YOU ARE GOING TO LOVE CARTAGENA! I can’t imagine anyone not liking the city. You may be worried about visiting this city in Colombia, pero usted no tiene que ser. Especialmente si usted se encuentra en el casco antiguo de Cartagena. Es realmente un lugar maravilloso, here’s why:

Cartagena is the safest city in Colombia.

No es una trampa para turistas. I was there November/December and although the tourists were there, it was not overcrowded like Venice.

The locals frown on public drunkenness and are not afraid to put misbehaved tourists in their place (this is quite entertaining when it happens). This means that while you can party and have a great time, usted no necesita preocuparse por los turistas desagradables o locales.

Cartagena is not perfect. It has plenty of issues, but even with the negatives I left ready to go back. I’ll walk you through some of the coolest spots in the old town (there will be other blogs for other neighborhoods), and give you some tips for your trip to Cartagena Colombia (they’re at the bottom of this post – so scroll if you’re in a rush).

Guía de Cartagena casco antiguo

Es probable que si se dirigen a Cartagena, pasará la mayor parte de su tiempo en elCiudad Vieja (the old town). This is where most tourists spend their time, and it is easy to see why. El casco antiguo y elCiudad Murallada (walled city) is a treasure trove of Colonial architecture, churches, gorgeous mansions, amazing shopping, and history. I loved the old city and spent plenty of time there…I could have spent even more and plan to quite soon. Cartagena is a very inexpensive travel location if you do it right.

San Pedro Claver, a Spanish Jesuit priest and missionary devoted his life and work to the African slaves of Cartagena

A BRIEF HISTORY OF CARTAGENA

You probably noticed if you googled “Cartagena” that a Spanish city pops up from time to time. Esta es la ciudad que dioLa Heroica her name, y la razón por Cartagena se conoce comoCartagena de Indias.Prior to the arrival of the Spanish in 1533, Cartagena was inhabited by the Karib, Malibu and Arawak. Spaniards came and took over. Cartagena’s location on the Caribbean made it an important trading post (many slaves were put to horrible fates here) and a great place for profit for the Spanish. This, a su vez lo hizo atractivo para los rivales de España. El español tenía que protegerse y construyó elCastillo San Felipe de Barajas. El español tuvo su suelo y la iglesia católica se apoderó de la ciudad. Cartagena estaba en un punto en un centro de la Inquisición de las Américas. En 1821 Simón Bolívar liberó la ciudad del comienzo de la historia moderna de España y Cartagena.

Cartagena, known as La Heroica, is a city of protective fortresses and cannons that served to protect its citizens from pirates of the Caribbean such as Francis Dranke and John Hawkins.

THE OLD CITY OF CARTAGENA

The old city is more than just the walled city…but it’s small enough that you can walk it all in one day night (you’ll end up heat stroked or sunburned if you attempt this during the daytime). There are three main neighborhoods in the old city: San Pedro, San Diego and Getsemani. San Pedro was where the rich people lived. San Diego was for the working people, and Getsemani has now become the hippest neighborhood after being known for being the place for prostitution. Cartagena values its travel dollars, so you should be safe all over the old city. At no point did I feel threatened and we had no bad experiences with thieves or pick pockets. There are always people on the streets and I had no issues at all. Habiendo dicho eso, no seas estúpido e ir haciendo alarde de dinero, cellphones, or jewelry. Have fun, pero precavido y que estará bien.

¿QUÉ VER EN CARTAGENA DE LA CIUDAD VIEJA

Plaza San Pedro Claver in Cartagena, Colombia is filled with colorful buildings.

