Siduri Wines: A Modest Winery with an Ambitious Range

Adam and Dianna Lee are accomplished self-taught winemakers who operate out of a modest warehouse in
an industrial park in Santa Rosa, a no frills operation where the emphasis is on the wines. Since a quite launch
in 1994 consisting all of 107 cases of Pinot Noir, the Lees have found an ambitious and changing number of
excellent vineyard sources for Pinot Noir stretching all the way from Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains in the
northern Willamette Valley to the Santa Rita Hills in California’s southern Central Coast. Their winery holds the
distinction of producing more unique Pinot Noir bottlings than any other boutique winery in California. Adding
to their impressive Pinot Noir offerings, the Lees also produce Syrah, Chardonnay and other varietals under the
Novy Family Wines label, named after Dianna’s family, the Novys.

Siduri’s rise to success has been meteoric with critics fawning over the winery’s Pinot Noirs since the first
release. Robert Parker, Jr., has called Siduri, “One of California’s top Pinot Noir producers,” and Matt Kramer
has said, “To taste Siduri is to taste some of the best Pinot Noirs made in American today.”

Siduri has always been committed to quality. Grapes are purchased by the acre and crops are rigorously
thinned. All work in the winery is hands-on with a commitment to top cooperage sources, and all wines are
bottled unfined and unfiltered if possible. Stylistically, the Pinot Noirs have been generally full-bodied, fruit- driven
and Caliesque in style, yet balanced and consistently reflective of their vineyard sources and vintages.
The logistics of producing so many individual wines is daunting and occasionally a wine misses the mark, but
the majority of Siduri’s production is first rate. A commendable achievement to say the least.

Over the years the Lees have modified their original hedonistic style of Pinot Noir, now offering more restrained
and nuanced wines that I find much more appealing and easily recommendable. According to John Haeger, in
his book, Pacific Pinot Noir, “Siduri Pinots seem to me to be the original poster children for a category of
hedonistic, expressive, fruit-sweet, nicely textured, appealing American Pinots that would be popularized by
producers such as DuMOL and Testarossa. Meanwhile, Siduri itself seems to have evolved toward slightly
soberer, more elegant wines that are more expressive of their individual terroirs.” Perhaps, more attractive, is
the fact that Siduri has not achieved the cult status reserved for some hi-brow California producers, and you
can actually buy the wines, often at very sensible prices. The Lees have raised their prices little over the years
and offer wines in every price range from under $20 to $70 among the 7,500+ cases of wine they produce
annually.

For the full story on Siduri, refer to previous features in the PinotFile.

Winemaking at Siduri is in line with other premium Pinot Noir producers. Many wines are made from 100% destemmed
fruit, with whole cluster inclusion determined by lignification of the stems and the grape source and
vintage. Primary fermentations are driven by both resident and inoculated yeast, malolactic fermentations are
naturally conducted if possible. The wines are aged 10 to 18 months in French oak barrels and bottled unfined
and unfiltered. Ryan Zepaltas has been the assistant winemaker for several years.

I recently sampled a number of new 2009 Siduri Pinot Noir releases representing select appellation and
vineyard-designate bottlings. The appellation bottlings are all solid wines that represent great value. They all
show admirable balance and easy drinkability. Choosing between them boils down to personal taste. The
vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs are a step up in texture, layering, flavor intensity and sophistication. The Lees
are happy with the 2009 vintage in California, “We think it provided a great combination of richness and
backbone and it seems like a vintage that will age successfully.”

14.1% alc., 2,657 cases, $20, screw cap. A blend of several wellknown
vineyards (Van der Kamp, Sapphire Hill, Sonatera and others) and clones (Martini, 667, 777, 115,
Pommard and Mt. Eden).
·An appealing perfume of spiced black cherries and raspberries with oak in the
background, fading some over time in the glass. Moderately intense black cherry core with some strawberry
and pomegranate flavor in the background. A little earthy and oak influenced with a finish that is a little shallow.
A back porch Pinot that is definitely worth the tab. Decent.

14.3% alc., 1,132 cases, $30, screw cap.
·Prototypical
Russian River Valley nose of Bing cherry and baking spice with a medium-weighted core of tasty and
richly flavored dark cherries. The tannins are restrained and a touch of oak in the background is
complimentary. A solid drinker. Good (+).

14.2% alc., 247 cases, $48.
·Subdued but alluring perfume of
strawberries, red cherries, cream soda and dried rose petals. Delicious
and vivid cherry and berry flavors with hints of baking spice and oak. A
hi-collared wine with a lovely mouthfeel, comforting finesse, and a bright
pop of cherry on the finish. This vineyard continues to impress.

14.2% alc., 298 cases, $50. Siduri is entering the second decade of
working with this vineyard. A combination of Pisoni selection on 5C
rootstock (33% whole cluster, indigenous fermentation), and Pisoni
selection on 3309 rootstock (15% whole cluster, inoculated with a
Williams Selyem winery yeast isolate).
·Enticing aromas of black
cherries, deeply colored berries and cola. A lip smacker with oodles of
fruit that saturates the palate and persists on the finish with a clinging
vengeance. Soft and smoothly textured, this is a kick-ass Pinot that will bring
you to your knees.

Siduri Wines are sold primarily through a mailing list at www.siduri.com, but many larger production wines are
in retail and restaurant distribution. An informative newsletter is sent out monthly. The wines are released
throughout the year. A personal tasting experience is offered at the winery by appointment, 10:00 AM to 3:00
PM, seven days a week. Phone 707-578-3882 or e-mail at vino@siduri.com. In 2010, Siduri was named
“Sonoma County’s Best Winery” by the San Francisco Chronicle online poll.