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4 FineScale Modeler July 2016

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EDITOR’S PAGE By Mark Savage

Older and wiser: How do we cope?

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have some news for you: None of teens hovering over the family card us are getting any younger. table with our model spread out on a Much as I already had susnewspaper to sop up errant glue and pected this was the case, my astute paint. observation was conirmed during a But as dedicated modelers, we’re weekend at the AMPS International not about to give up the hobby. Nor Convention. hat’s the Armor do we want to start building crummy Modeling and Preservation looking models. So how Society’s annual do, this time do we cope? I’ve tried in balmy Sumter, S.C. I’ve tried squinting a squinting Aaron Skinner and I had lot, holding parts at varia lot, a great time at the show, ous distances from my holding saw a lot of fantastic tanks, nose. Sometimes I wish parts at guns, halftracks, and my arms were longer. I various trucks. We’ll run a gallery guess an OptiVisor is a betdistances in a future issue. ter answer to dimming eyefrom my But as a 60-something sight. nose. guy, I felt like I was Some of us use stools or attending a meeting of padded chairs at the workmy peers. Many of us bench. Some of us have walk with a slight limp, have eyes installed better lighting in our workthat demand bifocal or trifocal lenses, shops. and a bunch of us bring along a longWe all have our various coping time but cranky friend, Arthur Ritus! mechanisms. Not all the joints and ingers are as What have you done to continue cooperative as when we were premodeling despite your bum back,

Hey, I do have a sprue in my hand!

fumbling ingers, and fuzzy eyesight? We’d like to know. Please take a few minutes out of your busy summer to drop me an e-mail or letter telling me what contraptions you’ve built, or tricks you’ve mastered, to keep your modeling A-game alive. Inquiring minds want to know!

Teddy Roosevelt is a hero of mine. Love his get-the-job-done attitude, his hands-on approach, and his moxie. Anyone who could get any Congress to establish our great National Park System is just “bully” with me!

My grandfather, Lee Skinner. He was a Seabee in the Pacific during World War II and worked in the aviation industry after, two things I’d loved to have talked to him about. But he died years before I was born.

It would be a hoot to meet H.L. Mencken, a grand curmudgeon who defined Puritanism as “the haunting fear that someone, somewhere, may be happy.” However, if I could meet Will Rogers there is a better chance he’d like me.

I would like to meet Cleopatra to talk about ancient Egyptian politics and gold accessories.

John F. Kennedy. He had a Camelot lifestyle and was good-looking (appealing to a 6-yearold girl). At my Catholic school he was a big deal. We even studied his Profiles in Courage with Sister Deotilla (laugh, but that was her name).

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It “figures” I am excited about the new Form & Figure column! For years, I have been toying with the idea of taking a break from my usual modeling habits and exploring this particular arm (nyuk nyuk nyuk) of modeling. I can’t count how many times I’ve been close to getting a figure but, for whatever reason, never pulled the trigger. I’m hoping this column will be the kick in the pants I need to finally stop stalling and take the plunge. Thanks a bunch, FSM. – Dave Emory Newark, Del.

Something for everyone The March 2016 FSM Editor’s Page really hit home for me. I have subscribed to the magazine on and off for years. As an aircraft modeler, I have tried subscribing to other aircraft-only publications. But they just were not FSM. I have learned more from all the different modeling genres than I could imagine. FSM really highlights the modeling community as a whole. Armor, ships, sci-fi, airliners, and figures all have something to offer. Every modeler benefits, so what could be better? Happy modeling!

Education never looked so good! Here’s a display I put together for public education. It is a lesson on scale ratios and was in the Lake County Library (Merrillville, Ind.) through February. It was meant to be more than just a model show, although it does have that element to it. The bottom level shows a full-size duck that my sister painted as an example of 1/1 scale. On the other end is an Apollo moon landing model in 1/96 scale, while the next level has autos scaled from 1/35 to 1/12. The top level features airplanes from 1/28 to 1/72 scale. Ratios are hard to do when they are connected by an equal sign. People sometimes get the ratios upside down. – Miles Dunscombe Merrillville, Ind.

thought this guy can’t be all bad — he’s a minister, and sitting on his coffee table is a copy of FineScale Modeler. The evening was about to end and we Everybody’s got a stash were getting up to say our goodbyes. The My wife never could understand the conminister apologized for boring me with cept of “The Stash.” She their old tales. I sugalways thought I should gested that next time My wife’s mouth build and then buy. At we could talk about the time, my stash was modeling, as I subdropped open. only about five models. scribed to FSM, too. He I said, “Vindicated!” During our first few just lit up and insisted I years together, she got see his display room and back in touch with her old minister at a shop. Who could resist? church where she had been the secretary. We all went to the basement and he The minister and his wife invited us for showed an impressive display and shop. We coffee. I sat quietly as the three of them turned a corner and there was a complete reminisced about long-ago church stuff. I wall of stash. My wife’s mouth dropped

– Steve Berktold Covina, Calif.

open. I said, “Vindicated!” She never questioned it again … but, then again, I have fewer than 20 kits in my stash. – Kevin Good Manchester, Mo.

What about the camouflage? That was a great article on creating a realistic rough sea by Chris Flodberg in the April issue. I would like to see some of his other works. However, the article “Painting Perfect Leading Edges” did not help me. While I found the article instructive, I was more interested in the approach Pablo Bauleo used to do the camo pattern. I have attempted to do something of a similar

More at www.Finescale.com FineScale.com/OnlineExtras Mark Hembree interviews Steve Neill — the master modeler who built the 66" Enterprise in the May issue. Read about Neill’s fascinating career in cinematic visual effects.

Download a desktop wallpaper Have the best-looking computer when you download a free desktop wallpaper of Italeri’s 1/32 scale Mirage IIIC built by Caleb Horn for Workbench Reviews on page 59.

New Product Rundown Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner pick the hottest scale model kits, rifle through the boxes, tell you their thoughts ... and they just may have a bit of fun while they’re at it, too.

www.FineScale.com

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ARA Press

SCALE TALK

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nature, but they did not turn out as well. Perhaps an article on his approach would be worthwhile. I have been reading this magazine since its inception. Interestingly enough, as the mag has gotten better so has my modeling. – Phil Modica Naperville, Ill.

Enjoying the new selection Have you noticed the number of new tracked or caterpillar scrapers there are on the market now? Personally, I’m happy. No more repackaged Tigers or Shermans. These new models are refreshing to work on, even though each has its own problems. I love them all, from Meng’s D9 through MiniArt’s D7 and now Takom’s M9 ACE. All that’s needed is the M105 DUECE, or maybe a Tournapull. A whole new line of vehicles in 1/35 would be great, too. – Gary Baran Waukesha, Wis.

A lot to choose from I think FSM is doing the right thing by mixing model genres in articles. I’m primarily an armor modeler, but the diversity of your articles helps open my mind to other subjects and techniques. Keep up the great work. – Brent Sauer Kansas City, Mo.

Have you seen JoshiBlob? Hello, my name is Joshua Bennett, but most people know me as JoshiBlob. That’s because I have a YouTube channel called JoshiBlob where I make models. I am supported by Revell and my channel is growing rapidly. I started modeling about six months ago, when I was 15. My granddad got me into modeling. He is a huge inspiration to me. He used to work with planes in hangars and on the lights on racetracks. I love listening to his war stories about all the planes he has flown in and worked on. He has since miraculously survived cancer, and I truly admire him for his bravery. If any of you modelers have an interest, you can check out my YouTube channel by searching for JoshiBlob. I hope we can all learn together. – Joshua Bennett Wigan, Greater Manchester, England

If you can’t say anything nice... Where do I start? I got back into modeling in 2000 after a 50-year break. Over the past five years, I’ve been talking with a good friend almost every day about modeling. Here is what we have to say to those who feel the need to criticize other builders’ work at contests: Keep your thoughts and comments to yourself. We build models for ourselves, and if we like them, that should be enough. Yes, our

models are not perfect. Nor was the real thing, sometimes. As long as we try our hardest while still having fun building, that’s fine with us. My friend does beautiful modeling and I ask him to bring his models to contests. He always answers, “I do not need a person with a flashlight or a magnifying glass to tell me what is wrong with my work. I do it to please myself and no one else.” On the flip side, I go to contests to meet other people with whom I share a common interest. I’ve met some really nice people at a lot of contests over the years, but I’ve also met some real jerks. However, I try to forget about those people who say mean things, and I look forward to the next contest. And while I have won some awards, just being there is a reward for me. – Tom Cox Perrysburg, Ohio

A fan of figures I’m writing you from County Cork, Ireland to say what a great magazine you have. Very interesting, informative, and helpful with a lot of handy hints. I’m turning 50 this year. I cast and paint Prince August figures, including some from The Lord of the Rings. I bought some Tamiya and Airfix models a few years ago and am now putting them together. I find modeling interesting and relaxing. Your magazine definitely helps when I come across problems. So keep up the good work, and thanks again.

GET MORE of what you love at FineScale.com!

– Charlie Davis Cobh, Cork, Ireland

Make room in the display case I just wanted to let Mark Hembree know that he is not the only one who dreams big to the extreme. A 1/32 scale B-36 would be really awesome. I briefly toyed with the idea of scratchbuilding my father’s plane, but where do you display a model with a 7' 21⁄4" wingspan? Instead, I settled for a 1/32 scale C-47. Today I put in my votes for the MostWanted Kits. But I thought, while I’m writing, I would mention some of the planes my customers who model in 1/32 scale talk about most often: They are the Yak-3 or Yak-9, Ju 52, F7F Tigercat, B-17F, and B-26B. Keep up the good work. – James Hartgraves Owner, Airkraft Scale Models Hurst, Texas www.FineScale.com

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SPOTLIGHT Compiled by Aaron Skinner

A little French delight from Takom Extended AMX-13 family includes Israeli and upgunned variants

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eveloped to replace American light tanks in French army ranks, the 15-ton AMX-13 mounted a powerful 75mm (and later 90mm) gun in an oscillating turret. More than 7,500 were built between 1952 and 1985. hey served the French army until the mid-1980s, including combat during the 1956 Suez Crisis and limited engagement in Algeria. Dozens of nations bought the little tank, including Israel, Egypt, India, and Lebanon. Takom’s family of AMX-13s includes the later version armed with a 90mm gun (No. 2037), a French army version packing turretmounted antitank guided missiles (No. 2038), and the subject of this review, the original light tank armed with a 75mm main gun (No. 2036). Beautifully rendered features mark the surface of major parts like the hull and turret. he molding exhibits ine bolts, rivets and fasteners, recessed hatch outlines, raised weld seams, and crisp vents. here’s no indication of cast texture on the transmission cover or turret, but the omission is easily rectiied with liquid cement or Mr. Surfacer. he fenders have thin edges, the hatches and tools are separate, and the gun barrel is molded in halves with a detailed muzzle brake. Other features include: clear lights and periscopes; a vinyl insert for the conspicuous canvas dust cover between the turret sections; separate tires for the road wheels; a posable gun travel lock; and optional parts for the Israeli and French versions. he instructions point out the diferences. Petite individual track links join around the running gear. Photo-etched brass supplies engine screens, light guards, brackets for machinegun ammunition boxes, and jerry-can racks. Decals provide markings for Lebanese and Venezuelan service and two Israeli vehicles during the 1967 Six-Day War. Color callouts reference Ammo of Mig Jimenez paints. Takom’s AMX-13 costs $50. More info: www.takom-world.com

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Lovely looking Lansen

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wedish kit maker Tarangus specializes in homeland subjects, including the Saab 32 Lansen. More than 400 of the two-seat multirole warplanes served the Swedish air force from 1956-1997. Tarangus’ initial 1/72 scale Lansen (No. TA7202) represents the J32 ighter version, armed with cannons and Sidewinders. he kit comprises three sprues of parts — two medium gray and one clear. Fine recessed panel lines and rivets mark the surface, but there are no locators. Features include: relief detail on the cockpit instrument panels and consoles; multipart ejection seats; structural elements in the wheel wells; deep intakes and jet pipe; and optional antennas to model an electronic-jamming version. Beautifully printed decals and color diagrams provide markings for four Swedish Lansens, including stencils. Tarangus’ Saab J32 costs $49.50. More info: www.tarangus.se.

BOOKSHELF Abrams all-access pass Sabot Publications, a venture by FSM authors Chris Mrosko and Brett Avants, has released its irst book, M1A2 SEP Abrams Main Battle Tank (ISBN 978-0-9973774-08, $29.99). his terriic one-stop reference includes operational photos of the latest Abrams version as well as hundreds of detailed images inside and out. In all, it’s just about everything a modeler could need to superdetail any kit on the market, including the latest from Meng (named on the cover). Captions call out points of interest, including optics, attachments, and seldom seen running-gear features. Sabot sets a high standard with this 100-page softcover volume. I can’t wait to see what’s next.

Spitire anniversary spectacular This year marks the 80th anniversary of the Spitire’s irst light, a milestone Osprey marks with a beautiful hardcover, Spitire — The Legend Lives On (ISBN 978-1-4728-1549-1, $45) by John Dibbs and Tony Holmes. his large-format cofee-table book combines stunning air-to-air photos of many of the surviving Spits with historical images and accounts of their individual histories, as well as stories from combat pilots. he book covers the life of the ighter, from the Mk.I to the Grifon-engined Mk. XVIII. Photorecon Spitires and carrier-based Seaires also are featured. he inal chapters include a gallery warbirds still lying — photos that would be at home on a calendar — and archival photos. An appendix covers major variants. If you appreciate the graceful curves of Supermarine’s ighter and eye-popping photography, you’ll love this book. More info: www.ospreypublishing.com.

Spray-out pot for cleaner cleanup

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lushing your airbrush after painting can be messy, and possibly hazardous, as atomized thinner wafts into the air. Iwata makes the job easier with a Universal Spray-Out Pot (No. CL300), consisting of a 10-oz. dishwasher-safe glass jar wrapped in a removable nonslip rubber sleeve. he sturdy lid has an opening that should securely hold most airbrush noses. Air is vented through a changeable ilter in the lid. he ilter cap is a handy spot to place small parts, such as nozzles, while cleaning. A padded bracket supports the brush, and a metal leg keeps the pot from tipping. he pot should make cleanup easier, especially in conined spaces. It costs $31.95.

