uncleroby

philipstjohn

I would try to buy a service manual especially if you plan to do some work on your own bike. It makes things alot easier and you will get it done right the first time. With my 650R, I do the oil and filter every 600 miles, check the downtube screen, (its always been clean), change out the air filter and do the typical inspections of the bike per the manual. I am sure this maintenance schedule is based on Racing applications, but remember you only have approx 2 qts of oil doing double duty in a big bore 650.

martinfan30

On the very bottom of the frame downtube reservoir right under the drain you'll see a fitting. Loosen the fitting and you'll see the the screen. Mines always spotless but what can I say about yours. IMHO I think its the most usefull during break in as the filter should catch everything long before it gets to the screen but I check it anyway.

there is another one in the right side case of the eng. should be done every once in a while.

cefox

I run Lucas semi-synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil in all my bikes. Change it every 1500 miles along with the filter,clean the screens every 3rd change. More often If iI ride alot of slow trails.noticed several people saying they change the filter every other oil change, isn't that kinda like showering then putting dirty clothes on?? Theres still a significant amount of dirty oil in the engine if you don't change the filter.

martinfan30

I run Lucas semi-synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil in all my bikes. Change it every 1500 miles along with the filter,clean the screens every 3rd change. More often If iI ride alot of slow trails.noticed several people saying they change the filter every other oil change, isn't that kinda like showering then putting dirty clothes on?? Theres still a significant amount of dirty oil in the engine if you don't change the filter.

ya i agree. filters are cheap insurance. i would never run a used filter with fresh oil.

Rman of 237

Good advice if you are running a stock bike the way it was supposed to be ridden. I'm far away from stock, and ride like a jerk. I don't run synthetic in my dirt machines, because you don't really get the properties of synthetic oils unless you don't change your oil frequently:thumbsup:. I do use Synthetic grease for ALL my machines including my vehicles, and marine toys. I don't even use synthetic in my boat , as you have to change it yearly used or not!Another argument is the fact most of us are using wet clutches. Go ride a track or tight woods on a hot dusty day and see what your oil looks like. Slipping that clutch contaminates the oil and starts to clog the screens and filter. I prefer to be safe than sorry.Working in heavy industry I run across this problem frequently. Ingersoll requires you to use their lable oil to keep your warranty. At 6000$ an oil change I sent the oil to the lab. Guess what, I can get the same oil (different manufacturer) for 1500$ an oil change. Once the warrantys are over I wonder what OIL I will use??I work in the automotive industry, and know first hand how it works. Service parts and work is the big three's most profitable game.

rangerman

Thanks. So, you guys are recommending I switch to NORMAL automotive oil like Quaker state 10w-30? And, are these screens also on the older xr600's? I will switch soon. I like to run 200-300 miles in the desert in a couple of days and I don't want to screw up my engine. Thanks

martinfan30

Rman of 237

So what do I switch to? I thought Rotella was for diesels? Do I just go to walmart and pick some up...or is it a special kind?

I just use the dino Rotella 15/40. Its made by Shell. Its not necessarily a turbo diesel oil but it has caught on with the t.d. fleet owners because its such good oil. Remember some of the engines in these trucks are good for 500,000mi so if its good enough for them its good enough for me. Its also cheap($10.00 a gal) and you can get it anywhere. I still change my oil every 6to 8 hundred miles even though the Rotella is most likley good for several thousand miles in a bike not to mention the literal thousands of miles they put on those trucks between oil changes. When I drain the oil out of one of my bikes its usually so clean that I save it in milk jugs and use it in my tractor! I doubt the tractor minds.

Owyhee

I run Mobil 1 (weight varies by season) and change it every three rides in the summer (around 250 miles) and every 10 rides in the winter (about 250 miles).

I ran dino oil for an oil change or two and noticed the oil cooked to a goo and left sludge in the bottom of the engine. After 200 miles or so the oil is full of clutch particles and other badness so I change it even though the oil probably still has some life in it.

I can still get Mobil 1 for $5/qt so two quarts plus a cheapo Emgo (spelling?) is a $13 oil change. Good enough for me.

absynth01

ya i agree. filters are cheap insurance. i would never run a used filter with fresh oil.

maybe he has a reason though?

I agree somewhat. Why I don't change the filter everytime is because last time I changed it on my R, the screens caught most of the clutch particles. The filter looked OK. I assume some contamination did get in the filter. That fine particulate is not usually visible in a filter, but the last few months I was trailering to a camp in central PA. It was easy to do 1000mi an extended weekend, although 600mi was closer. In past posts I had said I can feel 2nd gear just slightly starting to give me problems. I can feel it in my shifter, and felt that in my CR for years. This bike is an unknown to me other than what I was told. It has the full upgrade through the topend(including rod kit), but am pretty sure the tranny wasn't done. It is absolutely the weak point in this L, and am currently researching a 650R tranny swap if possible!!As for the oil changes, once I change that tranny, It will be a scottsstainless filter.

Not saying this is the same thing but....I was working on a large industrial compressor. The oil filters on this unit were original. Know why?? It was a 1952 model with brass/stainless filters, reuseable.

New machines... high speed compressor, canister type, disposable, expensive!!Anything I post is opinion and may not apply to you. Just my 2c in your decision process.

absynth01

I run Mobil 1 (weight varies by season) and change it every three rides in the summer (around 250 miles) and every 10 rides in the winter (about 250 miles).

I ran dino oil for an oil change or two and noticed the oil cooked to a goo and left sludge in the bottom of the engine. After 200 miles or so the oil is full of clutch particles and other badness so I change it even though the oil probably still has some life in it.

I can still get Mobil 1 for $5/qt so two quarts plus a cheapo Emgo (spelling?) is a $13 oil change. Good enough for me.

"O"

You don't get clutch particles under the same conditions using synthetic?? I get them running Synthetic or non. What bike ya ridin??Now for my truck Mobil1 is used. Good stuff.