Warning: Do this reset at your own risk!I take no responsibility to what happends to your tv!
it worked for me and many other Kuro users and should work for others with the similar aging problems (red tinted poor blacks)

Note: if your Kuro have replaced parts such as the Digital Assy board you can get into trouble after the reset!
you must be sure that the new Assy Board have the data from the panels sensor backup.

if your Kuro only has original parts and nothing is replaced you should be safe.
Purpose of a Reset:
To get rid of the Red Tinted blacks and to get back the real Kuro Blacklevel.

i Bought my first LX5090 Kuro 2 months ago and the blacklevel was really bad at 0.0145fL
and it also had the red tint to it.
Now after the reset and some other tweaks the blacklevel is unmeasurable with a Xrite i1 Display Pro colormeter.
that means that the blacklevel is now under 0.00058fL
the ANSI contrast ratio is three to four times as high as it was before the reset.

What you need:
Get controlcal and activate it after registrationwww.controlcal.com
you must register for the "Kuro Tv Special Profile" to be able to get into the service menu

Pioneer 8G 9G Kuro Reset Guide
(8Gs will look different in the Servicemenu
this is from a 9G Kuro)

1: Start controlcal and Tick AUTO SEND and untick ERROR DIALOGS

2: Open the kuro tv special profile and press SM ON

3: Quit controlcal
you should now see an error on the tv screen but you are still in the service menu

4: Start controlcal again

5: Untick HEX input

6: Now you can start to send the reset commands.

You need to look at the tv when you have sent a command to see that the command is showing up on the tv.
you should get one error from these when you send it.
i cant remember which now.
write down the one/ones that gets an Error.

2nd Page down
History of the last 8 Power Downs
(this list was full after i had adjusted the voltage regulators so one more reset was needed to clean it up )

3rd Page down
History of the last 8 Shut Downs

4th Page down
Press Enter here to get into the Voltages

inside PANEL -1 ADJ (+)
VOL SUS first voltage setting in the list
To change the setting of the current voltage use left or right arrow keys on the remote
Down arrow to get to the next voltage

Adjustments to some voltages after the reset may be needed if you experience artifacts in the picture or if you want to lower MLL even more.
the ones that should be adjusted inside the adjustment ranges from the servicemanual is these.
VOL SUS
YKNOFS1D
YKNOFS3D
YKNOFS4 D

Adjustment Ranges for the European LX5090 non "H":

Adjustment Ranges for the KRP 500m:

YKNOFS3D and YKNOFS4D must be adjusted at the same amount/distance between them up or down inside the adjustment range.
lower both will lower the blacks.
(to get out from PANEL -1 ADJ (+) hold ENTER on the remote)

When you are done with the Voltage Tweaks DO ANOTHER RESET and then leave the voltages!

/Cred to Stu03 for the workflow for the Reset.
/ Cred to wxman for testing and tips

Test: How Black is your Kuro? To get even lower blacks after the reset you dont need any expencive colormeter to measure them,just use your eyes for this test.
(Note: The 111 Elites will not go as low as the KRPs or the LX5090)

you need to put up a 5% white window to see the glow/light at the black parts of the screen.
you will not see it with a 10% window.

your eyes are far more sensitive to light in a complete dark room
you will see even the slightest glow if you wait long enough
so thats why this is perfect
everyone can do it

put up the 5% white window (found in \MP4-2c\ChromaPure Windows\5% Grayscale)
use a complete dark room
you can not have any light at all except for the 5% window.
wait for a few minutes so your eyes get used to the dark

what you see now at the black parts of the screen is probably a low uneven glow with some blotches.

put up the service menu and Lower YKNOFS3D and YKNOFS4D (same amount) some
do the test again.
when you only see the 5% window and nothing more you are done.

if you lower YKNOFS3D and YKNOFS4D to much you will get artifacts/black rain in the picture.

Note:
To compensate for the lower black level(details near black) when lowering YKNOFS3D and YKNOFS4D
you can raise the brightness setting from 0 to +1
if you now go back you can still see that you have those great blacks with with 5% window but you will have a much better black level if you watch the "black clipping" MP4 file.
flashing up to the "20" point.

or you can just leave the brightness setting at 0 default
what happends is that you will get a higher gamma around IRE 10 (10% black)
most of the time a higher gamma near black looks better even if you lose some details.
just try and see what looks best.

if you still see a glow with low APL scenes in a pitch dark room its probably because you have a white wall reflecting light from the wall to the display.
Solution: paint the wall black

The Only downside with these lower Blacks is that you will see some "black rain" as seen in the picture
but thats only when you entering the menu or if you change aspect ratio from 2.35:1 to 16:9
it will not appear with regular viewing.

