Issue number 36. “Nothing is lost, everything can be transformed” is often said mockingly of those who don’t like waste or like savings a little too much. It is time to start using that expression for other reasons. The world, in many areas, is no longer just evolving, it is transforming at a huge rate!

DREAM SWEEPER

Lionel Sabatté is a dream sweeper who saves the ephemeral. He is a good genie who wants to prolong the existence of that which has been abandoned, damaged or rejected, without necessarily trying to recycle. His driving idea is renewal, he likes to question traces and catch time as it passes.

He is one of those artists that invent worlds, by unpicking ours, and that give our perceptions another meaning. One day he noticed a piece of dust flitting around and found it poetic. A few years later he sculpted a life-size wolf with pieces of dust gathered in the metro at rush hour, especially at Châtelet-Les Halles in central Paris, a place of intense traffic (up to a million people daily). The surprising paradox was that the dust motes (“sheep” in French) turned into wolves! Some interpreted it as a symbol of the proverb “united we stand”. More recently he composed a black swan spreading its wings as if to escape a black tide. However, as a DIY expert who associates contrasted materials, nothing is ever “black is black”, there is always a modicum of hope.

He created another metamorphosis using one cent coins that he began to collect when the euro was put into circulation in 1999 as the cent is the object that we pass to one another, “that circulates from hand to hand, shined by the constant contact of all the people who have touched them”. As currency is “a symbol of the civilisations that use it and of exchange between men”. These little brown coins were transformed into scales on “money” fish which were then suspended over the ground in the Aquarium. As below them, chimerical animals, worried or worrying dinosaurs perch on hundred year old tree stumps from the Meuse that witnessed wars and were uprooted by the storm in 1999…

Lionel Sabatté’s animal sculptures let their metallic structure be seen and open their jaws or beaks to call or sing. It is up to us to listen to and hear them in our own way…

Bruno Lancelot

• “Fabrique des profondeurs” exhibition by Lionel Sabatté, at the Aquarium de Paris, until May 18th.

DANGEROUS EQUALITY

Why on earth is everyone suddenly talking about equality? Are we all going mad?

One thing is sure, equality is a right. One of those rights that form the basis of the “rules that regulate men’s relationships within society by implying an equitable sharing of goods, prerogatives and freedoms”. With the same qualifications, a white person, black person or northern African person should have the same chances of getting a job, this is a given. For the same level of responsibility and workload, a man and a woman should be paid the same salary, no question. And whether one is heterosexual or homosexual, one should be feel protected in the same way, in terms of property as much a health. Of course!

Where things seem to go off the rails is when the only alternatives to “equality” are “superiority” or “inferiority”. If there is no equality, then there has to be an imbalance or a form of injustice. But not being equal can also just mean being different. It’s fantastic to be different. It is what enables us to distinguish ourselves from one another. Difference means wealth. Why should everything be always on the same level, running the risk of rendering everything uniform, banal, sterile, of no longer being able to compare and affirm one’s character, desires, ambitions? Out of fear of being stereotyped we want to make everything anonymous, or worse, bring out the most primitive of evidence! Like between men and women. But the fact exists: given the same size, corpulence and lifestyle, men are stronger than women, and women’s bodies are statistically more flexible. Without even getting into breasts, wombs, pubis or penis. Can we really cover up physical and genetic diversity? Should everything be mixed?

Otherwise, we can continue to take on the notion of equality to express all sorts of claims, even frustrations. Which is most probably the crux of the problem. Except it throws light on diversities that could, all of a sudden, seem abnormal. Seriously, having always lived happily measuring 1.55m, don’t tell me I should try basketball!

ROLE PLAY

Two famous actors have brought out books at the same time.Philippe Torreton speaks of his grandmother in «Mémé».Francis Huster in «Family killer», takes a look at Xavier Dupont de Ligonnès, the central character in the family tragedy we all know.

And it is hard not to wonder why they turn to writing when they excel in their own careers?Philippe Torreton could just as easily have told us of his grandmother on stage, as Philippe Caubère does so well, telling tales of his family in his one man show.And Francis Huster who is trying out the thriller, could also have taken inspiration from the Ligonnès tragedy to transform it into an eternal tragedy for the 21st century.

It is true, after all, why did neither one write a play? Huster’s crime novel is essentially written in dialogue…Is the theatre not enough?Is it not a complete art, with its own rhetoric? Writing… Words to be read, not spoken. There is the explanation. An irresistible need. The need to not be the character one is playing for the audience but to give life, in silence, to a character one has inside, for diverse reasons. With one’s own words. To “get off the stage” for a while.

THE POWER OF A STRONG WOMAN

Simple mortals transformed into super-heroes… An idea that is not new but the fascination, dreams adventures and supernatural powers retain their seductive power. Among the female characters, one stands out. The one and only Wonder Woman!

