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T9 at summit point flagger called out 'we just witnessed a hell of an event' as I stumbled off track hot into the pits formula D style.

How did this happen??? Checked torques before event, no other warning signs/vibrations. Hub is broken missing about a half inch of spindle - the rest is still on the axle, wheel bearing shot, and the axle sheared at the chamfer between the spline and the thread.

It is frustrating, because until I know the cause of failure - I can't scope how much replacement or preventive maintenance on the other side I need to do.. I'll have to tear-down and investigate more soon

I'm leaning towards an out of spec knuckle. I had a tech help push out a race with his press a few events ago, but I failed to mention he should probably take out the lock ring first.. very suspect.

I was able to buy the ignition switch from Subaru and i swapped my key lock cylinder to the new IG switch. No key change required

Ahhh, got it. I was thinking the entire cylinder, not just the switch. Cool, thanks.

Edit: Looks like my '97 Legacy uses the same part. Since it's dead in the garage, I could cannibalize the part from the Legacy to see if that fixes the problem on the Impreza.

Just pulled the switch out of the Legacy and installed it in the Impreza. Good to go. (Well, at least it gave proper indications and started the first time. Hopefully it continues to do that with some more cycles.) Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, carnz-pj.

- Dug through my spare nuts 'n' bolts bins and found some replacement fasteners for ones that I discovered were missing while I was replacing the ignition switch. Not sure what it's called exactly, but the metal cover plate on the bottom of the steering column had only 1 of the 4 screws holding it in place. Now it has 4.

- Reconnected the speedo cable in the Impreza. It had popped off the back of the speedo the other day. I guess I inadvertently tugged on it or something while I was digging around under the dash during the brake switch troubleshooting. Went for a quick spin and verified the speedo is operational again.

Doesn't seem like the cable has anything in the way of a clip to keep it in position. The speedo cable on my Fox Mustang has a plastic clip that you have to press down to disengage the cable from the back of the speedo, kind of like a wiring harness connector.

Attempted to "Wipe New" the dashboard and all plastic pieces I removed from the impreza yesterday...and the wipe new was hardened in the bottle. Apparently I will be driving to town and buying another bottle shortly, since all of the parts are now in my way.

Hmmm, I have a bottle of that stuff somewhere in the garage, not sure I've ever used it. Wonder if the bottle I've got is also dead?

If you had it for several months, possibly hardened. I bought another bottle and did all of the dash, console, steering pieces, etc. It basically made them have super gloss and darkened some a little.

The dash has only been faded for maybe six months, it was nice and dark before. The Wipe New didn't do any type of miracle on the dash, it had lots of dry looking areas after coating it last night. I coated it again tonight and it seems to have helped a little, but won't know until tomorrow.

I used something similar a few years ago on my other impreza and remember it lasting a few months then fading again. If this stuff only lasts a few months, after all of the bragging they do about going through a car wash hundreds of times, I will be just slightly pissed. It also has VERY strong ammonia + mothball scent, I suggest doing it in the garage. They claim it needs to be done in a cool dry area, which makes it almost impossible for most people with the smell being so bad. Sucks I didn't end up with the house I wanted several years back, had a separate large air conditioned workshop/garage. :/

Taking the dash out wasn't fun at all, with all of the extra wiring I've added having to be disconnected. I may install quick disconnects on all of them in case.

Had the BRAKE light come on during the drive to work this morning. Got to work, checked the level of the reservoir, a bit low. Hmmm... Checked inside the wheels for signs of leakage and the right front looked wet.

Thinking I had a brake hose going bad, I left work early so I could go home to troubleshoot, then make it to Mach V to pick up a set of braided lines. (Had already checked online for a new stock hose - $50! Might as well spend ~$100 and get all 4 braided lines if it's $50 for just a single stock one.)

Took the wheel off and found that it wasn't wet with brake fluid, it was wet with CV grease that magically leaked out past an intact CV boot (and was all over the wheel, the brake caliper, the brake backing plate, the base of the strut, etc). I've had that happen on my Legacy before, but in that case, I could see that the boot clamp had allowed the boot to slip a bit, and I could see signs of where the grease escaped. That's not the case this time - both boot clamps are firmly in place, and I can't see where the grease came from. Weird.

Cleaned everything up, put the wheel back on, and topped off the brake fluid reservoir. I imagine I'll be replacing a bad axle at some point, and I'll keep an eye on the brake fluid to see if it drops again.

- Repaired a dead line in the rear window defrost grid. When I bought the car last winter I noticed that one of the lines in the grid didn't work, and of course it was right about the middle of the rear window. I bought a Permatex kit to fix it months and months ago, but finally got around to doing it on Tuesday.

The directions tell you not to use the defrost for 24 hours, so I didn't get to test it out before heading out of town for the 2nd half of the week. After getting back in town I was able to test it and sho'nuff the whole defrost grid works as it should. Hooray!