The most economical solution, for me, was to purchase a "SPROG II" device. It is an interface between a programming track and my home PC and/or laptop. The device was around $90 if memory serves.

The programming software (JMRI) is free and must be downloaded to your computing device after you obtain a SPROG or similar device.

Then all you need is a section of track long enough to hold your longest locomotive. The track is connected to the SPROG by two wires. The SPROG interfaces with the computer with a USB-type connector (included in the SPROG package).

Once everything is up and running, you can program to your heart's content. Not the most user friendly thing in the world, but I've seen worse.

Using this method, you can keep your EZ command to run the layout, and have a programming system separate from the layout.

Myself, I use EZ Command, because I DO like running a DC on my DCC layout, because Bachmann says I can! (I'll run a Norris, or my Gandy Dancer... or if I get something new that isnb't DCC yet, I'll toss it up on the layout)

As for programming... I found a Digitrax PR3Xtra to be very useful, and it was only $40. I have a small bit of programming track on my desk that doubles as a display track. If I need to program something, I just toss it on the program track, fire up the PR3Xtra, and open up JMRI.

I am considering amrc prodigy explorer and using a selector to switch to my trvh y when Iwant to run the analog locos.

It would be safer to disconnect one system and then connect the other, or at least keep the unused one unplugged from the wall. It'll save a lot of agony the first time you accidentally fire up the DCC with analog locos on the track.

I used an Atlas #205 'Connector' wired backwards on my HO test track when my repair shop was open. The track connected to the terminals the wiring diagram shows the power pack connected to. I had a DC power pack, a DCC system, and a 'Protosound' system connected to what were supposed to be the track terminals.

I put 3 small nails in the board it was mounted to, with a rubberband from each nail to it's corresponding switch to keep it in the 'OFF' position when not in use, and prevent accidentally turning more than one switch 'ON'.

You can use a double throw switch, center is off up is dcc,down is dc with a indicator light when it is in dc. Have all the auto reverse units running through it for dcc. Funny if don't do it like this and run a dc loco,, the dc loco it will reverse direction as soon as it hits a isolated section in opposite polarity and back and forth in that section. Guess it could work for a point to point layout but not recommended for a continuous circle.