I saw that deal yesterday but didn’t post it because it didn’t appeal to me enough…

D’oh!

That deal appears to have expired, but when I clicked on the linked Amazon ad yesterday, it appeared to be for the original version with the higher moonlight and unimproved tail switch, rather than the newer version with .5 lumen moonlight and improved tail switch.

I could find next to nothing on the PF04 in regards to reviews, just one video.

Even at the regular price of $14.99, it seems like a decent deal, if it’s a decent light. I’m tempted, though I don’t know if it would kick my Nitcore MT06 (now out of production) out of my pocket.

That deal appears to have expired, but when I clicked on the linked Amazon ad yesterday, it appeared to be for the original version with the higher moonlight and unimproved tail switch, rather than the newer version with .5 lumen moonlight and improved tail switch.

Yeah, it does appear to be the version with the 1 lumen moonlight. Which personally is just fine with me.

But I’m curious, how do the switches differ between the two versions?? What was upgraded switch wise??

—

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant

That deal appears to have expired, but when I clicked on the linked Amazon ad yesterday, it appeared to be for the original version with the higher moonlight and unimproved tail switch, rather than the newer version with .5 lumen moonlight and improved tail switch.

Yeah, it does appear to be the version with the 1 lumen moonlight. Which personally is just fine with me.

But I’m curious, how do the switches differ between the two versions?? What was upgraded switch wise??

I don’t know the details of the switch upgrade – I read some references to it in the Amazon reviews.

New one has more of a shine and almost a metal flake finish, older one is more like duller aluminum color.
Old one still has better creamy tint but have just come to realize it is just the tint lottery as the other 5 PF04’s that I have in different colors do not share that tint.
It is still a nice tint with no blue or green.

New one has wider spot/more flood. Reflector appears the same so do not know what the diff is, maybe focusing.
See no difference in the moonlight they all are nice and low and would venture that they are under 1 lumen,

Regarding the tail switch I have only had one with flaky switch and that was from over 1 year ago so whatever the issue was it was random.
The switches are still stiff and that will probably never change but they are usable once you are used to them.
These penlights are very nice for the money and remains my most used flashlight. 3 modes, no blinky, no BS.

I set up different heavy shirts for winter with a PF04, Reading glasses and a pen so the shirt is always ready to rock and roll.
Later,

Keith

—

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive Cockroaches and Keith Richards

Easy to tear down – work from the bezel down, simple press fit driver. See the rough edge of the driver? That’s what is a little flexible, easy to press fit in and remove. Yes, ol school budget modding

Pretty much classic SK68, but that switch – might be better than regular SK68’s, not sure. The switch’s on the low budgets can kill the deal at times – difficult to replace with better low resistance parts, etc. OL used to re-build the switch from hand cut copper – a challenge for many.

I think KB is missing showing the plastic ring that holds down the LED/MCPCB – keeps it in it’s place. On some of these I used to swap the LED/MCPDB and use some thermal epoxy to keep it down and dump the plastic retainer thing, which usually gets torn up from removing ti anyway.

Yanked out the press fit metal retainer holding mcpcb down. Drilled holes into the rollo pill to facilitate removal, the bezel wouldn’t grip the o-ring enough to help and drilled holes into the plastic press fit switch retainer, it was pretty tight. Removed the mcpcb, popped the driver out. Easy Peasy…
!{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/j5YnCHDj/IMG-0080.jpg!

How does the head come off? What other emitters do you suggest to replace this XP G?I’ve got a XM L2 from a C8 that is less blue than this one.Would that work?

Extend the head all the way and keep pulling outwards while you unscrew counterclockwise (left). I think Kawi said his was too tight to do this (at least I assume this is what he meant), however, it worked fine for my light.

Extend the head all the way and keep pulling outwards while you unscrew counterclockwise (left). I think Kawi said his was too tight to do this (at least I assume this is what he meant), however, it worked fine for my light.

