Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Specs

Using a twin motor 4wd system, the Outlander PHEV provides superior response by pairing an all-new 4wd integrated vehicle dynamic control system with the instant high torque of an electric motor.

The battery pack is a 12kWh lithium ion battery consisting of 80 cells mounted in series and enclosed in a secure frame.

The motors are a smaller, lighter and higher output version of the permanent magnet synchronous motor used in the i-MiEV and are located in the front and rear. Each motor has an output of 60kW and maximum combined torque of 230Nm.

The gasoline engine functions solely as a generator in series hybrid mode and provides drive power in parallel mode. It is a 2.0 liter inline 4-cylinder engine with variable timing on the intake valves.

The Outlander PHEV has extra soundproofing in order to ensure the vehicle remains as quiet as possible in EV Drive Mode, even when the gasoline engine is in use.

With 5 passenger seating, and lots of cargo space, the Mitsubishi Outlander plug-in hybrid works great for commuting and for weekend trips with the family.

Outlander PHEV Electric Range

The all electric range of the Outlander PHEV is around 37 miles when tested on the Japanese test cycle which is more lenient than the US test.

Mitsubishi’s UK website states the electric range is up to 34 miles “without using petrol” and then the 2.0 litre petrol engine kicks in and provides up to 148 MPG combined.

Outlander PHEV Charging

The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV will feature a J1772 3.3kW charger as well as a CHAdeMO quick charger.

Using the j1772 charger hooked up to a 15A, 240V supply, the Outlander PHEV will be able to fully charge in 4 hours. Using the CHAdeMO charging standard, the Outlander plug-in hybrid can charge to 80% in 30 minutes.

The Outlander PHEV also comes with a 120V charging cord to use when you can only find a standard outlet, and should provide a full charge in around 8 -10 hours.

83 Responses to Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV Specs

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I’m having a discussion with someone as to what the combined power output is for the Outlander PHEV. I stated that the combined power output is 284 bhp and 385 lb-ft
of the 2 electric motors and the petrol engine, when all power is needed. The other person said this is not true. I know for active hybrids you can simply add the power of the electric engine and the petrol engine. How does it work for a (the) PHEV?

The Outlander PHEV has a 60 kW (~80 HP) electric motor both front and rear, so 160 horsepower in total. With the 89kW (~120 HP) internal combustion engine (ICE) total power would be 280 horsepower (210 kW). However, it’s unknown if all 3 motors can and will run at full power at the same time. In Parallel Hybrid mode, the ICE directly powers the front wheels, but the Outlander PHEV spec sheets don’t say whether or not the front electric motor is also powering the front wheels.

Another interesting tidbit is that the rear electric motor is rated at 144lb-ft of torque, while the front electric motor is rated at 101lb-ft of torque.

To answer Elmer’s question about power, although each electric engine is rated at over 60KW the total power these two electric motors can put out an any given moment is only 70KW and this is purely because the the amount of maximum draw that can be placed on the battery.

The hybrid system used by Toyota on the Prius and Auris hybrid cars uses a permanent energy recovery system. This means the battery is charged up under deceleration and/or braking, and should never need an external charge. Can the same be said for the PHEV? If not, then what you save in petrol will surely get spent on your increased electricity bill (!?)

Yes! The Outlander plug-in allows you to recharge the battery while slowing down (regenerative braking). It even allows you to select how much power you want to regenerate ie. How quickly you want to slow down

Yes it needs charging once you have used up the EV range, as the petrol engine will kick in to recharge the batteries. The average petrol SUV costs over £6 per gallon with just around 40 mpg. The PHEV uses just over £1 of electricity and gets up to 32 miles range.

Interesting. I’m looking into these as a company car. Could you run the PHEV purely in ‘hybrid’ mode and never charge it at the plug? Simply leave the kinetic regeneration process to top up the battery. Adding charging points at work or home wouldnt be an option but the BIK is the driving force for me.

Hi, after several months of Outlander PHEV ownership, and a 26 mile round trip to work…
1) Max electric only range 22miles (regardless of what the display may show) and nowhere near the claimed 32miles advertised

2) Full electric charge is always less than 10kWh and not 12kWh as advertised.

Net result not the ‘free travel to work’ i was banking on, and ive never used heating or A/C.

On longer motorway journeys its very speed dependant. Keep speed below 70 and I get 38mpg (consistent on several journeys)

The short answer is, no. You do not *need* to charge form the mains. You can continue to drive it like a regular hybrid.

However, if you do charge it, you get roughly 20-30 miles’ worth of driving at a cost significantly less than petrol.

Regenerative braking, and automatic switching between electric and petrol allows you to consume less fuel in stop-go traffic.

I use my car for work, during the week, with a reasonably long commute and no external charging at all, I get about 37mpg, measured by noting the exact amount of fuel put in from full-tank to full-tank vs. the exact number of miles driven, over the course of a year.

The whole point of a plug-in hybrid is to save fuel /CO2 emission on short trips by adding the battery to go some 35km pure electric (in real life reasonable economic driving). The non-plug-in hybrids will only go a short distance and at low speed before starting the combustion engine.

So you should compare the price of 12kWh of electricity (the battery capacity) to 2.1 liter petrol (using 35km battery range, comparing to a petrol use of 6.0 liters/100 km, or use whatever you think is reasonable for the car you want to compare with) In Norway the electricity cost is €0.68 while 2.1l petrol costs €3.22 🙂

I am trying to ascertain the exact cost to fully charge a flat battery if it was charged from my domestic mains supply.
So does anyone know how many Amperes is drawn from a standard 240 domestic mains supply to charge a flat battery, or how many Watts per hour is used?

Hi John, I’m looking for similar information. The best I can find is that it’s a 12kWhr battery. In that case to fully charge, from flat, it’ll require 12 kWhr. If your electricity supply costs £0.10 per kWhr it’ll cost £1.20 to charge. It matters not how long it’s on charge since the charging current drops off as the battery ‘fills’. Of course in reality the battery will seldom be fully flat thanks to regen’ braking etc. so this is a difficult to estimate.

Hi John
With a bit of research and I came up with this;
To work out how many kwh you are using you need to multiply drawn amps by voltage supply, in this case the cable supplied uses 10 amps from a 240v supply= 2400w. Then to get the kwh divide by 1000 = 2.4kwh.
Multiply this by the charge time, so 2.4kwh X 5.5 hours= 13.2kw total usage. To get get cost to charge from flat multiply 13.2kw by your electricity usage tariff charge. Mine approx 1kw costs 16.5p so 13.2 X 16.5p= 217.8p or £2.17 per charge.
hope this helps someone.
Ian

I will be getting a Mitsubishi Outlander GX3H in the next few months – I know it comes
with a domestic cable and charger – what other charging cables will I need to charge
from public charging points ?

Couple of questions I can’t get a straight answer out of the Mitsu sales guys on. Can anyone help (actual facts not speculation please?! Cheers!)

1) 4Wd. M tell me how coz there’sa motor driving the back wheels, all four wheels are (or can be) driven. Fine. But what it doesn’t explain anywhere is what happens if you get into a slippery situation. The back wheels are driven by a *single* motor so there must be a differential. As such, if one back wheel spins, it’ll take all the power just like any other car. Does the differential lock? and/or does a traction-control system stop the spinning wheel? Same question applies to the front of course, irrespective if the drive is coming from the engine or the motor.

2) And speaking of the front, does anyone know HOW the motor and engine are connected to the wheels so “parallel” drive can be enacted? I know how the Prius power-split device works but i’ve not heard that Toyota have licensed it to Mitsubishi. Anyone know what is used? And, again, what happens if one wheel spins?

OK, I’m aware this is too late to be of benefit to the original poster, but may be of value to others reading it. I own one, and a Hybrid Qualified Technician and run my business specialising in Hybrid Vehicles.

The traction control is designed to engage at speeds above 15km/h and is all but useless in off-road, low traction situations. The wheel speed is already excessive by the time it responds and it is a key frustration in my experience with this car. I suggest that MItsu could offer a field campaign to update firmware at nil cost to address this easily. Giving it different parameters when in 4WD Lock and increase the sensitivity could be one possible solution.

As for the transmission, it is very similar to the HSD aka Prius Trans, uses a planetary but has a hydraulic lock up clutch that engages at 70km/h and above unless maximum power is demanded, in which case it allows the motor ICE to rev higher. I think it employs a one way spragg clutch to allow the ICE to remain stationary when in EV mode. Don’t quote me on that last point, never seen one apart. They are an outsourced unit, supplied by an external company. They share many similarities with Toyota but have modular components, ie; generator and motor bolt onto the main housing instead of being internal as per Prius HSD. In effect it operates much the same and feels the same to drive with the exception of the lock up at 70km/h. This is an economy measure I feel, as the ICE sits at approx 2,500rpm at 100 km/h.

Hi even when I charge the car until the charger flashes (to indicate full charge), it only gives a reading of 26 miles available on the indicator on start up. This happens even though a message appears saying ‘charge complete’. When I first got it, the indicator would read 34 miles!! It’s not even a month old, and I’ve only done 780 miles!!! I alwYs ensure that the battery is run down before recharging as instructed by the mitsubishi salesman. Can anyone explain?

