Linear bearings for Y-carriage are replaced by their longer version LM8LUU. You can also use two LM8UU in row instead of one LM8LUU. You can even use only one LM8UU, in that case put it in center of bearing housing. But with longer bearings the bed is significantly more stable and rigid.
Top end of Z lead screws is secured in 8x22x7 bearings.
You will need some M6 screws and nuts to build the frame and mount printed parts onto it, and some M2,5 screws, M3 screws and self-locking nuts to mount MK2 equipment.

X-home position as well as geometry of Y-carriage can be adjusted by moving Y-rods.
Y-home position can be adjusted by M2,5 screw in Y-belt-holder under the bed.
Y-belt is tightened by simple belt tightener implemented in Y-idler (M2,5 screws).

Important notice:
Parts not listed here (for example whole X axis) are supposed to be taken from your original Mk2 printer without any modifications. If you are building the printer from scratch, you will have to get those parts source files from Prusa's github yourself.

How I Designed This

All parts are designed to be printed easily from ABS without supports and without significant warping.

Regarding holes - usually if the hole is rounded, the screw should go easily inside, the hole might need to be finished by drill. If the hole is hexagonal, the screw is supposed to cut the thread there. Don't use drill on this type of holes.

Parts are designed with exact dimensions. You may need to do necessary adjustments to fit your printer and type of filament.

2017-02-12 redesigned some parts to make them work with standard 3030 extrusion T-nuts

2017-05-09 enlarged slots for 3030 T-nuts (was 8mm, now 10mm)

2017-05-09 redesigned z-axis-top and z-axis-bottom: moved down 5mm to avoid colision of probe protector and Z-motor screw, added tightening screw to top part, added hole for adjusting screws

Brief assembly (conversion) guide

Assemble the frame using only AL profiles and frame couplers, refer RebeliX guide for details. It's in Czech language, but with a lot of images. You can do it. :-) You can find one at http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=04890953869356069651 Original file can be found at http://reprap4u.cz/navod-na-stavbu-3d-tiskarny-rebelix/ but their download link sometimes doesn't work. When assembling the frame, don't forget to slide in required amount of nuts. They will be needed later. Without them you will have to disassemble the frame to mount printed parts. Also remember that rear edge of vertical profiles should be exactly 115mm from back side of the frame as shown on page 13 of RebeliX guide.

Slide in Z rods carefully and stick them in Z-axis-bottoms until they touch motor bodies. You may need to use a little force.

Use M3x16 screws and square M3 nuts to assemble z-axis-top parts. Put 8x22x7 bearings into Z-axis-top parts and slide them on lead screws and Z rods (watch orientation). Tighten to the frame. Check geometry, should be perfect. Put M3x30 screws into prepared hole (see images), it will limit vertical travel of the extruder. You can use the screws later for fine-tune of X-axis level.

Assemble Y-belt (path of belt should be straight), tighten a little using adjusting screws on Y-idler. Don't overstress Y-idler. It's a printer, not guitar.

Check if Y home adjusting screw clicks Y-endstop when in home position. If not, adjust positions of belt pulley + Y-motor-holder, or heatbed.

Return the frame to normal position and check the geometry of Y-carriage. Should be parallel to frame and approx. centered in X axis. Adjust by sliding rod holders in frame. Tighten. Adjust Y belt if needed.

Connect cables to Rambo and check function. Both Rambo and PSU are NOT mounted to frame at this step, just laying around to check function and fine adjust geometry. Watch the cables, they shall not collide with moving parts.

Check adjustment of home position - do Auto Home command. When finished, Z-probe should stay just above probing point. If not, adjust X by moving Y rods left/right (watch the Y-belt), adjust Y by adjusting screw in belt holder. Recheck home position and repeat until satisfied.

=== The printer should be able to work at this point.

Place Rambo mount on the frame. The bottom side is where M3 holes are closer to edge. Align the height of bottom side around the height of heatbed. Don't put it too low, you won't be able to mount and close the casing door. Don't put it too high either, the cables aren't that long. In particular right Z motor cable is way too short.

Mount Rambo in its casing the same way as in Original Prusa i3 MK2.

Now comes the tricky part. You will need to replace power cables for longer ones. You need cables 75cm long. Remove black Prusa cover from PSU, drill a hole to bottom side so new cables can go out from bottom side on outer edge, approximately between mains socket and mains switch. Replace cables and put the cover back.

Mount printed PSU-mount-plug onto the PSU, use the same screws and holes as on MK2.

Slide in printed PSU-mount-sockets.

Attach the PSU assembly to the frame by hand all the way down (bottom side touches frame coupler) and mark the position of sockets on Z frame profile.

Remove sockets from assembly and mount them on the frame at marked positions.

Slide in the PSU.

Slide one AL profile cover (with hole) on both cables, put cables through rear traverse frame profile (via center hole) and fit the cover. Slide another cover on both cables on the other side and fit it on the frame.

Mount connectors on cables and connect power to the Rambo board.

Replace LCD supports by new ones, connect LCD cables at LCD side and then slide both supports into rail in front traverse frame profile.

Fit two AL profile covers on front frame profile, another two on top frame profile.

Finish cable management. I used some RebeliX cable clips combined with zip ties.

When my z axis is near the top, the z top part stops the x carriage from hitting it's homing switch, have I assembled something wrong? When I printed the parts I just mirrored the z top pieces, is there a modified piece for the left side?

Anyone knows if perhaps there is a frame outhere build around the 1"x2" aluminum extrusion frame? 50x25mm metric? Would greatly appreciated. Perhap I can use the parst before I start building it myself.

The problem is most likely in X axis. It's not horizontal, or it is twisted, or its length is not correct.
Remove top z axis holders, hold Z rods by hand and try to get X carriage to the top again (as high as possible). Then compare Z axis rods distance at the top and at the bottom of Z axis. It should be the same.

I have an MK2s and the y roda are 330mm not 360mm so I had to redesign the front y rod holders to accommodate the shorter rods.
A better option would be to cut the frame y length to 290mm. Other than that it is a much stronger and more ridged frame and the Z axis should be perpendicular to the Y. I also am upgrading to the MK2.5 or should that be the MK2.5Xs

It took a while but I've got it together and it's printing beautifully! Excellent excellent prints. No wobble at all. Very precise layers, just a little melting due to lack of cooling fan. (Mine's broken). I printed this owl in ABS since my PLA wouldnt work without cooling, the ears and hat are a little melted because I was printing fast but I think it turned out excellent. I still havent printed out the bearing blocks, I am waiting to get a new cooling fan so I can print them in my orange PLA.

