Still sitting in the box(es). I sanded all the graphite, but then company showed up last week and I got "evicted" from my office, aka the spare bedroom. Be a couple more weeks before I can get them built, maybe two months before I can go to TQ and test, and IIC isn't till October

Rod (or, anybody with a Evo6 and a 418 around in the same place and the same time):

Can the 418 servo mount be cross fitted into the EVO as a bolt on?

I was wondering for the same question, if we can put the alum. 417 V5 servo mount into the Evo 6.

As to the drive train What did you do wrong? or is there a tip to make it quieter?

For the most part, the Evo 6 feels good. On our track, it can use a touch more turn in, and have a little less dumping over in the esses. I ran the 418 and Evo back to back with 13.5 motors. Unfortunately, the lap timer was not turned on for the 418 runs so it's difficult to say which is better. The 418 has been pretty quick lately so that says a lot. When I ran 17.5 later in the day, it was easy to drive and was able to put in decent lap times. For reference, a sub 14 second lap is above average to good. Mid 13's is really good...and low 13's is wishful thinking but not out of the question

As for why my car was so loud...I'm still not sure. I finished rebuilding the car and took a look inside the gear boxes and found no wear on any of the gears. The boxes themselves are pretty quiet. I think the culprit may be my center miter gears. I've been using a dry lube (a spray that dries to a teflon/fluorine finish) and coupled with a slight wobble in the miter gears, causes some noise. Additionally, I run just about everything dry with no grease. The result speaks for itself As a reality test, I gooped on a bunch of grease everywhere and the noise improved dramatically. I'm not a fan of grease flinging cars, so I cleaned everything off with motorspray and added some waxy lube on top of the dry lube for the miter gears, as well as maxima chain lube on the shafts and it has gotten a touch quieter. I'll figure it out eventually.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigMBA

Rod (or, anybody with a Evo6 and a 418 around in the same place and the same time):

Can the 418 servo mount be cross fitted into the EVO as a bolt on?

I don't know and didn't really measure. The Evo servo mount is alright. I took my time, making sure that everything in the assemble looked nice and straight, before I torqued the crap out of the screws.

For the most part, the Evo 6 feels good. On our track, it can use a touch more turn in, and have a little less dumping over in the esses. I ran the 418 and Evo back to back with 13.5 motors. Unfortunately, the lap timer was not turned on for the 418 runs so it's difficult to say which is better. The 418 has been pretty quick lately so that says a lot. When I ran 17.5 later in the day, it was easy to drive and was able to put in decent lap times. For reference, a sub 14 second lap is above average to good. Mid 13's is really good...and low 13's is wishful thinking but not out of the question

As for why my car was so loud...I'm still not sure. I finished rebuilding the car and took a look inside the gear boxes and found no wear on any of the gears. The boxes themselves are pretty quiet. I think the culprit may be my center miter gears. I've been using a dry lube (a spray that dries to a teflon/fluorine finish) and coupled with a slight wobble in the miter gears, causes some noise. Additionally, I run just about everything dry with no grease. The result speaks for itself As a reality test, I gooped on a bunch of grease everywhere and the noise improved dramatically. I'm not a fan of grease flinging cars, so I cleaned everything off with motorspray and added some waxy lube on top of the dry lube for the miter gears, as well as maxima chain lube on the shafts and it has gotten a touch quieter. I'll figure it out eventually.

I don't know and didn't really measure. The Evo servo mount is alright. I took my time, making sure that everything in the assemble looked nice and straight, before I torqued the crap out of the screws.

I'd check the height of the rear diff case in relation to the output shaft on the cars main gearbox. I lossened the rear diff housing from the chassis and it shut the car up quite a bit. Mine felt like it had high and low spots on the spur but it was caused by the rear output and input shafts being different heights.

Has anyone quantified how much the servo mount might shift in a crash and how that affects trim setting? I was thinking it might be worthwhile to countersink the servo mount CF arm and use countersunk head screws instead of the kit button head screws. The countersunk screws and holes should stay centered better than kit design.

In reading Kentech's blog it seemed his only change to the kit build was to swap a couple bearings for some included bushings in the diffs. Are most of you building the car right from the box? Anything I should add or change on the car?
Can't wait to start the build. Thanks.