stevebills wrote:I have to say the MT5 brakes on my new 52 Bomber are shit they normally last 4 weeks and are not make for speed
I need carbon brakes off a Formula one car

Steve, I am not trying to disagree with you for the sake of starting a dispute/argument, but something is major wrong with either your brakes or riding style if you are only getting 4 weeks out of your MT5. I have the MT2 on my modded Figther. I have over a 1000 miles on them, and even though the pads are getting close to metal to metal, They still have some life left in them. Are you riding your brakes? Have they been correctly bled? Sorry for the basic questions, just want to rule out some possibilities.

Rick,
I agree 4 weeks is a bit crazy but on the flip side I do run through pads on my bomber w mt 4's.in a few months. I've tried both the endurance and performance pads. Much faster than I thought. And I have never been terribly impressed with the lever travel or feel on the Maguras. Now this has been kicked around a bit on this thread and there are "fixes" for the lever travel issue but honestly there are so many other superior braking systems out there why bother trying to hack them. As soon as I get a second I'm going to switch over to Saints. prob will happen in the fall. I won't use the center lock rotors though. The Maguras have always been a weak point for me. The bike is a bit heavy and big and is pushing a bit beyond the limits of the Maguras.
Saints, Formula, Avid, or Hope have proper downhill bike brakes that seem to be much more robust then the Maguras. My 2 cents…

Rick on your bomber how long have the pads lasted? Mine are about 500 miles (for the fronts) at the most

Rix wrote:BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel

stevebills wrote:I have to say the MT5 brakes on my new 52 Bomber are shit they normally last 4 weeks and are not make for speed
I need carbon brakes off a Formula one car

Steve, I am not trying to disagree with you for the sake of starting a dispute/argument, but something is major wrong with either your brakes or riding style if you are only getting 4 weeks out of your MT5. I have the MT2 on my modded Figther. I have over a 1000 miles on them, and even though the pads are getting close to metal to metal, They still have some life left in them. Are you riding your brakes? Have they been correctly bled? Sorry for the basic questions, just want to rule out some possibilities.

Are you using som organic pads maybe? Use sintered for longevity.
Nice picture Rix! I hope we will have some new battery tech for cheap soon, thanks to thats factory.

Rick on your bomber how long have the pads lasted? Mine are about 500 miles (for the fronts) at the most[/quote]

My old Bomber front brakes are the old Gator 6 Pot calipers with a large brake fluid Reservoir running a 228mm disk Rotor. It has 10,000 miles on them and they haven't been replaced yet as there is still some pad left before hitting metal to metal. The rear is stock 6 piston Gator caliper with a 203mm rotor, and its worn even less. My Fighter is a different story, I am coming up on 1,000 miles, and my front brake pads on the MT Magura will need to be replaced soon. I will probably hit 1100 miles before they are metal to metal. I just put a 228mm rotor on the front as well. If I had that sooner, I would have gotten a little more miles out of them. As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.

Rix wrote:BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel

They probably have cameras around Rick.

For sure Rod, Sanyo is partnered with Tesla and the initial building was 5 Billion dollars. Now Tesla has acquired tons more land around the site and plans on building way way bigger. The building will be so big that it could be measured in square miles instead of square feet, which I am told will be in the millions. But I got a plan, you can see in the background of the photo there are mountains and ridges about 4-5 miles away. I can get to them. So the plan is to ride the Fighter over in that crap, and see if I can get some photos of area. Naturally if I see signage that says no photographs, then I wont take any, but I am betting there isn't any on the mountains. To be continued............

stevebills wrote:I have to say the MT5 brakes on my new 52 Bomber are shit they normally last 4 weeks and are not make for speed
I need carbon brakes off a Formula one car

Steve, I am not trying to disagree with you for the sake of starting a dispute/argument, but something is major wrong with either your brakes or riding style if you are only getting 4 weeks out of your MT5. I have the MT2 on my modded Figther. I have over a 1000 miles on them, and even though the pads are getting close to metal to metal, They still have some life left in them. Are you riding your brakes? Have they been correctly bled? Sorry for the basic questions, just want to rule out some possibilities.

Are you using som organic pads maybe? Use sintered for longevity.
Nice picture Rix! I hope we will have some new battery tech for cheap soon, thanks to thats factory.

4 weeks is a bit of a lie they last around 6 weeks and i only use the bke at weekend on the road and park and the Mt5's are not made for 45+ mph it eats them up

Rix wrote:As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!

Rix wrote:BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel

What an incredible building...apparently this is just the pilot plant. It will eventually be 4 times the size.

Rix wrote:As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!

Thx for the tips but Ive tried all of the above. Including the "new bleed procedure" check out the following vids and forum. This is a common problem W the Magura MT series. In doing research there are many threads about it.

Rix wrote:As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!

Thx for the tips but Ive tried all of the above. Including the "new bleed procedure" check out the following vids and forum. This is a common problem W the Magura MT series. In doing research there are many threads about it.

Top of the range Mtb's dont use Magura brakes for a reason they are not the best out there
any if they did they would be Mt8 brakes and not the crappy 2 or 5's
Shimano are the best and should be on a Bomber for the money you spend
thx
steve

If anyone's Stealth brakes wear out unreasonably fast, then they might be dragging them or something else is abnormal. Such as the caliper pistons sticking, or crap pads or a warped rotor or too much grit on the rotors.

