Overview

There are not very many formations in The Buttermilks area that can easily be top roped. Rump Rock is certainly one that can be. The approach to the top is done from the right side, as you are looking at the rock, and as it's clearly visible from the photo, there are plenty of cracks for setting up your anchor.

Well isolated from the most concentrated grouping of formations that include Skin Diver and Wrangler Rock, this small formation is located passed the backside parking area and to the right of the road. Considering the fact that most visitors to this area come for the world-famous boulders, it should come as no surprise that you may end up having the rock all to yourself all day long.

Except for a prominent crack on the left side, the rest of the routes are on the smooth face on the highest section of the rock. Looking from the bottom, you may wonder where all the holds are! The holds are really mini crystals and edges on the less-than-vertical face. These routes are protected very sparsely by one or two bolts each. Except for the crack on the left, my personal opinion is for these face routes to be top-roped, and not done on lead.

Routes of Rump Rock

A

Rumpadoodle, 10a, standard rack

B

Because It's There, 5.9, bolts, no anchor

C

Little Creatures, 5.9, bolts, no anchor

D

Mikey Likes It, 5.8, one bolt, no anchor

Getting There

Incredible views of Mount Humphreys and Emerson seen from Rump Rock

From the town of Bishop California drive seven miles on Highway 168, also known as Line Street, to its intersection with Buttermilk Road. Take this dirt road for 3.5 miles to a broken gate. To your right you will see many boulders of all sizes. These are the famous Buttermilks Boulders. Turn right after the gate and soon you will see a large clearing to your right. This is known as the “Back Parking.” From here drive another 1/4 of a mile to to a fork. Take the right fork, 7S04, for only .1 mile and park. Look up the hill to your right. Rump Rock is visible among other rocks from here.

Red Tape

No permits are required to climb on Rump Rock

Camping

Mount Humphreys, another beautiful mountain view from The Buttermilks

camping in bad style

With a huge flux of climbers from out of town, I have noticed many tents and unsightly campsites in the parking areas. This practice has been tolerated by locals and authorities, so far. These climbers use the surounding areas, and sometimes the base of boulder problems, for going to the bathroom. I am afraid this kind of abuse will eventually impact this beautiful area. In addition it may result in restriction on access.
There are many campgrounds nearby that can be used. Do your best to use the campgrounds, at least for extended stays. In addition to the nearby campgrounds, there are many unofficial campsites, some near running creeks, that can be used. In any event, camping in the parking areas is the worst to choose.