Electronics Parts

Shop With Confidence

SGR341AQ2 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SGR341AQ2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota. Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500. Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right! Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!

dryer would make a sound when the button was pushed but no response from the unit

I read your suggested test to determine where the problem was that was making the machine not start.Got part . Took off back control panel. I put the part on as your instructions guided me . SUCCESS!I set the timer and pushed the button and the dryer began turning immediately.

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit. 4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose. 6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out. 7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them. 10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out. 11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide. 13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing. 15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier. 16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide. 17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door. 18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

clothes were getting stuck

after numerous holes put in my families clothes i looked on line and found "partselect.com". i ordered the front drum glide after seeing a similar story about the clothes being torn and getting caught and my family and i have our new dryer back!! yeah :

My wife was able to easily do the repair before I could get home from work to do it. She watched the PartSelect video on her iPad as she did the necessary steps to get the belt replaced. We only needed one glide replacement, as one was still attached and intact. We should have purchased both sets of felt seal replacements, though that wasn't as urgent.My wife thought the repair was quite easy overall.

Broken Door Strike

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

heat would initially come on then go off or sometimes not come on at all.

1. unpluged the dryer and turned off the gas.2. pulled dryer out so i'd have ample room to work on it. 3. used large flat blade screwdriver in the front between the top lid and dryer face to gently pop-up the lid.4. removed 4 screws from inside, that hold the face to the main box leaving the wires all intact. Found the coils on the lower left, held in place by two screws and plate. 5. took a good look at thier orientation before unpluging old and installing new, I recommend one at a time.6. Vacuumm any exceess lint and check foam seal between lint trap and exhuast duc, the glue came undone on mine causing extra lint dust that is potentially flamable. 6. screw dryer front back on to main box, make sure to check wiring harness and that all electrical blade connectors are still pluged in to their componants. 7. At this point plug in, turn on gas and do a test run. 8.if everything checks out good then lower top make sure flexable exhuast hose is still connected on hte back of the dryer. 9. Tell your wife or girlfriend or husband or boy friend they can now finish your laundry :)

Dryer wasn't heating

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

replaced broken belt

Romoved front from dryer . Then loosened tub , slid belt on , reached in back and put belt on pulley , turned tub till belt went into place and reassembled dryer all with the help of a 3 year old and an8 year old,so in my oppinion it was one of the easiest fixes i've ever done!

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

dryer door wouldnt close

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!