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Who saw this coming? Kelis’s first album in four years is a classic soul record produced by TV On The Radio's Dave Sitek. And it’s great.

‘Food’ rings with the self-assurance of an artist who knows that she can go anywhere – and fully intends to. There are ghost traces of Gil Scott-Heron and Stevie Wonder on tracks like ‘Jerk Ribs’ (video below). Elsewhere, Labi Siffre cover ‘Bless The Telephone’ sounds, unexpectedly, like the best Simon & Garfunkel song Paul and Art never recorded.

‘Food’ is a fabulous and immediate record, rich with muted brass and low-key electronics. It’s also the warmest, most relaxed and purely enjoyable thing Kelis has ever done. Wonderful.