Here’s something many of Denver’s smaller neighborhood sushi restaurants forget: Sushi is not supposed to taste like wasabi or soy sauce.

Japon, a longtime tenant of the Old South Gaylord strip (between East Tennessee and East Mississippi avenues), knows better. Here, the fish is cut carefully and clearly, resulting in soft, melty bites that carry the flavors of fish. Halibut, clean with a Northern-ocean brininess. Snapper, sweet and nutty. Mackerel, gloriously oily and fishy.

Wasabi optional.

Here’s another thing Japon does nicely: Keeping hot food hot. Dumplings come out screaming and stay that way, because your server wasted no time between the kitchen and your table. Bite into that first piece of tempura gingerly, or you’ll singe your tongue. Even the fried agedashi tofu packs heat, well into your second sampling.

Japon, which expanded several years ago, is a much grander restaurant inside than its street presence would suggest. A sprawling sushi bar sits in front of a large glass-and-water wall. The glitz is unnecessary, but harmless enough, and the restaurant’s homey character is hardly compromised.

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