VX900 POWER LITE COMES ON WHEN MONITOR IS PLUGGED IN, BUT IT BLINKS ( ABOUT 4 PER SEC ) AND IS ORANGE -- THE POWER SUPPLY CHECKS OUT OK AT 12 VOLTS -- THANKS !! AL at ALTEN0@COMCAST.NET -- BOULDER, Colo 80302 -- WHERE CAN WE GET SERVIC MANUAL FOR THIS MONITOR ??

Hi
Even though you show 12 volts, you could still be coming up short in amps on your powerboard.
Updating the capacitors (all of them except for possibly the main) may correct this.
If that doesn't do it, then the inverter is the next target to check.
Fran

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Hi,
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I really feel the problem is the Power Supply.Why?1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is. (Older Intel Pentium III's, II's, and so on, use less power than 51 Watts. Same with older AMD processors )

(The PSU { Power Supply Unit} in your personal computer is a SMPS.Switched-Mode Power Supply)

Click on the photo to the upper right, in the link above. The letter B is on the top of an Electrolytic Capacitor. You are looking at a Top View.The blue ring is part of a plastic sleeve, which goes around the 'can' case of the capacitor.These large capacitors are in the Input Stage.

The letter E is near a few more Electrolytic Capacitors. These capacitors are in the Output Stage.These capacitors are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.This is a side view of an example,

The top capacitor is an Axial Electrolytic Capacitor. The leads come out of each end. The bottom capacitor is a Radial Electrolytic Capacitor. Both leads come out of the same end. The capacitors in your Power Supply, and on your motherboard, are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Your Power Supply converts AC electricity form your home, or business, and turns it into low DC electricity.

In the power cables coming from the Power Supply.1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts2) Red wires are 5 Volts3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts(All DC voltage)Black wires are Ground wires.

Now, about the voltage power rail.All 3.3 volt wires (Orange), end in one central 3.3 Volt point, in the Power Supply.The central point is the 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same for the 5 Volt power rail. All 5 Volt wires (Red), end in one central 5 Volt point, in the Power Supply.Same for the 12 Volt power rail.

This means, for example, if you test one Orange wire, and it shows 3.3 Volts on the multimeter, the 3.3 Volt power rail is good.Test one Red wire in a power cable. Shows 5 Volts, or VERY near?The 5 Volt power rail is good.Same thing for the 12 Volt power rail.

One method to check the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail.Use a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable. (The connector on the cable is misnomered as a 'Molex' connector),

Most of the time there is an unused Peripheral power cable.You can use it's Red wire, Yellow wire, and Black wire, to test for 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.

Disregard the following if you are aware;An economical multimeter can be purchased for around $5 to $12.Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.Analog, or Digital, is fine.

The Red lead is the Positive lead. The metal tip is the probe. I refer to both as the Positive probe lead. The Black lead is the Negative lead.

The Positive probe lead ALWAYS goes to the power wire to be tested.3.3 Volt, or 5 Volt, or 12 Volt.The Negative lead ALWAYS goes to Ground. (A-N-Y Black wire, is a Ground wire)

Computer sitting on a table, or workbench, computer case open, 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, untangled, and pulled to the outside where you can access it easily, the computer is plugged into power.

The center knob in the middle of the multimeter, is the Function Knob.It is set to DC Voltage.If there are only symbols, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.(NOT a curved line over a solid line)

If there is more than one setting for DC Voltage, set it to the 0 to 50 Volt scale.

Turn the computer on. Holding the connector in your hand, of the 4-pin Peripheral power cable, insert the Positive probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with the Red wire.

Hold the probe lead, with the hand that is already holding the connector. With the other hand, insert the Negative probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with one of the two Black wires.

Watch the multimeter. You should be reading close to 5 Volts.Test the 12 Volt wire using this method also. (Yellow wire, and Black wire. Black wire is Ground. Either one of them)

The 3.3 Volt power rail is tested using the Orange wire, in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.

Power cable plugged into the motherboard, as in the photo to the right.At the end of every wire, going into that long whitish connector with 24 socket holes, is a metal terminal.

The metal terminal is pretty far down in the socket hole. The probe lead must touch the metal terminal, but cannot due to it's size.Use a straightened out paper clip.

