Welcome to the BC Blog! Here you'll find articles about our company Bitter Creek Candle Supply, Inc., as well as articles on candlemaking, soapmaking, bath & body, air fresheners, the craft business, etc! Grab a cup of coffee and make yourself at home :) Check back often for new articles and contests for our blog followers!

Step 1)Add 1/2 oz fragrance oil to Soap Base. *Note: if you add too much
fragrance oil to the base, the base will thin out and be more water-like,
rather than gel form. Be careful!

Once you add the fragrance and
mix well, the base will then appear cloudy. This is caused by tiny bubbles
within the base. As you can see, base without fragrance (above) vs. base with
fragrance (below). Don't worry, it will turn back to clear once it has settled.
:)

Step 2) Measure out base+ fragrance mixture.If you are planning to make the
entire batch just one color, this will save yourself some time. If you are
wanting to make a few different colors, there are some things you will want to
know.

(1) gallon of base weighs 8.5lbs.

(1) 8oz Bullet Bottle will hold exactly 8.5oz of base.

(1) gallon of base will make exactly (16) 8oz Bullet Bottles.

Step 3) Add Mica Powder Colorant.We have a variety of colors to
choose from on our Mica Powder line. A few examples can be seen below. I made a
few different colors with this batch. I used exactly (1) "Dash"
measurement of Mica Powder for 17oz of base. I used this amount for each color
and it worked well.

Pearl Pink Mica Powder in a "Dash" measuring spoon

Pearl White Mica

Pearl Yellow Mica

Pearl Green Mica

Pearl Blue Mica

Step 4) Pour colored base into 8oz Bullet
Bottles.Using a funnel is super handy!
Fill the bottles only to the point where the bottle starts curving up to the neck,
like in the example pictured below.

Step 5) (Final Step!) Cut 3/4"-1" off the end of the
Pump Cap tube & secure onto the bottles.You'll notice that the tubes
connected to the pump caps are just a bit too long for a perfect fit onto the
8oz bullet bottles. Cutting 3/4" - 1" off the end of the tube at an
angle helps to ensure a perfect fit. Example below of where to cut.

Sunday, September 30, 2018

"How do you make your wax melts?" and "Do you have any tips and tricks you could share?"

Well I sure do!

Making wax melts may seem way too easy, and I'm here to help it stay that way; so we're going to cover EVERYTHING. The scent throw, the perfect wax, the coloring, the duration of the scent throw... we're going to discuss it all!

...

...

First off, let's discuss the basics.

There are a LOT of things to consider when choosing the right materials to get started on your melt-making journey. You'll want to ask yourself questions such as...

~Are you looking to make melts in clamshells,

or molded melts that you plan to pop out of tart molds and package?

~Are you wanting bold color, mild color, or no color at all?

~Are you wanting a wax that leaves a smooth surface after cooling, or perhaps you'd like it to have a bit of frosting?

~How long would you like the scent throw of your melts to last?

All of the questions above point to one big decision...

You need the PERFECT wax for the job!

~Wax & Duration of scent throw~

Paraffin waxes tend to hold scent longer than soy wax. Soy wax breaks down much more rapidly than paraffin wax, leaving the scent throw strong, but for a lesser amount of time when it comes to wax melts. A paraffin blend wax melt may last up to as much as 20 hours, while 100% soy melts may last only up to the 5-8 hour range depending in the fragrance. Straight paraffin waxes may be nice for some, but there is one thing that is sometimes the last thing that comes to mind too late... melting. These melts need to actually melt right? Straight paraffin waxes tend to be pretty hard, while having greater melt point than paraffin/soy blended waxes.

There is a large array of wax tart warmers on the market today. Some electric warmers have heated plates that have removable bowls to set the wax in, while other electric warmers rely on a small heat-producing light bulb. While the heated plate type warmers may be hot enough to melt and entire wax melt made of straight paraffin, that isn't always the case for a light bulb-type warmer.

