This guy does really good with explaining the process he uses making frames.

I was going to post these same links. I like the way he uses stop blocks on his radial arm saw for many of his cuts. His jigs are something I would like to use also. He has a pdf you can buy on amazon that shows how he makes all his stuff I think its like $4 (us)

I have to agree with others who have responded. I was amazed he has all 10 fingers and didn't get kicked out wood. He's too careless. but the jigs are nice.

I'm waiting for somebody to build plastic foundation from a 3D printer. Or better yet, fulled combed frames out of wax. If you can squirt ink, can't you squirt wax?

It will take some experimentation but I am sure it is possible without too much trouble.One would certainly do best to make the foundation out of your own clean wax.I have also thought a 3d printer would be useful for making bee escapes, feeders, queen cages,and beetle traps.Be nice to test your own trap ideas and make useful beek stuff.How come I have never seen anyone use 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle in the box dadoes to hold the frames up?I am certainly eager to hear what experienced beeks think of this idea to save box and frame wear and tear.I have seen the cheap steel pieces for sale for this, but aluminum angles are cheap and easily found.

I build my own boxes and frames. I have come to the conclusion that the standard frames are over designed and complicated beyond necessity. I was a structural engineer before retiring.I do things differently and the frames are no exception. The top bar is 3/4" wide x 3/8" thick x 19" long. No dado cuts, just a rectangular piece of wood. The side bars are 1/4" x 1/4" x 9 -1/8" for deeps. Again just a rectangular piece of wood. The bottom bar is 3/4" wide x 3/8" thick x 18" long. Again just a rectangular piece of wood. I then take a 5/16" dia. drill bit and drill a hole in the top and bottom boards where the standard Lang side bar would be. This give me bee space on the sides. I put a drop of Titebond glue on the end of the 1/4" sticks and drive them into the holes with a rubber mallet. Make sure they are square and flat and let the glue dry. Take a push pin and put it into the side of the top bar, one in the end of alternating sides for spacers.If you use foundation ( I don't) set it in place and attach it with a hot glue gun.They work. Their cheap and quick to make. I use a 14" band saw with a 3/4" blade.