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When you get to 12 tuners, five will be from the HR34, so this leaves 7 others, but one must be a receiver [only] with one tuner.This means [or sound like it would] you could split them 6 & 6.If so, then a 2-way on one output and a 4-way on the other output would work, right? [if not please list the receivers you are planning to keep]This would leave the two highest SWiM channels free on both legs, along with using the smallest splitters you need. "Generally" this would be the best option.

Yes, one of these is a receiver & so I could do 6 & 6. I don't know for sure which cable goes to the receiver but it is one of only two choices (the others I know for sure where they go) so it would not be hard to figure out. So, I'd use 2 connectors on one splitter & 3 connectors on the other, right? I'm not understanding the 2-way & 4-way you mention & what are the two highest SWiM channels?

Yes, one of these is a receiver & so I could do 6 & 6. I don't know for sure which cable goes to the receiver but it is one of only two choices (the others I know for sure where they go) so it would not be hard to figure out. So, I'd use 2 connectors on one splitter & 3 connectors on the other, right? I'm not understanding the 2-way & 4-way you mention & what are the two highest SWiM channels?

Going back to the image you posted, the upper left shows three 2-way splitters, and on the upper right is one 4-way,So "one from column A and one from column B" [a 2-way & a 4-way].The SWiM has nine channels, where #1 is the guide data [common to all receivers/tuners] and then #2 to #9 are used for tuners. The higher the channel [frequency] the more loss between the SWiM-16 and the tuner, so the tuners get a stronger signal using the lower "channels", than when using the higher[est] channels.

Maybe explaining this a bit more would help:The HR34 and another single tuner on one SWiM output using just a 2-way splitter, has optimized the signal levels on this side.On the other side of the SWiM, you have 3 receivers to connect, so a 4-way would use three and a termination on the unused port.Now if one receiver is say 50' farther from the SWiM than the other two are, "you could" use a 2-way splitter with one output going to this receiver that is farther away, and then the other output of this [first] 2-way splitter then connects to another 2-way splitter [sort of like the image on the upper left, but with one splitter missing] and then from this second splitter you connect the last two receivers that were closer to the SWiM.The idea with all of this is to keep the input signal levels to all receivers as high as you can, which would help when rainfade starts, as the stronger the signal to start with, the less rainfade you'll have.

I am getting ready to move from a 12 year old SD system to an H34, 2 additional receivers, whole house dvr and direct cinema.

New dish will be a SL5-SWM, PI-21 power supply, + SWS-4 splitter.

I am going to install a new pole mount and dish myself, pull the cable and just have the Directv installer do the dish alignment, terminate the cables, and make the grounding connections.

My house is all steel construction (red iron for main support, light gauge for the interior walls). Every room as at least one media outlet with 2 cat 5 and 2 quad shielded RG6 home run. Cat 5 is terminated in 110 punch down blocks.

If I run epvc from the pole into the attic will they attach the ground at the attic, at the Pole or both? Just trying to figure out how much excess cable to pull.

Since this will be an H34 do I really need the BB Deca? I read in one of your earlier posts that it wasn't necessary

I am getting ready to move from a 12 year old SD system to an H34, 2 additional receivers, whole house dvr and direct cinema.

New dish will be a SL5-SWM, PI-21 power supply, + SWS-4 splitter.

I am going to install a new pole mount and dish myself, pull the cable and just have the Directv installer do the dish alignment, terminate the cables, and make the grounding connections.

My house is all steel construction (red iron for main support, light gauge for the interior walls). Every room as at least one media outlet with 2 cat 5 and 2 quad shielded RG6 home run. Cat 5 is terminated in 110 punch down blocks.

If I run epvc from the pole into the attic will they attach the ground at the attic, at the Pole or both? Just trying to figure out how much excess cable to pull.

Since this will be an H34 do I really need the BB Deca? I read in one of your earlier posts that it wasn't necessary

Cheers

Steve

The HR34 can do the same thing as a BB DECA.Grounding inside your home isn't a good idea, so you should have a ground point before it enters your house. "Should you need" this ground to actually discharge a large charge, you wouldn't want it to be inside.

Going back to the image you posted, the upper left shows three 2-way splitters, and on the upper right is one 4-way,So "one from column A and one from column B" [a 2-way & a 4-way].The SWiM has nine channels, where #1 is the guide data [common to all receivers/tuners] and then #2 to #9 are used for tuners. The higher the channel [frequency] the more loss between the SWiM-16 and the tuner, so the tuners get a stronger signal using the lower "channels", than when using the higher[est] channels.

Maybe explaining this a bit more would help:The HR34 and another single tuner on one SWiM output using just a 2-way splitter, has optimized the signal levels on this side.On the other side of the SWiM, you have 3 receivers to connect, so a 4-way would use three and a termination on the unused port.Now if one receiver is say 50' farther from the SWiM than the other two are, "you could" use a 2-way splitter with one output going to this receiver that is farther away, and then the other output of this [first] 2-way splitter then connects to another 2-way splitter [sort of like the image on the upper left, but with one splitter missing] and then from this second splitter you connect the last two receivers that were closer to the SWiM.The idea with all of this is to keep the input signal levels to all receivers as high as you can, which would help when rainfade starts, as the stronger the signal to start with, the less rainfade you'll have.

