Milan Fashion Week

Italians excel at creativity. They showed the world that there are many ways to wear a suit than with a tucked-in shirt and tie. They legalized going sockless. Italians always steal the limelight by simply being individualistic in an understated way. They are comfortable in their own skin; but may be too comfortable that they are reluctant to step into the future.

By Kulanthi Silva Photographs Kulanthi Silva and Akshita Garud

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“Fashion is not about looking back. It is always about looking forward,” said Anna Wintour once. Many media channels went on to report that Italy’s fashion scene lacks new blood and innovation. Some reported that Italy is feeling nostalgic. Many Designers during Milan Fashion Week 2014 – SS2015 showed reluctance to express anything new in their collection. Many labels such as Gucci, Max Mara, Etro and many more were in a 1970s state of mind. Is change really hard in Italy or is this misinterpreted? Could it be due to the compressed schedule of the Milan Fashion Week that new designers like Arthur Arbesser and Angelos Bratis went unnoticed by International Media?

Milan Fashion Week 2014 – SS2015 was compressed. Legendary fashion designers like Giorgio Armani too advanced his show from traditionally presenting it on the very last day, to avoid influential editors leaving for the Paris show on the last day of the Milan show and eventually missing his show. Milan Fashion Week used to span across six days instead of five.

Many Labels Such As Gucci, Max Mara, Etro And Many More Were In A 1970s State Of Mind

It is reported that Italy is facing its third financial downturn since 2008, according to the Organisation for Economic Corporation and Development. Italy, the third largest economy in Europe has shrunk by 0.4 percent in 2014. It was further proved when the Prada group, which also owns Miu Miu, Church’s and Carshoe, admitted to have encountered a drop in net profits of 20.6 percent in the first half of the year. The company is also listed in the Hong Kong stock exchange since 2011 and the shares fell 1.3 percent to their lowest in two years. Prada’s collection will be sold in 65 stores against 80 stores planned in order to protect margins in a cost-effective way.

When fashion giants and pride of Italian Fashion like Prada announces these worrying statements, it leads to the disheartenment of other designers.

Donatella Versace Too Presented A Compelling Collection This Time And Claimed To Have Not Looked At The Archive

Despite the downturn, Prada presented a powerful, yet commercially successful collection for Spring and Summer 2015. A-line coats with three-quarter sleeves and belted coatdresses were given more prominence. Donatella Versace too presented a compelling collection this time and claimed to have not looked at the archive. She went on to say that she wanted to create an easy wardrobe for women. The collection surprisingly turned out to be playful and upbeat with an edge. Donatella offered a modernist, colour-blocked, crystal mesh take on cocktail dresses turned suits. Angela Missoni’s collection for Missoni was all about Summer, happiness and lightness. The collection was indeed romantic and weightless. Missoni models walked the ramp wearing printed silk turbans or scarves around their low set hair buns. Light layered cardigans, sweaters and oversized men’s shirts worn by the models showed how elegantly carefree a woman can be. Missoni presented yet another colourful collection. Angela Missoni’s ankle-wrap platform sandals stole the show. Jeremy Scott, Creative Director of Moschino has moved on from comparing fashion to fast food to be inspired by Barbie this season. A model dressed exactly the same as the plastic Barbie doll gifted to audience members opened the show. There was a businesswoman Barbie, dressed in an embellished pink suit, work out Barbie, in a pink sports tracksuit and cowgirl Barbie in glitzy rodeo attire. Frida Giannini gathered the best bits of the Gucci’s past and gave the latest collection a contemporary spin. Gold bullion embroidery on the bandleader jackets, multicolour Mongolian lamb on boleros and vests, sailor-style jeans, denim blue jump suits with contrasting yellow stitching and A-line suede skirts were shown on the Gucci runaway. Max Mara played it safe with willowy silhouettes, mid-calf-length skirts accessorised with knee high boots and rain hats. Every shade of blue along with white and gray ruled Giorgio Armani’s show for Emporio Armani. He presented cropped, hip-slung pants, pleated pants and many more. Veronica Etro presented yet another bohemian inspired collection for Etro. The collection was all about light textures and dense embroideries. There were textured vests, billowing skirts and ponchos shown on the runaway.

Italy should be thankful, appreciative and protective of this national treasure. Fashion is something Italians are naturally good at and they should keep it that way. They should go back to the era where they were brave enough to be uniquely liberated. Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion) should support the designers to push boundaries under no influence, open space for new designers to walk in and nurture them instead of penalising.

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