Just got my 97 TSI AWD up and running (just installed a SBR4000 and new ShepTrans Stage 3) and the pedal was nice and firm, although the clutch would engage pretty close to the floorboard, say... approx. 2" from the floorboard.

I was concerned about the clutch not fully releasing due to the clutch engaging so close off the floor.

So I researched and found the faq on www.vfaq.com to adjust the rod that connects to the master cylinder and it says to adjust about 1/2 to 1 revolution at a time.

I adjusted the rod 1 revolution, tightened the lock nut back up, and started the car to check when the clutch would engage. It engaged about 1/2 way (normal throw from floorboard to top should be about 7" from what I've read, so I'm approximating that it engaged at about 3.5"?)

Adjusted the rod again, 1/2 revolution this time, and checked the engagement. It was engaging at about 3/4 out... I've read that you need some pedal play up top so the cylinder works correctly (I'm thinking its called ghost pedal? When the system builds up to much pressure?)

So I adjusted the adjustment rod back that 1/2 revolution so the clutch would engage at about 1/2 pedal travel.

Drove it about 5-10 mins to a couple stores, and everything seemed fine. Went to work in the morning and everything still fine, until I got off the freeway.

The clutch seemed like it lost a decent amount of the firmness, but was still useable. I tried to be easy on it the rest of the way to work. It also seemed like it was more difficult to switch gears.

Then the one time I had to come to a complete stop. When I pushed the clutch and tried to put it into first, it started to make a scraping / grinding noise. Of course I panicked and let off the clutch.

Sat there for a min trying to rack my brain on what could be going on, and I finally tried just pushing the clutch in 1/2 way, and the car would go into gear, but the clutch engaged at the "very top" of pedal travel.

After some extensive seraching I found a post JackM made mentioning about pushing the rod on the slave to make sure it wasn't (I'm guessing) overextended. And sure enough, I couldn't push it in. I backed the rod 1 full turn out of the master cylinder, and the slave was pushable, as well as the clutch engagement being back to about 1/2 way.

The bad part is, I haven't regained the firmness in the pedal... I've tried bleeding the clutch, but to no avail.

Could I have damaged the slave or throw out bearing by pushing the clutch to far? Could I have damaged the pressure plate by over extending the throw out bearing?

I sent a PM to JackM earlier since I didn't think I'd get posting privledges until tommorrow. He advised I should put the car in 1st and rev to 7k to make sure the clutch isn't dragging.

I'm going to do that tonight, but I'm still mainly concerned about the difference in clutch pedal firmness thats happened in the last day. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

The lines are probably as old as the car. No leaks thats I've found yet. The car has 160k on it, and I've never replaced the master before, but it looks almost brand new (I've only personally had the vehicle for 5k miles... Bought it 2 years ago and then I got shipped to South Korea).

Perhaps a seal went bad in the slave/master due to overextension?

On a good note, got my BOV adapter and A-pillar gauge pod today! will post reviews and toss pictures up in my album for referencing.

woot for dsms clutch adjustments being a PITA....I would change the master after a check on the fluid levels/see if anything is out of the norm,brake fluid in car - or hydrualic w/e you use. I would have stopped at it working better just because it's a dsm...

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