Contents

Season

Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

Rock

Sandstone

Gear

Sport Rack & a 50m rope. If you wish to top rope, a couple of medium length slings and locking carabiners might be necessary.

The climbing

This Crag features short bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

Getting there

East side): At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Some way before the saddle look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towars a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.West side): One can park in Mountain Rd., Clovelly, In which case cross the saddle before joining the trail to the crag. From the Clovelly side if you are wanting to climb the Mermaid area, it is easier to turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turnoff left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be the Mermaid wall.

Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. FA Phlip Olivier(lead) / Guy Holwill (toprope)

Note These lines are all to the right of the cave from the raised ledge. The toprope lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach them by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading out of Neptunes Cove and clambering over atop the cliff, just watch out the large flake slab right of (facing the crag) the rings is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

Oyster Box

Routes 14 & 15 in the book are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two and is the obvious line right of the jutting overhang. 14 is Lurchin Urchin (a direct sit-start has been climbed by Paul Shlotveld at 26), route 15 is a mega hard project that needs rebolting.

Heartbreak (29)

Thin face right of Catfish Rising. Climb the direct face. An easier version may exist using slopers on the right.
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

The Art of War (32)

Right of Pocket Rocket (#18 in book).
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Blackbeards Cave

Dark Angel (30)

Greg Hart's old project (#24 in book).
FA Marijus Smigelskis.

Xses (24)

Right of Dark Angel. Start from cheater stones. Marijus opened a start from the back of the cave at grade 27. (#25 in book).
FA Greg Hart / Marijus Smigelskis.