FRANCE: Champagne & Catsup

The barman at Harry's New York Bar on the Rue
Daunou ran a moody eye over his orderly customers, wiped a glass and
remembered sadly, "We used to have four times as many Americans in
here. They drank four times as much and got into four times as many
fights."

Other Parisian hosts, however, had little time for such sentimental
regrets. This year's tourists might be better behaved than the old,
carefree variety, but during the 1949 season they had flocked to France
almost 3,000,000 strong to swell the nation's economy with $195 million
worth of foreign exchange and provide...