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Hi Guys this is my first post on this thread and to be honest I am a newbe when it comes to this kind of technical work but I think the HMZ-T1 is broken, perhaps due to being modified. Any advice would be really appreciated.

I am using the HMD as part of my research to display visual stimuli. I modified it by attaching it to a cycle helmet to get a stable fit for many head sizes. To deal with the 10second time out I held the forehead button down using an elastic band. Once I had collected my initial set of data the HMD was left in storage for about 3-4 months but now it doesn’t seem to work. The pattern of issues is as follows:

· Sometimes when it is connected to the laptop I get no operation from the HMD at all. The green light on the pass through box flashes and the computer seems to recognize that it is there because the screen resolution automatically changes but the HMD screen remains blank.

· After unplugging everything, checking all the settings etc, the HMD will suddenly start working. I can get through the normal welcome, set up screens and the laptop desktop is displayed (at this point I am elated). But after 1 – 1.5 minutes the screen goes blank. It doesn’t state that there is no signal it is just blank whilst the green light on the pass through box remains on solid.

I’ve searched through forums etc and called sony but I haven’t found any details relating to this issue The sony rep said it sounded broken and that I should send it in. She suggested that it may need charging but alas this has not helped. As the product is out of warrantee the sony rep advised that it may cost more to fix it than to just buy a new one I am thinking about taking it apart and having a look myself. I figured that maybe the button under the head pad could be broken in some way.

Has anybody had a similar problem? or have any idea what the green flashing light means? If anyone has suggestions of other tests I could do to isolate the problem that would be really helpful too.

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Sounds like the switch where the forehead pressure-pad is is not staying on. Try manually activating it by toggling it back. Also double check that all cable connections are firmly seated in their sockets.

Since my last post I have replaced all of the cables used in the set up and tried a different laptop. I have also removed the top black panel to check that the forehead button is securely reaching the small internal button but there seems to be no problem there. The parts connect fine and the small internal button appears to be intact. Then I removed the forehead button and spring completely and fixed the small internal button so that was permanently held down. Unfortunately, none of these things have rectified the problem so I am certain that the issue does not relate to output device, connecting wires or the forehead button.

I've timed it a few times and I pretty much always get between 1 and 1.5 minutes of usual functioning and then a black screen. This is not accompanied by a no signal message so it seems that the signal is going in fine it just isn't being displayed.The odd thing about the fault is that it is so consistent. if there was some loose wiring or connection somewhere I would assume that the duration of normal function would be more varied. It makes me think that there is a problem with an electrical component but this certainly isn't my area of knowledge. If anyone has heard of anything similar or can offer any advice I would be very grateful!

Maybe because my laptop is not built for 3d even though the nvidia settings are 3d, I tried to turn off the laptop display and just have the viewer as a display but still nothing, the hmz doesn't recognize the 3d. What 3d setting do you have it at? Because when I put auto it just sends the blue and red 3d? Do you have it on polarized?

Maybe because my laptop is not built for 3d even though the nvidia settings are 3d, I tried to turn off the laptop display and just have the viewer as a display but still nothing, the hmz doesn't recognize the 3d. What 3d setting do you have it at? Because when I put auto it just sends the blue and red 3d? Do you have it on polarized?

I have it on Auto. If i select polarized it just looks all jumbled up. I have AMD Radeon 6650 graphics, which is still 3 years old. I didnt really expect it to work after seeing your post but tried anyways. Maybe you have Intel graphics as well so that is what PowerDVD is detecting. See if you can completely disable the Intel graphics or set Nvidia as primary. Try updating your nvidia drivers to latest. I use drivers from AMD website rather than my laptops drivers download page.

Edit: Let me try polarized and see because I think I used polarized when it was duplicating by laptops display and not when the HMD was going solo. At that time it was jumbled up. I've got 6 hours of office time remaining before i get to go home.

Yeah Nvidea is my driver for graphics and is up to date, my only other guess is that theme USB port output is not 3d pass through, so far the only 3d that works is side by side and top by bottom, but if you think about it those are 2D files that the viewer combines, not the computer.

The .STL files are ready for printing in ABS (3D printing), you have the precise measures to install HMZT1’s lens electronics and navigation buttons. They are 3 parts to be assembled, the pieces must be drilled to install the screws that hold them together. You decide where to take the assembly to install on goggles or whatever you want.

The images are from my last HMZT1 modification, the results are truly commendable.

Before buying am still confused on what to connect to input my mkv's and sbs.....

I shall use the glasses on my bed. I have a projection room with a 720p 3d projector but in summer I don't use it as the room comes totally hot so am thinking of using this visor on my bed with the air conditioning system

My only problem is that I have only an ipad mini 2.......I can buy the lightning to hdmi cable but still I will have a problem on how to play my mkv/sbs that are located in another room on the hard disk of the mac mini which normally I play via xbmc to my projector.

Since I shall be using the visor in my bedroom I literally need only small/hideable gadgets.......any suggestions ?

Try both, but I'm pretty sure it is designed for "far distance" vision, not "reading distance" vision.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass, etc., any more than we pick the ending of a play. High fidelity means an unmodified, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original artist's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..