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I do not believe the air volume is changeable on these in heat mode , yes u can in cool mode , but not so much in heat mode , I suspect the reason 4 this is due to specific needs of air volume nessacary for proper heater action

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Could be the Air Flow Sensor - that controls the amount of air going to the engine - the flap that the sensor controls is holding back the air I think.... thats why it runs good cold as a cold engine needs less air and more fuel but as car heats up it needs more air- it seems to be starving for air....???

I do not believe the air volume is changeable on these in heat mode , yes u can in cool mode , but not so much in heat mode , I suspect the reason 4 this is due to specific needs of air volume nessacary for proper heater action

check to make sure the blend door is changing from cold to hot. With the engine off and the key in the run position set the blower motor to the highest speed. Turn the temp dial to full cold and wait 30 seconds. Now turn the temp dial to full hot a listen carefully. You should hear a difference in sounds as the blend door sweeps through its full range.

If it is working and the engine is fully warmed up feel the heater hoses where the pass through the fire wall. One should be very hot and the other should be pretty warm. If one is hot and one is significantly cooler than either the heater core is plugged or there is air in the heater core causing a block in flow.

First, your engine has fuel injection and has no choke. In a carbureted car, the reason there is a choke is to restrict air flow in order to change the mixture of air and fuel entering the engine. Since fuel flow cannot be easily altered you just limit the amount of air going in, resulting in a rich mixture.In an injected engine, air flow remains the same and additional fuel is added by keeping the injectors open longer.The computer gets information from several sensors in order to know when the engine is cold or hot, or, to know what the outside air temp is. The sensors that are primarily responsible for that are the coolant temp sender and the intake manifold air temp sender. However, the coolant temp sender cannot work properly unless you have the correct thermostat installed (195 degree (f)) But, generally that helps more in making it run correctly after it's warm.Therefore, check or replace the coolant temp sender and the intake manifold air temp sender.Testing can be done using a digital multi meter following instructions found in either chiltons or haynes manuals, Also make sure spark plugs, ignition wires and the cap, rotor, and coil (if you have them) are in good condition as when cold, any moisture or condensation on ignition parts can cuase spark bleed off and make the engine run poorly as well.

Seems like very little volume of water is reaching the heater core in the dashboard. Check the hoses that run from the cooling system into the firewall. One of these hoses might be bent or creased in a position that it impairs the normal flow of hot water into the dashboard.

It is probably the problem. To make shure that need to change the gaskets, one of the symptoms use to be thet the temp rises when you are running at speed 50+ average, where is supposed that the car gets a lot of air due by the speed and nobody thinks that will be overheated.

You might want to check the MAF sensor(Mass Air Flow) and clean it with MAF/MAP cleaner. I am also kind of puzzled with this problem as I have a 2004 Corolla also, I only had power loss when my MAF went bad.