So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary!

So that's whose tracks were below Hessie! Erik Rieger and I managed to get up the long first pitch, though the crux was sportier than usual. Delicate moves rather far above gear. We removed a very large and dangerous flake near the top of the lower chimney (just below the midway ledge/stance). Probably 70 or 80 pounds. Scary!

Thanks for doin' all the leg work guys! I was going to check this out but... looks like I found my answer.

Good on ya' Dougald; we weren't up for the scrappyness today. Looked like the flood rains mainly washed a bunch of mud into the chimney rather than form ice! :( You're most welcome for the broken track; seemed like the line we took was easier than the approaches described here and in Jack's book. Thanks for the clean-up efforts.

No worries Andy, just trying to practice what I preach and sharing the wealth/info. Seems like there's not as much condition-reporting as in years past and I've been lamenting the lack of community spirit.

Went to Jewell Lake in RMNp on 11/19/13. Ice there was good. All Mixed Up looked huge (see left side of photo) and there were at least 4 big climbs to the right (east) of AMU. Might need snowshoes for that approach now. Farther up valley, Reflections looked big too.

Summit/Eagle Co conditions: Things have been great here in the high country. Lincoln has been in fat for over a month now. The road is gated so it requires a longer scenic walk in. 10 Mile has been building well and is now headed into an avi danger condition. Tony's, Fish, Round the Corner, and 3 Tiers are all in great shape. Upper Tiers is now out. No Shroud, but building slow. Firehouse has some early ice conditions so get your thin game on! Staircase is climbable as well as the pillars in the Belfry. Tourettes and Secret Prob in great shape. Ice is forming above 7th Testicle and the Fang and Desi are still a ways off. As always, there is a ton of drytooling in Vail to get your pump. Enjoy the early season conditions.

Made a quick trip up the Big Thompson Canyon to look at the Big T icefall (just in case). Found that the river is still quite high, old crossing is washed away, the far bank is going to be a pain to scramble up and over, and well, it just ain't ready.

We bailed and will wait for more river ice. It probably wasn't in anyway ;-)

Round the Corner and Right of Round the Corner on 11-24-13, long slog up loose snow over rocks and small boulders. After the wind storm over the weekend of the 16th there wasn't much snow on the approach, 1-2ft.

I did a trail run up Chicago Lakes 2 weeks ago and there was some good ice (maybe a pitch and a half of WI4) in above the bouldering area. I couldn't tell very well if the "The Road" was in but I would be surprised if its not. There is definitely some interesting ice in the drainage this year.

Did a Thanksgiving climb of Alexander's Chimney. Easy boot pack until Chasm Lake, some postholing from there to the first pitch. Ice is solid on the first three pitches, still good on the chockstone pitch and the ramp after, but not nearly as fat as a few weeks ago - definitely no screws now on the thin parts. Smear of Fear still looks fat (relatively speaking) too.

Deep Freeze in very good shape but thin, brittle top of crux pitch may disappear in predicted cold snap this week. First pitch (direct start) has ice in back of chimney then delicate traverse over fragile snow mushroom to first chockstone. Unique!