1967 VW Beetlehttp://1967beetle.com
Restoring A Vintage Volkswagen BugThu, 17 May 2018 00:26:57 +0000en-UShourly1https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.5FOR SALE – L620 Savanna Beige ’67 Beetlehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/7TGqVVuH0cQ/
http://1967beetle.com/seans-67/#respondThu, 17 May 2018 00:24:09 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21233--
You just finished reading "FOR SALE – L620 Savanna Beige ’67 Beetle" on 1967 VW Beetle! I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!
]]>Sean’s a friend of 1967beetle.com, and a good customer of Lane Russell. We exchanged a few emails today and he let us know this his L620 Savanna Beige ’67 Beetle is now on the market. We all know how special these cars are. They say a photo is worth a thousand words. With that said, let’s take a look.

A big thank you to all those around the world that support what we do. It’s been a bit quiet around 1967beetle.com; there simply are not enough hours in the day.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/seans-67/feed/0http://1967beetle.com/seans-67/’67 Beetle Wiring Diagram – U.S Versionhttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/PJvXaxZ-iwA/
http://1967beetle.com/67-beetle-wiring-diagram/#commentsThu, 03 May 2018 22:59:01 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21229Lane Russell has received quite a few emails asking for the correct wiring diagram for the one year only ’67 Beetle. Illustrated above is the VW 1500 sedan and convertible (U.S. version) from August 1966 to July 1967 in all its glory. You can download it in a much larger format as well.

]]>Lane Russell has received quite a few emails asking for the correct wiring diagram for the one year only ’67 Beetle. Illustrated above is the VW 1500 sedan and convertible (U.S. version) from August 1966 to July 1967 in all its glory.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/67-beetle-wiring-diagram/feed/3http://1967beetle.com/67-beetle-wiring-diagram/SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbeltshttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/S-qkzPGIdx4/
http://1967beetle.com/lobster-beck/#commentsTue, 10 Apr 2018 00:52:33 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21213--
You just finished reading "SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbelts" on 1967 VW Beetle! I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!
]]>
Our good friend and follower of 1967beetle.com, Gary Beck has a rare find for us today. If you know the ’67 Beetle, you know the correct and rare Lobster Claw seatbelts. These are original used German and still function perfectly. They retract as designed, and are ready to install in your pride and joy. Both install bolts are included.

Sold as a set of two.
Fits the 1967 Beetles.

Status: SOLD
Location: CAPrice: $300 + freightContact: Now that’s what I call rare!

]]>Over time, I’m learning never to say never and never to say always—when it comes to some of the knotty problems which we of the 1967 Beetle Community confront. Oh, yes—a lot of the time there WILL be an explanation for what appears to be a radical problem. But—what about those other situations which seemingly have no quick answers? Hummmmm!

The latest paradox arose when Eric copied me with a message which he received from Reader Justin Heath. Justin said:

“Hi Eric, It’s been a while since I’ve asked you about some ‘67 trivia. I’ve recently acquired an American spec Right Hand Drive (RHD) ‘67 Beetle. Unusual? It seems so… Very cool story about its travels. I’ll get into that later. But first, I wanted to ask about the ‘67 Rear View Mirror. I know that some ‘67 Rear Views had their stems painted black and the mirror head had a black plastic backing. Was this for the entire run of ‘67 VINs? Or (let’s say) did early ‘67s come with the chrome-stem/aluminum-head Rear View? Finally… is the black/black Rear View Mirror ‘67 only, or did that style continue into 1968?

“When I acquired the car, the owner claimed he was the fourth owner and the car came with some detailed history. It was shipped to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) from the Factory, then spent time in Malaysia and Indonesia before coming to Nor-Cal around 1980. It was originally owned by a college professor.”

During the brief research I’ve done, I’ve been told that there were a few select RHD markets that had the option of either Euro or American Spec ‘67s. Thailand and possibly Japan being just two that were named. I have no idea how to confirm this….but it makes for fun head-scratching moments.

I asked about the Mirror because I’ve seen the black/black ‘67 Mirror on more than one occasion. In my case, this RHD Bug was in need of a Rear View Mirror since the one it came with was bad. I found a RHD black/black Rear View on eBay UK, so I bought it. Knowing how hard it is to find RHD parts in the US, I jumped on it regardless of its color…it was for RHD!”

Eric commented that his ’67 Beetle has the black-stemmed Mirror with the black plastic back, and further explained that it was his understanding that the car came from the factory with the present Mirror.
I wanted to say:

“I’ve never seen a black/black Mirror for 1967 Beetles.”