Thank you so much for uploading this design. I would never have been able to attempt something like this myself.

NEMA 17. For X, Y, and extruder I'd reccomend decently sized, but for the Z its essential you get pretty small ones, unless you get ones with the integreated leadscrew. I do not have integrated leadscrews and I ran into problems with the hotend not going low enough (hitting the motors) so if you dont get integrated leadscrews, make sure the motors arent too tall.

While using z couplers? Im also using a thicker bed frame, with thicker bed as well. So my bed is higher than the stock. Im using 38mm motors, and its just BARELY working. And to do so, I had to grind the couplers down conical to make them clear the X ends. So i do not doubt your 34mm motors.

Using 5x8 25mm lenght couplers, the right side works about 2mm between x carriage and couplers, but it just works using 10mm of distance between the stock 6mm y carriage and the 3mm heated bed (where usually I use screw and springs), and using motors axis a little more inside coupler than 8mm acme.

But left side doesn't works, it hits in endstop of x carriage and a little of x carriage. So I thing moving this endstop to another place and using 3mm glass above heated bed give one more little clearance for work, if not, maybe a little cut in left side of X carriage can solve.

Maybe I am being too worried, but it won't decrease y carriage moviment by moving up the belt holder together with the bed? I think the belt
will decompose total force in Y and Z forces.
I worked with a Graber i3 and a prusa i2, the i2 printer has y-rod-holders approximately 20mm taller (exceed taller), and pushing the y carriage of the two printers with the hand I noticed i2 has a bad moviment compared to graber i3.

Printing a lower belt holder together with taller y-rod-holers is needless?

Depends on amount of shift. It will work with few mm offset without any trouble. If you want to offset more, it will be better to enlarge belt holder as well. Alternatively you can use longer spacers between y-carriage and heat bed.

Hello, I have downloaded your design improvements to the mk2 profile 30 30 30. I have a question about the parts that hold the x axis, the motor and the other. I think they are not in the package of pieces that are irretrievable. Thanks for the design.

Sorry, I can't. It's been designed in Sketchup, source files link has been mentioned here earlier (see older posts). I don't know how to convert into Solidworks format, you will have to try it yourself.

EDIT: ah maybe your problem is rather the slot width? Maybe this design needs to be redone in #openSCAD?
I would gladly be of help since I will build one of these on my own (have not decided upon AL profile size yet though).

2020 profiles require a lot of changes in design. Please read older comments about 2020 in this discussion, I doubt I'll have anything new to say.
Redesign in OpenSCAD means to design most of the parts completely from scratch. They're designed in Sketchup, there is no easy way to convert them.

Thanks, yes I understand that a total rehaul is neccesary.
This is a 20x20 remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1977646, though it is still .STL files and a non specified slot-width(assumes 6mm).
However I would be interested if my assumptions on AL lenghts are correct above?

Im nearly finished, axes are moving! But im a little confused with the y motor mount. is it supposed to be upside down? I have my motor attatched to the right as you do in the picture but the bed hits it and will not move further.

Tape wasn't working, i was able to find a failed print.. i cut it up and put it under the bearings and now it just barely clears the motor. This is just temporary of course but it'll let me get the permanent fix printed.

Oh. I literally just noticed there's a bearing housing. Welp. That'll be one of the first things to print then haha

It could be possible that i cut the bearing holes too wide and so they sit further inside the bed than they should. I've been thinking about it for a while and i think i'm going to wrap the bearings with a few mm of tape to lift the bed, just temporarily, until i can print some blocks to raise the bearings with.

I know, i just didnt notice there was bearing housings since the original mk2 doesnt use them, right? Theyll be some of the first things i print when the printer is running. Im working on firmware now.

I just finished my build and now have a Problem. :/ While XYZ-Calibration the X-Axis moves to far and wont "hit" the first (middle) calibration point in the front of the heatbed..
I don't wanted to "reuse" my original prusa i3 mk2. I wanted to build a separate Printer. I bought some "original" Parts from the Prusa shop like the board (Mini Rambo), Pinda,... The steppers, belt and pulley are from eBay. The stepper has a 1.8° step angle. This seems to be correct. I flasehd the firmware from the prusa website.
Do you guys have a suggestion for me what could cause my Problem?
Could this be caused from a wrong radius/teethnumber on the pulley?

Im going to use a remixed version with the 8mm probe. I already have a 200mm aluminum heatbed that works nicely. Thank you! Glad its compatible since i spent $250 on parts last night... Really looking forward to putting this together. I bought some prusa orange filament and black anodize extrusions, and black bolts. Gonna look super sharp.

You should be OK with that, I use similar setup on one of my printers based on this design as well. It requires a bit of playing with Marlin configuration, but that is the most funny part, isn't it? Good luck.

Hello, I accidentally ordered 350mm instead of 360mm rods for the Y axis. (Came in a kit of 370, 350, 320) Unfortunately now I cant get my Y axis put together. I was wondering if you could possibly make a rod holder piece with the screw holes moved 10mm outward so i can use my rods? (The holder moves 10mm into the inside of the frame), it's save me $15 for the rods and the two weeks they'd take to ship here.

So far i've got the frame put together, and the X axis + carriage. Coming along great so far. This is a great build and im really looking forward to the finished product. I've spend the past few days cutting out the bed out of 1/2in plywood on the bandsaw + scroll saw.. coming out great.

I've posted a make, ill be updating it as I go.

Also, I was hoping you could measure the distance of the back of the vertical 3030 extrusions to the back of the frame? I doubt they should be exactly centered, and if you could measure it for me it'd save me the time of trial and error-ing it with the X axis on, centering the nozzle.\

One last thing, about how much does the bed protrude from the frame of the printer at it's maximum and minimum? Im wondering if I have enough space on my desk. (Having it push itself off the table and onto the floor would be.. unfortune haha)

I was wondering if you could possibly make a rod holder piece with the screw holes moved 10mm outward so i can use my rods? (The holder moves 10mm into the inside of the frame)

Unfortunately, this won't work. There is only very small clearance between y-rod-holder and y-bearing-holder to achieve full 200mm movement in Y axis (actually it has to move a bit more than 200mm).
Your rods as 10mm shorter. I think you should be quite OK with that. It makes 5mm shorter on each side, there is still enough space on y-rod-holder to keep the rods in place. Only make sure they are not moving along with the bed carriage.

