Is it oil or transmission fluid coming off the transmission? If you can get underneath it, clean off the underside as best you can (late night with a jack at a self serve car wash) then you'll be able to track the leak better. Place a piece of cardboard (white if possible) under the car after parking it. Red fluid will be from transmission, oil will be brown. If it is oil and you're lucky, it may only be the pan gasket; other likely source would be the rear main seal (requires removal of the tranny to replace it).

Get yourself a Honda service manual and it will have all the info to do the repairs yourself; just take your time and double check your work as you go. You can do it!

It scares me to do the work alone but I know I have the confidence to accomplish it. I have to get it inspected by 01/2017. I can take it in 2-3 months prior. I know I have to reregister my car with PA first before I get it inspected. I just paid down my credit card so I think I will knock that out tonight and have the inspection shop inform me of the potential issue.

They know I do most of the work myself if I can and have the space available to do it.

Would the rear main seal and distributor seals leak while the car is parked? I seem to lose more oil while it sits all week than I do when I drive it on the weekends or for class on weds.

Thanks for all the help. I need to get some current pictures up. Since I moved I haven't located my digital camera. I guess I could use my iphone 4s? Rather old and outdated though.

The distributor seal will leak with the engine off - it blocks off the end of a trough in the head that retains oil on the bottom portion of the cam. I'm not sure if the oil level in the pan is high enough to reach the rear main when the engine is off. If you have a lot of oil on the head and the transmission housing just below/behind the distributor, then it is likely that seal - rear main leakage will not show up on top of the trans. Note that there is a seal between the distributor housing and the head and one internal to the distributor. The external one is fairly easy to replace: make an alignment mark from one of the distributor mounting lugs to the head; disconnect the distributor connector(s), remove the three mounting bolts, remove the distributor, remove the seal on the end of the housing, install a new seal, lubricate the seal a little, install the distributor, line up your marks, install the bolts and tighten, reinstall wires and connectors. Removing the wires from the plugs and coil will probably help to free the distributor. Timing should be pretty close, but you can use a timing light to tweak it if necessary.

The only distributor I opened up to replace the internal seal wound up having all sorts of cracking of the insulation on the wires, so I replaced the entire distributor.

Thanks for the kinds words fleetwood. Sorry for the long delay in response.
I was battling alcohol and marijuana addiction and I am clean from both. It has only been two weeks without pot but I smoked everyday, twice a day, since I was 16 only quitting for a few weeks twice. Now I am 26. I haven't touched alcohol since Easter of this year.

Now I don't worry about getting high or intoxicated and I am actually loving the CB7 again.
I think I may end up just taking the car into Honda.

If it was the rear main seal I am assuming my engine would have been garbage by now?

I am going out to buy some purple power or simple green to try and degrease the engine bay as much as possible.

I also graduated in May from West Chester with a degree in business management (if anyone is hiring :P)

I hope to be more active on here as well now I am not worried about my next high.

Congrats on the sobriety and the graduation! Good luck with the job hunt as well.

Just because a main seal is leaking doesn't necessarily mean the engine is bad. The seals around the rotating parts (crank, cams, distributor, etc.) have the highest likeliness to go out. Most leaks occur during engine operation, when oil is pressurized through the system. The only way to gauge the severity would be to check your engine oil cold before a drive and then again after it has cooled (both times when the oil is settled back into the pan). Most leaks you find after parking are subsequent to having driven the car. If there was a leak while sitting off, that could only come from areas where oil collects like the pan of the distributor seal (as fleetw00d mentioned).

Hopefully you get it sorted. Just keep an eye on the oil levels until you get it repaired.

Congrats on the sobriety and the graduation! Good luck with the job hunt as well.

Just because a main seal is leaking doesn't necessarily mean the engine is bad. The seals around the rotating parts (crank, cams, distributor, etc.) have the highest likeliness to go out. Most leaks occur during engine operation, when oil is pressurized through the system. The only way to gauge the severity would be to check your engine oil cold before a drive and then again after it has cooled (both times when the oil is settled back into the pan). Most leaks you find after parking are subsequent to having driven the car. If there was a leak while sitting off, that could only come from areas where oil collects like the pan of the distributor seal (as fleetw00d mentioned).

