December 3, 2009

Warm Winter Sheath Secret – Tricot Lining

I made this simple sheath in the early 2000’s. I call it my walk to church dress because it is so warm. It’s only been washed by hand, never dry cleaned.

Front of Wool Jersey Sheath

It hangs ignored in the closet for most of the year until it becomes very cold outside.

"Old Faithful" Winter Sheath

I lined this wool jersey dress with nylon tricot and the tricot lining is what makes this dress so perfect for when the temperatures are at, or below, freezing.

The substantial, low static, and inexpensive tricot, a nylon knit, is from SewSassy. This little company is a wonderful fabric and notions source and I’ve gotten excellent advice over the phone when I’ve needed it. If you haven’t tried this sewing source you should do yourself the favor of adding them to your list of trusted suppliers.

But back then I was returning to sewing after many years without a sewing machine and I didn’t use commercial patterns. All my sewing was based on patterns designed by me and generated using the pattern drafting software and there were no how-to instructions. I relied on the training I had from growing up with my mother; and information I could get from the software’s message board. I don’t think I had even joined Pattern Review yet since I didn’t use patterns.

So here I had rather scratchy wool jersey from FabricMartFabrics.com. I had never sewn wool jersey before but I knew I didn’t want it next to my skin! The tricot would feel so much better and it would stretch!

I dove in and lined this dress by joining the tricot to the dress at the neckline (Amazing, I remembered to under stitch)

Inside of dress at the collar band

and hand hemmed the sleeves after serging the jersey and tricot together at the cut edges (I didn’t have any way to get a correct sleeve length at the flat pattern stage, oh my! and I was in love with my very first serger, a used Janome LOL)

Sleeve Hem - What a Mess!

and hemmed the bottoms separately

Machine Hemmed with Twin Needle and Wooly Nylon!

Today, I would worry more about the construction details like thread colors, stitch length and seam techniques but back then I was hurrying to finish for a function where I needed to wear it. I remember stitching the sleeve hems in the hotel room. You just never know when the inside stitching will need to be gorgeous!

Little did I know back then I’d be blogging this dress so that you could make something very warm this winter if needed. But enough of my illiterate wanderings in the sewing desert that was my life: the point of this post is:

For a minute there I thought I was having one of my “floater” spells! The dress is a classic and using that tricot is wonderful advice. You did well for someone just getting back into the fray and just think of your current skill level. Wow.

I appreciate your experience with this dress, using the tricot as a lining for the wool jersey. I, too, have a piece of jade wool jersey that I had been mulling over the issue of lining a dress of slightly scatchy wool. Now I feel that I can move forward on this project. I do like your dress; it looks great on you. Thanks!!

Thank you for the nice remarks about Sew Sassy. I started this business with one bolt of fabric and a roll of lace. It has had its ups and downs but we hung in there and it is what it is today. 35 years is a long time to be in the Lingerie sewing supply business. Lately we have lost so many wonderful suppliers it is so sad. One of my suppliers who made our bra straps had been in business 85 years and went under. I loved him so much he was such a wonderful person and always ready to help in any way he could. Thanks for your trust in our products. Have a wonderful holiday.