I checked VW Vortex and saw that I went through this last time at 7900 miles. This is getting scary. Luckily, still under warranty. Can't wait to see what the dealership says since they already supposedly replaced the intake manifold with the updated part last time.

Flapper motor recall

I have a 2010 Passat with the 2.0 motor & the DSG. My car has always (since new) been very grabby & lurched at lower speeds - very annoying at low speeds. I had it to the the dealer many times ( the service manager actually drove the car himself for a few days). I really thought it was the DSG or the mechatronics unit. I learned to live with it, but did not always feel the love for the car. At 45k, a coil pack went & they replaced it N/C (I have the Platinum extended warranty to 100K - but they said it was factory warranteed). Last week (at 50K), another coil pack went. They replaced it N/C, but also replaced the entire intake manifold & flapper motor - THE CODE FINALLY SHOWED UP - (all N/C - not even the $100 deductible). WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The car feels 99% better & light years better in the drivability category. The service manager said he never heard of this result from this recall - but he has done quite a few! Kudos to Reydel VW in Edison, NJ - WAY COOL!.

I have a 2010 Passat with the 2.0 motor & the DSG. My car has always (since new) been very grabby & lurched at lower speeds - very annoying at low speeds. I had it to the the dealer many times ( the service manager actually drove the car himself for a few days). I really thought it was the DSG or the mechatronics unit. I learned to live with it, but did not always feel the love for the car. At 45k, a coil pack went & they replaced it N/C (I have the Platinum extended warranty to 100K - but they said it was factory warranteed). Last week (at 50K), another coil pack went. They replaced it N/C, but also replaced the entire intake manifold & flapper motor - THE CODE FINALLY SHOWED UP - (all N/C - not even the $100 deductible). WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! The car feels 99% better & light years better in the drivability category. The service manager said he never heard of this result from this recall - but he has done quite a few! Kudos to Reydel VW in Edison, NJ - WAY COOL!.

So they replaced the intake manifold bc a code showed up or is there some recall on the flapper motor?

Also, could you explain in a bit more detail what sort of drivability issues you were having at low speeds? Would you describe them as "hesitations" or "hiccups"? Did they occur at specific rpms? Did hot temps make them worse?

It pretty much happened at low speeds (crawling in traffic. start/stop in town, etc.). If I was at a stop in traffic on the hwy & took my foot off the brake, the car would surge forward, & get real grabby like the trans (or the clutch packs) were slipping. Turn a corner & when you put your foot on the gas it would grab kinda hard (very annoying). Hot or cold didn't matter. Sometimes (this is weird) when I put it in reverse, it would take a good few seconds before it would grab (now it goes it quite a bit quicker). Like I said it's not perfect, but I think that now it is fixed - this is how the car should be. I was thinking of trading it in before this (to sell on my own - I think if someone did a test drive, they would notice the jerkiness - my wife hated it), now I think I'll keep it. Hope the gas mileage improves also. I average 27 MPG with "spirited highway/local driving". Also wish the A/C got colder (it's been checked). This was not the greatest year for the Passat as it is a bit of a mishmosh of parts from previous years (there is no 2011) as they knew a big redesign was in the works for 2012. What can you do??!!

UPDATE: Just back from dealer. The CEL was off but I told them it was probably in memory and that I had used my Vag-Com. They found the code. Same problem. Another new intake manifold. I told them of my displeasure. Am I going to need a new intake manifold every year? Anyway, they also did the 30K service. So let's see how long this intake manifold lasts...I hope this is not a recall type situation.

UPDATE: Just back from dealer. The CEL was off but I told them it was probably in memory and that I had used my Vag-Com. They found the code. Same problem. Another new intake manifold. I told them of my displeasure. Am I going to need a new intake manifold every year? Anyway, they also did the 30K service. So let's see how long this intake manifold lasts...I hope this is not a recall type situation.

When you had yours replaced before it might have been before the revised intake manifold came out.

Add me to the list of Intake Manifold failures. Engine would stutter and want to stall when stopped. It does not idle correctly. On the streets and freeway, it would go ok. Just not when it is stopped.

I'm going to give the VW dealership a call tomorrow to see about a fix. Hopefully I can get this resolved.

Are these intake manifolds generally in stock in their parts dept? This is showing as a 3.3 hour job for a technician in a repair manual. Is this accurate?

