How do you all handle lowering the mast when you are alone?I am guessing, using the rope trick through the jib cleats to hold mast up then release and then muscle down. I am going to rig a Mast Stepping System and guessing I can just reverse the cranking action and lower that way as well. Just curious.

I attach a line to the forestay, run it under the bridles or through the shackle that connects them, pull it tight, and cleat it to the mast. Same deal when raising it. I find it helpful to connect the forestay to the shackle between the bridles with a caribiner rather than a shackle. I don't use any kind of crank or anything, just muscle it up and down. Sometimes I will preset the top of the mast on a wall or a tree or something so I don't have to lift it all the way from the ground once I am up on the tramp. Biggest problem for me is managing the shrouds...I need to work out something to make sure they don't end up under the corner of the tramp. Seems like it almost always happens no matter how carefully I set up things in advance. I'm thinking maybe lightly velcoing them to the top of the tramp or something.

I use this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-TSS1 ... B0002ZPKZI to set the mast on when raising and lowering. It came with my 16. Works slick. It has a couple 90degreee brackets from hardware store added to it to keep mast on the head of the tripod. I can shoot a pic sometime.

Karl, I use a board clamped to the frame for traction when I raise my mast, the clamps/edge of the board are perfect for keeping the shrouds from getting hung up, I'm sure you could just get a pair of C clamps to hold your shrouds forward

board and clamp together:

you could use a clamp this way to keep the shroud from sliding back and catching under the tramp:

Don't make it more complicated that it is. I use a tripod to hold the mast up off the cross bar. I extend the jib halyard with about an 8' length of line. I tie one end to the bridle then raise the mast, lean into it, reach down and uncleat the jib halyard, pull it tight and recleat. I can then get down and hook the forestay. Lowering is the reverse.

Some details- I use the mast link available from Murray that automatically toggles to drop the mast into place. Only problem with that link is that it must be removed to allow the mast to rotate. To prevent the shrouds from catching on to the frame, I hook the bungee cords for the trap lines around the front corner of the front castings. This puts them under tension and keeps them clear. I then lay the shrouds inside the bungee which keeps them away from the rear corner castings.

Just don't forget to put the pin back in the mast step before lowering it. I made that mistake once, and things happen REALLY fast when you aren't expecting the bottom of the mast to shoot up in the air!

I was lucky that no one got hurt. Thankfully it hit some gear back there that saved the mast from damage.