Agamid, also known as “Dragon Lizards”, are a family of reptiles in the order Squamata. This family of lizards includes approx 300 species that are distributed throughout Asia, Australia and Africa.

The most common species of bearded dragons is the Inland (or Central) Bearded Dragon which is the most often found at pet stores or pet shops. Below we will explore different types of bearded dragons:

Inland Bearded Dragon

Also known as central bearded dragon; this is the bearded dragon that is found in the pet stores. When bearded dragons are referred to in books and other material this is the bearded dragon type they are usually referring to.

In the pet industry today, many inland bearded dragons are bred in captivity as they are easy to breed and keep. Due to the massive breeding by many professional breeders due to the high demand of the market, the market is quite saturate in certain regions in the United States, and lower pricing lately in the pet reptile industry and making them readily available and affordable for many bearded dragon enthusiasts.

To help you in recognizing this type of bearded dragon, just keep in mind that this species has a pair of distinctive spot on the neck base. This can be seen on inland / central bearded dragons only. The reason for the popularity of this reptile is that they are docile, friendly and interact with humans quite well.

Coastal Bearded Dragon

This types of bearded dragon is much duller and darker colored than the inland bearded dragon which is more common in the pet community. They are also a more difficult to tame bearded dragon species. This is why they are not found in pet stores frequently.

Rankin Bearded Dragon

This species of bearded dragon is also very hard to find available due to their small size only about 13 inches and very few bearded dragon breeders and suppliers sell this type of beardie.

We have explore the most popular types of Bearded Dragons in this article and will soon have information on bearded dragon morphs too.

Discoid Roaches (general/facts): Discoid Roaches (Blaberus discoidalis) are live-bearing tropical roaches native to Central and South America. They reach a maximum size of up to 2” and are very popular as feeders since they have no odor and don’t climb or fly. They tend to be fairly quick moving roaches which could provide a welcome challenge to some reptiles when they hunt.

Caging (cages/enclosures): Discoid Roaches can be kept in any ventilated container. This can include an aquarium or a plastic tub with screen cover. Although they do not climb, it’s recommended that enclosures be covered to keep inappropriate substances or hazards such as household pets out.

Bedding (substrate/accessories/supplies): Roaches do best without a substrate, which facilitates cleaning and sorting babies from adults. They do need places to hide and surface area to stand on. This is best accomplished by using stacked egg crate flats, cardboard sheets in the shape of commercial egg containers.

Heating (heating): Discoid Roaches can tolerate temperatures as low as 68 degrees F, but require much warmer temperatures to thrive and reproduce. A warm side of 85-90 degrees is recommended. This can be accomplished by using an under tank heater (UTH) on one side of the enclosure or a ceramic heat emitter. Discoid Roaches require a moderate amount of humidity: provide bowls of water crystal gel or shallow water bowls, or mist the sides of the enclosure periodically.

Lighting (lighting): Discoid Roaches do not require lighting.

Food/Diet: In order for roaches to be nutritious for the reptiles that will eat them, they need to be “gutloaded” with nutritious food. This includes powdered grains and nuts, cereal, fruits and vegetables, ground up dry dog food. Be sure to remove fruits and vegetables before they mold, as this can be fatal to the roaches. Place approximately 1/2” of gutload in shallow dishes at the sides or bottom of the enclosure. Although Discoid Roaches may get adequate hydration from the fruits and vegetables they eat, it’s best to provide a few dishes of water crystal gel or water as an additional source of moisture and humidity.

Breeding: What follows is a general outline of breeding information. Please seek more information before attempting to breed your Discoid Roaches:
Discoid Roaches are relatively easy to breed. Since they are live-bearers, no particular breeding medium is required. Mature females will produce 20-30 nymphs (baby roaches) at a time as long as the heat and humidity are adequate. The babies may take several months to reach feeding size. In order to keep track of the colony population, roaches can be sorted by size. Colonies should not be allowed to get too large since overcrowding can result in roach damage or death.

