Contributed Comments

Comments: If traveling from the south (from Gateway or the Unaweep granite), it is 3 miles from the Cactus Park turnoff to the parking lot for the Petrified Wall. Parking lot will be on your left when going down the hill.

Comments: Maybe an admin can update the info in the description: The day pass at Rifle is $5 per car. You can get season passes, which are a great deal, from the campground host/park ranger or at the City of Rifle Parks Department in town.

Comments: We rapped the route with a single 60 meter rope (an Edelweiss FYI, although I'm not sure if it's extra long compared to other 60s). Tie knots in the ends as all of the raps were long and close to the limit of a 60 and the last rap required some easy down climbing for a few feet.

Rap lengths by pitches: Pitch 5 was 95'. Pitch 4 was 90'. Pitch 3 was 100'. Pitch 2 was all of 100' with some helpful rope stretch. Pitch 1 was just over 100' with 5 feet of easy down climbing.

Comments: Also, we had read the comments about the summit needing a new register so we brought one up, although someone else had beat us to the punch. Either way, there is now a good register up there.

Also, it was a rope stretching 100 foot rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. Call it 102' and tie knots in the end if you're going to rap that section with a single 60.

And, we took new #4 and #5 Camalots and used them although I'm a bit of a wimp and like to place a lot of gear. ... more >>

Comments: Jake's beta is good for the fixed line approach but here's a little to add: The section of road where you are driving on slick rock and are very close to the edge of Monument Basin, with the arched tower visible, is a great landmark. It is .7 mile from that arched tower viewpoint to the pullout. There is a wide, sandy wash you cross with steep sandy driving on both sides of the wash. We pulled into a small wash on the left (pictured below) just after that wider sandy wash. I think that's ... more >>

Comments: No raps are needed if you go up to the base of the quartzite and head climber's left into the large quartzite amphitheater where Deep Throat is located. From there, hike down the gully and then cross over a small ridge to get into the gully on the climber's left side of Glenwood Falls, putting you back at the base and your packs with relative ease.

Comments: This climb is almost exactly 70 meters long. I lead it in one long pitch the other day, and the rope came tight a few meters before the large tree on the right side of the gully with many slings. Easily rapped with two 70 meter cords.

While possible to lead it in one pitch, it's not recommended unless you use long slings and your belayer is prepared to simul-climb the start.

Comments: Thanks Jeff. I must have put my comment on the wrong route. My bad. I'm going to delete me comment and move it to the appropriate route. Thanks for putting up these routes. It's a fun and interesting place to climb!

Comments: Dave, it is a MJM route. He calls it 12a, but Scott and I tried it and couldn't figure out how to do a wicked hard move in the middle of the route. So, it didn't feel anything like 12a to us, but maybe we just totally missed something.

Comments: I thought this thing was pretty sweet. A bolt got added in one runout section, and I think some of the more questionable flakes have been removed. Definitely a quality line and a fun, long pitch.

Comments: Good route with a bit of new route crispiness to it still. The crux felt hard for the grade and the sustained 5.11 climbing felt all of 5.11. I have heard some people describe this as maybe being harder than 12a. Good stuff, whatever it is, get on it!

Comments: Rebolted with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, supplied by the ASCA. There was one bolt that had been replaced relatively recently that I left. Also, I placed a Fixe Triplex where you reach left into the underclings (bolt #5 or 6?). The old bolt was way out left, but I wasn't sure exactly where the best placement would be. With the Triplex, it's bomber for now, and we can always pull it and fill the hole with a glue-in or move the bolt if it's not in the best spo... more >>

Comments: I changed the grade on this and Cut the Cord to reflect the feedback I heard and also I think my opinion started to change. But, chime in because community consensus seems to work best for grading routes. Enjoy.

Comments: Michael, you're not the only one to tell me that. Originally I thought this was easier than Cut the Cord. I'm probably wrong. Things clean up and better beta is found. I do think this could be a bit easier for tall people. So, is Cut the Cord easier than 10c or is this harder than 10b? Opinion? I'm happy to change the grades.

Comments: Replaced the 1st, 2nd, and 4th bolts yesterday with hardware courtesy of the ASCA. The old 4th bolt snapped with barely any force on the wrench, and the 1st snapped with three small taps of the hammer. Kind of sketch.