I have those same LED turn signals for my dirtbike, which lives in the woods in very technical single track. I went through 4-5 different ones in just a few weeks time until I tried those. They've been going strong for over a year now, despite hitting quite a few trees, and gong through a lot of crashes. Not very bright though.

I have those same LED turn signals for my dirtbike, which lives in the woods in very technical single track. I went through 4-5 different ones in just a few weeks time until I tried those. They've been going strong for over a year now, despite hitting quite a few trees, and gong through a lot of crashes. Not very bright though.

That's good news. I chose these because they were small, LED, very bright. I saw they you thought they were not bright. Last night I hooked up a set to a battery and turned off the garage lights and they were very bright. I compared the EOM lights doing the same thing and these are brighter IMO.

Plus they were Cheap from Ebay Hong Kong and only took 7 days to reach me. After I had already purchased them Adv Pulse did a review on them and it was really positive......just dumb luck on my part for ordering the same exact ones. They listed all the same reasons why i also thought they would be really good except mine choice falls into... Even a blind squirrel finds a nut.....

I have almost 9k miles on mine and have been doing a little reading on the fuel filter I changed. Inside the white screen on mine the black debris is crunchy when mashed. Unsure but wondering if there is something inside the tank from the manufacturing process.

Oh well either way a new filter is in and a secondary one is being installed on the cross over line. Not a huge deal for me, just something to check at 30k miles as changing it is not super simple in the middle of a long ride but something you could do if needed to. Would just need to run without it. Just a periodic maintenance issue is all.

Disclaimer: the bottom photo is one I web searched up but it is exactly the same as the 1190

Oh well either way a new filter is in and a secondary one is being installed on the cross over line.

This is puzzling me. You are going to filter fuel coming from the right side of the tank?

__________________
Remember, you're reading this on the Internet and it was written by a guy who can remember stuff which never happened.
2014 KTM1190 Adventure R
2008 KTM300 XC (plated)
2008 KTM690 Enduro

This is puzzling me. You are going to filter fuel coming from the right side of the tank?

Yep....fuel flows from right to left in the cross over line. Don't believe me, shut off the right hand side and see if you don't run out of fuel sooner even though it says you have fuel. The right hand side is where the fuel Gauge sensor/float is. As shown in the photo below. I had to pull it today because of a broken wires.

Anyway....

Last night when I changed the filter it was almost dark. Today I began looking at it and the two metal caps just basically fall off. I think I know what the hard pieces were in the screen I mentioned. The filter itself is just plastic topped. I suspect in the manufacturing process the metal caps are just disks with one that has a hole in it. Its placed in the press that forms the caps to the filter. When it does so it breaks the plastic underneath which falls into the filter. I got a small broken piece of plastic out. This is my best guess......

Also included a few photos of my fix to the float sensor plug. I broke them off right at the plug, no way to splice them back. I got a couple of female pins, soldered wires and put them back in then filled the cavity with liquid plastic electrical insulation. Once hardened it will be fine. I attached a SAE connection so i can disconnect when I want to remove the tank again. Shit happens when you actually work on stuff, your dealer breaks crap also. Just fixes it and you never know. The metal float tube is about 16 inches or so long down in the tank with 4 small holes in the plastic bottom.

Just a photo of what the tail section of your bike looks like if yo have never seen it. I am wiring in my LED resistors and signals.

I washed the bash plate but wanted it cleaner before painting it, the wife already said NO about using her dish washer. She took the boy to the new Planes movie......so while she gone, what she doesn't know won't hurt ME

I have those same LED turn signals for my dirtbike, which lives in the woods in very technical single track. I went through 4-5 different ones in just a few weeks time until I tried those. They've been going strong for over a year now, despite hitting quite a few trees, and gong through a lot of crashes. Not very bright though.

Thanks for the fuel filter write up. Looks pretty straight forward to install. Did you get your spare from inmate "Gefr?" He sells them from Greece for like 37 bucks VS about 150 from KTM.
I just ordered one from him.

Question:
I'm leaving on a 6000 mile trip out west next month, and will have about 9000 miles on the bike when I leave. Would you change the filter before leaving or just pack it as a spare and change when I get back? I'm not sure of the filter service intervals but yours sure looked dirty.

