Also I don't recommend liquid cooling unless your going full hobbyist lol. Ryzen is doing good but works great with even the evo 212. And Intel still can't be bothered to put any thermal paste on their CPU between the cover and the chip itself, so even liquid cooling it its 90C. You have to delid them to get any reasonable temperatures.http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/int ... 92-11.html

It's going to require liquid cooling. I pretty much bought the same type of processor my brother did, and case, but not exact same processor, still a Haswell-E i7. He got the same liquid cooler for his. He's got way more knowledge in PCs than I do, with his MCSE and MSCA and C++ and SQL and A+ and all that crap he knows. I get it from the family and been around computers since I was like 4.

Well, I also asked my sister if she wants the computer for her family, though where she lives she won't have any internet. And, there's...really not many games you can play these days unless you have internet access. I've set up a list though she "could" play pretty much though, because everything I download, I keep a storage file of the setup information. (Which is WHY I would make the computer a server to download from to begin with, because it has so many program and game setups on it).

I could give her games like Starcraft 1, Warcraft 3, Snood, a couple weeks ago I was robbed of Windows 10 "store" so I needed my games back, I found a setup file with all the Original windows 7 GAMES that came with windows, which awesome..like Freecell / Solitaire / Minesweeper / Spider Solitaire / Hearts / Chess / Mahjong, Duke Nukem 3D, Digger, DX-Ball 1 & 2, Dynomite, Pinball (from like windows XP), Monster truck Madness 2, Quake 2, Wolfenstein 3D...

Those are games without internet, but, also have a ton of setups for games that require internet, and when it comes to software setups, well, got stuff like drivers, AIM, winzip, 7zip, winrar, zonealarm, skype, origin, teamspeak/ventrilo, probably "COULD" put an ISO of windows xp on there cause I have a CD key of it, visual basic, all sorts of crap, service packs, .net framework..anything I've required over the years, I'll share it as a server for people that need it.

Then for midi files I still got the MIDI files that were in duke 3D, and for MP3s lol I got like 5,000+ of those.....buuuut I dunno I think this is pushing it if I were to do this, I don't want to get arrested for doing this..that's why I'd rather give my sister the computer if she were to accept. The thing is, I've asked pretty much everyone I know, nobody wants the computer.

Haha, my regular computer crashed a couple days ago when I put it in safe mode and decided to run "diagnostic memory tests" or whatever they're called..I've never run those on this computer the entire time I've had it, and I built it in 2011. It got stuck in endless loops, the entire time we went out to lunch, we came home from errands too..going to stores, it was like 3 hours, it was running endless loops of memtests. So, I flipped the switch in the back to see if that would fix it, but to no avail. It just booted right back up instantly into the memory tests..

SOOO, I planned on building the NEW rig overnight when that happened, so I could set the "corrupt" drive as an alternate drive so I could format it completely, put it back in my regular pc, and install windows fresh again, so the computer would be as good as new. BUT, I never got the new rig to work.

The new motherboard just didn't POST. I tried everything. Some power connectors, certain power connectors, RAM, NO RAM, CPU, NO cpu, RAM CPU, RAM NO CPU, CPU NO RAMP, etc etc etc etc, no video card, CPU VIDEO CARD, evvvvvverything....it just WOULD NOT SHOW a display on the monitor. I used 2 different monitors, 3 different graphics cards. The motherboard just slowly flashed the PCI-E lights on and off and on and off when I turned the PSU power on. But, when I booted it up...it got hung up at an orange light near the ATX 24-PIN connector called "BOOT_LED"...

SO, I said, to hell with it, and we took it to a computer shop, I said "I've known computers for 25-30 years, but if you guys can get this thing to actually POST, I would give you guys some credit. Good Luck. My guess is it's probably some stupid jumper on the board that's preventing it from actually starting up or posting, but they don't specify this crap in the user manuals."

Thennnn...as for my regular computer, I looked on my iPhone and found an answer for how to fix my memory test loops; Gotta boot from the original windows 7 CD, get to the options menu for the installation, choose repair, then command prompt, and type a command about the bootsequence to change the way it boots and stop the memory tests.

SO, Today we picked up my motherboard from the computer shop. They called and said they got it POST'ing. I asked what the problem was, they said one of the USB connections (like for extra USB connections you plug into the front of the case), had a couple bent pins that were touching each other, creating a short; also, down near the power switch / reset switch / power LED / alllll those pins, there were apparently a couple more pins they said were bent and touching each other, creating another short..which never let the board POST. I dunno, if they say so, but I never would have seen it or figured it out. That's why I gave it to them, for some dumb problem like that to figure out while I relaxed about it over the weekend.

The pins were flimsy and the board was just cosmetic, because you plug it in and it had a cool flashy effect where the PCI-E slots lit up and flashed different colors, that was about it. The board didn't recognize all of the ram, only 8 gb of the 32 gb. So, not all of the ram slots worked, it was a cheap POS.

SO, after it broke I just tossed it back in the box and ordered the one my brother got, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product. ... 6813132505 but it was like $500-550 when I bought it. That mofo gets the job done, a darn good motherboard. Now that the SLI is set up on here with 2 Geforce GTX 1070's (8 GB DDR5 RAM per card), yeah....and the 32 gb of ram, had a video driver update the other day, I think mtm2 beta runs better than it did before now... but believe it or not, this is absolute MAX graphics with the beta.. Complex scenery (slower) / High image quality (slower) / allow damage, shadows, textured sky, smoke effects, dashboard, tire tracks, blimp, triple buffer, FULL visibility (120), lens flare / flicker reduction, dithering/smoothing/reflections/truck reflections/water effects/headlights/ ALLLLLLLLLLL of it, 1920x1080, direct 3D. Video cards at work. Windows 10. You may find that hard to believe, seeing the frame rate @ bottom right being that high @ 1920x1080 with the graphics so high, but this computer is serious business.

I'm thinking this computer runs mtm2 better with direct3d rather than 3dfx.

It wasn't about which one was most expensive, it was about this current one I'm using being an older model than the other one. The newer one broke. The newer one was less expensive, in a manner I'm saying "they don't make them like they used to"..motherboards not as reliable as they used to be. Anyway, I'm about to reinstall MTM2 from scratch but my keyboard is like 15 years old probably, god knows how old my keyboard is, it's a Microsoft Multimedia Keyboard, but it has multimedia global keys on it which are cool to use. Means I can play games and switch songs / pause play and change music while I play, buuut..I can't do that in mtm2, well, I just reinstalled windows today, but about to try installing mtm2 to see if it works with the original client..but don't know if I should install the keyboard driver first, or mtm2.

edit: I say really good dust filters, and real good case, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product. ... 6811133192 (if interested), but all the reviews are like blahblahblah the power button breaks.. LOL..yes the power button has broken before a few times and has been sketchy for me too, big deal, so I don't press it much. If it does "break" I just take the front off, unscrew the mount holding the power button in and push the power button back out to where it needs to be..it isn't glued in hard enough is the problem; but anyways, after that, it's fine for a while. Then if it breaks again, I just rinse and repeat. But I hardly ever need to press it anyways so it hardly ever gets messed up. If I have to shut computer off completely I shut down, flip switch in the back off, do what I gotta do...when I go to turn it back on, I flip PSU switch back on and it just turns itself back on anyways; also, if I shut the computer down, I don't even use the power button to turn it back on, I just tap the space bar or click the mouse because keyboard & mouse can wake the computer from shut down. Sigh...

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