Riccardo Tisci

Just one week ahead of unveiling Givenchy Spring Summer 2016 menswear at Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy releases its Pre-Spring 2016 showcase in a traditional set of lookbook images. This time around, it seems as though the French fashion house has strategically set to launch its pre-collection menswear in-line with the womenswear resort collection, much like the antecedent Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear showcase. Furthermore, most looks has been significantly reduced, there are only 9 looks in every pre-collection since Pre-Fall 2015. And if you compare it with the Givenchy Pre-Spring 2014 menswear collection which features a staggering 26 looks, that simply means only 1/3 of the entire collection is represented in advance.

The first half of Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016 menswear is dominated by several traditional pinstripe elements in a full set of clothes ranging from shirts, ties, coats and suits, these belongs to the everyday classic wardrobe collection which may seem ideal for most men who are seeking a distinctive formal style. The powerful impressions represented in a small selection of linear monochromatic black, charcoal gray, and ivory white fabrics with complementary pinstripe colours derives in sharply tailored formalwear from the suiting culture of Italy where the creative designer was raised. For less formal occasions, Tisci crafted an army staple series in military green suiting featuring utilitarian pockets highlighted in darker contrast, paired with a mint green poplin shirt that has a khaki outlines which engages the necktie.

In the past collections, Tisci has been renowned to introduce feminism in experimental colours to bridge a balance in masculine distinction, we have seen baby blues, light pinks and mint greens are often exercise along with romantic motifs in particularly pre-spring and spring summer menswear collections. As such, the colour mint green is bound to return this Givenchy Pre-Spring 2016. The new Givenchy mint green native american carpet print sets out in a classic sweatshirt, columbian-fit polo t-shirt and a button-up knit skirt formerly introduced in Fall Winter 2015. First incepted from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2012 Birds of Paradise menswear, this singular colour palette has returned with an equally distinct print that exudes from the native american carpet motif procure from the current Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear, although my first impressions towards the graphic motif reminisce a jewel Tetris game as resulted from the predominant acid green inlays and jewel like embodiment.

As for every pre-collection, it goes without saying that Givenchy has planned an animal print in hope to foster the ever popular Rottweiler since Givenchy Fall Winter 2011 menswear. Therefore in this Pre-Spring 2016 season, a pair of roaring baboons under the trademark single star enclosure in a gray sweatshirt variant is subject to please cult fans who are looking for diversification. This particular print originated from the first Givenchy Star & Monkey Print Sleeveless T-Shirt, assembled along with a black sweatshirt variant that is yet to be made available along the Fall Winter 2015 season. While at the rugged front sports a set of denim archive offered in light blue wash with minor distressed throughout the fabrics including leather insertions patched on to collar and sleeves detailing. Lastly, the least exciting Givenchy Logo Print Destroyed Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt is bound to return in the following season which begs us to questions whether the designer is indicating a further uphold in the destroyed attributes amongst future styles.

Discern from the footwear corner is a pair of Givenchy Black Derby Lace-Up Leather Shoes with contrast white soles and in the causal end there is a very unusual piece of frankenstein creation. At first sight, the sneakers is what seems to be inspired from a pair of boat shoes. Innovated in its truly unique silhouette boast a low-top and high-top variant featuring metal contrast eyelids and lace ups for both, while high-tops variants gets an additional tasselled feature with an upper vamp similar to those found on a mountaineer boots. The rubber midsoles element is crafted with a razor-cut wave design and is perhaps the most distinct feature which shares similarities from Givenchy’s iconic Tyson sneaker.

As Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 and Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 is set upon us, the deliberation of Riccardo Tisci’s enthralled menswear collection for both seasons has echoed through a myriad of conversations ever since it was presented almost half a year ago. Much like every upcoming season, Givenchy has not only developed several diversified styles with an innovative appeal, but further continues to increase its inventory levels. This has resulted the brand in growing more confident through time after witnessing a high surge in demand since Fall Winter 2012, which has lead to rising inventories as part of the brand’s strategic expansion across the globe.

And in this season there seems to be no short of it, although I must divulge that the ever-popular Givenchy Rottweiler Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt for Pre-Fall 2015 has almost been completely sold out by the time I have written this. Just by taking a glance in detail over both pre and main collections offered from Luisa Via Roma in the most recent pre-order release, one could simply be overwhelm or distress from the amount of choices largely available in an array of motifs and styles, which may or may not be a good thing.