When you think about it… She came to be sixty years ago and still inspires much fantasy. And not only erotic ones, with her tempting mini shorts and push up bustier. Wonder Woman, in both her comic book and television incarnations blended clichés and the avant-garde.

To become Wonder Woman, one must be a sweet and generous woman with hips and curves. But you must also be strong and intelligent. Wonder Woman is an Amazon above all. Submission and pacifism are not on the menu. Even though, after having captured all the bad guys, she tries to convert them using love, not weapons.

From a fashion viewpoint, Wonder Woman is a magnificent representative of the American flag. Imagine! The rest of her outfit is not to be sneezed at… In 2011, the shoe brand André even brought out an exact replica of her boots as well as ballet pumps inspired by her style. Even if Catwoman were around, the stars, embroidery and red of Wonder Woman’s outfit are coveted by fashionistas.

From a design point of view she gets full marks too! Wonder Woman’s entirely transparent plane was ahead of its time. Today, crystal plastic furniture like Phillipe Starck’s designs for “Kartell” have become essential. Let's go gurther : the glass architecture of the Louis Vuitton foundation in the Bois de Boulogne was inspired by a sailboat. Inspiration for future means of transport?

But the most surprising aspect was her golden lasso. A glamorous accessory that could make people obey her will and tell her the truth. The dream of every boy and girl. Especially after the episode where she announced she was going to reveal how to make one the next episode. Of course, she didn’t. So the kind, sincere Wonder Woman could tell a lie after all?

It was hard to stay mad at her though. Well done Wonder Woman… Makes you want to take another look at all her stories to see what she might still reveal!

voluptuousness

Among the photographers who love to capture movement in one image, Frédéric Delangle is a veritable virtuoso who has managed to catch the vibration of lovemaking and transform it visually into an elusive feeling of sensual delight. In the "Coït" series, with its peculiar lighting, the superimposition of movements covers the love scenes with a veil of discretion.

FREEZE DRIED FUTURE !

After this winter’s bad weather and climate-related catastrophes, not to mention the pessimistic economic forecast, we’ll soon be on the lookout for survival equipment! There is no need to be an adventurer, alpinist, astronaut or sailor to take an interest in meal kits and dried food. This type of food preservation is set to surprise us as there is no stopping progress! As far back as the 13th century, the Indians of the Andes used a similar ice-drying method to make chuño.

However, explaining the process through which food is preserved by freeze-drying is more difficult! It is a sort of dehydration process that involves eliminating the water contained in the food, first by turning it into ice and the by getting rid of it without the melting process. How magical: turning ice straight into steam without going through the liquid stage! The operation is known as “sublimation” and enables all of the product’s qualities to be preserved. And the process leads to long-term conservation as products can go from eighteen months to five years from their manufacturing date without the need for additives or refrigeration!

Freeze-dried foods are not the same as regular dehydrated foods. They are not dried using heat to evaporate the water, but in fact are treated in a low pressure vacuum so that not only do they not develop any bacteria, but above all they retain all their nutritional properties and vitamins and even their taste, smell and colour. Their opaque, very strong packaging can be used as a recipient for pouring water into for rehydration. So the good surprise is that an 80g sachet can be transformed into a 300g dish or more (the not so good surprise is that they are a little more expensive than ordinary ready-meals).

As if these products were nothing but snake oil, the first things we think of are instant coffee or dried mushrooms, when in fact, today we can find a range of meals that are diverse and appetising (Chicken and rice colombo, paella, Aligot aveyronnais, etc.) which provide nourishment without extra weight gain… Or enable us to eat even if we are stuck at home.

RADIO GAGA

Programmes dedicated to children’s reactions to current affairs have existed for decades. These programmes usually went out on air during the weekend, in a rest period. Since then things have gotten quite serious. These childish sequences have proliferated on the airwaves to the extent that we now get them in adult programming.

So, a minute or two before eight o’ clock news on France Info, right when most parents are telling their kids “hurry up, we’re going to be late”, children’s voices comment on Vladimir Putin, or wonder if a year in prison for the young man who threw a kitten against a wall is “a lot all the same”!, adding that it was perhaps because the cat was ginger. It is fresh as a way to start the day, if that is what the radio station is going for just before the news.On France 2, every Sunday after the eight pm news, teenagers give their opinions about the events of the week. And this leads to comments such as “It’s no reason to hit him”, about three young people sentenced for beating up a disabled man. Pertinent.