First-in-the-line panzer detailed Germany’s feared Panzerkorps started life in the early 1930s armed with the diminutive PzKpfw I. he 6-ton vehicle was used through World War II, a history traced by David Doyle in German Panzer I — A Visual History of the German Army’s World War II Light Tank (Ampersand, ISBN 978-1-944367-05-3, $28.95). he 168-page hardcover has more than 200 photos of the light tanks during training and combat, including some from the Spanish Civil War. Several variants are covered, including Ausf A, B, C, and F, as well as radio and command vehicles. he inal section has color walkarounds of A, B, and F tanks. Most of the book’s images are full-page, providing a wealth of detail for modelers. www.FineScale.com

Allied-Axis - the photo journal of the Second World War - S35 Somua in French and German Service, $15.95, softcover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1944367-30-5. From Ampersand Publishing Company, Inc.

am going to demonstrate painting lighter lesh on Knight Models’ 70mm hor, the Marvel superhero. I wanted his skin to have a Nordic pallor without looking cartoonish or like a vampire. he colors come from three diferent Vallejo paint sets, although they also are available separately. I like having the sets for a couple of reasons: First, they give you several similar colors, so it’s easy to alter shades. Second, I ind I try colors I might not have considered before. I cleaned up the metal parts and illed gaps with Aves Apoxie Sculpt. For ease of handling during painting, I drilled holes in the feet and glued in metal rods.

1 Before painting, I sprayed the parts with Vallejo gray surface primer. I left the head and cape off for painting. The right hand is molded with the cape, and the left hand with the hammer. 18 FineScale Modeler July 2016

2 I mixed a base flesh color by stirring a drop of black red into a palette cup of beige red. This color is easy to replicate if I make a mistake and need to do touch-ups.

3 After base-coating Thor’s muscular arms, I apply the first shadows by adding a little more black red to the base flesh color and painting recesses and folds.

4 To cool the shadows, I added a little hexed lichen, a purple shade, to the color.

7 I trace the shape of the muscles as I apply the highlights and shadows to further define them.

10 Here you see the same progression on Thor’s right arm. I highlighted the top of his shoulder, exposed ridges, and upper reaches of the forearm muscles.

5 Painting a thin glaze of basic skintone mixed with water over the shadows helps blend them and reduces the contrast.

8 Keeping in mind the position of the figure relative to an overhead light source, I highlight the topmost areas, such as the left bicep.

11 The brightest highlights are a mixture of flesh and small amounts of basic skintone.

6 For highlights, I added a little beige red to the base color. As highlighting progressed, I added flesh for the palest shades.

9 For highlights, I work progressively through lighter colors, applying them to smaller and smaller areas using less and less paint.

12 This palette shows the progression of highlight mixes from the base color on the left to the shade applied to the uppermost features on the right.

Finally, I applied verdigris with a fine brush along raised veins. The greenish translucent paint provides a nice impression of underlying blood vessels.

After I dip a brush in paint, I unload it on a paper towel, rolling it to point the tip and remove excess color for a more-controlled application. FSM

Next Joe’s mood turns blue as he paints the uniform of Medal of Honor recipient Joshua Chamberlain.

www.FineScale.com

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AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING By Fausto Muto

Pastels finish de Unique medium offers more control than airbrushing Pastels: After scraping dark green pastels off a stick with a knife, Fausto gently applied them with a fine brush and gradually built up each splotch to the desired size and shape.

Engine: Dark metallic shades colored the block of the DB 601. Oil washes and dry-brushing brought out the details.

The first Bf 109s in North Africa received a camouflage to match the desert battlefield, including striking green splotches on upper surfaces. Fausto’s model replicates Black 8, the subject of a few well-known color photos.

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Dry-brushing: Lighter shades of blue and desert yellow across salient points made them pop against the surface. The same technique applied to wide areas topside gave the impression of sun-faded paint.

sert camouflage Pre-shading: Using color modulation, Fausto primed the fighter with three contrasting colors: black, gray, and white. Thin layers of the camouflage colors reveal the base coats and give a sense of light and shadow.

“As long as I look into the muzzles, nothing can happen to me. Only if he pulls lead am I in danger.” – Hans-Joachim Marseille, Bf 109 pilot and ace

Wash: Fausto thinned tempera paint with water, brushed it over the surface, and let it dry. Wiping excess away with a damp, not wet, cloth enhanced recessed detail. He says the acrylic paint provides a finer finish than oils.

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he North African desert took a toll on men and machines. Strong sunlight faded paint, and extreme swings from scorching heat during the day to freezing temperatures at night, as well as sand and grit, wore at edges. I wanted to replicate these efects on Eduard’s 1/48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109E-7 Trop. I built the model mostly out of the box, including photoetched (PE) details and Super Fabric seat belts. I added many of the plastic cockpit parts before airbrushing them with RLM 02 gray. A wash of dark brown artist’s oils enhanced the detail. he PE instrument panel looks very realistic. he beautifully detailed engine makes closing the cowl a sacrilege. I painted the DB 601 with dark metallic shades, then increased the contrast with thin washes of dark oils. I pre-shaded the little ighter with three shades — black underneath, white on upper surfaces, and gray in between — all Tamiya acrylics applied by airbrush. Fine sandpaper smoothed rough patches in these base coats before I proceeded. A day later, I sprayed RLM 78 himmelblau under the wings and horizontal stabilizers and most of the way up the fuselage using Tamiya acrylics. he upper surfaces received a layer of RLM 79 sandgelb. I mixed these colors with more than 70% Tamiya thinner and applied them in light layers to create variations in tone with the diferent base colors. he splotches of RLM 80 olivgrün used on some Luftwafe ighters in North Africa need to be tight and wispy, and look as if they were applied with a spray gun. But an airbrush can be diicult to control at such a ine level. So, I opted instead to “paint” the splotches with pastels, brushing the powder gently into the lat paint. I added more until the density looked right, then post-shaded them with a lighter shade of pastels. Clear gloss sealed the pastels and laid a foundation for decals. I started weathering by spraying the model with thin glaze-like layers of clear mixed with a few drops of Tamiya deck tan. his blends and fades the camoulage and markings. hen came an overall wash of tempera paint to enhance recessed panel lines and details. Dry-brushing highlighted rivets and faded the paint. After a coat of clear lat and inal details, my Messerschmitt was done. FSM www.FineScale.com

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THUNDERBOLT to the rescue Modeling a 1/72 scale P-47D for SAR /// BY FRANK CUDEN

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erhaps I should explain: SAR stands for Search And Rescue, and that deines the real-life mission of the model I built — Tamiya’s 1/72 scale P-47D razorback hunderbolt (No. 60769). Returning to England after missions over enemy territory during World War II, many pilots had to ditch in the English Channel — and despite Allied eforts, many pilots were lost after their aircraft came down. In England, the Air Forces Memorial at Runnymede lists more than 20,000 airmen killed or missing in action, many of them lost at sea. Enter the P-47s: Older, war-weary hunderbolts were itted with a life-raft container under each wing, and smoke bomb/loats to mark the location of downed crews so they could be rescued by watercraft. Raft containers

6 I began airbrushing with Floquil old silver, then used Alclad II metallic paints to produce different tones on various panels.

8 Upfront, I masked in preparation for painting the red, white, and blue cowling.

5 I vacuum-formed a new canopy and windshield, and used white glue to tack the kit parts in place to mask the cockpit.

7 More panels, more variations topside: Great fits between the fuselage and the wing made the bare-metal finish easy.

9 First color on the cowling is Testors gloss white enamel; I like it because it does not yellow. The white will brighten the red paint to come. www.FineScale.com

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10 I painted the antiglare panel Aeromaster faded olive drab, and the wingtips Floquil rail box yellow. Both paints are out of production, but there are several contemporary equivalents.

11 I made careful measurements before painting the forward cowl stripe with Floquil caboose red. Floquil B&O blue would follow.

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I hand-painted several small inspection panels with Testors steel, and lightly dragged a Prismacolor “B” drawing pencil over all panel lines to accent them.

Now you can really see the effect of the penciled panel lines and handpainted steel. This particular aircraft carried national insignia under both wings.

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I painted the life-raft containers with rail box yellow, caboose red, and Testors neutral gray, and added a couple of black stencils. Neutral gray was used on the belly tank, too. The wheel decals were in the kit.

Two of the wing guns were molded with the wing, while the two longer, inboard barrels were added from the kit parts. I used fine solder for brake lines on the landing gear. The stencils came from the Xtradecal sheet and my spares box.

Solder

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That white stenciling really jumps off the antiglare panel! I used Floquil reefer yellow on the tail planes, contrasting with rail box yellow, a deeper shade, on the wingtips.

My spares box yielded a smoke bomb/float assembly that replaced my earlier scratchbuild. Information is sketchy but indicates the tails were yellow and the bodies silver. A silver pencil produces chipping on the drop tank.

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With the addition of the propeller and the painted vacuum-formed canopy, the model was nearly complete.

Prop stencils and logos are from a Scale-Master sheet issued by the IPMS Spruce Goose Chapter in 1995. The P-47 had clear navigation light lenses, so I used stretched clear red and green sprue for the bulbs and filled the spaces with Microscale Kristal Klear.

$83,000 The price of a new P-47 in 1945 – Greg Goebel, www.airvectors.net

Hand-painted panels

Floquil rail box yellow

Penciled panel lines

Varied metal shades

Stencils

Floquil reefer yellow

Light weathering

This plane’s pursuit days may be behind, but there’s still work to be done. With a few finishing flourishes of dark washes and pastels, my SAR P-47 stands ready to roar out over the English Channel to aid downed fliers. FSM “War weary” designator

he Sturmhaubitze 42 (SdKfz 142/2, or StuH 42), was developed to upgrade the StuG III’s 7.5cm gun with the leFH18 10.5cm howitzer. Production was slated for January 1942, but only nine had been completed by October of that year. he irst production models were delivered in March 1943, by which time the StuH 42 had become essentially a StuG III Ausf G mounting a bigger gun. After riling through my stash and passing over several other kits, I came upon Dragon’s 1/35 scale StuH 42 (No. 9058). here were many more parts than needed in the box — a typical Dragon spare-parts bufet.

needed. I found an odd solution: a crutch that had rubber padding with a pattern I could use as a stamp. Choosing Aves Apoxie Sculpt (for its long working time and smooth grain), I had what I needed to model that stuf the Germans applied to thwart magnetic and sticky mines.

PE, then Zimmerit I igured this model could use a good dose of aftermarket parts to bring it up to scratch, and I already had Modelkasten tracks (No. SK-17 for PzKpfw III/IV). Photo-etch would play a part as well: he kit supplied PE for the schürzen (skirt armor) brackets, and I obtained three 26 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Voyager Model PE sets (No. PE35294 for general details, No. PE35109 for the fenders, and PEA076 for schürzen plates). One concern that kept me from starting this kit was waffle-pattern Zimmerit. I could have taken the easy way out and skipped the Zimmerit, but I thought it was

A razor saw separated the kit fenders from the front and rear hull, 1. After cleanup, I glued the superstructure to the lower hull and attached Voyager’s long fender brackets, 2. I usually put of attaching delicate PE until later, but these were necessary for parts location and Zimmerit. I also glued

1 The first step in installing metal fenders is to saw off the plastic ones.

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Though delicate photo-etch is best left until later, these parts are integral and must be fitted earlier.

I wish I had left off suspension details until after Zimmerit. Oh well.

The putty is thinned until the marks begin to show, indicating a uniform depth.

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Small-arms fire

Not-sosmall-arms fire

Styrene tubing

The right stamp makes Zimmerit easy. Keep the stamp wet to prevent sticking.

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The edge of a PE fret produces clean lines in the Zimmerit.

A soldering tip and motor tool introduced combat damage to the Zimmerit.

Ausfwerks Fenderbender aids in forming PE, especially long pieces.

on the shocks and bump stops, 3. Once all the major parts were on, it was time for Zimmerit. Tests with Apoxie Sculpt went well, but it was hard to achieve a consistent depth. So, I used a black felttip pen to mark areas to be covered, 4, outlining hatches and other putty-free places. I applied the putty with a inger, smoothed it with water, and used a straight razor and hobby knife blade to trowel it down until the pen marks showed faintly through the wet putty, 5. hat way, I knew just how thick it was. I made two sizes of stamps from rubber padding and styrene tube, 6, and, keeping the stamps wet with water, impressed the waffle pattern. Excess is easily trimmed away while the putty’s still wet. Once an area was stamped, I scored horizontal and vertical lines with a spare bit of PE fret, 7.

Don’t wait too long to score the putty, though; it can drag and distort after it starts to set. Also, don’t worry about neat lines and perfect patterns; it’s OK if it’s a bit wavy and crude. I depicted small-arms strikes using a pointed bit in a motor tool, and showed a couple of larger-caliber hits by melting a small area with a soldering tip and carving out the gouge with a burr bit in the motor tool, 8.

twisted and tore at them. However, other PE would still get super glue. I used Silly Putty to position parts on a slab of synthetic countertop material, then brushed them with lux. Touch a hot iron and a bit of solder to the joint and whoosh! it wicks up the solder and it’s done, 10. Once the fenders were together, I beat them up before attaching their brackets with super glue and lining them up on the hull, 11. Attaching the upper ighting compartment took a lot of iddling — the PE fenders weren’t speciically for this kit. he Voyager set comes with tiny PE nuts and bolts to dress up fenders and brackets, but they looked a little lat to me. So I shaved bolt heads from the belly pan of a Tamiya PzKpfw IV chassis and got some nice bolt and nut detail from the drive sprocket of the same kit, 12. I used

Bring on the PE Voyager’s fender set is well detailed and easy to work with. I used the Ausfwerks Fenderbender (No. 16-04) and lat-nosed pliers to shape all of the PE parts, 9. I planned to solder the larger pieces because I wanted to model damaged fenders, and super glue just wouldn’t hold while I

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.010" styrene rod

10 Silly Putty to hold the pieces, flux to prep them, a little solder, a hot solder tip, and voila!

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Soldering strengthens the fenders so they can take a beating without coming apart. Sliced bolts

Sliced bolts

Bolts sliced from a Tamiya PzKpfw IV looked better than their PE counterparts.

I used the PE machine-gun shield but scratchbuilt the mount and added more sliced bolts.

15 Scratchbuilt, spare-parts, and PE details accumulate at the end of the fenders. Bent and battered

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The Ausfwerks fire extinguisher looks great on its Voyager PE mount amidst other combinations of kit plastic and PE.

Various PE brackets, clasps, toolholders, and sundry other items are delicate touches that add a lot of detail overall.

Soldering helped the hangers hold on. The cupola is a mix of PE and plastic.