Do you have .step files I could have? I'd like to just extrude the back face where the rod sits 5mm, so itll still be centered but it will have positive stops on either side. Also, what length screws did you use for the parts connected to the frame?

edit: Nevermind, i was able to do it. I converted the stl mesh to a solid in fusion 360 and was able to extrude it. I uploaded it as a remix, though i really doubt anyone will ever print it except me.

All the files that are not on this thingiverse page are available from Prusa. I think the designer opted from including them here so it wouldnt seem like they were passing off Prusa's designs as their own. You can get the X axis and carriage and other stock parts here: http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/

I can't finish calibration because the bed can't travel to the front of the frame. Have I done something wrong? To clarify, when the nozzle is trying to find calibration point at the back (the 3rd point), it does not go back enough for it to find. When the printer tries to go to its max Y travel, the belt clamp hits the idler.

Edit: Actually, upon further inspection, the bearing holders are hitting the rod holders.

Check dimensions. With 3030 extrusions the frame should be 380mm long in Y axis. Also check position of Z frame relative to XY frame. It should be exactly 115mm from back edge, see RebeliX assembly guide page 13. Look at thing description for the link.

Pictures show you did not keep the right position of Z frame. It should be 115mm from back edge of the frame, measured from image it looks like at least 140mm from back edge (the very back edge, not inner back edge), it is too far, that's why you can't move the carriage far enough.

It's a great build. Unfortunately the 30x30 profiles I ordered have the slots only 6.35mm wide instead of 8mm (industrial profiles with rounded edges) so most of the parts don't fit. :( Furthermore, the M6 screws I ordered have heads 13mm wide so they don't fit too (into the y-rod holders). I am screwed. :) Any chance you could please share the SCAD files? It would be an easy fix to modify the models for my materials.
I would greatly appreciate. Thank you!

Hi, I would like to do do mk2s update to this desing (having original bearings with the metal holders). Because of that I need to have the y-motor-holder and y-belt-holder 7.7mm lower compared to the crew going into the profile.

Do you have original scad files? It is not a big issue for me to adopt those changes.

I hope i will not run into issues with X axe too low and hitting z motors.

Is there a version of this out there for 2020 profiles? I've got a folgertech i3 2020, and I would like to re-locate my z axis motors to the bottom to be more like an original prusa kit. I like the look of these models, but the aluminum profile size isn't the same as my kit.

I'm not asking about the frame or the rods for the y-axis. I'm asking about the carriage to which the lm8uu's are mounted for the y-axis.

In the instruction manual that's written in Czech, the part is listed as "Deska" which according to Google means plate. It is hard to tell from the pictures if davtr used the "plate" that Prusa Research provides or not.

Hi MrEgeland, You should have enough with one spool, however you are printing some extras which might take up a bit more or your plastic. I would order just one and print what you can, worst case scenario, you order more before you disasemble your original if that is your plan. I don't have the weight of all the pieces, sorry. Put it this way, I printed mine using a single roll of filament and also printed some extra pieces as backups or just different itterations(designs) for trial and error. I.E. I printed two different z-tops because davtr had redesigned the original into a more refined design. Thanks Davtr btw.

Hi,
I am a little confused, i print the z-axis-bottom and z-axis-top 2x.
Now I have 2 right side z-axis-top and 2 left side z-axis-bottom. Should not there be left and right side of both?
Thanks for your help.

Hey i3Fan, depending on your software you are using this could differ. However in Simplify3d you can mirror a product over a certain axis. I.E. import a z-axis top- copy and paste another-select 1 of the two and mirror it over the axis. If you find you have selected the wrong axis to mirror over, undo function works great :)

You can adjust horizontal level of X axis assembly using M3x30 screws in those screwholes. Just set the screws and then move X axis up until it hits the screws. It is part of XYZ calibration process in Prusa FW.

Hello davtr, I am printing the new Z-axis top and bottoms. What size screw is used on the top z-axis tightening screw hole?
My build is almost complete. Waiting on some additional Hardware as I am building from scratch.
Thanks again

Detailed what are the 3d prints above? Is the print good? Or else there are other problems such as poor results or rough prints etc. Please give details clarity, because I want to recommend to my friend if this 3d printer is good in use.

Hi! As a beginner in all this, I'm just amazed by your work! Thank you very much! I would be very grateful if you could link to all X-carriage assembly with extruder... i have not nothing yet :) Only expression and expectation of magic when I can immerse myself in the world of 3d printing :) I already ordered an aluminum profile and a printin' of the details that you so kindly provided. Now I'm dreaming of my own 3d printer and absorbing the abundance of information :) It's all so exciting!

Please note that this project is not designed for building MK2 printer from scratch. It's designed as rework of existing MK2 printer, you'll need some knowledge and experience to build new printer based on this design.

Is there a version of the X Ends that use LM8UU bearings instead of the RJMP? I have a surplus of LM8UU's and want to use them. I have been searching but dont want to waste the hours printing just to find out they dont line up with the linear rod and lead screw.

Hi, I really like your adaptation of prusa i3 mk2 vs. rebelix. It's awesome. I had already built my own Rebelix but I would like to make some changes - right now I would like to reprint my Rebelix to this one. But I have a some questions - I see that I will have problems with flexible couplings for Z axes 5x8mm. Can you tell me if it is enough space between trapeizodal 8mm rod and smooth rod for Z axes? Or what is a distance between them? And next problem what I see is that due to change from original Wade extruder of Rebelix to the Direct Extruder I have a problem with homing Z axe because X motor is touching flexible coupling of Z axe first then I touch bed with my nozzle. But I will see how it will fit.. And my last question is which filament you use for this. I like this orange, I understand that is the ABS but from which producet if it is not secret. Thank you so much for this design is really awesome. ;)

see that I will have problems with flexible couplings for Z axes 5x8mm. Can you tell me if it is enough space between trapeizodal 8mm rod and smooth rod for Z axes?

There is enough space for flexible couplings, but there is another problem using them. Big advantage of using trapezoidal lead screw is quite fast and accurate movement of Z axis allowing to use Lift-Z feature (Z-hopping). But flexible couplings efectively deny that because of their axial flexibility. They cause significant backlash.

And my last question is which filament you use for this. I like this orange, I understand that is the ABS but from which producet if it is not secret.

