I'd say take lessons with Ron, Geoff or Johan! I'm going to Johan And of course there will be the book of Dave Wooley along with his good topics/replies here! i suggest you look into the history of this forum part, there are some "R/C for beginner" threads that are very useful. I, myself am also starting to look for R/C gear, I'll certainly share experiences here.

Didn't improve the prop shafts, just packed the square holes with grease per instructions... it leaks. A bulkhead helps prevent premature sinking.

Right way: Find some tubing that is a close fit to the 2mm shafting, use a Dremel tool and Milliput to lay the tubing in place and seal it down (Milliput = 2 part putty that actually STICKS to styrene).

It's a transverse plate, like a frame, but watertight, or at least very close to watertight. It means that your hull is then divided in compartments which on its turn means that if there is flooding aft of the bulkhead, the part before will remain dry, and that means that if your electronics are there, they're saved. As you will notice when your ship starts getting a strange position and so you can pull it out before the electronics are wasted.

well you can add me, libben@hotmail.com .... i know some r/c but i'm definently not a pro. ARH and DaveWooley would be your best mentors but they dont use MSN, however they are always on here and willing to lend a hand. however if you need help you can always contact me on msn.

_________________It's not who you are, but what you do that defines you.

Depending on how much effort you want to put into your kit, you can have a lot of fun with those 1/350th kits. A friend and I RC'ed similar kits when we were kids and they ran great. If you want a quiter ship, you can go with smaller individual motors. Together they would all work on a regular sized electronic speed control (for 540 sized motors). (You can cheat and only hook up a couple of props). You can also make your own prop shafts if you can solder. I simply used around 1/16 sized brass rod (from any good hobby shop) and brass tubing that fit it. Keep the shafts oiled, light oil. I've never had one leak yet. Go light with your radio gear too unless you're looking for that "scale look." Oh yeah, you can use those SMALL lightweight disposable containers to seal your gear in. Just glue the bottom to your hull once you get your gear balanced out in your ship. A little silicon sealant around the wire entrance holes will keep the water out.

My 2 cents worth, you can do it, if you want to sail it in an indoor pool. Anykind of weather and she will be a gonner! Personally I would not RC anything smaller than 1/96th scale wich will make an Iowa/ Yamato come out at about 9 feet ish long.
Paul...

It can get a bit cramped on the smaller ships, especially when you throw in cannons, co2, extra servos, extra batteries, and pumps..... but there are even 1/144 ww2 subs in R/C and there is even a guy who built an r/c 1/144 PT BOAT! THAT BATTLES!

_________________It's not who you are, but what you do that defines you.

Hi,
from what i know, tamiya used to sell a motorised 1/350 yamato, but i bought the static model (which still had the fittings) of the yamato. I do not have the gear box and the metal components. How do i go about getting these and what gear should i buy? :S

I can recommend you http://conrad.com/, they have very good stuff, and at reasonable prices. But I don't know if they ship to Singapore.

How do you want your IJN Yamato, with one, two, four props?
If you want only one or two props powered, then maybe you could strip a servo, for it basically consists of a ESC and a motor. Most transmitters come with two servos, so you can use one for the rudder(s), and strip the other.
I'd like to help you, but then I need some more info, how big is the ship, what kind of configuration do you want etc.
But I go with mister Simpson, if you want a RC ship with good sailing qualities, take a bigger scale, otherwise you won't be able to sail outdoors.
Personally I would recommend a Flower Corvette from Revell, nice model, sails great and is very easy convertable in a RC model.

If you want some advise, I'm on this site almost every day, an otherwise, here's my adres (I also have msn) taw142ssmw@hotmail.com

Toiletfreak, (they have a medicine for that now)
You can use an R/C car remote only if you don't mind the short range. You will also be limited to the control of your motors and steering. Not really recommended unles money is tight.

I second klein loewietje's suggestion of a Revell Flower Class Corvette. It's a scale model and easily (relatively speaking) converted to R/C. I had one and they look good out of the box. My second reccomendation is a Lindbergh Blue Devil Destroyer. Both kits are well priced and look good out of the box (especially at a beginner's level). I've built three Blue Devils in the past just for the fun of it. It comes with one RE-280 motor and a gear box. Drop the gearbox and go with a second motor. You'll have to throttle back to make it go scale speed.

Four motors aren't really practical in these models, you start running out of room! You can see in the photos of my Tamiya Missouri I tried to do that earlier in the design and ended up going with two (still four props) This system runs very well though top speed is a little too fast for scale. This model was my first attempt at any model building since a child, so us rookies CAN get it done. Do a search at Amazon about rc model boats and get yourself a book or two on the subject. Hugh Bright wrote one that is very informative covering all aspects of the hobby.
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

_________________Governments consist of groups of people, usually noteably ungoverned.

Thks! However, how do you seal a moving axle, let's say one connected to the motor, watertight? I have tried to place the axle through a cork stopper, but the motor just can't seem to move the axle. :S
Thks for your help!

If you can't find a piece of tubing that will fit s-m-o-o-t-h-l-y over your exhisting prop shaft, go to / order a piece of brass rod 1/16th thick or slightly more from your hobby supplier. Then, get a piece of tubing with the same size inner diameter that will fit over that. They sell brass tubing and rod that will "telescope" (as they call it). The shaft fitting into the tube with a good coating of light oil (for your application) will keep out the water. I haven't used an off the shelf prop shaft yet. I've made lot's of these in your ship size and it takes minimal work/money. Try this page (see the other articles on there too):