The Board Track Racer, Briggs powered---Video

...but with a motor too. I have not been here for a while. The motored bike forum is pretty lame and there isn't a lot of handbuilt stuff there. I like this group a bit better. I hope you don't mind.

I'll share my build so far.

I hate the Chinese kits with a passion. So I found an tiny little engine and I'm gonna see if it works. I took a piece of scrap pipe and bent a new downtube for a Schwinn I had laying around. After hacking out a section of the down tube I welded it in. I cut out a plate to mount the Briggs and Stratton and have started collecting parts for the rest of the build.

This evening I installed a different, rigid fork for tire clearance on the bike. I laced up a MTB disk brake front hub on to a Surly Large Marge rim. It's wider than any other MTB rim and with 2.4" tires they should be short and fat. I'm hoping the 24" wheels will give the bike a longer look without having to stretch the frame.

I took an old set of cruiser bars that had the right bend and chopped them off so I had a nice, narrow set of boardtrack looking bars and installed inverted levers.

This is just a mock-up picture of the frame. Non of the parts are it are going to be used.

Engine

Bars-

Rims-

Inspiration-

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I got the rear wheel laced up this morning. I'm using an ATOM drum brake rear hub.

Our shop camera sucks so the pics are a bit fuzzy.

I'm still waiting on the tires I will be using. They'll be a tad bit wider than the one I have on the front.

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I have done a little more work now.

The tires showed up yesterday and they are now mounted. I have about an 1/8th inch of clearance on each side of the stay. I'm gonna pinch the tubes a little bit for more.

I found a really short pair of cranks on a kids bike and put those in. I had to cut a little bit of metal out of the engine plate to clear the 28 tooth front chainwheel. I can now ride the bike!

I scored a disk brake caliper from B Rose at Shockspital. He is THE MAN for disk brake and suspension work in the ENTIRE US...not ..... Super good guy. He tossed in a disk mount so I can now run an 8", big ... rotor.

I cut up the stock fork dropouts so the wheel would sit up further in them. This way the brakes won't eject the wheel and it also lowered the front end an inch. It steepened the head tube angle and should get rid of the "chopper" feel it had. I was then able to weld on mounts for the disk brake caliper.

Pogo had a piece of steel rod (hood support for a Bronco) that was cut up and made into two fork struts. The struts mount to the top of the steer tube, up and over the bars.

Thanks! The levers were a pain to get on there. I drilled the holes I needed and used a screwdriver to persuade the metal to where I needed it so the housing would go through the bar.

The first problem was were the housing came out of the bar. The angle was way to sharp for the cable action to be smooth. I ended up using parallel pull (v-brake) noodles so the angle is nice and tight, with virtually no drag on the cable. BTW, I also use index shifter cable housing since it is a lot stiffer than standard brake housing along with super slick Shimano XTR brake cables. They flow like warm butter now!

Today I started work on the wheel sheave. I'm using another 24" rim that is going to be bolted on to the fat rim. I bought some aluminum flat stock and chopped it into 18 small pieces (one mount in between each left hand spoke). I drilled one hole and started bolting them to the sheave. Tomorrow I should have the holes drilled in the fat rim and the sheave mounted. I'm gonna have to notch the seat stays and chain stays a considerable amount for the belt and sheave to clear.

This guy had a similar concept. But I'm running a jack shaft and centrifugal clutch. No suicide lever. He actually is using the same engine too (except mine is centered in the frame, hence the need for the jack shaft)

Back again. I have the sheave mounted to the rim now. It's pretty much only for mock up. I need to pull it apart and clean up the brackets I made to mount it.

I drilled out 9 holes in the chrome rim and bolted the brackets in. I then drilled 9 holes in the Surly rim and countersunk the bolts on the inside of the rim. It seems pretty sturdy bout I may add 9 more brackets.

I'm gonna have to do some major work to the rear triangle now in order to fit this. I thinks it's a good idea though since the old Schwinn frame is pretty thin in spots. It will also give me a chance to shorten up the frame a little bit and maybe do some top tube modifications.

I started to do work on the frame. I re-spaced the hub on the drive side and cut off that side of the frame. I made a small plug for the frame and sectioned a piece of an old hub for the seat stay mount. It's tack in for now. I had to reset the frame to get the wheel to sit true in the frame again. Tonight I'm gonna tack in the chainstay section.