Madison's Roman Candle pizza coming to Whitefish Bay

The Roman Candle Pizzeria, which has three restaurants in Madison, Middleton and Fitchburg, will open its first Milwaukee-area location in Whitefish Bay in autumn.

The restaurant is projected to open in late September or in October at 133 E. Silver Spring Drive, in part of what formerly was Peabody's Interiors, said owner Brewer Stouffer.

Stouffer said he had been scouting locations around Milwaukee for the past two years, looking at areas including Bay View and Wauwatosa. "Maybe I'll be able to do business in them someday," he said.

He settled on the Whitefish Bay location because of the population density, the nearby residential areas and the proximity to UWM. And, he said, "Whitefish Bay was so underserved by restaurants in general and pizza restaurants in particular."

Citing an interest in urban development, Stouffer said, "I want to be part of a classic revitalization of a classic downtown."

Roman Candle serves appetizers, salads and pastas, but it's known for its hand-tossed pizza crusts; the dough proofs for more than a day to develop the flavor, and new batches of dough are made daily. Toppings include the usual and the unusual, such as red pepper puree, walnuts, beets, corn and blue cheese.

One of its specialty pizzas, the Algo Malo, combines Alfredo sauce, beets, garlic, walnuts, caramelized onions, blue cheese and arugula. Stouffer said he prides himself on the crust but also the balance in flavors and textures on the specialty pizzas.

Roman Candle will have table service for about 80 guests inside, with more seats on a warm-weather patio, and will offer takeout and delivery as well. Plans are to serve Wisconsin craft beers, especially from the Milwaukee and Madison areas. It also will have wine and a limited cocktail menu.

About Carol Deptolla

Carol Deptolla is the Journal Sentinel dining critic. She also reports on restaurants, bars and other food- and drink-related businesses.