If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

lanthanated

I finally tried the lanthanated tungsten on stainless yesterday. It sharpens easier, seems to hold the point much longer and appears to provide a more stable arc. I may not use the thoriated any more.
I am wondering about other peoples thoughts on this.

Im no expert on the subject and Ive got a pile of ceriated elctrodes to use up, but I do have one Lanthanated point and I kinda like it too.
Like you siad , its seems to provide a nice stable arc and for a beginner like me, I thnk thats a good start towards understanding exactly whats happening at the puddle.

2% lanth. is all i use. works great for AC & DC, so no problems keeping them separate after the paint comes off.
although its debated as the the true risks of thorated, i just don't see the point of risking it when lanthanated works so well.
i'm a big fan of the lanth. try it on some aluminum you will really like it.

thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.james@newyorkmetalart.comsummer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES

Thanks to all. When I do try it on aluminum is there any need to ball it, or use it like I do the thoriated and just let it ball itself?
Do you think it might handle a little more amps then the pure of same size?

same size?

Yes the alloyed rods will carry more amps than the same sized pure tungsten. The functionality is that the alloy agents are "electron emissive oxides". That is to say they give up their valence electrons easier than the pure form of tungsten. Other benefits include: improved arc starting, arc stability, usable life increase, contamination resistance, and ability to maintain a sharpened tip longer.
Now let's hit point geometry quickly.
The taper or point is usable from 30 to 120 degrees depending on the degree of arc concentration required. The tip shape has a heavy effect on the depth of penetration, weld geometry and arc characteristics. A blunt electrode will have the arc wander around the end trying to establish a good path. It moves because of a cathodic reaction where resistance builds and forces the electricity to find an easier path. Keep in the back of your mind that the arc comes off of the smallest cross section of the electrode that can carry the amperage, therefore some common practices can be understood. One is blunting the tip, unless you are working with less than 10 amps you don't really need the sharp tip, it will only end up dipping into the puddle and leaving some tungsten contamination. Also when you grind the tip always grind along the axis or longitudinally to the rod to allow the electrons a smooth path. Finish it as smooth as you can as well and keep the grind even from the tip, reducing one side more than the other will make it difficult to keep proper control of the arc manipulation.

Yes to weld aluminum with the inverters you should grind your tungsten, try some different tapers to find their different uses. One angle of taper does not fit all applications.

There is alot more but this will be sufficient to consider for now.

Last edited by diamondback; 12-11-2007 at 09:53 AM.
Reason: cover both topics

One more vote for Lanthinated

I too have standardized on Lanthinated for all TIG on my inverter-based machine. Makes reordering eletrodes a simple proposition, and I don't have to guess if that gray thing sticking out of my torch is the correct flavor for the metal I'm welding.

On the transformer-based equipment at class, the Lanthinated didn't work so hot (for me) on mild or stainless steel, but fine on Aluminum. This was confusing for me because some guys at the local welding shop were saying Lanthinated should work fine in any machine, and I was trying to figure out if it was my rookie technique or the equipment. Usually I assumed it was not the equipment. However, just get some and try it for yourself. The one thing I have learned about welding is that you ask for advice, but try it out for yourself in your environment. If it works for you, great. If it doesn't, then you can say you tried it.

Thanks for the responses,
I have a synchrowave 350. I welded quite a bit tonight on stainless again. The langth. is awsome, holds point much longer, seems alot more controlleable.
I always point my tung. longways. also sharpen chisels the same way.

i add a small flat to the tung. for AC work. just sharpen it the same as you would for DC then flatten the tip just a lil bit.
are you using 1.5% (gold) or 2% (blue)?????

Samurai Dave makes a good point about trying it for your self. when i first started i tried all the types of tungsten to see for myself how they worked for me, then stuck with 2% lanthanated. for me its the best fit, but many like cerated better for inverters. to each his or her own. best to go with what works best for you, just don't be afraid to try some thing new. it could be just what you wanted even if you didn't know you wanted it.

thanks for the help
......or..........
hope i helped feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat.james@newyorkmetalart.comsummer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
JAMES