In the November/December 2011 Cigar Aficionado

Havana—The Insider's Guide

Cigar lovers, plan your pilgrimage to tobacco's homeland with our guide to Havana. We delved deeply into this fascinating land so long shrouded by embargo to uncover its many charms. We tell you the ins and out of where to go, what to see, where to sleep, what to eat, and, of course, how to get the best cigars. Also, our holiday gift guide will give you the perfect cigar accessories choices for both giving and receiving, a profile of golf agent Chubby Chandler, which NFL team came out a winner after the lockout, and we speak with Hiroshi Robaina, grandson of legendary tobacco grower Alejandro.

Cover :Shopping Glory - Havana tobacconists have the widest selections and the best prices for treasured Cuban cigars. Plus, there’s room to smoke and lots to drink, so your shopping spree is sure to be rewarding.

Pinar del Río - To get to the heart of cigarmaking it is necessary to go to the source: Pinar del Río. Two hours from Havana, it is the world’s most celebrated tobacco-growing region.

Sleeping Tight - Cuba’s hostelries run a gambit from the classic holdovers from the colonial Havana of old to the soaring modern structures that rival contemporary hotels the world over.

A Movable Feast - The one constant to the restaurants of Havana is that they are always changing. As new government rules have the dining scene in flux, we recommend the greats and offer guidance on how to find the new best places as they inevitably pop up.

The City of Old - Havana is one of the oldest cities in the New World and Habana Vieja, or Old Havana, is the place where time has stood still. Visiting its many shrines will take you back centuries.

The Sounds of the Island - Cuba’s capital is vibrant with culture and art, and one of the most trenchant examples is its lively music scene. We tell you where to hear the very best.

A Sacred Journey - No trip to Havana is complete for a cigar lover without a visit to a cigar factory. Three storied rolling facilities offer tours and all of them provide insight into the making of our favorite product.

Golf :Super Agent Man - How Chubby Chandler transformed from an almost-was golfer into the agent par excellence and manager of such stars as Rory McIlroy, Lee Westwood and Louis Oosthuizen.

Gambling :Betting on Mano a Mano - By wagering on such one-on-one sports as golf, tennis, boxing and even NASCAR, some savvy gamblers take advantage of the more predictable performances of competitors who play alone. They build their edge on insider knowledge and the sport books’ lack thereof.

Sports :NFL's Gold Rush - A torrid feeding frenzy broke out when pro football ended its lockout in the 11th hour, as general managers became frantic to lock down the best free agents before the season began. We look at who came out on top.

Profile :Tom Celani - The Michigan entrepreneur inherited a beer distributorship and turned it into an empire that includes a casino, a Harley-Davidson dealership and a winery.

Cuba Report :A Changing of the Guard - Cuba’s most renowned tobacco farm lost a revered leader when Alejandro Robaina died, but his grandson Hiroshi has picked up the reins, applying the experience and wisdom of his abuelo.