I have had my phv less than a year, in December I took it to the dealer saying it was not charging to 34 miles only 20 miles, they told me it was the way I was driving it. I have now worked out that it is only charging to 20 miles and because it thinks it is only charging to 20 miles it is not turning itself off so charging 24/7!! I wrote to HQ to say I want someone to collect the car and repair it as my electricity bill was £300 [a month] the last 6/7 months. They replied saying, it is the way it is being driven with air con on and so forth….but do let us know re your electricity when you work out what you have used. I have had no one contact me since! I will stop my finance payments until this car is fit for purpose. I have written to watch dog and auto express in which auto express have shown some interest in my story. If you have an issue write to both please.

Hi Andrew, that sounds like a hassle! One question though, if your Outlander PHEV is only charging to 20 miles, why would it keep pulling electricity causing your bill to be very high? What is it doing with the electricity if it isn’t putting it into the battery? It isn’t just disappearing into thin air, it doesn’t make sense.

Hi
I have bought a used 2014 car and need to know when to use the button in the middle isle which says (charge) and the second says (save) and if I want to use it only on electric mode what function should I use

My PHEV was put on the road 30th March at Davies of Narberth in West Wales. Within a month the charge distance was 25 miles, and now 4 months later it is consistently on or below 20 miles. I need to travel around 25 miles each day and the petrol cost is rising..
I have tried a slow trickle charge from the normal mains plug after complete discharge, and I have tried engine charging. Neither has been successful.
Any suggestions other than that I need a battery set change?

My Phev is only 3 weeks old and I am getting a reading of 22 miles per full charge, however, if I drive sensibly in economic mode on mainly A roads, keep my speed below 50mph and incorporate some regenerative breaking I can easily cover 35 miles in 100% EV mode. So despite the full charge only registering 22 miles of EV this proves that a lot more us achievable in reality. If I set off on a full charge registering the same 22 miles EV range and travel 17 miles to the motorway and then put my foot down to an average speed of 70mph, the overall EV only range does drop to about 26 miles including some regenerative breaking before the batteries drop to 1 cell and the engine starts to kick in and out.

HI Andrew here. I live in Saundersfoot and also bought a Mitsubishi PHEV from Davies Narberth. One thing I thought worth mentioning is that the mileage you can do on a full charge drops in the Winter when it is cold. You should get better mileage in the summer months. Im thinking you may know Adrian Phillips?

Not less, it takes 20 minutes to 80% and then slow charge for another 15-20 minutes to complete, not worth it if you are in a hurry. Speed of charge is dictated by battery size, the bigger the battery the fasted it can take charge, but also the more it takes to charge, in the end the time to 80% is almost the same whatever battery you have (unless is a special battery like Lithium Titanate that can take much higher currents, but it is more costly and heavier, so no car manufacturer uses it yet.)

It’s a very nice car, by why can’t Mitsu bring themselves to put some resources and lessons gained from this model into a new generation i-miev, or even an EV/PHEV version of the Mirage? An electric SUV isn’t exactly the last word in efficiency – even though I grant it does have an oddly specific niche in regional Australia where ground clearance is a big deal and charging infrastructure is poor-to-nonexistent.

The PHEV outlander is a great car for the right circumstances. The best hybrid by far for short journey, rural locations.
The electric mileage ‘fuel tank’ is a ‘learning’ display, based on the way you drive. Each full charge will give you the capability of approx 30-33 miles, but just like conventional fuel vehicles, a heavy right foot and a heavy use of heater, a/c, lights and hills will take a toll. Also do not lock the 4WD on.
I do a lot of short journeys, and recharge at home. You do not need to empty the batteries before charging. The batteries do not have charge memory!
The best result I have had, so far, is 600 miles, with half a tank of petrol, which is about 120 MPG. OK not the 148 MPG on the adverts, but I can live with that and what car can reproduce claimed MPG in the real world?

In answer to the questions on charge rates…

The cable for domestic 13 amp connection charges at 10 amps, (approx 2Kw per hour), takes about 5.5 hours from empty to full.
The charge cable into a 16/32 amp supply station, (can be installed at your home or workplace etc), will charge only at 16 amps, (approx 3Kw per hour) and takes about 4 hours.
Both systems can be connected and left overnight on charge, there is no harm or cost in doing this. As soon as the battery is fully charged, current draw from the supply falls to zero amps.

I got a new PHEV company car last week and love it so far. Can anyone advise how to keep windows demisted without using the electric heater and therefore draining the battery? My battery life seems good so far but when I filled it with petrol it only registered a range of 285miles for the full tank (39 litres filled in) which didn’t seem very high. I work that out to be about 29mpg for petrol which is half of what I got in an 8 year old Vectra. Can anyone help?

