This richly detailed volume is redolent with the unusual preparations of a cuisine ancient in origin but entirely modern in its palette of tastes. Thoroughly researched and thoughtfully written by Barron, who launched the Kandra Kitchen cooking school, the book will prove both intriguing and practical for modern cooks--and harried menu planners. As the author writes, ``Menu planning becomes easier if we bear in mind some of the Greek traditions and customs with dining. The meal itself is a social event, so much of the work is done ahead and, with the exceptions of meze appetizers and salad preparation, relatively little last-minute attention is required.'' Many recipes--especially vegetable dishes--are perfectly suited to advance preparation. Just as impressive are the author's selection of dishes ``inspired,'' she writes, ``by the heady perfumed fragrances that seem to float on the Greek air.'' These include sea bass with vinegar and rosemary, chicken with walnut and coriander sauce, beet salad with allspice, and saffron rice with mussels. Fresh fruit desserts, custards, ``spoon sweets'' (to accompany an after-dinner cheese selection) and recipes for a variety of sauces, pickles, jams, preserves and crusty Greek breads round out this tempting and original work. Illustrations not seen by PW. Author tour. (Aug.)