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At Four Sea Restaurant, a Chinese breakfast spot in Irvine, you must order the thing everyone gets: the dogbone-shaped, golden, deep-fried cruller called “you tiao” and the hot soy milk. This pairing is the doughnuts and coffee, the cereal and milk, if you will, of the Chinese-breakfast repertoire. You can eat it however you want: either dunk the crullers—crispy billy clubs with nothing inside but air pockets—into the thin liquid, or tear them up and toss them into the bowl, or alternate between slurping the bland tofu-ness of the milk and getting your fingers greasy from the pastry, which are called “oil sticks” for a reason.