Buying something can be devided into two steps. The deal (intention) and the delivery ((physical) transaction).
First step is where parties communicate their intentions (coming to a deal – offering something – paying for it).
Second step is actually delivering the item.
In the Netherlands the deal is annuled when one of the parties is unable to fulfill his/her obligation to deliver.
This can imply you have to pay for the actions that were already set in motion.

That’s what I have been told, about a century ago.

But feel free to think otherwise (other legal system?).

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You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

In this case the decision & declaration was made to be put on the list to buy one. It seems the remorse just reared it’s ugly head before the money changed hands. Maybe a technicality in some eyes… but the outcome is the same.

I think Henk4U2’s definition below sums it up nicely in fact……. .

Henk4U2 wrote:

English (US and/or UK) is not my native tongue, so I looked it up:

buyer’s remorse definition:
a feeling of regret (= a wish that you had not done something) after making a choice or decision.

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You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant

Buyer’s remorse is often referred to as the reason for cooldown clauses in purchases, where you have 24 or 48 hours to cancel a deal without penalty regardless of whether or not a payment, delivery, or signature has been obtained.

The act of buying is not the defining moment, it is the decision to commit that is the turning point, after which second thoughts can creep in. The enthusiasm leading up to the point of commitment is a separate thought process to the hindsight afterwards, either one can be a distorion of reality since different emotions are brought into the picture.

Buyer’s remorse is often referred to as the reason for cooldown clauses in purchases, where you have 24 or 48 hours to cancel a deal without penalty regardless of whether or not a payment, delivery, or signature has been obtained.

The act of buying is not the defining moment, it is the decision to commit that is the turning point, after which second thoughts can creep in. The enthusiasm leading up to the point of commitment is a separate thought process to the hindsight afterwards, either one can be a distorion of reality since different emotions are brought into the picture.

Hmmm….more likely it is self preservation, his wife will end his life if he buys another flashlight!

No remorse or wife, just decided to get a couple of camping lanterns instead.(Zanflare & BLF Ultimate later)
it IS called an interest list and although I dont usually change my mind, I didnt feel I was locked in to anything

No remorse or wife, just decided to get a couple of camping lanterns instead.(Zanflare & BLF Ultimate later)
it IS called an interest list and although I dont usually change my mind, I didnt feel I was locked in to anything

Certainly no explanation necessary, because like you said… you were definitely not locked in. And you at least had the forethought to remove your name from the list.

It just struck me as comical…. no foul meant.

In fact… I was a bit envious of your restraint. It seems I rarely, if ever; get ‘buyers remorse’ before or after a purchase.
That is not necessarily a good thing either……. ….

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You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant

Silver: The prototypes used a bead-blasted false silver anodizing with four visible dye seams on some parts, running lengthwise 90 degrees apart from each other. The seams on different parts don’t line up. Some people like it, but it’s not the bare look (or clear ano) we were aiming for. It’s difficult to show on camera, but here’s a quick view:

Grey: Another option is to do a more traditional dark grey ano, which would look nice and be more scratch-resistant, though scratches would be more visible if they happened, since silver stands out on a grey background. The finish would be like the BLF GT or Lumintop’s other anodized lights, but dark grey instead of black. Perhaps similar to the grey Emisar D4.

[example pic: any decent-quality grey or natural anodized flashlight]

Bare: Or maybe it could be bare aluminum without bead blasting, like the bare BLF A6. That was significantly less popular than the anodized version though, and shipped with a dull and often stained surface which didn’t shine until after polishing it. Different parts had somewhat different textures, too. Here’s how that looked, brand new: (click to zoom)

It would be a toss up between dark grey and bare for me. I like the milled horizontal lines on the BLF light pictured above but I’d bet that a bunch of people wouldn’t care for the “unfinished” look.

A dark grey would be a nice change over traditional black. I love my Zebralight, although I wonder how many people involved with this thread would want immediate comparisons. Standing out in its own way might be better than appearing to be a knock-off. Maybe people don’t think that way but I’d like this to be a bit more of an individual.

Also if there are going to be other materials in the future, an unfinished look would be shared between the different materials which would be pretty cool.

Silver: The prototypes used a bead-blasted false silver anodizing with four visible dye seams on some parts, running lengthwise 90 degrees apart from each other. The seams on different parts don’t line up. Some people like it, but it’s not the bare look (or clear ano) we were aiming for. It’s difficult to show on camera, but here’s a quick view:

Grey: Another option is to do a more traditional dark grey ano, which would look nice and be more scratch-resistant, though scratches would be more visible if they happened, since silver stands out on a grey background. The finish would be like the BLF GT or Lumintop’s other anodized lights, but dark grey instead of black. Perhaps similar to the grey Emisar D4.

[example pic: any decent-quality grey or natural anodized flashlight]

Bare: Or maybe it could be bare aluminum without bead blasting, like the bare BLF A6. That was significantly less popular than the anodized version though, and shipped with a dull and often stained surface which didn’t shine until after polishing it. Different parts had somewhat different textures, too. Here’s how that looked, brand new: (click to zoom)

I liked the original intention to try and show the work put into it, and it seems as if the best way to reflect that intention is to leave it mostly bare or maybe polished from bare. In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection. Here, would this do the same thing regardless of anodization by keeping the inner tube from reaching far enough? If so, I think that would make a good case for leaving it bare or maybe seeing if they can polish it. Of course most but presumably not all of us may be willing to polish it ourselves, so long as it was just to make it shinier and not because of stains. I think it’s too easy to make the clear anodization look cheap, and not all of the prototype versions looked that good, but it might be alright. The seams were different version of the clear process, not accidents, right? I have the gray d4; it’s not bad but it’s not the look this was originally going for. I think bare makes sense.

In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection. Here, would this do the same thing regardless of anodization by keeping the inner tube from reaching far enough?

In the FW3A, current travels through the outer tube, the threads, and the driver retaining ring. Loosening the body from the head does not break the flow of power. However, it does break the connection to the switch, so it can’t be turned on/off when loose.

None of that depends on being anodized. The anodizing is a purely aesthetic feature on the FW3A, and not relevant for physical lockout. Plus, the soft lockout is quicker, only takes one hand, and is probably more effective.

However, I’ve heard that it took Convoy a while to get the clear anodizing right, and even then, it seems to be so thin that it can still conduct electricity sometimes. On my clear C8, I can measure electrical contact between a bunch of different places on the outer surface of the light.

In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection. Here, would this do the same thing regardless of anodization by keeping the inner tube from reaching far enough?

In the FW3A, current travels through the outer tube, the threads, and the driver retaining ring. Loosening the body from the head does not break the flow of power. However, it does break the connection to the switch, so it can’t be turned on/off when loose.

None of that depends on being anodized. The anodizing is a purely aesthetic feature on the FW3A, and not relevant for physical lockout. Plus, the soft lockout is quicker, only takes one hand, and is probably more effective.

So you can lock both on and off; which seems fine. Yeah, I thought the anodizing didn’t matter, thanks for confirming. Means that’s not a disadvantage of bare.

In another light, the anodization lets you do mechanical lockout by breaking the connection

Just an FYI: the above only applies to lights that don’t have a PC board that the spring is soldered to. The PCB is isolated from the tail cap and completes the circuit between the negative terminal and the main body by making contact with the unanodized end of the battery tube.