This post is a follow up to my post Here. So if you've got the book and want to use it in conjunction with the Biabacus here is a bit of info on Grahams Recipes.

Batch Sizes.

Graham lists the ingredients for 3 batch sizes, 19L, 23L, and 25L these are 'Volume at Flame-Out (VFO)'. The figures required for section D to scale correctly are 'Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW)'. The corrected figures are:

VFO = VAW

19L = 18.27
23L = 22.11
25L = 24.04

Efficiency

The assumed efficiency used in the book is 75%. This doesn't really matter as the BIABacus has auto efficiency built in but I worked it out and I've got to tell somebody.

Hops & IBU

There are no AA% figures listed in the individual recipes, instead they can be found listed in a table on page 21. There is also info on where they are sourced from and type. The IBU's or EBU's in the book are based on Tinseth. The utilisation figures used are not strictly the same as those used in the Tinseth formula so the BIABacus returns a slightly different result within a point or two. One thing to note is that GW only uses the 90 minute addition in the IBU calculations so expect the IBU figure in "The Original Hop Bill Design" section to be higher if you have later additions.

The above might make some think that these recipes lack integrity but we have the original recipe hop weights,AA% and boil times so all is good.

Nice, thanks for doing that, Yeasty! Sometimes I do a brew on the spur of the moment and I don't always put the ingredients in the Biabacus ahead of time before heading to the store. Now I know I can just grab this book and pick the 25l bill and I'll have enough for the 23 l brews I usually do. That's helpful

Looking at the Amazon reviews for the book -- seems that the recipes may be somewhat vague about how dark the crystal malts should be, and which yeasts to use. How are you figuring that out? BTW, a Biabacus for Marston's Pedigree would be heaven sent

Hi shetc,
I currently use this book for all my brews and find it excellent.
There is a sections towards the beginning of the book that lists the various malts and fermentable ingredients and has a guide as to what the EBC for each should be. e.g. Crystal Malt - Standard - 130-170 (150) EBC.
As for yeasts, it has no guidance as which yeast should be used for which beer, but a quick google can give lots of good info as to which yeast is most suitable for a particular style of beer.

This was the first homebrew book I bought when I went all grain and would thoroughly recommend it, both for the information about the various aspects of brewing in the first 85 or so pages and the long list of recipes.

I have attached a Pedigree recipe from this book.

£10.50 for lots of good info and over 100 good recipes is excellent value in my opinion. Of course other people will disagree

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Great Work Yeasty
I've just ordered the book from "The Book Depository" so hopefully next couple of weeks it will arrive.
brewdave
getting a thirst now for beer from the "Old country" and Marstons Pedigree would glug down very well just one question though why do they use white sugar? and if you missed it out and adjusted the grain bill would it make a difference.
Thank You
Regards
TT

I believe (perhaps incorrectly) that white sugar is used to bump up the OG, I don't have enough knowledge or experience to know if upping the grain to achieve the same result would make a difference. I imagine you'd still come out with an excellent brew, just with slight (perhaps imperceptible) differences to the original recipe.

If you look at the biabacus I posted earlier you'll see that in section Y the extract potential has been adjusted to reflect the characteristics of white sugar. Just in case you use this spreadsheet to mess with the grain bill; you'll want to remove these adjustments to ensure biabacus defaults are used for your malts.

A note to shetc too, I forgot to mention that the book says to dry hop with "a few cones of Golding".

Thanks brewdave much appreciated.
Think i will stick to the original to start might bump up the OG a bit.
Will give lhbs in Dunedin a call to get it shipped up for the coming weekend .. this will be be my third AG brew and i must start taking more detailed notes.
Regards
TT

Just a quick note to add that using adjuncts like table sugar (or corn sugar) will also have an effect on the final gravity (FG) too.

I think Graham Wheeler recommends sugar sometimes to help with drying the beer out. So, yes you will get a higher gravity by using the same weight of sugar than grain, but all of that sugar will ferment too.

Hope that helps.

G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life

Apologies if I have posted in wrong thread.
Marstons Pedigree fermenting well.
Just received Graham's book (Illustrated 3rd Edition 2014)
Looks Excellent
Thought i'd try the Courage Directors next i've put it into biabacus and i just wondered if someone could check it for me i would be most grateful.
Would S04 yeast be ok? or I do have a spare wyeast 1275 Thames Valley to use
Thanks
TT

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tingtong wrote:Apologies if I have posted in wrong thread.
Marstons Pedigree fermenting well.
Just received Graham's book (Illustrated 3rd Edition 2014)
Looks Excellent
Thought i'd try the Courage Directors next i've put it into biabacus and i just wondered if someone could check it for me i would be most grateful.
Would S04 yeast be ok? or I do have a spare wyeast 1275 Thames Valley to use
Thanks
TT

Graham isn't too impressed with the revised 3rd edition of his book as it was all done by the publisher and various bits have been altered without his input. at least one recipe misses out the weight of a hop edition. Over at Jim ' s Beer Kit he and others are posting about any issues

Last edited by johnaberry on 05 Aug 2014, 05:27, edited 1 time in total.

