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my rt is leaking down the barrel and stops leaking after a few seconds when you pull the trigger, i changed the carriers over, the one that was in had 3 dots on it, put two different sized ones in, one with 2 lines and 3 dots and one with 2 lines and 1 dot but both were worse than the first, the marker has no shims in it either.

iv checked the orings and all seem fine and also lubed it thru the ASA with hoppes oil, i got about 4000 balls thru it over 2 different days paintballing before it started leaking, it was fine before that the marker is set at 280FPS (ish) and also has an x valve

my rt is leaking down the barrel and stops leaking after a few seconds when you pull the trigger, i changed the carriers over, the one that was in had 3 dots on it, put two different sized ones in, one with 2 lines and 3 dots and one with 2 lines and 1 dot but both were worse than the first, the marker has no shims in it either.

iv checked the orings and all seem fine and also lubed it thru the ASA with hoppes oil, i got about 4000 balls thru it over 2 different days paintballing before it started leaking, it was fine before that the marker is set at 280FPS (ish) and also has an x valve

I think you are reading something incorrectly. The carriers are sized by lines and dots. The lines represent full sizes. The dots represent half sizes. The carrier sizing goes as follows:

Try finding the sequential size of your carriers and try again. Move down in size until the leak stops. The carrier and oring should be snug on the bolt stem but still move freely. If it is tight and the gun still leaks, try changing the carrier oring and tune again. If it still leaks, check your sear for wear.

Only use good quality sythetic lubricant. Petrolium based products will destroy the orings in the gun.

okay, i tuned up my level 10 a week ago, aired it up no leaks using no shims and either 1.5 or 1.0 carier (cant remember). shot about 15-20 times no leaks. today i went to air it up, each shot progressively gets lower in velocity, if i dont shoot for a 10-12 seconds, ill hear air start to come out the back of the regulator, pulling trigger will stop leak but the first ball is coming out hot, and the next one lower and it will double feed consistently on the 3rd or 4th consecutive shot. its a minimag classic "center fire #0133" valve. serial# mm17482. mechanical trigger assembly, compressed air. a little help please

okay, i tuned up my level 10 a week ago, aired it up no leaks using no shims and either 1.5 or 1.0 carier (cant remember). shot about 15-20 times no leaks. today i went to air it up, each shot progressively gets lower in velocity, if i dont shoot for a 10-12 seconds, ill hear air start to come out the back of the regulator, pulling trigger will stop leak but the first ball is coming out hot, and the next one lower and it will double feed consistently on the 3rd or 4th consecutive shot. its a minimag classic "center fire #0133" valve. serial# mm17482. mechanical trigger assembly, compressed air. a little help please

It sounds like your regulator seat oring is bad or the pin needs lubed.

valve not taking in air

I checked the regulator seat that you said and replaced it with one from my repair kit, put a very small amount of oil on the pin, another small drop into the hole marked 'oil' on the bottom of the valve, but when I aired it up to test-fire, the marker wouldnt shoot at all. not even a sputter. there is air going into the fitting into the valve and my tank has 2000psi left. i turned up the velocity gradually pulling the trigger for a little more than a 1/4 turn but still nothing it was firing before, very strange. i checked the on/off assembly, everything was fine. any thoughts?

ya i checked it, its all clean appears to be totally normal/functional, but the valve refuses to take in air, the trigger and sear pin is totally limp. based on the past recharge problems and this maybe the entire regulator piston assembly is shot?

New x-valve Problems.....won't fire!!!

I just got a new x-valve for my 68 automag. I installed it exactly like the directions said and turned up the velocity (using a high pressure tank) untill it cocked and then pulled the trigger once and it wouldn't fire anymore. It was like there wasnt enough pressure to cock it back or something. I tried using: 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, using a smaller o-ring carrier, using the different size springs all with the same result.....no firing!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

ya i checked it, its all clean appears to be totally normal/functional, but the valve refuses to take in air, the trigger and sear pin is totally limp. based on the past recharge problems and this maybe the entire regulator piston assembly is shot?

Now, that problem sounds like bolt stick caused by a carrier that is too tight. Try pushing back on the front of the bolt. If the trigger rod snaps forward when you push the bolt back, you will know for sure.

