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BlAde belt torque IS TOO HIGH It's reducing the engines running speed TO IDLE ALMOST check the blade brakes are releasing fully and the blade bearing are not tight or seem to move stiffly if the blade moved by hand ige ENIGINE OFF SPK LEAD TAKEN OFF PLUGS FOR SAFTEY AND IGNITION OFF TO AVOID ACCIDENTAL HAND CRANK ROUND START HALFWAY ENGAGE THE BLADE SYSTEM SO THE BRAKE SHOES RELEASE FROM THE PULLEYS AND THE DRIVE BELT IS LOSE NOT ENGADEGED FULY TURN THE BLADE AROUND BY HAND IF THECBLADEXOR PULLEY IS HARD TO TURN UNLESS ITS CLOGGEDUP BY GRASS DEPOSITS BUILT UP IN THE DECK OR BEARING HOUSINGS TO FIX IT WILL NEED DISASSEMBLING AND CLEANING OUT OF DEBRIS THEN PUTING BACK TOGETHER IF THE PULLEYS ECT ARE NOT CLOGGED UP THEN THE BEARINGS may need either lubricating with a race bearing grease compound or or if the blade is almost impossible to turn then the blade BEARINGS are worn out And WILL need REPLACING by mechanic the deck ajustment may also be to much and its over TIGHENING The drive BELTS slowing down the engine HOPE THIS HELP WITH THE DIAGNOSIS OF FAULT CHECK THE DRIVE SYSTEM FOR THE BLADES FULY
INCLUDINGVANYVTENTIONING PULLEYS ETC UNDER THE MAIN BODY OF THE MOWER INVOLDED WITH THE BLADE SYSTEM IF ANY PULLEY ENGAEGERSXSEEM TO BE STIFF OR SEEMS TIGHT WHEN THE BELT IS LOSSEND THE PULLY BEARINGS NEED CHECKING OR LUBRICATING ETC THE BELT COULD ALSO HAVE SHRUNK TOO SMALL IF THE MOWERS BEEN STANING STILL A LONG TIME IF THE BELTS HAS DEGRADED AND SHRUNK IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED

In my case noise was coming from the plastic blade rubbing against the sheet metal housing. I removed the motor and added 2 washers to the mounting screws. The washers acted as spacers and lifted up the motor/blade assembly with respect to the sheet metal housing. The blade no longer rubbed against the housing and the noise stopped.