There is a blog post on our web site that discusses the way batteries are rated and the sorts of things that go into determining how long a given battery can power a load. I recommend reading it carefully to better understand what a rating like A (amps) means for an electrical load and how that rating relates to battery life.

Generally there is a range of voltages that electronic components like displays are designed to operate at. Often times, consumer products like a portable DVD player will have different voltage ranges that the various components that have been integrated inside it will require, so they often contain multiple voltage regulators to change a supply voltage to the voltage required by a component or group of components. A voltage regulator like our step-up regulators (which increases the voltage from input to output) or step-down regulators (which decreases the voltage from the input to the output) can be helpful if you have a supply voltage like a battery that is different from the voltage required by a load.

Also, you should be aware that the voltage rating of a battery like a 9V or 12V battery is a nominal rating and that the actual voltage provided can vary by several volts as the battery is charged and discharged. How did you determine the input voltages for your display? If you are only trying batteries with different nominal voltages, I suggest using a multimeter to determine the actual voltage that the battery is supplying to the display to determine where it runs acceptably.

I cannot say which of our regulators or batteries might work for your application with the information you have provided so far. Once you know what voltage you would like to power the display with it should be possible to use a multimeter to determine the amount of electrical current (amps or A) it requires at that voltage. With those numbers, it should be possible to determine if we carry a battery that will power your display for a specified length of time and to determine whether a voltage regulator in your setup might help.

Or is this just not working at all and do i need to get a bigger battery and use a step-down regulator?

---- Recap ----I need some advise for choosing a good battery for my display.I want a rechargable battery that can run for at least one hour.The screen can run on 7.5volt but runs better on 9volts and also works with 12volt.I tested a normal rechargable 9v battery wich can run for ±30 minutes.------------------]]>
Re: 12v step-upJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-07-10T12:38:10-07:002015-07-10T12:38:10-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45180#p45180Forum: ElectronicsHello, Zip.

Using a step-up regulator to power your receiver would probably work. You will want to choose a regulator that can at least provide the current draw of your receiver . You can get a rough idea of the maximum current our regulators can output by looking at the graphs under the "Typical Efficiency and Output Current" section on our regulators product page. I have attached the efficiency graph for the U3V12F12 step-up regulator below.

As you can see from the graph, the amount of current the regulator can output is dependent on the input voltage, so as your battery discharges, the batteries voltage will drop causing the amount of current the regulator can supply to also go down. Please note, you will probably want to monitor the batteries to protect them from being over discharged.

I am not sure how much noise you can expect from your setup, but in general, adding a few capacitors on the input and output of the regulator will help against noise.

- Jeremy]]>
12v step-upziphttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=164532015-07-09T14:43:59-07:002015-07-09T14:43:59-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45175#p45175Forum: ElectronicsI have a receiver that requires 12v and wondering if a step-up regulator like U3V12F12 could be used to allow 9.6v of rechargable nimh battery pack?

In this case the receiver is very sensitive to low voltage, as I assume was designed only for 12v. When power is too low it will power off, so even a set of fully charged rechargeable batteries will not last long.

Can a very small step-up, which will fit in battery compartment, provide a low noise source of power? Since this is an rf receiver, may be sensitive to any noise in the power supply.

Is there an addition of a few capacitors that will give a sufficient filtering of noise, as well as possible other components? Or is this something requiring a scope and trial and error on the device?

How do the step-up react as battery is close to drained? As they try to maintain 12v output will the voltage still drop off at end of life, or will current only be limited? Could there be any damage to a device that is expecting a voltage drop, such as from draining alkaline batteries?

I guess I am wondering if this is a good idea. A sort-of general purpose low noise 12v step-up (from 9.6v) that can replace alkaline batteries.

(I see something similar in usb power packs, stepping up a li-ion cell to 5v, but these are used for charging, i think, and not powering devices)

thanks for any input on thiszip]]>
Re: LC voltage spike app. noteJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-07-06T16:15:37-07:002015-07-06T16:15:37-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45133#p45133Forum: ElectronicsGood luck on your project. Feel free to let us know how it goes.

I'll try using 470uF @ 100v. I don't have an oscilloscope to see if there are any voltage spikes or anything so we'll just have to see if they fry or not. Thanks for your help.

-Nick]]>
Re: LC voltage spike app. noteJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-07-02T13:55:16-07:002015-07-02T13:55:16-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45088#p45088Forum: ElectronicsIt is unclear to me how you calculated 2A for 2% loss in your system. With a single 10 gauge wire, the resistance of the wire is about 1mΩ/ft, so with a 280ft cable (down and back), the voltage drop across the cable flowing 2A would be about 0.56V, which is about 2.3% loss. Also, where is the 2% threshold coming from? With something like our regulators, you get some of that efficiency back when their input voltage is lower. Anyway, it sounds like you already have it all installed, and the fact remains that the bulk of your system power is going to the lights in your cabin, and we are not sure how they would interact with the cables and what kind of voltage fluctuations there would be. Still, a few hundred uF at the inputs of the regulators will probably be fine.

- Jeremy]]>
Re: LC voltage spike app. noteNickd7http://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=164142015-07-02T08:27:39-07:002015-07-02T08:27:39-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45076#p45076Forum: ElectronicsThe battery bank is four 6v deep cycle batteries connected in series to power lights in my cabin, which is 140 feet from my battery bank -- if you're asking why I just don't move the batteries closer to the cabin it's because the cabin is in the trees and the batteries are next to the solar panels which are in a clearing in the sun. Two 10 gauge (5 mm^2) wire equates to about a 7 gauge wire (about 10 mm^2). So with 2% lose I can still only push 2 amps at 24vdc or a whopping 48 watts. Anyway there is a path along which this cable runs that I'm going place these motion sensor lights, each of which pulls about 143mA.

