As we bumped along the dirt roads of McCormack Ranch near Rio Vista, cutting along the hips of the Montezuma Hills toward the goat barns, I couldn't help but compare the dry farmed wheat fields stretching over the hills to the landscape where I herded my goats in Provence.

There, in the early 1970s, my husband and I had a small herd of milking goats. Our goats, under our watchful eyes, roamed fields thick with wild thyme, lavender and grasses, and the communal forest of pine, oak and juniper that stretched across rough hills and down the long valley behind the old stone barn where we kept and milked them. And so began my personal love of goats.

Now I find I like goats as much for their meat as for their milk. And I'm not alone. Chefs at restaurants ranging from the four-star Meadowood in St. Helena to Cafe Rouge in Berkeley to Osteria Stellina in Point Reyes Station are poaching medallions of goat in whey, serving chops and rack as part of a mixed grill, offering Italian-style braised goat with polenta and more.

Because goat is easy to raise, it feeds populations the world over, from Australia to Norway to Puerto Rico. In Jamaica and much of the Caribbean, fiery goat curries are especially popular; in Australia, grills and stews are specialties.

Goat has long been traditional in Mexican cooking, and I've often had it at taquerias or neighborhood Mexican restaurants that cater to the local Latino clientele.

One of the most popular Mexican goat dishes is bierra, long and slow baked, and seasoned with chiles, garlic, cumin and cloves. A friend from Jalisco says in that part of Mexico the goat is slathered with the spice mix, then wrapped in banana leaves and slow baked in a pit.

When done, the meat is tender and shreds, perfect for spooning into corn tortillas along with cilantro, chopped white onions and a thick salsa, the usual accompaniments.

Nutritionally, it's a powerhouse, too. Goat is relatively low in fat, and high in iron. Its mild, yet interesting flavor makes is easy to use in a variety of dishes.

As we drove along the ranch road, admiring the white clusters of sheep feeding on the grasses of the late spring hillsides, Jeannie McCormack explained how she and her husband, Al Medvitz, got into the goat meat business as an adjunct to their sheep and grain ranching.

"It's the way my great-grandfather and everyone around here farmed," she said. After the grain is harvested, the sheep come in on the stubble and feed. Each year, two-thirds of the ranch is left fallow, and the animals graze the fallow fields before they graze the wheat stubble.

McCormack raises the Boer breed of goat, considered the best breed for meat, and has about 250 to 280 does and several bucks. She sells the goats for meat when they are about 10 to 12 months old and about 125 pounds.

In my early experience with goats in Provence, the kids were considered a seasonal delicacy, like spring lamb, and were sold at about six to eight weeks and about 40 pounds. The meat was meltingly tender and sweet.

The French North African cooks preferred the older, mature goats, whose meat was more strongly flavored and less tender, for slow roasting, braising or making into sausage. These goats were of no particular breed, just chevres du pays - local mixed stock that could thrive in the dry Mediterranean climate.

Julie Rossotti of Rossotti Ranch and Dave Evans of Marin Sun Farms also favor the Boer breed. The meat is wonderfully tender, mild "and even with a little pepper taste," says Evans. "People seem to expect it to have a strong flavor and are surprised when it doesn't," he says.

That's leading more diners to try it. Add to that the nutritional qualities, increasing local availability and chefs' eagerness to work with locally raised meat that's versatile in a wide range of dishes, and goat might just find its way into more home kitchens as well.

-- See recipes and where to buy goat on K4 and K5

Buying goat

Here are some places to buy goat in the Bay Area. For the butchers, it's best to call ahead to order or to make sure that the cut you want is in stock.

Cafe Rouge, 1782 Fourth St., Berkeley; (510) 525-2707 or caferouge.com. Call two to three days ahead.

Marin Sun Farms, 10905 Hwy. 1, Point Reyes Station; (415) 663-8997 or marinsunfarms.com. The meat is also sold at the Saturday morning Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in San Francisco.

McCormack Ranch, Rio Vista. McCormack Ranch sells whole goat on the hoof, then it is taken to Superior Farms in Dixon for processing according to the purchaser's desired cuts. For more information or to order, call Jeannie McCormack, (707) 374-5236.

Rossotti Ranch, 10133 Valley Ford Road, Petaluma; (707) 792-1797 or rossottiranch.com. The ranch specializes in goat meat and sells direct to consumers and at the Marin Farmers Market in San Rafael on Sundays.

Grilled Goat Chops With Harissa & Rosemary

Serves 4

Since goat is such a popular meat in North Africa, harissa - the spicy sauce of the region - seems like a logical pairing. Serve the chops with couscous, another North African specialty.

3 tablespoons harissa (see Note)

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil + more as needed

8 goat loin chops, about 3-3 1/2 pounds

Instructions: In a small bowl, combine the harissa, rosemary, salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Put the chops in a single layer in a baking dish and spread half of the paste evenly over the meat. Turn the chops and rub the remaining paste on the other side.

Prepare a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill. When the grill is hot, carefully oil the grill rack. Lay the chops on the grill and cook until seared and brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side (the harissa paste will appear black after grilling).

Preheat the oven to 375°. Transfer the chops to an oven-safe pan, and place in the oven to finish cooking for about 10 to 15 minutes, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chops registers 135° for medium-rare, 140° for medium. Remove meat from the oven and rest it for 10 minutes before serving.

Note: The main ingredients in harissa include piri piri chile peppers, tomatoes and paprika, while additional ingredients (such as cumin, red peppers, coriander, and garlic) vary according to household and region in North Africa. Prepared harissa can be purchased at well-stocked supermarkets and specialty grocers.

