Nampula

In 1967 the Portuguese, in the face of Frelimo’s growing disenchantment with colonial rule, established Nampula as their main military base. Its location on the important Nacala–Malawi railway and on the north–south overland route contributed to attach to Nampula the label: ‘capital of the north’. Despite its isolation it is an important service centre for the surrounding area and provides essential amenities. Diesel and petrol (unleaded now readily obtainable) are available, there is cellphone reception, supermarkets and a wide range of accommodation. Because LAM, TransAirways and Air Corridor scheduled flights land here regularly and there are daily trains from Cuamba (near Malawi), Nampula has become the traveller’s hub of the north. It has a hospital, public telephones, migração (visa extensions) and a well-stocked municipal market. The Clube CVFM (Railway Club) is even able to offer a swimming pool with clean water, though they do tend to charge the earth for the privilege of using it.

Cima Walk (uptown): 7km; 4 miles
This walk, starting and ending at the Hotel Polana (designed by renowned British architect Sir Herbert Baker), explores the newer part of Maputo. Built on a hill overlooking...

Around Maputo
Mercado Xipamanine
The history of the Xipamanine market goes back to the days of Lourenço Marques and before, when black traders throughout Mozambique were restricted to the outskirts of cities. Tourists did, however...

Baixa Walk (lower city): 8km; 5 miles
Starting and finishing on the Rua da Sé at the Hotel Rovuma (which has been completely renovated), this route takes in historic old Maputo, and includes a very cheap (if on foot)...