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Author Notes: This is a fabulous all-purpose sauce. It combines a dark fruity sweetness with peppery and tangy overtones. A good steak sauce, it also works as a sandwich spread. It is very good with cheese, eggs, and legumes. Mixed with cream cheese and a bit of liquid, it is a great dipper for any little fried bites. —friendlyoaks

Makes about 3/4 cup

1/2cup onions, chopped

2tablespoons vegetable oil

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

11ounces tamarind nectar (such as Jumex brand)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1/2cup mango, coarsely chopped

1/4cup raisins, plumped and chopped

1 clove

1teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons brown sugar

1/4cup red wine vinegar

1/4cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon sambal olek, or more if you want a more peppery sauce

2tablespoons spicy brown mustard

In a small saucepan, cook the onion in the vegetable oil until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic for the last minute.

Add the remaining ingredients. Bring the mixture to a boil until it is reduced to approximately 3/4 cup and the vinegar taste has mellowed. Keep an eye on this as it cooks. Stir it frequently. As the sauce reduces, reduce the heat also to avoid burning or sticking. At the end of the process, the sauce will be cooking over a low heat instead of at a boil.

When the sauce has reduced, cool it a bit. Put it through a food mill to create a chunky but smooth mixture.

I have never used tamarind paste - the reduced nectar (or in some cases unsweetened pomegranate molasses) is my standard substitution for it. To work backward, I think I would use an amount equal to the tomato paste along with 1 1/2 cups of water with the idea of making further adjustments the next time.