Sorry, I posted the picture because I had a question about the splitter itself & thought the picture would serve as a reference but I just middied the waters :-). I have a SWiM16 with two splitters -- the standard set up. I have all 4 DVRs & 1 Receiver already hooked up & working from a D* installation 18 months ago when Whole Home was first offered via DECA. I will soon replace one DVR with an HR34. From your pevious posts I am now comfortable with how I should set up the 2 splitters. However, when I looked at the splitters I couldn't tell how the cables go into them -- the ends didn't look threaded from what I could tell. I didn't take any tools with me when I went into the attic so I coouldn't try loosening a cable. I'll have to rearrange some of the cables to get the 6/6 tuner split & I'd like to know how to undo the cables from the splitters.

Sorry, I posted the picture because I had a question about the splitter itself & thought the picture would serve as a reference but I just middied the waters :-). I have a SWiM16 with two splitters -- the standard set up. I have all 4 DVRs & 1 Receiver already hooked up & working from a D* installation 18 months ago when Whole Home was first offered via DECA. I will soon replace one DVR with an HR34. From your pevious posts I am now comfortable with how I should set up the 2 splitters. However, when I looked at the splitters I couldn't tell how the cables go into them -- the ends didn't look threaded from what I could tell. I didn't take any tools with me when I went into the attic so I coouldn't try loosening a cable. I'll have to rearrange some of the cables to get the 6/6 tuner split & I'd like to know how to undo the cables from the splitters.

So it sounds like you have terminations on the splitter where cables aren't connected.In the picture the single connector at the top is the input, which connects to the SWiM.If you have a "standard install", you most likely have two 8-ways, which would look like the splitter in the lower right.Looking at the 4-way in the upper right, you can see the one open port on the left, with three terminations on the ports to the right [the four on the bottom], so you'll need a 7/16 wrench to loosen and remove these where you have to connect a cable.

The HR34 can do the same thing as a BB DECA.Grounding inside your home isn't a good idea, so you should have a ground point before it enters your house. "Should you need" this ground to actually discharge a large charge, you wouldn't want it to be inside.

Thanks VOS - I will make sure the epvc is 6 inches or so shy of the eave to leave room to install the terminal block with ground. Nice to know I can save a little money and have one less point of potential failure in the home.

Thanks VOS - I will make sure the epvc is 6 inches or so shy of the eave to leave room to install the terminal block with ground. Nice to know I can save a little money and have one less point of potential failure in the home.

Cheers

Steve

Not sure where your ground point is, but I'd want mine to be closer to the "dirt". Maybe a breakout box before it runs up the wall.

Not sure where your ground point is, but I'd want mine to be closer to the "dirt". Maybe a breakout box before it runs up the wall.

That would be easy enough to add. Not sure whether code requires it right at the entry point or not (its about 14' up) But it won't hurt to have the box there and then let the installer do whats necessary for code etc:)

The nice thing about the steel house - the whole thing is a ground. The rebar in the slab extends out and has been grounded, and the structure attached to ground as well. Since I live in the lightning capital of the world good ground is a necessity

Hey VOS, first of all you seem to really be on top of the game. I work for Directv, and volunteered to do a presentation on the built in self test. I've experimented with it the last few weeks, but the research I've attempted online doesn't seem to get me very far.

I just want to be a little more in-depth with my explanations. I have researched the different types of memory being tested, but have no idea what those memories affect (EEPROM, SDRAM and I'm also showing how to clear NVRAM to speed up nonresponsive DVRs). Maybe a cross reference for symptoms/problems with the different memories would help. I also know it tests the HDMI connection, but is it just testing the driver? If there is no signal to the TV could you still test it through component for example as long as HDMI is still connected?

Sorry so long, I just want to be able to answer the tough questions that I'm sure will follow. Any help or direction to a solid source would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hey VOS, first of all you seem to really be on top of the game. I work for Directv, and volunteered to do a presentation on the built in self test. I've experimented with it the last few weeks, but the research I've attempted online doesn't seem to get me very far.

I just want to be a little more in-depth with my explanations. I have researched the different types of memory being tested, but have no idea what those memories affect (EEPROM, SDRAM and I'm also showing how to clear NVRAM to speed up nonresponsive DVRs). Maybe a cross reference for symptoms/problems with the different memories would help. I also know it tests the HDMI connection, but is it just testing the driver? If there is no signal to the TV could you still test it through component for example as long as HDMI is still connected?

Sorry so long, I just want to be able to answer the tough questions that I'm sure will follow. Any help or direction to a solid source would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

EEPROM is Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory, which is where the firmware is stored. SDRAM is like a PC's memory, and used for the processes.NVRAM, is "non-volatile memory", which keeps its data when the power cord is removed. Things like your zipcode for active channels are stored here.As for the rest of the test results, I'd need to do what you've been doing to see what the results are.These are basically a pass or call for a replacement, since there isn't anything to fix in the field.

