Tips for Starting a Tractor in Cold Weather

When the temperature drops, getting an old tractor to start is harder than ever. Cold snaps can also be when you need your tractor the most, and have the least patience for engine trouble. Here at home, we use a Farmall M to haul firewood, a John Deere 520 to blade the driveway, and a Ford 5000 to run our generator when we’re out of power. We depend on these old tractors, and sometimes they need a little TLC to get running when it’s below zero.

Here are three tips for getting your old iron running, even in the cold:

Make sure your battery is fully charged. Cold batteries don’t work as efficiently as warm ones, so you need all the juice you can get! You can also warm the battery up to room temperature inside, then take it out to the tractor when you’re ready to get to work.

Warm the engine – a block heater is ideal, but an electric dipstick and/or a magnet heat pad for the oil pan can do the trick, too. You’ll be most successful with this method if your tractor is in the barn (and sheltered from the wind) to begin with, and it can be helpful to drape an old blanket or canvas drop-cloth over your tractor as insulation.

When all else fails, a small amount of ether can often start your engine. While ether is controversial and certainly not ideal, sometimes it’s absolutely essential. We find that cheaper starting fluid does less damage (because it contains less of the active ingredient, ether). Used sparingly, a can of starting fluid is a valuable part of my cold-weather toolbox. .

Give these tips a try next time you need to start an antique tractor in cold weather. And let’s all hope that spring will come soon!

15 Comments

Boy if Grandpa ever caught me using ether in the Farmall or Case, he would reach down from Heaven and bat me across the head. Never had a problem with either tractor with temps as low as -20. I do however, make sure in the fall that all the timing is spot on and batteries fully charged.

Mike, that’s why the post says that when all else fails, use a small amount of ether. I’m glad your tractors start well for you, even in the winter! Keep them tuned-up and you will continue to have success with them starting.

I agree ethanol is garbage and I hear they’re raising the level across the country next year to 15% (currently it’s 10% in the Northeast but in the Corn Belt they already use 15%). Here is where to buy ethanol free gas in every state: http://www.buyrealgas.com/

Personally I do NOT think you need it! I use high test gas (91-93 octane but still 10% ethanol) in my ’52 Ford 8N tractor which I use almost every weekend in the summer to bus hog or haul logs and all winter long to plow snow in Western Maine and have never had a problem. I did notice when I used to run regular (87 octane) that the gas actually turned yellow in the glass sentiment bowl if I would leave it for several days without running it so. When it’s real cold I put a hallonen job light right night to my intact manifold / carborator and let it warm up for a few mins (usually while I have I give the 6v battery a 6 amp charge) and she fires right up!
I actually use STA-BIL gas from going bad on me over the winter so there’s my two cents

When you type in “Engine Block Heater” to the main search box on the Steiner tractor site, it takes you right back to this page. So, you recommend it; does Steiner even sell them? If so, how do you find them on the website?

Gary,
We do not carry that part. I am sorry for the confusion but our search system on our STP website also incorporates the information on our blog. This is done to try and help people with questions as well as find parts. You should be able to find a engine block heater at your local TSC.

If you want it to start good, start with an Oliver! My old girl lights right off even at -10 inside the barn. A hot coil and plugs gapped a little long gives a big fat spark. Using fresh gas means you are using the winter blend which is more volatile and vaporizes better at low temps. I think many who struggle are suffering the effects of slow cranking that is characteristic of 6V systems and weak batteries. A 12V conversion can be very helpful. In old tractors that cannot tolerate multi-viscosity oil,( such as 10W-40), switching to a lighter weight for winter eases up the load on the starter and lets cold oil flow where its needed without building excessive pressures. Check your manuals, you might need to drain that old straight -30 weight and run something lighter. ( If you can find it!)

Block heaters can be a double edged sword. I know a number of smart folks who believe they have the undesired effect of drying the cylinder walls, which makes start up rough on cylinders and rings. They often do a poor job of warming the oil, leaving you with substantial drag and sluggish lubrication. Oil heaters can coke the oil if not chosen properly, but they can be a big help. A salamander pointed at the tractor for a few minutes to warm block, pan, carb, and the air can also be a big help if you have the time and are blessed with a barn or shed for the machine.

Hello to you all. Fixing old engines on Access equipment for a living I use lighter gas (not petrol sorry English) for petrol engines as they convert petrol engines to run on the stuff anyway and it is not as bad as starting on Ether. Also for starting Diesels I use WD 40 or similar freeing spray. Starts the engines fine without damaging the bores. Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas. Regards Richard

Thinking of my older cars of my youth, I remember that they had a combination to start. Usually it amounted to something like two stomps on the accelerator, half choke and start or something similar. So far I have been unable to figurer out the combination for my 49 8N. I have had the engine rebuilt from the crank up. High test gas, new battery, etc. It still requires cranking for what seems like forever. Just did a complete tune up, still same game. Any thoughts?

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