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The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa and is the single most popular attraction in Iceland.

The water is rich in silica and sulphur that helps make your skin shine like a baby. The Blue Lagoon also operates a Research and Development facility that helps find cures for skin ailments using the mineral-rich water.

The temperature in the bathing and swimming area is very comfortable, and averages 37–39 °C (98–102 °F). There´s a restaurant there and it´s a truly romantic and beautiful place one should not miss while in Iceland.

The Golden Circle is a 300 kilometre (186 mile) route to the three most popular natural attractions in Iceland: the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.

This sightseeing trail is easy to do within half a day from Reykjavík, either by self-drive or on one of many tours. Some of these tours have additional activities, such as snorkelling or snowmobiling, or are conducted in a unique style, such as by helicopter, or under the midnight sun.

Within the three locations of the Golden Circle are some of the clearest examples of Iceland’s fascinating geological forces, magnificent landscapes, and rich culture.

The Geysir Geothermal Area

Though this feature is currently in a phase of inactivity, its neighbour Strokkur more than makes up for it. Every five to ten minutes, it blasts a column of boiling water to heights that can reach over 40 metres (131 feet).

The surrounding area is dotted with fumaroles, hot springs, and mud-pits. There are also two other smaller geysers, Smiður and Litlí-Strokkur, that can be easily visited, as well as a hotel, restaurant, cafe and gift shop across the road.

Gullfoss Waterfall

The 'Golden Waterfall', Gullfoss one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls in Iceland, plummeting 32 metres (105 feet) in two tiers into the river gorge of the popular rafting river Hvítá. It is just a ten-minute drive from Geysir and is the furthest point on the Golden Circle from Reykjavík.

Gullfoss was very almost lost in the early 20th century when British developers sought to harness its incredible power for geothermal energy. Though they got the lease to the land, allowing them to go ahead with their plans, they met an unlikely adversary: the daughter of the farmer who owned it, Sigríður Tómasdóttir.

This resilient woman refused to see the waterfall, to which she and her sisters paved the first path, destroyed. She, therefore, walked over 200 kilometres (124 miles) to Reykjavík and back multiple times to meet with a lawyer in order to help change the decision.

Though the process was arduous and took years, eventually Sigríður managed to exhaust the resources of the businessmen and they withdrew their plans. Because of her, all Icelandic waterfalls are now protected from foreign investors, and she is considered one of Iceland’s first environmentalists and most important historical people.

Thingvellir National Park

The largest attraction of the Golden Circle is Þingvellir National Park. The Icelandic parliament was founded here in 930 and remained until the year 1798 before moving to Reykjavík, making it the original site of what is now the world’s longest ongoing parliament.

Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important places to visit in Iceland. This is not just for its historical and cultural values, but for also its magnificent landscape and dramatic geology.

Þingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain and volcanic ranges, as it is located in a rift valley directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This makes it one of the few places in the world where you can walk between the continents, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift.

The daring and qualified even have opportunities to snorkel or scuba dive in this no-mans-land, in a ravine filled with crystal-clear spring water called Silfra. The visibility here can exceed 100 metres (328 feet), revealing incredible geological sites. Though it never freezes over due to the constant flow of water into it, it is 2°C (35°C) throughout the year, thus underwater explorers are always equipped with protective suits.

Other sites of note are the magnificent Almannagjá gorge, which you can walk down into to reach the rift valley from the North American tectonic plate, and the beautiful lake Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland, which gleams to the south of the National Park.

East Iceland is a vast area of incredible nature, striking contrasts and fascinating history and culture. It is home to the remote and beautiful East Fjords, many small fishing villages, and an array of wildlife.

Services in East Iceland

East Iceland has just a few settlements with significant services. The main one of these, considered to be the capital of the region, is Egilsstaðir.

Egilsstaðir has restaurants, museums, shops, petrol stations and an array of accommodation options to suit all budget. It is also home to an airport, meaning those with limited time or without a driving licence can easily reach it from Reykjavík.

Seydisfjörður is another settlement of significance, with services for travellers, and a ferry that goes to Scandinavia. Djúpivogur is another wonderful town that visitors can refresh at.

East Iceland is home to the Karahnjúkar Hydroelectric Power Station, which provides many of the towns with energy. The construction of this has led to hot debates on Iceland’s ecological footprint and continues to do so considering that it provides fuel to a controversial aluminium smelter nearby.

Nature of East Iceland

East Iceland is characterised by many fjords, surrounded by steep mountains. Fishing villages can be found nestled in most of them.

Inland, however, is just as beautiful, with much of it being a fertile agricultural area. Woodlands of birch can be found here, the most famous being Hallormsstadaskogur, the largest forest in Iceland.

By this forest, and the town of Egilsstaðir, is the lake Lagarfljót, said to hold a terrible monster.

Many rivers run through the district, and by their estuaries, colonies of seals may be found. The fertile waters also provide food to whales and dolphins, which can infrequently be seen from sure.

The impressive mountain Snӕfell, Iceland's highest freestanding peak, can be found in the east. Near here is the highland oasis Eyjabakkar, one of the largest nesting place for the pink footed goose in the world.

Reindeer roam the mountains of East Iceland, and this is the only place they can be found. Initially brought over for farming, the industry was never lucrative, and they have roamed free ever since.

Many migratory birds are found both inland and in the cliffs in summer, including the elusive puffin.

Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier, stretches to the borders of East Iceland and can be seen across much of it.

Culture of East Iceland

Of particular cultural note in the Fljótsdalshérað district is the cultural and historical centre Skriðuklaustur. In the Middle Ages, a monastery stood here, making it the region’s religious centre. In the 20th century, Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson made it his home.

Gunnar wrote many masterpieces, including Adventa, or The Good Shepherd, Svartfugl, or The Black Cliffs, Saga Borgaraettarinnar, or The Saga of the One Eyed Guest, and the autobiographical novel cycle Fjallkirkjan, which has been translated under different names, such as The Church on the Mountain,Ships in the Sky and The Night and the Dream.

The culture of the East today is largely defined by festivals. Seydisfjörður hosts the annual music festival LungA. The settlement of Neskaupsstadur also hosts two highly popular annual festivals, Neistaflug and Eistnaflug.

It is divided by many fjords and mountain ranges, into many beautiful regions.

Eyjafjörður

Within the bay of Eyjafjörður is the Capital of the North, Akureyri, a town of 17,000 inhabitants. It is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area.

It is easy to reach via the Ring Road, and many cruise ships land in the port of the town.

The older part of Akureyri is particularly worth a stroll, with many historic buildings. The town is also home to many interesting museums, galleries, and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens.

If you like skiing or snowboarding, one of the best skiing sites in the country is located nearby.

Siglufjörður

Siglufjörður straddles the border of Eyjafjörður and Skagafjörður, and is most famously home to a charming settlement of the same name.

Other than its natural beauty, with huge cliffs bordering the town, Siglufjörður is renowned for its fascinating museums.

There is a folk music museum, which comes alive during an annual festival, and the Herring Era Museum. This is the only Icelandic museum to win an international award and is much more interesting than it sounds; it explains how Iceland managed to survive a millennium in such harsh climes by relying on the seas.

The Vatnsnes Peninsula

The Vatnsnes Peninsula gets its fame for two reasons. Firstly, it is the best seal-watching location in the whole country, with colonies hauling out throughout the year. In the town of Hvammstangi, you can visit the Icelandic Seal Centre to learn more about these animals.

It is also famous for hosting the coastal rock formation of Hvítserkur. This bizarre feature is said to be a troll frozen in the light of the morning sun, but to most, appears to be more like an elephant drinking.

Þingeyjarsýsla

Þingeyjarsýsla county is home to many incredible sites, particularly due to the fact that the Lake Mývatn region is nestled within it. This beautiful area is renowned for its lava formations, pseudocraters and rich birdlife.

Near Mývatn is the impressive lava field Dimmuborgir, which featured in the Game of Thrones series. There is also the incredible waterfall Goðafoss, a beautiful feature between the lakes and Akureyri.

Husavík is a nearby town, considered the whale watching capital of Europe. In summer, many operators see Humpback Whales every time they leave the port.

Grimsey

Far north, straddling the Arctic Circle is Grímsey island, the northernmost inhabited territory of Iceland, with a population of about 100 people. It is renowned for its fishing, its rich vegetation and birdlife, particularly puffins.

West Iceland is home to the country’s capital city, Reykjavík, and an array of impressive natural sites. These include Europe's most powerful hot spring, Iceland's most significant lava tube, fascinating glaciers, beautiful waterfalls important historical sites and more. It has three main districts outside of the capital area: Borgarfjörður, the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, and Breiðafjörður.

Though also in the west, the Westfjords and Reykjanes Peninsula are considered to be in separate regions.

The Capital Area

Iceland’s capital city is Reykjavík, a settlement of 120,000 people (over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík Area) that was founded in 870 AD by Ingólfur Arnarson; this makes it the country’s oldest inhabited area.

It is a hot spot of culture, with festivals such as Sónar, Airwaves and Secret Solstice, events such as Pride and Culture Nights, and countless museums and galleries. The city is also renowned for its vibrant live music, cabaret and drag scenes, its street art, many sculptures, and its delicious cuisine.

Reykjavík is where most visitors base themselves and the point from which most tour leaves. There is a comprehensive guide to Reykjavík on this site.

Borgarfjörður

Borgarfjörður is the fjord north of Reykjavík, within which is a wealth of beautiful historical and natural sites. Reykholt, for example, is a tiny village where medieval historian and poet Snorri Sturluson, author of Snorra-Edda and Heimskringla, once lived. Borgarnes, the main village of Borgarfjörður, is one of Iceland’s earliest towns, and home to the fascinating Settlement Centre.

In terms of nature, Borgarfjörður is home to the second highest waterfall in the country, Glymur. Other beautiful waterfalls include the magical and peaceful Hraunfossar and the raging rapids of Barnafoss which lie only a stone's throw apart. The area is also home to the longest lava cave in the country, Viðgelmir, the highest flowing hot spring in Europe, Deildartunghver, and just inland is Iceland’s second biggest glacier, Langjökull.

Snӕfellsnes

The Snӕfellsnes peninsula is a marvellous stretch of land in west Iceland. It is home to a unique mountain ridge with the majestic Snӕfellsjokull glacier and National Park at its westernmost point.

The region is often called Iceland in miniature due to its diverse sites, which include beautiful mountains such as Kirkjufell, geological wonders such as the Gerðuberg cliffs, and coastal formations such as Lóndrangar rock pinnacles.

Breiðafjörður

Breiðafjörður is the fjord that separates the Westfjords from the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. It is a natural reserve with countless small islands and home to thousands of birds, including puffins.

The inner part of Breiðafjörður is the old farm site Eiriksstadir, the home of Eric the Red, the first European to land in Greenland, in the year 984 AD. His son was Leif Ericsson, the first European to land in America, in the year 1000.

Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of a sovereign state in the world.

Despite a small population (120.000 and more than 200.000 in the Greater Reykjavik area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors. It is the financial, cultural and governmental center of Iceland. It also has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

Geography

The city of Reykjavik is located in southwest Iceland by the creek of the same name. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal. Much of the current city area area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Alftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea. After the end of the ice age the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

The coastline of Reykjavik is set with peninsulas, coves, straights and islands, most notably the island of Videy, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful. Mount Esja is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavik and lends its distinct feature to the whole area. This majestic mountain is also highly popular for climbing. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skardsheidi and on clear days one may even see as far to the legendary Snaefellsjokull glacier, at the end of the Snafellsnes peninsula.

The largest river to run through the city is Ellidaa in Ellidaardalur valley, which is also one of Iceland‘s best rivers for salmon fishing.

Transportion

There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the center and Sundahofn in the east. The domestic Reykjavik Airport is located at Vatnsmyrin, not far from the city center and close to Oskjuhlid and Perlan. The international Keflavik Airport at Midnesheidi heath then lies around 50 km from the city. Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered.

What to See & Do in Reykjavik

The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with both annual events and single ones, many of whom have hit the international stage. For the annual ones please check our articles Best Annual Events in Iceland and the Top Ten Festivals in Iceland. Major events taking place in Reykjavik include the Iceland Airwaves, Gay Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavik International Film Festival), The Reykjavik Literature Festival, Cultural Night, the Reykjavik Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavik Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

Among famous people from Reykjavik are artists Bjork Gudmundsdottir, Sigur Ros, writers Halldor Laxness (born in Laugarvegur) and Arnaldur Indridason and mayor Jon Gnarr. For more well-known and fairly-well known Icelanders, check our article on the subject.

You might also want to check our article on some of the many things to see and do in Reykjavik, such as visiting the city‘s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, checking out live music, visiting the Harpa music hall or the theaters, visiting the lighthouse at Grotta, the main shopping street of Laugavegur, visiting the old harbour and the flea market, going on a bird- and whalewatching tour or visiting Videy island. We also have a top ten list of things to do.

Make sure to visit the publis square of Austurvollur, one of the city‘s most popular gathering places, where you‘ll also find the national parliament, Althingi, the state church a statue of independence hero Jon Sigurdson, as well as cafés, bars and restaurants. Austurvollur was central in the 2008 protests, along with Laekjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrimskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skolavorduholt, wherefrom you‘ll get a great view of the city.

Try a walk by the city pond, greet the many birds that frequent the area and visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. The Hljomaskalagardur is a beautiful park that lies by the pond, it ideal for a nice walk and sometimes concerts get held there. Further off is the campus of the university of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmyri wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful of not disturbing the wildlife there and keep to the pathways.

For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nautholsvik beach.

Visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city‘s best swimming pools, as well as the Asmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo. A walk by the Aegissida beach, with it‘s old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavik also holds a particular charm. The aforementioned Elllidaardalur valley is also a popular resort.

Another place that offers one of the city‘s best (and free) views is Perlan, up in Oskjuhlid hill. The hill itself is a popular resort, with over 176.000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling.

Travel to Alftanes to see the president‘s house at Bessastadir, which is also a historical site in it‘s own right, having been the educational center of Iceland for centuries. Nearby is a beautiful lava field, Galgahraun, well worth a visit, though there is currently an environmental struggle going on as to it‘s future state.

The city is furthermore a short drive from many of Iceland‘s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you‘ll also find the Heidmork preservation area, a favorite passtime resort of the people of Reykjavik, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland‘s most beloved skiing venues.

Finally, we‘d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavik. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you‘ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

Akureyri, ‘The Capital of the North’ is a town in the fjord Eyjafjörður in North Iceland. It lies just 100 kilometres (62 miles) away from the Arctic Circle. It is Iceland’s second-largest urban area with a population of about 17,800.

Economy

Akureyri is an important fishing centre and port, but in the last few years, tourism, industry, higher education and services have become the fastest growing sectors of the economy.

An airport is located about three kilometres (two miles) from the centre and a large number of cruise ships lay anchor in its busy harbour.

Traditionally Akureyri has survived on fisheries and some of Iceland’s largest fishing companies such as Samherji, have their headquarters there. Other large companies are also based here, such as Vifilfell hf, the largest brewery in Iceland, which produces the famous Kaldi beer.

FSA/Akureyri Hospital is a significant employer in the area and is one of two major hospitals in Iceland.

Akureyri has excellent facilities for travellers and is located a short drive from many of Iceland’s top natural, cultural and historical attractions. Additionally, one of Iceland's best skiing sites is found by Akureyri, at Hlíðarfjall and it is the location for Ak Extreme, an annual skiing and snowboarding festival.

Nature & Landscape

Akureyri is surrounded by mountains, the highest one being Kerling at 1,538 metres (5,064 feet). The area around it has rich agriculture and a beautiful mountain ring.

