WHO'D have thought? If you were cruising around Oxley on a Saturday night looking for somewhere tasty to eat, you'd probably cruise right past Bashori Indian Restaurant.

Don't. Yes, it may be creating a forlorn picture in a lonely strip of shops that have otherwise bolted their doors and turned off their lights, but this little beacon is a suburban gem. Another example of the old adage you can't judge a book by its cover, Bashori looks like any other exhausted takeaway and eat-in joint you've visited since childhood.

But food-savvy friends and travellers to the subcontinent gave it the nod. So our group took command of the tiny dining room where a handful of tables line either side of the carpeted space.

A window into the kitchen at the back not only reveals the owner/chef at his special tandoor clay oven, but also the bright verdigris green paintwork of his work cave that immediately recalls images and films of India. Kashmiri embroidered cloths are framed on the walls, tables are clothed in Christmas colours and turquoise chairs have cushions.

Oh, and a Bollywood film in loop mode is playing on a giant screen mounted in the corner.

This is almost a cliche of your local cheap and cheerful, but immaculately clean into the bargain, and its four-star Eat Safe City Council rating is proudly displayed on the laminated double-sided menus.

Food comes in for similar care and attention. Fresh spices are ground on the spot, which shows in the brightness of the dishes and a lingering, aromatic punch on the palate.

Entrees come as choices of fried or tandoori. The lists aren't dauntingly long, but varied enough to suit everyone's tastes and prejudices. Crisp pappadums arrive gratis while we ponder. The fried versions of pakora, samosa and onion bhaji are well-drained specimens, by the looks.

But we opt for the tandoori treats of a naan rolled and filled with finely shredded chicken tikka and yoghurt made fresh on the premises.

Cheese for the paneer dishes is also made in-house.

The meat has been well-marinated, the spices are nicely balanced, and the naan is light and crispy.

Succulent little lamb cutlets arrive with charred edges and a marinade of ginger, garlic, lemon and yoghurt, repeated in a sauce on the side.

Glasses for water, wine, beer (frosted into the bargain) and champagne are all brought from a minuscule bar in the corner, again gratis.

A rice suffused with cinnamon accompanies our main-course curries. The pumpkin and eggplant is a traditional dish cooked with five spices including black salt, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom, all freshly ground.

Prawn saag combines fresh plump prawns with a thick spinach sauce, laced with garlic and tomato. The sauce has a pasty consistency and the flavour is nicely balanced, letting the prawn flavour and juicy flesh sing in harmony.

Lamb bashori is a special of the house, served on a shallow platter with finely sliced onion and capsicum threaded through. The base, a blend of yellow and red sauces, is rich and lustrous.

Naan breads come in a variety of flavours. The Kashmiri naan is stuffed with a melange of dried fruits and nuts and feels like sweet mango chutney has escaped into the warm, doughy bread. Cheap and cheerful has integrity.

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