Snowmass was on G.R. Fielding’s short list when he was looking to move from upstate New York to anywhere in the United States eight years ago.

The former ski racer wound up in Boulder working for CDOT for six years before getting his dream life a little less than two years ago — a job as Pitkin County engineer, a place to call home in Snowmass Village and as many days on the slopes as he could handle.

“Last year I skied 75 days,” the 30-year-old says. “Not bad for someone with a 9-to-5 day job.”

The superb skiing is what had gotten his attention, something he’s been doing since he was 2 years old. “My father visited Aspen in 1964 with a couple of buddies,” Fielding says. “The buddies stayed, he moved back to New York. But when I moved to Colorado, he came out and visited, and we spent a lot of time in the Roaring Fork Valley. It’s just so beautiful, and I knew I had to live here someday.”

In the time he’s been in Snowmass, though, the area has undergone some major changes — changes he believes are for the better. “People always have a huge attachment to the past, but change is going to happen anyway,” Fielding says. “It’s awesome to see Snowmass redefining itself in a good way.”

More than $1 billion in redefinition began last November with the opening of The Treehouse Kids’ Adventure Center, part of the ongoing new base village project that will bring 600 new condos, as well as arts and events facilities, shops, restaurants and bars.

More than 90 ski-in, ski-out condos already are open and available for sale or rent in Capitol Peak Lodge and Hayden Lodge at the heart of the new base. And for those with some money still left in their portfolios: the 260-unit Viceroy Resort & Residences at Snowmass, a condo hotel whose units range from $570,000 to $4 million; and the Little Nell Snowmass Residences, 30 condos that start at $3.1 million.

The development, by Related WestPac, which bought the village project in 2007 from resort operator Aspen Skiing Co. and Intrawest, is scheduled to be completed in 2011. Related WestPac president Pat Smith, while battling locals over the usual development issues, has received kudos for his commitment to sustainable, green construction practices.

“You can’t make everyone happy all of the time,” Smith says. “What we’re trying to do is be creative, meet the needs of the community and make this a place where people want to come. And we want to do it in a way that raises the bar on green development, and is exciting and fresh and new.”

“I’m kind of excited for the new stuff,” says Fielding. “I’m really excited to be able to have a whole bunch of different options to eat at. It’s not going to be the same two places anymore, and people having more places to stay means everyone isn’t on top of each other.”

That’s Littleton resident Trini Jacobsen’s sentiment. Two of Jacobsen’s cousins own condos in Snowmass, and the 22-year-old snowboarder has been visiting the ski area with family since she was 5.

“There’s always been one or two really good places to eat, but if you wanted more of a selection, you had to hoof it over to Aspen,” she says. “I can’t wait to just hang out at the base and have somewhere to do the après thing right there, like at other resorts.”

Fielding says his favorite place to eat now is Artisan in the Stonebridge Inn, “consistently good,” he says, “and casual, but still feels like you’re out somewhere.”

Jacobsen’s is the Stew Pot, because of the value. “I don’t have Mom and Dad to pay anymore,” she says, laughing. “So a bunch of us come up, and we share a big chili; it’s awesome, and a little spicy, and then we get their killer bread, homemade, and a couple of salads and share. It’ll fill you up and send you out for the rest of the day.”

Bringing more to the menu

But both say places such as Liquid Sky, the lounge opening at Christmas at the base village, and Sam’s Smokehouse, a 7,800-square-foot barbecue-oriented eatery that will be open at the top of the Village Express six-pack, are just what Snowmass needed.

“I’m really psyched about the smokehouse,” Fielding says. “We needed something on the mountain badly, and it sounds like that’s going to be big and the right kind of food, casual and not too expensive.”

Last season, Aspen Skiing Co. made good on its promise to add improvements on the mountain, putting in Elk Camp Gondola, which takes beginners and instructors to the Elk Camp Meadows Learning Area, which also opened last season at midmountain. The 4-acre enclosed area features a “magic carpet” and an easy-to-navigate lift that helps snowboarders and skiers transition.

