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I arrive two weeks after the opening of the 55th Venice Biennale. By then the art world is in Basel, and it’s safe to see the 88 national pavilions and 158 artists in curator Massimiliano Gioni’s show, “The Encyclopedic Palace,” on my own. Gioni is currently the living master of the tightly formated narrative group show, and advance word is the most glowing I’ve ever heard. We’ll see. Click through the gallery ahead to see me navigate the good, the bad, and the overhyped in a suddenly empty Venice with my new digital camera.

*This article originally appeared in the July 8, 2013 issue of New York Magazine.