Critic's pick: Giacomo Cibo e Vino

Published 11:33 am, Wednesday, May 8, 2013

The rigatoni with pork sausage and cabbage is a standout dish at Giacomo Cibo e Vino.

The rigatoni with pork sausage and cabbage is a standout dish at Giacomo Cibo e Vino.

Photo: Alison Cook

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At Giacomo's: brussel sprouts

At Giacomo's: brussel sprouts

Photo: Alison Cook

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At Giacomo's: chicken

At Giacomo's: chicken

Photo: Alison Cook

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At Giacomo's Cibo e Vino.

At Giacomo's Cibo e Vino.

Photo: Alison Cook

Critic's pick: Giacomo Cibo e Vino

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Giacomo Cibo e Vino

3215 Westheimer

713-522-1934

Chef-owner Lynette Hawkins' modest and surprisingly underrated trattoria just keeps getting better. Her house-made pastas outshine many a grander Italian joint's, from tagliatelle with classic Bolognese ragu to delicate half-moon ravioli stuffed with goat cheese, ricotta and chard. Just try resisting the simple pappardelle tossed with cherry tomatoes, mozzarella and basil; or a special of rigatoni with pork sausage and cabbage. Better yet, small plates of beautifully made, jewel-toned vegetable sides and salads give the menu an edge over its more conventional peers. Good wine values from a thoughtful Italian list, smart little desserts (yogurt panna cotta; chocolate hazelnut budino), and a stylish wall mural by local artist Rachel Hecker add to the appeal.