Lobster Roaches (general/facts): Lobster Roaches (Nauphoeta cinerea) are live-bearing tropical roaches native to the Caribbean. They reach a maximum size of up to 1 1/2” and are very popular as feeders since they have no odor. They are, however, able to climb any surface and care must be taken that they don’t escape.

Caging (cages/enclosures): Lobster Roaches can be kept in any closed, ventilated container. This can include an aquarium or a plastic tub with screen cover. In addition to keeping the container closed, it’s important to put a barrier at the sides of the enclosure towards the top so they don’t squeeze through the cover. This can be done by putting a 2-3′ wide layer of vaseline or spray oil in the inside of the enclosure at the top.

Bedding (substrate/accessories/supplies): Roaches do best without a substrate, which facilitates cleaning and sorting babies from adults. They do need places to hide and surface area to stand on. This is best accomplished by using stacked egg crate flats, cardboard sheets in the shape of commercial egg containers.

Heating (heating): Lobster Roaches can tolerate temperatures as low as 70 degrees F, but require much warmer temperatures to thrive and reproduce. A warm side of at least 90 degrees is recommended and they can tolerate temperatures of over 100 degrees. This can be accomplished by using an under tank heater (UTH) on one side of the enclosure or a ceramic heat emitter. Lobster Roaches require a moderate amount of humidity: provide bowls of water crystal gel or mist the sides of the enclosure periodically.

Lighting (lighting): Lobster Roaches do not require lighting.

Food/Diet: In order for roaches to be nutritious for the reptiles that will eat them, they need to be “gutloaded” with nutritious food. This includes powdered grains and nuts, cereal, fruits and vegetables, ground up dry dog food. Be sure to remove fruits and vegetables before they mold, as this can be fatal to the roaches. Place approximately 1/2” of gutload in shallow dishes at the sides or bottom of the enclosure. Although Lobster Roaches may get adequate hydration from the fruits and vegetables they eat, it’s best to provide a few dishes of water crystal gel as an additional source of moisture and humidity.

Breeding: What follows is a general outline of breeding information. Please seek more information before attempting to breed your Lobster Roaches:
Lobster Roaches are relatively easy to breed. Since they are live-bearers, no particular breeding medium is required. Mature females will produce 20-30 nymphs (baby roaches) at a time as long as the heat and humidity are adequate. The babies may take several months to reach feeding size. For best results, maintain a ratio of 1 male for every 3 females (males have fully developed wings and females have wing stubs). In order to keep track of the colony population, roaches can be sorted by size.

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/lobster-roach-nauphoeta-cinerea-care-sheet/feed0Bearded Dragon Genus And Habitathttp://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-genus-and-habitat
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-genus-and-habitat#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:47:45 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=636more →]]>The bearded dragon is a lizard and lizards are a species of reptile. There are a number of species and subspecies of bearded dragons but the species that is most commonly found, as a household pet is the Pogona Vitticeps – the central or inland bearded dragon.

All species of bearded dragon lizards originally emanated from Australia although they have now been exported all over the world. Under the right conditions they do well in captivity and are therefore widely bred.

In their natural, Australian habitat all the different species of the bearded dragon are spread across that country’s many regions. As a result of the spread across different regions the color of the bearded dragon ranges from light tan to dark brown or green; often with highlights of black, red and gold. The color of the lizard is largely dependent on the conditions of its natural habitat – this means that in desert or scrub areas they will lean towards light tan, and in forested or cultivated areas they are more likely to be green. Their colors can be subject to change depending on the lizard’s internal condition. They are sometimes selectively bred when they are in captivity to produce brighter gold or red coloring.

In its natural habitat the juvenile bearded dragon often resides in trees and will hide itself by burrowing into any holes in the trunk. When the bearded dragon reaches adulthood it remains largely on the ground, however, it will climb when it wants to bask in the sun or forage for food. A good number of these lizards can be found in desert areas where there are rocks on which they can bask or burrow under to protect themselves from the cold nights common to desert areas. They will also use the edges of the rocks when they need to shed their skin.

