In the early hours of Sunday 21 March, the Eyjafjallajokull volcano, 125km east of Reykjavik in Iceland, sprang into life. It was the first eruption since 1823, and 600 people were immediately evacuated from the area, most to avoid potential floods that could be created by the volcano melting the glaciers that surround it

The eruption was clearly visible from Highway 1, the main road that circumnavigates Iceland’s coast, but initial fears about widespread flooding were unfounded. The eruption had happened not from the centre of the volcano, but a new crater sited between two glaciers at Fimmvorduhal. Because it wasn’t directly below an ice cap, only a small about of meltwater was created, and most residents were allowed to return home after 24 hours

Almost as soon as the evacuation was over, the tourists began to arrive. British tour operator Discover the World operates a “volcano hotline”, sending a message to hundreds of people who had previously signed up, and offering them the chance to get up close to the eruption by snowmobile, superjeep or helicopter

The crater happens to be on a popular summer trekking route, which runs from the hot springs at Thorsmork to the famous Skogafoss waterfall. Thousands of Icelanders have made daytrips from Reykjavik to see an area they already know transformed by the eruption

The beauty of the eruption makes it easy to forget how unpredictable, and dangerous, the volcano can be. On Wednesday night a new fissure opened up, and 50 tourists had to be resuced by helicopter, unhurt but having had a nasty shock

The area’s residents remain worried about further eruptions. Every time the Eyjafjallajokull volcano has erupted in the past, it has been followed within a year by an eruption of neighbouring Katla, a far bigger, more dangerous volcano. Katla’s 10km-wide crater sits below the Myrdalsjokull ice cap and an eruption would cause devastating flooding

Discover the World (01737 218 809) offer three nights at the Hotel Ranga from £312, plus £190 for a four-hour snowmobile trip to see the eruption, or £282 for a helicopter trip. Flights to Reykjavik are extra and start around £204pp with Icelandair, including taxes.