Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Today I have a super sweet pattern for you to try out. Its not quite as simple as some of my other patterns, but Im hoping it wont be all that hard either. It is a little bonnet that features a ripple and a bobble. It only has a few rows, so instruction wise its easy enough to read. If you use the same materials and rows as I have, it will fit a bub of 36 weeks gestation, but it is very easy to make it larger or smaller.

R1: dc in the 4th chain from hook, dc in the next 3 chains *skip 2 chains, dc in the next 4 chains, ch2, dc in the next 4 chains* repeat twice more, skip the next 2 chains, dc in the next 2 chains, 2dc in the next chain and dc in the last chain.

R2: ch3 (counts as a dc), skip 1, dc twice in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches *skip 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, in the ch2 space (bobble, ch2, bobble), dc in the next 3 stitches* repeat twice more, skip 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the top of the turning chain.

Repeat R2 10 more times.

Fold your piece in half and sew up the back seam. Turn right way in so seam is on the inside.

On one bottom corner join your yarn and ch2, dc evenly along the entire bottom edge of the bonnet until you reach the other corner.
ch2, turn, dc in each stitch across, back across the bottom edge. End off and weave in all ends.

Cut 3 60cm strands of yarn for each tie. Fold in half, attach to corners and plait to make a braid. You can find more information on doing that HERE

Monday, July 29, 2013

Today's pattern is a very special one, that was designed with one of my dear friends in mind. Everyone needs a bit of rainbow in their day, and being that here in Aus its wet, cold and all wintery, this is the perfect thing to not only give you some colour pop, but add a little neck warm.

Im sure it would look fabulous in other colours also, why not try it!

Chain pieces. All pieces are chained with 2 strands of DK weight yarn held together, and using a 6.5mm hook.
I chained each colour a slightly different length as I found all the same tended to bunch a lot, and when you have a larger chest, bunching = bad mkay!

Also note that I joined my strands after I was done, but you can also join them with a sl st before ending off if you like.

First we need a small wrap to keep all the strands together, so with 2 strands of white and a 5mm hook

chain 5
1. hdc into the second chain from hook, and the remaining 3 chains (4hdc)
2. ch1, turn, hdc across
repeat row 2 for 6 more rows. End off and leave a long tail for sewing wrap together.

Line all the joins in your chains up and use the white wrap piece to encase them. Sew the ends together to form a tube around the chains. If you want to, you can also sew a few times right through one side and out the other, catching the chains in the needle so they are less likely to move.

To make the cloud.with 2 strands of white and a 5mm hook
ch6
1. hdc 3 times in the second chain from hook, sl st in the next chain, (hdc, dc, dc, hdc) in the next chain, sl st into the last chain, now working on the opposite side of the chains, sc in all 4 chains.
2. ch1 and turn, (dc, dc, hdc) in the second stitch, sl st, (hdc twice, sl st) in the last. End off leaving a tail to sew to wrap.

Attach the cloud to the wrap. Check to make sure all ends are weaved in and thats it, your done!

Saturday, July 27, 2013

I have another sanitary wallet for you today. Still a few more to come, but I think now Ive covered this area pretty successfully. If you have any requests for more, by all means shoot me an email at myshellecole@gmail.com and Ill do my best!

Today's wallet is super easy back and forth stitches and great for using up off bits of yarn.

Friday, July 26, 2013

Another very simple preemie beanie for you today. Not too much different from the last one, but still just as easy and the outcome looks great. This pattern is great for using up leftover variegated yarns in the stripe.

Single Stripe Beanie
ch does not count as a stitch. Join is to the top of the first stitch, not the chain.

You will need
DK (8ply) yarn in a main and a contrasting colour.
5mm hook

34 weeksWith main colourStart with a magic ring, alternatively you can ch3 and join to make a loop.
R1: ch3, dc 10 times, join
R2: ch2, 2dc in each stitch around, join.
R3: ch3, *2dc, 1dc* repeat around, join
R4-6: ch3, dc in each stitch around, joinDrop the main colour and pick up contrasting colour (or join if you prefer that way)
R7: ch3, dc in each stitch around, join.Drop contrasting colour and pick main colour back up.
R8: ch3, dc in each stitch around, join.

