This page is for all the various
do-it-yourself instructions + hints & tips that have been sent in. You'll
find some very
useful tidbits here. Feel free to send in your own!

(Notice of Disclaimer: The creator and publisher of this site makes no
guarantees whatsoever. Readers assume all liability and risk for any problems or injuries
or whatever unintended consequences may happen as a result of following advice posted
here. This is a free service for Apache lovers, so please use caution if following posted
instructions. Thank you!)

I found a FAQ on the net for motorcycle nuts, and one guy explained how
he'd taken his ABS plastic faring to a repair shop and the repairman let him in on a cool secret. Use super glue to make a
bead along the crack, THEN SPRINKLE BAKING SODA ON IT!!!!!!!!!! I did this and it works
incredibly. The baking soda makes some kind of chemical reaction which heats up for just a
second or two and then, BAM, the seam is welded! I repaired about 10 lineal feet of
plastic rips and within ten seconds of brushing on the baking soda, I could press pretty
hard on the former cracks with my thumb and there was no problem. It was way cool and easy
to do, but time consuming. -Gary

The best ABS crack repair you can do is with MEK
(MethylEthylKetone) and ABS powder or chips. MEK can be found at most hardware
stores as PVC/ABS glue, and it does a great job melting ABS (given time). ABS
could probably be found at a hardware store in the PVC area. If someone finds a
good source for white ABS, please let me know. You'll have to
grind it up somehow (file or saw, etc.). The best repair method I've seen was described by Gary Burch. Use
a small metal or glass jar with a lid. Mix about equal parts MEK and ABS powder or
chips. If using chips, the smaller they are, the better, as they take time to
melt. Cover and let sit a few minutes, then uncover and stir. Repeat for the
next 30 minutes or so until all the chips are melted into a nice thick toxic goo.
I've only tried ABS chips, but powder should melt a lot faster than chips.
Anyways, this goo can then be spread over the cracks. Work quickly, as it dries
fast. Ideally you'd rough-up the ABS surrounding the crack and carefully clean
it with ABS/PVC cleaning solvent prior to applying the goo. Be careful with the
cleaner as it can drip down the side and remove the white color of the ABS. You
can also use fiberglass strips to cover larger holes first before applying the
goo. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat.

This type of repair will outlast any repair made with fiberglass
material only. I've had great success with this method. It can even be sanded
smooth and painted. Oh yeah - Apache Sales and others sell pre-mixed goo by the
can (for around $12.00). Happy patching! -Doug

Another take on ABS hole repair
After one bonehead move and a split second later, I put two holes in the plastic
on the rear of my Mesa. One the size of a tangerine on a contour, the other
grape sized hole on a corner none the less. After sulking a bit
I figured I could fix the damage. I tackled the big hole first. What I decided
to do first was to remove all loose pieces of plastic . It took some time, but
then shaped some sheet metal to fit the contour from the inside. I drilled a
hole in the tin and used a piece of wire to hold it in place 'till I could pop
rivet it in. Once the rivets secured it I simply cut the wire off letting a
small piece fall in. Bondo (a plastic automotive filer) was the next step. Just
follow the directions on the can. After sanding and priming the area it was
ready for paint. I found a Krylon brand spray paint that is nearly a match.
Pretty good in fact. The paint is Krylon's Living Color line, the color is
titled Muslin. After painting and removing the tape I noticed that a definite
paint line existed. After allowing some time to dry I simply fan sprayed a
larger area to blend out the lines. This project was created in no time, but I
was happy to have repaired it in just three hours. I am no body man, but was
pleased with the results. Though not a perfect repair I do not think others will
notice it. Hope my misfortune is helpful to other users. -Don

More ABS Repair Comments
- First off, you can get pre-mixed abs/mek repair goo from the Apache Experts in
Canada, IF you want to get it the easy way... Second, by rasping abs pieces into
flakes and slowly dissolving into MEK as mentioned here, I was able to get a
paste with the consistency of smooth pancake batter. This stuff was workable for
about a minute. I used a flat-edged piece of tin to smooth it out. I was
repairing cracks and the drill holes in my ventilator cover from the inside, and
hoping for strength reinforcement. I was able to pour this mix in pretty much
like pancake batter, and do what smoothing was necessary, and it turned
out pretty clean and smooth surfaced. As the MEK content was fairly high
compared to the plastic, it is setting up fairly slowly, and I was able to
indent it slightly with my fingernail about 10 hours afterwards. I believe it
will still harden some more, and will definitely seal all the cracks and such.
It would look alright even on the outside if necessary. Note 1: I backed
the drill holes with the infinitely useful duct tape. Note 2: I was told
to terminate the ends of cracks with a drilled hole, eighth inch diameter or
smaller, to prevent the cracks from continuing to spread.

Patience is necessary in disolving the plastic. Stir it regularly, checking
consistency, add flakes until it's as thick as desired, but keep the jar lid
sealed while the plastic is dissolving. And definitely take care when working
with MEK, as it has a nasty reputation. Preferably do your work in a breezy
area. -- Wade

- To find ABS, look in the phone book under plastics. I got mine
from Cadillac Plastics. I got some thin scrap and took a box cutter and whittled
some into a pile then put it into an olive jar (which is very strong) and added
a steel nut as a mixer. I added the MEK and let t soak for a few hours then
either added more abs or mek to get to a pancake batter consistency. Some folks
pour the batter into a plastic ketchup squeeze bottle (red). I don't know if the
clear bottles will work. I got my bottle at ACE hardware. I also got the MEK
from ACE. I used a natural bristle brush and primed the area to be fixed with
raw MEK. Then I put the cream on and fiberglass patch. -Paul

Doug, I thought this might help a lot of folks out
there I have a paint formula that "exactly" matches the abs exterior
of an apache. I work for ace hardware and one of my jobs is being an
ace paint specialist and i have come up with a quart and a gallon formula. But
keep in mind that this formula will only work out with ace hardware paint ,any
other brand paint would be a different base and the color would not be the
same. i hope this helps somebody out it sure helped me out in the restoration
of my '79 ranger. the formula is as follows ace rust stop enamel #225a310
qt:AXX-4 C-3 L-11 KX-10 and ace rust stop enamel #225a310 gal:AXX-16 C-12 L-44
KX-40 .note this formula can also be mixed in latex for painting the paneling
on the interior but i would stay with the oil base for painting the exterior
abs.

I found a rather inexpensive and effective way of making an
awning. We used an 8x10' brown tarp ($5), folded a loop along one long side just
behind the seam, inserted the loop into the guide rail along with 2 5' sections
of 1/4" allthread (Lowes ~ $5) to hold the tarp in place on the trailer
side. On the side away from the trailer I used 1 10' section of electrical
conduit (Lowes ~ $3) that I drilled holes to accept eye screws in matching
positions for the eyelets in the tarp (they'll slip over and you can pin them in
place with dowel pins). I then rolled the conduit over to make the tarp come
over the top and down in front for rain to run off then drilled a hole on each
end to accept extendable tent pole tips (wal-mart ~ $10)). Once raised they are
tied off using 2 stakes/pole with string. Works & looks great. Oh yea, I
store the conduit on top of the awning rail with 2 screws through the holes for
the tent poles into the awining rail. - Chris

The gray vinyl seal that rests on the bed edge when the Apache
is closed, and makes a seal between the bed wing roof and the road cover when
the Apache is set-up, was chipped and ripped on my basket case Apache
Solid-State Ramada. The vendors still have O.E.M. vinyl with the slip in
extrusion lip, but it sells for more than $30 for each end. So I spruced
mine up by stapling Macklinburg Duncan (MD) vinyl garage door bottom seal to the
existing vinyl. Now I have a good-looking black seal that is double the
original thickness. Cost for both ends was about $8. -Gary

NOTE: Automotive weather stripping glue should work if
you don't have access to a large stapler.

