Red Sea Max 250 Build Guide

The RSM 250 Build guide is for general reference. The advantage of DIY is you can tailor the build by adding or subtracting LEDs to suit your taste. The Kit was designed to use existing fans. Adding and or upgrading fans is recommended as the cooler the LEDs are the brighter and longer lasting they are. The pictures in this guide are primarily for the APEX or manual Drivers. The Storm Controlled Kit will feature instructions at the end.

Start by opening up your hood and remove everything. Please use a zip lock bag to keep all your hardware.

Fit the mounting plates and heatsink to ensure proper fit. Some minor trimming or drilling may be necessary as Red Sea may over the years changed the inside design.

Once you test the fit the heatsink, arrange the White LEDs evenly on the Heatsink. The Regular Kit includes 6 Cree XM-L Cool White the RSM Storm includes 12 Cree XT-E Cool White. These will be wired + to –

Apply a little thermal paste to the back of the LED. This fills the micro gaps in the metal and allows for improved thermal transfer.

Inspect the BJB solderless connector. Ensure the contact points are not pushed in.

Place the BJB Solderless Connector over the LED. Ensure the + contact is over the + solder pad. Hand tighten the 4-40 allen head screw. Do not over tighten as this may damage the connector. The connector is properly tightened when there is no movement when you hand twist the connector.

Once the connector is on, it’s best to test the connector with a Volt/Ohm Meter. Simply place the setting on the diode and touch the + contact point with the + Meter Prob and the – contact to the negative Meter Prob. This will cause a small current through the LEDs and cause it to light up. Your Prob Leads may be a bit thick to contact the BJB Test points. We simply used old fashion American Ingenuity and wrapped & secured a paper clip which allowed for a finer contact. For more information on BJB LED Testing click this youtube link BJB LED TESTING.

Now you can strip your 20ga wire with 1/4″ ends. Simply slid the wire into the BJB connector then pull to ensure it has a secure lock. A loose wire can cause the driver to surge and damage the LED.

Connect the + to – then + ect. Use the Red wire to note the + end of the LED string and the Black Wire to note the – end of the LED string.

Once you have your first string of LEDs connected, its a good idea to connect them to the driver to ensure everything is working. Simply take the Red wire from the Hyperon/Inventronics Driver and connect it to the + end of the LED String and connect the Black LED Wire to the – end of the LED string. The White Driver Wire is the ACN (AC Big Prong), the AC Black Driver Wire is the ACL (AC Small Prong). Then Plug in your driver. (Caution LEDs are bright please do not look directly at them or wear sunglasses when testing)

After your first string is tested wire the second string. Test it, then do the same for the subsequent strings.

The LED placement is science, art and personal preference. As long as the LEDs are evenly mixed you will not have any spotlighting.

If you want to use advanced Colour Rendering techniques you want to place the Red, Green and Blue LEDs in groups of three. This allows you to use the Technicolor Principal to mix these three LEDs. My varying the intensity you can achieve any colour visible to the human eye.

Our Basic Kits do not offer significant amounts of RGB LEDs but there is plenty of room on the heatsink for them. Our Basic Kits maximize growth while looking good. Depending on personal preference and level of lighting control one desires, incorporating the RGB clusters is optional and very nice for simulating different sunrises and sunsets.

Once your LEDs are laid out, use the spacers and mount the brackets to the heatsink. The spacers are to raise the fixture slightly enhancing spread.