Royal Enfield Queries

This is a discussion on Royal Enfield Queries within Motorbikes, part of the BHP India category; Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also ...

Also, a lot of mechanics (both, independent and associated with authorized service center) have mentioned that the EFI is also an issue and such problems don't occur with the older carbureted ones. How true is that?

IMO, based on what I've seen with my own fuel injected RE and read on a number of forums, the EFI system is proving to be far more reliable than a carburetor.

The few problems people are having is largely due to the poor quality of the fuel they are using. As navin_v8 said, an occasional use of a fuel injector cleaner by pouring a bit in the fuel tank when filling will keep the injector nice and clean. (This will also help to clean fouled up carburetor jets). (By occasional use, I mean, every 1000 km unless the engine isn't running like it should.)

The EFI unit tests the various sensors and itself, every time the ignition key is turned on.
If something is wrong with a sensor or the wiring connecting it, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will remain lit.

Finding the problem is not a big problem for any owner.

There is a single wire coming from the ECU that is not connected to anything.
Grounding this wire to the engine or frame and turning on the ignition switch, the MIL will begin flashing out a code in a series of short and long flashes.

Knowing the number of long and short flashes, it is an easy task to look up the meaning of the code and determine exactly where the problem lies. (There are people on this forum, including me, who will gladly tell you what the flashes mean if you experience this problem.)

Most of the errors detected by the ECU are due to a bad wiring connection between the unit and the sensor. Making sure the wire connection is clean and fully plugged in usually solves over 90 percent of the problems.
Also I should mention that if the problem is with the various sensors or their wiring connections, the ECU will revert to a pre-programed map and the engine will still run to get the rider home.
The only errors I've seen that kept the engine from running was a fuel pump or crankshaft position sensor fault.

For actually plugging into the computer and reading the error codes directly, this takes a reader available only from Royal Enfield and it is VERY expensive. Keihin, the Japanese company that makes the ECU and fuel injector system doesn't want people to have access to the maps and inner workings of the units.
Very few Royal Enfield service stations have the device but as I said, it really isn't needed for most of the problems that come up.
This isn't necessary bad.
As I said, the unit self tests and will tell anyone where the problem is if they know how to read the code.

I would like to upgrade the Projector low beams with HIDs. It is possible? I mean, does the projector lens require changing of can I use the same lens and install a 6000k HID bulbs?

And also, does swapping the exhaust to some aftermarket stuff end the warranty of the bike? I am reluctant to go for the off-road exhaust as I feel its not vfm.

Kindly help.

Regards

Prasanth Krishnan

I would recommend all modifications only after warranty period.

Royal Enfield bikes depend purely on your luck. You might get a great bike which wont trouble you at all for a long time or you might get a bike which will be very notorious and will give nightmares. Hence the warranty is essential to rule out all these niggles.

I would like to upgrade the Projector low beams with HIDs. It is possible? I mean, does the projector lens require changing of can I use the same lens and install a 6000k HID bulbs?

The Tbird stock headlight is good enough for city riding. If you really want illumination look for LED lights which are readily available and consumes less power while giving good illumination.

Quote:

And also, does swapping the exhaust to some aftermarket stuff end the warranty of the bike? I am reluctant to go for the off-road exhaust as I feel its not vfm.

Mate first of all why would you want to change the stock exhaust? Well if you plan to do long rides then the stock exhaust is the best as the muffled sound will not bang your ears during those long rides. My suggestion for you is to spend some time with stock exhaust for at least a month and then take a call.

The Tbird stock headlight is good enough for city riding. If you really want illumination look for LED lights which are readily available and consumes less power while giving good illumination.

I want to maintain the stock look at the same time increase the illumination. Also those white leds' doesn't help when driving through fog.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate first of all why would you want to change the stock exhaust? Well if you plan to do long rides then the stock exhaust is the best as the muffled sound will not bang your ears during those long rides. My suggestion for you is to spend some time with stock exhaust for at least a month and then take a call.

I find the stock exhaust too muted for my liking. It sounds like the early version of Splendour. And I am not into long distance riding hence adding a little more thump will be loved.

