Gourmet on the Go: LOCANDA MARGON

In the city of Trento in northeastern Italy, a hilly, sharply winding road leads up to Locanda Margon, a sensational two-star Michelin restaurant owned by the famous Ferrari sparkling-wine house. Dine on its veranda, which offers stunning views of the Dolomite Mountains, the River Adige, and the bevined Trentino hills. Chef Alfio Ghezzi prepares the classics while playfully presenting little amuse-bouches that tickle the palate. Among the entrees, I loved the branzino cotto sulla pelle; the branzino with crispy skin in celery water; the linguine pasta, which comes from a local organic producer; and the filetto di maialino, which is pork tenderloin in wine sauce.

You must sample the bollicine di montagnes (“bubbles from the mountains”), such as Ferrari’s Maximum Rose. Locando Margon also has an ample list of wines made throughout Italy.