Years ago, my wifes late aunt lived on Marthas Vineyard and every summer wed feast on fresh boiled lobster. I also remember going to Edgartown for lobster rolls at the Wharf Pub Restaurant in Edgartown, where I would regale everyone with my Teddy Kennedy impression.

I cant even remember the last time Ive had real Maine lobster, not counting the $4 frozen mystery tails at Meijers. I can tell you the last time that my family sang the Dead Lobster song in four part harmony, on a trip back from Massachusetts a long time ago. If you dont know that song, it goes like this: one person repeats the phrase

The lobster is dead, over and over. Another repeats the word lobster, and a third repeats the word dead. Over this tight rhythm section, the lead singer croons a heartfelt DEAAAAAAD is the lobster! in sort of a free form riff.

Maybe you had to be there, in that non-air-conditioned Dodge Omni on a broiling hot summers day, to have fully appreciated our musical genius. On to the recipes.

Concerning lobster rolls, there is one constant. They must be served on a buttered, grilled hot dog bun. Preferably a good one, like a brioche roll from a hoity-toity bakery, but Aunt Millie will do in a pinch.

After that, there are two schools of thought that diverge like Robert Frosts two roads in the New England woods. One is pretty much the naked lobster on that grilled hot dog bun, perhaps in a little melted butter or just a dab of mayo. The other school of thought, more innovative to some but heresy to others, is to gussy up that puppy with herbs, spices, lemon, celery, and onion. One recipe, in of all places askmen.com, called the one with lots of extras as having Devils spittle.

If it were me, Id simply toss that fresh lobster with a lemon-dill-mayonnaise and some finely diced celery. But then I saw this version in the July Food and Wine magazine that put potato chips right on the sandwich. And I thought Whoa potato chips.

So I will take the road less traveled. I will choose the lobster roll recipe that puts potato chips right on the sandwich. And I sing to you, Dead is the lobster with Devils spittle.

2. Bring a very large pot of water to a boil and fill a large bowl with ice water. Add the lobsters to the boiling water, head first. Cover and cook until theyre bright red, about 8 minutes. Transfer the lobsters to the ice water to stop the cooking. Drain the lobsters.

3. Twist off the lobster claws, knuckles and tails. Crack the claws and knuckles and remove the meat. Using kitchen scissors, cut along the underside of the tail shells and remove the meat. Discard the dark intestinal vein running lengthwise down each tail. Chop the lobster meat into 1/2-inch pieces and fold them into the dressing. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.

4. Meanwhile, melt the butter on a large griddle or in a large skillet. Add the closed buns and toast the outsides over high heat, turning frequently, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer the buns to a platter, split the tops and fill with the lobster salad. Tuck the potato chips into the rolls, garnish with chives and serve.

Add the eggs, mustard, lemon, salt, and cayenne to a food processor. Process for 30 seconds. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil slowly at first, then add in a thin, steady stream until all the oil is added and the mixture is smooth. Stop the motor and taste. Keeps for up to a week.

** Note: personally I think Tabasco is the Devils spittle, so I would substitute Franks.And so you have your perfect summers lunch. Add a crisp, dry white wine or ros, and maybe a snappy cole slaw, and its even more perfect. Oh, wait, maybe some pie. Shoot, I keep adding things.

Nick Roumel is a principal with Nacht, Roumel, Salvatore, Blanchard, and Walker PC, a litigation firm in Ann Arbor specializing in employment litigation. He also has many years of varied restaurant and catering experience, has taught Greek cooking classes, and writes a food/restaurant column for Current magazine in Ann Arbor.