anyways this is obviously geting more and more useless. im gunna go try 8a and see if there are more climbers there than internet trolls which seem to have a firm grip on this site that could be a really useful tool for climbers every where. since none of you are generous enough to of much help i figured ill throw my own two cents into the can. for anyone reading this my advice in my own post is to eat healthy, work technique to perfection, learn the feeling that you get when you hit every single technique so that you can feel out the right positions first try on all but your hardest projects. feel plays a big role in climbing and if you can feel when you have the correct body position before you try to make a move it can greatly improve technique. also work directional pulling technique both with feet and hands. aka pulling in the direction of the hold weather it be with a toe pulling in a heel pulling down or a hand on an underling ect. now i just accomplished giving out more free tips in one post than all of you did in the last 15. also i have found significant improvement when combing calisthenics at a high intensity, push ups pull ups and sit ups and other simple exercises until failure, with my climbing and at this point very simple campus/hang board work outs. Comments like this is what the forum are designed for not ripping apart a new member because he happened to use the word smartass in a sentence.

sorry i am a full time college student with multiple jobs and its ridiculously inconvenient for me to get outside on any regular basis. and last i checked a 5 min mile on a treadmill is much much harder than a 5 min mile on a track, i know because i have done both. it was a shitty analogy. and also in context the number of times i climb was relevant try reading the post it was a response to.

I have asked the setter Evan (v12 climber) after i hit all the hard routes he sets to confirm the grades to make sure im not hitting the v6, v9s if you know what i mean. and i guess im best at steep overhangs with technical big moves. my slab technique is much worse by anything past 20 degrees is fine by me. my flat wall climbing is ok id say v5 v6 but thats a result of me not really trying to many flat wall problems as the flat wall at the edge is quite short with fairly simple problems set there.

anyways this is obviously geting more and more useless. im gunna go try 8a and see if there are more climbers there than internet trolls which seem to have a firm grip on this site that could be a really useful tool for climbers every where. since none of you are generous enough to of much help i figured ill throw my own two cents into the can. for anyone reading this my advice in my own post is to eat healthy, work technique to perfection, learn the feeling that you get when you hit every single technique so that you can feel out the right positions first try on all but your hardest projects. feel plays a big role in climbing and if you can feel when you have the correct body position before you try to make a move it can greatly improve technique. also work directional pulling technique both with feet and hands. aka pulling in the direction of the hold weather it be with a toe pulling in a heel pulling down or a hand on an underling ect. now i just accomplished giving out more free tips in one post than all of you did in the last 15. also i have found significant improvement when combing calisthenics at a high intensity, push ups pull ups and sit ups and other simple exercises until failure, with my climbing and at this point very simple campus/hang board work outs. Comments like this is what the forum are designed for not ripping apart a new member because he happened to use the word smartass in a sentence.

Oh my lord. It's like searching for a grain of truth in a stream of mental diarrhea.

I mentioned 9 out of 10 climbers earlier. That book is about determining how to most effectively use the limited time you have to train, and how to determine what portions of your training you are waiting your time on. It seems like it would be pretty close to what you are looking for.

sorry i am a full time college student with multiple jobs and its ridiculously inconvenient for me to get outside on any regular basis. and last i checked a 5 min mile on a treadmill is much much harder than a 5 min mile on a track, i know because i have done both. it was a shitty analogy. and also in context the number of times i climb was relevant try reading the post it was a response to.

anyways this is obviously geting more and more useless. im gunna go try 8a and see if there are more climbers there than internet trolls which seem to have a firm grip on this site that could be a really useful tool for climbers every where. since none of you are generous enough to of much help i figured ill throw my own two cents into the can. for anyone reading this my advice in my own post is to eat healthy, work technique to perfection, learn the feeling that you get when you hit every single technique so that you can feel out the right positions first try on all but your hardest projects. feel plays a big role in climbing and if you can feel when you have the correct body position before you try to make a move it can greatly improve technique. also work directional pulling technique both with feet and hands. aka pulling in the direction of the hold weather it be with a toe pulling in a heel pulling down or a hand on an underling ect. now i just accomplished giving out more free tips in one post than all of you did in the last 15. also i have found significant improvement when combing calisthenics at a high intensity, push ups pull ups and sit ups and other simple exercises until failure, with my climbing and at this point very simple campus/hang board work outs. Comments like this is what the forum are designed for not ripping apart a new member because he happened to use the word smartass in a sentence.

