I went this week to purchase my new Pro Angler and was told i would need to order one due to the end of the season. In speaking with the gentleman he informed me that the 2012 would be released in August at the show in Utah.

I guess i wanted to see if anyone had heard anything about the 2012 model. I wanted to get some feedback if i should wait or just pull the trigger on a 2011 model. I have been reading the posts and asking question but fear that this will not subdue the hunger much longer. 2012 maybe worth it though depending on how long it takes for them to be available to consumers.

If the lean bar is an attachment and can be added to previous PA's, you might try to find a 2011 year end PA on sale. We got our Oasis when the new model came out and got the Hobie approved discount which paid for the heavy duty wheels.

The lean bar would be a huge aftermarket item for Hobie, and it is hard to believe that they wouldn't offer it as an aftermarket item.

The Hobie 'H-Bar' is only going to be sold as an aftermarket item through P&A catalog starting in the Fall (not standard equipment)

Nothing will change to the 2012' PA but maybe new 2012' pricing? (not sure on that and we haven't heard yet about next years pricing...but as always - cost of goods tend to go up annually)... so why delay?? Get on it!

A friend, who owns 2 Outbacks and his BIL who owns a Outback and a Revo have heard rumors that Hobie will have H-Bars for the OB and Revo.

Both of these guys are very good craftsmen, welders and pvc users. They have been eyeing/coveting the bar on my Freedom Hawk 12. I have told them that attaching a similiar bar to their Hobies without some type of stabilizer devices like the Sidekicks probably would not be wise.

Jbernier wrote:

The Hobie 'H-Bar' is only going to be sold as an aftermarket item through P&A catalog starting in the Fall (not standard equipment)

Nothing will change to the 2012' PA but maybe new 2012' pricing? (not sure on that and we haven't heard yet about next years pricing...but as always - cost of goods tend to go up annually)... so why delay?? Get on it!

The leaning post/bar for the PA makes a ton of sense. For the Outback and particularly for the Revolution, however, I can't see it.

Remember, it's possible to stand up on a log floating in the water if your balance is good enough. But I wouldn't call a floating log a good stand up fishing platform. Neither is the Outback nor the Revolution. Not without a really good ability to balance.

The PA, however, is much more stable for that kind of thing and I think any person of reasonable ability can easily stand in the PA without much danger. The H-Bary will allow you just that extra bit of ability to stand without being easily thrown off balance.

The leaning post/bar for the PA makes a ton of sense. For the Outback and particularly for the Revolution, however, I can't see it.

Remember, it's possible to stand up on a log floating in the water if your balance is good enough. But I wouldn't call a floating log a good stand up fishing platform. Neither is the Outback nor the Revolution. Not without a really good ability to balance.

The PA, however, is much more stable for that kind of thing and I think any person of reasonable ability can easily stand in the PA without much danger. The H-Bary will allow you just that extra bit of ability to stand without being easily thrown off balance.

I stand and fish from my outback fairly easily. The lean bar would make it just that much easier. Really don't see the need to add one to the PA seeing as its already so stable. I just see the bar being much more use full for the OB.

Changes I would liketo see:I would like to see some sort of molded in transducer location. I put mine in the bow so I can see if I am going over something that might interfere with the mirage drive. I would also like a better way to keep the seat down when towing, also the lock down levers for the mirage drive should have easy to see arrows on them so you know they go forward to lock, it's kind of inconvenient/dangerous when you enter swift moving water just outside of a channel (Hull gut, Massachusetts) and the drive keeps coming out because you didn't realize you were doing it wrong and it gets jammed so you can't get it out and you have to grab the paddle to get to an area where you can work on it. Then you notice the new turbo fin is now distorted/damaged becuse the tension adjustment has pulled out. It only happens once because it's quite a lesson learned.I have a 2009

Not to minimize your experience, but I believe the installation and removal procedure for the Mirage Drive can be found in the owner's manual. A manufacturer can only do so much - the user has to invest at least some amount of time in reading and perhaps doing a quick "shake down" cruise to make sure that he/she is familiar with the operation of the vessel.

The idea for a molded in transducer feature is great, but might run into trouble owing to the fact that there are many different size and shaped transducers on the market. Hobie does offer a foam transducer mount already cut for the common Lowrance/Eagle, and Garmin skimmer transducers. Others may fit as well. Use of this piece allows you to easily mount the transducer anywhere you wish. Like you, I mount mine forward of the Mirage Drive unit.

Changes I would liketo see: I would also like a better way to keep the seat down when towing,

I place my PA on the trailer with the bow pointing backwards towards the back of the trailer... The seat is then going with the air flow. Makes no difference on the gas milage either way... I just like having the seat laying with the wind!! Give it a try and see if there is any difference for you. Good luck

I just got the PA used and could not remember which way they lock, my mind was telling me they lock by pulling them back like a hook, but they lock in the opposite direction. If someone uses it other than me I'm sure they will think the same way if they find themselves in the same situation, I'll paint an arrow on them and replace the turbo fin.The transducer was installed twice before I got it and failed for the previous owner, so I would like a molded in wet style mount location. This would eliminate the issues like air bubbles in the adhesive or having it become dislodged. This is what I did for mine, and unless it's rough seas it works fine...so far.Even a jar type area with a removable cover, a cover that could be drilled/altered to mount the transducer and replaced if necessary when changing transducers.

Ecduzitgood- Thanks for the pic, but not sure I understand your transducer mount. Looks like you built a vertical wall perpendiculular the hull in the front compartment, and then mounted your transducer to a second vertical surface there? Do you then flood the area in front of the wall with water? Why not just use the foam block that fits the transducer and pour water in that? It's a lot less water (less than 1 oz) and from my experience, seems to work fine.

I wanted the ability to take the water out, the transducer is from the original owner and has a little rust. I pour one of my spring water bottles in. It's not the best way to go but it's out of the way in space that is unused. I'll take a current picture when I get home. I wanted to make sure it can be adjusted to face straight down and sealed the wood and I used stainless screws so if I have to, I can change the mounting post. The transducer is held in place with a nylon nut and bolt (Nylon to prevent the exposed metal on the transducer from reacting with a dissimilar metal while in the water). I have also considered vaseline so I would not have to refill the area and it would prevent spilling. I am still learning and experimenting. I hope to motorize this winter.