Toast the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds in a small skillet over low heat, shaking the pan frequently. As soon as they release their aroma, after a few minutes, turn them onto a plate to cool.

By hand: In a large mortar, mash the toasted seeds, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cayenne until broken down. Add the chickpeas, oil and cilantro and mash until smooth. Season the purée with lemon juice and salt to taste.

In a blender or food processor: Coarsely chop the garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, cayenne, oil and cilantro with 1/4 cup water. Add the spice and chickpeas and purée until smooth.

Pour the purée into a dish, make a depression in the middle, and fill with a spoonful of olive oil.