The island of Hrísey sits in the middle of Eyjafjörður and Grímsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle; both islands belong to the municipality of Akureyri. Hrísey is often called 'The Pearl of Eyjafjörður’ and Grímsey 'The Pearl of the Arctic', and these beautiful and peaceful islands are highly popular with travellers.

Both are also home to many puffins.

Furthermore, Akureyri is a very popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Lake Mývatn. This is one of the country’s most popular destinations, due to its incredible natural beauty, intense geothermal activity, a wealth of birdlife and many surrounding sites, including Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.

The convenience of Akureyri is added to by its position on the Icelandic Ring Road, a route that encircles the country, passing almost every major destination. This means that reaching it from Reykjavík is little trouble, even in winter and the journey takes just under five hours.

History & Culture

During World War II, Akureyri was an essential site for the Allies and the town grew considerably after the war, as people increasingly moved to urban areas.

Akureyri has an active cultural scene, with several bars and renowned restaurants as well as frequent concerts and shows. During the summer there are several notable festivals in Akureyri and its surroundings such as the Vaka Folk festival.

Sites of interest in Akureyri include the brand-new Hof concert hall, many museums and the Christmas house which is open all year round.

The city boasts the world's northernmost botanical gardens which are located close to the swimming pool which is worth a visit.

Akureyrarkirkja church sits in a prized position halfway up the hill upon which most of the city is built. It was completed in 1940 and was designed by one of Iceland's most famous architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who also was also responsible for arguably Iceland's most famous church, Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík.

Jokulsarlon is a glacier lagoon in the south of Vatnajokull national park that is easily reached by the Ring Road.

Covered in thick glacial ice until the 1930’s when the glacier started retreating, the lagoon today measures 7 square miles (20 km2). More than 300 feet of ice still breaks away each year, reshaping the lagoon and filling it with icebergs - causing an alarmingly beautiful sight.

The water is freezing cold and contains a mixture of salt and freshwater giving it a blue-green color. There is plenty of fish and birdlife by the lagoon and the vast sand area of Breiðamerkursandur, and hundreds of seals stay there in winter.

Vatnajokull is the largest glacier in Europe covering 8% of the island of Iceland. Vatnajokull National Park - which encompasses the earlier national parks of Skaftafell and Jokulsargljufur - is the largest protected area in Europe and believed by many to be the most beautiful place on earth.

In this area you'll find some of the most stunning and diverse sights in iceland. Among those are Iceland's highest peak, Hvannadalshnjukur, its most active volcano, Grimsvotn, beautiful waterfalls such as Svartifoss by Skaftafell and Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, stunning canyons such as Jokulsargljufur and Asbyrgi, and the breathtaking Jokulsarlon, an ice-riddled glacier lagoon that is one of the most beautiful attractions in Iceland.

Vatnajokull glacier

The glacier itself covers a surface area of about 100 km2. The thickness of the ice is generally around 400-600 meters, at its thickest around 950 meters. Under the glacier are valleys, mountains and plateuas as well as active volcanoes, most notably Grimsvotn and Bardarbunga, both the largest and most active of these. Then there are Esjufjoll, a glorious volcanic mountain island, surrounded by the glacier on all sides.

Vatnajokull has over 30 outlets, some of the major ones being Dyngjujokull and Bruarjokull to the north and Breidamerkurjokull, Oraefajokull, Skeidararjokull and Sidujokull towards the south. On the west side from the north are smaller glaciers Eyjabakkajokull, Hoffelssjokull, Flaajokull Heinabergsjokull and Skalafellsjokull.

The highest peak of Iceland then lies to the south, Hvannadalshnjukur in the Orafeajokull outlet, reaching 2109 m, according to latest measurements.

Many rivers have their sources at Vatnajokull, including some of the greatest glacier rivers in the country. To the North are Jokulsa a Fjollum and Skjalfandafljot, to the Northeast are Jokulsa a Bru, and Jokulsa i Fljotsdal and to the south are Jokulsa i Loni, Honrfjardarfljot, Jokulsa a Breidamerkursandi, Skeidara, Nupsvotn, Hverfisfljot and Skafta.

Vatnajokull National Park

The area around the glacier is highly varied. The highland plateu to the north is divided by glacier rivers which see massive floods in the summer. This is a highly volcanic region, where the volcanoes Askja, Herdubreid, Kverkfjoll and Snaefell tower over the scene. In this area is also the Jokulsargljufur preservation area with its magnficent canyon and the mighty glacier ricer Jokulsa a Fjollum where you'll find stunning waterfalls such as Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall. Further north are the Hljodaklettar echoing caves and the horse shoe-shaped Asbyrgi canyon, among other incredible sights.

Broad wetlands lie near the glacier and in the vicinity of Snaefell, further east. Particularly notable is the Eyjabakkar oasis, one of the largest nesting places for pink feeted geese in the world and located north of the Eyjabakkajokull outlet. To the east is also the stunning Jokulsarlon.

South of Vatnajokull, majestic mountain ridges characterise the scene, with outlet glaciers lying between them and reaching onto the lowlands. The Skaftafell preservation area is located there, with its rich flora and home to the beautiful waterfalls Hundafoss and Skogafoss, the latter famed for its with its magnificent columnar basalt formations.

To the south lies the vast sand desert Skeidararsandur, reaching all the way to the sea. The glacier river Skeidara runs through it and the sand was indeed created by great glacier bursts from Skeidara, with its origins in volcanic activity at Grimsvotn.

To the west of Vatnajokull there is strong volcanic activity as well. Some of the world's greatest fissure and lava eruptions happened there, at the Eldgja volcanic chasm and the Lakagigar craters in the 18th century. Vonarskard pass, to the northwest is also worth checking out, a highly colourful geothermal area that connects the North and South of Iceland.

In popular culture

Fans of the James Bond films might recognize the glacier from A View to a Kill and the stunning Jokulsarlon from Die Another Day, though the events of the former were supposed to take place in Siberia.

Scenes by the Wall in the HBO fantasy series Game of Thrones were also shot by Vatnajokull and further scenes were shot at lake Myvatn, another Iceland's major attractions.

Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.

Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.

Geology

Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.

Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.

The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.

Wildlife

Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.

In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.

Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.

In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.

Surrounding sites

Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.

It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.

Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.

Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.

To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.

Dimmuborgir (e. ‘Black Forts') is a large area of chaotic lava, situated right east of Lake Myvatn, in North Iceland. With its dramatic view, Dimmuborgir is one of Iceland's most popular attractions.

The area is composed of various volcanic caves and rock formations, reminiscent of an ancient collapsed citadel. In folklore the Dimmuborgir lava field has been connected with hell, Satan was to have landed there after being cast from heaven and the Norwegian symphonic black metal band derives its name from the region.

Husavik in Skjalfandi Bay in North Iceland is called the whale watching capital of the world.

Whale watching is highly recommended from Húsavík and visiting the village whale museum. Other places that visitors might like to visit are the wooden Húsavíkurkirkja church, built in 1907, and the civic museum for culture and biology, which amongst other things features a stuffed polar bear and ancient boats, bearing witness to the history of seafaring in Iceland.

In Húsavík you'll find cute cafés and restaurants offering tasty treats, and you'll have a gorgeous view over the Skjálfandi Bay from this small town of about 2,000 inhabitants.

Dettifoss is a waterfall found in North Iceland, said to be the most powerful in Europe. It is regularly visited on Diamond Circle tours and should not be missed by any visiting the region.

Geography

Dettifoss is fed by the powerful glacier river Jökulsá á Fjöllum which flows from the largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull. The thunderous falls has an average waterflow of 193 metres cubed per second (6,186 cubic feet). It is 100 metres (330 feet) wide and plummets 45 metres (150 feet) down into Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.

This canyon is in the northern part of the greater Vatnajökull National Park, the greatest national park in the country, thus Dettifoss is well protected.

Also within this canyon, fed by the river of Jökulsá á Fjöllum, are two more impressive waterfalls, Selfoss (not to be mistaken with the southern town of the same name) and Hafragilsfoss.

Surrounding Sites

Dettifoss is located to the Ring Road that encircles Iceland, bypassing only the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west. This means that it is easy to drive to year-round, although you will need a four-wheel-drive to reach it in winter.

The most significant settlement near Dettifoss is the town of Akureyri, or ‘the Capital of the North’. With over ten thousand people, it is the largest town outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area. It is an excellent place to stop and rest for those visiting the north or encircling Iceland.

Another town of significance in the area is Húsavík, a coastal town that has began to boast the title of having the best whale watching in all of Europe. In summer, operators usually have 100 percent success rates in terms of sightings. The most common species are humpback and minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises, although blue, fin, sei, beaked, pilot, beluga and killer whales are seen on rare occasions.

Between Akureyri and Dettifoss is the Lake Mývatn area. This beautiful expanse is renowned for it wealth of flora and fauna, particularly its birdlife; dozens of species can be found here, particularly the charming Eider Duck.

It is also renowned for its spectacular geology, with its pseudocraters, basalt pillars, and particularly the lava ‘fortress’ of Dimmuborgir, which is said to be the home of Iceland’s thirteen ‘Santas’, who are traditionally vindictive trolls more than they are jolly gift-givers.

Dimmuborgir and Mývatn were both used as a set in the Game of Thrones franchise, for many scenes North of the Wall. Dettifoss, meanwhile, was used in the opening scene of the 2012 film Prometheus, where the black rocks and dramatic scenery allowed it to represent an alien landscape.

Another waterfall sits on the Ring Road between Akureyri and Mývatn: Goðafoss. Though not as great as Dettifoss, its history is deeper; it was here, in 1000 AD, that Iceland’s lawspeaker marked the country’s shift from believing in the Old Norse Gods to believing in Christianity.

North of Dettifoss, one can find the incredible canyon of Ásbyrgi. This canyon is shaped like a giant horseshoe, and filled with verdant greenery. It is so perfectly formed and dramatic that it was originally believed to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged horse of the Old Norse God Odin.

The Snaefellsjokull national park has many famous sites, with the magnificent Snaefellsjokull as its crown jewel.

Along with the glacier, attractions include the two basalt cliffs called Londrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djupalonssandur creek, such as the arch rock Gatklettur. At Djupalonssandur you may also has test your strength on the four stones, Amlodi ('Useless'), Halfdraettingur ('Weakling'), Halfsterkur (Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength'). The Saxholl volcano crater is worth checking out and so are the many fascinating caves, such as 'the singing cave' Songhellir, called so due to its echoes and the Vatnshellir lava tube. We do adwise uttermost caution when entering the caves and to enter them with a seasoned guide. Snaefellsjokull itself features strongly in folklore and was the site for Jules Verne’s A Journey to the Center of the Earth.

Skogafoss is one of the biggest and most beautiful waterfalls of the island with an astounding width of 25 meters and a drop of 60 meters.

This is one of the most popular waterfalls in Iceland for travellers to visit. It is located in South Iceland, not far from Skogar, which itself features a highly interesting regional museum. Due to the amount of spray the waterfall often produces a single or double rainbow on sunny days.

Geysir is a famous hot spring in Haukadalur valley in South Iceland. Part of the ‘Golden Circle', Geysir gives its name to hot springs all over the world.

Though Geysir itself is hardly active anymore, the area features spectacular hot springs such as the powerful Strokkur, which spouts a vast amount of water every 10 minutes, around 15-20 meters into the air, Smidur and Litli-Strokkur.

North of Geysir are fumaroles, i.e. unlike the hot springs the emit hot water, only steam and gas emanate from these. You may be able to observe bright yellow stains at the fumaroles, this is native sulphur, which crysallizes from the steam. At the southern part of the geothermal area, called Thykkuhverir, you‘ll find various mud pots. Such mud pots are actually fumaroles that boil up through surface water/groundwater and may become steaming fumaroles during dry spells, rather than the usual boiling mudpots.

About 2 km from Geysir is an old preserved natural pool called Marteinslaug. One can bathe in it and it has room for 3-5 people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C, depending on how you are positioned in the pool. The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised.

In Haukadalur there has also been tree planting in recent times and today the forest Haukadalsskogur is one of the largest in South Iceland. Aspen, various types of pine, and other plants have been tried out there and experiments and research continue. We also recommend visiting the tree museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson. There are good paths and roads in the forest and the wood is specially designed to accommodate wheelchairs.

Haukadalur has been a church site since ancient time. The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but the variety and appearance of the church dates back to 1842, making it one of the oldest of its kind in Iceland.

Haukadalur is indeed a historical place. It was settled during the age of settlement and scholar Ari “The Wise“ Thorgilsson grew up there. The first pastoral school in Iceland was also built there.

For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is about 7 km from the Geysir area, and closer still is the Hotel Geysir.

Gullfoss ('Golden Waterfall') in Hvita river is one of the most beautiful and beloved waterfalls in Iceland and forms a part of the famous Golden Circle along with Thingvellir National Park and the Geysir geothemal area.

This mighty waterfall cascades 32 meters into the river gorge and you'll be able to stand close enough to feel the waterspray on your face. Hvita itself should not be missed by any fan of rafting, as it is one of the most popular rafting rivers in Iceland.

The glacier volcano of Eyjafjallajökull is notorious the world over for causing havoc to air travel in 2010, and stumping television anchors everywhere as they tried to pronounce it. 1651 metres (5427 feet) tall, it is one of the most dominant features of the South Coast.

Geography

The glacier of Eyjafjallajökull is approximately 100 square kilometres (39 square miles), making it the country’s sixth largest. It sits close to the fourth greatest, Mýrdalsjökull, which also conceals another notorious volcano, this one called Katla.

While Eyjafjallajökull’s eruption was huge and disruptive, it pales in comparison to the potential of Katla. Far more explosive, and under much thicker ice, an eruption here in unfavourable wind conditions could have worldwide consequences.

The magma chambers between both of these mighty volcanoes are connected, and, unfortunately for us, an eruption at Eyjafjallajökull is usually followed by one at Katla within a decade.

Eyjafjallajökull has many glacial outlets, the most famous being Gígjökull. Many rivers flow from its meltwater, and one of these falls into the beautiful South Coast waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, which it is possible to fully encircle.

Eruptions

Eyjafjallajökull’s most recent eruption was no doubt the most famous in Iceland’s history (although the honour really should go to Laki, the 1783-4 eruption of which caused an ash cloud so great that Europe fell into a famine that many historians believe led to the French Revolution). On March 27th, 2010, magma began to bubble from beneath the surface, and by April 14th, ash was starting to billow from the peak.

800 people were evacuated, in fears not of magma, but of equally dangerous glacial floods, which have decimated Icelandic towns in the past. Animals were ordered to be kept inside, and those with respiratory problems told they should also stay indoors.

Air travel across Europe was halted, as, by the evening of April 15th, the ash was already over the UK, Scandinavia, and parts of Germany. Holidaymakers were trapped, waiting for news, and would end up stuck for eight days; in Scotland and Ireland, there were even flights delayed in May due to lingering effects.

Thankfully, no one was injured, although the ash is thought to have caused respiratory issues for some in the south of the country. Many farms were also destroyed by the ash and floods, with some farmers still struggling to recover today.

Since settlement in 874, Eyjafjallajökull has also erupted in 900, 1612, and from 1821 to 1823. The latter released a huge amount of fluoride which is believed to have affected the bone health of humans and animals alike at the time.

Eyjafjallajokull today

Eyjafjallajökull is now entirely safe to visit and is seen on most tours of the South Coast in clear weather. In the town of Hvolsvöllur, there is a visitor’s centre on the volcano, which focuses on the experience of one family whose farm, Þorvaldseyri, was one of the many destroyed by the floods, lava and ash.

