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Topic Review (Newest First)

10-10-2010 06:23 AM

LATECH

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caballerokid

i like that greasing the door handle on a car the guy next to you has. i never did that to anyone i worked with lol... maybe im too nice??

Yeah it was a real riot untill the boss walked out and went to get into the car. Boy did he overheat.

10-09-2010 09:54 PM

mud.man.rj

valve adjustment.

I started out about 30 years ago adjusting 1/2 the int and 1/2 the exh valves but not all are perfectly at 0 lash this way so some are a bit tight and some a bit loose. So that is where the extra 6hp comes from when each valve is adjusted separetly. When I started adjusting them separetly I could pretty much put the covers on when done and not need any further adjustments.

10-09-2010 07:45 PM

Caballerokid

Quote:

Originally Posted by latech

I do one cylinder at a time also and I have been wrenching for quite a few years. You may need to do the multiple adjust method if you have four or five valve jobs at once or if your slappin together an engine on jeff gordons car so he doent get lapped but otherwise the couple extra minutes to do it right and one at a time is well worth not having to redo the adjustment.
I have allways said get good and then work on the fast part.
Its is also easier to keep track of if you have to stop for a phone call or to grease the door handle on your neighboring technicians car when he isnt looking.

i like that greasing the door handle on a car the guy next to you has. i never did that to anyone i worked with lol... maybe im too nice??

10-09-2010 05:24 PM

LATECH

I do one cylinder at a time also and I have been wrenching for quite a few years. You may need to do the multiple adjust method if you have four or five valve jobs at once or if your slappin together an engine on jeff gordons car so he doent get lapped but otherwise the couple extra minutes to do it right and one at a time is well worth not having to redo the adjustment.
I have allways said get good and then work on the fast part.
Its is also easier to keep track of if you have to stop for a phone call or to grease the door handle on your neighboring technicians car when he isnt looking.

10-09-2010 05:13 PM

Caballerokid

Cool deal Cobalt... I just wanted to get on here and say what I ended up doing and thats just what you posted. I rolled the engine over clockwise as viewed from balancer and watched say the intake open fully and then adjust that cylinders exhaust valve and vise-versa. I knew all along evidently just good to have affirmation that i am doing it right ya know... Thanks for all the help guys, I really do appreciate it!

10-09-2010 10:45 AM

cobalt327

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caballerokid

I did some searching on here for a refresher since I haven't done this in such a long time. normally i adjust each cylinder individually and thought about trying to go the quick way this time. Does this information sound right for a sbc?

"Starting with #1 and bring #1 up to tdc then do these vavles exhaust 1,3,4,8 intake 1, 2 5 ,7 rotate the crank one full revolution untill the timing pointer is on O at the crank shaft.... with #6th cylinder firing psition. Now do these valves exhaust 2,5,6,7 intake 3,4,6,8."

If the cam is a stock-type grind i.e. not a lot of duration, you can do it this way, it's called the "TDC Method" by some. The problems arise if the cam has any lifters up on the clearance ramps instead of all the way on the heel of the cam.

With performance engines, most will opt for the "EO/IC Method (Exhaust Opening/Intake Closing)" method, the way I have shown previously (originally from Crane, IIRC):

In order to adjust the preload, the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or "Heel" of the lobe.

At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder that you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. (If you are uncertain that you are feeling the "Zero" setting, jiggling the push rod up and down will sometimes give a better sense of when all the clearance has been removed.) When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close.When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

10-09-2010 09:13 AM

Caballerokid

ya, don't do too many engines at the dealerships ya know... quality and longevity have definately improved through the years. as far as the hp gain... i read something on here that stated it was something like 6hp??? not a lot but enough it would be nice to have those 6hp just from adjusting the valvs a certain way. i'm just coming up with conflicting information on the multiple cylinder method. going cylinder by cylinder is no big deal at all... i just want to make sure i have the correct information when adjusting multiple valves at once. you know what I mean?

10-09-2010 08:52 AM

pepi

I am not a ''certified tech'' just someone that been messing around with hot rods for a few years.

If you think this procedure is for you and you are paying attention to what you are doing fine. Dyno it before and after show us the out put data of your gained HP, I would be interested in the results.

I was pointing out that the method was a good one might not be for a rookie, or only a few times a year guy that adjust his own lifters.

You are the one that said " I haven't done this in such a long time." I mean who knew a real certified tech wow.

I here loads speed secrets and tricks and what you here is not always fact.

10-09-2010 08:24 AM

Caballerokid

Quote:

Originally Posted by pepi

Thats good for someone that does this regularly, but I would caution that doing it this way you will need to pay close attention to where you are at, a pro or seasoned mech. no problem, rookie stick with one cylinder at a time. Buzzing all over the engine could lead to a costly little mistake.

I mean really just how much time ya looking to save here ?

I'm a fully certified tech, this is just the first custom motor I've built and I have heard that doing the valves in this method is more acurate and will prove more hp than setting the valve on tdc for each cylinder. was i misinformed?

10-09-2010 08:21 AM

Caballerokid

the reason I ask is because I find this to be oposite from whats above. Can anyone confirm one or the other?

10-09-2010 08:14 AM

pepi

Thats good for someone that does this regularly, but I would caution that doing it this way you will need to pay close attention to where you are at, a pro or seasoned mech. no problem, rookie stick with one cylinder at a time. Buzzing all over the engine could lead to a costly little mistake.

I did some searching on here for a refresher since I haven't done this in such a long time. normally i adjust each cylinder individually and thought about trying to go the quick way this time. Does this information sound right for a sbc?

"Starting with #1 and bring #1 up to tdc then do these vavles exhaust 1,3,4,8 intake 1, 2 5 ,7 rotate the crank one full revolution untill the timing pointer is on O at the crank shaft.... with #6th cylinder firing psition. Now do these valves exhaust 2,5,6,7 intake 3,4,6,8."