User Reviews (1)

Showing 1-1 of 1

steel_3d
Weekend Warrior [Oct 31, 2009]

Strength:

cheap

Weakness:

horrible bearings

came assembled way too tight, they'd barely spin, and the bearings were grindy. i would not run them like this. loosened up the end nuts and took hours to dial in the bearings. the outer race nut is a 15mm but no 15mm socket was slim enough to fit inside the pedal. so i dicked around with a 14mm kinda spinning the race nut just with friction. getto. try not to back off the race nut too much or you'll be stuck poking the balls back in place with a paper clip or needle. i finally figured out the trick:

-take off the 12mm lock nut
-set the race nut where you feel minimal resistance. this is the point where the bearing is at ideal tension - no binding and no play. verify this by spinning and jiggling the shaft.
-hold the socket steady and back off the shaft just less than 1/4 turn
-now when you tighten the lock nut normally the bearing should spin freely. if the bearing's binding at all, start over and adjust the "just under 1/4 turn" setting to a little more
-if there's a tiny bit of play left adjust with extra tension on the lock nut.
-if there's still any play left start over and adjust the "just under 1/4 turn" setting to a little less.

the bearings are crap quality, so they never quite spin perfectly smooth or have zero play. i have a few spots of very slight binding and one spot of tiny play. good enough for 13 bucks. they're not sealed either, so we'll see how they last. again, 13 bucks :) only reason i give em 3 chilis

OVERALLRATING

3

★★★★★

★★★★★

VALUERATING

4

★★★★★

★★★★★

steel_3d Weekend Warrior

[Oct 31, 2009]

Strength:

cheap

Weakness:
horrible bearings

came assembled way too tight, they'd barely spin, and the bearings were grindy. i would not run them like this. loosened up the end nuts and took hours to dial in the bearings. the outer race nut is a 15mm but no 15mm socket was slim enough to fit inside the pedal. so i dicked around with a 14mm kinda spinning the race nut just with friction. getto. try not to back off the race nut too much or you'll be stuck poking the balls back in place with a paper clip or needle. i finally figured out the trick:

-take off the 12mm lock nut
-set the race nut where you feel minimal resistance. this is the point where the bearing is at ideal tension - no binding and no play. verify this by spinning and jiggling the shaft.
-hold the socket steady and back off the shaft just less than 1/4 turn
-now when you tighten the lock nut normally the bearing should spin freely. if the bearing's binding at all, start over and adjust the "just under 1/4 turn" setting to a little more
-if there's a tiny bit of play left adjust with extra tension on the lock nut.
-if there's still any play left start over and adjust the "just under 1/4 turn" setting to a little less.

the bearings are crap quality, so they never quite spin perfectly smooth or have zero play. i have a few spots of very slight binding and one spot of tiny play. good enough for 13 bucks. they're not sealed either, so we'll see how they last. again, 13 bucks :) only reason i give em 3 chilis