In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Webbing is absolutely normal in Saxony, the website I listed above has strength tests of various types and knots. You can buy webbing chocks commercially as well:-

Orbworks UFO, the middle sized one. The centre lump is pulled down to expand the whole thing. They work as well (reputedly)!

Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Webbing is absolutely normal in Saxony, the website I listed above has strength tests of various types and knots. You can buy webbing chocks commercially as well:-

Orbworks UFO, the middle sized one. The centre lump is pulled down to expand the whole thing. They work as well (reputedly)!

I typed the name wrongly, the manufacturer is OBRWORKS not Orbworks. http://www.obrworks.cz My brother is up there climbing in a few weeks, we shall get one and pull-test it in some cracks for the entertainment!

Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?

Oh, um, ah......I think the inlaws are visiting that weekend.... (actually, they are, but even if they weren't, as you know, I am too chickenshit to take a whipper of any sort, regardless of protection type....) It would still be cool to see though.

In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

its also called Jesus knot or SOL knot and the best story I have is when a climber on el cap goes off route and realizes that the correct route was to his left while he was 20-30 feet to the right so instead of using a $5 cheap escape stopper nut, he takes a piece of1" webbing and puts a big fat knot at the end and Jammed it in the thin crack and ask his belayer to lower him down so he could swing to the left and continue his climb but about 25 feet down "BANG" a knot flies out of the crack like a bullet and there he goes 75+ feet of FF2 passing blayer and bang his head and shoulder to the wall. His rescue project off the wall is another story so why in other countries you see this knot very often ?

its due to economic reasons where poor climbers can't effort of leaving gear on the rock and very often seen in Asia, old Soviet, Eastern Europe ME etc.

You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born. No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born. No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.

You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born. No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.

You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born. No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.

Adam. Fucking. Ondra.

well, I see no yosemite valley climb on his resume so I'll put my money on Alex for time been.