Plaza de San Pedro Claver (1575-1612) – You’ll know you’re there when you begin to see some charming metal sculptures of people doing what Colombian people do: getting a haircut, playing games, etc.. These were made by sculptor Eduardo Carmona. Then you will notice a large sculpture of a man of the cloth in conversation with a slave. As I mentioned before, La economía de Cartagena fue impulsado por el comercio de esclavos. Claver era un sacerdote jesuita español que bautizó y esclavos proselitismo que llegó desde África. Se consideraba el defensor de los esclavos y fue canonizado en la década de 1800. The church dedicated to him is a Cathedral in the Italian style and totally worth a visit (especially since it’s pretty cool in there). También hay un museo donde se puede aprender más acerca de la historia de Cartagena y la trata de esclavos que se construyó la ciudad. At this plaza, usted encontrará a menudoPalenqueras selling fruit (perfect respite from the heat – watermelon, pineapple, papaya) and homemade sweets like cocadas. If you want to take a picture of or with a Palenquera, it is customary to make a small purchase beforehand. Heck, those internet points you win on instagram mean nothing to you, but the dollar you pay for that delicious watermelon will make a difference in their lives. You can also sneak into the Modern Art Museum to get a little shade.

Gertrudis or “La Gordita” was sculpted in Bronze by Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero.

Plaza Santo Domingo – This is one of the most touristy spots in the city. Plaza Santo Domingo is located a block away from Plaza Bolivar. It is made up of the Iglesia de Santo Domingo and a bunch of restaurants that offer outdoor seating. This means that a bunch of young ladies will all work hard to sell you on going to the restaurant they represent. There are a few things I particularly liked about this plaza. Primero, la Iglesia de Santo Domingo desde mediados de los años 1500. The church is a popular wedding location, we must have seen a different wedding every night we were there. This plaza is also quite popular for dance troupes, so you get some very inexpensive “dinner & a show”. Just make sure to have a little cash to donate to the performers. Finalmente, as a good Colombian should, Me enamoré conGertrudis.Who is she? She’s La gordita de Fernando Botero, artista visual más conocido de Colombia. This Rubenesque reclining nude is made of bronze…it is said that if you rub her breasts, she will bring you luck in love.

This sculpture was erected in honor of the visit by Pope John Paul II to Cartagena

Plaza Bolivar – This plaza is always full of people, both tourists and locals. A few spots here deserve their own write up, so they will get it. The plaza surrounds the equestrian statue of Simon Bolivar, de América Latina de George Washington. Grab a seat, buy a fresh coconut and sip it under a tree. At night time, enjoy the nightly dance shows and live concerts. Si usted está en los museos, check out the Cartagena Gold Museum (tiny, but free to enter). You can also check out the Museum of the Inquisition which has tons of torture devices and more gruesome items. The Cathedral of Cartagena is a nice place to cool down…and if you so wish, check out the sculpture dedicated to Pope John Paul II from his 1986 visit.

This torture device, Tenedor llamada de un Hereje, is a double sided bifurcated piece of metal placed between the breast bone and the throat. If you fell asleep, it would pierce you awake.

The Teatro Adolfo Mejia , now known as the Teatro Heredia was constructed by Luis Felipe Jaspe who also created the Clock Tower

Plaza San Diego – Pasé demasiado tiempo aquí, sobre todo porque las chicas de laarepa con huevostand make the best ones in the city. I think I had one every other day. Seriously – these women are the best in the city, so do not miss them. I loved the square mostly because although there were plenty of tourists in this plaza, se podía sentir la energía de la gente del lugar. Tomar un asiento en la plaza, enjoy your arepa con huevo and enjoy the music from local musicians ranging from kid rappers, to guitar trios playing boleros, to amateur violinists. Cuando esté listo para seguir adelante, hit up the Institute of the Arts and Sciences, check out las Bovedas, and the Teatro Heredia.

Plaza de la Aduana in Cartagena known for administrative buildings, lights up during the Christmas season

The Clock Tower & Plaza de La Aduana – There are many tiny entrances into the walled city, its most famous is the Puerta del Reloj o Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower). As you go under the clock tower, you will see many artisanal crafts for sale. Tienen un precio lo suficientemente bien, por lo que es un buen tiempo para ayudar a la economía local. Una vez que usted pasa por la torre del reloj va a estar en elPlaza de los Coches.Yes, you can pick up a carriage ride, but I find them inhumane (many of the horses are ridiculously skinny, and the carriages are made of heavy materials unlike those in New York). Ladies, you are not princesses, stop making believe you are. A quick walk from here, usted encontraráPlaza de la Aduanadonde Cristóbal Colón destaca triunfalmente sobre La India Catalina. Tengo tantos problemas con este monumento, but it does tell you a lot about the history of the city and Latin America. Walk a little more, y usted se encontrará enPlaza San Pedro Claver.

