Ya. Looks interesting. I wonder if there is a less costly solution though. Not that the kit isn't worth what it is worth - for all that machining it is - I just can't afford it. Maybe in the future a well designed urethane upgrade will be good enough.

urethane does not work...tried that during the R&D process when i was designing the kit. It actually just increases the frequency of the hop to a "violent chatter",fyi. You'd be wasting your money and time, I'm not playing the salesman, just recounting personal experience.
Violent lateral movement of the nose of the diff will reap havoc upon the input shaft and collar nut, It's an odd design in the grand scheme of things, It's lifespan will certainly increase if movement is controlled, what factory bushings allow that differential to do back there is frightening...If any notable power is applied, breakage is imminent. The only solution is to support it properly and control movement. OP, do you have a pic of the front of the diff post breakage? reason i ask is that it appears to be the cv joint in the driveshaft that let go, hard to tell from picture. My first step would be to remove the collar nut?broken part of the d/s and inspect the input shaft before worrying about replacement of the whole thing...

Yes. I will be having a shop take out the diff today if their quote is reasonable. How many hours do you think should they quote me for removing the drive shaft and diff? Just removing the parts.

Originally Posted by rick@defiv

urethane does not work...tried that during the R&D process when i was designing the kit. It actually just increases the frequency of the hop to a "violent chatter",fyi. You'd be wasting your money and time, I'm not playing the salesman, just recounting personal experience.
Violent lateral movement of the nose of the diff will reap havoc upon the input shaft and collar nut, It's an odd design in the grand scheme of things, It's lifespan will certainly increase if movement is controlled, what factory bushings allow that differential to do back there is frightening...If any notable power is applied, breakage is imminent. The only solution is to support it properly and control movement. OP, do you have a pic of the front of the diff post breakage? reason i ask is that it appears to be the cv joint in the driveshaft that let go, hard to tell from picture. My first step would be to remove the collar nut?broken part of the d/s and inspect the input shaft before worrying about replacement of the whole thing...

Feel for you buddy, mine went in the same place as yours although the driveshaft didnt fall off the diff input shaft like yours:

I fitted an m3 diff as I had already purchased it due to having a welded crownwheel in my diff. I'm just waiting for Rick to come out with this m3 diff lockdown kit to prevent this happening again. I already have aluminium diff bushes on mine but like Dzenno I want to address the issue at hand.

@blisstik, would have thought an experienced shop could easily do it in 3 or 4 hours.

Member BoostAddict was able to fab a diff brace for me to prevent the diff and driveshaft from breaking again. It reduces wheel whop and protects the diff from moving due to wheel hop

Under soft - mid launches I get no wheel hop. Hard launches my wheels will spin or I will get some sort of wheel hop but its minimal and felt directly to rear wheels rather than "right up under my seat"

Very affordable setup a fast and safe remedy to protect your diff and driveshaft on this platform

Member @BoostAddict was able to fab a diff brace for me to prevent the diff and driveshaft from breaking again. It reduces wheel whop and protects the diff from moving due to wheel hop

Under soft - mid launches I get no wheel hop. Hard launches my wheels will spin or I will get some sort of wheel hop but its minimal and felt directly to rear wheels rather than "right up under my seat"

Very affordable setup a fast and safe remedy to protect your diff and driveshaft on this platform

In that case it doesn't work though. It needs to eliminate wheel hop under all circumstances. If you get wheel spin that's fine but any wheel hop at all regardless of how you launch is to me totally unacceptable. It'll end up breaking things again with more torque to the ground and harder launches on stickier surfaces Maybe you're missing solid diff bushings to completely eliminate it.

In that case it doesn't work though. It needs to eliminate wheel hop under all circumstances. If you get wheel spin that's fine but any wheel hop at all regardless of how you launch is to me totally unacceptable. It'll end up breaking things again with more torque to the ground and harder launches on stickier surfaces Maybe you're missing solid diff bushings to completely eliminate it.

agreed.that thing is kinda gangsta looking lol, I guess it would work provided it had solid bushes, I certainly wouldn't wanna put a bunch of power to it though, slicks would probably blow that thing off the back of the car lol...and yeah, If you get hop on hard launches that doesn't constitute it as "fixed". If there was a cheaper way to fix the problem that met my standards I'd be selling it...In the "big picture" one must ask themselves what costs less, repeated busted parts or a one shot fix with a money-back guarantee....

