The Only Haircut You'll Ever Need

You can experiment all you want, but a truly good cut has to fit your face shape. The Style Blog asked Shorty Maniace, Head Barber at F.S.C. Barber in New York City to explain the long and short of finding a perfect hairstyle for life.

1 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Steve Granitz/WireImage

Blockhead: The Leading-Man Cut

There's nothing wrong with a square jaw and an angular face. Just ask Brad Pitt and his cadre of female admirers. The right cut will soften the — for lack of a better word — corners of your head. In other words, you won't look like SpongeBob SquarePants. Maniace recommends leaving your hair up top longer than on the sides and adding in extra texture. "The hair on the sides should be at least an inch long, and about a finger's length up top to round out the block shape," he says.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

2 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by John Parra/WireImage

Egghead: Pompadour

Whether you're egg shaped or a conehead, the key is to leave length on top with added length around the parietal ridge — where your skull begins to curve toward the top. A squared off cut that levels the sides with the top — like a pompadour — will do the trick. "It gives the illusion that you have more of a heart or oval shaped face," says Maniace. "Don't shave your head, wear a Mohawk or a fauxhawk. They will just make you look bald and more like Humpty Frickin' Dumpty."

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

3 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin

Basketball: Flat Top

The trick to having a round face is to make it look more narrow with square shapes. Try a flattop. "You want to go tight on the sides and start to fade it around the temple into a blocky shape. Like a classic '50s flattop — not like Kid 'n' Play," says Maniace.

If you've got a triangular face (i.e. big forehead and a pointy chin), soften things up with a classic schoolboy cut — brushed forward, fuller on the sides with long bangs swept across the forehead. "You want it to be the same length from the parietal ridge to the ear with and a little texture," says Maniace. "Channel one of the Jonas brothers. You know the one — the twit with the hair that swoops down in front."

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

5 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Big Face: Shaved Head

Balance out your big face by giving it more real estate. "Keep your hair off your face so it won't draw attention to your large facial features," suggests Maniace. Shaving your head will grant your nose, mouth and eyes a little more room and pull them into better proportion. Longer styles with hair on your face will make your features look cramped.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

6 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Jo Hale/Getty Images

Little Face: Caesar

For small features or a little face, go for a Little Caesar: a messy, in-your-face look that covers your forehead will draw attention to your nose, mouth and eyes. "Cover as much skin as possible," says Maniace. "Don't lift the hair off your face or it will make your face look teeny tiny. Maybe try wearing some glasses?"

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

7 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Sean Gallup/Getty Images

Three-head: Shaved head with shaped hairline (a la Eminem)

A tiny forehead can cramp your style and your face. Shaving your head will give your face some breathing room. Ask a barber to sculpt a new hairline for you. Or, "Bleach out your hair or give it a lighter color," says Maniace. "I know a lot of guys are going to say 'Color my hair?!' Believe me, it will take emphasis off your hair and make it look thinner than it is."

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

8 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Frank Micelotta/Getty Images

Five-head: John Dillinger or a very close cropped shaved head

If you're forehead has grown (perhaps because of a receding hairline) to a "five head," your best bet is to let some hair flop onto your forehead. "Channel Johnny Depp as John Dillinger in Public Enemies," says Maniace. "Covering part of your forehead with hair will make it look smaller."

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

9 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin, Photo by Tim Graham/Getty Images

Stork: Prince Charles (side-part, fuller on the top and sides)

Why the long face? If you've got a long face and a big nose, opt for a style that's fuller on the top and sides. Channel a little Prince Charles — okay, he's not exactly a chick magnet — with a strong side part but leave the sides on the bushy side. "Keep bulk on the sides and top," says Maniace. "Stay away from super short cuts. If you shave your head or did a Mohawk, or faux hawk, you'll make your face look even longer."

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

10 of 10

Illustration by Eric Gillin

ET: Long dreads and a Rasta hat

Hide that head with long dreads and a Rasta hat. If that doesn't work for your look, Maniace says, "You're fucked."

A Part of Hearst Digital Media
Esquire participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites.