Many people use Google or other search engines looking for information. Often there are no readily available answers. I’m not saying I’ll always have an answer for you but I can find the information. There is a lot of information in the blog. Categories are on the right side of each page.Feel free to EMAIL me at GunnerWordpress@gmail.com and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

As far as I know there are no reliable websites that show lubrication points. It’s really pretty straightforward though. The lubrication points are the same on the XD and Glock.
I use Slip2000 or Militec on all my guns. The points to apply lube are both slide rails. Apply three small drops of this type of lube on each slide rail. Also apply one drop into the trigger mechanism within the frame. The last place is the barrel. Apply a few drops on the barrel then smooth the lube out around the barrel with your finger. Remove any excess with a cleaning patch. On the bottom of the barrel where the barrel lockup is needs one drop also.
Reassemble then work the slide about a dozen times to distribute the lube. If there is any extra it will show at the rear of the slide. Just wipe this off and you are good to shoot.
Over lubrication doesn’t help and only waste lube and contributes nothing to reliability. Applying lube to these points should be all you need on both pistols.
Just let me know if you need anything else—I’m usually around:-)

I need information on the value of a Detonics .45 stainless signature model combat master weapon.
Thank you for all the helpful information on your site.
Thanks for your help in advance.
All the best,
Bud

Hi, I came across your site looking for info about RIA 1911, I just came home from the gunshop, I’m stuck between SA GI 1911 or MIL SPEC or the RIA 1911, this will be my first 1911 and I just can’t decide if I want to shell out the extra $$$ for that SA, you gave the RIA a good write up, how has it held up since your original review?

Well I tell you I have never had a problem with any of the Rock Island 1911’s. I’ve owned a few and written up several more that were loaned by the company. Same thing with the SA never a problem.
In fact I took the Rock Island Tactical 9mm out today:-)
I suppose what it boils down to is which one you like the best and do you want to spend the extra money for the SA? This one is a very personal choice rather than which is the better pistol.
If it were me I’d buy a Rock Island Tactical or GI depending on how you want to use it and a .22 conversion kit so you can shoot more with the cheap .22 rimfire. Those kits run about $250—$275.

Hello Gunner, I recently “pulled the trigger” and ordered my first AR, a Rock River Arms Tactical Operator 2. I ordered it because the dealer did not have one in stock but it fit a lot of what I wanted right out of the box, and the price seems like a real deal for a quality ar made by a reputable manufacturer.

After I got home I started surfing the internet looking for reviews and read your review on similar RRA model. My excitement began to fade as I read your review and realized the model I ordered only comes with a chrome moly barrel, not heavy or chrome lined. I’ve also been reading the debates about the different length in gas systems (mid vs. car) that you mentioned, as the Operator comes in the carbine length system. A highly debated subject I’ve come to learn.

So now I’m concerned about barrel durability and life, and the reliability and life of the rifle set up in the car config. compared to the mid.

Are my concerns valid, and are the differences enough to re-think ordering another model? I plan on using this rifle as all-around home defense varmit and target shooter, but want it to be worry free if the $&#! hits the fan! Whatever I purchase will have to last a while as I don’t have the resources to purchase several rifles before I get it right.

Well where to start. First of all you have nothing to worry about as far as the rifles life span. Since the review I’ve spent a lot more time with AR’s of all sorts as well as those who shoot them extensively as well as build them.
One person who does builds and shoots more rounds in a month than I could in six months made a comment to me. What he said was ” this isn’t Vietnam and nobody really needs a chrome lined barrel”. He’s very passionate about this subject. His explanation of that statement is that gun finishes have changed and advanced many times over since the chrome lined barrel was the standard. I have a CMMG Carbine now and it has a WASP finish. Most makers like Rock River use something similar or just good steel. These new finishes are more durable and dissipate heat better than chrome. Chrome tends to chip over time and hard use. It was all we had at that time though. The myth continues though and those who don’t know any better insist a chrome lined barrel is the only way to go.
A 223 or 5.56 still travels at the same speed regardless of mid length or carbine while in the barrel. There are several companies who still advertise chrome lined barrels playing into that old idea. As I said those chrome barre’s get older and they will chip which effects accuracy.
The Rock River in the review is the first and only middy I have all others are carbines. I’ve never had any problems with barrel life. In fact I’ve never had a failure in a carbine.
I’m very sure you’ll get long life from the rifle you ordered and the barrel in particular. Not that you ever should but they can change a barrel out quickly and pretty inexpensively.
I clean my rifles after each use and they are all going strong. Only one has a chrome barrel and it’s an old Colt from the early 70’s.
I honestly wouldn’t give it a second thought. The only thing I might add is a Rock River two stage tactical trigger which gives a lighter pull and enhances accuracy. They cost anywhere from $150 — $250 but are usually cheaper when you order a rifle custom built like yours.