It is very unlikely that Eyjafjallajökull will erupt again any time soon, with hundreds of years between each eruption, but as mentioned, its neighbour Katla might start rumbling...

The 120 meter high promontory Dyrholaey is the southernmost part of the mainland, only a short drive south of the Ring Road. It offers a breathtaking view and features spectacular outcrops and rock formations.

A notable attraction is the massive arch that the sea has eroded from the heartland, giving the island its name (‘dyr’=door’). One daredevil pilot even flew through it!

Dyrholaey has an abundance of birdlife, the most common being puffins and eider ducks. You can also enjoy the black beach, where the waves can provide an impressive sight. As these can be very wild, we do however advise uttermost caution.

Thingvellir is one of the most important sites to visit in Iceland for its landscape, history and cultural value.

The Icelandic parliament was founded in Thingvellir in 930 and remained there for centuries.Thingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain range and is the site of a rift valley, marking the crest of the Mid-Atlantic range. Today it is a natural park, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and considered a vital part of the ‘Golden triangle’ (with Geysir and Gullfoss). Of particular note is the magnificent gorge Almannagja, which marks the eastern boundary of the north American plate and into which the beautiful waterfall Oxararfoss falls.

Other notable attractions within the park include the beautiful lake Thingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland, the Silfra fissure, one of the world's top dives, and Gjabakkahellir, one of Iceland's most interesting lava tubes.

Hraunfossar in Borgarfjordur district is a series of beautiful waterfalls formedby rivulets streaming from a short distance out of the Hallmundarhraun lava field.

The lava field flowed from an eruption of one of the volcanoes lying under the glacier Langjokull. The waterfalls pour into the Hvita river from ledges of less porous rock in the lava. These are some of the most magnificent falls found in Iceland and not to be missed.

Strokkur (Icelandic for "churn") is one of the most famous hot springs in Iceland and belongs to the famous Golden Circle.

Strokkur is a fountain geyser in the Geysir geothermal area in the southwest part of the country, east of Reykjavik. Strokkur is a powerful hot spring and an impressive sight. It erupts about every 4–8 minutes and spouts water to a height of 15 – 20 m, sometimes up to 40 m.

Skagafjordur is a fjord in North Iceland. Saudarkrokur is its largest village. Skagafjordur district has strong agriculture and a rich history. Five of the largest battles in Icelandic history were fought there in the 13th century civil war.

Islands & Cape

There are three islands in the fjord, Drangey, Malmey and Lundey. Foremost of these is the steep Drangey island, shaped like a fort and rich with birdlife. For 19 years it was the refuge for the outlaw Grettir Asmundarsson of Grettis Saga fame.

Thordarhofdi may resemble an island when seen from afar but is actually a cape, the remnants of an old volcano. The cape has beautiful rows of columnar basalt, best seen from the sea.

History, Culture & activities

An old renovated turf farm house is to be seen at Glaumbaer museum, giving a good sense of the rural life of 18th and 19th century Iceland. Gudridur Thornbjarnardottir is said to have lived there, the first European mother on American ground.

North Iceland was a bishop’s district of its own and the bishop’s seat was at Holar in Hjaltadalur valley in the east of Skagafjordur. Holar today features an agricultural university, and is the seat for an ordaining bishop, who is a woman.

Skagafjordur district has some of the best rafting rivers in the country, so rafting there is highly popular, as well as horseriding. So is horseriding. Indeed, the culture of Skagafjordur is characterized by horse-riding, tenor singing and enjoying life.

Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features found there.

Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.

In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay in Iceland are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.

Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes

The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.

Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.

The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.

After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.

You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.

The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.

Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Sönghellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration. There is a small entry fee to the latter and you cannot enter it without a guide.

Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.

This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure in the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldór Laxness.

On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and known as "the mountain shaped like an arrowhead" from the popular HBO series, Game of Thrones.

The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords with a stop at the remote island of Flatey.

Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hákarl, or fermented shark.

Volcanic & Geothermal Activity

The Reykjanes Peninsula runs along the Mid-Atlantic Rift, where the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates are drifting apart. Due to this geological setting, the whole peninsula is extremely volcanically active, covered with lava fields, and eruptions and earthquakes are very common here.

During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but no eruptions have been recorded here for the last 500 years. This is simply a period of dormancy, however; they could start again at any time.

Earthquakes are still common. In 2001, one occurred beneath the lake Kleifarvatn and drained it to the extent that it lost 25 per cent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.

The main geothermal areas of Reykjanes, however, are Gunnuhver, Krýsuvik and Svartsengi. Various mud pools and fumaroles can be seen at Gunnuhver, while Krýsuvik is characterised by hot springs and mud pots that bestow multicoloured hues upon the soil.

Nature & Wildlife

Reykjanes' cliffs are teeming with birdlife. Its best-known bird colony resides in Krýsuvikurbjarg which is the nesting place of approximately eighty thousand seabirds. While puffins are not found here, it is an excellent place to spot cormorants, fulmar, and other such species.

North of Krýsuvíkurbjarg is the aforementioned Kleifarvatn, the largest lake on the peninsula and one of the deepest in Iceland. On the centre of the peninsula is lake Djúpavatn, a popular fishing destination.

Reykjanes is hammered by some of the most breath-taking breaker waves in the world. A short drive from Krýsuvík is Selvogur, where one can witness mighty waves shattering against the rocks. On Reykjanestá, the southwest tip of the peninsula, the waves are known to reach heights of thirty metres (nearly one hundred feet).

Because of this, coastal erosion is constantly ongoing at Reykjanes, and if it were not for the eruptions, it would either be much narrower or simply lost to the seas.

The peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík, Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík town is located on the south shore of the peninsula. Together, the towns and towns Keflavík, Njarðvík, Hafnir and Ásbrú make up the municipality Reykjanesbær which consists of just under 16,000 residents, making it the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.

Miðnesheiði

Near Keflavík is the Miðnesheiði heath, where the international airport, Leifsstöð (also known as Keflavíkurflugvöllur, or Keflavík Airport) is located. This is the port of arrival for the vast majority of travellers coming to Iceland.

The World-Famous Spa

On the southern tip of the peninsula is the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, an ideal place for relaxing and bathing and one of the most-visited attractions in Iceland.

Hvannadalshnúkur, or Hvannadalshnjúkur, is the highest peak of Öræfajökull volcanic glacier in Vatnajökull National Park and the tallest mountain in Iceland. Its latest measurement finds it to be 2,109.6 meters (6952 feet) tall.

Due to the fact Iceland is located over a rift valley, where the tectonic plates are pulling apart rather that crushing together, most mountains do not reach over a thousand metres, making it a remarkable sight.

Geography of Hvannadalshnúkur

Hvannadalshnúkur is a pyramid-shaped peak, that is covered in ice throughout the year. It can be seen from many parts of the country, particularly from the area between the towns of Höfn and Vík on the Ring Road that encircles the country.

It forms part of the crater around Öræfajökull, which conceals a particularly violent volcano. It had a massive eruption in 1362, destroying many farms and killing an unknown number of people. The lava wiped out every settlement around it, all the way to the shore, and pumice was so thick that it posed a huge risk to sailors.

The area was unsettleable for decades. When people finally returned to it, forty years later, it was named Öræfi, which meant ‘the area without a harbour’. Now, it is synonymous with ‘wasteland’.

It had another, although less dramatic, eruption in the year 1727. Even if the consequences were not so widespread, glacial floods pouring from the meltwater of the ice were known to have killed at least three people and destroyed one farm.

Hiking on Hvannadalshnúkur

Hvannadalshnúkur can be hiked near, by taking routes in all different parts of the South Coast, but hiking on it requires experienced mountain guides.

The path up the mountain goes through many crevasses, and involves steep inclines over icy ground, both of which pose some dangers to those unfamiliar with the area. Though you do not need to be an expert hiker, a good level of fitness is required.

The views from the top are well worth the effort.

Other sites in Vatnajökull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park is a vast area in Iceland, and Hvannadalshnúkur is just one site that should be visited if heading to the area.

Incredibly close by are two of the country’s most popular destinations. One of these is the Skaftafell Nature Reserve. This beautiful oasis is a wonderland of glacial tongues and lagoons, crystal clear streams, waterfalls, mountains and lava landscapes.

This reserve was once an independent National Park, before the creation of the greater Vatnajökull park.

The second major site is Jökulsárlón, a vast glacier lagoon and Iceland’s deepest lake. This lagoon fills with enormous icebergs, which break from the glacial tongue of Breiðamerkurjökull and slowly cruise their way over to the ocean. This was only enveloped into the park in 2017, but now is entirely protected.

While here, it is worth walking to the nearby shoreline, called the Diamond Beach after the icebergs that wash up here.

In this area, it is very important not to climb on the ice. When afloat, it is constantly rotating, and the lagoon has shockingly strong currents. When on the beach, they are melting and unstable.

Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.

Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.

Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull

Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.

Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.

The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.

Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.

Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:

‘The time for Katla to erupt is coming close… it is high time for European governments and airline authorities all over Europe and the world to start planning for the eventual Katla eruption’

So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.

Tours on Myrdalsjokull

While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it from October to April, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.

Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.

Tours around Myrdalsjokull

Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.

The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek

Skaftafell is a nature preserve in Oraefasveit. It used to be a national park of its own but joined the larger Vatnajokull National Park in 2008.

Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and overall for its amazing and contrasting scenery. You can take short and easy trails to the waterfalls Svartifoss and Hundafoss, as well as Skaftafell glacier, with the mountain Kristinartindar and Morsardalur valley further off.

Skaftafell is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnukur.

Eyjafjordur is a fjord in North Iceland, over 70 km in length from the mouth to the bottom of the fjord. There are high mountains on both sides, the highest being Kerling (1538 m). The capital of the North, Akureyri (ca. 18,000 inhabitants) lies at the bottom of the fjord.

Five smaller fishing villages are scattered on the shore and the agriculture in the countryside is lively. Big fishing companies are located in Akureyri and there is a university there. Higher education, tourism and services have become among the fastest growing sectors of the Akureyri's economy in recent years. Akureyri has a strong cultural scene and we particularly recommend strolling through the old part of the town and visiting its many interesting museums, such as Nonni Museum and Davidshus. If you like skiing or snowboarding one of the country's best skiing sites is located at Hlidarfjall by Akureyri.

The islands Hrisey and Grimsey, known as the 'Pearl of Eyjafjordur' and 'The Pearl on the Artic Circle' both belong to the municipality of Akureyri. These beautiful and peaceful islands should not be missed by those traveling to the North.

One of Iceland's most beloved poets, Jonas Hallgrimsson, was born in Eyjafjordur, at Hraun in Oxnadalur. The knife-edged peaks over Hraun, formed by glaciers and frosty weather, are highly impressive sight. The best known of these is Hraundrangi ('Steeple Rock'), as one of Jonas's most famous poems, the love poem Ferdalok ('Journey's End') refers to the clouded love star over the peak.

The star of love
over Steeple Rock
is cloaked in clouds of night.
It laughed, once, from heaven
on the lad grieving
deep in the dark valley.

The poem ends on a more hopeful note, however:

The heavens part
the high planets,
blade parts back and edge;
not even eternity can part
souls that are sealed in love

Hveragerði is a town and municipality in the southwest of Iceland. It is often nicknamed ‘the Earthquake Town’ or ‘the Hot Spring Town’, due to the active geological and geothermal forces that define it.

Hveragerði town and services

Hveragerði is around 45 kilometres (28 miles) from the capital Reykjavík, and takes half an hour to drive to along the Ring Road travelling south. Around 2,300 people live in Hveragerði, most employed in tourism, horticulture or agriculture.

There is a service centre in the town with shops, including an alcohol shop, a supermarket, a gas station, an information point, and a cafe. There are several restaurants as well, and just outside it is a popular horse farm.

There are nice botanical areas and parks in the town, many recreational activities are available. There are excellent hiking trails as well as nice hotels and a camping ground which is open in the summer months.

In terms of culture, a number of museums can be found in Hveragerði, such as the Árnesingar art museum. The town hosts an annual culture and family festival in August.

Geography of Hveragerði

Hveragerði sits on a highly geothermal area. Boiling water runs just beneath the surface of the ground, leading to many hot springs in the nearby hills. This is both a blessing for the town and a curse.

In terms of a blessing, it allows greenhouses to flourish, as they can be provided with heat throughout the year. Hveragerði is thus the world’s northernmost producer of bananas, which are grown alongside a host of other fruits and vegetables.

Many flowers and herbs are also grown here, and it is considered the centre of botany in Iceland.

The boiling water also allows food to be cooked simply by burying it for a few hours, providing the restaurants with unique menus. It also brings the area a wealth of tourism.

The curse of this geothermal water is the effect it has on the residents. Stories of hot springs opening overnight in people’s kitchens, bedrooms and living rooms are very common.

Also, due to the Mid-Atlantic rift running through Iceland, many earthquakes hit Hveragerði. Fortunately, the houses are built here to withstand tremors, due to how common they are, but there is a lingering knowledge that a powerful earthquake or eruption could cause serious, perhaps irreparable damage to the settlement.

The river Varmá runs from the valley of Reykjadalur through the town. This region, which translates to the Steam Valley, is an incredibly popular place for hot spring bathing and hiking.

A gravel road that leads from Hveragerði takes you to the base of the hiking trail, which, for forty five minutes, winds up, down and around beautiful, scenic hills dotted with fumaroles and mud pits.

It ends by a river that is fed by hot springs, meaning it is heated from the top, allowing visitors to choose the perfect place to bathe. There are no indoor changing areas, but screens to undress behind.

From the horse farm outside the city, tours allow you to ride to the springs instead of walk.

Þingvallavatn (anglicised to Thingvallavatn, ‘the Lake of the Fields of Parliament’) is a rift valley lake located roughly forty-minutes drive from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík.

Features of Þingvallavatn

Þingvallavatn is partially within the boundaries of Þingvellir National Park, Iceland’s oldest National Park and only one with UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

Covering an area of 84 square kilometres (32 square miles), Þingvallavatn is the largest natural lake in Iceland with its greatest depth measuring at 114 metres (374 feet). Þingvallavatn is situated on the Mid-Atlantic Rift, on a part of the ridge known as the Reykjanes Ridge.

The lake has only one outflow, the river Sog.

Of particular note to biologists and fishermen are the four morphs of Arctic Char that inhabit the lake. The lake’s char are an excellent example of species evolving to fit and adapt to a secluded environment; over ten thousand years, one species of Char has transformed into four different-sub branches. Other fish in the lake include the the Brown Trout and the Three-Spine Stickleback.

History and Geology

Þingvallavatn takes its name from the historical founding of the Althingi, which occurred in 930 AD at what is now known as Þingvellir National Park. Þingvellir literally translates to ‘Fields of Parliament’.

The Althingi was the first democratically elected representative parliament in world history (examples such as Ancient Athens were direct, not representative, democracies); Icelanders used to travel by foot or horseback simply to congregate at Þingvellir where they would hear the latest laws and judgements of the island.

Þingvellir National Park is also notable for its geology. Given its position on the Mid Atlantic Ridge, the park is one of the only places on the planet where visitors can see both the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates standing exposed from the earth.

Footpaths allow you to get up close and personal to the plates, standing right where the ancient settlers once did. In between the tectonic plates lies fields of dried volcanic rock, blanketed with a thick, yet fragile layer of Icelandic moss.

Scuba Diving in Þingvallavatn

Scuba diving around Þingvallavatn revolves around two sites, Silfra Fissure and David’s Crack, the former being one of the most popular spots on the planet for snorkelling and underwater exploration.