Eric provided a photo of his car’s Mirror.

Then, he produced a comparative photo of the chromed (bright) version and the black/black version of Mirrors.

No denying the fact that there were–and are–black/black Mirrors!

You know, you see your own car day-after-day and you begin to believe that YOUR car is the only one out there which exhibits the Wolfsburg stamp of approval.

Furthermore, Justin sent a photo of the black/black Mirror which he purchased through eBay UK.

Knowing, now, the basic history of Justin’s car (not destined for consumption in the USA from the Factory), plus the facts about Todd’s Standard Beetle, I began to think that perhaps the black/black Mirror was specific to Standard Beetles, and for versions of the ’67 Bug destined for markets other than for the USA.

Based upon these “factoids”, I thought, perhaps, the black/black Mirrors were created for those other markets and ultimately became a Dealer replacement Mirror.

There was the nagging thought about that plastic backing of the black/black Mirror.

From the photo which Justin sent of the Mirror which he purchased from eBay, the backing strongly resembled the backing for the ’68 and later Beetle Rear View Mirrors!

Why would VWaG come out with a Mirror with a plastic backing when it already had the bright Mirror in use for years 1965-1967?

What would any of this have to do with RHD ‘67s?

I called David Brown of Pennsylvania. You’ll recall that David only recently retired from the active VW Scene but VW still runs hot in his blood! I put David to thinking on the subject. He told me that, indeed, he has seen the black/black Mirrors but had not put much thought into the “why” of them. He opined that perhaps the Mirrors were from the Mexico or Brazil plants and came to be used as replacement Mirrors for ’65-’67 Beetles.

I let all of this ferment. Then, I decided to dig a bit—I have boxes of parts sitting which I rarely open. I dug through my Mirror boxes and what to my wondering eye should appear, but a black/black Mirror!

I cleaned it as best I could. Then I pulled a good representative bright Mirror from the pile.

I examined and compared the VW Part Numbers. All of my bright Mirrors were: 113-857-511C.

The black/black example was numbered 111-857-511P

“P”???

Both examples show the VW Logo. But, the Manufacturers’ Logos are different. The bright Mirror sports a manufacturer’s Logo of a U within a carat. The black/black Mirror sports a raised rectangle in which is a circle around the Logo reading “hohe”.

Armed with the new “evidence”, I again called David so that we could discuss it. And, again, no real solution came to the fore. But, as David always says—our discussion “got the numbers flowing again…”

Here’s what he wrote after this last phone conversation:

“Hello JK , It was good to talk to you about the Mirrors, got the part numbers flowing again, lol. I was able to find some references to interior Mirrors in those New and Replacement Parts listings that I mentioned to you.

Supplement 11/68 to the Type 1 Parts Book lists 113-857-511C as being superseded by 111-857-511P ! Other than remaining Dealer stocks, this would be the replacement Mirror for ‘65-‘67 Sedans and is what is called for in my VW Parts Book of that (‘68-‘70) era.

By this I would guess that the Standard Standard should have a normal chrome stem with aluminum case as should all 1967s.

I have not found an introduction date for the 111-857-511P in the Book but am quite sure that it was after 1967 production ended. David”

Where does this leave us?

I thought, based on the limited information which has surfaced, that Beetles from 1965 through 1967 left the Wolfsburg Factory with the bright Mirrors (113-857-511C).

I knew that this suggested conclusion was going to spark some discussion. If it did, I hoped that we could learn more about the elusive black/black Mirror.

Subsequent to having written all of the above…..nagging questions remained.

I tried flipping all of the 113-857-511C bright) mirrors which I have. Yes—it seemed that by rotating the mirror so that the long part pointed the opposite direction, the bright mirrors could be used for either Left Hand Drive (LHD) or Right Hand Drive (RHD).

To test this, I sat in the passenger’s seat of my personal 1967 Beetle. I rotated the Mirror.
No matter how much I adjusted, I could not see the complete rear windshield without craning my head to the left. This is counter productive, of course, because at that point, a person sees his own face!

Therefore—I theorized that there must be bright Mirrors specific to the LHD and to the RHD Beetles.

On the other hand, the black/black Mirror, which I had at hand, has a different socket which allows the mirror to be rotated and aimed so that it can be used with either LHD OR RHD.

I sat on this Article, and it was a good thing. Shortly, I received further information from both Justin Heath and David Brown.