Thanks for the fuel filter write up. Looks pretty straight forward to install. Did you get your spare from inmate "Gefr?" He sells them from Greece for like 37 bucks VS about 150 from KTM.
I just ordered one from him.

Question:
I'm leaving on a 6000 mile trip out west next month, and will have about 9000 miles on the bike when I leave. Would you change the filter before leaving or just pack it as a spare and change when I get back? I'm not sure of the filter service intervals but yours sure looked dirty.

Yes I got it from Gefr. He makes you sign for it so something to be aware of.

I would not change it before your trip. If you had an issue....which I doubt, you could drop the tank and install it.

Well I got it all back together including new battery as the old one had a dead cell and would not charge (minus body panels) Now I got a MTC failure.....argggg So I took it all back apart just to double check everything. Originally I had an ABS failure, General Failure with engine light, and a MTC failure. I was in the tail section so I will pull it back apart to check.

Edit: Charged the battery. Still have a MTC failure flashing and check engine light. The LED resistors I took out and as already suggested the LEDs work fine just direct wired and have a normal flash rate. Not sure why I am getting the check engine light unless the MTC failure is causing that, I will have to research that.

Yep....fuel flows from right to left in the cross over line. Don't believe me, shut off the right hand side and see if you don't run out of fuel sooner even though it says you have fuel. The right hand side is where the fuel Gauge sensor/float is. ...............................

maybe I'm a bit slow, but what about the fuel that exits through the other fuel cock/tap? Fuel leaves the tank from both sides surely and you are then only re-filtering the one side?

maybe I'm a bit slow, but what about the fuel that exits through the other fuel cock/tap? Fuel leaves the tank from both sides surely and you are then only re-filtering the one side?

Never said it was perfect fix, just an easily added element that I can very quickly access and eval. If the inline filter I Can See is looking dirty, then the one I can not see....... I am not a very good Herd animal, Each can do as they see fit.

Fixed my MTC and Engine light issues.

Since there has been several pms asking I will post up how I did MY the filter change below. If it helps you great.

4 bolts on the bottom of tank hold it in place. The pump is wedged into the tank with an o ring but the hole is slightly wedged shaped as it forms a compression fitting. A small putty knife of screw driver is worked under the pump face to get it started, it then will pop right out. You will see the o ring, it still good but you can change it if you want. There are 2 metal side clips at the top of the pump and the lives there. slightly pry / apply pressure until the top filter housing is released and wiggle it free of the pump siphon shaft. Now you basically holding a cup with a lid on it like a travel coffee mug. I used a pare of needle nose pliers and began pulling and wiggling the lid out. You have to use some force and it will pop free, there is a spring in the bottom of the cup. The filter will fall out after this. The are now 2 bolts at the bottom of the pump to remove to get the filter sleeve out. Plus a little phillips head screw to release a power wire. once these are off you can replace the screen sleeve.

When I put it all back together I used a little but of di-electric grease on the stuff and it slips back together very easy. Why di-electric grease.....because its safe on plastic and rubber. after also lubing the main pump o ring I put it back into the tank, it will not fit flush. Insert 4 bolts and tighten, as yo tighten it will pull it flush by compressing the o ring.

Done......hope this helps and if I left something precise out it will be obvious when you do this, Very easy.

I like learning and sharing info even though at times on the forum some guys are asses about questions I really do believe this is what the forum is here for, to help each other and I am sure I will be asking one of the dumb questions guys rant about very soon

Yep....fuel flows from right to left in the cross over line. Don't believe me, shut off the right hand side and see if you don't run out of fuel sooner even though it says you have fuel. The right hand side is where the fuel Gauge sensor/float is. As shown in the photo below. I had to pull it today because of a broken wires.

Of course, fuel flows from the right side, but less than 1/2 the fuel is passed through the extra filter. Still not sure of the benefit of passing part of each tank full through an extra filter rather than the existing filters. Can you show a picture of the location of the external fuel filter?