I fully understand issue about the flexible coupling therefore I must think about the reason why a lot of reprap machines using them? So what I should to do now? It's possible or not that I simply fix trapeizodal screw with motor shaft like "hard connection", without any flexibility? Or it is not so easy? Trapeizodal lead screw means that trapeizodal screw its part of stepper motor (it is connect directly to motor shaft) correct?

And I'm so sorry for my questiones because I'm new in 3D printing (roughly few months). However I'm trying to test new type of extruders, constructions, polymers, etc. and I would like to find better solutions for some weak parts of Rebelix, etc.

finally a printer i want to create!! looks simple enough!! all ill need is the aluminum parts and the rods, screws correct? i have ramps and all the motors and good stuff!! sorry first time builder of a thingiverse printer!! pretty happy i found this one!! tooks some diging on thingi

I like your enthusiasm but please keep in mind that this project was designed primarily for owners of original MK2 or at least MK2 upgrade of MK1. Of course you'll be able to finish the printer using other parts, but I'm sure there will be some issues you'll have to resolve yourself, which might be quite difficult task especially if this is your first build of 3D printer with no previous experience.

Hobby 3D printers are not a rocket science. Any hardened steel rods will be OK. Much more important is where are you from, actually I buy steel rods in local hardware shop, just because it's closest option.

Are you kidding??? I upgraded from chinese shafts to Thomson Linear Race shafting, and the difference was night and day.

How about you purchase some shafts from Aliexpress, and also some shafts from Thomson, and then you might be able to figure out that there is a HUGE difference between dirt cheap shafts and precision linear motion shafts. I would HIGHLY recommend against getting them from a local hardware store, and instead get them custom cut from a linear motion type company, any city would have a couple.

Your right, its not rocket science. Ironically you fail to grasp some pretty simple and crucial concepts. Don't be so smug and post "the let me google that for you", and then follow it up with a rude remark about rocket science, when you are completely wrong.

Without original MK2 you won't get required heatbed. Of course it is possible to build similar printer using other parts, but you will have to find out how to do it and most likely modify some printed parts to fit the components you use.
Anyway, you can use online documentation from manual.prusa3d.com to find out parts list.

Hi, thank for you design, i am interested in build one for me. i Have some questions, do you have improvements in print quality? What are the significant differences with the previous printer about the print quality.
Thanks

Yes, you should be able to use T-nuts with latest version of printed parts (updated Feb 12)

Why do i need new PSU cables?

Read instructions. Original ones are too short to make them tidy.

Are my able to print these parts out in PETG?

Sure. Use a bit more of infill since PETG is more flexible than ABS.

Are there any adjustments i need to in the firmware or does this work as normal when i turn it on?

The printer works with original firmware. Only XYZ calibration is a bit tricky, new frame is a bit higher than original one. Nothing complicated, just keep X axis leveled and the nozzle at initial calibration height above the heatbed (208mm) when asked for moving the extruder all way up. And be ready to immediately reset the printer if anything goes wrong during selftest and calibration.

Thank You very much for the reply, the 609ZZ bearing are for top of z axis? I have read that it is best to keep the top of the rods free for alignment? what did you use instead of T-Nuts? and as for XYZ calibration does it need to be exact 208mm? or will probe compensate?
and also for the PSU cables what size cable did you use (AWG/gauge)?
sorry for so many questions but just want to make sure i know what I'm getting myself into.
Thanks

as for XYZ calibration does it need to be exact 208mm? or will probe compensate?

You will have to move extruder (X-axis) all way up as first step of calibration process. On original MK2 this ensures X-axis is level and in exactly defined height. Calibration process then moves X-axis down and begins searching for calibration points to find out printer geometry. If you move it too high, it won't be able to track the calibration point. If you move it too low, it will crash into heatbed. There is some safe range, I guess 206-210mm.

for the PSU cables what size cable did you use (AWG/gauge)?

The same as original one. ;-) I don't know. It should be able to carry currents of about 25A, so you should be ok with 12AWG.

12AWG might be quite thick.
Heatbed is rated 15A, hotend not more than 5A, so total of 25A is peak power which is quite rare situation. I think you should be ok with 14AWG or maybe even 16AWG. Better check original cables before buying new ones.

Well that's quite tough question. :-) Unfortunately I didn't build up any BOM during building phase of the frame so I haven't got any record of consumed screws. Most of M6 were M6x6 and M6x8. Too long screws will collide with 3030 extrusions. I made myself supplies of M6x6, M6x8, M6x10 and M6x12 (50 pcs each) and used them as needed.
M3 - I really don't know. Some for Y bearing housings, some for Y-belt-holder (original ones are too short), one longer for Y-idler pulley, maybe original fits ok. I don't remember any more M3. Edit: of course - Rambo case and PSU need some M3 too. And I remember I reused some M3 from original kit frame.
M2.5 are used only as adjustment screws on Y-idler and Y-belt-holder, I think they are M2.5x15

I'm not at the right computer at the moment. What exactly doesn't work for you? Mirroring (flipping) process is quite simple in Slic3r. Just add the model, right click on it, choose Mirror->Mirror by X (or Y) and done.

Really basic question: How can you ensure that the nuts and bolts for the frame will tighten? I'm about to order parts and can't get it out of my head the idea of nuts just spinning endlessly inside the profile and then the whole frame being loose...

I see from the Rebeli-x project they used the m6 with a flange which I believe has a diameter of 14.2mm. This being a circular flange, will it not just spin inside the profile when I try to tighten it? I was considering square nuts as an alternative to avoid this.

Thanks for the reply. Are you able to tell me a more precise number of bolts and lengths required? I'm converting from the original i3 mk2 so any screws that came with that I will still have.

So far I've got:
16 m6x14mm for the corner couplers top and bottom
20 m6x14mm for the flat L brackets
8 m6x14mm for the y-rod holders
8 m6x14mm for the top of z axis
4 m3x14mm for the feet on bottom corner couplers
6 m3x14mm for the y bearing housings

I have copy of prusa i3. Hictop 3dp11 and I got some extra parts like 1.3RAMPS etc.
Could I use the parts and this frame etc. and get it to work?
basically just buy same parts as for origanl hictop but use sturdier frame?
Tho it has smaller table, only 270x220, is that problem at all actually?

I know these are stupid questions but I just want to confirm them before starting to order stuff.
What stepper motors would you guys recommend?

270x220 is actually a bit larger than original i3 MK2 heatbed, but it should fit into the frame since there is still some space with MK2 heatbed mounted. But I'm not sure you will be able to use all area of heatbed for printing without some modifications to X-axis or extruder.

