Steven in Soweto

By Steven Raichlen

Steven in Soweto

The Planet Barbecue world tour continues. This stop: Soweto, Johanneburg, South Africa. Epicenter of the anti-apartheid and liberation movement and of pulsing kwaito music. And of course, the Southwest Township is a hotspot of a singular and singularly pleasing style of barbecue: “buy and braai.”
The buying is done at a butcher shop, like the one owned by Jo Jo Bojar, pictured here with Steven.

The meats are arranged in a refrigerated showcase–pork shoulder, T-bone steaks, brisket–sliced thin (not more than 1/4 inch thick) for quick cooking and maximum tenderness.

While you’re at it, pick up a package of your favorite spice mix–piri-piri, a fiery chili spice from neighboring Mozambique, for example. Sprinkle the meat (farmers sausage and rib steaks here) with the spice mixture.

Then grill the meats on the charcoal fired 55 gallon drum grill Jo Jo provides for her customers to cooking.

All this and you get change from a 50 Rand bill. Of course, if you go to a proper restaurant in Soweto, like Ukhamba pictured below, the chef will gladly do the grilling for you.

Buy and braai shops can be found throughout the townships around Johannesburg. Most hotels can arrange for a guide to show you around.
African