Wednesday, November 17, 2010

If you stop at a barbecue joint or at a catfish shack in small towns across Texas, more than likely one of your dessert options will be pecan cobbler. Its appeal is wide yet you don’t see it often offered on larger city menus, which for me makes it all the more of a down-home dessert.

Now, you may be asking yourself, “What exactly is pecan cobbler?” I was wondering the same thing myself recently when a reader asked me for my best recipe. See, as much as my family loves its cobblers and our pecans, we’ve never served pecan cobbler. Nope, our pecan dessert of choice is a gooey custardy slice of pecan pie.

A little research was obviously in order. First, let’s talk about cobbler. When I think of cobbler I think of a filling, usually fruit, that has a crust on top. It can be a pie-like crust, a cake-like crust or a biscuit-like crust. But the key to a cobbler is that the crust and the filling intermingle usually with an equal ratio of crust to filling.

The majority of the pecan cobbler recipes I saw, however, had a pecan-pie filling on top of a piecrust. Perhaps I’m missing something, but I failed to see how this was any different from pecan pie, except perhaps that the cobbler was baked in a square baking pan instead of a pie pan.

My search continued. I then spoke to a friend who has eaten much pecan cobbler and he assured me that that those recipes appeared to be wrong—the crust should indeed be soft and fluffy, like a biscuit. After a little more digging, at last I discovered a recipe on Texas Monthly’s recipe swap. It was there that I found a woman who did make hers with a biscuit base and so I used that as a starting point for my adaptation.
As I’ve been finishing up my book, I’ve been reading many of my family’s letters. I came across one from my great-grandma where she talks about my grandpa making sorghum syrup with his father and brothers. While pecan cobbler wasn’t a dish my family made, in a nod to my heritage I decided to bake cobbler with sorghum syrup instead of the usual Karo syrup so often found in pecan pie.

Now, if you’ve never had the pleasure, sorghum syrup has a buttery, slightly burnt flavor that reminds me of caramel (or a bowl of Wheat Chex doused in honey, which was my favorite breakfast when I was in the 5th grade). It’s nowhere near as bittersweet and strong as molasses but sorghum syrup can be assertive. Paired with pecans, however, and the sorghum syrup brings out the best of this warm sweet nut—making the two together a natural team.

So how about that pecan cobbler? Well, when I tucked into my first (and yes, there was more than one) bowl I was reminded of pecan sticky buns or capirotada. And when topped with a sweet cool dollop of whipped cream, it was the ultimate in cold-weather comfort. Now, pecan cobbler won’t replace my love of pecan pie. But it doesn’t have to, as pecan cobbler is more than capable of standing alone. And, as always, small-town Texas barbecue joints and catfish shacks have done something right.

Method:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9x9-baking dish or a large cast-iron skillet.

Mix together the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder. Cut the butter into pieces and work it into the flour mixture with your hands or a pastry blender until it resembles pea-sized crumbs. Stir in the half and half, mixing until a bit loose and sticky. Pour dough out on a floured surface and knead for a minute. Roll until 1/8-inch thick and then press into the bottom of the baking dish or skillet.

To make the filling, mix together the eggs, half and half and brown sugar until well blended. Stir in the melted butter, sorghum syrup, cinnamon, sea salt and vanilla extract and stir until smooth and well blended. Place the pecans on top of the crust and then pour the filling over it. Bake uncovered for 40-45 minutes or until the custard is set. (Be sure not to overcook the cobbler, however, as it can become dry.)

Serve warm topped with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. And if you like the combination of sweet and salty, I highly recommend a light sprinkling of Maldon sea salt flakes on top as well.

Yield: 8 servings

Note: You can buy sorghum syrup at many farmers markets and specialty stores. If you choose, however, you can substitute in equal amounts Lyle’s Golden Syrup or Karo.

Oh my goodness! I know what's going to be on the dessert menu this week! We won't be doing Thanksgiving this year, (I'm in Oz, and Aussies just don't 'get it" so I seldom bother) but I do make myself a special dessert on the day! I do love me some pecans, and just found some the other day - grown in the USA!!!

Oh my, that's one delicious looking cobbler. I am already a cobbler fan, but sorghum syrup is a totally new, unknown ingredient. One more item for the shopping list this week, and a new dessert to add comfort during blustery weather.

I love that you do all this research for recipes and connect them to your heritage! I've never heard of a pecan cobbler but it looks ooey-gooey good. I wish I could ask my Texan grandmother what she knew about this dish.

Oh, lordy. How long has it been since I had pecan cobbler? I just finished up a big pan of sweet potato cobbler for my post this weekend, and now you've got me wanting to use up this big ol' bag of pecans to make another cobbler.

My Mama being a Southern "Peach" transplanted to Texas, I grew up on sorghum syrup. I'm surprised so many people have never heard of it. I buy Steen's in the yellow can just like Mama did...... Thank you for keeping the old traditions going.

Thank you, thank you! I fell in love with pecan cooler from that prideful Texas bbq joint, but have been dissatisfied with the recipes I've found as well. I agree Texas Monthly had the closest, but it was still off. Sorghum! So happy you took the time to crack the code on this one. I'm thinking a lilittle melted homemade vanilla ice cream will be my topper.

This is definitely a "must try". I grew up in the South and was almost an adult before I realized there was an "r" in sorghum (always heard it pronounced "sog'um"). There is nothing more wonderful on a winter Sunday morning than a hot buttered biscuit drizzled with sorghum syrup. I'll bet it's fantastic in this recipe.

yum, yum, yum....although I'm a native Texan too, I haven't heard of Pecan Cobbler...but I'm sure glad I have NOW! What's NOT to love. Sugar, Pecans, Sorghum....delicious! I'm going to the store this weekend to by some sorghum and make this heaven sent recipe! Thanks!

