you can go solid copper, its been done by modders before, hell I even remember a whole case that was part of the loop (not really a case, more of an open air structure from 1/2" copper pipe).

The biggest issue is the cuts are very important because with a rigid system if one pipe is too long it will trow the next fitting off and so on down the line.

In my opinion, I say DO IT!!!!!

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I have a sample of 14" 1/8" ID,1/"4 OD. Do you think 1/4" 3/8" or 3/8" 1/2" would be better/easier to use?

The main problem im having is bending it, I'm probably going to need some special tools to get a very clean bind with no kinks.

I ran water over the top of one end and it was flowing out the other end and I'm not even for sure how fast my flow rate is from my sink.
I tried using my hot water and the pipe got very hot to hold on to(I do have very hot home water Just wish i had a temp prob to get water temp to compare), do you think having copper pipes would increase loop temp? I did try just blowing on the pipe and it would get cooler so I think with a good intake fan blowing on the loop it would be good enough.

I have a sample of 14" 1/8" ID,1/"4 OD. Do you think 1/4" 3/8" or 3/8" 1/2" would be better/easier to use?

The main problem im having is bending it, I'm probably going to need some special tools to get a very clean bind with no kinks.

I ran water over the top of one end and it was flowing out the other end and I'm not even for sure how fast my flow rate is from my sink.
I tried using my hot water and the pipe got very hot to hold on to(I do have very hot home water Just wish i had a temp prob to get water temp to compare), do you think having copper pipes would increase loop temp? I did try just blowing on the pipe and it would get cooler so I think with a good intake fan blowing on the loop it would be good enough.

Side note: Would a temp sensor that uses a laser pick up water temps?

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No special tools required,

cut tubing ~.75" longer than needed
crimp 1 end in a vise or seal end w/ hot glue or plug end w/ bread ( old plumbers trick )
fill tube with water
crimp or seal the 1 remaining open end
place upright in freezer until frozen
now bend to your hearts content - just work fast

use a mandrel of some sort - a sections of pvc pipe a great due to the variety of size

Finally got my WCing set-up. The max temps are 35C and 39C for the GPU and CPU. That's with a case temp of 27C when they are individually at 100% load. I still need to test the case temps when both are simultaneously at 100% load.

Bought myself an MSI 7970 OC (all solid caps) to either replace or add to my current Powercolor LCS 7970. The PC card has a little bit of coil whine and I want zero whine. Little did i know, lots of cards exhibit it a little when you can't hear the fan covering it

So I bought the MSI one as I thought solid caps might help. Well, of course it didn't. Caps don't cause coil whine, chokes do. The whine is tiny though, not really an issue. My PC is damn near silent so I hear even the odd bubble going through the rad.

Anyway, I tried to crossfire the cards but the tubing became an issue as the new block I put on the MSI card doesn't lineup with the inlet of the PC card and tubes don't flex in such a short space.

Anyway, I kept the new card in and at the moment the PC card is for sale (in the forum).

Here's the very similar but different current set up. Both inlet and outlet are on the underside of the card. I replaced the stock MSI fan cooler with the EK CSQ water block, backplate and a single slot I/O plate. It looks pretty neat to be honest.

If I don't sell the other card quick smart, I will persevere with the crossfire build

Anyway, I tried to crossfire the cards but the tubing became an issue as the new block I put on the MSI card doesn't lineup with the inlet of the PC card and tubes don't flex in such a short space.

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If your blocks don't line up exactly, such as mine, it is still possible to use tubing and flex it in such a small length. Cut your tube to the exact length you need, then drop it in boiling water for 15-30 seconds. It will then be pliable enough to jump the angled bridge, even if it is pretty drastic. Here's mine:

Nice work guys. I've got an alternative as well. I have "Y" fittings. I might run my gfx cards in parallel. Means the flow will be reservoir - pump - 480 radiator - cpu - 120 radiator -then it splits to each gfx card and the returns join at another "Y" back to the reservoir.

It does not matter so much as the water temps should be the same no matter which order you go in, but it may make your CPU a little warmer than normal. Typically, the secondary GPU will not get as warm as the primary GPU, so it shouldn't be too bad. I usually try to run CPU -> GPU1 -> GPU2 etc. to get the lowest temps possible on the CPU since it tends to be pickier about heat than a GPU. A watercooled GPU should get nowhere near as hot as an air-cooled GPU. Hell, my GPU load temps under watercooling are lower than my idle GPU temps under air-cooling.

Putting the CPU in a hot section of the loop has always been a no-no. The overall water temp wont change however if you were to check temps pre-CPU and post-CPU they will be high post-CPU same goes for video cards.

I've got the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro. Never had a water cooling system before, but during my new build it wasn't that much more expensive than a good HS/F so I decided to pull the trigger. It is quiet for me and works well!

SO I am looking for a new water block to replace the aging DTek Fuzion V1 I have not that temps are bad with it (40C load), but from what I hear the new chips are a little to hot for them and with the pair of other blocks going on my GPU's I only want a single tear down of the loop.

SO I am looking for a new water block to replace the aging DTek Fuzion V1 I have not that temps are bad with it (40C load), but from what I hear the new chips are a little to hot for them and with the pair of other blocks going on my GPU's I only want a single tear down of the loop.

I've just spent a mini fortune on more water cooling parts. Due to the heat from my GPU's, the cpu temp is rising more, so I've decided to split the loop and run a dual loop with two separate systems.

Going to run the gfx cards in a parallel loop from my 120.4 SR-1 radiator and the CPU is going to run from two 120.1 XTX Coolstream radiators in series. Ordered a second D5 pump for the new cpu only loop.

I'll post pics once my cursing and swearing is all finished when i build it up.

I've just spent a mini fortune on more water cooling parts. Due to the heat from my GPU's, the cpu temp is rising more, so I've decided to split the loop and run a dual loop with two separate systems.

Going to run the gfx cards in a parallel loop from my 120.4 SR-1 radiator and the CPU is going to run from two 120.1 XTX Coolstream radiators in series. Ordered a second D5 pump for the new cpu only loop.

I'll post pics once my cursing and swearing is all finished when i build it up.