|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches

|Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)||22 ***||P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A||30m||Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches

Line 140:

Line 140:

|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

|New Year's Revolution||23 ***||9D||.||Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

|-

|-

−

|Fire Fly||24 ***||.||.||An extra bolt has been added to avoid a ground fall. Stiff for 23?

+

|Fire Fly||24 ***||.||.||Overhanging and quite sustained.

|-

|-

−

|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Upgraded on consensus, see forum.

+

|Keep Walking Johnny||27 ***||.||.||Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!

|-

|-

−

|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||.

+

|Black Out||27 *****||.||.||Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained.

|-

|-

|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!

|Blue Suede Shoes||21 ****||.||.||Classic climb!

|-

|-

−

|The Silence Of The Lambs||25 ***||.||.||Climb the technical slab up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. BB and FA: David Wade.

+

|The Silence Of The Lambs||25 ***||.||.||Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: David Wade.

|The Bat||24***||11D||.||Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade. First Ascent: David Wade.

|-

|-

|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|Fruital Brute||20 ||.||.||Grovelly start, long run out to third bolt, potential for grounder.

|}

|}

Revision as of 20:29, 30 September 2012

A view of the right side of Bronkies crag from across the river.

Getting there

From JHB:

Either take the N1 north and then the N4 east (Witbank). Take the Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R25). Turn right to go south towards the R25. At the T-junction turn left onto the R25 towards Bronkhorstspruit. Then shortly thereafter, at the R42 junction to Delmas, turn right. After 3,8km at the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the right (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m further than where it used to be in the past). Turn right onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

Or take the N12 east (Witbank). Turn off at the Delmas, Bronkhorstspruit off ramp (R42). Turn left and continue on for about 25Km passing the Bronkhorstspruit dam on the left. Before the crest of a hill the gate to the farm will be on the left (sign for Department of water affairs and forestry - this is +- 500m before the old turnoff). Turn left onto the dirt road. Due to the road works there are more than one parking area in use.

Access rules and arrangements

The crag and parking etc. is private property and the owners right of admission is reserved. The Mountain Club of South Africa has come to an agreement for access to this area for its members. Any individual making use of this access arrangement agrees to the conditions stated below. Contact the Magaliesberg (Pretoria) or Johannesburg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa in case of any query or doubt.

Entrance fees are as follows:

R20 for adults

R10 for school going children above 12 years old

R5 for children 12 years of age and below

Please pay the entrance fee and sign the visitors book upon entrance. Someone will come out with the visitors book, otherwise the book can be found at the main house.

Please note:

Individuals enter this area at their own risk. Climbing is consider a high risk activity and can result in serious injury or even death. The owners and / or the Mountain Club of South Africa take no responsibility for any harm or death that results from individuals accessing and using this property and fixed climbing protection including damage or loss to private property due to theft, fire or any other cause whatsoever

You are responsible and accountable for your own safety and must not endanger those around you. Report any sign of danger or unusual wear on bolts

To ensure continued access please keep to the following:

Visitors must sign the access book and pay the entrance fee before entering (the access book has the MCSA logo on the cover)

Do not drive off the established roads and park only at the upper or lower parking areas

Stay on established paths. Walk in single file on existing paths and avoid creating new paths

Visitors may only go the climbing area and the paths leading to it other areas remain private

No fishing is allowed – climbing only (you may lunch picnic at the river though)

NO FIRES are allowed

Reduce disturbance to animals specifically the Black Eagles and other nesting birds. Specifically no climbing and or bolting may take place near the Black Eagle nesting site (no bolting area details below)

NO OVERNIGHT CAMPING - Climbers are only permitted during daylight hours

Carry out all waste. This is a high use area, treat peels etc. as non-disposable rubbish. We request that you inspect the area for rubbish before leaving, do not ignore other people’s litter, pick it up and carry it out

Route Info

Bronkies route names and gradings below, listed in order from right to left as you face the crag. Might be one or 2 other routes as well.

Grades upgraded/downgraded according to the crag update in SA Mountain Sport, Issue No 27, Dec-Feb 2009

Route Name

Grade

Bolts

Height

Notes

Tickled Pink

12 ***

.

.

.

