It sounds like you take care of your car. The brake light coming on might be the pads getting close to worn out and the fluid taking up this space within the system and thus lower fluid level in your reservoir setting off the light. It is not an emergency but a couple more months and the brake light might stay on all the time. It still is not an emergency but I would begin too get the pads replaced probably on the front because they wear out first.

Tune up is only plug change but some plugs (platinum) last at least 50 thousand miles. No such thing as a tune up anymore. Some mechanic might know to clean the throttle plate with an approved cleaner or you will wipe off the protection coating on this part. That is about it for tune up. Buy an air filter every 30 thousand miles or as required by the manual.

Are you a V6 or four cylinder? Also do you drive in cold climates and dirty roads? This effects the maintenance on your car.

I have similar problems to bubba38's.....Purch. 97 Toyota Camry - water pump had seized, shredded belt. Replaced both as well as plugs & wires. Bottom end is fine. Checked upper end of engine, had lots of build up on tops of pistons, etc. - cleaned all. Resurfaced valves & seats, etc. Have it all back together - getting fuel, but only 1 or 2 sparks on first crank (with #1 plug out to test), then no fire at all on subsequent cranking. Can let it set for a day, then get same response. Tried replacing distributor, (was told it could be the problem) - get same results.

Have been told it could be crank sensor or the "module". Need test procedures/advice for testing crank sensor & module, and any other testing/troubleshooting anyone can suggest. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Kiawah -Thanks again for the files last nite. I borrowed a scanner this morning to see what codes it comes up with. Hoping it will tell me which things to look at first. Will let you know what I find out on it.

I just did a blog on V6 plug change, my blog is 1990 Q-45. I dont go into detail like being careful to remove the wires by twisting first then squeeze the wires at the top when you pull then off.

The rear bank is harder but can be accessed. I get the wires off then place the extensions in the spark hole one at a time or else you cant get them on the spark plug. My long one first then the shorter extensions.

I have a '92 Camry with over 200k. when driving (especially over an uneven surface) the front drivers side wheel feels funny. it feels wobbly, i can feel it in the car and in the wheel. it's gradually getting worse. any idea what it could be and how much it would cost to fix?

I need to do 90k service for my camry, most of the dealers are suggesting that I should change the timing belt and water pump along with the service. The price they are quoting are in the range of 1000k - 1300k. Please advise.

Can I do the timing belt , 90k service at mechanic or dealer which one is better. Please note i dont know any mechanic.

Also if you know any good dealer/mechanic who does this for reasoable rates , please let me know. I am located in bellevue, wa.

I don't think a loose solenoid would cause slipping as you describe. It might cause erratic shifting, but I doubt slipping. Did you measure the fuild level before draining it? Condition of fluid and amount of metal attached to the magnets? Slipping like that is either worn bands or clutches, or low pressure caused by a failing pump or bad torque converter, which if driven in that state long enough will damage the trans sufficiently to require a rebuild. You can go by a pressure gauge for $50 or so and connect it up to the pressure port to check if the pressures are in spec.eg: trans pressure tester The only concern with a lot of pressure testers is that most of the fittings are for domestic vehicles, so you may need to source one for the A541E trans.

I have a 2005 toyota camry with approx. 80k miles on it. Today, while driving on the highway, the TRAC OFF, VSC and CEL's all went on simultaneously. Some background info on the vehicle. It was in an front-end/driver-side collision back in 2006, but was 100% fully repaired according to the body shop. In August 08, another body shop changed my front brake pads and "sanded the disc", and I changed all the rear brake pads myself (not sure if it's relevant). I read some other forums and tightened my gas cap, but that didn't seem to solve the problem. I also reset the panel per the instructions of my manual (with the odometer reset button/ignition key). But the three lights still remain. I took the car to Autozone and the codes are as follows: P0441, P0455, and P0446. Is there anything I can take a look at myself before taking it to a mechanic and spending an insane amount of $$$? Also, is the car safe to drive for the time being? Your help is appreciated, thanks!

Codes P0441,0446,0455 are related to leak on evap system.This system takes the fumes in the tank and burns them in the engine when the car starts. Its not hurting the car if the system is not working, only the atmosphere.

To get the CEL (check engine light) off remove the fuse marked STOP, or EFI (electronic fuel inj.) in the engine compartment fuse box for ten seconds with key off.

Look carefully at all of the tubing associated with the evaporation control system. You may find a tube has come off, or a plastic fitting has cracked. I had a mouse (or something) chew thru one of my tubes a couple years ago.

Just replaced the OEM battery (24F) for my 2004 Camry LE (4Cyl) with an Energizer that I bought from Sam's Club. Now, I'm experiencing hesitation at idle. In the store's battery catalog, there was a mention on ESP incompatability with replacement batteries which can cause hesitation.

Any one else have that experience and what countermeasures were taken?

I have an 02 Camry w/69K miles. From new, now and then (every year or 18 months), when it started to get cold outside I would get a squeel when I would turn my steering wheel....something in teh steering column. They used to lube it for free but now she's a bit older they want to charge me $60! Whatever they used to do was usually done in 10 minutes or less. Does anyone know how to lube this area and with what?

Check to make sure that the battery is good, delivering the voltage needed. It may have low voltage and need charged, or a bad cell....causing your hesitation problems. You should have close to 14Volts on it.

To help keep belts quiet ,spay them with belt dressing. Walk into an auto parts store and go to the isle with engine sprays and look for belt dressing spray. Its about $3.00.

Then go out to your car start it, open the hood and spray it on the area where the belts are. On the left side of the engine compartment. Spray it so it hits the inner part of the belt that is going over the pulley. Or spray the pulley where it just get ready to make contact with the belt.