In Connecticut the sun never seems to set on a Max Restaurant Group eatery. That's a good thing because the far-flung satellites of the white-hot Max Downtown in Hartford are diverting destinations in and of themselves.

Max-a-Mia is no exception. When westward ho we go, it's usually to this Tuscan-inspired charmer with its cool bar, warm lighting and blazing brick oven. Whether it's a dainty salad (mixed greens and gorgonzola lightly misted with sherry vinaigrette) or a pig-out (a Paleolithic veal chop with shallot mashed potatoes) we're craving, Max-a-Mia has it -- and everything in between.

Chef Michael Lefebvre has toiled for a number of years here to make this Max moon shine consistently. We have him to thank for our Tuscan salads, stone pies and pasta dishes tasting ever bit as vibrant today as they did a decade ago. One bite of the Penne al Buttero and you know why it has stayed on the menu so long. The bowl of baked pasta (with Italian hot sausage, tomatoes and peas in a Parmigiano cream sauce) is comforting goodness. So what if it's 90 degrees outside? We still crave the Federa -- warm chunks of fresh mozzarella oozing from crispy prosciutto girdles set over an arugula salad.

Farmington Valley diners need not trek over the hill to enjoy the chophouse classics found on the Max Downtown menu. Since April they've become a popular staple at Max-a-Mia -- New York strip steaks, pork loin chops and veal loin chops served with shallot demi-glaze and one side dish. A few recent menu tweaks resulted in nifty new additions, including corkscrew pasta with grilled spring vegetables, mozzarella and lemon-basil gremolata; and the ``earth and turf'' entree of grilled petit filet mignon and a meaty portobello mushroom.

Be sure to check out the daily blue-plate specials. I'm bummed out I missed Monday's spaghetti and meatballs. That and a glass of Brunello (hey, you might as well go for la dolce vita) are enough to bring me back.