Madonna said Italians do it better - London's new pop-up restaurant proves her right

The inevitable dilemma of dining at London's newest part
restaurant, part art gallery: you don't know whether to admire the
installations or inspect the amuse-bouche. Situated at
private members' club 50 St James, Pret A Diner's latest opening in
the capital is entitled "Italians Do It Better" and
see's Italy's best Michelin-starred chefs cooking alongside
work from contemporary artists including multi-media from Monica
Bonvicini, sculpture from Aron Demetz and the pulsating red LED
crosses of Vittorio Corsini.

Curated by Giorgio Locatelli (of Locanda), the restaurant offers
two menus a week: classic Italian fare and a modern menu developed
by five separate Michelin starred guest chefs. GQ.com's visit saw
Locatelli take on Norbert Niederkofler of Dolomite restaurant St
Hubertus. Both opened with vitello tonnato (veal
with tuna sauce), Locatelli's thin sliced and capery effort proving
the favourite over the latter's peppered steak. We also ate
Niederkofler's stunning duck
ragout conchiglioni with candied olive and
orange zest and Locatelli's flawlessly cooked cod fillet on a bed
of lentils.

The desserts however stole the show: Locatelli offering a
perfectly light tiramisu and Niederkofler presenting an innovative
"Delice from green apples", including a Dinner-style sorbet-stuffed fruit submerged in
sour apple foam. The wine list is strong (if priced to fit the
surroundings) - we enjoyed a refreshingly fruity Barbera d'Asti Ca
di Pian and a visit to Tony Conigliaro's 69 Colebrook Row pop-up
downstairs is a must. A stunning evening of fine art and fine
dining - just don't expect to leave with la bella
figura.