Silfra Fissure is situated between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and is filled with crystal-clear glacial water originating from the Langjökull ice cap. The water measures at between two degrees Celsius all year round, with a slight current preventing the fissure from ever freezing over.

David’s Crack is found within Þingvallavatn and is often considered the darker and more dramatic cousin of Silfra Fissure, resembling the gorge formation so prevalent across the Mid Atlantic Rift.

Only certain tour operators provide tours into David’s Crack, so make sure to do some research beforehand if you are looking to access this dive site during your time in Iceland.

Þríhnúkagígur is a dormant volcano in west Iceland, famous for its enormous magma chamber. It is the only magma chamber in the world that can be entered, and has a depth of 213 metres (699 feet).

Formation of Þríhnúkagígur

Þríhnúkagígur was a normal volcano in Iceland’s Blue Mountain range, also call Bláfjöll. However, its last eruption, almost 2,000 years ago, had some very unusual consequences.

After an eruption, the magma chamber of a volcano, now free of pressure, usually remains full of lava that cools into solid rock until the next eruption. If the magma chamber is fully emptied, the volcano will usually collapse in on itself.

To the bewilderment of scientists, however, neither of these things happened to Þríhnúkagígur.

It seems that a rift beneath the chamber drained it of all remaining lava, leaving behind an enormous chamber, that covered an area of 3,270 square metres (35,200 square feet). To give some idea of the scale of this, the Statue of Liberty could stretch her limbs within it, and it could comfortably fit Hallgrímskirkja church.

Unusually, the volcano did not collapse, and it has remained unchanged since.

Discovery and Exploration of Þríhnúkagígur

The vast magma chamber under Þríhnúkagígur would not be discovered until 1974, by an Icelandic cave explorer. Its discovery made world news, as volcanologists had not seen anything like it before, and were fighting to try to explain its existence.

In 2012, it was opened for tourism. A lift, akin to those used in mining, was installed, and visitors were now allowed to join tours plumbing its depths.

Its popularity comes not only from the uniqueness of the tour and the scale of the chamber, but the incredible colouration within it. Mineral deposits dye the walls vivid shades of red, yellow, green and blue, making the incredible space that much more ethereal.

Reaching Þríhnúkagígur requires a short but uphill hike, which can be done by any steady on their feet with a reasonable level of fitness. Tours only operate in summer.

Hofn a Hornafirdi, is a fishing town in southeast Iceland, with a population of 1641 (as of 2011). It has a strong harbour and its main industries are fishing and tourism.

Of note are several interesting museums and the annual Humarhatid (lobster festival). The area is also rich and varied birdlife and migratory birds from Scotland land here around April and leave around August/September.

Reynisfjara is a black pebble beach and features an amazing cliff of regular basalt columns resembling a rocky step pyramid, which is called Hálsanef. Out in the sea are the spectacularly shaped basalt sea stacks Reynisdrangar. The area has a rich birdlife, including puffins, fulmars and guillemots.

The waves at Reynisfjara are especially strong and unpredictable, and fatal accidents have occurred at this beach, so people are advised to take extra care when visiting the area.

According to folklore, two trolls attempted to drag a ship to land but were turned to stone as daylight broke, turning them into the Reynisdrangar stacks, clearly visible from the beach.

Jökulsárgljúfur is a canyon in Iceland that was once its own national park; now, it is part of the greater Vatnajökull National Park. This ravine is best known for holding spectacular waterfalls.

The Waterfalls of Jökulsárgljúfur

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon is best known for being home to the most powerful waterfall in Europe, the almighty Dettifoss. With a waterflow of 183 cubic metres (1970 cubic feet) per second, it is awe-inspiring, throwing off great plumes of mist and drenching those who get too close. Besides its strength, it is impressive in terms of its scale; the falls are about 100 metres (330 feet) wide, and 44 metres (144 feet) tall.

Other Sites in Jökulsárgljúfur

Jökulsárgljúfur has many features that draw guests besides its waterfalls. Particularly of note is the ‘Rock of Echoes’, Hjlóðaklettur, where the lava twists into beautiful shapes and carries the sound in a mystical way. Rauðhólar, or the red mountain, is also worth visiting, due to its beautiful, vivid colouration.

Just north of Jökulsárgljúfur is Ásbyrgi. This incredible feature is a vast, horseshoe-shaped canyon, filled with verdant forest. It is so dramatic that those who believed in the Old Norse Gods thought it was created when one of the hoofs of the eight-legged horse of the god Oðin came crashing into the earth.

Stykkisholmur is a town of about 1,100 people on northern shore of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It is a centre of service and commerce in the area, and the ferry Baldur sails from here to Brjanslaekur in the Westfjords.

History of Stykkisholmur

Stykkisholmur has long attracted settlers due to its natural harbour and its access to the fertile fishing grounds of Breiðafjörður.

Because of its early settlement, it features in the Sagas (if not by name), notably Laxdæla Saga, one of the great early works of Icelandic literature. It is one of the earliest European stories with a passionate and powerful female lead Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir, who struggles against a destiny to lose four husbands while trying to keep her children close and safe.

According to the tale, she eventually became the country’s first nun, and when she died, was buried at Helgafell, a small mountain near Stykkisholmur.

The first proper development for the town, however, came in 1550, with the creation of a trading post. Trading posts were uncommon in Iceland at the time due to the dangers and distances involved with travelling across the Atlantic, but Stykkisholmur’s natural harbour made it possible.

The settlement grew further with the beginning of the Danish Trade Monopoly over Iceland, starting in 1602 and not ending until near the end of the 18th Century. Though the policies of this monopoly disenfranchised and impoverished many Icelanders, it did help the development of towns along the peninsula such as Stykkisholmur.

In spite of the animosity felt from Icelanders towards the Danish under their colonial rule (a wound that has all but healed in every arena apart from perhaps sports), Stykkisholmur has always boasted good ties with their former rulers.

Every years since 1994, on the third weekend of August, Stykkisholmur holds a ‘Danish Day’, where it celebrates the historic and continued relations between the town and country. It is also the sister town of Kolding in Denmark.

Culture at Stykkisholmur

Stykkisholmur is a cultural hub, particularly considering its size. There is museum called the Norwegian House, which is the oldest two-storey building in Iceland, from 1828, and reveals what life was like for wealthy Icelanders of the day. There is also a Volcano Museum and the country’s oldest weather station, dating back to 1845.

Scenes to represent Greenland in the film ‘The Secret Life of Walter Mitty’ were shot in Stykkisholmur. In the novel Red Storm Rising, the town was the landing point of American troops liberating Iceland from the clutches of the Soviets.

Surroundings of Stykkisholmur

Kirkjufell is often nicknamed Iceland’s most photographed mountain; it rises from the edge of the ocean like a pyramid, and can be admired from many angles. Particularly pleasant is viewing it from beside the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, which trickles nearby.

Snæfellsjökull is one of Iceland’s three National Parks, named after its crowning glacier and volcano. This magnificent, twin-peaked feature has featured in novels such as Jules Verne’s ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’, and Halldor Laxness’ ‘Under the Glacier’.

It is also steeped in folklore and mystery, said to home the spirit of the peninsula’s guardian spirit and a centre of strange energies. This was so much the case that thousands of people, including new crews from the United States, showed up one evening that some theorists predicted an alien craft landing on it.

Hellnar is an old fishing village on the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. It used to be one of the largest fishing stations of the peninsula, the oldest record of seafaring there being from 1560.

At the shore are spectacular rock formations. Among them is a protruding cliff called Valasnos. Tunneling into the cliff is a cave renowned for its changing colourful hues, according to the light and sea movement. Large colonies of birds also nest in the area.

At Gvendarbrunnar a.k.a. Mariulind you can taste excellent spring water which is said to have healing powers.

Hellnar hosts the guesthouse for Snaefellsnes National Park and has a very interesting exhibition about the economy of former times and on the geology, flora and fauna of the national park.

Reykholt is a tiny village in west Iceland, which was once home to one of the world’s greatest medieval writers. Packed with history and culture, this little settlement should not be overlooked

Reykholt: Home of Snorri Sturluson

Reyholt’s fame comes from the fact that it was the home of the legendary writer, historian, chieftain and lawspeaker Snorri Sturluson. Though his name is not well-known outside of the Nordic world, without him we would know much less about medieval northern European history than we do today.

His two most famous works are Prose Edda and Heimskringla. The former is an account of the Old Norse Mythology, which was otherwise kept alive only by oral tradition.

It tells about how the pagans thought the world was created and how it would end, and the deities that sparked fear and awe in them, most famously Odin, Thor and Loki. Considered an epic poem akin to Homer’s Odyssey to many, it has inspired the fantasy genre perhaps more than any other work in the world.

Heimskringla is an account of Norwegian kings, told as sagas. It depicts what most historians consider to be an accurate depiction of relations across northern Europe from the 9th Century to the end of the 12th.

It is through this work, therefore, that we can learn about how the Vikings related to the kings of places such as the not-yet United Kingdom, how the jarls and clans disputed, and how they formed governments that have lasted to this day.

Though Snorri is best remembered for his works, his life was also a fascinating tale somewhat similar to that of a Game of Thrones character.

Aside from being a beloved poet and writer, he was a chieftain and later lawspeaker for Icelandic parliament, as well as a spokesperson, agent and, to some, lackey of the Norwegian king.

His influence and actions propelled Iceland’s civil war into chaos, and he met betrayal from every side, resulting in his eventual assassination. The taboo of this execution, however, meant that Snorri was remembered as a hero, rather than the divisive figure he often was.

To add to the Game of Thrones flavour, he was also notorious for infidelity, and fathering children up and down the country.

In honour of Snorri’s life and works, Reykholt is home to Snorrastofa, a centre on his contribution to medieval studies.

Reykholt and Surroundings

Even if you have little interest in Snorri, Reykholt is a beautiful town, well worth a visit. It has a wealth of geothermal activity, and one of the country's oldest structures, Snorralaug geothermal pool, can be found here.

Reykholt is also the closest settlement to the popular waterfalls of Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. The former of these, the ‘Lava Falls’, are serene and unique, while the latter, the ‘Children’s Falls’, is rapid and dramatic.

It is also close to Deildartunghver, the highest flowing hot spring in Europe.

If you're looking to stay more than a day in Reykholt or nearby, there are several hotels in the vicinity, among them the the beautifully built boarding school that functions as an Edda-hotel in the summer. There are also a wealth of cabins and bungalows to be rented here.

Borgarnes is a town of around 1763 people, located on a peninsula at the shore of Borgarfjordur. It's a commerce centre for a large part of western Iceland.

Borgarnes' main industry is service and commerce. It is near to many natural attractions and the view over the fjord and its mountains is highly scenic. The river Hvita runs through this valley but should not be confused with its namesake, which is the home of Gullfoss and one of Iceland's major rafting rivers. Among major cultural attractions of Borgarnes are the Settlement Centre and the Centre for Puppet Arts.

For those with children, or wanting to bring out their inner child, we recommend the Bjossarolo environmental playground which Bjorn Hjortur Gudmundsson spent years developing, using salvaged materials for all the play equipment. Here you'll find slides built into the surrounding hillocks, many slings, a jungle gym, spinning top and several lookout points. There's also a castle, an old boat, seesaws and a climbing dome. Courting couples have also been attracted to the place. In short, it's renowned as the best playground in the country, a wonderland of endless fun activities. It further gives an excellent view of the sea, so guests can take in the breathtaking scenery.

Barnafoss ('Children's Waterfall') is a waterfall in Hvita river in Borgarfjordur.

The waterfall runs through a narrow rocky gorge and legend has it that there once was a natural stone arc over the river, that was demolished after two children fell from it to their death. Not far away is the stunning series of waterfalls Hraunfossar, flowing out of a lava field into Hvita.

The mighty Langjökull, the ‘Long Glacier’, is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, at 935 square kilometres (361 square miles). For jeep and snowmobile trips, Langjökull is the most popular glacier in Iceland, and skiing and hiking here is possible as well.

Highland tracks

Langjökull is located in the Highlands, and two main highland tracks, connecting the north and the south of Iceland, lie alongside it.

The landscape of Langjokull

Langjökull is about 50 kilometres (31 miles) long and up to 20 kilometres (12 miles) wide, and the ice is around 580 metres (1,903 feet) deep at its thickest. The glacier reaches its highest point in its northernmost part, which is called Baldjökull, rising around 1,450 metres (4,757 feet) above sea level.

The glacier lies over a massif of hyaloclastite mountains. The tops of these mountains can be seen in certain places on the glacier. It also conceals at least two active volcanic systems, the calderas of which are visible from the air.

The best known of these systems fuels the geothermal area of Hveravellir, east of Baldjökull. Also in the east lies the Kjalhraun lava field, which formed about 7800 years ago.

To the northwest of the glacier is another system that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field, through which the Hvítá river runs in the direction of Gullfoss waterfall. Also in the area is Iceland‘s longest lava cave, the fascinating Surtshellir.

Southwest of Langjökull is the Presthnúkur lava field, fissures of which creep under the ice. South of the glacier is the Lambahraun lava field and even further south lies the Skjaldbreiðarhraun lava field and the Skjaldbreiður shield volcano.

Compared to other regions in Iceland, the area is considered relatively calm, with only 32 eruptions in the last 10,000 years.

Into the glacier

Near the highest peaks of Langjökull exists a man-made ice tunnel, a true spectacle for any visitor passing by the glacier. Designed and constructed by geophysicist and presidential candidate Ari Trausti Guðmundsson, the tunnel exists to allow visitors to explore the inside of a glacier without having to come to Iceland in mid-winter for a chance to see the less-than-reliable ice caves.

Guests traverse beneath Langjökull's thick ice sheet, experiencing the vivid blue colouration within, and gaining an insight into the glacier's beauty, formation and processes. It is the only place in the world where this is possible. ‘Into the Glacier’ tours are often combined with adventure activities such as snowmobiling.

Nearby glaciers

The glaciers located nearest to Langjökull are Eiríksjökull, which conceals the highest mountain in west Iceland, and Þórisjökull. Hrútfellsjökull also lies on the east side of Langjökull.

Between Þórisjökull and Geitlandsjökull is a valley called Þórisdalur. Along with stunning views, it features prominently in Icelandic folk tales; the outlaw Grettir the Strong of Grettis Saga, for example, is reported to have resided here for one winter.

Langjokull and the Golden Circle

Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, the Golden Circle, would not be possible if not for Langjökull glacier; none of its three iconic features would exist in their current state without the melting ice.

Gullfoss waterfall is the most obvious example of this. The river that feeds into it, the Hvítá, is a glacier river flowing straight from Langjökull; the scale of the ice cap is hinted at by the sheer volume of water that cascades here every second.

The hot springs at Geysir, meanwhile, are supplied with water underground. Meltwater from Langjökull feeds into the surrounding lava fields, which have very porous rock, and flows in a subterranean river to the geothermal area, where it comes bursting out of the naturally forms vents.

While Þingvellir would still have its National Park and World Heritage status without Langjökull, which it received for being the original site of what is now the longest-running representative parliament in the world, it would be notably less beautiful.

Many springs exist throughout the park, also formed by the underground meltwater of the glacier. Due to its long filtration process, the water emerges as some of the clearest naturally occurring water in the world.

Silfra fissure, therefore, is the best snorkelling and diving location in the country and consistently ranked as one of the top ten places for such activities in the world.

Global warming

Langjökull is shrinking fast and concerns have been raised about the glacier due to the effect of global warming. Some researchers fear that if climate change continues at its current rate the glacier may be gone in 150 years. Less optimistic scientists have said it could be gone in as few as 50.

Arnarstapi is a village in the southern part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. The area has several old and charming houses with interesting stories to them and is furthermore renowned for its beautiful nature.

