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Topic Review (Newest First)

09-14-2006 05:36 PM

MNFatz

Quote:

Originally Posted by elvis 66 chevelle

Thanks for reply, i use fram on my my wifes car........no more! first used Fram HP-4 racing filter on my SB Chevy 400 because my son uses these on his race car. I had hard time getting mine off, header and flex plate in the way!! From my research the best filters are .....1 Amsoil, 2 mobil 1, 3 K&N, 4 Pure One!! The only other problem i have is a long filter is very close to header, can not get a finger between filter and header!! Do you guys have this problem?? Does it raise oil temperture or do damage to filter it self?? Do any of you put heat wrap on oil filter? That is what i am thinking of doing because i don't want to go with short filter.

Doug

Here's a pic of my remote mount. I was basically forced into using this because of my setup. you could remount yours far from the header. Summit has a bunch of different adapters that might do the trick.

(click on the pic to supersize it)

-fatz

09-14-2006 02:07 PM

xntrik

Quote:

Originally Posted by onovakind67

The Smokey reference came with the text from Rousch. Perhaps you could enlighten us as to what exactly Smokey said, I read his book but I didn't memorize it.

As I indicated, they misquoted.

The best authority as to what ole Smokey said is Ole Smokey himself.

Smokey's SBC oil article also appeared in Engine Masters Race Edition last year.

EDITED I won't rewrite my posts.

09-14-2006 01:56 PM

xntrik

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcclark

With all the info available about oil filters I don't understand why anyone
would use a Fram, they're the worst.
Especially considering that some of the other really good filters are
about the same price. It's just not worth it.

I know lots of people that have used them exclusively and have never had any problems.

I have a beater 5.0 Ford with 247,000 on it with Fram every time (but maybe 2), and it doesn't burn a drop of oil (Mobil 1).

If you study what "race filters" are you might begin to question their viability for any situation other than "race and change the oil".

09-14-2006 08:02 AM

jcclark

With all the info available about oil filters I don't understand why anyone
would use a Fram, they're the worst.
Especially considering that some of the other really good filters are
about the same price. It's just not worth it.

09-14-2006 07:43 AM

onovakind67

Quote:

Originally Posted by xntrik

Pardon me sir. That is partial mis-information and a misquote of what Old Smokey actually said.

I suggest looking up what Smokey Yunick wrote in HIS book about the small block Chevrolet.

He also emphasized that those pressure readings must be taken at the very END of the delivery system.

The Smokey reference came with the text from Rousch. Perhaps you could enlighten us as to what exactly Smokey said, I read his book but I didn't memorize it.

09-14-2006 07:18 AM

elvis 66 chevelle

Fram oil filter = lower oil pressure

Thanks for reply, i use fram on my my wifes car........no more! first used Fram HP-4 racing filter on my SB Chevy 400 because my son uses these on his race car. I had hard time getting mine off, header and flex plate in the way!! From my research the best filters are .....1 Amsoil, 2 mobil 1, 3 K&N, 4 Pure One!! The only other problem i have is a long filter is very close to header, can not get a finger between filter and header!! Do you guys have this problem?? Does it raise oil temperture or do damage to filter it self?? Do any of you put heat wrap on oil filter? That is what i am thinking of doing because i don't want to go with short filter.

Doug

09-13-2006 07:01 PM

MNFatz

Don't ever, ever, ever use a Fram.

Fram Extra Guard

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

I've seen them live on less pressure, but in all the sbc engines i've built, I've never had one idle below 30 pounds. Even my last one still was up good and it was just shy of 200,000 miles when I pulled it.

I dare you to hook up your pressure gauge to the end of the oil gallery.

Hmmm, interesting suggestion. I have my Frantz bypass filter plummed into the front galley plug just up from the end of the cam. Might have to undo it from the Frantz and hook up a pressure guage and see what i'm getting. Would be interesting to "T" it into that line with the bypass filter hooked up and see what happens too. The orifice in the Frantz is .035, always wondered what it did to the oil pressure. My guage reads 40 at idle and 55-60 at cruise.

Mark

09-12-2006 04:07 PM

johnsongrass1

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve t

if you got a million dollars to use a product, you would use anything, but john is just a fast racer, hats off to him

Just cause the money comes from frame doesn't mean they race with hit.
I've got all kinds of sponsors that I don't use their products. They never said John, do you use fram filters? IF they do, it'll be a one application product that you can't get anywhere but john himself, much less any store.

09-12-2006 03:53 PM

onovakind67

A friend of mine at Rousch Racing sent me this on his recommendation for oil pressure on our road racing motor:
How much is enough? The rule of thumb: "10 psi for every 1,000 rpm", was originated more than 25 years ago by Smokey Yunick. Does that mean that because you think your engine will run 7,000 rpm you need 70 psi?

No. Recommendations also depend on application.
Note: All pressures are "hot" (ideal temp is about 220 F)