University Gardens Eatery Schooled In Middle East Fare

March 28, 1986|By Margaret Sheridan.

The waiters at University Gardens restaurant don`t let you off the hook easily. ``You ordered too many appetizers,`` said one, loading us down with three meals worth of doggie bags. ``Next time, I`ll stop you.``

Dinner over, the same eating team, rolling back to the car, was nailed within 500 yards by the same gentleman-turned-sprinter. ``Here. Don`t forget the rest of your wine.``

With people who care, with portions of very good Middle Eastern food as generous as the hospitality, University Gardens is easy to take. If the service drags a bit, patience does not go unrewarded.

The food is served hot, the atmosphere`s cozy, and the walls--plastered with international knickknacks--supply food for thought. There`s everything from Spanish bullfighters and Oriental rugs to an American eagle and portraits a la Hallmark greeting cards.

A couple of appetizers (from $1.25 to $2.75) and the freshly baked pita alone can constitute a meal. The eggplant spread zings nicely with the right hit of acidity. A smokier flavor would be a plus. Their version of tabbuli, the classic cracked wheat/mint/parsley salad, contains everything but the green grocer himself. What looks like miniature french-fried torpedos is really kibbi, ovals of ground lamb, skillfully breaded and seasoned. Homemade yogurt in cucumbers can`t be beat.

Entrees come with soup, salad and rice, the latter worth the calories. The combination plate ($8.75), a mixed bag of shish kebab, gyros and ground beef, satisfies any craving for protein. The flavorful cauliflower stew could double in thickness for chowder. By the looks of the shish kebab and gyros sandwiches ($2.50) and the impressive number being sold, that item would fit the bill for a fast bite.

Desserts, golden pastry and nut delights in a variety that plagues the indecisive, are showcased under glass. The coffee is stronger than rich and the nuts in the baklava couldn`t be fresher, but its soggy pastry falls short. There`s no liquor license but patrons are welcome to bring their own beer or wine.