The transducer itself is like a speaker for higher frequencies.you can measure its internal resistance and capitance using multimeter and compare it to the numbers that the datasheet shows.For resistance any number below 200kohm is acceptable

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Yes you can. Basically the red wire goes to the fuse box connection. The fuse box should then be wired into the positive battery terminal. The black wire is the negative ground wire and needs to go directly back to your negative battery terminal or to a common negative buss bar.

I'm having the exact same problem. I spoke with the service manager at Faria (Ted) and he was thinking that as long as the gauge is showing a reading, it should default to reading the depth. I'll probably send the guage in to FARIA - they'll repair it for $55. You bring up a good point - maybe the transducer is bad? I put a call in to the Tedmeister to see what he thinks. I'll post if he sheds any light.

You can find out which one is serving the device you wish to repair by waving a small spade or wide metal object about a foot from each of the existing transducers and have someone else monitoring the insruments on the concole.

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Sounds like you do not have your transducer connected.
You will know it is working if you have a bottom sounding. If you have a bottom sounding (depth reading) and it is correct then you may have to fine tune the finder to see the fish.
I have the same finder on my boat. http://njsaltfish.com/index.php/captainsfocus?sid=61

Hey Anon
The transducer installation is more important than anything.. next to correct wiring! You must make sure the mounting is good,,, if its outside the hull, make sure its sitting 1/16th below the hull with no obstructions.. if its inside the hull, the medium you used to fix the puck to the hull must be porosity free and the puck sitting as level with the WATER as possible..
Now, take the manual to the lake with you and DO NOTHING but read the manual and apply what you read to the unit,,, read -repeat - read-repeat.. forget about fishing... now read-repeat and learn... IF nothing seems to be reading correctly.. its probably the transducer installation.. YOU DID use a/the transducer specifically for this unit!!

Check to make sure the transducer is hooked up correctly, and check the actual transducer for signs of damage. Transducers are fragile, and a good whack can break the crystal inside. For more troubleshooting, here is a helpful link with the Owners Manual for your Humminbird.
http://store.humminbird.com/media/document/PiranhaMAX_150-160-170-180-190c.pdf

Im not familiar with your particular unit but you should be using a low frequency transducer for water over 500'; something like a 50 kHz transducer or a dual frequency transducer like a 50/200kHz for detail with the high freq. but increased depth range on the lower frequency. As far as setting it to 250 ft, you should be able to use the range feature and adjust the maximum to 250'. typically the factory default is automatic so it will caonstantly adjust the range based on the maximum current depth.

Ok in WIDE beam mode the cone extends out 45 degrees from the transducer. This covers a fair area, but is best used only in shallow waters as the beam may not have enough power to penetrate deeper waters effectively. 30ft should be fine for WIDE mode however. Using a bit of trigonometry, the beam would extend to a diameter of 60 feet from the center point of the transducer on the sea/river floor.

The beam is a direct beam... It is not a rotational beam from the transducer... i.e. it does not rotate like a radar beam but shoots downward in the cone arc constantly. Imagine a torch being turned on and off very rapidly... The light shoots straight out from the torch in its own cone shape. This is essentially what the transducer does when it shoots out a signal every millisecond or so.

The image you see on the screen is the result of the hole cone of signals, however, the strongest sonar returns occur near the center of the beam. Weaker returns are shown which are located towards the outer edges of the sonar cone where the signal power is less. So if a fish passes right on the edge of the beam, it will only show up as maybe 1 pixel on the sounder screen as it is a weak return on the edge of the sonar cone, whereas if that fish passes under the center of the beam, it will show a larger, more continuous or arched shaped return as the fish moves from the outside of the beam, through the center of the beam, and out to the other edge of the beam under the boat.

Regarding the flasher... I would advise not to use this. It does work by showing a continuous top and bottom reading which displays as constant flashes around the circle readout. Anything it picks up in the beam will show as flashes in between the top and bottom readings. Using the display is far better and with practice allows you to better identify fish and bottom structure readings. Flashers were earlier forms of sonar readouts. Some older folk still like them but I believe the normal display is better for finding and identifying fish and can show structure shape as well (the flasher mode really cannot).

I don't think your old fish finder is the LMS-332C GPS Receiver listed above in the description. You don't need the speed wheel for the fish finder to function just the transducer and transducer mount. You should mount that on the back of the boat towards the center but not too close to the motor and not too close to the side of the board. Don't let it hand below the level of the boat. That should keep it from getting hit by the trailer or dragging on the bottom. Try to make it as level as possible. The green and white wires may be for the speed wheel but i'd need a model number for clarification. Hope this helps.