Monday, September 27, 2010

Dargah Sharif of Ajmer

These famous lines of a popular Hindi film reverberate with the trust and conviction of thousands of people thronging the Dargah Sharif of Ajmer to offer their prayers…

Situated about 11 kms from Pushkar and 145 kms from Jaipur, The Dargah Sharif is the final resting place of the great Sufi saint - Hazrat Khwaja Syed Muhammad Muinuddin Chishti.

Also known as Gharib Nawaz, or 'Benefactor of the Poor', the Khwaja was one of the greatest saintly liberators of human sufferings, a vast oasis of peace and harmony, moral strength and divine enlightenment. He still is, in spirit, through His blessings and love which one can sense when one is here. No wonder then, it is believed that no one returns empty handed from His divine abode.

Going back in time, the great Mughal Emperor Akbar once came to the Dargah Sharif in the 16th century to offer prayers for an heir and later his prayer was answered. It was his belief that had brought him there. And even today, it’s this belief that brings not only the common man but also popular personalities, of all faiths and from all fields, to this living cenotaph all round the year to pay homage to the great saint. During the Urs, which is held in honor of the death anniversary of the Saint, it is said that, this Muslim mosque is totally a different place swarmed with lakhs of pilgrims from all over the world.

You will have to leave your cars a good distance away from the main shrine as after this point, entry of vehicles are restricted (I had left my camera too as our driver told us that electronic gadgets are not allowed inside the dargah). Walking on foot, this is the time when you will be able to see the different colors of Ajmer. The narrow lanes are lively, bustling with colorful bazaars selling a variety of stuff from chaddars and scarves to clothes and food. I walk past beggars asking for alms, other pilgrims hurrying past and shopkeepers who urge you to remove footwear in their shops and buy something instead. Soon, the smell of fresh rose and jasmine flowers, sandalwood paste, perfumes and incense sticks floating in the air indicate that I am just about to reach. In a moment, I spot the huge gates. Remove your footwear, cover your head, two things must be done before entering.

I entered the main dargah, where the saint lies buried.Every corner inside is done up in gold which furnishes the whole aura in grandeur and divinity. Tried to get near his crypt but it was getting too difficult to stand in the place filled to the brim, with everybody trying to do the same. It is surrounded by a silver railing with a cleric sitting besides it. He takes the offerings, puts them on the tomb and taps your head with a feather fan before directing you towards the exit gate. I wish I could have spent some more time here.

[ The resting place of the saint, Khwaja Syed Muhammad Muinuddin Chishti

Outside, in the premises, there is a humble baoli or water reservoir whose waters are said to cure all diseases. There are people roaming around here carrying water-filled sacks who will insist you buy one of this. This essentially means that, you will then get to empty the water from the sack in the pond which, in turn, is said to bring good luck and prosperity.

Just a little ahead are two enormous cauldrons filled with rice, lentils, dry fruits and condiments donated by the pilgrims. This is daily cooked and distributed free among the poor.

As I headed towards the exit, I spotted the professional singers called 'qawwals' sitting in groups, singing qawwallis (Sufi hymns) in the praises of the saint in a distinguishing voice penetrating not only through the walls but also your soul. Every time I have heard Sufi songs live, especially in dargahs, be it at the Haji Ali dargah in Mumbai or here, the experience has truly been a magical one… the magic of the music merging with the soul… It was a wonderful feeling that stayed on with me as I made my way towards the city!

33 comments:

Too bad you could not get any pictures inside, but I suppose it would be disrespectful. Did you buy anything outside? I have heard some Sufi songs, or at least ones inspired by them, and they are truly beautifuil. you described it best with the word magical.

beautiful post arti ...i heard a lot about this holy place n also saw in movie but don't have detailed idea ...thanks for sharing dear ...u r so lucky as ur getting opportunity to visit such a holy places n we too as we r ur friends

Its a really wonderful place. I had the same feelings when i went there... and those huge cauldrons are apparently ancient.. given by some mughal king... someone told me it was akbar,but i am not too sure about that!

Nice to hear of thousands thronging their way. This looks like a truly magical (there's that word again but I think it is the only one to use) spectacle. Amazing to think that lots of religions have holy water which is said to cure in common. Thanks for another fasinating post.

Dear ArtiI liked it. You have made this post very informative too. I recall once I spent the whole day sitting at the Dargha observing people who came there. It was a memorable experience. Did you go to dhai din ka jhopDa or so....?Have a nice day

Having heard several times about the Ajmer Dargah from friends and also from movies I often wondered about who this person was. Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. The writeup is a wonderful sketch of the place and I think it is really be worth while reading it.

One of my favourite favourite places! And my absolute favourite song. The whole vibe of the Dargah is electrifying. I love the walk till the Dargah, through the bazaars selling everything one can possibly think of! The huge cauldrons are called 'Degs' where people donate money for langar services for the poor.

I am sure the qawaali must have been mesmerising! It is a soul enriching experience indeed :)

My visit to Dargah Sharif was a lovely cultural experience. It was fun just watching the sights along the way to the place. The faith people have is just amazing. Though we ended up going on a holiday when it was crowded.

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Hi there! I am Arti - a 20 something girl with an inherited travel gene, often found on the road travelling with my best friend, inspiration and guide - my father. I love travelling to spiritual places and consider my external yatras as continuous learning journeys within; a journey where I seek to discover and experience the real treasures of this life someday. Besides helping my own self, this blog of mine also aims to help those planning to make a trip to these places or simply provide a virtual tour to the rest.
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