Phil, after reading your reply and a few more internet articles I feel at ease about my choice. I totally agree with the entire theory of higher quality firearms with the increase in technology and manufacturing processes, including materials as time has passed. The same holds true with just about everything we as consumers purchase today.

The old saying “they don’t make em’ like they use to” doesn’t necessarily mean that’s a bad thing today.

I’m also not as worried as I originally was about the wear and tear on other parts and additional recoil with a carbine length gas system compared to a mid length.

The RRA rifle I ordered comes standard with a 2 stage trigger as you mentioned. The only thing left now is waiting for it to arrive and sending some rounds down range.

I’ll be sure to update you and the other readers as soon as I have some experience with my new rifle. Hopefully our chat may help others that are new to the AR field as I am.

Good, I’m glad that eased your mind. As I said there is so much erroneous information on these forums. You’ll love that trigger by the way!
I know you’ll enjoy it and please do let me know your impressions after you get a chance to fire some rounds downrange! You have my email now as well so please feel free to email me anytime.

That sounds worth checking out. Besides an optic (I’m leaning towards an Eotech although not sure of what model) I’m not going to go too crazy with bells and whistles. Some rifles I’ve seen look like horizontal christmas trees. But with the platforms today that allow for so much personalization is also what makes them so poular and great, and to each his own.

I don’t own many weapons but I am very proficient with them all and plan on the same with the AR. That’s my philosophy being very good and stay alive with the ones I have, rather then haveing a large collection and having them become heirlooms. But nothing wrong with owning as many as you can, I just don’t have the resources for that.

I already have a Surefire light ready to go, and besides a fore end grip and maybe a sling that’s going to have to be about it for now. That and some magpul magazines. Performance and funcion is what I’m interested in , but reducing recoil definately sounds interesting!

Well no doubt the MagPul P-mags with the window they are very good. I use those myself. I also use an EoTech. I’ve tried and tested others but the EoTech is just hard to beat. I bought the 516.http://www.eotech-inc.com/products/sights/516 Run time on two C123 batteries is approx. 1100 hours with automatic turnoff at 8 or 4 hours depending on how you set it. No night vision but who needs that or can afford it. Mine was $479.00 retail then a 10% discount.

If you buy it from Mounts Plus and use the “Gunner777″ discount checkout coupon you’ll get 10% off. You can look on the right side top of my blog and click the Mounts Plus link and that gets you the direct link to their store. Whichever you choose be sure to use the “Gunner777″ to get that discount. 10% is pretty good on that amount of money. I worked out this deal with them for readers of my blog:-) http://www.mountsplus.com/AR-15_Accessories/AR-15_Scope_Rings/EOT-516-A65.html
This is the link to the 516.

Phil, need your thoughts relavtive to optics for my RRA AR-15.
I’m trying to find a set-up that will give me quick acquistion with long range 100 to 300 yard capability with one caveat at a reasonable cost as I’m on SS at least for now? I have a 223 upper but plan on moving to a better hunting caliber, either
6.8 or 458 socom.

P.S. I think I have said this before but you have a great site very informative.

I know about being on SSI. I’m in the same boat. I’m glad I took a supplement income plan out years ago.
I started to say EoTech but they are almost $500 so that’s out but I have an optic that will fit. It’s a Vortex Strikefire. I just tested one and it’s a nice red dot that come with a 2X optic that screws in the end. That narrows the field of view but at distance that doesn’t really matter. They are $179 with your choice of low of high mount with the 2X included at that price. I tested one and I like it.
I attached a photo from my test. http://www.vortex.com

I just recently acquired a Charles Daly 1911 as a gift and I have to admit I really don’t know much about the weapon, as far as the name and quality goes. I am very familiar with the 1911 style weapons having carried one for 9 years in the Marine Corps. The weapon is full size with military type sites on it. I am considering possibly changing to a Novak 3 dot system and wonder if you have any information that might help me with that. Also I read that the grip screw bushings are a different size for a Charles Daly than for other 1911 style weapons.