This season, the resort has added the Sheer Bliss chair, a new detachable quad chairlift that takes riders and skiers to the Big Burn area and lets them off into 700 acres of gladed, black-diamond runs and blue cruisers. The lift, clocking in at nine minutes, can carry 2,000 people per hour.

“The Big Burn is where I always start out at the beginning of the season,” Jacobsen says. “The great thing there is that the trees are so spread out, you can warm up and carve around the trees, get your winter legs back. And then it’s time for High Alpine, and especially on a powder day, The Cirque.”

Fielding likes to hit Gowdy’s first thing in the morning, a double-black diamond run off the Big Burn — it’s the steepest run, with a 52-degree pitch — that offers multiple options afterward. Hook up with Rock Island? Sun Spot? Run some tight, tight trees? “I’m a big-mountain guy,” Fielding says. “That’s what Snowmass has in a big way, so there are always choices.”

Another tip from Fielding: “Everyone skis down Possible. It gets really tracked out real fast, but the thing to know is that there are a couple of alternative lines once you get through the chute that will hold snow for a few days. So while the drop-in point won’t look great, you just have to get past there to find the lines.”

And both Fielder and Jacobsen point out that while Snowmass is famous for its 4,406 feet of vertical — the most of any Colorado ski area — and wide-open cruiser runs, the backcountry is not to be missed by advanced skiers and riders.

Insider’s Guide

GET THERE: Snowmass is 200 miles west of Denver. In the winter, it can take 3 1/2 to 4 hours to drive there. Take Interstate 70 west to Colorado 82; follow signs to Snowmass Village, 5 miles off Colorado 82 via Brush Creek Road.

GET AROUND: Snowmass has an efficient, free, year-round shuttle system that runs not only throughout the resort until late at night but also to the other three ski areas owned by Aspen Skiing Co. — Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands — 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily.

Silvertree Hotel, 100 Elbert Lane 970-923-3520, 800-525-9402, silvertreehotel.com. Ski-in, ski-out from the lovely Silvertree, which counts hot tubs, a heated outdoor pool, an inviting bar with a fireplace and spa services among its charms. Brothers’ Grille does great breakfasts and happy hours, and the village is just out the front door. The rooms look sort of like Bavarian college dorms, but you can’t beat this location. Rates: Start at $319 for two queens or one king in winter.

Snowmass Mountain Chalet, 115 Daly Lane, 970-923-3900, 800-843-1579, mountainchalet.com. A no-frills spot with a top location, the Chalet is within walking distance of the gondola, the ski school and village, and offers a free hot soup lunch daily to guests. Rooms are austere but nicely done with log furniture, and there’s a hot tub and heated swimming pool. Rates: Start at $278 for two queens in winter.

The Stonebridge Inn, 300 Carriage Way, 800-213-3214, stonebridgeinn.com. Gorgeous views of the mountain at this quiet, near-the-slopes spot, which offers warmly decorated rooms and the wonderful onsite eatery Artisan. Rates: $201-$400 depending on view and day of week in winter. Check online rates for bed-and-breakfast packages.

The Villas at Snowmass Club, 0160 Snowmass Club Circle, 800-837-4255, villasatsnowmassclub .com. Comfortable, mountain-style condos that feel like home — if your home has deluxe amenities and views of Mount Daly. Access to the best family-friendly (with adults-only areas) pool and fitness center in the area, as well as an on-site restaurant, Sage. Fully stocked kitchens, free Internet. Rates: One-bedroom condos $369-$519 per night; two bedrooms $569-$749 in winter.

DINE

Artisan, 300 Carriage Way, 800-213-3214, stonebridgeinn.com. Located in the Stonebridge Inn, Artisan sports a casual and rustic dining room that still manages to seem snazzy, with branch-backed chairs and wood tables and pretty views of the trees. The menu offers Asian and Mediterranean influences, and the setup is low-key enough to make families feel welcome.

