64 Saigon/Hanoi Vietnam
reunified in 1975, but the
two sides never quite
stopped bickering. lien
hoang jumps into the fray,
making the cases for both
major cities. photographed
by morgan ommer . guide
page 73

74

A Beach of His Own
Deep in an eight-year love
affair with Koh Phayam,
ian lloyd neubauer

reflects on how this Thai
island in the Andaman Sea
has held onto his heart.
map and guide page 77

80 Zambia Up Close With
top-tier guides, plentiful
wildlife and a circuit of
simple yet stylish bush
camps and river lodges,
this under-the-radar safari
destination is Africa for
purists. On wheels, on
water and on foot—and
from the vantage point of
his own bathtub—peter
jon lindberg gets an
intimate look at Zambia.

90 IT List For our annual
editors’ choice awards,
we’ve logged thousands of
kilometers to find the 61
extraordinary hotels that
are transforming their
destinations.

29 Six Dishes: Penang
Where to try the best local
fare in George Town.
by robyn eckhardt

30 Canton Cool New hotels
and boutiques are giving a
fresh edge to Guangzhou.
by helen dalley

32 Taiwan Speaks Up
Speakeasies add a dash of
mystery, a dollop of cool to
Taipei. by cain nunns
40 A Hostel Environment
“Chic hostel” is no longer
an oxymoron. diana
hubbell checks out the new
way to rough it easy.
50 Flying Solo Finding the
perfect travel companion
can be as easy as looking in
the mirror. cristina m . de
oliveira helps you plan an
adventure for one.

12 …

contr ibu tors

Plus Hotels in Thailand
with killer views; what to
do in Hyderabad; a hot
designer’s travel tips; the
best airport bars; and more.

Trip Doctor

55 Q+A The truth behind
resort fees; how much hotel
points are really worth;
and what to do about a
damaged room.
57 Planning How to find the
perfect learning vacation,
whether you’re interested
in Vietnamese cuisine or
Komodo dragons.
60 Deals An eco-escape in
Malaysia; a five-star
Bangkok hotel with spa
benefits; and more.
Plus What to pack for a
diving trip; apps that help
you save on last-minute
bookings; and more.

Decoder
106 Singapore Often written
off as too staid, the
city-state is continually
evolving—its restaurants,
night spots, hotels and
other diversions leading
Asia into the global
spotlight, writes
christopher kucway .

Strategies
113 Hotels A to Z Our guide
on how to be the ultimate
insider, or at least score a
better room.

Last Look

122 Anini Beach, Hawaii
A coral-ringed cove
less-traversed on the
northshore of Kauai.
photographed by ted and
debbie .

The bookstore at
Fang Suo Commune,
Guangzhou, page 30.

10

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c o u r t e sy o f fa n g s u o

Radar

dest i nat ions

Destinations

June 2013
123

30
122

K aua i

H y de r a ba d

G ua n gzhou

36

106
74
S i n ga pore
80

Koh Ph aya m
106

Z a m bi a

destination

page

when to go

what US$5 buys

who to follow

Guangzhou

30

April and May, October and November.
(Typhoon season falls in between.)

One well-drink or glass of house
wine at Rebel Rebel Café and Bar.

@GuangzhouStuff

Hyderabad

36

Winter (October through February) is the
most pleasant. March, April and May are
extremely hot, and are followed by monsoon
season.

A colorful scarf or locally crafted
bangles at Shilparamam, a
cultural village.

@TOIHyderabad

Koh Phayam

74

October through April.

The one-way ferry ride from
Ranong.

@Kohphayam

Zambia

80

May through September for optimal game
viewing and receding floods at Victoria Falls.
But you’ll find good prices in April.

Three hours of Internet time at a
cybercafé.

@thebestofzambia

Singapore

106

Temperatures steadily hover around 30
year-round. July through October sees less
tourist traffic.

Three rides on the MRT.

@TimeOutSG

Kauai

122

North shore beach waters are calmest during
the summer months; the south shore is a
safer bet during the winter.

A Double Bubba burger made
with fresh-ground Kauai-raised
beef, at Bubba’s.

@NorthShoreKauai

Long Weekend

12

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Beach

Active

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

Food+Drink

Shopping

Arts+Culture

Editor’s Note

where to find me
chrisk@mediatransasia.com
@CKucway on Twitter

This Must Be
the Place

Retro touches at
Bangkok’s new
DoubleTree by Hilton

our next stops

Boracay

Sri Lanka
Rangoon
Asia’s Quiet
Beaches

The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most
reliable sources. While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take
press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
14

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w a s i n e e c h a n ta k o r n

I

t’s no great secret that hotel service is a strong suit throughout
Asia, but what isn’t always obvious is the region-wide push
towards quality accommodation in all price ranges. Brands that
are often mediocre at best in other parts of the world are coming
up with some innovative looks as they expand around Asia.
These new hotels and resorts are most impressive when they
combine a playful outlook with facilities we expect and services
that go above and beyond. This month’s focus on hotels offers up
an endless string of examples—though you’d be hard pressed to
pick up any issue of the magazine without reading of another
address you would love to call home for a night or three.
Our annual IT List (page 90), the best of the world’s new hotels,
is always an inspiring read and this year the full weight of
properties in Asia comes to the fore. From Bhutan to New Zealand,
Bangkok to Penang, and many stops in between, this is the ultimate
to-stay list.
Of course, all these hotels and resorts depend on their staff, and
we’ve included the very finest in the World’s Best Service Awards
(page 119). Again, even though it’s a global count, this region figures
prominently. You’ll see that the highest ranked city hotel in the
world, the Peninsula Hong Kong, is run by general manager Rainy
Chan. In fact, we’re glad to report that three of the top-rated city
hotels in Asia have female general managers. So we decided to zero
in on this often-overlooked detail by asking the Mandarin Oriental
Bangkok’s Amanda Hyndman and The Peninsula Bangkok’s Katja
Henke for their picks of the city this month (“Views from the
River,” page 38).
If all the talk about hotels, resorts and room service makes you
yearn for a simpler escape, a place to turn off your mobile phone
and watch the sun set, iced drink in hand, then it’s time you visit
Koh Phayam (“A Beach of His Own,” page 74), where writer Ian
Lloyd Neubauer returns to get off the grid. That, too, is one of Asia’s
strong suits.— christopher kucway

Contributors

Writer
“Flying Solo”
(page 50).

Morgan
Ommer

Photographer
“Saigon/Hanoi”
(page 64).

Darren
Soh

italian lessons My first
major trip alone was to
Rome, at 19. Day one, I woke
at dawn for a marathon of a
tour, but at the end I had
nothing to say about what
I’d seen. Rome wasn’t built
in a day and there was no
reason I had to traverse the
Eternal City’s seven hills in
24 hours. The next day I sat
in a café with a book, taking
in the sights, smells and
sounds. most daunting
solo trip In Thailand in
late August 2008, during
civil unrest, I nearly got
stranded at Phuket airport.
An hour after my flight to
Bangkok left, mobs took
over the runways and
terminals at HKT and shut
it down. My positive travel
karma was in overdrive that
day. when eating alone,
avoid… Food that can get
stuck in your teeth (sorry,
pesto). Sometimes you need
a friend across the table to
keep you in check.

explain “viet kieu” My
mother is Vietnamese—
which makes me officially a
Viet kieu, a Vietnamese
returnee. Locals mostly use
it for Vietnamese who were
born here, lived abroad and
are now back, or for secondgeneration Vietnamese who
may have been born and
raised abroad but in a
Vietnamese community.
Which makes me an almost
perfect stranger. what do
you like most about
vietnam The chaos. Think
of the motorcycle traffic:
this applies to daily life, and
it also applies to work. Life
in Vietnam is a joyous kind
of chaos brimming with
youthful optimism and very
good food. conservative
yet progressive
culture I really don’t see
it as a contradiction. There’s
a long history of absorbing
foreign culture, and using it
against invaders to repel
them.

favorite remnants of
“old singapore” All the
post-war mid-century
architectural buildings,
including iconic apartments
like The Pearl Bank. best
thing about “new
singapore” The chance to
savor cuisine by celebrity
chefs—partly a consequence
of the flurry of recently
opened integrated resorts.
where do you live
Sembawang, a
neighborhood in the north,
where there’s an eclectic
mix of old rustic mosques, a
real hot spring, a biker bar
with great pub grub and
some of the best seafood
vermicelli on this island. so
where to for lunch
Kok Sen Restaurant, at 30
Keong Saik Road, one of the
best Singaporean Chinese
restaurants in town, and
one that won’t burn a hole in
your pocket. Their
prawn-paste fried chicken is
to die for.

Photographer
“Decoder: Singapore”
(page 106).

‘Rome wasn’t built in a day
and there was no reason I had
to traverse the Eternal City’s
seven hills in 24 hours.’
— CRISTINA DE OLIVEIRA

Opening Doors
I recently read your article on Doors restaurant in Phnom
Penh [“Cambodia’s Hipster Hotspot,” May 2013]. As a
long-term Phnom Penh resident, I can confirm that Doors
is a very welcome addition to the restaurant and nightlife
scene. The food, drinks, service and live entertainment are
some of the best in the city. I would recommend it to
anyone visiting Cambodia’s capital.
f

Ashley Phelps phnom penh
Q: How-To Hong Kong

What are some good tips for a
first-time visitor to Hong Kong?
@TravLeisureAsia #TLAsia
@butterfli253
southern california

Malaysia, Ahoy!

I loved your story about sailing from
Langkawi to Penang [“Throw off the
Bowlines,” May 2013]. Sailing school
sounds like a blast! It’s nice to know
there are other oceanic options here
in Asia besides diving. I cracked up
reading the anecdote about “kicking
the donkey.” The only problem? I was
rooting for you to chuck that Nicolai
overboard! Oh well.
Kelly McDurkin
singapore

contact
info

A: So glad you asked! Our expert Hong
Kong expat, Helen Dalley, offers the
following ideas:
1) Ascend: The Peak, of course. Try
Cafe Deco for affordable eats.
2) Appreciate art: Visit some of the
city’s world-class galleries, including
White Cube and Gallerie Perrotin
(both at 50 Connaught Rd., Central).
3) Go global: Chungking Mansions
(36–44 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui,
Kowloon) is a high-rise warren with
an international, if slightly down-atheel, vibe. There are great Indian
restaurants and supermarkets.
4) Day-trip: Take the ferry to Lantau
island, the bus to Cheung Sha beach
and then have dinner at The Stoep
(852/2980-2699) on the beach.
5) Drink in the view: Get cocktails at
Ozone at Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong’s
tallest bar, located in ICC; the
martinis are great but very potent.

tleditor@mediatransasia.com,
travelandleisureasia.com, f facebook.com/
TravelLeisureAsia, or @TravLeisureAsia. Comments may be

travel+leisure southeast asia
Vol. 7, Issue 6
Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood
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Reproduction in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner is prohibited.

In a quiet corner of Lombok, a boutique resort is opening its
doors to travelers in search of solitude. By Holly McDonald
More than ever, travelers to Indonesia are itching to strike out past popular Bali. The new Jeeva Beloam
(jeevabeloam.com; US$295), on neighboring Lombok, makes a compelling case for venturing eastward. In a
sense, Jeeva Beloam is one of a new breed of places to stay defined partly by what they don’t have: no TVs, no
Wi-Fi, no crowds, no noise. The owners are decidedly modest when they call the five bungalows of recycled
wood with alang-alang roofs a “beach camp.” Set on their own arc of white sand, the spacious rooms with
mosquito-draped beds have a rustic charm; this is beachside luxury, done simply—“glamping” if you must.
Relish the isolation and serenity by curling up on the veranda daybed and watching the occasional fisherman
saunter into the cove with the day’s offerings for the open-air restaurant. Kayaking, snorkeling, diving, fishing,
surfing and trekking are all nearby diversions. Or just sun yourself and listen to the late-afternoon storms
cracking out even further east. You can glimpse the jagged peaks of Sumbawa in the distance. ✚

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

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23

Radar

countryside
Samroiyod

h ot e l s

Pick Your
Panorama
The landscape in Thailand is a
glut of picture-perfect scenery.
Here are four new hotels and
resorts that take advantage of
their surroundings.
By Merritt Gurley
24

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Beneath a jagged hill
on the east coast,
Baan Buang Bua
has just three villas,
with roof terraces to
watch the sunset,
and a pondside
garden where you’ll
be served your meals
by the owners, a
lovely Thai family.
The daughter, chatty
five-year-old Pan
Pan, may even treat
you to curry puffs.
66-84/458-5048;
baanbuangbua.com;
Bt2,000.

city
Bangkok

Smack-dab in
Bangkok’s hip
fashion district of
Pratunam and five
minutes from the
Airport Express link,
the new Centara
Watergate
Pavillion Hotel is a
four-star with 281
fab rooms, from
singles to family
suites. The outdoor
pool with shaded
gazebos has a killer
view. 66-2/6251235; centarahotels
resorts.com; Bt1,890.

river
Chiang Mai

Drink in views of the
rolling Ping River at
Sala Lanna Chiang
Mai. This is Sala’s
second boutique
property in the
country and, with 16
high-design villas,
the resort maintains
a decidedly intimate
ambiance. The
two-bedroom
riverfront suite has a
private pool and a
deck where you can
tan. 66-5/324-2588;
salaresorts.com/
lanna; Bt2,800.

beach
Koh Samui

In a quiet cove on
the powdery shores
of Chaweng Noi
Beach, Vana Belle
is a superlative spot
to laze. The 80
suites and villas have
private terraces and
pools over the
ocean, in a distinctly
Thai style: wooden
furnishings and art
inspired by the local
myth of the mystical
Himmapan forest.
66-77/915-555;
vanabellekohsamui.
com; Bt15,000.

Clockwise from top left:
Country living at Baan Buang
Bua; Bangkok’s skyline at
Centara; bird’s-eye Chiang Mai;
shades of blue at Vana Belle.

Radar
c r u is i n g

Rooms for
Sail

goods

Malaysia
in a Mist
“Boy I wish that I smelled like this
Asian city!” may not be most oftuttered phrase but, whatever the
demand, Josh Lee is ready with the
supply. Lee, a Malaysia-born perfume
master, recently released George Town,
a unisex eau de toilette inspired by the
area of Penang where he grew up. The
perfume comes with a story: the tale of
a merchant sitting at the jetty in
George Town, sipping tea as the sun
rises and then slowly making his way

through the trading grounds where
local spices, foods and flowers mingle
in an olfactory harmony. This vision
inspired Lee’s warm mixture of
nutmeg, cinnamon, star anise,
cardamom, rose, hibiscus, sandalwood,
musk and patchouli, designed to
capture the city’s heritage in a bottle.
For travelers looking to bring a piece of
Penang home with them, what better
souvenir than a scent?
joshleefragrances.com; RM118.

The Alila Purnama
in Indonesia.

obsession

best in sew

The sewing kit from
London’s Savoy hotel, in
a Liberty of London silk pouch.

26

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It’s a good thing I’m heading to London this month since I just lost a button on my
favorite Brunello Cucinelli jacket. A needle and thread is hard to find in a jeans-andT-shirt world; my local drugstore sells mostly useless assortments (orange?). A
good hotel, however, understands the art of the sewing kit: a discreet envelope or
fitted box with a sliding top, colors I want, and—a thrill every time—threaded
needles. I squirrel one away every night, hoping for another. If it doesn’t come, I’m
not above filling my pockets at the housekeeper’s cart. —stephen drucker

High-end hotels are taking to
the water, deploying luxury
yachts to give guests a taste of
the sailing life. In Indonesia, the
46-meter, five-cabin Alila
Purnama (alilahotels.com;
US$54,000 a week for up to 10
people) joins Alila’s two
terra-firma properties in Bali.
The teak-and-rattan phinisi
carries guests to neighboring
islands for snorkeling and
massages on deserted beaches.
+ This winter, Soneva Resorts will
launch Soneva in Aqua (soneva.
com; from US$4,375 a day for up
to four people) in the Maldives—
the sleek, two-cabin seaborne
villa will come complete with a
chef, dive master, spa therapist
and 24/7 butler, and will cruise
to less-explored atolls and reefs.
+ Also on the horizon: La
Sultana Yacht (lasultana​hotels.
com; nine days from US$7,545
per person), a sister to hotels in
Marrakesh and Oualidia, Morocco.
The former Soviet spy ship is
getting a serious upgrade and will
have seven James Bond–worthy
Moorish-style rooms.
—maria shollenbarger

Radar
d is c ov e r y

Star
Search

Travelers are turning their eyes
skyward in search of cosmic
spectacles that are, in some
cases, quite literally once in a
lifetime. By Diana Hubbell
Take a Cruise

Cosmic Calendar

Celestial happenings are always on the
horizon. Here, three you should get a
clear shot of from Asia.
Comet ISON Keep your eyes peeled
this winter for what some astronomers
are already calling the comet of the
century. If it survives as it hurtles close
to the sun, the 5-kilometer-wide comet
will develop a tail so brilliant that it
may well be visible to the naked eye
during daylight. The comet will be
brightest on November 28, 2013, but
should still be visible through midJanuary 2014.
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Top: Solar eclipse. Below: A laser
tour of the New Zealand sky.

Geminid Meteor Shower With as

many as 120 meteors an hour, this is
your best chance during the year to see
shooting stars—just wait until after the
bright moon sets, around 4:30 a.m.
December 13 and 14, 2013.
Total Solar Eclipse, Indonesia Sure,
it’s almost three years away, but there’s
no harm in planning ahead—especially
with the number of tourists angling for
hotel reservations and tours in the
area. The best viewing will actually be
in the Pacific Ocean just east of
Indonesia, but the event will still be
visible from land. March 9, 2016.