I just got a new x-valve for my 68 automag. I installed it exactly like the directions said and turned up the velocity (using a high pressure tank) untill it cocked and then pulled the trigger once and it wouldn't fire anymore. It was like there wasnt enough pressure to cock it back or something. I tried using: 3 shims, 1 shim, no shims, using a smaller o-ring carrier, using the different size springs all with the same result.....no firing!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Remove all the shims to start. Then put in a larger (not smaller) carrier with your oring. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Start with the short bolt spring. Turn up the velocity until it fires reliably. Once you get it firing without leaks you can go to the middle red spring and further tweak your setup.

i tried pushing the bolt back with a squeegee but to no avail, nothing happened. very strange. im going to send it in to agd i went through all the troubleshooting on their site as well. thanks anyway for your help, i appreciate it.

i tried pushing the bolt back with a squeegee but to no avail, nothing happened. very strange. im going to send it in to agd i went through all the troubleshooting on their site as well. thanks anyway for your help, i appreciate it.

Take the valve apart and give it a good cleaning. Lub it well as you put it back together. Mag valves are very easy to maintain. Very seldom is there ever a problem that can't be solved by replacing a damaged oring or removing a piece of dirt.

Remove all the shims to start. Then put in a larger (not smaller) carrier with your oring. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Start with the short bolt spring. Turn up the velocity until it fires reliably. Once you get it firing without leaks you can go to the middle red spring and further tweak your setup.

I put in a larger o-ring carrier (the second smallest) with the medium (red) spring and 2 shims and it seemed to fire. The only problem was if I tried to fire rapidly, it wouldn't fire everytime it would just make the sound of air coming out untill I would let go of the trigger. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I put in a larger o-ring carrier (the second smallest) with the medium (red) spring and 2 shims and it seemed to fire. The only problem was if I tried to fire rapidly, it wouldn't fire everytime it would just make the sound of air coming out untill I would let go of the trigger. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

You are still getting a bit of bolt stick, plus the vent hole is too close to the carrier oring. Take a shim or two out of the powertube. Use the next larger carrier.

You are still getting a bit of bolt stick, plus the vent hole is too close to the carrier oring. Take a shim or two out of the powertube. Use the next larger carrier.

I tried the next o-ring carrier up but it was too large. I took out a shim and it seemed to shoot pretty good except occasionally it would sound like air down the barrel. I shot paint with it and sometimes it would shoot 2-balls and several times it just dropped the ball out th eend of the barrel. Thanks for all the helpful advice so far......I definately appreciate it. Any more help would be great.

Gun fires while gassisng

I just bought a new tac one and when I gas it up it fires 1 shot most of the time. It had the lvl 10 installed from the factory. I am using a HPA 68-4500 tank. I can hold the trigger down when gassing up and it fires an automatic string. Is this a break in thing for the on/off pin.

I tried the next o-ring carrier up but it was too large. I took out a shim and it seemed to shoot pretty good except occasionally it would sound like air down the barrel. I shot paint with it and sometimes it would shoot 2-balls and several times it just dropped the ball out th eend of the barrel. Thanks for all the helpful advice so far......I definately appreciate it. Any more help would be great.

check your detent, it may be loose, or are you using a force fed hopper?

I tried the next o-ring carrier up but it was too large. I took out a shim and it seemed to shoot pretty good except occasionally it would sound like air down the barrel. I shot paint with it and sometimes it would shoot 2-balls and several times it just dropped the ball out th eend of the barrel. Thanks for all the helpful advice so far......I definately appreciate it. Any more help would be great.

Try using the next shorter bolt spring. Make sure the velocity setting is high enough.

I just bought a new tac one and when I gas it up it fires 1 shot most of the time. It had the lvl 10 installed from the factory. I am using a HPA 68-4500 tank. I can hold the trigger down when gassing up and it fires an automatic string. Is this a break in thing for the on/off pin.

It shouldn't do that. Does it have a ULT? Sounds like an on-off top oring problem. If you have a ULT, remove a shim or two. If you have a retro on-off, clean or change your small top oring. Make sure all the orings are in place.

I appreciate everyones inputs and they are all valid to me. My detent is tight and I use a Empire Reloader B with rip drive. I don't have a ult trigger and no leaks. I have tried it today and it only fired once or twice on gassing up.

I have a reds on/off and it usually bleads the air off for me when I release the pressure. I may have one shot left in the marker, if I don't pull the trigger on that last shot it will not fire on gass up. If I pull the trigger for the last shot the trigger goes limp and it isn't much of a shot. When I gass up again it snaps the trigger and fires the shot.

My Tac One came with a print out on the speed tested and variances. It came ready from the factory ( set at 286). It shoots very accurately and consistant.

