Best Press For Precision Shooting? (Single Stage vs. Turret)

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No... but with computers I have no choice - with loading equipment, I do!

[/ QUOTE ]I was referring to how you got your feelings out to the world. In that regard, you do have a choice; lots of them in fact. There are other ways to convey your feelings to the whole world besides using a computer-based communications system. You're smart enough to figure them out then use them when you're ready to. And they're all 100% made in the USA.

A number of years ago a very well known gun writer did an article on precision reloading. He used progressive presses and single stage presses. I was very surprised when the loads were put on paper. The results were the same. I personally load .223 match ammo on a Dillon 550B, but I load others one at a time on a Sinclair/Hart press. They both work for me.
db

Hi, again,
Just to give "Catshooter" a boost, I'll say I use hornady presses, BUT.
I buy Redding Competition dies when I can, and Hornady dies if I can't. I have a couple others, but I almost never use them. (odd calibers).

I'll even say that I'll buy the Redding dies even if I only load for them every few years. I have a 3 die set of Reddings in 7mm mag that I've never used, and I've had the set for over 2 years. 7 Mag isn't something I shoot very often. I like 6mm, and .30 cal better, and they're Redding's every one.

Doug, I kind of feel that a good press and a good set of dies is better. I use a redding turret and I have owned several presses. I like the turret but the alterative is the Redding big boss press. I feel these presses are very well made and have used redding for a long time now. What I like about them is the ram is at its highest point when the handle bottoms out. Some presses I have owned acutually backed up slightly when the handle bottomed out. I don't know if it was a problem or not but I know I didn't like it You have stated that you are not a handload goonie so what I am suggesting here is the better the equipment the easier the job is. If it were me I would buy a Redding big boss press. ( There is one for sale on this site in the swap area or at least was)next I would use forester seating dies they are right and cheaper than redding and then buy redding sizing dies 1 type S neck die and a body die. stay away from lock-n-load bushings I tried them and did not think the trouble was worth the money. All you have to do with the redding and forester is set the die and lock the ring and everytime you screw the die in it will return to it orginial position. I have recently purchased the Redding case trimmer with the micrometer adjustment on it and I like it but I load several different cartridges. If you are mainly going to load 1 or 2 cartridges this is probley over kill, so I would suggest the standard Redding or the Forester the wilson is probely one of the best but the price goes up quiet abeit. Sinclair makes all kinds of small tools -primer pocket uniformer, flash hole deburrs, etc I use alot of there stuff. Next would be a priming tool. I like the RCBS Automatic Priming Tool I have it works sort of like your dillon stuff -put the primer in a tray flip and pick up with the tubes and install on the machine a go to town. It is quick and has good feel. A buddy has the sinclair priming tool and it is and excellant too but it isn't cheap. The extras required are expensive. The RCBS primong tool only requires a shell holder which you would already have for you dies. Then the scale is important. I personally use a balance beam scale with the Lee dip cups and a good trickler I like the Redding trickler because it is heavy. I have no good knowledge on the electric scales I enjoy the balance beam way so I stick with it. I do Have a RCBS 750 but I use it for weighing brass, bullets and shot for the 950 I have.
I know you only asked about a press but I though you might want to know a little more. So I though I would give my 2 cents worth I hope this helps.

Doug,
rotorheads recommendation is the best you can get on a budget but i would use the Forster Ultra seater.
The Redding "S" type neck die uses interchangeable neck bushings to size the neck.
In order to fully utilise this type of die and to give your self consistant neck tension it is important that you neck turn your case necks.
Tools for this are available from Sinclair and K&amp;M services.
The next step up from this would be Redding Competition dies with micrometer adjustable heads.
The most accurate form of handloading does away with the convential 7/8 x 14 press and utilises hand dies and an arbour press.
Just as a matter of interest, a full hand die set up from sinclair would work out cheaper then buying a convential press and compettiton dies.
Check out this link: http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/...amp;type=store

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The most accurate form of handloading does away with the convential 7/8 x 14 press and utilises hand dies and an arbour press.

[/ QUOTE ]I disagree. The best accuracy I know of has been done with conventional single-stage reloading presses using 7/8-14 full-length sizing dies. However, if one limits their scope of information to just what the benchresters do, then they will probably think the hand dies used with arbor presses are the way to go.

I, being a benchrester, use both methods. I neck size, "bump" the shoulder .002", and de-prime with a 7/8 x 14 die that I made, and I seat my bullets with a straight line seater (like a Wilson) that I also made with the chambering reamer.
"Neck sizing only" kind of went south, amongst BR shooters, a few years back. Most of the people that I shoot with are using a custom made "bump die" to ease the shoulder back about .002". This allows the bolt to close easier and avoids disturbing the rifle in the bags.