So,about 12 days ago my bike started stuttering again and would't start easily.I decided to pull out the spark plugs and inspect them.
I couldn't get the right hand side spark plug out but I managed to get the left one out and sure enough it was very sooty.

I cleaned the plug's tip with a wire brush and before installing it back,I connected it to the plug lead and cranked the engine to check for a good spark.The spark produced seemed fine(to me,at least) so I installed it in the engine.
Upon cranking the engine,it refused to start and made an unusual clunking sound.

I have been unable to get a hold of my mechanic as he is out of the city for some reason,so,my bike has been just sitting there for about 12 days.
How can I get my bike started?
Now,coming to the cause of these sooty plugs-

1. A choked air filter was eliminated as the air filter seemed fine upon visual
inspection and I had cleaned it with a leaf blower for good measure.

As you have found, cleaning the carbon off of a spark plug with a wire brush often will not fix the problem.

Electricity will take the path of least resistance to get to ground.

If the center electrode is covered with carbon, it is sometimes easier to use the carbon to get to ground than it is for it to jump the gap at the electrode tip.

In the case of your plug, when you used a wire brush to clean off the carbon you removed the carbon at the tip but I would bet that most of the ceramic insulator down inside still had a layer of carbon the brush could not reach.

When you cranked the engine and saw the spark jumping the gap it shows that you did remove enough of the carbon to begin to fix the problem. That said, the problem still existed.

One of the things to remember about electrical spark plugs is, the more compressed the air between the electrodes is, the more resistant it is to allowing a spark to pass thru it.

Out in the open air, the voltage needed to jump the gap is fairly low. Installed in an engine, the high compression in the cylinder caused the voltage needed to jump the spark plug's gap to be several times greater.

The higher voltage needed to jump the gap under compression, found the carbon remaining on the center electrode to be an easier path to follow than jumping the plug's gap so, the engine refused to fire.

Cleaning the fuel injector may help to reduce the carbon on your spark plug Either of the products you linked will do the job.
Just remember, those bottles are made for use in automobiles. Because your fuel tank is much smaller than a automobiles you will need to use a much smaller amount per tankful. Divide the size of your fuel tank by the number of gallons/liters the cleaner is made for. Then use the smaller percentage of the cleaner.

Based on your previous problems with plug fouling I think the main problem is with how you ride the motorcycle.
I may be wrong but if you mainly use your motorcycle for very short, very low speed rides and if you do these in higher gears so the engine is running slowly, the spark plug will never heat up enough to burn off the carbon. (Long idling times will also build up carbon on the plug.)

Try changing to a "hotter" spark plug.

As I said to you in post 2438,

"If I wanted a "hotter" plug, I would use a NGK BPR5ES. The lower number 5 in NGK plugs represents one step hotter than a a 6.
NGK high numbers are cold, low numbers are hot.

Bosch on the other hand uses the opposite numbering system with its low numbers being cold and high numbers are hot.
If your engine is using a Bosch plug with the number 7, a hotter plug would be a number 8.

The "hotter" spark plug will burn off the carbon that can form on the center insulator and cause the plug to fail to spark.

Don't over do this heat range change. Going to a spark plug that is too hot can cause pre-ignition problems."

It may be a good idea to get one spark plug that is 1 heat range hotter and a second one that is 2 heat ranges hotter than the plug that is presently installed.

Try the plug that is 1 heat range hotter and ride at least 300 km, Then pull the plug.

If it looks like carbon is building up on the new plug, try the plug that is 2 ranges hotter and ride for another 300 km.
Then, check this hotter plug.
If it looks white and blistered go back to the 1 step hotter plug. If it looks normal, you've found the answer to your problem.

Just don't take your motorcycle on any long, high speed rides without changing back to the original heat range spark plug.

As you have found, cleaning the carbon off of a spark plug with a wire brush often will not fix the problem.

When you cranked the engine and saw the spark jumping the gap it shows that you did remove enough of the carbon to begin to fix the problem. That said, the problem still existed.

