Wednesday, June 1, 2016

4 x 15 = 60

I meant to post this during the month of May. That means I'll be posting two sock patterns in June. Here is the first; it's the fourth of twelve sock patterns in my journey of 60 stitches.The featured stitch pattern has a 4-stitch repeat. So, 15
repeats equals 60 stitches total. I do love slip stitch patterns, and I’m using
two here: one in the cuff (“Double Mock Ribbing” from the Harmony Guide to
Knitting Stitches and one for the leg/instep ("Slipped Rib I" from the same book).

For these particular slip stitch
patterns, you do not need to move the yarn for the stitches that are slipped.
If the yarn is in front and the next stitch is slipped, just leave the yarn in
front when slipping. If the yarn is in back and the next stitch is slipped,
just leave the yarn in back when slipping.

The yarn I used was a birthday gift
from a friend. It’s Socks That Rockyarn (lightweight) in “Cables of Wrath” colorway, in a
skein of 5.5 ounces and approximately 405 yards. I used one skein. This yarn is
100% superwash Merino wool. I got my gauge (7 ½ sts per inch) using US size 2 (2.75
mm) needles in both slip stitch patterns. Since much of the foot is in
stockinette stitch, I switched to US size 1 (2.25mm) needles for the foot. I
got a gauge of 7 ½ stitches per inch and 21 rounds per inch in stockinette on
US size 1.

Cuff:

Loosely CO 60 sts. I used a long
tail cast on, with US size 4 (3.5 mm), then changed to US size 2 (2.75mm) for
the leg of the sock. I used a set of 4 double pointed needles and distributed
the stitches so that there were 20 sts on Needle 1, 20 sts on Needle 2, and 20
sts on Needle 3.

Round 1: knit.

Round 2: purl.

Round 3: knit.

Round 4: purl.

Round 5: *k2, p2; rep from * around.

Round 6: *sl2 wyif, p2; rep from *
around.

Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 until cuff
measures 2”.

Leg:

Knit 1 round. Then start the
“slipped rib I” pattern:

Rounds 1 and 2: *k1, sl1, k2; rep
from * around.

Rounds 3 and 4: *k3, sl1; rep from *
around.

Work these 4 rounds until sock
measures ~6 ¼ inches, end having finished a Round 4.

Heel
Flap:

Knit the first 15 stitches on Needle
1. Place the next 30 sts onto 2 needles. Slip the last 15 stitches from Needle
3 onto Needle 1. The heel flap is worked flat on the 30 sts on Needle 1. The 30
sts on the other two needles constitute the instep.

Row 1 (WS): sl1, purl to end.

Row 2: *s1, k1; rep from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until heel
flap is approximately 2 inches long, end having finished a Row 1.

Heel
Turn:

The
turned heel is made up of “short rows” with decreases. This process shapes the
heel. As a result, for each row you will work a different number of stitches,
and you will end up with fewer total stitches than you started with.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k16, ssk, k1, turn
work.

Row 2: sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
work.

Row 3: sl1, k to 1 st before “gap”, ssk, K1, turn work.

Row 4:
sl1, p to 1 st before “gap”, p2tog, P1, turn work.

Repeat
rows 3 and 4 until 18 sts remain, having finished a row 4.

Next row:
sl1, knit across.

Gusset:

Here is where I switched to US size 1 (2.25mm)
needles.

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the right side of
the heel flap. To do this, insert right needle under the first edge stitch
(under both strands of the stitch), wrap the working yarn around the needle,
and pull a stitch through (one stitch has now been picked up and knitted). Repeat
this process until 16 stitches have been picked up.

Slip the following 30 sts onto one needle. These
stitches constitute the instep of the sock. Work these 30 sts following Round 1
of the instep pattern (see below).

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the left side of
the heel flap.

Onto this same needle, knit the next 9 stitches
(from the remaining heel stitches). Slip the remaining 9 heel stitches onto
Needle 1 (with the right side gusset).

You now have 25 sts on Needle 1, 30 sts on
Needle 2, and 25 sts on Needle 3. The middle of the heel falls between Needle 3
and Needle 1. Consider this point to be the beginning of the round.

At this point, there will be 4 sts
on Needle 1, 8 sts on Needle 2, and 4 sts on Needle 3. Now, knit the next 4 sts
onto Needle 3, leaving 8 sts on Needle 2 and 8 sts on Needle 3.

Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch:

Cut the working yarn, leaving a 20
inch or longer tail. Thread this tail through a darning needle. Orient the sock
so that the 2 needles are horizontal, the instep side of the sock is facing
you, and the working yarn is coming off the right side of the needle in the
back.

Step 1: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on
the front needle as if to knit, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off
the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the front needle as
if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert darning needle into the first stitch on
the back needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through and slip this stitch off
the needle. Insert darning needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if
to knit, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on the needle.

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches
have been worked and slipped off the needles.