I need to change my serpentine belt. Does anybody have a how to, step by step process on how I can do this? It would be much appreciated.

No step by step needed. Put a socket on the tensioner and pull. Take belt off. Follow diagram under hood to route new belt. Pull tensioner and put belt over it. Sould only take 10 minutes. Might want to do the AC belt too since it is behind the serpentine

Thank you, oddly enough, my truck does not have a diagram under the hood. Went to Dayco the belt maker, and found the diagram. then I turned over the cardboard sleeve the belt is purchased in, and there was the diagram.
Thanks for the info on the AC belt. Thats what makes this website so valuable. I just changed my left front wheel bearing with a how to step by step guide.
Thanks,
Frank

No step by step needed. Put a socket on the tensioner and pull. Take belt off. Follow diagram under hood to route new belt. Pull tensioner and put belt over it. Sould only take 10 minutes. Might want to do the AC belt too since it is behind the serpentine

Have you ever looked under the hood of an LBZ or at the belt specifically? Only one belt, not a separate one for the AC. And its going to take more then 10 min if its some one's first time due to the stupid fan guard GM put on there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRN

Thank you, oddly enough, my truck does not have a diagram under the hood. Went to Dayco the belt maker, and found the diagram. then I turned over the cardboard sleeve the belt is purchased in, and there was the diagram.
Thanks for the info on the AC belt. Thats what makes this website so valuable. I just changed my left front wheel bearing with a how to step by step guide.
Thanks,
Frank

If you have the belt routing you should be fine. You will have to remove the top bolt on the fan guard that is connected to the oil fill tube. After doing that you should be able to slide the guard forward enough to put a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet on the tensioner to loosen the belt. Get it out the best way you can then put the new one back on.

Good luck. I took that guard off my truck completely when I changed my water pump, but doing so requires you take the fan off the fan pulley.

I looked at the fan shroud/protector and thought it would make it alot easier if this could be removed. Also, what about the plastic guard on the bottom? And even the skid plate? Do they need to come off too?

Have you ever looked under the hood of an LBZ or at the belt specifically? Only one belt, not a separate one for the AC. And its going to take more then 10 min if its some one's first time due to the stupid fan guard GM put on there.

If you have the belt routing you should be fine. You will have to remove the top bolt on the fan guard that is connected to the oil fill tube. After doing that you should be able to slide the guard forward enough to put a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet on the tensioner to loosen the belt. Get it out the best way you can then put the new one back on.

Good luck. I took that guard off my truck completely when I changed my water pump, but doing so requires you take the fan off the fan pulley.

Well I got the belt changed! Yes, being my first time, it took me hours. I took the whole tensioner right off the truck. Took the black guard off the bottom near the skid plate just so I could be sure I had it lined up correctly. If it was not for my nieghbor, I would still be there saying a few choice words! My Chiltons manual does not mention the square hole where you put the 1/2" breaker bar. That's what I meant by a step by step guide. It's the little things that could be posted for the non mechanic like me. I love being able to do some work on my truck, and I am so willing to learn. I made a promise to myself when I bought my LBZ, that i was going to keep it 10+ years. So anything I can learn to do myself, I figure I am ahead of the game. Besides, the new LML's sure do look nice, but not at 55-60K. What I paid for my LBZ, is what the new 1500 crew cabs are priced at, in a gasser. It's getting too rich for my blood. I would rather keep mine and put Mods on it!

I see you got it done already but the routing diagram is in the engine manual if you have it. They don't put the sticker on the shroud anymore, that extra .10 cents for the decal was killing GM I guess. It's not the easiest belt to change but not the worst job either, but I would'nt want to do it on the side of the road somewhere. I took the top black plastic cover (not the fan shroud) off and the lower plastic splash guard off, seemed to make it easier. The 1/2 drive square on the tensioner is tough to get on but I was able to get on it with a standard breaker bar. I put a gatorback belt on a couple years ago, seems to be a better quality belt and has held up well.

4. Return to service department, hand cashier credit card. Notice truck has been vacuumed and washed.

No back pain, scrapes or cuts (I rate jobs by number of Band-Aids required) no easy-outs, Heli-coils, welding, numerous trips to parts house for right sized hose clamps, things that were forgotten or concrete cleaner. With age comes wisdom and callouses.

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