In captivity a plastic or wood and glass aquarium should be used with a 20-gallon minimum size for juveniles and at least 40 for the adult. Their housing should be twice the bearded dragon’s total length when fully stretched out and should be at least 16 inches wide to allow the lizard to turn around.

You should place at least one or two largish rocks in your lizard’s habitat, as it will need this for basking and shedding its skin. Only naturally formed rocks should be used – such as those found in your back yard or in wooded areas. The rock or rocks should also be big enough for the bearded dragon to burrow under at night. In the daytime it will need plenty of light and in the evening it will want a shady, cooler environment. The idea is to simulate its natural habitat as far as possible.

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-genus-and-habitat/feed0Introduction To Bearded Dragonshttp://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/introduction-to-bearded-dragons
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/introduction-to-bearded-dragons#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:46:11 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=633more →]]>Exotic pets may not be everyone’s cup of tea but if you knew anything about the bearded dragon lizard then you might change your mind. If you are not averse to reptiles then you will find that the bearded dragon makes a good pet. Bearded dragons are found all over Australia; they are hardy creatures and can survive as well in the desert as they can in the bush; and they are just as happy in urban or populated areas.

The bearded lizard is gentle, docile and loyal and some people tote these pets around with them as they are small enough for even a child to carry. Unlike many other reptiles the bearded dragon is not easily agitated and so it is far less likely that any accidental damage will occur. As you may have guessed the bearded dragon lizard takes its name from its appearance. Beneath the lizard’s jaws lies and inflatable flap of skin – this is inflated when the bearded dragon becomes agitated and this makes it look like a beard. In some cases the flap will turn black when inflated making even more reminiscent of a beard.

The bearded dragon does not feel itself easily threatened and so it is slow to become agitated and this makes it an easy pet to care for. This lizard measures about three inches long when it is first hatched; it grows at a weekly rate until it reaches a length of about two feet – so it is not too big to be carried around. A bearded lizard does not need a lot of looking after and easily adapts to most environments.

It is fairly easy to tell whether or not your pet is sick because the bearded dragon’s state of health is evident in its tail. When it is unwell, underfed or dehydrated then its tail has a bony feel and its fat stores are soon depleted. You should always make sure that your lizard’s eyes are clear; if they are unwell then the eyes can become sunken – this may mean that your pet is becoming dehydrated.

Plastic cages are probably the most economical and easily cleaned method of housing your pet, but sometime not the best for growing beardies. We prefer the reptile screened cages called Reptariums. They are lightweight and won’t go to waste if you upgrade to a more lavish, full-size glass bearded dragon enclosure; as you can use it as an outdoor cage when you take your beardie outside to catch some natural rays.

Bearded lizards are pretty easy to feed and will require a diet of worms and little bugs mixed in with veggies – use the cultivated bugs that are available in most pet stores to feed you lizard as they are not contaminated by insecticides. Dark green, leafy vegetables cut small are also good for your pet.

The other thing that this lizard needs is a lot of light so you might want to consider adding a UV light to its cage as this helps its digestion and its disposition. Feed your bearded dragon daily and keep its housing clean and you will have a contented pet.

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/introduction-to-bearded-dragons/feed0Bearded Dragon Substrate / Beddinghttp://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-substrate-bedding
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-substrate-bedding#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:44:57 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=631more →]]>Substrates have become an extremely controversial topic. Opinions vary with experience and skill. Below we discuss bearded dragon accessories the possible substrates along with the pros and cons of each one.

Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
Babies are best kept on a non particle substrate material such as reptile carpet, shelf liner, butcher paper, paper towels, or ceramic tiles. By using a non particle substrate the chance of impaction from the substrate is gone along with possible bacteria harboring in the substrate.

Ceramic Tile

Laying tile in the bottom of the vivarium will provide a clean environment for your bearded dragon. It can be found at hardware stores in the flooring section. Avoid smooth tile and purchase tile with texture. This will ensure your bearded dragon can get traction while walking and running around.