Justin wrote: “I worked on both the bright Mirror (which came with the car) and the new black/black Mirror (from eBay UK). Here are the results:

Black/Black Mirror: 111-857-511P The stem socket DOES allow for full range of motion to suit either RHD or LHD cars when the Mirror Head is spun 180 degrees accordingly.

Bright Mirror: (has two part numbers) 114-857-511C / 112-857-511E When the bright Mirror Head is spun 180 degrees, it DOES NOT allow a range of motion to see out of the rear window from a LHD driver’s perspective. However, it does have proper full range of motion from a RHD driver’s perspective. Some lube in the stem socket freed it up from being stuck (as I received it) and allowed it its full possible range of motion.

It is unknown if the bright Mirror is the same Mirror that has stayed with my car from birth. It simply is the Mirror that was in the car when I purchased it.”

Then, David Brown discovered additional information from his Parts Manuals:

“There are, indeed, separate LHD and separate RHD bright Mirrors listed. There are more differences between them than just the pivot position. 112- is a Mirror for the 111- Standard RHD Beetle. 114- is a Mirror for the 113- Deluxe RHD Beetle. So, the RHD Standard and RHD Deluxe Beetles BOTH used the same bright Mirror.”

ANALYSIS:

Presumably the 113-857-511C bright Mirror was the factory Mirror for all LHD 1967 Beetles.

Presumably the 112-857-511E /114-857-511C bright Mirror was the factory Mirror for both RHD Standard and RHD Deluxe Beetles.

Presumably, the black/black Mirror was a replacement Mirror issued which could replace either LHD or RHD Mirrors for 1965-1967 Beetles regardless of their country of destination.

As we hear from more 1967 Beetle Owners, hopefully we will be able to add to this Analysis and to understand more fully the styles of Mirrors used for 1967 Beetles.

I want to thank Justin Heath for permission to use his name, his discussions and his photos.

David Brown’s input always is appreciated. Thankfully he has conserved “ancient” Volkswagen documentation.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/mystery/feed/23http://1967beetle.com/mystery/Hella SB-12 Headlight Ringshttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/ifPUeKJqs60/
http://1967beetle.com/sb12-ring/#commentsSun, 18 Mar 2018 01:52:31 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21176--
You just finished reading "Hella SB-12 Headlight Rings" on 1967 VW Beetle! I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!
]]>Along with the many other interesting things about the 1967 Volkswagen Beetle are the Head Light Rings Engraved with Hella SB-12. The SB-12s first were used by Volkswagen on Type 3s—the FastBacks and SquareBacks which came to US Dealerships.

Then for reasons unknown to us today, Volkswagen decided to install these special Head Light Rings on early ’67 Beetles—only those manufactured from August–October of 1966. The validation of this information has taken many years of checking the VINs of original, unrestored ‘67s which had SB-12s installed.

If you want to check to see when your ‘67 Beetle was manufactured, go here.

You also will be able to check your Engine H0 Case Serial Number to see how close it is to your VIN.

In today’s world, you will find SB-12s installed on a lot of ‘67 Bugs no matter what month the car was manufactured. Unless you are a purest, it really doesn’t matter if they came with the car, or not. They are very cool to have installed and finding a good set these days is getting harder all the time.

As we all are aware, Volkswagen made a lot of Beetles. However, the ’67 Beetle is the milestone year sought by collectors. It has been said that you either love or hate ‘67s. It really depends on how many of those one-year-only parts are already on the car when you acquire it and how many you have to chase down.

The bottom line is–if you have SB-12s on your ‘67 and it is an early ’67, great. If you have them installed on a later ‘67, enjoy them, because they are not easy to find these days and that is one of the first things folks look for when they are checking out a ‘67.

The SB-12 Head Light Rings pictured in this article are of some of my special ‘67 items–a Hella Box of NOS SB-12s and one of the SB-12s I unwrapped for this article.

I would like to thank my good friend and mentor, Bill, who is an expert on the 1967 Beetle.

