If I were forced to drink wine made from only one grape for the rest of my days I would most probably opt for pinot noir.

It can be light enough for fish such as tuna and salmon, savoury enough for chicken and turkey, and hearty enough for meat stews.

The very simplest and cheapest versions are ideal for drinking over a good chat with friends.

It’s a grape which many wine-makers would like to try their hand at, but it’s very capricious, choosing only cooler climes to express itself.

Pinot’s natural home is, of course, Burgundy, where the grape is elevated to greatness but with prices to match.

Germany also produces some fine pinot but they can prove difficult to get hold of.

Fortunately, the New World, in the shape of Chile and New Zealand is producing some excellent stuff which can be grabbed off the shelves at the supermarket.

Chile’s paradoxically cool climate vineyards, wafted by the Pacific breezes, create the right conditions for fragrant but full-bodied wines.

One of the best producers is Cono Sur which blends grapes taken from vineyards along the length of this extraordinary country.

Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir 2012 (£7.49, on offer for £5.99 at The Co-op and Tesco from November 20 until December 3, Sainsbury’s from December 11 , and at Asda for £5.50 from December 5) is a great wine to have on hand for a warming glass on a cold night or for when friends turn up.

It offers a simple version of pinot’s easy-drinking raspberry fruit and a ripe palate.

Take a step up to Cono Sur Reserva Especial 2012 (£9.99 Waitrose and Ocado), grown in the Casablanca region, and there are rewards.

There’s a little more complexity, with some coffee on the nose and a little a hint of parma violets flavouring the ripe cherry fruit.

Double the price with Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2012 (£19.99 Tesco, Waitrose, Ocado and on offer at £18.49 from Morrisons until Monday) and you get a wine that will grace dinner parties and match Christmas turkey.

There’s spicy, cherry fruit on the nose with a hint of wood smoke, while in the mouth the wine is beautifully textured.

For most, Marlborough in New Zealand is synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc but the quality of the pinot noir here just gets better and better.

The Villa Maria Estate wines are a good place to head for quality at reasonable prices.

A mention must also go to Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir 2011 (£19.49 Ocado, Tesco.com, the drinkshop.com, York Wines, exelwines.co.uk, Majestic Wine) also from Marlborough with great purity and finesse.