SAN ANTONIO — There may be as many versions of guacamole as there are cooks in Texas and Mexico, and everybody says they make the best.

In Mexico, the most traditional versions use a stone molcajete with finely diced white onion, serrano chiles, cilantro and red tomato. In the state of Guanajuato, versions of guacamole include grapes, peaches and pomegranate seeds, notes cookbook author Roberto Santibañez, a Mexico City native with restaurants in New York who has presented frequently at conferences in San Antonio.

Some cooks prefer red onion, while other additions include lime or orange juice. I know some cooks love garlic or garlic salt in their versions. I'll pass.

One of the most famous versions in San Antonio is a signature item at Boudro's, the longtime River Walk favorite, where it's made tableside, with ingredients lightly tossed together.

Versions in Mexico often call for the onions, chiles and cilantro to be mashed together into a paste before adding the avocado, and lightly crushing the buttery flesh.

However you choose to do it, remember that the avocado should still maintain some texture. It's a detail that elevates the dish.