The following is an example of what happens when you clearly have too much time on your hands:

Awhile back, I bought a Nikon to m43 adapter. I've never really used it, but, today decided that it was time. I wanted to see just how difficult it would be to shoot birds with this lens attached to my EP-2.

The adapter makes this a manual focus only lens. But, you can get some decent photo results using this combo. The depth of field is very thin due to the set up I use to take bird photos. Greg has seen it so knows how it's done.

Yes, Titmouse and Black Capped Chickadees, while very common to the feeder, are extremely difficult to get completely in focus and sharp throughout.
That's as you mentioned, Greg is 'cause their so darned quick.

They fidget and jump, grab a seed and fly off, often before I've had a chance to press the shutter.

I posted this primarily for those interested in knowing what is capable with the E-P2, E-PL2/3 bodies. Provided you have a decent lens, you should be able to get some very good images. Just be prepared for some frustrations starting out.

Also, my suggestion is to set the camera for manual focus and focus the camera where you know the bird is going to be most of the time. A feeder like the one in the image helps because you know where the bird is going to land. Once you have the lens focused, it's a matter of your ability to press the shutter without shaking the camera.

A tripod is a must in this kind of set up. When you first start, if you get 5 out of 100 keepers, you should be happy with those numbers.

Another point for using the older primes, when used on our m4/3 cameras, our image sensor is working with the central area of the lens, the sharpest point of the lens. Very little if any chromatic, pincushion, barrel distortion.
If the lens was known for its sharpness and clarity, on the m4/3 it can really shine. I love using my old Nikkors, though they do have some weight compared to the native M4/3 lens

Another point for using the older primes, when used on our m4/3 cameras, our image sensor is working with the central area of the lens, the sharpest point of the lens. Very little if any chromatic, pincushion, barrel distortion.
If the lens was known for its sharpness and clarity, on the m4/3 it can really shine. I love using my old Nikkors, though they do have some weight compared to the native M4/3 lens

And this 300mm f4 of Zig's is one of the newer ones....an AF-S (I believe) Nikkor, not one of the old manual focus, pre-ED versions that's just a so-so lens.

Another point for using the older primes, when used on our m4/3 cameras, our image sensor is working with the central area of the lens, the sharpest point of the lens. Very little if any chromatic, pincushion, barrel distortion.
If the lens was known for its sharpness and clarity, on the m4/3 it can really shine. I love using my old Nikkors, though they do have some weight compared to the native M4/3 lens