Hi
This is the latest post by Graham about his book .. seems he might have cooled down a bit lol.

Re: Brew Your Own British Real Ale (3rd Edition)- Graham Wheeler

Postby Graham » Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:33 am
I would suggest that the latest reprint (the third-and-a-bit edition) is the best buy, and probably easier to read. The content is the same as the previous (third edition); the changes are mostly cosmetic, Yes the added glossary is laughable, and has irritated me somewhat, but you can always ignore it - please do. [-o< .

Unfortunately the introduction of this latest enhanced edition has prompted the on-line muggers to start asking crazy prices for the earlier edition. From £21.91 to as much as £222.00 according to Amazon external sellers. These offers seem to be somewhat scammy because the ridiculously high-priced copies are shipped from Korea. I cannot see why or how Koreans would have copies of the book to trade, so I see it as a likely trap to grab two-hundred-plus quid and probably not supply the book, although some of these muggers seem to advertise the books without actually having a copy and then try to source a copy if someone bites. If you are set on sticking to the older edition, you will probably find a copy lurking on the shelves of high street book shops; there was an earlier copy in my local Waterstones when I bought a copy of the latest reprint.

Still cannot work out what the difference is between 'Brew Your Own British Real Ale' and 'Complete Home Brewing' is, though!

Brew Your Own is a basic book aimed directly at the beginner or intermediate brewer; easy-to-understand instructions, basic simple equipment, low on technical stuff, and a range of recipes based upon typical pub beers to make it easier for the brewer to decide upon a recipe to tackle. Complete Home brewing was intended to be a replacement for the earlier book Home Brewing the CAMRA guide. It will be more in depth, have more technical stuff, have more mathematics for those who like numbers, and probably openly challenge some of the current home-brew practices. The recipes will be generic and more varied in style.

As an aside, is it worth picking up 'Home Brewing' (also by Graham Wheeler) in addition to BYOBRA or is there an overlap? If so, it looks as though a 3rd Ed is on the way... Again, worth waiting for this or get the 2nd Revised Ed?

Home Brewing has been out of print for a good number of years. You will be lucky to find a copy and it seems likely that you will need very deep pockets if you do.
G.W.

Full thread here http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/view ... 9cefa6c4b1
The only missing bit is on the Boddingtons Mild last 10 minutes addition which are blank just write them in 19 litres 7grams 23 Litres 9grams and 25 Litres 9grams.
Looks to me like a pretty good book good layout etc and decent harder wearing cover
But thanks for the heads up
TT

Last edited by tingtong on 06 Aug 2014, 22:07, edited 1 time in total.

And back on the Courage Directors I have decided to go with this .. bumped up the OG a little and probably go with the S04 yeast Fingers crossed.
Was talking to our local craft brewer today a very friendly chap and he said he was quite willing to give me some of his yeast just bring a container down this is his website http://scottsbrewing.co.nz/
Roll on the weekend
TT

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Last edited by tingtong on 06 Aug 2014, 22:34, edited 1 time in total.

Alright, I took brewdave's Marstons Pedigree recipe and made a few alterations -- please let me know if I did this right or not.

1) Converted from PR1.3 to PR1.3K BIABacus,
2) Adjusted for my kettle dimensions,
3) Added 1,030 grams of leftover Rahr 2-Row to grain bill at the expense of the pale malt (Maris Otter) and
4) Bumped the OG from 1.043 to 1.053 cause I like alcohol.

I really had no idea if 3) above was the right approach to use up the leftover 2-row.

Thanks guys!

Steve

BIABacus PR1.3K - Marston Pedigree - shetc.xls

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hey shetc
you pointed something out that i didn't do.
Convert to PR1.3K BIABacus. (Doh LOL)
My Marstons pedigree is just about finished when i took an OG reading it was 1.066 way above what i had expected I did bump it up a bit to give it more of a kick I just thought I'd read it wrong.

I've got my Courage Directors 10 minutes into the mash now.

I put the same details in the "K" version and the grain bill was quite a bit smaller so I think the OG on this one will be more than originally expected.
Oh well you live and learn though pretty sure it's gonna turn out tasty.
Good thing I like alcohol

That looks so drinkable absolutely gorgeous.Well done
Will have to post a picture of mine when i can get to drink one next week.
Been trying Grahams recipes versus Clone Brews and have to say so far Grahams are easier and simpler and have turned out better.
Can't wait for his New Book.
What sort of Final Gravity did you get?
TT

Finally got round to posting a picture.
Drank the last bottle tonight, on the whole not bad haven't drunk this for some years now, could have been a bit smoother and sweeter I bottled on the 16/08/14 and I think I should have left it 3 months before drinking as the last few bottles were very good.I had replaced the Whitbread Gouldings for williamette.
For my next brew stricter temperature control on the mash and fermentation will be the order of the day.
Jamil's Extra Yellow will be the next into my newly built chamber.
TT

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Last edited by tingtong on 19 Nov 2014, 17:58, edited 1 time in total.

You might find this post of interest, it is a discussion around the use of table sugar in Graham's recipes and includes Graham himself contributing an interesting as to why it is there in some of the recipes and what he would replace it with.