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I have used it on all my guns "The same guns" for over 40 years. No gum. No waxy buildup. No varnish. No bluing loss. No stock discoloration. And have never had any gun burst into flames. Never had to repair or replace any part or had any gun fail in any way. I do oil moving parts before taking them out to shoot. After shooting I clean and wipe down with wd before putting up. I do disassemble each gun at least two times a year if used or not and wipe down each part. That includes my muzzleloader that I clean with soap and water. You may find a few scratches and dings on my hunting guns but not one speck of rust on any. After 40 years of using wd on the "Same Guns" with absolutely no ill affects and none of the bull there is not much else to say. I keep my guns in a gun cabinet with no dehumidifier, no dry packs, no vacuum plastic bags. Just a two dollar can of wd40.

You really can not beat plane old 3in1 oil. We are not talking a crank shaft rotating at 4000 RPMs. The movement of a gun is not that different than a sewing machine. 3in1 has worked for years and years. The idea of some miracle oil is urban myth. For me Remoil is too thin. a drop of 3in 1 on the high contact parts and Rem on things like trigger and other low wear parts works great. But oil is a crazy subject. Go to the Harley forum and ask about what oil to use in a Transmission or primary case and you will get 100 people who tell you 100 different things and will fight you to back up what they say. For me WD is great as a solvent to keep things that are hard to get to clean. I use the hose to spray down the gas tube on an AR15 and rust prevention.

got it. maybe because its something as important as a weapon you may have to use...…….people tend to over complicate things.

When I was in the Army, we used WD-40 on everything from our 105mm gun's breech block, M240 coax machine gun and especially on our M85 .50 cal machine gun without any issues at all. I can remember when the Army started to issue out Breakfree back in the early 80s and that was a superior product, but to Tankers, anything you got your hands on was fine.

As for me and my guns, I use Breakfree all the time and I don't see me ever changing to another product. But to be honest, it breaks down to an individual's preference at the end of the day.

I saw a test a group of mental defectives ran on using WD-40. They took an AR15 using military ammo and were running the gun as fast as they could unload clips. The test was for 10,000 rounds. As the gun would start to falter, they would spray it with WD-40 and it would run again. At the end of the test, the gun looked like you had sprayed motor oil all over it and then threw several buckets of sand on the oil. It was a wreck. I don't recall if they said how much WD-40 they used but I'm assuming a lot.

I don't see the need for it on a gun at all. It's not a rust preventive as it's a dry lubricant after the vehicle dries. It doesn't provide any boundary lubrication at all. It does not have any extreme pressure properties. Considering there are many oils formulated with guns as the target use, why use anything else. The biggest issue I see about gun lubrication is most have no clue when to use oil and when to use grease.

And for those using motor oil or ATF, the oil is not formulated to deal with free oxygen at all. Oxidation WILL happen and your nice pristine weapon is going to be a ball of corrosion one day. I've seen many guns that had value turned to crap because someone told them motor oil or ATF was the real deal. Your guns, your money, and no, I can't fix stupid.

If this were the 50s 60s 70s 80s. You'd be 100% correct about engine oil...

I run mobil1 in everything. ARs I run mobil1 or mobil delvac synthetic diesel engine oil. Wicks carbon and makes clean up a breeze.
Use a Qtip and apply it to the upper, apply it to the bolt tail, where carbon bakes on, requiring a thorough scrubbing with a brass brush/scraper...

Now... old engine oil, full of natural minerals such as zinc, sulpher, as you know, if an engine popped a head gaskets or intake gasket, and coolant were to mix with the engine oil, the bearings would be failed...

How I know they pulled zinc out of engine oil?
Solid lifter cams.
Cams will eat the lifters, lifters will eat the lobes...

Years ago you would be 100% correct. and I'd absolutely agree and stand with you in that assesment.

I do run my ARs. Alot. Each range trip is 2-5k rounds through them.
So 1-2.5k per.
I've used RemOil CLP Hoppes. You name it.

Running an AR, as you know, it's a gas impingement system.
It diverts hot gas from the cartridge back to the upper receiver via the gas tube, to drive the bolt carrier group (BCG) rearward.
As we like to say, they chit where they eat.

Upper receivers and bolt carriers fill up with crud like none other.
So much so, that with high round counts especially so when suppressed, the uppers BCG and bolts are FILTHY. I'm talking you're spending an hour with cleaning solvents to break it up with a wire brush, and it just laugh...

I started on new bolts and carriers, coating them and the insides of uppers (Virgin units never fired) with mobil1/mobil delvac...
The carbon wipes off with a rag.

Typically, the tail of the bolt will have SO much carbon caked on, it is hard as a rock and needs to be scraped off... especially if a suppressor was on...
Now? I literally wipe the sludge off with a rag. Maybe use some solvent but there's no more scrubbing with a wire brush anymore

I lube my firearms with motor oil. Doesn't matter which brand or what-have-you. It gets the job done. The only thing it lacks is the tacticool sex appeal.

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