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Power tube question/problem

So my mag leaks air as soon as it's gased up. Pull trigger and hold it stops. let go and it's almost like I have to flick the trigger to get it to reset. Still leaking and sometimes chuffing(almost like an rt effect)the whole time. The o-rings in the power tube were replaced and still the same thing. I swapped valves into a know working gun and same thing. Not sure what to do. Are there different spacers or shims for the classic valves? Any tips or tricks to get this thing running?

Yep. Sounds like you need to move down a spacer size. I actually have a couple of spare spacer kits that just came in a bulk buy if you want a complete kit. Has 5 spacer sizes to tech with. PM me if interested.

what bolt are you using? what shape is it in? take a bolt from a known working mag and swap it into your broken mag and see if that helps (vice versa, try the "broken" bolt in the working mag and see what happens).

take a look at the bolt lip (part that catches the sear). is it sharp? rounded? damaged? check the sear edge that catches the bolt, is it still sharp or is it rounded / chipped / damaged? after you've swapped bolts, try the "broken" bolt in the broken mag with the sear assembly from a good working mag and see what happens (vice versa, try the "broken" sear in a good mag).

the benefits of having a good mag; you can swap stuff until you find out where the problem is.

What OPBN said. Check to see if the spacer you have in the tube is numbered. Like .220 or some thing like that(they're brass or Alum.) if you have a spring in the power tube buy one of OPBN's kits and play with different length's until it works. Read all the advice you get here because there are a lot of excellent Mag smiths here to help you. It some times seems that you get contradictory advice , but some times it's a combo of problems. Worn bolt, loose o-rings , bad bolt spring, and then there's always oil it. Then there's Tuesday, gun worked great last Sat. now it's Tue. and won't shoot. Not even TK has figured this one out. Could be just flurb in the valve.

So I just tore it down again. the spacer that I have in now is 220. The bolt is a stock lvl7 spring is new and sear is not worn or damaged. Going to try a spacer kit and see how that works. Next question is what sizes come in the kits and which direction do I go with the spacer up or down in size?

So I just tore it down again. the spacer that I have in now is 220. The bolt is a stock lvl7 spring is new and sear is not worn or damaged. Going to try a spacer kit and see how that works. Next question is what sizes come in the kits and which direction do I go with the spacer up or down in size?

you know what, i would replace the power tube o-ring. yes i saw that you already did that, but believe it or not they vary in tolerances quite a bit. some are much smaller than others, or thinner. for instance, i have an o-ring that's so small it wouldn't seal in my on/off bottom, and it was brand new!

so that's my advice at this stage, just keep swapping out the power tube o-ring and make sure to give it a coating of oil. another way is to just put a couple drops of oil on a q-tip, and swab the bolt stem.

I was rereading the problem. I missed the part where you need to "flick the trigger" to get it to reset. Do you mean that the trigger rod does not come forward after you release the trigger? If that is the case, then your powertube spacer may be too short. It causes bolt stick which may allow remaining air to escape down the powertube. You can add a level 10 shim between the powertube tip and spacer to turn your 0.220 spacer into a 0.230 spacer. It will be an easy fix if that is the problem.