Bert's: Restaurant review

Address

Hours

Prices

E $16-$33M $33-$125D $18

REVIEW

It's tempting to describe Bert's as Fred's-goes-to-Newport. Certainly this large gorgeous restaurant atop the former Newport Arms owes more than a dash of its sunny elegance and Med-luxe vibe to Merivale's Paddington flagship. But chef Jordan Toft gives it a flavour all its own, putting top spin on dishes not with squiggles and tizz but with smart, flavoursome ideas, cutting the buttery riches of ruffled reginette semolina pasta and red mullet with sea succulents, for instance, and deploying avocado oil and yoghurt to make an airy dream of grilled cucumbers. You could do Bert's without the top-dollar likes of hand-picked crab meat, rippled with Basque spice and breadcrumbs, or the superbly cooked whole flounder. But, what with the temptations of the succulent wine list and the easy grace of the service, you really are better off going hard than going home.

This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide2019 Top 100 Rank - #23Food: ★★Wine: ★ ★Gourmet Traveller's star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers' first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant's wine list. View our rating key here.