IF,,, you find that the baseplate of the current carb is warped. You'll probably want to replace it.

CFM =Cubic Feet per Minute,,, Air flow capacity.

Higher altitude = less oxygen pre Cubic Foot..,, so if you operate at higher levels (as opposed to Sea Level), More air equals more power and a more complete burn. If adjusted properly.

Before you buy a rebuild kit (if you have to rebuild it), check the base plate for straight. Preferably on a piece of glass. Air leaks between the carb and intake manifold are a BAD thing.

AS to the SeaFoam. I've never used it. I use 100% acetone. (make sure you change the gas filter within 3 tanks full AND have it ready to change Immediately)

You'll have to use the SWAG method for volume. Tap the edge of the tank, you can get close. I use 8oz of acetone to 10 gallons of gas. Lots of people swear by SeaFoam, so I'm sure it's a good product. I'm just cheap, and I want it CLEAN now not later. acetone is I think about $15 a Gallon. In grocery store it's more expensive and labeled as FINGER NAIl POLISH remover, and it'll say 100% acetone on the bottle. I've bought it that way in a pinch, or when I'm too lazy to pour it into Small containers.

Caution; Acetone WILL remove your paint! Almost as well as brake fluid.

swatmo wrote:Thank you rehoppe for the advice, though I am not sure I completely understand, it sounds like you are suggesting that i might replace the carb. which i might but really I dont know know what CFM means or what the CFM of the stock is, or even if any of the componants in the vehicle are even stock.

No. Rehoppe says "IF you must replace the carburator" not that you should.
Your carb is probably stock.

swatmo wrote:Seafoam. I plan to do this today, how do i determine how much gas in the tank... the gas gauge isn't working, and we have no idea how much gas was in it when I got it. I don't know how much gas is in it, I won't know how much seafoam to add or is this not so important.

YES, this is important. Seafoam helps clean the "ook" that accumulates in a gas tank. Buy a can, read and follow the directions.

Stick a bendy thing down it and take an educated guess.
Educated guess says probably not full.
Did you put gas in it since you bought it?

Look at your fuel filters. Take them out and look. Buy new ones.
Are they dirty? Replace them, anyhow. Also put new rubber fuel lines on and clamps. Clamps get crappy and are cheap enough to qualify any cost. New rubber fuel lines are a must.

Thing is, dirt accumulates in gas tanks. Water acculumates in gas tanks.
You press on the accelerator pedal to pull gas from the tank, but are also pulling dirt.
Dirty fuel filters mean no more dirt can be stopped from going through the fuel line and into the carb (and down your valves); dirty fuel filters also mean reduced pressure, so your carb receives less gasoline.

Change the fuel filters, the rubber lines, the clamps.
Add Seafoam to the tank. Add gasoline to the tank.

swatmo wrote:Griff (or anyone) do you know where I can get pictures like that for the whole chassis. It would be a lot of help.

You have a 1-ton Dodge van.
A factory service manual for your year Dodge 1-ton van will have this.
This will cover the drivetrain, NOT the coach.

swatmo wrote:Shocks. when I drove the machine home it was very bouncy almost the whole way. Weather was windy so there was some concentration involved in keeping the thing going straight, is this what you meant by excess sway? How would i know if i had bad springs.

Class C is a top-heavy thing, heavy wind doesn't help.
You probably need frt shocks. Count on them being original. Mine were 38 years old.
Count on replacing them, a frt-end alignment, new frt tires, etc.

When the shock absorbers lose their ability to bounce, the coil springs work harder to keep the frt end stable. Until you have it on a rack (big rack) you don't know.

"Sway" is when the rr end of the vehicle swishes like a skirt going down the road.

If you have bad springs it'll sit uneven, and low at the rear. At this age it's not unlikely. Inspect for cracks in the edges of the leaves.

If the shocks are bad it will bounce when you hit a pot hole. If they are really bad, it will continue to bounce 3-4 times from one bump. You might also notice oil caked with dust on the sides of the shock housings... unless of course they are gas filled.

How many miles show on the clock? and of course does the odometer still operate?

If it started right up. Hopefully all it needs to run right is clean up of the fuel system and a carb kit.

After you've done 'due dilligence' IF it seems gutless and still not quite right check the timing and chain. I fought a 360 for too long (I timed it by ear), until I put a light on it. Straightened it out. Hopefully it'll not be needed.

swatmo wrote:Hi, I am so glad to have found this topic, and would like to thank everyone who has participated for all the useful information I have already found within.

