After good experience from my Tablet-PC, I started looking for something more powerful for better drawings. Because I not like to play with mechanical part and have limited money, there's only one options: buy a screen from TabletPC and connect it to my computer. Quick research and I found and buy screen from Fujitsu (yep, same brand) T5010 laptop/tablet. Seller was marked as recycling company and probably sell parts from broken tablets as spare parts instead of utilizing them. But that's very good for me because complete screen was quite cheap. Also seller guarantee me that whole display have few scratches but LCD and digitizer are tested and 100% working.

It's easy to find datasheet for HV133WX1-100 LCD panel. The Wacom digitizer is SU5E-13W01AS-01X that works as ISDv4 serial unit. Screen comes with assfucking connector, but fortunately I also received complete screen cables. One problem less.

It's also easy to disassemble mobo connectors and solder cable's terminals to almost anything. I found strange HDD adapter from broken laptop (note, it's 2mm pitch) and solder wires directly into it. So far do good.

After about a year I found free time to make few small steps forward. First 3D modeling for the case. I wish to 3D print the case. Full black (or full white) plastic, screwed to the screen and create nice angle for the screen. But after few measurement I finished with few plywood parts screwed together.

LVDS converter and WaxBee converter will be hidden under the screen and create useful angle. The case will also have a vertical standing option. This allow me to use just TSUMv59 board as a portable screen for PC, laptop, console, camera or watching movies (USB input and single 10-15V supply).

And it's my test cable, compatible with breakout board. You may see this on first post. Nothing special, just enough for the first test. I decided to run and test all electronic, then disassembly it and start building from mechanical case.

I have complete screen case. WaxBee and LVDS converter won't fit here. Thus I add extra space made of plywood. I chose TSUMv59 (very nice thing) and Pro Micro (cheaper than Teensy and not much harder to use) and made case designed for them.

Sorry about long delay. I need to sell one of my Pro Micros to my friend (ASAP project, even 24h waiting for original board will ruin it). I think that I still have second one, but it's disappear so extra 40 days of waiting. One problem solved, few next appear.

But I lost half day and two 22 ohm resistors on PCB without positive effect. Looks like signal from Atmega32U4 need to past through micro-USB connector, then I can cut cable and pass signal through USB-B adapter and next cable. I will test this solution later. Today I will stay with delicate micro USB socket.

I have finished small PCB which I used to earlier tests. I should remove it, but 3.3V LDO fits here nicely. I only use 3 wires: VCC, GND and RX because digitizer should work without any extra command. This decision was big mistake. Digitizer can run without commands but cannot run with random commands - RX pin floating. As a result, WaxBee perfectly read X/Y position but cannot read buttons and pressure Finding cause of the problem was rather funny. As soon as I connect RX pin to VCC, problems disappear. But later I decide to play fair and connect digitizer RX to WaxBee TX via extra 1k resistor (standard 10k resistor are build-in on digitizer board).

Let's finish this project (and start another). All pieces on back of my screen. Removed white connector from LCD/LVDS cable. Added small prototype PCB for buttons and LEDs. Board for digitizer glued to the plywood.

Pro micro stick behind USB connector. All pieces connected. Extra space will be utilized by potentiometer (attached to one of ADC inputs) as soon as I discover how to recompile WaxBee firmware with adding extra piece of code (the idea: analog -> PWM -> backlight dimming).

Hello ErtewI have purchased one of those pro micro clones for the purpose of making USB on my Wacom digitizer (SU-025-C02) and I would want to know if you know how to flash the pro micro with Waxbee. Could you tell me how to flash waxbee on the pro micro? Thank You!

Hello. Thanks to write anything in my topic. This sends me email notification that You need a help. However this topic is all about my build and I don't want to mess here. For help about burning firmware into AtMega32u4 please read this topic and ask here if You have any questions: http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/index.php?topic=2556.msg21860