Winter 2014 | The 'Patience Time' on Nanga Parbat

Emilio Previtali tweeted at around sunset this evening: “Tomasz (Mackiewicz) here in BC right now, in our tent. Pawel (is) already in Polish BC. All the mountaineers are safe in BC now.” Considering the forecast of adverse conditions, Schell route climbers were expected to return to Base Camp by Wednesday evening, but on one stage Poles were thinking otherwise. On Diamir side, Daniele Nardi has started working on acclimatization. Meanwhile the progress continues on Noshaq.

Simone and David
Continuing from C2 (6100m), Simone Moro and David Gottler established C3 at around 6700~6800m on January 28th. The route was in tough condition due to hard ice, as the duo fixed around 400m ropes in difficult sections. After an extremely cold night in Camp 3, they continued the upward journey next day, and reached at altitude of around 7000m. They turned back from there, due to forecast of bad weather. By the evening, Simone and David were in Base Camp (at 3600m), “we went down like a skyrocket”.

Simone and David couldn’t have a look at Diamir side, as they followed the Schell route variant which traverses to opposite face well above 7000m.

Spending a cold night in C3; Photo: David Gottler

The Polish Team
The Polish Team’s progress above C2 wasn't rapid. On 28th, Tomek, who had minor health issues at the start of climb, went up with Pawel and Michal. They established C2-A at 6200m. Tomek and Pawel spent the night there. Michal descended to C2 and continued down to BC on January 29th. Meanwhile Jacek Teler also went up to C2.

However, the situation became a little stressing when Polish website forumextremum.pl published an interview of Tomek (who was in C2-A, then).

"- We are in camp at 6200m asl. We set it on the little shelf by rocks.- The plan is that Pawel Dunaj wants to push up to 7000. There on, climb to the other side of ridge and see how the mountain on Diamir side is."

When asked about the upcoming bad weather (wind in excess of 100 km/h, And heavy snowfall) Tomasz Mackiewicz explains that

"- According to the forecasts, the big deterioration will take place on Sunday, Feb 2nd.- By that time we would be at 7000 and would have excavated a decent cave."

Then what?

"- We are planning to wait out in the bad weather.- And then, if everything is in order, try to hit the top. We'll see how the situation develops."

The Polish climbers apparently wanted to earn a summit-push chance, at the cost of spending several bad weather days in snow cave, at around 7000m. But the conditions didn't let Tomek and Pawel go up, today. Pawel was first to change the decision and start the descent. Tomek also followed him, soon.

Simone Moro; Photo: David

Daniele Nardi
Daniele reached the Base Camp on 28th, after a difficult final day trek through fresh snow. After setting up the tent, he started the acclimatization by skiing towards a ridge that leads to Ganalo Peak (6608m). Due to recent snow, Nanga Parbat is in dangerous condition and is continuously releasing snow and ice avalanches. “I'll have to wait and be patient. Nevertheless I feel in great shape and full of enthusiasm ... However without excitement, anything great has never been accomplished!” wrote the solo climber.

Noshaq
The latest update from Polish/Russian Noshaq team dates back to January 27th, when they were in C2 (5500m), hoping to reach C3 next day.

Chashkin(s) Attempt
Pakistani Team led by Qudrat Ali couldn’t launch the Chashkin peaks climb due to continuous snow. They spent three to four days at Base Camp, without any respite in heavy snow - eventually deciding to return home.

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