I've pretty much decided I am not going to drive 100 miles to get Krown.
The guy in Lake Placid told me that Krown IS trying to build franchises in USA but it's not going so fast. Seems crazy because we're rusting out down here in VT and NH and NY as much as Canadians are.

Any experience with Liquid Film? I'm wondering what the penetration of this stuff is...how does it perform getting into cracks and seams and penetrating low levels of existing rust?

I'm feeling like I need to make some progress on this. I just found out our municipality has started routinely spraying salt brine on the roads. Essentially an engineered high-efficiency rust-acceleration product.

Any experience with Liquid Film? I'm wondering what the penetration of this stuff is...how does it perform getting into cracks and seams and penetrating low levels of existing rust?

I'm not sure what Liquid Film is, but if it is similar to Fluid Film, I can offer these comments.

I have been using Fluid Film to protect my steel winter rims from rusting. It seems to provide very good protection to anything it is sprayed on. My observations also show that it does creep short distances.

If you plan on using the aerosol version, the problem is getting the Fluid Film into hidden areas like door interiors, hood and trunk braces, and the box beams found in uni-body vehicles. Krown (and others) are applied as a mist/fog, all you need to do is get the application wand into the door cavity, and the fog makes sure every inch of the cavity is coated. I think the Fluid Film would only coat a few inches around the opening.

On the other hand, if you purchased the pails of Fluid Film, I have seen people build their own application system using an air compressor and steel brake lines used as an extension wand.

Since the aerosol can of Fluid Film cost $15 CDN, I think it is still more economical to spend $120 at Krown to get the whole vehicle covered properly.

Yeah- Fluid Film is what I meant.
You guys in Canada have a lot more options. There are VERY few options available in New England. Frankly if I had a nearby Krown applicator, I'd probably just go that route...especially for $120 and a professional application.
I found one Krown applicator in Lake Placid NY. I really don't want to drive that distance. Plus at $175 it's a bit more than you guys are paying.
I may end up doing it myself. I like the idea of the Fluid Film because it's more tenacious than Krown. Although the fact that it's not misting does make it a little less suitable for hidden panels.

I may end up doing this myself. (spraying with compressor and air-application gun) Options down here would be:
1) Motor oil and grease recipe/heated before application
2) Fluid Film
3) Boeshield T9 (also wax-based product) Boeshield T-9 Gallon

I had my Rav4 undercoated before I got it. First they used thin layer of rust preventive solution and on top is sprayed thicker layer of stonehit protection, that feels rubbery when dried.
The thin rust prevent solution was sprayed also inside doors and other boxlike structures.

If I remember correctly, the workshop which did the job used tectyl-products:

I had my Rav4 undercoated before I got it. First they used thin layer of rust preventive solution and on top is sprayed thicker layer of stonehit protection, that feels rubbery when dried.
The thin rust prevent solution was sprayed also inside doors and other boxlike structures.

If I remember correctly, the workshop which did the job used tectyl-products:

That's interesting. Quite a product array. It looks like this is the stuff for general undercarriage rustproofing: Tectyl 120-EH - Aftermarket - Valvoline
I wonder about it drying to a hard film...and then how long it lasts or what repeat applications do if the former application is "blocking" the ability to sink in. Wonder how easy it is to get small quantities.

That's interesting. Quite a product array. It looks like this is the stuff for general undercarriage rustproofing: Tectyl 120-EH - Aftermarket - Valvoline
I wonder about it drying to a hard film...and then how long it lasts or what repeat applications do if the former application is "blocking" the ability to sink in. Wonder how easy it is to get small quantities.

I have used myself Tectyl ML and Bodysafe, but as the range is for you different, can't say which are alike products. I have bought them in one litre containers.

You looked Valvoline Europe, Tectyl brand seems not to be under them but under that Daubert.

We have here quite many rust protection solutions in the markets. There was research about these solutions. Summary was that differences between different brands are very small, in the long run any is good, the main thing is to use some coating.

But very important is the cleanness and dryness of the bottom when you apply the solution. That's why if done without pressurised hot water, drying machines, the procedure should be done during hottest moments in the summer.

The companies that spray this stuff advertise that the oil displaces moisture, so it can be applied at any time.

I personally get mine done during the warm summer months because

I can get my car sprayed any day that I want, compared to waiting until the snow has started to fall and everyone decides to get their cars done. Usually appointments have to be booked weeks into the future.

The warmer weather makes the oil creep even faster into crevices

I still believe that you will get better coverage if everything is bone dry.

I acknowledge the comments of the previous two posters regarding the need to get the vehicle underside clean and dry. I bought my R4 in September, got rear ended three weeks later, and then the vehicle was in the shop for a full month so I'm now behind the eight ball on this stuff. I'm wondering about compatibility between Fluid Film and petroleum products like motor oil. Could I spray some heated motor oil in cold temps-especially into seams and crevices, and then shoot Fluid Film over this?