We are missing some details about your system, like why you are using such huge cables and what you are powering with your battery bank, so it is difficult to determine how much capacitance you will need. You will probably have to test the regulator and LED motrion sensor lights in your system to determine what works. You might start with a few hundred uF.

- Jeremy]]>
Re: LC voltage spike app. noteNickd7http://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=164142015-06-30T09:14:40-07:002015-06-30T09:14:40-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45040#p45040Forum: ElectronicsI have some LED motion sensor lights that use 4 D size batteries that I use at a cabin, they draw 143mA. I want to hook these up to my 24v battery bank. I ordered some D24V5F6 voltage regulators (6V, 500mA Step-Down). I tested the lights using the voltage regulators with a bench top power supply and used something like 100v 50μF electrolytic capacitor to protect the regulator. The lights and regulator worked fine. My cabin is connected to my batteries with 2 sets of 10 gauge cables run in parallel about 140 feet long (I needed larger than 10 gauge but already had a bunch of 10 gauge landscaping wire so I just double it up). My question is how large of a capacitor do I need if I'm connecting these voltage regulators to these long large cables? Or even better how to I calculate it?

-Nick]]>
Re: How to build a line follower robot without any coding?madhavihttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=163972015-06-29T21:58:38-07:002015-06-29T21:58:38-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45034#p45034Forum: ElectronicsThanks Nathan. I want to build it for learning purpose. Will go with one of your suggestions.]]>
Re: How to build a line follower robot without any coding?nathanbhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=137002015-06-29T15:36:44-07:002015-06-29T15:36:44-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45025#p45025Forum: ElectronicsHello.

If you just want to build a robot without writing any new code, our 3pi and Zumo robots come with line following example code that can be loaded and is generally functional without any further modification.

-Nathan]]>
How to build a line follower robot without any coding?madhavihttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=163972015-06-26T19:58:19-07:002015-06-26T19:58:19-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=45000#p45000Forum: ElectronicsI want to build a line follower robot but haven't worked on microcontrollers or any experience of programming. Can I build a simple robot without microcontrollers?]]>
Re: Can anybody identify this part?sheroroxhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=163772015-06-24T09:13:30-07:002015-06-24T09:13:30-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44967#p44967Forum: ElectronicsI found it. It's this: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/dat ... partdetail]]>
Can anybody identify this part?sheroroxhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=163772015-06-23T13:59:13-07:002015-06-23T13:59:13-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44954#p44954Forum: ElectronicsHi,

I need to find the 12-pin crimp housing wire-to-board connector that can fit in this part(yellow seen in pictures: 20150623_153036.jpg finalpics.PNG) but I have very limited knowledge on electronics terminology. I am trying to find the connector that looks like this:

that can fit into the part I have in my PCB.

Thank you.]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBIndefiniteBenhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154562015-06-09T16:52:19-07:002015-06-09T16:52:19-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44769#p44769Forum: ElectronicsHi Jon,You know, when I soldered wires into the 232 adapter I made the same mistake. Made the same mistake again, haha. I'm actually glad it was a stupid mistake like this instead of something more complicated. Connected with the CHRobotics Program and it works! Finally, haha. Now just to get the data with MATLAB...Thanks for all your help!]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBJonathanKoshhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92692015-06-09T16:22:22-07:002015-06-09T16:22:22-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44767#p44767Forum: ElectronicsHello.

It looks like you might have switched your RX and TX connections. RX from the USB-to-serial adapter should connect to TX on the UM6, and TX on the adapter should connect to RX on the UM6. Table 6. of the "UM6 Ultra-Miniature Orientation Sensor Datasheet" (which you can find under the Resources tab of the UM6's product page) makes it seem like the white wire on your UM6 is RX and the yellow wire on your UM6 is TX. If you still get a timeout error after switching those connections, I recommend doing a loopback test. You can do a loopback test by connecting the USB-to-serial adapter's RX pin to its own TX pin, disconnecting the rest of your system, and sending something with a terminal program to see if it gets echoed back. Also, if things are still not working, can you tell me how much current your US-to-serial adapter can supply?

-Jon]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBIndefiniteBenhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154562015-06-08T16:24:10-07:002015-06-08T16:24:10-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44744#p44744Forum: ElectronicsHello it's me again!I finally got a USB-UART adapter, but after connecting it, it still times out when I try to connect! Am I doing something stupid again, or is there a bigger problem?Black=blackWhite=whiteRed=purpleYellow=greyHere's the sensor:Serial adapter:

Adapter page: https://www.silabs.com/products/interface/usbtouart/Pages/usb-to-uart-bridge.aspxI installed the latest driver from their page and installed it. Shouldn't this work using the CHR Serial Interface as it is? Or do I need to do something else?I also get a timeout error when trying to connect and get data using MATLAB.Also get the same error when connecting to 3V3 instead of 5V on the adapter.The LED on both the AHRS and adapter light up and stay lit solidly; never flashing.Thanks.]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBJonathanKoshhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92692015-06-04T08:21:48-07:002015-06-04T08:21:48-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44682#p44682Forum: ElectronicsI am glad you figured it out; thanks for letting us know what the issue was!

-Jon]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBchrischartershttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=161922015-06-02T21:36:44-07:002015-06-02T21:36:44-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44663#p44663Forum: ElectronicsThanks for taking the time to reply Jon!!

As I was playing around with the UM6 more the next day, I found a code that used my mbed to read the data from the UM6 to the USB serial output. After a lot of tinkering, I finally got it to send data! I later found a Pololu USB to serial adapter in my lab, and it worked even better. I've thus concluded it was an issue with the USB2Dynamixel adapter I was using.

