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There are a number of places to get pupusas in downtown Santa Ana, including loncheras, but the best combination of fast and delicious is at Las Casuelas, which is plopped down on Bush Street next to a small hair salon and just off bustling Fourth Street.

There are the usual Mexican dishes on the menu, but there's a list of Salvi specialities usually involving beans, plantains and crema, and pupusas. While the frijol con queso isn't technically on the menu, the pupusas are hand-patted to order, so you can have whatever you like in it.

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Whatever you order, there will be a plastic jug of curtido (Salvadoran slaw) and a dish of incendiary salsa put on your table; both of these are as necessary as Fire Sauce is to a Taco Bell bean-and-cheese burrito. The cheese may have leaked out; this only enhances the taste, because it crisps on the comal.

They come three to an order, or you can order them à la carte; I've never been able to eat more than two at a sitting.