I picked up a used 103D to see what the Darbee might do for cable, DVDs, and BluRay. I am running a single HDMI cable to the Anthem, and have disabled scaling for the source on the Anthems scaler menu.

1. Will that also prevent the Anthem from determining the frame rate as well? The Oppo is set to Auto.

2. Would I be better of using the split AV setting and sending only audio to the Anthem as per the Oppo manual?

I'm running my cable box (no option for native resolution) at 1080i into the Oppo and get a handshaking noise when switching channels. Could split AV solve this?

Thanks, as always.

Glenn

Glenn ... I'll try to answer your questions for you.

1. No.... First of all, set the Oppo output to match the optimized settings for your TV. If your TV set is 1080p60 and prefers the YCrCb color space, then set these settings explicitly in the Oppo to minimize handshake errors. And also, do the same for the Anthem video settings, so that it just passes video thru from the Oppo to your TV without changing its color or resolution modes.

2. Not really. It depends....The Split AV setup was devised as a work around for video modes not supported by the Anthem unit you may have. You didn't say which Anthem unit you had, but if you have the newer MRX systems, then only use 1 video cable from the 103D --->MRX ---> TV.

If you have the 3D versions of the AVM50 and D2v and your TV also supports 3D, then also use the connection described earlier.

If you have the non-3D AVM or D2v processors and have a 3D TV, THEN use the SPLIT AV option where the video goes directly from the 103D to your TV and another cable from the 103D to your Anthem.

I have a similar cable box setup like yours where I use the Oppo to clean up my cable box video. Handshaking will be reduced if you have video settings as described in #1 above. The Oppo always receives a 1080i signal, fed into the Anthem to output a 1080p60 (if in the US or 1080p50 elsewhere) output signal to the TV, with similar color space settings in the Oppo, Anthem, and TV.

I believe the handshaking noise you are getting now is due to the AUTO setting in the Oppo where it has to constantly renegotiate video settings with the TV and that process is somewhat slow. AFter all, it takes place using a slow 100kHz 2-wire control bus, part of the HDMI standard.

1. No.... First of all, set the Oppo output to match the optimized settings for your TV. If your TV set is 1080p60 and prefers the YCrCb color space, then set these settings explicitly in the Oppo to minimize handshake errors. And also, do the same for the Anthem video settings, so that it just passes video thru from the Oppo to your TV without changing its color or resolution modes.

2. Not really. It depends....The Split AV setup was devised as a work around for video modes not supported by the Anthem unit you may have. You didn't say which Anthem unit you had, but if you have the newer MRX systems, then only use 1 video cable from the 103D --->MRX ---> TV.

If you have the 3D versions of the AVM50 and D2v and your TV also supports 3D, then also use the connection described earlier.

If you have the non-3D AVM or D2v processors and have a 3D TV, THEN use the SPLIT AV option where the video goes directly from the 103D to your TV and another cable from the 103D to your Anthem.

I have a similar cable box setup like yours where I use the Oppo to clean up my cable box video. Handshaking will be reduced if you have video settings as described in #1 above. The Oppo always receives a 1080i signal, fed into the Anthem to output a 1080p60 (if in the US or 1080p50 elsewhere) output signal to the TV, with similar color space settings in the Oppo, Anthem, and TV.

I believe the handshaking noise you are getting now is due to the AUTO setting in the Oppo where it has to constantly renegotiate video settings with the TV and that process is somewhat slow. AFter all, it takes place using a slow 100kHz 2-wire control bus, part of the HDMI standard.

Hope that helps...

- David

Thanks David,

It's an original AVM50 (albeit with ARC). TV is a KRP600m which will be replaced this year, probably with a LG OLED. I'll set up the Oppo as described and go back to 1080p/60 for Video Config. 1, and 1080p/24 for Anthem Video Config 2, and set the Oppo up for that as well for film based material.

I may replace the processor to an AVM60 anyway. I have an Oppo UDP 203 as well for the future, but I wanted to fool with the Darbee. I've startzed with Hi-Def 35 on the Darbee to start for cable. What has worked for you?

It's an original AVM50 (albeit with ARC). TV is a KRP600m which will be replaced this year, probably with a LG OLED. I'll set up the Oppo as described and go back to 1080p/60 for Video Config. 1, and 1080p/24 for Anthem Video Config 2, and set the Oppo up for that as well for film based material.