I am sorry you are having trouble connecting to your UM6. From your description, I am not entirely sure how you are connecting everything. If you post a schematic that shows how you have everything connected, I would be happy to take a look at it.

Alternatively, you might consider contacting the manufacturer of that board, CH Robotics, by posting on their forum, which is the best place to get support for their products.

I am having similar connectivity issues with my CHR-UM6, but I am using a TTL to RS-232 converter breakout board...

I've wired the VCC and ground pins of the CHR-UM6 to the 5.0V regulated output of an mbed microcontroller and its ground. The TX and RX pins of the sensor are connected to the RX and the TX pins respectively on an RS-232 shifter (sorry, not a pololu product.. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/449), which is powered by the same mbed source. I'm using a ROBOTIS USB2Dynamixel (http://support.robotis.com/en/product/a ... manual.htm) adapter (with the switch set for RS-232) to connect the serial RS-232 to a USB hub.

The power light comes on, and the TX LED on my RS-232 shifter flashes rapidly, but when I start up and run the CHR Serial Interface program, I get a timeout error. I've tried using PuTTY to access the serial more directly, but it is to no avail. The USB/Serial adapter I'm using also registers on my device manager, so the drivers are installed.

I'd really appreciate any help on this you can give. This is the only forum I found where some one has experienced this type of error! I feel like there must be something obvious I'm over looking... I might buy your USB to Serial adapter (https://www.pololu.com/product/1308) if it would work any better than the setup I have now!

Where I am tapping power, there's already a capacitor but I'm guessing I need to put one right at the step-up board as well.

Thanks for the help and forgiving my newbishness :)]]>
Re: Newb question regarding wiring for 12v step-upJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-05-14T15:28:51-07:002015-05-14T15:28:51-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44467#p44467Forum: ElectronicsYes. If you post a wiring diagram of your proposed connections, I would be happy to take a look at it.

- Jeremy]]>
Re: Newb question regarding wiring for 12v step-upoakcityhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=161312015-05-14T14:40:59-07:002015-05-14T14:40:59-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44465#p44465Forum: ElectronicsSo, not to sound dense but when you say "across the regulator" -- we are referring to connecting the polarized capacitor in the manner I stated... connecting the ground to the VIN pin with a polarized cap. Is that correct?

I'm no electronics wizard, but I have some knowledge. Anyhow, I'm currently working to power a 8-bit gimbal controller that requires 3S voltage from a RC Eye One quadcopter that has 2S power available on board. I'm hoping to use a step-up from the available 2S voltage through a U3V12F12 step-up to power it. My understanding is the current draw is maxed around 300mA so this seems do-able.

However, I also know this 8-bit controller won't like a voltage spike. The wording in the product description is probably straight forward but I want to be sure I don't create a short and I get the RIGHT capacitor.

I would like to know, what would be the best capacitor for this application and exactly how does it get wired in? The way I read it is that I use a 33uf or higher polarized capacitor with the (-) side connected to ground and the (+) side of the cap connected to the VIN pin. Size doesn't matter, just weight and reliability. I don't want to accidentally short a Lipo battery so thought I'd ask first before I do anything :).

THANKS]]>
Re: Pololu 3.3V Step-Up Voltage Regulator U1V11F3mjiddahttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=159222015-04-14T11:01:47-07:002015-04-14T11:01:47-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44138#p44138Forum: ElectronicsThank you Claire,It could be that it is a power source problem. I will check that again]]>
Re: Pololu 3.3V Step-Up Voltage Regulator U1V11F3Clairehttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92702015-04-13T16:22:49-07:002015-04-13T16:22:49-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44128#p44128Forum: ElectronicsHi.

I tested some and they started up fine with a slowly rising input. 0.5V is right at the limit of operation of this device, are you sure your power source is actually delivering past that limit, and not dropping back below it as soon as the regulator tries to draw power?

-Claire]]>
Pololu 3.3V Step-Up Voltage Regulator U1V11F3mjiddahttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=159222015-04-12T09:06:58-07:002015-04-12T09:06:58-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=44115#p44115Forum: ElectronicsHello everyone!I am using the Step-Up voltage Regulator U1V11F3 in my Energy harvesting project.the aim of the project is to transmit data wirelessly from a Thermoelectric generator (TEG) mounted on a rocket nuzzle to a host computer using the Embedded device (EZ430-RF2500) from Texas Instrument.

I am using the Step-Up voltage Regulator U1V11F3 to step-up voltage in the range (0.5V - 1V) coming from the TEG to a voltage of 3.3V so as to be able to power the Embedded device.But it turns out that the control line of the U1V11F3 requires a rising edge for it to fire up, it doesn't just start up with a supply voltage of 0.5V. I observed this by supplying 0.5V using DC-Power Generator and every time i have to on and off the DC-Power Generator before the U1V11F3 fires up.

I have thought of using a Schmitt trigger, but it didn't work.

Any advice on how to go about this issue? because when carrying out the project in the field i have no control over the voltage supply, in fact i will not be present in the field for safety reasons. so i need something that will create like a rising edge to the U1V11F3.

That was my observation, so please if you could suggest some external circuit that can be used to resolve this i would really appreciate it

I believe it is an impedance problem with the PCI card I am using to read the signals. Removing this cable the outputs are 5V as expected. I will be getting differential line drivers to fix this problem. Thank you anyway.]]>
Help - Pololu magnetic encoders, low voltage outputmatthoshttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=157812015-03-18T13:18:51-07:002015-03-18T13:18:51-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43697#p43697Forum: ElectronicsI have been trying to use the Pololu magnetic encoders for the metal micromotors.

