Also, if you live at Colfax and Perry, you are smack dab in the middle of the Central Breakfast Club part of town. We meet every other Friday at Javier and C's (38th and Tennyson) at 7:30 am. You should join us next week, as this is our off week. Here's the thread: http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/foru...ad.php?t=10380

There are a couple of 40 owners in our midst and a couple other really knowledgeable guys.

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2013 4 Door Tacoma (locked, lifted and loaded with essential accoutrements for adventure)
FWC on it's back as often as possible
TLCA#11073

The reason I mentioned CarQuest's rebuild kit is that they had one in stock for my '78 FJ40, and it had the secondary diaphram, which has been discontinued by Toyota. That part alone was $30 some years back. You can certainly patronize a real 'cruiser shop for your parts, too.

Most carb kits have an exploded diagram with parts in a numbered order, and tell you to take it apart in the order shown. If you have a clean work surface and good lighting and some bins (yogurt cups), most carb rebuilds aren't too tough. I wouldn't start with a Rochester Quadrajet, however. Ideally, you'd rebuild a tractor carb first and move up to a 1 bbl Jeep carb, and so on. Don't take apart any carb more than you have to - some parts can be effectively cleaned and inspected without taking them fully apart. It's a judgement call, there.

Check out the exploded diagrams on the SOR website, too, for pix of the manifolds, etc.

Get a serious 2F-head to look it over and do some diagnosis, as it's a bit silly to redo the carb and install it on a leaky manifold. A compression test is in order, too, so that if by chance the whole engine or head is basically shot, you know that up front.

If you go to the TECH LINKS page of the 40 series section on IH8MUD, in the engine link area there are some links to carb tech that should prove useful. I'm pretty sure that's where I got some tips when I did mine the first time. If you're going to be doing any repairs, I would suggest that you at least get a Haynes manual if not a Factory Service manual. IIRC the Haynes manual hit the carb adjustment pretty well head-on.

So, I checked the vacuum using the "cardboard over the carb while its running" method and the idle went up before the engine died. I looked around a little and saw this on the drivers side inner fender.

It looks like a missing tube and a broken off nipple with a tube on it (circled in red)

When I put my finger over the two holes and try the cardboard method it just dies. What is that little gray plastic thing?

EDIT!!! I found a tube coming out from under the carb that goes to the gray thing. I plugged it in and it idles much better.

Here is a new pic from under the hood.

Lastly, the engine is missing one of the belts. It goes to what looks like a compressor (AC?) and another thing under the compressor. I cant turn the pulley by hand, what it is and do I need to connect/replace it?

Looks like it is the VCV (Vacuum Control Valve), from the Haynes manual. i would try to get the broken nipple out of the hose and connect the two together.

Thanks, I found a tube coming from the carb that goes on the empty nipple. the broken off nipple is in the tube that is draped over the VCV. Would it be best to replace the VCV since it has a broken nipple?

The last photo looks like the air pump. It looks like someone has mounted an old AC compressor under the hood. You really don't need the air pump. I would let someone familar with that year to see what is missing or by passed. Get a haynes manual and trace all the vacum lines and make sure none are cracked or disconnected without being plugged. Then give it a good tune with Toyota parts. And make sure you adjust the vavles.