No, the range is probably a 50 amp circuit and the hood and microwave would
be 15 and 20 amp circuits, which would be protected only by the 50 amp
breaker. Also you would overload the circuit in using all appliances
together. The hood can be wired to any lighting circuit and the microwave
needs a dedicated circuit

range
Can you? Yes, if there is a neutral in the box. Should you? NO! Look up
previous threads about 110 from 220, for a better explanation of why not. If
it is just a fan, you can probably steal power from the ceiling light in the
kitchen, if it has unswitched power in the box, or from a counter outlet, or
outlet in the room behind, if this is an inside wall. If a micro is in the
plans, bite the bullet and string a dedicated circuit, running to an outlet
mounted in the cabinet.
aem sends...

Odds are your feed to your oven/range is sized for their demand; so
don't mess with it.
Just a side note, many microwaves are very powerful, and come with
many features. Example, if you have a 1.8kw microwave, just to cook
food it will be drawing 15 amps at 120v. (1800w = 15a x 120v). So
with do-dads I wouldn't besurprised it's rated amperage is higher. So
the microwave, in this case, will probly need a dedicated 20 amp
circuit.
Remember, only use qualifed people for electriclal work, and a
consultation shouldn't cost you much.
imho,
tom @ www.NoCostAds.com

You have three problems which will impact resale value, if not be outright
dangerous.
1) Unless the house it reasonably new, your oven circuit will not have a
neutral and should not be used for 120v. Yes, your stove probably is partly
120v (as is mine), but you don't want to add to that problem.
2) The circuit is probably the right size for the oven, and is not intended
to be added on to. Yes, unless you are using both the oven and several
burners you ought to be okay, but it is still a bad idea to push your luck
with electricity.
3) The 50a breaker will not protect your add ons, which will only be rated
for 20a. You would have to put in load center with a 20a breaker. It is
probably cheaper just to add a new 20a circuit for the microwave.

There have been several refferances as to the breaker not protecting the
device hooked to it.
The braker is only to protect the wires . It is not to protect what is
hooked to it. The device should have its own protection built in.

Well, you normally plug a microwave into a 5-20, which would be a code
violation on a 50a breaker. I suppose you could use something larger, but
it would be foolish.
And I didn't say it was a code violation, I said it was dangerous. You want
to plug your microwave into a 50a circuit, go ahead.
(though it might be a code violation; modifying devices with UL ratings...)

So, if I plug a lamp into an outlet and the lamp socket, cord, etc
shorts out, the breaker isn't there to protect against that? Where's
the protection in the lamp? Or how about a washing machine or
dishwasher, where the wiring inside shorts to the metal case? Those
are going to trip the breaker before the appliance goes up in smoke.

is
Many household items are plugged into breakers much bigger than the current
they need. Look at the clocks. They use almost no current (less than 1 amp)
and are plugged into a 15 amp breaker circuit. They will smoke way before
the breaker trips. There are very few items in the house that are connected
to a breaker that is anywhere near their rated current.
The main purpose of the breaker is to protect the wiring going to the
recepticals. If you plug in a lamp and the cord shorts, hopefully there
will be enough current drawn to trip the braker. There have been things
like TV sets that develop internal problems that will cause the TV to
overheat and cause a fire without drawing enough current to trip a breaker.
The TV should have an internal fuse or braker set for just about what it
needs. Most are plugged into a 15 amp outlet but do not use anywhere near
that ammount. Without any internal protection, they could develop problems
and the breaker would never trip.

It's best to estimate the repairs, take it off the sale price of the house, and
do the repairs yourself. The exiting homeowners have no interest in doing the
fix beyond what may be barely acceptable.
I'd either estimate completing the repair and take it off the price, or just let
it go and complete or redo the repair yourself. Over the course of
homeownership, this is a nit.
But don't have the exiting homeowners do the repairs. This is what you get.
Banty

This is controlled by the minimum size and maximum length of a
"fixture wire". In a fault condition a short piece of 18ga wire will
pass enough current to operate a 20a breaker.
If the OP is still fixed on the idea of "stealing" power from the
stove he should add some kind of supplimental protection (fuse or
breaker) where he takes the power off the 50a circuit. It is still not
a recomended plan.

Dave, after reading all the replies, it's clear that part of the problem is
in how you asked the question: "Can I steal 110 volts..." You can do any
damn thing you want. If you want to know if it will work, it will. If you
want to know if it meets NEC rules, it doesn't. If you want to know if it's
safe, it's not

only if you have a gas stove and the outlet is not in use might you
look at that particular cable for a different use, while standing next
to a licensed electrician who will explain why you might leave the
unused outlet for the next guy who wants an electric stove.
whether for gas or electric stove, he will advise you how he can add
the proper sized and protected outlets for the new devices, all subject
to your local requirements.
general electrical faq at:
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/electrical-wiring/part1 /

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