Tempo Fashion.

Loosening Up

Designers Take A Casual Approach For Spring 1995

August 18, 1994|By Bob Foltman, Tribune Staff Writer.

It is the quirk of fashion that last month in New York designers gathered to show-not their upcoming fall lines; those were shown a few months ago-their offerings for spring 1995. There's no making sense of the chronology. Just accept it.

The Men's Dept. couldn't be there to gaze and gasp, but our special correspondent, Kathleen Boyes, kept our seat warm at all the venues and reported back on the upcoming trends.

"It was a real weird season," said Boyes, a veteran of these things. " `Forrest Gump' seemed to be the major inspiration."

"Usually these things are just a sea of boring suits coming down the runways," Boyes said. "This year wasn't about suits, but how suits can be dressed down."

The popularity of "Casual Fridays" at many businesses has caught the eye of retailers and designers. So instead of sending a model down the runway in a standard double-breasted suit and tie, designers such as Joseph Abboud had models clad in navy sweatpants and a tailored jacket; a suit with a banded collar shirt. Anything, it seems, in order to take the edge off the corporate look.

"It could be bad news for the suit-and-tie man," said New Orleans-based retailer David Rubinstein of Rubinstein & Bros., which is celebrating 70 years in the Crescent City this year.

To respond to that change Rubinstein published a booklet on the "Code for Casual Wear" in the office setting. It's a listing of dos and don'ts for the businessman navigating the uncertain sartorial waters. Why is this book needed?

"We heard from people that no one had any complaints about women, but that men were more sloppy."

Anyone who wants a booklet can call Rubinstein's and order one for $2; companies can also order a large quantity. The number is 1-800-725-7823.