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Hi,
I recently just made a custom mount for my Steadicam Scout rig to make it looks more like a professional rig.
I designed a simple bracket and I found a CNC machine shop to mill the parts for me.
But they usually build parts in a reasonable quantity. So I built 10 of them.
The bracket for to clamp a pair of 15mm rods on the Steadicam pole is finished and worked flawlessly.
I'm planning to design a monitor yoke too. But it is not quite economical to build 10 sets of them while I only need one.
The benefit of this modifcation is that the monitor position are now more flexible and independent of the battery position like the Zephyr.
Not only that you can adjust the height of the monitor too. Also it is now possible to adjust the moment of inertia of the rig.
So I'm looking for people with a Pilot rig or Scout rig to see if anyone would be interested in this modification.
I'm not looking to earn any money I just want some people to share the production cost :D
Each set should include:
1.)15mm bracket pole clamp
2.)Adjustable monitor yoke for Marshall/Steadicam 7" HD Monitor.
3.)A pair of 15mm rods
And I believe the cost for each set + Shipping should be under USD$150.
Please tell me if any of the Pilot and Scout owners are interested in this. If enough people are interested then I will design the monitor yoke and build it.
There will be around 8 sets available because I will be building 10 sets and I will keep one set for spare.
The picture above showing the modification. I don't have a monitor yoke yet so I used some 15mm bracket and a ball head to mount the monitor.
I didn't want to take the picture in the toilet. But it is the only place here with a bright background lol.

Hi there!
Some weeks ago I started to build a new CG-yoke for the Atomos Shogun Inferno and Flame series and the Ninja 7" versions. The thread is here.
While I was thinking I remembered my old wish for a new and better option to clamp my yoke to.
Here is what my precision mechanic and I designed:
On the top you see a yoke in the dimensions of a 7" Atomos monitor/recorder.
Below in purple there is the newly designed yoke clamp which makes it possible to rotate the yoke as far as the sled allows - and this very close to the bridge.
Below in green there is the newly designed bridge for the monitor arm coming from the sled. It clamps on standard 15mm rods. The distance of the rods can be everything you want beginning from 50mm. On the image you see a 70mm distance.
In some weeks I'll be able to show the prototypes.

The new monitor mount for Preston HU3 is ready.
It is the same concept as our mount for Arri WCU 3/4.
The monitor is as close to the index mark as possible.
The handgrip transfers the weight from the wrist to the biceps.
It also serves as a docking bracket for a c-stand.
The monitor can be quickly taken of with our included CineQuick release.
Prototye with dummy HU3 shown here

The WCU-4 with a monitor and receiver (and battery) attached is quite heavy. And the regular hand position on the left side is very far away from the center of gravity. This results in high fatigue on the wrist.
The JOE bracket allows to mount and adjust a monitor to the WCU-4 and has its own handgip which is placed much closer to the center of gravity. The weight is no longer carried by the wirst but by the much stronger biceps.
When the WCU does not need to be carried around the handgrip serves as a docking bracket on a C-stand.
The cam-jam JOE comes with its own quickrelease bracket on the monitor so nothing extra is needed. No noga arms, no cinelock, no spigots.
https://shop.cam-jam...-with-handgrip/

The WCU-4 with a monitor and receiver (and battery) attached is quite heavy. And the regular hand position on the left side is very far away from the center of gravity. This results in high fatigue on the wrist.
The JOE bracket allows to mount and adjust a monitor to the WCU-4 and has its own handgip which is placed much closer to the center of gravity. The weight is no longer carried by the wirst but by the much stronger biceps.
When the WCU does not need to be carried around the handgrip serves as a docking bracket on a C-stand.
The cam-jam JOE comes with its own quickrelease bracket on the monitor so nothing extra is needed. No noga arms, no cinelock, no spigots.
https://shop.cam-jam.de/product/joe-monitor-bracket-for-arri-wcu-4-with-handgrip/

Is anyone mounting the new SmallHD High Bright on a Pro Monitor Arm?
I haven't been able to find any good mounts that go to a Pro Spud. Pro doesn't make one and I've left multiple messages/e-mails for Howard at MK-V without hearing anything back.
What are you using?
If there aren't any good solutions, is there any interest in having Pro make a custom CNC'd batch?
Thanks everyone.

Hello guys,
I decided to make a little mod on my Ultra2 and before I go ahead I’d like to have some input from U2 owners.
I want to get rid of the upper monitor mount on the post3 in order to be able compress the rig another 3 inches or so. Since I bought my rig last June I never used the upper mount. In normal use, I place the monitor as down as possible. Even when I setup the rig to the extreme high or low mode the upper mount never seemed useful to me as it places the monitor too up high to my taste.
But when I fly lighter loads like an epic, not being able to shorten the rig another 3 inches translates to either less space to move the gimbal down on post2–harder to go to low mode- or too much space above it.
Also when I put a codex or OBI-1 deck at the base of the sled while shooting Alexa/Raw setups, the up-down weight ratio forces me to collapse the rig fully and every inch counts!
Even if an unpredicted situation presents itself, I can have another 15cm or so to raise the monitor by placing the monitor rods in reverse.
In order to take the mount out I have to undo the wires in the stage which is not an everyday job. That’s why I’d like to hear your input on the subject.
Do you use the upper mount? In which situations?

Hi guys,
I have an Ultra 2 and where the monitor mounts on the bracket on the center post, once the little pin snaps into place, I tighten the kipp handle and the whole bracket seems to still wiggle around a bit. Is there a simple fix for this or is a new kipp handle in order? I emailed Derek on Feb 25th about this and haven't received a reply yet. I'd really like to figure out how to get this solved.
Thanks in advance!
John