I just found my Thanksgiving dessert contribution for the family meal. This looks AMAZING! And I love the corn syrup alternative, although I'm sure sorghum's not any healthier sugar-content wise--but who cares; it's Thanksgiving! :) Thank you for exploring, discovering, experimenting, perfecting, and sharing!!!

Thanks for this! I like pecan pie but it's a bit too sweet for me, really. And I can't believe I have not tracked down sorghum syrup, although I've heard of it all my life. I do love molasses, so if it's better than that, I have to try some.

The squirrels have unfortunately looted my pecan trees again this year. They are available, though!

I learn so much from your blog! I'm a born-and-raised South Texan and I have neither heard of pecan cobbler nor have I ever tried sorghum. However, my mother, who is from West Virginia, was raised on sorghum and butter on her biscuits.

I've actually been looking for sorghum lately because my mother has been talking it up as a good maple syrup alternative, but have not been able to find it. I'll check Canino's here in Houston, since you mentioned farmer's markets. I'm thrilled to have a non-GMO alternative to Karo--maybe now I can enjoy pecan pie again. And that cobbler? You bet I'm going to try that, and soon!

Lisa - what is wrong with me and why have I never come across this before? You have to guide me to better Texas eateries my dear - I am clearly clueless. Love that you shared this - on my way to the store to get some sorghum...

I actually just had Pecan Cobbler at "Red, Hot, and Blue" the other night, for the first time (and I live in Texas!) It was quite good but missing something. I love the idea of the sorghum syrup instead of light corn syrup. I wonder if it's closer to using dark corn syrup? I have actually had sorghum syrup only a couple of times, and that would be at the "Hungry Mother" in Cambridge, Mass as they serve it with their cornbread. I liked the taste, though it was unlike anything that I had tasted before..a honey type consistency with a not too sweet taste...I suppose that I was thinking that it would be more like "Cane syrup" but it is a bit smokier isn't it?Can't wait to try this recipe and I will absolutely use my cast iron pan to do it!

If you are in the Houston area ever, come down to Alvin and try Joe's Barbecue's Buttermilk Pecan Cobbler.It combines two favorites...buttermilk and pecans.It isn't on the menu except at Thanksgiving, but you can buy one to take home.

This looks delicious. I remember having sorghum growing up in the Midwest...but I haven't even thought about it in decades. I've seen molasses in the store, but I don't recall seeing sorghum. Probably because I haven't been looking for it. I love peaches and I love pecan pie and I really like a good cobbler.Happy Thanksgiving.

I LOVE your site because of your creativity with recipes and the fact that I usually learn about a new method or ingredient from each of your postings! I had never heard of Sorghum before reading this post! Can't wait to try this recipe!

Lisa, you've once again taught me about my state's fare from afar. As you likely know, Dallas doesn't have many great barbecue joints, but on my next road trip, I'll be looking out for the pecan cobblers, for sure. I suck at making dessert, though, so I may have to wait to make the actual recipe ...

I recently moved to Seattle, WA from Texas and have been aching for all things pecan this fall season... so for Thanksgiving I made this dish and jumped out of complete giddiness at how WONDERFUL it is! Thanks for sharing! I loved it! The family I was with loved it! It was a HIT! and it successful satisfied the homesickness for a while.

Having grown up in Oklahoma and living in West Texas with pecan trees in the yard both places, I was surprised to have never heard of cobbler until we found it served at a Catfish place in East Texas. We love it! It is just a little different than pie and I wondered if it might have a cracker or oats in with the filling, but the puff might do it. The filling is thicker and clumps rather than just being smooth. The Sorghum could very easily be the difference in the taste. I could not decide what ingredient was different, that gave it a slightly smoky, not as sweet but very rich taste. I'm going to try this recipe I hope it is like the one they serve. The others I have found just didn't look right. My Dad would have loved this!

I made this yesterday to celebrate Texas Independence Day. Mine came out a little weird, but tasty. Most of the filling migrated to under the crust, while the pecans stayed on top.Could it be that I didn't put the crust all the way up the sides of the pan? The recipe said to put in in the bottom of the dish. I did put it together in the order you said: crust, nuts, filling. My husband is still grateful for a sticky pecan dessert, but I wondered if you had any wisdom to offer. Thanks.

I made this for the adult patrol at a recent Boy Scout camp. I baked it in a dutch oven, and it came out awesome. I had made it once at home first (in a regular oven) and my filling went under the crust like someone else commented. I also baked it too long so it was too dry. Having learned from that experience my dutch oven version came out perfect at camp. People were impressed that I did something more than a simple "dump" cobbler, and the flavor was amazing! Thanks for sharing the recipe.

Last year at a school reunion in Nashville I rediscovered sorgum molasses while having breakfast at the famed Loveless Motel. It was rich and addictive. Back in Houston I set out to find a quality sorgum similar to what I had had at Loveless. I found something very satisfactory at Whole Foods but it was quite expensive for only a small jar. I did find large and inexpensive jars of sorgum at Canino's market but the taste paled when compared to what I had in Nashville and had found at Whole Foods. My understanding is Revival Market buys from Texas sorgum farmers but it has a substantial mark up which I am not interested in paying. During my search last year a Texas sorgum producer told me his products are available in early to mid July. Aside from Canino's, Whole Foods and Revival Market, does anyone know where good rich quality but inexpensive sorgum can be bought in the Houston area, perhaps in the months ahead?