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Lasagna, when done right, is incredibly rewarding. Heck, even a middling version is pretty good. This soup embodies the rich, deep flavor of a good meat sauce and cheesy, layered filling—only in soup form.

Take time to cook the short ribs slowly. The melting collagen will give the soup depth, and low, slow heat encourages more tender results. Don't treat the noodles the same way though—they should be firm and al dente for textural contrast.

Feel free to make this soup ahead; the flavors will only improve. Just hold off on adding the ricotta topping until you're ready to serve.

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Jennifer Olvera is the author of Food Lovers' Guide to Chicago, and she has all-but tested and developed recipes since toddlehood. She writes the Sunday Supper column for Serious Eats and regularly contributes food features to Chicago Sun-Times. She can often be found tending her garden, canning and traveling to far-flung destinations, where she writes about local edibles for pubs like Los Angeles Times and Frommers.com.

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