Tiny frog with Jerrill02. i haven't figured out a way to break him free of the raft without amputating his limbs. so he lives on the raft. (the frog. not Jerrill)

I tried a print with 3 of them thinking they might be better because there will be time in between loops so they will cool more. turns out for some reason no. the single one is better than the 3. this is a very small print. i set him to be 5mm high.

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Printing small

Some 1x scale prints at 100µm with the Jerrill02... also note the colour comparison with the other frog printed with a 0.5mm nozzle at 300µm. unsure why the Jerrill02 produces a lighter finish. perhaps some kind of mechanical stress at the molecular level because of such a small extrusion?

also notice at 100µm the nostrils resolve.

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Here is going the other way... small. I took part in RichRap's print something small contest on forums.reprap.org. my submission was a "toasty owl" an attempt to print small the owl in Laywoo-D3 wood filament, which is really hard to print with even large. so using Jerrill's 0.2mm nozzle, i decided to try small again. this is really pushing things but it worked. you can make out the eyes and other details. smaller than a kernel of corn...

In the last two pics, the clear frog is 0.5mm nozzle, 500µm layers 2x scale, the green is 0.2mm nozzle 100µm layers and of course our tiny toad 0.2mm nozzle 100µm layers.

by the way, that small black frog uses 6.8mm of my 3mm filament. measure that out, its pretty cool to see it as raw filament

Thanks Jerrill. the lower volume output of your nozzle helps a lot to print details. i am wondering though how a 0.1mm nozzle will work. but, can try it for sure. this definitely requires having a handle on everything, software set up and hardware fine tuning. give it a shot and let me know how it turns out. that frog is 4mm high with a scale of 16%.

Jerrill awesome job, thanks for selling these. I need to dial in my .35 nozzle first then I'll probably head down to .2 or .1. I posted your page on google+ and twitter so hopefully you get more sales.

BTW, this was my first print using KISSlicer. Slic3r mangled the little fellow pretty badly. I have to say I'm impressed with KISSlicer's continuous lines around the feet. Slic3r had toes floating in space.

I personally have access to one of those expensive 3D printers at work that made mechanical engineers swoon when we got it a few years back. They dropped about $35K on the machine. My big driver was to tighten up the tolerances of my $700 starter 3D printer (Printrbot PLUS) to beat it in terms of quality and operating cost. I think I crossed that threshold a couple of weeks ago. The one thing I can't do right now is print water soluble support material. I'm waiting for that triple extruder, Mr. Drumm, if you're watching! *ahem*

The next thing I'm going after is printing functional mechanical parts of a sufficiently small scale. I've done the gears and ball bearings made out of BB's, but I would love to print a functional clock or even a watch.

And while that's fun and all. I'm ultimately headed to outfit my Printrbot to print multi-layer circuit boards. I'm still looking for someone to produce some carbomorph (conductive to a few m-ohm/inch) filament. With a triple extruder I can have insulation (ABS or PLA), water soluable support (PVA), and conductive wires (carbomorph or other) and print 3D wired object and I can then glue electronic components on with conductive glue. THAT is something that traditional manufacturing can't do and the maximum potential of my little bot will be reached.

However, along the way it fun to learn and dial in the hardware printing tiny treefrogs! And speaking of treefrogs, plexus....

tiny-frog-2-scaled.JPG

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Here's another fun print. I experimented with an acetone vapor bath again. It was in there for 1 hour, but I kept checking it so I may have diluted the vapors. This is definitely a candidate for an even smaller nozzle.

mini-castle.JPG

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OK, so I also purchased Jerrill's awesome 2mm nozzle. Got it somewhat dialed in and decided to see if I could come close to the Tree Frog prints that Plexus was getting. They turned out pretty good for a start but I have a lot of tweaking to do.

101_0059.jpg

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Baby frog is .200"/5mm tall. 20% scale.Big brother frog is .260"/6.6mm tall. 25% scale.Right now anything smaller than that isn't looking good but I know if I tweaked it more it would work.Klein bottle is 1.05"26.6mm tall.

That's awesome. I need a smaller nozzle... And a second printhead with PVA/etc. (or a slicer able to make great support );Thank you for putting so much work into this and everyone posting pictures and insight.

//EditI really need to see Slic3r-support with a 0.2/0.15mm nozzle, I suppose it will break off easier then structure printed with 0.5mm ...

