First taste of Block 7 Wine Company

I think I’m going to like Block 7 Wine Company. The new venture, located in a smartly rehabbed appliance store on Shepherd just south of the Washington strip, combines retail wine sales with a wine bar that also functions as a restaurant. There’s a short, well-edited menu that will soon be expanded but which already looks and tastes promising.

The place looks smashing: airy and crisp and cool, all gunmetal greys and silvers, with black notes for ballast, a shimmer of glassware and a few bright pops of color. Cooler still–literally– is the wine storage and display room, where a personal, manageable selection waits at cellar temperatures. That’s impressive. Just walking into that glassed-in section during a Houston August is a treat for which the owners could probably charge admission.

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Alison Cook

A glass of Chinon at Block 7 Wine Co.

I admired the vintage store fittings salvaged from the original appliance business and repurposed as a check-out desk, as well as the reasonable by-the-bottle prices and the distinct personality of the list, which does not try to be all things to all people. I was excited to see three examples of Ribera del Duero (a favorite Spanish red of mine) at three different price points: entry-level, medium and premium. Same deal with three Malbecs, none of which I had tried.

Over in the sparkler section, I checked out theLouis de Grenelle Brut Rose I had tried–and liked–at Restaurant RDG recently. It was priced at $21.99, or by the case at $18.99. Not bad. Depending on my financial situation, I could have picked up a nice little Muscadet for a song, or a big-deal Burgundy for a lot. Staff was both welcoming and helpful.

From them, I discovered the great not-really-a-secret here: if you spot a wine you’re curious about, they’ll open the bottle in the bar and sell you a glass, whether it’s on their official by-the-glass list or not, with just a one-glass commitment. And if you decide you like the wine enough, you can just purchase the entire bottle with no corkage fee whatsoever.

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Alison Cook

Croque Monsieur at Block 7 Wine Co.

At these bottle prices, that’s as good as it gets in this town. Far better than Block 7’s steepish by-the-glass prices, which inch toward half (!) the bottle’s retail value. At least the pours are not skimpy, and they let you taste before you commit to a glass from a previously opened bottle.

There’s some fun stuff to be sampled. A Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner, a fresh and aromatic Austrian white for $8.50 a glass, had a nice acid bounce and a faint green prickle on both the nose and the palate. Swell for a Houston summer.

Also interesting (and seldom seen on Houston lists): an atypically big red Chinon from the Loire, with tons of glycerine and a translucent wash of bronze rimming its garnet hue. Its spicy, cooked red and black fruit flavors worked well with a simple Croque Monsieur sandwich of raclette cheese and ham on brioche, with a little bechamel to smooth the way.

Okay, so this sandwich had twice the ham and cheese that it needed to be its best. I know, I know. Perceived value and all that. But it’s such an American (or is it more Texan?) trait to double up on ingredients, even if that throws off the balance of flavors. I ended up fishing out one layer of sliced ham, scraping off the extra layer of melted cheese, and being quite, quite pleased with the results.

I think I’ll be eating the Croque Monsieur again here. And I bet I’ll be scraping off the extra ham and cheese again, too.

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Alison Cook

Local art by Matt Messinger from Spacetaker, Block 7 Wine Co.

An arugula salad with charred corn off the cob and charred cherry tomatoes was absolutely perfect, right down to its gentle roasted shallot vinaigrette that stayed out of the wine’s way. I can see myself eating that again, too.

The menu quotes Alice Waters on the importance of good ingredients, and the kitchen appears to be taking its mission seriously. I’ll be back to try out the variously topped flatbreads, the dry-aged beef burgers and the marrow-buttered buffalo hanger steak. Maybe the housemade pappardelle with braised rabbit and shiitakes. Or even the inevitable hamachi sashimi, here cured with coriander and seasoned with preserved lemon, celery leaves and pink peppercorn vinaigrette. I like the sounds of that, since I think celery leaves are the best part of the plant.

From my window table, I could see Soma, the Japanese fusion and sushi spot on Washington at Shepherd, and I trembled to think of the ravening scenesters that might soon invade my little idyll.

In the meantime, as late afternoon turned into early evening, I had a peaceful view of a couple of blooming cenizo bushes in front of Vogler Sheet Metal, “Since 1904.” I had a feeling it wouldn’t stay peaceful for long.

