Few tourists make it to the central Enna region, with its pretty hilltop towns, and hidden valleys - but they should

“Mi scusi, dove il ... (and here my remedial-class Italian slips away) the,
er, view?” The elderly gent shrugs in an — admittedly rare — example of
Sicilian tourist fatigue and gestures in the general direction of an
all-encompassing panoramic vista. Except we can’t see it. We are a thousand
metres up in Piazza Crispi amid Enna old town where, as every guidebook
tells you, there are unsurpassed views down to the hills and valleys of
ancient central Sicily and the pretty town of Calascibetta. On a good day
you can see the three corners of the island. Except that this is not