Place cold water in a small bowl and sprinkle gelatin over it; let stand until hydrated or “bloomed,” about 10 minutes.

In the meantime, combine heavy cream, sugar, salt and vanilla in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on High (100 percent power) in 30-second intervals for 2 to 3 minutes, until hot and sugar has dissolved (heating in intervals ensures that the mixture doesn’t boil over). Stir after 2 minutes and continue heating if sugar has not fully dissolved. (Temperature should be about 180 F.)

Add bloomed gelatin to the warm mixture and stir until dissolved, about 1 or 2 minutes.

Place the sour cream in a mixing bowl. Whisk the warm mixture into the sour cream and then pour in the buttermilk. Zest half of the lemon skin right over top of the warm cream to catch the best flavor from the oils (save remaining lemon for another use, such as the Citrus-Berry Medley recipe, below).

Pour cream mixture through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large measuring cup.

Lightly oil or spray 8 to 10 ramekins or glass cups with cooking spray (if you use 4-ounce ramekins, you will have 10 servings). Divide mixture among the ramekins or cups. Cover with plastic wrap to keep a skin from forming. Chill until set, at least 4 hours.

Turn out onto a dessert plate and serve with a spoonful of Citrus-Berry Medley; or serve directly from glass cups or stemware, if using. If desired, garnish with a sprig of lemon verbena or mint.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Citrus-Berry Medley: Using a Microplane grater or zester, remove about 3/4 teaspoon zest from an orange, held directly over a bowl. Peel and segment 2 oranges and place the fruit into bowl with the zest. Squeeze any remaining juice from one of the orange membranes into the bowl. Cut 3/4 cup blueberries in half and add to bowl, along with 6 tablespoons honey, 1/2 teaspoon poppy seeds (optional), 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest and lemon juice to taste. Toss and marinate. Best if prepared while custard is setting, and refrigerated overnight so that flavors meld.

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