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AT
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PERFUMERY
LONDON : PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET
THE ART OF
PERFUMERY
AND THE METHODS OF OBTAINING THE
ODOURS OF PLANTS
THE GROWTH AND GENERAL
FLOWER FARM SYSTEM
OF RAISING FRAGRANT HERBS
WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF,
SCENTED POWDERS, ODOROUS VINEGARS AND SALTS, SNUFF, DENTIFRICES,
COSMETICS, PERFUMED SOAP, ETC.
To 'which is added an Appendix on
PREPARING ARTIFICIAL FRUIT-ESSENCES <S-t.
BY
G. W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE, Ph.D., F.C.S.
ANALYTICAL CHEMIST
AUTHOR OF
CHEMICAL, NATURAL, AND PHYSICAL MAGIC ' 'THE LABORATORY OF CHEMICAL WONDERS' ETC
FOURTH EDITION
LONDON
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
1879
A II rights reserved
PREFACE
TO
THE FOURTH EDITION.
"D Y universal consent the physical faculties of man have
J—' been divided into five senses, — seeing, hearing, touching,
tasting, and smelling. It is of matter pertaining to the last-
mentioned faculty that this book mainly treats. Of the five
senses, that of smelling is the least valued, and, as a consequence,
is the least tutored ; but from this, our own act, we must not
conclude that it is of insignificant importance to our welfare
and happiness.
By neglecting to tutor the sense of smelling, we are con-
stantly led to breathe impure air, and thus poison the body
by neglecting the warning given at the gate of the lungs.
Persons who use perfumes are more sensitive to the presence
of a vitiated atmosphere than those who consider the faculty
of smelling as an almost useless gift.
In the early ages of the world perfumes were constantly
used, and they had the high sanction of Scriptural authority.
The patrons of perfumery have always been considered
the most civilised and refined people in the world. If refine-
PREFACE TO
ment consists in knowing how to enjoy the faculties which we
possess, then must we learn not only how to appreciate the
harmony of colour and form, in order to please the sight ; the
melody of sweet sounds, to delight the ear ; the comfort of
appropriate fabrics, to cover the body, and to please the touch ;
but the smelling faculty must be shown how to gratify itself
with the odoriferous products of the garden and the forest.
Pathologically considered, the use of perfumes is in the
highest degree prophylactic ; the refreshing fefeling imparted
by the citrine odours to an invalid is well known. The occa-
sional sacrifice of incense in the fever chamber will prevent
infection. The odours of plants are all antiseptic.
The commercial value of flowers is of no mean importance
to the wealth of nations. But, vast as is the consumption of
perfumes by the people under the rule of the British Empire,
little has been done in England, either at home or in her
tropical colonies, towards the establishment of flower-farms,
or the production of the raw odorous substances in demand by
the manufacturing perfumers of Britain ; consequently, nearly
the whole are the produce of foreign countries.
The climate of some of the British colonies especially fits
them for the production of odours from flowers that require
elevated temperature to bring them to perfection. ,.
But for the lamented death of Mr. Charles Piesse," Colonial
Secretary for Western Australia, flower-farms would doubtless
have been established in that colony long ere the publication
of this work. Though thus personally frustrated in adapting
a new and useful description of labour to British enterprise, I
am no less sanguine of the final results in other hands.
Horticulturists being generally unacquainted with the
' Brother of the Author.
THE FOURTH EDITION.
methods of economising the scents from the flowers they
cultivate, entirely lose what would otherwise" be a profitable
source of income. For many ages the Cornish miners, while
working the tin streams, threw the copper ore over the cliffs
into the sea. How much wealth was "thus cast away by
ignorance, we know not ; but there is a perfect parallel be'tween
the old miners and the modern gardeners.
For more than a century prior to the Victorian era, per-
fumes, were out of favour in England ; the people were of the
idea.of Socrates, who objected to the use of perfumery alto-
gether. In these modern days, however, civilisation, has re-
vived, and there is restored with it one of its concomitants.
It is mentioned in ' Chambers's Cyclopaedia,' published in
1740, that perfumes were disiised here (in England), but were
a la mode in Italy and Spain.
In 1822, the first book devoted to this subject appeared in
our language ; it was the work of Charles Lilly, edited by
Colvin Mackenzie. Mr. Lilly is described as ' that celebrated
perfumer at the corner of Beaufort Buildings, in the Strand,'
and who was spoken of in the Spectator, Tatler, and Guardian.
Now, judging this v/ork to represent the knowledge of the art
of perfumery in this country at that period, it must be ad-
mitted that it was very imperfect : a century of neglect had
done its work, and the art had been lost.
Five- and-twehty years elapsed, and the whole commerce
of England began to show considerable vitality. The founding
of the Australian colonies, the discovery of gold in California
and in Australia, the introduction of railways, the application
of steam to shipping, and other causes, has produced a great
increase in our commerce. Amongst other things the export
of perfumery has increased.
PREFACE TO
In Italy, Sardinia, Sicily, and Southern France, some half-
dozen flowers — jasmine, rose, acacia, orange, bergamot, tube-
reuse, and violet — are extensively grown for perfumery, and are
now easily imported for manufacture into England. Tropical
produce, together with musk, ambei^ris, castor, and other raw
materials for the perfumer's laboratory, comes to the British
market before it reaches Continental cities. There is, there-
fore, no natural reason why the perfumery trade should not
take the highest position in this country : even if it does
not exceed that of Germany and France, it might at least
equal it.
The excise duty on spirits of wine, however, prevents
England from fairly competing in her own colonies with her
German and French neighbours in this particular trade. . The
spirit used by the perfumery factors of England pays twelve
shillings per gallon duty ; this three hundred per cent, on the
value of the raw material checks the art of perfumery. Till
recently there was an excise duty on paper, which did not
exist on the Continent ; all sorts of ornamental card boxes for
packing were employed there, giving elegance and neatness to
the goods, which in England it was vain to attempt with
excised paper. In like manner there was an excise duty on
soap. Refined scented soap was only known as a luxury, and
of course this was a check to the perfumery trade. When
this excise was removed, perfumers immediately sent large
quantities of scented soap into the market, and it has now
come into ordinary use.
Recently France has reduced the import duty on soap
from 174/. to 6/. the 100 kilogrammes. Portugal has been
equally wise : English perfumers are already in these markets.
A great impetus was given to the perfumery trade by the
THE FOURTH EDITION.
removal of the excise duty on glass. France used to ship all
her perfumery in stoppered bottles, but England had to be
content with a cork. It was well known that scented spirit
could not be preserved very well in a corked bottle ; and
essences sent from England to Calcutta, in the old corked
bottles, suffered ten per cent, ullage. Prior to the removal of
the excise on glass, 2-oz. stoppered bottles were costing
6j. 3^. per dozen ; but now they are to be had for 2s. 6d., to
the great benefit of the perfumery trade.
Transparent soap was the invention of an Englishman;
yet he is still prevented from reaping the benefit of his valu-
able invention by the excise duty on the spirit which is
necessary for its manufacture. The consequence is that German
and American transparent soap is imported into England to
the detriment of our trade. I do not view these excise
duties on trade products as affecting the individual manu-
facturer, because it is admitted that the individual must suffer
for the multitude ; but in consequence of these excise duties
the source of revenue (commerce) is withered in the germ. It
is true that under ' certain regulations ' perfumers can ' ex-
port ' scented spirit free from duty ; but the expenses incurred
in doing so are so great that they all but equal the benefit
derived.
So long as ' bonded ' warehouses are used, all the manu-
facturing perfumers renting them should be housed together
in one block or building in order to facilitate the work of the
ganger, locker, clearing agent, and other functionaries ; also
to enable the various laboratories to be supplied with steam
heat ; for without such aid, during four months of our year, but
little and very unsatisfactory work within the docks now so
used can be done. The cold there congeals the otto of roses,
PREFACE TO
and renders turbid many essences. Again, the workmen em-
ployed in 'capping' bottles are also much delayed by the
cold, and suffer in health.
Female labour, so useful in this business, is prohibited by
present regulations within ' bonded ' warehouses. The work-
men are also injured in the matter of their wages, as at present
the regulations are — ' no man is allowed to work after 4 o'clock ;'
the dock gates then close. Thus, for about eight months in the
year, every man has to idle his time for at least three hours
daily. These things, fairly considered, are a hard 'set-off'
against the English manufacturing perfumers compared with
the facilities given by the French Government to the same
trade.
I am pained to say that, for want of a generous unity
among the English perfumery merchants, there has been
hitherto no concerted action, by deputation or otherwise,
in making their especial grievances known to the Board of
Trade. The Times truly observed : ' There certainly never was
a tinie when it was more imperative that trade and handicrafts
should be free from all restraint.'
Still the English perfumery trade is rapidly advancing,
and finding favour from Brazil to New York, from Australia
to India and Russia. I think I am justified in saying that
this favour is not ill bestowed, for England now produces
the finest perfumery in the world.
If this work has contributed in any measure to raise the
manufacture of perfumery in England to its present mer-
cantile importance, my labours have not been in vain ; and I
am happy in thus adding to the industrial resources of my
country.
The exportation of perfumery has exactly doubled in
THE FOURTH EDITION.
value since the date of the first edition of this work ; and this,
too, in spite of the almost prohibitory tariff levied by our
Indiaiji Government, and the cessation of trade with the two
Americas.
To my German translator, to my two y\merican reprinters,
and to my French and Italian translators, I commend the
present edition.
G. W. SEPTIMUS PIESSE.
2 New Bond Street, London, W.
October 1879.
CONTENTS
ION
1. INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY . ...
II. THEORY OF ODOURS ... . .
III. FLOWER-FARMING STATISTICS . . . .
IV. EXPRESSION, DISTILLATION, ABSORPTION, ENFLEURAGE, MACE-
RATION . .
V. PRIMITIVE ODOURS . .
THE COMMERCIAL ELEMENTS ...
VI. PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN
VII. SMELLING SALTS, SNUFF, AND VINEGARS ....
VIII. BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS
IX. SACHET POWDERS AND INCENSE . . . .
X. PERFUMED SOAP ... . . .
XI. EMULSINES . .
XIL MILKS, OR EMULSIONS . . . .
XIII. COLD CREAM ... . . ,
XIV. POMADES AND OILS
XV. HAIR-DYES AND DEPILATORY . ....
XVI. ABSORBENT POWDERS AND ROUGES
XVII. TOOTH-POWDERS AND MOUTH-WASHES
XVIII. HAIR-WASHES ....
XIX. OF THE COLOURS USED BY PERFUMERS ....
XX. FOREIGN TARIFFS ON PERFUMERY . . . .
APPENDIX . .
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Lavender Still at Mitcham, Surrey Frontispiece
The Golden Rose . . . . . . . 12
Seven-branched Candlestick . .... 10
Ancient Sweet Coffer and Modern Vinaigrette . . . 19
The Gamut of Odours . . ..... 48, 49
Pipette, to draviT off small Portions of Otto from Water . . -73
Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Water, and Spirit from Oil . . 74
French Stills . .... . -75
Syphon Still . ... 76
Portable Still and Worm Tub ... . . 78
Florentine Recipients . . . . . 80
Section of Bain-Marie ... . . . . 81
Chassis en Verre .... . . 82
ChSssis en Fer -83
Screw-press . . ... .84
Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery . . . . 85
Almond . ..... 88
Anise ... . 91
Anise (starry), or Badiani 92
Styrax Benzoin ... . . 98
Bergamot . . ... . . loi
Camphor Tree . . 103
Branch of Camphor Tree . • ■ ... 104
Acacia Famesiana (flower heads natural size) . . 107
Citronella Grass ... . . ... 115
Clove ... . . 116
Dill ..... . 117
Scent-jfielding Geranium . 1 24
a
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Ecuelle . . • •
Hibiscus
Musk Seed and Section .
Orange
Nutmeg with Mace upon it
Nutmeg
Orris Root
Patchouly .
Wliite Mint
Black Mint
PAGE
Flowers and Fruit of Cananga Odorata ... ■ -13°
Champaca (Michelia Champaca), or False Hang ■ ■ '31
Jasmin Grandiflora • -34
Gathering Jasmine Blossoms . ... ... 13
Mitcham Lavender Field, near the Crystal Palace, Surrey . . 140
Lemon Grass and Section
147
150
156
160
16S
167
172
175
180
181
Pimento ... . • .187
SantalWood . -201
Spikenard ... . , -204
Storax . -205
Dipterix Odorata ■ .210
Tonquin Bean (natural size) . . . . 211
Tonquin Bean in Pod • . . 212
Tubereuse .... ... 214
Vanilla Plant . . ... ... 21$
Bundle of Vanilla as imported . . • 216
Vitivert . . ... . . 224
Sperm or Ambergris Whale . . . • 237
Cuttle-fish Beak . • 238
Castor-pods ... . .240
Castor Beaver . . . . 241
Civet Cat . ... . 243
Viverra Civetta ■ . 245
Viverra Zibetha . . 245
Head of Musk Deer . 248
Musk-pod (actual size) . 250
Musk Deer .... .... .258
Musk-pods of Bengal (upper and lower surfaces) . . 259
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Cabardien, or Russian Musk-pods
Musk-pods of China (opposite sides)
Chinese Drawings of the Method of obtaining Musk
Chinese Chop-paper
Fountain Finger Ring .... . .
The Pomander .... . .
Drying House . .....
High Priest and Altar
The Censer .........
Silver Incense-case found in Whittlesea Mere, Cambridgeshire
Perfume Lamp ...
Fumigating Vase ........
Evaporators ....
Frame and Slab Soap Gauge
Barring Gauge : Squaring Gauge ...
Grinding Machine ... . . .
Rolling Machine
Peloteuse . . ...
Soap Press . . .....
Soap Scoop
Moulds . ....
Chipping Machine . .
Brunot's Pounding Machine
Beyer Brothers' Rolling Machine .....
Rolling Machine (modeleuse) ......
Pulveriser . . ....
Mixer, for Oil and Spirit
Extraction Press ......
Soaping the Plane ....
Oil Runner in Emulsine Process
PAGE
. 260
. . 260
261, 262
30s
308
318
3«9
324
327
328, 329
334
• 335
• • 336
337
338
339. 340
341
34'
343
344
346
347
348
349
350
354
366
V
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
, SECTION I.
By Nature's swift and secret working hand
The garden glows, and fills the liberal air
With lavish odours.
There let me draw
Ethereal soul, there drink reviving gales,
Profusely breathing from the spicy groves
And vales of fragrance. — Thomson.
THE hand of the Creator has lavished upon flowers all
the resources of its infinite skill. Set upon stems per-
fect in grace and delicacy, painted in the brightest, most
diversified, and most harmonious colours, and impregnated
with the most exquisite fragrance, flowers occupy an im-
portant place in the system of nature.
Among the numerous gratifications derived from their
cultivation, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes
stands pre-eminent. It is proved, from the oldest records,
that perfumes have been in use from the earliest periods.
The origin of this, like that of many other art.s, is lost in the
«^ B
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
depth of its antiquity ; though it had its rise, no doubt, in
religious observances. Among the nations of antiquity, an
offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most
profound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense
which exudes by incision and dries as a g.um, from Arbor
thurifera, was formerly burned in the temples of all religions,
in honour of the divinities that were there adored. The
granite tablet attached to the breast of the Great Sphinx of
Egypt (the top of which may still be seen above the sand)
formed the end of a sanctuary, and on it King Thothmes IV.
is represented offering on one side incense, on the other a liba-
tion of oil or ointment. Many of the primitive Christians were
put to death because they would not offer incense to idols.
The origin of perfumery Pliny traces to the East ; and his opinion is
fully borne out by the inspired writers, whose frequent allusions to per-
fumes and aromatics prove the very early and extensive employment of
the luxury by nations in whose land flourish the aloe, cinnamon, sandal
wood, camphor, nutmeg, and cloves ; the incense tree which it was the
sacred privilege of the Sabasi to gather, the balsam trees, the sorrowful
nyctenthes which pours forth its rich odours in the twilight, the Nilica in
whose blossoms the bees are said to hum themselves to sleep, and the
sweet Elcaya ;— these, and a forest of others, are the property of the East,
and for ages were disregarded by the rest of the world. Among the
Chinese, whose sensualism is so refined, says M. Claye, perfumes are
largely employed in their worship, their pleasures, and their domestic
pursuits. Odorous woods and resins are burnt before their altars and
mixed with their viands. The disciples of Zoroaster used to offer their
prayers before altars on which the sacred fire was kindled, and five times
a day the priests laid on it wood and perfumes. In Greek mythology the
invention and use of perfumes is attributed to the Immortals ; and, ac-
cording to the fables, men derived their knowledge of them from the
mdiscretiori of jEone, one of the nymphs of Venus. Homer speaks of
perfumes in connection with the divinities. Whenever the Olympian
gods honoured a mortal with their visits, they left behind them an am-
brosial odour, an unequivocal token of their divine nature. The practice
of anointing the bodies of the dead was not confined to the Jews ; all the
nations of antiquity appear to have practised the same ceremonial. Thus
we read in Homer,' that
' Iliad, xxiii. 185, sq.
HISTORY.
' Venus, night and day,
Daughter of Jove, . . .
AH the corpse o'erlaid with roseate oil,
Ambrosial.'
The Greeks, moreover, were much addicted to perfumes, and the art of
the perfumer was remarkably advanced among them. They carried their
affectation to such a length as to keep their clothes in scented chests, as
we learn from Homer in reference to Ulysses, And, according to
Athenaeus, they made use of scent-bags for sweetening the air as they
sat at table. Like the Romans, they were accustomed to crown themselves
with roses at their feasts, and the most esteemed wines of the Athenians
were perfumed with violets, roses, and other aromatics. The wine of
Byblos in Phoenicia was especially remarkable in this respect. Solon
attempted by one of his laws to restrain the excessive indulgence. Among
the Lacedsemonians, the luxury was always discountenanced, and perfumers
were expelled the city as wasters of oil, upon the same principle that they
dismissed all who dyed wool because they destroyed its whiteness. In
Athens the case was different : in spite of Solon's prohibition a taste for
perfumery grew apace, and its indulgence was brought to a higher pitch
of refinement than it has ever enjoyed before or since. Though the East
supplied the Athenians with the most valued gums and ointments, they
added largely to the stock of fragrant plants already in use. ApoUonius,
of Herophila, wrote a treatise on perfume : — ' The iris,' he says, ' is best at
Elis, and at Cyzicus ; perfume from roses is most excellent at Phasalis,
Naples, and Capua ; that made from crocuses is in highest perfection at
Soli, in Cilicia, and at Rhodes ; the essence of spikenard is best at Tanius ;
the extract of vine-leaves at Cyprus, and at Adramyttium ; the best per-
fume from marjoram, and from apples comes from Cos ; Egypt bears the
palm for its essence of Cyprinus, and the next best is the Cyprian and
Phoenician, and after them comes the Sidonian ; the perfume called Pa-
nathenaicum is made at Athens ; and those called Metopian and Mende-
sian are prepared with the greatest skill in Egypt.' Still the superior
excellence of each perfume is owing to the purveyors, and the materials,
and the artists, and not to the place itself.
The boxes in which the unguents were carried were generally made of
alabaster, highly ornamented, and must have formed an expensive item
in the jeweller's bill. Vases of onyx were also in use. But if we may
believe a passage in the ' Settler ' of Alexis,' even this extravagance has
been exceeded.
' For he t' anoint himself
Dipped not his finger into alabaster,
> A Greek comic poet, flourished about B.C. 350.
B 2
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The vulgar practice of a former age ;
But he let fly four doves, with unguents drenched,
Not of one sort, but every bird a perfume bore
Peculiar, and differing from the rest ;
And they hov'ring around us, from their heavy wings
Showered their sweets upon our robes and furniture.
And I — be not too envious, gentlemen,- —
I was myself bedewed with violet odours ! '
The room in which an entertainment was given was always perfumed
either by burning incense or sprinkling the furniture with scented waters
— an unnecessary measure, when we consider the lavish manner in which
the guests were anointed. Each portion of the body had its appropriate
oil or essence. Mint was recommended for the arms ; palm-oil for the
jaws and breasts ; the eyebrows and hair were anointed with an unguent
extracted from marjoram ; the knees and neck with the essence of ground
ivy. This last was beneficial at drinking parties, as also was the per-
fume obtained from roses ; the quince yielded an essence suitable to the
lethargic and dyspeptic ; the perfume extracted from vine-leaves kept the
mind clear, and that from white violets was good for digestion.
In Greece, the perfumers' shops were open to all comers. They were
used as gossiping places, where affairs of State were discussed, fashions
decreed, and tales of scandal told. So that it was common at Athens to
say, Come to the perfumer's, as at Paris, Come to the cafd
The fashion of anointing the head at banquets is said to have arisen
from an idea that the heating effects of wine would be better borne when
the head was wet, just as a patient who labours under a burning fever is
relieved by the application of a lotion. Aristotle proved that his habits
of observation had led him to a different and truer conclusion, when he
attributed the frequent occurrence of grey hair to the drying nature of
the spices employed in the unguents. Nor did he stand alone in con-
demnmg their excessive use. It was not without a meaning that Sophocles
represented Venus, the goddess of pleasure, perfumed, and looking in a
mirror; and Mmei-va, goddess of intellect and virtue, as using oil and
gymnastic exercises. Chrysippus sought in the derivation of the word
an objection to the luxury; but the attempt was so far-fetched as fairly to
expose hirn to the satire of an ancient wit, that ' if there were no physicians,
there would be nothing in the world so stupid as grammarians '
Socrates disapproved of all perfumes. ' There is the same smell,' he
said, in a slave and a gentleman, when both are perfumed ;' a remark
that made httle impression upon his pupil ^schines, who turned per-
fumer, fell into debt, and attempted to borrow money upon the strength
of his business. Alexander the Great was more attentive to the rebut
HISTORY.
of his tutor, Leonidas, for his wasteful expenditure of incense in his sacri-
fices. ' It would be time for hini,' his tutor told him, ' so to worship
when he had conquered the countries that produced the frankincense.'
The king remembered the lesson ; and when he had taken possession of
Arabia, he despatched a cargo of frankincense and myrrh to his old
tutor.
From Greece perfumes quickly made their way to Rome; and, although
their sale was at first strictly prohibited, their employment became more
and more extravagant, until even the eagles and standards were thought
unfit to face the barbarian hosts of Northern Europe unless they had been
duly anointed before battle ; and should the engagement have proved
successful, the ceremony was repeated. Such was the demand for this
luxury, that the chief street of Capua was occupied solely by perfumers.
The incense burnt by Nero upon the funeral pyre of his wife Poppaa
exceeded the annual production of spices in Arabia. At tl rather earlier
period, Plautius Plancus, when proscribed by the triumvirs, was betrayed
by his perfumes. His place of concealment got wind, and discovered
him to his pursuers.^
After the Romans had conquered Egypt, India, and
Arabia, they obtained from these countries enormous quantities
of perfumes, in addition to those produced in Gaul and Italy.
The commonest of their perfumes was the sweet-smelling
rush. The most highly prized were the roses of Psestum,
spikenard, onegalium, telinum, medebathrum, balm of Gilead,
cinnamon, &c. They lavished these perfumes with a senseless
prodigality in their baths, their bed-rooms, and their beds.
Like the Greeks, they had perfumes for the different parts of
the body ; they mixed them with their wines, as Gallus
sings : —
Tunc me vina juvent nardo confusa rosisque,
Sertaque et unguentis, sordior facta coma ;
and they applied them to the heads of their guests.
Describing the spectacles and Amphitheatre at Rome,
Gibbon ^ observes : — ' The air of the Amphitheatre was con-
tinually refreshed by the playing of fountains, and profusely
impregnated by the grateful scent of aromatics.'
' Fraser's Magazine. ^ Vol. ii. chap. xii. p. 104.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Pliny speaks of numerous cosmetics in use among the
Romans. They dyed their hair black with St. John's Wort,
the myrtle, the cypress, boiled leek-parings, and walnut-shells.
Coma turn mutatur, ut annos
Dissimulet, viridi cortice tincta nucis.'
A mixture of oil, ashes, and earthworms prevented the hair
from turning white ; myrtle-berries were an antidote to bald-
ness ; and the growth of hair was, even at that early period,
promoted by the use of bear's-grease. To make the hair
flaxen they used vinegar lees or quince juice mixed with that
of privet. It would seem from a passage in Propertius that
some affected persons dyed the hair blue.
An si caeruleo quasdam sua tempora fuco
Tinxerit, idcirco caerula forma bona est ? *
It was also the custom among the Roman women to darken
their eyebrows.
Neque illi
Jam manet humida creta.'
Carmine was used for colouring the cheeks ; mandrake for
effacing scars on the face ; and, in addition to these simple
substances, the Roman perfumers had also compounded a
variety of mixtures which are recorded by Pliny or mentioned
in Ovid's ' Cosmetics,' and some of which have transmitted to
posterity the names of their inventors. Martial has preserved
the names of Niceros, Cosmus, Folia, &c.
In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies,
and particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and
other personages of exalted rank.
Pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is
procured ; and certain passages in his works indicate that
dried flowers were used in his time by way of perfume, and
' Tibullus, i. 8. - II. 17. i-ior. Epod.
HISTORY.
that they were, as now, mixed with spices, a compound which
the modern perfumer calls pot-pourri, used for scenting apart-
ments, and generally placed in some ornarriental vase.
It was not uncommon among the Egyptian ladies to carry
about the person a little pouch of odoriferous gums, as is the
case to the present day among the Chinese, and to wear beads
made of scented wood. The ' bdellium ' mentioned by Moses
in Genesis is a perfuming gum, resembling frankincense, if
not identical with it.
Several passages in Exodus and also in other parts of the
Scriptures ' prove the use of perfumes at a very early period
among the Hebrews. In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus the
Lord said unto Moses : —
I. And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon ; of shittim
wood shalt thou make it. . . . 7. And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet
incense every morning; when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn in-
cense upon it. . . . 34. Take unto thee sweet spices, stacte, and onycha,
and galbanum ; these sweet spices with pure frankincense : of each shall
there be a like weight. ... 35. And thou shalt make it a perfume, a
confection after the art of the apothecary,* tempered' together, pure and
holy. . . . 36. Andthoushaltbeatsomeof it very small, and put of it before
the testimony in the tabernacle of the congregation, where I will meet
with thee ; it shall be unto you most holy. ... 37. And as for the per-
fume which thou shalt make, ye shall not make to yourselves according to
the composition thereof ; it shall be unto thee holy for the Lord. ... 38.
Whosoever shall make like unto thee to smell thereto, shall even be cut
off from his people.
It was for this religious custom, of employing incense in the ancient
' Gen. xxxvii. ; Exodus xxx.; Ps. cxxxiii. ; Exodus xl. ; Numb, xvi.; 2 Chron.
xxvi. ; Is. xxxix.; 2 Chron. ix.; Cant, iv.; St. Markxiv.; Ps. xlv. ; Prov. vii. ;
Est. ii. ; Cant, i.; St. John xix.; 2 Kings ix.
* In Drs. D'Oyly and Mant's Bible this word 'apothecary' is italicised,
perfumer.
' ' Tempered.' The same writers render this word salted— thaX is, mixed
with nitre— which is probably the correct interpretation, because such a mixture
of resinous substances would not bum kindly without being previously ' tempered '
with saltpetre.
8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
temples, that the royal prophet drew that beautiful simile of his, when he
petitioned that his prayers might ascend before the Lord like incense.
It wa« while all the multitude was praying without, at the hour of incense,
that there appeared to Zachary an angel of the Lord, standing on the
right side of the altar of incense (Luke i. lo). That the nations attached
a meaning, not only of personal reverence, but also of religious homage,
to an offering of incense, is demonstrable from the instance of the Magi,
who, having fallen down to adore the new-born Jesus, and recognised his
Divinity, presented Him with gold, myrrh, and frankincense. It does
not appear, however, that the Jews made rriuch use of perfumes in their
toilet, deterred either by the severe injunctions of the law of Moses against
the personal use of preparations reserved for the holy place, or by their
nomadic life, which did not allow of their practising an art fitted only for
an advanced civilisation. They were accustomed to anoint themselves
with perfumes before meals ; but it is pretty certain that they made little
progress in the art of perfumery, and contented themselves with aromatjcs
in their natural state, or, at the most, dissolved in suitable vehicles. Th6
primitive Christians imitated the example of the Jews, and adopted the
use of incense at the celebration of the Liturgy. St. Ephraem, a father
of the Syriac Church, directed in his will that no aromatic perfumes should
be bestowed upon him at his funeral, but that the spices should rather be
given to the sanctuary. The use of incense in all the Oriental churches
is perpetual, and almost daily; nor do any of them ever celebrate their
Liturgy without it, unless compelled by necessity. The Coptic, as well
as other_ Eastern Christians, observe the same ceremonial as the Latin
Church in incensing their altar, the sacred vessels, and ecclesiastical per-
sonages.'
The Rev. T. J. Buckton, describing the precious ointment
of the Scriptures, says : —
The sacred oil, with which the tabernacle, the ark of the covenant,
the golden candlestick, the table, the altar of incense, the altar of burnt-
offermgs, the laver, and all the sacred utensils, and indeed the priests
themselves, were anointed, was composed of a hin of the oil of olives,
of the richest myrrh, of cassia, of cinnamon, and of sweet calamus. The
proportions of the mixture were 500 parts of the myrrh and cassia, and
250 each of the cinnamon and calamus. This ointment could not be
applied to any other purpose (Exod. xxx. 20-33). The Septuagint names
<.«^ of the ingredients, the myrrh, ^y.{,pvr^, «X«r^r, which corresponds
with the myrrh, i^vpov^apvrl^^, of Matthew (xxvi. 7), described as ,roX«-
' Dr. Rock's Hierurgia.
HISTORY. 9
T-eX^s by Mark (xiv. 3), and as TroXufi/ior by John (xii. 3), "The ointment
probably prepared for Lazarus, which his sister Mary poured on the head
and. body of our Lord, consisted therefore of one only of the four ingre-
dients of the sacred oil in use in the first Temple. Judas reprehended
this anointing, as practised at banquets, as an extravagant luxury. So
Martial (III. xii. 4) says: —
' Qui non coenat et ungitur, FabuUe,
Hie vere mihi mortuus videtur.'
This view was corrected by our Lord, who says it was done prepara-
tory to his entombment (Mark xiv. 8). Thus Jahn, in explaining the
above passages in the Gospels, says : — ' It was their custom to expend upon
the dead aromatic substances, especially myrrh and aloes, which were
brought from Arabia. This ceremony is expressed by the Greek verb
fVTa(pid^eiv [to embalm or entomb], and was performed by the neighbours
and relations.'
In the other case (Luke vii. 37) the myrrh was only applied to the
feet of our Lord after washing, and previous to partaking of a meal, — a
common practice of antiquity, and once performed by our Lord himself
to his disciples; when, however, no mention is made of anointing, it
being probably too costly for general use. At Sparta, the selling of per-
fumed ointments was wholly prohibited ; and in Athens, men were not
allowed to engage in it. Different ointments were used for different parts
of the body. — Eschenburg, iii. s. 170.
Gibbon ' says : —
In a magnificent temple, raised on Palatine Mount, the sacrifices of
the god Elagabalus (the sun) were celebrated, with every circumstance of
cost and solemnity. .The rarest aromatics were profusely consumed on
his altar.
Horace, in an ode celebrating the return of Augustus from
Spain, bids his slaves go and seek for perfumes, and desires
the tuneful Netera to make haste and collect into a knot her
scented hair. These passages sufficiently indicate the elegant
direction which the taste of the Romans took in the days of
this poet, who himself was a voluptuary in flowers and
fragrances.
Perfumes were used in the Church service, not only under
' Decline and Fall, vol. i. cHap. vi. p. 234.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the form of incense, but also mixed in the oil and wax for the
lamps and lights commanded to be burned in the house of the
Lord. The brilliancy and fragrance which were often shed
around a martyr's sepulchre, at the celebration of his festival,
by multitudes of lamps and tapers, fed with aromatics, of
which camphor was an important ingredient, have been noticed
by St. Paulinus : —
With crowded lamps are these bright altars crowned,
And waxen tapers, shedding perfume round
From fragrant wicks, beam calm a scented ray.
To gladden night, and joy e'en radiant day.'
SEVEN-BRANCHED CANDLESTICK,
The above illustration represents the seven-branched
candlestick used in the Temple of Jerusalem. In it were
burned fragrant tapers shedding perfume and light around
during the holy service. The sketch is taken from the
sculpture on the arch of Titus, showing the spoils of the
Temple brought by the soldiers at the sacking of the Holy
City.
Constantine the Great provided fragrant oils, to be burned
' Dr. Rock's Hierurgia.
HISTORY. II
at the altars of the greater churches in Rome ; and St.
Paulinus, of Nola, a writer of the end of the fourth and
beginning of the fifth century, tells us how, in his times, wax
tapers were made for church use, so as to shed fragrance as
they burned : —
Lumina ceratis adolentur odora papyris.
Gold, frankincense, and myrrh, in silken bags, are still
presented on Twelfth-day at the Chapel Royal in St. James's
Palace. Formerly, the offering was made by the sovereign
in person. The ' Daily Post ' newspaper, on Thursday,
January 7, 1742, informed its readers that
Yesterday, being Twelfth-day, his Majesty, the Duke, and Princesses
went in state to the Chapel Royal, assisted at divine service, and during
the offertory his Majesty advanced to the altar ; and, according to the
ancient custom of the kings of England, oiFer'd three purses fill'd with
gold, frankincense, and myrrh, in commemoration of the presents made
by the Eastern Magi as on that day at the Manifestation.
At present the offering is made by two persons connected
with the Lord Chamberlain's office. These gentlemen ap-
proach the altar during the reading of the offertory sen-
tences ; and, taking the purses said to contain the gold,
frankincense, and myrrh, place them on the alms dish, which
is held forth for their reception by one of the officiating
priests.
After Edward the Confessor restored, or rather rebuilt,
Westminster Abbey, he was so desirous of rendering the
Abbey almost unique in its attractions, that he endowed it
with relics — in those days beyond all price. Among these
things are to be noted here 'part of the frankincense
offered to Jesus by the Eastern Magi.' '
In accordance with an ancient custom, the Pope of Rome
' MSS. of the Time of Henry III. ; Luard's Life of Edward the Confessor.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
every year blesses what is called the Golden Rose. This
flower, which is made of the purest gold, and ornamented
with precious stones, is rubbed with balm, ambergris, musk,
and incense. His Holiness recites verses explaining the
mystic meaning of the benediction, after which he takes it in
his left hand, and then blesses the
people. Mass is then celebrated
in the Sistine Chapel. The gold
roses are ordinarily sent to female
sovereigns, sometimes to princes,
and sometimes, though rarely, to
towns and corporations ; the one
of 1 862 was sent to the Empress
of the French, and that of the
year before to the Queen of Spain.
Our Henry VHI. in the sixteenth
year of his reign received the
golden rose from Clement, as a
token of friendship. The form of
the golden rose has undergone
considerable modifications. It is
said originally to have consisted
of a single rose ; of late years it
has consisted of several branches,
with a rose on each, the plant being
placed in a golden vase, as in the
accompanying woodcut from an
engraving in the works of F. A. Rocce.
So also before the fifteenth century it was not the usage
to bless the rose, but only to anoint it with balsam and
perfume it with musk ; the latter, it is said, as well as the
thorns on the stem and the red tinge on the petals, having
been introduced in allusion to the passion of Our Lord.
A beautiful example of the golden rose is preserved in the
THE GOLDEN ROSE.
HISTORY. 13
sacristy of St. Mark's, at Venice, to which it was presented
by Pope Gregory in 1833, in memory of his having taken his
monastic vows in that city. The pedestal is supported by
four lions, and decorated with the papal arms and arabesque
ornaments.
The rose, a symbol of silence, gave rise to the phrase sub
rosA, ' under the rose,' said to have arisen from the circumstance
of the pope's presenting consecrated roses which are placed
over the confessionals at Rome to denote secrecy.
A perfume in common use, even to this day, was the
invention of one of the earliest of the Roman nobles, named
Frangipani, and still bears his name : it is a powder, or sachet,
composed of every known spice, in equal proportions, to
which is added ground iris or orris root, in weight equal to
the whole, with one per cent, of musk and civet. A liquid of
the same name, invented by his grandson Mercutio Frangi-
pani, is also in common use, prepared by digesting the
Frangipani powder in rectified spirits, which dissolves out
the fragrant principles. This has the merit of being the most
lasting perfume made.
' Notes and Queries ' recently published an article on
' The Origin of Frangipani,' which has sufficient interest for
us to transfer the matter to these pages.
This is the name of a composition sold as a perfume, and which of
late, through the enterprise of its vendors, has been pressed on the
attention of the public through the advertising columns of our newspapers,
periodicals, &c. The origin of the term seems worthy of a note, espe-
cially as many, I doubt not, have, like myself, supposed it to be without
more signification than the names of other perfumes ; but such is not the
case.
There is in Rome a family bearing the patronymic of Frangipanni,
as famous in Italy as the Plantagenets and the Tudors in England. The
origin of the name of this family is traced to a certain office which an
ancestor filled in the Church— that of supplying the holy bread, the wafer,
in one of the ceremonials. Frangipanni literally means ' broken bread,'
and is derived from frangi, to break, and panus, bread. Hence we
14 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
have the Frangipani puddings, which good housewives know are made
with the broken bread. One member of this ancient family, Mutio
Frangipani, served in France, in the papal army, during the reign of
Charles IX. The grandson of this nobleman was the Marquis Frangi-
pani, Mar^chal des Armdes of Louis XIII. ; and he it was who invented
a method of perfuming gloves, which, when so perfumed, bore the
name of ' Frangipani gloves.' ' Mfeage, in his ' Origini della Lingua
Italiana,' published at Geneva in 1685, thus notices the Marquis and his
invention : —
' Da uno di que' Signori Frangipani (I'abbiam veduto qui in Parigi)
furono chiamati certi guanti porfumati, Guanti di Frangipani.'
From the following passage in Le Laboureur's ' Mdmoires de Castel-
nau,' ^ it appears that the brother of the Marquis Frangipani had a share
in the invention : —
' Ce dernier Marquis Frangipani, et son fr^re mort auparavant luy,
inventferent la composition du parfum et des odeurs qui retiennent encore
le nom de Frangipane.'
What the composition of the perfume was that gained for the Marquis
so much reputation, I have not been able to discover. Manage, who, it
will be observed, was a contemporary, and had met the Marquis in Paris,
alludes merely to perfumed gloves, and I am inclined to think that this
was the only form in which the invention at first appeared. Le Laboureur
speaks of his inventing ' la composition du parfum et des odeurs,' which,
perhaps, may be understood to refer to some essence, powder, or pom-
made. This much, however, is certain, that various compositions, as
pommade, essence, axid powder, distinguished by the name o{ Frangipani
or Frangipane, were sold by perfumers down to the latter part of the last
century, when they gradually fell into disuse. M. Charles Piesse, a
perfumer of Nice, was certainly at that period the most celebrated maker
of Essence de Frangipane in Europe. During the last few years, how-
ever, the name has again found its way into the list of perfumes, and
Frangipani is now sold more than it probably ever was before. The
formula for the various compounds, as ' Pommade k la Frangipane,'
' Esprit de Frangipane,' &c., are so utterly discrepant, and have such
slender pretensions to represent the original, that it is needless to quote
them, and I shall only refer the reader who wishes for them to the works
named below.'
' Vide Bayle, Dictionnaire Historique et Critique ; Moreri, Grand Dictioimaire
ed. 1740, toine iv. p. 183.
' Ed. Bruxelles, 1731, tome ii. p. 651.
' Celnart, Nouveau Manuel complet du Parfumeur, Paris, 1854 i8mo •
Piesse, Art of Perfumery, London, 1856, 8vo.
HISTORY. 15
The subject ai perfumed gloves, which, I may remark, have long since
disappeared from use, introduces us to some curious particulars regarding
the trades of glover and perfumer. Savary, in his ' Dictionnaire Uni-
versel de Commerce' (Geneve et Paris, 1750), tells us that the glovers of
Paris constitute a considerable community, having statutes and laws
dating so far back as 11 90. These statutes, after receiving various con-
firmations from the kings of France, were renewed, confirmed, and added
to by Louis XIV., under Letters Patent, in March 1656. The glovers
are therein styled ' Marchands Maitres Gantiers-Parfumeurs.' In their
capacity of glovers, they had the right of making and selling gloves and
mittens of all sorts of materials, as well as the skins used in making
gloves ; while as perfumers they enjoyed the privilege of perfuming
gloves, and of selling all manner of perfumes. Perfumed skins were im-
ported from Spain and Italy, and were used for making gloves, purses,
pouches, &c. ; they were very expensive and 'fort k la mode,' but
their powerful odour led to their disuse as gloves ; nevertheless, ' Peau
d'Espagne' is in considerable demand for perfuming letter paper. There
were issued to the public, from the Laboratory of Flowers, in New Bond
Street, last year, 1,808 pieces of four inches square. With regard to gloves,
Savary remarks : —
' II s'en tiroit autrefois quantity de parfum^s d'Espagne et de Rome ;
mais leur forte odeur de muse, d'ambre, et de civette, qu'on ne pouvoit
soutenir sans incommodit^, a fait que la mode et I'usage s'en sont presque
perdus ; les plus estim^s de ces Gans ^toient les Gans de Franchipane et
ceux de Neroli.' '
Many receipts are extant for the perfuming of gloves, and, though
some of them are curious, they are too lengthy for me to quote more
than the titles. Here, in the ' Secreti de la Signora Isabella Cortese ne'
quali si contengono Cose Mineral!, Medicinali, Artificiose ed Alchimiche,
e molte de I'Arte Profumatoria, appartenenti aogni gran Signoria' (Venet.
1574, i2mo), we find directions for ' Concia di guanti perfettissima, con
musco ed ambracan,' and again ' Concia di granti senza musco perfetta.'
I have also before me, from an old French work published at Lyons in
1657,'' the precise directions for' Civette trfes exquisepour parfumer gands
et en oindre les mains.' In these compositions musk, ambergris, and
civet were the chief perfumes ; and as they were applied inside the
gloves, combined with some sort of oil or grease, their use at the present
day would be thought intolerable. The gloves of Frangipani were also
prepared with grease, as I think we may gather from the following lines
of Cerisantes : ' —
' Tome ii. p. 619. ' Les Secrets du Seigneur Alexis Piemontois.
' They fonn part of an ode addressed ' Ad Vincentem Victurum,' which
i6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
' Amice, nil me sicut antek juvat
Pulvere vel Cyprio
Comam nitentem pectere ;
Vel quas Britannus texuit subtiliter
Mille modis varias
Jactare ventis taenias ;
Vel quam perunxit Frangipanes ipsemet
Pelle, manum gracilem,
Corhm puellis promere.'
The word Franchipanne, or Frangipane, is applied in French cookery
to a sort of pastry composed of almonds, cream, sugar, &c. In the West
Indies it is used to designate the fruits oi Plumiera alba L., and P. rubra
L., because, according to Merat and De Lens,' ' on retrouve dans ces
fruits murs le gout de nos franchipanes.' If these fruits are eatable, it is
remarkable that neither Sloane nor Lunan mentions the fact. Frangi-
panier is, however, the French name of the Plumiera. — D. H.
One Mercutio Frangipani, who lived in 1493, was a famous botanist
and traveller, famous as being one of the Columbus expedition when they
visited the West India Islands. The sailors, as they approached Antigua,
discovered a delicious fragrance in the air. This, Mercutio told them,
must be derived from sweet-smelling flowers. On landing they found
vast quantities of the Plumiera Alba, in full bloom, rendering the air
redolent with rich odour ; and from this plant, which the present inhabit-
ants of Antigua call the Frangipani flower, is distilled that exquisite
fragrance which is iiow so popular in fashionable circles.
The trade for the East in perfume-drugs caused many a vessel to
spread its sails to the Red Sea, and many a camel to plod over that
tract which gave to Greece and Syria their importance as markets, and
vitality to the rocky city of Petra. Southern Italy was not long ere it
occupied itself in ministering to the luxury of the wealthy, by manufactur-
ing scented unguents and perfumes. So numerous were the Unguen-
TARli, or perfumers, that they are said to have filled the great street of
ancient Capua. — Hofmann.
It was a dicttim of the celebrated Beau Brummell that no
man of fashion sTiould use perfumes, but send his hnen to be-
washed and dried on Hampstead Heath. Few subscribed to
may be found at the end of the Latin letters of Balzac [Balzacii Carminum Libti
ires: ejtdsdem Epistola Selects, ed. ^g. Menagio, Paris, 1650, 410).
' Diet, de la Matiire Mldicale, tome v. p. 405 .
HISTORY. ly
this arbitrary mandate ; and it certainly opposed all precedent
both in ancient and modern times. The use of aromatics in
the East may be dated from the remotest antiquity ; and,
even at the present day, to sprinkle guests with rose-water
and perfume them with aloes wood at the close of every visit,
is deemed a token of hospitality and friendship. In that
excellent book which portrays, the domestic life of the early
Orientals, ' The Arabian Nights,' there will be found several
passages indicating the use of perfumes ; thus in the story of
' The Barber's Second Brother,' who, finding himself enticed
into the palace of the grand vizier's lady to be made a sport
and fool of for her amusement, had his eyebrows painted like a
■woman, his beard shaved off, and was then perfumed with
wood of aloes and rose-water. Arabia is the country of
perfumes ; and in more ancient times it was the practice to
keep them in shells, which were thrown up large and beautiful
on the shores of the Red Sea. Horace alludes to the same
practice as prevalent at Rome when he flourished : —
Funde capacibus
Unguenta de conchis.
Again he sings : —
Fill up the polished bowls with oblivious music ; pour out the perfumed
ointment from the capacious shells.
Perfumes were also thought to keep well in vessels made of
alabaster. Pliny explains the shape of these vessels by
comparing them to the pearls called elenchi, which are known
to have been shaped like pears. In hot climates fragrant oils
dispersed unpleasant odours which heat is apt to generate,
and thus became essential to the enjoyment of social life.
The poets of Greece and Rome were loud in the praise of
perfumes. Thus Anacreon (Ode XV.) exclaims : —
Let my hair with unguents flow,
With rosy garlands crown my brow.
C
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The magic power of Medea consisted in her skill as a
perfumer, and as an inventress of warm vapour-baths. Mr.
Beloe says of her that she first of all discovered a flower
which could make the colour of the hair black or white : such,
therefore, as wished to have black hair instead of white, by
her means obtained their wish. That the professors of the
medical art might not discover her secrets, she used fomen-
tations in her baths in secret. These made men more active,
and improved their health ; and as her apparatus consisted of
a caldron, wood and fire, it was believed that her patients
were in reality boiled. Pelias, an old and infirm man, using
this operation, died in the process.
But these practices were not confined to Oriental nations ;
for Herodotus (Melpomene, c. Ixxv.) says : — ' The Scythian
women bruise under a stone some wood of the cypress, cedar,
and frankincense ; upon this they pour a quantity of water
till it becomes of a certain consistency, with which they anoint
the body and the face. This at the time imparts an agreeable
odour, and when removed on the following day gives the
skin a soft and beautiful appearance.' In the athletic exer-
cises of the Olympic games, wrestlers and pancratists always
anointed their limbs to make them more supple. In Greece
the perfumes of Athens were most esteemed, as we learn from
a curious passage preserved in Athenseus, from a fragment of
the writings of Antiphanes, and the whole may amuse my
readers. It runs thus, showing from what countries different
degrees of excellence were obtained in his time: — 'A cook"
from Ellis ; a cauldron from Argos ; wine of Phlius ; tapestry
of Corinth ; fish from Sicyon ; cheese from Sicily ; the
perfumes of Athens ; and the eels of Bceotia.'
Sir John Bowring says that some porcelain jars were found
in the adjacent ruins to the Pyramids, which contained
cosmetics and perfumes three to four thousand years old ;
these jars bore Chinese inscriptions, the same which he has
HISTORY.
19
since traced among the Chinese poets of about the earlier
period.
In the ' Lives of the Queens of England ' we read : —
' Perfumes were never richer, more elaborate, more costly, or
more delicate than in the reign of Elizabeth.' Her Majesty's
nasal organs were particularly fine ; and nothing offended
her more than an unpleasant smell. Perfumes and cosmetics
of all kinds were in general use. The cosmetics and other
smaller accessories to a lady's toilet were kept in boxes
strongly impregnated with some favourite odour, and were
ANCTENT SWEET COFFER.
MODERN VINAIGRETTE.
called ' sweet coffers.' This term perpetually occurs in the
old writers; they were reckoned a necessary part of the
furniture of all state bed-chambers, and a fair criterion, by
their form and richness, of the taste and liberality of the
owner. The bottles of perfume connected with the common
labours of the toilet were called ' casting bottles.' The po-
mander, which originally was meant only as a preventive of
infection, as a camphor-bag is now, but became an article of
fashionable luxury amongst people of rank, was a little ball
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of perfumed paste worn in the pocket, or hung round the
neck. They soon became mediums for the most exquisite
devices in jewellery, and were frequently offered as compli-
mentary tokens, like the snuff-boxes of the present day.
Many pomanders were presented to Queen Elizabeth as new-
year's gifts, and among the list is the somewhat puzzling
item of —
A farye girdle of pomander.
Perfumed gloves were also fashionable.
Elizabeth had a cloak of Spanish perfumed leather, the
value of which may be estimated by stating that pieces of
' Peau d'Espagne' are now sold by the Bond Street perfumers
of London at the rate of one shilling the square inch ; even
her shoes were perfumed. The city of course soon imitated
the fashion of the court, as is apparent from frequent allusion
by the dramatic writers of the time.
The extensive and free use made of essences and scents
at this period gave rise to numerous satirical observations by
the authors of the day. The following verse appears in
Anstey's ' New Bath Guide,' — Bath then becoming the focus
of everything refined and fashionable, —
Bring, oh bring the essence pot !
Amber, musk, and bergamot,
Eau de Chipre, eau de Luce,
Sanspareil and citron juice.
As an indication of the 'spirit of the times' of the latter
part of the seventeenth century, we may here mention that an
Act was introduced into the English Pariiament, in 1770 :—
That all women, of whatever age, rank, profession, or degree, whether
virgins, maids, or widows, that shall, from and after such Act, impose
upon, seduce, and betray into matrimony, any of his Majesty's subjects,
by the scents, paints, cosmetic washes, artificicd teeth, false hair, Spanish
wool (wool impregnated with carmine, and used to this day as a rouge),
iron stays, hoops, high-heeled shoes, bolstered hips, shall incur "the
HISTORY.
penalty of the law now in force against witchcraft and like misdemeanours,
and that the marriage, upon conviction, shall stand null and void.
In Nichols's ' Progress of Queen Elizabeth,' he mentions
that at Hawkstead, among the rooms on the ground floor, was
one called the ' still-room,' an apartment where ladies of the
court much amused themselves in distilling fragrant waters.
In the ' Northumberland Household Book,' a work so
often quoted by historians, there appears the following list of
plants : — Roses, Borage, Fumitory, Brakes, Columbynes, Oak-
leaf, Harts-tongue, Draggon, Parcelly, Balme, Walnut-leaves,
Ox-tongue, Primrose, Sage, Sorrel, Betony, Cowslip, Elder-
flowers, Marygold, Tansy, and others, all for the use of the
still-room.
All great men's houses possessed such an apartment, and
ladies took lessons in the art of preparing perfumes and
washes.
Shakspeare makes Cleopatra study (though it would seem
for dangerous purposes) the properties of plants, and Cymbe-
line order the gathering of innocent flowers, to cover as guilty
an object.
Advocating the proper use of the olfactory faculty as we
do, it gives pleasure to quote a passage bearing upon the
subject from Sir W. Temple's ' Essay on Health and Long
Life.'
Fumigation, or the use of scents, is not, that I know of, at all practised
in our modern physic, nor the power and virtues of them considered
among us, yet they may have as much to do good, for aught I know, as
to do harm, and contribute to health, as well as disease, which is too
much felt by experience in all that are infectious, and by the operations of
some poisons that are received by the smell. How reviving as well as
pleasing some scents of herbs and flowers are, is obvious to all ; how,
great virtues they may have ift diseases, especially of the head, is known
to few, but may easily be conjectured by any thinking man.
I remember, he continues, that walking in a long gallery of the Indian
House of Amsterdam, where vast quantities of mace, cloves, and nutmegs
were kept in great open chests all along one side of the room, I found
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
something so reviving by the perfumed air, that I took notice of it to the
company with me, which was a great deal, and they all were sensible of
the same effect, which is enough to show the power of smells and their
operations both upon the health and humour.
Thanks to Stow, we are acquainted with the exact period
at which perfumes were introduced into England.
Milloners or haberdashers, he says, had not then any gloves imbroy-
dered or trimmed with gold or silke ; neither could they make any costly
wash or perfume, until about the fifteenth yeere of the queen (Elizabeth),
the Right Honourable Edward de Vere, Earl of Oxford, came from Italy,
and brought with him gloves, sweete bagges, a perfumed leather jerkin,
and other pleasant things ; and that yeere the queene had a pair of
perfumed gloves, trimmed only with four tuffes, or roses of coloured silk :
the queene took such pleasure in those gloves, that she was pictured with
those gloves upon her handes, and for many yeeres after it was called the
Earl of Oxford's perfume.
The old comedies of Elizabeth's time are full of allusions
to oils and essences, quintessences, pomatums, perfumes, and
paint, white and red. Strutt quotes a MS. receipt of this
date to make the face of a beautiful colour. A person de-
sirous of improving his complexion was to be placed in a bath,
that he might perspire freely, and afterwards to wash his face
with wine, and ' so should he be both faire and ruddy.' The
Earl of Shrewsbury, who had charge of the unfortunate Queen
of Scots, made an application for an increased allowance, on
the ground of her expensive habit of bathing in wine.
Generally, elder beauties bathed in wine ; the young ones
were contented with milk. Milk baths were in the height of
fashion in Charles the Second's reign. But the attempt thus
to cheat Time of his wrinkles was vain ; the would-be fair
ones were driven in despair to conceal what they found it
impossible to remove, and patches became the rage.
Philip Augustus of France granted a charter to the
master-perfumers in 1190. Perfumes first became fashionable
in England in the reign of Elizabeth. In 1800 there were
HISTORY. 23
about forty manufacturing perfumers in London, in Paris
eighty. No such trade as a perfumer was known in Scotland
in 1763. A stamp-tax was laid on various articles of perfu-
mery in England, and the vendor was obliged to take out a
licence in 1786. — Haydn's 'Dictionary of Dates,' 1868.
The first work on the subject, strictly on the manufacture
of perfumery, was written by Charles Lillie, under the title of
the 'British Perfumer,' 1822. The author was noticed in the
' Spectator,' ' Tatler,' and ' Guardian,' periodicals of the day.
After Lillie's death the house he occupied at the corner of
Beaufort Buildings, in the Strand, was held by Ackerman, the
celebrated print-seller, and by a curious coincidence is now
the repertory of my friend Rimmel.
The ancients indulged in perfumes much more luxuriously
than we do. Mr. Sidney Whiting, in his imaginative and
scholarly production, ' Heliond^ ; or, Adventures in the Sun,'
fancifully describes the inhabitants of that orb as sustaining
life solely upon sweet scents.
Curious as are the records of the indulgence of former
ages in cosmetics and aromatics, it has certainly been reserved
for our own time to perfect the science of perfumery. Within
the laboratory of the perfumer, chemistry now holds a recog-
nised place, and acres of some of the fairest spots in Europe
and Asia are devoted to the cultivation of flowers whose
fragrance is no longer wasted on the desert air, but preserved
for the enjoyment of all throughout the year, and at a time
and place when and where their beauty and fragrance is
bereft.
To the above sketch of the history of perfumery in Eng-
land must be added a similar sketch of its history in France.
In early times, as we have already stated, Rome received
large quantities of perfumes from the Gauls, and most of the
Roman artists (or perfumers'*) belonged to the Gallic nation.
These traditions were perpetuated. Clotilda heightened her
24 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
charms with balsams and ointments ; the fairy Melusina and
the enchanter Merlin had all kinds of wonderful preparations
for preserving their beauty ; the magician and the alchemist
devised precious philtres for keeping lovers faithful, and in-
fallible recipes for procuring to themselves eternal youth.
Gregory of Tours speaks of the art by which Clotilda,
Brunehilda, and Galasuinta heightened the splendour of their
attractions. He informs us that the Franks and the Gauls
were acquainted with several artificial wines, which he calls
vina odoramentis immixta. Forest, author of the romance of
' Perseus,' also observes, in describing a feast, that every guest,
male and female, had a wreath of roses on the head. Mathieu
de Coucy relates that at a banquet given by Philip the Good,
Duke of Burgundy, there was a figure of a child from which
gushed rose-water.'
In the first age of the French monarchy, it was customary
to place in open coffins scent-boxes and perfumes, which gave
out their fragrance under the influence of heat. Such scent-
boxes have been found in the tombs of one of the churches of
Paris.
Perfumes figured among the presents which Harun-al-
Raschid sent to Charlemagne ; and the Arabs, when they
invaded Spain, introduced there unguents and cosmetics till
then unknown. The Crusades endowed Europe with new
perfumes ; and by the discovery of America cacao, vanilla,
balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, &c., became known to us.
During the Renaissance the most celebrated perfumers in
France were the Italian artists, invited by Francis I. and
Catherine de' Medici. This period may be compared with the
age of Martial in respect to the excessive use of pastes and
pomades, perfumed gloves, and all the refinements of art. It
is recorded by historians that Diana of Poitiers, by the use of
cosmetics, preserved her beauty to an age at which her rivals
' ' Une statue d'enfant qui pissait de I'eau de roses.'
HISTORY. 25
had ceased to charm. It is even alleged that she possessed
the secrets of Paracelsus. By the side of the Lady of Anet
shone Margaret, Pearl of pearls, and the heroines celebrated
by Brant6me, who availed themselves of all the resources of
the art of cosmetics. At this period appeared the works of
Saigini, Guet, Dettazy, Isabella Cortese, and Marinello ' on
cosmetics, all treating the subject in a remarkable way.
Under the sovereigns of the house of Valois the use of
perfumes was carried to excess ; and the pastes, pomades,
and musk of Poppaea, recovered for Henry III. and his
favourites, led to a kind of reaction in the following reign
against perfumes and cosmetics. But the habits of Rene the
Florentine, the gloves of the Queen of Navarre and those of
the fair Gabrielle contributed to this revulsion of feeling ; just
as the powder sellers at a later day alarmed the court of
Louis XIV.
After being neglected under Henry IV., who spent his
days in camps and cared little for odours and ointments,
perfumes again cam.e into favour at the court of Louis XIII.,
under the influence of the beautiful Anne of Austria.
Almond paste and the creams of cacao and vanilla, im-
ported from Spain, were used to whiten the hands and the
shoulders of the fair ladies of the court and of the Hotel de
Rambouillet. It was at this time that the most affected and
far-fetched names, mostly borrowed from the vocabulary of De
Tendre, began to be applied to cosmetics. These were again
proscribed by Louis XIV., who detested them ; and once
more they revived, and finally, under the Regency. The
beauty of Ninon de Lenclos, which was so long preserved,
shows what advance the art of the perfumer had then made.
With the Regency perfumes reappeared at court. At this
time the Mar^chale powder was invented, and the important
' Gli ornamenti delle donne. Venezia, 1 574-
26 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
works of Jean Liebault on perfumery were published.'
Powders, paint, and pomades were used. Ninon de Lenclos
kept her beauty to her sixtieth year ; and Cagliostro at a
later day sold to the Dubarry a wonderful recipe, which
secured to her youth and beauty to the borders of old age.
Marshal Richelieu in his last years used to have sweet odours
diffused in his rooms by means of bellows. M. Claye assures
us that one of the cosmetics most efficient in maintaining the
beauty of Madame de Pompadour is now in the possession of
the firm of Violet. The receipt was transmitted to this firm
by the heirs of Manon Foissy, chambermaid to the mar-
chioness.
Under Queen Marie Antoinette the taste for perfumes was
refined. Instead of sharp strong odours, the scent of the
violet and the rose was relished. This preference has lasted
to our days.
As we have mentioned perfumed gloves, which, by the
way, have long fallen into disuse, we will communicate some
curious details respecting the trade in gloves and perfumes.
Before the Revolution, says Louis Claye, perfumery was
placed under the control of the corporations. In 1190 Philip
Augustus granted to the perfumers some statutes, which were
confirmed by King John, December 20, 1357, and by royal
letter of Henry III., July 27, 1582; and by these laws the
trade was regulated down to 1636. Under Colbert, who gave
a powerful stimulus to French commerce, the perfumers (or
parfumeurs-gantiers, as they were then called,) obtained
patents registered in the Parliament, which prove the impor-
tant position they had acquired. Their fraternity was esta-
blished at St. Anne's Chapel, in the Church of the Innocents.
By patents granted July 20, 1426 by Henry VI., king of
England, who during the troubles of the reign of Charles VII.
• Quatre livres-de Secrets de viidecine et de la philosophie chimique Rouen,
1628.
HISTORY. 27
Styled himself king of France, the arms of the perfumers, as
registered in the Armorial General of France, are — Argent,
three gloves gules, chief azure, charged with antique scent-box
gold.i
The influence of the Revolution made itself felt in the
business of perfumery. There were guillotine dresses, Sanson
pomades, &c. Various preparations, which have become his-
torical, have comedown to the present day from the Directory
and the Empire. It was at this period that a transformation
took place in the trade of the perfumer by the adoption of a
scientific basis for his art. It was under the Directory also
that five ladies revived the perfumed baths of the Greeks and
Romans. Madame Tallien, on leaving a bath of strawberries
and raspberries, had herself gently rubbed with sponges soaked
in milk and perfumes.
The Emperor Napoleon I. was very susceptible to the
action of perfumes. He used every morning to apply eau de
Cologne to his head and shoulders. The Empress Josephine
had the taste of a Creole for flowers and perfumes. She had
brought from Martinique cosmetics which she always conti-
nued to use. The consumption of perfumes was at this epoch
at its greatest height.
The taste for perfumes and cosmetics is at the present day
carried to a very high pitch. Immense factories have been
established and storehouses built; and London and Paris
supply perfumes to all parts of the world. Its annual pro-
ducts exceed in value 50,000,000 francs (2,000,000/. sterling).
M. Claye justly points out that we must distinguish three
classes of perfumery— the fine ; the ordinary, made by honest
manufacturers of reputation ; and the anonymous, consisting
of articles ill-made, spurious, and pirated. In Paris there are
numerous perfumery houses for the production of the purest
articles only, and their business is conducted with the large
' Claye, Les Talismans de la beautJ, p. 22.
2g THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
knowledge, unwearied attention, conscientiousness, and sense
of honour indispensable in such case. For these productions,
according as they are more or less skilfully prepared, may
confirm health, preserve beauty, or gradually ruin the consti-
tution. We may, without fear of contradiction, enumerate
the firms of Chardin and Massignon, Chardin of the rue du
Bac, Demarson, Gell^, Lubin, Pinaud, Fiver, and Violet among
the best representatives of the perfumery business in Paris,
Atkinson, Hendie, Low and Son, Cleaver, Pears, and Piesse
and Lubin of London, with respect to fine quality, purity,
and hygienic efficacy of their wares.
The manufacturer can guarantee only what he himself
makes. He selects the raw materials, and under his eyes all
perfumes and all cosmetics are prepared. It is the only
safeguard against deception as to the nature of the substances
employed. The first condition to be fulfilled in the case of
ordinary perfumery is to produce quickly and cheaply. It is
difficult to wait for such modifications as are effected in certain
articles only by great care and long patience. Many sub-
stances are purchased ready made, and have only to be per-
fumed and adapted. Adulteration and the pirating of the
name or the form frequently begin in the ordinary perfumeries ;
but these practices are almost certain to be allowed in the
common and anonymous houses. The only means of safe-
guarding the interests of the perfumer, and of protecting the
public health against such scandalous and perfidious tricks, is
the adoption of trade-marks by the manufacturer, and the
appointment of trustworthy agents whose respectability will
guarantee to the consumer the genuineness of the goods
delivered.
The perfuming-pan, which was kindled in the palaces of
Babylonia, Susa, and Venice, still smokes in the seraglios of
Teheran and on the shores of the Bosphorus. The life of
sultana and odalisque is spent on cushions scented with amber,
HISTORY. 29
the mouthpiece of the narghile on their lip, between the hour
of the bath and the arrival of the master. In the mysteries
of the toilet, the Mussulman women still follow the religious
injunctions and formulae of the commentators on the Koran.
The monopoly of depilatory pastes and cosmetics, used after
the bath which every Friday purifies the faithful, is held by
the dervishes ; but the East has now lost the monopoly of
other perfumes and cosmetics. The orange-trees of Grasse,
the irises of Florence, the lilies of Limagne, fill the place of
Eastern flowers ; and although Arabia still supplies us with
the myrtle and its resins, India with santalwood and benzoin,
and Tonquin with its musk, these perfumes reach our hands
as raw material. Paris transforms them, gives them the stamp
of fashion, and distributes them over the world. All the
European capitals are supplied from French perfumeries.
England, indeed, is a successful rival, as she gathers a
harvest of good alcohols. Her vessels, like those of France,
trade in America, in the East, in India, and in China. The
great houses enjoy a reputation in America, in Russia,
Turkey, Germany, Persia, China, and Japan. The Australian
colonists are most lavish in the use of perfumes — all of
English manufacture.
30 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION II.
Unbidden earth shall wreathing flowers bring,
And fragrant herbs the promises of spring,
As her first offering to the ruling king.— Dryden's Virgil.
AS an art in England, perfumery had attained little or
no distinction until thirty-five years past. This arose
from those who followed it as a trade maintaining a mys-
terious secrecy about their processes. No manufacture that
is carried on under a veil of mystery can ever become great
or important to the community. I am rather of the Grecians'
mind, who once a-year wrote in the temple of .^sculapius all
the cures they had performed, and by what means they had
effected them !
On the subject of trade mystery I will only observe, that I am con-
vinced that it would be far more to the interest of manufacturers if they
were more willing to profit by the experience of others, and less fearful
and jealous of the supposed secrets of their craft. It is a great mistake
to think that a successful manufacturer is one who has carefully preserved
the secrets of his trade, or that peculiar modes of effecting simple things,
processes unknown in other factories, and mysteries beyond the compre-
hension of the vulgar, are in any way essential to skill as a manufacturer,
or to success as a trader.^
In the dark ages it was always a secret, a mystery, or a crafc, in the
hands of a guild, a profession, or a fraternity of some sort or other. In
those days wisdom preyed upon ignorance, and nobody cared to know
anything except as a means of overreaching his neighbour. Science,
being thus divorced from reason, and robbed of its innocence, so to
' Professor Solly.
TRADE mystery:
31
speak, was very naturally treated as a species of witchcraft, and a man
who stole a march on the average intellect of the day was not unfre-
quently burnt for a dealer in the black art. It is well known that many
who so suffered had to thank themselves for the delusion which proved
fatal to them, as they had purposely mystified their knowledge of nature.
There are secrets in these days, many of which are as highly prized and
as jealously guarded as the secrets of mediaeval art. Yet an atmosphere of
secrecy is not generally conducive to public improvement, or even to
private advantage. The first manufacturers of the age have no secrets.
They are ready to show their works to any respectable stranger ; and,
even if they have gained upon their neighbours in some device for the
economy of labour or material, they won't keep it to themselves. They
trust to an improving spirit, and to an energy always in advance, rather
than to the exclusive possession of this or that little ' dodge.' Small
people don't understand this. They are always looking out for the trick
which is to open the door of fortune, and show the royal road to inex-
haustible wealth.^
If the horticulturists of England were instructed how to
collect the odours of flowers, a new branch of manufacture
would spring up in some of our warm colonies, to vie with
our neighbours' skill in it across the Channel.
Time was, when in the still-room ' distilled waters ' and
' cordials ' were drawn and dispensed as specifics for
maladies to guests and dependents ; but now this practice is
out of use, because they can be purchased cheaper than they
can be made at home ; nevertheless the still-room maid pre-
serves her name, though rarely required to perform her ancient
duties.^
■ The Times, October 31, 1855.
''■ To expect the revival of this part of domestic economy would be absurd, yet
we must say that a domestic laboratory attached to the conservatory would prove
highly instructive and amusing. To those even who have no conservatory, we
would yet advise to set a room apart in their mansions, with the title of ' labora-
tory,' or the ancient one of ' still-room.' Here experiments may be made, scents
distilled, and an acquaintance courted with ' common things,' without interfering
with other people of the establishment, or ' making a mess about the house.' The
amount of instruction that can be derived from a private laboratory is far more
than at first sight can be conceived ; and the entertainment, changeable as a
kaleidoscope, is intellectually considered immeasurably superior either to crochet
32 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Of our five senses, that of SMELLING has been treated
with comparative indifference. However, as knowledge
progresses, the various faculties with which the Creator has
thought proper in His wisdom to endow man will become
developed, and the faculty of Smelling will meet with his
share of tuition as well as Sight, Hearing, Touch, and Taste.
St. Paul tells the Corinthians, ' that there should be no
schism in the body, but that the members should have the
same care one for another. And whether one member
suffer, all the members suffer with it ; or one member be
honoured, all the members rejoice in it ; nay, much more
those members which seem to be more feeble are necessary.
If the whole body were an eye, where were the hearing 1
if the whole were hearing, where were the smelling ? ' These
arguments appear so conclusive in favour of a just and
proper estimation of the value of smelling, that it would
seem impossible to neglect it without bodily suffering as a
consequence.
Practically, the author has always found it so : among
the lower orders, bad smells are little- heeded ; in fact, 'noses
have they, but they smell not ; ' and the result is, a con-
tinuance to live in an atmosphere laden with poisonous
odours, whereas any one with the least power of smelling
retained shuns such odours, as they would any other thing
that is vile or pernicious. In the public schools ' common
things ' are now being taught ; to complete the idea, youth
must be instructed that, when the nose is offended, the body
will indirectly suffer. If they are not taught to know by
name every odour that they smell, they can at least be made
familiar with the deadly effects of sulphuretted hydrogen,
or Berlin work. The delicate manipulations of chemical experiments are well,
even better, suited to their physical powers than to the sterner sex ; and to the
ladies, therefore, we commend the charge of becoming the chefs of the modern
still-room.
DIFFUSION OF ODOURS. 33
and othei- of the putrescent gases, and so avoid them in future
life.
The influence of this sense over the frame is very re-
markable : one odour will instantly produce loathing, nausea,
and vomiting ; another has a part in producing an exhila-
rating effect upon the mind, sdch as the fragrance of the
country air on a spring morning, or the sweet sea-breeze
laden with the brominic odours from stranded weeds. The
first smell of the sea to a landsman wonderfully affects the
nervous system.
The fragrance of the fields in hay-making time, a walk
in a garden at evening's close, both produce an exhilarating
effect upon the mind.
Odours are capable of a very wide diffusion ; so much so,
that one can scarcely credit that at all times odour necessarily
implies materiality. It seems that, in numerous instances,
odour acts as an imponderable agent, rather than physical
matter. It is clear that certain matters produce certain
odours, but it is not equally definite that the matters in ques-
tion are themselves the odours. My view of the case induces
me to conclude that we can best understand the true theory
of odours by viewing them as imponderable agents, affecting
the nervous system by special vibrations, as colours affect the
eye, and sounds the ear.
We may presume that such vibrations are caused by the
chemical action set up by the contact of essences and per-
fumes with the oxygen of the air. We are able, indeed, to
reduce them to an odourless state by excluding oxygen and
volatilising them. The essences thus deprived of odour
recover it instantaneously on contact with the air. In all
chemical combinations vibrations occur which give rise to
luminous or electrical phaenomena. In certain cases other
vibrations are produced which affect the olfactory nerve-
D
34 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
system. For such odour there would be a different velocity
of vibration.
The analogy which exists between colour and sound has
long been admitted. The ancients felt their connection when
they identified the musical gamut as the chromatic scale.
Bacon, and numerous writers since his time, has written
upon this subject, and some have attempted to show that the
harmony of colours agrees with the melody of the scale.
G. B. Allen, Mus. Bac, has written several papers in the
' Musical World,' On the Analogy existing between Musical
Scales and Colours ; wherein he shows that all composers of
merit have perception of this analogy, and which is apparent
in all their works.
Field, in his ' Chromatics,' arranges the scale thus : —
Blue Purple Red Orange Yellow Green Olive
Do Re Mi Fa Sol La Si
and proves the analogy by the following : — As the three
primary colours, blue, red, yellow, in combination, or contrast,
produce the most perfect harmony, so do the sounds. Do, Mi,
Sol. The metrochrome and the monochord also prove their
exact agreement. By this first instrument we discover that
in pure white light there are eight degrees of blue, five of
red, and three of yellow. And by the latter that eight parts
of a string will give Do, five Mi, and three Sol. This agree-
ment is curious, and proves the existence of some universal
law of harmony.
For measuring the intensities of light and of sound we
have a method founded on their respective velocities. Struck,
like many other observers, with the strict analogy subsisting
between the forces which affect our several senses, and par-
ticularly between those which affect the organs of smelling,
and of hearing, but failing to find any accepted criterion for
measuring the intensity of an odour as that of a sound is
VELOCITY OF ODOUR. 35
measured, I undertook a series of experiments for the purpose
of discovering one.
For some time I had observed that when alcoholic solu-
tions of various essences mixed together were allowed to
evaporate in the open air, they underwent a sort of natural
analysis ; that is to say, the most volatile were the first to
evaporate, the less volatile disappearing later. From the
constant reproduction of the same phaenomenon, when the
essences were the same, I could not fail to see that a species
of force, definite and inherent, passed away from each of
these odorous bodies or remained in them for a longer or
shorter time. This force I name the velocity of the odour,
or, in other words, the force of volatility. Now I find a
relation between this force of volatility and the manner in
which an odorous substance affects the sense of smell. I do
not pretend to say that a body possessing a large force of
volatility will affect the organs of smell in a different way
from another body with a lower force of volatility. I know
that there are volatile bodies, ex. gr., mercury and water,
which have no smell ; a phaenomenon owing chiefly to the
circumstance that their vapours are not' soluble in the secre-
tions which lubricate the nasal membranes. But I do main-
tain that substances which are exhaled naturally, or are
extracted from plants or animals, and are recognised as
odorous bodies, affect the olfactory nerves in direct propor-
tion to their force of volatility, or the velocity, of the odour,
because it acts upon the odour of any body so far as this
body is soluble in the pituitary secretion.
The force of volatility, or the velocity of the odour,
cannot, consistently with the context, be defined and explained
as it is in the above paragraph ; and, particularly, we cannot
say that the odours produced are in a direct ratio with the
solubility of the vapours in the liquid arising from the pitui-
tary secretion. For the vapour of water is certainly soluble
36 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
in this secretion^ and is inodorous. It would be mofe correct
to say that the force of volatility of essences, or the rapidity
with which they evaporate, would always be in proportion to
the velocity of the vibrations produced, or the rapidity with
which the odorous waves might be propagated. If this
velocity were not high enough, there would be no perceptible
odour ; just as with sounds, which remain inaudible unless
they correspond to at least sixty vibrations per second. The
liquid which lubricates the olfactory membrane, necessary for
the perception of odours, would have as its function to
increase the sensitiveness of the nerves, and thus render them
more susceptible of odours.
Thus bodies possessing a very low degree of volatility are
those known as strong odours ; those, on the contrary,
which have a high degree of volatility, are feeble and delicate
odours. In this respect we note an analogy between odours
and sounds. The loudest sounds are produced by sonorous
waves which are the most slowly propagated ; and the most
powerful odours are produced by the most slowly propagated
odorous waves.
In speaking even compendiously of the physiological
action of odours, it is needful to remind the reader of the
distinction existing between substances which irritate
the nerves of the sense of touch and those which convey
the impression of odours to the olfactory nerves. For cer-
tain solid substances, when pulverised, such as glass dust,
soap powder, snuff, and some of the gases, ex. gr., chlorine,
ammonia, &c., stimulate the pituitary membrane. The effects
produced by these substances are those of a hoAy touched, not
of a body smelt.
In other words, we must not confound the local mecha-
nical action more or less irritating of certain bodies on the
pituitary membrane with that of odours properly so called on
the nerves of smell.
■ RATE OF VOLATILITY. 57.
After a long series of experiments, the details of which
would be out of place here, I have succeeded in drawing up a
table of the degrees of volatility of odours, which' indicates
pretty nearly their relative strength. It will be of service to
perfumers, guiding them, when mixing perfumes, in their
selection in each case of such as are of different or equal
degrees of volatility.
Volatility and Strength of Odours.
Water . i.cwoo
Essence of elder 0.2850
Citron 0.2480
Portugal 0.2270
English lavender 0.0620
French lavender 0.0610
Bergamot 0.0550
Parsley 0.0370
Petit grain neroli 0.0330
English thyme 0.0220
Lemongrass 0.0170
Spanish geranium 0.0106
French geranium 0.0074
Calamus . . ^ 0.0069
English lemon thyme 0.0062
Essence of Turkey roses 0.005 "
English bay 0.0039
Essence of French roses 0.0038
Clove 0.0035
Cedar 0.0020
Patchouly o.ooio
With respect to the chemical constitution of essences, I
have recently establi.shed an important fact ; namely, that in
many cases the essence obtained from flowers by distillation
is not identical with the perfume exhaled by the living
flower.
The vapour of water acts chemically on an essence. It
increases the primitive quantity of hydrogen, and diminishes
the normal proportion of oxygen by producing carbonic acid.
38 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
For the most part, freshly distilled essences slightly re-
produce the perfume of the flowers from which they are
extracted, and later on recall it more perfectly, owing to the
oxidising influence of the air.
Certain essences, neroli for example, do not smell like the
flower which yields them. But in the process known as
enfleurage — that is to say, when we efiect the absorption of
the fresh odour of orange flowers by a fatty body, and then
by means of alcohol withdraw the odorous principle from
such body, separating it afterwards from the alcohol by
distillation — we obtain a neroli, the odour of which is
precisely the same as that of the flower. In this process
there is no intervention of watery vapour to destroy the
essence.
It is certain that the neroli thus obtained reproduces the
actual smell of orange flowers ; while that obtained by dis-
tillation has an entirely different smell, recalling the smell of
freshwater fish.
It has been demonstrated by the very interesting re-
searches of several chemists, and particularly by those of
MM. Blanchet and Sell, Deville and others, that essences
enter into definite combinations with water, their physical
properties and especially their odour being at the same time
modified. But it happens likewise that essences are chemi-
cally modified by water. Neroli thus differs altogether in
properties and in composition, not only from the essence of
orange flowers extracted by enfleurage or by sulphuret of
carbon, but also from the same essence isolated from water
distilled from orange flowers by means of ether. We are
obliged, therefore, to recognise a great difference between
neroli and the essence of orange flowers properly so called;
and it is probable, indeed, that the solid crystallisable oil
extracted from neroli by Plisson, and to which he gave the
name of auratte, is really a hydrate. It is manifest that
ISOMERIC ODOURS. 39
essences when exposed to contact with the air are oxidised,
and take the form of resins.
I have resorted to the process of enfleurage for the purpose
of obtaining several very rare essences, and others which had
not previously been isolated, such as those of tuberose,
jasmine, acacia, and violet. In a chemical point of view
these esserices possess a very high interest ; and I am study-
ing them at the present time.
.1 believe that any two bodies which have the same odour
are the same. In fact, two bodies differing in composition
have not the same odour ; and if it be so, I am in hope soon
to extract essence of violet from iris root, which has exactly
the same odour. .
Nevertheless, this principle of identity of odour and of
physical properties in bodies agreeing in chemical composi-
tion is far from being absolute. We could cite numerous
examples of the contrary among the substances which are
called by chemists isomeric ; but we shall confine ourselves to
mentioning athyl-formic ether and methyl- acetic ether,
which contain the same elements and in the same proportions,
and which nevertheless possess quite different odours. The
great group of hydro-carbonated essences likewise presents
many examples of these singular facts.
Dr. Gladstone and the Rev. F. P. Dale have been engaged
in researches on the optical properties of various essences ;
and as their results may be useful, I feel bound to give them a
place in these pages. In the table printed on p. 40 are given
the physical properties of raw essences, their specific gravity
at a temperature of I5°.S, indices of refraction for the rays
A D and H (or G, when the yellow tint of the liquid renders
H indistinguishable), and their rotatory force in the plane of
polarisation. The last-named property is given for a tube
o™. 25 in length. Whenever it was necessary for any reason
to employ a shorter tube, the requisite reduction has been
40
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
made. Thus essence of fennel leaf was actually observed in
a tube of O". 125, in which it gives 103° right-hand rotation^
but it has been inserted as giving 206°. A solution of the
same length, composed of equal weights of cane sugar and
water, gives a rotation of 105°. Temperature also was
observed in all the later experiments of this kind ; but the
results are not inserted here, because another column must
have been added ; a difference of a few degrees appears
to make a scarcely appreciable change in the rotatory force of
the essences which were the subjects of the investigation.
Optical Properties of Essences.
Indices of Refraction
c
Specific
.2
Crude Essences
Gravity
ctf
at i5°-5
Temp.
A
D
H
1
Anise ....
9852
I -5433
I.SS66
I.6118
— I
Victoria sassafras
1.042s
14
I.5172
1-5274
1.5628
+ 7
Laurel
8808
18.5
1.4944
1.5022
1.5420
- 6
Bergamot .
882s
22
1-4559
1.4625
1.4779 G.
+ 23
Florence bergamot
8804
26.5
1-4547
1.4614
1. 4760 G.
-1- 40
Birch bark .
9005
8
I -485 1
1. 492 1
I.5172
+ 38
Cajeput
9203
25-S
1.4561
1.4611
1-4778 ,
Calamus
9388
lO
1.496s
1.5031
1.52040."
+ 43'5
Hamburg calamus
9410
II
1.4843
1.4911
1-5 144
-f 42 ?
Caraway .
8845
19
1. 460 1
1.4671
1.4886
+ 63
Hamburg caraway ist
dist.
9I2I
10
1.4829
1-4903
1.5142
— 2nd dist.
8832
lo-S
—
1.4784
Cascarilla .
8956
10
1.4844
1.4918
1.5158
+ 26
Cassia
1.0297
19-5
1.5602
1.5748
1.6243 G.
Q
Cedar.
9622
23
1.4978
1-5035
1.5238
+ 3
Cedra.
l'>H
18
1.467 1
I -473 1
1-4952
■H56
Balm-mint .
8908
21
1-4599
1.4659
1.4866
- 4 ■
Penang balm-mint
8847
15-5
1.4604
1.4665
1-4875
- I
Clove ....
1.0475
17
1-5213
1.5312
1.5666
— 4
Coriander ,
8775
10
I-4S92
1.4652
1.48050.
-1- 21 ?
Cubeb
9414
10
1-4953
1.50U
1.54500.
Fennel
8922
11.5
1.4764
1-4834
1.5072
•t206
Elder ....
Eucalyptus amygdali-
8584
8.5
1.4686
1-4749
1.4965
+ 14-5
nus ....
8812
13-5
1.4717
1.4788
1. 5021
-136
Oily eucalyptus .
9322
13.5
1. 466 1
1.4718
1.4909
+ 4
OPTICAL PROPERTIES.
4'
Indices of Refraction
Crude Essences
Specific
Gravity
at 15°. s
1
Temp.
A
D
H
1
Indian Geranium
9043
2I.S
1-4653
1.4714
1.4868 G.
- 4
Lavender .
8903
20
1.4586
1.4648
1.4862
- 20
Lemon
8498
16.S
1.466.7
1.4727
1.4946
-H64
Andropogon
8932
24
—
1.4705
- 3 ?
Penang andropogon .
8766
13-5
1.4756
1.4837
1.5042
Melaleuca ericifolia .
9030
9
1.4655
1.4712
1. 4901
+ 26
— linarifolia
9016
9
I.4710
1.4772
1.4971
+ 11
Mint .
9342
19
1.4767
1.4840
1.501 5 G.
-116
— .
9IOS
14.5
1.4756
1.4822
1.5027
- 13
Myrtle
891 1
14
1.4623
1.4680
1.4879
+ 21
Myrrh
1.0189
7-5
I.5I96
1.5278
I.5472G.
-136
Neroli
8789
18
I.4614
1.4676
1.4835 G.
+ IS
— .
8743
10
14673
I -474 1
1.483 IF.
+ 28
Nutmeg
8826
24
1.4644
1.4709
1-4934
+ 44
Penang nutmeg
9069
16
1-4749
1.4818
1.5053
+ 9
Orange-peel
8509
20 .
1-4633
1.4699
1.4916
+. 32 ?
Florence orange
-peel .
8864
20
1-47.07
1-4774
1.4980
+ 216
Parsley
9926
8.5
1.5068
I-5162
1.5417G.
- 9
Patchouly .
955 +
21
1.4990
1.5050
1.5194G.
Penang patchouly
9592
21
1.4980
1.5040
1.5183G.
— 120
French patchouly
1.0119
14
1.5074
1.5132
1.5202 F.
. —
Peppermint
9028
14-5
1.4612
1,4670
1.4854
- 72
Florence peppermint .
9116
14
1.4628
1.4682
1.4867
- 44
Petit grain .
8765
21
1-4536
1,4600
1.4808
+ 26
Rose .
8912
25-5
1.4567
1.4627
1.4835
- 7
Rosemary .
9080
16
1.4632
1.4688
1.4867
+ 17
Rosewood .
9064
17
1.4843
1,4903
I-5II3
- 16
Sandalwood
9750
24 .
1-4959
1,5021
1.5227
- 50
Thyme
8843
19
1.4695
1-4754
1.4909 G.
Turpentine .
8727
13 •
1.4672
1-4732
1-4938
- 79
-Veirbena
8842
20
I -479 1
1.4870
I.5059G.
- 7
Winter-green
1-1423
15
1.5 163
1.5278
1-5737
+ 3
Absinthe .
9122
18
1.463 1
1.4688
1.4756F.
This table shows that in the specific gravity of these
crude essences there is hardly any perceptible variation, this
property being in most cases O G. The index of refraction
for the greater number of them falls for A between 1.46 and
1.5, the length of the spectrum, which is the difference between
the indices of refraction of H and A, or ti^-y^^, being
generally about 0.028. But the essences of parsley, sassafras,;
myrrh, winter-green, clove, anise, and cassia, appear to have
42
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
more refracting and dispersive power, and at the same time to
have a higher specific gravity. The essence of cajeput has
less influence on rays of light than any other.
The column of circular polarisation, on the other hand, re-
veals the greatest differences among these essences in degree
and direction of rotation. But I doubt whether this character-
istic can be much relied on for distinguishing essences ; for it is
found that the rotation of different samples of the same essence
varies considerably, and this not only in the crude state, but
even when the operation is conducted on pure hydrocarburets.
Name of Essences
Temp.
Densi-
ties
Rotatory
Force
Indices
of Re-
fraction
Essence of bitter almonds .
+ 12
I.OS9
{a)j=o
1.550
„ pure aspic ....
+ 12
= + 3.30
„ bergamot . . . .
+ 12
0.868
= +18.45
1.468
„ camomile ....
+ 12
0.881
= + 48.80
1.462
„ Chinese cinnamon
+ 12
L.064
=
1-593
„ Ceylon cinnamon
+ 12
1.033
—
1-563
„ caraway ....
+ 12
0.916
+ 87.33
1-493
„ cedra
+ 12
0.855
+ 88.88
1.478
„ lemon
+ 12
0.851
+ 87.05
1-479
copaiva . . . .
+ 12
—
-17.33
„ fennel
+ 12
0.984
+ 8.13
I-5SS
juniper . . . .
+ 12
0.879
- 14-79
I -495
„ clove
+ 12
1.542
=
1.061
„ lavender . . . .
+ 12
0.886
-21.20
1.467
„ English peppermint .
■
- 34-29
1.469
„ French peppermint
0.904
-14.30
„ penny- royal.
+ 25.07
„ nutmegs ....
„ neroli
—
0.874
+ 34-28
+ 10.25
1.483
„ orange (Paris flowers) .
—
0.887
1.482
„ (flowers of the South)
—
0.878
—
1.478
3J »•'...
—
0.847
1-477
„ petit grain . . . .
+ 20.47
„ Portugal . . . .
—
+ 105.20
„ rosemary ....
„ sandalwood citrine
„ sassafras ....
+ 12
0.896
0.975
1.087
+ 14.67
-24.30
+ 2.45
1-475
1.514
1.541'
,, sage
0.896
-8.93
1.475
„ turpentine ....
thyme
—
0.867
0.890
-43-50
-11.23
1.476
1-483
PHYSICAL CHARACTERS. 43
Nevertheless, it may be possible to avail ourselves of
some of these physical characters for detecting the fraudulent
mixture of essences. Thus, by addition of the essence of
turpentine, specific gravity would in almost all cases be
diminished, and the spectrum shortened. On the other hand,
the essence of pure bergaqiot has a feeble refraction, certainly
more feeble than the mixtures frequently sold under its
name. The index of refraction of D has been purposely
included in the above table, because this ray can always be
obtained from daylight, or more conveniently from the flame
spirit of wine combined with a salt. Any instrument-maker
might easily devise a simple apparatus for thus testing
samples of essences.
These crude essences have been submitted to fractional
distillation in order to separate their constituent principles.
The hydrocarburets thus rectified had, moreover, been purified
by repeated distillation with sodium. This alkaline metal
generally combines with oxydated essences to form a resinous
non -volatile substance ; but it is impossible to assert that a
new hydrocarburet is ever yielded. Some of these com-
pounds containing oxygen — for example, those of different
species of melaleuca — may be distilled with sodium without
undergoing any change.
The figures contained in the preceding table differ widely
from those obtained by M. Buignet.' These differences
depend on the degrees of purity of the essences. Those used
in the experiments of the learned professor of the school of
pharmacy, having been prepared by himself, his results are
entitled to our confidence. We may remark, however, that
in the preceding table the operations were conducted at vari-
able temperatures ; while the results given in the following
table were obtained for all the operations at -I- 13°.
• Journal de Pharmacie el de Chimie, 3rd series, 1861. Vol. xi., pp. 261,
64, and 331.
44
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
M. Buignet extended his experiments to the fixed oils.
As these are frequently employed in perfumery, and as theif
physical and optical properties are but little known, we give
below the results of M. Buignet's experiments, adding to
them the statement of densities.
Names of Oils
of sweet almonds
bitter almonds
ben
colza .
beech-nut .
cod-liver (golden)
„ (white) .
skate .
dogfish
flax . . .
black mustard
rape seed
walnut .
hazel-nut
olives .
poppies
fish .
castor-oil plant
Densities
0.918+ 15
0.913
0.922
0.928
0.920
0.928
0'939
0.917
0.912
0.928
0.924
0.919
0.924
0.969
Index of Re-
fraction
A+ 22°
for the Green
Ray
1.471
I -475
1. 48 1
1.486
1. 48 1
• I.48I
1-475
1-477
1.470
1.470
1.479
1-474
1. 48 1
Rotatory
, Force
A +15°
for the Red
Ray
(a)r=o .
O
O
O
O
O ..
— 0.20
0.82
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
+ 3.63
From this table it appears that for the fixed oils, castor oil
excepted, the rotatory force is nil. Of this fact we can avail
ourselves for the recognition of certain frauds ; for example,
the adulteration of copaiva with castor oil. On the other
hand, almost the whole series of essences possess a rotatory
force, with which it is very interesting to compare their
energy.
All the essences of the aurantiacea are right-handed, and
in the highest degree, and essences derived from the different
parts of one and the same plant are quite different. The
essences of labiated plants, with the exception of rosemary,
OCTAVE OF ODOURS. 45
cause the plane of polarisation to deviate towards the left ;
and essences from plants of the genera mentJia and lavatidula
do not act in the same direction as those of peppermint and
lavender.
The essences of caraway and fennel, derived from
the fruits of two umbellifercB, are both right-handed ; and
the essences of turpentine and juniper, both coniferce, act
in the same direction. But, strange to say, the essence of
common turpentine from Pinus Tceda acts in a reverse direc-
tion.
Scents, like sounds, appear to influence the olfactory nerve
in certain definite degrees. There is, as it were, an octave of
odours like an octave in music ; certain odours coincide, like
the keys of an instrument. Such as almond, -heliotrope,
yariilla, and clematis blend together, each .producing different
degrees of a nearly similar impression. Again, we have
citron, lemon, orange peel, and verbei\a, forming a highei
octave of smells, which blend in a similar manner. The
analogy, is completed by what we are pleased to call ^emi-
odours, such as. rose and rose-geranium for the half note;
petty grain, neroli, a black key, followed by fleur d' orange.
