oops I left out lies on top of the walls which is what the Box Kite does. it has not leaked uses two hinges with anti skid strip like you would put on a walk way runs across the opening on top and door strip that I found at HD.

My 65-year old trailer has an interesting hatch/body sealing method. There are interlocking U-channels on the hatch and the side walls (hatch fits between) so that there is an overlap between hatch and body channel. The channel attached to the body simply drains the water straight to the ground at the back corners of the galley. The system works very well, I get almost zero water intrusion even when towing the trailer in a rain storm.

There are two down sides to this simple system: 1) it's not dust proof, so at the end of a long day's tow, the galley is full of road grit and dust and has to be wiped down. 2) As I mentioned, the water simply drains out at each rear corner of the galley, right onto the galley carpet and right at my feet when I'm working in the galley. One of my winter projects will be a gutter of some kind to move the water away from the trailer.

mine is inside the side walls, I'm not happy with it at all. I have mental plans to make a foam tail for my TD with the side walls cut flush with the counter top, the rest of the rear profile will be part of the hatch. it may or may not happen this year.

I really needed to check more than one box. The hatch is part of the structure of the rear and the central latch would work itself open bouncing down the road so I added two Perko marine latches, makes for a secure and adjustable setup. Seals are neoprene D seals that sit in and very securely seal the hatch.

Shadow Catcher wrote:I really needed to check more than one box. The hatch is part of the structure of the rear and the central latch would work itself open bouncing down the road so I added two Perko marine latches, makes for a secure and adjustable setup. Seals are neoprene D seals that sit in and very securely seal the hatch.

I've always had a different approach to building a hatch. Instead of building heavy to prevent "Spring Back", Use materials that Don't "Spring Back"

I use FRP and Aluminum.

I build 2 outside rails, 1" thick (by using 2 pieces of 1/2") And cross spars. Then I cover the outside with FRP, good side in extending 1 1/2 past the rails on both sides.

FRP does not "Spring Back" and is strong enough when bowed around the hatch to not flex...as well as being stable enough to Triangulate the hatch.

I also install a second sheet of FRP on the inside, good side in as a finish.

2 sheets is more than enough, then sheath the outside with Aluminum.

I seal the outside edges with this;

I know, I know. But doesn't water get into the sides?

No! I build the sides in 3" at the hatch, and run the outside corner molding straight through. This is a very common area for leaks. The FRP/Aluminum extends 1 1/2" past the galley opening and I put a second outside insert molding on the inside of the galley.

This insert molding is 3/8" tall with a vinyl insert that acts as the hatch's seal. Plus I extend the offset Hurricane hinge past the galley opening.

For the water to get in it has to run down, make a right or left hand turn, run up hill and jump over a 3/8" tall molding that is under the FRP/Aluminum.

In addition the 2 outside corner insert moldings create a good Trough for the water to run down there by directing the water out and off the trailer.

Plus I extend the offset Hurricane hinge past the galley opening.

These shots are from 3 different trailers of mine, but the theory is still the same.

Happy Trails

Len

Last edited by len19070 on Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

"Conditions are never just right. People who delay action until all factors are favorable do nothing". William FeatherDon't accept "It's Good Enough" build to the best of your abilities.Teardroppers Of Oregon & Washington