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Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.

The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb. 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.

The closure for Gray Rock has been lifted. The closure on North Gateway remains in effect at this time.

From the Garden of the Gods Staff (3/1/17):

The closures are in place for the Tower of Babel- please refer to the attached images. As of this posting, there are no other closures, but we anticipate closures for North Gateway and Gray Rock similar to those in years past- but we're waiting until we see confirmed nesting behavior before enacting any closures. We will update this post as closures come in to place or are lifted.

A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North gateway, depending on what we see.

UPDATE (5/22): A closure is now in effect for the North half of the East face of Gray Rock- please refer to the attached images. We are monitoring another nesting site of North Gateway, so it is possible that there may be some additional closures on North Gateway, depending on what we see.

Based on observed nesting behavior, climbing closures in effect for for North Gateway Rock/Tower of Babel and AKA Kindergarten Rock (AKA Gray Rock). We expect these closures to last until approximately August for the West Face of N. Gateway and Kindergarten Rock, and until approximately October for the Tower of Babel- we will update this thread when these closures are lifted based on observed behavior, which will ultimately determine the specific dates.If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center. Also refer to forum post for maps: mountainproject.com/v/garde…

We also want to remind the climbing community that white chalk is prohibited in the park. When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year, and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o…

Finally, we want to remind everyone that you can fill out your permit online, any time! Visit parks.coloradosprings.gov/p… to register to climb. This should only take a few minutes, and is valid until the end of the year (New Year's).

OLD CLOSURES We were notified on 10/2/15 that all bird closures have now been lifted.

Per Stewart M. Green: the Garden of the Gods Park is now open to rock climbing as of Tuesday, June 2.

Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.

Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.

This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.

The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.

Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!

Per Wesley Hermann, Park Interpreter, Garden of the Gods: All closures are lifted including Tower of Babel

Update as of 8/10/14:

Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.

Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.

Description

Start just north of the Cowboy Boot Crack ledge at ground level. Follow 4 drilled angles in a direct line. Very serious groundfall potential plus the unstable holds makes this a route I don't recommend leading. I set up TR by climbing Cowboy Boot Crack to its high anchors, rappelled directly down from there to a small belay station beneath the giant pinnacle. I used a 60m rope on TR, but I think a 50m would work. I enjoy climbing the line, though anyone who prefers their holds be solid may not. It is difficult climbing for the grade, although on TR it doesn't really matter.

Protection

4 pins, spaced very far apart. This line is for the very bold leader. Others should TR.

5 Comments

Great route! Hard, sustained, intricate - a great example of Garden face climbing. Usually don't tick a TR, but I can't imagine I'd ever lead this one. Can't agree with the X status though; a fall could result in great bodily harm, but not death.

This is not a route for the timid. please - if you plan on leading this, take tidrick's up and rap to Warren Johnson. long pants and shirt are highly recommended, and still expect to be a walking, bloody-meat stick at the end of the day. truly, it is fairly well protected, and will force you to be comfortable with your feet. feel free to stretch long and across for those holds - if they look good, they usually are. not attempt if you don't want your car seats to have blood stains on them. finish with a cold beer and hot pizza.
Sep 4, 2004

S&$#!! If I ever see someone leading this route I am going to go ahead and call 911 and get them on the way. I say that I with a fair amount of seriousness too. Anyways, here is my two cents on the route. I would definitely lead up one of the routes on the Cowboy Boot face (Cowboy Boot Crack-5.6, Trigger Finger-5.9/5.10, Unzipped-5.7). If you climb either of the first two, rap to your left under the rock to two large eyebolts. Then rap down the face to the ground. The route more or less starts in the middle of the Winter Warmer bouldering area. It is a meandering, sustained route that goes through a brief phase of semi-solid rock at the bottom to crap to the solid Boot face rock. Wander back and forth following what holds you can. Like I said, it seems that there is a fair amount of traversing in the bottom 2/3s of the route. To be fair there is a good share of really fun, grin and bear, go for it type moves. Just be careful as a belayer, expect a nice GoG sand shower during your belay.But for the most part a route worth doing only once, if you are bored.
Nov 12, 2003