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Amazing project, you've got a bright future ahead of you there if the riding doesn't work out, hell even as a sideline of income to supplement the team ride. Have you experimented with making road stemand bars yet?

Thanks!About the bar&stem combo - unfortunately I still didn't managed to make a new MTB bar because my free time,...a lot of time I'm at the University (mechanical engineering) and I still train for the end of the season. And when I have some free time I prefer to spend it with my girlfriend, but after the end of the season I'll sure have some more time for some more carbon work.

The end of the season will be this weekend and I'll also see how it will turn out regarding my cycling career... It's only sure that I'll stay a cyclist for the rest of my life only don't know if I'll rather make a career with education (study) or cycle in the Continental team. Nothing is guaranteed. I still can't imagine not to be every day on my bike and it will sure be a hard decision, because also education is an everyday part of my life. Will see, and I'll sure let you know,...probably there is a "better future" to make the University in these days and I could of course still cycle for my soul (but only for 2-3h per day)..I'm really quite confused at this moment, but will see...in any case I'll stay in cycling, if not like a pro rider, then hopefully like a manufacturer

For the past two frames I used press-fit headsets. That made the headtube 50mm width and with most forks there is some "free space" between the headtube and the fork crown. That's one of the details that was disturbing me and now I'll make it for drop-in headsets. That will reduce the diameter of the headtube for 5mm. The frame will have full-carbon groove for the drop-in bearings. The weight, compared to the press-fit headtube, should be really similar altough I'll make the carbon groove for the bearings, because the smaller diemeter of the headtube.

How about a tapered head tube for a 1-1/4 or 1-3/8-inch lower bearing next time around? You could use the new 3T Rigida, for example. I'm confident that your new build will be even more exciting!

_________________“I always find it amazing that a material can actually sell a product when it’s really the engineering that creates and dictates how well that material will behave or perform.” — Chuck Teixeira

It's still possible that I make it for tapered fork, with some BB30 etc.,...at this moment it's still only on paper

But it will sure be an really amazing project for me. I'll start working also with nano technology, just can't wait! That's the ultimate step, nothing to improve there anymore at this moment because I'll use only the best materials that are possible. That will make the frame even better beside the monocoque procedure. I'll sure keep you updated.

But as I mentioned, the new frame project is at this moment only on paper and still a lot of work to do. After I finish with the season I'll have to make the design and start with the work on the moulds. At this moment I'm really quite busy, and today for instance I went on my training at 6.40am, came home at 9.30 and went to my University where I was till 21 o'clock, and came back home just an hour ago

Otherwise I'm finally also able to afford some better equipment and also thanks to some Slovenian scientists from this line (we have companys like Akrapovič, PipiStrel, Elan,..) I'll be able to start working also with nano-technology. Really glad that some people like my work and are even prepared to help me, really respect that!

@mythicalI really love the 3T forks and it would be great if I could get one of those forks in my hands

Today I was working on the head-tube area, and will most probably use the new standards for the bearings (tapered fork, Ø46mm PressFit30 BB shell,..). And I just can't found the exact specifications about the tapered headset.

I already have 2 options.

I can make it with tapered drop-in or press-fit. And I would prefer press-fit (if this would work ok for road frames). Why? If I would use drop-in headset the headset would be a bit lighter (compared to the press-fit) but then the frame would have a bit more weight with the "carbon grooves", compared to a frame with just the right Ø of the headtube - similar like the BB area. Press-fit bearings would be also a bit more "friendly" to the structure beceause they have the "edge" and the frame would hold the cap in place,...If I would make the carbon grooves they would have to be glued/laminated into the frame. For press-fit headset the procedure would be less complicated and the final weight would be just the same (with frame + headset, otherwise the frame itself would be lighter).

Anyway, here is my question - any idea about the Ø of the press-fit (and also drop-in) tapered headset? I would need the inner Ø of both caps and also the outer Ø of the edges. Hope that you know what I mean..

Just wanted to say that I like the black flange on the Ritchey press fit headsets you show there. On your Prototype 3 frame I don't like how the silver headset flange looks on the otherwise all carbon frame as it stands out a bit. That said, it is a very small gripe on an unbelievable project. Thanks for posting I really enjoying keeping up with your work.

This saddle is 105g and could be done much lighter (!). The carbon rails are from an old SLR and were 41g , maybe I'll soon try to make my own carbon rails. And I have also a bit overdo with the reinforcements on the area where the rails are laminated to the saddle (could drop at least 5g). Otherwise the weight is very similar to the serial c64 saddles - I had one in my hands and it was 102g,...so not much difference here, but as I mentioned, it could be done even lighter probably around 85g. With the Tune shape it would be even less (because the saddle shape and it's also a bit smaller,..).

I'll try to get a tapered headset and be 100 % sure about it. I would anyway need it when I'll make the frame, so nothing to lose here...

I'm interested also about the Ø of the "edges" of the 46mm BB press-fit bearings, that I'll make the frame lines smooth and that the caps won't be -/+ 1mm compared to the frame etc.,... Probably the best way will be if I'll buy the headset and BB before I'll design the frame. Not the cheapest method, but it would be 110% sure

Today I just get the nano stuff!! Really amazing, just can't wait to use it!! Here just a quick photo of the resin and hardener for the frame project:Those two tins are holy for me

So what does that stuff do? I'm guessing it's not little tiny robots that make the fibres super intelligent and fix themselves if you crash or scratch the frame!

If I'm short (in chemistry) nanotubes are a few cm long and cca. 50 000x thiner as a hair,...then you can guess why the structure with nano-technology is much stronger than with some "ordinary" epoxy resins. Without any robots, just advanced materials...

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