Stravaiging and Camping the Scottish Hills and Islands

Beinn Dubh – number one target. August 2014.

Over the summer while thinking about this Harris trip there had been a list of walks that we wanted to do – Todun, Sgaoth Aird, Conachair, Clisham, Taran Mor and Beinn Dubh.

The top of the wish list was Beinn Dubh – which looked like an amazing viewpoint for both the Harris Hills and the beaches of Southern Harris.

Hazel’s injury meant we left it as long as possible to let her have the best chance of managing it. With the impossibly good weather running out on Thursday we headed out to Losgaintir on Wednesday morning.

Ferry leaving Tarbert

There’s parking at the cemetery at the road end, although this got busy quite quickly as the morning proceeded. Signed access to the beach.

This is one of those beautiful Hebridean beaches.

Luskentyre Beach

H at Luskentyre:

Luskentyre and Taransay:

You could simply make your way straight uphill from Losgaintir – we wandered north round Aird Grodainis. Some nice camping pitches away from the crowds here – as well as fine views of the hills.

Harris Hills

Pony and Sron Scourst:

Clisham and Uisgneabhal Mor:

There are a few fences around, heading round to NB 075 010 allowed gated egress through all of them.

A heathery ascent to about 200m, the views open up to the beaches. It is well worth ensuring that you get to Beinn Dubh’s summit as close to low tide as possible – the view of the uncovered sand is the prime draw here.

H on ascent:

The best view is from about 300m west of the summit, at about 460m. Sat down here to have a bite to eat and enjoy the sunshine and views.

This is a real 4 seasons viewpoint – if I lived on Harris I reckon I’d give it a visit several times per year. Imagining the hills with a bit of snow or a camp up here certainly whetted the appetite for a return.

At this point we split up – the original plan had been to use the W10 Leverburgh-Stornoway bus to allow a traverse from Uabhal Beag to Losgaintir. Hazel decided to head down by the route of ascent while I carried on.

It’s a pleasant wander along the spine of this hill, although the best point is undoubtably the summit and surrounds.

Dropped down mossy ground to Beinn Losgainteir – could see Hazel descending slowly.

Clisham from Beinn Losgainteir

Carried on – heard some ravens calling. As always it’s worth looking to see what they are up to, in this case mobbing a Golden Eagle.

Eagle and 2 ravens:

Spotted a Hebridean speciality – Moss Carder bumblebee.

Moss Carder bumble-bee:

A 134m ascent to Ceann Reamhar. The beaches are obscured by Sron Godamuil but the angle on the Harris Hills is a little better from here I think.