Neither of those will work on the G-1 barrel. There originally where no bayonets made for the G-1's when they where contracted out to Germany. However, when the Germans sold the G-1's to Turkey the Turk's made/modified bayonets to work on them. You will need a Turkish G-1 bayonet.

I think a Type one is correct on the receiver, with carry handle cut. Dude please dont put anything other then a DSA on that kit. If you can have a ffl work with you, you can call DSA directly and have one shipped for around $365.. thats dealer cost. Where are you located. Go to FAL File and study up on the headspacing, Its a pretty easy build, youll need a rec wrench and a barrell vise to do it without boogering iy up, there are other ways, but I wouldnt do the jack leg way on that kit. Id let you use my wrench and vise, before I would let jack leg it. Study up on timing, and indexing/shoulder shaving, and dont be suprised if you need to do one or the other. Everyone here will try to answer anyquestions you have. DSA is the only forged US rec. If you can get an Imbel, that would be good also, just more money

Please note: I'm being picky because you seem like you want this rifle to be as correct as possible. Your kit looks beautiful, top 1% of all G-1 the kits I've seen.

The butt stock is not entirely correct for your rifle. It is an STG style wood stock. The STG 58 was the Austrian (not Australian) version of the FAL. It looks like an Ironwood Designs produced stock but can't be sure. If Ironwood, it is one US part. The correct butt would have a metal plate on it. The Israeli butt plate is the closest you can get if you can't find the real deal. As mentioned before, the Turks got these rifles from the Germans. The Turks rode them hard and most butt plates are worn out.

The handguards in the picture are cheap Century Arms made guards. They are pretty much perfect copies of the metal handguards but a little flimsy. They don't get hot as hell like the original metal handguards so that is good. Honestly, the metal handguards dent easily so these are not all bad. The STG-58 metal handguards are pretty much the same as the G-1. I think DSA still has them.

That bayonet may be ugly but it's correct for the rifle. Probably made in a cave. There never was a factory bayonet for the G-1.

The flash hiders on these look cool but will wreck your accuracy. They don't fit tight enough. It may seem tight but it ain't tight enough for something that hangs on the end of a barrel. They also scratch the heck out of the Parkerizing when you remove it. Quick detach my ass, it took me an hour to get mine off, mostly trying to not ruin the finish.

Please note: I'm being picky because you seem like you want this rifle to be as correct as possible. Your kit looks beautiful, top 1% of all G-1 the kits I've seen.

The butt stock is not entirely correct for your rifle. It is an STG style wood stock. The STG 58 was the Austrian (not Australian) version of the FAL. It looks like an Ironwood Designs produced stock but can't be sure. If Ironwood, it is one US part. The correct butt would have a metal plate on it. The Israeli butt plate is the closest you can get if you can't find the real deal. As mentioned before, the Turks got these rifles from the Germans. The Turks rode them hard and most butt plates are worn out.

The handguards in the picture are cheap Century Arms made guards. They are pretty much perfect copies of the metal handguards but a little flimsy. They don't get hot as hell like the original metal handguards so that is good. Honestly, the metal handguards dent easily so these are not all bad. The STG-58 metal handguards are pretty much the same as the G-1. I think DSA still has them.

That bayonet may be ugly but it's correct for the rifle. Probably made in a cave. There never was a factory bayonet for the G-1.

The flash hiders on these look cool but will wreck your accuracy. They don't fit tight enough. It may seem tight but it ain't tight enough for something that hangs on the end of a barrel. They also scratch the heck out of the Parkerizing when you remove it. Quick detach my ass, it took me an hour to get mine off, mostly trying to not ruin the finish.

Thank you for the info. At this stage I think I will be happy with a semi-authentic G1 build with the wood and Belgian bayo, as long as I make reversable mods.

So how does the flash hider affect accuracy? I think the flash hider looks cool. Does the round sometimes come in contact with the attachment? Could I just chuck it up in a lathe and bore it out for a little extra clearance and solve that problem?