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Topic: Not starting and all sorts of electrical problems. (Read 1376 times)

Hi, I got the timing set and was able to start after a number of kicks, and had to advance the timing plate a bit. Problem is that the engine is idling with highly excessive rpms, almost like a full throttle, and turning the carb idler screw makes no difference to the rpm. Should I retard the timing?

If you had the carb apart, check to be sure that the slide is in the right orientation, because it can be put in backwards, and then it won't drop all the way down to the seat, and cause high idle speed.Also, check that the cable isn't hanging up from the bend at the top of the carb.With the bike off, you should be able to hear a click, and see that the slide is all the way down when you let go of the throttle.

And yes, if that isn't the problem, you can try very small increments of retarding the ignition timing to bring the idle down.

AgentX,I don't want to hijack the thread, but how do you make certain the distro gear does not rotate relative to the cam gear while apart?

Amritc, I agree with Ace, something is hanging up, or the adjuster on top of the carb is too tight.

If you are leaving the engine in the frame, then it's easy to just pluck out an idler gear, and then don't just touch the distributor gear again until after you put the cams and idler gears back on. If you are worried about it, then you could use some method to fix it in place, such as duct tape or something like that. I never had any problem with just letting it sit there without touching it.Anyway, it's not really a big deal to check that it is in the correct spot before you put the timing cover back on. And even if you find out that it moved after you put the timing cover back on, the taper fit of the 2 pieces of the distributor shaft allows re-timing of the ignition with the whole thing together anyway. That's the reason for having that 2-piece shaft.It's a nice little system, once you know how it all works, and what you can do with it.

hi everybody, apologies it has taken a few days to get back. So I re-did the timing and checked that the throttle wire has adequate play and nothing snags it - but to no avail. The engine starts after a few kicks AND the kick back I have to say is phenomenal - almost took my foot off - and idles at very high rpms. Making adjustments by retarding/advancing or taking out the carb throttle screw brings the rpms down but very so slightly. The engine is putting out a sooty black exhaust and most interestingly on opening up the throttle the ammeter actually deflects into the negative/red. The battery is brand new (1 week ago) and shows 12.8 V across the terminals when removed from the bike. So, to cut a long story short, the bike was put onto a trailer and sent off to the dealership. A lesson for all budding Royal Enfield mechanical enthusiasts...... if it works (which my bike was absolutely doing until I decided to open her up completely) do not fix/fiddle with it! Will update all once it is back with the $$ spent learning a costly lesson.

If unscrewing the idle screw does not decrease the engine speed, then I would look at the adjustment of the ferrule at the top of the carburetor. If that ferrule is adjusted to short, the effect would be to shorten the throttle cable (Bowden cable) thus raising the engine speed.

If the ammeter deflects to the left, I would first suspect that the two wires to the ammeter have been reversed. I believe that would cause the ammeter read backwards when the engine revved.

Hi:Your picture shows a really nice bike. It also shows that you have the micarb to feed the fuel charge into your engine. I had similar problems of high idle etc with that carb and I couldn't get it under control. Mine would begin to race at a stop sign or red light, I wasn't gunning the throttle. The only way I could slow the engine down was to shut it off and turn it back on. Some times this would work and some times it wouldn't. People nearby in cars would look at me like I was trying to race the engine to compete with them. Frankly I was embarrassed and decided to try the 30mm flat slide carb sold by our hosts. I haven't had difficulties since. SO much for the micarb. Just my experience.Neil and Buzzy the Bullet:

hi everyone and thanks for all your assistance. Got the bike back from the dealership. Stung for a good $340..... Timing was completely out, it seems they had to get the main drive shaft out and re-time. Carb was runnign too rich so a reset as well as a replacement of the main jet from 112 to 110?? Change of spark plug as I had the wrong one in (NGK BS8ES). Runs rather smoothly now except for a few wiring niggles.. i.e.intermittent brake light, so will sort those out over the next few days.

MrUnderhill you were quite right as in the ammeter was wired incorrectly hence the deflection to negative. All sorted now. thanks.

Rode it back from the dealership - some 50kms from home of which 30kms consisted of a motorway so was quite pleased to get the bike to 100kph with some coaxing but she got there. With summer fast approaching I am looking forward to riding. cheers