I have an '02 F150 4x4 5.4L Automatic 160K miles. I was driving the other night at around 50 - 55 mph and 1500 RPMs and gave it a little gas and got this jerking/shaking. The other way I could describe would be that it is similar to when I'm on my 4 wheeler and I'm in a high gear and going too slow and try to speed up and it starts shaking or jerking. It is has no problems going through gears and I checked the fluid which was right between being ok and needing some fluid so I added a little with no change. The engine seems to be running fine and it doesn't seem like a miss that I have had in me previous trucks. And like I said before, it goes through gears fine and doesnt seem like transmissions problems I have had in previous trucks.

This problem didn't start slowly. It wasn't doing this at all and the next trip, it did it with multiple shakes in a row. It will also give one "shake" occasionally at slower speeds but multiple "shakes" between 50 and 55 at lower RPMs. Thanks a bunch in advance.

Take it to a shop and get that code checked and if that comes up with nothing ask for them to test drive it. Most mechanics would know what was going on from a test drive if the code doesn't produce anything

Without driving it is hard to tell, butt feel means alot! Codes p300 thru p308 indicate a misfire and will probably lead to plugs and/or wires. Ford had terrible plug wires from 1995 on in the 4.6/5.4 etc. Typically on the 02 f150 the last cylinder on the passenger side #4 was prone to filling up with coolant from the heater hose outlet directly above it, Fixed many with a new wire and plug and tighten the heater hose clamp. Also, a slipping torque converter clutch can feel about the same. Trans fluid breaking down used to cause this back in the day. A code will probably be present for this. If iwas guessing I would be looking at a spark plug/wire. Be carefull taking out the plugs! Some of the old Fords were bad about bringing the threads out with the plug! Good Luck from a retired Ford Tech

P1405 refers to the DPFE sensor. This measures the amount of EGR Flow. The hoses going to the sensor are prone to cracking and are usually the problem. Find the hoses examine very carefully. If cracked replace with hose made specifically for that, fuel line hose will work but it won't last long. The other part is the DPFE sensor itself which can be tested with a scanner and vacuum pump to operate the EGR Valve. This may or may not be your initial concern I bet you still need to look at plugs/wires. Good Luck Hope its the hoses.

I ended up googling that code and then looked under the hood and found about 3 inches of that hose that appeared to be burnt off at the sensor. The sensor was a little heat damaged too where the hose connects so that makes me think the whole sensor is bad. I replaced the hose with fuel line as a temporary fix and it seems to have cut out the bad jerking but it still isn't running as smooth as it should and as smooth as it was a week ago. Could the DPFE sensor be the root of all of this or do you think it is a combination of DPFE sensor and/or plugs and wires?

mydogearl wrote:I ended up googling that code and then looked under the hood and found about 3 inches of that hose that appeared to be burnt off at the sensor. The sensor was a little heat damaged too where the hose connects so that makes me think the whole sensor is bad. I replaced the hose with fuel line as a temporary fix and it seems to have cut out the bad jerking but it still isn't running as smooth as it should and as smooth as it was a week ago. Could the DPFE sensor be the root of all of this or do you think it is a combination of DPFE sensor and/or plugs and wires?

part of it, you can test the sensor, but if you have over 60,000 miles best bet is to replace it, or if you see corrision on the pipes where the hoses hook into it. after this you might have misfire codes show up, for what reason i do not know. and it will be time to change plugs and plug wires, trust me replace both at the same time. also check your pcv tube and elbow, these are bad for getting brittle and you loose vaccum there. i do not have the book here for the ohm test on dpfe , but you can go to ford trucks.com and get all the info you need, hope this helps.

the more i have read on the internet here, I am afraid I have an exhaust blockage, probably a failed catalytic converter, that has caused the dpfe sensor to heat up and fail. but i have some more investigating to do.

btw, i took it for a short drive today and it ran the worst yet. had no power and couldn't really get up to speed.

are you by chance running an aftermarket air filter, like a kn? buy a manual and do some checks most are really simple. the egr maybe bad, it easly tested,would not think the cat conv. i have 314,000 on mine and it is still good. it can be an intake leak, but i would rule out vaccum leaks first. run a vaccum test on it if it is 17 and above you are good,

same thing happened to my moms '99 5.4l expetdion on our way back from a ski trip in KC MO and it got worse and worse, turns out it was a bad spark plug, 2nd time that POS went to the shop in 3monthes!

so id say your problem is, its a ford.

oh how i love picking her up from the ford dealership in my Chevy!

NRA and DU member, are you? if not you should be!

rabbitdundied wrote: I use my mojos in places I don't want birds to land.

I had a similar problem going up a long hill at about 55-60 felt like a brief lag on the tranny. I took the plugs out an they were off white even at 20k and they were iridiums. ( the right color) the fine tip doesn't wear much but the center electrode tip is of nickel and the heat causes it to open the gap after 20k especially NGK.Check the gap it maybe open by as much as 4/1000. I switched over to a simple platinum NGK and gapped it about 1 1/2 /1000 to compensate and give me lower end quicker now enables me to get up the long hill at 60. Also my check engine light does not come on as on top of the intake manifold on some engines isan ion sensor that checks the right resistance of the plugs in this case the motor called for NGK platinum and it did not read the iridiums right causing the check engine light to come on along with some load pinging.Also it could be a plugged EGR valve..some can be cleaned ..carboned up

I had a trans-am with only 60,000 miles on it when it strted doing the same thing. Gave me a code that the emissions needed serviced. It ended up being the cat was plugged up even though i only used premium fuel in it. But I did run this car hard most of the time. I also had a 98 Silverado that has a clogged fuel filter and blew an emissions code. It would just surge over about 50 and felt like it was missing even at idle.

Hope you got it all straightened out, Let us know what you ended up finding.

im driving a 99 exlporer 4.0 same code came up on mine. When looking at the hoses you said they are burnt? i fixed mine by replacing the EGR solenoid that sits on those hoses if it is the same set up as mine. the solenoid will cost you right around 40 bucks and all it is is 2 screws no gaskets or anything needed let me know how it works for you.