My scratch built rudder worked very nice. Notice how it turns nicely while taxiing. It also takes off and lands nicely. Here is the proof. (A rudder photo is a few posts back). I could not turn at will on the maiden flight before I put on the rudder.

Gorgeous plane and beautiful flight. Those floats look like they belong on that Taylorcraft. I can't wait to see the pics after you get the stripes on them.

That landing was sooo perfect. How long did it take for the smile to go away? And it looks like the water rudder is very responsive. Nice job.

I had this plane and it is a really good and docile flyer. Powered it with the E Flite 480. It does basics areobatics with ease and has a really nice scale touches for a ARF. Unforunately I lost the plane due a stripped out HS55 on a alieron that I did not catch

Anyone got the color of the red on this plane? I am sure I read what that color was somewhere in this thread but none of my searches have been able to locate it. I am having a decal made for my TC and want the decal color to be as close as possible to the real color of the red.

I am having a decal made for my TC and want the decal color to be as close as possible to the real color of the red.

Freddy

I did some digging around for either the RGB or the CMYK conversion but came up empty. Problem is the output on the printer since no two are the same.

Best thing I can say is to load a high quality raw image (of the covering) onto your graphic designers computer and open it up in something like Paint Shop Pro or eqiv. Use the eyedropper tool to select a part of the image you think matches. That will show you the RGB code. The designer should have something better like PhotoShop for doing this. PS lists rgb & cmyk under the picker. Then you can print a few different small 1" x 1" boxes with different color codes and match the printer output to an actual piece of the covering. Small graphics don't really show up as a color mis-match but large ones do.

It's not as complicated as it seems, it's just time consuming. The only other method is if you have a sign shop vendor that can cut vinyl. (like ultracote)They can load the covering into the cutter and just cut the material for your graphic. This doesn't always work because most of the sign shops use a heavier type of material. Ultracote tends to peel off the backing during the cut process. More so if the graphics are made of small details. Here's a shot of the logos I made in Corel Draw and sent to my local sign shop for printing & cutting on clear sticky back. Peel & Apply. HTH.. (these fit my TC just perfect and add a bit of pizazz)

I hear you on the Callie-Graphics.com. Great service at very reasonable prices.

It appears that there are 2 logos for Taylorcraft. The one on your plane, like this,

and this one which looks like the one on the full scale N4417B that you linked to. It is hard to tell if it is in fact this logo in the picture. Here is that logo,

Looking though Taylorcraft planes at airliners.net, I find both of these logos being used along with at least one other that just says "Taylorcraft" in fancy script lettering. The Taylorcraft ball caps available online use the logo that is not the wing style.
And, while finding the cap I found this. LOL The plane is a Taylorcraft.

I have Callie doing some vinyl graphics for my Taylorcraft right now. She even has access to the color that matches the Ultracoat Deep Red by Hangar 9 used on this plane. I think I will ask Callie to do the Taylorcraft wing style of logo in the Deep Red to put on my plane.

Just because Calli-Graphics was brought up, here is a pic of my newest plane. The Echo decal on the tail, my wife's name for the plane, was designed and produced by Callie. I just gave her an idea and she ran with it.

I just talked to my Dad. He told me that the guy that owns the company that he works for, just bought an old Taylorcraft, in FLYABLE condition, for $4000!
Not sure what model it is, but I will find out more. The guy also owns a Cirrus SR22.
Not models, the real deal!

Hello all, I'm looking for some landing tips for the T-Craft. Mine crashed on its second flight several months ago, but I rebuilt it. The second maiden was yesterday, and everything went fine. My favorite thing to do with scale GA planes is touch and goes. I found making a good touchdown challenging. It may be because this plane is so light. I fly it with some TP1320's. My approaches look good, I tried 3 pt landings and wheel landings. The wheel landings usually look a bit smoother, but it still bounces almost every time. I am thinking of trying an 1800 or 2200 to see if a slightly heavier wing loading tames it down a bit.
I've also considered some different wheels with a bit of shock absorbing quality.

Also, just to ease anyone's concern, this is not my first plane. I've been flying RC for 25 years. I really just wanted to know if anyone else has had trouble making smooth scale like landings. I did land in the grass next to the paved runway, and that made everything better, but I had to keep it quick on the ground, or it wouldn't take back off with the little wheels.

I landed the Taylorcraft with wheels a couple of times to trim it up before I put on floats. I turn off power coming out of the approach turn. I may give it a little burst of power during a approach if it looks like it is moving too slow. Power is definitely off when I reach the runway.
As I reach the runway I level off my plane. I try to fly the plane a couple of inches above the ground and let sink rate cause it to touch down. As the plane sinks I keep "trying" to make it fly until it touches down.

Hello all, I'm looking for some landing tips for the T-Craft. I fly it with some TP1320's. I am thinking of trying an 1800 or 2200 to see if a slightly heavier wing loading tames it down a bit.
I've also considered some different wheels with a bit of shock absorbing quality.
Thanks, Ryan

Practice practice practice. For T&G's, I always have some power on and never let the TW settle in. For landing, same thing and chop the power after my main gear is down and then let the tw settle in. There's a real fine line in having just enough power to keep the tail up and go down the RW on the main gear vs lifting off or the tail settling in. Have you tried some taxing without lifting off but the tail is up? I switched over to the Dubro 1.75" foam treaded tires to help reduce bounce. I also use 2200 size packs. Gives a tad more weight to stay settled in & CG is perfect. With practice, you can go for 3~400' just on the mains and it looks sweet. HTH

Practice practice practice. For T&G's, I always have some power on and never let the TW settle in. For landing, same thing and chop the power after my main gear is down and then let the tw settle in. There's a real fine line in having just enough power to keep the tail up and go down the RW on the main gear vs lifting off or the tail settling in. Have you tried some taxing without lifting off but the tail is up? I switched over to the Dubro 1.75" foam treaded tires to help reduce bounce. I also use 2200 size packs. Gives a tad more weight to stay settled in & CG is perfect. With practice, you can go for 3~400' just on the mains and it looks sweet. HTH

Dan

Yep,,you must keep a little power on all the way to the floor to get good stable slow flight to land or touch and go and i use 2200mah as i like the solid feel of a bit of weight .