Then we have patchouly, santalwood and vitivert, and rnany
others running into each other. ' Chambers's Journal,' review-
ing the first edition of this work, says, in reference to this
remark of ours, thatr— . -
We know that music depends upon a fixed mathematical law, not
invented by man, but existing in nature. Nature is not a prodigal in her
pperations— she is no waster of power : the better .she is understood, the
more simple she appears ; and there is nothing, therefore, contrary to
sound reason in the idea, that the whole of the pleasures of the sense of
smell will be found to depend upon cogilate laws.
From the odours already known, we may produce, by
uniting them in proper proportion, . the smell of almost
any flower, except jasmine. Reviewing an early edition
46 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of this book in 'Household Words,' July 3, 1857, Dickens
says : —
is jasmine, then, the mystical Meru — the centre, the Delphi, the
Omphalos of the floral world ? Is it the point of departure — the one un-
approachable and indivisible unit of fragrance ? Is jasmine the Isis of
flowers, with veiled face and covered feet, to be loved of all, yet dis-
covered by none ? Beautiful jasmine ! If it be so, the rose ought to be
dethroned, and the Inimitable enthroned queen in her stead. Revolutions
and abdications are exciting sports ; suppose we create a civil war among
the gardens, and crown the jasmine empress and queen of all ?
The odours of some flowers resemble others so nearly,
that we are almost induced to believe them to be the same
thing, or at least, if not evolved from the plant as such,
to become so by the action of the air-oxidation. It is
known that some actually are identical in composition,
although piroduced from totally different plants., such as
camphor, turpentine, rosemary. Hence we may presume
that chemistry will sooner or later produce one from the
other, for with many it is merely an atom of water or an
atom of oxygen that causes the difference. It would be
a grand thing to produce otto of roses from oil of rose-
mary, or from the rose geranium oil ; and theory indicates
its possibility.
The essential oil of almonds in a bottle that contains
a good deal of air-oxygen, and but a very little of
the oil, spontaneously passes into an inodorous body, ben-
zoic acid ; which is seen in crystals to form over the dry
parts of the flask. This is a natural illustration of this
idea.
To the • unlearned ' nose all odours are alike ; but when
tutored, either for pleasure or profit, no member of the body
is more sensitive. Wine merchants, tea brokers, drug dealers,
tobacco importers, and many others have to go through a
regular nasal educational course. A hop merchant buries
ODOURS REMEMBERED. 47
his nose into a pocket, takes a sniff, and then sets his price
upon the bitter flower.
The odours have to be remembered, and it is noteworthy
here to remark with what persistence odours do fix themselves
upon the memory ; and were it not for this remembrance of
an odour, the merchants in the trades above indicated would
so6n be at fault. An experienced perfumer will have two
hundred odours in his laboratory, and can distinguish every
one by name. Could a musician, with an instrument of two
hundred notes, distinguish and name any note struck, without
his seeing the instrument .'
In the following gamut I have endeavoured to place the
name of the odour in its position corresponding to its effect
upon our olfactory sense.
I have purposely chosen those odours which are more
especially used in perfumery ; but I wish it to be understood
that all odours, from whatever source derived, may be simi-
larly classified. I know of no odour in a chemical laboratory
— and they are pretty numerous — to which I could not assign
its corresponding key.
There are odours to which neither sharps nor flats are
known, and there are otTiers which would almost form a
gamut in themselves by their variety of differences. The
most numerous class of odours in nature are of the lemon
character.
If a perfumer desires to make a bouquet from primitive
odours, he must take such odours as chord together ; the
perfume will then be harmonious. In passing the eye down
the gamut it will be seen what is a harmony and what is a dis-
cord of smells. As an artist would blend his colours, so must
a perfumer blend his scents.
In making several perfumes for choice they must be so
mixed as to form a contrast when side by side.
48
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
r4
O
Q
O
\u
O
<
O
■ w
H
•WW
i-
til
b
M
►J
u
o
o
w"
►J
M
H
.11
,u
^fl^^
tf
F Civet.
E Verbena.
D Citronella.
C Pineapple.
B Peppermint.
A Lavender.
G Magnolia.
F Ambergris.
E Cedrat.
D Bergamot.
C Jasmine.
B Mint.
A Tonquin Bean.
G Syringa.
F Jonquille.
E Portugal.
D Almond.
C Camphor.
B Southernwood.
A Vernal Grass (new Hay).
G Orange Flower.
F Tuberose.
E ^cacia.
D Violet.
GAMUT OF ODOURS.
49
IL.J
b
u
o
i)
k
"i
ttr4
■ttr"p
rtt11i
tttt>
C Rose.
B Cinnamon.
A Tolu.
G Sweet Pea.
F Musk.
E Orris.
D Heliotrope.
C Geranium.
B Stocks and Pinks.
A Balsam of Peru.
G Pergalaria.
F Castor.
E Calamus.
D Clematis.
C Santal.
B Clove.
A Storax.
G Plumeria Alba (Frangipanni Plant)
F Benzoin.
E Wallflower.
D Vanilla.
C Patchouly.
50
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The complementary of vanilla is citronella. The following
recipes will give an idea how to make a bouquet according
to the laws of harmony : —
Bass.
G Pergalaria.
G Sweet Pea.
D Violet.
F Tuberose.
G Orange Flower.
B Southernwood.
Bouquet of chord G.
Treble.
Bass.
C Santal.
C Geranium.
E Acacia.
G Orange Flower.
C Camphor.
Bouquet of chord C.
Treble.
Bass.
F Musk.
C Rose.
F Tuberose.
A Tonquin Bean.
C Camphor.
F Jonquil.
Bouquet of chord F.
Treble.
In making a bouquet, every primitive odour must be
brought to some standard of strength, or ' power of odour.'
Thus, the standard of spirit of roses is, three ounces of otto
rose to one gallon of spirit. But the standard of geranium is
eight ounces of otto geranium to one gallon of spirit — the
ottos differing in ' power of odour ' as three is to eight. Elec-
tricians make a clear difference between ' intensity ' and
' quantity ; ' verbena may be cited as indicating the former,
ANALOGY OF MUSIC AND ODOUR. 51
vanilla as the latter. Camphor is three times more intense
than rose.
There is a property in sound and in light, says Sir
David Brewster, too remarkable to be passed without notice.
' Two loud sounds may be made to produce silence, and two
strong lights may be made to produce darkness.'
A similar analogy exists in the most powerful odours.
Concentrated ammonia and concentrated acetic acid neutralise
each other, and produce an inodorous body. It will be said,
here is chemical combination,— admitted ; but the odours,
now lost, can be readily reproduced in their natural potency.
Several of our poets have been singularly happy in their
allusions to the analogy which exists between music and
odour. Thus Keats says : —
Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard
Are sweeter.
Again Shelley sang thus : — -
The hyacinth, purple, and white, and blue,
Which flung from its bells a sweet peal anew
Of music so delicate, soft, and intense.
It was felt like an odour within the sense !
Who does not remember the line in Shakspeare : —
It fell upon mine ear
Like the sweet south, stealing and giving odour.
See also Calder Campbell's lines, 'A fragrant orchestra,' p. 147.
Professor Newman has remarked that there is a point at which all
sciences osculate. This becomes more apparent daily. The chemist
must be a mathematician ; so must the thorough musician. Optics have
lately come to the aid of chemistry ; and the most recent discovery, the
metal thaUium, revealed itself to our knowledge by a line of intense gieen
light upon the spectrum. Thus, again, chemistry aids astronomy ; the
spectrum analysis, dealing with the solar and stellar light, enables us at
least to conjecture what elements exist in other spheres of the universe.
What shall we say of Piesse's theory, which finds close analogy between
scents and musical notes ?
E 2
52 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
'There is a "continuity" pervading the universe; everything gives
proof of it.' These were the words of Judge Grove when he was President
of the British Association. This is clearly but another expression of my
argument — that there is a union between the senses of taste and smell
on one hand, and between sound and smell on the other, vifhich in-
dicates their 'continuity.'
Where there are disagreeable odours, and it is at the same
time impossible to get rid of them by an air current, the best
neutraliser is another odour. For this purpose, and with what
beneficial result brown paper is burned now and then in our
homes, is well known.
In this way the cadaverous odours of our old cathedrals
and abbeys, formerly used as burial-places, were overcome
with the vapour of incense ; not merely masked, as some
persons assert, but neutralised by combination.
Pestiferous emanations are all of an alkaline, if not am-
moniacal character, and readily combine with the products of
slow combustion, all of which are acid, or have an acid char-
acter in their chemical reactions. Those subtle emanations
which engender disease, whether derived from the malarious
swamp, or as effete matter from the lungs of a disordered
person, are at once destroyed by the odorous vapours result-
ing from slow combustion.
To us it appears that the phenomenon of disinfection by
gases, vapours, or products of combustion, is a far more com-
plex process, and that it is difficult to make a satisfactory
generalisation on the subject. In some cases all that is done
is the dispersion of a bad odour by a wholesome one, or by
one less bad ; but then there is no disinfection properly so
called. It is simply the temporary displacement of one odour
by another. In other cases, real chemical combinations take
place between different odorous bodies, and new inodorous
compounds are produced ; as, for example, the saturation of
ammonia by acetic acid, or that of the sulphydrate of am-
SWEET FUMIGATION. 53
monia by sulphate of iron. Or again there may be a con-
densation of odorous bodies by porous bodies, as in the case
of charcoal. But in some cases the odorous substances are
completely destroyed. This appears to be effected by
chlorine, nitrous vapours, &c. Lastly, there are some an-
tiseptic agents which act by exhausting or diminishing the
source of infection.
Benzoin is the principal ingredient in all the vended
combustions for sweet fumigation. This yields by heat the
highly volatile benzoic acid : in default of having matter with
which it can combine, it will, when diffused in a house, cling
to the walls and penetrate every nook and cranny.
From what we have just said it follows that the odorous
body in this case is not benzoic acid itself, but some peculiar
essential or fatty matter which accompanies the combustion
of benzoin.
Fever may have its own in one chamber ; but it will rarely
penetrate another room, even in the same house, if there be
an occasional sacrifice of incense.
The smell of burning flesh is most revolting,— no wonder
the Romans burnt incense at the funeral pile.
Perhaps it was the bad smell of a burning heretic that
induced us to quench the martyrs' fire ; for England had no
incense in those days.
Here, again, the phenomenon of disinfection is complex.
The burning of incense or of other analogous bodies, for the
purpose of disinfection, acts in one of the following ways :—
1st, by producing aromatic vapours which mask the ill
odours ; 2nd, by setting up a current of air and thereby a
slight ventilation ; 3rd, by producing various acids which
may neutralise the infectious bodies, gaseous, alkaline, or at
least basic ; or 4th, by forming aromatic products which
prevent the fresh formation of infectious products.
Recent researches, especially those of Professor Mante-
54 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
gazza, communicated to the Institute of Lombardy, would
seem to show that the ancients, after all, were by no means
tollowing merely imaginative or superstitious speculations
in the practice they adopted of attempting, by the free use
of odoriferous substances, to guard themselves against the
attack of infectious diseases. This subject was deemed of
sufficient importance to be referred to in the opening remarks
of the presiding chairman of the public health section of the
recent British Medical Association, and as one deserving of
careful study. Whether we shall, however, ever recur to the
practice of Acron, of Agrigentum, and other followers of
Empedocles, the physicist who not only used aromatic and
balsamic herbs as preventives of pestilence, oftentimes plant-
ing them in abundance, for that purpose, round their cities, or
adopt a similar course to that followed in a plague that once
devastated Italy, when, acting on the advice of the faculty of
the day, strangers crowding into Rome retreated to Lauretum,
now San Laurenzo, that by a cooler atmosphere and by the
odour of laurel they might escape the chance of infection, we
cannot pretend to say. But it would really seem that we
may, with increased confidence, rely upon our camphor bags,
our lavender bundles, and the like, for Mantegazza says that
in the oxidation of the essences of odoriferous plants a large
quantity of ozone is evolved, at least as much as is generated
by electricity or phosphorus, the ozone being developed by
the direct action of the sun's rays, and in some cases whilst
this commences in solar light it continues in the dark. The
plants which give most ozone readily are cherry-laurel, clove,
and lavender; among herbs, the narcissus, hyacinth, and
mignionette; and amongst perfumes, eau Hongroise, oil of
bergamot, and certain aromatic tinctures. The cultivation
of herbs and odorous flowers, ' in marshy districts and in
places infected with animal emanations,' is the advice which
Mantegazza gives.
ANOSMIA. ss
Although tastes do differ, yet is worthy perhaps of being
recorded — namely, that the scents which are most liked by
youth are of lower bass note, while that of age prefer the
upper treble.
There are notably many persons who are Anosmic ; that
is, wanting the power of smelling : to such all odours are alike.
' Noses have they, but they smell not ;' they resemble persons
who are deaf because they cannot hear, or others blind be-
cause they cannot see. Anosmia is far more prevalent from
the habit of not using the nose as a faculty than from its
original purpose. On the other hand, there are persons who are
Hyper-Osmic, that is, very sensitive to smelling. Of such are
the Kingdom of Fragrance and the Earthly Sanitary inspec-
tors of nuisances.
ODOURS OF THE EARTHS.
All those materials, which are distinguished in ordinary con-
versation as earths, give out. a peculiar and characteristic odour
immediately they are wetted with water. Every pedestrian
on the high-road in the country, during the summer months,
b'eing ' caught in a shower,' must have remarked the delightful
fragrance that fills the air a few minutes after the rain has
fallen, and then passes away. When chalk, or rather whiting,
is mixed with water, an odour is evolved which is very per-
sistent, but by no means fragrant to every nose ; again, oxides
of iron, manganese, and many other bodies in the category of
earthy substances, give out odour when wetted. At present
we can do no more than simply record the fact, without
entering into speculation as to the cause of these phenomena,
without indeed it be of a negative kind, in stating that these
odours are certainly not due to any matter in the water prior
to its touching the earth, for the same result has been noticed
when the purest distilled water has been used for the purpose
of the experiment ; neither can the observation be confined
56 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
solely to earth and water, for when hydrochloric acid is poured
on to oxide of zinc, there is a pleasant odour given out, as
a by-product of the combination which then takes place
between the acid and zinc, or more probably by the
formation of a new hydrocarbon between the H of the HCl
and the minute portion of C or of As found in commercial
zinc.
The disengagement of these odours from the earths is
owing to the presence of organic matters, or of odorous gases
absorbed by porous earths and displaced by water. With
respect to the odour disengaged when zinc is treated with
hydrochloric acid, the explanation may be various, according
to circumstances.
COLOURING PRINCIPLE OF THE VOLATILE OILS.
Gmelin has with great accuracy expounded all that was
known in his day about the composition of essences. Since
that time these bodies have been studied by a great number
of chemists, among whom we may name MM. Bonastre, Piria,
Cahours, DeviUe, Berthelot, Chaulard, &c.
The study of the colouring matter of essences has led me
to the discovery of a body which I have named azulene. The
facts ascertained respecting it are the following.
It is generally known that the essences or essential oils
of vegetable bodies are characterised by particular colours,
— yellow, blue, green, brown, or white, i.e. colourless.
In my investigations respecting the substances to which
these colours are owing, I have, I believe, discovered their
nature, and I will here set forth the particulars established.
The most interesting among them is the blue substance
which colours the essence of camomile, for it reappears in
other volatile oils, and imparts to them a green colour under
the disguise of a yellow resin, which occurs also in the green
AZULENE. 57
volatile oils. "When the blue essence of camomile is sub-
mitted to fractional distillation, it is easy to separate the
colourless hydrocarbon of anthemidine ' from the blue colour,
because the latter requires a much higher temperature for its
vaporisation than the former.
By the fractional distillation of the essence of wormwood,
or of absinthe, I obtain first an almost colourless hydro-
carbon ; at the third fractionnement, an oil of a fine green
colour, which, at the fifth, separates into a blue oil and a
residuum of a yellow colour. By submitting to fractional
distillation some essence of patchouly distilled from the leaves
of the Indian plant, Pogostemon Patchouly, I likewise obtain
first a colourless hydrocarbon ; afterwards, but not till the
eleventh fractionnement, a fine blue oil and a yellow brown
residuum. The necessity for so many fractional repetitions
for the separation of the blue oil arises from the fact that
the boiling points of the patchouly hydrocarbon, of the blue
oil and of the resin, are all very high, and very nearly the
same.
The essence of bergamot, extracted from the rind of the
fruit of Citrus Bergamo, and the essence o{ Andropogon SchcE-
nanthus (Ceylon lemon grass) when treated in the same way,
yield small quantities of this blue substance.
On several occasions, when rectifying the blue liquid
extracted from these various essences, I have succeeded in
freeing it from all foreign substances and in bringing it to a
state of perfect purity. It then boils at a temperature of 302°
centigr. ; and its specific gravity is 0.910. When raised to
boiling point it gives out a dense vapour of a blue colourj
which presents som.e special characteristics to the eye. This
substance I have named azidene (from azure). The analysis
of azulene gives the following formula : —
' The principle of the essence of camomile (Anthemis noHlis).
S8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
C12
O
Calculated
Actual
82.05
81.21
11.10
10.95
6.85
7.84
100.00
100.00
Or CH'^ + HO.
The yellow colouring matter which gives its tinge to
various essences appears to be an oxidised part of them.
In almost all cases, essences, though colourless immediately
after their extraction, become yellow by lapse of time ; that is
to say, by oxidation. This change, however, is not universal ;
for essence of nutmeg remains colourless for a long time,
even when air is introduced by suction. The oxidised por-
tion of oils coloured yellow, when separated from the pure oil
in which it is dissolved, is a real resin. As most essences
get oxidised during distillation, it happens that their colour
varies from pale yellow to deep red. Most essences when
fresh — that is to say, newly distilled — are of a pale green
colour, which indicates the presence of azulene ; but as
oxidation proceeds, the yellow resin produced covers the
azulene. Hence we have —
A. Colourless essences containing neither azulene nor
resin.
B. Yellow essences containing only resin.
C. Blue essences containing only azulene.
D. Brown, green, and yellow-green essences containing
both azulene and resin in various proportions, as indicated by
optical examination.
It is remarkable how small a quantity of azulene is suf-
ficient to colour an essence in which no yellow resin is present.
The oil of camomile, the blue colour of which is familiar to
us, contains only i per cent, of azulene. But the essence ol
patchouly, which contains 6 per cent, and that of wormwood,
which contains 3 per cent., do not look blue at all, in con-
sequence of the large quantity of yellow resin present in
CAUSE OF COLOUR IN OTTOS. 59
them. In the fractional distillation of wormwood, at the third
fractionnement, yellow resin and azulene are present in the
necessary proportions for forming a green solution. This
probably occurs also in the case of other oils known for their
green colour, such as oil of cajeput, but these I have not yet
investigated.
The chemical examination of azulene and of the part
which it plays in combination with odorous bodies will soon
furnish me, I hope, with new facts, which I propose laying
before the public.
G. E. Sachsse says : ' —
It is well known that most ethereal oils are colourless ; however, there
are a great number coloured, some of which are blue, some green, and
some yellow. Up to the present time the question has not been decided
whether it is the necessary property of ethereal oils to have a colour, or
whether their colour is not due to the presence of some colouring matter
which can be removed. It is most probable that their colour arises from
the presence of a foreign substance, as the coloured ethereal oils can at
first, by careful distillation, be obtained colourless, whilst later the
coloured portion passes over. Subsequent appearances lead to the solu-
tion of the question, and are certain evidence that ethereal oils, when
they are coloured, owe their colour to peculiar substances which, by
certain conditions, may be communicated from one oil to another. When
a mixture of oils of wormwood, lemons, and cloves is subjected to distil-
lation, the previously green-coloured oil of wormwood passes over, at the
commencement, colourless ; while, towards the end of the distillatioii,
after the receiver has been frequently charged, the oil of cloves distils
over in very dense drops of a dark green colour. It therefore appears
that the green colouring macter of the oil of wormwood has been trans-
ferred to the oil of cloves.
' Zeitschrift fiir Pharmacie.
6o THE ART OF PERFUMERY,
SECTION III.
Were not summer's distillations left
A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass,
Beauty's effect of beauty were bereft,
Nor it, nor no remembrance what it was ;
But flowers distilled, though they with winter meet,
Lease but their show, their substance still lives sweet.
Shakspeare.
FLOWERS yield perfumes in all climates, but those
growing in the warmer latitudes are most prolific in
their odour, while those from the colder are the sweetest.
Hooker, in his travels in Iceland, speaks of the delightful fra-
grance of the flowers in the valley of Skardsheidi : we know
that winter-green violets and primroses are found here, and
the wild thyme in great abundance. Mr. Louis Piesse, in
company with Captain Sturt, exploring the wild regions of
South Australia, writes : — ' The rains have clothed the earth
with a green as beautiful as a Shropshire meadow in May,
and with flowers, too, as sweet as an English violet ; the pure
white anemone resembles it in scent. The yellow wattle,
when in flower, is splendid, and emits a most fragrant odour.'
A writer in Upper Canada says : —
By the way, I send you herewith a withe or two of our ' Indian grass,'
whose delicious scent you will not fail to remark. . . . You have nothing
of the kind in England to compare with it, and I wonder your perfumers
do not use it. It's very plentiful here.
Every country and clime offers up its ripened odours from the earth
to the Most High. The mighty and majestic Alps are redolent with
SEATS OF THE ART. 6 1
.choicest aromatics ; the frigid zone is sumptuous with ralrest perfumes j
Jtliat wrinkled and garrulous old grey-beard, Ocean, lavishes up ambergris
.on his sands ; the hottest region, the torrid zone, regales the senses with
their concentrated volatile spirits, constituting the delicious aroma ai
their divers products, unknown to chyrriical analyses. — Forster Ker.
Though many of the finest perfumes come from the East
Indies, Ceylon, Mexico, and Peru, the South of Europe is the
only real garden of utility to the perfumer. Grasse,' Cannes,^
and Nice are the principal seats of the art ; from their
geographical position, the grower, within comparatively short
distances, has at command that change of climate best fitted
to bring to perfection the plants required for his trade. On
the seacoast, his cassie grows without fear of frost, one night
of which would destroy all the plants for a season ; while,
nearer the mountains of the Estrelle (at the foot of the Alps),
his violets are found sweeter than if grown in the warmer
situations, where the' orange tree and the tuberose bloom to
perfection. England can claim superiority in the growth of
' Grasse is situated twelve miles nortli of Cannes, rising considerably from the
■sea up the Estrelle Mountains. It contains a population of about 12,000. Here
is situated the great perfumery works of MM. Pilar, freres.
2 Cannes, or Cagnes, is a small seaport on the Mediterranean, at the S.E.
extremity of France. Here Napoleon I. landed from Elba on the 1st of March,
181 5. It is situated twenty-one miles from Nice, nine miles from Grasse, 120
miles from the port of Marseilles, and fourteen miles from the Var, which till the
cession of .Savoy by Victor Emmanuel separated France from Sardinia.- This river
IS crossed by a loiig wooden bridge, which is not uhfr'equently washed away by
the overwhelming torrents, which bring with them enormous masses of stone and
other matter, ultimately received by the sea. On each side of this bridge were
(i860) the French and Sardinian Custom-houses. Cannes is sometimes termed
.an ' Enghsh colony,' from its having become the winter abode of several dis-
tinguished persons, among them the Right Hon. Lord Brougham, whose residence
is -the Chateau Eleanora Louisa,. so named after his lordship's late daughter, to
whose memory it is dedicated, and on the subject of whose loss the most feeling
•verses by Lord Carlisle, Marquis Wellesley, and her father, are inserted in the
interior walls. She died at the age of seventeen, and the deep and everlasting
devotion to her memory is a touching trait in the character of the acute lawyer and
brilhant statesman. Here are situated the perfumery works of M. L. Herman.
The present population of Cannes is about 8,000,
62 THE ART OF PERPUMERY.
lavender and peppermint ; the essential oils extracted from
these plants grown at Mitcham, in Surrey, and at Hitchin, in
Hertfordshire, realise eight times the price in the market of
those produced in France or elsewhere, and are fully worth
the difference for delicacy of odour. At Cannes are produced
all the products of rose, tuberose, cassie, jasmine, and orange-
neroli. At Nimes the cultivators direct their chief attention
to thyme, rosemary, aspic, and lavender. At Nice the factors
have a spicialiti for violet and r^s^da. Sicily yields lemon
and orange, Italy orris and bergamot.
The essence of mint prepared at the works of M. Chardin-
Hadaucourt, near Paris, from plants cultivated over a large
surface in the plain of Gennevilliers, combines in itself the
qualities of delicacy and strength, characteristic of the
Mitcham essence, and of that of the south of France. Paris
holds also an indisputable superiority in the manufacture of
■the essences of angelica, tarragon, hyssop, wormwood, &c.
The odours of plants reside in different parts of them,
sometimes in the root, as in the iris and vitivert ; the stem or
wood, in cedar and santal ; the leaves, in mint, patchouly,
and thyme ; the flower, in the roses and violets ; the seeds,
in the Tonquin bean and caraway ; the bark, in cinna-
mon, &c.
Some plants yield more than one odour, which are quite
distinct and characteristic. The orange-tree, for instance,
gives three — from the leaves one caWed petit grain ; from the
flowers we procure neroii; and from the rind of the fruit,
essential oil of orange, named ' Portugal! On this account,
perhaps, this tree is the most valuable of all to the operative
perfumer. The best neroii is yielded not by the sweet orange-
tree, but by the Seville. The essence extracted from its fruit is
the essence of Bigarade, and not that of Portugal, which is
derived from the sweet orange.
ODOURS SECRET EB. 63
The fragrance or odour of plants is owing, in nearly all
cases, to a perfectly volatile oil, either contained in small
vessels, or sacs, within them, or generated from time to time,
during their life, as when in blossom. Some few exude, by
incision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin, olibanum, myrrh, &c. ;
others give, by the same act, what are called balsams, which
appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous
gum. Some of these balsams are procured in the country
to which the plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a
time, straining, and then boiling again, or evaporating it down
till it assumes the consistency of treacle. In this latter way
is balsam of Peru procured from the Myroxylon peruiferum,
and the balsam of Tolu from the Myroxylon toluiferum.
Though these odours are agreeable, they are not much
applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by some they
are mixed with soap, and in England they^are valued more
for their medicinal properties than for their fragrance.
The odours of flowers are more generally secreted during
the sunshine, or at least, in the day time ; but there are some
which yield no odour in the day, but are very fragrant in the
evening, such as the Cestrum nocturnum, the Lychinis vesper-
tina, some of the Catasetum and the Cymbidium.
There are a few flowers which receive their specific name,
tristis, SAD, on account of their being odoriferous only at
night ; such are Hesperis tristis, and Nyctanthes Arbor tristis.
In an article in the 'Journal de Pharmacie,' 'by M. Recluz,
' on the effects of the sun's rays upon the flowers of the
Cacalia septentrionalis,' he says : — ' When the sun shines upon
the flowers of this plant, they are odoriferous, but when the
sun's rays are intercepted by artificial means — that is, by
interposing the hand — their odour quickly disappears, but
their fragrance returns as rapidly when the shade is removed.'
Marren states, as quoted by Dr. Balfour, that the flowers
' Page 216, 1827.
64 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of the Habenaria bifolia, growing near Liege, which are quite
scentless during the day, give out a pleasant penetrating
aroma in the evening, usually about 1 1 P.M. He found that
the perfume manifested itself at twilight, exhibiting the
greatest energy at the time when the darkness of night pre-
vailed, and decreased with the dawn. Two racines of flowers
of this orchid were placed in two cylindrical glasses filled
with water, in which the plants were totally submerged ; one
glass was placed in the sunshine, the other in the shade. As
evening came on, a delicious aroma became evident, and was
emitted during the night, but disappeared at sunrise. These
experiments induced Marren to come to the conclusion that
the odour of flowers depends on some physiological cause, and
not on the evaporation of particles, nor the accumulation of
them in parts of the plants where they have their origin. He
found that aromatic orchids, such as \}ae Marillaria aromatica,
lost their perfume half an hour after the application of pollen
had been artificially made, and that the unfertilised flowers
retained their odour the longest time.
M. Trinchinetti, who has also experimentalised on the
odours of plants, divides odoriferous flowers into two classes : —
I. Those in which the intermission of odour is connected
with the opening and closing of the flower ; and in this class
there are two subdivisions.
A. Flowers which are closed and scentless during the day,
and are open and odoriferous at hight, such as Mirahilis
jalapa, M. dichotomy, M. longiflora. Datura ceratocaiila,
Nyctanthes Arbor tristis, Cereus grutidiflcrus, C. nycticalus,
C. serpentinus, Mesembryanthemum noctifiot'um, and some
species of Silene.
B. Flowers which are closed and scentless during the
night, and are open and odoriferous during the day, such as
Convulvulus arvensis, Cuturbita P-epo, Nyjnphma alba, and
Nymphc^a ccerttlea.
EXUDATION OF ODOURS. 65
2. Flowers which are always open, but which are
odoriferous at one time and scentless at another. Under
this class there are two sections : —
A. Flowers always open, and only odoriferous during the
day, such as Cestrum dinrnum, Caronilla glauca, and Cacalia
septetitrionalis.
B. Flowers always open, but only fragrant at night, such
as Pelargonium triste, Cestrum nocturnum, Hesperis tristis,
and Gladiolus tristis.
The exudation of odours by nocturnal flowers sometimes
takes place in a peculiarly intermittent manner. Thus, in the
night-blooming Cereus {Cereus grandiflorus), the flowers are
fragrant only at intervals, giving out puffs of odour every half
hour, from eight in the evening till midnight. Balfour,' or
the authority of Marren, states that on one occasion the
flowers began to expand at six o'clock in the evening, when
the first fragrance was perceptible in the hot-house. A quarter
of an hour afterwards, the first puff" of odour took place, after
a rapid motion of the calyx ; at twenty-three minutes past
six there was another powerful emanation of fragrance ; by
thirty-five minutes past six the flowers were completely
open ; at a quarter to seven the odour of the calyx was the
strongest, but modified by the petals ; after this time the
emanation of odour took place at the same periods as before.
Observations have been made by Cohler and Schiibler ^ in
regard to odoriferous flowers as occurring in species belonging
to certain orders in relation to their colours. They have
formed a table of the coloured flowers, which they examined
according to their odoriferous qualities, and the colours which
they bear.
As will be 'seen by the annexed table, white flowers are
the most fragrant and pleasing to the smell, while the orange
and brown coloured flowers are of little use to the perfumer.
' Balfour's Class-Book of Botany. ^ Quoted by Balfour.
F
66
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Colours
Species
Odori-
ferous
Odours
agreeable
Disagreeable
odours
White .
Yellow .
Red
Blue
Iris.
Green (?)
Orange .
Brown .
1 193
951
923
594
307
153
50
18
187
75
85
31
23
12
3
I
175
61
76
23
17
10
I
12
14
9
7
6
2
2
The Monocotyledons examined were found to contain 14
per cent, of odoriferous species, while the Dicotyledons only
contain 10 per cent. In the case of the natural orders
examined, the colours were associated with the odours as
follows : —
Natural family
Prevailing colour
Odoriferous flowers
per cent.
Water Lily family .
White and Yellow .
22
Rose ....
Red, Yellow, and White.
•31
Primrose
White and Red .
12.3
Borage .
Blue and White
5-9
Convolvulus .
Red and White
4-13
Ranunculus .
Yellow .
4.1 1
Poppy ....
Red and Yellow .
2
Campanula .
Blue .
I-3I
In laying out a garden which we may desire to please us
by its fragrance as well as its beauty, we cannot do better
than be guided by the above facts in the selection of flowers
to cultivate in it, nor can those who admire the paradisiacal
perfume of a garden at evening's close neglect the growth of
nocturnal flowers without losing many pleasures derived from
the particles which they throw into the ' breath of life,' so
subtile and ethereal withal as to be beyond the material grasp
of the chemical philosopher. ^
The extensive flower farms in the neighbourhood of Nice,
FLOWER FARMING STATISTICS. 67
in Savoy ; Montpellier, Nimes, Grasse, and Cannes, in
France ; at Adrianople (Turkey in Europe) ; at Broussa and
Uslak (Turkey in Asia) ; at Gazepore (India), and at Mitcham
and Hitchin, in England, in a measure indicate the commercial
importance of that branch of chemistry called Perfumery.
British India and Europe consume annually, at the very
lowest estimate, 150,000 gallons (!) of perfumed spirits, under
various titles, such as Hungary Water, Essence of Lavender,
Esprit de Rose, &c. The art of Perfumery does not, however,
confine itself to the production of scents for the handkerchief
and bath, but extends to imparting odour to inodorous bodies,
such as soap, oil, starch, and grease, which are consumed at
the toilette of fashion. Some idea of the commercial import-
ance of this art may be formed, when we state that one of
the large perfumers of Cannes, M. Herman, employs annually
140,000 lbs. of orange flowers, 12,000 lbs. of cassie flowers,
140,000 lbs. of rose leaves, 32,000 lbs. of jasmine blossoms,
20,000 lbs. of violets, 8,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of
cassie, besides rosemary, mint, lemon, citron, thyme, and
other odorous plants in larger proportion. In fact, the
quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far
beyond the conception of those even used to abstract
statistics.
FLOWER FARMING STATISTICS.
Thirty thousand Jasmine plants will occupy an area of
land equivalent to 1,500 metres (rather more than one-third
of an acre), and will produce during the entire season, 1,000
kilogrammes' of flowers.
Five thousand Rose-tree plants will occupy 1,800 metres of
land (nearly half an acre), and will produce 10 kilogrammes
of rose-flowers during the season.
One hundred Orange-trees, at the age of 10 years, will
' The kilogramme is very nearly 2 lbs. 3 oz.
F 2
68 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
occupy 4,000 metres of land (one acre), and will produce,
during the season, 1,000 kilogrammes of orange-flowers.
Eight hundred Geranium plants will occupy 2,000 metres
of land, the produce of which, during the season, will be 1,000
kilogrammes of geranium-leaves.
Violets. — S,000 metres of land (i^ acre), planted with
violets, will produce 1,000 kilogrammes of violet-flowers during
the season.
Tubereuse. — 70,000 tubereuse-roots will produce 1,000 kilo-
grammes of flowers during the season, and will require 10,000
metres of land (2\ acre) for their culture.
The annual produce of violet-flowers at Nice and at
Cannes amounts to 25,000 kilogrammes (Grasse does not
produce violets), the annual manufacture of which into oils
and pomades is 12,000 kilogrammes ; if, however, the produce
furnished by the different manufactures were genuine, they
would not be able to produce more than 6,000 kilogrammes
of the essence in its pure state from the quantity of flowers
just mentioned.
Nice produces 200,000 kilogrammes of orange-flowers
annually.
The produce of orange-flowers at Cannes and the adjacent
villages is 435,000 kilogrammes ; these are of a much superior
quality and in every way better adapted for manufacture
than those of Nice, which are, indeed, fit for distillation only.
One thousand kilogrammes of orange-flowers produce
800 grammes of pure neroli ; 600 kilogrammes of orange-
flower leaves produce i kilogramme of pure petit grain.
Cannes produces annually from 16,000 to 18,000 kilo-
grammes of cassie-flowers. It may be remarked that the
cassie-flower is a product which belongs exclusively to the
soil of Cannes, as the tree which produces it will not grow
to perfection either at Nice or at Grasse. The last-named
locality is also deficient in the production of orange-trees :
ALGERIAN FLOWER FARMS. 69
these are obtained only from Cannes for the manufacture of
pomades, and from Nice for distillation.
The flowers employed in the manufacture of perfumery,
such as the rose, the jasmine, and the tubereuse, are not so
generally cultivated at Grasse as at Cannes.
The annual produce of Grasse and Cannes, and of the
adjacent villages, is 40,000 kilogrammes of roses, 50,000 kilo-
grammes of jasmine, and 10,000 kilogrammes of tubereuses.
Algeria has for some years furnished considerable quan-
tities, probably 6,000 kilogrammes, of essence of geranium.
This crop is cultivated over a surface of 400 hectares
(about 1,000 acres) in the plain of Metidja,. especially at
Chesagas and Bouffarick. The climate is such as to admit
of three harvests a year instead of one as in France. But
the Algerian essence is of inferior value to that of France,
the latter being much more delicate, and its odour recalling
that of the rose.
Orange-flower Water. — According to the quantity of
orange-flowers stated to be produced at Grasse, Cannes,
and at Nice, not more than 465,000 litres or kilogrammes of
orange-flower water can be either manufactured or distilled in
a pure state with the quantity of orange-flowers supplied to the
distillers by the manufacturers of pomades ; whereas the
adulteration of this article is so great, that upwards of
1,000,000 kilogramme^ of spurious orange-water is exported.
It is, therefore, highly important that the distillation of these
flowers should be subject to a strict surveillance,
This abuse may be remedied either by the institution of
a commission for that purpose at Cannes, or by the appoint-
ment of an inspector, whose office should be to examine the
distilled waters at the moment they leave the distiller's, and
who should be empowered to punish severely in cases in
which leaf-water, or any other fraudulent mixture, may be
sold by him under the name of orange-flower water.
70 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
For my own part, it would give me great pleasure if the
French Government, whose solicitude for all matters concern-
ing the public good is so great, would devote its attention to
this important subject.'
Grasse and Cannes manufacture annually : —
Kilogrs.
1 50,000 of pomades and scented oils.
250 of pure otto of neroli.
450 „ otto of petit grain.
4,000 „ otto of lavender.
1,000 „ Roman essences.
1,000 „ otto of thyme.
The ottos of neroli and of petit grain produced at Cannes
are far superior in quality to those produced at Grasse. The
reason for this difference is obvious ; for as Grasse does not
produce the flowers which are most generally used in the
manufacture of perfumery, and can obtain them from Cannes
only, a long time must necessarily elapse between the time of
gathering them, and that of their manufacture, added to
which also their conveyance during the heat of summer is at
all times detrimental.
' Note by the editors of the French edition. — We are glad to see
that a respectable English merchant shares on this subject the opinion of his
French brethren, who are jealous of their dignity, and practise their profession
with equal intelligence and refinement. We linow, indeed, that worthy French
perfumers and distillers have long ago called for such measures as are spoken
of by Dr. Piesse ; it is in fact only smugglers and unscrupulous manufacturers
who clamour for English freedom of trade.
In our view, nothing ought to be sold under the name of orange-flower water
but distilled water made from the flowers ; and its quality ought tabe indicated
by a label bearing the usual denominations, — simple, double, triple, and qua-
druple. Water made from the leaves should bear the name of Orange-leaf water ;
the artificial water— 2.1?. the water prepared from neroli — ought to be rejected and
its manufacture prohibited. The mixing of the waters from the flowers and from
the leaves ought as strictly to be prohibited, for the most experienced judge may be
deceived, and the various chemical tests proposed for the detection of these mixtures
are inadequate. For medicinal purposes, the flower-water must be exclusively used,
as the leaf-waler possesses therapeutical properties of an altogether different
kind.
SCIENTIFIC STUDY OF PERFUMES. 71
It would be advantageous to the manufacturer, and also
to the consumer, if the flowers were consumed in the locality
in which they are produced, in order that they may be
obtained in as fresh a state as possible. It is for this oty'ect
that Cannes has witnessed the erection of a large perfumery
establishment in the midst of the gardens of M. Louis
Herman, which is certainly without an equal in the country,
and which, owing to the excellent condition of his pro-
ductions, has not failed to gain for him much popularity for
the excellence and superiority of his produce. Thisestablish-
ment manufactures annually from 38,000 to 40,000 kilo-
grammes of pomades and scented oils.
To the chemical philosopher, the study of Perfumery
opens a book as yet unread ; for the practical perfumer, on
his laboratory shelves, exhibits many rare essential oils, such
as essential oil of the flower of the Acacia farnesiana,
essential oil of violets, tubereuse, jasmine, and others, the
compositions of which have yet to be determined.
To the physicist the study of Perfumery will show him
that some hypothesis must yet be founded, on which he can
hope to build up the laws by which different odours act upon
the human intellect, in unison with its other faculties.
The exquisite pleasure derived from smelling fragrant
flowers would almost instinctively induce man to attempt to
separate the odoriferous principle from them, so as to have
the perfume when the season denies the flowers. Thus we
find the alchemists of old torturing the plants in every way
their invention could devise for this end ; and it is on their
experiments that the whole art of Perfumery has been reared.
^2 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION IV.
Should we chance to stray
Down by the hamlet's hawthorn-scented way . . .
The sight is pleased,
The scent regal'd ; each odoriferous leaf,
Each opening blossom, freely breathes abroad
Its gratitude, and thanks HIM with its sweets.
WITHOUT recapitulating those facts which may be
found diffused through nearly all the old authors
on medical botany, chemistry, pharmacy, and works of this
character, from the time of Paracelsus to Celnart, we may state
at once the mode of operation adopted by the practical per-
fumer of the present day for preparing the various extracts
of essences, waters, oils, pomades, &c., used in his calling.
The processes are divided into four distinct operations,
viz. : —
I. Expression ; 2. Distillation ; 3. Maceration ;
4. Absorption.
I. Expression is only adopted where the plant is very
prolific in its volatile or essential oil — i. e. its odour ; such, for
instance, as is found in the pellicle or outer peel of the orange,
lemon, and citron, and a few others. In these cases the parts
of the plant containing the odoriferous principle are put, some-
times in a cloth bag, and at others, by themselves, into a press,
and by mere mechanical force it is squeezed out. The press is
an iron vessel of immense strength, varying in size from six
EXPRESSION— DISTILLA TION.
73
inches in diameter, and twelve deep, and upwards, to contain
one hundred weight or more ; it has a small aperture at the
bottom to allow the expressed material to run for collection ;
in the interior is placed a perforated false bottom, and on
this the substance to be squeezed is placed, covered with
an iron plate fitting the interior ; this is connected with a
powerful screw, which, being turned, forces the substance so
closely together, that the little vessels containing the essential
oils are burst, and it thus escapes. The common tincture-
press is indeed a model of such
an instrument. Another form of
press is illustrated at p. 84. The
oils which are thus collected are
contaminated with watery extract,
which exudes at the same time, and
from which it has to be separated ;
this it does by itself to a certain
extent, by standing in a quiet
place, and it is then poured off,
and filtered when requisite.
In large establishments the
hydraulic press is most frequently
used.
2. Distillation. — The plant,
or that part of it which contains
the odoriferous principle, is placed in an iron copper, or glass
pan, varying in size from that capable of holding from one
to twenty gallons, and covered with water ; to the pan a
dome-shaped lid is fitted, terminating with a pipe, which
is twisted corkscrew fashion, and fixed in a bucket, with
the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel. The water
in the still— for such is the name of the apparatus— is
made to boil ; and, having no other exit, the steam must pass
through the coiled pipe ; which, being surrounded with cold
PIPETTE TO DRAW OFF SMALL
PORTIONS OF OTTO FROM
WATER.
74 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
water in the bucket, condenses the vapour before it can arrive
at the tap. With the steam, the volatile oil — i. e. perfume —
rises, and is liquefied at the same time. The liquids which thus
run over, on standing for a time, separate into two portions,
and are finally divided with a funnel having a stop-cock in
the narrow part. By this process, the majority of the volatile
ottos are procured. In some few instances alcohol — i. e.
rectified spirit of wine — is placed upon the odorous materials
in lieu of water, which, on being distilled, comes away with
the perfuming substance dissolved in it. But this process is
now nearly obsolete, as it is found
more beneficial to draw the oil or
essence first with water, and afterwards
to dissolve it in the spirit. The low
temperature at which the spirit boils,
compared with water, causes a great
loss of otto, the heat not being suffi-
cient to disengage it from the plant,
especially where seeds, such as cloves
or caraway, are employed. The illus-
TAP FUNNEL FOR sEPA- tration of the gigantic still (of which
RATING OTTO FROM 4.u„_ 4. J i.\- c\ l.
WATER AND SPIRIT there are two under the same roof) at
FROM OIL. Mitcham, facing the front page of this
work, exhibits a practical working
apparatus capable of receiving a ton of herbs to distil at
one time.
The stills employed by M. Louis Herman, of Cannes, Var,
France, are much smaller than the Mitcham still ; but instead
of one there are thirteen, side by side under ooe roof, as shown
in the annexed sketch. The water used to keep the worms
cool is supplied by natural springs, which flow to any part of
the manufactory, in inexhaustible quantities, from the neigh-
bouring Estrelle mountains. In this respect M. Pilar, of
Grasse, is equally fortunate, the cost of such water being
DISTILLATION.
75
merely a small sum paid to the town every year. The French
houses work their stills by the direct action of the fire to the
still, which is liable to give an empyreumatic or .burnt smell
to the distillate ; but in all the well-regulated perfumatories
of Bond Street, London, the stills are worked by the steam,
under ten or fifteen pounds' pressure, from a boiler. This
method by steam is now generally adopted in France.
The illustration on p. "jQ exhibits the best form and con-
struction of still hitherto invented, the novel parts of which
FRENCH STILLS.
were patented by the firm of Drew, Heywood, and Barron,
whose ottos and essential oils are alike known for purity and
quality.
The whole apparatus stands upon a massive foot. By
examining the sectional drawing it will be seen that the pan
is double, a hollow space existing between the inner and outer
pan, technically termed the ' steam jacket'
Steam is supplied from a boiler by the pipe S. The still
is separable into two main parts — namely, the head and the
76
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
DISTILLA TION. yj
pan ; when in use they are firmly bolted together with screws,
as shown in the drawing. Within the head of the still is fixed
the ' rouser,' which is a double cross-bar, curved to fit the pan,
to which is attached a chain, to drag over the bottom of the
pan. The whole is set in motion by an assistant turning the
handle outside in connection by the axle with the cog wheels
in the interior of the still.
Supposing the still to be charged, say with two hundred-
weight of cloves, water is supplied till the pan is nearly full ;
the head of the still is then bolted on. Steam being applied
in the jacket, the water and cloves in the pan are soon brought
to a boiling heat, and then, being well roused together, the
otto of cloves is disengaged, and carried forward by the steam
generated up the pipe marked S & O, and is quickly con-
densed in the refrigerator, running out at R, and falling into
the cistern C.
Here the otto and the water spontaneously divide, the
otto of cloves falling, and the water rising in the cistern. As
soon as the water reaches the overflow-tap, it runs into the
syphon funnel, thence into the still. Ingeniously simple as
this syphon contrivance is, the whole merit of this form of
still turns on the application of the syphon, by means of which
the same water, which left the still in the form of steam,
returns again and again into the pan. The pipes C, W
convey cold water from an outer tank to the refrigerator,,
while H, w carry off the hot water produced by the condensa-
tions taking place in the worm pipe.
In cases where the otto disengaged from the material
yielding it is lighter than water, it is obvious that the lower
tap of the cistern must be made to supply the syphon, in
place of the upper one.
It is almost needless to say that the syphon must, in the
first instance, be filled with water, in order to prevent the
escape by that orifice of any fragrant vapour from the still ;
78
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the pressure of vapour within is not then sufficient to overcome
the weight of the short column of water in the syphon.
The illustration shows a very useful form of portable still,
fit for persons entering upon the business of distilling flowers
or herbs in the Colonies. They are made by Messrs. Benham
& Froud, of sizes from one to twenty gallons, at an average
cost of about 30J. per gallon.
W^^^
yORTABLE STILL AND WORM TUB.
A, Still head.
p. Pan indicated by the dots, into which the material to be distilled and water
are placed.
1', Flue pipe.
B, Bucket containing the still worm or condenser, as shown by the dotted
screw lines within. This is connected with pipe.
J, Where the junction is made before the steam is got up.
c w, Cold water trough.
H w, Exit for hot water produced by the condensation of steam in the worm.
R, Recipient for the condensed otto and water.
M. Chardin-Hadancourt, having observed that certain
essences are more easily obtained by means of a current of
vapour than by boiling, has adopted two forms of still, ac-
FLORENTINE RECIPIENT. 79
cording to the bodies whose essences are to be extracted : —
1st, a still of spherical form, into which a jet of vapour is forced
at a pressure of 4 to 5 kilogrammes ; 2nd, a still with a double
bottom, supporting a pressure of 6 kilogrammes.
He has advantageously substituted for the worm a refri-
gerator composed of two sheets of tinned copper, 20 milli-
metres apart, which is placed in a tank of iron plate 20 centi-
metres thick, filled with cold water. To replace the water
condensed in the still he has made use of the principle of
impelling liquids by vapour under pressure by means of two
opposing cones.
Distillation, considered with regard to the preparation
either of essences or of distilled waters, merits the closest
attention of distillers. As a general rule it ought to be
effected by steam ; but there are cases in which actual contact
with water is indispensable (bitter almonds, cherry-bay). In
other cases it might be conducted by an open fire or by steam ;
but the former method may be preferable (lime-tree, cinna-
mon).
The selection of waters is of some importance. Those
which are perfectly neutral must be chosen, and those which
are rich in salts must be avoided. M. Schladenhaufen,
however, has shown that in operating on cherry-bay common
water has, contrary to all expectation, yielded a product
stronger and richer in hydrocyanic acid than distilled water.
Distilled waters and essences must be kept from contact
with air and light in vessels of glass or tinned copper, for
these products are liable to be acidified, and then they attack
metals.
As receiver of essences, that most commonly used is a
vessel of peculiar shape, named the Florentine recipient. There
are various forms of this vessel ; but all are based upon the
same principle, and are designed to effect a separation of two
liquids of different densities during the process of distillation.
8o
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The form given in the accompanying illustration is that most
frequently adopted. When the essence is lighter than water,
it escapes by the upper tube ; when heavier, by the lower.
The surplus water passes away by the opposite tube.
We have to add that, in certain cases (cinnamon, clove,
sassafras), sea salt is added to the water for the purpose of
raising its boiling-point.
And further, that when the products of distillation are
capable of being solidified at a low temperature, the worm
FLORENTINE RECIPIENTS.
must not be allowed to cool, but be kept warm. This pre-
caution is observed for essence of anise. It so happens, how-
ever, that the finest odours — the rechercM, as the Parisians
say — cannot be procured by this method ; then recourse is
had to the next process, i.e. maceration.
3. Maceration. — This operation is conducted thus : — For
what is called pomade, a certain quantity of purified beef or
deer suet, mixed with purified lard, is put into a clean metal
or porcelain pan ; this being melted by a steam heat or bath.
maceration:
8i
the kind of flowers required for the odour wanted are carefully-
picked and put to the liquid fat, and allowed to remain from
MACERATION PANS, OR BAINS-MARIE, &C.
twelve to forty-eight hours ; the fat has a particular affinity
or attraction for the otto of flowers, and thus, as it were, draws
it out of them, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly per-
fumed ; the fat is strained from the
spent flowers, and fresh are added
ten or fifteen times over, till the
pomade is of the required strength ;
these various strengths of pomatums
are noted by the French makers as
Nos. 6, 12, 1 8, and 24, the higher
numerals indicating the amount of
fragrance in them. For perfumed
oils, the same operation is followed ;
but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil ;
and the same results are obtained.
'Huile Antique' of such and such a flower.
G
SECTION OF BAIN-MARIE.
These oils are called
The maceration
82
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
pans are here illustrated (p. 8i) as used by M. March, of
Nice.
The orange, rose, and cassie compounds are principally
prepared by this process.
The violet and reseda pomades and oils are prepared first
by the maceration process, and then finished by enjleurage.
When neither of the three foregoing processes gives
satisfactory results, the method of procedure adopted is by,
4. Absorption or Enjleurage. — Of all the processes for
procuring the perfumes of flowers, this is the most important
CHASSIS EN VERRE.
to the perfumer, and is the least understood in England ; as
this operation yields not only the most exquisite essence
indirectly, but also nearly all those fine pomades known here
as ' French pomatunis,' so much admired for the strength of
fragrance, together with ' French oils,' equally perfumed. The
odours of some flowers are so delicate and volatile, that the
heat required in the previously named processes would greatly
modify, if not entirely spoil, them ; this process is, therefore,
conducted cold, thus : — Square frames, called chassis, about
ABSORPTION OR ENFLEURAGE.
83
three inches deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and
three feet long, are procured ; over the glass a layer of fat is
A represents a pile of glass sashes.
B- represents a sash with lard and flowers upon it.
c represents a wire sash for the enfleurage of oil upon a cotton fabric.
spread, about a quarter of an inch thick, with a kind of plaster
knife or spatula ; on this the flower buds are sprinkled, com-
<^
<
^
1 I I I I I rnTiT
CHASSIS EN F£R.
pletely over it, and there left from twelve to seventy-two
hours.
84
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Some houses, such as that of Messrs, Pilar and Sons,
Pascal Brothers, L. Herman, and a few others, have 3,000 such
frames at work during the season ; as they are filled, they are
piled one over the other, the flowers are changed so long as
the plants continue to bloom, which now and then exceeds
two or three months.
For oils of the same plants, coarse cotton cloths are
saturated with the finest olive oil, and laid upon a frame
SCREW PRESS.
containing wire gauze in lieu of glass ; on these the flowers
are laid, and suffered to remain till fresh flowers are procured.
This operation is repeated several time.s, after which the
cloths are subjected to a great pressure, to remove the now
perfumed oil.
In all the processes of enfleurage or maceration, greasy
substances are to this day employed, such as olive oil andj
ABSORPTION OR ENFLEURAGE.
85
the fats consisting of a mixture of lard and suet, both highly
purified.
MM. Chardin and Manignon assert that they can use the
solid paraffin of commerce as a vehicle in place of fats or oils
for the maceration and enfleurage process, and claim su-
periority, inasmuch that paraffin never becomes rancid ; this
last remark is certainly true, but the author doubts the posi-
tion advanced, because it is known that paraffin is a non-
absorbent of odour. Their best test, however, is to send their
products into the market.
As we cannot give any general rule for working, without
misleading the reader, we prefer explaining the process
required for each when we come to speak of the individual
flower or plant.
SMELLING, FROM THE DRESDEN GALLERY.
86 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION V.
Me seem'd I smelt a garden of sweet flow'rs.
That dainty odours from them threw around
For damsels fit to deck their lovers' bow'rs. — Spenser.
THE perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops
of Paris and London, are either simple or compound :
the former are called extracts, extraits, esprits, or essences ;
and the latter, boiiquets or nosegays, which are mixtures of
the extracts so compounded in quantity that no one flower or
odour can be discovered as predominating over another ; and
when made of the delicate-scented flowers carefully blended,
they produce an exquisite sensation on the olfactory nerve,
and are therefore much prized by all who can afford to
purchase them.
We shall first explain the mode for obtaining the simple
extracts of flowers. This will be followed by the process for
preparing ambergris,- musk, and civet substances, which,
though of animal origin, are of the utmost importance as
forming a large part in the most approved bouquets ; and
we shall conclude this department of the art with recipes for
all the fashionable bouquets and nosegays, the value of which,
we doubt not, will be estimated according to the labour be-
stowed upon their analysis.
In order to render the work more easy of consultation,
we have adopted the alphabetical arrangement in preference
to a more scientific classification.
Among the collection of ottos of the East India
ALLSPICE—ALMONDS. 87
Company, at the Exhibition of 1851, were several hitherto
unknown in this country, and possessing much interest.
It is to be regietted that no person, having any practical
knowledge of perfumery, was placed on the jury of Class IV. or
XXIX. Had such been the case, the desires of the exhibitors
would probably have been realised, and European perfumers
benefited by the introduction of new odours from the East.
Some of the otto.s sent by a native perfumer of Benares were
deemed worthy of honourable mention — such as Chumeylee,
Beyba, Begla, Moteya, and many others from the Moluccas,
but without any information respecting them.
We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than a tithe
of the plants that have a perfume — only those will be
mentioned that are used by the operative perfumer, and such
as are imitated by him in consequence of there being a
demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him from
obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under
our notice is
Allspice. — The odoriferous principle of allspice, com-
monly called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried
fruit, before it is quite ripe, of the Eugenia pimenta and
Myrtus pimenta with water. It is thus procured as an
essential oil ; it is but little used in perfumery, and when so,
only in combination with other spice oils for scenting soap ;
it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the smell
of cloves, and deserves more attentjon than it has hitherto
received. Mixed in the proportion of three ounces of oil of
allspice with one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms
what may be termed extract of allspice, which extract will
be found very useful in the manufacture of low-priced
bouquets. (See PlmentQ.)
ALMOND.S.
Mark well the flow'ring almond in the wood ;
If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign,
Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain. — Virgh.
This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages.
It may be procured by distilling the leaves of any of the laurel
tribe, and the kernels of stone fruit ; for trade purposes, it
is obtained from the bitter almond, and exists in the skin or
pellicle that covers the seed after it is shelled. In the
ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press for the
purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the
cake which is left after this process is then mixed with salt
and water, and allowed to remain together for about twenty-
four hours prior to distillation. The reason for moistening
the cake is well understood by the practical chemist ; and
although we are not treating the subject of perfumery in a
chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not be
inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds
does not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that
it is produced by a species of fermentation, from the amyg-
dalin and emulsine contained ifi the almonds, together with
the water that is added. Analogous substances exist in
laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be pursued when
they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened
ALMONDS.
cake into a bag of coarse cloth, or spread it upon a sieve,
and then force the steam through it ; in either case, the
essential oil of the almond rises with the watery vapour, and
is condensed in the still-worm. Fourteen pounds of the cake
yield about one ounce of essential oil. In this concentrated
form, the odour of almonds is far from agreeable ; but when
diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half
ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very
pleasant.
The essential oil of almonds enters into combination
with soap, cold cream, and many other materials prepared by
the perfumer ; for which see their respective titles.
In experiments with this substance it must be carefully
remembered that it is exceedingly poisonous, and, therefore,
great caution is necessary in its admixture with substances
used as cosmetics, otherwise dangerous results may ensue.
The essence of bitter almonds, being heavier than water,
falls to the bottom of the receiver ; and thus obtained, i. e.
in the raw state in which it is used in perfumery, it contains
variable proportions of hydrocyanic (prussic) acid, and is a
virulent poison. When purified it is still poisonous, though
much less so. Its purification is effected first by washing
in distilled water, and afterwards by distillation in contact
with potash and perchloride of iron. The pure essence may
be represented by the symbols C'^H^O^ By contact with
the air, it is transformed into benzoic acid, according to the
following equation : —
C'*H«0' + O' = C'^H^O'HO
Essence of Benzoic
bitter almonds acid.
The essence of bitter almonds, when treated with an
alcoholic solution of potash, is converted into benzoate of
potash; while the same solution changes the essence of
90 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
miribane or nitrobenzine into a resin insoluble in alcohol or
in ether. This process is available as a test for the mixture
of these two essences.
Artificial Otto of Almonds, otherwise Miribane. — Mr.
Mansfield, of Weybridge, took out a patent for the manu-
facture of otto of almonds from benzole. (Benzole is
obtained from tar oil.) His apparatus, according to the
Report of the juries of the 1851 Exhibition, consists of a
large glass tube in the form of a coil, which at the upper end
divides into two tubes, each of which is provided with a
funnel. A stream of nitric acid flows slowly into one of the
funnels, and benzole into the other. The two substances
meet at the point of union of the tubes, and a combination
ensues with the evolution of heat. As the newly formed
compound flows down through the coil, it becomes cool, and
is collected at the lower extremity ; it then requires to be
washed with water, and lastly with a dilute solution of
carbonate of soda, to render it fit for use. Nitrobenzole, which
is the chemical name for this artificial otto of almonds,
has a different odour to the true otto of almonds, but it
can nevertheless be used for perfuming soap. The late
Mr. Mansfield wrote to me under date January 3rd, 1855 :
'In 185 1, Messrs. Gosnell, of Three King Court, began to
make this perfume under my licence ; latterly I withdrew the
licence from them by their consent, and since then it is not
made that I am aware of.' Notwithstanding this remark of
Mr. Mansfield, there is plenty of Miribane in the London
market, and it is quite common in Paris.'
Anise. — The odorous principle is procured by distilling
the seeds of the plant Pimpinella anisum ; the product is the
oil of aniseed of commerce. As it congeals at a temperature
• Nitrobenzine has been made for commercial purposes by M. Laroque, at
Paris, and mure recently by M. CoUas. It is now used in the preparation of
aniline, and the beautiful colours made from it.
ANISE.
91
of about 50° Fahr., it is frequently adulterated with a little
spermaceti, to give a certain solidity to it, whereby other
cheaper essential oils can be added to it with less chance of
detection. As the oil of aniseed is quite soluble in spirit,
and the spermaceti insoluble, the fraud is easily detected.
This perfume is exceedingly strong, and is, therefore, well
adapted for mixing with soap and for scenting pomatums,
but does not do nicely in compounds for handkerchief use
The Portuguese are very fond of anise.
Several kinds of anise are known in the trade — those of
Tours, of Alby, or the South of France, Russian, German,
Maltese, and Spanish (Alicante). The last is the most
92
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
esteemed. The adulteration of oil of aniseed with soap has
been noticed. This fraud may be detected by means of
distilled water, which dissolves the soap but not the essence.
Starry Anise, or Badiani. — This is the name given to
the fruit of an evergreen shrub found in Florida. Two species
are known, the Illicium floribundum and the Illicium parvi-
Jloriini. But the one chiefly used is the Chinese Illicium
STARRY ANISE, OR BADIANI.
anisatiinu The fruit is formed by the union of from 6 to 12
capsules arranged like a star. The fruit is hard, thick, woody,
brownish, and contains an oval seed, reddish, glossy, and
brittle, within which is a white oily almond.
By distillation of this fruit with water an essence is
obtained of the same composition and possessing all the
properties of the essence of green anise ; i. e. it is composed
of two essences, the one being a hydrocarbonate and liquid, the
BALM— BALSAM. 9^
other a solid and oxygenised. These are separated by
alcohol. The essence of badiani is more agreeable than that
of anise.
The wood of the Illiciuin anisatum has the same odour
as the fruit. It was at one time thought that it furnished the
anise -wood of commerce ; but this comes from America, and
is probably produced by the Ocotea pechurini.
Balm, otto of Balm, called also oil of Melissa, is obtained
by distilling the leaves of the Melissa officinalis with water; it
comes from the still tap with the condensed steam or water,
from which it is separated in the usual way.
The sweet lemon -like odour of its leaves must render this
a general favourite.- The scent is most powerful in early
summer, just before the blossom appears, when after a
sprinkling of rain it perfumes the whole border. You con-
stantly meet with it growing wild in the south of France, but
in England we cultivate it. It is a perennial, and blossoms
in June.
The otto of melissa or balm enters into the composition
of the celebrated Carmelite Spirit It is said that during the
cloister life of Charles V. in the monastery of St. Yuste, that
he daily used it at the bath and upon his handkerchiefs, to
refresh that once vigorous intellect in its decline. The follow-
ing is the formula for
Eau des Cannes.
Take fresh balm leaves two pounds ; of fresh lemon peel a quarter of
a pound ; of nutmeg, coriander seed, cloves, cinnamon, and angelica root,
each two ounces, all broken fine : place all these into a still with half a
gallon of orange-flower water and one gallon of alcohol 60 over proof ;
distil slowly until one gallon comes over, which is the Eau des Carmes.
Balsam. — Under this title' there are three substances
> The definition of Balsam now adopted in France is the following :— Every
resinous substance incapable of saponification, rough to the touch, insoluble in
94 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
used in perfumery ; these are : balsam of Peru, balsam of tolu,
and balsam of storax. The first-named is procured from the
Myroxyloii peruiferiun ; it exudes from the tree when
wounded, and is also obtained by boiling down the bark and
branches in water. The latter is the most common method
of procuring it. It has a strong odour, like benzoin and
vanilla mixed. (See Peru.)
Tolu. — Balsam of tolu flows from the Toluifera balsamum.
It resembles common resin (rosin) ; with the least warmth,
however, it runs to a liquid, like brown treacle. The smell
of it is particularly agreeable, and, being soluble in alcohol,
makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this respect
a permanence of odour to a perfume which the simple
solution of an oil would not possess. For this purpose
all these balsams are very useful, though not so much
used as they might be. The proportions are : — Balsam of
tolu, \ lb. ; spirit, to o. p., i gallon. (See Storax and TOLU.)
Ulex has found that balsam of tolu is frequently adulterated with
common resin. To detect this adulteration he pours sulphuric acid on
the balsam, and heats the mixture, when the balsam dissolves to a cherry-
red fluid, without evolving sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic
or cinnamic acid, if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the
balsam foams, blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is
adulterated with common resin. — Arch, der Pharmacie.
In commerce we distinguish the dry and the soft balsam
of tolu. When distilled with water they both yield a liquid
compound of three volatile bodies : i . Toluene, a liquid
essence which boils at 120°, formed of C^'H'^; 2. Benzoic
Acid; 3. Cinnameine, which boils at 340° ; it contains benzoic
and cinnamic acids.
The presence of colophany, turpentine, or other resins in
tolu is shown by the resinous odour given out on burning it.
water, soluble in alcohol, ether and the oils, and containing benzoic or cinnamic
acid, or both together.
BALSAM OF MECCA.
95
Peru. — We notice also the dry balsam of Peru, no longer
an article of commerce, the brown balsam of Peru, the balsam
of San-Salvador or black balsam of Peru, and the liquid balsam
of Peru of commerce. , All these are composed of a resin, a
liquid oil {cinnameine) and cinnamic acid. The liquid balsam
of Peru is adulterated with castor oil. The adulteration is
discovered by the resinous odour disengaged when the balsam
is placed over burning charcoal. Ulex recommends that
the balsam should be heated in an oil-bath at 190°, until the
balsam gives out a few drops of a very acid oleaginous
liquid, which causes a deposit of crystals of cinnamic acid.
In case the balsam is pure, the liquid solidifies entirely ; if it
be not pure, the crystals will float in essence of copaiva.
Alcohol is detected by agitation with water which dissolves
the alcohol ; and the presence of thick oils by alcohol which
will dissolve the balsam, but not the oils.
Storax. — Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax,
is obtained in the same manner, and possessing similar pro-
perties, with a slight variation of odour, is applicable in the
same manner as the above.
They are all imported from South America, Chili, and
Mexico, where the trees that produce them are indigenous.
Mecca. — The genuine balsam of Mecca (Gtmi of Amyris
opobalsamuiri) is both scarce and expensive. The kings of
Judah cultivated this shrub, but only to a very small extent.
It will be interesting to learn, that a bottle of this extra-
ordinary balsam is kept at the botanical garden at Paris, as
an object of the rarest and highest value. What is generally
sold by the name of balsam of Mecca is merely the oil,
obtained by boiling, from the seeds, stones, and the branches
of the tree. It is too rare to be purchased at any price, as
it is generally supposed to be. Josephus informs us that the
Queen of Sheba brought it first to Judea, where balsam,
myrrh, and incense, in the days of old, were to be seen used
96 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
by "the populace in abundance, almost daily. This is one
of the many things which we ' mourn for ' in the ' days gone
by.' The reason of its excessive scarcity is supposed to be
owing to the destruction of Jerusalem : the Jews, actuated
by despair and hatred, destroyed all the balsam plants.
There are none now to be found in Palestine. Only one
plantation is now known to furnish it, and that is in Arabia
Petrea. The whole plantation only yields about three
pounds annually, and it is monopolised by the Grand
Seigneur. This, of course, we can scarcely refrain from
noticing withoiit an expression of regret.
Bay. — Oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of
laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by
distillation from the berries of the bay laurel {Laurus nobilis).
Though very pleasant, it is not much used.
Another essence of bay familiar in commerce is extracted
from various ocotea of the family of the Lauraceae. It is fluid,
colourless, and has a pleasant smell. Its density is of 0.864
at 13°. Its formula is C^°H"'- It forms with water a hydrate
= C2°H"=6HO (Stenhouse).
Basil. — Under the name of HoLY BASIL I have made a
perfume which appears, by its extensive sale, to ■ give much
satisfaction. As many of the scents which I have concocted
have proved great successes, I can here afford to say that others
have been dead failures ! Dr. George Birdwood writes : —
The most sacred plant in the whole indigenous materia medica of
India is the Tulsi or Holy Basil (Ocymum sanctum), sacred to Krishna,
and called after the nymph Tulasi, beloved of Krishna, and turned by
him into this graceful and most fragrant plant. She is indeed the Hindu
Daphne. The plant is also sacred to Vishnu, whose followers wear neck-
laces and carry rosaries (used for counting the number of recitations of
their deity's name), made of its stalks and roots. For its double sanctity'
it is reared in every Hindu house, where it is daily watered and wor-
shipped by all the members of the household. No doubt also it was on,
account of its virtues in disinfecting and vivifying malarious air that il^
BENZOIN.
97
first became inseparable from Hindu houses in India as the protecting
spirit or Lar of the family. In the Deccan villages, the fair Brahminee
mother may be seen early every morning, after having first ground the
corn for the day's bread, and performed her simple toilet, walking with
glad steps and waving hands round and round the pot of Holy Basil,
planted on the four-horned altar built up before each house, invoking the
blessings of heaven on her husband and his children — praying, that is, for
less carbonic acid and ever more and more oxygen. The scene always
carries one back in mind to the hfe of ancient Greece, which so often is
found still to live in India.
The following is the composition of the perfume :—
Holy Basil.
Extract of Tonquin Bean ^
„ Vanilla
Essence of Geranium
„ Montserrat Lime
„ Tolu ,
„ Orange Flower
„ Cassie
„ Jasmine
,, Tuberose .
Pints.
2
2
2
Bknzoin, also called Benjamin. — This is a very useful
substance to perfumers. It exudes from the Styrax Benzoin
by wounding the tree, and, drying, becomes a hard gum
resin. It is principally imported from Borneo, Java, Sumatra,
and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter place, and
used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being inter-
spersed with several white spots, which resemble broken
almonds. When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke,
which is easily condensed upon paper. The material thus
separated from the benzoin is called flowers of benzoin in
commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic acid. It has
nearly all the odour of the resin from which it is derived ;
but which is due to a minute portion of a peculiar otto that
rises in vapour with the acid. This otto of benzoin has not
H
98
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
yet been isolated. When benzoic acid is prepared by the
humid process, as is done in the chemical laboratory, it has
no odour. It may be, however, that the benzoic acid under-
goes decomposition when prepared from the gum resin by
sublimation, and thus produces the fragrant body which is
wanting in that made in the wet way. This is probable, for
gum benzoin has but little odour or less than that the acid
sublimated from it.
Mr. W. Bastick recommends the following process for
making flowers of benzoin : — Coarsely powdered gum benzoin
STYRAX BENZOIN.
is to be strewed on the flat bottom of a round iron pot
which has a diameter of nine inches, and a height of about
two inches. On the surface of the pot is spread a piece of
filtering paper, which is fastened to its rim by starch paste.
A cylinder of very thick paper is attached by means of a
string to the top of the iron pot. Heat is then applied by
placing the pot on a plate covered with sand, over the mouth
of a furnace. It must remain exposed to a gentle fire from
four to six hours. About an ounce and a half of benzoic
acid is obtained from twelve ounces of gum benzoin by the
first sublimation. As the gum is not exhausted by the first
operation, it may be bruised when cold and again submitted
BENZOIN. 99
to the action of heat, when a fresh portion of benzoic acid
will sublime from it. This acid thus obtained is not perfectly-
pure and white ; and Dr. Mohr states that it is a question, in
a medicinal and perfumery point of view, whether it is so
valuable when perfectly pure as when it contains a small
portion of a fragrant volatile oil, which rises with it from the
gum in the process of sublimation.
The London Pharmacopoeia directs that it shall be pre-
pared by sublimation, and does not prescribe that it shall be
free from this oil, to which it principally owes its agreeable
odour.
By the second sublimation the whole of the benzoic acid
is not volatilised. What remains in the resin may be sepa-
rated by boiling it with caustic lime, and precipitating the
acid from the resulting benzoate of lime with hydrochloric
acid. Benzoic acid can be obtained also in the wet way, and
the resin yields a greater product in this process than in the
former ; yet it has a less perfumery value, because it is free
from the volatile oil which, as above stated, gives it its
peculiar odour. The wet method devised by Scheele is as
follows : — Make one ounce of freshly-burnt lime into a milk
with from four to six ounces of hot water. To the milk of
lime, four ounces of powdered benzoin and thirty ounces of
water are to be added, and the mixture boiled for half an
hour, and stirred during this operation, and afterwards
strained through Hnen. The residue must be a second time
boiled with twenty ounces of water and strained, and a third
time with ten ounces : the fluid products must be mixed and
evaporated to one-fourth of their volume, and sufficient
hydrochloric acid added to render them slightly acid.
When quite cold, the crystals are to be separated from the
fluid by means of a strainer, upon v/hich they are to be
washed with cold water, and pressed, and then dissolved in
hot distilled water, from which the crystals separate on
loo THE ART. OF PERFUMERY.
cooling. When hydrochloric acid is added to a cold concen-
trated solution of the salts of benzoic acid, it is precipitated as
a white powder. If the solution of the salts of this acid is too
dilute and warm, none or only a portion of the benzoic acid
will be separated. However, the weaker the solution is, and
the more slowly it is cooled, the larger will be the crystals of
this acid. In the preparation of this acid in the wet way,
lime is to be preferred to every other base, because it forms
insoluble combinations with the resinous constituents of the
benzoin, and because it prevents the gum resin from con-
glomerating into an adhesive mass, and also because an
excess of this base is but slightly soluble.
The best benzoin is obtained in Siam by incisions made in the trunk
of the tree, after it has attained the age of five or six years. The resin is
white and transparent at first. About three pounds are given by each
tree for about six years. It forms an article of export from Siam. From
Singapore, the exports in 1852 were to the extent of 1,282 piculs, and 168
piculs in 1853. Java imported last year benjamin of the value of 176,182
florins. The different varieties bear a price proportioned to their good-
ness ; the finest quality used to range from 10/. to 20/. per picul of 133
lbs. Benzoin is the frankincense of the far East, and has long been used
for incense in the Roman Catholic, the Hindu, Mahometan, and Bud-
dhistic temples, and probably in the Israelitish worship. Wealthy Chinese
fumigate their houses with its grateful odour. — f. L. Simonds, Esq.
I(read before the Society of Arts).
The extract, or tincture, of benzoin forms a good basis
for a bouquet. Like balsam of tolu, it gives permanence
and body to a perfume made with an essential oil in spirit.
The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manu-
facture of pastilles (see PASTILLES), and for the preparation
of fictitious vanilla pomade. (See POMATUMS.)
BergAMOT. — This most useful perfume is procured from
the Citrus Bergmnia, by expression from the peel of the fruit.
One hundred fruit will yield about three ounces of the
otto. It has a soft sweet odour, too well known to need
description here. When new and good, it has a greenish
BERG A MOT.
yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age, especially if kept
in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy from
the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the
air, and acquires a turpentine smell.
This perfume is so much in demand that its annual produc-
tion in Italy has never satisfied the market. The Messina
BERGAMOT.
dealers and their allies carefully adulterate the true Bergamot
otto with lemon otto, thus spoiling an article worth from 30j.
to 40J. per pound, in order to sell it at ioj. The name of
this variety of Citron wort is derived from the city of Bergamo
in Lombardy, from whence, so far as we can ascertain, the
■otto was first sold. The otto of bergamot of the finest
quality is obtained by means of the Ecuelle ; but about four
fifths of it in the market is a distilled product, or one ex-
pressed from the rasped rind of the fruit. About 40,000 pounds
of otto are annually imported into England.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a
cool cellar, and in the dark ; light, especially the direct sun-
shine, quickly deteriorates its odour. This observation may
be applied, indeed, to all perfumes, except rose, which is not
so spoiled, and clove, which improves by keeping.
When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils, it
greatly adds to their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice
oils attainable by no other means, and such compounds are
much used in the most highly-scented soaps. Mixed with
rectified spirit in the proportions of about eight ounces of
bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called 'extract of
bergamot,' and in this state is used for the handkerchief
Though well covered with extract of orris and other matters,
it is the leading ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess.
Bouquets. (See BOUQUETS.)
Borage.
SileiiHs. Papaiapaex ! what a sweet smell it has !
Ulysses. You see it, then ?
Silenus. By Jove, no ! but I smell it.
Ejtripides, Shelley's transl.
It is very probable that the delightful fragrance exhaled by
the fresh cool green leaves, and the deep cerulean blue of the
flowers themselves, first drew our forefathers' attention to the
plant. The mere delightful fresh perfume of the leaves has
something reviving and exhilarating about it. The plants
of this family perhaps owe some part of their popularity to
their provincial n^im^ forget-me-not ; hence any perfume of this
title should contain otto of borage.
Briar (Sweet-).— (See Eglantine.)
Camphor. — This beautiful and fragrant substance is pro-
duced by several plants, particularly Dryobalanops Camphora,
the Camphor tree of Sumatra and Japan. The kind, how-
ever, mostly found in commerce is derived from the Laurus
Camphora, or camphor laurel of the island of Formosa,
Missing Page
CARA IV A Y.—CASCARILLA. 105
although resembling each other in look and smell, are not
of the same composition. The former is represented by
C2»H'^0^ the latter by C^'H'^Ol With respect to the so-
called artificial camphors which are obtained by the action of
chlorine or hydrochloric acid upon certain liquid carbonated
hydrogens, such as the essences of lemon or turpentine, are
not at all analogous in properties or in composition with the
true camphors, but merely resemble them somewhat in
appearance. The true camphor has been found in other
plants of the families of the lanracecz, the amom^es, synantherce,
and certain labiatcB of warm countries ; but no supply for
commerce is to be obtained from any of these.
Caraway. — This odoriferous principle is drawn by
distillation from the seeds of the Carum Carui. It has a very
pleasant smell, quite familiar enough without description.
It is well adapted to perfume soap, for which it is much used
in England, though rarely if ever on the Continent ; when
dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with oil of
lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences,
in a similar way to cloves. (See CLOVES.) If caraway seeds
are ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet
powder. (See Sachets.)
The seeds of other umbelliferce, such as those of cumin,
fennel, dill, yield on distillation essences similar to that of
caraway. This consists of two essences, carvene= C'H^ and
carvol=C'^'^W*0'^. The essences of other seeds of the same
family are of analogous composition.
Cascarilla.— ^The bark is used in the formation of
Frangipanni incense, and also enters into the composition
known as Eau a Br^ler, for perfuming apartments, to which
we refer.
The bark alone of this plant is used by the manu-
facturing perfumer. The Cascarilta gratissima is, however, so
fragrant that, according to Burnett, its leaves are gathered by
io6 THE ATiT OF PERFUMERY.
the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume. It
behoves perfumers, therefore, who are on the look-out for
novelties, to obtain these leaves and ascertain the result of
their distillation.
Messrs. Herring & Co., some years ago, drew the oil of
cascarilla, but it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity.
The cascarilla (meaning, ' little bark,' in Spanish) of
commerce is derived, according to Sir W. Hooker, from
the Croton fragrans, a native plant of South America.
Cassia. — The essential oil of cassia is procured by dis-
tilling the outer bark of the Laiirus Cassia. One cwt. of
bark yields rather more than three quarters of a pound of
oil ; it has a pale yellow colour ; in smell it much resembles
cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is principally used
for perfuming soap, especially what is called ' military soap,'
as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odour ; it
therefore finds no place for handkerchief use.
The Laurus Cassia, of the family of the Lauracece, yields
the cinnamon of China, or common cinnamon. The essence
extracted from it bears the name of essence of cassia. It is of
a reddish yellow colour, and has not a pleasant smell.
The cinnamon of Ceylon, Laurus Ciiinamomum, or C. zey-
landicum, yields an essence less abundant than the preceding,
but more highly valued. It is of a bright yellow colour, has
a pleasant smell, and a sweetish aromatic taste. It is sold
at from 15 to 20 fr. per 30 grammes, while the first-named is
worth only 40 fr. per 1,000 grammes.
Cassie {Acacia farnesiatia).
The short narcissus and fair daffodil,
Pansies to please the sight, and cassie sweet to smell.
Dryden'S Virgil.
The young cassie plants are raised from seed, which is
sown in beds. The best plants are left, the doubtful ones
CASSIE.
107
removed. In the third year they have generally a height of
two or three feet, and are then planted out in fields, each
tree requiring about twelve feet square. Before planting the
cassie, the ground should be well dressed with manure, and
dug to the depth of four or six feet, and in such situations as
are well exposed to the sun. This plant thrives better at
Cannes than in any other part of Europe. The blossoms of
ACACIA FARNESIANA (FLOWER HEADS, NATURAL SIZE).
the cassie are successive, some being ready for plucking,
while the others are scarcely formed. This is immensely
useful to the farmer, one lot of blossoms being gathered and
passed through the laboratory before it is time to gather the
others. After the third year the tree produces flowers,
growing at the same time till they attain maturity, when they
reach a height of ten or twelve feet, with branches six feet
io8 THE ART. OF PERFUMERY.
long, and a stem as thick as a man's wrist. Each full-
grown tree will produce about two pounds' weight of flowers,
value from three to fourpence per pound, say 30/. to 40/. per
acre.
The illustration of cassie here given more impressively
shows what we mean by ' successive ' flowering. Flowers,
however fragrant, are not of much practical use in the per-
fumer's laboratory unless they grow ' successive,' because if
the flowers' come all together there is not suflScient time for
the grease to be inflowered. It is found that better results
are obtained by repeating a small quantity of flowers over
grease, rather than inflowering a large quantity of blossoms
at one time.
This is one of those fine odours which enter into the
composition of the best handkerchief bouquets. When
smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odour, and is rather
sickly sweet.
It is procured by maceration of the flower heads. Purified
fat is melted in the bain-Marie, into which the flower heads
are thrown, and left to digest for several hours ; the spent
flowers are then removed, and fresh are added, eight or ten
times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As
many flowers are used as the fluid grease will cover, when
they are put into it. The value of cassie buds is from five
francs to eight francs the kilogramme, and it requires two
kilogrammes of flowers to perfume one kilogramme of grease.
After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a
heat sufficient only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will
subside by Standing for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the
cassie pomade of commerce. The Huile de Cassie, or fat-oil
of cassie, is prepared in a similar manner, substituting olive
oil or almond oil in place of suet. Both these preparations
are obviously only a solution of the true essential oil of cassie
flowers in the neutral fatty body. Europe may shortly be
CASSIE. " 109
expected to import a similar scented pomade from South
Australia, derived from the wattle, a plant that belongs to the
same genus as the A . farnesiana, and which grows most luxu-
riantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle
plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the
flowers, &c.
To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24
(best quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of
the best rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishops-
gate. After it has digested for three weeks or a month, at a
summer heat, it is fit to draw from the pomatum, and, if good,
has a beautiful olivaceous green colour and rich flowery smell
of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this process
give a more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than
by merely dissolving the essential oil (procured by distilla-
tion) in the spirit ; moreover, where the odour of the flower
exists in only very minute quantities, as in the present instance,
and with violet, jasmine, &c., it is the only practical mode of
proceeding.
In this and all other similar cases, the pomatum must be
cut up into very small pieces, after the domestic manner of
' chopping suet,' prior to its being infused in the alcohol. The
action of the mixture is simply a change of place in the odori-
ferous matter, which leaves the fat body by the superior
attraction, or affinity, as the chemists say, of the spirits of
wine, in which it freely dissolves.
The major part of the extract can be poured or drawn off
the pomatum without trouble ; but it still retains a portion in
the interstices, which requires time to drain away, and this
must be assisted by placing the pomatum in a large funnel,
supported by a bottle, in order to collect the remainder.
Finally, all the pomatum, which is now called washed pomatum,
is to be put into a tin or copper can, which can must be set
in hot water, for the purpose of melting its contents ; when
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the pomatum thus becomes liquefied, any extract that is still
in it rises to the surface, and may be skimmed off; or, when,
the pomatum becomes cold, it can be poured from it. Any
alcohol still remaining in it may be recovered by placing the
pomatum in a still and distilling it. There may be a sUght
loss of perfume, but the alcohol is recovered.
The washed pomatum is preserved for use in the manu-
facture of dressing for the hair, for which purpose it is exceed-
ingly well adapted, on account of the purity of the grease
from which it was originally prepared, but more particularly
on account of a certain portion of odour which it still retains ;
and were it not used up in this way, it would be advisable to
put it for a second infusion in spirit, and thus a weaker
extract could be made serviceable for lower priced articles.
The pomatum thus drained can still be used in the manufac-
ture of coloured soaps.
I cannot leave cassie without recommending it more espe-
cially to the notice of perfumers and druggists, as an article
well adapted for the purpose of the manufacture of essences
for the handkerchief and pomades for the hair. When diluted
with other odours, it imparts to the whole such a true flowery
fragrance, that it is the admiration of all who smell it, and
has not a little contributed to the great sale which certain
proprietary articles have attained.
We caution the inexperienced not to confound cassie with
cassia, which has a totally different odour. (See ACACIA
Pomade.)
Cedar. — This wood has been famous since the days of
Solomon, who employed it in the construction of the Temple.
The wood now and then finds a place in a perfumer's ware-
house ; when ground, it does well to form a body of sachet
powder. Slips of cedar wood are sold as matches for lighting
lamps, because, while burning, an agreeable odour is evolved ;
some people use it also, in this condition, distributed among
CEDAR. Ill
clothes in drawers to 'prevent moth.' On distillation it
yields an essential oil that is exceedingly fragrant, and which
is used extensively for scenting what is called cold cream
soap.
Lebanon Cedar Wood.
For the Handkerchief.
Otto of cedar i oz.
Rectified spirit 4 pints
Esprit rose trip \ pint
Since the publication of the first edition of this work, otto
of cedar wood, which was very scarce, has been sent exten-
sively into the market. Messrs. Piesse & Lubin have pro-
duced an average of 28 ounces from 112 lbs. of shavings,
being the refuse of the pencil-makers. The pencil cedar is
the ' Virginian ' or American cedar, Junipenis virginiana.
The true Lebanon cedar, Cedrus Libani, and from which the
handkerchief perfume is named, yields a very indifferent otto
and odour to the American plant. The ' Cedars of Lebanon '
are so familiar, however, that perfumers could not afford to
change the title of the scent they make, for the red wood of
the West, though the latter is superior to the former in
fragrance.
Cedria, an oil or resin extracted from a cedar was, accord-
ing to Vitruvius (a celebrated architect in the age of Augustus),
used to smear over the leaves of the papyrus to prevent the
attack of insects ; and Pliny states that the Egyptians applied
it with other drugs in the preparation of their mummies.
The tincture of cedar smells agreeably of the wood, from
which it can- readily be made by steeping the cedar wood in
proof spirit. Its crimson colour, however, prohibits it from
being used for the handkerchief. It forms an excellent
tincture for the teeth, and is the basis of the celebrated French
dentifrice ' eaii Botot.'
1 1 2 THE ART OF PERFUMER Y.
Cedrat. — This perfume is procured from the rind of the
citron fruit (Citrus medicd), both by distillation and expres-
sion ; it has a very beautiful lemony odour, and is much
admired. It is principally used in the manufacture of essences
for the handkerchief, being too expensive for perfuming
grease or soap. What is called extract of cedrat is made by
dissolving two ounces of the above essential oil of citron in
oije pint Qf spirits, to which some perfumers add half an ounce
ofbergamot. . . - .
Cinnamon. — Several species of the plant Laurus Cinna-
momum yield the cinnamon and cassia of commerce. Its
name is said to be derived from China Amomuni, the bark
being one of the most valued spices of the East. Perfumers
use both the bark and the oil, which is obtained by distillation
from it. The ground- bark enters into the composition of
some pastilles, tooth powders, and sachets. The essential oil
of cinnamon is principally brought to this country from
Ceylon ; it is exceedingly powerful, and must be used
sparingly. In such compounds where cloves answer, so will
cinnamon.
Cinnamon is gathered when the tree is at least five years old. It is
worked for thirty years, and yields two harvests annually. The branches
are cut, the epidermis detached with a knife,. a longitudinal fissure made
in the bark, and the bark separated from the wood. Small rolls of the
cinnamon are inserted within the larger ones, and they are dried in the
sun. The aromatic and pleasant odour of cinnamon is well known, as is
also its sweet piquant taste. The smell and flavour of Chinese cinnamon
is not so agreeable. — {Guibourt and Moguin-Tandon.)
The Cassia lignea, which is the. bark of the Laurus Malaba-
thrum, is often employed as an aromatic and a spice. So are
the leaves and flowers not full blown of various cinnamon trees.
The seeds yield a greasy matter which is used in the prepara-
tion of scented tapers, burnt by the wealthy in the places
where they are produced.
CINNAMON. 113
Mr. James Paton says : —
'The earliest glimpse we have of the spice trade gives us a most
characteristic and vivid impress of the traffic of the early world. As the
sons of Jacob had just completed the execution of their plot against their
envied brother Joseph, on the horizon appeared "a company of
Ishmaelites from Gilead, bearing spicery, balm, and myrrh, going to
carry it down to Egypt." Thus 1,700 years before the Christian era we
find the Arabs possessed of the spice trade, which their country, as a
principal entrepot, continued to hold down to the sixteenth century, when
the whole system was overthrown by the discovery of the Cape passage.
At this period Egypt was the capital of civilisation, learning, and luxury ;
and myrrh, cassia, and other odoriferous substances, we are informed
by Herodotus, were used for embalming the dead and in religious cere-
monies.'
The southern portion of Arabia, called Sabasa or Sheba, was pecu-
liarly well situated for commanding the great trade in spices (hence the
name Arabia Felix or Araby the Blest), lying in the direct route from the
east to the west, commanding the great caravan route by the valley of
the Euphrates to the shores of the Mediterranean, and just opposite the
Regio Cinnamomifera, or Aromata, the north-east promontory of Africa,
from which, and not from India, the main supply of the spices then used
was drawn. The Sabeans had the necessary skill and enterprise for
conducting this trade, and cunning did not fail them. They overclouded
the mysteries of the prized commodities with fables, such as that cinnamon
was gathered from the nests of the phoenix, which bird procured it in
some miraculous way ; that it was found in the land of the birth of
Bacchus, in marshes guarded by winged serpents ; that terrible bats flew
at the eyes of those engaged in gathering cassia, and other such tales,
all of which we presume served to keep up both the interest in and
price of these spices, and to deter the much believing inhabitants of the
early world from prosecuting such dangerous enterprises on their own
account.
The wealth and glory of Arabia Felix, acquired through this spice
trade, was the wonder of ancient times, and the writers revel in descrip-
tions of the grandeur of its cities, and the magnificence of its merchants'
houses. Milton alludes in one of his magnificent images to these per-
fumes —
' North-west winds blow
Sabean odours from the spicy shores
Of Araby the Blest.'
I
114 the art of perfumery.
Citron.
Sharp-tasted citron, Median climes produce ;
Large is the plant, and like a laurel grows ;
And, did it not a different scent disclose,
A laurel were. Virgil, Georgics II. i8o.
On distilling the flowers of the Citrus medica, a very
flagrant oil is procured, which is a species of neroli, and is
principally consumed by the manufacturers of Hungary water.
(See Lime.)
Citron ELLA. — Under this name there is an oil in the
market, chiefly from Ceylon. It is procured by distilling the
leaves of the Andropogon Nardus, which grows wild, and is
very abundant in Ceylon. In the neighbourhoods of Galle
and of Colombo, in that island, large tracts of land are under
cultivation of this plant, for the express purpose of procuring
the odoriferous principle.
The average export of citronella from the port of Colombo
is about 40,000 lbs. annually.
Citronella being cheap (the export price at Colombo is
4^-. id. per pound !), it is extensively used for perfuming soap;
what is now so generally sold as 'honey' soap is fine yellow
soap slightly perfumed with this oil. Some few use it for
scenting grease, but it is not much admired in that way.
This essence must not be confounded with those produced
by other plants very different, although bearing the same
name. There are, indeed, numerous plants, the odour of
which more or less resembles that of citron. Among these
may be mentioned the male southernwood {artemisia abrola-
num, synanihercB) ; the melissa {melissa officinalis, labiates);
the sweet verbena (verbena tryphylld) ; the lipia citriodora,
and aloysia citriodora. (See VERBENA.)
It is stated by Wallich, according to Fleming, that the citron-
smelling andropogon of Martinique is known in India as lemon
grass, or as dogs'-grass citron. In Martinique a plant supposed
CLOVES.
IIS
to be poisonous is confounded, under the name of citronella
or andropogon, with the schcenanthus. It does, in fact, much
resemble the schcenanthus, but is
larger, and diffuses a very pleasant
smell of rose-geranium charac-
ter. Growing specimens of these
as well as numerous other plants,
mentioned in this work, may be
found in the Economic House at
Kew.
