Having issues with brightness flickering....light, dark, light, dark, light, dark....about a 8-10 second interval. I've shut off as many filters and options as possible.....still there. Reset to factory defaults and its still there. Fios STB fed into the rear input of an Oppo BDP-103, the out to the TV over a 25ft HDMI. It does this on Fios or just the Oppo menu itself too.

Any ideas? Given the way the system is set up, its not easy to just start swapping cables or components to isolate. IIRC, it does it on SEN as well which would all but eliminate everything but the TV. The room is in the basement with a blacked out window....lighting is well controlled.

Having issues with brightness flickering....light, dark, light, dark, light, dark....about a 8-10 second interval. I've shut off as many filters and options as possible.....still there. Reset to factory defaults and its still there. Fios STB fed into the rear input of an Oppo BDP-103, the out to the TV over a 25ft HDMI. It does this on Fios or just the Oppo menu itself too.

Any ideas? Given the way the system is set up, its not easy to just start swapping cables or components to isolate. IIRC, it does it on SEN as well which would all but eliminate everything but the TV. The room is in the basement with a blacked out window....lighting is well controlled.

Settings - Eco - light sensor. Turn it off

Your show is changing angles back and for so it emits a brighter or darker image. The light sensor will readjust your tv brightness constantly to match the tv surrounding light sensor. The tv brightness effects this sensor in a dim/ dark room

I have a HDMI running from the TV to the Receiver, am i doing something wrong? no sound when playing netflix

If you look in the back there are multiple HDMI ports. You have to use the one that says HDMI/ARC. Then your Receiver also has to support ARC function.

It might be easier to use the optical out from the TV to Receiver.

Make sure to use a 1.4 compliant cable too. By the way, receivers piss me off. There's no reason that I can see that if you had the correct cable that they couldn't auto-detect the presence of an ARC handshaking going on and at least light up an LED saying "hey! The TV's trying to send me something" (or simply allow you to auto-switch to it). The other thing is that receiver implementations of ARC are supposedly getting better, but so far I've heard a lot of anecdotal angst about their flakiness.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

Audio Return Channel is a feature built into the latest versions of HDMI (1.4, and presumably future versions).

I think the problem is this: the HDMI specification (not the cable, but the handshaking/line discipline) is 1.4. For a cable to be HDMI compliant (at any given year), it has to support the most current specification(?) Dunno.

Shop for Features, not HDMI Versions

Some people have the mistaken idea that they should be shopping for a particular version of the HDMI Specification, for example, HDMI 1.4. This has never been true. Instead, you should shop for the specific features you want, and make sure that those features are supported in all the HDMI devices you will be using.

For instance, if you want to enjoy 3D video, you need to make sure that both the TV and the source device (for instance, a game console or disc player) support 3D. If you plan to route the signal through an AV receiver, it also needs to support 3D video.

This is also true for video resolution. Your 1080p TV will only display at 1080p if it is connected to a 1080p source device, such as a Blu-ray player or Set-top box.

However, if the source device outputs at a maximum of 720p, the TV will display 720p video when that device is selected.

Other advanced features that need to be supported on both ends of the HDMI link include 120Hz refresh rates, Deep Color, x.v.Color, and Ethernet connectivity. These capabilities are all optional implementations for the manufacturer, so check before you buy.

Choose the Right HDMI Cable for the Job

Selecting the right HDMI cable depends on two things: the level of video resolution you intend to support, and whether or not you want Ethernet connectivity. Genuine HDMI cables are clearly labeled to make this process easy:

Built for most home applications, the Standard HDMI Cable can reliably transmit 1080i or 720p video.

When it comes to HDMI cables, just buy a "certified high speed" and you're good without question.

Unless it's expensive. In which case, always try the $9 or less cable first (no matter what it's called) and in 99% of the time it'll be 100% perfect forever.

About the HDMI gang's trademark rules: I understand them, but from an engineering perspective, I'm irked by it. Even at 2.0 they want you to be able to buy a brand new cable rated for 1080i max. But that's just generalized @#$%tardary.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

About the HDMI gang's trademark rules: I understand them, but from an engineering perspective, I'm irked by it. Even at 2.0 they want you to be able to buy a brand new cable rated for 1080i max. But that's just generalized @#$%tardary.

About the HDMI gang's trademark rules: I understand them, but from an engineering perspective, I'm irked by it. Even at 2.0 they want you to be able to buy a brand new cable rated for 1080i max. But that's just generalized @#$%tardary.

I understand it just fine. That's actually what I was saying. If you look at the product offerings from their page, they have it broken down into various categories based upon ability. This means that regardless as to what the top-end may be, you still have the ability to buy a cable rated for only 1080i. That's the way the world tends to work with cables, but it didn't need to be compartmentalized like that for HDMI. In fact, in 2012 when they forced vendors to yank the compliance number off the product, all it did was increase the likelihood of "help it doesn't work" posts. I really believe that instead of opaque references to "high speed" there were a single number (like oh, 1.freaking4), then it'd be a lot simpler to understand. Your Amp says "1.4", your TV says "1.4", you get a 1.4 cables. Doesn't matter which subset of 1.4 you use, it's compressed to a single metric.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

I'm using the first of those cables. I have been trying out BR little by little as well, but if you stick to monoprice and mediabridge, you'll do ok.

