sorry guys if i'm a technological goob - i was getting a bit confused between 4 gb and 8 gb, as well as the diferences between cameras #11, #18 etc.

All up you're looking at about $90 plus shipping. Not bad.

The 8GB means it comes with an 8GB memory card. This will probably fill in about 90 - 100 minutes of recording. You'll probably want to buy a larger card (maximum size 32Gb for this camera) later on.

The lens has me a bit worried as this really is more of a "spy" camera. You use it to film people when you don't want them to know. This is why it looks like a car key. Say leave it on your desk to see if someone's touching you stuff when you're away from your desk. What this means is the focal depth may not be very good.

Let me know how it turns out if you decide to go ahead with it. I deal with security cameras as a part of my job. I've had to install spy cameras near safes before. This one's an interesting one.

darkelf921 wrote:The lens has me a bit worried as this really is more of a "spy" camera. You use it to film people when you don't want them to know. This is why it looks like a car key. Say leave it on your desk to see if someone's touching you stuff when you're away from your desk. What this means is the focal depth may not be very good.

Most if not all my front vision has been filmed with a 808HD #11 for the last 12 months or so. Worked fine for me recording incidents.

The Electra Sports Camera ($78) from Harvey Norman did not make it past the 5th underwater section.

Took it snorkelling with the kids and the on/off button stopped working. I got back to the boat and took the cover off. The circuit board is mounted vertically in the camera and the push button is at the top, held down by the solder tracks. There is no structural support for the button and hence a few activations and it just delaminated from the board.

Will take it back to HN tomorrow for either a refund or repair. Think I'll do my own structural support work on the next one....

Has anyone else had problems with the GoPro freezing regularly on them? I seem to have constant issues - sometimes when the camera is connected to the computer downloading/converting clips with Cineform and this morning it froze when I was trying to turn it on - maybe I pressed the 'start recording' button too quickly after turning it on but that shouldn't be an excuse for then having to remove it completely from the housing and pulling the battery out to get it to respond again (the on/off button ceases to work etc.).

I don't know how many times I've had to pull the battery out to unfreeze it but it's starting to be more than what I can count on two hands and I've only had the thing for about two weeks.

I updated it when I got it to the most recent software version but it is slightly annoying not knowing if it is going to freeze halfway through a download or before a commute/activity I want to record.

Its happened to me a few times before but it seems to have sorted itself out again. It Would take a good time to get the video recording symbol to dissapear soI could start recording. One time after turning it on it had the update/reset icon on the screen and has been good ever since.

Yeah my Hero3 Black with the Dec 12 firmware still does some weird stuff (occasionally giving scratchy audio in some clips, drops to recording menu when in the middle of setup menu, last video needs repair if the battery runs out and it doesn't close properly, red light on black stays on needs battery pull, etc). But overall I'm happy with it and just bought a Hero3 White for rear angle for commuting. The frequency of the issues are not enough to outweigh the awesome video quality compared to my old Otek camera.

Hopefully new firmware will solve the issues soon.=

Edit: I should note that I use an SD reader when viewing and downloading the output to the computer. Easier than connecting the camera. I charge the batteries in an external charger anyway.

Thanks, Lukeyboy and Boognoss. Yes, it is a Hero 3 Black. I like the video quality, I've just got to adjust the handlebar mount and add some rubber somewhere useful to try and stop the shaking as if I watch it in fullscreen I feel slightly nauseous.

I'm thinking about getting an 808 for the rear angle and possibly another 808 for an unobtrusive helmet cam - the pricing difference is the clincher and surely one good camera is enough? XP

Summernight wrote:Thanks, Lukeyboy and Boognoss. Yes, it is a Hero 3 Black. I like the video quality, I've just got to adjust the handlebar mount and add some rubber somewhere useful to try and stop the shaking as if I watch it in fullscreen I feel slightly nauseous.

I'm thinking about getting an 808 for the rear angle and possibly another 808 for an unobtrusive helmet cam - the pricing difference is the clincher and surely one good camera is enough? XP

What type of handlebar mount are you using?

