What model valve is it? Sometimes it's easier to replace the valve. Sometimes it just needs a new diaphragm. Depends how it's installed and what model valve it is. If you don't know, go to www.tinypic.com, upload a pic of the valve then cut and paste the "forum" code to your post.

Are the sprinklers attached to ells? like marlex ells or street ells? Maybe there's debris in the line or ells. Maybe the springs in those sprinklers are too strong. Try some PGJ's or sprinklers without checks.

When you have low pressure can you go out to the heads and pull them up to seal the heads giving them full pressure? Also, "RainBird" is a brand, not a type of sprinkler head. I still think the heads might be the problem. They aren't sealing so they can't pop up, then when the second zone shuts off it sends a little water hammer down the line popping them up the rest of the way and they seal. You have a brand new valve, the problem must be down the line somewhere.

If you have a master valve, you can trace the wire right to the valve using a wire locator. The back flow's probably in a box right next to it. Maybe call around and find a guy who has experience using a locator. You obviously need a different guy to look. Do you have a basement? If so look down there. Your yard sounds like a nightmare being all rock. Filling a trench with rock on top of a sprinkler line can damage it. Check your toilets and make sure one's not constantly running. Check everythi...

You could put a plug in the hole instead of a riser with a cap. It would be flush with the fitting. Isn't there an adjusting screw on top of the sprinkler where you can turn it off? I've never thought to do this before but you could take the nozzle off, plug it up somehow, use a paper towel or something, then screw the nozzle back on. I know that's jerry rigging but it would do what you're asking.

Hi, That's a 2711DPR. Just buy the whole valve then harvest the parts. If it was me I'd replace the whole thing with a 2711APR. But the simplest fix is harvesting a DPR. Go to Ewing or Site One or John Deere. Look for an irrigation supply store.

Are you saying that water's coming out of the cap? Like back flow? I'm asking because you want to put a check valve "before" the valve. Are you suspecting that the main's losing pressure? I'm not even sure why a small amount of drainage is a problem. Are two valves doing it at the same time? Or one at a time? Is there a master valve? Maybe I'm making this too complicated. But a tad of back flow shouldn't be a problem. Maybe the sprinklers are forcing the water backwards when they go down because...

Quoted from "JAIDC" Also, it is possible for some of the nozzles (like towards the end of the line/farthest from the valve, to be partially or fully clogged. This is very typical when soil/debris has intruded into the piping and worked its way downstream to the farther hydrants and clogged them if the nozzles orifice is small or partially closed due to age or initial clogging. So you're saying that clogged nozzles will keep the heads from popping up?

If you go with the newer "no module" Pro-C or better known as the PCC, then make sure the wires are long enough to reach the terminals. A pro would know this. If there's plenty of play in the wires then it's your call. The PCC would cost less.

blah blah blah another forum blah. I'm not concerned wth other forums. I'm only concerned with his question at THIS forum. He wanted to know what valve to buy at Lowes. You just can't leave well enough alone. Don't answer people's questions from other forums here at Sprinkler Talk. Answer Sprinkler Talk questions only please. You're intentionally confusing the issue.

The only time I've seen one of those installed they guy had it at the end of his dripline. He said it keeps the emitters from getting clogged cause the water zips by the emitters when the zone is first activated. I never gave it any thought after that. I don't live in an area where people drain their lines for winter. Someone else will have to chime in on this.

That's a Rainbird EV100 very similar to the HR1. The parts are interchangeable. In your picture you've cut the pipe already. You may as well replace the valve. Here's the valve at Lowe's you want. Hunter Valve. Yep, 24 volt.

You're turning them down too low. Nozzles are designed to be turned down a max of 20%. So if you have 15 foot nozzles and you're trying to spray them 8 feet, it's not going to work. They'll do exactly as you described. Brass nozzles can be adjusted down low and stay put but plastic doesn't work well. You need to buy new nozzles. They come in various distances. 17, 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4. Depends on the brand.

Check and see if the noise is coming from the pressure reducer. You might need a different brand. I like Rainbird's combo filter and pressure reducer. Filter Shop around for a better price. 14 bucks tops. I don't get hum out of them like some other brands.

That looks like it broke off of a Champion valve adapter. What kind of valves do you have in your yard? Maybe take a pic. It holds the seat washer on so eventually the valve will fail or maybe it's been replaced already because once that part breaks off the valve will have problems. It might get stuck on or it might sound like it wants to come on but it's not. The good news is the part got stuck in a faucet and not the valves. That means the hose bib might be at the end of the line so you can fl...