The beach holds a particular attraction. It has an eroded circular stone arch, called Gatklettur, and three rifts, Hundagja,Midgja and Musagja. The interplay of spectacular waves and the light of the sun creates a fascinating spectacle. Large colonies of the arctic tern also nest in the area.

An old horse trail through the lava field Hellnahraun is highly popular for hiking, due to the impressiveness of the surrounding landscape.

Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church, located on top of hill Skólavörðuhæð in the centre of Reykjavík. At 74.5 metres (245 feet) tall, it is the largest church in Iceland, and its tower offers a spectacular panoramic view over the city.

History and design

The church was designed by one of Iceland’s most renowned architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who is said to have sought inspiration for his expressionistic design from elements of the Icelandic nature.

These include glaciers, mountains and lava formations, particularly the hexagonal basalt columns that surround the waterfall Svartifoss in Skaftafell Nature Reserve, in Vatnajökull National Park. These have influenced many of the architectural structures in Iceland, and a whole host of other artistic projects.

It is also designed to resemble Thor’s hammer, with the handle facing up, as a nod to Iceland’s religion history.

The church took 41 years to build, with construction starting in 1945 and finishing in 1986. The leaders of the Church of Iceland wanted a building that would tower over the Catholic Church of Landakotskirkja, also designed by Samúelsson.

The large pipe organ inside Hallgrímskirkja, consisting of over 5000 pipes, was built by German Johannes Klais of Bonn and its construction was completed in December 1992.

Outside the church stands one of the the most famous statues of one of Iceland’s most legendary children, Leifur Eiríksson, by American sculptor Alexander Stirling Calder; Eiríksson was a Norse explorer from Iceland who discovered the continent of North America in the year 1000, more than half a century before Christopher Columbus.

The statue was a gift from the United States in 1930, on the millennial anniversary of Iceland’s legislative body, the Alþingi, founded in Þingvellir in 930 AD. This was the world’s first democratically elected parliament, and is now located in Reykjavík.

Culture

The church’s namesake is the Icelandic priest Hallgrímur Pétursson, a 17th-century poet and author of the Passion Hymns (Passíusálmar). These hymns are a vital part of Icelandic religious tradition and a stable of local literature, having been reprinted over 75 times since their original publishing in 1666.

The tower of the church is each day visited by hundreds of spectators who seek to enjoy its sweeping view of the capital. The observation tower can be accessed via a lift. There is a small fee to ascend above the clock, which goes towards the maintenance and running of the church.

Hallgrímskirkja counts as the most iconic landmark of the city of Reykjavík and is visible throughout most of the capital, challenged only by the concert hall and conference centre Harpa. It is a useful tool for navigating as visitors wander the streets.

It also serves as a focal meeting point for several cultural events, such as the annual gathering for watching the fireworks on New Year’s Eve. On this night, thousands of people set off dozens of fireworks in an ad-hoc, somewhat chaotic, yet unbelievably dazzling show.

In the lead up to the night many shops sell protective goggles that are recommended for all observers, particularly children, due to a few incidents of debris falling from poorly aimed fireworks.

Grjótagjá is a small lava cave located near lake Mývatn in north Iceland, famous for featuring a beautiful geothermal hot spring in its depths.

History of Grjótagjá

Grjótagjá’s known history begins in the early 18th Century, where it was known to be the home of outlaw Jón Markússon. Throughout Iceland’s history, their icy, jagged rocks, total darkness and reputation for trolls meant law-abiding folk avoided Iceland’s lava caves, making them the perfect spots for bandits who had been ostracised from Icelandic society by the parliament.

Little is known about Jón, but after his death, fears of his cave gave way to excitement at its potential. It was used by locals as a hot spring in the decades that followed until the 1970s, when Iceland’s unpredictable geothermal forces prevented them from doing so.

From 1975 to 1984, the Krafla volcanic system erupted nine times, resulting in (to say nothing of new expanses of lava, the creation of new caves and magma chambers and the release of toxic gases) the water’s caves to boil and make it unusable.

After 1984, the temperature has slowly cooled, but has been known to rapidly heat again; in the surrounding area, liquid rock is just two kilometres (just over a mile) under the surface of the earth, meaning it can be very unpredictable.

As such, bathing is no longer allowed in Grjótagjá. You are welcome, however, to at least feel the water and dip your feet in to relax.

The lava cave and hot spring, however, have such an ethereal, otherworldly beauty that they attract many visitors a year. This unique, fantastical appeal, did not go unnoticed by producers; HBO’s Game of Thrones even shot one of the season’s most iconic scenes here.

In Season Three, Episode Four, Grjótagjá is used as the setting for the much anticipated love scene between Jon Snow and the wildling woman Ygritte, where Jon Snow ‘proves’ his abandonment of the Night’s Watch by consummating their relationship.

In the televised version of the cave, there is a waterfall added with CGI, but otherwise, Grjótagjá is as it appears in reality.

Grjótagjá is far from the only place in Iceland used to build up the world of Westeros; in fact, it is not even the only one in the local area. Also in the Lake Mývatn area is the lava fortress of Dimmuborgir; in midwinter, this dramatic area was used to reflect the wildling camp of Mance Raider throughout Seasons Two and Three.

Getting to Grjótagjá

Grjótagjá is located conveniently in the Mývatn area, which is part of the most popular sightseeing route of north Iceland, the Diamond Circle, and on the Ring Road that encircles the country.

Reaching it and getting to the hot spring, however, requires a reasonable level of fitness and a little sense of adventure. There is a slightly rocky path that takes you from Dimmuborgir to the cave itself, which you will need to be careful descending into; lava caves are very jagged, and the ground is uneven.

There are car parking spaces beside Grjótagjá if you do not want to take the short hike.

Vík í Mýdral, or just Vík, is the southernmost village on the Icelandic mainland, located 186 kilometres (110 miles) from the capital Reykjavík.

Often visited by those travelling the popular sightseeing route along the South Coast, it is a wonderful place to stop, recharge, and if you are taking your time, rest for the night. Though it only has around 300 residents, the village is very popular amongst tourists for its convenience and beautiful surrounding landscapes.

Features near Vik

Reaching Vík from Reykjavík takes approximately two and a half hours, and en route, there are many marvellous features to admire. Two of the country’s most famous waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, lay between the two destinations; the former has awe-inspiring power, whereas the latter can be fully encircled.

The glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull can also be seen on clear days; both of these cover volcanoes which are particularly explosive, with Eyjafjallajökull famously disrupting European air travel in 2010. Out to sea in especially good weather, the Westman Islands can also be seen on the horizon.

Just before Vík are the popular birdwatching cliffs of Dyrhólaey, where you can also find an enormous rock arch curving out into the ocean. This is one of the best places for birdwatching in Iceland, with thousands of puffins nesting here from May to August.

The village itself sits opposite one of the country’s most famous features: Reynisfjara black sand beach. Considered one of the world’s most beautiful non-tropical beaches, it boasts incredible geology.

Particularly of note are the Reynisdrangar sea-stacks, said to be two trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun as they tried to pull a ship into shore.

Though this beach makes for a lovely walk, particularly for those staying in Vík overnight, as they can see it under the midnight sun or northern lights, it has its dangers. Sneaker waves can be notorious here, so visitors should stay far from the water’s edge, and never go for a swim. Lives have been lost here before.

The route to Vík from Reykjavík is beautiful and continues to be so as you travel further along the South Coast, through the Skeiðarásandur black-sand-plains into Vatnajökull National Park. This beautiful region is often the final destination of those passing through Vík, as it is home to the largest glacier in Europe, the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

Of course, ambitious travellers will carry on from here to encircle the full country.

Wildlife around Vik

Vík, due to its closeness to the Reynisfjall and Dyrhólaey cliffs, has a rich birdlife. Short walks from the village will take you to the nesting grounds of gulls, fulmar, guillemots, and in summer, puffins.

Due to its coastal location, visitors to Vík have a decent chance to see seals on the shore. There is also a slim chance to see whales or dolphins; the twenty or so species that live in Iceland’s waters can appear at any time.

Services in Vik

Vík has a wide variety of public services, due to its remoteness and its importance in connecting the east and west of Iceland. There are gas stations, shops and cafes, a swimming pool, a wool factory that can be visited, and a wide range of accommodation options for all budgets.

Please note, however, that as the village has such a small year-round population, those with special dietary requirements should purchase their food from Reykjavík before departing.

Svartifoss, in spite of being just 20 metres (66 feet) tall, and not particularly powerful, is one of Iceland’s most popular waterfalls. The beauty of its formation and surroundings draw thousands of guest a year, and have inspired artists for centuries.

Columns of Svartifoss

Svartifoss is best renowned for the hexagonal basalt columns that surround it and lay shattered at its base. These columns, which are very dark, lend the feature its name; Svartifoss means ‘Black Falls’.

The geology surrounding Svartifoss has inspired many artists and architects, spanning generations. To list them all would be impossible, but perhaps the most notable is Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Reykjavík, which took elements of Svartifoss’s columns and Thor’s hammer in its design.

The capital’s National Theatre also drew inspiration from Svartifoss, as did the artwork ‘Milestones’ on Viðey Island, by Richard Sierra.

Location of Svartifoss

This reserve is renowned for it diverse and spectacular sceneries. It is partly forested in birch, partly covered in lava, divided by rivers and streams, and has many glacier tongues and lagoons within its boundaries.

Avid hikers, photographers and nature lovers, therefore, find Skaftafell to be an oasis of beauty.

To many, Svartifoss is its highlight. The hike from the Skaftafell Visitors’ Centre to the waterfall is just over thirty minutes, and though relatively easy, requires a reasonable level of fitness and decent hiking boots.

Sites Surrounding Svartifoss

Svartifoss, within Skaftafell, has a host of sites that compete for attention from visitors. Perhaps most notable of these is Svínafellsjökull, one of the country’s most popular ice caps for glacier hiking.

Visitors are encouraged to spend several hours following different treks in the path, to discover a whole host of unspoiled spots of incredible natural beauty.

Unfortunately, Svartifoss and Skaftafell are often both overlooked by travellers racing their way to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach, which are half an hour further along Route 1.

While these sites are majestic places, where you can see enormous icebergs cruise from a vast lake to the ocean, amongst dozens of playing seals, Svartifoss still stands up as a natural highlight next to them, and visitors should still attempt to see it.

Egilsstadir is the largest town in East Iceland, with a population of 2257 people as of 2011. It is located on the banks of the river Lagarfljot in the wide valley of the fertile Fljotsdalsherad district.

Egilsstadir is the main center for service, transportation and administration in East Iceland.

The town provides all basic services and features an airport, a college and a health center. Egilsstadir also has an annual jazz festival that we can recommend. The town is furthermore close to many of East Iceland's and indeed Iceland's main attractions and as a center of the area, many East Iceland tours are directed from there.

Siglufjordur is a town of about 1300 people, located it North Iceland. It is the northernmost town of the mainland. Along with its natural beauty, its Herring Era museum, Folk Music Museum and the annual Folk Music Festival attract ever more travelers.

Economy

Siglufjordur has one of Iceland's best harbours and the fishing industry has been the mainstay of the economy for a long time, but in recent years services have become and increased part of the economy. Since the tunnels through the fjord Hedinsfjordur opened in 2010 there has been a large increase in visits to the town, as the town indeed has much to offer for travelers.

History & culture

Siglufjordur has an eventful history and saw a steady rise in the 20th century, from being a tiny village in the early 1900s to becoming a town no later than as 1918. In the middle of the 20th century it was one of the largest towns in Iceland. For a long period it was the capital of herring fishing in the North Atlantic, and the town's cod fishing museum bears proud witness to this history. The old houses there are charming and its nice to take a stroll through the town and enjoy the architecture and the surrounding nature.

The Herring Era Museum is one of Iceland's largest seafaring- and industry museums in the country. The museum is split into three houses were one can learn about the fishing and its processing. One can see many ships and boats in the Boathouse, recreating the feel of the 50's. The salting station retains the old look of the place and on good summer days traveleres may observe the salting process in action and there is a dance. The old Grana factory shows how herring was transformed into meals and oil.

The Folk Music Center is located where the reverend Bjarni Thorsteinsson, 'The father of Siglufjordur', lived and brings the old folk songs to life. Here you can here recordings of people singing quint songs or tvisongur, chanting the epic rhymes (rimur), playing langspil (similar to dulcimer, featuring one melody string and one to five (usually two) drone strings), and the old Icelandic (two strings), nursery rhymes, doing folk dances etc. The center also depicts the life of reverend Bjarni.

The Folk Festival

In early July, Siglufjordur hosts it annual Folk Music Festival, introducing the folk music of various nations and ethnic groups, with a special focus on Icelandic folk music. Various events take place, including lectures and courses on music and handicraft aklong with dances, concerts and overall partying.

Nature

Siglufjordur is a particularly beautiful fjord, and high and dramatic mountains tower of the town. The birdlife is varied and some 2000 birds of 16-18 species may usually be found in the fjord. Popular hiking trails include the passes Holsskard and Hestsskard, which lead to the beautiful fjord Hedinsjordur, which may also be accessed by boat or car.

The deserted Hedinsfjordur is set by steep and impressive mountains and has a beautiful valley with good trout fishing in the Hedinssfjardarvatn lake. The last farm of Hedinsfjordur was abandoned in 1951. In the 20th century there would on average be five inhabited farms in the fjord. The vegetation is rich and food could be obtained from land and sea, but the winters were hard and saw many avalanches. The fjord was also hard to reach.

Northeast of Hedinsfjordur you'll find the remnants of one of the remote farms in Iceland, Hvanndalir. Hvanndalir can be reached from Hedinsfjordur through the Hvanndalaskridur ('Hvanndalir landslides'), though we would only suggest this to seasoned hikers, accompanied by professional guides.

Blonduos is the largest urban area of Hunafloi bay in Northwest Iceland, with a population of around 850 people. It is a service center for the local area and a common stop for travelers of the ring road.

Economy, accommodation and services

Blonduos’s main economy is acting as a serving center, particularly for dairy products, as well as fishing and light industy and tourism. A creamery and a butchery are both operated at Blonduos, as well as a hospital and a health service. The town has a hotel and a guesthouse, as well as summerhouses and a camping area and offers general commerce and services.

Attractions and activities

Birdwatching is popular in the area, as well as horse riding tours and the nearby lakes and rivers are some of the best in the country for fishing trout and salmon. Among these is the river Blanda, one of Iceland's longest rivers. In it is the beautiful island Hrutey, rich with vegetation and is a habitat for many bird species, such as geese. The Yndisgardur is a nice park with a variety of beautiful plants. A small golf course is also located in the town. The town is further a good set off point when traveling in Hunafloi bay.

You might also want to check out the handicraft museum, the Sea Ice Exhibition Center and the textile museum, the only one of its kind in Iceland. The local church, i.e. 'the new church' with its interesting architecture, is also worth a look, inspired by nature and made to resemble a volcanic crater. The older church, built in 1894 is a real beauty, built in Romanesque style from ca. meter thick granite blocks. The ceiling is painted with a thousand stars and the church has a thousand small windowpanes. The altarpiece was made by Johannes Kjarval, one of Iceland's foremost painters.

In Eyjafordur in North Iceland there lies an island of around 200 people, called Hrisey, widely hailed as 'The Pearl of Eyjafjordur'. The beauty and tranquility of Hrisey, along with its interesting history and culture, the hospitality of the locals, rich birdlife and a fantastic view of the fjord and its mountains have made the island an essential stop for travelers.