Citronella grass {Andropogon
Nardus) is cultivated both by Mr.
Fisher and by Mr. Winter, its otto
being obtained by means of dis-
tillation. The importance of the
trade in this one article in Ceylon
alone may be estimated at 8,000/.
annually. At Gaylang, Singapore,
there are about 1,000 acres under
citronella, lemon grass, and patch-
ouly. Geranium grass otto is
obtained from the Andropogon
Schcenanthus. This grass, some-
times called ginger grass, is a wild
plant of Central and Northern
India ; its otto is produced by dis-
tillation, but it has not much repu-
tation out of India.
Cloves. — Every part of the
clove plant (Caryophyllus aroma-
ticus) abounds with aromatic oil ;
but it is most fragrant and plentiful in the unexpanded
flower-buds, which are the cloves of commerce. Cloves have
been brought into the European market for more than
CITRONELLA GRASS.
ii6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
2,000 years. The plant is a native of the Moluccas and other
islands in the Chinese seas. .' The average annual crop, of
cloves,' says Burnett, ' is from each tree 2 or 2\ lbs. ; but a
fine tree has been known to yield 125 lbs. of this spice in a
single season, and as 5,000 cloves only weigh one pound,
there must have been at least 625,000 flowers upon this single
tree.'
The otto of cloves may be obtained by expression from
the fresh flower-buds ; but the usual method of procuring it is
by distillation, which is carrieid on
to a very great extent in this coun-
try. Few essential oils have a more
extensive use in perfumery than that
of cloves ; it combines well with
grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will
be seen in the recipes for the various
bouquets given hereafter, it forms a
leading feature in some of the most
CLOVE. popular handkerchief essences —
Rondeletia, the Guards' Bouquet, &c. — and will be found where
least expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of qloves
in the proportion of four ounces of oil to one gallon of
spirit.
The distilled water of the clove deposits pearly crystals of
a substance named eugenine, the composition of which is the
same as that of eugenic acid.
Cucumber. — Considerable difference of opinion exists
among the public as to the odour of cucumber. Some greatly
admire it, and think it has many virtues; others there are who
think well of it on the side-board, but would expunge it from
the toilet-table. Our business is not, however, to give opinion,
but to state the mode of procuring the odour of the plant
We have been unable to procure any otto of cucumber, and
the ' water ' distilled from it has but a very faint resemblance
DILL.
117
to the fruit : if, however, spirits of wine be repeatedly dis-
tilled over freshly-cut cucumbers, we finally obtain, at about
the third distillation, a spirit or essence having all the true
odour we are in search of Its principal use is in making
cucumber cold cream, &c., which see.
Dill. — Perfumers are now and then asked for 'dill-water;'
it is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as
it is more used for its medicinal qualities than for its odour,
which, by the way, is rather pleasant than otherwise. Some
ladies use a mixture of half dill-water and half rose-water, as
a simple cosmetic, ' to clear the complexion.'
The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit
of dill (Anethum graveolens) with water to distillation. The
oil floats on the surface of the distillate, from which it is
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
separated by the recipient in the usual manner ; after the sepa-
ration of the oil, the ' water ' is fit for sale. Oil of dill may-
be used with advantage, if in small proportions, and mixed
with other oils, for perfuming soap.
Eglantine, or Sweet-Briar, notwithstanding what the
poet Robert Noyes says,
In fragrance yields,
Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields,
does not find a place in the perfumer's ' scent-room,' except
in name. This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does
not repay the labour of collecting its odour. The fragrant
part of this plant is destroyed more or less under every
treatment that it is put to, and hence it is discarded. As,
however, the article is in demand by the public, a species of
fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus : —
Imitation Eglantine, or Essence of Sweet-Briar.
Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum . . i pint
„ „ fleur d'orange .
Esprit de rose ....
Otto of neroli . \ drachm
„ lemon grass (verbena oil)
Elder {Sambucus nigra). — The only preparation of this
plant, for its odorous quality, used by the perfumer, is elder-
flower water. To prepare it, take nine pounds of elder
flowers, free from stalk , and introduce it to the still with four
gallons of water ; the first three gallons that come over is all
that need be preserved for use ; one ounce of rectified spirit
should be added to each gallon of ' water ' distilled, and when
bottled it is ready for use.
Krembs recommends the following process for making
a concentrated elder-flower water, from which he states the
ELDER.
i'9
ordinary water can be extemporaneously prepared, of ex-
cellent quality, and of uniform strength : —
12 lbs. of the flowers are to be distilled with water until that which
passes into the receiver has lost nearly all perfume. This will generally
happen when from 15 lbs. to 18 lbs. have passed over. To the distillate,
12 lbs. of alcohol are to be added, and the mixture distilled until about ;
lbs. are collected. This liquor contains all the odour of the flowers. To
make the ordinary water, 2 ounces of the concentrated water are to be
added to 10 ounces of distilled water. — Buchner's Report.
Other preparations of elder flowers are made, such as
milk of elder, extract of elder, &c., which will be found in
their proper place under Cosmetics. Two or three new
materials made from this flower will also be given hereafter,
which are likely to meet with a very large sale on account of
the reputed cooling qualities of the ingredients : of these we
would call attention more particularly to cold cream of elder
flowers, and to elder oil for the hair.
The preparations of the elder flowers, if made according
to the Pharmacopoeias, are perfectly useless, as the forms
therein given show an utter want of knowledg^e of the pro-
perties of the materials employed.
In Nichols's ' Progress of Queen Elizabeth ' he mentions
that at Hawkstead, among the rooms on the ground-floor,
was one called the still-room, an apartment where ladies of
the Court much amused themselves in distilling fragrant
waters. In the Northumberland 'Household Book,' a work
so often quoted by historical writers, there appears the fol-
lowing list of plants, viz. ' Roses, Borage, Fumitory, Purcelly,
Balme, Walnut leaves. Sage, Elder floweis, &c., for the use of
the still-room.' The still-room maid to this day preserves
her name, though not all her old avocation. The cymes of
the elder, after being plucked and placed in a heap, very
quickly heat ; the corollas then fall off and are separated, by
sifting, from the stalks. During the season many tons of
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
these are sold by Covent Garden herbalists. Of corollas
9 lbs. are distilled with 4 gallons of water ; the first 3
gallons that come over only are preserved for used under the
title of Elder-flower water.
Eucalyptus. — This tree-shrub belonging to the genera
of Myrtace^ is indigenous to Australia ; one of its near
allies, the Meleuca, yields by distillation of its leaves the
Cuiam ponti, or, as is known with us, Cajeput oil, of no
sweet savour, but yet valuable in pharmacy. Mr. Bosisto, of
Richmond in Victoria, made a very valuable ' exhibit ' of
products from the Eucalyptus at the Paris Exhibition, 1867.
In his circular, after speaking of the value of the oils from
Eucalyptus in a medicinal point of view in lieu of Cajeput,
and also of its solvent powers over copal, &c., goes on to
observe that —
Both in England and Australia these oils have been found useful in
the manufacture of perfumery, especially in aromatising soaps. They
make good basic odours ; and it is important to remark that their aroma
can be materially altered, on account of ihe readiness with which they
yield up their own identity on the addition of essential oils in consonance
with them —
a dictum with which we cannot agree so long as perfumery
remains a science of sweet odours! Eucalyptus has an
odour between good turpentine and cajeput, neither of
which are ' sweet to smell : ' it would therefore be worse than
flattery to induce, even by kind expression towards his
labours, him or others to believe that the oil of Eucalyptus
will ever be used in perfumery, except in name ; or, when so
employed, but as a sanitary agent.
Fennel {Fmiimlum vulgare). — Dried fennel herb, when
ground, enters into the composition of some sachet powders.
The oil of fennel, in conjunction with other aromatic oils,
may be used for perfuming soap. It is procurable by distil-"
lation.
FLAG {SWEET)— FRANGIPANNI.
Flag (Sweet) {Acorus calamus). — The roots, or rhizome,
of the sweet flag, yield by distillation a pleasant-smelling
otto ; I cwt. of the rhizome will thus yield one pound of oil.
It can be used according to the pleasure of the manufacturer
in scenting grease, soap, or for extraits, but requires other
sweet oils with it to hide its origin.
The true sweet flag is a very odorous root, yellowish out-
side, whitish within, showing black specks on its lower part,
the traces of radicles, and transverse lines on the upper part,
whence the leaves shoot. It must not be confounded with
the bulbs of gladiolus, which are inodorous and belong to the
iridaceae.
The true acorus is often sold as the Calamus aromaticus
of the ancients, which was very different and probably be-
longed to the family of the Gentianacese.
FRANGIPANNI {Plumeria Albd). —This plant, which is said
to yield the ' eternal perfume,' so popular at the present day,
is a native of the West India Islands. In Antigua and at
St. Domingo it grows in great abundance. Having, through
my friend H. Bridger, Esq., of the former place, obtained a
few of the plants, I forwarded them to the Royal Gardens,
Kew. The following remarks thereon by Sir W. Hooker are
worthy of record : —
Royal Gardens, Kew, August 14.
My dear Sir,
I thank you much for the Frangipanni plants. One, and one only,
shows life ; but I have every reason to think it will recover, and then, and
not till then, we shall see exactly what species of Plumeria it is.
I do not find in your work that the odour of the flowers is preserved
and used in this country. A French author (Descoursilz, in his ' Flore
des Antilles ') says, ' Les parfumeurs recherchent cette odeur fugace, qu'ils
savent fixer dans leurs pommades et leurs huiles cosmdtiques.' This is
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
said of Plumeria alba ; but all the species, and there are several, have the
same agreeable odour vifheii living. Our Floras of the West Indies do
not speak of such a use being made of the flowers. You have the power
of imitating it from other vegetables.
On looking further into this subject, I find it stated by Sir James
Smith that the French name of all the species is Frangipanni, and that
they are so called from the resemblance of their fragrance, to a well-
known perfume of France, ' Frangipanni ; ' its inventor, an Italian, was
of the Frangipanni family , so conspicuous in the Roman disturbances.
I suspect, then, that no perfume is derived from these flowers : the
real Fran^panni being derived from other flowers, as described in your
work, 2iid edition.
Very truly yours,
W. J. Hooker.
P.S. The juice of all the Plumerias is milky and very poisonous. One
species was in flower with us last week.
To S. PlESSE, Ph.D., F.C.S.
Frankincense, or Olibanum (see Olibanum.) Al-
though there has been much research, the trees which produce
this resinous gum are but imperfectly known. The best
discourse upon this subject is to be found in the 'Trans-
actions of the Linnaean Society,' vol. xxvii., p. iii, by Dr.
Birdwood. It is stated that the gum is obtainable from several
species of Boswellia, growing in the hot and arid regions of
Eastern Africa and of the Southern coast of Arabia, the
Soumali country, and near Aden.
As exemplifying the great esteem in which frankincense was held by
the ancients, the memorable gifts presented by the Magi to the infant
Saviour will occur to every mind. Herodotus relates that the Arabians
paid to Darius, king of Persia, an annual tribute of i,ooo talents of
frankincense. Constantine made offerings to the church of Rome costly
vessels containing A romaia in incensum, which is understood as olibanum."
Geranium (Pelargonium Capitaiwn, rose-leaf geranium).
— The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very
agreeable rose-smelling otto, so much resembling real otto of
' - Pharmncograp/, ia.
GERANIUM. 123
rose that it is used very extensively for the adulteration of
that valuable scent, and is grown very largely for that
express purpose. It is principally cultivated in the south of
France, and in Turkey (by the rose-growers). In the depart-
ment of Seine-et-Oise, at Monfort-Lamaury, in France,
hundreds of acres of it may be seen growing. The geranium
is propagated by cuttings made in September, which are
planted out in the spring. If the land has been well manured,
and if the season be very dry, the plants are well irrigated.
They grow to a height of three to four feet, yielding an
abundance of foliage, which is easily garnered by the sickle.
One hundred-weight of leaves will yield about two ounces of
essential oil. Used to adulterate otto of rose, it is in its turn
itself adulterated with ginger-grass otto (Attdropogon), and
thus formerly was very diificult to procure genuine ; on
account of the increased cultivation of the plant, it is now,
however, easily procured pure. Some samples are greenish-
coloured, others nearly white, but we prefer those of a
brownish tint.
When dissolved in rectified spirit, in the proportion of
about eight ounces to the gallon, it forms the Extract of Rose-
leaf Geranium of the shops.— A word or two is necessary
about the oil of geranium, as much confusion is created respect-
ing it, in consequence of there being an otto under the name
of geranium, but which in reality is derived from one of the
Andropogons, cultivated in the Moluccas. This said andro-
pogon (geranium !) oil can be used to adulterate the true
geranium, and hence we suppose its nomenclature in the
drug markets. The genuine rose-leaf geranium otto fetches
about 3J. per ounce, while the andropogon oil is not worth
more than that sum per pound. And we may observe here
that the perfuming essential oils are best purchased through
the wholesale perfumers, as from the nature of their trade
they have a better knowledge and means of obtaining the
124 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
real article than the drug broker. On account of the
pleasing odour of the true oil of rose-leaf geranium, it is a
valuable article for perfuming many materials, and appears to
give the public great satisfaction. Recently some fine
samples of otto of geranium have been brought to England,
being the produce of Spain, very nearly as good as the otto
imported from Grasse. It was sold at y. 6d. per ounce.
Several varieties of the Natural Order Geraniaceas bear
SCENT-YIELDING GERANIUM.
.scent-yielding leaves ; but although these plants were intro-
duced into Europe from the Cape of Good Hope so far back
as 1690, it was not until 1847 that the Pelargonium capitatiim
began to be systematically grown for the purpose of extract-
ing its scent-yielding principle, known in commerce as the
Otto of Rose-leaf Geranium. This was first done by M.
Demarson, of Paris ; and since that time its cultivation has
vastly increased in France, particularly at Montfort-Lamaury,
in the Department of Seine-et-Oise, and it has even more
HEDIOSMI A— HELIOTROPE. 125
rapidly spread in Algeria, Mr. Monk, an Englishman, and M.
Chiris pushing its production extensively. The same kind of
culture is also carried on in Spain, by Senor Robillard, of
Valentia. The propagation of the Pelargonium by means of
slips is too well known to need description. One ton weight
of leaves will yield by distillation an average of two pounds
weight of otto, the lowest wholesale price of which is, say, 61.
Senor Robillard has about fifty acres of Rose Geranium under
tillage, more or less, according to the demand. He strikes
the cuttings from September to October, and puts them out
in April ; the plants have to be replaced every three or four
years at longest, the land being well manured annually.
About 3,cx)0 plants are required per acre.
Hediosmia. — A scent supposed to be derived from the
Hedyosnium, an indigenous shrub of Jamaica.
Heliotrope. — Either by maceration or enfleurage with
clarified fat, we may obtain this fine odour from the flowers
of the Heliotropium peruvianum or H. grandiflorum. Ex-
quisite as the odour of this plant is, at present it is not applied
to use by the manufacturing perfumer. This we think rather
a singular fact, especially as the perfume is powerful and the
flowers abundant. We should like to hear of some experi-
ments being tried with this plant for producing its odour in
this country, and for that purpose now suggest the mode of
operation which would most likely lead to successful results.
For a small trial in the first instance, which can be managed
by any person having the run of a garden, we will say, procure
an ordinary glue-pot now in common use, which melts the
material by the boiling of water ; it is in fact a water bath, in
chemical parlance — one capable of holding a pound or more
of melted fat. At the season when the flowers are in bloom,
obtain a pound of fine lard ; melt the lard and strain it through
a close hair-sieve ; allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from the
sieve, to drop into cold spring water ; this operation granulates
126 THE ART. OF PERFUMERY.
and washes the blood and membrane from it. In order to
start with a perfectly inodorous grease, the melting and granu-
lation process may be repeated three or four times, using a
pinch of salt and a pinch of alum in each water ; it is then to
be washed five or six times in plain water ; finally, remelt
the fat ; and cast it into a pan to free it from adhering water.
Now put the clarified lard into the macerating pot, and
place it in such a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or
elsewhere, that will keep it warm enough to be liquid ; into
the fat throw as many flowers as you can, and there let them
remain for twenty-four hours ; at this time strain the fat from
the spent flowers and add fresh ones ; repeat this operation
for a week : we expect at the last straining the fat will have
become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly
•termed Pommade d la Hdiotrope.
The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding,
is now to be put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered
with spirits as highly rectified as can be obtained, and left to
digest for a week or more ; the spirit then strained off will be
highly perfumed ; in reality it will be extract of heliotrope, a
delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The rationale of
the operation is simple enough ; the fat body has a strong
affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of
the flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes
itself perfumed. In the second operation the spirit has a
much greater attraction for the fragrant principle than the
fatty matter ; the former, therefore, becomes perfumed at the
expense of the latter. The same experiment may be repeated
with almond oil .substituted for the fat, or the process of
enfleurage may be adopted.
The experiment here hinted at may be varied with any
flowers that there are to spare ; indeed, by having the mace-
rating bath larger than was mentioned above, an excellent
millefleur pomade and essence might be produced from every
HELIOTROPE. 127
conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive
another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond
their beauty cf form and colour.
We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try
experiments of this nature will not be deterred by saying,
' They are not worth the trouble.' It must be remembered
that very fine essences realise in the London perfumery
warehouses \6s. per pint of 20 ounces, and that ^n& flower-
scented pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the
experiments are successful, they should be published, as then
we may hope to establish a new and important manufacture
in this country, or our warm colonies. But we are digressing.
The perfume of heliotrope is perfectly extracted by means
of sulphuret of carbon by Millon's process as modified by Piver.
The odour of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds
and vanilla, and is well imitated thus : —
Extract of Heliotrope.
Spirituous extract of vanilla J pint
„ „ French rose pomatum
„ „ orange-flower pomatum .
„ „ ambergris
Essential oil of almonds
2 oz.
I „
5 drops.
A preparation made in this manner under the name of
Extrait de Hdiottope is that which is sold in the shops of
Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing
well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.
Piver, a Paris perfumer, has obtained from one hectare of
land a quantity of flowers, from which he extracted by Millon's
process 6 kilogrammes of perfume of heliotrope, worth j.ooofr.
Of this perfume, 4 grammes is sufficient to scent in an
exquisite manner a kilogramme of pomatum. It is not
injured by exposure to the air, and has enough stability, even
when not dissolved by alcohol, to bear, without loss of weight
or of intensity, being kept in open vessels.
1 28 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Honeysuckle, or Woodbine —
Copious of flower the woodbine, pale and wan,
But well compensating her sickly looks
With never-cloying odours.
What the poet Cowper here says is quite true ; nevertheless,
it is a flower that is not used in practical perfumery, though
there is no reason for abandoning it. The experiments
suggested for obtaining the odour of Heliotrope and Mille-
fleur (thousand flowers) are also applicable to this, as also to
Hawthorn. A good
Imilation of Honeysuckle
is made thus : —
Spirituous extract o
if rose pomatum
. I pint
»7 ?»
violet
1 „
JT )T
tubereuse .
• 1 „
Extract of vanilla
1
4 W
tolu
\ „
Otto neroli
lo drops
„ almonds .
• 5 »
The prime cost of a perfume made in this manner would
probably be too high to meet the demand of a retail druggist ;
in such cases it may be diluted with rectified spirit to the
extent ' to make it pay,' and will yet be a nice perfume. The
formula generally given herein for odours is in anticipation
that when bottled they will retail for at least eighteen-pence
the fluid ounce ; which is the average price put on the finest
perfumery by the manufacturers. The honeysuckle belongs
to the family of the Caprifoliacese (lonicera caprifoliuvi).
Hops. — The flowers of the hop plant, Humulvs lupultis,
yield a fragrant otto by distillation. On distilling a pocket,
about 120 lbs., of new hops of best Kent quality, I procured
just eight ounces of fragrant otto, limpid, and of a bay green
colour. A similar quantity of three year old Bavarian hops
yielded eleven ounces of otto. The workmen were warned in
case of its supposed narcotic action, but no such effects in the
HOVENIA— HYSSOP. 129
least degree were noticed. I have not yet employed it in
perfumery ; but I cannot tell how soon it may be, since people
have taken a liking to, and repeatedly asked for, a perfume so
unflowery as Russian leather !
HOVENIA. — A perfume under this name is sold to a
limited extent ; but if it did not smell better than the plant
Hovenia dulcis or H. incequalis, a native of Japan, it would
not sell at all. The article in the market is made thus : —
Imitation Essence of Hovenia.
Rectified spirit i quart
Rose-water \ pint
Otto lemons . . ^ oz
„ rose I drachm
» cloves \ »
„ neroli 10 drops.
First dissolve the ottos in the spirit, then add the rose-
water. After filtration it is ready for sale. When compounds
of this kind do not become bright by passing through blotting-
paper, the addition of a little carbonate of magnesia prior to
filtering effectually clears them. The water in the above
recipe is only added in order that the article produced may
be retailed at a moderate price, and would, of course, be better
without that ' universal friend.'
The stalks of the hovenia, when they become fleshy, are
eaten by the Japanese. According to Ksmpfer they taste
like the pear.
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis). — This plant yields by dis-
tillation an essential oil, which is sometimes used in ordi-
nary perfumeries, but more particularly by the distillers
who deal in liqueurs. When recently prepared it is colourless,
but in contact with the air becomes yellow as it changes to a
resin. It boils at about 160° (cent.) ; but the boiling point is
sometimes as high as 180°, which indicates that it consists of
at least two essences.
K
I30 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Ilang-Ilang (Cananga odorata). — This plant grows abun-
dantly in the Philippine Islands, and is especially cultivated
FLOWERS AND FRUIT OF CANANGA ODORATA.
in Manilla by M. Julien, of Westembayan, to whom I am in-
debted for the illustrations from which the annexed woodcuts
were prepared. The true Ilang-Ilang (Flower of Flowers)
ILANG-ILANG.
131
yields, by distillation of its blossoms, a minute quantity of an
CHAMPACA (MICHELIA CHAMPACA), OR FALSE ILANG.
otto resembling the odour of the flower from which it is de
rived. The value of this otto, when pure, is from i8j. to 22s
132 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
per oz. in the European perfume market. Unfortunately^
however, there grows in the same country the Champaca tree,
which yields an otto, by distillation of its leaves, somewhat
resembling in fragrance that of the Ilang-Ilang, but of little
more commercial value than the otto of Pimento, which
realises 2s. per oz. With this the true Ilang-Ilang is fre-
quently adulterated.
The otto of Ilang-Ilang has not been introduced into
Europe more than about sixteen years ; but the price that it
fetches, when pure, shows that it occupies a prominent place
amongst perfumes.
The odour of Hang has but little force : hence it requires
an unusual quantity of its otto to make a fair average hand-
kerchief scent, as will be seen by the following recipe for
Ilang-Ilang Extract.
Alcohol (60 over proof) i gallon
Hang otto 6 oz.
The cost of this perfume makes it far above the average of
others, and is very fleeting in fragrance. A blended perfume
containing otto of Hang, giving more satisfaction to the public
than the above recipe, may be made thus : —
Ilang-Ilang (blended).
Alcohol (60 over proof) i pint
Otto ilang i oz.
Otto pimento ^ oz.
Orris tincture 2 pints
Esprit rose, triple i pint
„ !> poni I ,,
„ tubereuse i »
„ cassie ......... i „
„ jasmine i „
I gallon.
It will be seen that this mixture contains otto of pimento,;
JASMINE. T33
the reason of its use is because, although Ilang-IIang has a
flower scent, it also has ' that within ' which imparts a spice
odour, as may also be observed in the common clove pink and
stock of English gardens.
The Cananga odorata is often spelled Ylang, also Ihlang :
the fact is the plant is unknown to European botanists ; few,
indeed, grasp the Malay tongue.
Jasmine.
Luxuriant above all,
The jasmine throwing wide her elegant sweets,
This flower is one of the most prized by the perfumer. Its
odour is delicate and sweet, and so peculiar that it is without
comparison, and as such cannot be imitated. When the
flowers of the Jasfninuni odoratissimum are distilled, repeat-
edly using the water of distillation over fresh flowers, a kind
of sweet-smelling essence is obtained which ultimately offers
a perfume of jasmine. It is, however, exceedingly rare, on
account of the enormous cost of production. Thepe wag a fine
sample of six ounces exhibited in the Tunisian department
of the Exhibition, 1862, the price of which was 9/. the fluid
ounce ! The plant is the Yasmyn of the Arabs, from which
our name is derived.
The cultivation of the jasniine is very extensive at Canneg
(du D^partement du Var) jn the south of Frf^nce. The manu-
facturing perfumers there do not grow all the jasniine they
consume, but are supplied every morning in the season, with
small lots of flowers, from various cottagers, who have little
plots of the plants. The cost pf these flowers ig from t^Q
to three francs the kilograpime, equal to about is. 6d. to
2s. 6d. the pound ; in this w^y the principal houses receive
daily from one to two hundredweight of blossoms ! The
cultivated jasmine differs from that jasmine we have in
England, inasmuch as the blossoms are four times the size of
the British or wild jasmine ; the plant also grows more like a
134
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
small bush, and, not being a creeper, requires no supports ; it
is, in fact, the Jasmin grandiflora of the botanists. Its
growth and cultivation resemble very much that of English
lavender.
JASMIN GRANDIFLORA.
Alphonse Karr has thus described a sale of some jessamines
at Nice : —
The other day I saw two cultivators in a garden ; one was buying of
the other four thousand Spanish jessamine roots. I was not present at
the struggle, but it must have been hot and passionate. When I arrived;
the sale of the jessamines was concluded. The ordinary price of the
JASMINE. 135
Spanish jessamine is from three to five francs the hundred roots. These
jessamines were splendidly loaded with large white flowers and pinkish
violet buds. The buyer took a pickaxe and uprooted them. I thought
he was mad. For jessamines torn up in full flowering, in the month of
August, would in France be considered entirely lost, and fit only to be
tied up in bundles for firewood. But this man, instead, carried his jessa-
mines home, planted them in the ground, threw a few buckets of water
over them, and left them to themselves. Three days afterwards I
went to see them ; they were in splendid condition, and had not ceased
flowering.
The jasmine is cultivated upon stems of the wild jasmine
(that which is seen in our English gardens) grafted at the
end of two years with the Spanish jasmine.
This produces a blossom the size of a shilling, of intense
fragrance. Jasmine requires a moist soil, or so situated that
it can be irrigated. The distance of planting out the jasmine
is the same as for the rose ; it must be very liberally pruned
every year. The flowers of the jasmine are produced from
July to the end of October, but those of August and Septem-
ber are the most fragrant. About fifty days, or fifty successive
inflowerings of fresh blossoms, produces the finest jasmine fat.
It requires about eight thousand plants to stock an acre ;
and they are not in full bearing till the second year after
grafting ; but when mature, every thousand plants yield about
sixty pounds' weight of flowers annually. They are planted
in rows, horizontal poles being thrust between them for
support, the branches being woven in and out, somewhat as
the raspberry canes are arranged by the Chiswick gardeners.
Every August — the jasmine season— the fields are alive with
women, old and young, and children, each having a little
basket at her side suspended by a strap across her shoulders,
both hands actively engaged in picking the flowers, and filling
the baskets. As each basket is filled it is conveyed to the
shaded laboratory and there weighed. An acre of land will
yield about five hundred pounds' weight of jasmine blossoms.
136
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
In the perfumer's laboratory, the method of obtaining the
odour is by absorption, or, as the French term it, enfleurage ;
that is, by spreading a mixture of pure lard and beef suet on
a glass tray (chassis en verre), and sprinkling the fresh-gathered
flowers all over it, leaving them to stand a day or so, and
repeating the operation with fresh flowers during the whole
time the jasmine plant is in blossom, which is for more than
six weeks ; the grease absorbs the odour. Finally, the
pomade is scraped off the glass, melted at as low a tempera-
GATHERING JASMINE BLOSSOMS,
ture as possible, and strained. It requires at least three
kilogrammes of flowers to perfurqe one kilogramme of grease.
Oils strongly impregnated with the fragrance are also
prepared much in the same way. Cotton cloths (inolleton de
coton), previously steeped in olive oil, are covered with jasmine
flowers, which is repeated sever£tl times ; finally, the cotton
cloths are squeezed under a press. The jasmine oil thus
produced is the Hidle antique an jasmin of the French bousesi.
(See Enfleurage.)
The extract of jasmine is prepared by pouring rectified
spirit on the jasmine pomade or oil, and allowing them to
JONQUIL. 137
remain together for a fortnight, at a summer heat. The best
quahty extract requires two pounds of pomatum to every
quart of spirit. The same can be done with the oil of jasmine.
If the pomade is used, it must be cut up fine previously to
being put into the spirit; if the oil is used, it must be shaken
well together every two or more hours, otherwise, on account
of its specific gravity, the oil separates, and but little surface
is exposed to the spirit. After the extract is strained off, the
' washed ' pomatum or oil is still useful, if remelted, in the
composition of pomatum for the hair, and gives more satisfac-
tion to a customer than any of the ' creams and balms,' &c.,
&c., made up and scented with essential oils ; the one smells
of the flower, the other Barbi?rous.
The extract of jasmine enters into the composition of a
great many of the most approved handkerchief perfumes sold
by the English and French perfumers. The extract of
jasmine made in England is much finer than the French, on
account of the inodorous quality of the British spirit. Extract
of jasmine is sold for the handkerchief often pure, but is one
of those scents which, though very gratifying at first, becomes
what people call ' sickly ' after exposure to the oxidising
influence of the air, but, if judiciously mixed with other, per-
fumes of an opposite character, is sure to please the most
fastidious customer.
In Turkey the jasmine is cultivated for a different pur-
pose. By reserving only a single axis to each stalk, they
obtain the beautiful straight stems which are used in the
manufacture of pipe-tubes.
Essence of jasmine, when cooled down to 0°, deposits a
white stearopten, crystalline, inodorous, fusible at 125°, hardly
soluble in water, easily soluble in spirit and ether.
Jonquil. — The scent of the jonquil is very pleasing ; for
perfumery purposes it is, however, but little cultivated in
comparison with jasmine and tubereuse. It is prepared
138 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
exactly as jasmine. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture
which they call 'extract of jonquil.' The plant, however,
only plays the part of a godfather to the offspring, giving it
its name. The so-called jonquil is made thus : —
Imitation Extract of Jonquil.
Spirituous extract of jasmine pomade . . .1 pint
„ tubereuse . . . . i „
„ fleur d'orange . . ■ \ „
Extract of vanilla 2 fluid oz.
True Extract of Jonquil.
Jonquil pomade 8 lbs.
Spirit (60 over proof) i gallon.
Let it stand one month.
The jonquil is produced by the Narcissus Jonquilla, of the
family of the Amaryllidacese.
KOOSHT, or COSTUS. Balfour says that the root of the
Aucklandia Costus has an aromatic odour, and is used in
Northern -India as incense ; in Bengal this same is called
Puchak. I have made some experiments with a sample of
Koosht which was sent to me by Mr. Collins, the curator of
the Museum of the Pharmaceutical Society : it appears to be
scarcely as odorous as orris root. The tincture has an agree-
able smell and would be useful, but no quantity has yet been
seen in our markets.
Since the above experiments, I have imported two hundred-
weight of costus, and which I find far superior to the original
sample ; being newer, it is more fragrant. Five lbs. of it to one
gallon of spirit makes an excellent tincture, and will cer-
tainly come into use as a base for several perfumes.
Laurel. — By distillation from the leaves of the Prunus
Laurocerasus, or cherry laurel, an oil and perfumed water are
procurable, of a very pleasant and fragrant character. Com-
mercially, however, it is disregarded, as, from the similarity
of odour to the oil distilled from the bitter almond, it is
LAVENDER. 139
rarely, if ever, used by the perfumer, the latter being more
economical.
Lavender.
In each bright drop there is a spell,
'Tis from the soil we love so well,
From English gardens won.
The climate of England appears to be better adapted
for the perfect development of this fine old favourite perfume
than any other on the globe. ' The ancients,' says Burnett,
• employed the flowers and the leaves to aromatise their
baths, and to give a sweet scent to water in which they
washed ; hence the generic name of the plant, Lavandula'
Lavender is grown to an enormous extent at Mitcham, in
Surrey, and at Hitchin, in Herts, by Mr. Perks, which are the
places of its production in a commercial point of view. Very
large quantities are also grown in France. What is called
the Alpine lavender of France is remarkably good ; but the
fine odour of the British produce realises in the market four
times the price of that of Continental growth. Burnett says
that the oil of Lavandula Spica is more pleasant than that
derived from the other species ; but this statement must not
mislead the purchaser to buy the French spike lavender, as it
is not worth a tenth of that derived from the Lavandula vera.
Half a hundredweight of good lavender flowers yields, by
distillation, from fourteen to sixteen ounces of essential oil.
Lavandula vera is a native of Persia, the Canaries,
Barbary, and the south of Europe, from the last of which it
is said to have been first brought to England, where, finding
a congenial soil, and being carefully cultivated, it yields an
essential oil, or otto, very far superior to that produced from,
it in its original places of growth. The peculiar qualities of
most plants are susceptible of change, and in many instances
of improvement, by cultivation ; but none, perhaps, more so
than this. It is not even in all parts of this country that it
I40
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
can be grown with success, and for many years it was sup-
posed that it would only come to perfection in the neighbour-
LA VENDER. 141
hood of Mitcham, in Surrey ; but it has, within the last half
century, been found that a soil and climate equally suited to
its growth exists near Hitchin, in Hertfordshire. There the
finest otto is now produced from its flowers, by Mr. S. Perks,
from whom we have received the following account of his
mode of its cultivation and treatment : —
The ground for a plantation of lavender should not be surrounded by
high hedges, or in the immediate neighbourhood of any trees, which tend
to retain too much moisture upon the plants, and thus cause the spring
frost to cut off the flowers, but should be as much exposed to the sun as
possible. •
In October, a large number of slips from the old plants are placed in
previously prepared beds, where they are allowed to remain for twelve
months, during which time they are carefully clipped. When a year old,
they are planted out (in fine weather) in rows four feet apart, with a space
of three feet from plant to plant, but are not allowed to flower, the clip-
ping being still continued, in order to strengthen them, which object is
further promoted by a regular supply of short manure to the roots. If
this cannot be procured in sufficient quantity, its place may be supplied
by superphosphate of lime, which greatly improves the appearance of the
plant, and causes it also to produce finer flowers.
The usual mode of procuring the otto is to put the flowers and stalks
into a still with sufficient water, and thus draw off the oil ; but I have
found by experiment that very little is produced from the stalks, and that
little of inferior quality. My present practice is therefore to employ only
the flowers, which are stripped from the stalks previously to the distillation ;
and though this is necessarily a more expensive way of proceeding, the
superior quality of the product enhances its value in an equal degree,
whilst the loss in quantity is very small. The aroma of the otto produced
by this process is so far superior to that of any other, as to be at once
perceptible to every one accustomed to the use of an inferior kind, and
even to those who may be said to have an entirely uneducated sense of
smelling. It is, in fact, a pure otto, and when suitably combined with
other appropriate materials, produces ' Lavender Water ' of the most
exquisite fragrance that has hitherto been made.
Since the publication of the last edition of this work, I
have had twelve years' possession of the stillery and lavender
land adjoining in the Mitcham Road, the very centre of the
Surrey flower farms. I have thus added to former knowledge
142 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
some practical experience in the field, and in the still-house,
not only with lavender, but with most of the other plants
cultivated at Mitcham, such as white peppermint, black
peppermint, pennyroyal, camomile, Provence and Damask
roses, rosemary, &c. The remarks I have to make in reference
to these plants will be found under their several headings.
The number of lavender plants upon an acre of ground
would be about 3,547 ; that is, if planted one yard apart and
four feet between the rows. An acre would yield about six to
seven quarts of otto, but it depepds upon the age of the
plants ; the latter, when about four years old, produce most.
Every fourth year the old lavender plants are taken up,
and the crop upon the land is changed ^to that of potatoes, or
some other, and it is here the practical farmer has to decide.
In the cases of some lands at Mitcham, lavender can be grown
for even six years, by judiciously removing worn plants, and
inserting young ones. Severe frost will often kill rows of plants,
and their place must be renewed. At the end of August or
early in September the lavender is fit to garner : it is cut with
a sickle, and is then laid upon a mat (these mats are the
common Indian bas matting), which will hold an average of
half a hundredweight each, and are then delivered at the still-
house. At my Mitcham stillery I have two stifls ; one will hold
twenty mats, or say half a ton of lavender, and half a ton of
water for its distillation ; the lesser still works about three
quarters of this quantity. Each still is worked over three
times during every twenty-four hours — the work is continuous
night and day. Thus for charging the still and firing one
hour is allowed ; the distillation will then continue for six
hours, when another hour of heavy work is used in discharg-
ing the still of the spent plant and getting ready for a new
charge. Twenty mats of lavender thus distilled will yield (an
average of seven years) sixteen pounds of otto. This otto at
Mitcham is always divided into Firsts (ists) and Seconds
LA VENDER. 143
(2nds). The firsts or best will be 15 lbs., the seconds i lb.
The last otto that runs is undoubtedly inferior to the first by
one half the market value of the firsts.
All the inferior descriptions of oil of lavender are used for
perfuming soaps and greases ; but the best, that obtained
from the Mitcham and Hitchin lavender, is entirely used in
the manufacture of what is called lavender water, but which,
more properly, should be called essence or extract of lavender,
to be in keeping with the nomenclature of other essences pre-
pared with spirit.
The number of formulae published for making a liquid
perfume of lavender is almost endless ; but the whole of them
may be resolved into essence of lavender, simple ; essence of
lavender, compound ; and lavender water.
There are two methods of making essence of lavender : —
I. By distilling a mixture of essential oil of lavender and
rectified spirit ; and the other— 2. by merely mixing the oil
and the spirit together.
The first process yields the finest quality ; it is that
which is adopted by the firm of Smyth & Nephew, whose
reputation for this article is such that it gives a good character
in foreign markets, especially India, to all products of lavender
of English manufacture. Lavender essence, that which is
made by the still, is quite white ; while that by mixture only
always has a yellowish tint, which, by age, becomes darker
and resinous.
Smyth's Lavender.
To produce a very fine distillate, take
Otto of English lavender 4 oz.
Rectified spirit (60 over proof) S pi"ts
Rose-water ' P'"'
Mix and distil five pints for sale. Such essence of lavender
is expensive, but at \os. a pint of 14 oz. (!) there is a margin
144 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
for profit. If not being convenient to the general dealer to
sell distilled lavender essence, the following form, by mixture,
will produce a first-rate article, and nearly as white as the
above : —
Essence of Lavender.
Otto of lavender . 6 oz.
Rectified spirit . . i gallon
The perfumer's retail price for such quality is loj. per
imperial pint of 20 oz.
Many perfumers and druggists, in making lavender water
or essence, use a small portion of bergamot, with an idea of
improving its quality — a very erroneous opinion ; moreover,
such lavender quickly discolours.
Lavender Water.
English oil of lavender 4 oz.
Spirit 3 quarts
Rose-water . i pint
Filter, and it is ready for sale.
Common Lavender Water.
Same form as the above, substituting French lavender for the British.
Recipes for Rondeletia, Lavender Bouquet, and other
lavender compounds, will be given when we come to speak
of compound perfumes, which will be reserved until we have
finished explaining the method of making the simple essences.
The Lavandula vera, D. C, is called female lavendfer ; and
the Lavandula Spica, male lavender.
Lemon. — This fine perfume is abstracted from the Cittus
Limonum, by causing the fruit to revolve in a metal cup ' lined
with spikes, this process producing the first quality ; by ex-
pression, and also by distillation from the rind of the fruit.
That which is procured by expression has a much finer odour
and a more intense lemony smell than the distilled product,
' See Illustration of the Ecuelle under Lime.
LEMON. 145
As a distinction the first quality and the expressed lemon is
called Citron Zeste, and the distilled quality is known as
Ess. Lemon. The importation of from 85,000 lbs. to 90,000
lbs. weight of otto of lemon annually into England proves
that Britannia has a great liking for this scent, which is ex-
tracted by rasping the fruit and afterwards expressing the
pulp so produced of the Citrus Limonum. The otto of lemons
in the market is principally from Messina, where there are
hundreds of acres of ' lemon groves ; ' indeed, the extraction
of the ottos of lemon, orange, and bergamot constitutes the
chief industry of Sicily, particularly in the vicinity of Palermo.
In the spiked cup or drum 100 or more lemons are operated
on at one time. No doubt, sooner or later, steam will be
employed to rotate these drums, and thus we may expect the
supply of these scents to be kept equal to the demand.
Nevertheless, as the land of Italy is already occupied, there
is ample room in European markets for similar ottos, should
they be produced in Australia. Otto of lemons, hke all the
ottos of the Citrus family, is prone to rapid oxidation when
in contact with air and exposure to light ; a high temperature
is also detrimental, and as such is the case, the otto should be
preserved in a cool cellar. Most of the samples from the gas-
heated shelves of the druggists' shops are as much like essence
of turpentine, to the smell, as that of lemons ; rancid oil of
lemons may, in a great measure, be purified by agitation with
warm water and final decantation. The following remarks,
made by Mr. Cobb, of Yarmouth, are useful : —
Being constantly anncyed by the deposit and alteration in my essence
of lemons, I have tried various methods of remedying the inconvenience.
I first tried redistilling it, but besides the loss consequent on distilling
small quantities, the flavour is thereby impaired. As the oil became
brighter when heated, 1 anticipated that all its precipitable matter would
be thrown down at a low temperature, and I applied a freezing mixture,
keeping the oil at zero for some hours. No such change, however, took
place.
L
1^6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The plan which I ultimately decided upon as the best which I had
arrived at, was to shake up the oil with a little hot water, and to leave the
water in the bottle ; a mucilaginous preparation forms on the top of the
water, and acquires a certain tenacity, so that the oil may be poured off
to nearly the last, without disturbing the deposit. Perhaps cold water
would answer equally well, were it carefully agitated with the oil and
allowed some time to settle. A consideration of its origin and constitu-
tion, indeed, strengthens this opinion ; for although lemon otto is
obtained both by distillation and expression, that which is usually found
in commerce is prepared by removing the ' fiavedo ' of lemons with a
rasp, and afterwards expressing it in a hair sack, allowing the filtrate to
stand, that it may deposit some of its impurities, decanting and filtering.
Thus obtained, it still contains a certain amount of mucilaginous matter,
which undergoes spontaneous decomposition, and thus (acting, in short, as
a ferment) accelerates a similar change in the oil itself. If this view of
its decomposition be a correct one, we evidently, in removing this matter
by means of the water, get rid of a great source of alteration, and attain
the same result as we should by distillation, without its waste or deteri-
oration in flavour.
I am, however, aware that some consider the deposit to be modified
resin. Some curious experiments of Saussure have shown that volatile oils
absorb oxygen immediately they have been drawn from the plant, and
are partially converted into a resin, which remains dissolved in the re-
mainder of the essence.
He remarked that this property of absorbing oxygen gradually in-
creases until a maximum is attained, and again diminishes after a cer-
tain lapse of time. In the oil of lavender this maximum remained only
seven days, during each of which it absorbed seven times its volume of
oxygen. In the oil of lemons the maximum was not attained until at the
end of a month ; it then lasted twenty-six days, during each of which it
absorbed twice its volume of oxygen. It is the resin formed by the
absorption of oxygen, and remaining dissolved in the essence, which
destroys its original odour. In conclusion, I would recommend that this
oil, as well as all other essential oils, be kept in a cool, dark place,
where no very great changes of temperature occur.
When new and good, lemon otto may be freely used in
combination with rosemary, cloves, and caraway, for perfuming
powders for the nursery. From its rapid oxidation it should
not be used for perfuming grease, as it assists rather than
otherwise all fats to turn rancid ; hence pomatums so .per-
LEMON GRASS.
H7
fumed will not keep well. In the manufacture of other
compound perfumes, it should be dissolved in spirit, in the
proportion of six to eight ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit.
There is a large consumption of otto of lemons in the manu-
facture of eau de Cologne ; that
P"arina uses it is easily discovered by
aidding a few drops of Liq. Ammonise
fort, to half an ounce of his eau de
Cologne, the smell of the lemon is
thereby brought out in a remarkable
manner.
Perhaps it is not out of place here
to remark that in attempts to dis-
cover the composition of certain per-
fumes we are greatly assisted by the
use of strong Liq. Ammoniae. Cer-
tain of the essential oils combining
with the ammonia allow those which
do not do so, if present in the com-
pound, to be smelt.
Lemon Grass.— According to
Thwaites, the otto in the market
under this name is derived from the
Andropogon citratus, a species of
grass which grows abundantly in
India. It is cultivated to a large
extent in Ceylon and in the Mo-
luccas purposely for the otto, which
from the plant is easily procured by
distillation. Lemon grass otto, or,
as it is sometimes called, oil of ver-
bena, on account of its similarity of
odour to that favourite plant, is im-
ported into this country in old English porter and stout bottles.
LEMON GRASS AND SECTION.
148 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
It is very powerful, and well adapted for perfuming soaps
and greases ; but its principal consumption is in the manufac-
ture of artificial essence of verbena. From its comparatively-
low price, great strength, and fine perfume (when diluted), the
lemon grass otto may be much more used than at present with
considerable advantage ttp the retail shopkeeper.
The annual production of lemon grass otto in Ceylon is
nearly i,SOO lbs., and it is valued there at \s. 4d. per ounce.
Specimens of the plant which produces it are to be seen at
the Royal Gardens, Kew.
The schcenanthus of the laboratory is the flowering rush
or St^o4j/os apofiaTitos of Dioscorides. It grows in Africa, and
especially in the Arabian deserts. Lemery states that it is
so abundant in the district of Mount Lebanon that the people
use it for the litter of camels, whence its designation, — Foenum
or Stramen camelorum. Royle says that it greatly resembles
a plant which comes from India, from which a volatile oil is
extracted named ^rajj oil of Namur.
Lemon-Scented Gum Tree, Eucalyptus Citriodora. —
The leaves of this species of EiLcalyptus, on being bruised,
yield a delightful citron-like odour, compared by some to the
smell of balm, and by others to that of citronella ; and when
the leaves are dried and placed among clothes or papers, they
impart an agreeable scent to them. Considering that it might
prove useful in an economical point of view. Dr. Bennett,
author of ' Gatherings of a Naturalist in Australia,' procured
a quantity of the leaves, which were distilled bj-^ Mr. Norie, a
practical chemist in Sydney, and it was found that three
pounds twelve ounces of leaves yielded by distillation six
drachms and a half of a pure, colourless otto ; a specimen of
which Dr. Bennett has placed in the Museum at Kew.
LiGNALOE. (See LiNALOE.)
Lilac. — The fragrance of the flowers of this ornamental
shrub is well known. The essence of lilac is obtained either
LILY. 149
by the process of maceration, or enfleurage with grease, and
afterwards treating the pomatum thus formed with rectified
spirit, in the same manner as previously described for cassie ;
the odour so much resembles tubereuse, as to be frequently
used to adulterate the latter, the demand for tubereuse being
at all times greater than the supply. An agreeable
Imitation of Essence of White Lilac
may be compounded thus : —
Spirituous extract from tubereuse pomade . . i pint
„ „ of orange flower pomade . ■ \ pint
Otto of almonds 3 drops
Extract of civet J oz.
The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume
of the handkerchief.
Lily. — ^The manufacturing perfumer rejects the advice of
the inspired writer, to ' consider the lilies of the field.' Rich
as they are in odour, they are not cultivated for their perfume.
If lilies are thrown into oil of sweet almonds, or olive oil, they
impart to it their sweet smell ; but to obtain anything like
fragrance, the infusion must be repeated a dozen times with
the same oil, using fresh flowers for each infusion, after
standing a day or so. The oil being shaken with an equal
quantity of spirit for a week, gives up its odour to the alcohol,
and thus extract of lilies may be made. But how it is made
is thus : —
Imitation Lily of the Valley.
Extract of tubereuse i pint
„ jasmine . i oz.
„ fleur d'orange .... . 2 oz.
„ vanilla 3 oz.
„ cassie \ pint
„ rose ipint
Otto of almonds 3 d^ops
ISO THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for
sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired.
Lime. — Among one of the Leeward Caribbees is Mont-
serrat, a little island on which Citrus Limetta grows most
prolifically, and ih almost an indigenous manner. Under the
care of Mr. Joseph Sturge, the Montserrat Company, of which
Mr. Sturge is director, annually produce no less than i,ooo lbs.
of the true otto of citron, all by means of the Ecuelle process,
and it is so pure that it is worth twice its present price in the
market ; but the products of Sicily, which are by no means
good, compete with it to its disadvantage. Mr. Sturge states
that ' his citron orchards consist of about 500 acres, and that
each acre contains about 200 trees. It takes seven years from
the seed for them to come into full bearing; they flower more
or less whenever Ihey get heavy rain, and the fruit ripens in
about four months after the flowers appear.' He therefore
gets fruit all the year round, but the chief harvest is from
September to January.
L Ecuelle. — This valuable instrument, which is used for
extracting the odorous principles from the fruit of the orange
THE ECUELLE.
and citron famil)', may be modified in size and form ; it is
sometimes shaped as a drum, the fruit being put inside ; the
drum is made to rotate by mechanical gearing. (See Lemon.)
LIME-TREE BLOSSOM— UN ALOE. 151
Lime-Tree Blossom. — Is there a Wickhamite that does
not remember the delightful scent of the flowers of the fine
old lime trees around Winchester Cathedral ?
There I stood beneath the flowering limes,
Whose golden blossoms waved above my head
A fragrant orchestra !
There is a fine avenue of lime trees on the approach to
Chiswick House, near to my own residence, Hughenden
House ; here I have often had opportunities of studying the
fragrance of their blossoms. I make a perfume which is a good
imitation of
Lime- Tree Blossom.
Spirit, 60 over-proof ....... 2 pints
Otto lignaloe i oz.
Rose triple, jasmin, and orris, of each ... \ pint
LiNALOE, also improperly called LiGNALOE. — The
Victorian era has been marked not only by the penny post
and shilling telegraph, by the discovery of gold in Australia
and diamonds at the Cape, but also by the introduction
of a veritably new perfume — linaloe. The otto of this plant
was first shown to me about 1865, but under the name linaloe.
I was then unable to find its origin, and the importers, Messrs.
Sargant and Son, were unwilling to give any information
respecting it. This at first caused doubts as to its being a
genuine production.
My Hyper-Osmia, however, confirmed me that I had a
new otto under my nose ; and thus convinced, by smell alone,
I have secured it a place in the laboratory.
Not being able to find linaloe in any English botanical
works, I had almost given up the solution of Messrs. Sargants'
secret, when I came across the word lignaloe, by hearing it
read one morning at church from the lessons of the day. Num-
bers xxiv. 6. Here, said I, is the revelation of the long sought
152 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
for linaloe ; it must be lignaloe. Now I had no difficulty in
learning all about this plant from the usual sources, and I at
once set to work to ' introduce ' it to the perfumery world, as
I then firmly believed it to be the 'lignaloe of the scriptures.'
One or two friends well versed in botany informed me that
the A quilaria Agallocha, the true lignaloe of the Bible, was
a tree of south-eastern Asia, and did not exist in the American
continent. Now I had learned from Messrs. Sargant that the
article veritably came from Mexico ! It was clear, then, that
if the botanists were correct, I could not be dealing with the
true lignaloe. Samples of the wood were procured from
Vera Cruz, and, being submitted to the authorities at Kew
Gardens, were quickly pronounced to be the Bois de Citron du
Mexique, so named by Guibourt, but which in Mexico is known
under the name of 'linaloe.' By the distillation of a hundred
pounds of the broken-up wood I procured several ounces of
otto of precisely the same smell and character as that which
was imported.' The otto of linaloe is perfectly white in
colour ; it appears to be very unalterable by the action of air
(oxygen) ; and it is here it differs so much from any of the
citron group of odours, but to which it nevertheless belongs
by fragrance, having a scent which in the gamut would be
^
It so much resembles the sweet odour of the lime-tree flowers
that, when properly diluted with spirit and with the addition
of a little rose, it makes an excellent imitation perfume of
lime blossoms (for which see p. 151). When otto of linaloe is
combined with soap, it loses odour rapidly, showing some
action by alkalies. It scents oil and grease very nicely. The
ground wood makes a good sachet. The following is the
' A good account of the linaloe has been published in the Pharmaceutical
yourital, by Mr. James Collins.
MACE— MAGNOLIA. 153
recipe of the now well-known handkerchief perfume as intro-
duced by the house of Piesse and Lubin : —
Essence of Lignaloe.
Tinctures of orris and vanilla, of each .... i pint
Esprit jasmin, and tuberevise
Rose triple
Spirit 60 over-proof .
Otto lignaloe
2 pints
2 pints
4 pints
3 oz.
Mace. — This substance is procured from the nutmeg-tree
{Myristica moschata et tomentosd) : thus, the nutmegs are
enclosed in four different covers ; the first is a thick husk,
something like that of our walnuts, but larger ; under this lies
a thin reddish coat, which is the mace of commerce; the mace
wraps up the shell and opens like a network, as the fruit, or
rather seed, grows ; the shell is hard and thin and destitute of
odour ; under this is a greenish film, of no use in trade, but
which is, in truth, the shirt of the seed or nutmeg. The odour
of mace only resembles that of nutmeg in being spicy ; it
cannot, however, be mistaken for the smell of nutmeg. The
otto of mace, like that of nutmeg, is readily procured by dis-
tillation. The nutmeg tree, like that of orange, gives distinct
fragrances in different parts of it. Thus we have otto of mace
and otto of nutmeg produced by the same plant within a
quarter of an inch of each other. What wonderful valves and
taps to keep them from mixing ! Ground mace is used in
the manufactnre of some of those scented powders called
sachets. The strong-smelling essential oil is useful for scent-
ing soap.
Magnolia. — The perfume of this flower is superb ; prac-
tically, however, it is of little use to the manufacturer ; the
large size of the blossoms and their comparative scarcity pre-
vent their being used ; but a very excellent imitation of their
odour is made as under, and is that which is found in the
perfumers' shops of London and Paris : —
154 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Tmitation Essence of Magnolia.
Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum . . i pint
„ rose pomatum . . 2 pints
„ tubereuse pomatum . ^ pint
„ violet pomatum .... J pint
Otto of citron zeste ... . . .3 drs.
„ almonds 10 drops
Marjoram. — The otto procured by distilling Origanum
majorana, commonly called oil of origan by the French, is
exceedingly powerful, and in this respect resembles all the
ottos from the different species of thyme, of which the mar-
joram is one. One hundredweight of the dry herb yields
about ten ounces of the otto. Origan oil is extensively used
for perfuming soap, but more in France than in England. It
is the chief ingredient used by Gelle Freres, of Paris, for
scenting their ' Tablet Monstre Soap,' so common in the
London shops.
Meadow-sweet, known also as Meadow-Queen. — A
sweet-smelling otto can be produced by distilling the Spircea
ulmaria, but it is not used by perfumers ; it is, however,
interesting as being one of those organic substances which can
be made in the chemical laboratory.
Mecca Balm. (See Balsam.)
Melissa. (See Balm.)
Mignonette, otherwise R£s£da. — But for the exquisite
odour of this little flower, it would scarcely be known otherwise
than as a weed. Sweet as it is in its natural state, and prolific
in odour, we are not able to maintain its characteristic smell
as an essence. Like many others, during separation from the
plant, the fragrance is more or less modified ; though not
perfect, it still reminds the sense of the odour of the flowers.
To give it that sweetness which it appears to want, a certain
quantity of violet is added to bring it up to the market odour.
As this plant is so very prolific in odour, we think some-
MIRIBANE—MINT. 1 5 5
thing might be done with it in England, especially as it flour-
ishes as well in this country as in France. We desire to see
Flower Farms and organised Perfumatories esta;blished in the
British Isles, for the extraction of essences and the manufacture
of pomade and oils, of such flowers as are indigenous, or that
thrive in the open fields of our country. Besides opening up
a new field of enterprise and good investment for capital, it
would give healthy employment to many women and children.
Open air employment for the young is of no little considera-
tion to maintain the stamina of the future generation ; for it
cannot be denied that our factory system and confined cities
are prejudicial to the physical condition of the human family.
To return from our digression. The essence of mignonette,
or, as it is more often sold under the name of, Extrait de
Reseda, is prepared by infusing the reseda pomade in rectified
spirit, in the proportion of one pound of pomade to one pint
of spirit, allowing them to digest together for a fortnight, when
the essence is filtered off the pomade. One ounce of extract
of tolu is added to every pint. This is done to give perma-
nence to the odour upon the handkerchief, and does not in
any way alter its smell. M. March, of Nice, is the principal
maker of Reseda pomade ; to use his own words, he has a
speciality for its fabrication. It is made by the enfleurage
process. By Millon's process an extract of mignonette is
obtained, which has the full odour of the flowers.
MiRIBANE. — The French name for artificial essence of
almond. (See Almond.)
Mint. — All the Menthidce yield fragrant ottos by dis-
tillation. The otto of the spear-mint {M. viridis) is exceed-
ingly powerful, and very valuable for perfuming soap, in
conjunction with other perfumes. Perfumers use the ottos of
the mint in the manufacture of mouth washes and dental
liquids. The leading ingredient in the celebrated ' eau
Botot ' is oil of peppermint in alcohol. Mint ottos have more
156
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
power than any other aromatic to overcome the smell of
tobacco. Mouth washes, it must be remembered, are as
much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a den-
tifrice. (See Peppermint.)
Musk-Seed. — This odorous substance, known in the per-
fumery trade as Grains d' Ambrette, is produced by the plant
Hibiscus Abelmoschus. Kabb-el-Misk is the Arabic name, of
which, says Burnett, Abelmoschus is a vile corruption. The
MUSK TRANSVERSE SECTION
SEED. OF THE MUSK SEED.
plant is cultivated in Martinique, whence this seed is ex-
ported. Very little is known in England of Chinese toilet
practices ; but we are told, on good authority, that from one
of these species, the Hibiscus Rosa sinensis, 'the Chinese
make a black dye for their hair and eye-brows, and a black-
ing for their shoes ! ' Musk seed, when ground, certainly
reminds our smelling sense of the odour of musk, but it is
poor stuff at b|est ; however, for making cheap sachet powder,
it may be used for variety's sake. When hair powder was in
MYR TLE—M YRRH.
IS7
fashion, perfumers used to scent the starch of which the
powder was made, by mixing the ground ambrette with the
fecula ; after lying together for a few hours, the starch was
then sifted away, and packed for sale. Musk seed is a native
of India, but the plant which produces it has been acclima-
tised in Egypt and the Antilles. The most valued comes
from Martinique.
Myrtle.
The laurel and the myrtle sweets agree.
And both in nosegays shall be bound for thee. — Horace.
A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling the
leaves of the common myrtle ; one hundredweight will yield
about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for
essence of myrtle being very limited, the odour as found in
the perfumers' shops is very rarely a genuine article, but is
imitated thus : —
Imitation Essence of Myrtle.
Extract of vanilla
roses
fleur d'orange
tubereuse
jasmine .
• ipint
. I pint
• h pint
. \ pint
. 2 oz.
it is then fit
Mix, and allow to stand for a fortnight:
for bottling, and is a perfume that gives a great deal of
satisfaction.
Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of
eau d'ange, and may be prepared like rose, elder, or other
flower waters.
The plant most commonly used is the Myrtus communis,
of the family of myrtaceae.
MVRRH. — This odorous gum or resin has been known
from time immemorial, as is evident from its frequent
mention in the Bible. Its fragrance is due to a peculiar otto
OF essential oils. One hundred pounds yield by distillation
ijS THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
about «ight ounces of the otto, which has all the character-
istics of myrrh in a high degree. Considering such a sub-
stance to possess interest, I have placed, a sample of the otto
of myrrh in the Museum at Kew.
Major Harris describes the myrrh tree (Balsamodeiidron
Myrrha) as growing abundantly on the Abyssinian coast of
the Red Sea to the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, over all the
barren hill-sides of the low zone inhabited by the Danakil or
Adaril tribes. It is called Kurbeta, and there exist two
varieties ; one (producing the better description of the gum)
being a dwarf shrub with deeply serrated crisp leaves of a
dull green ; while the other, which yields a substance more
like balm than myrrh, attains a height of ten feet, and has
bright shining slightly dentated leaves. The myrrh called
Hofali flows freely from any wound, in the form of a milky
juice, possessing a perceptible acridity, which either evapo-
rates or becomes chemically changed during the formation
of the gum. The seasons for collecting it are in January,
when the buds appear after the first rain, and in March, when
the seeds are ripe.
Every passer-by transfers such portions of it as he may
find to the hollow boss of his shield, and exchanges it for a
handful of tobacco with the next slave-dealer whom he meets
on the caravan route. The merchants also of the sea-coast,
before returning from Abyssinia, send into the forests that
gird the western bank of the river Hawash, and bring away
considerable quantities af the Hofali, which is sold at a high
price.
The natives administer it to their horses, in cases of
fatigue and exhaustion.'
Gum myrrh is used extensively by perfumers, in the
manufacture of dentifrices, in pastils, and fumigating spirits.
Myrrh is prescribed in the Mosaic law = as one of the
' Trans. Linn. Soc. ' Ex. xxx. 2'X
NARCISSUS— NEROLI. 159
exquisite substances of which the holy oil was to be com-
pounded. The Greeks named it Myrrha or Smyrna,
fancying that it was produced by the tears of the mother of
Adonis, after the gods in compassion had changed her into a
tree, to rescue her from the wrath of her father Cinyras.
Brandes states that good myrrh contains 2.60 per cent, of
a volatile oil, 22.24 of soft resin, and 5.56 of dry resin. It
also contains 55 per cent, of gum. It is therefore a gum resin.
Narcissus. — This plant is cultivated to a small extent
at Nice, and its odour is procured by enfleurage and macera-
tion. The smell of it to many is exceedingly grateful, but in
close apartments the exhalations of the plant are said to be
noxious ; indeed, its narcotic odour was known to the
ancients, and hence its name is said lo be derived from vapKr],
stupor. The following is a good form, imitating the odour
of narcissus when the true extract cannot be obtained : —
Extract of Narcissus.
Extract of tubereuse .... • • 3 pints
„ jonquil . . ... .2 pints
„ storax . . . . , \ pint
„ tolu . \ pint
Neroli, or Orange-flower. — The Orange is culti-
vated from seed or pips ; at the third year they are grafted,
either with the sweet Portugal or bitter Bigaradier ; at the
fifth year they should be planted into their final resting-place.
Before planting the orange, a tree which attains great
age, the soil upon which it is to live must be well prepared,
otherwise the after life of the tree will not be of that thriving
condition which we could desire. The soil should be
trenched at least four feet deep and well manured, and the
care bestowed upon the infant plant will be seen fifty years,
nay, even a century afterwards. A tree requires fifteen years
to reach maturity, but will produce both flowers and fruit in
i6o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
four-or five years. When in full vigour, each tree yields an
average of twenty-five pounds' weight of blossoms annually.
Many plantations of orange-trees at Nice are more than one
hundred years old. At Fontainebleau there are now to be
seen orange-trees planted by an ancestor of mine two
hundred years ago. There is a public market for orange-
blossoms during the season at Nice ; the bitter orange-
flowers fetch 3/. per kilogramme, the sweet about 2f.
The market season for orange-flowers at Nice lasts for
more than a month, as an average, and during that time
there are sold about fifteen to eighteen tons of flowers
daily ! 1 ! and a ton of flowers will yield more than a kilo-
gramme of otto, say forty ounces, worth 20/. sterling ; and
the residuary water, highly saturated with odour, is worth
another 10/. note.
Two distinct odours are procurable from the orange-
blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for pro-
curing them. This difference of perfume from the same
NERO LI. i6i
flower is a great advantage to the perfumery factor, and it is
a curious fact worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher.
This duality of fragrance is not peculiar to the orange-flower,
but applies to many others, especially rose — probably to all
flowers.
When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration
process — that is, by infusion in a fatty body— we procure
orange-flower pomatum, its strength and quality being regu-
lated by the number of infusions of the flower made in the
same grease. It requires eight kilogrammes of blossoms to
enflower one kilogramme of grease, divided over thirty-two
infusions — that is, a quarter kilogramme of flowers to every
kilogramme of fat for each maceration.
By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified
spirits, in the proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds
of pomade to a gallon of spirit for about a month at a
summer heat, we obtain the extrait de fleur d'orange, or
extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpassed
by none. In this state its odour resembles the original so
much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not dis-
tinguish the scent of the extract from that of the flower.
The peculiar flowery odour of this extract renders it valuable
to the perfumers, not only to sell in a pure state, but,
slightly modified with other extraits, passes for ' sweet pea,'
* magnolia,' &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance.
Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we
procure the otto of the blossom, which is known commer-
cially as oil of neroh. The neroli procured from the flowers
of the Citrus Aurantium is considered to be the finest
quality, and is called 'neroli petale,' or neroli douce, i.e.
sweet neroli. The next quality, ' neroli bigarade,' or bitter
neroli, is derived from the blossoms of the Citrus Bigaradia,
or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered
inferior to the preceding, is the ' neroli petit grain,' obtained
M
i62 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the
different species of the citrus. If a leaf of the orange-tree be
held up between the observer and the sun, he will perceive
small globular specks in the leaf, which are in truth the
sacs of otto; from this fact the term petit grain — piccolo— is
derived.
The ' petale ' and ' bigarade ' neroli are used to an enormous
extent in the manufacture of Hungary water and eau de
Cologne, and other handkerchief perfumes. The ' petit grain '
is mainly consumed for scenting soap. There are several
varieties of petit grain otto ; thus petit grain douce is pro-
cured by distillation from the leaf of the eating or sweet
orange tree. Petit grain limon is in like manner derived from
the leaf of the common lemon tree.
Petit grain bigarade is won from the leaf of the Seville
or bitter orange ; other varieties occur as numerous, as are the
Auran and Citrus. Dr. J. E. De Vrij, while at Bandong in
Java, made a very good neroli from the flowers of the
shaddoc tree, Citrus deaimana. To form the
Esprit Neroli.
Neroli petale ... 4 oz.
Rectified spirit i gallon
Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the
manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery
odour of the extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the
same flowers by maceration ; in fact, it has as different an
odour as though obtained from another plant, yet in theory
both these extraits are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of
the same flower.
The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli,
when well freed from the oil, is imported into this countiy
under the name of eau de fleur d'orange, and may be used
like elder-flower atid rose-water, for the skin, and as an eye
NEROLI. 163
lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, and it is
astonishing that it is not more used, being moderate in price.
There are three sorts of orange-flower waters found in
commerce. The first is distilled from the flowers ; the
second is made with distilled water and neroH ; and the
third is distilled from the leaves, the stems, and the young
unripe fruit of the orange-tree. The first may be easily
distinguished by the addition of a few drops of sulphuric acid
to some of the water in a tube ; a fine rose colour is almost
immediately produced. The second also gives the same
colour when it is freshly prepared ; but after a certain time —
two or three months at the farthest — this colour is no longer
produced, and the aroma disappears completely. The third
is not discoloured by the addition of the sulphuric acid ; it
has scarcely any odour, and that rather an odour of the
lemon plant than of orange- flowers. Hitherto England
has been dependent on Italy and the South of France for the
various odours derived from the orange ; but from the ex-
tensive cultivation of this plant at THE ORANGERY, near
Sydney, by Richard Hill, Esq., J. P., we may soon expect in
the markets of Britain the products of this plant from our
antipodean colony.
As there are full a dozen or more well-known varieties of
the orange, there may be procured a corresponding quantity
of varieties of otto from them.
The origin of the term ' Neroli,' applied to the otto of
orange-blossom, is not very definite. It may have been
named after the celebrated Roman Emperor Nero, who was
so fond of scents that he caused the roofs of his dining halls to
represent the firmament, and to shower down, night and day,
all sorts of perfumes and sweet waters ; or it may be that
' Neroli ' was first procured by the Sabines, who, to distin-
guish it from other perfumes of the period, named it neroli,
from ' nero,' which signifies ' strong.' The Sabines, it should
i64 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
be remembered, inhabited a province of Italy, Sabina, where
the orange-tree is very abundant. (See ORANGE ZESTE.)
During the past century, the odour of orange-flowers was
so much in vogue, that the cultivation of Louis XIV.'s
orange-trees was a source of considerable expense, for the
great king would have one of these favourite shrubs in each
of his apartments.
Nutmeg. — Few fragrant substances are of more com-
mercial importance than the nutmeg {Myristica moschatd).
' Its history,' says Burnett, ' affords an instance of the extrav-
agance to which the spirit of monopoly will urge and has
carried not only private individuals but even States.'
The principal nutmeg-gardens of the world are the Banda
Islands, colonised by the Dutch about two hundred and fifty
years ago. Soon after the subjugation of the original inha-
bitants, they endeavoured to secure to themselves the entire
trade in this odorous substance. For this purpose they en-
couraged the cultivation of the nutmeg-tree in only a few of
the islands ; and being over-anxious, for the sake of the
monopoly, to have them there exclusively under their own
command, they destroyed the trees in the neighbouring isles.
It will be remembered that they pursued the same policy
with respect to the clove-plant. More than once they have,
however, suffered dearly for their insatiable avarice : for the
dreadful hurricanes and earthquakes, which swept harmlessly
over the other islands, nearly annihilated the nutmeg-trees of
Banda in 1778. While the Dutch held the Spice Islands the
quantity of nutmegs and mace exported from their nutmeg-
grounds, circumscribed as they were, was truly enormous. The
quantity sold in Europe has been estimated at 250,000 pounds,
and in the East Indies at 125,000 pounds ; of mace, the average
has been 90,000 pounds sold in Europe, and 10,000 in India.
When the Spice Islands were taken by the British, in
1796, the importation by the East India Company into
NUTMEG.
i6s
England alone, in two years following the capture, were, of
nutmegs 129,723 pounds, and of mace 286,000 pounds. It
is thus evident that Britannia does not ' turn up her nose ' at
the odour of nutmeg and mace.
When the crops of spice have been superabundant, and
the price, in consequence, likely to be reduced, the same
ignorant spirit before mentioned has actuated the Dutch to
destroy immense quantities of the fruit rather than suffer the
market price to be lowered. When Sir William Temple was
at Amsterdam a merchant who had returned from Banda
assured him that ' at one time he saw three piles of nutmegs
NUTMEG WITH MACE UPON IT.
burnt, each of which was more than a church of ordinary
dimensions could hold.' Mr. Wilcocks, the translator of
• Stavarinus's Travels,' relates that he beheld such a con-
flagration of cloves, nutmegs, and cinnamon upon the island
of Newland, near Middleburgh, in Zealand, as perfumed
the air with their peculiar fragrance for many miles round.
Balfour says that 'in 18 14, when the Moluccas were in the
possession of the English, the number of nutmeg-trees planted
out was estimated at 570,500, of which 480,000 were in bearing.
The produce of nutmegs in the Moluccas has been reckoned
at from 600,000 to 700,000 pounds per annum— of which
1 66
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
half goes to Europe — and about one-fourth that quantity of
mace. The annual consumption of nutmegs in Britain is
said to be 140,000 pounds. The nutmeg-tree, like many
others, yields two distinct odorous substances ; that is, otto of
mace (see Mace), and otto of nutmeg. The otto of nutmeg,
of which we have here to speak, is a beautiful white and
transparent fluid, having an intense fragrance of the nut,
from which it is easily procured by distillation. It enters
into the composition of numerous perfumery preparations, of
which the Frangipanni series are examples. As it is more
powerful than cloves it must be used sparingly ; but, when
used with judgment, combines happily with lavender, santal,
bergamot, and others.
By expression the nutmeg will also yield an unctuous
fat-oil of an agreeable odour ; this combined with an alkali
produces a pleasant soap. Forty years ago such soap was
commonly sold by perfumers under the name of Bandana or
Banda soap, but which is now quite out of date.
OLIBANUM. 167
The pleasant odour of the nutmeg is familiar to all. The
ground nuts are used advantageously in the combinations
of scented powders used for scent-bags. (See Sachet
Powder.)
According to Cloez the otto of nutmeg can be obtained
by distillation in contact with water, or sulphuret of carbon
and distillation. The crude oil is a complex product, whose
boiling-point is about 168°, and this temperature is maintained
for some time before its rises to 210°. The rectified essence
is liquid and colourless, and does not solidify at — 1 8°. It
boils at 165° ; turns the plane of polarisation of luminous rays
to the left; has a rotatory force equal to —13.5°; and may
be represented by C^°H'^ (four volumes).
The concrete oil of nutmeg, obtained by expression (butter
of nutmeg), is prepared in the countries which produce it ; that
is to say, the Moluccas, Banda, and Cayenne. It is offered in
the shape of oblong cakes, wrapped in palm-leaves, solid,
oily, friable, of a pale yellow colour, or yellow marbled with
red, and having a strong smell of nutmeg. Sometimes it
happens that the essence has been withdrawn by distilla-
tion, or that some fatty inodorous bodies have been mixed
with it.
Olibanum is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in
this country in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It
is chiefly interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies
of which frequent mention is made in the Holy Volume.
' It is believed,' says Burnett, ' to have been one of the
ingredients in the sweet incense of the Jews ; and it is still
burnt as incense in the Greek and Romish churches, where
the diffusion of such odours round the altar forms a part of the
prescribed religious service.' Mr. P. L. Simmonds says : —
The gum olibanum of commerce is the frankincense of the ancients
and the luban of the Arabs. In India it is obtained from several species
of Boswellia, serrata, thurifera, and glabra. No botanical description
i68 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
appears to have been published of the African tree, although Captain
Kempthorne, Major Harris, and other travellers furnished some general
account of it. The tree invariably grovifs from the bare and smooth sides
of the white marble rocks, or from isolated blocks of the same, scattered
over the plain, without any soil whatever. On making a deep incision
into the trunk the resin exudes profusely, of the colour and consistence
of milk, but hardening into a mass by exposure to the air. The young
trees produce the best and most valuable gum, the older merely yielding
a clear glutinous fluid resembling copal, and exhaling a strong resinous
odour.
Olibanum was formerly in high repute as a sovereign remedy against
inflammation of the eyes, and as an efficacious remedy in consumption.
It was also commonly drank as a stimulant in wine. But for all these
purposes it has long gone out of use, and is chiefly imported here for re-
shipment to the Continent, being bought up by the Greek merchants for
the use of the Church.
The trees that produce the luban or frankincense are of two kinds,
viz. the luban meyeti and the luban bedowi. Of these the meyeti, which
grows out of the naked rock, is the more valuable ; and when dean-
picked and of good quality it is sold by the merchants on the coast for
i\ dollar per frasila of 20 lbs. The luban bedowi of the best quality is sold
for I dollar per frasila. Of both kinds the palest colour is preferred. The
trees vary greatly in height, but are never above twenty feet, with a stem
of nine inches in diameter. Their form is very graceful, and when
springing from a mass of marble on the brink of a precipice their
appearance is especially picturesque.
Although the Wursungili range and other mountainous tracts afford
an inexhaustible supply of frankincense, it is a mistake to suppose that
elevated districts produce the best gum.
Lieutenant Cruttenden, in his journey among the Edoor tribes, states
that the gum of the large-leaf kind of frankincense tree is not much
prized.
Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, lilce most of
the balsams, probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odorife-
rous body, associated with the benzoic acid it contains.
For making the tincture or extract of olibanum take one
pound of the gum to one gallon of the spirit.
Two species of olibanum or frankincense are recognised,
one of Indian and the other of African origin. The o-um
contains, according to Braconnot, a small quantity of volatile
OPOPANAX— ORANGE ZESTE. 169
oil, a resin soluble in spirit, a gum soluble in water, and a
resin insoluble in either water or alcohol.
Opopanax.
Sweet issue of a more sweet-smelling sire. — BARD OF Avon.
The plant which produces the gum resin of this name is
the Opopanax Chironium of the botanists, found plentifully
growing wild in Sicily. The resin itself has been described
in drug-books from the time of Dioscorides ; but the mode of
collecting it, the quantity produced, &c., I have been unable
to discover. Pelletier made an analysis of it, showing it to
contain about 3 per cent, of otto of a very remarkably strong
and aromatic odour, much abused by some as being nauseous,
and praised by others for its fragrance. It is the same with
patchouly and musk : they have their friends and enemies,
but the latter carmot prevent their use. When opopanax was
first introduced as a perfume it was very generally abused by
those who had not smelled it, but said it was nasty because
they read it was so described in a Bloomsbury journal. No
perfume ever made, eau de Cologne excepted, has ever had
a larger sale.
Orange Zeste, or Portugal. — Under the title Neroli
we have already spoken of the odoriferous principle of the
orange-blossom. We have now to speak of what is known in
the market as essence of orange, or, as it is more frequently
termed, essence of Portugal, derived from the rind of the
fruit of the sweet orange.
The otto of the orange fruit or peel is procured mostly in
December and January, by rubbing the oranges in a metal
cup covered with spikes, known as an Ecuelle. This causes
otto of very pure quality to flow from the otto-glands.
The fruit, after the otto is obtained, is cut up and mixed with
bran, and given to cows for food. Cows fed thus yield very
fine milk. A second quality of essence of orange-peel, or
I7P THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Portugal, is obtained by rasping the peel or flavedo and
then submitting it to pressure. A third and commonest
kind is procured by distilling any of the refuse of former
operations.
The abundance of otto in the peel is shown by pinching
a piece near the flame of a candle ; the otto that spurts out
ignites with a brilliant illumination.
It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing
fragrance finds numerous admirers.
It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as ' Lisbon
water ' and ' eau de Portugal.' The following is a very useful
form for preparing
Lisbon Water.
Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over-proof) . . i gallon
Otto of orange-peel 4 oz.
„ citron zeste 2 oz.
„ rose J oz.
This is a form for
Eau de Portugal.
Rectified spirit (60 over-proof) i gallon
Essential oil of orange-peel 8 oz.
„ of citron zeste 2 oz.
„ of bergamot .... . i oz.
„ of otto of rose j oz.
Grape-spirit for this article produces the finest quality.
It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be
put into wet bottles, for if in any way damp from water a
minute portion of the ottos is separated, which gives an
opalescent appearance to the mixture. Indeed, all bottles
should be spirit-rinsed ^^nor: to being filled with any perfume,
but especially with those containing essences of orange or
lemon peel.
No tree is so profitable to the flower-farmer as the orange,
and emigrants to any of our warm colonies should make a
ORANGE ZESTE. 171
note of this, and fix on their memory that the leaves of
orange yield an otto worth 3^. an ounce ; that the flowers
yield an otto worth loj. an ounce ; that the blossom also
yields, by inflowering, a fat worth 8j. per pound ; that the
rind of the fruit yields an otto worth I2j. to \6s. per pound ;
and that the fruit, if it cannot be sold by the score in the
market, is a relished food for cattle.
Of all the scent-yielding plants none has a value at all
equal to that of the orange. It is a mine of perfume in itself.
The blossoms yield, according to their mode of treatment,
two distinct odours, one having the true scent of the flower,
the other a scent called Neroli. Orange-peel, too, furnishes
a delightful perfume, with which all of us are famiUar ; and
lastly the leaves give a scent inferior only to the true neroli.
Here thtn we have from one plant no fewer than four perfumes.
Orange stocks are raised from seeds or pips, and in the third
year they are grafted either with the sweet Portugal or
bitter Bigaradier. In the fifth year they should be planted
where they are to stand ; the soil in which they are to be
placed should be trenched at least 4 feet deep and well ma-
nured, inasmuch as fifty years, nay, even a century after-
wards, the results of good early treatment will be apparent.
Orange-trees require fifteen years to reach maturity, but they
will produce both flowers and fruit in four or five years.
When in full vigour each tree yields on an average 25 lbs.
weight of blossoms annually.
The otto of the orange fruit is procured from the peel by
what is called the ecuelle process. The ecuelle is a tinned
copper bowl, furnished with concentric rows of short spikes or
teeth, and a hollow handle, with a gutter from it to the edge
of the bowl, through which liquid from the hollow handle can
be poured. In order to obtain the otto the fruit is rolled by
hand over and over the spikes, thus breaking the peel in such
a manner that the otto spurts out into the ecuelle, and finds
172
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
its way into the Rollow handle, which, when /ull, is emptied
into another vessel. An inferior quality of otto is - procured
by rasping and slicing the peel, and then pressing out the
juice ; and this, and the better process just described, are
those by which the fruits of all citronworts are divested of
ORRIS ROOT.
their scent-yielding properties— operations which are put into
practice to a great extent at Messina, in Sicily. (See Neroli.)
Orris, properly Iris.— The dried rhizome of Iris floren-
tina has a very pleasant odour, which, for the want of a bet-
ter comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets ; it is.
ORRIS. 173
however, exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of
that modest flower when such invidious comparisons are
made. Nevertheless, the perfume of iris root is good, and
well worthy of the place it has obtained as a perfuming
substance.
For commercial purposes this plant is extensively culti-
vated at Pontassieve, in Toscana. M. Michele Grazzini,
who is one of the largest growers there, kindly supplies the
following information as to its cultivation : —
' The harvest of the root takes place every three years ; the
plants are dug up early in the spring-time, before they move
for the next year's growth ; the flags are cut back, as shown
in the illustration ; each root is then decapitated at a point
indicated by the arrow at A ; the head is then replanted,
and grows with great vigour, making in the course of the
three years numerous offshoots and fresh roots. It flourishes
best in a soil that is somewhat marshy and stony — in fact, a
poor soil — and requires no manure ; it is of a larger growth
than the common blue flag of the English gardens, the flowers
far less numerous, ahd of a very pale blue ; moreover, it does
not come into blossom till five or six weeks later than its
naturalised English ally.
' The roots are spread out to dry and ripen in the open air ;
each root is then trimmed with a knife into the shape as found
in the market ; it is also at the same time sorted into the
various qualities, some being bleached with fumes of burning
sulphur. This operation is, however, detrimental to it for
perfumery purposes. The bleached orris root, however, finds
a sale, as there is a considerable manufacture of turned beads
from it ; every peasant possesses a few hanks of orris beads,
and there are also some exported to neighbouring countries :
the chips and turnings from the orris bead manufacture at M.
Grazzini's establishment amount to more than one ton in
weight per annum ; they are very suitable to make tincture
174 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of orris, for which purpose Messrs Piesse and Lubin have
employed them, at the same time economising about 30J. per
cwt. over the crushed orris ordinarily used.
' When distilled, orris root yields an otto smelling as the
dried root ; but I cannot say much in its favour.'
The powder of orris root is very extensively used in the
manufacture of sachet powders, tooth powder, &c. It fathers
that celebrated ' Oriental herb ' known as ' odonto.' For
tincture of orris, or, as the perfumers call it,
Extract of Orris.
Take orris root, crushed 7 lbs.
Rectified spirits i gallon
After standing together for about a month the extract is fit
to take off. It requires considerable time to drain away ;
and, to prevent loss, the remainder of the orris should be
distilled with water to recover the spirit. This extract enters
into the composition of many of the most celebrated bouquets,
such as 'Jockey Club' and others, but is never sold alone,
because its odour, although grateful, is not sufficiently good
to stand public opinion upon its own merits ; but in combi-
nation its value is very great. Possessing comparatively little
aroma itself, it has the power of strengthening the odour of
other fragrant bodies ; like the flint and steel, which, though
comparatively incombustible, readily fire inflammable bodies.
Palm {Elceis guineensis). — The odour of palm oil — the fat-
oil of commerce — is due to a fragrant principle which it
contain.s. By infusion in alcohol the odoriferous body is
dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the tincture of
orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and is not
likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have
been made to render it of service when the cultivation of the
violets has failed from bad seasons.
Patchouly {Pogostemon Patchouli, Lmdley ,• Plectranthus
PATCHOVLY.
175
crassifolius, Burnett). — This is one of the most unique of
scent-yielding plants. It is a labiate, stated by some authors
to be a native of Silhet, a district of Bengal, some 120 miles
from Decca ; it is now, however, known to grow in Java and
Ceylon, and also on the Malay coast, and, one must say, in
China, because its odour is very clearly defined in the black-
stick ink, commonly called Indian ink, which comes from
that country. About the year 1850 patchouly began to be
imported into England. Europe now obtains otto of patchouly
from the fresh herb. Much is distilled by Mr. Scott, of
Penang. It would pay growers to cultivate it in any of our
PATCHOULY.
warm colonies. Were the otto of it cheaper, the consumption
could be increased tenfold. Growing plants of it can be seen
in the Economic House, at Kew Gardens.
Having flowered in the conservatories of M. Vignat-Parelle,
at' Orleans, the plant was recognised by M. Pelletier as be-
longing to the family Pogostemon. It somewhat resembles
our garden sage in its growth and form, but the leaves are
not so fleshy.
The odour of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the
leaves and stems, and is readily procured by distillation.
176 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
One hundredweight of good herb will yield about twenty-
eight ounces of otto, which is of a dark brown colour, and of
a density about the same as that of the otto of santal wood,
which it resembles in its physical character. Its odour is the
most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom ;
hence, if mixed in the proportion of measure for measure, it
completely covers the smell of all other bodies.
Extract of Patchouly.
Rectified spirit i gallon
Otto of patchouly ly oz.
„ rose \oz.
The essence of patchouly thus made is that which is found
in the perfumers' shops of Paris and London. Although few
perfumes have such a fashionable run, yet, when smelled at in
its pure state, it is far from agreeable, having a kind of mossy
or musty odour, analogous to Lycopodium ; or, as some say,
it smells of ' old coats.'
The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due
to some admixture of this herb and camphor.
The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in
Europe is curious. A few years ago real Indian shawls bore
an extravagant price, and purchasers could always distinguish
them by their odour ; in fact, they were perfumed with
patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time
successfully imitated the Indian fabric, but could not impart
the odour.
At length they discovered the secret, and began to import
the plant to perfume articles of their make, and thus palm
off home-spun shawls as real Indian ! From this origin the
perfumers have brought it into use. Patchouly herb is ex-
tensively used for scenting drawers in which linen is kept ;
for this purpose it is best to powder the leaves and put. them
into muslin sacks, covered with silk, after the manner of the
PEA— PEPPERMINT. i-j-j
old-fashioned lavender-bag. In this state it is very efficacious
in preventing the clothes from being attacked by moths.
Several combinations of patchouly will be given in the recipes
for ' bouquets and nosegays.'
Pea (Sweet). — A very fine odour may be extracted from
the flowers of the chick-vetch by enfleurcige with any fatty
body, and then digesting the pomade produced in spirit. It
is, however, rarely manufactured, because it is possible to pre-
pare the following very close
Imitation of the Essence of Sweet Pea.
Extract of tubereuse ^ pint
„ fleur d'orange i pint
„ rose from pomatum ^ pint
„ vanilla . I oz.
In giving the recipe for ' sweet pea ' as above we form it
with the impression that its odour resembles the orange-
blossom, which similarity is approached nearer by the addi-
tion of the rose and tubereuse.
The vanilla is tised merely to give permanence to the
scent on the handkerchief ; and this latter body is chosen in
preference to extracts of musk or ambergris, which would
answer the same purpose of giving permanence to the more
volatile ingredients, because the vanilla strikes the same key
of the olfactory nerve as the orange-blossom, and thus no new
idea of a different scent is brought about as the perfume dies
off from the handkerchief. When perfumes are not mixed
upon this principle, then we hear that such and such a perfume
becomes 'sickly ' or 'faint ' after it has been on the handker-
chief a short time.
Peppermint. — The finest peppermint is that cultivated
at Mitcham, Surrey ; the sight of the numerous acres of this
plant at that place is alone sufficient to show the public taste
for this odour ; strictly speaking, however, peppermint is con-
N
178 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
sumed more through the mouth than the nose. Large as
is our own consumption, England exports a considerable
amount of the otto of peppermint, which is readily obtained
from it by distillation.
There are several plants which yield fragrant oils when
distilled with steam. Among this class peppermint holds a
high place, on account of its exhilarating as well as its
aromatic qualities. Without vouching for the correctness of
any of the statements there, I insert the following paragraph
cut from the ' Scientific American.' It appears to be written in
our cousins' usual ' tall ' style. If the figures were all reduced
to one-tenth of their stated value, I think they would represent
nearer the truth.
About 3,000 acres of it are under cultivation in North America, viz.
1,000 in New York and Ohio, and 2,000 in St. Joseph's County, Michi-
gan, which appears to be its head-quarters. It is raised exclusively for its
oil, about 7 lbs. of which is the average yield for an acre of plant, the
price being loj. per pound. The roots of the peppermint are planted
thickly in rows, between which spaces are left for the cultivator to pass.
The plant is generally cut about the latter part of August, and placed in
small cocks, like those of hay, which are allowed to stand in the fields
some days before being taken in for distillation. Great care is exercised
to prevent weeds growing among the plants, so as to ensure a pure article of
otto. The fields are ploughed up and changed every five years ; the first
year's crop being generally the most abundant and the purest.
The apparatus for distilling peppermint consists of a boiler for raising
steam, a still made of wood for receiving the charge of peppermint, a
cooler for condensing the oil, and a receiver into which it flows. The
wbiole apparatus is exceedingly simple. The plants are packed into the
wooden still and trampled down with the feet ; when a full charge is thus
ready the lid of the still is put on and steam admitted at the bottom by a
pipe from the boiler. When the peppermint is heated to about 212°
Fahr. its otto passes over with the steam into a worm, which is placed
in a cooler; and as it condenses into oil and water it then passes
out of the worm into a connected receiver, where the otto, as it floats on
the surface, is lifted out with dippers, placed in tin cans, and is ready for
sale.
The refuse mint taken from the still is placed in piles, dried, and then
becomes tolerable fodder for sheep. About 12,000 lbs. of peppermint oil
PEPPERMINT. 179
are shipped to England per annum, and the profits are about 18 per cent,
upon the capital invested and the labour required to carry on the entire
business.
The peppermints find at Mitcham all the conditions they
require to arrive at perfection — a temperate climate, a sandy-
soil, an abundance of moisture. The Croydon drainage
works have, however, reduced the last item, and the mints
have suffered accordingly. There are two varieties of pepper-
mint grown at Mitcham, which are there technically termed
' white ' and ' black.' The white is the Mentha piperita of the
botanist ; but the black I am unable to define, as it does not
agree with any that I can find described. Several good and
well-known authorities whom I have invited to see the plant
growing at various stages have as yet been unable to help
me in this matter ; however, the botanical difference only
appears to be that the flowers and the leaves of the black
mint are much darker in colour than the white. Commercially
there is as much as ten shillings per pound difference in the
market value of the ottos produced from them, the black
being inferior.
It would be a very natural question to ask. Why not
grow all white, since it is more valuable than the black .''
The answer is, that the black variety is far more hardy
than the white ; hence it will better bear spring frost, longer
drought, and climatic influence generally than its ally. Again,
the black mint will yield by one-fifth to one-sixth more otto
per acre than the white, all conditions being equal. All things,
therefore, being considered, it would not be sound farming to
cultivate one kind only. The mats of mint do not average in
weight more than one-half that of lavender. (For the tech-
nical term ' mat ' see the article LAVENDER.) Hence twenty
mats of peppermint which will fill Piesse and Lubin's large still,
will not weigh, at an average, more than half that of the same
number of mats of lavender. The word ' average ' I use very
i8o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
frequently advisedly, because it is next to impossible to fix
exactly the quantity of mint or lavender that is put into the
still or into a single mat, from the fact that of necessity it
must vary according to the degree of dryness when the plant is
cut — a degree which very sensibly differs every season as well
as during the two months' period of the harvest of one year.
WHITE MINT.
Dr. Geiseler, who has conducted some investigations on
the respective merits of distilled oil of peppermint by steam
heat and by the heat of the naked fire, has arrived at the fol-
lowing conclusions : —
■s
Dried peppermint herb affords by distillation over the naked fire a
greater quantity of oil than by distillation by the aid of steam.
PEPPERMINT. i8i
The oil obtained by steam distillation is specifically lighter, and of a
brighter colour, than that distilled over a naked fire.
By the rectification of the latter by means of steam heat, an oil is
obtained which is equal to that obtained by steam distillation, and has a
specific gravity of .910, while the oil remaining behind by steam rectifi-
cation in the retort shows a specific gravity of .930.
BLACK MINT.
Fresh peppermint herb gives by steam distillation and by distillation
over a naked fire an equal quantity of otto.
Dried peppermint herb contains two different ottos, possessing diffe-
rent boiling points and different specific gravities. The otto of higher
specific gravity must be formed from that of the lower specific gravity
during the drying and keeping of the herb, as the freshly-dried herb
affords only one otto, of specific gravity .910.
