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Description

Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers! P1: WI3 P2: WI3 P3: WI3+ P4: WI3 P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine) P6: WI6 P7: WI6

Descent: Use V-Threads. Trees can be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.

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Updated descent beta: P4- Rap from tree on left. 36m. A single 70m rope will get you down right to the ends. Assuming you weigh over 160 lbs and are using a skinny rope. P3- Rap from bolts above ledge to left of the creek, about 10m up from the top. Same as the P4 rap, a single 70 will just barely get you down based on conditions. P1/2- Rap from bolts on "cliff" left of the creek about 10m. A pair of 60s will easily put you at the base.
Dec 30, 2017