The problem I am having is that the outputs of "A" and "B" are around 750 mV, rather than the 5V it should be. I am powering the encoder board with 5V, and have checked the power and ground connections. I have four different motors and each is behaving this way.

Any help figuring out what's wrong is greatly appreciated.]]>
Re: Difficulty Installing p-load under Mac OSX 10.9.5granthttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=105802015-03-13T14:56:38-07:002015-03-13T14:56:38-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43617#p43617Forum: ElectronicsIt sounds like you do not have the "/usr/local/bin" directory. You should be able to make the directory using the following command:

sudo mkdir -p /usr/local/bin

After you make the directory, could you retry the P-Star installation instructions?

Is this any help? CJr]]>
Re: Difficulty Installing p-load under Mac OSX 10.9.5granthttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=105802015-03-12T11:10:18-07:002015-03-12T11:10:18-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43602#p43602Forum: ElectronicsIt looks like you don't have a "/usr/local/bin" folder. To help us better understand how your system is set up, could you run the following commands?

I am also puzzled as to why dragging and dropping "P-load" file to the alias as directed by the the Pololu installation instructions doesn't work. I can send screen images if that would help. Do you have access to a Mac to try the installation?

It looks like you might have a typo when searching for the file. It should be "/usr/local/bin" not "use/local/bin". If you search in that location, can you find the file?

- Grant]]>
Difficulty Installing p-load under Mac OSX 10.9.5CJrhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=157032015-03-09T13:20:53-07:002015-03-09T13:20:53-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43533#p43533Forum: ElectronicsI just purchased a P-Star 25K50 Micro and downloaded the User Guide (https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J62). When I get to the "Getting Started" section under "5.1. Installing p-load and drivers" for "Mac OS X", I followed the directions ... "If you are using Mac OS X, you should download the Pololu USB Bootloader Utility (p-load) for Mac OS X [https://www.pololu.com/file/download/p-load-1.0.0.dmg?file_id=0J802] (33k dmg). Double click on the dmg file to open it, and then follow the instructions in README.txt to install the utility."

After opening the "dmg" file to mount the virtual disk as a "p-load" window, the "README.txt" file it says ..."To install, drag "p-load" to "usrlocalbin"." I click on the "p-load" file and drag it over the "usrlocalbin" file in the "p-load" window and nothing happens. Normally, I believe this should copy the "p-load" file to the referenced directory.

Opening "Terminal" on my Mac, I cannot find the "use/local/bin" directory that the "ReadME.txt" file says is the install location. I have limited experience with Unix - especially on a Mac.

I need some help getting "p-load" installed. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks, CJr]]>
Re: Potentiometer with LED Strip on arduinoAmandaShttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=131772015-02-20T12:38:41-08:002015-02-20T12:38:41-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43322#p43322Forum: ElectronicsHello.

I added code tags ([ code ] [ /code ] - without spaces) to your post; please use this method to post code in the future.

- Amanda]]>
Potentiometer with LED Strip on arduinovo7inhhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=155922015-02-19T09:37:45-08:002015-02-20T13:46:12-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43302#p43302Forum: ElectronicsHi I need help in getting the potentiometer to work with the LED RGB STRIP, below is the code i've been working with. Thanks for feedback

You can power the Maestro from a single power supply. The supply must be within 5–16 V, be within the servos’ respective operating ranges, and be capable of supplying all the current that the servos will draw. You can read more about using one power supply for your Maestros and servos in the "Powering the Maestro" section of the Maestro user's guide.

My question is regarding power. I understand that I can power the controller processor off USB but need additional power for the servos. I would like to power these from the mains as the gauge will be stationary and always close to power sockets. What do I need to consider when powering servos from the mains? Any special hardware requirements? Any recommended products?

I would appreciate it if someone could help steer me in the right direction.

Thanks! ]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBDerrillhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=103542015-02-02T17:16:49-08:002015-02-02T17:16:49-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43028#p43028Forum: ElectronicsOur USB-to-TTL serial adapter should work fine between the UM6 and a computer. You can see how to connect those wires in the "Using the UM6 Without the Serial Breakout Board" section of the "Getting Started with the UM6 Orientation Sensor" application note. If you still have issues after using a serial adapter like that, please post again, and we can look further into those issues.

-Derrill]]>
Re: Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBIndefiniteBenhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154562015-01-31T07:31:00-08:002015-01-31T07:31:00-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=43002#p43002Forum: ElectronicsHi Derrill,Thanks for your quick reply. So using the adapter you linked is the best solution? I just connect all four of the wires from the UM6 to that adapter and it will connect properly with my computer and work safely?

You are correct; the USB to RS-232 adapter you are using is not appropriate to use with the UM6. It only accepts TTL serial signals. You should try using a USB-to-TTL serial adapter instead.

Also, please note that since RS-232 signals can be ±15V, so connecting the TX pin from the adapter to the UM6 might damage the UM6.

-Derrill]]>
Timeout error connecting CHR-UM6 with PC over USBIndefiniteBenhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154562015-01-30T13:44:26-08:002015-01-30T13:44:26-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42989#p42989Forum: ElectronicsHi, I am trying to use a Pololu CHR-UM6 for a Uni project and am having trouble getting the data from the sensor.It's entirely possible I'm just making a stupid mistake as my electronics knowledge isn't too good... (I connected the Rx wire to the Rx pin when I was soldering the wires to a RS232 connector).