Just got a call from the dealership and it is the intake manifold. Pretty cool dealership because they told me right off the bat that if it's the intake manifold, warranty will take car of it. I didn't have to say anything about warranty or fight about it.

Check the part number after they replace it. See if it matches my first replacement intake or my second replaced intake part. I'm hoping it matches the second, which would give us both hope that that is the proper/updated part number.

After reading your post I think it's safe to say mechanic error may have played a part in your repairs.

The FSI is known for flap failure as well as the tsi only difference is the Flapper on the FSi can be replaced without doing the whole manifold while the TSI requires the entire manifold to be replaced. I had to replace my TSI manifold once and when I got in there there was a good deal of residue from the PVC system. People will tell you a catch can will solve this but that is false; I've come accross plenty of people with catch cans who have the same issue. All direct injection cars will have carbon residue buil up on intake valves and parts with or without a catch can so do yourself a favor and don't spend the big $$ on a useless part. People will show you pictures of gunk and tell you it's worth every penny but your car burns those vapors off.

Yes I agree that the mechanic going "by the books" could have skipped some of this nonsense but now that all that is replaced ( two flapper motors, wiring harness, ecu) do you agree that the last thing to point at is the intake manifold?

Thanks to all here - a couple of questions

Will do. From my research, it looks like this is not a totally un-common problem, but from what I can tell most if not all were w/in the warranty period(s) which is just our luck it seems...

The new intake is ~$145 from 1stvwparts, so I guess any type of repair is not really worth it. It appears from the pic of the part on ECS that it comes with the vacuum actuator as well as the solenoid valve (which was my concern). Since it appears to be a bit of a pain job, I will likely replace. Possibly already revisions on the assy. 06J133201G -> link to ECS -> http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/06J_133_201_G/ES251176/, but they are more than 1stvw.

I did try one last attempt though. This time with some WD40 and compressed air on the actuator shaft while attached to a manual vacuum pump to activate the flap to a fro about 100 times. It seems to work better, but the sound of plastic to plastic seems to be what is likely causing the sticking over time and possibly due to wear of the shaft.

I will post as things develop, but one more time the code it thrown and a new intake will be in store... sigh

Shawn

Not all. Our '08 2.0T Passat Wagon just had this happen at 90K.

Originally Posted by Boosted2003!

Fuel pumps don't have any real issues anymore.

that would be nice. But the high pressure pump quit in ours at 80K. We needed it back quick so I wasn't able to get to it myself... but $750 for the dealer installed FP... ouch! I'll be doing it myself next time as long as I'm at home and we aren't in a jam.

Anyway, I replaced the intake assy which comes with all sensors and the solenoid for the flap, etc.

With only 45k, I was shocked to see the buildup of thick gunk on the flaps, diverter plates, head ports and valves. I literally spent 2 hours cleaning this stuff out... Valves closed of course, port by port.

I guess a catch can might be a good investment. The car is completely stock and meticulously maintained... FYI

The job would be fairly straight forward if there was an easy way to get to the p/s rear Throttle body bolt . I wasn't removing those coolant lines, but it definitely would have made it easier.

2000ft rundown in case you need to change it out yourself.
[snip...]
I am sure I am missing something as I am going from memory, but this will get you 99% there if you are mechanically inclined.

Thank you!!!

Originally Posted by piperpilot964

Had a chat with the service guys concerning what was really done when mine was replaced last month. Apparently the intake has been redesigned to strengthen the point where the flapper motor linkage connects to the actuating shaft. So they should be replacing the whole intake when the flapper acts up.

Very interesting - so should I just replace the intake?

Originally Posted by sdezego

I think VW is keeping the price of the whole intake assy low (much like the MKIV Cops) to elude some of the hassle Not that it looks like a super expensive part, but the one solenoid alone sells for ~$80 and the whole intake was as mentioned with the pos sensor, actuator, solenoid, etc, etc. Seems like a typical $500 VW overpriced part.

Didn't even think about the PT warranty to be honest, just needed it fixed and since the mechanical part is no problem for me, It was cheap enough just to fix. I did mention it to the tech there though and he said to just keep the receipt in case they issue a TSB/recall down the road. I did this on the Fuel pump on my MkII Scirocco back in the day some 5 years after the recall

Any tips on where to get VW parts for less than dealer walk-in rates?

