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JJW8530BAW Jenn-Air Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for JJW8530BAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Oven not holding 350 F, when cooling the coils did not reheat

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the oven.2. Opened oven door used a phillips screwdriver to remove four black screws from under the top panel.3. Lifted panel slightly & removed from oven.Removed four screws using 1/4" nut driver to remove old display unit. Disconnected three wire harnesses.4. Connected three wire harnesses to new display unit & replaced four nut screws. 5. Hang the top panel on the top of oven & replace four screws removed in step 2.6. Turn on the circuit breaker for the oven.("Very easy! I'm a 63 yr. old woman!)

F1-1 code

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

First I turned off the power at the breaker. Then I removed the 4 screws holding the panel in. These screws are located under the panel and accessed when the oven door is opened. The only caution is not to take all the screws out. Just the 4 that hold in the front panel.The panel came off by lifting it and pulling it slightly forward. Then I removed the 3 wiring harnesses. I then used a 1/4 inch socket wrench to remove the (4) screws and replaced the clock unit with the new one. I tightened the 4 screws, re-installed the wiring harnesses and swung the panel back in place . I then locked it in place with the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel. When I turned on the power and my wife saw the lit up clock she was so happy! End of story.

Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Oven door doesn't completely close, light stays on

I replaced the hinges on the door, it wasn't that hard to do, a couple of minor things I had to overcome. But the new hinges still don't close the door completely. The light still comes on. I don't think the springs in the hinges are strong enough.

I asked for a particular part number in my order, the sales rep, said that wasn't the correct part number, and gave me a different part number. Now I'm not sure if the sales rep gave me the correct part or not.

Either way, I spent money for new hinges, and my own labor, and I still have the same problem.

I've placed calls with Jenn-air, and local technicians, but so far, do not have a solution to my problem. So overall, I'm not very happy.

Oven door wouldn't close completely

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

defective oven sensor

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

This was soooo easy, yes even you Mr. All thumbs, can do it. First it was nice to receive the exact parts I needed from PartsSelect. I needed to take the 4 screws that held the wall oven in place and pull it out about 1". Then, using a battery powered screw driver I removed 4 screws for under the Clocks panel, (you'll need to open the door, can you handle that?). After you've done that simply lift the Glass up and off by grasping the panel and with thumbs on the bottom tilt bottom toward you as you lift up, comes right off. Now disconnect the wire ribbons (4 of them) to seperate the panel from the oven and set the panel down on a towel on the table. Now using a nut driver take out 4 "nuts" and replace the clock card. Be sure to wipe off the INSIDE of the glass panel while you have the card out, and wipe the cards glass so the digital readout will be crystal clear. Re-assemble in the reverse order and you are done. Should take you less then 15 minutes and your wife will think you are a hero! (or you wives can do it and impress the husband!)

Constant beeping with error displayed; started during self-cleaning; could not reset

Unscrew the (built-in) oven from the wall / cabinet (4 screws). Unscrew the cover in front at top where the LED display is held, and pull it back, then pull two sets of wires off of the LED display PCB, so it can be put aside. Pull the oven out of the cabinet, sit it on a chair (because the 240V power feed metal cable is still attached). Unscrew the 7 1/4th-inch hex head screws holding the metal top cover on; remove the cover, which exposes the wires and sensors, etc. Unscrew the "relay board" PCB (1 screw) and detach it from the side, leaving all wires attached to the terminals. Then, one by one, remove the wires from the old PCB and attach them to the corresponding terminal on the new, replacement PCB. Screw the new PCB back onto the side of the oven top inside, screw the top metal cover back on, attach the wires to the front panel LCD and then screw the front panel back on. Push the oven back into the hole in the cabinet and screw it into the wood on the side and bottom (6 screws total).

Finally, turn the power back on (flip the circuit breaker on). Then observe: your oven is now no longer a digital boat anchor!

The only reason it took me longer than 30 minutes to finish this was that I had to recruit someone to help me lift the oven out of its cabinet. After doing so, however, I realized that I could have done it all by myself, simply by sliding it out onto a box or chair, but I didn't realize that ahead of time. It's not really that very heavy (but I would not recommend anyone who's not strong trying to do it alone, regardless). Anyway, if I had to do it again, it would only take about 10-15 minutes to accomplish.

The part itself colst about $180. When my usually very reasonably-priced appliance repairman quoted a price of $450 to $500 to do this repair, even after I told him specifically which part was obviously bad (which he would have to order or pick it up), I decided that only an idiot would be unable to do this repair by himself.

Code said we needed a sensor

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

oven door gasket was no longer flexible, but stiff

pulled out the old door gasket, it had little diamond-shaped clips, pulled out really easily, replaced with the new gasket. All the clips fit into the proper holes, stuffed the new ends where the old ones were. Perfect. less than 10 minutes. Thanks....

Oven door hinges broken

Removed the door then the end caps and inner panel then the hinge system and replaced with the one piece new set of hinges and back together done in 30 to 45 minutes The new parts were a perfect replacement.