I would quote him out to convert the zone to a spray zone.... Look how small of a area that is.. Rotors are designed to shoot 30' for a reason. Just move the heads to the grass, add a couple more lawn sprays and add a couple 1812's for the shrubs. done in a few hours work.

hydrozoning in a area this small is pointless and not cost effective nor justiable in any kind of water savings when dealing with an Existing system

I would quote him out to convert the zone to a spray zone.... Look how small of a area that is.. Rotors are designed to shoot 30' for a reason. Just move the heads to the grass, add a couple more lawn sprays and add a couple 1812's for the shrubs. done in a few hours work.

hydrozoning in a area this small is pointless and not cost effective nor justiable in any kind of water savings when dealing with an Existing system

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An inspector would hang us for that where I am located.

And tilting heads is a hack move, the turf area is already small and it would cause the heads to overspray and kill uniformity.

And tilting heads is a hack move, the turf area is already small and it would cause the heads to overspray and kill uniformity.

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You have inspectors that come out after you work on Existing systems? Really?
So say the customer has one shrub that needs to be watered and there is a lawn zone next to it. You really won't adjusted the lawn zone to hit the shrub or make any kind of adjustments such as adding a spray head, mp, drip?? Your going to tell the customer it's going to cost $xxx to add a zone , install 300' of piping to wrap around the house because it HAS to be hydrozoned or the inspector will murder you?

I'm all for perfection on your own install, but when your working on an existing hack system to begin with.. Were not miracle workers dude

The plant looks like an a Azalea or a boxwood

And what are you talking about uniformity? Look at it now lol . In my opinion ( Any can back this up?) The more you dial down a rotor, the more you are disrupting it's DU .
I said leaning the heads back as a temp solution until it gets fixed . How is that hack? I mean you were only scheduled there to come out and repair a broken sprinkler head the homeowner chopped up with the lawn mower on another zone and you then you ran through the rest of the system to ensure everything is working properly.. So your saying your going to stay there for the rest of the day and charge the guy half a leg to fix this for him with out his approval because anything else to do is considered hack?

You have inspectors that come out after you work on Existing systems? Really?
So say the customer has one shrub that needs to be watered and there is a lawn zone next to it. You really won't adjusted the lawn zone to hit the shrub or make any kind of adjustments such as adding a spray head, mp, drip?? Your going to tell the customer it's going to cost $xxx to add a zone , install 300' of piping to wrap around the house because it HAS to be hydrozoned or the inspector will murder you?

I'm all for perfection on your own install, but when your working on an existing hack system to begin with.. Were not miracle workers dude

The plant looks like an a Azalea or a boxwood

And what are you talking about uniformity? Look at it now lol . In my opinion ( Any can back this up?) The more you dial down a rotor, the more you are disrupting it's DU .
I said leaning the heads back as a temp solution until it gets fixed . How is that hack? I mean you were only scheduled there to come out and repair a broken sprinkler head the homeowner chopped up with the lawn mower on another zone and you then you ran through the rest of the system to ensure everything is working properly.. So your saying your going to stay there for the rest of the day and charge the guy half a leg to fix this for him with out his approval because anything else to do is considered hack?

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It is a model home. That means it is in an area of new construction, with inspectors crawling around everywhere.

Trust me, I see where you are coming from on this. Most people around here would mount the rotor on a 12" schd 80 riser and call it good.

If I did not have to worry about an inspector coming out I would convert all the rotors to MP's to lower the GPM on the zone, move the truf MP's out to the edge of the bed. Then add some shurb sprays in the beds, all to run on the same zone.

The fact someone used rotors in that area is bad enough to begin with, no reason to keep making it more ghetto just because it wasnt good to start with.

Also- we dont have to wrap 300' of pipe around the house. We dont manifold systems, which means we have a pressurized main that runs around the house. If that system was here all you would have to do is tap into the main line, run about 10' of pipe to the bed and your done.