The idea is the car only uses the petrol as a back up to charge the batteries or extra power when right foot grows lead. I too questioned the fuel consumption on a run as running on petrol would seem less economic and not as green. This is a heavy vehicle and fuel will be used but the thinking is this should equal out with the town use on electric motors only. A full charge at home should cost around £2.17 approx for which you should get 30 miles or so providing you live on a flat surface with no fast getaways, definately no heaters or anything that uses electric draining batteries. Windows open and big coats to clear/ demist to get the best economy however if you work out that you can charge twice for the same as a gallon of fuel the around town is untouchable with anything else this size. No road tax or congestion charge are benefits as is company car tax so all adds up to save money.

Daniel, congratulations! Do you mean what sort of things should you watch for, or be careful of, like break-in procedures?
Have you joined the forum yet? It’s a great place to discuss stuff just like this: Outlander PHEV Forum

I have a PHEV had it since october last year, I live in Sheffield and I have some very steep hills to climb and that realy eats up the electric, but I can win the mileage back going down hill. I do a run to Meadowhall shopping centre a total of 7.5 miles, I set off with a full charge of 24 miles in the battery I can cover that distance and finish up with a 25 mile charge in the battery using the regen breaking, on the way back it realy chews up the power when I get home I am left with about 8 miles of charge left. I have found if I coast up to road junctions and use the regen I can win back some extra power also I coast up to traffic lights ect and win a little power back each time. So use your regen a little more often and get more miles.

Please can someone tell me how many kwh it takes to rapid charge the PHEV (to the 80% stated)? There is no charging facility at my workplace, but the hotel next door has aChargemaster point advertised at 9p per kwh. I’m trying to estimate likely cost as my commute is 27 miles each way.

I have one general comment. There seems to be a lot of comment re costs but no one seems to mention homes that have Economy 7 metering. It was the first thing the sales rep asked me. I pay 12.7p per kWh during the day and 5.7p per Kwh at night. Therefore 75p per full charge when charged overnight.

I have noticed that the Outlander will not discharge the battery lower than about 25% (when the battery gauge shows zero, it is actually about 25-30% charged). This is confirmed when plugging into a public charging point. It shows it as being 30% as soon as it starts charging.

The car’s capacity is a little more than 12kWh. So, when you charge up to 80% in a rapid charger, you are really charging it for about 30% to 80%. i.e. 50%

I bought one of the first PHEVs that arrived in Melbourne Australia. I’ve now done 45,000 km. I tow heavy trailers occasionally, I drive it pretty hard. I bought an extra charge cable, the regular kind that comes with the vehicle.so I have one hanging out from under the garage door and one in the boot. I think I’ve bought about 30 litres of fuel per month. I considered a full electric and chose PHEV instead as I couldn’t risk running out of range and didn’t really want to even think about that. I have solar panels at my office and solar and battery storage at home. So I run completely on solar power plus a little petrol. 360litres of petrol, only solar electricity to charge it, 45,000 km….. I can’t imagine a better net result. I wouldn’t swap it for anything….except a new one with a little bigger battery!

So, as ‘Steve’ asked back in March 2015 how much do replacement batteries cost for a PHEV? I’m finding this information exceedingly hard to find – I also tried to find out what they’d cost for a Vauxhall Ampera – no success there either. How long are the batteries expected to last, does it depend on how carefully they’re charged (or it what manner – ie. ‘fast’ or ‘slow’ charge) over the (hopefully) years? I’ll never be able to afford a new PHEV but would certainly be interested in a used one. I currently drive an 18 year old Jeep Cherokee so that’s about how long I expect a car to last! I’m in the UK where petrol currently costs £1.00 a litre. Yes, that’s a litre not a gallon.

I am in New Zealand, Mitsubishi claimed its battery should last about 10 years however it will only have 70-80% of the original capacity at that time, I guess it is early to tell now. According to the Mitsubishi in NZ, the cost to replace the battery will be $23000NZD today, so do figures in your country, it maybe cheaper after few years who knows. I would definitely import a 2nd hand one from Japan myself, if the battery fucxed eventually at least I have petrol engine to run.

Thanks for that Bill, interesting. That comes to £10,948.46 of our fine English Pounds. So quite a lot then. About the cheapest secondhand PHEV in the UK at the moment is priced at £16,500, a 2014 model with 35,000 miles on the clock. I wonder if that means that the car would be worth £5,552 without the batteries?

