I've got a question on chain length. I'm running stock gearing on my K6,I think its 17/ 42 110 links IIRC. I like the stock gearing and would like a longer chain to move the tire back . How many more links are recommended ? I would be buying an entirely new chain.
Thanks

I also wonder why you want to move the tire back but each link outer/inner pair will move it back by 5/8" (till you reach the limit of the adjustment slot). You'll probably only be able to go to 112 links.

Thanks for the replies
I'd like to move it back to help prevent slight wobble/ head shake in 2nd on the power. I've converted this bike into a Naked streetfighter with Pro taper bars. Even while leaned forward ( I'm 6'3") It will still shake a little bit when its cold out. I chose this bike based on it making power everywhere. It definitely performs!
As far as further adjustment goes,I'm ok with purchasing a chain every few years if need be. Its only used for nice days and is not my DD.

I've got a question on chain length. I'm running stock gearing on my K6,I think its 17/ 42 110 links IIRC. I like the stock gearing and would like a longer chain to move the tire back . How many more links are recommended ? I would be buying an entirely new chain.
Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by njyork42

Why would you want to move the tire back?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sidethumper

What he said. You move it back then your screwed for adjusting later

Because the K5/K6 have a somewhat shorter swingarm.....at least so much as how much flexibility you have to adjust the wheelbase with.

The sweet spot for most modern day sportbikes is to have a measurement of about 23 inches from the swingarm pivot bolt to the rear axle, this allows for better mid-corner stability. In order to achieve this length on the K5/K6 you basically have to have the rear axle all the way back in the adjusters.

The kit Yoshimura swingarms for the K5/K6 are actually longer than stock

If you look back at pictures of Superstock racebikes you'll notice they are more often than not running the axle quite far back in the adjusters to achieve the proper length in the swingarm. Of course it depends on the type of riding you are doing but as with all things, different bikes have different idiosyncracies about their chassis'

__________________
"I never drive faster than I can see...besides that it's all in the reflexes."-Jack Burton

That is very good information,however this bike will never see the race track. It was built purely for street use.
As far as a Damper goes,I've got a Scotts . The stock one was deleted to make room for the headlight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPL170db

Because the K5/K6 have a somewhat shorter swingarm.....at least so much as how much flexibility you have to adjust the wheelbase with.

The sweet spot for most modern day sportbikes is to have a measurement of about 23 inches from the swingarm pivot bolt to the rear axle, this allows for better mid-corner stability. In order to achieve this length on the K5/K6 you basically have to have the rear axle all the way back in the adjusters.

The kit Yoshimura swingarms for the K5/K6 are actually longer than stock

If you look back at pictures of Superstock racebikes you'll notice they are more often than not running the axle quite far back in the adjusters to achieve the proper length in the swingarm. Of course it depends on the type of riding you are doing but as with all things, different bikes have different idiosyncracies about their chassis'

Because the K5/K6 have a somewhat shorter swingarm.....at least so much as how much flexibility you have to adjust the wheelbase with.

The sweet spot for most modern day sportbikes is to have a measurement of about 23 inches from the swingarm pivot bolt to the rear axle, this allows for better mid-corner stability. In order to achieve this length on the K5/K6 you basically have to have the rear axle all the way back in the adjusters.

The kit Yoshimura swingarms for the K5/K6 are actually longer than stock

If you look back at pictures of Superstock racebikes you'll notice they are more often than not running the axle quite far back in the adjusters to achieve the proper length in the swingarm. Of course it depends on the type of riding you are doing but as with all things, different bikes have different idiosyncracies about their chassis'

A decent formula for the center-to-center distance between the sprockets is
D=(NL-(T1+T1)/2)*0.3125 where NL is the number of links in the chain and T1 &T2 are the number of teeth in the sprockets. It ignores things like chain stretch and droop. Thus the OEM chain is 25.16" and a 112 link chain is 25.78". You can finesse things a bit by going to a different sprocket set with the same overall ratio. For example, an 18/44 sprocket set has nearly the same ratio and with 114 links gives a length of 25.94". This allows you to move the axle back in finer steps to get closer to the back of the slot. I'm guessing the distance from the front sprocket centerline to the swingarm pivot is about 4" so even that gives a pivot to rear axle distance that is less than SPL's 23" value.

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