How To Install SVE 75mm Throttle Body & Plenum

Each BBK Full length header system is CAD designed and manufactured with 1 5/8" CNC mandrel bent tubing for unrestrictive airflow. ALL BBK exhaust headers are pressure tested to ensure a leak free performance. The BBK full length headers are available in either a chrome or ceramic coated finish and high quality, 304 stainless steel construction. They are made right here in the USA and will include gaskets, hardware, and o2 extensions.

When making the move to the BBK full length headers, you’ll need to swap the mid-pipe for BBK’s off-road or catalytic x-pipe. Both x-pipes will bolt directly to your new BBK headers as well as the factory cat back or an aftermarket cat back that has factory style connections. Its 2 ¾” mandrel bent tubing will allow for a more free flowing exhaust system… resulting in more power. Like the headers, each x-pipe is made in the USA and will include all needed hardware for installation.

Baseline Dyno 273HP/296TQ

87 Octane

MSD Coil on Plugs

BBK Varitune Catback

3.55 Gears

TR3650 Transmission (5 Speed)

19" wheels/tires

Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)

After Dyno 295HP/319TQ +22HP/+23TQ

BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers

BBK Off-Road X-Pipe

SCT Strategy Tune via X4 Tuner

87 Octane

MSD Coil on Plugs

BBK Varitune Catback

3.55 Gears

TR3650 Transmission (5 Speed)

19" wheels/tires

Pull was made in 4th gear (1:1)

Required Tools

Install

Remove the positive and negative battery cables with the eight millimeter socket.

Remove the battery hold down bolt with the eight millimeter socket, then remove the battery from the tray.

Loosen the three eight millimeter bolts, then remove the battery tray from the car.

With the battery tray out of the car, take this time to disconnect the passenger side top O2 sensor.

Disconnect the vapor tube from the EVAP canister purge valve.

Slide the e-vac canister purge valve off the strut tower and position it out of your way.

Loosen the dipstick bolt with an eight millimeter socket, and then carefully remove the dipstick from the car.

Loosen the ten millimeter air box bolt.

Disconnect the mass airflow sensor, and vacuum light on the intake elbow.

Loosen the hose clamp holding the intake elbow to the throttle body, and then remove the air intake assembly from the car.

Loosen all the upper header bolts on the driver and passenger side.

Keep in mind, some nuts will come off with the stud still attached.

Remove the top motor mount nuts with the 15 millimeter socket.

With a small ratchet wrench and a 13 millimeter socket, loosen the top steering shaft bolt.

Moving underneath the car, remove the four control arm support brace nuts with a 13 millimeter socket and then remove the brakes from the car.

Disconnect the rear O2 sensors.

Spray quality penetrative oil on the factory mid-pipe to manifold nuts, then loosen the nuts with a few extensions and the 13 millimeter socket.

Loosen the mid-pipe to tail pipe exhaust leads with a 50 millimeter socket.

Pry the small tab up with a flat head screwdriver and slide the sleeve back.

Use a rubber mallet, if needed, to separate the mid-pipe and tail pipes.

Now remove the factory mid-pipe from the car.

Remove the three starter bolts with a 10 millimeter socket.

A few extensions and a swivel socket will come in handy.

Carefully remove the starter from the bell housing.

Remove the solenoid cover and loosen the two nuts with a 13 millimeter and 10 millimeter socket.

Now you can remove the starter from the car.

Remove the lower steering shaft bolt with a 13 millimeter socket and then mark the shaft's orientation.

Remove the steering shaft from the car.

Raise the engine until it clears the motor mount stud by jacking up on the front of the oil pan near the crank pulley.

With a 13 millimeter socket and breaker bar, loosen the four driver side motor mount bolts.

Do the same for the passenger side except the front bolt will have a 13 millimeter nut and a 15 millimeter bolt holding down a groundwire.

Remove both motor mounts from the car.

Disconnect the driver's side front O2 sensor.

Loosen the four lower exhaust manifold nuts with a 13 millimeter socket.

Remove the manifold from the car.

Don't forget to remove the factory metal gaskets, but be careful, since these can be sharp.

Do the same for the passenger side.

Connect the two included front O2 sensor extensions.

On the driver's side if the lower cylinder number seven stud stayed attached, remove it with a five millimeter socket.

This stud has to be removed because it will come in contact with one of the header primaries, causing the header not to fit.

Install the included gaskets, and the position the driver side header onto any studs that remain in the cylinder head.

Loosely tighten the factory nuts and then install the included hardware into any open holes in the cylinder head.

Moving to the passenger side, make sure the top stud on cylinder number three is removed.

One of the included bolts will need to be modified later.

Position the header over any of the remaining factors studs and loosely tighten the nuts.