And let me tell you... there is no customer like the angry customer that will come back if the wax melts they purchased, don't melt.

I always recommend trying a paraffin blend/soy blended wax to steer clear of situations like this. We have several variations to choose from, however I really recommend using our EZ Parasoy wax for clamshell molds.Amazing scent throw, color retention... not to mention this wax leaves a creamy smooth finish to melts, which is extremely appealing to the eye. Give it a try, and see why so many customers LOVE this wax for clamshells.

Q: "Why isn't the EZ Parasoy wax able to be used for molded wax melts?"A: "The EZ Parasoy wax is a fairly soft wax. Not quite as soft and crumbly as 100% soy can be, but it is much softer than a paraffin wax. When packaging molded melts made with this wax, the wax tends to "smear" the clear plastic bags, or storage boxes. Because of this, I don't recommend this wax being used for molded melts, as the wax is a bit too fragile for such use."

Q: "What wax can be used for making molded wax melts?"A: The IGI 4794 is a great choice for making molded wax melts. This wax has a smooth, creamy, opaque appearance, and will leave a matte finish.

Scent throw. And lots of it!!!

Scent throw can be a touchy topic for candle makers. There is much to be said about the different techniques that are used to get that oh-so-perfectly strong scent throw that the makers and customers long for.

You'll come to realize that wax is going to be your sole platform for making great melts.

Your "home base" of melt making so to speak.

Scent throw is off when you're doing everything by the book?... Try a different wax!

Color won't hold no matter what you do?... Try a different wax!

You just can't get that darn frosting to go away?... Try a different wax!

The wax is just too soft to keep its shape for molded melts?... Try a different wax!

You get the idea.

Most waxes are recommended to be used at 6%... in candle making.

But we're not making candles, are we now.. so if you're not satisfied with the scent throw at 6%, check the specific ranges for the wax you are using and bump it up. If you've been testing at 6%, but your wax has a max fragrance capacity of 9%, bump it up to 9% and see where that takes you. Better? Worse? Same? It's all about testing. Trust your nose!

If you can't smell it, chances are your customers won't either.

Speaking of maximum usage.. little known fact time!

Using too much fragrance in wax may not sound like a bad idea, but using too much fragrance, can actually drown out the smell all together! No joking here. Really. Time and time again I have comments made to me how a customer is adding a LOT of fragrance to their wax and is just having no scent throw.

In these situations, I always recommend to bring it back to basics with their testing. Back it up to a stable 6% again and see what the difference is. Better? Worse? Same?

~Pouring Temperature~Pouring temp plays a big role in making appealing clamshell packaged wax melts. Pour your wax too hot into the mold, and it will actually melt the entire plastic mold. Not... fun.No matter what wax you are using, pour no hotter than 160°F, to avoid melting the packaging.

~Achieving a smooth finish~Depending what wax you plan to use, some waxes require what's called a "repour". A repour is a second pouring of wax, after the first pour has cooled and dents in the wax (sink holes) are visible, causing the wax to need a second "repour" in order to leave a smooth surface. This is quite common in candles, however it sometimes happens also with making wax melts. If you happen to ever encounter a situation where your melts are left with sink holes after they have cooled, instead of pouring an entire new layer of wax to smooth the surface, try using a Craft Heat Gun. Heat guns heat at a fast pace, while not having such a wind force behind them like a blow dryer does. I have actually heard of a couple customers using a hair blow dryer to heat the surface of the wax to smooth it out, but it does not typically end well, for obvious reasons of wax being blown everywhere. :)~Frosty finish~If you are looking to achieve a "frosty finish" (snow-like appearance) on your melts, you're in luck! Our 100% soy EzSoy wax tends to "frost" quite a bit more than other comparable waxes when poured at a higher temperature. The frosted look is quite popular around the holidays, with no additives needed! Pouring into the clamshell molds when this wax is a bit hotter, rather than when the wax is in the "slushy" cooling stage, will help achieve this "frosty" look. Using this method, with the Frost Bite fragrance is perfect for a Christmas Craft Show!

