Review on riverstation

Acres of planar glass and stainless steel alongside the river ensure that this bold avant-garde conversion of a former police station makes a dramatic impression. On the ground floor is casual deli 'bar kitchen' complete with sumptuous leather sofas and an open kitchen. This is just the spot for a quick lunch or evening snack, and the menu advertises everything from marinated figs with cured ham and Feta to beef bourguignon and mash; alternatively, you can simply have fun with the great list of cocktails.

Climb the marble steps through a glass stairwell to reach the informal first-floor dining room, which is a bright, vibrant space with views over the water and dockside. It makes an appropriate backdrop for contemporary cooking, and menus read like an inventory of high-impact flavours. Typical offerings might include seared, sweet-cured salmon with pickled mooli and wasabi peas, honey-glazed smoked pork belly with curly kale, Puy lentils and rhubarb, and roast cod with spring onion champ and smoked cod's roe cream sauce.

Desserts revert to the deep European tradition of chocolate St Emilion or prune and Armagnac tart with crème Chantilly and orange syrup, and there are excellent brunch deals at weekends. The wine list is a tantalising, up-to-the-minute global selection with some astute house recommendations by the glass.

riverstation is also featured in:
Michelin Guide, Good Food Guide, Hardens, AA Guide