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Christian Nieth and Elisabeth Hartmann, who have travelled thousands of kilometres from Germany in their Volkswagen camper, at the mausoleum of the Quaid-i-Azam in Karachi on Friday.—Fahim Siddiqi / White Star

Borders may be well-defined, but once in a while we hear of epic journeys that help blur them just a little. The drive to Pakistan by German nationals Christian Nieth and Elisabeth Hartmann, over dusty, unpaved roads and through corrupt bureaucratic frameworks, is one tale worthy of mention in this regard.

They sold their apartment, leaving behind high-powered jobs and concerned family and friends to experience the world, the gritty and honest version of it. Taking the road, they decided, was the best way forward.

So they embarked on a road trip to countries including Russia and China. However, the weather had other plans and back to the drawing board they went. Iran seemed like a good option. Plans were made to ferry their prized possession — the Volkswagen T3 Camper 1981 Westfalia — all the way to India for the remaining part of the journey. Pakistan was to be bypassed completely. Instead, they decided to traverse neighbouring countries that enjoy a more positive image internationally.

— Photo by Fahim Siddiqui/White Star

Two chance meetings changed their plans, though, and brought them here.

A hitchhiker they met in Turkey, a usual occurrence on the road, was among the few to have waxed lyrical about Pakistan. “He called it one of the most beautiful countries he had ever travelled through,” says Chris. “This greatly piqued our interest and we decided to add Pakistan to the list.”

Their decision was further cemented after a meeting with the Motor Club of Pakistan whose members had embarked on an international road trip across three states — from Pakistan, through Iran to Turkey and back.

“We were in Zahedan, Iran, when we first met the team. We had applied for a visa for Pakistan but getting it from a foreign country was becoming impossible as we needed to apply from our country of origin. But then Razi Nayyer, president of the Motor Club of Pakistan, took responsibility for completing our paperwork,” Chris explains.

— Photo by Fahim Siddiqui/White Star

Not that the job became any easier. The lack of efficiency in bureaucratic handling, and a discriminatory attitude towards foreigners, slowed down the process. It was only after the highest echelons of the military and the federal government were approached by Mr Nayyer that success seemed possible.

Elisabeth recalls how “from the first day of us trying to get a visa on our own, to the day we physically had it in our hands, took around two and a half months.”

When crossing the border into Pakistan from Iran, there seemed to be a paradigm shift in almost every facet, they say. “Everything from black and grey turned to pink and green,” muses Elisabeth. “Pakistan was more colourful. And not just that, the hospitality was overwhelming.”

But this epic journey was not just shared between the two. Who can forget the Volkswagen camper — their one steady companion, their home as well as their getaway car, the one constant in their lives as they crossed borders, walked among strangers, made friends and explored strange lands.

Humble in its visage on the outside, it is a treasure trove from within. It has running water, a small refrigerator, an electric point, a stove, and enough room to house four; the five-square-metre camper is the nucleus of Chris and Elisabeth’s lives.

Affectionately named ‘Bulli’, “ ... the camper is like a hippy car,” says Chris, “like something out of Scooby-Doo.” So far, they have travelled about 15,000km in it, with thousands more to go.

Bahawalpur is their next destination, after which they will head to Islamabad to renew their visas. After spending a few weeks in the mountains, Chris and Elisabeth will then head back to Lahore and cross into India.

Speaking about the mechanics of living on the road, interesting anecdotes come up. The two offered their camper to couch surfers and so had a lot of travellers with them on the road. “It’s always interesting to meet new characters, hear new stories and make new friends,” observes Chris. Elisabeth adds that “one day when in Iran we finally decided to get away, we drove 20 miles into the desert, shut down the car and just spent time by ourselves.”

“Travelling together shows you every side of the person you are with,” muses Elisabeth. “This trip has taught me that putting yourself first is something very European; there is a need to throw that overboard, and put others first as it helps you work better as a community.”

“Owning less is fun,” pipes in Chris. “Having all our belongings in this car made me realise you don’t need much money or space. The most valuable things are time and freedom.”

Within the confines of the camper, among the many items that make up their home is a small postcard of a dejected figure under a thunderous cloud that does not cease its pouring. Beneath it in German is written Willkommen im Leben, which in translation roughly means ‘Welcome to life’. Both Chris and Elisabeth consider this a constant reminder that on the road, with the good moments come bad ones, but what matters is the journey.

Comments (61) Closed

just being a foreigner does not give them a right to get visa, every tom and dickens try to be a celebrity here.

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Seriously

Mar 08, 2016 08:08am

Cool. Good luck and godspeed on your trip.

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Amer RAO

Mar 08, 2016 08:10am

Welcome to Pakistan.

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ali

Mar 08, 2016 08:20am

We welcome guests from all around the world to come and experience Pakistan tourist spots historical places we treat every guests like our own family.Thank you for visiting Pakistan.