Last year, my wife and I purchased our first Apache, totally unaware of
the fraternity following these little beauties!! Anyway, I went through this dilemma last
year and solved the problem the following way:

I found a bike rack that I liked - light weight aluminum, very small for being able to
tote 4 bikes - (we got this from Camping World located on the I-94 service drive,
Belleville, MI). The way I finally figured out to
attach it that worked well was I purchased (4) eyebolts - to the best of my memory, they
were 5/16 size. I then used a tempered drill bit to drill (4) holes through the frame on
the camper, 2 through left side frame (1 front, 1 rear ), and same on the right side. Be
careful on the spacing, as this may cause some unwanted play. Once the holes are made (use
oil frequently on the drill bit to keep it cool while drilling ), you then insert the
eyebolt, eye facing the outside of the camper, and tighten it down (see sketch below).

Once this is done, you simply purchase some ratcheting tie-downs, anchor
between the eyebolt and the usual D-rings you will normally find on any bike rack - and
presto you have yourself an anchored bike rack that a windstorm won't blow off!! You do
have to be careful how much weight you decide to put on top of the camper to prevent
cracking. We have traveled several hundred miles this way with no problems.

The one thing I also had to end up doing - my camper top is ribbed. I had to cut a piece
of plywood the same height as the camper ribbing, wide enough to just fit nicely between
two ribs in order to properly support the foam feet on my particular brand of carrier.
This allowed me to better distribute the weight on the top of the camper, also provided a
non-slip surface. The pressure from the ratcheting tie-downs will hold the plywood in
place just fine. - Paul

I have had many requests for information and
pictures of the shower and hot water heater that I installed in our '77 Ramada
two years ago. I wanted to retain all of the original features in the
camper and so I opted for the following:

The picture above shows the current layout of the dinette end of the camper. I
installed the shower and the hot water heater under the dinette seat.

The picture above shows the back side of the hotwater heater and the shower
base, installed under the dinette seat. No changes were made in the dinette seat
dimensions. The only change was replacing the particle board with plywood since
the hinge had to be set further back to provide maximum space for the shower
base.

The shower base was constructed of 5/8 plywood (base and four sides). I cut a
hole in the bottom to accommodate a shower drain fixture, which also passes
through a hole in the camper floor and can be connected to site septic or to a gray
water holding tank.

I also drilled holes for the faucet fixture. The entire inside and outside of
the plywood base was then coated with fiberglass resin and the inside with some
fiberglass cloth followed by a final gel coat layer (in white).

A shower curtain rod was formed from two pieces of aluminum tubing which are
joined with clips but can be separated for under-seat storage during transport.
Also note the placement of the shower spray head, attached to the shower curtain
rod. The rod is suspended from the ceiling with miniature bungee cords.

This picture shows the shower set up for use. Note that the dinette table is
moved to the far right and supported by a pole constructed for this purpose,
since the normal leg is folded up to avoid contact with the right side seat.

This picture shows installation of the shower faucet. Also note the tubing
leading up to the shower head. Also note that I used cloth shower curtains,
which can be sewn together (2) to encircle the tub enclosure with some overlap.
I also attached snaps to the lower edge of the curtain and the upper lip of the
shower base so that the curtain would remain inside the shower base during use.

This shows a close-up of the shower head. Note a valve on the back side
which allows control of water flow and saves water during during use.

This picture shows the left side of the camper, with the access doors for
the hot water heater, refrigerator and water tank/electrical hookup.

This is a close up of the 6 gallon hot water heater. It is gas fired and has
very quick recovery.
If anyone has questions about this installation, please e-mail me at skibs@sover.net.
Thanks, Steve Skibniowsky

Replacing the floor is not a job for the faint of heart! I just replaced the floor on my 1976 Roamer that had been ravaged by termites. Here are the step by step procedures that I used.

1) Take plenty of pictures before removing any of the furnishings. You will want to refer to them during re-assembly.
2) Take plenty of pictures as you are disassembling the furnishings.
3) Take plenty of pictures.
4) Remove all interior furnishings (and take plenty of pictures).
5) Remove all the screws from the side wall to floor attaching points.
6) Remove all screws from the lift assembly to floor attach points on both ends.
7) Remove large screws holding the floor to the frame rails. Save these as you will need these for re-assembly.
8) Remove the pop rivets holding the side panels to the door posts.
9) Remove the screws and pop rivets from the wheel wells and remove them.
10) Spread the bottom of the sidewalls so that neither side wall is touching the center floor panel.
11) On my Roamer, the dividers were made of plastic, so I just broke them and and lifted the center floor panel out. You may have to get creative if your dividers are made of metal. You might try to set your skill saw blade height very carefully, and rip across the center of the middle floor panel and buckle this up in the middle.
12) The front and back panels can be slid to the center and removed.
13) Use the reverse of this procedure to re-assemble.

You may have to get creative while replacing the floor panels to get the dividers back in. I put mine together without the dividers. The joints fall on frame crossmembers, so I drilled and screwed the panels on each side of the joint to the frame to keep the joint from springing. A little floor leveler in the joints and the flooring material was ready to go down.

While the floor was out, I took the opportunity to grind the rust off the frame and then paint it with POR-15. I also used pressure treated 5/8 plywood. It isn't quite the same thickness as the original material but it works out. Use the old floor panels as templates to get all your holes in the correct place on the new panels. I also used stainless steel screws to replace the rusted screws that I took out.

Remember, take pictures as you will need them during re-assembly! I speak from experience as I didn't take quite enough and have had to do a lot of creative thinking during this phase.
- Terry

Well, it happened to me at the International Roundup. The fridge just quit
cooling. The stack still had heat coming out of it but nothing on either gas
or 120v. It looked hopeless and a new unit seemed so pricey for a new three
way. I had it all set in my head that a new 120v from Home Depot would
probably be my fix, in fact I went to measure and price them. I then called
Campers Paradise and asked if they may know why it died. ( I have heard that
if it leaks amonia that it will leave a yellow color stain near the leak but
none existed). I was told to remove the fridge, lay it on it' side for an
hour, then flip it on it's top for an hour, then set it on the next side for
an hour and the to set it upright for 24 hours. This would release any air
pockets in the line. IT DID! It has been cooling now for over 24 hours and is
colder than the north pole at this point. You have nothing to loose by attempting this if your fridge quits cooling. Give it a shot and good luck.
- Tim

I own a 1967 Apache tent trailer (a real tent on wheels). I have had to replace the
stabilizer legs. I want everyone to know that I replaced them with CP stabilizer
legs
which are really nice! The new legs make
the trailer really stable and do not extend much below the level of the original legs.
These legs are available from RV stores as a set of 4 which can be independently mounted.
I'm really impressed! -James

I recently replaced all the hinges on my trailer as they were cracked and
failing. The first thing you need is the material, take a piece of your broken hinge to a
plastics distributor and show them what you need and tell them what its for. It must be
flexible and be able to maintain this property when you machine it down to 1/16 of an inch
for the channel. I think the stuff I have is called mylar. They stock it in 4 x 8 sheets
and sell it by the foot. A piece 1 x 8 is lots to do all the hinges with some for later on
if you break one again. It cost me about $20.00. The thickness is 3/16 inches. To make the
hinge, cut a strip the length required (measure the old one) on either a table saw with a
fine tooth blade or a band saw, at the appropriate width. The hinges on my Ramada are
13/16th of an inch. Using the old hinge for the profile, router the channel into
the material, taking off 1/16th of an inch on either side. The outside edges of the hinge
can then be routered to give a rounded edge. This is important if the hinge is for a side
panel as it has to slide back and forth. If the hinge is going onto the back wall the edge
can be left at 90 degrees.
The channel can also be cut into the stock using a table saw but you have a lot more
control with a router table, at least I did anyway. Panel hinges are easy to replace. With
the trailer opened, just slide the panel off the track ( after you take out the locking
screw) pull out the old hinges and slide in the new ones, then slide the panel back on the
hinge. It should slide back and forth with little effort. If it binds, you haven't rounded
the edges enough, or the profile is off a little. Make a small practice piece first to get
it right.
To replace the end wall hinges, this procedure works well for me: With the end wall
down,drill out the rivets holding the end cap on one side of the bed and slide it off.
Remove the locking tab which secures the hinge in place from this side by removing the set
screw and pulling gently with long nose pliers outwards.
The plastic of the wall can be flexed back enough to remove the tab but take your time so
you don't give it a stress crack. Grasp the hinge then with the pliers and pull it out.
The hinge is flexible enough that you don't have to hold the wall back to pull it out.
Then slide your new one into place. Replace the locking tab, and the end cap can then be
riveted back into place. Presto Chango you're all done. I recommend you do this with
the trailer in your garage or if not on a day with no wind as you don't want the alignment
to get
knocked out of place when the hinge is off the end wall. The locking tab on the other side
should not be removed. I have easily done it from one side only plus it helps to hold it
together and aligned.
Good luck with the job! -Steve

