Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Buenos Aires

A crescent moon is seen over Buenos Aires at sunrise, September 6, 2010. (Reuters/Marcos Brindicci, File)

BUENOS AIRES - Not quite Latin America,
not quite Europe, Buenos Aires is a delightful blend of old and
new. Heavy on nostalgia yet youthful and dynamic, there is
rarely a dull moment in the city known as the Paris of the
South.

Argentina's grass-fed beef is as good as it's supposed to
be, especially when washed down with the country's famed Malbec
wine. And while dancing the tango might not be for everyone,
it's worth getting a feel for the sounds and steps that give
Buenos Aires its soul.

The city also boasts fashionable nightclubs, a revamped dock
area flush with luxurious skyscrapers, fusion cuisine and an
extensive network of cycle paths for a bit of two-wheeled
sightseeing.

Political passions and the country's turbulent economic past
are never far away in Buenos Aires. Don't be alarmed by frequent
street protests or dozens of illegal money changers offering to
swap dollars and euros at a favorable, black-market rate in the
city's main shopping street, Florida.

Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors
get the most out of a short stay in Argentina's capital.

FRIDAY

8 p.m. - Stroll from the city's landmark obelisk monument
down Corrientes Avenue, Buenos Aires' answer to Broadway.
Portenos, as residents are known, get dressed up for a night at
the theater while literary types browse the many second-hand
bookshops that stay open until the early hours.

Advertisement

9 p.m. Catch a play or a film at one of Corrientes' numerous
cinemas or head to the nearby opera house, the Teatro Colon
(www.teatrocolon.org.ar). Built in 1908, when Argentina was one
of the world's richest nations, it offers a glimpse into the
nation's wealthier past. If you don't fancy a show, guided tours
are held every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

10 p.m. - Early dining is not fashionable in Buenos Aires,
and Portenos often tuck into dessert well after midnight. Join
the pre-theater crowd at Pizzeria Guerrin (Corrientes 1368) for
a slice of pizza or two at the counter, literally rubbing
shoulders with the locals.

11 p.m. - Buenos Aires' rich Italian heritage is evident in
the city's many ice cream parlors. One of the best is Cadore
(Corrientes 1695), where the dulce de leche with chocolate chips
(dulce de leche granizado) is hard to beat.

SATURDAY

11 a.m. - Enjoy brunch in fashionable Palermo, known for its
leafy parks, boutique shops and trendy residents. The vast
neighborhood is divided into Palermo Hollywood, because of its
concentration of production studios, and Palermo Soho, which
attracts a sophisticated, bohemian crowd. Savor
Scandinavian-inspired cuisine at Olsen (Gorriti 5870) or
French-style pastries and croissants at Le Ble (Honduras 5999).
If you're wistful for 1950s-era charm, settle on the high stools
of El Preferido de Palermo (Jorge Luis Borges 2108), a small,
grocery-style cafe.

12:30 p.m. - Browse through racks of stylish clothes or
leather goods in Palermo's plazas. Visit El Ateneo Grand
Splendid (Santa Fe 1860), a majestic bookstore located in a
stunning former theater. Dive into works by Jorge Luis Borges,
Argentina's best-known author, at the cafe located on what used
to be the theater's grand stage.

2 p.m. - On a sunny day, stroll over to the Japanese
Gardens. If it's raining, hail a taxi and head to the MALBA
museum (Figueroa Alcorta 3415), which features works by
contemporary Latin American artists, or to the National Museum
of Fine Arts (Libertador 1473), which houses a collection
including European paintings and sculptures. The MALBA has an
excellent restaurant and a patio area for a lunch-time break.

5:30 p.m. - Wander through the maze of imposing, stone-built
tombs at La Recoleta Cemetery, where the city's rich and famous
are buried. Visit the grave of Eva "Evita" Peron, but be
prepared for the tour groups.

9 p.m. - Take a nap at your hotel and then indulge in a
parrilla, a typical steakhouse where you can sample the
country's world-famous beef. Tuck into tender sirloin and fillet
steak at the wildly popular Gran Parrilla del Plata (Chile 594),
or at the more rustic Desnivel (Defensa 855).

11 p.m. - Put on your dancing shoes and head to Buenos
Aires' tango halls, known as milongas. A boom in tourism has
revived the appeal of the nostalgic dance, which was born in the
city's immigrant neighborhoods. Visit La Viruta (Armenia 1366),
where you can take a quick class or stay on for the milonga if
you're a more confident dancer. For a more atmospheric setting,
try La Catedral (Sarmiento 4006).

SUNDAY

10 a.m. - For breakfast try some buttery pastries and coffee
in the picturesque Boca neighborhood, which was chiefly settled
by working-class Italian immigrants. Simple wooden homes have
cheerful pastel-colored facades, coated with leftover boat
paint, and artists perform on the cobbled streets.

11 a.m. - Stroll through the crowded Caminito street,
pausing to buy souvenirs on your way to the Bombonera soccer
stadium. Swing by the epic blue and yellow venue where Diego
Maradona played his last game.

1:30 p.m. - Hop on a bus, or trek 30 minutes north, to lunch
at a bustling restaurant in the artsy San Telmo neighborhood.
Settle down at the popular bistro Cafe San Juan (Avenida San
Juan 450) or try a typical cold meat and cheese platter (called
a picada) at the old-fashioned Cafe La Poesia (Chile 502).

3 p.m. - Mingle with mime artists, artisans and tourists at
the San Telmo flea market. Wander the stalls laden with vintage
jewelry and retro posters of the city.

5 p.m. - Wrap up your weekend in the political heart of the
city. Walk up to the Plaza de Mayo to pose for pictures in front
of the pink presidential palace, where Evita famously waved to
her supporters. In the dark days of the 1976-83 dictatorship,
the mothers of missing political dissidents gathered here to
draw attention to the plight of their children and continued to
meet weekly after the country's return to democracy. Nearby,
veterans of the 1982 Falklands War have set up camp to demand
better pension benefits.
(Editing by Helen Popper and Xavier Briand)