Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Right! MikePerez got it, we finally have a big winnah here!

It has been selected for this round because I am crazy about Chanel's fragrances and I like most of the Les Exclusifs (Coromandel and 31, Rue Cambon are certainly the champions), and 28 La Pausa is my personal favorite. Why? Because it is a Chanel that does not smell like a Chanel, because it is an avant-guard (LIB quote!) take on iris and there is none like it around.

Surprisingly, Miss Tao told me last year that it is about the ONLY iris/orris that she is able to discern from the cornucopia of offerings on the market!

Another LIB's guess/intuitive statement is correct: all of the Les Exclusifs and La Pausa is NO exception were created to swim in. I wholeheartedly agree that B is better sprayed than dabbed and it takes a lot of spritzes -- some of them on the clothes -- to make it last.

Please check purplebierd7's review in the Directory and also LIB's notes in Post #110. Both of them combined give you the pyramid -- is it something new here we are trying to undertake? Is there any other site on the Web that has accomplished this?

And, finally, MikePerez, I do agree that there is something Mediterranean about it -- citrus, iris, woods.

La Pausa is not widely loved and, in my never so humble opinion, it deserves better.

I am still posting from the library and I appreciate everybody's interest and support of this thread.

Side notes: Drole de Rose needs to be included in the Directory, it is nice powdery lightweight rose and peony. Haunani, I am impressed by your Keiko Mecheri guess too.

On to C? A big big hint -- it is a total opposite of B! And also somehow connected with our theme.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Hmph! I guess I will be making an appointment with the ENT doctor. I did notice when I wore a goodly amount yesterday it began wafting beautifully. There is a haunting dry/sweetness that was driving me mad & making me want to know what this was!

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

No doctor appointment necessary, I suppose. Sniffatheraphy works wonders, on me and you, I supppose. Also to the first three people who send me their PMs I will send a sample of Polge for Chanel 28 La Pausa, my huge bucket is still 3/4 full and they all come in huge buckets only in case you did not know!

Also I wanted to mention that due to my loss of Internet I met two wonderful women in person -- on the phone! -- Miss Tao and Miss tang. We all know now that we really exist! With Taolady it was sheer pleasure all 42 minutes of conversation -- seems like we had known each other for years, and we could talk more and more and more. No news from our new Internet provider, though, so I have to befriend my library staff and perhaps, bribe them with samples?

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

So, it was 28 La Pausa! How funny - you're never gonna guess how easily I could have solved this: I just got in a full bottle of Sycomore in the mail from Nordstroms a few weeks ago. The SA also threw in lots of samples, and even included a large mini of 28 La Pausa. I was delighted, since this is one of the Exclusif's I have not smelled. I haven't broken into it yet, and it was sitting RIGHT ON MY DESK NEXT TO MY COMPUTER the entire time I was sniffing B. Yes, can you believe it? The solution was literally right in front of me, and here I was going all skeezy because I couldn't figure out what it was.

Wow - it really does NOT smell like a Chanel. I mean, I would have NEVER guessed it was. Which is why I love blind sniffing like this - you learn to drop your preconceived notions about what fragrances should smell like and instead use your nose as a guide (which is what we should do always, right?).

Gosh - I hope C isn't as hard as B. I'll smell it tonight when I get home from the office.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Well, thank goodness, and thank you, mikeperez for solving the second mystery.
Whew. What a relief.
I couldn't find a note pyramid for 28, La Pausa either.
And I really want to know if any of the notes we smelled are represented in its formula. It was so woody to me.

It's possible that we weren't wrong, even though it is billed as an iris soliflore. Chanel seems to love abstraction.

Out of those, I smell the mandarin, rose, patchouli, and tonka.
Plus, I smell spiced peaches--the kind with cloves sticking out of them.
It's pretty much common knowledge that Aldehyde C-14 is in Coco, which is universally recognized as having a peach aroma. So, why doesn't Chanel list peach as a note?

Certainly it would have made Sample B easier to guess if we had known any of the other notes in the pyramid besided iris, because we all tuned in on different aspects of the perfume.

Now, on to Sample C.
First of all, I will say that this is my favorite of the three samples.
It is the only one with noticible color, which is golden.
I enjoy the sweet opening, which I am going to stick my neck out and say is peach, even though it is not very pronounced. Why am I guessing that? Because it is soft and fruity, and I like it, and I'm a big fan of peach.

After the opening wears off, it starts giving off some dry or powdery vibes, similar to Sample B, so I'm going to guess iris. As for other florals, maybe a bit orange blossom.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

I remember it before as very sweet orange mainly. Now it is, are you ready? Heliotrope/Play-doh! The Amaretto is an almond liqueur, so maybe that is causing this smell...? But YIKES!!! I'm starting to freak out here!!!

