Comments: This might be a good idea or it might just have a negative impact on the sport. If you increase the number of participants without increasing proportionally the resources that will be needed to accommodate the increase in numbers of climbers, then the new wall just creates more problems. Not saying this is a bad idea, just one that requires careful planning. There is a ton of ice out there if people are willing to walk further than 30 minutes....

Comments: Actually the last bolt is still there with the nut on it, the hanger is what is missing.

When we climbed it on June 24th, 2010, you could slip a thin wired stopper over the nut and between the rock and bolt so that the last few moves could be protected. Seems silly that the last bolt is unclippable since there are eight bolts on the route.

Comments: On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress.

We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I h... more >>

The only wet spot was crossing the pendulum pitch. We stayed pretty dry. The waterfall is boiling but where you have to cross it there is an obvious crack that you can climb even when wet. We could place adequate protection and the rest of the way was a hoot and dry.

Comments: This route was first led by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance around 1985. Paul aided the first three bolts and then finished the rest free. Steve followed it free. Don't know who did the first free ascent on lead.

Comments: This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.

The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN".

Comments: This route has been climbed as and named as East Face Left Side. First known ascent was by Bob Culp and partner 40 years ago. The name Pink Dreams is incorrect and should be stricken from the records........

Comments: As George stated, this route has been known for over 50 years as the East Face Gully NOT Silk Road. It is wrong and incorrect to assign another name for this route just because it has also been climbed as an ice/mixed route.

Comments: Dougald and I did this route today and we confirm the 4star quality rating. This is the best route that has been placed since the bolt ban went into effect. A climb which has tremendous exposure, exceptional rock quality and combines sustained fingery and balance climbing with the occasional thuggish move. We broke this up into two pitches. A #3 and #2 Camalot would be perfect for the belay.

Comments: Paul Gagner and I did this route yesterday (Sept.10, 2009) and were grateful for the hard work that Eli put in replacing the crux pitons and putting in BIG new bolts. Makes the route much safer than the older bolts.

This route can easily be done in five 60m pitches. We had a 70m rope and probably, had we not forgotten most of our slings and left them at home, could have done it in four pitches. AN AWESOME ROUTE!!!

Comments: Went up again to All-Mixed-Up today (Nov. 18) and BOY! has it changed up there in the past two days. Lots of melting and not much freezing. A lot of the ice that was there a week ago has disappeared and not even left a wet spot it is so warm.

AMU itself is still standing but just barely. If you go up, take more rock gear than usual. We got in a few good screws but the ice on the overlaps is just about history. The approach is easier as a result of all the melting.

Comments: Did this route today. It looks like it needs a good scrubbing, and probably it would help the route quality by at least one star if it was a bit cleaner; however, it has some very good moves on it and the pro is very good up until the bolt after the bolt there really isn't any protection but the climbing (if you go right just after the bolt) kicks wayyyyy back to easy 5th. Maybe more like 5.10d than 5.11a. Go left and the climbing is more scruffy and harder.

I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off.

The newly established mountain bike trail by Doudy Draw is a total wreck. I've been using this trail for over 15 years as a hiker and most hikers and equestrians have always backed-off from using it when it was too wet, muddy and in such a state where the erosion that would be caused outweighed the recreational fun to be had. Not so with mountain bikers. It seems that the muddier the trail the greater the number of bikers that need to ride the trail regardless of the erosion caused.... more >>

For those lost souls like myself who just must climb ice until the end. I'm in Telluride at the moment and this is what I know.

Silver Pick is IN at WI4 and looking good. We punched a trail in. Coronet is gone, gone, gone. Bridalveil is looking fat and there is so much snow at the bottom the first pitch is practically buried. Ames Ice Hose is totally in shape. Again, the first pitch is really buried under snow from above but the rest of the climb is in thick shape.

Comments: For those who are interested. As of yesterday, Feb. 9, 2008 ice conditions in Vail are very good. The Fang is thick and getting climbed at solid WI5. The Seventh Tentacle is thick and totally connected from the ground up. The RD is chopped-out and beat-up. Many of the other routes such as Octopussy, Somnambulist, Resurrection are also in good shape. Booth Creek is looking good with a boot path already beaten-in.

I'll update the conditions pagge on my site later today. I know, I've been a... more >>