For many years people regarded Sardinia as astoundingly beautiful, exceptionally rugged, and something of a nightmare to explore. Broad tracks often led to networks of paths, many of which simply petered out in the dense macchia. When I was asked to check out a selection of walking routes on the island, my experience matched that of so many previous visitors. However, I was lucky, as part-way through my initial exploration, I literally stumbled across a newly-planted signpost, and later discovered that an extensive network of waymarked trails was being blazed across the island.

My first visit to Sardinia was largely concentrated around the limestone coastal region of Ogliastra, and the rugged mountains of the Supramonte further inland. Although it was early summer, the temperature soared and the heat made any kind of exertion quite tiring. Towards the end I headed further inland, to the high mountains of Gennargentu, in the hope of catching a cooling breeze. My next visit took place at the tail-end of winter. It was still quite warm down by the coast, while inland the mountains were streaked with snow. In fact, for three nights running there were fresh snowfalls, so that all the high mountains were completely covered.

Sardinia is a huge island - the same size as Wales, but more difficult to get around because the roads are so convoluted and slow. Having met many walkers who were burning themselves out by trying to discover walks all the way round the island in periods of only one or two weeks, it seemed best to concentrate on the highest and wildest regions, where some of the most scenic and most popular walks are located. The fifty routes in the guidebook are spread around the Ogliastra, Supramonte and Gennargentu regions, stretching from the cliff coastline to the highest mountains. Some of the paths need to be followed carefully through dense macchia, while others are fully signposted and waymarked.

While following routes through the mountains of Sardinia, walkers often discover fascinating archaeological sites. There are Neolithic rock tombs, or ‘domus de janas’, as well as stone-built burial chambers, or ‘tomba dei giganti’, along with prominent and sometimes extensive defensive Bronze Age ‘Nuraghic’ settlements. The route descriptions mention such sites, as well as all the useful facilities along the way, such as handy bars and restaurants, bus services and accommodation.