Voyager’s placement chart and a Squadron walkaround book to add all the nuts and bolts. Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) secured them to the brass. I skimped a bit on the bolt detail that would be hidden by the side skirts and tracks, but at the ends of the fenders I added them all. I added weld beads as needed; Zimmerit covers most of them otherwise. Welding on the roof plate needed enhancement, so I glued strips of .010" styrene in place, resoftened them with Testors liquid styrene cement, and textured them with a hobby knife, 12 and 13. he kit’s machine gun doesn’t resemble the real thing. It did come with some nice PE shields however, so I reluctantly scratchbuilt the required mount from bits of styrene and brass. I detailed the mount with more bolts shaved from a PzKpfw IV

belly pan and glued the kit’s shields on, 14. I made tow-cable clamps from the Voyager set and scratchbuilt brackets that hold the cables farther back on the fender. I only used full PE brackets for the empty tool holders; tools that are attached have only the PE locking handles added to the plastic parts, 15. he Voyager PE set includes everything a growing advanced-modeling addict needs. I was particularly proud of the ire extinguisher from Ausfwerks, used with the Voyager mounting bracket, 16. he PE brackets and clasps are cumulative improvements to the kit, 17. Soldering gave the kit’s PE schürzen hangers the strength they needed for me to damage them as I pleased, 18. I tried mightily to build Voyager’s gorgeous all-PE cupola, but my metal-working was not up

to it. So, I combined some of the PE with the plastic kit parts and added bits of styrene around the periscope lenses, along with some interior details from my spares box. he skirts are made from styrene with brackets of brass; I used some of the Voyager plates as templates, 19. Tiny rivet heads (again shaved from the underside of a Tamiya PzKpfw IV) are added to the outside faces and the brackets. he saukopf (sow’s head) mantlet looked a bit light for such a heavy casting, so I thickened it with Apoxie Sculpt and Mr. Surfacer, 20; the kit supplied a turnedmetal barrel. Whew! After two months of building and I could rock back in my chair and gaze at the most fragile-looking thing I had ever built.

28 FineScale Modeler July 2016

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I used the Voyager PE skirts as templates to cut them from styrene sheet.

Upfront, Apoxie Sculpt and Mr. Surfacer fatten up the saukopf mantlet. Sliced plastic bolts are added to the armor skirt.

A dark base coat serves as an overall pre-shade for the vehicle…

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… providing depth beneath a coat of dunkelgelb …

… while successively lighter shades of dunkelgelb add further relief and contrast.

The base colors look a little bright for German tricolor camo, but washes will darken them.

Whitewashing with Tamiya flat white; this coat was preceded by hairspray …

… so it could be selectively scrubbed off to look rough.

Oooo, painting!

yellow. I also thinned each layer more than Painting is my favorite part of modeling. the previous one to help blend the layers. Now I could really get down to business. he efect is subtle, but the relief becomes After spraying a coat of Tamiya ine noticeable after several passes, 23. I searched the Internet and books before white primer from a can, I mixed dark brown, chocolate brown, and dark gray for a choosing a 33/33/33 camoulage pattern, 24. (he numbers indidark brown base, making sure to cate each color covers get complete coverage for a draabout 33% of the vehimatic pre-shading that will add cle.) For the red brown, I depth to recesses, 21. After this dried, I mixed up lightened Tamiya NATO a mid-tone dunkelgelb (dark brown with the lightest Date that yellow) and sprayed that overdunkelgelb mix. For green, The all, without forcing it into I used Vallejo light green Washington recesses, so the shadowing cut with the same dunkelPost remained, 22. gelb color; that kept the reported I continued to add tones similar and prevented Syrian rebels increasingly lighter tones of a chalky appearance. dunkelgelb, mixing in Now I started thinking operating an Tamiya buf and desert about ilters, and this is where StuH 42

May 21, 2015

my planned paint job changed. I have done “dot ilters,” blending multicolored dots of artist’s oils over broad areas, but I wasn’t sure how that would work over waffle Zimmerit. So, I decided to apply ilters one color at a time. It was a mess! My ilters were either too light or too thick, and the result was a milky haze, 25 — ruined, in my opinion. I wasn’t about to start over. How could I cover this up? Whitewash! I used the hairspray technique — applying hairspray, overspraying white, then scrubbing some of it of. First came a coat of clear gloss. hen I sprayed a couple of thin coats of cheap hairspray, drying each one with a blow dryer. Next came Tamiya lat white, 26. I keep the white paint thin and spray it on as dry as possible; too much or too wet and the www.FineScale.com

… and drops of fixer on the dry pigment help the muck go with the flow.

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Singed canvas, white ash, and an empty water can tell the story of a torched StuH.

Woodland Scenics talus and bits of brick and wood cover the groundwork.

Airbrushed colors bring the tonality back to muddy earth.

hairspray will crack like desert mud. I slowly built up the white, working more of it into areas where it would be protected, going lighter on exposed/worn surfaces. I used various damp (not wet) brushes to scrub of the white where it would be worn of by trees, rain, or crewmen clambering over it, 27. Once it was good and scrufy, I sprayed another thin, clear coat. Now it was back to ilters — but I went a lot lighter, worked more deliberately, and chose the colors more carefully, using everything from dusty brown to dark purple-brown artist’s oils, 28. I added paint chipping with dry-brushing, a ine-point brush, and colored pencils, concentrating on exposed edges or worn areas and using colors ranging from primer red to almost black, 29. I added a lot of dark, muddy colors to the fender tops and horizontal surfaces to

represent mud that had been thrown up or tracked on by the crew, then washed around by rain and melting snow. I added further fatigue by applying a lot of rust to the thinner sheet-metal areas. Also, I wanted the stowage rack around the engine deck to look like a ield it, so I painted it as bare, rusty steel: a base coat of dark brown, followed by rusty artist’s oil colors thinned with lighter luid and Mig pigments, 30. To prep the lower hull for mud, I mixed a thin, dark slurry of Mig pigments and lowed it onto the whole undercarriage, 31. More pigments — Russian earth, dark earth, and dry mud — showed caked mud down low. To give it a lumpy texture, I tilted the vehicle on its side and spooned the pigment mix where I wanted it, 32. hen I used an eyedropper to low small amounts of paint thinner mixed with clear gloss enamel onto the dry heaps, 33.

Careful: Too much liquid will loat the pigment and make it into a slurry. Use as little liquid as possible; let the dry pigment soak up the thinner so it keeps the texture. When it all dries, you can enhance the efect by selectively applying dark artist’s oils to represent wetter mud. I treated running gear the same way.

30 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Singed stowage I built basic shapes from foam blocks and spare parts, wrapped it all with kitchen foil, then painted with acrylics, shaded with oils, and weathered with Mig pigments. (I made surrender lags the same way.) Furthering the knocked-out theme, I made parts of the stowage looked burned or singed, 34. I tore away the tarp with tweezers and painted the edges to represent burned fabric, sprinkling white and black pigments about for ash and setting it with thinner. I left an

Meet Kenneth Childres The son of an avid Civil War historian, Kenneth spent his childhood stomping around long-forgotten battlefields searching for relics. This early interest in history, combined with the thrill of seeing models displayed in a library, sparked his lifelong hobby.

Sources Apoxie Sculpt, www.avesstudio.com

A member of the Central Arkansas Scale Modelers, he lives in Sherwood, modeling mostly armor but dabbling in the occasional “wingy thingy.” Kenneth likes building straight from the box as well as going deluxe with aftermarket and scratchbuilding.

open water can on the rear deck to suggest it had been used to douse a ire.

Display hrough the whole build I’d been trying to igure out how to display the model. As I developed the knocked-out theme, my idea shifted to a single crewman surrendering his disabled mount. his could be dramatic yet conveyed in a small space. I settled on depicting a rail yard in early spring, 1945. I cut a pine plaque into a kidney shape that barely encompasses the scene and glued Dragon railroad ties and tracks down with 5-minute epoxy. I used a table sander to smooth the edges and trim the tracks to the base’s edge. A mix of Celluclay, static grass, small rocks, real dirt, plaster, and Elmer’s glue covered the base. Woodland Scenics railroad talus was applied to the rail bed. I broke up some bricks and scraps of wood to embed in the wet groundwork, 35. he whole thing was painted with DecoArt Americana asphaltum craft paint, my favorite color for wet mud. I dry-brushed the railroad stones with various browns and grays, following with dark washes that toned down the efect, 36. Muddy areas were airbrushed with gloss clear; I added accents of standing water with a brush and PFM. he tracks were painted with rusty browns and grays and washed with Mig pigment rust colors. he rails’ crowns were burnished with graphite and a silver pencil, 37. he melting snow is a mixture of Woodland Scenics snow and PFM. At the last minute, I whipped up some loose railroad spikes and track plates from styrene; I used to see junk like that lying on the ground around the tracks in south Arkansas where I grew up, and I thought it would be a nice touch.

The figure After due consideration, I chose the wounded guy from Jaguar’s “German Nurse

The Jaguar figure got a Hornet head and Dragon hands for a customized pose.

Fattened saukopf

PE/scratchbuilt machine-gun mount Ausfwerks extinguisher

Damaged fender Modelkasten track

Distressed whitewash Styrene-sheet armor skirts

Pine base Stamped Zimmerit

PE tool clamp

Flying a white flag, this StuH 42 has come to the end of its fighting days.

Dressing Wounded” set (No. 63020), 38. I substituted a Hornet head for the look I wanted and resculpted the sleeve of his left arm with Apoxie Sculpt. Both hands were replaced by Dragon Gen2 hands. After airbrushing the igure with acrylics, I shaded it

with artist’s oils and muddied it up with Mig pigments to blend in with the base and tank colors. I enjoyed being able to compress a dramatic piece into a small vignette. I think it works — but then, I am a bit biased! FSM www.FineScale.com

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FSM CONTEST GALLERY

Star Wars We asked readers from all over the globe to submit their best Star Wars models and were overwhelmed with submissions. After many tough choices and plenty of “oohs” and “ahhs,” we finally narrowed it down. Here are the 12 best models, comprised of our editors’ picks and readers’ choices. The Force is strong with these builders.

More at www.FineScale.com To view more of our readers’ Star Wars models, go to FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.

▶ RAYMOND POTTER

HOLLYWOOD, FLORIDA “Called a mere plot device by director Irvin Kershner, (Boba) Fett is the object of much adoration by fans of the Star Wars universe,” says Raymond. “Why? The costume is cool as hell!” He went to town, customizing Screamin’s 1/4 scale kit with a scratchbuilt gun nozzle and flamethrower, and actual metal spikes made of nails on the boots. The cool chipped and layered paint was achieved by building successive layers of different color over masks, then peeling away masked areas. 32 FineScale Modeler July 2016

▲ DOUG SCOTT

THORNTON, COLORADO Doug built with Revell Germany’s 1/2256 scale Venator-class Republic Star Destroyer. He cut open the main hangar doors and cargo doors inside, and scratchbuilt the hangar. He added lights and a lot of greeblies.

◀

KEN MINETTI RONKONKOMA, NEW YORK

Fine Molds’ 1/144 scale Millennium Falcon is Ken’s first “small” model. It is fully lighted with LEDs and fiber optics. The base is made out of a mountain from a decorative holiday village.

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA “After sitting in a box for 35 years, this kit finally sees the light of day,” says David. “I wanted to see if a good paint job and extra details could overcome the known shortcomings.” He engraved lines and added tiny 3-D printed parts to the feet, and Plastruct U-channels to the legs. He finished with Vallejo acrylics and washes along with Ammo of Mig Jimenez streaking effects. White pigments dirtied with gray washes became snow in front of an arctic landscape photo. ▶ WYATT BRATSCH

LIBBY, MONTANA The space camo on MPC/Ertl’s 1/63 scale X-wing was airbrushed with Testors Model Master aircraft interior black enamel. Wyatt switched to Tamiya acrylic flat white, clear red, and clear orange. “I starved the airbrush by pinching and releasing the air line to create a spatter effect” he says. “Using a stencil, I created the star bursts by shooting at different angles, making it a ‘ghost’ against the starry backdrop of the galaxy.” 34 FineScale Modeler July 2016

▲ JEFF POLLIZZOTTO

LEVITTOWN, NEW YORK

▼ KEVIN DOVE

This is Fine Molds’ 1/72 scale Star Wars X-wing and TIE Fighter kit mounted on a Death Star trench diorama. Jeff built the kits out of the box and painted them with Tamiya acrylics. He weathered with artist’s oils and pastels.

Kevin brought MPC’s 1/72 scale Millennium Falcon, originally released in 1979, up to the current standards. Smuggled inside the freighter are two 9-volt batteries, 2' of 3mm fiber optics, six 5mm LEDs, two resistors, roughly 3' of wiring, and a switch disguised as a greeblie on the left rear side wall. The result is an illuminated cockpit, two headlamps on the front mandibles, and beautifully blue-hued engine exhaust. Photo by Kenneth Claytor.

WHITE PLAINS, MARYLAND

FSM CONTEST GALLERY

▲ MIKE WALSTON

▼ BERNARD SZUKIEL

SARASOTA, FLORIDA

OSTROŁĘKA, POLAND

“This just proves that I watch way too many dinosaur-digging documentaries on the History and Discovery channels,” Mike says. He turned AMT/Ertl’s 1/100 scale AT-AT into a paleontological/archaeological find with futuristic diggers unearthing a historic remnant of the galactic civil war seen in Star Wars. “I started with a 15" x 12" plaque, burrowing out sections of it with a motor tool for the model parts to fit into,” he says. “I modified those parts by opening up all the hatches, then arranged them in an appropriately bone-strewn pattern.” Additional details and figures came from MPC’s Star Wars Rebel Base and Battle of Hoth Action Scene kits.

Bernard spent four years scratchbuilding his 1/36 scale Millennium Falcon. Patience and a little clever photo editing led to a work of sci-fi art.

36 FineScale Modeler July 2016

▲ SCOTT HASTINGS

BURNABY, BRITISH COLUMBIA Scott was inspired by a photo of the filming of Luke’s X-wing crash site on Dagobah in The Empire Strikes Back. After building Bandai’s 1/72 scale X-wing, he sank it into a swamp of silicone colored with artist’s oils. He added scaffolding from model railroad girders and spotlights made from oil cans and LEDs. The actors and crew are a mishmash of 1/72 scale army and HO train figures.

◀

NICHOLAS SAGAN CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

Nicholas detailed JPG Productions’ 1/48 scale TIE Bomber with an interior and pilot from AMT/Ertl’s TIE Fighter. The model’s LEDs are powered by a 9-volt battery hidden under a magnetic cap in one of the tubs. www.FineScale.com

37

READER GALLERY

▲ DANIEL ROTHENBERGER

SHELBURNE, VERMONT HobbyBoss’ 1/48 scale M4A3E8 Sherman was the parts donor Daniel needed to model a Chilean M60 Sherman; a resin M60 Sherman conversion set from Tank Workshop also helped. Daniel built his own gun, smoke dischargers, antenna mounts, and bustle rack, and gussied up the tank with Eduard photo-etched details. The figures are from a CMK Vietnam helicopter crew set.

