Looking For Love The Frill Is Back. Frocks Are Full Of Taffeta, Silk, Crinoline And Lace. The Designers Have Spoken: Oh, So Fun, So Feminine -- Just Right For Coy Coquettes.

November 16, 1986|By KARYN SNEAD, Fashion Writer

NEW YORK -- What, oh what, do modern women want? That`s a tough one. Even Freud had a bit of trouble with it.

But it`s no problem for American fashion designers. They are convinced that, come spring, women will want Romance. And naturally, they will want proper clothing to go looking for love.

Recently, the fashion press and clothing buyers attended the spring `87 fashion preview in New York. They heard the roar of romance on Seventh Avenue captured in the rustle of bustles and the crush of crinoline.

And they met the jeune fille -- that alluring, innocent, giggling gamin, that oh-so frivolous flirt.

Who is she? Well, the jeune fille, a term coined by folks at WWD, omniscient bible of style, is the customer designers had in mind when they designed clothing for spring -- frilly dresses, kicky flirt skirts, bouncy bubble dresses, strapless bustiers, drop-shoulder tops and halter sundresses with layer upon endless layer of taffeta, silk and crinoline.

The jeune fille first flounced down the Paris runways last April, giggling and gamboling, outfitted in madcap, tongue-in-chic haughty couture by the likes of Christian LaCroix for Patou, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and legendary Claude Montana. And American designers, almost down the line, embraced her with relish and gave her a new spring wardrobe.

Pretty scary, eh?

The designers didn`t see an adult woman with a home, a job, a husband, a family (or all of those) and never-ending responsibilities. No, this spring they see a giggling young girl with lots of parties to attend.

That, and that alone, should give you a pretty good clue to upcoming spring styles: It`s coquette chic. Everything for spring is just so fun, so feminine and ever so frilly.

WHAT TO WEAR, OR CARE

OK, you are probably thinking. Fine. Even dandy. The new spring styles sound perfect for doing all kinds of Harlequin novel kinds of things. Like desire under the elms, afternoon picnics in the park, chi-chic cocktail parties and champagne balls every night of the week. For these spring clothes, a woman will need a social calendar the size of Texas.

But just try getting in and out of a car in crinoline. Now imagine wearing taffeta to the office. Will a bustle be advisable going down the aisles in the supermarket? And how will a strapless pouf party dress go over at the monthly PTA get-together?

So what are American women with jobs, families and lives that entail activities other than endless partying going to choose from this spring?

Don`t panic. The giddy gamut of styles paraded on the New York runways will be watered down into fairly wearable spring clothing.

Skirts -- Short and flirty, please. The best look for spring is very, very leggy. Push out those short flared skirts with crinoline petticoats, if you must. Or wear long full and flowing skirts.

Silhouette -- The good news is that body-consciousness is fading into oblivion. The new improved female shape is a small slender top, cinched waist and full bottoms. If your bottom line is not big enough to meet the new standards of beauty, try wearing peplum (a garment flared from the waist to the hips) jackets, blouses and dresses. Or anything with a bustle effect (gathered material at the back of a garment) for added dimension in the rear view.

Pants -- Not in very big demand this season. Wear them full if you simply must, but always with a wide belt to cinch the waist. Capri pants look cute under those full skirts. Biker-sleek shorts are cute if you have the thighs for it.

Jackets -- Short, swingy and cropped matador-style or nipped in at the waist with peplum treatments. Jewel collar, single-breasted and even something that looks suspiciously like a Nehru-style collar.

Materials -- Clingy jersey is the best bet. It hugs and drapes the top, and with the proper layers of petticoats, the skirt can stand out in a crowd. Linen is not as important as last year. Cotton is a biggie. And, of course, not to forget taffeta.

Colors -- Black and white are still going strong. Lots of warm brown with black. Always-typical soft pastels are still hanging around. Lots of pure Crayola brights. However, hot pink is the hue most on view.

Patterns -- Classic sailor stripes and polka dots are everywhere. Still mix- matching prints. Sixties paisleys abound. Still some chintz but not much.