Welcome to HVAC-Talk.com, a non-DIY site and the ultimate Source for HVAC Information & Knowledge Sharing for the industry professional! Here you can join over 150,000 HVAC Professionals & enthusiasts from around the world discussing all things related to HVAC/R. You are currently viewing as a NON-REGISTERED guest which gives you limited access to view discussions

To gain full access to our forums you must register; for a free account. As a registered Guest you will be able to:

Participate in over 40 different forums and search/browse from nearly 3 million posts.

Test mode bypasses the alarms that are suppose to stop the unit from working if a safety issue arises. It's purpose is to allow a professional technician to get the unit to run when an alarm is active so they can properly diagnose the issue.

Climatemaster has a really nice alarming system that can help a tech find the problem in a matter of 10 minutes, IF they get their hands on the manual. I believe your system uses a DXM board which has 3 lights a red green and yellow. If your system is in alarm bypass the yellow light will be on.

If you have a tech work on your unit make sure they get their hands on the manual before they show up and make sure they call Climatemaster. They have an extremely helpful tech support.

Test mode bypasses the alarms that are suppose to stop the unit from working if a safety issue arises. It's purpose is to allow a professional technician to get the unit to run when an alarm is active so they can properly diagnose the issue.

Climatemaster has a really nice alarming system that can help a tech find the problem in a matter of 10 minutes, IF they get their hands on the manual. I believe your system uses a DXM board which has 3 lights a red green and yellow. If your system is in alarm bypass the yellow light will be on.

If you have a tech work on your unit make sure they get their hands on the manual before they show up and make sure they call Climatemaster. They have an extremely helpful tech support.

I know that it makes the EPM run at 70% torque. so the motor will not ramp up. But what effect does this have on heating. Last year it was the warmest its ever been and it ran out of heat, the furnance ran so long the motor would just kick off before it reached its set temp. Tech can out and said that the loops were getting soaked by the ground water and jumped the 1st stage to a constant 2nd stage to correct the problem. I have senced changed thesettings to the + 15% setting . Do you think this will help? Thanks.

I know that it makes the motor run at 70% torque, so the motor will not ramp up. But what effect does this have on the heating. Last year it was the warmest its ever been and it would run out of heat. It would run so long that the unit would shut off before it got to the temp setting [ of only 70 ] The tech can out and said that the ground loops were getting soaked by the ground water and was told by the manufacture that he should jump 1st stage and 2nd stage together. I have remove that jumper wire, changed the setting on the dip switches so that both heating and cooling are running on the 3rd fastest setting for the blower speeds and the dip switches for 7 & 8 are now set to + 15 %. do you think this will help or is there something else? Thanks.