Rock suggested we make lobster Thermidor, which takes a while to prepare, but we decided to go for it. You can serve it in the lobster shells or in scallop shells. I've had this recipe since the 1970s and go it from a friend in San Francisco who suggested that I play with it to suit my personal taste. Make the bechamel sauce before you begin and set aside.

BECHAMEL SAUCE:

Makes about 1 cup

1/4 cup butter

1/2 cup chopped onions

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

Heat the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until soft and golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Blend in the flour and milk and season with salt. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is thick and smooth. Set aside.

Lobster Thermidor

Makes 4 servings

2 live lobsters, each about 1-1/2 pounds

1 tablespoon sea salt

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1/2 cup thinly sliced white button mushrooms

1/2 cup diced tomatoes, drained (optional)

1/4 cup dry sherry

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

Pinch dry mustard

1/2 cup bechamel sauce

Salt and cayenne

1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped until thickened

Put the sea salt and lemon juice in a large pot of water. Bring to a boil. Drop the lobsters into the boiling water and cook for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the water and drain. Set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees

When the lobsters are cool enough to handle, twist off the claws and crack them, then remove meat. Halve lobsters lengthwise with kitchen shears, beginning from the tail end, then remove the tail meat, reserving the shells. Cut all lobster meat into bite-size pieces. Discard any remaining lobster innards, then rinse and dry shells. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots, mushrooms and tomatoes (if using), and cook, stirring for about 3 minutes. Add the sherry, black pepper, paprika and dry mustard. Stir to blend. Add 1/2 cup of the bechamel sauce and the lobster pieces, and stir to mix. Season with salt and cayenne. Cook, stirring gently, for 5 minutes. Fill the lobster shells (or scallop shells) with the mixture. Combine the remaining bechamel sauce with the whipped cream and cover the top of each half lobster.

Place the filled lobsters in a shallow baking pan and bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately.