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Seville Off the Beaten Path

A midwesterner girl who turn down a job in radio for the siesta lifestyle, I live, work and tapear in Seville, Spain. As curious as I am hungry, my free time is usually spent roaming the Andalusian capital, on the lookout for new tapas joints, interesting 'rincones', or corners, of my adoptive city, or at home having a nap.
I also contribute to Rough Guides to Andalucia, The Local Spain and several blogs, as well as maintaining my own expat site, Sunshine and Siestas. To make it to the end of the month, I run a small language academy and do freelance recording work.

Seville's tourist path is well trodden. Apart from being home to three UNESCO World Heritage sites, southern Spain's capital city has been shaped by major entities such as Columbus, the Moors, and a recent Iberoamerican Fair. But Seville holds far more mystery than meets the eye, and beneath its glossy surface is a history and culture that most tourists don't see.

Good for

History Buff

Art and Architecture Lover

Luxury Traveller

Thrifty Traveller

Like a Local

9 Places

3 City Tips

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Map

9 Places

Triana

Neighbourhoods

Centro Cultural Santa Clara

Speciality Museums, Points of Interest & Landmarks

Archaeological Ensemble of Italica

Ancient Ruins

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne

Restaurants

Casa de la Memoria

Performances

Aire de Sevilla

Spas, Gift & Speciality Shops

Taberna Alvaro Peregil

Restaurants

Torre de los Perdigones

Observation Decks & Towers, Points of Interest & Landmarks, Lookouts

Onrador Del Convento de San Leandro

Restaurants

Triana

Seville, Spain

Centro Cultural Santa Clara

Calle Becas s/n, 41002 Seville, Spain

Archaeological Ensemble of Italica

Avenida Extremadura 2 | Santiponce, 41080 Seville, Spain

Freiduria Puerta de la Carne

Calle Puerta de La Carne N 0 2, 41004 Seville, Spain

Casa de la Memoria

Calle Cuna 6 | Centro historico, 41004 Seville, Spain

Aire de Sevilla

Calle Aire 15, 41004 Seville, Spain

Taberna Alvaro Peregil

Calle Mateos Gago 20, 41004 Seville, Spain

Torre de los Perdigones

Calle Resolana s/n, Seville, Spain

Onrador Del Convento de San Leandro

Plaza San Ildefonso 1, 41003 Seville, Spain

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Triana

Neighbourhoods

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Centro Cultural Santa Clara

Speciality Museums, Points of Interest & Landmarks

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Archaeological Ensemble of Italica

Ancient Ruins

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Freiduria Puerta de la Carne

Restaurants

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Casa de la Memoria

Performances

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Aire de Sevilla

Spas, Gift & Speciality Shops

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Taberna Alvaro Peregil

Restaurants

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Torre de los Perdigones

Observation Decks & Towers, Points of Interest & Landmarks, Lookouts

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Onrador Del Convento de San Leandro

Restaurants

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Cat G's City Tips

Museums, sites, and restaurants tend to close one day a week, and may have seasonal opening times. It's wise to check with the tourism office for hours, reduced fares, or events.

Noise pollution is real in Spain. If you're not into loud locals and crowded bars, you're better off steering clear of the city center.

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Triana

Neighbourhoods

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Cat G Says:

Once known as the gypsy and mariner neighborhood, Triana oozes old Sevillano charm, just don't say that to the locals — 'trianeros' like to distinguish themselves from their across-the-river counterparts! There isn't much to see by way of churches or museums here, so spend your time getting lost in Triana's tangle of cobblestoned streets, popping into taverns and markets along the way. Triana is all about feeling.

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Must See

Trendsetter

Hidden Gems

Like a Local

Art and Architecture Lover

Nightlife Seeker

Tips

The last week of July each year, Calle Betis hosts Velá Santa Ana, where fried fish is served on the street. Holy Week is also a big draw to this neighborhood.

Triana packs a lot of flamenco punch (residents sometimes claim it was invented here!). Ask a bartender where to catch a show, or if there is any "jaleo" going on.

Plan to be near the river at dusk. The way the sun hits the Old Town is unbeatable, and Triana's Calle Betis offers front-row seats at its bars and restaurants.

Trianeros live in the streets, so look for packed bars and watering holes, and plan to stay here until the wee hours, whether in a thumping disco or at a flamenco bar.

Housed in a gorgeous Almohad palace, which served as a convent until 1998, Centro Cultural Santa Clara is one of Seville's newest cultural centers, featuring offbeat exhibitions and music festivals. Such a historically significant and architecturally stunning building seems the ideal place to celebrate and protect the unique culture of Seville, with seasonal exhibits on anything from flamenco to local literature.

Good for

Peace and Quiet Seeker

Art and Architecture Lover

Trendsetter

Hidden Gems

Tips

The majority of the building is wheelchair accessible, including the restrooms.

