I'm very detail oriented and will follow instructions to the letter. This printer's instructions certainly has a lot of areas that need additional steps and some more clarity. I was asked to offer my detailed feedback on how to make it better, so I did. It's nice that they are open to that.

Once the printer is built, there are no Setup Instructions. (Although they say to refer to them for next part of the build!)

You're left to ask questions about things that should be in documentation Stepper driver voltages? I mean, the print bed weighs 12 pounds and lifted by one stepper...so clearly, us builders wondered how that would work out!

The printer uses ethernet cables to communicate back to the controller. As it turns out, that's a very noisy way to do things. More on that later!

The auto bed leveling probe is an unknown device. No calibration knob on it so, you really have no idea how to set it up. It's vastly different than the EZABL setups I have done. Some clarity on setting that device up would be nice and it's sensitivity.

Like all my kits, I seem to spend a fair amount of time trying to make sure things are square/lined up all thought the build. But, if you have ever built things with aluminum extrusions and t-nuts, you know those can wander one you as you tighten them up. I know it would have cost more...but to have something pre drilled/tapped and bolted together would've been nice! (Of course, assuming the manufacturer used a great jig to ensure accuracy)

At this point it's up and working. At the suggestion of other builders, I have opted to replace the sensor with a BL Touch. However, due to the electronic noise, I have to direct wire the motor, getting it off that ethernet jack and add some capacitors to soften out the noise. After this, my BL Touch should probe without failing randomly.

Is it frustrating? A bit.
Is it fun to learn marlin like this? I suppose!
But in hindsight, a printer that can print this volume (720 x 350 x 400) would cost thousands pre assembled.
My hope is after a few more tweaks, it can print large stuff very nicely. I may replace the MKS 1.4 with a Smoothie or Duet board...but small steps!

The Max Stepper motor driver current is easily calculated. then Multiply that by 80% will give you a real good starting point.
Although 12 pounds is heavy for a single stepper motor, What is the model number of this stepper Motor in question?

The printer uses Ethernet cables to communicate back to the controller. As it turns out, that's a very noisy way to do things. More on that later!

It seems a lot of new designs are trying to use a standard Ethernet cable, this might be OK if they would choose a higher quality cable.
Using Cat 5E is not the Answer.

Category 7 cable, more commonly known as a CAT-7 cable, is used for the cabling infrastructure of Gigabit Ethernet.
Category 7 cable offers performance of up to 600MHz. Category 7 cable is recommend when wiring a smart home!

Roberts_Clif, well, besides the 3D printing of toys and ship-models, I also write papers and essays. Writing custom paper or custom essay (I mean qualified) - may help writer to earn some more money. Also it helps you to improve yourself intellectually, of course. Once I've tried writing 2.5 years ago - for now it is really hard to stop

Last edited by davidd65 on April 24th, 2019, 11:45 am, edited 2 times in total.

How is a newbie supposed to have an inkling of a clue on the science of stepper driver voltage? I mean, do you know the atomic weight of how much water to use to prepare your coffee each morning? I mean, your response is just a bit flip. Like "Everyone" should know stepper driver current dynamics??

When you buy a printer kit, you go in with the assumption that the manufacturer provides all the detailed steps and settings you need to craft a complete machine. Leaving out those precise details that prevent that is inexcusable. The market is too competitive to slack on something so basic.

The printer uses ethernet cables to communicate back to the controller. As it turns out, that's a very noisy way to do things. More on that later!

I wonder if they are using solid core or stranded wire? You can tell by how stiff the wires are. I read last night in the instructions for my digital dash that I am having installed in my truck not to use solid core wire as it tends to generate a lot of electrical noise; use stranded instead. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I assume there is merit to that.

Glad you enjoyed the assembly and tuning of that printer. After building and tuning my 3DP-17, I wouldn't have the time or patience to build yours. As it is, I barely use my printers currently. Just too busy (next free weekend is looking like June).

Between working for a startup as Senior DevOps Engineer and dealing with medical issues (HCM), I rarely get time to do much printing. I mostly monitor this and other forums in the morning between shower and getting dressed for work (air dry). I really need to slow down soon, just haven't figured out how.

Currently using Big Hicci (Hictop CR-10S) to print a cable chain for Little Hicci (Hictop 3DP-17). Now that it is going, I need to drill some holes in the basement to reroute my satellite cable for the livingroom, then rewire the entertainment center, run a car load of stuff to Goodwill, take the wife to brunch & go for a scenic drive (Mother's Day), shopping, etc.

You've been a busy guy!
HCM...cardiac? How do they treat that? Doesn't sound like a lot of fun

I'm still dialing in my printers. Sometimes I am super energetic about making all these mods and tweaks...getting them to work much better. And there are some days I adore the Ultimaker for it's plug the SD Card in and go.

Took a break from YouTube so I could clean up and reorganize the shop (basement). So many printers, so many accessories, filament...I had to get things sorted out so I had room to build, upgrade and work! Moved things around, used the floor scrubber/washing machine to wash away 10 years worth of grime and making good progress. The desk is cleared off, the printers are on some new shelving units and I can work!

The FT-6 was a tough build, due to the lack of setup guidance that the documentation sort of left out. It's using a BL Touch instead of the stock sensor and for now, it still has the stock 2 into 1 hotend/nozzle and dual extruders. I really want to go direct drive but we will see what options the budget allows!

Sold my FT5 to a friend, his first printer. I gave him all the advice I could, but he still bought it .
He is printing a Storm-trooper helmet with it, it's almost done, he's done a good job of it.
Work is crazy at the moment but I still look at the new posts here.
When I have more time, after relative have finished visiting, I live in Spain now, I'll have more time to start printing again.
I have a project I want to start so hopefully I'll be able to start designing it a bit at a time.