Back in 2010, I passed by the Incredible Hulk as a part of the Sierra Challenge(http://www.snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2005/wsj.htm nice article by Michael Ybarra RIP). I did not rock climb much back than, and seeing climbers half way up this magnificent rock face made me a bit dizzy. "They must be professionals," I thought.

Hulk!!

Credit: Vitaliy M.

After the challenge was over I felt reasonably fit (I completed all 10 challenge peaks topped with another 7 bonus peaks in 10 days), and slowly shifted towards rock climbing. Peak bagging did not seem challenging to me any longer. Through second part of 2011 I got out to climb rock often. Bryan and I developed a good partnership and attempted to climb Beeline on the Hulk in the late September.

Looks small huh? It isn't!

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Loving the granite

Credit: Vitaliy M.

It was the longest and most sustained route we attempted. Although we would push ourselves hard on that, it seemed possible. On the other hand Red Dihedral looked way too sustained, long, and intimidating. Combination of a late start, getting off route, a coming thunderstorm, and fear of a long route shut us down. We were simply not ready.

Meadow on the approach

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Red Dihedral above

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Although not naturally gifted with incredible strength and finesse, my new passion for rock helped me improve my skills. Climbing with better people more often, and going after climbs that seemed over our head gradually taught Bryan and I a few lessons. It was a first weekend of 2012 and we had a re-match with the Hulk. We knew Beeline would not be too challenging, so we bumped our aim to Red Dihedral-"One of the best 5.10s in Sierra."
Since Bryan was able to get off from work early on Friday, and we had a few friends camping up there, we decided to hike in on Friday as well. We left the trail-head at 5pm and were setting up our tent around 7. Just a few hours of walking to get a view of an awesome sunset.

Sunrise over Outguard spire etc

Credit: Vitaliy M.

After eating and chatting with our friends (Cristiano and Brian) we went to sleep a bit early to get sufficient rest for the 'big day.'

glow on Red Dihedral

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Start of the route is easy to locate. It is a exposed 3rd class ramp which trends left, and than another ramp leads you towards a giant dihedral-Red Dihedral pitch. From the bottom this dihedral looks overhanging.

Bryan starting up pitch 2. He linked it with 3rd pitch as well.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

I took the first 5.8 pitch, which was a good warm up, but not as easy for a 5.8 move. Bryan linked the next two 5.9 pitches like a pro, and we were at the base of the Red Dihedral in no time.

Cheburashka in the Red Dihedral

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Although my hardest leads were all 5.10a before, I decided to push myself and took the next pitch. Seemed like a good occasion for a first 10b lead. RD featured a tight (for my hand size) hand crack in a beautiful corner and even required a few ring locks. Although a friend told me it features a good amount of rests like the Hospital Corner at Lovers Leap, I figured that to be B/S! The exiting moves (stemming in a flare) were fairly insecure without the bomber hand crack I followed up. But after reaching the bomber finger lock and a few face moves, I was home safe. It felt good.

Leading Red Dihedral-the only good rest stem I found

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Bryan following RD pitch

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Before the climb Bryan requested the 10a hand crack pitch if I get the Red Dihedral. He linked the next two pitches in one, which set me up for another glorious pitch. I 'forgot' that the next pitch features the crack (sorry Bryan :) ) and went for it. Quality of climbing on this pitch was superb, but the hand crack was SUPER thin for my hands. I mostly protected it with .5 and .75 pieces, and that is NOT my happy size! After a lot of grunting and a good amount of over protecting I got to the top of it clean anyway.

10a crack ahead

Credit: Vitaliy M.

lookind down the 10a crack (thin hands for me)

Credit: Vitaliy M.

From here Bryan linked another two pitches on one of his leads and we were up through more blocky and not too sustained climbing. Although there was a thin crack with a fixed red Alien that was VERY tough, rest of the climbing was much less sustained. Also, it is better to avoid going directly up the 'shattered pillar,' it is full of death blocks.

DON'T GO THIS WAY

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Views

Credit: Vitaliy M.

After we finished the route and did the loose 3rd class across the ledge, we had another two pitches to go. These pitches were not the reason why we came to climb the Hulk, but birth canal was an interesting part we all heard about. Going through it, I was glad to be a few pounds lighter than in the mid 2011 (or 20 lbs to be exact).

Not sure why am I laughing...this pitch is not fun

Credit: Vitaliy M.

birth canal

Credit: Vitaliy M.

We scrambled to the summit and waited for our friends to join us. While waiting, Cheburashka captured the Hulk ball and I went through most of the summit registers.

Cheburashka says Happy Birthday!

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Saw numerous entries from all kinds of pro climbers, and logs of impressive ascents by non pros. It was a great experience without the usual wind and thunderstorms that Bridgeport attracts oh so well.

Pretty cool

Credit: Vitaliy M.

I saw this on a youtube video!

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Hulk ball

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Many STers in there too!

Familiar dude!

Credit: Vitaliy M.

3 routes in a day?! wow awesome.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

LOL

Credit: Vitaliy M.

After our friends joined 'the party' we took a few photos, signed our topo, and descended. Turned out my friend Hamik did the whole route (aside from the RD pitch) in his approach shoes. Fantastic.
Top ramen in camp did not sound as good as Burgers in Bridgeport, so we decided to hike out. We had plenty of daylight to make it back to the car without being required to use our headlamps.

Awesome job! Gotta love it when you snake all the glory pitches. "Sorrrryyyy duuudde! but I'm just going to KEEP CLIMBING! Is that OoKK?! What did you say?! I can't hear you! Oh well, we can talk about it at the NEXT BELAY!!! " Hahaha. Gotta love that one. ;)

Jeez, Vitaliy, are you going to climb with me anymore now that Donini wants to share a rope with you? ;-) It was great to hang out with you (however briefly) on the summit, and contrary to my loud, "hurry the F*#K up," you kicked ass on the dihedral pitch. Good job conning Bryan out of the killer splitter pitch--I wish I knew to look for it!

Hamik, THAT IS some stiff competition. : ) jk We all should climb together when we go to Indian Creek again, or if Jim is around Sierra. A 4 day trip into Feather/Merriam area would be awesome, or some kind of a ridge traverse, or lot's of other stuff.

Yeah, Vitaliy, I'm back! But you're gettin up stuff while I flail in defeat. You're ticking off my dream routes like its a freakin' shopping list. Great write up man. You guys are killin' it out there. Great photos and words, as per usual. You guys and Adam and I need to hook up for some backcountry action this fall. We're doin Matthes Crest in Aug/Sept. You guys been up there yet?

Great stuff! Love the summit register TR. Brings back memories Yeah, we just had a topo from Dave Nettle at the time that called the route 5.10. Afterward I asked Peter Croft "Man, that is some HARD 5.10!" And Croft said "Yeah, more like harder 5.11." So I now add plus .1 to an original hand drawn Nettle topo. Peter also said I was not off to call the Red Dihedral 5.10b instead of 5.9 which a lot of people called it. Peter is always good for an honest rating. When you are as bad ass as he is, no need to sandbag anymore.

I enjoyed TR and pix a lot, especially the summit register pages!
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