Whenever I see holiday appropriate crafts, I always wonder how long it takes the author to get from thinking up of the idea to actually creating the finished project and sharing it via blogs. Since I first started designing clothes for dolls, I have never met a holiday "deadline", so I usually just create clothes that are suitable for everyday use.

This hub is a free crochet pattern for a magician costume for Pullip dolls. As usual, this pattern was specifically made on a Pullip Type 4 Body. For more details on the different body types of Pullip dolls, please visit Facts About Pullip Dolls.

Components of the Magician Costume

There are four key components to the costume:

Top Hat;

Magician's Vest;

Short Shorts; and

Convertible Capelet / Skirt.

I planned this outfit to be in separates (unlike my usual one-piece outfits) so you can use any component to complete the look of your doll.

Component 1: Top Hat

Note: While you can use size no. 3 crochet steel hook to make this, gauge is not important for this project.

While there are several top hat patterns available online, I followed the Halloween Top Hat from Red Heart because it also has a video tutorial online. Using A for the base hat, follow the pattern exactly as it is written. Use B to make the hat band.

While the pattern calls for two strands of yarn, I only used one since I felt that the hat stands up well enough with just one strand of crochet cotton thread. You can also use two strands if you prefer to have a much sturdier hat.

Add any embellishments you want either by sewing it on or hot gluing it in place. For my embellishments, I used two pipe cleaners and twisted them together to form a feather shape (I could not find small feathers in our local bookstore). I hot glued the result to the band and added some plastic pearl beads (recycled from a wedding) to hide the ends.

Here is a video tutorial for the pattern explained by Mikey from Crochet Crowd:

Component 2: Magician's Vest

Magician's Vest | Source

Glossary of Abbreviations and Special Stitches

St(s) - stitch(es)

Ch - chain

Sc - single crochet

Inc - work 2 sc in the next st

Sc2tog - sc the next 2 sts together

Sk - skip

Buttonhole - ch 1, sk the next st

Sl st - slip stitch

Note: I intentionally made this vest to have beads as buttons to hold it together. I like the detail it adds to the garment, but if you do not have beads or prefer not to use them, you can sew on snaps and just skip making the buttonholes.

Starting from the bottom:

Row 1: With B, ch 27, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (26)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 12 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (28)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (28)

Row 4: Repeat 3. (28)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, buttonhole, sc in the next 4 sc, inc, sc in the next 14 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (29) 1st buttonhole made

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch-1 space across, turn. (30)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in the first 8 sc, inc, sc in the next 12 sc, inc, sc in the last 8 sc, turn. (32)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the first 7 sc, inc, sc in the next 16 sc, inc, sc in the next 5 sc, buttonhole, sc in the last sc, turn. (33) 2nd buttonhole made

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 st (ach-1 sp counts as a stitch), inc, sc in the next 20 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (36)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 22 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (38)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, buttonhole, sc in the next 3 sc, inc, sc in the next 26 sc, inc, sc in the last 5 sc, turn. (39) 3rd buttonhole made

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in the first 4 sc, inc, sc in the next 4 sc, inc, sc in the next 20 sc, inc, sc in the next 4 sc, inc, sc in the last 4 sc, turn. (44) Do not fasten off.

Working on the first strap:

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the first 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first 5 sc, sc2tog, turn. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first 4 sc, sc2tog, turn. (5)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next sc, sc2tog, turn. (3)

Rows 5-13: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (3)

Fasten off.

Working on the second strap:

Row 1: Sk the next 30 sc from Row 12, attach thread on the next sc, ch 1, sc in the last 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the last 5 sc, turn. (6)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the last 4 sc, turn. (5)

Row 4-13: Same as first strap.

Sew the two straps together. Sew beads to match the buttonholes you made for each Row.

Note: You might have noticed that my vest is a little lopsided as I have inadvertently sewed the beads one row off from the corresponding buttonholes. But, I liked the way it looked so I did not fix it anymore.

Component 3: Short Shorts

Note: Unlike the original Barbie Short Shorts, I have designed this pair of shorts to have snaps at the back. This is to ensure that the piece will fit well and not fall off her narrower hips (compared to Barbie).

Starting at the waist:

Row 1: With B, ch 33, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (32)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 5 sc, inc, sc in the next 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 5 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (36)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (36)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 7 sc, inc, sc in the next 6 sc, inc, sc in the next 7 sc, inc, sc in the last 6 sc, turn. (40)

Row 5: Repeat Row 3. (40)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in the first 7 sc, inc, sc in the next 7 sc, inc, sc in the next 8 sc, inc, sc in the next 7 sc, inc, sc in the next 7 sc, turn. (44)

Round 7: Ch 1, join the two ends together and working through both thicknesses, sc in the first sc as well as the 2nd to the last sc of Row 6, sc in the next sc as well as the last sc of Row 6, sc in the remaining sc around, join with a sl st to the first sc, turn. (42)

Here is what the shorts should look like after this Round:

This is how this Round should look like. The two sides meet together to form tabs where you can sew on your snaps later. | Source

Round 11: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join, do not turn your work yet. Ch 6, sk21 sc, join on the next sc (or at the halfway point), turn.

First leg hole:

Round 12: Ch 1, sc in each ch and in each sc around, join, turn. (27)

Rounds 13-14: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join, turn. (27)

Fasten off.

Second leg hole:

Round 12: Attach thread in any sc or ch on the other leg hole, ch 1, sc in each ch and sc around, join, turn. (27)

Note: I try to place my attached thread in a conspicuous spot so the seam will not be visible once worn on the doll.

Rounds 13-14: Same as first leg hole.

Sew in a snap at the top of each tab to close the shorts.

Component 4: Convertible Capelet / Skirt

Pullip Convertible Capelet | Source

Note: This piece is designed to be convertible and closed together using a drawstring mechanism. It can be used as a capelet for when Pullip is performing magic tricks and used as a skirt for when she is done with her performance.

Ties:

With B, ch 80 to form the ties. Add more chains if you want the ties to be longer than shown in the photo.

Starting from the top:

Row 1: With A, ch 35, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (34)

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. (34)

Row 5: Fold your work crosswise, place the long chain you made using B inside. Working through both thicknesses, sc in each ch and sc across to enclose the tie inside the cape. Here are some photos to further explain this Row:

After placing the tie in the middle of the cape, insert hook through both thickness and sc over the folded work to close the opening. | Source

After working some sc's, you can see that the tie is effectively trapped inside the collar / waistband. | Source

Note: This method of forming a drawstring follows the basic method used in sewing. It helps form a structured collar for the capelet and a thicker waistband for the skirt.

Row 6: Ch 1, (sc in the next st, dc in the same st), repeat across, turn. (68)

Rows 7-11: Ch 1, (sc in the next st, dc in the next st), repeat across, turn. (68)

Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Optional: You can make the convertible cape / skirt longer by adding more rows.