unlikely, I need your help if you can. As I told you in the previous post, yesterday evening I completed my two monoblock amps with the Audiosector premium kit and they worked fine. I switched on-off many times the amps without any problem.

Today the fuses of both amps started to blow on both amps at switch on.

I use 2 trasnsformers 300VA with dual secondaries 25VAC (I am in Europe so the main rail is rated 230V). The fuses I used are 2AT (slow blow).

The only thing different with yesterday I can imagine is a slightly different tension (maybe higher) of the main rail so that the fuses that yesterday were just sufficient now blow.

What is your opinion? Can I slightly increase the ampere rate of the fuses?

__________________www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

Hey folks just wanted to say I got my kit built and it is working wonderfully. It sounds fantastic. I did had the RF interference problem the first day. But I managed to solve it with the fix suggested here in the first few pages. The only thing I do not have working is the LED. It is the little things.

i running my amp over two weeks. But i found the base is slow, i want to make the amp control the base fast.

what can i do?

You may try replacing Panasonics with BG STD 1000/50. If this won't help, the problem is probably somwhere else and not the amp.

__________________www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

Would there be any improvement by using 1500uf / 50 v Black Gates vs. 1000uf / 50 v? These are the standard BG and 1500uf / 50v is hard to find.
Also, I've been doing some reading on TVC (Sonic Euphoria good bass and dynamics, less clear, less linear) vs. resistor (Placette super clean but less bass and worse at the low volumes I listen at), vs. plain Alps motorized pot (a compromise between the other two) . Would 10k be a good value? My CDP's output impedance is 100 ohm.
Thanks

STD BGs come only in 1000uf and produce the best bass. There is not much actual difference between 1000uF and 1500uF.

I would suggest 25K pot value; 10K will work too, but I don't see a reason to lower input impedance too much.

__________________www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

I have a pair of 16 ohm bookshelf speakers (WR125ST w/ 16 ohm Alnico piezo) and two identical center tapped transformers (35 - 0 - 35). Both are from Pioneer SX-6 amplifiers. One is functional and currently powering the monitors, but they deserve something better.

I would like to build some LM3875 "premium" monoblocks for them without having to buy transformers but I'm totally out of my league here. On the back of the amplifier it has a VA rating is 280; there is also a 12 volt secondary which I'm guessing accounts for part of the 280 ratings.? But that should still be plenty for a single channel.? Can I safely build monoblocks with these if they will always see a 16 ohm load and I use decent heat sinks?

I looked at the spec sheet for the LM3875, but it didn't give me a definitive answer since all the Typical Performance Characteristics graphs only account for rail voltages up to 40 volts with 4 and 8 ohm loads, and I figure my rail voltages will be about 50V (35 x 1.4).