First Bite: Ramen Kazama Select

Ramen Kazama Select

The other night in the snowstorm I took my sixth grader for a mommy-son dinner date to the new Ramen Kazama Select—the brand new, quick, spic-and-span version of South Minneapolis's favorite cult ramen spot, Ramen Kazama. I guess 'select' in this context means 'trimmed down' because the menu is smaller than what's offered at the flagship—though the kitchen is smaller too, so it seems like a reasonable proportionality. The quality of the second location is applause-worthy. Everything I tried was top notch, and lived up to the implicit promise of excellence that the original earned.

Chicken Karaage

Karamiso Magma ramen

The Karamiso "Magma" ramen, loaded with chilies and miso, is just the thing for blasting a cold right out of your world, and that thick, rich broth is a regional treasure.

Somehow, though, while the south Minneapolis location is also a counter service spot, there's something about the new location that feels really bare bones. There's a pile of empty water glasses and silverware near the front, and a water dispenser towards the back, you grab your own soda out of the cooler near the register. For the first time since the new counter service explosion, I found myself feeling ripped off for the tip. Like a lot of people I reflexively tip 20% when the Square option comes up. For my $12.50 ramen with $1 extra egg and a $3.50 cup of tea, with tip I paid more than $20. Add the boy's chicken and a soda, and our total came in over $40. I was for some reason very aware that I could get dinner and a real cocktail at the Heyday happy hour for less.

Am I being ridiculous? I talked to a food-wise person I know and she said, "I never tip more than $1 or $2 when I know they're not doing anything but running food to the tables." That's definitely going to be in my mind going forward. Counter service restaurants are such a dominant trend right now—from the new Montreal bagel place, to The Lynhall—that it's inevitable that customers are going to start asking themselves: 20% for what, exactly?

I understand all the logic of why restaurants are turning to counter service, but I'm not sure we customers are going to go along. Is it fair to attach my wonderings to Ramen Kazama Select? Probably not. They're doing a great job. But as I set my own table, got our waters, refilled our waters, watched my tea dwindle with no one asking if I wanted more hot water, got my kid the soy sauce, and got my kid a new fork after he dropped his—I felt like the table server. Because I was! Ramen Kazama just happened to be the place where I, like the proverbial frog in hot water, suddenly asked: 'Wait, what's going on here?'

I'm curious to hear your thoughts about counter service tipping, so throw them into the comments. Till then, I'll leave you with my final thoughts on Ramen Kazama Select: It's delicious. And surprisingly thought provoking!

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Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl was born in New York City little aware of her destiny—to eat out a lot in Minnesota. Dara is the other half of our star food and dining team, working side by side with Stephanie March.