This year, I did this slabat my second try, then I flashed the second one, but the third one was too hard for me (only Dmitri did it). In the last problem, I know that no mistake is allowed to go in final. After a good read and a long time of concentration, I flash it.

In final, as usualy, everything is possible, but also still to do...After the présentation and read of the problems, this is my style of climbing, but really basic and easy to read...It will be a high level final because I have 5 strong guys against me...

The third problem has only one hard mouv, where it is good to be tall to get the bonus hold. Jan flash it, and Dmitri didi it at his last try. Me, I was not lucid enough to use my reach and go slowly to the bonus hold...

-Although I won a bet on the win of Jan and I am very happy for him, I still do not understand how can we organize a World Cup with two blocks not covered ... So, one block of each group was canceled, and the has changed for some people ...

-For the route setters, it is unfortunate to set final final where all the climbers flash it.

-And finally, for the public, the place is beautiful, but it's a pity that everyone can't attend the final ...

mardi 21 mai 2013

A peine le temps de rentrer à la maison et aller se faire plaisir sur le grès de Fontainebleau, et il est déjà l'heure de repartir pour l'étape slovène de la saison.Just some days at home to enjoy the sandstone of the forest, and it's already time to leave for the slovenian stage of the season.
Expliquer mes sensations sur cette étape reste toujours difficile pour moi, même après plus d'une semaine de réflexion.Explain my feeling on this comp is still hard for me, even after one week of thinking.

Je me retrouve donc en tête des qualifications, mais rien d’inquiétant car c'est la troisième fois en quatre étapes.So, I finish first of the qualifications ,but nothing to worry about because this is the third time in four comps.
En demi finale, je grimpe en dernière position, et j'ai donc bien pris le temps de m'échauffer.In semi final, I start in last position, and so I had a really good warm up.

Puis dans le bloc 4, où se joue la qualification en finale, je vois des mouvements qui ont l'air de me convenir, mais je mets beaucoup trop d'essai à me sortir du toit/dièdre de départ en ne trouvant pas la bonne méthode. Au dernier essais, je cale une contre pointe et passe sans forcer, je sors facilement le bloc, mais hors temps, et surtout en beaucoup trop d'essais pour espérer la finale...Then, in the last problem, where evryone want to take his tiket for the final, I see that the mouvs look to be my style. But unfortunatly, It took me lot of run to find the good way in the first two mouvs... and after that I top this block quite easily, but of time, and for sure in too much tries to be in final...

Heureusement, il y a déjà une autre étape de la coupe du monde 4 jours après, donc la forme sera toujours la pour ne pas refaire les mêmes erreurs...Luckily, there is already another world cup in 4 days, so the good shape will still be with me, and hope to not do the same mistakes...

jeudi 9 mai 2013

Malgré toutes les compétitions auxquelles je participe durant ce printemps, j'ai quand même le temps de profiter de la forêt pendant quelques journées...Even with all these comp at this season, I also had the chance to climb in the forest for few days...

Jerem in Duel

Fin Mars, frustré de ne toujours pas comprendre comment s'en sortir dans la mythique dalle de "Duel", Jerem m'emmène découvrir un bloc beaucoup plus physique ou je pourrai mieux m'exprimer...End of March, frustrated to be unable to understand the good way in the awesome slab of "Duel", Jerem show me a so much powerfull boulder, where I'll be able to mush myself...

After some days of rest after the third stage of the world cup in Kitzbühel (well known for it's ski down hill), I am finally able to write my story.

Après un vol jusqu'à Munich et deux petites heures de voiture, nous sommes arrivés à l’hôtel pour profiter d'une (plus ou moins) bonne nuit de sommeil et aussi de l'air de la montagne...After a flight to Munchen and two hours of car, we arrive to the hotel. Just in time to have a good recovery night with the air of the montains...

Q2

Puis, pour la première fois de l'année, nos qualifications étaient en deux groupes, et donc je passais en troisième position. C'est donc assez tôt que je me suis rendu en isolement pour commencer mon échauffement.Then, for the first time of the year, our qualification round was divided in two groups, and so I started 3rd. That's why I went to the iso zone quite early to have a good warm up.

The two circuits were quite "easy", and nobody can do one mistake... And in this case, Kilian Fischhuber (winner in Millau) take a really bad 11th place of his group. The comp is also over for the french Jeremy Bonder and Seb Valran. Looking forward to for the semi final for me, and also Tito, Helène and Melissa.

Q5

Pour les demi finales, la situation est différente, je passe en dernière position, et j'ai donc le temps de bien m'échauffer et faire monter l'envie tout doucement. Après presque trois heures d'attente, je suis donc très motivé à l'attaque de mon circuit.Fir the semi final, it was different for me, I start in last position, and so I have lot of time to have a good warm up. After three hour of stretching and warm up, I was fully in my comp and ready to send some hard problems.

In final, I always have the same problem, I am totally tired physically and mentally, and the most difficult for me is to stay motivated and not give up nervously ...And after the reading, I'm not confident, because the first boulder has only triangles volumes, and this is one of my biggest weakness ... Other boulders look really hard, but in my style.

As expected, in the first problem, I didn't even get the bonus hold, but luckily, the route setters have tightened the problem just before the final, so nobodyv top it...The second problem is a slab full of sensations, with volumes very (too) inclined for the feet and micro handholds ... I think in this kind of problem, you don't need to be strong, but must take maximum of risk while being very relaxed on the feet to not slip off... I do this problem on my second try, and while going back to the iso, I saw the chief route setter really hapopy that someone topped it. It was not wrong because anyone else after me got more than the bonus hold...

In the third problem, I can't find the right beta at the begining of the boulder, and never got the bonus. After my last try on it, I was wondering it was impossible to climb this problem, but few minutes after that, Jakob Schubert come back really happy in iso, it was possible...

Je grimpe très bien dans ce bloc, mais je tombe trois fois au dernier mouvement. J'étais vraiment à bout de force, et pour ce mouvement il aurait fallu que je sois vraiment frais. Il ne me reste donc plus qu'à regarder la prestation des autres pour savoir quel sera mon classement...Last problem, where everyone will climb for the win, is an overhang with a first double dino following by some big and really powerfull mouvments on sloppers.I climb well in this problem, but I fall 3 times at the very last mouv. To do this movement, I should have been fresh, and that was not it. It only remains for me to watch the performance of others to know what will be my ranking ...

Dmitri did it in 3 attempts, ranking third, one try me.Jakob did it, but in the same time, my coach told me that there is a claim against him because he didn't start properly in boulder 3. According to the rules, he got 2 minutes to redo this problem (which seemed impossible to me). So I can still be first if he fall. I come back front of the wall, start in good position, and climb it like if it was a 7A... Really impressing!!