Wednesday, 17 September 2014

The mouth-watering, refined quenelle de Lyon indeed accounts
for the culinary jewels of the Rhone Alpes region. This subtle mousse cake
called "quenelle" is traditionally made out with pike and served in a
delicate, creamy Nantua sauce. These quenelles de brochet are definitely one of
the reasons for Lyon's reputation when it comes to food and gastronomy in
France!

The well-known quenelles from Lyon are famous for their
delicate mousse consistency and subtle taste of fish. The word
"quenelle" is believed to originate from the German
"knodel" meaning dumpling, but the Lyon recette has actually no
equivalent in other countries - and even in French gastronomy.

The quenelles de brochet indeed represent the authentic
Lyonnais cooking, made out with really local ingredients amongst which pike,
usually fished in Rhone Alps streams, and free-range eggs from the neighbouring
French region of Bresse renowned for its quality poultry. Freshwater crayfish
is another essential element of the quenelle dish since it composes the creamy
Nantua sauce traditionally accompanying the pike dumplings.

Although Lyon cooking is - unduly - often considered as
being rich and coarse, the typical quenelle's recipe requires precise
techniques and know-how. The preparation is actually divided into three
specific steps: the panade (smooth paste of eggs, butter and flour), the farce
(panade mixed with diced fish fillet, butter and a touch of nutmeg) and finally
the roll-shaped quenelles that are to be poached.

Some locals from Rhone Alpes commonly serve the pike
quenelles with a simple butter sauce, whilst French Chefs prefer to complement
the dish with a refined lobster or crayfish Nantua cream.

To make quenelles, grind pike in food processor, or use a
tamis if you have one. Set aside.

Bring water to a boil. Sift in flour & stir until water
is absorbed. Keep stirring so that mixture doesn't stick to pan. Remove from
heat & beat in 1 egg. Cool mixture, then refrigerate until cold. Remove
mixture from refrigerator & blend it in food processor until smooth. This
is the panade.

Cream butter in small bowl. Put ground pike in bowl that is
set inside another bowl of ice. Season w/salt & pepper, mix in panade,
& gradually add other whole egg & all egg yolks. When blended well, add
butter. This can be done in food processor if all ingreds are kept cold. Chill
mixture for 30 mins.

To make white sauce, place chicken stock in heavy saucepan
over medium heat. Bring to simmer, then reduce heat & continue to simmer on
low until stock is reduced down to 1 cup liquid, abt. 45 mins.

In large saucepan over med. heat, reduce cream until it
begins to thicken, whisking occasionally.

whisk thickened cream into stock, adding more or less cream,
deepending on desired consistency. Season w/salt & pepper to taste. Strain
sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, if desired. Makes 2 cups.

To assemble dish, shape quenelles by mounding mixture
between 2 warmed spoons. Set each quenelle on floured surface.