The paper clip's diameter is small enough to slide into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange wire, and touch the metal terminal.Then the Positive probe lead is held against it. (Or with an alligator clip attachment, it is clipped on)

Do the same for A-N-Y of the Black wires. They are all Ground wires. Pick one. Insert a straightened out paper clip. The Negative probe lead touches it.(Paper clips inserted, THEN computer turned on. It is only 3.3 Volts DC, but I want you to feel safe)

The adapter is REGULATED 12vdc 6a power supply that can handle the load up to 6a, if when is has load on it and the voltage drops down to 2.5vdc, teh it is that the power supply is bad or you have shorted circuits in the monitor. You can test the power supply using 12v car lamp such as #1157 bulb to test your power supply under load.
Caps in the power supply do go bad as you can see in my pictures here:http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Bad%20capacitors/?action=view&current=badcaps2.jpg

You will need at least a 4 amp rated regulated 12 Volt power supply.These are commercialy available from most electronics parts suppliers.They come on a circuit board. You can mount it in your own case anduse the original Viewsonic wire end. If you do a google search for 12volt reglated power supplies you should find many of these.

However, with a second-hand Sprint AC adapter with 3A,12v adapter, the screen blinks on and offintermittently. Obviously there is some difference here between a class2 adapter and a power supply box.

Good Day,mikeybecerra;
TV wont come on mb try these 6 items, please pay attention to the blinking light (it's a code) : 1. Check for no 8.4 volts DC at pin 3 of PC9A10 on the Power PCB, if low or missing replace PC9A10 part # 268P058020. 2. LED does not blink at plug in. Check for 3.3-volts DC at connector RF pin 3 (system reset) if low or missing suspect the reset switch S7L20 part # 432P109010 on the Control PCB. 3. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067001 4. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B10, and C9B11 (1000 UFD 16) on the DM PCB, if they are bad replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 UFD 16 V). LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 3.2 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D736001 6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 934C061001.
Good Luck, big IRISH.

Good Day, TSIRS;
Try all of these:
This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source) 1. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR LEAKY C9A60 470 PF 1000 V PART # 154P400030, PARALLEL TO D9A57 ON THE POWER PCB. 2. SHUTDOWN AT POWER WITH SELF DIAGNOSIS ERROR 2 2. CHECK FOR OPEN FUSES F9A04 AND F9A05 PART # 283P043090 ON THE +24 AND -24 VOLT LINES. IF THE FUSES ARE OPEN THE CONVERGENCE OUTPUT CIRCUIT WOULD BE SUSPECT.
1. Check for 12 volts DC (AC-off detect) at pin 3 of PC9A21, if missing replace PC9A21 part # 268P058020 on the Power PCB. 2. LED does not blink at plug in. Check for 5-volts DC at connector RF pin 3 (system reset) if low or missing suspect the reset switch S7L20 part # 432P089010 on the Control PCB. 3.LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check for 12 volts at connect or PF pin 10 and 28 volts at connector PF pin 11, if the supplies are correct suspect a problem in the DM Assembly (part # 955C230002) 4. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. Check C9B01, C9B02, C9B03, C9B13, C9B14, C9B17 and C9B18 (1000 UFD, 16V, 105C) on the DM Power PCB located within the DM Assembly. If they are bad, replace them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C). See Service Tip VS-76 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Check for 4.7 volts DC at connector RF pin 4 and 5 on the Signal PCB if low suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB part # 935D587002 7. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked and key inputs at connector RF pin 4 and 5 check good suspect the E2P PCB part # 935C978002.
Good Luck, big IRISH.

have you tested the power supply connection feeds? test each connector I think you will find your power supply has failed on either the 5 volt or the 12 volt side more than likely 5 volts are down' the agp adapter needs 5 volts to run. since you have changed out every thing else I would replace that or test your dads power supply in your computer, that should do the trick

1. this is may be due to the 5 volt power supply. which may be down. the current u can measure is ok (5volts) but the ampers may be down. because in off or stand by position it consume very little current but at the time of self test it consume more then 900 milliamps. ( replace the regulator of 5 volt)
2. May be the EHT transformer drive transistors are short. check them, if there is any leakage or if they are short then replace them.