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sattar rind

Mar 08, 2016 08:21am

nice

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ali

Mar 08, 2016 08:27am

all the best for the rest of your trip.

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Just here

Mar 08, 2016 08:46am

Pictures please

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rejoice

Mar 08, 2016 08:47am

Very well narrated. Epic journey is not what is shared between the two but by the people you interact on the road. Yes, it is fun exploring Pakistan.

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GA

Mar 08, 2016 08:52am

Always love stories like these. More to Pakistan than meets the....news.

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Wajih

Mar 08, 2016 09:19am

First foreign tourists of the season. Keep it up Dawn
Summer is coming so are the tourists!

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Omran

Mar 08, 2016 09:24am

Welcome to Karachi...

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Zain

Mar 08, 2016 09:29am

Welcome to Pakistan, its the people to people contact that brought many cultures together for learning, sharing, enrichment, evolving and appreciating the goodness of all the humanity. Hopefully your stay in Pakistan would be well worth the effort and a warm memory of hospitable Nation. I have met many German Tourist going to K-2 Mountain during my student years few years ago. German people are very impressive, they are brave and very determined to do a task they never put it off and never settle for any compromises. Long live German Pakistan friendship.

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Muslim

Mar 08, 2016 09:31am

Welcome to Pakistan. Hope you have great time. If possible do visit my hometown Faisalabad.

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Nadeem

Mar 08, 2016 10:01am

Love you guys,,pakistan is one of the most beautiful country in the world,,
I myself have travelled by road twice from UK to Pak and back to the UK.

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Baloch

Mar 08, 2016 10:28am

It gives immense pleasure to read about such adventurous trips. Kudos to the couple which took pain enough to explore Pakistan, one of the beautiful places on the face of the earth.

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Shah

Mar 08, 2016 10:30am

Its a pity that neither our Tourism department nor our embassies or consulates nor the media does anything to promote tourism in our country.I have traveled around half the civilized world and yet find the natural beauty of Pakistan beyond anything i have seen abroad.We have no brochures no pamphlets no advertising any where to tell the world what we have to offer.

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Sonny Afridi

Mar 08, 2016 10:35am

Beautiful story. I hope to do such an adventure myself. By the way nice VW.

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Danka

Mar 08, 2016 10:44am

Sehr gut, interessante Geschichte , viel Glück!

Very Good, interesting story, Good Luck!

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Waqar Yaqub

Mar 08, 2016 10:46am

Wonderful read... if only we realise how wonderful this place is...I we would appreciate and look after it more.

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Muhammad Arshad

Mar 08, 2016 11:02am

Great......

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Nomi

Mar 08, 2016 11:22am

Welcome to Pakistan, indeed a vibrant, more colorful and diverse cultural , full of hospitality country, Al though proper procedures should be followed for visa.. well on time..

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Vruddhula Kalyanaramarao

Mar 08, 2016 11:35am

Yes. Pakistan's problem is Urdu ; and to some extent India's problem is Hindi.

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salam

Mar 08, 2016 11:51am

Good story to promote tourism... Industry of the modern age.

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Umar Farooq

Mar 08, 2016 12:01pm

Best Wishes and welcome to Pakistan ........

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Karthik

Mar 08, 2016 12:02pm

@Vruddhula Kalyanaramarao explain Pease

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hasan

Mar 08, 2016 12:10pm

Welcome to Karachi, :)

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Nadeem

Mar 08, 2016 12:43pm

@Sonny Afridi ,don't just think about it do it,,,you will find whole new world out there.

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Zak

Mar 08, 2016 01:05pm

The western media has denied many tourists of a visit to the most unique and beautiful country in the world-Pakistan. They will love it the most, just like the ' friends of New York ' website stated, the most beautiful country and people in the world'. Pakistan is Pakistan and there are non like it.

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MHK

Mar 08, 2016 01:06pm

aahhhhhhh!!! finally some positive news about PAKISTAN!

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Kamal Pasha.

Mar 08, 2016 01:06pm

@Daanish, We should not be strict like others. Let them enjoy the beauty of our beautiful country as long as they are honest tourists.

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Ashi

Mar 08, 2016 01:14pm

Wow! the journey seems amazing :)
YOu people are luky

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fida USA

Mar 08, 2016 01:45pm

Mr. Jinnah gave us beautiful land called Pakistan, pity we never died for it hence we never correctly valued the land and appreciated it. Still it is never too late to love it and preserve it and make it a modern nation to make Jinnah proud of Pakistani nation.

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jehanzeb

Mar 08, 2016 01:56pm

Indeed Pakistan is full of colors.

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Asad

Mar 08, 2016 02:00pm

Godspeed travallers

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M. Ahmed

Mar 08, 2016 02:23pm

Welcome to Pakistan, have a safe journey and enjoy the beautiful country Pakistan.