Hopefully you get it sorted. Just keep an eye on the oil levels until you get it repaired.

The issue I am having is bogging/no acceleration with your foot on the gas pedal.

Well I drove up to north jersey to visit and meet Maury. He did all of the work while I watched and helped with small things.

Let me run down what we did so maybe you guys can help diagnose the problems that I am currently experiencing. Maybe when Maury logs on her can chime in because he did most of the work.

We dropped the transmission to replace the rear main seal. We did the axle seals as well while they were out. We also took off the distributor and replaced that seal(fell apart in his hand). We changed the spark plugs and cap and rotor as well. I also purple powered the transmission while it was off the car. We covered up the dipstick hole with a rag and I used a brush and towels to clean the caked on 20+ years of oil residue.

I changed the wires Thursday thinking they were causing this hesitation/acceleration issue since we changed the plugs the day before.

Today he came down to Drexel Hill where I live and we did the upper and lower spark plug seals, the valve cover gasket, fuel filter and he converted me to R134A. My AC is working again and it gets down to 42 degrees in the car! We also seafoamed my car. Hoping to solve the acceleration/ bogging issue.

The issue I am having and it all started Wednesday after we reassembled everything. The car takes a forever to accelerate. You put your foot down on the gas pedal and it barely goes anywhere for a few seconds.

TLDR; No CELs or flashing D4 either. Could the tranny have been on its way out and the overhaul finally killed it?
Would the torque converter cause this issue?
Could the purple power have ruined the solenoids? I think we left them on the tranny while I purple powered the outside.
Maybe Maury can explain it better. I believe his screenname is Excalibur on here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an OHM meter if I need to check the O2 sensor and solenoids on the transmission.

Well I think the torque converter is to blame. Will try and do more investigation but I think it may be time to go 5 speed swap or get another reputable transmission. Sucks because the car only has 133K on it.

Oh and I failed to mention in 2011 I bottomed out and hit a curb(I think it is documented on here). Excalibur mentioned to me there is a big hole in the bell housing under the torque converter

So i'll bet that lead to the failure over time. I failed to mention that it runs extremely rough in reverse. Like the car is going to die and shakes a lot. Also at higher speeds like 50+ the car shudders and shakes a bit. Excalibur removed all the mounts and they were all in good working order.

So again bad torque converter? and with the hole in the bellhousing under the torque converter I think it is time. I do not want to retire the CB but I am sick to my stomach over this.

I suspect a bad torque converter would allow the engine to race without the car moving much (no torque being converted!).

Did you reconnect the transmission throttle cable? Mess with its adjustment while disconnecting or reconnecting? When you put the hole in the bell housing, did you hit it hard enough to impact the torque converter as well? Is the flex plate bent?

Not doubting Excalibur's ability, maybe double check ignition timing? I had problems with one of mine because of cracked insulation on the wiring inside the distributor. Any oil inside the distributor, or just external?

I suspect a bad torque converted would allow the engine to race without the car moving much (no torque being converted!).

Did you reconnect the transmission throttle cable? Mess with its adjustment while disconnecting or reconnecting? When you put the hole in the bell housing, did you hit it hard enough to impact the torque converter as well? Is the flex plate bent?

Not doubting Excalibur's ability, maybe double check ignition timing? I had problems with one of mine because of cracked insulation on the wiring inside the distributor. Any oil inside the distributor, or just external?

Hey Fleetwood thanks for the kind reply. There was very little oil inside of the dizzy. Excalibur did not think the inner seal needed to be replaced so we left the old one in there. There was a mess under the dizzy on the starter and transmission.
He claims he reconnected the transmission cable but I plan to take it over my grand parents this afternoon and check it out.

Is it possible to recheck ignition timing without a timing light ? Is that fairly cheap? I am not sure how to do it exactly..