You will most likely not be able to make the printer work with shortened Y rods (without further modifications) since MK2 needs to calibrate Z before print and it needs full movement range in X/Y for that calibration.

Longer bearings first of all. If you make the LM8UU holders shorter, there could be also collision between y-carriage and the frame or y-axis printed parts. I can't tell exactly what could go wrong, I never tried that.

It's been told in thing details summary. ;-) In short - no more fiddling with frame geometry when trying to achieve perfect XYZ calibration. No more lost calibrations after moving the printer from one place to another.

I can attest to that, I've recently finished building this. Calibration came back as perpendicular on the first try, and while I've not seen any quality improvement, I have had two benefits: my bed seems to now be perfectly flat and I can easily up the print speed to 60mm/s (PLA) without it shaking itself to death.

Brilliant rework of the frame. I Havent got my Mk2 yet, will probably be here in SA on March 15th but this is the first thing I am going to do. The design looks really good and much more sturdy than the original.

I have a couple of questions though. Is the PSU attached to the z-axis frame and just resting on the bottom frame, or is it attached to the bottom frame too? Also, did you assemble the printed and print the part for the new frame and then disassemble the old one and reassemble the new one, or are those parts printed on a different printer? I am also going to do some research to see if its possible to have the T-slot anodized black.

Is the PSU attached to the z-axis frame and just resting on the bottom frame, or is it attached to the bottom frame too?

PSU is attached to Z frame only.

are those parts printed on a different printer?

No. I bought MK2, because my old printer was unreliable, obsolete and not worth any upgrades. I assembled and calibrated MK2, disassembled old printer to bare frame only, then I started to design new printed parts. I tried hard to design it the way it needed very little effort to switch components from one frame to the other one. If you are handy enough and got all parts ready, moving X/Z axis to new frame takes only about half an hour to the point where it is able to work again.

This should work since the most crucial parts to get are the Heated Bed and the probe. Rambo can be bought seperatly or even changed for any other board that drives marlin. PSU, LCD etc are standard parts which u can get everywhere.

I will go this way since I dont see the point spending 700€ on a printer I completely want to rework.

I am not sure why you would adapt this to DAVTR's work. At this point, you would be upscaling all (or most) of your 2020 to 3030. You would have a "non-Folgertech Prusa I3 3030", not a MK2-X. I am thinking that they use the v-slot for their linear rails and I think that only comes in the 2020 sizes. You could keep the X and Y as linear rails as v-slot. The Z could be the same configuration as DAVTR's MK2-X (you would still need to adjust the x-carriage to accept v-slot instead of rods). Interesting remix of the two. A lot of design work for you to go through.

davtr: I found a couple of issues that impacted me with your files. The z-axis-top and z-axis-bottom did not allow the sliding T-Nut (one T-nut on one and two T-nuts on the other) to pull in tight. The plastic on the back that is made to go into the slot to help with alignment does not allow the sliding T-Nut, also with its guide, to pull tightly against the 3030. I removed the part from the 3030, tightened it lightly, drew a line with a Sharpie, and used a Demel and file to remove the offending plastic. Also, the carriages on the left and right that hold the rods for the x axis... Mine were very tight, to the point we could not get one rod seated (possibly caught and edge and rolled some plastic as I was pressing the rods in), have since broken a piece because of pounding, and will need to cut the plastic off to recover the rods. You might want to consider some small 'observation' holes along the path where the rods seat. Maybe I could see in each hole, how much progress I am making. If not visually, maybe with a stick pin or sewing needle. Other than that, an awesome set of parts!!! Very well built.

The z-axis-top and z-axis-bottom did not allow the sliding T-Nut (one T-nut on one and two T-nuts on the other) to pull in tight.

Hi Mike,

I finally found out what did you mean with your comment. :-) I couldn't realise your problem since I don't use T-nuts. One friendly builder explained it to me, so I redesigned some parts to make them work with T-nuts. Thanks for pointing it out. I'm sorry I didn't understand it at first reading.

The z-axis-top and z-axis-bottom did not allow the sliding T-Nut (one T-nut on one and two T-nuts on the other) to pull in tight. The plastic on the back that is made to go into the slot to help with alignment does not allow the sliding T-Nut, also with its guide, to pull tightly against the 3030.

Hi, Mike.
Those parts heavily depend (rely) on accuracy of printer they are made on. Alignment plastic is 2mm thick and it should correspond with thickness of AL profile casing sheet thickness. I've never got into trouble with sliding T-nuts behind those plastic parts.
On the other hand, I never tried to slide T-nut behind z-axis-top part while other T-nut was already fully tightened. I usually try to set the screws in T-nuts, check alignment of the frame and only then tighten both T-nuts.
Regarding x-end parts, I haven't designed them. Again, it is the matter of accuracy and calibration of your printer. Rods should be able to slide into holes with reasonable amount of effort. However there should be no play at all. By the way, I was forced to use rubber hammer to get rods into x-end parts provided in Original i3 MK2 kit from PR. ;-) Fortunately I did not brake anything.
Anyway, you can see the progress by looking against strong light source (sun, headlamp) unless you printed from black filament. In case of bad troubles with sliding rods into X-end holes, you can use 8mm drill (with a bit of caution) to make holes accurate and clean.

Dave, x-end parts were the correct size. I needed to 1) clean out some debris from the holes, and 2) taper the end of my rods with a little belt sander. I use parallel clamps in my woodworking. I took two of them and gradually squeezed the part together. SOOOO much better than pounding and breaking that protrusion off. Also, I stuck an unsharpened pencil into the hole, marked the distance with a Sharpie, then transferred the mark to the rod. Now I knew I was seated completely.

Thanks Dave. I had intended to send you a picture, but I got put on 12 hour shifts a work until today, so I hadn't fiddled with the printer in a bit. I am remembering another part with the same problem... I will have to take a look, but it will be obvious to you that any part with the same alignment tab will have the same problem. Also, those aluminum profile covers (with and without the hole) don't fit on the 8020 brand 3030 that I purchased through Fastenal. I have a square channel that runs the length of the extrusion in each of the corners. I have to shave off the tips of the alignment plastic to make it fit. I can send measurements, if you want to create an option or just not have those tips on your piece all together. I will go see if I can PM you a photo.

would this allow us to increase the max print height of the prusa i3 mk2 ?
side ways carriages delta style could be designed for the Z axis and by doing that we can define the lenght of the z axis ourselfves ?

