Step 1: Assemble your supplies

OK, you are going to need lots and lots of pop tabs. Don't give yourself renal failure trying to drink them all yourself. Spread it out or enlist the help of your family, friends, workmates, or maybe even the local recycling center. Here is what you will need:

CuttersStaple removerOld keyNon-mangled pop tabs (however many you need, 1000 is a good start)

Step 2: Prepare the tabs

You will need to prepare the tabs for the weaving. Bend the collar down from the "top" side of the tab using the tumbler side of the key. Then use the back of the key to continue bending it down against the side of the tab. Lay the tab face down and push the cupped part down flat.

Step 3: Cut

Now that all your tabs are flat and consistent, you need to cut and crimp them.

Cut them in the very middle of the pull part of the tab, or for a stronger connection, on the rivet side, either way just be consistent.

Step 4: Bend

The tabs will need to be bent slightly so they will lay together properly. This is where the staple remover comes it. Turns out it gives it just the right amount of bend. Put the tab in cut side first and close the tool down so that one side holds the cuts and the "bridge" is over the metal edge on the other side. Press with your finger and, bam! you're done.

Step 5: Repeat

Keep making the links, do them all at once, do them in batches. Either way, its pretty easy to make them.

One note: If you are using cutters, you can bend the tabs first, if you are using scissors you have to cut them first.

Just a few questions: Why do they need the metal ring on the pop tab still (don't you just bend it away anyhow?) Also, why do you bend it with the staple remover, are there any other ways, or items to use?

These are good questions. When the metal ring is still on the tab it allows you to have a folded metal edge instead of the the sharp irregular edge of a broken ring.

I used the staple remover primarily because it was handy at my desk and gave the tabs a consistent amount of bend. It can easily be done with any other tool, though. It can easily be done with pliers, but the consistency will be a bit more difficult. I think one person in the comments (buried way down there somewhere) said he was going to make a wooden jig in a clamp to do several at once.

I made a shirt freshman year of high school for a Halloween costume, and here's how. I measured how big around my chest was, then made a strip the length of my circumference and 4 tabs tall. I pinned it down and continued adding rows until it was the length of my torso, then added tabs in a way that would go around my neck and connect together over my shoulders. I did the same for my arms (measuring circumference, etc.), but removed a tab every once in a while going down so that it would be more form fitting (since my shoulders/biceps are larger than my wrists). I then connected* the shoulder part of the arm pieces to the holes left by the shoulder part of the shirt. Finally I wore a gray shirt underneath to compliment the metal and protect my skin. Eventually I hand-sewed the edges of the cotton shirt to the tabs to keep everything from moving around too much. Everyone loved my costume, and years later I still have it, although I eventually took the sleeves off because I had little flexibility with them attached. *connected using more tabs, not wire or any other means

Do you experience the tabs constantly coming undone while trying to put these together? So far I've put together about 50 tabs and it is a nightmare when it all crinkles together into a roll of tabs that start to come undone when I'm trying to flatten it back out. Are there any tips or tricks that might be able to make the cut tips not allow other parts to slip back out?

Huge amount of work for something that is structurally weak and a tactical nightmare. If you need armor, wear a jacket. If you need more, wear two jackets. If you need still more, then play Nerf instead. This mail is awesome, but it really won't help on the field. Maybe as a little decorative patch on the back of a glove or something, but that is about it.

cardboard works ok for this, a duct tape vest is better. if you dont want to put a lot of time into a duct tape garment, i suppose you could just put one or two layers of tape on the cardboard. or just wear a sweatshirt with a hood.

At this stage, I find that just pinching the tabs a few times with the pliers helps to get a good, center cut. I also found that bending the tabs before cutting them doesn't make the cut side turn out so bent out of shape.

I actually tried this a few years ago, and I am now making another attempt at it. I want to make a shirt for a Link Cosplay I had in mind.

I know this is a really old instructable, but someone might read it. Depending on the way you prefer to join the links you only need to cut half the rings. I just crimp all of mine and cut only what I need before I start a 'mailling' session. I am sure it would increase strength too.

It's worth a shot.. When I've been making standard ring maille, I use a pair of 'Duck-Bill' long-reach pliers from Sears.. (Item# 00945087000 | Model# 45087 ).. they have a wider width jaw than needle-nose pliers, about 5/16" width.. they might be about the right width to grab each tab, and use the other (or even a pair of lineman's pliers) to make the bend. I will say, from someone who's made chain maille for close to 28 years, I am impressed by this! Yes, it would take a L-O-N-G time to make an entire suit of these.. the present suit I wear to ren faires, is 14-guage FyShock aluminum electric fence wire. (well past 4000 rings!) it takes lots of patience, and persistence to complete.

I use an adjustable wrench, make it just wide enough to slip a tab inand out and duct tape the worm gear at that position. I got prettygood at it. If you want to see the finished shirt you can checkout my instructable

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