What is different about your DIY USB2 cable compared with a standard USB2 cable presumably they are both A male to B male.

Cheers

Paul

Paul hi,

I copied this out of an earlier post. The cable is just a lose plaited one made from seperate sliver solid cores with ptfe insulation. Connectors are standard USB 2 solderable items from Maplin.

"When I was using a synchronous usb interface (a much modded m audio transit) I tried a lot of usb cables and they did make a difference. The best setup by far was a diy unshielded woven cable with 3 hot wires and 2 earth all 0.5mm silver. The cable was just under a meter with only signal, no power. It beat all comers and made a noticeable difference to sound quality."

Wire core count is two for signal live, two for signal earth and one for power earth, five in total the cable does not have +5v connection. Apart form the hi harshness mentioned above with the NOS its always been much better than a standard cable.

(in the same USB 3.0 port) the sound device (Phasure dac) disappears and it is impossible to install the driver again,

Hi Juan - I think you should say here that the NOS1 just can't be found. I mean, when on a same port the driver has been installed once (in your case via a USB2 cable), that stays. So "won't install again" can not be in order (unless you explicitly uninstalled it of course).

Signal is to be connected, signal ground is to be connected, shield is to be connected. +5V is allowed to stay out, but preferred to stay in (ESD protection stuff).

Don't mess with the shield; Don't connect it differently from how it is in USB2. Notice though that I never looked at the topology of USB3. Don't connect ground to the shield and think to be done with it. Check the DC Offset to be sure that is not mangled with.Don't use USB hubs for this connection, although I can inagine that USB3 can handle it.

(in the same USB 3.0 port) the sound device (Phasure dac) disappears and it is impossible to install the driver again,

Hi Juan - I think you should say here that the NOS1 just can't be found. I mean, when on a same port the driver has been installed once (in your case via a USB2 cable), that stays. So "won't install again" can not be in order (unless you explicitly uninstalled it of course).

Peter

Hi Peter,

Ok, the NOS1 canīt be found. I unplugged the USB 3.0 cable, turned the NOS1 off, plugged it again etc. and no way to find the NOS1. I did it in all the possible ways...When I use a USB 2.0 cable in place the USB 3.0 cable the NOS 1 is there since the first moment.

Signal is to be connected, signal ground is to be connected, shield is to be connected. +5V is allowed to stay out, but preferred to stay in (ESD protection stuff).

Don't mess with the shield; Don't connect it differently from how it is in USB2. Notice though that I never looked at the topology of USB3. Don't connect ground to the shield and think to be done with it. Check the DC Offset to be sure that is not mangled with.Don't use USB hubs for this connection, although I can inagine that USB3 can handle it.

Peter

I use only one a standard USB 3.0 cable as it is sold in the store with no modification at all and an adaptor.

Is there any other thing I can do to "find" the NOS1 when I use the USB 3.0 cable?.

I don't think so. USB behaves different from non-USB means, and I know what had to be done to let it all work by one means of "coding". The "paused pin" is right in the middle of that.

In the mean time "we" can't do anything with it, because at least I can't follow how you all connect things, while in the other mean time it looks quite sure that as many means have been applied as attempt are being made.

So, what about a 100% clear recap from someone who has it working ?

Thanks,Peter

PS: Maybe it is not a good idea to uninstall the driver first; when it is "physically installed" more needs to happen than when it is installed automatically from already present sources, and don't ask me how that works out to real merits, while doing these undoubtedly strange things in the first place.

USB3 connection is via one of the two motherboard-backpanel usb3.0 ports. USB3 is driven by a ETRON 168 chip from the PCIe bus on the motherboard. Driver is updated to version 1.0.0.105 from Gigabyte's mobo homepage.I did no specific settings in the BIOS on the USB or memory side nor any OS related tweaks.

I use the default NOS1 simple USB cable from this port to the NOS.

Apparently the driver 'sees' the NOS, but has trouble streaming from the XX application.

regards, Coen

Logged

Audio PC: XXHE PC with RAMdisk. Music PC with i5. Power cable PE not connected, together with nos1 and poweramp in separate "audio" powerstrip.

USB3 connection is via one of the two motherboard-backpanel usb3.0 ports. USB3 is driven by a ETRON 168 chip from the PCIe bus on the motherboard. Driver is updated to version 1.0.0.105 from Gigabyte's mobo homepage.I did no specific settings in the BIOS on the USB or memory side nor any OS related tweaks.

I use the default NOS1 simple USB cable from this port to the NOS.

Apparently the driver 'sees' the NOS, but has trouble streaming from the XX application.

regards, Coen

Coen hi

I have also seen this "pin" error come up one time when I was hot plugging the NOS USB to try a different cable but normally even when hot plugging it just does not happen.

Assuming that the drivers are all correct for the USB port, my guess is that it may be a difference in the way that your mobo port detects if the connected device is USB 2 or USB 3 compatible or an issue with the mobo USB 2 backwards compatibility.

You could always try one of the cheap PCIe cards that I have used which seems to work ok.

Its just a StarTech branded card if you need to find a local retail source.

Does anyone tried to connect the USB 3.0 port to the NOS1 with an USB 3.0 cable (with an adapter)?.

I wonder if you have the same problems as me to find the NOS1 with this kind of connection.

Best regards,Juan

Juan hi,

I received a USB 3 extension type cable and adaptor this morning. All works ok from the PCIe USB 3 card. First impressions of sound are very posertive, all the detail and relaxed presentation of my home made cable but with more polished highs. A Very enjoyable sound. I am thinking of soldering a usb2 b type connector to the cable to iliminate the need for and adaptor.

Not just a minor tweak but IMO a big one. Indeed extra detail, much more bass and indeed very tight. In a way there is bit more stereo or that is caused by something else. The sound is warmer. I am very pleased with what you have discovered!!!

Today Iīm going to reinstall all the OS in my music Pc and thus eliminate the partition I have in the main hdd. I want to keep things as simple as possible and btw see if I can solve the problem with my USB 3.0 connection.

Well another issue arises, if the USB 3.0 makes a difference in the sound quality why not could have an influence also the different kind of USB cables, as Joachim (Christoffe) said?