It’s pegasi – enough said.

Muelle del Pegaso en Cartagena de Indias – As you walk out of the city center through the clock tower, you will encounter the Muelle del Pegaso(dock of the Pegasus) which connects the Center of the old city to Getsemani. Está decorado con varias esculturas pegaso, y se sienta en compañía del Centro de Convenciones y el Camellón de los Mártires. It was a lovely spot in December, especially at night when the area would be lit up and vendors sold arepas con queso, cerveza and other treats to locals. A menudo se oía música y entretenido por artistas de la calle. One night, nos encontramos con el Festival de Pasteles en el Parque Centenario. This was an awesome event. Se corrió toda una semana y localespastelmakers competed for the title of the best Pastel of Cartagena. Their pasteles are quite similar to Tamal tolimense. I was in heaven. We went back twice, ate like pigs and had an amazing time. If you want to take a trip to Isla Rosario, you can grab a boat here, but we recommend that you plan this out ahead. A day trip is not worth it. If you head out to Islas Rosario, take at least 3 Días.

Maria Mulata (Mexican grackle) is the official bird of Cartagena, this is one amongst various public art pieces dedicated to her.

Getsemani – This is now the hippest barrio in Cartagena. It is where independence was first declared and has recently seen a renaissance. It was once known for prostitution, seedy stores and clubs. Ahora, it is a lovely neighborhood with stunning graffiti and street art, killer restaurants, and is definitely a home for the local Cartageneros. We were there during December and on our nightly walks, nos gustaría ver toda la gente de la vecindad en la iglesia local a cantar la novena. There were ton of restaurants, bars, and clubs.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas – Sorry Cartagena, but you gotta up the ante here. This is a stunning site, pero que se está perdiendo un montón de oportunidades aquí. de Lisboa Castillo de San Jorge es patear el culo cuando se trata de castillos defensivos y no es porque el suyo es mejor, but because they understand how to use the space to envelop tourists in history and lore. Estoy físicamente activo y saludable, and I am a huge history buff…and I did not find this to be the most pleasant experience. The site itself is impressive, but the tourism board is missing out on many opportunities to make money while making visitors happy. Go, but make sure to wear sunscreen (bring extra). Wear sneakers, there is no way up, but walking. Make sure to wear a hat as there are no places to hide from the sun (unless you head into the bovedas – not the most comforting spots around), and make sure to bring a few frozen water bottles. The only shop is all the way at the top of the Castillo, by the time you get there, you will be heat stroked. Cartagena could create a better experience by setting up rest spots (tables, chairs, and umbrellas), guides throughout to talk to you about the history. They could also set up learning centers within the castillo (or at least more signs). Finalmente, their gift shop sucks. Nice people there, Pero todo es Nick nacks. That would be the perfect spot to have a small wine/beer/frituras bar and a little music. Lisbon does this, and they do it quite well.

The Parque de La Marina in Cartagena Colombia is part of the National Armada

CARTAGENA TRAVEL TIPS

Sun Protection: The Caribbean sun can be unforgiving. Make sure to wear sunscreen and a hat. Even though I wore SPF 30 on a daily basis, I ended up with a little skin damage. You can also carry around bottles of water, but stuff is so cheap there, I would just buy it on the street.

Carry small bills: Local vendors (and taxi drivers) will try to get as much out of you as possible. Asegúrese de llevar el cambio para que no terminen pagando de más por los bienes y servicios.

Stay away from the Emerald Shops: Colombia has great emeralds, but this is not the place to purchase them.

