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E46 Xi Forum The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

I have the mount and am in the process of doing it. Ideally you'll want this special tool to remove it and press it back in: http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/bmw_aut...ansmission.pdf. The tool # is: B221010. It's pricy and many question whether it is worth it to buy since you'll most likely replace this mount once in the car's lifetime. I've talked to a few independent BMW repair shops and they all either don't own the special tool and/or have never replaced one which I find to be pretty odd since the X3's and X5's use the same transfer case mount. One shop just told me to use an air chisel to get it out and a rubber mallet to pound it in. Another shop told me they reccommend not even touching it for fear of "damaging" the drive system in the removal process. I found that advice to be a bit skeptical as it would take a lot of force to really damage the transfer case/drive system. I'm going to try and visit a few more shops in hopes that one has the tool so I can possibly borrow/get dimensions to fabricate my own tool. Once i get around to replacing the mount I'll be sure to posy a pictorial DIY. I hope this helps and good luck.

I just had mine replaced recently. The shop did use an air chisel to force it out and tried hammering it in with a rubber mallet. It did not work and they ended up fabricating 2 metal strips for each end and with a long bolt in between forcing the mount in. Same principle as the bushing tool.

I just did this a few days ago, along with the subframe and differential bushings. Easiest way to get them out is a hacksaw or reciprocating saw, with the latter being much faster, to slice through the outer metal sleeve after getting the center metal core out. (In my case, the metal core literally fell out once the aluminum support bracket was off! If the metal core is still in, then there should be plenty of room to use a saw to slice around the metal core. With the subframe bushings, this was easier to do with a long sacrificial drill bit, as the bushings were smaller around with larger metal cores.) Then the bushing caves in on itself pretty easily and is out with a few whacks of a hammer and cold chisel. Just be careful when using a reciprocating saw that you don't slice into the transfer case housing. If you're careful, but moving quickly, you can have the old bushing out in about 5 minutes.

Pressing them in requires nothing more than various lengths of grade 8 bolts, some washers, a few nuts, and a couple of metal plates for either side of the bolts. I think I had a large (for 1 1/4" pipe) floor gas pipe flange from Lowe's for pressing in and 2 spring pad plates from TSC on the opposite side for pulling against. I used a little bit of soapy water on the outside of the bushing as it was pressed in, and it was in ~5 minutes.

I had 1/2" bolts for the subframe bushings, and I found those were just the slightest bit too big to slip all the way through the transfer case bushing core due to the fact that it tapers slightly inward in the center of the core. Instead of going to the store and buying 3/8" bolts, washers, and nuts, I just sent a 1/2" drill bit through the core and shaved away about 0.5 mm all the way around in the center to allow me to use the 1/2" bolts.

Although not 100% necessary, I greased the threads of each bolt before it was used and found that it was much easier to tighten up without damaging them. All the bolts I used are still fine, and I'm saving them for future bushing removal / installation.

Whether you are doing this work with the transfer case in or out of the car, this would be a great time to change its fluid! I changed all my driveline fluids last October, and at that time the transfer case fluid was disgustingly black with fine shiny specs in it... made me cringe as it drained out! I decided to change the transfer case fluid again as it was out of the car, and after only 10k miles it had a hint of red to it, but was still rather black.

I just had mine replaced recently. The shop did use an air chisel to force it out and tried hammering it in with a rubber mallet. It did not work and they ended up fabricating 2 metal strips for each end and with a long bolt in between forcing the mount in. Same principle as the bushing tool.

Sent from my MB860 using Bimmer

I am looking to change all of the mounts possible at the same time, I have a 2005 330xi and have vibration at idle and odd rear wheel stumbling when going above 65mph in a turn. I figured the motor mounts (at 99k miles) are due to be changed, and the rear trailing arm bushings should be swapped (that should correct fast turning rear wheel issues). Also to note 2k miles ago, I got new Goodyear tires from sears put on.

When it comes to transmission mounts ... I have the GM Automatic transmission, do I only need to change the Gearbox rubber mount as shown bellow?

I am looking to change all of the mounts possible at the same time, I have a 2005 330xi and have vibration at idle and odd rear wheel stumbling when going above 65mph in a turn. I figured the motor mounts (at 99k miles) are due to be changed, and the rear trailing arm bushings should be swapped (that should correct fast turning rear wheel issues). Also to note 2k miles ago, I got new Goodyear tires from sears put on.

When it comes to transmission mounts ... I have the GM Automatic transmission, do I only need to change the Gearbox rubber mount as shown bellow?

Yes, that's all you need to change for the tranny mount but unless it is actually damaged and/or failed I wouldn't bother changing it.

You need to look into the source of your rough idle before you start throwing parts at it. Could be as simple as an O2 sensor or a rip/crack in your intake boot.

I agree, that the rear trailing arm bushings need to be changed out and that shouldn't take any shop very long if they have the right tool.

Thanks! I changed the intake boots about 3 months ago. Do you think the oxygen sensors should be changed even though no code appears (I have no codes on dash) and mpg is around 28 on the highway with no stopping @ 70mph. The only rough idle I have is when in drive and stopped at a light. I was looking at using UUC bushings and a rear trailing arm limiter kit.

Don't bother with doing the trans mount as it won't help you out at all. Change out the motor mounts with OEM parts and use polyurethane Powerflex bushings for the RTABs. I wouldn't bother with the limiter kit either.

Thanks again! I will order some o2 sensors after all these bushings are taken care of on Thursday. I hate having to replace $300 in sensors that won't make a noticeable difference, but I do realize it's for the best.

Thanks again! I will order some o2 sensors after all these bushings are taken care of on Thursday. I hate having to replace $300 in sensors that won't make a noticeable difference, but I do realize it's for the best.

Not bad at all, I may take a trip today to get the 2 pre cats, so I can install them tomorrow with the motor mounts and maybe the gearbox mount (if it looks crappy). I ordered powerflex rear trailing arm bushings and lower control arm bushings (not for now, my LCA bushings are fine).

I ordered 2 o2 sensors from oembimmerparts.com for $65 each. They Had RTABs with limiter kit for less than $70, but I thought the poly bushings would be better and last much longer, so blew $75 on the bushings from powerflex.

I replaced the 2 pre cat O2s and what a difference!! No codes, but low RPM throttle response is much better!!!!! I also had a slow coolant leak from a heater core hose. I changed both, now all hoses and coolant system is new (rest is 6 months old).

I replaced the 2 pre cat O2s and what a difference!! No codes, but low RPM throttle response is much better!!!!! I also had a slow coolant leak from a heater core hose. I changed both, now all hoses and coolant system is new (rest is 6 months old).