36 weeksWith main colourStart with a magic ring, alternatively you can ch3 and join to make a loop.
R1: ch3, dc 12 times, join
R2: ch2, 2dc in each stitch around, join.
R3: ch3, *2dc, 1dc* repeat around, join
R4-6: ch3, dc in each stitch around, joinDrop the main colour and pick up contrasting colour (or join if you prefer that way)
R7: ch3, dc in each stitch around, join.Drop contrasting colour and pick main colour back up.
R8: ch3, dc in each stitch around, join.

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Today I have a neat little bag for tampon storage (or for anything else). Something a bit different from the wallets. This little bag features a drawstring and a knit look stitch, and depending on your hook size can hold from 4-8 tampons. I used Carefree.

You will need
3mm hook (4mm hook for medium sized bag, 5mm for large)
DK (8ply) weight yarn in main colour and a small amount of contrasting colour.

R4+: hdc in the 3rd loop (the back back loop) of each stitch around, this pushes the front two loops forward and creates a knit look. Do not join, just continue around until the piece measures 5-6cm long. sl st in the next stitch.

R5: ch2, dc in each stitch around, join.
R6: Repeat R5

End off, weave in all ends.

In a contrasting colour chain 70. Weave the tie in and out of every second stitch on R5.

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Another instalment of the sanitary cozies. This one looks a little like a mini handbag (you could always attach handles) and will hold 2 thick pads (or a heap of small ones). It takes a little longer then some of the other ones but its well worth the effort.

You will need:
3mm hook
4mm Hook
DK (8ply) yarn in 2 colours for the top flap, and 1 colour for the bag.

With a 3mm hook:
R1: ch8, join to form a loop, ch2, dc 23 times in the loop, join to top of ch2
R2: ch2, dc in the next 2 stitches, ch3, *dc in the next 3 stitches, ch 2* Repeat around, join.

change colour
R3: sl st in any ch3 space and sc, *ch4, hdc3tg, ch4, sc in the next ch3 space* repeat around ending with a sl st to the first sc.

Finish off weaving in all ends.

With main colour and a 4mm hook:
ch21
R1: hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and each across to the second last ch, 2hdc in the last chain, then on the opposite side, working in the same chains, hdc in each ch back to the start, join.
R2-8: ch2, hdc around, join. (40)
R9: ch2, *hdc in the next 3 stitches, hdc2tg* Repeat around.
R10: ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join
R11: ch2, *hdc in the next 3 stitches, hdc2tg* Repeat around, join

End off main colour and weave in all ends.

Position the doily flap over the top opening so that the centre of the circle is over the centre of the opening. Sew the back side of the flap to the wallet. Leave the other side free. Attach button and your done!

Friday, July 19, 2013

No sanitary patterns today (tomorrow, promise!) today I have a really easy beanie for either 34 or 36 weeks gestation bubs. They take only 9 rounds to complete and the colour combinations are endless. It is fast to whip up and can be done in under half an hour.

This is based on my basic pattern, which Ill upload on Monday. I'll have a few variations and colour changes for it but they will all be listed individually so it is easier for beginners to follow the pattern. I'm all for simple *grins*

You will need:
5mm hook
DK (8ply) yarn in 3 colours. A for the main, B for the top and bottom stripe and C for the middle stripe.
Needle to weave in ends.

ch does not count. Join is to the top of the first stitch, not the chain.

Sunday, July 14, 2013

It is a rainy horrible cold day here in Tasmania today so to make things a little nicer and brighter, I have a new pattern for you all.

This little doll stands around 7 inches tall, hair included and is the perfect size for carting around. Aside from her arms, the rest of her is one piece, which lessens the risk of parts falling off, and makes it easier because seriously, I hate sewing parts on parts!

The most important thing to remember with this pattern is to stuff it as you go, and make sure you stuff the neck especially tight (you could even pop a piece of pipe cleaner in there) because once you put the hair on, the head gains a bit of weight.

I have instructions for the doll, one wig and a dress. I'll add some more as time allows. Doll is made in continual rounds, place marker to keep track of rounds.

PLEASE NOTE: this has NOT been tested. If you run into any mistakes, hiccups or typos by all means email me or leave a comment so I can check it out. Cheers!