Thanks for keeping this forum alive guys. I don't use it much and overall we haven't needed much, but whenever I have questions it's always here!!!

it really isnt the debris that is the problem. in all honesty, its just the manufacturing of the electrical components. the fault is set off by the flap motor that sits on the right of the manifold. the new manifold comes with a new intake pressure sensor, and a new flap motor already installed. you just have to transfer the fuel lines, the pcv valve and another small sensor on the front of the manifold. I am a tech in the D.C. area and we have cars with these faults come in all the time. And very rarely do you see debris in the vacuum system related to this fault. Now that isnt to say that there isnt carbon build up in the intake ports on the head, but that is due to the fact that the fuel injectors are under the intake ports so the fuel doesnt get to clean the ports out, so that part you will sea alot of carbon build up. especially with 40k on the motor...which by the way is one of the most important maintenance procedures on our DUBs, so be mindful of that as well. anyway taking off the intake manifold isnt as bad as it looks. You only need a few tools and a lil bit of patience. you will need a T30 torx bit to remove the bolts from the manifold (there are 6 of them i believe, and also two 10mm bolts on the lower part of the manifold), you also need to take off the throttle body, it makes it alot easier to maneuver and finagle with the manifold once its off, you also will need a flat head screw driver. take off the intercooler piping from the throttle body, you will end up removing about a two foot section of plastic and rubber tubing. take the throttle body off after that, (dont forget to disconnect all the connectors) un bolt the manifold and be sure again to disconnect the connectors before you start pulling. once everything is disconnected, un bolted this is the part where you have to be very careful. you can go ahead and tug on the manifold untill it starts to back out. make sure you pull it straight from its point of mounting or you run the chance of bending a fuel injector and trust me....you dont want to sepnd the money on one of those. after a few tugs the manifold should come loose. you will need to replace the fuel injector seals at the point, (you need to everytime you remove the manifold). thats really all it takes to remove the manifold. and obviously do the steps in reverse order to reinstall the new manifold...which you will need to do in order to rid of that fault. gl

Thanks for this post. So are you saying it's good preventative maint. to pull the intake and clean the carbon out of it periodically? ('08 2.0T Passat) We have 90K. At this point is it better to just replace the intake? And in the future should I pull the intake periodically to clean it? Is it a reusable gasket?

If I replace w new intake, do I read right that the CDVS Vag Com cannot update the computer, will I still need to bring it to the dealer for that?

Just out of curiosity how many of you are over 60k miles? Anything with p2015 should be covered under the power train warranty for the car and in the event like with mine last week with the flapper motor failing the entire intake manifold was replaced at no cost to me.

90K, 6 years. Well out of warranty. If it's this problematic, I guess we are lucky to have made it to 90K!

90K, 6 years. Well out of warranty. If it's this problematic, I guess we are lucky to have made it to 90K!

Really lucky I think lol. better news though for those that are going to run this past the warranty period. They seem to be quite cheap on ecs and to be honest it doesn't look all that hard to replace, although having never done one I dont' want to be the first test dummy

Really lucky I think lol. better news though for those that are going to run this past the warranty period. They seem to be quite cheap on ecs and to be honest it doesn't look all that hard to replace, although having never done one I dont' want to be the first test dummy

Actually, I'm very happy to report that I checked w the dealer just before I ordered the manifold, and they covered it under the extended service bulliten about this specific problem. I did have to pay out of pocket for the carbon cleaning, but even so that was cheaper than me buying the manifold!

I believe he said the extended coverage on the intake problem was to 120K miles, so if you are having this issue, it's worth checking in!

Actually, I'm very happy to report that I checked w the dealer just before I ordered the manifold, and they covered it under the extended service bulliten about this specific problem. I did have to pay out of pocket for the carbon cleaning, but even so that was cheaper than me buying the manifold!

I believe he said the extended coverage on the intake problem was to 120K miles, so if you are having this issue, it's worth checking in!

i just noticed this issue this week, and i checked my car with a vag com, and BAM P2015 code. i'll be calling my dealer, but how much was it for carbon cleaning?

i just noticed this issue this week, and i checked my car with a vag com, and BAM P2015 code. i'll be calling my dealer, but how much was it for carbon cleaning?

Friend of mine just went through this. If they warranty the intake manifold, that will be free and the carbon cleaning should run about $300, which is a lot less than normal, since they will have the intake manifold off already, which is half the labor cost of a typical carbon cleaning. Normally, a dealer will charge $7-900 for a carbon cleaning, and most indy shops will charge $5-600 or so. My friend did the manifold and full carbon cleaning for $300. They said the carbon cleaning by itself would have been about $900. Good luck!

