1250 is the maximum EGT one should see and that only for a few seconds to keep from melting or deforming the aluminum compressor wheel. The Turbine wheel living in the exhaust stream was a niconel of some variation in our turbochargers we made in the 50s and 60s.

EGT on mine will hit 1200 on a hard pull. Normal cruising at 65mph is about 800 degrees and 7 lbs boost. On acceleration the boost will hit about 30 psi and the EGT will hit about 1100 degrees. Fuel pressure at cruise runs about 25 psi.

The star wheel in the fuel pump adjusts the fuel delivery and can be set to keep EGT down at the expense of power.

Thanks for the insight, Dan.
I did install the EGT probe down stream for the turban. That was pre the instructions w/the gauge.
I have a turban blanket (for noise) and I think I saw an exhaust manifold blanket was available. Depending on the noise level, will also look at a blanket for the valve cover, IP and oil pan.
I usually set the cruise and go. My body does not like to push on the accelerator pedal from fill up to fill up.
Does your unit have the Holley electric pump in front of the tank like the gassers? Don't thing diesel would have the vapor locking problem that gas systems have. I'm concerned that the lift pump wouldn't be able to pull all the way from the tank.
Maybe I'll remember to get another oil (fuel) pressure gauge to replace that GlowShift. The reason I have for the to fuel pressure gauges is to make sure I have pressure to the lift pump and pressure to the injector pump.
Was going to work on it today, but got to go to the other side of Oklahoma City today and get some brace work done. Every time I go to the city, I'm gone all day.

EGT on mine will hit 1200 on a hard pull. Normal cruising at 65mph is about 800 degrees and 7 lbs boost. On acceleration the boost will hit about 30 psi and the EGT will hit about 1100 degrees. Fuel pressure at cruise runs about 25 psi.

The star wheel in the fuel pump adjusts the fuel delivery and can be set to keep EGT down at the expense of power.

My governing speed is about 2800 rpms.

Thanks.
Was reading EGT X1000, it's really X100. So at 2400rpm, no load, was 400 degrees and 7psi boost. Hopping under load boost will increase w/more fuel and higher EGT.

Everyone I've seen is before the turbo. The turbo extracts energy from the exhaust gas therefore heat. 400 degrees would probably be about right on that side. Probably about twice that on the upstream gasses.

Thanks for the insight, Dan.
I did install the EGT probe down stream for the turban. That was pre the instructions w/the gauge.
I have a turban blanket (for noise) and I think I saw an exhaust manifold blanket was available. Depending on the noise level, will also look at a blanket for the valve cover, IP and oil pan.
I usually set the cruise and go. My body does not like to push on the accelerator pedal from fill up to fill up.
Does your unit have the Holley electric pump in front of the tank like the gassers? Don't thing diesel would have the vapor locking problem that gas systems have. I'm concerned that the lift pump wouldn't be able to pull all the way from the tank.
Maybe I'll remember to get another oil (fuel) pressure gauge to replace that GlowShift. The reason I have for the to fuel pressure gauges is to make sure I have pressure to the lift pump and pressure to the injector pump.
Was going to work on it today, but got to go to the other side of Oklahoma City today and get some brace work done. Every time I go to the city, I'm gone all day.

In order to read the true exhaust temp the thermocouple needs to be in the manifold before the turbo. There is a line of thought that the thermocouple should be after the turbo because if before the turbo and the brass tip in the exhaust stream should fail and break off it could damage
the turbo. It is possible but as stated the turbo does remove energy and heat so the temp after the turbo is not as useful as the temp entering the turbo.

A blanket on the turbo is more for heat control then noise. If you are concerned about noise insulate your engine compartment and dog house cover rather then the engine itself.

My coach does not have an electric fuel pump near the tank. I don't know if the 454 requires a higher fuel volume or pressure then the diesel or possibly the rubber diaphragm pump on the 454 cannot lift as well as the pump on the Isuzu. Another item is the Turbine Series Racor primary filters on our diesels are recommended to be installed in a vacuum rather then a pressure. A call to Cummins technical support might provide the best information. I wonder if the long school busses with the engine at one end and the tank at the other require an extra pump? My old Greyhound bus with tank up front and rear engine only had the engine mounted pump.

I fully agree with the use of cruise control however when you hit a grade and the coach slows down and starts to downshift that is when you need to keep an eye on EGT and boost. You are mounting your Cummins to a GM trans and being a non factory installation you do not have the benefit of many hours of factory engineering. Our Isuzu's coupled to the GM trans puts us in the same situation. Good luck.

