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Friday, November 30, 2012

Vogue 8824 in Green Wool Crepe

I loved this pattern/silhouette as soon as it came out and I picked a green double sided wool crepe from Mood back in August to sew it up in. I just needed the temperatures to drop to use it. Of course since its the end of November, the temps have dropped so now making & wearing the dress is perfect. Green is one of the hot colors for fall so I was thrilled to find the fabric in this color and to be able to add it to my fall wardrobe while it was still on trend.

Some stats:Fabric ~Green double sided wool crepe from the Mood store in NYCNotions ~Gray rayon bemberg lining1 6" Riri zipperPattern Alterations:Even though this pattern goes up to an XXL (size 24-26) in Vogue land, as a plus size chick I know that Vogue cuts their plus size patterns on the slim side rather than the full size. So the first alteration I made to all the pattern pieces (front, back & sleeve) was to alter them using my TNT (tried and true) dress pattern. I do this by creating a pattern sandwich

first my TNT dress pattern is laid down

then the pattern piece from V8824

finally tracing paper is added to the top

then I trace a new pattern piece

All my fitting issues are resolved by using my TNT dress pattern and I don't have to start from scratch with the new pattern. I also altered the shoulder seam on the pattern pieces front and back by 1.5". That was the extent of the pattern alterations. Due to a lack of fabric, I thought I had more than I did, the sleeves ended up having a seam down the middle to get them out of the yardage I had left.Construction Changes:I made a few changes to make the dress more like I imagined it. I omitted the facings and added a lining to the body of the dress but not the sleeves. The pattern suggests that you cut the back on the fold. I need body definition so I added a center back seam. I also topstitched the v-neckline and the center seam on the sleeves. But the biggest change I made was to the pockets. The pattern calls for patch pockets - big fat patch pockets on the front of the dress. Well I guess if you're not sporting additional abdomen fat on the front of you, those pockets would work...but in my world I don't call attention to my extra large protrusions. In my world, I hide them by any means necessary...so after rooting through a few books and looking at some pics online, I decided to go with zipper pockets.Zipper Pocket Techniques:First, I found this tutorial online from Sew Mama Sew. It was very helpful in making the one pocket that appears on my dress. Now why is there only one pocket? Because I was fearless in cutting a hole into the front of my dress piece when I didn't have any more fabric left to recut the front. Seriously people I don't know what the hell I was thinking! Because of course, I cut the hole to big! Why wouldn't I? I'm not the most precise sewist...I just like to sew and have some great ideas...but precision sewing...that ain't me!So in the middle of the night, I'm screaming at the television and at myself because I've got to make this work. I even started to take pictures of this before I effed it up!

Added fusible interfacing and marking the zipper pocket

Sewing the zipper pocket in

Dress front and the zipper pocket.

Look closely you can see the offense!

After many prayers, some stitch witchery and a lot of pressing I fixed the problem. I mean you can only see the hole if you're really close to me, looking for it...or so my daughter says. That is why there is only ONE zipper pocket (which doesn't have a pocket bag on the back because I decided to stop while I was ahead!) It does look kinda kewl on the dress front though, right?Wearability Factor:I wore this dress with the ivory tank top to work on Monday. It was a pretty cold morning but the dress and turtleneck were just too warm to combine in real life. Also, this dress needs a back zipper so that I can step in and out of it. Even though the front v-neckline is low and you are able to get into and out of the garment that way, it's not easy for me. So all future versions will have a back zipper. Now if you're contemplating making the pattern, I highly suggest that you add a center back seam and use a zipper. Otherwise, the dress wore very well and garnered quite a few compliments.So a few more pictures...

A side/back view

Worn with a tank top

& showing the zipper pocket

Back view

Conclusion:I will make this again. I already have an idea of how I want to make it as a tunic top with a skirt and/or pants. I also have several different embellishment ideas running through my head. Second, zipper pockets would be an amazing addition to this pattern, just leave enough fabric to practice them first! And finally, this is a great pattern that would look great on many different body types.

You're not the only person to have to deal with the pocket in the front issue - but I think it looks fantastic and a great use of that zipper - just the touch. Great shape; great color. I love it. Green is one of my favs.

I LOVE this color on you...I'm sorry you don't have more of the fabric because it is so flattering to you. I like the one pocket too...the 3/4 shot looks great; the slanted angle of of the zipper is flattering. I like the contrast of the gold with the green as well. Great job!

I LOVE this dress on you! Everything about it is fantastic! I really like that there's only a single zipper pocket. The ivory turtleneck looks awesome underneath, but I can understand it being far too hot inside buildings. It would be neat to have just the neck & front section of a turtleneck, but I'm baffled how it would stay put!!

Love this on you! And it's comforting to know that even someone as talented as you sometimes has to work around her mistake;) I was surprised when I looked at the pattern to see that Vogue doesn't recommend it for the rectangle figure (which I am). I can't see why not? I often can't figure out their guideline recommendations. Are they to be ignored or not?

Your green dress is so beautiful, flattering style and looks comfortable. I love it! I also have a question about the faux leather trim used on your cardigan. I want to use something like that on a felted wool coat, so what weight did you use and where did you buy it? It seems like upholstery weight would be too thick but it's hard to tell shopping online. Thank you.