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Hi,
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Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

You cannot change the fuse the way that you are trying. You need to loosen all of the bolts that holds the fuse box to the inner fender, and then observe the sides of the box, there are tabs that allow the exterior/bottom of the box to be pulled DOWN. After the box bottom is released, the 120 Amp fuse is accessible.
Hope this helps.

You have to remove the hub to remove the bolts, if they won't come out by rotating the hub.

To remove the hub, take the cap off at the center of the hub (the cap would be poking you a the center of the hub, and is about 2 inches in diameter.

There should be a cotter key or something preventing the spindle nut from turning. Remove it. If there is a cover over the spindle nut, remove it. Take the spindle nut off. Pull lightly on the hub, and it will come off. Watch for the front bearing to pop out.

To reassemble, put hub back on spindle, put bearing and washer against bearing, thread on spindle nut and tighten while rotating hub. Back off 1/2 to 1 flat add cover (if used) and install cotter key.

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle,
arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the
panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want
to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to
get it off the window ledge.

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If it's the same Dreami Carry cot as mine then the raincover is simply pulled over the top of the pram and the elastic edges will sit just underneath the base. I don't believe there is any other type of raincover.

Recline the seat unit to it's lowest position.
On the arm rests of the pram, there is a piece of fabric covering each arm, these are attached via press studs, undo these and fold them backwards onto the seat area.
This will reveal a plastic hook underneath, these are folded down and need to be raised upwards.
Next, get the Ventura carseat and ensure that the handle is in the carrying postition (i.e facing upwards). On the base of the carseat at the back (directly underneath babys head) there is a distinct cut out shape that will fit snugly onto the bumper bar of the pram, place the carseat on top of the pram (so it is positioned on the seat facing you) and push it down gently. If this is the first time that you have done this, the material may be quite plumped up so you may need to push a little harder.
At the base of the carseat handle either side, there is a button (this is used to adjust the handle position) push these buttons down at the same time and move the handle backwards (away from you) until the handle makes an audible 'click', this means that this has now secured onto the plastic hooks that you first exposed on the arms of the pram.

This should now be securely fastened onto the pram.
I would also suggest that you visit this website as per the link below and download the user manual for the 3D so that you have this is picture format in front of you.

Run your hands from the carrycot carry handle downwards (do this either side of the hood) until your hands are at the bottom. You will find a small (silver I think) button either side, push the buttons down toward the floor whilst someone else gently pushes the hood backwards. Once you have done this a few times, you will soon figure out that you can push one button, and then the other, leaving the other hand free to lower the hood.

Watch the video, "bugaboo assembly" on youtube. The trick is getting the buckle over the silver pins. You actually have to bend the frame to secure the strap then pull out the frame so it is straight again.

Hi there,
there is a black wire frame that goes on the metal bits that the carry holder thingy sits on. If you push it on to that the carry cot sits on top of it. Then you slip the carry holder thingy back on after it.
Sorry about my lack of correct terminology but I hope this helps.