Where to stay

There's little accommodation in Opuwo, as most visitors just drive through on their way into Kaokoland, or back towards Etosha. This is a shame. It is surprising that people who come to Kaokoland professing an interest in the Himba don't make this their longest stop. This is the Himba town, their 'capital'. It raises the question of what those travellers are really seeking: is it the Himba – or is it simply photographs to match their image of 'primitive tribespeople', regardless of the reality?

If you do stop here, then ignore the ill-informed advice of guidebooks that mention asking for help from the town's missions. They have more pressing calls from local people, and little time for scrounging travellers. Instead head for the:

Ohakane Guest House (10 rooms) Tel: 065 273031; fax: 067 273025; email: ohakane@iafrica.com.naThis small lodge, named after the local word for 'wild dog', opened in 1995 and is well signposted just after the petrol station. Its rooms all have air conditioning and en-suite facilities, and there's even a swimming pool outside. It serves lunch and dinner, and has a small selection of curios for sale. There is also a private plane if you want to organise fly-in trips.

Kunene Village Restcamp Tel 065 273043; web: www.nacobta.com.naThis fairly new community-run campsite is about 2km west of Opuwo, on the road to Etanga (D3703), and it is well signposted. It has two stone bungalows with twin beds (though no linen), and a number of grassy campsites. There's also an ablution block with flush toilets and hot showers, and a bar for cool drinks.