DKNY

URBAN SARTORIALNew York: While it may not be the most fashion-forward brand in the world, one thing DKNY succeeds at each season is illustrating how the modern urban dude can easily transition from day into night and from work into play — all while looking techno and understated at once. For F/W 12, creative director Garry Martin put function ahead of form in a collection called “Urban Rhythm”, which was full of slick surfaces, utilitarian details and hyper-masculine silhouettes. The directional proportions (cropped vests over slim overcoats and high-neck knits under woven shirts) created a kind of sartorial warrior that feels right for a season focused on the traditions of uniforms. —Michael Fisher