asking urgently operational help from the US that ultimately was denied.

The French defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954 led to the Geneva Accords, in which Vietnam is divided in half at the 17th parallel. Ho Chi Minh is given the North, while US-backed Bao Dai’s regime is granted the South. The accords also provide for elections to be held in all of Vietnam within two years to reunify the country. The U.S. opposes the unifying elections, fearing a likely victory by Ho Chi Minh.

In the South, Bao Dai has installed Ngo Dinh Diem, a Roman Catholic, as his prime minister. But soon after, the US help Diem take the power by ousting Bao Dai and proclaiming the Republic of South Vietnam. In the meantime, the US military support has effectively started to strenghten the army of South Vietnam.

Diem’s autocratic style of leadership, his religion beliefs, his poor focus on social issues make him a controversial autority. He assigns most government positions to close friends and family members.

Eisenhower said of Diem that he is the “miracle man” of Asia and reaffirms U.S. commitment. “The cost of defending freedom, of defending America, must be paid in many forms and in many places…military as well as economic help is currently needed in Vietnam”.

The second Indochina War begins in 1959, when Ho Chi Minh declares a People’s War to unite all of Vietnam under his leadership. The Viet Cong, the North Communist army, launch several successful attacks on South Vietnamese positions. Diem requests more military help from the US.

On the sixth anniversary of the Republic of South Vietnam, Kennedy pledges to Diem : “the United States is determined to help Vietnam preserve its independence…”. Kennedy justifies the expanding U.S. military role as a means “…to prevent a Communist takeover of Vietnam which is in accordance with a policy our government has followed since 1954.” He later said: “If we withdrew from Vietnam, the Communists would control Vietnam. Pretty soon, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Malaya, would go…”

During his State of the Union address in 1962, Kennedy states, “Few generations in all of history have been granted the role of being the great defender of freedom in its maximum hour of danger. This is our good fortune…”. Soon after, he signed the Foreign Assistance Act which offers “…military assistance to countries which are on the rim of the Communist world and under direct attack.”

The South Vietnamese Army is run by officers personally chosen by President Diem, not for their competence, but for their loyalty to him. Diem has instructed his officers that their primary mission is to protect him from any coups in Saigon.

A friend of mine, who fled Vietnam with his parents, told me in Paris its own story of life in South Vietnam: “-I was born in Saigon the day when the last Americans were escaping from Vietnam, tilting up their helicopters, burning their archives, running to their planes…I was born in this South, in full political turmoil, at the beginning of the country reunification. My father was a young promising student. He was marching against the autocratic President Diem and the American occupation. He was arrested and forced to fight in the American side against his own ideals. Life was absurd at that time.

The day I was born, he was on a boat in the middle of the Sea of China, serving in the grade of captain.. He had the choice between coming back to Saigon or going to the American base and leaving his wife and son for long. (…). When he returned to his ship, he was arrested. He was close of being sentenced to death and was sent to a labor camp for four years. Then, like many others, with the mark of having served for the Americans, we had no other choice that to flee from the country, that’s how I ended up in France at the age of eight”.

Taking as a pretext an alleged attack on a US destroyer in 1964, the US army strongly recommended a retaliatory bombing raid against North Vietnam. Is is now admited that the destroyer had in fact been involved in the South Vietnamese commando raids against North Vietnam and was not the victim of an “unprovoked” attack.

“Our response for the present will be limited and fitting. We still seek no wider war.” Opinion polls indicate 85 % of Americans support bombing Vietnam.

US Defense Secretary McNamara stated “We shall provide whatever help is required to win the battle against the Communist insurgents.” The US now become focused on how to prevent a Communist victory in South Vietnam. The war moves to a proxy war with the USSR, against Communist ideology, with America’s global influence at stake. In 1965, USSR started providing the Viet Cong with heavy military weapons.

Paradoxally, the majority of bombs are dropped in South Vietnam against the Viet Cong positions, but killing also numerous civilians. The US will soon authorize the use of Napalm, a petroleum based bomb that burns everything around upon impact.

During a press conference, President Johnson said : “…I do not find it easy to send the flower of our youth, our finest young men, into battle. I have spoken to you today of the divisions and the forces and the battalions and the units, but I know them all, every one (…) I think I know, too, how their mothers weep and how their families sorrow.” He has been warned that American casualty rates of up to 1,000 dead per month could be expected.

