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If you want both fans to run at the same time it is simple once the fan installation is complete. First turn the power OFF at the electrical panel. Run a piece of 2 wire (with ground) romex (cable) from the exiting fan to the new one. Then connect all the black wires together, all the white wires together and all the ground wires together in each fan. Connect the ground to the metal housing on the new fan. (Three different connections in each fan). Make sure to use the proper cable connectors and wire nuts. Turn the power back on and the existing switch should turn on both fans. If you have a red wire in the original fan it is a little more detailed. Post again if this is the case.

Trust Me ...I am an electrician. There is no way (legally) to do what you want to do with the wiring that exists. One of two things can happen at this point...1) rewire the switch leg with 3 wire cable (Type NM-B aka Romex with 3 conductors + ground). This involves some skill and maybe some drywall repair. OR 2) buy a remote control for your ceiling fan. They sell them at most home improvement stores, and they install fairly easily in the motor housing of your ceiling fan. The transmitter runs off of batteries, and doesn't require special wiring to operate. Your wall switch will have to remain ON for you to operate, but the remote can handle the rest, like dimming your lights and fan speed control. Good luck!

Hot blk on bott . Other blk on top left and red on top right . On other sw put blk light on bott and other blk on top right and red on top left . To figure out which is lgt and pwr sepeate wires there should be a romex with b,r,w, and bare copper and other wires should be a romex w/ a b,w,and bare copper.

I don't think you can do what you are trying. The fan & light are on one circuit. Probably, originally, there was only a light fixture there. The fan/light is on a single circuit and the remote does the controlling of both units.
Now, you are trying to install a fan control and light dimmer but you don't have wiring for each separately.
You might be able to use one of the dimmer controls to adjust the output to the fan/light combination, but you can't control them individually, if I understand your wiring.
Gary

The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar. White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'The black hot wire connects back to the circuit breaker.

For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.

The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the
way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs
are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.

Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.

So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.

Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.

The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.

Here's what to do. 1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?

2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.

The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.

Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle

If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.

Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.

OK, your new switch will require the use of a neutral wire. So you will have to do what is called a pigtail. You will have to twist another white wire in with your other white wires to attach your neutrals to your switch. Note: white wires are called neutral not common. Hook the wires that were originally hooked up to your LINE to your HOT (Black) on your new timer, and the what was originally LOAD up to the new timer LOAD. SO as far as wiring all that will change is your white wires that need to attach to your timer NEUTRAL.

Hi .. with only bone switch for this combo unit, the connections would be like this .. all ahites together with the romex white , all colors, red, black, blue with the romex black, all greens together IF you had more than one switch , then the red, black, blue would be connected separately to one switch eack and separately to a 4 wire romex from the switch to the combo unit.

get another electrician, he doesn't know what he is doing, this is not easy to figure out without diagrams of the connector that shows exact wire colors and where they go or went in prev installation..

The black and white in the fan box are the main power and neutral for normal (low speed) of the fan. The two reds are the signal wires. It is basically a switch loop. You will actually need a total of 4 conductors (plus a ground) in order to run the high and low speed of the fan. The four conductors consist of 1) power from one switch to power up the fan, 2) neutral, 3) signal going to second switch, 4) signal going back to fan from second switch in order to run high speed. Without four conductors you can still run the high speed only by tying the two red wires in the fan together. This would be like always having the second swith in the on position. Hope this helps.