Turned up the headlights on the lathe. Left a little pip in the middle for the bulb which I picked out in clear yellow. Headlight glass was punched out from 15 thou clear, with a hatch pattern scratched in.
Glued em in with a little clear enamel.
BMF'd front and rear bumpers, Painted and installed chute with a few shroud lines and release chord.
Installed rear lenses and lights, Glass work (inscribed a line seperating the door window fom the the rear section). internal tinwork painted Humbrol polished aluminium.
Master cylinders,steering wheel, instrument panel,etc finished up

Got just the front steering links, track bar etc to put on, plus the dashboard/steering wheel combo, and while i think about it the parachute cords could do with a mounting point, but I may let that slip my mind! :

Front axle mounted up with the shocks attached now - (my god that was fiddly).

Check the odd gas pedal location - I can assure you the real car had pedals either side of the transmission hump. George must have had great faith in his scattersheild to sit with his legs akimbo like that!!

PE buckles and the seat cut down a little to make it sit right under the roll cage. gear shift scratchmade.

At the back - wheelie bars, brake line & the batteries wired.

Dashboard ready to go in - home made decals and bezels - dual brake cylinders and pedals.

Paint was biggest headache. First time round - all paint done, gave it a clear coat, instant bubbling! Both paints acrylics, but colour coats - tamiya air brushed, clear coats - Humbrol. Anyways one bath of brake fluid later I started over. I took the opportunity to get the paint a bit more accurate. The original job was a couple of shades too dark.

Seen one or two of these made up and they all look great when done, but as for it being an anywhere near accurate representation of Ohio George's Maverick - forget it!

So I set about reworking the Hobby Heaven re-release.
Things to go:

Massive rear arches - I used the spare fenders from the front and cut them into the rear arches (I used the stretched wheelbase fenders on the car making it the barely-run altered version), ,

The enormous hood-long scoop now smaller and shorter.

B-pillars removed.

Radiator grille panelled over (I didn't use the kit part - too thick).

Engine pretty much stock, but turned up pullies, magneto, fuel pump e.t.c. and plumbed and wired. The Multimaverick had a dual drive from the water pump for the fuel pump and magneto, so they were scratch-made too.

Chassis extensively reworked. Kit chassis one of the more accurate parts of the car, but looks more like one of George's earlier Mustangs, particularly that bizzare bent front axle.

I use mainly brake fluid to strip and it usually works well with most paints. The only thing that seems to hold it back is Humbrol clear coat (acrylic), but yeah if I rub the clear coat down a bit it seems to grab it and then the paint underneath goes quick.

There's probably quite a few ways of doing this, but I made myself a magnetic jig consisting of a 10" x 8" magnetic sheet (sort of a vinyl-like)
glued down to a similar sized piece of 5/8" plyboard plus several small blocks of metal which were offcuts from a 1" x 1" bar of mild steel.I think Micromark make a similar unit (or used to!)

Then I draw the chassis out on graph paper full size,and tape it down on to the board. Then taking plastic rod cut it to length on the plan and hold it in place on the drawing with pins (the vinyl sheet was rubbery enough to take a pin) and or adhesive tape. Then every so often tack the rods together with liquid poly like mekpak or similar. Don't forget to "fishmouth" the rods together for a good fit. Make two sides this way. Then a liile superglue applied to each joint with a wooden toothpick re-inforces each joint and provides a realistic "welded" look. at this point manufacture those little gussets, brackets and engine mounts etc.

When both sides were complete I attached using double-sided tape each frame to the side of a 3/4" square short length of wood batten so they can be stood up. Then I drew two lines representing the converging frame rails and positioned the two side frames in position relative to each other. Then cut the cross-wide rods to join the two sides together. Glue and reinforce as before. The trickiest part is joining up the rear of the frames. Gentle heat and a gentle touch and bend your rod to represent the curved rails and hoops at the rear. Draw it all out as much as you can to avoid surprises and get a feel for it.