In Chicago, 10,000 anti-war protesters are confronted by 26,000 policemen. 800 demonstrators have been injured. The government said that anti-war protests are “prolonging the war.”

One of the most controversial statements of the American war, was made by an American officer: “We had to destroy it, in order to save it,” referring to a city around Saigon bombed by American airforce. His statement was later used to sum up the American experience in Vietnam.

During the entire war, the U.S. dropped nearly 8 million tons of bombs, four times the tonnage dropped during all of World War II, blindly killing hundreds thousands of civilians.

This is to show how people can be so easily manipulable by propaganda and ideology. The after war period in Vietnam was also very difficult. Poverty, starvation and repression against Southern Vietnamese forced millions people to flee Vietnam in the 80’ to the US or Europe, just like my Vietnamese friends in Paris did.

Images of the war are still present in elder people’s memory. But enough years have passed since then, the average visitor gets the same relaxed Asian atmosphere as in Laos or Thailand. With a very good value for money, Vietnam is fully able to cater to all kind of tourists, wether they like cultural sightseing or coconut cocktails in luxury beach resorts.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2014/08/30/vietnam-from-the-war-to-paradise/feed/0Vietnam Hanoi bikezelechowskiVietnam water puppetsHanoi studentHanoi opera houseHue palaceHoi An Japanese bridgeStreet food PhoMy Son Cham towerDa Lat colonial houseDa Lat Crazy HouseDa Lat Bao Dai PalaceVesak 2014 Da LatVietnam volunteerCommunism ViettelVietnam scooter smsDien Bien Phu 60 yearsHanoi childHanoi child 2Lebanonhttps://flypigs.com/2014/07/07/lebanon/
https://flypigs.com/2014/07/07/lebanon/#respondMon, 07 Jul 2014 17:12:53 +0000http://zelechowski.wordpress.com/?p=726Continue reading →]]>Let me introduce you to a tall, nice and brilliant guy named Charbel. He is a professor of Engineering in several prestigious universities in France and Lebanon. I met him for the first time before a glass of sweet Coteaux du Layon in a bar in Nantes, France, where people tend to be more relaxed and friendly than in Paris. When inquired about his native country, Charbel talked about its beautiful landscapes and rich cultural heritage. His story aroused my curiosity, and when he told me he would come back to Lebanon for a few months this year, I offered him as a joke to have a second glass in Beirut. He replied we don’t have this wine in Lebanon, but if you come, I’ll prepare some traditional pancakes for breakfast instead. Why not I wondered…

Charbel cooking Lebanese pancakes.

Just to place Lebanon on a map, it is bordered by Syria to the North and the East, and by Israel to the South. The sea shore stretches along the West side, while the border with Syria is mountainous. Lebanon has a lot of sightseeing to offer despite its relatively small size. You can reach practically any corner of the country from Beirut in one hour drive. To get the most of Lebanon, renting a car is a good option, provided you are not afraid of the Lebanese chaotic driving style.

Pigeon Rocks in Beirut is the perfect place to enjoy a sunset cocktail.

Lebanon is often considered the most cosmopolite country in the Middle East because of its high literacy rate and traditionally Mediterranean trading culture. Another reason is Lebanon complex makeup of various communities: Sunni Muslims, Shia Muslims, always numerous in the territories from Iran to Lebanon, and Christians, themselves divided into Maronites and Orthodox. The Druze, a community descending from Shia Muslims since the 11th century, makes only 5% of the population, but they played a prominent role in the history of Lebanon. The different communities tend to live in separate regions, or villages, except in Beirut where they all mix together. People would say: “Our village is Maronite, but next is Shia, and then the other one will be Sunni”. The climate between them is calm since the end of the civil war in the 90’.

The time when civil war raged in Lebanon is still present in people’s minds. This violent conflict lasted from 1975 to 1990 and opposed Christian Maronites and Muslims. The civil war claimed up to 70, 000 lives, mainly during tit-for-tat terrorist attacks. However, the religious antagonisms have been fostered by a series of historical events, dating back as far as the First World War.

