If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Help with fitting

To disable ads, please log-in.

I have found the best place for any kind of bike advice is to start here. You gals are the best so far in helping out with any kind of bike issues.

On that note - help!! Last summer I developed tendonitis in my Achilles. I went for a bike fitting, hoping it would help. The guy at the LBS immediately lectured me on the height of saddle. I took it well and lowered the saddle. Well, since then not only does the Achilles tendons still act up but now I have knee pain. The guy at the LBS was kind of a jerk and I came away feeling like he thought I was an idiot and he was the better person. An *** in effect. So now I don't know what to do. I hate paying for yet another fitting simply to have the same experience but this is not working. What I know is that the cleat on my right leg feels off but no matter how much I play with it or ask others to adjust it, I just can't get it right - and that's the leg that hurts. I also know my knees hurt at the saddle height.
Any advice would be helpful. Thank you.

I definitely get Achilles tendon issues from having my saddle too high.

But I wonder if your crankarms aren't too long for you. Your issues sound very similar to mine. If I ride anything longer than 165 mm, my seat height is simultaneously too high at the bottom of the pedal stroke - where I have to reach for the pedal with my toes and cause myself Achilles issues - and too low at the top of the pedal stroke - where I have to flex my knees past 90° and cause myself kneecap tracking problems.

How long are your cranks? How long are your legs? It really has as much to do with tibia/femur ratio as with overall leg length, but inseam might give you a clue.

Also, when you moved your seatpost down, did you also move your saddle back on the rails?

On the cleat that you can't get adjusted enough, which extreme is it at when it hits the limit? (fore, aft, inside, outside, rotated toe-in or toe-out)? That might give you some clues as well.

A) I let the LBS adjust the seat height. B) I did not move the seat back - but I have noticed that I keep pushing my but back now that it's lower. C) My right foot feels like my toes are angled in (and heel out) much more than my left foot (which doesn't feel angled at all). I have an inseam of 28.5 inches. The crank on my road bike is 7.5" and on my Surly 7". Interestingly, my right knee hurts on the Surly while my left hurts on the road bike.

That can't be right. 7.5" is 190mm and I don't think anyone even makes crankarms that long.

Best I could find from cursory googling is that the LHT specs with Andel RSC6 triple cranks, and those appear come only in 175 mm? If that's correct, that's still WAY longer than I'd ever be able to ride with my 29" inseam.

As far as exercises, I went through PT this summer for my Achilles as well - she did a whole lot of mobilization of the bones in my feet, but the home exercises I have are:

(1) One-legged calf raises x 15 each leg. Start with shoes on and progress to barefoot and then to an unstable surface; start with your fingers lightly touching something to hang on (a wall, table or chair back) and progress to no hands.

(2) "Rotating airplane" - come from standing to Warrior III with your arms in "airplane" position and then go directly from there into half moon pose (ardha chandrasana), to rotated half moon pose (pavritta ardha chandrasana) and back three times, then return to standing with knee raised before putting the leg down. Again, start with shoes, progress to barefoot and to an unstable surface. This one's great because it works strength and proprioception in both ankles and hips.

After those strength exercises (which I typically do after a run or ride) I work flexibility:

(3) rolling out my calves with a Stick and my feet with a spiky ball - you could also use a golf ball, spiky stick, walking on pebbles for your feet.

(4) Traditional forward leaning calf stretch, with a wedge under my heel to balance my varus heel and keep my ankle aligned during the stretch; I raise the opposing knee and move it from inside to outside ten times during the stretch.

I know getting my bones "unstuck" helped a lot, but the more I work it, the less trouble I have with my Achilles as I ramp up my running mileage.

Still, it really sounds like you need to get your fit dialed, and unfortunately, you may need to shell for another fitting.

Also, are you riding with your heels up or down? I was told by a cyclist much more experienced than I that keeping your heels "up" while pedaling can lead to the symptoms you describe. Apparently, you should keep your heels "down" at all times (as much as is possible anyway. Works the backsides of your legs nicely on the upstroke if you really concentrate on doing it). Hard for me to remember and every now and then I have to think about it, but I already have knee problems (IT band) so I don't want to tick off my Achilles either.

keeping your heels "up" while pedaling can lead to the symptoms you describe.

True - I'd gotten into the habit of "ankling" (i.e., pumping my toes up and down in sync with the pedal stroke) - both because it was fashionable in the '80s and because (as I said), before I installed 165mm crankarms I had to point my toes to reach the pedals at the bottom of the stroke.

It wasn't until years later when I started having Achilles trouble that I had to unlearn that habit. It was a gradual process of learning to pedal with horizontal feet and lowering my seat height little by little.

Take a look at the back sides of the cranks - the sides towards the frame. There will inevitably be stamped a length. This marking will usually be near where the pedal attaches. It'll be just a plain number like 165, 170, 175, and etc.

While you're checking the crank length, check something else too: Turn the crank until one crank arm points up along the seat tube. Measure the distance from the seat tube to a convenient prominent location on the pedal. Now rotate the cranks so the other crank is pointing up along the other side of the seat tube. Measure the same distance on that side.

Your two measurements should be identical. However, some bikes ship from the factory with the pedals not centered! Most people seem to be able to adapt without noticing the off-centeredness. However, your joint issues might make this an issue for you.

Ok, yes, apparently my ability to "measure" my cranks leaves a bit to be desired. So, with your suggestions - the road bike is 170 and the Surly 165. I definitely was ankling. This season I have worked on keeping my feet flat.
Are there some good questions I can ask a bike shop before shelling out the money for a fitting to know if they are any good. The bike shop I went to supposedly did great fittings but the one the guy did for me sucked. All he looked at was the seat height.

I would simply ask the staff 1) where they were trained in fitting and 2) can they show you a basic breakdown of the process.

When I got my fitting done, he had a logbook where he kept all my records so we always know where the "start" is that he made notes in the entire time. Other than just putting me on the bike and playing around with the string and pendulum thing, he measured my hip flexors and shoulder and all other various body parts off the bike. He was sent by the shop we have here to go learn how to fit professionally as well at one of the various schools out there. I was extremely satisfied with the thoroughness.

Another thought, and I must say I AM SO NOT AN EXPERT. I have horrible achilles tendon issues brought on from backpacking and getting older and favoring a bad knee. I have changed my pedals to Shimano A530 platforms. On a long ride I will often clip out, flip my pedal over and ride a ways unclipped to allow my feet and knees the opportunity to move around. Another suggestion is to trade out your pedals to a platform, do some riding and see if that helps. Perhaps even going so far as to chalk the bottom of your shoe, go for a ride and see where the natural position is for your right foot. I know that sounds a bit corny but I totally get the frustrations of not feeling right on the bike.

+1 as well.
And - since you are already having pain and problems - do not look for fitters in a bike shop, find a Sports Med specialist or a PT that does bike fits instead, or a sports MD/PT that works with a bike fitter. It may take a bit more search to find them, but it will be worth your while.