FF is at 42 and freezer is -4 degrees(bad). If i unplug for a 48 hrs. it will stay at 0 and 34(good) for about 2 days then go back to 42 and -4(bad).Lots of condensation in upper left corner and ice buildup in black slot in picture. There is also ice behind behind foam/dampner.

Tray below compressor fills with water when frig is unplugged (see rust) and

then tray overflows and drips where you see the blue tape at least a few cups maybe a quart..I've seen TwwinDragon post but am not allowed to reply. Did the kit below fix his problem? Is this what I need to fix my problem? Can I do this myself? I'm very good with tools and fixxing things, do the instructions in the kit below guide you through all the steps to install it?

sounds like a classic Defrost problem ..When the Fridge fails to cool, post a picture of the Evaporator Coils inside the Freezer.and check both Door Gasketscheck the Gaskets using the George Wa$hington test.Close the Door on George and slide him around to check to be sure he stays snug.

Seals are perfect. You can't see the evap. coils without taking everything apart.. Lots of ice at air entrance and exit to evap. coils (water drops in picture).

Grand Master
Okay, so I bought Icing Kit WR49X10021 . I've now been searching for some instructions for the install and I come across GE Icing Kit # AP2636547 on another web site. Do I have the right Kit I puchased from you? There kit list my Frig. Monogram ZISS420DRCS and is more expensive.

Isn't the main part of the Icing Kit the Heater Tray you see in the above pic?. That is the original Heater Tray, and it has the same resistance across the leads as the new Heater Tray.
Am I to believe that a couple of pieces of insulation in the kit will stop my icing problem?
When manually defrosted Temps quit working properly in 2 days.

I checked Defrost Heater and Terminator by Jumping J9 to J11 = Defrost Heater comes ON.
When I go in Diagnostic Mode using touch-pad (as in above diagram) and do Defrost Test (14) = Defrost Heater NOT Working.
All Thermistors check out good (P) in Diagnostic Test

Yes the evap thermistor tells the computer when to defrost. You can test thermistors manually at the J1 connector. For the defrost (evap) thermistor, unplug fridge, remove j1 connector, test ohm across pin 5 (counting from left to right) and Pin 4 on the connector. If your thermistor is covered with ice, you should get a reading of 16.6k ohms.+-5% . If your themistor is not covered with ice , place the probe part of the thermistor in a cup of ice water (mostly Ice) and wait 5 minutes (trying to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees) then you should get a reading of 16.3 ohms +-5%

Thanks Durham for the testing procedureTest is right but OHM readings are off. Evap. Thermistor is and should be reading 30 ohms or 10degrees (digital frig. read-out says 0 degrees). Perfect!GE Thermistors are :https://skitch.com/a...hermistor-chartThermistors all check out good.

Time for a new board I guess?

Now that I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up. Trying to keep the Misses happy till the new board arrives.

... I know how to jumper J9 to J11 to turn on Defrost Heater. How often and for how long should I keep the jumpers on to keep condenser from icing up? ... ... Just looking for some kind of baseline till I get a grasp of the time for the condenser to ice up.

... while the Cold Control is turned OFFmaybe about 10 minutes once or twice a day ..

Thanks Durham for the testing procedureTest is right but OHM readings are off.

Wanna make a bet? Check your chart for 32 degrees. 16.3 K as stated. Using ice water method is usually best as you have a controlled temperature and not relying on temp readings provided by a board that may be getting temp readings from a faulty thermistor. Also stated 16.6 only if the thermistor is covered with ice and therefore insulated from freezer temps...but again, ice water method is best. Also If your thermistors are of the old style (using a black sealant where wires enter thermister as opposed to completely white thermistor) change them anyhow.

OOOPPPP'SS I thought new board fixed problem!
This may be a different problem or related?
Everything worked fine for 2 weeks since new board was replaced now my FF is 40 degrees and my freezer is at -16 .

Should I replace all 5 themistors.?
They are all the new style already and they check out PASS on the Diagnostis Test.

No cutting necessary. Put them in Ice water (mostly ice as you want to achieve reference temp of 32 degrees f) one at a time and test them on the j1 connector on the mainboard. Counting from left to right, put your black lead on the 5th pin, and your red lead on pin one and test the ohms. This is a fresh food thermistor. Pin 2 is also for fresh food but only if your fridge has two fresh food thermistors ) Pins 3 and 4 are freezer and evap thermistors respectively. Back probing the connector is usually easier.

For the past 3 years I've been jumping the J9 to J11 terminal on motherboard to defrost the coils. This needs to happen every couple of days and takes about 2 hours. If I put my fingers in the dampner door I can break out the ice, also at the intake vent I can see ice. Temps are approx. -8 and 40 degrees when I resort to jumping defroster every couple days.

I've replaced the mother board (twice) and the water tray with heater below the coils (it drains fine). When I put frig in diagnostic mode everything seems to check out okay. The Climate Control Drawer has no led readout and has not worked since before defrost problem.

I got a spare refrigerator yesterday. I'm ready to fix this problem NOW. Where do I start? Replace all Thermistors? Replace all heaters?