TIGER LILY in BRITTANY (1986)

Note: This log of Tiger Lily's first long trail
was originally published in the Swift 18 Newsletter No 19 - December 1986

It covers the South Brittany sailing areas of the River Villaine, the Morbihan and the
offshore islands of Houat and Hoedic.

Trail/Sail Log 1986

When Tiger Lily's hull was still cans of resin and before she was
even ordered we had dreamed of taking her to Brittany. We bought
her on the assumption that she would provide us with holidays
abroad. However it was Paddy and Sue's description of the June
1985 Swift expedition which inspired us, provided many useful
details and encouraged us to make the dream come true.

A week before leaving Tiger Lily sustained a bent spreader but
this was quickly put right and 1100 Sunday 3rd August she was
finally packed and ready to go. The crew gained some extra sleep
before leaving at 1630 in time to catch the 1915
Portsmouth/Cherbourg ferry.

Monday 4th August
At 0100 a French customs official waved us onward without even a
glance at the SSR, Crew competence certificate, insurance etc.
TL was on the road south bound for Foleux on the River Vilaine.
Dawn was breaking as we came down the hills towards Redon and by
0615 TL was avidly admiring the sun as it cleared the early
morning mist from the mirror like river surface at Foleux. She
was so keen to taste the water that she managed to get launched
by 0840 before allowing the crew any rest. A few hours later SEA
JAY, a cabin cruiser belonging to my bother was spotted coming
down river. TL and SEA JAY had previously cruised together in
Poole Harbour and the greeting in deepest Brittany was
reminiscent of 'TIGER LILY I PRESUME. Both crews made the
acquaintance of Andre and Francoise Lebeau, the very friendly
owners of the creperie and Andre showed us where we could leave
the car and trailer safely for two weeks. Foleux and the Creperie
were so inviting that neither crew wanted to move for the rest of
the day. Much development is occurring at Foleux, the Creperie
is new since last year (the old building demolished and a brand
new one built in April-June), the marina is expanding rapidly and
now there are pontoons across the river. During the short time we
were there a new road and car park were built on the other side.
There is a Chandlery - very useful but we hope that this rapid
expansion does not spoil the charm of the place.
Trail Distance (Cherbourg-Foleux) = 177 miles, Days run = 20
Meters

Tuesday 5th.
A leisurely sail down the river, beating into a light and fluky
F2 wind gave us time to absorb the beauty and serenity of the
river. TL was re-supplied at La Roche Bernard, crews showered
and then on down to Arzal.. The marina looked exposed to the NW
wind and we retired to 'Swallows and Amazon' inlet about 1 mile
upriver on the north bank, just right for inquisitive children
in inflatables.
Days Run = 12 nm.

Wednesday 6th.
We had planned on splitting company with SEA JAY but the SW 5-6
winds and the 'houle' (swell) heard on French weather forecast
were not favourable for leaving the Vilaine. The 'Meteo Marine'
is broadcast at 0655 and 2000 on long wave (164 KHz) - we used
the trick of tape recording it and then replaying the tape until
we could decipher the details (listen for area 'Ouest Bretagne').
Because of the dismal forecast we returned to La Roche Bernard
where the 4 children enjoyed the piscine (swimming pool) whilst
the adults sampled the delights of the town (see Newsletter No
15, page 9 for a description). We all voted for a return to
Foleux to further explore the creperie menu.
Days Run = 9 nm.

Thursday 7th.
The weather outlook improved and so SEA JAY departed upriver
bound for more of the French canal system. Soon after TL slipped
the pontoon under sail and headed back down river for the open
sea. After a stop for lunch at the inlet we tied up on a pontoon
at the modern Arzal marina (north bank). There is now much
development with four large chandleries displaying their wares
Some time was spent watching the lock operations and assessing
the anchorage down river at Vielle Roche. We decided that Port
Camoel across the river from Arzal and above the lock looked more
comfortable and we motored the short distance. Our road maps of
Camoel were not up to date and we spent an hour that evening on
a long walk. Eventually we extracted ourselves from the
countryside, crossed the barrage and enjoyed wonderful galettes
and glaces at the Arzal marina creperie.
Days Run = 11 nm.

