This is my current solution for a print surface. I use an aluminum MK 3 heatbed with a magnetic foil glued on top. So far the foil did not loos any of it's magnetism, even though i use it @ up to 110°C. On top of the magnetic foil i use a ferromagnetic foil on which i glued a sheet of ultem.This combination makes it super simple to remove the printplate and to remove the printed parts from it, regardless how well they stick. In the video the printed ABS sticks pretty good, but it is easy to just peel of the print surface.

Magnetic foil print surface

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Alex Skoruppa: Do you also have the Amazon article link? I only find expensive PEI sheets for 20+€....

Alex Skoruppa: +Björn Marl very cool idea using magnetic foils! Can you post some links to the foils / ultem sheet you're using? I have this Kossel Pro which is idling for a year and I think it's time for some additional mods! 🙃

As an alternative to ABS i like GreenTec from Extrudrhttps://extrudr.eu/products/copy-of-extrudr-green-tec-whiteIt has nearly all the positive properties of ABS without the drawbacks.It is similar in heat resistance and easily machineable, but different to ABS it does not warp and does not need an enclosure for bigger parts. On the downside it can not be smoothed using ABS, but on the upside it will fully biodegrade, much better than PLA.

Andreas Thorn: +Björn Marl I appreciate your posts. I usually lack the time and drive to get passed the duct-taped-paper-clip-state of my printer upgrades so while things usually work pretty well it's refreshing to see similar ideas in a more professional state :-)

Björn Marl: +Rikard Karlsson i tried several aquarium membrane pumps, they all work except the very small ones. A single 200L/h pump is good to cool a hotend. For part cooling you need more volume.

Björn Marl: +Andreas Thorn I have the drive to bring my printers to a point where i can fire and forget. Just beeing able to start a job and only look at the machine again when it's finished is what i aim for. I have that state with my old printer, but it is slow and limited in quality and what materials it can print. At the same time i want to contribute to the RepRap project, since it gave so much to me. The DuoCube and the extruder are scheduled to be made open source once i am satisfied with it. You are very welcome to add some of it to your own designs.

It seems it is not only possible, but actually pretty easy to use compressed air for part cooling. The TPU i am currently using quite a lot needs to be cooled after printing if you have small parts. The cone in the image is 40mm high and has a diameter of 2mm at the top. Without part cooling it would be an abstract sculpture, with it is pretty much perfect.Please excuse the rubbish sound in the video that shows the part cooler in action.https://youtu.be/Y7CdSyvTTuk

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Jeremie Francois: I use an aquarium pump and a very focused output, with a large, fixed 120mm fan when needed for the entire print.It really works well imho and it is much smaller and lighter than the usual moving fan.http://www.tridimake.com/2016/05/3d-printing-cooling-with-air-pump-aquarium.htmlI tried multiple pumps and the only drawback imho is I can't tune the throughput as easily as with PWM'ed fans. Well I could add a servo to pinch the latex tube ;)

Jeremie Francois: +Björn Marl​ if there was a unique best solution we would have figured it out - there were so many hackers trying so many options, and there are still new ideas popping out (admittedly at a much slower pace now than 2-5 years ago, but still...)