Wine pairing: There is chile heat from the harissa, so choose a soft, fruity wine like Dolcetto.

Oven-Roasted Rack of Goat With Fresh Thyme & Garlic

Serves 4

Phillipe Gandiol, an artist friend, said he'd like to come over and do a painting of my house. I suggested he stay for dinner and bring his wife. Since he is French and a wonderful cook as well as artist, I felt the meal needed to be special but not fussy. I decided on a simple rack of goat as the entree, accompanied by artichokes and favas. Rice also makes a good partner. Note the marinating time needed for the meat.

Instructions: Combine the olive oil, thyme, salt, pepper and garlic in a small bowl to make a marinade. Place the racks in a shallow dish and rub with the marinade , turning several times to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours before roasting (preferably overnight), turning from time to time.

Preheat an oven to 475°. Remove meat from the marinade, and discard any remaining pieces of garlic and thyme clinging to the racks. Lightly oil an oven-proof frying pan. Over medium-high heat, sear the racks until golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Spread any excess marinade over the racks and place them in the oven, fat side up. Roast until the racks are richly browned, the meat is pulling back slightly from the bone, and a meat thermometer inserted into the center of the racks registers 135° for medium rare, about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the size of the racks, or 140° for medium. Remove from oven and let stand 10 minutes.

To serve: Cut into "double" chops, which have two rib bones per "chop" - four double chops per half rack. Place two double chops on each of 4 warmed dinner plates, or serve family-style on a warmed platter. Garnish with the remaining thyme. Serve immediately.

Note: Racks of goat - less consistent in size than racks of lamb - can range in size from less than a pound to almost 1 1/2 pounds, so adjust cooking time accordingly.

The calories and other nutrients absorbed from marinades vary and are difficult to estimate. Variables include the type of food, marinating time and amount of surface area. Therefore, there is no analysis.

2 to 3 bunches young carrots, approximately 3 inches long (about 8 ounces per bunch)

2 to 3 bunches spring onions, about 2 1/2 pounds total

8 stalks green garlic, about 1 pound

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

-- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the meat: Preheat the oven to 325°. Season meat with salt and pepper to taste. Add oil and butter to a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When very hot but not smoking, add the meat; brown on all sides, cooking in batches a few pieces at a time. Remove to a bowl. Continue until all the meat is browned; set aside. Add the onions, leeks and carrots to the Dutch oven; cook until the edges of the onion start to brown, about 3 or 4 minutes.

Pour in the wine and scrape up any bits clinging to the bottom of the pan. Return the meat and the juices that have collected in the bowl to the pan, then stir in 1 teaspoon of the fresh rosemary.

Cover the pan and put it in the oven. Cook the goat, stirring from time to time, until it is tender enough to cut with a spoon, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. If the sauce is too thin, place Dutch oven on the stove over medium-high heat. Remove the lid and cook until sauce thickens to desired consistency, being careful not to scorch the meat. If the sauce is too thick, adjust with a little water. Stir in the remaining rosemary just before serving.

For the vegetables: While the meat is cooking, scrub the carrots; if carrots are small, leave whole and keep 1/4-inch of green tops. However, if large, cut in half lengthwise. Trim the spring onions, discarding the tops and using only the white bulb; halve lengthwise, if large. Trim and peel the green garlic as needed, cutting in half lengthwise. Melt the butter in a sauce pan and add the carrots, onions and green garlic. Add a little water, about 1/2 cup, reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook until vegetables are tender, turning occasionally, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Serve the ragout surrounded by the spring vegetables, accompanied by mashed potatoes, polenta or rice, if desired.

Goat Shank Birria for Tacos

The meat needs to cook for about 3 hours, so make it early in the day or the day before serving. If desired, round out your meal with beans and rice.

For the sauce

3 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded (see Note)

2 cascabel chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 guajillo chile, stemmed and seeded

1 white onion, chopped, about 2 cups

3 cloves garlic, chopped, about 1 tablespoon

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon cumin seed

5 allspice berries

2 teaspoons coarse sea salt

2 tablespoons white distilled vinegar

3/4 cup chicken broth

1 large tomato (like beefsteak), chopped, about 1 cup

For the meat

3 pounds goat shank (about 4 shanks)

-- Salt and pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon canola oil

To serve

8 corn tortillas

1 1/2 cups chopped cilantro

1 white onion, minced

-- Salsa

For the sauce: Use a "for spices only" coffee grinder to grind the chiles into a powder. Transfer the chile powder to a blender or food processor, and add the onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, allspice, salt, vinegar, broth and tomato; process until smooth. Scrape the mixture into a sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Cook just long enough to blend the flavors, about 10 minutes.

For the meat: Make slits about 1-inch-long and 1/2-inch-deep all over the shanks, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, place shanks into the pan and sear until nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Add the sauce to the pan plus enough water to make about 1-inch deep cooking liquid, which should almost cover the shanks.

Bring the liquid to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to low, so liquid is just barely simmering. Turn shanks occasionally and cook until the meat easily falls off the bone, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

To serve: Cool shanks slightly, then pull off and shred the meat. Meanwhile, return pan juices to a simmer and reduce until thickened, about 5 minutes, or to desired consistency. Add shredded meat to the pan juices. Reheat and stir to mix, then arrange on a serving platter. Serve hot with corn tortillas and bowls of chopped cilantro, white onions and your favorite salsa.

Note: Dried anchos are also known as pasillas.

The calories and other nutrients absorbed from marinades vary and are difficult to estimate. Variables include the type of food, marinating time and amount of surface area. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis.

Wine pairing: The meat - not as spicy as you might think - can be served with a range of low-tannin red wine like Gamay and Barbera.