SUGII SHUZO

SHIZUOKA

Shizuoka is a large coastal prefecture on the Pacific Ocean side of Honshū [main island] of Japan. In the West, the prefecture extends deep into the Japan Alps. In the East it becomes a narrower coast bounded in the North by Mount Fuji, until it comes to the Izu Peninsula.

The Sugii Brewery was founded in Fujieda City in 1843 and has distinguished itself by continuing to only use traditional brewing techniques such as ‘Kimoto’ and ‘Yamahai’. Kimoto is the original method for preparing the starter mash, which includes having to grind the rice and water into a paste like consistency with bamboo poles for hours on end, and the ferment takes about 4 weeks. The Kimoto method was the original method used for centuries, but is rare to see today because of how lengthy and labour intensive the method is.

The Yamahai method of fermentation, is a slightly simplified version of the Kimoto method that was created in 1909. Yamahai skips the step of making a paste out of the starter mash, which is known as yama-oroshi, and so the full name for Yamahai is actually “yama-oroshi haishi”, meaning “discontinuation of yama-oroshi.” When the Yamahai method was originally developed it meant that the production of sake was easier, but now this has been surpassed by the Sokujo or modern method, that adds lactic acid at the beginning of the moto and so it is not only easier than the original Kimoto method it is also faster with fermentation only taking about 14 days.

The owner of this tiny brewery, Sugii-san, is also the Toji [Master Brewer] and so he is able to make the decision to use the Kimoto and Yamahai methods to make specialty brews even though it means extra production time. These ‘limited’ brews, which are very suited to ageing, is one reason Sugii Shuzo’s sake sell out in a matter of days each brewing season.

SUGII SHUZO - SHIZUOKA

CLASSIFICATION:

Junmai • Pure Rice Sake

Daiginjo • Rice polished to at least 50%

Genshu • Undiluted

A robust version of a classic Shizuoka Daiginjo. Sugii-san is actually very good at making such a sake and has won plenty of gold medals in the past before deciding he was more interested in full-bodied Kimoto and Yamahai Sake (which is now 85% of his production). This particular Sake was submitted to the Shizuoka competition this year and won one of the main prizes. The aroma is not as strong as Daiginjo made with Hiroshima yeast so more balanced and delicate.

SUGII SHUZO - SHIZUOKA

CLASSIFICATION:

Junmai • Pure Rice Sake

Yamahai • Traditional yeast starter method

Muroka • No charcoal filtration

Tenpo 13 has been made using the traditional Yamahai yeast starter method. Yamahai is a brewing method, that along with the Kimoto method, is generally only used used in specialty brews by artisanal breweries due to the extra brewing time and added risk in requires. Most modern sake are made in the Sokujō method where lactic acid is added at the beginning of the moto [starter mash] which makes it easier, faster and less risky than both Kimoto and Yamahai. The full name for Yamahai is “yama-oroshi haishi” meaning “discontinuation of yama-oroshi” which is the labour intensive step of making a paste out of the starter mash in the kimoto method. In 1909 Mr. Kinichiro Kagi at the National Institute for Brewing Studies discovered that if the starter was left alone, but kept slightly warmer and with slightly more water then the enzymes in the kōji would, over time, naturally dissolve all the rice in the developing moto with no laborious mashing required by workers. Sugii-san only makes yamahai and kimoto sake producing sake with great acidity, body and depth. The Yamahai method has produced a robust and full-bodied sake. With a complex and textural palate this sake has savoury elements of rice bran and a hint of earthiness.

YEAR: 2015

RICE TYPE: Hitombore [Kōji] & Aichi no Kaori [Kake]

RICE POLISHING: 78%

ALCOHOL: 15.3%

YEAST STRAIN: #7

SERVE: Room Temperature

*Koji = rice used for creating the Koji. *Kake = rice used in the main fermentation

SUGII SHUZO - SHIZUOKA

CLASSIFICATION:

Junmai • Pure Rice Sake

Yamahai • Traditional yeast starter method

Muroka • No charcoal filtration

This Suginishiki is made with the Yamahai starter method. Yamahai is a brewing method, that along with the Kimoto method, is generally only used used in specialty brews by artisanal breweries due to the extra brewing time and added risk in requires. Most modern sake are made in the Sokujō method where lactic acid is added at the beginning of the moto [starter mash] which makes it easier, faster and less risky than both Kimoto and Yamahai. The full name for Yamahai is “yama-oroshi haishi” meaning “discontinuation of yama-oroshi” which is the labour intensive step of making a paste out of the starter mash in the kimoto method. In 1909 Mr. Kinichiro Kagi at the National Institute for Brewing Studies discovered that if the starter was left alone, but kept slightly warmer and with slightly more water then the enzymes in the kōji would, over time, naturally dissolve all the rice in the developing moto with no laborious mashing required by workers. Sugii-san only makes yamahai and kimoto sake producing sake with great acidity, body and depth. This is a sake with a more robust character. It is made with Tamazakae rice, which gives the resultant sake an earthy, almost herbal character. Here we see notes of butterscotch and spice, while the palate has an earthy, mineral character with a touch of fresh herbs.

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