You will need:
3mm hook
dk weight yarn in body colour, hair colour and dress colour.
small amount of red yarn or cotton for the mouth
stuffing
sewing needle
2 safety eyes (you can embroider then on if you like)
1 button for the dress
stitch markerHead, Torso and Legs
R1: ch2, sc 6 times in the first ch, place marker – 6 stitches
R2: 2sc in each stitch (12)
R3: *1sc in the first stitch, then 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat (18)
R4: *1sc in the next 2 stitches, then 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat(24)
R5-7: 1sc in each stitch around
R6: *sc in the first 2 stitches, sc2tg in the next*, repeat (18)
R7: *sc in the first stitch, sc2tg*, repeat (12)

insert eyes between round 4-5

R8: sc2tg around (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around
R10: Repeat R9
R11: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
R12: *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat around (18)
R13-20: sc in each stitch around

sc 2. When pressed flat (eyes facing up) your last stitch should be in the centre, we are going to make legs. (if your stitch is not centred then sc until it is.

R21: sc9, then skip 9 and sc into the next stitch, this is the start of your leg (9)
R22-30: sc in each stitch around (9)
R31: sc in the first stitch, sc2tg 4 times (5)

Finish off, leaving along end. Weave the end in and out of the last 5 stitches and pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Join yarn with a slst to an un-worked stitch on R20, sc in the same stitch and the next 8 (9)
Continue on as for first leg, from R22.

End the same as for first leg.

Stitch on a mouth.

Arms x 2
R1: ch2, sc 5 times in the 1st chain (5)
R2-7: sc in each stitch around (5)
R8: sc in the first 2 stitches, sc twice in the next stitch, sc in the last 2 stitches (6)
R9: sc in each stitch around (6)
End off leaving a long tail.
Gather the end closed like you did for the legs.

Make a second arm, only this time when you gather the end closed, weave the end in. We'll use the tie from the first arm to attach the both of them

Place the arms on the side of the dolls "shoulders" and using the long end from the first arm and a long sewing needle, sew right through the dolls body and out the other side, passing through the second arm. Go back and forth a few times to secure the arms. Finish off and weave in ends.

Wig Cap All stitches are done in the back loops only
R1: ch2, sc 8 times in the first stitch (8)
R2: 2sc in each stitch around (16)
R3: *sc in the first stitch, 2sc in the next stitch* repeat around (24)
R4-7: sc in each stitch around

Position the cap on the dolls head so the back sits at the nape of the neck and the top gives a nice hair line.
For the pony tail look I simply cut lengths of yarn roughly 13-14 inches long, and taking 2 at a time, looped them through each stitch around the outside edge of the wig cap. Every 3rd one I added a strand of another colour to give the doll streaks in her hair. Then I pulled the hair back into a pony tail, tied it off and trimmed the hair to length.For a better visual on how to do this, I highly recommend THIS TUTORIAL

Dress
R1: ch25, sc in the 2nd chain from hook, sc in the next 3 chains, ch4, skip 4, sc in the next 8 chains, ch4, skip 4, sc in the last 4
R2: ch1, turn, sc in the first 4, sc 5 times in the ch4 gap, sc in the next 8, sc 5 times in the last ch4 gap, sc in the last 4 stitches
R3: ch2, turn, 2hdc in the first, hdc in the next 10, 2hdc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 5, 2hdc in the next hook, hdc in the next 8, 2hdc in the last stitch
R4-6: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across
R7: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across
R8: ch3, turn, 3dc in each stitch across (this creates a ruffle edge)

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Today I have another pattern for you, that is a simple and easy one to make! It is a tampon wallet. Ok its not as exciting as some other things, but it is cute, handy and useful!Ive been whipping these up for Angels for the forgotten for their crisis care packages (you can read more about it HERE )

They hold 5 regular or super tampons (6 if you carry the mini variety)

I have a few more designs in the works too so keep an eye out for them, as well as some for pads and liners.

tr = triple crochet

You will need

5mm hook

DK (8ply) yarn in main and contrasting colours

1 button

1. ch12

2. hdc 2nd ch from hook and each to the second last chain and 2 in the last chain,

on the opposite side to the hdc's you have just made hdc in each ch across and 1 in the very end, join. (22)

3. ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.

4. repeat round 3

5. Drop the main colour and change to a contrasting colour

ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

6. Drop contrasting colour and pick up main colour

ch1, sc in each stitch around, join

7. Drop main colour and pick up contrasting colour

ch1, sc in each stitch around, join

8. Drop contrasting colour and end it off. Pick up main colour.

ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.

sl st in the next 2 stitches, you should be on the back side of the pouch, We'll be making the flap now

10. ch2, hdc in the same stitch and the next 11

11. ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across

12. ch1, turn, sc2tg, hdc2tg, dc in the next, dc and tr in the next stitch, tr and dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, hdc2tg, sc2tg.