Quick update: shop says the input shaft and diff is fine, however the VAC aluminum cover top mount is broken, which may have actually saved the input shaft (speculation). So I need a new drive shaft, diff cover (going with stock) and the Defiv kit.

In that case it doesn't work though. It needs to eliminate wheel hop under all circumstances. If you get wheel spin that's fine but any wheel hop at all regardless of how you launch is to me totally unacceptable. It'll end up breaking things again with more torque to the ground and harder launches on stickier surfaces Maybe you're missing solid diff bushings to completely eliminate it.

Originally Posted by rick@defiv

agreed.that thing is kinda gangsta looking lol, I guess it would work provided it had solid bushes, I certainly wouldn't wanna put a bunch of power to it though, slicks would probably blow that thing off the back of the car lol...and yeah, If you get hop on hard launches that doesn't constitute it as "fixed". If there was a cheaper way to fix the problem that met my standards I'd be selling it...In the "big picture" one must ask themselves what costs less, repeated busted parts or a one shot fix with a money-back guarantee....

It was only intended to reduce wheel hop and to secure the diff, not a fix for wheel hop. Its best to have some sort of preventive messures rather than none at all.

@rick@defiv I am sure if it was as simple as that you would have already done this. The product that you offer is an actual fix to perminantly get rid of wheel hop and secure the diff which I am soon to follow with. Just not ready at this time as I am waiting for more feedback on it expecially with that type of price tag on it

Also, I have no intentions of running my car on DRs or Slick ever. As I am on the track is the same off the track. That is why I sought a temporary remedy until I got the DEVIF setup.

It was only intended to reduce wheel hop and to secure the diff, not a fix for wheel hop. Its best to have some sort of preventive messures rather than none at all.

@rick@defiv I am sure if it was as simple as that you would have already done this. The product that you offer is an actual fix to perminantly get rid of wheel hop and secure the diff which I am soon to follow with. Just not ready at this time as I am waiting for more feedback on it expecially with that type of price tag on it

Also, I have no intentions of running my car on DRs or Slick ever. As I am on the track is the same off the track. That is why I sought a temporary remedy until I got the DEVIF setup.

Oh yeah about the gangsta comment; wWAaazZZzAAaP !

LOL! It's held at the introductory price until the 31rst...$50 isn't a ton off,but it's something

What do you mean? Design it to be able to withstand hundreds of lbs of torque being unleashed on it by a broken rear axle?

So, according to OP the driveshaft broke... I don't see that as causing 'additional stress' on the diff cover, I suppose then you could argue it was due to the wheel-hop, there are lots of cars with the same driveshaft issue that had bad wheelhop and didn't bust their diff cover.

Maybe I'm missing something in the physics here. I don't even know what broke first, what if the ear gave way first and contributed to the nuking of the driveshaft? Developing stress fractures over time leading to OPs strange failure circumstance (between shifts & not off the line.)

At the end of the day the cover -should- be able to withstand a massive amount of torque, it should be over-engineered especially given that we're putting more and more power through these things.

I was just thinking about this. I don't know which actually broke first. It's possible that either scenario will cause the same result.

Originally Posted by uniter

So, according to OP the driveshaft broke... I don't see that as causing 'additional stress' on the diff cover, I suppose then you could argue it was due to the wheel-hop, there are lots of cars with the same driveshaft issue that had bad wheelhop and didn't bust their diff cover.

Maybe I'm missing something in the physics here. I don't even know what broke first, what if the ear gave way first and contributed to the nuking of the driveshaft? Developing stress fractures over time leading to OPs strange failure circumstance (between shifts & not off the line.)

At the end of the day the cover -should- be able to withstand a massive amount of torque, it should be over-engineered especially given that we're putting more and more power through these things.