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I purchased the 1watt meter with the PC interface. It arrived today, and I must say its a nice little unit. I have compared the readings with my lasercheck, and they seem to be close, but not exact.

The main reason I bought this, is to be able to second opinion any lasers that I build and not rely on a optical sensor. The PC interface is an excelent option, and is much more impressive than my 80's calculator looking lasercheck. The thermopile seems well built enough to offer solid readings and durable, unless you start poking at it. I will also be keeping an eye out for another thermo on ebay, which would compliment this little unit nicely. The Gent who sells it (Jerry) is a helpful guy, and has answered any questions I have had without delay.

Here are a couple of pics I took while checking its calibration with one of my labby's.

*EDIT*

Its been more than 2 years since I wrote up this review. I can honestly
say im still very impressed with the functionality and reliability of this meter.

I have left it running 24/7 since buying it. Have never experianced heat issues
or any problems with the PC interface.

I still highly recomend this meter.. To those who are in need of an
LPM at a great price and has proven its worth, get your LaserBee LPM TODAY!

Okay, got the graph figured out I love this meter! I wish my lasercheck had these options. Considering I could have bought 2 of these for the price of 1 lasercheck. Heres what the graph looks like, its printable from the app it comes with. This was a screenshot, now I have to figure out how to set up the current monitor, and incorporate that into the graph.

For the price, you cant beat it, its simple and easy to use. Im setting up a laser for its default calibration, and then store it using only for this purpose. I next need to make a third comparison with another meter and make sure all is well. I cant trust my lasercheck for being dead on, so I cant determine this meters standing in accuracy. I read a post not too long ago, and other people were finding a similar difference between the LB and the LC. But that can only be the default calibration being off by a few percent. I would imagine if I calibrate this along side a known accurate meter, I can eliminate the slight difference. The readings are steady, there is no fluctuation other than a shakey hand. I am very pleased with this.
I had to make a 10ft extension cord for the serial port connection, as I was originally going to use this with my laptop, but is doesnt have this connection (assumption as usual). *Right now its linked to my desktop, but im going to try and find a way to USB this or some sort of adapter from serial to USB.

I would totally recomend this. As I said, simple, effective, easy to read the screen, and does not look like a calculator

I think I remember Jerry telling me that it is knimrod's software.[/quote]

Thats also what I heard, I should PM knimrod and see if he can find a way to add the text files title to the printout. As it stands it only says laserbee meter, it would be nice to have the build title on the top of the graph.

Wannaburn - if you want to use a CHEAPER laser to check all this out - and take your measurements, then send me the laser - I can bump it against my Coherent FieldmaxII-TO if you like. I don't think you will get much closer to a dead-on compare ! If it is convenient - just pop over a PM, we can exchange info - I'll pay return shipping to help out, you just ship to me

I MUST say, I am impressed with your initial results - looks like I can gladly eat crow, and truthfully state that it looks like he has learned from his past &quot;meters&quot; and is putting out a quality product now Oh - FYI...that was NOT hard for me to say :P I LOVE being wrong in cases like this ! Itsa win-win hands down

I like the idea, and appreciate the offer. I have some diodes from the DX 70mW labbys which I stripped for the brass. They were damaged in the extraction (facet) so the cans were removed. They seem to run well at 100mW and cost me next to nothing. I can send one of these and maybe a ps3 BR for comparisons. Of course sending without the heatsink would probably be better to save the weight. Do you have any of the DX 70 heatsinks kicking around? If so ill set the drivers to run at a high but safe current. I sold my last 803t, so the ps3 will have to suffice. I run my lm317 setups with the yellow lead from a PC power supply so this should ensure consistancy.

I like the idea, and appreciate the offer. I have some diodes from the DX 70mW labbys which I stripped for the brass. They were damaged in the extraction (facet) so the cans were removed. They seem to run well at 100mW and cost me next to nothing. I can send one of these and maybe a ps3 BR for comparisons. Of course sending without the heatsink would probably be better to save the weight. Do you have any of the DX 70 heatsinks kicking around? If so ill set the drivers to run at a high but safe current. I sold my last 803t, so the ps3 will have to suffice. I run my lm317 setups with the yellow lead from a PC power supply so this should ensure consistancy.

Better idea I'll send you one of mine that I have tested - and wait for your confirmation prior to letting you know what it tested at, sound good ? :-) It'll be battery powered - might send a small wall powered labby as well. I'm happy to do this, to get the news out there to everyone if this meter is worth what it appears to be ! Send me a PM with your address info - I'll let you know when I ship, okay ?

That sounds fine. Just curious, if these meters are off by 5-10mw or so which has been consistantly seen by others would this be easily corrected? Or do you think its something other than the default calibration / thermopile? To calibrate these is easy enough, and I would like this thing dead on. I think Jerry calibrates with a 1watt 808, but I havent wired one up yet to try. Ill pm you my address and info, just dont send me any ticking packages please

IF it is off by 5-10mw consistently, I would say there HAS to be a way to adjust it - like the zeroing potentionometer on the &quot;Kenometer&quot;.... if there is solid evidence that it is always 5mw off, then adjust the pot to bring it into &quot;norm&quot;...now, you may have to INSTALL a pot...but it should be fairly straight forward.

Oh - you gotta promise me you won't scroll through my posts to see if I have posted info regarding the lasers I will send :P That would be cheating !

I promise I wont look for those numbers : Seriously though, I wont : *

To adjust this meter you use the three buttons at the bottom and enter what the reading should be. In the manual it says to have a verified 100-600mW source and go from there. So there may be a super easy solution *to the problem at hand (IF ANY). I have noticed a 10mW difference on this form the LC @658nm and 23mW difference @ 405nm. But I cant trust *the LC, and even more so at 405.

You threw a wrench in the works by being located in Canada !!! We can work through this, but I will not send expensive lasers through the customs folks there - have had too many horrid experiences - dunno if it was on my side of the fence, or yours - but I try to stay away from that fence period as a result.