1. I soldered the Rx and Tx wires to their appropriate pins (eventually) on an RS232 connector.2. Plugged that into the parallax USBtoSER adapter.3. Connected the USB cable to my computer and the GND and V wires to a desk power supply.4. CHR-UM6 PWR light turned on, as well as the connection and (flashing) data light on the adapter.5. Opened the CHR Serial Interface v3.0.9 (which I got from the download section of the sensor page) (I also tried opening the program before connecting the sensor).6. Pressed the connect button, which became greyed out.7. Received the error message "Error: Timeout while communicating with sensor.

This is my problem, obviously. From what I read here, it might be the USB to SER adapter I'm using? Is there some other stupid mistake I'm making?

Thanks for your help.]]>
Re: Problems with S18V20ALVClairehttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92702015-01-30T10:23:12-08:002015-01-30T10:23:12-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42985#p42985Forum: ElectronicsIt is a 100k potentiometer.

Another thing that might be related to your issue that I forgot to mention in my last post is that we recommend using a light load like a 10k to 100k resistor while setting the output of this regulator. Are you using a load when trying to set the output voltage? If so, what kind of load is it?

-Claire]]>
Re: Problems with S18V20ALVmcredellehttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154412015-01-29T12:03:58-08:002015-01-29T12:03:58-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42967#p42967Forum: ElectronicsCan you tell me the value of the potentiometer at least?]]>
Re: Problems with S18V20ALVClairehttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92702015-01-29T11:21:28-08:002015-01-29T11:21:28-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42966#p42966Forum: ElectronicsHi.

I am sorry you are having trouble setting the output voltage of your regulators. We do not release the schematics for the S18V20ALV regulator, but it would seem very odd to me for the potentiometers on them to fail in the way you described. Please note, that regulator has a maximum rated output voltage of 12V (though it is possible that your particular units can be set up to 12.5V). Since very small adjustments of the potentiometer on the upper end of the voltage range can cause large changes in the output voltage, I suspect that you might be turning the potentiometer too far and thus setting it to the lowest output voltage, and it is just taking a few moments for the voltage to fall. Does the drift still happen if you set the output to something lower like 9V?

-Claire]]>
Problems with S18V20ALVmcredellehttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154412015-01-28T14:41:52-08:002015-01-28T14:41:52-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42956#p42956Forum: ElectronicsI have two of these variable regulators, but I can not use the potentiometer to set a stable voltage. I turn the pot slightly and it jumps to 12.5V then I can adjust it but after removing my screw driver the voltage just drifts down. Is there a schematic I can access so I can just remove the potentiometer and install a fixed resistor?

Thanks for the suggestion; we'll try to make it clearer. The main solution is, if you can, stick a large electrolytic cap across your power input, close to your ceramic capacitor.

-Nathan]]>
Re: Help with SVP-1284 to OSMC ESCJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-01-26T15:41:01-08:002015-01-26T15:41:01-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42911#p42911Forum: ElectronicsLike I mentioned in a previous post, ESCs generally accept RC servo pules for control. Does the controller you are planning on using accept RC servo signals? Could you provide a link to the controller? If you are trying to send PWM signals to your controller, it might be easier to use the available PWM outputs (PB3 and PB4) on the Orangutan SVP.

- Jeremy]]>
Re: Help with SVP-1284 to OSMC ESClim shi haohttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=125672015-01-23T17:24:34-08:002015-01-23T17:24:34-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42876#p42876Forum: ElectronicsI am planning on using a OSMC motor controller from robot power. According to the schematics, I should not pulse out more than 16khz when all the FETs are installed.]]>
Re: Help with SVP-1284 to OSMC ESCJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-01-23T17:19:10-08:002015-01-23T17:19:10-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42875#p42875Forum: ElectronicsIt is unclear what you mean by change the servo ports to 16 kHz. Servo pulses range from about 1 ms to 2 ms, so it would not be possible to send servo signals at 16kHz. Could you tell me why you are trying to change the servo ports to 16 kHz?

- Jeremy]]>
Re: Help with SVP-1284 to OSMC ESClim shi haohttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=125672015-01-23T11:05:33-08:002015-01-23T11:05:33-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42868#p42868Forum: ElectronicsIs it possible to change the pwm output frequency of the svp servo ports to 16khz? If yes may I know how?]]>
Re: LC voltage spike app. noteGooserhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=154062015-01-22T12:35:15-08:002015-01-22T12:35:15-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42853#p42853Forum: ElectronicsLots of good pictures of how NOT to do it.

I doubt what you are encountering is the kind of LC spike issue discussed in that article. You should look at the voltage to your computer on an oscilloscope when you change your battery (you might want to start without the computer connected if you want to avoid destroying more of them). It's possible the voltage is just going too high when no battery is present.

-Nathan]]>
New member, need adviseTommydhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=150112015-01-04T07:21:55-08:002015-01-04T07:21:55-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42601#p42601Forum: ElectronicsHello everybody! I just subscribed to this forum while looking for information on how to avoid burning a touchscreen computer for a kiosk that is powered by a solar panel 12V battery combination. We've burned several computers while changing drained batteries to charged batteries.

The connection to the computer comes from a Morningstar Sunsaver -10 12V charge controler. The solar panel, battery and load (computer/touchscreen) connect to the controler that unfortunately, does not control the output to the computer.

The solar controler tries to draw as much as possible from the panel to keep the battery charged but by the same token pushes out as much output as possible. We've therefore, been subjecting more than the 12V and an more than necessary amps to the computer.

The touchscreen computer has a factory 5 amp power supply but the touchscreen only needs .2 amps. We're connecting to power with a DC plug.

It's Sunday and I'm on eastern standard time so I'm stuck til tommorrow any suggestions for solutions offered are welcome.

