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"loaded with 2205J drivers that are very tired and in the need of recone."

I have two 2205A and my qustion is how do I know if my 2205A
are "tired and need recone." ?

I think they are OK but I have nothing to compare with.
Did they sound "better" 30 years ago ?

///Kjelle

Hello from Norway.

I have never had the 2205A myself, but it is a Alnico driver, and it might need a re-magnetazion if it has been played "hard" over the years. My 2231A's in the 4333A's needed that. The way I found out was if I was listening to music with a lot of bass power, and the woofer would "crack" at levels it should not do. After the job was done it worked fine again. I do not think a re-cone is neccaserry if they mowe fine without any strange noises.

Usually, a "tired" speaker will show signs of hard use by a sagging spider...stretched out of shape by repeated long excursions so the voice coil is no longer seated in the gap properly. Another sign is a star-like flex pattern or folding around the perimeter of the cone near the compliance or surround. this shows cone fatigue. The only remedy is to have it updated with a 2225 recone kit. Sometimes an alnico magnet can lose it's strength by repeated overheating and or being dropped. The magnet can be recharged bt the factory or a shop with the necessary equipment. When a speaker(transducer, driver,etc.) is properly serviced, it will perform just as well as if it were new.

Do metal objects fly toward them???
I dont know how much charge they supposed to have.
But the only thing i would do to the actuall driver by the look of the photo is a recharge if a shifter wont stick to it
p.s cant examine the spider but the cones are in good shape

maybe ill get in all kind of shit for this!

But if u want to blacken the cones
wait for a warm day
pva(wood working) glue 40% hot water 60 % or 50%-50% will do
keep mixing through the process
take a cloth a dip it in your water glue mix and go around in circle`s 1 direction till the cone wet,then set it out to dry
the theory goes
that the cardboard takes on the pvc the water resets the cone and dryes off leaving the cone stiffer
i do it ot all my drivers and it makes them look like new
and never had a prob no matter how much i crank them
morbo!

Is there a noticable difference between the two? As stated above Alnico magnets will lose their charge if worked hard or dropped. Were your 2205s used for home Hi-Fi or live sound applications? You'll need to know their history.
on

I can't hear any difference in sound or optical.
I know the history they have been used for home parties
and a few times outdoor.
And after that been stored for 15 years in a basement where I found them!

Lost energy ??

I don`think so. I bought my 2205A in 79 and 80. Only used for home listening and some louder partys over a short time. Used in 4530 rear loaded horn and (4508) reflex chamber. There is no change in sound and no loss in magnetic energy if they are not used in PA.

When I said that my 2205s were "tired" I meant that they have been driven hard for too many years by idividuals that have no idea of what they were doing. These drivers have severe tares in the surrounds, dust caps that dare I say it, have been pushed in by small hands just for kicks...... Basically they need someone to inspect them and recone or resurround or do what is required to get another 15+ years out of them.

When I said that my 2205s were "tired" I meant that they have been driven hard for too many years by idividuals that have no idea of what they were doing. These drivers have severe tares in the surrounds, dust caps that dare I say it, have been pushed in by small hands just for kicks...... Basically they need someone to inspect them and recone or resurround or do what is required to get another 15+ years out of them.

Michael

Hi. If I where you, I would re-magetize and re-cone them. Then you will be absolutly sure. Some money, but they are worth it. Use a professional to do this.

When I said that my 2205s were "tired" I meant that they have been driven hard for too many years by idividuals that have no idea of what they were doing. These drivers have severe tares in the surrounds, dust caps that dare I say it, have been pushed in by small hands just for kicks...... Basically they need someone to inspect them and recone or resurround or do what is required to get another 15+ years out of them.

Michael

They could certainly use a recone since they have that sort of damage/wear.

Do metal objects fly toward them???
I dont know how much charge they supposed to have.
But the only thing i would do to the actuall driver by the look of the photo is a recharge if a shifter wont stick to it
p.s cant examine the spider but the cones are in good shape

maybe ill get in all kind of shit for this!

But if u want to blacken the cones
wait for a warm day
pva(wood working) glue 40% hot water 60 % or 50%-50% will do
keep mixing through the process
take a cloth a dip it in your water glue mix and go around in circle`s 1 direction till the cone wet,then set it out to dry
the theory goes
that the cardboard takes on the pvc the water resets the cone and dryes off leaving the cone stiffer
i do it ot all my drivers and it makes them look like new
and never had a prob no matter how much i crank them
morbo!

Please explain, what is pva ?
And where do I find it (in Sweden) ?
Cheers
///Kjelle

Hi imtkjlu
- Personally, I'd ignore the DIY advice to dope the cone with some PVA compound . This will not properly address the problems that your cones' surrounds presently have .
- Plus, doping will add weight into the moving mass figure ( with all the attendant results that come with having a heavier cone, such as compromised midrange performance and a reduction in overall efficiency, as well as a lower Fs ).

- If you presently can't afford reconing with JBLs' C8R2225 kits, then explore having a Professional Reconer install some aftermarket surrounds (only) into the existing JBL cones, along with some new dust caps ..

Please explain, what is pva ?
And where do I find it (in Sweden) ?
Cheers
///Kjelle

PVA is PolyVinyl Acetate. It comes in different formulations and differing flexibilties. The most common type of PVA would seem to be white glue such as Elmer's Glue.

Morbo's suggestion is simply to dilute the white glue till it's watery and paint it onto the cone to hopefully bolster a tired, fatigued cone. The added mass will be negligible. Fitting a new cloth m-roll surround is typically a losing proposition.

Look...were talking about a speaker that can still be used since the voice coil still works. Band-aid fixes are not illegall and we're usually talking about non-critical playback listening....to make the speaker at least function untill you can afford the right recone to renew the speaker.

If you've got cracks in the 2205 surround you've got two decent options.
One is to find a recone shop that has the flexible PVA. Electro-Voice uses two different formulations, one for cloth surrounds(semi-flexible), the other for foam surrounds(flexible)...these are known by the brand name "Airflex". This is the method I use to make simple surround patches when one doesn't want to pay for a recone and just needs a "fix" to get up and running.

The other option is to sparingly use black silicone weather strip sealer like that by GE found in hardware stores. Apply it sparingly to the folds in the surround and next to the cone and spread it evenly around the perimeter with your finger, then let it cure for 24 hours.

I'd rather do these fixes on an injured, working JBL cone assembly than waste my money on an aftermarket cone kit with the wrong electrical and dimensional properties...the voice coil is the heart and soul of JBL drivers, and wrong ones just sound wrong.