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iffi

Mar 08, 2016 02:50pm

Welcome to Pakistan the land of pure life ..... excellent narration & i would do the same someday inshaAllah

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Alpha11

Mar 08, 2016 03:21pm

@Daanish yes no big deal, I got my german visa in two month. Like they process our application fast. For even the residence permit, I have to wait 3 months for the Card. If there is discrimination in pakistan, every place is same.

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parveez

Mar 08, 2016 03:22pm

@Daanish
What are is so angry about. Only the foreigner needs a visa.
As it is not many people want to visit. We should be pleased, and we should show the world that our country, and its people are great.
So chill, and make it easy for people to get Pakistan visa.

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Abbas naqvi

Mar 08, 2016 03:50pm

Travelling is education. Meeting people and feeling the touch of other cultures is an enriching process always accompanied with joy and satisfaction. The couple must enjoy because they are in Pakistan, a unique land of beauty and love. It generates a spirit of freedom and a sense of attachment.In northern Pakistan lies the natural and amazing beauty of snow capped mountains, dense forests and ravines, rivers and fountains spread over lush and green valleys.The warmth of Pakistan hospitality is invariably felt by all tourists visiting our lovely land.The German couple will take many sweet memories to reflect upon when they return home.

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MA

Mar 08, 2016 04:34pm

Welcome to Pakistan

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Grafello

Mar 08, 2016 05:24pm

We have so much positive to offer but do not know how to sell it. Poor business skills!

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Dr Riffat Jabeen

Mar 08, 2016 06:14pm

Willkommen in Pakistan ein Schönes Paar. Gute reise und viel spaß. Welcome to Pakistan a beautiful couple. Have nice and safe journey and a lot of fun. No doubt Pakistan is the most hospitable country in the world. People love to give respect to their guests as it's the learned behaviour. They are taught these values intentionally and/or unintentionally from the beginning how to sacrifice for others, particularly guests.

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Abdul Rahim Sheikh

Mar 08, 2016 06:30pm

Great read about their trip, Best wishes

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global citizen

Mar 08, 2016 06:59pm

Willkommen in Pakistan!

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Syed Mohiuddin Zia

Mar 08, 2016 07:25pm

I hope that I could also have an interesting life like them

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Vijay

Mar 08, 2016 07:25pm

Many of my friends are of Pakistani origin. I find them warm and generous people.

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Shakil USA

Mar 08, 2016 07:44pm

Welcome and Pleased to have you. Positive notion.

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Anurag

Mar 08, 2016 08:19pm

I wish one day, I as an Indian would cross the border and wonder in this scenic country on bike.

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Stargazer

Mar 08, 2016 08:26pm

Wilkommen bei Pakistan !
Und Wiedersehen Inshallah

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Sami

Mar 08, 2016 08:28pm

@Daanish --- Are you always this happy?

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Sami

Mar 08, 2016 08:39pm

Willkommen in Pakistan mein bruder und shwester en der menschheit!!!

Welcome to Pakistan my brother and sister in mankind!!!

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Sami

Mar 08, 2016 08:41pm

@Anurag --- it is my most sincere wish to welcome you in my lifetime!!!

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azkhan71

Mar 08, 2016 10:19pm

Pretty awesome..Welcome to Pakistan, greatest country on planet earth!!!! I hope these two guests will take memorable & sweet memories from Pakistan!!!

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Sarai Alamgir

Mar 08, 2016 10:21pm

Pakistan is safer then Brazil and South Africa (friends who returned from both countries and vowed to never go there again), but the media will always show a negative picture, so happy that some people are using their brain when deciding on touring my great country.

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Iqbal Zaman Khan

Mar 09, 2016 12:16am

Welcome to my Homeland, Hope you have a brilliant time.

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Saqib

Mar 09, 2016 12:38am

They're meeting open minded people in Pakistan ready to facilities you guide you giving you good advice no matter you're Pakistani from other city or foreginers in Karachi people mostly enjoy good hospitality love this city especially citizen give them very good respect that's what they literally enjoyed a lot.

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Rafique Sheikh

Mar 09, 2016 02:04am

Next destination Bahawalpur, what? With so many other options they choose Bahawalpur. I guess I should explore my hometown some more so I can see the beauty in it that others can see. But really Bahawalpur is a lovely place.

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AR

Mar 09, 2016 05:47am

I would have liked to read more about their journey through Pakistan tan their camper van.

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Mohd.

Mar 09, 2016 10:33am

Dears, don't forget to visit the Northern Areas of Pakistan. You will have the best time there in areas like, Skardu, Gilgit, Naran Kaghan, Swat and Kashmir. Wish you best of luck.

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Tafseer Haider

Mar 09, 2016 11:25am

Kudos to the couple's adventurous life. I really loved the following lines by Elisabeth:
“Travelling together shows you every side of the person you are with,” muses Elisabeth. “This trip has taught me that putting yourself first is something very European; there is a need to throw that overboard, and put others first as it helps you work better as a community.”