Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

QuoteWilberMaker
I am trying to install a Inductive sensor on my printer. The sensor is working. If I put the head in the center of the bed and do a normal Z home it works like a regular endstop. Problem comes when I try a G28 it Homes X and W normal then trys to home Z with the sensor hanging off the bed. What settings do I change to get it to home Z in the center of the bed?

I deal with the sensor offset by having the below code at the beginning of my start gcode. It homes the X and Y axis, moves the X axis to X 100, and then homes the Z axis.

G28 X; Home extruder
G28 Y
G1 X100; move the sensor over the bed
G28 Z ; home the extruder down after moving the sensor

QuoteWilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

Sorry was busy yesterday and didn't get a chance to check my firmware. I have the appropriate probe offsets in Marlin, then modified the endstops pull-ups, when I run a G28 it moves to 0,0 (front left corner of bed) and then moves to the middle of the bed and homes, then G29 sends the probe to the front right position probes, front left probes, back left probes, and then back right probes. This is opposite of what it use to do with my older version of Marlin but abl is still doing its job.

QuoteWilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

Sorry was busy yesterday and didn't get a chance to check my firmware. I have the appropriate probe offsets in Marlin, then modified the endstops pull-ups, when I run a G28 it moves to 0,0 (front left corner of bed) and then moves to the middle of the bed and homes, then G29 sends the probe to the front right position probes, front left probes, back left probes, and then back right probes. This is opposite of what it use to do with my older version of Marlin but abl is still doing its job. I'll send you my firmware around 1pm central time today.

What version of Marlin are you using? With 1.1.0RC6 I get exactly the same results as you. I'm using a BLTouch probe that hangs off the left side of the extruder head. If I comment out the Z_SAFE_HOMING line it will try to probe Z with the probe hanging off the left edge of the bed. With SAFE_HOMING enabled it moves to the left edge switch and then moves to the center and then probes. I haven't had time to look if any EEPROM settings are connected to the probe position.
Are you sure you had a good compile and download after enabling Z_SAFE_HOMING?

Here's a couple of lines of code that are used when Z_SAFE_HOMING is enabled. The code is certainly trying to get to the center of the bed.

QuoteWilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

Sorry was busy yesterday and didn't get a chance to check my firmware. I have the appropriate probe offsets in Marlin, then modified the endstops pull-ups, when I run a G28 it moves to 0,0 (front left corner of bed) and then moves to the middle of the bed and homes, then G29 sends the probe to the front right position probes, front left probes, back left probes, and then back right probes. This is opposite of what it use to do with my older version of Marlin but abl is still doing its job. I'll send you my firmware around 1pm central time today.

What version of Marlin are you using? With 1.1.0RC6 I get exactly the same results as you. I'm using a BLTouch probe that hangs off the left side of the extruder head. If I comment out the Z_SAFE_HOMING line it will try to probe Z with the probe hanging off the left edge of the bed. With SAFE_HOMING enabled it moves to the left edge switch and then moves to the center and then probes. I haven't had time to look if any EEPROM settings are connected to the probe position.
Are you sure you had a good compile and download after enabling Z_SAFE_HOMING?

Here's a couple of lines of code that are used when Z_SAFE_HOMING is enabled. The code is certainly trying to get to the center of the bed.

I am using 1.6.5, attached is my Configuration.h, I wouldn't copy this exactly as our machines are probably set up a little different but see if you can find any differences in your endstop and homing settings.

Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. The printer display thinks it is at 100,100 with the head closer to 50,50. When I give G29 the head moves over and puts the probe over 0,0 and attempts to probe.( will not work on corner of bed) I am wanting to say my offsets are correct and safe probing is working but I have something wrong with the Z homing not going to bed center and the head is trying to go off the bed. Also need to find why G1 not working. Thinking maybe G1 is over-driving the steppers and they are skipping steps? Hope this makes since.

WilberMaker

Edit: I tried moving the head to 0,0 with the Repeiter toggle buttons and homing Z at true 100,100 and the sensor still goes over 0,0 and attempts to probe. I did see that a M119 shows the MAX endstops triggered. Is this right or do they need to be turned off?

