First I installed the steering column bracket and mounted the steering column:

The Painless fuse block bolts were slightly larger than the stock ones so I had to drill out the two holes to 1/4":

Fuse block installed:

Feed the harness above the steering column bracket:

Installed the lights:

Notice the fuse and ground. I will secure those when I get the speaker installed.

Installed the two ignition blocks, white first, then black:

Installed the turn switch block:

In the two above pics you can also see the brake switch wires coming down from inside the brake pedal assembly.

Next the wiper motor. First feed the wiper motor wires down through the dash to the passenger side of the steering column:

Plug the wiper motor wires in and then the wiper motor and washer motor plugs:

Next I installed the instrument panel wires, including volt meter and oil gauge:

It helps to use another speedo as a guide, I happened to have a spare one:

They did a good job of labeling the slots, HB is high beams, BW is brake warning, LTS is left turn signal, RTS is right turn signal, and QT is 4 wheel drive indicator. The three slots with the bumps above them are panel lights.

The following wires are not terminated. Some I will use but some I don't need:

I also plugged in the heater control and resistor and the six two-pronged dash lights.

The instructions were pretty straightforward so this part of the harness was easy to install. Next I will do the engine harness and the fuel injection harness.

Next I decided to knock out the tail light harness since it wouldn't take long.

The harness:

Notice there are a few terminations that will need to be done since the tail light connectors are different.

First, feed the harness through the hole behind the driver seat and push the grommet into place:

Run the harness under the driver door frame and up to the fuse block. Plug the individual wires into the included connector and plug into the fuse block connection:

On the other end of the grommet, run the harness through the channel in the rear wheel well and then to the back corners:

I left the clips in place when I removed the old harness so I can just clip the new one in place. I don't have a pic of this though, I'll try and get one later.

Four pin connector from Painless:

Three pin stock connector:

To make it easy to map the wires to each other, I plugged in the stock harness connector to the tail light connector:

Then I crimped the wires together and taped them up:

I plan on using some liquid tape to help seal the connections.

For the fourth wire, which is the ground wire (black one), I just terminated it with an eyelet and secured it with a nut to one of the tail light mounting bolts. This ground wire is meant for fiber glass bodies since the metal ones should ground with the tail light body.

I left the side marker light even though I don't have side marker lights just in case I need it in the future.

Filed the stock opening a little so the new plug would fit:

Tail light installed:

Did the same thing on the driver side.

So far it's been pretty painless but we'll see how the engine harness goes!

Sorry, not much right now. This happens every summer though when all the car shows are in action and I get the Challenger out.

Here is the Challenger with the new wheels I got:

I did get the Metalcloak flat fenders and inner fenders mounted:

I had them powdercoat the fenders since I will probably paint the hood black. I also picked up a dual battery tray which can be seen in the last picture. You can also see I've started the engine bay wiring and I will post my pictures/walkthrough when I finish it up later.

Right now, the Scrambler is at the shop getting some stuff done that I can't do at home:

The current SOA setup is pushing the front axle into the stock steering location so we are going to convert the front suspension to a 4-link with coil-over springs/shocks. I'm less interested in stretching the front versus keeping the stock steering location. I was planning on links and coils in the future so getting it done now will be a bonus.

The atlas II t-case is mounted, gas tank and external pump for fuel injection are mounted (not in the picture above), body mounts are cleaned up, and fuel/brake lines are being created. I also ordered a set of Doug's Tri-Y Headers so I'll probably get the exhaust work done as well.

I'll try to get some pictures next time I'm there but I should have it back in about a month.

I stopped by the shop yesterday to drop off my headers, mufflers, and steering box so I snapped a few pictures of what has been completed recently.

Atlas t-case installed:

The 3.8:1 ratio written on the case is the gear ratio so combined with the 2.72:1 reduction results in the 4 speeds of 1:1, 2.72:1, 3.8:1, and 10.34:1. Both output shafts are 32 spline and the input shaft from the TF727 is 23 spline I think. It can run in the standard 2 low, 2 high, 4 low, 4 high including front wheels only.

Electric fuel pump installed on rail:

Gas tank mounted, the rear cross-member had to be replaced since it was bent:

The Radflo coil-overs are in as well as the links and brackets but nothing had been welded on yet. I will get pictures of this when it's complete.

Things have been slow, I've got a lot going on but here are some pictures:

Here's the front suspension:

And a picture of what it will roughly look like when the tires are mounted:

The Acme hard top is not mine but it looks pretty nice on there so I may have to hunt one down. The rear axle was moved backward by the PO so we will have to relocate it to the stock position to avoid the gas tank hitting the 14 bolt housing. I also want to minimize any trimming I need to do on the wheel wells.

I was thinking about roll cages and was wondering if anyone has done one that supports a full hardtop and half hardtop? It seems like there might be someway to have a removable section of the roll cage without sacrificing too much safety.