Yes, Veggie Burgers Can Taste Good

Veggie burgers have suffered a seriously bad reputation in the past. And with good reason: They’re far too-often frozen hockey pucks of stabilizers and fillers (maybe a corn kernel or two, if you’re lucky). That’s a shame, because when they’re done right veggie burgers exemplify all of the things we love. Think about it: The best meatless burgers have chewy, hearty grains, a meaty (in texture, if not taste) note from mushrooms, and, duh, colorful, fresh vegetables. Sounds like the making of an incredible meal to us.

So we were psyched when, inspired by writer Rosie Schapp‘s love of a good veggie burger, our test kitchen created one from scratch. This version is exactly what we’re talking about: Chewy, hearty, and filling without trying to be something it’s not. We talked with Bon Appétit senior food editor Dawn Perry about the test kitchen’s recipe creation process—and how they created what we’re pretty sure is the ultimate veggie burger.

First up, the classic vegetarian burger needed a flavor overhaul. “Packaged veggie burgers don’t taste like meat, and they don’t taste like veggies,” says Perry. “It tastes so processed. What’s the point? We wanted to make a veggie burger with real ingredients.”

The veggie burger of our dreams also needed a textural makeover because, as Perry points out, a totally uniform consistency is boring. The big workhorse here is found in chewy, nutty wheat berries—if you want to experiment with another grain, definitely keep the focus on a hearty one, like farro or barley. Chickpeas also add texture, as well as bulk. Using canned beans is fine, and cuts down on cooking time.

It’s not a veggie burger without vegetables, and for that Perry folds in finely grated carrots after everything else is combined. This gives the patty some good texture, but anything larger than fine shavings will be like eating raw baby carrots stuck in your burger.

Perry finished the number with sharp Cheddar cheese, avocado, sprouts, and tomato. While you can definitely tweak the toppings to your heart’s desire, keep the focus on soft, delicate ingredients (that goes double for the bun). Anything too hefty, like a baguette, will overwhelm the tender patty. Says Perry, “There’s nothing worse than a structurally unsound burger—veggie or not.” Which reminds us of our favorite part about this recipe: It isn’t just a delicious veggie burger—it’s a great burger, period.