Thakoon / Fall 2014 RTW

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Outdoorsy might not be the first word that comes to mind when you flip through Thakoon’s fall collection, but look closer and you’ll see that the hallmarks of all-terrain-wear are all there: nylon puffers (embroidered with a bright floral), fleecy bouclés, a Boy Scout–type stripe in camp-ready colors. There’s even a brushed-flannel plaid coat that not-so-vaguely resembles a sleeping bag. “It’s a lot of layering,” designer Thakoon Panichgulsaid backstage before the show. “Things are a bit more wrap-y, shapes are scarf-y.” In other words, they’ll keep you warm. Maybe not extreme-weather warm—“I’d need the experts at Patagonia to do that,” he said—but pretty nice and cozy.

Getting everyone’s attention—for being distracting or desirable? Maybe both?—were the asymmetrical scarfs shown with the lighter silk dresses, and the knit pullover shrugs that one editor called “ponchitos” on Instagram after the show. Though perhaps a tad restrictive, the ponchitos also do wonders to visually minimize waistlines and hips, and for that reason alone we can see them selling. “They’re like shoulder covers,” Panichgul called them. Again, nice and cozy.

The prints must be mentioned because they were strong in a collection-defining kind of way. Extroverted (on outerwear and suit separates) and introverted (on jacket linings and dress inserts), the feminine florals and more masculine foulards were ultimately what kept the collection from looking too literally Into the Wild. Anti-earthy color ways were heavy on the hot pink and electric blue and literally pop in the pictures. It felt a little menswear-y in moments—“I think tailoring feels really exciting right now,” Panichgul said—with one palest felted wool funnel coat and matching trouser looking very louche. “I wanted to mix the all-terrain aspect with pieces that are a bit more refined,” he said, pointing specifically to the collection’s coats—one done in gray cashmere and another in full fur. “Goat,” Panichgul pointed out. “Because it’s a bit more rustic.” So, though she hasn’t gone into the wild, she’s not yet out of the woods.