* Crítica

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Once, grilled snow crabs were served with a deliciously funky crab-innards sauce. Now the steamed legs of very recently living king crabs come with a saffron-colored slosh of melted butter sauce whipped with shaved bottarga.

Certainly, it is the first dining room in New York City where it is possible to sit in a leather captain’s chair licking caviar and parsnip granita from a mother-of-pearl spoon while across the room a Dolly Parton record spins on a turntable.