Description

Two cruxes. Clip the first bolt and pull on to a ledge. After the second bolt climb and make a very tenuous third clip. Fight the pump and clip the fourth. LOTS of loose rock. Test everything before you commit to weighting it. Guidebook says "you can't see the anchors from the ground." Well, after clipping the fifth bolt, you've got another 35 feet of 5.6 climbing to the anchors. Easy but terrifying on crap rock like this. Options for dubious slung knobs exist but be prepared mentally for the final run up to the anchors.

Location

Left of Stupendous Man and right of The Cleft.

Protection

Concur that the lower section is tough, but fun. Yet the runout to anchors, although easy 5.6, is on typically VERY suspect Pinnacles. Any slip off this un-protected section, and you would scrape (painfully) down and over the bulge, then fall to the ground no matter what your belayer did. Why not put a bolt about half-way through this runout?

Climbed this with Adam, once you're above the last bolt the route trends slightly right on the better looking holds. I went left at first and got into an area where it was clear people had been pulling off chunks of rock. Not a great place to be when you're going to hit the deck if a hold breaks.