I get so many emails I missed this one sorry. To answer your questions the Daly guns have the same bushings and screws as any 1911. As far as sights Novak can put those on for you. Go to http://www.novaksights.com/products/sights/index.html They have a lot to choose from and a fast turnaround time. If I remember correctly the Daly has Novak slide cuts.

I have a Rock Island no frills 5″ . I have fired it,striped it, clean and assembled. But today I can not get in back togeather.
I see on the internet(You tube) there are differant steps that people use but what is really confusing me is the round piece hanging off the barrel. Some people say It should hang strait down; some say it should be it should be pointed toward the spring.
I THINK I have always let it hang strait down. HELP!!

A good number of people have difficulty with that. The easiest way to deal with the barrel link is place the slide (assembled) on the slide rails as normal. Hold the pistol fairly level or slightly barrel down. As you run the slide back on the rails you watch through the hole in the frame the slide release fits into. This also locks the barrel link in place. Anyway, as you move the slide back you’ll see that hole in the barrel link lineup with the hole in the frame. Then you insert the slide release in the frame hole holding the gun steady and also pass the release through the hole of the barrel link. When the slide release is inserted all the way through continue moving the slide to the rear. Approx. 3/8th of an inch behind the notch the slide release locks into when shooting is a small indentation. At this point use your thumb to work the tab of the slide release into the square notch witch seats the slide release all the way in. Now the slide and frame are mated together by the slide release pin going through the barrel link. be careful when you work the rear of the slide release to get the slide release seated pushing it in be careful it doesn’t slip and mar the finish. After that you just use your bushing tool to turn the bushing locking it over the plug underneath. The plug needs to be depressed as you turn the bushing so you have clearence to lock the bushing in place.
If you look at the top of my homepage there is a link to videos that demonstrate this method. I hope this helps you and please let me know if you have any other problems.

A good number of people have difficulty with that. The easiest way to deal with the barrel link is place the slide (assembled) on the slide rails as normal. Hold the pistol fairly level or slightly barrel down. As you run the slide back on the rails you watch through the hole in the frame the slide release fits into. This also locks the barrel link in place. Anyway, as you move the slide back you’ll see that hole in the barrel link lineup with the hole in the frame. Then you insert the slide release in the frame hole holding the gun steady and also pass the release through the hole of the barrel link. When the slide release is inserted all the way through continue moving the slide to the rear. Approx. 3/8th of an inch behind the notch the slide release locks into when shooting is a small indentation. At this point use your thumb to work the tab of the slide release into the square notch witch seats the slide release all the way in. No the slide and frame are mated together by the slide release pin going through the barrel link. After that you just use your bushing tool to turn the bushing locking it over the plug underneath. The plug needs to be depressed as you turn the bushing so you have clearence to lock the bushing in place.
If you look at the top of my homepage there is a link to videos that demonstrate this method. I hope this helps you and please let me know if you have any other problems.

Hi Gunner,
I am about to purchase my first firearm, a RIA 1911 GI. I have seen the manual that accompanies the gun and it is a bit sketchy to say the least and the RIA website is minimal. I really respect the 1911 and want to take good care of it. I know there might be You Tube pieces about cleaning but I think I would do better with hard copy instructions. Do you have any suggestions?
Swannie

I love my RIA.45 can you tell me what is a good clip replacement for this gun? not sure exactly which model I have mine say’s on it M1911- A1FS ? can you tell me which model this is for me too? thanks love the blog great info…

The HiCap two tone and single stack two tone are both Tactical s with approx. 5 pound triggers. They can be purchased here— http://centerfiresystems.com/1911.aspx The second page has the Match version for $579.00 http://centerfiresystems.com/AC-RI1911MATCH-5.aspx
Centerfire Systems carries about the largest selection of RIA pistols. The triggers are good on all of them with the Match getting a bit more hand fitting.
The price of the standard match has gone down with the advent of the 2011 Match.

Just want to give you my thanks for the links to centerfire systems.Bought a RIA Match 1911 , held a RIA 1911 at the gun show this weekend.Felt real nice and solid.They wanted 489.00 which I thought was ridiculous. You should let people know out there that the shows are not a place to buy, @ least in my experience they are 15 to 20% higher in price. The last 3 shows I have gone to were the same,$14.00 ticket and $3-7.00 parking.Thanks again for the link will let you know how she shoots.

