Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

***UPDATE: We have seven sniffers, which is just just right.***

I have added another vintage Weil to my collection, Cassandra EdC in packaging old enough to not have UPC bars on it. At first smell, with moi getting over a cold, this creation of Jacqueline Fraysse is clearly Weil, a cousin to the spicier Zibeline and the sweeter Antilope, with just a hint of that "fond du ashtray" that I find appealing, appearing most notably in Miss Balmain. Propelled thus into a serial sniff, I arrayed them: Antilope, Cassandra, Miss Balmain (not a Weil, but stick with me), and, finally the grande dame Zibeline. This is indeed a scent progression with flowers receding, as wood, smoke and animalics take over. I like the idea of a sample pass that represents a progression. Interested? A mix of experienced* and new** noses would be most welcome.

Re: A rarirty: Weil Cassandra

Oh, my, yes, dear Twolf. I don't know the vintage of my ebay purchase, in a ribbed spray bottle, no box. Miss B is one of the greats in my book. Allow me to announce a sample pass, probably by editing the title of this thread, and see if there is interest.

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

My dear, this sounds lovely, but I'm swamped in samples right now from the Meet-up and probably will be through the New Year. I've made friends with several of these little lovelies, but there are some real stinkers in here that I will be unloading on several you who were unable to join us.

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

Originally Posted by jujy54

I have added another vintage Weil to my collection, Cassandra EdC in packaging old enough to not have UPC bars on it. At first smell, with moi getting over a cold, this creation of Jacqueline Fraysse is clearly Weil, a cousin to the spicier Zibeline and the sweeter Antilope, with just a hint of that "fond du ashtray" that I find appealing, appearing most notably in Miss Balmain. Propelled thus into a serial sniff, I arrayed them: Antilope, Cassandra, Miss Balmain (not a Weil, but stick with me), and, finally the grande dame Zibeline. This is indeed a scent progression with flowers receding, as wood, smoke and animalics take over. I like the idea of a sample pass that represents a progression. Interested? A mix of experienced* and new** noses would be most welcome.

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

Not at all, ScentFan. I've enjoyed your observations here on basenotes, and the best sample passes are a blend of friends old and new, novice and experienced noses. Tell your friends, I'd love to put together a pass for three to five sniffers.

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

I was SO fortunate to be part of your other Weil pass, jujy. And I would really love to try another precious vintage Weil. But I have been in few passes already, I can't possible to take away this great opportunity from someone else. Maybe if you can put me towards the very end, and whatever is left, left - only then I can pacify my consciousness.

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

Fantastic. We have six participants:

•ScentFan
•kalli
•danieq
•matildaben
•juanderer
•WhiteFluffy

Let me double check my decanting supplies and think about what order to pass. What do we say, a new or novice nose to start? Anyone want to be first or last? WiteFluffy, I think your contribution would be valuable somewhere before the end, if that's all right.

I really look forward to reading this. I've been seeing Weil mentioned with much love around here, and it's piqued my interest. I'm buried in work (and samples from Chicago) til after the New Year so I didn't want to jump into the pass, but I'll be stalking the thread to see what you all have to say!

Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

Originally Posted by jujy54

Let me double check my decanting supplies and think about what order to pass. What do we say, a new or novice nose to start? Anyone want to be first or last? WiteFluffy, I think your contribution would be valuable somewhere before the end, if that's all right.

Hi, everyone. I've not forgotten this, just been really under the weather for nearly two weeks. I'll post the order of the sample pass tomorrow, decant this weekend.

I feel some mission creep coming on, as I have just acquired the storied Weil Secret de Venus Huile de Bain (bath oil). Not sure whether to add it to the three Weils plus Miss Balmain, or make it is own event. Thoughts?

Hi, everyone. I've not forgotten this, just been really under the weather for nearly two weeks. I'll post the order of the sample pass tomorrow, decant this weekend.

I feel some mission creep coming on, as I have just acquired the storied Weil Secret de Venus Huile de Bain (bath oil). Not sure whether to add it to the three Weils plus Miss Balmain, or make it is own event. Thoughts?

Hope you feel up to snuff soon! I've read up on Weil and look forward to whatever you send.

