Yolanda’s cities: Where to stay, eat and party in Cork city

Nursing a sore head from the indulgences of the night before, we sat silently tucking into our food at The Bodega in Cork. It was jazz festival weekend and my friends and I had spent the previous evening tearing up the dance floor at The Metropole. We hadn’t wanted to go our for brunch but we woke up with that bottomless hangover-hunger feeling that forced us out the door. Having polished off our omelettes, fries, burgers and wings, we were looking make a swift exit and return to bed when we heard a voice sing out.

The band had been setting up behind us for quite some time but we hadn’t noticed with all our scoffing. When Niall McCabe opened his mouth and let out the first lines of ‘Change Is Gonna Come’ we sat transfixed. As his soulful, earthy voice filled the room, we ordered a round of brunch cocktails and got settled in for the day.

That was a few years ago now but the music, the character and the charm of Cork has lured us back numerous times since.

Pic: Shutterstock

Where to go

It doesn’t have to be jazz weekend to hear great live music in Cork city. The place is bursting at the seams with talent and local venues willing to showcase it. An Spailpín Fánach, across the road from Beamish brewery is the spot for live trad in a cosy, fire-lit setting. Sober Lane is the ticket for a more rowdy evening of tunes and dancing. But my top recommendation for live music in the city is Coughlans Bar. Colour me biased but the aforementioned Niall McCabe Band play every Sunday night to a packed room in this historic. In fact, Cork city is the perfect place for a laid-back Sunday session of beers, banter and blues.

The English Market with its ornate vaulted ceilings is a popular spot to spend a few lazy hours browsing and tasting. If the weather is good, grab a few bits from the best of the local producers and head outside to the nearby Bishop Lucey Park for a picnic.

Another Cork gem, situated just a 25 minute drive from the centre, is Fota Wildlife Park. You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy a day with the animals. Fota has a really relaxed atmosphere where the animals roam without a cages or obstructive fencing. The cheetah feeding sessions are an absolute highlight.

Where to eat

Cork is a foodie’s dream come true with many local eateries championing local produce. The River Lee hotel offers a ‘Taste of Cork’ sharing platter showcasing artisan cheeses, meats, bread and chutneys from the region as well as a pint of locally crafted Franciscan Well beer.

For a truly unique dining experience in Cork, venture a little out from the city centre to Midelton. Tucked away at the end of a tiny laneway off Main Street is Sage. Owned and run by Kevin Aherne and his wife Réidín, Sage has a admirable food philosophy where all produce is sourced from within a 12-mile radius. Interestingly, Kevin trained with top chef René Redzepi, whose Copenhagen-based restaurant Noma was named the best restaurant in the world. The food here is bursting with flavour and freshness.

Where to stay

Shandon Bells Guesthouse is a traditional B&B set up in a Georgian home. It’s a short stroll from the center and is clean, cosy and charming.

Pic: River Lee Hotel

River Lee Hotel in Cork centre is modern and plush, featuring a lovely spa for a luxurious stay.