Blueberry & Buttermilk Ice Pops

Nathalie Jordi lives in New Orleans in winter and summers in Brooklyn, where she and partners David Carrell and Joel Horowitz run People's Pops, an ice pop business they founded in 2008. Right in time for our sultry summers, their new "People's Pops" cookbook officially debuts Tuesday from Ten Speed Press ($16.99) and is subtitlted: "50 Recipes for Ice Pops, Shave Ice and Boozy Pops from Brooklyn's Coolest Pop Shop."

The recipes, organized by season, are super simple, based on seasonal fruit from the farmers' market, simple syrup and most of the time another flavoring, sometimes unusual. And as the sweetness and taste of fruit varies in season, tasting as you go is a must.

The quicker the pops freeze, the cookbook notes, the smaller the ice crystals will be, leading to creamier texture and longer shelf life. For best results, turn your freezer to its coldest setting, place the pops in the back near the bottom where it's coldest, and avoid opening the freezer door while the pops are freezing.

This recipe is a riff on blueberries and cream.

You're cleaning out your freezer right now for hurricane season anyway, aren't you? Time to make the pops.

Makes 10

1 pound 2 ounces (4 cups) blueberries

2/3 cup simple syrup*

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup buttermilk

Puree blueberries in a food processor to make about 1-3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons puree. Combine puree, simple syrup and lemon juice in a bowl or measuring pitcher with a pouring sprout. Taste; the precise amount of simple syrup and lemon juice needed will depend on sweetness of the berries. Be aware that blueberries are one of the rare fruits you don't want to oversweeten, because they tend to get sweeter as they freeze.

If you want to strain out the skins, do so now. Press mixture through a colander or sieve with a wooden spoon, rubber spatula or your fist (note: berries stain so you might wear gloves). Or don't. Swirl in the buttermilk, minimally if you want a marbled effect, maximally if you want the flavors to coalesce.

Pour mixture into ice pop molds, leaving a little bit of room at the top for the mixture to expand. Insert sticks and freeze until solid, 4 to 5 hours. Unmold and transfer to plastic bags for storage, or serve at once.

*Simple Syrup

2/3 cup organic cane sugar

2/3 cup water

Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves and the mixture is transparent. Turn off the heat and let cool.

To infuse, add any spices before the mixture starts to simmer; add any herbs only after you've turned off the heat. Store syrups in sealed containers in the fridge.