My two scents are that Huil de Bain would be better for another event. Only because not everyone is into baths. (I'm assuming that is how you'd test it, though perhaps I am mistaken here and it could be used as a scent just like perfume oil?)

- - - Updated - - -

So sorry to hear that you've been ill. Always so exhausting. Here's hoping you feel better in a flash!

I'm sending along a letter; here's the gist of it:
There are three Weils, which I recommend sniffing in this order, which happens to be newest to oldest, oddly enough:
Antilope, Cassandra, and finally Zibeline.

Cassandra's smokiness reminded me of Miss Balmain, of which there are two samples, an 80s vintage from TWolf (thank you!) and some of uncertain vintage from moi. Sniff the Miss Bs; I will be interested as to whether or not you sense a connection to the Weils. Some days I do, and others I don't. If they share anything, I would say it is "stealth jasmine"; jasmine is present in all of them, but it lurks rather more than shines. I had never connected Miss Balmain at all to jasmine until it got mention on a jasmine thread.

Please pm your sender with contact info.

Happy sniffing; I look forward to everyone's smell-and-tell!

Last edited by jujy54; 20th December 2013 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: speling

Wore Antilope from Jujy's sample this morning. According to Fragrantica...Antilope was introduced in 1946 as a floral aldehyde. Top notes are neroli, bergamot and aldehydes. Heart has clary sage, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation, iris and violet. Base notes include sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka, amber, oak moss and musk. I'm familiar with Antilope as I participated in a split of a bottle awhile ago. In fact, I was moved to grab my vintage PDT decant off the shelf tonight so I could spray extravagantly.

The 3 brothers who founded Weil apparently got their inspiration from fur and it's definitely apparent in the Weil perfumes I've been lucky enough to try. No matter how much you dab (this morning) or spray (tonight), Antilope hugs you close. It's often compared to Chanel #5 (no doubt because of the aldehydes), which I also enjoy. Antilope is a well blended perfume...no single note shouts out at me. Doesn't come off as flowery to me at all. A little herbal, yes, but not sharply so. Warm, fuzzy, comforting (like soft leather) is how I'd describe it, particularly once the base notes kick in (which happens pretty fast in the vintage versions I've tried). I think Antilope is perfect for this time of year. Buyer beware...I've heard the newer reformulated version is unrecognizable as Antilope.

My partner's (not a big perfume fan) immediate impression...baby powder and soft rose. She insisted that I was wearing different perfumes on my two arms and when I informed her that I had sprayed the same perfume from the same bottle on both arms, she told me that I obviously "broke the perfume" that was on my left arm cause she didn't like it nearly as much as the perfume on my right arm. Make of that what you will...

Oh dear. Falling hard for Cassandra. Love this smoky, spicy beauty. I'm wearing Miss Balmain on other arm and I definitely see the similarities particularly in initial phases but turns out I prefer the dry down of Cassandra!

Was trying to find info on Cassandra and stumbled across this from The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Furriers by trade, perfumers by destiny. Since 1920 Alfred, Jacques and Marcel Weil enjoyed great success as designers practicing in the trade of fur at Les Fourrures Weil. Then in 1927 a wealthy client requested a perfume designed especially to sweeten fur without damaging it and Parfums Weil was born. The brothers hired talented nose Claude Fraysse to create the first Weil parfums. Fraysse had trained at Firmenich; he was considered to be the very top nose at Yardley, which was one of the largest commercial perfume houses at the time."

His daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, created Cassandra, which was released in 1936, and it's reported that it took her two years to perfect the formula. Again, according to The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Jacqueline Fraysse...worked in a male dominated field at a time when most young women stayed home, or if they were adventurous, needy or otherwise inclined, worked in other people's homes. She came of age in the electrifying, emancipating atmosphere of 1920s Paris and New York - the Jazz Age. Yet she lived and worked under the watchful eyes of her perfumer father and brothers. Judging from the quality and success of the perfumes, she flourished even throughout the difficult years of depression and war that followed."

I love that I'm wearing a perfume created by a female "nose" back in the 20s/30s.

According to Perfumed Court, the notes for Cassandra are "anise like... a hint of stryax, fruits and florals." As I've found with all the Weil perfumes I've experienced to date, the perfume notes in Cassandra are beautifully blended and the perfume hugs close rather than creating a trail behind you.