My long handled crank was missing the slotted pipe and the u-joint when I
aquired it. The "new" styled u-joint I purchased from a vendor looked weak
($19.95 Canadian), so I made my own from a half-inch socket swivel. Our local surplus tool
store (try your pawn shops) had the used socket u-joints for $2.25. I ground down the
circumference on both ends so that one side would fit in the inside diameter of the long
handle pipe and the other inside my new slotted tube. My slotted tube is about 3-inches
long and cut
from an old tubular chair. Actually, any sturdy pipe that has an inside diameter that will
accept the gearbox nipple will work, since I realize most people don't have old
tubular-style chair sitting around that they want to cut up.

I slotted the short piece with a drill and grinder wheel, then welded the three components
together. If you don't have a welder, it would be just about as easy to drill the
components and secure them with a rivet or screw. -Gary

You are looking at the rear of an Eagle soft top. This is as close as I
can make it. The top line is the cover and it is made from heavy vinyl with the storm flap
and female snaps attached to it. The storm flap can be made of lighter vinyl. It has a
Velcro strip sewn to it. The storm flap is 4 wide and as long as needed for each
side. The storm flap looks strange but it forms a tube that traps what water may sneak
past the snap edge keeping the camper dry. The front storm flap should have several inches
on each side that extend unattached past the edge of the camper so that they can wrap
around the sides, otherwise the corners might leak. I didnt install a storm flap in
the back and didnt seem to need it even when we drove through a downpour.

My camper has an aluminum body so I used flat head wood screws to anchor
the male snap body. (Do not use round head screws as the female snap cannot fully engage
and will pop off), nor use pop rivets as they pull out or distort the body of the male
snap. - Paul

Does your bed frame jam as you are trying to raise it? Try this
modified roller. The original roller was a one-time one-try proposition. It also had a
joint where the lift bracket (B) could wedge in. With this roller if you have problems
with spacing, etc., just grind the rivet off and slide a new one in.

(D) Is the new part that is made from ¾" steel or brass stock. It
is turned down to ½" dia. Leaving a 1/8" collar. It slides into part (E)
leaving a 1/8" gap for (B) to slide in

(F) Is just a ¼" I.D. x 1" o.d. fender washer.

(E) Is the 1"x 3/8" thick steel bearing that is already on the
old roller, the only modification necessary is to drill a ½" hole ¼" deep.

The rivet crown may need to be flattened slightly with a file to provide
clearance for the bed platform. The whole assembly is temporarily installed, then the
rivet is measured and cut ¼" longer then reassembled and the rivet is peened over

The rivet can be substituted with a bolt and lock nut but the threads
will wear down faster causing a sloppy fit. The roller assembly should be able to rotate
so dont over tighten!

The EAGLE bed lift mechanism shown above is for my Apache Silver Eagle. It may or may
not work for your camper. The mechanism I am referring to, is that bar which you must grab
and pull in order to bring the bed platform out of the box and then slide the bed to its
final position. On my camper 3 out of 4 were bent and repaired rather shabbily.

Before starting any repairs be sure to take measurements from the hinge rivet to the
top hole (5"on mine)

Cut and repair only one pipe at a time so you will have a reference, incase you get
lost. My pipe had a 5/8" I.D. so finding a rod to flatten/or grind was easy. This
method would work on a roof support pole in a canvas tent also. Stove bolts are #14 x
1½"

I used a MAPP torch to heat the end till red then beat it down with a 3# hammer. If you
want you could grind a flat on the rod instead. I then drilled the two holes at the bottom
of the repair part. Then attached the rod to the triangle with stove bolts. Then I slid
the top pipe over the rod till the hinge rivet was 5" from the top screw in the
triangle plate. Then Vise Grip the tube and rod so it cant move. Then drill through
both the pipe and rod and pass a stove bolt through and nut. Cut all extra bolt ends off
and cover with silicone rubber or such to protect the canvas. Check the Mechanism for
operation and proceed to the next one.

If your canvas is too tight or too loose you can remove the repair rod, put it in a
vise and tweak it either way with a torch and hammer. - Paul

I just replaced a broken gear box casing (got the used part from Apache Trailer
Experts in Thornhill Ontario Canada) on my 1975 Ramada because the drive shaft
pin had worked loose and punched a hole through the side of the casing while my
12 year old son cranked up the cover. The used casing was also sent with a
shaft. The problem arose when I just swapped shafts (I had to cut the pin
holding the lock on the rear box and couldn't get the rest of the pin out of the
shaft and it was now useless). When I had it all reassembled the drive
gear would not move. I had to take everything apart (again) to find that
the cam on the new shaft was not the same as the cam on the old shaft. The
new cam was too small. Fortunately Ole Elmer's notes came in handy and I was able to swap the old cam back in. - Chad

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I just recently replaced my bunk seal across the top of each bunk (1974
Royal). This is the rubber seal at the top of the foldout of the bunk. I
purchased two lengths of 1/16" x 31/2" x 7' 6" of rubber from a
rubber and gasket supply company.
Fournier Rubber and Supply Co.
1341 Norton Ave.
Columbus, Ohio 43212
614-294-6453
Cost me $30.00 for the two pieces. I just removed the two end strips off the
ends, placed the rubber in the groove and replaced the screws with stainless
steel #8 screws. In fact I replaced all the screws in my sheet metal work with
stainless. No more rust spots. I also had about 3 " left on each piece and
replaced the small corner pieces in the folds. Joe
- Columbus, Ohio
P.S. When you have the metal strips off clean them with a S.O.S. pad to a
bright finish and then spray with clear lacquer.

I have noticed a design flaw on my 1975 Mesa's power supply that may be shared with other
Apache's. The power supply has a 14 gauge 120 volt cord rated at 15 amps and a 15 amp
circuit breaker. You would think that the 120 volt plug in the camper on the power supply
is 15 amp also. It isn't. It will run an electric heater (most draw 13 amps) for quite a
while and never blow a breaker. It will eventually burn the internal wires in the power
supply. My guess is that this design was intentional so a small appliance could be plugged
in the 120 volt plug while the 12 volt supply was working. This way the total amperage
draw was less than 15 amps. The problem is many folks are scared of the propane heaters
(if they are so equipped) and are using an electric heater . You will get into trouble
sooner or later - perhaps even a small electrical fire. - Mark

RESPONSE: I came up with a solution for the Apache power
supply design flaw article. We also don't use our furnace anymore (we removed
it to add cabinet space). I wanted a 20 amp circuit to run an electric heater
and an A/C in the summer. I removed the 14/3 cord supplied with the
trailer and purchased a 10/3 cord. I also purchased a small 2 breaker box from
Lowes. I ran the black wire from the new cord to the top of the 2
breakers. I ran the white to the neutral strip and hooked the green wire to
ground. I installed an outlet with 12/3 (20 amp) from the first breaker. This is
used for the heater - a/c only. From the second breaker I ran a wire 14/3 to
the power supply (like the original power cord). Now we have a 20 amp outlet for
the heater/ a/c. We've used both the a/c and heater on all day/night without
a problem or overheated wires. This eliminates running the heater thru the
light wires in the power supply. - JOHN

