6 Suggested Answers

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Check under the stickers, sometimes screws are hidden under rubber feet, and stickers. If there is a sticker you can rub it with your finger and feel if a hole is under it. Just look at how the rest of the screws are. If you have taken out 5 in the corners and a sticker or a rubber pad is in the last corner chances are its under that one.
Also sometimes they use a rubber seal to create an air tight seal in the box. Sometimes this seal can be a little tacky and you need to pull on it a bit before it pops loose. If your sure there can be no more screws then it maybe stuck

If the screen is all white light then you can have a number of problems.
One could be a bad video board, the next could be a simple loose wire
from the video board to the back of the lcd screen OR a simple blown
fuse on the back of the actual lcd screen can cause the same thing.
Snaps are all sround these things and can be really stubborn at times.
Best to start the bottom first then work up each side to the top.
Something flat, thin and with a decent sharp edge on it will help. A
pocket knife held parallel to the joint between the front and rear
plastic works, you can also sharpen the edge of an old credit card with
a file (nail file works) This isn't as strong as a blade , but safer if
you slip !!
Fran

There are two ribbons holding the sections together. One is for the keyboard and one for the touchpad. They are hard work top get connected afterwards so expect some servere cursing .I found that asking my friend to do it with some forceps did the job admirably.

I also tried re-soldering joint L781 on the main power control board (see Solutions #2 and #7). It worked. My 15 inch Dell flat panel LCD is working again, white screen gone. The solder around the pin did looked different to to the other joints...a very slight gap around the pin as though it wasn't contacting properly. To locate L781, look at the bottom of the PCB (the side with the soldering) with the power plug socket at the edge closest to you. L781 is in the top left quadrant of the board, about 2 inches in from left, 1 inch down from the top. For good measure, I also tried the solution that suggested trimming a millimeter of the end of the two data ribbons that plug into the smaller control board, although I couldn't see anything wrong with the data ribbons. I did this at the same time as resoldering L781 so not sure if it made any difference.

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If you have split the wood then the screws will not go in no matter what you do because it will continue to split. You could always try placing another board behind it to strengthen it and drill into it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------opcom 2010

check the power cable of the drill is it a 2 prong or 3 prong plug? if it's a 2 prong it is an insulated power tool it is prone to emitt EMI (Electro Magnetic Interferance) becaus the casing is usually plastic, what could be done is check the carbon brushes inside the drill they could be worn and produce a lot of blue sparks, replace the brushes, if it's a 3 prong check for a faulty ground, with a faulty ground the metal casing of the drill is not shealding the EMI and could be deadly for the user in the event of a faulty live wire touching the casing

If all is well for the drill, contact a qualified electrician and ask for a EMI filter you could ave installed in the electric panel

Makita engineers are sneaky bastards that's why. There's a special tool required to take the front off and another compression tool to compress all the parts back together. You got to find your local Makita service center and have them do it. They make these Makitas like Hondas, because they want to keep all the money and don't want you monkeying around and fixing the parts yourself for cheap.

Hi there, Remove the battery and sometimes the screws on the drill casing are a torx instead of phillips so you will need a set of torx screwdrivers. Once you have removed the screws from the casing be very carefull when pulling the two casings apart, try to leave the chuck, motor and switch assembly in one half of the casing as it makes it much easier when trying to put it back together.

Hi there, the first thing you need to do is check the carbon brushes, there will be two of these one at each side of the motor, if these are ok then test if power is getting to the motor, to do this you will need to split the casing on the tool in half. You may need a torx driver to undo the screws on the casing. Once you have removed the screws, very carefully split the casing making sure you leave the gearbox assy, motor and switch in the other half. Insert battery onto the unit and get someone to hold the motor in place just incase the machine starts. get a voltmeter, follow the wires from the switch to the motor and where the wires attach to the motor put the probes of the voltmeter and pull the switch to engage it. You should be gettting a good voltage now, If you are then the switch is ok. hope this is of some help

Performance Power and Macallister spare part enquiries to Solent Tools 023 80578057 www.solenttools.co.uk. If they can't supply they will give honest advice on who can.
This address is correct:1 HampshireCorporate ParkChandlers EndEastleighHantsSO53 3YXBut it is not Performance Power Tools HQ it is B&Q customer support office and their telephone number is 023-8025-6256 but for technical support or spare parts it's 0845 300 2577

Your bearings in the Clutch have fallen out of place. Basically the tension screws pulling the clutch against the body.Have became loose. If you Tighten them most likely wont fix it.You should contact Makita. If you do open the drill. The Clutch assembly will be a task to reassemble. And the warranty might be voided.