▲ PAUL OOI

EDEN PRAIRIE, MINNESOTA The Russo-Japanese War of 1904-05 is the occasion of Paul’s 1/72 scale gun emplacement, with Pit-Road’s 28cm howitzer central to the scene. The figures wear Tamiya paint and Vallejo washes highlighted by dry-brushed artist’s oils. 38 FineScale Modeler July 2016

SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world. Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or burn it all on a disc and mail it to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work!

◀ JIM BEAVER

HATBORO, PENNSYLVANIA Jim painted Moebius Models’ 1/8 scale Iron Man Mk.VI with a mix of Tamiya clear red and flat red, Vallejo gold, and Alclad II lacquers for bare metal. He referred to screen shots from The Avengers movie rather than the kit instructions. “This was the first time I did LEDs on a model. That part was tricky but fun,” he says.

▶ MICHAL SWINIARSKI

BRENTWOOD, ESSEX, ENGLAND Michal says he built Italeri’s 1/72 scale UH-34J as a “comeback exercise” about two years ago to show it in the Vietnam War as part of the U.S. Marine Corps’ Operation Shufly. After Vallejo primer, he painted with Mr. Hobby field green. Patches of yellow and ochre artist’s oils and Abteilung 502 oils varied and weathered the paint. AK Interactive streaking grime and chipping with a silver Prismacolor pencil further distressed the finish. In 2015, Michal’s chopper placed first in a contest on Italeri’s Facebook page. ◀ HAROLD STUDDARD

ROME, GEORGIA A masterful touch enabled Harold to airbrush the lozenge camouflage on the aft fuselage of Roden’s 1/32 scale Albatros D.III with Humbrol and Testors enamels. He rigged the plane with brass wire.

Creating a realistic small-scale 2½-ton truck is made easier with photo-etched parts and excellent painting and finishing.

A

club member’s dare led me to start building small-scale armor, and now it’s my preferred genre. Certainly the excellent 1/72 scale kits from Dragon, Academy, and Italeri are helping stir my love of pint-sized vehicles. Not only do these new kits look great, but it takes me less time to complete a project. While most are nice straight out of the box, sometimes a little photo-etch (PE) goes a long way to improving their look. Such was the case with Academy’s 1/72 U.S. 2½-ton 6 x 6 cargo truck, the Deuce-and-a-half (No. 13402), also known as CCKW by the U.S. Army. I was tired of assembling running gear and tracks, so I opted for a truck. Academy’s kit is nicely molded, but I added Eduard’s PE set (No. 22-087) for GMC 21⁄2-ton 6 x 6, made for this kit. I began by comparing the instruction sheets. I like to know where all the PE parts go (at least the ones I decide to use) and what, if any, of the plastic needs to be removed to accommodate the PE. Let me 40 FineScale Modeler July 2016

emphasize that I said, “at least the ones I decide to use.” I have never used every single PE part, because the plastic parts sometimes are as good as the PE meant to replace them. Sometimes the PE is too small and iddly, or just looks lat. It’s your project; use what you want. I didn’t use all the PE this time. As I examine the plastic parts, I mark any needing alterations on the instructions.

I note changes in pen, then highlight my notes with yellow marker. As you build, this helps you see what PE needs to be added in a step and what plastic (if any) needs altering. his may seem like a lot of efort, but it will save you time later — take my word.

Interior detailing I started with the chassis and went with the winch option, 1. he kit has a nice engine. Unfortunately there’s no easy way to open the hood. So the engine was assembled as is and glued in place. It won’t be seen. Next, I added other chassis items, like the drive shaft and exhaust, before adding PE, 2. I hollowed out the exhaust pipe’s end, 3. Most of the PE will upgrade the truck’s chassis: spare-tire mount, bumpers, fuel-

1 I included the winch option on the truck, which also features a nicely detailed engine.

4 Small-scale models are delicate, and aligning the tires wasn’t easy. It’s not perfect, but passable.

2 Next, I added the main chassis items, like drive shafts and exhaust, before adding PE pieces.

5 If you want a .50-caliber gun atop the cab, you’ll need to cut a hole. Luckily, Academy scribed a line inside the roof.

tank straps and cap, and more. Punched pedals, steering wheel, and instrument plastic discs were added as rivets and panel. It also includes a rile holder, but I mounting hardware. A lever for the winch left it of as it interfered with the cab’s it. I was made with copper wire and plastic also scratchbuilt interior door panels with stock. window cranks, door levers, and windshield he tires are nicely done, but they need pivot gear; all were made from sheet plastic care in mounting to make sure they all sit stock and strip. on the ground — no “loaters.” Getting the Part K7 can be glued to the cab loor, tires aligned was a futile efort, but I did my Part J35 (which attaches to the seat), allowbest, 4. ing detailing to be completed, 7. he kit’s gearshift levers were grossly oversized, so I Next, I tackled the cab. I wanted a .50-caliber gun mount on the roof, so I had made new ones with brass wire and epoxy putty. he putty was rolled into tiny balls to open a hole to accommodate it, 5. Academy helps by scribing a line inside the and added as shift knobs, impaled on the cab roof. Still, be careful not to open it too brass wire while still slightly soft. I also much. Cut it out just short of the scribed added a hand brake made from sheet styline by repeatedly scoring it with a sharp rene and left of all of the clear parts to blade, then carve away the rest a bit at a facilitate painting. Eduard’s PE provides time. Eduard’s set provides a PE nice transparencies to part to inish the area and gives a replace Academy’s lip around the roof opening, 6. thick clear parts. The original GMC I deviated from the kit CCKW Deuce-andinstructions, building the cab Exterior detailing a-half served in Eduard provides a nice without attaching Part K7 (the World War II and pair of parts to replace cab bottom and front fenders). Korea. It was first Since the cab is so visible, I the kit’s headlight guards. detailed it. hat meant leaving hese are a bit tricky to built in General the completed upper cab of bend and fold, but well Motors’ Yellow of K7 until later to paint and worth the efort. he PE Truck and Coach inish more easily. Don’t door handles were added to plant in Pontiac, worry, it all its great! punched laminated plastic Mich., and later Eduard’s PE set prodiscs and then glued to the at a Chevrolet vided nice items for the doors. Eduard parts 56 and cab: gas, brake and clutch 57 (louvered hood sides) were plant in St. Louis.

3 With the undercarriage assembled, I hollowed out the exhaust pipe’s tip.

6 With the cab’s roof opened, I installed the Eduard PE lip around the roof opening to provide a finished look.

not used because, frankly, they add little to the model and would have required considerable efort. I did add hood clamps using PE from the spares box. I ran copper wire to the headlamps (the opposite ends later fed into the hood’s sides) and punched plastic rivets to complete the hood/cab assembly, 8. I then added the .50-caliber turret-ring mount and supports to the truck’s bed. he bed’s benches beneited from PE parts for diagonal support legs. Again, these were iddly to bend and shape, but they look great installed. he inside of the bed’s front (Part K23) is marred by four horrendous ejector-pin marks. Fortunately, these were an exact match for one of my Waldron punches, so discs were punched, glued in place, and sanded lush, eliminating the marks, 9. An array of PE followed. In place of the kit’s mudlaps, I used the more in-scale PE laps and supports. First you must ill in the depressions under the bed (Part K12) provided for the plastic laps. Epoxy putty illed these areas nicely. hen be sure to glue the PE laps on securely or they’ll break of, 10. About 12 PE tie-down hooks go on the outside of the bed’s sides. hese extremely small details are a big enhancement. he PE tool carrier and tools were folded together, assembled, and added to the bed’s left front corner, 11. hen I drilled out the kit’s .50-caliber gun and enhanced www.FineScale.com

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7 Next, I glued interior pieces together. New gearshift levers were made with brass wire with epoxy putty for the round knobs.

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I also added punched plastic rivets to the hood/cab assembly before turning my attention to the truck bed.

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On the bed’s underside, I filled the plastic flaps’ depressions with epoxy putty and added PE replacements. Be sure to glue them on well.

Adding the PE tool carrier and tools to the bed’s left front corner creates more interest and detail.

it with Eduard PE. It rivals the detail of 1/35 scale .50-caliber guns, 12. But to avoid damaging it, I left it of until after painting and inal assembly. I also made a handle for the .50-caliber ring mount from plastic stock and copper wire. Finally, the PE gate strap and tiny PE gate-securing chains were added, 13.

brush into the mix and touch it to the demarcation lip between the tire and wheel. Capillary action draws the black around the wheel, creating a sharp break between the olive drab wheel and lat black tire. hen I hand-paint the rest of the tire lat black. Cab interior details were hand-painted using various shades of khaki, olive green, and similar colors. he tool carrier and its contents were hand-painted, along with the .50-caliber gun, 14. I followed with a couple coats of undiluted Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM), using a brush to reach all areas where decals would go. When the PFM was dry, I applied the decals and let them dry for a couple days before brushing on a inal coat of PFM to seal them. I let it all cure for a few days. To prepare for weathering, and to blend the previous painting steps, I liberally airbrushed the truck with Testors Dullcote (thinned 60/40, Dullcote/thinner). I allowed the truck to dry for at least two weeks before I began weathering.

Painting and finishing I mounted the components on handles before airbrushing them with my own base mix — a combo of Testors Model Master Italian dark brown (No. 2111) and lat black (No. 1749). he result is the color of a Hershey bar. I let it dry for a day before airbrushing thin layers of Humbrol olive drab (No. 66) on panels and component centers, leaving a hint of the brown showing through. his created depth, preventing a toylike look. Next, I misted the model with olive drab, again letting some brown show through. I followed with a thin mix of Humbrol French artillery green (No. 179, no longer available). I’m careful airbrushing to the centers of various areas and panels, especially the hood and roof. his efect is meant to be subtle, but bold enough to survive the weathering process to come. Tires were painted lat black after the wheels were dry. I ind it’s easiest to mix a thin batch of lat black, then dip a pointy 42 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Weathering I started weathering with a pinwash, basically raw umber artist’s oil and plain thinner. I applied it with a pointy

In the bed, I added a turret-ring for the machine gun and plugged mold-release pin marks with discs created by a Waldron punch.

I drilled out the .50-caliber machine gun and added Eduard PE parts to make this a focal point on the model.

brush to recesses and around the base of protruding details. Apply the wash to small areas, then let it dry for 5-10 minutes. Next, using clean thinner and a clean brush, blend the pinwash’s edges out into surrounding areas, softening the demarcation line between wash and paint and dirtying the overall inish. Let it dry for 24 hours. Next I dry-brushed Humbrol dark earth (No. 29) over the model, heavier on the bottom and going easier the higher I went. It’s important to let this step dry at least 72 hours. Highlighting raised areas was next. I brushed thinned French artillery green lightened with pale stone (No. 121) on hood louvers, hubcaps, lug nuts, bed side posts, hooks, handles, edges, and more. You develop an eye for highlighting over time and it creates depth in the inish. Also, using a thinned mix creates more of a glaze than a heavy color application, allowing the intensity to build up gradually. If you don’t like how it looks, use a brush dampened with clean thinner to remove it, then redo it. A good cured coat of Dullcote (a lot of drying time) will stand up to this Number of CCKWs made abuse. To add a bit more from 1941-45.

562,750

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Finally, I added tiny PE gate straps and chains to wrap up the bed’s PE detailing.

There’s so much olive drab that hand-painting the tools in the carrier makes them stand out.

Moving back to the underside, I created stains and leaks by using thinned oils to add realism.

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For the dirty windshield I brushed on a mix of Dullcote and Humbrol dark earth and wiped it 10 minutes later with thinner and a clean brush before adding PE wipers.

Next, I wrapped a fine chain around the bumper. I painted it with Humbrol track color and weathered it with diluted raw sienna artist’s oils.

Last, I added cargo (all glued together) to the bed and stenciled it with a fine brush and flat black. Now I was really finished.

wear, I created slight scratches and chips to high-impact areas using Humbrol olive drab darkened with black. To give them age variation, some areas received additional dry-brushing with dark earth. I also weathered the underside much as I had done the top. Exhaust parts received a base coat of Humbrol track color (No. 173). I then dabbed them with Model Master leather (No. 1736) and rust (No. 1785). Various stains and leaks were created using thinned artist’s oils such as burnt sienna, raw umber, and black, 15.

Final assembly Once the components dried, I carefully assembled them, gluing the cab’s bottom to the chassis, then the cab’s top. Everything was given a inal coat of Dullcote to help blend it all. Clear parts were installed (windshield and rear window) using Dullcote as an adhesive. To weather the windshield, I brushed on a mix of Dullcote and dark earth. After 10 minutes, I used a clean brush dampened with clean thinner to carefully remove the mix from the windshield, brushing crescents to correspond with the PE wipers’ size. hen wipers were applied; it’s a quick and easy efect, 16. Next, I glued on the cargo bed and brushed on Dullcote to hide shiny glue

Ultimately this Deuce-and-a-half (nearly actual size here) looks as realistic as many in larger scale.

marks. A ine chain was applied to the front bumper and base-coated with track color and washed with diluted raw sienna artist’s oils, 17. he .50-caliber gun was added to its mount, and a new rearview mirror was added to the driver’s side. I made this by adding the two ends of Part J5 to a piece of ine brass wire. I later added cargo to the bed, using stuf from my parts stash, a combination of CMK, Verlinden, and Caliber 72 parts.

hese were cleaned, assembled, glued together, base-coated, and carefully painted as one unit. I glued it all together irst before painting because the dark base coat hides in the nooks, giving it more depth. Some stenciling was applied using thinned lat black, a ine brush, and a steady hand, 18. he end result is a ine Deuce-and-ahalf, thanks to scratchbuilt and PE parts and a great little kit. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Creating a sexy

COBRA Working over an old kit to reflect a Vietnam-era Bell AH-1 attack copter /// FLOYD S. WERNER JR.

hat’s the sexiest aircraft ever? My vote, the Bell AH-1 Cobra — sleek, fast, and armed to the teeth. he Cobra was a joy to ly and a lot of fun to shoot. Armed helicopters didn’t start in Vietnam but in the 1950s, when the British and French added guns to their copters. It wasn’t until the turbine-powered UH-1 Huey that armed helicopters came into their own. However, the Huey was slow and vulnerable. So Bell developed the Sioux Scout, a modiied OH-13, as an attack helicopter, which eventually led to landing an Army contract for 1,100 AH-1G Cobras. he Cobra proved to be everything the U.S. Army needed in Vietnam. Its single gun turret was soon replaced by a two-station turret capable of carrying the GAU-2B/A Minigun and the M129 40mm grenade launcher. he turret could carry one of each, or two Miniguns. he Minigun could ire up to 4,000 rounds per minute (really impressive to see the lame when you shoot this baby). 44 FineScale Modeler July 2016

he stub wings could carry either a 7.62mm M18A1 gun pod or seven- or 19-shot 2.75" rocket pods. Later, the XM-35 20mm Vulcan gun system could be hung under the left wing. he ability to change armament made Cobra versatile. he single-engine Cobra fought with the Army until the 1980s. Cobras have fought in every conlict the U.S. has been involved in since Vietnam.