After the fall of the Ottoman Empire in 1918, France took the administration of the territory comprising Lebanon and Syria. During that time, the territory was inhabited by a majority of Christians, who managed to cooperate with the French administration. In 1943, when France was occupied by Germany, Lebanon managed to get its independence. The government and its administration were formed according to a principle supposed to mirror the proportion of communities in Lebanon, so that the president is a Maronite Christian, the prime minister a Sunni and the speaker of parliament a Shia. This system favoured Christians who kept a prominent role in Lebanon institutions and army. Over the time, Muslim population increased drastically, without grasping more power in Lebanon society. In the meantime, a large number of Palestinian refugees arrived in Lebanon. They make up now roughly one tenth of the country’s population, living in precarious conditions. The demographic balance gradually shifted towards a Muslim majority. Conflicts in the Middle-East, particularly in Israel, radicalized religious tensions that flared up in 1975.

Beirut has often been dubbed the ‘Paris of the Middle-East’. Walking in the Hamra area reminded me the popular Chateau Rouge quarter, near Montmartre. Actually, many buildings in downtown Beirut were built by French architects during and even after the period of the French mandate. As in its other former colonies, the French wanted to secure their presence by massively developing infrastructures and institutions. This is the reason why French is spoken fluently among the Lebanese elite. Nowadays, English tends to replace it as second language after Arabic.

Barbed wires at sunset in Beirut.

The country is still peppered with military posts with soldiers, armored vehicles, bunkers, to prevent invasions from its neighbours countries, or possible terrorist activity. You can still see on many buildings in Beirut the scars of the civil war. The most obvious of them are the ruins of the Holiday Inn Hotel opposite the marina that stays covered with bullet and shell holes.

Al Amine Mosque, late night.

The Al Amine Mosque (aka Rafik Hariri Mosque), built in 2007, is the most imposing building in Beirut. The Mosque was financed by Rafik Hariri, the Lebanon Prime-Minister, who was assassinated in the Valentine ’s Day in 2005 by a suicide bomber. Many people come to his memorial standing at the mosque to pay him respect.

The Lebanese political class was quick to accuse Syria over the killing, although Syria’s role is increasingly questioned. Syria sent its troops in 1975 immediately after the civil war started. Huge pro- and anti-Syria rallies in Beirut triggered the fall of the government and the Syrian army finally left Lebanon in 2005.

Syria continues to exert a considerable political influence in Lebanon. In the South suburb of Beirut, in majority Muslim, I saw many portraits of Syrian President Bashar Al-Assad.

In downtown Beirut, people manifest their support to the Syrian government.

The Castle of Sidon was built by the Crusaders in 1228 on a site of a Roman temple, which remains are still visible. The castle remained in their possession for not so long as the causeway in the foreground was built by the Mamluks in the end of the 13th century. You can see inside the remains of a mosque built by the Ottomans. The city of Sidon has a typical atmosphere of a Sunnite ancient city with numerous old mosques and its medieval shadowed souk.

Deir-al Quamar central square.

In the city of Deir-al Quamar, 50 km north of Beirut, the central square kept its Ottoman atmosphere with its vaulted souk.

Beiteddine Palace main court.

In the vicinity of Deir-al Quamar, Beiteddine Palace has an impressive system of cellars that contains a collection of byzantine mosaics. Due to its cooler climate in altitude, it serves as the Presidential summer residence.

A view of the Deir Mar Elisha monastery near the city of Bcharre in the Quadisha Valley. Several major Christian monasteries and numerous hermitages are located there, some being founded as early as in the 6th century. Quadisha Valley is the spiritual center of the Maronite community in Lebanon.

Lion-shaped gutter from Jupiter temple at Baalbek.

Baalbek, classified as a World Heritage site since 1984, is an extensive Roman site that includes many buildings and three temples. One of them, the temple of Bacchus, is in very good state. The biggest one, the temple of Jupiter Baal has only one side left, but its original size was impressive: 88 m long, 48 m wide, with 21 m tall columns, making it the biggest Roman temple ever built.

If you are passionate by classic architecture, Baalbek is the best place to visit, as the site was left almost finished, revealing some ingenious building techniques. By its scale and state, I found Baalbek is the Angkor of Lebanon and it’s worth the trip by itself.

