I can attest to the "cleaning putty" (in my XRAY anyway). I bought a kneadable eraser (any Hobby Lobby/Michael's) for a couple bucks. Pack it in all the gears mixed with a bit of oil (just for lube) and it worked wonders. Can't wait to do this to the TC6's.

The diffs are working great. Some small modifications to the tooling need to be made which will delay it slightly. But the plan is to have them in customers' hands by the IIC.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redwood

Hey Rick, thanks for the setups but I have a few questions.

How come you angle the front wishbone in one setup and not the other?I thought that I could get more steering with the flat pins on the modified car which is what I felt that this change gave me. Typically the team will use the angled pins but this track was lower grip that I normally race on so this change helped me a lot. My 13.5 car was very good so I was not comfortable making this change on it but I think it would be better.

What difference does the 2mm+Silver under the front outer camber link have? I normally run 1mm+Black.Assuming you are using the same inner position, I feel this will give more traction.

Do you normally run 3mm under the rear outer camber link and adjust the lower blocks to tune rear grip?Yes. I lowered the rear pins to try and increase traction with the modified car. I went as low as 0B but felt that I gained to much grip relative to the front end. On the 13.5 car with lower speeds the rear traction was OK. The car was actually a bit loose but this helped with corner speeds on the tight track.

What makes you change spring from silver/green to silver/silver or 15.5/13.5 RSD?I played with the different combos and it is all about feel. silver/silver is the base setup and is what I ended up with in 13.5. With the RSD springs I was able to use a slightly softer spring on the rear to improve rear grip on power for modified. The difference between green and silver is too much. I did not have enough RSD springs to run them on both cars.

Do you always run 6 degree caster or only for certain conditions?I always use them. With the angled pins, the caster ends up 5 degrees. With flat pins you could probably get away with 4 deg blocks.More caster gives me more steering.

What dictates how much camber you run?This is difficult to determine so I will generally use the same setting to start with on every track (2 deg front, 1.5 deg rear). My feeling is that the more negative you add you more grip you get cornering. When you take it away, you get more forward grip.

I always use a setup station instead of a gauge block to set camber. each of these will produce a different amount of camber even though the reading is the same. Setup stations will usually place a load on the suspension so that the camber reading is the maximum reading within the small amount of play in the suspension. When a car is sitting on the table with tires the wheels sort of finds a center within the play so using a block the camber will read less.

At some point during the race I was using a block and my car was not as good as I would of liked so I thought to myself why are you checking it this way when you never do. I went back to checking on the station and this made a huge difference for me. It transformed my modified car and indicated that I was using way to much negative camber. 2 degrees on the block is like 3 degrees or more on the station.

Wow, there were more than I thought but much appreciated if you would answer as I really want to get my setup perfected.

Yes. I lowered the rear pins to try and increase traction with the modified car. I went as low as 0B but felt that I gained to much grip relative to the front end. On the 13.5 car with lower speeds the rear traction was OK. The car was actually a bit loose but this helped with corner speeds on the tight track.

Rick--reading your mod setup it says you were running 3A front mounts (which is lower then 0B) and 1B rear mounts. A being the lower hole, B being the upper then 1B would be higher not lower as you posted. Are the A and B reversed on setup sheet by chance?

i tried it before you mention it. it will rub the belt so it wont work.
my problem is my motor shaft is scratched and it wont go all the way in. its fixed now

I extended the flat on my motor shaft but you may want to get a couple offset spurs from XRay or another manufacturer. We learned about this alignment issue at the RROC when we first ran our new kits. Another solution would be to find short body pinions which have the grub screw closer to the teeth. this will give you more freedom of movement on the shaft.
I am considering making an offset spur adapter to help with this issue if there is enough additional interest.

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