Don't get your hopes up for full ROM - it'll never be the same again as the whole thing has been tightened up. My external rotation is terrible but you just learn to adapt. Lots of pain is completely normal and if you do as instructed by the surgeon and don't push it, its very unlikely that'll you have done something bad at this stage. But most cases of the procedure failing are people going too hard too soon, which I take to meaning when they return to sport and not during the rehab process during which most people are very cautious.

The good news for today is - after 11 and 1/2 months, i reckon I can go back to normal climbing! I did 5 laps of Squeakeasy on a top rope today with no dramas. Leading 19s again with no dramas. And in 3 weeks time I get to run raucous on Frog. I am very excited.

well i wouldn't say better than ever ... i'm sure it was a lot better 10 years ago ... but no, it's great. I haven't had any of the sort of pain i was getting in the 3 months post injury/presurgery. I'm still working my way back to fitness, but I've been super careful about it. Just back from the Frog trip where everything went great - vertical-ish technical cracks are no drama, really happy with alzeimer's onsights of a bunch of 21-22s. Sadly, no fat cracks yet, I'm not keen to test the shoulder on chicken wings just yet.

I would however extremely strongly advise getting a rehab plan and following it obsessively - i was talking with a friend the other who hadn't been given a lot of direction on her shoulder repair and she was really concerned about how little it was progressing. I asked lots of questions, rested it obsessively when i was told to, set an alarm 5 times a day to stretch it obsessively when i was told to, and then again, to do theraband exercises when told to - it really does pay off and i would do a lot of obedient rehab in order to avoid shoulder surgery again. Aside from my new bioonic shoulder costing me $10000. That's a lot of climbing trips i could have done!

I didn't really have a lot of options but surgery. My surgeon was very good at explaining the options to me, and really, it wasn't a hard decision to suffer through having it done. The other options weren't looking good. I did feel a bit like it was never ever ever going to be better again, but I can be a little melodramatic.

Also make sure you continue doing the shoulder exercises for as long as you are active. You want those little support muscles around your shoulder to be strong. You will start to relax on the exercises and think your shoulder is back to normal...but it never will be quite the same. If you can keep those exercises up a couple of times a week it will go along way to helping keep them strong. Climbing will only strengthen the bigger or major muscle groups in your shoulder. The shoulder exercises focus on the smaller more important muscles groups.

anyone out there had any success or other related stories about recovery from all 3 glenohumeral ligaments being busted/detached and a few dislocations?

my physio seems to think surgery is the go, surgeon says go. i'm just kinda adverse to being cut open and tied back together with bits of string. anyone recovered from this sort of damage enough to keep climbing without the re-co?

On 15/08/2013 a_stevo wrote:>tagging onto the end of wendy's thread here.>>anyone out there had any success or other related stories about recovery>from all 3 glenohumeral ligaments being busted/detached and a few dislocations?>>my physio seems to think surgery is the go, surgeon says go. i'm just>kinda adverse to being cut open and tied back together with bits of string.>anyone recovered from this sort of damage enough to keep climbing without>the re-co?

Yep. But I never climbed before the injuries so hard for me to say some things.

What I do know is that if you don't have surgery, your body will just have to find a different way to move, which will probably be less efficient, which will result in lesser performance, no matter what you do.

You probably already know this. The pain will just get worse as you get older too.

On 15/08/2013 shortman wrote:>On 15/08/2013 a_stevo wrote:>>tagging onto the end of wendy's thread here.>>>>anyone out there had any success or other related stories about recovery>>from all 3 glenohumeral ligaments being busted/detached and a few dislocations?

Not this bad but +1 for surgery if the surgeon says its a go. 7months post labral/capsule repair and i can climb/kayak up to a moderate grade, its miserable but not that long. Put the time in now, do the exercises meticulously and your shoulder will thank you in the long run.