Most big trucks have manual transmissions. You have to e aware and operate at an rpm an power (skinny pedal) range to keep the EGT in an acceptable range. You can burn up an engine in a second by lugging it. RPM are your friend. Speed becomes secondary to running in the sweet spot.

These 12 valve Cummins motorhomes with Allison offer no protection against over temping other than detuning them to an anemic 180 hp. They are capable of much more but something has to monitor the EGT. Since there isn't a computer controlling the engine, the driver has to be ware. The fuel controller can be deidiot proofed by cranking the star wheel and fuel schedule with the fuel plate to limit power and EGT. If you want to play with more power, you have to pay attention to EGT, rpms, boost, engine temp... Especially if you want climb all the passes in the Rockies.

If you want to play with more power, you have to pay attention to EGT, rpms, boost, engine temp... Especially if you want climb all the passes in the Rockies.

I'm going into surgery to get more eyes. One for the EGT and boost gauge at the end of the dash; one for coolant and oil pressure in the upper centre; one for rpm and speed; one in the back of me head to see that eighteen wheeler storming along at 80+ coming fast towards the merge; one on the GPS trying to tell me I'm crossing someones corn field; one on the wife trying to read a map upside down; did I forget anything......oh yeah I guess a couple on the road ahead would be good.

A spider; I need to be a spider.
Cheers
Tony

__________________
Per Mare, Per Terram and may all your campaigns be successful.

“It’s a recession when your neighbor loses his job; it’s a depression when you lose your own.” "Harry S Truman"

Most big trucks have manual transmissions. You have to e aware and operate at an rpm an power (skinny pedal) range to keep the EGT in an acceptable range. You can burn up an engine in a second by lugging it. RPM are your friend. Speed becomes secondary to running in the sweet spot.

These 12 valve Cummins motorhomes with Allison offer no protection against over temping other than detuning them to an anemic 180 hp. They are capable of much more but something has to monitor the EGT. Since there isn't a computer controlling the engine, the driver has to be ware. The fuel controller can be deidiot proofed by cranking the star wheel and fuel schedule with the fuel plate to limit power and EGT. If you want to play with more power, you have to pay attention to EGT, rpms, boost, engine temp... Especially if you want climb all the passes in the Rockies.

. My 07 dodge with 6 speed auto and 6.7 Cummings normally is at 1600 rpm, when going up a long grade ,if you hold your foot still it will pull down to 1000 rpm..now has 100,000 miles.. Same as my big truck with a 500 hp cat , pull down to 1200 rpm for short while near the crest of hill, has 1.4 million miles, head never been off..just saying

. My 07 dodge with 6 speed auto and 6.7 Cummings normally is at 1600 rpm, when going up a long grade ,if you hold your foot still it will pull down to 1000 rpm..now has 100,000 miles.. Same as my big truck with a 500 hp cat , pull down to 1200 rpm for short while near the crest of hill, has 1.4 million miles, head never been off..just saying

My 08 dodge with a 6 speed auto 6.7 Cummins does the same but it has an ECM (same as yours) controlling the engine. Just saying...

My 360 runs at over 16000 lbs. About like my Ram pulling a heavy load.

Many of these motorhomes of this generation have burnt up their engines from poor technique. That's my opinion and I won't offer any more bad advise.

I for one would be interested in more of your "bad advice" Kota in regards to technique in driving these old diesels. Im new to diesels, as most of you already know, and have logged between 5k and 6k on my Isuzu. I realize you fellas are speaking of the Cummins but surely there are techniques in driving these diesels that are common. Ive been through some areas where we have encountered some pretty steep and long grades. I pay close attention to my EGT and my RPMs when climbing, also the sound of the motor is a pretty good indicator of whats going on. Its my understanding that there is a direct correlation between the EGT and the RPMs and thats obvious when watching my gauges. EGT climbs as the RPMs drop and the engine starts to lug. Giving it more fuel (or even steady pressure on the pedal) is not the answer to maintaining momentum in my 310, I downshift on my Allison once I reach the RPM range where I think its safe to do so on the tranny. Im guessing in or about the 2000RPM range. Maybe a bit lower. Once I see the EGT approach 1200 degrees on a climb, and I see the RPMs dropping, Ill take my foot off the pedal and let the RPMs decrease until I thnk its safe to downshift.

Am I on the right track here for the health of the Isuzu and fuel consumption?