Justice is served

Gavel Grille, new venture by former Grey Gelding owners, offers rich cuisine in spacious old courthouse in Hudson Falls

By Cheryl Clark

Updated 4:45 pm, Friday, March 29, 2013

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Bar room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Bar room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Exterior of Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Exterior of Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Exterior of Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Exterior of Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Tasting room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Tasting room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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One of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

One of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Table and chairs in one of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Table and chairs in one of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The Wyatt Earp burger with a Davidson Brothers IPA at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

The Wyatt Earp burger with a Davidson Brothers IPA at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The Wyatt Earp burger with a Davidson Brothers IPA at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

The Wyatt Earp burger with a Davidson Brothers IPA at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Main hallway decorated in NOLA Mardi Gras style in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Main hallway decorated in NOLA Mardi Gras style in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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One of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

One of the dining rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Devil's Island Pasta at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Devil's Island Pasta at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Devil's Island Pasta at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Devil's Island Pasta at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Main hallway decorated in NOLA Mardi Gras style in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Main hallway decorated in NOLA Mardi Gras style in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Tasting room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Tasting room in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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View from the tasting room showing the many doors leading into various rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

View from the tasting room showing the many doors leading into various rooms in the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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'Calico Jack' Chop at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

'Calico Jack' Chop at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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'Calico Jack' Chop at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

'Calico Jack' Chop at the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. The wine rack or "wine cell" is made from an actual jail cot from the jail in an adjacent room. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. The wine rack or "wine cell" is made from ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. The wine rack or "wine cell" is made from an actual jail cot from the jail in an adjacent room. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. The wine rack or "wine cell" is made from ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and tarot card readers. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and tarot card readers. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and tarot card readers. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union) less

The jail in the basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events, some with mediums and ... more

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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The basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

The basement of the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. This area is popular to have private parties or events. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Exterior of rear entrance to the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Exterior of rear entrance to the Gavel Grille located in an 1870?s era courthouse on Friday, March 22, 2013 in Hudson Falls, N.Y. (Lori Van Buren / Times Union)

Photo: Lori Van Buren

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Justice is served

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It's easy to see how the faded Italianate grandeur of the old Washington County Courthouse lured Scott and Jamie Beale away from the seasonal madness of Saratoga Springs after the 2011 track season.

The 1873 building, which was already outfitted as a restaurant, is rich with marble and molding, pregnant with potential and stunningly labyrinthine. That's a good thing, because Scott Beale, who's the chef, says he's far more likely to see tables of 10 to 20 show up unannounced at Gavel Grille than the deuce-by-reservation profile that was common at his previous, much smaller bistro, the Grey Gelding in Saratoga Springs.

It's hard to calculate how many diners The Gavel Grille could seat in the 10,000 square feet, because there are so many extra rooms on three levels that could be thrown into use in a pinch. The Beales seem to find improvisation a key element of the excitement of occupying such a space. They are particularly proud of some of the unusual parties they've thrown so far and the bizarre possibilities, as yet unrealized, the unique space suggests. Like the New Orleans mansions of the same architectural style, it conjures up thoughts of the supernatural and naughty.

Key imagination ticklers require a trip up or down some stairs. The iron jail cells in the basement have lately attracted "50 Shades of Grey" parties and the decadent, balconied auditorium on the top floor has been used for a ghost hunter convention. A post-prandial guided tour revealed that the bowels of the kitchen go on and on, with mini-kitchens dropped here and there to ease service when out-of-the-way nooks are booked for dinners. The walk-in cooler has been built into a jail cell, and, on the other side of the stone wall, cells are available as private tasting rooms. (To make room for tables, a few of the iron cots have been repurposed as vertical wine racks or stair rails.) The stone basement, which conjures the feeling of a European wine cellar, was in use during our tour for what looked like a bachelorette party.

Food (**1/2): Casual, pun-rich tavern menu with hearty, reasonably priced portions and a tendency toward heavy sauces. Gluten-free pastas and bread offered, as well as entrees for vegetarians and kids.

Beverage: (***): Small selection of reasonably priced wine and beers, some very good choices. Generous $7 glass pours.

Service (***): Food delivered promptly with chummy enthusiasm. Dealing with a seasonal transition, server was careful to draw attention to and get approval for any variations from the written menus and wine list. Both owners interacted with guests.

Ambience (***1/2): Large bar area with televisions and a quieter main dining room decorated with thoroughbred memorabilia. In warmer weather, tall windows in tavern area open vertically to create a breezy, summery space. Tours of the private rooms/theater/dungeons are worth the stair-climbing. On the Saturday night we visited, music was of the "Alice's Restaurant" and "Hotel California" genre.

Personality: (***): Friendly and funky. The main dining room and bar are pleasant and straightforward, and the owners were more than happy to show off the cool stuff hidden in the attic and basement.

Overall rating: ***

The menu at Gavel Grille is heavy and hearty, with an emphasis on thick sauces and puns that play on the venue's past as a home to murder trials and mayhem. The appetizers lean toward the fried: a cone of "Felony" fries ($4.95) features truffle oil and malt-vinegar aioli; "Dirty Dan" tater tots ($6.95) are molded from garlicky smashed potatoes and asiago and served with horseradish sauce; crispy beer-battered "Misdemeanor" rings come with Cajun ranch; "Johnny Ringo" fries ($6.95) are smothered in wing sauce, melted provolone and blue cheese crumbles; fried potato skins ($9.95) are filled with cheesy crab dip. There are also "Billie the Kid" and "Tall Texan" wings, "Clyde's" artichoke dip and "Bonnie's" melted brie covered with nuts, caramel, honey and apples.

Burgers run $8.95 for an unembellished Wagyu burger to $21.95 for a heart-stopping mountain of beef and lobster on a bun with provolone and sherry-butter sauce. Enigmatic concoctions on bread and rolls celebrate Sammy the Bull, Dillinger, Pablo Escobar, Bill Hickok, Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp, the Gotti family, Rufus Buck and Baby Face Boswell.

"Legs Diamond" French onion soup was rich and made with three types of onions, provolone cheese and slow-cooked strips of beef. "Lizzie Borden" house salad ($3.95) came with the intriguing option of strawberry-rhubarb vinaigrette. It was delicious, like a dessert compote, but thick and sweet for salad. The server switched it for a thick balsamic concoction. A basket of chubby phalanges of soft, confectionary bread came with the meals.

Beale was preparing for a spring menu makeover, according to the server, so there were a few discontinued items on the main menu. After she carried an order for the "Calico Jack" French bone-in pork chop with Captain Morgan rum and Gorgonzola sauce ($18.95), she came right back to advise that the pork had been switched to a boneless center cut. The smoky meat came out perfectly cooked and tender under a dense flow of cheese with a mountain of soft, candied carrot sticks flavored with a Christmas-y spice and molded triangle of smashed red potatoes.

The al dente fettucini in the "Devil's Island" pasta ($17.95) tasted fresh and had the earthy goodness of several kinds of mushrooms under the Marsala, Riesling and Parmesan sauce. A bolder hand with the cilantro and fresh herbs would have brightened the flavor.

Dinner for two — with two appetizers, a salad, two entrees, a bottle of wine and two coffees — came to $100.31 with tax, before tip.