1st is a 1951 20" w/production table,200$ off the Bay.Had enough "issues" to keep most from bidding.Did a nice job welding CI mounting bosses on top cvr.Table is clean.Still missing a cpl items for pwr downfeed.......just haven't got a round to fabricating them.Its in our woodshop and sees right much use.

2nd is a '47 Radial.....rediculously clean,400 off CL.It has 16 factory spds...then we added a two speed motor for 32 spds.Its in machine shop side of facility.Gets used alot.

Vises are real important once you get a DP.The W/T in woodshop is sporting a Heinrich 8" quickvise(free,cause PO didn't know/care about adj it).The radial's vise is a uber $$ German Air/Hyd unit(1 of a pair gotten from a dumpster)

Powermatic's and Clausings show up frequently....along with W/T,all very much worth any effort spent fixin them up.Hate to say it,but go big on table size,really makes a difference.BW

I have two presses: 1 ryobi bought new- tabletop- 100 bucks. press#2 I scored at a yardsale -floor standing- craftsman- 40 bucks
they have been awesome
rick

I agree, spending $600 - $800 for a home drill press is nuts unless you are a production or professional shop. Sounds like a bench or tabletop DP would do fine for the OP (that's all I have been using for the past 12 years). OP should be able to get something new for well under $200, and used for $50 or so...

As to doing milling on the press, I have a #3 morse taper for the chuck, and for some collets. I installed a 1/4" setscrew into the side of the quill about midway of the taper length. I have carefully ground a relief on the morse taper of the chuck arbor and the collets to match the setscrew. I have never had a slippage or dropout problem, but you are very correct if that was not done. Of course, I don't take hogging cuts either. Light and steady gets it done satisfactorily.

Aloha, Tony

That's a somewhat standard method for retaining MT tooling, and it works well. I've got a horizontal boring mill with a MT6 spindle and its set up to use either a setscrew thru the spindle onto a flat on the toolholder, or to use a draw key that looks somewhat like a MT drift that secures the toolholder by slipping it thru a slot in the spindle and a matching slot in the toolholder and bumping with a hammer to tighten.

Features:
- Multi speed - speeds are important for variety of material worked on
- Floor model - allows one to do much than a bench-top model.
- Quill Travel - 4" to 6"
- Swing - I am assuming that 22" is ideal. Is that correct?

Check On:
- Quill Runout - More runout - less accuracy

Other Tips:
- Use sharp drills and oil.
- If you buy the Taiwanese, you may be stuck with it for life, even if it sets on fire.
- Check eBay for price range.
- For restoring older Norther American and European units, check out owwm.
- 16" is the most common swing. 20" and 22" are rare, and have 3 phase motors.
- Vices are very important to have when using a drill press.
- The bigger the work table on the press, the better.
- For a non-professional set up, should be able to get a good used drill press for about $50, and a new one for about $200.
- If planning to drill metal 1/2" or larger, look for lowest speed of around 200 rpm.

----

Quote:

Originally Posted by silentpoet

You could just buy the HF one and wear steel toe boots around it.

Lol! You would say something like that!

Quote:

Originally Posted by user151

I agree, spending $600 - $800 for a home drill press is nuts unless you are a production or professional shop. Sounds like a bench or tabletop DP would do fine for the OP (that's all I have been using for the past 12 years). OP should be able to get something new for well under $200, and used for $50 or so...

I believe that price range suggested by cboy was for a more professional operation.

I'm guessing the following conversation is beyond my scope . I understand you guys are talking about milling, but I got lost after that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TubeTek

...I'd be very careful in attempting any milling with a drill press. Regardless of whether the press has a Jacobs taper or a Morse taper spindle, both are designed for strictly thrust loads and not for lateral loads. A lateral load can cause the chuck to come loose off the taper and drop while you're cutting, and that's not a fun situation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldebrush

...As to doing milling on the press, I have a #3 morse taper for the chuck, and for some collets. I installed a 1/4" setscrew into the side of the quill about midway of the taper length. I have carefully ground a relief on the morse taper of the chuck arbor and the collets to match the setscrew. I have never had a slippage or dropout problem, but you are very correct if that was not done. Of course, I don't take hogging cuts either. Light and steady gets it done satisfactorily.

We have a vertcal mill at the workplace too, so any heavy work has to be done there. But I like the idea of being able to mill something at home too.

Aloha, Tony

Quote:

Originally Posted by TubeTek

That's a somewhat standard method for retaining MT tooling, and it works well. I've got a horizontal boring mill with a MT6 spindle and its set up to use either a setscrew thru the spindle onto a flat on the toolholder, or to use a draw key that looks somewhat like a MT drift that secures the toolholder by slipping it thru a slot in the spindle and a matching slot in the toolholder and bumping with a hammer to tighten.

----

Thank you guys so much for the continued help with this. I am still in the process of shopping around for a good deal and I have a much better understanding of what's out there and and what too look for.

The reviews of what you own is a very big help as well.

A very big thanks to all of you who have taken the time to post pictures of what you have. It allows some one like me to put the name and face together, so to speak.

Again, thanks much. If there is anything else anyone would like to add, please do. I myself am still shopping around. And I am sure many others will find this info very beneficial.

Drill Press for the Home Hobbyist - Brands, Features and Price Range Recommendations

Silverhawk,

You have assimilated a lot of information. Hope you can come accross a good deal. Oh, and, Walker-Turner is NOT one of the newer brands, it is one of the better vintage brands and very desireable.

If you haven't done so yet, get on the OWWM website. There are a lot of members all around you and they would be willing & able to getting a good drill. Only, they DO NOT discuss any Asian or modern stuff, at all, nor do they give appraisals on machinery. Just good advice, and well worth it.

Several years ago I bought a cheap Chinese variety drill press from a friend, and it does most things I need, but it does have one major flaw. The drill chuck will shift under side pressure. Not usually a problem for me, but if accuracy of placement is critical, the cheap offshore manufactured drill press will let you down sometimes. Scruffybeast

I have the Rigid one from HD. It works great. Wish it had a key less chuck though. I bought it to drill holes in the top of my Bee Hives and 15 inch gives me a 7.5 inch center reach. Almost to the center where I want it. Only slightly off center.

No, I haven't bought one yet. I've been looking around on Craigslist for a used unit as often as I can. Majority of them are old Sears units and they are either too far for me to go check out (and I've been working a late shift), or they are part of a package deal for many tools that I either can't afford (like a full machine shop), or don't need.

One of the features that was recommended was having a swing of at least 16", but I haven't come across anything that size in a unit that would be affordable to me. I know I saw a couple of units with 22" quill, but they were way up there I price. I just checked again and there is a Delta Rockwell with a 15" going for $200, and a Sears with a 15 1/2" inch going for $150.

Starting tomorrow, Im on vacation until just after New Year's, so I'll be checking more regularly and be able to drive out to where ever I see a good deal. With people usually pretty broke around this time, a few good deals should be popping up.

If it turns out that there is no good deal to be had on a solid used unit, I may keeping saving the moola until I can afford a newer or a brand new unit.

I did buy a new Ryobi grinder though! Just set it up a couple of nights ago. Haven't found anything to grind... yet. I hope I don't get carried away and start grinding pieces of metal into weird shapes like I do with wood on the sanding machine.

Too bad there's so much liquid between us, 'cause there's a nice 16" Walker-Turner floor model with the big production table on it here in Honolulu. Asking $350 for it and it has the power feed feature too, but you won't need that unless you get into production drilling. It's also got an Albrect keyless chuck on it.

If I didn't have the 22" unit I have, I might just have to get it, but I won't do that.

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