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Take the alternator out and bring it to an alternator shop or electric shop to have it tested. They can confirm by testing the alternator with bench electric equipment if it is actually working. It is possible to swap out the alternator with an alternate OR have the alternator rebuilt for a nominal fee.

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Don't how accessible it is in your van but if possible, use a meter (Chinese have made them affordable) across the battery terminals and quickly remove the heavy cable from the alternator and watch the meter reading.
If it is still falling quickly, the alternator is likely OK and something else is causing the drain.

Most Digital Multimeters have a separate 10 Ampere range via a separate, marked jack; the black lead stays put, the red lead goes to the 10A jack.
Remove the negative battery cable, connect the black lead to the battery terminal, quickly touch the red lead to the loosened battery clamp; this is normally protected by an internal fuse which may blow if the current is well above 10 amperes.
If it doesn't blow. attach the leads so you can start the next step.

This will be a systematic removal and replacement of each fuse, one at a time, until the current reading drops to a low value on the meter indication.
Milliamperes, not normally seen on this meter range, are normal.

If this works, you have narrowed down the culprit to a specific circuit and at that point, you are on your own.

Hi dude, what you need to do is get or borrow a multimeter and check the charge firstly of your battery just battery, then start your car, you should have roughly 12volts battery, then 14volts when car is running, give your battery a voltage drop test also to see if it holds charge. What type of car is it as this is important petrol or diesel.

Check each glow plug lead for earthing. This could be the lead chaffing against something on the engine block. Alternatively, remove all glow plug leads and replace them, one by one, starting the engine after each lead is re-fitted, until you find the faulty one

There is something using the battery power once you are parked.
Check your radio is off, interior Lights are off (check all bulbs) check exterior lights are off (check all bulbs) Check nothing is plugged into the ciggerette port

Your car computer will have very little to do with how your battery is being charged.
The most obvious thing to check first is that you have good 'clean' contacts to your replacement alternator and battery which I assume are either new or reconditioned: the issue you describe has been caused many times by just loose or corroded contact!
To ensure that you have working replacement parts:
1) With engine off, measure the voltage across your battery terminal with a good digital multimeter: should read above 12 Volts. If it reads around 10.5Volts, you have a bad battery with possibly a shorted cell.
2) With engine running, the reading across your battery terminals should now read around 13.8Volts: under this voltage or above 14.5volts, you have a defective alternator or more likely a faulty voltage regulator in your alternator. An over voltage condition will eventually 'fry' your battery by bubbling away your battery fluid (so please also check your battery fluid level).
Hope it helps: let me know how you go!

Find a friend with a heated garage that you can use first off, then locate the short that may be causing all this. Unless you have a bad battery? If its more than 3 years old, replace it. Batterys are cheap. WALMART has em under 89 bucks for most vehicles.

If the charge light is flashing, then staying on, there is something wrong w/ the charging system. Most parts stores offer a free check of your charging system. Have it checked out, there's a good chance u need a new alternator. Let me know what u find. Good luck!