~Wax Melts Packaging~ There are several different kinds of wax melts packaging options on the market today, and we happen to carry quite a few of them!Clamshell Molds are one of the #1 mold packaging options available. They're easy to use, they are a nice handy size that fits in your hand, and they seal in all of the yummy wax melt fragrances for years (literally) until they are opened.Foil Cups: Remember seeing those little mini cupcake foil cups in the baking isle at the store? They happen to make super cute wax melt packaging! Fill up a few, and package them in a clear back, sealed with a twist tie for an attractive gift. Wax Brittle Boxes: This is a newer form of packaging, that has become quite popular. Fill a clear plastic cello bag with molded wax melts or crumbled wax melts, and seal the bag within the brittle box. These stack nicely and make for a memorable palm-sized gift for any event. Clear Plastic Cello Bags: Cello Bags are an excellent way to cost-effectively package your wax melts. We offer a variety of sizes, with features such as hanging holes, to fit you specific needs. Souffle Cups: These plastic souffle cups are a fantastic idea for individual melts. They come with matching lids, and look absolutely wonderful in a basket filled with a variety of colors. Price them 10/$6.00, etc for a nice profit at a craft show or farmer's market.

~Storing Wax Melts~When packaging molded wax melts, I've heard of customers often times using our clear plastic air-tight Cello Bags to package their wax melts. Storing the melts in a cool, dry, dark place within an air-tight storage container is the best possible way of storing wax melts. This also helps ensure that your wax melts last for as long as possible before they are used or sold.~Safety Warning Labeling!~Last but not least of the topics I wanted to be sure to cover here, is safety warning labels for these items. It is extremely important that you label each and every one of your wax melt packages with a simple warning label to ensure proper warnings and safety advisories have been mentioned for all customers, or anyone who may handle and use your wax melts after they are given away or sold. PLEASE look through and select one of our manyWarning Label optionsto keep both yourself and your customers safe. We offer both white labels, as well as kraft brown to suit your labeling needs. Thank you!.........

I hope to have covered a few things that you may have been wondering about, as you venture onto making superior wax melts. As I gather more helpful info, I will always be adding information to this blog to help everyone learn as much as they possibly can, to make the best product possible.

PLEASE let me know if there are any questions that you may still have, or any advise that I may be able to give, to help you succeed.

As always, if there is a topic that you would like to see a blog about, we would love to hear from you!

Step 1 - Mix Coconut Oil and Sweet Almond Oil together until well blended. I found that using a simple flat beater attachment on my stand mixer worked well at a medium speed.

Step 2 - Slowly add your choice of skin safe fragrance oil. I used exactly 1/4oz of fragrance oil and the scent was great. (I used Pomegranate Lemonade). It wasn't too strong, and not too weak. A little goes a long way! Beat well.

*Note: I switched over to a hand mixer at this point, in order to "fluff" up the mixture more by whipping as much air as possible into the mix.

You'll notice the mixture turn more white the longer you mix and the oils blend together. You'll also see bubbles start to appear!

Step 3 - Working with Coconut in the hot summer months has its downfalls. coconut oil is a very soft oil, that melts with the simple warmth from your fingers. If the room that you're working in is warm, you may need to put the bowl into a fridge for a few minutes (I left it in for just 5 minutes), to cool the oils back below room temp, in order to start seeing a real "whipped" look as soon as you continue mixing.

Step 4 - Once you start seeing a real "whipped" look to your oils, go ahead and add your Bronze Mica Powder. This is another product where a little really does go a long way. I used just 2 teaspoons of mica to achieve a really nice shimmery shade of bronze (the pictures don't do justice). Be sure to mix thoroughly!

