The astonishing beauty of Dubrovnik, which
delights every traveler, seems like an eternal artifact created in a moment
of divine inspiration. The completeness of its forms and the similarity between
the cities as it actually is and as it is represented by the model on the
outstretched palm of the patron saint of the republic, St. Blaise (Sv. Vlaho),
seem to confirm this idea. However, if you enter within its walls (the "mire")
you will discover a city created by the enduring and persistent love of its
inhabitants, who have made it ever more harmonious, ever more peerless, through
the centuries, in spite of cataclysms and/unpropitious times. Therefore we
must go back to the beginning.

In spite of the efforts of historians through
several centuries, due to a lack of sources the time and circumstances in
which the city of Dubrovnik was founded remain shrouded in mystery. The failure
of scholarship to find the answer has, as in the case of most European cities,
opened up the way to legends. According to one of these, refugees from the
Roman city of Epidauros, which stood not far from the Cavtat of today up to
the time of the incursions by the Avars and the Slavs, founded Dubrovnik.
The inhabitants of Epidauros took refuge from the invaders on a small island
on which the new city was eventually to rise up. By this legend Dubrovnik
assured itself of a classical heritage.

According to another legend, the Slavic
King Pavlimir, on his return from exile in Italy, landed on \he east Adriatic
coast and founded Dubrovnik. Thus the city obtained the "Slavic"
version of its founding.

However, these legends tell us more about
the needs of the time in which they arose than about the time they speak of.
Today, scientific research results indicate that the Dubrovnik region has
been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times. Archeological finds confirm
the existence of Rauzia (Ragusium, Raguzius, Rausium), as Dubrovnik is called
in medieval sources, which was a large settlement as early as the 6th century.
It may be presumed that the see of the late Roman diocese of Epidauros was
transferred to Dubrovnik even before the fall of that city.

The lack of historical sources for the period
from the 7th to the 12th centuries makes it impossible to reconstruct in detail
the development of the city in the early Middle Ages. During this period,
Dubrovnik was under the sovereignty of the Byzantine emperor. It is recorded
that in 866/7 the city resisted an Arab siege for fifteen months and was finally
rescued by the Byzantine fleet.

The strength of 9th century Dubrovnik is
also illustrated by the fact that its ships transported the Croatian army
to Bari, where it fought with the Norman's against the Arabs. Two centuries
later, during the brief Norman rule over the city, ships from Dubrovnik also
fought in the Ionian Sea. The citizens of Dubrovnik were ready to take full
advantage of the period of economic growth, which prevailed in the Mediterranean
in the 12th century. During the previous period they had succeeded in constituting
their municipality and reducing the Byzantine rule over the city almost to
a purely formal one. The new economic boom during the period of the Crusades,
due to the fact that the Adriatic became one of the main routes leading from
Europe to the Levant, as well as to the development of the countries of the
Slavic hinterland, was to affirm Dubrovnik's trade on an international scale.
Trade became the basis of the city's development.

In this period one can already see the permanent
communal political conception of the city - the desire to be as emancipated
as possible from outside rule. This individualism was formed on the foundation
of a long tradition of political and cultural isolation of the city from the
countries of the hinterland, the economic interests of the municipality and
the social structure built thereon. An additional impulse was provided by
the elevation of the diocese to the rank of a metropolis, which apparently
occurred as early as 999.

The politically increasingly independent
municipality attempted to confirm its status and improve the conditions under
which its business was transacted by numerous treaties of friendship with
Adriatic and Mediterranean cities. Of special interest is the treaty made
with the city of Pisa in 1169 showing the extent of Dubrovnik's trade - from
central Italy to Constantinople - as well as the desire to stand up to its
main competitor on the Adriatic - the Venetian Republic. The parties to the
treaty tried to organize a trade route from Pisa via Ancona to Dubrovnik and
then by land to Constantinople. By forming an alliance with the then strongest
opponent of Venice, the citizens of Dubrovnik expressed their permanent political
orientation.

In the middle of the 12th century, the well-known
Arabian travel writer Idrisi wrote that the citizens of Dubrovnik had ships
and sailed far, and that the city was the last Croatian city to the south.
The rapid development of the Dubrovnik municipality was to be slowed down
by its falling into the power of the Venetian Republic in 1205. Venetian rule
was to continue until the mid - 14th century. Venice, the greatest Mediterranean
power, took advantage of the 4th Crusade to gain control over the entire east
Adriatic coast.