QuoteWilberMaker
Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. The printer display thinks it is at 100,100 with the head closer to 50,50. When I give G29 the head moves over and puts the probe over 0,0 and attempts to probe.( will not work on corner of bed) I am wanting to say my offsets are correct and safe probing is working but I have something wrong with the Z homing not going to bed center and the head is trying to go off the bed. Also need to find why G1 not working. Thinking maybe G1 is over-driving the steppers and they are skipping steps? Hope this makes since.

WilberMaker

Edit: I tried moving the head to 0,0 with the Repeiter toggle buttons and homing Z at true 100,100 and the sensor still goes over 0,0 and attempts to probe. I did see that a M119 shows the MAX endstops triggered. Is this right or do they need to be turned off?

Just remembered something check your bed dimensions and max travel after homing or something like that. I think I remember messing with these settings. That's weird with G1, G1 is a standard linear move while G0 is a rapid linear move. Try sending a G1 X50 F(acceptable speed), example F300 would cause it to move to X50 at 300mm per minute. If that doesn't work check your steps per mm settings in configuration.h and make sure those are configured properly. Also check your voltages on your stepper drivers. I have my reference voltage tuned to around 4.2 volts.

Hello everyone I am new to this cite so any advice or pointers would be very appreciated. I have upgraded my computer which means I have to create all of my old settings in my slicer, I am using Cura at the moment and am open to any other suggestions. I am trying to print multiple parts on the same bed, but I want them to print individually. When I try to do so however, I get an error message that states "for one at a time printing, you need to have entered the correct head size and gantry height in the machine setting." I have done no modifications to the machine. If anyone knows the correct numbers for the stock machine, I would greatly appreciate this information.

QuoteAngoveInc
Hello everyone I am new to this cite so any advice or pointers would be very appreciated. I have upgraded my computer which means I have to create all of my old settings in my slicer, I am using Cura at the moment and am open to any other suggestions. I am trying to print multiple parts on the same bed, but I want them to print individually. When I try to do so however, I get an error message that states "for one at a time printing, you need to have entered the correct head size and gantry height in the machine setting." I have done no modifications to the machine. If anyone knows the correct numbers for the stock machine, I would greatly appreciate this information.

Has it been implemented? One part at a time, was to be implemented in Cura 15.10 (or what ever the Year-Month name the new release becomes...)

There's probably a beta out there.
I don't know for sure but I think you have to change json code...try to get the printer "shape" settings to match the Marlin Configuration.h

Give us the fix when you figure it out

P. S. It is also necessary to match your >Printer Settings >Printer Shape in Repetier with your Marlin Configuration.h and of course with your machine.

The pastebin link you provided in the thread is not functional. Also, could you give a picture of your printer settings in rep-host, and say where your endstops are located. I know from experience if you do not have the proper settings in printer settings, the printer can act a bit funky.

Can someone one help me out, the bltouch just blink, g28 home my x and y g29 just make the bltouch go up, m119 reports z is trigger at all time
here is a link to my config, firmware is 1.1 RC3, i sped two days trying ot get this to work lol

Quotefvargasfrank
Can someone one help me out, the bltouch just blink, g28 home my x and y g29 just make the bltouch go up, m119 reports z is trigger at all time
here is a link to my config, firmware is 1.1 RC3, i sped two days trying ot get this to work lol

It sounds like your pin is stuck or not moving freely. Spin it and move it up and down a few times. If you use hair spray like I do, I think that some gets onto the pin. Have you adjusted the set screw in the top?

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I reset the alarm but once it touches the glass is goes back into alarm, i did move the screw on the top a little,I try {M280 P0 S10 ; pushes the pin down } it send into alarm mode, the pin does not move up or down

Quotefvargasfrank
I reset the alarm but once it touches the glass is goes back into alarm, i did move the screw on the top a little,I try {M280 P0 S10 ; pushes the pin down } it send into alarm mode, the pin does not move up or down

If you moved the set screw then chances are that you are out of range of where the BLTOUCH will operate. If you remember which way you moved it, move the set screw back a small amount (very small > 1/8 turn) and turn the power back on and see if the BLTOUCH self tests by moving the pin up and down 3 times. If it doesn't, move the set screw some more until it does self test. This is very time consuming and a PITA, but it's the only way to get it to work again. I know because I have been where you are now! I removed the pin to clean it and forgot to measure how far out the pin sticks when retracted against the set screw! This should definitely be in the ANTCLABS instructions!