Ranger's Delight

14 **

.

.

.

Fragile Ego

17 ***

5D,A

.

downgraded from 18

Straight and Narrow

21 **

5D,A

.

Keep straight in line with the bolts!

Gert's Project

.

.

.

.

No More Freeloaders

15 ***

7D,A

.

.

Pumpkin Time

17

4D,A

.

Bolts sponsored by the MCSA JHB/MAG Section

Modern Warfare

??

??

.

??

Fully

12 **

.

.

.

Kief

11 **

7D,A

.

Beware of two large loose chockstone type rocks near the 4th bolt!!!!

Pumba's Delight

12 *

.

.

Upgraded from 8 (be fair to the new guys)

Maggies Nose

14 *

.

.

Upgraded from 7 (be fair to the new guys) - this route is not suitable for top roping due to excessive drag

Derek's Dilemma

20 ***

7D,A

.

Dilemma indeed, but fun once you work it out. Beware of loose flakey rock on right hand side between bolts 5 & 6.

Austin's Mojo

15 ***

7D,A

.

downgraded from 16

Mini Me

17 ***

.

.

downgraded from 18

Rastus

18 *

.

.

.Upgraded from 17

Man's Best Friend

15 **

.

.

Trad.

The Fallen Boot

15 ****

.

.

Cool line with some nice exposure at the top.

Gunning for Crows

16 ***

.

.

downgraded from 17

George's Bush

20 ***

9D,A

23m

Cool start, chains been lowered to better position to avoid rope damage.

Venus Fly Trap

18??

9D

.

New route, FA??BB??

Kate's Moss

17 ***

6D,A

.

Easy if you have good footwork, really hard if you don’t!

Tom's Cruise

16**

8D

.

FA/BB Guenther Bargon, Could be 17

Joint Venture

22 ***

11D

.

.

Yellow Submarine

24 ***

.

20m

Powerful start!

After Burn

26 ****

.

.

.

Once there were warriors AKA You Snooze, You Lose

25 ****

.

.

Cool route. Sustained line, definitely worth getting on.

Rat Kid

25 ****

.

.

Cool route. Technical, facey start followed by an easy but pumpy finish.

Black Pearl

28 ***

.

.

Starts with some technical face climbing up to a big roof where the fun begins! Bolted by Andreas Kiefer. First Ascent David Wade.

Hairy Maclary (from Donaldson's Dairy)

20 ***

.

18m

Fun and unconventional route. Interesting finish

Mostly Harmless

21 ***

.

25m

.

Elton's John

21 ****

13D

20m

.

Blue Boots

14 **

.

15m

.

Wild Apricot

15 ***

.

.

.

Naked Orange

21 ***

.

.

downgraded from 22

Green Machine

18 ***

.

.

Very popular and long climb. Mostly good holds. Crux just before the chains.

Footloose

25 **

5D

.

For the boulderers! Short and powerfull!

The Shining

25 **

6D

.

Big move to a pinch, followed by some super small crimps. (Possibly the smallest crimps at Bronkies).

Bruce

22

.

27m

Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.

Rule Number One

22 ***

.

.

Climb the blank face up to the crack line and then out left onto the arête. The start is quite technical.

Wasabi

23 ***

12D

.

Solid 23. Overhanging route consisting of big reaches to good holds.

Of Mice and Men (2 pitch)

22 ***

P1 - 7B+A, P2 - 5B+A

30m

Can be climbed in one long pitch if you un-clip the first set of anchors after clipping the next bolt, so long as you clean the route in separate pitches

New Year's Revolution

23 ***

9D

.

Finish on the same chains as Of Mice and Men. For sure a full grade harder than OMAM. Due to broken foot grip a chain has been added to the second bolt to make it a bit easier to clip. Please do NOT remove this chain.

Fire Fly

24 ***

.

.

Overhanging and quite sustained.

Keep Walking Johnny

27 ***

.

.

Starts on a crimpy face up to a ledge. Follow the bolts to the right where the pump begins! Steep climbing up mostly good holds to the chains. Nice and long and pumpy!

Black Out

27 *****

.

.

Awesome line! A must do! Shares a start with Keep walking Johnny. At the ledge branch off to the left. Long and sustained.

