I was just wondering how you go about inserting spacers or something to keep my artwork away from the glass...

Holly Ryan, Souith Australia

There are several ways to create a space between the glass and your artwork.

The most common method is to use a mount surround on your artwork. Most times a single or double mount creates sufficient depth or space. This is all thhe space needed to frame needlework, pastels, photographs etc. If a deeper space or gap is needed then one or more mounts can also be used with fomecore fillers between the layers of the mounts. This is the best method for paper tole, ribbon embrodery, and framing memoribilia. .

Another method is to insert a thin piece of fomecore board cut to the depth you require, into the frame rebate between the glass the artwork. Usually 3mm fomecore board fits neatly under the rebate where it is not visible from the front of the frame. The fomecore strip is kept in place with double sided tape.

The third method is to use a premade extruded plastic spacer made from acid free inert materials. This can be be cut to the length of the frame side and then adhered with double sided tape to the inside of the frame. As the spacers are made from clear or opaque plastic and are thin enough to fit under the rebate of the frame lip, they are not visible from the front.

Making a 5 sided frame

Can you tell if it is possible to bend frame moulding? I need to make a frame with an arched top, to hold a special project. How do I go about making such a frame?

Picture frame moulding can not be steamed to be bent out of its original shape. A lot of frame moulding is made up of several pieces of timber all finger- jointed together, then milled into the finished shape. So bending the moulding would break these joins.
However we suggest that you make a 5 sided frame which will give you some shape to the top. The procedure to make the frame is .... Decide what width you would like the frame, then cut two side pieces "C" to make up the width. The mitres are at 60 degrees at the top and sides. Then determine the height "D" and cut these two lengths. The top mitre is 60 degrees and the bottom mitre cut at 45 degrees. Measure the space between the two sides and cut a bottom side to fit that space. We do not have a formula for this frame, but the method just described will work. You can make this frame using your Proman saw, the FrameCo Measureing System and Mitre Mate multi-angle gauge . The Mitre Trimmer can also be set up to cut the 60 degree cuts.

Deep sided moulding for object framing

Making a memory frame. I need some thing 4" deep to clear the object. I have heard of extension molding but do not know where to find it. Do you have any suggestions how to go about getting the material to make the frame.

Usually it is not necessary to find a special deep sided moulding to frame objects such a baseball hats, florals, jerseys, medals etc. You can use any frame with a standard recess by making a box to house the items to be framed. This box sits at the back, and the frame is cut to width and height of the box opening. The best way to make the "box" is out of fomecore...see our How To Note for more information. The box can be made any height and the inside covered with material, such a matboard, velvet, lined, silk, or painted a special colour. By using this method you do not have to hunt for special frames and you then have a much wider choice of frame styles to finish the project.

Framing Football Jerseys

I am the mother of two boys and would love to know how to frame their football jerseys for them. Are you able to help me with some easy to follow instructions, or do you have an online resource from which I can learn how this it is done.

We have a set of instructions on how to frame football jerseys, but the instructions presume you have all the tools necessary to make the frames. While we can supply you all the components ie moulding, various colours of matboard and the backing board, you will need a mat cutter, a strap clamp to hold the frame together and a v-nailer to join the frame. (v_nails are the staples we use to join the frames) All those tools will cost approx $300. The materials would cost approx $110 for each frame.However if you only want to make the two frames for the jerseys plus a few other frames for the boys, the $300 investment in the tools maybe not worthwhile.

Making Hardwood Frames

I have been looking at your products for sometime -- I have a lot of hardwoods (cherry / oak) that I am planning on turning into frames. Will your cutting and joing tools work well with hard wood?

Julie Halstead Philadelpgia USA

You will be able to make the frames from those hardwoods with the FrameCo tools. Here are some suggestions for the project.

1. Cutting really hard timber with a hand saw is ok..just slow as you will have to take your time sawing through the hard timber. Cutting with a power saw is faster but can present a few problems..but the FrameCo Mitre Trimmer can correct any miscuts to give you a fine tight joint. The wider the profile you are cutting the more the problems will show up especially in hardwoods. If you are milling the frames yourself then keep the frame width to a minimum.

2. For joining you will have to use a hardwood v-nail to join those timbers...that's no problem, but you will not be able to "push" the v-nail into the timber by hand pressure alone. You can tap the end of the PushMaster tool with a hammer, but the frame will need to be held securely. So the FrameCo Strap Clamp is essential for good joints, because it will hold the frame tightly whilst you insert the v-nail.

3. If you wish to make a number of the frames then invest in the BenchMaster to insert the v-nails. With the BenchMaster you are able to apply a more even pressure to insert the v-nail. This pushes the v-nail into the timber more easily, but also it is a more gentle action than hammering so there is less stress on the join.

Natural timbers make very attractive frames, but they do present a few more challengers than cutting and joining commercial picture frame moldings. Because the FrameCo tools require a little more care and time to operate, you do get a better job when tackling special projects.

Framing a Jigsaw Puzzle

Jigsaw puzzles can be framed with any style of frame. These can be framed with a protective layer of glass or acrylic.

An alternative to glass is to "Brush Mark" the surface with Texturing Cream. This makes the image appear like an original oil painting. It also seals the surface so glass is not necessary, and the cream penetrates around the edges of the pieces of the puzzle which helps keep them firmly in place. Here is the method we used to frame our jigsaw.

- First, the puzzle needs to be mounted/glued down so that the pieces do not move. Place a board over the completed jigsaw, and turn the whole picture upside down
- Spray the back of the puzzle with Spray Adhesive, then place a piece of fomecore onto the back and press onto the adhesive.
- Turn back, and the puzzle pieces are now glued into place.
- Brush the Texturing cream onto the surface, leaving brush strokes. Frame when the cream has dried. Glass or Acrylic is not necessary.

Memorabilia Framing

I have a some war medals I have been asked to frame. How can I do this?

Melissa Simmons, Aust

Memorabilia framing is always challenging as usually the pieces you need to frame are interesting shapes.

Baby foot and hand castings, war and sports medals, as well as signed photos and caps, etc. The list goes on. As always, please email or call one of our FrameCo team members with your question and we will be only too happy to help.

To frame medals thread the ribbon through a slit you make in the mountboard. Cut a mount, then using a piece of fome core as a spacer, assemble the mount.

If you cannot find the answer to your question click on the special FAQ "Answer Link" below and we will email you with suggestions and advice from our framing panel. This is a free service to all FrameCo visitors.
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