Installing a Pocket Door

Install a single pocket door to save floor space -- the door disappears into the wall when opened. While basic types are used for closets and bathrooms, heavier, more elaborate double pocket doors are available for areas where appearance is important.

There must be room for the pocket door to travel inside the wall. The wall must be wide enough for the door and it must be free of plumbing, wiring, or ductwork.

The pocket door frame shown here is available at many home centers and comes as a unit with the track already attached, making it easy to install. In some cases you may need to buy separate parts -- including individual split jambs, spacers for the jambs, wheel carriers, and the overhead track -- and install them one at a time.

Purchase the door and its hardware along with the frame, and make sure all the parts will be compatible. The door size must match the size of the pocket frame.

Prestart Checklist

Time
Once the rough opening is done, half a day to install the pocket door frame, the drywall, and the door; a day or two more to finish the wall

A pocket door hangs on carriers that travel on an overhead track. The door slides between split jambs inside the wall. A bumper at the rear of the frame or the side of the door keeps the door from sliding too far into the wall, and guides at the floor keep the door from rattling inside the frame.

Step 1

Following manufacturer's specs, prepare an opening wide enough for the door frame. If there is an existing door, remove it and its jambs. Remove studs as needed (temporarily support the ceiling if the wall is load bearing) and install framing, including a header. Check the sides for plumb.

Attach the door frame to a stud and to the header. Use shims and check that the frame is kept square, level, and plumb. Attach the bumper to the rear of the frame (unless it will be attached to the door). If you are installing a set of two doors, install another frame on the other side.

Attach the wheel carrier bracket to the top of the door, several inches from each end. Slip the wheel carriers into the track. Attach the handles (these often need to be bought separately); you may need to bore holes first.

Lift the door up and slip each wheel bracket onto its wheel carrier. (This can be difficult; you may have to adjust the wheel carrier mechanism so it is fully extended.) Close the locking device on each bracket. Check that the door glides smoothly.

Rip a piece of jamb stock or 1x lumber to fit opposite the split jambs. The jambs should be flush with the surface of the drywall (usually 1/2-inch proud of the studs and the header). Attach the jambs with finishing nails or trimhead screws.

I wonder why you'd go to all the trouble and expense of a kit, when you can simply use 2x4s turned sideways to form a pocket, then get the great, extruded Johnson Hardware track & rollers? Far less time, certainly less money and for a 5'2" woman like me? Farrrrrrr less to lift. I've made 15 pocket doors this way, + using beautiful antique doors I stripped with Citristrip. Nothing needs to be as difficult as people want to make it, I find.

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Hope it will help you next time !

It is not as simple as your steps #4 shows it. It has more to it, that really requires knowledge & experience! There are more details to it, and these are main details for it. Please explained them better and deeply!