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All my welds keep breaking and I know its not me so whats wrong with the welder.

And by the way, I've only been wrong once and that was when I thought I was wrong but then discovered that I was'nt.

You know, your not so far off there, there is lots of Chinese, and east indians that could not weld if thier life depended on it. and its always the machine causing the problem. The ones that can barely speak english I imediately send elsewhere. The ones that attempt to talk me down in price are gone too. They all seem to like to barter, The Hudderites are ok, as they fill me up with fresh bread, meat and picked eggs.

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Did we ever fix the 211 soft start issue. It sounds like there may be a releay sticking or chattering or posibly a logic problem some where since it only does it on the first pull, and after reseting. I am not a miller tech, just an electronics guy so take this with a grain of salt. With out a scat to read and trace, i really can give you any more advice.

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OK I have one. Not really something you couldn't figure out, but still a problem for me.
I use the RCC-14 control on all my tigs. From time to time the cables go bad, right at the controller. I've bought the little repair kits and had mostly bad luck.
Mainly because I ain't that good with that small of wire. Besides I need to be welding with my time.
My Miller rep doesn't show just the cord available. I have a pile of this stuff laying around and it is bound to get bigger.
I would love to find a place to just buy the control cable and not the entire assembly. Any ideas?

The parts book shows all the pieces to build your own cord. If you have the right crimpers. But not a cord that is already assembled ready to just plug in.
They do have ready to plug in cord assemblies for the foot controls.

Glenn 300 amp stick
Millermatic 35
L-tec plasma

Comment

Did we ever fix the 211 soft start issue. It sounds like there may be a relay sticking or chattering or possibly a logic problem some where since it only does it on the first pull, and after reseting. I am not a miller tech, just an electronics guy so take this with a grain of salt. With out a scat to read and trace, i really can't give you any more advice.

No since the op's machine works in 120, but not in 230, I'm thinking something is allowing the strike relay to come on and stay on. I'm going with a primary ground issue. Easily tested by disconnecting it temporarily. Reason why I think this is that the unit did work properly for some time, I'm wondering if something was improperly hooked into that panel and supplying a low voltage to that ground circuit, and into the commons on the board. Now most of the commons are isolated, strike isn't.

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Hello, I have a xmt 304 230/460 serial LB022136 welder that burns up the wires(1&3) on the RC3 connector on the PC2 board. The service manual doesnt really cover much about the PC2 board and does not have test points to check, not that I can with it burned now. The wires seem to be linked to the control transformer? I checked and did not find a short. The line contactors clicked on and off several times before it made a loud boom and bruned the wires, also knocked a smaller cap off the PC2 board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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One of your autolink contactors is jammed, Only one side can work at a time. If you press one in, the other should remain locked. (of course pc2 removed, and power off) quite likely one of the large charge caps is smoked and an igbt.

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Using two welders to make one. The PC2 was burned the same way and I had a good good one from another welder. Before I installed it I swapped the contactors from a unit that had an explosive C3 and C4 issue. I also tested the contactors for sticking and proper switch after the install, the original ones were good as well. Which board tells the autolink contactors to close? Is is possible that it is being told to close both? The contactors switched on of real fast with 240v tried 460v and still switched fast. The wires burned before it could be turned off, now it blows the building breaker as soon as its turned on.

Comment

Using two welders to make one. The PC2 was burned the same way and I had a good good one from another welder. Before I installed it I swapped the contactors from a unit that had an explosive C3 and C4 issue. I also tested the contactors for sticking and proper switch after the install, the original ones were good as well. Which board tells the autolink contactors to close? Is is possible that it is being told to close both? The contactors switched on of real fast with 240v tried 460v and still switched fast. The wires burned before it could be turned off, now it blows the building breaker as soon as its turned on.

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I have a 12vs an i can't get it to run well. It has .045 flux core in it. wire runs, and strikes but then runs inconsistent. Turned up it will run but not good. You can hear it start stop when it does it