We just bought our 1975 Ramada and really didn't have time to check
everything out before we went camping. The only problem we encountered was
that the 12V lights and furnace fan did not kick in [May 24 camping in Canada -
down to 0 degrees Celsius]. Back home an investigation revealed that the
transformer was not passing the current through. It turned out to be the
three way switch [battery/off/transformer]. Also once I fixed the switch
the fan still didn't work. I called my electrician friend who came over to
investigate. He found power throughout, so he smacked the fan with a
screwdriver and it started right up. A simple trick of the trade he said -
if it doesn't work HIT IT. - Chad

Greetings from the land of the Apache birth (Michigan). We recently purchased a 78 Yuma
hard side and found that the long propane hose that runs under the box was not attached to
the frame at the axle. It was laying against the top of the axle and the hose has worn
past the inner wire safety mesh. Also the regulator was attached to the frame where it was
exposed to road debree. It should be attached up higher next to the shoulders of the
propane tanks. We went to a commercial propane distributor to have a new hose made. We
added two extra feet to the hose so that we could move the regulator where it needs to be.
The hose was not available off the shelf at the RV stores. The connections are set up
differently. An original Apache dealer who still services Apaches in our area says that
the hose laying on the axle was quite common in all the models. - Robert & Irene

#1 - First off, we try to pack any heavy items in the car and not the camper. The
lighter you can keep the camper, the better. Definitely don't fill up the water tank
before a road trip. Whatever we do pack in the camper, we're sure to keep the load as even
as possible - forward and back, and left and right. If you must put a heavy item in, be
sure to position it over the axle. Following these measures will help prevent camper sway.
The last items we put in before the final fold-down are lawn chairs & other light
things.

#2 - Check everything before pulling away. Always be sure to double check all the
mechanical and electrical hook-up connections. Test out brake lights & turn signals,
confirm safety chains are on, the lift is ALL THE WAY up, all feet are locked up, the door
step is up, all utilities are disconnected, tires look solid with no signs of wear, etc.
Be sure to keep the spare tire inflated. Always, always, take a final walk around before
pulling away. You'd be amazed at how many people actually do not do this!

#3 - Take it easy! Remember - it will take a little longer to accelerate and to
stop. Turns should be taken on the wide side. Slow WAY down for Railroad crossings. Stay
at the posted speed limit and relax and your Apache will be much happier. After a while,
you'll forget it's there! (be careful of that!) -
Doug

A poor ground may cause the lights to go out and/or blink, and would not be detected as
a short. I have (and have had) several trailers (boat, campers, cargo) and USUALLY, when
there is a symptom of using the turn signal and either both, or all lights, flashing, it
has usually been resolved by addressing a ground problem. For example: My 1966 Raven had
the same symptoms. Going out for no reason, lights that shouldn't be flashing or blinking
are, dim lights, no fuses burned out. The framework (tongue, springs, axle, etc) are
totally isolated from the aluminum camper box. There is plywood secured to the
framework,
and the box is secured to that plywood around the perimeter. Since the Raven has NO
cabinets or double walls, it was easy to trace the wiring. There is a ground wire that
attaches to one of the gussets inside the body. The wiring configuration that pre-existed
on the trailer when I picked it up had that wire going to the vehicle flat four plug
connection. Unfortunately, the newer vehicle configuration doesn't include a ground
connection on my vehicle (it is a hot wire instead). I installed a new grounding wire
between the framework and the body and all of the symptoms have disappeared. I used a
short piece of #14 stranded wire (typical trailer wiring stuff) with appropriate terminals
on the ends to screw it to the metal. The ground connection between the vehicle and the
trailer is made through the hitch. You may need to have the trailer connected to the
vehicle to validate my suggestion, not just close enough for the wires to connect. -
Jim Lockard

Another Take: We were having electrical issues with our '75 Royal. The
new trailer hookups just weren't working properly, even though they were wired
correctly. The guy at the hitch place stressed the importance of a good solid
ground. He tapped into the ground wire on the trailer tongue with a short piece
of wire. He drilled a small hole into the tongue frame and bolted the end of the
wire to the frame. The spliced end was taped up nice and tight, and all the
lights have worked perfectly ever since! - Doug

I just painted the frame on my 1970 Mesa III with a paint that many of the auto
restorers use. It is called POR-15. They have a website at www.por15.com.
It is a very good paint for rusted undercarriages. You paint it right over the rust and it
forms a very hard surface and prevents further rusting.

You can use any good wood deck type waterproofing paint for the plywood base. - Tom

I coated the pressboard undercarriage (wood, metal frame, and wheel wells) on
our '79 Ramada with a rubberized automobile undercoating product. It used quite
a few cans and required a couple even thin coats, but turned out nicely. I just
coated the outside few feet around the perimeter, and didn't spray the middle
area. Just be
sure to wear work clothes and gloves as it gets messy toward the end of the can
and it's difficult to wash off. - Doug

I don't own an Apache popup, they look like well made units. I just surf
around on sites dealing with any popups for info and saw "Protect your
undercarriage" in the "How To" page and let you know of my
experience: I used a tar based coating for roofs that can be applied using a
paint brush. I coated the wood floor and all of the under carriage. The sealant
worked so well that when I sprung a leak on the inside, the moisture was soaked
up in the wood flooring and was very slow drying. Needless to say, when the wood
dried, the floor was spongy. The coating kept the moisture in the floor longer.
Maybe that's why the underside is not water proofed from the manufacture? -
Daryl

Hmmmm - based on Daryl's response, perhaps It's a good idea to coat the
(pressboard) wood around and behind the wheel wells/perimeter only to minimize road
splatter moisture penetration? The Apache plywood probably doesn't need to
be coated at all. Tough call... -Doug

I just finished changing the windows in my 1977 Ramada and thought I would send along
how it got done. My camper does not have rubber holding the windows in. There is a piece
of extruded aluminum on each end of the window and the window slides in a track top and
bottom. I cranked the top up then went inside. While lifting the end of the wall I was
able to slide the roller assembly that holds each end of the wall, toward the outside of
the camper top. There is a notch in the track that allows you to remove the rollers from
the track. A helper to hold the disconnected end while you do the other end is required.
Lay the wall down on a support in your camper (wood blocks, whatever). Once you have
both ends out, you have to remove the screws that hold the top track in place( 2 at each
support). Once the screws are removed you can lift the entire top track off then the
windows all come out the top. REMEMBER which track you got each window from!!!!! IF your
screens are screwed in remove the screen screws also. Carefully remove the extruded aluminum from each side of each window. NOTE WHICH END IS UP and which
way the weatherstrip points. The ends MUST go on the new glass the SAME way they came off
the old. Put them on the new plexiglass. (use a little clear silicone sealer to hold them
in place). Reassemble in reverse. Good luck be patient. - John Kennedy

Another take: I was able to (as you suggested) remove the rubber strip
from around the screens to remove them. This enabled me to attempt to clean the
windows (which became cleaner, but were badly yellowed from age.) Instead, I decided
to replace all the windows. I removed the rubber strip from the top and sides of the
screens, letting them hang down from the bottom. The metal "handle" strips
remove from both ends of each window pane. The rubber sleeve under that was simply
glued on and pulled off quite easily. I then measured the windows (for those of you
who might want to do the same, the Ramada Solid State needed six 26 3/4" X 29
1/2" panels for the large windows and two 26 3/4" X 13" panels for the
small sliders to the right of the door. I decided not to replace the bed windows,
since those curtains will always be drawn. After removing the metal and rubber from
the old windows, they simply bend and pop out of the tracks. The new plexiglass
panels (which cost only $60 for all of the above, cut to size by a local hardware store)
popped in the same way. What a difference! The inside is so much brighter, and the
new plexiglass is as clear as day. The newer plexiglass is much more scratch
resistant, too. - Pete

