There is no regulation stating turkey must be served at Christmas; although I love it, every year there is some discussion of an alternative. Ham is popular, as is a hefty beef prime rib, but I had never considered a crown roast of pork until this year. It seemed stately and old-fashioned and remained off my radar until we were served a stunning example at a holiday event at the Jasper Park Lodge, the chef carrying it out of the kitchen on a wooden board in a proud, Norman Rockwell-esque manner. It was beautiful to look at, easier to carve than a bird, and juicy — meat roasted on the bone is always more flavourful than without. But what sold me was the potential for stuffing; the cavity that’s created in the middle of the tied circular bone-in pork loin has almost unlimited

potential; it makes a perfect spot for a mound of stuffing that turns gloriously golden and crunchy on top as it roasts. It’s always the crispy bits poking out of the turkey that are eaten first. (And it doesn’t have to be stuffing — you could swap in a rice pilaf or mashed potatoes, post-roast. I’m thinking of filling one with baked beans later in the

winter for the ultimate pork and beans.)

A crown roast of pork costs slightly less than an inexpensive turkey, requires about half the cooking time and has no carcass to deal with as you do the dishes; it also takes up less space in the oven, freeing it up for sides. Try baking whole sweet potatoes directly on the oven rack alongside the pork — they will take about an hour and can be served right in their skins, split and drizzled with melted butter and maple syrup. Roasted brussels sprouts go well with pork, and if mashed potatoes are a must, a crown roast produces sufficient pan drippings to make gravy.

f the butcher hasn’t already done so, separate the bones by cutting between them with a sharp knife; if you like, French the bone by carefully scraping off any bits of meat with a knife.

Place the pork in a roasting pan or large cast iron pan and drizzle with oil; rub the oil all over the meat and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange the pears and cranberries in the pan around the pork. Drizzle with a little oil.

To make the stuffing, heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy skillet and when the foam subsides add the onion and celery and cook for 4-5 minutes, until soft. Add the apple or pear and rosemary and cook for another minute. Cut or tear the bread into a large bowl and add the onion mixture. Pour the stock overtop and toss with your hands to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Mound the stuffing in the middle of the crown roast, and place whatever doesn’t fit into a small baking dish.

Preheat the oven to 325˚F. Roast the pork for 2-2 ½ hours, covering the stuffing and bones with foil if they are browning too quickly, until it reaches an internal temperature of 155°F – 160°F. (Insert your thermometer into the meatiest part of the roast, ensuring it doesn’t touch the bone, which conducts heat more efficiently than the meat.)

The extra dish of stuffing can be roasted alongside the pork, but will only need about an hour. Tent the roast with foil and let rest for 20 minutes before carving by cutting between each bone into a thick chop.

Serve with roasted pears and stuffing.

Serves 10.

The Dessert

For dessert, one of my most requested recipes is for small pavlovas — meringues filled with lemon curd and whipped cream and topped with a few tart berries or pomegranate arils. They’re light and not too rich, festive looking, easy to make ahead and are gluten-free. To make pavlovas, beat 3 egg whites until soft peaks form; stir 1 tsp. cornstarch into ¾ cup sugar and add gradually to the whites as you beat them, until they’re stiff and resemble shaving foam. On a parchment-lined sheet, shape into small (or medium, or large) nests and bake at 250˚F for 1 hour, until set and dry. These can be kept in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. When ready to serve, fill each with a small spoonful of lemon curd, a dollop of whipped cream and a few

berries or pomegranate arils.

The Pork

Crown Roast of Pork with Rosemary Stuffing & Roasted Pears.

For a gluten-free version, roast the pork without the bread stuffing and fill the middle with a rice stuffing or pilaf before serving.

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