If its the gopro plastic one make sure you attach a lanyard or something to your camera as they have a tendency to break. Also the K-Edge mount helps heaps with the wavey aspects you are seeing, also check your settings.

If its the gopro plastic one make sure you attach a lanyard or something to your camera as they have a tendency to break. Also the K-Edge mount helps heaps with the wavey aspects you are seeing, also check your settings.

Cheers

Sent from my GT-P5110 using Tapatalk 2

+1. I've had a plastic mount snap after a month (only had the GoPro for a month give or take).

Thanks for the tips and warnings - I'd already read the horror stories on here prior to getting my GoPro so have a lovely purple Melbourne freebie lanyard attached to the screw that holds the waterproof housing onto the mount (the last screw closest to the GoPro) and this lanyard is wrapped tightly around my handlebar and secured on my barely used bell. (FYI for any safety concerned people the bell can still be used not that anyone can hear Mr City-of-Melbourne-Freebie-Bell)

And yes, I am using the GoPro mount until such time as it breaks. It has only been a week or so since I started using it so we'll see if I break your record, Boogness. The run down the cycle lane in Albert St, East Melbourne to Hoddle Street is particularly bumpy for a road bike going around 40kph so it might not be long. I have noticed that I need to keep checking and tightening the screws on the handlebar part of the mount and on the middle adapter section as they seem to get loose over a period of days.

I'm not that concerned with the shaking on the commute pics as they still show what I need if evidence is required and the shaking isn't obvious for small Youtube sized clips, however the shaking will be more of a concern when I use the camera for other extreme activity like skiing when I want to show off in fullscreen all the lovely powder.

I've followed the guides here and have the settings on 720 with 50fps.

Summernight wrote:I'm not that concerned with the shaking on the commute pics as they still show what I need if evidence is required and the shaking isn't obvious for small Youtube sized clips, however the shaking will be more of a concern when I use the camera for other extreme activity like skiing when I want to show off in fullscreen all the lovely powder.

You should be right when you're on the snow assuming you're not still on your bike with bar mount . I've been using the helmet mount this week and it's a much smoother ride for the camera than the handle bars anyway (roadie with 23mm tyres).

I haven't tried the chest mount yet when on the bike but will at some stage.

Summernight wrote:Has anyone else had problems with the GoPro freezing regularly on them? I seem to have constant issues - sometimes when the camera is connected to the computer downloading/converting clips with Cineform and this morning it froze when I was trying to turn it on - maybe I pressed the 'start recording' button too quickly after turning it on but that shouldn't be an excuse for then having to remove it completely from the housing and pulling the battery out to get it to respond again (the on/off button ceases to work etc.).

I don't know how many times I've had to pull the battery out to unfreeze it but it's starting to be more than what I can count on two hands and I've only had the thing for about two weeks.

I updated it when I got it to the most recent software version but it is slightly annoying not knowing if it is going to freeze halfway through a download or before a commute/activity I want to record.

When I first got my GoPro3, I experienced these problems. I upgraded the firmware. BTW, do it manually as the "automated" approach doesn't always work. Now the only freezes I experience is when it is charging. I contacted GoPro support and they asked me to do a number of things. None of them worked so they have asked me to send the camera back as it is faulty. I'd suggest you email them at [email protected]

Summernight wrote:I'm not that concerned with the shaking on the commute pics as they still show what I need if evidence is required and the shaking isn't obvious for small Youtube sized clips, however the shaking will be more of a concern when I use the camera for other extreme activity like skiing when I want to show off in fullscreen all the lovely powder.

I've taken a lot of skiing footage with the GoPro and found that vibration is less of an issue than on the bike. Your whole body is suspension for the camera.

On hardpack the footage is very stable upto around 100kph, but it does start to get a bit bumpy above that.

On powder, the speeds are lower and there is far less terrain feedback into the body, and the footage is therefore smooth as butter.

Some tips:

For general skiing, chest mount works best, unless you are racing and going into tuck positions frequently.

When using a helmet mount, use the Front Mount option rather than Top mount. Make sure the helmet is tight on your head.

