Would stick with the plywood don't get me wrong I like the piece of mind of once and done but at the same time I want to enjoy it and if there comes a time for future mods or repairs either through weather disaster or accident keeping it simple is always best and we got the caravel to enjoy and if I get too invested in it will it still be fun? Just my thoughts.
Cliff

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Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?

Bar none the finest you will find is Gillfab 5065 an aircraft grade sandwich panel made from unidirectional fiberglass reinforced epoxy facings bonded to an aluminum honeycomb core. Used as flooring in commercial airlines cargo aircraft. Once installed as a direct replacement sized sheet you will never have too worry about rot, mildew, softening, delaminating, etc, etc. It is the final solution for all existing problems as seen here on ASF. Yes a little pricey - But the final fix for the total life of your baby. I was a little hesitant to do so, But after having a H2O fitting break while on a 4CU rally during New Years I committed and am ecstatic at the performance, quiet, warmth, weight savings I have received from doing so. I have pics somewhere and will attempt to find for all too see the results during installation and finish.

Shivtik
Did you put flooring over the Gillfab subfloor? Is there a suitable adhesive for applying Pergo flooring to it? Is there any issue with fastening to the Gillfab with sheet metal screws?

I covered my floor with Mohawk synthetic padding and than layed Camelot, Aventura in Abalone over it using double sided carpet tape on both pad and carpet. Works great and has never moved since application. So far it had been great. Screws? Yes I have used them on the internal wall trim to floor plates and in the galley area on the bottom vertical that supports the cabinet. It holds screws and rivits quite nicely. I had pergo layed down 5+ years ago and just did not care for the product, cold and dusty in my view. I enjoy the feel of warm carpet on the tootsies 1st thing in the morn during my java sessions .

Shivtik
Thanks much for the quick response. For the joints/seams between the Gilllfab sheets, what did you use for sealant? Did you attach the sheets only at the edges? If you attached the sheets to the frame out in the "middle" of the sheet expanse, how did you treat the fastener heads?
Thanks in advance for your patience with my questions.
Owen Bennett (aka morganobenn)Morganobenn@gmail.com

I just posted to another thread about this exact subfloor alternative wanting opinions. At this point in my research, I think using the aluminum honeycomb is much more expensive than plywood, but as noted above could be a fix it and forget it substitute. Here is my post:
Hi There -

I would like to get some thoughts on this subject, but with a different type material. We too are going to have to do some floor repair on the front plywood of our Minuet. We plan to only do the 1 panel at this point and I have been looking into this:

http://www.cptpanels.com/materials/core-materials/

The company is located in Canada, but I called their toll free # and talked to an engineer there. The cost is wayyyy higher than plywood, like hundreds instead of maybe $25 per panel, but I wonder if it might not be worth it for front/back. According to the engineer, it should not matter if the floor is of mixed material (in other words, composite front/back w/plywood middle). What do you guys think.Note: on the referenced page it does list recreational.

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Leigh (IB Aluminated)

"When a great ship is in harbour and moored, it is safe, there can be no doubt. But that is not what great ships are built for." by Clarissa Pinkola-Estes, author of ‘Women Who Run With the Wolves’

It's 45% lighter than the equivalent plywood sheet. It just as strong and machines to shape like a dream. It's mold and mildew free, not just resistant and will not ROT!!!!!! EVER!!!. It also doesn't expand or contract anywhere near the extent of plastic or polymer based sheets.

I did a major comparison before choosing this product and decided on Coosa as it was Marine grade, would never break down and you also don't have to cover with epoxy as you would plywood.

I personally used the Bluewater 20 as a subfloor replacement on my 310 turbo diesel as the furthest space I had to span was 14".

If I were to order a new trailer from Airstream today I would buy sheets of Coosa and deliver them myself to the factory for them to put into my trailer.

The cost was $275.00 per sheet Canadian with 11 ply Marine 5/8" Meranto board being around $180.00. I wouldn't know what it would cost in your area (probably a whole lot less) and you would have to contact Coosa LLC to find the nearest distributor (probably a marina as I did). If the marina works with Coosa as mine did, they could tack on your order with theirs for reduced shipping.

I bought 3/4" material as it was in stock with 5/8" possible but not a stock size. I didn't mind that it was an 1/8" thicker than the OEM 5/8" as it created a 1/8" ledge, and since water doesn't tend to run upstream, (there are a few exceptions) it worked out just fine.

Yes it's pricey but worth every cent in piece of mind knowing that should a leak occur, I don't have to worry about it. Also should I decide to sell my coach I would get every cent back, as I could show a future owner that I used only the best materials to renovate my coach.

Would you pay more for a Coosa replaced subfloor if you were looking for a trailer or coach?

OK. I'm officially worn out trying to research this. Or even try to find a suitable replacement for good ole plywood in my area. Seems here in Colorado, everybody is happy w/standard plywood for subfloor work. Haven't found anyone close carrying the Coosa.
I did come across this, which I hope might come in handy for others and am trying to find the Advantech in a 5/8" thickness here in the Denver area. So far, only 3/4" is available. Anyway, see what you guys think:?

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=6670

I was also really interested in another thread here at the AS Forums that talked about Nylosheet made by a company out of Georgia. Got in touch with them and got a quote, but the cost to ship it here is as much as a sheet of the stuff! Anyone from the Georgia area taking a vacation out here to Colorado interested in hauling a couple sheets of 4x8? Can we talk?

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Leigh (IB Aluminated)

"When a great ship is in harbour and moored, it is safe, there can be no doubt. But that is not what great ships are built for." by Clarissa Pinkola-Estes, author of ‘Women Who Run With the Wolves’

When using a synthetic board what are you doing about the 1/2" splices??? I've just purchased some Nyloboard and need to figure out how to splice below it. I'm buying sheets as it is the only thing I can get my hands on for months and can handle by myself. Thanks for the help!

Not sure what joinery method you are refering to by the term, splicing. I used a half overlap which was achieved by setting up a router with a wing cutter 3/4" larger than the bearing underneath it. Once I had the cutter cutting just a hair larger than half the board I would cut a top lap and a bottom lap leaving about 1/32 gap for sealant or adhesive.

You could buy a 1/4" wing cutter bearing bit and cut a slot in both boards and insert a nyloboard splice as well but I found the half overlap was much easier to install.

Anybody used Densilite XP (also called boatboard)? or HDPE puck board. Both are available more easily here in Canada than Coosa or Thermolite, and are cheaper. Also the boards can be custom welded to fit over the entire trailer floor, and cut to order to your template, how cool is that?
Densilite is used for floors in pontoon boats and house boats and has a no slip texture but can be covered.
I am mulling over what to go with for our Full Monte. I know I am not going to use ply.

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__________________TV: 2007 Jeep GC Laredo dieselToy: 1995 Jeep YJExperience is what you get from not having it when you needed it.