The infamous Rottweiler might be almost half a decade old but its menacing presence has aged quite gracefully, and in the latest Pre-Fall 2015 collection there’s a new detailed variant in embroidery that highlights every bit of the old traditional print. Available in two distinct fits, Cuban and Columbian, the Cuban-Fit sells out at a heartbeat with only large remaining sizes, and these elements have always set the initial impression in resurging a particular design. Speaking of resurgence, I was lucky enough to have picked up the Givenchy Black Stars & Beads Appliqué Shirt earlier from L’Inde le Palais many thanks to a Singaporean reader here who had informed me that they had it available for pre-order. It made me think twice before I made the official checkout just under a split second, since it was introduced back in Givenchy Fall Winter 2012 menswear collection, it belong to a series that is as ancient in the fashion universe as it sounds. The most fascinating history of this shirt is that there weren’t any existing owners selling them off to the pre-owned market. I am very glad that I have bought it, with the additional 10% off for new customers on top of the non-EU taxed pricing, it would be very difficult to resist not getting one especially when there were only 3 sizes available and limited to 1 per size.

That said, the thing that really turns heads for this season is the spooky Givenchy Black Skull Print T-Shirt, I would prefer the skulls at the lower waist than the neckline alternative. Indeed this is a top that has the appearance that will question opinions and even scare small children, it has a dark iconic presence that is peculiar towards Tisci’s legacy but its anything but subtle, instead it is unashamedly wicked with its imposing stacks of skull heads and seems to fit the “cursed objet d’art” in an ideal context just by observing its understated credentials. For a much darker approach, I would pick the Givenchy Skull Print Long Poplin Shirt that features an enlarged reverse skull print and exaggerated length unique to this season, lining the body with an elongated sense of structure.

Perhaps the most distinguish print that is currently attainable and should be seriously considered is the Givenchy Star & Monkey Print Sleeveless T-Shirt. During its initial inception, minor snippets of the mystery print were showcased across the runway and has since undergone substantial speculation, presuming it being the next “Rottweiler” replacement. The graphic print that features two monkey’s teeth’s amulet below a single star coding was later unveiled by Riccardo Tisci himself, in a sweatshirt variant – yet to be released later in the season. While its similar sibling, the Givenchy Rooster & Monkey Voodoo Print Sleeveless T-Shirt invokes a vector silhouette which houses an enraged monkey collaged in an inescapable voodoo vibe leaves no compromises in a distinct style appeal intrinsic to the Givenchy label. At the moment, these sleeveless printed t-shirts are quite well received, especially the Givenchy Rooster & Monkey Voodoo Print Sleeveless T-Shirt which is almost sold out to those who are eager to experiment the latest street-edge style.

The Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear’s main print is the Native American Carpet motif in striking Tuscan colourway represented in a small proportion of tailored selection. The Native American Carpet is perhaps one of the most distinct hallmark motif amongst the collection, derived from an exclusive expression recollected from the designer’s discoveries of subcultures, the motif accentuates through a powerful silhouettes in tailored wool jackets, coats, shirts, and pairing trousers, occasionally offered in smattering sequins only for those who are able to dig deep into their wallet’s wildest fantasies. And for this season I wouldn’t miss getting the Givenchy Native American Carpet Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt as part of my seasonal collection, unlike the past season where I’ve missed out in attaining the main Givenchy Black Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt because of some Instagram resell who could not deliver one after making the payment, this serves as a lesson to only trust and purchase from reputable retailers.

In terms of accessories and footwear, this season sees an abundance of high-end leather wear with metal embellished pieces taking the spotlight. From leather pouches, to all-rounded studded belts, and distinct footwear pieces. If given a single choice, I would go for the Givenchy Brown & Black Metal & Swarovski Crystal Studded Swiss Sandals, this fancy footwork emphasizes aggressive detailing with contrast leather reinforcements that is just a joy to look at. For those who are more conservative can opt for the modern interpreted Givenchy 45mm Black Rottweiler Chain-Detail Lace-Up Leather Shoes. The new footwear has been altered in proportion and is quite substantially improved over its predecessor to fit the contemporary market, additional to this it is also available in a mid-cut boots variant at matching prices to compare. These are perhaps one of the most unmistakable footwear reminisce to the Givenchy Fall Winter 2011 menswear collection. Back then only a handful of people were able to afford the renowned quintessential knee-high boots that were taken right off the runway which was produced limited in production and availability was scare to selective retailers.

