Using magnets, I stuck a sheet of 220 grit onto the Powermatic 66 cast iron top.

I then sanded the backside of the plate.

After a minute, the backside showed cupping in the center.

After a couple more minutes, the back was flat and properly scored so that the epoxy glue would adhere well.

I chose a double-tube epoxy that had a 5 minute work time.

To prep the wooden blank, I centered the plate and placed tape to mark where the ends of the plate would be.

Epoxy glue was brushed on the the wood and the plate.

Seating the brass wear strip.

Applying the caul...I strayed from the excellent Hock directions here...I used a caul that would touch the wood as well as the brass plate. I felt like it made for a good clamping surface.

I was hoping that I was not overlooking something...and hoping that I would not regret my decision later.

Applying consistent clamping pressure but not overly tight.

After the unit was clamped up I realised the immediate error of the wider caul. I was not able to reach into the depths of the ware area to effectively clean out the epoxy glue squeeze out with denatured alcohol.

This made for more work later.

I should have followed instructions to the letter.

View of the sandwich from the front.

After letting the glue-up sit overnight, I unclamped the unit.

I used the same 220 grit sandpaper setup on the cast iron table and sanded the wood and brass wear strip on the bottom of the blank.

It was difficult to imagine the shape that I wanted.

I had no experience using a wooden low angle spokeshave...or any spokeshave for that matter...so I looked at a bunch of wooden spokeshave on the Internet and found some styles that I liked.

I decided that I would not do anything exotic and I would more or less leave it large...I could always remove more wood later.

I made some scale drawings.

Before working the wooden handles, I trimmed the front edge so that the wood and the brass plate were co-planar.

Here is the sawn front edge.

I cut out my drawings and used them as templates to mark out the areas to remove from the top and front faces.

I then cut them on the bandsaw.

Here is the sawn blank, ready for rounding and shaping.

I predominately used Auriou rasps to create surface shapes that felt good to me.

Once it felt usable, I installed the blade to give it a try.

I began without sharpening the blade...

and with no real knowledge about fine tuning or adjusting the spokeshave...

the first run was a little hit and miss but I ended up with a pretty decent shaving.

The Hock blade came in great shape. The finishing touches were a polish on the back of the blade (4k and 8k stones), a small bevel using the Charlesworth Ruler Trick (CRT), and a micro bevel (12000 Naniwa Superstone) of a couple of degrees. Because of the width of the blade I had to work the stone on the bias.

I worked the wood some with sandpaper, small planes, and cards. Some of the machine marks were difficult to remove if they were near the brass plate.

If I had it to do over, I would work the wood first, then add the plate and work the metal with files to make the edge co-planar.

After smoothing out the wood, I put on a coat of finish oil.

For a temporary working finish I rubbed on a coat of Tru-Oil gun stock oil with a little 0000 steel wool work.