TROYES CITY
Medieval Cork in the Champagne

The
center of the Champagne region and doorway to the Aube “Route
du Champagne”, Troyes connection to the bubbling elixir for which
this area of France is known is famously reflected in the city’s
old town, which is laid out in the shape of a Champagne cork. This unique
relationship wasn’t intentional, just an accident of history from
the boundaries of the Gallo-Roman era city along the Seine River and
later growth, but has become part of the city’s identity. In the
middle ages, Troyes was a center for Medieval Trade Fairs which gave
it great power and influence in the 12th Century when Troyes competed
with Paris as France's most important city. Textiles
and cloth built the region’s prestige long before its wine making
reputation. Troyes was where the Knights Templars originated in the 1100's
at the outset of the 2nd Crusade which increased the
city’s wealth and power (see Hugues
de Payns Museum). In fact much speculation is has been
made about the Templars’ treasure
making for plots of movies and manifold conspiracy theories. In fact
the treasure of the Templars was actually found here. 708 pieces of silver
were discovered in 1988 in the house of a former commander of the Templars
in nearby Payns. St Bernard
of Clairvaux (See Chatillon-sur-Seine
St. Vorles) drafted the
rules of the Templars approved by the Council of Troyes. The Abbey of
Clairvaux
is
a few miles
away
as
well
as the
well preserved Abbey
Fontenay.

The
One Hundred Years war was ended in Troyes when England’s
Henry V signed the Treaty of Troyes with French King Charles VI, with
the marriage of Charles daughter Catherine de France to the English
ruler. One of the most distinctive and fascinating features of old
Troyes are
the many streets of magnificent half-timbered buildings which
still exist from the middle-ages, colored in pastel mauves, greens
and pinks. Troyes suffered a devastating fire in 1524 which destroyed
most
of the city, so that much of it was reconstructed at the same time
and that common unique architecture has sustained for 500 years. The
buildings
were protected under a dull gray plaster until allowed to be uncovered
in 1964, with continuing restorations of a glorious history.

The
Troyes indoors market reflects the heritage of the medieval market
days when the Counts of Champagne
came
up with the idea of promoting
their domain’s prosperity by encouraging commerce. The medieval
fairs originally centered around the gothic Church of St. Jean
au Marché.
Traders came from all Europe to trade at the fairs. The Troy pound still
used in England was a measure created at the medieval fairs of Troyes.
Streets around the church still bear names like bread market square Marché du
Pain. There are nine churches in Troyes dating from the 12th to the 16th
Centuries.

The Vauluisant Museum a private
mansion originally guest quarters of the Cistercian Monks from the
Abbey of
Vauluisant (see Vauluisant
Abbey Music Festival) houses two museums, the Museum
of Troyes and Champagne History with paintings, sculptures
and stained glass
from the famous “Troyes
School” of stained glass artists which flourished in the 16th Century
and gave the city the nickname of the “Holy Town of Stained Glass” and
the Hosiery Museum reflecting the history of stockings
and bonnet making which made Troyes the “capital of Hosiery” in the 1700’s
with one of the first wooden looms from the 18th Century.

Troyes
is not just history on view. Restaurants and bars line many of the
old town streets with a
lively effervescence
after the sun sets.
Troyes’ merchant tradition continues with bargain shopping. Three
main shopping center with 200 stores and shops, Troyes claims to be the
factory outlet capital of central France. And of course, Champagne. The
Aube region is the second largest producer of bubbly in France. A map
of the Route of Champagne through the Aube wine region to the east of
Troyes. The rail station in Troyes is located at the “bottom” of
the cork, at the edge of the St. Jean old fair district.

Where to stay. The Best Western Hotel De La Poste is
a stylish 4 star hotel in the heart of the pedestrian historic district on the
Rue Emile
Zola, which runs through the center of the "cork". The wooden beams
of the old building
remain prominent in the rooms, framing marble bathrooms. For bargain
two star B&B style accommodation in the center of the
old town, the Hotel
des Comtes de Champagne is charming in an original
16th Century half-timbered pastel lodging house, with a helpful staff
and tour information. Family rooms with a kitchen
are available.