You are 100% correct on buying at shows especially that one. There simply are no deals to be had.The only gun shows you can find a descent price out are local shows put on by local people. They are much more likely to wheel and deal.
I’ll put something up about buying at gun shows—good idea really:-) Glad to help Bill and by all means let me know how it shoots.

Hope you do write something on the shows.489.00 was for a used 1911,the only thing people will find reasonably priced is the Beef Jerky.Shameful that people will try to rip others off that are not informed.Glad your out there write it up ,I’ll read it.

Gunner look forward to your write up on Gun Shows.Wanted to let you know about a local company EFK Fire Dragon Pistol Accessories.In no way am I affiliated with this Company other than being a satisfied customer.I have bought 2 Framesaver Dual Recoil springs for my Sig Sauer P226 & 1911, this product will reduce recoil by 40% .Makes my 1911 .45 feel like a 9 MM and my 9MM feel like a Walther P22(darn fine weapon) which allows my daughter to handle these pistols with minimal muzzle flip and comfortable felt recoil.Really nice family run Company with excellent products
and customer service.Just trying to do what my Daddy taught me, treat me good and I’ll treat you better treat me bad and I’ll treat you worse.Have a good one. Bill

I own just about every brand,caliber and size firearm. Im recently had to get rid of the majority of them except the few keepers. The 1911A1 38 super, doug koenig 45, FN 5.7,sig saur 556 swat classic, and a colt python. Im going 2morrow to start my collection again and been struggling on what to buy. I can not make up my mind. I know you cant go wrong with a glock, a sig. But I am stuck like chuck..Please HELP….

Since the waiting list is forever for Bar-Sto barrels these days,
I went with an Olympic NM grade drop-in barrel from Oquirrharms. Nice folks; barrels were back ordered so took a couple weeks to get it. Didn’t quite fit my CDHP as a drop in; took some minor filing along the bottom/sides of the barrel web where the lug drops down into the frame to get the gun to cycle manually. I like to use candle lamp black when doing this kind of work; you can easily see where any interference exists and you know exactly where material must be removed. Couple hours and I had the gun cycling well. I would say this barrel locks up with the slide with about 50% less play than the factory barrel. Chamber is not that much better but there is half the headspace. The crowning left something to be desired; there was a fine wire edge right where the rifling and the crown met; could acually catch the wire edge with a sharp pointed probe! Inspection under good lighting with my mag. glass confirmed this. Pretty poor quality control for a NM grade barrel in my opinion. But some careful filing with a very fine round file and crocus cloth took the edge right off and the transition between rifling and crown is clean. One good thing is that the barrel OD is about 0.005″ larger than the factory barrel OD (0.498″) which reduced the barrel/bushing clearance by 50%. Have not fired the gun yet but tomorrow we put it on paper. This is just more fun than laughing!
Cheers, Phil!

If you need another barrel I’d advise the Kart barrels. They are very good barrels with not so much of a wait time. They produce a lot of product unlike some of the smaller companies.

You did a darn good job fitting the barrel it sounds like. Using candle black is a great way to check fit. Simple, easy and you get an idea quickly where you are fit wise. I hate you had problems with the finish on the crown. That shouldn’t happen for the price you most likely paid or for any price really.

I have a RIA officers model 1911 I bought this weekend from a gun show. Absolutely love this gun but I am having some trouble getting a round into battery using the slide release during reloading after expending an empty magazine. I’m using brand new magazines and it seems to be a bigger issue using JHP. I think the feed ramp needs to be polished but I wanted your opinion before I took it to a gunsmith.

Well sir first and foremost I never use the slide release to charge the pistol. The best way is to grab the slide and pull it to the rear and release. You get a lot more speed on the slide which insures a better feed. I can’t remember the last time I used my slide release:-)To answer the other part of your question. I always buff the feedramp on my guns. It does help and it’s inexpensive and fast to have it done.
Enjoy that “Rock”
Phil

Most of the websites seem to assume that 1911 = .45ACP however I see some 1911’s chambered in other calibers including 9mm. (My wife like 9mm in her first visit to a shooting range last summer.) What size ammo do you recommend for 1911’s? Thank you.

