And here’s the thing. Without the usual mountain of stuff, lettuce leaves, slippy tomato slices, flick-out dill pickles, it’s actually a pleasure to eat and just taste the meat.

I hear it’s the guys who own Hamilton’s and Small Bar who took this over. With their fanatical interest in on-the-spot beers, I swear it’s the best thing that could have happened to the late-lamented Jewel Box.

Cosmo says he prefers hoppy to malty, and he's got a bunch of his own concoctions coming out over the next few weeks. Can't wait.