The Sith Lord Detachment defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, items listed under "For level two certification" are recommended features that will greatly improve the quality of the costume. These items are not required for 501st membership, but are highly recommended. Items listed under "For level three certification" are some of the highest level accuracy features for those who strive to be screen accurate. These items are also not required for 501st membership.

Also note that these two additional "certification levels" DO NOT correspond to the Advanced Standards program of the Sith Lord Detachment, and you are encouraged to visit the Sith Lord Detachment Forum for more information.

All uses of the term silver in this document imply a machined aluminum look.

Weathered or used aspects referred to in text, may not necessarily be depicted in photos.

Click pictures to enlarge and view details; the text only highlights the key aspects of each component.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type.

Any uncertainties or questionable aspects of the submitted costume should be brought to the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the legion forum.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

This document is a Work In Progress being used to restructure the SLD CRL. It should not be used for approval purposes.

DomeFor 501st approval:

The dome is gloss black.

There is neither an indentation nor a sharp point in the center of the dome brow between the eyes of the mask.

Version comparison and details.

Allowed (but not recommended): The center of the dome brow may contain a thumb-sized indentation.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The black paint used on the dome should match that used on the face mask and the chest armor.

The brow of the dome should sit slightly above the brows of the mask, contouring to them and allowing them to be fully visible.

The thickness of the dome (at least the exposed edges) should be approximately 0.375 inches.

The contour of the front edge of the dome should increase gradually.

When viewed from the front, the horizontal distance from each bottom edge of the dome to each tusk should be less than the distance from tusk to tusk.

When viewed from the side, the bottom of the dome should slope downward to the back in order to mostly hide the back edge of the neck of the face mask.

When the wearer looks up such that the lower tubes on the sides of the mask are horizontal, the very back of the dome should almost be touching or flush with the cape.

Face MaskFor 501st approval:

The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.

The face mask is asymmetrical: the wearer's right side of the mask is higher than the left.

The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey (eyes are not visible behind lenses).

The lower mouth vent is triangular with rounded corners, and is roughly the size of the upper mouth vent.

Large, grey, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further.

The tusks are silver, and have pointed (conical) tips.

There is not a substantial gap between the neck of the face mask and the top of the chest armor.

No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask).

Version comparison and details.

Allowed (but not recommended): The tusks may have rounded (hemispherical) tips.

Allowed (but not recommended): A neck brace may be worn with the face mask as long as it is not visible when viewing the wearer from the front.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The lenses should be tinted amber with NO reddish hue.

The black and grey paints used on the face mask should match that used on the dome and the chest armor.

All features of the face mask (corners, edges, etc.) should have a sharp, crisp, and non-rounded look to them.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The paint scheme pattern should match the schematic linked above.

The shape of the tusks should closely resemble the ones in the supplemental photo linked above.

When the wearer looks slightly downward, the neck of the face mask should sit on the top end of the cape hook and just above the cape chain thus still allowing the chain to fully show.

Additional Movie Note: The tusks used in the film were metal.

BalaclavaFor 501st approval:

A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide the following features: the wearer's mouth which could be seen through the mouth and chin vents, the wearer's neck which could be seen under and around the neck of the mask (especially during movement of the head), and the back of the wearer's neck/head which could be seen from the back at a low angle underneath the dome.

While the balaclava is labeled as "required" merely because it is the simplest way to ensure that none of the features listed above are visible when the wearer is in full costume as well as to keep the wearer's head cool, any other items or methods that achieve the same result may be used instead of an actual balaclava.

CapeFor 501st approval:

The cape is made of black wool (or wool-like material), floor length, and lined with black satin.

The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material), and is approximately 1.5 inches in width.

The cape is held closed with a cape chain.

The front of the cape collar is visible and not pulled under the mask thus allowing the cape chain to show.

There is no visible cape chain attachment device showing on the collar when in full costume.

The cape is constructed large enough to ensure that the edges drape over a majority of each shoulder bell.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The cape should be made of wool and the cape collar should be made of leather.

The cape collar should not be predominantly visible in full costume when viewing the wearer from behind.

The edges of the cape should drape over the front corners of the chest armor thus hiding the shoulder bells while the wearer's arms are at his/her side; the edges should not drape so far inward that they overlap onto the outermost black raised sections.

Cape ChainFor 501st approval:

The cape chain is plastic, has rectangular/oblong links, and is dark grey in color.

Links are approximately 0.75 inches in length.

It is positioned such that there is an equal length of chain on either side of the cape hook.

Version comparison and placement details.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The cape chain should be fastened to the underside of the collar (in the vertical middle and not at the very end).

An odd number of cape chain links should show (more specifically five or seven) and it should be hooked onto the cape hook on the chest armor via the center of the middle link.

The cape chain should contour to the curve of the neck opening of the chest armor.

Chest ArmorFor 501st approval:

The chest armor is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey.

The centermost raised section is grey, and all other raised sections are black.

The shoulder bells are entirely black, and are each attached to the chest armor via a rigid strap(s) or a hinge.