I haven't checked out 'C' yet. Maybe I'll have a drink & a bath first.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Originally Posted by mikeperez23

So, it was 28 La Pausa! How funny - you're never gonna guess how easily I could have solved this: I just got in a full bottle of Sycomore in the mail from Nordstroms a few weeks ago. The SA also threw in lots of samples, and even included a large mini of 28 La Pausa. I was delighted, since this is one of the Exclusif's I have not smelled. I haven't broken into it yet, and it was sitting RIGHT ON MY DESK NEXT TO MY COMPUTER the entire time I was sniffing B. Yes, can you believe it? The solution was literally right in front of me, and here I was going all skeezy because I couldn't figure out what it was.

Wow - it really does NOT smell like a Chanel. I mean, I would have NEVER guessed it was. Which is why I love blind sniffing like this - you learn to drop your preconceived notions about what fragrances should smell like and instead use your nose as a guide (which is what we should do always, right?).

Gosh - I hope C isn't as hard as B. I'll smell it tonight when I get home from the office.

Congratualtions Mike!!

I guess many of us were close when we were trying to guess #18. I think 28 La Pausa is beautiful. It was my second choice for full bottle purchase after Bel Respiro, until Sycamore was issued. Ah those Chanels are very special.

This is so much fun!!! I can't wait for my turn to sniff this coming summer.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Congratulations Mike! I was also thinking 28 La Pausa, but mostly by default. I don't remember it being terribly woody, but it is an iris scent. So, once Bel Respiro and Sycomore were out, that left 28 as the only dry-ish scent of the Exclusifs.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

OK, on to C:

-- from the first spray, this smelled VERY spicy, powdery & floral to my nose, which I like...it reminds me of a few other fragrances, and it's not too strong. I have a strong feeling that a woman I know (?) wore this scent. Ray loved the way C smelled - he said it was his favorite of the 3 (like purplebird said).
-- I think this is an oriental
-- I smell a bit of fruit at the top but honestly I think I am only mentioning it because purplebird did...my nose really whizzed right past the fruit and honed in on the floral (it's either carnation or iris - or both, isn't it?) and the spicy floral / powdery effect (hyacinths? lilies?). Something smells bread-like (is this the iris?)
-- I'm not sure how's it developing...I think it's not hugely complex, but it aint linear either. I'm gonna have to get back to you on the development.
-- Sillage is average and longevity is above average
-- The juice is a deep brown amber - reminds me of the color of Norell.
-- I smell references in C to Anais Anais by Cacherel and other chypres like the aforementioned Norell (maybe C has galbanum?)

This smells like an American fragrance and yes, purplebird, it does smell kind of '80's'

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black

Does anybody have an official pyramid of La Pausa? Couldn't find it on the net

In my sampling notes, I have these notes listed: Ambrette Seed, Rose, Iris

I don't know where I got them, though, so I'm pretty sure they're not "official". Ambrette seed sounds like an interesting ingredient - it may have been responsible for the fruitiness and nuttiness that some people were reporting. And maybe the pickles? But the wood?!

I was excited about trying it, and disappointed in it when I finally did, a couple of month ago. But you all have inspired me to try it again!

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

I agree that it has an 80ies vibe to it - however, it could be even more vintage....to my nose, head notes are somehow lost....
I think its roots are in the floriental family. It has a very classic construction,it feels familiar and very much so
Yep, there's a fruity note, sweet citrus....mandarin? followed by a heart with a floral bouquet of....rose and jasmine? And a powdery facet also. Edited: yes, purplebird! I think I also smell orange blossom very distinctly now. That's always been powdery to my nose.
Civet, woods and vanilla peeking out...I have not yet reached drydown stage, alas.
I guess that's all for these first 10 minutes of sniffing

Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 20th March 2009 at 07:13 AM.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing aroundI'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Grace note to La Pausa: even the Chanel site doesn't have the pyramid for this. I think the reason the iris note registered so strongly for me is that - when I was a little girl and had a cold and so couldn't have my long golden tresses washed - my Grandmama would use orris root powder to clean my hair. And that breathy pungent smell is what I think of as "iris". And what may come off as ambrette seed. I dunno. B - 28 La Pausa is considered to be niche or designer by Wolfie.

As for C - you guys are nailing the notes right and left!! Think "cuckoo".

"The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering."Lao Tze

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

I just e-mailed my new friend who is a Chanel SA and asked him to find the note pyramid for 28, La Pausa for me. I promise to post the information here, if and when I get it.Kumquat, are you going to be able to find some Escada to test Sample C against?

