Château La Roque

The picturesque landscape surrounding the historic Château La Roque appears largely unchanged from how it must have been two thousand years ago. Ownership has changed hands many times since the Romans were first here, yet the soul of this special place remains in tact. Romans were said to have planted the first vines, and Benedictine Monks created the sturdy vaulted-ceiling cellars that still house the bottles today. Winegrowing resumed in the thirteenth century when the de la Roque brothers planted new vines. By the 15th century, another branch of the de la Roque family added glass blowing to the farm’s production. Today, Château La Roque is in the capable hands of Cyriaque Rozier, who converted the domaine to organic (certified in 2004) and now biodynamic (certified in 2011) viticulture, as planned by his mentor, previous owner, and Languedoc legend, Jack Boutin. Cyriaque makes the wine both here and at Château Fontanès. Though the property has responded to circumstance, its destiny seems irrevocably intertwined with its vines.

Thirty-two of the Château’s eighty hectares are consecrated to terraced vineyard land with south-southeast sun exposure, on clay and limestone soils. This is unique terroir. Garrigue, the aromatic scrub brush that dominates the landscapes of the South, asserts its presence among these vines. Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, the noble varietals that Jack Boutin planted here years ago, make up the reds. The whites include Viognier, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Marsanne. In the wise words of KLWM salesperson and legend, Michael Butler, “Lay down a few cases of history.”

MISCELLANEA

A TRIBUTE TO JACK BOUTIN by Kermit Lynch

Jack replanted the slopes with noble varieties like Mourvèdre and Syrah and never let the craze for blockbusters influence him. His was the Languedoc wine I found myself reaching for most often because I knew it would not assault my palate. On the contrary, it pampered my palate. I had a 1989 the other night with some winemakers and the wine was not only alive and well at twenty years old, it was also delicious drinking, generous and fine. When he and his son had a relation-ending falling out, and then his doctors had trouble healing a leg injury that caused him more and more anguish, he made the decision to sell the château. I tried to talk him out of it. He tried to talk me into buying it! I was tempted. I considered it a jewel in so many ways. Now Cyriaque Rozier, Jack’s second in command during the last few years, is doing a great job of continuing the adventure at La Roque that began back with the Romans, if not before.