4 Seasons in 48 Hours

How to Turn a Weekend in the Mountains into a Year's Worth of Adventure

Right around the time the ski tourists are evaporating for the year, most of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is heaving a Thank Christ that's over sigh and resetting their watches for "corn o'clock"--that magical moment in early April when all four seasons jam into the same ZIP code at the same time, converging very handily about a mile from the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar on North Cache Street. Jackson Hole at corn o'clock may be the only time and place in the country where you can find world-class conditions for just about every outdoor sport you can think of, which means you can snowboard Mount Glory after breakfast, then strip down to board shorts for Class IV kayaking after lunch.

But this all-seasons season lasts only about two Saturdays a year--three, tops--and that's where the corn comes in: You'll know it's arrived when the snow takes on that great, gritty, corn-kernel bite that comes from thawing by noon and refreezing overnight. In a few weeks, it will be melted and gone till fall. But if you time it right, even a novice can hit Jackson on a Friday and cram a year's worth of adventure sports into the next forty-eight hours.

Ten events. Two days. Here's how.

FRIDAY

Arrive in Jackson Hole and dump your bags at your hotel. (Try the Parkway Inn, close to both bars and slopes; 800-247-8390, $99 per night in April.) Then stroll over to Teton Mountaineering (800-850-3595) on North Cache Street, which calls itself America's oldest outdoor shop. Because it's off-season, Teton will let you gear up Friday evening and charge for only Saturday and Sunday. You'll need an ice ax (for good grip on snowy canyon walls), alpine touring skis, skins, snowshoes, a roomy backpack, and collapsible poles. The whole package should run about $70 a day.

Head around the corner and down a few blocks to Hoback Sports (307-733-5335) on West Broadway, open till 8:00 P.M. Their bikes aren't usually out in April, but if you call ahead, they'll pull a few Treks or Specialized Stumpjumpers out of storage and have them tuned and ready when you arrive ($70 for two-day rental). Next stop is the Merry Piglets Mexican Grille for Fat Tire ale and seafood chimichangas. Go easy: You've got a big day coming.

SATURDAY (DAY ONE)

1. 8:00 A.M.: Mountain biking. Head northwest about fifteen miles, through Teton Village and into Grand Teton National Park. Luckily, the park is closed to cars in April, so this is the one time of year you can bomb along the roads without fear of getting flattened by SUVs. Dump the bikes when you get to the Death Canyon trailhead, and don't worry about locking them: The only people you'll see will be doing the same thing you are.

2. 9:30 A.M.: Hike into the canyon, following the main trails. When you hit the snow line (two to five miles in), unsling your backpack and pull out your skis and skins.

3. 10:30 A.M.: Cross-country skiing. Click in and start huffing uphill. You'll do some climbing, but mostly you'll get a nice up-and-down glide over the ninety minutes or so of rolling miles to come.

4. 12:00: Rock climbing. When you spot a stretch of canyon wall that matches your climbing ability, strap your skis on your back, break out your ice ax, and get goaty on the rock face. Death Canyon is a one-stop shop for all grades of climbing skills, so your ascent can be as easy or insane as you choose. "What's cool is, no matter how far you want to take it, there are always great peaks slammed right in your face," says Eric Orton, a local adventure-sport coach. Acro-phobe's opt-out: Take the long way around and keep skiing up the gradual ascent.

5. 2:00 P.M.: Downhill skiing. Once you crest the peak, stow your ax, strap back into your skis, and cannonball back toward the bikes. The beauty of alpine touring skis is, your heels unlock for cross-country push power, then click back in for downhill stability, so one set is all you need for both sweatin' and schussin'. You're in serious backcountry, but if you follow the tracks of the locals, you'll be able to choose between gentle bunny trails and kamikaze butt-clenchers.

SUNDAY (DAY TWO)

6. 8:00 A.M.: Trail-run the single-track paths, heading west from Snow King Mountain to High School Butte. You'll need to sweat off that belly-busting breakfast you powered down at the Bunnery. Besides, it's only about a mile or two, and you've got a supereasy ride down in store. Lazy man's opt-out: Spin along on your mountain bike.

7. 8:30 A.M.: Snowshoeing. Power-hike upthe butte until you see white, then snap into your snowshoes for the rest of the climb. Look back with pride as the town of Jackson gets smaller behind you; look ahead with a raised middle finger at your lazy biking buddy's huge head start.

8. 9:30 A.M.: Paraglide down to the village. "Depending on conditions, we can take a good athlete and throw him in the air on a solo flight the first morning," says Scott Harris of Jackson Hole Para-gliding (307-690-8726; about $200 for a half day). "We do some ground-school stuff, and if the wind is right, then you can kite right down to the village." Sane guy's opt-out: Buckle in with an instructor for a tandem flight.

9. 1:00 P.M.: Once you've unclenched your white knuckles, hop back on your bikeand tool south about seven miles to the South Park Bridge. There you'll find the guide from Rendezvous River Sports (307-733-2471), with whom you've arranged a kayak drop-off.

10. 1:30 P.M.: Kayak the Snake River. "That's my favorite time of year," says Rendezvous's Aaron Pruzan. "You've got great water, warm sun, and just about zero river traffic." You can get as wet as you want, finding everything from Class II burbles to Class IV death tubes. Kayaks rent for $50 a day, plus $200 for the guide and drop-off.

4:00 P.M.: Aquatic power lifting. It won't be easy keeping hot-tub froth out of your twelve-ounce margaritas, but this is the time to focus. Finish strong!

WHERE: Jackson Hole, Wyoming

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Low on skills, high on sweat. You'll survive, but you'll need a massage.

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