The plan I wanted to build the best-looking 1/32 scale Cobra that I could with all the means at my disposal and some I had to develop. I became interested in building a Vietnam-era Cobra after talking with Chris Miller from Cobra Company and Joseph Osbourne of Fireball Modelworks. I also read Snake Pilot by Randy Zahn, which provided plenty of inspiration, as did Snake Driver! by Bob Rosenburgh. Conveniently, Joseph had created decals to match Zahn’s Cobra, Cyndi Ann. I was ready to start. here are no modern kits of this Vietnam veteran. I used a 1970s Revell kit and an updated rebox of that kit by Monogram. he latter has an additional sprue with new parts, such as an anti-collision light, FM antenna, taillights, and new

ECU inlet

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The Cobra Company cockpit fits great in the fuselage. I also added an ECU inlet, made from styrene, on the pylon.

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Here’s another angle showing the ECU inlet and super fit of the resin cockpit.

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The engine’s mount and transmission are incorrect, though you won’t see much once installed. I wish I had removed more of the engine for the Fireball resin conversion part.

I painted the pylon’s interior. Note the exhaust section has been cut to prepare it for the Fireball part. The clips are holding a strip of styrene for added support on the belly.

rocket pods. he kit represents one of the earliest prototypes, not a production version, so adjustments were needed.

transmission is installed. Paint the transmission dark gull gray and add a burnt umber wash. he fuselage around the transmission is zinc chromate or dark green, 5. The cockpit I added the engine access panel before I With its large greenhouse you can see the joined the fuselage halves. he it was not interior plainly, making Cobra Company’s great. I backed the join with styrene sheet cockpit essential. he resin set contains 11 and illed with super glue and accelerator, 6. sprues with everything needed for the inte- Once I had a good join, I scribed the correct lines for the engine doors. rior as well as a few exterior parts. he To make the ECU (Environmental cockpit is keyed to the model and its perControl Unit), I opened a rectangular panel fectly, 1 and 2. I painted the interior dark gull gray with black panels and highlights. in front of the upper pylon. I backed it with A wash of burnt umber artist’s oil and drya channel-shaped styrene plug formed to brushing the area silver replicates wear. create a good join and added it to one fuseI used a punch-and-die set to produce lage side. Don’t forget to add the Cobra instrument faces from spare decals, 3. Seats Company ECU exhaust on the left side. were painted dark gull gray, but the pads After adding lead weights under the were painted olive drab on the outer porcockpit to ensure this wasn’t a tail-sitter, 7, I glued the fuselage tion with light green “mesh” together. I illed the areas. Seat belts were of-white seam with super glue Apple Barrel craft paint, and accelerator. detailed with silver for buckles. I used Dymo labeling Number of The fuselage tape as a guide to scribe Build the engine and transmost of the fuselage. operational mission before joining the he fuselage’s shape at hours logged fuselage halves, 4. Leave of the exhaust is not accurate. by Cobras the lower actuating rods here are air delectors in during the (parts 25, 21, 26, and 22); the kit. Fireball solves this they are invisible once the with a resin exhaust panel. Vietnam War.

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3 I added decals to the Cobra Company instrument panel and finished it with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM). I had to clean up the side walls a little to make it fit.

6 The removable engine panel is incorrect for any Cobra, and fit is poor, but a little super glue and it fairs in easily. I used Mr. Surfacer 500 to check for fit.

Just scribe along the panel line for the engine door, and then the horizontal line back to the tail boom. he clear nose cone didn’t it well, but super glue and accelerator work wonders. I replaced the pitot tube with tubing. Cobra Company provided extra pieces, including a vented compartment cover by the tail boom, a stifener panel next to the battery cover (not always installed), and other odds and ends. I also made and cast the oil reservoir vent atop the doghouse. Leave of the turret: One from Cobra Company will be added later.

Tail boom, wings, armament I sanded the top of the in to eliminate the bulge that represents a taillight that wasn’t on production copters. he angle of attack on the kit wings is too great. I applied two-part epoxy to the slightly recessed area on the fuselage and sanded it lat, 8. hen I drilled holes to mount the wings. I aligned the front with the transmission door and set the angle with the lower access panel. Cyndi Ann had a large XM-35 20mm gun system on the left inboard pylon, and all the accessories associated with it. It also carried a 19-shot XM-159 pod opposite the cannon, and two XM-158 seven-shot www.FineScale.com

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7 Extra Tamiya ball bearings were added to the nose to keep the copter sitting on its skids.

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8 The red lines show where there should be panel lines, and also the wing’s angle. I used Apoxie Sculpt to fill the wing’s recessed area.

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9 The XM-158s are scratchbuilt from brass tubing and parts from an MRC UH-1C, while the Cobra Company resin pods do not have fronts on, yet.

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Cobra Company’s XM-35 gun system is impressive. Here the cheek ammo containers are mounted, as are deflector panels.

The wing includes Eduard PE and scratchbuilt details, while the pads were made from styrene punched with a Waldron set.

I used my motor tool to make rough cuts in the main-rotor pitch horns, adding visual interest to this overlooked area.

pods on the outboard pylons, 9. here were two 7.62mm guns in the turret. Cobra Company’s XM-35 system is a complete resin set; the 19-shot rocket pods also come from Cobra, 10. he XM-158 pods are not available in 1/32 scale, so I used 1/35 scale pods from MRC’s Huey kit. I enlarged the pods with brass rod tubes, drilling holes in the kit part to make room. Eduard provides sway braces and pads for the pylons, 11. Cobra Company also supplies the Minigun and 40mm grenade launcher with its interior set, but Cyndi Ann had two Miniguns. What to do? Eduard’s PE set actually has barrel clamps for the Miniguns. I found .005" tubing in my supply bin that it after I opened the holes with a drill bit. hen I made them the same size.

drivetrain set with a better crosshead. I only added a triangular pitch horn to the hub and aligned the pitch-change mechanism.

and painted recessed and shadow areas with a thinned coat to hint at shadows. he wings got the same treatment. Next I masked the fuselage and painted the tail boom with Gunze olive drab. he 19-shot pods were painted a diferent olive drab; I used Polly Scale. A lot of streaks were added to relect rain discoloration. Even if a helicopter was pristine, the pods could be beat to hell (and vice versa). he XM-158s were sprayed with Alclad II gray primer followed by Alclad II pale burnt metal. he tubes were sprayed with Model Master Metalizer burnt metal. After the guns were primed with the same gray, I coated them with Model Master gunmetal. his was dry-brushed silver to show wear. For wear on the rotor, I abraded the surface with sandpaper and painted the center light ghost gray. his was masked and the blade sprayed with Alclad II primer, followed by Alclad II stainless steel. Once it was dry, I sprayed on Alclad II clear base, then a coat of Testors zinc chromate primer. his was followed with Polly Scale. Once dry, the yellow end was primed again with Testors zinc and inally Model Master lat yellow enamel. Using MasterCasters’ sanding sticks, I lightly wore through the paint layers, sanding in the direction of rotation, front to back. If I wore through on the front half of the blade,

Main and tail rotor blades he main rotor blades looked good, but there was room for improvement. he pitch-change horns look plain and are missing their recessed areas. I used my motor tool to hollow these out, 12, and spread liquid cement in the area to level everything. I also added white Telon strips as debris delectors (not provided), and added a decal to represent the data plate. Monogram’s tail rotor represents the Vietnam-era rotor, but I didn’t like the crosshead. Cobra Company has a UH-1 46 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Time to paint It was time to camoulage my Cobra. he shark mouth is a cool AH-1 feature; mine had it in Desert Storm. I painted Cyndi Ann’s mouth with Tamiya semigloss black, then masked the mouth with Avery label masks by Fireball. hey didn’t it well, mostly a function of the compound curves. I had to snip a bit to ensure the mask was secure and would not let paint under. I sprayed and masked the orange panels on the nose, tail, and upper surface of the horizontal tails. To match Vietnam Cobras, I used a new bottle of Testors Model Master olive drab and added a bunch of yellow and a little white to the bottle until it was full and I was satisied with the color. Cobra tail booms must have been supplied by someone other than Bell. hey were darker than the fuselage. So I painted the booms with Gunze olive drab after I’d pre-shaded with Model Master lat black. he olive drab mix looked perfect. I then added white and a bunch of thinner to the paint cup and made vertical weathering lines. I also lightly sprayed the model’s top to re-create sun bleaching. hen I took another bottle of the unmodiied olive drab

Meet Floyd S. Werner Jr. Floyd has built models since he was 7 and is a consistent national-award winner. He retired from the U.S. Army after 21 years of flying Cobras and Kiowa Warriors, including tours in Iraq, Bosnia, Korea, and Germany, and is now a

Baltimore Police sworn flight officer chasing bad guys in copters. He also runs Werner’s Wings, a producer of aftermarket resin and decals, and is the author of OH-58D Kiowa Warrior (Squadron). He has been married to his high school

sweetheart, Yvonne, for 34 years, and they have four grandchildren. His passions continue to be his family, friends, helicopters, models, and airplanes, especially the Bf 109 and his beloved AH-1 Cobra. His motto: Modeling Is Fun!

Dental floss tie-downs

Two hinges added

Dull = in-service look

Hook made from wire

Lips, teeth painted over

Fragile shark mouth decals

I brushed Model Master steel on the leading edge. I used 4000-grit Micro Mesh ilm to inish it. hese blades look real! Finally, I painted the main rotor mast Alclad II pale gold. his represents the mast’s anodized color. he exhaust was given a coat of Model Master Metalizer burnt metal, then burnished with pastels for a slightly rusty color.

Markings added I gave the Cobra a coat of Alclad II gloss base primer in preparation for decals. he shark mouth was vital, and the decals were fragile. hey it well with Solvaset, but Cyndi Ann’s teeth were rotten. What to do? Finding an Apple Barrel acrylic paint that closely matched, I handpainted the lips and teeth over the decals. he remaining decals were ine. Another coat of Alclad II gloss base, followed by a coat of Polly Scale lat, sealed them.

Getting dirty I applied a wash of burnt umber artist’s oils along panel lines and rivets, then used a sponge to randomly weather with Model Master Metalizer steel. he skids and areas

that were frequently touched by pilots and crew chiefs were treated the same: irst zinc chromate, then Model Master steel because it isn’t too shiny. I dipped the sponge in the bottle cap, blotted a lot of on paper, then slowly dabbed it on the Cobra. On landing gear bottoms I used steel, then zinc, and inally the top color. I also experimented with a darker olive drab on parts of the fuselage. Silver and No. 2 pencils represented paint chips on various parts. I followed by post-shading with a thinned Tamiya red brown and lat black mix. his was kept to the shadows and vertical streaks.

Final touches Finally, I glued seats in the cockpit. he M73 relex gunsight is greatly enhanced by the Cobra Company set and clear styrene. hen I added the red ire extinguisher to the front seat along with a Reheat placard. Armament was added to the predrilled holes, and Eduard prepainted “Remove Before Flight” tags placed on the pylons. he kit canopy lacks the proper bulges on the side and the framing for the doors. I contacted Dave Lochead of Kiwi Resin and

asked him to master a new canopy with the proper shape. He worked with Falcon Clear-Vax Canopies to produce them. Before attaching the canopy, I painted its framing. Many Cobras, including Cyndi Ann, had frames that were darker color than the rest of the aircraft. I painted mine Model Master dark ghost gray and Gunze olive drab, and added two hinges to both door frames. he backseat door is held open by two support struts, but the front has only one. I fashioned these from tubing and wire. he mounts were made with styrene. I added shaped lights from CMK to the wingtips with white glue, then painted the aft portion to match the wings. he aft lights were added with white glue. A landing light was added with an M.V. Products lens on the belly. he tail rotors and mast were attached with white glue. I wanted to show the blades tied down, so I used dental loss and Tamiya tape to make weight bags tinted with red marker. A hook was fashioned from wire and inserted in a hole drilled into the blade’s end. It’s amazing what you can do with an older kit, resin, and some inspiration. FSM www.FineScale.com

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BUILDER BASICS By Aaron Skinner

Model glue FAQ How it works and how to work with it

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lthough modelers increasingly use super glue and epoxy, the basic tool for connecting one plastic part to another remains good old solvent-based cement, sometimes called model or plastic-airplane glue

How does glue work? Speaking chemically … actually, let’s not get too technical. But knowing how glue works helps understand how to use it. Most of us got started squeezing thick stuf out of tubes onto our ingers, workbench, and possibly the mating surfaces of parts. Watching others and advancing our skills, we learned how to discretely in a little liquid cement. Formulations and consistencies difer, but glue works the same way: he solvent in the cement dissolves, melts, or softens — pick your verb — plastic on either side of the join. As the solvent evaporates, the plastic hardens and welds the pieces together. 48 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Cement should be applied to both surfaces as they are joined. Because of the chemical process, plastic solvent cement can only be used to join plastic to plastic. If you are working with resin or metal, use super glue or epoxy. Also, because the process physically changes plastic, it can be dicey around clear parts; add them with white glue or clear-part cement.

Should I use tube glue? I don’t use it often, but I keep tube glue handy. It’s thicker and takes longer to set, which means more time to adjust the position of the parts, and it’s easy to apply a little dot without it lowing away. But be warned, the longer plastic cement stays liquid, the longer the solvent is active. It can damage thin, delicate parts if left too long, so use it sparingly. Also, some tube glues produce strings of cement that will etch any plastic they touch, 1. To use tube glue, squeeze a little onto a

palette or a piece of glass and use a toothpick to transfer it to the parts.

What’s the secret of liquid cement? he irst time I used liquid cement was a revelation, and I haven’t looked back since. It’s easy to apply and provides a strong bond. Many brands supply a built-in brush, but most are too big, 2. I use a ine brush to apply liquid cement, 3. Don’t try to brush glue along both surfaces, then push them together; the solvent will be gone before you inish and no weld will form. Instead, hold the parts in place, load the brush with cement, and touch it to the seam, 4. here’s no need to brush the glue along the joint; capillary action will pull the thin liquid into and along the gap. Both sides will be afected by the solvent. On short joints, one brush load will work. For long ones, like a fuselage, touch the brush to the seam several times, 1-2" apart.