Easy to tear down – work from the bezel down, simple press fit driver. See the rough edge of the driver? That’s what is a little flexible, easy to press fit in and remove. Yes, ol school budget modding

Pretty much classic SK68, but that switch – might be better than regular SK68’s, not sure. The switch’s on the low budgets can kill the deal at times – difficult to replace with better low resistance parts, etc. OL used to re-build the switch from hand cut copper – a challenge for many.

I think KB is missing showing the plastic ring that holds down the LED/MCPCB – keeps it in it’s place. On some of these I used to swap the LED/MCPDB and use some thermal epoxy to keep it down and dump the plastic retainer thing, which usually gets torn up from removing ti anyway.

Yanked out the press fit metal retainer holding mcpcb down. Drilled holes into the rollo pill to facilitate removal, the bezel wouldn’t grip the o-ring enough to help and drilled holes into the plastic press fit switch retainer, it was pretty tight. Removed the mcpcb, popped the driver out. Easy Peasy…
!{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/j5YnCHDj/IMG-0080.jpg!

How does the head come off? What other emitters do you suggest to replace this XP G?I’ve got a XM L2 from a C8 that is less blue than this one.Would that work?

Unscrew the pill. Mine (pill) was tight so the friction between the head and o-ring on the pill didn’t work, when I tried unscrewing the head. The board is 15.65mm on mine, don’t have the pill with me it is at work, was going to make a press fit slug for it, but I think a 16mm board will work? So what ever you got on a 16mm board…I have yet to mess with the resistor on the driver, so I don’t know what the driver is capable of yet. On a 14500 Purple Efest I think I got like 60-80lms stock, IIRC?

Edit:

With the (1R5) 1.5ohm resistor 2” 22awg leads, I got .83amp High, .20amp Low and ,43amp Strobe measured at the emitter.
Jumped the resistor got 1.45amp at the emitter then went single mode. It did got thru the levels twice, then went single
Now to wipe it clean and piggy back a 12mm FETDD driver…That I have had (a few of them) bought at RMM’s Garage Sale years ago..

Just fyi, I've been working on the TESLACOM light, got it fully apart. Got the tail knob thing working better. Swapping 4 springs with the small Blue ones, and the spring in the tail assembly I swapped for a brass button.I could swap the driver but just might keep it for now. Swapping in an old XML2 U3 3D on a SinkPAD I had for while now, did a resistor bypass, and will swap the 24 AWG LED wires to 22 AWG. Not expecting anything too crazy but should be a nice boost and tint, hoping for 1000 lumens or so. The shelf for mounting is not so great, but figure using good thermal grease where it's needed will help, and sanding surfaces down.

For the hard-to-press button, I added some epoxy on the inside of the button, and also added some on top of the switch. I'm thinking this should improve it. Looks like in assembly, they cut down the button knob inside the button cover, so I guess they had troubles with it, just think they cut it too far down.

The UI really isn't that bad - 4 modes, appear to be well spaced, w/memory (I think, if I have memory...), and think it was long press to turn it off.

The charging circuit looks well separated from the MCU that drives the light. Both the charging circuit and the MCU have access to red and greed aux LED's. A 17 mm driver should fit in there, replacing the perpendicular mounted board that controls the main LED. I clearly see where batt+,grnd, the switch, and the aux LED's come in to the board, so very do-able.

Just fyi, I’ve been working on the TESLACOM light, got it fully apart. Got the tail knob thing working better. Swapping 4 springs with the small Blue ones, and the spring in the tail assembly I swapped for a brass button.I could swap the driver but just might keep it for now. Swapping in an old XML2 U3 3D on a SinkPAD I had for while now, did a resistor bypass, and will swap the 24 AWG LED wires to 22 AWG. Not expecting anything too crazy but should be a nice boost and tint, hoping for 1000 lumens or so. The shelf for mounting is not so great, but figure using good thermal grease where it’s needed will help, and sanding surfaces down.

For the hard-to-press button, I added some epoxy on the inside of the button, and also added some on top of the switch. I’m thinking this should improve it. Looks like in assembly, they cut down the button knob inside the button cover, so I guess they had troubles with it, just think they cut it too far down.

The UI really isn’t that bad – 4 modes, appear to be well spaced, w/memory (I think, if I have memory…), and think it was long press to turn it off.

