i use tap water. i have tried everything else and never made better beer thatn out of my sink. sometimes a recipe will call for gypsum or calcium sulfate, but you have to know your local water. take a sample of tap water up to the nearest spa dealership and they will give you a water profile. also, "beer Captured has a really good water modification chart. by the way, virginia beach happens to have great water for brewing. guess i lucked out.

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I like to fill water bottles a day before I brew and leave them out in the sun. That removes any chlorine and gets my water to 90-100F for a afternoon brew. If I don't have water ready I usually boil it first. I do some pH adjustments for the mash and sparge.

The tap water in Denver is pretty damn good by itself and works particularly well for light-colored styles because it is soft.

The only thing I do is fill my pots with cold tap water through a sprayer (to help degas the chlorine) the night before and let it sit uncovered to further degas. Plus, the water warms up to room temp so my time on the flame is shorter.

Ok, so those of you that Use Campden how much are you adding? if you Read online and read Homebrewers Answer Book they have 2 Diffrent Amounts.. I Personally have never used Campden but Just reading made me Curious!

I use a carbon block filter and campden, usually 1/2 tablet in 8 gallons of liquor. Delicate beers get brewed with half RO water.

I always add calcium as CaSO4 and CaCl2, but where to add depends on the beer. Most beers, it goes into both the mash (directly) and sparge (liquor), but for very dark beers that don't need help getting the mash pH down, it gets added to the sparge liquor to keep the sparge pH down.