For more than a year, Houston’s cafe society has been holding its breath in anticipation of the scheduled September reopening of Tony’s (1801 Post Oak Boulevard). Not only has the interior been lavishly remodeled to suggest a restaurant on the Italian Riviera, but owner Tony Vallone and chef Mark Cox have made extensive dining excursions to France, Italy, and New York to sample the best food around. Their collaboration has inspired many new dishes, including this creamy halibut on a bed of green lentils and crisp diced vegetables. A silken purée of fresh asparagus melds the flavors together, while a dash of balsamic vinegar adds verve.

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