Front or rear? Rear I'm going to assume you spun a hub.First wheel, brake drum,mounting bolts that hold the axle to the rear end, all come off. Then you take a slide hammer to remove the axle from the housing. Sometimes the will simply fall out (not very often).Rmember to replace the bearing race in the housing. And torque the nut on the new setup to what the instuctions say. Remeber you are cutting threads into the axle as you tighten it up. The tighter the better. Hope this helps.

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One of your Jeeps may have a heavier duty axle option. The main worry you would have would be are they the same gear ratio. If you swap in a rear end with a different ratio, and use 4wd, it will tear your drivetrain apart!

so.... either the cable is broken, or the parking brake mechanism is missing, broken, rusted? You should be able to crawl under and watch the cables being pulled as somone works the parking brake lever. If they work ok, then its time to pull the wheels off and ck the brakes.

Shackles are pretty straight forward. Remove the existing bolts, change the shackles and reverse the procedure to install. Good idea to change the bushings while you're in there if they are at all questionable. It's best to do this with the CJ in the air, supported on the frame and use a floor jack under the axle to lift/lower the spring in/out of the shackle, one side at a time.

Timing should advance when accelerated. You have the vac on the distributor hooked to manifold vacuum. It needs to be on ported vacuum. And your base timing could be higher. I would set it at ten degrees.

You will need more than just the length of the housings to do that. you need to know the distance from spring perch to spring perch, distance from perch to backing plate on each side and the offset of the center section, so that when mounted, the driveshafts are not running at an angle. You also need to find the pinion angle at rest: (the amount of upward or downward pitch of the pinion)In making these measurements you can avoid the possibility of having one axle protruding further past the springs, or damaging universal joints by having them run at an angle that isn't correct.You can find lots of info on swaps at several online jeep forums. Many of the people there have done swaps and have taken those measurements and have the info you need to do it correctly.If you have access to a welder, cutting tools and jigs, that opens up numerous possibilities as any differential can be used in any vehicle if it is properly prepared before install!! Just offhand, i don't think that the wagoneer units will fit because it is much wider than a cj. Try jeepforums .com for swap info.good luck

-->All AMC 20s have a 8 7/8" R&P and use a 29 spline shafts. The AMC 20 R&P is 3/8" bigger than the Dana 44, but it uses smaller shafts, smaller axle tubes, and the CJ version comes with weaker two piece shafts. The AMC20 uses a 29 spline shaft where as the later Dana 44 uses a 30 spline shaft. The AMC 20 housing tends to flex a lot which can cause breakage. This can be remedied by welding the tubes and/or adding gussets. The reason the AMC 20 flexes more than the Dana 44 is the shorter differential housing and smaller axle tubes. It's other flaw is the CJ version uses the two piece axle made up of a hub and a shaft. The hub end tends to break off under load which has created the market for one piece AMC 20 axle shafts. Unfortunately, the shafts are expensive ($350+ USD) and in some cases a special bearing must be used.
-->Identifying the gear ratio of an AMC 20 is a bit tricky. Dana axles normally have a tag on the left of the diff cover with the gear ratio at the time of build. The AMC axles have a code that has to be looked up in a table. The code is stamped on the housing boss to the left of the diff cover right near the axle tube. Good part about the stamp is it tends to stay readable longer than the tag, but you have to know the code. Since there are conflicts between what a code means for a narrow track and what it means for a wide track, don't count solely on the code to identify an axle. Bring a tape measure or know the source of the part.
Specs
Narrow Track AMC 20
Code
Gear Ratio
Diff Type
AA
2.73
Open
DD
2.73
Trac-Lok
BB
3.31
Open
CC
3.31
Trac-Lok
A
3.54
Open
N
3.54
Trac-Lok
GG
3.73
Open
Q
3.73
Trac-Lok
L
4.10
Open
M
4.10
Trac-Lok
Wide Track AMC 20
Code
Gear Ratio
Diff Type
D
2.73
Open
DD
2.73
Trac-Lok
B
3.31
Open
BB
3.31
Trac-Lok
A
3.54
Open
AA
3.54
Trac-Lok
H
3.73
Open
HH
3.73
Trac-Lok
C
4.10
Open
CC
4.10
Trac-LokThe Trac-Lok is a limited slip differential. You may have to scrape away a lot of mud, paint, and rust to uncover the code. If you can't find the code on the rear, check the tag on the front axle. Both axles should be geared the same.
The R&P ratio ranges supported by the carriers are 2.73 and 3.31-5.13. The 5.13 gear ratio is not available for the Dana 30 though, so it is rare to see it. 4.56s are the lowest common ratio between the Dana 30 and AMC 20. 5.13s are available for the Dana 44.
CJ AMC 20
The CJs used two versions of the AMC 20, the narrow track from '76-'81 and the wide track from '82-'86. Both versions use keyed, two piece shaft/hub design and 5 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern. Supplies of AMC 20s were exhausted in 1986 and some Dana 44s were used instead in the last of the CJ-7s.
From 1976-1978 a larger 11x2" drum brakes was used on the AMC 20. After 1978, a 10x1.75" drum was used.
SJ AMC 20
The Wagoneer and full size Cherokee also used a narrow and wide track version of the AMC 20. Both SJ versions used once piece shafts and 6 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern. Since the length and bolt pattern is different from the CJ version, the SJ shafts are not compatible without resplining and redrilling. I've never heard of anyone going to the trouble.
Model/Version
Spring Pads
Wheel to Wheel
Years
AMC 20/CJ Narrow Track
36"
50.5"
'76-'81
AMC 20/CJ Wide Track
36"
54.5"
'82-'86
AMC 20/SJ Narrow Track
AMC 20/SJ Wide Track
Last modified Friday, 03-Dec-1999 21:48:34 MST[ Jeep Tech Main Page | Terry's Jeep Page ]

Do you have bolt in axels? or are they held in with C- clips? If its bolt in axels you need to remove the bolts, and you may need an axel puller to get them out. If its got C- clips rear cover on rearend has to come off, and pin has to be removed to get C- clip out to get axel out.

You could weld the keyway and file it back to size or replace axle. To upgrade, check with some of the big axle manufacturers like strange engineering etc. They could likely help or point you in the right direction. Anything you do will be $$ though.