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I receive so many questions from members here with no understanding of the bluing process or Preparation that I have decided to post about this with the intent of saving our members GRIEF and MONEY.

So basically we have two different types of AK kits out there to restore, the AK47 and the AKM47.These can be split into two categories; blued or painted (yes I know there are parked and oxided Romy's and parked refurbs, etc. just bear with me here).

Depending on the year of manufacture and the process used at the building arsenal your kit may have been blued. An example of this in the type III variety would be the Polish KBK; the KBK 60 is a blued kit and the KBK 72 was a painted rifle. Another is the current Bulgy underfolder or "Salmon" stocked kits. These were painted while the late '50's/'60's kits were blued.............

I think you get my point here but I would like to touch on the AKM series also as most European AKM's started out blued but then changed (usually in the mid to late '60's or a bit later if E German). Sometimes to paint and sometimes to parkerized with black oxide. Black Oxide is basically blue over park in this case.

If you are wanting to restore or replicate the blued finish than

DO NOT BLAST ANYTHING

I guess since parts are blasted for most applied finish the "New" guys think it is necessary before bluing (which is NOT an applied finish).
Think about it this way:Applied finish = anything that you want to stick to the metal (blasted to clean but also to give "grip") and the finish is THICK enough to smooth out the blasting.Blued finish = the condition of the metal before it goes into the bluing tank. In other words you get out what you put in. Want it satin or flat black than glass bead or sand blast.Want it to look like a NOS milled type III? Don't blast it.................

Cerrakote looks as much like bluing as spray can silver looks like a chrome bumper!

This is the "rub" and can be applied to most of your life.......Price = Time and Time = Quality

You want this to look badass? Send the barrel and parts kit to your builder and have him build it then have him unpopulate the barrel (except leave the barrel and pin in the receiver) and send it and all the pins to me for sanding of the receiver and polishing before bluing. This way it will look like factory. Make sure the barrel pin is at least as wide as the receiver so it will almost disappear when I sand the receiver (E German pins are tapered at the ends and not sanded flush).

To do it this way my quote will be $350.00 (quite a bit of this is in the receiver work, they are rough) but you will be totally stoked, I promise! If your parts are rusty than we need to talk because the pits have to be filed/sanded out, remember.........what goes in the bluing tank is what comes out of the bluing tank.

Check out the pics of my personal KBK? this rifle has been hanging on the wall a number of years but still looks pretty good!

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Participating in a gun buyback program because you believe the criminals have too many guns is like having yourself castrated because you believe the neighbors have too many kids