Saturday, July 6, 2013

Im sure by now everyone is aware of the release of Despicable Me 2! We havn't seen it yet, as a family of 5 with a fixed income a cinema visit just isn't in the budget and we'll wait for DVD release. We do however have the first one and it is a firm favourite with both the adults and the kids in the family.

To celebrate the new release, and because well lets face it, they are just adorable, I have worked up a pattern to make a mini snug Minion! They are so fun, so adorable and so darn funny! So now you can make your own lovable minion to snuggle with!

To keep up to date with new pattern releases, you can follow me on FACEBOOK

You will need:
3mm hook
5mm hook
DK weight (thats 8ply to us Aussies) yarn in yellow and blue, plus small scraps of black, white and grey
sewing needle
small amount of stuffing.

Starting with your 3mm hook and yellow yarn:

R1: ch2, sc 6 times in the first ch, place marker – 6 stitches
R2: 2sc in each stitch (12)
R3: 1sc in the first stitch, then 2sc in the next stitch, repeat (18)
R4: 1sc in the next 2 stitches, then 2sc in the next stitch, repeat(24)
R5-9: 1sc in each stitch around
R10: sc in the first 2 stitches, sc2tg in the next, repeat (18)
R11: sc in the first stitch, sc2tg, repeat (12)

Add some stuffing

R8: sc2tg around, back loops only.

End off leaving long tail. Stuff head firmly. Thread the end in and out of the last 6 stitches and pull tight to gather, sew in ends.

Take 4 6inch strands of black and loop them through the top of the head to make hair.

Trim down to desired size.

Eye:
With brown
ch2, sc 6 times in the first chain, join. End Brown

With white
join with a slst and ch2, hdc in the same stitch, 2hdc in each remaining stitch around (12 total, counting the chain) End white.

With grey
join with a sl st and ch1, sc in the same stitch, sc in the next stitch, *2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch*repeat around, join. End grey leaving a long tail for sewing on to head.

Black strap
ch25, hdc in the second ch from hook and each across. End off leaving a long tail for sewing to head.

Sew the black strap around the head. It won't quite meet.
Sew the eye over the gap where the strap doesn't meet.
Embroider on a mouth.

Adding the blanket

For anyone unfamiliar with the granny square: Each 3dc cluster from R3 on is completed in the ch1 space from the previous round, and corners are in the ch2 spaces from the previous round.

R1: With blue, turn head upside down and join with a sl st to one of the unworked stitches from head R8. ch1 and sc in the same stitch and the remaining 11 unworked loops, join.

Change to a 5.5mm hook

R2: ch3, dc twice in the same stitch, ch2, dc 3 more times in the same stitch, *ch1, skip 2 stitches, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in the next stitch* Repeat twice more to complete the remaining 2 corners.

R3: sl st across to the next corner (the ch2 space) and ch3, (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in the same corner, *ch1, in the next ch1 space do 3dc, ch1, in the corner do (3dc, ch2, 3dc)* Repeat for the last 2 corners, join.

End blue. Join yellow in any corner with a sl st.

R4:ch3, (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in the same corner, *ch1, in the next TWO ch1 spaces **3dc, ch1**, in the corner do (3dc, ch2, 3dc)* Repeat for the last 2 corners, join.

End yellow, join blue in any corner with a sl st

R5: ch3, (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in the same corner, *ch1, in the next THREE ch1 spaces **3dc, ch1**, in the corner do (3dc, ch2, 3dc)* Repeat for the last 2 corners, join.

R5: sl st across to the next corner (the ch2 space) and ch3, (2dc, ch2, 3dc) in the same corner, *ch1, in the next FOUR ch1 spaces **3dc, ch1**, in the corner do (3dc, ch2, 3dc)* Repeat for the last 2 corners, join.

All my patterns are written in AMERICAN terms. If you need help translating that to UK terms please leave a comment.

TERMS OF USE:

All of my patterns are free to use. You can sell what you make.

You may NOT redistribute any of my patterns in part or in whole.

This means you can not email the patterns, upload them anywhere on the Internet or re-blog them. I take issues of theft seriously and anyone found redistributing my patterns will have legal action taken.

You CAN link to the patterns, and if you are linking to them, I am more then happy for you to use one of the photographs that corresponds with the pattern itself.

You are also welcome to print the patterns out for personal use.

Credit where Credit is due

Everything on my blog is offered for use, however I am a firm believer of credit where credit is due.

Please don't pass something from this blog off as your own work. That's not cool.