There is a visible thin cape hook on the vertical center line of the chest armor and it is located approximately 1.0 inch down from the top of the chest armor.

The color of the hook is either the same grey as used on the armor or an aged bronze/brass. The length of the hook is approximately 0.875 inches but no longer than 1 inch.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match that used on the dome and the face mask.

The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not protrude substantially through the cape, and 3) that the sides of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells meet nearly flush with each other.

Additional Movie Note: During filming, the paint used on the cape hook started to wear off due to the cape chain. Depending on the scene the cape hook ranges anywhere from being completely painted to only the lower half being painted exposing the bronze/brass color of the cape hook at the top.

Inner RobeFor 501st approval:

The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape.

It is approximately ankle length, and is worn over the codpiece but under the chest armor and belt.

The inner robe is positioned such that the front edges taper inward as they go down to belt level, but the inner robe does not touch the chestbox. The edges approximately line up with inside edges of the belt boxes at belt level.

There are three pleats on each side of the inner robe that begin near and run parallel to the front edges. The pleats end at the underside of the belt but do not extend below the belt itself.

The pleats are no more than 1.5 inches apart from each other, and begin no more than 1.5 inches from the front edge of the robe.

Version comparison and details.

Allowed (but not recommended): The side seams may be open from the belt down if the inner robe is not full enough to properly drape down the front of the wearer below the belt.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The inner robe should be secured firmly by the belt so that it is reasonably taut between the belt and chest armor.

The pleats should be sewn only at belt level thus being hidden by the belt when in full costume. They should be approximately 1 inch apart. The resulting folds should open to the front and be ironed so they extend all the way under the chest armor. However, to ensure the folds stay in place, corresponding pleats can be added towards the top of the inner robe such that they are covered by the chest armor. No stitching should be visible in full costume. View

ChestboxFor 501st approval:

The chestbox is approximately 6.75 inches in height and width, semi-gloss black, and worn right below the chest armor.

The black leather (or leather-like material) straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, attach at the top and sides of the chestbox, and are approximately 1 inch wide.

The face (flat surface on which all of the accessories are mounted) of the chestbox consists of:

Two silver rods on each side which are each bracketed at the top and bottom.

At the top: two black brackets that have an upside down “U” shaped cutout on the lower inner half of each bracket.

At the bottom: two bronze colored brackets that each bear a finned design.

Three vertically stacked gray/silver coin slots on the wearer's right. The center cutout of each coin slot contains a semi-translucent red material that lights up in a sequence. The area adjacent to these cutouts is painted black.

A blue colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left and are each mounted in a raised black area slightly larger than the panels themselves. These panels are unlit.

Along the bottom are four black rocker switches which are connected along the bottom. The centers of the forward face are colored grey except the wearer's left rocker which is red.

Small silver(grey/chrome) switches are between each outer rocker set, and between the two colored panels (three total).

Exotic (not aurebesh) text appears below each of the coin slots.

Version comparison and details.

Allowed (but not recommended): The top black brackets may have right-side-up "U" shaped cutouts on the upper inner half of the bracket similar to the ESB top black brackets.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

In terms of proportional width, the chestbox should extend just past the center-most black sections of the chest armor.

The straps should be made of leather.

The coin slots should not blink too rapidly (strobe) nor stay lit for more than a couple of seconds.

Only the two silver switches between the rockers should resemble each another. All should have more of a chrome appearance as opposed to a machined aluminum appearance.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The face of the chestbox should be smaller than the ANH/ESB versions because the sides have a larger radius of curvature, thus making the chestbox taller (when laid on its back) than the other versions.

There should be a flange (lip) at the base of each coin slot. The lip should be painted black (same as the chestbox), and should either be recessed to be flush with the face of the chestbox, or no more than 0.0625 inches in thickness if not recessed.

The black brackets should mirror image one another.

The bronze brackets should be identical (the wearer's right edge of each bracket slightly protrudes towards the top of the chestbox).

Additional Movie Notes: In the film, the chestbox was slightly weathered, the straps were slightly aged, the two silver rods and three silver switches were metal, and the gray/silver coin slots were not metal.

BodysuitFor 501st approval:

The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced approximately one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs.

A one, two, or three piece suit is acceptable.

An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The body suit should be made of leather.

It should have a wrinkled/worn appearance.

Additional Note: The body suit in the film was constructed in three pieces: a top with only the sleeves quilted, a vest, and pants.

The upper surface is quilted in lines spaced approximately one inch apart which run parallel to the arm and starts just behind the knuckles.

The palm side has no quilted lines.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The gloves should be made of leather (more specifically, it should match the leather of the body suit).

The gloves should flare out on the outside edge towards the opening.

There should be six rectangular sections created by the quilted lines on the upper surface; they are not of uniform width (the outer sections are smaller than the middle sections.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The quilted lines should be very finely stitched, and the upper surface should be padded minimally.

The quilted lines in the flared section are stitched as a "V" turning the sixth (outermost) section into a "Y".