Bright Nights

If all you’re after is a particularly
beautiful patch of night sky, here are a
few superlative spots for stargazing.
Lake Tekapo, New Zealand

Astronomy guides at Mt. John
Observatory give nightly tours of the
southern sky using lasers to point out

notable constellations. Through the
lens of one of their powerful telescopes
you can get a closer look at familiar
planets and far-off clusters of stars.
earthandsky.co.nz; adults NZ$135.
Pisco Elqui, Chile At Elqui Domos,
about a two-hour drive from La Serena,
there is an observatory with two
electronic Schmidt-Cassegrain type
telescopes. Stay in one of the facility’s
dome rooms, which have removable
roofs, for an unimpeded view of the
vast night sky. elquidomos.cl; doubles
from US$125.
Emil Valley, Turkey This trip through
Turkey is led by astronomy expert Dr.
John Mason, who conducts evening
lessons on nights spent camping out
under the stars, well clear of the light
pollution of neighboring cities.
astronomytours.co.uk/tours/activecappadocia-astronomy-kids; eight-day
trip from £1,489 per person including
flights within the itinerary. ✚

This year’s astronomical showstopper
is undeniably the hybrid solar eclipse
that will occur on November 3. Cruises
such as those run by the following two
lines bring budding astronomers to
eastern Africa—the best place for
viewing—in style. On the open sea, far
from city lights, is the perfect spot to
take in the event, with plenty of room
on deck to set up private telescopes.
TravelQuest International combines
eclipse viewing with land tours and
safaris, if you’re feeling even more
adventurous. Travelquesttours.com;
2013 West Africa Total Solar Eclipse
Cruise: Spain to Sierra Leone, October
22 through November 5, 2013, doubles
from US$9,980.
Ring of Fire Expeditions offers other
astronomical expeditions, as well,
including cruises to Alaska to view the
aurora borealis. eclipsetours.com; Solar
Eclipse Cruise October 28 to November
9, 2013, from US$4,469 per person.

Radar
food

Six Dishes: Penang
Our meal-by-meal guide on where to try the best local
fare in George Town, Penang.

Plump freshwater prawns, slicked
with an irresistible sweet-sour
tamarind and black soy sauce glaze,
are just one delicious reason you can
expect to queue at this friendly,
decades-old Teochew-Malaysian
restaurant. 18-20 Carnarvon St.;
60-12/981-5117; meal for two RM60.

For a distinctive version of this
ubiquitous Southeast Asian dish, the
vendor fries the omelettes—made of
thin potato starch batter topped with a
broken egg—and oysters separately. An
omelette with lacy crisp edges and a
springy center is the happy result.
194 Chulia St.; RM6 per omelet.

dinner
Lor ark
at Kebaya

dessert
Gula Melaka ice cream
at China House

for the flight home
Kueh lapis
at Sunflower Homemade Cake

Gilded Chinese panels and marble
tables set an elegant stage for modern
takes on Straits and Indo-Chinese
classics, such as this crispy confit duck
leg perched atop a sliced breast, served
with plum wedges in rich braising
liquid heady with star anise and
cloves. Stewart Ln.; 60-4/264-2333;
7terraces.com; three-course fixed price
menu RM125 per person.

This final course will sate your sweet
tooth. With hints of butterscotch and
coffee, gula Melaka (Malaysian
coconut palm sugar) was made to star
in ice cream. A single scoop studded
with nuggets of soft sugar pairs
perfectly with their buttery
macadamia shortbread. 153 and 155
Beach St.; 60-4/263-7299; chinahouse.
com.my; dessert for two RM28.

Eighteen sheer layers of buttery batter,
painstakingly poured by hand and
baked one after the other in the same
pan, makes for an edible souvenir as
visually striking as it is tasty. Make
sure to polish off this moist cake
within a week, before it spoils. It packs
well, so bring back a few to share. 117A
Lorong Hutton; from RM13 for 250
grams.—roby n eck har dt

Photograped by David Hagerman

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Radar

on the map

Canton Cool

New hotels and boutiques are giving travelers good reason to
check out Tianhe, Guangzhou’s upscale business district.
skirt) in addition to books
and magazines in a chic
minimalist space. Shop
MU83, Taikoo Hui, 383
Tianhe Rd.; taikoohui.com.

represents Starwood’s first
foray into mainland China
with its hip hotel brand.
Recline on a driftwood sofa
in the Woobar over a cup of
lavender Earl Grey by day, or
enjoy the tunes and mingle
with the in-crowd by night.
26 Xian Cun Rd., starwood
hotels.com; doubles from
RMB1,670.—helen dalley

Designed to resemble an
upscale Chinese residence
with its dark wood paneling
and high ceilings, Mandarin
1

Radar

The exclusive and
elusive Alchemy bar.

drink

Taipei Speaks Up

Three new speakeasies are adding a dash of mystery and a
dollop of cool to Taiwan’s bar scene. By Cain Nunns
Taipei’s nightlife used to be known for
its liberal splashes of low. Tacky
plastic-chandelier-infested bar-clubs
held dominion, while high rollers
reserved sofas and ordered champagne
bottle sparklers to trumpet their
ridiculous expense.
But the times they are changing.
Speakeasies, the quintessential
prohibition-style bars that have taken
root in New York and London for their
premium booze and even more
premium bartenders, have started to
carve out a small niche in Asia’s
forgotten capital.
Across the road from the World
Trade Center in the steel-and-glass
district of Xinyi is second-floor bar
Alchemy (2F, No. 16-1, Section 5, Xin Yi
Rd.; 886-9/5358-5759; drinks for two
NT$800). It was a labor of love for
award-winning owner and bartender
Angus Zhao, who fretted over whether
the city was ready for a reservationonly bolt hole that doesn’t allow
standing customers or walk-ins.
Fear not. Booze-enthusiasts are
lining up for the noir ambience of this
classy nightery.
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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

While Alchemy’s honeycomb
cherry-wood paneled walls and
ceilings, marble bar, brass fixtures,
crystal glasses and leather gullwing
chairs scream authenticity, the drinks
and service deliver it in whiskey ryeand swing music-backed abandon. The
philosophy is straightfoward: fewer
customers, more attentive service.
“It’s about the people and protecting
my clients,” Zhao says with obvious
relish. “I have a Japanese friend who
opened a bar in a forest. It has one
stool. One stool!”
Zhao’s Heart of Aztec cocktail—a
Don Julio Reposado, honey, Cacao
liqueur, Angostura 1999 Rum,
Maraschino, syrup, lime and bitters—
goes down smooth and will have you
ordering another right on its heels.
A five-minute taxi ride takes you to
Ounce (No. 40, Lane 63, Dunhua South
Rd., Section 2, Daan District; 8862/2708-6885; ouncetaipei.com; drinks
for two NT$800). A café front gives way
to a hidden door on its left flank, and a
secret button offering entry to a
crooked room in burnt orange
buttressing a straight bar. Whiskey-

barrel tables dot the space. It’s another
haven for booze not otherwise found
on this island republic, where the
specialty alcohol suppliers just aren’t
special enough. Ounce relies on a
steady stream of friends smuggling in
suitcases filled with speakeasy staples
like Pappy Van Winkle’s Family
Reserve 15 years, Rittenhouse Rye and
Old Overholt Rye.
“We just wanted to get an Old
Fashioned that wasn’t half seltzer
water,” says part-owner Song YeeHung. Bartender Aaron Feder, who has
a large stack of mixing awards under
his belt, delivers just that—along with
a master class on the origins and
genesis of many of his finely crafted
and cocktails .
Woo Taipei (No. 39, Lane 205,
Zhongxiao East Rd., Section 4; 886-2/
8771-9813; drinks for two NT$800), off
eclectic Chunghsiao East Road, serves
up sterling Pisco Sours and bespoke
cocktails over its 4-meter copper bar
while the city’s celebrity set peoplewatch in retro sofas and armchairs.
Book early, as spots are tight during
weekends in particular. ✚
Photographed by Alberto Buzzola

Radar
1
2

flights

3

The Flying
Butler

7
4

5

6

b e au t y

What’s in Your Baggie?
Family-run for more than a century, the Goring (thegoring.com), in
London, gained international fame when Kate Middleton prepped
there for her wedding; it later received a Royal Warrant—the palace’s
official endorsement. We asked the ever-dapper CEO Jeremy Goring
how he maintains his regal glow when traveling.
1 Molton Brown
Protecting Vitamin
Lipsaver Lip Balm
(moltonbrown.com).
“We stock their
products in our
rooms; the lip balm
is stellar, too.”
2 Lab Series
Multi-Action Face
Wash (labseries.com).
“After a day’s surfing,

The first ever Ubud Village Jazz
Festival is launching this summer
with more than 100 musicians slated
to play 20 performances over the
course of a jam-packed two days. The
event is drawing international
names such as famed Dutch jazz
pianist Peter Beets and American
saxman Joe Rosenberg, along with
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local musicians like singer Dian
Pratiwi. In an effort to support
budding talents, there will be a
special stage showcasing amateurs
and music students. Antida Music
Productions; Jl. Waribang 32
Denpasar, Bali; August 9 and 10;
ubudvillagejazzfestival.com; one-day
passes Rp360,000. —david ngo

If you are flying Lufthansa first
class, prepare to be doted on
hand and foot with the airline’s
new concierge service. Your
personal assistant will meet you
upon arrival at the first class
lounge and escort you though
security and passport control all
the way onto the plane where
you’ll be personally introduced to
the crew. And if you like,
someone will meet you upon
landing as well and usher you to
baggage claim. This has been
going on in airports across
Europe since the start of the
year, but just recently made its
way to Bangkok, Saigon, Hong
Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai,
Singapore and Tokyo Narita.
lufthansa.com.

Radar
rubric
t r av e l u n i f o r m

Rubin Singer
The hot designer is flying
high on newfound fame.
What do Beyoncé Knowles
and Joseph Stalin have in
common? Two words: Rubin
Singer. The elder and original
Rubin Singer—a Jewish tailor
who essentially sewed his
way out of a Soviet work
camp—became an official
designer for Russian
apparatchiks and social elites
under the patronage of the
Bolshevik dictator; his
namesake grandson is now
shooting to the top of the
fashion charts after creating
the reigning queen of pop’s
unforgettable 2013 Superbowl
halftime show costume.
Dressing divas is in his blood
(his father, Alik, designed for
the Bolshoi Ballet) and what
with planning the wardrobes
for Beyoncé’s current global
tour, concocting Avril
Lavigne’s wedding dress,
keeping stores stocked with
his frocks in Japan, and
launching his Autumn/
Winter fempowerment
“Valkyrie’s Dominion” line in
Thailand, Singer is
constantly jetting among
New York, Paris, Tokyo,
Moscow and Bangkok.
Though Beyoncé’s Superbowl
unitard was made of python,
iguana, leather and silk lace,
Singer’s personal style is
decidedly more low-key—but
no less custom-crafted.
—jeninne lee - st. john ✚
Ullate provit
m nimus daerum susant

“My partner, Carlos
Melia, designed this
Maybe Leather
jacket for himself. It
was handmade in
Argentina. And now I
wear it all the time.”

Panerai Luminor
Marina wristwatch.

“I always wear jeans
to travel. These
Ullate provit Diesels are low-rise
so they move around
m nimus daerum susant
and I can sleep in
them easily.”

Goyard briefcase.
“This is my sketch
bag. I carry all of my
notebooks and
pencils, my iPad,
business plans... and
lots of Women’s
Wear Dailys.”

CardÓn duffel.
“Carlos also had this
custom-made in
Argentina. I use it to
carry our essentials,
like laptops and
cashmere
sweatshirts for if it
gets cold.”
Ullate provit
m nimus daerum susant
“These Cole Haan
wingtips with Nike
Air in the soles are
comfortable as hell.”

Photographed by Shinsuke Matsukawa

t r av e l a n d l e
t irsauvreel+
as
l ieai s
. cuorm
e

j
muonnet h
2 01
2 01
3 2

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Radar

explore

Hyderabad, Five Ways

1. time travel See Hyderabad as it once was at the Golconda Fort (above). This 16th-century citadel, strategically located on a granite

hilltop, holds the remains of armories, arched mosques, reservoirs, gardens, marketplaces and the homes of royalty. Ruler Ibrahim Qutub Shah and his
son transformed the original 13th-century mud-and-brick structure into a grand fortress. Despite now being in ruins, it remains majestic. Take a
guide (or rent a portable GPS video tour) to hear tales of the thriving gem and diamond trade—the Hope and Kohinoor diamonds were discovered
there—and the unbelievable acoustics: clap beneath the domed entrance and it will be heard clearly at Bala Hissar, about a kilometer away on the
well-worn stone path. Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (except Mondays); entry fee Rs100.

2. take tea in style

Where better to sip high tea than
in a royal palace? The 119-yearold Falaknuma Palace is a
snapshot of historic kingly life.
Peacocks stroll through the
12.5-hectare property and horsedrawn carriages click along the
cobblestone paths. Inside,
colossal chandeliers dangle
above reception rooms and
towering family portraits frame
the staircases and hallways.
During teatime, scones are
topped with jam and cream, and
washed down with Nizami Indian
tea in china cups. Daily 3 p.m. to
5 p.m.; bookings must be made a
minimum of 24 hours in advance;
Rs1,500; Engine Bowli,
Falaknuma; 91-40/6629-8585;
tajhotels.com.

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3. get crafty

No modern machines are used
when creating Bidri handicrafts.
In fact, the process has barely
changed since it originated 500
years ago. A combination of zinc
and copper is heated in an earthy
kiln, shaped into the product,
inlayed with pure silver and then
oxidized through submersion in a
mixture of special Bidar soil that
hasn’t seen light in a century.
At the family-run shop Gulistan
Bidri Works, you can watch the
artisans at work and pick up
Bidriware statues, cufflinks,
jewelry boxes and other handicrafts at reasonable prices.
Gulistan Bidri Works, 22-1-1042
Kali Kabar, (opposite Honda
Showroom); 91-40/2452-3386.

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

4. eat like a king

You can join Hyderabad’s highsociety for a meal at membersonly club Chiraan Fort. The
regal establishment opens to the
public on Fridays and weekends
for a buffet Indian lunch. Claim
a seat in the small courtyard for
some midday sun and fill up on
dal, oily curries, spicy potatoes,
biryani and buttery naan. Chiraan
is modeled on 15th-century
Mughal architecture, with
scalloped arches connecting
open air corridors, high
ceilings with glass chandeliers,
and portraits of kings and historic
scenes adorning the walls. Friday
to Sunday for lunch; Police Lines
Begumpet, near U.S. consulate;
91-40/3984-1100; chiraanfort.
com; buffet Indian lunch Rs250.

5. temple hop

Having only opened in 1976, Birla
Temple may not have the history
of Golconda Fort, but what it lacks
in age it makes up in spirituality.
The sanctum is filled with statues
of Hindu gods, with the main deity
Lord Venkateswara (destroyer of
sins) at the center. Crowds of
devotees pray in front of the lord’s
statue, eagerly clutching at the
smoke from lit incense sticks the
holy men wave before them. From
the wide staircases to the
temple’s peaks, everything here is
made from white marble—2,000
tons of it. Open daily 7 a.m. to
12 p.m. & 2 p.m. to 9 p.m.; free
entry; Adarsh Nagar, Hyderabad;
birlatemple.com. ✚

Karryn Miller rounds up the best site-seeing for a taste of the city’s varied history.

Radar
experts

Views from the River

Whether on the east bank or west, there’s plenty to do along Bangkok’s River of Kings.

From opposite sides of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, two grande dames face each other. We’re referring to the
Mandarin Oriental and The Peninsula—though both also happen to have female general managers, who share
their favorite aspects of the east and west banks, respectively. The positioning of their employers hasn’t
monopolized our experts’ affections: Hyndman actually lives across the river from the Mandarin Oriental,
while Henke lives on the east side in trendy Sathorn. So they really do have the best of both banks covered.

river living
“The river is by far the fastest way to get around the
heaving metropolis that is Bangkok… but it’s also a great
way to kick back and watch local life pass you by.”
favorite east bank activities
1. “Shopping at Chatuchak, the world’s largest weekend
market. The bazaar, with more than 15,000 stalls and
shops, is an action packed slice of Bangkok.”
2. “Strolling in Lumpini Park. It is Bangkok’s green
getaway with lawns and lakes dotted with pagodas.”
3. “Browsing Oriental Plaza Place [66-88/266-0186]. This
luxury mall is directly next to the hotel and has a great
collection of jewelry, antique and tailor shops. We also
arrange VIP visits to the Lamont Boutique workshop.”

river living
“The Charoennakorn area has a vintage feel as guests can
travel into Bangkok’s past in an exploration of the
historic neighborhoods along the Chao Phraya River.”
favorite west bank activities
1. “Riding my bike along the river, passing many
magnificent temples and architectural buildings.”
2. “Exploring the local food markets while trying
authentic Thai food, which sets my mouth on fire.”
3. “Taking a long tail boat to the Artist House [Baan Sin
La Pin; kumnai.com], my favorite spot in Klongsan.
Tucked away in a neighborhood where you feel like a
local, you can enjoy home-cooked Thai food, watch the
local puppet dance, view the selection of art and more.”

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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

Photographed by Shinsuke Matsukawa

Radar

Hostel Environment

‘Chic Hostel’ is no longer an oxymoron or a cruel punchline.
Diana Hubbell checks out Southeast Asia’s new way to rough it easy.

Say the word “hostel” to a seasoned
traveler, and get ready to hear horror
stories of old college trips, complete
with rock-hard mattresses,
hygienically challenged roommates,
frigid showers and windowless cells…
all for a few bucks a night.
The times have changed though, and
the latest crop of hostels is a far cry
from those primitive establishments.
Catering to a slightly more discerning
set of flashpackers, these newer
addresses are spotless and feature
clever, thoughtful design touches.
Take for example Lub d (lubd.com;
shared dorms in Silom from Bt440,
Siam from Bt600), a stylishly modern
industrial hostel with two branches in
Bangkok, one in the nightlife district
of Silom and the other by the
megamalls of Siam. Both feature funky
raw cement with stenciled decorations,
as well as contemporary dorms and a
helpful staff.
Meanwhile, over in Singapore,
Matchbox (matchbox.sg; shared dorms
S$28), with its candy-colored interiors,
and amenities that include a pillow
menu, offers one of the hippest ways to
see the Lion City on a budget.
Sanlitun Youth Hostel’s (sanlitun.
hostel.com; shared dorms US$12) dorms
are immaculate, but their spacious
doubles with flatscreen TVs verge on
hotel rooms. Add that to a central
location and surprisingly good
cappuccinos, and you have a perfect
way to check out Beijing.
Finally, The Mad Monkey Hostel
(phnompenhhostels.com; shared dorms
from US$7) in Phnom Penh has a
laid-back vibe with a side of social
consciousness: Employees are often
sourced through NGOs, and are
guaranteed uncommonly high wages,
healthcare and hospitality training. ✚
Clockwise from top:
Matchbox’s dollhouse
exterior; Matchbox’s
loft makes for a laidback hang out; the
industrial interior
of Lub d Silom.

Reel Life
Can a nitpicky hotel
inspector ever find
fulfillment? That’s the
question of Viaggio Sola
(“I Travel Alone”), the new
film by Italian director
Maria Sole Tognazzi. She
offers T+L a sneak preview.

d a n i l o s c a r p at i

Can you summarize the
details of the plot?

