A true alpine program:-combining a spectacular high altitude crossing trek with mountaineering in the Ishinca Valley – culminating in an attempt on 6034m Tocllaraju.

Tocllaraju has some sections of steep and technical climbing, and we recommend that clients have previous experience climbing on snow and ice with crampons and ice axe, and experience with belay techniques, anchor placement and descent by rappel. Tocllaraju is not a suitable climb for clients who do not have good basic climbing skills.

This is a condensed high altitude expedition and should only be considered by people with very good fitness and strength, accustomed to hiking and climbing on difficult and steep terrain. It is important to be well acclimatised to the altitude before starting this alpine expedition.

Day 01: An easy hike of 4 to 5 hours up the valley Quebrada Quillqueyhuanca from Pitec to camp at the top of the valley at Olivos (4250m). In the afternoon hike into neighbouring Cayesh Valley for close views of glacier covered mountains San Juan, Cayesh and Chopiraju.

Day 02: We start with a 2 hour hike past Laguna Tullpacocha (4300m) then follow a ascending zig zag trail climbing steadily for around 3 hours to our high campsite on a plateau at 4850m by a small lake, close to the mountain Huapi.

Day 03: We leave early & ascend to the pass Chocu 5100m. The route up to the pass offers some of the most panoramic mountain views in the Cordillera Blanca and we are surrounded by several 6000m+ peaks. There is a long descent down into the Cojup Valley where we have a pleasant flat hike down the valley to the road end where we meet our transport & drive to Huaraz. About 6 to 7 hours hiking and one hour drive to Huaraz.

Chocu Pass

Day 04: Rest day in Huaraz

Day 05: Drive 1½ hours from Huaraz to the village of either Pashpa or Collon (3400m). We then walk up the valley Quebrada Ishinca on a gently rising path to our camp at the head of the valley. 4 to 5 hours

Day 06: Climb Ishinca. A steady climb initially on a good path and then on loose rock and large moraine rock until we reach the ice. The climb is usually not very steep apart from the final 20 metres to the summit. In some years depending on the condition of the glacier there can be some short steep sections or hard ice. Return the same way to Base Camp. 9 to 12 hours depending on fitness.

Hisao Morales Enjoying Ishinca Summit

Day 07: Rest day between the two climbs.

Day 08: Climb up through moraine rock to Tocllaraju Morena Camp (5300m). It is necessary to carry all equipment. 3 to 4 hours

Day 09: Depart early to climb to the summit. The route is mixed with nice gentle snow slopes, some large crevasses & snow bridges which need to be negotiated, and some steep & exposed ridges up to 70 degrees. There is an approximately 65m bergschrund to climb below the summit which is quite exposed and the guide may fix a rope. Return back to Base Camp. 12 to 14 hours for the day.

If you know, tell us the approximate dates that you would like to be climbing and the number of people in your group, as well as if you prefer a private climb or would be happy to join with other people.