I am a photographer, a tinker, an electronics technology engineer, and author; I write short stories and poetry for the love of writing. I started writing poetry in high school over thirty years ago where I met my wife Mary Anne. We are the proud parents of two sons Joshua and Michael. In college I studied electronics technology and creative writing; soon after I left college I published my novelette “Tails of a Gay Incubus”, it can be found all over the world by googleing its ti...
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Obviously you didn't see the datasheet. I went to eBay.Put the product number 161258806487 in the search.Clicked on the LED and went to the LED page.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-x-LED-3mm-Red-Slow-Flas...Under the picture there are 3 pictures.2 of the pictures are the datasheet, in the datasheet.If the supply voltage is 2 volts you need a 1 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.If the supply voltage is 3 volts you need a 56 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.If the supply voltage is 4 volts you need a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.Since the voltage drop across the S8550 transistor is - 0.6 volts, at 2.4 volts you may not need the two 20 ohm resistors at all. And it still may be iffy for a 1.9 volt forward voltage on the LED. you may still need to up the voltage by one battery ...

Obviously you didn't see the datasheet. I went to eBay.Put the product number 161258806487 in the search.Clicked on the LED and went to the LED page.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/10-x-LED-3mm-Red-Slow-Flas...Under the picture there are 3 pictures.2 of the pictures are the datasheet, in the datasheet.If the supply voltage is 2 volts you need a 1 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.If the supply voltage is 3 volts you need a 56 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.If the supply voltage is 4 volts you need a 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in the circuit.Since the voltage drop across the S8550 transistor is - 0.6 volts, at 2.4 volts you may not need the two 20 ohm resistors at all. And it still may be iffy for a 1.9 volt forward voltage on the LED. you may still need to up the voltage by one battery and add the resistor.

Did you check the datasheet?2 volt 1 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.3 volt 56 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.4 volt 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor.Although transistors are good there is a voltage drop across them sometimes as little as 0.4 volts.It is - 0.6 volts on the S8550.

Love the water tower.I built the original circuit with 5.6 k ohm and the 100 ohm resistor with two solar cells in series and the circuit worked as it should. Off in the light, on in the dark, so it isn't the solar cells in series.Next I went digging in my solar light parts and found a RGB LED with two prongs. It should be just like a flashing LED. I tried it in the circuit and it didn't work as it should. I up it to three 1.2 volt batteries and the circuit worked. Are you sure the LED works on 2.4 volts?

Xmas countdown is always a distraction, I have the added fun of snow, my anniversary, and my sons birthday. I was planning to build the circuit with two solar cells and see if that made a difference. Hope to do that Monday before it snows again. If I am slow getting back to you Merry Christmas.

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you I've been celebrating 30th anniversary.Yes I was referring to the circuit you salvaged from the solar light after finding one just like it I can be sure it is a joule thief.I have looked at the new picks you up loaded and the circuit looks like it is assembled right.Bi directional transistors like 8550 and 8050 can be fickled when you work with them.

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you I've been celebrating 30th anniversary.Yes I was referring to the circuit you salvaged from the solar light after finding one just like it I can be sure it is a joule thief.I have looked at the new picks you up loaded and the circuit looks like it is assembled right.Bi directional transistors like 8550 and 8050 can be fickled when you work with them.

California gets wildfires; you get hurricanes, I get everything but volcano's, sounds like armageddon.One thing other than a bad connection is a bad solar cell or a diode in the solar cells.During the daytime; the solar cell produces electricity, and the current follows the red arrows through the diode to the batteries, and back to the solar cell.Since there is a positive charge on the base of the PNP transistor, the PNP transistor is open like a switch in the off position, and no current flows through the two resistors, LED, or the transistor.During the nighttime; (In the dark.) the solar cell doesn’t produce electricity, in fact the solar cell acts like a resistor. Now the diode stops current from the battery applying a positive charge to the base of the PNP transistor. The current th...

California gets wildfires; you get hurricanes, I get everything but volcano's, sounds like armageddon.One thing other than a bad connection is a bad solar cell or a diode in the solar cells.During the daytime; the solar cell produces electricity, and the current follows the red arrows through the diode to the batteries, and back to the solar cell.Since there is a positive charge on the base of the PNP transistor, the PNP transistor is open like a switch in the off position, and no current flows through the two resistors, LED, or the transistor.During the nighttime; (In the dark.) the solar cell doesn’t produce electricity, in fact the solar cell acts like a resistor. Now the diode stops current from the battery applying a positive charge to the base of the PNP transistor. The current through the solar cell follows the green arrows, bringing the charge on the PNP transistors base to negative closing the transistor like a switch in the on position.Now the current from the battery follows the blue arrows; out the battery but it can’t pass the diode, so the current passes through the LED to the PNP transistors emitter, and out the base and the collector of the PNP transistor, then back to the battery.A diode in the solar cell would prevent the current from following the green arrows.