Keep adjusting and don't give up. It is a great little tool.

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2016 01:39PM by tjnamtiw.Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

Then my GUESS would be that you either have ABS still stuck in the nozzle because you aren't melting it out at the lower temperatures or your teflon tubing in the heat break tube has gone bad due to the high temperatures you ran ABS at. If it were me, I'd put a new heat break tube and nozzle in the machine. It's a cheap fix. All of this assumes you have a stock extruder and hot end.

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

Then my GUESS would be that you either have ABS still stuck in the nozzle because you aren't melting it out at the lower temperatures or your teflon tubing in the heat break tube has gone bad due to the high temperatures you ran ABS at. If it were me, I'd put a new heat break tube and nozzle in the machine. It's a cheap fix. All of this assumes you have a stock extruder and hot end.

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem.

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem.

I meant all metal heat break.

Can't help you with that!

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5. Both running the BLTOUCH.
Great kit. Having fun and running the heck out of it.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and 1.0.2 on the FT5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quotejabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

Then my GUESS would be that you either have ABS still stuck in the nozzle because you aren't melting it out at the lower temperatures or your teflon tubing in the heat break tube has gone bad due to the high temperatures you ran ABS at. If it were me, I'd put a new heat break tube and nozzle in the machine. It's a cheap fix. All of this assumes you have a stock extruder and hot end.

So if i raise the temp up to 240C I can get it to push through smoothly. I tried printing a part at 100% infill and it seemed to go fine until about the 5 layer. The gear chewed up the filament again. This is driving me nuts.

QuoteUltiFix
Well, I thought I fixed my extruder problem but I guess not... It the middle of a print it will stop extruding. I tried tightening the threaded hotend into the heat break and the hotend into the threaded piece.

If I take it apart and put it back together it will work for abit... Then stop extruding again. Should I try heating my hotend up to around 230 and then try cleaning it with a guitar string?

I guessing you may have a blob of plastic forming between your heatbreak and nozzle.

I looked a little closer at the before/after photos you posted a page or two back. It looks like you tightened the heatbreak tube up into the heatsink block, not down into the heater block. To ensure you have a tight seal between the heatbreak tube and the nozzle, start by backing the brass nozzle out of the heater block a full turn or so. At this point, screw the heatbreak tube all the way into the heater block (use ALL the threads). Now tighten the nozzle, until it bumps up against the tube. You should still have some thread of the nozzle visible, if not, try getting the heatbreak in a little farther down into the heater block.

Now heat up the hot end to about 240c, then once up to temp, tighten the nozzle again. You should still have a little space on the nozzle thread. It should not bottom out all the way to the heater block. This way, you know you have a good seal between the heatbreak tube and the nozzle.

If you do this, and you still have trouble, then it may be as msaeger suggests, the liner is bad, and replacing it may be needed. When replacing the heatbreak tube, make sure you follow the steps above to ensure a good seal between tube and nozzle.

I failed to do this when I purchased and installed an E3D lite6. I was having all kinds of extruder skips and jams. After much troubleshooting, and trying all kinds of different things (and more than a few choice words), I cleaned it all out, followed these steps when putting it back together, and it's been running like a champ ever since.

--Andrew

Sorry for the SUPER late response, I have been really busy...

Ok, I turned the hotend to 240c, viced the brass nozzle with a vie grips, nozzle spun loose easy

I spun it maybe a turn loose, then tightened the crap of the the heat block into the threaded tube that connects to the heat break. Then tightened the crap out of the brass nozzle.

QuoteWilberMaker
Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. The printer display thinks it is at 100,100 with the head closer to 50,50. When I give G29 the head moves over and puts the probe over 0,0 and attempts to probe.( will not work on corner of bed) I am wanting to say my offsets are correct and safe probing is working but I have something wrong with the Z homing not going to bed center and the head is trying to go off the bed. Also need to find why G1 not working. Thinking maybe G1 is over-driving the steppers and they are skipping steps? Hope this makes since.

WilberMaker

Edit: I tried moving the head to 0,0 with the Repeiter toggle buttons and homing Z at true 100,100 and the sensor still goes over 0,0 and attempts to probe. I did see that a M119 shows the MAX endstops triggered. Is this right or do they need to be turned off?

If my memory serves me correctly, the max endstops need to be turned off. It screwed me up to...