The faux-stone walls and Palladian windows of the Davenport Tower evoke a sense of utilitarian formality -- against that somber backdrop, the safari theme offers an understated, whimsical counterpoint, with leopard print upholstery, zebra-striped pendant lights, and a border of watercolored African animals marching along the ornate crown molding. If you love barbecue, the Safari Room claims one of the few smokers in our region, with a choice of baby back ribs or pulled pork, either as an entr & eacute;e or an appetizer. We tried the crispy flatbread, roasted in the Safari Room's brick oven, topped with peppery arugula, thinly sliced pears, a sprinkling of mild bleu cheese and drizzled with honey ($8). My halibut ($20) entr & eacute;e came roasted and served with fresh green beans, fingerling potatoes and cherry tomatoes -- the vibrantly colored vegetables were the stars of the plate. The $2 desserts are a lot of fun. 111 S. Post St., 789-6800 (LM)

CAF & eacute; MARRON

The sunny tangerine-hued north wall marks this casual-yet-upscale neighborhood spot as a daily source for morning meals that you'd expect to find at an indulgent weekend brunch. Presentation here lifts the most prosaic breakfast classics above the ordinary, and you can find surprises like salad and sandwiches for breakfast. Doug's French toast ($8) came pinwheeled, dotted with granola and apple, and topped with apple-cinnamon sauce and a dollop of whipped cream. The staff accommodated Marty's hideously pretentious breakfast needs, which included granola and yogurt ($6), a side of French toast ($5), coffee, bottled water at room temperature and a pomegranate mimosa ($5). My avocado sandwich ($9), with two poached eggs shimmying atop slices of avocado, bacon and tomato, all on Bouzies toast, gave me vegetables along with salty earthiness. Marron's weekday morning menu defies breakfast stereotypes, and does it with style. 144 S. Cannon St., 456-8660 (AC)

SATELLITE DINER

A recent remodel has spruced the place up, but the top-notch diner food hasn't changed a bit. My Joe's Special omelet ($8) -- filled with a meaty blend of ground beef, saut & eacute;ed red onions, spinach and parmesan -- came with a generous serving of hashbrowns that were crusty and browned on the outside, potato-y and tender inside. A friend loved his cinnamon-swirl French toast ($5), and the steak-and-egg special ($5) made even a self-proclaimed beef snob talk about his meal for the rest of the day. Service is confident, efficient and friendly without veering into perky. 425 W. Sprague, 624-3952 (AC)