“A Leading Hotels of the
World (lhw.com) inspector,
played by Margherita Buy,
arrives incognito at
glamorous resorts: the Puli
Hotel & Spa, in Shanghai;
Switzerland’s Gstaad
Palace; the Fonteverde
Tuscan Resort & Spa, in
Italy.”

What did you learn about
that profession?

“They work like characters
on CSI: hunting for dirt
with white gloves, testing
the temperature of roomservice coffee, ensuring that
the time is synced on TV
and radio. Only at the end
of the journey can they
reveal their true identity.”
Do you have any travel
essentials? “My Rolex, set

InterContinental
Asiana Saigon Sip and
sup here all day with pho
made to order, a teeming
raw bar, Sunday roast, a
chocolate fountain... and
free-flow beer, wine,
spirits and Veuve Cliquot.
ihg.com; VND1.3 million
per person.

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

The Peninsula Hong
Kong Fare at this opulent
spread ranges from
classics like eggs
Benedict to more
over-the-top offerings like
black cod with Parmesan,
served with a side of
bubbly. peninsula.com;
HK$428 per person.

The Sukhothai
Bangkok With oysters
from five countries, 20
types of cheeses and
choice eats like gin-andtonic smoked salmon and
braised beef cheeks, it’s
hard to know where to
start. sukhothai.com;
Bt2,700 per person.

Mandarin Oriental
Singapore The hotel has
three brunches, but the
international option has
everything from a foie
gras station to sashimi.
mandarinoriental.com;
S$108 per person.
— diana hubbell and
brooke porter

Photographed by Sivan Askayo

Radar
airports

Liquid Layovers

Long lines, surly officials,
security checks—time in the
airport is rarely the
highlight of a trip. So the
secret to making the most
out of a bad situation? Hunt
down the airport bar. We’re
not talking neon-lit
countertops where you’re
resigned to sucking back
overpriced room
temperature swill; these
days many international
gateways have real cocktail
bars, with creative menus
and cozy ambience. Here, a
few watering holes with
drinks so divine you’ll be
hoping for flight delays.
In November, the Peak
Lookout Airport

(hongkongairport.com;
drinks for two HK$160)
opened at Hong Kong
International Airport,
capturing some of the feel of
the original location on
Victoria Peak, high above
the island and harbor. Here,
New Zealand Sauvignon
Blanc and Australian Shiraz
are served by the glass or
bottle while martinis are
shaken with top-shelf
liquors like Bombay
Sapphire and Tanqueray.
For a sweeter glass, try the
Melon Lily cocktail with
Midori liqueur, orange juice
and a splash of dry
champagne. At Terminal 1 in
Chek Lap Kok, Caviar
House & Prunier

(caviarhouse-prunier.com/
hong-kong-bars; drinks for
two HK$310) pairs sturgeon
roe with smooth Beluga
vodka. If you have an
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appetite for ale, try the Balik
Beer poured here, a strong
brew aged on oak to produce
a sherry-like taste.
Beer is also a popular
choice at the FCC Bar
(cambodia-airports.com;
drinks for two US$11) inside
Phnom Penh’s international
airport. But in Cambodia it’s
the golden-hued, somewhat
sweet and light-bodied
Angkor Draft that tends to
keep tourists and business
travelers company at the
bar. It’s a fairly onedimensional lager created
for a hot climate and, as

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

such, is best ice cold. A more
full-flavored option is
Angkor Extra Stout, a darker
varietal with roasted flavors
and chocolatey aromas.
Further north, at Seoul’s
Incheon airport, an entirely
different fermented
beverage appears on the
menu at Punggyeongmaru
(airport.kr/eng; drinks for
two W8,000), a quiet,
understated restaurant
serving traditional Korean
fare like bibimbap and spicy
beef soup. And while
well-traveled epicureans
might be familiar with soju,

a spirit commonly distilled
from rice or sweet potatoes,
makgeolli, sometimes
referred to as Korean rice
wine, isn’t typically found
beyond the country’s
borders. Try the slightly
tangy intoxicant on its own
or mixed with juice, and pair
it with a spicy snack; its
creaminess and relatively
low level of alcohol tend to
balance fiery foods.
It you’re flying business
class through Samui
Airport (samuiairport
online.com), drinks are free
at Bangkok Airways’ Blue
Ribbon Club Lounge. If you
are flying economy, you can
find a variety of lagers at the
airport’s Irish pub. The
outdoor departure lounge
(left) feels like a tropical
gazebo, so kick back with a
frosty drink and enjoy the
tropical breeze. Just don’t
miss your boarding
announcement.
To truly unwind during a
layover, few places beat
Poolside Bar (harilela
hospitality.com/services_
pool.html; drinks for two
S$37) at Changi Airport in
Singapore. Even if you don’t
want to pay the S$13.91 fee to
take a dip in the rooftop
pool, the setting is a relaxing
place to enjoy a drink. Wine,
bourbon and beer are all
available at this oasis
located in Terminal 1, but a
refreshing Singapore Sling
seems the fitting choice.
Order one and remember
that, on vacation, even an
airport can be fun. ✚

Chef Marco Gubbiotti is bringing ancient Umbrian recipes
and contemporary cooking techniques to Hong Kong
at his newest restaurant, Il Milione.
A native of Umbria, Chef
Marco Gubbiotti is
lighting up a modern
menu with his
hometown flavors at
recently opened Il
Milione Bar &
Ristorante Italiano in

Central Hong Kong. As
the official culinary
consultant for the
Umbria Region
Administration,
Gubbiotti is arguably the
global authority on rich
central Italian tastes, so

it’s no surprise that the Il
Milione menu dazzles
with dishes like
passatelli pasta, made
with breadcrumbs and
Sorrento lemon, served
with lobster in a
lobster-tail broth with
samphire. “In Umbria,
we nourish the earth,
and the earth nourishes
us with its harvest. We
take the produce and,
with minimal
intervention, create
dishes that unlock the

Calling all aspiring flatfoots and gumshoes—
the new interactive CSI exhibit at Sheraton
Macao Hotel challenges visitors to solve
mysteries based on clues planted on the
staged crime scene. With help from
investigators from the American TV show CSI:
Crime Scene Investigation, and their forensic
science counterparts, guests will have to
formulate a theory, support their conclusions
based on scientific evidence and get to the
bottom of a real stumper. There are three
crime-scene scenarios for visitors to choose
from and each will require serious sleuthing to
CSI-Microscope
uncover the truth. Using real-life forensic and
xx xx xxxxxx
scientific equipment, visitors can test their
skills at DNA analysis, toxicology, firearm
identification, latent prints and blood spatter
analysis to crack this case wide open. CSI:
The Experience—Macao, co-presented by
Sands Cotai Central and Sheraton Macao
Hotel; daily 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. through June 15;
cotaiticketing.com; HK$120 for one scenario.

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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

Do you know what an affineur
is? If not, how could you call
yourself a true foodie? Asia’s
love of anything to do with
food comes through loud and
clear this month at the AsiaPacific Food and Wine
Festival (June 13-16; ritzcarlton.

com) at Hong Kong’s RitzCarlton. Among the chefs at the
epicurean event is Ivan Li
(pictured), whose Imperial
Cuisine is rooted in the Qing
dynasty. There will also be
celebrated chocolatiers, a
master of wine and several
chefs from Italy and France.
Oh, affineur? That’s a cheese
master, in case you were
wondering. If you miss out on
this event, the World Gourmet
Festival (September 2-8, 2013;
fourseasons.com) takes place at
the Four Seasons Bangkok in
September, this year featuring
chefs from Portugal, France
and Belgium among others.
And if you’re already dreaming
of what culinary wonders are
on next year’s calendar, pencil
in the World Gourmet
Summit (April 2014;
worldgourmetsummit.com),
which will be held in Singapore
next April.

Yes, the rainy season has descended, which has benefits and
drawbacks. On the one hand, hotel prices often drop, the jungles
and forests flourish, and crowds thin out; on the other hand, it
rains a lot. But there are still wonderful vacations to be had, even
if there’s a downpour for an hour or two every day. So don’t get me
wrong, I’m all for rainy season retreats. But I can’t help but laugh
at how you’ve begun marketing the soggier months of the year. I
don’t mind calling it the “green season” but when you trot out the
entire jewelry store in specials touting the “emerald season” and
“jade holidays,” or “aqua celebrations” and “lush month
discounts”—I can’t decide whether to roll my eyes or hat-tip your
euphemistic ingenuity. A suggestion: just let your lowered rates do
the work of attracting visitors. Smart tourists know when they’re
traveling in the rainy season, so there’s no point green-washing it.

Radar
opinion

Flying Solo

You can learn a lot about yourself
while on the road—especially when
you’re not being kept awake by your
travel buddy’s snoring or battling with
him about who gets to sit in the
window seat. Whether you want to
retreat to a remote corner of the world
for some quiet time or meet new people
in a foreign culture, it’s okay to fall off
the grid for a few days and not invite a
single person to join you.
Traveling on your own can be a true
indulgence. But you need to be in the
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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

right headspace for it. If you’re
convinced that you’ll be lonely, then
there will be no escaping the solitude.
Put aside your fears and get excited
about being able to call all the shots on
your vacation—from having breakfast
in bed to skipping that very important
museum because you would rather fit
in a two-hour massage.
As the sole architect of your
itinerary, you’ll have more fun if you
do your research. A little familiarity
with your destination will go a long

way. This may sound obvious, but
when you’re in a country where you
can’t speak or decipher the language,
reading a map may be a challenge. Plan
out in advance some walking routes to
points of interest or study the public
transportation system so that you can
hit the ground running upon arrival.
And even though you’re planning this
trip to take a break from everyone for a
bit, there may be moments when you
miss the sound of familiar voices, so
figure out how you’re going to phone ➔

Finding the perfect travel companion can be as easy as looking in the
mirror. Cristina M. De Oliveira helps you plan an adventure-for-one.

home. Buying Skype credits can be a
challenge in some places, such as
Vietnam. Make sure you’re loaded up
before you take off, or check with your
service provider about using your cell
phone overseas.
If you’re afraid of getting bored,
then map out what you want to achieve
on your trip so that each day has an
underlying mission. Always wanted to
learn how to dive? Ready to try
standing up on a surfboard? Been

52

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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

putting off reading Dostoyevsky? You
can spend your days ticking lingering
items off of your to-do list.
A shortcut to infusing your journey
with purpose is to a find a local cause
you believe in and try to work some
volunteer days into your trip. The
experience can be rewarding and eyeopening, especially during a voyage of
self-discovery. Hands Up Holidays
(handsupholidays.com) can set you up
with teaching gigs in Nepal (from

US$5,900 for 21 days, including a trek to
Everest Base Camp) or conservation
work in India’s Sundarbans Delta
(from US$1,800 for 11 days). Plus, the
site allows you to search for projects
that are specifically suited to the
needs of a solo traveler.
While planning your own activities
may sound like fun, eating alone can
be daunting for even the most
independent traveler. But remember:
This could be the perfect time to treat
yourself to that meal of a lifetime. Load
up your tablet with good reads and
settle into your reservation for one.
After all, there won’t be anybody else
to complain about the pricey bill or
judge you for eating two desserts. If
you’re interested in a more low-key
affair, sidling up to a bar is a good way
to pass the time. You may encounter
other like-minded of us—or strike up a
conversation with the bartender, who
can probably pass along some great
local tips or at least have some good
stories to tell.
In the spirit of diving into the local
scene, forgo a traditional hotel and
rent an apartment through Airbnb
(airbnb.com) or Flipkey (flipkey.com).
On these sites you can book
everything from a private studio to an
entire house—or a room in a shared
house if you are looking to make
friends. I’ve had spectacular hosts who
leave out guidebooks, maps and have
even passed along their number in case
I have any problems. In a strange way,
this makes you feel like you at least
know one person in town in case
anything goes wrong. For the costconscious, Couchsurfing
(couchsurfing.org) will put you in
touch with benevolent hosts who take
in visitors free of charge and may even
give you a tour of their city.
From meeting new people to getting
in tune with yourself and your
instincts, being the master of your
itinerary is an exciting way to see the
world. If I were forced to come up with
a downside to traveling alone, it would
have to be that you won’t have anybody
else to take pictures of you. Perhaps
“perfect the self-portrait” is the ideal
task for day one of your adventure. ✚

A: Good question. And one
you should ask of your hotel,
too. Resort fees, which can add
a full 30 percent onto a hotel
bill, may cover everything from
wireless Internet and gym
access to faxing and use of a
notary (huh?)—services and
amenities that you may have
no interest in using. Yet
travelers who kick and scream
Illustrated by Ben Wiseman

about baggage fees are often
surprisingly mute when it
comes to these hotel charges.
The difference? In the case
of baggage, you’re at least
paying for a service that you
intend to use.
When they were first
introduced in the late 1990’s,
according to Bjorn Hanson,
dean of the Tisch Center for

by the numbers

30
percent

The markup on a
US$84 room at the
Red Rock Casino,
Resort & Spa, in Las
Vegas, due to the
US$24.99 resort fee

60

By Amy Farley

Hospitality, Tourism and
Sports Management at New
York University, resort fees
applied to the extensive
facilities of actual resorts:
tennis courts, pools, beach
clubs, etc. Though not all guests
used these services, you could
still argue that maintaining
these facilities merited an
additional charge. And anyway,
many resorts were lenient,
waiving the fees for guests
when they did not apply.
But about a decade ago,
resort fees jumped the shark
and began appearing at more
properties to cover such
services as daily newspaper
delivery, printing of boarding
passes and even nightly
turndown. Hanson estimates
that hotels took in at least
US$1.95 billion in ancillary
revenue in 2012 (up from US$1.2
billion in 2000). Though resort
fees account for less than half
of that revenue, they are still a
boon for hotels.
These fees are particularly
egregious in some destinations:
Las Vegas, foremost among
them. We recently polled
luxury hotels on the Strip and
found that the extra charges
average US$25 a night. Even
hotels that once bucked the
trend and made not charging
resort fees a point of
distinction (and marketing
campaigns) are now adding
them. In the past few months,
the Cosmopolitan hotel and
all nine Caesars Entertainment
properties quietly adopted
mandatory resort charges.
“Hotel executives like resort
fees because they allow them to
keep their room rates low,” ➔

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j u n e 2 01 3

55

Trip Doctor
explains Henry Harteveldt,
a travel industry analyst
with the New York–based
consultancy Hudson
Crossing. “But these charges
need to be viewed for what
they are: an indirect rate
hike.” He says hotels will
keep adding resort fees
unless customers start
“responding with their
wallets” and walking away.
That’s easier said than
done when even spotting
these charges in advance
can be difficult. At Marina
Bay Sands in Singapore the
S$29.99 resort fee is
optional, but you need to opt
out at the start of your stay
or the cost will be
automatically added to your
bill upon check-out. And
you have to be careful to
read the fine print to find
the fee.
In November, the U.S.
Federal Trade Commission
(FTC) sent warnings to 22
hotels for not properly
disclosing mandatory resort
fees on their websites and
“misrepresenting the price
that consumers can expect
to pay for their hotel rooms.”

But the problem persists.
In a recent test of Vegas’s
Hard Rock Hotel & Casino
website, I found that the
property did not alert me to
the US$25 fee (covering
Internet, domestic longdistance calls, gym access,
boarding-pass printing and
notary service) until I was
ready to book, and even then
didn’t include it in the
reservation total. Similarly,
the big online travel
agencies (Kayak, Expedia,
Travelocity) didn’t include
the fee in their total room
rates. They simply noted
that I would have to pay
US$25 a day to the property.
Harteveldt says that
if hotels don’t embrace a
clear and standardized
practice for disclosure, the
FTC may have to step in
with regulation, much like
the U.S. Department of
Transportation did last year
when it forced airlines to
disclose all additional fees.
The short answer to your
question is: Yes, you likely
do have to pay the fee. But if
you’re not using the
services, do it under protest.

Q: Why is it getting harder to
redeem my hotel points?
A: The salad days for points holders may be ending. In

general, demand for rooms is rising, and with it rates,
according to Brian Kelly, founder of thepointsguy.com. That
means hotels no longer have to be quite so accommodating to
loyalists. In the past few months, Kelly notes, both Marriott
and Hilton adjusted their loyalty programs so that it takes
more points to book many of their most desirable properties.
Starwood, meanwhile, upped the amount of money you need
to spend for its SPG Cash & Points redemptions. Hotel points
haven’t gone off a cliff the way airline miles did about five
years ago, but they’re definitely losing value. So keep racking
them up. You’re going to need more to get what you want.

what ’s your
problem?
I accidentally
damaged my
hotel room!

Do...

Assess the
mess. One that
only requires
cleanup costs
less than one
that calls for
replacing broken
furniture and
fixtures.

Fess up. The
hotel will find out
regardless—and
you’ll want to
be there to plead
your case.

Don’t...

Fret if the
damage is
small and
unintentional.
Hotels will
often let you go
without penalty.

Assume you
can walk away
scot-free. If the
damage is major,
you could be
responsible for
repairs and lost
revenue.

Trip Doctor

pl anning

Q: I want to take a learning vacation, but the
options are bewildering. Where do I start?

i l l u s t r at i o n b y w a s i n e e c h a n ta k o r n

Find the trip that’s right for you by letting your passions guide you and then choosing
the company to match. Here, five ideas to get you started. By Diana Hubbell
CULINARY
A Gastronome’s
Vietnam, Trufflepig
This bespoke tour
company offers foodie
sojourns that go beneath
the surface of a cuisine.
An itinerary through
Vietnam might include
cooking classes in Hoi An
and Hanoi; sampling
everything from pho to
water beetle; and noshing
at both street-side gems
and haute restaurants like
Maison 1888 in Danang.
1-416/628-1272; trufflepig.
com; 11 days from
US$8,000 per person.

WILDLIFE
Bali & Komodo
Dragons, Kensington
Tours
See the world’s largest
living lizards with this
journey to the island of
Flores and Komodo
National Park. Guides
and rangers will help you
get a glimpse of the rare
and deadly Komodo
dragons from a safe
vantage point. After your
walk on the wild side,
relax with a sunset dinner
cruise. kensingtontours.
com; eight days from
US$2,675 per person.

