Posted this on a couple other forums already, thought I would share it over here also.

Mods: Up to you guys, but if we could leave this in the handgun section for a couple days so some people could see this, it would be awesome. Feel free to move it at any time to gunsmithing.

With the current bit of CZ love going on, and very little amount of information on them compared to other brands, I thought it would be helpful to put together a little How-To on taking apart the CZ sp01 Tactical. This information would carry over to the P01, and in some parts over to any of the CZ 75 Series.

CZ's are great pistol, are very well priced, and great shooters. However, they do come from the factory a bit rough around the edges on the internals compared to a lot of other guns on the market. This does not effect there reliablity, or overall function. With a couple hours of work, about $140 worth of parts from Cajun Gun Works, you can have a great SA trigger, and smooth out and lighten the DA pull.

Just to put it out there, a lot of what I did is following some of the guides on the CZ forms, which I will link at the end of the post. I will admit, they have some better pictures, and may work better for you.

Polishing areas are for any of the CZ75 Series, along with removal of the trigger/trigger bar\Removal/rebuilding the sear cage is specific to the CZ75 SP01 Tactical, but the p01, and any other decocker model, is very similar with the exception of a spacer used to the left of the sear cage

Field strip the gun. If you cant do this, put down the firearm, and call a gunsmith. Remove the grip panels, and mainspring ( sorry no pictures ). To Do this, press the lanyard against a hard surface, and tap out the pins on the grip. Remove the Mag brake, and the spring should come out easily.

Remove right side decocking lever. Yes, believe it or not, I had a brain dead moment the first time doing this and couldnt get it off. Simply use a small punch to push up the center section and wiggle the lever off

Next, remove the decoker lever, you will need to slide a spring out of the channel to get it to come out. It should come out just by pushing, DO NOT use a hammer/punch. If it isnt coming out, you havent moved the spring.

After removing the decocker, Your going to knock out the sear cage pin. If the first time, this pin is going to be a PITA to get out, at least on mine the pin was stalked in. I used a starter punch provided by CGW to do this, and used a roll of packaging tape to brace the gun. Its going to take a couple good smacks to get it started. If you are using a starter punch, switch to a 1/16 punch to fully remove the pin.

At this point, many people use a slave pin to keep the sear cage assembly together. I dont...pop out the sear cage, it will fall apart so be sure not to lose a part. This will be the fun part later to come.

Next, remove the trigger and trigger bar by popping out the trigger pin. This is another pin that you will basically have to maul to get out, I suggest replacing it with a CGW trigger pin. This will make it MUCH easier to break down the gun later if you wish to do more polishing/trigger work. Be sure to put a rag on top of where the trigger return spring is, it will fly out with some force if you don't.

Now, polishing the trigger bar. I use a combination of 600, 1000, 1500 grit sandpapers, and a dremel with a polsihing wheel and some high grade polishing compound. The point of this is NOT to remove tooling marks, because some will be very deep, but instead to smooth out the surface so the metal parts can glide over each other. This is going to get a lot of the grit out of the trigger

I also polish the bottom of the sear cage.

So after polishing the trigger bar, to reassemble I use the CGW trigger pin, since the old pin be basically dead. To make this a bit easier, on the longer arm of the trigger return spring, there will be a very slight bend. Using needle nose pliers, I give it a VERY SLIGHT added bend. place the trigger bar and trigger back into place, and pre-set the trigger by slightly putting in the trigger pin to hold in place. Place the trigger return spring back into place, with the long arm going into the slot on the frame, and the shorter arm going into the trigger. I use the back of my punch to push the spring into place, and then push the pin through.

Next up : putting the sear cage back together. The joyful part of the job.

First part, making a slave pin. I use a trimmed Q tip, sized just under the width of the sear care.

Using this cart from CZ-USA to help align the parts we are going to start reassembling the cage by pulling back the slave pin to the LEFT side of the cage, and working to the right.

Decocker and sear on so far, this is were it gets fun

Adding the springs. Go slow, be patienent. Its very frustrating if you have fat thumbs. I usually use a pair of tweezers to get the springs in place. DO NOT try to "spring" the springs yet...that comes later. Just get them in place.

This should be what it looks like. Remember that spring I said not to spring, were going to do it now.

Using a small screw driver, or blade, pull the hook over the first leg of the sear.

Next, do the same to hook it on the decocker. You can pull out the slave pin slightly to give yourself some flex to do this, just carefuller it doesn't fly apart on you.

Bam, should look like this. The FPB and decocking lever should have tension on them if you press against them

Place the sear cage back into the frame, BE SURE THE HAMMER IS PLACED CORRECTLY IN RELATION TO THE SEAR. The first time I did this, the hammer was over the sear, and I chipped the sear trying to get it to fit.

Using a small hammer, gently tap the pin back through the frame. You may need to place some pressure against the springs/sear to get the pin to align and go threw easily.

The reassembly is basically backwards of what we did earlier. This is my first time doing any sort of write up like this, I apologize if stuff isnt clear. Feel free to PM or post for clarification so I can update this.