***VERY IMPORTANT****If you do not know much, or anything about Autocockers, do not do ANYTHING to the gun until you've fully read the manual, searched this forum, and more importantly, the Autocockers forum. Although this gun is NOT an autococker, it is an exact replica, and should be treated as such in regards to maintenance, repairs, etc etc.

Here is what I've come up with for the Drallion, by doing extensive SEARCHING. You know, like, clicking on this button

Prices were omitted due to them being dealer cost prices, and therefore priveldged information.

Instructions:

You need to take the small board from your TES and plug it into you new board. Here's what you will unplug:
New Board.
Unplug the battery from new board, and leave the battery plug from your old TES on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the on the new board.)
Unplug the trigger wire from the new board and plug it in on the eye board.(just remember where it went on the old TES board, so you won't get confused)
Best thing to do is unplug from one gun and plug in from the next. Take the LCD screen off of both to make this easier. If you have troubles PM "the trooper".

Issue of Full-Auto on the board, and its tourney-illegal nature: (thanks to godp777)

The Drallion comes with a button on the frame, that anytime during gameplay, you can press for full-auto firing. That makes the gun tourney, and I'm sure many fields illegal.

If you experience chopping, or double feeding:
(thanks to "disra")
"The gun seems to chop and doublefeed unless you set the dwell to .05ms or higher. The dwell is preset at 0ms and it doesn't keep the valve open long enough."

So what do you do? Up your dwell to at least .05ms (milliseconds), and see if that remedies your problem. If it does not, you can try this option:

Turn up your LPR a little, to make sure the bolt has enough pressure to move it back and forth. You may be thinking, "If I have the bolt pressure up, it may chop more!"... and you're right, it MAY. But the thing is, if the pressure isn't high enough to fully cycle the gun, it may still be high enough to pinch those misfed balls, so therefore if you turned DOWN your LPR, you're doing more harm than good. Turn up that LPR and see if your misfeeding problems go away.

GRIP FRAME:

Takes all standard Autococker grip frames. You could easily mod the Drallion to be a mechanical gun, but removing the electronics, and putting on a sliding or hinge trigger frame, and a 3way valve. With WGP front block pneumatics, and a WGP hinge frame, this drallion will look exactly like an Orracle

Thats all I can think of for now, post things you'd like added, and once I add them, just delete your post. You will be accredited.

Dave

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"Originally posted by paintmusician: Wow, you look like an extremly rich druglord, in other words, a ****ing savage"
"Originally posted by dholmblad: fatty, I want to be you when I grow up. I could see you hunting with your bare hands."

I hate the stock trigger! how can you walk that? I just got a checkit sweet spot stick trigger. Walking the trigger is fun...I can't do it really good on the drallion yet because I'm used to the 50g microswitch on my JT6, but that will soon change.
Has anyone seen the 03 autococker? It's the body as the 03 but with pneus in the front

hey Godp have you adjusted the trigger at all? I dont know how to do it

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"Originally posted by whitebait lol blur out naughty parts i dont think he could do it, imagine putting the hand cursor over ya moms snatch and rubbing. " "
"Originally posted by Rezguise Wow, you can't even figure out how to use a feature designed for impaired people. Just kill yourself. "
"Originally posted by Impulse_0 You know your post sucked when Oli Lang sigs it. "

Stock trigger is not adjustable, but if it works in a TES, it'll work in the Drallion. I know, cause I just converted mine last night, and modded the switch. My TES roxxorz

Dave

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"Originally posted by paintmusician: Wow, you look like an extremly rich druglord, in other words, a ****ing savage"
"Originally posted by dholmblad: fatty, I want to be you when I grow up. I could see you hunting with your bare hands."

So fatty, I have a question, with my new trigger, I can walk it, but not very easily... I want to mod the switch. How hard is it to get those pins out? I don't want to screw them up like I did with the frame pin!

Anyway, I love my drallion, I've played 6 games with it, kicked ***, and now there is a video coming with paint!

You need to mod the switch. Damn them for using pics and not screws, like the TES has. My TES switch mod was much easier (also 2nd time doing it).

You WILL scratch your frame when removing the switch pins, I would stake $1 on it. Its just one of those things that Dragun did to make our lives a pain in the but. If they used STANDARD pins, and not the flared ones, they'd come out and go in way easier, and hold out just fine.

They are pretty slick, eh? I prefer mine as a mech, I can shoot it damned fast.

Dave

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"Originally posted by paintmusician: Wow, you look like an extremly rich druglord, in other words, a ****ing savage"
"Originally posted by dholmblad: fatty, I want to be you when I grow up. I could see you hunting with your bare hands."

ok i am going to have to edit my website soon because i have been getting an insane amount of emails about the diode dohicky....so here it goes just go to radio shack and get the smallest diode they have there and that will work .....either look at the diodes or look for micro diodes some stores have stuff others don't....and just get the smallest they have....

putting a new microswitch will make the Drallion a lot faster, but the stock parts can't keep up. I noticed a huge difference putting on the SMC ram and a regular pump arm. I hate the stock arm that puts more weight buy using the adapter.

Originally posted by jim_dailey I tried doing this but when I looked, there was no jumper. I was under the impression I just took one that was there and moved it. I guess I'm wrong? Where can I get a the right size jumper for this?

Also, is it real auto or auto like on the TES which makes it just more responsive?

I didn't even use a jumper..i cut a piece of wire and stripped the ends and stuck it in..works fine.