6 speed auto 09G ATF fluid change and filter DIY

All the write-ups I have found for ATF are for the DSG transmissions. The procedure is different for the 6 speed 09G tiptronics and I had to go it alone since no one here or on vwvortex seemed to know how. The differences are the different filter and location, and a different tool is required for the oil pan; for the DSG trannies you just need the VAS 6262 tool, but that tool won't work for the 09G tiptronic. Instead you need a 6262/2. You can use the 6262 but if you do, you then need the 6262/2 which is an adapter. However, the adapter works fine by itself so you don't need both tools, you just need the 6262/2.

The DSG transmission has a much larger drain plug than the 09G which is why the 6262/2 is needed. The 6262/2 is basically just a hollow metal pipe with threads cut in the end that are the same as the drain plug... M10 I believe. The other end is just smooth and you attach a hose to it for the ATF to flow through.

VAS 6262/2 tool from AST Tools:

The DSG uses a different filter in a different location as well. The 09G has the filter inside the oil pan like most VW transmissions.

Put the drain pan below the transmission drain plug and remove the drain plug using your 5mm allen. Once that is removed, some oil may drain. Wait for it to slow down a bit, then insert your 5mm allen into the hole, deeper, and unscrew the fill level tube. The remainder of the ATF will now drain.

Drain Plug and crush washer:

Drain plug removed, showing allen portion of ATF level tube:

ATF level Tube removed:

Once it has drained, remove the 8 bolts holding the transmission pan in place and remove the pan. Remove the gasket from the pan. Clean the pan well, removing the magnets and giving them a good cleaning, then put magnets back in place. Note that the oil pan has lines stamped where the magnets are supposed to be. Keep the inside of the pan spotless.

Cleaned oil pan with level tube re-installed and new gasket:

Remove the filter via three bolts. When you do, be prepared as more ATF will pour out of that area.

Old filter:

New filter:

Wipe the transmission where the oil pan and filter mate to it.

Put some clean ATF on the new cork filter and install it. Tighten the filter bolts to 7 newton meters.

New filter installed:

Put the new gasket on the oil pan, including the metal spacers in the holes, and rub some clean ATF on it, then bolt it in place. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal pattern to 7 newton meters (I tightened these by hand and did not use a torque wrench because I've stripped out one of these bolts on another car of mine when torquing them to factory specs... part of it is that I believe the specs are "dry" and when you are doing this job, the threads will end up coated in ATF. When threads are wet, the torque number goes down, so just snug them up to what feels right but they don't need to be super tight... just be careful you don't strip them!)

Re-install the fill level tube into the pan.

To fill, you put one end of your 5/16" hose on the AST tool, and the other end on the built-in spigot of the ATF bottles. The ATF bottles have a cool little spigot that comes out like a gas can. The problem is that it's a bit too big to get the 5/16" hose over it. What I did was soak the last inch or so of my hose in boiling water for 10 seconds to soften it, then dried it completely inside and out quickly, and then was able to slide it over the spigot. Once you do that, you can use that same cap+spigot for all the rest of the bottles. You could also warm the hose with a heat gun or hair dryer. If you use the water method like I did, make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you remove ALL traces of water from the inside the hose!!!!!

Cap and spigot connected to hose:

Thread the AST (6262/2) tool into the oil pan where the bolt normally goes, then put the 5/16" hose on the bottom of it, then screw your ATF bottle into the spigot cap. Hold the bottle high and turn upside down and squeeze. You can also use a razor blade to poke a little hole in the bottom of the bottle (which is now at the top since you are holding it upside down) which allows air to replace the fluid that is draining out. Put 3.5 quarts into the transmission.

6262/2 Tool with hose connected:

Filling with fluid:

Now the tricky part.... pull the hose off the AST tool and quickly plug the tool with a rubber plug of some sort to keep the fluid from draining. Start the car and let it idle. Put it in gear with your foot on the brake and leave there for about 10 seconds, then put it back in park.

Now you need to level the car so that you can check the fluid level. You can't check the level if the car is on jack stands or jacked up. If your car is lowered, it might not have enough clearance to leave the 6262/2 tool in place so while the car is running, you'll have to remove it and put the drain plug in place quickly (while fluid runs out over your hands making everything a slippery impossible mess). If your car is not lowered, you'll have enough clearance but lower slowly, or if on jackstands, back the car off VERY slowly.

