Jobard is a name to conjure with in the village of Meursault. Rémi’s uncle François has long held rock-star status in the US, but we think Rémi has no need to piggyback on his relative’s good reputation. You might try it for the sake of its maker’s last name, but you’ll buy that second bottle (or third, or fifth, or case) because of the stellar quality of the wine inside. While not a Slow Wine as such (Slow Wine is an Italian movement ), Jobard’s Bourgogne Blanc is made slowly, picked late, pressed slowly, allowed to ferment in its own time with only the yeasts native to the grapes (which have been organic since 2008), then let rest on its lees in large barrels for a year, accumulating flavor and intensity to itself, slowly. It deserves such treatment: though called Bourgogne Blanc, on the merits of its fruit it could be called Meursault, and Rémi gives it the same care as his Premier Crus. Made from the “vignes nouvelles,” the young vines of his parcels, it has both freshness and focus, with clean and linear fruit passing swiftly through the mouth on a rush of texture and acidity, chased by lingering cinnamon and vanilla spice. Yellow apple forms the core of the torrent, with waves of pear and bubbles of nectarine.