I may replace the processor to an AVM60 anyway. I have an Oppo UDP 205 as well for the future, but I wanted to fool with the Darbee. I've started with Hi-Def 35 on the Darbee to start for cable. What has worked for you?

Glenn

In my case, I have 1080p60 all the way for TV and DVD/BD watching. I have a 60" Pioneer Elite Kuro Plasma as well, which triples the frame rate from 24Hz to 72Hz much like yours. I never saw much difference between 60Hz and 72Hz frame rates, so I decided to leave it at 60Hz all the way.

Since you plan to use 1080p24 for BD watching, remember to turn 1080p24 to ON (or is is Auto?) in the Oppo. That way, any BR authored at 24Hz will be output at 24Hz, else it'll play at 1080p60. Just remember, for video config 2, to set the output frame rate to 24Hz, with appropriate color space. In my case its RGB (dithered) all the way from the Oppo to my D2v to my Plasma. I believe your KRP600M was optimized for RGB color-space as well, but please verify with your manual.

In my case, I have 1080p60 all the way for TV and DVD/BD watching. I have a 60" Pioneer Elite Kuro Plasma as well, which triples the frame rate from 24Hz to 72Hz much like yours. I never saw much difference between 60Hz and 72Hz frame rates, so I decided to leave it at 60Hz all the way.

Since you plan to use 1080p24 for BD watching, remember to turn 1080p24 to ON (or is is Auto?) in the Oppo. That way, any BR authored at 24Hz will be output at 24Hz, else it'll play at 1080p60. Just remember, for video config 2, to set the output frame rate to 24Hz, with appropriate color space. In my case its RGB (dithered) all the way from the Oppo to my D2v to my Plasma. I believe your KRP600M was optimized for RGB color-space as well, but please verify with your manual.

I tried the above. More annoying than the popping noise when changing channels is the noise that happens when the cable company inserts its own commercials. For example, I could be watching a channel with 5.1 Dolby Digital audio. Comcast may override the network commercial with a local one in stereo. Switching between the two produces approximately one second of audio nastiness. I tried setting the Oppo to output PCM, which didn't help. This is the same noise from the Anthem that one gets when switching sources i.e. Cable to DVD.

I tried the above. More annoying than the popping noise when changing channels is the noise that happens when the cable company inserts its own commercials. For example, I could be watching a channel with 5.1 Dolby Digital audio. Comcast may override the network commercial with a local one in stereo. Switching between the two produces approximately one second of audio nastiness. I tried setting the Oppo to output PCM, which didn't help. This is the same noise from the Anthem that one gets when switching sources i.e. Cable to DVD.

Yeah, HDMI handshakes for change in video or audio format are painful. Try the "muting" for your source in the Anthem. From my D2v manual:

Muting (MAIN only)
This eliminates popping sounds that may occur with some digital source components during a bitstream change. If popping is heard when changing chapter on a DVD or channel on a digital satellite receiver or cable box, use Max setting. However, if the beginning of a track is cut off when playing a CD, use Min setting.

Yeah, HDMI handshakes for change in video or audio format are painful. Try the "muting" for your source in the Anthem. From my D2v manual:

Muting (MAIN only)
This eliminates popping sounds that may occur with some digital source components during a bitstream change. If popping is heard when changing chapter on a DVD or channel on a digital satellite receiver or cable box, use Max setting. However, if the beginning of a track is cut off when playing a CD, use Min setting.

quick question:
when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ?
Should I run
1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc
2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC
3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?

quick question:
when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ?
Should I run
1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc
2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC
3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?

quick question:
when setting up an Anthem d2v and a Veldoyne DD15+ Auto EQ in what order would I run the setups on each ?
Should I run
1. the veloyne auto EQ setup and then Anthem arc
2. leave velodyne in factory default settings and only run ARC
3. run ARC and then velodyne Auto EQ?

thank you in advance...

Christian

Unless, you are trying to sure a nasty null somewhere in your frequency response, which would required extra gain EQ from the sub, I would leave the DD15+ in its default state and have ARC do all the work (Option #2). Option 1 is overkill if your room is well behaved (acoustically)...though if I want to raise the low end <25Hz if my room or sub placement is not optimal, I would engage the Velodyne to provide that sub boost.