With the car still running and now level, it's time to check the ATF fluid level. Use your VCDS to check the ATF temp. You check the ATF level when the ATF temp is 40 degrees (plus or minus about 5 degrees is ok). To check the fluid level, remove the drain plug bolt. If no fluid comes out, you need to add some. If fluid comes out, let it drain until it drips, then re-install drain plug and torque to 15 newton meters. Note that if the engine is NOT running, the fluid level will be much higher and will drain out with the bolt removed, causing you to have a low transmission fluid level.

Now re-install the belly pan and you're done. Your ATF and filter should be changed every 40k miles.

M10X1 bolt and nut from Home Depot drilled w/ a 1/4 hole and an o-ring could work for vas6262-2 also

Yeah once I realized what a 6262-2 was, I dug out an M10 bolt, looked at it, and realized that there was just no way I was going to be able to accurately drill a hole all the way through it. If you have a good drill press and good jigs, you could probably do it but it would certainly be close!

bolt

1/4" leaves a .060 wall as the 10mm bolt was .390 approx. I used a 60mm long bolt and got off a little. It just ment I had to cut the hose end a little shorter. Harbor freight had a trasfer pump for $6.00 that came w/ hoses and that is what I am using instead of gravity.

I have done this same job on 1-April-2011 (same time as this post!)
However I used a T55 key to unscrew the upper bolt and added the new ATF from the top.
The issue is that only about 3L of ATF came out and the colour was dark brown.
Even after adding the new 3L ATF, the color is still brown (I used the original VW ATF, made in Japan for this AISIN transmission)

This box is factory filled with 7L, so only 1/2 of the ATF was changed which I Don't like.
Any hint (other than adding and draining mor ATF)

Does remioving the valve body helps removing some extra old ATF?
is it something safe to do

The car has 50.000KM, 2 1/2 years old (2.0TSI).

Any feedabck about the reliability of this 09G?
I used it mostly as tiptronic sicne it feels sportier and less torque convertor ineficiency, however this will put more stress on the lock-up clutches.

this is cools DIY. my tiguan is running with similar tranny. it is a 09M that can take more torque. it is going to be the same? it is possible to top up from the top with out the special tool? it is really needed to change the strainer with only 55,000KM?

Changing valve body and fluid

This post was a lifesaver. It inspired me to locate the web posting of the factory service information for changing the fluid and the valve:http://docs.jayzone.eu/erWin/VW/Jett...rbox%2009G.pdf
This was necessary because my daughter's 2006 Jetta with the 2.5 liter five cylinder was shifting erratically (139k miles). If VW would have recommended changing the fluid every 50,000 or even 80,000 miles, this failure would not have occurred. I understand that they now recommend this on present models.
To fill the transmission after dumping the old fluid, you need 5 liters (the total capacity of the unit is 7.1 liters but there will be about 2 liters in the torque converter that does not drain. There is a dummy filler plug (I think that it has been referred to on this site as a "bolt") located midships on the rear of the top of the transmission. It uses a 55 torx wrench to loosen/tighten. The thread is a 14mm nominal diameter with a pitch of 1.5mm. This is a standard bolt thread. I machined an adapter so that I could rig a rubber hose filler tube to the hole and using a funnel, I got five liters in within a reasonable time. Happy motoring.

thank you for sharing the link and that is what i am looking for. my gearbox is a 09M for Tiguan but it is the same as passat. just that the max torque is difference and most probably gear ratio as well.

so you top up from the top? is the fill hold you refering to is just beside the multilevel selector switch? hope you got a pic of it.

yes, this is a very valuable post for guys like me (DIY). i managed to do it last month with all the prep work/tools. i used 5 liters (no filter change) as it was only 55K Km on it. so will change next round.

whole job is easy with the 4 poles lifter. pump in 5 liters and let it 'warm up' to 40C. actually, if the car was driven before the change, the oil temp will reach 40C very quickly during fill-up and almost immediately you could do the level check. i don't have the VAGCOM but use a 'Fever Strip' to measure the ATF pan temp....

during level check, it over flow 2 liters. so total changed was only 3liters

I purchased VAS 6262/2 for $22.51 plus shipping ($10) from here VAS6262/2, ADAPTER for filling ATF Oil . Also, I have an extra Meistersatz kit for free if you are local and want to pick it up in San Ramon, CA. I bought the wrong since my tranny is a 09M on a 3.6L. I can shipping it for $10 also.

