Sunda Restaurant Review

: Earth tones and natural materials soften the terribly hip scene at this River North eatery from the Rockit Bar & Grill crew. First off, we’ll make clear this is not authentic Asian---to expect it would mean missing the point, not to mention a chance to enjoy shockingly good grub. The menu is huge---so huge, in fact, you’d think the kitchen would falter. Turns out the far-flung creations, inspired by Southeast Asian, Japanese and Chinese cuisines, are every bit as good as the buzz suggests. Burnt (read: caramelized) watermelon and unagi bacon “nigiri” kicks summer flavors into overdrive. Still, it's two other dishes that brought us to tears: wok-tossed, crunchy soft shell crab scattered with toasted garlic and dried chilies and The Food Buddha’s crispy, pan-fried sushi rice topped with jalapeño-spiked spicy tuna, favored holdouts from the Rodelio Aglibot-designed menu. Among entrées, the adobo-braised pork belly shines. A first-rate saké list reveals a number of elegant, aromatic finds. Although fairly to the point, there are plenty of enthusiast-appropriate vinos and craft cocktails. Come during happy hour when a selection of specialty libations save cash, and budget-conscious appetizers (available in the lounge)---such as roasted duck hash salad with crispy egg---are budget-friendly.