During the summer months, I take advantage of the abundance of tomatoes and put them in the oven to roast. The heavenly smells take me back to Italy, where I first learned how to make this version of tomato sauce. The tomatoes are gently pulsed in a food processor, which yields a lighter sauce. You don’t have to reserve this sauce for pasta—dollop it on fish, vegetables, and meat dishes.

Gently squeeze the tomatoes by hand to remove excess seeds, then put them in a bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Place the tomatoes, cut side down, in a single layer on sheet pans and roast for 20 to 30 minutes, until the skins are just browning and the juices are bubbly. Let cool for 5 minutes, then lift off the skins with a fork.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saucepan, then add the onion and a pinch of salt and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon of salt and continue to sauté until the carrots become just tender, about 5 minutes.

Lift the tomatoes off the sheet pans and transfer to a food processor, then pour in any pan juices. Add the carrot mixture and the basil and pulse until pureed but still a little chunky. Transfer back into the saucepan and stir in 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Taste. Tomatoes can sometimes be acidic, so you may want to add a pinch of sweetener and another pinch of salt.

VARIATION: If fresh tomatoes aren’t available, you can substitute two 28-ounce cans of plum tomatoes.