Okay, I got my RS2 back from JVC. Practically a new projector with a new bulb.

So I'm down calibrating this to the nith degree.
And I notice my "Y" fl is 9.45 on a 119" diagonal screen at 13'3" and projector calculator shows it would/should/could be around 12 in low ambient light room!

Now the question is, can you see a difference from 9 fl to 12 fl?
And why am I possibly battling this lumen thing.

Okay, I got my RS2 back from JVC. Practically a new projector with a new bulb.

So I'm down calibrating this to the nith degree.
And I notice my "Y" fl is 9.45 on a 119" diagonal screen at 13'3" and projector calculator shows it would/should/could be around 12 in low ambient light room!

Now the question is, can you see a difference from 9 fl to 12 fl?
And why am I possibly battling this lumen thing.

I tuned to a 2.35 gamma setting. hmmmmm
[IMG][/IMG]

I had a similar experience when having my projector calibrated and it turned out to be a combo of lamp mode + light spillage. You may have to run in high mode and also, ensure that you have no light spillage from say a light colored wall/ceiling.

My walls are dark blue, all of them. It is so dark with the door shut, you can't see the hand in front of your face.

My lamp now has 68 hours on it and they don't get brighter with age.

As for high power, seems I shouldn't have to.

I'm thinking about either moving the projector two feet closer hence my question as to whether or not I would see the increased brightness or get a smaller screen which I think would be a bigger hassle.

But calibrating AGAIN with CalMAN, its sure looks pretty I think.
I wonder what other RS2 owners are getting?

I would say of you like the image, leave it.
If moving the pj 2 feet closer is no big deal, do that and see how you like it.
I would save the high power setting for later unless it's too dim for you now as it will shorten the bulb life and using it later will help balance things out.
As always YMMV.
BTW, Hagar I'm not too far from you(Kent).

It ain't ignorance causes so much trouble; it's folks knowing so much that ain't so

So when I get back, I'm going to look at this. As some have known I have complained often about my RS2 being dark. Even JVC said it was but even after getting it back, I'm getting "Y" 100IRE values of 9.6 instead of 3.5 before. Better but. And I know this is on a 119" a 13'5"

At first I i thought those guys might be nuts, but its looking compelling.

So when I get back, I'm going to look at this. As some have known I have complained often about my RS2 being dark. Even JVC said it was but even after getting it back, I'm getting "Y" 100IRE values of 9.6 instead of 3.5 before. Better but. And I know this is on a 119" a 13'5"

At first I i thought those guys might be nuts, but its looking compelling.

Hagar,
You may get a better response by reposting your question via a new thread in the main Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000 USD MSRP and Up forum versus hidden in the RS3 thread. I'd be curious to hear the response as well.

I came home today to find greasy fingerprints (popcorn) on the lens of my RS2

According to the JVC manual, you are supposed to use a blower or lens cleaning paper to clean a dirty lens. It explicitly states not to use a fluid cleaning agent. The problem is, I don't think dry lens cleaning paper is going to clean a greasy fingerprint. I'm not sure what to use. I tried calling JVC, but they're closed for the night. Can anyone give me a suggestion?

I came home today to find greasy fingerprints (popcorn) on the lens of my RS2

According to the JVC manual, you are supposed to use a blower or lens cleaning paper to clean a dirty lens. It explicitly states not to use a fluid cleaning agent. The problem is, I don't think dry lens cleaning paper is going to clean a greasy fingerprint. I'm not sure what to use. I tried calling JVC, but they're closed for the night. Can anyone give me a suggestion?

I used a Zeiss lens cleaner on mine last night.... I also removed the bulb and cleaned inside, however after 2K+ hours, there was no dirt on the cloth.... (I spray a little cleaner or purified water on a lint free cloth and carefully wipe the lens)

I would think cleaners safe for coated camera lenses would be safe for the projector....

I finally got home to open up my RS2 and see if the lamp and or prism were dirty, cloudy, mucked up. Impeding my light capability.

Well, take a look for your self.
Clean as a whistle (whatever that really means).

I've got to let this go and say it works fine. My 9.6 "Y" fl reading at 13'5" on a 119" 1.0 Da lite is really pretty good.
That equates to 402 lumens which according to Art at projector Central.
"The RS2 delivers over 300 ANSI lumens. This is still plenty of light to fill a 120" screen with great contrast and snap, again due to the latent strength of its contrast and color saturation."

Owners of the JVC/Pioneer... How do you correct the keystone if there is no control for keystone?

No serious videophile should ever, EVER use a digital "keystone adjustment" feature. All it does it introduce horrendous scaling artifacts that completely destroy the fidelity of the image. It may be a feature for boardroom projectors where getting an image with borders that look geometrically correct is more important than anything else, but any serious HT enthusiast should not even take the route of front projection if he/she can't mount the projector in such a way to get true geometric conformity natively. Really. This isn't an exaggeration... "keystone" correction algorithms are more destructive to video quality than the "stadium" surround sound processing gimmickry of cheap mid-fi receivers are to a tube-loving audiophile.

What's the point of getting a $$ high-fidelity 1080p front projection device only to throw away the integrity of the image by pushing it through a cheese-grater scaling engine for geometric distortion? The lack of the feature on high-end video projection devices is a clue as to why it shouldn't be used.

It's tricky enough, but if you don't have a perfect border to fill and independent adjustments for roll, pitch and yaw then you'll drive yourself nuts! If you do have the border/adjustments, then adjust your zoom to be about an inch within the borders all the way around (approximately, since it will be keystoned at first both horizontally and vertically). Make sure the projector's keystone adjustment is off! Turn off your sources or leave unconnected (just use the nice blue screen for the full frame, at least that's what my PJ does with no input). Now play with the yaw/roll until the projected frame top/bottom is parallel to the screen top/bottom border (the image will wander off the screen sideways, don't worry). Now use the horizontal shift to bring the image back on the screen. Repeat the procedure until top/bottom looks good. Next, use pitch to get the frame sides likewise parallel to screen border sides and vertical shift to bring image back on screen. Again, repeat as needed and zoom out slowly, using horiz/vert shift to keep image frame inside the borders. You can exactly fill the borders this way. Usually you will hit either the horizontal or vertical borders first as you zoom out since most screens aren't exactly 16:9.

Looking for opinions on a "fair" price for a used Pioneer PRO-FPJ1 in excellent condition with @ 500 hours and still under warranty. Feel free to PM me with your opinion or recent purchase price if you don't want to clutter up this thread. Your help is appreciated.

...Steve"Opinions are like orgasms… mine matters most and I really don’t care if you have one or not." ;)

No serious videophile should ever, EVER use a digital "keystone adjustment" feature. All it does it introduce horrendous scaling artifacts that completely destroy the fidelity of the image. It may be a feature for boardroom projectors where getting an image with borders that look geometrically correct is more important than anything else, but any serious HT enthusiast should not even take the route of front projection if he/she can't mount the projector in such a way to get true geometric conformity natively. Really. This isn't an exaggeration... "keystone" correction algorithms are more destructive to video quality than the "stadium" surround sound processing gimmickry of cheap mid-fi receivers are to a tube-loving audiophile.

What's the point of getting a $$ high-fidelity 1080p front projection device only to throw away the integrity of the image by pushing it through a cheese-grater scaling engine for geometric distortion? The lack of the feature on high-end video projection devices is a clue as to why it shouldn't be used.

Can you mount your PJ to get proper geometric display?

David,

After doing some research I now understand how keystone affect the picture. Best just to get a mount that allow for easy correction like the RPMA from Chief MFG.