Need more visibility at the business end of your machine? Want to remove post mounted spotlights from above your plastics?

SlingSpotIMG_1278 (resized).jpg
Attach directly to slingshot switch bases and blast your lower playfield where it counts..The bit where you need to see the ball.
LEDs sit below the plastics, either side of each sling switch and above and below the slingshot rubber.IMG_1210 (resized).jpg

SlingSpot Slim
For many Bally/WMS and Data East machines that only have a half inch playfield hole for the sling switches. The narrower form factor can be manoeuvred into place through the small opening.slingNarrow (resized).PNG

Or positioned anywhere you want..
Surgical placement of GI reinforcement, right where you need it, and only where you need it.

The SniperIMG_1242 (resized).jpg
A three-LED tower that can go almost anywhere and face any direction. Kill your shadows, not your eyeballs.

IMG_1250 (resized).jpg

Built to last..

Industrial componentry
Not your average Chinese LED. These are top shelf CREE LEDs that can put through up to 50mA per colour channel.IMG_1244 (resized).jpg

AC/DC powered, polarity agnostic. Just plug the damned things into something and get going.

Schottky diode equipped bridge rectifiers get you all the voltage, all the time.IMG_1245 (resized).jpg

Colour temp adjustmentIMG_1239 (resized).jpg
You like it warm? Just turn the knob. Match your boost units to your current GI bulb preference in seconds. From ice cold through sunlight and into mellow yellow..no need for your reinforcement to look out of character.IMG_1215 (resized).jpg

Plug anywhere
I swore I would never do it, but you don’t seem to care, so for the first time ever on a redshiftLED product...drum roll...
Alligator clips!!! Yes, don’t worry about sparks or shorts or electrocuting yourself, just clip on to the nearest exposed bit of wire and see what happens! I’ve built so much capacity into these things that you could plug them into Three Mile Island and still win. Try to blow them up. I dare you.IMG_1282 (resized).jpg

These lights are built for one single purpose. To increase the amount of illumination on the ball so you can see IT. They shine SIDEWAYS. AT the ball. Not through the plastics, not onto your artwork, not onto your ramps and not into your eyes. Don’t expect to be able to see your machine from space, just expect to be able to see the ball from your head.
.

Now don't expect a big flood of light onto your artwork. These aren't shining that way. Here are some videos of me rolling the ball around with my hand on the playfield. Notice how the visibility of the ball picks up and how well lit my hand is.

You can even play the videos together!

Stock

With SlingSpot

Tron Stock..
Notice where the factory spotlights come in. You can see the border.

With SlingSpot..
Factory spots still on, but no light border on the PF

Here are pics in Iron Maiden showing a comparison of the ends of the cool - warm spectrum..
[quoted image][quoted image]

It’s perfect. Maiden needs warm whites in the center of the playfield, but I hated how it washed out the art on the sling plastics.... and there isn’t really good placement anywhere for spots! You da man!

I’m going to do other form factors. Because they can go anywhere, I just need to make sure that the LEDs can peep through a gap and get to the playfield.

Here are some SlingSpots being used to peek around playfield targets. I will do some shapes that get more LEDs around the outsides of targets, etc.EDCE0749-30F5-427D-9D41-3B8EFFF3FAB7 (resized).jpeg3FED5EB2-F9E7-4F21-A03B-15883FB974EA (resized).jpegA9BEDDDD-CD97-4E6D-9C70-5793F28C8DD9 (resized).jpeg16DD9F93-5D8C-428F-9C88-99975D20F034 (resized).jpeg521C2AAE-7588-461A-A25B-1E794162A927 (resized).jpeg774CE567-6870-4559-A12D-8D2CD369356C (resized).jpeg

Spike games don't need the capacitor obviously. I may or may not make Spike specific models without the cap. They will be a little cheaper. You also don't technically *need* the cap on other games that are hooked onto the AC GI, but it pumps the voltage by about 40%. My Tron is reading 7V DC out of the 6V AC source.

Please let me know when you’re ready to sell. I may need to buy a new apron dmd pcb also. Pretty sure I broke one
I do have a black apron to put it in though
I said it before, you make some of the very best stuff in pinball.
Apron dmd was well received at the pinball show. Walking dead with red / red was there.

I don't get everyone's chronic bad eyesight that makes them not able to see their games without adding more lights, but this is actually a non-annoying way to add some light. Much better than the alternative that's being compulsively marketed.

I don't get everyone's chronic bad eyesight that makes them not able to see their games without adding more lights, but this is actually a non-annoying way to add some light. Much better than the alternative that's being compulsively marketed.

Some of us like to play in the dark (or dimly lit room). Its much harder to see the ball (some games more than others).

Some of us like to play in the dark (or dimly lit room). Its much harder to see the ball (some games more than others).

