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Also, in more cases than one it is not because people are broke, some people don't have the time to put their setups together and when they get them together the weak parts and limited suppliers of parts contribute to build/repair delays.

I am still waiting on stronger parts to be shipped and unfortunately it has taken more than a month since I ordered them or contacted the vendor to see if they can make their current parts stronger.

Also, in more cases than one it is not because people are broke, some people don't have the time to put their setups together and when they get them together the weak parts and limited suppliers of parts contribute to build/repair delays.

I am still waiting on stronger parts to be shipped and unfortunately it has taken more than a month since I ordered them or contacted the vendor to see if they can make their current parts stronger.

is that last pass the part where it almost got run over by the SUV? what are this parts that you order that takes months before you get them? i took care most of the wobbles on mine but what i cant get rid of is the steering drag link, as for now i wrap the screw with teflon tape but few passes its back again.

Also, in more cases than one it is not because people are broke, some people don't have the time to put their setups together and when they get them together the weak parts and limited suppliers of parts contribute to build/repair delays.

I am still waiting on stronger parts to be shipped and unfortunately it has taken more than a month since I ordered them or contacted the vendor to see if they can make their current parts stronger.

is that last pass the part where it almost got run over by the SUV? what are this parts that you order that takes months before you get them? i took care most of the wobbles on mine but what i cant get rid of is the steering drag link, as for now i wrap the screw with teflon tape but few passes its back again.

I am waiting on a stronger battery holder because I chose not to go the strap route and I am also waiting for a steel pinion gear because I proved the stock gear was strong enough to stay on this setup.

I just want to hit the 120+ speeds with the original Kershaw setup I bought. I bought a new two wheel toy to play with instead so I probably will sell the XO-1 after I hit 120 and prove what it is capable of with a video.

Miles... since the weather is starting to get nice again I may take the 8s set-up out with you guys one weekend. The car has sat on the shelf since January. Has the road gotten any worse since last time we went out there?

This topic has puzzled me for a while. To be honest, at first I had doubts about the possibility of reaching such insane speeds. The reason for that is my own speed run experiences and excitement with a silly Bandit with speeds "only" to around 90mph.

I decided to do some maths to look at the theoretic side for your achievements. I took the acceleration and braking ability of an F1 car. An F1 car can accelerate from 0-60 in around 1.6 seconds. That is around 1.6G. The braking power is even more impressive: up to 4G.

Let's put these figures into some formulas.

From 0 to 148mph is 0-66 m/s. With 1.6G that would take 66/16 = 4.13 seconds.
That would need a runway of 1/2 x 16 x 4.132 = 136.5 meter (around 455 ft)

Braking with 4G, it would take 1.65 seconds to come to a stand still.
The brake runway would be 1/2 x 40 x 1.652 = 54.5 meter (around 180 ft)

So with F1 capabilities, you can accelerate to 148 mph and brake to zero in around 190m/635 ft.

I'm pretty sure my current set-up is pretty much at its limits. Dan over at Kershaw contacted me a few months ago about having my 8s XO1 featured in RC Driver. Then he offered me the option of changing my set-up to use a 910kv motor on 12s in order to run even higher gearing in order to combat heat. As you guys may know, the Kershaw 8s set-up installs quite easily (mechanically speaking) but it is far from 'ready to race' in my opinion. There is a lot of programming as well as wiring that Kershaw does not supply. Out of the box, the set-up wouldn't run for even 2 minutes before the ESC would fail. I know that it took me quite some time to get all of the kinks worked out which is why I didn't feel like being a test dummy for a 910kv 12 cell set-up. Why fix something if it isn't broken, right? I would just like to be clear that my 8s set-up originated from Kershaw... but it has been highly modified since. As you can see from the pictures it is also a very simple set-up and works quite well. Roughly 1:1 custom gearing, leopard motor, XL2 ESC (custom calibration), 8 cells, and a lot of work to improve the vehicles aerodynamics. With 'stock' gearing it will usually clock 125-130mph. This is the safest set-up to run on public roads.

On a side note, I have sold my 6 cell XO1 to Winston Smith. I'm sure he will be joining the forums soon to help contribute.

I'm pretty sure my current set-up is pretty much at its limits. Dan over at Kershaw contacted me a few months ago about having my 8s XO1 featured in RC Driver. Then he offered me the option of changing my set-up to use a 910kv motor on 12s in order to run even higher gearing in order to combat heat. As you guys may know, the Kershaw 8s set-up installs quite easily (mechanically speaking) but it is far from 'ready to race' in my opinion. There is a lot of programming as well as wiring that Kershaw does not supply. Out of the box, the set-up wouldn't run for even 2 minutes before the ESC would fail. I know that it took me quite some time to get all of the kinks worked out which is why I didn't feel like being a test dummy for a 910kv 12 cell set-up. Why fix something if it isn't broken, right? I would just like to be clear that my 8s set-up originated from Kershaw... but it has been highly modified since. As you can see from the pictures it is also a very simple set-up and works quite well. Roughly 1:1 custom gearing, leopard motor, XL2 ESC (custom calibration), 8 cells, and a lot of work to improve the vehicles aerodynamics. With 'stock' gearing it will usually clock 125-130mph. This is the safest set-up to run on public roads.