Cheers,

Richard R. Marcoux

Editor’s Note:Richard Marcoux owns two Unaltered 1967 Beetles—a Convertible and a SunRoof Edition Sedan. Along with Richard’s expertise, these cars have proven themselves invaluable to the 1967 Beetle Community, providing an open window on how a 1967 Beetle Convertible and a SunRoof Sedan would have appeared as they exited the factory doors–the Sedan from Wolfsburg and the Convertible from Osnabruck, Germany.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/sb12-ring/feed/21http://1967beetle.com/sb12-ring/Wie Ist Der 1500 – 1967 Volkswagen Beetlehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/xIhTq8e-esE/
http://1967beetle.com/wie-ist-der/#commentsWed, 14 Mar 2018 00:01:29 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21163Readers of 1967beetle.com from around the world often submit interesting and historic literature. Just when I think we’ve seen it all, something new arrives. My Great Grandfather arrived in the USA from Germany long long ago. Sadly, I don’t speak a word of the language. Err, Das Wolfsburger?! Can anyone provide context to this piece […]

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Readers of 1967beetle.com from around the world often submit interesting and historic literature. Just when I think we’ve seen it all, something new arrives. My Great Grandfather arrived in the USA from Germany long long ago. Sadly, I don’t speak a word of the language. Err, Das Wolfsburger?!

Can anyone provide context to this piece of ’67 Beetle history? If so, chime in below.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/wie-ist-der/feed/5http://1967beetle.com/wie-ist-der/James Mitchell’s L456 Ruby Red ’67 Beetlehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/9KAsKy6hHUo/
http://1967beetle.com/james-mitchell/#commentsFri, 23 Feb 2018 23:43:27 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21143The engine ran “ok” when I bought it, and the heads under the valve covers were very clean (which indicated a low mileage motor), but she really lacked power. I found that her distributor was allowing only 12 degrees of maximum advance, so I swapped it for a new one with electronic ignition that gave […]

]]>My first experience with 1967 Volkswagens was as a kid in the early ‘70s. My Dad got a Navy-colored Sunroof ‘67 Beetle from a friend. It had been rolled down a mountain, but it still ran and drove, even though every panel on it was in ruin.

Dad then picked up a Sunroof ‘64 that had experienced an engine fire. His plan was to swap the ‘67 motor into the ‘64, but he never got around to it. Me and my siblings played in those cars for years until some neighborhood teenager bought them for parts. My 1967 VW brings back many fond memories—I still remember that cool wooden Formula Vee shift knob Dad’s Bug had.

I had been looking for an older Bug for a while when this one came up for sale about 75 miles away. Rust-free Bugs are hard to come by on the East Coast but supposedly this was a West Coast car. The original Owner’s Manual showed service stamps from VW dealers in CA and OR, and there was a CA college parking sticker on the rear window, which helped to confirm her origin.

She was super solid underneath, and although shabby, she did run, drove well, and was fairly complete. The previous owner (PO) had just replaced the transaxle with one out of a ‘67 Ghia, and mentioned that the clutch was sloppy and needed adjustment. When I got it home it turned out the real problem was the clutch cable tube which had broken free inside of the tunnel at all three welds. But with a bit of careful welding and fabrication of new mounts, I was able to fix it, and she now shifts as good as new. I asked the PO to include the original transaxle in the sale. I now suspect that nothing was wrong with it as the clutch cable tube may have been the root of the problem Maybe one day I’ll get it back in.

The engine ran “ok” when I bought it, and the heads under the valve covers were very clean (which indicated a low mileage motor), but she really lacked power. I found that her distributor was allowing only 12 degrees of maximum advance, so I swapped it for a new one with electronic ignition that gave 25 degrees advance, all before 2700 rpm. I also found that the throttle cable was allowing only 2/3 of the required travel, so that was adjusted too. The carb jetting also was very lean, especially for having a header, so I rejetted the carb with fatter jets, performed a complete tune up and adjusted the valves.

Rosie runs really great now, and pulls 18″ of vacuum at idle, which is a sign of a very tight motor. I think she may have been rebuilt as a 1600cc single-port since 1600 and 8/31/07 is stamped on the bottom of the case. The motor case and car VIN match within 3 months of manufacture, so I believe it may be the original motor. I’m sending away for the Certificate of Authenticity to confirm.

I’ve refurbished the exterior the best I could by doing some careful touch up and paint blending. The paint on it looked to be about 25 years old, judging from the fading and all the dings and wear it had, but it was a good, solid paint job. I used Griot’s Correcting Cream to buff it out (it’s amazing stuff), and pulled the bumpers and running boards and refurbished them as well.

I’m slowly replacing all her seals. The doors, pop-outs, hood and trunk seal have been replaced. Next, I’ll do the windows and sunroof seals. The interior needs some work too. The seats have been recovered, but there is no headliner or carpet. In the Spring, when the weather is better, I will address those needs.