Of course, it is actually very easy to redefine Z axis length. Just make the frame taller, get longer Z smooth rods, longer Z lead screws, probably longer cables to extruder, and redefine max Z height in firmware.
But you will most likely be unable to print ABS that high since bed heating is very ineffective in higher Z unless the printer is in enclosed environment.

Hi,
I am in the process of building one. During the build I didn't like the spool holder so I remixed thing 1832235 to suit my needs. hope you guys will find it helpful .http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2052437

Just correspondingly enlarge particular dimension. Current frame allows use of 250x200 heatbed. If you want to use 300x200, add 50 to X axis. If you want to use 300x300, add 50 to X axis and 100 to Y axis. Don't forget to get longer smooth rods.
Also consider conversion to 24V heatbed, that large bed may drag too much current to be fed by RAMBo at 12V. Limit is 15A.

Thanks Davtr. I already have a 2nd power supply for just that reason. I was going to power the heat bed separately.

HeatBedX + 50 BY HeatBedY+100

I think my Smooth Y Rods go to the middle of each 3030 T-slot, so that is easy.

Do you have a table that you refer to on the smooth rod diameter? That is, how much deflection you allow versus the deflection of each diameter smooth rod. I just saw an 18in X 18in (457mm X 457mm) on ebay and have a need to print (over and over) a 16-1/4 wide thing If it prints well, I don't have to print in two pieces and solvent weld (ABS) or epoxy (PLA) the parts together. These parts are perimeters for my bee hive boxes, so not a lot of filament (maybe 10-15 hour prints), but I need a large area to fit the shape.

I'm planning to build this, (second DIY printer)
thinking I would add a 200x300 or 300x300 print bed....
so i'm looking for input if the 8mm rods would still be fine or would i need to go up to something thicker??

Is there any place in the USA that I can find affordable M6 T-Nuts that are compatible with 3030 extrusion with an 8mm slot? I am ordering from China, but that slow boat is going to make me miss my build date. I need about 120 (so 150 to 200).

I started to build two MK2-X, printed out your parts and noticed that your parts won't fit in my profile. Could you anyhow send me those part files, so i could modify them, or if you could change dimensions to correct ones for me. In my profiles the profile gap is 6.2mm, or atleast webpage where i ordered my profiles says it's 6.2mm. Can't get one profile piece in my hands atm to measure with my unaccurate caliber. I think it would be easier if i could access to original part files. I would appreciate it A LOT. Thank you :)

On the RebeliX RepRap site ( http://reprap4u.cz/category/navody/ ), I located a BOM (actually, a list of materials), but it was in Czech. Click the link for "RebeliX X2". I converted all the words from Czech to English the best I could (thank you Google). It is near complete but not yet verified with an actual build. I am avoiding actually publishing it until I do my build over the next few weeks. Click my Avatar (the ICON to the left of this text) and private message me your email address and I will send you what I have so far.

I'm sorry I'm afraid I won't be able to help you. As mikewrobel already said in his post, it will take quite a lot of work to redesign parts to fit another type of profile. I recommend either buy the right type of profiles or design your own versions of printed parts from scratch. It's not only about gap width.

I did seek tutorials for editing stl and was able to convert it fully to solidworks with help of FreeCAD. After it, i did cut those profile fittings to correct size and adjusted washer holes to match with my washers. Pretty easy, didn't take much time.

Per the 'Thing Details' tab, if you scroll down, you will see that it is made for 8mm, not 6.2mm. That said, you can find the SCAD files on GitHub ( https://github.com/RepRap4U/RebeliX ). If you know, or can learn OpenSCAD, you should be able to modify these files. The 6.2mm might also change your bolt sizes and t-nuts too. You should check before you buy too much hardware.

Whole project page is kinda awfull, no full info BOM etc. have to gather info from different projects and in czech, no thankyou. Ill figure problems by my own and in the end i can design totally own pieces. :) - Well humans can do mistakes, especially when manual is super bad :) ( no offence davtr, but you know it could be a bit better ;) )

Hi f4ilu2e, I did the same mistake as you did when ordering the profiles. I also ordered 30x30 with 6mm slot width. I'm going to convert the open scad files from GIThub to STEP files for the sake of changing them in Fusion 360 to fit to my profiles. As you've obviously gone through this already, did you face any issues where you had to change more than the slot dimensions? Would be great if you could give me some feedback.
many thanks in advance.

I didin't need to do any else modification to parts, than make sure it will fit in my profile. For me it was to cut down to 6.2mm width on profile bump. Plus i found out when you do it for 6.2mm width and you use M6, so you have to cut a piece around a hole, because printer is not able to print 0.2mm wallthickness. But since your profile is exact 6mm, you already will cut those walls what i got around holes. Does an M6 bolt fit in your profile? :o

Unfortunatelly i wrote yesterday within rush. I didn't remember to tell that i had to modify firmware also a bit. There is differencies in height etc. For me my brother did this (we both upgraded), but as far i understood it wasn't that difficult. I hope your upgrade goes as well as mine did. :)

EDIT: What i wrote above, prolly wont apply to you, as i changed y-carriage to alumium one and it gave a bit more printing height, not sure tough did something else change.

Are the Igus parts mandatory? I see a 'y-bearing-housing' in this Thingi and a 'y-bearing-housing-RUMP-01-08' in the Igus Thingi (1898131). I do NOT see any 'x-carriage...', 'x-end-idler...', or 'x-end-motor...' in this Thingi, only in the Igus Thingi.

No, igus parts are not mandatory. This project is designed as rework of Original i3 MK2. You are supposed to take parts from your original MK2 printer bought from Prusa Research. Only modified parts or new parts necessary to build the frame are included in this project.
If you want to build the printer from scratch, you will have to search Prusa github repository for rest of the printed parts.

Igus bearings RJMP-01-08 have 16mm diameter, which is larger than commonly used LM8UU. That's why I published modified parts for that bearings for people who would want to test them.

Thank you, Dave. I missed that in my reading. I will find the MK2 parts and sort that out. I am very impressed with the quality of your parts and how you lay them out so they work with gravity. I do want to try the Igus bearings, but want to get the basic printer together first so that I can see what happens with the Igus. I have seen a couple of builds online where users abandon the Igus bearings. I am not sure if some people get a bad batch or they just don't implement them right (possibly making decisions about lubricants that are faulty). As an engineer, I actually want to understand the difference and then choose what is appropriate for me.