The Venetians fettered the maritime activities
of Dubrovnic, but land trade developed strongly, so that Dubrovnik gained
almost complete control over the flow of commodities in the Balkans. The numerous
trading colonies founded by the citizens of Dubrovnik throughout the countries
of the hinterland directed caravans towards the parent port, gaining great
profits in the process. The monopoly which the municipality achieved also
gave it an increasingly prestigious political influence in these countries.
In spite of the encroachments of the Venetians, the citizens of Dubrovnik
gradually managed to increase their independence. The city's elite achieved
control over the Venetian "knez" (rector) imposed on it. The processes
of development and the cult of freedom and individuality initiated in the
dawn of medieval Europe could not be suppressed even by the leading Mediterranean
power.

The most glorious pages of Dubrovnik's history
open with the great political change brought about by the Croatian-Hungarian
King Louis (Ludovik). After inflicting a military defeat on the Venetians,
he dictated the terms of the Zadar Peace Treaty of 1358, according to which
the Venetians had to give up their claim to the east Adriatic coast. The Dubrovnik
municipality became part of his large and powerful state. The new, continental
sovereign freed the fleet of Dubrovnik from the Venetian control, which had
fettered it for a century and a half. Now the flag of St. Blaise could freely
sail all the seas of the then known world, and the continental trade of Dubrovnik
acquired its natural extension.

The citizens of Dubrovnik exercised almost
complete control over the mining and sale of Bosnian and Serbian ores, which
were important an a European scale. The documents, which have been, preserved
show that in the course of only one year, 1422, a quantity of more than 5,672
kilograms of silver, amounting to over 1/5 of the total European production,
was exported through Dubrovnik. The extent of Dubrovnik's trade is also illustrated
by the fact that only one trading establishment, that of the brothers Kabuzic,
managed, within a relatively short period of time (1427-1432), to export about
3,500 kilograms of silver in a value of 100,000 Venetian ducats. Since this
was a type of silver, which contains a high percentage of gold, the above-mentioned
quantity also contained about 120 kilograms of this precious ore.

The ships of Dubrovnik carried these precious
loads from the homeport to the markets of Italy, France, Spain... On the return
voyage they brought back wool, which was the raw material of the growing cloth
manufacture. After the King of England banned foreigners from buying wool,
the merchants of Dubrovnik were unable to carry on their business, and there
was consequently a famine in a large part of southern England.

Due to the Turkish conquest of the Balkan
countries and the merciless competition, the Republic was unable to maintain
itself as one of the leading cloth producers.

Government measures encouraged the development
of shipbuilding, and soon ships from the Dubrovnik shipyards became a synonym
for high-quality and up-to-date vessels. The greatest seafaring people, the
English, thus adopted the word "argosy", derived from the Italian
form of the name for Dubrovnik (Ragusa), referring to a first-rate merchant
ship. The flag of Dubrovnik connected the most distant trading emporia of
the world as it was then known, and its largest vessels sailed for years without
calling in at their homeport. Numerous trading establishments did business
from British to Indian ports. It is estimated that the fleet of Dubrovnik
at that time was a match for the Venetian fleet.

On the political plane, the prosperous municipality
managed to emancipate itself completely from its sovereign and become an internationally
recognized political subject - the Dubrovnik Republic.

The highest government authority was the
Great Council, which included all the aristocrats who were of age. The Senate
and the Lesser Council were elected from their ranks. At the head of these
three organs was the Knez (rector) of the Republic, whose term of office was
only 30 days. This shows the desire of the patricians to prevent any individualization
of power. Collective government by the aristocracy remained a permanent characteristic
of the state of Dubrovnik until its fall.

The citizens were divided into three classes,
the patricians, "good citizens" and the plebeians. The "good
citizens" were a class which had grown rich and was economically as strong
as the aristocracy, but who were debarred from political power. By its wise
and skillful policies, the aristocracy of Dubrovnic succeeded in maintaining
this aristocratic republican system, without any significant political crises
or social tensions, down to the 19th century.