Obviously, these sequences are taped. If they were live, a programme like the “juniors de France Info” might actually be funny… For example, they might have corrected the presenter who announced today “the 12th of January” when it was in fact the 12th of February. Then we could have stated with certainty that the truth comes from the mouths of babes…

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

THE LET IT BE SELECTIONFOR L’ACHARNŒUR

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

THE LET IT BE SELECTIONFOR L’ACHARNŒUR

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

Lord SM - 180€

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

Uni&Vintage -198€

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

Aline Lang - 80€

Aline Lang is a photographer and graphic artist who one day, for fun, drew a bracelet watch like a piece of film. A designer at Cartier, Omega, liked it and oriented her into watch face design. Her first watch was for the bicentenary of the French revolution. Since then she has designed over forty watches, including one for the Bibliothèque nationale. Her rare and unusual creations are born from her inspiration and are produced as limited editions.

THE ACHARNŒUR’S SELECTION

The Gallops watch. An homage to chronophotography (the decomposition of a movement by a succession of photographs) and to Muybridge’s work that in 1878, proved that the four legs of a horse leave the ground at the same time when the horse gallops. This watch was first made by a big luxury house before being edited by the Musée d’Orsay. Its leather bracelet and particularly flat face makes this version timeless.

145€

GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN

She used to work under the name « Frénétik ». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

RESTAURANT - PARISMetro Pigalle Line 2 or 12

It’s the place of the hour! And for good reason: it’s all desserts, all the time. But careful, it’s all a little misleading too, as here the opéra cake tastes more like foie gras and the ile flottante like black truffles… The experience is surprising as it proves how influential our sight is in preparing our palette and how the transformation makes us react. Let the fearful relax, the “real” desserts are actually sweet. In the meantime, kudos to Sephora Nahon, the project’s initiator, and the talent of her chef François Cresp, not to mention the collaboration of chef David Gutman, who trained under Ducasse. Feel like forgetting everything you know about taste?

FREEFALLING

Skiing is fun, the smell of raclette, wood fires, holidays, and that’s all good. But we tend to forget the total pain it can be most of the time. We must truly suffer from collective amnesia to want to go back every year. Especially in long-distance skiing.

To start with, when renting equipment, the ski-rental guy asks the million dollar question: what do you weigh? So we dutifully answer under our breath that we’re not sure, giving a ballpark figure that is often way too vague. The horror! Once you get up on the slopes, dressed from head to toe in good intentions (and a jumpsuit of course, but we’ll get back to it) and if we’ve underestimated our weight the skis will stick to the snow. If the snow is fresh, even on a steep slope we have to use our batons (good for the biceps through). If you overestimated your weight, you’ll slide fast, way too fast, and end up head over skis that your “friends” in front will immediately photograph and upload to some social network.

The slopes for long distance skiing are interminable so a break is called for during the day. Out of breath, bent over in pain, dying of starvation, you produce your sandwich which is as flat as your energy levels. Not even a glass of mulled wine to console you before heading back out, not easy!

Next comes the loo break. Once you finally make it back out of the toilets after a run-in with your jumpsuit, you realise that your friends (note to self: get new ones), haven’t bothered to wait. You get to a crossroads, it’s snowing so hard you don’t know where you’re going. In short, you’re lost. You start to swear to yourself that you will NEVER ski again, even under pain of death, if you make it down alive.

Just then you fall over, turn your head a little and spot miniscule rabbit paw prints in the snow. The beauty of nature, the purity of such immaculate whiteness, and especially the silence, that’s why you go back every year.So you get up with the aid of your fighting spirit and get back on track, with a huge smile.

NO FIXED PLACE

It all kicked off one day when I was bored! To pass the time, I rearranged my collection of Kinder toys that I had kept for no good reason… One awkward movement and one of them slipped down into the space between the furniture and the wall. So I had to move the commode to get it back.All of a sudden, the dresser sideways gave the impression that the space in my room took on another dimension. Like a little separation that, if you slid cushions behind it, would be a private space where I could read or write in my diary. And what if I shifted the bad, would the room feel bigger? The result was doubtful but I did get the impression I was in a new room!

I think I rearranged my room at least six times from then on. And with each new inspiration I would celebrate by buying little objects to decorate. Nothing revolutionary, I didn’t spend all my pocket money on stuff but a little cushion (a pink one, I was so proud!), a kitschy (not to me!) knick-knack that I picked up in the “pound store”… Once I even managed to negotiate a new duvet cover with my mother…

Today I live in a simple, unpretentious house with my man and my two kids. They often joke by saying “so are we celebrating the new living room tonight?” Yes, I still have a tendency to “rethink” everything! I often paint furniture to make even more of a change… Redecorating through recycling: the “home staging” trend is something I’ve always done! So what do I do for a living? I’m looking for work. My friends and family are trying to get me to do an interiors course… Perhaps it’s time to take that step?