Seasonal Raptor closure in effect January 15-August 15. NC Wall- All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Shortoff Mountain- All climbing between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed.

Description

Pitch 1: Climb up the slabby, left wall of the obvious, giant dihedral. Belay under the massive roof. 100 ft. Pitch 2: Immediately step across the gap to the right wall of the dihedral. This is airy, and definitely the mental crux of the route. Shorter people may have to stretch. Traverse out onto the exposed face around the corner and then head up to a belay about 50 feet higher. Pitch 3: Head up and slightly left aiming for a path into the vegetation.

Once you are on the big vegetated ledge, walk left looking for the last viable scramble to the summit. There are a couple bolts to protect the scramble. Walk off the summit trail.

the 5.9 direct finish of pitch 2 is quite fun. Traverse right at the 2nd pitch anchors and you can pick up on the pitch 2 anchors of Jim Dandy. as far as easy one move wonders go, this one is fun. The first pitch is a great first trad lead and can be done with a set of stoppers.

Super Excellent Climb!! First Pitch takes great pro all the way up if you stay in the seem proper and is mellow climbing. Second pitch is the gnar!! The notorious step across move to start off and then some nice exposed traversing with delicate crack climbing to finish! The variation the goes up the overhanging corner to the directly under the roof right after the step across move is super fun and will add a little spice (5.8-9ish moves) to the route, but if you do it make sure to protect the traverse well for your second! Have done it both variations and they are stellar!!

The long traverse of Pitch 2 is not ideally protected. On P2, right after the 1st big 'crossing the void' move, you have a long 15-20 foot traverse to the right. If you're an experienced trad climber in harder grades and have an experienced second, this will be easy. If you are new to leading trad or following, this traverse can be scary and dangerous (potentially leading to a huge swing out for you or your second). And you can't ideally rappel off P1 anchors to ground.

We topped out Peek a Boo today, and I would really not recommend it, because to get up to Lightning Ledge, you have to go through all of this burned vegetation and ashes, and the while the ground is falling apart below your feet. I bet I'll still have ashes in my clothes for a while...

This is an interesting route. Technically not hard but it is mentally very tough. I wound not recommened bringing new climber on this route. The one move wonder is great! But, it is very commiting and a 60m rope will not get you to the ground if you don't want to do it. Leaders should protect their seconds on the traverse because a fall on the big step could result in a huge swing. P1 and P2 are good. P3 is not great. I could not find the correct line (Nothing looked 5.4). I took the line of least resistance up and right and ended up beside Kmart Special. Everything there is wet if it has rain within the last week. Climbed up wet moss and dripping rock and dove through the bushes onto lightning ledge about 20 ft from the top of Cave route with about 10 ft of rope left (rope drag was terrible). Needless to say, rap from P2 and get on something else to the top. A good route regardless!

Don't bother continuing after you reach p2's anchor. My partner and I endured the rope drag to get to lightning ledge, but you're better off rapping down to Jim Dandy's p1 ledge and finishing up from there.

Hey southpark (ImNtYrGuyBddy), I feel that Jim Dandy would be a better first trad lead than this route. It is less scary and you are actually plugging gear between bolts. Cave Route would probably also be a better one than peek a boo.

To answer your question I'm not sure about a 70 but I know two 60's work.

This route is AWESOME! I can't believe people would call P2 a one move wonder. It's so freaking exciting and interesting, the whole way. I have never had so much fun in one 80 ft pitch. Very very Gunks-like after P1. I literally cannot believe it was only 5.5. The traverse is so heady..... I was freaking gripped man. You are not out of the woods after the move over the gap! Not at all. It was a BLAST! Super exposed and a diverse offering of skills and moves.

P1 more like 150ft. You will not be able to see the bolted anchor until within 15 ft of the anchor. Belay station found after several ledges on your way up and directly underneath the roof above. Follow the lichen free sections to the anchor.

Definitely better to rap from the pitch two anchors. If you are using two 60 meters be careful with your knots. The rappel is not complicated, but it would be better to have some experience rapping before doing this one.