Hello again, sorry not been able to reply to the last few posts. I did the upgrade before I had ever done the binding. As I said, the display screen that shows bars moving in relation to the stick and switch movement shows all 10 channels, as opposed to it's original display of only 6, but using the switches, which I have allocated to the new channels, causes no reaction whatsoever. I bound the receiver(10 channel) and a servo plugged into each channel in turn only reacted to channels 1 to 6. I have followed the various YouTube videos, (some are better than others), and cannot see that I have done anything wrong, but I will have another go in a day or two. Fingers crossed, or stick with 6 channels. Chris

Thanks folks. I have assigned the various switches to their own channels, which is where the problems start, as, although allocated, the new channels are all "dead". Everything in the upgrade seems to have worked, except the lack of action when the switches are thrown. I still only have the original 6 channels. The display screen, which shows bars moving left or right from a central point, has changed from 6 to 10, and as I mentioned above, the switches can all be assigned to channels, but on the display screen nothing happens when the switches are operated, and a servo connected to the receiver on any one of the new channels remains inactive.

Youtube has several posts about upgrading the Turnigy i6 firmware(or the Flysky i6) from 6 to 10 channels. All very easy and I have done it, but it has gone wrong somewhere. Everything has changed that should change except for one small part of the upgrade- the 4 extra channels do not work! The screen information shows they exist and the firmware shows that it has been updated. Has anyone on this forum done this upgrade? If so, any ideas where I have gone wrong. I have reverted to the factory settings twice and still can't get it sorted, and it seems such a simple thing to do. Frustrated. Chris

I would have thought that, every thing else being the same, 2 rudders will probably, maybe, give twice the turning effort, possibly. Does the position of the rudder(s) in relation to the thrust of the prop affect the effectiveness of the rudder though? A single rudder immediately behind the centre line of the prop will have the max air flow at the top and bottom of the rudder blade, so presumably behaves differently to twin rudders on either side of the centre line where the max thrust would be in the central part of the blade. (I think!) The other option is of course suck it and see, and change it if needed. Hard to believe I know, but I am not an aerodynamicist! Chris

Thanks for the input. Sorry to have started a bit off a heated discussion. My charger was behaving somewhat differently to what I expected, having already watched many You Tube videos, But at the end of the day all is well now, mainly due the fact that my original power supply was a bit too wimpy and has been replaced by one with the required output. My batteries have now been storage charged and ready for action and a full charge at a future date. All I need now is a boat to put them in. Chris

I am new to this lipo stuff and have a query about the storage charge. I have a SkyRC Imax B6 charger (a genuine one) and 2 x 2S 2200mAh batteries. On the display screen of the charger, before charging has been started, in the storage mode, it says 7.4V. When I press enter it charges the battery up to 7.6 volts. Is this correct? Electricary confuses me enough without this sort of thing! Chris

Hi all, I read somewhere recently that the connectors on a brushless motor should not be changed(presumably by cutting off the existing ones and therefore shortening the cables), or was it refering to the cables from the ESC? Anyone got any comments on whether this is correct, or otherwise. I wish I could remember where I saw it. I have only just ventured into the world of brushless and don't want to fall at the first hurdle, which in my case is a motor and ESC with different sized connectors. Chris

I bought the tin of Coleman's fuel for my camping stove(Coleman did camping stoves once, not sure if they still do). Has been on my shelf for quite a few years now so no wonder the UN number is out of date. Onetenor, was there supposed to be a link in your last post? Chris

Hi Neil,not sure what you mean about reversing. The steering in reverse is ok but nothing to write about, and with tank steering it seems to be much better on the port motor than the starboard one. Possible to do with water turbulence, but not really looked at it long enough to figure it out. My transducer or resonator also came from sound imports, and I had the same delivery experience as Dave. Chris

I have several motors that all look very nearly the same. One I know is a Graupner Speed 600 which is 8.4v but of the other 2, one is said to be 12v(was working with an 11.1 lipo) and the other one is unknown. It has a built in cooling impeller so probably came from an electric tool of some sort. Neither of these 2 have any markings or labels. Is there any way that I can test them for their normal working voltages without endangering them? Chris

I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

I have a Dragonforce 65, but not the latest version, and a Ragazza. The df65 is only 650mm so does not comply to IOM rules I would think, and from other forums, neither does the Ragazza, in spite of what it might say on the box. Not too sure of the Ragazza's failings with out finding the other forum but I think it is length of mast for a start. Chris

I had a reply from HMRC stating that a change in the regs a few years ago allowed the production of meths without the purple dye. This is apparently CDA - Completely Denatured Alcohol. I contacted Bonneymans, the only UK supplier of this type of stuff that I can find, and they said that they had never heard of it, even after I had advised them of the HMRC advice. I replied to HMRC, as they had asked where/who I had been advised to use DNA, and I also told them of the lack of a supplier of CDA. Their reply was that they would not provide me with authority to buy DNA because I only needed a small amount, and CDA was adequate for my purpose. My interpretation of the rules was that small users, such as myself, did not need the authority anyway, but Bonneyman's seem to want this in writing. So in the end it looks like I will have to use purple meths. Oh dear. Chris

Thanks a lot. Plenty of info there to ponder on. All very interesting. It's amazing what this forum comes up with when someone asks a question. If I used vinyl logos do I still need to varnish over them as I would a water slide transfer? Thanks again Chris

Hi there, for my current build I am toying with the idea of some fancy multi coloured, written logos along the sides, and on the transom. These will be to my own design once I can find a suitable multi coloured font. Any ideas how I would then create these and get them onto the model? I can only think of just printing them off and sticking them on the boat, but I can see that being a disaster. I don't think it will be too much of a problem designing them but after that I am floundering. Chris

Thanks Doug. The gear you refer to is actually just part of the prop shaft universal joint which I hadn't taken off. What about the impeller visible in some of the pics through the hole in the casing and the slightly different front bearing?Does this signify a difference between that motor and the other two? Chris

Right, I hope this works! The can length is 57mm,can diameter is 35.7mm and the shaft diameter is 3.18mm. Photos are attached,fingers crossed.the motor with the impeller,if that is what it is, also has a bronze(?) front bearing, different to the other two. In one of the photos of one of the terminals there is a small wire coming out from the inside, matched by a similar wire on the other terminal. Does this signify that there are internal capacitors fitted? What does the small red plastic thing on the rear signify? Chris

I have 3 apparently identical brushed motors. One I bought new, one came in a model and one was given. The one I bought recently is a Graupner Speed 600, but neither of the others have labels on them, although everything else is 99.99% the same as the new one. The only obvious difference that I can see is that one of the older ones appears to have an impeller in it so that the commutator is not very visible. Am I to assume that this might be another version of the Speed 600, that needs to be cooled a bit more than a standard one? Anyone know? Chris

I apologise if this has already been covered here but I am now at the point of installing the motor in my new model. The motor is a Graupner speed 600, and the specs are : Nominal voltage 8.4 V Operating voltage range 4.8-9,6 V No-load rpm 15500 No-load current drain 1.8 A Current drain at max. efficiency 11 A Current drain when stalled 70 A Max. efficiency without gearbox 75 % If I use 8.4 volts what size wiring do I need? Do I need to cater for the 70A current or the 11A current, or somewhere in between, with a fuse? Sorry to be a bit dim on this but I am confused (with most things these days!) Chris

Oh dear, I can't imagine anything more inconvenient than having a disabled index finger! It gets used for most things. Are you a lefty like me or right handed? Still a problem whichever. And I thought I had a problem last week with a modelling knife in my foot! Get well soon Colin.