December 28, 2007 1:19 pm

Several months back, after I’d written about her gravy and chicken-fried steak in a breakfast round-up, the owner of The Buttered Biscuit asked me how her restaurant could get reviewed.

I said, half joking, two eyes fully on my mileage expenses, that she should move to Tacoma.

The Buttered Biscuit has met me half way, having recently opened in downtown Sumner, in the location formerly occupied by The Bread Box.

The Buttered Biscuit’s former location on Main Street in Buckley was quaint and old-timey. Its new digs are bright and colorful, modern.

The Buttered Biscuit bills its food as “authentic gramma food.” Oh, that we should all have living grandmothers who make chicken-fried steak that’s crusty and tender and flavorful, smothered in gravy that’s not your standard S.O.S. — hamburger gravy that’s almost as creamy and tangy as stroganoff, thanks to a dose of heavy whipping cream, onions and garlic.

Both were served as part of the $10.95 “Chicken Little” breakfast — a 6-ounce cut of chicken-fried steak, smothered in gravy, with eggs any style, home fries (beautifully browned, with red onions and green peppers) and meaty, succulent corned beef hash. A side of corn bread, dusted with powdered sugar and plopped with butter, was like dessert — intensely corny and cakey, fluffy and crumbly and sweet.