First change was to lower the clip on the red needle to the third from the bottom position using the 175 main and the 42 pilot as prescribed by the JD instructions for here just north of Dallas, TX. with mixture screw out 1.5 turns. Still flat on top.

I think you're too rich. I run a needle that's pretty close to a JD Red in profile, and my sea level setup is a 165. You won't seize it going lean, it'll just quit running... so try going down a bunch and see what you get.

Fun ride this morning, 50 miles of mostly singletrack before breakfast. I bolted all the spare parts from Dakar together into an operational bike, the motor ran the first half of the race and came in to the rest day with about a cup of coolant after I boiled it in the dunes, again and again.

I was worried... but I should not have been. It's quiet, runs stronger than any other 450 I've had, and my pile of parts is actually a darn good motorcycle! I love these things.

__________________Doubletake Mirrors- Folding D/S mirror that is both useful and indestructible.

__________________Been to Spain, Maine and Spokane. Jumped rope, smoked dope, farted, fucked and fought round the world, twice. Hell, I've even seen goats fuck in the market place, but I've never seen shit like this!

Thanks for the advice. I get lots of popping and cutting out on the top end and on decel. I thought that was a sign of being too lean? I am trying to learn so I am all ears. I have the JD kit installed currently with the 175 main; red needle set with the clip on the 5th position from the top; and the 42 pilot installed with the fuel screw set out about 1.25 turns. The bike has been desmogged with the restrictors taken out of the stock silencer. Maybe I need to re-install the spark screen looking thing?

Thanks for the advice. I get lots of popping and cutting out on the top end and on decel. I thought that was a sign of being too lean? I am trying to learn so I am all ears. I have the JD kit installed currently with the 175 main; red needle set with the clip on the 5th position from the top; and the 42 pilot installed with the fuel screw set out about 1.25 turns. The bike has been desmogged with the restrictors taken out of the stock silencer. Maybe I need to re-install the spark screen looking thing?

You might need to set your float height. Too high, and the bowl will stay too full, and you can be rich throughout the range. Too low, and you can be too lean throughout the range.

__________________
Stobie

Problems cannot be solved at the same level of awareness that created them.

Thanks for the advice. I get lots of popping and cutting out on the top end and on decel. I thought that was a sign of being too lean? I am trying to learn so I am all ears. I have the JD kit installed currently with the 175 main; red needle set with the clip on the 5th position from the top; and the 42 pilot installed with the fuel screw set out about 1.25 turns. The bike has been desmogged with the restrictors taken out of the stock silencer. Maybe I need to re-install the spark screen looking thing?

I may have missed you mentioning this but have you cleaned your air filter?

New air filter installed. I will try it w/o filter next to see if it makes any difference. I am also going to check out the accelerator pump adjustment as well to make sure it is timed right and that the diaphram is installed right. I know that makes a difference in the off idle stumble stuff I have experienced. I have never had issues on my other bikes with this same kit installed in them.

Case in point- I had 2 2009 450 XCWs that were my Dakar bike and source of spares. The first motor always ran better, same carb, same exhaust, same everything. There was a perceptible difference in power and vibration between the two motors.

Point being, I think there's more variability here than always gets credit. Different engines, subtle differences between the carbs, and that's all it takes for things to not be perfect.

__________________Doubletake Mirrors- Folding D/S mirror that is both useful and indestructible.

I did the western half of the TAT on my 08 530 and was all but set to do CDT when jobs got in the way so we have yet to do it. Those that have done it can chime in, but based on my research the CDT is much easier than the TAT and is more jeep trails and forest roads so the 530 would be just fine, assuming you have it set up for long distance rides. I have the Acerbis 6 gal. tank and never ran out of gas while doing the TAT, not that I didn't come close once or twice!

Again from what I have read, lots of the larger DS bikes (BMW GS, KTM Adventure, etc.) do it without too many challenges.

Thanks LoPaca. I was going to do it on my 640 but I am currently having reliability issues with it so my fall back is my trusty steed, the 530. I to have the Acerbis 6 gal tank so gas is not an issue. I am at sea level and pondering whether the fuel / air mixture screw is going to get me through or if I need to adjust my carb settings and do other such things. So any setup advice would be greatly appreciated.

__________________Been to Spain, Maine and Spokane. Jumped rope, smoked dope, farted, fucked and fought round the world, twice. Hell, I've even seen goats fuck in the market place, but I've never seen shit like this!

You might need to set your float height. Too high, and the bowl will stay too full, and you can be rich throughout the range. Too low, and you can be too lean throughout the range.

Definitely check the float height. I had lots of rich-running problems on my '09 450 until I checked the floats, and they were significantly too high from the factory. Set them, and the bike has been great since.

I am running the JD kit similar to yours - red needle, but had to modify it after going to the 520 kit and 41mm carb bore. Now I have a 45 pilot and 185 main. Crazy main jet size, but it works, and my fuel mileage is still almost identical to previous (only a couple mpg less). I found I needed the 185 main as it would starve on the top end and run hot. When my bike was a 450, it always ran well with the 170 main at sea level and the red needle/42 pilot like yours (after setting the floats properly).

Re: popping on decel - I've never been successful at eliminating this with any amount of fiddling until I reinstalled the spark screen. Now it's nice and quiet on overrun.

Ok, it was, until I lost the spark screen. Again. Despite gobs of red loctite. Should have safety-wired it.

Thanks LoPaca. I was going to do it on my 640 but I am currently having reliability issues with it so my fall back is my trusty steed, the 530. I to have the Acerbis 6 gal tank so gas is not an issue. I am at sea level and pondering whether the fuel / air mixture screw is going to get me through or if I need to adjust my carb settings and do other such things. So any setup advice would be greatly appreciated.

I did not have to adjust mine at on our TAT ride and we hit some pretty high peaks. I don't think you have worry about it.

Whats the largest aftermarket tank I can get for the 08 XCR-W that still allows the shrouds to be used? I'm not really digging the shroud attached to the tank minus the graphics but I've seen some 530's on here with larger tanks it seems with the stock shrouds attached to them and it looks nice. Also does anyone use anything other than Motorex oil for their bike with good results? My local shop costs me $85 for 2 bottles and online $75 for 4 liters plus the wait for it get here. I've got NO PROBLEM using what is recommended but if there is something that is slightly cheaper and gets the same protection/smoothness from the clutch and etc. then I'd rather save me some money to help get bigger tanks for my 450 and 650 sooner for an upcoming rally along with top end rebuilds.

Also, can I just bolt up a 530 top end to the 450? Difference between the 530 and 450? Just curious.

Whats the largest aftermarket tank I can get for the 08 XCR-W that still allows the shrouds to be used? I'm not really digging the shroud attached to the tank minus the graphics but I've seen some 530's on here with larger tanks it seems with the stock shrouds attached to them and it looks nice. Also does anyone use anything other than Motorex oil for their bike with good results? My local shop costs me $85 for 2 bottles and online $75 for 4 liters plus the wait for it get here. I've got NO PROBLEM using what is recommended but if there is something that is slightly cheaper and gets the same protection/smoothness from the clutch and etc. then I'd rather save me some money to help get bigger tanks for my 450 and 650 sooner for an upcoming rally along with top end rebuilds.

Also, can I just bolt up a 530 top end to the 450? Difference between the 530 and 450? Just curious.

The Clockwork tank allows you to retain the shrouds, is translucent and has a great shape that carries the fuel low.

Shell Rotella T is a cheap and popular oil that lots of pros swear on.

I don't think you can't bolt on a 530 cylinder, the 450 has a shorter stroke crank. Thumper Racing makes a big bore kit for it however.

I am fortunate that James Dean has the same bike and he is working with me on this issue. The carb will be removed tonight when I get home and I will be checking the floats as well as the accelerator pump (AP) diaphram items. JD mentioned the float level also as well as the AP spacer and o-ring gizmo on the linkage.

The accellerator pump diphram was in pieces. Looked as if it had been partially dissolved. I cleaned little black bits out of the carb and blew everything out. Now to find a replacement part. I read somewhere about installing a #60 "power jet". Don't know if this is needed or not. I have everything back together except for the diaphram. I am hopeful the local shop will have one. My local Honda and Yamaha guys did not have it so I will try a few other shops before ordering.