Contributed Comments

Comments: It looks to me like the green rope(s) are hanging from the GT rappel station, while the obvious vertical red rope is hanging from the mid-cliff bolts. They are over the route Kama Sutra or so.

There is a fainter red rope behind both of those that follows the traversing first pitch of Maria.

Comments: I changed the name of this entry to King of P, as Dick called it that in his most recent book. The second pitch described here is still Little White Mushroom, so I've noted that in the description.

Comments: If someone has pre-dated ascent info, post it up, and we'll add it. For now, I've added a "first reported" to the FA line here. Like so many lines, it may well have been climbed before, but props to Serge for heading up into the unknown.

Comments: NB - I did a bunch of editing today, incorporating suggestions and descriptions from above along with my own experience. I also omitted directions to rappel for reasons.

Hopefully next summer I'll add a picture of the route base.

When I first climbed this route aeons ago, we exited left (!) out of the dihedral at the top - it was probably just as good as going right, an exciting 5.fun traverse. With, of course, darkness falling on a party of four.

Comments: NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').

I hand-traversed on the rail below the climber's feet (so I did not get the piece under the roof to his right, but got some smaller stuff in the horizontal), then went up the arete to where he is. Was a nice few moves.

Comments: According to the guidebook, this was named after the incident with the bus and the hairpin turn on 44/55 in 1981, when the bus was left hanging in space. I wonder if there are pictures in the interwebs somewhere ...

Comments: You could do Bloody Mary and yank yer rope over below the Drunkard's roof; that route's second pitch traverses almost all the way over to below Drunkard's. I'd be willing to bet you could start up Sixish and wander over there as well. The face is less steep once you get 40-ish feet up. But you'd be tying up several routes at once, so ... consider that.

Comments: Brian, you're right, and I think I remember that way long ago the first time I climbed there, we did climb a separate first pitch to the right (traversing from the pedastal, maybe?). Then on subsequent visits, the face to the right looked like it had more lichen then protection. I'll take a look at the books and try to straighten it out.

Comments: While most of this pitch was fairly easy, there were a few moves that were surprisingly steep and demanding. Overall, fairly pleasant, and a worthwhile diversion. It will only improve with more traffic.