Time flies when you’re busy exploring shedloads of designer wear, and by the time you are still expecting for the latest arrivals from Spring Summer 2015 collection the new transition period has already begun. Fall Winter 2015 is approaching upon us, and yet Spring Summer 2015 sales season is just weeks away in May. This week mark’s Milan based luxury retailer – Antonioli to launch its latest Pre-Fall 2015 and Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection, a vast resurgence of new arrivals currently available for advance pre-order after overcoming Givenchy Spring Summer 2015’s demand which lead to an instant sellout in a matter of weeks since the beginning of the season.

It is customary for Givenchy in every pre-collection to reproduce visual aesthetics from former collections, but the new Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear collection not only begins from the past, it integrates experimental elements extended from the house codes. In this season, pixel-blocking properties dress across predominant designs that have taken inspiration from a digital manipulation software. The Givenchy Black Madonna Digital Print Cuban-Fit T-Shirt sets a prime example, utilizing the base print work reinitiated from the Givenchy Spring Summer 2013 menswear collection while incorporating pixelated accents and what seems to be the crop tool housing strategically position on the right side of the print.

The pixelated digital coding was not only confined to a visual experiment but also continued through one of the main Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 print series. Set in a khaki military colourway, the Givenchy Black Stars & Digital Pinball Print Columbian-Fit T-Shirt features a two dimensional symmetrical assembly built from an array of geometric lines that shapes a military radar detector system with an additional camouflage touch represented in a pixelated digital pattern. On the other hand, a conspicuous Givenchy Black Fire Abstract Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt seems to have transpired from an IR infrared heat signature imaging, the nature of digitalism played a significant role in this season’s pre-collection series.

While the Givenchy Pre-Fall 2015 menswear lookbook featured the ‘Love’ typography print offered in a torn-off or technicolor degraded print series has prevailed through a complete selection of outwear to choose from. Finding desire to own these pieces may be a challenge due to the weak aspirational visual aesthetics portrayed in this particular series, however there are some other highly noteworthy pieces enveloped from through the classic collection. One of the few treasured pieces in the current collection is the Givenchy Black Stars & Stripes Print Mohair-Blend Sweater, it is uniquely composed from a mixture of five different materials, rendering a distinct texture on the contrast white and red striped waistline. Another interesting selection is the Givenchy Black Crystal Studded Swiss Leather Sandals, this pair of quality spring footwear mainly features Swarovski jewels and metal studded embellishments, making it eye-catching from a distance and looks wise is nonetheless extravagant. Other enticing accessories include the Givenchy Gold Codification series available in a textured leather backpack and zipper pouch to match that are new and exclusive codes to this season.

Heading to Fall Winter 2015, just by having a closer look at Antonoli’s latest Givenchy Fall Winter 2015 menswear collection, the devils in the details felt incredibly realistic, the collection revealed the little but yet important detailing unseen from the vast showcase and dark runway setting. One could grasp the concept by Riccardo Tisci’s intend to turn formal streetwear with a devilish affair, the dynamic inspiration converted Givenchy’s standard ready-to-wear basics into a discerning experiment. The more subtly collection is dominated by the worn out effect ‘Native American’ or otherwise presumed ‘Persian’ gauged carpet print, primarily available with an alternative black gradient approach.

This season’s prominent style direction assembles severely worn out attributes as though a ferocious animal has ripped across the fabrics, a key feature administered in less distinct designs offered in a creative approach. Cotton shirts are elongated this season with unfinished seams protruding across edge – termed “Raw-Cut”, such as the Givenchy Black & Red Raw-Cut Contour Columbian-Fit Long Shirt outlined the perfect classic representation of a devil’s outfit. A Givenchy Black Destroyed Native-American Carpet Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt addresses random distressed throughout that unveils tiny hidden patches of print details that gave off an unexpected creative notion, while while oversized generic label branded Givenchy Black ‘Givenchy Paris’ Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt also available in a T-Shirt variant were intensively destroyed till a point it questions the irony coming from a luxury designer. These unique aesthetics will definitely challenge consumer’s acceptance and appreciation, particularly towards these pieces.