History & Culture

Hrisey has been inhabited since the age of settlement and is mentioned as early as in Landnamabok and the Saga of Viga-Glumur. From early on there‘d be fishing and trade from the island and in the 19th century Norwegians and Swedes set up a herring salting factory there. The locals soon followed suit and developed their own herring industry, reaching its greatest hights between 1930 and 1950.

Overfishing in Icelandic waters led to a steep decline in the fishing industry in the 1960s, and the last fish freezing plant on Hrisey, owned by the Eyjafjordur Co-operative Society, closed in 1999. Today the locals mainly make their living through fishing and tourism.

Among the many beautiful houses in Hrisey is the house of Shark-Jorundur, built in 1885-6, which features an exhibition on shark hunting in Iceland, which reached its peak in the 19th century. This was an industry that was extremely hazardous and claimed many lives but could be highly profitable, as shark liver oil was used for street lighting until petrol took over.

At the house of Alda Halldorsdottir, built in 1913, locals are setting up a regional museum. An old fishing station has been turned into a handworks gallery, Galleri Perla, showcasing women‘s handwork, such as knitting products, handmade candles, paintings, artefacts made from seashells, souvenirs and more. Nature lovers should also check out the birdhouse and the lighthouse, which offers a fantastic view of the area.

Nature

The island itself is around 7 km long and 2,5 km wide. It is rather flat, 110 meters above sea level at its highest. The island is comprised of basalt and its upper lair of moraine (unconslidated glacier debris, soil and rock) and it is well vegitated. Among the many plants found on the island are wooly willow, tea-leaved willow, common juniper and dwarf birch.

There‘s geothermal heat and hot water supply on the island as well and at the seashore there‘s a pool with a heat of 60°C. It becomes submeged with sea water during flood.

As noted, the island is a haven for birds and more than 40 species may be found here. Most abundant are ptarmigans, but Hrisey also has the largest breeding colony of arctic terns in Europe and many types of moorland birds are prominent on the island as well.

Transport & Services

To reach the island, you‘ll need to take the ferry Saevar from the village Arskogssandur, on the west coast in Eyjafjordur. The ferry goes hourly in summertime and the journey takes around 20 minutes. A bus goes from Akureyri to the village. The drive takes around 30 minutes.

Hrisey offers good services, and along with the museums, gallery and lighthouse it has a bank, a restaurant, a shop and a post office, along with the aforrmentioned natural hot spring pool, ideal for a cozy bath. Good accommodation can be had at Hotel Brekka. Last but not least is the easy access to the stunning nature, ample opportunites for birdwatching and great walking trails around the island, where you can enjoy the peace and beauty of the Pearl of Eyjafjordur.

Lore

According to legend, it was here in the 18th century that the sorcerer Thorgeir Stefansson, 'Galdra-Geiri' conjured one of the most horrible and monstrous ghost in Iceland, Thorgeirsboli. It‘s said that the ghost was created by flaying a calf so it dragged its hide by its tail, and was given the elements of man, cat, dog, air, bird, mouse and two sea creatures, the monster was thus being able to take on all these forms. Other accounts claim that the monster came to be as the sorcerer placed a dog‘s leg inside the head of a flayed calf and recited evil poetry over it. The ghost was first conjured to haunt a woman who had spurned the sorcerer in love. It would then grow ever stronger and harder to contain and is said to have followed its creator‘s family for long after, not necessarily in their best interest either. Some believe Thorgeirsboli may still be out there somewhere, dragging his bloody hide behind him and giving out an earth-shattering and hellish moo...

The Namafjall geothermal field is located in Northeast Iceland, on the east side of Lake Myvatn.

At this area, also known as Hverir, you may see many solfataras and boiling mud pots, surrounded by sulfur crystals of many different colours. The area is quite smelly but something one gets used to after a while. The soil in the area has little growth and is sour due to erosion and the sulfur from the atmosphere. Indeed, the old rock-covered boreholes in the area give off a lot of hot steam, so we advise caution.

Around the area is a small hiking trail up to Namaskard pass and Namafjall mountain, returning to the highway and the parking lot.

Historically sulfur would be much sought after in the area. The same is true of the geothermal power. In 1969 a power plant was built west of the mountain, at Bjarnarflag, by the Laxa Power Company. This company later merged with Landsvirkjun. The plant currently produces 3MW of geothermal energy.

Concerns have raised over current plans to expand the plant to 90 MW. In particular there have been worries as regards the effect of the plant on the ecosystem of Lake Myvatn. The head of the environmental NGO Landvernd has recently called for a new environmental impact assesment. The matter continues to be debated.

Kerid is a volcanic crater lake in Grimsnes in South Iceland. It is a popular stop when traveling the Golden Circle.

It is believed that Kerid was originally a cone volcano that erupted and and emptied its magma reserve. Once the magma was depleted, the weight of the cone collapsed into an empty magma chamber, later to be filled with water.

The Kerid caldera is composed of red volcanic rock and is around 55 m deep, 170 m wide and 270 m across. There is little vegetation in the steep-walled crater, save for one wall with a gentler slope which is covered with deep moss. This wall is fairly easy to descend.

The lake itself is fairly shallow and is striking in its beauty. Opaque and aquamarine, surrounded by the red crater walls, Kerid offers a great contrast of colours and a highly impressive scenery.

Gljúfrabúi (or Canyon Dweller) is a beautiful waterfall located at Hamragarðar in South Iceland, close to its better known counterpart, Seljalandsfoss waterfall. It is one of the hidden gems of the South Coast, and thus a great spot for photographers and those seeking to admire nature in peace.

Nature of Gljúfrabúi

The 40 metre (131 feet) high Gljúfrabúi is hidden behind a huge cliff which faces out towards Iceland’s South Coast and the Atlantic Ocean. Because of its decent ‘hiding place’, it is overlooked by most travellers, in spite of the fact that thousands of people visit Seljalandsfoss, less than a kilometre away, every day.

A stream, the Gljúfurá, runs through a cleft in the cliff, and those who wish to approach the falls must do so by wading through these waters.

After a few metres of travelling through a narrow valley, the space will open, and here, Gljúfrabúi tumbles before a great boulder, which it is possible to climb upon for some great photos. With the open sky above, mossy walls, silver mist and black lava, it is one of Iceland’s most breathtaking gems, seemingly from a fantasy story.

This is especially the case on sunny days, where rainbows curve through the water’s spray.

It is also possible to see Gljúfrabúi from above. There is a steep path that allows you to clamber up the cliff, at some points with the aid of ropes.

Both these routes are mildly challenging and have their dangers, so only attempt to reach Gljúfrabúi if you are in a decent state of health and confident on your feet. They should only be attempted when there is not ice on the ground, and in the case of the path up the cliff, when it is wet and slippery.

Surroundings of Gljúfrabúi

Gljúfrabúi is in one of the most travelled regions of Iceland, on the South Coast along the Ring Road. This means that it is very easy to reach, either alone or on a guided tour, just an hour and a half’s drive from the capital.

As mentioned, Gljúfrabúi is about ten minutes walk north Seljalandsfoss. Interestingly, this is one of the country’s most famous and photographed waterfalls, due to the fact it falls from a concave cliff which allows visitors to fully encircle the cascade.

Seljalandsfoss is taller than Gljúfrabúi at 60 metres (196 metres), with a similar waterflow. Both are fed by the meltwater of the glacier Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano beneath which caused widespread problems to air traffic across Europe when it erupted in 2010.

A much more powerful waterfall can be found just half hour’s drive or so along the Ring Road, called Skógafoss. This is a similar height to Seljalandsfoss, but up to 30 metres (98 feet) wide after a heavy rain.

Another popular site in the area is Sólheimajökull, the most popular glacial outlet in Iceland for glacier hiking. This feature is on Sólheimasandur, a vast expanse of volcanic ash that resembles a black sand desert.

Those who travelling a little further along the South Coast will reach the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, with their beautiful rock arch and resident puffins in summer, and the beach of Reynisfjara, renowned for it powerful waves and basalt sea-stacks, called Reynisdrangar.

Located in the north-west, Hofsós is one of the oldest trading posts in Iceland, dating back to the 1500s. Today, it is a sleepy fishing village, though tourism is now on the rise thanks to the recent addition of a designer swimming pool.

History

Located in the north-west, Hofsós is one of the oldest trading posts in Iceland, dating back to the 1500s. Today, it is a sleepy fishing village, though tourism is now on the rise thanks to the recent addition of a designer swimming pool.

In the 16th century, Hofsós seemed destined to develop into a large and prosperous town. It was built centre-north of the country, there was easy access for boats to land, the fishing was rife and, most importantly, it was a trading port for the Danish Trade Monopoly. Given that Iceland was under Danish crown rule, this trade monopoly ensured the then King of Denmark, Christian IV, that he could both pursue his mercantilist priorities and maintain overseas territories.

An old wooden warehouse, Pakkhúsið, still exists in the town dating back to this period, which ended in 1786 following the cessation of the Danish Trade Monopoly. However, Hofsós failed to develop substantially in the 20th Century, and to this day is still a fairly quiet village West of Akureyri.

Culture

A number of harbourside buildings have been converted to the Iceland Emigration Centre, a museum dedicated to the story of Icelandic emigration to North America.

Icelander Leif Erikson was, arguably, the first man of European descent to make landfall in North America, estimated at around 1000 AD, five centuries before Christopher Columbus. His worthy voyage cowers in comparison to the countries’ later mass exodus. Iceland lost 16,000 residents between 1870 to 1914, all pursuing the dream of a “New Iceland”.

Further thousands left after the Second World War, many settling in the Upper Midwest of the United States. The Iceland Emigration Centre’s main exhibition is a collection of letters, photographs and displays called “New Land, New Life”, which brings this story to greater attention.

Since 2010, Hofsós has boasted an outdoor swimming pool and adjacent hot pot— Sundlaugin á Hofsósi—built fjord side and beautifully integrated into the landscape. Swimmers are privy to truly majestic views of the area. Boat tours are available for bird watching and sightseeing trips to the uninhabited island of Málmey.

Keflavík International Airport (KEF) is Iceland’s only international airport and the port of arrival for the vast majority of visitors to the country. In 2016 alone, almost seven million passengers went through its gates.

The History of Keflavík International Airport

Keflavík International Airport is a relic from the ‘invasion of Iceland’ in World War Two, when Allied troops took over the island nation following the defeat of its colonial ruler, Denmark, at the hands of the Nazis.

The British laid out a landing strip in the town of Garður, but considering Iceland’s incredibly strategic position in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, one strip was not quite enough.

After taking control of the ‘occupation’, US troops constructed and opened two airfields for military purposes in 1942 and 1943. Though they returned the property after the war, the United States reclaimed it in 1951 after a controversial defence alliance with Iceland.

This pact, and the general joining of NATO in 1949, caused decades of national protest, comparable to the ‘Women’s Day Off’ marches in 1975 and the ‘Kitchenware Revolution’ which followed the 2007 economic crash. The circumstances of it, however, also allowed decades of development at Keflavík Airport.

The airport first started to separate civilian and military use in 1987, with the opening of the Leifur Eríksson Terminal. Named after the first European to settle the Americas, it would go on to handle all the guests coming to or leaving Iceland.

The arrangement that the US would provide Iceland’s defences continues to this day, but their permanent bases at Keflavík were left at the expiration of the treaty in 2006. The airport was thus moved into full control of Icelanders and has expanded as a civilian hub ever since.

Keflavík International Airport Today

Keflavík International is located on the tip of the Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland’s south-easternmost region. The drive to the capital city of Reykjavík is only about forty-five minutes, and there is a Flybus service that continuously runs between the locations, day and night.

This service provides guests with the option to stop at the Blue Lagoon en route in either direction, the iconic health spa renowned for its healing azure waters. The lagoon sits between the airport and the capital, refreshing guests after a long flight, or revitalising them in preparation for one.

The airport itself has all the modern amenities one would expect from a port that experiences so much traffic. It has restaurants, bars and cafés, banks and money transfers, car rental options available, a smoking area and, of course, many options for duty-free shopping.

Considering the price of and lack of availability of alcohol in Iceland, it is the best place to stock up on any tipple desired for your trip. Otherwise, you will have to locate specialist alcohol shops, which have limited opening hours, are sparse in the remote regions of the country, and have high taxes and duty.

The main airlines that arrive at and depart from Keflavík are the two national carriers, the prestigious Icelandair and budget airline WOW. Over thirty different carriers have chartered flights to the port, however, which head to over ninety different destinations. This is only ever increasing, with new travel routes emerging as Iceland’s popularity continues to skyrocket.

Kirkjufell, or Church Mountain, is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.

Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.

Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall

Peaking at 463 metres, 1519 feet, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers. More recently, it has attracted amateur and professional photographers alike.

Within walking distance from Kirkjufell is the serene and perfectly located waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, or Church Mountain Falls, an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-steps, gentle flow, and dramatic differences between seasons makes it as impressive as some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls.

At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area.

On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer sees it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white. Of course, it is more impressive under the midnight sun in the weeks surrounding the June equinox, and under the northern lights, best seen between September and April.

Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘North beyond the Wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, amongst others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight.

Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead”, and the events that happen beneath it are some of the show’s most dramatic.

Though heavily edited to appear inlandsand much larger than it is, it is instantly recognisable to those who recognise Kirkjufell.

Hiking Kirkjufell

There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, with another one and a half hours needed to get back to the bottom.

Alongside this mountain-track is a steeper route to the peak which involves two points where one needs to rope-climb. This route should never be attempted in the winter, and never without a certified guide.

Given the steep elevation, it is highly recommended that you bring a sturdy pair of hiking boots, snacks and water to the trail. Only take it if you are experienced and confident, as there have been fatal accidents here before.

Getting to Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, just over two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavik. From Grundarfjörður, one travels ten minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.

Búðir is a small hamlet in the municipality of Snæfellsbær on the westernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

The hamlet is located in the lava fields of Búðahraun in the region of Staðarsveit in west Iceland. Búðir consists of a church and a country hotel but is otherwise uninhabited.

History

Búðir was once a prosperous fishing village and one of Snæfellsnes' most active trading posts. Medieval sources describe Búðir as one of Iceland's major ports and archaeological evidence suggests portal activity dating back to the earliest settlement of Iceland.

In the beginning of the 19th Century, the trading post was abandoned but today, the area prospers economically because of tourism.

Surroundings

Búðir boasts the vast lava field Búðahraun that reaches east from the hamlet towards the sea by Faxaflói Bay, and west to the reef of Hraunlandarif. The lava's source can be traced to the 88-metre tall volcanic crater Búðaklettur which is located in the middle of the lava field. The crater has an opening on its south-west side, where one can enter the 382-metre long Búðahellir Cave.

Búðahraun is acclaimed for its rich flora, boasting approximately 130 different plant species. These include rare and protected species such as four leafed clovers. The eastern part of the lava field has been an official nature reservoir since 1977.

Búðir also consists of a field of tall, windswept grass, and a beach of fair-coloured sand dotted with jet black lava rocks. Hótel Búðir is a charming country hotel where visitors can enjoy the reclusiveness of the surrounding area.

Búðakirkja

All that remains of Búðir’s former community is the black wooden church Búðakirkja. A man named Bent Lauridtsen got a bishop’s permit in 1701 to build a church in the area. When it came to deciding the location, an old woman reportedly suggested making a man spin in circles until he became dazed and then have him shoot three arrows into the air. Where the third arrow landed, the church should be built.

A small turf chapel was built two years later, where it stood until it was dismissed by orders of the Danish King Christian VIII in 1819. Several residents fought for the reclamation of the church until in 1849 the priest’s council allowed for the construction of a new house of worship—as long as the residents of Búðir would fully finance the project and see to its maintenance.