I depend on good braking power. On average around twice per week, I ride on trails with hard on/off brake usage. Often around mud unfortunately, and my pads are lasting quite well. Just cheap sintered pads off eBay. Original pads expired after maybe 6 months. My rotors are noticeably worn, but still OK.

Regarding brake power:

If anyone wants more powerful MT2s, then I'm totally with voicecoils on the bleeding. Also you can add a plastic cup inside the lever socket to get the lever grab point further from the grip.

Larger diam rotors are an option (at least with the Fighter swingarm and my DNM forks) and in my experience with motorbikes that makes a huge difference.

Rix wrote:As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!

I need to get a caliper insert spacer for bleeding properly. You can bleed the brakes with out one, but you can't touch the lever. Basically just opening the bleeder valve and pushing fluid up to the lever reservoir. It works, but it can hide other problems. One thing about these brakes is if you notice a lot of lever travel and its not from air bubbles in the line, its a good indicator that the pads are wearing close to the metal and need to be replaced, but the way I bleed, you will never have that, the lever doesn't increase range so you cant base travel on wear. But, to see wear, its as simple as looking at your pads and seeing how thin they are and need replacing. All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.

If anyone's Stealth brakes wear out unreasonably fast, then they might be dragging them or something else is abnormal. Such as the caliper pistons sticking, or crap pads or a warped rotor or too much grit on the rotors.

I depend on good braking power. On average around twice per week, I ride on trails with hard on/off brake usage. Often around mud unfortunately, and my pads are lasting quite well. Just cheap sintered pads off eBay. Original pads expired after maybe 6 months. My rotors are noticeably worn, but still OK.

Regarding brake power:

If anyone wants more powerful MT2s, then I'm totally with voicecoils on the bleeding. Also you can add a plastic cup inside the lever socket to get the lever grab point further from the grip.

Larger diam rotors are an option (at least with the Fighter swingarm and my DNM forks) and in my experience with motorbikes that makes a huge difference.

Yah, that's why I am running 228mm rotors up front. Braking power. I found a website that sells 255mm rotors for Tandem Mountain bikes, but at $155 dollars, its spendy.

Rix wrote:BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel

What an incredible building...apparently this is just the pilot plant. It will eventually be 4 times the size.

[]

That's a neat vid. At 1:02, behind the ridge in the upper left is where the guard station is. Yah their looking at expanding that building by 3x times its size, local news article. I really want to get my own eyes on this thing, The running joke between my boss and I is we both quite and become security guards for Tesla's Gigafactory.

Rix wrote: All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.

Magura calls it the "transport devices" and it serves dual purpose of keeping pads apart for transport or flip it around to bleed with pads removed.

The newest version are thinner than they used to be for the exact reason of improving lever feel after bleeding.

If you want one Rix PM me your address. I'll be in the US in 3 weeks so can post it to you from there for nix.

Rix wrote: All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.

Magura calls it the "transport devices" and it serves dual purpose of keeping pads apart for transport or flip it around to bleed with pads removed.

The newest version are thinner than they used to be for the exact reason of improving lever feel after bleeding.

If you want one Rix PM me your address. I'll be in the US in 3 weeks so can post it to you from there for nix.

Hyena wrote:Do it Rix! Are they advertising yet ?
Rock up there on your fighter and give Elon a demo. He might just offer you a job on the spot
You might even get armed with a prototype plasma rifle

Yah, you know where my head is. Seriously though, could be career option. Once I am in, I can do security patrols through the R&D and see what kind of batter options are there I wish All I am looking for is a 16-20s 40ah battery that can fit in the palm of my hand and weighs 3 pounds.

Mid-ride, this afternoon with 1/2 battery capacity left, the throttle response ceased; toggled the keyswitch a couple of times while still riding (CA's LCD toggled off/on with key position) but still no throttle response. Tried again a minute later and the CA LCD no longer lit up.

Plugged the bike in @home and charging proceeded as per normal.
1/2 hr later I unplugged the charger from the bike, tore off the side panels & fiddled with the connectors - no change.
Found multimeter: measured 0 & infinite Ohms on plug to keywsitch for on/off positions.

Not sure how to proceed, other than dragging it down to the (nearby) dealer.
Can I further isolate the problem @home or will it be a matter of parts swapping until it works again?

Mid-ride, this afternoon with 1/2 battery capacity left, the throttle response ceased; toggled the keyswitch a couple of times while still riding (CA's LCD toggled off/on with key position) but still no throttle response. Tried again a minute later and the CA LCD no longer lit up.

Plugged the bike in @home and charging proceeded as per normal.
1/2 hr later I unplugged the charger from the bike, tore off the side panels & fiddled with the connectors - no change.
Found multimeter: measured 0 & infinite Ohms on plug to keywsitch for on/off positions.

Not sure how to proceed, other than dragging it down to the (nearby) dealer.
Can I further isolate the problem @home or will it be a matter of parts swapping until it works again?

TIA

Hmm sounds like the pack. It might be more like swapping a cell not a part. Of course your pack might be nearing its end of life in which case you might want to get a new pack. Best to contact tech@stealthelectricbikes.com

[edit] Rereading this, it could also be the controller. A couple of years ago I had a rare combo fault of both a blown FET and a cell. I had to send the controller and the pack for repairs...I thought it would takes ages to repair but was amazed when I was back riding again a week or 2 later.

Rix wrote:All I am looking for is a 16-20s 40ah battery that can fit in the palm of my hand and weighs 3 pounds.

Elon keeps those for his electric jetpack Actually regular, everyday Model S cells are probably the most energy dense and hard to kill of any available right now.