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Topic: Leaking clutch fluid... (Read 7327 times)

Doesn't look like a difficult seal to fix. I believe that the slave pushes out when you pull the clutch....if so, When you remove the slave, hold it away from your bike, push in the slave manually (if you don't you can ruin the slave...did this on a different bike ), then pull your clutch lever. The slave should push out without ejecting fluid. If so your slave is likely good.

Zoom- Not sure what you mean by push in the slave manually. How do I do that? As far as liquid goes, I'm not so sure there's any left in my bike.

Doesn't look like a difficult seal to fix. I believe that the slave pushes out when you pull the clutch....if so, When you remove the slave, hold it away from your bike, push in the slave manually (if you don't you can ruin the slave...did this on a different bike ), then pull your clutch lever. The slave should push out without ejecting fluid. If so your slave is likely good.

Zoom- Not sure what you mean by push in the slave manually. How do I do that? As far as liquid goes, I'm not so sure there's any left in my bike.

I wrecked a different type of clutch slave (puller type) on the wife's xs when I did the hydraulic clutch conversion. basically it pulled all the way in without anything to pull it back out (spring) so I pulled the clutch lever again and popped the seals in it. I should have manually pulled it out before pulling the clutch again. On the raider clutch slave it looks opposite to that. like when the bike is running and the clutch lever released the clutch mech pushes the slave back in for you. So if you removed it and pulled the clutch it would push out. But if it was already pushed out on removal, there would be nothing to push it back in again. Not sure but if you pulled the clutch again to build more pressure it could pop the slave seals.

I almost bought that one on ebay since it looks like it wouldn't be hard to add to an xs side cover. Forgot to bid though. I think the odds of this one being bad are pretty slim since it came from a wreck.

How am I able to determine if the cylinder body is okay to continue using?

The seal is what is leaking for the most part. What happens is wear and even in Arizona a chilly night will cause them to shrink back and cause leakage and problems. Replace the boot as well because the brake fluid has touched it. It's not designed to hold brake fluid so it will get mushy and won't have the power to keep the road crud out of the crucial parts.

Look inside the cylinder for scratches or pits. You might find some dirt in there also. If you don't have a hone that size some emery cloth will clean it up for you.

Treat the process of removal, repair and bleeding as you would if working on automotive brakes or clutches. Be careful of the fluid, it's corrosive maybe. These days eveything is soooo PC so it might be insect friendly.

How am I able to determine if the cylinder body is okay to continue using?

The seal is what is leaking for the most part. What happens is wear and even in Arizona a chilly night will cause them to shrink back and cause leakage and problems. Replace the boot as well because the brake fluid has touched it. It's not designed to hold brake fluid so it will get mushy and won't have the power to keep the road crud out of the crucial parts.

Look inside the cylinder for scratches or pits. You might find some dirt in there also. If you don't have a hone that size some emery cloth will clean it up for you.

Treat the process of removal, repair and bleeding as you would if working on automotive brakes or clutches. Be careful of the fluid, it's corrosive maybe. These days eveything is soooo PC so it might be insect friendly.

I was wondering if I needed to replace the boot.

So if I were to pop this thing loose and decided I did not feel comfortable messing with it, it shouldn't cost me any extra for the dealer to replace it, right? I can't see why it would.

How am I able to determine if the cylinder body is okay to continue using?

The seal is what is leaking for the most part. What happens is wear and even in Arizona a chilly night will cause them to shrink back and cause leakage and problems. Replace the boot as well because the brake fluid has touched it. It's not designed to hold brake fluid so it will get mushy and won't have the power to keep the road crud out of the crucial parts.

Look inside the cylinder for scratches or pits. You might find some dirt in there also. If you don't have a hone that size some emery cloth will clean it up for you.

Treat the process of removal, repair and bleeding as you would if working on automotive brakes or clutches. Be careful of the fluid, it's corrosive maybe. These days eveything is soooo PC so it might be insect friendly.

I was wondering if I needed to replace the boot.

So if I were to pop this thing loose and decided I did not feel comfortable messing with it, it shouldn't cost me any extra for the dealer to replace it, right? I can't see why it would.

I'm sure you'll be surprised when you get it off and open. It's simple stuff that even a cave man can do it.The dealer sure can't charge you for the R&R so that's a cost saving there. They may not have the repair parts and might even have to order a new cylinder.

I bet it's easier rebuilding the cylinder than it is removing the tail light assembly or the freaking turn signal flasher!

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