Bogey`s Brunch Is Delicious

Dessert`s Divine

Soft background music from a solitary piano player floats from the entrance as hungry patrons arrive for brunch.

The brunch at Colonel Bogey`s, open to the public, in the PGA Sheraton on the grounds of PGA National Resort in Palm Beach Gardens is a comfortable and inexpensive way to begin the day.

Set in an open, airy room with natural-color oak furniture, the $13.95 brunch includes champagne or non-alcoholic beverages. For children, the brunch costs $6.95. The room overlooks the 18th green of the Champion Course, the site of the 1987 PGA Championship.

A popular brunch drink from the roving bar is a Bloody Mary, $3.50.

The magnificent array of food was, on the whole, excellent. There were exceptions, however.

The eggs were warm, not hot, and they were runny. The french fries and home fries were cold. But those drawbacks were more than offset by the other choices.

The tender roast beef was excellent, and brunchers had their choice of rare, medium or well-done.

Mountains of cold cuts, cheeses, vegetables, oysters and shrimp were piled on the tables.

There were plenty of bagels, blintzes, fried chicken and sausages. There was a wide variety of bacon, some with fat and not too crispy, some well-done and without fat.

But while the main courses were impressive and delicious, the des

serts were better. The trip was worth it just for the desserts.

About 20 cakes and pies on a table near the middle of the dining area easily pushed aside thoughts of a third helping of roast beef.

And to top off the desserts was a make-it-yourself table of vanilla ice cream with butterscotch or chocolate syrup, walnuts, whipped cream and cherries.

Attire for brunch was almost as varied as the food, although most people had on casual clothes. Only a few brunchers wore shorts and fewer had sports coats.

The waiters, who wore green knickers and knee-length argyle socks, were friendly, efficient and helpful. Their outfits were similar to those depicted on the eight-foot-high glass etchings.