Givenchy spring summer menswear collections are periodically released in the early month of April to end of May. But for the very first time, the current Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 menswear made an earlier debut in-stores since February 2015, after months of editorial teasing since its first initiation – the Floral Gypsophila collection or rather it be called “Baby’s Breath”, was revealed at the Menswear Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015 on 31st June 2014.

FROM RUNWAY TO RACK

Riccardo Tisci’s brainchild line-up began with a few SS15 essentials pieces in black and white band panelled sports influence, these were the more discern minimalist wear in high contrast monochromatic designs that were less exclusive in the collection, but equally desirable and repetitive to wear. The range ultimately proliferated towards the mass distinct gypsophila clustered series, whereby its main detailing not only lies within the pioneering dozen hundreds of flowery print work, but additional strategically placed band panelled detailing were frequently dressed in contrast prints throughout the silhouette.

The collection then advanced towards the predominant gypsophila, a new developed prominence motif that was described in the press release as “poisonous romantic flowers” which is to say, tiny petal pools of precisely spaced across various sections in symmetrical floral print. Later on, these were recurred in Swarovski embellishments in limited editions primarily offered in a polo and shirt series. For this season, I have decided to settle with the new Givenchy Black Baby’s Breath Floral Gypsophila Print Columbian-Fit Sweatshirt, it is one of the very first profound variants of its kind that was earlier released in the month. A breathtaking decorated pure lightweight cotton sweatshirt featuring class-leading design dynamics.

This of course is the ultimate Givenchy Baby’s Breath Pearl Embellished Polo Shirt, a very special top garment emerged from the runway, is a central piece with a luxury touch of extravagance derived from the dark and sensual romanticism codes. Printed over is an abstract symmetrical gypsophila flower artwork also known as ‘Baby’s Breath’ in label’s term. Dexterity in painterly details and much loved across this season, the pearl embroidered series dominates the leading designers’ era and welcomes in the reclamation beginning of the house spirit.

Riccardo Tisci has definitely taken it to a new and more exciting direction, away from the customary vividness of spring summer printed overlords. A collection disseminated from the starting point of the Tisci’s career in Givenchy, reintroducing monochromatic elements rooted from his very first collections somehow reflects a strong fall winter notion. There are several pearl embroidered polo shirt variants, in which two were earlier featured in the show collection. Read more about the Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 Menswear Collection.

It has been a year since Riccardo Tisci unveiled the Givenchy Fall Winter 2014 menswear, a constructive collection inspired from his childhood love for basketball. An amalgamation series of both art and sports were translated into clothes for men, as distinct elements captured from the basketball game merged with the epochal 20th century design lines of Bauhaus movement.

The zip embellished wear offered by Givenchy has been infinitely reinvented since it was introduced by Tisci, this particular key feature has been categorized by the house as their metal craftsmanship trademark and has been incorporated not only limited to the footwear and accessories, but has eventually evolve into new codes in ready-to-wear collection. See the latest Givenchy Spring Summer 2015 Footwear and Accessories Collection

In every Givenchy show season, Tisci is known to introduce specific key pieces and one of them from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2014 menswear ‘shirt’ category is the Givenchy White Zip Embellished Basketball Shirt. Possessed with the primary basketball motif of the season, the shirt takes on a unique disposition formed by the distinguished silver basketball groove lines looping around its shape in traditional cotton wear. Its desirable characteristics sets the benchmark of class leading shirt making for the season.

The detailed centric Givenchy White Zip Embellished Basketball Shirt amounts an astounding weight, mainly due to its largely rendered metal craftsmanship zip trims that is embedded into the heavy woven cotton material which houses the complete construction. As the designer continues to innovate and create in its ongoing experimentation use of hefty metal craftsmanship materials reanimated across a wide range of men’s ready-to-wear, including a similar shirt version in less exuberant details, lapel trimmed blazer, mixed material printed sweater, nylon-leather jacket and waist-trimmed trousers to match – a perpetual journey that seeks excitement to its cult of fashion enthusiast. I have even made an additional purchase on the second generation Givenchy White Zip Trimmed Cotton Shirt from the current Pre-Spring 2015 season that has just gone through an extensive mid-life update, this fast selling-light weight essential style piece represents the old mantra “less is more”. Opt for the lower spec zip trims as it offers interchangeable flexibility from weekdays work wear to evening dressing at a far more realistic price.

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