You wouldn't happen to have a part number for those b15 roller lifters and dual guides? I think I'm going to be going with tomei 260 with springs.

The dealer will have the lifters, just ask them. Or google

Dual guides (as answered below) are just simply grinding the one side of the rocker to fit into the guide track. This has been heavily documented on the FWD forums (look up what Miko says)

You'll be much happier with JWT S3 or S4 cams, and not buying springs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mewantkouki

Is anyone using the newer HKS step 1's? 22002-AN023 & 22002-AN024

256 deg duration 11.5mm lift for both
I'm not sure of the lobe separation.
Intake cam is VTC compatible

Good cams, but obviously soft. Nice for someone content with a lower power T28 setup and just driving it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg

This can be done at home if you have the proper wheel grinder.
Really simple mod to do your self

This is what I do. Use a belt sander. Not rocket science for sure

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tyler_240

My motor came with an ISIS exh mani and i have all of thhe exh hangers and it has not cracked yet....i wrapped it up in some DEI titanium and have nismo mounts...the problem i have with the manifold are the way the runners merge at the collector..i noticed other more popular bottom mounts have what seems to be better r&d...i would use the stock manifold personally...the bottom mount tubulars put off alot of heat and the coupler going to the compressor outlet will get damaged if you dont at least wrap the manifold or route your IC piping differently...

The stock manifold has been proven to make the most power, while providing the best response. We modify them with external wastegates for a awesomely safe and power setup that won't bust up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by running_sideways

everything i added up

I'd suggest getting 2871r with the 3" inlet / 56 trim. Not that the two bolt is bad, but the 3" is better, and just as easy to work with (if not easier).

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Was done on a mustang dyno that they guesstimate is roughly 10% off from what a dynojet would have shown. Theyre going to run a car on this dyno and then take it to a dynojet and see what difference it makes.

I've asked about this before but would like to again based on a discussion I recently had.

I'm using an electronic boost controller, internal WG on a stock SR with the 2871, I reach 15 psi at 4200 RPM. A friend of mine says he hits 20 psi at 3700 psi ( stock SR with poncams) and it's because he did the CodyAce external WG mod.

Is this possible? I know an external WG allows for better boost control below 15psi and above 20, but can it really help improve spool that much?

I've asked about this before but would like to again based on a discussion I recently had.

I'm using an electronic boost controller, internal WG on a stock SR with the 2871, I reach 15 psi at 4200 RPM. A friend of mine says he hits 20 psi at 3700 psi ( stock SR with poncams) and it's because he did the CodyAce external WG mod.

Is this possible? I know an external WG allows for better boost control below 15psi and above 20, but can it really help improve spool that much?

Internal hate can definitely effect spool. Internal gates can be blown open and basically suck.

Is this possible? I know an external WG allows for better boost control below 15psi and above 20, but can it really help improve spool that much?

Yes, I reach full boost of 20psi within1000rpm from whatever rpm I'm at.
I usually log the run 4th gear 2500rpm cruise zero or full vac and full throttle.
Logged from the ecu. Thats why I say withing a 1000rpm from whatever rpm I start from.

Hey people, (keeping it gender neutral lol)
I have a built up sr w/ forged internals, bc cams, freddy intake mani, megan exhaust mani... a few others things as well. motor is not in car yet and I still need to acquire some other parts.

My question is, I have a reflashed ecu set up for 2871 turbo and 720cc injectors. My goal for the car is around 400 reliable horsepower on a set up I can really beat on. I don't have the turbo or injectors yet and I'm wondering if I should get the 2871 and the 720s and use the ecu I have or just sell the ecu and go with a different turbo and engine manigment system. Of course if I went with a totally new turbo set up it would delay my compleation of the car a bit well I save for the new management. What do some of you think, should I go 2871 on the reflashed or just scrap it?

Hey people, (keeping it gender neutral lol)
I have a built up sr w/ forged internals, bc cams, freddy intake mani, megan exhaust mani... a few others things as well. motor is not in car yet and I still need to acquire some other parts.

My question is, I have a reflashed ecu set up for 2871 turbo and 720cc injectors. My goal for the car is around 400 reliable horsepower on a set up I can really beat on. I don't have the turbo or injectors yet and I'm wondering if I should get the 2871 and the 720s and use the ecu I have or just sell the ecu and go with a different turbo and engine manigment system. Of course if I went with a totally new turbo set up it would delay my compleation of the car a bit well I save for the new management. What do some of you think, should I go 2871 on the reflashed or just scrap it?

Don't over think this too much. 400hp is not a hp goal that requires over thinking. Only thing I would suggest is going with top feed 1000's. But it's not critical.

A simple bolt on T2 20g will get you 400hp also. Won't take very much to get to that hp level.

there is nothing wrong with enjoying the build. however, we sometimes have to remind ourselves that the build is only one part of the puzzle, and that ultimately - enjoying and driving the car is the number one priority.