Install the included hardware into any of the remaining holes in the cylinder head.

Torque the bolt so you get access to 18 and a half foot pounds on both the driver side and passenger side.

Re-install your motor mounts and then lower the engine.

Re-install your steering shaft and starter.

Grab your driver side exhaust manifold and then remove the front O2 sensor with the 7/8 open end wrench.

Do the same for the other three O2 sensors on the factory mid-pipe.

Position the x-pipe into place and install the previously removed O2 sensors.

Thread the included studs into the long tube header collector, and then tighten the nuts with a 21 millimeter socket.

Reposition your tail pipes with the x-pipe, and tighten the exhaust sleeves.

File down the small tabs on the front O2 sensors, and then connect them to the extensions.

Connect the rear O2 extensions, and then zip tie all of your connections and wires away from the exhaust.

Moving to the top of the car, install any factory nuts or included bolts and torque to 18 and 1/2 foot pounds on the driver and passenger side.

On the passenger side header, you'll need to mark the threads on one of the included bolts.

You will then cut at the mark, file down any rough areas, and torque to spec.

Reinstall all of your components that you removed in the engine bay, give everything a good once over, and you're all done.

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About the Video

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Published on 2015-04-01BBK Performance Headers.Each BBK full-length header system is CAD designed and manufactured with 1-5/8" CNC mandrel bent tubing for unrestrictive airflow. All BBK exhaust headers are pressure tested to ensure a leak-free performance. The BBK full-length headers are available in either a chrome or ceramic coated finish and high quality, 304 stainless steel construction. They are made right here in the USA and will include gaskets, hardware, and o2 extensions.

BBK X-Pipes.When making a move to the BBK full-length headers, you’ll need to swap the mid-pipe for BBK’s off-road or catalytic x-pipe. Both x-pipes will bolt directly to your new BBK headers as well as the factory cat back or an aftermarket cat back that has factory style connections. Its 2-3/4" mandrel bent tubing will allow for a more free flowing exhaust system; resulting in more power. Like the headers, each x-pipe is made in the USA and will include all needed hardware for installation.

TranscriptWhat's up everybody? Landan with latemodelrestoration.com. Today I'm going to be checking out and installing BBK ceramic coated long tube headers and x-pipe for the 2005 to 2010 Mustang GT. Since 1988, BBK has dedicated itself to designing and building cutting edge high performance parts and accessories for the Mustang.

BBK is known for offering unmatched value and quality all while maintaining an OEM fit and finish. Each BBK full length header system is CAD designed and manufactured with 1 and 5/8-inch CNC Mandrel bent tubing for non-restrictive airflow. All BBK exhaust headers are pressure tested to ensure a leak-free performance.

The BBK full length headers are available to either a chrome or ceramic coated finish and high quality, 304 stainless steel construction. They are made right here in the USA and will include all gaskets, hardware, and O2 extensions. When making the move to the BBK full length headers, you'll need to swap the mid pipe for BBK's off-road or catalytic x-pipe.

Both x-pipes will bolt directly to your new BBK headers as well as the factory cap back or an after market cap back that has the factory style connection. Its 2 and 3/4-inch, Mandrel bent tubing will allow for a more free flowing exhaust system, resulting in more power. Like the headers, each x-pipe is made in the USA and will include all needed hardware for installation.

Prior to installation of the BBK full length headers, we decided to go with the off-road x-pipe. It is recommended that you purchase a SET X4 Tuner to further maximize your performance gains and have the ability to turn off the rear O2 sensors. All off-road mid-pipes do not have catalytic converters and are manufactured and represented only for off-road use.

Before we tackle this installation, let's draft this '07 GT to our dyno and see what it lays down as stock trim. The only performance modifications to this Mustang is BBK's Varitune axle-backs and MSD coil packs.

[ENGINE REVVING]

For our baseline numbers, the car made 273 horsepower and 296 foot pounds of torque. Now let's get the car in the air and show you how to install the BBK full length headers and x-pipe. Then we'll get the car back on the dyno and see how much power we were able to pick up. To begin installation, start by placing the car on a lift or jack and jack stands, allowing for plenty of work room.

Remove the positive and negative battery cables with the eight millimeter socket. Next, remove the battery hold down bolt with the eight millimeter socket, then remove the battery from the tray. Loosen the three eight millimeter bolts, then remove the battery tray from the car. With the battery tray out of the car, take this time to disconnect the passenger side top O2 sensor.

On the driver's side, disconnect the vapor tube from the e-vap canister purge valve. Then slide the e-vac canister purge valve off the strut tower and position it out of your way. Loosen the dip stick bolt with an eight millimeter socket, and then carefully remove the dip stick from the car. Loosen the ten millimeter air box bolt. Disconnect the mass airflow sensor, and vacuum light on the intake elbow.

Then loosen the hose clamp holding the intake elbow to the throttle body, and then remove the air intake assembly from the car. Loosen all the upper header bolts on the driver and passenger side. Keep in mind, some nuts will come off with the stud still attached. Now, remove the top motor mount nuts with the 15 millimeter socket. With a small ratchet wrench and a 13 millimeter socket, loosen the top steering shaft bolt.

Moving underneath the car, remove the four control arm support brace nuts with a 13 millimeter socket and then remove the brakes from the car. Disconnect the rear O2 sensors. Spray quality penetrative oil on the factory mid-pipe to manifold nuts, then loosen the nuts with a few extensions and the 13 millimeter socket.

Loosen the mid-pipe to tail pipe exhaust leads with a 50 millimeter socket. Pry the small tab up with a flat head screwdriver and slide the sleeve back. Use a rubber mallet, if needed, to separate the mid-pipe and tail pipes. Now remove the factory mid-pipe from the car. Remove the three starter bolts with a 10 millimeter socket. A few extensions and a swivel socket will come in handy.

Carefully remove the starter from the bell housing. Remove the solenoid cover and loosen the two nuts with a 13 millimeter and 10 millimeter socket. Now you can remove the starter from the car. Remove the lower steering shaft bolt with a 13 millimeter socket and then mark the shaft's orientation. Next, remove the steering shaft from the car.

Raise the engine until it clears the motor mount stud by jacking up on the front of the oil pan near the crankport. With a 13 millimeter socket and breaker bar, loosen the four driver side motor mount bolts. Do the same for the passenger side except the front bolt will have a 13 millimeter nut and a 15 millimeter bolt holding down a groundwire. Remove both motor mounts from the car.

Disconnect the driver's side front O2 sensor. Loosen the four lower exhaust manifold nuts with a 13 millimeter socket. Then you can remove the manifold from the car. Don't forget to remove the factory metal gaskets, but be careful, since these can be sharp. Do the same for the passenger side. Next, connect the two included front O2 sensor extensions.

On the driver's side if the lower cylinder number seven stud stayed attached, remove it with a five millimeter socket. This stud has to be removed because it will come in contact with one of header primaries, causing the header not to fit. Install the included gaskets, and the position the driver side header onto any studs that remain in the cylinder head.

Loosely tighten the factory nuts and then install the included hardware into any open holes in the cylinder head. Moving to the passenger side, make sure the top stud on cylinder number three is removed. One of the included bolts will need to be modified later. Position the header over any of the remaining factors studs and loosely tighten the nuts. Then, install the included hardware into any of the remaining holes in the cylinder head.

Now, torque the bolt so you get access to 18 and a half foot pounds on both the driver side and passenger side. Re-install your motor mounts and then lower the engine. Re-install your steering shaft and starter. Grab your driver side exhaust manifold and then remove the front O2 sensor with the 7/8 open end wrench. Do the same for the other three O2 sensors on the factory mid-pipe.

Position the x-pipe into place and install the previously removed O2 sensors. Thread the included studs into the long tube header collector, and then tighten the nuts with a 21 millimeter socket. Reposition your tail pipes with the x-pipe, and tighten the exhaust sleeves. File down the small tabs on the front O2 sensors, and then connect them to the extensions.

Connect the rear O2 extensions, and then zip tie all of your connections and wires away from the exhaust. Moving to the top of the car, install any factory nuts or included bolts and torque to 18 and 1/2 foot pounds on the driver and passenger side. On the passenger side header, you'll need to mark the threads on one of the included bolts.

You will then cut at the mark, file down any rough areas, and torque to spec. After that, reinstall all of your components that you removed in the engine bay, give everything a good once over, and you're all done. All right, guys. We just wrapped up the install of our BBK full length headers and x-pipe, but before we made our dyno pool we flashed the PCM with the SET strategy tune via an X4 tuner.

The preloader strategy tune for BBK long tube headers will help optimize the car's performance, allowing for better driveability and power. We were also able to turn off the rear O2 sensors since the x-pipe does not have catalytic converters. There's only one thing left to do. Let's turn the rollers and see if we were able to squeeze out some more power from this three valve.

[ENGINE REVVING]

Well, guys, we definitely picked up some power and the car sounds pretty nasty. It laid down 295 horsepower and 319 foot pounds of torque, which equates to an improvement of 22 horsepower and 23 foot pounds of torque. The BBK full length headers and off-road x-pipe was a pretty straightforward install. Installation should take you around six hours to complete if you don't run into any issues.

For more helpful an in-depth how tos, go ahead and click the link below, or in the video description, to subscribe to our YouTube channel if you haven't already done so. And of course, you can pick up your BBK full length headers and x-pipe from latemodelrestoration.com.