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I had one recently where all components were tested good and power was present but h2o did not heat. Turned out the 120 volt neutral between the hwt and the electrical panel had a poor connection. Electrician traced it out and all is well now.

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And, of course, if the installer dry fired it then you can count on replacing the upper element and that would solve things.
Checking continuity of the element is not a sure way of determining its status. It could be faulty and still show "beep" if you are using the audible setting on your meter. The best way is to unplug the heater, disconnect one of the leads to the element, plug the heater back in and check for voltage from each screw on the element to ground (the tank). It should be 120 to each if the element is good. Be careful! That loose lead is HOT!