After the reset you should calibrate the tv with the ISFccc profiles to get the most out of your Kuro.
every Kuro should have a flat gamma curve at 2.3
with the ISFccc profiles and 9 point IRE settings you can have it.

you want to know if your kuro can reach the Standard Kuro 9G blacks around 0.002Y (cd/m2) or 0.00058fL but you dont have any colormeter to measure it.
now you have a reference picture that glows exactly at 0.002Y
i have measured it with the Xrite i1 Display Pro (its the lowest brightness level it can measure)

Copy the picture to the phone and open it with the standard gallery
set brightness on the phone to Lowest and use Screen mode Standard.
watch the picture in the landscape mode.

the highest glow(on the right side) in the picture is 0.002Y (cd/m2)
put up the 5% white window on your Kuro in a complete dark room and compare the blacks on the kuro with the glow on the phone.
is your Kuro darker or is it worse?

if you dont se any glow at all on the phone it means that your kuro has so bad blacks so the light output from the screen takes over the small light from the phone.
if that happends you are up around 0.05Y or higher for the blacks on the Kuro.

pg_ice

01-08-2014 01:16 AM

Some first impressions from members who have done the reset:

9G Kuros:

makaveddie81: My KURO has never looked this good, I can't tell the bezel and screen apart on an all black field!

VidPro: "All I can say is OMG. I used Stuo3s numbers. All I can say is OLED what? Really it's amazing....I need to keep watching. I'm not sure I believe what I see".

Shawn1: "the black level is insanely deep and inky, almost OLED-level. No lie. In fact, the black level now seems deeper than when I first bought the set new almost 5 years ago.
The reset is the most important thing I've done for my 500M. The elevated black level made me feel like I had an LCD. Now it almost feels like I have an OLED."

Andrno: Swedish "gjorde en ny fullständig reset i natt och nu lyckades jag faktiskt få tvn att försvinna i mörkret även vid visning av 5% fönstret "
English "did a new complete reset tonight and i manage to get the tv to disappear in the dark even with a 5% window running"

8G Kuros:

Zimbalo:Two days ago I performed a full reset, according to the guide. No magenta misfires, no black rain, everything OK. No change voltage settings.
I measured Black with the same probe (i1DisplayPro).
This is the result: Y in 0 IRE 0.005 cd/m2
I am very happy!

Playdrv4me

01-08-2014 08:53 AM

I only made it to about page 22 in the last thread, but if I recall correctly, D-Nice said that resetting the panel aging like this would have ramifications later on. Is that still the case or was that determined to be a non issue by now? Or is it just something where everyone is like "Well, by the time it becomes an issue I will have moved on to another TV" type of thing.

pg_ice

01-08-2014 09:22 AM

The reset will hold for about 2 years according to another person that did the reset.
But it all depends on what voltages you set after the reset.
Maybe that person had some of them set wrong from the beginning.
You can get the red tint to show up again after the reset with a few adjustments to some voltages.

If you ask me i think it will hold for more than 2 years if you set the voltages to the recomended settings after the reset.
the tolerance with the recomended voltage settings is to big to get any red tinted blacks in the near future.

Enjoy your kuro now today and do another reset if and when the red tint comes back.
Thats my suggestion.

Playdrv4me

01-08-2014 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pg_ice

The reset will hold for about 2 years according to another person that did the reset.
But it all depends on what voltages you set after the reset.
Maybe that person had some of them set wrong from the beginning.
You can get the red tint to show up again after the reset with a few adjustments to some voltages.

If you ask me i think it will hold for more than 2 years if you set the voltages to the recomended settings after the reset.

Enjoy your kuro now today and do another reset if and when the red tint comes back.
Thats my suggestion.

Thank you for posting the valuable info in a concise manner, that's a lot of work to have come this far with this.

I don't (as far as I can tell) need to worry about it yet, but I'm glad this is out there should it ever crop up.

Stu03

01-09-2014 05:07 AM

Hi pg ice.

