Contributed Comments

Comments: Did Carey Granite today with Quinn Stevens. This is a fantastic route and one that I have been wanting to do for a while. Truly each pitch is great, good climbing, excellent position and exposure, and fun. The traverse is a bit heady After trying using the "high" beta and falling, I used the crimps for my hands (low beta) and definitely think this is the best and most secure way. Really not too bad. The hand crack out the roof is awesome.

Comments: I have added a third fixed chain under the roof. This should provide some additional protection if cleaning the route from only the fixed chains, since the bolt under the roof (now middle chain) seems a bit suspect. I do not have the knowledge to replace a bolt without really messing up the rock, but this bolt may well qualify for some help.

Comments: I first climbed this route years ago, but only did it once as I botched the rope management, had heinous rope drag, and then got distracted to do other things. Now I have gone back to this one, and the while the rope management adds to the complexity of the climb, making you actually plan your route a bit, I think it makes for a more interesting day. Overall, I think this line is fantastic, harder than TDD, and Great Escape, with some very fun, pumpy moves through the roof and good exposure. ... more >>

Comments: So after reading about these mussy hooks, I looked into them more as Ken suggested, and they are being promoted at Owens River Gorge and by the ASCA as a preferred anchor for sport climbs such as at Anarchy Wall. When I first used these, I think I used the small one that Ken put up, but now that I look at the larger one (rated >1000 lbs), it seems to clip ok although stiff and to be ok on the rope. I will plan on putting these back up in place of the biners I installed recently. ... more >>

I am glad to read the history and situation. I will admit to removing the hooks on Power Trip and Hazardous Waste, and would love to get them back to you ASAP. I wanted to put in stainless steel biners or clips that were easier to clip, but didn't find them yet and was fed up with clipping the hooks. They seemed to twist my rope significantly and I felt the clip was very difficult. With regard to the anchor position on Power Trip, my only reason for putting the clip where i... more >>

Comments: This is a fantastic line, thanks to Darren for putting it in. Hard start, then sustained difficult climbing to the top on beautiful rock. This has become one of my favorite routes at the grade in CCC. Probably soft for 12d, perhaps as more people climb the route, the grade will solidify.

Comments: I agree with the above comments, the re-bolting while attempting to be a service, has changed the routes and put bolts in rock in areas that are not needed. In addition, the upper anchors on Power Trip and Anarchy in the UK now cause the rope to run sharply over the edge. The added bolts, especially to the 12a/b, and the 11c are entirely out of character with the "old" routes, and are not needed. I too agree that the 12c traverse will now be much more dangerous to lead, and am glad that I fini... more >>

Comments: Everyone who is a trad climber should read the analysis that John posted about the physics and forces of climbing falls. I have been climbing for years, and taken a number of good sized whippers (one in particular onto a Orange Alien!). However I was shocked to actually look at the forces we generate with falls that are in my opinion pretty small, and then to compare those forces to the rated strength of the camming devices we reley so heavily on. I think that obviously manufacturing issues a... more >>

Comments: Just curious about rappelling off the Edge, I recall rapping the route a few years back, but yesterday could not find the anchors on top so took the East Slab descent. Any info on where to rappel from? Thanks.

Comments: AC: I think you are referring to the line next to mighty dog, called fiddler on the roof. Completely manufractured holds through the roof, quite disappointing if you were not expecting it. MIghty Dog however is natural as far as I know and a worthy line that actually holds the grade of 12c. Try it.

Comments: Stuffed Wolf is simply stellar. There is some loose stone on the route, likely due to the overall lack of traffic, but the moves are technical, difficult and unrelenting. Resting on this one is quite a challenge. Perhaps one of my favorite lines in CCC.