I recently purchased a used d2 and thought I would say hello here since I will probably be posting a bit over the next few weeks as I try to get it dialed in.

Ive been looking for the "right" d1 for a long time now for a legacy 5.1 setup at my cabin , mostly SD other than cable box at this point. Im 60-40 music-HT. I saw a deal on a D2 I couldn't pass up and went for it ($750, IF it pans out I think it will be a steal).

Im hoping it will be a little more future proof than a D1. When the bulb on my SD projector dies I will probably go to a HD (HDMI) projector and maybe add a BD player. Hoping the d2 will handle all that. My d2 should arrive today . Very excited to hear how this unit handles 2.1.

I also purchased the "tripp lite Keyspan" serial to USB and a strait through serial cable for ARC and FW update if needed. I assume I should update to the most recent FW if its not already loaded?

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this giant 5000 page wealth of information over the years! Im sure it will be useful.

Well, the D2 looks pretty good but not perfect. It seems that one of the HDMI inputs is damage but other than that it looks excellent. Im hooking it up today.

The remote is sticky which I understand is common with these. What best solution for this? Is there anything you can do to make it less sticky? Is there an alternate remote that works with the d2? Funny, I have a Rotel remote from the same period and it did the same thing, a bad batch of plastic out of China maybe?

Well, I haven't set up my subs yet or run ARC but the D2 sounds fantastic, especially for 2 channel. Im having a hard time getting the video dialed in though and Im a little worried that the VP might be malfunctioning.

Right off the bat I made the same mistake I always make which is I forgot to reset to factory default before inputing my settings. Im really hoping the issues I am experiencing are simply a setting a missed.

On both displays I am getting less then stellar video quality. The biggest thing is badly crushed whites in bright scenes (see picture). The green/purple stuff in the CRT pic was a camera artifact, I couldn't see that in person. Both displays appear to need minor brightness, contrast and color/tint adjustments after putting the d2 in the video chain, but much bigger changes than Ive seen when swapping out VPs in the past. The picture adjustment settings in the D2 (button 7) appear to all be at default. Any thoughts on what setting in the D2 could cause this?

The second problem is I am seeing some image distortion/ noise on both displays. On the projector (component) I was watching True Grit DVD that was included with the bluray, DVD player was outputting 480i, and I was seeing some odd gray horizontal banding across the screen in dark scenes that would kind of move up and down. This was visible in the letter box bars as well, but again only in darker scenes.

On the CRT (HDMI) I was seeing some static (as in not moving) narrow vertical lines that where either green or purple (see pics, in the picture they look gray but it gives you an idea what it looked like). In both cases the source was a Denon DVD2910 via component.

All this considered, I can't help but wonder if the video board is failing. Do these sound like a typical video board failure symptoms? The amount of video setting on this thing is amazing so Im really hoping its something on my end but I really need to determine wether the unit needs to be retuned or not. Before the d2 I was using a pio 1121k AVR and the picture I was getting from that was better across the board which leads me to believe something is wrong.

FW is 1.33

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: I watched some HD cable through the projector the other day and the picture seemed ok so its looking like the problem might be specific to the DVD player. Will test further...

The remote is sticky which I understand is common with these. What best solution for this? Is there anything you can do to make it less sticky? Is there an alternate remote that works with the d2? Funny, I have a Rotel remote from the same period and it did the same thing, a bad batch of plastic out of China maybe?

I've had a couple of those as well, tried a bunch of different solutions but for me the one that worked was using Goo Gone. Wipe it down repeatedly with a cloth soaked in it (be careful as possible not to saturate under the buttons, of course).

I did this a few times over the period of a day or two, then I found for some reason it still felt a *little* sticky, but that residual stickiness dissipated over the next few days, maybe as the plastic re-cured (or something).

I've done this with two remotes with equal success. Good luck with that and your D2!

I've had a couple of those as well, tried a bunch of different solutions but for me the one that worked was using Goo Gone. Wipe it down repeatedly with a cloth soaked in it (be careful as possible not to saturate under the buttons, of course).

