Auto Swap

I have been doing a lot of talk and research and finally taking the plunge. I found a 87 4runner parts truck with the A340H. I got all the wiring computers, and the crossmember ,the A340h and a new torque converter, but there was no flywheel. So they guy have me one out of his house. Anyways anyone attempting this swap i say buy the whole truck do not take off what you think you need. There is always more and i have not even got to the wiring yet.
My Truck

Ok i am a full time student and part time worker so my time to work on this swap is very small. So this might be a long build

Got the 5speed out. Have done it 100 times so was very easy.

Went to bolt in the flywheel only to see that the holes are no where close to lining up. Not sure if i was given the wrong flywheel or if there is some kinda adapter i need. Anyways i am going to Toyota today to see what i can find out and i am sure they will want to charge me a arm and a leg so posted a wanted add here for the Flywheel, Flywheel to converter bolts, and Flywheel to crank bolts. If anyone has these please pm me asap since i really cant move on from here.http://www.yotatech.com/f12/need-fly.../#post51754043

When I did my swap I did the same thing (got the wrong one, well actualy the one from the donor truck was cracked in different places) You need the one with 6 holes. Toyota has one with 6,8 and 10 like the one you have. Locate the one with 6 holes and you will be set. I dont know if the starters are the same.

x2 why switch to a trans that is gonna both hurt the power of the truck and be less reliable?

So I just completed the same swap. Yeah its a little slower than the truck was before. I also rebuilt my 22re and added a couple power adders to help compensate (torker cam, keith black pistons). I notice it most on the bottom end, I also lifted the 4runner and added 35" tires and have not geared yet. I think that most of the power loss is from the 35" tires. I dont know about reliability, I have had 3 4runners with autos and have never had an issue with any of them. One had over 265k on it when I sold it. While the 5spd's that I have had go through a clutch every 65k to 70k miles. So my experience is yes less power but more reliable.

When you find the correct flex plate make sure to use these. I think the bolt is a different legnth than others that you will find on your 4runner. If your like me you have bags full of spare bolts that you have gathered after years of workin on your Yota, I lost one and had to take a trip to Jims Toyota parts to find some more. I dident want to risk using the wrong bolt and have something fail incase they were different. I just figured that if they werent different Toyota would not have stamped that weird lookin b on it. Just some advise.

x2 why switch to a trans that is gonna both hurt the power of the truck and be less reliable?

I don't think the swap is a bad idea; DIRTCO had an auto in my favorite 4Runner ever. Plus, pro rock crawlers all use autos (or so I'm told). It's just that most people who wheel autos seriously had them on the truck stock. I just haven't seen someone view the auto as a big enough advantage to bother with a swap.

x2 why switch to a trans that is gonna both hurt the power of the truck and be less reliable?

don't know what his reasons are.....but an auto allows so much more control and finesse while crawling (read: typically fewer broken driveline parts).

as for the reliability statement. That's not really true. But typically the kind of person that buys an auto trans, is not the kind of person that changes trans fluid....

Besides, the A340H is identical to a jeep AW4. freakin bullet-proof, even behind an engine that makes double the torque of a 22RE

I've done a few electronic auto swaps, and they can be pretty involved. which is why I went out of my way to get a '92 S-10 blazer donor truck (only year for a CPFI 4.3 and non-electric 4L60 transmission).

Ya it has been some work, but i will get it done. I got the trans and all the parts for almost nothing so it is worth doing for me. Power i don't really care about it already has no power. Going to bolt the trans up tomorrow after work i think without the flexplate and see what else i have to do.

Just a update i decided i would get the trans mounted and make sure all my drivelines will work out, and start on the shift linkage. Rear drive shaft went on fine, and the front was not even close. The flange seemed to be bigger and the holes farther apart. So decided to try swapping the flanges. The nuts were the same size but splines on the Auto was bigger. So guess i need a auto front drive shaft. Or maybe just the slip side and i can slide my other half on there?

Just a update i decided i would get the trans mounted and make sure all my drivelines will work out, and start on the shift linkage. Rear drive shaft went on fine, and the front was not even close. The flange seemed to be bigger and the holes farther apart. So decided to try swapping the flanges. The nuts were the same size but splines on the Auto was bigger. So guess i need a auto front drive shaft. Or maybe just the slip side and i can slide my other half on there?

You will need the front out put flange from a V-6 auto IIRC. I got mine from Jims, it think it was $15. I bought a bunch of other stuff that day so I could be off on the price. Bolted right up. I had a long travel front drive shaft made by Scotty C from Addicted offroad in Greeley CO, He did a great job and works great.

SO find a v6 auto t-case flange so my 4cly manual driveshaft will work? Going to give that guy a call on Monday. Got my shift linkage hooked up and my shifter is not going to work in the stock location.