As it appears to be that i have mounts for 180-180 then that's the new braking setup.
Couldn't get the caliper to sit right with the 160 mounts and tried some spacers to align it, but no joy.
Need some 180 rotors now.
Did double check and upto 200m is fine on the Monkey.

Spent the afternoon cleaning and servicing the Hope levers, really gunked up. One hose needs trimming down to cut out some damage at the cylinder. But it's looking good.
Will most likely just stick with standard steel M4 rotors.

Your saddle looks to be very far back on its rails. This can cause them to bend or break due to the excessive leverage the position creates. That VO post has more offset then most posts and should clamp closer to the center of the rails (while maintaining the same position).

I'm not sure the VO seatpost is long enough for a KM. It's my understanding that on an MTB you want the seatpost to extend past the top-tube/seatstay junction and the VO just isn't that long. I've got one and it's a great seatpost but not long enough for my KM.

I'm jonesing for a b+ bike, and the km looks to be a viable candidate. Through what I'm showing as 61 pages in this thread, there's been a couple posts sporadically, but my only concern is bb height. Those of you still on the train think it's passable? My googlefu is a little weak, I haven't been able to find any data on the height rolling on b+ hoops.

I'm jonesing for a b+ bike, and the km looks to be a viable candidate. Through what I'm showing as 61 pages in this thread, there's been a couple posts sporadically, but my only concern is bb height. Those of you still on the train think it's passable? My googlefu is a little weak, I haven't been able to find any data on the height rolling on b+ hoops.

You can calculate it pretty easy:

Radius of 650B x 3" = 372mm

BB drop of KM = 68mm

372 - 68 = 30.4cm BB height.....approximately (vs 30.2 for 29 x 2.1")

Trail would be 79mm (vs 78 for 29 x 2.1")

So, a 650B+ KM should handle just about like a stock KM. Not too shabby!

So, like a c-hair higher than 29/2.3, according to my google. Respectable.
As long as it's "close enough" I think I'll be good.

I would still try to find some people who've done it, just to make sure. These numbers may not be 100% because it's all based off that tire/wheel radius which can vary. I know people have made the conversion so they are out there.

Your saddle looks to be very far back on its rails. This can cause them to bend or break due to the excessive leverage the position creates. That VO post has more offset then most posts and should clamp closer to the center of the rails (while maintaining the same position).

Good eye. I haven't ridden the bike yet. I like to start with the saddle all the way back on the rails and adjust as appropriate. I'll keep that seatpost in mind.

I'm not sure the VO seatpost is long enough for a KM. It's my understanding that on an MTB you want the seatpost to extend past the top-tube/seatstay junction and the VO just isn't that long. I've got one and it's a great seatpost but not long enough for my KM.

Thanks for the heads up. If there is a seatpost that has more offset than the VO then I haven't encountered it. I like a lot of offset, so I've been looking.

Didn't have a spare 9spd shifter, so got a deore coming, as 9spd deore rear mechs are cheap, got one of those over the older Tiagra road mech i had spare. Some 180mm shimano rotors, couple of chains and as continental 29er tubes where 1/2 price grabbed some spares as well as the local shops are all full RRP on tubes, so stocking up, make the most of the next day shipping charge.

Will try and rebuild the BB today and fit that, treat the inside of the frame, get the forks and headset back on and rummage around for bars and stems and posts to play with.

Daylight.
Reshimmed the calipers for better rotor sweep over the pads, added 1.5mm shims, much better.
Way cheaper than going full Hope again, also the new Shimano rotors are a bit lighter than the older worn Hope one i have, not sure how long they will last but at 1/3 the price of standard Hopes, really not worried

Daylight.
Reshimmed the calipers for better rotor sweep over the pads, added 1.5mm shims, much better.
Way cheaper than going full Hope again, also the new Shimano rotors are a bit lighter than the older worn Hope one i have, not sure how long they will last but at 1/3 the price of standard Hopes, really not worried

Hipflask/Aherene cage/bolts =171g
If i swap from the DH spec DMR swarm stem and Wingbars to a DMR headstock stem and EA50 bars i loose another 216g
Swapped an inner tube dropped another 100g
If i buy a new seat clamp collar i can drop another 20 there.
A lot of Alu stem spacers, i have a 25mm stack of carbons at 9g, so swap out, trim the steerer should drop another 50g there.
possibly another 10g with Alu bolts i only used rough old cable outer to get the right length for the gears and have some posh Gore cables (lighter)
Not weighed yet as drying, washed the mud and dirt off..... swapping to Conti CX tyres should get me under 10kg......maybe......

i was just busting chops...
im thinking of getting another karate monkey frame and the mechanics at the shop were saying i should get a nice carbon fiber frame and have an actual lightweight rig but to me that just means i would have to ride it fast and then i would have to start racing and that just sounds like too much work...its supposed to be fun...not that going fast isnt fun,just not all the time...
plus i get the satisfaction when i put in a good time that im doing it on my heavy ass steel bikes and that adds an extra savor....

nice thing about a surly,its easy to make it your bike,unlike anyone elses...

Serious crowd tonight
After studying weights, i can drop under 10kg with what i have in the parts bin, beyond that it gets silly and spend some money.
Might work out a DH spec weight and XC weight as i weighed all the things

I've thought about investing in some wide 650B wheels so I can mount the Compass 48mm tires for street riding. Their 700c tires max out at 38mm and often come out to 35'ish mm actual width, which is narrower than I prefer.

I did an experiment this morning and put some 32mm Vittoria Hyper tires on my KM to see how I would like it and basically, I didn't. The bike felt twitchy and over responsive to me. I guess I like the big pneumatic trail of wide tires.

My reference point is 40mm Schwalbe Duremes and most of my miles on the KM are on those tires. But they are slow.....at least that's my perception after riding other tires.

I briefly rode some 50mm Marathon Supremes and the inverted tread created a "buzz" that I didn't care for.

Next I rode some 60mm Big Apples. Those are the tires that convinced me my 40mm Duremes are slow. But, I think the 60mm BA's are too wide for my Dyad rims.