Check at the fan connector for power between the pins of the harness side of the connector. Do this with the AC selected on and the engine running. Disconnect the fan connector before you start the engine

If you do not have power there move to the relay box under the hood. and pull relay #12. Plug the fan connector in and use a large paperclip to jump between pin socket #30 and #87 (they are numbered on the bottom of the relay) Turn the key to the run position and let me know if the fan runs

If the fan does run use the paperclip in pin socket #86 and run your testlight from there to ground at the battery. If the test light shows power with the key on and the AC selected let me know

Try putting the paper clip in #85 and turning the key on but put the other end of the testlight to power at the battery. If the light comes on with the engine running and the AC on the PCM is trying to turn the fan on.

So far you have verified that you have a good fan, fuse for the fan and wiring to the fan. Now we start to work on the system that tells the fan to turn on.

You said your air control does not work? The AC button does light up?

Try this after testing at pin #85, put the relay inplace and disconnect the coolant temp connector from the sensor and use the paperclip to jump acrosss the pins of the connector on the harness side.

The CTS is located here

This is on the drivers end of the engine just below the fuel pressure regulator and above the upper radiator hose inlet fitting to the engine.

Turn the engine on and the fan should run, if it does not swap relays with one of the others in the same relay box and try again.

Let me know what you find.

Sunday is "dinner" with my 93 YO mom so I will be offline for a couple of hours.

Let me know what you find and I will post back or I will opt out and allow other experts to continue with your question if that is what you would like

So the problem is that you have a leaking AC system. The most common leak on these is the compressor. If the body is covered with oil the compressor is leaking.

If you scan the computer you will see AC inhibited due to low pressure codes. The computer is never seeing the coolant get hot enough to turn the fans on. The coolant level is low enough to leave the sensor in the air or you have a bubble in the system.

Have you bled the air from the cooling system?

If not here is the procedure

Filling Procedure

Notice: DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.

If the cooling system is being refilled ONLY (no flush), a 50 percent ethylene glycol and 50 percent clean water mixture should be used to fill the system. Fill the system until the level of the 50/50 mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck. Wait two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant mixture, add a 50/50 ethylene glycol/water mixture as necessary to restore the coolant mixture level to the base of the radiator neck.

Slowly fill the cooling system through the radiator neck using the following procedure:

3.1.

If the coolant system has been flushed first add 100 percent ethylene glycol in the amount listed for the appropriate engine application.

3.2.

Slowly add clean water to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the radiator neck.

3.3.

Wait for two minutes and recheck the level of the coolant mixture, add clean water if necessary to restore the coolant mixture level to the base of the radiator neck.

Install the radiator cap making certain the arrows line up with the overflow tube.

Close all air bleeds. DO NOT over-torque the air bleed valve. The air bleed valve is made out of brass.

Add 0.75 liters (0.80) quarts) of a 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol and clean water to the coolant recovery reservoir. Notice: The Low Coolant warning/indicator lamp may come on after this procedure. If after operating the vehicle so that the engine heats up and cools down three times, the Low Coolant warning/indicator lamp does not go out, or fails to come on at the ignition check, and the coolant is above the full cold mark in the reservoir, refer to Low Coolant Warning/Indicator Lamp in Instrument Panels, Guages and Warning Indicators. If at any time the Temperature warning/indicator lamp comes on, immediate action is required. Turn OFF the engine and allow the vehicle to cool. Do not remove the coolant recovery reservoir cap at this time.

Inspect the freeze protection of the engine coolant after the engine heats up and cools down three times using a refractometer or a hydrometer to ensure proper freeze -37°C (-34°F) protection. Obtain the coolant mixture for the inspection from the base of the radiator neck, NOT from the coolant recovery reservoir.

The air bleeds are on the inlet next to the end of the hose

You can also remove a lot of air by running the engine at 3000 RPM with the cap off and filling as it is running but you will have to bleed the air until only coolant runs from the air bleed

This is the manual system the automatic has a display that you set the temp on.

The air doors are vacuum controled so you will have to check the vacuum supply to the control head (black hose) then connect the vacuum supply to the various vacuum motors to see if they move while the engine is running. You will be taking the place of the control head. If all of them work the control head is the problem

Here is the diagram of the vacuum routing there is a vacuum connector under the center of the dash just to the right of center this is a good place to check for supply while the engine is running and to use a small hose to jump the vacuum to the different colored hoses shown in the diagram with the blower running then you can feel for the air from the vents

Glad you got it working, if you continue to get air in the system you may have a leak in the intake gasket area. The smell of coolant will last a long time so it may just be leftover coolant and it will have to run off over the next few weeks. Keep an eye on it.

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