New generation of designers take Milan centre stage

Facchinetti, Puglisi among those to conquer spotlight

(By Elisa Cecchi)
(ANSA) - Milan, February 25 - If fashion holds up a mirror
to society, the women's 2014 winter shows that wrapped up Monday
in Milan were a clear indication the time has come for new
talent to share the limelight with Italy's icons.

And as the youngest premier and government in Italian
history were sworn in on Saturday in Rome, a new generation of
leading Italian designers over the past few days have shifted
the focus on something fresh fashion has to offer, a new slant
on the way women can dress.

Milan shows, long accused of concentrating too much on
designers who have been at the forefront of fashion for decades,
this time gave plenty of big-league space to upcoming talents
under the new direction of Jane Reeve.

And the 30- and 40-somethings Alessandra Facchinetti for
Tod's, Fausto Puglisi, Andrea Incontri, Marco de Vincenzo,
Gabriele Colangelo, Stella Jean, Aquilano.Rimondi, alongside
Alessandro Dell'Acqua with his label N21 and Francesco
Scognamiglio, showed Italy's fashion future is in the making.
After spells at Gucci, Valentino and Pinko, Alessandra
Facchinetti designed her second ready-to-wear collection for
Diego Della Valle's Tod's, showing she can be as insightful a
fashion spokesperson for her generation as Stella McCartney or
Phoebe Philo at Céline.

With streamlined, superbly elegant yet woman-friendly
clothes, Facchinetti designed bold, sculptural silhouettes
balanced by the depth of motifs and fabrics - in particular
leather, which played a key role in the collection.

Striking looks included a crinkly, black patent-leather
peacoat and a creamy cape coat with leather cut as thin as
paper, striking the perfect balance between rigour and elegance.

Windowpane checks and lozenge patterns were offset by bold
colours in a palette embracing purple and light blue.

Rounding up the collection were statement accessories
including a must - flats ranging from ballerinas to moccasins, a
trademark of the label.

Stepping into womenswear with growing ease, Andrea Incontri
gave edge and an on-the-go appeal to his ladylike dresses and
coats with a Formula 1 theme for next fall.

His clothes had both a soft seductive appeal with knit
dresses and skirts as well as an aggressive touch with statement
zippers and glossed-up fabrics partly covered in plastic
coating.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are so taken by the
designer they are showcasing his collection in one of their
stores with space dedicated to upcoming talents.

Meanwhile French luxury groups, which have been tightening
their grip on Italian labels, are watching this new generation
of designers closely.

Fausto Puglisi, who hit the Milan shows only for the second
time this past week, is now the creative director of French
fashion house Ungaro.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua, who is winning over a growing number
of women with his sophisticated, artsy N21 line, will be
presenting his first collection for Rochas in Paris on Wednesday
after replacing Marco Zanini as creative director last
September.

French luxury group LVMH on Monday announced it was buying
a minority stake in the fashion brand of Marco de Vincenzo, 36,
known for his bold and innovative designs.

De Vincenzo has been showing his ready-to-wear label in
Milan since 2009, after winning Vogue Italia's "Who is on next"
talent competition.

Fashion duo Aquilano.Rimondi design their own line as well
as collections for Italian iconic fashion house Gianfranco Ferrè
and the ready-to-wear line of Fay.

Gabriele Colangelo, former creative director at Genny, and
Stella Jean are the two Italians who will be competing in the
semi-finals of the first edition of the LVMH prize for young
fashion designers, promoted by Delphine Arnault.

Jean, whose Milanese launchpad last season was the
prestigious Giorgio Armani theatre, has caught the attention of
the international fashion crowd with her unique mix of African
wax prints and Western staples including colourful tweeds and
natty Oxford shirts.

Massimo Giorgetti's MSGM first hit the spotlight in 2008
with its clashing prints and cult reinterpretation of the Chanel
jacket.

Next fall, the label will be stretching its style to new
heights with Giorgetti's sapient mix of clashing prints and more
polished looks.
The Au jour le jour brand started four years ago by Mirko
Fontana and Diego Marquez with its funky cartoon-like prints
also debuted at the Armani theatre while the Italian designer
loved by Madonna and Lady Gaga, Francesco Scognamiglio, is
planning to present a couture line in Paris.

Last but not least, Massimiliano Giornetti and Gaia
Trussardi - at the helm of two of Italy's preeminent houses,
Ferragamo and Trussardi respectively - are exploring the many
notes of luxury to test new ground.