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I'm surprised the throttle doesn't have a way to calibrate for this kind of situation. With a magnetic hall sensor as the mechanism for reading trigger position, it should be able to configure the fully pulled position as 100% throttle, not make you move the stop point. What happens if you move it too far, or not enough? Surely there's a way to tell the controller where top and bottom are.

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All I know is that after I discovered that the trigger stop for full throttle was about 1/16" short of its furthest forward position and I moved it as far as it would go I was delivering the same voltage to the lane as with another controller. Later driving the car in the race I was getting the same performance as I had a week earlier with my difalco. Problem solved.

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I think maybe I have discovered the component that fried when I crossed the black and the white leads. It turns out to be a transistor that costs about $1.50. There are two on the board so I will replace both of then. What have I got to lose for $3.00.

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I was unable to get the WAM working using the transistors I bought. I have a friend who is an electronics expert coming down from up north in October and I will have him take a go at it. In the meantime I procured a new WAM from one of the members here and it is working fine.