The expansion of the Turks into Europe posed
a threat to Dubrovnik's land trade, but the Republic successfully overcame
the crisis by restructuring its political relationships and its trade network.
Its diplomats obtained permission to trade with pagans from the Council of
Basel as early as 1433. Respecting political changes, Dubrovnik paid a tribute
to the Turks, but this did not impair its essential sovereignty. The tributary
relationship with the Porte was maintained until the fall of the Dubrovnik
Republic as an important segment of its independence and the legal basis of
its privileged commercial status in the enormous empire.

The Republic managed to convince both East
and West of the advantages of its survival. Neutralizing each of these influences
by the other, the citizens of Dubrovnik managed to stay out of the wars between
the Christians and the Turks, taking full advantage of wartime business opportunities.
Close ties were established with the King of Spain, who was then the master
of the Mediterranean. In the wake of his ships the Republic gained access
to the Atlantic, and it also took part in the expedition of the "lnvincibte
Armada". Individual citizens of Dubrovnik managed to achieve great success
and influence in countries ruled by the Spanish crown. Thus the respectable
merchant Miho Pracat, the only man to whom the Republic raised a monument,
even became a creditor of Charles V.

Due to the general recession prevailing
in the Mediterranean countries in the early 17th century, the economy of Dubrovnik
ceased to grow. The old rivalry between Dubrovnik and Venice was revived and
reached its merciless climax. The expansion of Dubrovnik's maritime activities
in the previous period had led the Venetian consul in London to complain to
his government that even the wine which he served at his table was transported
by ships from Dubrovnik. Much wisdom, diplomacy and personal sacrifice was
now required to maintain political neutrality in the numerous political intrigues
which ensued, since neutrality guaranteed what was most precious - liberty.
In the most difficult moments of its history the Republic enjoyed the crucial
support of the Roman Curia.

The economic recession, which brought with
it a social crisis, was soon interrupted by a terrifying cataclysm. The great
earthquake of 1667, which caused irreparable losses in human potential and
economic resources, shook the ancient state down to its foundations. Over
the burnt and ruined city there loomed a political crisis which threatened
it with total destruction. But sufficient courage and vitality was found in
Dubrovnik to overcome such apparently hopeless conditions.

The new, 18th century brought with it signs
of revival and in its second half an evident growth with a new expansion of
sea trade. The neutral flag of the city-state was the most valuable reference
of merchants from Dubrovnik. During the numerous crises, owing to the real
needs of the parties at war, the skillful patrician government, which had
great political sensitivity for the new age towards which Europe was heading,
ensured favorable business conditions. However, the second spring of the Dubrovnik
Republic was halted by Napoleon's occupation in 1806. The city walls were
unable to prevent the establishment of a new European order. The state of
Dubrovnik had managed to maintain itself for centuries by skillfully steering
a course between opposing powers in Europe and the Mediterranean. When Napoleon
succeeded in destroying the political balance, the Republic had to fall. The
attempt to restore it at the Vienna Congress failed because Europe no longer
needed republics.

For the following 100 years Dubrovnik was
relegated to a marginal status in the Habsburg Monarchy. Having lost its political
freedom, it seemed to have lost the reason for its existence. However, in
time it found its new role.

The heritage of Dubrovnik, primarily its
idea of liberty and its centuries-long, uninterrupted culture of European
rank became one of the main constitutive elements in the integration processes
taking place in the Croatian nation. The proud city of Dubrovnik embraced
this new role, recognizing in it a promise of new life.

After World War I Dubrovnik become part
of the Yugoslav state. It was then a small and economically neglected city,
but conscious of its glorious past. On the foundations of this consciousness
and its precious heritage, Dubrovnic grew up into a modern and authentic center
of culture and tourism, especially after World War II. The unique intermingling
of past and present, the harmony of its forms and the spirit of its inhabitants,
make it a place truly unique and incomparable, delighting every visitor.

