Specializing in sewing, soldering and snacking. More stuff I do... I teach an interactive fashion and textile class called Wearable and Soft Interactions at California College of the Arts.
www.wearablesoftinteractions.us

Heehee. Hi! [wave]. Miss you too! At the moment I only have two modules: the Erica VCO pictured and the Erica Synths DIY VCF. I also have the Moog Werkstatt-01 which was the VIP build at Moogfest from 2014 that they sold at the fest last year. http://www.werkstattworkshop.com/ It has female header output/inputs for connecting breadboarded circuits to. I made some male header/alligator clip to mono 1/8" plugs so I can patch to my analog modules. All my analog mod peeps are like "this is the wrong hobby to get into if you want to save money". It's true, tho I've done a good job not purchasing more modules which is crazy cause I'm missing a lot to have a proper synth setup. If I didn't have my Werkstatt-01 I wouldn't be able to do anything. Although I'm missing basics, I re...

Heehee. Hi! [wave]. Miss you too! At the moment I only have two modules: the Erica VCO pictured and the Erica Synths DIY VCF. I also have the Moog Werkstatt-01 which was the VIP build at Moogfest from 2014 that they sold at the fest last year. http://www.werkstattworkshop.com/ It has female header output/inputs for connecting breadboarded circuits to. I made some male header/alligator clip to mono 1/8" plugs so I can patch to my analog modules. All my analog mod peeps are like "this is the wrong hobby to get into if you want to save money". It's true, tho I've done a good job not purchasing more modules which is crazy cause I'm missing a lot to have a proper synth setup. If I didn't have my Werkstatt-01 I wouldn't be able to do anything. Although I'm missing basics, I reeeally want the Data module from Mordax: http://www.mordax.net/products/data

I understand, soft circuits are a challenge to build. Hopefully, a good one :)Your project looks fantastic! Do you have prior experience with sewing? When just the cable provides power the switch needs to be towards ON to power the board and CHG to power off. The same goes for the battery. If it's charged... I'm not sure why it wouldn't be working if it works fine with the USB cable. It makes me question the battery if it's not your circuit (such as a short occurring). Have you tried another battery? When the battery and USB cable are both attached the battery charges regardless of what the switch is on. You can find this information here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardLilyPad...Under the Power heading.

This looks great by the way! The shoulder movement will produce a smaller range. The torso provides a nice sharp curve while the shoulder is a larger arc and smaller. It looks like you are already wearing a fitted a shirt which is essential to get a good reading. I suggest trying a strong double-sided tape to stick the whole back surface of the sensor to the fitted shirt. As opposed to the velcro which may stiffen the sensor more making it harder to bend. You can even try it straight on the skin. The more it moves with to the body, the smaller the movements it will be able to pick up. The tape is good for prototyping, if you want to go more permanent I suggest a strong glue covering the whole back surface and perhaps a sew around the edges just in case.

Good question. The Velostat used to create the handmade sensor goes down in resistance when bent and force is applied so the voltage will go up. This is different than an off-the-shelf flex sensor that goes up when bent causing the voltage to go down. Your handmade sensor is working as it should. Looking back, I don't point out this difference between the two explicitly so I'm glad you asked so I can make it clearer. If you hook up the multimeter to the off-the-shelf and your homemade and set it to read resistance you will see that one goes down and one goes up when bent.