VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS

M.J.F. Stive

Abstract

The internal velocity and pressure fields of quasi-steady spilling breaking waves have been investigated experimentally. The internal flow fields are shown to be in qualitative agreement with a model proposed by Peregrine and Svendsen (1978). Furthermore a quantitative comparison is made with nonbreaking wave theories. Measurements of the pressure field are presented, and interpreted semi-quantitatively using the vertical momentum balance. Finally, it is shown how the integral properties can be obtained and analysed.