i thought i read someplace that there was a thread or post about how to repair headlight trim partsi tried to search for it but i didn't find the specific post, i wanted to see how others try to fix original ones

if someone can please point me to the thread about how that's done or an article on that topic i would be appreciative

i tried my hand at it again and i think i did a better job this time, a few more and i might be able to make them look newattached are photos of a stainless rim that i recently picked up from Turner's wrecking yard in Cali, it had some good dents and nasty scratches at where it got wiped against something hard.i used only the tools in the photo with either solid metal backing or leather depending on the specific shape of the required pounding, i don't have a way to roll metal yetnear the end i did some sanding to reveal the high and low spots, then a bit more hammeringfinal sanding is wet 600 - 2000, then some polishing with a buffer, i used some black emery on a sisal wheel, then i went to meguiars compound and polish with a softer wheelfinal polish was with a hard wool felt pad, no compound.i think it came out alright looking, good enough until i get even better.-s

WOW!!!I tried that one time until the buffer caught the sharp back edge and sent me to the emergency room.The repro rings now look absolutely perfect to me. They may not actually be, but my eyes now and forever harbor disdain for buffers.Carl

My reproductions look very nice but were a PITA to actually get them on. I’m not sure if it was something I was doing, but the originals clipped on perfectly in no time. I likely fought with them for the 3-4 hours you have in fixing the “good” ones! Huh...

That looks awesome awesome 2MT! I need to do the same on my 54' 3100 restoration project. I was looking for the same thread you mentioned and was also unable to find it. The tool on the far left looks like what I will need to get the dings out of my bezels. Do you mind telling me what it is or where you found it? It looks like hardened steel with a polished round head.Thanks,SLC

1954 3100 w/Hydra-Matic

"It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop." and "To know what you know and what you do not know, that is true knowledge." - Confucius

thank you everyone for the wonderful support! i feel so motivated to improve even more!

hi SLC, the fancy tool is a valve out of a small gas engine it has been ground into a makeshift punch about 30 years ago, and from abuse has a nice rounded tip and a slightly curved faceso it works well for light hammering from either endthe rod is 1/4 inch plane mild steel used as a drift, it's ends are also rounded lightlythe copper wire is just copper wire, easy to form to match the inside curves to tuck into the rolled edges of the rim

towards the end of shaping i find it works better to transition to hammering on hard steel as the amount of movement and area that needs shaping gets smaller and you need to get to as flat as possible so that the least sanding will be required, many small taps are worth more than one big tap of the hammer, you don't want to stretch the metal, just massage it back to where it came.

two more photos, intermediate sanding to reveal high and low spots, this step is important for me, close up of the repaired area, there are still waves, but a bit of practice goes a long way.-s