Description

Every climbing area needs a high-quality handcrack, but not every area is so blessed. This Golden Cliffs classic is hidden away at the far left end of the cliff, but it is worth the hike with a rack of gear. Located on the right wall of the large dihedral of "Chimney Route", it splits the wall all the way to the rim at plus or minus hand size. For convenience, and to minimize the erosive impacts of walking off the top of the cliff, a two bolt anchor with rings was installed in 2001. The anchor is accessible from the top, so there's no excuse not to toprope it even if you left the cams in the car.

Protection

Medium to large cams (#3.5 Camalot) to a two bolt anchor with rings. The anchor bolts are widely-spaced, so don't expect quickdraws to work well.

Comment Type:

Well, I guess for this crag this is a three star route, although I've climbed a couple better cracks here. Good way to avoid the crowds though. It's actually kinda wide at the top. A 3.5 woulda worked, I only had a #3, and it was weak...try the 5.8 called Bush Loves Detroit for a more fun climb....
Jan 13, 2003