Singlespeed & Fixed Gear"I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five.
Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

So instead of dropping at least 600 and not having any fun with playing/fixing a new bike, I've decided just to try and make the best of my bike. Right now I have a 91 Schwinn World Sport. It's not too bad because its either a 50/52 cm frame, I'm only 5 6. I just haven't had any luck with finding a nicer frame to convert. So if anything, I can always put these parts on a newer/better frame.

I'm tired of messing with the old school style of bottom brackets. I'm adjusting it nearly every two weeks now. So I realized I can spend somewhere around 30 dollars to just get a cartridge style bb. Then today, I realized the current crankset is biopace and kind of just sucks. So I might as well get a more legitimate crankset.

Might as well beef up my gear ratio. I thought I was running 42/15 but only 40/15. So I'll need a new cog, and then I might as well switch over to 1/8 inch chain.

Your crankset isn't biopace, only your chainring. Is it an odd bcd? If not, you can just replace it. I'm assuming a 91 World Sport has a decent aluminum crankset. Anything reasonably priced is no more or less "legitimate" -- you're basically just looking at swapping for a crankset of similar quality. (And by the way, there's no point in throwing a track-specific 144bcd crankset on such a bike anyway, not that it sounds like you were planning on it.)

For the bb, if it needs constant adjustment, there's some fundamental problem with the bb or your installation. But a cartridge bb is somewhat lower maintenance, so if you want one, you should be able to get a good fit with your current crankset.

Do I understand you're running a fixed 3/32" setup already? If so, why switch to 1/8" if it means replacing already functional components.

And what's wrong with 40x15 gearing? Sounds like you didn't even know it was 40x15, so if it didn't ride poorly, what's better about 42x15?

I'm not trying to get on your case, but it sounds like you're looking to drop some cash on what's essentially a lateral move. If you're keen on a more "track" setup, put this cash into the fund for a track build.

I wanted to standardize on 3/32" with 130 BCD, so I chose this setup from Speedgoat:

Sugino BB3 Bottom Bracket Set 103mm length $32.88

Sugino RD48 Single Speed Crankset 170mm $86.30

Sure, it is road, but I have two other fixed bikes, and I like to swap wheels and cogs. The RD48 includes the ring and bolts, so that isn't a bad price at all.

I would get something like a DA cog--- certainly would not cheap out on a $10 cog.

I scoured ebay, and everything is overpriced these days. Anything track or fixed related is run by pro-shops. Most road cranks are going for a premium (like "vintage" square taper stuff), and you might have to buy bolts, etc. which will nickle and dime you up to the level where you could have bought something new and cheap. Call me paranoid, but I purchased a used bike once on ebay where the crank bolts were completely stripped (and I had to saw off the crank). Used cranks can be a bit dicey.

I didn't mean upgrading to 1/8. It just seems that if I'm going to get a new crankset, I might as well buy a new chain instead of the original one that I just shortened.

So, just based on bcd size, that 110 is smaller. The iro would be better in that sense.

The current bottom bracket just doesn't want to stay locked in place. It ends up getting loose after about two weeks. I've repacked the bearings and replaced the axle. The cartridge bb will just make it easier to maintain.

The current crankset sucks. It's has 165mm crank arms but the whole thing is pretty bad looking. It has some sort of grey paint finished that's rubbed off in areas from my shoes rubbing. I'm trying to make this bike not as much of a ***. I'm looking to get some new parts that are going to be worth swapping around to other bikes.

40/15 isn't that bad, but it explains why I'm bouncing like crazy trying to go faster. A little bit higher gearing would help with that from what I've read. Most of these cranksets are 46t, and 46/15 seems like it'd be a little high. I think I have a surly cog right now though, which is a decent one I think.

Overall, I'm trying to make this bike a better conversion and have parts that are going to be worth swapping into another frame possibly at some point.

I wanted to standardize on 3/32" with 130 BCD, so I chose this setup from Speedgoat:

Sugino BB3 Bottom Bracket Set 103mm length $32.88

Sugino RD48 Single Speed Crankset 170mm $86.30

Sure, it is road, but I have two other fixed bikes, and I like to swap wheels and cogs. The RD48 includes the ring and bolts, so that isn't a bad price at all.

I would get something like a DA cog--- certainly would not cheap out on a $10 cog.

I scoured ebay, and everything is overpriced these days. Anything track or fixed related is run by pro-shops. Most road cranks are going for a premium (like "vintage" square taper stuff), and you might have to buy bolts, etc. which will nickle and dime you up to the level where you could have bought something new and cheap. Call me paranoid, but I purchased a used bike once on ebay where the crank bolts were completely stripped (and I had to saw off the crank). Used cranks can be a bit dicey.

