In the 1970s, it was dinner-party de rigueur to serve small plates of beef stroganoff atop tiny shell noodles. Guests could eat the dish while standing; as they mingled and discussed the state of play on topics such as Gough Whitlam's leadership, the $1.3 million spent on Jackson Pollock's squiggly artwork known as Blue Poles, the aftermath of Darwin's Cyclone Tracey, and the inaugural Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras held in Sydney as part of International Gay Solidarity Day.

As the hostess faffed about in the kitchen preparing a platter of smoked oysters on Jatz crackers, her husband, the host, might be opening a cask of Ben Ean moselle; or perhaps a bottle of Blue Nun or Cold Duck [yes, by all means, feel free to shudder].

Fast forward a few decades, lifestyles have changed and our palates have come of age. But good things will rarely go out of fashion. Indeed, they become classics. Beef stroganoff, or stroganov, is among them.

According to Larousse Gastronomique, stroganov is "a preparation of thinly sliced beef coated with a cream-based sauce and garnished with onions and mushrooms." The dish originated in Russia and may have been created by a French chef who worked for the rich and powerful Stroganov family. The first known recipe is said to have appeared in A Gift to Young Housewives, a Russian cookbook by Elena Molokhovets, published in 1871. Although her version was prepared with mustard, beef broth and just a little sour cream; later recipes include onions, mushrooms, paprika, nutmeg, cognac and tomato paste.

Modern versions suggest low-fat substitutions for the sour cream, such as yoghurt or light evaporated milk mixed with cornflour. Some recipes go so far as to include Worcestershire sauce (!) and beef stock cubes. My preference is for the old-fashioned, slightly retro method given by the late Tess Mallos in her 1976 Meat Cookbook. I have adapted it over the years to suit my own taste.

Trim any gristle or sinew from the meat and cut it into strips. Melt two tablespoons of the butter in a heavy-based frypan and sauté the onion until soft. Lower the heat slightly, add the garlic and mushrooms and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Using a serving spoon, transfer the onions, garlic and mushrooms to a bowl and set aside.

Now add the remaining butter to the frypan and quickly brown the beef strips all over. Do this in batches, otherwise the meat will stew and turn grey. Remove the pan from the heat briefly and spoon the onions, garlic and mushrooms back into to the pan. Stir in the paprika. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Pour in the sour cream and heat through very briefly, taking care not to allow it to boil. Serve immediately over cooked noodles or rice. This quantity will serve four.

Image source at top of page: Unsplash (beef stroganoff does not photograph particularly well). See my Instagram feed if you'd like to see the finished dish, photographed at dinnertime last evening).

Your turn now, dear readers. Do you agree that beef stroganoff is a good thing? What are your memories from the 1970s (if you were born before then)? What other dishes are on your list of culinary classics?

Beef Stroganoff is good stuff! I haven't made it for ages, and have had it on my to-do list for the blog for at least 2 years -- just haven't gotten around to it. So I'm loving your post! Good inspiration for me -- thanks.

I felt quite nostalgic reading your intro. Smoked oysters and cream cheese on a jatz has evolved to now sit atop a lavash cracker, but still remains a favourite. And once or twice a year a good old beef stroganoff is still cooked up following a similar recipe to yours - mine has a tbsp of tomato paste in it, which warms up the grey look. Hubby is ecstatic when served a big bowl of it topping fetticune noodles. In the 'olden days' we likely would have served a Black Forest cake for the finale.

Stuart and I love beef stroganoff and I've struggled to find a Migraine-friendly version. Besides, I think it's one of those dishes that you have to learn by standing in the kitchen watching while your favourite version is prepared. I'll be giving this a try very soon. Bravo!

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Lizzy

25/8/2017 07:21:15 pm

Hi Adele, I guess with the salycilates in mushrooms, you might not be able to find a headache-free stroganoff recipe, unless you leave out the mushies.

My food memories from the 70's are pretty grim - watery Irish stew and overcooked lambs fry at home, bland lentil dishes in share houses. Beef stroganoff would have been very welcome!

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Lizzy

25/8/2017 07:21:38 pm

Oh no, Amanda...

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Eha

22/8/2017 08:37:00 pm

Oh Liz! You left Rhinegold and Barossa Pearl off the 'wine list' :) !! You and I must have grown up on beef stroganov . . . . oh yes, still prepare it, and in spite of my 'health rules', this is one dish which deserves its sour cream . . . . don't remember it being served on shell noodles or at the beginning of a meal . . . I guess different experiences for all of us . . .

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Lizzy

25/8/2017 07:22:15 pm

Ah yes, Eha, I was going to mention Barossa Pearl... and I have fond memories of Rhinegold as well!

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Maureen

22/8/2017 08:42:04 pm

I was a woman of the 70s but beef stroganoff was always a sit down event for us and over egg noodles. I'll be honest and admit that I served it at a dinner for friends in the past 12 months. faux pas??

Your recipe is very much like mine except the Noble sweet paprika. I'm eager to try that.

Beef stroganoff is absolutely a good thing, and holds a special place in my life. It was one of those dishes I made a lot as an apprentice chef at the convention centre. Also a big fan of chicken cacciatore. :)

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Lizzy

25/8/2017 07:23:46 pm

You know, I don't think I've ever made chicken cacciatore!

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Sophy

23/8/2017 10:02:26 pm

The trick is in making sure you have good quality meat and that it is NOT overcooked. A classic recipe that never fails to please!

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Lizzy

25/8/2017 07:24:11 pm

So true, Sophy! Spot on.

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Penny

24/8/2017 06:45:35 am

How many grams in 1/4 cup butter, please? I find it unnecessarily messy to use cup measurements for solid ingredients.

I haven’t had this for years Liz, but a good reminder what a lovely dish this is when done well!

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beejay

16/9/2017 06:46:33 pm

A college friend who learned to make stroganoff from an old Russian man says he swore it had to have vodka in the cream sauce. Shrug. So, that's the way we've always made it.

I, too, fondly remember tomato aspic, although my mom put shoestring beets in hers and put a dollop of mayonnaise on top for me. I'm inclined the whole thing was a conspiracy to get me to eat tomato -- I loved beets and mayo but didn't like tomato sauces. ;) However, that sweet, tangy, salty creamy flavor combination, still appeals to me. Now, if I could only get up the ambition to make it.

Your recipe sounds delicious. Haven't made stroganoff in a while but thank you for the culinary nudge.

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Martin Huang

27/11/2017 02:26:51 am

Informative and delicious! My family love it too.

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​Cooking and writing have been a lifelong passion.​Join me as I share with you my favourite recipes; postcards and morsels from my travels; conversations with cookery writersand chefs; and news on food, cookbooks ​and cooking.​- Liz Posmyk