Friday 8th - Local HW (0826, LW 1442 Springs)
The 0655 Meteo Marine gave no more mention of 'grande houle'
(large swell) and after slipping at Camoel we arrived 10 minutes
later at the lock- Locking in was simple - in fact being HW
springs we went UP to the sea. Breakfast was completed at anchor
just east of Trehiguier. At 1040 we cleared the river entrance
and TL was glad to see the distant horizon. The crew had demanded
sun and-sand for this holiday and both were available on
Penestin Beach, just south of the river entrance. Lunch was
taken at anchor within swimming distance of the beach - some
intrepid crew made an exploration ashore to view the caves and
population. Anchor was weighed at 1415 and we looked forward to a
beat westwards in a F3. Man Overboard practice took up 45 minutes
but the skipper forgot that by now the river had started flooding
and further westwards progress was getting harder. 'Puke' (the
crew's name for the engine) was entrusted with getting us round
the corner (off Les Mats before we reverted to beating. The
transit for the central pass to Penerf was spotted at 1855 and we
made for the entrance. The westerly wind caused us to anchor off
Cadenic in circumstances similar to those encountered by last
year's expedition.
Days Run = 19 nm.

Saturday 9th. Local HW 0900, LW 1528 (Springs)
Following a favourable Meteo Marine forecast we motored the short
distance to Penerf for supplies. Some dubious water was
obtained from a hand pump on the quay, so we used 'Aqua Tabs'
Petrol was only available 5kms out of town but the local Yamaha
agent had 2 litres which we bought. Departed Penerf river at
1015 (Pignon Tower) and rounded Penvins buoy at 1040. With a SSE
2-3 we got 'Roger' (the autopilot) out and enjoyed our drift
westwards, taking lunch! whilst he took the strain. The first
mate's practice three point fix resulted in a perfect point on
the chart much to everyone's amazement. Puke helped out when the
wind died to zero for a time. The Morbihan was just beginning
to flood when we arrived at the entrance and we decided to use
the engine to go up to Auray. Just after overtaking a British
yacht, 'Poohsticks' we managed to acquire a lump of seaweed round
the propeller. Clearing this only took a few minutes but
involved a few wild manoeuvres in front of Poosticks as we
unfurled and furled the genoa. The mooring was on buoys fore and
aft just down river from the quay at St Goustan, the old quarter
of Auray. This is a very pretty and ancient place but we were
disappointed not to be able to find the water tap on the quay -
instead we filled the water containers at a local garage where we
obtained petrol.
Days Run = 25 nm.

Sunday 10th. Local HW 0945, LW 1605
The plan was to leave Auray at 1330 on the ebb, so as to be at
the bottom of the river at low water and then use the flood to
make Ile Aux Moines. However we arrived off Le Greguan tower
about 40 minutes early giving us adverse tidal streams. Puke
helped us get round the southern end of Ile Longue but we then
decided to dally awhile by sailing round the north side of
Gavrinis. By 1630 the tide had turned giving us a very pleasant
run up towards Ile Aux Moines. After dodging a Vedette (passenger
ferry) or two we made the small 30 berth marina. Our luck was in
an we picked the only pontoon berth available for the night. The
children were soon off to the sandy beach over the hill (about
200 meters).
Days Run = 13 nm.

Monday 11th. Vannes HW 1223
A total absence of wind and the necessity of reaching Vannes
before the lock closed brought Puke into his element. However he
did manage to tangle with some more seaweed. After a little
skirmish round Arradon we moored at Vannes at 1040 in time to
sample the atmosphere of this cathedral town. Time was spent
shopping, showering and writing post cards. The first mate
celebrated her birthday in style that evening in a little
restaurant close to the quay (Les Canotiers).
Days Run = 6 nm.

Tuesday l2th. Vannes HW 1305
Tidal considerations required a departure about l200 so part of
the morning was spent visiting Vannes Aqauarium - a little
expensive and only moderately interesting (it is down by the
Vedette terminal). Lunch was taken anchored off the Ile de
Boedic. We had no definite plans for a destination that evening
and as the wind was light and variable the photographers were
launched into the inflatable whilst TL sailed round and round
having her picture taken from all angles. Later on rounding the
SE corner of lle d'Arz the navigator lost the channel but TL
soon picked up her centreboard and with a little help from 'Puke
and a squint through the hand bearing compass we avoided an
inadvertent drying out. The night anchorage was just off the slip
at Le Bourg on the east side of Ile d'Arz a place visited by last
year's expedition.
Days Run = 9 nm.

