Description

Route starts at the top of the trail from the parking lot to Supercrack Buttress. Follows the obvious chalked hand crack in a corner through a large overhang. Lieback up the corner to the roof. Jam out the roof with perfect hands (crux) to a great rest at the end (#3 Camalot). Finish up the corner to a bolt anchor at 95 feet. It really is incredible! Get there early because lines will form on the weekends.

Getting onto the initial pillar, about 20', can be difficult unless you jam it. I liebacked with a green FCU at 8' and pumped out, unable to get in a piece in higher, about a foot below the pillar top. Use a #2 camalot to get on top of the pillar and recover it if you feel the need once you're on top. The landing area only has one rock, but it has a knob on it. A spotter kept my groundfall (with the pulled green FCU) from becoming a broken leg.

I've only been to IC once in my life and that was last spring break (2001), but let me just say that being over here in Germany for the semester and not even being able to climb (Northern Germany is nothing but flat flat flat..) Looking and thinking about IC is just giving me a hard on the size of Texas. I'm already starting to train again just to get my muscles in some kind of shape to hit it hard again this spring break!!!!!!

It's common to see this rated 5.10c and Supercrack 5.10. I really can't understand that. I have perfectly average sized hands, and Supercrack (both the technical start, and the crack itself) feels like it's in a different league of difficulty altogether. I can't bring myself to think of IHC as any harder than 9+, whereas I'd call Supercrack solid 10+. Perfect hands (even with an overhang, it has no-hands rests both before and after the crux) should be easier than sustained wide hands with no rests.

But maybe, if you have excellent wide hands technique, Supercrack could feel even easier I suppose. Now I'm just confusing myself.

whatever you want to rate it this is an excellent route that should not be missed. If you feel comfortable leading just about any other route in I.C. then you will enjoy this one and it will keep you coming back for years to come.

It is best to have your second follow this route as you belay from above or you risk pushing your cams into the crack with your rope if you top rope it.

Agreed, simply lowering off can suck cams way into the crack near the crux. When we did this, my brand new #2 Camalot was pulled so far in I could barely touch the stem. Fortunately 10 minutes fishing for the trigger with a cleaning tool got it out.

The crack is getting wider. It gets done more than my belayers sister. Anyway I think the rating is historical. It is unbelievably locker now but probably not so when this crack was more virgin. Once it becomes Incredible Fist Stack Crack it probably will have shorter lines.

IHC is definitely .9 And the worst part is that its because of excessive traffic. I climbed it first only like seven years ago and couldn't get my hands into the crack. I remember there was one part to SQUEEZE a #2 Camalot in at the lip of the crux; I think people manking gear around in that pre crux manic attack have increased the wear. It's a shame people don't redistribute the wear a bit. climb some other cracks and definitely try not to top rope the whole team up the thing. Have some respect. I wonder if most people even realize the all that white rock is from wear, ditto on Supercrack, fingers,

I don't mourn the wear on IHC. I mourn the ridiculous hoards of climbers who flock to Supercrack Buttress. I still can't figure out why everyone stays on this one cliff, when Indian creek has countless cliffs of excellent quality, with short approaches. Go do some FA's for Pete's sake! There are a million IHC's and Supercrack's at the Creek, and many haven't even been climbed.

Stellar climb with nary a variance in size the whole way. This crack was made for #2 Camalots. I recall placing about 9 of that particular cam and sewing it up - super fun route. Exactly 100' to the anchors.

Oh my god. This climb is sooo much fun. I want to mate with the Incredible Handcrack and make baby IHCs that will hopefully resemble the original. The wear and tear of climbers is taking its toll on this route so get on it soon.

In the Kalymnos guidebook under the entry for the route Trela it quotes a spanish climber as saying "Oh my god, how could I have existed without having done this climb". IHC might be considered the crack climbers equivalent.

Ok, maybe I am exagerating it a little bit, but this climb is really fun.

The new guide suggests 6-7 2.5 Friends....ya they don't work. #2 BD and #3 Friends work really good. After the roof you can get a pretty good #3 BD placement in a small pod. It takes a little looking to see the placement.

This is probably the best single pitch route I've ever been on. The crack is sustained perfect hands (for me) and eats gear. Make sure you have a ton of BD #2 cams with you. I think I racked with 7 #2s, 2 #3s, and 1 #1. The #1 can be placed in the thinner part of the crack at the very beginning. It's #2s the rest of the way with exception of one #3 placement at the beginning of the overhang section.

Pretty damn incredible. Bomber hands the whole way. 5.fun if your hands are yellow c4 size. There are several great rests (before the roof, after the roof and a bit higher) that make the climb feel super mellow. Use the rests and move efficiently through the roof you shouldn't even feel pumped.

5.10c? Most of this route was tight for my hands, but not .10c tight. I got tired in the roof and hung out on hand & foot jams to rest before continuing up. No way I see myself doing that at the crux on a .10c!

To me the roof seemed easier than the crux move to the pedestal on Super Crack but harder than the main event of Super Crack, which for me was comfortable cupped hands.

This climb ended up being a bit easier than I thought! There's lots of rests. One on the pedestal, one right above that. Another rest before the roof. Than like 7 rest spots 4ft above the roof move. Still classic though! 3AM was way more burly in my opinion. I've never gasped so hard for air in my life finishing that route.