Hi,
I've been looking into silvias for a while now and have done much research. However, one topic I cannot find any answers on are the SR20's transmission codes. So my question is, what are the transmission code for the SR20DET 5 & 6 speed boxes? (Like supras have W58, V160, V161etc) And also, while we are at the topic, are the transmissions different from eachother on for instance an early SR20DET and a SR20DE? And another question, what amount of power can they handle unmodified? Thanks.

Hi have a have cage in my 180 arse end is stripped but want to put seat and inner rear panels back on who can help me cut the 2 holes in it I have fucked 3 panels now 😥 I just cannot get it right and want it to look neat

Hello all,
I am new here so go easy
Okay so I think my SR20det's turbo has reached the end of its life.
It is making a loose grinding noise and has negative boost, I am going continue taking the turbo off tomorrow but just wanted to brainstorm. Anyone had anything similar??

Hey All Silvia Holders!
My name is Vlad and my silviasickness:)
Russian holder from Karelia.
Bought a car in 2015 in Russia and it's my first ever car. So it was my dream since 17 years old. And finally, bought it in Krasnodar that 2500 km, from me.
And it still inspire me!
Engine is sr20de, but I already bought sr20det and assembly (it was particularly disassembled, didn't buy from auction, my friend sell it to me), so it will be soon turbo stock(I hope that))).
She has(yes, she!) hks hypermax II
5 manual transmission
I made some changes since when I bought. Chipping and made preventive corrosive measures from bottom and sides.
Now car in painting preparation operations, but I'm at sea.
I'm a worldwide Russian seaman, and when I have vacation all time spend with Silvia.
PS. Sorry for my English:))
From Russia With Love!

I have some parts that i am selling because i cannot afford to finish off the rest of the dream project due to financial circumstances. They've been collecting dust for a very long time. Fresh and unused parts.
All have been bought fresh from Japan at great prices. Genuine $hit.
The TURBO itself was bought from here in Sydney and it took me a very long time to find the rear housing. I had to get it sourced from a shop in Brisbane.
For the SR20DET engine.
- HKS Step 2 Cams 264 12mm intake/12mm exhaust = $500
-HKS Valve Springs to suit = $250
-Nismo 740cc Injectors (x4) = $550
-GARRETT GTX3071R w/ 0.64 REAR HOUSING + ADAPTERS TO SUIT MANIFOLD IF NEEDED = $2100 (Seriously sad to sell this badboy T.T)
^will only sell together with the housing.
- SARD Fuel regulator (BLUE COLOUR) + extra adapters = $170
PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE.
Facebook post link with all the pictures of the parts:
https://www.facebook...614706438&rt=11

Hi all,
Has anyone used ACT NS1-XTSS before? I searched but didn't find any topics, which is weird enough as I thought it was a popular choice.
Im thinking of buying it, got an sr20det, around 450hp and 50kg of torque. Im basically after a street friendly clutch which can withstand abuse as well. I dont want funny noises, or too hard pedal. According to ACT this seems to be a good option.
Thanks in advance

Car is a 1994 180sx black top sr20det with garret 2860rs turbo running external wastegate
So i just changed my manifold gasket, turbo/manifold gasket and dump pipe gasket and now i have smoke coming from the turbo manifold area?
One thing i forgot to put back on the car is the external wastegate boost pressure hose on the pressure side of the intercooler pipe but now when it idles for 20/30 seconds it starts smoking a little around the manifold area? the car hasn't been driven but only idled.
the smoke smell is only coming from the external wastegate pipe itself, i smell inside the exhaust manifold and dump pipe and nothing smells like it's burning, one thing i did which was probably the cause of it is i used copper high temp sealant around where the wastegate bolts too as i didn't have a metal gasket on me and also where the dump pipe connects to the front pipe. the sealant is rated to 60 - 370c
I have ordered new metal gaskets for my wastegate and dump but before i bolt that bitch back on Any info will be much appreciated!

Here we have my 180sx, owned it for about 6 months now. Great car, scary to drive which makes it so fun. Anyway ill stop talking and start with the spec.
Perfomance
HKS 2835r Turbo (make up to 310kw)
Apexi fc computer
18psi
3inch High flow cat/Sports Muffler
Spaghetti Manifold
Xedy cushion button Clutch
1000cc Injectors
Braided Turbo lines
Splitfire coilpacks
Oil Catch can
Handling
Torque Dampner
Coilover strut bars front and back
4.11 r33 diff
R33 Front Brakes
Its currently making 275kw atw, Still have plans to make it much faster and bulletproof. Let me know what you guys think and if you's have any tips or ideas. Will post pics of engine and stuff just need to take some more photo's.

S15 Silvia SR20DET Complete Blacktop Engine, 6 speed gearbox, ECU and Loom
Reason for Sale: No longer completing a car project, was going to put it into a TA23 Celica, which I'm also selling.
Out of a S15 Nissan Silvia (JDM), with 250 ps (183.88 kW) / 6400 rpm (274.59 N⋅m) / 4800 rpm
The ECU is stock and from the same car.
Hotside included, as in turbo, manifold, etc.
The gearbox was originally from the same car, so its a pair from factory.
It comes on a pallet for easy shipping. I can organise shipping at the buyers expense.
Link to pics:
http://imgur.com/a/WAw2v
Inspections are welcome.
Hoping for $4800 ono
Pickup from North West of Sydney
Shipping - I can organise it, but you pay for it.

