Huitlacoche and Corn Casserole

I have been accused of being many things, but a timid eater is not one of them. I will try anything, (and will do my best to force it on others), which explains my delight in finding huitlacoche at a recent farmers market.

A member of the fungus species ustilago maydis, huitlacoche is also known as cuitlucoche, corn smut, devils corn, maize mushroom, and Mexican truffle.The name is derived from two words: cuitlatl (excrement) and cochi (sleeping). Now don’t you want to try it?

Technically, cuitlucoche is a fungus that grows on ears of corn. The Hopi, Zuni, and Aztec tribes have long considered it a delicacy, but farmers in the United States see it as a nuisance. Infected kernels expand as they fill with spores and become dark gray and black tumors or “galls.” Don’t let the appearance fool you, though. The smoky-sweet flavor, similar to mushrooms, is prized throughout Central America. It adds a delicious element to many recipes, especially chile-cheesy ones.

Fresh huitlacoche is available at some farmers’ markets in the late summer. You can also find it canned at most Latin American markets, although it’s not as good as fresh.