1 82 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Peppermint is too familiar in the lozenge shape ever to
become a favourite as a perfume ; nevertheless perfumers use
a fair portion of it in scenting soap and in the making of
mouth washes : for these, however, it is employed by French
perfumers more than by English. The fact is, fine pepper-
mint is a scarcer article with them than us ; so by a law of
human nature — ever seeking for that which is the most dif-
ficult to obtain — the Continental people esteem it more than
we do.
One of the most esteemed articles of perfumery manu-
facture in which peppermint takes the initiative is the re-
nowned Eau Botot.
Peku, Balsam of. — The odour of this substance re-
sembles very nearly that of vanilla, but it is not so generally
pleasing ; in appearance it resembles ordinary treacle or
molasses. On account of its dark colour it cannot be very
much employed in spirit perfumery ; but added to soap it
imparts its fragrance and at the same time causes the soap to
wash with a soft, creamy lather. Balsam of Peru having also
the repute of a mild medicinal action upon the skin, soap con-
taining it is said to be ' healing ; ' hence it is useful in winter
for chapped skin : the proportions are, Balsam of Peru 2lbs.,
curd soap 561bs., melted together.
Dr. C. Dorat, of La Union, State of Salvador, Central
America, has furnished some interesting particulars of its pro-
duction, which we append.
The tree is handsome, rather widely branching below, diminishing at
top, and about fifty feet high. The flowers, which are very odoriferous,
appear in the latter part of September and the beginning of October, at
the extremities of the branches, generally in pairs, numerous on each
stem, white and unequal ; calyx of a pale bluish green, and very glutinous,
from exuding balsam. Leaves of a dark shining green. The fruit is
almond-shaped, winged, and containing a white kernel, with much
balsam.
A very superior balsam is sometimes collected from the flowers, but is
very scarce, and never found in commerce. The tree produces after five
PERU, BALSAM OF. 183
years' growth, and attains a great age. It prefers a dry and poor soil,
but is never found above an altitude of 1,000 feet: The aroma is perceived
at a distance of more than 100 yards. The tree having attained the
proper age, five or six years, the coseche, or collecting, begins with the
dry season early in November. The bark, for some distance up, is well
beaten on four sides with the back of an axe, or other blunt instrument,
until it has separated from the woody part, but without injury or breaking.
This requires great care. In performing this operation, four intermediate
strips of bark are left untouched, so as not to destroy the vitality of the
tree.
Several notches or cuts are now made in the portions of beaten bark
with a sharp machite, and fire is apphed to the openings. The exuding
balsam kindles, and is allowed to burn for a certain time, and then
extinguished.
The tree in this state is left for fifteen days, and carefully watched ;
after which time the balsam, which begins to run copiously, is received
on cotton rags stuffed into the cuts. When saturated, they are pressed
and thrown into the earthenware pots, with boiling water, on which the
balsam soon floats like oil. It is occasionally skimmed off and thrown
into clean jars, while fresh rags are added. The extraction from the
tree is only made during four days of each week — that is, four coseches
per month for each tree — and the average produce is from three to
five pounds per week. As soon as the supply begins to fail, fresh cuts
are made in the bark, fire again applied, and after fifteen days' rest
the extraction is resumed. In this manner the collecting continues until
the first rains appear in April or May, when all trabajo or work ceases.
When thus prepared, the balsam is of a very dark brown colour,
dirty, and of the consistency of treacle. It is cleared and cleaned on the
spot, by settling and reboiling, when the impure parts rise to the surface
and are skimmed off. This impure part is sold for manufacturing an
inferior tincture, used medicinally among the Indians.
The balsam in this state is purchased on the coast, at an average of
from three to four reals per pound. It sometimes undergoes a second
clearing, when it fetches a higher price as ' refinado.' When first cleaned
it is of an amber colour, which darkens on cooling ; finally, after a few
weeks, it becomes dark brown.
A good tree, with careful usage, will produce well for thirty years,
after which it is allowed to remain five or six years at rest, or, as the
Indians say, to renew its strength. After this period it will again yield
for several years.
According to a manuscript copy of a papal bull, at present
among the old records in Tzalco, Balsamo Negro was in such
i84 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
high estimation, that in 1562 Pio IV., and in 1571 Pio V.,
issued orders authorising the clergy to use this precious balsam
in the consecration of the ' Sagrada Crisma,' and pronounced
it sacrilege to destroy or injure the trees producing it.
Copies of these bulls are, I am informed, still in existence
among the archives of Guatemala. (See BALSAMS.)
The balsam imported into England as Balsam of Peru, is produced
within the department of Sonsonate, in the republic of Salvador, and
along the coast of which department the trees from which it is extracted
extend for leagues.
In the district of Cuisnagua there are 3,574 trees, which yield alto-
gether only 600 lbs. of the gum annually. With proper care in the
extraction each tree would yield from two to three pounds, making the
total quantity capable of being produced, in the before-mentioned
district, about 10,000 lbs. When the season has been more rainy than
usual the product is much lower ; but in order to meet this difficulty, the
Indians heat the body of the tree by fire, — by this means causing the
gum to exude more freely ; this operation invariably causes the decay of
the tree.
Should this mode of extracting the gum by heat not be put a stop to,
the tree will soon disappear from the coast. This fact has been brought
to the notice of the Government, and inquiries into the matter have been
made in consequence.
The Indians employed in collecting the gum say that such trees as
are well shaded yield a greater quantity, but that those which have been
planted by hand yield the most. This has been proved by experience,
particularly in Calcutta, where a considerable quantity is yearly collected
from trees which have been so planted. During the months of December
and January, the gum oozes away spontaneously. This class of gum is
called ' Calcauzate.' It is orange-coloured, weighs less than the other
emits a strong odour, and is volatile and pungent.
The export of balsam from Salvador in 1855 was 22,804 lbs., valued
at 19,827 dollars. On the coast of Chiquimulilla, in Guatemala, there are
many trees of the description that yield the balsam ; but hitherto it has
not attracted the attention of the people of the country to collect it and
bring it to market. That part of the coast in the state of Salvador, ex-
tending from Acajutla to Libertad, is emphatically termed the ' Balsam
Coast;' because there only is collected the article known in commerce as
the Balsam of Peru.
The particular district is intermediate to the two ports, and does not
reach either of them within three or four leagues. Lying to the seaward
PETIT GRAIN— PINE-APPLE. 185
of a low lateral ridge of mountains, the whole tract, excepting a few parts
on the borders of the ocean, is so much broken up by spurs and branches
thrown off from the main eminence, and so thickly covered by forest, as
to be nearly impassable to a traveller on horseback. From this cause it
is so rarely visited that very few residents, either of Sonsonate or Salvador,
have ever entered it. Within this space are situated some five or six
villages, inhabited solely by Indians, who hold no intercourse with other
towns than what is necessary for carrying on their peculiar traffic.
Their chief wealth is the balsam, of which they take to market from
18,000 to 23,000 lbs. weight annually. It is sold in small portions at a
time, in the before-mentioned towns, to persons who purchase for export-
ation. The trees yielding this commodity are very numerous on this
privileged spot, and apparently limited to it : for in other parts of the
coast, seemingly identical in soil and climate, rarely an individual of the
species is met with. The balsam is extracted by making an incision in
the tree, whence it gradually exudes, and is absorbed by pieces of cotton
rags inserted for the purpose. These, when thoroughly saturated, are
replaced by others, which, as they are removed, are thrown into boiling
water. The heat detaches it from the cotton, and the valuable balsam,
being of less gravity than the water, floats at the top, is skimmed off, and
put in calabashes for sale. This balsam was long erroneously supposed
to be a production of South America ; for in the early periods of the
Spanish dominion, and by the' commercial regulations then existing
relative to the fruits of this coast, it was usually sent by the merchants
here to Callao, and, being thence transmitted to Spain, it there received
the name of the Balsam of Peru, being deemed indigenous to that region.
The real place of its origin was known only to a few mercantile men. —
'The Technologist.'
Petit Grain. — This will be found described under
Neroli.
Pine-apple. — Both Dr. Hofmann and Dr. Lyon Play-
.fair have fallen into some error in their inferences with regard
to the application of this odour in perfumery. After various
practical experiments conducted in a large perfumatory, we
have come to the conclusion that it cannot be so applied,
simply because, when the essence of pine-apple is smelled at,
the vapour, when exceedingly dilute, produces an involun-
tary action of the larynx, producing cough. Even in the
infinitesimal portions it still produces disagreeable irritation
1 86 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of the air-pipes, which if prolonged, such as is expected if
used upon a handkerchief, is followed by intense headache.
It is obvious, therefore, that the legitimate use of the essence
of pine-apple (butyric ether) cannot be adopted with benefit to
the manufacturing perfumer, although invaluable to the con-
fectioner as a flavouring material. What we have here said
refers to the artificial essence of pine-apple, or butyrate of
ethyloxide, which, if very much diluted with alcohol,
resembles the smell of pine-apple, and hence its name ; but
how far the same observations are applicable to the true
essential oil from the fruit or epidermis of the pine-apple,
remains to be seen when we procure it. As the West Indian
pine-apples are now coming freely into the market, the day
is probably not distant when demonstrative experiments can
be tried ; but hitherto, it must be remembered, our experi-
ments have only been performed with a body resembling in
smell the true essential oil of the fruit. The physical action
of all ethers upon the human body is quite sufficient to
prevent their application in perfumery, however useful in
confectionery, which it is understood has to deal with another
of the senses — -not of smell, but of taste. The commercial
' essence of pine-apple,' or ' pine-apple oil,' and 'jagonelle
pear-oil,' are admitted only to be labelled such, but really
are certain organic acid ethers. For the present, then, the
perfumer must only look on these bodies as so many lines in
the ' Poetry of Science,' which, for the present, are without
practical application in his art. (For the manufacture of
artificial fruit-essence, see Appendix.)
Pimento. — Both leaves and berries of this plant yield by
distillation a fine otto ; that, however, from the berries should
be chosen by the perfumer. Several plants yield analogous
ottos by the leaf and flower, or the leaf and the bark, such as
petty grain from the orange leaf, and neroli from the flower,
otto cinnamon from the cinnamon (inner bark), cassia (outer
PIMENTO.
187
bark), and cinnamon leaf oil from the leaves. The odour ot
pimento resembles a mixture of cloves and nutmegs, and in
a gamut of odours would be placed on the scale one octave
between them.
One hundredweight of cloves will yield eighteen pounds
of otto, but a hundredweight of pimento will yield only six
pounds of otto ; hence without some real advantage in odour
which it has not, pimento cannot commercially take the place
of cloves. When the clove crop fails, as it did in 1 872, then
the pimento could be fully appreciated.
In France the name pimento is applied to several
different substances : — i. The pimento of Jamaica, pimento
of the English, amone, allspice, Jamaica pepper, Myrtus
pimenta of Linnaeus ; 2. Pimento Tabago, coarser than the
former, attributed to the Myrtus acris ; 3. Crowned pimento.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
or Thevet pepper, Myrtus pimentoides (Nees d'es) or Myraia
pimentoides (D.C.) ; 4. Royal pimento, myrick gale; 5. The
pimento of the gardens. Capsicum annuum, of the family of
the Solanacese, and the pimento of cayenne, Capsicum frute-
scens, of the same family. The first two only are referred to
in this work. (See ALLSPICE.)
Much of the Ylang-Ihlang essence which is shipped from
Malay appears to contain an undue proportion of otto of
pimento.
Pink {Dianthus Caryophyllus). — The clove pink emits a
most fragrant odour, " especially at night," says Darwin.
The lavish pink that scents the garden round
is not, however, at present applied in perfumery, except in
name.
Imitation Essence of Clove Pink.
Esprit rose . . ^ pint
„ fleur d'orange . . . \ pint
„ fleur de cassie .... ■ ■ \ pint
„ vanilla .... . . . 2 oz.
Oil of cloves . . lo drops
It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles
the odour of the flower, and the public never doubt it being
the ' real thing.'
Rhodium. — When rose-wood, the lignum of the Convol-
vulus scoparitis, is distilled, a sweet-smelling oil is procured
resembling in some slight degree the fragrance of the rose, and
hence its name. At one time — that is, prior to the cultivation
of the rose-leaf geranium — the distillates from rose-wood and
from the root of the Genista canariensis (Canary rose-wood),
were principally drawn for the adulteration of real otto of
roses ; but, as the geranium oil answers so much better, the
oil of rhodium has fallen into disuse, hence its comparative
scarcity in the market at the present day, though our grand-
fathers knew it well. One cwt. of wood yields about three
ounces of oil.
ROSE. 189
Ground rose-wood is valuable as a basis in the manu-
facture of sachet powers for perfuming the wardrobe.
The French have given the name jacaranda to rose-wood,
under the idea that the plant called jacaranda by the Bra-
zilians yields it, which is not the case : ' the same word
has perhaps been the origin of palisander — palixander, badly
written ' — Burnett.
The essence of rose-wood, or of Rhodes, is liquid, oily,
yellowish, has the scent of rose, a bitter flavour, and is
lighter than water. Guibourt clearly distinguishes rose-wood
from the sweet jacaranda of Brazil. Many other woods of the
Leguminosae and the Lauraceae are still designated rose-wood.
Rose.
Go, crop the gay rose's vermeil bloom
And waft its spoils, a sweet perfume,
In incense to the skies. — Ogilvie.
When Nero honoured the house of a Roman noble with his imperial
presence at dinner, there was something more than flowers ; the host
was put to an enormous expense by having (according to royal custom)
all his fountains flinging up rose-water. While the jets were pouring out
the fragrant liquid, while rose-leaves were on the ground, in the cushions
on which the guests lay, hanging in garlands on their brows, and in
wreaths around their necks, the coiileur de rose pervaded the dinner itself,
and a rose pudding challenged the appetites of the guests. To encourage
digestion there was rose-wine, which Heliogabalus was not only simple
enough to drink, but extravagant enough to bathe in. He went even
farther, by having the public swimming-baths filled with wine of roses and
absinthe. After breathing, wearing, eating, drinking, lying on, walking
over, and sleeping upon roses, it is not wonderful that the unhappy
ancient grew sick. His medical man touched his liver, and immediately
gave him a rose draught. Whatever he ailed, the rose was made in some
fashion or another to enter into the remedy for his recovery. If the
patient died, as he naturally would, then of him, more than of any other,
it might be truly said that ' he died of a rose in aromatic pain.' Dr.
Capellini relates the story of a lady who fancied she could not bear the
smell of a rose, and who fainted at the sight of one of those flowers,
which turned out after all to be artificial.'
' Memoire sur I'Influence des Odenrs.
igo THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
It is a fact that some persons have a great dislike to the
smell of the rose. The famous Gr^tay was an example of
this.
This queen of the garden loses not her diadem in the
perfuming world. The oil of roses, or, as it is commonly-
called, the otto, or attar, of roses, is procured (contrary to so
many opposite statements) simply by distilling the roses with
water.
The otto, or attar, of rose of commerce is derived from
the Rosa centifolia provincialis. Very extensive rose farms
exist at Adrianople (Turkey in Europe) ; at Broussa and at
Uslak (Turkey in Asia) ; also at Ghazepore, in India.
The cultivators in Turkey are principally the Christian
inhabitants of the low countries of the Balkans, between
Selimno and Carloya, as far as Philippopolis, in Bulgaria,
about 200 miles from Constantinople. Had not the first
Russian aggression been ' nipped in the bud,' by the advance
of the emblem of the rose, shamrock, thistle, and fleur-de-
lis, it is nearly certain that the scene of the war would have
been laid not in the Crimea, but in the Rose Farms of the
Balkan : nevertheless, who is there would have doubted
the prowess of the descendants of the Houses of York and
Lancaster ?
The following is a summary of the production of otto in
Roumelia previous to the Russo-Turkish war of 1877-78 : —
K^zanlik 27,776 oz.
Guenpsa ... 12,064 »
Karaja-Bogh . , 6,144 „
Tchirpan 2,592 „
Koyoun-Tdpd . . . j^ggg „
Pazardzik . 1^760 ^^
Yeni-Zaaghra . j 728
Zaaghra . . . . ,'568 "
SS,52o „
ROSE.
191
This estimate is based on the average production of the
last ten years ; but in 1 866 it reached 96,000 ounces, and in
1872 it fell to 27,000 ounces. . As to the commercial value of
the otto, it may fairly be estimated, when pure, at from 25^. to
30J. per ounce. In round numbers we may therefore say that
the rose farms of Roumelia are worth 70,000/. to 80,000/. per
annum. That rose and other flower farms can be established
in Fiji, Queensland, and at Swan River, I have but little doubt,
and to landowners there I commend the figures recorded.
My friend, Mr. Amerling, a Turkish drug merchant,
residing at Constantinople, sends me the following particulars
in reply to my request for information of a practical character
relating to the production of otto of rose : —
The roses are grown at K^zanlik in Roumelia, and the annual produce
is about 500,000 meticaux; 10 or 12 okes' of roses will render i metical.
The process of distilling is the same as that of spirits, par alembic. The
produce of this year will be less than the previous ones, viz. only
200,000 to 250,000 meticaux.
The cultivation of the roses for extracting otto is the same as for the
ordinary roses. I beg to add on the subject of distilling, that you must
put in a boiler as many okes of roses as of water, boil the same, and then
extract oil par alembic. Then you remove from the boiler the roses, and
boil again the first extract of the alembic, and it is then the second
produce of the alembic that gives the oil of roses.
To 10 okes of roses you may put 40 or 50 okes of water in the boiler
or alembic, and boil them well. You may add at the opening of the
alembic a bottle which may contain about 7 okes. When full you remove
it, and you put another one in its place ; and when this also is full, you
put in the same way a third one. In this way you obtain about 21 okes
of oil in three bottles, of first, second, and third water ; then you empty
the boiler, and clean it well. Afterwards you pour into it the contents of
the first bottle drawn, and boil it. The alembic then will give the oil of
roses floating on the water, which you separate. Then you go on with
the same process with the second and third bottles. The first bottle pro-
duces better oil than the second, and the second better than the third. In
the cultivation there is no particular feature, excepting that in the winter you
cover the roots with earth, which you break on the approach of summer.
' One Turkish oke is about 2| to 2| lbs. English.
19^! THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The important thing is to collect the roses at day-break, otherwise
the roses will not yield so much.
Mr. Blunt, the British Vice-Consul at Adrianople, in his
report to the Foreign Office, gives an account of the rose-fields
of the vilayet of Adrianople, extending over 12,000 or 14,000
acres, and supplying by far the most important source of
wealth in the district. The season for picking the roses is
from the latter part of April to the early part of June ; and
at sunrise the plains look like a vast garden full of life and
fragrance, with hundreds of Bulgarian boys and girls gather-
ing the flowers into baskets and sacks, the air impregnated
with the delicious scent, and the scene enlivened by songs,
dancing, and music. If the weather is cool in spring, and there
are copious falls of dew and occasional showers, the /:rops
prosper, and an abundant yield of oil is secured. The season
in 1866 was so favourable that eight okes of petals (less than
23 lb.), and in some cases, seven okes, yielded a miscal of oil.
If the weather is very hot and dry it takes double that quantity
of petals. The culture of the rose does not entail much trouble
or expense. Land is cheap and moderately taxed. In a
favourable season a donum (40 paces square) well cultivated
will produce 1,000 okes of petals, or 100 miscals of oil,
valued at 1,500 piastres ; the expenses would be about 540
piastres — management of the land, 55; tithe, 150; picking,
75 ; extraction, 260— leaving a net profit of 960 piastres,
or about 8/. i \s. An average crop generally gives about
5/. per donum clear of all expenses. The oil is extracted
from the petals by the ordinary process of distillation. The
attar is bought up for foreign markets, to which it passes
through Constantinople and Smyrna.
The otto from different districts slightly varies in odour ;
many places furnish an otto which solidifies more readily than
others, and, therefore, this is not a sure guide of purity, though
many consider it as such. That which was exhibited in the
ROSE ESSENCES. 795
Crystal Palace of 1851, 'from Ghazepore,' in India, obtained
the prize.
The otto of rose which is procured by distillation from
the Provence rose of the south of France and of Nice has a
very characteristic fragrance, imparted to it I believe by the
bees, which carry the pollen of the orange blossoms so
numerous in this district into the rose bu(^s. The French
otto is richer in stereopten than the Turkish ] an ounce and a
half will crystallise in a gallon of spirit at the same temper-
ature that would require three ounces of the best Turkish
otto to do the same.
Attar of roses made in Cashmere is considered superior to any other ;
a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the flower is here
produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty. A large quantity of
rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run off into an open vessel, placed
overnight in a cool running stream, and in the morning the oil is found
floating on the surface in minute specks, which are taken off very care-
fully by means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green
colour, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature about
that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of leaves are
required to produce one ounce of the attar.'
"=*
At Rome, the odour of the rose was in such request, that
Lucullus expended fabulous sums, in order to be able to have
it at all seasons. But in our day pure otto of roses, from
its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers ; when diluted,
however, there is nothing equal to it in odour, especially- if
mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form
the esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to
evaporate very fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell df
the otto.
The finest preparation of rose as an odour is made at
Grasse and Cannes, in France.
Nothing can be simpler or more primitive than the farming operations.
Roses, for example : the field is first scantily manured — especially with
' Indian Encyclopaedia.
O
194 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the refuse matter left after the distillation of various plants — it is then
ploughed with oxen at the yoke ; young plants of roses, procured from
layers in the usual way, by tongueing and laying at a joint, or the off-
shoots from the mother plant are taken away and planted in rows, two
feet from each other, each row being about five feet asunder. Each root
before planting should be cut down to within two or three buds, and
Nature does the rest. The cabbage Provence rose is the kind cultivated.
In the second year a considerable quantity of flowers appears, but itis not
until the fourth year that they are fully developed. A plantation of roses
well tended will last from six to eight years ; but for this the land must
be well drained. It requires about seven thousand rose plants to cover
an acre, and this acre will produce in an average season five thousand
pounds' weight of roses of the value of one penny to three-halfpence per
pound, yielding say 30/. an acre.'
The above quotation refers to the French cultivation of
roses, the Turkish system differing somewhat, as will be seen
in the further text. Here the flowers are not treated for the
otto, but are subjected to the process of maceration in fat, or
in oil, as described under JASMINE, HELIOTROPE, ViOLET.
It requires 10 kilogrammes of roses to enfleurage i kilo
gramme of grease. ' The value of the roses varies from
50f. to \f. 2Sc. the kilogramme ; that is, about 6d. to is. the
pound. After the maceration process has been worked for
a few days, the pomade is then subject to the injieurage
operation.
The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say
8 lbs. of No. 24 pomade to i gallon of spirit, yields an esprit
de rose of the first order, very different in smell to that
which is made by the addition of otto to spirit. It is
difficult to account for this difference, but it is sufficiently
characteristic to form a distinct odour. See the articles on
Orange Flower and Neroli which have similar qualities,
previously described. The esprit de rose made from the
French rose pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer ;
he reserves this to form part of his recherche bouquets.
' From my Lectures delivered before the Royal Horticultural Societv.
ROSE-WATER. 195
Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it
for some time to country practitioners, for them to form
extemporaneous rose-water, which it does to great per-
fection.
Roses are cultivated to a large extent in England
near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use, to make rose-
water. In the season when successive crops can be got,
which is about the end of June, or the early part of Jul)',
they are gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to
London in sacks. When they arrive, they are immediately
spread out upon a cool floor ; otherwise, if left in a heap,
they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as to be
quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly
absorbs oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass
of freshly-gathered roses.
To preserve these roses, the London perfumers im-
mediately pickle them ; for this purpose, the leaves are sepa-
rated from the stalks, and to every bushel of flowers, equal
to about 6 lbs. weight, i lb. of common salt is thoroughly
rubbed in. The salt absorbs the water existing in the petals,
and rapidly becomes brine, reducing the whole to a pasty
mass, which is finally stowed away in casks. In this way
tney will keep almost any length of time, without the
fragrance being seriously injured. A good Rose-water can
be prepared by distilling 12 lbs. of pickled roses, and 2\
gallons of water. ' Draw ' ofi" 2 gallons ; the product will be
the double- distilled rose-water of the shops. The rose-
water that is imported from the south of France is, however,
very superior in odour to any that can be produced here. As
it is a residuary product of the distillation of roses for pro-
curing the otto, it has a richness of aroma which appears to
be inimitable with English-grown roses.
Most commonly a weight of distilled water equal to that
of the roses employed is drawn off'.
196 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
So ancient is the custom of using fragrant waters, that
one of the oldest authors repeatedly mentions it. In the
' Arabian Nights ' (written prior to the Christian era), in the
story of Aboulhassan, it will be remembered that
When the prince of Persia visited the queen, and that he had partaken
of refreshments, the slaves brought him golden basins filled with odo-
riferous water to wash in, and that after the declaration of love by the
queen and the prince they both fainted, but were brought to themselves
again by throwing odoriferous water upon their faces, and by giving
them things to smell.
Let one attend him with a silver bason,
Full of rose-water. — Taming of the Shrew.
There are six modifications of essence of rose for the
handkerchief, which are the ne plus ultra of the perfumer's
art. They are — esprit de rose triple, essence of white roses,
essence of tea rose, essence of moss rose, twin rose, and
Chinese rose, The following are the recipes for their form-
ation : —
Esprit de Rose Triple.
Rectified alcohol i gallon
Otto of rose .... . . . 3 oz.
Those who admire the rose's fragrance will find the fol-
lowing formula yield a most recherM quality : —
Piess^s Twin Rose,
Rose pomade (No. 24) . . , . . g u,s
Spirit (60 over proof) . i ggjion
French otto of rose , , , . li oz
Let the spirit stand on the pomade for a month, then strain it
off and add the otto, Mix at a summer heat ; in the course
of a quarter of an hour the whole of the otto is dissolved
and is then ready for bottling and sale. In the winter season
ROSE ESSENCES.
197
beautiful crystals of the otto — if it is good — appear dis-
seminated through the esprit. (It requires twice the
quantity of Turkish otto to crystallise at the same tem-
perature.)
Essence of Moss Rose.
Spirituous extract from French rose pomatum . . i quart
Esprit de rose triple i pint
Extract fleur d'orange . .^ . . . i pint
„ of ambergris \ pint
„ musk . , 4 02,
Allow the ingredients to remain together for a fortnight ;
then filter, if requisite, and it is ready for sale.
Essence of White Rose.
Esprit de rose from pomatum
„ „ triple .
„ violette ,
Extract of jasmine
„ patchouly .
I quart
I quart
I quart
I pint
i pint
Essence of Tea Rose.
Esprit de rose pomade
„ „ triple .
Extract of rose-leaf geranium
„ santal wood
„ neroli .
,, orris ,
I pmt
I pint
I pint
ipint
ipint
Chinese Yellow Rose,
Esprit rose triple , 2 pints
„ tuberguse . , 2 pints
„ tonquin , \ pint
„ vervaine i pint
Flowers adapted for the preparation of essence of roses
are produced by several species of rose tree. The kinds most
1 98 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
used in France are the Rosa centifolia and damascena.
Essence of rose is a mixture of two essences, one of which is
solid up to 95° and boils at 300° : this is a hydrocarbonate ;
the other is liquid and oxygenated. It is the latter which
possesses the odour of the rose. The presence of essence of
geranium in that of rose is established by means of sulphuric
acid, which has no effect on the otto of geranium. Nitrous
vapours turn the essence of rose yellow and the essence of
geranium green. Iodine does not colour the former, but it
turns the latter brown.
Rosemary.
There's rosemary ; that's for remembrance.— Shakespeare.
By distilling the Rosmarinus officinalis a thin limpid otto is
procured, having the characteristic odour of the plant, which is
more aromatic than sweet. One hundred weight of the fresh
herb yields about 24 ounces of oil.
Rosemary is cultivated to a small extent at Mitcham in Si^rrey, its
general treatment being the same as lavender (see Lavender), differ-
ing only from that plant in that it requires more years to arrive at a
stage of growth sufficient to allow the sickle to be used, for the otto exists
most in the leaf and but little in the flower. Otto of English-grown rose-
mary bears a market value of about ten times that of German, French,
or Spanish, in which latter country vast tracts of it are found growing
wild. Bertolin states that the odour of rosemary off the Spanish coast,
during the harvest season, is perceptible long before the land comes in
sight ; a somewhat similar story, it will be remembered, is told by the
botanist Frangipanni, with regard to the Plumeria alba of Antigua.*
Otto of rosemary is very extensively used in perfumery,
especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap.
Eau de Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once
famous ' Hungary water ' it is the leading ingredient. The
following is the composition of
' See Appendix : Mercutio Frangipanni, versified by William Brough.
RUE. 199
Hungary Water.
Grape spirit (60 over proof) I gallon
Otto of Hungarian rosemary ■ 2,oz.
„ lemon peel i oz.
„ balm (melissa) . . . . . . 1 oz.
„ mint J drachm
Esprit de rose . . i pint
Extract of fleur d'orange i pint
It is put up for sale in a similar way to eau de Cologne,
and is said to take its name from one of the queens of
Hungary, who is reported to have derived great benefit from
a bath containing it, at the age of seventy-five years. There
is no doubt that clergymen and orators, while speaking for
any time, would derive great benefit from perfuming their
handkerchiefs with Hungary water, as the rosemary it
contains excites the mind to vigorous action, sufficient of the
stimulant being inhaled by occasionally wiping the face with the
handkerchief wetted with these ' waters.' Shakespeare giving
us the key, we can understand how it is that such perfumes
containing rosemary are universally said to be so refreshing !
Rue. — What our Lord says (Matthew xxiii. 23, and Luke
xi. 42) — ' Ye pay tithes of mint and rue, and all manner of
herbs, but have omitted the weightier matters of the law '— is
indicative that the fragrance of rue had caused it to be grown
to an extent sufficient to call for a tithe of it for the church
use at a very early period. The odour of rue is exceedingly
penetrating and diffusive ; on this account it has from time
immemorial been esteemed highly prophylactic. The sprigs
of rue placed on the bar of the Central Criminal Court will
be observed by every visitor to Newgate. The origin of its
use there is traced to the time when the prison cell was
indeed a never-cleansed den of carnivorous animals. The
• The Hungarian rosemary yields quite a different smelling otto to that grown
in England.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
gaol fever and the gaol distemper were then a natural result
of being immured in Newgate ; and to prevent infection
from 'the prisoners at the bar' to the 'worthy judge,' the
practice of distributing rue throughout the court took its rise ;
and its use is maintained even to the present day. Happily,
however, through better discipline, the hygienic properties of
rue are not required ; but its presence there is an illustration
historically worthy of record by some future Macaulay or
Knight. Rue yields up its odoriferous principle or otto by
distillation : its principal use is in the manufacture of
aromatic, toilet, hygienic, and cosmetic vinegars.
Russia Leather. — The persistent and agreeable per-
fume of Russia leather is familiar to many persons. Its
manufacture is a State secret and monopoly of the Govern-
ment ; no solution of the mystery has yet got beyond the
statement that it owes its odour to the otto of birch bark ; but
this cannot be so in the main, since all that can be done with that
substance will not yield the true fragrance of Russia leather.
Failing to produce the odour artificially, so to speak,
from birch or any other bark, it struck me to endeavour to
extract it from the natural body as found in commerce. To
my great gratification I succeeded in obtaining perfect results ;
moral — before art, try nature ! The perfume of Russia
leather suitable for the mouchoir may be prepared thus : Take
Russia leather cuttings, which may be had from most book-
binders, say about half a pound, place them in a wide-
mouthed stoppered bottle together with one gallon of alcohol
60 over proof ; digest for fourteen days, then strain away the
spirit, it will have a dark colour and would stain a white
kerchief To remove the colour filter it through animal
charcoal ; this will remove also some of its odour, but enough
remains ; add to the filtrate one pint of esprit de rose triple,
and it will be ready for sale.
Sage. — A powerful-scenting otto can be procured by dis-
SANTAL.
20I-
tillation from any of the Salvia. It is rarely used, but is
nevertheless very valuable in combination for scenting; soap.
Dried sage leaves, ground, will compound well for sachets.
Santal — {Santalum album).
The santal tree perfumes, when riven,
The axe that laid it low. — Cameron.
This is an old favourite with the lovers of scent ; it is the
wood that possesses the odoiir. The finest santal wood grows
SANTAL WOOD.
in the island of Timor, and the Santal Wood Islands, where
it is extensively cultivated for the Chinese market. In the
religious ceremonies of the Brahmins, Hindoos, and Chinese,
santal wood is burned, by way of incense,, to an extent almost
beyond belief. The Santala grew plentifully in China, but
the continued offerings to the numerous images of Boodh
have almost exterminated the plant from the Celestial
Empire; and such is the demand, that Western Australia
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
and Timor supply the Chinese markets. England alone
would consume tenfold the quantity it does were its price
within the range of other perfuming substances. The otto
which exists in the santal wood is readily procured by dis-
tillation ; one hundredweight of good wood will yield about
30 ounces of otto.
Dr. Elliott, who is a resident near Perth, Western Aus-
tralia, informs me that ' any quantity ' of santal wood chips
fit for distilling could there be had, for the timber of the
santal tree is hewn and exported largely for building pur-
poses in the adjacent countries.
The white ant, which is so common in India and China,
eating into every organic matter that it comes across, appears
to have no relish for santal wood ; hence it is frequently
made into caskets, jewel boxes, deed cases, &c. This
quality, together w^th its fragrance, renders it a valuable
article to the cabinet makers of the East.
The otto of santal is remarkably dense, and is above all
others oleaginous in its appearance, and, when good, is of a
dark straw colour. When dissolved in spirit, it enters into
the composition of a great many of the old-fashioned
bouquets, such as ' Marechale ' and others, the formula of
which will be given hereafter. Perfumers thus make what is
called
Extrait de Bois de Santal.
Rectified spirits 7 pints
Esprit de rose i pint
Essential oil, i.e. otto, of santal 3 oz.
All those Extracts, made by dissolving the otto in alcohol,
are nearly white, or at least only slightly tinted by the
colour of the oil used. When a perfumer has to impart a
delicate odeur to a lady's mouckoir, which in some instances
costs ' no end of money,' and which it is an object, at any
price, to retain unsullied, it behoves his reputation to sell an
SASSAFRAS— SPIKENARD. 203
article that will not stain a delicate white fabric. Now, when
a perfume is made in a direct manner from any wood or herb,
as tinctures are made — that is, by infusing the wood in
alcohol — there is obtained, besides the odoriferous substance,
a solution of colouring and extractive matter, which is ex-
ceedingly detrimental to its fragrance, besides Seriously
staining any cambric handkerchief that it may be used upon ;
and for this reason this latter method should never be adopted,
except for use upon silk handkerchiefs.
The odour of santal assimilates well with rose ; and
hence, prior to the cultivation of rose-leaf geranium, it was
used to adulterate otto of roses ; but is now seldom employed
for that purpose.
By a ' phonetic ' error, santal is often printed ' sandal,' and
' sandel.'
The otto of santal is often adulterated with castor oil,
which, being soluble in spirit, is difficult to detect.
Sassafras. — Sassafras is indigenous in North America.
It is imported on the continent in the form of stems or of
boughs as thick as a man's arm. The bark has the colour of
rust, and is more aromatic than the wood. From the wood
and the bark are derived by distillation an otto, heavier than
water, colourless when fresh, but turning yellow after a time.
Some of the perfumers of Germany use a tincture of the
wood of the Laurus Sassafras in the manufacture of hair-
washes and other nostrums ; but as, in our opinion, it has
rather a ' physicky ' smell than flowery, we cannot recommend
the German recipes. The Eau athMenne, notwithstanding,
has some reputation as a hair-water, but is little else than a
weak tincture of sassafras.
Spike. — French oil of lavender, which is procured from
the Lavandula Spica, is generally called oil of spike. (See
Lavender.)
Spikenard (Nardostachys Jatamansi).— This odoriferous
204
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
plant belongs to the Valerian order ; and, although its fra-
grance is generally considered unpleasant to European nostrils,
it is so much admired by Eastern natives that some of the
most esteemed Asiatic perfumes are composed of valerian
and spikenard. The fragrance of spikenard is frequently men-
tioned in the Holy Volume. ' While the king sitteth at his
table, my spikenard sendeth forth the smell thereof.' — Song
SPIKENARD.
of Solom. i. 1 2. ' There came a woman having an alabaster box
of ointment of spikenard very precious.' — Mark xiv. 3. It is
nevertheless almost unknown to English and French perfumers.
The Celtic nard, Valeriana celtica, grows on the mountains
of Switzerland and the Tyrol. In commerce it is in round
or flat packets, mixed with moss and gritty earth. Its
flavour is bitter, and its smell resembles that of valerian.
STORAX.
205
Another species of Indian nard, the nard of the Ganges of
Dioscorides, is attributed to the Nardostachys grandiflora
(D. C), Fedia grandiflora (Wall.). Lastly, the false nard of
Dauphiny is the bulb of the Victoriale longue of Clestius,
Allium anguinum of Mathiole de Bauhin.
StoraX. — Priests and perfumers are very much indebted
to that family of plants termed by botanists Styracecz : from
on€ and another of this family vast quantities of odoriferous
gums and balsams are procured, which are used for altar
incense and for perfuming private dwellings. In commerce
there are several kinds of storax : the hard red quality is
termed Jews' incense ; the Calamita storax is so named from
the Latin calami (rushes or quills), in reference to its form in
2o6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the market. The true storax, however, to which we now refer,
is a fragrant balsam which exudes from the wounded Liquid-
ambar orientale, a shrubby tree common in Asia Minor.
Extraction of the Liquid Storax. — In June and July,, the outer
bark is stripped off on one ^de of the tree, and (according to Lieutenant
Campbell) made into bundles and reserved for the purpose of fumigation.
The inner bark is then scraped off with a semicircular or sickle-shaped
knife, and thrown into pits until a sufficient quantity has been collected.
Mr. Maltass states that it is then packed into strong horsehair bags, and
subjected to pressure in a wooden lever press. Upon removal from the
press, hot water is thrown over the bags, and they are pressed a second
time, after which the greater portion of the resin will have been extracted.
Lieutenant Campbell's account is a little different : he says the mner
bark is boiled in water over a brisk fire, upon which the resinous part
comes to the surface, and is skimmed off. The boiled bark is next put
into hair sacks and prefesed, boiling water being added to assist in the
extraction of the resin, or, as it is termed, yagh {i.e. oil).
Dr. McCraith says that the storax collectors, who are chiefly a tribe
of wandering Turcomans called Yuruks, are armed with a triangular
iron scraper, with which they scrape off, together with the juice of the
tree, a certain quantity of bark, which they collect in leathern pouches
suspended to their belts. When a sufficient quantity has been obtained,
it is boiled in a large copper, and the separated liquid resin is run into
barrels. The residual bark is placed in hair-cloth and pressed in a rude
press, the extracted resin being added to the general mass.
The product obtained by the processes here described, is the grey,
opaque, semi-fluid resin, well known as liquid storax.
The bark from which the liquid storax has been extracted, is emptied
out of the bags and exposed in the sun to dry, after which it is shipped to
the Greek and Turkish islands, and to many towns in Turkey, where it is
much esteemed for the purpose of fumigation, although, since the dis-
appearance of the plague, its employment has greatly diminished.
Lieutenant Campbell states that the quantity of liquid storax annually
extracted, amounts to about 20,000 okas (500 cwt.) from the districts of
Giova and UUk; and 13,000 okes (325 cwt.) from those of Marmorizza
and Isgengak.
It is exported in casks to Constantinople, Smyrna, Syria, and Alexan-
dria. Some is alsp packed with a certain proportion of water in goat-
skins, and sent, either by boats or overland, to Smyrna, where it is
transferred to casks and shipped mostly to Trieste.'
' D. Hanbuiy.
S TO RAX. 207
The odour of storax is the uniting link between— as the
late lamented Professor Johnston distinguished them — 'the
smells we dislike ' and the ' odours we enjoy ; ' it connects the
fragrance of the jonquille with the stench of coal-tar naphtha ;
the smell of this latter substance has become familiar, since
it is used to dissolve gutta percha, and is commonly known
as ' solution.' Now the smell of this naphtha certainly ranks
with those ' we dislike ; ' yet storax, when in bulk, resembles
it, ' to a smell ; ' but, when divided into such an attenuated
form as we conceive odours to be given out by living plants,
then storax resembles the exquisite fragrance of the jonquille
and tubereuse ! So the whirlwind and hurricane become the
gentle zephyr that makes the ' aspens quiver.' So the fire^
proof block of iron becomes, when divided, more combustible
than gunpowder. So the silken fibre becomes a rope to stay
the course of a ship. So the lightning flash becomes the
electricity which makes one's ' hair stand on end.' Quantity
is equivalent to an allotropic condition of matter ; quantity
produces opposite physical effects upon the faculties. About
an ounce of storax dissolved in one pint of rectified spirit
produces the TINCTURE OF Storax of the perfumer's labor-
atory. Its principal use is to give permanence of odour to
analogous fragrances that are prepared by maceration : thus
extract of tubereuse or jonquille, procured by infusing the
tubereuse pomade in spirit, requires for every pint about one
ounce of tincture of storax to be added as a ' fixing ' to the
handkerchief It is also useful, in combination with other
scents, to imitate certain odours of plants : thus it is found in
lily of the valley, &c.
Storax and Tolu are used in perfumery in the same
way as benzoin, namely, by solution in spirit as a tincture.
An ounce of tincture of storax, tolu, or benzoin, being added
to a pound of any very volatile perfume, gives a degree of
permanence to it, and makes it last longer on the handkerchief
2o8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
than it otherwise would : thus, when any perfume is made by
the solution of an otto in spirit, it is usual to add to it a small
portion of a substance which is less volatile, such as extract of
musk, extract of vanilla, ambergris, storax, tolu, orris, vitivert,
or benzoin ; the manufacturer using his judgment and discre-
tion as to which of these materials is to be employed, choos-
ing, of course, that which is most compatible and in harmony
with the odour he is making. This can be ascertained by refer-
ence to the Gamut. Every octave is in harmony.
The power which these bodies have of ' fixing ' a volatile
substance, renders them valuable to the perfumer, indepen-
dent of their aroma, which is due in many ca.ses to benzoic and
cinnamic acids, slightly modified by an otto peculiar to each
substance, and which is taken up by the alcohol, together
with a portion of resin. When the perfume is put upon a
handkerchief, the most volatile bodies disappear first : thus,
after the alcohol has evaporated, the odour of the ottos
appears stronger ; if it contains any resinous body, the ottos
are held in solution, as it were, by the resin, and thus retained
on the fabric. Supposing a perfume to be made of ottos only,
without any ' fixing ' substance, then, as the perfume ' dies
away,' the olfactory nerve, if tutored, will detect its composi-
tion, for it spontaneously analyses itself, no two ottos having
the same volatility : thus, make a mixture of rose, jasmine,
and patchouly ; the jasmine predominates first, then the rose,
and, lastly, the patchouly, which will be found hours after the
others have disappeared.
SUMBUL, SUNBAL, or Sambola. — Under these names there
has recently been introduced in commerce a root, about the
size of beetroot, presenting at the top distinct shoots, and at
the bottom several large radicles. It is most frequently cut
into small pieces, is covered with a grey epidermis, and shows
on the narrowing part rough bristles caused by the destruc-
tion of scales originating in the radical shoots. This root.
SYRINGA—TOiXQUIN. 209
which is white inside, rapidly falls a prey to insects. On its sur-
face appears an adipose, resinous substance which has exuded
from it. It gives a very strong musk -like odour, mixed with
odour of angelica. It is supposed to be a product of one of the
umbelliferce akin to angelica. It reaches us from Asia by way of
Russia. It is less employed in perfumery in France than in
Russia, where it is in great vogue on account of its cheapness.
Syringa. — The flowers of the Philadelphus coronarius, or
common garden syringa, have an intense odour resembling
the orange blossom : so much so, that the plant is often
termed Mock Orange. A great deal of the pomatum sold as
pomade surfin, k la fleur d'orange, by the manufacturers of
France, is nothing more than fine suet perfumed with syringa
blossoms by the maceration process. Fine syringa pomade
could be made in England's Colonies at a quarter the cost of
what is paid for the so-called orange pomatum.
Thyme. — All the different species of thyme, bul more
particularly the lemon thyme, the Thymus Serpyllum, as well
as the marjorams, origanum, &c., yield by distillation fragrant
ottos, that are extensively used by manufacturing perfumers
for scenting soaps ; though well adapted for this purpose,
they do not answer at all in any other combinations. Both
in grease and in spirit all these ottos impart a herby smell
(very naturally) rather than a flowery one, and, as a conse-
quence, they are not considered rechercy.
When any of these herbs are dried and ground, they use-
fully enter into the composition of sachet powders.
ToLU. (See Balsams.)
TONQUIN, or Tonka. — The seeds of the Dipterix odorata
are the tonquin or coumarouma beans of commerce. When
fresh they are exceedingly fragrant, having an intense odour
of newly made hay. Considerable interest attaches to the
plant represented in the accompanying illustration — the Ton-
quin or tonga bean (Dipterix odorata) — inasmuch as it is
p
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
one of only eight species included in the genus, all of which
are large forest trees of Brazil, Guiana, and the Mosquito
coast. The genus is also remarkable for being one of the
few belonging to the natural Order Leguminosece, that have
drupaceous or single-seeded, indehiscent pods. The tonquin
tree acquires in the forests of British Guiana an average
height of about 6o ft. It has alternate leaves composed of
from five to seven alternate leaflets. The flowers are borne
in racemose panicles, and the fruit, as will be seen, is of a
somewhat oval form, consisting of a thick fleshy substance
which becomes when mature of a hard, woody character, and
DIPTERIX ODORATA.
TONQUIN BEAN, NATURAL SIZE.
encloses a long, almond-shaped, shining black seed. This
seed has a powerful odour, resembling that of newly mown
hay. At one time, when snuff-taking was much more general
than at present, a tonquin bean was generally kept in the
snuff-box for the sake of the agreeable fragrance which it im-
parted to the snuff. Now, however, the uses of tonquin
beans are mostly confined to the preparation of perfumes
either for fluid extracts for handkerchiefs or for sachet
powders. They are often, moreover, to be seen in hosiers'
shops, where they are sold for placing in drawers with linen.
For these purposes they are imported into this country to
TONQUIN.
the extent of a few hundredweights per annum. The Creoles
fully appreciate the fragrance of these seeds, and make use of
them not only for their perfume, but also for putting in chests
or drawers for the purpose, they say, of driving away insects.
A closely-allied species of Diptet ix, namely, D. eboensis, a
native of the Mosquito country, bears a fruit and seed almost
identical in appearance with those oiD. odorata. It has, how-
ever, no perfume, but contains a quantity of thick oil or fat,
TONQUIN BEAN IN POD.
which is extracted by the natives, and used as a hair oil. It
was at one time said that this oil formed the basis of a much
advertised hair restorer, known as ' Balm of Columbia,' but of
this I am unable to give any opinion. With regard to culti-
vation, the species of Dipterix are said to grow best in a
loamy soil. They are easily raised from ripened cuttings
planted in sand, with a good moist heat, and covered with a
hand glass.'
. ' J. R. in The Garden.
p 2
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The Anthoxanthum odoratum, or sweet-smelling vernal
grass, to which new hay owes its odour, probably yields
identically the same fragrant principle ; and it is remarkable
that both tonquin beans and vernal grass, while actually
growing, are nearly scentless, but become rapidly aromatic
when severed from the parent stock.
Chemically considered, tonquin beans are very interesting,
containing, when fresh, a fragrant volatile otto (to which
their odour is principally due), a fat oil, and a neutral
principle — Coumarin. In perfumery they are valuable, as,
when ground, they form with other bodies an excellent and
permanent sachet, and, by infusion in spirit, the tincture
or extract of tonquin enters into a thousand of the com-
pound essences ; but on account of its great strength it
must be used with caution, otherwise people say the perfume
is ' snuffy ' owing to the predominance of the odour and its
w,ell-known use in the boxes of those who indulge in the
titillating dust.
Extract of Tongtttn Bean.
Tonquin beans i lb.
Rectified spirit ... . . . i gallon
Digest for a month at a summer heat. Even after this
maceration they are still useful when dried and ground in
those compounds known as POT-POURRI, Olla Podrida,
&c. The extract of tonquin, like extract of orris, and extract
of vanilla, is never sold pure, but is only used in the manufac-
ture of compound perfumes. It is the leading ingredient in
Bouquet du Champ — the Field Bouquet— the great resemblance
of which to the odour of the hay-field renders it a favourite
to the lovers of the pastoral.
Coumarin, CH^O*, exists in several plants, amongst
which may be named the sweet vernal grass, Anthoxanthum
odoratum, the melilot, the sweet woodroffe, &c. Some authors
TUBEREUSE. 213
have confounded it with benzoic acid ; but, contrary to what
has been asserted, the tonka bean does not contain this
acid. Coumarin is white, it melts at 68°, and boils at 270°.
It has a pleasant odour, is more easily soluble in warm water
than in cold, and crystallises in straight rectangular prisms.
Among the plants with the odour of tonka beans, in
which coumarin has been shown to be present, we may also
mention Orchis fusca. Lallemant, a druggist at Algiers, sent
to the French and Spanish exhibition in 1864, under the
name of Orchis anthropophora, some leaves possessing a strong
tonka bean odour. These might certainly be utilised in
perfumery. But, as the plant is scentless with us, perhaps it
has been confounded with Orchis fusca.
Some of the plants, such as vernal grass and woodroffe, have
no odour when freshly gathered, but the scent is developed
as the plants dry ; this ordinary observers must have noticed
in the hay-field, for good hay always contains vernal grass.
TUBEREUSE {Polianthes tuberosd). — One of the most ex-
quisite odours with which we are acquainted is obtained by
enfleurage from the tubereuse flower. It is, as it were, a nose-
gay in itself, and reminds one of that delightful perfume
observed in a well-stocked flower-garden at evening close;
consequently it is much in demand by the perfumers for
compounding sweet essences. It requires three kilogrammes
of flowers to perfume one kilogramme of grease, and the value
of the flowers is about five francs the kilo.
The tubereuse needs more care than any other flower of the farm.
It is the most difficult to rear, but the best worth rearing. The tubereuse
requires a moist soil, or to be so planted that it can be freely irrigated.
It is a bulbous plant, and propagates as they do ; it throws out a stem
like a hyacinth, covered with fleshy flowers. The bulbs are planted from
nine to twelve inches apart in rows twenty-four inches apart ; and a
good plantation in a suitable soil will last from seven to eight years.
And oh, what a fragrance breathes from it ! what a bouquet, snatching
perfumes from every flower with a superb eclecticism !
214
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The tuberose, with her silv'ry light,
That in the garden of Malay
Is called the mistress of the night,
So like a bride, scented and bright.
She comes out when the sun's away. — MoORE.
This last line of the poet's refers to the marked exhalation of odour
after sundown ; very many flowers have not only a special time of open-
ing their blossoms, but a particular time when-
they breathe fragrance, as observed : the
jasmine is more fragrant in August than it
is in July and September.^
The enfleurage laboratory is al-
ways kept dark, an artificial induce-
ment (may I say ?) for the blossoms
to ' work hard.'
Extract of Tuber euse.
Eight pounds of No. 24 tubereuse
pomatum, cut up very fine, is to be
placed into one gallon of the best rec-
tified spirit. After standing for three
weeks or a month at summer heat,
and with frequent agitation, it is fit to
draw off, and, being strained through
cotton wool, is ready either for sale
or use in the manufacture of bouquets.
This essence of tubereuse, like that
of jasmine, is exceedingly volatile,
and, if sold in its pure state, quickly ' flies off' the handker-
chief; it is therefore necessary to add some fixing ingredient,
and for this purpose it is best to use one ounce of tincture of
storax, or half an ounce of extract of vanilla, to every pint
of tubereuse.
Vanilla. — The pod or bean of the Vanilla planifolia and
' From my Lectures before the Horticultural Society oil Flower Farming.
TUBEREUSE.
VANILLA.
215
aromatica, Swartes, Epidendrum Vanilla, L., yields a perfume
of rare excellence. When good, and if kept for some time, it
becomes covered with an efflorescence of needle crystals, pos-
sessing properties similar to benzoic acid, but differing from it
in composition : these crystals may be sublimed by heat of
sand bath. Few objects are more beautiful to look upon than
this, when viewed by a microscope with the aid of polarised
light. The finest vanilla is grown in Mexico : the pods or
beans are about eight and a half inches long.
An inferior quality, the produce of Central America, is
often lotted at the drug sales in London. Of this kind, the
VANILLA PLANT.
beans are not more than four inches long, and are more
pulpy than the true Mexican variety.
In the French markets an inferior kind is frequently on
sale, called vanillon. It comes from South America. The
pods are larger and the odour, quite different, somewhat
resembling heliotrope.
The cultivation of vanilla, introduced some years ago in
the island of La Reunion, has been very successful, and the
price has been reduced. In quality, however, the article is
not equal to the Mexican vanilla.
Of all orchids this climbing epiphytal one is the most
valuable from a commercial point of view, on account of its
2 [6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
scent-yielding fruit. There are several species of vanilla
which yield beans or pods more or less fragrant ; and of these
some five kinds are common in our English markets, the
value of which varies from \os. to Soj. per lb. The genus
Vanilla is indigenous to Peru, Brazil, and Mexico, and some
of the species have been successfully cultivated in the West
Indian Islands, Ceylon, and the Mauritius. From the last-
named wonderfully fine specimens were sent to our Inter-
national Exhibition of 1862, for which the jurors awarded a
gold medal. There is no reason why the culture of vanilla
should not be extended into some of our warmer colonies.
BUNDLE OF VANILLA AS IMPORTED.
such as Western Australia and Queensland. Its propagation
is by no means difficult. V. planifolia climbs up the tallest
trees, and its main stock becomes as woody and hard as that of
the vine : the root sends up many offsets, which may be
separated, and in that way the plant may be increased.
Cuttings of the last growths, 2ft. or 3ft. in length, may also
be made and rooted successfully. The vanilla will produce
saleable pods the third or fourth year after propagation, and
they may then be gathered annually, in September, in in-
creasing quantities for thirty or even forty years. Therefore
he who plants a vanilla forest leaves his son a valuable
heritage. Two good specimens of the plant may be seen in
the Orchid House at Kew, and it is also grown plentifully at
Syon.
When the pods are gathered, which should be done before
they are quite ripe, it is most important that they be properly
VANILLA. 217
cured, otherwise they rapidly become mouldy and lose their
scent. Parcels in this condition may often be found at the
Mincing Lane drug auctions. The curing of the pods is best
effected by drying them in a moderate heat, pressing them
with the thumb and finger from end to end, and then
brushing them over with an oil that does not itself become
rancid, such as that of cocoa or cashew nut. It is at the
apex of the pod that the mouldy parasite first appears ; the
pods then quickly become soft and flabby or dry and chippy.
On the other hand, when vanilla pods are in good condition
they become covered with an efflorescence of needle-like
crystals of vanillic acid. The interior of the bean is then
soft, unctuous, and balsamic.
In order to obtain the perfume or essence, ■§■ lb. of such
pods are cut up small, and put into one gallon of pure alcohol,
of a strength known as 60° over proof, giving the whole a
shake up daily. The ingredients must remain together for,
say, four weeks, at which time all that is worth extracting will
be found in the spirit, which may then be strained off quite
clear and bright. It is then suitable as a flavouring agent, or
when blended with other scents it makes delicious perfumery.
Those sold under the titles of Clematis, Heliotrope, Wall-
flower, &c., mostly contain about one-half in bulk of vanilla
extract. About two centuries ago vanilla may be said to
have been unknown in this country ; it is, however, stated
that Morgan, an apothecary, showed to Queen Elizabeth a
sample, but he knew nothing more about it than that ' it was
brought from abroad by some Spanish merchants.' At the
present time the total annual average crop of all the varieties
of vanilla from the several countries which produce it may be
estimated at 80,000 lbs., representing a value of not less than
150,000/.
Johnston states that, 'physiologically, the fragrance of
vanilla acts upon the system as an aronutic stimulant, ex-
2i8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
hilarating the mental functions, and increasing generally the
energy of the animal system.' From five to six hundred-
weights of vanilla are annually imported, on an average, into
this country ; from some unknown cause, however, this im-
portation is very irregular, and, as a consequence, the price
varies considerably, from \os. to 8oj. per lb. Our West
Indian colonists should look to this. They are deploring the
loss of commerce, and we are asking for things which they can
produce, and yet no effort is being made by them to supply
European wants. I press this vanilla question on them,
because Europe would consume a hundred times as much
vanilla as it does were the price reduced by an increased
production.
Extract of Vanilla.
Vanilla pods | lb.
Rectified spirit .... i gallon
Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the
interior, then cut them up in lengths of about a quarter of an
inch, macerate with occasional agitation for about a month ; the
tincture thus formed will only require straining through cotton
to be ready for any use that is required. In this state it is rarely
sold for a perfume, but is consumed in the manufacture of com-
pound odours, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called.
Extract of vanilla is also used largely in the manufacture
of hair-washes, which are readily made by mixing the extract
of vanilla with either rose, orange, elder, or rosemary water,
and afterwards filtering.
We need scarcely mention that vanilla is greatly used by
cooks and confectioners for flavouring.
There are three kinds of vanilla known in commerce, two
of which belong to varieties of the same plant, and the third
to a different species. The first. Vanilla leg. or legitimate, of
the Spaniards, is most esteemed. It is often covered with
VERBENA. 219
thin white crystals, and is then said to hefnosted. It is attri-
buted to the Vanilla sativa of Schiede. The second is the
Vanilla simarona or bastard ( V. sylvestris pi Schiede) : it is
shorter and not frosted. The third, called vanillon by the
French, V. pompona or rosa by the Spaniards, is short and
thick. It is attributed to the V. pompona of Schiede.
Bucholaand Vogel p^re were in error in taking the crystals
of vanilla for benzoic acid. M. Gobley believes that it is a
peculiar principle which he names vanilline ; and this, according
to A. Vee, melts at 78°, and in boiling water without being
dissolved. It differs from coumarin, which melts at 68°.
Verbena, or Vervaine. — The scented species of this
plant, the lemon verbena, Aloysia citriodora (Hooker), is only
cultivated, so far as I am aware, by Senor Robillard, of
Valencia. He offers the otto for sale to the trade at 20s. the
pound weight — a fact which indicates that the plant grows
better in Spain than in England, where it will only live out
of doors on walls. It gives one of the finest perfumes with
which we are acquainted ; it is well known as yielding a
delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the
plant ; some of the little vessels or sacs containing the otto
must be crushed in this act, as there is little or no odour by
merely smelling at the plant.
The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by dis-
tillation with water, on account of its high price is scarcely, if
ever, used by the manufacturing perfumer ; but it is most suc-
cessfully imitated by mixing the otto of lemon grass, Andro-
pogon Citrata, with rectified spirit, the odour of which re-
sembles the former to a nicety. The following is a good
form for making the
Extract of Verbena.
Rectified spirit i pint
Otto of lemon-grass ... • • • 3 drachms
„ lemon-peel . . 2 oz.
„ orange-peel . . . . . . ^ oz.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
After standing together for a \&\f hours and then filtering, it
is fit for sale.
Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to
be made from the same plant but of a finer quality, is com-
posed thus ; it is sold under the title of
Extrail dc Verveine.
Rectified spirit
Otto of orange-peel
„ lemon-peel
„ citron-zeste
„ lemon-grass
Extract de fleur d'orange
„ „ tubereuse
Esprit de rose
I pint
1 oz.
2 oz.
I drachm
2^ drachms
7 oz.
7 oz.
ipint
ng, and is one of the
This mixture is exceedingly refreshi:
most elegant perfumes that is made, and, being white, it does
not stain the handkerchief It is best when sold fresh made,
as by age the citrine oils oxidise, and the perfume acquires an
ethereal odour, and then customers say 'it is sour.' The
vervaine thus prepared enters into the composition of a great
many of the favourite bouquets that are sold under the title
Court Bouquet, and others which are mixtures of violet, rose,
and jasmine, with verbena or vervaine in different proportions.
In these preparations, as also in eau de Portugal, and in fact
where any of the citrine ottos are used, a much finer product is
obtained by using grape-spirit or rectified brandy in prefer-
ence to the English corn-spirit as a solvent for them. Nor do
they deteriorate so quickly in French spirit as in English ;
whether this be due to the oil of wine (oenanthic ether) which
the former contains or not we cannot say, but think it must
be so.
Violet.
The forward violet thus did I chide :
' Sweet thief, whence didst thou steal thy sweet that smells,
If not from my love's breath ?— Bard of Avon.
VIOLET. 221
The perfume exhaled by the Viola odorata is so universally
admired, that to speak in its favour would be more than
superfluous. The demand for the ' essence of violets ' is far
greater than the manufacturing perfumers are at present able
to supply, and, as a consequence, it is difficult to procure the
genuine article through the ordinary sources of trade.
Real violet is, however, sold by many of the retail per-
fumers of the West End of London, but at a price that pro-
hibits its use except by the affluent or extravagant votaries of
fashion. The violet farms from whence the flowers are pro-
cured to make this perfume are very extensive at Nice,
Savoy (now France) ; also in the neighbourhood of Florence.
With us the violet grows anywhere, and almost anyhow ; but
the terrible sun of Nice, during July and August, is but ill
borne by the violet. Consequently, on the farms they are
planted under the green shade of the orange and lemon trees,
or close to walls and houses. The method of propagation is
division of the roots. After the young plants are set out and
well rooted, they must have a good dressing of liquid manure,
which should be repeated every year, about two months
before they throw blossoms. If the plants are on a very dry
soil they must be irrigated every fortnight during the summer.
They are planted so as to grow in tufts or clusters about a
foot apart all round ; and this space enables the growers to
gather the flowers without treading on them. The old plants
should be removed every fifth or sixth year, and young roots
substituted. A surface of land, equalling an acre of planting,
yields one hundred and eighty to two hundred pounds weight
of flowers, valued as an average at two francs the pound.
Violets may always be looked upon as an extra crop, growing
as they do under the orange and lemon trees. The kind
grown is the double Parma. About twenty-five tons weight
of violet blossoms are produced annually at Nice. My friend
Mr. Steadman grows sixteen acres of violets at Mitcham Road
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
and Thornton Heath, Surrey ; the whole of the flowers pro-
duced there are sold for button-hole bouquets. The true
smelling principle or otto of violets has recently been isolated
by M. March of Nice, a sample of which is to be seen at the
Laboratory of Flowers, 2 New Bond Street. A very con-
centrated solution in alcohol impresses the olfactory nerve
with the idea of the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is
probably a true impression. Burnett says that the plant Viola
tricolor (heart's-ease), when bruised, smells like peach kernels,
and doubtless, therefore, contains prussic acid.
It has been remarked, also, that persons who have died
from the effects of prussic acid, ' smell like violets.'
The flowers of the heart's-ease are scentless ; but the plant
evidently contains a principle which, in other species of the
viola, is eliminated as the ' sweet that smells,' so beautifully
alluded to by Shakespeare.
For commercial purposes, the odour of the violet is pro-
cured in combination with spirit, oil, or suet, precisely accord-
ing to the methods previously described for obtaining the
aroma of some other flowers before mentioned, such as those
of cassie, jasmine, orange-flower, namely, by maceration, or
by enfleurage ; the former method being principally adopted
first, followed by enfleurage, and, when ' essence ' is required,
digesting the pomade in rectified alcohol.
Good essence of violets, thus made, is of a beautiful green
colour, and, though of a rich deep tint, has no power to stain
a white fabric, and its odour is perfectly natural.
Essence of Violets,
as prepared for retail sale, is thus made, according to the
quality and strength of the pomade:— Take from six to eight
pounds of the violet pomade, chop it up fine, and place it in
one gallon of perfectly clean (free from fusel oil) rectified spirit ;
allow it to digest for three weeks or a month, then strain oflF
VITIVERT. 223
the essence, and to every pint thereof add three ounces of
tincture of orris root, and three ounces of esprit de cassie ; it
is then fit for sale.
On account of the inodorous quality of the English spirit,
the essence of violet made in Britain is very superior to the
continental violet, which always smells of brandy.
We have often seen displayed for sale in druggists' shops
plain tincture of orris root, done up in nice bottles, with labels
upon them inferring the contents to be ' Extract of Violet.'
Customers thus once 'taken in' are not likely to be so a second
time.
A good Imitation Essence of Violets is best prepared
thus : —
Spirituous extract of cassie pomade . . .1 pint
Esprit de rose, from pomade . ■ ■ i pint
Tincture of orris ^ pint
Spirituous extract of tubereuse pomade . . . \ pint
Otto of almonds 3 drops
After filtration it is fit for bottling. In this mixture it is
the extract of cassie which has the leading smell, but, modified
by the rose and tubereuse, it becomes very much like the violet.
Moreover, it has a green colour, like the extract of violet; and
as the eye influences the judgment by the sense of taste, so it
does with the sense of smell. Extract of violet enters largely
into the composition of several of the most popular bouquets,
such as extract of spring flowers and many others.
Violet flowers are worth about 4/. 50^. the kilo, or 2s. per
pound, and it requires 4 kilos of flowers to enflower one kilo
of fat to make the violet pomade. (See Wood Violet.)
VlTiVERT, or Kus-Kus, is the rhizome of an Indian grass
(Andropogon muricatus, Retz). In the neighbourhood of Cal-
cutta, and in that city, this material has an extensive use by
being manufactured into awnings, blinds, and sunshades, called
Tatties. During the hot seasons an attendant sprinkles water
224 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
over them ; this operation cools the apartment by the evapo-
ration of the water, and, at the same time, perfumes the
atmosphere, in a very agreeable manner, with the odoriferous
principle of the vitivert. It has a smell between the aromatic
or spicy odour and that of flowers — if such a distinction can
be admitted. We classify it with orris root — not that it has
any odour resembling it, but because it has a like effect in use
in perfumery, and because it is prepared as a tincture for
obtaining its odour.
About four pounds of the dried vitivert, as it is imported,
being cut small and set to steep in a gallon of rectified spirits
for a fortnight, produces the
Essence of Vitivert of the shops. In this state it is rarely
used as a perfume, although it is occasionally asked for by
those who, perhaps, have learnt to admire its odour by their
previous residence in the 'Eastern clime.' The extract, essence,
or tincture of vitivert enters into the composition of several of
the much-admired and old bouquets manufactured in the early
days of perfumery in England, such as ' Mousseline des Indes,'
for which preparation, M. Delcroix, in the zenith of his fame,
created quite a furor in the fashionable world. M. Delcroix
was a very famous perfumer in his day ; he carried on a large
business at 147 New Bond Street, in the time of George IV.
Essence of vitivert is also made by dissolving 2 oz. of
otto of vitivert in i gallon of spirit ; this preparation is stronger
than the tincture, as above.
Markhale and Bouquet du Roi — perfumes which have also
VOLKAMERIA. 225
' had their day ' — owe much of their peculiarity to the vitivert
contained in them.
Bundles of vitivert are sold for perfuming linen and pre-
venting moth, and, when ground, it is used to manufacture
certain sachet powders.
Otto of vitivert is procurable by distillation ; a hundred-
weight of vitivert yields about 14 oz. of otto, which in appear-
ance very much resembles otto of santal. . I have placed a
sample of it in the museum at Kew.
In India several other andropogons little known are used
for the same purposes as the schcenanthus and vitivert, these
being frequently mistaken for each other. They are the
Andropogon Nardus, (L.) Engl, ginger grass, A. iwarancusa
(Rosch), A. paranciira (Blanc), and A. citratus (D.C.). To the
species iwarancusa must be assigned an Indian root frequently
used instead of vitivert. It is distinguished by its whiteness
and freedom from twists. It has been ascertained by Dr.
Stenhouse that the essences extracted from the Andropogon
muricatus, Nardus, and iwarancusa are identical.
VOLKAMERIA. — An exquisite perfume is sold under this
name, presumed, of course, to be derived from the Volkameria
inermis (Lindley). Whether it has a smell resembling the
flower of that plant we are unable to say. The volkameria
blooms in French gardens ; that chiefly cultivated is the V.
fragrans. Its flowers are clustered in globular tufts and
exhale a delicious odour. It is a native of Java, while the V.
Kcempferi (Willd.) comes from China and Japan. The flowers
of the latter are arranged in panicles and furnished with
bracts.
Imitation Essence of Volkameria.
Esprit de violette i pint
„ tubereuse i pint
„ jasmine \ pint
„ rose J pint
Tincture of musk . . 2 oz.
Q
226 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Wallflower (Chieranthus).
Where the wallflower scents the dewy air. — Burns.
Exquisite as is the odour of this flower, it is not used in per-
fumery, though no doubt it might be, and very successfully
too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To this flower
we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted for
experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country,
our climate being good for its production. The mode of
obtaining its odour has been indicated when we spoke of
Heliotrope and Jasmine. And if it answers on the small
scale, there is little doubt of success in the large way, and
there is no fear but that the scent of the old English wallflower
will meet with a demand. Instigated by this suggestion, made
in the first edition of this work. Miss Procter, of Friskney,
Lincoln, has produced some very good samples of natural
wallflower-pomade.
An imitation essence of wallflower can be compounded
thus : —
Extrait de fleur I'orange i pint
„ vanilk . \ pint
Esprit de rose i pint
Extract of orris . \ pint
„ cassie \ pint
Essential oil of almonds 5 drops
Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks
prior to putting it for sale.
Winter Green {Gaultheria procumbens). — A perfuiping
otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant :
it is principally consumed in the perfuming of soaps.
The essence of winter green combines also with the bases
to form the salts ndimed gaultkerates. Salicylous or spiroylous
acid, or essence of meadow-sweet, or ulmaria {Spirea ulmaria),
is obtained artificially by distilling a mixture of salicine.
ECONOMtCAL SCENTS.
227
bichromate of potash, and sulphuric acid. Its formula is
Ci5H«0^ = C'5H=0«H. (Piria Dumas.)
Upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a
very nice handkerchief perfume is made, called
Iceland Winter Green.
Esprit de rose
I pint
Essence of lavender
J pint
Extract of neroly
ipint
vanilla ....
ipint
„ vitivert
ipint
„ cassia ... . .
ipint
Otto of Gaultheria ... . .
5 minims
ECONOMICAL SCENTS.
As cheap perfumes are often required to fill little fancy
bottles, such as are sold at the bazaars, toy-shops, arcades,
wheels of fortune, and other places, the following recipes
for their manufacture will be found of service : —
I.
Spirit of wine i pint
Essence of bergamot i ounce
IL
Spirit of wine i pint
Otto of santal i ounce
III.
Spirit of wine i pint
Otto of Friench lavender \ ounce
„ bergamot \ ounce
,, cloves . . . .1 drachm
Q 2
228 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
IV.
Spirit of wine .... . . . i pint
Otto of lemon grass .... j ounce
Essence of lemons . . . . Jounce
V.
Spirit of wine . i pint
Otto of petit grain ^ ounce
„ orange-peel i ounce
Nearly all these mixtures will require to be filtered
through blotting paper, with the addition of a little magnesia,
to make them bright. What these scents are to be named, we
must leave to abler nomenclaturists.
The processes described for procuring the odours of
plants are those now in use by the perfumer ; future ages will
doubtless witness many improvements, although the methods
now adopted appear almost perfect. The most marked
invention, as a means of winning the odours, of recent date,
is that of M. Piver, which is very ingenious, and, although
faulty, will probably lead up to something useful and practical.
M. Fiver's may be termed the Pneumatic Process, since it
consists of forcing a current of air into a vessel filled with
fresh flowers, and then passed into a second vessel con-
taining grease, which is kept fluid and in which revolve disc
plates ; the air thus charged with odour from the flowers
passes over the grease, and there yields up its scent. The
apparatus is so contrived that the same air repeatedly passes
through the same vessel.
We may add that in the modification introduced by
M. A. Piver in the process of enjleurage, the fatty bodies are
divided into very fine particles by a vermicular pump so as to
present the largest possible surface to the air ; and that they
PROCESSES FOR EXTRACTING ODOURS. 229
are also confined within a perfectly closed cupboard in which
the air circulates.
By this process a new product has also been obtained, for,
when the air, having passed over the flowers, is received into a
condensing vessel, an intensely odorous water is procured,
having in a remarkable degree the fragrance of the flowers
employed.
M. Millon, a French chemist, some few years past, patented
a process for extracting odours of flowers by means of ether
and sulphide of carbon. He places the flowers in a percolator
and passes the solvent fluid over them ; the liquid which
comes away contains the odorous body, together with a con-
siderable portion of wax ; on distilling the liquid, the odorous
body mixed with the wax remains, being less volatile than
either the sulphide of carbon or ether. These products are
interesting in a chemical sense, but are of little avail at
present to the practical perfumer ; nevertheless perfumes
extracted by Millon's method are sometimes employed in
France.
M. A. Piver, having noticed that in the perfume thus
prepared there is always present the smell of sulphuret of
carbon, suggested its removal by washes in alkalised water.
There are three very distinct stages in the operation.
I . The dissolving of the perfume. 2. Its distillation, at a low
temperature. 3. The evaporation of all vestiges of the solvent.
The solvents employed are ether, chloroform, sulphuret
of carbon, and the light essences of petroleum, well rectified.
The solution is effected in a special apparatus, but always
perfectly closed. The arrangement of the superimposed
cylinders allows the displacement of the saturated solvent by
new liquids. But as the tension of the vapours of the
solvents, invariably too volatile, might obstruct the flow of the
liquid, the suction pump of the displacement apparatus of M.
Berjot of Caen might be advantageously adopted.
230 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The distillation should be effected at a temperature
slightly higher than the boiling point of the solvent ; that is
to say, at 35" to 40° for ether, 45° for the sulphuret of carbon,
and 62° to 68° for chloroform. The vapours must be very
much cooled, and the liquids collected in a cooled receiver with
a small ape'rture for the escape of air.
To get completely rid of every trace of the solvent is a
difficult matter ; and when sulphuret of carbon or the ethers
of petroleum are used, the agreeableness of the perfume is
injured by their bad odour. It is therefore indispensable
to remove the last traces of the solvent. For this purpose
the residuum of distillation is heated in a waterbath within
a closed evaporator, furnished with an agitator ; and it is
also necessary to drive a current of air through the mass, as
M. Piver has proposed. Isolated in this manner, the aroma
or perfume of the flowers is yielded in the utmost purity
and with all their sweetness. According to M. Piver, one
hectare of land planted with heliotrope has yielded a quantity
of flowers sufficient, when treated by Millon's method, to
produce six kilogrammes of perfume, value 3,000 francs.
Four grammes of this perfume suffice for scenting one kilo-
gramme of pomade. For industrial purposes, only the
sulphuret of carbon and the ethers of petroleum are available
for the extraction of perfumes.
We have now described all the important odoriferous
bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer, as
derived from the botanic kingdom ; it may be understood,
that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, it has no
qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the
methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or
oil, are analogous to those that have been already noticed —
that is, by the processes of
COMMERCIAL ELEMENTS OF PERFUMERY. 231
Maceration, absorption, or enfleurage for flowers,
By tincturation for roots, and
By distillation for seeds,
modified under certain circumstances.
There are, however, four other important derivative odours
— ambergris, civet, castor, and musk — which, being from the
animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odours,
in order, it is considered, to render the whole matter easier
for reference to manufacturers who may refer to them.
Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in
the order we have laid down, may also come in here without
much criticism, being considered as primitive odours.
On terminating our remarks relating to the simple pre-
parations of the odours of plants, and before we speak of
perfumes of an animal origin, or of those compound odours
sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may probably be interest-
ing to give a few facts a;nd statistics showing the consumption,
in England, of the several substances previously named.
The Commercial Elements of Perfumery.
QuantUies of Essential Oils or Ottos, paying \s. per pound Duty, entered
for Home Consumption in the year 1852.
lbs.
Otto of bergamot 28,574
„ caraway 3)6o2
„ cassia 6,163
„ cloves • ■ • 595
„ lavender 12,776
„ lemon 67,348
„ peppermint ... ... 16,059
„ roses 1,268
„ spearmint 163
„ thyme 11,418
„ lemon grass . . . . ]
„ citronella I . . . 47.38o
And other ottos not otherwise described j
Total essential oils, or ottos, imported in one year . 195,346
232 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
at the duty of \s. per pound, yield a revenue annually of
%y66l. i6s.
It would appear by the above return that our consumption
of otto of cloves was exceedingly small, whereas it is probably
ten times that amount. The fact is, several of the English
wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto, leaving
little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign
distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of caraway ; the English
production of that article is quite equal to the foreign ; also,
otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably to
the extent of 6,oco lbs. annually.
There were also passed through the Custom House for
home consumption, in 1852 —
Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c.,
commonly called ' French pomatums,' average value
6j. per pound, and paying a duty of i.r. per pound,
valued by the importers at .£i)3o6
Perfumery not otherwise described ; value . . . 1,920
Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of |
ij. each^ |i9.-777
Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England,
say 20,000 flacons at %d. = 8,000/. annually.
The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon
this low scale of duties, from the substances with which
' Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief,' cannot be
estimated at less than 40,000/. per annum. This, of course,
includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manu-
facture of perfumery. Previously to 1832, the duty on musk
in England was 5j. an ounce; in 1842, the duty of 6</. an
ounce produced 53/., showing that 2,120 ounces had been
entered for consumption. In 1846 it was declared free of
duty. The import now, 1856, is over 3,000 ounces.
Levying an excise duty upon odorous substances is not
' The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last tariff, id. per
flacon of 4 oz., or 20s. per gallon.
IMPORTS OF PEtiFUMERY.
233
peculiar to England, for it was practised during the Roman
Empire. Gibbon says : ' There is still extant a long but
imperfect catalogue of Eastern commodities, which, about the
time of Alexander Severus, were subject to the payment of
duties — cinnamon, myrrh, and a whole tribe of aromatics.'
In order ' to lay before my readers the commercial
statistics of imports and exports of the various matters
relating to perfumery up to the latest date, I make the follow-
ing extracts from the Blue Book.
' A Statement of Trade and Navigation for the year i860,
laid before both Houses of Parliament by command of Her
Majesty.'
Statement of the Imports of Perfumery and Odorous Substances into
Great Britain, i860. .
Articles
Ambergris
Balsam of Tolu
„ Storax, Peru, and others ..
„ Camphor, about an eighth
part used by perfumers,
the rest by druggists
Civet (1857).
Enflowered oils and ottos, from France
Ottos from Sardinian territories .
„ Two Sicilies, nearly all ber-
gamot and lemon .
„ Turkey, nearly all otto of
rose
China and neighbouring Is-
lands, nearly all cassia,
nutmeg, anise, cloves, and
other spice, patchonly,
verbena, &c. .
„ United States : peppermint,
winter green, &c., and
Eastern produce
„ East Indies, Ceylon, &c. :
citronel'la, lemon grass,
spice, geranium
Not enumerated from other places
Weight Imported
Cohiputed
Value
356 OZ.
1,975 lbs.
202 lbs.
.^640
375
23
1,668 cwt.
1,476 oz.
58,193 lbs.
6,227 lbs.
11,359
1,100
43,286
3,748
<i5
128,809 lbs.
57,054
1,567 lbs.
15,89s
<
96,244 lbs.
5-3,506
37,306 lbs.
18,484
30,648 lbs.
15,853 lbs.
27,731
5,033
234
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Articles
Weight Imported
Computed
Value.
Elder flower water ....
4,073 lbs.
.£^204
Lavender flowers
8,491 lbs.
98
Leaves of roses
5,707 lbs.
856
Musk .......
6,017 oz.
8,184
Myrrh : about a quarter of this quantity
used by perfumers ....
280 cwt.
1,960
OUbanum, principally used as incense
in Catholic chapels, &c. .
3,057 cwt.
6.936
Orange flower water : about a quarter
of this is used by confectioners, the
<o
remainder by perfumers .
30,131 lbs.
628
' <i3
Orris root
437 cwt.
656
>>.
Enflowered pomatum ....
19,325 lbs.
1,451
s
•,T3
Rose water
43,441 lbs.
632
Vanilla ; about half this is used in
<
perfumery, the remainder in confec-
tionery
6,132 lbs.
11,910
18,455 lbs.
1,843
Naples shaving soap ....
784 lbs.
42
Crfeme d'Amande
28,904 lbs.
136
Hungary water and eau de Cologne
shipped from Holland
7,845 bott.
328
„ „ Belgium
2,090 bott.
89
„ „ France
3,580 bott.
149
„ „ other ports .
Total value of perfumery imported
430 bott.
14
.£274,350
The average importation of musk, per
annum, for the past five years, is .
The export „ „
9,388 oz.
1,578 oz.
.£10,688
2,143
Leaving for home consumption every year 7,810 oz. .£8,545
Average importation per
annum, for the past-
five years
About half the vanilla imported is exported to our colonies
and America, the other half being consumed at home.
But very little of the other articles named are exported.
Otto of rose
1,117 oz.
;£i3,56i
Vanilla .
3,525 lbs.
12,568
Ambergris .
225 oz.
225
Civet .
355 oz.
300
Orris root
420 cwt.
INVOICE VALUE OF ENGLISH PERFUMERY. 235
Invoice Value of English Manufactured Perfumery
Exported in 1 860 : —
Mostly undervalued in order to evade the tariff of several
ports.
To Russia ^2,534
Hamburg 3)522
Holland 1,188
Belgium .... .... 1,539
France .... .... 2,018
Egypt 2,050
China Ij6s6
Hong-Kong 2,753
Porto-Rico .... ...
United States ... .... 6,018
Brazil ......... 2,316
British Possessions in South Africa . . . 4,272
Mauritius ij552
British East Indies 20,861
Australia 10,415
Canada 2,655
West Indies and British Guiana .... 7,294
Other Countries 131831
;£86,464
These returns are known to be very imperfect, and would
be more correctly represented as a total of 186,000/. !
All these figures, I regret to say, are now twenty years
old ; but the difficulty of obtaining information from the
authorities as to exports and imports of perfumery is the
only apology that I can offer for this deficiency. The per-
fumery trade has been no exception to other trades, which
have increased something like three or four to one during
this period.
236 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION VI.
PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.
IN the previous articles we have only spoken of the odours
of plants ; we now enter upon those materials of an
animal origin used in perfumery. The first under our notice
is —
Ambergris. — This substance is found in the sea, floating
near the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar ; also
on the coasts of America, Brazil, China, Japan, and the
Coromandel. The western coast of Ireland is often found to
yield large pieces of this substance. The shores of the
counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the Isle of Arran are
the principal places where it has been found. In the ' Philo-
sophical Transactions ' there is an account of a lump found
on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 169 1,
which weighed 52 oz., and was bought on the spot for 20/.,
but which afterwards was sold in London for more than 1 00/.
(' Philos. Trans.,' No. 227, p. 509). We are quite within limit
in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of amber-
gris have been written, but the question respecting it is still
at issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious
fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, every-
thing they happen to meet with. It has been particularly
found in the intestines of the spermaceti whale, and most
AMBERGRIS.
237
commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the cause
or effect of disease.
•Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider
it to be of vegetable production, and analogous to amber ;
hence its name zxrCa^r-gris (grey) grey amber. It is not,
however, within the province of this work to discuss the
various theories about its production, which could probably
be satisfactorily explained if our modern appliances were
brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to any
scientific enthusiast, — all recent authors who mention it.
SPERM OR AMBERGRIS WHALE.
merely quoting the facts known more than a century ago,
nay more, for in the sixth voyage of Sindbad the Sailor, he
says : —
Instead of taking my way to the Persian Gulf, I travelled once more
through several provinces of Persia and the Indies, and arrived at a sea-
port, where I embarked on board a ship, the captain of which was
resolved on a long voyage.
Shortly afterwards they were wrecked, and then, describing
the place, Sindbad says : —
Here is also a fountain of pitch and bitumen, that runs into the sea,
238 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
which the fishes swallow, and then vomit it up again, turned into
ambergris!^
Captain Buckland considers ambergris to be nothing more
or less than the faeces of the whale, and from numerous
observations of ambergris I think I can inductively substan-
tiate this fact.
It is known that the ambergris whale feeds upon the
cuttle fish. The snout of this creature is armed with a sharp-
pointed curved black horn, exceedingly hard, tough, and
indestructible. It is here represented, and resembles a bird's
beak. It will be observed, however, that the lower mandible
is the largest, being the reverse to that of a parrot.
On breaking up good specimens of ambergris I invariably
find perfect specimens of this beak, which appear to have
escaped or to be incapable of digestion, and are thus excreted
together with biliary matter.
It is said by Dr. Ure that the Chinese try the genuine-
ness of ambergris by scraping it fine upon boiling tea : it
should dissolve, and diffuse itself generally. Dr. Thuddicum
is at work on ambergris ; we may expect therefore shortly to
be in possession of all the chemical qualities of this curious
substance.
A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says : ' it
' No doubt the writer was wrecked somewhere on the coast of the province of
Pegu, near Rangoon, where there are natural petroleum springs to this day ; and it
is something to say of science that in our time teautiful white wax-like, or true
paraffin, candles are made from this Rangoontar, but which, in Sindbad's time,
' was swallowed by fishes and turned into ambergrs 1 '
AMBERGRIS. 239
smells like dried cow-dung.' Never having smelled this
substance, we cannot say whether the simile be correct ; but
we certainly consider that its perfume is most incredibly
overrated ; nor can we forget that Romberg found that ' a
vessel in which he had made a long digestion of the human
faeces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of amber-
gris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a great
quantity of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The
perfume (odour ?) was so strong that the vessel was obliged
to be moved out of the laboratory.' (Mem. Acad. Paris, 171 1.)
Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a per-
fume, in deference to those who admire its odour, we presume
that it has to many an agreeable smell.
Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition)
and possessing little volatility, it, when mixed with other
very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them on the hand-
kerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much.
Essence of Ambergris.
Spirit I gallon
Ambergris 3 oz.
Let it stand for a month.
It is only kept for mixing ; when retailed, it has to be
sweetened up to the public nose ; it is then called, after the
Parisian name,
Extrait d'Ambre.
Esprit de rose triple • i pint
Extract of ambergris i pint
Essence of musk J pint
Extract of vanilla 2 oz.
This perfume has such a lasting odour, that a handker-
chief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odour
even after it has been washed.
The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a
240
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and,
not being soluble in weak alkaline leys, is still found upon
the material after passing through the lavoratory ordeal.
Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of casso-
lettes — little ivory or bone boxes perforated — which are
made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to
carry in the pocket or reticule ; also in the making of pcau
d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing-paper
and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.
After the numerous hypotheses which have been formed
as to the origin of ambergris, it is now admitted to be a kind
of intestinal calculus ejected by the whale, Physeter macro-
cephalus, a cetacean mammifer, M. Guibourt has shown that
the amber takes a pleasant odour on oxidation in contact
with the air. By its nature it ranks at once with biliary
calculi.
Castor. — This is a secretion of the
Castor Fiber, or Beaver, very similar in
many of its characters to civet, though
in odour quite dissimilar. So long as
perfumers can obtain musk or civet,
they are not likely to employ castor;
but, nevertheless, it has qualities that
recommend it in some instances, espe-
cially on the scoi-e of economy.
Castor is imported from Canada
and the territories of the Hudson's Bay
Company. It is contained in small
pear-shaped membranous sacs, gene-
rally hard and brittle in this country,
but is said to be soft and pasty when
taken from the animal. The sketch illustrates the castor
pods a quarter natural size.
In a dry state castor has but little odour, in this respect
CASTOR PODS.
CASTOR.
241
resembling ambergris's, but when infused in spirit its scent is
developed in a remarkable degree.
Two ounces of castor in one gallon of spirit will make a
standard extract ; but, like musk and civet, if more than a
quarter of a pint of this extract be mixed with a gallon of
any other scent, its characteristic odour becomes evident
above the others. Perfumes containing it last well on the
handkerchief, but there are very few persons who consider it
nice.
The largest beavers measure in length, from the snout to
CASTOR BEAVER.
the end of the tail, about i metre to i m. 30 c , and in
size about the chest 30 to 40 centim. They are distinguished
by the form of the head, which is as broad as it is long. In
each jaw are ten teeth — two incisors in front and four molars
on each side. The lower incisors are longer than the
upper. They are yellow outside and white within : their
upper extremity is sharp and bevelled, the molars are flat at
top. The breasts are four in number ; two near the throat,
and two near the chest. The skin is covered with hair of two
kinds — one short, grey, fine and very thick ; the other brown
and strong. Each paw has five fingers ; those of the fore
R
242 THE ART -OF PERFUMERY.
paws are free, those of the hind are palmate. The tail is
covered with scales.
The bags of castoreum are found on the female beavers.
It is not true that the animal cuts or bites them off when
pursued by hunters. For the bags are sheathed, not
pendant, and are out of the animal's reach.
In Canada, as in Siberia, the beavers live in solitary pairs,
in burrows excavated in the banks of rivers ; but in winter
they assemble in large bands and construct with fallen trees,
branches, stones, and earth, dikes across rivers, and very sub-
stantial dwelling-places. They are hunted in winter because
their fur is then most sought after.
In commerce two kinds of castoreum are known, differing
not only in respect to the form and size of the bags, but also
as to their chemical constitution and the nature of the
perfume.
Civet. — This substance is secreted by the Viverra Civetta,
or civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular
receptacle between the anus and the pudendum of the
creature. Like many other substances of Oriental origin, it
was first brought to this country by the Dutch.
The Dutch used to keep numbers of civets alive at
Amsterdam, for the purpose of collecting the perfume when
secreted. When a sufficient time had been allowed for the
process, the animal was put into a long wooden cage, so
narrow that it could not turn itself round. The cage being
opened by a door behind, a small spatula, or spoon, was
introduced through the orifice of the pouch, which was care-
fully scraped, and its contents put into a vessel. This
operation was performed twice or thrice a week. About a
drachm at a time is thus obtained, and the animal was said
to produce more civet when irritated. The quantity depended
chiefly on the quality of the nourishment it took, and the
appetite with which it ate. In confinement its favourite food
CIVET.
243
was boiled meat, eggs, birds, and small animals, and par-
ticularly fish.
A good deal of the civet now brought to European markets
is from Calicut, capital of the province of Malabar, and from
Bassora on the Euphrates, and from Abyssinia, where the
animal is reared with much tenderness. A living specimen
may be seen at the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park.
Civet must have been used in England in Shakespeare's
time, for he mentions it, as also musk, in several plays.
Give me an ounce of civet. — Lear, iv. 6.
He rubs himself with civet. — Much Ado, iii. 2.
Hands are perfumed with civet. — As You Like It, iii. 3.
CIVET CAT.
In its pure state, civet has, to nearly all persons, a most
disgusting odour. Massinger makes one of his characters
say —
Lady, I would descend to kiss thy hand,
But that 'tis gloved,' and civet makes me sick.
But when diluted to an infinitesimal portion, its perfume is
agreeable. It is difficult to ascertain the reason why the
> Such observations as the following occur not unfrequently in Nichols's
Royal Progresses : ' Three Italians came unto the queen, and presented her each
with a pair of sweet gloves. '
Edward de Vere, Earl of Oxford, the first person who brought embroidered
244 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
same substance, modified only by the quantity of matter
presented to the nose, should produce an opposite effect on
the olfactory nerve ; but such is the case with nearly all
odorous bodies, especially with ottos which, if smelled at, are
far from nice, and in some cases positively nasty — such as
otto of neroli, otto of thyme, otto of patchouly ; but if diluted
with a thousand times its volume of oil, spirit, &c., then their
fragrance is delightful.
Otto of rose to many has a sickly odour ; but when eli-
minated in the homoeopathic quantities which rise from a
single rose-bloom, who is it that will not admit that 'the rose
is sweet' ? The odour of civet is best imparted, not by
actual contact, but by being placed in the neighbourhood of
absorbent materials. Thus, when spread upon leather, and
placed in a writing-desk, it perfumes the paper and envelopes
delightfully, so much so that they retain the odour after
passing through the post. ' Valentines ' are thus scented.
