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Chef Ryan Jaronik, the former head of Williamsburg's Monkey Town and veteran of both the Chicago and Boston scenes, establishes his personal brand with Benchmark, a steak-heavy locavore spot that fits right in among Brooklyn's better New American restaurants. Arched windows, handsome leather banquettes, and hanging wrought-iron doors set the scene. Seasonal seafood options include a lobster bisque with tarragon royale and mustard oil, and a black trumpet rubbed ahi tuna served with salsify, pickled chanterelles, and charred mushroom jus. Beef is the real star here, however: Lean American Kobe slices arrive saturated in their own juices, topped with a generous spread of thin, crisp onion rings, and goat-cheese-whipped potatoes.