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"After we were well frozen we went to eat oysters, with Sillery, to warm ourselves again, and after that we went from one casino to another, not intending to commit any debauchery, but for want of something better to do."

In the field of playing the field, Giacomo Casanova (1725-1798) was a giant who gave his name to generations of pygmies - guys who couldn't who couldn't pretend to attain the lofty standard he set for both quality and quantity. For The Original, the highly intelligent, well-educated offspring of an Italian actor and actress, no effort, ingenuity, or gold was to be spared in pursuit of a date - or "asssignation" as it was then styled.

Casanovas aren't what they used to be. Such is the conclusion I've arrived at as I near the end of volume 2 (of 12!) of the work, one of the authentic literary monuments of the eighteenth century and a real trove of detail about the pursuits, politics, clothing, domestic arrangements, and, of course, gender relations of the Europeans who lived it. Food and wine figure prominently here either as accompaniments to seduction or the actual instruments thereof. Remind me to tell you the one about Emilie, Armelline, and the one hundred Venice oysters.

With the aid of an electronic version of the memoirs (courtesy of Project Gutenberg) I was able to note each instance of wine mentioned in its 2679 pages.

Other varieties cited still exist, but are scarcely the stylish sips they used to be. Among these: Madeira, Malmsey, Cyprus (assume this is the sweet, luxury wine known as Commandaria), Sillery (a kind of Champagne, perhaps still rather than sparkling), Ratafia (a wine-based cordial), and Canary (Canary Islands wine now in process of making a comeback), Samos and Cephalonia (from islands in the Aegean and Ionian seas, respectively).

Still other wines seem consigned to oblivion. Who today knows what Cerigo, Scopolo, or generoydes were or tasted like?

Gem-quality anecdotes and quotes are thick on the ground here, and even the occasional remarkably sound admonition. For example, who today, beset by claims of winemakers that their wines are pure, natural, organic, biodynamic, more pristine than Adam and Eve before the Fall, could fail to be tickled by this indignant outburst:

You stupid fellow," I exclaimed, "how can you ever be certain of the purity of wine unless you have made it yourself?"

About By the Glass

Ellen Bhang writes about food and wine and reviews Cheap Eats restaurants for the Globe. Wine is the focus of her degree in the Gastronomy master's program at Boston University. She can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.