Description

This is 600 feet of friendly granite close to the road, 40 routes of cracks and face of all difficulty, 1 to 5 pitchs in length, a classic 5.9 on the South Face, need I say more?

Getting There

From Boulder: take US 285 to Pine Junction. Right on CO Hwy 126 to Deckers. South on CO 67 through Deckers. Take a right at West Creek on S.R. 68. Continue for about a half-mile and look for a large dome on the right. Park at a pullout below the dome on the right side of the road at a break in the fence and the start of a small path. Hike this faint path to the base of the South Face.

15 Comments

Climbed yesterday 12/5/2010 our own variation of Lost in Space. Roads are completely dry to Sheep's Nose. Half a mile up, just after the turn for Turkey (where we were headed), the road was thick ice on a downhill turning slope. A 4wd with chains would have done it, but we were worried about hitting the wall on the way in and not being able to get out with our 2WD.
Dec 6, 2010

I have a beehive on my house. Once a year, at about this time, they divide the colony in half. It starts with a huge cloud of swarming bees, in an hour or two they will clump up in a football sized mass about 100 feet from the original hive. In a few days scouts will locate a new nest site, and the queen and the mass move on. Relatively harmless unless they're killer bees down south.
Jun 15, 2009

Climbed the Southeast Face route this past Saturday (6/13/09)and really enjoyed the fun route finding challenges. It was nice to get on a line that we had virtually no beta for and use our route finding skills to get up. Only one concern. There was a HUGE swarm of bees in the prominent gully on the Southeast face (climber's right of the start of the SE face route). I have never witnessed a swarm of bees in those numbers! They were swarming approximately 100 feet to the right of and level with the first belay. They were not apparent or visible to us from where we started. I would speculate that they probably maintain a nest somewhere in that gully system? Fortunately, we had no incidents with them for the remainder of the route. Just wanted everyone to be aware of that potential issue in that area of the dome. Be safe!
Jun 15, 2009

Has anyone done when sheep are nervous? we jumped on it today because another party was on lost in space. A very confusing climb... We scrambled up to the ledge next to the second pitch of lost in space and went up some 5.9- cracks up to a large ledge below three cracks. Then we chose the center crack which led up to a small roof, pulled that and then traversed to the right. Then up a quick 5.5ish pitch to the top. Goes along with the picture I uploaded.
Jun 14, 2009

It does kind of look like the moon, but most of the bouldering was unaffected fortunately. For instance... the Air Jordan Boulder has black stumps and dirt around it, but the boulder itself has barely a black mark. It makes bouldering up there a really unique experience right now, as long as you can put up with a bit of soot on your pad..
Jul 14, 2003

The fire swept through this area pretty well. Virtually all of the trees surrounding Sheep's Nose are burned and ash covers the ground. It's a little like being on the moon. Some of the boulders surrounding the base were damanaged by the fire, but most seem relatively intact save for some blackened spots. Looks like all the climbs on the formation itself are fine.mike.
Jul 14, 2003

Sheep's Nose is open as of a few weeks ago, as is Turkey. You can only park where there are posted parking signs. It's still considered a burn area, so be careful of flash flooding in the event of a heavy rain.
May 19, 2003

Along with some excellent bouldering there is also some good tope ropes on the bigger boulders. Brings some slings because the bolts are on the tops of the boulders. One of the best problems is a thin crack that moves diagonally left to right across the face of one of the larger boulders. Near the approach to Ten Years After.
Apr 24, 2002