This cavernous dining room is one of central London’s most affordable glamorous dining experiences. Gilded columns and uniformed waiters recall a Parisian brasserie, and the food is committedly French. Yet the set lunch (carottes râpées, coq au vin and coffee) is just $18 per person. As part of the group that includes the Wolseley (a celebrity favorite), it has plenty of culinary kudos.