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NN5/RD16 - does RD16 have a 'clutch'?

Whilst awaiting delivery of my NN5/RD16, I've been doing lots of stitching tests with a friend's Manfrotto 303. Only today I discovered that the rotator on the Manfrotto 303 has a clutch mechanism.

This allows the user to align the detents so that a detent can be placed right at the centre of a stitch.

This is a useful feature for me (and something I had been missing, until I figured it out.)

Looking at the NN demo video of the RD16, there doesn't seem to be a clutch facility.

So, assuming there's no clutch on the RD16, what can I add to my set-up that will allow me to position the detents according to the frame I plan to shoot?

I'm already thinking of getting some sort of leveling system, so I'm wondering whether the type of leveling base that uses a ball, will allow for rotation of the head (as well as tilting for leveling)?

Comment

to get a good starting point for the Nadir shots, especially using the nadir adapter, you have to set the rig in a special way. The lower rail has to be set exactly 90º to two legs of the tripod. And then you place your tripod to the direction you want to start with.

So turning the rotator to the desired direction without turning the complete set, will let you end with a bad Nadir shot.

As Nick mentioned, no problem to set up the desired center of your pano in stitching software, you can change that in PTGui Preview quite easily.

Regards,
Heinz

Comment

Nick
"We listen." you say. Well you did not. I pointed out the importance of the 300N "free gear" for several reasons already during your first presentation of your rotator but you did not listen.
I really miss it but fortunately I have old tripods with round centre column which I can use to do at least the important choice of start point.

The correct start point is not just important for the first image but also for the zenith when you shoot fullframe -zenith at +60 degrees. If you want your template to perform optimally it should be placed the same place as in the template.
It is much easier if you have what elliot call a clutch.

Hans

Comment

I'm not making 360 panoramas. I'm making multirow rectilinear stitches for prints - sometimes with the tripod in a tight corner. My tripod is a Manfrotto 055, so I can't rotate the central column. The clutch on the Manfrotto 303 allows me to orientate the detents to my desired stitch. For example, if I'm shooting a simple 3 frame, single row stitch (with a 24m lens, and 35 degree detents), I need my central frame placed on a detent. If I'm backed into a corner with my tripod, turning the tripod may not be a possibility.

The 303SPH also features a unique clutch ring, which allows you to align your detents relative to the scene you are shooting (such as squaring your initial shot with a wall or door) without having to move or realign the tripod. When I first received this head, I felt this latter feature was unnecessary and that it should have been eliminated to save on size and weight. However, I now find it very useful after having used the head for a while.

So to return to my original question. How can I modify my set-up to get the necessary rotation to realign the detents? Would a ball-type levelling base do the trick? Or are they designed not to rotate? Otherwise, I guess the answer is to put the NN5 on a sturdy ballhead. Or to get a Manfrotto 300N instead of the RD16. That would be a trade-off, as the RD16 has 3.75, 6, and 7.5 degree detents not found on the 300N - potentially useful if I want to use focal lengths between 80mm and 200mm on my Nikkor 80-200/2,8.

Comment

When you have a look to manfrotto' spare parts list you can see it has no locking device.

If you have a manfrotto tripod, you could change your center column to kill two birds with one stone. You can level the red ball with built in leveler plus you can turn the top. Plus with the manfrotto like 055 pro you can turn the whole center column as well.

Comment

Nick
"We listen." you say. Well you did not. I pointed out the importance of the 300N "free gear" for several reasons already during your first presentation of your rotator but you did not listen.
I really miss it but fortunately I have old tripods with round centre column which I can use to do at least the important choice of start point.

The correct start point is not just important for the first image but also for the zenith when you shoot fullframe -zenith at +60 degrees. If you want your template to perform optimally it should be placed the same place as in the template.
It is much easier if you have what elliot call a clutch.

Hans

Well, I do listen. It does not mean I must do what my customers ask me to do, or do it immediately upon request. For many people this free rotation adjustment is not a must. Many tripods/ levelers allow you to rotate the top part freely too. It is best included in other accessories. FYI, the EZ-Leveler II has the adjustment for positioning the nadir shot. I guess I need to shoot a video to explain how to use it. I also plan to make a quick mount adapter which will allow you to rotate stuff on top freely. Sorry, I have been full occupied by recent production issues and new stuff I think more important. You need a pole which allows you to use a click stop rotator and a rigid tripod safely, right? I listen and am working on them right now.

Comment

I too do two row Panos using a manfrotto 055pro B tripod.
The whole column rotates with its clamp, so setting the start position is very easy.
Although I have one, I do not use my EZ leveler either.
First I level using the legs then rotate the column for my start position. ( then re check the level, as a Manfrotto column lock is not precise) it only takes seconds, all very easy.

Comment

Hi Terry, not sure if I understand you. The column on my Manfrotto 055CLB (about 15 years old) doesn't rotate. It has a triangular cross-section to stop it rotating. I think I'm going to try the Manfrotto 555B leveling column suggested by Heinz. I'll keep the NN5 on that, and my regular 3-way head on the standard column. Thanks for the alternative suggestions, Nick. I'm shooting multi row mosaics of between 10 and 30 shots. Although I don't need a centre frame, and can just cover the scene widely and then pick my centre in PTGui, I prefer (so far!) to previsualize the final stitch and work around a central point.