Oh my lord. It's like searching for a grain of truth in a stream of mental diarrhea.

I mentioned 9 out of 10 climbers earlier. That book is about determining how to most effectively use the limited time you have to train, and how to determine what portions of your training you are waiting your time on. It seems like it would be pretty close to what you are looking for.

taylortreadgold wrote:

sorry i am a full time college student ...

Gah! Why do you make it so easy?

Second person in a row to use an either bad or inappropriate (in a lingual sense) analogy. could you please point out why what i said was 'mental diarrhea" and why your comment wasnt much of the same.

sorry i am a full time college student with multiple jobs and its ridiculously inconvenient for me to get outside on any regular basis. and last i checked a 5 min mile on a treadmill is much much harder than a 5 min mile on a track, i know because i have done both. it was a shitty analogy. and also in context the number of times i climb was relevant try reading the post it was a response to.

I think you should ask for your money back...it is clearly not working.

Oh my lord. It's like searching for a grain of truth in a stream of mental diarrhea.

I mentioned 9 out of 10 climbers earlier. That book is about determining how to most effectively use the limited time you have to train, and how to determine what portions of your training you are waiting your time on. It seems like it would be pretty close to what you are looking for.

Second person in a row to use an either bad or inappropriate (in a lingual sense) analogy. could you please point out why what i said was 'mental diarrhea" and why your comment wasnt much of the same.

The analogy is apt. When I used the term "mental diarrhea" I was referring to the flow of your text. There seems to be no control of it once it starts. It just kind of spews out across the screen. Punctuation, capitalization, and some basic formatting makes a big impact on readability.

Notice above, how I separated my comments on your formatting from my book recommendation? That is a large part of what is separating my posts, which may be of dubious helpfulness, from your "mental diarrhea".

Seriously, the book I recommended has nothing to do with grammar or writing style, and you might find it helpful.

Heres the deal guys not a single one of you know who i am or my educational background. Sorry I skipped on perfect grammar ect. Next time i make a post ill make sure it is perfect both in a grammar sense and make sure it flows better so you guys don't have to think at all to answer the questions. Sorry its too hard for you to read without it being perfectly formatted. Most people assume the internet has more of a speaking tone as opposed to a scholarly tone which you all obviously needlessly expected from me. If guys want me to type perfectly and put together a well written essay i will. But this is the internet and its filled with know nothing trolls so i passed on perfection. If you care to do some research about my education go Google Williams college in Williamson mass and get back to me. Spoiler alert Forbes would like to call it one of the top 3 schools period in the country each of the last 3 years. now however i am an atmospheric science major at the university at albany, one of the best atmospheric science programs in the country. And yes i am bragging some but only because you all seem to think your a bunch of god damn savants. So just because i don't use perfect grammar on a god damn internet forum meant for climbing and not a fucking peer review team on my grammar doesn't mean you should jump the outlandishly incorrect and abrupt conclusion that a. you know me or that b. your smarter than me in any manor. Im never going to use this site again for advice since not one of you can do any better than direct me to some book. And im quickly starting to think that most of you who replied here don't know your shit and have no business even being on a tread about technique/training. Thats just how i see it tho. All this post needed was a few helpful tips and it could have been done with. Instead however, it turned rather quickly into this bull shit waste of time that guys facilitated. Good day.

First off i have no respect for anyone who uses the term butt hurt what are you a high school bro from cali. get over yourself all i asked for was a few damn tips with one sentence that you clearly all thought was the worst thing you ever read. and yeah read my above post and call me dumb again.

First off i have no respect for anyone who uses the term butt hurt what are you a high school bro from cali. get over yourself all i asked for was a few damn tips with one sentence that you clearly all thought was the worst thing you ever read. and yeah read my above post and call me dumb again.

