Here's the problem, if I rev the car passed 3000 to 4000 rpms the lights in the car will flicker, the gauge lights dim and the volts drop. In addition to this the low trac or asr light would pop up even though the car is in neutral. The car will also pop and sputter at that range and if I rev it passed 5000 rpms, once the rpms drop to idle the car shakes and sputters as it tries to stay turned on. So I'll give some gas and the car will catch itself and idle normal.

At the track doing burnouts or launching the car from the line would create the sputtering and hesitation symptoms and would fix itself and then return at higher rpm. I would get the p0300 random misfire code, which means it can be anything. I also keep getting the 1637 code ecm/abs.

could be a few different things..... I'd check the free stuff first..... make sure all your plug wires are on securely, alternator cables are snug, check you don't have a fouled plug etc. I know on mine, when the alternator was going bad, my gauges would flicker or get dim at times, especially when the defroster was on. If it is your alternator.... don't cheap out, get the good one, not a crappy remanufactured one..... I did that, and after the 5th replacement in a year, I just got a new one and haven't had an issue since. Make sure all your electrical connections are good, if its still having trouble, might be a bad coil. Plenty of people here with plenty of good knowledge to help ya out

what if I told you a while back that the red alternator cable that connects on top and goes to what I believe is the pcm, ripped off while doing a alternator replacement. I bought a new connector and just crimped the wires together and did not solder it. Could this be my problem?

what if I told you a while back that the red alternator cable that connects on top and goes to what I believe is the pcm, ripped off while doing a alternator replacement. I bought a new connector and just crimped the wires together and did not solder it. Could this be my problem?

...Ripped off the connector? I take it you did it as a shadetree repair? I'd put cash money down that the power going to the PCM are getting fouled due to resistance issues on the wiring. Have a diagnostic test done on the PCM, I'm thinking that with a 'broken' (and it still is broken, not a single continuous wire) positive line, you may have ground, but power just isn't getting there like it should.

Leading to possible PCM issues which would cause all sorts of issues with the car's electronic systems. Kinda like duct taping someone's spinal chord back together after a broken back.