You've got some Dracula teeth going on there, could be detonation, spark or fuel idk.
Also doesn't look like straight 17psi maybe wastegate or boost controller creeped.
if this is a tune run you should have more than 1 dyno done, if its a power pull 350hp should have been closer. iyam
I would still try to find out what those dips are.
If you're happy it doesn't matter!

I'll ask the tuner about them. Car seems to run fairly rich though. The pull was done on a mustang dyno also.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ixfxi

there is nothing wrong with enjoying the build. however, we sometimes have to remind ourselves that the build is only one part of the puzzle, and that ultimately - enjoying and driving the car is the number one priority.

I don't want to spoon feed you, but head over to turbobygarrett, compare the turbos wheel size and compressor maps and ratings from garrett and learn yourself some knowledge.

You won't spoon feed me a damn thing, I already know the answer. Compressor maps and real world dyno graphs/actual et's are not the same. And you won't show me anything that proves that turbo "blows" the other out of the water.

You won't spoon feed me a damn thing, I already know the answer. Compressor maps and real world dyno graphs/actual et's are not the same. And you won't show me anything that proves that turbo "blows" the other out of the water.

Asking me for "proof" is asking me to spoon feed you. you know theres a 35 pg thread on the gtx2867 with users upgrading from a 2871, with #'s and graphs and all the shit you want to be spoon fed. If you used your own fingers to find it you wouldn't even be replying. It's not rocket science to figure out which is better. 2 turbos with nearly identical turbine sides, while one compressor side out flows and is much more efficient than the other.

Asking me for "proof" is asking me to spoon feed you. you know theres a 35 pg thread on the gtx2867 with users upgrading from a 2871, with #'s and graphs and all the shit you want to be spoon fed. If you used your own fingers to find it you wouldn't even be replying. It's not rocket science to figure out which is better. 2 turbos with nearly identical turbine sides, while one compressor side out flows and is much more efficient than the other.

eat your heart out.

LOL. I don't think you know what "blows" away means.
I'm seriously not waiting for you to show me anything. Because you won't and I alr day know that. I've been doing this too long and have seen gt vs GTX tests done first hand. And the GTX will simply come on a little quicker. Like I said you won't spoon feed me a damn thing. And I will put money and dyno time on it. Believe that.
But you keep believing this 11 blade GTX is some great turbo.

What should I set my rev limiter to? Will be a soft limiter (fuel cut)

JWT S4 cams

Since that's all you have valvetrain wise, you'd be okay at 7500. I've heard of running 8000 on stock springs but I wouldn't do it myself. The JWT S4s themselves will make power to 9k if you have the supporting valvetrain though.

Throw in dual guides and call it a day.
Maybe b15 roller lifters if you feel froggy.

Same here I've always used a bench grinder or belt sander, takes like 20 minutes to do a whole set.

Cody have you ever matched the flat shim thickness when doing dual guides? By either machining the guide shims to match the thickness of each flat shim it's replacing. Or you can order Tomei guide shims in different thicknesses even. I've been considering doing this on my own engine just to be sure the lash is super precise. However every dual guide mod I've done on friends/customer sr20's I've always just thrown in the guide shims like usual with no problems.

I am a few weeks off from taking my car down to John Kerr to get tuned. I am super excited to finally get it finished up here in the next few weeks. Just to build the hype for myself what numbers should i be expecting with the following set up?

I got My redtop tuned last april. This was 15-16 psi with s3 cams and t28 .64 style GT2871r tuned with Nistune.
The power seems low to me, I ended up with only 11 degress of timing through the mid range and climbing to 13-14 degrees up top.

Unfortunately my flex fuel sensor went bad so we had to do two different maps.

On low boost I made 330 on 93. On e85 we got to about 17psi and made 360/325 when we turned the boost up the clutch spun. Going to be heading back in the spring with a new clutch and flex fuel sensor to max out the boost on e85.

From the butt dyno and comparing to my last 300 hp sr20 s13, i'd say i am making between 340-360 whp at 16 psi on 91 pump gas.
I run 100 octane through it every so often, i found it helps out with spool times on my turbo as on 91 it takes until about 3500 to fully spool, where its at about 3200 with 100 octane

ive just picked up a decent used one of these turbos. I plan on stripping it down to check its all ok and wondered if you guys would recommend porting the wastegate hole in the exhaust housing??, its the smaller .6 that I have and from what I can remember they suffer from creep.

This is a bolt on 'get my car to work' so I can use it whilst I save up for a borgwarner exercise so im not interested in spending money on EWG's or fancy manifolds as I already have the hardware to get it on and running.

a customer of mine just made 390whp on his 2871R which was a T3 Skyline model *HKS GT-RS bolt on turbo* this was on his SR20DET S13 engine with our Midmount Exhaust Manifold we made for him. Ill try get some dyno charts off him.