Common problem for bmws too my e39 3.0 had the same problem until some guy game up with his own repair kit with a metal flapper and internals well worth it cause it would self destruct and then forced into the valves and bending them luckily when mine had self destructed it didn't bend the valves I just had horrible throttle response, I always found it amusing how people from the bmw community would make their own fixes and would far surpass oem parts and giving you peace of mind but that goes to show that some crafty person who know a lot about how the 2.0 tsi intake manifold works and come up with a permanent fix like a kit
The bmw kit was 60$ and used your existing unit and you replaced the internals took 20min tops
Or you could buy one from bmw for 450$ for it just to fail again, kinda like in this case

Common problem for bmws too my e39 3.0 had the same problem until some guy game up with his own repair kit with a metal flapper and internals well worth it cause it would self destruct and then forced into the valves and bending them luckily when mine had self destructed it didn't bend the valves I just had horrible throttle response, I always found it amusing how people from the bmw community would make their own fixes and would far surpass oem parts and giving you peace of mind but that goes to show that some crafty person who know a lot about how the 2.0 tsi intake manifold works and come up with a permanent fix like a kit
The bmw kit was 60$ and used your existing unit and you replaced the internals took 20min tops
Or you could buy one from bmw for 450$ for it just to fail again, kinda like in this case

it really isnt the debris that is the problem. in all honesty, its just the manufacturing of the electrical components. the fault is set off by the flap motor that sits on the right of the manifold. the new manifold comes with a new intake pressure sensor, and a new flap motor already installed. you just have to transfer the fuel lines, the pcv valve and another small sensor on the front of the manifold. I am a tech in the D.C. area and we have cars with these faults come in all the time. And very rarely do you see debris in the vacuum system related to this fault. Now that isnt to say that there isnt carbon build up in the intake ports on the head, but that is due to the fact that the fuel injectors are under the intake ports so the fuel doesnt get to clean the ports out, so that part you will sea alot of carbon build up. especially with 40k on the motor...which by the way is one of the most important maintenance procedures on our DUBs, so be mindful of that as well. anyway taking off the intake manifold isnt as bad as it looks. You only need a few tools and a lil bit of patience. you will need a T30 torx bit to remove the bolts from the manifold (there are 6 of them i believe, and also two 10mm bolts on the lower part of the manifold), you also need to take off the throttle body, it makes it alot easier to maneuver and finagle with the manifold once its off, you also will need a flat head screw driver. take off the intercooler piping from the throttle body, you will end up removing about a two foot section of plastic and rubber tubing. take the throttle body off after that, (dont forget to disconnect all the connectors) un bolt the manifold and be sure again to disconnect the connectors before you start pulling. once everything is disconnected, un bolted this is the part where you have to be very careful. you can go ahead and tug on the manifold untill it starts to back out. make sure you pull it straight from its point of mounting or you run the chance of bending a fuel injector and trust me....you dont want to sepnd the money on one of those. after a few tugs the manifold should come loose. you will need to replace the fuel injector seals at the point, (you need to everytime you remove the manifold). thats really all it takes to remove the manifold. and obviously do the steps in reverse order to reinstall the new manifold...which you will need to do in order to rid of that fault. gl

dasdub89,
Is a seal tool required when replacing the injector seals? I noticed this "tool" when looking up a seal kit and was curious if I needed to purchase one. I have 111k on my 10 CC and I know for a fact the carbon has not been cleaned since I purchased it at 39k. In fact I never heard of it until checking out this forum. I would take it in to the dealership for the 2015 code but they quoted me $400-$600 for the carbon cleaning alone.... besides I already purchased a new intake before I found about about the extended warranty.

Intake and injector warranty extended

Looks like VW knows this is an issue. I just took my wife's car on Friday with a P2015 code, and sure enough it was the manifold (thanks VW Vortex for helping me know what it might be). They replaced it, and told me that this part would normally be covered under the 6/60K powertrain warranty, but VW has had quite a few of these come back in so they extended the warranty on these parts. The new warranty on the manifold (an attached sensors) as well as the injectors is 120K miles. Great news if you've had this issue.

