I currently have an EF Falcon with Advance headers, hi flo cat, 2.5" mild-steel Redback system and K&N with airbox mods. it is an auto and the auto is slipping.
I want to chase every kW i can get out of this engine, but on an extreme budget. The plan is as follows:
T5 conversion ( Where do these gearboxes regularly turn up?)
-RIP shifter
Purchasing second hand head, taking it to a head shop to get maximum port/polish, shave; aggresive regrind with shims, stronger springs and vernier gear ( Will the lumpy cam be offset at low revs by other mods?)
( Is it worth getting a new cam over a regrind?)
Fuel pressure regulator, bigger injectors, AU headbolts, gasket, CAPA flash tune
(Would it be worth replacing the Advance headers with Pacemakers?)
2.97 diff with LSD( what is the stock EF Auto diff ratio? what vehicles does the 2.97 or similar come in?)
and other assorted brake, suspension and audio upgrades.
(Is it worth goign to JMM, or can such power be extracted more cheaply?)
Can somebody please answer the questions in the brackets *() and also, will this be enough to get me in the 13's? Thanks.

T5 from wreckers
It is going to be lumpy.
If you are getting a big cam, get a new billet ground
Get the pacemakers
Stock ef auto ratio is 3.08 - why would you want a 2.9? Get an old EA or XF diff if you really want that ratio but dont drive it hard
If you are prepared to do lots of research you can do it youself, otherwise pay the $ and get someone like JMM to make the decisions for you
13's are possible

BHP / Kw's, cost money, you want 13's????, Money!!!!!!!
Heaps of power with fuel economy, hahahahahahahaaaa. Don't think so, how do you think your getting your power???? Heaps of fuel. You have much to learn, Grasshopper.

your better of dropping a 4.11 diff ratio in if you wanna go for quick passes, with a 2.97 passes will be measured in minutes not seconds, for serious head work/package there are plenty of guys who can offer this, but big head work is big $4 again.

The mock car that did a 13.3(?) pretty much ran almost completly stripped, when you get to those soft of times in a falcon, you need to make a decision daily driver OR track car. the 2 will not meet. a seriously quick pass car will not idle, it will be like an angry pig that can't get laid.

In N/A orm anyways..

for simialr $$ whack a snail on the engine better go for less in the long run.

Either get economy and no power or power and no economy...can't have both.

I'll just agree with everyone on what they have said.

BTW there is a way to have power with a good fuel economy...but yeah the part I am talking about is not being produced. It is a humble plasma spark plug being able to burn 99-100% of the fuel going in. I posted it a while back.

OK well plan revised; I dont mind a reasonably lumpy idle, and I guess 13's arent a priority. In the Jim Mock article, it states that it could use a taller diff ratio, and on the site it says DEV5 has exceptional fuel economy, despite its obviously lumpy cam. Would it be worth buying a used EF head, and porting it myself using a Dremel?
Budget = no more than a DEV5 kit and I am after the same effect/ output for possibly a lesser budget.

My advice, get an EF/EL head, fit 41mm exhaust valves, 3-angle valve job, and a general 'clean up' of the throat, bowl and ports. Dont worry about enlarging the ports beyond gasket matching. Get a largish cam that will get you in the ballpark power range, Wade 1521a, Crow 2543, JMM Dev 4/5, or something from surecam (they have some very nice profiles) sounds like what you are after. Your redback is probably ok, but I would swap the advance over for some pacemaker 4480's. Get some Bosch 775 injectors, an xr6 fuel reg, and an edit/chiptorque/unichip/after market ecu. Get a 5 speed in with a good clutch (extreme clutches are the best by far IMO), get some diff gears around the 3.45 to 3.7.

hey, i got 165rwkw out of my el with only exhaust, extractors, intake, crow cam and a e series eliminator capa edit, having the head ported etc is way expensive, to get it done properly you are looking at 1-2k 165 with a t5 and standard lsd will put you in the 13's
the cam will be horrible unless you get a piggy back or edit, i had my cam in which is 3k-6k float 6.5k and it would lump really slowly like abnormally withouth the edit, generally with a light - mild cam the ecu will automatically smoothen out most of the lump.
anywayz, t5 i had done in adelaide at heinrich performance cost 2500 with xtra hvy duty 5 puk ceramic clutch, i have a rip shifter which heinrich puts in his ford 6 race cars, they are awesome it was 400 ish,
doing the head is costly and not worth the 10kw ish you will gain, the crow cam i have works excellent with the t5, bigger injectors are un neccesary because the wall of power with the single cam 6 is 180rwkw ish give or
take a 1 or 2 kw unless you force induct, the edit is the best thing i had because it made everything work basically, it gave me 15 - 18rwkw through the whole rev range and definately changed the way the car responds, all the things i know i have been told by bruce heinrich who is the 3 times saloon car champ (ford 6cyl), is also my car club mechanic.

also my car idles quite nicely and is still a nice car to drive, the only thing that lets it down is the clutch is a &%^$ to drive in mid - hvy traffic

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