A woman named Steinunn had meticulously cared for the artefacts from the old chapel, which resulted in the church still donning some of its original items, such a door latch engraved by Bent in 1703. Renovations were made in 1951, and again in the 1980s when it got slightly relocated and reconstructed according to its original Danish design.

Kirkjubæjarklaustur (referred to locally as ‘Klaustur’) is a village of approximately 120 inhabitants in the Skaftárhreppur municipality of south of Iceland.

Situated by the Ring Road, approximately 250 km (155 miles) east of Reykjavík, Klaustur is one of the few villages providing amenities such as fuel, shops, a bank and a supermarket between Vík í Mýrdal and Höfn.

History

The history of Kirkjubæjarklaustur differs, in many respects, to the traditional Icelandic settlement. “Papar”, the Icelandic title for travelling Irish monks, were thought to have settled the area long before the Norsemen.

In that tradition, it was claimed that pagans of no kind would set foot in Klaustur; this was a strictly Christian area.

Stories have permeated, with one telling of a pagan, Hildir Eysteinsson, who attempted to move there in the 10th Century. Upon setting foot across the border, he fell instantly dead and was buried on the neighbouring hill, Hildishaugur (“Hildir’s Mound.”)

Despite twisting the tongue, the full village name 'Kirkju-bæjar-klaustur' actually tells the story of the area well; 'Kirkju' means church, 'bæjar' means farm and 'klaustur' means convent.

The word 'Klaustur' was added to the original name 'Kirkjubær' in 1186 AD when a convent of Benedictine nuns settled there.

In the 364 years leading to the Reformation in 1550 AD, Klaustur did much for the oral history of south Iceland. Systrastapi (Sister’s Rock), the Systrafoss waterfall and lake Systravatn all take their names from the nun’s settlement.

Folklore

The folklore relating to these sites are rich in tales of religious heresy, superstition and death.

Sister’s Rock, for instance, has been said to be the burial site of two nuns executed for sinful behaviour. The nuns were accused of all sorts of behaviour, including selling their soul to the devil, removing communion bread from church, carnal knowledge with men, and blasphemy toward the pope.

Guilty or not, the nuns were swiftly burnt at the stake.

Following the Reformation, one of the nuns was vindicated for her actions, and it is said that flowers soon bloomed on top of her grave. The other’s grave has remained barren, a continuing reminder of the lady’s ethereal disapproval.

A short walk east of Kirkjubæjarlaustur will take you to the fascinating Kirkjugólfið “Church Floor”, an 80 square metre flat of basalt columns, shaped and formed naturally by tide and glacial melts. The aforementioned Sisters Rocks and Sisters Waterfalls can be walked to from the village as well.

These three sites are little known of, so should be visited by those avoiding the crowds.

Reynisdrangar are impressive rock formations situated near the shore of Reynisfjara beach by the coastal village Vík on the South Coast of Iceland.

The formations are the remains of large and imposing sea cliffs, made up of basalt, that serve as a vital part of the area’s allure; they shoot dramatically out of the ocean under the looming cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, making for a beautiful site, and have a folklore that is equally impressive.

More modern visitors will be excited to know that these pillars also feature in Season 7 of Game of Thrones, at Eastwatch by the Sea.

Dangerous Waves

Before getting into the wonders of Reynisdrangar, it is important for potential visitors to be aware of the dangers at the site.

These majestic rock pillars rise from the sea just off of Reynisfjara, a famous black sand beach on the South Coast, by the village of Vík. Though incredible due to its diverse and dramatic geology, Reynisfjara is gaining a notorious reputation for its sneaker waves.

There are no significant landmasses between Antarctica and Reynisfjara, giving waves the entire length of the Atlantic Ocean to build strength. This means that even on still, summer days, they can rise from seemingly nowhere and chase far further up the sand than would ever be expected.

It is absolutely imperative, therefore, that guests stay at least 30 metres (98 feet) from the water’s edge. Those who flout these rules put their lives and the lives of others at risk; people have died here before.

Folklore

As with almost all bizarre features in this country, there is an Icelandic folk tale that explains the origin of the Reynisdrangar pillars and their eerie appearance.

According to legend, a couple of trolls saw a ship out to sea by night, and waded out to reach it. They got hold of it, and began to drag it to shore, but as so often happens in troll stories, they got their timing wrong.

Before they were even close to getting to the shade, dawn broke. The trolls and ship were instantly frozen into stone, and they have remained immortalised since, as a warning to their kin.

This is not the only folk tale in this area. According to local legend, two other trolls murdered a woman, whose husband hunted them down, tricked them into coming out at night, and ensured they too were turned to stone. Their remains can be found inland.

Surroundings & Wildlife

Most visitors will only see the Reynisfjara sea-stacks from the shore of Reynisfjara, although there is an incredibly rewarding alternative view of them from above. Those with a reasonable level of fitness can venture up the bewitching cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, by a road to the west of Vík.

The mountain furthermore holds thousands of puffins every summer, from May to August. These adorable creatures have very little fear of people, and can be approached within metres (although you should never try to touch them). Other birds can be seen gliding around the cliffs such as Arctic terns, fulmars and seagulls.

The oceans of Iceland are pregnant with life, so lucky visitors may also see seals in the water, or even one of Iceland’s twenty species of whale and dolphin.

Öxarárfoss is a waterfall situated within Þingvellir National Park in southwest Iceland.

The waterfall flows out the river Öxará, cascading in two drops over the cliffs of Almannagjá gorge, which marks the eastern boundary of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

Description

The waterfall has a height of 13 metres (44 feet) and an average width of six metres (20 feet). The pool of water at the waterfall’s base is dotted with large, smooth rocks, which get especially icy in winter. The waterfall can be visited year round, but expect large crowds during the peak season of the summer.

During the depths of winter, the waterfall is entirely frozen over. Ice climbers have been known to scale it, but this should only be done with and by experts.

The geological reason is that, as mentioned, Þingvellir lies between the tectonic plates. As they pull apart, the land is torn, and thus there are many beautiful ravines and lava fields to be found.

The most famous of these ravines is Silfra. Like the others, it is filled with crystal clear glacial water, which emerges from a spring, but unlike the others, it is possible to take snorkelling and diving tours here.

The water from the crevasses such as Silfra feed into the lake Þingvellavatn; in fact, the river Öxará, which feeds Öxarárfoss, is the only source of the lake that does not come from a spring.

The historical reason that makes Þingvellir so famous is that it was the original site of the Alþing, the Icelandic parliament founded in 930 AD. This parliament continues to exist in Reykjavík but for nine centuries flourished here.

Icelanders would meet annually to pass laws, settle disputes, and share news. It was both incredibly progressive, giving a voice to all people and granting women divorces long before many other nations were considering it, and barbaric, hosting many battles and the prosecution of dozens of witches.

It is thus featured in many sagas, and though not always mentioned in them, Öxarárfoss was a witness to this long history.

One notable piece of folklore about the waterfall was that it was said to have prophetic powers for the year ahead. At midnight on New Years Eve, it would run red with either wine or blood, with the former promising prosperity ahead, and the latter warning of war.

Haukadalur is a geothermal valley in South Iceland on the popular Golden Circle route.

Lying to the north of Lake Laugarvatn, it is home to hot springs, fumaroles, mud pots and geysers, including the famous Great Geysir and the active Strokkur. The area is noted for the vivid colouration of its surrounding hills, caused by elements deep in the earth being brought to the surface by the geothermal activity.

History of Haukadalur

Haukadalur has been mentioned in historic writings as far back as 1294, in which its geysers were described following an earthquake that activated them. Since the 18th Century, it has been drawing visitors to the island including two different Kings of Denmark in 1907 and 1922.

Throughout the 20th Century, images of the Great Geysir erupting at Haukadular began to symbolise Iceland. It’s activity, however, was unreliable, so unnatural efforts were made to stimulate it more regularly, such as lowering the water table in 1935 and pumping soap into it 1981.

These, however, limited the geyser’s long-term activity, so that it rarely goes off today, although, in the early 2000s, it did have a period where it was spouting water over 140 metres (459 ft) high. Even so, the geyser Strokkur is still very active, erupting to heights of 30 metres (98 ft) every five to ten minutes.

Today, most of the near-two million visitors to Iceland will see Haukadalur Valley on their travels.

Surroundings of Haukadalur

Haukadalur Valley is located about an hour and a half’s drive inland from Reykjavík, thus making many sites of the South and West easily accessible. The most notable of these are the other points on the Golden Circle: Gullfoss Waterfall (about five minutes away) and Þingvellir National Park (about forty minutes away).

Faxi is a wide, serene waterfall in South Iceland. It can be found in the Tungufljót River.

Faxi and the Golden Circle

Faxi falls is approximately twelve kilometres (seven miles) away from Gullfoss and Geysir, two incredibly popular attractions on the Golden Circle. It is thus easy to detour from these for one extra attraction, and extend a day out.

Some guided Golden Circle tours also promise an extra stop here.

Gullfoss, otherwise known as the Golden Waterfall, is 32 metres (105 feet) tall, falling in two tiers into a beautiful canyon. It is fed by the Hvíta River, which is one of the most popular rivers for rafting in the country, accessible for novices.

Though more powerful and dramatic than Faxi, it has less of its serenity, and there are usually much bigger crowds at Gullfoss.

Geysir, meanwhile, is a geothermal area that, as its name suggests, is home to geysers. The most active of these, Strokkur, erupts to heights of up to forty metres (131 feet) every ten minutes or so.

Geysir itself has been inactive for the past few years, only going off sporadically. The area is also home to many fumaroles, hot-springs and mud-pits.

The final site of the Golden Circle, Þingvellir National Park, is a little further away, but still well worth the visit. This location sits directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift, and is an oasis of beautiful lava landscapes, forest and crystal clear streams.

This location is also a historical centre, being home to the original site of the world’s longest-running parliament. Icelanders formed it here in 930 AD, before much of the rest of Europe had even starting thinking about representative democracies.

The Golden Circle is as close to an essential-Icelandic experience there is, and Faxi is a perfect addition to extend the day.

Activities at Faxi

Hiking through the countryside around Faxi waterfall is a pleasure. Many Icelandic horses and a wealth of birdlife can be expected in summer. The area also draws those who enjoy salmon fishing, and the falls is pregnant with them.

Although it is not particularly rapid, kayaking and rafting are banned here. As mentioned, Hvíta is the rafting river of the area.

A restaurant stands on site, where guests can enjoy lunch with a beautiful view.

Other detours from the Golden Circle

The Golden Circle only takes approximately half a day to traverse if travelling from Reykjavík. There are thus many sites, alongside Faxi, that visitors could add to their sightseeing journey if travelling alone.

Those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation could enjoy the Fontana Spa at Laugarvatn, or else the secret lagoon at Flúðir. Those interest in culture could see the eco village Sólheimar, the historical settlement of Skálholt or else the greenhouses and horses at Friðheimar.

There are also many activities to be had in the area, such as snorkelling in Silfra, snowmobiling on Langjökull, or river-rafting (in summer).

The Mývatn Nature Baths are a set of geothermally heated pools and steam baths found in the Lake Mývatn area. They are about two kilometres east of the village of Reykjahlíð, and a fantastic example of Iceland’s hot spring culture.

Opened in 2004, the Mývatn Nature Baths can be considered to be somewhat of a northern equivalent of the world-famous Blue Lagoon Spa, found in Iceland's south-west. It is the only pool of its size in the area and is ever increasing in popularity. It is recommended you book tickets in advance in the summer.

Facilities and Price of the Mývatn Nature Baths

The Mývatn Nature Baths are centred around a large lagoon, which has a temperature of about 36 to 40 degrees Celsius (97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit). The water here is packed with minerals, particularly sulphur, which is said to be good for respiratory and skin problems.

There are also two steam-baths, sat directly on top of churning geothermal waters. The temperature in these is close to 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit), and humidity is near 100%, so be sure to be well hydrated before going in. The site also has a hot tub and a separate pool for young children, as well as a restaurant.

The price for adult entry is 4,200 ISK for the winter season (until the end of April) and 4,700 ISK in summer (until the end of September); 1,600 and 2000 ISK respectively for teenagers aged 13-15; 2,700 and 3,000 ISK respectively for senior citizens; and free for those 12 and younger with an adult.

Sites Around the Mývatn Nature Baths

The Mývatn region is one of the most diverse in Iceland. You will not have to drive longer than an hour from the Nature Baths to come across natural geothermal areas, such as those at Mount Námaskarð. On this pass, you will find dozens of seething fumaroles and bubbling mud pits, that dye the land vivid colours and fill the air with noxious fumes.

Nearby you will also find geological wonders, such as at Dimmuborgir. This ‘lava fortress’ is unbelievably dramatic, and steeped in folklore; it is said that this is where the thirteen evil Santas of Iceland live. It is no wonder it was used in Game of Thrones as the setting for Mance Raider’s Wildling Camp.

Another nearby site used in Game of Thrones that combines both geothermal energy and geological beauty is the Grjótagjá hot spring cave. While you cannot bathe here, you can feel the water and see where Jon Snow and his Wildling lover consumated their relationships.

The lake Mývatn itself is beautiful and renowned for its birdlife, with over a dozen species of duck, to say nothing of the other species. Those interested in flora will be interested to know that this is one of the few places in the world where you can see moss balls.

The Mývatn area is also considered a point on the Diamond Circle, so it is close to other incredible places of the North, such as Goðafoss and Dettifoss Waterfalls.

Námaskarð Pass is a geothermal area on the mountain Námafjall, in north Iceland, less than half an hour’s drive from Lake Mývatn. It is located by Route 1, which encircles the country.

Connected to the Krafla volcano system, Námaskarð is home to many hot-springs, mud-pots and fumaroles.

Geography of Námaskarð

Námaskarð is notable due to its barrenness; no vegetation grows on its slopes. This is due to the heat beneath the earth, the high levels of acidity in the soil, and poisonous fumes being expelled.

That is not to say, however, that the site is dull; its life comes from the vivid colours that streak through the earth, dyed by the elements brought up with the steam. Expect to see shades of red, orange, yellow and green, particularly concentrated around the springs themselves.

The air smells intensely of sulphur throughout the area, which, while unpleasant, is a constant reminder of the powerful forces at work beneath your feet. Though it would be damaging for your health to spend too long breathing it, a visit for a few hours will not cause any problems.

While exploring Námaskarð, be sure not to touch any of the running water, as it is likely to be boiling. Also, give all the hot springs a reasonably wide berth, as the land surrounding them may be unstable, with scalding steam just beneath the surface.

Námaskarð is about 400 metres (1312 ft) above sea level.

Surroundings of Námaskarð

Námaskarð is situated between the mighty waterfalls of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river (which include Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss) and the Lake Mývatn area, making it a natural part of anyone’s itinerary if they are exploring the north from Akureyri or Mývatn.

Those travelling the Diamond Circle are also encouraged to make a stop here if they have time.

Lagarfjlót is a narrow lake in the east of Iceland, also known as Lögurinn.

This feature is best known for its natural beauty, its fishing, and its folklore.

Folklore at Lagarfjlót

No doubt the most fascinating thing about Lake Lagarfjlót is its folklore, and the feature has long attracted the superstitious to East Iceland.

According to legend, the deep lake is said to hold a beast called the Lagarfljót Wyrm, a cousin of the Loch Ness Monster with a lot more history. While the earliest significant records of Nessie go back to the 1870s, the Lagarfjlót Wyrm has been spoken about since 1345.

Even today, videos and photos emerge of disruption at the surface of the lake, said to be the venom spitting beast. While most are attributed to logs, currents, ice and wind, there are a few that have experts puzzled, with no concrete answer as to what they could be.