Wednesday l3th. Local HW 1156
We sailed off the anchorage using sail alone but watched another
British yacht try the same thing with nearly disastrous results.
Decided to sail the southerly route round Pt de l'Ours, Ile
Govilan and Pt de S. Nicolas in order to time our arrival at
Jumet (a tidal bottleneck) at slack water. After Jumet the wind
had strengthened to SSE F5 - time to set a reef. We left the
Morbihan at 1315 on the first of the ebb but encountered some
steep seas (wind over tide) just off the entrance. The trip
round to the River De Crac'h was ideal, starting close hauled and
ending in a run right up the river to La Trinite. Having moored
on the visitors pontoon (first behind the breakwater) we sighted
a large grey inflatable containing three men sporting 'Douane
Francaise' tee-shirts approaching TL's transom. They demanded to
see our papers - the SSR was handed over hut they wanted to see
our 'entry certificate'. Calm was restored after mentioning 'La
Remorque' (trailer), 'Cherbourg Car Ferry' and 'River Vilaine'.
TL was then duly issued with the appropriate slip of paper. La
Trinite, whilst still one of the French yachting meccas, has been
spoilt somewhat by the tourist industry! with cheap trinket and
post card shops.
Days Run = 16 nm.

Thursday 14th. Local HW 1247
The plan was to anchor for lunch off one of the Carnac beaches
and then proceed to Fort Haliguen on Quiberon - the problem
being that the chart stated that anchoring was restricted near
the beach by yellow buoys. At l305 we dropped the hook amongst
a number of other yachts at the east end of the main Carnac
beach. A shore party went to investigate and returned having
walked the whole beach sampled the ice cream and declared that
every second person was British. We weighed anchor at 1520 and
set a close hauled course for Port Haliguen arriving at the
Pontoon D'Accueil (welcome pontoon).
Days Run = 10 nm.

Friday 15th (Neaps)
Today was going to be a rest day, soaking up the sun on the beach
about 200 metres south of the marina. We awoke to driving mist
and retired back to bunks. Shopping, reading and enjoying glasses
of wine with the couple on 'Lady Grey of Rame' a Contessa 34,
seemed to be our main activities that day. Two burly French
Customs officers arrived but our magic slip of paper from La
Trinite did the trick - however Lady Grey alongside was given
quite a grilling. As it was a local festival day we were treated
during the evening to a fireworks display on the quay. Many
local boats added to the sparkle by letting off red parachute
flares.

Saturday 16th. Local HW 1442
Lady Grey departed at 0930 so as to catch the tide at La
Teignouse. After changing money at the PTT (all Bureau de
Changes were closed) we slipped 30 minutes later and a NE 3-4
wind gave us a good reach for the Ile de Houat. The wind was
clearly a compromise between the French forecast of NW and the
British forecast of SE for Biscay. The beach just east of the
harbour on Houat looked inviting and, hook down (we could see it
in 2.5 metres of water) all crew leapt overboard for a quick dip
before lunch. A scouting party scaled the hill (En Tal) and
declared that the beach on the far side was much better. Within
half and hour we had repositions TL on the other side, having
been 'buzzed' by a fishing boat (fishermen and yachtsmen in
France are not the best of friends). The chart shows the
beautiful south eastern beach (Treac'h er Gouret) as a prohibited
anchoring zone but there were at least a hundred other yachts
anchored - all bigger than TL. The sun god having been satisfied
by 1700. We weighed anchor and with a following NW 1-2 we
drifted slowly over towards the Ile de Hoedic. With the genoa
poled out goosewinging style it soon became apparent that because
of the strong transverse current our ground track was at 45
degrees and we were heading off broadside towards Belle Ile.
Puke came to the rescue again and we soon anchored in the mouth
of L'Argol harbour on the north side of Hoedic. Being Saturday
the harbour was too crowded with other vessels for us to find a
better spot and at 1900 the NW wind was too light to cause much
concern. The pilot book did warn of something called the 'Vent
Solaire' but we did not pay any attention to it as we were too
keen to explore the quaint island and its mysterious fort. By
2130 the wind had risen to F4-5, was still increasing and a fair
chop was being driven into the harbour mouth. We had no other
choice but to stay put and luckily the wind veered slightly
towards the SE enabling the eastern breakwater to give us a
little protection. It seemed that many local French yachts had
been caught unawares also as they had a most uncomfortable night
right in the harbour entrance - we only had a moderately
uncomfortable night.
Days Run = 15 nm.

