I climbed the Feather Peak Couloir on October 28,1994 after hiking in from Pine Creek Pass. I remember some rock fall from the right side of the couloir, where it ends in the sharp rock ridge. Worrying about the rock fall made me climb the extreme left side of the gully on solid blue ice. The descent was unusual. One downclimbs the ridge toward Royce Col(?), then downclimbs the couloir between Royce and Feather Peaks on 40 degree ice. I liked this ice couloir very much. Its way out there in the backcountry (10 miles +), the area has a lot of lakes and the view of Merriam Peak's buttress is really great.

Swapped leads with Brad Mastros. 6 pitches total with a 60m rope: Brad took the odd pitches and I did the even ones. We ascended the climber's left side of the couloir as the right side was dirty and littered with rock fall. The condition of the couloir itsef was neve transitioning to ice (there were ice patches for an 2-ice screw belay). Horrendous descent via the east face; had to sacrifice gear to rappel. Camped at the east shore of Upper Royce Lake (11,725'). Camp to camp just over 11 hours. Back at Pine Creek T/H by 10pm. Home in LA by 3am Monday....just another weekend in the Sierra.