I want to veneer cotton fabric to a pair of 15×48 doors that I’m refinishing. The doors have been prepared with a ground coat of latex/acrylic wall paint. The final finish will be waterborne lacquer (Target EM 6000). I’d appreciate any thoughts on what to use to adhere the fabric that will be permanent and compatible with the la...

I’m in the process of completing the finishing of a 12 year old project that’s been in use since then. About 6 years ago, I bought a gallon of Bona Mega floor finish to replace my usual waterborne, Varathane. I also bought Gramercy synthetic brushes to see how they perform with waterborne finishes. I finally got around to using the ...

The original poster has me blocked, so I can’t contribute there, but for your interest and inspiration, my Projects Gallery shows a few natural edge pieces I have made.. I’ve enjoyed coming up with designs that show off the unaltered creations of Nature.

As of right now, site statistics (We are 93,373 woodworkers making 2,665,625 comments on 103,334 projects, 39,887 blogs, 3,816 reviews and 61,490 forum topics) are a joke. They are meaningless to both the woodworker and a potential advertiser. If I were considering advertising, the only thing I’d care about are visits by month for the last...

Is it better to chew on the right side or left side of your mouth? Oh, wait a minute; that question has already been answered on the corded vs. cordless drill topic.
Actually, the answer’s easy. If you’re from Kentucky, its the side that still has a few teeth.

One of the more enduring finishing myths is that BLO “soaks” into wood. I’ve been more than a little skeptical about that idea, so I conducted an experiment to see if and just how much BLO and raw tung oil penetrate different woods. I puddled each oil on samples of white ash, red oak, cherry, and hard maple. After a half hour, ...

Conventional finishing wisdom has it that thinning a finish will increase penetration. Wrong!! The reducer may soak into the wood, but the molecules of the drying oil or resin that make up the body of the finish will only penetrate a few wood cells deep, where they will cure and present a barrier to any further penetration. Subsequent applicatio...

I have the strong impression that much of the advice offered in response to questions raised in many of the for a, especially the finishing forum, are speculative, without any basis of experience on the part of the responder. Mostly gobbledygook.

A recent topic on one’s prejudice against metal slides in fine furniture got me wondering what makes a piece of furniture fine. Personally, I think fine is a pretentiously meaningless term. When I look at a piece of furniture, I judge it based on several factors.
Foremost is its design; any decent craftsman can put a bunch of drawers in...

Conventional wisdom has it that new wood should be “sealed” with shellac to start the finishing process. That’s pure baloney promoted by Zinsser to sell their products. Any kind of resin finish will “seal” itself. For an expose of the shellac hoax, check out Bob Flexner’s article in the September issue of Woodshop News.

I’m going to lay a 3/4×5 T&G Heart Pine floor on a radiant slab, and want to glue it directly rather than over an underlayment and/or floating. The slab is dry as a bone and the ambient humidity never exceeds 35% (NM). I would appreciate hearing about any similar experience. TIA

This is a piece of ipe, sanded to 120 and finished with three brushed-on coats of Bona Mega, a water based oxygen cross-linked polyurethane floor finish. The first light coat was rubbed back with a maroon pad, followed by two more wet coats within a day. It self leveled without any brush marks or trapped bubbles. It’s a beautiful full clea...