I have the original wheels and hubcaps, and plan to refurbish them as well. I was able to get a nice set of NOS beauty rings from Lane Russell, which will add some original bling to the wheels. The car came with a vintage German Kamei package shelf that was date-stamped 1967, so it’s possible it was sold with the car.

Rosie still is a work in progress, but at this point she really is a fun car to drive. She keeps up well with modern traffic and I use her for errands all the time. She is my “weekend” car when the weather is dry. She has great heat too, I drove her one night when it was 17 degrees here and she warmed up faster than my 2009 Mazda. I’ve had several mid-‘60s sedans in my day–comparing them to her, I can’t help but think that the 1967 VW Beetle must have been a stellar little car in its day when it was new.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/james-mitchell/feed/12http://1967beetle.com/james-mitchell/SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbeltshttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/yz3xFgBa0p4/
http://1967beetle.com/lobster-claw/#commentsSat, 10 Feb 2018 01:09:40 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21129--
You just finished reading "SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbelts" on 1967 VW Beetle! I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!
]]>
Our good friend and follower of 1967beetle.com, Gary Beck has a rare find for us today. If you know the ’67 Beetle, you know the correct and rare Lobster Claw seatbelts. These are original used German and still function perfectly. They retract as designed, and are ready to install in your pride and joy. Both install bolts are included.

]]>http://1967beetle.com/lobster-claw/feed/7http://1967beetle.com/lobster-claw/VW 105-1 30 Pict-1 Carburetor – The Choke Processes, Part Ihttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/XJalL3ekx3g/
http://1967beetle.com/processes/#commentsTue, 30 Jan 2018 19:57:30 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21110First, let’s examine the Choke Element: The Choke Element is a simplified heating element consisting of a tiny wire Coil much like the larger coils in a toaster or an electric space heater—but it is tiny. This Coil is housed inside a round metal and ceramic disc which has an Electrical Connector. Onto this Connector […]

]]>By the time Volkswagens were “in the womb”, carburetion was not a new thing. But the German Engineers tasked with creating a viable engine system for Ferdinand Porsche had to create a system that would work with the air-cooled engines which were being demanded. Bit by bit, the VW carburetors were evolving into what would become a virtually fool-proof unit.

With the advent of the 12 Volt Electrical System, Volkswagen was coming of age. Carburetion would be just one of the areas which would benefit—with better starting possibilities. Let’s look at the Choke Mechanism on the VW 105-1 30 Pict-1 Carburetor.

While there are several parts to the Choke Mechanism, it is relatively simple.

But first—what is meant by “choking the engine”? “Choking” might better be termed “restricting”—because that’s what’s happening. When the Engine is dead cold, the Fuel Mixture must be more “rich” in gasoline with less air. The Engine is “hungry”. So, by restricting (or choking) the in-coming air, this need can be met.

Eventually, in a matter of minutes, the Engine will be running well and will need more air in the Fuel Mixture as it begins to reach operational temperature. It will be “starving” for air. Now the restriction on air can be relaxed—the “choke-hold” can be relaxed and the Carburetor can seek its own Fuel Mixture levels as needed.

We will be examining only the Upper Half of a Carburetor during this discussion of the “processes” or elements which comprise the Choking Mechanism.

First, let’s examine the Choke Element: The Choke Element is a simplified heating element consisting of a tiny wire Coil much like the larger coils in a toaster or an electric space heater—but it is tiny. This Coil is housed inside a round metal and ceramic disc which has an Electrical Connector. Onto this Connector is connected a wire which comes from the Positive Pole (#15) Terminal of the Engine Coil. This is the power source for the Choke Element.

The Choke Element is grounded on the Carburetor, which is grounded to the Engine, which is grounded to the Chassis and so forth—completing the necessary electrical circuit.

Inside the Choke Element, is a Bi-metal Flat Spring with a hook on its loose end. Once the Key is turned to the On Position at the Ignition Switch, power flows to the Choke Element’s tiny wire Coil, causing it to glow. The glowing Element slowly heats the Bi-metal Spring, causing it to “relax” its hold on the Choke Plate Shaft Upper Arm—which allows the Choke Plate to open.

Sound complicated? It’s really not. It’s simply one thing causing another to react, doing the intended job. In the earlier years of carburetion, there had been a cable from a carburetor to the dash knob of a vehicle—any vehicle. The driver would pull the knob, activating the manual choke—restricting air flow into the carburetor. As the engine warmed, the driver (when he remembered) would push the knob in, allowing more air to enter the carburetor. At age 14, this was how I did it on the family 1949 Ford V-8. I distinctly recall doing that operation, especially in cold weather.