I think the 45 acp is optimal for the 1911 but by no means is it the be all end all in ammunition for a 1911.I have an RIA in 9mm I carry frequently. I sure wouldn’t carry it if I didn’t have faith in the gun and the 9mm load I chose for it.For some women a 1911 in 9mm is a better choice. It just depends on how recoil sensitive they are but more importantly how accurate they are with the 45 acp. If you don’t hit the target then a 9mm is the choice to make.
To answer your question we got out of IL. and those crazy gun laws. Being a retired officer I could carry anywhere but Chicago. Even though federal law allows me to carry there the local powers said arrest any officer from somewhere else who is carrying. Enough is enough so we moved.
As long as the Chicago machine runs state government I can’t see a CCW law being passed in IL.

Certainly the used originals are available from places like Gunbroker.com. Here is a link to the current page of available Commanders.http://www.gunbroker.com/All/BI.aspx?Keywords=Colt+series+70+combat+commander
You’ll note that prices are in the near $1000 range. In order for an original Colt to be very reliable you would need to spend an additional $400 for a trigger job, reliability work etc. The original Colts were made primarily to shoot 230 grn. ball ammunition which is why this work is needed to function 100% with hollowpoint defensive ammunition.
If I were you and had to spend this amount for a used Commander I would rather purchase a new 1911 Commander style from a current quality company such as Springfield Armory, Smith & Wesson as well as several others. A lot depends on how much you want to spend.
If you would please comment again and let me know the price range you want to stay within I can be more specific on brands and models.
I’ll also email you directly to make it easier to communicate your 1911 preferences.

On cost $2,000 would be the most I find reasonable. Not looking for super tricked out model. Want supper reliability and durability. I will probably put 2500 3500 rounds a year through it. The impression I get is you can over do it.
Thanks for your thoughts,
Chris

I liked your review of the Charles Daly 45 Commander. I too think it is one of the better 45s I have owned, or shot for that matter.
I have a problem though. I cannot for the life of me field strip it. I bought the gun at a gun show so I am not certain about the gun. It came with a Charles Daly box and a manual for the 45 govt model. The manual describes a procedure for turning the barrel bushing. Problem is this particular gun has no barrel bushing. The recoil spring guide looks nothing like the one in the exploded view in the manual. It appears to have a full length guide rod.
From videos on Youtube I have seen the use of a paper clip to insert into a hole in the guide rod. Problem is there is no hole.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Love you site by the way.

Glad you like the blog! Well sir the Daly has a different setup than the Springfield Armory you saw on the video it does not have that small hole for the paperclip to hold things in place for disassembly.The Daly Commander didn’t come with a Bull barrel, somebody put this on after they purchased it. You might check with the place you bought it and see if they will put you in touch with the person who sold it to them and see if he has the original barrel and bushing.
The easiest way to take this model down is to remove the slide then remove the guiderod followed by the barrel. Now this can be a bit frustrating at times. You may spend a bit of time finding that sweet spot to release the guiderod so the barrel can be removed.Try and turn the rear of the guiderod as you lift up on it. It may take a few tries but it will work.Then simply lift the barrel out as you pull it up from the rear of the barrel. Now I’ve not tried this on a bull barrel but the first thing I usually do with a full length guiderod is get rid of it. I normally purchase a GI plug with to replace the guiderod. It makes it much easier to take down and really has no effect on accuracy. As I said I’ve never tried this on a bull barrel model so it may work or may not. Either way no harm done and the GI plug is very cheap and worth a try. It just depends on whether you want to keep it as is and spend some time messing with that guiderod each time you clean it. Another method I use is once the slide is off I try to pull the front of the spring back enough to release pressure allowing the guiderod to slip out fairly easy. Each gun is different so giving both methods a try will let you know which works best for you.
Of course this method isn’t the normal method but retracting the slide to the takedown notch and removing the slide release followed by removing the slide from the frame will work and won’t damage the pistol. I won’t kid you it can be a pain at times to get the guiderod out but keep at it and it will come out. Please let me know if you need any further help and I’ll help you get through it. I’ll email this to you so you’ll have my email to contact me.

hi i found your web site u have a fantastic site i love ithaca 1911s & mod 37s hope to find them on your site thanks for being here a guy in a chair got time on his hands sometimes. thanks 6 wheeled gunnut

I am retired Army and love to shoot.
I have a ROK 1911 in 9mm that I really like.