Happy new Year to all,Tom]]>
Re: Help with SVP-1284 to OSMC ESCJeremyThttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=102522015-01-02T13:28:08-08:002015-01-02T13:28:08-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42578#p42578Forum: ElectronicsHello.

Generally, ESCs accept servo signals for control, so you could probably use one of the 8 servo outputs that uses the AVR’s hardware PWMs on the Orangutan SVP to control the ESC. Our AVR C/C++ library makes it easy to generate servo pulses. You can read more about generating servo signals with the Orangutan SVP in the "Orangutan Servo Control Functions" section of the Pololu AVR C/C++ Library user's guide.

Thanks.]]>
Re: Analyzing USB Mouse WiringDavidEGraysonhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=10152014-12-03T16:37:43-08:002014-12-03T16:37:43-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42131#p42131Forum: ElectronicsYou might try a USB type-A jack. At one point I soldered the metal part of a type-A socket to a quarter-sized perma-proto board in order to create a fake USB port. That just takes care of the physical connections though; the actual signals and data packets you will need to send in order to communicate with your mouse are complicated, so I still think you should get some device that was designed to act as a USB host.

All that I want to do is to move the mouse, have Arduino recognize that it has moved and how far from the previous point.

I would need a breakout board that can host regular size USB. Pololu doesn't seem to carry it. Maybe I can build one?]]>
Re: Analyzing USB Mouse WiringDavidEGraysonhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=10152014-12-02T11:24:44-08:002014-12-02T11:24:44-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42095#p42095Forum: ElectronicsIf you're trying to get data using the mouse's USB interface, you'll probably have to spend some time reading the USB specification, revision 2.0, which can be downloaded here:

There is an unshielded wire which I assume is the ground and the red one which I assume is the +ve. the other three wires are Black, White and Blue. This was a Fujitsu mouse.

What is a good way of determining which of the additional three wires transmits what information?]]>
Re: Analyzing USB Mouse WiringDavidEGraysonhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=10152014-12-01T22:04:17-08:002014-12-01T22:04:17-08:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=42088#p42088Forum: ElectronicsHello.

There should be 4 wires coming from the USB cable that are soldered to the mouse PCB. One of those will be GND and another will be VBUS (5V). Can you see those wires and tell what colors they are? To safely power your system, you might consider using a benchtop power supply with an adjustable current limit.

I am working on a project that will require input from a mouse when it moves. I have taken apart many USB mice and tried powering them out of an Arduino 5v pin.

I usually get lucky with determination of which wires of the mouse are for its power supply. And tonight I fried my Leonardo by trying different wires.

Is there a better way of determining the wiring of the USB to the mouse to figure out what the power supply lines are and what the output of the other wires are?

And the safest way to power these things is not to connect them to the controllers. I have supplied 5v from controller to them and it has been okay for the mouse. But it would be nice to be able to figure out their voltage needs and experiment without having to connect to the controller power supply. Any recommendations?

Kind regards]]>
Re: 60LED 1MStrip data line is malfunctioning-Arduino Mega 2Tomekhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=97212014-10-31T12:31:24-07:002014-10-31T12:31:24-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41694#p41694Forum: ElectronicsAdafruit recently came out with a tutorial for their NeoPixels and using a ton of them at once. The tutorial covers a lot of the common problems you can have with these type of addressable strips. Basically what you can do to fix it and such.]]>
Re: Need help: Increasing Potmeter Signal without an OpAmpLodihttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=134842014-10-31T08:08:26-07:002014-10-31T08:08:26-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41689#p41689Forum: ElectronicsThanks for the reply,

If you do not want to use an op-amp, it would probably be easier to lower the range of the encoder output to match the potentiometers range with a different voltage divider. You can then adjust the input scaling parameter of the jrk to match the range of both inputs. You can read more about adjusting the input scaling in the "Input Options" section of the jrk user's guide.

two (switched) analog input signals:Encoder : 0-5v (0-10v but with a voltage-divider)Potmeter: 0-1,7v (I am only using a small part of the 270 degree range)

This setup is chosen to be able to switch between automated input, or manual input. But without constantly configuring the jrk, how am I going to make this work?I was told that I could use a rail-to-rail OpAmp circuit, but that would require a bipolar power supply, and I don't want to use that(goal is to keep everything simple).

It sounds like you might have a power issue. What are you using as your power supply? How much current do your motors draw?

- Jeremy]]>
URGENT! H-Bridge control input problem!jianshenhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=135292014-10-21T12:57:03-07:002014-10-21T12:57:03-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41550#p41550Forum: ElectronicsI had been working on this for few weeks, and yet i couldn't find a proper solution.Time is ticking for submission and i'm a dead meat in few days if i cant solve this problemI used L293D, and also L298N and the same problem still exist.

I wants my motor to move forward, so i sent High & Low for IN1 and IN2 respectively from my microprocessor. Same goes of the other half of the bridge. However, after powering the motor, i found out that the motor does not run at the desire speed. The situation goes worse when i power the VCC2 of the h-bridge with higher voltage, where one motor runs quite decently and the other one runs like turtle.

I did a few tests, and here's my result.

1) I swapped the motor from bridge B to A, and A to B. The same thing happens regardless. So i am crossing out faults on motor and wires connecting motor.

2) I've tried capacitors to reduce noise of motors, but it doesn't work still

3) Both motor runs perfectly fine when i connect the h-bridge input IN1 and IN2 to 5V and ground respectively. Both motor runs at almost the same speed, so no difference in speed issue.

4) When i measure the input signal from my microprocessor without powering the motor, it gives IN 1 = 5VIN 2 = 0VIN 3 = 5VIN 4 = 0V.This means the programming should be fine.

