When I first signed up for the motorcycle shore excursion ($268 driver; $142 passenger) I had two thoughts: Man, that's a cool excursion for a cruise line to offer. And, boy I hope I get a hunky, leather-clad stud to cling to.

Guide Don Harford from Panhandle Motorcycle Adventures was indeed leather-clad - and a charming, 60-year-old grandfather. But if you're going to cling to someone at 55 mph on a Harley on the Tongass Highway, he's your man.

And cling I did, as we rode with a small group of fellow cruise passengers literally to the end of the road in Ketchikan, a fishing town (turned active cruise port) surrounded by water and forest.

The others were all experienced riders (and their experienced passengers) and were excited to add Alaska to the list of places they've ridden. We paused on our ride to enjoy views including scenic islands, bald eagles, the Tongass National Forest and American Indian totem poles. But the fast patches of highway - only about 17 miles in total - were, of course, the most fun.

I similarly skipped more sedate sights for adventure during our port call in Alaska's capital of Juneau, heading into the wild for a day of fly fishing ($399 per person). It was me and six fishermen and we all put on rubber waders before climbing onto one of two small floatplanes.

After our smooth water landing, our guides, Zack and Jesse, let us know this was a place that has a larger population of brown bears - also known as grizzlies - than any place on Earth. They told us this as Zack loaded lead into a rifle, "just in case." We got a lesson on what to do if a bear appears, which included forming a tight group so the bear would think we're some sort of giant creature. "Never, never run," Jesse said, "the bear can run faster."

That warning aside we were anxious to fish. Those of us who needed a refresher course practiced our casting. The more experienced anglers tied on their flies and got to it. And it was only a few minutes before someone nabbed a couple-pound Dolly Varden (similar to an Arctic char). We were doing catch-and-release, as required by our one-day fishing licenses. Hours passed as we wandered upstream, carefully watching the incoming tide - I moved on whenever the cold water started to numb my thighs (the air temperature was warmer). I couldn't help keeping an eye on the nearby forest, just in case a bear should appear. None did. A lot of fish were caught but not by me. Still, I wouldn't have missed a minute of this day.

As I embraced the wild, my pal accompanying me on the cruise went off on another adventure shore excursion ($527 per person) that combined riding in a helicopter and landing on glaciers with a visit to a dogsled camp where teams of dogs led passengers and their guides on sled rides. He came back equally raving about his experience.

Alaska provides that kind of opportunity to try things you'd never do at home.

But even if you stay shipboard, you will quickly get the idea that this is one special place.

We spotted orca whales from our cabin balcony as soon as we hit the Inside Passage water, and later there were several sightings of whale spouts and dolphins.

With Alaska's glorious glaciers a big attraction, the Oosterdam spent a day cruising near Hubbard Glacier, where ice chunks, some the size of houses, floated in Yakutat Bay like so many ice cubes in an ice bowl, while the 76-mile tidewater glacier stretched before us in all its glory. It's a scene you will only find in Alaska.

Holland America operates eight ships in Alaska, May to September, on various itineraries. Cruises can be combined with land tours. One-week Alaska Explorer cruises are roundtrip from Seattle. Fares are from about $850. Some 250 shore excursions are available. For reservations, call your travel agent or visit www.hollandamerica.com.

Oosterdam Oasis

Of course, for some, a cruise is all about relaxing, and there are plenty of opportunities to do that on the Oosterdam. The ultimate spot is the Greenhouse Spa, where guests pay $40 a day ($150 for the week), to sooth in the jets of the large hydrotherapy pool and at the thermal suite with sauna, steam and heated, ocean-view mosaic beds (a great place to linger). Spa treatments are also available.

The ship's comfortable cabins provide a nice place to retreat as well - our deluxe cabin had a balcony and a bathtub, a cruise ship luxury. All the ship's cabins have niceties like chocolates on the pillow at night and fluffy bathrobes to keep you warm.

Those who want to get active shipboard can choose from such offerings as cooking demonstrations (free) and classes ($29) offered as part of Holland America's Culinary Arts Program in conjunction with Food & Wine magazine. There are also all the standard cruise ship activities - bingo, beauty seminars, wine tastings, contests and lessons in things like line dancing and towel folding. In the Oosterdam's casino you can learn to play Texas Hold 'Em, or pay $10 and work off calories in a Pilates class in the fitness center. Kids and teens are kept active in the Club HAL program - though this line gets mostly older adults, family reunions are popular.

At night, song-and-dance productions, performances by a magician and a comedian and a truly endearing show put on by the Indonesian crew members keep passengers well entertained.

There is, of course, a surplus of eating opportunities aboard the Oosterdam - including a midnight Chocolate Buffet one night. A culinary treat is the prime steak and seafood at The Pinnacle Grill ($20 for dinner, $10 for lunch).