Assemble the frame. There are lots of tiny screws of different sizes. A vernier caliper will come in handyLay out the FC and the ESC. Ignore the standoffs and screws included in the FC and ESC package and use the screws included with the Rakonheli frame kit.Note the FC is not facing forward. This is so that the USB port will be accessible. We will need to configure orientation to -90 yaw in Betaflight.Â

Plug in the FC-to-ESC harness and assemble the FC and ESC stack.When mounting the ESC and FC together using the metal screws, if the screws touch, it may cause a short. Best to use nylon screws. If you have to use the metal screws, shorten them. Finally use multitester to see that thereâ€™s no continuity on the corresponding screws of the FC and ESC.

Review pad layoutMount the motors.Â Ignore the screws included with the Rakonheli frame kit (which are too small) and use the screws included with the motor package.Mount the stack onto the framePre-tin the battery pads and ESC pads

Solder in the battery pigtail to the battery pads and the motors wires to the ESC padsThis Â is probably the hardest part of the build. You will need to trim the motor wires and strip the ends. Then, set your iron to 400Â°C, add some solder to the tip and Â burn off the copper wire’s coating. Finally, solder with your iron set to 350Â°C and use flux.

Solder the RX, VTX, and camera wires to the FC.Once all soldering is done, check continuity between B+ and B- with a multitester. There should be NO continuity.

Cross your fingers, plug-in the battery and check for magic smoke

Install the canopy and props. Note that the canopy needs some trimming to properly fit.Done!