I picked up this 71 Swinger 2 years ago. It came from Huntsville Alabama and still has the original bill of sale with the car.I have been slowly restoring the car from ground up and minor modifications to suit my likes.Last winter I stripped the underside of the car to bare metal and repainted it, NO rust. While it was stripped I welded in frame connectors from US Car Tool, mini tubbed the rear, 8.75 was completely redone with all new but the housing. 489 carrier with 3.55 Suregrip from Mancini's, large bolt NHRA approved street axles from Dr.Diff along with Bbody drum brake kit. I also moved the rear-end back 3/4" to fit taller tires. Up front I installed new large bolt disc brakes with tubular control arms. As the car went back together I installed ceramic headers with 2.5" polished stainless pipes, 2.5" electric cut-outs, 40 series flowmaster muffs. I cut the spare tire well out and boxed in a 20gal aluminum fuel cell. I finished the job with a new set of Weld Pro Stars, 15x4 fronts and 15x10 rears. The rear tires are 28x13.5

I bought new parts over the past 2 years and now the rest of the car is being done this winter. The vinyl top is gone and the paint is going to be 2010 Viper Blue. I sold the 340 and had MRL Performance build be a monster 408 stroker, 512HP/519TQ. My friend built me a stout 727 trans, and I got a custom 3800 stall made up from JK Converters.I got the following parts from AMD, the best fitting Mopar parts in todays market: 70 bumpers, OEM style full rear 1/4's, rear deck filler, door hingesI'll post some pics...........................

This is how the car was purchased[img][/img]

This was the result of last winters upgrades[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

Really Cool Car !And I really like what you have done with the back end. A-Body's just look so cool with some rubber under the back-end !

I ran a '70 Swinger for many years, but with a 493 INDY deal, as I was an Engine Shop for many decades myself, and over 750hp was a little much on the street, but FUN !Here's what we found as best way to run 11.5 X 30-15" keeping the Car "level" stance.

The mini-tubs on the inner over to the framerails are great with leaving the stock outer,but we also relocated the Leafs into the framerail....then, sectioned the 1/4's forward a couple of inchs to line up within 1/4" of the front of the stock outer wheel house(just added a small piece in the 1/4 above the wheel well in the middle.)

It allowed us to tuck all that 11.5"X 30" Balony under a stock looking, and level stance with no interference to the front of the wheel-well lip. Most thought the car was back-halved(which it wasn't), but in conjunction with later Caltracs was good for 1.50 60 ft on a foot launch, NO brake.

Ya I actually offset the spring box about an inch to the inside of frame rail rather than center of it, this way everything is flush with the outside of the frame rail in the end. The tires on it are 28x13.5 and I have 1" clearance on both sides of the tire.As for the rear sitting a bit high, is due to the shocks being too long and too stiff. I plan to bring it down 2"I also have enough room in front of the tire to go taller yet as well so when the tires are replaced I will be going to 29x12.5

Cookie-Monster wrote:It's sitting quite a bit higher than stock, just an observation. Nice work on the car.

Yeah, It's the shocks. Once I change them the rear will sit just above the rim, then I can bring the front back down.When I took the back shocks off the car it sat nice. Now I just need to find shorter shocks.