Author of

Macaron Tutorial

Thursday, December 17, 2009

If you were to visit our house right now, you'd be wondering if Christmas is really just a a week away. Oh, we have a small tree up in the living room but that's about it. No present wrapped up underneath and a few of Christmas decorations here and there in the house. We have gifts almost all ready to go for everyone but we can't leave them out since they are of the edible kind. The pupps have a tendency to get in trouble with bows and ornaments!

I like the feeling of turning the kitchen and dining room into some Santa's Edible Gift Workshop. The oven is on all the time, boxes, papers and ribbons cover most of the table. I also appreciate putting my feet up and taking in the spirit of the holidays by digging my spoon into of these Yuzu Cremes Brulees.

I could feel sad that we are not going home this year for the holidays but I don't. We are grateful to be busy at work with little time to think about being away from the rest of the family. B's family has always made me feel loved as their own, especially during big holidays. Some friends drop by for tea and cookies and some friends send goodies like Todd and Diane gifting me with a precious delivery of fresh yuzu for Christmas.

When they sent some Calamansi limes they also included three little yuzu fruits. I guess they heard me sigh "more please!" all the way to California and sent more. The first three yuzus yielded enough juice to make two doll house sized yuzu curd tarts. We ate them as soon as they came out of the oven and I never got the chance to take pictures. I got this new box the same day B. was asking me for creme brulees. In the 12 years we have been together I have never figured this out: every year around Christmas, he asks for cremes brulees. He's not picky mind you, any flavor will do and he loves trying new things. Hence, some of the yuzu fruits ended up being used for custards.

If you have never had yuzu, think of it as the Rolls Royce of citrus fruit. Every time I am lucky to get some, I can't help but feel like I am holding a clementine sized grapefruit cloaked as a lemon, fragrant like Meyer lemons, seedy like a mandarine and as easy to peel as a tangerine. See what I mean...

Just as I hold yuzu in high regards, B. gives cremes brulees close to a royalty status around here. Hence it seemed fitting to combine both in one dessert. Todd and Diane sent me two types, yuzu and Kabosu and the latter were perfect to impart as much flavor as possible to the custards. They have more juice, less seeds and rind than yuzu. I zested the Kabosu, pureed the flesh (minus the seeds) and threw all this in the cream base of the brulees, much like as if I were using vanilla. I also let the batter steep overnight in the fridge, exactly as I do with straight vanilla bean creme brulee.

I was worried B. would frown but he asked for seconds and declared these the best ones he's had so far. Believe me when I say, he has many years of Creme Brulee research attached to his resume! And they are gluten free which is perfect for me as I can eat my share too!

Thank you to all of you participating in Menu for Hope, either as item donors or item bidders, or both. You guys are awesome. Check the progress of the fundraising here and keep spreading the word! Thanks!

Yuzu Creme Brulees:

Makes 6-8

Note: Since yuzu isn't the easiest thing to find, I've come up with a concoction to get pretty close to the taste. I am still experimenting but so far the following has been very promising: juice and zest of one lemon, zest of one mandarine and enough grapefruit flesh to take the whole mixture to about 1/3 cup.

Creme brulees are easy to make and require few ingredients. They are however considered royalty because they need to be handled properly to achieve the right texture. They should be smooth all the way through and once caramelized on top, they should have 3 levels of temperature from top-hot to middle-warm to bottom-cold. I say "should" because let's face it, the creme brulees police isn't going to come after you if they are not what a red-faced angry French chef would expect "perfect". (talking from experience, believe me). Anyways...

For the sugar crust:1/4 cup to 1/2 cup granulated sugar (50gr to 100gr)

In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until pale and thick (3-4 minutes). Reserve.In the meantime, place the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to asimmer. Add the citrus mixture. When the cream is hot, slowly pour it over the reserved egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent the yolks from curdling. Let cool to room temperature and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

When ready to bake:Preheat the oven to 350F (325F if using convection). Place 6-8 ramekins (depending on size) in a deep baking pan. Set aside.Strain the mixture into a 3-4 cup measuring container, preferably with a spout as it makes it much easier to pour. Discard the yuzu or citrus mixture. Pour into the ramekins until about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the rimPlace the baking pan in the oven and pour enough hot water to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.Bake for about 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool before removing the ramekins from the pan.Refrigerate until completely cold. When ready to serve, sprinkle each creme brulees with 1 tablespoon sugar and caramelize the tops with a blow torch (or use the broiler in your oven on high - the results are not quite the same though).

