Wimpy Wednesday: The Coco500 hamburger

It’s hard to improve on perfection, so Loretta Keller doesn’t even try at Coco500. She’s been serving the same burger for 19 years, starting at Bizou, which morphed into Coco500 seven years ago. In fact, just about the only thing that has changed is the price, according to the chef.

Keller gives full credit to Judy Rodgers at Zuni Cafe for the inspiration for her burger, which is simple, pure and absolutely delicious. In the newfound celebrity of white tablecloth burgers, many people forget about the Coco500 version. It’s truly a standout on the menu, like many other menu items such as the beer-battered fried green beans (a MUST order), the baked salt cod brandade and truffled squash blossom flatbread.

Here are the specifics on this stellar burger. See you at lunch because it’s not on the dinner menu.

COCO500 HAMBURGER ($14)

Meat: Chuck is used for the burger; the meat is cubed, generously salted and peppered and then allowed to sit overnight. The next day it’s ground and loosely formed into 7-ounce patties with a 80 to 20 percent lean-to-fat ratio. The meat is cooked on a hot gas grill over lava rocks so the outside gets a bit crisp.

Bun: Focaccia dough is used to make the buns. The cut side of the buns are toasted to order.

Toppings: This is a plain, simple burger, but you can add sharp cheddar cheese (which I recommend) or grilled onions for $1 each.

Accompaniments: Every burger comes with house-pickled onions, cucumber pickles, lettuce and tomato. Dijon mustard is served on the side. The plate is rounded out with house-made, waffle-cut potato chips.