NO HEAT BLOWING, NO WATER FLOW

I recently had to have a new serpentine belt installed. On the drive home the car blew no warm air, and the temp gauge was pegged hot. The top hose was very hot, and lower hose cool to the touch. The overflow tank was boiling and shaking and radiator cap was very hot. I changed the thermostat (old one was very stuck closed) and now the temp gauge will stay in the middle area, but still identical symptoms. Blockage some where or heater core clogged? Thanks much.

I took the top hose off and warmed the car. Coolant mix flowed from block out of top exit tube---tells me the pump is moving the water as gravity could not do that. When it starting to get very warm the coolant mix seems to go straight to the overflow tank. Clogged radiator symptom? The water pump pulley spins freely and makes absolutely zero odd noise. My jeeps and chevy trucks made it easy to tell the pump was bad? SHould I remove the radiator and have it professionally flushed for the next step?

Thanks much for your input and patience! Just thought of something with pump. It pushes water from the block to the top rad hose then through the rad and into the block through the lower hose and t-stat--correct? Or am I missing this part? Also to bleed this one do I raise the front of the car and leave the cap off as it gets warm? I did not locate any bleeder valve on this car.
Thanks again!

Step 1Drain the coolant from the radiator. There is typically a drain plug on the lower corner of the radiator. Removing it will release the vacuum and allow the coolant to drain into the drain pan.

Step 2Connect the coolant flush kit adapters to the upper heater hose. There are two sizes in the kit, and they splice into the heater hose on the top of the engine. Cut the hose in the center, and attach the T-shaped fitting to each end of the cut hose with a hose clamp. The plastic of this piece can be weak, so do not tighten too much.

Step 3Tighten the drain plug on the radiator.

Step 4Attach a garden hose to the adapter using the yellow fitting provided, and turn the water on slowly. Too much pressure will damage the engine, so just a quarter turn or less will give enough pressure to bleed the system. The radiator cap, still unscrewed, will be the primary exit point for the fluid in the coolant system, so align the drain pan accordingly.

Step 5Allow a few minutes for the water to flush the system completely. The fluid will turn clear when the water reaches the radiator cap. Give a few more minutes to ensure all of the coolant is evacuated.

Step 6Turn off the water and remove the garden hose from the adapter. The kit comes with a cap for the adapter, making it a permanent fixture on the car for later flushing.

Step 7Replace the radiator cap, then run the car for five minutes. This will remove the pockets of coolant still trapped in the crevices of the engine. Turn the heater on full, to get out the coolant still in the heater core.

Step 8Shut off the car, and let it cool. Drain the radiator again, and repeat the process of flushing the system with the garden hose. More contaminants will be visible in the drained water. Repeat the flushing procedure until the water coming out is totally clean.

Step 9Replace the cap on the adapter, and drain the radiator one last time. Fill the radiator with coolant, not mixed with water, until it is full. Check the level on the reservoir overflow tank, and fill to proper level.

Step 10Run the car for 10 minutes to mix the coolant with the water inside the engine. Check the overflow tank for several days and fill to the proper level, as there will be pockets of air that will be forced out while the car is driven.

Did you make sure they didnt route the belt on the wrong side of the water pump pulley. It does fit both ways. I have had this problem and that was the solution. Also the bleeder valve is kinda by the thermostat housing.