Thank you.Negative logic is one of the reasons I'm not fond of circuit simulator programs. If you look at datasheets like the programmers do, they program the circuit simulator to run in positive logic like the datasheets. This is a problem when you build a circuit that uses negative logic.

The LED in that circuit runs on 1.5 volts 25 mA it needs the resistor to keep it in specks.I don't have the data sheet on your LED but you could go as far as taking the resistor out of the circuit all together.Can you just connect the LED to the battery and it works fine?If the LED works fine just connected to the battery you don't need the resistor.

The only thing that might interfere is if the 100 ohm resistor limits the current too much.

Sorry for taking so long to reply.Sounds like a neat experiment the diamagnetic field of bismuth is not very strong so it might work if the magnetic field is strong enough.Bismuth is very brittle, so you can't stamp lettering or images in it.

For some reason I can't view the picks.Did you get the free pro membership I sent you, it might help with your profile.I was wondering where you live for suggesting a retailer for components I live in Canada and I get components and datasheets from Mouser out of Texas.

Two solar cells in series would be no different. Check this Instructable out:https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-1-Watt-S...

Have you tried the dark detecting circuit step 4?

That circuit in step 4 sends all the power to the battery, when the sun is up, the LED is off.When the sun goes down; the solar cell acts like a resistor and closes the transistor like a switch, turning on the LED on.So the solar cell is the dark detector.That circuit will work with any 650 mW general purpose NPN transistor; 2N3906, BC556, BC557, S9012, S9015, S8550, or 2N2907

Just to give each house 1000 watts (enough for a computer and some LED lighting) a 50,000 watt generator and a 100,000 watt or 140 horse motor.The average home here in Canada with all the modern conveniences uses that much.

I like it more than the ones in my multi meters.Make sure the component is well seated and press the button. It automaticaly detects NPN and PNP transistors, N -channel and P-channel MOSFET, diodes, dual diodes, thyristors, triacs, resistors and capacitors, inductors and their values. It shows you the pins and the symbol. After a minute it will automatically turn off. With 3 pin; voltage regulators, voltage detectors, and shunt regulators, it will show (4 damaged or unknown part), 1 or 2 resistors or diodes.I got mine here:https://www.banggood.com/LCR-T4-Mega328-Transistor...And here is how to assemble it:https://www.instructables.com/id/Assembling-the-LC...

That depends on the efficiency of the alternator.1 horse is 746 watts10,000 / 746 = 13.4 horse.If the alternator is only 50% efficient, that is 26.8 horse just to run the alternator.13.4 x 50% = 26.8 horseHowever if the alternator is 75% efficient13.4 x 75% = 18 horseAt a 50% efficient alternator all the energy is used to produce electricity.At a 75% efficient alternator only uses 18 horse to produce electricity and you have 9 horse or 6714 watts left over.You can get brushless alternators that are 90% efficient.13.4 x 90% = 15 horse leaving 12 horse unused.

Molten metal is so hot the moisture in your skin instantly turns to vapor creating a barrier between your skin and the hot metal, just like a drop of water on a hot frying pan. Cotton and wool will burn but it will not stick to your skin like hot glue as Polyester will stick to you and burn your flesh until you remove it. Loose cotton, wool, and leather, enables you to throw off the burning clothing and stop the burns from getting worse. It is molten metal it will burn you the important thing is get it off of you quickly to make the burns less severe.

A pic would help, some repair kits are socket connected to the ends of the original leads. so you may need to replace the socket and the element.Shop around there are cheaper places to get them. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.cooktop-recepta...https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.ge-8-stove-elem...

I am glade you liked it.It has a safety valve and an automatic shutoff that is adjustable if you know how. Most of what I do; will not need over 40 psi, so I could adjust it or the shutoff to the value I wanted. These air compressors do not hold as much pressure as oxy or asset tanks, (2500 psi and up.) In fact they hold less psi than an 18 wheeler steering tire. So the metal is just thin sheet steel, my repair is over twice the thickness of the original steel.

I think you are looking for an element socket; but with out a make and model number that is hard. Something like this. https://www.staples.ca/en/exact-replacement-parts-erwb17t10006-surface-element-ceramic-receptacle-block-replaces-wb30t10074-or-ers30t10074/product_23980693_1-CA_1_20001?CID=PS:GS:CA::pla-382974246415::51631702542:pla:1348112827&CampaignID=1348112827&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6f05eS13QIVgbbACh23Lw4wEAYYAiABEgKt4_D_BwE

I don't buy from them, Mouser has datasheets on everything they sell.https://www.mouser.ca/Electronic-Components/

I don't buy from them, I buy from Amazon, Ebay, Banggood,https://www.banggood.com/?p=XR20127277342014082Zand Mouser; Mouser has datasheets on everything they sell.https://www.mouser.ca/Electronic-Components/If you look at my Instructables on reverse engineering I posted links to a number of sources for datasheets.