On a side note, I have sold my 6 cell XO1 to Winston Smith. I'm sure he will be joining the forums soon to help contribute.

That must be some real custom gearing like you said to be running almost a 1:1 ratio. The Kershaw design on allows up to a 38T pinion and that is using his gears. Now becomes the question since that is not roughly 1:1 who else would make or be able to get gears as well so that maybe you could go larger? Fartofdoom is the only other source now that i know of and i "personally" know the biggest gear that you can get from him to fit the Kershaw design is also a 38T. So where does that leave us since there is no one else that makes or can get these plastic nylon gears, right back to square one. Now you can modify the Kershaw mount to accept bigger gears with a Dremal but you would not be able to go that much bigger. How you are able to get "roughly" a 1:1 gear ratio is beyond me and impressive. Now Dan was telling me that there are ways to change out the spur gear and use something different, but we have since lost contact with each other.

OH WOW! Now i see how it can be done! The collars on the gears i have from FartofDoom are 3/4 of an inch O.D. (outside diameter) and if the shaft column was smaller it would give more room in side the Kershaw Design mount for a bigger gear! Now the ONLY bad thing is they are made of metal so would you really be gaining a whole lot then? With the metal gear you will get higher temps in the motor versus the plastic gear? Kind of like choosing your poison in which would be better?!?!?

I would suggest steel gears are superior to delrin or other plastics & don't influence motor heat at all (assuming you have the correct mesh)

The problem with Delrins are the set screws stripping out. A small rock will also tear those gears up to shreds. That's why I order everything in bulk. The smaller spur gear set-up can be done. It just requires some machining and shaft adapters. It's too bad that they aren't readily available.

Yes, I am still running the 8s set-up. As I said before, power is not an issue at this point... it's the vehicles aerodynamics. You can have all the power in the world but if you can't put it down to the ground it's not worth anything. That's why I never wanted to waste my time with a 12s set-up. 150-160mph top speeds are fine with me for the track. On public streets I try to limit the speeds to 130-135mph with gearing selection

I just started to tinker with my XO1 again so I'll see if I can get a few of my friends together so that we can have a better video taken. I'm still on the fence about making a custom body... but I end up talking myself out of it due to the fact that it could all go down the drain with one wreck.

Yes, I am still running the 8s set-up. As I said before, power is not an issue at this point... it's the vehicles aerodynamics. You can have all the power in the world but if you can't put it down to the ground it's not worth anything. That's why I never wanted to waste my time with a 12s set-up. 150-160mph top speeds are fine with me for the track. On public streets I try to limit the speeds to 130-135mph with gearing selection

I just started to tinker with my XO1 again so I'll see if I can get a few of my friends together so that we can have a better video taken. I'm still on the fence about making a custom body... but I end up talking myself out of it due to the fact that it could all go down the drain with one wreck.

Glad to have you back Anthony! Can't wait to see some vids! I still need to come see you and do some runs. Maybe this summer?

Ne new newz on dis setup? Been thinkin of goin 8s but not sure if itz worth only pickin up another 15-20mph. I see now wut ppl talkin bout taking gps moviez of runz. Gunna try to do dis soon now. Ur a inspiration to us all setting recordz w ur xo1. Pretty tite video.

I 100% believe this video is rigged. I have a garmin 101 and I pretty much know how it works. So, I will try to explain what I discovered. The top slot on the garmin has max speed. The bottom left has current speed. The bottom right shows total time, the one we'll be paying attention to. In the video, at 2minutes and 6 seconds, his finger is covering the time up. But, you can clearly tell the third digit is a 5 as he moves his finger and reveals garmin time 4:55 But, between the video time of 2:06 and 2:11 the total remains the same on the garmin (4:55). The time is not running, which means the gps is stopped. He never never preset the button to start or stop which lead me to believe that the gps read 148 before he placed it in the car. So, if the gps was on the time would still be running. And it never shows him pressing the start/stop button.

I'm not totally convinced that he faked it by your reasoning. The Garmin Forerunner 101 has an Auto Pause feature, which pauses the timer when the GPS drops below a certain speed. This could be the explanation for the time staying the same, since he set the XO-1 on the tailgate, and, while it was just sitting there, the time stayed the same. I'm not too sure though why he used a GPS meant for walking and running (probably because it's smaller and easier to fit in the car and adds less weight) although this particular GPS uses up to 12 satellites, so it seems like it should be pretty accurate. I'm just wondering if certain GPSs are only accurate within a certain interval of speed that they were designed for.