Hope you don't mind me giving a couple of suggestions for 'your' guide considering a lot of these adjustments were my suggestions between yourself and i originally through pm's and emails originally basically regarding the voltages lets not forget.

Also seeing the tint hasn't returned or any visible artefacts on my previous, once afflicted (within 200hrs) Kuro in (1400 hrs), i must be doing something right.

Anyway... Could i suggest for the guide that because the KRP's are set up and behave/driven differently - that YKNOFSAD seems to react differently compared most of the other models post reset. These (almost always) need to have YKNOFSAD raised after re-setting.

It seems to be a hit or a miss with other models and it depends on how much ageing has gone by over the years with these also.

I don't know/can't remember if this is the case with the 101 and 141 (although practically identical to the KRP's), perhaps someone with experience with one or both of these after resetting could chip in with YKNOFSA D behaviour if possible to add to this guide.

If i could also suggest that we have - separate - settings guides for different models (and) sizes should anyone else like to participate...

And could i ask pg_ice where and how you came to the conclusion that the LX's go darker than the 111 or 151 Elites ?. It the first i have heard of this...

Shawn1

01-09-2014 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu03

Could i suggest for the guide that because the KRP's are set up and behave/driven differently - that YKNOFSAD seems to react differently compared most of the other models post reset. These (almost always) need to have YKNOFSAD raised after re-setting.

After reading this updated guide yesterday, I immediately hooked up my laptop to my KRP-500M and lowered YKNOFSAD from the previously suggested setting of 148 back down to the factory default of 128. Do you think it would be a good idea for me to raise it back up to 148?

pg_ice

01-09-2014 09:12 AM

Guide updated
write down the running hours and the model you do the reset on and post them here when you are done if you want to.

thats right Stu03
most of the voltage settings came from your suggestions so thanks for that

My LX5090 is way under 0.00058fL now.
with 0.00058fL you will still get some glow in low apl scenes.
i cant see any glow on mine.
if its normal or just luck that i can go that low i dont know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu03

If i could also suggest that we have - separate - settings guides for different models (and) sizes should anyone else like to participate...

yes but to do that you need some new values to build the new guides on.
do you have them also?
i dont have them.
thats why i think its better to have the same start settings for everyone,and then compare the end result for different models to see if they differs that much.
i think it more depends on the aging of the panel what settings you end up with after the reset.

pg_ice

01-09-2014 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn1

After reading this updated guide yesterday, I immediately hooked up my laptop to my KRP-500M and lowered YKNOFSAD from the previously suggested setting of 148 back down to the factory default of 128. Do you think it would be a good idea for me to raise it back up to 148?

if you dont have any other problems 128 is a more neutral setting than 148.
you will raise the blacklevel if you raise YKNOFSAD to much

im pretty sure that you will lower the voltage tolerance if YKNOFSAD is set to high.

lets say that you have a tolerance value at 0 to +-100
you want to set a voltage close to 0 not at + or -100

i believe that 128 is the 0 value for most settings
and it seems to be even more important to set YKNOFSAD at 128 as that value changes several other values.

After reading this updated guide yesterday, I immediately hooked up my laptop to my KRP-500M and lowered YKNOFSAD from the previously suggested setting of 148 back down to the factory default of 128. Do you think it would be a good idea for me to raise it back up to 148?

Hi Shawn,

After resets the electronics believe the panel is new, although of course it isn't. The phosphors have aged thousands of hours. Why artefacts are visible afterwards.

The reset voltages are mostly too low, perhaps with the exception of YKNOFS1D, and VOL SUS- because these numbers were for a new panel/module with brand new phosphors.

So things need to be raised to compensate for the previous ageing. 128 or lower on the KRP's will be too low and cause issues not too long into the future. As there Isn't enough to drive them ane cause misfiring specificaly on moving images.

This was the case on my last KRP, which had nearly 11,000 hrs on just before the first reset. And plenty others soken to on AVS and AV forums... The best way to adjust this voltagge/voltages is put on something on screen like broadcast TV for example - then put the factory menu up on screen too at the voltages pages. Sit very close to the screen with the menus up with broadcast tv on in the backround of the menu and look closely for misfiring on (moving images) (around the edges of moving people for example)... If there is raise the FSA D voltage five clicks at a time - press enter on the remote - look closely again - and if it's gone this voltage/voltages is high enough. Keep doing it until its gone. The lower the number the better as it's a case of just enough and no more or no less.

