paint issues with pictures.

here is some pics of a '36 buick we straightened out for a customer. fellow was in his late '70's or early 80's and attempted to do some paint work, got in over his head and gave up.car had old school nitro cellulose lacquer on it, the he shot some centari on it, then lacquer primer (red oxide) and some type of surfacer. we painted everything but the 4 doors. he did not want them painted, said they were fine. lot of block sanding, and several sealers to prevent lifting. what a mess, but the car came out ok. has diamont base/dc92 clear. here are a couple pics of as we got the car.

I thought I saw that car today about 2 miles from my house!!! It was on a trailer being pulled by a smaller SUV (Explorer type). I am pretty sure it wasn't though because that one has Illinois plates and this one had vintage rear plates on it. Other than that I could have swore it was this car!

the color is correct, however the old nitro lacquer has seen better days. we did a quick buff on the doors and finished with liquid ebony to get a little depth to them. its not bad, the customer is very happy with it. for about 1g, we could have done the doors and got the car perfect, but he did not want to put the extra money in it. personally, i'm not happy with it, but you have to do what the customer wants. if it was another color, we can do spray out cards with our variance formulas and tint as necessary to get the proper color. single stage and base clears are pretty easy to match, the tri color pearls get tricky, as the pearl coats can throw you under the bus after you get the base color right. even gun pressure affects the final color in a tri coat. some times you can fool around for half a day tinting tri coats to get them right.

This is getting off subject, but I backed my 2005 tan GMC into a post and scratched the lower "quarter" panel directly behind the rear wheel. Body shop repaired it and since there was no break they could mask off, he clear coated the whole side of the pickup bed. They were not supposed to add a color coat, at least the guy didn't mention it. The side is a slightly lighter color than the rest. Assuming he did not put on any base, would sanding the old clear (metallic base) cause the finish to be lighter? I insisted that there be no swirl marks, there isn't and otherwise the job is perfect.

A 2005 would have clear from factory. If he did it correctly he would scuff the whole 1/4 / box side and spot blend the base each way and then clear the whole panel. There should be NO color match problem if done this way. If he based all the way to the next panel he is an idiot. Will never work. If he did it correctly and still has a mis-match then there's a possibility that he didn't have a "dedicated gun" for his clear and the clear cote was diluted even slightly with some flake residue from not cleaning the gun perfectly after base then it could possibly lighten or make the panel sparkle differently all the way to the break point. I assume you or he buffed/polished the ajoining panels to brighten it to meet the shine of the new paint? Are you 100% sure that it wasn't always this way? Did you buy it new? We all know of the factory mis-matches.Some parts are painted seperately and at different times and in the case of plastic facias etc, withn a different paint and procedure all together. Corvette facia,s never matched the body in metalics.

I bought it new, it matched. It really doesn't look too bad and is hard to notice unless outside with the light shining directly on it. Past experience tells me to leave it alone. I had a 86 Olds Cutlass that had a factory defect. The person that the dealer hired could not get it right, so I had him paint the whole side, could see the color change as he tried to blend it into the trunk, etc. As to the pickup, I had a similar repair a 92 GMC when some unknown person hit it just above the bumper. He cleared the whole side, paint matched but swirls all over the place. Neither truck was blended into the cab. My wife got spun 180 degrees in our 2002 Grand Cherokee by some idiot, damaged the rear door and quarter panel. The paint was blended into the front door and matched but a lot of swirl marks. In the current case I would rather have the different color than the swirl marks. I have thought about cleaning and waxing the side of the cab. I don't think it will do that much good since the vehicle is inside 99% of the time, and the base clear paint is so good that it does not fade enough to need waxing. Certainly not like the vehicles before base clear was used. (I had an 81 Monte Carlo with clear over lacquer, worst paint I have ever seen). I have about a mile of dirt road when I go to town, and wax is the worlds best dust collector. I might still try it, but I bet it doesn't do much--perhaps the front has faded to a darker color?? thanks for the info.

any idea what clear they used? its possible they did not put enough clear on and its too transparent. as far as the swirl marks, either they used too rough a pad for the final buffing, or didnt buff it enough. it should not have swirlmarks.

On the 2005 GMC he said they used PPG Concept, I assume the clear was that too. I had to ask him if he used Concept, when he had trouble remembering which PPG product he used. Only red flag I got from him before he did the work. On the 2002 Grand Cherokee BASF was used, don't know about the 1992 GMC. As you and B Maniac know, a body shop is only as good as the employees.

we used ppg concept years ago before we switched to diamont. concept clear would darken the panels, ppg rep said it was because they used more uv inhibitors. also, concept would almost never match mixing the formula, it would have to be tinted. i suspect the base coat was shot down the bedside and the painter didnt tint, hoping the break off at the cab corner would hide the mis match. 2001 was probably the clear they shot.

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