Tile is easy to clean and will assist in keeping the nails filed down. Tile is our personal favorite for a substrate. Lay papertowels under the tiles so that it makes deep cleaning easier. You can easily lift the tiles out to clean. Tile rout can be used to secure the tiles in the viv.

Non-adhesive Shelf Liner

We have found this to be an economically affordable and low maintenance substrate for baby bearded dragons. Clean up is easy with a simple wipe and replacement is inexpensive. Non-adhesive shelf liner can be purchased at larger stores like Wal-Mart and Target.

Newspaper/Paper

This is a good idea if you are concerned about ease of cleaning and cost. It is not the ‘prettiest’ set-up for your tank, but it works well. *The ink in the newspaper will NOT harm your dragon – its non-toxic. It may give them dirty-looking feet, but that is about all. Be aware that crickets will hide under the newspaper.

Paper towels or butcher paper can be used and replaced with each bowel movement.

Reptile Carpet

This works well and looks nice. It is fairly easy to clean also – even easier if you have more than 1 piece cut to fit in the cage. The only downfall is that dragons normally pass a bowel movement every day – requiring the cleaning and replacement of the carpet on a daily basis.

Sand Mixture

To replicate the bearded dragon’s natural habitat, a sand mix can be created by mixing excavator clay (30%), washed play sand (60%), and loam (10%). We don’t recommend making the entire floor with the sand mixture. Put the sand mixture about ¼ of the viv’s floor.

Children’s Play Sand

Sand can be controversial among bearded dragon owners. We recommend not using sand until your dragon has reached 1 year of age. With sand, the risk for impaction increases, as well as, the possibility that bacteria can harbor in it.

If you choose to use sand, poops need to be cleaned soon after going. Avoid all pet store sand; these include Reptisand, Calcisand, Vitasand. Sand should be replaced monthly. If not, then bacteria can form, which will lead to a sick bearded dragon. Also, ensure you sift the sand prior to putting it in the viv.

Reptile Bark/Bedding

This is definitely not a good idea. Crickets can hide under the bark, resulting in the dragon not getting its full meal and the possibility of the crickets coming out at night and bothering the dragon. Another major reason is that the dragon could accidentally ingest a piece of bark, which would result in terminal ingestion.

If you chose to use a particle substrate then please remember that the consumption of such a matter can cause impaction problems. The use of a separate feeding tank is recommended.

Adults may use any of the above mentioned substrates and can also safely live on sifted washed play sand purchased from your local retail store or hardware store. and Lizard Liter (English walnut shells).

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-substrate-bedding/feed0Bearded Dragon Behaviorhttp://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-behavior
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-behavior#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:43:49 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=629more →]]>The bearded dragon is so called because of its ability to puff out a pouch in its throat. The pouch has prominent spikes on the scales which when puffed gives the effect of a having a beard. The beard can change color and become black. This behavior is found in both male and female dragons and is sometimes used as a form of communication between the sexes.

There are several different species of bearded dragons and their behavior varies, to see the variety of species please visit our post about different types of bearded dragons.

The bearded dragon is a very social animal and it communicates through gestures such as bobbing heads at one another, flattening their bodies as they circle each other and gaping their mouths. They will also swish out their tails and use their tongues to check out each other and their environment.

Their range of gestures also includes submissive gesturing which is used to tell another dragon to back off, this is done by raising one arm and either holding it still or moving it slowly in a circular movement. In the wild they are quick to establish a hierarchy but in captivity adapt to their carers and aggressive gestures become less obvious – except when there is new territory to conquer.

Bearded dragons are curious creatures and like to be out and about exploring their environment. Some dragons recognize human attempts to mimic their gesturing and if you bob at them they will sometimes bob right back. The dragon has a laid back but very interactive nature and often appear to be trying to communicate with their carers. However, if you have ever seen a number of bearded dragons together then you will know that their full social repertoire is reserved for each other.

If you have more than one dragon then you will be able to observe their hierarchical behaviour as one may climb on top of another. Male and female dragons will display mating behaviour but sometimes this can be overly aggressive and they may need separate housing. Very often dragons breed well in captivity and when they are properly incubated the eggs hatch well.

