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Hi All, I am new to the forum, and apologize if this topic has been discussed.

I have a Specialized Langster New York, and I am looking to cut some weight from the bike. I have recently purchased an Easton e90 SLx fork and also a KCNC Ti seatpost. The next purchase will be a new set of light wheels to replace the stock Alex Rims R500 wheels.

From what I have seen online (maybe I'm not looking in the right places), most of the rear wheels are 130mm spacing for a standard road bike, and of the 120mm spaced rear wheels that I do find, most are significantly heavier than an equally priced or cheaper 130mm road wheel.

Get a set built. Plenty of 120mm hubs about. Are you after areo rims? Well here are a couple of option with estimated weights.Miche Primato small flange hubs fixed 450g per pair (claimed).Miche Primato large flange hubs fixed 520g per pair (claimed).Miche Primato track hubs large flange fixed/free 505g and more expensive (claimed).

If you build with the mavic Mavic CXP33 and Miche hubs with a 32H 3x build (Sapim race or DT comps with brass nipples) the total weight would be 1905g with all the claimed weight aded together. With a the DTswiss rims that would clim to ~ 2100g! They will never be light light and with lighter rims more weight can be saved. However most fixies get used in all whethers and in towns/cities so the wheel have to take a fair bit of abuse so it how light do you want to go?

Velocity make some deep section rims whih might be of interest and Hplus sons make rims make very deep section alloy rims but these are weighty like these http://hplusson.com/products" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I will look into those rim/hub options! I'm not looking for an aero rim specifically, just something that is a significant upgrade from the stock wheel in terms of weight. Would it make sense to get a road wheel for the front, and then just build a rear wheel?

Initially I was looking at the Pro-Lite Bracciano or American Classic Victory 30's, both of which come in under 1600g for the set, and are ~$380-$450 for the set. I then realized that my rear spacing was 120mm instead of 130mm. Based on your suggestion, it seems that the ~1600g mark isn't attainable with $500 for a single-speed setup?

If you're willing to go silver, and willing to go custom on the build, consider picking up the Novatec SS/FG hubs - these are QR compatible or use an allen bolt, which is lighter than the threaded nut option, and will look a lot cleaner.

The use you intend/your weight will dicate the build. Stans 340 will be fine for road use, they are even fine off road, 20/24H will be fine (proabbaly) if you are light and not jumping of kerbs and other urban fixie use. If you are after a set of wheels that will go anywhere then you cannot avoid some extra weight. 1600g build is doable for $500. All you need is those miche hubs (505g) and remeber this include heavy track axles and stans 340 rims with the front laced 3x with Sapim lasers and the rear with Spaim lasers. Expected weight ~1550g. Alu nipples have been used. If brass nipples are used then the build will close to~1600g. Your traget achieved.

Goi with lower spoke counts if you are light enough and yoiu are sticking to the road. For durability I would have more spokes than fewer. Didn't know your budget before so I assumed smaller rather than larger.

Last edited by bm0p700f on Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

Your build looks good! Not only are you losing 600g on the wheels alone, you'd be feeling a very dramatic and remarkable difference in the feel of the bike. The wheels will accelerate faster, be a bit more responsive, and will help in that 'light, airy' feeling that comes with lighter equipment.

The Novatec hubs are pretty high quality for the price. I'd put them just above the famous (and great) Formula hubs that have been re-branded everywhere. I helped a friend locally build up a set with the pair and he's been riding them solid for 2 years now, still smooth as ever. He used CX-Rays though, I don't remember the total weight but it was down near 1400 or high 1300s I think. If I were to build an urban SS, I'll probably end up doing the same. But it's just not my style right now.

Also, save some more weight:Use Veloplugs instead of rim tape, or Stan's yellow tape (in case you want to go tubeless in the future)Use a lighter butyl inner tube.

No nothing wrong with that build if you are light enough. I am still jealous. The main difference to the feel of the bike will be in the weight of the rim/spokes. The rotating mass of the hub hardly contributes to the moment of inertia of the wheel. So I worry little about the weight oif the hub within reason. But is the hubs are relaible why not use them.

Good point abou the tubes Anything lighter than Conti Race28 supersonics. Then there is the tyres, no point in saving all that weight at the rim aand stick some Schwable Marathon plus on there.

No need to use a heavy front hub. Use something cheap and much lighter like a BHS hub. For the rear, use something like a Miche low flange. Simply because if you're after light, the hub shells on most of the cheap hubs are similar weight but at least the Miche doesn't use propriety axles. That way you can replace the standard axle with a hollow quick release version usually for OEM type road hubs. Also, you can then use aluminum axle nuts and hardware or a light bolt on skewer.

You can also consider Trials rear hubs if you're happy to adjust the spacing a little bit (most are 116mm stock) and use an ISO cog on the disc side if you run a fixed gear at all.

Do you prize punture protection. If so perhaps Conti gator skin folding or Conti 4 season's folding. I am sure there are other tyres that work as well but they are the one that I use. 28c width would be a good idea for comfort ut not for your weight weenie inclinations.