Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

2015 TRAPPS CLIFF PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE

Routes between and including the climb “MOONDANCE” (5.6) through to the climb “AFTER THE PRICK” (5.4) are closed as of March 25, 2015 and will remain in place until the fledging has been confirmed. This extends from the right side of the Slime Wall through the right side of Sleepy Hollow.

DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.

DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.

PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This is a great, unique Gunks route that uses chimney, hand and off-width crack techniques as well as a little face climbing. Climb the obvious crack in the left facing corner and traverse under a big roof to the left and over the nose/flake. Pass the huge ring bolt and walk off the Uberfall or set up an anchor on gear to toprope.

Location

Just past the Uberfall and about 50 to the right of Ken's Crack. Start in the short chimney in the large left facing corner.

Protection

Gear up to #5 Camalot needed. No anchors at top, you must build your own or walk off left and down the Uberfall Descent.

This is a really fun route with a cool variety of moves. The crack down low seemed harder than it looked and the roof seemed easier. Go figure. Definitely worth doing, but seemed hard for the grade to me.

I've never had anything bigger than a #3 camalot on this one, and use the giant ring bolt for a tr. Seems very solid last I checked. Good way finish to the day, and lets you TR the 5.10ish face climbs next to it...

For those interested, there are two pieces of fixed pro in addition to the giant ring: a piton about a third of the way up when the crack begins to narrow from offwidth, and a bolt on the face to the left of the nose. You have to step up to clip the bolt but it will protect the burly layback moves to the finish.

I agree with Brian, we protected the whole climb with nothing bigger than a gold C4 (#2). The traverse protects okay with small gear, a little fiddly and balancey to place but definitely there.