One More Take: I was able to replace the windows on our '79 Ramada
without removing any tracks. The entire job took about 2 hours or so to
complete, and here's how I did it: I measured the windows and ordered them
from a local plastics shop (Piper Plastics in Libertyville, Illinois). I got
THICK ones - 1/8 inch (.118) dark tinted acrylic sheet. It ran $195 and I got to
keep all the extra material (2+ extra windows, large ones and more). Lexan would
work too but it's a little more money. I started on one side. I tilted the wall
into the camper at an angle and removed the screens (2 screws each on the
bottom). Then I removed the end screws holding in the aluminum window channel
which sits in the middle of each set of windows. This holds the stationary
window in place. The plastic can then be bent a little and popped out of the
track. Remember the direction of the channel and which track the plastic sits
in. Next remove the aluminum ends on the sliding window plastic. Just pop out the
plastic plugs which hold them in place. Pull these tracks off, remember which
way they go, then bend and pop out the old plastic. The 1/8 inch acrylic was a
little thick, so I had to use a screwdriver and pry the side track channels open
a little bit. I put a bead of silicone in each channel on the side tracks. Bend
the plastic a bit and pop it into place in the proper track. Then slide the
aluminum side tracks onto the plastic. I used a rubber mallet to get them on
good and tight. Find the right drill bit and carefully drill out the plastic
through the existing side track holes. Pop the old plugs back in to hold the
side tracks tightly on. Bend the stationary plastic window in place and finally replace
the last center aluminum track. This one had to be pried open the most for my
thick plastic. Screw the middle channel back on top and bottom and replace the
screen. Repeat for each set of windows. If you have any questions, let me know!
Good luck, and remember that this plastic can be SHARP! (It can also be filed
smooth on the moving window top and bottom edges for easier sliding)
-Doug

For all of you with old Apache's...(basically all of you at this site), wanted to say
how important repacking wheel bearings is. My '74 was purchased from a friend, who
admitted to me he had never repacked the bearings since original purchase. I had my
neighbor (part time "grease monkey") show me how to repack them. If anyone
is interested, it's probably the most important part of trailering your camper
anywhere. We found the old grease dried up and the bearings had begun to wear.
To repack them:

Jack up the camper (you can use a car jack on the frame or use the tongue jack with the
rear jacks down and locked). Be sure to use safety stands under the camper.
Raise one wheel off the ground. Use a hammer and screwdriver to loosen the cap from
the center of the wheel. We used the hammer claw to pry it off a little at a time,
moving around the cap. Make sure the inside of the cap is clean and put it
aside. You will see a large nut beneath the cap, with a cotter pin through it. Bend
the end of the cotter pin straight and push it out (or pull out with pliers) the other end
to remove it. Clean it and put it aside. The nut should only be hand tight, so you
should be able to remove it without tools. Once the nut is removed, you can remove
the entire wheel. The bearings (there are two sets in each wheel) can be removed by
using a crow bar or hammer handle and tapping them out from the opposite side. The
bearing and seal will pop out. Pop out both bearings and seals, wipe all dirty
grease from them, and wipe out the inner area of the wheel. To repack the bearings, just
put a big blob of wheel bearing grease (from auto parts or hardware store) into the palm
of your hand, and "shave" the grease from your hand with the bearing, working
the grease into the gap between the bearing housing and the bearings themselves. (It's
very self-evident when you look at it.) The old dirty grease will push out the
top. When the bearings are repacked, replace them in the wheel with the seals and
tap back in. Just remember which side was which. One bearing is larger than
the other. (I think the larger bearing goes on the outside of the wheel) Place
the wheel back on the axle, replace the nut. Turn the nut till hand tight, then
replace the cotter pin through the hole in nut and axle end. Bend one end of the
cotter pin so it won't fall out. Tap the cover back on and it's done. Repeat for the
other side. This took my neighbor ten minutes for one wheel, and took me about fifteen for
the other by myself. This made a huge difference in the "free spin" of the
wheels. It also allowed me to lubricate all the trailer brake parts located behind
the wheel. And if you need to sand and paint your trailer wheels, this is a good way
to do it because you have them off and there's no danger of paint contaminating the
grease. Just plug the center area with newspaper and spray. Good Luck. - Pete

NOTE: - Here's a copy of the Fayette Manufacturing
Company Engineering Letter titled as follows:

Hi, Great web site. I thought I was the only one out there that loved their
Apache!! Ours is a 1977 Ramada 16. I had a dickens of a time locating the s/n
and I eventually was forced to strip the paint off of the tongue of the trailer
hitch. Voila the mystery number appeared on the cross beam that runs down the left
side of the trailer about a foot back from the ball attachment point. It only took
me two years to find it, but then again what is two years in the life of an Apache.
- S. Beadore

Plastic doesn't breathe, but people do. Our breath and bodies
put off moisture, and so does cooking. If the moisture doesn't have an
escape from the camper like a ceiling vent or an open window, it'll
accumulate on the ABS sides or windows - usually the bed ends since they're
the coolest. The moisture will eventually start to drip down to the lowest
point - which is the plywood bed bottom. This one's fairly easy to manage -
just open or power-up your vent every now and then or crack open a window to
release the moisture.

Rain leaks are another common problem. All the rain that lands on the roof
is channeled to the bed ends and down one or more corners depending on how
level the camper is set up. You have to look very closely at the outside bed
end corners to determine where water may be coming in. Quite often the
rubber pieces on the top corners get tweaked out of position and allow water
in. Just loosen the screws, reposition the rubber, and tighten back down.
Other times, the ABS exhibits fine hairline cracks along the top corner that
allow in water. Remember - all the water that hits the roof will be
channeled past this small crack, so some is bound to come in. Just follow
the ABS repair method discussed on this page to fix this. I
had to
do this on our '79 Ramada.

Finally, sometimes water comes in through the window seals. (Always be sure
your windows are closed all the way into the channels). Just put a bead of
clear silicone around the window seal to stop this sort of leak.
One gentleman explained that he took a length of PVC pipe, cut it in half
lengthwise to make two "gutters", and afixed these to the two ends of
the
roof. He capped off the front and they now work as gutters to channel all
the rain that lands on the roof off the back instead of off the bed end
roof.
Whatever your method, it just takes a little effort to determine exactly
where it's coming in, then it's usually a pretty simple fix.

(How to set up a
typical solid state Apache)

The best thing to do is follow the instruction manual that came with your
camper. If you don't have a manual to follow, you may not be doing it right. You
can always check the Manuals Page to see if yours or a
similar one is posted.

Apache's have to be put up very precisely to assure a weather-tight seal, especially on
the ends. Basically, these are the
most important points to remember:
1. The camper should be perfectly LEVEL with all the feet secured in place. It
is very bad to raise and set up an Apache if it is not level as it puts
unnecessary stress and strain on lifting components and panels, etc. A level
popup is a happy popup!
2. After the roof is cranked all the way up, carefully (with 2 people ideally)
fold the walls up and clip them into place.
3. Pull the bed ends out and support them with the poles. Then you can go inside
and fold up any cabinetry you may have. Next prepare to secure the bed end roof
enclosure. Extra care should be taken to ensure
each bed end enclosure is assembled correctly. The 'ears' on
the top latch must be on the outside of the roof edge, but underneath the rubber
flap seal. Pull the bed end walls toward you (slide them on the living hinge)
and fold them up into place. Slide them tightly back into the grooves. Some models have separate molded plastic pieces that fit over the 4
outside corners and prevent leaks - similar to the molded plastic pieces that fit over the
outside tracks. Look for extra plastic latches on the corners as an indication if your
model requires them.
4. Finally, you must crank the top back down a few turns to lock the walls in place and seal
them tight. Do not over tighten the roof or it'll stress the panels. Many models
have metal clips in the center top of each side wall to hold the wall in
position while lowering the top. Additionally, the track (or groove) in the
underside of the roof that the top of the walls sit in should have a nice
unbroken rubber seal in place. If this is missing or in poor shape, it can be
ordered cheaply from Apache Sales Corp. or others.