Slic3r can print using these nozzles as well. I'm just finding that I like the way that KISSlicer slices most models better. I said most. Every once in a while KISSlicer goes out into left field and really screws up the slicing. But generally Slic3r seems to generate really strange, wasteful tool paths that mess up prints with fine details and KISSlicer does not. It's really a "right tool for the right job" sort of decision. I generally slice in both and print the gcode I like best.

Exactly. I switch the nozzle from 0.5, 0.4, 0.35, 0.2 depending on what i am printing. much like tools are chucked into power drives. the printer is the same. looking forward to getting a 0.15 and 0.1 from jerril!

plexus wrote:Exactly. I switch the nozzle from 0.5, 0.4, 0.35, 0.2 depending on what i am printing. much like tools are chucked into power drives. the printer is the same. looking forward to getting a 0.15 and 0.1 from jerril!

I'm curious whether other printers have such a wide range of nozzles available. I've seen hot ends with a choice of maybe 2 sizes, but that's about it.

Brook should jump on this. It would further differentiate the Printrbot in the ever-evolving marketplace.

.35mm, .4mm, .5mm .8mm and 1mm. Working on trying to see what I can get with dualstruding smaller nozzles paired with larger ones to make up some of the print speed that would otherwise be lost by being forced to use the smaller nozzle all the time. Like with a .35mm and a .5 combo. Example: Perimeter prints done with the .35mm﻿ and every 6th to 7th layer gets infilled with a larger nozzle. Still working on it so the details are still experimental.

About 6 months ago I drilled out a nozzle, must have been close to 1mm and printed with it. The big extruder gear was spinning about 30 rpm, which was pushing a *lot* of filament. But there was so much ABS cranking out it didn't cool properly and was kind of blobby.

This was before I knew about fans, cooling, and such. Maybe I should resurrect "Fat Boy" and try again...

The object was to make big, strong brackets, and quickly; appearance be damned. .8mm layer? Sure.

Plexus will be printing 0.3mm frogs using 0.01 layers in a month or two, that Japanese company will be viewing his pictures with disbelief, and then hire both of you when they find he really does have the world's smallest printed frog collection. I hope you remember us when you go on to fame and fortune.

It's time to see how many tiny drill bits I can break on the Unimat, so I ordered a set of 0.2 to 0.5mm bits. When they're gone I'll be asking Jerrill about a set of small nozzles.

My last PlexusProject(should be a tm), a micrometer adjuster, is working great. I can't remember which direction to turn the mic to get a little more squish, but with the marking's it's easy to get it right the second time. You two should get together and add one to the store, with an optical or hall effect switch, and a turn this way for more smoosh arrow.

0.15 mm nozzles are in the store along with a couple of other new items!

And 0.05 mm and 0.10 mm drill bits were destroyed in R&D. Fortunately, I got a couple of 0.10 mm nozzles out of it to play with. Photos of 0.10 mm nozzle prints coming this week! I have my sights set on the prints from that Japanese printer. And maybe a frog or two.

Overall, it's been a good day. Hated to bust $35 in drill bits though.

Any off chance I can request a test print?The chain mail on thingiverse seems like a shoe-in example for pseudo fabric at these tiny scales!

Still trying to dial in my printer to be able to be as precise as you guys have gone so far. I don't think my Jr's extruder head wobble would perform so well with such super small movements. Once it's tight enough I'll be hopping onto that .15 train!

Have you considered making a smaller set? I imagine most people who are looking for new nozzles aren't really looking for anything larger than the one that currently comes on a new printrbot/hot end. The .4 nozzle lets you make prints pretty fast and ugly if thats what you're looking for. Heck on a 1.75 mm extruder the last nozzle would be larger than your filament. Also a few free slots in the case would be a bonus because most people already have a few nozzles with no good way to store them.

I can certainly sell the cases separately, but I was planning to post the STL files to Thingiverse after I get a couple of problems worked out in the design. Maybe this weekend?

If you still want a case in a particular color let me know and I'll try and make it. I've been getting set up to do colorized natural ABS anyhow and it'll be a good excuse to try it out. I've got limited quantities of red, blue, green, black, natural, and gold filament that I can use too. It's a 29 cubic cm print so I would probably list it for $10 or $15 plus shipping. Printing it yourself would definitely be less expensive.

Well I already bought a .2 from you and a .35 from printrbot so I'm probably not your ideal market here. But if you had already been selling sets when I bought my printrbot I would have preffered a set. A set that had a .1, .15, .2, and a .35 would be about perfect. Maybe also something between .2 and .35 and a caddy with 6 slots so you could have room for an extra nozzle down the road, or to store the one that came with your bot. I know the smaller nozzles are a lot more time consuming and costly for you to make but I would a lot more interested in a kit with 4-5 nozzles I would use for say 70-80 bucks than I would be in paying 120 for a set of 12 that I will never use the majority of. I know some people are probably still interested in the larger nozzles but they're probably not interested in paying extra for all the tiny tips.

Also gonna go ahead and double post here, but I was wondering what other mods you have done to your printer Jerrill? The tiny nozzles of course put out tiny amounts of plastic but it looks like your machine has no play in the x or y axis.

Apparently at a certain point, the extrusion becomes so slow that the varying pressure from individual teeth of the herringbone drive gear engaging starts to show up in the print. Cool on one hand. Disappointing on another. I'm reaching a practical limit with the stock extruder gear with the 0.10 mm nozzle. I was hoping to reach the maximum resolution of the steppers first.

Maybe I need to design and extruder gear with finer pitch teeth now that I can print one.

Look up "Involute Gear." It's a mathematically perfect shape for gear teeth that result in precisely continuous translation of rotation rate from one gear to the other - as if they were two disks coupled by a piece of string.

By the way, adding the 4th linear bearing to the X carriage is risky. If you don't end up with all four bearing axes exactly parallel and coincident, then there can be large internal forces in the cage. IMHO, three bearings is ideal ("three points determine a plane"). Imagine a wooden chair on a concrete floor. If one leg isn't touching the floor, then it takes a LOT of force to make it touch and share the load equally with the other legs.

I may have spoken too soon. Right after the photo was taken, the nozzle clogged and after a nice acetone bath and some compressed air I'm up and printing again and the lines are nowhere to be seen. I'm proud to say that that was my first honest to goodness clogged nozzle.

QU-BD's X-Truder also uses a pair of drive gears on both side of the filament, although the purchaser only pics look like they're still the non-hobbed gear version (I've ordered an RPM for use as a mill; not to replace my PB+). They're known for gushing enthusiasm, so be skeptical, but claim print (not non-printing moves) of 500 mm/sec on their dedicated non-mill printer.

I've been looking around for a 3d printer since November. I think this thread just made my decision for me, as I need high resolution for jewelry lost wax investments and tiny gears. Do you remember those micro RC cars from the turn of the century? I think this print quality is approaching that size.

I'm also thrilled because I think the general population is convinced this level of quality is only possible with stereo lithography. Very impressive. I get the feeling this is just the beginning.

Would the fed pitch a fit if we just print a 3d scanned quarter next to a real quarter? Seems like an excellent measure of quality. Apples to apples and all that. Oh geez. That's a dime.

I would love to run the 0.10 mm nozzle at 100 mm/sec of filament... Hmm... I think this is a Darwin Award in the making.

Jerrill

After using a .15mm nozzle from you Jerrill, and loving it, I finally got around to reprinting (to a muuuch higher accuracy level) the set of gears from the Gregs extruder. Then tried to install the hardware into said extruder, but because it was printed so fast, and heavy, all the slots, recesses and openings were undersized, and sadly, it shattered during build. That said, once I Acetone bathed the gears, they became very shmexy, and are now driving my wooden extruder. Your idea on a multi-gear multi-drive extruder sounds groovy. I am in the process now of building a drive bolt from something you guys wouldn't expect. and it's sharp, and comes with perfect, small, exact and 100% symmetrical teeth already on it. I call my drive bolt "The Judge" and I'll be sharing it with you as soon as it's running. Hand built custom hot end as well, takes your nozzles, uses the Magma heat block and cartridge/thermistor and is made from 1 piece of stainless steel.

I would love to run the 0.10 mm nozzle at 100 mm/sec of filament... Hmm... I think this is a Darwin Award in the making.