Blue Suede Shoes

21 ****

.

.

Classic climb!

The Silence Of The Lambs

25 ***

.

.

Climb the technical face up to the ledge. Some interesting moves getting to and going through the roof. Bolted By and First Ascent: David Wade.

Start "No bolting" line - Eagle nest

A no-bolting policy is in place in the area either side of the Verreaux's Eagles (a.k.a. Black Eagles) nest. Queries on the no-Bolting area can be directed to the MCSA Johannesburg Portfolio member for Bolting.

Eagle update from: Walter Neser (14 October 2010):
"We are in the final stages of securing funding to release a black eagle chick back into the area next winter.
We will also do a few repairs to the fallen nest to help encourage the return of the birds to the area, and avoid it falling again. This work will be done in the non breeding season to limit disturbance.
We would appreciate any sightings of Black eagles in the area, and if at all posible, we would like to get hold of the person who reported the electrocution of the adult, as we have a relationship with eskom, and can have then do some mitigation to the structures in question, provided we have the needed details, of when where etc.
Any help on these matters would be appreciated.

Quote from Neil Smith:
The disturbance levels will be a problem during the breeding season which is about April to August. The no go zone should therefore be implemented in that period. Outside of that there should be no problem. You will need to decide on the extent of the no go zone, but the general principle should be that the climbers are out of sight of the breeding birds and that noise should be kept to the minimum. It is also worthwhile telling you that it is a criminal offense to disturb the breeding of an indigenous bird.

Walter Neser had difficulties with the red tape and authorities and that he was not able to secure a chick for 2011 (the breeding season for black Eagles is already underway so it is too late already for 2011). He is still hopeful that a spare chick could be placed there in 2012 (it would then fledge at around Sept 2012).

Some stats on the Black Eagles population status in the Magaliesberg and surrounds: indications are that of the 13 odd confirmed breeding pairs of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg and immediate surrounds that was known to breed there in 1984 (David Allan) declined to just 2 in a 2004 study (Craig Whittington-Jones)- bottom line: there are very few left. The MCSA Magaliesberg Section has, via the Richard Watmough Memorial fund, commissioned an aerial survey (i.e. micro lights) of the Magaliesberg to confirm the population status of Black Eagles in the Magaliesberg area. The results are not yet available.

End "No bolting" line - Eagle nest

Paranoia

23 ***

9D

.

Upgraded from 22

Devil's Concubine

22 ****

13D

.

Use first bolt of Devil's Disciple then go straight up and finish on last few bolts of Devil's Disciple

Devil's Disciple

21 ***

13D

.

.

Hello "Clarice"

22 *****

11D

.

.

Stone Dogs

21 **

11D

.

Intense start, eases up after that.

The Dark Half

22 ***

6D

.

Short, but sure to get you pumped!

Insomnia

24 ***

7D

.

Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".

Lamb to the Slaughter

20 ***

11D

.

.

Hannibal Lecter

23 ***

10D

.

Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence.

Memoirs of a Belay Bunny

22 ****

.

.

Cool route. Facey start with a pumpy finish through the roofs.

If Women Were Gods

20 ****

14D

.

A Bronkies classic! Long and sustained!

Urban Raptors

24 ***

13D

.

.

Grim Reaper

20 ***

8D

.

Top anchors are in an indent and therefore not visible from below. Upgraded from 19

Rock Flower

16 **

10D

.

Grade adjusted from 17.

Squeaker

16 ***

.

.

Grade updated. Can be 17 if you climb the face on the left of the corner below the chains.

P.M.S.

20 ***

.

.

Unconventional climb, with interesting roof moves.

Devil's Advocate

26 ***

.

.

. Very powerfull and bouldery crux.

Devil's Advocate Direct(open project)

Takes the direct start of devil's advocate keeping just left of the bolts.Should be fairly hard.

.

.

.FA:Put your name here!

Ex Girlfriend's Crack

19 ***

.

.

For the trad kings and queens. This route is sure to test your technique!

Angry Dragon

21

.

.

The Bat

24***

11D

.

Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun! Bolted By Daryll Margetts and David Wade. First Ascent: David Wade.