Baalbek is close to the Syrian borders. When driving there, we underwent several thorough checks by the army and we saw some Syrian refugee camps. For the first time, seeing the precarious camps built in the dry Bekaa plain, I felt the reality of the Syrian civil war. The massive exodus of refugees from Syria started in 2011. It is estimated that in 2014, Syrian refugees make up around a quarter of the population in Lebanon, weighting heavily on the country’s resources.

Why don’t try a local rosé with Lebanese food? Wine production in the Bekaa Valley began in the 19th century thanks to the Jesuits and grew even more after 1923, when the French brought their savoir-faire and Bordeaux and Rhone grape varieties. Apart from international grapes, Obeideh is the most remarkable of local varieties. Chateau Ksara, with its large panel of wines and its labyrinth-like cellars is certainly the most famous winery in Lebanon. However, many other local producers are as good, but their marketing capacity just allows them to promote their wine in Beirut. The Lebanon wine production obtains world-level awards regularly.

]]>https://flypigs.com/2014/07/07/lebanon/feed/0Lebabon troglodyteszelechowskiCharbel galettes.Pigeon rocks beirutBeirut barbed wiresBeirut Hariri MosqueBashar al assad supporters BeirutSidon Castle.Deir Al QuemarBeiteddine PalaceDeir Mar Elisha Quadisha valleyBaalbekLebanese foodLebanon Ksara WineryLolitas and zombies in Moscowhttps://flypigs.com/2014/04/22/lolitas-and-zombies-in-moscow/
https://flypigs.com/2014/04/22/lolitas-and-zombies-in-moscow/#respondTue, 22 Apr 2014 19:17:25 +0000http://zelechowski.wordpress.com/?p=707Continue reading →]]>Have you ever heard about the anime, manga, or lolitas world? If you are familiar with the Japanese pop culture, I bet you have! I was totally unaware of the Japanese pop culture until last Sunday, when I went the festival Hinode 2014 in Moscow. I had a wonderful time! Let me introduce you to 7 very nice people dressed up for the Hinode festival among the hundreds of other participants.

It’s amazing how the Russians have embraced the Japanese anime culture so well, giving the fact that they were raised in Soviet animation films like Cheburashka or the Hedgehog in the fog . When I was 8 in Paris, I used to watch sometimes Japanese animation films, but I could never imagine to which extend this culture is diversified and has so much hardcore fans.

This zombie girl had the cheapest and the most convincing costume in the same time.

This costume was also among the simplest ones, yet it made a tremendous effect.

In my brown jacket, I felt like a white crow in that festival, so for next year I will certainly have my costume of Bioman ready!

]]>https://flypigs.com/2014/04/22/lolitas-and-zombies-in-moscow/feed/0Hinode 11zelechowskiHinode 8Hinode Moscow 7Hinode 14Hinode 9Hinode Moscow 1Hinode Moscow 5Hinode Moscow 3The Dutch: high below sea levelhttps://flypigs.com/2014/04/05/the-dutch-high-below-sea-level/
https://flypigs.com/2014/04/05/the-dutch-high-below-sea-level/#commentsSat, 05 Apr 2014 06:32:25 +0000http://zelechowski.wordpress.com/?p=678Continue reading →]]>My company sent me to the Netherlands. I was seeing myself enjoying the kind of life I had in Amsterdam when I was 20; Beer, herrings, museums and…no limits fun! But instead, I ended up in the South-East of the Netherlands, in a quiet place called Zeddam.

Zeddam is close to the German frontier, in an area surrounded by forests, fields and picturesque windmills.

It turned out that my stay in Zeddam was a unique experience! I met with local Dutch farmers and workers and had a chance to learn about the Dutch national character.

Some words come immediately in mind when describing the Dutch: open-minded, pragmatic, optimistic, with a good sense of humor. In the same time, Dutch are often told of being mean, like in the expression “to go Dutch”. I suppose this came from the fact that, being good merchants, Dutch are rigorous in their accounts. Dutch are very welcoming. Personally, I never paid my share of the bill when in restaurant or bar with Dutch people in Holland.

Dutch houses usually don’t have curtains. This is to tell they have nothing to hide. In fact, the climate in often cloudy in the Netherlands, so by having large windows with no curtains, it brings more light. There is also another reason for this openness. Dutch are not afraid of showing their sofa or TV to the strangers so their valuables may become a prey for thieves.