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

This is not Anais Anais so don't beat yourself up. I have that. AA is Madonna lily - I believe, very diff. from this.

There is a cool 'blue' flower prominent which could be the hyacinth listed in Escada. From; John Oakes Book of Perfumes
Notes: Orange Blossom, Hyacinth, Ylang Ylang, Peach, Plum, Bergamot, Sandalwood,Coconut, Vanilla

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Oh dear. I can't for the sake of me think this is something from the Escada line-up...beware, I have nothing against them, but Sample C doesn't feel as if it belonged there.
I'll re-apply as soon as I get home.

Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 20th March 2009 at 03:33 PM.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing aroundI'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

LIB, I agree with your assessment, and here is why:
Although Sample C is nowhere near the powerhouse of a fragrance that is 24, Fauboug (a personal faavorite of mine) it shares some common characteristics, which explains why I like Sample C the best.
In both, I smell something peachy, orange blossom, a floral like hyacinth (or lilly), orris, and an ambery base.
24, Faubourg has a strong presence of jasmine, so I might have to look harder for that note in the sample.
Like I said, the Hermes perfume is way more distinctive; its notes stand out clearly and it projects boldly, whereas our sample is soft and blended. They do not smell "alike" but they share some overlap.
As far as my 80s comment goes, the first time I sniffed 24, Faubourg, I thought it came from the 60s, in the vein of Woodhue, when Coty was top-notch. So, there I agree, too, that both of these fragrances have a nostalgic feel to them.Floriental probably describes the olfactive family best, because I would call Sample C a spicy, powdery floral, although some floral chypres come pretty close to smelling the same way. Does anyone smell patchouli or oakmoss?
Is this niche or designer?

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

P-bird, I think it is supposed to be the designer fragrance. And I do smell oakmoss too (didn't want to say it because I already listed a truckload of notes I smell ), but very subdued, not like in a traditional chypre. However, it could also be a hefty dose of ylang ylang. I tend to mix them up in certain scents....
24, Faubourg is more floral and yes, more clear to my nose. Sample C is rather full-bodied, darker, deeper and more animalic.

Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 20th March 2009 at 08:36 PM.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing aroundI'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Gosh, yes. It doesn't smell the same as the Hermes. I'm just digging for some comparisons here. And I don't have many samples on hand to compare it to. At the department store, the only one I could find that resembled it was Oscar de La Renta.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

I get the chypre reference only from the initial blast of top notes (not moss...but that phantom chypre vibe) and then it mostly becomes a floral oriental, because of the spicy aura it creates on my skin.

I'm getting a little L'Heure Bleue comparison this time. You know the way that the orange blossom 'deadens' as it dries down in LHB - that effect! Chilly florals. And again, that bread like carnation or iris or lily note. Love that.

I think it's the aldehyde that peeks its head here-and-there, that is making us think this is an 80's fragrance.

This does NOT smell niche.

It smells like whoever did this scent, intended women to wear this scent as a half day / half nightime kind of scent. You know the kind that you could wear to work, and then easily transition to an evening out with ease. Do you ladies agree?

I don't think it's Escada because I smell absolutely NO coconut in this, and usually my nose can detect coconut very deftly.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Originally Posted by Taolady

when I was a little girl and had a cold and so couldn't have my long golden tresses washed - my Grandmama would use orris root powder to clean my hair. And that breathy pungent smell is what I think of as "iris".

I agree that it has an 80ies vibe to it - however, it could be even more vintage....to my nose, head notes are somehow lost....
I think its roots are in the floriental family. It has a very classic construction,it feels familiar and very much so
Yep, there's a fruity note, sweet citrus....mandarin? followed by a heart with a floral bouquet of....rose and jasmine? And a powdery facet also. Edited: yes, purplebird! I think I also smell orange blossom very distinctly now. That's always been powdery to my nose.
Civet, woods and vanilla peeking out...

I have no guesses. The only fragrances with civet that I have sampled that I *know* have civet are Jicky EdT and La Via del Profumo's Mona Lisa. And neither have an "80's vibe" to me. (What is an 80's vibe? Power-fragrance?)

Last edited by Aiona; 21st March 2009 at 04:45 AM.

"Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Not Fracas, not Baghari, not Valentino Vendetta Donna - nor Krizia, which came in via pm.

Am off to work for the day and don't know if Wolfie will have access to her Library 'puter...another hint: this is tres vintage, and is discontinued. The designer/house had it's own tribute thread here a while back......

