Published 4:00 am, Thursday, April 6, 2006

Our panel tasted so many outstanding under-$50 Napa Valley Cabernets from 2002 and 2003 that we split our recommendations into two groups. Our 2003 favorites are below; for the 2002 picks, published on March 23, go to The Chronicle's Wine Selections archives at sfgate.com/wine.

TWO AND A HALF STARS 2003 Aquinas Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($12) A value-brand sibling to Screw Kappa Napa (below), this wine combines juicy, ripe black cherry, black plum and cured olive aromas with a hint of smoky bacon. The flavors follow on the palate, with a finish of supple tannins and spice.

TWO STARS 2003 Bennett Lane Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) This Cab is distinctive for its orange marmalade/red raspberry aroma and tangy citrus/berry finish. In between are more classic, substantial flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cassis, dried herb and vanilla. Its label alcohol reads 15.2 percent, yet there is no obvious heat on the long finish.
TWO STARS 2003 Buehler Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) This youngster strikes a balance of ripe, almost jammy black cherry fruit with dried plum, tobacco, pine and smoke notes on a brawny, firmly tannic frame. Give it time to settle down.
TWO STARS 2003 Ehlers Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($33) Here's a wine that tastes good and does good -- sales proceeds go to cardiovascular research. It's a smooth, polished Cab with juicy blackberry and cassis flavors plus a liberal dusting of cocoa and spice; creamy vanilla coats the palate.

THREE STARS
2003 Honig Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) Rich, ripe and gorgeously textured, this Cabernet has everything -- sweet, juicy black cherry and plum fruit, dark chocolate and roasted coffee notes, and subtle hints of smoked meat, oak and vanilla. Complex and plush with fresh acidity, it's a delicious drink.
TWO AND A HALF STARS 2003 Parallel Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($44) This new wine produced by consulting-winemaker-to-the-stars
Philippe Melka
delivers pure black cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors, with touches of cigar box, toast and vanilla. It's deep and rich, with polished tannins and a lingering finish.
THREE STARS 2003 Pine Ridge Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) A real crowd-pleaser, this balanced and luscious wine brims with fresh wild berry and black cherry fruit. There's plenty of complexity from the smoke, vanilla, dark chocolate and meaty tones, and the finish is bright and fresh rather than heavy, making it perfect with food.
THREE STARS 2003 Screw Kappa Napa Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) It tastes incredibly more expensive than it is and may be the best Napa Valley Cab deal going. The wine has vivid black cherry and mocha aromas and a rich palate of cassis, black cherry and dark chocolate. While not as complex or deep as some of the wines here, it delivers a mouthful of Cabernet flavor for what, in Napa Valley, is pocket change.
TWO STARS 2003 Titus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($39) Fine balance and juicy black cherry and cassis fruit make this a winner, with complex chocolate truffle and pencil-lead background notes. Velvety tannins and crisp acidity make for easy sipping.
TWO STARS 2003 Turnbull Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) This underappreciated producer consistently turns out beautiful wines at very fair prices and this one continues the tradition. Toasted pecan, violet and black cherry aromas lead to a ripe, purple-fruit palate with hints of sage and toast. Angular tannins should round out with time in the bottle.
TWO AND A HALF STARS 2003 ZD Wines Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) A slight barnyard aroma quickly blows off to reveal a complex nose of cassis, toast, toffee and walnut skin. The palate is equally diverse, with bright cassis and black cherry, anise, cocoa, fresh herb and smoke flavors. Sturdy tannins suggest improvement with cellaring.

KEY

FOUR STARS........Extraordinary

THREE

STARS.......Excellent

TWO STARS.........Good

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