Managed to get it built just in time for the gravity enduro at Dyfi Forest. Nice rocky, fast descents to tune the shock in. The CCDBAir feels amazing to me, small adjustments make big differences to the handling. Although some suggest a Monarch for the frame, I had a good offer from the cane creek and that decided it for me.

The bike as a whole is confidence inspiring. I haven't ridden anything yet where I felt that I needed the DH bike. If anything the lighter bike is easier to handle. I just need to get a few more rides in to get the shocks all dialled in. I was expecting alot more pedal bob during climbs on the 66 frame, I can't say how much is down to my settings on the ccdbair but it pedals really well.

Glad to hear you're getting back on the trails Dazzler, time has flown, it seems only yesterday I put my hand in a cast!

As for the 34's - I was unsure whether to go for 36's again. I spoke to the guys at Mojo in the UK and over a few phone calls the team riders all suggested the 34 as it supposedly offers more control in the corners. I honestly can't notice too much difference between the 34 & 36, although the 34 feels a lot more plush and stable than the 2012 float 32 on my hardtail. That combined with the 1lb weight saving over the 36 swayed the decision for me. I'm also very impressed with the CTD.

I am 5'10" (1.79m) and ride a medium. It is perfect for me with a short 50mm stem. It has a real good long reach for a medium. I think a 70mm stem would be perfect for you especially if you prefer a more technical ride, more XC I would consider Large.

As for bad language... We all speak the same lingo on the Yeti thread no matter where you come from

Steed: Yeti SB-66

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@osbow - What do you think about the combo: Large with a short 35mm stem?

I ride a medium and with the longer top tube of the SB66 find myself most comfortable on a 35mm stem. It's great for descending, but I do catch myself fighting to keep the front wheel down on steeper climbs. Alternately when I run a 50mm stem it definitely climbs better, but gives up a bit on descending.

I'm 5'-9" riding a medium SB66. With a medium frame I find it takes a conscious effort to re-centre your body wieght (forward on the turns / centered for jumps) wereas on a shorter TT bike it seems to happen more naturally.

I do find though for steep, rooty, rocky sections the long TT / wheelbase make for a very stable bike and allow you to carry some extra speed through those sections.

Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?

Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my first bike next spring and I'm leaning towards an SB66 right now. I'm trying to come up with a build for one, but I don't know much about all the components yet so I need some help. I'm 6'2, 200lbs and looking to do basic AM with both climbing and descending and my budget is $4000. The frame locally is $1700 so I'm trying to figure out what sort of build I can do for $2300. Anyone willing to help me get an idea?

Its doable. It takes time and what I would recommend doing is making an Excel spreadsheet, and then listing each part and then pricing each part out. Here's an example:

It's a wide open question yboc which the answer is very dependant on your riding style, trail types, etc.

I spread my budget wisely and invested in all non-consumable items with a for a fairly burly build including 36 talas, hope hoops (Stans Flow rims) hope M4 brakes, Renthal bar/stem, Joplin 4 dropper. I went with SLX complete drive train (2x10) which I can upgrade as it wears out. This allowed me to pump money in to the bread & butter stuff you wouldn't likely replace. A wise punt I think as drive train is consumable and can be upgraded over coming years...

This is a very strong heavy build that isn't a quick as a more XC orientated light weight buil but gives me a good confident ride. I ride without much finesse and @ 220lbs (me not bike!) it felt better suited for me.

A 32 fork for XC tilt, 34 for XC/AM and 36 for AM/FR is a good guide. I would suggest 2 foot, 4 foot and 6 foot drops respectively should categorise reasonably well!?!

Steed: Yeti SB-66

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Haha... Bikeboard' I did very similar spreadsheet (without the weight) to help derive the optimum build for me when I was spec'ing up my SB. Quick easy to juggle components about to balance budget across the build. I really enjoy this process, which was my first custom build. I spent many weeks with not too much hurry as I was laid up with broken leg so helped me through a rough spell.

All good now that bike is built and I am back in the saddle loving every mile!!!

Steed: Yeti SB-66

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Dazzler2409, I have to say this spreadsheet has been quite fun to piece together until buying time comes. I wouldn't call me a weight weenie by any means, but I figured while I was at it I'd add it on and see about where I'd be at. I'd say your categorization of forks is fairly accurate, I just wish I could get a non CTD Fox 34.

To be fair I may have gone for a 34 fork had they been an option when I got mine. Not sure about the simplicity of the CTD though? I prefer the scope of the RC2 FIT to tune the perfect custom handling. I think the CTD detracts from the ability to do this. I am heavier build and therefore CTD doesn't allow to tune for this without FOX service centre tuning, I would imagine the D to be under damped?

Steed: Yeti SB-66

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I will definitely do a spreadsheet to kind of get an idea of what parts to get. Right now I'm still trying to learn about all the different parts, and trying to get an idea what might work best for me.

I live in Utah, so there's quite a bit of mountain trails and also a lot of desert ones down south. As far as what kind of riding I'll be doing, its vague I know but I really think I'll be pretty versatile with it. Definitely some lengthy trail rides with climbs, and some technical and speedy descents as I progress too. I come from a offroad motorcycle background so some jumping, and flowy riding is also something I'd like to do.

I honestly have so many questions about parts, I don't even know where to start.

Dazzler, it sounds like we have similar concerns with the 34. While I haven't ridden one myself, the general consensus from other is the that all the tuning "options" end up limiting the its ability to be fine-tuned, which I think would only be magnified for those that are lighter or heavier than what the fork was tuned for.

yboc, if it helps I'm up in Ogden. Where do you normally ride? I think a SLX kit is a great way to go. As a kit the weight is just a bit more than XT, but the breaks are arguably just as powerful and the cranks just as stiff. If you can fit a Reverb into the build it is definitely worth it, especially with all the ups and downs Utah has. Its the best upgrade I've made to a bike thus far.

I just bought a Carbon on Saturday. Went in wanting the Aluminium one. It was going to take about 2 months for the dealer to get an alloy version. Apparently everyone has been scooping them up like hot cakes, combined with a low number (in comparison to other brands) made.