H.,I love your description of the 'yuzu'...your detailed account left no room for interpretation, as I have never heard of yuzus before! Inspiring!

ps: I attempted your macarons...they pretty much turned out except that some almonds chunks remained. I didnt pulse long enough. Needless to say, I will try it again, as they were delightfully scrumptious. I do wonder, is there supposed to be a stickiness to the macaron? It did diminish the day after.

What a treat! I wish I have access to yuzu in my city but it's so hard to find here in Philadelphia. I do have a bottle of yuzu syrup. Do you think I would be able to sub that for the zest in the filling?

I've never gotten the perfectly caramelized top. I always end up burning the tops or heating it all the way through. How many minutes do you put it under the broiler? The tip about steeping the batter overnight is superb! Thanks!

Alexandra: you can always sift the almonds to remove lumps. Macarons are supposed to be crunchy on top and soft middle to bottom.

Chaitali: I never use a broiler as I find it tends to cook the cream even more. My instinct would be to turn it on high, keep the door cranked open and watch until the sugar gets caramelized. Depending on hot your broiler is, maybe 5 minutes? It varies.

creme brulee is a favourite of mine and with a newly gifted blow torch I can't wait to try some. the yuzu sounds like such an interesting flavour and I just adore the first photo the blue, white and speckled 'snow' on the edge of the plate - delightful!

from BAtoParis: you can find Calamansi, also know as Calamondin in ethnic grocery store. I do when I get home. I have not seen yuzu there on the other hand.

Quinn: the skin of a yuzu is much looser on the flesh than that of a lemon or lime. As I wrote, they are as easy to peel as a tangerine. I cut strips of skin, blanched them for a minute and twirled them on a bamboo skewer.

I love, love, love the flavor of yuzu. It's something I grew up with, coming from Taiwan then lived in Thailand for 6 years. Though the yuzu I find in San Francisco are often quite disappointing- not enough juice nor sweetness.

This creme brulee does look amazing. Since I've finally mastered flan, I've always wanted to try creme brulee as my next step. But I guess like you've said, without a blow torch just isn't quite the same. Quite unfortunate!

I love yuzu! You can't get them here in fresh-fruit form, which is annoying. I use the next best thing, which is a pasteurised juice. Last thing I made was a yuzu steamed custard, and I don't think B even managed to try one (yes, I love them that much :P)

How lucky, Helen!! We couldn't get fresh yuzu (and I've never even heard of Kaboshu) in Melbourne! Even though we could get shiso leaves, the other Japanese pantry staple. Yuzu creme brulee sound so refreshing and light!

Thank you for all the gluten free treats and desserts you have been featuring lately. My son is celiac and it's been difficult to make him sweets that were gf but that was just because I failed to recognize that so many are actually gf to start with like creme brulees, panna cotta, custards, fruit salad, etc...

YES! Creme brulee deserves royalty status!! That stuff is the silky goodness of true love *sigh*. And thanks for 1) reminding me I have yuzu and 2) showing me ways to use it! You are fearless with new ingredients whereas I sit and fret over them, afraid to waste them on something that tanks. Is it me or is it always sunshiny in your kitchen? mais, bien sur!! :)

Ooooo my favourite citrus! I still remember one of the first times I visited your blog and found the Coconut Pana Cotta with Warm Lemon Poppyseed Cake and Yuzu Mandarin Sauce and you wrote me back telling me you can get yuzu juice in a bottle! Thanks for your friendship and Happy Holidays!

This looks great. I planted a yuzu tree over the summer and now have a small crop ready to go. 'Twas the night before Christmas, and I'm going to make this my Christmas dessert, and my first foray into this fabulous fruit. I'm sure it will be as good as it looks.

I did this, and it was great. This was my first time using yuzu, and it is absolutely terrific. It has a taste and aroma (BIG aroma) somewhere between a lemon, lime, and orange, with much more tang. The possibilities are endless. Preserved yuzu (like you would make preserved lemons) should be great; yuzucello (like limoncello) would be awesome; candied yuzu skin would be a natural. Any more ideas on how to put yuzu to work would be appreciated. And thank you, Tartelette, for your post.

I'm fortunate enough to live across the street from a Yuzu tree and have always wanted to bake with the fruit. Thanks so much for posting this excellent recipe! I made 1/2 a batch last night and they were fantastic!