2010 VW Golf

Comments

Dudley, that is true... but the key workds are "cruise" and "level ground". If you are putting a load on the engine, then you put an unnecessary stress on the turbo when you drive at low RPM in one of the higher gears. If you are climbing hills, just because your TDI can make it all the way to the top at 2000 RPM in 6th, while every else is slowing down or downshifting, does not mean you should drive that way.

The engine computer will put your TDI engine into "limp mode" if you try to do something that will damage the turbo. This is more likely to happen if you stomp on the accelerator at 1500-1800 RPM in a high gear, or try to accelerate briskly if your engine is already under a heavy load at low RPM.

In case of "limp mode", you have to do an engine restart. I have done this a couple times over the years by just pushing in the clutch and doing a quick restart; but of course it is much safer to pull off the road first.

The advice I give here applies for the life of the car. During the break-in period, the driver should not be babying the engine or at least not babying it all the time.

As the previous owner of a number of VWs I was contemplating the purchase of the new clean TDI until I found out that VW is clinging to the rubber cam belt set up for the TDI. I had presumed that all of their engines now used chain driven cams as does the 2.5 but the TDI continues with the rubber belts, a cost saving measure. You pay more up front for the TDI and then will have a thousand dollar maintence bill to replace the belts somewhere between 40 and 80K miles. I will wait for the gasoline Polo to appear to evaluate.

Interesting and in 80K miles you'd save about 1000 gallons of gasoline with the TDI over the 2.5. Between the price difference and the extra maintenance cost, it is probably pretty close to a wash between the two assuming that the other extra standard features on the TDI are worth, say, $2000.

An engine-designer needs to consider a large number of variables when developing a new design. Sure, one of them may be cost... but that is often near the bottom of the list.

A belt-driven cam has a lot of advantages over chain.*)Less Weight*)no lubrication required*) Power-pulses of diesel engine can tear a chain up pretty quick while belt is more forgiving.*)Belt replacement is 100,000 miles on my TDI...not a big deal.

A chain DOES wear out and WILL need to be replaced at some point. With the beating from a diesel-engine, it may be LESS than 100,000 miles. (even gear-driven may not stand up to the beating.)

Why do you think that Harley Davenson motorcycles use BELT DRIVE to rear wheel instaead of chain?... because the belt lasts longer than chain with a big , pulsing, engine. (the belt soaks up the pulses...a chain would break prematurley)

If the presense of a belt-driven cam is the ONLY reason you are staying away... then I feel your reasoning is flawed.

Let me ask you these things....Are you aware that the pully on the TDI alternator is specially designed specifically because the diesel engine can decellerate faster than the alternator rotor?

Are you aware that the teeth on the clean-diesel timing-belt pullies have variable-spacing specifically to compensate for the power-pulses from the crankshaft?

Bottom line... you are making a mistake when you second-guess the German engineers who designed the engine. (they know what they are doing)

Since the 2002 model year, all TDIs have had either an 80k-mile or 100k-mile timing belt replacement interval. As for the cost of replacement, there are TDI experts in most states who will do the work for well under $1000, and this includes replacing not just the TB and tensioner but also the roller/idlers, the water pump, the serpentine belt, and any of the various torque-to-yield bolts which should not be replaced. Typically, if you have this job done at a VW dealership, it will cost MORE than $1000 and the only new parts you get are the TB and tensioner, and MAYBE the water pump.

So visit www.tdiclub.com and check out the "recommended TDI mechanics" sticky thread for a TDI expert near your location. Then ask for a review of the nearby mechanics from club members who have used their services. VW dealerships should be avoided after the warranty period -- this is not just my opinion, despite the efforts of Stefan Jacoby (the president of VWoA) the dealership service departments still suck.

I meant to say that the torque-to-yield bolts which should ALWAYS be replaced. But VW dealerships never do, most do not even stock those special bolts. If they are reused, if they are torqued incorrectly, the bolts can break and the engine can come loose from the engine mount on the passenger-side end. It has happened lots of times. Sometimes the bolt rips out of the engine block and the block itself cannot be repaired but must be replaced. Lots of expensive damage that can be prevented by replacing these $2 bolts every 100k miles.

It may be that the timing belt on the TDI is a perfectly reasonable design, but I do not buy the arguments that it is superior to a properly designed chain drive system. I would guess that there are diesel engines that do have a chain and that the chain typically never requires replacement.

Timing belts are superior when precise timing is required, because they do not stretch as they age. As the links in a chain wear, the chain becomes more "sloppy". Usually an expert mechanic can warn the owner when a chain needs to be replaced, but if a chain fails there is even more damage than when a belt fails. I had a timing chain fail in a Saab 2-liter gas engine once and it threw a chunk of metal through the valve cover. I should have just replaced the engine, it would have cost about as much as the repairs.

Chains and gear-driven valve-timing systems tend to be found in the more-expensive engines -- not only because they are more expensive to design and manufacture, but because they are more expensive to maintain. The typical middle-class driver cannot afford to buy or maintain the high-priced cars with chain-driven timing systems. That does not mean timing belts are an inferior solution to the problem, however, Porsche timing belt

Does anyone know if the you can purchase the Golf TDI with the GTI's leather seats? I love these seats (friend has them on his GTI) and they're 10 way adjustable instead of 8.

I've got short legs and need to lower the seat more than I currently can in the Golf. the adjustability of the GTI autobahn seats really work for me and are about the most comfortable seats I've ever driven in.

you guys are lucky in CA. I've been paying attention to ulsd prices in my town and they are usually at least $.20 more than 93. And I don't drive cars that requires premium. Oil companies playing games again......

I'm in search of a reliable hatchback. I've never owned a Volkswagen and was wondering if you all could please post your experience if it has been a good car or in the garage for repairs and how well it handles in the snow. I live where we get a lot of snow and use snow tires on my Subaru. I haven't driven a front wheel drive in 15 years. I'm looking at the 2010 Golf base model automatic. How is the gas mileage, have you gotten better than the posted mpg? Thank you.

Good question. Probably nothing major, possibly something that was an option is now standard equipment, or maybe vice-versa but that typically doesn't happen.

But I remember when the Mk5 Jetta came out, halfway through the 2005 model year, and was designated as the 2005.5 Jetta. The TDI version had lots of extra features which were then made extra-cost options on the 2006 model. So there are some 2005.5's with a particular trim level that are highly sought-after, by those who pay attention to the minutiae.

A few points, Chen. First, this is an after-market product which will fit in the dash of a VW Golf... but you would probably have to remove something else, like maybe the AM-FM-CD player.

Second, the screen size is pretty small for DVD playback, so I don't think this is a very useful feature.

Third, if you buy a Garmin or some other GPS navigation system, you can upgrade easily without tearing into your dashboard again. The product you've linked to could, conceivably, reduce the resale value of your car if it cannot be easily updated with new street and road information. And of course depending on how professionally it is mounted and what has to be removed to make room for it.

I initially wanted the 2010 golf 2.5 and think I could be happy with it but it does not come with a 6 cd changer or navigation options. I spend a lot of time in my car so music is important to me. (I do not want the tdi because I don't want diesel). I am also considering the gti. I love the power behind the turbo but I am a little concerned about the price/value, the maintanence and reliability. Any thoughts or suggestions from anyone??

Given that HPFP failures are common in the VA's Andalusia BMW's how can one run them "forever" . VW always claims. Contaminated fuel with these fuel system failures so warranty doesn't cover. Owner out 6,000-8,000Dollars own $$$.The failures are wide spread.

The 2011 Golf is just as good. On the other hand, the new 2011 Jettas have been "decontented" -- the MSRP has been cut by cheapening the suspension and the brake system. The Jetta now returns to the torsion beam rear suspension, same as it had until 2005, and the base models now have rear drum brakes.

So if a fully independent suspension is important to you, and four-wheel disk brakes, then go with one of the Golf models.

To me the most ridiculous aspect of the 2011 Jetta is bringing back the 2.0, 8 valve 115 HP engine in order to advertise a lower price for the base model. What a joke, my kid has essentially that same engine in his 1996 Jetta.

Even if the other aspects turned out to be okay with me, there would still be no acceptable Jetta for me, were I in the market. I am not about to buy the 2.slow in a (I assume) ~3000 pound car. But going to the higher trim levels would mean having vinyl foisted on me, I don't happen to like vinyl/"leatherette" (or leather).

Oh, the Jetta sportwagen might be an option, as that is unchanged from the 2010 model, I think.

You are mistaken about the 1996... it goes back a LOT further than that. That 2.0L 8-valve can be traced back to the ORIGINAL watercooled VW rabbitt in 1974. (Same engine-block with larger displacement)

I have a different view.... That old engine-design is PROVEN over many millions of miles. Why do you think of it as a *bad* thing?

VW has always offerd several engine options... if you do not like the 2.0L ... chose something else.