Igus bearings work well if they're properly mounted. The problem of MK2 is that bed bearings and X-carriage bearings are mounted using zip ties. If you make them too tight, the bearings get too squeezed on smooth rods and stop moving freely.
The problem with bed bearings is solved by Y-bearing-holder (it prevents squeezing of bearings). X-carriage bearings should be tighten little by little until there is no play on smooth rods, but not more. Then they work well. I'm quite satisfied with them. No lubrication needed. I can see no wear after 2 months of printing.

Can someone please confirm the length of Y and Z axis smooth rods? Y rods look like 360mm to me, but what about Z - I remember seeing a comment somewhere that you can't reuse the stock Prusa ones and they're 10mm short. Just want a second opinion from someone who has build this mod before I go ahead and cut my smooth rods. Thanks!

hi Johltzar. i have edited the stls so they work with 20x20 profiles. But they are still not sooooo pretty. have to make some changes but after that i will post my mix prusa here as Remix. Have a great weekend :)

I don't know, you will have to find out yourself. This project is designed to use as much of original MK2 as possible. Take whole X and Z axis assembly of MK2 as-is and mount it into new frame using parts mentioned here. It will fit. If you want to use other parts, of course you can and it will most likely work well, but you will have to investigate.

Hi, I´m working on a bigger version (300*300 heatbed), so the frame is bigger than yours (X and Y) Z is the same size. My actual printer is a P3Steel with threaded rod on Z axis and this one will have lead screw as yours. My question is if was so hard to calibrate Z axis using lead screw?
BTW great job with the printer and pieces. Thanks.

There is nothing about Z axis calibration since the pitch of lead screw is well known as well as steps/rev parameter of stepper motor. You simply calculate steps/mm for Marlin and you're done.
For MK2 with Tr8x8 lead screw and 3200 steps/rev Nema17 motor it is 400 steps/mm for Z axis. Exactly, no further calibration.

Hi I'm working on a similar design with some 45 45 profile off cuts i got from work. Is the distance between the Y idler and Y motor important for the calibration as the lengths i have are a little longer? cheers

I just finish building this. I'm having problems with the calibration. The Z sits about 20mm higher than before. Bed is now much lower (by design of the 3030 material). How do I compensate for it? Z is too high for it to pick up the calibration points.

When calibration routine asks for moving x-carriage all way up, you should move it a bit lower. On MK2, x-carriage is moved all way up to make it aligned horizontally with Z frame. Knowing this, you should move x-carriage up approximately to the height where upper edge of x-end printed parts meets bottom edge of Z frame upper part. Then make X steel rods aligned (parallel) with Z frame (rotate Z lead screws by hand). Then you are done with alignment and calibration routine can continue.

I was thinking about creating some printed alignment helpers to make calibration easier, but in the end I didn't it since they were not needed any more, I did calibration only once and the printer works great since then.

I really would like the calibration helpers, or even better a z top that has them build in. I want my remodel to exactly have the same funtionality as the original. If you can't provide that, do you at least have the exact amount of mm that the bed is lower than in the original? I would really appreciate that!

I understand, but I'm afraid I can't help you at the moment. I didn't write down original relative positions. I can provide an image of position of x-carriage relative to top Z frame, which is needed for successful calibration (after the printer finishes current job).

Well, the printer is doing another job at the moment. :-D It will be busy for next 10 hours. But you should be able to determine that yourself. Just move the extruder so the nozzle is 208mm above the bed and measure desired lengths.

I can't provide dimensions measured on original MK2 since I no longer have any MK2 in original frame. Even if I get required numbers now, they will be measured on reworked frame, so they won't be exactly the same as on original frame. I don't care about exact original dimensions, the printer works well and doesn't complain about anything.

BTW why don't you just measure it yourself on your own MK2 frame? You'll get the exact numbers you want.

Edit: on my reworked MK2-X it is 290mm, but I'm pretty sure this information is worthless for you.

You don't get it. I don't need measurements of the original, cause obviously i do have one. It seems like you don't understand me. It does not matter anymore, i will do it myself and then publish the needed parts. Thank you for your time. :)

I got some aluminium extrusions cut yesterday and already started assembling the frame! So far so good - just one clarification. The print instructions don't mention the number of corner/bottom corner couplers. You'll need to print rebelix-corner-coupler twice (a single model has two pieces), and for the other ones, the manual says 10, but I think they should only be six.

Yes, you need rebelix-corner-coupler-bottom twice (bottom couplers contain pads for optional rubber dampeners) and rebelix-corner-coupler 6 times - 4 for top side of XY frame and 2 for back side of Z frame.
Whole set of couplers should fit to one 200x200mm print bed area to be printed at once.

Now I understand, you are missing z-axis-top and z-axis-bottom parts for opposite side.
You can get parts for both sides yourself very easily. Open your favourite slicer, load z-axis part, load the same part again (you will get two identical parts in slicer) and apply "mirror along X axis" to one of them. Arrange and print both at one time.

I'm sorry I got no detailed BOM. Some information can be found in original RebeliX assembly guide linked from my conversion instructions. If you are asking for some particular lenghts, please be more specific so I can try to put some more detailed answers.

Would like to see post pictures as well. I think your design should allow a better print quality as it looks stable and sturdy. My original MK2 is shaking, especially the frame.
Your design attempt must result in reducing the influence of vibrations. Do not you see any improvements, davtr?

But actually, as far as I can judge, the print quality is basically the same. There are no significant differences. Completely different is how easily can anyone get the frame to perfect shape. I was fighting with geometry of original frame for a long time. But not a single issue with geometry since rework. I only print and load new spools of filament.

Thanks for the reply. I'd expect that if you increase the rigidity of the frame you could increase print speeds, right? At the point you are at you could probably increase print speeds a fair amount, but with a bit more effort you could probably make the print speeds vastly higher. This is the core reason I am interested in this project, I'd love to double or greater the printing speed of a prusa i3 mk2 and I assume the bigger piece of the puzzle is frame rigidity. I also imagine active cooling for the steppers, maybe a larger blower.

There is a limitation of print speeds based on hotend performance. There is discussion thread about it at prusa3d forums, unfortunately I couldn'f find it at the moment. The problem is that E3D V6 is capable of melting specified given volume of filament per second. This determines maximum print speed regardless of frame rigidity.
If you want to increase print speeds way above this limit, you will have to use E3D Volcano hotend.