The charging circuit looks well separated from the MCU that drives the light. Both the charging circuit and the MCU have access to red and greed aux LED’s. A 17 mm driver should fit in there, replacing the perpendicular mounted board that controls the main LED. I clearly see where batt+,grnd, the switch, and the aux LED’s come in to the board, so very do-able.

Only thing I have done to mine is put an SST-40 in it but I didn’t measure output before I did it and I really didn’t notice a difference output. Keep us posted. Maybe I will have time in the future to upgrade mine some more. Not a bad lightfor the price I paid for it.

The tail knob is now smoother - Nyogel on threads, spring chages, but it's still hard to get to start threading.

Dang, forgot to mention, but I added some clear epoxy to the tip of the switch and it activates a little better now. The epoxy I put on the knob of the inside of the button cover came off when I tried to assemble it all - I think it would have helped more.

Finally—-I bought this work light on Dec 6 —- after 10 emails—3 times promised it was shipped to me—a threat of turning into Amazon and a Full refund—It arrived
Not a bad light for free — through Vipon it was only $5

Only thing I don’t like about it is that it’s a fingerprint magnet, but for 10bux I’ll live with it.

True, no batteries required, just give the knob a half-turn or so and it “charges”. Has a tare function to subtract the weight of the container you’re sticking food into, handles over 10lbs/5kg, and is a respectable size (about that of a medium-sized tablet).

I’ll have to play with it more, but first impressions are pretty good!

Finally—-I bought this work light on Dec 6 —- after 10 emails—3 times promised it was shipped to me—a threat of turning into Amazon and a Full refund—It arrived
Not a bad light for free — through Vipon it was only $5

i hope this isnt a silly question, but how easy is it to read the scale with a large bowl on it, please? my current scale is not so good that way.

‘Oo, me?

Haven’t tried it with a big bowl (cereal bowl, only), but the display is pretty visible.

The whole thing’s about the size of a medium tablet, the display faces straight up, and one possible downside is that it’s not illuminated, so you do have to look down at it and not from a shallow angle.

‘Though even when I press down on the bottom, below the display, it still registers the weight, so you can try positioning the bowl so that it even hangs off slightly and see if the weight remains constant (I’m at work, so obviously can’t test it out here).

Unless you’re talking about a punch-bowl, I don’t think it’d be a problem, though.

The Sofirn Q8 5000LM, 4 XPL HI LED is scheduled to be in a Lightening Deal at 1715 hrs EST (1645 for Prime) today (12 Feb). It boasts impressive throw with a wide area of flood.

The current price is $59.99. During the Oct 18 Lightening Deal, it went for $42.44.

ActiveAl, could you please share how you came across the scheduled lightning deal information?

I’m Canadian and I’ve tried to find “lightning deals” or special one-day prices on amazon.ca but haven’t been able to? Does anyone know if the same deals are even available on amazon.ca? (see photo below showing only a $6.00 off coupon on amazon.ca)

On a side note!

Here’s proof amazon recognizes the quality of BLF products! Especially considering that right beside it: the BEST SELLER is a 2-pack yhkj flashlight!

The Sofirn Q8 5000LM, 4 XPL HI LED is scheduled to be in a Lightening Deal at 1715 hrs EST (1645 for Prime) today (12 Feb). It boasts impressive throw with a wide area of flood.

The current price is $59.99. During the Oct 18 Lightening Deal, it went for $42.44.

ActiveAl, could you please share how you came across the scheduled lightning deal information? I'm Canadian and I've tried to find "lightning deals" or special one-day prices on amazon.ca but haven't been able to? Does anyone know if the same deals are even available on amazon.ca? (see photo below showing only a $6.00 off coupon on amazon.ca) On a side note! Here's proof amazon recognizes the quality of BLF products! Especially considering that right beside it: the BEST SELLER is a 2-pack yhkj flashlight!

Here is a thread that helps describe the process I use to find upcoming Lightening Deals. Sorry, I can't help you from the Canadian viewpoint. Take care, and Thanks!