Captive stock is often healthier and parasite free when obtained from reputable breeders. Captive breeding has also resulted in a number of different color changes, even though such dragons are of the same species. Most of the dragons available today are bred in captivity either in the USA or Germany as it is now illegal to export them from their native land of Australia.

It sometimes happens that if you have two dragons or more then one will stop eating and may require special feeding. This generally indicates that they are feeling intimidated by the others and may need to given separate quarters.

Should you decide to get your dragon a companion then try to ensure that it is of a compatible size. It is not unknown for bigger dragons to eat their smaller companions.

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-behavior/feed0New To Beardies – Caring For A Bearded Dragonhttp://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/new-to-beardies-caring-for-a-bearded-dragon
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/new-to-beardies-caring-for-a-bearded-dragon#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:42:51 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=627more →]]>It is always a bit scary when something’s life depends on your ability to learn what makes them happiest and what keeps them alive. You have to do all of this with nothing other than a few head bobs from your beardie. They have that strange twist-of-the-head look that says, “Are you sure you know what you are doing?”

There are a few things to start off with, without a doubt. Make sure you read through this site and keep a reputable supplier on hand – we have take care of that for you. The second thing is to have a herp vet in your phonebook.

A herp vet isn’t someone we are recommending to run to often, however when you need one, it won’t be the time to be hunting for one. Not everyone has one in town. If you are having trouble finding a herp vet, call your local zoo and ask who they use. We found that our zoos usually outsource when it comes to lizard expertise.

We recently took our little guy to the herp vet to get him checked out. We were fearful something was wrong because he hadn’t eaten in awhile. It turned out that our early determination was incorrect and our little guy happen to be a little girl. Our little girl was ovulating which causes a decrease in appetite. All we can say to that is wow or maybe more appropriately, oops!

All information in this caresheet has come from our personal experience and/or research. Many ‘opinions’, in many areas of care, vary from one person to another and can be controversial. Please remember though, these are all opinions and contained here are ours.
General Description

The Inland, or Central Bearded Dragon certainly inherited their name in all honesty. it was derived from the way they can enlarge or ‘blow out’ a flap of skin under their lower jaw when upset or disturbed. Aside from blowing their beard out, they may also darken the color there to almost black which creates a bearded display. The Bearded Dragon is native to many different habitats and regions of Australia.
They thrive in deserts, grasslands and woodlands… in both unpopulated and populated areas. It is said by many herpetologists who have come across Beardies in the wild, that one can walk right up to one and the little guy would not mind… and possibly even pick it up with little or no fuss being raised by the animal. Their temperament is extremely docile and trusting, therefore making it an excellent pet – even for children and beginners. The adults can reach up to approximately 2ft in length, with the average being 18 – 20 inches. Hatchlings are approximately 3 to 4 inches in length (head to tail) and should be 5-6 inches at the end of their first month. By the end of their second month, they should be at least 6-7 inches in length with considerable more body weight. We have found that with proper care and a little luck, dragons can reach 9 inches within 2 months, with the average being 8 inches. From 2 – 6 months, we have found the average growth rate to be approximately 1/2 inch a week, with some weeks being 1 inch or more to 1/4 inch or less.

General Care

Once the basics are learned in caring for the bearded Dragon and they are acclimated in their home, they are low maintenance pets.
Selection

Selecting the animal to be your new pet is one of the most important steps toward success in maintaining bearded dragons. When purchasing a dragon online, it is basically done through an ‘honor system’. The animal you receive should be robust appearing with ample fat stores at the base of its tail (generally, it is possible to determine the overall health of all lizards by examining the base of the tail for fat stores). Beware of protruding bones at the base of the tail. Take notice to the dragons eyes in particular – are they noticeably recessed? If so, it is possible that the dragon is becoming dehydrated. A healthy dragon should appear alert with both eyes wide open and attentive to its environment.

Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
A minimum of a 20 gallon long (30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 12 3/4) vivarium is needed to achieve a reasonable gradient of temperatures. Aggressive tendencies, injuries and other complications such as the loss of limbs and tails and even death have been noted when attempting to house more than one dragon together.
Adult (12 months +)
A minimum size of a 40 gallon breeder (36 3/16 x 18 1/4 x 16 15/16) to house one adult is recommended. Bearded dragons are not social creatures by nature and only gather together for mating purposes. Aggressive tendencies, injuries and other complications have been noted when attempting to house more than one dragon together.

Substrates

Substrates are a highly debated topic among experienced owners, keepers and breeders. Opinions vary with experience and skill.
Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
Babies are safely raised on a non particle substrate material such as reptile carpet, shelf liner, butcher paper, paper towels, or ceramic tiles. By using a non particle substrate the chance of impaction from the substrate is gone. Additionally, the possibility of bacteria forming is greatly reduced.

If you find a unique rock or piece of wood outside that you would like to use, simply bake it in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit for 2 hours.
Rocks

We choose to use River Rocks for basking areas in our enclosures. They are smooth for easy cleaning and when placed under a basking light, get very warm and provide heat to the beardies underbelly, which aids in digestion. This way they receive heat from the top – via a basking light, and from the bottom – via the heated rock.

Branches

These make beautiful additions to a cages set-up. A few things to keep in mind when choosing to add branches to the environment is that the branch will not conduct/absorb heat as well as a rock. You will need to monitor the temperature to be sure it is adequate for your dragon to digest its food. Branches also make a great hiding place for small crickets. Crickets will crawl into any split or peeling bark that they can find… so be sure to shake out the branch in the evening to avoid excess crickets running around when the lights go out.

Hide Boxes

This is a no-no for small dragons. The dragon may decide to hide instead of bask and therefore will not eat well and grow properly. This is also the favorite place for crickets to hide. Its cool and dark, which makes for a perfect gathering place… so, unless you like to chase crickets around before the lights go out, hide boxes are something to avoid.

Lighting and Heating

Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
UVA lighting provides heat in the form of indoor flood lights, reptile bulbs or typical household bulbs. The wattage of the bulb required to reach proper basking temperatures of 105-110F (measured with a digital thermometer) for a baby depends on the size of the tank, the ambient temperature inside your house, cage decor and it’s proximity to the basking site. Timers found at local hardware stores can make life much easier. Heat bulbs and UVB bulbs can be set up by a timer. It is recommended for lights to be on for 14 hours and off for 10 hours. There should be a good gradient temp between the basking site and the cool end. The ambient temperature for the cool side should be 70-85F with the temp closer to 85F for a baby.
UVB lighting provides rays essential for good physical and mental health. UVB fixtures should be no less than 18 inches long and should be placed directly on top of the screen top so that the dragon can get within 6-8 inches of the light. Longer fixtures reaching the length of the tank will help ensure good exposure. Some fixtures come with a plastic lens over the bulb that should be removed before using. All UVB bulbs should be replaced at least every 6 months.

Adult (12 months +)
UVA lighting provides heat in the form of indoor flood lights, reptile bulbs or typical household bulbs. The wattage of the bulb required to reach proper basking temperatures of 100-102* (measured with a digital thermometer) for a dragon depends on the size of the tank, the ambient temperature inside your house, cage decor and it’s proximity to the basking site. Timers found at local hardware stores can make life much easier. Heat bulbs and UVB bulbs can be set up by a timer. It is recommended for lights to be on for 14 hours and off for 10 hours. There should be a good gradient temp between the basking site and the cool end. The ambient temperature of the cool side should be 70-85F with the temp being closer to 80F for an adult.

UVB lighting provides rays essential for good physical and mental health. UVB fixtures should be no less than 18 inches long and should be placed directly on top of the screen top so that the dragon can get within 6-8 inches of the light. Longer fixtures reaching the length of the tank will help ensure good exposure. Some fixtures come with a plastic lens over the bulb that should be removed before using. UVB bulbs should be replaced at least every 6 months.

Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
Proteins and greens are important to a bearded dragon diet.
Babies need to be fed a ratio of 80% protein and 20% greens. This breaks down to feeding a baby 2-3 times a day as many crickets as they can eat in 10 minutes. The crickets should be no bigger than the space between the bearded dragon’s eyes. If feeding in the same tank as the bearded dragon is living in, all uneaten crickets should be removed. Make sure that one feeding a day for 6 days is dusted with a calcium dust. This dust should have Vitamin D3 and should be phosphorus free. On the 7th day make sure you dust one feeding of crickets with a multi-vitamin. Offer a fresh variety of greens daily. It usually takes awhile for babies to adjust to greens, keep trying as they will eventually eat them. Salad examples are listed below.
Adult (12 months +)
Adult bearded dragon’s food ratio should be 80% greens 20% protein. Proteins can be fed all in one day or broken up between a couple of days, whichever is better for the owner and dragon. Dust with calcium one week then dust with a multivitamin the next. Offer a fresh variety of greens. Salad examples are listed below.

Proteins
The below protein chart is for daily consumption based on age and protein type. The quantities are averages based on data collected. Each dragon is different and some may eat more or less than the number listed.

Fruits can be offered as a treat weekly. Examples are cantaloupe, blueberries, peaches, pears, grapes, plums, raspberries. NO citric fruit should be offered. Ensure fruits are chopped fine to avoid choking.

]]>http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-general-information/feed0Bearded Dragon Feeding – Why Am I Not Eating?http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-feeding-why-am-i-not-eating
http://mybeardie.com/bearded-dragon-blog/bearded-dragon-feeding-why-am-i-not-eating#commentsSat, 09 Apr 2011 21:39:38 +0000http://mybeardie.com/?p=623more →]]>In the 2 ½ years we have been beardie owners, we have undergone a rollercoaster of events with ours. That first year was so stressful because of all the information that is out there and all the warnings that our Bernie could get impacted so easily.

All the warnings – make sure his food is as big as the space between his eyes, make sure he eats his veggies, make sure he gets baths regularly, make sure his lighting is right…. The list goes on and on. The end result was always do this or he could DIE. No wonder, I was so stressed the first few months we had him.

During our experience and chatting with reputable beardie breeders, we found that the most common reason for beardies not eating was due to lighting and temperatures. Beardies body temperatures need to rise in order for them to realize they are hungry and properly digest the foods.

It is recommended that their basking areas reach between 95°F and 105°F. And their cool side should be around 85°F. Night temperatures should not fall below 65°F.

Another reason for not eating is not enough UVA/UVB exposure. The best exposure to these rays for our beardies is natural UVA/UVB light. For those that do not live in 85°F year round, we can’t provide outdoor exposure. The answer to this is using a good light bulb. We recommend the ReptiSun 10.0 tube. This particular bulb is effective up to 20 inches away from your beardie. It is also just as effective under a screen, where most UVA/UVB bulbs loose 50% of their wavelengths.

Calcium and Vitamin D come into play with beardies not eating too. Make sure you feed your beardie gut loaded crickets or canned crickets sprinkled with calcium powder a couple of times a week. Vitamin D is also a side effect of getting the right UVA/UVB exposure.

Your beardie may not be eating if he/she is not properly hydrated. We’ve never had luck with keeping water in our terrarium. So, we’ve taken the routine of a weekly bath and squirting water from a spray bottle every other day. If your beardie is less than a year old, baths should be more frequent – at least 3 times a week. Bernard enjoys the spray bottle and comes to greet us when he sees it.

Or perhaps your beardie is ovulating. We took ours to a herp vet last summer because his behavior was off. He wasn’t eating, he wouldn’t chase crickets, he slept during the day and he wasn’t pooping regularly. It turns out our he was a she and she was ovulating, which tends to put them in a dormant state similar to when they brumate. I know, I still reference our Bernie as a he. Some habits are hard to break.

So, if your little beardie is not eating, check your temps and check your lighting. If these things seem to be fine, you may want to consider a trip to the vets. They can pick up a number of diseases and your beardie may need some medicine to get better.