PHOTOGRAPHY
The Silk Road Through
Your Lens, Wild China
Capture the sights of the
Silk Road with this trip
through Xinjiang, China’s
culturally distinct
northwestern province.
Snap shots of the
Taklamakan desert,
Karakul Lake and local
Uighur markets, all with
the expert guidance of the
highly experienced
British photographer
Sean Gallagher.
86-10/6465-6602;
wildchina.com; nine days
from US$2,980 per person.

Art and
Architecture
Burma: Golden
Temples and Pagodas,
Cox & Kings
One of the outfitter’s
Royal Academy art tours,
this journey through
Rangoon, Mandalay and
Bagan features lectures
by guests such as the
former director general of
the Ministry of Culture,
as well as the expertise of
author Miranda
Bruce-Mitford. 44-84/
5868-2597; coxandkings.
co.uk; 14 days from £3,845
per person.

Religion
And Culture
Rejuvenating
Himalayas, Learning
Journeys
This trip through
northern India teaches
the philosophy behind
yoga and meditation
through lectures and
practice. Stops include
Rishikesh and Haridwar,
where wellness is central
to spiritual life, as well as
the luxe Ananda resort in
the Himalayas. 855/7847687; learning journeys.
com; 12 days from
US$3,550 per person.

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57

Trip Doctor

by Mimi Lombardo

PACKING

Q: We’re going scuba diving
in Indonesia, and I’m looking
for a watch that works as
well underwater as it does
on land. Any tips?

Q: I’m so tired of my
swimsuit taking eons to
dry. Help!
—kay ekblad,
A: Here’s the solution: this onepiece from Montreal-based
2 Lolë. The paneled “Maui”
maillot is made of chlorineresistant, quick-drying Swim
Tech fabric with an übercomfortable four-way stretch.
Need something to throw on
post-dip? The breathable and
anti-wrinkle fabric of Eco
Swim by Aqua Green
Shirred Side Dress Cover
Up is knitted out of (yes) coffee
grounds, making it sustainable
by the sea.
Q: With so many
sunscreens on the
market, I’m overwhelmed.
Have a favorite?
—janet bakes,
A: We took an informal poll,
and the cheekily named
Supergoop! SPF 50
Antioxidant-Infused
Sunscreen Mist is a
T+L editor pick. It’s infused
with vitamin C (touted by
dermatologists as a damage
preventer), plus it’s parabenand fragrance-free, hence
easy on your skin. Soleil
Organique makes similar
mists in varying SPF’s, with a
green-tea scent. For daily use
on the face, we prefer
lightweight and long-lasting
Kiehl’s Super Fluid UV

58

j u n e 2 01 3

Defense SPF 50+ and
emollient-rich La Prairie
Sun Protection Emulsion
Face SPF 30. Hailing from
Norway, 3 Restørsea
Rejuvenating Day Lotion
SPF 30 contains anti-aging
enzymes and moisturizing
algae, though it may be worth
the splurge for its pretty
packaging alone.
Q: I’m heading to
Nantucket’s Wauwinet
Resort in July. Any
New England summer
wardrobe tips?
—jake collistro, santa
monica, calif.
A: The Wauwinet is a casual
classic; you won’t feel out of
place in a few East Coast
mainstays. A preppy nylon
windbreaker from 4 Gant
Rugger and wrinkle-free
seersucker 5 Mac pants are
fantastic options in the
summer months, when
afternoon temperatures hover
around 23 degrees but nights
are cool. For accessories, we
love these lightweight yet
sturdy 6 Hush Puppies
slip-ons —perfect for walking
Great Point beach—and Steve
McQueen–worthy 7 folding
Ray-Ban aviators.

A: Just ask the U.S. Navy SEALs, who tested and
approved elements of the 1 Tag Heuer Limited Edition
Oracle Team USA Aquaracer 500M. It’s the latest in
sporting chronographs: water-resistant to 500 meters
with rhodium-plated hands and a scratch-resistant
crystal—and cool-looking, to boot.

Booking.com
Tonight
(iOS) With the most
properties, this Priceline and
Booking.com team effort
offers the best comparison
shopping. Case in point: we
found 717 hotels in Bangkok
on a recent search, varying
from Best Westerns to the
Sofitel with “Secret Deals”
that drop the standard rate
by up to 60 percent. Deals
become available at
midnight—considerably
earlier than most apps—but
they’re valid for one- and
two-night stays only.
checkintonight
(iOS) Offering bookings one
day in advance for rooms
across Southeast Asia, this is
the app of choice for last
minute deals in the region.

Illustrated by Ben Wiseman

Discounts up to 70 percent
are available and travelers
can opt-in for daily updates
on the best hotel rates.
Hotel Deals by
LastMinute.com
(iOS) This Travelocityowned app lets you book a
week before checking in. The
discounts are impressive (up
to 55 percent), especially for
“Top Secret Hotels”­—you
find out the name after you
pay. The app lets you pay by
scanning your credit card.
Hotel quickly
(Android, iOS) Launched
this March in Thailand,
Hong Kong, Singapore,
Indonesia, Taiwan and
Malaysia, this app has more
than 200 hotels to choose
from, offering deeply

discounted deals for unsold
inventory. Bookings can be
made any time after noon.
Jetsetter
(Android, iOS) With a clean
interface and easy search
functionality, Jetsetter
displays a well-curated list of
available rooms at
discounted prices. You can
book same-night
accommodations or choose
from recommended
itineraries at special rates.
Hot Hotels
(Android, iOS) With this
Europe-centered app, a
portion of the proceeds buys
carbon credits that offset
each user’s stay. Its
inventory is strongest on the
Iberian peninsula, but it also
dabbles in South America.

Deals

Malaysia

RM933
per night

Plunge Pool Villa at
Bunga Raya Island
Resort & Spa.

Island
MALAYSIA

Culture

What Mid-Year Madness at
Bunga Raya Island Resort & Spa
(bungarayaresort.com). Details
Three nights in a Superior villa.
Highlights A 50 percent
discount on the second and third
nights, admission to the Marine
Ecology Research Centre and use
of all non-motorized water
sports equipment, as well as
complimentary daily breakfast.
Cost From RM2,800 (RM933 per
night), double, through June 30.
Savings 33 percent.

60

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THAILAND

What Opening Offer at Regent
Phuket Cape Panwa (regenthotels.
com). Details Three nights in a
Pavilion. Highlights Daily
breakfast for two at the
Restaurant, complimentary Wi-Fi
and access to resort facilities
including Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Club. Cost
Bt5,200 per night, double,
through October 31. Savings 35
percent.

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

INDONESIA

What A Taste of Bali at Centra
Taum Seminyak (centarahotels
andresorts.com). Details Five
nights in a Deluxe Space.
Highlights A full-day excursion
for two that includes a visit to
the Royal Temple of Mengwi, a
sunset tour to Tanah Lot and a
Kecak dance performance. Also:
a 60-minute Balinese massage
for two, daily breakfast, roundtrip
transfers. Cost From US$995
(US$199 per night), double, to
October 31. Savings 53 percent.

VIETNAM

What Savoir Faire from Bai Tram
Hideaway (bai-tram.com).
Details Three nights in a
one-bedroom villa. Highlights A
cruise to a local lobster farm on
a half-day guided excursion and
a seafood dinner at 19th-century
ruins. Cost US$995 (US$332
per night), double, through July
30. Savings 30 percent.

What Executive Traveller
package at The Excelsior, Hong
Kong (mandarinoriental.com/
excelsior). Details Two nights in
an Executive suite. Highlights
Complimentary room upgrade,
daily breakfast, afternoon tea,
snacks and cocktails in the
Executive Lounge; 20 percent
discount on all spa treatments
and dining; three-hour stay at
the Plaza Premium Lounge at
the Hong Kong International
Airport for two with access to
shower facilities, internet access,
hot meals and non-alcoholic
beverages. Cost From HK$2,380,
double, through December 31.
Savings 28 percent.

THAILAND

What Stay Three Nights at
The Siam (thesiamhotel.com).
Details Three nights in a suite.
Highlights Butler service,
private boat transfer between
the hotel and Sathorn pier and
complimentary daily breakfast in
the Deco Bar & Bistro. Cost From
Bt16,300 (Bt5,433 per night),
double, through October 31.
Savings 30 percent.

VIETNAM

What Special Opening Rates at
Capri by Fraser, Ho Chi Minh City
(capribyfraser.com). Details A stay
in a Studio Superior. Highlights
Complimentary welcome amenities
and daily breakfast. Cost From
US$75, double, through June 30.
Savings Up to 32 percent.

Getaway
CHINA

What Weekend Getaway at
the Ritz-Carlton, Shenzhen
(ritzcarlton.com). Details A stay
in a Deluxe room. Highlights
Automatic upgrade to a Premier
room, if available, and choice of
either complimentary breakfast
for two and a complimentary
60-minute spa treatment for
one, or a Sunday Glitz buffet
brunch with free-flow sparkling
wine for two. Cost From
RMB1,988, double, through June
30. Savings 50 percent.

MALAYSIA

What Seasonal Savings by
SLH at Pangkor Laut Resort
(pangkorluatresort.com). Details
Two nights in a Spa villa.
Highlights Daily breakfast
and one complimentary picnic
basket for two per stay. Cost
From US$480 (US$240 per
night), double, through June 30.
Savings 10 percent.

THAILAND

What River Escape at The
Peninsula Bangkok (peninsula.
com). Details A stay in a Deluxe
room. Highlights Choice of
either one complimentary
50-minute aromatherapy
massage for two at The Peninsula
Spa or a buffet dinner at River
Cafe and Terrace for two per stay,
in addition to a daily
complimentary international
breakfast buffet for two. Cost
From Bt6,900, double, through
October 31. Savings 57 percent.

Deluxe suite at
The Excelsior.

June 2013

In This Issue

courtesy of como hotels and resorts

64 Saigon/Hanoi
74 Koh Phayam,
Thailand
80 Zambia
90 It List

Outside Uma by Como,
Punakha, in Bhutan, part
of the IT List, page 90.

My family hails from the former imperial
capital of Hue (my last name means royal), a city
that lies right in the center of this elongated
country. Which is all just to say, I would seem to
be an impartial judge in this north-south divide.

Southerners call Hanoians snobs who

f Americans want to make peace, Ho Chi Minh
said in 1966, “we shall make peace and invite them
to tea afterwards.” Judging by the relations
between Vietnam and the U.S.—as well as the lack
of reservations with which the Vietnamese
embrace most foreigners—Uncle Ho’s sentiment
has been borne out.
Friends are one thing, though. Family another.
As in any family, rivalry simmers beneath the
surface in Vietnam—and manifests itself in
strange ways. When Saigon’s population grew
larger than Hanoi’s, the capital just
annexed more land to grow its own
numbers. Politically, Vietnam is one big, communist clan. Socially, a
quiet battle still rages on across the 17th parallel.
In one corner: the conservative capital, where Hanoians see
themselves as elegant, shrewd with money and close-knit.
Northerners have post-war bragging rights, a political system that’s
triumphed throughout the land, and a glorious leader exalted in every
gilded bust and red-and-gold street banner—as well as the official
name of their southern rival city.
But not all the spoils went to the victor. In the other corner is
Saigon, a more-liberal bastion that welcomes newcomers.
Southerners aren’t exactly nursing an inferiority complex. They’re
driving the economy.
Saigonese wake up early and stay out late. Rush hour was once only
a weekday concern. Now, Saturday and Sunday evenings offer no
respite as people hit the town. Young Vietnamese may not have
refrigerators or hot water in their shared rentals, but they can
decorate their motorbikes and color their hair in this fashionconscious city—which has also emerged as the nation’s undisputed
LGBT capital. Skyscrapers are going up at a vertiginous rate; the
Bitexco Financial Tower, the most iconic building downtown, with an
optimistic helipad disk jutting out near the top, didn’t exist when I
first returned to Vietnam in 2008.
Travelers seeking out remnants of French empire, though, would
do better to visit Hanoi, the cultural and conceptual heart of the
country with no shortage of lakes and ponds, artists and
philosophers. Under colonial rulers, “Hanoi was to be a stately,
orderly, and controlled urban space,” historian Michael Vann writes.
Besides wide boulevards and graceful villas—best exemplified by the
celebrated grande dame, the Sofitel Legend Metropole—the sense of
order was passed onto communist leaders. Unlike in Saigon, officials
in the capital still blare out public service announcements on
speakers throughout the city. Perhaps counterintuitively, Hanoi also
has a creative tradition stretching back a millennium, which
manifests today in funky, concept cafes and shocking, censorshipflaunting artists like Dao Anh Khanh.
66

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t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

look down on anyone not born in their city. Any
truth to this is easily explained by migration
patterns. Northerners retained much of their
Han heritage, derived from the neighboring
Chinese. They were traditionally a more closed
society. Southerners, on the other hand, picked
up Cham and Khmer influences—and
bloodlines—as Vietnam pushed into those
ancient kingdoms. Historically the French and
the Americans had far more interaction with
southerners than northerners, contributing to a
legacy in Saigon of accepting strangers. In
Hanoi, outsiders stand out no matter how long
they’ve lived in their adopted home.
Foreigners of the past promoted another
convention that southerners received well:
economic liberalization. Traders from China
sailed to the south during its 1,000-year
occupation of the Vietnamese territory and
began exporting things back home, says Nguyen
Thi Anh Nguyet, a history professor in Saigon,
which is why “when the French and Americans
came, it was easy to accept capitalism.” With all
the different peoples and goods passing through
the Mekong Delta, southern Vietnamese were
already amenable to the free market, whereas in
the north, traditionally, “people made enough to
give to the government and to feed themselves,”
Nguyet says.
The southern economic bustle paused in 1975,
but after devastating food shortages and ration
lines, northerners eventually caught on. In the
1980’s, China had Deng Xiaoping and Vietnam had
its Doi Moi market reforms. A retired journalist
who worked for AP’s Saigon bureau in the 1960’s
and 1970’s recently told me southerners must be
chuckling to themselves now, despite their
military defeat: “In a perverse way, they won.”
But the old system left another stamp on
Hanoi. It retains a reputation of languid
bureaucracy, while Saigon is known for its
innovation and entrepreneurship. In terms of
foreigners, NGOs go north, corporations go
south. A friend from Hanoi, who took a job at a
western consulate in Saigon, says he believes
that back in the capital, state salaries and
reliable hours offer no incentive to experiment
or even exert much energy. It extends from the
public sector to everyday businesses. As a
tourist, you’ll notice it most in customer service:
Sales people in the south will attend to you to the

Clockwise from top left: Huong
Khan, a student, strolls the
pavilion of downtown Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
newest mall, Vincom Center 2;
nem with all the fixings in Hanoi;
in Hanoiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old Quarter; aerobics
near Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi;
Graham Greene lived in the
1880-built Hotel Continental
Saigon while writing The Quiet
American, and it was a favorite
of foreign correspondents
during the war era; guerilla
marketing at the Bitexco Tower,
Saigon; canh chua (sour soup)
at Cuch Gach Quan in Saigon;
though there are 35 million
motorbikes in Vietnam, some,
like this Hanoian, still pedal.

Hanoi is less congested,
more peaceful and
less polluted. There’s
a pervading sense of
history, beauty and calm
point of badgering. In the north, the good news is that they leave
you alone. The bad news is also that they leave you alone.
Some attribute this less to indifference than to a culture of
rudeness (Saigonese friends warned me before my first visit to Hanoi
that everyone would try to cheat me, though I found the northerners
decidedly less nefarious). While I was helping an acquaintance pick
out clothes in Hanoi as a gift for his girlfriend back in Saigon, he
asked a sales girl for help and got a tepid response. “See?” he said.
“This is why I hate northerners.” If he had spoken to her in English
like a westerner instead of in the southern dialect, he says she would
have reacted with better manners.

One Hanoi dweller, a French graphic designer named

Steven Moreau, suggested to me that southerners’ perception of
bigotry actually makes them bigger perpetuators of the north-south
spat. But it is undeniable that the language really does divide people.
Northerners speak giong Bac and southerners speak giong Nam.
Unsurprisingly, the northern dialect dominates official decrees and
discourse, but also the evening news, lessons in proper Vietnamese,
translations, dubbings and subtitles. Even when I go out to karaoke
with southerners, they change their accents for a higher score.
The nuances matter particularly to Hanoians who, like certain
George Bernard Shaw characters, write off outsiders who speak with
a lesser accent. A woman I met in Hanoi told me her parents can’t help
it—they just can’t endure hearing giong Nam.
Central Vietnamese have their own regionalisms, too, which blend
traits of giong Bac and giong Nam. As someone who speaks giong Hue,
I miss a lot from both poles of the country. No matter. I confess a bias
in saying that I don’t like either dominant dialect. Giong Bac is
arrogantly austere, and giong Nam is as pleasant to listen to as Eliza
Doolittle. By contrast, giong Hue is unpretentious, simple and easy on
the ears.
Cuisine likewise has regional idioms, though I would stress that
this is one category in which just about all of Vietnam excels equally.
Flavors aren’t as strong in the north, southerners love their sugar, and
I prefer the spice and salt of central dishes. After growing up on the
home-cooking of a Hue mother, I blanket everything in pepper. I’ve
found that locals in Hanoi can’t take the mildest of seasonings.
But that doesn’t diminish the quality of food in the capital, the
birthplace of pho (beef or chicken noodle soup), cha ca (fish patties)
and bun oc (noodles with snails), among other delights. Tantalizing
takes on most dishes are widely available in both cities, though I

actually prefer pho in California; for some
reason, chefs in Vietnam overcook these noodles
every time. Some of my favorite southern entrees
are canh chua (a sour tomato-and-pineapple
soup), bun thit nuong (grilled pork with noodles)
and all manner of hotpots. Thanks to Hue we
have banh xeo (shrimp-pork crêpes), which go
well with rice paper, a great wrap for everything
from spring rolls to fish to bo la lot (betel
leaf-wrapped beef). Many eateries in both cities
boast in their names that they serve fare from ba
mien, meaning the three regions.
Hanoi does seem to have a monopoly when it
comes to the tongue-in-cheek. In 1946, Vietnam
was recovering from a famine that claimed
millions of lives. Now, a Hanoi restaurant named
after that year gives customers a taste of
austerity, with basic fare, intentionally chipped
dishware and peeling walls.
A similar eatery that has been generating a lot
of buzz is Cua Hang An Uong Mau Dich So 37, or
Food Trade Shop Number 37. The food is slightly
better than at 1946, but you really go for the
theme. Diners pay upfront, in exchange for
ration slips, which disappear with each dish that
arrives. Best of all are the nostalgic trappings of
Vietnam’s subsidy era splashed across shelves
and walls, from rotary phones and transistor
radios, to lanterns, satchels and even a hanging
bicycle. My dinner companion was, in the 1980’s,
a young boy, but remembered lining up with his
parents to claim their state-apportioned food.

