My best trick: a long, fast and hollow wall with a big drop on a 2 meters wave. Because of the currents, I was happy to have my biggest board, a 7'3". (i am not Kelly Slater...). We were only 2 surfers at this peak and it was good to pick just the good ones.

last lesson with zed. awesome session again. started really working the waves to the end and turning. big improvements. thought about taking on soup bowl tomorrow but i'm a pussy and "its too big this time of year." maybe next time. for tomorrow, freights again.

lesson with Jr. it was a good day. first day out for me since july '06 in jersey so needless to say it took me a few to get going. freights is a beautiful place though. junior pushed me into most of these waves. didn't really work them much.

After a few visits to Playa Norte, I decided to walk over to La Isla to check it out. Had lunch at one of the places in front of the beach and sat upstairs to check out the waves. There were a lot of children catching the small shore break with bodyboards.

Out about 40m from there was a nice right that breaks away from a bunch of rocks near the boardwalk area. There were a good deal of surfers in this area and some of them were able to catch the wave all the way to the beach, a nice ride. The only problem was that they had to dodge about 50 bodyboard/surfers in the way, and then at the beach there were tons of kids. I saw multiple collisions and many more near collisions. Lots of kids with very sharp pointed boards who didn't care who was in front of them. One Brazillian surfer returned to the hotel with a decent hole in his back from getting rammed by a sharp board.

Out a lot farther there appeared to be a reef break that looked pretty big and fun (Kon Tiki), but was a bit too much for me. You can enter near the beach (long swim) or you can enter up the boardwalk a ways near where the rocks jut out into the water (good swimmers only, lots of rocks).

The shore break was pretty fun with the bodyboard. It's easy to eat sand though. Huge beach area with few rocks. Waves closed out pretty quick here though.

The second area is where I spent most of my time and had a blast. I was able to avoid getting hit by other people (had to bail and duck under the water a few times). Lots of competition for waves but I was able to catch my share.

Nice beach area to take a break on between sessions (though crowded in summer). Local shops/restaurants with fresh fish, cold drinks, ice cream, etc. Not sure how busy this area is during other parts of the year, but the city is settled by a good deal of permanent residents, so it's not a total ghost town.

I'd been here before, but on a small day. This time it was a good sized day but with a super short period. Looking out from the hotel in the morning it was all foam and quite a mess out there. No one surfing here on a summer morning is rare. Things calmed down a bit by the afternoon so I decided to give it a shot.

While walking down to the beach we saw a couple people carrying just the tips and ends of their broken boards. As I was putting on my fins and such there was one guy searching all over the beach for parts of his board. After 20m or so he finally found a piece.

On a bigger day like this there were some really nice shore breaks on both sides of the beach. The north is the common area which is good on small days, but on this big day the south side had some nice tubular waves, but they closed out a ton. It made for some really entertaining wipe outs. I saw a number of experienced surfers having a lot of problems paddling out because they had to duck dive every 5s!

I finally gave it 2 tries, but all I did was duck wave after wave, sometimes having to stay under for extended time due to 2 waves coming in together. I got the snot pounded out of me and finally cramped up before being able to get out past the break. You better be a hell of a strong swimming to come here on a day with 9-11s period.

When we arrived we saw guys coming out with broken boards. I got a big ding in mine this day too, as did two of my mates. The water was completely crowded and at one stage no one could get out through huge, pushing whitewash. On the back it was smooth and high walls.

Well I wanted to cry.All I wanted to do today was surf.Walked on the beach and a guy running out with broken board.Great start.Got on back line surfed one out and could not get back out.It was a bummer.But sitting out on back line and watching Gods glory was great fun(and guys wipping ha ha)

The forecasting were good yesterday and I woke up early to catch some waves. The first surprise was that I was completely alone on the beach. The sets were solid so I hesitated to go to surf. It was a good decision: I get some rely good waves. a solid 1.5m, a little bumpy but very hollow and long.