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OK guys, as I just recently tackled this job on the driver's side of my 5-speed manual car, I thought I'd put up a step-by-step how to for the forum

As many of you know, the stock/OEM lip seals had a single lip and were comprised of an outer layer of felt over a rubber/plastic composite with a spring (for shape retention) held together by an aluminum cap. The felt would pick-up and retain outside moisture which would lead to rusting/pitting of the housing and flange, eventually producing final drive oil leaks such as this:

The new preferred seals for this application have a double lip and are composed of solid nitrile (buna-n) rubber with a spring (for shape retention). Your DMC vendor of choice should offer this new style double lipped seal. I purchased mine from DMCMW at a cost of $29.95/ea (less my BRP discount). And I actually ended up wrecking one while trying to install it. Not wanting to shell out another $30 plus shipping, I was able to source an alternative product from Ultimate Industrial Solutions (UIS). Here are the links for the UIS seals which will work for this application:

Shipping on a single item is only $2.50. I personally bought two of the double lips with the stainless springs and my total on the order, including shipping, was only $16.68. AWESOME!

Anyway, if you're going through the trouble of doing this job, then you may as well do it right, which means also ordering some stainless steel flange sleeves and the o-rings that ride the output shafts, PN 103120. DMCMW charges $41/ea for the sleeves and $3.23/ea for the o-rings.

The only other things you'll need to complete this job is replacement gearbox/transaxle oil and some anti-seize. While there's a lot of debate over what oil is best, I ended up going with basic Lucas 80W90. Unless you want to deal with potential future leaks, then I highly recommend staying away from the synthetics, as in addition to costing more, they really don't provide any additional benefits. Whatever oil you decide to buy, make sure it's GL-5 compliant and that you buy enough to completely refill the gearbox/transaxle - system capacity is .97 US Gal / 3.7 Litres.

While the following items aren't necessary, they are highly recommended: automotive grease of some sort and anaerobic sealant/gasket maker.

Here's a summation of the parts/supplies needed:

- New Seal(s) (double lip is strongly recommended) (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $6.82/ea + s/h

- New O-Ring(s), PN 103120 (x2 if you're going to do both sides) $3.23/ea + s/h

Two things to add here. First I tried placing and order with UIS to see what they are selling as the price seemed too good to be true. Turns out it was as their shopping cart won't let you check out and I was finally informed the site will be going down in a few days as they are out of business.

On a brighter note I have been machining axle flanges for years and installing a heavier stainless sleeve that is impervious to the deformation that the aftermarket sleeve is prone to. I will try to put it up on the website soon for anyone who is interested.
Rob

Thanks for the great writeup, Nightflyer! just did this on the driver-side of my car and it was surprisingly a breeze. hardest part was removing the old seal. Replaced the seal & old, rusty axle flange with a new seal & machined flange from PJGrady.

Back before you were born, novadmc, Rob Grady sold solid stainless steel axle flanges. Those were the days.

Actually Matt these are the same ones I've always sold and I'd guess it's been about 15 years. Novadmc must be older than that...especially if he named himself after the Chevy Nova but I don't know about that? They've always been a machined stock flange with an extra heavy stainless sleeve to eliminate any chance of distortion which is the "Achilles heel" of press-on flanges. I'm not sure where the "solid stainless" rumor started but I've heard it before. Urban legends die hard I suppose?
Rob
Rob

Thanks for the great writeup, Nightflyer! just did this on the driver-side of my car and it was surprisingly a breeze. hardest part was removing the old seal. Replaced the seal & old, rusty axle flange with a new seal & machined flange from PJGrady.