This text is from the book "This is
Dubrovnik" (copyright(c) ITVM LTD. Dubrovnik. Author of the text is Ivica
Prlender)

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Set on a peninsula jutting into the Adriatic,
Dubrovnik is one of the prettiest places in the world. This medieval walled
city is 1000 years old and it is an architectural marvel. You can cross a
wooden bridge past gate towers, wind your way through the inner gate and enter
onto the Placa (or Stradun, as it is also known), the gleaming limestone street
that runs straight to the entrance gates at the other end of town. The present
structure of the city dates from the rebuilding that followed a devastating
earthquake in 1667. After a stroll down the Placa, take a tour of the city
walls. Built in the 11th century, the walls are 6 meters thick in places and
provide a gorgeous view of the Adriatic as well as an unforgettable glimpse
at the city they surround:the tiled roofs, the narrow pathways adorned with
window boxes, the small orange grove and field of the monastery. During your
walk along the wall, you can enter an interesting maritime museum and small
aquarium built within the St. John fortress.

For the most part, the external damage from
the siege of 1991-1992 has been repaired, although a map at the entrance to
the walls of the old city shows the buildings that were shelled during the
siege. More then half the city's structures were hit. As you stand on a high
point along the wall, you can tell which buildings have been repaired: The
bright new red tile roofs stand out dramatically from the ancient verdigris
tiles that escaped damage.

Other sites in the old town include the
Dominican and Franciscan monasteries (the Franciscan Monastery contains one
of the oldest pharmacies in the world), Rector's Palace, the Bell Tower clock,
Orlando's Column and the Rose Square in the Sponza Palace. Take a look at
the statue of St. Blaise, the city's patron saint, over the north city wall
and the painting of the saint on display in the Dominican monastery.

The origin of the name Dubrovnik

The today's name of Dubrovnik is derived from
the Croatian word Dubrava, which means oak wood. In the past, oak trees surrounded
the area of todays Dubrovnik. The Latin name Ragusa - Rausa, in use until
the 15th century, originated from the rock (lat. Lausa - meaning rock) where
the first settlement was established.

The Establishment of the Dubrovnik as a village

Dubrovnik was founded in the first half of
the 7th century by a group of refugees from Epidaurum (today's Cavtat). They
established their settlement at the island and named it the Laus. Opposite
of that location, at the foot of Srð Mountain, Slavs developed their own
settlement under the name of Dubrovnik (named by "Dub" - type of
wood). The settlements were separated by a channel which was filled in 12th
century, present Placa or Stradun, and since than the two settlements have
been united. At that time the city walls started to be built as a protection
from different enemies ( Arabs, Venetian, Macedonians, Serbs, etc.), who wanted
to conquer Dubrovnik.

The Government of Dubrovnik Republic

The Republican Constitution of Dubrovnik
was strictly aristocratic. The population was divided into three classes:
nobility, citizens, and artisans or plebeians. All effective power was concentrated
in the hands of nobility. The citizens were permitted to hold only minor offices,
while plebeians had no voice in government. Marriage between members of different
classes of the society was forbidden. The administrative bodies were the Grand
Council (supreme governing body) and the Small Council (executive power) (from
1238.) and the Senate (from 1253.). The head of the state was the Duke, elected
for a term of office for one month.
Grand Council (Veliko vijeæe) consisted of exclusively members of the
aristocracy; every noble took his seat at the age of 18.
Small Council (Malo vijeæe) consisted first of 11 members and after
1667. of 7. The Small Council was elected by the Knez or Rector.
The Senate (Vijeæe umoljenih) was added in 1235. as a consultative body.
It consisted of 45 invited members (over 40 years of age).
While the Republic was under the rule of Venice the Rector was Venetian, but
after 1358. the Rector was always a Ragusan.
The length of the Rector's service was only one month and a person was eligible
for re-election after two years. The rector lived and worked in Rector's Palace
but his family remained living in their own house.
The government of the Republic was liberal in character and early showed its
concern for justice and humanitarian principles, e.g. slave trading was abolished
since 1418.

The Statute of the Republic of Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik got its own Statute as early as 1272. and , among others, codified
Roman practice and local customs. The Statute included the town planning and
regulations of quarantine (hygienic reasons). The Republic of Dubrovnik was
very inventive regarding laws and institutions that were developed very early:
- medical service was introduced in 1301.
- the first pharmacy (still working) was opened in 1317.
- a refuge for old people was opened in 1347.
- the first quarantine hospital (Lazarete) was opened in 1377.
- slave trading was abolished in 1418.
- the orphanage was opened in 1432.
- the water supply system (20 kilometers) was constructed in 1436.

