Tiling a Kitchen Countertop

A countertop and backsplash can be planned as a single project or as separate projects.

If you are setting a countertop and backsplash, lay the backsplash tiles
before the countertop front edge to avoid disturbing the edge tiles when you lean over the counter. If possible, hide cut tiles at the top of a backsplash, under wall cabinets. Design the layout so decorative molding avoids electrical outlets.

The installation shown here includes a waterproofing membrane, necessary if the surface will be subject to spills or frequent cleaning. Use latex- or acrylic-modified adhesives and grout. Seal the grout joints to protect them from staining.

Checklist

Time
About 20 minutes per lineal foot of countertop to prepare and set tile

Cut backerboard to fit both sides of the sink. If the sink has reinforcing bars, cut grooves in the pieces to match. Set the sections at both sides of the sink cutout, but do not fasten them. Measure the remaining spaces at the rear and front of the sink, and cut and groove backerboard to fit.

Drop in the sink to make sure its reinforcing bars fit, then fasten the board to the plywood base with backerboard screws. If using backerboard on the backsplash, back-butter it to make the job easier. Tape all joints and edges and apply a thin coat of thinset over the tape.

The number of layout lines required for a countertop installation varies with job complexity. At a minimum, a counter with no sink needs a line that locates the front edge tile. Counters with a sink require lines for the front edge and the perimeter of the sink. For a tiled backsplash, carry the lines up the wall.

L-shape countertops require a slightly different approach than rectangular counters.

Snap a layout line on the front of both legs to locate the position of the edge tiles. Make sure that this line extends the full length of each leg. Then snap the remaining lines for the rear edge tile and tile around the sink. Dry-lay the tiles to keep the location accurate.

Begin the installation of the tile at the intersection of the two legs, working first on the leg without the sink. Then set the field tiles on the second leg, then the backsplash tiles. Clean the joints and the tile surface. Set the V-cap or bullnose edge tiles last to avoid the risk of disturbing them when you lean over the countertop.

Laying the Field Tile

Snap layout grids on the countertop and backsplash as necessary to help you keep the layout straight. Be sure to snap a line where you will lay the edge tiles, both on the front of the countertop and around the perimeter of the sink. Dry-lay as many tiles as necessary to make sure the lines are located correctly. Pull up a section of the dry-laid tiles and apply thinset to the section. Install all of the field tiles first. Let the adhesive cure until it just begins to set up. Then clean the grout lines with a utility knife and remove excess mortar from the tile surface. Let the adhesive cure overnight.

Measure and cut the trim tile to be set around the sink. If using bullnose tile, cut corners on a wet saw. Dry-fit the corners to make sure the grout line will be the same width as the others. Spread thinset on the backerboard and back-butter tiles so they adhere properly. Let the adhesive cure until it just begins to set up. Carefully remove any excess from the joints and perimeter with a utility knife.

If using bullnose tile on the top edges instead of V-cap edging, you can keep the tile in line with a thin batten on the edge of the plywood base. Trowel on thinset and lay the bullnose tile in place on the top of the plywood base. Let the mortar cure, then remove the batten. Back-butter the front edge tiles with thinset. If necessary, tape the tiles in place until the mortar cures.

Keeping both field and edge tiles lined up properly on a countertop can be difficult if you do not have the room to maneuver a long straightedge.

To help keep bullnose edges in line, cut a strip of wood to the thickness of the front edge tile. Tack this batten to the front of the plywood base flush with the top. Install the bullnose so its front edge is flush with the front of the batten.

Sheet-mounted tiles often shift as the mesh backing softens in the thinset. To prod them back in line, use the smooth edge of a trowel as a short straightedge.

Setting the Trim Tile and Grouting: Step 3

When the mortar is dry, clean any residue if necessary. Mix the grout thoroughly to remove any trace of lumps. Spread it into the joints with a grout float held at about a 45-degree angle. Make sure all the joints are completely filled.

If you are trimming the countertop with V-cap, first trowel thinset on the countertop edge. Then back-butter the inside bottom edge and embed the cap in the mortar. V-cap firings often vary a little from field tile sizes. If so, center the cap between the grout joints. The slight difference in grout joint sizes will not be apparent.

If your V-cap extends below the edge of the plywood base, use a piece of scrap or your finger behind the open gap at the bottom edge to keep the grout in place.

To install a wood edge, measure pieces and miter-cut the corners if desired. After the tile is set, fasten the edging to the countertop base with nails or screws. Use 6d finish nails and countersink them with a nail set. Fill the holes with colored filler that matches the wood stain. If using screws, insert and glue wood plugs to hide the tops of counterbored screws.

Setting the Trim Tile and Grouting: Step 4

Clean sections as soon as the grout sets up slightly; to avoid scratches, remove the grout from the surface before it hardens. Remove excess grout with the float. Use a wrung-out wet sponge to smooth the joints and remove the excess grout from the surface. Repeat the cleaning at least once more and wipe off the haze with a rag.

Why do people WANT Tile counter tops? Do these people use their counter tops at all? Cleaning tile floors and shower stalls are hard enough, I can't imagin food staining the grout when someone spills something or paper towle getting caught in the fine granular serface of groute. STOP THE MADNESS! OH IT LOOKS GREAT!! Welcome to your new hobby, maintainging your rediculacly needy countertops...

We have just brought clearance tile for counter top and backsplash that just has the straight edges- no curve in tiles for the edges. How do we make the sides of the counter top and the edges of our back splash?