I would highly advise you to stay away from this setup. The bb is garbage and you still get a 45mm chainline WITH a 103mm bb, which by the way is 4mm shorter than any shimano cart you can buy.

I didn't mean upgrading to 1/8. It just seems that if I'm going to get a new crankset, I might as well buy a new chain instead of the original one that I just shortened.

So, just based on bcd size, that 110 is smaller. The iro would be better in that sense.

The current bottom bracket just doesn't want to stay locked in place. It ends up getting loose after about two weeks. I've repacked the bearings and replaced the axle. The cartridge bb will just make it easier to maintain.

The current crankset sucks. It's has 165mm crank arms but the whole thing is pretty bad looking. It has some sort of grey paint finished that's rubbed off in areas from my shoes rubbing. I'm trying to make this bike not as much of a ***. I'm looking to get some new parts that are going to be worth swapping around to other bikes.

40/15 isn't that bad, but it explains why I'm bouncing like crazy trying to go faster. A little bit higher gearing would help with that from what I've read. Most of these cranksets are 46t, and 46/15 seems like it'd be a little high. I think I have a surly cog right now though, which is a decent one I think.

Overall, I'm trying to make this bike a better conversion and have parts that are going to be worth swapping into another frame possibly at some point.

If you have the money just get something decent - sugino 75/campy record/dura ace track and be done with it. Those cranks will last you a really long time.

I don't have that much money and I don't think I'll ever want to spend that much on my bike.

I just want a more modern bb and crankset on this bike that won't be complete throw-away parts. Is the sugino XD or iro crankset decent? Is there something better in that price range or are those cranksets just garbage? I assume the iro can't be bad if iro bikes are good and thats's what they use.

If I had a bit more money to drop, would Sugino Messenger cranks be good?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but bigger bcd is better? Like around 130 is what is considered good? Also, I'm a bit confused about chainline, what is ideal for fixed gear setups? I can't seem to figure that out from reading sheldon brown.

On the lower end, I think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between much of what's been listed and what you're already using. It sounds to me like it's the appearance rather than the performance that sucks, yes? Can you post a pic? Have you considered polishing the current cranks?

I'd still like some input on IRO vs Sugino XD. Anyone else have opinions on the SRAM S300? Are all of these better than stock cranksets, I'd like something that is worth putting on a different frame in the future.

If I decided to drop more money, the Sugino Messenger would probably be the next step up?

I'd still like some input on IRO vs Sugino XD. Anyone else have opinions on the SRAM S300? Are all of these better than stock cranksets, I'd like something that is worth putting on a different frame in the future.

If I decided to drop more money, the Sugino Messenger would probably be the next step up?

IRO vs Sugino XD is like crap vs crap. The s300 is a external bb crankset, sram doesn't make a good 'track' crankset, s300 included. What part of the previous suggestions don't you understand? Fixed gear cranksets fall into two categories, crap and not crap.

Nobody mentioned anything about the IRO Or Sugino XDs. Maybe that question was misunderstood?

The only thing I was recommended was around 300 dollars. I'm not going to spend that much on a crankset, maybe that was misunderstood?

So ignoring 300 dollar recommendations. What is the best "crap" for around 125 dollars? (Crankset and BB)

Should I rephrase this and say fixed gear road bike? I don't care if it's track specific. If it's a single chainring, I don't see the point in dropping more money for track specific riding as I won't be riding in a velodrome.

Lots of the bikes in the post your bike forum that everyone seems to think are nice seem to have similar cranksets to the ones that I'm wanting. Even if it is the sugino messenger, which I don't want to buy but what you still consider crap here but elsewhere seem to be "good" cranksets.

IRO vs Sugino XD is like crap vs crap. The s300 is a external bb crankset, sram doesn't make a good 'track' crankset, s300 included. What part of the previous suggestions don't you understand? Fixed gear cranksets fall into two categories, crap and not crap.

You seem to want not crap at crap prices.

So what is your opinion of a good track crankset? SRAM makes the Omnium, which many considers over other cranksets.

Found a 42 tooth chainring. Made ghetto spacers by cutting up old chainring. Forgot to compensate for thicker chainring. Had to file down the backside of chainring bolts and put a dent in the frame... just barely enough clearance from the frame, like 1 mm. 0_0 But I'm no longer using biopace chainrings and now I just have a single chainring. The chain tension is much better now and easier to ride.

Sounds like a winner to me. If you decide it looks too fugly, I'd look into polishing it. Because seriously, all the other entry level cranks you're looking at probably won't perform any better and you'll just be burning cash.

Forget the elitist attitudes about fancy cranks -- you don't need them. "Road cranks" are built for abuse, and if you ever move on to a tight, stiff track frame, then maybe you'll want to consider a 144 bcd crankset.