An Upbeat Vibe At The Gelston Tavern

BARGAIN BITES

May 15, 2008|By MARYELLEN FILLO; COURANT STAFF WRITER

Gelston House Tavern

8 Main St.

East Haddam

860-873-1411

www.gelstonhouse.com

Unlike other aspects of my life, I'm easy and I'm cheap when it comes to dining out. So I love it that many of the fancier, often translated as more expensive, restaurants are tuned into the economy and lifestyle and, as such, are reinventing their bar areas by turning them into more casual tavern-like dining venues with less expensive menus.

That was the case at the Gelston House Tavern, inside the landmark restaurant of the same name beside the historic Goodspeed Opera House on the banks of the Connecticut River in East Haddam.

The particulars: Open Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 to whenever, depending on the tavern activity, with food being served until 9:30 or 10, again, depending on the crowd. Handicapped accessible, free parking. Major credit cards are accepted.

The look: It's a treasure of a building, and the tavern reflects that, with rich woodwork cabinetry, huge windows and standard tavern ambience. When the bar gets crowded, especially before and after the shows at the Goodspeed, the action spills onto the front porch, where you can catch a view of the water.

The vibe: It's a mix of theatergoers and locals (who consider the Gelston House the local hangout.) On two nights we were there, an adjacent dining room became part of the scene when a band arrived, and the dancing began. Be prepared to talk to people you have never met before.

The eats: Fried calamari, smoked salmon, crab cakes and terrine mousquetaire were the openers on the tavern menu, with a mixed green or Caesar salad with shrimp or chicken also available for those who are concerned about that summer swim suit fitting in a few weeks. Entrees ranged from the basics, like a hamburger with fries or a grilled chicken sandwich, to something a bit more elite, including a bistro steak with bourbon sauce, mushroom ravioli, classic shepherds pie and chicken cordon bleu.

The bill: Appetizers range from a $5 bowl of the soup of the day to crab cakes, crusted shrimp, mussels, and escargot, all for less than $11. Salads were $5.95 and $6.95 without meat or fish while entrees ranged from $10 to $21.95. Our favorites included mushroom ravioli with tomato cream sauce for $14.95 and a chicken cordon bleu for $17.95.

The verdict: Depending on your appetite and the whim of your taste buds, portions can be easily shared. In our case, we each chose an entree and then split dessert. Without drinks, the total for three came to slightly less than $40. We left sated by the food and the upbeat tone of the place. And for those considering a trip there, warm weather also will mark the opening of the outdoor beer garden, which has its own "bargain" menu, with a summer-perfect view of the river.