Don’t expect ultra-orthodox, Flushing-caliber Korean at Mrs. Kim’s — the restaurant offers a play on the cuisine, one that’s obviously rooted in knowledge, but one that also includes inventions like fava beans with mint and Korean chile, a “kim dog,” and, yes, a burger. One of the best dishes there is a classic, spruced up just slightly.

The cylindrical rice cakes in spicy sauce, otherwise known as dukbokki, have an appetizing starchy chew, slicked with a sweetish chile paste sauce and sprinkled with nutty black sesame seeds. The additions of a tangle of raw scallions and just-cooked sugar snap peas are welcome refreshments, lending their green crunch.