I recently acquired a quite well used/abused/modified 1976 Dodge Tioga Class C Motorhome. At least, this is what I think I have, and I am hoping to find out more about this machine here. The carriage is only mostly present as the rear half or so of the siding had been removed to work on the frame and was never replaced. The chassis,engine, and electrical systems also show signs of heavy tinkering. The person from whom I purchased the machine knew very little as far as specifics on what has/hasn't been done to the RV.

When I went to pick up the machine, I hopped in turned the key and it started right up with minimal engine noise, but as I rolled it out of the parking lot... it died, then it would start but would die immediately after drive was engaged... then it wouldn't start at all for awhile. eventually I figured out that if jiggled the throttle for the first little bit after getting rolling it would run just fine. So I was able to make the 50 mile trip back home by carefully jiggling the throttle whenever it seemed like it was going to die.

I have some plans for this beast and would appreciate any information or help that anyone has to offer concerning how to successfully complete my dream on a limited budget.

1. First I plan to dismantle the carriage and scrap most of it, I know that some components are likely to have some resale value and I plan to sell those off to add to my budget for fixing up the RV how I want. I would love any information about what I can expect to find when I start taking this thing apart, and which pieces I should be careful to preserve. I plan to rebuild the carriage entirely out of wood and with little to no electrical, gas or otherwise powered appliances. So there is no chance of me requiring any of the current appliances.

2. Second I plan to rebuild the chassis to the point where it is reasonably reliable and able to make long distance trips. Here I would also love any information on where to start, which books i need, which engine I have even !!! any advice would be much appreciated. I am not sure if the engine that is in there now is the original one at all.

I included some pictures in this post that I hope will be helpful in determining where I should start. I originally included each of my images using IMG codes but they weren't showing up for me. So here is a link to the photobucket album containing all the images:

http://s931.photobucket.com/albums/ad151/walking75/

Thanks ahead-of-time for all the help.

Peace,
Sean

This looks like a 360 engine to me, The photo of the springs, What you can see of them looks like the springs are ok, I would say you need a good set of shocks Front and rear, The master cylinder looks new though, Good luck with the project it should be a lot of fun, You can check my rebuild and see a lot of photos of what tearing one apart looks like, This should make a great RV for what your wanting, Although I would build it back with LP gas/water/stove Fridge/Heat and AC Good luck and when you start the work then start you a page so you can add the photos, And take a lot of photos and post them, There is a lot of Us that love the Picx's, Oh Yeah Welcome the the forum.

One quick check when you have it ready for the engine to run a bit. Fire it up at night when it's dark, open the hood, and watch for 'fire flies'.

If your plug wires are bad they will arc to the nearest 'grounded' metal, showing sparks in the dark.

In the same scenario, pull the plug wires one at a time with it running, (with insulated grippers!), is the spark bright blue, or weak and yellowish? Weak indicates problems with coil or (stator? I don't think you have points). Somebody jump in if I'm wrong!

Weak spark to the plugs or bad plugs, is power loose and unburned fuel. A longer more PITA is to pull the plugs one at a time, fire it up and see how the spark as well.

Also if/when you take the distributor cap off (LEAVE THE WIRES IN PLACE ON IT), look for cracks inside and 'arc marks'. They are signs of 'misfiring', if present. Replace the cap.making sure the wires go on the new one the same way as they were on the old one. (very important)...If you Screw if up, that's a Whole NOTHER 'can o worms".

You have a used book store in town? Go there and find an aftermarket manual for PU and Van of your year. They are printed in Ranges of years. And they will tell you more explicitly than I,,, and with pics.

the mileage currently reads 49,000 ish... that being said... this thing is in

really crappy condition for something that only has 48k high dessert miles on it. So i don't know I will try a used book store, so you would recommend against purchasing that book I linked before.

I will try the spark tests soon. I will let you know... I am waiting to get all the bits together before i do anything... all the fuel carb stuff seemed best if i did it all at the same time so... I will let you know.

Learning fast about my 1978 440 Tioga.
Fixin up real detroit metal makes me happy and proud...
When my F44 Tioga was built America was boomin and we had our BOOT
On the worlds neck, a dollar was really a dollar, and a toyota corolla or datsun b210
Were the "smart cars". Ha ha not me pal...
Anyway many questions I have just wanted to say hello to all out there and look forward to the
Information and experience with commorodity... 440BM