The torque converter was not hit in the accident it was fully intact. The black cover plate that goes over the flex plate (I think) was a little damaged at the bottom next to the hole in the bell housing. Excalibur said the flex plate and torque converter looked to be in good shape when he removed them from the car. I even looked at them. Oh and the transmission is NOT leaking fluid from the bell housing hole.

I think pictures may be needed to further diagnose this issue. I'll see what I can do today.

Also another issue we noticed the transmission would only take 5 quarts? Shouldn't there be 6.7? or 6.3? I forget I read your post a while back about the amount that should go in after a full overhaul. Would that indicate the filter is blocked by components that have failed? Maybe the internal clutches are shot after we removed the old fluid?

The transmission holds 6 quarts, but when you drain it from the drain plug you only get about 2.5. Did you actually overhaul the transmission? If you put 5 quarts in, it may be way over full.

We removed the transmission from the car. Wouldn't that be an overhaul?
We emptied the torque converter once it was off the car too.

Or is there still some tranny fluid in the tranny even after it is removed?

We were able to fill up the 5 quart jug and a small 1 quart jug(of the old fluid). Which indicated to Excalibur and I that it was empty?

The dipstick appears to right at the top level. I have been checking it every day since we did the work.

I guess I should go and drain out some fluid and see if it fixes the issue. It may be overfilled but the damage may already be done at this point.

I guess what I should ask is if we drained it from the drain bolt and removed it off the car would some fluid remain inside the tranny? I'm gonna try and drain some out and see if that resolves the issues.

An "overhaul" would be complete disassembly and reassembly of the transmission. When in the car, only about 2.5 quarts drain out. Much of the fluid remains in the torque converter. After removing it and draining the torque converter; it is feasible that you could put 5-6 quarts in.

I still have my baby. Just hit 136k the other day. The problems I was having above were because the distributor was not aligned properly which caused the car to not have power. Got it aligned and timed with a timing light.

Thanks Mike! Maury (Excalibur) currently has the suspension components at his house. He also has three bars we will be installing this summer (when he finishes parting out his SE coupe). The bars are front, rear, and in the backseat.

I'll see if i can upload pictures of them. Photobucket is trying to extort money out of me in order to host images. I may just use them unless there is an easier way to host images. I haven't done my homework on this yet.

Contemplating what company I want to handle my rusting rear quarters. I would love to go back to school to learn welding but if anyone knows anyone on the east coast that is good with welding in quarter panels; please let me know.

I would prefer to pay a member as opposed to random shop who does not have the passion for our CBs. Thanks in advance.

I know what bars you are talking about. Should make a noticeable distended for sure. Try Flickr for uploading your pictures. Works great for me.

Sounds good Mike. I presume I just download my current library from photobucket and upload it to flickr?

Then all the images should rehost that way?

Side note: I went to my local honda dealership today to grab oem power steering fluid and talked with the manager of the body shop. They WILL use any metal parts I supply to fix my rear quarter panels. Which is amazing news. That way the cost doesn’t burn a major hole in my pocket all at once. So I will be looking at all available options before I make the decision for Honda to do the repair. Almost every other body shop I have inquired with laughed at me and said “why would you want to fix that old POS....”

Sounds good Mike. I presume I just download my current library from photobucket and upload it to flickr?

Then all the images should rehost that way?

Side note: I went to my local honda dealership today to grab oem power steering fluid and talked with the manager of the body shop. They WILL use any metal parts I supply to fix my rear quarter panels. Which is amazing news. That way the cost doesn’t burn a major hole in my pocket all at once. So I will be looking at all available options before I make the decision for Honda to do the repair. Almost every other body shop I have inquired with laughed at me and said “why would you want to fix that old POS....”

Based on my experience with Ruby, you need to find a shop that takes an interest in it, regardless of what they think of your car - you're the customer. I talked to at least half a dozen shops before I found one where the owner himself told me that he'd do as little or as much as I wanted, and if I chose to do most of the work (which I did), he'd give me advice as I went. I cut one of the outer quarter skins off, then drove it to his shop and we probably talked for 30 or more minutes about how to go about rebuilding the inner wheel housing and where to cut/create joints for the whole skin.