Itálica is actually in the town of Santiponce, 9km (5.5mi) northwest of Seville's city center. Founded in the second century BC, this important archaeological site was one of the earliest Roman settlements in Spain, and the birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian (of Hadrian's Wall fame). Today, you can visit the well-preserved ruins in a few hours, taking in an amphitheater, the original Roman road, ancient dwellings, and beautiful mosaics.

Good for

Peace and Quiet Seeker

Must See

Solo

Friends

History Buff

Senior

Family

Art and Architecture Lover

Tips

The archaeological site is not suitable for those with reduced mobility.

Take public bus M-172A from Plaza de Armas bus station. The trip takes around 30 minutes, and you'll be let off right in front of the complex.

There isn't much shade on the grounds, so bring along proper sun protection.

Psst... history buffs! Remnants of the Punic rule remain all over Seville — check Barrio Santa Cruz and the Metropol Parasol.

Fried fish might just be Seville's most famous food, and no one does 'fritura' like Freiduría Puerta de la Carne. In business since the 1929 Iberoamerican Fair, the joint serves little else but fried fare — battered in flour, thrown into a pan filled with hot olive oil, and served in a paper cone. There's little fanfare, but there doesn't need to be — locals flock to this restaurant for the food and the service, particularly on Sundays and holidays.

Good for

Thrifty Traveller

Hidden Gems

Like a Local

Tips

Seating is limited, but you can also eat your food outside in the adjacent Jardines de Murillo.

If you're not a fish eater, you can also order potato chips or croquettes.

Order here by the quarter, half, or full kilo. Prices are based on weight, and cash is the preferred method of payment.

What began as a project to preserve Sephardic history in the Santa Cruz neighborhood has grown into one of the most highly regarded flamenco shows in a city filled with overpriced offerings. A small museum and patio introduce visitors to the basics of the dance, as well as its history and most distinguished personalities, and then there is the show itself. Casa de la Memoria attracts some of the best artists in flamenco, and its intimate atmosphere ensures a memorable introduction to flamenco.

Good for

Art and Architecture Lover

Trendsetter

Nightlife Seeker

Tips

Alcohol is not served during the show, in order to ensure that the focus is on the artistry itself.

Seating is first come, first served. Doors open about 30 minutes before the show begins.

Flamenco shows occur nightly in two shifts, though weekend nights sometimes see three shows, according to demand.

Paying homage to the public baths that were fundamental to both Roman and Arab cultures, Aire de Sevilla is a modern spa and bathhouse with Old World echoes. Situated on the site of ancient Arab baths (with Roman foundations) in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, the 16th-century mansion bears classic 'mudejar' style, replete with stone arches and stunning lanterns.

Good for

Peace and Quiet Seeker

Luxury Traveller

Trendsetter

Solo

Friends

Couples

Art and Architecture Lover

Tips

Pay a bit extra for the Moroccan tea and cookies! You'll get to lounge in the beautiful central patio for a while longer.

If you need to relax a bit more, it's only a handful of euros extra to add 30 minutes of bath time.

This is not a place for families — guests are asked to maintain silence at all times.

You can opt to just visit the baths or get a package that includes a massage treatment, water ritual, or other spa treatments.

Just steps from the tourist meccas of Barrio Santa Cruz and the cathedral, this hole-in-the-wall snack bar is known for its made-to-order sandwiches and orange wine. Álvaro Peregil, son of the famous flamenco singer Pepe Peregil, converted his great-grandfather's wine store into this tavern, which he owned until his death in 2012. It's with good reason that the rickety tables on the sidewalk are always filled with locals!

Good for

Foodie

Thrifty Traveller

Hidden Gems

Like a Local

Solo

Friends

Couples

Nightlife Seeker

Tips

The house specialties are orange wine (called "vino dulce de naranja") and snails, particularly during the springtime.

Befor 10pm, you can often order a liter of wine (called a "garrafa") to go.

The women's bathroom is located next door at the back of the facility (bring a few napkins just in case!).

No credit cards are accepted, and small bills are preferred.

If you're looking for more fare, Álvaro Peregil restaurant next door serves up typical favorites, though the real charm is with the curmudgeonly servers at the bar.

While most tourists climb the Giralda or the Metropol Parasol (an architectural newcomer), you'll get a different sort of bird's-eye view by visiting Torre de los Perdigones. Located just outside the city center and standing 45 meters (147 feet) tall, the observation deck holds a cámera oscura, a type of camera that allows light and mirrors to create a sort of moving picture of the Old Town.

Convent sweets have long been beloved by locals, and now the cloistered nuns at convents around the city are peddling their wares to the greater public. The Convent of San Leandro is one of the city's biggest producers of sweets, most notably their 'Yemas de San Leandro,' made with egg yolks, sugar, and lemon zest. You can have them packaged up for your afternoon coffee or to take back home.

Good for

Foodie

Thrifty Traveller

Art and Architecture Lover

Hidden Gems

Like a Local

Tips

While you're ordering your sweets, take a moment to view the beautiful church — it's worth a few minutes.

Only cash is accepted, and smaller bills are preferred.

Also notable for their sweets are Convento de Santa Paula and Convento de San Inés.