If you have leaks, get in the camper during a rain storm and figure out exactly where water comes in.
If any windows aren't completely shut into the end groove they could let water in,
especially the end ones. When you discover exactly where the water is coming in, you can
decide on the best way to stop it. Cracks in the plastic are easily repaired with an ABS
plastic repair kit, or by following the instructions on this page under
"ABS Repair". -Doug

I have a 74 Apache Eagle 8. It was bought new by my parents and is still in their name. It
had not been used in 10 years and the yard man wanted to have it so he could gut it and
make a lawn trailer out of it. I couldn't let it happen so I hooked it up and took it to
my yard (1 mile). I then tried to crank up the top but the cables broke. I received
Elmer's # and couldn't believe that I would have to spend almost $700.00 to replace
both gear boxes and four chains. The camper had only been used 15 times or fewer. I used
the lift system manual to take apart the lift system and took all the plastic links to a
marine store where I purchased Stainless Steel cables and replaced the old cables. The
marine store also had the brass stops and a crimping tool to put the chain back together
with. The total cost was about $175. The main thing to be sure to do is to get the cables
tight. It requires two people so bring a friend. You know when you have done this when the
chain bends. I also cracked a gear box. I repaired this by going to a Home improvement
center and I purchased metal epoxy glue. I have also seen this glue in Auto Stores. This
glue can even be machined. I glued the broken pieces together and then sanded. I have now
used this trailer for 2 months straight. I repacked the bearings and traveled at 70mph for
7 hours with no problems. I have also installed an AC unit by taking out the 10 gal water
tank and will write back on how this was done. -John

Great site!!! When I bought my '70 Mesa III, I just thought I was getting a good deal
on an old camper. After findng your site I realize I got a great deal on a classic !
One of my lift springs popped out of the track & twisted on the '70s unique
system. The only replacements I could find cost $85 each, with me supplying the ends. I'm
going to replace it with cable and a length of 1/2 " plumbers snake I bought at the
local hardware store. Swag the original ends on, should be like new. All 4 corners can be
re-done for less than $40. Happy camping!!! -Mike
Novotny

I have another source for parts. My cable hatches were broken and the RV dealer wanted
$9.00 for each hatch and the were white. They no longer make brown or green hatches. All
that was wrong with my orginals was the metal springs were broken. The dealer told me I
couldn't buy just the springs so I bought 1 hatch and then called 411. I got the number of
the company that still makes this type of hatch (219) 262-4707. I purchased 10 springs for
.35 each. To replace the spring you must first drill out the rivets holding in the hatch.
the broken part can now be removed. Next on the hatch side take a knife and pop off the
name ie Cable Hatch. You must be very careful when doing this because they are glued on
and the plastic is old and brittle. You can now get to the other side of the spring. The
spring is three pieces. Two rods and a clip spring. Install one rod and the spring into
the door. This is the easy part. Next file one of the end of the second rod in a cone
shape. Put the door and body together as in the closed position. Now take a fine screw
driver like the smallest one on a Leatherman Tool and slide the rod into place. You have
now replaced your spring. Get some new metal caulk to replace the old caulk and pop rivet
back in place. The last thing is to glue the names back on the hatches. Now you can have
all the orginal hatches in working order. -John

The ac installation is complicated. I installed a 6000 BTU (should be 8000 or larger)
window ac into the space where my 10 gallon water tank was. My ac unit was 12 3/4 in H by
18in W by 14in D. I had to cut the interior cabinet wall and fit the front of the ac flush
to the wall. Second, I cut a 12 in by 12 in hole into the exterior and created duct work
that connected the rear of the ac to the hole in the exterior. I also had to drill a hole
in the lowest part of the ac unit and through the trailer floor so the water could flow
outside. I also cut some 2 1/2 in holes through the floor and mounted circlular vents so
air could get to the air intakes on the side of the
window unit.

I started by placing the ac unit where I thought it would go. Next I cut a 12 in X 12in
hole in the exterior. I cut a hole about as big as a hatch first and checked the inside.
I'm glad I did because I had the hole marked too high. I re-measured and made the cut. Next
I cut the hole into the cabinet (take the front of the ac unit off and make a hole smaller
than the back of the front grate.) When done correctly the grate will fit directly into
the cabinet without any gaps. Now drill out the rivets and screws holding the
cabinet wall
into the trailer and remove. Now take your hole saw and create the holes in the floor (
not directly under where the ac unit will be) so the side vents on the ac unit will be able to get outside air. Now take your
Ac unit and drill a 1/2 in hole in the lowest point and make sure you do not hit anything
in the unit. place the unit inside the camper and drill a hole where your drain is.

Now place your unit inside the camper and make sure your hole is in the correct place. I
made a 2 1/2 in hole to make sure it was in the right place and so water will never rot
out my floor. Now measure for your duct work. I rivited the duct to the ac unit and then
installed. Now place your ac unit inside. Next place the cabinet wall back and pop rivet
and screw it in place. Last take metal caulk and caulk around the outside hole for the
exaust grate. I screened the back of
the grill so bugs will not make a home in there during the off season. Then I screwed the
grill in place. You can rivet this but I thought I might want to be able to take the off
so I screwed it. This is more complicated than fixing the lift system but once in place is
worth it. It took me one
complete day to do this project. -John

Another take on AC installation

Well let me explain our A/C system, the unit I purchased is an Emerson Quiet Cool 7500
BTU window unit. I removed the doors on the lower half of the cabinets below the 3 burner
stove, just over the wheel well. The vent panel is directly behind this area, I believe
this is where a heater option may have been located. Then with some minor adjustment of
the conduit that runs through this area the A/C unit slips in. The existing shelf needs to
have one of the rear corners lowered, by removing one of the rivets and redrilling it to
create a low point drain. The next step was to seal the 3 corners of what is now my drip
pan, the low point can either be filed or drilled so the condensation will drain. Then use
a piece of 1" PVC and attach it to the area that is now a drain, and plumb it to an
area that can be drilled through the floor. A few pieces of high density foam is used to
trim out this cavity to create a basically air tight compartment. Currently we just have
the vent panel removed to experiment on the size of vent required, it appears this area
could easily be trimmed and some sort of screened or louvered panel made to fit. I will
fill you in on other details as they occur, we have only run this in the yard but soon
plan to try it in the field. Again thanks for the great web site. . . . Well I ran into
some problems on keeping the A/C unit cool, so here is my modified installation. In the
cabinet under the stove I cut the existing heater vent plate larger to accommodate the A/C
unit. I then made braces to fit in the cabinet for the width of the unit. I bought some
drawer sliding rails 22" in length and mounted them to the braces. Then I attached
the unit to the other part of the rails and put the system in. Now I can leave it in the
camper while in tow and when not in use, and just slide it out when we need it. I am in
the process of making a cover plate for the exterior of the opening. I will try and get
some pics of the installation out for you. Thanks for the Great Site, - Kevin

Here's a picture of a similar installation:

Non-destructive, removable AC
Installation:

The non-destructive A/C installation described here was tested on my 1976
Mesa. It has the "tall" windows; windows that are 36" tall and
24" wide (48" for both panels together). The older units have much
smaller (in height) windows, so some adapting would need to be done for that
application, and the height of these small windows could pose a problem (in
relation to the height of the A/C unit).

