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Commercial Grades?

My landscaper just installed Rainbird Maxipaws. Some of these were already installed, and I think they work great. When I mentioned that I could get them at a big box store, he told me that that the ones he was installing were "commercial grade," with stronger springs, etc, and they were only available to contractors. What do you think? I haven't been able to find anything on this topic by doing a web search.

Yeah---I guess the smiley says it all! It's not a real problem 'cause the guy did a great job. Guess he just wants to justify the prices he will charge me for the job. I won't kick, but just wanted to know if I needed to worry about this issue when I have to replace them in the future.

Another question: where can I go to learn how these impact sprinkler heads work? I have downloaded the manual from Rainbird, so can adjust them, etc. But I want to know the theory behind how they are working (what the fairly complicated water flow channel is all about, how the "motor" works, etc.) I just don't feel good about things unless I really understand "why"? Any suggestions?

Just because I'm smiling doesn't mean it isn't the truth. As far as I know, it is the truth. I just didn't have time to post this morning because I was headed out to install some 100 dollar impact heads.

As for how they operate..I have no friggin clue.

I have not tested the big box store parts to see if they last longer..but I'm guessing it is true that there are different grades of stuff....

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Heaviside</i>
<br />And you folks call yourselves professionals?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I will second that. Maybe it's endemic to this business. We bought a house with a previously (and professionally) installed system. The original installer was no longer in business. On the recommendation of a landscaper we hired another irrigation "professional" to blow out the system in the fall and start it up and check it in the spring. After his failure to clear the lines completely three autumns ago led to the loss of two (count 'em) backflow preventers, we found someone else who seemed to be and has been more reliable. But last spring, when he told me that two of the old Toro heads needed replacing (as well as the rain switch), I just said "Please do it," and was then shocked by a bill for over $300 for two I20's and one Mini-clik. Until then I was willing to take his advice on what I needed without question. But when I asked for a breakdown and was told the rotors were whatever he was then charging, I went on the web and found that they could be had for 1/5th that.

This spring I needed one head replaced; another three could have been upgraded. But when I asked the tech what the current price was on an I20 he said "$80." I asked if that was installed, and he said "No, that's just for handing you the rotor." I said "You know, that can be had on the web for a good deal less," at which point I got what pretty obviously must be touted as the standard response to this standard inquiry when you guys get together at the "Profession Irrigation Systems Servicers and Installers" convention (or whatever you call it). To wit, when the customer asks whether the PGP from Home Depot isn't just as good, tell 'em "Oh, that's not for the professional version." And as for the "I'm not selling a product I'm selling a service" line, that might make a soupcon of sense if the $80 price were installed; but it isn't. You charge for the installation, take a 700 percent markup on the rotor, and justify it, ..., how? For observing that a rotor with water flooding out needs replacing?

So instead I'll go buy the rotors and do it myself. And if none of you wants to answer a question (see inquiry of 4/26) about what sort of tools or other equipment might be needed -- because, obviously, you don't want to assist anyone infringing on your franchise -- well, I'll just buy the obvious and, as they used to say in the computer business, rtfm. There may be a few tricks to the trade, but installing an I20 in an existing line can't be rocket science. Obviously.

Your inquiry of 4/26 was a request for someone to write a how-to tutorial for you. Expect such posts to go unanswered. If you can't find the information online, then watch the next repairman you hire, and write your own tutorial.

I can't agree with a $80 price for a stainless I-20, but allow me to express my admiration and envy for that repairman's ambition.