Aspiring models will have to show a doctor's certificate declaring them healthy, taking into account their body mass index, the key measure of healthy weight. The fashion industry persuaded the government that selfregulation-would work better than an outright ban.

But Mario Gori, who runs the Glamour modelling agency, dismissed the agreement as "totally useless".

He said: "We are against any form of discrimination on the basis of size or weight. It's affected by factors such as bone structure, which vary according to the person's constitution."

The deaths of two South American models from anorexia threw the industry into turmoil last year, and in September Madrid banned models with a BMI under 18 from the catwalk.

Mr Gori claimed that under such a ban Naomi Campbell, who he claims has a BMI of 16, would not be allowed to model. He said: "I challenge anyone to say that Naomi is anorexic."

Leading designer Fausto Sarli also attacked decision to try to ban size-zero models from Italy's catwalks.

He said: "If you try to stop well-paid models working, they will kill you. Among all the models, only two or three are really anorexic. They work for Armani, for Valentino. How are you going to throw them out?"

Many other leaders in the Italian fashion industry are reluctant to enforce any rules on the weight of models on their catwalks.

Mario Boselli, the president of Italian fashion's governing body, said: "It's not true that only girls with a BMI over 18 will be allowed to model. We were the first to declare