Do eat on the street: Look for women and men with bags filled with Styrofoam containers. Salen alrededor 11 and will yell “ALMUERZO”. That means lunch. These lunches cost a mere $2USD and usually include coconut rice (yummmy), a green salad, and a protein that can be chicken, or pork. So freaking good. Then grab yourself a coconut from a street vendor to wash it down with.

Wear White: White reflects heat, so you will stay much cooler. Además, this is the favorite color of the locals, so you will stick out less.

Dress nicely: Los colombianos no usar zapatillas de deporte, and while Cartagena is more relaxed than say Bogota or Medellin, if you wear sneakers or flip flops you will totally stick out. At night time, step up your game. Gentlemen can wear white linen pants with a nice shirt, and ladies can wear a nice Summer dress.

THINGS TO EAT IN CARTAGENA

Arepas con queso are Cornmeal and cheese cakes found on the streets of Cartagena

These are not listed in any particular order…but you cannot leave Cartagena without trying these lovely dishes:

Arepa Con Huevo: My absolute favorite type of arepa. Find the arepa ladies at Plaza San Diego. There are others in the city, but these are better than any restaurant or stall in town. Estas arepas se hacen de harina de maíz, and filled with spiced ground beef and deep fried. Once they cook, they are filled with two eggs and fried again. They are possibly my most favorite indulgence (and they are super cheap). Estoy un poco babeo en este momento.

Arepa Con Queso: These arepas are thick cheese & cornmeal cakes that are grilled (on butter) and topped with more butter and cheese. Son acre, delicious, caloric and damn good with a beer. The best ones were at the carts of el Camellón de los Martires.

Pasteles Cartageneros: I may have loved these because they were so much like Tamales Tolimenses (I may get hurt next time I go to Cartagena for saying this). Ellos son abundantes, delicious, and one is enough for two – but I’ve been known to polish one off on my own. They are made or cornmeal which is filled with pork, chicken, beef and a few veggies. La mezcla se envuelve en una hoja de plátano y se hierve. If you go in December, preguntar lugareños acerca de laFestival de Pasteles.Continúa durante una semana y usted tendrá la oportunidad de probar los pasteles de mejores Pasteleros de la ciudad.

Limonada de Coco: Oh yeahhhh…there are few things better in the sweltering Cartagena heat than a delicious Coconut Lemonade. No estoy seguro de qué demonios hacer para que esto de manera muy buena, but I was ordering these at every restaurant in town.

Fruit: Fruit is freakin’ delicious in Colombia and Cartagena has a bounty of it. You can get anything from pineapple, papaya, guava, uchuva, nispero, granadillas and much more. If you want to try a good variety, dirigirse a una de las plazas y comprar una ensalada de lapalenqueras.It will cost you very little and you will get a taste of one of each of the fruits at her table.

Ceviche: Estás en la playa. You better eat seafood. Cuando se trata de ceviche que tienes un montón de opciones. You can go to La Cevicheria, but if you really want the Cartagena experience, you need to head to Avenida Venezuela (between the walled city & Getsemani) and check out the Ceviche stands. ceviche increíble por alrededor de $ 2 USD.Sólo recuerde que pedir, sin la salsa de tomate o salsa rosada.Colombians love ketchup on their fish and I find this to be a sacrilege…just something to keep in mind.

Arroz con Coco: You will be hooked and beg for the recipe. Coconut rice here is served at almost every meal. It’s made with real coconut and panela (basically pure unrefined cane sugar). It somehow works with main courses. Especially fried fish.

Fried Fish: The fried fish in Cartagena is delicious. Most restaurants will offer whatever is the catch of the day. When you eat it, make sure to relish on the fins. Fried fins taste better than potato chips.

No sickness from food for me either trip to Colombia (been sick in Mexico). I was told to stay away from shellfish and “street” food at the beach (and I did – so I would not chance that). arepas, Fruta, etc han estado bien, incluso de vendedores ambulantes en la ciudad. All the ceviche I’ve had has been fish (no shellfish).

