So figured I would write this up in hopes of possibly helping someone else looking at doing rear sacs on a V-drive boat as close to stock as possible. Pictures are to follow, also will update this original post with any other issues that crop up along the way.

First step was to try and figure out pump the intake for both pumps. Ended up choosing a location at the bottom of the engine compartment and put in the bronze intake with elbow and shutoff valve. Made sure to keep enough area between any part of the engine and the tube to make sure I wasn't going to melt anything. Intake was sealed with the 3M marine compound and let harden for 24 hrs before taking it out on the water.

Next step was to try and figure out where to put the pumps. The pump orientation made it a little trick but one is tucked in on the engine side of the bay while the other is up against the seat. Tried fitting both pumps inside the engine bay but ran out of room to run up all the tubing and everything else.

Now the tricky part was the plumbing after the pump. I went with an above the water line install so I could see when the bag is empty and ensure that I did not run the pumps dry for to long. I used the following diagram from wakemakers (who supplied all the plumbing parts which a big shout out to them for this)
So using 2 check valves and a tee I was able to hook it all up to ensure that my fill came from below the water line and the drain went above the waterline. Considering adding a check valve on the vent to allow for vacuum like suction of the rear bags but first wanted to see how it did without it.

After drilling the 4 holes I need above the water line for drains (2 for each bag) and using the quick connect I began my favorite part, the electrical (/sarcasm).
Using 8 gauge wire I ran from the pumps up to the 2 new switches I had installed along with the current switch for my center bag. I was unable to find an area where I could tap in the 25 Amps to the fuse panel which meant I had to run my own lines to the battery (which already looks like spaghetti but not much I can do about that). Followed the wiring diagram for reversible pumps on the switch and seemed like it was set.

Need to do a test with a hose to see if the pump will run correctly and how well it fills up. At the same time also need to check out the engine guards and make sure they are not warping to much and if they are prepare to reinforce them. The previous owner also installed an hydraulic arm to raise and lower the sunpad. As long as I empty the bags before trying to open said sunpad I should be okay in terms of avoiding damage to the bag. Thinking about adding a small guard around it to protect it even further but would like to see how the bags react first.

Again as I said pictures will be up hopefully in a week (need a new camera) and will also help clarify the story a bit more. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message as I am trying to troll these boards a bit more . Also again big shout out to wakemakers.com for the help and sale of these parts. Nice being able to go to one place and get everything I need!

Cool. The actuator for the subpar came from the factory. There are several threads on how to remove it. its simple and straight forward. You use a latch and the simple gas shocks. While the actuator may not seem that bad at first you will be annoyed later with it after a month or two. It's a must if you ask me since you plan on running ballast. Post some pics of the boat. Good luck

Cool. The actuator for the subpar came from the factory. There are several threads on how to remove it. its simple and straight forward. You use a latch and the simple gas shocks. While the actuator may not seem that bad at first you will be annoyed later with it after a month or two. It's a must if you ask me since you plan on running ballast. Post some pics of the boat. Good luck

Oddly enough it didnt look very factory when I bought the boat. Had it last year and didnt really mind it. Only issue is I do not have any latch for the sunpad and not sure how well it will stay down without the extra weight (it is 1 giant piece though) Will remove if it becomes necessary though.
What shocks do people use, as all I can think of is like car hatch shocks.

If you put another check valve in the drain line, it prevent the bag from filling with air when you drain it. This makes it much easier to see when its empty. Also you are going to want to check your bags while filling/emptying and that actuator seems like it would be pretty annoying.

On your electrical..... You state you have a mess there now, mine was like that also. You may want to try and get ahead of the curve on that one before it bits you later especially if you decide to go to a dual battery set up or already have one. Several members including myself have undertaken this project and have posted our efforts.

If you have a properly installed electrical set up you should only end up with one or two power feeds directly attached to the batteries. Bus bars are going to be your friend here. They'll clean up the installation and ensure all the connections remain tight and clean. Several of us have bought these products from here.....

Here is a link on how to do it and all the parts you need for a swap. It's cake. I used the greats lakes skipper latch and mounted it to the drivers side of the sundeck instead of the ski pylon. Was much easier to adjust

dumping water above the water line really that big of a deal? besides watching it shoot out the side of your boat! only issue is getting something stuck in that check valve! make sure there is some sort of screen on that bronze intake underneath the boat. I ran those check valves on a different boat and we did have issues with trash jamming the the valve my current setup is all 1 1/8, 3 pumps tied to aux bags and factory pumps are on 3 way valves loads 4k ballast in under 7 mins

On your electrical..... You state you have a mess there now, mine was like that also. You may want to try and get ahead of the curve on that one before it bits you later especially if you decide to go to a dual battery set up or already have one. Several members including myself have undertaken this project and have posted our efforts.

If you have a properly installed electrical set up you should only end up with one or two power feeds directly attached to the batteries. Bus bars are going to be your friend here. They'll clean up the installation and ensure all the connections remain tight and clean. Several of us have bought these products from here.....

That is this off seasons project of redoing the electrical. When I bought it last year I just was trying to get everything up and running to get out on the water and added the second battery (with a hand switch. Didnt want to spend the money to make an auto switch which was no biggie). So now with the dual battery setup if I plan on stopping for long i just swap to the single battery and while I am skiing I have both batteries. The bus bar project will be next year to clean up all the terminals.

Swatguy: Thanks for the link. Will do some reading up on it. Will probably swap it out at the same time.

thamax: I am doing the above the waterline drain so I know when the bags are empty without having to open the hatch and watch them every time.