Got the Morgan Carbtune and fixed it all up....Problem I have is that I only get movement in the rods for cylinders 3 & 4. 1& 2 don't move at all. I changed the rubber tubes around and they all work on 3 & 3 so it's not the rubber tubes.

OK tried all of that...I did the upside down test and whatever I did I couldn't get the two carbs to less than 9cmhg between them. The front carb is hovering around 16-17 and the back one is around 25-26. I tried the balancing screw at every setting and it doesn't make any difference. tried adjusting idle mixtures..no joy there either . I have the bypass screws all the way in on all 4 barrels..

There's your problem then, and probably the source of all the observed misbehaviour!

Both pairs of butterflies should be very nearly closed at idle, and the whole point of balancing is to make them move in unison.

I guess the linkage on the front carb has been disassembled at some point and not put together correctly. At this hour (6:20am) I can't remember how the linkage is connected to the throttle axle, so I can't tell you exactly how to fix it, but I don't think you need to take the carbs off.

I do believe you are running Stromberg single barrel carbs in which only 2 tubes will work, 1-2, and 3-4. Furthermore you wont see the butterflyvalves as they are behind the slides. You are only balancing 2 lines

one thing i did notice was that when i turn the carbtune upside down and before the engine is switched on the 4 cylinders all read about 16 ....when i get the engine running ...cylinders 3 & 4 go up to about 25 but cylinders 1 & 2 don't move at all no matter what I do.

Ok so I got it so the butterflies all look to be in the same position...problem now is that cylinders 1 &2 go right up to the max on the carbtune and 3&4 seem really low. I guess it's the balancing again right? but the butteflies seem to be in about the same place.

Since you have it running with all butterflies in the ballpark it is time to go through the balancing procedure. Turn the balancing screw - the one with the yellow gunk on it in the picture - in (clockwise) to bring the vacuum on 1&2 down in relation to 3&4. Small adjustments should make a difference quickly. I don't think you should have to have the carbtune upside down to get a good reading.

It would be so much easier to help if I could stand next to you and the car, but unfortunately you are 7000 miles and 9 hours time difference away... :-)

Ok I have them all lined up pretty much....here's some other interesting stuff...

1. When I pull the throttle lever in between the carbs it seems to stick sometimes and rev up and down for no reason..only slightly...sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere?

2. I think my timing is way in advance...I loosened the distributor but even twisting it doesn't make enough difference..what should the setting be? and also, how do I set the timing properly ( i have a timing light)?

1. No reason to suspect a vacuum leak, you would have seen that with the carbtune. Do you have a proper return spring installed from the throttle linkage to the air filters? The springs in the carbs are not strong enough in themselves, this makes for some interesting driving if you don't get the right spring installed (I have tried).

2. Are you still running points? Check them for wear and clearance first - or better yet throw them out and replace with a Pertronix unit. Idle should be somewhere around 10 degrees, 28-29 degrees at max advance.

I'll check the springs but did you replace yours with something else? Ie not stock.
Also, can you walk me through setting the timing? I want to make sure i'm doing it right. I have pertronix ignitor with flamethrower coil and the standard Lucas distributor.

I'll try as best as I can to walk you through it, beginning with the return spring. There should be one spring at the back of each carb, but these are not strong enough to pull the throttle cable all the way back, so there must be a third spring, marked with the red arrow in the first picture.

Unless the ignition is less than 2 degrees off, you should leave the nut pointed to by the blue arrow alone, and loosen the distributor clamp (green arrow) just enough that you can turn the distributor. Don't loosen too much, or the distributor will pop out, leaving you fiddling for a while to replace it. It is wise to mark your starting position with a scribe or pencil in case you suddenly get a lot of movement (happens easily). Rotating the top of the distributor towards the cylinders will retard the timing, away will advance it.

I recommend that you stop the engine between adjustments, since over advancing it while running will cause flames to spit out through the carbs - in close proximity to where your face probably is at that exact moment...

These are your timing reference marks. If you have a dumb timing gun like I have (no dial on it), the mark on the crankshaft pulley (red arrow) should line up with the "10" mark (blue arrow) when you point the gun at the pulley and pull the trigger while the engine is idling (inductive pickup clamped around #1 plug wire). Revving it should make it move close to the "30" mark, but not above. If your timing is WAY out (as in not firing at all), marking the notch on the pulley with some brightly coloured nail polish stolen from your wife will make it a lot easier to spot during the flash.

Sorry for the out-of-focus shots, it was the best my phone would let me do today.