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Windows 7: DVD's trays don't eject from time to time.

I have 2 different optical units a Sony DVD burner and a pioneeer and from time to time when i press the eject button on any of them the tray doesn't eject, you can see it 'trying' to open, but it's almost as if something inside is trying to 'stop' the thing from opening.

But other times both units work flawlessly.

Which is the culprit here? My PSU, my MOBO or Windows 7?

I suspect the culprit is the MOBO, i have a 2011 ASUS MOBO updated with latest firmware, any solutions please?

Yes Smiths just unplug and plug them in again (power - and SATA if you wish I would do both ).
Now if you want to check out the PSU see my little ditty and pic Using HW Info PART A:You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic.The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panelFOR OTHER COMPONENTSPART B: Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Hey, is your PSU modular? Maybe the rail is going bad or the cable has broken somewhere.

You can try (to diagnose if it's indeed power related).
- another connector on the PSU (if modular)
- a different power cable (if modular)
- use one of the molex connectors and a molex-to-sata power cable (it may have came with your case or some other component) - costs a couple of bucks if you don't have one.
- disconnect a data harddisk sata power temporarily and use that to power a DVD-ROM.

Yep GoKay mate the cable might be bad but the test I suggested will detect the rail voltage and the PSU does have that self testing circuitry that will stop the machine firing up if the rails are not right - or at least within +/- 5% of the required / stated voltage. That link I sent to the OP explains that quite well.

the PSU does have that self testing circuitry that will stop the machine firing up if the rails are not right - or at least within +/- 5% of the required / stated voltage.

This bit I had no idea about.

To be honest the best clue we have, I guess, is that both show the symptom at the same time. Now, if they were to lose all power then OS might have problem registering them in device manager? Also would play new device found sound? I wonder if they would open if in Windows Explorer you click Eject.

From a thread on tomshardware:
Things to try:
1) Shut down, remove the data and power cable to the drive, the boot up. Now shut down and attach the cables again.

*If #1 doesn't work, repeat but with a different SATA connection (to a different SATA chip. See the motherboard manual or just choose a different colour of connector).

Have the same thing happening with mine sometimes. It seems as if the latch does not release quick enough before the tray tries to open and then the pressure of the tray keeps the latch closed.
In my case if I give a quick push on the tray when it is trying to open, it releases right away and opens. Don't know if this works for you but if it does it means the latch has a wear spot and is sticking.
Art.

I have the same problem with repeated optical drives on my machine. It's just wear on the eject mechanism. Most CD/DVD drives are built very cheaply and the mechanisms wear out fast. I replace the drive and it works for a year, then it starts to open like this and I replace it.

Just a note, the drive open and close mechanism has almost nothing to do with the motherboard, other than the signal sent by some programs though the SATA port to open the drive. The button on the front of the drive is attached to electronics inside the drive, not the motherboard. If you actually disconnect the SATA cable, the drive will still open and close with this button with no attachment to the motherboard. At least mine will.

If it were a power problem the drive wouldn't spin, or not spin at its proper speed, as the turning motor is rated for 12V, so wrong voltage = wrong spinning speed = errors reading or writing to the CD or DVD.

I think this is simply a case of mechanical wear and coincidence, as long as the power supply checks out OK.

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