After much research and reading on how to hardwire a radar detector on a F30 I decided to go for it.

I initially wanted to wire it like I did my e90 but this was not possible due to different wiring in the dome lamp and pretty much in the entire F30 platform.

I also got a fair warning from my dealership that if I piggy backed anything to the wiring and if there were electrical issues the warranty would be void. Something I didnt want to risk on my 57k car.

So I opted for the harder, but safer route. The Fuse Box.

You will need the direct wire kit from escort passport wich is what I have, or V1 wire kit, or whatever youre hardwiring. I found my direct wire on Amazon for $8. The next few items you will need you can get at any local auto parts store. Mini add a fuse $7, fuses $5, 16 gauge wire spool $7. I chose black wire to stay stealty but you can pick any color.

Start in the trunk by removing the carpet panel and exposing the fuse box. Work your way toward the front ofthe car on the passanger side.

Youre looking for fuse #146 wich is the RPA and Homelink fuse. You can also use fuse #162 wich on my car is for the 12v accessory, but I chose not to as this is 12 gauge wiring, and I didnt want to lead 12 guauge into 16 gauge. But it will work the same way.

Map light removal credit goes to VSMotorsports, thanks for posting that up in a earlier thread and showing us how to take down the dome lamp.

Good Luck, Take your time, and follow the pictures.
Yes I know its a pain in the butt doing the routing through the trunk and along the panels, as well as time consuming. But this is all we have for now untill someone can find a wire inside the car to tap into, but this is taking chances with warranty as I described earlier. Any questions just PM me.

Yes initally it will take some time taking everything apart, but now you have done it and on your future cars, you will know exactly how to approach it. It will probablly take you half the time.

Im gonna do a laser jammer/shifter DIY in the spring as soon as it gets warm.

please post up an EDU for that. The longest part for me was the A pillar and weather stripping because the first time i put the weather stripping back on before the side pannel and A pillar then had to take them back off and the weather stripping off to put it back on in the right order.

please post up an EDU for that. The longest part for me was the A pillar and weather stripping because the first time i put the weather stripping back on before the side pannel and A pillar then had to take them back off and the weather stripping off to put it back on in the right order.

The a pillar can be tricky to take off. It's a keyed clip, so instead of pulling it off you slide it up towards you. I have since the write up gone back and concealed the wiring even better to the main floor loom. It's impossible to find now.

I mounted my V1 display directly to the flat area on the back of the steering column. It slightly obstructs the dash display while driving (so I have to lean forward to see the odometer) but it's not a big deal to me. It made it easy to route and conceal the wire as well without tearing everything apart.

The wire runs behind the flap that covers the wheel, underneath and back up behind the two center AC vents. That panel pulls off and then I was able to feed the wire straight down to the power outlet above the footwell.

Just a side note, I used the direct wire cord with the additional mute button. If you plan to utilize the mute button don't go up the passenger side like I did just to undo it all and go up the drivers side. Everything is exactly the same and I just ran my mute button next to the driver side seat controls.

Just a side note, I used the direct wire cord with the additional mute button. If you plan to utilize the mute button don't go up the passenger side like I did just to undo it all and go up the drivers side. Everything is exactly the same and I just ran my mute button next to the driver side seat controls.

I was planning on doing the smart chord eventually thanks for the heads up. It does make sense it would be closer to do it via passanger side.

I mounted my V1 display directly to the flat area on the back of the steering column. It slightly obstructs the dash display while driving (so I have to lean forward to see the odometer) but it's not a big deal to me. It made it easy to route and conceal the wire as well without tearing everything apart.

The wire runs behind the flap that covers the wheel, underneath and back up behind the two center AC vents. That panel pulls off and then I was able to feed the wire straight down to the power outlet above the footwell.

Looks good, clean setup. One of these days they will come up with a wireless smart chord that connects to the radar detector via bluetooth so we dont have to go through as much trouble to hide all the wiring.

Looks good, clean setup. One of these days they will come up with a wireless smart chord that connects to the radar detector via bluetooth so we dont have to go through as much trouble to hide all the wiring.

Thanks, it was actually pretty easy once I decided where I wanted to put it. Running it across to the passenger footwell was really easy with the help of a coat hanger and some plastic prybars to save my fingernails.

Wireless wouldn't help too much, you'd still need to run a power wire unless you were willing to change the batteries all the time.

Thanks, it was actually pretty easy once I decided where I wanted to put it. Running it across to the passenger footwell was really easy with the help of a coat hanger and some plastic prybars to save my fingernails.

Wireless wouldn't help too much, you'd still need to run a power wire unless you were willing to change the batteries all the time.

Yeah I guess it was a good theory lol As much as I drive Id change batteries once a week..

My 9500ix install is very similar, except instead of wiring it into the Overhead Console, I installed it by separating the Rear View Mirror Housing, which easily separates in the middle at the seam, and tapping into the backside of the 10-Wire Connector Plug inside it, with +12V (Switched off the ignition) on the Brown/Green wire and Ground on the Brown/Black wire.

In case anyone is interested, the Wire I am using is a "Corvette Radar Detector InvisiCord" from Southern Car Parts.

The InvisiCord has pins soldered on the end of the two wires so they can simply be pushed into the back of the wiring harness. It comes in both 8" and 12" lengths, and while I used the 8", I highly recommend the 12" length, as there is literally no slack in my setup with the Radar Detector centered on the windshield below the mirror housing.

That certainly is ambitious and well done. Escort detectors are awesome. I have that escort detector and the cordless one too. I like the corded one better, because of the constant lit display, but also hate the coiled up cord running down the dash. The down side to the cordless one is that it is heavy, won't hang on its window mount very well, and you have to change the batteries every 2-3 weeks.

The one tip I have, which may seem foolish and much, much lazier than yours, ... is to put the detector right on the dash with velcro. No bounce or rattle and lower profile without the window mount. Still works fine.

I am wondering though, Since I won't have my f30 for another few weeks I haven't figured out where to put the detector yet. It looks like the new "pseudo-pop-up" nav screen is right where I would normally attach it.