First attempt at the fuse-tap method failed. No power to the V1 once wired and grounded. For the ground, I used the large Torx bolt (down & to the left of where you drilled the hole in the metal bracket). Is that torx bolt not a good ground?

I did 'press' the ground eyelet to the metal bracket (where you drilled for your ground), but still no-go.

Other than that, my install is virtually identical to this and can't figure out why there's no power to the V1.

You sure no power? Remember that the V1 needs to be turned on, and that you need two fuses in the fuse tap. That bolt is an excellent location for the ground.

Ok. I'm not a complete dolt. The V1 was definitely turned on.

I got it working, however, I'm not sure which of the 'changes' I made was the 'fix.'

The fuse-tap I used is a 2-10amp with the ability to piggy-back two fuses (obviously). The two things I changed was the direction that the fuse-tap was plugged in to the panel, and changed the slot where the original fuse was plugged in to the fuse-tap.

The large torx bolt is a good ground, however, before those two changes (above) were made, I had gone ahead and drilled a hole in the metal brace, and attached an eyelet to the ground wire, so I just used a self-tapping screw and grounded it there.

The install is complete and looks professionally done. Only about 3" of cord is visible and is very difficult to see from outside the vehicle.

And, I love the V1! By far the best detector I've ever had.

And I'm completely convinced that though I've only had the V1 for a couple of days, it's already paid for itself at least once.

I got it working, however, I'm not sure which of the 'changes' I made was the 'fix.'

The fuse-tap I used is a 2-10amp with the ability to piggy-back two fuses (obviously). The two things I changed was the direction that the fuse-tap was plugged in to the panel, and changed the slot where the original fuse was plugged in to the fuse-tap.

The large torx bolt is a good ground, however, before those two changes (above) were made, I had gone ahead and drilled a hole in the metal brace, and attached an eyelet to the ground wire, so I just used a self-tapping screw and grounded it there.

The install is complete and looks professionally done. Only about 3" of cord is visible and is very difficult to see from outside the vehicle.

And, I love the V1! By far the best detector I've ever had.

And I'm completely convinced that though I've only had the V1 for a couple of days, it's already paid for itself at least once.

Sounds good. Glad you got it working. I had trouble at first, didn't have the right combination of fuses.

I dropped my headliner and have about 3" in cord hanging as well, mounted to my visor.

I got it working, however, I'm not sure which of the 'changes' I made was the 'fix.'

The fuse-tap I used is a 2-10amp with the ability to piggy-back two fuses (obviously). The two things I changed was the direction that the fuse-tap was plugged in to the panel, and changed the slot where the original fuse was plugged in to the fuse-tap.

The large torx bolt is a good ground, however, before those two changes (above) were made, I had gone ahead and drilled a hole in the metal brace, and attached an eyelet to the ground wire, so I just used a self-tapping screw and grounded it there.

The install is complete and looks professionally done. Only about 3" of cord is visible and is very difficult to see from outside the vehicle.

And, I love the V1! By far the best detector I've ever had.

And I'm completely convinced that though I've only had the V1 for a couple of days, it's already paid for itself at least once.

Glad you got it figured out, sometimes its the simplest but most frustrating thing. Love my V1, definitely has made itself worth the money over the last couple years for me.

Juust finished hardwiring my V1 and I love it. Thank you for everyones help. Had to figure out why it was powering up at first, but after reading josh49 continually telling people to flip the fuse tap 180 degrees, I gave that a try and viola!

When doing the fuse box install, are you guys running the V1 hardwire kit, or directly from the V1 to the fuse tap? Wouldnt running the hardwire kit from V1 be redundant since the power source from the fuse box is already fused?

When doing the fuse box install, are you guys running the V1 hardwire kit, or directly from the V1 to the fuse tap? Wouldnt running the hardwire kit from V1 be redundant since the power source from the fuse box is already fused?

You can NEVER have enough fuses. Also just a heads up to everyone who uses the Add-a-fuse techniques: there are a lot of myths that over time the add-a-fuse adapters separate the contact in the fuse box so much that it loses contact. It probably is more vehicle specific but I thought I would just throw it out there. I've been using 3 add-a-fuse's for my car for the past 2 years and no problems yet.
The absolute best method is to use a fuse block. If you do that remember to use a fuse to go to the fuse block Here's a good example of one

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Originally Posted by BullowM3

what are u doing on these forums? you dont even drive a bmw or a respected car so i suggest you take your opinions to another forum. Thank you