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In the West, A Museum In a Chateau

Published: October 16, 1988

(Page 2 of 2)

A small plaster model of ''The Thinker'' resides at Maryhill. One foot is missing - cut off by the artist and probably attached to another sculpture - and an inscription to Miss Fuller is etched at the base. There are several studies that eventually became part of ''The Burghers of Calais,'' a moody depiction of the deposed leaders of Calais dressed in sackcloth, presenting the key of the city to the King of England. There is a dramatic terra-cotta study for ''The Vase of the Titans,'' in which four hulking figures hold up what looks to be the weight of the world; and one of ''The Hand of God,'' where the incomplete figures of embracing lovers tumble out of a huge, cupped palm.

NEXT to the Rodin Gallery is a small room dedicated to Miss Fuller. ''This is the pendant on the Rodin collection,'' said Linda Brady Mountain, curator at Maryhill . ''Though she was largely forgotten after her death, Loie Fuller was a key figure in the Art Nouveau movement.This collection shows how important she was.''

She created images of birds, butterflies and flowers in her dances, through the use of fabric and light. A small, dramatic bronze sculpture by Theodore Riviere illustrates best what she looked like - a round, diminutive figure enveloped in fabric that swooped out around her in the form of a calla lily.

Emile Galle, the French glass artist, botanist and zoologist, experimented with trapping color inside glass. He was influenced by Miss Fuller's dances, as is obvious in one of the loveliest pieces in the Maryhill collection, a large, dark green vase burnished with red. On it is the delicate figure of a butterfly surrounded by waves of golden light.

A small collection of Russian icons, most donated by Queen Marie, resides on the main floor, and upstairs is a room of paintings from the Boston School, as well as a collection of paintings by Dutch and Flemish artists.

The Indian collection in the basement is a wealth of baskets and board cradles, carved fishhooks and beaded dresses - one of them hung with silver thimbles - petroglyphs from sacred Indian grounds, and feather-festooned war clubs and weapons.

The museum also owns a collection of miniature French mannequins from the 40's, which were dressed by top designers of the day. Currently undergong restoration in Paris, the collection will travel around the United States before returning to Maryhill.

Maryhill attracts 70,000 visitors a year to view its odd and intriquing collection, which is impressive. After all, it really isn't on the way to anywhere. MAKING IT TO MARYHILL The Museum

Maryhill Museum of Art (35 Maryhill Drive, Goldendale, Wash., 98620;509-773-3733) is open 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily March 15 through Nov. 15. Admission is $3; $2.50 for senior citizens, $1.50 for children 6 to 16 years of age, children under 6 admitted free. Classical, jazz and Celtic music concerts are held at Maryhill in the Queen Marie Gallery on the third Saturday of June, July, August and September. The fee is $5, $4 for members. Getting There

From Portland take I-84 to the intersection of State Route 97. Take Route 97, which crosses the Columbia River at Biggs Junction on the Sam Hill Memorial Bridge, and change to State Route 14, about three miles past the bridge. Turn left and follow the signs to Maryhill. The trip will take about two hours.

From Seattle take I-90, then I-82 to Yakima, then go south to Goldendale on U.S. 97. Turn right at Route 14 and follow the signs to Maryhill. The trip will take about four hours. Where to Eat

All prices are for two. The small cafe at Maryhill Museum is open from 10 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. daily and serves pastries, sandwiches, cold drinks and coffee. There are several tables outdoors for picnics; visitors can bring their own food.

For restaurants, the nearby towns of The Dalles (20 miles from Maryhill) and Hood River (40 miles from Maryhill) offer several opportunities.

The Stonehedge Inn (3495 Cascade Drive, Hood River, Ore.; 503-386-3940) near Exit 62 off I-82 specializes in local seafood such as clams, salmon and Dungeness crab. A meal for two is about $30 without wine. They're open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Reservations are recommended.

Join the regulars and families who crowd Johnny's Cafe (408 East Second Street, The Dalles;503-296-4565) for their plate-size pancakes, huge sandwiches, roasted chicken and seafood plates. Dinner for two is under $15, and breakfast for two is under $8. Open Monday through Saturday 5 A.M. to 8:45 P.M., Sunday 7 A.M. to 8:45 P.M.

A variety of hamburgers and sandwiches are available at the Sugar Bowl (504 West Ninth Street, The Dalles; 503-296-2956). A meal for two is about $7, without beer or wine. Open 11 A.M. to midnight daily. Lodging

All prices are for double rooms The Williams House (608 West Sixth Street, The Dalles; 503-296-2889) is a bed and breakfast in a lovely Victorian home. Don and Barbara Williams offer three comfortable, antique-filled rooms and a breakfast of granola, homemade muffins with homemade jams and jellies, and their own honey, eggs and coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Rooms range from $45 to $65.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel (4000 Westcliff Drive, Hood River; 800-345-1921 or 503-386-5566) is a popular spot for the many wind-surfers and tourists who crowd Hood River in the summer months. The 42 rooms furnished with antiques are $95 to $175, including a six-course breakfast The Far-Vue Motel (808 East Simcoe Drive, Goldendale, Wash.; 509-773- 5883) offers 34 no-frills rooms from $35, an executive suite for $90.95, and a swimming pool. Each room has a view of Mount Hood and Mount Adams. - S. H. L.