Hello everyone , I hope that all is well. I am currently working on building a high-steer setup for my Jeep. In doing so, I am going to have to make a custom steering linkage (drag link and tie rod) that uses Chevy 7/8"- 18 tpi tie rod ends.

I have found at least two ways of doing this:
Threading the DOM tubes themselves to accept the tie rod end
OR
Welding a threaded tube adapter into each end of the tubes.

As I'm not an expert in fabrication, I would like to get some opinions on which of these options would be the safest, most reliable way to do this.

Also, it may be helpful to know that I am planning to have something like 1.0" ID / 1.50" OD .250" wall Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tubing used for the construction of my linkage.

Either way is perfectly acceptable & safe. The main reason most people use weld in bungs is that the big taps, especially the left handed one, are big $$. Are you making these yourself or having them made?

Ruff Stuff sells GM taper inserts. Drill out your current taper with a 7/8" step bit and insert the GM taper. You now have GM taper on what ever arm/knuckle you need it on.

Who said anything about the tapers? The OP is asking about tapping the tube or welding on threaded inserts. Also I'm pretty sure Ruffstuff only makes them for the TREs and not DLEs (drag link ends).

OP: That size tube will work if you plan on using weld on adapters (if you get one that need a 1" ID tube) however it will not work if you want to tap it. That will require a tube with a thicker wall or a smaller OD. I'm not sure of the exact size off hand but the ID will need to be less than 7/8".

I went with the Ruff Stuff stuff. They show a kit online, but when you call they add whatever you need to get it done. I did the welded adapters since I could weld but don't have the big taps. I went with their heims and just drilled out my D30 knuckle to 3/4". My bill for all the parts for the tie rod was $100 or so.

Who said anything about the tapers? The OP is asking about tapping the tube or welding on threaded inserts. Also I'm pretty sure Ruffstuff only makes them for the TREs and not DLEs (drag link ends).

OP: That size tube will work if you plan on using weld on adapters (if you get one that need a 1" ID tube) however it will not work if you want to tap it. That will require a tube with a thicker wall or a smaller OD. I'm not sure of the exact size off hand but the ID will need to be less than 7/8".

Sorry misread it. If he is going to Chevy rod ends the taper will have to be addressed at the pitman arm at least and potentially at the knuckle depending on how it the tie rod will be run. FWIW you can get Jeep pitman arms with Chevy taper top down or bottom up from WFO Concepts.

Anyway, Ruff Stuff sells the DOM tube, weld in threaded inserts for the rod ends, and both rod ends for drag link and tie rod. My whole cross over set up came from Ruff Stuff.

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A word of caution on using the weld-in adapters. Be careful how much heat you throw at it when you weld them in - too much and you will wind up needing the taps anyway. Ask me how I know...

I recently built a set of 2.25" x .375 chromo lower control arms using 1.5" weld in adapters. In my quest to get good penetration from the weld, I distorted the threads just a bit - and then had to buy a couple of these, left and right hand. Hard to tell from the picture, but those are 1.25" x 12 taps at a bit over $100 a piece.

Weld the bungs in with the Hiem joint in or on the threads, add never seize to the threads and while the joint is burning off the never seize keep threading the joint in and out. As it cools it will shrink, but as long as you keep the joint moving and lubed it won't screw up the threads or freeze.

Weld the bungs in with the Hiem joint in or on the threads, add never seize to the threads and while the joint is burning off the never seize keep threading the joint in and out. As it cools it will shrink, but as long as you keep the joint moving and lubed it won't screw up the threads or freeze.

Jason.

I tried that when I built a custom steering setup a while back.

I seized 3 of the 6 heims I was using.

since then I have welded a number of them without the joint threaded in and have not had one get seized or even need a tap.

I put anti-spatter on the threads before I weld to keep any slag from damaging the threads.

and I always let them cool completely before threading anything in and I use an old heim to check, just in case.