My Norwegian is a little rusty to reply in Norwegian, but it is important for me that I get the composition right. I don't always manage it, but I liked how this turned out after the panic trying to get a good vantage point without trees in the way. For me, a B&W has to have a full tonal range and I'm not happy if my conversion is high key, even if it works for other people. I'm yet to print this one, but a similar image with less mist works really well printed in colour, as the mountain on the right is bathed in the warm dawn sunlight, although that is slightly obscured by the mist in this one. I try to build my style on a combination of composition and light, whenever I can.One day I would like to return to Oslo and photograph what I should have done while living there, but it was in the long period without doing any photography.

My Norwegian is a little rusty to reply in Norwegian, but it is important for me that I get the composition right. I don't always manage it, but I liked how this turned out after the panic trying to get a good vantage point without trees in the way. For me, a B&W has to have a full tonal range and I'm not happy if my conversion is high key, even if it works for other people. I'm yet to print this one, but a similar image with less mist works really well printed in colour, as the mountain on the right is bathed in the warm dawn sunlight, although that is slightly obscured by the mist in this one. I try to build my style on a combination of composition and light, whenever I can.One day I would like to return to Oslo and photograph what I should have done while living there, but it was in the long period without doing any photography.

My Norwegian is a little rusty to reply in Norwegian, but it is important for me that I get the composition right. I don't always manage it, but I liked how this turned out after the panic trying to get a good vantage point without trees in the way. For me, a B&W has to have a full tonal range and I'm not happy if my conversion is high key, even if it works for other people. I'm yet to print this one, but a similar image with less mist works really well printed in colour, as the mountain on the right is bathed in the warm dawn sunlight, although that is slightly obscured by the mist in this one. I try to build my style on a combination of composition and light, whenever I can.One day I would like to return to Oslo and photograph what I should have done while living there, but it was in the long period without doing any photography.

Ah, thanks, stålplate was one of the few words I couldn't work out. I'd never have thought of printing on steel.

Wow, lots of beautiful shots here. My landscape shots tend to be intimate in scale, as evidenced by this one.

I think if you boosted the blacks and the contrast, it would have a lot more impact. Perhaps reducing the exposure by half a stop too (so the whites don't get blown by the contrast boost). Rocks and white water can look quite impressive.

I am really enjoying this gallery, in case of B&W I guess some HDR photographs minus wired grayish, decaying colors are quite palatable. My is not an HDR in the sense of using HDR stacking software, it is one shot adjustd in PS.

I especially like Gammyknee's shot just above. How did you get the entire frame in focus?

Thanks.

In theory the best way to get the appearance of sharpness right through the frame is to run the numbers through a DOF calculator and set the lens to the hyperfocal distance. Thing is, I always seem to do better by just looking at the scene, picking the area that I want to have peak sharpness and focusing on that. That, combined with a reasonably small aperture (in this case f11) usually gets me what I want.

I especially like Gammyknee's shot just above. How did you get the entire frame in focus?

Thanks.

In theory the best way to get the appearance of sharpness right through the frame is to run the numbers through a DOF calculator and set the lens to the hyperfocal distance. Thing is, I always seem to do better by just looking at the scene, picking the area that I want to have peak sharpness and focusing on that. That, combined with a reasonably small aperture (in this case f11) usually gets me what I want.

I'm inclined to agree, while it is good to klnow the hyperfocal distance, it isn't always the best choice. It depends purely on the scene to be photographed and the relative distances of the nearest and furthest away points.