I'm going to do this on Monday in my driveway. I currently have 4 jack stands and a floor jack. I am thinking of running to the local harbor freight store and getting either a transmission jack, motorcycle lift, or lift table to lower the sub frame from the car. Otherwise, it is going to be a bigger balancing act to lower it with just the floor jack.

ETA: I've done some reading and it seems the subframe doesn't have to be removed. I am taking the exhaust off because I am installing headers and exhaust after the bushings. Could I remove the exhaust, loosen the (4) sub frame bolts and slightly lower the assembly (leaving everything else hooked up) and replace them that way? I am going to use a sawzall to remove the stock ones.

Anyone else done this in their driveway? Any tips or suggestions?

10/3/2010: I got them installed all by myself. I used a floor jack and the whole sub frame actually balances quite well. Pretty straightforward process other than removing the old bushings... pain in the @$$!!.

I don't know yet. I started about 8pm and the hardest part, by far, was getting the factory bushings out. The bottom "hats" of the bushings were extremely tight on the front bushings and I couldn't pop them out like the rear ones. In order to get the front ones out, I had to take a drill and drill a series of holes around the core and take a very dull sawzall (I forgot to buy new blades and stores were all closed by the time I got to cutting) and cut around the center. The rear ones I just cored after removing the hats. Putting it back proved a small challenge as well. The assembly fell off the floor jack and I had to pick it up and put it back on. If I were weaker, I would have had to wait to call a friend in the AM. I literally tilted it up and pulled it back onto the floor jack. When reinstalling it, I kept having to move from side to side and under the car to get the driveshaft lined up and the bushings lined up. After reinstalling everything I took off, I moved on to the headers. I started with the O2 sensors. I wish I would have know that by removing the green "safety" things on them, they would unsnap. I bet I wasted 20 mins trying to get them undone before I figured out the green things. I then did the dipstick and started on the passenger side manifold bolts. I gave up because I was tired. I am going to finish the rest of the install tomorrow and will be driving it after that.

I also have some BMR bushings to install but am sick of suspension work at the moment. They will be much easier. They are trailing arm bushings. Honestly after accomplishing the sub frame by myself, I don't feel anything dealing with the car will be a challenge.

Well I can honestly say after all that you are a better man than me. Glad you got it finished without being injured. When you get a chance post your impressions, cause I am thinking about doing this mod also.

The key with the old bushings is to use a sawzall and start from the middle of each bushing and cut to the outer wall, once you cut through the whole bushing (till it makes contact with the metal subframe) then just grab a nice dead blow and give it a whack, it will fall right out . Some times you will need to put two cuts through at most on each bushing.

The difference is amazing, the rear end of the car is connected to the powertrain!

I don't know yet. I started about 8pm and the hardest part, by far, was getting the factory bushings out. The bottom "hats" of the bushings were extremely tight on the front bushings and I couldn't pop them out like the rear ones. In order to get the front ones out, I had to take a drill and drill a series of holes around the core and take a very dull sawzall (I forgot to buy new blades and stores were all closed by the time I got to cutting) and cut around the center. The rear ones I just cored after removing the hats. Putting it back proved a small challenge as well. The assembly fell off the floor jack and I had to pick it up and put it back on. If I were weaker, I would have had to wait to call a friend in the AM. I literally tilted it up and pulled it back onto the floor jack. When reinstalling it, I kept having to move from side to side and under the car to get the driveshaft lined up and the bushings lined up. After reinstalling everything I took off, I moved on to the headers. I started with the O2 sensors. I wish I would have know that by removing the green "safety" things on them, they would unsnap. I bet I wasted 20 mins trying to get them undone before I figured out the green things. I then did the dipstick and started on the passenger side manifold bolts. I gave up because I was tired. I am going to finish the rest of the install tomorrow and will be driving it after that.

I also have some BMR bushings to install but am sick of suspension work at the moment. They will be much easier. They are trailing arm bushings. Honestly after accomplishing the sub frame by myself, I don't feel anything dealing with the car will be a challenge.

The trailing arm bushings are a breeze, don't sweat them at all. Once you get everything back together let us all know how much better the car feels!

I got to drive the car today. Between the new bushings and the headers/exhaust it feels like a different car. The new bushings definitely eliminated 90% of the wheelhop. I did experience a little but nothing like before. I can't say it wasn't the road either as there was construction in the area and the road was messed up.

bkscott, there is a difference. You can "feel" the road more and there is more road noise. The ride is ever so slightly stiffer. I recommend them. I am also sending you a PM.

...In order to get the front ones out, I had to take a drill and drill a series of holes around the core and take a very dull sawzall (I forgot to buy new blades and stores were all closed by the time I got to cutting) and cut around the center....

I like how none of the manufacturers' directions mention use of a torch to lightly heat up those front metal subframe hats, far more effective than bending/scratching them up, only to not get them off. SO I am mentioning it now. Works like a charm should anyone else have problems removing them. And definitely have several new sawzall blades before starting.

I like how none of the manufacturers' directions mention use of a torch to lightly heat up those front metal subframe hats, far more effective than bending/scratching them up, only to not get them off. SO I am mentioning it now. Works like a charm should anyone else have problems removing them. And definitely have several new sawzall blades before starting.

Sonofa... I wish I had known that. I didn't have any issues with the rear, bigger ones, only the front smaller 2.