The problem right now is that the engine is not starting at all,earlier it would at least start and run(albeit very inconsistently).Now,the engine makes strange clunking noises upon cranking(it is not the metallic TICK-TICK-TICK produced by the decompression valve) and doesn't start at all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Based on your previous problems with plug fouling I think the main problem is with how you ride the motorcycle.
I may be wrong but if you mainly use your motorcycle for very short, very low speed rides and if you do these in higher gears so the engine is running slowly, the spark plug will never heat up enough to burn off the carbon. (Long idling times will also build up carbon on the plug.)

I don't think that is an issue.Although I mainly use my bike to commute to and fro from my college,classes and run other errands,but I regularly(at least once a week) go on longer rides (60-150Kms long) where I maintain 60-80Km/h for the majority of the ride.

Hi All...
I would be moving from Hyderabad to Mumbai very soon on a 6 month project , will be back in Hyd early next year. I plan to take my Bullet STD 350 UCE along. I've heard the humid weather in Mumbai affects the iron/ metallic parts causing Rust ?
What are the preventive measures to be taken? To avoid Rust ?

The problem right now is that the engine is not starting at all,earlier it would at least start and run(albeit very inconsistently).Now,the engine makes strange clunking noises upon cranking(it is not the metallic TICK-TICK-TICK produced by the decompression valve) and doesn't start at all.

Mate I saw the videos you've posted where the electric start video shows you've not inserted the spark plug on the left. That the bike is cranking shows that the battery is good and the starter motor is working. To me it looks like a clogged fuel injector issue. A similar episode happened with a rider friend who owns a DS 500. Once his fuel injector was cleaned the bike was back to normal.

What worries me is the metallic sound that was coming when you tried kick starting the bike in the second video. I couldn't hear the same metallic rattling sound in the first video. If I am not wrong it might be the sprag clutch bearing that is acting up. If that's the case then your engine clutch casing needs to be opened and inspected.

Hi All...
I would be moving from Hyderabad to Mumbai very soon on a 6 month project , will be back in Hyd early next year. I plan to take my Bullet STD 350 UCE along. I've heard the humid weather in Mumbai affects the iron/ metallic parts causing Rust ?
What are the preventive measures to be taken? To avoid Rust ?

Mate I have been living in Bombay since my birth and haven't faced much issues with my fleet of RE's except a few nuts and bolts. The chrome quality on RE's especially the exhaust pipe, handlebar, headlight dome casing, wheels, etc. are of good quality and do not rust easily. The technique is to dust wipe the motorcycle daily and wash it (no pressure washing) 4 days a week. Remember to wipe it dry once you wash it. Using chrome polish to polish the metallic parts once a week will also help keep rust at bay.

There are some guys who powder coat their wheels, crash guards, handlebar, etc. to change the look which also helps fight rust. This is an expensive affair IMO and not required. If you are coming here for 6 months then it wont be a major issue if you clean and wipe your bike regularly.

I have ICICI Lombard two wheeler insurance for my Bullet and till now there has been no claims made. But when I renew the policy each year, I am not sure if I am getting any NCB or not? As far as the portal is concerned, there is nothing mentioned with regards to the NCB.

Casually I had asked one of the service technicians and he had mentioned that NCB can only be claimed if its done via an agent and not via the online portal.

Please throw some light into this topic.

P.S. :- posting the query here as all two wheeler insurance topics seems to in some hibernation mode. Please merge the query to related query if available.

I have ICICI Lombard two wheeler insurance for my Bullet and till now there has been no claims made. But when I renew the policy each year, I am not sure if I am getting any NCB or not? As far as the portal is concerned, there is nothing mentioned with regards to the NCB.

Casually I had asked one of the service technicians and he had mentioned that NCB can only be claimed if its done via an agent and not via the online portal.

Please throw some light into this topic.

P.S. :- posting the query here as all two wheeler insurance topics seems to in some hibernation mode. Please merge the query to related query if available.

The NCB is not given only in case of long term policies.

Since you are renewing every year then surely you are entitled to get the NCB whether from an agent or on portal.

The pattern of NCB for each unclaimed year is as follows:

First year - 0%
Second year - 20%
Third year - 25%
Fourth year - 35%
Fifth year - 45%
Sixth year - 50%
Seventh year onwards - 50% untill claimed.

This can also be transferred to your new vehicle if you have sold your old vehicle bearing the same owner name.

You can check the NCB will be mentioned on your policy below Basic OD premium.