The first Lueur jewelry show.

January 15, 2016

I recently had the wonderful opportunity to attend the first occurrence of Lueur NY, a new antique jewelry show from the renowned U.S. Antique Shows group. The Lueur jewelry show is remarkable in several ways, first and foremost because it features only jewelry.

Only jewelry!

The Lueur jewelry show was held in the Javitz convention center, in a room I’d never seen before – smaller and more private than the main event space. It was my understanding that this was the first time U.S. Antique Shows had held an antique jewelry show in this space, and some of the dealers and attendees I chatted with weren’t all delighted with the venue.

I heard rumors of difficulty with the setup logistics, and also with overzealous door security. I personally was searched every time I came back from the bathroom and was nearly denied entry twice. Thankfully, staff from the show office were called in both times and they vouched for me.

However, any new show will have kinks to work out, and the treasures on display more than made up for any inconvenience. The lighting was also better for photography than it sometimes is at these shows, and the aisles between booths were nice and wide.

It was an interesting mix of dealers, including several I’d never seen. I saw more vintage and estate pieces on display than I normally see at such events, as opposed to just antique jewelry. And oh my goodness, were there some exceptional pieces around.

I started by visiting the lovely Jane of Prather Beeland, whose beautifully displayed wares are always a delight. The opal ring above – which began life as a brooch, and has been expertly converted into a ring – pretty much blew my mind.

She showed me these two Georgian sepia mourning rings. The motif on the left suggests the ring was in commemoration of a spouse, while the “nipt in the bud” motif showing a broken rosebud was typically used in memory of a child. Both pieces were in exquisite condition.

A pair of perfect Art Deco sapphire and diamond earrings at Rod Billing’s booth. They have an almost Art Nouveau feel, with those curving lines. But the colors are all Deco.

Isn’t there something so charming about this Victorian locket? A fly with diamond snowdrops or lily-of-the-valley, I believe. I love the Greek key embellishment at the top.

The Lueur jewelry show was also the first time I actually had the exceptional honor of trying on an antique tiara. I hope to repeat the experience as many times as possible.

When I spotted it at the Michael Longmore booth, I approached and said something wonderfully articulate like: “I was wondering if – and if it’s too much trouble, please say no – but I was hoping…”

At this point the very kind woman behind the booth put me out of my misery by gently interrupting: “The tiara? Of course.”

And then she handed it over.

I believe I was told that this beautiful thing is of Turkish provenance, but to be honest I was a little overcome by being in its presence.

They also let me play with this subtle little Georgian diamond cluster ring. Serious firepower.

This extremely cool Georgian ring was at Michael Longmore as well. It’s like a tiny, precious diorama – there’s a 3-dimensional gold, diamond, and pearl sculpture inside of a classical-style temple with a burning flame in the middle. I thought there might be some hair at the bottom of the design, too.

Also seen at Spicer Warin: this antique pendant. The colors of the enamel with the pink topaz slay me.

And this glamorous Art Deco pearl and diamond sautoir, which Daisy Buchanan would have cheerfully run someone over to get her hands on.

Let’s not forget this magnificent lavalier. The Leuer jewelry show was the first time I’d encountered Spicer Warin, but I fervently hope it won’t be the last. Such stunning pieces.

Despite all of those glorious necklaces from Spicer Warin AND the tiara from Micheal Longmore, my favorite piece of the show was one I saw at Lowther Antiques.

This museum-quality Georgian pansy stunner had just emerged from owner Pat Novissimo’s personal collection. There’s no way to explain the perfection of these pristine foil-set gems. The piece glows. Especially when worn. Sigh.

A classic pair of antique Portuguese chrysoberyl earrings. Also at Lowther Antiques. I flipped one over, because I thought the attention to detail on the closed back of the silver setting was really cool, too.

This Art Deco bracelet – which fabulous shows two diamond dragons with ruby tongues and emerald eyes, facing each other across three large diamonds – is one I’ve met before.

It’s incredibly difficult to photograph, but I did my best. It’s just too amazing to not show you, even if the photo could be better. Spotted at Pat Saling.

This funny looking little guy is a truly exceptional example of a Georgian carnival mask ring. It caught my eye at Spicer Warin and my jaw dropped. Look at the details of his nose! Amazing.

So here I am, wearing two enormous antique diamond snakes. This was amazing. I met these two badasses at Mario’s Antiques, where the owner’s niece kindly let me walk them over to a patch of better lighting in the corner of the room. The necklace is turn-of-the-century, the bracelet is older.

The bracelet is also amazing. Chunky diamonds, emerald eyes. Sigh.