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During dinner, he pointed out a decorative brick and explained
that Vietnamese used to write their ration numbers on bricks and use
them to hold their spots in line.

Vietnamese only can reminisce about those old days

because they’ve moved on. Much as foreigners tend to dwell on the
war era, few Vietnamese cling to grudges. Einstein called nationalism
an infantile disease, which probably can be said of municipal
rivalries, too.
When you visit both cities, wander off the beaten path and among
the alleys to see what locals like—in food, architecture, culture and
daily life. Vietnamese really take advantage of public parks, to
breakdance, rollerblade, play games, rehearse. In Hanoi, you’ll see
laughing yoga in the morning and sexy dance aerobics at night; in
Saigon, old women do hip-hop to burn calories, and mechanical
treadmills turn the parks into outdoor gyms.
It’s tempting to give Saigon the edge when it comes to cost.
Consulting firm ECA International ranked it as the most affordable
for expats in Southeast Asia last year. But in second place? Hanoi—
whose locals insist that they save money, while southerners are
materialistic, perhaps working hard but spending their earnings
instantly on meals out, karaoke and mobile phones. The capital has
advantages. It’s less congested, more peaceful and less polluted. There
is a pervading sense of history and beauty and calm. Some like the
relief of chilly winters after humid summers. It was during a crispweather walk through a Hanoi park anchored by a Lenin statue when
I met Moreau, the designer, who told me he’s chosen to live in the

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Saigonese wake
up early and stay
out late. They
aren’t nursing
an inferiority
complex; they’re
driving the
economy
capital for the past five years, after two in
Saigon. In truth, though, I think he’s a rarity.
People favor Saigon. Northerners abound there.
It’s not so easy to find a southerner who has
migrated to Hanoi.
As a Vietnamese-American, I find it hard
enough to fit in. The country tries to lure Viet
Kieu like me back, but, once here, we face a
lose-lose reality: We are not Vietnamese enough
when speaking the language or knowing the
customs and we are too Vietnamese in that we
don’t have the white skin that parents want for
their children’s English teachers.
Still, Saigon’s long tradition of welcoming
everyone is what drew me here. This
cosmopolitan place is lively and inviting.
Vietnamese generally are friendly people, it’s
just that southern Vietnamese are friendlier.
They know it and can articulate it. “Southerners
are more open-minded and tolerant,” a young
friend tells me. I’ve found Hanoians, on the other
hand, struggle to justify why they prefer their
city, except out of childhood attachment.
When my family left Hue in the late 1980’s, we
got on an unsafe boat and slipped into the UN
refugee camp in Hong Kong just before the door
closed. Recently I met a Vietnamese-Australian
who happened to work at the camp at the time.
He told me they had to separate northerners and
southerners into different housing units to head
off skirmishes. I figured my family would have
stayed above the fray, but he said, no, we most
likely were lumped with the southerners. Maybe
I’m not such an impartial judge after all. ✚

An outdoor barbershop
with flair, Hanoi-style.
Opposite: Skateboarders
and b-boys rock it in a
Saigon park.

The French began building
the Hanoi Opera House in
1901, based on the design of
Palais Garnier in Paris.

he first time I heard about Koh
Phayam was in 2005. Described in a pamphlet as
being “like Koh Samui in the seventies,” this small
kangaroo-shaped island skirting Burma’s
maritime border on Thailand’s Andaman Coast
caught my eye, not for what it offered, but for what
it came without: the go-go bars, traffic and fullmoon parties that had turned some of Thailand’s
most beautiful islands into cringe-worthy
parodies of their former, stunning selves.
There was no traffic on Koh Phayam because
there were no roads, only a concrete motorbike
track that runs through the dense tropical brush
at its center. There was no airport. The only way
to get there was on a passenger ferry that
departed in the mornings from a jetty on the
outskirts of the town of Ranong, roughly halfway
between Bangkok and the Malaysian border. It
was not connected to Thailand’s electrical grid,
though there were a few generators and solar
panels on the island. There were no luxury hotels
or concrete resorts, with accommodation limited
to 30-something bungalow properties. Most were
set on or around Aow Yai and Buffalo Bays: two
long sweeps of powder-fine sand that curve
deeply into rocky outcrops honeycombed with
caves. And best of all, it attracted only a few
hundred tourists a week—a sliver of the millions
that can be found running riot on the islands of
Phuket and Koh Samui any day of the year.

Time would fold on itself as longtail fishing
boats came and went across island-studded
waters and, if luck would have it, I’d reel in a few
red-bellied pacu—a close relative of the piranha.
I’d hand my haul over to a noodle lady with a stall
behind the pier, who’d fry and plate the fish with
fresh rice and papaya salad for less than the cost
of a soft drink back home. And I’d spend the rest
of the day visiting friends, cruising around on my
mountain bike, playing beach volleyball or
sneaking in an afternoon siesta.
There were about a dozen different beachfront
restaurants one could select for dinner, and every
second evening or so there’d be a small informal
party with a DJ or someone strumming a guitar.
Unlike the busier islands in Thailand, tourists
weren’t cliquey or exclusive—we were a loose
crew composed mostly of young people from
Singapore, backpackers from Scandinavia,
couples from Australia and families from
Bangkok. Tanned, healthy and in love with our
island, the conversation flowed easily and
friendships bloomed.
I returned to Bangkok a new man with a new
mission. I quit my job, surrendered the lease on my
apartment and spent the next nine months
bunkered on Koh Phayam. A good chunk of my
stay coincided with Thailand’s rainy season: only a
dozen or so tourists remained on the island and
every day was accompanied by lashing, heavy rain.
It didn’t faze me. I passed time completing
Maquis, a novel I’d started writing two years
earlier while working at a newspaper in Cambodia
but had put aside indefinitely when I relocated to
Bangkok. And when the tropical sun came out in
snatches from behind the black monsoonal clouds,
I’d drop whatever I was—or wasn’t—doing and go
swimming, fishing, mountain-bike riding or do
just about anything to keep my heart pounding.

Every second
evening, it
seems, there’s an
informal party at
a beach bar.

B

urned out after a year on a hectic news
desk in Bangkok, Koh Phayam was the
medicine I’d been craving. I spent a
glorious month on the island
reconnecting with nature and my inner hippie.
I’d kick off the day with a refreshing swim in
tropical blue waters or, if I was feeling up to it,
grab a kayak and paddle out to a coral reef and
back, often sighting white-bellied sea eagles and
oriental small-clawed otters on the way.
Afterwards, I’d grab breakfast at Baan Namchaa,
an organic café run by a pair of gracious Burmese
ladies in a clearing behind the beach. Then, I’d
either get stuck in a book or pedal my mountain
bike through the jungle to the village and throw a
line over the jetty.
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Though I moved back to the city a long time
ago, my mind is always soothed when I imagine
myself sitting alone in my little bungalow at
night, typing under the light of an old gas lamp.

I

n the years that have passed, I’ve returned to
Koh Phayam a half dozen times. Every time I
return, I fear the worst... that the fragile
beauty of my tiny island will have been
upended by speculators of property, fisheries or
palm oil. In essence, she’s stayed the same,
welcoming me back to her warm turquoise waters
and cashew-scented brush as affectionately as
the day we first met.
But in some ways, Koh Phayam is changing.
Newish developments include a series of concrete
bungalows with generator-powered air con and
television on Buffalo Bay, and another on Aow Yai
Bay. The motorcycle track that connects the two
main beaches to the village pier is spotted with
new businesses and an ever-growing number of
bars line the zenith of Aow Yai.
“Going back a few years it was easy to find a
place where you could be totally alone here,” says
Linda Chevrier, a Thai national whose French
father established Koh Phayam’s first bungalow
complex in the late 1980’s. “Now it’s not so easy.”
That’s not entirely bad. “Development has been
good for the local people; they have more money
and can afford to send their children to school,”
points out Stella Lefevre, a French national who
lives on the island. “But I see a problem with
outside people who come here to make money.
They are not part of the community.”
The big thing that might save Koh Phayam
from the wrecking ball is water supply—or lack
thereof. The island is home to five freshwater
streams. But catchment is weak and streams
evaporate into trickles in the dry season, creating
a costly proposition for water-greedy resorts.
For now, it seems, Koh Phayam is safe, as are
the simple pleasures of island life. Biking through
boscage. Discovering the bizarre sandstone
formations at Aow Kao Kwai Beach. Visiting the
sea gypsy village on the western peninsula. A
game of football with local kids whose names are
hard to remember but whose smiles are not. Or
sitting back and taking in a famous Koh Phayam
sunset—yellow and magenta flares reflect off the
swell as the sun, a burning orb, melts through a
layer cake of cloud and evaporates into the mirror
that is the Andaman Sea.
“Those of us who like it here put up with minor
inconveniences,” says Dave Roberts, a retired
British Air Force officer who runs a minimart on
the island, “and look what we get in return: the
sun, the sea and some of the most beautiful
people I’ve met in my life.” ✚

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The simple pleasures of island
life... Biking through boscage.
Football with local kids whose
names are hard to remember
but whose smiles are not

+

T L Guide
Getting there
Happy Air (66-2/
1348-0000; happyair.
co.th) flies from
Bangkok to Ranong
daily. From Ranong
Airport, catch a taxi to
the Koh Phayam Pier.
The Koh Phayam Ferry
(Bt150) departs from
here at 9 a.m. with a
2 p.m. service available
between November
and March.

041-3349; from Bt500)
both have bungalows set
in cashew gardens, on
opposite ends of Aow
Yai Bay.
PP Land Beach Resort
Eco-property on Aow Hin
Khao Beach a 10-minute
walk from the pier. 6681/678-4310; pplandheavenbeach.com; deluxe
bungalows with 24-hour
solar power from Bt600;
dinner for two Bt170.
EAT AND DRINK
Baan Manchaa
Vegetarian café and juice
bar. 50 meters east of the
first intersection on
Northern Aow Yai Rd.;
breakfast for two Bt100.
Blue Sky Resort
Steaks, burgers, salad on
the waterfront. Aow Hin
Khao Beach; dinner for
two Bt280, imported wine
from Bt800.
Silver Sand Snapper,
lobster and mud crab
feasts for up to eight
people. Booking must be
made 48 hours in

advance. Market prices
for seafood apply.
DO
Phayam Divers Phayam
Lodge on Buffalo Beach;
66-86/995-2598;
phayamlodge.com; day
trips to Surin Rock with
diving gear and lunch
Bt4,900 or Bt3,900 for
snorkelers.
Thai Cooking Classes
Buffalo Bay Vacation
Club; 66-85/107-9473;
buffalobayclub.com;
private cooking classes
for the cost of your meal.
Visit the Chao Lay (Sea
Gypsy) village in the
northwest coast for
insight into prawn
fishing, cashew nut
farming and salt-making.
PP Land Beach Resort
offers massage, yoga
classes and game fishing.
T+L Tip
Many businesses open
only during the high
season, from November
to March.

Sunrise breakfast at the
Chamilandu Bushcamp,
in Zambiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South
Luangwa National Park.

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Z
A
M
B
I
A
U p C los e

With top-tier guides, plentiful wildlife
and a circuit of simple yet stylish
bush camps and river lodges, this underthe-radar safari destination
is Africa for purists. on wheels, on water
and on footâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and from the vantage
of his own bathtubâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; Peter Jon Lindberg
gets an intimate look at Zambia.
P hotographed by M o n ika H oefler a n d J e n s S chwarz

s

ummer AFTERNOONS
on the Zambezi can reach 40 degrees, but with the sun at
our backs and a breeze off the water, it felt oddly cool in our
two-man canoe. We had paddled a half a kilometer upriver
before slipping into one of the narrow channels meandering
inland. Now we glided in calm water through pristine,
bird-speckled wilderness. The grass glowed emerald-green.
From our vantage the buffalo onshore loomed twice as
large; elephants appeared as tall as baobab trees. But they
posed us no threat on the water. The channel banks, on the
other hand, were crowded with 5-meter-long crocodiles,
their eyes like milky green marbles. At our approach they’d
slither silently into the stream, then vanish in the murk
beneath us. Meanwhile, hippos poked bulging eyes from the
water to stare at us, unblinking—then they, too, would
disappear below the surface. (Hippos can hold their breath
for six minutes.) Our main concern was to avoid passing over
these ornery beasts, since an angry hippo can easily topple a
canoe. At which point the crocs become a problem.
I was up front, scanning the dark water for eyes. In back
was my guide, Paul Grobler, a Zimbabwean expat with the
droll affect of a Canadian comic. He also ends most sentences
with “eh?”
“If we swamp, swim away from the boat, eh?”
Say what, Paul?
“Crocs attack the largest object first, and that’s the canoe.”
So I should just swim to shore and wait there?
“No, no, don’t leave the water. Hippos and elephants see
you as a bigger threat on land.”
Oh. So I should just…discreetly tread water somewhere?
“Right,” said Paul. “But keep away from the boat, eh?”

I’D BEEN HEARING THE WORD from Africa insiders:
Zambia was the continent’s great unsung safari destination,
and unquestionably its best value. The game viewing is
reliably excellent, the quality of local guides superb and the

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A young bull elephant
in South Luangwa
National Park.

we startled
an elephant on
the nearest
bank, who began
stomping
alongside us,
kicking up dust
and blaring
furious Ornette
Coleman
arpeggios

A Chiawa Camp canoe safari through Lower Zambezi National Park.

parks offer a diversity of experiences seldom combined
elsewhere: canoeing, fishing, boat rides, night drives and,
not least, walking safaris—a concept pioneered in Zambia’s
South Luangwa Valley by the late naturalist Norman Carr.
“If you’re serious about bush walking, Zambia is the place
to do it,” said safari outfitter Cherri Briggs of Explore Inc.,
who owns a house on the Lower Zambezi. In short, it’s
perfect for experienced Africa hands, but also makes a fine
introduction for first-timers. (I was one myself.)
Zambia promised a more natural and authentic bush
experience than its better-known counterparts—“like Kenya
30 years ago” was the refrain I kept hearing. Much of this
derives from the lodgings themselves, which reflect a
shifting ethos in safari travel. “Before, the priority was the
lodge, and it was overdesigned for luxury,” said Michael
Lorentz, founder of Passage to Africa and Safarious.com.
“These days, people simply want comfort—a lodge that’s
small, genuine, wild and exclusive. The focus is more on the
guide and on the safari experience itself.” Zambia certainly
fills that bill. While big-name safari companies have
made inroads, the field is still defined by intimately scaled
river lodges and bush camps, many of them founded and
operated by Zambians—people like Andy Hogg, who started
the Bushcamp Company, a collection of six camps in South
Luangwa that find a tasteful balance between luxurious and
rustic. Or Grant Cumings, whose family runs two excellent
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and long-standing properties, Chiawa and Old Mondoro,
in the Lower Zambezi. With those camps as my bases—and
with Briggs’s expert counsel—I plotted out a 10-day trip.
Part 1

SOUTH
LUANGWA

South Luangwa National Park is among the most highly
regarded game parks in Africa, yet it draws considerably
fewer visitors than its equivalents elsewhere. The Luangwa
River and its tributaries support a staggering concentration
of wildlife, including 60 different mammals (among them
14 species of antelope) and 400 bird species. Given the mostly
flat terrain—yellow-green grasslands and floodplains;
groves of ebony and mahogany; countless oxbow lagoons—
the park is ideally suited for walking safaris.
The Bushcamp Company’s six properties are scattered
in the remote southern end of the park, just a few hours’
walking distance apart. Most visitors stay at several
over a week or more, often hiking camp to camp (bags are
delivered by vehicle). Tucked in unspoiled wilderness,
sites are well removed from other lodgings. The quiet is

From left: A South Luangwa leopard; David Mambo, a guide at Old Mondoro camp, in Lower Zambezi National Park.

remarkable. Even in peak season, you rarely pass another
group; the valley seems to be yours alone.
The Bushcamps stand out for their chic design; their
minimal footprint (they run on solar power, and most are
dismantled at the end of each season); and, not least, their
ace resident guides. (South Luangwa, in general, has a
rigorous two-year training requirement for all walking
guides, and park safety standards are extremely strict.)
Each Bushcamp sleeps six to eight guests; meals and
activities are usually communal. All the camps are lovely,
especially Chindeni, with its elegant teakwood decking and
breezy, spacious tents perched over a wildlife-rich lagoon,
and Chamilandu, whose open-fronted tree houses face a
prime stretch of the Luangwa River.
Mornings—especially those delicious, hour-like minutes
before dawn—quickly became my favorite time at
Chamilandu. How novel to be woken not by the marimba of
an iPhone but by the thrum of bees around a flowering
Natal mahogany tree. Its jasmine-y aroma sweetened the
still-cool air. The buzzing found its counterpart in the basso
grunts of hippos, yards from my bed, splashing back into the
river after nocturnal forays inland.
As the sun rose over the pale misty hills, I’d join the other
guests for a fireside breakfast: fresh melon, creamy porridge
and strong Zambian coffee. By 6:30, we were in the Land
Rover, with guide Gilbert Njobvu at the wheel and our

rifle-toting scout, Davey Banda, riding shotgun. (All walking
groups are accompanied by an armed, park-appointed
escort.) After a short drive we’d park, step out and walk,
single file, into the bush. There was no trail to follow; Gilbert
would improvise our course based on nearby signs of life.
In September—Zambia’s early summer—the Luangwa
River runs near-dry for long stretches, and the valley is
anything but lush. This is peak safari season: animals
congregate around the few remaining water sources, with
less foliage to provide cover. Drained of color and liquid,
much of the terrain is a dry and crackling brown. You think,
This could be autumn in Michigan—but then you hear a
rustle behind some shrubbery, and up pops the head of a
giraffe. A Thornicroft’s giraffe, to
it’s a ‘cackle’
be precise, the rare subspecies
of hyenas,
unique to Luangwa. Gilbert
a ‘leap’ of
motioned for us to follow, and we
leopards, and
sneaked around behind him to
a ‘business’ of
emerge in a clearing. The rest of the
mongooses.
tower—it’s a “tower” of giraffes
it’s a ‘tower’
when stationary, a “journey” when
of giraffes
on the move—stood beside a
when they’re
parched lagoon, attempting to
stationary,
quench their thirst.
a ‘journey’
Bush walks are not only about
on the move
seeing wildlife firsthand, but also
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From left: Thornicroft’s giraffes in South Luangwa National Park; a tent at Chiawa Camp, on the
Lower Zambezi. Opposite: Inside a guest tent at South Luangwa’s Chindeni Bushcamp.