The stitching on the gloves, with the exception of the quilted lines, should be external.

The top and bottom of each glove should not be directly sewn together in the flared section; a gusset should adjoin them starting at the wrist bone. It should be approximately two inches in width at the end opening of each glove.

Each glove should be constructed with three fourchettes-one between each set of fingers.

BeltFor 501st approval:

The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is approximately slightly smaller than 2 inches wide.

To the wearer’s left of the buckle, there is a metallic snap on the horizontal centerline of the belt which is approximately 0.5 inches in diameter, and no more than 1 inch away from the buckle.

The belt is worn such that the bottom side of the belt and the top side of the codpiece are touching; as a result, the portions of the belt buckle and belt boxes that are below the belt in fact sit on the face of the codpiece. The belt itself does not overlap onto the face of the codpiece.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The belt should be made of leather.

The belt should have incised lines 0.125 inches from the top and bottom.

There should be two punched holes to the wearer's right of the buckle on the horizontal centerline of the belt.

Additional Movie Note: In the film, the belt was secured in the front as the buckle was functional.

Belt BuckleFor 501st approval:

The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular. It is approximately 4.25 inches wide by 3.0 inches tall.

The second layer is silver and in the shape of a "D."

There are five progressively smaller rounded-edge elongated cutouts in a triangular formation on the wearer's right.

The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D."

Version comparison and details.

Allowed: The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle may have square edges.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The base layer of the buckle should not be gloss black.

Additional Movie Notes: The buckle in the film was metal and slightly weathered around the edges.

Belt BoxesFor 501st approval:

The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt approximately one and one-half to two inches from the buckle, and mirror image one another. They are approximately 4.5 inches wide by 3.5 inches tall and 2.0 inches deep.

The back side of each box is removable and meets flush with the rest of the box.

a cylindrical opaque red light set in a very small chrome bezel (ring),

and six silver posts with smooth, not knurled, sides in two vertical columns of three.

All lights are constantly lit.

Version comparison and details.

Allowed (but not recommended): The red light may be a small domed opaque light, and may also be set in very noticeable chrome bezel. The red light may also not contain any bezel at the base. The six silver posts may have straight-line knurling around the sides.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The belt box should be tapered: the back face should be larger than the front face.

Additional Notes: The belt boxes in the film were metal. Depending on the scene in the film, the belt boxes range from being un-weathered to slightly weathered. The chrome bezel is very thin and extends approximately one-eighth to one-fourth the height of the red light, and therefore is not very noticeable when the red light is on, giving the illusion that it is not there.

Lightsaber HookFor 501st approval:

The lightsaber hook is silver and held to the backside of the belt by two silver rivets (which can be located towards the bottom or top of the belt).

It is mounted on the backside of the wearer's left hip.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

The lightsaber hook should not have a mirrored finished and should resemble the design shown.

Additional Movie Notes: The lightsaber hook in the film was metal. It was also mounted significantly farther back on the belt than the ANH/ESB version; in fact, due to the lighting in the movie, the lightsaber is only partially seen hanging from the belt in a few scenes.

LightsaberFor 501st approval:

The lightsaber resembles the one pictured (a Master Replicas is most accurate but a custom built one based on the MPP Microflash or the Heiland Synchronar 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in the film is also acceptable).

The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The lightsaber should be capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing upwards (detachable blade or no blade).

The lightsaber should be of 1:1 scale to the lightsaber used in the film as pictured.

Additional Movie Note: The lightsaber in the film was slightly weathered.

CodpieceFor 501st approval:

The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material).

It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt (the top of the codpiece and the bottom of the belt are flush, but do not overlap), and under the inner robe.

It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips.

In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The codpiece should be made of leather, have a wrinkled/worn appearance, and not be thicker than 1 inch.

The area of the codpiece under the belt boxes should be no taller than one-third of the area under the belt buckle.

A smoother piece of leather (compared to that of rest of the codpiece) should seemingly emerge from the backside at mid-height and gradually become more noticeable as it overlaps the bottom front of the codpiece.

Shin GuardsFor 501st approval:

The shin guards are gloss black.

Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half the leg when viewed from the side.

The knee is shaped like a cut diamond.

Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three on each side).

On each side of the raised center section, long "U" shaped cutout's start at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth.

The shin guards are attached by at lease two straps that go around the boot.

Version comparison and details.

For Advanced Status certification (mandatory upgrade):

Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific).

The right shin guard is taller than the left.

On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.

BootsFor 501st approval:

The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a medium gloss shine, lace-less, and free of any visible adornments.

They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance.

There is no noticeable zipper in full costume.

The sole in the front does not exceed 0.75 inches in thickness and the heel does not exceed two inches in thickness.

Note: The strap/buckle at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot.

For Advanced Status certification (optional upgrade):

The boots should be made of leather.

The sole in the front should not exceed 0.5 inches and the heel should not exceed 1.5 inches.

Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.

Revised by LDR 10-20-2014

This document and all of the images within were created by and are the property of the 501st Legion. All other uses are prohibited.