Yeah I was quite surprised how sparse it was too! I would hope that we can get the resistor values from Chris when he opens his, we can also get information on the other lovetone mods that was done on the later ones. The BC549 comment was just a bit of a lovetone joke, all the others we have seen so far (including the flange ? i think) has made use of them in some way! The unidentified components are quite strange. I have seen some very old capacitors which look quite similar but I really don't know at this stage I need to put a bit more thought into it! But from markings they could be germainium diodes. It does look like it is a very similar circuit compared to others. I will start doing some research into other LDR circuits so that we could make an educated guess at least. All your insights from the fleur are all interesting and we could perhaps even mod and enhance the basic doppelganger!I've gotta go.

I landed another phot of the doppelganger today. It illustrates the trace side of the board so I could complete the layout. This is redrawn from the actual lovetone layout. However are there any issues with using this same layout on the clone? The String Ringer board is almost the same as the lovetone.

Basically I am asking should I change a few parts of it round to be on the safe side of things as I don't have previous experience of such things. I am going to make the board today and start working out a bill of materials. However i am still unable to identify values of all of the resistors or capacitors in the circuit so any additional information anyone can shed some light on would be great.

I didn't do any of my "homework" on this thing over the weekend. There shouldn't be a problem with making the layout the same as how it actually appears, however it does appear as a lot of jumpers are used on the pcb, i think as a result of trying to integrate the rotary switches and pots into the pcb, instead of having them flying. you could probably shake this thing down to a 2 inch by 2 inch board without those switches because there are so few parts. I'll try to give the pic another look to see if I can figure out the values, unfortunatly the part numbers listed on the pcb don't match the part numbers on the schem. ho hum.

There is the schem posted on the thread which does not include the component values. I have completed a cloned layout which is based upon the actual doppelganger board. I am currently very busy with other stuff but should be getting more information to complete a full schematic and layout in the up coming months. The schem that we do have has been checked out and seems to be correct/make sense. Your patience will be rewarded in time!

"The Dop is a four stage phaser with stacking caps like a Univibe but opamp based and optically controlled.As the caps are stacked, one couple of stages "modulates" the lower register and the other the high register so Lovetone cleverly use separate depth controls for each couple of stages plus a phase switch.

Yes it's a fet based. But very lush having 6 stages (you could add more if you build your own). It's AC powered and seems to have a more headroom running at 12V than your standard 9V phaser which might also translate it's being so nice. Very sweet sweep. It's my rave phaser. I don't think it gets a lot of props, maybe because people shy away from it due to its size and I think they originally were very price prohibitive. I've read that it was the phaser that started the phase craze (of course the Uni-Vibe could also claim that title but the PS-1 is technically a true phaser). "

for the value we can zoom on this picture to see the value of the resistors:

and with this text we can find the other components value:

There's not much to that thing is there. Those circled diodes appear to be D10 and D11 (germanium?), with D3 and D4 being the two on the lower left, where it says doppelganger v 3 or v4 i think. d3 and d4 i would suspect are 1N4001 or whatever is used as D1 for polarity protection, they are used in order to prevent the signal from grounding, it plays a part in the spectral bypass, in and the lfo signal goes to ground, out and the lfo signal goes to the led's. in other words, it does the same thing the old univibes did, it never really shuts of, it just shut the bulb off, and sounded 'by-passed'. As far as the bc549' s you mentioned and 'what it's based on' what are you looking for? It is two tl077's two 4458's, check the commonsound forum for what type of ldr sensativity is used in the phaser fleur, i am sure that value would work. The pots, i guess 100k. The low frequency span i think works LDR 1 and 2, they I assume would be a higher value cap of .1 (C 11, 12) and LDR 3,4 being the high frequency ldr, using caps of .047 (C 13, C14) or whatever you like for those values, they effect the sweep. C1 @ 100uf C2 @ 10uf, as well as C3 and mayve C5. C4 and 6 i would say 1uf. On the input section, those are standard filtering parts, borrow from any circuit. The Color circuit, with C17, i would assume is similar to the feedback section of the phaseur fleur , i think there is a .001 in there. I would bet the ldr led's have to be green. The resistors in the filter section will be parallel values, ie 45 will be the same as 46, etc, i think. If you can figure out the resistor values, which dosnt look like it would be too hard you could figure out the Vref's,

The BBD seems to be a MN3207 + a MN3102. There is just one (sanded) IC which suspiciously looks like a quad opampFrom the pics I can't say whether the about 16 trannies are labelled.And of course there are a couple of LED/LDR combos Wink Interestingly, there is also a OEP1200 audio transformer....

But i can't do that: i am colorblind, i can't see the color on the resistors to find the value.

I have tried reading the resistor values without much luck. i.e. I can't see them clearly enough to pick out the values for sure. Then there are the cap issue. If you want I should be getting a new version of the layout soon and then I can post that. You can then build the thing and chop and change the components untill you are happy. I am afraid there hasn't been anymore developments I have made on this in the last few months as I have not recieved any further information and have not had the time to do any work on it.

Is this thread dead? There hasn't been much activity on here for a while.

If anyone has completed this project, please let me know. I am about to start it myself, I'm just waiting for the OK that someone successfully cloned one of these from the material provided in the thread.

Has anyone traced all the components to the doppelganger yet or at least are there some clear guts shots out there somewhere so i could have a go at tracing it myself iam really keen after doing the meatball to get a doppelganger happening but i haven't had much luck in scouring these forums to finding any sort of information on a schematic. If anyone has some clear guts shots or a schematic could they let me know i would much appreciate it.

Hello chaps. Digging up a grave here, but I have a v4 DoppelGanger if anyone is interested I would be very cautious to take it apart as its my pride and joySold my ? years back for £350 what a silly boy, never mind.

If someone makes a PCB I would love to make a clone so I dont have to worry about my real one.

caps1- 22nK63 (blue box)2- ? There are 2 caps on the switches / connections. These are 10uF and 220uF electros. there is also a 220uF electro on the board. So these are C2, C3 and C4 but no numbers...3- ? see 24- ? see 25- 4n7K636- 0,01 63 M2 (Wima)7- yellow and silver tube shaped thing, with the code "47HX0012" see also C15 C178- 22nK639- 6n8K6310- 47nK6311- 10uF electro12- 10uF electro13- 10uF electro14- 10uF electro15- yellow and silver tube shaped thing, with the code "47HX0012" see also C7 C1716- 10uF electro17-yellow and silver tube shaped thing, with the code "47HX0012" see also C7 C1518- 10uF electro

The diodes on the left side of the board near U4 say (obscured) "4002" and "1n400" from what I can seeThe only chip that isnt completely sanded is U4 which says (obscured) "072CN" then underneath "30935"

The pots from left to right are 100k 100k 1k 1k 100k 100k They didnt say the taper on them, or I was blind.

There is a diode next to the rightmost pot, partially obscured, it says 1n400 cant see the last value

Thats about all I have for now. If the colours of the resistors dont show up well, I have them noted down.

Hopefully this helps, I would love to see a board made for this. Thanks.

I grapped the pictures and what information you put there hopefully i can have a good go at tracing this sucker out now the only thing i may need to ask what odd things are but keep posted iam tracing away. Hopefully it ends up correct i'll have to dig up the ole trusty resistor colour code