Posted:23rd Sep 2010I'm baffled as to this carry over stall thingy that is so popular now (if I have the wrong name sorry) and I do not know the momentum and spacial requirements to accomplish this task.

Once you carry over how do you pause it without being awkward, what is the recommended distance the hands are horizontally from the body (vertical specs would be nice as well "waist level" etc, but horizontal is really confusing so "8 inches from torso" or whatever would help a ton), what length should the poi be, and what is the preferred grip for this move?

The logistics for all this pretty wall plane stuff is impossible for me to pick up on a 2D screen so giving measurement figures would be most helpful. Spacial awareness is something no tutorial can help me with so hopefully I can read instructions and walk it out.

I can do the middle very sloppy, just not the beginning and end.

~Rock on!~

"As the pattern gets more intricate and subtle, being swept along is no longer enough"-Waking Life

Posted:24th Sep 2010I think I know what you're talking about...I've been calling them stall chasers for lack of any official term for them. From what I've seen, there are two "vanilla" variants on them: one where the outside hand leads (which I think is the one you're talking about) and one where the inside hand leads (which if memory serves Greg from the Vulcan invented).

The former is performed in this vid at 1:39

The latter is performed in this vid at 3:37

In both cases, it's really just a matter of a fairly simple stall performed in a slightly tricky timing. If you have all your inspin stalls down (bottom, top, up, down), you practice doing full circles with them, ie with your left hand you would practice doing an up stall to your left, then reaching around in essentially a big extension circle to down stall back on your lefthand side. You do the same for the right hand on the right side.

To put them together, I usually start in split-time same direction and stall one hand down and the other straight up. The hand that has gone into the up stall initiates the pattern by going down into its extension circle, but you slow its movement down slightly when it gets to the right side. Imagine that there are hooks in each of your hands and that when the hand that is performing extension comes through and passes by the hand that is still in downstall, these hooks mesh and it does two things: 1) it slows down your extension hand such that the poi head is now leading the hand rather than the other way around 2) it slowly begins the downstalled hand moving. The trick here is definitely to get the poi head of the extension side out in front to lead the way--think of it as your hand following it around as it falls back to its original side in down stall. The other hand will follow it and then separate by continuing the extension around to its original side in up stall. You the repeat the same pattern on this side, back and forth.

Greg's variant works a little differently--for it you're always on non-native side. Here you're either required to turn with the move or start it from a down stall and a static spin. Either way, the biggest difference here is that your leading hand is essentially reaching behind the hand that it is hooking rather than in front of it, if that makes any sense. Your arms/poi cross over each other as they hook and pass over. What resolves the cross is turning so that each hand returns to its native side.

Mel did a great variant on both tricks in his Red Pants video wherein he switches between the two patterns using opposites top stalls (see here at 5:07):

Good luck with this move! I'm a big fan of it (and admittedly probably overuse it myself

Posted:1st Oct 2010Yeah those are the carryovers I speak of, I just need to know approximately how far the hands are away from the torso and such that I cannot see in a 2D video. If you could guestimate or measure and give me specs I'd really appreciate it, or anyone else who could bust out a ruler/tape measure to help me understand what cannot be told in a flat moving picture.

~Rock on!~

"As the pattern gets more intricate and subtle, being swept along is no longer enough"-Waking Life

Posted:1st Oct 2010I would say around a half a foot EON. Really whatever is comfortable. I learned from the video here on HoP made by Derek Faughn. I just kinda guessed and kept at it till I got the feeling for it down. I do really like Drex's post though. Probably the most helpful post you could have asked for haha

Posted:1st Oct 2010Okay, I think I've been trying with my arms too extended in front and not at the correct vertical location. Thanks Smurf, Drex does have a good description but I have absolutely NO spacial awareness unless I'm actually watching something up close looking over someone's shoulder.

If you could give how far "out" the arms are to the sides of the torso for spacing and where vertically (waist level, chest level) I just may be able to finish piecing together this puzzle.

~Rock on!~

"As the pattern gets more intricate and subtle, being swept along is no longer enough"-Waking Life

Posted:1st Oct 2010Ideally each "hook" should occur when your native side arm is straight out (there of course is some fudging here given that your non-native hand can't possibly reach that far) and parallel to the ground. If you think of the body as being like a clock face, you do the hooks at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock with the center of the figure being the center of your chest.

Posted:1st Oct 2010Yeah, carry-overs are mostly an over-the-head move, so the only places your arms should be reaching outwards are at either side of your body. Obviously you make just enough wiggle room in front that if you're doing the move kind of low or kind of small, you don't hit yourself. Once that's licked, the tricky part is just the timing (which is awkward).

Great move, though. Not only is it flavorful, but there are some fun variations.