Long, long ago, Manhattan was an oyster town, and when the oysters disappeared, New Yorkers commenced gobbling great amounts of beefsteak. In the last decade or so, however, the city has been gripped by a new culinary obsession. Here, ten reasons why New York is the new pig capital of the USA.

1. Braised pork belly at Daniel: When it’s on the menu and the storied French chef is on his game, there’s no greater pig dish in town.

2. Suckling pig at Eleven Madison Park: The new chef, Daniel Humm, cooks his porker in its own fat, and condenses it, crackly skin and all, into the pig lover’s savory equivalent of a candy bar.

3. Pork scrapple at Telepan: Bill Telepan serves this Pennsylvania Dutch country delicacy in the proper farmhouse style, with a single delicately poached egg.

4. Suckling pig at Boqueria: The city’s nearest equivalent to the great Iberian specialty, served as an occasional special, with glazed figs.

5. Roast-pork bun at Momofuku Noodle Bar: chef David Chang’s modern ode to the classic Cantonese dish, served with scallions in a steamy Chinese bun.