So in the last few weeks, I’ve been trying to gathering general information on a 300rwkw build.
Been through so many threads and but now at a point of information overload with contradicting information on different threads.
The car will be used as a weekend car and will not be tracked.
And yes, I’m well aware that 300rwkw is overkill on the road as it won’t be fully useable.
But this is a goal that I’ve set for myself, hence the 300rwkw target.
So far, this is the list I believe that I will need to get it all going to make the power.
*ENGINE/LONG BLOCK*
1995 180sx sr20det non vct
Tomei Poncams 256/256
Tomei RAS kit
Brian Crower Single Spring/Titanium (might as well while I’m working in there)
Spitfire Coil pack
HKS 750cc Injectors
China cooler 600x300x76
z32 AFM
OEM bottom end
*INTAKE/FUEL*
GReddy intake manifold
60mm throttle body
Fuel pump (Bosch 023)
Tubo back exhaust
Manifold???
*EXHAUST/TURBO*
HyperGear ATR28SS2 T2 350~500HP
Braided turbo lines
Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller
*ECU*
Vipec or Power FC
How much power do you think that this setup will make?
Is there anything I need to change?

HI Guys,
I have an internally standard sr 20, with some Tomei Spring and Tomei 270 Cams.
I had this turbo from another project that i put on and ran, but to be honest its a big laggy for me.
Turbo is a Garret 3082 / 64 rear housing.
JK 0111J / 700177-5014
Here is my dyno from friday's Tune
(gates 15psi - and its just got a ball valve to hold boost, hence its a bit flakey)
Im thinking im not running enough boost to make this thing efficient anyway.
Im very curious how much less lag a 3071/64 would have as i can just keep my housing from the existing setup and not change much.
does this lag seem normal for this size turbo on a sr? is it more the cams?
/discuss
keen to hear your thoughts.

Help!!
I own a 1991 240sx with an sr20det running 17psi. It has and Apexi power fc , Apexi neo, 500cc injectors, walbro 255 and some drive train mods.
The car was driving fine and then suddenly lost all power. Got it home checked the fuses, the fuel pump fuse was blown so I replaced it. It started but only ran for about 2 seconds before killing. Bought a new fuel pump, same thing. Bought a new fpr, same thing. clean injectors and replaced fuel filter, same thing keeps happening. Runs for a second and then dies.
Any ideas anyone?????
I am stumped and sick of replacing parts trying to trouble shoot
Kris

Hi guys, bought a new S13 project recently and working on making it road worthy. The only issue now holding me up is non working hazard lights.
Indicators work but they flash really quickly.
I've changed out the hazard switch with a known working one but same problem.
If I turn on the hazards nothing lights up and indicators don't work either. If i turn off the hazards via the switch the indicators will come back but flash quickly due to a lack of resistance.
Previous owner told me he has changed the relay but this has not solved the problem.
Any thoughts on what might be causing the problem and where I should be looking? I'm not great with diagnosing electrical problems, once I know what to look for can solder and have basic use of multimeter.

Hey there. Question,
So I bought a Silvia S13, motor has an S14 SR20DET in it, use to have a ca18 non turbo. Therefore the car has a LA2 mod plate, according to the info on the QLD exemption form I can get an exemption for it but only under as a HPV ( high performance vehicle ) not under as a MPV ( moderate performance vehicle ) because of the engine swap. Does anyone know if this will limit me being able to drive my car at certain times?
Thanks

Hey buds I'm doing a sr20det swap because my Sr20de clapped (big end knock) and my silvia has an immobiliser. In my swap i have a loom, injectors etc blah blah blah i have it all. But will the immobiliser be a problem during my swap? or when i plug everything in should it all be good and run fine? Cheers

Hey guys, I recently had to reshell my S13 Silvia and my new shell was originally a CA18de, while my original was SR20de which I've now converted to turbo while reshelling. When I went to start it and after cranking for a bit, I noticed it didn't even sound like it wanted to start at all. So since the fuel pump was priming (although it doesn't anymore which is a mystery to me now since fuses seem good) I figured it wasn't getting spark, so I decided to test to see if it was getting spark but holding a coilpack with a sparkplug in it against a bolt on the engine while cranking the motor. After I saw no spark there I decided to crack the test light out and locate the issue. I started at the coilpack loom and quickly found myself at the ECU and realised it wasn't getting any power, which I then traced to the plugs where the passenger headlight is (which I rewired for the conversion according to what I found on the internet) and wasn't getting power to the ECU there either. I also noticed that the EGI relay is only getting power on 1 pin with the ignition on, where as the other relays in the fuse box get power at 2 pins. Is the EGI relay related to the ECU getting power? If so, where does the relay get it's power from? Or would it just be that I wired those plugs at the passenger headlight incorrectly? I just colour matched the wires as per what I read. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I can't figure this out for the life of me, among other electrical issues such as the cluster backlights not turning on, foglights not working, rear parkers/brakelights and only one headlight working, but those are all the least of my worries at the moment.

Hi all
Done some searching on here and cant seem to find any info on weather or not you can put a Double row timing chain into an SR20DET or not ?, if not that's fine and ill just go grab a standard chain but would just like to know as that is my next step
Any help is very much appreciated, cheers

Hi, I've got a '93 180sx that's got a SR20DET from a '97 Type X. I've search all the wiring diagrams I can find and none of the wire colours match up to what I have. I've gone through manuals 91' - '01 English and Japanese without luck. Does anyone know if the type x wiring harness is different at all?