Looking ahead to barbecue season, vegetarians can sometimes feel left out because it's a challenge to find a protein that takes to the smoke and char.

One good choice is extra- or super-firm tofu, which is sturdy enough to handle some time on the grill. This versatile food also has the chameleon-like ability to take on flavor from marinades, dry rubs and sauces.

Using a combination of these methods gives this otherwise bland protein enough zip to hold its own with any side dish on your plate. Start by rinsing and drying the tofu to help it absorb the marinade, then add a light spice rub to help it form a crust.

The accompanying recipe for grilled tofu uses ingredients from all regions of my spice cabinet: soy sauce, thyme and wine in the marinade; smoked paprika, Chinese five-spice and cumin in the rub; and chipotles in adobo, coconut milk and Asian salted black beans in the sauce.

A bed of slaw made from napa cabbage provides a cool, crunchy counterpoint to the umami-packed tofu, though any moderately flavored side dish will provide balance. The tofu's sauce is the most assertive element in the dish, which you should keep in mind when selecting a wine.

A full-bodied, fruity, low-tannin red such as a Grenache will match well with this dish. Or serve a Long Island Iced Tea or perhaps an Arnold Palmer.

Grilled Tofu With Spicy Black Bean Sauce

Serves 3-4

Extra firm or super firm tofu is easiest to grill; firm will also work, but it will be more challenging to grill. Serve with cole slaw. Napa Cabbage Slaw (see recipe) is a little different than the usual green cabbage version.

1/2 teaspoon chopped chipotle in adobo including some of the sauce to taste

1/2 to 1 teaspoon hoisin sauce

-- Rice vinegar, to taste

For the marinade and tofu: In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, red wine, thyme, bay leaf and honey; set aside.

Cut the tofu into 4 rectangular pieces about 3/4-inch thick. Use paper towels to press and pat dry. Put tofu and marinade into a heavy-duty Ziploc-style plastic bag, remove as much air as possible, and seal. Turn bag to coat all sides and marinate at room temperature - about 20 to 30 minutes - turning after about halfway through.

For the dusting mixture: Combine smoked paprika, cumin and 5-spice in a small dish; set aside.

For the sauce: In a small skillet or saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add the black bean beans or sauce and cook briefly until aromatic. Add garlic, ginger and 1 tablespoon coconut milk; cook until coconut milk reduces a little. Stir in the brown sugar and chipotle in adobo, remove from heat and transfer to a mortar and pestle. Mash until fairly smooth.

Return the mixture to the still-warm saucepan; stir in the hoisin and remaining coconut milk, and mix well. If desired, add rice vinegar to taste; add more coconut milk as needed for desired consistency. Keep sauce warm but do not boil or the sauce will break.

To finish: Heat grill to medium high; oil grates. Remove the tofu from marinade, drain, and then dust with the prepared spice mixture. Grill to form a light crust, flipping once. Serve warm or room temperature with some of the warm sauce.

Per serving: 98 calories, 9 g protein, 5 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (2 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 88 mg sodium, 0 g fiber. The calories and other nutrients absorbed from marinades and syrups vary and are difficult to estimate. Therefore, the marinade is not included in the analysis.

Napa Cabbage Slaw

Napa cabbage has a milder flavor than the standard green cabbage. Any leftovers would be good atop roast pork or barbecue pork sandwiches.

1 pound napa cabbage

1 large carrot

1 large green onion

1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons mayonnaise

4 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar

3/4 teaspoon Asian fish sauce

1/2 teaspoon Asian-style toasted sesame seed oil

-- Freshly ground black pepper

-- Kosher salt to taste

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, optional garnish

-- Toasted sesame seeds, optional garnish

Instructions: Clean cabbage, remove core and thinly shred. Peel carrot and cut into thin matchsticks or coarsely grate and add to the cabbage along with paper-thin diagonal slices of green onion - both the green and white part. Toss together.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, fish sauce and sesame seed oil. Season to taste with pepper, plus a pinch of salt if needed.

Scrape dressing onto the cabbage and toss together. Garnish with cilantro and sesame seeds, if using. The salad can be made a little ahead. Serve chilled.