For the purpose of making clear the difference between
the real civet cat, Viverra Civetta (L.), or scented civet, and
the zibeth, Viverra Zibetha (L.), we give figures of both
animals on the next page.
gloves into England, presented a pair to the queen, who took such pleasure in
the gift, that she was pictured with them in her hand. [A pair of Queen
Elizabeth's gloves, which are to be seen to this day, are exhibited in a case in the
Bodleian Library, Oxford. — S. P.] The ' embroidered ' and ' sweet ' gloves here
referred to had been recently introduced into this country from Spain and Venice,
which excelled all other seats of the trade in the delicacy of their productions, and
likewise imparted to them the additional charm of a fragrant scent. But the
perfumed glove has ever had an evil reputation, from the circumstance that it was
not unfrequently used as an agent in the conveyance of poison. The Queen
of Navarre, having received a pair from the court of France, and accepted
them as a pledge of safe conduct, met her death by their means — a fate which
is also supposed to have befallen the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees. The modem
French manufacturers, taking a hint from the former practice of Continental
craftsmen, were in the habit very recently of attempting to impart a fragrance to
some of their gloves ; but failing in the abstruse chemical knowledge which dis-
tinguished the Italians, they used a preparation of myrtle leaves, that quickly
evaporated on exposure to the air. — Chamber^ s Journal.
CIVET. 245
The first inhabits the hottest countries of Africa, from
Guinea and Senegal to Abyssinia ; the second is found in
the two peninsulas of India, the Moluccas and the Philippines.
This is distinguished by its shorter and tufted hair, the
absence of a mane, its round tail with short thick whitish
VIVERRA CIVETTA.
hair and half-rings ot black hair. It produces the civet
perfume.'
La Peyrpuse has described, under the name of a musk
animal, a third species of civet cat, Viverra base, which like-
wise produces a perfume.
VIVERRA ZIBETHA.
Extract of Civet is prepared by rubbing in a mortar
one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any
' Chaillu : ' Recherches pour servir a I'histoire anatomique des glandes odorantes
des mammifcres. ' — Annaks des sciences naturellcs, Sept. 1873.
246 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Other similar material that will assist to break up or divide
the civet, and then placing the whole into a gallon of
rectified spirits ; after macerating for a month, it is fit to
strain ofT. It is principally used as a ' fixing ' ingredient, in
mixing essences of delicate odour. The French perfumers
use the extract of civet more than the English manufacturers,
who seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a
pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with
a gallon of any other perfume.
Musk-Rat, or Ondatra.— This creature, a native of
Canada, is a quadruped of the family of the field-mice. In
the males are found two pear-shaped glands, whose excretory
duct terminates just below the prepuce. The female like-
wise has two glands ; but they are smaller, and their duct
opens near the urethra. The follicles of these glands secrete
a liquid white as milk, and smelling strongly of musk. This
odour is communicated to the hair and the tail.
The musk-rat of the Antilles, or the pilori, is a true rat.
The musk-rat of Russia, or desman, is an insectivorous
mammifer, whose snout is furnished with a flexible proboscis.
It has under its tail follicles which secrete a musk-scented
substance, which imparts its odour to the flesh of the pike
which feed on the desmans. The ducts of the musk-rat are
not used in perfumery ; the above facts are here given for the
reader's information.
Musk.
So sweetly, all musk. — Merry Wives, ii. 2.
This extraordinary substance, like civet, is an animal
secretion ; it is contained in excretory follicles about the
navel of the male animal. In the perfumery trade these
little bags are called ' pods,' and as imported it is called ' pod
musk.' When the musk is separated from the skin or sac in
which it is contained, it is then called ' grain musk.'
The musk-deer {Moschus moschatus) is an inhabitant ot
MUSK. 247
the great mountain range which belts the north of India, and
branches out into Siberia, Thibet, and China. It is also
found in the Altai range, near Lake Baikal, and in some
other mountain ranges, but always on the borders of the line
of perpetual snow. It is from the male animal only that the
musk is obtained.
It formerly was held in high repute as a medicine, and is
still so among Eastern nations. It will be remembered that
the newspaper paragraphs told us that the last dose which
the Emperor Nicholas of Russia swallowed before his death
(1855) was a potion of musk. The musk from Boutan,
Tonquin, and Thibet, is most esteemed ; that from Bengal is
inferior, and from Russia is of still lower quality. The
strength and the quantity produced by a single animal varies
with the season of the year and the age of the animal. A
single musk-pod usually contains from two to three drachms
of grain musk. Musk is imported into England from China,
in caddies of from 20 to 30 ounces each. When adulterated
with the animal's blood, which is often the case, it forms into
lumps or clots ; it is sometimes also mixed with a dark,
friable earth. Those pods in, which little pieces of lead are
discovered, as a general rule, yield the finest quality of musk ;
upon the idea, we presume, that the best musk is the most
worthy of adulteration. Musk is remarkable for the diffusive-
ness and subtlety of its scent ; everything in its vicinity soon
becomes affected by it, and long retains its odour, although
not in actual contact with it. For this reason the late Hon.
East India Company ordered that no musk be brought in the
same ship with tea.
The Musk-Deer.
This little, persecuted animal would probably have been left undis-
turbed to pass a life of peace and quietness in its native forests, but for
the celebrated perfume with which nature has provided it. Its skin being
worthless from its small size, the flesh alone would hold out no induce-
ment for the villagers to hunt it while larger game was more easily pro-
248 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
curable, and its comparative insignificance would alike liave protected it
from the pursuit of tlie European sportsman. As the musk, however,
renders it to the Puharries the most valuable of all, no animal is so
universally sought after in every place it is known to inhabit. Musk is
in demand in nearly every part of the civilised world ; yet little, I believe,
is known of the nature and habits of the animal that produces it.
The musk-deer is rather more than three feet long, and stands nearly
two high at the shoulder; but they vary considerably in size, those found
in thick shady woods being invariably larger than those on rocky open
ground. The head is small, the ears long and erect. The male has a
tusk depending from each upper jaw, which, in a full-grown animal, is
about three inches long, the thickness of a goose-quill, sharp pointed,
and curving slightly backwards. The general colour is a dark speckled
THE MUSK-DEER.
brownish-grey, deepening to nearly black on the hind-quarters, where it
is edged do^*n the inside of the thighs with reddish yellow. The throat,
belly, and legs are of a lighter grey. Legs long and slender ; toes long
and pointed; the hind heels are long, and rest on the ground as well as
the toes. The fur is composed of thick spiral hairs, not unlike miniature
porcupine-quills ; they are very brittle, breaking with a slight pull, and
so thickly set that numbers may be pulled out without altering the out-
ward appearance of the fur. It is white from the roots to nearly the tips,
where it gradually becomes dark. The fur is much longer and thicker
on the hind parts than the fore, and gives the animal the appearance of
being much larger in the hind-quarters than the shoulder. The tail, which
is not seen unless the fur is parted, is an inch long, and about the thick-
ness of a thumb ; in females and young animals it is covered with hair,
MUSK. 249
but in adult males is quite naked, except a slight tuft at the end ; and
often covered, as well as all the parts near it, with a yellowish waxy sub-
stance.
The musk, which is much better known than the deer itself, is only
found in adult males ; the females have none, neither has any portion of
their bodies the slightest odour of musk. The dung of the males smells
nearly as strong as musk ; but, singularly enough, neither in the contents
of the stomach, nor bladder, nor in any other part of the body, is there
any perceptible scent of musk. The pod, which is placed near the navel,
and between the flesh and skin, is composed of several layers of thin skin,
in which the musk is confined, and has much the appearance of the craw
or stomach of a partridge, or other small galhnaceous bird, when full of
food. There is an orifice outwards through the skin, into which, by 9.
slight pressure, the little finger will pass, but it has no connection what-
THE MUSK APPARATUS.
a, vertical section of musk-pod ; b, orifice of the pod ; d, gland carried by
filiform prolongation into the urethra.
ever with the body. It is probable that musk is at times discharged
through this orifice, as the pod is often found not half full, and sometimes
nearly void.'
The accompanying figures will show the arrangement of the musk-pod
upon the animal, and separate.
The musk itself is in grains, from the size of a small bullet to small
shot, of irregular shape, but generally round or oblong, together with
more or less in coarse powder. When fresh it is of a dark reddish-brown
' [From this orifice the dealers extract the grain musk, and then insert in its
place the pieces of lead, brass, copper, skin, dried blood, clay, and other
adulterations generally found in the pods when opened in England, and from the
size of these orifices it can be pretty fairly judged how the pods have been
tampered with. — S. P.]
250 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
colour ; but, when taken out of the pod and kept for any length of time,
becomes nearly black. In autumn and winter the grains are firm, hard,
and nearly dry ; but in summer they become damp and soft, probably
from the green food the animals then eat. It is formed with the animal,
as the pod of a young one, taken out of the womb, is plainly distinguish-
able, and indeed is much larger in proportion than in grown-up animals.
For two years the contents of the pod remain a soft milky substance,
with a disagreeable smell. When it first becomes musk, there is not
much more than the eighth of an ounce; as the animal grows it in-
creases in quantity, and in some individuals as much as two ounces is
found. An ounce may be considered as the average from a full-grown
animal ; but, as many of the deer are killed young, the pods in the market
do not perhaps contain, on an average, more than half an ounce. Though
MUSK-POD, ACTUAL SIZE.
not so strong, the musk of young animals has a much pleasanter smell
than that of old ones ; but difference of food, climate, or situation, as far
as my experience goes, does not at all affect the quality.
From the first high ridge above the plains to the limits of forests on
the snowy range, and for perhaps the whole length of the chain of the
Himalayas, the musk-deer may be found upon every hill of an elevation
above 8,000 feet which is clothed with forest. On the lower ranges it is
comparatively a rare animal, being confined to near the summits of the
highest hills, as we approach the colder forests near the snow ; but it is
nowhere particularly numerous; and its retired and solitary habits make
it appear still more rare than it really is. Exclusively a forest animal, it in-
habits all kinds of forest indiscriminately, from the oaks of the lower hills
to the stunted bushes near the limits of vegetation. If we may judge from
MUSK. 251
their numbers, the preference seems to be given to the birch forests, where
the underwood consists chiefly of the white rhododendron and juniper.
In many respects they are not unlike hares in habits and economy.
Each individual selects some particular spot for its favourite retreat, about
which it remains still and at rest throughout the day, leaving it in the
evening to search for food, or to wander about, returning soon after day-
light. They will occasionally rest for the day in any place where they
may happen to be in the morning ; but in general they return to near the
same spot almost every day, making forms in different quarters of their
retreat a little distance from each other, and visiting them in turn. Some-
times they will lie under the same tree or bush for weeks together. They
make forms in the same manner as hares, levelling with their feet a spot
large enough for the purpose if the ground is too sloping. They seldom,
if ever, lie in the sun, even in the coldest weather, and their forms are
always made where there is something to shelter them from its rays.
Towards evening they begin to move, and during the night appear to
wander about a good deal, from top to bottom of the hill, or from
one side to another. In the day they are seldom seen moving about.
Their nocturnal rambles are apparently as much for recreation as in
search of food, as they often visit regularly some steep ledge of rock or
precipice, where there is little or no vegetation. The Puharries believe
that they come to such places to play and dance with each other, and
often set their snares along the edge of such a ledge or precipice, in pre-
ference to the forest.
If not walking leisurely and slowly along, the musk-deer always goes
in bounds, all fours leaving and alighting on the ground together. When
at full speed these bounds are sometimes astonishing for so small an
animal. On a gentle slope I have seen them clear a space of more than
sixty feet at a single bound, for several successive leaps, and spring over
bushes of considerable height at the same time. They are very sure-
footed, and, although a forest animal, in travelling over rocky and pre-
cipitous ground have perhaps no equal. When even the burrell is
obliged to move slowly and carefully, the musk-deer bounds quickly and
fearlessly ; and, although I have often driven them on to rocks which I
thought it impossible they could cross, they have invariably found a way
in some direction, and I have never known an instance of one missing its
footing, or falling, unless wounded.
They eat but little compared with other ruminating animals ; at least
one would imagine so from the small quantity found in their stomachs,
the contents of which are always in such a pulpy state that it is impossible
to tell what food they prefer. I have often shot them whilst feeding, and
found in the mouth or throat various kinds of shrubs or grasses, and
often the long white moss that hangs so luxuriantly from the trees in the
252 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
higher forests. Roots also seem to form a portion of their food, as they
scratch holes in the ground, like rhany of the hill pheasants. The Puhar-
ries believe that the males kill and eat snakes, and feed upon the leaves of
the ' kedar patta,' a small and very fragrant-smelling laurel, and that the musk
is produced by this food. They may probably eat the leaf of this laurel
amongst other shrubs ; but from the few occasions upon which I have
seen this laurel stripped of any portion of its leaves, it does not appear to
afford a very favourite repast. Their killing snakes is doubtless quite
fabulous.
The young are born either in June or July, and almost eveiy female
brings forth yearly, and often twins. These are always deposited in sepa-
rate places some distance from each other, the dam keeping herself apart
from boih, and only visiting to give them suck. Should a young one be
caught, its bleating will sometimes bring the old one to the spot ; but I
never knew an instance of one being seen abroad with its dam, or of two
young ones being seen together. Their solitary habits are innate ; for
if a fawn is taken young and suckled by a sheep or goat, it will not for
some time associate with its foster-dam, but, as soon as satisfied with
sucking, seeks some spot for concealment. It is amusing to see them suck ;
all the while they keep leaping up and crossing their fore-legs rapidly over
each other. They are rather difficult to rear, as many, soon after they
are caught, go blind and die.
In most of the hill-states the musk-deer is considered as royal pro-
perty. In some, the Rajahs keep men purposely to hunt it ; and in
Gurwhal a fine is imposed upon any Puharrie who is known to have sold
a musk-pod to a stranger — the Rajah receiving them in lieu of rent.
In some districts they are hunted down with dogs, but snaring is by
far the most common method practised for their capture. A few are
occasionally shot by the village shikaries when in pursuit of other animals ;
but the matchlock is seldom taken out purposely to hunt musk-deer, for
a hill shikarie does not carry the match lighted, and, the deer being gener-
ally come upon face to face, almost every one would get away before he
could strike a light and apply it to the match. In snaring, a fence about
three feet high, composed of bushes and branches of trees, is made in the
forest, generally alorfg some ridges, and often upwards of a mile in length.
Openings for the deer to pass through are left every ten or fifteen yards,
and in each a strong hempen snare is placed, tied to a long stick, the
thick end of which is firmly fixed in the ground, and the smaller, to which
the snare is fastened, bent forwards to the opening, so that the deer, when
passing through, treads upon some small sticks which hold it down, the
catch is set free, the stick springs back and tightens the snare round the
animal's leg. Besides the musk-deer, numbers of the forest pheasants,
moonals, corklass, and argus are caught in these snares ; they are visited
MUSK.
253.
every third or fourth day, and it is seldom that the owners return without
something or other. The polecats often find out the snares, and, after
once tasting the feast, if not destioyed, soon become a terrible annoyance,
tracing the fence almost daily from end to end, and seizing on everything
caught; they are often caught themselves, but immediately bite the snare
in two and escape. Musk-deer are frequeritly lost to the snarers in this
manner ; for when one is eaten by the polecats, the pod is torn to pieces,
and the contents scattered on the ground. No animal swallows the musk,
and when a deer has been killed and eaten by a leopard or other animal,
if the ground be carefully examined, much of the musk may be picked up.
Insects and maggots also leave it untouched.' I once found what I
thought was a newly killed musk-deer ; but on examination I discovered
it was merely the skin and skeleton of one, which from its dry and
withered state must have been dead some months ; the flesh had been
completely eaten away by maggots, but the musk-pod was entire.
The musk-pods which reach the market through the hands of the
native hunters are generally enclosed in a portion of the skin of the
animal, with the hair or fur left on it. When they have killed a musk-
deer, they cut round the pod, and skin the whole of the belly. The pod
comes off attached to the skin, which is then laid with its fleshy side on
a flat stone previously heated in the fire, and thus dried without singeing
the hair. The skin shrinks up from the heat into a small compass, and
is then tied or stitched round the pod, and hung up in a dry place until
quite hard. This is the general method of preparing them ; but some put
the pod into hot oil instead of laying it on a hot stone ; but either method
must deteriorate the quality of the musk, as it gets either completely
baked or fried. It is best both in appearance and smell if the pod is at
once cut from the skin, and allowed to dry of itself
The musk received from the Puharries is gieatly adulterated, and
pods are often made altogether counterfeit; and, as they are generally sold
without being cut open, it is scarcely possible to detect the imposture at
the time. I have often seen pods offered for sale which were merely a
piece of musk-deer skin filled with some substance, and tied up to re-
semble a musk-pod, with a little musk rubbed over to make it smell.
These are easy to detect, from there being no navel on the skin, it being
' [Having to do with musk for more than twenty-five years, I never but once
saw a living thing in it ; however, in May 1861, I purchased six caddies of rhusk ;
they were examined and appeared to be all right ; in the following August, on
opening one of these caddies, I was surprised to find every pod of musk perforated
with maggot holes, and, on opening the pods, white maggots, all alive and fat,
were found in endless numbers enjoying their banquet— a food which had cost me
50J. an ounce. As the creature was new to me, I called \tthe Musk Grub. — S.P.]
254 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
cut from any part of the body. But the musk is sometimes taken out of
real pods, and its place supplied by some other substance, and these are
difficult to detect even if cut open, as whatever is put in is made to re-
semble musk in appearance, and a little genuine added makes it smell
nearly as strong. Some have only a portion of the musk taken out, and
its place thus supplied ; and others have all the musk left in, but some-
thing added to increase the weight. Even in the hills where it is pro-
duced, so little do the generality of the people know of musk, that 1 have
often seen the Puharries about Gangoutrie sell to pilgrims, to men from
the lower hills, and even to their own neighbours, sraall portions of what
they called musk, but what was merely some substance resembling it,
with a little genuine musk scattered over it. Of this stuff they would
sell about a quarter of a tolah for a rupee, or about los. an ounce.
The substances commonly used for adulteration or to fill the counter-
feit pods, are blood, boiled or baked on the fire, then dried, beaten to
powder, kneaded into a paste, and made into grains and coarse powder to
resemble genuine musk ; a piece of the liver or spleen prepared in the
same manner ; dried gall, and a particular part of the bark of the apricot-
tree, pounded and kneaded as above. The dried paste from which
common oil has been extracted, called ' peena,' is also used, and lumps
of this are often, without further preparation, thrust into a pod through
the orifice in the skin, to increase the weight. Sometimes no care is
taken to give the material employed in filling a counterfeit pod even the
appearance of musk. A gentleman once showed me a pod he had bought
from a Puharrie at Missourie ; on my telling him it was counterfeit, he
cut it open, and found it filled with hookah tobacco.'
My friend Mr. F. Peake, of the firm Peake, Allen, and
Co., of Umballa, and Albion Place, London, whose long
residence in the north of India has given him, for a Eu-
ropean, unusual opportunities of ascertaining facts relating to
the musk-deer, has sent me a skin which I have had mounted
by Mr. Ward. This specimen is to be seen at 2 New Bond
Street ; and in honour thereof my firm adopted the trade-
mark of the musk-deer.
Mr. Peake writes : —
The specimen probably will serve to clear up many points relative
1 Col. Fred, ^ax^sham's (C.^.) Journal of Sporting Adventures and Travel in
Chinese Tartary and Thibet.
MUSK.
255
to the quality and appearance of musk, and to explain the difference, and
■cause of there being so many varieties and qualities in the market.
The deer is about the size of a greyhound, and, from the length of its
tusks, it is no doubt five or six years of age, or perhaps more. Its brown
stubby coat more resembles small porcupine-quills than hair, and every
part of the animal has a strong odour of musk. The head, legs, feet, and
general outline, are those of the common deer ; but in its habits it more
resembles the hare, selecting a solitary place or form separate from its
species. It is sometimes found in the lower ranges of the mountains, at
an elevation of 7,000 to 8,000 feet. It is an inhabitant of the forest, but
partial to woody ravines, and is common only on the spurs or projecting
points jutting from the eternal snowy ranges, at an altitude of from 10,000
to 14,000 feet.
The natives take the musk-deer by snaring, but this specimen was, it
is believed, shot by the rifle. On being approached, they bound off with
great rapidity, and when at about eighty to one hundred yards, turn round
for a few seconds to gaze on their distui-ber with their faces towards him ;
at this instant the unerring aim is taken, but the prize is not always
secured, as sometimes it falls down precipices where it cannot be reached.
Days and days are frequently lost without falling in with any, and, on an
average, upwards of thirty miles are traversed daily.
The toil of getting up and down these immense mountains is very
great, and the pursuit is attended with many hardships and privations.
The time expended and distance traversed render the occupation very
expensive, from the necessity of being accompanied by various grades of
servants, some to hunt up and look out for game, others to carry provi-
sions, cooking utensils, &c. ; consequently, genuine musk must always
maintain a high rate.
It will be seen that there is a thin membrane under the outer skin
of the abdomen, of a small bladder-like appearance, containing a thickish
igoft substance, which is the musk. The musk in each membranous pod
256 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
usually weighs from two drachms to an ounce ; from an old deer, from one
ounce and a half to two ounces ; and its odour increases in proportion to
the age of the animal. The male only furnishes the musk ; at the age of
twelve months and under it does not yield any, and it is only at three years
that the pod contains sufficient to be worth the trouble of extracting.
The practised eye can generally judge if it be a young one — if so, it is
allowed to escape. At two years the pod contains a yellowish milky sub-
stance, and when first changed to musk, it yields not more than two
drachms, frequently less.
A few extracts from our Himalayan correspondent's
letter may more clearly illustrate its character : —
One or two small parcels I have sent to London have had a preference
in the market even to the best Assam. About sending it in pods with
the hair on ? I will do so if you like ; but I would not recommend it, as
my musk is genuine just as it is taken from the animal. The thin
bladder-like skin dries in the sun in a few hours — that in the hairy pods,
on the contrary, gets quite roasted in the process of preserving and pre-
paring.
The native plan is to make a stone nearly red hot, and the pod is first
applied to it inwardly and outwardly till the skin is nearly dry, when it
is stitched up, and the navel side is then held to the stone, pressing it
and closing it with considerable force till the pod is quite dry. If this were
not done, putrefaction would ensue, which, though only of the skin, would
not improve the musk.
I sent both kinds home, to ascertain which was best, and that in the
pods without the hairy skin was declared to be far superior. All came
from the same place, and from animals killed the same season.
In a letter of a former year he states : —
I send you an account of the season's produce, viz. 1 20 pods, which
weigh Eibout 1 10 to 120 ounces or more, as they are large. The small
ones being nearly all skin, I thought it advisable to let the natives have
them to dress ;in their way and to sell to natives.
The musk'pod familiar to us all is this membranous bladder, cut from
the deer with a portion of the outer skin ; it is pressed and stitched up,
and dried on a hot stone. By this continued heat much of its odour is
driven off, and it is consequently deprived of its qualities as a remedial
agent, and for the use of the perfumer greatly deteriorated. A large
quantity of musk collected by natives, which is invariably falsified, finds
MUSK. 257
its way to this and other countries., They cut the young pods, containing
no musk at all, as before mentioned, and fill them with the liver and
blood of the animal, mixed with this yellow fluid and a small portion of
genuine musk, fill, and sew them up in the skin, and dry on the hot stove ;
or those which yield half a drachm to a drachm they mix and dry in like
manner.
At one of the Government sales in India of presents given by native
princes, there were many pods of musk, to appearance very fine, which
proved to be nearly worthless ; they had evidently been ' made up,' and
from long keeping the little real musk they contained had considerably
evaporated.,
It would be a difficult matter for a native to resist the temptation of
not making some addition even to the finest pods, or of extracting a portion
and filling it up with the mixture of blood and liver.
The interior of the Himalayas where the supply is obtained is towards
Ladak, Thibet, and Chinese Tartary ; and, as these mountains extend
over so many thousand miles, it is probable that the musUs known as
China, Nepaul, and other musks, and perhaps some Russian, are from
the same districts. The Tartar tribes wander from place to place, bar-
tering with the natives of these several countries who have access to these
regions. Hence the musk would be from the same species, the difference
in appearance being caused by its varying age and mode of preparing and
drying.
The genuineness of musk depends on the honesty of the natives and
others who procure and dispose of it to the various markets.
The musk in the membranous bladder yields nearly double the
quantity of grain musk to an equal weight of musk with the skin and
hair.
It is a fashion of the present day for people to say that
' they do not Hke musk ; ' but, nevertheless, from great
experience in one of the largest manufacturing perfumatories
in Europe, I am of opinion that the public taste for musk is
as great as any perfumer desires. Those substances contain-
ing it always take the preference in ready sale — so long as
the vendor takes care to assure his customer ' that there is no
musk in it.'
The Empress Josephine was very fond of perfume, and,
above all, of musk. Her dressing-room was filled with it, in
spite of Napoleon's frequent remonstrances.
s
2S8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Forty years have elapsed since her death, and the present owner of
Malmaison has had the walls of that dressing-room repeatedly washed
and painted ; but neither scrubbing, aquafortis, nor paint has been able
to remove the smell of the good Empress's musk, which continues as
strong as if the bottle' which contained it had been but yesterday re-
moved.
Such is the story which makes its periodical appearance,
with others, when printers want matter to ' make up ' a cohimn
of a magazine of Fiction ! This story will remind readers of
another but rather more truthful — that of an extravagant
Turk, who built a harem and had the cement of its walls
mixed with musk which is fragrant to this day. [I do not
know when the building was erected.] There is yet one
more tale of this oft repeated fable, which is to be read in
modern Cyclopedias and allied works, which runs somewhat
thus : ' A grain of musk will perfume an apartment for a
whole year without sensibly losing weight ! ' The longevity
of the smell of musk undoubtedly under certain conditions
of seclusion from the outward air is great ; but it is not of
that mythical character with which the late Sir G. C. Lewis
endowed the old lady whom he never could make out, who lived
longer than the lease of a plot of building land, namely,
ninety-nine years. A grain of musk will not perfume an
ordinary sized ' apartment,' say even a small one of ten feet
square, for one week i Musk rapidly loses weight and odour
when exposed to ordinary currents of air ; the odorous
particles are dissipated, and there is left, if the experiment be
tried upon glass or card, an odourless brown patch as one
would notice from a speck of animal blood or excreta, the
fragrance of the musk is gone ; the fable verifies its lasting
odorous qualities, but, like a flatterer, it tells of qualities which
will not bear the test of experiment.
The perfumer uses musk principally in the scenting of
soap, sachet-powder, and in mixing for liquid perfumery.
The just reputation of Paris's original Windsor soap is due, in
MUSK.
-259
the main, to its delightful odour. The soap is, doubtless, of
the finest quality, but its perfume stamps it among the Mte —
its fragrance it owes to musk.
The alkaline reaction of soap is favourable to the
development of the odoriferous principle of musk. If,
however, a strong solution of potass be poured on to grain
musk, ammonia is developed instead of the true musk smell.
The musk-pods of commerce vary in form according to
their origin. We give some of the most usual forms.
MUSK-PODS OF. BENGAL, UPPER AND LOWER SURFACES.
A, hairs of the pods, natural size.-
There are three kinds of musk common in the London
market. The Cabardien, or Russian Musk, which is rarely, if
ever, adulterated ; from its poor fragrance, however, it does
not fetch more than 8j. an ounce in the i^od. The Assam
Musk is next in quality ; it is very strong, but has a rank
smell ; the pods are very large and irregular in shape ;
fetches about 24$-. per ounce in the pod. The Tonqumox
Chinese Musk yields the kind mostly prized in England, and
26o
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
is more adulterated than the former : market price, from 26s.
to 32J. per ounce in the pod.
Extract of Musk.
Grain musk . . . . . 2 oz.
Rectified spirit i gallon
After standing for one month, at a summer temperature, it is
fit to draw off. Such an extract is that which is used for
CABARDIEN, OR RUSSIAN MUSK-FODS.
MUSK-PODS OF CHINA. OPPOSITE SIDES.
mixing in other perfumes. That extract of musk which
is prepared for retail sale is made thus: and sold under the
title of
Extrait de Muse.
Extract of musk i pint
„ ambergris J „
„ rose triple 1 „
Mix and filter ; it is then fit for bottling-.
MUSK.
261
This preparation is sweeter than pure extract of musk
made according to our first formula, and is also more profit-
r^ble to the vendor. It will be seen hereafter that the original
extract of musk is principally used for a fixing ingredient in
other perfumes, to give permanence to a volatile odour ;
customers requiring, in a general way, that which is incom-
patible — namely, that a perfume shall be strong to smell, i.e.
very volatile ; and that it shall remain upon the handkerchief
for a long period, ergo not volatile! Small portions of extract
of musk, mixed with esprit de rose, violet, tubereuse, and others,
do, in a measure, attain this object ; that is, after the violet,
&c., has evaporated, the handkerchief still retains an odour,
which, although not that of the original smell, yet gives satis-
faction, because it is pleasant to the nasal organ.
262
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
In the caddies of Chinese musk which are imported into
this country, there are occasionally found the musk merchants'
circulars, or, as they are called, ' chop-papers,' and also, though
rarely, a quaint print representing the capture of the animal.
Rudely executed as these prints are, they nevertheless teach
us something relating to the methods of obtaining this nasal
luxury ; the above engravings are ' highly finished ' copies of
an original pair which came together in the same caddy : they
show the huntsmen on horseback, the dogs, the bowmen, the
arrow-stricken animal, the return of the hunting party, and
the ' game ' suspended pn the poles to its last home, — in fact,
the whole story is thus told better than words can express.
I am indebted to Mr. Smith, of the firm of Smith and Elder,
of Cornhill, for the following translation of the accornpanying
' chop-paper,' which was found on opening an original caddy
MUSK.
263
of musk, of superior quality : by this it would appear that the
finest musk in Chinese estimation is from Thibet and from the
province of Ta-tseen-loo ; it also mentions the principal towns
where it is sent for sale.
Translation of Chop-paper.
Our firm itself selects the best kind of superior Sze-chuen musk at
Ta-tseen-loo, in that province, and in Thibet, from whence we send it,
without any admixture, to Soo-chow, Nanking, Hwae-chow, Yang-chow,
and Kwang-tung, for sale. Our wares are genuine, our prices true, and
neither old nor young are deceived in them. We beg honourable mer-
chants, who may favour us with their custom, to remember our firm seal,
certain shameless scoundrels havmg falsely assumed our designation, and
fraudulently issued notices in order to deceive merchants. Fearing that it
may be difficult to distinguish in this confusion, we now, in Kwang-tung,
notify the selected designation of our firm, as a rule for guidance.
The Kwang-shun-se-ke, firm of Sze-chuen.
In commerce musk is supplied in two ways— in bladders or
264 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
in bags ; that is to say, contained in the glandular apparatus
which produces it, and separate from the bladder, or in grains.
The first is most valued. The chief varieties are the Tonquin,
Chinese or Thibetan musk, and the Kabardin or musk of
Siberia. These divisions might be multiplied. The Thibetan
and Tonquin musk, as well as that from the western provinces
of China, reaches Europe by way of Canton, and is brought
by English and Dutch ships. It is packed in cases of small
size, protected on the outside by plates of lead soldered to-
gether. Each case contains about twenty-five bags, each of
which is wrapped in very fine paper, bearing figures and
inscriptions indicating the contents.
The China musk, the most valued, bears on the wrapper,
in red or blue letters and in English, the inscription, — Musk
collected^at Nankin by Tungt-chin Chung Chang Ke. Beneath
is the figure of a Chinese divinity, with a musk-deer at his
feet, and a streamer on which the good quality of the article
is set forth. On the lid are the words Ling Tchan Musk, and
below is a coarse drawing representing the chase of the musk-
deer, from the belly of which hangs a bag of musk.
The musk of Assam, south of Thibet, reaches Europe by
way of Calcutta. It is sent in bags enclosed in a chest of
wood or tin-plate, which holds about two hundred pods. The
form of this musk is more variable than that of the Nankin
musk.
The Kabardin or Siberian musk comes from the Altai
mountains and other parts of northern Asia. It is sent by
way of the Baltic ; the pods are smaller, the hair of the under
surface is silvery grey, the colour of the musk is darker, it is
of a clear chocolate tint, drier and less scented, and its odour
is not so agreeable.
Musk must have been greatly valued at the epoch of the
Crusades, for it figures among the precious objects sent by
Sultan Saladin to the Greek emperor of Constantinople : it
MUSK. 26s
was an ingredient in a large number of pharmaceutical pre-
parations ; and it was employed at the toilet and in embalming.
Nothing is known as to the physiological action of the
musk-bag and of the substance contained in it. All that is
known is that the secretion is most abundant at the period of
rutting, and this circumstance naturally suggests that it may
play a certain part in the reproductive process of the animals.
It has been ascertained by Brandt that the male musk-
bearers have, about the middle of the external surface of the
thigh, a subcutaneous gland composed of aveolar cells which
secrete a greenish, syrupy, colourless matter, the use of which
is not known.
The odour of musk is more or less modified by its associ-
ation with various odorous or inodorous substances. Thus,
camphor and valerian affect it, and bitter almonds destroy it.
When perfumers have to disinfect a mortar that has been used
for rubbing musk with other substances, they pound bitter
almonds in it.
266 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION VIT.
AMMONIA.— Under the various titles of 'Smelling Salts,"
'Preston Salts,' ' Inexhaustible Salts,' ' Eau de Luce,'
' Sal Volatile,' ammonia, mixed with other odoriferous bodies,
has been very extensively consumed as material for gratifying
the olfactory nerve.
The perfumer uses Liq. Amm. fortis^that is, strong liquid
ammonia — and the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, for preparing
the various 'salts' that he sells. These materials he does not
attempt to make ; in fact, it is quite out of his province so to
do, but he procures them ready for his hand through some
manufacturing chemist. The best preparation for smelling-
bottles is what is termed Inexhaustible Salts, which is prepared
thus : —
Liquid ammonia I pint
Otto of rosemary . . . i drachm
„ English lavender .... i »
„ bergamot . . . . \ „
„ cloves \ „
Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and well-
stoppered bottle.
This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with
any porous absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is
better, sponge cuttings that have been well beaten, washed,
and dried. These cuttings can be procured at a nominal
price from any of the sponge-dealers, being the trimming or
AMMONIA. 267
roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut ofif before the
merchants send it into the retail market. After the bottles
are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the
scented ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge
will retain when the bottles are inverted ; as, if by any chance
the ammonia runs out and is spilt over certain coloured fabrics,
it causes a stain. When such an accident happens, the person
who sold it is invariably blamed.
When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the
ammoniacal odour longer than any other material; hence, we
presume, bottles filled in this way are called ' inexhaustible,'
which name, however, they do not sustain more than two or
three months with any credit ; the warm hand soon dissipates
the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to be
refilled.
For transparent coloured bottles, instead of sponge, the
perfumers use what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate
of potass). The bottles being filled with crystals, are covered
either with the liquid ammonia, scented as above, or with
alcoholic ammonia (alcohol saturated with ammoniacal gas).
The necks of the bottles are filled with a piece of white cotton ;
otherwise, when inverted, from the non-absorbent quality of
the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and causes complaints to
be made. The crystals are prettier in coloured bottles than
the sponge ; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as
handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia
better than any other material. Perfumers sell also what is
called White Smelling Salts, and Preston Salts. The White
Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder,
with which is mixed any perfuming otto that is thought fit,
— lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfac-
tion.
The contents of a bottle so filled soon lose their pungency,
and a nearly inodorous residue remains. Mr. AUchin's plan
268
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
is first of all to convert the sesqul-carbonate into the mono-
carbonate of ammonia, which is accomplished in the following
way: — Forty ounces of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia are
broken into fragments about the size of filberts, and placed
in a jar having a well-fitting lid. Into this is afterwards
poured twenty ounces of liquor ammonia, sp. gr. 880°. This
mixture is frequently stirred for a week, and the jar is then
set aside in a cool place for three or four more weeks. If the
mixture is not stirred for the first week it sets as hard as a
stone ; but after stirring, it becomes solid and dry, but can be
easily removed from the jar. It is now reduced to a roughish
powder, something like salt of tartar, and in that state it is
ready for filling the bottles, and improves by keeping. When
placed in the bottles, some volatile essence or strong ammonia
perfumed with essential oils is added. The volatile essence
Mr. Allchin uses and recommends is the first given in Dr.
Redwood's edition of ' Gray's Supplement to the Pharmaco-
poeia,' and is as follows : —
English oil of lavender and essence of musk, of
each
4 drachms
Oil of bergamot . . . . .
2 „
„ cloves .... . .
1 drachm
Otto of roses .... . .
10 drops
Oil of cinnamon .... . .
5 »
Strongest hquor ammonia
I pint
In the above way, a salt is made which retains its pun--
gency as long as any remains in the bottle. One that had
been filled five years was exhibited to a meeting of the
Pharmaceiltical Society, and, although nearly all the contents
had evaporated, what remained still possessed a pungent,
agreeable odour.
It was noticed that the salt had become of a brownish
colour, which was attributed to the action of the oil of cloves
AMMONIA. 26a
contained in the perfume, and it was stated that it would
remain colourless if it were omitted.
We may remark that the proto-carbonate of ammonia
does not exist in a free and pure state. It may be allowed
that the sesqui-carbonate results from the combination of a
bi-carbonate with a neutral carbonate, and by adding am-
monia to this mixture, a basic carbonate is obtained. This,
however, is of little consequence as regards the applications
of these salts by the perfumer.
Preston Salt, which is the cheapest of all the ammo-
niacal compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable
salt of ammonia and lime, such as equal parts of ammonia
chloride, or of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, and of fresh-
slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with this compound,
rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is
poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of
French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We
need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted
sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax — that is, red or
black wax dissolved in alcohol — to which a small portion of
ether is added. The only other compound of ammonia that
is sold in the perfumery trade is eau de Luce, though properly
it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made — which is
very rarely the case — it retains the remarkable odour of oil
of amber, which renders it characteristic.
■ [ I oz.
Eau de Luce.
Tincture of benzoin ; or, .
„ balsam of Peru ....
Otto of lavender 10 drops
Oil of amber S »
Liquor ammonia 2 oz.
If requisite, strain through cotton wool ; but it must not be filtered, as
it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion.
270 THE ART OF PITRFVMERY.
There are several formulae for the preparation of eau de
Luce. The following is the most usual in France : —
Rectified oil of amber 2 grammes
White soap ... ... i gramme
Balsam of Peru i „
Spirit of wine at 86° . .... 96 grammes
Macerate for eight days, then filter. To prepare eau de Luce add one
part of the above tincture to sixteen parts of fluid ammonia.
Soap is not an ingredient in all the formulse of eau de
Luce ; but it imparts more stability to the milky mixture.
SNUFF.
Though we advocate the proper use of the olfactory sense,
yet we repudiate snuff; nevertheless, we cannot allow this
work to go to press without pointing out the analogy between
the use of scent and the use of snuff. By a singular perversity
of human nature, the snuff-takers declare, almost to the
majority of one, that they dislike scent : we have, however,
only to show that snuff is scent in a high degree, and then
leave the reader to decide the question.
Two-thirds of the snuff that is taken owes its fragrance to
ammonia, the tobacco-leaf merely serving as a medium to
bring the ammonia to the nose. The moist tobacco-leaf
certainly imparts a peculiar odour to the snuff that is made
from it, but still it is to the ammonia that it owes its peculiar
pungency. Li this respect, then, we can only compare the
snuff-box to the ladies' smelling-bottle ; they are both
mediums for conveying ammonia, either plain or modified
by certain other odorous bodies for the purpose of disguising
its real smell, to the olfactory nerve.
The reader will now see our reason for placing snuff in
the same section of odoriferous bodies as ' smelling salt.'
SNUFF. 271
Like every other substance that is capable of being
modified by man, there are snuffs in infinite variety.
The plain snuffs are of two kinds ; that is, Scotch and
Rappee. Irish is but a slight modification of Scotch. The
Irish and Scotch snuffs are made from the stalks of the
tobacco-leaf, which, in truth, otherwise would be a waste
product of cigar manufacture. When the tobacco-leaf is being
made into cigars, the stalks and fibres are cut out of the leaf,
otherwise it would not roll up properly ; when these fibres
have accumulated sufficiently, the snuff-making process is
begun. If the snuff is to become any of the high-dried
qualities, then the material has to be sent to an oven, and
there dried to that extent required for particular denomina-
tions. Lundyfoot is remarkable as being dried almost to the
extent of burning, hence this favourite ' blackguard ' always
has a burnt wood smell ; after this process it is sent to the
snuff-mills, to be ground to titillating dust.
The Irish and common Scotch is made entirely from the
stalk of the tobacco-leaf. The best Scotch contains a portion
of the leaf mixed with the stalk. The moist snuffs are
prepared in another way, thus : — After suflScient stalks have
accumulated in the manufactory, they are cut up into pieces
of about the Jg-th to ^th of an inch in length, and placed in a
large trough, in lots of from one hundredweight to double
that quantity. As the material is put in, it is thoroughly
moistened with water in which is dissolved, for some varieties,'
carbonate of ammonia, and for others, muriate of ammonia :
in this state it is left to ferment or ripen from about one to
two months, according to the weather ; in a fortnight or more
after this treatment, the material begins to ' heat,' and it is
now that the future aroma, or flavour, as the makers term it,
is decided ; for if it becomes too hot, the ammonia is dissi-
pated, and if not hot enough, then the ammoniacal fragrance
is not sufficiently developed. It must be observed that
272 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
tobacco in any form, when moist, and allowed to heat,/^o-
duces ammonia from the elements of its own composition ; in
this respect it is only like other vegetables containing nitro-
genous compounds ; the final odour of the snuff depends on
the peculiarities of the various tobaccos employed, such as
American, Cuban, &c. After the fermentation is complete,
the material is sent to the mill to be ground.
' Rappee,' which means little leaf, is considered a finer
quality of snuff than the former, and is prepared by a similar
process ; it consists, however, of leaf tobacco, and contains
little or no stalk. The ammoniacal smell is much stronger
in rappee snuff than in others.
There are, however, several other kinds of snuff, which for
their popularity will induce us to claim all who use them —
and they are a legion — as patrons of the ' Art of Perfumery.'
These are ' Prince's Mixture,' which is a rappee scented with
otto of rose ; and ' Queen's Scotch,' which is perfumed with
bergamot.
The snuff-makers were the first to teach the perfumers to
what an extent the fragrance of the Tonquin Bean was
admired ; even now, if a perfumer makes a mixture containing
Tonquin Bean extract in excess, he is charged with making
his perfumery smell like snuff.
One of the most delightfully scented snuffs, called ' Wall-
flower,' is made by Messrs. G. and S. Goodes, of Spitalfields,
who seem determined, in spite of public opinion, to bring
snuff into fashion as it was in the reign of Good Queen Anne.
Dr. Revil says : —
The French snuffs, prepared in a different manner from the English,
are highly thought of by foreigners, and are frequently preferred to the
noted snuffs of Spain. We hold, in opposition to Dr. Piesse's opinion,
that the action of snuff is not owing merely to the ammonia disengaged
from it.
The odour of snuffs is to be distinguished from their
SNUFF. 273
strength or perfume. The flavour reveals itself in the odour,
the strength in the after effects of the snuff. The latter is
due to the nicotine. A tobacco is high perfumed when it
contains salts of ammonia, and little strength when nicotine
is present in small quantity. It is just the reverse in the case
of Virginia, which contains only a small quantity of ammonia
and has little flavour ; but it is very strong because it contains
a good deal of nicotine. The latter escapes the sense of
smell, and only shows itself by absorption by the mucous
membrane of the nose.
It is probable that the perfume is independent of the
nicotine and the ammonia. By this term is denoted the
sweet odour characteristic of the tobaccos of Virginia. It is
chiefly developed during the fermentation of the mass,.
At the present time the soaking necessary to set up fer-
mentation is effected with salt water. Formerly, various
liquids, under the name of sauces, were employed, either to
promote fermentation or to aromatise. These sauces varied
with the various works : sometimes molasses dissolved in
water was used ; or a solution of liquorice juice ; water in
which raisins or prunes had been boiled ; rose-water and
violet-water. Particular scents used to be given to tobaccos,
which were then called by specific names, for example, scafer-
lati, Levantine, Canaster, Saint Vincenfs twist, or American
grasshopper, roll of Montauban, Brazilian bouquet. Sec. The
Macoaba was imitated with a decoction of iris of Florence,
while the true Macoaba is a tobacco prepared at Martinique,
with a solution of raw sugar, which' imparts to it the odour of
violet. These sauces are still used in the manufacture of
Havana and Malaisie. It is stated by Prade' that infusion of
melilot was employed for aromatising tobacco, and decoctions
of India wood and cinnamon for colouring it. Moreover, the
nature of the perfumes differed in the .different manufactories ;
' Histoire du Tabac, p. 16, Paris, 1 69 1.
T
274 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
they were orange-flower, jasmine, rose, tubereuse, amber, musk,
civet, or essences agreeable to the sense of smell. But now
snuff is manufactured to a great extent without aromatics,
and the takers perfume it to their own taste, most frequently
with the Tonka bean.
From these various ways of perfuming snuff arose as
many different kinds, which were named snuff of inille fleurs,
of Spain, of cedrat, of bergamot, of neroli, oi pongibon musque,
a la pointe d'Espagne, with odour of Rome, with odour of
Malta ambered, Genoese. Hence originated many frauds ;
e.g. under the name of Malta snuff a mixture was sold of
which the ingredients were rose- wood and liquorice powders.
Attempts were also made to increase the strength of
snuffs by mixing certain powders with them. Thus there
were snuffs compounded with eye-bright, hetony, pyrethrum,
cyclamen, angelica, ginger, pepper, clove, cubeb, cumin,
mustard, hellebore, euphorbia, &c. But all these have now
fallen into disuse.
There were alsp tobaccos compounded and aromatised
with anise, fennel, aloes wood, iris, sage, and rosemary mixed
with them. At the present time hardly anything is used
but cascarilla bark.
Real amateurs say that the aroma of cigars is as diversified
as the bouquet of wines. The selection of tobaccos and the
mode of fermentation may doubtless have much to do with
the various scents of cigars ; but nothing is positively known
on the subject. The taste of cigars has been compared to
that of cacao, burnt coffee, bitter almonds, the hazel nut,
wormwood, &c. The Cuban manufacturers at the present
time perfume them with various aromatic plants, by enclosing
them in cases of sweet-smelling wood, such as the juniper-
tree of the Bermudas or of Virginia {Jiiniperus bermudiania
or J. virginiand). But the probability is that the particular
soil, the climate and the mode of cultivation may each have
ACETIC ACID. 275
an influence on the formation of the essential oils which help
to impart the aroma to cigars. The same may be said with
respect to more or less advanced stages of fermentation ; as
a general rule, a too energetic fermentation is injurious to the
qualities of tobacco. Some makers assert that certain
liquids promote the development of the aroma ; such, for
instance, as beer or coffee with water.
All that is necessary for scenting cigars is to enclose them
in cases or in jars with the scent which is to be imparted.
As they are very porous and permeable, they are easily im-
pregnated with it, and will retain it a long time. Patchouly
leaves very quickly impart in this way the qualities of age.
ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.
The pungency of the odour of vinegar naturally brought
it into the earliest use in the art of perfumery.
The acetic acid evolved by distilling acetate of copper
(verdigris) is the true ' aromatic ' vinegar of the old alchemists.
The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic
acid aromatised with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus : —
Aromatic Vinegar.
Concentrated acetic acid 8 oz.
Otto of English lavender .... .2 drachms
„ „ rosemary . . . i drachm
„ cloves \ „
„ camphor i oz.
First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the
perfumes ; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional agita-
tion, it is to be strained, and is then ready for use.
Several forms for the preparation of this substance have
been published, almost all of which, however, appear to
complicate and mystify a process that is all simplicity.
T 2
276 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The most popular article of this kind is —
Henry's Vinegar.
Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage,
mint, and lavender flowers, pach . . . . J oz.
Bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and camphor,
each 1 „
Alcohol (rectified) . . . . . ■ 4 „
Concentrated acetic acid 16,,
Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit ; then add the acid, and
digest for a week.longer, at a temperature of about 14 C. or 15 C. Finally,
press out the now aromatised acidj and .filter it.
As this mixture must not go into the ordinary metallic
tincture-press, for the obvious reason of the chemical action
that would ensue, it is best to drain as much of the liquor
away as we can, by means of a common funnel, and then to
save the residue from the interstices of the herbs, by tying
them up in a linen cloth, and subjecting them to pressure, by
means of an ordinary lemon-squeezer or similar apparatus.
Vinaigre a la Rose.
Concentrated acetic acid i oz.
Otto of roses .J drachm
Well shaken together.
It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be
made in a similar manner to the above by using other ottos
in place of the otto of roses. All these concentrated vinegars
are used in the same way as perfumed ammonia — that is, by
pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental ' smeUing '
bottle, previously filled with crystals of sulphate of potash,
which forms the ' sel de vinaigre ' of the shops ; or upon
sponge into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes from their
French origin. The use of these vinegars had their origin in
the presumption of keeping those who carried them from the
ACETIC ACID. 277
effects of infectious disease, doubtless springing out of the
story of the ' four thieves' vinegar,' which is thus rendered in
Lewis's ' Dispensatory ' : —
It is said that during the plague at Marseilles ' four persons, by the
use of this preservative, attended unhurt multitudes of those that were
affected ; that, under the colour of these services, they robbed both the
sick and the dead ; and that, being afterwards apprehended, one of them
saved himself from the gallows by disclosing the composition of the pro-
phylactic,^ which was as follows : —
Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs, or Four Thieved Vinegar. .
Take fresh tops of common wormwood, Roman worm-
wood, rosemary, sage, mint, and rue, of each . j oz.
Lavender flowers . i „
Garlic, calamus aromaticus, cinnamon, cloves, and
nutmeg, each i drachm
Camphor ^ oz.
Alcohol, or brandy .... . . I „
Strong vinegar 4 pints
Digest all the materials, except the camphor and spirit, in a closely
covered vessel, for a fortnight, at a summer heat ; then express and filter
the vinaigre produced, and add the camphor previously dissolved in the
brandy or spirit.
A very similar and quite as effective a preparation may
be made by dissolving the odorous principle of the plants
indicated, in a mixture of alcohol and acetic acid. Such
preparations, however, are more within the province of the
druggist than the perfumer. There are, however, several
preparations of vinegar which are sold to some extent for
mixing with the water for lavatory purposes and the bath,
their vendors endeavouring to place them in competition with
eau de Cologne, but with little avail. Among them may be
enumerated —
' To any one who travels its undrained streets, some of which are but open
sewers, the wonder is that there is not always a plague there.
^ A very likely story !
278 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Hygienic or Preventive Vinegar.
Brandy . . .1 pint
Otto of cloves . . . . I drachm
„ lavender . . i „
„ marjoram
Gum benzoin .
Macerate these together for a few hours,
. I oz.
then add —
Brown vinegar
. 2 pints
And strain or filter, if requisite to be
bright.
Toilet Vinegar {a la Violette).
Extract of cassie ...
• ipint
„ orris .
Esprit de rose triple
White wine vinegar . . . .
1
• \ „
. 2 pints
Toilet Vinegar (d, la Rose).
Dried rose-leaves
4 oz.
Esprit de rose triple . . . . . | pint
White wine vinegar . ... .2 pints
Macerate in a close vessel for a fortnight, then filter and bottle.
Vinaigre de Colog7ie.
To eau de Cologne .... i pint
Add strong acetic acid . . . . ^ oz.
Piesse and Lubitis Cosmetic Vinegar.
Spirit I quart
Gum benzoin 2 oz_
Concentrated aromatic vinegar . . , i
Balsam of Peru . . . . ,1.
Otto of neroli . . .1 drachm
„ of nutmeg. . . . . . i ^^
This is one of the best that is made.
Without unnecessarily repeating similar formulae, it will
be obvious to the reader that vinegar of any flower may be
prepared in a similar way to those above noticed ; thus, for
vinaigre a la jasmin, or for vinaigre a la fleur d'orange, we
ACETIC ACID. 279
have only to substitute the esprit de jasmin, or the esprit de
fleur d'orange, in place of the eau de Cologne, to produce
orange-flower or jasmine vinegars ; however, these latter
articles are not in demand, and our only reason for explaining
how such preparations may be made, is in order to suggest
the methods of procedure to any one desirous of making
them leading articles in their trade.
We perhaps may observe, en passant, that where economy
in the production of any of the toilet vinegars is a matter of
consideration, they have only to be diluted with rose-water
down to the profitable strength required.
Any of the perfumed vinegars that are required to produce
opalescence when mixed with water must contain some gum-
resin, like the hygienic vinegar, as above. Either myrrh,
benzoin, storax, or tolu answer equally well.
Acetic acid obtained by the distillation of wood is often
substituted by the perfumer for that obtained from verdi-
gris. It is, indeed, preferred when perfectly rectified, i.e. freed
from empyreumatic substances. The former invariably con-
tains pyro acetic spirit, or acetone, the tarry smell of which
becomes obvious when the. acid is saturated with an alkaline
carbcJhate.
Lastly, by distillation of vinegar of wine, a very concen-
trated acetic acid, and highly valued, is obtained. It may be
recognised by its exceedingly pleasant odour of acetic ether,
which becomes very perceptible wheii it is saturated with
an alkaline carbonate.
28o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION VIII.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
See, from bright regions, borne on odorous gales,
The swallow, herald of the summer, sails.
Breathe, gentle air ! From flower-cups impart
Thy balmy influence to my anguish'd heart ;
Thou whose soft voice calls forth the tender blooms,
Whose pencil paints them, and whose breath perfumes :
O may each bud that decks the brow of Spring
Shed all its incense on thy wafting wing !
IN the previous articles we have endeavoured to explain
the mode of preparing the primitive perfumes— the
original odours of plants. It will have been observed that,
while the majority can be obtained under the form of otto,
or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not been
isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty
body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized,
with the exception of otto of rose — that diamond among the
odoriferous gems. Practically, we have no essential oils or
ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla, Acacia, Tubereuse, Cassie, Syringa,
Violets, and others. What we know of these odours is derived
from esprits obtained from oils or fats in which the several
flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards infusing
such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odours are
the most generally pleasing, while those made from the
essential oils {i.e. ottos) dissolved in spirit are of a secondary
character. The simple odours, when isolated, are called
Essential Oils, or Ottos ; when dissolved or existing in
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
solution in alcohol, by the English they are termed Essences,
and by the French ExTRAiTS, or ESPRITS ; a few exceptions
prove this rule. Essential oil of orange peel, and of lemon
peel, are frequently termed in the trade ' Essence ' of orange
and ' Essence ' of lemons, instead of essential oil or otto of
lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature is used in
perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the
fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears
to the writer that, if the nomenclature of these substances
were revised, it would be serviceable ; and -he would suggest
that, as a significant, brief, and comprehensive- term, Otto be
used as a prefix to denote that such and such a body is the
odoriferous principle of the plant. We should then have otto
of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender, &c., &c. In
this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used
the word Otto in place of ' essential oil,' in accordance with
his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil
in a fat oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction
is rendered obvious, for commercially such articles are still
called • oils ' — oil of jasmine, oil of roses. &c. It cannot be
expected that the public will use the words ' fat ' oil and
' essential ' oil, to distinguish these differences of composition.
There are several good reasons why the odoriferous
principle of plants should not be denominated oils. In the
first place, it is a bad principle to give any class of substances
the same signification as those belonging to another. Surely,
there are enough distinguishing qualities in their composition,
their physical character, and chemical reaction, to warrant
the application of a significant name to that large class of
substances known as the aroma of plants !
When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the
organic bodies were little dealt with. We know that we owe
this universal ' oil ' to the old alchemist, much in the
same way as ' spirit ' has been used ; but a little consideration
282 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
quickly indicates the folly of its continued use. We can no
longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential oil
of rosemary, or nutmegs, with anymore propriety than we can
term sulphuric acid ' oil ' of vitriol. All the chemical works
speak of the odoriferous bodies as • essential ' or ' volatile '
oils, and of the greasy bodies as ' fat ' or ' unctuous ' oils. Oils,
properly so called, unite with salifiable bases and form soap ;
whereas the essential or volatile oils — i. e. what we would
please to call the ottos — do no such thing. On the contrary,
they unite with acids in the majority of instances.
The word ' oil ' must hereafter be confined to those bodies
to which its literal meaning refers — ^fat, unctuous, inodorous
(when pure), greasy substances — and can no longer be applied
to those odoriferous materials which possess qualities diame-
trically opposite to oil. We have grappled with ' spirit ' and
fixed its meaning in a chemical sense ; we have no longer
' spirit ' of salt, or ' spirit ' of hartshorn. Let us no longer
have almond oil ' essential,' almond oil ' unctuous,' and the
hke.
It remains only for us to complete the branch of per-
fumery which relates to odours for the handkerchief, by
giving the formula for preparing the most favourite ' bouquets '
and ' nosegays.' These, as before stated, are but mixtures of
the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended, produce
an agreeable and characteristic odour — an effect upon the
smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of
harmonious sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that
of pleasure.
THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME.
Extract of tubereuse i pint
„ geranium. . . • i „
„ acacia i- „
„ fleur d'orange ] „
„ civet .... . J- ,
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
283
THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET.
Extract of acacia i pint
„ jasmine .
„ rose triple
„ fleur d'orange
„ tubereuse
civet 1 „
Otto of almonds .... . . 10 drops
of each
Esprit de rose .
„ jasmin
„ violette
„ cassie
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
BOUQUET D' AMOUR.
\r from pomade of each . i pint
I of each . . ■ \ „
Mix and filter.
BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D ANDORRE.
Extrait de jasmin .
„ rose
„ violette .
„ tubereuse
Extract of orris
Otto of geranium
from pomade of each . i pint
BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET.
Extrait de fleur d'orange
„ cassie
„ jasmin .
„ rose
Extract of orris
„ ambergris
Otto of neroli .
„ lavender
„ rose
from pomade of each . i pint
of each
\ drachm
284
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
BOUQUET DE CAROLINE ; also called
BOUQUET DES DfiLICES.
Extrait de rose
„ violette .
„ tubereuse
Extract of orris
„ ambergris
Otto of bergamot :|^ oz,
Citron zeste \ „
from pomade of each . i pint
■I of each . . ■ \ „
Extrait de rose
„ violette .
„ jasmin .
Esprit de rose triple
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
Otto citron zeste
„ bergamot
„ neroli .
THE COURT NOSEGAY.
of each
of each
of each
I pmt
I »
I oz.
I drachm
EAU DE CHYPRE.
This perfume is presumed to be derived from the Cyperus esculentus
by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus.
During the national career of Egypt, Persia, Greece, and Rome, the
Island of Cyprus was the resort of the Uite, learned, and refined. It was
at the time of the Crusades, when Richard I. of England assumed the
title of King of Cyprus, that the famed eau de Chypre was introduced
into Europe.
Extract of musk i pint
„ ambergris . i
„ vanilla .
„ Tonquin bean
„ orris . . )
Esprit de rose triple 2 pints
The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odours
that can be made.
of each
Extract- of musk
vanilla .
n
Tonquin bean
»
neroli
>»
geranium
))
rose triple
11
santal
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS. 285
EMPRESS EUGfiNIE'S NOSEGAY.
of each . . . i pint
of each . . . i „
KSTERHAZY BOUQUET.
Extrait de fleur d'orange (from pomade) . . i pint
Esprit de rose triple i „
Extract of vitivert . .\
„ vanilla . . r u
" . y of each . . . i „
„ orris • •
„ Tonquin . . '
Esprit de neroli Id
Extract of ambergris .... ■ i „
Otto of santal i ounce
„ cloves ........ ^ drachm
Notwithstanding the complex mixture here given, it is
the vitivert that gives this bouquet its peculiar character. Few
perfumes have excited a greater fiirore while in fashion.
ESS BOUQUET.
The reputation of this perfume has given rise to numerous
imitations of the original article, more particularly on the
Continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France
will be seen bottles labelled in close imitation of those .'ient
out by Bayley and Co., Cockspur Street, London, who are, in
truth, the original makers.
Esprit de rose triple i pint
Extract of ambergris ..... 2 oz.
„ orris • 8 „
Otto of lemons j „
„ bergamot i „
286
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The name ' ess ' bouquet, which appears to puzzle some
folk, is but a mere contraction of ' essence ' of bouquet.
EAU DE COLOGNE.
First Quality.
Spirit (from grape) 60 over proof .
. 6ga
Otto of neroli,///(z/«
. 30Z
„ „ bigarade .
I >,
„ rosemary ....
• 2 „
„ orange zeste
• 5 ,,
„ citron zeste .
5 „
,, bergamot ....
2 „
Mix with agitation ; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly
quiet, before bottling.
Second Quality.
Spirit (from corn) .
Otto of Petit-grain .
„ titxo\\, pStale
„ rosemary .
„ orange peel .
„ lemon .
„ bergamot .
6 gallons
2 oz.
4 ..
of each
Although eau de Cologne was originally introduced to
the public as a sort of ' cure-all,' a regular ' elixir of life,'
it now takes its place, not as a pharmaceutical product, but
among perfumery. Of its remedial qualities we can say
nothing, such matter being irrelevant to the purpose of this
book. Considered, however, as a perfume, in the public
taste it ranks very high ; and although it is exceedingly
volatile and evanescent, yet it has that excellent quality
which is called ' refreshing.' Whether this be due to the
rosemary or to the spirit, we cannot say, but think something
may be attributed to both. One important thing relating to
BOUQUETS. 287
eau de Cologne must not, however, pass unnoticed ; and that
is, the quality of the spirit used in its manufacture. The
utter impossibility of making brandy with English spirit in
any way to resemble the real Cognac, is well known. It is
equally impossible to make eau de Cologne with English
spirit, to resemble the original article. To speak of the
' purity ' of French spirit, or of the ' impurity ' of English
spirit, is equally absurd. The fact is, that spirit derived from
grapes and spirit obtained from corn have each so distinct
and characteristic an aroma, that the one cannot be mistaken
for the other. The odour of grape spirit is said to be due to
the cenanthic ether which it contains. The English spirit,
on the other hand, owes its odour to fusel oil. So powerful is
the cenanthic ether in the French spirit, that, notwithstanding
the addition to it of such intensely odoriferous substances
as the ottos of neroli, rosemary, and others, it still gives a
characteristic perfume to the products made containing it, and
hence the difficulty of preparing eau de Cologne with any
spirit destitute of this substance.
Although very fine eau de Cologne is often made by
merely mixing the ingredients as indicated in the recipe as
above, yet it is better, first, to mix all the citrine ottos with
spirit, and then to distil the mixture, afterwards adding to the
distillate the rosemaiy and nerolis, such process being the
one adopted by the most popular house at Cologne.
A great many forms for the manufacture of eau de
Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the
recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense,
of what they were putting, by theory, on paper. Other
venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the
aromatics of Lindley's ' Botany,' and would persuade us to
use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway,
fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet.
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint,
galanga, lemon thyme, &c. &c. &c.
All these, however, are but hum ! Where it is a
mere matter of profit, and the formula that we have given
is too expensive to produce the article required, it is better to
dilute the said Cologne with a weak spirit, or with rose-
water, and then filter it through paper with a little magnesia,
rather than otherwise alter its form ; because, although weak,
the true aroma of the original article is retained.
The recipe of the second quality of eau de Cologne is
given, to show that a very good article can be produced
with English spirit.
FLOWERS OF ERIN.
Extract of white rose (see White Rose)
„ vanilla
I pint
I oz.
NEW MOWN HAY.
Good hay — sweet hay hath no fellow,
says Shakspeare. True, the fragrance of hay is one of the
most grateful to our senses, and it is natural that there
should be a demand for a perfume of this odour.
The odour of hay is due to the vernal grass it contains.
When vernal grass is well grown, cut, and dried, it evolves an
odorous principle similar to that yielded by the Coumarin or
Tonquin bean ; hence the employment of the latter in the
following mixture, which gives general satisfaction : —
Extract of Tonquin bean
geranium
orange flowers
rose flowers .
„ triple ^ .
jessamine
2 pints
pint
BOUQUETS.
■289
ROYAL HUNT BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose, triple
„ neroli
„ acacia
„ fleur d'orange
„ musk
„ orris
„ Tonquin .
Otto of citron zeste .
of each
I pint
2 drachms
BOUQUET DE FLORA ; Otherwise, EXTRACT OF FLOWERS.
from pomade, of each . i pint
Esprit de rose .
„ tubereuse
„ violette
Extract of benzoin
Otto of bergamot
„ citron zeste
„ orange zeste
of each
1^0^.
2 „
THE GUARDS' BOUQUET.
Esprit de rose 2 pints
„ neroli . .")
.L off
Extract of vanilla . . !- of each
„ orris
„ musk
Otto of cloves k drachm
:j
FLEUR D'lTALIE ; or, ITALIAN NOSEGAY.
Esprit de rose, from pomade
„ triple
„ jasmine .
„ violette .
Extract of cassie
„ musk
„ ambergris
from pomade, of each
of each
U
2 pints
290 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
'JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET.
English Formula.
Extract of orris root 2 pints
Esprit de rose, triple i ^^
„ de pdmmade i „
Extrait de cassie . . ) j j r i_ 1
„ tuberedse , J de pommade, of each . J „
„ ambergris . . . ; . • i »
Otto of bergamot ^ oz.
French Formula.
Esprit de rose, de pommade . . ; . . i pint
„ tuBereuse . : . . . . i „
, casSie ... • i u
„ jasmin . ; ■••?,,
Extract of civet . . . 3 oz.
Independently of the nrtaterials emplloyed being different
to the original English recifie, it must be remembered that all
the French plerfiimes are made with bi^andy, i.e. grape spirit ;
whereas the English perfunies are made with corn spirit,
which alone modifies their odour. Though good for some
mixtures, yet fdr others the grape spirit is very objectionable,
on account of the predorriinance of its own aroma.
We have spoken of the difference in the odour between
the English and French spirit; the marked distinction of
British and Parisian pierfumes made according to the same
recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed.
Owing to the strong ' bouquet ' of the French spirit in com-
parison with ours, the Continental perfumers claim a su-
periority in the quality of their perfumes, but this aroma in
truth is objectionable in many instances. Now, although we
candidly admit that some odours are better when prepared
with grape spirit than with that from corn, yet there are
others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with
spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet.
BOUQUETS. 291
violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their
true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with
the British spirit.
All the citrine odours, verveine, vulnary waters, eau de
Cologne, eau de Portugal, eau d'Arquebuzade, and lavender,
can alone be brought to perfection by using the French
spirit in their manufacture. If extract of jasmine, or extract
of violet, &c., be made with the French or brandy spirit, the
true characteristic odour of the flower is lost to the olfactory
nerve — so completely does the oenanthic ether of the grape
spirit hide the flowery aroma of the otto of violet in solution
with it. This solves the paradox that English extract of
violet and its compounds, ' Excelsior,' &c., is at all times in
demand on the Continent, although the very flowers with
which we make it are grown there.
On the contrary, if an English perfumer attempts to make
eau de Portugal, &c., to bear any comparison, as a fine odour,
to that made by Lubin of Bond Street, London, without
using grape spirit, his attempt will prove a failure. True, he
makes eau de Portugal even with English corn spirit ; but
judges of the article — and they alone can stamp its merit —
discover instantly the same difference as the connoisseur
finds out between ' Patent British ' and foreign brandy.
Perhaps it may not be out of place here to observe that
what is sold in this country as British brandy is in truth
grape spirit ; that is, foreign brandy, very largely mixed with
English spirit! By this scheme, a real semblance to the
foreign brandy flavour is maintained ; the diff'erence in duty
upon English and foreign spirit enables the makers of the
' capsuled ' article to undersell those who vend the unsophis-
ticated Cognac.
Some chemists, not being very deep in the ' tricks of
trade,' have thought that some flavouring, or that oenanthic
ether, was used to impart to British spirit the Cognac aroma.
292
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
An article is even in the market called ' Essence of Cognac,'
but which is nothing more than very badly made butyric ether.
On the Continent a great deal of spirit is procured by the
fermentation of the molasses from beet-root ; this, of course,
finds its way into the market, and is often mixed with the
grape spirit ; so, also, in England we have spirit from
potatoes which is mixed with the corn spirit. These adultera-
tions, if we may so terni them, modify the relative odours of
the prirriitive alcohols.
A JAPANESE PERFUME.
Extract of rose, triple
„ vitivert .
„ patchouly
„ cedar
„ santal
„ verveine .
of each
i pint
KEW GARDEN NdSEGAY.
Esprit d6 neroli {pe'tale) : . . .
„ cassie
„ tubereuse
„ jasmin .
„ geranium
„ hiusk
;, ambergris
of each
I pmt
from pomade, of each J
3 oz.
STOLEN KISSES.
' The kisses of a thousand flowers,
Stolen from them while they sleep.' — R. Brough.
Extract of jonquil
„ orris
,; TOnquin
;, rose triple
„ acacia
„ civet
„ ambergris
Otto of citronella
„ verbena
of each
of each
I or
each
I quart
I pint
I drachm
+ ..
BOUQUETS.
29;
from pomacje, of each \
EAU DES MILLEFLEURS.
Esprit de rose triple i pint
„ rosedepommadev
„ tubereuse
„ jasmin .
„ fleur d'orange .
„ cassie
„ violette
Extract of cedar
„ vanilla ,
„ ambergris . - of each . . . 2 oz,
„ musk
Otto of almonds . ,1
„ neroli . . .\ pfeach . . 10 drops
„ cloves .
„ bergamot . . , , . . , i oz.
These ingredients are to remain together for at least a
fortnight, then filtered prior to sale.
MILLEFLEURS ET LAVENDER.
Essence of lavender {Mitckam)
Eau des millefleurs .
ipinf
DELCROIX'S MILLEFLEUR LAVENDER.
Spirits from grape ... . . . i pint
French otto of lavender . , . , , . i oz.
Extract of ambergris . . . . , . 2 „
The original 'lavender aux millefleurs' is that of Delcroix ;
its peculiar odour is due to the French otto of lavender, which,
although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto
of lavender ; hence the formula first given is f^f superior to
that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original
preparations.
There are several other compounds or bouquets, of which
lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take
294
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and
musk, lavender and mar^chale, &c., all of which are composed
of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent,
of any of the other ingredients.
Esprit de rose triple
Extrait de fleur d'orange
„ vitivert
„ vanilla
„ orris
„ Tonquin
Esprit de neroli
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
Otto of cloves .
,, santal .
BOUQUET DU MARECHAL.
of each
of each
of each
of each
I pint
• i ,.
. J drachm
EAU DE MOUSSELINE.
Bouquet de mar^chale
Extrait de cassie
„ jasmin .
„ tubereuse
„ rose
Otto of santal .
I pmt
v from pomade, of each . ^
2 drachms
BOUQUET DE MONTPELLIER.
Extrait de tubereuse
„ rose de pommade
„ „ triple
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
Otto of cloves .
„ bergamot .
of each
I pmt
i^ drachm
i oz.
A century ago Montpellier was the principal seat of the
manufacture of perfumery, and the name of the above scent
is handed down from a recipe of still earlier date. We find
BOUQUETS. 295
Evelyn reminding his kinsman, when about to make the
grand tour, that — ■
Montpellier was wont to be the place of rare opportunities for the
learning the many excellent receipts to make perfumes/sweet powders,
pomades, antidotes, and divers such curiosities, which I know (he adds) you
will not omit ; for though they are indeed but trifles in comparison with
more solid things, yet if pver you should affect to live a retired life hereafter,
you will take more pleasure in these recreations than you can now
imagine.
Doubtless the philosophical master of Sayes Court had
himself made trial of the recreation.
CAPRICE pE LA MODE.
Extrait de jasmin . . \ _
tubereuse . , ^^ ^^^^ _ _ ^ pi^^
„ cassie ...
„ fleur d'orange . 1
Otto of almonds iq drpps
„ nutmegs . 10 ,,
Extract of civet ...... \ pint
MAY FLOWERS.
of each . . \ pi(it
Extract of rose (de pommade)-
„ jasmine .
,, fleiir d'orange
„ cassie ,
„ vanilla . i „
Ottp of almonds .... . . \ drachm
;.EAP-YEAR BOUQUET.
' In leap-year they have power to choose ;
Ye men no charter to refuse.' — OLD SONG.
Exttait de tubereuse
„ jasmin .
„ rose triple
„ santal
„ vitivert .
„ patchouly
,, verbena
pf eac^i
. \ pint
■ ^ of each
■ i
• h ,.<
.)
■ i „
296
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
INTERNATIONAL BOUQUET OF ALL NATIONS.
Nations wherein tlie Odours
are produced.
Turkey .
Esprit de rose triple
ipint
Africa .
Extract of jasmine
4 „
England
lavender
i „
France .
„ tubereuse
i »
South America
„ vanilla .
k „
Timor .
„ santal .
\ „
Italy
,, violet .
I „
Hindoostan .
„ patchouly
i „
Ceylon .
Otto of citronella .
I drachm
Sardinia
„ lemons
ioz.
Tonquin
Extract of musk .
ipint
ISLE OF WIGHT BOUQUET.
Extract of orris
„ vitivert
„ santal
,, rose
4 pint
BOUQUET DU ROL
Extract of jasmine
violet
rose
vanilla
vitivert
musk
ambergris
Otto of bergamot
,, cloves
[ from pomade, of
I each . . I pint
of each
of each
I drachm
I oz.
BOUQUET DE LA REINE D'ANGLETERRE
:1
from pomade, of
each
I pmt
Esprit de rose
Extrait de violette .
„ tubereuse
„ fleur d'orange . . . . i.
Otto of bergamot 1 02
BOUQUETS. 297
KONDELETIA.
The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one
of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever
been made. Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen,
have probably taken the name of this odour from the Ronde-
letia, the Chyn-len of the Chinese ; or from the R. odorata of
the West Indies, which has a sweet odour. The plant itself
was so named after Rondeletius, a botanical writer of the
sixteenth century. We have before observed that there is a
similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by
certain odours, although derived from totally different sources:
that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract
of violet in such proportion that, although the odour is in-
creased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed.
Again : there are certain odours which, on being mixed in
due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and
peculiar to itself. This effect is exemplified by comparison
with the influence of certain colours, when mixed, upon the
nerve of vision : such, for instance, as when yellow and blue
are mixed, the result we call green ; or when blue and red are
united, the compound colour is known as puce or violet.
Now when the odour of lavender and odour of cloves are
mixed, they produce a new fragrance, i.e. Rondeletia ! It is
such combinations that constitute in reality ' a new perfume,'
which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained. Jas-
mine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others
in like manner ; proportion and relative strength, when so
mixed, must of course be studied, and the. substances used
accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dis-
solved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed
in equal proportions, the strongest odour is instantly indicated
by covering or hiding the presence of the other. In this way
we discover that patchouly, vitivert, lavender, and verbena are
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
the most potent of the vegetable odours, and that violet,
tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate.
Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too
much, when W^ express a desire to have the ^arr^e deference
paid to the olfactory nerve as tp ^he other nerves that influence
our physical pleasures and pains. By tutoring the qlfactory
nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter of the most subtle
nature in the atmosphere : not only that vyhich is pleasant, but
also such as are vin|iealthful. If an unpleasant odour is a
warning to seek a purer atmospherp, surely it is worth while
to cultivate ^hat ppwer which enables us to act up to that
warning fqr the gpneral benefit to health.
If we do not do so, some future Macau^ay will say of us
as David said of the idols, ' Noses have they, but they smell
not' Shakspeare tells us
A good nose i^ requisite. — Winter's Tale, iv. 3.
Again, he observes.
Their very noses had been counsellors.— //(?«ry Vm. i.
To return, however, to Rondeletia, it will be seen by the
annexed formula, that, besides the main ingredients to which
it oii'es its peculiar character — that is, c^oves and lavender —
it contains musk, vanilla, &c. These substances are used, in
these as in nearly all other bouquets, for the sole purpose of
fixing the more volatile odours ^o the handkerchief
Essence of Ront^ehtia.
Spirit (60 over proof)
Otto of lavender
„ cloves
„ roses .
„ bergamot
Extract of musk
„ vanilla
„ ambergris
of each
1 gallon
2 oz.
I »
3 drachms
I oz.
ipint
BOUQUETS.
299
The mixture must be made at least a month before it is
fit for sale. Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made
by adding | drachm otto of cloves to a pint of lavender mille-
fleur.
PIESSE S POSY.
Extract of rose (from pomade
Esprit de rose triple
Extract of jasmine
„ violet
„ verbena
„ cassie
Otto of lemons
„ bergamot
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
from poma^p, f|f
each
of each
of eacl^ .
of each
I pmt
k »
I1, oz.
SUAVE.
Extract of tubereuse
„ jasmine .
„ cassie .
„ rose
„ vanilla .
„ musk
„ ambergris
Otto of bergamot .
„ cloves
from pomade, of
each . . I pint
(or
each
5 oz.
2 „
4 )i
I drachm
SPRING FLOWERS.
Extract of rose
„ violet
„ rose triple
„ cassie .
Otto of bergamot .
Extract of ambergris
.\ from pomade, of
. I each
1 pmt
i\ oz.
2 drachms
I oz.
The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first
rank of the very best mixtures that have ever been made by
any manufacturing perfumer. Its odour is truly flowery, but
30O THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
peculiar to itself. Being unlike any other aroma, it cannot
well be imitated, chiefly because there is nothing that we are
acquainted with that at all resembles the odour of the esprit
de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to
which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so
that neither odour predominates, the peculiar character of
' Spring Flowers ' is due ; the little ambergris that is present
gives permanence to the odour upon the handkerchief, although,
from the very nature of the ingredients, it may be said to be
a fleeting odour. 'Spring Flowers' is an Englishman's in-
vention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Furope that does
not attempt an imitation,
BOUQUET OPOPONAX.
Pod musk . . . . , . . . I oz.
Vanilla beans , 8 „
Tonquin beang " 4 „
Infuse these for one month in
Spirit, 60 over proof, ..,.., 10 pints
then add
Tincture of orris A pints
Millefleur essence from mixed pomatums , . 8 „
Citron zeste 2 oz.
Bergamot ........ 2 „
Otto of rose . . , . , , . . il oz.
Otto of opoponax . .... i oz.
The addition of the latter gives a peculiar character to the
whole.
TULIP NO.SEGAY. '
Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful "to the eye,
are inodorous. The variety called the Due van Thol, how-
ever, yields an exquisite perfume, but is not used by the
manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odour. He,
BOUQUETS.
301
however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent
imitation thus :—
Extract of tubereuse
„ violet
„ jasmin
„ rose
„ orris
Otto of almonds
from pomade, of
each
I pint
30Z.
2 drops
VIOLETTE DES BOIS.
Under the head Violet, we have already explained the
method of preparing the extract or essence of that modest
flower. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture of violet,
which is very beautiful, under the title of the Violette des
Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus : —
Extract of violet
„ orris
„ cassie .
„ rose (from pomade)
Otto of almonds
I pint
3 dz.
3 „
3 „
3 drops
This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to
the customer than the pure violet.
RIFLE VOLUNTEERS GARLAND.
Alcohol I pint
\ oz.
8 drops
I pint
utto 01 neron .
„ rose .
„ lavender
■ of each
„ bergamot T
>
„ doves .
Extract of orris
.
„ jasmme ; . .
r of each
„ cassie .
„ musk
„ ambergris
of each
2j oz.
302 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
YACHT CLUB BOUQUET.
Extract of santal I pint
„ neroli i „
" >™: • •[ of each . . \ „
„ rose triple . . I
„ vanilla , . -in
Flowers of benzoin :f oz.
Extract of cassie .
„ violet
„ tubereuse
„ jasmine .
Esprit de rose triple
Extract of musk
„ ambergris
Otto of bergamot .
WEST END BOUQUET.
)■ of each . . i pint
. 3
of each . . J
I oz.
We have now completed the branch of the art of
perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes, or wet
perfumery. Although we have rather too much encroached
upon the space of this work, in giving the composition of so
many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are
popular. Those that are given are noted more particularly
for the peculiar character of their odour, and are selected
from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically
tried.
Those readers who require to know anything about the
simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their
respective alphabetical titles.
BOUQUETS.
303
FOUNTAIN RING.
As a means of carrying scent about the person, the
FOUNTAIN FINGER-RING has recently become famous.
The delight of all who have seen this little conceit is
most gratifying to its inventor. It is at once useful and
ornamental. By the least pressure, the wearer of the ring
can cause a jet of perfume to arise froni it at any time
desired — thus every one can carry with him td a Ball, concert,
or sick chamber, enough scent, sd refreShirig ! for the time
being.
The practical application of this inventiori causes a good
deal of merriment and laughter. A gehtleman who abhors
FOUNTAIN FINGER-RING.
perfume, unless it be snuff, 'squeezing' a lady's hand, will
receive a shower of the eternal frangipanni or kiss-me-quick,
much to the delight of all present at being thus sweetly
'found out.'
The rings can be filled with perfume with the greatest
ease — thus : Press the ball at the back of the ring nearly
flat, pour scent into a cup and dip the ring into it ; the
elasticity of the ball will then draw the perfume into the
interior till full.
304 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION IX.
Earth smiles in all her rich attire,
Here fragrant plants their odours shed.
Haydn's Creation.
THE previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet
Perfumes ; the present matter relates to Dry Perfumes —
sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of
heat, of volatile odorous resins, &c., &c. The perfumes
used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than
the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various
trees and shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere : that
they were very extensively used and much valued, we have
only to read the Scriptures for proofs : — ' Who is this that
cometh . . . perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all
the powders of the merchant .-' ' (Song of Solomon, iii. 6.)
Abstaining from the use of perfume in Eastern countries is
considered as a sign of humiliation. — 'And it shall come
to pass that instead of sweet smell there shall be stink.'
(Isaiah, iii; 2o, 24.) ' And they came and brought tablets.'
(Exod. XXXV. 22.) The word tablets in this passage means
perfume boxes, curiously inlaid, made of metal wood and
ivory. Some of these boxes may have been made in the
shape of buildings, which would explain the word palaces in
Psalm xlv. 8 : — ' All thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes,
and cassia, out of the ivory palaces, whereby they have made
thee glad.' From what is said in Matt. ii. 11, it would appear
that perfumes were considered among the most valuable.
THE POMANDER.
305
gifts that man could bestow : — ' And when they [the wise
men] had opened their treasures, they presented unto him
[Christ] gifts ; gold, and frankincense, and myrrh.' As far
as we are able to learn, all the perfumes used by the Egypt-
ians and Persians during the early period of the world vvere dry
perfumes, consisting of spikenard (Nardostachys Jatamansi),
myrrh, olibanum, and other gum resins, nearly all of which
are still in use by the manufacturers of odours. Among the
curiosities shown at Alnwick Castle is a vase that was taken
from an Egyptian catacomb. It is full of a mixture of gum
resins, &c., which evolve a pleasant odour to the present day,
although probably 3,000 years old. We have no doubt that
the original use of this vase and its contents was for perfum-
ing apartments, in the same way that pot-pourri is now
used.
A very interesting relic of the use of dry perfumes, about
the period of the fifteenth century, is
THE POMANDER.
The above illustration is drawn from an antique silver
pomander in the South Kensington Museum. The ring serves
the purpose, as it was commonly worn as a pendant to a lady's
girdle. When the cap under the ring is unscrewed, the
X
3o6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
pomander falls into six cores, each core being attached at its
base with a hinge to the central column ; a slide opens at the
angle of the core for the insertion of fragrant powders,
camphor, vinegar on sponge, &c. Some of the cores being
perforated has given rise to the common vinaigrette.
Chambers in his ' Book of Days ' says : —
The orange appears to have been used as a pomander soon after its
introduction into England. Cavendish describes Cardinal Wolsey enter-
ing a crowded chamber ' holding in his hand a very fair orange, whereof
the meat or substance within was taken out, and filled up again with the
part of a sponge, wherein was vinegar and other confections against the
pestilent airs ; the which he most commonly smelt unto, passing among
the press, or else he was pestered with many suiters.'
Sir Thomas Gresham, in his celebrated portrait by Sir Antonio More,
holds in his left hand a small object resembling an orange, but which is a
pomander. This sometimes consists of a dried Seville orange, stuffed
with cloves and other spices ; and being esteemed a fashionable preserva-
tive against infection, it frequently occurs in old portraits, either suspended
to the girdle or held in the hand. In the eighteenth century, the signifi-
cation of this object has become so far forgotten, that, instead of poman-
ders, bnnd fide oranges were introduced into portraits, a practice which
Goldsmith has happily satirised in his ' Vicar of Wakefield,' where seven
of the Flamboroughs are drawn with seven oranges, &c.
The pouncet-box mentioned by Shakspeare I imagine to
be nothing more than a variety of dry scent-box.
Hotspur. And twixt his finger and his thumb he held
A pouncet-box, which ever and anon he gave
His nose and took 't away again.
He made me mad
To see him shine so briskly and smell so sweet.
King Henry IV., act i. scene 3.
SACHET POWDERS.
The French and English perfumers concoct a great
variety of these substances, which, being put into silk bags
SACHET POWDERS. 307
or ornamental envelopes, find a ready sale, being both good
to smell and economical as a means of imparting an agree-
able odour to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. The
following formula shows their composition. Every material
is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and
afterwards sifted.
Acacia Sachet.
Cassie flower heads i lb.
Orris powder i „
This is a very nice sachet, and smells something like tea.
The materials employed in the manufacture of sachet
powders are those only which retain an odour or are fragrant
in their dried state, which include nearly all that are termed
herbs in domestic economy, such as lemon, thyme, mint. Sec,
and some few leaves of plants, such as those of the orange
tree, citron tree, &c. Very few blossoms, however, except
lavender, rose, and cassie, have any fragrance when dried.
The jasmine, tubereuse, violet, and mignonette, retain none of
their primitive smell when thus treated, indicating clearly
that the odours of these plants are generated only during
their life and are not stored up in tljeir petals, as is the case
with the others named.
The engraving on the following page shows the warm
air cupboards, where herbs are dried for this purpose.
From the rafters of the roof of the. drying-house are sus-
pended, in bunches, all the herbs that the grower cultivates.
To accelerate the desiccation of rose leaves, and other petals,
the drying-house is fitted up with large cupboards, which
are slightly warmed with a convolving flue from a fire below.
The flower buds are placed upon trays made of canvas,
stretched upotl a frame, each being not less than twelve feet
long by four feet wide. When charged, they are placed on
shelves in the warm cupboards till dry.
3o8
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Sachet au Chypre.
Ground rose- wood
„ cedar- wood
„ santal-wood
Otto of rose- wood
Mix and sift ; it is then fit for sale.
I lb.
I „
I .,
3 drachms
DRYING HOUSE.
Fi
angipanni Sachet.
Orris-root powder
. 3 lbs.
Vitivert powder
. Jib.
Santal-wood powdei
• i ,,
Otto of neroli .
.
„ rose .
. r of each
. I drachm
„ santal .
Musk pods, ground
. I oz.
„ civet
i,,
SACHET POWDERS. 309
The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as
being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangi-
panni. Mutio Frangipanni was an alchemist, evidently of
some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-
solis, sun-dew, an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a
stomachic, of which he is said to have been the inventor,
composed of wine in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise,
and musk.
Heliotrope Sachet.
Powdered orris 2 lbs.
Rose leaves, ground i lb.
Tonquin beans, ground . . . . | „
Vanilla beans 4 „
Grain musk . . j oz.
Otto of almonds 5 drops
* When well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit for sale.
It is one of the best sachets made, and is so perfectly att
naturel in its odour to the flower from which it derives its
name, that no person unacquainted • with its composition
would, for an instant, believe it to be any other than the
' real thing.'
Lavender Sachet.
Lavender flowers, ground ... . i lb.
Gum benzoin, in powder . . • i u
Otto of lavender i oz.
A hundred years ago Shenstone, the Shropshire poet, wrote
of dried lavender : —
And lavender, whose spikes of azure bloom
Shall be ere while in arid bundles bound.
To lurk amidst her labours of the loom.
And crown her kerchiefs clean with mickle rare perfume.
And more than two hundred years ago, Izaak Walton, in
commendation of the ' honest ale-house ' where he proposed
to entertain his friend, said : — ' We shall find a cleanly room,
3IO
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
lavender in the window, and twenty ballads stuck about the
wall.' And again : — ' Let's go to that house, for the linen looks
white, and smells of lavender, and I long to be in a pair of
sheets that smell so.'
Marichale Sachet.
Powder of santal-wood ^ lb.
„ orris root i „
Rose leaves, ground \ „
Cloves, ground . . . . . . • i «
Cassia bark \ „
Grain musk i drachm
Mousseline Sachet.
Vitivert, in powder .
Santal-wood
Orris ....
Black-currant leaves (casse)
Benzoin, in powder .
Otto of thyme .
„ roses .
of each
Millefleur Sachet.
Lavender flowers, ground
Orris
Rose leaves
Benzoin .
Tonquin .
Vanilla
Santal
Musk and civet each
Cloves, ground
Cinnamon
AUspice .
I lb.
i„
of each
of each
of each
4 3)
5 drops
\ drachm
I lb.
2 drachms
ilb.
Portugal Sachet.
Dried orange peel i lb.
„ lemon peel j „
„ orris root | „
Otto of orange peel i oz.
„ neroli l drachm
„ lemon grass i »
SACHET POWDERS, 311
Patchouly Sachet.
Patrhouly herb, ground i lb.
Otto of patchouly \ drachm
Patchouly herb is often sold in its natural state, as imported,
tied up in bundles of half a pound each.
Pot-Pourri.
This is a mixture of dried flowers and spices not ground.
Dried lavender i lb.
Whole rose leaves i „
Crushed orris (coarse) ■ i »
Broken cloves . . . .\
„ cinnamon . . . I of each . . 2 oz.
„ allspice . . .]
Table salt i lb.
We need scarcely observe that the salt is only used to
increase the bulk and weight of the product, in order to sell
it cheap.
Olla-Podrida.
This is a similar preparation to pot-pourri. No regular
form can be given for it, as it is generally made, or ' knocked
up,' with the refuse and spent materials derived from other
processes in the manufacture of perfumery ; such as the spent
vanilla after the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla,
or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, orris from the
tincture, Tonquin beans after tincturation, &c., &c., mixed
up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs.
Rose Sachet.
Rose heels or leaves I lb.
Santal-wood, ground \ „
Otto of roses i oz.
312
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Santal- Wood Sachet.
This is a good and economical sachet, and simply con-
sists of the ground wood. Santal-wood is to be purchased
from some of the wholesale drysalters ; the drug-grinders
are the people to reduce it to powder ; any attempt to do
so at home will be found unavailing, on account of its. tough-
ness.
Sachet {without a name).
Dried thyme . . . .\
" lemon-thyme. . ^^ ^^^^ ^
„ mmt
„ marjoram
„ lavender
„ rose heels
Ground cloves
Calamus powder
Musk, in grain
ilb.
i „
1 „
2 OZ.
I lb.
I drachm
Vervein Sachet.
Lemon-peel, drfed and ground
Lemon-thyme ....
Otto of lemon-grass
„ „ peel .
„ bergamot
I lb.
I drachm
T OZ.
Vitivert Sachet.
The fibrous roots of the AnatJierum muricatum, being
ground, constitute the sachet bearing the name as above,
derived from the Tamool name, vittie vayer, and called by
the Parisian vetiver. Its odour resembles mj'rrh. Vitivert
is more often sold tied up in bunches, as imported from India,
than ground, and is used for the prevention of moth rather
than as a perfume.
Violet Sachet.
Black-currant leaves , jl,
Cassie flower heads ... r
PEAU D'ESPAGNE. 313
Rose heels or leaves . . . . . t lb.
Orris root powder ... . .2 lbs.
Otto of almonds i drachm
Grain musk i «
Gum benzoin, in powder ^ lb.
Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in
a glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale.
There are many other sachets manufactured besides those
already given ; but, for actual trade purposes, there is no ad-
vantage in keeping a greater variety than those named.
There are, however, many other substances used in a similar
way ; the most popular is the
PEAU D'ESPAGNE.
Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is highly perfumed
leather, prepared thus :^Good sound pieces of wash-leather
are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved
some odoriferous gum resins :^otto of neroli, otto of rose,
santal, of each half an ounce ; otto of lavender, verbena,
bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce ; otto of cloves and
cinnamon, of each two drachms ; with any others thought fit.
In half a pint of spirit, dissolve about four ounces of gum
benzoin, and add it to the mixed ottos : now place the skin
to steep in the mixture for a day or so, then remove it, and
squeeze out the superfluous scent ; finally, let the skin dry
by exposure to the air. A paste is now to be made by
rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with one drachm of
grain-musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum
tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence ; a little of any
of the ottos that may be left from the steep, stirred in with the
civet, &c., greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body ;
the skin, being cut up into pieces of about four inches square,
is then to be spread over, plaster fashion, with the last-named
314 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
compost : two pieces being put together, having the civet
plaster inside them, are then to be placed between sheets of
paper, weighted or pressed, and left to dry thus for a week ;
finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be
enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the
taste of the vendor.
Card or leather thus prepared evolve a pleasant odour
for years, and hence are frequently called ' the inexhaustible
sachet.' Being flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-
paper.
The lasting odour of Russia leather is familiar to all and
pleasing to many ; its perfume is due to the aromatic sanders
wood, with which it is tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil
of the bark of the birch-tree, with which it is curried. The
odour of Russia leather is, however, not rechercM enough to
be considered as a perfume ; but, nevertheless, leather can
be impregnated, by steeping in the various ottos, with any
sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree,
especially with otto of santal or lemon grass ( Verbena). In
this manner the odour of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly
varied, and gives much satisfaction, on account of the per-
manence of its perfume. Another way of making a good flat
sachet, is to make a mixture of civet and musk, thinned down
by rubbing in a mortar with liquid gum, spreading this com-
pound on card-board ; when dry, the card may be plaited
over with coloured ribbons.
PERFUMED LETTER-PAPER.
If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with
paper, the Jatter absorbs sufficient odour to be considered as
' perfumed.' It is obvious that paper for writing upon must
not be touched with any of the odorous tinctures or ottos, on
account of any such matters interfering with the fluidity of
CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS. 315
the ink and action of the pen in writing upon it ; therefore,
by the process of infection, as it were, alone can writing-paper
be perfumed to advantage.
Besides the sachets mentioned, there are many other
substances applied as dry perfumery, such as scented wad-
ding, used for quilting into all sorts of articles adapted for use
in a lady's boudoir. Pin-cushions, jewel-cases, and the like,
are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply steeped in
some strong essence, of musk, &c.
PERFUMED BOOK-MARKS.
We have seen that leather can be impregnated with
odoriferous substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne ;
just so is card-board treated prior to being made up into
book-marks. In finishing them for sale, taste alone dictates
their design ; some are ornamented with beads, others with
embroidery.
SCENTING GEMS.
Curiosity is excited to know how these gems are capable
of yielding fragrance like a natural flower, and from what
country they come.
As they are moved about in the petite boite which contains
them, we see the beauty of the kaleidoscope, and smell the
■most delightful odour. The truth is, that under the silver
paper upon which the gems rest there is card punched to the
size of the box ; on each card is brushed a mixture of musk,
civet, and otto of rose, rubbed together with a little mucilage
of tragacanth.
CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS.
Cassolettes and printaniers are little ivory boxes, of
various designs, perforated in order to allow the escape of the
3i6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
odours contained therein. The paste used for filling these
' ivory palaces whereby we are made glad,' ' is composed of
equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla
pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia,
or gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste.
These things are now principally used for perfuming the
pocket or reticule, much in the same way that ornamental
silver and gold vinaigrettes are used.
SCENTED SHELLS.
Venetian Shells, which are found in such abundance on
the shores of the Adriatic Sea, the Greek and Maldive
Islands, are cleansed with weak muriatic acid ; they then
assume their pearly lustre. A mixture of ottos is made, say
half a pound of bergamot, a quarter of a- pound of santal-
wood, and two ounces each lavender and rosewood ; in this
mixture is rubbed one drachm of civet, and two drachms of
musk.
The shells are then steeped into the scent, which ascends
into their convolving tube. When dry, these shells will serve
for perfuming jewel-cases and work-boxes.
INCENSE.
There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of
pastils, or pastilles, as they are more often called, from the
French, has been derived from the use of incense at the altars
of the temples during the religious services : — ' According to
the custom of the priest's office, his lot [Zacharias'] was to
burn incense when he went into the temple of the Lord'
(Luke i. 9). 'And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense
upon. . . . And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense
' Psalm xlv. 8.
JNCENSE.
317
every morning, when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when
he lightetb the lamps, he shall burn incense upon it'
(Exod. XXX. I, ^).
The Censer.
' On the walls of every temple in Egypt, from Meroe to
Memphis, the censer is depicted smoking before the pre-
HIGH PRIEST AND ALTAR.
siding deity of the place ; on the walls of the tombs glow in
bright colours the preparation of spices and perfumes.' In
the British Museum there is a vase (No. 2,595) the body of
which is intended to contain a lamp, the sides being per-
forated to admit the heat from the flame to act upon the pro-
jecting tubes, which are intended to contain ottos of flowers
placed in the small vases at the end of the tubes ; the heat
3i8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
volatilises the ottos, and quickly perfumes an apartment.
This vase or censer is from an Egyptian catacomb.
The censer, as used in the ' holy places,' is made either of
brass, silver, or gold, and often set with precious stones; its
form is represented in the engraving below, the upper part
being perforated to allow the escape of the perfume.' In the
outer vessel is placed an inner one of copper, which can be
taken out and filled with ignited charcoal. When in use, the
THE CENSER.
ignited carbon is placed in the censer, and is then covered with
the incense ; the heat rapidly volatilises it in visible fumes.
The effect is assisted by the incense-bearer swinging the censer,
attached to three long chains, in the air. The manner of swing-
ing the censers varies slightly in the churches in Rome, in
France, and in England, some holding' it above the head.
' The word "Perfume" is derived from the Latin per-fumus, by smoke,
because the first perfumes used were of the smoke kind.
TN CENSE. 319
At La Madeleine, the method is always to give the censer a
full swing at the greatest length of the chains with the right
hand, and to catch it up short with the left hand.
The engraving below represents an ancient incense case
and burner, the original of which is in silver, eleven inches
long. It is in the possession of William Wells, Esq., of
Holme Wood House, Whittlesea, Cambridgeshire. It was
found during the draining of Whittlesea Mere. Its form and
construction are well suited for the object in view ; when not in
use, it is an elegant article of vertu for the boudoir, and, when
required, contains within the boat the incense and matches for
SILVER INCENSE CASE, FOUND IN WHITTLESEA MERE, CAMBRIDGESHIRE.
igniting it. It is probable that this article may have belonged
to Ramsey Abbey, a supposition derived from the ram's heads
at the fore and stern of the vessel.
It would appear, from the following extracts, that incense
has been frequently used in the Church of England since the
Reformation : —
1603. Two pounds of frankincense were burnt in the church of Augus-
tine, Farringdon within, London. — Malcolm's Londinium Redivivum,
ii. 88.
1626. 'Paid for frankincense, 2^.' — Churchwarden^ Accounts of Great
Wig'ston, Leicestershire.
1631. 'The country parson takes order .... secondly, that the
320 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
church be swept and kept clean without dust or cobwebs, and at great
festivals strewed and stuck with boughs, and perfumed with incense.' —
George Herbert's Priest to the Temple, chap. xiii.
Temp. James I. ' A triquertral censer, wherein the clerk putteth
frankincense at the reading of the first lesson. The navicuia, like the
keel of a boat, with a half cover and foot, out of which the frankincense is
poured.' — Furniture of Bp. Andrewes's Chapel, Canterbury's Doom, p. 122.
Temp. Charles I. ' In Peter House there was on the altar a pot,
which they usually called the incense pot. ... A little boat, out of which
the frankincense is poured, which Dr. Cosins has made use of in Peter
House where he burned mc^xm..' —Canterbury's Dootn, pp. 74, 123.
Ibid. ' Upon some altars there was a pot called the incense pot.' — Neal's
Puritans, ii. 224.
1683. In the accounts of St. Nichola';, Durham : — ' For frankincense
at the Bishop's coming, 2s. 6d.' — Surtees's Durham, iv. 52, fol. 1840.
1684. See Evelyn's Diary, March 30, 1684.
1760. ' Inthe coronation procession of George III. appeared the King's
groom of the vestry, in a scarlet dress, holding a perfuming pan, burning
perfumes, as at previous coronations.' — Thomson's Coronation of George
III.-'
Several samples of ' incense prepared for altar service,' as
sent out by Mr. Martin of Liverpool, appear to be nothing
more than gum olibanum of indifferent quality, and not at all
like the composition as especially commanded by God, the
form of which is given in full in Exodus, xxx., 34 sqq., which,
being religiously adhered to, should consist of stacte, onycha,
galbanam, and frank-incense in equal proportions.
The pastils of the moderns are really but a very slight
modification of the incense of the ancients. For many years
they were called Osselets of Cyprus. When Richard I., at
the time of the Crusades, proclaimed himself King of Cyprus,
perfumes of various kinds were brought from that Island
which has again fallen to the throne of England. In the old
books on pharmacy a certain mixture of the then known gum
resins was called Suffitus, which being thrown upon hot ashes
produced a vapour which was considered to be salutary in
many diseases.
' R. Hills in Notes and Queries.
mCENSE AND PASTILS. 321
It is under the same impression that pastils and fumi-
gating ribbon are now used, or at least to cover the mal odmr
of the sick chamber.
There is not much variety in the formula of the pastils
that are now in use ; we have first the
Indian or Yellow Pastils.
Santal-wood, in powder i lb.
Gum benzoin ij „
» Tolu i „
Otto of santal . . . . ]
„ cassia . . . . I of each . . 3 drachms
„ cloves . . . .1
Nitrate of potass ij oz.
Mucilage of tragacantha, g. s. to make the whole into a stiff paste.
The bezoin, santal-wood, and Tolu are to be powdered,
and mixed by sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre,
being dissolved in the mucilage, is then added. After well
beating in a mortar, the pastils are formed in shape with a
pastil mould, and gradually dried.
The Chinese josticks are of a similar composition, but
contain no Tolu. Josticks are burned as incense in the
temples of Booddh in the Celestial Empire, and to such an
extent as to greatly enhance the value of santal-wood.
Incense Powders.
Santal-wood powder i lb.
Cascarilla bark powder . .] ^fg^^jj ,
Benzoin „ . .[ ■ J »
Vitivert „ 2 oz.
Nitrate of potass (saltpetre) 2 „
Grain musk ' . \ drachm
Sift the whole well together several times through a fine sieve.
Seraglio Pastils.
The clous fumants, seraglio pastils, aromatic pastils. Sec,
are prepared in various ways. They invariably contain
y
322
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
aromatic powders, resins or balsams, carbon and nitre, th(
whole compacted by a thick mucilage of gum tragacanth
The following are among the most usual formulae : —
Sweet-smelling Trochisci, Clous Fumants, Fumigating Pastils.
Benzoin
. 60 grammes
Balsam of Tolu ...
. 8
Laudanum
• 4
Santal-wood citrin . . . .
IS
Poplar charcoal
. 190
Nitre .... . .
. 8
Mucilage of gum tragacanth .
• 9-5
This paste is made up into small cones, which are dried at a
low temperature, and are lit at the top.
Perfumer^ Pastils.
Well-burned charcoal
. I lb.
Benzoin .
.
3
4 JJ
Tolu
of each
Vanilla pods .
• i „
Cloves
Otto of santal .
„ neroli .
of each
. 2 drachms
Nitre
. i| oz.
Mucilage tragacantha
.
. q. s.
Piesse's Pastils.
Willow charcoal
. ilb.
Benzoic acid .
. 6 oz.
Otto of thyme
"
,, caraway
„ rose .
„ lavender
\ of each
. i drachm
„ clove? ,
,, santal .
Grain musk
I
Pure civet
- i „
Prior to mixing, dissolve } oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordin-
ary rose water ; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then
allow it to dry in a warm place.
USE OF CHARCOAL IN PASTILS. 323
When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed
ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting (the
sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and mortar), it
is finally beaten up in a mortar with enough mucilage to bind the whole
together, and the less that is used the better.
A great variety of formulae have been published for the
manufacture of pastils ; nine-tenths of them contain some
woods or bark, or aromatic seeds. Now, when such sub-
stances are burned, the chemist knows that if the Hgneous
fibre contained in them undergoes combustion — the slow
combustion — materials are produced which have far from a
pleasant odour ; in fact, the smell of burning wood predomi-
nates over the volatilised aromatic ingredients ; it is for this
reason alone that charcoal is used in lieu of other substances.
The use of charcoal in a pastil is merely for burning, pro-
ducing, during its combustion, the heat required to quickly
volatilise the perfuming material with which it is surrounded.
The product of the combustion of charcoal is inodorous, and
therefore does not in any way interfere with the fragrance of
the pastil. Such is, however, not the case with any in-
gredients that may be used that are not in themselves
perfectly volatile by the aid of a small increment of heat. If
combustion takes place, which is always the case with all the
aromatic woods that are introduced into pastils, we have, besides
the volatilised otto which the wood contains, all the com-
pounds naturally produced by the slow burning of ligneous
matter, spoiling the true odour of the other ingredients vola-
tilised.
There are, it is true, certain kinds of fumigation adopted
occasionally where these products are the materials sought
by such fumigation, as when brown paper is allowed to
smoulder — i.e. undergo slow combustion — in a room for the
purpose of covering bad smells. By the quick combustion of
tobacco — that is, combustion with flame — there is no odour
developed ; but by slow combustion, according to the method
324 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
adopted by those wlio indulge in 'the weed,' the familiar
aroma of ' the cloud ' is generated, and did not exist ready
formed in the tobacco. Now a well-made pastil should not
develop any odour of its own, but simply volatilise that
fragrant matter, whatever it be, used in its manufacture. We
think that the fourth formula given above carries out that
object.
It does not follow that the formulae that are here given
produce at all times the odour that is most approved ; it is
evident that in pastils, as with other perfumes, a great deal
depends upon taste. Many persons very much object to the
aroma of benzoin, while they greatly admire the fumes of
cascarilla.
THE PERFUME LAMP.
Shortly after the discovery of the peculiar property of
spongy platinum remaining incandescent in the vapour of
rF.Rl'UME LAMP.
alcohol, the late Mr. I. Deck, of Cambridge, made a very
ingenious application of it for the purpose of perfuming apart-
ments. An ordinary spirit lamp is filled with Hungary water,
or other scented spirit, and 'trimmed' with a wick in the usual
manner. Over the centre of the wick, and standing about the
eighth of an inch above it, a small ball of spongy platinum is
PERFUME LAMPS. 325
placed, maintained in its position by being fixed to a thin
glass rod, which is inserted into the wick.
Thus arranged, the lamp is to be lighted and allowed to
burn until the platinum becomes red-hot; the flame may then
be blown out ; nevertheless the platinum remains incandescent
for an indefinite period. The proximity of a red-hot ball to
a material of the volatile quality of scented spirit, diffused
over a surface of a cotton wick, as a matter of course causes
its rapid evaporation, and, as a consequence, the diffusion of
odour.
Instead of the lamp being charged with Hungary water,
we may use eau de Portugal, verveine, or any other spirituous
essence. Several perfumers make a particular mixture for
this purpose, which is called
Eau a Bruler.
Hungary water, or eau de Cologne . . . i pint
Tincture of benzoin
„ vanilla .
Otto of thyme .
„ mint .
„ nutmeg
2 oz,
I „
of each . \ drachm
Another form, called
Eaii pour BrAler.
Rectified spirit i pint
Benzoic acid . . . . , . • . J oz.
Otto of thyme. . . ■ I of each . . i drachm
„ caraway . , .J
„ bergamot 2 oz.
Persons who are in the habit of using the perfume lamps
will, however, frequently observe that, whatever difference
there may be in the composition of the fluid introduced into
the lamp, there is a degree of similarity in the odour of the
vapour when the platinum is in action. This arises from the
fact that, so long as there is the vapour of alcohol mixed with
326 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
oxygen air, passing over red-hot platinum, certain definite
products always result — namely, acetic acid, aldehyde, and
acetal, which are formed more or less, — and impart a peculiar
and rather agreeable fragrance to the vapour, but which over-
powers any other odour that is present.
FUMIGATING PAPER.
There are two modes of preparing this article : —
1. Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip them into
a solution of alum — say, alum, one ounce ; water, one pint.
After they are thoroughly moistened, let them be well dried ;
upon one side of this paper spread a mixture of equal parts
of gum benzoin, olibanum, and either balsams of Tolu or Peru,
or the benzoin may be used alone. To spread the gum, &c.,
it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel
and poured thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the
surface with a hot spatula. When required for use, slips of
this paper are held over a candle or lamp, in order to evapo-
rate the odorous matter, but not to ignite it. The alum in
the paper prevents it, to a certain extent, from burning.
2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solu-
tion of saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt
to one pint of water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried.
Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin,
&c., are to be dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit, and
with a brush spread upon both sides of the paper ; or the paper
may be dipped into the solution spread out in a broad flat
dish, and then, being hung up, rapidly dries.
Slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills, to be ig-
nited, and then to be blown out.
The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow com-
bustion, diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of
the odoriferous gums. If two of these sheets of paper be
RIBBON OF BRUGES.
327
pressed together before the surface is dry, they will join and
become as one. When cut into slips, they form what are
called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.
RIBBON OF BRUGES
For sweet fumigation.
VASE AND SECTION.
Make two tinctures in separate bottles, thus : —
jVo. I Bottle.
Orris tincture i pint
Gum benzoin i lb.
Gum myrrh :t °^-
No. 2 Bottle.
Alcohol i pint
Pod musk i oz.
Otto rose .....•• i drachm
Let both stand one month. Now take 150 yards of undressed cotton
tape, and steep it in a solution of one ounce of saltpetre in a pint of hot
rose water ; then dry it ; finally, filter the two tinctures, and mix them ;
then steep the ribbon into it ; when dry, coil it up, and place it in the vase
as depicted above. Draw out an inch of the ribbon, light it, blow out the
328
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
flame, and, as it smoulders, a fragrant vapour will rise into the air. When
the ribbon has smouldered down to the bottom of the vase-cup it will no
longer burn, consequently it spontaneously ' goes out,' which is both ad-
vantageous and economical under some circumstances.
I was led to this contrivance from a knowledge of the con-
struction of the Davy Safety Lamp, which prevents fire from
passing a small aperture, in consequence of the cooling effect
of the surrounding body.
For a certain time new apparatus, called evaporators, of
EVAPORATOR.
several kinds have been in use, which, by means of a rapid
current of air, diffuse in the atmosphere, in the form of vapour,
alcoholic liquids charged with perfume. We shall here give
an account of the two kinds of these instruments most
commonly used.
The first is adapted for any bottle containing the liquid
to be vaporised. It is composed of two glass tubes united
by a movable hinge. One of the tubes terminates in a cone
with a very small aperture.
EVAPORATORS.
32g
In using this apparatus the tubes are placed at right angles
to each other ; the tube with the conic end is plunged into
the bottle so that its lower extremity shall be not far from the
bottom of the bottle. Then breathe strongly into the hori-
zontal tube, and, the current of air drawing up the liquid in
the bottle by the vertical tube, this gets mixed with the
vapourised alcohol, the vehicle of the perfumes contained in
the bottle.
EVAPORATOR.
The second apparatus consists of a bottle holding the
liquid, and, at the same time, the pulverising arrangement.
In this case the object is attained not by a draught, but by
means of pressure on the liquid, which rises in the plunger
and mixes with a certain quantity of air at the time that
pre.'isure is applied to the indiarubber ball forming the top of
the apparatus.
This system is to be preferred to the former as more
convenient, and as giving a finer division to the vapour.
33° THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION X.
PERFUMED SOAP.
THE word Soap, or Sope, from the Greek sapon, first
occurs in the works of Pliny and Galen. Pliny informs
us that soap was first discovered by the Gauls, that it was
composed of tallow and ashes, and that the German soap was
reckoned the best. According to Sismondi, the French
historian, a soap-maker was included in the retinue of Charle-
magne. At one time most of the soap used in Europe was
made at the little seaport town of Savona, near Genoa, whence
the French name of soap, savon.
At Pompeii (overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius A.D.
79), a soap-boiler's shop with soap in it was discovered during
some excavations made there not many years ago.'
From these statements it is evident that the manufacture
of soap is of very ancient origin ; indeed, Jeremiah figuratively
mentions it : — ' For though thou wash thee with natron, and
take thee much sope, yet thine iniquity is marked before me '
( Jer. ii. 22). As does also Malachi : — ' He is like a refiner's fire,
and like fullers' sope' (Mai. iii. 2).
Mr. Wilson says that the earliest record of the soap trade
in England is to be found in a pamphlet in the British Museum,
printed in 1641, entitled, 'A Short Account of the Soap Busi-
ness.' It speaks more particularly about the duty, which was
then levied for the first time, and concerning certain patents
' Starke's Letteis from Italy.
SOAPS. 331
which were granted to persons, chiefly Popish recusants, for
some pretended new invention of white soap, ' which in truth
was not so.' Sufficient is said here to prove that at that time
soap-making was no inconsiderable art.
Prior to the removal of the excise duty upon soap, in 1853,
it was a commercial impossibility for a perfumer to manu-
facture soap, because the law did not allow less than one ton
of soap to be made at a time — Moritz Becket Bertram, of
Hackney, London, being the only exception, to whom a special
licence was granted in 1839 for an improved method of manu-
facture called the cold process of soap-making. This law,
which, with certain modifications, had been in force since the
reign of Charles I., confined the actual manufacture of that
article to the hands of a few capitalists. Such law, however,
was but of little importance to the perfumer, as a soap-boiling
plant and apparatus is not very compatible with a laboratory
of flowers ; yet, in some exceptional instances, these excise
regulations interfered with him ; such, for instance, as that in
making soft soap of lard and potash, known, when perfumed,
as Cremt d' Amande ; or, unscented, as a Saponaceous Cream,
which has, in consequence of that law, been entirely thrown
into the hands of our Continental neighbours.
It would be out of place here to enter into the details of
soap-making, because perfumers do not manufacture that
substance, but are merely ' remelters,' to use a trade term.
The dyer purchases his dye-stuffs from the drysalters already
fabricated, and these are merely modified under his hands to
the various purposes he requires : so with the perfumer ; he
purchases the various soaps in their raw state from the soap-
makers, these he mixes by remelting, then scents and colours
according to the article to be produced.
The primary soaps are divided into hard and soft soaps :
the hard soaps contain soda as the base ; those which are soft
are prepared with potash. These are again divisible into
332 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
varieties, according to the fatty matter employed in their
manufacture, also according to the proportion of alkali. The
most important of these to the perfumer is what is termed
curd soap, as it forms the basis of all the highly-scented
soaps.
Curd Soap is a nearly neutral soap, of pure soda and fine
tallow.
Oil Soap, as made in England, is an uncoloured combi-
nation of olive oil and soda, hard, close grain, and contains
but little water in combination.
Castile Soap, as imported from Spain, is a similar com-
bination, but is coloured by protosulphate of iron. The
solution of the salt being added to the soap after it is manu-
factured, from the presence of alkali, decomposition of the
salt takes place, and protoxide of iron is diffused through the
soap of its well-known black colour, giving the familiar
marbled appearance to it. When the soap is cut up into bars,
and exposed to the air, the protoxide passes by absorption of
oxygen into peroxide ; hence, a section of a bar of Castile
soap shows the outer edge red-marbled while the interior is
black-marbled. Some Castile soap is not artificially coloured
but a similar appearance is produced by the use of a barilla
or soda containing sulphuret of the alkaline base, and at other
times from the presence of an iron salt.
Marine Soap is a cocoa-nut-oil soap, of soda, containing
a great excess of alkali, and much water in combination.
Yellow Soap is a soda soap, of tallow, resin, and
lard, &c., &c.
Palm Soap is a soda soap of palm oil, retaining the pecu-
liar odour and colour of the oil unchanged. The odoriferous
principle of palm oil, resembling that from orris-root, can be
dissolved out of it by tincturation with alcohol ; like ottos
generally, it remains intact in the presence of an alkali ; hence,
soap made of palm oil retains the odour of the oil.
REMELTIh'G SOAP. 333
Fig Soft Soap is a combination of oils, principally olive
oil of the commonest kind, with potash.
Naples Soft Soap is a fish oil (mixed with Lucca oil)
and potash, coloured brown for the London shavers, retaining,
when pure, its unsophisticated ' fishy ' odour.
The public require a soap that will not shrink and change
shape after they purchase it. It must make a profuse lather
during the act of washing. It must not leave the skin rough
after using it. It must be either quite inodorous, or have a
pleasant aroma. None of the above soaps possess all these
qualities in union, and, therefore, to produce such an article is
the object of the perfumer in his remelting process.
The above soaps constitute the real body or base of all
the fancy scented soaps as made by the perfumers, which
are mixed and remelted according to the following formula : —
REMELTING SOAP.
The remelting process is exceedingly simple. The bar
soap is first cut up into thin slabs, by pressing them against a
wire fixed upon the working bench. This cutting wire (piano
wire is the kind) is made taut upon the bench by being
attached to two screws. These screws regulate the height of
the wire from the bench, and hence the thickness of the slabs
from the bars. The soap is cut up into thin slabs, because
it would be next to impossible to melt a bar whole, on
account of soap being one of the worst conductors of heat.
The melting-pan is an iron vessel of various sizes, capable
of holding from 28 lbs. to 3 cwt., heated by a steam jacket, or
by a .water bath. The soap is put into the pan by degrees, or
what is, in the vernacular, called ' rounds,'— that is, the thin
slabs are placed perpendicularly all round the side of the pan ;
a few ounces of water are at the same time introduced, the
steam of which assists the melting. The pan being covered
334
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
up, in about half an hour the soap will have 'run down.'
Another round is then introduced, and so continued every
half-hour until the whole 'melting 'is finished. The more
water a soap contains, the easier is it melted ; hence a round
of marine soap, or of new yellow soap, will run down in half
the time that it requires for old soap.
When different soaps are being remelted to form one kind
when finished, the various sorts are to be put into the pan in
alternate rounds, but each round must consist only of one
kind, to ensure uniformity of condition. As the soap melts,
in order to mix it, and to break up lumps, &c., it is from
FRAME AND SLAB GAUGE.
time to time ' crutched.' The ' crutch ' is an instrument or
tool for stirring up the soap ; its name is indicative of its
form, a long handle with a short cross — an inverted J_ curved
to fit the curve of the pan. When the soap is all melted, it is
then coloured, if so required, and then the perfume is added,
the whole being thoroughly incorporated with the crutch.
The soap is then turned into the ' frame.' The frame is a
box made in sections, in order that it can be taken to pieces,
so that the soap can be cut up when cold ; the sections or
' lifts ' are frequently made of the width of the intended bar of
soap.
Two or three days after the soap has been in the frame,
SOAP-CUTTING. 335
: it is cool enough to cut into slabs of the size of the lifts or
sections of the frame ; these slabs are set up edgeways to
cool for a day or two more ; it is then barred by means of a
wire. The lifts of the frame regulate the width of the bars ;
the gauge regulates their breadth. "The density of the soap
BARRING GAUGE.
being pretty well known, the gauges are made so that the
soap-cutter can. cut up the bars either into fours, sixes, or
eights ; that is, either into squares of four, six, or eight to the
pound weight. Latterly, various mechanical arrangements
have been introduced for soap-cutting, which, in very large
establishments, such as those at Marseilles, in France, are
SQUARING GAUGE.
great economisers of labour ;. but in England the ' wire ' is
still used.
The following is a translation from the French edition of
this book : —
The grinding machine No. 3 (see fig.) carries three cy-
336
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
linders of granite, the contact of which is regulated at
pleasure. On the right of the plate is a box the upper end of
which is raised above the fly-wheel. Into this box the cake
of soap, previously cut in the large frame, is introduced.
When the machine is in motion, the lower part of the cake
ORINDING-MACHINE. NO. 3.
presses upon a circular knife, and is cut into small pieces,
which are received in a box below. The soap thus cut up is
placed in the hopper over the first two cylinders (on the left
in the figure) ; and these draw it in and crush it. It is next
drawn between the second and third, which, revolving at
ROLLING- MA CHINE.
337
different rates, complete the crushing process. Along the
whole breadth of the third cylinder a knife presses and
detaches the soap in thin sheets which fall into a box below.
By this time the soap is sufficiently ground to be introduced
into the rolling-machine.
ROLLING-MACHINE. NO. I.
The machine No. i (see fig.) being of larger dimensions,
has no knife for preliminary division of the paste. This is
effected by a special machine, and the soap is afterwards put
into the hopper surmounting the first two cylinders. The
work is done by this machine, as by the former, except that
z
338
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
this is worked by steam or other engine, and the former, No
3, either by hand or by steam.
I • s
. The peloteuse. No. i, represented in the figure, is worked
exclusively by steam. This machine is composed of a rect-
SOAP PRESS.
339
i angular box, the lid of which is made to open for the intro-
iduction of the paste. In the box a piston works, exactly
: fitted to the interior. To the exterior part of the piston is
.attached a shaft, which receives from the machinery an alter-
nating movement. When the paste is to be introduced into
SOAP PRESS.
the chest, the piston is withdrawn, leaving the chest empty to
make room for as much soap as possible. The lid is then
closed, and the piston advancing drives back the paste and
compresses it with great force. It passes out to the right (of
the figure) by an aperture of suitable form and size, which
34°
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
can be altered at pleasure for the purpose of giving the pats
very nearly the shape that is desired. The pats pass out on
to a fine endless cloth (right of the figure). When they are of
convenient size they are cut by machinery into equal lengths,
variable at pleasure, so as to make each cake of any weight
desired. When the piston is at the extremity of its course the
lid is again opened, the piston drawn back, and the box re-
filled. Some kinds oi peloteuses are worked by hand.
To give the soap the various shapes in which it is sold, the
press (see fig.) is used. For this purpose the moulds are in
SOAP PRESS.
two pieces, arid on these are engraved the various marks of
the manufacturers. The upper part of the mould is fixed to
the percussion screw, while the lower part is fastened in a
counterpart varying in form according as fixed, or varying
weights are wanted. The press is set in motion by a fly-
wheel at the top. Automatic stops prevent the motion of the
fly-wheel in either direction when the press is not in action,
to give time for the removal of the finished cake and the
insertion of another. For certain kinds of soap two presses
SOAP SCOOP. 341
are used ; one for roughly giving the shape, the other for
perfecting it.
For making tablet shapes, the soap is first cut into squares
and is then put into a mould, and finally under a press — a
modification of an ordinary die or coin press. Balls are cut
by hand, with the aid of a little tool called a ' scoop/ made of
brass or ivory, being, in fact, a ring-shaped knife. Balls are
SOAP SCOOP.
also made in the press with a mould of appropriate form.
The grotesque form and fruit shape are also obtained by
the press and appropriate moulds. The fruit-shaped spaps.
after leaving the mould, are dipped into melted wax, and
are then coloured according to artificial fruit-makers' rules.
The ' variegated ' coloured soaps are produced by adding
the various colours, such as smalt and vermilion, previously
mixed with water, to the soap in a melted state ; these
colours are but slightly crutched in, hence the streaky
appearance or party colour of the soap ; this kind is also
termed ' marbled ' soap.
342 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Toilet soaps are prepared either by a warm or cold
process. In this manufacture fats and suets of the highest
quality only ought to be used.
The manipulation of toilet soap has of late years made
considerable progress, owing to the adoption by some leading
perfumers of drying the soap paste before perfuming it,
instead of placing the soaps in the stove afterwards;
The chief difficulty in the way of accomplishing this
object lay in the operation of making up the paste into balls
{pelotagc). Formerly the moist soap-paste was compressed
{pelotee) by hand. To effect the proper blending, the paste
must also have contained a large quantity of water. Con-
sequently, before it could be offered for sale, it was necessary
to leave it in the drying stove for a period varying from six
weeks to three months, according to the time of year.
By the substitution of pelotage by machinery for that by
hand, it is rendered possible to operate on the pastes when
dried, or when containing not more than a very small
quantity of water, from lo to 12 per cent., and thus to secure
an economy of time and of perfume.
The mechanical operations which the soap-pa.stes suc-
cessively undergo for their conversion into toilet soaps are the
following : —
1. Reduction to thin chips.
2. Mixture of the perfumes and the colours.
3. Pounding.
4. Making into balls.
5. Stamping.
We intend to describe each of the machines employed in
these operations.
I. Reduction to chips. — We suppose the slabs of soap to be
previously cut up into bars from 4 .to 5 centimetres in thick-
ness and placed within reach of the plane. This instrument
is composed of a rotating disk, conical or cylindrical in form,
POUNDING-MACHINE. 343
furnished with several blades. It is supported on a column
and works either by hand, by means of a crank attached to
one of the arms of the fly-wheel, or by steam
by means of a pulley attached to the shaft.
A slip-board is fixed to the shaft and re-
ceives the bar of soap, which descends by
its own weight and presses against the
plane till it is reduced to chips. When one
bar is nearly finished, another is supplied in
its place. The operation may be accele-
rated by pressing with one hand the soap
against the plane. The shavings fall into
, , J J ii ,_i 1- 1 CHIPPING-MACHINE.
a box placed underneath the disk.
2. Mixture of perfumes and of colours. — Before perfuming
toilet soap with essences of oils and colouring it with various
colouring matters, it is dried in a stove till it contains not
more than 10 or 12 per cent, of water. The operation of
mixing the perfumes with colours is carried on in cases, or
better still in the Chevalier fat-mincer.
3. Pounding. — This process, which was formerly effected
with pestle and mortar, is now effected by machinery. The
machines are wrought to a very high degree of perfection,
and a mixture of the soap with the colouring matter and
the perfume, so thorough that every particle of the mix-
ture contains all three substances in the same proportion,
and that the paste finally obtained is very soft and very
smooth.
The most perfect specimen of pounding-machines now in
use is figured on the next page. It is constructed by MM.
Beyer Brothers, of Paris.
It consists of two granite cylinders placed horizontally,
and two others, also of granite, superimposed obliquely on the
second. It is provided with a self-clearing mechanisni, so as
to allow of being worked without fear of accident. By a
344
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
special arrangement a double speed is obtained in the de-
scending movement.
The third portion of the mechanism is placed in the
upper part, forming the cap of the cylinder. In the figure the
cap is open, and the aperture may be seen by which the
soap passes to its exit into the trough. In this aperture is
placed a hollow cone of bronze, the object of which is the
brunot's pounding-machine.
division of the soap paste and making it homogeneous before
it leaves the machine.
For making the soap into rolls, the piston is made to
descend, and the paste is put into the cylinder in small
portions, which are pounded by a mechanical stamper.
When the cylinder is full of well-compressed soap, the top,
which is fixed to it by four strong bolts, is put down. The
machine is set in motion, the piston rises, and the soap passes
MECHANICAL OPERATIONS. 345,
out by the aperture which has previously been made of the
form desired. Long rolls are thus obtained which are after-
wards cut into lengths suitable for the moulds.
To certain machines are attached automatic cutters
worked by means of gear which receive their motion from the
principal.
By means of a cavity in the top of the machine, and a
double casing about the cylinder, the soap is warmed,
which tends to bring the paste to a homogeneous condition.
M. Piver conceived the idea of making use of the hy-
draulic press for the rolling process. He previously dries his
soap by means of a stove constructed of cast-iron and brick.
Pulleys set in motion the principal shaft, which transmits the
motion by a pinion to a series of wheels and to cylinders in a
horizontal and inclined position. The closure is effected by
a new system moved by fly-wheels, which act upon endless
screws and permit the closure of each cylinder on both sides
at once, or separately on one side.
The paste is introduced into the lower part of the wooden
hopper, and is first pounded by the horizontal cylinders,
which send it up to the inclined cylinders, and the fourth
cylinder casts the paste into the upper part of the hopper,
which was at the outset loaded in the lower part. The paste
accumulated above the hopper afterwards falls into the upper
part, and passes once more between the cylinders, till the
pounding is completed. At the close of the operation, by
means of a screw, a blade is made to press on the third
cylinder, and throws the paste into a box placed below. In
this way the reloading is automatic, and the constant presence
of a workman is not required to watch the process and reload
the machine.
4. Rolling. — This is effected in various ways. The
machine most usually employed, that of Beyer Brothers (see
fig.), is composed of three different instruments, namely, in the
346
THE ART OF PERFUMERY,
upper part the stamper for heaping and mixing up the soap-
paste in the cylinder and extracting the air. It is set in
motion by a strap, and is intended to take the place of the
pounding by hand, which used formerly to be done in marble
mortars.
BEYRR brothers' ROLLING-MACHINE.
The second important instrument is the piston, wholly of
metal, serving as bottom of the cast-iron cylinder into which
the soap-paste is put. This piston is moved by a screw and
a set of wheels. It rises and falls at pleasure by means of
force transmitted through three pulleys, and is over endless
ROLLING-MA CHINE.
347
cloths stretched horizontally over rollers whfch keep them all
in motion on the level of a warm current of air.
After the pounding, in order to restore to the soap the
malleability which it has lost by drying, it is removed to a
chopping board heated in the water bath in the condition of
paste slightly warmed. The soap is placed in the rolling
machine {modekuse or peloteusi). This is a hollow cylinder.
ROLLING-MACHINE
(modelmsc],
with a double casing warmed in the water bath, and closed by
a special obtiirateur. A piston adjusted in the interior of the
cylinder, and moved from below upwards by a hydraulic press,
accumulates the soap against the obtiirateur, drives out the
air, and discharges the soap by a screw-plate in long rolls,
which are afterwards divided to fit the moulds.
348
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Within very recent times some perfumers and machinists
have endeavoured to substitute for these rolling machines,
which have the drawback of serving only for a certain quantity
of soap (lOO kilpgrammps at most at the same time) a con-
tinuous machine. For this purpose all the machinists employ
PULVERISER.
a conical screw Of the apparatus a complete idea is given
in the figure.
The soap is put into a hopper placed in the upper part of
the machine. It fall§ thencp into a conical screw which draws
it on, pressii)g it towE^rd{5 the scre)v-plate by which it passes
MIXER.
349
out. At present the results obtained do not establish the
superiority of this machine over the preceding as a compressor,
but it is cheaper, and can be worked more readily.
5. Stamping. — When" the rolls have been divided into
small pieces, they are taken to the press, which is identical in
all cases, and which we have already described.
M. Chardin-Hadancourt has recently patented a very re-
markable method of stamping and wrapping; which has not
yet been published. By means of a mould and a special press
he wraps the soap in cloth or in leather, v^hich saves it from
MIXER, FOR OIL AND SPIRIT.
deterioration. He thus dispenses with the tedidiis and costly
process of folding in paper.
All the machines here depicted were seen in motion at
the Paris Exhibition, 1878. They are, in fact, but modifica-
tions of chocolate machines.
The pulveriser, for fine powders, consists of a mortar
within which two pestles, with a circular and alternating
movement, exchange places, striking alternately on all parts
of the mortar and reducing to powder the substances placed
3 so
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
in it. The mortar is usually surrounded with a leather
bag, to prevent the powders being dispersed.
The mixer (see fig.) is composed of cylinders whose axes
F.XTRACTION PRESS.
are not in the same plane as the axis of rotation of the
machine. By this arrangement the extremities of each
cylinder are alternately high and low. When the cylinders
ALMOND SOAP. 351
are properly filled with the extracts to be mixed, the machine
is set in motion.
The extraction press (see fig.) is used for extracting the
juices of various fruits — cucumber, melon, &c. — in a convenient
form.
ALMOND SOAP.
This soap, by some persons supposed to be made of sweet
almond oil, and by others to be a mystic combination of
sweet and bitter almonds, is in reality constituted thus : —
Finest curd soap i cwt.
„ oil soap . . . . . . .14 lbs.
„ marine '4 ;j
Otto of almonds 1 i lb.
,. cloves 5 „
„ caraway ^ „
By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine
soap is to be added ; when this is well crutched, then add
the oil soap, and finish with the remaining curd. When the
whole is well melted, and just before turning it into the frame,
crutch in the mixed perfume.
Some of the soap houses use Mirabane, or artificial
essence of almonds, for perfuming soap, it being far cheaper
than the true otto of almonds ; much of the cheap soap now
sold is scented with Mirabane.
CAMPHOR SOAP.
Curd soap 28 lbs.
Otto of rosemary ij lb.
Camphor ij „
Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar
with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift
it. When the soap is melted and ready to turn out, add the
camphor and rosemary, using the crutch for mixing.
352
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
HONEY SOAP.
Best yellow soap
Fig soft soap .
Otto of citronella
Saffron .
I cwt.
14 lbs.
1* .,
I oz.
WHITE WINDSOR SOAP.
Curd soap
Marine soap .
Oil soap .
Otto of caraw ay
„ thyme
„ rosemary
„ cassia .
„ cloves .
of each
of each
I cwt.
21 lbs.
1* »
BROWN WINDSOR SOAP.
Curd soap
Marine soap .
Yellow soap
Oil soap ....
Blown colouring (caramel)
Otto of caraWay
„ cloves ;
„ thyme .
„ cassia .
,, petit grain .
„ French lavender .
. of each
\ cwt.
ipint
Curd soap
Marine soap .
Sifted silver sand
Otto of thyme .
,, cassia .
SAND SOAP.
caraway
Flrench lavender
of each
7 lbs.
7 „
28 „
SCENTED SOAPS. 353
FULLER'S EARTH SOAP.
Curd soap loj lbs.
Marine soap 3^ „
Fuller's earth (baked) 14 «
Otto of French lavender 2 oz.
„ origanum . i „
The above forms are indicative of the method adopted for
perfuming soaps while hot or melted.
All the very highly scented soaps are, however, perfumed
cold, in order to avoid the loss of scent, twenty per cent, of
perfume being evaporated by the hot process.
The variously named soaps, from the sublime ' Sultana '
to the ridiculous ' Turtle's Marrow,' we cannot of course be
expected to notice ; the reader may, however, rest assured
that he has lost nothing by their omission.
The receipts given produce only the finest quality of the
article named. Where cheap soaps are required, not much
acumen is necessary to discern that by omitting the expensive
perfumes, or lessening the quantity, the object desired is
attained. Still lower qualities of scented soap are made by
using greater proportions of yellow soap, and employing a
very common curd, omitting the oil soap altogether.
SCENTING SOAPS HOT.
In the previous remarks, the methods explained of scent-
ing soap involved the necessity of melting it. The high
temperature of the soap under these circumstances involves
the obvious loss of a great deal of perfume by evaporation.
With very highly scented soaps, and with perfume of an ex-
pensive character, the loss of ottos is too great to be borne in
a commercial sense ; hence the adoption of the plan of
A A
354
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SCENTING SOAPS COLD.
This method is exceedingly convenient and economical for
scenting small batches, involving merely mechanical labour,
the tools required being simply an ordinary carpenter's plane
and a good marble mortar and lignum vitae pestle.
The woodwork of the plane must be fastened at each
end, so that when placed over the mortar it remains firm and
is not easily moved by the parallel pressure of the soap against
its projecting blade.
To commence operations, we take first 7 lbs., 14 lbs., or
21 lbs. of the bars of the soap that it is intended to perfume.
SOAPING THE PLANE.
The plane is now laid upside down across the top of the
mortar.
Things being thus arranged, the whole of the soap is to
be pushed across the plane until it is all reduced into fine
shavings. Like the French ' Charbonnier,' who does not saw
the wood, but woods the saw, so it will be perceived that in
this process we do not plane the soap, but that we soap the
plane, the shavings of which fall lightly into the mortar as
quickly as produced.
Soap, as generally recei\'ed from the maker, is in proper
condition for thus working ; but if it has been in stock any
SCENTING SOAPS COLD. 355
time it becotnes too hard, and must have from one to three
ounces of distilled water sprinkled in the shavings for every
pound of soap employed, and must lie for at least twenty-four
hours to be absorbed before the perfume is added.
When it is determined what size the cakes of soap are to.
be, what they are to sell for, and what it is intended they
should cost, then the maker can measure out his perfume.
In general, soaps scented in this way retail from 4s., lOs.,
to 20s. per pound. When finished, they in truth are thd only
soaps fit for state apartments. The soap, being in a ptoper
condition with regard to moisture, &c., is now to have the
perfume well stirred into it. THe pestle is then set to Work
for the process of incorporation. After a couple of hours of
' warm exercise,' the soap is generally expected to be free
from streaks, and to be of one uniforfn consistence.
For perfuming soap in large portioiis by the cold process,
instead of using the t)estle and nlortar as an incorpol-ator, it
is more conveniet|t and ecoftomical to employ a mill similar
in construction to a cake chocolate-mill, or a flake cocoa-mill ;
any mechanical apparatus that answers for mixing paste and
crushing lumps will serve pretty well for blending soap
together.'
Before being put into the mill, the soap is to be reduced
to shavings, and have the scent and colour stirred in ; after
milling it, the flakes or ribands of soap are to be finally
bound together by the pestle and mortar into one solid mass ;
it is then weighed out in quantities for the tablets required,
and moulded by the hand into egg-shaped masses ; each piece
being left in this condition, separately laid in rows on a sheet
of white paper, dries sufficiently in a day or so to be fit for
the press, which is the same as that previously mentioned.
It is usual, before placing the cakes of soap in the press, to
' See the description of M. Brunot's Pounding Machine, which is the most
generally adopted,
356 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
dust them over with a httle starch-powder, or else to very
slightly oil the mould ; either of these plans prevents the soap
from adhering to the letters or embossed work of the mould
— a condition essential for turning out a clean, well-struck
tablet.
The body of all the fine soaps mentioned below should
consist of the finest and whitest curd soap, or of a soap
previously melted and coloured to the required shade, thus : —
Rose-coloured Soap is curd soap stained with rose
and aniline, thoroughly incorporated when the soap is melted,
and not very hot.
Green Soap is a mixture of palm-oil soap and curd
soap, to which is added a little yellow derived from saffron
water and strained.
Blue Soap, curd soap coloured with smalt.
Brown Soap, curd soap with caramel, ?>. burnt sugar.
Mauve Soap is coloured with aniline.
The intensity of colour varies, of course, with the quantity
of colouring.
Some kinds of soap become coloured or tinted to a
sufficient extent by the mere addition of the ottos used for
scenting, such as ' spermaceti soap,' ' lemon soap,' &c., the
latter of which becomes of a beautiful pale lemon colour by
the mere mixing of the perfume with the curd soap. (See
Colours, Section XIX.)
OTTO OF ROSE SOAP.
{J'o retail at los. per powtd.)
Curd soap (previously coloured pink)
Otto of rose
Spirituous extract of musk
Otto of santal ... . .
„ geranium ....
4^ lbs.
1 oz.
2 „
Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together.
COLOURED SOAPS. 357
TONQUIN MUSK SOAP.
Pale brown-coloured curd soap .... 5 lbs.
Grain musk :^ oz.
Otto of bergamot i „
Rub the musk with the bergamot, then add it to the soap, and beat
jp . Should be made six months before sold .
ORANGE-FLOWER SCSp.
Curd soap 7 lbs.
Otto of neroli 3^ 02^-
SANTAL-WOOD SOAP.
Curd soap 7 lbs.
Otto of santal ... . . . . 7 oz.
„ bergamot . . • ■ • 2 „
SPERMACETI SOAP.
Curd soap 14 lbs.
Otto of bergamot 2^ „
lemon ... . . . . ^ „
CITRON SOAP.
Curd soap 6 lbs.
Otto of citron zeste J »
„ verbena (lemon grass) . • . J oz.
„ bergamot 4 »
„ lemon . . . ' 2 „
One of the best of fancy soaps that is made.
3S8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
FRANGIPANNI SOAP.
Curd soap (previously coloured pink) . . 7 lbs.
Civet J oz.
Otto of neroli \ „
„ santal i } „
), rose . . i „
„ vitivert ^ „
Rub the civet with the various ottos, mix, and beat in the usual
manner.
PATCHOULI SOAP.
Curd soap 4|^ lbs.
Otto of patchouli i oz.
„ santal .
vitivert
■ I of each . ■ i „
SAPONACEOUS CREAM OF ALMONDS.
The preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap
of lard. It has a beautiful pearly appearance, and has met
with extensive demand as a shaving soap. Being also used
in the manufacture of Emulsines, it is an article of no
inconsiderable consumption by the perfumer. It is made
thus : —
Clarified lard 7 lbs.
Potash ley (containing 26 per cent, of caustic
potash) 3a ,,
Rectified spirit 3 oz.
Otto of almonds 2 drachms
Manipulation. — Melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by a
salt-water bath, or by a steam heat under 1 5 lbs. pressure ;
then run in the ley very slowly, jigitating the whole time.
When about half the ley is in, the mixture begins to curdle ;
it will, however, become so firm that it cannot be stirred. The
SOAP POWDERS. 359
crdme is then finished, but is not pearly ; it will, however,
assume that appearance by long trituration in a mortar,
gradually adding the alcohol, in which has been dissolved
the perfiime.
SOAP POWDERS.
These preparations are sold sometimes as a dentifrice and
at others for shaving ; they are made by reducing the soap into
shavings by a plane, then thoroughly drying them in a warm
situation, afterwards grinding in a mill, then perfuming with
any otto desired.
RYPOPHAGON SOAP.
Best yeUow soap . . .j equal parts melted together.
Fig soft soap . . . .J
Perfume with anise and citronella.
AMBROSIAL CREAM.
Colour the grease very strongly with alkanet root, then
proceed as for the manufacture of saponaceous cream. The
cream coloured in this way has a blue tint : when it is
required of a purple colour, we have merely to stain the white
saponaceous cream with aniline to the shade desired. Per-
fume with otto of English peppermint.
NAPLES SHAVING SOAP.
This article is very much used, and as a consequence is
in demand : it can be perfumed either with otto of thyme,
lavender, peppermint, or rose. Being very rank, it requires a
great deal of perfume to cover its fishy odour, being made, as
r believe, from fish oils and potash ; but M. Faiszt states that
36o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
it is made by saponifying mutton fat witii lime, and then
separating the fatty acids from the soap thus formed, by
means of a mineral acid. These fatty acids are afterwards
combined with ordinary caustic potash to produce the Naples
soap.
TRANSPARENT SOFT SOAP.
Solution caustic potash (' London Pharmacopoeia ') 6 lbs.
Olive oil I lb.
Perfume to taste.
Before commencing to make the soap, reduce the potash
ley to one-half its bulk by continued boiling. Now proceed
as for the manufacture of saponaceous cream. After standing
a few days, pour off the waste liquor.
SOFT WATER ELIXIR.
{For softening hard water.)
Spirits of wine i gallon
Orange-flower water . .... 4 pints
Marine soap 7 lbs.
Colour with a few drops of aniline. Shave up the soap and put it
into the water ; make it hot, and the soap will dissolve ; then add the
spirit.
A table spoonful of this elixir put into the bottom of a
basin will completely 'soften ' the water that is put into it
for washing.
GLYCERINE SOAP.
Soaps, particularly curd soap, dissolve in warm glycerine ;
when cold the soap sets like a jelly, or, 'firm as a rock,' accord-
ing to the proportions of soap used. It is semi-transparent,
and can be perfumed at cost or pleasure thus : —
TRANSPARENT SOAPS. 361
For every hundred pounds of soap made add
Otto of petit grain ,
„ geranium . . |- of each
„ lime .
,, nutmeg
citronella
TRANSPARENT HARD SOAP.
Reduce the soap to shavings, and dry them as much as
possible ; then dissolve in alcohol, using as little spirit as will
effect the solution ; then colour and perfume as desired, and
cast the product in appropriate moulds ; finally dry in a warm
situation.
Until the Legislature allows spirit to be used, for manu-
facturing purposes, free of duty, we cannot compete with our
neighbours in this article : the methylated spirit has such an
abominable odour that it cannot be used for making scented
soaps for the toilet.
TRANSPARENT GLYCERINE SOAP.
This soap is now in great vogue ; it is made by the cold
process under the usual conditions. A third of the weight of
the soap is then added to a quart of alcohol, and it is heated
in the water-bath. In about ten or fifteen minutes, the soap
is completely dissolved in the alcohol and the glycerine ; it
is strained into bladders, then cut into small pieces and taken
to the drying stove, where it remains till the alcohol is
completely evaporated, which takes about twenty to twenty-
five days. When dry it is stamped in the common press.
MEDICATED SOAPS.
In 1850 I began making a series of medicated soaps, such
as Sulphur Soap, Iodine Soap, Bromine Soap, Creo-
362 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SOTE Soap, Mercurial Soap, Croton Oil Soap, and
many others. These soaps are prepared by adding the
medicant to curd soap, and then making in a tablet form for
use. For sulphur soap, the curd soap may be melted, and
flowers of sulphur added while the soap is in a soft condition.
For antimony soap and mercurial soap, the low oxides of the
metals employed may also be mixed in the curd soap in a
melted state. Iodine, bromine, creosote soap, and others,
containing very volatile substances, are best prepared cold by
shaving up the curd soap in a mortar, and mixing the medicant
with it by long beating.
In certain cutaneous diseases the author has reason to
believe that they will prove of infinite service as auxiliaries
to the general treatment. It is obvious that the absorbent
vessels of the skin are very active during the lavatory process ;
such soap must not, therefore, be used except by the special
advice of a medical man. Probably these soaps will be found
useful for internal application. The precedent of the use of
Castile soap (containing oxide of iron) renders it likely that
such soaps will find a place in the pharmacopceias. The dis-
covery of the solubility, under certain conditions, of the
active alkaloids, quinine, morphia, &c., in oil, by Mr. W.
Bastick, greatly favours the supposition of analogous com-
pounds in soap.
Some forty or fifty years ago, there were several kinds
of soap imported, but which now-a days are quite unknown,
such as Joppa soap, Smyrna soap, Jerusalem soap, Genoa
soap, Alicant soap, &c., nearly all of which, however, were
made of oil as a base.
The sale of medicated soaps, which in England can be
made by perfumers, where the trade of druggist is free, would
not be allowed in France. Such preparations come within
the domain of pharmacy ; and any soap or other cosmetic,
offered as possessing therapeutic properties, is a medicine
JUNIPER TAR SOAP. 363
and not a cosmetic. It must therefore in France be subject
to the legal regulations for the sale of medicines.'
JUNIPER TAR SOAP.
This soap is made from the tar of the wood of the
Jumperits communis, by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable
oil, such as almond or olive oil, or in fine tallow, and forming
a soap by means of a weak soda ley after the customary
manner. This yields a moderately firm and clear soap, which
may be readily used by application to parts affected with
eruptions, at night, mixed with a little water, and carefully
washed off the following morning. This soap has lately been
much used for eruptive disorders, particularly on the Continent,
and with varying degrees of success. It is thought that the
efficient element in its composition is a rather less impure
hydrocarburet than that known in Paris under the name
huile de cade. On account of its ready miscibility with
water, it possesses great advantage over the common tar
ointment.
SOAPSTONE OF MYLOS.
This is an important article of commerce in Turkey and
Russia, where it is used as soap. It has been analysed by M.
Landerer, the result being — silex, 61 ; alumina, 23 ; water,
12 ; and sesquioxide of iron, 1.25. This mineral is of a
greyish colour, and has Schistose fracture. It can be cut
into shavings, and adheres a little to the tongue ; softens
in water, dissolving gradually in it ; and afterwards becomes
white and greasy to the touch. It becomes grey again after
desiccation.
' QvXoom<Ci Manuel legal des Pharmaciens, Paris, 1852, maybe consulted on
this subject.
364 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SOAP PLANTS.
There are several plants the juices of which are employed
for- washing ; but at present theyhave no practical application
to the toilet, though doubtless they will have so soon as we
can obtain a regular supply.
The soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), the Egyptian soap-
wort ( Gypsophilla struthium, L., or strution of Dioscorides and
Kalvagi of the Arabs), and the bark oi punama or of quillaye
{Sapindus saponaria) are extremely rich in a proximate
principle named saponine, which has the property of softening
water. These plants or parts of them form what are called
the vegetable soaps. They are used not only in the toilet,
but for cleansing stuffs, especially silks.
Saponine, discovered by M. Bussy in the Egyptian soap-
wort, is white and non-crystal) isable. Its taste, sweet at
first, soon turns acid and astringent ; it provokes sneezing ;
it dissolves in water in any proportion, and its solution makes
a lather like soap and water.
EMULSINES. 365
SECTION XI.
EMULSINES.
FROM soaps proper we now pass to those compounds,
used as substitutes for soap, which are classed together
under one general title as above, for the reason that all
cosmetics herein embraced have the property of forming
emulsions (milks) with water.
Chemically considered, they are an exceedingly interesting
class of compounds, and are well worthy of study. Being
prone to decomposition, as might be expected from their
composition, they should be made only in small portions, or,
at least, only in quantities to meet a ready sale.
While in stock they should be kept as cool as possible,
and free from a damp atmosphere.
AMANDINE.
Fine almond oil , . 7 lbs.
Simple syrup ' 4 oz.
White soft soap, or saponaceous cream, i.e. Crfime
d'Amande i „
Otto of almonds i „
„ bergamot i „
„ cloves ^ „
Rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture is homogeneous ;
then rub in the oil by degrees, the perfume having been previously
mixed with the oil.
' Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a minute in i imperial
pint of distilled water.
366
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the difficulty-
is to get in the quantity of oil indicated, without which it
does not assume that transparent jelly appearance which
good amandine should have. To attain this end, the oil is put
into a ' runner ' — that is, a tin or glass vessel — at the bottom
of which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The oil, being
put into this vessel, is allowed to run slowly into the mortar
in which the amandine is being made, just as fast as the
maker finds that he can incorporate it with the paste of
soap and syrup ; and so long as this takes place, the result
will always have a jelly texture to the hand. If, however, the
OIL-RUNNER IN EMULSINE PROCESS.
oil be put into the mortar quicker than the workman can
blend it with the paste, then the paste becomes ' oiled,' and
may be considered as ' done for ; ' unless, indeed, the whole
process be gone through again, starting off with fresh syrup
and soap, using up the greasy mass as if it were pure oil.
This liability to ' go off ' increases as the amandine nears the
finish ; hence extra caution and plenty of ' elbow grease '
must be used during the addition of the last two pounds of
oil. If the oil be not perfectly fresh, or if the temperature of
the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat, it will
be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the
formula into combination. When the mass becomes bright
PASTES.
367
and of a crystalline lustre, it will be well to stop the further
addition of oil to it.
This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly
as made, and the lids of the pots banded either with strips of
tin-foil or paper, to exclude air. When the amandine is filled
into the jars, the top or face of it is marked or ornamented
with a tool made to the size of half the diameter of the
interior of the jar, in a similar way to a saw ; a piece of lead
or tortoise-shell, being serrated with an angular file, or piece
of an old saw, will do very well ; place the marker on the
amandine, and turn the jar gently round.
OLIVINE.
Gum acacia, m powder
Honey
Yolk of eggs .
White soft soap
Olive oil .
Green oil
Otto of bergamot
„ lemon .
„ clove .
„ thyme and cassia
in number
. each
2 oz.
6„
5
3 „
2 lbs.
I oz.
I „
I »
k „
^ drachm
Rub the gum and honey together until incorporated, then add the
soap and egg. Having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive
oil, the mixture is to be placed in the runner, and the process followed
exactly as indicated for amandine.
HONEY AND ALMOND PASTE.
Bitter almonds, blanched and ground
Honey
Yolk of eggs .
Almond oil
Otto of bergamot
„ cloves .
in number
lb.
368 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and
finally the ground almonds and the perfume.
ALMOND PASTE.
Bitter almonds, blanched and ground . . • i^ lb.
Rose-water . . ij pint
Alcohol (60 over proof) 16 oz.
Otto of bergamot . . . . ■ 5 «
Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stew-
pan : with a slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their granular
texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the
whole time ; otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan
and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odour.
The largequantity of otto of almonds which is volatilised duringthe pro-
cess, renders it essential that the operator should avoid the vapour as much
as possible.
When the almonds are nearly cooked, the remaining water is to be
added ; finally, the paste is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the
pestle ; then the perfume and spirit are added. Before potting this paste,
as well as honey paste, it should be passed through a medium fine sieve,
to ensure uniformity of texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly.
A more satisfactory result is to be obtained by the
following process : —
Put into a mill some bitter almonds, previously peeled. When" well
crushed, soak with rose-water, or any aromatic water ; then boil so as to
evaporate part of the water, and to bring off a slight smell of bitter almonds.
When the paste is dried it should be pretty firm. It is then to be diluted
with the requisite quantity of alcohol, at the same time straining it through
a hair sieve. The perfume is afterwards added.
Other pastes, such as P&te de Pistache, Pdte de Cocos, PAte
de Guimauve, are prepared in so similar a manner to the
above, that it is unnecessary to say more about them here,
than that they must not be confounded with preparations
bearing a similar name made by confectioners.
ALMOND MEAL.
369
ALMOND MEAL.
Ground almonds
. 1 lb.
Wheat flour .
• I „
Orris-root powder
■ \„
Otto of lemon .
.
. \ oz.
„ almonds
. \ drachm
PISTACHIO NUT MEAL, OR ANY OTHER NUT.
Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds are
blanched) i lb.
Orris powder i „
Otto of neroli i drachm
„ lemons i oz.
Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran,
&c., are occasionally in demand, and are prepared as the
foregoing.
All the preceding preparations are used at the washhand-
stand as substitutes for soap, and to ' render the skin pliant,
soft, and fair ! '
EMULSIN AU JASMIN.
Saponaceous cream t oz.
Simple syrup i^ »
Almond oil i lb.
Best jasmine oil i «
EMULSIN A LA VIOLETTE.
Saponaceous cream i oz.
Syrup of violets 'i »
Best violet oil iJ I''-
Emulsin of other odours can be prepared with tubereuse,
rose, or cassie (acacia) oils— oils that have been perfumed by
the enfleurage or maceration process.
B B
370 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see ' Aman-
dine.'
On account of the high price of the French oils, these
preparations are expensive, but they are undoubtedly the
most exquisite of cosmetics.
GLYCERINE JELLY.
White soft soap 4 oz.
Pure glycerine . 6 „
Almond oil .....' ■ 3 lbs. in summer
( . . 4 „ in winter
Otto of thyme 2 drachms
Mix the soap and glycerine in a mortar, then gradually add the oil in
the same way as for amandine.
MILKS, OR EMULSIONS. 371
SECTION XII.
MILKS, OR EMULSIONS.
IN the perfumery trade, few articles meet with a more ready-
sale than that class of cosmetics denominated milks. It
has long been known that nearly all the seeds of plants
which are called nuts, when decorticated and freed from
their pellicle, on being reduced to a pulpy mass, and rubbed
with about four times their weight of water, produce a fluid
which has every analogy to cow's milk. The milky appear-
ance of these emulsions is due to the minute mechanical
division of the oil derived from the nuts being diffused
through the water. All these emulsions possess great
chemical interest on account of their rapid decomposition,
and the products emanating from their fermentation, especially
that made with sweet almonds and pistachios (^Pistachia vera).
In the manufacture of various milks for sale, careful
manipulation is of the utmost importance, otherwise these
emulsions ' will not keep ; ' hence more loss than profit.
' Transformation takes place in the elements of vegetable
caseine (existing in seeds) from the very moment that sweet
almonds are converted into almond-milk.' (LlEBIG.) This
accounts for the difficulty many persons find in making milk
of almonds that does not spontaneously divide a day or so
after its manufacture.
Pure water is ' the cosmetic ' par excellence ; but water,
though all-sufficient during perfect health, is most insufficient
for the inhabitants of towns, because their health is rarely
372 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
perfect, assailed as it is by business cares, heated rooms, ill-
ventilated public buildings and places of amusement, and by
a sulphurous atmosphere, charged with the products of com-
bustion of gas and coal. It is therefore necessary that Art
should come to the aid of Nature, from whom we are too apt
to demand more than she can give. In the open air, no less
than within doors, in walking, at balls or parties, at places
of public resort, in watching, and various kinds of occupation,
the skin of the face becomes charged with impurities which
plain water will not remove. To restore the skin to its fresh-
ness, to correct the evils of town life, and to impart to the
skin the bloom of health, no cosmetic can approach Emulsion
of Roses. It cleanses, softens, and brightens the skin, yet is
as harmless as an April shower on the verdure of spring. In
the manufacture of Emulsion or Milk of Roses careful
manipulation is of the utmost importance.
MILK OF ROSES.
Valentia almonds (blanched) | lb.
Rose-water ........ i quart
Alcohol (60 over proof) \ pint
Otto of rose i drachm
White wax, spermaceti, oil soap . . each \ oz.
Manipulation. — Shave up the soap, and place it in a vessel
that can be heated by steam or water bath ; add to it two
or three ounces of rose-water. When the soap it perfectly
melted, add the wax and spermaceti, without dividing them
more than is necessary to obtain the correct weight : this
ensures their melting slowly, and allows time for their partial
saponification by the fluid soap ; occasional stirring is neces-
sary. While this is going on, blanch the almonds, carefully
excluding every particle that is in the least way damaged.
Now proceed to beat up the almonds in a scrupulously clean
mortar, allowing the rose-water to trickle into the mass by
MILK OF ALMONDS.
37J
degrees ; the runner, as used for the oil in the manufacture
of olivine and amandine, is very convenient for this purpose.
When the emulsion of almonds is thus finished, it is to be
strained, without pressure, through clean washed muslin (new
muslin often contains starch, flour, gum, or dextrine).
The previously-formed saponaceous mixture is now to be
placed in the mortar, and the ready formed emulsion in the
runner ; the soapy compound and the emulsion are then care-
fully blended together. As the last of the emulsion runs into
the mortar, the spirit, in which the otto of roses has been
dissolved, is to take its place, and to be gradually trickled into
the other ingredients. A too sudden addition of the spirit
frequently coagulates the milk, and causes it to be curdled.
As it is, the temperature of the mixture rises, and every
means must be taken to keep it down ; the constant agitation
and cold mortar effecting that object pretty well. Finally,
the now formed milk of roses is to be strained.
The almond residue may be washed with a few ounces of
fresh rose-water, in order to prevent any loss in bulk to the whole
given quantity. The newly formed milk should be placed
into a bottle having a tap in it about a quarter of an inch
from the bottom. After standing perfectly quiet for twenty-
four hours it is fit to bottle. All the above precautions being
taken, the milk of roses will keep any time without precipitate
or creamy supernatation. These directions apply to all other
forms of milk now given.
MILK OF ALMONDS.
Bitter almonds (blanched;
. 10 oz.
Distilled (or rose) water . . . ;
. I quart
Alcohol (60 over proof) ....
. \ pint >
Otto of almonds
. \ drachm
„ bergamot
. 2 drachms
Wax, spermaceti, almond oil, curd soap .
each \ oz.
The imperial measure only is recognised among perfumers.
374 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
MILK OF ELDER.
Sweet almonds 4 oz.
Elder-flower water i pint
Alcohol (60 over proof) 8 oz.
Oilof elder-flowers, prepared by maceration . • i »
Wax, sperm, soap each ^ „
MILK OF DANDELION.
Sweet almonds 4 oz.
Rose-water i pint
Expressed juice of dandelion root . . . . i oz.
Esprit de tubereuse 8 „
Green oil, wax, curd soap . . . each J „
Let the juice of the dandelion be perfectly fresh pressed ; as it is in
itself an emulsion, it may be put into the mortar after the almonds are
broken up, and stirred with the water and spirit in the usual manner.
MILK OF CUCUMBER.
Sweet almonds 4 oz.
Expressed juice of cucumbers . . . .1 pint
Spirit (60 over proof) 8 oz.
Essence of cucumbers a pint
Green oil, wax, curd soap . . . each \ oz
Raise the juice of the cucumbers to the boiling point for half a minute,
cool it as quickly as possible ; then strain through fine muslin : proceed to
manipulate in the usual manner.
MILK OF PISTACHIO NUTS.
Pistachio nuts 3 oz.
Orange-flower water 3i pints
Esprit neroli 4 »
Palm soap, green oil, wax, spermaceti . each i oz.
LAIT VIRGINAL.
Rose-water i quart
Tincture Tolu ^ oz.
GLYCERINE LOTION. 375
Add the water very slowly to the tincture ; by so doing an opalescent
milky fluid is produced, which will retain its consistency for many years.
By reversing this operation, pouring the tincture into the water, a cloudy
precipitate of the resinous matter ensues, which does not again become
readily suspended in the water.
In France this Lait Virginal is most commonly made with
tincture of benzoin.
EXTRACT OF ELDER FLOWERS.
Elder-flower water i quart
Tincture benzoin I oz.
Manipulate as for Lait Virginal.
Similar compounds may, of course, be made with orange-
flower and other waters.
GLYCERINE LOTION.
Orange-flower water i gallon
Glycerine 8 oz.
Borax i „
Dr. Startin states that this is an excellent cosmetic.
Pure glycerine is now extensively used as a remedy for
chapped lips, and a very useful material it is ; however, being
' sticky,' it is very unpleasant to many people, who give pre-
ference to the glycerine jelly.
Pure glycerine is also used as a sort of bandoline, and
for making the hair glossy. Scented with otto of geranium
or rose, and tinted with aniline, it is now sold under the name
of mauve oil.
376 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION XIII.
COLD CREAM.
GALEN, the celebrated physician of Pergamus, in Asia,
but who distinguished himself at Athens, Alexandria,
and Rome, about 1,700 years ago, was the inventor of that
peculiar unguent, a mixture of grease and water, which is
now distinguished as cold cream in perfumery, and as Ceratum
Galeni in pharmacy.
The modern formula for cold cream is, however, quite a
different thing to that given in the works of Galen, in point
of odour and quality, although substantially the same — grease
and water. In perfumery there are several kinds of cold
cream, distinguished by their odour, such as that of camphor,
almond, violet, roses, &c. Cold cream, as made by English
perfumers, bears a high reputation, not only at home, but
throughout Europe ; the quantity exported, and which can
only be reckoned by jars in hundreds of dozens, and the
repeated announcements that may be seen in the shops on
the Continent, in Germany, France, and Italy, of ' Cold Creme
Anglaise,' is good proof of the estimation in which it is
held.
ROSE COLD CREAM.
Almond oil I lb.
Rose-water i ^^
White wax . . . . 1 r 1
„ . ■ \ of each . . i oz.
Spermaceti . . . .J
Otto of roses i drachm
Manipulation. — Into a well-glazed thick porcelain vessel,
COLD CREAM. 377
which should be deep in preference to shallow, and capable
of holding twice the quantity of cream that is to be made,
place the wax and sperm. Now put the jar into a boiling
bath of water ; when these materials are melted, add the
oil, and again subject the whole to heat until the flocks
of wax and sperm are liquefied. Now remove the jar and
contents, and set it under a runner containing the rose-water :
the runner may be a tin can, with a small tap at the bottom,
the same as used for the manufacture of milk of roses. A
stirrer must be provided, made of lancewood, flat, and per-
forated with holes the size of a sixpence, resembling in form
a large palette-knife. As soon as the rose-water is set run-
ning, the cream must be kept agitated until the whole of the
water has passed into it. Now and then the flow of water must
be stopped, and the cream which sets at the sides of the jar
scraped down, and incorporated with that which remains
fluid. In winter-time it is necessary to slightly warm the
rose-water, otherwise the cream sets before it is beaten
enough. When the whole of the water has been incorporated,
the cream will be cool enough to pour into the jars for sale ;
at that time the otto of rose is to be added. The reason for
the perfume being put in at the last moment is obvious —
the heat and subsequent agitation would cause unnecessary
loss by evaporation. Cold cream made in this way sets
quite firmly in the jars into which it is poured, and retains a
'face' resembling pure wax, although one half is water
retained in the interstices of the cream. When the pots are
well glazed, it will keep good for one or two years. If
desired for exportation to the East or West Indies, it should
always be sent out in stoppered bottles.
COLD CREAM OF ALMONDS
is prepared precisely as the above ; but in the place of otto
of roses otto of almonds is used.
378 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
VIOLET COLD CREAM.
Huile violette i lb.
Violet-water i „
Wax and spermaceti each i oz.
Otto of almonds ....... 5 drops
This is an elegant preparation, and generally admired.
TUBEREUSE, JASMINE, AND FLEUR D ORANGE COLD
CREAMS
are prepared in a similar manner to the above violet. They
are all very exquisite preparations ; but, as they cost more than
rose cold cream, perfumers are not much inclined to introduce
them in lieu of the latter.
CAMPHOR COLD CREAM (otherwise CAMPHOR ICE).
Almond oil i lb.
Rose-water 1 „
Wax and spermaceti i oz.
Camphor 2 „
Otto of rosemary i drachm
Melt the camphor, wax, and sperm, in the oil ; then manipulate as for
cold cream of roses.
Glycerine Cold Cream. — As rose cold cream has the
disadvantage of being difficult to keep, it is better to sub-
stitute glycerine for the water. A cold cream which will
keep and bear any climate is thus obtained.
CUCUMBER cold CREAM.
Almond oil 1 lb.
Green oil i oz.
Juice of cucumbers i lb.
Wax and sperm each i oz.
Essence of cucumber 2 ,
CUCUMBER COLD CREAM. 379
If in youth we were more careful, it is certain that, as we
progress onward in the journey of life, the exception would
be to see a person with the skin dull at an age when it ought
to have the most youthful freshness. The trouble of pre-
servation is far more simple, agreeable, and effectual than
that of restoration, to which it is necessary to have recourse
in order to repair the wrongs of a careless negligence.
Freckles are considered by the majority as inimical to beauty ;
we, however, are of the minority, and rather admire them.
They are the result of intermingling of race, of the dark
blood of the South with the fair Saxon. It is positive that
they indicate exuberant health — and what is more beautiful
than the hue of health .? As the summer advances, freckles
appear. If the skin is exposed to the sun, it is darkened like
a cherry or a peach that is ripening. The effect of the sun
upon a delicate skin is very rapid, and it becomes sun-burnt,
which in many instances produces inconvenience, attended
with slight pain. Of the various cosmetics invented for pre-
venting and remedying this evil, cucumber cream bears a
just reputation.
The cucumber juice is readily obtained by subjecting the
fruit to pressure in the ordinary tincture press. It must be
raised to a temperature high enough to coagulate the small
portion of albumen which it contains, and then strained
through fine linen. As the heat is detrimental to the odour,
on account of the great volatility of the otto of cucumber,
the following method may be adopted with advantage : —
Slice the fruit very fine with a cucumber-cutter, and place them in the
oil ; after remaining together for twenty-four hours, i-epeat the operation,
using fresh fruit in the strained oil. No warmth is necessary, or, at most,
not more than a summer heat. Then proceed to make the cold cream in
the usual manner, using the almond oil thus odorised, the rose-water,
and other ingredients in the regular way, perfuming with essence of cu-
cumber.
Another and commoner preparation of cucumber is found
38o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
dmong the Parisians, which is lard simply scented with the
juice from the fruit, thus : — The lard is liquefied by heat in a
vessel subject to a water bath; the cucumber juice is then
stirred well into it ; the vessel containing the ingredients is
now placed in a quiet situation to cool. The lard will rise to
the surface, and when cold must be removed from the fluid
juice ; the same manipulation being repeated as often as re-
quired, according to the strength of odour of the fruit desired
in the grease.
POMADE OF CUCUMBER.
Benzoinated lard 6 lbs.
Spermaceti ... .... 2 „
Spirit of cucumber i „
Melt the spermaceti with the lard ; then keep it constantly in motion
while it cools. Now beat the grease in a mortar, gradually adding the
essence of cucumbers ; continue to beat the whole until the spirit is
evaporated, and the pomade is beautifully white.
Apply it by rubbing a little all over the skin at bedtime,
and also by placing a piece about the size of a filbert on the
sponge or towel with the soap used in washing. A small
piece may also be rubbed over the skin with advantage be-
fore going into the sunshine, as when health and enjoyment
are sought on the sea-shore.
Melons and other similar fruit will scent grease treated in
the same way.
POMADE DIVINE.
Among the thousand and one quack nostrums, pomade
divine, Hke James's powder, has obtained a reputation far
above the most sanguine expectations of its concocters. This
article strictly belongs to the druggist, being sold as a re-
medial agent; nevertheless, what is sold is almost always
vended by the perfumer. It is prepared thus : — -
CAMPHOR PASTE.
381
Spermaceti
Lard
Almond oil
Gum benzoin
Vanilla beans
^Ib.
4 )»
\\ oz.
Digest the whole in a vessel heated by a water bath at a temperature
not exceeding go° C. After five or six hours it is fit to strain, and may
be poured into the bottles for sale.
(Must be stamped, if its medicinal qualities are stated.)
ALMOND BALLS.
Purified suet .
White wax
Otto of almonds
„ cloves .
f lb.
1 drachm
CAMPHOR BALLS.
Purified suet .... .
White wax
Camphor ....•>'
Otto of French lavender or rosemary
lb,
4 )»
Joz.
Both the above articles afe sold, either white or coloured
with alkanet root. When thoroughly melted, the material
is cast in a mould ; outiCe gallipots with smooth bottoms
answer very well for casting in. Some vendors use only
large pill-boxes.
CAMPHOR PASTE.
Almond oil \Vo.
Purified lard »
Wax, spermaceti, and camphor . ; . each i oz.
Beat up the ingredients as they cool, before pouring out.
382 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
GLYCERINE BALSAM.
White wax and spermaceti .... each i oz.
Almond oil ^ lb.
Glycerine . . . . . . . . 2 oz.
Otto of roses \ drachm
We cannot here discuss the remedial action of any of the
above preparations ; in giving the formulje, it is enough for
us that they are in demand by the public.
FINE ROSE LIP-SALVE.
Almond oil ^ lb.
Spermaceti and wax each 2 oz.
Alkanet root 2 „
Otto of roses i „
Place the wax, sperm oil, and alkanet root into a vessel heated by-
steam or water bath. After the materials are melted, they must digest on
the alkanet, to extract its colour, for at least four or five hours. Finally,
strain through fine muslin ; then add the perfume just before it cools.
WHITE LIP- SALVE.
Almond oil j. lb.
Wax and spermaceti each i oz.
Otto of almonds x drachm.
„ geranium j. ,^
After lip-salve has been poured into the pots and become
cold, a red-hot iron must be held over it for a minute or so, in
order that the heat radiated from the iron may melt the
surface of the salve and give it an even face.
CHERRY LIP-SALVE.
This is made in the same way as the fine rose lip-salve ;
with this difference— that the scent consists of one drachm
each of otto of bay and otto of almonds.
COMMON LIP-SALVE. 383
COMMON LIP-SALVE
is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, coloured with
alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to
every pound of salve.
VASELINE.
This substance is said to be a pure hydro-carbon, obtained
by filtration through animal charcoal from raw petroleum or
naphtha, which has been flowing for ages from natural springs
of it near Rangoon in Burmah, at Baku in Persia, and in
Ontario. It is probable that the so-called Vaseline is a
waste product of the Ozokerit or mineral wax used in the
manufacture of candles. Vaseline has many medical qualities,
and is particularly beneficial in cases of eczema and skin
eruptions generally. When nicely perfumed with otto of
roses, neroli, or geranium, it will be found to be a useful
appendage to the toilet.
384 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION XIV.
POMADES AATZ) OILS.
Through jasmine bowers and violet-scented vales
On silken pinions flew the wanton gales,
Stealing their odours from the plants they left,
Then whispered to the woods their spicy theft.
ACCORDING to ancient writers, the words unguent,
pomatum, ointment are synonymous titles for medicated
and perfumed greases. Among Biblical interpreters, the
significant word is mostly rendered ' ointment ; ' thus we have
in Prov. xxvii. 9, ' Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart ; '
in Eccles. ix. 8, ' Let thy head lack no ointment' ' The sons
of the priests made the ointments of the spices' (i Chron. ix.
30) ; ' Hezekiah was glad, and showed them his treasures, his
spices, and the precious ointment ' (Isa. xxxix. 2).
Oiling and greasing the hair is a custom pretty nearly
universal among the people of all civilised nations. There
are oil-glands on the scalp ; ' but their power of secretion is
very slight, except in a few rare instances ; in these cases
the hair is said to be naturally ' moist ' and soft. The
general rule is, that the hair grows harsh and ' dry ' for the
lack of natural oily secretion ; hence the instinctive application
of an artificial oil — a practice hallowed by its ancient custom,
and sanctioned as ' necessary,' from the Court beauty of St.
James's, to the belle of equatorial Africa. M. Du Chaillu,
' Gazenave, Traitl des maladies du cuir chcvelu, Paris, 1850.
POMADES AND OILS. 385
speaking of the use of njavi oil by the natives of Goumbi,
says : —
They mix the njavi oil with a kind of odoriferous powder csWeAyombo,
and this mixture is then applied in great quantities upon their wool {i.e.
hair). They think it gives out a pleasant fragrance, but I differ from them.
Now, oiling the" hair, besides making it glossy and soft, has
the infinite benefit of rendering it 'uninhabitable ;' a consider-
ation too often neglected in schools, and similar institutions.
The name of pomatum is derived horn fomum, an apple,
because it was originally made by macerating over-ripe apples
in grease.
If an apple be stuck all over with spice, such as cloves,
then exposed to the air for a few days, and afterwards
macerated in purified melted lard, or any other fatty matter,
the grease will become perfumed. Repeating the operation
with the same grease several times produces real ' pomatum.'
According to a recipe published more than a century ago,
the form given is : —
Kid's grease, an orange sliced, pippins, a glase of rose-water, and
half a glass of white wine, boiled and strained, and at last sprinkled with
oil of swept almonds.
The author. Dr. Quincy, observes, that ' the apple is of no
significance at all in the recipe ; ' and, like many authors of
the present day, concludes that the reader is as well ac-
quainted with the subject as the writer, and therefore con-
siders that the weights or bulk of the materials in his recipe
are likewise of no significance.
Perfumers, acting by experience or Dr. Quincy's advice,
pay no regard to the apples in the preparation of pomatum,
but make it by perfuming lard or suet, or a mixture of wax,
spermaceti, and oil, or some of them or all blended, to pro-
duce a particular result, according to the name that it bears.
The most important thing to consider in the manufacture
C C
386 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
of pomatum, &c., is to start off with a perfectly inodorous
grease, whatever that grease may be.
Inodorous lard is obtained thus : —
Take, say, 281bs. oi perfectly fresk lard, place it in a well-glazed vessel,
that can be submitted to the heat of a boiling salt-water bath, or by steam
under a slight pressure ; when the lard is melted, add to it one ounce of
powdered alum and two ounces of table salt ; maintain the heat for some
time, in fact, till a scum rises, consisting in a great measure of coagulated
proteine compounds, membrane, &c., which must be skimmed off ; when
the liquid grease appears of a uniform nature, it is allowed to grow cold.
The lard is now to be washed. This is done in small portions at a
time, and is a work of much labour, which, however, is amply repaid by
the result. About a pound of the grease is now placed on a slate slab, a
little on the incline, a supply of good water being set to trickle over it ;
the surface of the grease is then constantly renewed by an operative
working a muUer over it, precisely as a colour-maker grinds paints in oil.
In this way the water removes any traces of alum or salt, also the last
traces of nitrogenous matter. Finally, the grease, when the whole is
washed in this way, is remelted, the heat being maintained enough to
drive off any adhering water. When cold it is finished.
Although purifying grease in this way is troublesome, and
takes a good deal of time, yet, unless done so, it is totally unfit
for perfuming with flowers, because a bad grease will cost
more in perfume to cover its mal odeur than the expense of
thus deodorising it. Moreover, if lard be used that ' smells of
the pig,' it is next to impossible to impart to it any delicate
odour ; and if strongly perfumed by the addition of ottos, the
unpurified grease will not keep, but quickly become rancid.
Under any circumstances, therefore, grease that is not perfectly
inodorous is a very expensive material to use in the manu-
facture of pomades.
In the south and flower-growing countries, where the fine
pomades are made by Enfleurage, or by MACERATION, the
purification of grease for the purpose of these manufactures
is of sufficient importance to become a separate trade.
The purification of beef and mutton suet is in a great
measure the same as that for lard : the greater solidity of
PURIFYING GREASE. 387
suets requires a mechanical arrangement, for washing them, of
a more powerful nature than can be applied by hand labour.
Mr. Ewen, of Garlick Hill, who is an extensive lard and fat-
purifier in London, employs a stone roller rotating upon a
circular slab ; motion is given to the roller by an axle which
passes through the centre of the slab, or rather stone bed,
upon which the suet is placed ; being higher in the centre
than at the sides, the stream of water flows away after it has
once passed over the suet ; in other respects the treatment is
the same as for lard. These greases used by perfumers have
a general title of ' body,' tantamount to the French nomen-
clature of corps ; thus we have pomades of hard corps (suet),
pomades of soft corps (lard). When drawing extraits from ■
the enfleuraged- grease, such as extrait de violette, jasmin, the
pomades of hard corps are to be preferred ; but when scented
pomade is to be used in fabrication of unguents for the hair,
pomades of soft corps are the most useful.
The following process of purifying grease prior to en-
fleurage has been expressly written for this work by M.
Auguste Bermond, of Nice ; —
fiPURATION DES GRAISSES.
Choisissez les graisses toujours les plus fraiches, en otant toutes les
fibres et petites peaux qui peuvent les corrompre.
Pour cinquante kilogs. de graisse. — Vous la coupez par morceaux, en-
suite vous la pilez dans un mortier en pierre ou marbre. De suite qu'elle
est bien dcras^e, il faut la laver, et la faire ddgorger dans de I'eau fraiche.
II faut r^pdter le lavage au moins six fois, jusqu'k ce que toute I'eau soit
claire comme quand vous la mettez. Cette operation terminSe, faites
fondre la graisse, en y ajoutant cent grammes d'alun de glace pulvdrisfee,
et une poign^e de sel marin ; faites bouillir, et ^cumez quelques secondes.
Aprfes, passez la graisse fondue &, travers un linge pas trop serrd, sans
trop presser les cretons, soit le marc, que vous r^servez pour vos pom-
mades communes. Vous laissez reposer la graisse dans un grand recipient
environ deux heures ; ensiiite, vous retirez votre graisse au clair sans y
laisser d'eau.
c c 2
388 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Vous remettez aprfes la graisse fondue k feu nu, avec trois ou quatre-
litres d'eau de rose, et cent cinquante grammes de benjoin bien en poudre ;
vous faites bouillir petit k petit, en retirant sans cesse lYcume que fait la
graisse ; quand aprfes une heure environ vous vous apercevez qu'il ne sort
plus d'dcume, vous retirez tout le feu, vous laissez reposer le melange quatre
ou cinq heures ; ensuite vous tirez au clair dans des jarres ou cuvettes
en fer-blanc, et I'opdration est termin^e. Laissez toujours quelques livres
de corps au fond, dans la crainte qu'il ne passe pas d'eau ; cette mati^re
vous servira k d'autres emplois. Pour dpurer la graisse de bceuf, vous
faites la m6me chose.
Pour dviter que votre corps avec les chaleurs ne tourne pas au gras,
vous mettrez cent kilogs. de graisse de pore, vingt-cinq kilogs. de graisse
de boeuf en €x.i, ou moiti^ par moitid.
Which may be briefly rendered : —
Take one hundredweight of perfectly fresh grease, either of lard or
beef suet ; cut the grease into small pieces, and well pound it in a mortar ;
when it is well crushed, wash it with water repeatedly, so long, in fact,
until the water is as clear after withdrawing the grease as before it was
put in. The grease has now to be melted over a slow fire, adding thereto
about three ounces of crystallised alum in powder, and a handful of sea
salt (common salt) ; now let the grease boil, but allow it to bubble for a
few seconds only ; then strain the grease through fine linen, into a deep
pan, and allow it to stand, to clear itself from all impurities, for about
two hours. The clear grease is then again to be put into the pan, over a
bright fire, adding thereto about three or four quarts of rose-water, and
about five ounces of powdered gum benzoin : it is allowed to boil gently,
and all scum that rises is to be removed, until it ceases to be produced ;
finally the grease is put into deep pans, and when cold taken carefully off
the sedimentary water ; it is then fit for use, and may be kept for an in-
definite period, without changing or turning rancid.
It will be observed that the principal feature in this pro-
cess is the use of the benzoin.
Dr. Redwood has recently directed the attention of
chemists ' to the fact that certain ointments, particularly zinc
ointment, will not become rancid, if a little gum benzoin, or
benzoic acid, is added to it when made. That such is the case,
there is little doubt ; for it has been remarked that the pre-
pared fat used by the flower farmers in the process of en-
' Pharmaceutical Journal, vol. xiv. No. 5.
UNGUENTS. 389
fleurage will remain sweet for some years, provided that it be
digested for a time over gum benzoin, in the process of its
purification — a practice that has been generally worked for
this century at Grasse, Cannes, and Nice. It therefore
becomes only a question of experiment, to determine whether
benzoin be a true antiseptic to all fatty bodies.
Fatty bodies, under the influence of nitrogenised sub-
stances (albumen, blood, &c.), are oxidised, and acidified, and
undergo a kind of fermentation, which is called rancio. This
change must be resisted as far as possible. Repeated wash-
ings in water and fusion at a mild temperature are in most
cases sufficient. These fatty bodies may be perfectly pre-
served and their spontaneous acidification prevented by the
addition of a small quantity of resin or of a balsam. Benzoin
lard is prepared with benzoin, as we have just said ; if balsam
of Tolu is added to it, it takes the name of Tolu lard — for
this purpose to be exhausted with warm water ; that is to say,
the residuum after preparation of the syrup of Tolu.
The method of perfuming grease by the direct process
with flowers having already been described, under the re-
spective names of the flowers that impart the odour thereto,
it remains now only to describe those compounds that are
made from them, together with such incidental matter con-
nected with this branch of perfumery as has not been pre-
viously mentioned.
Although the unguents properly so called are not em-
ployed in perfumery, it is important to show the distinction
which must be drawn between these preparations and
pomades.
Unguents, whatever be their degree of consistence, are
mixtures in variable proportions of fatty bodies, wax, oils, and
resins, with a variety of substances. The essential difference
between pomades and unguents is that the former never
contain resins. Pomades are divisible into several classes
390 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
— those prepared by solution (camphorated pomade, and
most sweet-smelling pomades employed in perfumery), and
pomades by simple mixture, such as oxide of zinc pomade.
Philocome is nothing but wax and oil.
OIL OF BEN OR BEHEN.
Undoubtedly this is the finest fat oil which a perfumer
could use ; it is nearly free from colour, is tasteless and in-
odorous ; it remains for a lengthened period free from rancidity ;
indeed, some authors say, it ' never ' becomes rancid — a
sample which I have placed in a position in which all other
oils would be spoilt in a year is still perfectly sweet though
nearly six years old. At one period the oil of ben consti-
tuted a valuable branch of commerce with the East, but ex-
cessive imposts and extensive adulterations threw it out of
the market.
In the hope of restoring so valuable an article to its
merited position, I am induced thus to speak of a commodity,
though but little of it can at the present time be commercially
obtained. The oil is yielded by expression from the seeds
of the Moringa pterygosperma or oil of behen tree, Guertn.,
Hyperanthera moringa, Willd., now naturalised in the West
Indies. The seeds are said to yield twenty-five per cent, of
oil, which at a price say of five guineas a hundred-weight— the
present market value of sweet almond oil — would surely offer
sufl[icient mercantile inducement for its production ; but there
is every reason to believe that it would realise never less than
\ol. per cwt. in the open market. For making cold cream
and all kinds of unguents, it would prove invaluable and with-
out a competitor. Supposing that it would 'not pay' its
producers to ship it in its natural state, they could enflower
it with the flowers of the plumeria, acacia, jasmin-grandiflora,
and pancratium, and numerous other flowers which abound
PARAFFIN. 391
and bloom unregarded ; it would then yield six to eight
shillings a pound !
The seeds of the apterous ben, Moringa aptera, Guertn.,
likewise produce a highly prized oil. They are known as the
white nuts of ben ; and the grey nuts of ben, which are less
valued, are attributed to the Moringa disperma.
PARAFFIN,
that is, the true solid wax-like inodorous substance pro-
curable by low distillation of boghead mineral, Irish bog
peat, &c., &c., is an article that will find several uses in
perfumery in place of bees' wax. I have said it is wax-
like ; but in truth on account of its crystalline character it
more resembles spermaceti, and has also the semi-transpa-
rency of that body.
Young's Patent Paraffin Company have generously
supplied me with some fine samples of the sperm-like paraffin,
which they say can be supplied in quantity at \s. i,d. per lb.
This, being 40 per cent, cheaper than wax, will of a certainty
find its own market. From a variety of experiments I con-
clude that paraffin is a valuable adjunct to perfumery, in the
manufacture of pomades, &c., which have to be exported to
hot climates. .
Paraffin takes its name from the Latin parum affinis, in-
tended to express its want of chemical affinity with other
bodies. It was formerly extracted almost exclusively from
coal-tar, and from the products of the distillation of coal ;
but it is now made, or rather extracted, from a schist coal by
Young's process to an enormous extent.
Paraffin crystallises in beautiful pearly scales, fusible at
43°. It is volatilised without decomposition, and burns with
a white flame. It is soluble in ether, and hardly soluble in
alcohol. These pomades are not liable to become rancid.
