The fuses in the driver's seat pedestal are for house systems that are not powered by the house batteries— such as the awning, sliding step, and probably the BIM as well.

Most of the fuses under the driver seat are for the Sprinter chassis though. I have three labeled for house systems and I believe they were F10, 11, and 12. Those are for the things that you mentioned.

By the way, I forgot to mention that on the first night of our recent roadtrip, I forgot to turn off the headlight when we stayed overnight at a hotel, and the chassis battery was completely depleted the next morning. However, at that time, the Monitor Display Panel still worked, and the house batteries were still showing full charges. I had to call AAA to jump start my chassis battery. I wondered if this had anything to do with the problems that developed a few days later. Maybe the connections to the battery isolator became loose when the AAA Technician tried to jump start the chassis battery? I am not too sure how to check the bolt for the connection to the battery isolater, but I will try to follow gmillerok1's instruction to check in his post above.

Thank you very much!

I just read on Page H-13 to H-14 of the 2011 AI Owner's manual, there is a statement: "NOTE: In the event the engine battery is depleted, Sprinter recommends using a trickle charge only when charging the battery. When jumping the engine battery do not use a power boost". I think the AAA Technician who came to jump start my AI's chassis battery did use a jump-start power booster. I think the jump-start process caused the issues I listed in my original post. Any suggestions to check or resolve the issues are greatly appreicated!

Hi Jerry! Thank you very much for your help! I followed the instruction from your earlier post to check on the 125AM fuse located in the AI's rear under the seat in the center area. From the rear of the AI, I opened the access panel. I saw two fuse boxes. One is labeled as "CHASSIS BAT.". I think this is the fuse you were talking about. The other fuse box is labeled as "INVERTER FUSE". There is a cable leading from the CHASSIS BAT fuse boxe to the Battery Separator, so I think I located the right fuse. It is a 125 AMP fuse as you described. The fuse has a clear plastic window and it did not appear to be broken. I used a multimeter and selected the "Continuity". I got the beeping sound so I think the fuse is good. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Hi Jerry! Thank you very much for your help! I followed the instruction from your earlier post to check on the 125AM fuse located in the AI's rear under the seat in the center area. From the rear of the AI, I opened the access panel. I saw two fuse boxes. One is labeled as "CHASSIS BAT.". I think this is the fuse you were talking about. The other fuse box is labeled as "INVERTER FUSE". There is a cable leading from the CHASSIS BAT fuse boxe to the Battery Separator, so I think I located the right fuse. It is a 125 AMP fuse as you described. The fuse has a clear plastic window and it did not appear to be broken. I used a multimeter and selected the "Continuity". I got the beeping sound so I think the fuse is good. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

If you check the voltage with the engine off, you should read whatever the coach battery voltage is on both sides of that fuse. If you only read it on the right side, that means the fuse is blown and you should be able to visually see that the fuse is blown as well.

If you start the motor and let it run a bit, you will hear something click back there and now the voltage on the left side should read around 14V, thus showing that the alternator is charging the batteries. If the fuse is blown, the right side will read whatever the coach battery voltage is. If the fuse is not blown, the right side will be the same as the left side of the fuse and will also read around 14V at the battery terminals as well.

One thing to remember is that the alternator will not charge the rear batteries if they are at full charge, thus the voltage on both sides of the fuse will be whatever the coach batteries level is. Since my batteries were at full charge, to check if the alternator was charging, I had to turn on the furnace for a bit to run down the batteries.

If you never get the 14V reading, then either the alternator is not working or the front fuse is blown. As I mentioned earlier, I do not know which fuse in the front is the correct one. If all else fails, call Airstream and they can tell you. They were very helpful when I was troubleshooting mine.

An update on the issues I reported... I finally took my AI to the Airstream Dealer in Orange County for repairing the electrical problem. They kept my AI for almost 2 weeks and finally found the problem and it was a blown fuse. The Service Advisor told me that the blown fuse is located near the chassis battery under the driver floor. When I tried to diagnose the problems, I did open the driver floor to inspect the chassis battery. However, I did not remember seeing a fuse near the chassis battery. Wonder if anyone has any experience replacing a fuse near the chassis? Anyway, all the electrical problems are fixed. The engine can charge the house batteries now. The tank status display and the battery voltage display are both working now. I think the problems I have were caused by the AAA Roadsde Assistance Technician who jumped start the chassis battery using a power booster. So, I would advise anyone who needs to jump start the chassis battery not to use a power booster. Finally I would like to thank everyone who replied to my post eariler! Thank you very much!

No. They did not mention the size of the blown fuse. The Service Advisor said if I remove the driver's floor to expose the chassis battery, I will easily see it.... I am not so sure because I checked on the chassis battery before but did not see any fuse.