Food & Dining

Argyll Whisky Beer a winner in Denver's Uptown neighborhood

Lamb burger with fries from the new gastropub Argyll Whisky Beer, which is in the former Las Margaritas space. (Cyrus McCrimmon, The Denver Post)

With the opening of Argyll Whisky Beer in early June, Mile High diners gained another excellent reason to head to Denver's Uptown neighborhood, which was already home to a bustling restaurant scene.

Located in the former Las Margaritas space, Argyll is a revival and reinvention of the room restaurateur Robert Thompson ran in Cherry Creek from 2008 to 2011.

While much of the original's British gastropub vibe remains, this new version is more ambitious in every way, from the food (courtesy of culinary director John Broening) to the cocktail program (created by Ryan Conklin).

The airy dining area at the new gastropub Argyll Whisky Beer. (Photos by Cyrus McCrimmon, The Denver Post)

The room is unrecognizable from its Las Margaritas days. Executed by OZ Architecture with creative input from Thompson, the space is at once retro- funky and contemporary.

It uses distressed brick, a pressed-tin ceiling and flooring that mixes oak and old-school hexagonal tile dating to the building's 1932 construction. Plush banquettes line the walls.

And there's an obligatory boar's head on the wall.

But there are nifty modern touches, too, such as a stretch wallpapered with vintage leather belts and a wall behind the host stand studded with mounted liquor flasks.

Still, food and drink is where Argyll really shines.

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Broening's reputation precedes him, thanks to his work at Olivea and Spuntino, the latter of which he operates with his pastry-chef wife, Yasmin Lozada-Hissom. (Full disclosure: Broening pens the weekly "Short Order" recipe column in The Post's Food section.)

Sliced squash salad with almonds, mint, anchovy and parmesan.

Yes, you get some old-school British pub fare such as bangers and mash, potted shrimp, Scotch egg and shepherd's pie, albeit elevated far beyond what you traditionally chowed down on in Olde England.

Potato chips, or "crisps" in Brit-speak, were dusted in cheddar powder, paprika and a touch of cayenne. "It wakes them up a little bit," a bartender explained. Paired with a malt vinegar reduction for dipping, they were addictive.

Gazpacho was a coarse grind of ripe tomatoes topped with a dollop of chilled and minted mashed spring peas. The big bowl was quite satisfying, at least after the waiter was tracked down for the absent spoon. (He also seemed to still be on a bit of a learning curve with the menu.)

Savory curried chicken was sided with fluffy, caraway-studded rice and two chutneys, one made of cilantro, the other mango. It tipped a derby to chicken masala, another Indian dish found in British pubs.

An heirloom tomato salad was lovely, although the cherry tomatoes were riper than the big yellow chunk that was showcased. A housemade sunflower cracker was excellent.

Sandwiches, too, were excellent, including a luxurious one with rosemary ham, creamy Irish butter, fruit mustard, pickles and a side of golden shoestring fries.

The fish-and-chips came with bigger slab-cut fries, which flanked a chunk of crispy cod that was snow white and ultra-moist.

Two showstoppers: a juicy lamb burger on a brioche roll, topped with crisp lettuce, tzatziki and a sweet-tart tomato jam. The kitchen crew, working in a large gleaming space, is smart enough to toast the roll so it doesn't fall apart like a 1980s-era Yugo. Heady in its savoriness, the sandwich was practically inhalable.

Finally, a squash salad that is one of Broening's pet creations. Thin slices of yellow squash and zucchini turned out on a deli meat slicer sat in a tangled pile. They were dotted with chopped almonds, mint, crispy anchovy nuggets and shaved Parmesan.

Sauced with a lemony pumpkinseed vinaigrette flecked with red chile flakes, this burst-of-summer dish will vie for a spot on my year-end list of the best dishes of 2014.

The bar is handsome, a big square number, with 20 beers on tap. The smart wine list boasts variety and value; cocktails show creativity and attention to detail. Try the Used Boat Salesman, with Plantation 3 Stars white rum, cucumber, lemon and a jolt of soda water. The whisky roster is massive.

Beyond the menu, there were other knowing touches: cloth napkins, good cutlery and iced- tea refills poured from squat, repurposed whisky bottles, labels removed. It's clever, and it looks good.

Thompson and Broening have a winner. Uptown just got more uptown.

William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp

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