If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Rehabbing a gooseneck Car hauler. Trailer Gods....

Ok I just did some horse trading to get this trailer. All the sides and expanded steel and gate is coming off. I am gusseting the neck and adding a 2' dovetail. I am running new 5 inch Channel the length of the trailer. Currently the gooseneck hits the 5 inch channel and runs to the front of the axles. There is a piece of 2x3 angle running the length. Not quite strong enough for me. So I pull the wood and run the channel next to the angle? When I add crossmembers should I use 3" channel, 2x3 angle, 2x2x.120 tubing or something else? Should I move the axles back if I am adding the dovetail? The trailer has 2 3500lb axles with brakes on both. I plan on towing new cars and trucks, but occasionally my Buddy's cummins whenever it breaks down. I am pulling the wood now as I wait for my plasma consumables to come from hong kong in the mail.

Last edited by Joey-D; 02-24-2009 at 04:46 PM.
Reason: Took out pictures so it could be read

The axles are 3500 Lb axles total load 7000# including the weight of the trailer, Figure tonge weight at 1000# means your load capacity is approx. 5,500- 6,000 lbs probably closer to the 5500.

The rear half only has an angle support so the side angle that sticks up approx. 12" is where your strength is.

To make it a heavier duty trailer you will need to cut the spring perches off add a channel and then mount the springs to the new channel so it will sit higher and yes move the fenders & axles back a little if your adding 2' onto the trailer and then with all that you might want to add 6000lb axles & springs rims I tires for the bigger load.

All that gets expensive so you might want to sell that one and buy a bigger one which will be alot cheaper

I removed the deck. Which was a pain. Ended up cutting the three crossmembers it was screwed to out. Gonna post some more pictures with the wood and three crossmembers out. Then I gonna read what you guys wrote and go from there.

Do you guys follow what I am saying with adding the channel. Put in "inside" the angle that runs the length of the trailer. Add my cross members to that, and then add my wood back on. If would be a lot easier than removing the axles and putting it under the angle and/or replacing the angle with it. If I put it "inside" the angle if would give me a little more strength then replacing the angle.

And if I pull the cummins home again, it weighs in at 7100#. But since that truck weight is in the motor, I would be exceeding the rating of the trailer yes, but most of the weight would be added to the tongue weight. Am I correct in this logic? Not trying to argue, just trying to learn.