Other than the missing neon stripes out front, the first thing you notice at the new and reimagined Fog City is its openness.

Rather than the two narrow rooms that gave the original Fog City a dining car feel, the new one is airy and spacious, with a bar in the center and booths wrapping the perimeter of the triangular space.

When Fog City Diner closed in the spring after 28 years, founders Bill Higgins and Bill Upson worked with architect Michael Guthrie to revamp and renovate the former San Francisco hotspot. He added more windows, warm leather on the booths and wood accents on the ceiling.

Upson and Higgins also brought in chef-owner Bruce Hill (Bix, Zero Zero, Picco and Pizzeria Picco) to oversee the new menu and kitchen, which is headed up by Erik Lowe. The open kitchen's wood oven and 7-foot-long grill figure prominently in the offerings.

The menu features snacks like beer-battered long beans with ponzu. The vegetable section encompasses starters and sides like butter lettuce salad with pepitas, radishes and smoky avocado dressing; and roasted baby carrots with black garlic mole, toasted almonds and cotija cheese.

Seafood and meat plates to share include an alder-planked half trout, served with fingerling potatoes skewered to look like a fish skeleton, topped with the fish's head.

Making the transition to fall, stewy Berkshire pork cheeks arrive on a pool of white polenta with Hatch chiles, wild mushrooms and bacon-braised romano beans.

Sixteen wines are on tap and by the glass, and the in-progress cocktail list promises to include a Fog City Milk Punch made with clarified milk, bourbon, brandy and dark rum.

For dessert, look for made-to-order crullers and frozen custard that comes with a choice of toppings like Flavor King plum sauce and frothy egg yolk caramel.