Description

The Prudential is a beautiful mostly overhanging cliff that is a little out of the way (meaning not crowded). Located west of the more popular (and populated) Waimea area. Though it's only about a 15 minute walk from Waimea it sees only a fraction of the traffic that it deserves.

The cliff faces south and many of the routes are steep and normally stay dry. These things make it a great winter crag, when the sun hits it on a cold winter day you would think it was still autumn. It should go without saying that it gets hot in the summer so plan accordingly.

There are some killer routes here including one of my favorite routes at Rumney, Stoned Temple Pilot (5.12a), this route and a few others at the crag feel a bit like climbs you would find at the Red River Gorge thanks to a band of honeycombed rock and the super overhanging nature of the climbing. Other faves include, The Premium (5.12c/d), Horned Behavior (5.12b), and Machine Head (5.11c/d). The mantel finish on Machine Head is worth the hike all on its own.

All "super classics" aside there are great sport climbs here from 5.10a to 5.12c/d. Even a few trad lines like Prudential Crack (5.8+), Wiggler Wants It (5.12a R) and the newer addition Losing Your Life and Living Through It 5.12c. The grades at Prudential tend to be solid "honest" grades, in other words you will have to earn what you send at any grade. So be prepared to work!

So next time you want to spice it up a bit, take a walk and check out this beautiful piece of schist. The routes are like nothing you've climbed at Rumney before and afterwards you will find yourself spraying to your friends about the sick routes you did without the noise and distraction of the everyday cliffs.

Getting There

There are a few ways to get to The Prudential. I'll start with tour of the west crags rt. this line will take you past a few other lower traffic areas that you will likely stop at on the way and never get to your destination, saying, "next time we will keep going and find the Prudential".

Starting at Waimea head down a trail at the far left (west) end of the cliff. Follow this down hill and around Triple Corners (there is a trail that links Blackjack boulders and Triple Corners that is more direct. You may want to take this instead of starting at Waimea.)Continue around Triple Corners over some boulders and start heading up hill again, steep at times. At one point you will accend a short but steep gully with a fixed rope in it. Up the hill you get to a large and awesome crag called The Hinterlands. Skirt the crag to the left and continue along the trail. You will see a good sized cliff as you hike under a large gully. This is Yellowknife Buttress (you will want to stop and climb every route on this georgous cliff but press on you are almost there. As you pass Yellowknife a little more scrambling will lead to The Prudential.

The cliff's right side is steep, this is the part that stays dry. The left side is split by a large ledge with a few trees on it. There are a few nice 5.10s on the left end of the ledge. Under the ledge there are a few climbs and direct sarts to the upper routes.

The other approch is to continue through the Black Jacks to its western edge and pick up a trail marked in parts with fallen small trees and sticks. This trail wanders through a less-steep but perhaps longer trail to the Northwest Territories crag. Hike up hill to the gully and turn right. The cliff on the right of the gully is the Prudential.

This is a quality, full value 5.12b (hard) that is often considered one of the best routes at the grade at Rumney. Be prepared to work hard right up to the heart breaker crux before the chains. Enjoy.Start just right of The Premium with your hands on a well chalked Ledge sort of thing. Throw a heel up and pull in to a lay back so you can stand on the small ledge. Work up the face above stemming then moving out right to a distant hold and a good slab rest. Continue up good holds and even a hand j...[more]Browse More Classics in NH