I am in the process of purchasing an ATI 1911 FX Thunderbolt enhanced. (manufactured by SAM in the Philippines). It has the following features: Adjustable 3-dot combat sights, ambidextrous safety, aggressive grip checkering, beveled magazine well, tactical accessory rail, compensated barrel porting. Will pick up the new 1911 in about two weeks as soon as I can stretch the last layaway payment out of my budget!
The pistol appears to be very well made with great tolerances.

I haven’t shot one yet but those I know who own one compare them to RIA’s. Coincidentally I have the compact double stack and a Titan from them on order for a review. In a few weeks I’ll most likely have something posted on them.
They certainly look nice and the Philippine companies do a good job on 1911’s.
I also have a ROK 9mm that I converted to 38 Super.

Picked up the pistol today…got impatient and decided not to wait. Should get to the range tomorrow afternoon. Looking forward to seeing how well it shoots. I’ll watch out for your continued pistol reviews. Thanks for the e-mail.

Spent about a hour at the range on Friday. Put 50 rounds through my new ATI 1911 FX Thunderbolt enhanced. Shot group out of the box was really excellent for my old eyes. First eight rounds were all in the 9-10 ring at 21 feet. No jams with the first 50 rounds. Several non-ejections after that. A good cleaning and lubrication cured that. Will watch and see what happens as I put more through this weapon. With the ported barrel and slide, recoil is reduced nicely and recovery of sight picture is rapid. Fun to shoot. Good workmanship and quality. Think the trigger will improve with time.

I usually lube new guns pretty wet until I have a couple of hundred rounds through them. It sure sounds great overall! I’ll be glad to get one of these for testing. Glad to hear the porting works well for you. Sounds like you have a winner there:-)

I have owned Marlin Firearms all my life. I am now 70 years old and I still have Marlin Firearms. What Ive heard recently about the quality of your products is more than depressing. I would like a response from your corporate office after reading this and watching the video. Id like to have a response in ten days.,,,or Im sending this video to my friends at the Pentagon

William I wish I could be encouraging on your efforts but the Pentagon has no connection with the group that owns Remington, Marlin etc. That and the Freedom Group that owns all these companies is for sale and it appears Taurus will own them before it’s all said and done.

What he says in the video is correct. Remington/Freedom Group bought Marlin and fired all the employees. All but the model 336 were dropped. Slowly they have brought models back but quality control still seems very lacking. You take people that have made a Marlin for 30 years or so then have new people make them there is no chance they can make as good a product.

I’ll be honest with you I doubt they will even acknowledge the letter you send. I do wish you the best of luck. I hate the situation as well. My first non single shot rifle was a model 39 before they called it the golden 39. That was in 1959. You and I are about 8 years apart so my passion for craftsmanship as we used to have is high. Now we have parts changers not gunsmiths. At least not in these huge companies.

Hello sir—well I can’t say I’ve had a chance to review one yet. We were just ok’d by Ruger to receive guns for articles.That’s over on The Firearm Blog.com. It won’t be long before I’ll review one.
Now I do know from those who have one they like them. They speak of the grip feeling good and pointing naturally.Recoil was a bit more than an all steel 1911 but not unpleasantly so. I hope that helps.

Got my first RIA and also my first 1911. So far I enjoy it and it shoots beautifully. I’m having feed issues with defensive ammo, though. It will chamber target just fine. But as soon as I put a hollow point in it, it jams between the slide and the breech holding the slide open. Is this common to 1911’s? Suggestions?

I would try a different brand/type of ammo. If that fails to solve the problem just call the main number at Armscor and talk with the gunsmith. He’s real old time gunsmith and he’ll have you send it to him. He’ll return it to you within a week completely tuned.

Hi Gunner ! It looks like I have the opportunity to purchase a Steyr M95 Mannlicher rifle made in Hungary. I can appreciate the nostalgic aspect of this weapon and would like to know what jour thoughts are on owning one . Being in Canada ammo is not easily available. I’ve been also eyeballing a Tokarev svt 40 7.62/54r as well. Which would you recommend ? Your expert opinion is appreciated. Sincerely, Paul Morton.

I’ve had to cut back a great deal on my writing here. I’m working full time as a writer for a gun publication. They keep me very busy. I do intend to start posting again before long. You’ll still get the post when I write something.