I appreciate everyones inputs and they are all valid to me. My detent is tight and I use a Empire Reloader B with rip drive. I don't have a ult trigger and no leaks. I have tried it today and it only fired once or twice on gassing up.

I have a reds on/off and it usually bleads the air off for me when I release the pressure. I may have one shot left in the marker, if I don't pull the trigger on that last shot it will not fire on gass up. If I pull the trigger for the last shot the trigger goes limp and it isn't much of a shot. When I gass up again it snaps the trigger and fires the shot.

My Tac One came with a print out on the speed tested and variances. It came ready from the factory ( set at 286). It shoots very accurately and consistant.

Take the valve apart and clean and lubricate the regulator pin assembly. It may be sticking.

is the x-valve really worth it?

I have a minimag that I love to shoot but it chops most paint like crazy no matter what I do. I also have 2 autocockers that i am growing quite fond of .My question is if I get the level 10 and xvalve along with ULE TRIGGER kit, will this eliminate the chopping and will it outperform the autocockers?

I have a minimag that I love to shoot but it chops most paint like crazy no matter what I do. I also have 2 autocockers that i am growing quite fond of .My question is if I get the level 10 and xvalve along with ULE TRIGGER kit, will this eliminate the chopping and will it outperform the autocockers?

This question should have been asked in a post of its own other than the level 10 issue thread.

The level 10 virtually eliminates chopping on mags when setup properly. The ULT reduces the trigger pull force down to that of an electronic marker. Combine that with an Xvalve and you have a very nice fast mechanical marker. Will it outperform an autococker? That is a question which is very subjective. It depends on what you like. Only you will really know which is better for you.

Okay guys I apologize because I am new to the Automag before I go any further but I am no noob. I just switched over from using a Tippy for the past 7 years. I have an RT automag with a Level 10 installed. I got the gun used a few months ago and it always shot fine. I took it down to the local shop and he tuned it up for me and it was a night and day difference. Shoots amazingly quick and I love it but it began to leak. It started to leak out the back and after some more adjustments and some new Orings that stopped. I took it home and it shot fine for a little while then started to leak down the barrel. He tried a different carrier and the leak settled down quite a bit however it is still noticeable. When shooting fast and the leak continues It will not allow me to shoot for a few seconds and then the trigger pops back out and I can shoot. I just ordered a shim kit from AGD and I hope it came in today. Am I on the correct Pathway here? It is a slight leak down the barrel and is is much better than before but is still there. Thanks for the help in advance!

[QUOTE=athomas]This question should have been asked in a post of its own other than the level 10 issue thread.

sorry athomas I didnt mean be out of line just wasnt sure where to post my ?.

Originally Posted by athomas

This question should have been asked in a post of its own other than the level 10 issue thread.

The level 10 virtually eliminates chopping on mags when setup properly. The ULT reduces the trigger pull force down to that of an electronic marker. Combine that with an Xvalve and you have a very nice fast mechanical marker. Will it outperform an autococker? That is a question which is very subjective. It depends on what you like. Only you will really know which is better for you.

Okay guys I apologize because I am new to the Automag before I go any further but I am no noob. I just switched over from using a Tippy for the past 7 years. I have an RT automag with a Level 10 installed. I got the gun used a few months ago and it always shot fine. I took it down to the local shop and he tuned it up for me and it was a night and day difference. Shoots amazingly quick and I love it but it began to leak. It started to leak out the back and after some more adjustments and some new Orings that stopped. I took it home and it shot fine for a little while then started to leak down the barrel. He tried a different carrier and the leak settled down quite a bit however it is still noticeable. When shooting fast and the leak continues It will not allow me to shoot for a few seconds and then the trigger pops back out and I can shoot. I just ordered a shim kit from AGD and I hope it came in today. Am I on the correct Pathway here? It is a slight leak down the barrel and is is much better than before but is still there. Thanks for the help in advance!

Jon

The trigger sticking is actually bolt stick and is due to the carrier being too tight. It sounds like the original carrier was the correct one. There may have been too many shims in the powertube which caused the leak down the barrel. Remove a shim or two from the powertube.

The trigger sticking is actually bolt stick and is due to the carrier being too tight. It sounds like the original carrier was the correct one. There may have been too many shims in the powertube which caused the leak down the barrel. Remove a shim or two from the powertube.

okay I see what you are saying but I dont have any more carriers I bought the gun and it only came the way it was and had no extra parts. I look on the AGD site and I can buy them one at a time, but I wish I could purchase a whole kit. I am not sure what size I have in there now, how do I check that and whatever it is how do I know whether to go bigger or smaller? Thanks