Bridge A is the bridge that runs slowly, Bridge B is the bridge that runs at moderate speed.

I am guessing this might be the source of the problem?Anyone can tell me what is actually happening and how to rectify the problem?]]>
Re: Motion Sensing DeviceFarzadhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133192014-10-20T19:59:26-07:002014-10-20T19:59:26-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41541#p41541Forum: ElectronicsI have made more progress in finding resources and I will keep posting them here in case someone else has these same questions.

In this video you see someone who is doing the same thing as I want to do except that I don't care about the travelled distance and all that I want to do is to have something else done as soon as motion is sensed. I am sure it will be a fun program to write as soon as the right hardware is located. Right now it looks like the mouse industry is at a pause.

It looks like you are using our Arduino library for addressable RGB LED strips with an LED strip that we do not carry, but if it worked for you at some point, this probably is not the problem. I do not know if your LED strips work the same way as the ones we carry, but it does not look like you have taken any of the precautions noted under the "Connecting the LED strip" heading of our WS2812B Addressable RGB LED strip product pages. As mentioned in that note, it might only be the first LED that is damaged; you might try cutting it off and connecting to the second segment (preferably after adding some protection against damaging the strip). Also, please note that it is generally not good practice to make or break electrical connections while part of your system is powered, and you should not send signals to your LED strip unless the strip is powered.

-Brandon]]>
60LED 1MStrip data line is malfunctioning-Arduino Mega 2560tyzoidhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=135212014-10-19T12:42:34-07:002014-10-20T18:41:35-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41517#p41517Forum: ElectronicsHere's the problem I'm having:I recently got two 60LED 1M strips, and it worked great until I tried them today. Emphasis: this worked fine at one point.I tried to turn it on this morning, and I'm greeted with a stuck LED (though the LED has since changed positions and also changes colors) and an unresponsive data line.

I double check all of the wiring on my end, and it doesn't appear to be a problem with any of the solder connections or arduino pins. I was able to verify that pin 12 (the default data pin in the example code) was sending some sort of oscillating signal, confirmed by a noticeable noise when I hooked up an 8ohm speaker between pin 12 and ground.

This happens when I use my battery pack (4xDcell=6v) as well as my power brick (5v), both of which worked before.

I think it's funny to note that the stuck LEDs occur in approximately the same spot, with minor variation, and that the green light is never activated - only red and blue.

I'm running the example program LedStripGradient verbatim.

Here's a few images of my setup/what's happening

And here's a video. Note, you may have to rotate your eyeballs to see this properly.X6VU1GlENdE

The lights turning on/off and flickering is me toggling the power applied to the strip (but not arduino - as it's powered by my computer's USB port.)

Has anyone run into this before/have any suggestions as to what to test next?]]>
Re: Motion Sensing DeviceFarzadhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133192014-10-18T13:15:21-07:002014-10-18T13:15:21-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41513#p41513Forum: ElectronicsSo far I have found this to be very promising:

But it seems it has been discontinued with nothing apparently replacing it which is odd since we still are using optical mice.]]>
Motion Sensing DeviceFarzadhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133192014-10-18T12:52:12-07:002014-10-18T12:52:12-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41511#p41511Forum: ElectronicsHi,

In trying to design a calibration device that can monitor motion of a surface I attempted to use existing electronic in a typical optical mouse. It has what I need and unfortunately a whole lot more.

I am sure that simple circuits that have the right sensors, LED as well as navigation engine already exist somewhere.

As you know an optical mouse works by comparing pictures that it takes from the surface that it is on. It apparently is capable of taking at least 1500 pictures each second and able to detect a difference and then determine which direction the mouse (or the surface) has moved.

I am looking to do that. And once I am able to trigger a response, I am hoping to send that to an Arduino controller and turn one of its pins high so that instructions can be sent to other electroinc parts of my project.

I would not recommend you build a motor control circuit using the L298. The L298 is dated and there are better options for motor driver ICs. You should consider using a more modern, MOSFET-based driver like the VNH5019 or our dual VNH5019 shield. Alternatively, instead of building your own motor control circuit, you might be interested in using one of our simple motor controllers such as the SMC 18v7 to control your motors.

- Amanda]]>
4 Wheel motor control for R-Pi BotRPihackerhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=134712014-10-05T06:20:41-07:002014-10-05T06:20:41-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=41289#p41289Forum: ElectronicsHey guys I have searched for hours online for a schematic / project plans to build a 6V, with a stall current ~2A motor control circuit to support a Raspberry Pi controlled bot that will use 4 Pololu 25D mm metal gear motors to drive its 4 wheels.

After researching motor controls in general I would like to build the motor control circuit using an L298 IC; however, I am open to any components / information that will meet the project needs.

Advice on where to find usable schematics or project plans would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

PROJECT INFORMATION:The project is to build a robot from scratch - platform (acrylic) and all circuits that I can, as well as support equipment such as a variable DC power supply and NiHM battery charge in one project box.

The power supply and charger phase of the project are in the parts purchasing stage, and soon will move to the bread-board phase.

We moved your post to the general electronics section. If you are still having the problem with the motor disconnected, it sounds like it might be an issue between the Arduino and IMU. I recommend checking all your connections and seeing if anything changed when you moved it over to the protoboards.

I am not sure how the addition of a capacitor is affecting your IMU. You might try contacting the manufacturer, SparkFun, for additional assistance with that board.

- Jeremy]]>
Re: Trouble connecting to MPU9150vegeokuhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133812014-09-11T17:33:02-07:002014-09-11T17:33:02-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40917#p40917Forum: ElectronicsAdded in a .11 and 1uF capacitors near the sensor, and I'm still having issues. Also, the issues are presenting now without having the battery/motors connected. I'm guessing this is just a problem with my sensor then? I don't have a second one to test with, any ideas?