Sunday 17th. Local HW 1656
Closer reading of the pilot book in the morning revealed that
the Vent Solaire 'blows very freshly, causes a rough sea and
continues until 0800'. The Meteo Marine forecast was satisfactory
except for the wind direction of NE which was our intended
direction. However the longer range forecast looked like
worsening so we decided to head back. towards the mainland. With
two reefs set we left harbour (wind NE 4-5 and rough seas). We
soon noticed that TL was not sailing well beating to windward and
we shook out a reef. After half an hour we decided that the
rough seas were causing excessive strain on the boat and we
resorted to the valiant Puke. As a treat Puke was allowed to
run himself dry (in order to see how far he could go on one tank.
Two and a half hours later he stopped. The wind had disappeared
but the sea was still rough. Puke was given a full lunch and
entrusted with two more hours of work by which time we were south
of Penerf and the crew were shouting 'PUKE OFF'. With all sail
raised a calmer sea and the last of the flood tide we made good
progress towards the River Vilaine. That night we anchored just
below the lock, opposite Vielle Roche, just in case we decided to
have one last beach day at Penestin.
Days Run = 25 nm.

Monday l8th. Local LW 1148
The morning forecast was not good and we had been right to, make
for the mainland yesterday. At 1020 near low water we locked
in at Arzal. The sluices opened and we were unexpectedly thrown
around by the swirl of water. Our stern rope was not effective
because of the height of the lock and with everyone desperately
holding onto the port side ropes. TL was canted over so that the
centreboard nicely caught the water up welling from below. We
had only just previously lowered the centreboard - in hindsight
it would have been better to have kept it raised, had a more
effective stern rope and then kept TL better balanced. Luckily
no damage was sustained. Today was our 'skipper training day'
with the crew each taking it in turns to be skipper. Helen took
the boat off the anchorage, into and out of the lock, Liz took
the boat up the river and onto the pontoon at La Roche Bernard.
Provisioning completed, Heather skippered the boat back to our
favourite inlet for the night, mooring on posts on the bank.
Days Run = 9nm

Tuesday 19th.
We left the inlet at 0950 bound for Foleux with Helen as trainee
skipper for the day and arrived at 1240 in time to sample some
more of Andre's galettes. A trip to Redon in the car completed
the afternoon. Our evening meal at the creperie was excellent
with Andre giving us free aperitifs and a present of a bottle of
Muscadet - we promised to recommend his creperie at Foleux to all
Swifties.
Days Run = 9 nm.

Wednesday 20th.
Although the slip at Foleux was fine for launching TL, it was a
little steep and contained one or two potholes near the bottom.
We had therefore decided to recover TL on an ideal slip at Arzal.
The skipper was promoted to commodore and delegated to transfer
the car and trailer to Arzal, whilst the new skipper, Helen, took
TL down river. The commodore dropped the trailer at Arzal and
then returned to La Roche Bernard in order to take some overhead
photographs as TL passed directly under the suspension bridge.
TL was moored safely at Arzal at 1325 (well done Helen and crew).
In the afternoon we took the opportunity to view Le Croisic, Le
Pouliguen and Pornichet harbours (La Baule) by car.
Days Run = 10 nm.

Thursday 2lst.
After an early breakfast we started recovery at 0910 and were
ready to roll by 1110. Recovery (and launching) above the lock
has the advantage that the trailer is immersed in freshwater and
avoids the need to hose off sea water. The journey to Cherbourg
took six and a half hours and included a stop to tighten some
loose trailer wheel nuts (beware !). After an evening meal in a
Pizza house we boarded the car ferry at 0145 and were back home
by 0734 the next day. Trail distance (Arzal-Cherbourg) 190 miles.
The holiday was such a success that we are already planning on
taking TL abroad again next year. The Baie de Quiberon and the
Morbihan are ideal cruising grounds for SWIFTs and for those
contemplating a trip here are some of our statistics:-