Jerrill

After using a .15mm nozzle from you Jerrill, and loving it, I finally got around to reprinting (to a muuuch higher accuracy level) the set of gears from the Gregs extruder. Then tried to install the hardware into said extruder, but because it was printed so fast, and heavy, all the slots, recesses and openings were undersized, and sadly, it shattered during build. That said, once I Acetone bathed the gears, they became very shmexy, and are now driving my wooden extruder. Your idea on a multi-gear multi-drive extruder sounds groovy. I am in the process now of building a drive bolt from something you guys wouldn't expect. and it's sharp, and comes with perfect, small, exact and 100% symmetrical teeth already on it. I call my drive bolt "The Judge" and I'll be sharing it with you as soon as it's running. Hand built custom hot end as well, takes your nozzles, uses the Magma heat block and cartridge/thermistor and is made from 1 piece of stainless steel.

This is gonna be siiiiiiiick.Stay tuned. -snowtigersustoms

First link i don't see the point,. as long as your hobbed bolt/toothed gear is clean and the compression of the bearing is correct, two digging/pushing elements are just bound to fight each-other for supremacy,. and its not like the first one can out power the second one, its the same drive train. + every time you add another gear you ad friction to the torque path, so the second one is just adding friction eating up torque. This is just bound to add weight to the extruder carriage, and having two pinch points only makes more impressions in the filament weakening it for more jams, and more air bubbles (wide teeth can cause air bubbles). Personal id focus on doing one pinch point right rather then two.

On the other hand I am highly intrigued with the second link,. weight reduction, likely no loss in grip,. but potentially to much grip, iv found when using unconventional "teeth" even a little to much force can dig to deeply into the filament and weaken it, causing more jams,. solution, be gentile with the tightening of the pinch bearing onto "deep" drive teeth. however id be slightly concerned about long term use, i feel like the tiny bearings that hold the dremmel tool aren't wide enough to distribute the force and not slowly work the plastic around them loose under heavy use, for that id recommend putting the tiny bearings inside of a 645 Nylon bushing that's the OD of a normal hobbed bolt bearing (608),. you'd still likely need to replace the nylon bushings from time to time,. but better that then the entire extruder.

Ok, time to revive this post in the hopes of finding a solution here. I've been playing around with my Jerill 0.2mm nozzle and I'm getting hung up on issues mid-print. Occasionally I'm getting material buildup on the tip, which starts accumulating until it becomes a blob that starts dragging around and ruining the print. I am trying to keep this nozzle clean, scraping away excess material with a razor before and after prints. Does anyone have any advice?

disback-I have not attempted to print this small and don't have one of Jerrill's nifty nozzles, but off the top of my head it seems that if it was either over extruding, or the extruder wasn't raising up the proper amount per layer that over time the head would end up dragging into the print. Maybe just a matter of dialing things in even more precisely?

disback wrote:Ok, time to revive this post in the hopes of finding a solution here. I've been playing around with my Jerill 0.2mm nozzle and I'm getting hung up on issues mid-print. Occasionally I'm getting material buildup on the tip, which starts accumulating until it becomes a blob that starts dragging around and ruining the print. I am trying to keep this nozzle clean, scraping away excess material with a razor before and after prints. Does anyone have any advice?

Typical troubleshooting for this kind of thing is trying to increase or decrease the temp. I'd start a print that has consistent layers, some flat areas, some thin areas, corners, curves, all the good stuff if possible. even look for a test item on thingiverse. then as it prints increase the temp. i usually do a big jump like 15-20% higher, see what happens, it it seems better, then work from there. if not then do a jump down maybe -10% from what you started with, see what happens. if nothing helps with temp. put it back to what you were printing at and mess with the speed. do this more gingerly from your base temp. in Reptier there is a slider for this. you can manually enter Gcode in real-time with M220 Sxxx where xxx is % of the base speed, which is 100%. so 125% is 25% faster, 75% is 25% slower.

The idea is to change only one variable at a time and observe changes.

You waste a lot of material and time doing this. I do. But get to know your materials!

dont know if this thread is dead... hopefully this post will bring it back to life.

I invented a new type of cold end, it does not use a hobbed bolt but a belt. I hope it will inspire a whole new type of extruders, called v-struders

One of my first customers, a goldsmid, has let me know that he was able to print without any problems with a 0.1mm nozzle using moldlay wax filament. Im now searching for a place to buy a 0.1mm nozzle or even smaller so I can confirm this myself. Anyone knows a good webshop, preferably with fast shipping?

To this moment I was only able to test the v-struder with a 0.4mm E3D nozzle. In an extrusion only test, using petg 1.75mm at 235 degrees celcius I was able to extrude up to 2 meters per minute of raw filament without any slip in a bowden configuration with a bowden tube of 1 meter long.