The Arsenal

By Amanda Hesser

Published: December 5, 2004

When I set out to make chocolate pudding, I gathered a handful of recipes, including this one, which comes from Dorie Greenspan, author of ''Paris Sweets.''

But I didn't try this one at first. It seemed too long for something as simple as chocolate pudding. So I put it aside and forgot about it.

I had a picture in my head of what a great chocolate pudding should taste like. It should be light and not overly sweet. It should have elasticity yet not be too sticky. And above all, it should taste of good-quality chocolate. I began with a recipe from ''Joy of Cooking,'' which is made with cornstarch but no eggs and is simmered on the stove. It was a fine recipe but a little too sweet and heavy on the cornstarch. Next, I made the chocolate pudding recipe from ''Recipes From Home,'' by David Page and Barbara Shinn, the owners of Home Restaurant. In their headnote, they write that it is ''the single most requested recipe by our customers.'' I can see why, but because it is made with eggs and no cornstarch and is cooked in a hot-water bath in the oven, it is really more pot de cr? than pudding.

So I began working on my own recipe, using milk instead of cream, less sugar, a combination of eggs and cornstarch -- for richness and elasticity -- and cooking it on the stove. But mine was never perfect.

Going through my original notes, I came across Dorie Greenspan's recipe. In it were all the elements I had been aiming for, plus something that makes all the difference: the pudding is pur? in the food processor in the last step, filling it with air and making a rich treat that's light in spirit.

1. Bring 2 cups of the milk and 3 tablespoons of the sugar to a boil in a saucepan. While the milk is heating, toss the cocoa, cornstarch and salt into the work bowl of a food processor and pulse to blend; turn the ingredients out onto a sheet of wax paper. Place the egg, egg yolks and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in the work bowl and process for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the remaining 1/4 cup milk. Process for a few seconds, return the dry ingredients to the bowl and pulse just until blended.

2. With the machine running, slowly pour in the hot milk, processing to blend. The mixture will be foamy, but the bubbles will disappear when the pudding is cooked. Pour the mixture into the saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring continuously, for about 2 minutes, or until the pudding thickens. (The pudding should not boil.) Scrape the pudding into the processor, add the remaining ingredients and pulse until they are evenly blended.

3. Pour the pudding into 6 1/2-cup bowls or 1 large bowl. Chill for at least 4 hours. Serve plain or topped with heavy cream, whipped or not.

Serves 6. Adapted from Dorie Greenspan.

Photo (Photograph by Tina Rupp for The New York Times. Food stylist: Toni Brogan.)