about the suggestion of wildlife: a tamped-down patch of
grass, the sandy imprints of last night’s hippo migration,
and, of course, an infinite variety of animal droppings.
Every 60 meters Gilbert would take a knee to fondle another
curious ball of scat, pointing out semi-digested seeds, nuts
and grasses. (When people told me I would see a lot of really
cool shit in Zambia, they didn’t know the half of it.)
Walking also brings you closer to things you scarcely
notice from a vehicle—animal dens; medicinal plants;
half-devoured bones. We came upon a buffalo skull, its nasal
cavity shattered. “Lions did this,” Gilbert murmured,
CSI-style. “They’ll attack the nose and mouth first, then hold
it shut to suffocate the beast.”
We became so attuned to rumors of wildlife that we once
nearly missed the real thing. The leopard was lazing on a
branch just above us as we passed beneath the acacia tree:
a beautiful young male, paws dangling, tail curling like a
cobra. It was Jason, a fellow guest from England, who
spotted it first. Leopards tend to stay hidden by day, but this
one was veritably posing. Prior to this, Jason told us,
he’d visited eight African game parks and seen only a single
leopard. After 26 hours in Luangwa, he’d already spotted
five. (I wound up seeing 10 in as many days in Zambia.)
We continued on in the steadily increasing heat, past a
dazzle of dozing zebra, past vast herds of impala with big

soft anime eyes. From the river’s edge we watched a dozen
ecstatic crocodiles gorge on a hippo carcass, flipping it in
the water to tear off more flesh. Their bellies were distended
from the feast. When we passed the same spot two days
later, the carcass was down to clean white ribs.
Traipsing across a cleaved floodplain, we heard a distant
whooosssssh, like storm winds rushing in. Strange—the
rains were weeks away. The sound grew louder; now it was
like someone shuffling a giant deck of cards. Gilbert pointed
up, and at last we saw it: a vast, sky-blackening funnel
cloud of red-billed quelea birds, tens of thousands in tight
formation, spiraling earthward like a feathered serpent and
headed straight for us. We were soon engulfed in a whorling
bird storm. Just as quickly, all went quiet again. The entire
flock had alighted on a single bush, a hundred meters away.
“Farmers call them ‘feathered locusts,’ ” Gilbert said.
“They can wipe out a whole field of crops in an afternoon.”
The senses sharpen considerably when your feet are on
the ground. Without the rattle and fumes of an engine,
the sounds and smells of the bush are heightened tenfold—
like the sinister Jabba-the-Hutt chortle of unseen hippos,
or the saccharine scent of the woolly caper bush,
reminiscent of Necco wafers. I constantly felt like I was
stoned, not least in the company of Cape buffalo, whose
faces are so singular and expressive that you’d recognize any
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87

one of them in a herd a month later. Look, doesn’t that old
male look like Donald Sutherland?
Most of all, walking allowed us the luxury of sweet,
slowly unspooling time—time for not merely spotting but for
observing, time to linger and watch for a while. This proved
to be the difference between a snapshot and a film: suddenly
you had movement, context, character, plot.
“That infant is dying,” Gilbert whispered. We were
crouched under a sausage tree, watching a troop of baboons.
He was right: a pink-eared newborn, his body limp, was being
passed around by his mother and father and older siblings,
who whimpered gently in distress. We watched this drama
unfold for the better part of an hour, until the family quietly
slouched away, perhaps preferring to grieve off-camera.
Part 2

LOWER
ZAMBEZI
After a week in dusty South Luangwa, the shimmering
sight of the wide, blue Zambezi came as a shock. Water, it
turns out, changes everything.
Lower Zambezi National Park unfolds along 119
kilometers of Africa’s fourth-longest river. (That’s Zimbabwe
on the opposite bank.) Wedged between the Zambezi to the
south and a 1,200-meter-high escarpment to the north, the
park is dominated by riverine woodlands and alluvial plains
carpeted in mossy green grass. Though smaller and less
biodiverse than South Luangwa, it is considerably lusher,
even in the dry season.
A short drive and a 20-minute boat ride from Royal
airstrip delivered me to Chiawa, set along a magnificent
stretch of the Zambezi, from which vantage the camp seems
to disappear into the forest. Nine tents made of timber, reeds
and canvas—and outfitted with colonial-style furnishings
and claw-foot tubs—are spread along the hillside. Chiawa is
known for superb walking, fishing and canoeing excursions,
and the latter were surely the highlight of my trip. It helped
that I was paddling with Paul Grobler, Chiawa’s senior guide.
Though our aforementioned croc and hippo dodgings made
for some nerve-racking moments on the water, these were
mitigated somewhat by Paul’s deadpan wit.
There’s a Zambian expression I love: “We’ll make a plan.”
It means we’ll deal with it. Paul uses it a lot.
“Huge croc just dove under the canoe, Paul.”
“We’ll make a plan.”
Every so often we passed the skull of some unlucky buffalo
or impala, perched on the riverbank as if left there as a
warning. Rounding a blind corner, we startled an elephant on
the channel bank, who began stomping alongside us, kicking
up dust and blaring furious Ornette Coleman arpeggios.
Paul, unmoved, was carrying on about the Nile crocodile.
“A near-perfect creature,” he was saying. “Virtually
unchanged since the dinosaur age. Incredibly efficient—a
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killing and eating machine. Most
acidic stomach of any animal. The
heart pumps in CO2 to help with
digestion. Did you know they only
have to eat twice a year?”
There were lighter, lovelier
moments: the sight of carmine
bee-eaters nesting in the cliffside,
their vermilion and teal plumage
resplendent against crumbling
sandstone. Or the sudden
appearance of a Goliath heron—1.5
meters tall, the largest heron on
earth. Or the juvenile baboons
playing king of the mountain atop a
termite mound, pratfalling like the
Three Stooges. And, later, the sun
sinking over the Zambezi, turning the water to molten gold.
“This is so peaceful,” I said to Paul as we drifted
downstream, then abruptly swerved to avoid our umpteenth
crocodile. “And also completely terrifying.”
“Mmm,” he replied. “We’re relaxing at the edge of death.”
My heart was still pounding when I stepped out of the
canoe and onto the Chiawa dock. A porter handed me a gin
and tonic, and I gulped it down with shaking hands. That
night I lay awake with two vivid impressions: (1) I nearly got
eaten today, and (2) I loved it.

i was
enjoying a
post-hike
soak in the
tub when a
bull elephant
appeared in
my backyard.
we performed
our ablutions
in tandem: i
with bath gel,
he with
clouds
of dirt

BY NOW I’D DEVELOPED a serious guide-crush on Paul.
(Did I mention he also dabbles in metalwork and
astronomy?) The next morning, I was the first to sign up
for his guided bush walk. Things I learned in the first 29
minutes of our hike:
• Impalas can leap 3 meters high from a standing position.
• Elephants mourn their dead by scattering their bones.
This is why you seldom see an intact elephant carcass.
• The pink gentian flower can be pollinated only by
the carpenter bee, whose wings vibrate at the frequency of
middle C, prompting the anther to release the pollen.
• It’s a “cackle” of hyenas, a “leap” of leopards and a
“business” of mongooses.
• Hippos, it was only recently discovered, use clicking
sounds to communicate underwater, much like dolphins
and whales, to which they are most closely related.
It was like walking with Attenborough. We chanced upon
a group of elephants clustered around a hole by the river.
They were digging for the sand-filtered water below to give
their young a safe, croc-free drinking source, Paul
explained. Like a road crew at a manhole, some were
working, others just standing around. One looked up and
waved his trunk, as if flagging us past. Nothing to see
here, people.
ELEPHANTS ARE THE MAIN DRAW at Old Mondoro,
Chiawa’s smaller and more primitive sister camp, which sits
in a glade of winterthorn trees, whose seedpods are
pachyderm catnip. A local group hangs around camp all day,
coming right up to the bar, close enough to touch. (Don’t.)

When my boat transfer from Chiawa pulled up just
after lunch, a three-tonne female elephant was standing
beside the dock, as if to welcome us. For 20 minutes we could
only idle in the river as she grazed, until she finally
wandered off. There were six more bathing in the lagoon
outside my hut. I was instructed to radio for a Land Cruiser
to deliver me the 140 meters from my room to the dining
pavilion, as the elephants made it too dangerous to walk.
The intimacy of their presence can lead one to forget
they’re wild beasts. That said, elephants are natural
performers—mock-fighting in the river with tusks and
trunks entwined; swimming against the current, the
babies’ trunks clinging to mothers’ tails; or plucking leafy
greens from the riverbank and swirling them in the
water, like humans washing lettuce.
Old Mondoro has four simple guest huts, with reed
half-walls and canvas flaps that pull down at night. Out
back, overlooking the river or lagoon, is a porch with a
daybed and an outdoor shower and tub. I was enjoying a
post-hike soak in the tub one morning—in the company of
a chirping tree frog—when a bull elephant appeared in my
backyard. His skin was wet from the river, and now he was
gathering up sand and showering himself with dust. (This
functions as both a sun guard and a parasite remover.) We
performed our ablutions in tandem: I with bath gel, he with
clouds of dirt. Soon he was completely beige. All that sand
looked terribly itchy, I thought, and the elephant clearly
agreed, for at this point he began scratching his belly with
his penis, then scratching his penis by stepping on it. (A
problem all men wish they could solve thusly.) I managed to
grab my camera and film the final seconds of this odd ritual,
until the elephant got embarrassed or annoyed—wouldn’t
you?—and marched off into the privacy of the woods.
BACK AT CHIAWA for my final day in Zambia, I met with

owner Grant Cumings over sundowners on the riverfront
terrace. Grant was born in Lusaka, Zambia’s capital, but
spent much of his youth in the wild, water-skiing the
Zambezi—yes, the Zambezi—and exploring the country’s
remote bush. After college in Florida, Grant returned home
to open Chiawa, the first camp inside the park, in 1989.
Both Chiawa and Old Mondoro have garnered a cultlike
following; one-quarter of the guests are repeat visitors.
“That couple there are on their 23rd stay,” Grant said,
pointing at two enviably fit, silver-haired Brits across the
terrace. “One guest comes twice a year for three weeks at a
time—he’ll book Paul for the duration and walk or canoe
with him every day.” [Note to self: Befriend this guy.]
We watched a lone warthog skitter through the tallgrass
by the river. Suddenly, three female lions sprang from the
brush. Grant shot up, and a few other guests rushed beside
us to watch. A kill looked certain, but the warthog pulled
off a miraculous escape, and the dejected cats slinked away.
“Shall we pursue?” asked Grant, sporting a schoolboy’s
grin. Our impromptu group piled into the Land Cruiser and
took off in the gathering dusk, the sky now streaked with
rose. For 10 minutes we tracked the pride up the floodplain
with no sign, until: “There!” Grant pointed left. My eyes

fixed on a small mahogany tree, and at last I saw them:
two, three, no, four lions hidden in the foliage, splayed on
branches that barely held their weight. The cats were
motionless and entirely relaxed. Grant inched the vehicle
closer, and I caught one’s eye. As she peered quizzically
through a gap in the leaves, I snapped her portrait. (That
photo now hangs over my desk.)
The evening was moonless and crystal clear as we
continued northward. We wound up spotting a leopard on
the prowl, two bush pigs and seven—count ’em—seven civets
in 10 minutes. Then our host slowed to a stop at the crest of a
rise, killed the engine and switched off the lights.
Here we realized the advantage of an open-top Land
Cruiser. A magnificent bowl of stars had emerged overhead.
We leaned back on our bench seats, gazing at the strange
constellations of the Southern Hemisphere. Orion laid on
his side, resting. A breeze blew in from the escarpment,
carrying the now-familiar scent of Natal mahogany. In the
distance a hyena called. No one said a word. It could have
lasted three minutes, or 15, or forever. I remember thinking,
I am already nostalgic for this.
Collectively willing the moment not to end, we sat silent
and still, holding our breath, waiting for the key to clink, for
the engine to turn. ✚

Zambia

N

South
Luangwa
National
Park

z a m bezi
riv e r

Lusaka

lake
k a ri bA
v ic tori a
fa l l s

Lower Zambezi
National Park

livi n gston e
0

400 KM

+

T L Guide
travel Agent
Explore Inc. T+L A-List agent
Cherri Briggs is a regional expert
and part-time local resident.
She creates custom safaris to the
camps featured in this story—
and beyond. exploreafrica.net.
stay
Bushcamp Company bushcamp
company.com; from US$420 per
person per night, all-inclusive.
Chiawa Camp chiawa.com; from
US$525 per person per night,
all-inclusive.
Old Mondoro oldmondoro.com;
from US$565 per person per night,
all-inclusive.

When to Go
May through September, the
dry season, is ideal. You'll find
good prices in April.
Getting There
Fly to Lusaka (LUN). From
there, Zambia-based Proflight
flies to Mfuwe airport (for
South Luangwa) and Royal
airstrip (for Lower Zambezi).
Lodges can arrange flights to
and transfers from either.

The Basics
To travel to both South
Luangwa and Lower Zambezi,
you need at least eight days.
(This trip was 10.) Visas-onarrival are required for citizens
of Australia, Brunei, Burma,
Cambodia, Canada, Japan,
Laos, New Zealand, the
Philippines, South Korea, the
U.S., Vietnam and most
European countries. Visit
zambiainformation.gov.zm for
the complete list, as well as for
visa requirements and those
countries that are exempt.
Tour operators can arrange
dual-entry visas. Travelers are
advised to take antimalarial
medication. Consult your
doctor about vaccinations that
may be necessary.

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89

It List
The coolest new hotels of the year.

City 92
Rustic 94
Design 96
Beach 99
Renovation 101
Resort 103

For our eighth annual editors’ choice awards,
we logged thousands of kilometers to find the 61
extraordinary hotels that are transforming their destinations.
From a city resort in Bangkok to a stylish getaway in
Bhutan, this year’s crop does not disappoint.
Read on for 2013’s most groundbreaking openings.

←

Botanique
Hotel &
Spa, Brazil

Tuca ReinÉs

High in the mountains
of Vale dos Mellos,
258 kilometers
northwest of São Paulo,
sits a stone-and-glass
lodge that showcases
the best of the country.
There’s the wine cellar
(all Brazilian); the food
(farm-to-fork); and the
furnishings (sourced by
Adélia Borges, the
country’s leading design
authority). The six
suites and 11 villas are
built with reclaimed
wood and have terraces
that overlook the valley.
But this is not luxury
to satisfy all tastes—
floorboards are rough,
bathrooms doorless and
décor is on the spare
side. Still, the range
of activities—horseback
riding, capoeira,
cooking classes—are
enough to keep the most
restless of guests happy.
botanique.com.br;
doubles from US$1,150
all-inclusive. For more
winners in our Resort
category, see page 103.

A suite at Botanique
Hotel & Spa, in Brazil.

City
A club executive
suite at the Mandarin
Oriental Guangzhou.

↑ Mandarin Oriental
Guangzhou, China
Just 210 kilometers north of Hong Kong, this
sprawling metropolis—population 12 million-plus—
is China’s next boomtown. A magnet for regional
entrepreneurs, Guangzhou’s attractions include
noteworthy new architecture (the Zaha Hadid–
designed opera house), a thriving food scene (it’s the
capital of Cantonese cuisine) and a flurry of luxury

T+L’s Top
City Hotels

India fairmont.com;
Rs8,000.

Ba nya n Tree
Sha nghai
on th e Bun d

Four Se asons
hotel Toronto

fourseasons.com;
C$545.

banyantree.com;
RMB1,700.
Das Stue

Berlin
das-stue.com; 190.
E ast, Beijing

east-beijing.com;
RMB938.
Fairmont
jaipur

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gr a n m eliÁ
rom e vill a
ag rippin a

gran-melia.com;
431.
hub Porteño

Buenos Aires
hubporteno.com;
US$272.

Leel a Pal ace

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hotel openings. Among the big brands staking their
claim here, Mandarin Oriental sets itself apart with
alluring interiors: the 287 accommodations, created
by Tony Chi, are clad in black wood, muted bronze
and mirrored chrome, while labyrinthine layouts
modeled on ancient Chinese courtyard residences
lend an intimate feel. Business travelers will
appreciate the central Tianhe district, while
pleasure-seekers will want to tap the street-smart
concierges, who led us to the city’s best hand-pullednoodle stalls. mandarinoriental.com; RMB2,300.

Chennai, India
theleela.com;
Rs10,000.
Ma n darin
Oriental

Guangzhou, China
mandarinoriental.
com; RMB2,300.
NoM ad Hotel

New York City
thenomadhotel.com;
US$435.
Pal ace Hotel

Tokyo
en.palacehoteltokyo.
com; 38,000.

Pal acio
N a z are nas

Cuzco, Peru
palacionazarenas.
com; US$550.
Park Hyat t

Hyderabad, India
park.hyatt.com;
Rs9,000.
Sha ngri-L a

Mumbai
shangri-la.com;
Rs10,900.
sofitel mumbai
ba n dr a kurl a

sofitel.com; US$175.

People are still buzzing
about the “new Brooklyn,”
where each artisan
establishment seems to
out-craft the next. And the
Wythe—near the
Williamsburg riverfront—
has become the crown
jewel of the borough’s
renaissance. Converted
from a 1901 factory, the
72 rooms are studies in
restraint, with original
cast-iron columns,
salvaged-timber-beamed
ceilings and cement floors
(heated on colder nights).
Details are steadfastly
local, from toile wallpaper
that evokes the cityscape
to the small-batch brews in
the mini-bars. Downstairs
at Reynard restaurant, the
tattooed staff serves
farm-to-table dishes, but if
it’s the hipster scene
you’ve come for, the Ides
rooftop bar will deliver in
spades. wythehotel.com;
US$285.

If you’ve always fantasized about living in a medieval
Tuscan town, Monteverdi is the hilltop retreat you’ve been
waiting for. At just seven suites, the scale is decidedly
intimate, with chic farmhouse interiors by Roman
designer Ilaria Miani, all neutral hues, rich textures and
whitewashed antique wood. And of course, you have the
picturesque setting, in the tiniest of villages (population:
25), on one of the highest hills in the Val d’Orcia, recognized
by unesco to be among the region’s most beautiful valleys.
And thanks to a restoration by the owners—an ItalianAmerican family who have taken a slow and steady
approach to integrating the property into the town—it’s
the kind of retreat that encourages hunkering down, even
though the best of Tuscan wine-and-food country is just a
short drive away. monteverdituscany.com; 350.

