50 PARIS, DECEMBER 24 I T isn't everyone who would have the courage to do what ain- bocher has done: open a smart new establishment in the smart A venue Georges Cinq just at a time when everyone else is crawling into a corner to have a good cry about business de- pression. Not only that, but he did it with what might be called (in fact, I will call it) a bang. During the two sessions of the opening day, the doors of ch,ez Mainbocher were dark- ened by as good a collection of fashion- able people as Paris can assemble these days, and all of them in their very best emeralds. T HOSE who live on the Continent bought his black marocain evening dress that ties at the back with a big bow, wIth another back bow holding a sort of cowboy kerchief of the maro- cain in place. The kerchief reaches to the waistline in front. Those who were buying for America took a slinky dress of lace (one of those new Bauer laces, known as dentelle cordonnée be- cause of the' fine braiding that follows the lace design and makes the fabric stiff). This is No. 19, with a lace scarf that is attached at the centre- front with two flowers and has ends floating away back of the shoulders. You'll find it at Lord & Taylor in white, at Altman in black, at Bonwit Teller and Bergdorf Goodman in pinky-beige, and at Hollander in navy blue. Aside from these two, the third fa- vorite was a three-piece outfit of one of those soft Meyer woollens, in a mixture of brown and gray, with a scarf of pale chemisier silk. All Paris loves this one, because the undervest (not the bolero) is sleeveless. The result is a comfortably warm dress that isn't in the least cumbersome or obvious. (Hollander and Lord & Taylor liked it, too.) E very one of the models in the col- lection has a certain Mainbocher man- ner that is just a bit unlike anything else. You should really see yourself in JANUARY 3. I :3 1 ON AND OFF THE- A VE-NUE- FéMININé FASHIONS the robe de cinéma (at Bonwit Tel- ler), an evening dress of black satin, with a pink satin top, and a little sepa- rate jacket that can turn the whole thing into an afternoon dress. Look also at some short-waisted, long-legged white pajamas (also at Bonwit Teller) that have fascinating triple revers, and long panels at the front and back that conceal any trousery line. with sequins and paillettes. Perhaps you can receive this news with calm, but It makes me wonder what we're coming to. This idea of bringing beach clothes to town is all right now, but next year they may send us to tea parties in spangled shorts. One thing these elaborate hostess pajamas have already done is to take gold and silver slippers out of the night club and into the home. Perugia has almost every bit of his display space filled with little slippers that have open- air heels and toes; with sa- bots hand-carved from light- weight woods and covered with gold and silver; and with elaborate mules that are not meant so much for the hedroom as for your own din- ing-roum and your friends' cocktail parties. (Altman has some of the mules, in metal- lic gold, with lightning de- O NE pair of white dinner pajamas in the show was entirely covered ./ : "i: !b... ,. ' '. I ":-;;\.' ;:,:-. , "-. ;!:' . "," t : .: :n l " : :. .!m . . -..,, :,;'::, ---.--- -,------- ,, ì I'i 1 .- : . " ": :s :: --=-. - ':1 -'\ "I'm looking for some g-loves for a deaf lady who's going on a trip around the world." r: . -\ . "... '. '. : "." ".:.;.:." - I T _ : f : "'\>,1,\ . 'h..' \ :.' : [:: . :...:: \: ":'-. .: ' :. .... ." ",: . \ -:Ñ:: ',.: :." . , . '- . ... '.. \, . - f . , .:..,:":, . -, !,::: ) ":': '.:.: ". \f ,.-ÌNii:' " \\ /1\ "5: 1( J I\tt\ ,. "t-- -,' / :::c: . ":::)0 --.-. '. .;:-:- ':::. '. ;:;::::-j.: _-_.} _4:"" If ,: -(",,: ;:- +-',' Û'- -:': --. '. --::'t ; "1 - ".- . . .. .... ',- .' ,-'i ;' , . ," ; ... . .... '::::':':';:::-.':.: