on a serious note with this thread: cant say enough good things about how helpful all of you have been with my car, not a lot of support for these on this side of the pond. really is and has been appreciated.

couple questions for you guys about engine mounts: i had to burn out the rubber on my mounts and bolt them direct as solid mounts in order to get the motor to sit low enough to clear the bonnet. did you fellows do something similar? different bonnet? or find another way to mount it? i am waiting for my engine steadys to arrive but thought i would ask before i mount them. thanks, jim

Solid mount is absurdly rigid. Despite all promises that the k head fits unders the standard bonnet I was also facing the same problem. Solved by making a bulge. You have seen I have a fibre flip front. In case you want to make things really complex but clean you can fit an auto subframe, they are wider and the engine sits lower.

added the two lower stabilizers that mount to the rear of the subby, along with the stock mounted one from the bulkhead to the tranny (gearbox) it seems to have taken most of the vibration out of the car, still looking at mounting another from the water pump to the bulkhead. anyone else done this?

. so tuning update. took it to my neighbor that repairs motor bikes yesterday and had the tb's balanced, make a huge difference in running and no back fire on deceleration. planning on hooking up the ecu to my laptop with the tuning guru friday and see what he thinks. getting nearer completion and liking how it runs more and more,

he had a set of hanging gauges (4) with hoses on them and the hoses just slipped on the the ports on the lower edge of each tb, they have little rubber caps just pushed on, started the car and adjusted each one with a screw driver from left to right to match the one nearest the gearbox. number 2 was pretty close on mine and 3 and 4 were way off. took him all of 15 minutes, best $10 i have spent in some time. did the air /fuel same i would using a small hose and just listening.