An Esthetician's Point of View

facials

Are you using vitamin C on your skin? It really can do wonders and make a big difference. I think it’s important to use a Vitamin C serum daily but I have developed a new facial that is all about infusing it into your skin.

One of the most powerful functions of Vitamin C is it’s role in the production of collagen. As you age, collagen breaks down and wrinkles begin to form. Stabilizing your skin’s levels of Vitamin C can help to counteract wrinkle formation by increasing collagen production.

Age spots are essentially sun damage, and Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, shown to reduce the number of sunburned cells as well as reverse age-related damage to the skin. It does not replace sunscreen, but protects Vitamin C protects against and may repair UV damage, like discoloration and fine lines.

Contrary to what some may believe, the steam does not open your pores. Pores are not windows, they do not open and close. What the steam does do is soften the hardened oil in the pore. The trick though, and this is the most important part, is to lock in the moisture the steam has created. If you don’t, once the steam is turned off, the oil dries up and you are back where you started.

I always apply Hyaluronic Acid Serum and a moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated and soft. This is great for the skin but will also make the extractions easier. My clients do not leave red or irritated.

This facial will be customized to fit your skin needs and skin type plus target acne and breakouts. It will include a Blemish Clear Mask that is a deep cleansing anti-inflammatory blemish control treatment.

It contains Microalgae Extracts and other biological plant extracts known to absorb excess sebum and clarify blemished skin. Natural Tea Tree Oil combats bacteria and reduces inflammation as it works with Zinc to regulate sebum metabolism. Willow Bark Extract, rich in natural Salicylic Acids, gently helps to exfoliate skin to reduce the build up of dead skin cells which can lead to clogged pores.

I have been experimenting with this mask and I cannot believe the results! When I remove the mask from each client, their skin is brighter, clearer and much less irritated. Le Mieux has done it again! Their products are amazing and effective.

Bonus! This mask is safe for pregnant women! I know a lot of women battle with their skin during pregnancy and are limited in what can be used on the skin so this is the PERFECT facial and mask to help heal and clear the skin.

The last few months have been rough for our gentle Orange County skin. We aren’t used to winters like this and it has left our skin, dry, parched, irritated, red and chapped. I’ve seen it on a daily basis with my clients. So, what can you do about it?

First, you want to look at what you can do to prevent moisture loss from your skin. Hot showers, harsh cleansers, and products with alcohol and retinoid creams. Of course, alcoholic and caffeinated beverages have a dehydrated effect on the body as well. Medications can be the culprit too but those can’t always be avoided.

Cut back as much as you can on drying ingredients. Switch to cream cleansers, which do not strip the skin of its natural oils. Instead of using your retinoid cream every night, use it every other night or twice a week. You will still get results and you can put a hydrating cream (or Grapeseed Oil!) on top to prevent flaking.

I have been suggesting grapeseed oil to all my clients to use at night as their nightly moisturizer. Cleanse, tone and then apply the oil. It does wonders for the skin and I have already seen a difference in my clients. Not only does it help with dryness but also has antioxidants, helps protect collagen, improves the production of elastin and hyaluronic acid and when used daily and consistently, can help brighten and even skin tone.

Weekly masks are another way to keep your skin hydrated. Honey is a great moisturizer and everyone can use it (unless you’re allergic!). Mix 1 teaspoon honey and 1 teaspoon grapeseed oil and apply to your face for 10 minutes. For those of you with oily or acneic skin, it can help with unclogging pores, drawing out impurities and killing bacteria, which cause acne. Manuka Honey (from New Zealand) is best for acne. Leave on your skin for about 10 minutes.

Interested in getting a facial? Not sure what a facial from me entails? Below is what happens during a regular facial, not a specialty one. I’m breaking it down for you so you can get excited and come in!

1. Let’s talk. I always ask about your skin. What are your concerns and what would you like me to work on. What I see and what you see is not always the same and I want make sure that when you leave, I have addressed YOUR concerns.

2. Cleanse. I use a mild cleanser (steamer is now on) to remove dirt, oil and makeup. This is also when I can access your skin. By look and feel.

3. 2nd Cleanse. I use a stronger cleanser during this step to get the process of lifting dead skin and softening pores started. Sometimes I add a scrub to this step. It depends on what the skin needs.

4. Enzyme. I have a variety to choose from and I make my decision on which one to use based on what you need, want, lifestyle and weather. A stronger enzyme that contains some acids will not necessarily be used during the summer months. They are all effective and help exfoliate the skin. Steamer is turned off after this step.

Blueberry Enzyme

5. Ultrasonic Spatula. I apply a gel or toner-type solution to the skin to help loosen the dead skin and using the spatula that is activated by ultrasonic sound waves (28,000 vibrations per second), it lifts the dry skin cells off the skin. At the same time, water is being pushed into the skin which allows the new cells to be hydrated. All you feel is a gentle vibration.

6. Hydrating Serum and Moisturizer. Each step prior has been about softening the skin and exfoliating. Once the steamer is turned off, the skin dries up and the pores goes back to normal. They aren’t changing size, they are just tightening, which makes extractions more difficult and painful. The serum keeps the skin hydrated and the moisturizer locks it in. This is a little secret that makes a tremendous difference! I don’t force extractions either. If they are ready, I will get them.

7. Mask. Since I apply two masks, this one is usually anti-bacterial and calming. Your skin can sometimes get a little red from extractions. This mask will calm it down.

8. 2nd Mask. Hydration. Everyone needs it. I have many different masks to choose from but they are all hydrating. Some brighten, whiten or even help with blemishes. I pick one that best suits your skin. During this mask you will get a light neck and shoulder massage.

9. It’s the end. Boo. 😦 Serum, Moisturizer and SPF. If it’s an evening facial, I will ask if you would like me to apply Grape Seed Oil to your skin instead of moisturizer since that is what I recommend for nighttime.

Depending on your skin and needs, I may add or take away steps. Most of the time I add. 😉

This facial is about you. We can talk as little or as much as you want. First-timers often take advantage and ask me a lot of questions. Some just want peace and quiet. It is your time.

When you leave my treatment room, you will have a glow. There are no signs of being tortured, even if you have acne! 🙂

Microdermabrasion comes up a lot in my treatment room but I actually don’t do it anymore. I can but I don’t. It’s not my favorite treatment and I have something (Dermafiles) that can replace it that is better. Plus, there is Ultrasonic Exfoliation to add to the mix. I have been using ultrasonic for quite some time and I love it! Below I will compare the two so you know the difference and why you may want one or the other or both!

Microdermabrasion has been around since the 90’s. It removes dead skin cells, evens skin tone, stimulates circulation and give the skin a smooth, youthful appearance. Best suited for those with thicker skin because of the suction/vacuum method that pulls and tugs at the skin. Thin, reddened and sensitive skin cannot handle this treatment. It will make conditions worse or cause more issues like broken capillaries. I feel that microdermabrasion does more harm than good.

Anyone who has received a facial from me knows how much I love this tool. I use it in every facial (unless I am doing some other deeper exfoliation-although still rare) because I have seen the benefits and I know how amazing it is for the skin. I can’t offer this as a “special” facial. I think everyone should have this used on their face in my treatment room.

How Ultrasonic Exfoliation Works:

Liquid is applied to the skin (skin needs to be wet) to loosen surface dead skin and the spatula that is activated by ultrasonic sound waves (28,000 vibrations per second) lifts the dry skin cells off the skin. At the same time, the liquid (I use a beneficial liquid for your skin type) is being infused deep into the skin to allow the new, healthy cells to get hydrated. This means that this method is safer, better and the results will last longer.

Since I always start with an enzyme before I use this tool, you will get even better results because it will be able to exfoliate even deeper. It can also be used to clear clogged pores and get out dirt, old oil and blackheads.

They aren’t as scary as you may think. Many women watched the aftermath of Samantha Jones’ chemical peel from Sex and the City and feared that they too would have to wear a dark-colored veil to go out in public. That was a either a drastic peel gone wrong or done strictly for entertainment. (I’m voting for the latter!)

A chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing procedure in which a chemical solution is applied to skin to peel away the top layers. The skin that grows back after a chemical peel is smoother and younger looking. They can help with fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, texture, acne scars and large pores (reducing the appearance of both).

Chemical peels can be done at different depths- light, medium or deep- depending on your desired results. Each type of chemical peels uses a different chemical solution. Deeper chemical peels produce more dramatic results, but can also involve longer recovery times.

Things To Know…

1. You don’t have to peel with a peel.

2. Visible exfoliation (flaking) is a symptom of the treatment. Everyone is different. Some may flake in certain areas on their face, some may flake all over and some may not flake at all.

3. Cellular change takes place in the epidermis (top layer) and dermis (2nd layer), regardless of the amount of visible flaking.

4. Peels are usually done in a series for best results. One will not give you what you want.

5. Consultation and/or a facial must be done before a peel. I will not do a peel on a new client. It’s important that we are on the same page as far as what you want, what you can expect and what will actually be done. Plus, I need to see and touch your skin. This is also when we will discuss the series and figure out chemical peel is best for you.

6. Home care products are key to producing great results. If you are using products at home that I recommended, then I know exactly how they work together with the peels. This is an important step. Not just for the results but also for the condition of your skin during the series. I’m almost hesitant to even do a series without the client using my products. When you purchase a series and products, it is always a better price. 🙂

Million dollar question, right? Sometimes acne can simply be caused by using the wrong products or not washing your skin at all. If this is the case, improving your skin will be much easier. Unfortunately, if your acne is hormonal then it will be much more difficult. We can usually improve the clarity, frequency and intensity though. Here are some tips…

1. Be consistent. Cleanse your skin every night and every morning.

2. Use products that are right for your skin and that will balance out the oil without dehydrating. Most OTC acne products take everything out of your skin and don’t replenish it. This can make things worse and/or cause you to age quicker.

3. Use Grape Seed Oil. This will hydrate your skin and balance the oil. Read here for al the benefits. My clients use and love this! It really does work. Cleanse, tone and apply oil. If you are using serums, apply those first and then the oil. A little goes a long way.

4. Keep your pillowcase clean. Even though you are washing your face every night, this is still important. If have a more severe case, then you should be changing/washing it at least every week.

5. Use alcohol to clean your phones and sunglasses. Bacteria spreads very easily.

6. Don’t touch or pick at your face.

7. Get regular facials. Having an expert do extractions helps. It’s better than you doing it and healthier for your skin.

8. Dairy can aggravate acne in some people. Give it up for 6-12 weeks to see if there is any significant improvement.

9. Drink lots and lots of water.

10. Make sure you aren’t using any pore clogging makeup. Heavy or thick foundations are not good for the skin. Try not reapply as the day goes on.

11. Wash your makeup brushes. You should washing them with baby shampoo at least twice a month and using a brush cleaner every single day. Of course, this is for people that wear makeup everyday. Adjust if necessary but those are the guidelines. Don’t reuse sponges and don’t use powder puffs.

12. Get a Clarisonic. It’s a great investment! This is a form of exfoliation so use at night only.