*The mixture was still a bit too creamy (above), so I put the bowl in the fridge for another 5 minutes to achieve the perfect "whipped" consistency (below).*

Step 5 (final step) - Once you've completely mixed all oils and mica together thoroughly, you can simply scoop the mixture out of the bowl with a spoon to place into your containers, or you can put all of the mixture into a gallon size plastic bag, cut a small hole into the bottom corner, and neatly squeeze the mixture into your containers. (This really seemed to cut down on the amount of mess for me.)

*Note: Since this project is Coconut based, be sure to store in a cooler area (less than 65°F) to prevent the mixture from completely melting!

If there is a Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made, we would love to hear from you!

Step 1 - Choose your base container candle. When selecting a container candle to marble, choosing a soy blended wax is ideal, due to the softness of the wax.

*Note: The softer the wax, the more likely the colors are, to fading into each other over time. A 100% soy wax will morph into one color in about a week, losing the marbled look.

Step 2 - Taking a completely cooled and prepared container candle, use the toothpick diameter 6" piece of wire to poke multiple holes along the glass, until you reach the bottom of the container. It's not recommended to poke too many holes (about 6 maximum), to prevent the dye from flooding the base candle into one new color.

*Note: Make sure to clear all wax from the hole that you have just created. This will allow the liquid dye to disperse easier down the candle.

Step 3 - Take the liquid candle dye and apply one drop of dye to each hole that you made along the sides of the candle. One drop is all you need to make nice color swirls in the base candle.

Step 4 - The drops of dye usually do not spread all the way to the bottom of the candle on their own, which is where the metal wire comes into play again. Use the metal wire to follow the original punctures, to force the dye all the way to the bottom of the candle.

Step 5 - After all lines of dye have been forced to the bottom of the container, use a heat gun to start on one line at a time. Focusing on just one line of dye, slowly follow the line of dye with the heat gun in a sweeping motion back and forth. As soon as you see the wax starting to melt, you'll notice the dye quickly moving along the melted area.

*Note: This is where I found a helpful trick. Sometimes if heated too much where a bit too much wax is melted, the dye will flood the melted area in a fairly large amount rather quickly. Using a bowl of ice cold water, as soon as you see where the dye is flooding a bit too much, stop the heat gun and quickly place your container candle into the bowl of water just until it is level with the surface of the wax within the container. This will "freeze" the design without morphing your entire candle into one color.

The marble designs become very pretty, very quickly :)

Step 6 - When you have completed all sides of your candle, you'll see that the surface of your candle is a bit "less than satisfactory". There will be dye, wax bits and a whole lot of uneven surfaces. Wait until the candle is completely cooled, then using your heat gun in a circular motion, heat the candle surface just until the surface is completely flat.

Step 7 (final step) - Once the surface is completely cooled, take a napkin or paper toweling to carefully follow along just above the surface, to clean up any wax or dye for a neat, clean look.

Secure a lid to each candle for the finishing piece. These candles are simply beautiful!

If there is a fun Candle or Bath & Body product that you would like seen made, we would love to hear from you!

Step 1 - Cut soap base into 1" cubes along score lines. Fill a medium microwave-safe bowl with the cubes and heat for 30 seconds at a time, while stirring well after each heating until the base is fully melted (an entire 2lb tray of soap takes roughly 3.5-4 minutes to fully melt).

Step 2 - Once the base is fully melted, add your choice of FD&C dye to the desired shade of your choice. These dyes turn out very nicely! Stir well.

*Note: each block of base is 2lbs. I split the block and colored each lb a different color. 1lb of base makes nice size soap bars when using the ribbons mold.

Step 3 - Once your base is colored, add 1/8 cup of Epsom Salt per lb. of base and stir well. If you add too much salt, the bars will not hold together properly when removing the bars from the mold.

*Note: The Epsom Salt will sink to the bottom of the base once added. This can not be avoided, however this is what makes up the nice designs on the finished bars.