Essex reader has cracks in asphalt

Q: Three or four years ago, you published a recommendation for a crack sealer for asphalt driveways. I cut it out and filed it for future reference.

The future has arrived and the filing system has failed me. Could you please publish that recommendation again? — Essex Center, via mail

A: One of the best asphalt crack repair materials is a rubberized asphalt emulsion-based crack sealer, which you can get from professional supply houses, such as Asphalt Seal Coating Direct (www.asphaltsealcoatingdirect.com). The sealer is sold in 1-gallon, 5-gallon and 55-gallon containers. The product is simply poured into the cracks.

But there are caveats, such as the width and depth of the cracks, the outside temperature, etc. So be sure to follow the directions. There are crack sealers sold in hardware and big-box stores, but they are not as long lasting as the professional-grade sealers.

Q: In late February, we had a sewage backup from the powder room toilet, which is at the lowest point in a finished basement. It also overflowed into the game room and the adjoining closet where the furnace is located. It took us a while, with the help of a plumber, to determine that there was a blockage somewhere in the outside line feeding into the basement. This was discovered by using a 75-foot electric snake.

The plumber said that when the snake is pushed through, they can usually tell what the cause is by means of what’s on the end of the snake, but in this case, the snake line was clear. We didn’t have the obvious things that clog — hair, etc.

1. We are wondering, is it possible that the cause may be that there is insufficient water flow in order to clear the trap? We have those new toilets with low flow ratings.

2. We had our basement mediated -- carpeting and padding removed and replaced, cement floor disinfected, running fans and dehumidifiers -- but we wanted to know what else we should be looking to do in the future to prevent this from happening again.

3. Also, before replacement flooring is laid on the cement floor, are there any new products that serve as a barrier or as a system warning? And would you recommend putting some sort of casing around the furnace area? Could the extreme cold weather that occurred this winter have been a factor?

4. Would you recommend any of type of flooring for a basement area -- vinyl flooring vs. carpeting?

Thank you for any advice you can provide. Sincerely. — Apollo, Pennsylvania, via email

A: What did the plumber tell you might have caused the blockage, since he or she didn’t find any obvious material? If all your plumbing fixtures are connected to the same waste line -- as opposed to a black water waste line for toilets and a gray water waste line for laundry, kitchen and baths -- I doubt that the low-flow toilets are responsible for the blockage you experienced. There should be enough water flow from the other plumbing fixtures to clear the waste lines.

How old is the house, how long have you lived in it, and is this the first time this occurred? Did the plumber check the slope of the waste line? Too shallow a slope, or none, can cause solids to accumulate and result in a temporary blockage. So can too steep a slope that causes the liquids to run so fast that solids get left behind.

There are warning systems that are comprised of a device, attached to a cable and an alarm control, and placed on the floor. The control will emit a signal if the floor device comes in contact with water. It is always a good idea to set a water heater and a furnace in pans to protect them from basement leakage, and to protect the rest of the basement if they, in turn, leak.

It is possible that you experienced a temporary frost blockage in extreme temperatures if the outside waste line is not buried deep enough below the frost line for your area. If a basement is absolutely dry, carpeting over a synthetic pad adds to its comfort. Otherwise, it is safer to use vinyl tiles.

HELPFUL INFORMATION FROM A SOUTH DAKOTA READER: “Are you aware that Menard’s offers an inside storm window that is made by Larson Manufacturing Co. in Brookings, South Dakota? It is not very expensive, and we have them in our dining area in the kitchen, and it seems to be warmer than before as it provides an extra layer of glass between us and the great outdoors in South Dakota winters. We have wood windows and the inside storms have a metal frame that is easily installed with screws to the wood.”

Adding storm windows either to single- or double-glazing improves comfort and energy savings. But it is not the glass that provides the increase in comfort; it is the additional enclosed air space, which the storm window offers.

Storm windows can be externally installed — the most common types — or installed inside, such as the Magnetite brand originally developed by MIT.

Q: Thank you for all of your education over the years. It has certainly been invaluable. Now it’s my turn to ask a question:

We live in a raised ranch in the northwest suburbs of Chicago. The home has two sump pumps — one in the garage and one in the laundry room.

The pump in the laundry room received very little water for several years, but since installing landscaping in the area, the amount of water has increased. When the pit dries out in dry periods, there is a horrible stench that permeates the basement. Adding bleach to the pit helped stem the odor, but it killed plants at the discharge point. A friend suggested adding septic treatment (bacteria and enzymes), which helped the odor somewhat and didn’t hurt my plants, but needed to be added regularly and didn’t solve the problem.

Last summer, my son and I replaced the pump/PVC and cleaned out the pit with bleach, scrubbing the sides and bottom. We reset the pump in the gravel to minimize any standing water and felt we had solved the problem, but the smell came back a few months later, strong as ever.

I have layers of plastic sheeting over the pit cover, taped around the PVC, but the odor still comes through. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. — via email

I suggest you get a gallon, put some in a spray bottle to spray the walls of the pit, and pour some of the product into the pit when the smell returns.

Q: We are having a water-softening system installed. A friend said putting the brine discharge into our septic system will ruin it. Is he right? — via email

A: The National Sanitation Foundation says that the brine from the regeneration of water softeners being discharged in septic tanks is actually beneficial to bacteria. So did research by the University of Wisconsin.

What does hurt septic systems is the overuse of drain cleaners and other antiseptic household products, such as toilet cleaners, bleach and the disposal of sanitary products other than toilet paper.

A good rule to follow to ensure the health of a septic system is one that I saw many years ago in my friends’ cabin in the woods of Maine: “Don’t thro nottin’ in hea you ain’t et fust!”

Q: I have read in your book and columns about the issue with having gable vents along with ridge vents and/or soffit vents. I now have an unusual situation:

Our 1955 ranch house has soffit vents. First (about two years ago) we had lots of insulation put in the attic, and at the same time had the opening to the garage from the attic closed, as you have recommended. (Prior to this, the attic was totally open to the garage.) Two years later, we got a new roof, and a ridge vent was installed — the one you recommend — Shinglevent II.

My question is: Does it matter if the single remaining gable vent (in the attic) is covered or not?

This seems like a different situation from having two gable vents. I did not know anything about the gable vent situation was a possible concern when the attic work was done. The attic is quite inaccessible now, and full of insulation, so I asked the contractor if he knows if they covered the one gable vent. (I think I am understanding your information in general, but do not know how it applies to this situation of having only one gable vent.)

Here is his response: “I am not sure about the function of the gable vent or vents, but if you have a ridge vent, then having one or more gable vents is of no concern. The ridge vent is supplying plenty of ventilation. If you have additional ventilation, it will not diminish the capacity or function of the ridge vent.”

What can you tell me about all this? I hope I am worrying about nothing. — Burlington, via email

A: Gable vents in connection with continuous soffit and ridge vents adversely affect the proper functioning of the soffit/ridge combination. Air, like water to some extent, seeks the easiest path, and that is between the gable vents and the ridge vent. This greatly diminishes the effectiveness of the soffit vents, whose purpose is to function as the intake of air washing up the roof sheathing on its way to the exhaust provided by the ridge vent.

The proper functioning of the soffit/ridge vent combination is one way to reduce or prevent the formation of condensation and ice formation on roof sheathing and rafters.

It would be best to have the remaining gable vent closed, but if it is difficult to do in your case, I would not worry too much about it.

Henri de Marne’s book, “About the House,” is available at www.upperaccess.com and in bookstores. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Readers can send questions to Henri de Marne’s email address at henridemarne@gmavt.net, or to First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.