are you using AFM? do you run into stalling problems?
also how does your MR2 bpv differentiate between idle and gearchange? does it have to do with the fact that idling has a bit lower vacuum than gear change? so the spring is set at some 0.8bar or smth?

I'm using an AFM.
It stalled only a few times during the past year.
The stock BPV is a pull type, 2 chambers with a diaphragm, no spring.
It only opens when there is a change in pressure in the manifold. (from pressure to vacuum).
At idle, it stays shut without any possibility of leak.

Meurz said both 8mm and 4mm were needed, but didn't state just how long the length ares of each. I don't beleive the BOV I ordered comes with any hoses, so I was going to order matching silicone ones but they sell it by the foot.

hm, i installed HKS SQV (i guess the older version).
1)in last 5 days it stalled once. this is a problem since i very often put the gear into neutral, but if the revs are high (turbo has spooled high enough), it can stall due to overfueling. when it stalls, you cannot turn the steering wheel or press on brakes - imagine that on a fast corner!
2) when the cylinders are over fueled (AFR gauge reads absolutely LEAN btw, after i accelerate, it goes to rich ) and i put it in gear, first miliseconds it doesnt burn, and then there is a massive HIT when it explodes, and I can really feel/hear how it wants to destroy my torsen :/ maybe i should replace the torsen bushing.. BUT another test for this without even attaching the gearbox is - rev up to some 4500rpm in some 2nd or 3rd, release gas pedal,clutch neutral and press gas pedal (probably at some 3k rpm) while the SQV is still open and letting the air through - its possible to notice that it doesnt burn the first cycles since the fuel is too much, but then it burns with a massive hit. maybe its just a backfire, but im really worried about the damage to the engine..
i have bad syncrhos so i cannot switch fast - a lot of fuel gets into cylinders. so when i accelerate hard and switch gears, i try to lightly press or tap on gas to burn and minimize the overfueling

BriinumsBo wrote:hm, i installed HKS SQV (i guess the older version). 1)in last 5 days it stalled once. this is a problem since i very often put the gear into neutral, but if the revs are high (turbo has spooled high enough), it can stall due to overfueling. when it stalls, you cannot turn the steering wheel or press on brakes - imagine that on a fast corner!2) when the cylinders are over fueled (AFR gauge reads absolutely LEAN btw, after i accelerate, it goes to rich ) and i put it in gear, first miliseconds it doesnt burn, and then there is a massive HIT when it explodes, and I can really feel/hear how it wants to destroy my torsen :/ maybe i should replace the torsen bushing.. BUT another test for this without even attaching the gearbox is - rev up to some 4500rpm in some 2nd or 3rd, release gas pedal,clutch neutral and press gas pedal (probably at some 3k rpm) while the SQV is still open and letting the air through - its possible to notice that it doesnt burn the first cycles since the fuel is too much, but then it burns with a massive hit. maybe its just a backfire, but im really worried about the damage to the engine..i have bad syncrhos so i cannot switch fast - a lot of fuel gets into cylinders. so when i accelerate hard and switch gears, i try to lightly press or tap on gas to burn and minimize the overfueling

this is enough for me to stick with a plumb back system lol if i ever get my gt4 running

ok today i blocked off the vacuum line for sqv, and wow, i wont connect it back smooth gear changes are far more better than uncomfortable and scary ones but protecting turbo.. and i guess only SSQV can be recirculated not SQV, at least i see no way of removing the triangle insert and add a recirculation kit..

can anyone please confirm if the older HKS SQV (if i have it, no idea) can be routed back into intake? can you explain how the recirculating kit is attached? i guess its only for SSQV. maybe you have pictures of the kit? i cannot screw out the tri-star piece, it seems non-removable :/
here is a pic:

id really like to keep the blowoff, but the gearchange issue is way too bad..

i dont mean to ask silly questions but i really need to find this one out., so i bought my friend's bov yesterday and im ready to put it on to my 165. i have searched and found a lil bit of info. i know how to put it on already but i just need to know how to recirculate the air.

in this thread, the explanation is for 185 which tells the exact procedure. none is for 165. so if any1 have done this (i know for sure there is) please help. thanks!

on some thread about hooking up a boost gauge, they use the vacuum located at the back of the intake manifold.

but i look at it... and if you hook it up there, this line will be open??

idk guys im really confused. there is a lot of vacuum lines here and im afraid to open one for the bov recirculation cuz i might mess the whole entire vacuum system..