I have had my PHEV for over 2 years now and more than 60,000 klms.
Tesla eat your heart out…saved $100,000 no range anxiety! I charge using my own solar and tow a 1.5 tonne trailer occasionally. Lovely car to drive. Good on the dirt roads. I have knocked the exhaust off three times on rugged bush tracks. Adjustable air suspension would help. I had a flat tyre caused by a sharp rock. No phone reception 50 klms from anywhere. A can of goo just doesn’t do it. I now take a spare wheel. I should use a more serious 4WD but I love this Mitsubishi creation too much! Thank you!
The GPS is a pain!

It is regretted to inform you that economy of the fuel consumption of my Mitsubishi Outlander Phev is very bad.
As per the company product information it shall be 40km/liter. But in my vehicle it is low as 10 km/ liter and im so unsatisfied this situation.

Vehicle details are as follows;
Year of manufacture: 2014 /05
As i understand noramal hybrid car with same engine capacity works more than 18km/liter.

By considering this model with electric / battery and fuel it shall be at least 20km per liter. Can anyone give some opinion over here??

You probably do not charge very often. It’s a plug-in hybrid for something, using is as a hybrid and comparing it with a Prius or Auris does not make any sense, the aerodynamics and weight are WAY different, of course the Outlander in non-electric mode it is much worse.

Hi, Im interested in this car. Just saw an ad where it is claimed that it can go 156 miles per gallon, that sounds pretty insane. Well, I understand that tose are just numbers, probably taken out of the best possible scenario.

My question is. With one filled-up tank, and a fully charge battery, how many miles can I drive before I have to refill my tank if I drive efficiently? (I know by this time the electric will be gone).

That’s way off! I have the 2016 GX4h in the UK and I don’t think it’s ever said more than 300 miles petrol range after a fill-up. I commute a round-trip of 64 miles a day on a combination of motorway (50%), town (40%) and country roads (10%). Also lucky if the battery charge ever says more than 22-23 miles after a full charge (and in reality I’ll only get 15-20 miles).

Ummm… You are basing you answer on what the car says the range will be. But those estimates are guesses based on conditions, accessories and driving speed/style. Have you actually tracked how much gas you put in vs how many miles you drive?

In real world use I’ve found 1240 kms to a tank was my best spread over several weeks and many charge cycles. Factor in charge costs and it just isn’t worth it. Also owned 2 Prii and they return 5l/100k all day every day no matter what. The car is a massive disappointment and I wish I’d gone for the new Prius I had planned. Buyer beware, all hype no substance!

I am only getting 40 mpg with my mitsubishi outlander PHEV. it has been in the garage and they say it is working normally and the reason why the MPG is low because it was winter and the cold temprature was the cause. But since it was in the garage they have lost there franchise. What is the truth?

The moment you sue the A/C it requires energy and/or heat. It’s got to come from somewhere, battery or engine. Even with all possible accesories turned off I cann’t manage more than 44kms from a charge. Thta’s ECO Mode and pulse/glide, max regen where I can….no matter what I do, that’s it. No 52k range and no 148mpg Imp. Seriously the Prius walks all over this things in all aspects.

I am thinking of buying PHEV GX4HS
Does the heating / air con work off the electric or or will the engine come on every time i want the heating or air con on.?
How effective is both if powered by battery?

The heater is woeful unless the engine warms to supply heat. Go above say 23 celcius on the climate control and the engine kicks in anyway. The claimed 148mpg is an outright fabrication in the real world. By contrast I own 2 Priui, one with 300,000km on the clock, never cost a cent, still does 5l/100k every day, driven like normally. A little hit in winter but nothing major. Far better car overall and not following trends and hype, more proven design that just works.

I bought an Aspire phev a month ago and am more than pleased with its performance both economy and power. I use it mainly on a daily basis to drive from Highfields to Toowoomba cbd a distance of of 29.7 k. return which involves a longish hill. On return on all occasions I have no less than 19 k. left on the electric range indicator, which would indicate a total range around 50k. I must admit I am very light footed and love to us the paddles on the regenative braking. When I first get in and start it up it always indicates 50 plus. It is how you drive. I once lent it to my son and the next time it was charged it indicated a range of 38 k.! Grea5 vehicle.

I’ve owned 3 Prius vehicles, there is no comparison in the size and weight of a Prius and an Outlander. I’ve now had my Outlander 2nd hand with 8000 Miles and driven sensibly, incredible range.
People here need to understand Physics! A large vehicle will obviously be less efficient to a Prius,

Hi. I have a question regarding my 2014 outlander PHEV hybrid: How many litres of petrol should a full battery charge consume if I press the ‘charge’ button to charge using the petrol engine? Assume it is high grade petrol. Thanks!