As such a little culture has arisen around the lake, and you can see figurines and sculptures depicting different interpretations of this elusive serpent.

Of course, however, there has been no concrete evidence to suggest anything lives in the lake other than trout and other fish. If you are interested in fishing for these, you will need a license.

Sites near Lagarfljót

Any visitor to East Iceland will no doubt see Lagarfljót, as it is located right next to the Capital of the East, Egilsstaðir. This is the region’s largest town and its commerce centre. Many of its accommodation options are set against the lake edge.

Iceland’s largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur, also sits on its shores. This is an amazing place for birdwatching, and where the forest and lake meet, one can find a wealth of ducks, geese and other water birds.

Lake Lagarfljót is also near to the beautiful falls Hengifoss. This is Iceland’s third tallest waterfall, with a height of 128 metres (420 feet).

The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are amongst the many geological wonders of the Snæfellnes peninsula. Once a volcanic crater, all that remains after aeons of ocean battering are two great pillars upon a cliff, one 75 metres (246 ft) high and the other 61 metres (200 ft). Their dramatic scale earning this incredible formation the nickname ‘the rocky castle’.

The cliffs can be accessed easily from the Visitor’s Centre, through fields of mossy lava, but they can also be seen from the sea. Surfing is relatively popular in the area and doing so in the shadows of these great peaks only adds to the experience.

The surrounding lands are steeped in folklore; farmers have never made use of the fields around the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs due to the elves that are rumoured to live there. Nearby, at Þúfubjarg cliff, it was said that the poet Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld met the devil and struck a deal with him.

Djúpalónssandur is an arched-shaped bay of dark cliffs and black sand, located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland.

History & Monuments

The location was once home to a prosperous fishing village, similar to other abandoned hamlets and ports of the area such as Búðir and Hellnar. These thrived back when the Snæfellsnes Peninsula functioned as one of the most active trading posts of the island, but now are simply centres for tourism.

Fascinating remnants of this period are found in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 lbs) to 155 kg (342 lbs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. Their names are Amlóði (useless), Hálfdrættingur (weakling), Hálfsterkur (half-strong) and Fullsterkur (full-strong).

Even today, you can see how you would have fared working on Iceland's dangerous seas.

In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished.

Environment & Surroundings

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula boasts countless natural wonders, where locals and travellers both flock on a daily basis to enjoy the unique landscape and stunning coastlines. Djúpalónssandur’s black pebble beach is particularly stunning with its rocky coastal lava formations, which include the elusive Gatklettur, a large lava rock with a hole in the middle through which you can directly spot the Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano.

Behind the rock are two freshwater lagoons called Djúpulón and Svörtulón, with the former serving as the namesake of the bay. Though believed in olden times to be bottomless, the water bodies were later revealed to reach the depth of just five metres.

Lagoons such as these are held in high regard amongst the Icelandic people, and Svörtulón is thought to possess healing properties, especially after having been blessed by Bishop Guðmundur góði ('the good') in the late 1100s.

A natural monument of the area is Söngklettur, or “singing rock”, a large lava rock with a reddish hue that resembles an elfish church. Other rock formations of folklorish appeal rest close by, including the alleged trolls-turned-to-stone Kerling and Lóndrangar.

Warning

When visiting Djúpalónssandur, take heed that these are treacherous waters and the Atlantic Ocean’s powerful suction can easily carry you out to sea. This beach is not one for wading, but enjoying from a safe distance, especially if the weather is stormy.

The video below shows the power and shocking speed of sneaker waves that occur at locations such as Djúpalónssandur and Reynisfjara in the south.

The glistening pebbles that make up the beach known as Djúpalónsperlur, or “pearls of the deep lagoon”, are gorgeous to look at and might seem appealing to stone collectors, but they are protected by law and should not be removed from the area by visitors.

Hallormsstaðaskógur is Iceland's largest national forest, found in East Iceland near Egilsstaðir. The area is a famous for its pleasant hiking trails, wildlife and collection of tree species.

Development

For a largely treeless landscape, a forest in Iceland is something of an enigma. However, the reforestation service of Iceland cares for 53 patches of public access land, most of which are easily accessible for travellers on the Ring Road. Hallormsstaðaskógur is Iceland’s largest forest (though small by the standards of other nations) covering 740 square kilometres.

Initial experiments in planting trees began as early as 1903, though large scale cultivation truly began in 1950. In 1905, Hallormsstaðaskógur was labelled a protected forest. Ever since then, and spite of its diminutive expanse, the forest has been greatly venerated by the local population as an area of respite from the often barren, volcanic terrain of the island.

Common tree species include native dwarf birch and mountain birch, as well as over 80 different species of tree brought from 177 locations overseas. Birds such as redpolls, goldcrests and ravens all use the forest as a sanctuary from predators, with red wings, snipes and meadow pipits joining the fray in the summer months. The area also presents opportunities for botany, as well as berry and mushroom picking. Streams running through the forest are perfectly drinkable spring water.

To Do

In June, Hallormsstaðaskógur hosts Skógardagurinn, or “Forest Day”, a weekend of accordion music, active festivities and hot-blooded competition amongst the birch trees. Here, festival-goers can enjoy logging competitions, grilled lamb served by local farmers, art exhibitions and even mini-marathons (one 4km long, the other 14km.) The Skógardagurinn celebrations are a fantastic treat for all the family and provide great insight into the culture of Iceland’s less visited regions.

There are two camping areas in Hallormsstaðaskógur: Atlavík, located in the picturesque tree cover of the inner-forest, and Höfðavík, a site providing a more luxurious standard of service for visitors.

Viðgelmir is the largest lava tube in Iceland at 1585 metres (5200 ft) long. It is located in the country’s west, and is one of the most popular destinations for lava tubing.

Geography and Geology of Viðgelmir

Viðgelmir is situated in the Borgarfjörður of west Iceland, beneath the Hallmundarhraun lava field. It was formed during a lava flow that occurred in the area in 900 AD.

Lava tubes are formed when a river of running lava cools from the outside, creating a solid shell. When the liquid lava within this flows out, a cave is left remaining.

This river must have been vast, as it left the largest cave in the country. Not only is it the longest, but also its widest, with the walls 16.5 metres (54 feet) apart at one point, and the highest, which the ceiling up to 15.8 metres (52 feet) above the ground.

As with many lava caves in Iceland, Viðgelmir has both lava stalactites, which come from the ceiling, and stalagmites, from the ground. The former were formed when lava at the top part of the cave cooled as it dripped from above, and the latter indicated where this lava landed, pooled and began to stack.

Unlike in limestone caves, these features never grow back if broken off, thus it is absolutely essential that you do not touch them or attempt to break them off. There are large fines for those who break these rules, and many of the more beautiful features are cordoned off.

Lava Caving in Viðgelmir

Viðgelmir is one of the country’s most popular lava caves, and the easiest to traverse for beginners.

Unlike lava caves such as Leiðerendi on the Reykjanes Peninsula, Viðgelmir has a paved walkway and installed lights. This means those who are less confident on their feet do not need to worry about the uneven lava or relying on their own torch.

The scale of the cave also makes walking it much less challenging, as there is no crawling, stooping or clambering needed to get through.

History of Viðgelmir

Viðgelmir is one of the many caves in Iceland that humans were known to have lived in.

Through Iceland’s medieval period, it was a common punishment for criminals to be outlawed from society. Many of these moved into caves and lived out their lives as notorious bandits.

It is very likely, considering the age of the evidence found, that this was the case in Viðgelmir. These artefacts are now kept in the National Museum of Iceland.

The South Coast of Iceland is the country's most visited sightseeing route, along with the Golden Circle.

This incredible shoreline stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east and is lined with countless natural wonders such as cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and glaciers.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Route 1 highway (the Ring Road), which encircles Iceland. The area consists of a diverse lowland that transitions between, marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Its edges reach several hundred metres offshore where the ocean waves crash upon them, thereby protecting the lowland from the invasion of the sea. This results in the South Coast being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

The region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey, including the North Atlantic puffin between May and August. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

Highlights of the South Coast

When driving the route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days from these beautiful cascades, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the outlet of Sólheimajökull.

The aforementioned Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Even if you come outside of puffin season, they are well worth a visit; jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, home to the rock pillars of Reynisdrangar, said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. Though beautiful, this area is gaining notoriety for its dangerous sneaker waves, so visitors should be sure to stay well away from the edge of the water, even on a calm, still day.

There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík, you will cross the glacial sand plain of Skeiðarársandur, before entering Vatnajökull National Park, home to the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull itself, dozens of glacial outlets and the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

While almost all of these sites can be seen from Route 1, they make up a fraction of what the South Coast has to offer. The vast sand plains of Sólheimasandur are home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck, and within the Vatnajökull National Park is the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall, and short distances from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where icebergs wash on the black-sand shore, and another glacier lagoon, Fjallsárlón.

The Diamond Beach is a strip of black sand belonging to the greater Breiðamerkursandur glacial plain, located by Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon on the South Coast of Iceland.

Here, the icebergs which fill Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon wash up on shore, standing dazzling and defiant in stark contrast to the black sand beach. It is, therefore, a favourite amongst photographers, nature-lovers, and wildlife-enthusiasts. Many seals call this beach home, and it is one of the best places in the country to see orcas from the shore.

Breiðamerkursandur

Breiðamerkursandur is a glacial outwash plain located in the municipality of Hornafjörður. The sand stretches approximately 18 kilometres along Iceland’s South Coast, more specifically from the foot of Kvíárjökull Glacier to the famed glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón, that nests by the foot of Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier.

Both glaciers make up part of the 30 outlets of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest ice cap and the central feature of the Vatnajökull National Park. Many of these are seen en route to the Diamond Beach as you travel along the South Coast.

The outwash plain was formed when three of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers, Breiðamerkurjökull, Hrútárjökull and Fjallsjökull, flowed forward due to volcanic activity and ground the rocks of the underlying surface, creating and pushing forward the glacial sediments.

Such sand plains are a common part of the Icelandic landscape, due to the island being volcanically active as well as boasting numerous ice caps. The terminus (the tip of a given glacier) also dug deep into the ground and left what is now the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Although now the deepest lake in all of Iceland, it only began to form in 1935.

The glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach are fantastical sites, however, the rate of their expansion is, unfortunately, a consequence of climate change. With the rate that the glaciers are melting, there may be no ice left at either site within decades.

Jökulsárlón Icebergs

Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is one of the most famed and visited attractions in Iceland. Floating on the lagoon are enumerable icebergs that have broken off the resident glacier, creating an ever-changing scenery of incredible allure.

The river Jökulsá connects the lagoon to the Atlantic Ocean, meaning that these icebergs eventually drift out to sea where they are polished by the waves before floating back to the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur. The name ‘Diamond Beach’ thus comes from the white ice on the black sand appearing like gemstones or diamonds, as they often glisten in the sun and sharply contrast their jet black surroundings.

Safety at the Diamond Beach

The Diamond Beach is a safe place for any responsible traveller; unlike at Reynisfjara, another South Coast black-sand-beach, sneaker waves and rip currents are not notorious for whisking unwitting tourists out to sea. However, there are still dangers to consider.

The main one of these is the icebergs themselves. Under no circumstance should you climb upon an iceberg, due to their slippery surfaces and sharp edges.

This is especially the case if the iceberg is at all in the water, as it could flip and trap you underneath, or else be pulled out to sea by a current with you on it.

The risk of injury and illness in the form of hypothermia is so great that extortionate fines exist to deter any ‘rebels’ looking for a thrill-seek. These have only come about due to serious incidents, to protect not only tourists at the lagoon but guides and staff who may feel obligated to embark on a dangerous rescue if they see someone at risk.

Iceland has one main road: Route 1, or the Icelandic Ring Road. This ring road goes all around the island and is 1,332 kilometres long (828 miles), allowing visitors to see all regions bar the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Perhaps most importantly, the road connects the capital, Reykjavík, to the second biggest city in Iceland, Akureyri, in the north of the country.

In the east, there is the largest forest in Iceland, Hallormsstaðaskógur, and the lake Lagarfljót, said to contain a monster, records for which date back centuries before the Loch Ness Monster.

In the north, the most notable features are Lake Mývatn and Goðafoss waterfall. In the west are many historical settlements and beautiful fjords.

History of the Ring Road

The road was completed in 1974, with the opening of Iceland's longest bridge, which crosses Skeiðará river in southeast Iceland. In 1998 a tunnel below the fjord Hvalfjörður shortened the drive around Iceland by about one hour and it offers a straight and easy alternative to a winding fjord.

The Hvalfjörður tunnel is the largest tunnel in Iceland, 5.8 kilometres (3.6 miles) long and an impressive 165 metres (541 feet) below sea level. The ring road has another tunnel called Almannaskarð in the southeast by Höfn, and the Vaðlaheiðar tunnel in north Iceland is due to open in the North Iceland which is set to shorten the drive from Akureyri to Húsavík by 16km.

In wintertime, most of the ring road is kept open, with the exception of a short passage in the eastern part of the country that may be closed due to heavy snow (a detour is needed to travel from the north to the east during wintertime).

Good to Know

The ring road consists mainly of paved two lanes road (one each direction). Some sections of the ring road are original 1940s country roads demanding caution when driving with features such as many sharp curves, blind curves, blind summits as well as single lane bridges.

The speed limit is 90km per hour on the paved section of the road (lower when it passes through towns), and 80km per hour on gravel.

The ring-road can be driven in a two-wheel-drive throughout the year, but it is highly recommended you rent a four-wheel-drive if travelling between October and May.

Guide to Iceland would advise people to drive cautiously on the ring road both in summer and wintertime, but also to explore other roads leading from it to multiple attractions. Be sure that if you want to stop to take a picture, make sure you have turned off into a safe parking area. Stopping on the Ring Road itself can be very dangerous for you and other travellers using it.

Fossatún is a country hotel, renowned for being a centre to learn about Iceland’s troll folklore.

Nearby are Troll Waterfalls; in the cliffs next to them, the formation of a troll face can be seen amongst the rocks. For those staying at the hotel, there is a troll walk, where visitors can learn many local tales while enjoying the verdant countryside. The beautiful Skessuhorn mountain dominates the scenery, and the rushing river Grímsá is an excellent place to watch salmon jumping in summer.

The Diamond Circle is a famed 260-kilometre sightseeing route in the northeast of Iceland, characterised by its sheer number of natural attractions, picturesque settlements and fantastic landscapes.

The Diamond Circle is available for those who wish to drive the route themselves, as well as those who would prefer to partake in a guided tour of the region.

The Diamond Circle is considered the northeastern alternative to the wildly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, beginning just forty minutes from Iceland’s western capital, Reykjavík, and comprised of the three major sites Þingvellir National Park, Geysir Geothermal Valley and Gullfoss Waterfall.

Attractions

The route’s four main attractions are Lake Mývatn, Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss, the horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi and the fishing town of Húsavík, known primarily for its fantastic whale watching opportunities.

This range of attractions and points of interest is the Diamond Circle’s greatest draw, pulling in travellers who are looking to experience some of Iceland’s most dramatic, authentic and beautiful features.

Other sites on the Diamond Circle include the likes of Goðafoss Waterfall, Vatnajökull National Park, the volcanic fortress of Dimmuborgir (“Dark Castles”), Æðafossar (“Eider Falls”), Hljóðaklettar (“Echo rocks” or “The Whispering Cliffs”) and Laugar swimming pool.

Do note, however, that not all tour operators travel to each of these attractions. If you are looking to visit each location individually, with nothing missed, it is highly recommended to drive the sightseeing route yourself.