Dutch are honest and trustful by nature. I recall 20 years ago in Amsterdam, newspapers were sold in the street, left in transparent plastic bags with a little box nearby. People picked up a newspaper and dropped the money into the box. Newspapers are not sold this way anymore, but still Dutch are honest by principle.

I experienced another example how Dutch are trustful, I was walking in the countryside alone, when I saw a man coming home on his new BMW motorcycle. I stopped by and looked at his bike. I said “hello, I want the same one!”. He chattered with me on the advantages and drawbacks of his machine, while I was thinking that in other countries I may have been taken for a thief or a weirdo.

This also works in trade. Historically, being a trading nation, the Dutch believe in the “merchant’s word” to close a deal. When I used to work with business partners in Rotterdam, I also used this principle, and I would never come to my mind not to fulfil a clause of the contract if it has been agreed only verbally, not on a paper. Business reputation is the asset number one in the Netherlands.

Regarding work, the Dutch have the reputation of being efficient, organised, hard-workers. These aspects of the Dutch personality are often described as being the result of Protestantism. There must be some truth in it, but surprisingly, the Protestants makes only a quarter of the population in the Netherlands, while the Catholics are the majority religion. Not to mention that religion practice in the Netherlands is falling down.

By the way, when travelling across the countryside far away from big cities, I never had difficulties to make me understand.

The Dutch language is close to German to a point that learning it is quite natural for a Dutchman. English, though slightly less related to the Dutch, is even more ubiquitous in the Netherlands, in stores, restaurant, and TV, as English serials are usually not translated, but only subtitled. As a result, almost everybody is able to switch easily from their native language to English or German without any difficulties.

It is not amazing that given the Dutch attitude, a small country like the Netherlands plays a key role in global commerce, financial and legal system and as such, has a huge political lever on other countries like Russia and the US.

The average Dutch person shows that the great lies in the small and the high in the low.

Apart from its inhabitants, Zeddam region has also another thing worth to mention, dozens of well-preserved windmills out of the some 1150 ones still functioning in the Netherlands.

The Netherlands, like no other country, are tightly associated with windmills. But despite the fact that the Dutch built windmills for centuries (and one can say, the windmills themselves built the Netherlands, since they pumped the water away to make the polders) actually, windmills were not invented by the Dutch. In the Middle Age, windmills were a common sight in almost every part of Europe.

Arnhem park windmill.

The fame of the Dutch windmills started in the XVII century, when a man named Cornelis Van Uitgeest, added a crankshaft to a windmill to convert the rotating movement to an up and down movement. This way a windmill could be used to saw wood at a significantly higher speed than a team of workers. His invention came in a perfect time as Holland began to explore overseas territories and needed a huge quantity of wood to build ships.

A great number of mills were also used to pump water out of the polders and keep the land dry, so finally, windmills became a common part of the Dutch landscape.

Windmills for pumping water and windmills for making flour look quite similar; the last ones are usually in a middle of a village mounted on a heap of ground, like the windmills in the Zeddam region.

Zeddam eastern windmill

Zeddam western windmill and bell tower.

Stokkum windmill (postmill type, with rotating top)

Three schoolboys at Braamt windmill. Roads for cars are generally doubled with roads for bicycles making the Netherlands a paradise for bikers.

Huis Bergh Castle, in the vicinity of Zeddam

Thankfully, I had two days off to visit Amsterdam and Utrecht.

A “postal card” view from a canal in Utrecht.

Utrecht is a perfect example how an extensive historical city centre can be totally spoilt by a bad city management. Chain stores, fast foods and modern building populate the historical centre. With a different city protection plan, Utrecht would have been one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, like Bruges and Gand.

Amsterdam is a neat and charming city, even better than what it was two decades ago.

A canal in Amsterdam…

The Rijksmuseum hosts hundreds of stunning Dutch pieces of furniture and paintings, including the famous Milkmaid by Vermeer.

The flat countryside, bordered with canals and windmills invites you take a bicycle and to ride one whole week. It’s the time necessary to cross the Netherlands. If you feel courageous to do it too, let me know and let’s make it real!