Audi A4 Clutch Replacement

Removing The Slave Cylinder And The Transmission Bolts

Once the bolt is out, slide the slave cylinder out. Little room to work with, so be patient.

Next step is to remove all of the transmission to engine bolts. There are a total of 9 bolts and the diagram below will show their locations. This is looking from the rear of the transmission.

9. Start by removing bolts 1, 2, and 3. Shot of the passenger side.

You can try and use a wrench to remove the 16mm bolts from the transmission but I find that there is an easier way. Connect two 2' extensions, a swivel and reach from behind the transmission. Play around with the position because there is stuff that will get in the way. Maybe easier if you disconnected the shifter rods first. If you need more room, remove the transmission mounts and tilt the trans+engine down.

Finally reach in with your hand and put the socket on. This is a shot of the passenger side. FYI, these bolts were on tight. There is some kind of hose in the way so space is limited, but it is possible to remove the top bolts using this method.

10. Continuing down the passenger side of the transmission. Remove 4 and 5. Fairly easy to get out. You may have to use a 16mm open ended wrench to reach #5. You do not have to remove the starter.

11. Drivers side of the transmission. Remove 8 and 9. Pretty straight forward.

probably bent the shift rod or the thing he said not to bend and be careful with when putting the transmission back in. if so ive seen a post where a guy made that mistake so he just bent them back and it worked for him. just be sure to look into more before attemting

What do you mean by, "no gears worked"? Were you able to put the shifter into the gears but the car did not move? You may have installed the clutch backwards. I've seen it happen. When you installed the clutch did you properly tighten down the pressure plate all the way and was the clutch disc secured tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate? Without more details it could be anything - wrong parts, bent shift rod, backwards clutch, slave and/or master cylinder may need bleeding, etc...

Thanks for the great write-up. It was very helpful on our '96 A4 Quattro. The only thing i did differently was how i installed the slave cylinder. I found another write-up that recommended to grease up the the rubber boot while avoiding the end of the piston. This allowed me to seat the slave cylinder by hand without using a bent screw driver. this was much easier. I had the slave cylinder in under 5 minutes.

I recently did this job and this guide was quite helpful. On my early 99betwo, there were a few differences.

1. Needed to remove the precat o2 sensors. I couldnt squeeze the pipes between the frame and mount with the sensors on. Borrowed the 22mm tool from autozone and used a 2' extension from the top.

2. Was able to get the top transmission bolts with a 3/8 drive 6 point socket and an adaptor to 1/2 drive ratchet. Was not able to get them with the multiple long extension method. Too much stuff in the way made it hard to properly engage the socket and the long extensions gave too much play.

3. Bolt 6 requires 16mm offset wrench.

4. Wasnt able to get the 8mm hex on the shifter linkage. Was off by millimeters with my hex tool. Proly coulda hunted down a smaller tool. Instead i loosened it from the inside, moved the transmission back a tad, and was then able to access the bolt.

Thanks i had a buddie put my clutch in, i gave him the link to this tutorial it worked great! also i didnt get a new flywheel i had it turned at a local machine shop and i have had no problems with it, just a tip if you want to save like 400 bucks on a new one... not saying it will work for all flywheels i had it checked with a depth gage and mine wasnt that bad so i had it turned id suggest doing your research on the tolerances of your specific flywheel before having it turned, i paid 60 bucks and it worked great, so this tip might save u 340 bucks or so, like i said do your research first! i dont want any one to screw up their car lol :) thanks again!!! Great tutorial

great write up! i was wondering when/if i should change my flywheel, my car is about to hit 175 i think ive been getting the throw out bearing squeel sound so im gonna do a clutch kit job just wanted your input

Accelerater was kinda stuck initially. Pushed a bit harder and it completely loosened and engine revved up to red line. Now every time i start it the engine insta red lines to like 7k rpms. Wtf did i do wrong, help pls?

I can't see how anything with this job would affect the accelerator. If yours is a 97-99.5 1.8T it's an AEB meaning a drive-by-cable. Maybe when you reconnected all those electrical connections in the engine bay something snagged the cable? You should see a physical cable connected to your accelerator pedal that is controlling throttle input into the engine... follow that to see what is making it stick.

Other A4's were drive-by-wire, meaning an electrical signal is sent from the accelerator pedal to the computer, which is then sent as electrical signals to the engine. If you have disconnected the battery then you need to run through a procedure to have the ECU relearn the accelerator position to throttle mappings. Just google for the procedure.

My assumption is you have an AEB engine since you mention the pedal was physically stuck.

I was able to figure it out the next day after some rest. When torching the o2 sensor, i think i let the flame get a bit out of control and it melted the plastic housing the accelerator cable slides in causing the cable to hang up. I simply cut away the damaged material and everything works properly.

Same exact problem here, we bleed it, pulled our the slave cylinder and all that is fine, about the bring down tbe tranny to access the clutch plate and clutch release bearing. We'll see how that goes but should be easier thx to this article.... I hope...

I followed this and also took the flywheel and had it resurfaced, put everything back together. The clutch and trans. work fine but my engine now chokes up at 1800 rpm, could I have messed up the timing when I reinstalled the flywheel, it would only bolt up one way.

This was awesome !!best tutorial I've read which will save me a ton of time replacing these parts.Your post is the only one that I found on the internet that showed direct pictures and what to do.All the others was just lousy no pictures,no explanation step by step,no videos at all of a manual transmission or replacing the rear main seal.GREAT LITERATURE keep it up.

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