This methods mounts a standard window unit A/C in place of the outside
screen. This is so you can install/uninstall the A/C just as you would the
normal screen. In the Winter, install the screen as normal, and use a heater for
warmth In the Summer, replace the screen with the plywood A/C panel, and you
will have air conditioning! It can be installed by one person, but two people
works even better.

The plywood used was ½", you can use birch or oak, etc. The support
stiffners were ¾" pieces of oak plywood glued, then screwed in place. The
inside twist tabs are also ¾" plywood. The handles were hardware store
folding handles, and really help when installing the unit. The A/C unit was a
Fedders 5,000 BTU unit, nothing fancy.

Please also notice here that all the pictures show the window being used as
the "door" side window. This is for ease of photos only!!!! The
correct window to use is the window directly across from it, on the backside
(hookup side) of the camper (the windows are identical in size). This way you
can plug directly into the campsite power. Do not use your power converter!
Also, be sure to mount the vent on the inside of the camper high enough that it
does not blow cold air on the back of your head when you are seated at the
table!

The only option not shown in the installation is a support leg for the back
of the A/C unit. I highly recommend this, as it is easy to do, and helps
distribute the weight of the A/C evenly. To build it, just measure from the
bottom of the back end of the window unit to the trough that is below the window
on the outside. Then attach one half of a hinge to the A/C unit, and the other
half of the hinge to a board of correct length. The when you set up you’re A/C
at the campsite, just install the hinge pin, position the bottom of the board
against the trough, and your done! This setup is VERY sturdy. I will post my A/C
support leg pictures as soon as I have it done.

Here's a few photos of the AC installation in our 1976 Royal. The unit is an
8000 BTU Fedders. - Jack Mann

Here are two shots of another end AC installation in a '75
Roamer with a smaller AC unit mounted a little higher and a good view of the
support bracket. More shots of this camper can be found on the Apache
Restoration page.

One More Picture!

Here's a shot of yet another way to install a window AC unit on
an Apache. This one is on Tony's '74 Roamer, and can be viewed on the Apache
Restoration page.

I own a 1965 Apache Golden Buffalo. When I bought it two years ago, I made several repairs
with a latex tarp patching glue. I purchased the glue in a one quart plastic bottle for
about
$7 as I recall. I bought it at a farm supply store in Fargo ND named Nodak. I would assume
that any farm supply store would carry a similar glue. The glue dries very flexible and
almost transparent. It rubs right off your hands after drying so there is not a lot of
clean up to be concerned about. -Wayne
Triebold

There is a latex cement called (TEAR MENDER) by Val-A Chicago, Inc. 700 W.
Root Street
Chicago IL 60609 . This may be the latex patch glue the other article is referring to.
Note the glue slowly darkens with age and dirt. Another glue/sealer I have used is
(SEAM GRIP) it is a urethane base totally clear and grabbed to my vinyl top like a vice. I
prefer this glue over the cheaper latex. - Paul D

I wanted to comment on Old Elmer's replacement canvases. Old Elmer himself is a
wonderful person. The tentmaking is contracted out to Gregory Canvas in Lapeer.

We finally had to buy a replacement tent and awning for the Eagle. We were assured that
the new one would be EXACTLY like the original for their having the patterns. What we got
is about 80% exactly the same.

Gregory makes the main top of the tent itself out of white vinyl so we no longer have our
beautiful green tent. The piping around the windows is cotton and capillary action brings
pretty significant water drips inside when wind blows hard rain against the side. They
must have changed the top to vinyl because the canvas they use other places, especially on
the canopy is very light weight; in a heavy rain one can feel a very fine mist coming
through. (We finally sent the canopy out to be professionally waterproof coated which has
solved the problem.)

They used some self healing zippers but for the canopy connection to the main tent, they
used the old metal zippers and it has taken us three seasons to smooth those metal teeth
out enough to zip smoothly. (For two summers I cursed loudly trying to get the canopy
attached).
They did not sew the front canopy straps on strongly enough or with enough backing (the
straps with gromits that receive the pole heads) and we had to have them reworked by a
canvas shop because they were tearing loose. The rear straps on the canopy were not put on
at all until I sent the whole thing back for reworking. They also did not put the top rear
tent strap on.

Finally, you really have to say that the sewing quality is not first rate. Seams wander
and overlapping pieces were not caught together in places. We paid $645 for the tent and
$220 for the canopy.

I do know a tentmaker that will make new canvas tents by copying your existing tent. It
was he who repaired my Gregory Canvas tent and canopy and he has made some canvas side
pannels for the canopy to my specifications. He also made up a velcro attached screening
system that I designed for the canopy. If people are interested, I could be an
intermediary (we are in Jersey City, New Jersey and he is in Patterson, NJ) for those too
far away or for those who might want to use our old Eagle tent and canopy as a pattern.
I'm just writing this as I think of it. Is there a service here? Should we talk?

The furnace on our old '75 Royal didn't require a battery or any power, unless you
wanted to use the blower. All it needed was propane. I was unsure at first, but it's pretty
easy. Just turn on the propane tank, turn the red knob to pilot, push and hold it in, then
swing open the little pilot door and put a match in. (one of those long grill lighters
works best!) When the pilot lights, keep holding the button in for one full minute (or
longer) so it heats up and stays lit, then let it go. It should stay lit. It's now in
stand-by (pilot) mode. Close the little metal door all the way and keep it
closed. When you're ready for heat, turn the knob all the way to
"on" (next step past pilot) and it should go "woof" and start burning
propane and producing heat. The other knob just controls how high the flames are
inside (I think).
It took me a while to get that one set for comfort. Anyways, the blower just cranks the
heat out faster and helps circulate it. Careful - it gets HOT! Keep all
flammable materials away from the furnace when operating (especially out of the
cubby directly above the furnace)! :) -Doug

On my '63 Apache
trailer, the bed platforms can get heavy while one is trying to lower the
support legs with one hand while supporting the bed with the other. The
previous owner of my trailer solved the problem by attaching a pipe flange to
the bottom of each bed platform, centered near the outer edges, into
which a length of threaded pipe can be screwed after the bed platform is
pulled out just a few inches. The length of pipe is (I ought to go
measure them) just long enough to support each bed platform until the support
legs are lowered, and they are easily removed and stowed between the edge of
the bed and the edge of the platform when not in use. Craig

Before reading the instructions on HOW to do this, please see
this note from Tim Schaefer, the master Apache gearbox re-builder extraordinaire
on WHY you'd want to do this in the first place:

"People don't really understand that if the gearboxes are regularly cleaned
and lubricated that they will last forever. There is no real force being put on
them to lift the chains and roof. But, also, if the extension poles are also not
lubricated correctly it will bind and put force in the system and mess things
up. The biggest problem I see with the chains is the metal cable that holds them
together. It is at the point in there life that they are rusting and snapping.
This problem also dates back to the poles not being lubricated. If a regular
schedule of lubricating the extension poles for the roof was followed, the spray
lubricant would have got into the links and to the metal cables and protected
them with the silicone. Ah, but what are we to do now! Hind sight is always
20/20.

The reason the old gearboxes give way is the small gears can't
take much force when the system is poorly maintained. If maintained and
lubricated correctly, these small teeth gearboxes would last forever. As far as
the aluminum gears vs. poly carbonate gears, there is good and bad both ways.
Poly carbonate gears will give when the temps are low in conjunction with
bad lubrication. Also, it matters the grease that is used. I prefer a white
lithium grease because of it's light weight and water resistant qualities, but
it still thickens in colder temps. The aluminum gears will power thru where the
poly carbonate gears break and give way. This means if the system binds at some
point, the aluminum gears will keep turning and the system will break at a
different point, usually the chains or the cable running thru the chains. It's
all trade offs. The best thing to do here is understand the lift system and care
for it accordingly."