The History of the Dubrovnik Republic

From its establishment the town was under
the protection of the Byzantine Empire that helped Dubrovnik in the wars against
Saracens (886.- 887.), Bulgarian and Macedonians (988.), and Serbs (1184.).
After the Crusades Dubrovnik came under the sovereignty of Venice (1205.-1358.),
and by the Peace Treaty of Zadar in 1358. it became part of the Hungarian-Croatian
Kingdom. Having been granted the entire self-government, bound to pay only
a tribute to the king and providing assistance with its fleet, Dubrovnik started
its life as a free state that reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries.
In 1526. Dubrovnik acknowledged the supremacy of the Turkish Sultan (annual
tribute was paid to the Sultan). A crisis of Mediterranean shipping and especially
a catastrophic earthquake on the 6th of April 1667. that killed over 5000
citizens, including the Rector, levelling most of the public buildings, ruined
the well-being of the Republic.
With great effort the Republic recovered a bit, but still remained a shadow
of the former Republic. In 1806. Dubrovnik surrendered to French forces, as
that was the only way to cut a month's long siege by the Russian-Montenegrin
fleets (during which 3000 cannon balls fell on the city). The French lifted
the Russian-Montenegrin fleets and saved Dubrovnik for the time being. The
French army, led by Napoleon, entered Dubrovnik in 1806. In 1808. Marshal
Marmot abolished the Dubrovnik Republic (the name was in use from the 15th
C.).

The Territory of the Dubrovnik Republic

As it had good relations with its neighbours, Dubrovnik was allowed to trade,
trading both in the Orient and the Mediterranean. With numerous countries
and towns it had special agreements and was not paying taxes on goods sold
or transported trough some countries. During several centuries Dubrovnik grew
into the most powerful economic centre in the south of the Adriatic and it
developed a powerful fleet of merchant and war ships. Dubrovnik had over 200
merchant ships called Argosy.
At the Golden Period of Dubrovnik the territory of the Republic extended from
Klek-Neum in the north to Sutorina (Boka Kotorska) in the south and a few
kilometres inland. It included the islands of Šipan, Lopud and Koloèep
(after 1080.), Mljet (1141.) and
Lastovo (1216.), the town of Ston (1298.) and the Pelješac Peninsula (1399.).
The coastal territory of the Republic without islands was approximately 120
kilometres in length. Dubrovnik Republic also ruled Korèula, Braè
and Hvar for a brief period (1414.-1417.), but was forced to release them
to Venice.

The History of Dubrovnik from the End of
Republic until today

In 1809. Dubrovnik become part of the Ilyrian Provinces. In 1815., by the
resolution of Vienna Congress, Dubrovnik was annexed to Austria (later Austria-Hungary),
and remained annexed until 1918. when it became part of the Kingdom of Serbs,
Croats, and Slovenes. In 1929. the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes became
the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and was divided into 8 districts. Until 1939. Dubrovnik
was part of Zetska district and then was included in Banovina of Croatia.
At the very beginning of the World War II Dubrovnik was first part of the
Independent State of Croatia. From April 1941. until September 1943. Dubrovnik
was occupied by the Italian army and after that it was occupied by Germans.
In October 1944. Partisans liberated Dubrovnik from the Germans. In 1945.
Dubrovnik became part of the Federative People's Republic of Yugoslavia. In
1963. the Federative People's Republic of Yugoslavia changed its name into
Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia and was consisting of 6 republics.
Dubrovnik was part of the Socialistic Republic of Croatia. In 1990. the republics
of the Socialistic Federal Republic of Yugoslavia reached their independence.
The Socialistic Republic of Croatia was renamed into Republic of Croatia.
At October 1, 1991. Dubrovnik was brutally attacked by the Serbo-Montenegrin
army. The Serbo-Montenegrin siege of Dubrovnik lasted for seven months, and
in May 1992. the Croatian Army liberated Dubrovnik and its surroundings, but
the danger of Serbo - Montenegrin sudden attacks lasted for another three
years. Today, Dubrovnik is a free and safe town, worldly known, and the most
popular tourist destination in Croatia.