Use a full frame 4:3 resolution to see more of the terrain in front of you and to get your ski tips in the frame.

Boogness wrote:You should be right when you're on the snow assuming you're not still on your bike with bar mount . I've been using the helmet mount this week and it's a much smoother ride for the camera than the handle bars anyway (roadie with 23mm tyres).

I haven't tried the chest mount yet when on the bike but will at some stage.

I've seen someone ride one of those ski bikes (basically a bike with fat skiis instead of wheels for those playing at home) - too uncontrollable and scary and they really just couldn't go that fast without being completely out of control. Two nice fat skiis attached to my feet is the way to go! (And none of this Cross Country light skiis - tried that once and hated it.)

I have the chest mount - I decided to use that on the bicycle once the handlebar mount snaps. No helmet mounting for me though - doesn't go with the fashion and the GoPro is just way too bulky for that purpose unless you don't mind it sticking out like that- hence why I'm thinking a small camera like the Jumbo 808 on the helmet as it isn't as noticeable.

herzog wrote:I've taken a lot of skiing footage with the GoPro and found that vibration is less of an issue than on the bike. Your whole body is suspension for the camera.

On hardpack the footage is very stable upto around 100kph, but it does start to get a bit bumpy above that.

On powder, the speeds are lower and there is far less terrain feedback into the body, and the footage is therefore smooth as butter.

Some tips:

For general skiing, chest mount works best, unless you are racing and going into tuck positions frequently.

When using a helmet mount, use the Front Mount option rather than Top mount. Make sure the helmet is tight on your head.

Use a full frame 4:3 resolution to see more of the terrain in front of you and to get your ski tips in the frame.

Thank you. I love the clean powder (usually through trees) the best but do sometimes get the urge to tuck a whole steep groomed piste run (obviously clear of poor meandering souls) and get the blood flowing and the wind blowing. I saw some footage from someone with the chest mount on piste and it looked really shuddery even at less than 100kph. And it also made me slightly nauseous too with the rocking. But that could have been the icky piste slope he was on and his skiing technique.

Although I don't know when I'll actually be using it for this purpose as the partner has never been skiing and doesn't particularly like the cold so I don't know how I'll be able to convince him to head overseas for the great cloudy stuff.

darkelf921 wrote: When I first got my GoPro3, I experienced these problems. I upgraded the firmware. BTW, do it manually as the "automated" approach doesn't always work. Now the only freezes I experience is when it is charging. I contacted GoPro support and they asked me to do a number of things. None of them worked so they have asked me to send the camera back as it is faulty. I'd suggest you email them at [email protected]

It is unfortunately a common problem with the new cameras.

I did it manually at the time I pulled it out of the packet as the automatic upgrade wouldn't work no matter how many times I tried. And that was the same time I learnt about the battery pulling trick. I will contact them and see what they say.

You can attach the fishing line to the back plate, where the hinge is, make a loop in one end and loop it through the middle of the bar. Attach the S biner to the other end and you now have a very strong thin light weight easy to use Lanyard.

sorry guys if i'm a technological goob - i was getting a bit confused between 4 gb and 8 gb, as well as the diferences between cameras #11, #18 etc.

I have all three that you have listed there. The mount works very well and there are some very easy DIY mounts for that camera in the link in my sig. The camera is all I use on the bikes now, it is perfect for riding, in the event you have a prang and damage it, the loss is minimal. The GoPro is religated to the car.

You can attach the fishing line to the back plate, where the hinge is, make a loop in one end and loop it through the middle of the bar. Attach the S biner to the other end and you now have a very strong thin light weight easy to use Lanyard.

Graeme

Thanks

I don't have any spare fishing line but as I work in IT I had plenty of USB lanyards lying around. The ones that wrap around your wrist and also thread through the corner hole of a USB stick. I've used them and they seem to be working pretty well.

Looks very similar to the Swann one i reviewed last year but didn't go to press with. If it is the same internals, it will be OK but not spectacular and of limited usefulness for capturing registration plates.