The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This line while not as classic as the other tower routes due to it's less than perfect rock and squeezed feeling is worth doing once you have sent all the other routes on the tower, or are just looking for another 12c to prepare for the harder tower routes.

Head up the slabby ramp of Golden Stairs to the 5th Bolt. Here head straight up through steep jugs past the 6th and 7th bolts. Make a hard move pulling over the roof at the 7th bolt on small pockets, to sustained pocket pulling past the next two bolts. At the ninth bolt head slightly right to the anchors.

For the 12c grade head left at the 8th bolt, to me this felt like the natural line. The holds can be tough to spot on the onsight burn.

For the 12b grade break right at the 8th bolt to climb jugs close to Golden Stairs.

Location

Shares start with Goliath and Golden Stairs. At the 5th Bolt of Golden Stairs head Straight up.

Protection

Great movement but the rock is worse than that of any other route on the tower. Sent a few chunks toward my belayer but nothing substantial. Certainly worth doing if you have run out of tower routes. Fortunately, none of the actual holds broke on me, though some appear suspect.