i'm looking at getting a new belay device as my trusty ole figure8 just aint cutting it any longer. sure i know there are these fancy auto devices out there, but somehow i guess i prefer the age old trusted manual method more.

right now mainly for sport and top rope. ultimatley i'd like to hit the trad routes, but right now i wanna practise good technique etc first and when i can comfortably climb a decent grade on a sport route i'll take the next plunge and accquire a trad rack.

The new Petzl Reverso is almost an exact copy of the guide!?!?
Just goes to show BD got it right the first time

One thing I would like to crit about the Petzel 1...
The big ring used to hang the device in an auto block config; looks alot smaller. I really like the Guides big loop as it passes very easily over the screwing mechanics that surrounds the gate on screw up biners. Even the fat twist lock I use for my belaying is not a problem. It would seem to me as though Petzl just tried to make there device the same as the Guide but only lighter.

I know of a few people that rave about the Tre... I have never used one myself. Aparantly you never have to unclip it while threading the ropes, thereby reducing the risk of ever dropping it. The down side for me is that is has moving parts...

I have been using a tre for sport and trad for about 3 years now and in my opinion it is one of the safest belay devices around (once you know how to use it). It works well or bolting as well. I use 2 x Beal Cobras for trad (8.6mm I think) and a Roca 10.5mm for sport and the device handles both ropes well. I have experienced the twisting referred to above once, but with somebody elses rope. That said I think the tre really shines for trad.

All belay devices have pros and cons. By far the best device is the one that you have the most experience with and I can talk with absolute authority on this. After 30 years of climbing and catching hundreds of falls mostly using a sticht plate or ATC I have the un-enviable reputation of dropping a climber using the ATC XP and then using the Trango Cinch. Both devices were new ot me and there is nothing wrong with either if you are familiar and experienced in using them.

I have converted to using the Tre (with the Bugette as back up )and a careful review of their attributes show their advantages compared to other devices whetehr for sport, trad or guiding as you really only want to use one device. Both devices rely on added friction with tension and the Tre does lock like a Grigri. The big advantage is that the feeding hand is always on the breaking side of the device and the Tre locking system does not require being held open.