I just want to say you write some of the best travel articles I have ever seen! So much detail and each one truly makes me want to go to every place you write about! The grackle wall painting is gorgeous and those cakes look fantastic!

It’s really wonderful. There is such a mix of cultures in Cartagena from all the mixing that happened when it was a major port. And now, there is so much food and art…and the beaches. I highly recommend a visit.

Oh Bianca I wish I could! I have a baby son and my wife is pregnant with the second. I’m so happy, but I don’t know when we will be able to travel that far (we live in Europe) with 2 kids 🙂 But I do know still all dreams some time come true. Catagena is waiting for me 😉

Congratulations to your family! It is definitely a lot more challenging traveling with kids (and Cartagena is quite far from Europe), but you still have amazing beaches here. I’m a big fan of Croatia & France’s beaches. Actually, the water is much nicer there than it is in Cartagena.

I cannot believe that water in the Mediterranean sea is nicer than in the Caribbean. 😉

You see, I’m a romantic soul… I was in Dominicana 4 years ago during my honeymoon. This trip was one of the most unforgettable in my life. I lied on the beach under the palms reading Christopher Columbus’s diaries and felt like I live 500 years ago and a part of their expedition. Felt like I stepped for the first time onto the ground of the unknown New World (Dominicana (Espaniola) was the first site of the permanent settlement of the Europeans).

I felt the spirit of that epoch. I’m not saying European settlers were angels, of course there were much greediness and cruelty towards the local inhabitants that were turned into slaves and killed massively. But I am sure there were at the same time many people of honor and nobility who tried to stop all the cruelty. Those times were harsh, and now it all part of the history…

I don’t know why, but I tend to romanticize those times and want to visit all New World cities full of that colonial spirit… and Cartagena is one of them. 🙂

Depends on where in the Caribbean. Puerto Rico has gorgeous waters in Culebra and Vieques. En Colombia, for gorgeous water, I’d recommend going to San Andres (although it’s gotten very touristy) or Rosario Islands (just make sure that when you go you plan ahead. The waters are lovely, but most tours & boats going out there don’t give the best experiences). The water in Cartagena proper is definitely not up to par.

Love that you’re into history. I’m currently reading Shogun. I love imagining what life was like back then. How were the diaries?

When it comes to the colonial spirit, Cartagena absolutely has it. It’s a lovely place (which is why I go back quite often), so I definitely recommend it 😉

PD. By the way, Blanca, I’m working on a travel blog at the moment where I would like to feature South America & Caribbeans.

Do you have any great writer (local or non local but living there) with perfect English who would like to write for a blog? Or maybe you personally would like to do this (but I suspect you are quite busy). Also I would like to find a pro photographer who would supply me with authentic colorful photos. I couldn’t find your email anywhere so I post my question to you here (if you don’t mind).

Lo siento, no en contacto con usted antes, just got over the flu. I don’t know a writer off the top of my head, but check out the travel blogger groups on Facebook. There are tons of bloggers there always looking to collaborate 🙂

Have to disagree with your comment on sickness. Just came back after a few days in Cartagena after catching a taxi back to Santa Marta ($200 later) as I was too sick to catch the bus. My son had been ill two days prior to that. We are not newbie travellers and have travelled through Africa, Asia, Europe, India and Mexico with four kids for the past 20 years and have never been sick like that before. I think its true to say you can get sick in any country or any place either from food preparation, cooking time, food storage or just cleanliness in food handling. While we have found no problems in Santa Marta for the past few weeks we definitely did twice in Cartagena.

I’m so sorry to hear you got sick. Were you able to narrow down where exactly it happened? And yes, you can get sick in any country – but I find Colombia has better systems than Mexico when it comes to food safety. I can’t believe they charged you $200 for a taxi. I know it’s expensive but I feel like $150 should have been the max.

Hi Bianca! I was visiting Cartegena a few weeks back and fell in love with some street art that was being sold by a store a few feet away from gelato Paradiso on Calle 36. Would you happen to know how I can contact the store to see if paintings are still available? Thank you!!