And now the Apache Gearbox Primer

1972 Apache Ramada Trailer

The 1972 Apache models had composition (molded) gears. The 1973 Apache gears
were changed to metal parts. Please refer to pages 3, 4, & 5 in the
"1967 Thru 1986 APACHE Lift Systems Parts and Service Manual" located
at the end of the Parts page. The file to download is: liftsys.pdf
(1,164 Kb). I will expand on the inspection, disassembly, cleaning,
lubricating and reassembly of the gearboxes and connecting tube.

DESCRIPTION

There are two gearboxes; one is located in the rear of the trailer and has
the crank handle connection in the back of the gearbox. The second gearbox is
located in the front of the trailer and has the connecting tube tension spring
assembly in the back of the gearbox.

INSPECTION

Before removing the gearboxes, inspect the assemblies for damage and binding.
Look for cracked housings, broken bolts, missing nuts and washers, rust, dents
and wear. In particular, the connecting tube may need cleaning, rust removal,
and lubrication (bearing grease) at the frame suspension points. The tube ends
fit into roll pins on the driveshafts of the gearboxes. Check these pins and the
tube ends for wear.

1. Remove the skid plate protecting the rear gearbox.
2. Remove the hardware from the front gearbox. Apply pressure on the
spring-loaded connecting shaft to disconnect it from the gearbox driveshaft.
Lower the gearbox and pull away from the mounts. Release the spring pressure
from the connecting tube. Pull the connecting tube forward to disengage it from
the rear gearbox driveshaft. Place permanent identifying marks (position,
location and which gearbox) on the gearbox. CAUTION: Cleaning may remove these
marks.
3. Remove the rear gearbox hardware and then lower the gearbox. Place permanent
identifying marks (position, location and which gearbox) on the gearbox.
CAUTION: Cleaning may remove these marks.

NOTE: Look up into each chain opening (where the gearbox was located).

Use a felt-tip marker and mark the locations of each chain cog. This will
help you remember where the cogs are located when you reinstall each gearbox.
Also, this is a good time to do the cleaning, rust removal and lubrication
(bearing grease), of the connecting tube, at the frame suspension points. Add
grease to the connecting tube spring tension assembly (for rust prevention).
Leave the connecting tube in place.

FRONT GEARBOX DISASSEMBLY

Mark, or otherwise identify the gear-tooth (contact points to the chain cogs)
locations in relationship to the gearbox housing. Also, note each end of the
gearbox and driveshaft. It is easy to be confused with the gear arrangement when
you reassemble the housing.

1. Remove the roll pin from the driveshaft with a pin punch and hammer. Set
the roll pin aside.
2. Clean the residue gasket material from the housings. Solvent-clean the
housings.
3. Remove the hardware from the gearbox housing with a 3/8' wrench and S2 bit
driver.
4. Carefully pull the two housings apart and note (a digital photo will do) the
location of each seal, bearing, and gear. (This must be known for reassembly.)
5. Take each section of gears and remove all of the old grease and debris. A pan
of solvent and toothbrush are good to use. Work the solvent into the roller
bearings until the bearings will rotate. They might be frozen by the old grease.

NOTE: Do not use any sharp tools, or cloths that will leave lint. Also,
observe the type of gears that are used (old or new style). See the picture on
page 4, figure 4 of the manual. Place a check mark on the drawing next to the
style of the gears that you have.

6. If the bearings will not turn, force a small amount of the bearing grease
around each roller with your fingers. Repeat using solvent to clean the
bearings. Continue this procedure until the rollers will turn. Repeat this
method with each assembly. Again, note the location of each part in reference to
its position in the gearbox. (Take more pictures.)
7. Repeat the cleaning procedure with the driveshaft bearings located in each
housing. The bearings may have separated from the housing, when the gears were
removed. Take note of the bearing and seal locations.

FRONT GEARBOX ASSEMBLY

1. Relubricate all of the bearings and the driveshaft.
2. Add a film of grease over the teeth of each gear.
3. Check the orientation of each part and match it to your drawings or photos.
Slide each assembly together.
4. Rotate the parts in either direction until the teeth engage and the housing
shells can be pushed back together.
5. When you are satisfied that the housings can be completely closed, run a
small bead of RTV adhesive around the mating portions of the gearbox housing
shells. Smooth and remove any excess adhesive with your fingers and then
reinstall the hardware on the housing. Do not seal the drain hole.
6. Reinstall the roll pin on the driveshaft. Use the same pin that was removed,
or a new one of the same size.
7. Set the gearbox assembly aside.

REAR GEARBOX DISASSEMBLY

Mark, or otherwise identify the gear-tooth (contact points to the chain cogs)
locations in relationship to the gearbox housing. Also, note each end of the
gearbox and driveshaft.

1. Remove the roll pin from the driveshaft with a pin punch and hammer. Set
the roll pin aside.
2. Remove the crank guide pivot pin.

NOTE: The 1972 APACHE has a peined-pin that holds the crank guide in place. I
found that I had to grind off the end of the pin, and remove the pin, before I
could disassemble the gearbox housing. Probably, the rubber washer and spring
have deteriorated and are not longer installed. This is the reason for the
replacement items listed in the PARTS AND SUPPLIES list.

3. Follow the same procedures as used to disassemble the Front Gearbox; steps
2 through 7.

REAR GEARBOX ASSEMBLY

1. Follow the same procedures as used to assemble the Front Gearbox; steps 1
through 6.
2. It is time to reinstall the crank guide assembly to the back driveshaft. If
any of the parts are broken, or missing then follow the suggested modification:
A. Install the rubber washer over the back driveshaft and push forward.
B. Install the stainless steel washer, or the two thin reducing washers.
C. Take the crank guide bracket, cotter pin, and two 1/4" s.s. washers and
place them onto the driveshaft. The correct order is: cotter pin, washer, right
side of the bracket, driveshaft, left side of the bracket, washer, and cotter
pin forked end.
D. Spread the cotter pin forks outward.

NOTE: The crank guide bracket is installed with the flat sides toward the
housing. Leave a 1/8" gap between the driveshaft and washer (Later, it will
be divided to 1/16" for each side of the driveshaft.) This is for a gap
that will allow the crank sleeve to fit onto the driveshaft, without excessive
force. Now, bend the forks to a 90-degree angle of the cotter pin. Cut off any
part of the cotter pin fork that extends beyond the bracket.

3. Set this assembly aside.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1. Position the gearbox teeth (that the chain cogs will drop into) in the
rear gearbox so they will be in the same alignment as you marked.
2. Place the gearbox into its position, on the trailer, to see if the chain cogs
fit into the gearbox. If so, reinstall the gearbox to the mounting screws with
the hardware. If not, rotate the shaft of the gearbox so they will align with
the cogs.

NOTE: Realignment will be necessary if the chains have been moved during the
lubrication process, or, if the chains were not in the correct position. Try to
reposition the chain cogs in the center of their travel. And/or rotate the
driveshaft, in small increments, to realign the gearbox. This step is the most
critical of all of the process. Unless it is performed correctly, the chain will
not extend the top (Road Cover), to a level position. Take your time and, if
necessary, relax and try it again, later.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2, of this section, for the front gearbox. Except, do
not permanently mount the box to the trailer. Set the front gearbox on the
ground.
4. Reinstall the connecting tube onto the driveshaft of the rear gearbox and
engage into the roll pin.
5. Take the front gearbox and the connecting tube spring tension assembly; fit
them together as you reinstall the gearbox to the mounting screws, on the
trailer, with the hardware.
6. You are now ready to use the crank and extend the trailer top. If all goes
well, you will find that there is far less cranking "muscle" required.
If this is not the case, consider improper alignment during the reassembly. Or,
the chain and/or rails may be worn, or damaged. Follow other recommendations
given for this condition as it goes beyond the scope of this document.

Copyright, 2000 Associated Medical Electronics
Use and copying this document is authorized to anyone associated with, or owns,
an APACHE trailer, as long as the document is given the proper acknowledgement
of the copyright owner.
April 9, 2000
Please report any errors or omissions to: