Project Overview

It’s amazing what you can do with a few boards from an old pallet and some timber. You’ll love the uniqueness of this wooden hall table. It’s really easy to make and its recycled, rustic style will add character to any room in your home.
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How to remove difficult screws

Sometimes tight or rusted screws just won’t come out. To fix this problem, pour some white vinegar into a small bowl and use an eyedropper to drip some on the head of the screw. Wait for several minutes while the vinegar flows down over the thread. Take your screwdriver and give it another go and you’ll be amazed at just how easily the screw comes out.

Step 1. Make the first angle cut on a leg

Your table will need splayed legs to give it extra stability. To do this, cut the ends off your timber length with the drop saw set at a 5-degree angle. Then mark and measure 700mm along the timber. At your marking, make another cut at the 5-degree angle with your drop saw. You’ll need to do this for all four table legs.

Step 2. Measure and mark the taper for the legs

Turn each timber length over so they’re sitting on their 90mm side. At one end measure and mark at 85mm, which is the widest part that will attach to the table, and on the bottom of the length, measure and mark at 50mm. Draw a straight line between these points on each leg.

Step 3. Cut the legs

Step 4. Measure and mark the slats

For this project, we’re using timber slats from a pallet as the top of the hall table. Measure and mark the slats between the pallet frame. We used 16 slats, which were 360mm long, and this will be the width of the table.

Step 5. Cut the slats

Step 6. Lay out the slats

Lay out the slats onto the ply for your table top. The 16 slats we used measured 360mm x 1200mm long. This will also be the dimensions for your table. Once you’ve laid out the slats on the ply base, mark on the ply where to trim it.

Step 7. Cut the ply to size

Step 8. Measure and mark for the legs

Measure and mark the positions of the table legs on the ply. Our four legs were attached 150mm from the end of the inside of the leg and 50mm from the side. Using a level at the base of the splayed leg will help ensure it sits inside the table top and doesn’t splay further than the top.

Step 9. Attach the legs

Pre-drill holes with a 3mm drill bit in the ply to attach the legs. This will make it easier to line up your legs before screwing. Use the 50mm timber screws to attach the legs. Screw from the top of the ply into each leg. To make this step easier, you will need someone to hold the legs while you attach them.

Step 10. Secure the slats

Before attaching the slats, try mixing and matching the light and dark lengths until you’re happy with their pattern. Then make sure you remove them in order, then apply liquid nails to the ply and lay the slats on top in the same order. Use the fixing gun to secure the slats into place.

Step 14. Fix the longer sides to the table

Place the timber for the frame so that it sits as flush as possible to the lowest of the slats. Start at one end and use the fixing gun to attach the frame along the lengths. Make sure the table is kept straight to reduce bowing.

Step 15. Measure the width of the table

Once both sides are attached, measure and mark the timber for the shorter sides. To do this, measure from short end to long end. Set the drop saw to 45-degrees. Cut them to size and nail them in place.

Step 16. Measure and mark for the shelf

Adding a shelf to your table will give you some storage space as well as more stability. We’re using a laminated hardwood panel for our shelf. At the height that you want the shelf, measure the distance between the legs.

Step 17. Cut the shelf to size

Step 18. Attach the shelf

Use the 3mm drill bit to pre-drill the holes to secure the shelf. Then use 65mm screws to secure the shelf. A good tip is to use timber off-cuts and clamp them to the legs to make sure the shelf is level.

Step 19. Putty up any holes

Step 20. Sand the table

For a great finish for your table, you’ll need to give it a good sand. Start with a belt sander and a 40 grit belt and then an 80 grit belt to sand the top of the table. Make sure to follow the grain of the timber when you’re sanding. Then use an orbital sander on the legs and shelf with an 80 grit pad and then 240 grit sandpaper to finish it off. Wipe away any dust.

Step 21. Wax the table

To finish off the table you can paint, varnish or wax it. We used a natural wax to protect the table and bring out the natural grain of the timber. Apply as many coats as necessary. For our table, we applied two coats.

Health & Safety

Please make sure you use all equipment appropriately and safely when following the advice in these D.I.Y. videos. You need to be familiar with how to use equipment safely and follow the instructions that came with the equipment. If you are unsure, you may feel it is safest to consult an expert, such as the manufacturer or an expert Bunnings Team Member.

Grave health hazards are linked to asbestos, which may be in homes built up to 1990. Health hazards may result from exposure to lead-based paints in older materials and copper chromium arsenic (CCA) treated timber. For information on the dangers of asbestos, lead-based paint and CCA treated timber and tips for dealing with these materials contact your local council's Environmental Health Officer or visit our Health & Safety page. You can also use a simple test kit from Bunnings to indicate the presence of lead-based paint.

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