Whenever I hear the phrase “fast, casual concept,” I think “chain,” and I lower my expectations. However, when this term was used to describe the Ramen Bar, next door to Pabu, there was reason to suspend disbelief.

Why? First, it’s owned by Michael Mina and Ken Tominaga, and shares the prep kitchen with Pabu. Second, the prices — $12 to $16 for a bowl of noodles — put it in another class from the usual chain options.

At lunch, diners line up, sometimes 40 deep, waiting to order one of the half-dozen ramen or four donburi options ($12). It can take more than a half hour to work your way up to the counter and find a seat so the steaming bowls can be delivered. At night, the line closes down and there’s table service, and while it’s still busy, the tenor is more relaxed and, at least on my visit, the food seemed to be prepared with more precision and care.

The white-tiled room, which seats 56 inside and 32 on the patio, has an open kitchen on two sides, with counters and communal seatings. On every wall, rows of Japanese products look like artwork against the tile, giving the place the sleek look of a chain in the making. The best place to be at this time of year is at one of the umbrella-shaded tables on the patio overlooking the plaza.

As much as I liked the food at Pabu, I wasn’t in love with what came out of the stockpots at the Ramen Bar. In every case, the broth needed adjusting.

After the initial hit of flavor of the mushroom and soy ramen ($11), there was a letdown, although the nori, corn, hoh shimerji and clump of mizuna in the middle were good. The crab and shrimp dumplings ($16) in the seafood ramen were pleasant, but the ginger clam broth needed serious doctoring with the sansho pepper and other condiments on the table. At places like Ramen Shop in Oakland, I’d never think of reaching for these enhancements.

We also ordered Kurobuta pork donburi ($12) with steamed rice and toasted sesame seeds. The meat on top tasted as if it had been retrieved from the back of the refrigerator; the musty aroma was so strong, I didn’t eat the meat, and no one bothered to ask why. That might be because it seemed the goal was to get the diners in and out to make room for those waiting in line for a seat.

The chunks of meat didn’t taste much better in the Hokkaido miso-butter chashu ($14). The broth had a rich texture and bold flavors up front, but not a lot of depth.

Slices of pork that accompanied the Tokyo-style Kurobuta pork ($12) tasted better. The broth also had a nice meaty character, enhanced by wakame, spinach and a soy-cured egg that wasn’t good enough to finish. Still, this would be the only ramen I’d order again.

The restaurant also offers a few salads (all $12), including grilled salmon with soy and sake. The crumbled fish had the texture of canned salmon and ringed a mound of mixed greens piled on a bed of chilled noodles with shaved carrots and coins of cucumber, watermelon radishes and daikon sprouts. Whether topped with marinated chicken, seared beef or mushrooms and tofu, all the salads are flavored with a yuzu vinaigrette that is as serviceable as a little black dress.

My verdict: Like at most fast, casual concepts, the food will fill you up. The restaurant is worth considering if you’re in the neighborhood, but it’s not worth a drive to get a serious ramen fix. Save that for places like the Ramen Shop in Oakland and Ramen Dojo in San Mateo.