Well I am sorry to say but you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.

A more rigid frame will allow you to a) print at faster speeds which was mentioned b) increase jerk c) increase acceleration. This will all help reduce print time.

Regarding the flow rate of the nozzle, maybe you should have taken some notes from that thread and studied them because you have even less of an idea what you are talking about. The v6 maxes out around 10-13mm^3/s, depending on quite a few factors such as the filament type.

To give an example, lets say you are printing at a popular layer height of 0.2mm, and extruding a line width of 0.48mm. At 40 mm/s speed, you will be extruding only 3.84mm^3/s, well below the limit of the hotend. Above 40mm/s with the stock frame, for outer perimeters and top and bottom layers, the quality diminishes quickly. With a more rigid frame, say you wanted to double the speed and use 80mm/s, you would still be reasonably below the limit at 7.68mm^3/s.

Obviously you will increase the volumetric flow rate pretty quickly with thicker layers, but with the right filament you could still print at 80mm/s at 0.3mm layer height, but that is getting a little close to the limit.

It just bothers me to see someone act like they know what they are talking about, while providing the most vague useless and incorrect answer possible. I mean you were on the right track, but you ended up giving poor advice to waterling even though his question was backed up with his own logical opinions.

I am also surprised that someone capable of designing this, which takes quite a bit of skill, and then see them be so incredibly clueless that they can't even conclude that a more rigid frame = increase in speeds without affecting quality. It's a very simple and obvious connection.

Oh actually, considering how you constrained the top end of the lead screw, I guess you're really not so bright after all.

I have considered using the volcano, it's only 8.5mm longer. I imagine that perhaps it is viable to lengthen the Z height a fair bit, maybe a lot. I've also considered a pre-heat chamber or stage for a filament to get the filament a around 10c below it's glass transition temperature.

Ultimately, I don't really know if just making a crazy rigid frame would allow for insane print speeds, I don't know what else goes into it.

So do you think you can print faster utilizing a much more rigid frame assuming any thermal limitations are overcome?

You will still have to play a bit with motors power and acceleration settings, to avoid problems with skipped steps. It will most likely fail in current silent mode setup and maybe even in highpower setup as well. Heatbed is quite heavy so inertia forces will be rather high.

I've never used silent mode, doubt I ever would. I suspect active cooling and some heatsinks could increase the power capabilities of this setup a great deal.

I have strongly considered the moving back and forth heatbed motion, I almost didn't buy a prusa i3 mk2 because of it. Eventually I am probably going to buy or put together 3D printers either in the delta or coreXY styles.

I will attempt to build something similar, but have a few questions. According to the RebeliX profile sizes, the profiles used for the height would also be 32cm long. According to my calculations, this would but the total size at 360W, 380D and 380H, but your description says the height is 390cm, why is that?

About oscillations - your sketch looks interesting, but you will definitely come into big trouble mounting PSU and Rambo. There is very little space over there. Also, that perpendicular frame does not eliminate oscillations well. Diagonal braces would work much better. But there is even less space for them.
By my experience oscillations of Z frame are of no importance, they are way smaller than high frequency vibrations coming from motors and belts.

Yeah, it will share it for sure once I'm done. I just have another question for you. Did you assemble the bottom of the frame using only T-nuts and the plastic parts to hold it in place, or did you attach triangular brackets or something more?

I've almost decided to skip the old sketch and build the bottom using 30x60mm profiles. This would still give me room to fit all the electronics and PSU. It would also be less bulkier, requiring less profiles and less angles etc for assemble, so should be more stable.

Bottom itself is sturdy enough, but it is still only rectangular frame with no braces, so if someone used too much force, it would twist or change shape. However it is sturdy enough for 3d printing needs.

Hi,
I stumped upon your project by coincidence but in process of doing the same thing as you (with the only difference of building a dual extruder). It made my day to see I´m not the only one going in this direction.
NIce job!

I can post it here after I´m done building the mechanical part. But I´m mostly just remodeling parts done by Martin Neruda for Rebelix to fit my needs and basicaly the only two major differences are in attaching Z-axis to Y and the extruder (as it will be the dual one).

This seems to make it a lot easier to access all the parts of the printer for adjustments and modifications - I just finished an MK2 upgrade which seems very fiddly compared to your design.

Can you give some impressions on how your machine performs in daily use? What sets it apart from the original MK2 the most?
Since the print quality of the MK2 is already very good I suppose your design mainly aims at ease of use and modifiability?

I did a quick check of Prusa's official forums and didn't find your project there. Maybe this would be a good place to develop your machine further?

Finally: Was it worth it? for someone with an already well working MK2, would you recommend changing to your design? How long do you estimate will building it take?

Regarding your questions: the output quality of redesigned printer is most likely the same as of original design. I was very satisfied with MK2, like you are. The only problem was that I was unable to adjust the frame to perfect shape. I was constantly fighting with some imperfections of geometry, and with unacceptable noice from heatbed linear bearings. I hated that.

Was it worth it? Well, I don't know exactly since I had all needed components already home as remains from previous printer, which was outdated by MK2. I had to only design some adjustments to printed parts. The conversion itself was very easy and quick, it took about 3 hours. Now, when I know what to do and how, it would take maybe 2 hours or less.

The printer in new frame is more silent, precisely set up (even self calibration says it's perfectly perpendicular), heatbed carriage goes very smoothly and has absolutely no play in any axis. Adjustments are easy and adjusting one parameter don't break other one. Adjusting anything on original frame was painful like hell.

Would I go into this conversion again? Definitely yes. I like to improve things. And I'm going to further improve this one. TODO list still isn't empty and maybe there will be some other improvements coming in my mind. :-)

Oops, it looks like their website changes download links from time to time. :-/
Please go to http://reprap4u.cz/navod-na-stavbu-3d-tiskarny-rebelix/ and at the bottom of page there is download link labeled "Download Návod na sestavení 3D tiskárny RebeliX". This is it.
Anyway thanks for pointing out, I will update my conversion guide.

The problem with our local ALUPA profiles is that they are available just locally :/ so its almost impossible to get these elsewhere :( i based my printer on these profiles too, quite a lot ppl not building it due to this fact. otherwise, its nice. good value, easily cut to desired length...

I can confirm this. We use these profiles on some projects in UK.
These profiles are better than ALUPA because you can cut thread in central hole and screw it together with other profiles. Then the frame is even stronger and you don't need plastic brackets.

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