I did this a few times over the period of a day or two, then I found for some reason it still felt a *little* sticky, but that residual stickiness dissipated over the next few days, maybe as the plastic re-cured (or something).

I've done this with two remotes with equal success. Good luck with that and your D2!

Well, I haven't set up my subs yet or run ARC but the D2 sounds fantastic, especially for 2 channel. Im having a hard time getting the video dialed in though and Im a little worried that the VP might be malfunctioning.

Right off the bat I made the same mistake I always make which is I forgot to reset to factory default before inputing my settings. Im really hoping the issues I am experiencing are simply a setting a missed.

On both displays I am getting less then stellar video quality. The biggest thing is badly crushed whites in bright scenes (see picture). The green/purple stuff in the CRT pic was a camera artifact, I couldn't see that in person. Both displays appear to need minor brightness, contrast and color/tint adjustments after putting the d2 in the video chain, but much bigger changes than Ive seen when swapping out VPs in the past. The picture adjustment settings in the D2 (button 7) appear to all be at default. Any thoughts on what setting in the D2 could cause this?

The second problem is I am seeing some image distortion/ noise on both displays. On the projector (component) I was watching True Grit DVD that was included with the bluray, DVD player was outputting 480i, and I was seeing some odd gray horizontal banding across the screen in dark scenes that would kind of move up and down. This was visible in the letter box bars as well, but again only in darker scenes.

On the CRT (HDMI) I was seeing some static (as in not moving) narrow vertical lines that where either green or purple (see pics, in the picture they look gray but it gives you an idea what it looked like). In both cases the source was a Denon DVD2910 via component.

All this considered, I can't help but wonder if the video board is failing. Do these sound like a typical video board failure symptoms? The amount of video setting on this thing is amazing so Im really hoping its something on my end but I really need to determine wether the unit needs to be retuned or not. Before the d2 I was using a pio 1121k AVR and the picture I was getting from that was better across the board which leads me to believe something is wrong.

FW is 1.33

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: I watched some HD cable through the projector the other day and the picture seemed ok so its looking like the problem might be specific to the DVD player. Will test further...

Nick

I think a lot of the problem here could be due to sending RGB to the Component input of the D2 and having a mismatch in the Input Color Space setting (Video Source Adjust Menu > Picture > Input Color Space) for which flavor of RGB is being sent by the source. Again, this is related to the INPUT side of the D2, not its output.

In the D2, set that to Studio. If that doesn't fix it, go to the source device and look for a setting in it related to output "black levels" which offers only 2 choices. The choices could be named anything (there's no consensus on this), so just try both choices for the output of the source.

That's your best shot at fixing the white crush. (If this is the explanation your near blacks would also be wrong.)

-------------------------------

For the horizontal interference patterns: If they are continuously scrolling slowly upwards then you have the classic symptom of a "ground loop". A ground loop is garbage current that travels between the devices in your setup along the cable shield of the cables connecting them -- trying to find a path to ground so current can flow. The devices don't even need to be turned on for this to happen. The most common interference is power line noise, and this scrolls slowly upwards because TV frames happen at a slightly slower rate than 60Hz.

There are lots of possible sources of ground loop garbage current, but these days the single most common is garbage coming in to your house on the shield of a cable or satellite TV feed. Again, even if you are not viewing that feed. To test this, simply disconnect that feed wire where it comes out of your wall and see if the problem goes away. If that fixes it then you need to properly ground that feed wire where it enters your house.

If that's not the cause, disconnect EVERYTHING from the D2 except for power and video input and video output and see if the problem goes away. If it does, start reconnecting things in logical order until you figure out how the garbage current is getting to the D2.

-------------------------------

The vertical garbage on the HDMI output could also be related to a ground loop, although the symptom is not common.

Instead the problem may be in the "digitizing" of your Component video input to produce the HDMI video output. This could be due to a problem on the video board, or it could be you need to make some adjustments in the Video ADC settings (again, in Video Source Adjust > Picture). These control how the Analog Component video is digitized (ADC: Analog to Digital Converter).

When fiddling with the Video Source Adjust menu, keep in mind that there are a separate set of Video Source Adjust settings for each Source line. So you have to actually view each given Source line before you can view/change the Video Source Adjust settings for that line.
--Bob