For Dough: Combine yeast and sugar with a little of the warm water; set aside until mixture is frothy, about 10 minutes. Sift flour and salt into a large bowl, if making the dough by hand, or into the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Add yeast mixture, along with remaining warm water. Combine ingredients. If doing this by hand, work the mixture with your fingers to form a soft dough, adding more water if necessary. Alternatively, mix the ingredients in the mixer. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface and knead until pliable and springy, about 5 minutes. Place dough in an oiled bowl, turning to coat, cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until dough doubles in size, about 1 hour.

Punch down risen dough and knead on a lightly floured surface. Divide dough into 2 or 3 equal pieces. (Alternatively, you can make smaller pieces, about the size of an egg, for small individual pizzas.) Roll each piece into a ball, place on floured surface, cover with a towel and let rest 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 500 degrees and place a baking sheet in the oven to heat. Place one of the balls of dough on a floured surface and roll it into a round, very thin circle, about 1/8-inch thick. Carefully remove heated baking sheet from oven and oil it generously. Place the round of dough on the oiled, heated baking sheet. Brush top of dough with oil and spread with a thin, even layer of the meat filling, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge.

Bake about 10 minutes, or until meat is cooked and edges of dough begin to get crisp. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Serve accompanied with wedges of fresh lemon and parsley, red onions and ripe tomato slices.