Auto makers wanted to by-pass human thought in order to have the engine to automatically choke the carburetor. Thus, eventually, had been born the “Automatic Choke”.

That is the principle and that is the chief activation mechanism for the 30 Pict-1 Carburetor Choke.

Let’s look at the parts associated with the over-all Mechanism. I removed a Choke Plate and Shaft from a Carburetor for comparative purposes. In the photo below we can see the bare Shaft and Choke Plate.

Starting inside the Carburetor Choke Mechanism Recess on the Carburetor Housing, we find the end of the Choke Plate Shaft with the Upper Arm which the Bi-metal Spring activates during the heating process.

Working outward, we next see the Bakelite (plastic) Insulating Cup. The Cup has a tab which fits a groove inside the Housing to keep it in place. A slot allows the Choke Plate Shaft Upper Arm to protrude. The Bakelite Cup keeps heat from dissipating from the Heating Coil. Otherwise, heat loss would thwart the Heating Coil’s efforts upon the Choke Plate.

Next comes the Heating Element itself which is inserted into the Carburetor Housing. The Heating Element must be rotated so that the Bi-metal Spring Hook catches on the Choke Plate Shaft Upper Arm.

To secure the Heating Element to the Carburetor a metal Retaining Ring (or Bezel) with 3 holes fits over the Heating Element. Three Screws with 3 Plastic Cylindrical Spacers are used to secure the Bezel to the Carburetor Housing. Thus, the Heating Element can be rotated clockwise or counter-clockwise, as necessary, when adjusting it. Loosen the 3 Screws and the Heating Element can be rotated to the proper position. Then, the 3 Screws are tightened to fix the position of the Heating Element.

While this Process is activated……there is a Second Process at work. It is called the “Choke Pull-off Diaphragm” or the Vacuum Diaphragm. The purpose of this part is to “moderate” the action of the Choke Heating Element.

While the Choke Plate is Closed and the Fuel Mixture is “rich” in gasoline and “poor” in air, the Choke Heating Element is slowly relaxing its hold on the Closed Choke Plate.

During this slow heating-and-relaxing process, the Vacuum Diaphragm comes into play.

As the Accelerator Pedal is activated by the driver of the car, vacuum is achieved as air rushes through the Carburetor. Part of this vacuum “sucks” through various drillings (or passages) in the Body of the Carburetor. One of these drillings connects to the Vacuum Diaphragm. Vacuum “sucks” the Vacuum Diaphragm, pulling its Shaft.

As the Vacuum Diaphragm Shaft pulls, it catches the end of the Choke Plate Shaft Lower Arm so that the Choke Plate is pulled slightly open. Thus a bit more air can be sucked into the Carburetor as the car begins to drive and the Engine needs more air with the Fuel Mixture.

The operation of the Vacuum Diaphragm may seem to be insignificant. However, especially at start-up, it is needed to moderate the choking action exerted upon the Carburetor by the Heating Element.

There was no such apparatus on that afore-mentioned ’49 Ford. You pulled the choke knob and restricted the air to the fuel mixture more or less—as YOU thought necessary. There was no automatic “moderating” counter-force available.

Part II is coming. Part II will examine the Automatic Choke Adjustment Process.

My thanks to David Brown who graciously discussed Carburetor parts and, especially, the Vacuum Diaphragm and its necessary function.

Neva and I worked to get some photos to illustrate how everything goes together. There’s no better way to understanding something than to reduce it to its fundamental parts. Neva listened patiently as I used her as a captive audience while I explained parts and functions. Now—that’s a dedicated wife and VW enthusiast!

]]>http://1967beetle.com/processes/feed/18http://1967beetle.com/processes/SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbeltshttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/ericshoemakerblog/~3/q6G6i-zBWCs/
http://1967beetle.com/lobster/#respondMon, 29 Jan 2018 00:39:37 +0000http://1967beetle.com/?p=21101--
You just finished reading "SOLD – ’67 Beetle Lobster Claw Seatbelts" on 1967 VW Beetle! I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!
]]>If you know the ’67 Beetle, you know the correct and rare Lobster Claw seatbelts. These are original used German and still function perfectly. They retract as designed, and are ready to install in your pride and joy. Both install bolts are included.