Description

This is a classic problem. It isn't hard, but can be really enjoyable, especially for newbies or first-time sport leaders. The most interesting move is near the top, where you must switch hands to the flakey stuff on the left.

Location

Just about dead-center in the wall. Right of a 5.10 on a nose and Left of a difficult looking 5.11.

Protection

Bolts. 2-bolt Anchor at the top. Use a tree and a long sling to safely get to the top-rope bolts. Or, lead it, which is more fun.

The anchor atop Flakey Old Man was upgraded in the summer of 2009 with a third chain and some beefy hardware. For safety sake, please do not reach out for this anchor from the top without being roped up.