Edit: On the upside. After adding in the capacitors I am able to restart quickly. Where before I would have to leave everything unplugged for a couple minutes before it would let me connect again, now it's within a couple of seconds. I disconnect the battery, plug it back in and it will typically start working again. What would be causing this?]]>
Trouble connecting to MPU9150vegeokuhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133812014-09-11T10:05:20-07:002014-09-11T10:05:20-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40908#p40908Forum: ElectronicsI'm working on a two wheeled balancing robot and I'm having a little difficulty. Everything was working fine at first( for a day or so ) and now I'm having problems with my IMU (MPU-9150). Using my Arduino I'm able to connect to the IMU and get the readings from it just fine, however when I connect the battery pack and start running the motors I will lose connection to the IMU after a few seconds to a couple minutes, it's somewhat random. Then even when I disconnect the battery pack I have to disconnect all power and wait a few minutes to be able to connect to it again.

Maybe the voltage is noisy and that's messing with the IMU? On my breadboard I didn't have these issues, but I also had a 10uF capacitor between the 3.3V line and ground near the IMU. I've moved the design to a protoboard, but left out the capacitor. Should I try adding this back in?

When I say I'm unable to connect to the IMU, I found some code online for 9 axis sensor fusion using the MPU 9150 (https://github.com/kriswiner/MPU-9150), at the beginning of each read it checks the I2C address (code readByte(MPU9150_ADDRESS, WHO_AM_I_MPU9150); // Read WHO_AM_I register for MPU-9150 ), and where it should be 0x68, the reading I'm getting is typically 0x01 or 0x00 when it stops working. I'm not sure if this is actually a problem, I don't fully understand the I2C bus. Can I remove this restriction, will I still be able to get the readings from the sensors?

Since I wrote to you I have tried many different programs and am now fully committed to Eagle CAD. It is the best, and not too hard to learn.

Thanks for the input.

Farzad]]>
Re: Final Assembly Board?BrandonMhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=109542014-09-05T17:32:49-07:002014-09-05T17:32:49-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40841#p40841Forum: ElectronicsI have not used it myself, but another engineer here suggested ExpressPCB, which is a free design tool that claims to be easy to learn. However, I do not know if you can get the fabrication files from it to send to a different company to manufacture or if it is proprietary and you have to go through them. A quick Internet search brings up a lot of other results, but since I do not have experience with many of them, I am not sure how powerful or easy to use they are.

We have not characterized our stepper motor drivers with heat sinks, so we do not have any specific recommendations for adding them. However, I suspect adding heat sinks to both sides of the PCB to be better than adding a heat sink to a single side. As for connecting directly to your aluminum socket, I do not see an obvious reason that would not work. Just be sure the socket is not shorting together pins that should not be connected together. Also, you might try looking for advice on the RepRap website or forum.

-Jon]]>
Re: Final Assembly Board?Farzadhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133192014-09-04T22:29:14-07:002014-09-04T22:29:14-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40833#p40833Forum: ElectronicsBrandon, the perma-proto boards may work for me (and I have one already) but there is a lot of wiring in between the A4988 and the Arduino Micro that I am connecting together to run a motor. There are things like capacitors and switches too. A custom board would be the best.

It looks like the board manufacturers and parts places use software like Eagle that are pretty powerful and very complicated to learn and use. Is there a simple program that you can suggest that can be useful with online manufacturers?

I basically want to have a PCB built that is prewired for the components that I will be soldering onto it. There is no design involved.

Thanks.]]>
Re: VNH3SP30 - no out over 7V power supplymsadyshttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=133622014-09-04T10:56:18-07:002014-09-04T10:56:18-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40827#p40827Forum: ElectronicsProblem was in grounding, stupid mistake. Thank you Jonathan.]]>
Re: Final Assembly Board?BrandonMhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=109542014-09-04T10:48:30-07:002014-09-04T10:48:30-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40825#p40825Forum: ElectronicsHello.

I have moved your question to the "Electronics" section of the forum.

Moving your project from a solderless breadboard to a more permanent solution can be done in many ways. You might consider using perma-proto boards, which are internally connected like on a breadboard, but allow you to solder through-hole components onto the board. If you are interested in this, you might look through our "Prototyping PCBs" category to see if we carry one that is the right size and fit for your project. Also, if you wanted to make your A4988 carrier removable/replaceable, you can solder female headers into the proto-boards to make a socket for it.

For an even more customized and permanent solution, you might consider designing a PCB that your other boards can attach to, and using a service such as OSH Park to get it manufactured.

-Brandon]]>
Re: VNH3SP30 - no out over 7V power supplyJonathanKoshhttp://forum.pololu.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=92692014-09-03T16:54:59-07:002014-09-03T16:54:59-07:00http://forum.pololu.com/viewtopic.php?p=40815#p40815Forum: ElectronicsCan you check to make sure you are grounding your Arduino and the VNH3SP30 together? If you post pictures of your connections, I can check for you.

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so, can you post pictures of the PWM signals you are sending from your Arduino? Can you also post your code?

I don't know where this topic might belong and I appreciate it if it can be moved to an appropriate forum if not this one.

I am building a stepper motor control system (Arduino + A4988) for a special purpose and once I have tried its ultimate possibilities for my project, I would like to move the project from the breadboard and mount it permanently and neatly on another board that is already pre-wired to properly connect the seat on which the controller sits and the seat on which the driver will be sitting, and then the whole thing will be boxed and screwed onto something.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what the best way to go about this is?