Since this image was taken nearly 3wks ago I've swapped out the brakes for a set of 2011 XTR's (Trail version) and the EC70 seatpost is gone (waaaaay too flexy) for the Lynskey Ti seatpost which is much, much better.

How does it ride? I don't have much to compare it to since I come from a 26'er carbon full suspension geared background. All I can say is I'm absolutely loving the Ti 29'er hardtail SS thing. I chose this bike specifically for 24hr Solos, I wanted a change from my normal 24hr Solo rigs and this is a radical departure but so far so good. But the proof is in the pudding as they say and the first 24hr taste test is next weekend in Spokane. I've already got several multi-hour rides in this configuration and between the 29'er volume and Ti absorption it seems to have been a good choice, of course I'll know more by next Sunday afternoon. ;-)

Even though the Ti frame is flexy, it's flexy in a good way once you get used to it. After a couple of weeks of pushing the bike to it's limits and learning what it's capable of it was a simple matter of adjusting my style a bit to cooperate more closely with the bike. My biggest concerns with a Ti 29'er seem to have been alleviated. It produces good results across a wide range of demands; from good trail absorption to aggressive line choice handling.

I shot this video a few days ago on a trail I'm not familiar with (only ridden it once a couple of nights prior during a night ride), unfortunately the video doesn't effectively demonstrate how many tight moves and sharp angles you've got to pull at speed in order to one-time this little route but I can assure you the bike is very capable of handling aggressive trail riding and is probably more competent than the rider. I've had the bike on harder trails, bigger climbs and descents and gnarlier tech and it's been very capable, this video is just good proof that Ti-flex isn't a limiter. Maybe steel/aluminum would be great on this trail as well, I'll gladly do long-term reviews on donated frames. ;-)

jbbikerider, looking at the second image down in your post it looks like you are using the Paragon Sliders bolt kit. I just put the same one on my Lynskey, and I like it.

My question is, why are you using the locking hex nut and the knurled thumb nut at the same time? They both achieve the same job and you only need one, right?

Thanks for pointing that out. It came that way from Form. I guess it doesn't hurt anything but it does add some weight that's not necessary(joking). I just received a ti bolt set from Paragon to replace the steel parts on the Black Sheep. Also recieved my Homebrewed Components ti rear cog that's going on tonight. Should save 5-6 ozs total counting the kit and the cog change.

... I just received a ti bolt set from Paragon to replace the steel parts on the Black Sheep. ...

I understand that Black Sheep, and in my case Lynskey, have to save money where they can, but expensive Ti frames that do not come with the Paragon Ti kit?
Seems like they should, and yes, I bought the same Ti bolt set for my Lynskey.

I understand that Black Sheep, and in my case Lynskey, have to save money where they can, but expensive Ti frames that do not come with the Paragon Ti kit?
Seems like they should, and yes, I bought the same Ti bolt set for my Lynskey.

The only downside I've found is that people like to steal them. Ti can also be flexy depending on how it's built, but my XL Pro29 is far from flexy. FWIW I weigh 190ish and race XC.

A well built Ti hardtail frame will weigh slightly more than a similar carbon frame (.5 to 1 lb more depending), but 'should' last much longer. One of the beauties of Ti is you don't have to paint them and can refinish fairly easily. Also, IMO Ti frames are generally silky feeling vs springy steel or dead carbon.

I shot this video a few days ago on a trail I'm not familiar with (only ridden it once a couple of nights prior during a night ride), unfortunately the video doesn't effectively demonstrate how many tight moves and sharp angles you've got to pull at speed in order to one-time this little route but I can assure you the bike is very capable of handling aggressive trail riding and is probably more competent than the rider. I've had the bike on harder trails, bigger climbs and descents and gnarlier tech and it's been very capable, this video is just good proof that Ti-flex isn't a limiter. Maybe steel/aluminum would be great on this trail as well, I'll gladly do long-term reviews on donated frames. ;-)

Zion

It's a standard frame 18 inch size, they don't seem to keep them in stock, i waited 6 weeks for mine. Clearance on the chainstays is quite tight with my Nobby Nic 2.25 so i don't think it would take a 2.4. Very happy with it, good frame for the money.

realised my pic was slightly out of date....

well loved, well used willits

here's my contribution: 4 yrs old at this point and used for everything from commuting to singletrack riding to touring on pavement and of course long extended loaded trips down the continental divide. I still feel lucky to own it every time I throw a leg over it...

i tend to go with pretty low pressure and have the terralogic about 25%-30% on, so that i dont bob around, but if i hit anything of any size i imediately get travel...i had a reba on before and the talas and terralogic, well, i wouldnt want to give them up....

the terralogic doesnt stop it sagging correctly either, just stops the non-useful motion....

A beautiful bike, although I wonder why you decided on sliders, as opposed to James' own HACS.
Also the handle bar seems a bit higher than the saddle, more like a BMX posture. Any particular reason?

Regarding the bling, I personally don't like colorful components; I prefer the frame to speak out and leave the rest in the background.
I have also found out that when you bling your bike, you are never truly satisfied and always desire to make improvement and changes, not to mention that when the bike ages the components look more run-down than if in neutral colors. However, for a blinged out bike you did a tasteful job.

aim to get short chain stays ( currently 417 to 437) with adjustable dropout
massive mud clearance at least 10mm between any part of the frame and a 2.4 tyre
and suitable for hub gears, single speed, 10 speed and belt drive

aim to get short chain stays ( currently 417 to 437) with adjustable dropout
massive mud clearance at least 10mm between any part of the frame and a 2.4 tyre
and suitable for hub gears, single speed, 10 speed and belt drive

Hi Highlife dont worry your wallet is safe I have no intention just yet of producing it,,I am currently drawing up V2 but if i could find 10 interested people we could get it made at Lynsky

I have a lighter narrower version of the dropout,,

I am moving the adjustment range to make use of the clearance between the seat tube and the tyre,, so the chainstay length would be 405 -425 for the adjustable version

the chainstay will also come down at the seat tube get it to run just obove the chain ,
should stiffen the whole thing up this will give a little less tyre clearence but the chainstays will still be more than 10mm away from a 2.4 tyre