FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM....

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This is the rightmost route on the slab area of the Crag Ranch, just right of Fenceline. The first pitch tackles a block shaped bulge and then a surprisingly smooth slab, 5.10a. The second pitch follows a sort of right facing flake system on much steeper rock with bigger holds. Overall, a fun two pitch romp.

The slab moves between the last 2 bolts on the 1st pitch felt more like 5.10c/d than 5.10a if it's hot and you don't slab climb much. The 2nd pitch has great laybacking. Get ready to use your arms as it's a lot steeper than it looks.

This is a nice 2 pitch route with varied, interesting climbing. I thought the slab on the first pitch was the crux of the route. The holds are very small, not positive, and the feet look slippery (but somehow aren't). This part has excellent protection, thankfully, as executing these moves well above a bolt would be nervewracking.

The second pitch has really cool climbing using a big hanging flake. The flake has pieces of it that sound pretty scary, so I tried to avoid gorilla tugging and just used it more to stabilize the face moves. There are a few pieces of the rotten crystal stuff, but they don't really detract from the route.