↓ Odzala
Camps,
Republic of
the Congo
With only western lowland
gorillas, forest elephants and
a handful of Pygmy tribes to
call it home, northern Congo’s
Odzala-Kokoua rain forest—
the second largest in the world—
has remained unexplored
by travelers. Now Wilderness
Safaris is pulling back the
curtain on Africa’s next great
safari destination with the
region’s first high-end camp. Two

sustainably minded lodges—
Lango, on the edge of the
savanna, and Ngaga, set deep in
the rain forest—consist of 12
elevated tree-house suites
constructed with local bamboo
and decorated with Congolese
crafts and artifacts. Leather and
canvas campaign furniture and
wraparound terraces add
creature comforts, as does the
organic French cuisine. But the
real draw is Odzala’s unrivaled
access to its wild neighbors,
particularly the 20,000 resident
gorillas who live just outside
your door. odzala-kokoua.com;
six nights US$5,885 per person.

A tree-house suite at
Odzala’s Lango Camp,
in the Republic of the
Congo’s Odzala-Kokoua
National Park.

T+L’s Top
Charming
Hideaways
berkeley river
lodge

Kimberley Coast,
Australia
berkeleyriver.com.au;
three days for two allinclusive US$2,900.

Leave it to a rock star to
build Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next
great resort. ThaiAmerican musician
Krissada Sukosol Clapp
spent seven years
obsessing over the
details of his dream hotel
on the banks of the Chao
Phraya River. He hired
renowned architect and
designer of hotels Bill
Bensley to channel Old
Siam in the rooms and
public spaces, acquired
traditional Thai
teakwood houses for the
restaurant and spa, and
combed through
markets in Southeast
Asia, Europe and the
United States for
eye-catching objets
(18th-century Chinese
ceramics salvaged from
shipwrecks; vintage Pan
Am posters of Thailand).
And while this retreat is
bound to impress design
aficionados, it also has
the sybarite in mind: the
39 suites and villas,
which start at 80 square
meters, offer a welcome
escape from the city with
deep soaking tubs,
bamboo-shaded gardens
and enormous beds with
nap-all-morning appeal.
thesiamhotel.com;
Bt19,185.

Marseilles, France
mamashelter.com;
49.
The balcony of suite
No. 3 juts out over the
faÇade of Macalister
Mansion in Penang.

↑
Macalister Mansion
Penang, Malaysia
Take a hundred-year-old manor house and
add mid-20th-century furnishings, life-size
animal sculptures and large bathtubs lined
with silver mosaic tiles, and you’ve got
Malaysia’s most stylish new hotel. Located
on the island of Penang—home of the

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th e siam

Bangkok
thesiamhotel.com;
Bt19,185.
SLS South
Be ach

unesco-designated 18th-century George Town

neighborhood—the eight-room Macalister
Mansion references the destination’s colonial
past, but with a bold nod to the future. To wit:
the entrance’s 2.4-meter-high resin bust of the
first British governor of Penang. Come
evening, take a 20-minute taxi ride to the
center of George Town to explore one of
Southeast Asia’s most exciting street food
scenes, or linger at the hotel for a dinner of
assam laksa (tamarind-infused fish soup).
macalistermansion.com; RM695.

The three-room Oyster Inn
is modeled after the baches
that dot the island.

↑
Oyster Inn
Waiheke
Island,
New Zealand

Just 35 minutes from Auckland by ferry,
Waiheke Island is the Montauk of New
Zealand, combining the cool cachet of your
prototypical seaside town (beach shacks made
of castoff wood; laid-back residents) with a
sophisticated edge. Kiwis have known about it
forever, but the world is just catching on,
thanks to the Oyster Inn, a three-room retreat
near Oneroa Beach modeled after the rustic

houses, or baches, that dot the island. Set in a
Victorian-era newspaper office, the guest
rooms are small but sweet, all whitewashed
walls, exposed rafters and colorful kilims.
We whiled away the day at the patio café
overlooking Oneroa Bay, happily ordering
platters of bivalves plucked straight from the
sea. Turns out they didn’t name it Oyster Inn
for nothing. theoysterinn.co.nz; NZ$300.

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99

Beach

↑
Mukul Beach, Golf &
Spa, Guacalito de la
Isla, Nicaragua
When Nicaraguan industrialist Carlos
Pellas decided to build the country’s first
five-star hideaway, he chose an undeveloped
stretch of land on the Pacific coast—a blank
slate, in effect, to create a new image for a
country in flux. Pellas smartly added the
familiar trappings of luxury: plunge pools,
butlers, a spa with themed treatment rooms,

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a golf course designed by David McLay Kidd.
Mukul soars on its strong sense of place: the
staff is mostly local, and the furniture in the
23 cliffside bohios and 12 freestanding beach
villas is built by hand (unique touches
include headboards made of rum-barrel
staves and polished pewter tables).
Grass-fed Nicaraguan beef, as well as
Pellas’s own excellent rum, Flor de Caña, is
served at the beachfront restaurant. And,
there is a palpable feeling of pride in a
project destined to help transform this oasis
and jungle into Central America’s next
fashionable destination. mukulresort.com;
US$600.

Serenity is the word that comes to mind when
you enter one of the Peninsula Hong Kong’s
renovated Tower rooms. There’s gleaming
burl-wood cabinetry with hardware modeled
after vintage trunks and luxurious upholstery
and paneling in creamy tones; the only dash of
color comes from the blossom appliqué hovering on one wall, a subtle reminder that you
are, after all, in Asia. Nestled deep within the
walls of these classic modern spaces is 21st-

century technology on steroids: electronic
panels control the rooms’ various features,
from lighting, window treatments and music
and video selection, to a guide to the city and
live flight-status updates in five languages.
And then there are the heart-stopping views
of Victoria Harbour and towering buildings
of Hong Kong Island—a sparkling rim of
lights once the sun goes down. peninsula.com;
HK$4,480.

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101

Renovation
A reading nook in the
Reales Alcazares Suite
at the Hotel Alfonso
XIII, in Seville, Spain.

Built in 1929 to host the
Spanish king’s crowned
cohorts, Seville’s Hotel
Alfonso XIII has never
abdicated its role as
the city’s premier address
for discerning visitors.
But even royal retreats
occasionally need a
makeover, which is why
Starwood spent nine
months and US$25
million restoring the
landmark—an
Andalusian architectural
confection of colorful
tiles, carved plaster and
curlicue ironwork.
Traditionalists may
grieve over the
disappearance of heavy
furnishings from the
151 guest rooms and suites,
but we love the lighter
new colors, restored
antiques and sexy
shimmer of vivid silks
(everyone looks princely
in the new peacock-blue
American Bar). And now
that the traffic-clogged
streets once isolating
the hotel have been
converted to pedestrian
walkways, the property
feels like your very own
private oasis in this
romantic city. luxury​
collection.com; US$374.

Eastern Bhutan, with its pristine landscapes
and well-preserved Buddhist temples, has
had little in the way of stylish retreats. Enter
the newest offering by Como hotels, in the
untouched Punakha Valley. The sleek sister
property to western Bhutan’s Uma by Como,
Paro, is a welcome haven between long treks
through the Himalayas: nine guest rooms
designed by Malaysian-born Cheong Yew

Kuan (also behind the Como Shambhala
Estate, in Bali) are clad in native blue pine,
while floor-to-ceiling windows overlook
rolling green hills. A breakfast of ginger-andlime muffins with house-made watermelon
jam fortified us for a trip to Punakha Dzong
Monastery—one of the country’s most
important sites—just a 25-minute hike along
the valley’s lush rim. comohotels.com; US$400.

If the ancient Greeks designed a city on a
hill today, with all the innovations of the
modern world, it would probably look and
feel like Amanzo’e. Its stone columns,
hectares of olive trees and panoramic views
of azure seas—not to mention its 38
residence-like, plunge-pooled guest
pavilions, private beach club, three
27-meter-long green-marble-lined pools

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and 1,115-square-meter spa—would make
any returning Homeric hero weep. Add to
that its covetable position on the
Peloponnese peninsula’s sun-drenched
southern coast, known for secluded pebbled
beaches and easy access from Athens (the
capital is just over two hours away by car or
hydrofoil), and you’re well on your way to
Elysium. amanresorts.com; 1,100.

Often written off as too staid, the city-state is
continually evolvingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;its restaurants, night spots,
hotels and other diversions leading Asia into the
global spotlight, writes Christopher Kucway.
Photographed by Darren Soh.

The fast-changing
Keong Saik Road.

singapore

The W Singapore—
Sentosa Cove.
N

orchard
east coast parkway

chinatown
club street

singapore strait
sentosa island
0

1.6 KM

Lay of
the Land

Chinatown
Not just any old Chinatown,
Singapore’s version is, well,
clean. There’s an endless
array of places to eat
and—these days—stay and
shop, but remember to go
on walking tours early in the
day or in the evening to
avoid the equatorial heat.
Orchard Road
Abuzz with all things that
epitomize the city’s
modernity, this is airconditioned bliss if
shopping for the latest
labels is your thing.
Club Street
Cheek-by-jowl with
Chinatown, this everchanging street is lined
with restaurants and bars.
Head a block or two further
west for a fast-growing
collection of even newer
eateries.
Sentosa
A great stop when you have
kids in tow, the place to get
away from it all in Singapore
has become crowded. Still,
it’s good for a weekend
break within the city.
East Coast Parkway
Crowded on weekends, and
rightly so, the ECP is the
spot for seafood—as any
day at the beach should be.

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Stay
Some hot new hotels in the city and a reworked favorite.
W Singapore
Far-flung and funky, the
design-centric hotel in
all its eye-popping
orange and purple is
aimed at those in need
of some fun in the sun.
Head to Skirt, which
specializes in meat and
seafood dishes, such as
saltbush lamb and any
number of deep-sea
fish. starwoodhotels.
com; doubles from
S$408.

Hotel Naumi
Liora
A series of 10
interconnected and
refurbished shophouses
in a cool mixed

neighborhood adds up
to 79 odd-shaped
rooms with the latest
mod-cons, plus free ice
cream and coffee in the
lobby. Book a Liora
Porch room that opens
out onto a slightly
hidden outdoor deck
above a shaded jogging
path. naumiliora.com;
doubles from S$195.

Park Royal on
Pickering
Looking like a giant
planter from street
level, the hotel prides
itself on its green
focus. Its 367
guestrooms are finished
largely in wood and

stone, but what’s more
obvious on the plus
side of its eco-ledger
are recycling bins for
plastic, glass and paper
in each room.
parkroyalhotels.com;
doubles from S$310.

The Forest by
Wangz
If you’re looking more
for a serviced
apartment feel, even
the 25-square-meter
studios here come with
modest kitchenettes,
though the Molton
Brown amenities and a
clean, modern look that
is standard throughout
give off a hotel vibe.

Shangri-La
Singapore
An older hotel by
comparison, the
Shangri-La is still a
gem, neatly tucked into
a green corner in the
center of Singapore. Its
entirely renovated
Garden Wing is
surrounded by 6
hectares of landscaped
greenery, most notably
a waterfall and a koi
pond. shangri-la.com/
Singapore; Garden Wing
doubles from S$489.

One to Watch Sofitel So Singapore (sofitel.com) opens in November, with modern Karl Lagerfeld
touches adapted to what was a historic postal and telecommunications building.

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Shopping
Beyond the obvious labels.
World Savage

The signs say it all in this
hole-in-the-wall: this ain’t
no museum. this junk’s for
sale. Junk it is not—though
anti-Orchard Road might
prove a more apt description.
Count on funky retro clothing
for both men and women,
fantastic jewelry finds that
someone’s grandmother used
to wear and other assorted
oddities from around the
world. worldsavage.com; 70
Bussorah St.; Bugis MRT.

Inhabit—the other
store

From top: Outside
the distinctive
World Savage;
inside the shop’s
racks of vintage
clothes; three
clutches from
Property Of...; a
durable dufflebag
from the shop.

Cool and sometimes
hard-to-find labels—think
Dion Lee and Les Aperizes—
from beyond Singapore are on
the racks here, for both men
and women, and featuring
established and emerging
brands offering dressy and
casual looks. 333A Orchard
Rd.; Somerset MRT.

Property of…

Hardwearing travel bags and
backpacks made of waxcloth
and vegetable-tanned
leather—in other words,
perfect for tropical climates
during the wet season. For a
real splurge—it will set you
back around S$900—invest
in the brown leather
backpack. Just don’t forget it
on the MRT! thepropertyof.
com; Orchard MRT.

Revamped and worth a visit,
this contemporary art hub is
home to 14 galleries, but be
sure to pop into The Drawing
Room and the Sundaram
Tagore Gallery, two nods to
the international art scene.
gillmanbarracks.com; 9 Lock
Road; Labrador Park MRT.

An acrylic on wood
Franz Kafka, by Lee
Waisler at Sundaram
Tagore Gallery, part
of Gillman Barracks.

Red Dot Design
Museum

For something a bit more
hands-on, head to this
museum on Maxwell Road
where more than 200
designs are on display. Don’t

On an art and culture crawl across
the city, some hidden riches.

stop there: opt for a half- or
full-day tour of designoriented stops in the
neighborhood. The museum
shop is interesting, veering
from the terminally cute to
items you wish you’d thought
of. museum.red-dot.sg;
Tanjong Pagar MRT.

Singapore Tyler
Print Institute

Specializing in contemporary
paper and print art, the
institute offers several
exhibitions each year, with
some of Picasso’s works on
paper on view in August.

There are also workshops
dealing with topics such as
fabric printing or etching.
stpi.com.sg; by appointment
only; closest MRT stop Clarke
Quay.

Marina Bay Sands

Monstrosity it may be, but
the complex always has a lot
to offer. Until November 4,
the ArtScience Museum is
hosting Mummy: Secrets of
the Tomb, a collection of
more than 100 artifacts and
six mummies from the British
Museum. marinabaysands.
com; Bayfront MRT.

Here’s proof that it’s not
necessarily a bad thing
to order a sashimi set at
a restaurant that’s
actually noted for its fine
cuts of beef—slow
grilled over charcoal or
seared on the teppan.
Just remember to book
ahead. fat-cow.com.sg;
lunch or dinner for two
S$100.

Kaixo

Do not stop by here on a
Monday. The Basqueinspired eatery is often
out of items listed on its
menu after popular
Friday and Saturday
seatings. Phone ahead
for a chance to sample
cherry-flavored
gazpacho; roast scallops

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with braised leeks; the
jamon-lomo-chorizo
combination, which is
listed as “pure Iberico;”
or, if you’re going wholly
native, plates of pintxos
à la Basque country. The
wine list, while not
extensive, is focused on
Spanish labels. 96
Tajong Pagar Rd.; dinner
for two S$100.

Tamarind Hill

Perched atop Labrador
Nature Reserve in the
west of the city, the
restaurant in a colonial
bungalow serves fairly
standard Thai cuisine
but is worth a visit for
the historical touches
and tranquil setting.
Book a table on the lanai
with views out to sea.

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samadhiretreats.com;
dinner for two S$160.

Charlie & Co.

In an age when worrying
about what’s in your
meat is a cool concern,
this Aussie import is a
straight shooter. Order
the New Yorker burger:
grass-fed sirloin, aged
cheddar, caramelized
onions and the sea-salt
fries with chili jam.
charlieandco.com.au;
lunch for two S$50.

Artichoke
Café+Bar/
Overdoughs
bakery and deli

Rugged, grungy and not
always traditional is the
description you’ll get of
the café’s Moorish

cuisine. Add to that: fun.
Now the Overdoughs
Bakery and Deli—really a
counter in the sculpture
garden outside—offers
takeaway treats in the
afternoons. artichoke.
com.sg; dinner for two
S$100.

HAWKER CRAWL

Chinese, Indian, Malay or
a mix of all three—
everyone needs to eat a
few dishes from each
cuisine when in
Singapore. One of the
better ways to sample
Singapore’s mix of
flavors is at a hawker
center such as Maxwell
Road. Do not miss: char
kway teow, bak chor mee,
nasi lemak, laksa,
biryani…stop when sated.

Broadcast HQ
Some vintage vinyl with your
lunch? This brick-walled
refurb morphs from a great
little lunch spot in the day to
a vibrant club and bar at
night—think espresso
martinis along with albums
you thought you’d never find
again. The second-floor bar
has just been redone.
broadcasthq.com; drinks for
two S$30.
The Bar at Waku Ghin
Can’t finagle a table at the
restaurant? Drop into the mod
bar for a cosmopolitan or two
along with appetizers that
start at S$20. Oh, and there’s
four pages of whiskey listed
by where it was distilled, so
you might want to make a bit
more room in your dayplanner. 65/6688-8507;
drinks for two S$40.
The Naked Finn
Schedule your tour of Gillman
Barracks later in the day and
stick around for the minus 12
degrees Celsius coconut
cocktail at The Naked Finn,
and you’ll definitely feel far
from the city. Snack on grilled
seafood. nakedfinn.com; drinks
for two S$35.

From left: Inside the
popular Keong Saik
Snacks; mixing
cocktails at the
Cufflink Club; a
chance to unearth a
treasure at Tong
Mern Sern Antiques
Arts & Crafts.

Local Take
Get the scoop on the city
from three insiders.

JIA EN TEO

i l l u s t r at i o n s b y w a s i n e e c h a n ta k o r n

Co-founder,
Roomorama

You’ve not been to Singapore if you
haven’t tried chili crab. Head to
Melben Seafood (232 Ang Mo Kio Ave.
3; 65/6285-6762; dinner for two S$55)
and order it—and butter crab and blackpepper crab too, if you have room.
Keong Saik Street and its surrounds
has been slowly gentrified over the
past few years. Dop by Keong Saik
Snacks (49 Keong Saik Rd.;
keongsaiksnacks.com; dinner for two
S$60) for gourmet diner food. For
drinks, go to The Library (47 Keong
Saik Rd.; 65/6221-8338; drinks for two
S$35). It’s called an un-named bar, and
you’ll need a password to get in.

Going
Green

MR. HAS

TRACY PHILIPS

Artistic Director
W Singapore

Creative consultant,
Present Purpose

Check out the new club Kyo (133 Cecil
St., #B1-02; 65/6225-6001; drinks for
two S$35), where I love the basement
underground feel that serves my
favorite Hendrick’s gin and tonic
with a dash of deep house music. Go
early to avoid the long queue. If you
are up for something more mellow,
try Cufflink Club (6 Jiak Chuan Rd.;
thecufflinkclub.com; drinks for two
S$35), a bar setting with an extensive
cheeky cocktail menu. Last but not
least, don’t forget to check out
Woobar at the W Singapore—
Sentosa Cove. Sip and flirt while DJs
spin until late.