17 Responses

I enjoyed my time there as well. Its a great looking place both inside and out. I agree with you, the no corkage fee is a great thing, although I too wish that the by the glass was cheaper (half the bottle is over the top).

As I noted in my blog the beer selection is rather impressive as well, esp for a “wine” place.

Great review. I’m a huge fan for multiple reasons, but the combination of atmosphere, menu and wine selection are untouched. My only regret is that I dont live closer. Block 7 would easily be a nightly spot for me. This review has me dreaming of their Sloppy Joe.

Oh and I’ve already remedied the by glass question, I just buy by the bottle. Simple economics.

We were advised by our bartender that for the cost of two glasses we could have the bottle. This doesn’t provide any leeway for trying multiple wines, unless you want to go home with several open bottles – possible & legal, but not practical.

Are all the tables/chairs bar stool height, as it appears in the photo? Because that’s a major turn off for me and other short-legged folks. I avoid those chairs at all costs. Seems silly, I know, but when you are trying to relax and be comfortable …

Great review Alison. It’s also one of my favorite spots at the moment – and my go-to place to buy a retail bottle of wine. Next time snack on the truffle popcorn while you’re waiting on your meal – AMAZING.

Just to clarify a bit about the B7 glass pricing. The prices per glass only appear on first glance to be pricey because they are sitting on a wine list next to low price retail bottles. For example, a $19.99 bottle of wine at B7 usually carries an $8-$9 glass price. That same wine at most similarly themed establishments in Houston would be at least $39 a bottle and more often than not closer to $60. At any other wine serving entity in Houston a $39-60 wine would be at least $10-15+ per glass, not the $9 offered at B7.

In essence, the B7 glass price per wine is still very likely the lowest price for a 1/4 bottle pour in the city of Houston; and while the disparity between glass and bottle may offer sticker shock on 1st glance, the ability to open any bottle in the house with only a single glass commitment and the fact that a $9 glass at B7 buys the consumer much more wine (in terms of quality) than the average $9 glass in H town then I believe the B7 concept is still the low price leader in on premise wine consumption in Houston.

Bottle for Bottle I believe B7 would be glad to take the Pepsi challenge on price with anyone in the state

You may well be right in your assessment of the value offered, but something about the math bothers me.

If they are happy to sell (and presumably allow you to drink in thier establishment) a bottle for 19.99, then why should purchasing a 1/4 of that bottle cost $9?

The markup on wine in restuants has always seemed a bit rapacious to me. In my experience here in town it averages about 4X retail on mainstream stuff and much worse on more sophisticated vintages. And many a time I have paid more for a glass than a bottle would retail for.

pantryboss beat me to remark on the wonderful photos we’ve been enjoying in your blog. Have always thought they were well done and added a lot but they have been so good lately. The lighting is captured so well. The croque just glistens. You just do such a beautiful job, Alison.

I certainly agree with you about restaurant markup in general. In the case of glass prices, and especially a joint where they let you order any glass for a single glass commitment; I am confident they are likley losing 25% or more on unsold glasses that go unsold in the course of the evening, and I know for a fact these guys are not pouring wine by the glass that does not make the grade after being open.

If these guys were to charge $4 or $5 a glass for a $19.99 wine that likely cost them near $14 a bottle then the potential loss could be grave and then our new wine oasis would founder.

At the end of the day all equations point to B7 being a real value. I just drank a San Vicente Rioja last night for $39.99 a bottle that I had bought at Specs last week for $52…no kidding.

As you explain it, thier system will make it more likely to sell whole bottles of the lower priced (and prob more broadly popular) wines and let people experiment and grow to appriciate the more expensive and sophisticated wines by thier one glass any bottle commitment. Now that I think about it, I dont think I have ever seen such an offer in any establishment.

It may be a bit of a gamble on high end stuff, but I’ll bet it pays off over time. Shows inovation, management of risk AND cojones.

Enough. All this analysis is making me thirsty. I’ll be the big guy in the corner, avoiding beets.

Now you have done it. I am SO there and hope I can enjoy before the crowds find this place and before everyone else discovers Ribera’s or Chinon. My extended family in Spain love these wines and shared them with us. Now, if they will add Serrano, olive oil and crushed tomato to some crusty bread, I could just grab a jacket and move in.