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Tube glue stays put and can be applied with pinpoint accuracy on a toothpick or pin. But it can be stringy and messy, so take care using it.

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For fine work without the mess, use a No. 0 brush. I prefer long bristles because they hold a little more cement.

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Are all liquid glues the same? No. Liquid glues are not created equal. Some are thick and viscous, others are thin and low like rubbing alcohol. Some evaporate within a matter of seconds and make seemingly instantaneous bonds. Others

If possible, apply liquid cement from the back side of a join as on this F-15 ejection seat. That hides any blemishes from view.

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A gentle squeeze of the Testors Liquid Cement container produces a thin bead of solvent along mating surfaces on Tamiya’s M48A3 turret.

If you like the extended working time and extra power of tube glue, but crave the neatness of liquid cement, several manufacturers package thin cement in small plastic bottles with a built-in applicator. he glue is easily dispensed onto joining surfaces, 5. It doesn’t evaporate immediately, giving working time and a strong bond.

Most brushes in liquid cement bottles are too big and hold too much cement for accurate applications.

Before completely pushing together the halves of an M48 gun, I generously apply liquid cement to the seam.

take hours to set completely and remain tacky and workable. Some work only on certain types of plastic. Knowing the diferences helps you choose the right kind. Some, such as Tamiya Cement and Mr. Hobby Mr. Cement, are noticeably thick on the brush. Others, like Testors Plastic Cement, are low-viscosity but take longer to set. All give you more working time; the latter works especially well for joining individual-link tank tracks, as the parts remain lexible for 30-45 minutes — perfect for forming them around running gear. At the other extreme are Plastruct’s Bondene and Plastic Weld, Micro-Mark

Professional Plastic Welder, and Squadron Plastic Weld, which evaporate quickly. hat means less working time but also less time bracing parts as they dry and minimal risk of damaging delicate parts. Need an instant bond between parts you are holding together? Try Tenax-7R. In the middle are glues like Tamiya Extra hin Cement and Microscale Micro Weld which, as Goldilocks might put it, are “just right.” Intermediate drying times make them ideal for general construction. Check glue labels and kit instructions for the types of plastic used and the cement recommended. www.FineScale.com

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A few seconds later, I squeeze the halves together, which forces liquid plastic out of the seam. Then I leave it to harden.

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Scraping the bead of hardened plastic off the barrel produces a nearly perfect seam that requires little or no cleanup.

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Gah! That’s not where I wanted that glue to go. Resist the urge to wipe the spill away …

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… because you’ll only make it worse, spreading the damage, and leaving fingerprints.

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To enhance the texture on Tamiya’s M48A3 turret, I softened the surface with Testors Liquid Cement. Here, the coarse bottle brush is an asset.

Is it possible to ill seams? Super glue is better known as a iller, but solvent cement can eliminate seams in styrene. Hold the parts together and low medium-setting cement into the join, 6. Wait a few seconds for the solvent to do its thing, then squeeze the parts together, 7. hat should force a bead of molten styrene out of the gap.

More at www.FineScale.com To view techniques on how to use various glues for constructing your models, visit FineScale.com/videos 50 FineScale Modeler July 2016

After a minute, I stippled the softened plastic with an old stiff brush. Another application of cement will soften ridges and peaks.

Let it dry. hen you can scrape and sand the bead from the seam, leaving smooth plastic underneath, 8. It’s perfect for gun barrels, fuselages, and hulls.

I made a mistake. What now? If you get glue where you don’t want it because you slipped, sneezed, or are genuinely clumsy like me, don’t try to wipe it away, 9. You’ll make things worse by spreading the solvent and marring the plastic, 10. Instead, let the solvent evaporate, then repair the blemish. You can take advantage of the solvent’s action to texture surfaces. Working a sec-

tion at a time, brush a little slow-setting cement onto the model, 11. After letting it set for a minute, stipple the soft plastic with a stif brush — don’t use one of your good ones — to produce a cast texture, 12. A little liquid cement can smooth rough plastic resulting from sanding.

Should I handle glue with care? Solvent glues have harmful vapors and should be used in a well-ventilated space. If you can smell the glue, you’re inhaling the stuf. Avoid eye contact or swallowing. Most are lammable, so keep them away from lames. FSM

READER TIPS By Mark Savage Cheap saw blade If you use clingy kitchen plastic wrap, you can cut out the “saw blade” on the box when you’re finished with the wrap and use the saw for modeling. I didn’t think it would work, either, until I took a piece of flat plastic and used the wrap’s blade to cut the plastic in half. Razor saws cost about $10, while the plastic wrap is about $1-$3 and you’d normally pitch the box when out of wrap. Instead, cut the saw section out with scissors and attach it to a painter’s stick or something rigid to make a cutting tool. – John Koehn Rocky Mount, N.C.

Tape helps with lines When I want to paint sharp lines, either straight or wavy as on some Navy aircraft, I use blue or green painter’s tape, which can be purchased almost anywhere. The tape does not allow paint to bleed under it, and it also peels off easily without lifting the underlying finish. I cut the width and shape of the strips I need by laying it out on a drafting board with a T square to keep the cuts straight. Blue painter’s tape is economical to use as it costs about $8 for 60 yards (that’ll take a while to use up) and, depending on the width, goes around curves easily. – Dennis Cermak Fraser, Mich.

Not just for legs, pantyhose can make effective netting for 1/72 scale armor.

Nothing beats a great ... bit of cam netting I have tried many things to simulate camouflage netting for 1/72 scale armor — door-screening, multilayered onion sacks, etc. Nothing really quite did it for me. One night while finishing an Elefant, it hit me ... pantyhose! Thanks to my wife for donating a pair. They appear to be the right scale and are easily workable in mounting, look taut without stressing the kit, and can easily be painted. I used rod styrene to make mounting pegs for easy display. This is a winner for me. – Scott Wisbith East Palestine, Ohio

Tea time yields “rope” I have found an easy way to depict rope on 1/72 scale AFVs (armored fighting vehicle) and models of similar scale. I use the string attached to teabags. I use water-diluted PVA glue to set shapes and then paint it with whatever color I feel looks like rope. Dry-brushing or a wash are optional. That’s it. All teabag strings are different, so find the strings that you feel most resemble rope and you’re set. – Martin Debattista Birkirkara, Malta HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to [email protected] or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

regular paper, and since it is a standard size it is much easier to load in the printer than other thin paper. – Micah Kerr Greenwood, Ind.

Tighten that rigging

Make your own flags I’ve never really liked the look of flag decals, possibly due to a misspent childhood using the paper flags that came in old Revell ship kits. I recently made a Jolly Roger for a Mirage 1/400 scale HMS Udine converted to HMS Ursula. After finding photos of the real flag on the Internet, I drew the flag in PowerPoint, adjusted the size, and printed it on a sheet of self-adhesive mailing labels. I attached the flag with white glue. Mail-label paper is much thinner than

Just read Phillip Gore’s biplane story in the April 2016 FSM, and want to share my method of tightening rigging. I hit on this idea while building Revell’s Titanic. Use Trilene XL 4-pound fishing line about the right length limp. After super gluing it in place, heat a table knife (not the family silver!) with a candle for a couple minutes. Then hold the knife under the rigging, close but not touching. The line will tighten; be careful not to overtighten it or you risk bending the mast. (I say it’s headed into a strong head wind.) Test it first to get a feel for how much you’ll need to tighten the line. – John Sturrock Edmonton, Alberta, Canada www.FineScale.com

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Rye Field Tiger packed full of detail

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ewcomer Rye Field Model has produced the best kit yet of a Tiger I with interior. The model represents an early Russian Front vehicle from s.Pz.Abt. 503, specifically tank 321, in 1943. Tigers from this unit sported a fieldbuilt storage bin on the turret. Crews found the Feifel air cleaners unnecessary and removed them, and the 503rd used the space to mount extra storage racks or bins. For a long time it was thought the 503 vehicles were painted Panzer gray, although this was well after the introduction of dunkelgelb. Some research indicates they were painted dark olive green. While all of the features of tank 321 are provided in the kit, there are plenty of optional parts included should you wish to build a different vehicle. Parts — more than 1,800 of them! — pack the large box. Molded in tan plastic, the kit features

excellent detail, including well-molded weld seams and cast texture. The individual-link tracks are molded in dark gray. Two small photo-etched (PE) frets are included, and twisted wire is provided for tow cables. A small decal sheet provides markings for tank 321. Other turret numbers are provided, but no information is included in the instructions. The 24-page instruction booklet includes color drawings of the interior and exterior of the vehicle, useful for orientation. I was a little disappointed by the limited color callouts for the interior. Only AK Interactive paints are referenced. Assembly kicks off with the turret. The main gun barrel comes in three tubular sections, so there are no joins to eliminate, only a faint mold seam. At this time, German tank interiors were painted gray-green below the sponsons and off-white above. I used Tamiya JGSDF dark green (XF-73) for the green and mixed flat white (XF-2) with a little deck tan (XF-78) for the off-white. When assembling the gun mantlet in Step 2, install the machine gun assembly first. Otherwise the frames (parts J3 and J69) will be in the way. I suggest leaving off the turret-elevation hydraulic cylinder in

Step 3 until you are ready to hook it to the gun breech in Step 10; it sticks out and is easily broken. The PE jerry-can rack’s butt joins made it difficult to assemble. The turret hatches are posable, but only the side escape hatch is workable. Moving to the hull, the PE frames under the floor are tricky. I placed all of the cross members in their approximate places, then added the long pieces. Each joint was fixed with thin super glue. Once it was assembled, I glued the frame into the hull. In Step 16, install the subfloor piece (K28) before you attach details to the side wall or it will never fit. The fit of all that interior in the hull impressed me. But I was disappointed that the rounds for the stowage racks are molded onto the rails. It makes them easier to install, but complicates painting and you can’t show a missing round or two. When adding the engine compartment interior walls (H17 and H20), temporarily install the rear plate (B3) to aid alignment. The engine lacks hoses, and the exhaust pipes don’t reach the rear plate. Contemporary photos show that tank 321, like many other 503rd Tigers, didn’t have exhaust shrouds, and only the left rear fender remained.

I left off the running gear until after painting. Detailing the hull top progressed quickly. I used the tools with molded-on tool clamps rather than the optional PE clasps. After cutting the hoses from the Feifel air system connectors (parts B70 and B71), I drilled out the inlets for realism. The wire for the tow cables looks terrific, but there’s no information about how long the cables should be. My right-hand cable turned out a bit too short to have nice graceful curves when installed. I mixed Tamiya paints for dark olive. The decals are a bit stiff and a little delicate; a couple broke during application. Neither Microscale Micro Sol nor Solvaset had much effect on them. Fortunately, most of the markings go onto flat surfaces. No ejector-pin marks mar the wellmolded track links. Assembly, while a bit

tedious, went smoothly; I suggest doing a few at a time, rather than building all of them in a single sitting. The connector pins refused to stay in the tracks without a little cement, but take care to avoid gluing the links together. The suggested 96 links per side fit perfectly. I spent about 46 hours building my Tiger, split equally between assembly and painting. The finished model matches the dimensions in David Doyle’s Standard Catalog of German Military Vehicles (Krause, ISBN 978-0-87349-783-1). Also useful: The Modeler’s Guide to Building the Tiger Tank (Ampersand, ISBN 978-1-932033-78-6). The number of parts may intimidate some modelers. But if you regard each subassembly as an individual model, it’s no more challenging than any other kit. – John Plzak

he SU-76 married the excellent 76mm ZiS-3Sh gun and mechanical components of the T-70 light tank. The 10-ton self-propelled gun was built in huge numbers during World War II, making it second only to the T-34 as the Soviet Union’s most-produced armored vehicle. Used to support infantry across the Eastern Front from 1942 on, it also served with North Korean forces in the Korean War. Tamiya’s all-new SU-76M features linkand-length tracks with a jig to properly sag the upper runs, three figures, a movable gun, spare rounds, and markings for three vehicles, one in Eastern Prussia and two from the Berlin campaign. The hull builds from four pieces that sandwich the gun mount. I painted ammo racks with Tamiya olive green (XF-58), and the rounds with Testors Metalizer brass (No. 1417) and Floquil graphite (No. F110119). The rounds sit a little high in the rack, so I had to work them in. I painted the rest of the fighting compartment before installation. Rather than following the instruction’s color suggestion of Tamiya gunmetal

(X-10), I painted the PPSh-41 submachine guns Testors gunmetal (No. 1198) — it’s darker. I weathered the fighting compartment before moving forward. I planned to use the figures, so I moved the ammo back in the rack to make room for the gunner. It’s a crowded space! I dryfitted the figures to make sure of their poses. Speaking of the crew, Tamiya has stepped up its game when it comes to figures. All three look animated and, for the most part, well molded. I did find a little soft detail here and there; for example, the loader’s shoulder boards get indistinct toward the neck. The other two figures were fine. I painted them with Tamiya acrylics and Tamiya weathering pastels. The link-and-length tracks worked well. The jig to form the upper runs works like a charm to realistically sag the tracks over the return rollers; spacers prevent cement from attaching the links to the plastic form. I used Tamiya’s orange-label cement (No. 87012). The slower drying time gives extra working time to set the links in the jig and around the drive sprockets. The tracks were painted with Tamiya dark iron (XF-84) and dry-brushed chrome silver (X-11). After installing the gun, I added the gunner and commander, aligning them with an elevation handle and periscope, respectively. Last in was the loader, who slipped easily into position. For realism, I drilled out the end of the spent casings, painted them with Metalizer brass, and added black pastel for the burnt powder. An overall coat of Tamiya olive green prepared the surface for decals, which went on without problems. Pastels weathered the little self-propelled gun with the dust of the Berlin urban battlefield. I spent 30 enjoyable hours building and painting Tamiya’s SU-76. It’s a great kit and I highly recommend it. – Tom Foti

his is one beautiful offering from Eduard! The surface detail on the injectionmolded parts rates as some of the nicest I’ve ever seen. A fret of 36 optional pre-colored photo-etched (PE) parts can be used to enhance the model. There’s also a set of 13 masks for the windshield and canopy — make that canopies, plural. There’s an option of the flat hood or the later blown one, and each choice has two canopies — one to close up, and a slightly narrower one to pose open. Other features include: separate, posable ailerons and rudder; a choice of main gear doors, wheels, and hubs; and five marking options. Color callouts reference GSI Creos paints, including RLM designations. I have a couple of other Eduard kits in my stash, but this newly tooled Fw 190A-8 is the first of those that I’ve built. With two mediums I’m not very familiar with — photo-etched details and self-adhesive masks — this kit was a

