Spicy Noodles, Steamed Buns Are Staple Chinese Snacks

April 15, 1993

The Chinese relish their snack foods, some of which could be considered a full meal by Westerners. The following recipes for noodles and steamed buns can be part of a multicourse Chinese meal or alone make a simple Sunday supper.

SPICY NOODLES

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Adapted from a recipe in "A Taste of China" by Ken Hom.

1/2 pound ground pork

3 tablespoons dark soy sauce

3 teaspoons salt

1 cup peanut oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

5 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

2 tablespoons Oriental sesame paste or peanut butter

2 tablespoons chili oil

1 cup rich chicken broth

12 ounces fresh or 8 ounces dried Chinese thin egg noodles

1 tablespoon Szechwan peppercorns, roasted, ground (see note)

1. Mix pork, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a small bowl. Heat a wok or skillet until it is hot. Add the oil and heat until hot. Deep-fry the pork, stirring with a spatula to break it into small pieces. When the pork is crispy and dry, about 4 minutes, remove it with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

3. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling water 2 minutes if they are fresh or 5 minutes if they are dried. Drain the noodles well in a colander. Divide the noodles into individual bowls or put them in a large soup tureen. Ladle on the sauce; garnish with fried pork and peppercorns and serve at once.

Note: To roast peppercorns, put them into a small skillet or baking pan. Cook, stirring often, over medium heat, or in a 350-degree oven, until lightly toasted and fragrant. (Watch carefully so they don't burn.) Immediately transfer to a plate to cool. Grind in a spice grinder, electric coffee mill or mortar and pestle until powdery.

STEAMED ROAST PORK BUNS

Preparation time: 1 hour

Rising time: 2 1/2 hours

Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 16 servings

Adapted from "The Best of China" by Evie Righter, recipes by Grace Wiertz Young.

Dough:

1 package active dry yeast

3/4 cup warm water (110 degrees)

4 cups bread flour, about

1/4 cup warm milk (110 degrees)

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup vegetable shortening

Filling:

1/2 pound roast pork, diced

1/2 cup rich chicken broth

1/3 cup minced green onions

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 teaspoon soy sauce

3/4 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. For dough, dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of the warm water in a small bowl about 5 minutes or just until it begins to bubble. Put 4 cups flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the yeast mixture, remaining 1/2 cup warm water, milk, sugar and shortening. Stir to combine until a dough forms and is no longer sticky. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 5 to 8 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. Transfer dough to a clean bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Let rest in warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

3. Punch down dough; turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Divide dough into 16 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and flatten into a 4 1/2- to 5-inch round. Put 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center, gather the edges around filling and pinch the top together. Turn the bun over and put on a 2-inch square of waxed paper. Cover with a dampened cloth. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Let rise until almost doubled, 25 to 30 minutes.

4. Put as many of the risen buns in a bamboo steamer as can comfortably fit, leaving at least 1 1/2 inches between the buns. Cut a 1/2-inch cross on each bun so the buns can open slightly as they steam. Cover steamer with bamboo lid. Heat about 3 cups water to a boil in a covered wok. Put covered steamer in wok, and steam until buns are almost doubled in size and are cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Check the water level after 5 minutes and replenish if necessary. Repeat steaming process with remaining buns. Serve immediately.

Note: These buns can be made several hours before serving. Leave at room temperature up to 1 hour or refrigerate until serving time. Reheat by putting buns in bamboo steamer and steaming to heat through, about 5 minutes.