This topic includes tips on the care
of members of the genus, Lilium, which
includes those plants that grow from a scaly bulb. It
does not include daylilies which are members of the
genus, Hemerocallis, and grow from a crown rather than
a bulb.

There are many different types and
sizes of lilies for the home landscape. Click on the
genus name above for more information about the various
species and cultivars. Fortunately, most of these bulb
plants need the same type of care and propagate in
basically the same ways.

Among
the numerous types of lilies, the vast majority prefer a
full sun location. Many will tolerate some shade and a
few, especially the martagon lilies actually thrive in
the shade. The plant will tell you what it needs since
it will bend toward the light. This will cause the stems
to become artificially long and weak which results in
the need for more staking. Given the proper light
conditions, a lily should stand on its own.

The depth at which lily
bulbs are
planted depends on their size. A good rule of thumb is
to plant bulbs 2 to 3 times their height in depth. In
other words, if the bulb is 3 inches tall, it should be
buried at least 6 inches deep and, if the soil is sandy
or is a good, friable loam, up to 9 inches below the
surface. Another way to look at it is that the top of
the bulb should be around 4 to 6 inches beneath the
soil.

If bulbs are too shallow, they may
be impacted by winter temperatures or may be damaged by
alternating freezing and thawing known as heaving. Bulbs
that are too deep in the soil have to exert more energy
in the process of emerging each spring. This may cause a
loss of vigor or, in the extreme, may cause the loss of
the bulb entirely.

Tulips and other bulbs generally
come without any roots attached. This is not the case
with lilies which usually still have roots when they
arrive from the dealer. Generally, American produced
bulbs will have these roots and overseas sources might
not. Some people believe that the lack of roots,
although not horrible, will prevent the plant from
establishing itself as fast as those planted with viable
roots attached.

If you purchase bulbs locally and
can inspect them, be sure to buy ones that show no signs
of damage. Certainly, there should be no sign of insect
damage or rot. The bulbs should be supple and not dried
out.

Lily bulbs should be planted in
the fall as soon as you receive them in the mail or buy
them locally. This may extend right up to the point when
the soil freezes. Most of these species require exposure
to cold temperatures for a period of time or they will
not bloom. Also, it is always better to get the bulbs
into the ground rather than trying to store them in the
house.

If you get the bulbs too late or
can't get them planted for some reason, you can put them
in ziplock bag with some very lightly moistened sphagnum
peat and put them in the refrigerator. That way, when
you pull them out for planting in the spring, they will
have been properly chilled and should bloom that year.
However, this is clearly less preferable to getting them
into the ground in the fall.

Like all bulb plants, lilies need to
have a soil that gives them adequate water but must also
be well drained. Too much water in the soil will lead to
rots while too little water results in a plant of low
vigor. This can be accomplished by incorporating plenty
of organic matter into the soil and placing a thin (1-2
inch) layer of mulch over the planting.

Fertilizer - The general rule of
thumb is to avoid using high levels of
nitrogen
fertilizer on the lilies. This may cause excessive
foliage growth at the expense of flowering. It is always
best to get a
soil test
done by your local land grant
university or Extension
Service office to get a base of
information on you soil's fertility. Lilies, like most
plants, thrive in a slightly acid soil in the range of
pH
6.0 to 7.0 and do not have any special nutritional
needs. In the absence of a soil test, 2 pounds of a
5-10-5 fertilizer applied per 100 square feet of bed
should suffice. Make an application in the spring as the
new foliage pops out of the ground and again around
bloom time.

Staking - Most types of lilies
will not need to be staked. However, some of the very
tall ones that produce large flowers may need some
support. Also, if the plant is in a windy location or is
not given enough sun to fill its needs, it may need help
supporting the floweers.The easiest way is to attach a
green colored bamboo or fiber stake to the stem to give
it more strength. Be sure to tie it in at least 3 places
up the length of the stake. Using only one or two
attachments will allow the stem too much movement and
will actually add to the possibility that it will break
over.

After the blooms have fallen apart
(shattered), it is best to cut off the flower scape to
prevent seed formation. Unless you are a hybridizer,
there is no need to allow the plant to go to seed. It
can then redirect that energy down into the bulb for
next year's plant.

Allow the stem and leaves to
continue to grow until they naturally turn brown. The
leaves are the source of energy for the plant and, the
longer they are kept on the plant, the stronger it will
be in the future. Never cut the stem off while it is
still green.

Botrytis blight is a fungus
disease most common in lilies. It causes the death
of shoots shortly after they emerge from the soil.

Lily virus disease may cause
a symptom called mottling on the foliage and a
stunted growth. Once a plant is infected, there is
no cure. Discard the infected bulbs. It is spread
primarily by aphids. Certain species and cultivars
are more susceptible than others.

Basal rot occurs in soils
with poor drainage.

Aphids may be a problem
especially with their role in spreading the virus.

Lilies may be propagated a number of
ways, all of which take time to produce flowering
plants:

Division - Like other bulbs,
lilies naturally multiply by producing tiny nodules
called bulblets on the side of the original bulb. As
several smaller stems begin to appear from the
original bulbs, it may be time to dig the bulb,
separate out the bulblets and plant them in another
are to raise.

Seeds - If the flowers are
fertile and get pollinated, they will produce viable
seed. Each pod can produce several hundred seeds.
Harvest them after the pods turn brown in the fall
and the seeds do not stick together when the pod is
opened. They can be sown in the fall or kept in a
paper bag until the following spring. The seeds of
some species of lilies take only a few weeks to
germinate and grow while others may take up to a
year to show signs of life. It will then take
several years of growth before a bulb is formed and
the plant will flower.

You can let the bees do the pollinating or you can
become a hybridizer and consciously take the pollen
from one plant and put it onto the
pistil
of
another.

Bulbils - Certain species of
lilies produce small, berry-like structures called
bulbils. These are borne in the axil of the leaves
and may be quite decorative. In the fall, they may
be harvested and planted.

Scaling - A lily bulb is
composed of a number of scales clustered together.
You can peel off a scale and plant it in a tray of
vermiculite
or potting soil. The pointed end of the
scale should be up and the flat end into the media.
Keep the tray moist and, eventually, the scale will
grow roots and sprout leaves. Again, it will take
several years before you have a flowering plant but
it is an inexpensive way of getting more lilies
especially if time is not of concern for you.

Note:
Plants produce with methods 1,3 & 4 will be clones meaning that
they will be exactly the same as the original plant.
Plants produced from seeds will contain the genetic
material of two individuals and will show varying
characteristics.

Note: We
have provided some general information and
observations on this topic aimed at the home
gardener. Before you take
any serious action in your landscape, check
with your state's land grant university's
Cooperative
Extension
Service for the most current,
appropriate, localized recommendations.