FSA D... should be imo, the first voltage to adjust after reset - followed bu VOL SUS on an all white signal... Followed by a tweak of FS3D...And finally YKNOFS1D, which i believe is the first reset sub field.

As i'm sure everybody understands a good look (before) touching any voltages whatsoever post reset should be the order of the day

pg_ice

01-09-2014 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu03

So things need to be raised to compensate for the previous ageing. 128 or lower on the KRP's will be too low and cause issues not too long into the future. As there Isn't enough to drive them ane cause misfiring specificaly on moving images.

before i did the reset i only lowered YKNOFSAD from 128 to 090
i had 19k hours on mine
i got back the great blacks again.

now after the reset i get the same deep blacks with YKNOFSAD at 128 as i had before the reset at 090.
so the reset itself compensates some so you will get the best performance around the default values again.

everyone needs to test their own kuros after the reset.

Stu03

01-09-2014 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pg_ice

before i did the reset i only lowered YKNOFSAD from 128 to 090
i had 19k hours on mine
i got back the great blacks again.

now after the reset i get the same deep blacks with YKNOFSAD at 128 as i had before the reset at 090.
so the reset itself compensates some so you will get the best performance around the default values again.

everyone needs to test their own kuros after the reset.

Yes because you reset the pulse meter and all the other counts/algorithms back to zero.

It will settle in to a certain extent, but again because it's not new anymore (the phosphors) it will still need to be driven slightly higher to compensate for this ageing.

KRP's operate slightly differently also. But i'm just going by my own experiences and a few otgers with KRP's.

But the core principles remain over all models.

But agreed pg_ice - people need to test their own Kuro's after reset and make adjustments to suit there own previous ageing (artefacts).

As with color calibration, no two identical settings will suit, again because of various previous ageing. And due mostly to varying panel/perfomance charateristics etc just like it would have been the day they were manufactured.

Also every one or two hundred hours it would be a good idea to run through the Pioneers own internal test patterns to see whats what

128 or lower on the KRP's will be too low and cause issues not too long into the future. As there Isn't enough to drive them ane cause misfiring specificaly on moving images.

That's all I need to know, I guess. Thanks. I adjusted YKNOFSAD back up to 148 (from factory default of 128). I didn't seem to notice any artifacts on moving images, whether I had YKNOFSAD on 128, 148 or anywhere in-between. I think I'll just follow your advice and leave it at 148.

Stu03

01-09-2014 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn1

That's all I need to know, I guess. Thanks. I adjusted YKNOFSAD back up to 148 (from factory default of 128). I didn't seem to notice any artifacts on moving images, whether I had YKNOFSAD on 128, 148 or anywhere in-between. I think I'll just follow your advice and leave it at 148.

:facepalm:

I nearly forgot to say before... If there is no rise in black level whatsoever - 148 is/should be good... Because it controls a couple of the others also, there is a fine line between being over driven... And being under driven (lagging, black issues etc). But if all is well it's a good number to leave there

pg_ice

01-09-2014 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn1

Thanks. I adjusted YKNOFSAD back up to 148 (from factory default of 128). I didn't seem to notice any artifacts on moving images, whether I had YKNOFSAD on 128, 148 or anywhere in-between. I think I'll just follow your advice and leave it at 148.

have you done the black test with a 5% white window?
you have just raised the blacklevel again with YKNOFSAD at 148
just do the test and you will see the difference yourself.

im waiting for new users to do the reset
i hope that everyone that do the reset from this guide posts a comment after.
interesting to hear from more kuro users.

ShockFett

01-09-2014 09:35 PM

I am very tempted to do this on my 141.

With controllcal can I do more then one panel?

On the guid is there a chance you can post pics of each screen shot of the sm next to the step?

Anyone know the voltage setting for the 141?

Do I have to do a complete reset to make this work or can I just adjust the volts?