Butch’s Lobster Bar, 264 Snowmelt Road, 970-923-7311. Lobster, yes. And don’t say no to any of the other seafood at the always-hoppin’ Butch’s, owned by Butch Darden, a former Cape Cod lobsterman who also knows how to send out a steak.

The Cirque Bar and Grill, 125 Daly Lane, 970-923-8686. The see-and-be-seen après ski joint for locals and out-of-towners, all of whom can see the place as they fly off Fanny Hill. Drink specials, live music, a deck and good burgers (order a side of house-made kettle chips) make for an irresistible combination.

Fuel, 45 Snowmass Village, 970-923-0091. The organic-local-recycled-when-possible place for a quick, filling and inexpensive breakfast, with a chalkboard crammed full of bagel options — the Santa Fe cream cheese with avocado and tomato is rightly popular — as well as smoothies and nicely made espresso drinks. A lunch wrap will indeed fit into a parka pocket for on-mountain dining, but if you’re on the mall midday, stop in for the homemade hot soups. Grab a brownie too.

Il Poggio Ristorante, 57 Elbert Lane, 970-923-4292. A spacious and comfortable spot that serves up exquisite contemporary northern Italian cuisine. Try the gamberi appetizer of garlicky ginger-glazed shrimp, and the pizzetta with Camobola is addictive. The pasta dishes are amazing. The secondi can be heavier-handed — with the sauces and such huge portions, they are sometimes daunting. The service is fun and helpful, not resort-stuffy, and the wine list is priced fairly.

Gwyn’s High Alpine Restaurant, top of Snowmass Mountain, 970-923-3311, hi-alpine.com. It’s good to have Gwyn’s back again, the on-mountain favorite that sends out consistently top-notch lunch fare, things like smoked duck and creamy seafood in puff pastry, seared salmon cakes and a beautiful buffalo burger (get it with blue cheese and grilled onions). The decor is appropriately casual for a place where people are covered in snow. Great breakfasts, and they take reservations (a wise choice) for the first seating of each meal (they only do those two).

Krabloonik, 4250 Divide Road, 970-923-3953, krabloonik.com. Caribou noisettes? You bet, and a whole bunch of other tasty stuff, such as smoked wild boar ribs and a “tour” of cheese and chocolate. For 30 years, it’s been diners and dogs snuggled together at this sled-dog kennel. You can get a ride and then have lunch or dinner, or just eat (the dinners start after Thanksgiving, lunch year-round), but we highly recommend both.

The Stew Pot, 62 Snowmass Village Mall, 970-923-2263. So ideal for families, so filling, so tasty. The Stew Pot is the locals’ joint, the place those in the know stop by for a quick fill ‘er up for cheap. Good salads, too, but the stews, packed with veggies and tender chunks of meat, are the real draw. A beer and a side of homemade bread, and this really hits the spot.

Aspen Sports, 70 Snowmass Village Mall, 970-923-6111; Snowmass Center, 970-923-3566. There are two locations of this enormous rental and retail shop: the biggest store on the mall plus an outlet at the Snowmass Center location, which means you can find some good deals in the winter (it’s closed in summer). The mall location is right next to the lift-ticket window, and if you set up your rentals ahead at rentskis.com., they’ll be ready when you get there and you get a 20 percent discount. The knowledgeable staff is extremely helpful at both sites too.

Bright and Shiny Things, 60 Snowmass Village Mall, 970-923-4666. One of the oldest shops in the Village and aptly named, it’s tiny, but packs in a staggering amount of jewelry and little gifty items. The owner tracks down unique pieces and sticks them in the window to grab your attention, and then has many more inside to peruse.

Daly Bottle Shop, 215 Main Level, Snowmass Village, 970-923-4100. You’re in a condo and suddenly realize you’re out of beer, wine, anything alcoholic. Daly Bottle to the rescue, with its extensive (some 400-plus bottles) roster of wines from around the globe and case discounts. The prices are not what you’d expect (read: reasonable) from a resort area, and there’s a nice doggie to pat too. Also inside is Grain, a sort of convenience store that sells gourmet cheeses and organic snacks that conveniently go well with wine and beer.

