As with any of my builds I take a couple step forward and then take an epic leap back....

Made progress with all the little details while waiting for my new taps to arrive:

1.Due to the parts I had available I shaped the rear air cowling a bit near the damper plate to allow for the top shock and damper to have free movement.

2. because of the battery contacts I used I had to modify the battery clips ever so slightly to allow for fitment....the end closest to servo wouldn't fit past the contacts because of how far they sat out.

3. For those of you who plan on using Reflex racing long kingpins you should consider buying a set of spring cups for the long kingpin at the RR site as well...they act as almost the perfect spacer to secure a C-clip on top of the kingpin. I used one each side plus a couple 2mm washers.

4. my big step back was I failed to confirm my drill bit size and grabbed my 2.2mm bit for the 3d print knuckles....thereby screwing them royally for tapping for the atomic axle shafts. I made use of some R246 knuckles in the meantime but I've added some new knuckles to my parts list of things to buy from MC3. I will be keen on getting some because I see what you mean about the shorter tie rod pins being an issue.

If I didn't screw something up it wouldn't be one of my builds.

Now deciding on a paint scheme...won't be able to decal but I'm thinking of Manor Racing in tribute to their folding up and my skill at mini-Z (I'm definitely a back marker)

__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?

Thanks for the update. Most people's builds are going well. For those that don't have the parts lying around (which we thought most of you would), good news in that our custom titanium front end parts are finally being made (there was a significant delay due to Chinese New Year). We will sell a front end assembly pack shortly.

Also, should have a screw pack soon.

Another update in that I've effectively just arranged to buy all, if not most of the remaining supply of F1 servo savers, servo plates and some other bits from head office Kyosho Japan's stock.

In case anyone hasn't figured it out, they discontinued production years ago and are letting stock run out of the F1 parts. Once those quantities are gone, they are gone unless they decide to resurrect the class.

We will start work shortly on a KMD-FR01 version that will accept a sealed servo, rx and esc like GL's GLA setup. This should also work for those that aren't into Mini-Z and are coming from 1/10th and don't have old F1's lying around waiting to be transformed into a fast, fun, racing machine.

Last side note, we have a new body coming for the car shortly. We are testing now.

Also on the testing front, we are building our brushed test mule. We were waiting for a F1 servo saver which has come in. Once we are happy with the results, we will release that version.

Keep building! we want to hear feedback on builds and your racing experiences!

I've been busy with work, haven't had time to play with the new chassis much. Hopefully will find some time soon.

Great news about the small parts and screw set. I will definitely be picking a set up. Along with a servo saver. Unfortunately my donor chassis doesn't have one installed I must have given it to someone in a race a while back.

I would like to see what you guys come up with for a discrete servo. I would think that would be difficult due to the limitations you have in size with the body shape. Of course, you will have even more respect for the full scale f1 packaging engineers after this project...

Hey I just wanted to give you guys a heads up. We have had some customers break the rear motor mount with light to moderate hits. As far as we can tell this is due to the fact that the 3D printed material becomes much more brittle when it is cold (below room temperature). We did months of testing and never had any issues with the rear motor mount breaking. Last week we even had a massive impact between our chassis and a kyosho and ours walked away without a problem while the kyosho's pieces when everywhere in spectacular fashion (too bad we missed it on camera). For now we strongly recommend keeping the car at room temperature before running it. We are in the process of beefing up the rear motor mount in the mean time. Thanks

no weight is necessary to make it handle well, however we did put a spot into the bottom of the chassis to fit PN's triangular weights (for MR-03) for added tuneability. Just make sure as per the "Front-end" setup video that if using PN med, no caster, no camber. If using PN firm fronts, then some caster & camber. Otherwise, you will traction roll of have a good possibility of it.

Looking forward to more feedback.

As Kevin had noted previously, let your car come up to room temperature from either extreme cold (like storing your car in your vehicle all day) or hot (i.e. those places where it is warm now). Otherwise, you will break parts easily or possibly warp them.

so far, results are good. It is very driveable, however as it 3mm longer (to accommodate brushed motor) than the standard brushless setup, it is not as fast as the brushless motor in terms of lap times, but as noted, feels good.

Note, you have to switch the servo motor to the coreless motor from the MR-03 board if you want to use an old F1 board or better yet, use a MR-03 board from brushed MR-03 car you may have that lying around.

We received shipment yesterday!! (parts were stuck in customs for some time). Now we just need to check that the parts have been made to the correct dimensions and will work with our front suspension system. We will check them this weekend at the track, so as long as there are no issues they should be up on the MC3 website sometime next week. We will keep you posted.

Yeah. What Kevin said. Also, waiting for springs to arrive. They were shipped and should be here 1-2 weeks max. Then will put "front end packs" in stock. And add pics. Parts look good so far. Surprised how heavy the adjustment sleeve is even though in titanium. For that piece we chose gr4. The rest are gr2 if I recall correctly. The website is correct in any case.

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