Mario’s is also where I encountered this show-stopper of an Art Deco ring. Look at the perfection of those emerald and sapphire accents.

Speaking of Art Deco perfection…I’d seen this Mauboussin emerald, diamond, and onyx bracelet online, but that paled before seeing it in person at Jogani’s booth. Such a glorious juxtaposition of colors and shapes.

This beauty, also at Jogani, is an original Art Deco setting with coral and onyx, which Jogani has revitalized with a 2.4 carat fancy brownish orangey yellow diamond. So bold and interesting.

One of my favorite sightings of the day was this incomparable antique parure from Keymour – a hair comb, necklace, pendant, earrings, and matched bracelets in utterly perfect cannetille gold with garnets. Swoon, swoon, swoon.

A closer look. Can you even believe the detail of that gold? It’s mind-boggling.

And now for something completely different: how boldy fabulous is this retro charm bracelet by Tiffany & Co.? It has such presence to it. Also from Keyamour.

The very last piece I saw at the show – because I sat down with it and refused to move for 20 minutes – was this diamond ring from Jogani. It’s an antique, with filigree embellishment in the setting, and the pear-cut diamond is around 5 carats.

I would Do Things for this ring.

Siiiiigh. I’ll see you in my dreams, you voluptuous diamond temptress.

I hope you enjoyed revisiting the treasures of the Leuer jewelry show with me! I really did have a wonderful time – I saw so many beauties that I had to spill a lot of them over to Instagram, in hopes of keeping this post a somewhat reasonable length.

I had hoped to show you these treasures slightly sooner, but the holiday season snuck up on me, as it tends to do. No matter – we can look at them now, and they can brighten this mid-January Friday.

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Comments

Becky, I really enjoyed this post as we don’t seem to have any decent antique jewelry shows in the Chicago area. I loved every single piece you showed us! Thanks for sharing your day at the show!
Lisa from suzystimelesstreasures on Instagram

It was my pleasure, Lisa! I feel you on living in a show desert – there’s really only one great one near where I live (in DC). Thankfully, NYC is just a bus ride away for me. This one was definitely worth the trip.

Great photos! That pansy necklace……!!!! Just amazing!
So the Lueur show is one anyone can attend? I think i would be so overwhelmed if i attended!! But in a really good way!
Thanks for posting
susansthings on Instagram

Thanks so much, Susan! You’re correct – Lueur is an open show, and anyone can attend. It can definitely be a little overwhelming…but that’s when I would take a minute to go sit in a corner and bask in the glory of the jewelry all around me.

Becky, thank you for posting your video of the Georgian pansy necklace. I’ve seen individual foil-backed colored stones before, but never so many together. And I’d always wondered why that was done; was it to enhance not-so-well-cut stones, stones with big windows and/or big bellies beneath the girdle? Maybe so, but I can see in your video that the foil-backing probably makes/made these pieces look even more beautiful in candlelight, in the lighting conditions of the past. The foil certainly helps throw back more light and color. Any insights on this?

It’s my pleasure! That’s one of my very favorite pieces I’ve seen anywhere, ever. And your suspicious about foil-backed stones are exactly correct: it was also just the style at that point in time, but it was because the antique style of stone cuts were less shiny and also since jewelry was made close-backed (not open behind the stone) back then, they liked to have something shiny back there instead of something that could potentially reduce the piece’s brilliance (like tarnished silver).

“Swoon” is right! So many beautiful pieces, and I just love antique jewelry. I think the chrysoberyl earrings are very unusual, with just chrysoberyl stones in them. Those are some serious shoulder-dusters. My favorite is the pearl sautoir – I neeeed that!

Hi! I really enjoyed your posting and your photographs are quite good for the conditions that you get at the venue! I did notice on many of the pieces that the facets have become worn and could use a re-polish (I am a facetor). But I am thinking maybe since these are antiques, that one does not repolish? So many of the garnets especially would have so much color if they were repolished. Your comments are requested on this. Keep up the great work!

I’m glad you enjoy my photos! The question of re-polishing and restoring antiques is a very individual one: some collectors like them to be polished up like new, others feel very strongly about preserving the evidence of age as a matter of authenticity. Because of that, it’s typical for dealers to leave the signs of age on the pieces so that the buyer can either restore the piece or leave it as it is according to their own preferences.

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[…] This item was listed in Sotheby’s December 2011 auction. All images and info are thanks to Sotheby’s. *** Fun fact: I got to try this bracelet on in person, completely by coincidence, almost exactly three years later!! See it here. […]