Thank you so much for the quick reply. This is very helpful (as I knew it would be). I'd researched what the different types of memory were, but couldn't find anything specific that they were for. I figured the firmware had to be eprom, but I'm still curious why clearing the nv speeds up slow dvrs. Thanks again for the help. Another tech actually directed me to you.

Thank you so much for the quick reply. This is very helpful (as I knew it would be). I'd researched what the different types of memory were, but couldn't find anything specific that they were for. I figured the firmware had to be eprom, but I'm still curious why clearing the nv speeds up slow dvrs. Thanks again for the help. Another tech actually directed me to you.

I think we all are. It seems some of the things like scoreguide are loading and not clearing themselves out of memory, when they should. This is just a guess on my part.

veryoldschool you have a router in one room hooked up to a broadband deca. in another room its a hard to get to spot for wiring there is only the sattelitte line going to a receiver deca then to an HR23 HDDVR. my question is in that room say I want to put a switch to do an XBOX, A dvd player, an internet TV etc. Can I put a 2 way splitter, one side to a receiver deca to a switch and one side to a receiver deca to the HR23. would that work oh wise one?

veryoldschool you have a router in one room hooked up to a broadband deca. in another room its a hard to get to spot for wiring there is only the sattelitte line going to a receiver deca then to an HR23 HDDVR. my question is in that room say I want to put a switch to do an XBOX, A dvd player, an internet TV etc. Can I put a 2 way splitter, one side to a receiver deca to a switch and one side to a receiver deca to the HR23. would that work oh wise one?

It would work, and of course not be a supported method, but you're also adding the splitter loss in, so the SAT/SWiM signal will be lower.Another way [again unsupported] would be to do this:

The SAT levels stay the same, the increased traffic would be the same as using two DECAs, so it might be a better [and cheaper] option.

now say the same receiver in the picture is a HR24.. u could still use the receiver deca to send internet to the switch but just wouldnt need the line going from the switch to the ethernet port of the 24 right ?

now say the same receiver in the picture is a HR24.. u could still use the receiver deca to send internet to the switch but just wouldnt need the line going from the switch to the ethernet port of the 24 right ?

The 24s disable their internal DECA when the ethernet port is connected, and they can't power a white DECA, so the wireless CCK would be a better option. Don't activate the wireless function and use its ethernet port like this:http://www.dbstalk.c...=1&d=1310680751

This also keeps the SAT/SWiM levels the same and lets you add an ethernet port.

I am upgrading my system to a SWM16. Currently have 2 HR20-700's and an HR21-200 and a H23-600. These are all ran off of a WB68. I have OTA diplexed to the 700's. I am also running MRV through my home Ethernet. I plan to add an HR34 in the near future so I need the additional tuners. I also am planning that after the SWM is in place to move the MRV to DECA to get it off my network. I understand that when I do that I can no longer diplex the OTA signals via the SWM

This weekend is step one beginning with upgrading to the SWM. I think I have the steps down.

Power down the receivers

Disconnect the Sat and receiver connections from the WB68

Remove the BBC's from the receivers

Install SWM16 and reconnect the Sat connections to the SWM

Add a 4 port splitter off of SWM1 and use a single coax line to each receivers

Run a coax from the PI-29 (red port) to the DC/PWR port of the SWM16

Power up the SWM

Power up the receivers

Seems pretty simple. But having your knowledgeable eyes take a look and comment would give me great comfort!

One question I had is there any restriction on the length of the coax between the PI29 and the SWM16 DC/PWR port? I have seen discussion of their being a minimum of 15' required at one point.

Another question I had was when I do move the MRV to DECA cloud does the BB DECA connection to the internet count as a tuner when I add it to the splitter off of one of the SWM ports?

I am getting around to upgrading my SWiM 8 to a SWiM16... Currently, my SWiM8 is located outside near my service entrence. I am currently using my Cat5 network for whole home connectivity. But with the SWiM16, I was hoping to just enable deca and get that DTV traffic off of my network. I was planning to just pull the 4 wires from my SL5 into my house and connect everything in my utility closet. Problem is, the DTV installer gave me virtually no extra coax outside, leaving me with a delima... is there a lesser of 2 evils here?

1) Just swap out the SWiM8 and SWiM16, leaving it outside of my house. And pull an additional coax cable from the SWiM16 to feed the 2nd leg of the switch.

I am getting around to upgrading my SWiM 8 to a SWiM16... Currently, my SWiM8 is located outside near my service entrence. I am currently using my Cat5 network for whole home connectivity. But with the SWiM16, I was hoping to just enable deca and get that DTV traffic off of my network. I was planning to just pull the 4 wires from my SL5 into my house and connect everything in my utility closet. Problem is, the DTV installer gave me virtually no extra coax outside, leaving me with a delima... is there a lesser of 2 evils here?

1) Just swap out the SWiM8 and SWiM16, leaving it outside of my house. And pull an additional coax cable from the SWiM16 to feed the 2nd leg of the switch.