Thank you guys for being patient. As you all know these are our babies. So I'm taking baby steps and asking questions so she still works when I'm done!

pg_ice

01-09-2014 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

Anyone know the voltage setting for the 141?

they should be the same but if you want to know you can check every one of them and write down the settings you have.

the ones you can write down is these
(they are all under the PANEL -1 ADJ (+) )

i have asked turbe if i can add the isf profiles to other kuros or if im locked to mine.
i have not got an answer yet.
but for rest to write commands and to get into the SM it must work with more than one kuro.
if not the program will be expencive in the long run.

we have three LX5090s for sale here in sweden for about 1000$ each
we also have one White KRP 500AW for 1200$
im thinking of buying two of them and fix them the way i have fixed mine.
i dont want to pay turbe 50$ for each kuro to get controlcal working

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

On the guid is there a chance you can post pics of each screen shot of the sm next to the step?

yes i can but its not important to have pics of the sm if you follow the steps.
if you get lost in the sm just press SM OFF from controlcal and start again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

Do I have to do a complete reset to make this work or can I just adjust the volts?

the reset itself only take 30 seconds if you write the commands fast enough so i dont see why you dont want to do it.
see it as a re calibration of the tvs voltage settings.
you get them back to where they should be.

ShockFett

01-09-2014 10:24 PM

Ok thank you.

So the volts actually change as the hours increase? So by a reset they go back to hour 0? If so, I understand why the need for a reset.

pg_ice

01-09-2014 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

Ok thank you.
So the volts actually change as the hours increase? .

no the dont so therefore it is not necessary to write them down.
the voltages in the menu doesnt change over time
its the meters that drives them that changes.

the reset resets the meters not the voltages.

but you can still write down the voltage settings for your elite
it should be interesting to see how much they differ from other kuros.

Edit:
my bad
it seemed from my previous post that the voltages changes after the reset but they dont.
you can write them down even after the reset
they are still the same.
corrected

pg_ice

01-09-2014 10:48 PM

one more thing ShockFett

the other purpose for writing down the voltage settings "before" you change them is to know what the stock settings where.
thats why it should be interesting to see if the elite voltages is different to the other 9g kuros.
IF the stock voltages differ to much then the NEW recomended voltage settings can be wrong for the Elites after the reset.

so do that
if you are going to do the resetwrite down your voltage settings and post them here before you do the reset.
then we can decide if the recomended settings will work or not.

i hope you get it
its late here in sweden and i have worked graveyard shift

i believe Stu03 will correct some here when he wakes up..in a few hours

MitchPope

01-09-2014 10:57 PM

I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.

These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:

the other purpose for writing down the voltage settings "before" you change them is to know what the stock settings where.
thats why it should be interesting to see if the elite voltages is different to the other 9g kuros.
IF the stock voltages differ to much then the NEW recomended voltage settings can be wrong for the Elites after the reset.

so do that
if you are going to do the resetwrite down your voltage settings and post them here before you do the reset.
then we can decide if the recomended settings will work or not.

i hope you get it
its late here in sweden and i have worked graveyard shift

i believe Stu03 will correct some here when he wakes up..in a few hours

Absolutely brother! Baby steps actually baby crawls lol! Thank you so much for taking time to help me, appreciate it. I love my kuros and don't want to destroy them.

The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.
Also can you adjust back some to stop the "black rain"? Does it effect anything else?

pg_ice

01-09-2014 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MitchPope

I would like to do a reset to my 101, but I can't get my panel to connect with Hyperterminal. I have ControlCal, but it won't let me uncheck HEX input. I have been able to get KuroControl to work, but I only get text strings as a response, not sure how to display it on screen.

These are what my current values are for reference, it has about 9625 hours:

read the guide again
you must quit controlcal and start again without any profile loaded
then you can untick HEX input
you cant untick HEX input if you have a profile open such as the tv special profile.

ok thats interesting
i can see right now that some of them differs alot compared to my 5090
the ones that differ most is VOL RST P and VOL OFFSET.
but you dont change those after the reset so they should not affect anything.

i leave it to Stu03 to answer the questions about the stock settings for the Elites.
check with him later.

pg_ice

01-09-2014 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

Also can you adjust back some to stop the "black rain"? Does it effect anything else?

yes
just raise YKNOFSAD or YKNOFS1D (see wxmans post and his settings compared to the recomended settings)
i think he had some other issues with black blotches and black lag thats why he was forced to raise those values more.
i dont think the "black rain" was the main problem for him

the black rain is not affecting anything else except for entering the menus and when you change display ratio.
i have them also but they also brings down the blacks to the floor or more right to the basement so they stay.
thats the trade off

pg_ice

01-09-2014 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShockFett

The straight rs323 cable. From what I understand it's the same cable from old monitor pc connection? I have several old ones here.

no thats VGA cables
rs232 looks almost the same but its not the same cable.