I’m hurtling over a maroon-crested hill with more than 500cc of torque clenched between my legs and a bearded Mail On Sunday writer clinging on to me for dear life. Before me is a hazy vista of magnificent white-domed buildings that stand out along the horizon like the pristine pearly teeth of a Hollywood star.

No, this is not some sort of strange journalistic version of Dante’s Inferno, but somewhat of a dream – an excursion atop quad bikes around the island of Gozo; just one of many highlights on my six-day sojourn to sunny Malta.

It is also testament to the island I’m visiting that despite the hairy hanger-on I am still having the time of my life.

Tell someone you’re off on a trip to Malta, and it’s not always surprising to get back a look of bewildered consternation. The country is a funny old place, not really near anywhere – it’s actually in the south Mediterranean, about 150 miles south of Sicily – and not really extremely well known. But it really isn’t like anywhere else, and that’s what makes it so special.

The Maltese people make the island one of the most friendly places to visit in the Med, and there’s enough of a hangover from 150 years of British rule to make a visit not too culturally jarring for the British – alongside Maltese, English is an official language for its residents, they drink English tea and you can even spot red telephone boxes scattered across the isle.

But though it exudes some of the characteristics of nations that have at some point or other controlled it – and there’s a few – it truly is unique. The actual reason for my visit is Malta Music Week, a week-long island takeover – in conjunction with MTV – of music events which culminates in a 50,000-punter-strong, free concert featuring some of the world’s biggest acts.

Now, I am not saying the gig is not a pretty brilliant thing, but Malta is much more than this, so if you’re visiting during the week it’s on, catch some of it but don’t let it get in the way of sampling the country’s other myriad delights.

If you’re looking for a good base, the capital, Valletta, is the perfect place to discover the island from.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was built after a 1565 victory against the Ottoman armies by the Knights of St John – a group of nobles who were given the island by Charles V of Spain.

Throughout our stay we’re looked after by possibly the greatest guide in all the lands - a fella called Clive Cortis - and our holiday is punctuated with awe, wonder, some incredible food (mainly from the sea, which is usually situated three yards from where you’re dining) and a lot of adventure.

One of our first excursions was to Malta’s walled former capital, Mdina. It’s squeezed full of history, a complex knot of winding corridors, mediaeval churches, historic palaces and grand views.

Then again, most of Malta is like that, a stunning setting greets you at most turns, and though you’ve got to get through the occasional crane-filled skyline to get from one to another, you’re always sure it’s not far off.

Malta's former capital Mdina.

If you want to discover how the Maltese spend their mornings, then the hustle and bustle of the market at Marsaxlokk is the perfect introduction.

Fishmongers hawk their wares as luzzus, traditional Maltese fishing boats with eyes painted on the front to ward off evil spirits, roll lazily in the waters of the bay.

Restaurants line up along the waterfront, any of which seem a good choice to grab the catch of the day and people watch an hour or two away.

If you’ve had enough of sightseeing, Paceville offers a chaotic nightlife scene where excess is well catered for.

If you do fancy getting away from the main island, you can retreat to Gozo, Malta’s neighbouring island.

A short ferry ride away, as soon as you get off the boat it offers idyllic vistas, laid-back bars and hidden coves. Alternatively, visit the tiny islet of Comino (population: three), which sits between Malta and Gozo and offers the most crystal clear waters I have ever seen. It’s Blue Lagoon really embodies its name, an azure delight in which you can park up and easily while away a day.

Comino's Blue Lagoon.

All in all – and despite a hairy moment or two – my stay in Malta has made me only too eager to return.

Cheap if you’re sensible and still not excessive if you’re not, there’s no reason not to take my advice and discover for yourself one of the best places I have ever had the pleasure of discovering.