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There are 3 things that will make a gas dryer not ignite. 1. the main controller 2. high limit thermostat, which disconnects power to the igniter if the dryer overheats 3. the electronic or electric igniter. There are 2 types of igniters static that sounds like a ticking noise before it lights and a thermal that glows red hot to ignite the burner. Most dryers will attempt to ignite 3 times and will shut down if the burner does Not ignite to keep unburned gasses from being expelled.
With the front cover off also called the kick pan, look at the burner assembly and you will either see the spark igniter (like a giant spark plug) or the thermal igniter glow red hot. If the igniter does not activate, and the drum is turning, it is either the igniter, or the high limit thermostat stuck in the open position and needs to be replaced.
Both can be purchased from EBAY and will save you lots of money.

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter)
glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to
measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet
before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that
open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up.
The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets
older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough
current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result,
the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages
of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to
delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter,
you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also
crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will
not light - you should have an amp probe
to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The
hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open
the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is
just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit
part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of
times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter.
See this service sheet
for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system.
Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat
than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow
marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open
but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When
this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the
point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a
small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the
oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still
be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

It sounds to me like your gas valve is bad. If you can get induced draft motor to come on then Hot surface ignitor to come on the next step should be lighting burner. I would check to verify that you have fuel to unit and if you do I would reccomend you get a new gas valve. Hope this helps. Thanks

Check for 24 volts across the gas valve when Ignitor is glowing. If no, bad board. If yes, bad gas valve or blockage.On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

say that you have the glow bar (Hot surface igniter) workingif the flame starts make sure you don't trash on the orifice of the burner, you can try to use a piece of wire or someting small to pick on the orifice of the burner, also make sure is not rust bewteen the burners gap where the flame spread to all the burners because if the flame sensor don't feel flame don't stay light uphopes this help

If the bake igniter glows bright grange and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve will not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

Sounds like a sticking gas valve or a defective hot surface igniter. Open the broiler drawer or remove the bottom cover in the oven compartment. The oven usually has a hot surface igniter or a spark igniter. Turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start glowing. It should glow very bright. Once it is glowing the burner gas should come on. If you hear the gas come on it should light right away. If there is any delay shut off the oven and stay back. Let the gas clear out then inspect the area near the igniter and make sure the burner is not plugged(the little holes may have debris in them). If you turn on the oven and the igniter comes,glows brightly,no gas is heard but you can smell gas it is either a blocked burner orfice/assembly or sticking gas control valve. Try giving the burner and gas control valve a tap and see if it comes on. If you tap the control valve and it starts working then shut of the oven and try it several times. If it starts to come on and off now you may have cleared whatever debris was causing the problem. If it does it again then it could be the control valve or a weak hot surface igniter. The igniter can be tested with a ohm meter. Most of the time when I get this complaint it is the oven control valve that is sticking. Be very careful when doing these procedures....gas can build up in the oven compartment very quicky and flash if ignited. Always have the gas shut off valve at the back of the range within reach and the electrical outlet in case you need to unplug it.