Saturday 15 September 2012

CLEMENTS RIBEIRO
Clements Ribeiro is on fine form, galvanising its signature colour,
print and nonchalant take on chic in a collection poetically titled
Moonrise Kingdom, in homage to Wes Anderson’s film of the same name. The
label’s muse? Suzy Bishop, the film’s 12-year-old lead character, who
is very much in love with Paris and the style of Forties resistance
heroines. Striped fine knits, checked silk skirts and sweet floral
appliqué collars appeared in a charming line-up, where the silhouette
was loose and easy – think paper-bag taffeta skirts – while floral and
Hawaiian-print shirtwaisters and all- in-ones were topped with sweet
cloche hats. Sheer polka-dot pussy-bow blouses were flirty, and a
floral- print sheath dress looked like the kind of piece one would wear
all summer, from dawn to moonrise. And remember Jellies? Clements
Ribeiro reprised them as the footwear of choice in vibrant shades, and
the stripy tote bags had “take me for a walk with my lover on the Seine
(or Thames)” all over them.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND
Apparently, the Henry Holland girl has adopted a bit of an attitude this season: read stroppy, read an overload of Kurt Cobain on YouTube. Yes, she was nearly scowling. But Henry’s collection, entitled Buzz Kill, was full of vibrancy and smelt like pure teen spirit. Before a front row of Alexa, Jade, Leigh, Poppy, Pixie and the gang, Holland presented a collection bang on the money for the next festival season – in the VIP lounge, that is. Cue tie dye-print silk dungarees, embellished beanies, oversized plaid shirts and bias-cut long skirts, as well as cute denim bustier dresses and lace-hemmed slip dresses. Splodgy turquoise and pink biker jackets were perfect to throw on over them. More happy days: Fashion Forward, sponsored by eBay, is helping Holland have his first- ever pop-up shop right now. “I had to tell the girls to stop smiling,” said the quiffed Henry backstage. “I wanted attitude!” Success, he got it and his mum was terribly proud. “I made him well, didn’t I? He came in a Lego kit.” Insane good humour is in the Holland DNA.HUISHAN ZHANG
“I want to make a woman look wonderful from all 360 degrees,” says the charming Central Saint Martins- trained Huishan Zhang after his debut salon show at Somerset House. Despite Zhang being up until midnight at a dinner hosted by Vogue China’s Editor-In-Chief Angelica Cheung, Vogue.com’s Sarah Mower and Luxup at Harry’s Bar the night before, all was perfectly in order in his 21-piece collection, which fused Chinese cultural traditions with a modern feminine spirit. His forte is cocktail dresses: veils of silk organza fluttered over Swarovski crystal-embroidered sheaths in China blue with motifs of pagodas, birds and mahjong tiles sparkling through. Lace overlaid a fabulous navy duchesse satin t-shirt-style top and wrap skirt, shimmering with bugle beads, while Chinese character-print slim-cut trousers were paired with a jacket-style top. One of his pieces has even been acquired by the V&A. “I love London,” he said. “I feel the freedom and am so grateful that the fashion world has embraced me.” Big hug, Huishan!

MAARTEN VAN DER HORST
“I was not in this world in 1976,” said a jubilant Maarten van der Horst
after his Fashion East show. “I was born in 1982, but it’s the spirit
of punk I love, the make-do-and- mend DIY core, and it’s always been my
favourite music.” Tunes for van der Horst’s show by Swiss punk band
Kleenex were a great fit for his punchy collection: think slim trousers
and oversized short-sleeved shirts in a collage print of leopard and
graffiti; Cellophane silk off-shoulder mini dresses in Tesco bag stripes
and chic black sleeveless coats with cherry and white daubs over
classic sheath dresses. Van der Horst proves his mettle as a fashion
player with this third collection – his attention to detail raises his
game while the irreverent spirit of the collection is pure London. He’s
timed his collection well – next May, the theme for New York’s Met
Museum’s fashion exhibition (with Nick Knight as creative consultant) is
the New York/London punk movement of the mid 1970s. Van der Horst was
oblivious to the news. Place your orders now for outfits for the Gala
evening.