392 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
ACACIA POMADE, COMMONLY CALLED CASSIE POMATUM,
is made with a purified body-grease, by maceration with
the little round yellow flower-heads of the Acacia Farnesiana}
Black-currant leaves, which the French term cassis, have
an odour very much resembling cassie (acacia), and are used
extensively for adulterating the true acacia pomades and oils.
The near similarity of name, their analogous odour (although
the plants have no botanical connection), together with the
word cassia, a familiar perfume in England, have produced
generally confused ideas in this country as to the true origin
of the odour now under discussion. Cassie, cassis, cas.sia, it
will be understood now, are three distinct substances ; and in
order to render the matter more perspicuous in future, the
materials will always be denominated ACACiA, if prepared from
the Acacia Farnesiana ; Casse, when from black-currant :, and
Cassia, if derived from the bark of the Cinnamomum Cassia.
BENZOIN POMADE AND OIL.
Benzoic acid is perfectly soluble in hot grease. Half an
ounce of benzoic acid, being dissolved in half a pint of hot
olive or almond oil, deposits, on cooling, beautiful acicular
crystals, similar to the crystals that effloresce from Vanilla
beans ; a portion of the acid, however, remains dissolved in
the oil at the ordinary temperature, and imparts to it the
peculiar aroma of benzoin. Upon this idea is based the
principle of perfuming grease with gum benzoin by the direct
process — that is, by macerating powdered gum benzoin in
melted suet or lard for a few hours at a temperature of
about 80° C. to 90° C. Nearly all the gum resins give up
' I have placed a few of these plants in the Botanic Gardens, Regent's Paris,
and some seeds have been planted at Kew.
VANILLA OIL AND POMADE. 393
their odoriferous principle to fatty bodies wlien treated in the
same way ; this fact becoming generally known, will probably
give rise to the preparation of some new remedial ointments,
such as Unguentuvt myrrhce, Unguentum assafcetida, and the
like.
Myrrh, assafcetida, and many other resins and gum-resins,
were formerly ingredients in various preparations.
TONQUIN POMADE AND TONQUIN OIL
are prepared by macerating the ground Tonquin beans in
either melted fat or warm oil, from twelve to twenty-eight
hours, in the proportion of
Tonquin beans ^ lb.
Fat or oil 4 „
Strain through fine muslin ; when cold, the grease will have a fine
odour of the beans.
Messrs. Max Brothers, of Paris, prepare the true Cou-
MARINE principle from Tonquin beans, which may be advan-
tageously used for scenting oil, fat, and spirit. This firm also
prepare Vanilline from Vanilla, and an article they term
Heliotropine, extracted from the common Vanillon : all are in
white crystals.
VANILLA OIL AND POMADE.
Vanilla pods j lb.
Fat or oil 4 „
Macerate at a temperature of 25" C, for three or four days ; finally
strain.
These pomatums and oils, together with the French pomades
and huiles already described, constitute the foundation of
the preparations of all the best hair greases sold by per-
394 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
fumers. Inferior scented pomatums and oils are prepared by-
perfuming lard, suet, wax, oil, &c., with various ottos. The
results however, in many instances more expensive than the
foregoing, are actually inferior in their odour or bouquet ; for
grease, however slightly perfumed by maceration or enfleurage
with flowers, is far more agreeable to the olfactory nerve than
when scented by ottos.
The following named greases have obtained great popu-
larity, mainly because their perfume is lasting and flowery.
POMADE CALLED BEARS' GREASE.
The most popular and ' original ' bears' grease is made
thus : —
of each . . ^ lb.
Huile de rose .
„ fleur d'orange .
„ acacia
„ tubereuse and jasmin j
Almond oil lO lbs.
Lard 12
Acacia pomade 2
Otto of bergamot j oz.
„ cloves -5
IMelt the solid greases and oils together by a water bath, then add the
ottos.
Bears' grease thus prepared is just hard enough to 'set' in
the pots at a summer heat. In very warm weather, or if
required for exportation to the East or West Indies, it is
necessary to use in part French pomatums instead of oils, or
more lard and less almond oil,
ALPACA POMATUM.
The fat of the alpaca, together with other useful products
from this animal, was first sent as an exhibit from Australia to
CRYSTALLISED LEMON ICE. 395
the London Exhibition of 1862. Bears' grease has had its
dayv^poor Bruin is dead, Alpaca now reigns in his place ; but
even alpaca was mortal ; enough grease could not be got
'genuine' from the Silky Goat. However, the washed pomatum
which at all times is a large by-product in the laboratory of a
wholesale manufacturing perfumer offers itself as a superior
substitute for the original. ' Heads of Families ' are now
supplied with alpaca pomatum, made thus : —
Washed pomatum 21 lbs.
Olive oil 7 J)
Otto of nutmeg 2 oz.
As with other mixed grease, the proportion of oil must vary for
climate and season.
CIRCASSIAN CREAM.
Purified lard I lb.
Benzoin suet i „
French rose pomatum i „
Almond oil, coloured with alkanet . . . • 2 „
Otto of rose i oz,
BALSAM OF FLOWERS.
French rose pomatum 1 2 oz.
„ violet pomatum 12,,
Almond oil .... . . . 2 lbs.
Otto of bergamot i oz.
CRYSTALLISED LEMON ICE.
This is a very favourite unguent or pomade among the
people of the West Indian Islands and is made thus : —
Almond oil 2j lbs.
Spermaceti or paraffin wax 8 oz.
Otto of Montserrat lime . • 1 of each . • l n ■
„ Portugal zeste . . ]
396 ' THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
CRYSTALLISED OIL.
First quality.
Huile de rose i lb.
^, tubereuse I ,,
„ fleur d'orange \ „
Spermaceti \ ,,
Second quality.
Almond . 2| lbs.
Spermaceti . . . . . . . . \ „
Otto of lemon 3 oz.
Melt the spermaceti in a vessel heated by a water bath, then add tha
oils ; continue the heat until all flocks disappear ; let the jars into which
it is poured be warm ; cool as slowly as possible, to ensure good crystals.
If cooled rapidly, the mass congeals without the appearance of crystals.
This preparation has a very nice appearance, and so far
sells well ; but its continued use for anointing the hair renders
the head scurfy ; indeed the crystals of sperm may be combed
out of the hair in flakes after it has been used a week or
two.
CASTOR OIL POMATUM.
Tubereuse pomatum I lb.
Castor oil ^ „
Almond oil ^ „
Otto of bergamot i oz.
BALSAM OF NEROLl.
French rose pomatum ^ lb.
„ jasmine pomatum i „
Almond oil a ,.
Otto of neroli i drachm
COMMON VIOLET POMATUM.
'397
MARROW CREAM.
Purified lard .
Almond oil
Palm oil .
Otto of cloves .
„ bergamot
,, lemon .
lib.
I ,,
I oz.
\ drachm
ioz.
MARROW POMATUM.
Purified lard .
„ suet .
Otto of lemon .
„ bergamot
4 lbs.
I oz.
„ cloves 3 drachms
Melt the greases ; then beat them up with a whisk, or flat wooden
spatula, for half an hour or mbre ; as the grease cools, minute vesicles of
air are enclosed by the pomatum, which not only increase the bulk of
the mixtures, but impart a peculiar mechanical aggregation, rendering
the pomatum light and spongy. In this state it is obvious that it fills out
more pots than otherwise, and hence is more profitable.
COMMON VIOLET POMATUM.
Purified lard . . .... i lb.
Washed acacia pomatum . . . . . 6 oz.
„ rose pomatum 4 „
Manipulate as for marrow pomatum.
In all the cheap preparations for the hair, the manufactur-
ing perfumers use the washed French pomatums and the
washed French oils for making their greases. Washed poma-
tums and washed oils are those greases that originally have
been the best pomatums and huiles prepared by enfleurage
and by maceration with the flowers ; which pomades and
huiles have been subjected to digestion in alcohol for the
398 ^ THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
manufacture of essences for the handkerchief. After the spirit
has been on the pomatums, &c., it is poured off ; the residue
is then called washed pomatum, and still retains an odour
strong enough for the manufacture of most hair greases.
For pomatums of other odours it is only necessary to sub-
stitute rose, jasmine, tubereuse, and others, in place of the
acacia pomatum in the above formulae.
POMADES DOUBLES, MILLEFLEURS.
Rose, jasmine, fleur d'orange, violet, tubereuse, &c., are all
made, in winter with two-thirds best French pomatum, one-
third best French oils ; in summer, equal parts.
POMMADE A LA HELIOTROPE.
French rose pomade . . . . i lb.
Vanilla oil x
Huile de jasmin . 4 oz.
„ tubereuse . 2
„ fleur d'orange .... 2 „
Otto of almonds 6 drops
cloves -x
* J 77
HUILE ANTIQUE A LA HELIOTROPE.
Same as the above, substituting rose oil for the pomade.
PIIILOCOME.
The name of this preparation, which is a compound of two
Greek words (0tXosand «o/Aiy), signifying 'a friend to the hair,'
was first introduced by the Parisian perfumers ; and a very
good name it is, for philocome is undoubtedly one of the best
unguents for the hair that is made.
POMMADE HONGROISE.
399
PHILOCOME.
First quality.
White wax ... . . lo oz.
French rose oil . . . i lb.
„ acacia oil | „
„ jasmine oil | „
„ fleur d'orange oil i „
„ tubereuse oil i „
Melt the wax in the oils by a water bath at the lowest possible tem-
perature. Stir the mixture as it cools ; do not pour out the philocome
until it is nearly cool enough to set ; let the jars, bottles, or pots, into
which it is filled for sale, be slightly warmed, or at least of the same tem-
perature as the philocome, otherwise the bottles chill the material as it is
poured in, and make it appear of an uneven texture.
Second qualit
y-
White wax
. 5 oz.
Almond oil
. 2 lbs.
Otto of bergamot
. I oz.
„ lemon .
• • ■ i „
„ lavender
2 dra
„ cloves .
• I ,
LUSTRAL FLUID.
Take i oz. of wax to i lb. of oil, and scent as above.
POMMADE HONGROISE.
Eor the Moustache.
White wax ....
. I lb.
Oil soap
. . . \ „
Gum arabic ....
. . . A„
Rose-water ....
. I pmt
Otto of bergamot .
. I oz.
„ thyme.
. J drachm
400 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Melt the gum and the soap in the water by a gentle heat, then add
the wax, constantly stirring the ingredients together ; when of a uniform
consistency, put in the perfume.
If required to be tinted, use burnt umber ground in oil (sold in tubes
by the artists' colourmen), for shades of brown ; or for black, stain with
ivory black in oil, the same as for the brown shade.
WHITE HARD OR STICK POMATUMS.
Benzoinated suet . . . . . . . I lb.
White wax or paraffin . . . . . i „
Jasmine pomatum \ „
Tubereuse pomatum . .... J „
Otto of rose . . i drachm
WHITE BATONS OR COSMETICS.
Suet . I lb.
Wax or paraffin . j „
Otto of bergamot ... . . . i oz.
„ cassia i drachm
„ thyme ^ „
BROWN AND BLACK BATONS
are also in demand. They are made in the same way as the
above, but coloured with lamp-black or umber ground in al-
mond oil. Such colours are best purchased ready ground at
an artists' colourman's.
BLACK AND BROWN COSMETIQUE,
such as is sold under the name of Water Cosmetic, is pre-
pared with a nicely scented soap, strongly coloured with lamp-
black or with umber. The soap is melted, and the colour added
while the soap is soft ; when cold, it is cut up into oblong
pieces.
It is used as a temporary dye for the moustache, applied
with a small brush and water.
HAIR-DYES AND DEPILATORY. 401
SECTION XV.
HAIR-DYES AND DEPILATORY.
BY way of personal adornment, few practices are of more
ancient origin than that of painting the face, dyeing the
hair, and blackening the eyebrows and eyelashes.
It is a practice universal among the women of the higher
and middle classes in Egypt, and very common among those
of the lower orders, to blacken the edge of the eyelids, both
above and below the eye, with a black powder, which they
term kohol. The kohol is applied with a small probe of wood,
ivory, or silver, tapering towards the end, but blunt. This is
moistened sometimes with rose-water, then dipped in the
powder, and drawn along the edges of the eyelids. It is
thought to give a very soft expression to the eye, the size of
which, in appearance, it enlarges ; to which circumstance, pro-
bably, Jeremiah refers when lie writes, ' Though thou rentest
thy face (or thine eyes) with painting, in vain shalt thou make
thyself fair.' ' Ezekiel (ch. xxiii, 40) reproveth Aholah, —
' for whom thou didst wash thyself, paintedst thy eyes, and
deckedst thyself
A singular custom is observable both among Moorish and
Arab females — that of ornamenting the face between the eyes
with clusters of bluish spots or other small devices, which,
being stained, become permanent. The chin is also spotted
in a similar manner, and a narrow blue line extends from the
' Jer. iv. 40. See also Lane's Modem Egyptians, vol. i. p. 41, et seq.
D D
402 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
point of it, and is continued down the throat. The eyelashes,
eyebrows, and also the tips and extremities of the eyelids, are
coloured black. The soles, and sometimes other parts of the
feet, as high as the ankles, the palms of the hands, and the
nails, are dyed with a yellowish red with the leaves of a plant
called henna ^, or alkanna of Cyprus and Egypt {Lawsonia
inermis), the leaf of which somewhat resembles the myrtle,
and is dried for the purposes above mentioned. The ground
leaves of the henna are made into a paste with lime-water,
then applied to the skin, hair, or nails, and left on several
hours ; the colour thus imparted will last several weeks. The
back of the hand is also often coloured and ornamented in
this way with different devices. On holidays they paint their
cheeks of a red brick colour, a narrow red line being also
drawn down the temples.
The Persians, young and old alike, dye their hair and
beard every week. We have had an opportunity of examin-
ing two powders which they use for this purpose. These had
been sent by Ferukh Khan to Professor Trousseau. One of
them, consisting of henna, stains the hair a golden yellow
colour; the other stains it blue. This is certainly an indigo-
bearing plant the name of which is unknown to us. They
first apply the henna, in the form of a paste made with water ;
with this they cover the head, and after half-an-hour they
apply the blue powder in the same manner, and obtain thus a
fine colour of crow's-wing black.
Similar customs are still prevalent in Persia. Lady Shell,
speaking of the Shah's mother, says : —
The palms of her hands and tips of her fingers were dyed red with a
herb called henna, and the edges of the inner part of the eyelids were
coloured with antimony. All the Kajars have naturally large arched
eyebrows ; but, not satisfied with this, the women enlarge them by
' This plant is referred to in the Song of Solomon, under the name of
'Camphire,' but as Henna it is sold by Piesse and Lubin, of Bond Street.
ARABIAN AND PERSIAN DYES. 403
doubling their real size with great streaks of antimony : her cjieeks were
well rouged, as is the invariable custom among Persian women of all
classes .'
In Greece, for ' colouring the lashes and sockets of the eye, they throw
incense or gum labdanum on some coals of fire ; the smoke which ascends
is intercepted with a plate, in order to collect the soot. This I saw applied.
A girl sitting, cross-legged as usual, on a sofa, closing one of her eyes, took
the two lashes between the fore-finger and thumb of her left hand, pulled
them forward, and then thrusting in, at the external corner, a sort of
bodkin or probe, which had been immersed in the soot, and withdrawing
it, the particles previously adhering to the probe remained within the eye-
lashes.' ^
Dr. Shaw states that, among other curiosities that were
taken out of the tombs at Sahara relating to Egyptian women,
he saw a joint of the common reed, which contained one of
these bodkins, and an ounce or more of this powder.
In England, a similar practice is adopted by many persons
whose hair is grey ; but instead of using the black material in
the form of a powder, it is employed as a crayon, the colour
being mixed with a greasy body, such as the brown and black
stick pomatums described in the previous article.
The question has been frequently discussed, ' Is hair subject
to sudden changes in colour.?' and was answered in the nega-
tive by Dr. Davy, in a paper read before the British Associa-
tion at Manchester, 1861.
The popular notion is decidedly in favour of the affirmative,
and many naturalists and physiologists have come to the same
conclusion. They adduce instances of the change of the hair
to white or grey, in the case of persons under strong emotions
of grief or terror. Haller, in his Elementa Physiologice, refers
to eight authorities for examples of such changes ; but all
that he seems to admit for himself is that under the influence
of impaired health such a change may take place slowly.
Marie Antoinette was cited by favourers of the popular notion,
as a striking and well authenticated instance ; but when fairly
' Glimpses of Life in Persia. '' Chandler's Travels in Greece.
404 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
■considered, the case came under the condition admitted by
Haller.
During the confinement of Marie Antoinette, the Queen of
France, by the Jacobins of Paris, she was deprived of the use
of the cosmetics with which she was wont to give the raven
hue to her naturally silver locks ; and history, in describing
her execution, represents her hair as changing from a jet black
to grey colour through the mental anguish she experienced.
Had it been possible for mental emotion, whether of
terror or of grief, to render her hair suddenly grey, surely in
the Queen's case the change should have been witnessed at an
earlier period than that of the arrest of the Royal Family in
their attempt to leave France. If such a sudden change could
be presumed, might we not expect to witness it in soldiers
engaged in an active campaign amidst all the dangers and
horrors of war .' Dr. Davy had himself examined thousands
of soldiers, men prematurely worn out in various climates,
and concerned in many a hard-fought battle — many of them
grievously wounded — but he never met with an instance of
the kind.
The transactions of the Royal Society, extending over 200
years, do not contain an instance of such change in the colour of
the hair — a circumstance opposed to the conclusion that it ever
took place, for had it ever been undoubtedly witnessed, it is not
likely that it would have remained undescribed. The author is
not aware that, irrespective of recorded evidence, anything in
support of the popular notion can be adduced on physiological
grounds. Human hair cannot be injected. Using colouring
fluids, such as a solution of nitrate of silver and a solution of
iodine, the author has not observed any change of colour, ex-
cept in the portions actually immersed. Whether it owes its
colour to a fixed oil, to a peculiar arrangement of its constitu-
tional molecules, or to both, it resists decay in a remarkable
manner ; it resists the action of acids and alkalies, except the
CHANGE IN THE COLOUR OF THE HAIR. 405
strongest, which dissolve it. It resists maceration and even
boiling water, except continued for a long time, and under
pressure, when it suffers disintegration and decomposition.
Exposure to the sun will bleach hair, but this will not account
for any very sudden change of colour. Supporters of the
popular opinion refer to changes in the plumage of birds, such
as the ptarmigan, and in the hair of certain quadrupeds, such
as the mountain hare and ermine, which become white towards
winter, and of a darker hue when the winter is past.
Mr. Erasmus Wilson, who advocates the popular doctrine,
refers to the case of a lemming in support of his views; but
Mr. Blyth, a naturalist, says that he examined a lemming
killed during its autumnal change, and satisfied himself that
' the white hairs were all new and not the brown changed in
colour.' There are reasons why it might be expected that the
summer coat and plumage should be darker than those of
winter. The author concludes that whether we consider one
side of the question or the other — the human evidence so
questionable, the physiological so much more reliable — the
idea of fallacy is unavoidable, as to the hair being subject to
sudden change of colour from mental impression.
The attempts made to explain such a change by physio-
logists are allowed to be complete failures ; and more amus-
ing attempts had been made to explain the phenomenon on
other grounds than those of fallacy. Dr. Davy, when on
foreign service, knew an assistant surgeon of a regiment who
had become insane, and whom he visited a fortnight or three
weeks subsequently. The patient's hair, before brown, had
become grey ; but when he called attention to the fact, the
regimental surgeon simply said, 'Your surprise will cease,
when you know that has, since he has been afflicted with
his malady, discontinued dyeing his hair.'
The assassin Orsini, who was executed in Paris for at-
tempting the life of Napoleon III. and ruthlessly murdering
4o6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
twelve innocent persons, presented the same apparently strange
anomaly from the same cause. When Orsini was arrested, his
luxuriant locks were as black as night, but when guillotined,
they were of an iron grey colour, simply because he either
neglected his toilet, or else was deprived of the usual hair-dye
he previously employed to give them their black colour. His
friends, and the papers generally, attribute the change to
another cause, of course, and we have no doubt that history
will represent the effect as being produced by the mental
activity and agony he experienced during his incarceration.
As a rule, all hair-dyes should be avoided ; in almost
every case the process is prejudicial to the unities which tend
to form that harmonious whole, which we call personal beauty.
The chief characteristics of beauty, independent of form, are
the complexion, the eyes and the hair ; and therefore the first
question to be asked, before attempting to change the colour
of so important an auxiliary to beauty as the hair, should
naturally be — ' Will the change suit the complexion and the
eyes } ' The Teutonic beauty of Anglo-Saxons and Anglo-
Normans has come down tO' the people of Great Britain along
with the practical common sense of the one, and the lofty
bearing of the other. The mass of female loveliness which
graces the land is therefore essentially 'fair' — white and clear,
in contradistinction to brown and dark. A clear rosy com-
plexion, blue eyes, and hair more or less auburn, are all the
most prevalent. Now, to change either the colour of
the complexion or of the hair is to destroy the unities of
such a style of beauty, because the eye cannot be changed en
suite ; and it produces the same incongruous effect as an ill-
dressed woman often presents by a display of ill-assorted
colours in her attire. 'Fair' persons are seldom, if ever,
improved in appearance by the process of hair-dyeing. Such
persons who do not exhibit these marked features of Teutonic
extraction, in whose veins commingles the blood of a more
TURKISH HAIR-DYE. ^oy
southern race — whose dark or brown complexion, gazelle-like
eyes, and raven hair, tend to form that style of beauty we
designate 'brunette' — should age trip up youth, or their locks
become prematurely grey or silver white, may call in the aid
of art to restore the hair to its original tint without infringing
the principles of the harmony of colour. If the hair be too
glowing, too bright an auburn to assimilate well with the eyes,
or with the blush of the cheek, then its redness can be artifi-
cially lowered by the application of an article sold under the
name of walnut-water, but which in reality consists of a solu-
tion of plumbate of potash, and is made by dissolving freshly
precipitated oxide of lead in liquor potassa to saturation.
KOHOL.
The word Kohol is derived from the Hebrew, and signifies
to paint. The oriental females were, and are still, in the
habit of painting the eyebrows with various pigments ; the one
generally employed is sulphide of antimony finely levigated.
This custom has at length to a small extent been adopted in
England, but the kohol employed here does not contain anti-
mony, but consists of a solution of Chinese (Indian) ink in rose-
water. To prepare the kohol, a stick of the Chinese ink, of
about half an ounce weight, is to be reduced to a fine powder
in a mortar — a task of no little difficulty; half a pint of hot
rose-water is then to be rubbed gradually into the powder
till the whole is uniformly fluid, which it will not be unless
it is repeatedly triturated for two days. Kohol thus made
is applied to the eye-lashes and brows with a fine camel's
hair pencil.
TURKISH HAIR-DYE.
In Constantinople there are some persons, particularly
Armenians, who devote themselves to the preparation of
4o8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
cosmetics, and obtain large sums of money from those
desirous of learning this art. Amongst these cosmetics is a
black dye for the hair, which, according to M. Landerer of
Athens, is prepared in the following manner : —
Finely pulverised galls are kneaded with a little oil to a
paste, which is roasted in an iron pan until the oil vapours
cease to evolve, upon which the residue is triturated with
water into a paste, and heated again to dryness. At the
same time a metallic mixture, which is brought from Egypt
to the commercial marts of the East, and which is termed in
Turkish Rastikopetra, or Rastik- Yuzi, is employed for this
purpose. This metal, which looks like dross, is by some
Armenians intentionally fused, and consists of iron and
copper. It obtains its name from its use in dyeing or stain-
ing the hair, and particularly the eyebrows — for rastik means
eyebrows, and yuzi stone. The fine powder of this metal is
as intimately mixed as possible with the moistened gall mass
into a paste, which is preserved in a damp place, by which it
acquires the blackening property. In some cases this mass is
mixed with the powder of odorous substances which are used
ill the seraglio as perfumes, and called karsi — that is, pleasant
odour ; and of these the principal ingredient is ambergris. To
blacken the hair, a little of this dye is triturated in the hand
or between the fingers, with which the hair or beard is well
rubbed. After a few days the hair becomes very beautifully
black, and it is a real pleasure to see such fine black beards as
are met with in the East among the Turks who use this black
dye. Another and important advantage in the use of this
dye consists herein, that the hair remains soft, pliant, and for
a long time black, when it has been once dyed with this
substance. That the colouring properties of this dye are to
be chiefly ascribed to the pyrogallic acid, which can be found
by treating the mass with water, may be with certainty
assumed.
SIMPLE SILVER DYE. 409
LITHARGE HAIR-DYE.
Powdered litharge 2 lbs.
Quicklime • . . . J lb.
Calcined magnesia \ „
Slake the lime, using as little water as possible, to make it disinte-
grate, then mix the whole by a sieve.
Another way.
Slaked lime .3 lbs.
White lime, in powder 2 „
Litharge i lb.
Mix by sifting, bottle, and well cork.
Directions to be sold with the above : —
Mix the powder with enough water to form a thick creamy fluid ; with
the aid of a small brush, completely cover the hair to be dyed with this
mixture ; to die a light brown, allow it to remain on the hair four hours ;
dark brown, eight hours ; black, twelve hours. As the dye does not act
unless it is moist, it is necessary to keep it so by wearing an oiled silk,
india-rubber, or other waterproof cap.
After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the
head with plain water ; when dry, the hair must be oiled.
SIMPLE SILVER DYE.
Nitrate of silver I oz-
Rose-water i pint
Before using this dye, it is necessary to free the hair from
grease by washing it with soda or pearl-ash and water. The
hair must be quite dry prior to applying the dye, which is
best laid on with an old tooth-brush. This dye does not
' strike ' for several hours. It need scarcely be observed that
its effects are more rapidly produced by exposing the hair to
sunshine and air, and by washing the hair previously with
sulphur soap.
4IO THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
HAIR-DYE, WITH MORDANT.
Brown.
Nitrate of silver i oz. blue bottles
Rose-water. 8 „ „
The Mordant. — Sulphuret of potassium . . i oz. white bottles
Water 6 „ „
Black.
Nitrate of silver i oz. blue bottles
Water 6 „ „
The Mordant. — Sulphuret of potassium . . i oz. white bottles
Water 6 „ „
The mordant is to be applied to the hair first : when this"
is dry, then the silver solution.
Great care must be taken that the sulphuret is fresh made,
or, at least, well preserved in closed bottles, otherwise, instead
of the mordant making the hair black, it will impart a yellow
hue. When the mordant is good it has a very disagreeable
odour; and although this is the quickest and best dye, its
unpleasant smell has given rise to the
INODOROUS DYE.
Blue Bottles. — Dissolve the nitrate of silver in the water as in the
above ; then add liquid ammonia by degrees until the mixture becomes
cloudy from the precipitate of the oxide of silver; continue to add
ammonia in small portions until the fluid again becomes feright from the
oxide of silver being re-dissolved.
White Bottles. — Pour half a pint of boiling rose-water upon three
ounces of powdered gall nuts ; when cold, strain and bottle. This forms
the mordant, and is used in the same way as the first-named dye, like the
sulphuret mordant. It is not so good a dye as the previous one.
MANGANESE BROWN HAIR-DYE.
Under the name of ' Baffine,' a very excellent brown hair-
dye has been introduced by Mr. Condy, of Battersea. It
PENCIL WATER, AND WALNUT WATER. 411
consists of saturated solution of permanganate of potass.
This salt, like nitrate of silver, undergoes decomposition when
in contact with organic substances. Hair and skin are stained
by it of a good chestnut hue. For the purpose of dyeing the
hair it is therefore necessary to take the usual precaution not
to wet the partings of the hair with the manganese fluid.
FRENCH BROWN DYE.
Blue Bottles. — Saturated solution of sulphate of copper ; to this add
ammonia enough to precipitate the oxide of copper and redissolve it (as
with the silver in the above), producing the azure Hquid.
White Bottles. — Mordant. — Saturated solution of prussiate of potass.
Artificial hair, for the manufacture of perukes, is dyed in
the same manner as wool.
There are in the market several other hair-dyes, but all
of them are but modifications of the above, possessing no
marked advantage.
PENCIL WATER, AND WALNUT WATER.
Under the above names a weak hair-dye is made which
consists of an alkaline solution of lead, or rather plumbate
of potash : it is slow in its action, but it does not blacken
the skin — no inconsiderable advantage. It may be thus
prepared :—
Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassse as much freshly precipitated
oxide of lead as it will take up, and dilute the resulting clear solution with
three ounces of distilled water. Care must be taken not to wet the skin
unnecessarily with it.
Almost all the liquids employed in France for dyeing the
hair have for their basis the salts of silver, copper, or lead.
The mordants used for fixing the colour, or rather for pro-
ducing it, are sometimes solutions of potassium or sodium
sulphides, and sometimes solutions of tannin, gallic acid, or
412 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
pyrogallic acid. But some traders go farther still. As the
salts of silver blacken the sl<in, they sell, to remove the. spots,
a saturated solution of Potassium Cyanide,
DEPILATORY.
The subject of depilation or removal of the hair is fre-
quently treated by ancient authors.
QUICK DEPILATORY OR RUSMA (for removing Hair).
The word depilatory is derived from the Latin /27«j, the
hair. As the ladies of this country consider the growth of
hair- upon the upper lip, upon the arms, and on the back of
the neck to be detrimental to beauty, those who are troubled
with such physical indications of good health and vital
stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory for
removing it.
This or analogous preparations were introduced into this
country from the East, rusma having been in use in the harems
of Asia for many ages.
Best lime slacked 3 lbs.
Orpiment, in powder ^ lb.
Mix the material by means of a drum sieve ; preserve the same for
sale in well corked or stoppered bottles.
Directimts to be sold with the above : —
Mix the depilatory powder with enough water to render it of a creamy
consistence ; lay it upon the hair for about five minutes, or until its caustic
action upon the skin renders it necessary to be removed ; a similar pro-
cess to shaving is then to be gone through, but instead of using a razor,
operate with an ivory or bone paper-knife ; then wash the part with
plenty of water, and apply a little cold cream.
Dr. Redwood says that the best and safest depilatory
consists of a strong solution of barium sulphide made into a
DEPILA TORIES. 413
J)aste with thick starch : it must be applied immediately it is
made, as it rapidly spoils.
The precise time to leave depilatory upon the part to be
depilated cannot be given, because there is a physical differ-
ence in the nature of hair. ' Raven tresses ' require more
time than ' flaxen locks ; ' the sensitiveness of the skin has
also to be considered. A small feather is a very good test
for its action.
A few readers will, perhaps, be disappointed in finding
that I have only given one formula for depilatory. The
receipts might easily have been increased in number, but not
in quality. The use of arsenical compounds is objectionable,
but it undoubtedly increases the depilating action of the
compounds. A few compilers of ' Receipt Books,' and others,
add to the lime ' charcoal powder,' ' carbonate of potass,'
' starch,' &c. ; but what action have these materials, chemically,
upon hair } The simplest depilatory is moistened quicklime,
but it is less energetic than the mixture recommended above ;
it answers very well for tanners and fellmongers, with whom
time is no object.
boudet's depilatory.
Powdered quicklime . . • 10 grammes
Sulphydrate of soda 3 ;>
Starch 10 »
This powder is first diluted in a little water and then
applied. It acts in a few minutes (20 to 30).
bcettger's depilatorv.
Pass a current of hydrosulphuric acid into very thick whitewash till it
is saturated. Take of this sulphydrate of lime well drained, 20 grammes ;
glycerole of starch and starch,each logrammes ; essence of citron or other
essence, 10 drops. Apply the paste, and wash after 20 to 30 mmutes.
414 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
HERNANDIA DEPILATORY.
Burnett says that the juice of the leaves of the Hernandia
Sonora is found to be an advantageous and effectual depila-
tory, as it destroys the hair wherever it is employed, without
pain to the skin.
Knowing from experience how much many of my country-
women would value such an article, it is my intention at an
early period to test the value of this assertion, and if it be
possessed of the properties asserted, Hernandia depilatory
shall shortly be at their command.
The Hernandia Sonora, family of the lauraceae, grows in
the Antilles. It takes its name from the noise the wind
makes in passing over its stiff calices, with their tough and
close sections.
GOLDEN HAIR POWDER.
Poudre d'or was first worn by the Empress Eugenie, at
the Festival of Boeuf Gras, i860. Since then this pretty con-
ceit, as the wave of fashion always does, has extended from
its centre to the circle of all who pretend to move within its
sphere.
The best quality consists of crushed gold leaf, the common
kind, or 'speckles,' is nothing more than a coarse bronze
powder.
SNOW POWDER — DIAMOND DUST.
This consists of very thin glass powdered, sometimes
called Frost ; it is a necessary requisite for ladies going to a
fancy ball, dressed as Snow or Frost.
ABSORBENT POWDERS AND ROUGES. 415
SECTION XVI.
ABSORBENT POWDERS AND ROUGES.
A LADY'S toilet-table is incomplete without a box of
some absorbent powder ; indeed, from our earliest
infancy, powder is used for drying the skin with the greatest
benefit : no wonder that its use is continued in advanced years,
if, by slight modifications in its composition, it can be em-
ployed not only as an absorbent, but as a means of ' personal
adornment.' We are quite within limits in stating that many
tons weight of such powders are used in this country annually.
They are principally composed of various starches, prepared
from wheat, potatoes, and various nuts, mixed more or less
with powdered talc, magnesia, steatite (soap-stone), French
chalk, oxide of bismuth, and oxide of zinc, &c. These
powders are best applied to the face with a hare's foot, which
is prepared and fitted with handles for that purpose. When,
however, the powder is applied to the skin generally, as for
the purpose of drying it after washing, what is termed a ' puff,'
of swan's down, is now mostly employed. An authority has
informed me that there are about 5,000 swans' skins imported
into England annually — ^passing through the Custom-house ;
however, there is good reason to suppose that vast numbers
also find their way here, ' dispensing with the tediousness of
customs regulations altogether ; ' now presuming this number
to be 2,000, we should have an actual importation of 7,000
swans' skins. Each skin will make on an average 60 pufife,
4i6 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
equal to a total produce of 420,000 per annum. The name
pufif applied to these articles is derived from the ' pufif box,'
a ' household appendage ' of every home in the reign of the
Georges, at which time everybody wore powder. The puff
box of that period was constructed like a flower dredger ; but
the sides of it were collapsible leather ; in the interior was a
spring and the powder. It was used like a pair of bellows.
Thus our grandfathers powder-puffed themselves before they
entered society ! The best swans' skins for puffs come from
Holland, and are very thick in the down. There are some
imported from Canada, and North America, but, like our
English swans, they are thinner in the down than the Dutch
swan. The most popular powder is what is termed
VIOLET POWDER.
Wheat starch . 12 lbs.
Orris-root powder . .... 2 „
Otto of lemon ^ oz.
„ bergamot • i „
„ cloves 2 drachms
PISTACHIO-NUT TOILET-POWDER.
Starch of pistachio nuts 7 lbs.
French chalk, in fine powder 7 ,,
Otto of rose and lavender . . each i drachm
Well sifted together through a fine sieve.
Starch can be procured from an infinite variety of sources ;
and according to the material it is procured from, so is the
size of the grain. Wheat starch comparatively has a very
coarse grain : hence the ordinary powder is too coarse for the
complexion, but nut starch (Brazil, Barcelona, almond, pista-
chio, or any other) yields a fine grain, smooth and soft, very
suitable for complexion powders.
FRENCH BLANC. 417
ROSE FACE POWDER.
Rice starch 7 lbs.
Rose pink J drachm
Otto of rose 2 drachms
„ santal 2 „
PLAIN OR UNSCENTED HAIR POWDER
Is pure wheat starch.
FACE POWDER.
Starch i lb.
Oxide of bismuth 4 oz.
PERLE POWDER.
French chalk i lb.
Oxide of bismuth i oz.
Oxide of zinc i „
FRENCH BLANC
is levigated talc passed through a silk sieve.
This is a very good face powder, particularly as it
does not discolour from emanation of the skin or impure
atmosphere.
As to painting the face, it appears to be practised, more
or less, by both male and female, from the earliest period to
the present time. 'And when Jehu was come to Jezreel,
Jezebel heard of it ; and she painted her face, and tired her
head, and looked out at a window' (2 Kings ix. 30). Gibbon,'
describing the Roman Emperor Elagabalus, says, that at his
first entry into the eternal city, his eyebrows were tinged
with black, and his cheeks painted with an artificial red and
' GSbhon's, Decline and Fall of the Soman Empire, vol. i., ch. vi. p. 233.
E E
4i8 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
white. Almost the first present that the Empress made to
Catherine, newly arrived at court, and scarcely fifteen years
old, was a rouge-pot.' The late Duke of Brunswick whom it
will be remembered willed a large sum of money and treasure to
the Town Council of Geneva, never appeared in public until
' got up ' with a fair quantity of rouge, and which was more
particularly noticed, as his Grace invariably painted round his
eyes so much that he appeared just to have escaped after a pugi-
listic encounter. His Grace was rather eccentric, to be sure, as it
has been said that he went to France in a balloon, for fear of
the mal de mer.
LIQUID BLANC DE PERLE (for theatrical use).
The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers is
absolutely necessary ; great exertion produces a florid com-
plexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and
requires a cosmetic to subdue it. The late Madame Vestris,
during her stage career, had probably consumed more than half
a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus : —
Rose or orange-flower water i pint
Oxide of bismuth 4 oz.
Mixed by long trituration.
CALCINED TALC
is also extensively used as a toilet powder, and is sold
under various names ; it is not so unctuous as the ordinary
kind.
ROUGE AND RED PAINTS.
These preparations are in demand, not only for theatrical
use, but by private individuals. Various shades of colour are
' MSmoires de V ImpSratrice Catherine II. par M. A. Herzen.
MAISJUFACTURE OF CARMINE. 419
made to suit the complexions of the blonde and brunette.
One of the best kinds is what is termed
Bloom, of Roses.
Strong liquid ammonia J oz.
Finest carmine a „
Rose-water i pint
Esprit de rose, triple . . . . . ^ oz.
This preparation, almost a necessary appendage to the
toilet of every lady in France and Germany, is used to impart
to the lips that cherry-like hue so much admired. It is also
used to give the pale and wan cheek a roseate bloom. In
many respects it is superior to rouge, which is now almost as
prevalent in this country as in the days of George the Third,
when spots and rouge were fit subjects for Swift's sarcasm.
Place the carmine in a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia ; allow
them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days ; then
add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet
situation for a week ; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will
subside ; the supernatant ' Bloom of Roses ' is then to be bottled for sale.
If the carmine was perfectly pure, there would be no precipitate ; nearly
all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated,
its enormous price being a premium for its adulteration.
Carmine cannot be manufactured profitably on a small
scale for commercial purposes ; four or five manufacturers
supply the whole of Europe. M. Titard, Rue Grenier St.
Lazare, Paris, produces, without doubt, the finest article ;
singularly enough, however, the principal operative in the
establishment is an old Englishman.
The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on
the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are
engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being
costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made. — Dr.
Ure.
A manufacturer of carmine, who was aware of the superiority of the
French colour, went to Lyons for the purpose of improving his process,
E E 2
420 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
and bargained with the most celebrated manufacturer in that city for the
acquisition of his secret, for which he was to pay one thousand pounds.
He was shown all the process, and saw a beautiful colour produced ; but
he found not the least difference in the French mode of fabrication and
that which had been constantly adopted by himself He appealed to his
instructor, and insisted that he must have concealed something. The
man assured him that he had not, and invited him to see the process a
second time. He minutely examined the water and the materials, which
were in every respect similar to his own, and then, very much surprised,
said, ' I have lost my labour and my money, for the air of England does
not permit us to niake good carmine. ' ' Stay,' said the Frenchman ;
' don't deceive yourself. What kind of weather is it now V 'A bright,
sunny day,' replied the Enghshman. ' And such are the days,' said the
Frenchman, ' on which I make my colour. Were I to attempt to manu-
facture it on a dark or cloudy day, my results would be the same as yours.
Let me advise you, my friend, always to make carmine on bright, sunny
days.' ' I will,' rejoined the Englishman ; 'but I fear I shall make very
httle in London ! '—Sir H. Daw.'
In the EncyclopMie Roret will be found no less than a dozen
recipes for preparing carmine; the number of formulae will
convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet
withheld.
Analysis has taught us its exact composition ; but a certain
dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indis-
pensable to complete success.
Most of the recipes given by Dr. Ure, and others, are from
this source ; but, as they possess no practical value, we refrain
from reprinting them.
Mr. B. Wood patented the following method of making
carmine, which may be very useful to some of our readers who
have to pay a much higher price for this material than it
would cost themselves to make it. Take 9 ounces of the
' [The writer of this little volume was first inspired in his chemical studies by
reading the works of Sir H. Davy. When quite a boy he travelled on foot, with
knapsack on back, from London to Penzance in Cornwall to see Davy's birthplace.
Again he went to Geneva to see his tomb near to that of John Calvin, in the
Cemetry of Plane Palais. The Davy Centenary Festival took place at Penzance
on the 13th and 14th February, 1879.]
TOILET ROUGES. 421
carbonate of soda and dissolve it in 27 quarts of rain watei-, to
which are added 8 ounces of citric acid. When brought to the
boiling point, i^ lb. of the best cochineal, ground fine, are
added, and then boiled for i^ hour. The liquor is then
strained or filtered and set by to cool. The clear liquor is
then boiled again, with 9^ ounces of alum, for about ten
minutes, and is again drawn off and allowed to cool and
settle for two or three days. The supernatant liquor is then
drawn off, and the sediment which is fallen to the bottom is
filtered and washed with clean, cold soft water, and is finally
dried by evaporating all the moisture. The result is fine
carmine, which can be made into the finest red ink by dissol-
ving it in a caustic solution of ammonia, adding a little dis-
solved gum arabic.
By the old plan of making carmine, no citric ^cid was
used ; the cochineal was simply boiled in soft rain water for
two hours, containing a minute quantity of carbonate of soda,
then allowed to settle, and treated by remainder of the process
as described above. An improvement in the brilliancy of the
colour is obtained by adding about one-ninth part of the
crystals of a salt of tin to the alum, using for this purpose a
ninth part less of alum than the amount given above.
TOILET ROUGES
are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with
talc powder, in different proportions ; say one drachm of car-
mine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc,
and so on. These rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake
on china puts ; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute
portion of solution of gum tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a
great variety of rouges. In some instances the colouring
matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried
very gradually : it then assumes a beautiful green tint. This
422 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
curious optical effect is also observed in 'pink saucers.' What
is known as Chinese book-rouge is evidently made in the same
way, and has been imported into this country for many years.
When the bronze-green cards are moistened with a piece
of damp cotton-wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the
colour assumes a beautiful rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge,
called ' theatre rouge,' are made from the Brazil-wood lake ;
another kind is derived from the safflower {Carthamus
tinctorius) ; from this plant also are made
PINK SAUCERS.
The safflower is washed in water until the yellow colouring
matter is removed ; the carthamine, or colour principle, is
then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda ;
the colouring is then precipitated into the saucers by the
addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.
Cotton-wool and crape, being coloured in the same way,
are used for the same purpose, the former being sold as
Spanish wool, the latter as Cr^pon rouge.
A more beautiful and redder carthamine is obtainable by
precipitation of the alkaline solution of the colouring matter
with citric acid, instead of sulphuric acid. The rouge of the
theatres is almost alwa)^ made with carthamine.
SYMPATHETIC BLUSH OF SCHNOUDA.
Under the euphonious name of Schnoiida an article for
colouring the cheeks has been recently introduced into per-
fumery. I prefer to call it Sympathetic Blush, on account of
its peculiar qualities.
In a chemical sense it possesses very great interest,
and illustrates in one way how science is applied to the arts.
The colouring principle of this Blush is known to chemical
POWDER FOR THE NAILS. 423
philosophers under the name of Alloxan, and was discovered
by Liebig.
Alloxan is white, and is soluble in water ; being mixed
up with a greasy body after the manner of cold cream, a
white cream results.
On exposure to the air by rubbing it upon the cheek, lips,
or other ' situation,' the Alloxan gradually turns to deep rose-
colour from the oxydising influence of the atmosphere. Used
judiciously, it creates the most perfect delusion perpetrated by
the toilet of fashion.
Alloxan was discovered by Liebig and Woehler. It
crystallises in rhomboidal octahedrons.
BLUE FOR VEINS.
The arts of the toilet are carried to such desires that,
unless the veins could at times be indicated by a faint blue
vermicular line, there would still be a want for the perfumers
to supply.
Blue wherewith to imitate the veins is made with exceed-
ingly fine levigated French chalk, sifted through a silk sieve,
tinted to the proper shade with Prussian blue, then made into
a paste with very thin gum-water ; when dry it is put up
into pots into the same way as rouge.
After the complexion has been duly whitened with blanc,
the veins are indicated with a little of the colouring applied
with a pencil made of kid-leather, the inside of the skin being
made the outside of the pencil.
Artistically used, the effect is pleasing and natural,
NAIL POWDER.
With moderate attention the finger-nails become greatly
ornamental ; but without it they are worse than a disfigure-
424 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
ment ; in fact, the state of the finger-nails may be said to
indicate either refinement or its absence. The nails should
be cut at least once a fortnight, and a sharp penknife pro-
duces a smoother edge than scissors do. Some persons cannot
cut the nails of the right hand, but this little difficulty is got
over with a very little practice, and the left hand adapts itself
readily where its services can be beneficially employed.
Clean nails are so essential, that in England we never admit
that a hand is clean, however well washed, unless the nails
are clean also. Agnails are prevented by releasing the quick
from its attachment to the nail about once a week. Some
persons push the quick down with the towel every time they
wash their hands ; but small ivory ' nail-cleaners,' sold by
perfumers, are greatly preferred. ' Biting the nails ' is an
offence against good manners, and richly deserves the punish-
ment that it eventually brings with it, in the disfigurement it
perpetuates. A pretty hand is greatly improved by careful
attention to the nails, and even a hand which would otherwise
be somewhat of a disfigurement to the person, is rendered
pleasing to the eye, if proper attention be given to the nails.
The best nail powder consists of pure oxide of tin perfumed
with otto of lavender and tinted with carmine ; it is sold in
little wooden boxes of about one ounce each. It is applied
either by rubbing it on the nail with the finger, or with a
nail polisher covered with leather. As oxide of tin is
employed for polishing tortoiseshell, we can easily understand
how useful it is for horn and nails.
It is stannic acid or binoxide of tin that is used.
TOOTH-POWDERS AND MOUTH-WASHES. 425
SECTION XVII.
TOOTH-POWDERS AND MOUTH-WASHES.
THE teeth should be fairly used, not made to perform the
duties of crackers for nuts, nor to rival scissors in cut-
ting thread ; for, rest assured, the teeth so unwittingly injured
will always be the first to part company from their fellows.
Cleanliness is absolutely essential for the preservation of the
teeth, and they should be well brushed at least morning and
evening, that any feculence which may be attached to them,
either during sleep from the stomach, or by day from meals,
may not be allowed permanently to adhere, causing, firstly,
discoloration, then tartar, and subsequently undermining
the health of one or more, as from their position they may be
more or less liable to corrosion. In order that the teeth
should look natural — that is, retain their natural colour — a
dentifrice free from the smallest particle of acid should be
used in the morning, and the mouth rinsed with tepid
water, for extremes of heat and cold are most highly preju-
dicial both to their colour and durability. The persons who
habituate themselves to hot soup, tea, or other drinks, will be
sure to suffer in their teeth. Brushes for the teeth should be
of medium substance of bristle, and those made oh what is
called the penetrating principle are best. Children at an
early age should be instructed in the use of the tooth-brush,
and taught the value and importance of the teeth, in order to
426 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
inculcate habits of cleanliness and a due appreciation of the
ornaments of the mouth. A brush properly selected, not too
hard, may be used by children of five years of age every
morning ; and by being part and parcel of the general ablution,
and thus directing habitual attention to the teeth, a useful
and cleanly habit will be engendered which will probably
ensure for them proper care through life.
The same kind of brush does not suit every one. Persons
whose gums are congested and sensitive should choose soft
brushes ; and in case of ulceration, the sponge brush will like-
wise be the best ; for those whose gums have lost their colour
should prefer a rather rough brush to stimulate vital action.
Moreover it will always be prudent and advisible to consult
a dentist as to the kind of brush best in any particular case.
TOOTH-POWDERS,
regarded as a means merely of cleansing the teeth, are
most commonly placed among cosmetics ; but this should
not be, as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and
regular condition of the dental machinery, and so aid in per-
fecting as much as possible the act of mastication. In this
manner they may be considered as most useful, although,
it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful and
prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of
early loss of the teeth may be prevented ; these are, the de-
position of tartar, the swelling of the gums, and an undue
acidity of the saliva. The effect resulting from accumulation
of the tartar is well known to most persons, and it has been
distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the gums
will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets ; and
the action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be injuri*
ous, if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a
tooth-powder sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable
TOOTH-POWDERS. ifl-j
degree of friction upon the teeth, without at the same time
injuring the enamel of the teeth, will, in most cases, almost
always prevent the tartar accumulating in such a degree
as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth ; and a flaccid,
spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or
overcome by adding to such a tooth-powder some tonic and
astringent ingredient. A tooth-powder containing charcoal
and cinchona bark will accomplish these results in most cases,
and therefore dentists generally recommend such. Still,
there are objections as to the use of charcoal ; it is too hard
and resisting, its colour is objectionable, and it is perfectly
insoluble by the saliva ; it is apt to become lodged between
the teeth, and there to collect decomposing animal and
vegetable matter around such particles as may be fixed in
this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, and has
a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends
the following formula : —
Mialhe's Tooth-Powder.
Sugar of milk, one thousand parts ; lake, ten parts ; pure tannin,
fifteen parts ; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange-flowers, so much
as to impart an agreeable flavour to the composition.'
His directions for the preparations of this tooth-powder
are, to rub well the lake with the tannin, and gradually add
the sugar of milk, previously powdered and sifted ; and
lastly, the essential oils are to be carefully mixed with the
powdered substances. Experience has convinced him of the
efficacy of this tooth-powder, the habitual employment of
which will suffice to preserve the gums and teeth in a healthy
state. This formula of Mialhe has been recommended
especially when the teeth have been blackened by the chaly-
beates. It would, however, be useful in other cases.
For those who are troubled with excessive relaxation
' Chimie appliqtcie h la physiologic et a la thirapeutique, p. 637. Paris, 1856.
428 THE. ART OF PERFUMERY.
and sponginess of the gums, he recommends the following
astringent preparation : —
Mialh^s DeiUifrice.
Alcohol, one thousand parts ; genuine kino, one hundred parts ; rha-
tany root, one hundred parts ; tincture of balsam of tola, two parts ; tinc-
ture of gum benzoin, two parts ; essential oil of canella, two parts ;
essential oil of mint, two parts ; essential oil of aniseed, one part.
The kino and the rhatany root are to be macerated in the alcohol for
Seven or eight days ; and after filtration, the other articles are to be
added. '
A teaspoonful of this preparation mixed in half a goblet
of water should be used to rinse the mouth after the use of
the tooth-powder. The word dentifrice is derived from dens,
frico — a tooth, I rub.
Camphorated Chalk.
Precipitated chalk i lb.
Powdered orris-root | ,,
„ camphor i „
Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing in a mortar with a little
spirit, then sift the whole well together.
On account of the volatility of camphor, the powder
should always be sold in bottles, or at least in boxes lined
with tinfoil.
Quinine Tooth-Powder.
Precipitated chalk i lb.
Starch powder i ^^
0"is >. U,
Sulphate of quinine . . . . . i drachm
After sifting, it is ready for sale.
' Chimis appliqtiie h la physiologic et ala thirapeutique, p. 638. Paris, 1856.
TOOTH-POWDERS. 42^
Prepared Charcoal.
Fresh made charcoal, in fine powder . . .7 lbs.
Prepared chalk i lb.
Orris-root i „
Catechu | „
Cassia bark \ „
Myrrh ... \ „
Charcoal of white wood is generally preferred, and par
ticularly that of poplar or willow.
Peruvian Bark Powder.
Peruvian bark, in powder \Vo.
Bole ammoniac i „
Orris powder i „
Cassia bark ^ „
Powdered myrrh ^ „
Precipitated chalk \ „
Otto of cloves \oz.
Hommopathic Chalk.
Precipitated chalk i lb.
Powdered orris' i oz.
„ starch i „
Cuttle-fish Powder.
Powdered cuttle-fish ^ lb.
Precipitated chalk i «
Powdered orris k n
Otto of lemons i oz.
„ neroli \ drachm
Borax and Myrrh Tooth-Powder.
Precipitated chalk i lb.
Borax powder \ »
Myrrh „ i «
Orris „ in
430
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Farina Piesse's Powder.
Burnt Horn 2 lbs.
Orris-root 2 „
Carmine i drachm
Very fine powdered sugar | lb.
Otto of neroli . . ^ drachm
„ lemons j oz.
„ bergamot \ „
„ orange-peel i „
„ rosemary i drachm
Rose Tooth-Powder.
Precipitated chalk ....
. I lb.
Orris
• • k ,,
Rose pink
. 2 drachms
Otto of rose
. I drachm
„ santal
• • \ „
All these powders are to be well sifted together ; they are
then ready for sale.
Opiate Tooth-paste.
Honey | lb.
Chalk ^ „
0"^"^ J „
Carmme 2 drachms
Otto of cloves . . . .\
„ nutmeg . . . I of each . . J drachm
„ rose . . . .1
Simple syrup enough to form a paste
All powders employed unmixed for cleaning the teeth,
and those which form ingredients in opiates, ought to be
ground with the utmost carefulness.
We may remark that all English dentifrices are neutral or
alkaline ; and they are certainly to be preferred to the French
powders, which usually owe their acidity to allum or cream of
tartar. Such powders not only affect and destroy the enamel,
MOUTH-WASHES. 431
but they have the serious disadvantage of lodging in the
cavities of the gums and frequently give rise to slight ulcer-
ation.
MOUTH-WASHES.
Violet Mouth-wash.
Tincture of orris J pint
Esprit de rose \ „
Spirit \ „
Otto of almonds 5 drops
This is a very nice preparation, and gives great satisfac-
tion.
Eau Botot.
Tincture of cedar wood i pint
,, myrrh \ „
„ rhatany a „
Otto of peppermint 15 drops
„ roses 10 1)
Botanic Styptic.
Rectified spirit i quart
Rhatany-root . . . ■\
Gum myrrh . . . . ^ of each . . 2 oz.
Whole cloves . . . . j
Macerate for fourteen days, and strain.
All these tinctures should be made with grape spirit, or at
least wish pale unsweetened brandy.
Tincture of Myrrh and Borax.
Spirits of wine i quart
Borax
Honey . . . ■
Gum myrrh I «
Red Sanders wood i »
Rub the honey and borax well together in a mortar, then gradually
' [ of each . . i oz.
432 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
add the spirit — which should not be stronger than -920, i.e. proof spirit,
— the myrrh, and sanders wood, and macerate for fourteen days.
It exalts the flavour and expense, but it yet improves the
quality of the result to employ halt Cologne or Hungary
water, in place of all spirits of wine.
Tincture of Myrrh with Eau de Cologne.
Eau de Cologne ... . . . i quart
Gum myrrh 5 oz.
Macerate for fourteen days, and filter.
Catnphorated Eau de Cologne.
Eau de Cologne i quart
Camphor .... . . 5 oz.
Turkish Pastil Lozenges.
For the use of smokers, or to prevent the taste of medicine.
These lozenges are made thus : —
Fine sugar
Citric acid
Otto of roses .
Grain musk
Otto of vitivert
4 lbs.
4 drachms
5 drops
4 grains
^ drachm
Gum tragacanth dissolved in water, enough to form the whole into a
paste, tinted with liquid lake.
Aromatic Cashoo (Bologna) for Smokers.
Extract of liquorice by infusion . . . 100 grammes
Water 100 „
Dissolve in water bath, and add 30 grammes of powdered cashoo, and
30 grammes of powered gum. Evaporate tSU it has the consistence of an
extract and incorporate 2 grammes of each of the following substances, finely
powered— mastic, cascarella, charcoal, orris. Well mix, take off the fire and
add, 2 grammes of essence of English mint, 5 drops of tincture of musk, and
AROMATIC CASHOO. 433
5 drops of tincture of amber. Pour upon an oiled marble surface, and
spread out with a roller into plates.
When the mass is cooled, rub with unsized paper, in order completely
to remove the oil from both surfaces ; then moisten slightly with water,
and place over each a leaf of silver. When dried, cut into very narrow
strips, then into small squares or lozenges.
F F
434 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION XVIII.
HAIR-IVASHES.
AS a general rule, society does not use enough pomades
and hair oils ; hence the number of rough-looking heads
of hair that are to be seen when men are assembled together
with their 'hats off,' as in a court of justice and similar places
of public resort. In boarding-schools, in vain are soap and
water employed to destroy an odious parasite, whoi5e name
need not be mentioned ; but which is never seen or heard of
where the toilet is liberally supplied with good pomade or oil.
On the other hand, there are persons whose hair is so naturally
moist and greasy that no kind of unguent is required. Such
hair is very liable to come off, to be thin, lank, and pliable ;
whereas good hair should always have a certain amount of
' woolliness ' in it, to give that appearance of life and vigour so
becoming in curly locks, and the excess of which is a negro
head. Thin and naturally greasy hair requires a wash to
keep it in nice order : and if the hair is falling off, either
from sickness or natural decay, the wash should be astringent
and stimulant.
Rosemary Water,
Rosemary, free from stalk lo lbs.
Water 12 gallons
Draw off by distillation ten gallons for use in perfumery
manufacture.
HAIR-WASHES.
435
Rosemary Hair-wash.
Rosemary water i gallon
Rectified spirit ^ pint
Pearl-ash .... . . . i oz.
Tinted with brown colouring.
Bay Rum.
This is a very good hair-wash. It was first introduced in
New York by those go-a-head scissors, that ' abbreviate ' the
' crown of glory.'
Tincture of bay leaves
Otto of bay
Bicarbonate of ammonia
Biborate of soda (borax) .
Rose-water
Mix and filter.
5 oz.
I drachm
I oz.
I »
I quart
Athenian Water.
Rose-water . i gallon
Alcohol . . I pint
Sassafras wood . . . . . . . ^ lb.
Pearl-ash ... . . . . i oz.
Boil the wood in the rose-water in a glass vessel ; then, when cold,
add the pearl-ash and spirit.
Instead of the pearl-ash I should prefer the Panama wood,
which would make a better head of hair.
Rose-water
Rectified spirit
Extrait de fleur d'orange
„ jasmin .
„ acacia .
„ rose
„ tubereuse
Extract of vanilla .
Vegetable or Botanic Extract.
\ of each
of each
3 quarts
ipint
This is a very beautifully scented hair-wash,
a price commensurate with its cost.
It retails at
436 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary.
Rosemary water ....... 2 quarts
Esprit de rose \ pint
Rectified spirit 'i „
Extract of vanilla . . . . . i quart
Magnesia, to clear it 2 oz.
Filter through paper.
Glycerine and Caiitharides Lotion. {For the Hair, if falling o^.)
Mr. Startin has published the following-, which is stated to
be of great service.
Rosemary water . . . . . i gallon
Spirits of sal volatile . . . . i oz.
Tincture of cantharides . • 2 „
Glycerine 4 „
To be used with a sponge or soft hair-brush twice a day.
Lotion for the Hair, as recommended by Dr. Locock.
Liquor of ammonia
Oil of sweet almonds
Spirits of rosemary .
Otto of mace .
Rose-water
1°'
each . . 2 drachms
. I oz.
J drachm
. 2^ oz.
First, mix the almond oil with the ammonia ; then, having added the
otto of mace (essential oil of mace) to the rosemary, shake these up with
the oil and ammonia ; finally, add the rose-water by degrees.
It is used as a lotion, and applied once a day at the toilet
hour. This compound is a stimulant, and was made at the
suggestion of her Majesty's physician for promoting the growth
of the hair and preventing its falling off.
Saponaceous Wash, or Egg Jtilep.
Rectified spirit
Rose-water ....
Extract of rondeletia
Transparent soap .
Hay saffron
. I pmt
I gallon
. ^ pint
• . . . Joz.
. i drachm
BANDOLINES. s^yj
Shave up the soap very fine ; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the
rose-water ; when dissolved, add the remainder of the water, then the
spirit, finally the rondeletia, which is used by way of perfume. After
standing for two or three days, it is fit for bottling.
By transmitted light, it is transparent ; but by reflected
light the liquid has a pearly and singularly wavy appearance
when shaken.
In preparations or washes for the hair, castor-oil is now
frequently employed. It produces an unequalled brilliancy ;
but it is necessary to select for the purpose a freshly made oil,
otherwise its odour is disagreeable, and difficult to disguise,
especially on the head where it is easily heated. Castor-
oil, it should be remembered, is soluble in spirit : the article
known as
Etcchrysma.
Is made thus —
Any scented spirit ... . . i pint
Castor-oil . . . . 2 oz.
BANDOLINES.
Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the
hair in any particular form. Some persons use for that
purpose a hard pomatum containing wax, made up into
rolls, called thence Baton fixateur. The little ' feathers ' of
hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by the aid of
these batons made to lie down smooth.
The liquid bandolines are principally of a gummy nature,
being made either with Iceland moss, or linseed and water
variously perfumed, also by boiling quinceseed with water.
Perfumers, however, chiefly make bandoline from gum traga-
canth, which exudes from a shrub of that name which grows
plentifully in Greece and Turkey.
438 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Rose Bandolines.
Gum tragacanth . . . . 6 oz.
Rose-water . . ... . i gallon
Otto of roses . . ^ oz.
Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a
thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After
about forty-eight hours' maceration, it is then to be squeezed through a
coarse linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, then passed
through the cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of consistency ;
when this is the case, the otto of roses is to be thoroughly incorporated.
The cheap bandoline is made without the otto ; for
coloured bandoline, it is to be tinted with ammoniacal
solution of carmine, i.e. Bloom of Roses ; or with roseline for
rose tint, and aniline for violet tint.
Almond Bandoline
is made precisely as the above, scenting with a quarter of an
ounce of otto of almonds in place of the roses.
crSme de mauve, or hair gloss.
This preparation serves the double purpose of a dressing
for the hair and as a fixateur. It is especially made for
giving gloss and brilliancy to the hair, when an engagement
requires that the tresses and curls should appear particularly
elegant, as at a ball, soiree, or the opera, and is made
thus : —
Pure glycerine 4 lbs.
Spirit of jasmine i pint
Aniline 5 drops
In concluding this section, we now terminate our remarks
on the manufacture of odorous substances, and their applica-
tion to the toilet of fashion and beauty.
To be 'in good odour' denotes moral purity. To employ
ODOROUS SUBSTANCES. 439
. ^
a special odour, in its material sense, according to circum-
stances — age, joy, sorrow — is the suggestion of the late Dr.
Andrew Wynter of Chiswick. ' Why,' says he, ' should we
not know our fair friends by the delicate odours with which
they are surrounded, as we know them afar off by the charm
of voice ? There is an appropriate odour, to our minds, to
each particular character. The spirituelle should affect
jasmine ; the brilliant and witty, magnolia ; the robust, the
more musky odours ; and young girls just blooming into
womanhood, the rose. The citron-like perfumes are more
fitted for the melancholy temperature, and there is a sad minor
note in heliotrope that the young widow should affect.'
The great Creator, in addition to utility, has added beauty
and variety in all His works. Flowers might have been of
one colour and the same odour, or they might have been
colourless or inodorous.
Yet what exquisite beauty and diversity of perfume is
there in plants and flowers ! The love of this beauty and
perfume is universal. Man is adapted to appreciate the.gift^
which the beneficent Creator has spread before him in such
rich variety ; the gratification arising from this enjoyment, as
it is among the most innocent and purest, so it is the most
pleasing^ and permanent that he enjoys.
The great Teacher, when speaking of the lilies, says that
' Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these ; '
and when setting forth his own excellences and glory, says, ' I
am the Rose of Sharon.'
Nor the sweet smell
Of different flowers in odour and in hue
Can make me any longer story tell.
Shakespeare.
440 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SECTION XIX.
OF THE COLOURS USED BY PERFUMERS.
THE various toilet requisites manufactured by the per-
fumer must not only smell nicely, produce a pleasing
sensation to touch, but they must also gratify the eye, — in
fact, they must be ' pretty ; ' this effect is gained by the
addition of colour.
The colour employed must be in harmony and appro-
priate to the article to which it is applied. Thus, Rose mouth-
wash should be tinted of a beautiful blush colour ; Savon de
Tridace, or lettuce soap, is to be coloured green ; and so on.
The proper occasion to employ colour does, however, in a
measure rest with the taste of the chef of the laboratory ; and
so long as the colour of the article is in unison with the idea
of its nature, there is no objection to its free employment,
provided the colouring matter is of a harmless character when
applied to the skin.
In this respect modern perfumers have considerable
advantage over their predecessors : chemistry has supplied
them with colours not only rich in tint, but of a harmless
nature ; nay, more, for we can now colour certain substances
of tints, which, but so short time ago as when the first edition
of this work was published, it was impossible to accomplish.
Up to the time of Mr. Perkins's patent for the application of
aniline, and its derivatives, to dyeing, there were but very
few organic substances applicable for colouring perfumery.
COLOURS. 441
Mineral colours of course there are plenty ; but the majority
of them are of a poisonous nature, and cannot therefore be
employed in the laboratory of a perfumery factor. Under
the name of the colour, the several substances that can be so
tinted will be mentioned.
Green. — Alcohol may be coloured green by infusing in it
the dried leaves of almost any plant or herb — the leaves of
spinach, sage, grass, hay, and numerous others, being either
sun-dried or. artificially dried, with a current of warm air, and
then put into the spirit, will colour it of various beautiful
shades of green. The pomades of violet and acacia also
colour spirit green by maceration, but the more beautiful the
tint as a rule the older is the pomade or the tincture ; fresh
spirit of acacia or violet is of a brown-green tint, but if it has
been prepared for some time, being more or less exposed to
the air, then it passes to a spring-grass green colour, and the
perfume is deteriorated.
Green coloured perfumery is much admired ; hence a
little acacia is often used in a bouquet on account of its tint.
Oils and pomades may be coloured GREEN thus : dried
spinach or other leaves are put into rectified spirits of wine,
the spirit rapidly dissolves out the green colouring matter of
the plants, called chlorophyle ; the spirit being then pressed
away from the spent leaves, is to be put on to more leaves,
and again pressed out when the colouring is dissolved : this
operation repeated several times with the same spirit it will
become of a rich deep green colour, on account of its holding
the chlorophyle in solution. When the quantities operated
upon are large, and it is essential to save the spirit, the tincture
may be placed into a retort or still, and then distilled at a low
temperature. Steam distillation is best. The green residuary
extract that remains after the spirit is evaporated being now
triturated with oil or fat, will colour the grease of a pretty
green.
442 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Watery fluids, milks, &c., may be tinted of a beautiful
GREEN with a green solution of dye recently introduced by
Messrs. Judson, of Cannon Street.
Soap may be coloured green by making in the melting-
pan a judicious mixture of soap, containing from seven pounds
to fourteen pounds of new palm oil to every hundredweight
of soap. This produces a good yellow body soap. To this
we add one, two, or three ounces of blue smalt, or of ultra-
marine blue, mixed with half a pint of water. The blue
colour and the yellow soap produce, when crutched together,
a vegetable green tint. Green soaps are sometimes produced
with salts of copper, chromate of potass, and chromate of
lead. These materials being all pernicious, manufacturers
using them ought to be publicly fined.
Powders may be coloured GREEN by employing the dried
powders of fresh herbs, such as parsley, spinach, bay leaves,
&c., mixed with starch.
Azure, Prussian blue, and Indigo blue may be used with-
out danger.
Yellow. — Saffron, palm oil, and turmeric, are the prin-
cipal yellow stains used by perfumers.
Alcohol may be coloured YELLOW, or rather of a beautiful
uranium-glass tint, by the maceration of jonquil pomade ; the
pollen of the flowers in the first place imparts its tint to the
grease, which, in turn, is given up to the spirit. Alcohol may
be dyed yellow by infusing in it the turmeric root {Curcuma
longa of India), the well-known condiment, mixed in curry
powder, &c.
Watery lotions and emulsions may be Conveniently coloured
YELLOW with saffron, which consists of the stigmata of the
yellow crocus blossom. Saffron-Walden, a town in Essex,
received its prefix on account of the saffron gardens which at
one time were extensively cultivated there.
Pomades are best coloured YELLOW by jonquil pomade.
COLOURS. 443
rose pomade, or palin oil ; the latter is the most economical;
but the two former are far more agreeable to the sm&ll. Rose
pomade has a tint of a deeper yellow than the jonquil, but is
not equal in colouring power to palm oil. The rose pomade
receives its tint from the pollen of the roses, with which it is
made in the same way as jonquil, i.e. maceration.
It is difficult to stain oils of almost any colour except red
and purple ; we know of nothing that will colour oil yellow
artificially.
Palm ' oil ' being in fact not an oil at all in this country,
but always more solid than butter, and opaque, will not serve
for colouring oil yellow.
Red, Rose, Violet, and Mauve.— All these tints may
be conveniently considered together, because the mode of
obtaining them is from one and the same source — namely,
aniline.
Alcohol vectwes from the variety of aniline colours all the
shades a perfumer can desire ; the smallest distinction in the
shade of a colour is sufficient to require a special name to
indicate it. The two most famous tints which approach the
rose and red in the aniline series are known as Magenta and
Solferino, so named from the towns in Italy, where the battles
were fought between the French, Piedmontese, and Austrians.
Oils, fats, wax, and spermaceti, may be easily coloured
RED with the roots of the Anchusa tinctoria, commonly called
alkanet root, and for this purpose the plant is cultivated to a
considerable extent in the south of France about Montpellier,
and also in Turkey in Asia.
In order to colour oil, one, two, or three pounds of alkanet
root are broken up and put into a vessel, which can be placed
into hot or boiling water. The root is then covered with
either olive or almond oil, and kept hot for several days ; after
which time the oil is strained away from the root, and pre-
served in a bottle under the name of ' red colouring.' If the
444 THE, ART OF PERFUMERY.
colour desired be not deep or intense enough, then the same
oil must' be put on to fresh root two or three times, or until,
in fact, it is suitable to the desired wants.
A portion of 'red colouring' thus made, is at all times
convenient as a source or material to tint pomatums and oils
of shades varying from rosy to crimson.
About I S,ooo pounds of alkanet root are imported annually
into this country.
Oils and other greasy bodies may be coloured also of
.VARIOUS TINTS by agitating them with the alcoholic solution
of all the aniline series, solferino, mauve, &c. After the oils,
&c., have taken up the colour, the spirit must be dissipated
with heat or subsidence ; we are thus, for the first time, able to
stain fatty bodies of various shades from violet to a blush rose.
A still more simple and economical method is to dissolve
the aniline in a certain quantity of glycerine, and then to
make use of the solution for colouring fatty bodies, oils and
pomades.
Glycerine may also be coloured of the most lovely tints by
these colouring matters, — Simpson's Magenta, and Perkins's
Mauve, proving the most useful.
Watery fluids take the tints of mauve, magenta, solferino,
to any shade.
Milks and emulsions take these colours well, if not kept
too long ; but if made some time, the colouring gradually
subsides in combination with the amygdaline of the almond
.or pistachio-nut from which the emulsion is made.
Reddish-Brown. — Alcohol is best coloured of a red-brown
tint with rhatany root. Rhatany is the Krameria triandra
of botanists, and is principally imported from Peru ; there is,
however, another variety of nearly similar properties that
comes from the Antilles or Caribbee Islands, — this is the
Krameria ixina ; both are bushy shrubs, and are cultivated
for the sake of the root, yielding as it does a beautiful colour
COLOURS. 445
to spirit, and on account of its flavour, extensively employed
for making fictitious port wine ; this root is also employed in
tooth powders, which see.
Another very good RED-BROWN tint is obtained in alcohol,
by making a tincture of red santal wood or red sanders in the
vemacular. Red sanders is the wood of the Pterocarpus san-
talinus, a tree natural to the Coromandel Mountains, largely
imported for the use of dyers, together with another variety,
Pterocarpus flavus, yellow sanders, which yields a yellow tint
to spirit. Cedar wood yields a good red tint to spirit, and is
employed to some extent in liquid dentifrices by the French
perfumers.
Soaps are coloured of a red brown and dark brown, with
powdered burnt sienna and umber ; but neither of these are
so well to employ, for many reasons, as the following : —
Brown.^ — Burnt sugar or molasses, boiled in an iron vessel
to the burning point, being dissolved in lime water, is the
' brown colouring ' of perfuimers, and ' caramel ' of con-
fectioners. This colour is suitable for tinting soap and hair
washes of any desired shade ; but as it is not soluble in either
grease or spirit, it does not impart colour to them.
Black. — There is no true soluble black for either -duater
or spirit ; but Indian or Chinese ink remains suspended in
these liquids longer than any other substance.
Grease and Soap can only be coloured Black, economi-
cally, with lamp-black, first rubbed with oil, then added to
the soap or grease in quantity sufficient to produce the desired
shade. Instead of lamp-black, the charcoal of cork is often
used.
446 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
SPONGE.
The best sponges imported are received from Smyrna,
and from the shores of the islands in the Grecian Archi-
pelago. When imported, they are full of sand, and in this
state it is the best way to purchase them ; then afcerwards to
beat out the sand with a stick, and well rinse them in cold
spring water. Nothing is better adapted for cleansing the
skin than a good sponge ; hence surgeons prefer it to any
other material. In the regular way of using a sponge with soap
for washing, they rapidly become greasy, and are then fre-
quently thrown aside, before half worn out. The peculiar
cellular fibrous tissue of sponge enables it to decompose the
soap, retaining the grease and oil, which render it slimy; when
such is the case, a ley of soda should be prepared, of the
strength of half a pound of soda to half a gallon of water, and
the sponge placed to soak in it for twenty-four hours ; it
should then be washed, and well rinsed in SPRING WATER,
and afterwards in water containing a little muriatic acid (a wine-
glassful of the acid to half a gallon of water is strong
enough). Finally, again rinse the sponge in plenty of spring
water. The best sponge being worth from 40J. to 8oj. per
pound, renders it fully worth while to keep them clean. If
trouble be taken to well rinse a sponge every time after using,
the cleaning process will rarely be necessary.
M. Lamiral distinguishes three kinds of sponges for which there is
a demand— the fine and soft sponge, called abiand; the fine and hard
sort, called achmar ; and lastly, the common sort, called ccibar by the
Arabs. These sponges are found in the Levant within the 36th and
33rd degrees of latitude, that is, between Alexandretta and Saida.
It is now universally acknowledged that sponges belong to the animal
kingdom, and are an aggregate of cellules built up by gelatinous polypi
similar to those which construct madreporie, porites, and other polypifers.
When the sponge is first gathered at the bottom of the sea, it is covered
OTTOS FROM PLANTS.
447
with a black but transparent gelatinous substance, resembling vegetable
granulations, among which microscopic white and oviform bodies may be
distinguished. These are the lavae destined to perpetuate the species.
When arrived at maturity, they are washed out by the sea-water which
incessantly flows through the sponge ; they then swim along, by the aid
of the vibrating cilia or hairs with which they are provided, until they
reach a suitable rock, to which they attach themselves, and there com-
mence a new life. This emigration of the lavse from the parent sponge
occurs about the end of June and beginning of July. The fine qualities
of sponges are chiefly found at a depth of 1 5 fathoms or thereabout ; the
common sponge Ues at depths varying between 20 and 30 fathoms.
The quantity of sponge imported into Great Britain in
1860:-
Exported
Used at home
Quantity
732,890 lbs.
273,588
459,302
Computed Value
■ ^285,919
• 48,025
^£^237,894
OTTOS FROM PLANTS.
Quantities of Ottos, otherwise Essential Oils, yielded by vatious Plants.
lbs.
of otto
Orange-peel 10 yield about
I oz.
Dry marjoram herb
20 „
3 „
Fresh „ „
100 „
3 „
White peppermint .
100 ,.
12 „
Black „
100 „
16 „
Dry origanum
25
2 to 3 „
„ thyme .
20 „
1 to Ij „
„ calmus
25
3 to 4 „
Anise-seed
25
9 to 12 „
Caraway .
25
16 „
Cloves .
1 „
2j „
Cinnamon
25
3 „
Cassia .
25
3 „
Cedar wood
28
4 „
Mace
2 „
3 „
Nutmegs
2 „
3 to 4 „
Fresh balm herb
60
I to \\ „
Cake of bitter almond
14 „
I „
■Sweet flag roo
t
.112 „
16 „
448
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
bs.
of otto
Geranium leaves . . . . i
1 2 yield about
2 OZ.
Mitcham lavender .
100 „
32 „
Lavender flowers .
• 112 „
30 to 32 „
Myrtl
; leaves .
• H2 „
5 »
Patchouli herb
• "2 „
28 „
Provence rose blossom
. I
12
ij to 2 drachms
Rhodium wood
• "2 „
3 to 4 oz.
Santal wood .
• 112 „
30 „
Vitivert or kus-kus-root
■ 112 „
IS ,,
Violets .
. I
12
i drachm
Hops,
New Kent .
. 100 „
4 drachms
))
Bavarian, 3 years old
. 100 „
8 „
j»
Sussex, late picking
. 100 „
2* „
Boiling and Congealing Temperatures of various Ottos, dr'c.
Fahrenheit
Almor
id oil will not boil
+ 660°
Otto of patchouli boils .
• • -<5i5°
„
vitivert „ .
. . +548°
))
santal wood boils
• + 550°
jj
cedar wood „
■ + 507°
English lavender boils .
+ 475°
>)
lemon-grass „
. +440°
j»
rose (pure Turkish) boils .
• +432°
)j
geranium (Spanish) „ .
• +430°
n
„ (Indian) „ .
. + 420°
)j
gauUheria „
almonds „ .
. +400°
• +356°
bergamot (pure !) „
caraway „ .
■ + 370°
• +348°
lemon peel
orange „ ) ''
+ 345°
j»
French lavender (spike) .
. + 180°
white wax melts
. +150°
camphor sublimes
spermaceti melts
■ + 145°
. +112"
paraffin A . . .
. + 102°
„ B . . . .
. + 90°
otto rose (Italian) congeals
„ (Turkish) „
•
. +"62°
. + 58°
geranium, neroly, cloves, depo;
.it crystals
. + 2°
santal, cedar, lemon-grass, con;
jeal to a jelly
■ - 5°
bergamot congeals .
- 12°
cinnamon still flu
id .
•
■ - 13°
FOREIGN TARIFFS. 449
SECTION XX.
FOREIGN TARIFFS ON PERFUMERY.
THERE is considerable difficulty in obtaining a correct
statement of the duties levied on perfumery at foreign
ports, because, in nearly every instance, perfumery is not re-
cognised in its distinctive character, but is subdivided into the
various materials of which it is composed, and even into the
various articles into which it is put up for sale. Thus scent
pays one duty, and the bottles in which it is packed another.
Here pomatum, coming in a plain jar, has one tariff ; but if
in an ornamented, or gilt edged jar, the tariff is different.
There, the duty is according to weight ; here, according to its
stated value.
Each and every Government suffers a loss of revenue,
checks that intercourse which commerce engenders, stifles the
desire inherent in all species, to procure and possess the pro-
ducts of foreign countries, by imperfectly taxing the com-
modities desired by the people. For instance, Russia levies
a duty of one rouble the pound on essences, if in bulk, that is,
if in such quantities that no retail purchaser could.be found
for it ; but if the same be in small bottles, such as is customary
to tlie trade, then the duty levied is three roubles ! Dealers
evade this latter impost by intporting the essences in bulk, in
tin cans, in one parcel, and the bottles in which it is to be
G G
4 so
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
eventually sold in another parcel. Thus the government
realise only the lesser duty, and exporters and importers are
put to considerable trouble and inconvenience, tending to stay
the progress of trade, much to the detriment of that govern-
ment, whose object should be to increase trade.
America, North or Federal States.
Ambergris
Balm of Gilead
Balsam of Tolu
„ all kinds
Bay water or rum .
Beans, Tonquin
Camphor, refined .
„ crude
Cascarilla
Civet
Cologne water
Essence, all .
Flower water, orange
Hungary water
Lavender flowers .
„ water
Lotions, all cosmetique
Manna .
Milk of roses
Musk .
Odours or perfumes
Oils, essential, volatile.
Paste, perfumed
Perfumes
Pomatum
Rose leaves
„ water
Rouge .
Safflower
Soap
Sponge .
Storax balsam
Vanilla beans
or expressed
Free
30 per cent.
n n
n >i
25 cents per gal
10 per cent.
20
Free
10 per cent.
20 „
50 per cent.
30
50
10
30
50
2p
50
Free
30 per cent.
10
30
10
FOREIGN TARIFFS. 451
Antigua.
All spirits S'f- P^i" gallon.
Soap \d. per lb.
General perfumery 6 per cent, art' i/.
And in addition to the above, an extra duty of 1 1\ per cent, all round ad v.
Argentine Republic.
The import duty of the Argentine Republic on perfumery of all kinds
is 40 per cent.
Australia, South.
Perfumed spirit, per proof gallon by Sykes's
hydrometer los.
Scented and fancy soaps, and general
perfumery . .... 10 per cent. rt^w.
Australia, West.
Perfumed spirit 14^. per gallon.
Scented soap and general perfumery . . 10 per cent, ad v.
A ustria.
Perfumery of all denominations, scented soap, &c., are
taxed with an import duty of
5 florins per 112 lbs. when imported in vessels of not larger size
than I pint English.
When imported in casks or boxes, a tare of 23 per cent, on the total
weight is allowed.
For the value of an Austrian florin, and other foreign coin, see Table
at p. 461.
Austrian Consulate,
29 St. Swithin's Lane.
452 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Barbadoes.
Soap IS. o\d. per loo lbs.
and 3 per cent ad v.
Belgium.
Perfumed spirit pays 102 francs the hectolitre. Scented soaps 6
francs the 100 kilogrammes.
Brazil.
Pomades.
In sticks, such as fixature, in paper, in pots, or in glass, 600 reis per
lb. gross weight.
Tare allowed for pots, or bottles, or glass or earthenware, 50 per cent.
In tinfoil 5 per cent.
Oils.
30 per cent, ad valorem.
If in bottles, either of glass or earthenware, to pay an extra 50 per cent,
on the above duty.
Other perfumery, not classified, 400 reis per lb.
Same extra duty if in pots and flasks, either glass or earthenware.
Tooth powder 600 reis per lb. gross weight.
Rouge „ „ with extra duty for pots, &c.
So.\PS.
240 reis per lb. gross weight.
An allowance of 20 per cent, tare if in pots or tins.
In cardboard boxes, paper covers, &c., no tare "allowed. Pay on gross
weight.
Canada, 1871.
Alcohol
Perfumed spirit in bulk .
Ditto in flasks of not more than 4 oz.
Fancy soaps and general perfumery
Common soap ....
$\ per gallon,
^i JO cents per gallon.
25 per cent, ad v.
25 per cent. adv.
2 cents per lb.
FOREIGN TARIFFS.
453
Perfumed soap
Ordinary „
Perfumed spirit
„ oils
Otlier goods .
Cape Town.
\os. per ICO lbs.
7j. dd. per gallon.
(>d. per lb.
10 per cent ad v.
Ceylon.
Spirits proof to I o° over 3rs. per gallon.
„ io° to 20° „ 3rs. 50 cents „
And so on 50 cents for every additional 10° over.
General perfumery 5 per cent. ««? i/.
Chili.
According to Chilian tariff, perfumery assorted {Per-
fumeria surtida) pays an import duty of
25 per cent, ad valorem.
Chilian Consulate,
43 Moorgate Street.
Columbia and Nicaragua.
Perfumery pays ad valorem duty of 50 per cent.
Costa Rica.
The import duty into Costa-Rica on soap &c., is as follows :—
Common soap in bars and other shapes 2^ cents per lb. gross, includ-
ing the packing and 50 per cent additional.
Fine common soap 5 cents per lb. gross, including the packing and 50
per cent, additional.
Musk 25 cents per oz. gross, including packing and 50 per cent addi-
tional.
General perfumery 15 cents per lb. gross, including packing and 50
per cent, additional. 1 j j •
The scented spirit is not specified by itself, but may be mcluded m
' general perfumery.'
454
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Denmark.
The Danish import duty on perfumery is charged under
the following heads : —
Balsam of Tolu and Peru
Storax
Camphor
Benzoin and myrrh ....
Musk
Bergamot, cinnamon, and other ottos
Pomatum in plain pots .
„ gilt and coloured
Soaps, fine scented ....
„ common
Sponge
Starch or violet powder .
Spirituous essences ....
Distilled waters ....
Danish lb.
Danish
Money
English
Money
rsd. skg.
* s. d.
I
52
I 2j
I
9
2|
I
22
6i
I
8
2i
Danish
oz.
56
I 4
lib.
49l
I 2
ICO
15
I 13 6
lOO
io
3 76
I
25
6|
lOO
4 8
9
I
I2t
03I
I CO
5
II 3
I
25
7
i6
76|
19I
Bottles containing fluids are allowed as emballage or tare, the con-
tents only being chargeable with duty.
The Danish lb. is equal to 17I oz. English. The rsd. =2J. i^d. The
skg. = \d.
Danish Consulate-General,
6 Warnford Court, E.C.
France.
As in several other countries, perfumery entering France
in foreign ships has to pay a slight extra duty to that entering
by a French vessel ; thus —
FOREIGN TARIFFS.
455
Spirituous essences pay .
Scented vinegars, &c., without alcohol
Scented soaps ' . . . .
Powders, unscented
Scented powder from the Island of
Cyprus
Scented powders ....
Pomatums
Liquids and pastes of all kinds
Gambict
French Foreign
Ships Ships
i5of. i6of. per loo kilos
loof. io7f. 50c. „
6f. 6f.
25f. 27f.
9f. gf. 90c. „
i84f. i94f. „
I23f. i3if. 60c. „ •
25f. 27f. soc.
Perfumed spirit
General perfumery ....
German Empire.
loj-. per cwt. (112 lbs.) upon all kinds.
Consulate General,
Bloomfield St. London Wall, E.G.
IS. 67. per gallon.
2 per cent, ad v.
Gold Coast.
Perfumed spirit
General perfumery
IS. 6d. per gallon.
10 per cent. adv.
Hawaii, Owyhee, Sandwich Islands.
The duties levied on perfumery by the last Hawaiian tariff
are as follows : —
$Z per gallon on articles containing alcohol or spirit of the strength
of 30 per cent, and upwards.
Si.y> per gallon on articles containing above 18 per cent., and under
30 per cent, alcoholic strength.
Articles containing spirit below 18 per cent, strength, and all other
articles, 10 per cent, ad valorem.
The dollar {$) is equivalent to 4^-. 2d. English.
Hawaiian Consulate,
4 Royal Exchange Buildings, E. G.
' Prior to the Gobden Treaty, sweet soap paid an import duty of l64f. per
ICO kilogrammes.
4S6
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Hayti [St. Domingo).
The following is extracted from the latest printed
tariff : —
Trunks or boxes of perfumery, 2 feet long, by i foot
wide ;?2 50
Cases larger than the above charged with a proportionate duty.
Scented soap, per 100 lbs 1^1 25 cents.
Tooth powder, per dozen boxes 40 „
Pomadesj in ordinary small pots . . -25 cents per dozen
„ in large pots or tin cases . . 20 „ lb.
„ in glass jars 50 „ dozen
Cologne, in flasks .12
„ in large square bottles . . . .25
„ in half-bottles 40
Lavender, „ .... -48
Eau de Senteur 20 cents each
„ in small bottles . . . . 50 „ per dozen
India — Bombay, Madras, Calcutta.
Perfumed spirit of more than 10 ounces in bulk, 4 rupees per gallon.
If in smaller bottles, of less than 10 ounces, 5 per cent, ad valorem.
Italy.
The import duty on perfumeries , into Tuscany and Pied-
inont is —
60 lires nuova . per 100 kils.
Each lire is equal to 8^/. English.
Italian Consulate-General,
31 Old Jewry.
Jamaica.
All spirituous compounds
Soap ....
General perfumery .
loj. per gallon.
5 J. dd. per 100 lbs.
12J per cent. adv.
FOREIGN TARIFFS. 457
Mauritius.
Perfumed spirit per proof gallon by Sykes's
hydrometer . .... 96 cents per litre.
General perfumery . . . . 7 per cent, ad v.
Mexico and Sahiador.
Perfumery, pomatum, &c., &c., of all classes : —
For every 100 lbs. gross weight li'iS
Fine toilet soaps of all classes per quintal ^ . . . . $ii,
Netherlands.
The duty on the importation of perfumery into the
Netherlands is —
6 per cent, ad valorem.
Netherlands Consulate-General,
Mansfield Buildings, E.C.
New South Wales.
Perfumed spirit per proof gallon by Sykes's
hydrometer lo-^-
New Zealand, 1878.
Perfumed spirit per proof gallon by Sykes's
hydrometer i2j.
Scented soap and general perfumery . . 10 per Cent, ad v.
Common soap 3^. 6«? per cwt.
Portugal.
Soap, of all qualities, in bulk 25 reis per kilo.
„ in cakes .150 „
Eau de Cologne, gross weight, excepting porcelain
and glass 3°° »
' Quintal = 981bs. English.
458 THE ART OF PERFUMERY^
Waters, not alcoholic 50 reis per kilo.
Pomades, aromatic 500 „
Powders for the teeth ....... 250
Aromatic vinegars, including in the weight the tare,
except those of porcelain and glass . . . 300 „
Spirits, aromatic 250 „
Essences and essential oils of all qualities . . . 500 „
Pastiles and sticks for burning, odoriferous . . 500 „
Sticks and roots, odoriferous, for perfumery . . ^50 „
Musk , . 15,000 „
All articles not included_30 per cent, ad valorem.
20 reis = I penny.
0,ueensla)id.
Scented spirit, spec. grav. -825, temperature
60° Sykes's hydrometer i oj. per gallon.
General perfumery . . . . 5 per cent. n^iTz/.
Russia.
According to the Russian tariff of June 9, 1857, the duty
on perfumery and cosmetics, as enumerated, is —
10 roubles the poud weight (Russian) on Eau de Cologne, Eau de la
Reine de Hongrie et Eau de Mdlissa ; en flagons at vases ordinaires, the
duty is 30 roubles the poud.
Perfumery imported in ornamental bottles, with either gold, silver, or
metal caps, or other ornaments, have to pay the same duty as in ordinary
bottles.
The rouble is = to 3^. \\d.
9 Russian pouds = to 10 English pounds.
Spain.
There is but one general article in the Spanish tariff
referring to perfumery, and it is to the following effect :—
FOREIGN TARIFFS. 459
Art. 869. Perfumery in scented oils or waters,' creams, or fancy soaps,
with or without scent, opiates, lozenges, powders, pomades, and other
similar articles, including, as chargeable with duty, the weight of boxes,
papers, and inside packages (pots, bottles, &c.).
Import duty per pound, Spanish : — .^
3 reals 20 cents in Spanish ships
3 „ 80 „ in any other flag.
The real is equivalent to i\d.
Spanish Consulate-General,
I Cushion Court, E.C.
Switzerland.
Spirituous essences, pomades, cosmetiques, rouge,
scented oils, tooth powders, toilet powder, fuipigat-
ing ribbon, &c 3of. the 100 kilos.
Musk, either in grain or in pod, ambergi-is, rose-water,
and others "jL „
Otto of rose 3of. „
If the Swiss tariff of other articles possesses the same
anomaly as it does in perfumery articles, it is evident its
authors know very little of the ways and means of raising a
revenue.
Tasmania.
Perfumed spirit 1 2 j. per gallon.
General perfumery 5J. per cubic foot.
Trinidad.
Spirits of all kinds ns.-ptx g.allon.
Soap is.bd. per 100 lbs.
' The term ' water,' in perfumery, has a technical sense, and means literally
'spirit;' hence we have Eau de Cologne, Hungary water, &c., which contain
none of the aqua pura !
46o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Venezuela.
The printed tariff of Venezuela, dated 1859, states that
perfumes of all classes were charged —
$i\ per arroba = 56 lbs. English,
which included the bottles and boxes in which they are
packed.
The duties have, however, since that date been increased,
but to what extent I am unable to say.
, Victoria, 1877.
Perfumed spirit 20J. per gallon.
General perfumery 10 per cent, ad v.
Yellow soap, unscented ^d. per lb.
