Inorganic UV filters must be distributed evenly to ensure sun protection. Further, they can present challenges of a pasty consistency and undesirable opacity when applied to skin. This paper therefore describes strategies using micronized titanium dioxide with different coatings to optimize its dispersion and protective benefits while improving processing and aesthetics.

Apr 8, 2014

During in-cosmetics in Hamburg, Symrise launched SymTio S, a cetearyl nonanoate-coated titanium dioxide for sunscreens, to improve the feel of sun care formulas and reduce the potential for white film forming on the skin.

This article discusses formulating strategies to achieve high-SPF sunscreen formulations that are cosmetically elegant and also cost-effective. By carefully choosing actives that complement one another in terms of spectral coverage, and physical and chemical properties, synergistic combinations of relatively inexpensive UV filters can be identified to deliver effective and elegant formulations.

Mar 20, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, ISPE, Milan, Italy

Water-resistance is a key parameter for today’s sunscreens, and there are a number of formulation strategies that can be used alone or in combination to achieve this effect, including: anhydrous formulation, w/o emulsions, film-forming polymers, dissolution of water-insoluble substances with alcohol, low levels of emulsifiers, and entrapping filters in liposomes. These are detailed here.

This article examines the ability of liposomes to improve the in vitro skin penetration of Hevea brasiliensis extract in a cream, for antioxidant benefits. Additionally, the sensory effects of the liposomes on the cream were assessed.

Sunscreen sprays have gained momentum due to their ease of application. However, while they appear clear on dry skin, they often turn cloudy and white when applied to wet skin. Here, the authors present a formulating approach based on the dielectric constant of esters and level of alcohol in formulations to produce anhydrous sprays that appear clear on wet skin.

Nov 1, 2013Rachel L. Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Jack Ferguson, PhD, believes that gaining a deeper understanding of consumer needs has propelled the industry forward, and he would know—part of his role is to think like consumers as he advises on cosmetic product claims for British television.

In September 2012, 101 sun care product users were surveyed on the beach regarding what SPF and product form(s) they were using, among other questions. While 12.2% used SPFs of 15–29, a 58% majority used SPFs of 30–50. Lotions were the favored form, followed by sprays. This article reports the detailed findings from this survey.

The article compares the performance of titanium dioxide as a UV filter in cosmetic formulations as a function of its primary particle size. It was found that with increasing primary particle size, even below 100 nm, the effectiveness of the inorganic (mineral) UV filter was clearly reduced.

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Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is becoming the UV filter of choice for many formulators due to its exceptional mildness and safety, and its inherent broad-spectrum UV protection profile. Consumers are attracted to it due to its natural appeal as a mineral UV filter.

This article reviews the mechanisms of ultraviolet radiation insult to skin and explains the formulation of sunscreens to protect against this damage. Further, since the efficacy of combinations of UV filters will vary with formulation base, the formula vehicle and form are discussed, as well as an overview given of typical sunscreen efficacy tests performed prior
to production.

In the present article, sunscreens containing the antioxidants vitamin E and diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate were tested for their efficacy in preventing UV-induced reactive oxygen species in the lower stratum corneum. The addition of the antioxidants was found to significantly improve the ability of low to high SPF sunscreens to attenuate ROS formation in UV-exposed skin.

Apr 1, 2010Ni'Kita Wilson, Cosmetech Labs

This is a liquid crystal emulsion based on C14-22 alcohols and C12-20 alkyl glucoside. Glyceryl stearate is used to reinforce the lamellar network. Beeswax, which should only be listed once, is used as a natural oil phase thickener.

Feb 1, 2010Nai-Fang Chang and Chang-Chin Kwan, Providence University

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is an effective sunscreen agent but its rutile form may produce hydroxyl radicals upon exposure to sunlight. Thus, the authors use salicylic acid as a capture agent to examine the development of free radicals in solutions or creams containing TiO2. They also explain how the choice of emulsion may reduce free radical generation.

Feb 1, 2010Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

The sun care industry faces several challenges, including testing and measuring SPF, questions over the safety of nanotechnology, sunscreen stability, broad-spectrum protection, and inconsistent regulations for allowed UV filters and their combinations. Some of these challenges have plagued product developers for years, thus the industry has had time to develop the means to meet some of them. Recent work in these areas is the primary focus of this issue of C&T magazine.

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) is well-known as an effective UVA filter when it is stabilized. Here, the authors measure the efficiency of ten commercially available products that are reported to stabilize BMDBM. The most effective product found was octocrylene that, being a UVB filter, also contributed to the SPF.

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