So I have 2008 nitro with the 4.0. It has 180,000 has been maintained as normal and never an issue one until now it has started stalling at idle a few months ago. More so with the AC on but does time to time without it. Its not showing any codes what so ever.. We stopped driving it when all this started but have worked on it regular and im completely stumped. Ive changed the TIPM box along with each relay and fuse in it. Had it flashed aswell, new EGR valve, pcv valve, plugs, coil packs, throttle body, alternator, battery, air filter, fuel pressure test good, even ran seafoam through it. Only rhyme or rhythm i can see is the AC on but has to run for a good 45mins before first stall then after that is more frequent then i can turn air off then it will run an hr or 2 before stalling or not at all. when it stalls it doesnt cut power everything stays on just the engine quits. Any thoughts would be much appreciated . please help. Thank you in advance..

Yea its a pain.. thanks for the response. Yea timing belt is good. I looked up the MAF and cant find any info about it for the nitros. the parts store can on get a MAF adapter, whatever that is. I read on here somewhere it has a few other sensors that replaces that one MAF. Far as the IAT i havent thought of that where is it located?

No problem. When i had it flashed he said he took the MAP out and it stalled so he said it ment it was doing what it was supposed to. But Idk... the IAT sounds like a good next step. i just do get what would make it stall mainly when the air is on. It idles clean all the time but its like if it drops below 550 or 500 is dies. Sometimes it will even catch itself and stay running.

When the idol drops like that, the A/C clutch engaging may create just enough drag to kill it.
I know my RPMs drop at idol when the A/C kicks in.
Did you run seafoam into the intake? You can induce it thru the brake booster vacuum hose as well as spraying it direct into the TB.

You probably already tried this but... when all else fails reset the computers. Neg(-) battery disconnect for 10 minutes.

When the idol drops like that, the A/C clutch engaging may create just enough drag to kill it.
I know my RPMs drop at idol when the A/C kicks in.
Did you run seafoam into the intake? You can induce it thru the brake booster vacuum hose as well as spraying it direct into the TB.

You probably already tried this but... when all else fails reset the computers. Neg(-) battery disconnect for 10 minutes.

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Unfortunately ive did the seafoam in the brake booster and the Neg disconnect.. keep it coming though i feel like its gotta be stupid simple.. tomorrow im def gonna check the ground you mentioned.

The Service manuals I have make no mention of a means to make an adjustment. It is controlled via the computer programming using the sensor readings.
You mentioned in the first post a new throttle body. Was it new or junk yard?
Reason I ask is it does not take much buildup in the TB throat to reduce airflow at idol.

The Service manuals I have make no mention of a means to make an adjustment. It is controlled via the computer programming using the sensor readings.
You mentioned in the first post a new throttle body. Was it new or junk yard?
Reason I ask is it does not take much buildup in the TB throat to reduce airflow at idol.

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Was a new TB everything is new parts as i felt used could put me back in the same boat.

Sorry for the mis-type. The Nitro has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)sensor not a MAF.
IAT (Intake Air Temp)is in the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.

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So today i replaced the MAP after an hr it still stalled. They said there wasnt a IAT sensor there was a air charge temp sensor and a air temp sensor. Any idea which is closest? These nitros are nuts with all the sensors. Any info will be appreiaciated.

Boy was I was really having a bad night... LOL
What I meant to say was IAT intake air temperature.
Here is a Pic of one. (not stock intake air tube) but the location will be close.
It is to the right of the "E" in brute force.

I also forgot we are dealing with a 4.0
At the front of the intake are 1 maybe 2 actuators.
One is the Short Runner Valve, and the other is the Manifold Tuning Valve.
They removed the manifold tuning valve in later years.
The short runner valve is on the passenger side.
Anyway, these sometimes get gunked up with carbon, etc. and will cause problems and eventually a CEL. Pull them out and clean with carb cleaner. Make sure they do not stick when moving them.