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Topic Review (Newest First)

11-07-2011 11:47 PM

joelperez

I ended up going with the hex head SS fasteners thru mcmaster carr. All this time searching on industrial fasnere websites and I had been looking for the wrong type of head. I kept looking for Philips heads, which were limited in length, which makes sense since they aren't hardened fasteners and could break.
Thanks again for the suggestions.

11-04-2011 11:00 PM

joelperez

Wow, thanks for all the great responses and thoughts. My email notifications must have been off. I didn't realize so many of you had replied. I look forward to looking further into your ideas and reporting back. Thanks!

11-03-2011 08:48 PM

Cherie320

If you have to replace the teak hand rails, it might be worth investigating plasteak and Stainless Steel as alternative materials.

11-03-2011 01:58 PM

SloopJonB

Find an Industrial fastener supplier in your area - forget "marine" sources. A good industrial supplier will have or can get the most mind boggling array of fasteners in any material.

I was in my local one - Pacific fasteners and they had an absolutely HUGE nail on a display board. This thing must have been three feet long and an inch & a half in diameter. It made a railroad spike look like a brad nail. Turned out it was used as a tent peg for circus sized tents.

Does Worst Marine have that sort of selection?

11-03-2011 09:34 AM

sidmon

Also, here is some useful info from someone who has been down this road:

I've done that job on my Pearson 28-2. My original bolts were in good shape so I have nothing for you there, but it sounds like others have given you sources or possibilities for long, thin bolts.

I drilled out and potted the deck holes with thickened epoxy, then redrilled to isolate the core. I put that job off for months because I was worried about realigning the holes top to bottom--the angle has to be right to get the bolt through the handrail on both sides. Finally just did it, with a jig on the hand drill to assist in making the holes perpendicular to the deck. Had to widen some of my holes a bit but got it back together, and swore I'd never take the handrails off again.

They were leaking ( a nearby yard charged the PO a pretty penny to "fix" them several years ago. They lied to him) quite badly.

As per some other threads on here, I found that the "late model" -circa 80's- Pearsons have thru bolted handrails in the cabin top. After removing the bungs on the exterior ones, I found that the bolt head had been expoxied. And in trying to remove one, I split the stbd handrail along a wood seam ;(...

Well, thank god for D&R Marine!. They sell lots of Pearson OEM products, including the right sized handrails:

I have the same arrangement on my Luders 33 and it was leaking badly. I removed all handrails and will not replace the ones inside – when healing, I find it easier to hold on to the sides than the ceiling. If you do that, you’ll need shorter bolts. But if you prefer to reinstall the inside ones, the threaded rod is the way to go.
Anyway, since you are at it, I would to do what I did: drill the holes with a bit the same diameter or slightly bigger; countersink the deck side of the deck hole; clean the inside with acetone then stick a piece of duct tape on the ceiling inside the cabin making sure it is well stuck. Mix epoxy without any filling and pour on the hole. Put a cup or a plate under the tape inside and remove the tape draining the epoxy which can be re-used. This will ensure you are protecting your deck from future moisture problems. Then when the epoxy is cured make sure you re-bed the outside rails with butyl tape from Maine Sail.
Good luck on your project.

11-02-2011 08:23 AM

deniseO30

MY oday 30 has the same type of rails. a real PITA! Most of the old ones were still good but I did find a few at the local WM. I think they are/were #10 x 18