I’m not a coffee drinker but The Plain
(50 Craig Rd.; the plain.com.sg; lattes
for two S$10) is the one place where I
make an exception. They serve a
generra, coffee with chocolate and
orange zest that is heavenly. After the
caffeine fix, head next door to Tong
Mern Sern Antiques Arts &
Crafts (51 Craig Rd.; tmsantiques.com)

to trawl the three-story shophouse
and its array of treasures amassed
since it opened in 1972. For
repurposed furniture, travel a bit
further outside of the city to the
warehouse of Like That One (2 Bukit
Batok St. 24).

To get a real sense that you’re near the equator and not in a big city, head to MacRitchie
Reservoir Park and its walking trails that range between 3 and 11 kilometers. If you’re not
afraid of heights, then opt for the TreeTop Walk, a journey that gives you a bird’s-eye view
of the tropical forest surrounding the reservoir and takes between four and five hours to
enjoy properly. nparks.gov.sg

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111

Strategies
Checking in 114…How to Score a Freebie 115… Loyalty Program News 116… When to Book 117

Your A to Z Guide
to a Better Hotel Stay

Want to be the ultimate hotel insider—or simply
land a nicer room? Here, our 26 tips on how to maximize your
experience, from getting perks and freebies to
finding the best room rate and enjoying a great night’s sleep.
Reported by Jennifer Coogan, Nikki Ekstein, Amy Farley, Jennifer Flowers, Merritt Gurley, Tom Samiljan and Peter Schlesinger.

Photographed by Holly Lindem

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113

STRATEGIES

Hotel Handbook

D

Deals

DealAngel, our favorite

new online hotel search tool,
doesn’t just aggregate
bargains and sort them by
price; it also compares the
offered rate with the hotel’s
average, assessing just how
good a deal you’re getting.
Bonus: the site’s handy
color-coded calendar helps
you figure out the most
affordable times to travel to
your favorite destinations.

E

Exercise

The best way to lighten your
suitcase: skip the gym
clothes—but not the gym.
Westin has a gear-lending
partnership with New
Balance that provides
guests with clean workout
clothes and sneakers (with
fresh insoles) during their
stay at any of the brand’s
international hotels,
including The Westin
Beijing Chaoyang and The
Westin Chosun, Seoul.

A

Arrivals

If you’re angling for an
early arrival, some hotels
will let you pay for the
privilege. For $30, you can
check in as early as 9 a.m.
at Aria and the Bellagio, in
Las Vegas. Guests at the
Peninsula Beverly Hills get
their room whenever they
like and stay as late as they
please—even if it’s more
than 24 hours later—just by
calling in advance.
Similarly, Starwood’s most
loyal guests (those who log
75 nights a year) can check
in at any time and keep the
room for a full 24 hours.
Top-tier members of the
GHA Discovery Program

(which includes Omni
Hotels and Kempinski
Hotels) are rewarded with
9 a.m. check-in when

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available. Even if you don’t
have elite status, it never
hurts to ask. Phone ahead
with a polite request and
you may be accommodated.

B

Bundling

Hotels drop prices to
unprecedented lows when
they can “hide” their room
rates from the general
public. One way they do it:
bundling rooms with
airfares through online
travel agents such as
Expedia, Orbitz and
Travelocity. In a recent
test, we searched for
round-trip tickets from
Bangkok to Singapore with
a seven-night hotel stay at
the Mandarin Oriental,
Singapore. Bought
separately, we’d have had to
pay $3,351. Bundled on

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a .c o m

Expedia, however, we’d pay
$217 less—a more than 6
percent savings, which you
can use instead for, say, a
dinner out in the Lion City.

C

Club Floors

Don’t be fooled: club-level
rates at brands such as
Ritz-Carlton, Fairmont and
Marriott may be higher, but
they can offer real value.
Here’s what you get when
you pay $90 to upgrade to
a club level Deluxe room at
The Portman Ritz-Carlton,
Shanghai.

A hotel that lets you arrive whenever you please?
No, it’s not too good to be true.

F

G

freebies

Gratuities

Three ways to get hotel perks.

Here’s your all-in-one cheat
sheet for hotel tipping.

1 Be loyal.

Each brand offers different
benefits to its repeat
guests. Kimpton Hotels’
InTouch members, for
example, get free Wi-Fi
access and newspapers,
a $30 in-room spa credit,
and $10 toward the
mini-bar. The best part?
The program is free to join.

Bellman $1 per bag.
Concierge $10 to $15 for

performing a special
service, such as scoring
tickets to a sold-out event
or wrangling lost luggage
from your airline.
Doorman $1 for hailing a cab
in rush hour or in the rain;
$1 for each bag.
Housekeeping Around $5
per day. Leave it at the front
desk if you want it divided
equally among all your
housekeepers.
Room service A service
charge is almost always
included in the bill.
To personally thank your

2 Book with an
expert travel agent.

At the 975 hotels that are
part of the Virtuoso
network (virtuoso.com),
affiliated travel agents
can secure significant
perks for their clients,
from free airport transfers
and museum admission
to dining and spa credits
worth $100. Likewise,
agents in the Signature
Travel Network

(signaturetravelnetwork.
com) can arrange free
breakfasts and bonuses
such as a 50-minute
massage at Raffles Grand
Hotel d’Angkor in Siem
Reap, or welcome canapés
and champagne at The Nam
Hai hotel in Hoi An.
3 Join the club.

The new, members-only
booking site Want Me
Get Me puts you on the
general manager’s VIP
list and grants you such
perks as complimentary
Wi-Fi access, automatic
upgrades and pick-yourown extras (free valet
parking; cocktails;
breakfast; spa credits) at
more than 200 luxury
hotels, including select
Fairmont, Oberoi,
Peninsula, Standard and
Ace properties.

server, $1-$2 will suffice.
Valet $5 when your car
is delivered.
Note: Tipping protocol varies
widely throughout Southeast
Asia. Check online for
information about local
tipping customs when
traveling in the region.

I

infidelity

Having trouble staying
faithful to just one hotel
brand? Expedia’s loyalty
program is custom-made
for hotel-brand agnostics.
You can earn points by
booking airfare, hotels and
car rentals on the site,
then redeem them for either
flights or hotel stays.
(Bonus: there are no

blackout dates and no
restrictions.) If you earn
elite status, you get free
upgrades and perks at
more than 1,200 properties.

J

jack of
all trades

The one gadget that makes
every hotel a workstation:
CB2’s ultra-compact
Universal Travel Adapter

(cb2.com; $23). It’s half
the size of its competitors ​
and has one simple switch
that toggles between
built-in plugs for virtually
every destination around
the world. It comes in
four bright colors, making
it easy to find in your
suitcase.

H

Hair

Take a load
off, ladies.
In addition to the
ubiquitous hair
dryer, more
hotels are offering
curling and
flat irons to the
standard list
of ­bathroom
supplies. Look for
them in all ­Hyatt
and K
­ impton
properties soon.
Hotels are taking bathroom
amenities to the next level.
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Extended-stay hotels may
have a ho-hum reputation,
but for value-seeking guests,
they are one of the best
travel finds. You can save
money on meals by using
the in-room kitchens, and
rates are usually lowest on
weekends, when corporate
demand wanes. Major
chains are responding by
adding style-conscious
brands: the Marriott has
Executive Apartments
available in business
districts across China,
India, Indonesia, South
Korea and Thailand.
Another worldwide brand,
Sommerset Serviced
Residence, provides
amenities like rooftop pools
and thoughtfully stocked
kitchenettes. The staff will

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even help you organize
get-togethers to help you
network and make friends.

M

L

Four hotel brands are putting
the concierge in your pocket.

loyalty
partnerships

The divide between airline
and hotel loyalty programs
is shrinking. A new
partnership between
Starwood Hotels & Resorts
and Delta Air Lines allows

Starwood Preferred Guest
platinum and gold members
to earn Starpoints for every
dollar they spend on Delta
fares. Similarly, Delta
Medallion members with
silver or higher status will
get SkyMiles for money
spent on Starwood rooms.
And status members of both
programs get priority
treatment at the other.

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Mobile concierges

Conrad This all-in-one

concierge app handles
wake-up calls, dinner
reservations, valet parking,
bath amenities and even the
chore of check-in. Android,
iPad, iPhone
Hyatt When you use the tag
@hyattconcierge on Twitter,
you will get a response from a
concierge within 15 minutes.
InterContinental

Concierges from each of
InterContinental’s 127
destinations package their
little black books for your
smartphone in an app that
has tips on where to shop,
what to eat and what
to pack. iPad, iPhone
Ritz-Carlton Along with

O

opting in

Loyalty pays—
especially when it
costs nothing to
join. Many brands
offer perks and
benefits to even
the lowest tier of
loyalty-club
members. So next
time you’re at a
hotel, sign up.
What do you have
to lose?

t hi s s p r e a d : I l l u s t r at i o n b y P e t e r A r k l e

The latest twist on in-room dining:
you get to play chef in your very own kitchen.

The days of furiously
downloading content onto
your iPad before you travel
are numbered: AppleTV is
coming to a hotel room near
you. Starwood has begun
rolling out the service at its
Aloft properties (with plans
to debut it at other brands
later). You’ll be able to log in
and play your own music,
edit photos, make Skype
calls and even stream House
of Cards on Netflix on your
in-room TV. Data is deleted
between guests, so you don’t
need to worry about security.

P

S

You no longer need to pay
exorbitant in-room or
cellular roaming fees to
make international calls.
Internet phone services such
as Skype, Rebtel and Line
offer free calls within their
networks, as well as greatly
reduced rates to landlines
(2.3 cents per minute on calls
to landlines in Hong Kong).
All you need is a Wi-Fi or
mobile hot spot and you’re
good to go.

Three ways to use
social media to get a better
hotel stay.

Phone calls

Q

Quiet Time

Crowne Plaza’s Sleep
Advantage program
provides “Quiet Zones”
where no housekeeping or
maintenance is performed
between 9 p.m. and 10 a.m.—
increasing your chances of
getting in those elusive
eight hours on the road.

T

Social media

timing

According to Rajiv Malhotra, head of
marketing for Southeast Asia and India
at Hotels.com, when it comes to
snagging deals and planning the
perfect trip, timing is everything.

1 Tweet the property

before booking to see if any
special deals are available.
Hotels often broadcast
deals on social media first.
You can also do a keyword
search (hotel name and
“deal”) on Twitter.

The average room rates across Bangkok remain fairly consistent
through the year, though prices may be slightly more affordable
towards the end of the year. With little difference in costs, the best
time to visit is between late-November and mid-January,
Thailand’s coolest season.
In terms of affordability, the best time of make a trip down to
the island destination of Phuket is around the mid-year period.
This is when average hotel room rates could drop as much as 75
percent, compared to the festive periods at start and end of the
year. Keep in mind that the months of April, May, September and
October are the hottest and driest periods of the year as well.
Over in Malaysia, the most affordable time to visit the capital,
Kuala Lumpur, is during the first quarter of the year. This is when
hotel prices could dip close to 30 percent following the end-ofyear holiday rush.
In Bali, the best time to make a trip is clearly during the second
quarter of the year. Average room rates have shown the potential to
drop more than 42 percent compared to the rest of the year. What’s
more, the period between April and October is the island’s coolest
and driest, which makes it the ideal season for beach-goers.
While Saigon has a wet season that can stretch for as long as
eight months, the most affordable period to visit Vietnam’s
southern star is at the very beginning of it—April through
June—when travelers can enjoy as much as 20 percent in savings
on accommodation.

2 Introduce yourself

to the hotel on Facebook
and Twitter, and let the
staff know how excited you
are about your upcoming
trip. You might be rewarded
with a free upgrade.
3 “Like” hotel loyalty
programs on sites such as

Facebook and Pinterest to
get updates on extra
savings, such as the regular
24-hour Facebook flash
sales for Hilton HHonors
members.

R

Refunds

The new website Tingo
makes it extremely
easy to get a partial refund
if your hotel rate drops.
Book a refundable room
through the site, which
monitors the price.
If the rate goes down, Tingo
will automatically
refund the difference to
your credit card shortly
after your stay.

U

user reviews

TripAdvisor has come under

fire for hosting fake or
planted hotel reviews—so
much so that the site has
even implemented a new
policy to prevent guests
from trying to extort hotels
with the threat of a bad
review. That said, with so
many (more than 100
million) user contributions,

TripAdvisor’s genuine
reviews are usually easy to
separate from the plants
(watch out for unabashed
rants or raves, or strangely
corporate-sounding terms).
But if you’re still not
convinced, be aware that
some companies let only
verified guests post reviews:
look for them on Expedia
and the websites of
Starwood (starwoodhotels.
com) and Marriott (rewardsinsiders.marriott.com).
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117

STRATEGIES

Hotel Handbook

V

Tallinn,
Estonia
$201

value

W

Berlin
$206
Brussels
$186

Lisbon
$180

wi-fi

First place Peninsula

Delhi
$213

Cairo
$191

provides free in-room and
lobby Internet access.
Third place Fairmont,
Kimpton and Omni hotels
offer complimentary
Wi-Fi in common areas and
guest rooms if you join their
(free) loyalty programs.
On our radar IHG Hotels,
the parent company
of InterContinental,
Crowne Plaza and

Bangkok
$181

4 Book with the website
Room 77, a hotel search

engine that scans prices and
availability through
numerous online travel
agencies and automatically
contacts the hotel you
choose to request a room
that matches your
preferences (room views,
higher or lower floors,
distance from the elevator
and more).

How to get a better room.
1 Check in later in the
day, when hotels have a

better sense of their open
inventory for the night.
2 Be a loyalty-program
member.

Y

yuck factor

Shanghai
$214

Mumbai
$225

They have added incentive
to court return-guests
by giving them upgrades.

x marks
the spot

Last year, researchers from
the University of Houston tested
hotel rooms in three U.S. states
to pinpoint the germiest spots.
The takeaway: beware of bedside
light switches and remotes.

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Guangzhou
$166

3 Look for new hotels.

X

Second place Andaz

j u n e 2 01 3

Pisa,
Italy
$183

Marrakesh,
Morocco
$162

and Shangri-La Hotels
have free Wi-Fi not only
in all hotel rooms and
common areas but also in
their automobile fleets.

Beijing
$226

Budapest
$177

Holiday Inn, will give free
access to all loyalty-club
members starting in 2014.

Want to sleep in? Here,
some ways to secure a late
check-out. Clients of
Virtuoso travel agents (see
“Freebies,” page 115) get
priority treatment­—
including late departures—
at roughly 1,000 luxury
properties. American
Express (T+L’s parent
company) Platinum Card
members can keep their
rooms until 4 p.m. when
they book through
American Express Fine
Hotels & Resorts, which

includes more than 750
properties. Most loyalty
programs offer late
departures to high-status
members: Hyatt Gold
Passport grants 2 p.m.
checkout to platinumlevel guests; diamond-tier
members can stay until
4 p.m. Guaranteed 4 p.m.
checkout also comes
with Leading Hotels
of the World’s top-tier
program, which costs
$1,200 per year. ✚

I l l u s t r at i o n b y P e t e r A r k l e

Hotels.com’s latest
Hotel Price Index
pinpoints the cities
where you can find
luxury hotel rooms
for affordable
prices. Here, 10
destinations where
the average cost of
a five-star room still
comes in well below
$250 a night.

Le Sirenuse in Positano, Italy, has provided warm, unscripted service since
opening in 1951. Here’s a look at what happens behind the scenes.

8 a.m. The terrace pool,
lined with loungers and
potted lemon trees, is the first
priority. Attendants Oronato
Villani and Ivan Porrazzo open
the two dozen umbrellas. On
any given day, 200 Frette
towels are handed to guests.
9 a.m. Chef Matteo
Temperini corrects his lunch
menu to include the catch of
the day, pezzogna (sea bream),
instead of the usual branzino
(sea bass). He will serve it
roasted with lemon sauce.
10:10 a.m. Head
housekeeper (and 32-year
Sirenuse veteran) Nunzia
Della Pietra makes her
rounds among the hotel’s 58
rooms and encounters an
“exploding suitcase.” She
organizes the scattered
contents—even matching
the socks.
3 p.m. Captain Franco
Galano welcomes guests
onto Le Sirenuse’s private
launch, the 12-meter

Sant’ Antonio, and casts off for
an excursion toward Amalfi.
6:45 p.m. The Michelinstarred La Sponda
restaurant, with terra-cottatiled floors and bougainvilleacovered archways, is quiet
before the 8 p.m. service. But
in the kitchen, the staff is
busy cutting more than
14 kilograms of vegetables.
10:10 p.m. Ten VIP’s arrive
by yacht and order baked
lobster and risotto. Maître
d’hôtel Vincenzo Galani and a
pair of musicians perform
“Torna a Surriento,” a regional
melody.
12 a.m. With guests well
fed, the kitchen staff heads
to a nearby waterfront nightclub.
“When the staff is happy, the
guests are happy. We are
family,” says owner and general
manager Antonio Sersale. The
vibe is authentic: he is the son
of Franco Sersale, who
cofounded the hotel 62 years
ago. —peter schlesinger

Methodology Rankings are based on reader votes collected in the
Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards survey. Scores shown have
been rounded to the nearest hundredth of a point; in the event of a
true tie, properties and companies share a ranking. For the complete
methodology, go to travelandleisure.com/worldsbest.
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121

Last Look

Photographed by
Ted and Debbie

Anini Beach, Hawaii

Reef life
The 3-kilometer-long coral reef
ringing the beach is visible from
space. It flattens the ocean into a
safe haven for little ones, and an
aquatic playground for snorkelers
of all ages.

Setting sail from the
“Garden Isle”
Nestled on the north shore of
Kauai, Hawaii’s oldest and most
Edenic island, Anini Beach boasts
nearly waveless waters. Paddle a
wooden rowboat out onto them to
experience the cove from another
perspective.

A stupendous view

Upward-facing cat
Just northeast of the famous
Hanalei Bay, Anini sees far less
traffic, making it a popular spot for
campers—and a peaceful place
to unroll a yoga mat and practice
asanas in solitude.

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The many stress-reducing vistas
at Anini include weekend polo
matches backdropped by the
sea and the daily golden sunsets
unmarred by crowds.