2010

Without it, James Bond would never have had a Martini and a Manhattanwould be simply whiskey and bitters. Essentially white wine fortifiedwith a neutral grape brandy spirit and infused with herbs and spices,vermouth comes in two main styles: red, which is sweet, and white,which is dry.

Dolin Rouge, $14 for 750 mlA top choice of serious bartenders, this red vermouth from France was recently made available in the United States.

HOW TO SERVE:

Once an essential ingredient in over half the cocktails known prior to World War I, the old-school aperitif and bartending staple is now back and better than ever. Here are a few delicious ways to enjoy vermouth.

On the Rocks Pour a few healthy glugs of white or red vermouth over ice in a rocks glass and garnish with a lemon or orange twist. Sip before dinner.

The Next Wave Vermouth takes the lead in the Cherry Lane, a cocktail created by bartender Brian Bartels of Joseph Leonard restaurant in New York's West Village: Combine 11/2 ounces sweet vermouth, 1/2 ounce dry vermouth, and 1 tablespoon juice from brandied cherries* in a shaker with ice. Shake well. Strain into a Martini glass; add 2 brandied cherries.* Top off the cocktail with 1 ounce of sparkling rosé wine and finish with a lemon twist.

*Brandied cherries, such as Les Parisiennes, are available at specialty foods stores and from markys.com