Revell Germany BAe Hawk T1

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evell Germany’s Hawk trainer offers markings for the Red Arrows, the Royal Air Force’s aerobatic team, in the current eye-catching red-and-white scheme. Molded in slightly soft red plastic, the parts feature excellent recessed surface detail. Several smaller pieces have flash and seam lines on them. Take care cleaning them up, as they are delicate. Revell Germany has developed a new look for its instructions, with color diagrams and paint callouts throughout, matched by the printed colors. Cockpit detail looks good for the scale, with instrument-panel decals and raised details on side consoles. The ejection seats are nice but lack pull handles. Construction of the major parts went quickly, and it was soon time for the fiddly bits. I used just a little filler on the fuselage/wing seam, intakes, and lower fuselage, and added ballast under the cockpit floor to keep the nose wheel grounded. I was a little disappointed to find that the intakes open to the interior. The tail fillet (parts E15 and E17) is

learning experience for me. The extensive instructions provide clear views of all parts and how they fit, plus fullcolor, four-view painting and markings illustrations. I elected to use the PE parts for the cockpit and belly. With two exceptions, the fit is great. I used a little filler on the forward fuselage ahead of the wing. The misfit may be due to me or some interference between the wheel wells, engine, exhausts, cowl, and cockpit. The separately packed glare shield was too narrow for the cockpit. I shimmed it with styrene strips on either side. The scale-size attachment points for some parts with small purchase areas are attached with tiny spots of glue and are

fragile. But they look great when assembled. From the super-nice marking choices, I built Maj. Walter Dahl’s aircraft from Stab/ JG 300; I liked the contrast between the red fuselage band and blue numerals. The masks worked well, and for my first effort with them they turned out OK (though not perfect), with the left side adhering poorly to the smaller-radius curve of the canopy. The decals are a high point of the kit. There’s different color stenciling for each markings option, but Eduard also has provided extra decals for each. That’s a huge comfort to those of us who tend to mess one up here and there along the way. The decals were basically perfect — opaque,

too short — it should extend to the end of the fuselage — but that should be easy to fix with a little styrene. I left off the landing gear, doors, pitot tube, and speed brake for painting. I also omitted the two inboard flap hinges on each wing to facilitate decal placement. After priming, I sprayed the Hawk with several coats of Tamiya red (X-7), followed by several coats of clear. The decals, though nicely printed, easy to apply, and opaque, presented some challenges. First, the white arrowhead outline under the fuselage crosses the main gear doors — but Revell did not separate the decals or indicate where they should be cut. If you want to position the gear extended,

as I did, you’ll need to measure and cut these decals yourself. I laid the decals over the open wheel wells, then cut away the section over the bay and applied them to the doors. Unfortunately, the decals split and cracked when I separated the doors. I repaired them with spare white decals and paint. Temporarily fitting the doors in the wells might be a better option. I placed the stripe too low along the forward fuselage. Both sides should terminate around the opening for the pitot tube. I didn’t catch the error until after the port side decal had dried, so I placed the starboard decal to match. Liberal applications of decal-setting

they fit well and settled onto the surface beautifully. I spent 25 hours building the model, slightly more than my norm for a singleengine fighter. Eduard has produced a real honey for the money. It offers a ton of flexibility: It can be basic or a craftsman’s build, depending on how extensively the PE is used. Eduard hits a home run with this one. – Walt Fink solution wrapped the white stripes around the intake lips. Note that the main-gear retraction arms (parts B44 and B45) are reversed in the instructions. I spent 25 hours on the little Hawk, a bit longer than I expected. Despite my missteps, the Hawk looks the part of a Red Arrows aircraft and will make an attractive, colorful addition to a collection of modern jets. I recommend it for modelers with a few kits behind them. – Phil Pignataro

eleased under the World Architecture – The Most Famous Monuments label, Italeri’s Statue of Liberty provides 12 parts and a nice educational pamphlet, and is geared to younger modelers. My 8-year-old son, Nathaniel, tackled it. Most of the parts are tan except for Lady Liberty herself, which is garish green. In theory, you wouldn’t need to paint. The instructions include a printed paper U.S. flag if you prefer to use it instead of painting the molded part. Nathaniel started with the star-shaped platform; it took a fair amount of cleanup under Dad’s watchful eye to smooth the four sprue attachment points. After cleaning up the parts for the pedestal, he placed the first wall section with a bit of effort. The kit is not designed to snap together, but the fit was tight. It was hard for him to keep all four sides in place at one time to get them glued, so I showed him how to use a clamp to keep them together long enough for him to apply glue. We used Testors Liquid Cement throughout. After the base was dry, Nathaniel test-

fitted the riser — and it stuck halfway! A bit of extra hand strength from Dad and a brush of glue from Nathaniel fixed it. It would have helped to open the holes slightly. Next, Lady Liberty: The entire statue is molded in just two parts; only the crown is separate. Fit was excellent, and we left her off for painting. “Would you like to hand-paint it or airbrush?” I asked. “Airbrush!” was the immediate reply. Selecting paint from Dad’s stash that looked close, Nathaniel chose Testors Model Master Acryl RAF sky for the statue and Tamiya buff (XF57) for the base. I mixed the paints for him and he sprayed each color after practicing on some cardboard. The folds of the stat-

ue’s robe were so nicely sculpted by Italeri, I encouraged Nathaniel to try his hand at a wash. We used Flory Models dark dirt wash, a suspension of fine clay in water. He brushed some on, let it dry just a bit, and then removed it with a cotton swab. He was pleased with how it made the statue look. “Just like the real one!” Another wash emphasized the sharply molded stonework and architectural features of the base. We finished assembly by placing the statue on the base. Nathaniel caught an error in the instructions when figuring which way to mount the statue, based on the instructions; the drawings on the back page are different from the construction drawings and the way he had built the kit. The flagpole should be at the left rear corner of the base as you look at the front of the monument,

Tamiya IJN Kagero

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amiya’s 1/350 scale kit represents the Kagero, the lead ship of its class, in its 1939 fit. Similar in design to previous classes, the Kagero class was considered the pinnacle of Japanese destroyers, with a streamlined bridge structure, 35.5-knot speed, 5,000mile range, and balanced weapons fit; it was the first class to carry the deadliest longrange naval weapon of World War II, the 20km Type 93 Long Lance torpedo. The kit offers optional barrels for the six 12.7cm Type 3 guns in three Type C turrets to set the elevation at 5 or 45 degrees. 56 FineScale Modeler July 2016

Terrific detail graces the two Type 92 torpedo mounts and pair of Hotchkiss license-built twin 25mm mounts. Vinyl retainers leave the turrets and rudder movable. No deviations from the 16-page, 32-step booklet were required. Step 1 gives the option to build a waterline or full-hull model. I modified the lower hull, removing the internal guide rail to display it either way. The rest of the hull built quickly and without problems. Step 8 has info about cutting and bending photo-etch, perfect for novices.

not the left front as drawn in the instructions. However, you can’t change this easily because the part is keyed. He added the printed flag to the pole and attached the flagpole to the base. After an enjoyable three hours spread over a couple of days, Nathaniel had his own miniature Statue of Liberty. Italeri has done a fine job capturing the look of the famous landmark while making it simple enough for a youngster to handle. – Chuck and Nathaniel Davis Clear instructions quickly guide the build through the PE radio direction-finder tower, compact bridge structure, and masts. In Step 27, I added the main gun barrels, using the high angle in one and the low angle in the other two for visual interest. It’s great to have the option. The remaining steps cover deck details, including fine PE depth-charge racks and paravane cranes. Color instructions and decals show large white characters for the hull sides and stern, but these were painted out for the Pearl Harbor raid and never replaced. I added one to the port side but not the starboard so both aspects could be viewed. I painted the hull with Testors Model Master Acryl Maizuru gray (No. 4252) and the deck with Tamiya linoleum brown (XF-79). Stretched-sprue rigging was added to the masts to match the box art. This excellent, detailed kit is perfect for beginners, and a great starting point for an advanced modeler who wants to add aftermarket or scratchbuilt parts. I spent just over 11 hours on the build, aided by the terrific instructions and the logical assembly sequence. This is one of the most relaxing models I’ve built recently. – Mark Karolus

ollowing logically from Horizon’s Mercury capsule set, the Atlas booster kit comes with the same Mercury capsule sprue (just one this time) plus all the parts for the booster and a simple stand. Also included on the sprues are three different warheads – whaaaat? Yep, the boosters for NASA’s Mercury and Gemini manned space programs were developed from ballistic missiles. The Redstones that launched the suborbital Mercury missions were U.S. Army ballistic missiles; the Atlas used for the orbital Mercury launches was for U.S. Air Force intercontinental ballistic missiles (ICBMs); and the Gemini missions went into orbit on Air Force Titan ICBM boosters. (Read my Workbench Review on building the capsule in the March 2016 FSM.) The straightforward build of the booster begins with identical body halves. But pay attention when drilling out attachment holes, as each half is different. Most of the rest of the assem-

bly is easy, but follow the instructions carefully to replicate the proper add-ons; the boosters varied in detail. You may want to add some of the external pipes after paint and decals. Leave off the photo-etched (PE) retro-rocket restraining strap to make attaching the finished capsule to the booster easier. Also note that the PE liquid oxygen vent (Part PE4) that is attached to the spacecraft adapter is mislabeled as PE8. I wasn’t happy with the way the pair of little stabilizing rockets (A4) attach to each side of the booster. Holes have to be bored out from the corners of parts A2, and it was difficult to do cleanly. I painted my Atlas with flat aluminum for the bottom of the booster, Alclad polished aluminum over gloss black for the rest. I applied Bare-Metal Foil ultrabright chrome to the alternating ring panels at the top of the missile. Horizon’s terrific decals went on without trouble. I liked the big one-piece decals that hold a host of small stencils for the external equipment pods. Note the different numbers and styles of “United States” for the different boosters. The one-piece stand simply presses into the middle booster nozzle and you’re go for launch. Not counting the capsule, I spent 17 hours on the booster, most of that painting and decaling. I sure hope a GeminiTitan is on Horizon’s horizon! – Paul Boyer www.FineScale.com

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Meng Convair F-106A Delta Dart

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t’s only natural that modelers want better, more-accurate kits with more detail. Meng’s new kit of the U.S. Air Force’s ultimate interceptor, the F-106A, is certainly better, more accurate, and more detailed than the 45-year-old Hasegawa kit. And if it isn’t detailed enough for you, Meng offers finer detail in two resin part sets: No. SPS-022, Cockpit & Electronic Compartment; and SPS-023, Wheel Wells & Exhaust Nozzle. But let’s get back to the base kit. Meng provides just about every option and equipment change possible on the single-seat Delta Dart, including: two different canopies, the original and blown; two types of ejection seats; two instrument panels and coamings; two types of main wheels; and short and long external tanks. But wait, there’s more: an M61A1 Vulcan cannon; opened or closed weapons-bay doors; raised or lowered infrared detector ball; detailed radar with separate radome; exposed elec-

tronics bays with separate covers; intake FOD covers; opened or closed speed brake; separate elevons; and a posable canopy. And that’s not all! You also get a well-detailed weapons bay and extended missile launch rails, a wheeled dolly for the AIR-2 Genie missile, cases for the AIM-4F and -4G Falcon missiles, and even a photo-etched boarding ladder! Decals provide markings for Montana and New Jersey Air National Guard jets and an early F-106 from 539th FIS in 1960. Whew! All those parts and options make for a complex kit. Generally, fit is good throughout. It is clear Meng’s kit designers knew what they were doing. But I can’t say the same about the folks who laid out the instructions. Some illustrations are tiny and difficult to see, while others are large and lack information. I had trouble figuring out the locations of the endpoints of the retraction struts for the main landing gear and had to test fit each piece several times before gluing. Also, the presence or absence of the gun pod in the rear of the weapons bay isn’t fully explained; apparently, the New Jersey ANG bird can be built with or without it. Alternate short, front, inner bay doors for the gun-equipped version are shown floating in space in Step 14. Meng doesn’t show where they should be attached; a bottom view of the completed assembly would have been a great help. The PE boarding ladder is a nice touch, but the illustrations don’t show clearly how the flat etching should be folded. I folded it backward first, and when I corrected it, the fragile rungs fell off. I replaced them with thin styrene rod. I had trouble fitting the afterburner ring at the back of the nozzle. I sliced a section of the ring out with a razor saw and reinserted the ring for a better fit.

I didn’t install, but did test-fit, the gun pack. The instructions seem to show two squared-off pins fitting into sockets in the top of the missile bay, but there are no sockets. Just slice off the pins. The landing gear bays, weapons bay, a neat bifurcated intake trunk, afterburner structure, and cockpit all go into the fuselage. If you’ve fit everything precisely, you shouldn’t encounter trouble mounting the wing. However, adding the intake trunk to the wing, then lowering the fuselage over it, went smoother for me. I thinned the right side of the vertical stabilizer so it fit flush in the cavity on the left side. I posed everything open, painting the electronics bay in the nose from color photos in F-106 Delta Dart in Detail & Scale by Bert Kinzey (Squadron/Signal, ISBN 9780-8168-5027-3). I noticed that the cockpit, seat, interior canopy framing, and electronics bay structure on Montana Air Guard birds were painted in a bright light blue, so I mixed enamels for that. The decals went on fine and looked right. Final assembly included mounting the missile bay doors. The tiny PE hinge scissors were difficult to install between the inner and outer doors. Apparently, the radome of the F-106 was not hinged, so to show off the radar, you need to place it aside. I like the Genie dolly and AIM-4 cases but wish the kit included the stretchers that were used by crews to lift the Falcons into the bay. In the end, Meng delivers what is probably the best 1/72 scale single-engine jet model ever. I spent 29 hours on mine with everything hanging out. If you choose to close the bays, canopy, and radome, you can do it quicker. But you paid for all that detail — why not show it? – Paul Boyer

Italeri Dassault Mirage IIIC

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espite its size Italeri’s big-scale Mirage will fit snugly on a 12" shelf, thanks to the delta fighter’s narrow wingspan. Opening the box presents you with a bunch of gray sprues, a thick instruction book with color four-view drawings for the six marking options, a separate sheet showing stencil placement, a small fret of photoetched brass, and clear parts, all packaged separately. Two large Cartograf decal sheets provide markings for six aircraft: three French, a Swiss, a South African, and an Israeli. Features include posable control surfaces, weighted tires, full-length intakes, and the option of displaying the engine out of the plane on a cart. But there is only one engine and no parts to fill the interior of the model if you choose to display it out; just a gaping hole aft. The multipart ejection seat went together with no problems, and the PE harness looks great. The HUD glass (part No. 10E) looked a little rough, so I replaced it with clear Mylar. The instrument panel is well detailed but lacks instrument faces; a decal option would have added a bit more life to the cockpit. Each wall of the wheel wells is separate and has extensive molded detail, including plumbing. Step 12 indicates the engine should be sandwiched by the fuselage halves before adding the vertical stabilizer. It’s easier to join the fuselage and tail first, because the engine gets in the way otherwise.