Wienerdog Kids Toys, 100 Elbert Lane, 970-922-0484. Compelling collection of cool, sturdy, anti-tech toys from around the world, including Poland, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Brazil, the U.K. and the United States.

PLAY

Aspen Skiing Co. (aspensnowmass.com, 800-525-6200) runs Snowmass, including the Ski & Snowboard School and Four Mountain Sports, the on-mountain rental shop. See the listings on page 6T for the stats and basic facts, and visit the ski area’s website for more information.

Nordic skiing in the Snowmass area is fantastic, primarily because of the Aspen/Snowmass Nordic Trail System, which links Aspen and Snowmass Village via the Owl Creek Trail. The Snowmass Cross Country Center (239 Snowmass Village Circle, 970-923-3148, aspennordic.com/map/snowmass.html.) is located at one end of the trail by the Snowmass Golf Course, where you can get rentals, trail maps and more information.

The Treehouse Kids’ Adventure Center, intersection of Fanny Hill lifts, Base Village, 970-923-8733. It’s hard to say who has more fun — you after dropping your kids off to get some alone time on the slopes, or your kids, ages 8 weeks and up (even teens are offered activities in the evenings). There are focused activities scheduled throughout the day and rooms geared toward each age group. Colorful and interactive, with plenty of things to climb on and engage in, the spaces are appealing and playground-like. On winter weekends, après ski, dinners and other special activities are offered.

Tubing on Assay Hill, aspensnowmass.com., 970-923-8656. Geared mostly toward kids, the tubing here is not as high, bumpy or adrenaline-pumping as at some areas, but it’s still fun, and only $15 including rental and unlimited runs. Open 1-8 p.m. Wed.-Sun., weather permitting.

As part of the Base Village’s two-year expansion, these restaurants, lounges and retail will open at the beginning of the 2008-09 season.

Buchi Tavern, across from Elk Camp Gondola. Jeff Klein is one of the founders of Aspen’s Matsuhisa, but at Buchi, he plans more affordable prices for similarly styled food: Asian-fusion family fare, with sashimi and sushi, but also skewers of meat and a noodle-shop atmosphere in the afternoon, with Kobe burgers and dumplings (opening by end of December).

The Sweet Life, in the heart of the Village, across from Performance Ski. Fans of the original in Telluride will cheer at another location of this old-fashioned ice cream shop and candy store. Upstairs is a diner with milkshakes, burgers, grilled cheeses and other retro comfort foods (opening by end of November).

Liquid Sky, at the edge of the Village, above Junk. A second-floor, indoor-outdoor, après-ski hangout, with an all-day menu and upscale cocktails (opening by end of December.)

Sneaky’s Tavern, next to The Treehouse and the Village Express six-pack. Casual fare, including pizzas, sandwiches, bar food (opening by end of November).

Junk, at the edge of the Village, below Liquid Sky. Natural and organic ingredients combined in fun ways — almost like funky fast food — served in a hip space. Owner Scott DeGraff will offer 12 types of s’mores, including breakfast s’mores and 10 types of fondue (opening by end of Dec.).

Sam’s Smokehouse, on-mountain at the top of the Village Express six-pack. Barbecue served in a 7,800-square-foot space with views of Garret’s Peak and Mount Daly. Outdoor seating and a place to grab a quick bite (opening Dec. 19.)

Performance Ski, street level of Capitol Peak Lodge. Skiwear from the Aspen-based retailer (opening by end of Dec.)

Kyle Wagner worked at The Denver Post from 2002-2014. She joined as the restaurant critic and food writer after nine years as restaurant critic for Westword. Her passions for mountain biking, hiking, snowboarding, skiing, river rafting, exploring the world — and anything that gets her out of the office — made transitioning into travel and fitness a perfect fit.