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Tuesday, October 23, 2012

The Rachel Outfit

This outfit is named after my dear sewing student, Rachel. You know how teachers are always saying that their students inspire them? It's so true!

The skirt is a pattern she and I developed together.

Rachel couldn't find a pencil skirt pattern that fit her the way she liked, so I draped one right on her body. From there, we've been exploring patternmaking for lots of different skirt styles, and we've recently been on a pleat mission. Rachel brought in this picture of Katie Holmes in a Caroline Herrara skirt, and wanted to copy it (jewels and all).

It's an unusual design: there are two inverted box pleats on either side, which are flanked by two knife pleats pressed inward. All the pleats end at different lengths, giving a staggered effect. Rachel and I made the pattern, and then she brought in the muslin to fit. I was captivated by it! I tried it on, and a few fit tweaks later, I was copying my student's pattern (with her enthusiastic permission, of course). Ours ended up a bit more flared at the bottom than the inspiration, which I loved.

I made the skirt up in a thick stretch sateen in a pretty sapphire color. The whole thing is lined in mint Bemberg lining, with a little lace for effect.

I finished the waist with polka dot petersham ribbon (I have a video class on this technique if you're interested).Readers, I'm curious how you would have sewn this lining. I used the same pattern as for the skirt, but just folded the pleats at the top rather than stitching them, to give wearing ease in the lining.

The shirt is also Rachel-inspired. She noted one day how she rarely sees me in separates, just dresses. My problem with separates, readers, is that's at least twice the outfit to decide on! And I'm not a morning person. Rachel's advice was this: figure out a "uniform" for yourself, and then just grab one of each uniform piece in the morning. She favors tailored button-down blouses, so I thought I would make one to match my skirt, in her honor.

This is Burda 2561, and I'm mostly happy with it. It has a nice easy fit that can be tucked in with a skirt or tied sassily in front with jeans. The armhole is pretty low, however, so I plan to remedy that when I make it again. The fabric is a lightweight cotton/silk blend from TrueMart Fabrics near FIT.

And here's the woman herself, trying on a jacket we were working on together earlier this year! Isn't she fabulous?

This is an adorable outfit! I love seeing a classic 50s print shirt with solid fabric for the skirt. You asked what we think about the lining? It seems to me that the method you use would be best if you want the skirt to have more body, since the tucks would add fullness to the inner structure. If someone wanted a more slender hip area, darts could replace the tucks (right?)

that skirt is perfect!!! I've been searching for the a pleated skirt pattern to knock off an old Anthro skirt I no longer fit into. This skirt is even cuter then the skirt I want to knock off!! I would buy the pattern for that skirt for sure if I could! (please!) The whole outfit is to die for!

I absolutely love the look of the skirt. The pleats form a really flattering shape.What I love even more is that you made a pattern from a photo. I see things all the time that I wish I could draft a pattern to look like. Very inspiring post!

I agree with Dana Rose: I have never known *anyone* who needed armholes as low as the pattern companies seem to like to draft them. I like mine super high, because I feel like it gives a better line and flatters my shape more--I think I'd need to raise this one 3" or so! Nutty. Would love to hear how you prefer to tackle that task!

I concur. It's particularly frustrating when you fall into a larger size category but don't have a larger frame. I'm a size 16 (give or take) but I'm short - 5'3". Luckily I have to do an FBA, so that usually gives me a good opportunity to raise the armholes.

I love the outfit - the skirt in particular is similar in shape to a denim one that I bought in Germany about 7 years ago. I don't think the pleats are exactly the same on mine but I love this shape and it's extremely flattering on you. If I saw this pattern for sale, I'd snap it right up, so you've definitely got something good here. Bravo.

The shirt is the perfect example of how the right fabric can totally change the look of a garment. If I were looking for a button-down shirt I might have passed this pattern by, due to the lackluster colors and fabrics shown in the illustrations. With your floral it takes on a totally different personality/look and it makes me want one like it! The many bright colors in the print mean it's versatile without being a neutral. And, of course, it looks great with the red pumps!

This is a wonderfully lovely outfit! I usually think of button downs as super corporate, but made in this fun cotton, your's looks great! I think I may have to give something like this a try sometime. :]

This is exactly the pattern I'm looking for to make up in a fabric my sister gave. Gotta love that free fabric! Mine is also a sateen and striped, and I'd want to place the stripes horizontally. I'll be watching for you to make it for us!!

When I made a similar skirt a few years ago I underlined it in silk organza rather than using a lining. It prevented wrinkles and gave body to the pleats. I sewed the two pieces together before sewing the side seams with the fashion fabric being wider by about 1" this created a self hong kong style seam finish.

A lot easier than it sounds but equals a skirt that looks like you spent a lot more time.

i really like the pleats also. im interested in how you pretreated the cotton sateen. i purchased some recently and after i laundered it per the care instructions it was twisted and off grain. someone mentioned i could have basted the selvege edges together to prevent the twisting. suggestions?

I just want to say that THAT SKIRT IS GORGEOUS AND I WANT ONE! So pretty, with just the right amount of flare! If I ever make it to the states, you'll probably find me stalking you one day trying to copy the pattern right off the skirt whilst you're wearing it...

Great skirt! That's a lovely print blouse, too; I rather like those lower armholes with this look. It tells me you might not smother it with a close fitting work blazer ;-). Excellent teamwork, you two!

I love the skirt. For myself, I would make the skirt lining narrower at the waist to eliminate some of the bulk of the pleats. I like a faced waistline because it is more comfortable for me and I usually don't tuck in my tops. I think I can adapt a pattern I already have for this. Love your blog!

I just watched a movie the other day on TCM called "She's Working Her Way Through College" from 1952. The main character's stage name is "Hot Garters Gertie"! (Played by Virginia Mayo)

She wears a skirt similar to this in the begining of the film, only the box pleats start high up at the waist and go all around. It is also very full like a circle skirt. You should check it out. Lots of cute clothes!

Oh wow. I love your version and the intiial inspiration. It's so nice to see something different in a skirt. I probably would have sewn the lining exactly like you did. The alternative I'm thinking of would be to have a lining that was less full, but I don't think that would be a good alternative. Likewise, gathering the extra width (rather than pleating) wouldn't be great, as it would increase bulk, and what I find so appealing about this style is that the width is below the hips, so more flattering than many A-line/ full skirts out there. Nice one ladies!