A quick swipe with 440-grit sandpaper smoothed leading edges. Rectangular recessed areas on the fuselage were hard to eliminate without damaging the surrounding surface detail. Dry-fit the lower fuselage religiously; it’s a tight squeeze around the cockpit and the weird angles of the intakes. I repeatedly filled and sanded to get a smooth joint. The real fun came when I installed the outer parts of the intakes. They don’t fit, resulting in a gap between the intakes and the shock diffusers and an unsightly step where the intakes meet the fuselage. Styrene shims, filler, and sanding corrected the misfit but eliminated most of the surface detail. Don’t forget to add weight up front to prevent the plane being a tail-sitter. The round one-piece nose cone doesn’t match the ovoid forward fuselage, which means more filling and sanding. At the other end, the tail cone that fits over the exhaust nozzle doesn’t match the fuselage, producing a step. PE splitters join the intakes to the fuselage; they need to be bent 90 degrees in two spots, but aren’t scored. After a couple of failed attempts at bending the parts, I replaced them with thin sheet styrene. The landing gear struts look good and, although they are long and spindly, support the plane. But the actuators needed cleanup and didn’t match the molded locators. Large ejector-pin marks mar the inside of gear doors. The PE hinges look nice but do not make strong joints. The instructions

show the option of posing the gear up, but dry-fitting showed they don’t fit the openings. No pilot is included. I closed the canopy because the detailed cockpit is visible through the crystal-clear plastic. After several failed attempts to attach the tiny PE mirrors to the windshield, I discarded them with extreme prejudice. I finished my Mirage as a desert camouflaged French fighter in Djibouti in 1980. The decals went on without problems. A highlight of the kit is the expansive weapon selection showing typical loads. Stencil decals dress up the ordnance. This impressive kit builds into a nice presentation with a bit of extra work and attention to detail. – Caleb Horn

ne of many special purpose HEMTTs (Heavy Expanded Mobility Tactical Truck), the M983 tractor is used to tow components of the MIM-104 Patriot missile system. Molded in light gray plastic with clear lights and windows, the kit includes a small photo-etched (PE) fret and eight vinyl tires. The parts are detailed, but a lot of ejector-pin marks, excess sprue, mold seams, and a little flash need to be dealt with. The error-free instructions feature color callouts for details but are a little vague about where some parts are located. Looking ahead will clear up most concerns. A color sheet shows a vehicle in desert sand and one in threecolor NATO camo. Study the instructions and plan subassemblies to make painting easier; there are a lot of details that will be hard to paint later.

Trumpeter MIM-104 Patriot launcher and radar trailers

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rumpeter surprised the modeling world with its release of the Patriot SAM System, which includes the M901 launching station and the AN/MPQ-53 radar set. It’s a large box with 38 sprues and several individual gray plastic parts, clear plastic lights, three photo-etched (PE) frets, and eight vinyl tires. The plastic is brittle; I broke several of the smaller parts removing them from the sprues. The crisp moldings are marred by a little flash and mold seams. Only a few ejector-pin marks under the fenders need to be eliminated. The rest will be invisible. Keeping track of the differences between the two trailers can be complicated, especially if you build the pair at the same time. I’ll build them separately next time. One marking choice is included for each trailer, with color five-view drawings of the NATO three-color camouflage on each trailer. Study the instructions to plan for painting; there are a lot of tight spots. Starting with the outriggers, there are small pour plugs on parts G1 that look like they belong — but, actually, they should be removed. Subassembly N-1 was not glued in place until painting was complete. This allows for easier painting of the interior of the outriggers. The directions have you glue the upper and lower halves of the outriggers 60 FineScale Modeler July 2016

to their brackets (parts E25, E43, E11, E37, E41, and E13), then mount this subassembly to the trailer frames. But I found it easier to attach the brackets to the trailers first and then add the upper and lower outrigger arms. Remember to place Part E19 between the two outrigger brackets; it can’t be added later. To fit the walkway frame (Part R21), I

cut a groove in Part R9 so the cross member in R21 sits flat. When assembling the beds, you need to drill holes in parts F3 specific to each trailer. In Step 6, you mount the front walkway platforms. But I would I suggest waiting until the trailers are finished to avoid damaging them. In Step 7, Part E20 has two small tabs

The frame builds from two large side rails with cross members sandwiched in between. However, the cab end seems to be missing a few of the cross members. I assembled the four axles without difficulty. I wanted to pose the front wheels turned to one side, but the kit was not designed to have the wheels turned. So, I modified parts B38 and B39. I left the axles off for painting. A lot of people prefer plastic to vinyl tires, but the eight in the kit are top-notch with good sidewall detail, including the manufacturer’s name and other data. A small mold seam on each tire all but disappears under weathering. The kit provides optional lights — entirely clear or with gray bodies and clear lenses. I chose the latter. The simplified engine looks fine through the frame. Detail fills the cab, and much will be visible through the large windows. A lack

of surface area on the seat frames makes for weak assemblies. I bolstered the joints with strips of styrene inside the frames. After painting the interior parts, I applied the numerous decals. It was easier to punch out the gauges from the large dashboard decals than to fit it over and around the molded detail on the panel. A drop of gloss for the glass finished them off. Use caution attaching the grille; put the two large openings toward the bottom to accommodate the frame. The two grab handles were broken in my kit; these delicate parts would be best replaced with brass rod. The PE is soft and easily damaged. I had trouble keeping the grating for the rear platforms (parts PE-A9 and PE-A12) flat. No cable is provided for the winch, so I added nylon string. Using Ammo of Mig Jimenez acrylics, I painted the vehicle desert sand to contrast with the NATO-camouflaged MM-104.

that look like imperfections. But they’re actually locators. Starting in Step 10, you are adding parts only to the launcher trailer. A problem arises in Step 11: The bracket on S1 for the working doors is molded in the wrong place and needs to be moved. I ended up gluing the doors closed because the small pin that allowed them to remain workable broke during handling. The launcher unit is designed to elevate, but the antenna locks it in place. One missile is included. After building the launcher trailer, the radar unit was a breeze. The ladder posed the only challenge — PE rings glued between plastic rails. It’s a fiddly build but looks great finished. The ladder is made of PE steps sandwiched between the two rails of the ladder. Unfortunately, the toolbox interferes with the ladder and prevents it from touching the ground. In Step 22, the directions call for you to snap Part V5 in place on the radar box. But I glued it to the trailer instead and attached the box after painting. I replaced the fiddly PE rivets on the dish with .010" styrene discs. I painted the radar in the indicated NATO camo but deviated from the instructions on the launcher, painting it overall NATO green with a variety of col-

ors on the missile boxes as seen in many operational photos. The decals looked good but are a little thick. Be warned, there are only enough markings for one side of the missile boxes; apply them on the outer surfaces once they are mounted on the trailer. This model is not for the inexperienced, as the many small, fragile parts can be frustrating. But if you are up to it, your perseverance will be rewarded. I took 74 hours to finish both trailers. – Mike Scharf

The decals — there are a lot of them — applied easily but are a little thick. So the edges show, even under a clear coat. Finally, I joined the subassemblies to finish the HEMTT. I spent 54 hours on the tractor and it looks great. At 10" long, it’s impressive by itself. Combine it with the Patriot trailers and it will dominate a shelf. – Mike Scharf

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS By Mark Hembree Trouble with Mr. Surfacer Q I recently used GSI Creos’ Mr. Surfacer 1000 for the first time. When I airbrushed it, fine filaments, like cobwebs, started appearing on the model. In fact, at first I thought I must have moved the model through some cobwebs prior to spraying. Fortunately most of this “cobweb” dissolved into the finish or was easily brushed off after I finished spraying, although a small amount left a “shadow” in the finish. Is this the result of not enough thinning? I used GSI’s Mr. Color Thinner. Is that the right thinner to use? – Peter Kealey Belmont, Victoria, Australia A I don’t do much airbrushing with Mr. Surfacer, but other people have had similar trouble. Here are some ideas: First, you are doing the right thing by using the Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color Thinner. You could add a little Mr. Retarder to slow drying or, better still, use Mr. Leveling Thinner, which has retarder in it. Insufficient thinning is the cause of the cobwebs. Thin it more — most modelers mix it with it at least 50% Mr. Leveling Thinner — and spray at 20-25 psi. Mr. Surfacer can thicken in the bottle, so test the mixture before spraying the model.

Painting the fairer figure Q I recently purchased female figures for a World War II diorama but I cannot find any material on how to paint women, except for a book on Amazon that was over $500. Do you know of any such books? Are there any back issues of FSM that show how? – Tim Strozier Conway, S.C. A Tim, I thought I’d cut straight to the chase and ask a modeler with fine-art qualifications — like Michael Bedard, a great modeler and GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

62 FineScale Modeler July 2016

painter from Cottage Grove, Minn. He says: “I’ll stay away from the nudes (that’s saved for the art museums). The best advice is to make sure that, in any transitions of value changes, the blending is soft and gradual; female skin tends to be softer than male skin. Another general characteristic is that female skin is a bit paler than male skin, and this seems to hold true for all races. Lastly, if the female figure is going to be depicted wearing makeup it is better to be subtle with the color. A lot of modelers — usually male — seem to overdo the makeup. It comes across as clownlike or risqué.” Watch for an upcoming feature on painting female figures in our “Form & Figure” column.

Old decals never die … oh wait, yes they do Q Building aircraft models from my stash of decades-old kits, I found the decals have become brittle with age. Before applying them, I coat them with Microscale Liquid Decal Film so they will stay intact and not break up on application. After spraying Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) on the painted model, applying the decals, and treating them with Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol, I notice that there is some decal crazing. I prick the crazed areas with a pin and apply more decal-setting solution. After waiting some time for the decals to melt into the surface and applying either a gloss or flat surface finish over the decal, the crazing does not disappear. Thus, the completed model is not looking good. Is this just a problem with old decals? – Gabriel “Peter” Rottas Plainview, New York A The quick answer is “Yes.” Old decals are unpredictable. You may be able to preserve them in archival packaging, salvage yellowed decals by bleaching them in sunlight, or coat them with Liquid Decal Film — but, depending on the decals and aging factors, you may put them in water and watch them go to smithereens before your very eyes. If you have a sheet that is suspect, try one of the decals off the model to see how it behaves. Even this is no guarantee — when they’re old, decals from the same sheet may act differently. In the procedure you described, the decal solutions can sometimes react with the PFM. Always allow plenty of time for everything — primer, paint, PFM — to dry before applying the decals. If crazing appears when you apply the decal solutions, cease and let everything

Reader Gallery’s most-viewed images

Q

What’s the most times a model in Reader Gallery has been viewed? – Jay Luschenat Flemington, N.J.

A

Jay, we don’t have records that would allow me to answer accurately. Naturally, there is no way to count views since Reader Gallery first appeared in FineScaleModeler in 1986. In our online Reader Gallery, the longer something has been up, the more views it can have. However, we don’t count “unique views” of a single image online — just the grand total. It did make me curious, though, so I scrolled through a few years just to get an idea. I may have missed something, but it seems the all-time leader is a 1/72 scale U-boat diorama built by Pieter Beneken Kolmer and posted in February 2008 — 18,137 views! Nothing else even comes close. The next-most views were of Mike Walston’s USS Cygnus in the October 2010 gallery (8,986). After that, there are two or three around 8,000, and several between 5,000 and 7,000. Those numbers are displayed with each image, so they are as available to you as they are to me. If you find another image that has had more than 18,000 views, please let us know!

dry for a day or two. Then, before anything else, try some more PFM and some prodding with a pin or the tip of a hobby knife. Sometimes there is a reaction that causes clouding which, oddly, more PFM resolves. In any event, do not apply any more clear finishes or decal solution before you solve the problem. If the crazing does not clear up, you can remove the decals. Failing that, put the model on a higher shelf where the markings are not as easily seen! FSM

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Showing his age, the küchenchef wears a helmet painted during the last war — and it looks like he’ll need it.

W

hether it was said by Frederick the Great or Napoleon, an army marches on its stomach. Modeling on the topic, Cesare Serratore of Padua, Italy, took a Shakespearean approach to cry “Havoc!” and let slip the dogs of war. “It is my irst attempt, and probably the last, to make a humorous diorama,” he says. “Comedy is the most diicult thing to show in a diorama because everyone has a diferent sense of humor.” Cesare employed silent-movie slapstick, but there’s nothing silly about the skill he put into building and painting the actionpacked vignette he calls “Allied Raid.” Tamiya’s 1/35 scale German Field Kitchen (No. 35247) was the centerpiece.

More at www.FineScale.com Cesare provided more than we could tell here. Visit us to see additional photos and descriptions of his painting and weathering. 66 FineScale Modeler July 2016

He says, “When I started the project, this and the older Tamiya 35103 were the only kits available to reproduce a Große Feldküche Hf.13. I needed tons of styrene strip, lots of pieces from my spares box, and some photo-etched parts to improve it. Now you can buy the new Riich.Models kit (35013) that is a more faithful reproduction of the Gulashkanone, saving a lot of your time.” Color modulation painting — a progression from dark colors in lower portions to lighter shades on prominences to mimic the play of light — emphasized the vignette’s numerous elements. “Despite its little dimensions, the kit has many details, such as the pot cover, vents, and pipes, that can be highlighted,” Cesare says. As he directed this scene, an essential part of the drama was the casting. he küchenchef and the dog from which he is trying to snatch victory are from Scale Model Accessories Ltd. (he cook’s original-equipment cleaver was replaced by a ladle for better comic efect, Cesare says.)

he remaining “war dogs” are Doug’s Original Running Hound Dogs (Nos. DO35A05 and DO35A03). Set in May 1940, three of the canines represent branches of the French military; sprinting in from the rear is a pooch from the British Expeditionary Force. heir helmets are Heller spare parts. Nearly as diicult as modeling the kitchen, supplies, cook, and attackers was composing the scene on a 31⁄2"-square base. Cesare says, “In this crowded little space all the elements are close enough to relate, creating a harmonious unity. Every object is overturned, and every piece is falling down or rolling of the base, yet all dogs are pointing to the küchenchef, working together to tell a single story with nothing to distract the view from the vignette’s focal point. his is an important principle you must bear in mind if you want to make a working diorama.” Skillful modeling and a wry sense of humor help, too. FSM

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