Description

Instead of climbing up the rightward trending ramp, climb directly up the face to the small roof band, place a cam with a runner, and make the crux move up onto the face. Relatively easy climbing joins in with Kermit's Wad.

Protection

A cam under the terrace, and 6 draws for the route (+2 for the chains).

New FA info. This direct start was was top roped in 1982 by David Rubine right after the 1st ascent of the original lead. (see Kermit's Wad for new 1st ascent info.) He originally rated it 5.10a to the 1st bolt of Kermit's Wad.

#3 Camalot in the undercling slot is perfect. If you blow it pulling the bulge you probably won't deck, just really close to it. Definitely PG13 in that you have to run it out to the next bolt. But don't be scared! So much better than starting on the ramp. Makes Kermits Wad ****'s IMO.