"The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering."Lao Tze

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Krizia I have, it's not that. I was thinking partly of the name Vendetta, there is the cool blue flower (which stands out to me very distinctly apart from the orange-blossom amber background) with the floriental construction, and I don't see any designer frags named "Pyscho-nut-job" although Britney Spears crew should be working on it.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Mikeperez I think it is a good multi-purpose scent, light and dry enough for work but sweet, rich, and full enough for evening. I love perfumes like that.Aiona when I say 80s scent, I mean before the apologetic 90s when everything started smelling clean and watery, like wearing nothing at all or having just stepped out of the shower. The 80s were a time when women wanted to say, "I'm wearing perfume, and this is the name of the perfume I am wearing." They were distinct, and they contained rich, deep ingredients.

Tribute thread? There was one on Balenciaga, but none of their discontinued pefumes seem to fit this sample.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Could it be one of the Patous?
It wasn't exactly a tribute thread I started but based on some of the descriptions so far C could be a Patou.
Also this makes Lady_in_Black's observation of oakmoss more likely because it is vintage.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Glad you are still sniffing and guessing guys!

All right, here is what is correct:
1) Floriental, vintage, redone in the 80-s.
2) Tribute thread! One of them scents that Ms.purplebird7 can't sniff in the radius of 100 miles. I may be without the Internet, but I did my homework back in February.
3) Strong connection with L'Heure Bleue. MikePerez.
4) Patou! SMM
5) Divine Folie. Meine liebe LIB!

We are done! It was fast, although I thought it would be more difficult than A and B combined.

Love you all, Sundays the library is closed, so see your all's reactions on Monday!

Why do you think I included it in this round? (besides the fact that it is a pity that not many people know and enjoy it)? Not just because it has a word "crazy" in its title, I promise!

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Wow! You guys are awesome! I've been reading the whole thread as it unfolded, and must admit, your noses are good. VERY GOOD! The only one I would have gotten was the Chanel! And BTW, on a recent visit to the local CVS, could'nt help but check out "A" - 'Fireworks' - I got pineapple too!!! My hat's off to you all

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Rats!! Very sneaky Twolf. I would never think of Patou as a 'Designer', he's so much more than that. Divine Folie is one I never spent much time on. I just thought it was too 'girly girl' & 'party frocky', but after thinking about every specific note & how it is so carefully layered, it makes me appreciate the artistry there. It's still maybe not a primary go-to frag for me, but certainly worth having a decant and an occasional sniffa. Like reading a real bodice ripper now & again!

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Gadzooks! LIB. You won. Two out of three. Mikeperez got one. I got...zero. Buy hey, I got some notes right!Divine Folie: Bergamot, Orange-blossom, Neroli, Ylang Ylang, Iris, Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla. By Jean-claude Ellena
We got the orange blossom and iris. There truly was a jasmine note. And the vanilla masqueraded as an ambery base.
Plus we nailed the 80s aspect.
Great job, people, and I appreciate the fabulous teamwork. I enjoyed the way we bounced ideas off each other. That was fun.Thanks Twolf for a fine Round No. One.
P.S. If I find the notes for 28, La Pausa, I will still post them here.

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

This whole process is fascinating. Congrats to all!

I have a question for all of you... I know there have been some discussions about this, but I alway thought of Chanel as being a designer line (same with Hermes, Bulgari, Caron, etc.). What is it that makes some consider Chanel a "niche" line? Because it's "exclusive"?

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

Great team job, sniffers!!! Yes, blind sniffing is fun, it really makes you concentrate on the scent and on its notes, on its effect, on the imagery it conjures up.
Thanks TWolf!!

Haunani, some traditional designers also have "exclusive" lines which are considered niche by all means. So you could say they're designer and niche at the same time. Examples are, besides Chanel, Hermès (the Hermèssences), Tom Ford (Private Blend), Prada (the exclusives) etc.

As a last thing, could TWolf have chosen Divine Folie not only for its name but also because of the paralellism but also the rivalry between the houses of Patou and Chanel?

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing aroundI'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

I didn't get to read this thread for a day or two, and it's all solved - that was quick!
Congrats, LiB!

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Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff Round 1 "Cuckoo for Coco"

The pleasure was all mine, sir (bowing right back) - it was nice having you and purplebird as co-sniffers! Purplebird and I are quite acquainted to each other's nose alikeness and difference, since we had fun in the note identification project.

Informing my blind sniffers for Round 2, Lian, Ubuandibeme and Veuve Amiot that their packages were mailed out this morning....the theme will be unveiled soon ....

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing aroundI'll stop wearing black when they make something darker