Unfortunately, my wife's car died today...back to the dealership to figure out the new problem. Hopefully it's related to the manifold, as we have passed the 3/36K comprehensive coverage (we're at 47k), and don't have an extended warranty.

I checked VW Vortex and saw that I went through this last time at 7900 miles. This is getting scary. Luckily, still under warranty. Can't wait to see what the dealership says since they already supposedly replaced the intake manifold with the updated part last time.

Stay tuned, friends...

Time to revive this thread. I swear...every year I miss my trusty old B5 more and more. This CC has been nothing but trouble, and I've spent over $2500 in maintanence/repairs since August 2010. (And this car even came with 3Y/36K bumper to bumper warranty).

Today, with 57719 miles, I just got my THIRD P2015 CODE! (Just scanned/cleared with Vag-Com).. As soon as it comes on again I will try taking it to the dealer, (along with the two previous service receipts where they changed out the intake manifold before). I've never heard of any car having to have an entire intake manifold three times in less than 60K miles. Ridiculous!

Time to revive this thread. I swear...every year I miss my trusty old B5 more and more. This CC has been nothing but trouble, and I've spent over $2500 in maintanence/repairs since August 2010. (And this car even came with 3Y/36K bumper to bumper warranty).

Today, with 57719 miles, I just got my THIRD P2015 CODE! (Just scanned/cleared with Vag-Com).. As soon as it comes on again I will try taking it to the dealer, (along with the two previous service receipts where they changed out the intake manifold before). I've never heard of any car having to have an entire intake manifold three times in less than 60K miles. Ridiculous!

Sorry to hear that. They are suppose to replace it with updated version so this will not happen again.

You probably just have a bad luck and this might not be related, but I am wondering about few things.

Are you tuned? How do you like to drive easy/hard? What kind of gas do you use?

Time to revive this thread. I swear...every year I miss my trusty old B5 more and more. This CC has been nothing but trouble, and I've spent over $2500 in maintanence/repairs since August 2010. (And this car even came with 3Y/36K bumper to bumper warranty).

Today, with 57719 miles, I just got my THIRD P2015 CODE! (Just scanned/cleared with Vag-Com).. As soon as it comes on again I will try taking it to the dealer, (along with the two previous service receipts where they changed out the intake manifold before). I've never heard of any car having to have an entire intake manifold three times in less than 60K miles. Ridiculous!

There's multiple points that can fail. Check out the humble mechanic on YouTube and you can learn a lot about this issue. As far as failure maybe consider taking it to a different dealership this time around

Sorry to hear that. They are suppose to replace it with updated version so this will not happen again.

You probably just have a bad luck and this might not be related, but I am wondering about few things.

Are you tuned? How do you like to drive easy/hard? What kind of gas do you use?

Again this might be probably completed unrelated...

Very bad luck indeed. The part number on the second intake was supposed to be the updated part.

I'm a middle aged guy, and I drive very pretty conservatively. This CC was bought brand new, is bone stock, and has been meticulously maintained using only VW parts and synthetic oil since day one. Always use premium name brand gas (Chevron, Shell, or 76). Even had the intake cleaning done at 30K at the dealer.

There's multiple points that can fail. Check out the humble mechanic on YouTube and you can learn a lot about this issue. As far as failure maybe consider taking it to a different dealership this time around

I called the other local dealer and the service department had me on hold for about ten minutes until I got pissed and hung up. Called my go-to local dealer and asked them if the intake will be covered under the 120K mile extended warranty. The service manager said yes, so I will bring it to them on Friday. What a hassle, but if they keep giving me free intake manifolds even couple of years, then I guess it's ok. But what a pain in the ass. Has anyone else had THREE intakes installed yet? I guess I will stop complaining especially since the car is paid off in just a few more months. I will let you guys know what happens Friday/Saturday.

The hits just keep on coming. I remember when I was in Club B5 there would be people with a B5 that had nothing but trouble, whereas mine was fairly bullet proof. But now my CC is definitely one of those that was built by the "B" team. Today I go out and find a catastrophic loss of coolant. I have it towed to my local Indy mechanic, thinking it might be a busted coolant hose. NOPE! He advises me to take it to the dealer to have them fix A CRACKED WATER PUMP HOUSING since they are going to have the engine apart for the new intake. I call the service tech, and he says that there is an updated part for the housing. How many different crappy parts did they put into these engines that have since been updated? Of course, I'm about 7000 miles out of warranty. Stay tuned...