No, this was the worst thing I ever read:

In reply to:

Heres the deal guys not a single one of you know who i am or my educational background. Sorry I skipped on perfect grammar ect. Next time i make a post ill make sure it is perfect both in a grammar sense and make sure it flows better so you guys don't have to think at all to answer the questions. Sorry its too hard for you to read without it being perfectly formatted. Most people assume the internet has more of a speaking tone as opposed to a scholarly tone which you all obviously needlessly expected from me. If guys want me to type perfectly and put together a well written essay i will. But this is the internet and its filled with know nothing trolls so i passed on perfection. If you care to do some research about my education go Google Williams college in Williamson mass and get back to me. Spoiler alert Forbes would like to call it one of the top 3 schools period in the country each of the last 3 years. now however i am an atmospheric science major at the university at albany, one of the best atmospheric science programs in the country. And yes i am bragging some but only because you all seem to think your a bunch of god damn savants. So just because i don't use perfect grammar on a god damn internet forum meant for climbing and not a fucking peer review team on my grammar doesn't mean you should jump the outlandishly incorrect and abrupt conclusion that a. you know me or that b. your smarter than me in any manor. Im never going to use this site again for advice since not one of you can do any better than direct me to some book. And im quickly starting to think that most of you who replied here don't know your shit and have no business even being on a tread about technique/training. Thats just how i see it tho. All this post needed was a few helpful tips and it could have been done with. Instead however, it turned rather quickly into this bull shit waste of time that guys facilitated. Good day.

Heres the deal guys not a single one of you know who i am or my educational background. Sorry I skipped on perfect grammar ect. Next time i make a post ill make sure it is perfect both in a grammar sense and make sure it flows better so you guys don't have to think at all to answer the questions. Sorry its too hard for you to read without it being perfectly formatted. Most people assume the internet has more of a speaking tone as opposed to a scholarly tone which you all obviously needlessly expected from me. If guys want me to type perfectly and put together a well written essay i will. But this is the internet and its filled with know nothing trolls so i passed on perfection. If you care to do some research about my education go Google Williams college in Williamson mass and get back to me. Spoiler alert Forbes would like to call it one of the top 3 schools period in the country each of the last 3 years. now however i am an atmospheric science major at the university at albany, one of the best atmospheric science programs in the country. And yes i am bragging some but only because you all seem to think your a bunch of god damn savants. So just because i don't use perfect grammar on a god damn internet forum meant for climbing and not a fucking peer review team on my grammar doesn't mean you should jump the outlandishly incorrect and abrupt conclusion that a. you know me or that b. your smarter than me in any manor. Im never going to use this site again for advice since not one of you can do any better than direct me to some book. And im quickly starting to think that most of you who replied here don't know your shit and have no business even being on a tread about technique/training. Thats just how i see it tho. All this post needed was a few helpful tips and it could have been done with. Instead however, it turned rather quickly into this bull shit waste of time that guys facilitated. Good day.

Perhaps counseling from a professional psychologist is in order as you seem to be deeply conflicted and overly sensitive with feelings of inadequacy since you keep mentioning spelling and grammar over and over, ever since your first post. There's also the justification by proxy of the school you attend and your climbing level.

Here's a hint: no one cares about your school or your climbing ability. There are better and worse climbers and there are kids who graduate from the best schools at the bottom of their class - or they flunk out. Maybe you're next?

It's just phenomenally easy to push your buttons and get your panties in a bunch. Again, it was you who aggressively brought up spelling and grammar in your first post. It was you who kept digging yourself a deeper hole. It is you who hasn't learned when to shut up. And it's you who hasn't learned that on a net discussion forum, the way you write, spell, and format is one of the key evaluators of how seriously people take you.

You have much to learn. Right now it seems you should be practicing saying "Would you like fries with that?" and helping remodel your parent's basement.

First off i have no respect for anyone who uses the term butt hurt what are you a high school bro from cali. get over yourself all i asked for was a few damn tips with one sentence that you clearly all thought was the worst thing you ever read. and yeah read my above post and call me dumb again.

sorry i am a full time college student with multiple jobs and its ridiculously inconvenient for me to get outside on any regular basis. and last i checked a 5 min mile on a treadmill is much much harder than a 5 min mile on a track, i know because i have done both. it was a shitty analogy. and also in context the number of times i climb was relevant try reading the post it was a response to.