In a dimly lit room, less light is needed to achieve contrast to see. Adding excessive light just on the PF in a black hole of a room just add eyestrain. Thats why high end home theater installations have bias lights behind the screen.

In a dimly lit room, less light is needed to achieve contrast to see. Adding excessive light just on the PF in a black hole of a room just add eyestrain. Thats why high end home theater installations have bias lights behind the screen.

This is not some crap that floods the pf. It is just like a regular bulb but allows implementation in the perfect spots where you want to remove shadows and increase visibility.

I am really looking forward to trying these out once available. Small ammounts of light cast in just the right spots is all that is ever needed on even the dimmest game, like TAF. Bonus that it is color temp selectable, does not wash out al, the art, and appears as easy to install as a regular spot light.

I love when someone addresses an actual problem at the right level rather than saying something is too dark and just flooding the crap out of it.

This is not some crap that floods the pf. It is just like a regular bulb but allows implementation in the perfect spots where you want to remove shadows and increase visibility.
I am really looking forward to trying these out once available. Small ammounts of light cast in just the right spots is all that is ever needed on even the dimmest game, like TAF. Bonus that it is color temp selectable, does not wash out al, the art, and appears as easy to install as a regular spot light.
I love when someone addresses an actual problem at the right level rather than saying something is too dark and just flooding the crap out of it.

AMEN Brother!!!! I can't wait to try these either, my BM66 is in dire need of these. One set at each slingshot, then 3 spread around the left G-A-D-G-E-T targets and 2 around the right TV targets.

I will happily be the guinea pig for my BM66 compatriots, and coming from timebandit we know that these are premium quality products with fantastic customer service!!!

This is not some crap that floods the pf. It is just like a regular bulb but allows implementation in the perfect spots where you want to remove shadows and increase visibility.
I am really looking forward to trying these out once available. Small ammounts of light cast in just the right spots is all that is ever needed on even the dimmest game, like TAF. Bonus that it is color temp selectable, does not wash out al, the art, and appears as easy to install as a regular spot light.
I love when someone addresses an actual problem at the right level rather than saying something is too dark and just flooding the crap out of it.

Hilton, read my first comment, I said this was actually a non-annoying way to add more light, unlike other options. The comment you responded to was about dark rooms, not the product.

In a dimly lit room, less light is needed to achieve contrast to see. Adding excessive light just on the PF in a black hole of a room just add eyestrain. Thats why high end home theater installations have bias lights behind the screen.

So adding more light to a dark area of the playfield (like bias lighting) makes things worse? Huh? The problem is that its usually really bright around the slings, then pretty dark in the middle of the playfield. These light up that area so there is less dark to light transition, similar to bias lighting. It doesnt make it even brighter than the areas around it.

So adding more light to a dark area of the playfield (like bias lighting) makes things worse? Huh? The problem is that its usually really bright around the slings, then pretty dark in the middle of the playfield. These light up that area so there is less dark to light transition, similar to bias lighting. It doesnt make it even brighter than the areas around it.

So I can buy some today?
Your web site is a tease with slingspots for aliens, but not for Jims!
Take my money, and probably a red dmd apron (unless you have black) and probably a replacement dmd for the one I broke. Will look further into why the row is out tomorrow!
Anxiously awaiting more of your neat stuff!

So I can buy some today?
Your web site is a tease with slingspots for aliens, but not for Jims!
Take my money, and probably a red dmd apron (unless you have black) and probably a replacement dmd for the one I broke. Will look further into why the row is out tomorrow!
Anxiously awaiting more of your neat stuff!

A couple more days. I’m just getting some final production process things in place. And my connectors have been delayed. I was expecting them Friday. Looks like they arrive tomorrow.
I only have the Stern ones ready to go. I’m still tweaking the WMS model for proper fit in the small holes. WMS will be a week or two.

Argh, my reflow oven shat itself over the weekend. Poor little guy was working way above his pay grade, lol. I am making one set at a time in limp mode here so will be able to dribble some out over this week, but full production will have to wait until next week when the new oven arrives.

WANT. If there's any marketing sense in this ridiculous industry, these should become an industry standard on every new game produced. I'll definitely be thinking of these and ways to place them when I'm designing my next one.

Here's a question. With a slingshot you have the hammer in between the two switches, but what if you want to use a few more elsewhere in other score switch holes behind rubbers? What's the best way to ensure the ball doesn't clobber them?

Here's a question. With a slingshot you have the hammer in between the two switches, but what if you want to use a few more elsewhere in other score switch holes behind rubbers? What's the best way to ensure the ball doesn't clobber them?

I'm testing places all around the playfield. Small standups like at ramp entrances aren't going to work because you will exactly snap them off. In other places I can't really seem to get the ball to go anywhere near them. I have generally been thinking about an optional back brace to prevent structural damage from possible impact, or a polycarbonate screen for the front, but am yet to feel a screaming need.

Hey there! Got a moment?

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