Description

Start on a chossy, plant ridden ramp. Hike to where the ramp meets with the wall and clip the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt where you pull on some suspect looking rock and onto a fine ledge. From the ledge, you can clip the second bolt, the first two bolts are shared between Separation Of Cherts And Plate and Fossil Fuel.

From the second bolt, bust left. The best part of the climb is from here to the anchors! Sustained movement through a crack system takes you over an exciting roof crux. Pull the roof and clip the chains.

Location

Leftmost route on the wall.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchors

Lowering and Rapping Notes

The anchor is such that lowering off runs the rope over a sharp edge. Rapping off may minimize wear on your rope.

For reference V1 equates to 5.11-, so if a route is 5.6 up to a V1 boulder problem (be it 1 move or 10 moves) then more 5.6, the route would be 5.11-. If the sections before and/or after are closer to the grade of the boulder problem, say 5.10 or so then the route would be harder to account for fatigue.

Great route. The crux to me was definitely at the roof right after the last bolt. The key is getting a strong hold on top with your right, and getting your left foot up on top of the roof (almost matching your left hand in a kinda sketchy pocket). It took a lot of commitment to make that move!

The roof is a 5.9 move. Their are ways to do it that make it feel like a V1, but the simplest way up is 5.9. The move feels insecure, but the rock above the roof is so abrasive I usually just crank up using slopers.