This month i drained the old fluid and removed the valvebody from my 09G, 2.5 L 2007 Jetta, got 4,7 liters out and it was dark brown like Pentosin ATF.

My car had problems when shifting from 2 to 3 and R, so I changed all solenoids bushings and now overall function is great.

I had to fill 5 quarts of Toyota ATF T-IV fluid thru the wiring harness 8 pin plug hole, unscrew it's bolt, pulled the plug out carefully just enough to insert a 7 mm diameter hose and filled the fluid.

Some people and manuals say that Aisin 09G fluid is "filled for life", but after i worked on the solenoids, i believe it's impossible to this gearbox survive for at least 5 years of work whithout any issue.

When i removed it's pan, the magnets were twice their size with very small and microscopic filings, like powder, and the solenoids bushings removed were severely compromised.

For sure it requires maintenance, at least pan removal, magnets cleaning and fluid change at every 50K miles. This would minimize issues with solenoid malfunction and other problems related to this gearbox family.

Is it possible to take a picture where that dummy filler you mentioned is located and post for us ? is it easy to reach and less risky than remove the 8 pin wiring harness plug, as i did with my 09G gearbox ?

Nice write-up. Here's a couple of things I did.. I went to the local Ace Hardware store to the plumbing/faucet section and bought a couple of nylon nozzles along with four feet of clear tubing for less than $5 (took drain plug with me). I drilled out a hole in the cap of a cleaned out coolant bottle and bolted in the second nozzle there. Filled it up with Redline D4 ATF and set the bottle on a box higher than the transmission. I punched in a small air hole and let gravity do the work. It took about a hour.

I had the car on floor jacks and used a 12 inch carpenter level with the air bubbles and placed it along the bottom edge of the transmission to level it. I ended up having to lower the back of the car a couple of notches for where I had the floor jacks placed.

ATF, filter and gasket, and the the stuff from the hardware store all for less than $100.3.jpg

I learned yesterday that the filter & gasket for the 09M transmission installed in 3.6L 4motion Wagons are a different from the filter & gasket in 3.6L 4motion sedans--they're a little bigger. The part number for the filter is 09M 325 429. The gasket is also different but I don't have a part number for that. No idea if the larger wagon filter can be used in the sedans.

I had the fluid and filter changed on my wagon with 66,800mi on it. I've only had the car for a couple of months so I don't know its full history but I called the dealers that showed up on its Carfax and I'm 99% sure that the fluid and filter were both original. Before the change I could hear some transmission whine on acceleration, and after the change it's gone. I'll be getting the fluid and filter changed every 40,000mi from now on.

Let me first apologize for answering your question quite a bit late - had some other commitments. I have four 1.5 or 2 ton jackstands. I extended them all the same length and then I raised the front first and put them in. Then I did the same with the back.

If you look at the plastic trim under the front and back door, you’ll find two arrows pointing down on the trim – one in the front and the other one in the back. That is where a scissor jack would be used to raise the car when you change a tire. Those are the places I placed all jackstands at.

I also protected the car with some rags I put on the jackstands, but some paint still came off. I think it would be a good idea to clean that area once you bring the car back down and apply some rust treatment (such as Permatex Rust Treatment) followed with a bit of rubberized spray to ward off any rust. I changed my ATF last summer, and I’ll do this ASAP.
Better yet, I might splurge and buy POR15 starter kit and apply it in those areas.

Thanks Kreka--what I was actually wondering is where you put the jack if the jack stands went in the factory jacking positions? I've heard that people use the rear inside pivot of the front control arms on the front, but I'm curious about the back.

At the front, I raised the car at the control arm mounting brackets. I suppose that sounds like the rear inside pivot of a control arm. The car is not that heavy in the back, so I set the jack right underneath the rear suspension coil springs, jacked it up high enough so I could slip jackstands in and slowly lowered it. If you need some pics, let me know.

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