__________________
Remember, you're reading this on the Internet and it was written by a guy who can remember stuff which never happened.
2014 KTM1190 Adventure R
2008 KTM300 XC (plated)
2008 KTM690 Enduro

Never said it was perfect fix, just an easily added element that I can very quickly access and eval. If the inline filter I Can See is looking dirty, then the one I can not see....... I am not a very good Herd animal, Each can do as they see fit.

Fixed my MTC and Engine light issues.

Since there has been several pms asking I will post up how I did MY the filter change below. If it helps you great.

4 bolts on the bottom of tank hold it in place. The pump is wedged into the tank with an o ring but the hole is slightly wedged shaped as it forms a compression fitting. A small putty knife of screw driver is worked under the pump face to get it started, it then will pop right out. You will see the o ring, it still good but you can change it if you want. There are 2 metal side clips at the top of the pump and the lives there. slightly pry / apply pressure until the top filter housing is released and wiggle it free of the pump siphon shaft. Now you basically holding a cup with a lid on it like a travel coffee mug. I used a pare of needle nose pliers and began pulling and wiggling the lid out. You have to use some force and it will pop free, there is a spring in the bottom of the cup. The filter will fall out after this. The are now 2 bolts at the bottom of the pump to remove to get the filter sleeve out. Plus a little phillips head screw to release a power wire. once these are off you can replace the screen sleeve.

When I put it all back together I used a little but of di-electric grease on the stuff and it slips back together very easy. Why di-electric grease.....because its safe on plastic and rubber. after also lubing the main pump o ring I put it back into the tank, it will not fit flush. Insert 4 bolts and tighten, as yo tighten it will pull it flush by compressing the o ring.

Done......hope this helps and if I left something precise out it will be obvious when you do this, Very easy.

I like learning and sharing info even though at times on the forum some guys are asses about questions I really do believe this is what the forum is here for, to help each other and I am sure I will be asking one of the dumb questions guys rant about very soon

Well I was tired and had to take the tank back off for like the 4th time.....and forgot to unplug it Its ok it works perfect now and I actually like my mod I did using the sae plug as I have lots of slack in case I ever forget again.

Ok, did so more stuff today and I do a lot of my own work even if I have never done it before on a KTM. Years ago I worked on aircraft.....probably best for all us that I went medical soon afterward The point being, I am no expert but just trying to post up anything I have learned along the way. Total time today to do it all was 6hrs

Pulled the exhaust. Pressure washed it, the Akra, the bash plate, and radiator. Installed the radiator guard. Painted the exhaust and Akra with high temp stove paint. If you have never used this stuff its made for wood burning stoves and I know personally I have had our stove Red hot glowing before and the paint has held up great. There is something in the paint because it dries with a very hard shell type coating. I wrapped the exhaust with lava wrap and once all done I burned it in for 20 minutes. The reason I coated the exhaust was to inhibit corrosion once I finished the wrap. Yep, I know some guys do not like wrap, I don't Care.

The exhaust removal is not really hard, just sort of labor intensive to remove and get to everything. The front top exhaust nut, you need to remove the radiator support/fuel cross over mount and push the mounting brace way up in the back to get to the nut. Also in the back the bottom right hand nut is in a of course an terrible position. Remove the exhaust banjo clamp, and slide a 12" extension up through the swing arm from the bottom. Put it all back together I put anit seize on everything as it never fails exhaust part can be tough to get off sometime. (But You Do As You See Fit).
Once you get it all unbolted it comes right off.Leave the rear exhaust header for last and then it will come right off after you unbolt the banjo clamp. Putting it all back together I mounted the headers and put the nuts on and hand tightened them then secured the rear banjo clamp. The tightened everything up then mounted the Akra and shield.

Cleaned and painted the bash plate and oven cured the enamel paint......thanks honey for the use of your oven.

As always this what I did and how I did it. Do as you see fit on Your Bike.

This is that front header bolt and the brace I mentioned

Rear banjo clamp and how to access that rear nut I talked about

With the bike running doing the burn in there is a huge amount of heat comes out of this area. Of course the fans are right here also. I think this may be the area to focus on getting rid of some heat. With the panel covering this that heat is forced
back.....just saying

Oh, and those small LED blinkers I installed. I think they are fairly bright. I just wired them directly and did not need a resistor.