Title says it all. I've had 3 alignments done since my Eibach drop, one of which was done at a shop that says "lowered vehicles are our specialty". All 3 alignments were done on state of the art Hunter Hawkeye alignment machines.

The first two alignments my steering wheel was turned to the right. Now it's turned to the left.

I'm not well versed in this subject, so I'll try to describe it in layman's terms. Throughout all 3 alignments the steering wheel has felt disconnected from the wheels. I feel like there is some wandering in the wheels before the steering wheel moves. Let's say the wheels move 20% from a groove in the road. The first 15% of that movement the steering wheel stays stationary. The steering feels very loose. This would make sense if I had not had an alignment, but I've had 3, all aligning within factory spec. It's only the steering wheel not centered. So how can it be loose if it's aligned with only the steering wheel being off?

The best way to sum up what it seems like is this: Right when I get the car back it feels good, tight. But after a little driving it gets looser and looser. It's as if they didn't tighten bolts enough and the settings gradually fall out of spec. I could see this happening with alignment, 1 shop. But 2 shops and 3 alignments??

My last hope is to go to the dealer and instruct them not to give it back to me until it's perfect.

Any help is appreciated. This is driving me mad! I'm a bit OCD so it's really ruining my driving experience.

the idea is that the vehicle sitting on its weight or under load places most of the components in the MIDDLE of their travel. so you tighten up that way.

perhaps something was tightened with the vehicle on the lift with weight off the wheels.

perhaps this is not the case but just throwing out ideas/

Yes, but they specialized in lifted trucks. The installer is a friend of mine, he left the bolts "loose" and lowered it down, and then tightened then on the alignment rack. However, he never cycled the suspension to get it to settle. He drove it to another bay and onto the alignment rack. Also, the bolts didn't seem loose enough to turn by hand.

I'm going back to the alignment shop tomorrow morning with instructions. I'm going to personally oversee everything and their most knowledgeable employee is going to do it. All this company does are alignments. They have 6 Hunter machines.

I'm just hoping after ensuring all the bushings are loosened under load, we excessively cycle the bushings, align/tighten bolts, that the Jeep will be back to normal.

I'm not sure what else could have been messed up during the install....

What's your camber at? I have never clocked my bushings ever, and every car I hahbe owned I have lowered. Never had any issues unless camber was still to negative then the car felt loose

They didn't give me the printout this time, but if I remember correctly it's around -1.8 in the front and -1.4 in the rear. They said it was as positive as they can get it. The steering wheel is straight now but the steering still feels loose.

Does anyone have the OEM camber specs for comparison? Also, any eibach guys have the specs they aligned to?

They didn't give me the printout this time, but if I remember correctly it's around -1.8 in the front and -1.4 in the rear. They said it was as positive as they can get it. The steering wheel is straight now but the steering still feels loose.

Does anyone have the OEM camber specs for comparison? Also, any eibach guys have the specs they aligned to?

Thanks.

They are lieying or they won't go outside factory spec. I'm at -1.8 rear and I'm maxed out, that's with the 1.8" drop so I know you should be able to get to -1-1.2 since you are an inch higher than me. Front I'm at -.9 drivers side and -1.1 passenger side and that's with 1.8" front drop also. This is why I drive an hour or so away from where I live because my local guys do this shit to me to. Sorry man hope you get it worked out

They are lieying or they won't go outside factory spec. I'm at -1.8 rear and I'm maxed out, that's with the 1.8" drop so I know you should be able to get to -1-1.2 since you are an inch higher than me. Front I'm at -.9 drivers side and -1.1 passenger side and that's with 1.8" front drop also. This is why I drive an hour or so away from where I live because my local guys do this shit to me to. Sorry man hope you get it worked out

Didn't you have the full Eibach first? If so do you have an alignment printout of that? I'm going back to the shop in the morning so I'm trying to get a printout from someone who is not having problems.

Didn't you have the full Eibach first? If so do you have an alignment printout of that? I'm going back to the shop in the morning so I'm trying to get a printout from someone who is not having problems.

Thanks

I only ran the eibach fronts, had the stock fronts on the back. I didn't get a printout from the first alignment, I just have one from my alignment after the road magnet install. I can post a pic of that if you want. You should at least be able to hit the numbers I did since your at least an inch higher all around

It's fixed! FINALLY! I took it back to the dealership and they did it right. The steering is tight. The wheel is straight. It's perfect. I guess that's what I got for going the cheap route.

I decided to go with -1.6 in the front after speaking with the Viper/SRT tech. He said bone stock SRT Jeep comes in at -2 to -2.2. He said a lot of customers are asking to go more positive to prevent tire wear. We decided to do a compromise not to sacrifice handling.

A warning for those of you doing alignments after a drop. IF you don't have a trust worthy go to shop, go back to the dealership! Pay the money. It's worth it.

Lastly, someone at the dealership stole scratch off lottery tickets I had that had $80 worth of winnings. It's Helfman Jeep in Houston. Hopefully the remedy the situation quickly.

It's fixed! FINALLY! I took it back to the dealership and they did it right. The steering is tight. The wheel is straight. It's perfect. I guess that's what I got for going the cheap route.

I decided to go with -1.6 in the front after speaking with the Viper/SRT tech. He said bone stock SRT Jeep comes in at -2 to -2.2. He said a lot of customers are asking to go more positive to prevent tire wear. We decided to do a compromise not to sacrifice handling.

A warning for those of you doing alignments after a drop. IF you don't have a trust worthy go to shop, go back to the dealership! Pay the money. It's worth it.

Lastly, someone at the dealership stole scratch off lottery tickets I had that had $80 worth of winnings. It's Helfman Jeep in Houston. Hopefully the remedy the situation quickly.

Wow, that was an expensive alignment (dealer price + $80 in lottery tickets). Pretty sure I'd be asking the dealer to eat the cost of the alignment regardless if it gets resolved or not. Hope it works out and you get your money back.