Dining: Terrapin's Beer Dinner is one-of-a-kind

Dec. 12, 2012

Written by

Theresa J. Marquez

Poughkeepsie Journal

The Saranac High-Peak series Chocolate-Orange Porter is from the Saranac Brewery in Utica. The Tröegs Mad Elf Christmas Ale is from the Tröegs Brewing Company in Hershey, Pa. / Spencer Ainsley/Poughkeepsie Journal

Jingle bells, menorah candles and special holiday meals may describe some of the traditions in your home this time of year. Here is another suggestion to add to your list of “events to anticipate”: Terrapin Restaurant in Rhinebeck is preparing for the holidays with its fifth annual Holiday Beer Dinner.

There is a choice of three nights to attend this celebration of food and beer: Wednesday, Thursday and Dec. 21.

Elizabeth Pagano, proprietress of The Grand Dutchess in Red Hook, makes attending the annual dinner a tradition. She booked her reservations as soon as the event was announced to make sure she did not miss it. This will be her fifth year attending.

“The best thing about going to Terrapin’s Beer Dinners is that chef JoshKroner’s menu is completely new and different, crafted especially to complement the beers, and is not available at any other time of the year,” Pagano said.

“The items are also unique to Terrapin and are foods which are not found on the menu of other restaurants in the area. So the poutine and the knockwurst, which were on last year’s Christmas Beer Dinner menu, have not been available since.”

This year’s menu is unique to the restaurant as well.

The first of four courses starts with Welsh Rarebit — toasted bread topped with a savory cheese sauce. It’s paired with Brooklyn Sorachi Ace. Next is a choice of either Confit of Pear Salad or Pheasant Soup, each paired with Schlafy Biére de Garde and the Kelso Winter Lager.

Entree choices are either a Peppercorn-Crusted Venison Steak or Vegetarian Seitan Schnitzel. During the entree course, Three Heads Loopy Oatmeal Red Ale, Tröegs Mad Elf Christmas Ale and Chocolate-Orange Porter, from Saranac’s High Peak series, will be tasted.

To wrap up the meal, Spiced Gingerbread & Walnut Lebkuchen will be paired with Brooklyn’s Black Chocolate Stout.

I wondered how designing such a menu might be approached. Should the food be selected first then troll for beer that might work with each? Or was it the other way around?

“As a general rule, we source the beer first for beer dinners,” Kroner, owner of Terrapin Restaurant, said in an email. “We’re looking for unique local beers to create an interesting event.”

According to Christen Wagner, marketing manager for the restaurant, many of the beers featured are not available locally and had to be special ordered from the individual breweries.

I only had luck tracking down one of the beers after searching various beverage venues in the area. Luckily it was the Tröegs Mad Elf Christmas Ale! I felt like a kid winning a prize as I walked out of Half Time Beverage in Poughkeepsie with my package in hand.

This seasonal beverage is as individual as its name. First, the color is a rich red hue — perfect for Christmas. And just as the name implies, this drink is a bit contrary. First tasting notes were a little pungent, then a semibold yeastiness. It then finished with spicy and fruity essences. Pairing this with both the venison and the seitan will be genius.

On the nights of the events, the beer dinner menu will be available in addition to the regular menu, Wagner said.

Great beer and delicious food are a perfect recipe for a new holiday tradition.