Cotton Delivers

Cotton Incorporated has developed a process to make super-water-repellent, breathable cotton fabrics that compete with leading branded waterproof products.

Janet Bealer Rodie, Assistant Editor

E ver striving to find ways to help cotton compete with performance-delivering man-made
fabrics, Cotton Incorporated has developed a process to make a highly water-repellent 100-percent
cotton fabric suitable for rainwear and outerwear without sacrificing the fiber's inherent
breathability and comfort.

"When it comes to finishing, cotton is the most reactive fiber available," said Dean Turner,
senior vice president, Global Product Marketing. He added that Cotton Incorporated markets its
developments to a wide range of companies. "We've broadened our reach beyond the mills to include
brands and retail products," he said.

An informal wear test comparing the comfort levels of a super-water-repellent cotton canvas
jacket and a leading branded waterproof laminated polyester jacket showed the cotton jacket to be
quieter and more comfortable.

Kristie J. Phillips, Ph.D., a textile chemist at the Cary, N.C.-based research and
development and marketing company, conducted the research on water repellency under the direction
of Vikki Martin, manager, Textile Chemistry Research, with funding from the Importer Support
Program of the Cotton Board. Phillips said the fabric must compete performancewise with a leading
branded waterproof laminated polyester product, and also be less expensive to produce. Therefore,
the fabric must be easily obtainable, and conventional manufacturing processes must be used.

Phillips treated a standard 10-ounce cotton canvas - which has a tight fabric construction
and is relatively stiff - with a fluorochemical water repellent, a resin to give wrinkle
resistance, and other chemical agents. She then softened it mechanically using Biancalani
equipment. When tested for water resistance after 10 home-laundry-tumble-dry cycles, the fabric
achieved the highest level for apparel, she said.

Phillips noted the treated canvas exhibits a much higher degree of air permeability than the
branded waterproof polyester product, and higher even than canvas with no finish applied. It also
transmits moisture vapor at a faster rate than both the polyester product and a standard cotton
twill fabric that also was treated and evaluated as part of the project. Laid flat to air-dry, the
treated canvas dries in approximately one-fifth the time as untreated canvas.

Cotton Incorporated had several jackets constructed from the treated canvas fabric, and
conducted an unofficial 30-minute wear test using volunteers in the laboratory to compare the
comfort level of the treated canvas jacket with that of a jacket made with the branded fabric.
Phillips said those wearing the cotton jackets cooled down faster than those wearing the branded
jackets. As well, she noted, the cotton jackets were "quiet," while the others were "crinkly."

"Another advantage of cotton is that no lining is necessary because cotton feels better next
to the skin," she added. "And, while the fabric does not meet the test for strict waterproofness,
it is super-water-repellent and as such is very suitable for everyday outerwear. The other fabric
really is overkill for everyday wear."