I think you should ask for your money back...it is clearly not working.

hey guys im trying to step my climbing game up some. ive been climbing for alittle over 2 and a half years and am around a v9 climber inside but i wanna push myself up to that next level. i wouldnt say ive plateaued as im obviously still improving but i wanna keep facilitating the improvement without risking to many injuries. i also want to improve my outdoor bouldering as its not quite as strong, likely a factor of me not gettin out to boulder too often.. any tips to bust into the double digits inside and outside? ive just started campus boardin and it seems to help some but beyond that any more tips . ive checked around the internet for various tips but i figured id through it out to the public for some help. also i dont care about grammar so no smartass comments about my lack of capitalization ect.thanks -taylor

I can't help but bite....

You want help getting better but you say you're still getting better and you don't give enough detail for any of us to help.

Is strength your issue? Technique? Should you post a video of you climbing? Is it that when you climb indoors you climb V9 and when you climb outdoors you climb V5? What exactly is it that you want help with? Specifying that and not getting so up in arms about people acting pretty typical of an internet forum seems like a better use of your time.

Thank you for the helpful post. I honestly don't know my limiting factor as i am a fairly rounded individual and climber. I would guess finger strength possibly would be one of my weaknesses. My technique is pretty solid but obviously it can always be better. I don't know if i have a specific weakness that is blatantly obvious, but i also cant see myself climb. A video would possibly be of some use next time i go out maybe ill take one. My indoor outdoor span isnt quite that wide. Id say im closer to a v7 climber outside as of now but on anything on a flat wall v5 would be true. slab possibly alittle lower. Im deff better on anything past like 10 or 15 degrees over hanging.

I'm not totally sure how we can help you. I know "how to climb 5.12" has a survey in the front where you answer questions and it tells you your weakness (everyone has one).

Another way to figure out what you're not good at is to ask your friends. Usually when people watch you climb, they have a better perspective (particularly compared to people on the internet who know nothing about you.) There have to be better climbers than you at the gym.

One of the things that I find helped me improve with technical moves and slab is a game we call "ninja climbing". I'm a route climber, so what we'll do is start up a climb about 1-2 grades lower than what I onsight and start up climbing, and if my partner hears my feet hit the wall at all, they lower me and I have to start over until I can do the route totally silently. This should help you figure out footwork which in my opinion is the most integral part of route climbing. Though I'm a smaller girl so I don't get to muscle through things like lots of guys can. You can probably do it with bouldering too, but I would have an outsider listen to your feet because sometimes when you get tired/frustrated, you cheat a little (at least I would if I didn't have someone dropping me).

I'm not sure how big of a span indoor to outdoor goes in bouldering (and I guess it depends on your gym) but for route climbing, that seems like a big gap for me, I climb the same grade indoors and outdoors. Living in Albany, could you get to the gunks/dacks to go bouldering more on weekends? I understand being a student (I'm a PhD student) but if you really wanna improve, the best way to do it is just to climb. If you wanna get good at climbing outdoors, you need to climb outdoors a lot. (unless you have a specific weakness that you're working on indoors)

This reminds me a lot of all my female climbing friends. They would all whoop my ass on most slab climbs lol. My freshman year they set a route up the slab face we had at our college wall and i think like 5 of the girls hit it like just crushed it while all us guys flopped around. I only managed to hit the route once but i think improving my slab footwork might be a good start.

What i think might be more of the problem is me not putting enough weight on my feet when i slab/ climb outdoors. Now that i really think about it i feel like i really over use my hands on flat walls and slabs. Thanks for the advice as i had basically forgotten about that route.

Also luckily I don't have as much of a problem going outdoors to sport climb, no real grade difference there. I have also done a lot more outdoor sport climbing though.

Yeah there is quite a few of us close friends in the 8-10 range and no need to stalk just ask for taylor. You clearly dont spend much time there otherwise youd know me and the rest of the hard boulders seein as were there 4 or 5 times a week.

Now your just being a smart ass to other people and it sounds like you don't have fun climbing because you worry to much on the number.

Not really i was simply pointing out the fact that i know most of the people there and most regulars know all of the climbers. Were actually helpful and willing to help everyone out with technique and beta regardless of skill level. so im surprised he doesnt know me or any of the other good climbers. Aka he must not go often.

It was not meant to be a rude response were not exactly the minority. He was creepin so i told him to intoduce himself so i could change his opinion of me.

And honestly i have an amazing time climbing i spent 80% percent of the three hrs i was at the gym today workin problems well below my max just for fun and to figure out beta with my friends and all the other climbers.