Hey guys question for anyone replaced servos on my 400 because of crash i cant seem to get the arms adjusted the front arm bottoms out and hits the wires especialy in stunt mode and if i raise all the arms one notch the rears top out and change pitch at full forward and back especialy in stunt,no servo trim to adjust on 2603 im a newb anyideas would be apreciated THANX.Oh the servos are stock.

Hey guys question for anyone replaced servos on my 400 because of crash i cant seem to get the arms adjusted the front arm bottoms out and hits the wires especialy in stunt mode and if i raise all the arms one notch the rears top out and change pitch at full forward and back especialy in stunt,no servo trim to adjust on 2603 im a newb anyideas would be apreciated THANX.Oh the servos are stock.

First off, get metal geared servos.

It sounds like you did not center your servos, with the gyro off, before putting your arms on.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

After you have your servo arms as close to 90 as you can, check to make sure yout swash is level. If not adjust the links between the servos and swash to get it level. If your using the stock servos, arms, and ball links, it should be level.

(the rest of this info is to properly set up your system, which may not have been done at the factory)

Getting your set up right is very important, yet offten overlooked by eager begginers, resulting in bad things...

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode. (the stock blade pitch setting are in the manual)

When your servos are centered, the swash should be at the half way point between the stabalizer and the collar at top of the frame. The horizontal link on your stabalizer should be flat. You should then adjust your plt, making sure the servo arms do not travel too far up or down. Then take your blades off, and plug the main motor only in, too check if the swash and stabalizer arms are hitting at full throttle and full cyclic. I like to make sure i get good cyclic movement at both 0% and 100% throttle. If there is no binding, rubbing, or hitting, unplug your motor and then check and set your pitches again.

I know it sounds like alot of fun, but you will be able to fly knowing that your set up will not cause a fatal crash.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode.

On the rx you will see the two little switches on the top. One is to reverse the pitch (leave that where it is), the other one is to turn on/off the gyro. Use that little black screwdriver looking thing that came with the heli to flip that switch to the off position. Both switches will then be in the off position.

Your servo arms should be a bit below 90 degrees. Then flip you flight mode switch to the 1 or idel up position. Your arms should now move to a 90 degree angle. You have now centered your servos. Your blades should have 0 pitch.

If not, remove the servo arms and try to get them as close to 90 as you can. If you have to, its better to have them slightly down, and not up.

After you have your servo arms as close to 90 as you can, check to make sure yout swash is level. If not adjust the links between the servos and swash to get it level. If your using the stock servos, arms, and ball links, it should be level.

(the rest of this info is to properly set up your system, which may not have been done at the factory)

Getting your set up right is very important, yet offten overlooked by eager begginers, resulting in bad things...

You may have to adjust your PIT (pitch curve) and PLT (pitch travel) to get everything to line up. You should start this check with your pit at 0%, and your plt at 100%. Then using a pitch guage, set up your pitch curves for stunt and normal mode. (the stock blade pitch setting are in the manual)

When your servos are centered, the swash should be at the half way point between the stabalizer and the collar at top of the frame. The horizontal link on your stabalizer should be flat. You should then adjust your plt, making sure the servo arms do not travel too far up or down. Then take your blades off, and plug the main motor only in, too check if the swash and stabalizer arms are hitting at full throttle and full cyclic. I like to make sure i get good cyclic movement at both 0% and 100% throttle. If there is no binding, rubbing, or hitting, unplug your motor and then check and set your pitches again.

I know it sounds like alot of fun, but you will be able to fly knowing that your set up will not cause a fatal crash.

I have the brushless RTF-HELI kit on this heli and I'm flying a lot of 3D. I am losing a lot of head speed on hard throttle moves (stunt mode, high rates). Is there any reason to believe the brushless motor in the kit is undersized for hard 3D flying? I am using stock blades, so I don't think it is "too much blade". I want to fly inverted and hover down near ground, but the head speed just drops off too much to make me comfortable. Any thoughts?

I have the brushless RTF-HELI kit on this heli and I'm flying a lot of 3D. I am losing a lot of head speed on hard throttle moves (stunt mode, high rates). Is there any reason to believe the brushless motor in the kit is undersized for hard 3D flying? I am using stock blades, so I don't think it is "too much blade". I want to fly inverted and hover down near ground, but the head speed just drops off too much to make me comfortable. Any thoughts?

I had/have this problem with my rtf brushless system as well. After 86% throttle, the power drops. Wasp had the technical description of whats really happening. I just set 85% as my max throttle level on my tx. I think, using the rtf set up as a template, we need to try some bigger esc's and motors if you want real 3D head speed. Just remember to loctite.

Yeah thanks for trying but that sw on the rx switches between what they call normal flight or balance flight mode to turn the gyro off looks to be in the tx go to rudmix gyro in the tx and turn v1 knob to - until light on rx goes off if that is not correct sorry,but thats what i got out of the manual today after reading it 10 times.

Turning the gyro off/on with the tx is the hard way, I was trying to keep it simple for you. Both ways will turn off gyro, just remember to turn it on after you've done your set-up. With the switch, you can see right away the status of your gyro and not have to flip through the tx settings. Alot of guys make the mistake of trying to fly after making adjustments and forget to turn the gyro back to the on or work position.

Turning the gyro off/on with the tx is the hard way, I was trying to keep it simple for you. Both ways will turn off gyro, just remember to turn it on after you've done your set-up. With the switch, you can see right away the status of your gyro and not have to flip through the tx settings. Alot of guys make the mistake of trying to fly after making adjustments and forget to turn the gyro back to the on or work position.

Good luck,

Thanx for explaining,has anyone tried flying on sw set to wk versus adj.
What do u think gyro should be set at?Can anyone tell me where a vid of adjusting blade pitch whould be or how to do it. THANX