If you're using a short cable, $9 is the point where I suggest you scrutinize what it is you're looking for and getting.

A long time ago I posted a link to all the hysterical reviews on the BB website for the $1099 1m HDMI cable from AudioQuest. (No joke). One guy was talking about how he's no longer getting just 1's and 0's, but some 2's and even some 3's. Another guy said it made his wife look better.

I actually ask a BB employee if they actually sold any of those cables in the store, and he was "oh yeah!" but as if it were for a good reason and that people actually needed it.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

I have bought three different 60" R550 sets and all of them have same blob issue and they are worse on each unit.I decided not to keep the unit and have returned, Otherwise I loved this TV. I hope this helps.

I have bought three different 60" R550 sets and all of them have same blob issue and they are worse on each unit.I decided not to keep the unit and have returned, Otherwise I loved this TV. I hope this helps.

Yep. Thems the blobs. :( I'm sorry you had to put up with that. This is very un-Sony like in my opinion.

If you can afford it, and if you can "deal" with active-3D, consider the KDL-65W850A. Currently $2700. If I didn't hate active-3D, I would consider trading up to it myself.

You might also look at the panasonic LCD lineup.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

I have bought three different 60" R550 sets and all of them have same blob issue and they are worse on each unit.I decided not to keep the unit and have returned, Otherwise I loved this TV. I hope this helps.

I'm not surprised that all 3 had the blob effect if you bought them all from the same store as they all probably came from the same batch at the factory, it would be interesting to see 3 60" samples from 3 different retailers.

I have bought three different 60" R550 sets and all of them have same blob issue and they are worse on each unit.I decided not to keep the unit and have returned, Otherwise I loved this TV. I hope this helps.

I'm not surprised that all 3 had the blob effect if you bought them all from the same store as they all probably came from the same batch at the factory, it would be interesting to see 3 60" samples from 3 different retailers.

Yeah, this is one TV I'd suggest getting from a supplier that pushes a *ton* of them (to keep the hardware revisions increasing over time, and to keep shuffling up the "panel lottery"). My 1st was from Amazon. Returned. My 2nd was from Amazon. Kept. No blobs.

Thought #AYB: If you choose to buy the very brightest of TVs, are you nitpicking?

Here's my update. After shipping back two 50r550a TVs for excessive Dirty Screen Effect, I was offered a 55w802a for no extra charge. I just received it and I love it. There is no excessive DSE at all. For some reason, GTA V I could see the DSE the most on the 550a, must be the color pallet. Playing it now on the 802, I can see some light and dark streaks here and there, you know it's not perfect, but very hard to see, and I'm really looking for it.

There is also no excessive backlight bleed at all, compared to the 550a. Still have to consider room luminance and brightness settings, but when set correctly the blacks are great.

I liked the 550a picture overall, minus the DSE (especially) and flashlighting (just a little), but the 802a is absolutely stunning IMO. I even get to keep one 50" 550a, but I have no room for it, and I'd be embarrassed trying to sell it the DSE is so bad.

I would echo tgm1024's advice, don't tolerate poor quality TVs. Make sure you hound Sony until they make it right for you. A $900 TV isn't cheap, and you shouldn't have to expect excessive flaws.

And thanks to tgm1024 for starting and maintaining this thread, and for everyone's contribution, it's been a tremendous help through this whole inconvenient process.

Here's my update. After shipping back two 50r550a TVs for excessive Dirty Screen Effect, I was offered a 55w802a for no extra charge. I just received it and I love it. There is no excessive DSE at all. For some reason, GTA V I could see the DSE the most on the 550a, must be the color pallet. Playing it now on the 802, I can see some light and dark streaks here and there, you know it's not perfect, but very hard to see, and I'm really looking for it.

There is also no excessive backlight bleed at all, compared to the 550a. Still have to consider room luminance and brightness settings, but when set correctly the blacks are great.

I liked the 550a picture overall, minus the DSE (especially) and flashlighting (just a little), but the 802a is absolutely stunning IMO. I even get to keep one 50" 550a, but I have no room for it, and I'd be embarrassed trying to sell it the DSE is so bad.

I would echo tgm1024's advice, don't tolerate poor quality TVs. Make sure you hound Sony until they make it right for you. A $900 TV isn't cheap, and you shouldn't have to expect excessive flaws.

And thanks to tgm1024 for starting and maintaining this thread, and for everyone's contribution, it's been a tremendous help through this whole inconvenient process.

I got a 60" R550 3 weeks ago, almost closing in on 30 day for exchange. Everything else is excellent, no clouding on the black screens... so I was pretty happy till I read the forms and saw comments on BLOBS

is this what you call BLOBS?

Should I bother returning?

It's a giant hassle for me to move, because I live alone :( and I have to pay someone to come help me lift it back....

I've read through teh forms and it seems like alot of them have blobs... so i'm wondering if i should even bother... I lost some of the packaging so I can't return... it's exchange or... just keep this one