It will be seen by the foregoing statement that the tariffs
on perfumery in nearly all countries are in a confused state,
and do not realise what should be the desire of the several
Governments — that of raising an equitable revenue. The
United States of America is perhaps one of the worst exam-
ples ; how can they make perfumery, when they tax the raw
material with which perfumery is manufactured with a heavy
duty, from which France, Germany, and England are free .'
Again, the duty levied on manufactured perfumery entering
the States, has considerably decreased the trade. What ?
decrease your general trade returns ; build a tariff wall around
your country, and so imitate the Chinese .?
In order to assist readers studying the preceding tariffs, I
append a foreign money table, and comparative French
and English tables of weights and measures, for the use
of those who purchase the products of the south of France.
FOREIGN MONEY TABLE.
461
FOREIGN MONEY TABLE.
The Gold Coins are marked thus (*) ; those in Italics are of Copper
or other inferior metal.
The utility of giving this table in a Book on Perfumery
has been more than once questioned ; but the fact is, that
quotations made by vendors and buyers are constantly made
by dealers residing in other than English ports in the money
or currency of the country hailed from.
Country
Austria
Austrian Italy
Brazil
Bremen
China,
Japan
Denmark
)»
E. Indies
Bir
mah
Coins
Egypt
J)
France and Belgmm
j> "
Germany, S.W.
Great Bntam .
•Sovereign
•Imperial ducat ....
Florin or \ rixdaler of 60 kreutzers .
Copfstuck of 20 kreutzers
Ten-kreutzer piece . . . .
*Pistole
Lira Austriaca of 100 centesimi
*Moeda of 10,000 reis
Milreis 1000 reis ....
RixdoUar of 72 ^;'0/«j
Tael of 10 mace or 100 canderin or
1000 ccLsh
•Christian d'or
Rigsbank dollar of 96 skill.
*Mohur of Bengal ,
*Mohur of Bombay
•Rupee of Bombay ....
•Rupee of Madras of 1 5 silver rupees
•Star pagoda of Madras .
Madras or Co.'s rupee of 16 annas
or 192 pice
Sicca rupee : i6-isths of Co's rupee
•Sequin
Piast. or grouch of 40 /«?-«;• .
•Napoleon of 20 francs .
Franc of 100 centimes
•Imperial ducat . . . .
•Ten-florin piece . . . .
Florin of 60 kreutzers
•Sovereign of 20 shillings
Shilling of 12 pence . . . .
Sterling
Value
£ s. d.
I 7 lof
9 4f
2 oj
81
004
15 8
81
I 2 5*
020^
033*
066
16 7j
2 2I
I 13 6^
I 10 ii
I 9 2I
I 9 2j
074
I io|
I iij
5 4
2|
IS io|
009^
094;
16 IIj
I 8
I
II
462
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Country
Coins
Sterling
Value
£ J. d.
Greece .
*Twenty-drachmai piece .
14 2
» ...
Drachmi of 100 lepti
8J
Hamburg and Lu-
Mark of 16 schillings or 192 pfen-
beck .
nings
I 2I
Hanover .
Florin
2 loj
Holland and Java .
Florin or guilder of 20 stivers or
4
100 cents
I 8
Malta
•Louis
19 I
)>
Pezza of 30 tari ....
043^
Naples
Ducat of 10 carlini ....
3 3f
)»
Carlini of 10 grani ....
004
Norway
Species dollar of 1 20 j,C'z//.
4 4|
Peru
•Doubloon of 8 escudos .
3 4 61
)J
Piastre of 8 reals ....
4 2I
Portugal
*Crown of 5000 reis ....
' 3 "i
w
Milreis of 1000 reis ....
4 8|
J>
Cruzado of 480 reis .
2 3i
Prussia
•Frederick d'or
16 5a
J)
Thaler or dollar of 30 silver gro-
schen
2 lof
J?
Five-silver groschen piece
Si
>j
Silver groschen ....
001
Rome
♦Pistole
13 85
)j
•Sequin
9 4j
j»
Scudo of 10 paoli ....
4 2i
Russia
•Imperial of 10 lubles
Ruble of 100 copecs ....
I 12 9
03'^
Sicily
•Oncia of 30 tari ....
10 io|
w
Scudo of 12 tarins or 120 grani
3 III
Spain
•Pistole ......
16 2
J)
•Doubloon of 100 reals .
I 6
)j
Hard dollar or piastre of 20 reals
vellon
4 Ir
J?
Real vellon
2I
)3
Plate dol. of 8 plate reals
3 1^
»
Real of plate
4J
Sweden .
•Ducat
9 3i
045
»
Rixdaler of 48 skillings .
Turkey .
•Hundred piastre piece .
18
»
Piastre of 40 /araj- .
002
Tuscany .
Lira Tosc. of 100 centesimi
008
?)
Paolo
005!
2 I o|
United States .
•Eagle of 10 dollars ....
3)
Dollar of 100 cents ....
4 i\
FOREIGN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
463
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
French Weights and Measures compared with English.
Litres
Imperial Gallons
Grammes
Troy Grains
Kilo-
grammes
Lbs. Avoird.
I
0.220IO
I
iS-434
I
2.20486
2
0.44019
2
30.868
2
4.40971
l3
a.66029
3
46.302
3
6.61457
4
0.88039
4
61.736
4
8.81943
5
1. 10048
5
77.170
5
11.02426 •
6
1.32058
1 6
92.604
6
13.22914
7
1.54068
7
108.038
7
15.43400
8
r. 76077
8
123.472
8
17.63886
9
1.98087
9
138.906
9
19.84371
English Weights and Measures compared with the French.
Imp.
Gallons
Litres
Troy
Grains
Grammes
Lbs.
Avoird.
Kilogrammes
I
4-54346
I
0.06479
I
0-45354
2
9.08692
2
0.12958
2
0.90709
3
13.63038
3
0.19438
3
1.36063
4
18.17384
4
0.25917
4
1.81418
5
22.71730
5
0.32396
5
2.26772
6
27.26076
6
0.38875
6
2.72126
7
31.80422
7
0.4S3S4
7
3. 1 748 1
8
36.34768
8
0.51834
8
3-62835
9
40.89114
9
0-58313
9
4.08190
The standard of Lineal Measure in France is the i?fe/^^. 39.37100
English Inches make a Mfetre.
I Metre in length is if Yards, i Square Mfetre is very nearly 2 Square
Yards.
I Hectare is 2| Acres, i Hectare is 10,000 Metres, or 19,600 Yards.
The standard of Square or Superficial Measure is the Are. 119.6046
Square Yards make an Are.
The standard of Cubic or Solid Measure is the Sllre. 35.317 Solid
Feet make a St^re.
APPENDIX
H H
APPENDIX.
The Raspberry Jam Tree, or stinking Acacia (of Central
AND Western Australia), and the Gum Wattle, or fra-
grant Acacia (of South Australia).
By Louis Piesse, Calcutta.
IN my journey into Central Australia (starting from Adelaide), I
noticed a species of Acacia growing in the dry, stony beds of some of
the creeks (lat. 31° south, and long. 141'' east), the blossom of which
yielded such a putrescent odour, that it has received the pame of the
' stinking Acacia.'
The leaves yielded no sensible smell when fresh ; but having cut down
a few small branches and placed them in thg shade, I noticed that in
forty-eight hours they gave out a strong, unpleasant odour, sonietl^ing like
rotten cabbage. 1 had some branches in my tent in which the temper-
ature varied from 100° to 110° Fahr. ; and, as at the same time the air
was intensely dry, it would appear that the odour is not easily elipii^
nated.
A singular contrast was, however, exhibited in the wood, which, in^
stead of partaking of the unpleasant smell of the blossoms or the leaves,
was agreeably fragrant.
On my return to the settlements, I found that this species of Acacia,
though unknown in South Australia, Melbourne, or New South Wales,
was known in Western Australia as the ' Raspberry Jam Acacia,' from
some supposed resemblance in the fragrance of the wood to the odour of
that well-known preserve. The wood has obtained the colonial name of
' Raspberry Jam Wood ;' and the specimens frqm Swan River wtre very
superior in fragrance to those from Central Australia. It is- of a dark
colour, very similar in appearance to rosewood, very heavy, and sunk in
water like a stone ; and so hard when dry as to turn the edge of a saw or
chisel.
H H 2
468 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
The odour is probably due to the presence of a small portion of oil, as ■
is the case with santal-wood, only not so rdcherch^, and it remains yet to
be seen if it can be turned to profitable account by the perfumer. Let us .
suppose that essential oil of ' Raspberry Jam Wood,' or some other ex- ■
tract, could be obtained, it would not be a particularly pleasant perfume ;
but that does not militate against it ; for the same may be said of musk,
ambergris, and many others when pure.
The contrast between the odour of the blossom of the ' Raspberry Jam
Acacia ' and the blossom of the well-known Gum Wattle {Acacia decurrens)
is very remarkable. The former is sickly and about as fragrant as an
old cabbage stump ; the latter is most agreeable and delicious — yes, it is
most sweet ! Many of the valleys to the south of Adelaide, every year
as the season of blossoming returns, are redolent with the exquisite fra-
grance. This fragrance is, however, entirely in the blossoms, for the
wood and leaves are scentless.
The Wattle, or fragrant Acacia, has been destroyed in nearly all the
settled districts for the sake of the bark. That it might be profitably
cultivated is beyond a doubt : — ist. It yields gall-berries of great utility
in many branches of commerce. 2nd. A most valuable perfume. 3rd.
A gum similar to Guirt Arabic. 4th. The bark is much valued by the
tanner. 5th. It might be cultivated on land which also could be used for
pasturage. 6th. The seed might be turned to some account. The seed
is in pods similar to peas. Cockatoos are very fond of them. I noticed
flocks of the beautiful rose-breasted cockatoo? feeding off the seeds of
the ' Raspberry Jam Acacia' in Central Australia ; and the white cockatoos
in South Australia used to come in great numbers as regularly as the
season, and gorge themselves with the seeds of the Gum Wattle. I used
to vary my dinner— which, from there being nq fresh meat to be had,
was chiefly of salt pork— with a roast of these fellows ; but I cannot say
much in their favour, even with the recommendation of an Australian
appetite.
The gum of the fragrant Acacia is used as an article of food by the
aborigines. I have used it myself, and advised its use by others when
hard pressed, and found it extremely nutritious. It requires some little
cooking and bolting to get it down, for otherwisp you may get as hungry
while eating it as if eating walnuts. The native^ would eat two or three
pounds at a sitting.
The gum is the most valuable product, considered as an article of
commerce. Some that I sent to England as a speculation realised 60/.
per ton, and a portion 63/. per ton. The bark realised 15/. per ton. My
agent, however, advised me that those prices could not be maintained.
As the gum is four times the value of the bark, and is yielded annually,
while the bark can only be obtained once (for the tree dies), it reminds one of
APPENDIX. 469
the fable of killing the goose. A party of men and boys out 'barking'
would destroy a belt of Wattles a mile in length in a week ; and they
make no distinction as to whether they are growing on Crown or pur-
chased land, so long as the owner is not located on it.
The gum is used by manufacturers to give an apparent thickness and
superior quality to their goods ; also by confectioners and many others.
A wholesale stay-maker told me that it cost him 150/. per annum for
Gum Arabic (which, after all, is chiefly obtained from Africa) metely to
thicken and finish ladies' stays. The Australian savage eats the gum
fresh and pure. Young England consumes it as a varnish or polish on
his gingerbread and buns.
On a Means of detecting the Presence of Castor Oil
IN THE Volatile Oils.
According to Mr. H. N. Draper, castor oil may be used to adulterate
volatile oils, and if so used its presence could not be indicated by those
means applicable to the detection of other fixed oils, on account of its
solubility in alcohol. He has, therefore, devised a test for this oil, based
on the production of osnanthyhc acid. This body is a product of the
oxidation of castor oil, and is formed when the warm oil is treated with
an excess of nitric acid. A violent action ensues, duriiig which much
nitrous acid is disengaged ; and there is found floating in the aCid liquid,
when the residue is mixed with water, a soft unctuous mass. If the acid
liquid be neutralised with carbonate of soda, so as to entirely remove the
odour of nitrous acid, the smell of the oenanthylic acid can be most clearly
recognised. The mode of applying this test to the detection of castor oil
in the volatile oils is as follows : — Twenty drops of the suspected oil are
placed in a capsule, and heated on a sand-bath, until the odour of the oil
is no longer perceived. To the residue — if there be any — add five or six
drops of nitric acid, and as soon as the action has subsided, dilute with
solution of carbonate of soda. If castor oil be present, the odour will be
at once perceived, and, once smelled, is not likely to be mistaken for any
other. The author states that 5 per cent, of castor oil in a volatile oil
can be thus detected.
[Santal and cedar otto are commonly adulterated with castor oil.
— S. P.]
Detection of Fusel Oil in Spirit of Wine.
Chloride of calcium, in small pieces, is put into a beaker, and just enough
of the suspected spirit is poured over to moisten the whole ; the beaker.
470 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
is then covered with a glass plate and allowed to stand. In a short time,
if fusel oil be present, the smell will be distinctly perceptible, and will
become stronger and stronger on standing for some hours. In this way
the least trace of fusel oil can be recognised ; but when the quantity
present is very small, the mixture must be left together longer before the
experimenter smells it, and then the nose must be applied frequently at
short intervals.
The impossibility of recognising small quantities of fusel oil in spirit
depends upon the insensibility of tlie olfactory nerves produced by the
vapour of alcohol. If we wish to smell fusel oil alone, we must prevent
alcohol vapour from rising ; this is best done by mixing the alcohol with
chloride of calcium, which fixes it. Fusel oil also combines with chloride of
calcium ; but the combination is not odourless, while the alcohol is held
so fast that it does not disturb the smell of the fusel oil.
[It will be observed, in both the above cases, and in others quoted
in this Appendix, that, after all, the nose, the olfactory nerve, is the true
analyser. — S. P.]
Test for ascertaining the Presence of Alcohol in
Essential Oils— Ottos.
J. J. Bernoulli recommends for this purpose acetate of potash. When
to an ethereal oil, contaminated with alcohol, dry acetate of potash is
added, this salt dissolves in the alcohol, and forms a Solution from which
the volatile oil separates. If the oil be free from alcohol, this salt remains
dry therein.
Wittstein, who speaks highly of this test, has suggested the following
method of applying it as the best:— In a dry test-tube, about half an inch
in diameter, and five or six inches long, put not more than eight grains of
powdered dry acetate of potash ; then fill the tube two thirds full with the
essential oil to be examined. The contents of the tube must be well
stirred with a glass rod, taking care not to allow the salt to rise above
the oil ; afterwards set aside for a short time. If the salt be found at the
bottom of the tube dry, it is evident that the oil contains no spirit.
Oftentimes, instead of the dry salt, beneath the oil is found a clear syrupy
fluid, which is a solution of the salt in the spirit with which the oil was
mixed. When the oil contains only a little spirit, a small portion of the
solid salt will be found under the syrupy solution. Many essential oils
frequently contain a trace of water, which does not materially interfere
with this test, because, although the acetate of potash becomes moist
hereby, it still retains its pulverulent form.
Another process more simple and quite as trustworthy is the fol'ow-
APPENDIX. 471
ing :. — Into a graduated gauge pour a fixed quantity of the essence to be
tested ; then pour in at least double the quantity of distilled water, and
shake several times. Leave it to settle, and you will see whether the
quantity of water at first poured into the gauge has diminished. The
amount of the deficiency indicates the quantity of alcohol which was
mixed with it.
A still more certain result may be obtained by distillation in a water-
bath. All the essential oils, which have a higher boiling point than spirit,
remain in the retort, whilst the spirit passes into the receiver with only a
trace of the oil, where the alcohol may be recognised by the smell and
taste. Should, however, a doubt exist, add to the distillate a little acetate
of potash and strong sulphuric acid, and heat the mixture in a test-tube to
the boiling point, when the characteristic odour of acetic ether will be
manifest, if any alcohol be present.
The hydrocarbon essential oils, such as those yielded by all fruits of
the family of the aurantiacese or hesperidaceae, retain entirely the
potassium and the sodium and lead. When mixed with spirit which con-
tains oxygen, the metals are quickly tarnished and oxidised.
Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Otto of
Lavender.
By. Dr. J. Gastell.
There are two kinds of lavender oil known in commerce : one, which
is very dear, and is obtained from the flowers of the Lavandula vera ; the
other is much cheaper, and is prepared from the flowers of the Lavandula
Spica. The latter is generally termed oil of spike. In the south of
France, whether the oil be distilled from the flowers of the Lavandula
vera or Lavandula Spica, it is named oil of lavender.
By the distillation of the whole plant, or only the stalk and the leaves,
a small quantity of oil is obtained, which is rich in camphor, and is
called oil of spike. Pure oil of lavender should have a specific gravity
of from .876 to .880, and be completely soluble in five parts of alcohol of a
specific gravity of .894. A greater specific gravity shows that it is mixed
with oil of spike ; and a less solubility, that it contains oil of turpentine.
Detection of Poppy and other Drying Oils in
Almond and Olive Oils.
It is known that the olein of the drying oils may be distinguished from
the olein of those oils which remain greasy in the air, by the first not
472 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
being convertible into elaidic acid ; consequently it does not become solid.
Professor Wimmer has recently proposed a convenient method for the
formation of elaidin, which is applicable for the purpose of detecting the
adulteration of almond and olive oils with drying oils. He produces
nitrous acid by treating iron filings in a glass bottle with nitric acid. The
vapour of nitrous acid is conducted through a glass tube into water upon
which the oil to be tested is placed. If the oil of almonds, or olives, con-
tain only a small quantity of poppy oil, when thus treated, it is entirely
converted into crystallised elaidin, whilst the poppy oil swims on the top
in drops.
On the Colouring Principle of Volatile Oils.
By Septimus Piesse, F.C.S.
(Read before the Chemical Society.)
It is generally known that essential oils or ottos of plants have peculiar
and characteristic colours : they are either ' yellow,' ' blue,' ' green,'
' brown,' or ' white,' i.e. colourless.
Having made some progress towards the discovery of the nature of
the matters which impart these several colours, I now record the facts
ascertained. The principal interest rests with the blue substance, which
gives colour to the otto of ' camomile,' because this same body is pre-
sent in other volatile oils, and imparts to them a green colour, being at the
time under disguise by a yellow resin, which is also present in volatile oils
of a green tint.
When blue otto of camomile is subjected to fractional distillation, the
white hydrocarbon anthemidine is easily separated from the blue colouring,
because .the latter requires a much higher temperature to vaporise it than
the former.
By the fractional distillation of otto of wormwood — absinthe — I obtain
first a nearly colourless hydrocarbon ; then, at the third fractioning, an oil
having a brilliant green colour, which, at the fifth fractioning, divides into
a blue oil, and a residuary yellow resin. When otto of 'patchouly'
is obtained by distillation with water, the Indian herb pogostemon
'patchouly' is subjected to fractional distillation. I obtain in like
manner first a colourless hydrocarbon ; then, but not till the eleventh frac-
tioning, a beautiful blue oil, and a brown yellow residue. The great number
of fractionings required to separate the blue oil in this case is caused by
the closer boiling points between the ' patchouly ' hydrocarbon, the blue
oil, and the resin, all of which are exceedingly high.
The otto of bergamot, from the rind of the fruit citrus bergamia, as
APPENDIX.
473
also otto of Ceylon lemon 'grass, andropogon schenanthus, yield, by the
same treatment, small portions of this blue colouring.
By repeated rectification of the blue fluid, from whatever source
derived, I at length render it free from extraneous matter, and in a state
of purity ; it then has a fixed boiling point of 576° F., its specific gravity
0.910. When boiled it produces a dense vapour of a blue colour, having
special optical characters. I have named this substance Azulene, from
azure, blue.
The analysis of azulene shows its formula to be : —
Calculated Found
C,s 82.05 81.21
H,3 . .... II. 12 10.9s
O 6.83 7.84
100.00 100.00
Or, C,„H,j X HO.
The yellow colouring matter which imparts its tint to the several ottos
appears to be an oxidised portion of the otto so stained. In nearly all
instances ottos which are colourless when first obtained from their source
become yellow by age, i.e. oxidation. This, however, is not universal, as
the otto of nutmeg remains colourless for a lengthened period, even when
air is drawn through it by an aspirator. The oxidised portion of the
yellow coloured oils when separated from the pure otto in which it is
dissolved are true resins ; the majority of ottos oxidise during the act of
distillation ; hence, from this cause they vary in colour from pale yellow
to red brown. When new — that is, freshly distilled — several essential oils
are of a pale green tint, indicating the presence of azulene; but, as oxidation
proceeds, the yellow resin generated conceals the azulene. We have —
A. Ottos which are colourless, containing neither azulene nor resin.
B. Ottos which are yellow, containing resin only.
C. Ottos which are blue, containing azulene only.
D. Ottos which are brown, green, and yellow-green, containing
azulene and resin together in proportions varying as optically indicated.
It is remarkable how little azulene gives colour to an oil that contains
no yellow resin ; the otto of camomile is familiarised to us by its blue
colour, but it does not contain i per cent, of azulene. Patchouly ottoi
which yields 6 per cent., and wormwood otto, which gives 3 per cent, of
azulene, do not appear at all blue, owing to the presence of an excessive
quantity of yellow resin. At the third fractioning of wormwood the yellow
resin and the azulene are in due proportion to form a green solution ; and
such is probably the case with other ottos known for their green colour
such as cajeput, but which I have not yet examined.
474 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Practical Remarks on Spirit of Wine.
By Thomas Arnall.
The strength of spirit of wine is, by law, regulated by proof spirit (sp. gr.
920) as a standard ; and accordingly as it is either stronger or weaker
than the above, it is called so much per cent, above or below proof. The
Xexxa per cent. \% used in this instance in a rather peculiar sense. Thus,
spirit of wine at 56 per cent, overproof, signifies that 100 gallons of it are
equal to 156 gallons of proof spirit; while a spirit at 20 per cent, under
proof, signifies that 100 gallons are equal to 80 gallons at proof. The
rectified spirit of the Pharmacopoeia is 56 per cent, overproof, and may
be reduced to proof by strictly adhering to the directions there given —
viz. to mix five measures with three of water. The result, however, will
not be eight measures of proof spirit; in consequence of the contraction
which ensues, there will be a deficiency of about giv. in each gallon.
This must be borne in mind in preparing tinctures.
During a long series of experiments on the preparation of ethers, it
appeared a desideratum to find a ready method of ascertaining how much
spirit of any density would be equal to one chemical equivalent of
absolute alcohol. By a modification of a rule employed by the Excise,
this question may be easily solved. The Excise rule is as follows ; —
To reduce from any given strength to any required strength :- — Add the
overproof percentage to 100, subtract the underproof percentage from
100; multiply the result by the quantity of spirit, and divide the product
by the number obtained by adding the required percentage overproof, or
subtracting the required percentage underproof, to or from 100, as the
case may be. The result will give the measure of the spirit at the
strength required.
Thus, suppose you wished to reduce 10 gallons of spirit, at 54 over-
proof, down to proof, add 54 to 100= 154; multiply by the quantity, 10
gallons (154 X 10) = 1540. The required strength being proof, of course
there is nothing either to add to or take from 100; therefore, 1540
divided by 100= 15.4 gallons at proof; showing that 10 gallons must be
made to measure 15 gallons, 3 pints, 4 fl. oz., by the addition of water.
To ascertain what quantity of spirit of any given strength will contain
one equivalent of absolute alcohol :— Add the overproof percentage of the
given spirit to 100, as before ; and with the number thus obtained divide
4062.184. The result gives in gallons the quantity equal to four equiva-
lents (46 X 4).
Example.— Uow mu-h spirit at 54 per cent, overproof is equal to i
equivalent of absolute alcohol ?
APPENDIX.
475
Here
54 + loo = 1 54, and 4062.183 ^ 26.2,77^ galls., or 26 galls. 3 pts.,
154
which, divided by 4, gives 6 gallons, 4 pints, 1 5 oz.
Suppose the spirit to be 60 overproof,
then 4062.183^^^.^33 „^^^ I one-fourth of which is equal to 6
100 + 60 " ( gallons, 2 pints, 1 5j oz.
This rule is founded on the following data : — As a gallon of water
weighs 10 lbs., it is obvious that the specific gravity of any liquid will give
the weight of one gallon. The specific gravity of absolute alcohol is
.7938 1 1 ; hence, the weight of i gallon will be 7.938 1 1 lbs., and its strength
is estimated at 75.25 overproof.
4 equivalents of alcohol = 46 x 4 = 1 84,
and
23.17936 gallons X 7.9381 1 lbs. per gallon, also= 184.0003094.
Hence it appears that 23.17936 gallons of absolute alcohol are equal
to 4 equivalents. By adding the overproof percentage (75.25) to 100,
and multiplying by the quantity (23.17936 gallons), we get the constant
number 4062.183.
The rule might have been calculated so as to show at once the equiva-
lent, without dividing by 4; but it would have required several more
places of decimals : it will give the required quantity to a fraction of a
fluid drachm.
[These remarks are very useful, and are the kind of observations so
well suited to practical men. To which I add that in speaking of alcohol
or spirit, it appears necessary to explain the word ' proof,' as applied in
England to a particular strength, a standard of quantity of absolute
alcohol in a mixture of spirit and water. ' Proof is a term used by the
Excise for the purpose of levying the duty payable upon wine and other
liquids which contain alcohol. The following is the specific gravity of
various mixtures of alcohol and water : —
Specific Gravity.
0.9200 = proof spirit.
0.9075 = 10 overproof.
0,8933 = 20.4 „
0.8646=40 „
0.8298 = 60 „
0.8156 = 67 „
0.8298 = 60 overproof is the strength used in perfumery.— G. W. S. P.]
476 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness.
An interesting paper on this subject has been published by Dr. Mac-
culloch. We presume our readers are aware that mouldiness is occa-
sioned by the growth of minute vegetables. Ink, paste, leather, and
seeds are the substances that most frequently suffer from it. The effect
of cloves in preserving ink is well known ; any of the essential oils
answer equally well. Leather may be kept free from mould by the same
substances. Thus Russian leather, which is perfumed with the tar of
birch, never becomes mouldy ; indeed, it prevents mould from occurring in
other bodies. A few drops of any essential oil are sufficient also to keep
books entirely free from it. For harness, oil of turpentine is recom-
mended. Bookbinders, in general, employ alum for preserving their
paste ; but mould frequently forms on it. Shoemakers' resin is sometimes
also used for the same purpose; but it is less effectual than oil of
turpentine. The best preventives, however, are the essential oils, even in
small quantity, as those of peppermint, anise, or cassia, by which paste
may be kept almost any length of time ; indeed, it has, in this way, been
preserved for years. The paste recommended by Dr. MaccuUoch is
made in the usual way, with flour, some brown sugar, and a little
corrosive subhmate ; the sugar keeping it flexible when dry, and the sub-
limate preventing it from fermenting, and from being attacked by insects.
After it is made, a few drops of any of the essential oils are added. Paste
made in this way dries when exposed to the air, and may be used merely
by wetting it. If required to be kept always ready for use, it ought to be
put into covered pots. Seeds may also be preserved by the essential oils;
and this is of great consequence, when they are to be sent to a distance.
Of course moisture must be excluded as much as possible, as the oils or
ottos prevent only the bad effects of mould.
Introduction of Hydrogen into Essential Oils.
Change of one Otto into another.
Zinin {Bulletin de St.-P^tersbourg, T. iii. p. 529), and Kolbe {Annal. der
Chem. und Pharm. Bd. cxviii. S. 122), have experimented on the direct
addition of hydrogen to organic compounds. The latter digested a hot
saturated solution of benzoic acid and a little hydrochloric acid with,
sodium amalgam, and in this way obtained bitter almond oil, another oil
which becomes a crystalline solid on cooling, and a volatile acid. When
the action takes place in an alkaline solution, the changes are different.
APPENDIX. 477
No bitter almond oil is obtained nor the crystalline oil ; but more of the
new acid is formed, which Kolbe intends to investigate further.
Zinin's former researches on benzile showed that it might be
converted into benzoin by the direct addition of hydrogen. He now
shows that, by continuing the action longer, new bodies may be formed
containing more hydrogen than benzoin. The author made a boiling
solution of one part benzoin and three or four parts alcohol of 75 per
cent, and to this he added one part of strong alcohol, saturated with
hydrochloric acid gas, and then half a part of finely-granulated zinc was
slowly introduced into the mixture. As soon as the violent reaction
ceased, another half a part of the alcoholic solucion of hydrochloric acid
gas was added, and the mixture boiled down to a half. It was then
poured off from the undissolved zinc and mixed with water, whereupon an
oily body separated, which soon cooled into a crystalUne mass, which was
purified by re-crystallisation from alcohol. It was then obtained in
rhombic tables, which fused at 55°. This new body is more hydrogenated
than benzoin; but the elementary analysis, the author says, presents
unusual difficulties. By the action of nitric acid and of bromine on this
new body, other crystallisable bodies are formed.
Bitter almond oil, dissolved in the alcoholic solution of hydrochloric
acid and boiled with zinc, forms a thick oily body which sticks to the
sides of the flask, and on cooling becomes solid and resinous. It is freely
soluble in ether, and from the solution part crystallises out ; the re-
mainder separates as an oily mass, in which, after a time, other crystals
form.
Artificial Preparation of Odours resembling the
Fragrance of Certain Fruits.
Fusel Oil.
By W. Bastick.
This organic compound was first discovered by Scheele, as one of the
distillation products of the wort obtained from the fermentation of
potatoes. It has been subsequently examined by Pelletier, Dumas,
Cahours, and others. It is generally now termed the hydrate of the
oxide of amyl, from amyl being supposed to be its base or radical, as
cyanogen is regarded to be the radical of another series of compounds.
It passes over towards the termination of the distillation process in a
white turbid fluid, which consists of a watery and alcoholic solution of
the fusel oil. The crude oil, consisting of about one half of its weight of
alcohol and water, may be purified by being shakeft'with water and re-
478 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
distilled, with the previous addition of chloride of calcium. When the
temperature of the contents of the retort reaches 296° Fahr., pure fusel
oil distils over.
Fusel oil is a colourless oily fluid, which possesses at first not an
unagreeable odour, but at last is very disgusting, producing oppression
at the chest and exciting cough. It has a sharp, hot taste, and burns
with a white-blue flame. It boils at 296° Fahr., and at a temperature of
— 4° Fahr. it becomes solid, and forms crystals. Its specific gravity at
59° Fahr. is 0.8124, and its formula CjuHj^O.^. On paper it produces a
greasy stain, which disappears by heat, and when exposed to the action
of the air it acquires an acid reaction. Fusel oil is slightly soluble in
water, to which it imparts its odour ; and soluble in all proportions in
alcohol, ether, volatile, and fixed oils, and acetic acid. It dissolves
phosphorus, sulphur, and iodine without any noticeable change, and also
mixes with caustic soda and potash. It rapidly absorbs hydrochloric
acid, with the disengagement of heat. When mixed with concentrated
sulphuric acid, the mixture becomes of a violet-red colour, and bisulphate
of amyloxide is formed. Nitric acid and chlorine decompose it. By its
distillation with anhydrous phosphoric acid, a fluid, oily combination of
hydrogen and carbon results. By oxidation with bichromate of potash
and sulphuric acid, fusel oil yields valerianic acid, which is used in
medicine, and apple-oil, employed as a flavouring ingredient in con-
fectionery.
Valerianic acid is obtained by distillation from valerian root. It is a
strong-smelling liquid, which forms with certain simple ethers compound
ethers with variable odours. It is identical with the acid obtained by
oxidation of the essence of potato {amylic acid), with the essence of the
fruit of the Snow-ball ( Viburnum Opuliis), g,nd wiih the essence of seal fat
ox phocenie. (O. Reveil.)
Artificial Essence of Pine-Apple.
By W. Bastick.
The above essence is, butyric ether more or less diluted with alcohol ; to
obtain which pure, on a large scale and economically, the following
process is recommended : —
Dissolve 6 lbs. of sugar and half an ounce of tartaric acid in 26 lbs. of
boiling water. Let the solution stand for several days ; then add 8 ounces
of putrid cheese broken up, 3 lbs. of skimmed and curdled sour milk, and
3 lbs. of levigated chalk. The mixture should be kept and stirred daily
APPENDIX.
479
in a warm place, at the temperature of about 92° Fahr., as long as gas is
evolved, which is generally the case for five or six weeks.
The liquor thus obtained is mixed with an equal volume of cold water,
and 8 lbs. of crystallised carbonate of soda, previously dissolved in water,
added. It is then filtered from the precipitated carbonate of lime ; and
the filtrate is to be evaporated down to 10 lbs., then 5^^ lbs. of sulphuric
acid, previously diluted with an equal weight of water, are to be carefully
addqd. The butyric acid, which separates on the surface of the liquid as
a dark-coloured oil, is to be removed, and the rest of the liquid distilled ;
the distillate is now neutralised with carbonate of soda, and the butyric
acid separated, as before, with sulphuric acid.
The whole of the crude acid is to be rectified with the addition of an
ounce of sulphuric acid to every pound. The distillate is then saturated
with fused chloride of calcium, and re-distilled. The product will be
about 28 ounces of pure butyric acid. To prepare the butyric acid, or
essence of pine-apple, from this acid, proceed as follows : — Mix, by
weight, three parts of butyric acid with six parts of alcohol and two parts
of sulphuric acid in a retort, and submit the whole, with a sufficient heat,
to a gentle distillation, until the fluid which passes over cegises to emit a
fruity odour. By treating the distillate with chloride of calcium, and by
its re-distillation, the pure ether may be obtained.
The boiling point of butyric ether is 238° Fahr. ; its specific gravity,
0.904 ; and its formula, C^ Hj^ O^, or Q H, O -h C^ H, Oj,
Bensch's process, above described, for the production of butyric acid,
affords a remarkable exemplification of the extraordinary trfinsformations
that organic - bodies undergo in contact with ferment, or by catalytic
action. When cane sugar is treated with tartaric acid, especially under
the influence of heat, it is converted into grape sugar. This grape sugar,
in the presence of decomposing nitrogenous substances, such as cheese,
is transformed in the first instance into lactic acid, which combines with
the lime of the chalk. The acid of the lactate of lime, thus produced, is
by the further influence of the ferment changed into butyric acid. Hence,
butyrate of lime is the final result of the catalytic action in the process
we here have recommended.
The process for preparation of butyric acid given above is due to
MM. Pelouze and Gelis. The commercial essence of pine-apple is
prepared by dissolving one litre of butyric ether in eight or ten litres of
alcohol at 18° or 55° centesimal.
Butyric acid is also obtainable by saponifying butter by means of a
solution of potash, of a density of 1.12. The soap formed is to be
dissolved in spirit, and distilled with an excess of sulphuric acid. The
product is a mixture of butyric, capric, and caproic acids, in which the
first predominates. It may be purified as above indicated.
48o THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Preparation of Artificial Essence of Quince.
By Dr. R. Wagner.
It has been believed, until the most recent period, that the peel of quinces
contains cenanthylate of ethyloxide. New researches, however, have led
to the supposition that the odorous principle of quinces is derived from the
ether of pelargonic acid. A volatile oil, indeed, is found in quince peel,
but in very small quantity, and is consequently, very difficult to extract.
In my last research on the action of nitric acid on oil of rue, I found that
besides the fatty acids, which Gerhardt had already discovered, pelargonic
acid is formed. This process may be advantageously employed for the
preparation of crude pelargonate of ethyloxide, which, on account of its
extremely agreeable odour, may be applied as a fruit essence equally with
those prepared by Dobereiner, Hofmann, and Fehling. For the prepa-
ration of the liquid, which can be named the essence of quince, oil of rue
is treated with double its quantity of very diluted nitric acid, and the
mixture heated until it begins to boil. After some time two layers are to
be observed in the liquid : the upper one is brownish, and the lower one
consists of the products of the oxidation of oil of rue and the excess of
nitric acid. The lower layer is freed from the greater part of its nitric acid
by evaporation in a chloride of zinc bath. The white flocks frequently
found in the acid liquid, which are probably fatty acids, are separated by
filtration. The filtrate is mixed with spirits, and long digested in a gentle
heat, by which a fluid is formed which has the agreeable odour of quince
in the highest degree, and may be purified by distillation. — Journal
fur praktische Chemie.
Preparation of Rum-Ether and Essence of Strawberries.
Take of black oxide of manganese, of sulphuric acid, each twelve
pounds ; of alcohol, tw enty-six pounds ; of strong acetic acid, ten pounds.
Mix and distil twelve pints. The ether, as above prepared, is an article
of commerce in Austria, being the body to which rum owes its peculiar
odour. — Austrian Journal of Pharmacy.
We have stated that the butyrate of pure ethyloxide possesses a delicate
odour of pine-apple. By the addition of wine and potato spirits this odour
may be modified, and converted into that of strawberry or raspberry. In
a less pure state, and mixed with the ethers with accompany it when pre-
pared from butter, i.e. the capric and caproic ethers, it may be employed
for scenting the rum. Most rums of bad quality are prepared in this
way.
APPENDIX. 481
Synthesis of Otto of Rue.
The researches of Drs. Geisecke, Fittig, and Strecker bearing upon
the constitution of the essential oil of rue {Ruta graveolens) as consisting
of a mixture of ketons— viz. nonyl-methyl-keton, or caprinyl-methyluret—
the authors describe, at great length, the experiments made by them for
producing, synthetically, the oil alluded to by treating the fractional dis-
tillation products from a mixture of chemically pure caprinate and acetate
of lime, so as to obtain caprinyl-methyluret which agreed, in all properties,
with that found in natural oil of rue.
Artificial Odour of Pears.
By M. Fehling.
This is an alcoholic solution of acetate of amyloxide, and acetate of
ethyloxide. For its preparation, one pound of glacial acetic acid is added
to an equal weight of fusel oil (which has been prepared by being washed
with soda and water, and then distilled at a temperature between 2 54° and
284° Fahr.), and mixed with half a pound of sulphuric acid. The mixture
is digested for some hours at a temperature of 254°, which means acetate
of amyloxide separates, particularly on the addition of some water. The
crude acetate of amyloxide obtained by separation, and by the distillation
of the liquid to which the water has been added, is finally purified by
being washed with soda and water. Fifteen parts of acetate of amyl-
oxide are disolved with half a part of acetic ether in 100 or 120 parts of
alcohol ; this is the essence of pear, which, when employed to flavour
sugar or syrup, to which a little citric or tartaric acid has been added,
affords the flavour of bergamot pears, and a fruity, refreshing taste.
Apple Essence.
By this name is designated an alcoholic solution of valerianate of oxide
of amyl, or of potato essence. It is sometimes prepared simply by sub-
mitting to distillation crude potato oil in the presence of sulphuric acid
and bichromate of potash. But at the same time is obtained a mixture of
a Httle apple essence and a good deal of amyhc alcohol. It is therefore
better first to prepare the valerianic acid by the following method : —
Mix gradually one part of potato [fusel] oil with three parts of sul-
phuric acid and two parts of water ; separately heat two parts and a half
of bichromate of potash and four parts and a half of water ; then mix the
whole so as to keep up the boiling in the retort ; the liquid distilled is
I I
482 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
saturated with carbonate of soda, and the valerianate of soda is precipi-
tated in crystals.
Take now one part by weight of potato [fusel] oil, mix it carefully with
an equal weight of sulphuric acid, add one part and a half of perfectly dry
valerianate of soda, and keep it at a gentle heat in the bain-marie. By
adding water, the ether is separated. Purify it as in preceding cases.
This valero-amylic ether mixed with five or six times its volume of alcohol
constitutes the apple essence, the flavour of which is very pleasant.
Essence of Cognac and of Wine.
This name is applied to a mixture pf various ethers of the ethy lie series,
the odour of which, however, is due chiefly to the pelargonic ether. There
are two methods of preparing the essences. The first gives pelargonic
ether almost pure ; the second gives mixtures of very uncertain composi-
tion, and which appear to be of inferior quality. By the first method
pelargonic acid is obtained by treating essence of rue with nitric acid, as
we stated when speaking of essence of quince. To etherify pelargonic
acid it is dissolved in concentrated spirit, and a current of dry hydro-
chloric acid is passed into the mixture. As the pelargonic ether is formed
it rises to the surface.
By the second method fatty bodies are treated with nitric acid ; fixed
fatty acids are thus obtained, such as adipic, pimelic, lauric, succinic, &c.,
and some volatile acids which pass over on distillation, the principal being
the butyric, valerianic, capric, and caproic, caprylic, oenanthylic, and pelar-
gonic acids. It is this mixture which is etherised.
Sometimes spirit is scented with the product obtained by etherifying
cocinic acid extracted from cocoa oil. To obtain this acid we purify the
cocoa oil with potash, decompose the soap with hydrochloric acid, dissolve
the acid obtained in spirit, and pass into it a current of dry hydrochloric
acid. The liquid obtained is yellowish. Cleanse it in water and in
alkaline water, and the product is pure cocinic ether. Mix with ten times
its volume of alcohol.
How rich the essences of the shops are in pure essences may be esti-
mated by distillation. The alcohol boils at between 80° and 85°, and the
essences are left as a residuum.
Perfumery generally rejects artificial essences ; it nevertheless some-
times makes use of essence of mirbane, and it may possibly succeed by-
and-by in utilising other essences of agreeable odour, by taking the trouble
to combine them or considerably dilute them. As sold in the shops they
possess an odour which is very far from being pleasant ; and besides, they
have an injurious effect on the animal economy when inhaled in any
large quantity. If they are employed it must be sparingly.
APPENDIX.
483
Fruit Essences.
Fruit essences or artificial essences are alcoholic solutions of different
ethers, of which the following are the formulae : —
Pine-apple.
Chloroform
. 10 grammes
Aldehyde
• 10
Butyrate of ethyl .
• 5° .,
„ amyl .
. too
Glycerine
■ 30
Alcohol at 100
Strawberry.
1 litre
Nitric ether .
.10 grammes
Acetate of amyl
• 50
Formiate of ethyl .
• 10 „
Butyrate of ethyl .
■ 50 „
Salicylate of ethyl .
■ 10
Acetate of amyl
■ 30 „
Butyrate of amyl .
■ 20 „
Glycerine
• 20 „
Alcohol at 100
Raspberry.
I litre
Nitric ether .
. 10 grammes
Aldehyde
• 10 „
Acetate of amyl .
• 50
Formiate of ethyl .
iO „
Benzoate of ethyl .
. 10
Cold saturated alcoholic solution c
)f tar-
taric acid
• 50 !.
Glycerine
■ 40
Alcohol at lou
Apple.
I litre
Chloroform .
. 10 grammes
Nitric ether .
• 10
Aldehyde
20
Acetate of ethyl ,
• 10 „
Valerianate of amyl
• 100 „
Glycerine
■ 40
Alcohol at 100
1 litre
484
THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Pear.
Nitric ether 50 grammes
Acetate of amyl 100 „
Glycerine 100 „
Alcohol at 100 I litre
Apricot.
Chloroform .
Butyrate of ethyl .
Valerianate of ethyl
Salicylate of ethyl .
Butyrate of amyl .
Glycerine
Alcohol
10 grammes
100
5°
20
10
40
I litre
Fr. Chardin and Massignon.
On the Application of Organic Chemistry to Perfumery.
By Dr. A. W. Hofmann.
Cahours' excellent researches concerning the essential oil of Gaul-
theria procumbens (a North American plant of the natural order of the
Ericinae of Jussieu), which admits of so many applications in perfumery,'
have opened a new field in this branch of industry. The introduction of
this oil among compound ethers must necessarily direct the attention of
perfumers * towards this important branch of compounds, the number of
which is daily increasing by the labours of those who apply themselves to
organic chemistry. The striking similarity of the smell of these ethers to
that oi fruit had not escaped the observation of chemistry j -however, it
was reserved to practical men to discover by which choice and combina-
tions it might be possible to imitate the scent of peculiar fruits to such a
nicety, that makes it probable that the scent of the fruit is owing to a
natural combination identical to that produced by art ; so much so, as to
enable the chemist to produce from fruits the said combinations, provided
he could have at his disposal a sufficient quantity to operate upon. The
manufacture of artificial aromatic oils for the purpose of perfumery ' is, of '
course, a recent branch of industry ; nevertheless, it has already fallen into
the hands of several distillers, who produce a sufficient quantity to supply
the trade — a fact which has not escaped the observation of the Jury at
the London Exhibition. In visiting the stalls of the English and French
' Qy. Confectionery? » Qy. Confectioners? ' Qy. Confectionery?
APPENDIX.
485
confectioners at the Crystal Palace, we found a great variety of these
chemical perfumes, the applications of which were at the same time prac-
tically illustrated by confectionery flavoured by them. However, as most
of the samples of the oils sent to the Exhibition were but small, I was pre-
vented, in many cases, from making an accurate analysis of them. The
largest samples were those of a compound labelled ' pear oil,' which, by
analysis, I discovered to be an alcoholic solution of pure acetate of amyl-
oxide. Not having sufficient quantity to purify it for combustion, I
dissolved it with potash, by which free fusel oil was separated, and deter-
mined the acetic acid in the form of a silver salt.
0.3080 gram, of silver salt=o.i997 gram, of silver.
The percentage of silver in acetate of silver is, according to
Theory Experiment
64,68 64.5 s
The acetate of amyloxide, which, according to the usual way of prcr
paring it, represents one part sulphuric acid, one part fusel oil, and two
parts acetate of potash, had a striking smell of fruit, but it acquired the
pleasant flavour of the jargonelle pear only after having been diluted with
six times its volume of spirit of wine.
Upon further inquiry, I learned that considerable quantities of this
oil are manufactured by some distillers — from fifteen to twenty pounds
weekly — and sold to confectioners, who employ it chiefly in flavouring
pear-drops, which are nothing else but barley-sugar flavoured with this oil.
I found, besides the pear oil, also an apple oil, which, according to my
analysis, is nothing but valerianate of amyloxide. Every one must recol-
lect the insupportable smell of rotten apples which fills the laboratory
whilst making valerianic acid. By operating upon this raw distillate pro-
duced with diluted potash, valerianic acid is removed and an ether
remains behind, which, diluted in five or six times its volume of spirit of
wine, is possessed of the most pleasant flavour of apples.
The essential oil ' most abundant in the Exhibition was the pine-apple
oil, which, as you well know, is nothing else but the butyrate of ethyloxide.
Even in this combination, like in the former, the pleasant flavour or scent
is only attained by diluting the ether with alcohol. The butyric ether,
which is employed in Germany to flavour bad rum, is employed in England
to flavour an acidulated drink called pine-apple ale. For this purpose
they generally do not employ pure butyric acid, but a product obtained
by saponification of butter, and subsequent distillation of the soap with
' The writer means ether !
486 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
concentrated sulphuric acid and alcohol ; which product contains, besides
the butyric ether, other ethers, but nevertheless can be used for flavouring
spirits. The sample I analysed was purer, and appeared to have been
made with pure butyric ether.
Decomposed with potash and changed into silver salt, it gave
0.4404 gram, of silver salt = 0.2437 gram, of silver.
The percentage of silver in the butyrate of silver is, according to
Theory Experiment
55-38 55.33
Both English and French exhibitors have also sent samples of cognac
oil and grape oil, which are employed to flavour the common sorts of
brandy. As these samples were very small, I was prevented from
making an accurate analysis. However, I am certain that the grape oil
is a combination of amyl, diluted with much alcohol ; since, when acted
upon with concentrated sulphuric acid, and the oil freed from alcohol by
washing it with water, it gave amylsulphuric acid, which was identified
by the analysis of the salt of barytes.
1.2690 gram, of amylsulphate of barytes gave 0.5825 gram, of sulphate
of barytes. This corresponds to 45.82 per cent, of sulphate of barytes.
Amylsulphate of barytes, crystallised with two equivalents of water,
contains, according to the analysis of Cahours and Kekule, 45.95 per
cent, of sulphate of barytes. It is curious to find here a body, which, on
account of its noxious smell, is removed with great care from spirituous
liquors, to be applied under a difl"erent form for the purpose of imparting
to them a pleasant flavour.
I must needs here also mention the artificisd oil of bitter almonds.
When Mitscherlich, in the year 1834, discovered the nitrobenzol, he
would not have dreamed that this product would be manufactured for the
purpose of perfumery, and, after twenty years, appear in fine labelled
samples at the London Exhibition.' It is true that, even at the time of
the discovery of nitrobenzol, he pointed out the striking similarity of its
smell to that of the oil of bitter almonds. However, at that time, the
only known sources for obtaining this body were the compressed gases
and the distillation of benzoic acid : consequently the enormity of its price
banished any idea of employing benzol as a substitute for oil of bitter
almonds. However, in the year 1845, I succeeded, by means of the
anilin-reaction in ascertaining the existence of benzol in common coal-
tar oil ; and in the year 1849, C. B. Mansfield proved, by careful experi-
ments, that benzol can be won without difficulty in great quantity from
' Of 1851.
APPENDIX. 487
coal-tar oil. In his essay, which contains many interesting details about
the practical use of benzol, he speaks lilcewise of the possibility of soon
obtaining the sweet-scented nitrobenzol in great quantity. The Exhibi-
tion ' has proved that this observation has not been left unnoticed by the
perfumers. Among French perfumeries we have found, under the name
of artificial oil of bitter almonds, and under the still more poetical name
of ' essence de mirbane,' seveTal samples of essential oils, which are no
more nor less than nitrobenzol. I was not able to obtain accurate
details about the extent of this branch of manufacture, which seems to
be of some importance. In London, this article is manufactured with
success. The apparatus employed is that of Mansfield, which is very
simple : it consists of a large glass worm, the upper extremity of which
divides in two branches of tubes, which are provided with funnels.
Through one of these funnels passes a stream of concentrated nitric
acid ; the other is destined as a receiver of benzol, which, for this purpose,
requires not to be quite pure ; at the angle from where the two tubes
branch out, the two bodies meet together, and instantly the chemical
combination takes place, which cools sufficiently by passing through the
glass worm. The product is afterwards washed with water, and some
diluted solution of carbonate of soda ; it. is then ready for use. Notwith-
standing the great physical similarity between nitrobenzol and oil of
bitter almonds, there is yet a slight difference in smell which can be de-
tected by an experienced nose. However, nitrobenzol is very useful in
scenting soap, and might be employed with great advantage by con-
fectioners and cooks, particularly on account of its safety, being entirely
free "from prussic acid.
There were, besides the above, several other artificial oils ; they all,
however, were more or less complicated, and in so small quantities that
it was impossible to ascertain their exact nature, and it was doubtful
whether they had the same origin as the former.
The application of organic chemistry to perfumery is quite new ; it is
probable that the study of all the ethers or etherial combinations already
known, and of those which the ingenuity of the chemist is daily discover-
ing, will enlarge the sphere of their practical applications. The capryl-
ethers, lately discovered by Bouis, are remarkable for their aromatic
smells (the acetate of capryl-oxide is possessed of the most intense and
pleasant smell), and they promise a large harvest to the manufacturers of
perfumes.
[If the word '■flavour ' had been used by the various writers, who have
written upon this subject, in the place of the word ' perfume,' and the
' Of 1851.
4.88. THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
word ' ether' m. place of 'oil' and 'essential oil,' the dissemination of an
erroneous idea would have been prevented : the word perfume, applied to
pear oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the general tenor of the remarks
of the writers leads the reader to infer, that these substances are used by
perfumers, who not only do not, but cannot, use them in their trade, be-
cause these artificial essences, or ethers, when poured upon a handker-
chief and held to the nose, act, as is well known, like chloroform,
producing also most serious irritation of the air-pipes.
But for flavouring nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or
oils, as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in accord-
ance with assertions of Hofmann, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. How-
ever, the glorious achievements of modem chemistry have not lost
anything by this misapplication of a trade term. — SEPTIMUS PlESSE.]
Gaultheria, or Winter Green.
Mr. Bastick remarks that the chemical history of this oil is one of
great importance and interest, affording, as it does, one of the examples
where the progress of modern chemistry has succeeded in producing arti-
ficially a complex organic body, previously only known as the result of
vital force.
This volatile oil is obtained from the winter-green, an American shrub
of the heath family, by distillation. When this plant is distilled, at first
an oil passes over which consists of C^^^ ; but when the temperature
reaches 464° Fahr., a pure oil distils into the receiver. Therefore, the
essential oil of this plant, like many others, consists of two portions — one
a h) dro-carbon, and the other an oxygenated compound ; this latter is the
chief constituent of the oil, and that which is of so much chemical interest
from the fact that it has been artificially prepared.
It is termed, when thus prepared, the spiroylate of the oxide of methyl,
and is obtained when two parts of methylene, one and a half parts of
spiroylic acid, and one part of sulphuric acid are distilled together. It is
a colourless liquid, of an agreeable aromatic odour and taste ; it dissolves
slightly in water, but in all proportions in ether and alcohol ; it boils be-
tween 411° and 435° Fahr., and has a specific gravity of 1-173. This
compound expels carbonic acid from its combinations, and forms a series
of salts, which contain one atom of base and one atom of spiroylate of the
oxide of methyl. It behaves, therefore, as a conjugate acid. Its formula
isC^HjOs + C.HjO.
The spiroylic acid may be separated from the natural oil by treating
the latter with a concentrated solution of caustic potash at a temperature
of 1 13° Fahr., when wood spirit is formed and evaporates, and the solution
APPENDIX. 489
contains the spiroylate of potash, from which, when decomposed with
sulphuric acid, the spiroylic acid separates and subsides in tbe fluid.
Spiroylic acid is also formed by the oxidation of spiroyligenic acid,
4nd when saligenin, salicin, courmacin. or indigo is heated with caustic
potash.
Artificial Preparation of Oil of Cinnamon.
'Some years since Strecker ' showed that styrone, which is obtained
when styracine is treated with potash, is the alcohol of cinnamic acid.
Wolff has converted this alcohol, by oxidising agents, into cinnamic acid.
The author has now proved that under the same conditions by which
ordinary alcohol affords aldehyde, styrone affords the aldehyde of cinna-
mic acid ; that is, oil of cinnamon. It is only necessary to moisten platinum
black with styrone, and let it remain in the air some days, when by means
of the bisulphate of potash the aldehyde double compound may be ob-
tained in crystals, which should be washed in ether. By the addition of
diluted sulphuric acid, the aldehyde of cinnamic acid is afterwards pro-
cured pure. These crystals also dissolve in nitric acid, and then form,
after a few moments, crystals of the nitrate of the hydruret of cinnamyle.
The conversion of styrone into the hydruret of cinnamyle by the action
of the platinum black is shown by the following equation : CigHnjOj + 2O =
-Comptes Rendus.
Flower Farms. — Premiums for Odours of, Plants.
'The following premiurns have been placed at the disposal of the
Council of the Society for the encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and
Commerce, for the term of seven years, by Dr. Septimus Piesse, F.C.S. :
— I. A premium of 5/., for one pound of otto of bergamot, of the value of
i6j. or more in the London market, being the produce of plants (Citrus
Bergamia) grown in Australia, New Zealand, Natal, any of the British
West India Islands, or any other British Colony or Dependency. 2. A
premium of 5/., for i oz. of otto of roses, of the value of il. or more in the
London market, being the produce of any variety of roses grown together
in one plantation in the above mentioned Colonies. 3. A premium of
10/., for a canister of enflowered butter or fat, so scented with any kind
or sort of flower, either by infusion or enfleurage, or by means of these
processes jointly, of the weight of 3 lbs. or more, and of the value of
6s. per lb. in London ; the said butter or fat to be enflowered or infused
with flowers grown for the purpose in the British Colonies.'— /'iz// Mall
Gazelle.
490 THE ART OF PERFUMERY.
Use OF Fragrant Flowers.
Professor Tyndall states that the absorption of radiant heat by small
quantities of perfumes, when diffused through common air, increases its
power of arresting heat to an extraordinary degree ; thus the absorptive
power of air charged with the perfume of patchouly is 30 times greater
than that of pure air ; lavender increases the power to 60 times ; and
aniseed 372 times the natural amount : hence the perfume arising from a
bed of flowers increases the temperature of the air around them by
rendering it more absorptive of radiant solar heat.
Mercutio Frangipanni.
Morning breaks in golden splendour,
And the Heavens seem to smile
Lovingly upon the beauties
Of Antigua's purple isle.
From that island gentle breezes
Waft a fragrance o'er the deep —
The kisses of a thousand flowers
Stolen from them while asleep.
On the vessel's deck, the sailors
Gaze upon the fruitful slopes ;
And in fancy shape the future
To their selfish dreams and hopes.
.' See yon island,' cries the first one,
' It shall bring us wealth untold ;
We will spoil it of its treasures ;
We will rob it of its gold.
'We will toil and slave no longer
No more need there'll be to roam
For we'll lead the life of princes
When we reach our Spanish home. '
' Home ! ' exclaims another, laughing—
' Every place is home to me ;
I will make a nest of comfort
In this island of the sea.
APPENDIX. 491
' Day by day the tawny natives
Shall to me their treasures bring ;
Ingots heavy — precious jewels,
Fitting tribute to their king.'
Young Mercutio Frangipanni
Joins not in these worldly dreams ;
And as they speak, a shade of sadness
O'er his thoughtful forehead gleams.
' What is gold ? ' he cries with passion ;
' Can it buy you joy or health ;
Will ye never cease to barter
Peace and happiness for wealth ?
' Look again — this lovely island
Teems with riehes nobler yet
Than the glittering yellow metal
You would sell your souls to get.
' If I am to seize its treasures,
I will leave the Indian's gold
For those better gifts of nature
Which those Western climes unfold.
' See those birds of brilliant plumage,
See those incense-bearing trees ;
What is all the gold of Ophir
To the precious wealth of these ?
' Behold again, those lovely flowers
JewelUng the golden shores ;
While a perfume rare and charming
From their chalice outpours.
' Oh ! could I but catch that fragrance,
I would ask no other fame.
Than that those sweet-scented flowers
Should be coupled with my name.'
John Cdrgill Brough.
INDEX.
ABS
A BSORBENT powders, 415
Absorption. See Enfleurage
Acacia. See Cassie
— fragrant, 468
— pomade, 392
— sachet, 307
— stinlting, 467
Acetic acid, 275, 279
Acetone, 279
Act of parliament, singular, 20
Alabaster boxes, 3, 17
Alcohol, test for, in essential oils, 470
Algeria, 69
Alhambra perfume, 282
Alloxan, 423
Allspice, 87, 186
Almond balls, 381
— bandoline, 438
— cold cream, 377
— meal, 369
— paste, 368
— soap, 351
Almonds, milk of, 373
— artificial otto, 90
— oil of, 46, 87
Altar and high priest, 317 •
Amandine, 365
Ambergris, origin of, 236, 240
' — essence, 239
— extract, 239
— powdered, 240
Ambrette, grains d', 156
Ambrosial cream, 359
Ammonia, 266
Analogy of colour, sound, and smell, 45
Animal perfumes, 236
Anise, 90
— starry, 92
BAN
Aniseed, oil of, 90
Anointing, 4, 8, 9, 18
Anosmia, 55
Apple essence, 481, 483
Apricot, essence of, 484
Arabia and the spice trade, 113
' Arabian Nights ' quoted, 1 7
Aromatic cashoo, 432
— vinegar, 275
Assam musk, 259, 264
Astringent extract of roses and rose-
mary, 436
Athenian water, 435
Azulene, 56, 57
■Q ADTANI, essence of, 92
Bain-marie, 81
Balm, otto of, 93
Balls, almond, 381
— camphor, 381
— soap, 341
Balsam, 63
— adulteration with resin, 94
— definition of, 93 note
— description, 182
— method of preparation, 183
— papal bulls respecting, 184
— production of, in Salvador, 184
— tests for adulteration, 95
— of flowers, 395
— Mecca, 95
— Neroli, 396
— Peru, 95
— Storax, 95
— Tolu, 94
Banda islands, cultivation of nutmegs
in, 164
494
INDEX.
BAN
Bandolines, 437
— almond, 438
— rose, 438
Basil, holy, 96, 97
Batons, white, brown, and black, 400
— fixateur, 437
Bay rum, 435
— sweet, 96
Bears' grease, 394
Beaver, castor, 241
Ben or behen, oil of, 390
Benjamin. [Benzoin]
Benzoic acid, 89, 97
Benzoin, 53, 97
— antiseptic, 388
— flowers of, 98
■ — pomade, 392
— Siamese, 100
— - tincture of, 100
Benzole, 90
Berganiot, 100
— essence of, 57
— extract, 102
Black cosmetic, 400
Blanc, French, 417
— de perle, 418
Bloom of roses, 419
Blue for veins, 423
Blush, sympathetic, 422
Boiling temperature of ottos, 448
Book-marks, perfumed, 315
Borage, 102
Borax and myrrh powder, 429
Botot, eau de, 182
Bouquets, 86, 280
— d' Amour, 283
— d'Andorre, 283
— Bosphorus, 283
— Buckingham Palace, 283
— de Caroline or des Delices, 286
— dii Champ, 212
— Ess, 285
— Esterhazy, 285
— de Flora, 289
— Guards', 289
— Hunt, 289
— International, 296
— Isle of Wight, 296
— Italian nosegay, 289
— Jockey Club, 290
— Leap Year, 295
— Marechal, 294
CED
Bouquets, Montpellier, 294
— Mousseline, 294
— Opoponax, 300
— Reine d'Angleterre, 296
— du Roi, 224, 296
— Spring flowers, 299
— West End, 302
— ■ Yacht Club, 302
— of chord, G, C, F, 50
Breath lozenges, 432
Briar, sweet, n8
— essence of, 118
Brown cosmetic, 400
Bruges, ribbon of, 317
(^ABARDIEN musk, 259, 264
Cajeput oil, 120
Calcined talc, 418
Camphor, 102
— balls, 381
— cold cream or ice, 378
— paste, 381
— refined, 104
— soap; 351
Camphorated chalk, 428
Candles, fragrant, 10
Cannes, seat of the art, 61 note
— culture of jasmine at, 133
— manufactures, 70, 71
— produce of flowers, 68, 69
— rose-farming, 193
Cantharides lotion, 436
Caprice de la mode, 795
Caraway, 105
Carmine, 419
— Wood's process, 420
Cascarilla, 105
Cassia, 106
Cassie, culture of, 106
— extract, 109
— oil of, 108
— pomade, 108
Cassolettes, 315
Castile soap, 332
Castor, 240
— extract, 241
Castor oil, pomatum, 396
— detection of, 469
Cedar, no
— Lebanon cedar wood, in
— otto of, III
INDEX.
495
CED
Cedrat, 112
Cedria, III
Censer, 317
Chalk, camphorated, 428
Chapel Royal, offering of frankincense,
II
Charcoal in pastils, 323
— tooth-powder, 429
Chassis en verre, 82
Chemical constitution of essences, 37
Chemistry, organic, applied to per-
funfery, 484
Cherry lip-salve, 382
Chop-papers, 262
Chord of odours, 50
Chypre, eau de, 284
— sachet eau, 308
Cigars, perfuming, 274
Cinnamon, 106 i!2
— artificial oil of, 489
Circassian cream, 395
Citron, 114, 150
— soap, 357
— zeste, 145
Citronella, 114
— grass, 115
Civet, 242
— cat, 244
— extract of, 245
— sweet gloves, 243 note
— zibeth, 244
Clous fumants, 322
Clove pink, 188
— essence, 1 88
Cloves, 115
— otto of, 116
Cold cream, 376
— almond, 377
— camphor, 378
— cucumber, 378
— glycerine, 378
— rose, 376
— violet, 378
Cologne, eau de, 286
-^ camphorated, 432
— vina'gre de, 278
Colour and sound, analogy between, 34
Colouring matters of essences, 56
— principle of volatile oils, 472
Colours and odours, relation of, '65, 66
Colours, 440
— black,. 445
-DIL
Colours, brown, 445
— brown-red, 444'
— green, 441
— mauve, 443
— red, 443
— rose, 443
— violet, 443
— yellow, 442
Combinations of essences with water, 38
Commercial elements, 231
Composition of perfumes, means of dis-
covery; 147
Congealing temperatures of ottos, 448
Cosmetics, black and brown, 400
Costus. [Koosht]
Coumarin, 212
Court nosegay, 284
Cream of almonds, 358
— ambrosial, 359
— Circassian, 39S
— marrow, 397
— saponaceous, 331
Creme d'Amande, 331
— de mauve, 438
Crystallised lemon ice, 395
~ oil, 396
Cucumber, 116
— cold cream, 378
• — milk of, 374
— otto, 116
— pomade, 380 '
Curd soap. 332
Cuttle fish, 238
— tooth-powder, 429
Cyprus, perfumes from, 320
■QANDELION, milk of, 374
Dentifrice, Mialhe's, 428
Depilatory, 401, 412
— Boettger's, 413
— Bondet's, 413'
— Hernandia, 414
— sulphuret of barium, 412
Detection of castor oil, 469
— alcohol in otto, 470
— fusel oil, 469
— poppy, 471
— spike oil, 471
— turpentine, 471
Dill, 117
— oil of, 117
496
INDEX.
DIL
Dill water, 117
Discord of smells, 47
Disinfection, 52, 53, 54
Distillation, 73
Divine pomade, 380
Dry perfumes, 304
Drying house, 307
Duality of odours, 1 60
Dyes for the hair, 401
PARTHS, odours of the, 55
Eau athenienne, 203
— de botot, 182, 431
— a briller, 325
— pour briiler, 325
— des Cannes, 93
— de Chypre, 284
• — de Cologne, 286
camphorated, 432
— de luce, 269, 270
— des millefleurs, 293
— de mousseline, 294
Ecuelle, I', 144, 150, 171
Egg julep, 436
Eglantine, 118
Elder, 118
— extract, 375
— milk, 374
— water, 119
Elixir, soft water, 360
Emulsines, 365
— au jasmin, 369
— a la violette, 369
Emulsions, 371
Enfieurage, 38, 82, 136
■ — modification of process, 228
Erin, flowers of, 288
Espagne, peau d', 313
Ess bouquet, 285
Essence, definition, 281
Essence of almond, 46
— badiani, 92
— bay, 96
— bergamot, 57, loo
— cassia, io6
— cedar, in
— cedrat, 112
— cloves, 116
— cucumber, 117
— eglantine, 118
— geranium, 122
ESS
Essence of heliotrope, I2S
— honeysuckle, 128
— hops, 128
— hovenia, 129
— hyssop, 129
— Ilang-ilang, 130
— jasmine, 133
— jonquil, 137
— lavender, 139
— lemon, 144
— lemon grass, 147
— lilac, 148
— lily of the valley, I49
— linaloe, 151
— magnolia, 154
— mignonette, 154
— myrtle, 157
— narcissus, 159
— neroli, 161
— nutmeg, 167
— orange-flower, 163
— peel, Portugal, 169
— orris, 174
— patchouly, 1 76
— pea, sweet, 177
— peppermint, 178
— pine-apple, 185
— pink (clove), 188
— rose pomade, 194
moss, 197
triple, 196
twin, 196
white, 197
— — tea, 197
yellow, 197
— santal, 202
— Tonquin bean, 212
— tubereuse, 214
— vanilla, 217
— verbena, 219
— verveine, 220
— violet, 222
wood, 301
— vitivert, 224
Essences, chemical constitution of, 37
— apple, 483
— colouring matters of, 56
— combinations with water, 38
— fruit, 483
— optical properties, 39, 40, 41
— oxidation of, 58, 86
— physical characters, 42 sqq.
INDEX.
497
ESS
Essences, apricot, 484
— pear, 484
— pine-apple, 483
— raspberry, 483
— strawberry, 483
Essential oil. [Essence, otto]
Esterhazy bouquet, 285
Eucalyptus, 120
— citriodora, 148
Euchrysma, 437
Eugenie's nosegay. Empress, 285
Eugenine, 116
Evaporators, 328
Evelyn at Montpellier, 295
Exhibition of 1851, 87
Exports, English, 235
Expression, process of, 72
Extract, definition, 281. [Essence,
otto]
Eyelids, blackening the, 401
pACE painting, 417
-^ powder, 417
Farina, Piesse's, powders, 430
Farms, rose, iigo
Fennel, 120
Flag, sweet, 121
Fleur d'ltalie, 289
Flora, bouquet de, 289
Florentine recipient, 79
Flower-farming, statistics, 67
— premiums for odours, 488
Flowers, i, 60, 439
— Erin, 288
— extract of, 288
— May, 295
— odoriferous, classified, 64
— • spring, 299
— use of fragrant, 488
' Forget-me-not, ' 102
Fountain ring, 303
Frangipanni, origin of the name, 13
sqq., 492
-;- (plant), 121
— sachet, 308
— soap, 358
— Mercutio, 16, 490
Frankincense at the Chapel Royal, 11
— at Westminster Abbey, 1 1
— sources of, 122. [Olibanum]
French weights and measures, 463
HAI
Fruit essences, 483
Fuller's earth soap, 353
Fumigating paper, 326
— ribbon of Bruges, 327
Fumigation, antiseptic, 53
Fusel oil, detection of, 469
— Bastick on, 477
QAMUT of odours, 48
Garland, volunteers', 301
Gaultheria, 226, 489
Gems, scenting, 315
Geranium, 122
— ■ first commercial cultivation, 124
— introduction into Europe, 124
— oil of, 123
Glovers, Paris corporation of, 15, 26
Gloves, perfiamed, 14, 15, 26, 243 note
Glycerine, balsam, 382
— cold cream, 378
— jelly, 37°
— lotion, 375, 436
— soap, 360
transparent, 361
Golden hair powder, 414
Golden Rose, the, 12
Grains d'Ambrette, 156
Grasse, seat of the art, 61, 69, 193
Grease, inodorous, 386,
— purifying, 387
Grinding machine, soap, 336
Guards' bouquet, 289
Gum Wattle, 468
TLJAIR, oiling the, universal custom,
384, 401
— Persian customs, 402
— Greek, 403
— change in colour, 403
— case of Marie Antoinette, 403
— Haller's opinion, 403
— Davy's, 404
— Wilson's, 405
— Blyth's, 40s
— case of Orsini, 405
— dyes among the Romans, 6
to be avoided, 406
French brown, 41 1
inodorous, 410
_ — Kohol, 407
K K
498
INDEX.
HAI
Hair dyes, litharge, 409
manganese brown, 410
with mordant, 410
silver, 409
Turkish, 407
— gloss, 438
— powder, golden, 414
plain, 417
snow, 414
— washes, 434
astringent, 43S
Athenian, 435
Bay rum, 435
euchrysma, 437
'~ glycerine and cantharides, 436
Locock's, 436
rosemary, 435
-— saponaceous, 436
— vegetable, 435
Hay, new-mown, 288
Hediosmia, 125
Heliotrope, 125
— process for utilising, suggested, 125
— extract of, 127
— pomade, 398
— sachet, 309
Henna, 402
Hitchin, cultivation of lavender at, 14I
Holy Basil, 96, 97
Homoeopathic tooth-powder, 429
Honey and almond paste, 367
Honey soap, 352
Honeysuckle, 128
— essence, 128
Hongroise pomade, 399
Hops, otto of, 128
Hovenia, 129
Hungary water, 199
Hydrogen, introduction of, into essen-
tial oils, 476
Hyssop, 129
TCE, camphor, 378
Ilang-Ilang, 130
— blended, 132
— false, 132
Imports, English, 231, 233
Incense, 2,6,7, 8, 52, t^'Hs sqq.
— case, found at Whittlesea, 319
— powders, 321
— use in Church of England, 379
LIL
Indian pastils, 321
Inodorous grease, 386
— hair-dye, 410
International bouquet, 296
Iris, 172
Isle of Wight bouquet, 296
JAPANESE perfume, 29Z
J Jasmine, 46, 133
— cultivation at CanneSj 133
at Nice, 134
— method of cultivation, 135
— Alphonse Karr at sale of, 134
— inimitable, 45
— extract of, 136
Jelly, glycerine, 370
Jockey Club bouquet, 290
Jonquil, 137
Josticks, Chinese, 321
Juniper tar soap, 363
■[/■ARR, Alphonse, at sale of jasmine
134
Kew Garden nosegay, 292
Kisses, stolen, 292
Kohol, 401, 407
Koosht, 138
Kus-kus, 223. [Vitivert]
T AIT, virginal, 374
Lamp, perfume, 324
Laurel, 138
Lavender, 139
— cultivation at Hitchin, 141
at Mitcham, 142
— essence of, 143
— and millefleurs, 293
— sachet, 309
— spike oil in, 471
Leap-year bouquet, 295
Lemon, 144
— methods of preventing deterioration
146
— otto of, 145
Lemon grass otto, 147
— ice, crystallised, 395
Lemon-scented gum tree, 148
Lignaloe. [Linaloe]
Xillac, 148
INDEX.
499
LIL
Lilac imitation essence, 149
Lily, 149
— imitation lily :of the valley, 149
Lime, 15°
Lime-tree blossom, 151
Linaloe, 151
— otto of, 152
Lip-salve, 383
— cherry, 382
— rose, 382
— white, 382
Lisbon water, 1 70
Litharge hair dye, 409
Locock's hair lotion, 436
Lotion, cantharides, 436
— glycerine, 375, 436
— Locock's hair, 436
Lozenges, breath, 432
Lustral fluid, 399
AT ACE, IS3
Maceration, 80
Magnolia, 153
— imitation essence, 154
Manganese brown hair dye, 410
Mantegazza cited, 54
Marechal, bouquet du, 294
Marechale powder, 25, 224
— sachet, 310
Marie Antoinette, change of colour in
her hair, 403
Marine soap, 332
Marjoram, 154
Marren's experiments, 64
Marrow cream, 397
— pomatum, 357
Mauve, crtme de, 438
Mauve oil, 375
May flowers, 295
Meadow sweet, 154
Meal, almond, 369
— pistachio nut, 369
Mecca, balsam of, 95
Medea, 18
Medicated soaps, 36 1
Melissa, otto of, 93
Mercutio, Frangipanni, 16, 490
Mialhe's tooth powder, 428
Mignonette, 154
— essence of, 155
Milk of almonds, 373
MYR
Milk of cucumber, 374
— dandelion, 374
— elder, 374
— pistachio nuts, 374
— roses, 372
Milk bath, 22
Milks, 371
Millefleurs et lavender, 293
— eau des, 293
— Delcroix's, 293
— sachet, 31Q
Millon's process, 229
Mint, 155. [Peppermint]
Miribane, 90
Mitcham, 62, 74, 142, 179, 195
Mock orange, 209
Mode, caprice de la, 295
Money-table, foreign, 461
Montpellier, bouquet de, 294
— Evelyn at, 295
Mouldiness, perfumes preventive of, 476
Mousseline des Indes, 224
— eau des, 293
■ — sachet, 310
Mouth washes, 431
— 'eau botot, 43 1
— camphorated eau de Cologne, 432
— myrrh and borax, 431
— myrrh with eau de Cologne, 432
— styptic, 431
— violet, 431
Muse extrait de, 260
Musk, 246
— adulteration, 247, 253
— as a medicine, 247
— Assam, 259, 264
— : Cabardien, 259, 264
— chop-papers, 262
— deer, 246
— Empress Josephine's, 257
— extract, 260
— fictions about, 257, 258
— formation of, 250
— grub, 253 note
— pod, 249, 250, 253, 256, 259
■ — seed, 156
— soap, 357
— Tonquin, 259, 264
— uses in perfumery, 258
Musk-rat, 246
Myrrh, 157
— and borax, mouth wash, 431
500
INDEX.
MYR
Myrrh and eau de Cologne, 432
Myrrh- tree, 158
Myrtle, 157
— imitation essence, 157
— flower-water, 157
'M'AIL powder, 423
Naples soap, 359
Narcissus, 159
Neroli, 38, 159
— origin of the term, 163
— cultivation at Nice, 160
— various qualities, i6l
— balsam of, 396
— esprit, 162
— oil of, 161
New-mown hay, 288
Nice, 66, 67, 68, 160, 221
Nitrobenzine, 90 note
Nitrobenzole, 90
Njavi oil, 385
Nocturnal flowers, 64, 65
Nomenclature in perfumery, 28 1
Nosegay, the court, 284
— Empress Eugenie's, 285
— Italian, 289
— Kew Garden, 292
— tulip, 300
Nutmeg, 164
— cultivation by the Dutch, 164
— destruction of, 165
— oil of, 167
— otto of, 166, 167
QCTAVE of odours, 45
Odoriferous species of plants, 64
Odours, analogies with music, 51
— artificial, 479
— classification of, 47
~ by day, 63
^ difl^ision, 33
— duality of, 160
— of earths, 55
— gamut of," 48, 49
— neutralisation of, 52
— by night, 64
— octave of, 45
— of plants, 62
— protect against infection, 54
— relation to colours, 65
— resemblances of, 46
OTT
Odours, strength and volatility, 37
— velocity, 35, 36
Oil, origin of term, 281
— of ben, 390
— njavi, 385
Oils, essential, 280
— introduction of hydrogen into, 476
— fined, optical and physical proper-
ties of, 44
— volatile, colouring principle of, 56,
. 59. 472
Oil-runner, 366
Oil-soap, 332
Ointment, the precious, 8, 384
Olfactory nerve, sensitiveness of the, 46
tutoring the, 298
Olibanum, 122, 167, 168
Olivine, 367
OUa podrida, 212
— sachet, 311
Opiate tooth-paste, 430
Opoponax, 169
— bouquet, 300
Optical properties of essences, 39, 40,
41
Orange, mock, 209
— as pomander, 306
Orange-flower pomatum, 161
Orange-soap, 357
Orange- water, 69, 70 note, 162, 163.
[Neroli] ■^
Orange-tree, three odours, 62
— high value of, 171
— cultivation, 171
-- method of extracting otto, 171
Orange Zeste, 169
— Lisbon water, 1 70
— eau de Portugal, 170
Orangery, near Sydney, 163
Orris, 172
— method of cultivation, 173
— extract of, 174
Osselets of Cyprus, 320
Otto, definition, 281
Otto of allspice, 87
— almond, 89
(.artificial), 90
— anise, 90
— balm, 93
— bay, 96
— benzoin, 100
I — bergamot, loi
INDEX.
50 r
OTT
Otto of borage, 102
— caraway, 105
— cascarilla, 105
— cassia, 106
— cassie, 109
— cedar. III
— cinnamon, 1 1 2
— citron, 114, 150
— citronella, 114
— cloves, 115
— cucumber, 116
— eucalyptus, 120
— gaultheria, 226
— geranium, 122
— heliotrope, 126
— hops, 128
— Ilang-Ilang, 130
— kus-kus, 224
— lavender, 139
— lemon, 145
— lemon-grass, 147
— lemon-scented gum-tree, 14S
— linaloe, 151
— mace, 153
— marjoram, 1 54
■ — meadowsweet, 154
— melissa, 93
— mint, 155
— myrrh, 157
— myrtle, 157
— neroli, 161
— -nutmeg, 166
— olibanum, 168
— opoponax, 169
— orange peel, 169
— orris, 1 74
— patchouly, 175
— peppermint, 177
— pimento, 186
— Portugal, 169
— Rhodium, 188
— rose, 190
— rosemary, 198
— rosewood, 188
— rue, 200
— sage, 200
— santal, 202
— sassafras, 203
— thyme, 209
— tonquin, 212
— verbena, 219
— vitivert, 224
PER
Otto of wintergreen, 226
Otto, the odorous principle, 281
— changed, 476
— not an oil, 281
— pipette, 73
Ottos, quantity imported, 231
— boiling and congealing temperatures
of, 448
— yielded by plants, 447
Oxidation of essences, 58, 86
Ozone, 54
pALM, 174
- - soap, 332
Paper, perfumed letter, 314
— fumigating, 326
ParafSn, 85, 391
■ — origin of name, 391
Paste, almond, 368
— honey and almond, 367
— pistachio, 368
Pastil lozenges, Turkish, 432
Pastils, modern, 320
— fumigating, 322
■ — perfumers', 322
— Piesse's, 322
— seraglio, 321
— yellow, 321
— use of charcoal in, 323
Patchouly, 57, 174
— • origin of its use, 176
— extract, 176
— otto, 175
— sachet, 311
— soap, 358
Pea, sweet, 177
Pears, artificial odour of, 481
— essence, 484
Peau d'Espagne, 313
Peloteuse, 338
Pencil water, 411
Peppermint, 177
— cultivation of, in N. America, 178 .
— at Mitcham, 179
— white and black, 179
— distillation of, 180
Percolating process, 229
Perfume, Alhambra, 282
— a Japanese, 292
— lamp, 324
Perfumers' pastils, 322
502
INDEX.
PER
PRE
Perfumes, antiquity of, I, 2
Pomade, benzoin, 392
— among the Chinese, 2
— castor oil, 396
the Greeks, 2, 3, 4
— Circassian, 395
the Romans, 5, 6, 9
— cosmetics, 400
■ the Egyptians, 7,
— crystallised, 395
the Hebrews, 7, 8, 9, 304
— cucumber, 380
— in churches, 10, 11
— divine, 380
— mentioned in Arabian Nights, 1 7
— of flowers, 395
— use of in England, 19 sqq.
— hard stick, 400
— tax on and license for, 23
— heliotrope, 398
-r first work on, 23
— hongroise, 399
— in France, 23
— jasmine, 398
— excessive use of, 24, 25
— lustral, 399
— introduced into Spain by Arabs, 24
— marrow, 397
— three classes of, 27
— millefleurs, 398
— adulteration of, 28
— neroli, 396
— in the harem, 28
— orange, 398
— a trade mystery, 30
— philocome, 399
— in all climates, 60
— rose, 398
— principal seats of the art, 61
— tonquin, 393
— commercial importance, 67
— tuberose, 398
— simple or compound, 86
— vanilla, 393
— dry, 304
— violet, 397
— prevent mouldiness, 476
Pomander, 19, 24, 305
— statistics, 231
— orange used as, 306
Perfumed bookmarks, 315
Pomatums, English imports, 23
— letter paper, 314
Pompeii, soap found at, 330
— soap, 330
Poppy oil, detection of, 471
— spills, 327
Portugal. [Orange zestej
Peru, balsam of, 95
— eau de, 170
Peruvian dentifrice, 429
— sachet, 310
Petit grain. [Neroli]
Posy, Piesse's, 299
Physical characters of essences, 42 sqq.
Pot-pourri, 7, 212
Piesse's pastils, 322
— sachet, 311
— posy, 299
Pouncet-box, 306
■ — twin rose, 196
Pounding machines, 343
Pimento. [Allspice]
Powders, absorbent, 415
Pine-apple, 185
— blanc, 417
■ artificial essence, 478, 483
— face, 417
Pink, imitation essence, 188
— golden hair, 414
— saucers, 422
— incense, 321
— wool, 422
— nail, 423
Pipette, otto, 73
— perle, 417
Pistachio nut meal, 369
— pistachio and toilet, 41
— milk, 374
— puffs, 415
— toilet powder, 416
— rose, 417
Pneumatic process, 228
— for sachets, 306
Pomade (pomatum), origin of tei-m. 385
— snow, 414
— acacia, 392
— soap, 359
— alpaca, 394
— tooth, 326, 425, 426
— baton, 400
— violet, 416
— bears' grease, 394
Press, oil and tincture, 72, 84
INDEX.
503
ERE
Preston salts, 269
Priest at the altar, 317
Printaniers, 315
' Proof explained, 475
Puff, 41S
Puff-box, 416
Purifying grease, 387
Pyro-acetic spirit, 279
QUEEN Elizabeth's perfumes, 19, 30,
243 note
Quince, artificial essence of, 480
Quinine dentifrice, 428
■D ASPBERRY essence, 483
Raspberry jam tree, 467
Reine d'Angleterre, bouquet de, 296
Reseda, 154
Rhodium, 188
Ribbon of Bruges, 327
Ring, fountain, 303
Roi, bouquet du, 296
Rolling machine, soap, 337, 355 sqq
Rondeletia, 297
— essence of, 298
Rose cultivation at Mitcharo, 195
— farms of Roumelia, 191
Adrianople, 192
— the, fondness of Romans for, 189
— attar of, 190, 191
— Cashmere, 193
— French, 193, 194
— bandoline, 438
— bloom of, 419
— cold cream, 376
— esprit, 196
— essence of, Chinese, 197
moss, 197
• tea, 197
■ white, 197
— face-powder, 417
— lip- salve, 382
— milk, 372
— pickled, 195
— Piesse's twin, 196
— pomade, 398
— sachet, 311
— soap, 356
— vinegar, 278
— wine, 189
SAN
Rose, the Golden, 12
Rosemary, 198
— in Hungary water, 199
— hair wash, 435
— water, 434
Rosewater, 195
— antiquity of, 196
Rosewood. [Rhodium]
Rouges, 415, 418, 421
Rue, 199
— ancient use of, in Newgate, 199
— otto, synthesis of, 48 1
Rum-ether, 480
Rusma, 412
Russia leather, 200
— mode of preparing perfume, 200
— source of odour, 314
Rypophagon soap, 359
C ARYANS, the, 113
Sachet powders, 306
— acacia, 307
— au Chypre, 308
— Frangipanni, 30S
— heliotrope, 309
— lavender, 309
— marechale, 310
— millefleurs, 310
— mousseline, 310
— ' no name,' 312
— olla-podrida, 311
— patchouly, 311
— Portugal, 310
— pot-pourri, 311
— rose, 311
— santal-wood, 312
— vervein, 312
— vitivert, 312
Sage, 200
Salts, crystal, 267
— inexhaustible, 266
— Preston, 269
— smelling, 267
— Allchin's plan, 268
Sambola, 208
Sand soap, 352
Santal wood, 201
— religious use of, 201
— otto, 202
— sachet, 312
— soap, 357
S04
INDEX.
SAP
SPI
Saponaceous cream, 331
Soap, musk, 357
■ — of almonds, 358
— Naples, 359
— wash, 436
- oil, 332
Saponine, 364
— orange, 357
Sassafras, 203
— palm, 332
Savona, soap-making at, 330
— patchouly, 358
Scent-casket. [Pomander]
— rose, 356
Scented shells, 316
— rypophagon, 3^9
Scenting gems, 315
— sand, 352
— soap, hot, 353
— santal, 357
cold, 354
— spermaceti, 357
Scents, economical, 227
— soft, 331
— Socrates on, 4
— stone, of Mylos, 363
— Solon's prohibition of, 3
— transparent soft, 360
Scripture, perfumes mentioned in, 7
hard, 361
Shells, scented, 316
glycerine, 361
Schnouda, 422
— Windsor, white, 352
Secretion of odours, 63
brown, 352
Sensitiveness of the olfactory nerve.
— yellow, 332
46
— manufacture, 331
Shenstone, cited, 309
— remelting, 333
Silver hair-dye, 409
— melting-pan, 333
Siphon still, 75
— frame and gauges, 334
Smelling, sense of, 32
— grinding machine, 335,
Snow powders, 414
— rolling machine, 337
Snuff, 270
— peloteuse, 338
— preparation of, 27 1
— press, 340
— rappee, 272
— scoop, 341
— wallflower, 272
— mou ds, 341
— methods of perfuming, 273
— pelotage by machinery, 342
Soap, perfumed, 330
— conversion of soap-pastes into toilet
— antiquity of, 330
soaps, 342
— origin of the name, 330
— scenting, hot, 353
— found at Pompeii, 330
cold, 354
— trade, in England, 330
— balls, 341
— removal of duty on, 331
— plants, 364
— almond, 351
— powders, 359
— camphor, 351
Soapstone, 363
— castile, 332
Soapwort, 364
— citron, 357
Socrates on scents, 4
— coloured, 356
Soft soap, fig, 333
— curd, 332
Naples, 333
- fig soft, 333
transparent, 360
— Frangipanni, 358
Soft water ehxir, 360
— fuller's earth, 353
Solon's prohibition of scents, 3
— glycerine, 360
Spermaceti soap, 357
— hard, 331
Spice trade, ancient, 1 13
— honey, 352
— Dutch, 164
— juniper t^r, 363
— British, 164
— marbled, 341
Spike, 203
— marine, 332
— oil, detection of, 471
— medicated, 361
Spikenard, 203
INDEX.
SOS
SPI
Spills, perfumed, 327
Spirit, Amall on, 474
— French, 290
— grape and corn, 287, 290
— the right to use, 291
Sponge, 446
Spring-flowers, 299
Statistics of flower-farming, 67
— of perfumery, 231
Still, French, 74
— portable, 78
■ — siphon, 75
Still-room, 21, 31, 119
Stolen kisses, 292
Storax, 205. See Balsam of Storax
— extraction of liquid, 206
— its place among odours, 207
— its power of fixing a volatile sub-
stance, 208
Stow cited, 22
Strawberries, essence of, 480, 483
Styptic, botanic, 431
Shave, 299
' Sub rosa,' origin of the phrase, 13
Suffitus, 320
Sumbul, 208
Swans'-down puff, 415
Sweet-briar, 118
Sweet pea, 177
Sympathetic blush, 422
Syringa, 209
'J'ALC, calcined, 418
Tap funnel, 74
Tariffs, 449
— American (North), 450
— Antiguan, 45 1
— Argentine Republic, 451
— Australian, South and West, 451
— Austrian, 45 1
— Barbadoes, 452
— Belgian, 452
— Brazilian, 452
— Canadian, 452
— Cape Town, 453
— Ceylon, 453
— Chilian, 453
— Columbian and Nicaraguan, 453
— Costa Rica, 453
— Danish, 454
— French, 454
TUR
Tariffs, Gambian, 455
— German, 45S
— Gold Coast, 45S
— Hawaiian, 455
— Haytian, 456
— Indian, 456
— Italian, 456
— Jamaican, 456
— Mauritius, 457
— Mexican, 457
— Netherlands, 457
— New South Wales, 457
— New Zealand, 457
— Portuguese, 457
— Queensland, 458
— Russian, 458
— Spanish, 458
— Swiss, 459
— Tasmanian, 459
— Trinidad, 459
— Venezuelan, 460
— Victorian, 460
Temple, Sir W., cited, 21, 165
Thyme, 209
Toilet soaps, 342
— vinegar, 278
Tolu, balsam of, 94
Tonka. [Tonquin]
Tonquin, 209
— extract, 212
— musk, 259, 264
Tooth-paste, opiate, 430
Tooth-powders, 326, 425, 426
— borax and myrrh, 429
— camphorated chalk, 428
— charcoal, 429
— cuttlefish, 429
— farina, Piesse's, 430
— homoeopathic, 429
— Mialhe's, 428
— Peruvian, 429
— quinine, 428
— rose, 430
Trade secrets, 30
Transparent soap, 360
Triple esprit de rose, 1 96
Trochisci, sweet-smelling, 322
Tubereuse, 213
— cultivation of, 213
— extract of, 214
Tulip nosegay, 300
Turkish hair-dyes, 407
So6
INDEX.
TUR
Turkish pastil lozenges, 432
Turpentine, detection of, 471
Twin rose, Piesse's, 196
WANILLA, 177, 214
— commercial varieties, 21S
— curing, 217
— essence of, 217
— extract, 218
— pro, agation, 216
— various qualities, 215
Vanilline, 219
Vanillon, 215
Vaseline, 383
Veins, blue for, 423
Velocity of odours, 35, 36
Verbena, 219
— extract of, 219
— extrait de verveine, 220
— oil of, 147
Vervein. [Verbena]
Vervein sachet, 312
Vinaigre de Cologne, 278
— i la rose, 276
Vinegar, aromatic, 275
— cosmetic, 278
— four thieves', 277
— Henry's, 276
— hygienic, 278
— toilet ^ la rose, 278
k la violette, 278
Violet, 220
— farms at Nice, 221
— propagation of, 221
— cold cream, 378
— essence, 222
imitation, 223
— mouth- wash, 431
— pomatum, 397
— sachet, 312
— wood, 301
YEL
Vitivert 223
— essence of, 224
— otto, 225
— sachet, 312
— substitutes, 225
Volatility of odours, 35, 3
Volkameria, 225
Volunteer's garland, 01
WALLFLOWER,
— essence of, 226
Walnut water, 411
Walton, Izaak, cited, 309
Water, Athenian, 435
— dill, 117
— elder, 119
— Hungary, 199
— lavender, 144
— Lisbon, 170
— myrtle-flower, 157
— orange, 69
— pencil, 411
— rose, 19s
— rosemary, 434
— walnut, 411
Water cosmetic, 371, 400
Weights and measures, French, 463
West-end bouquet, 302
Westminster Abbey, frankincense at,
II
Whittlesea, incense case found at, 319
Windsor soap, 352
— musk, 258
Winter green, 226, 489
— Iceland, 227
Wood violet, 301
Woodbine, 128
YACHT club bouquet, 302
Yellow soap, 332
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