I had posted earlier where Nick at B.Nelson had a reply from AE on the changes in finishes which read:

Cordovan: We changed our cordovan burnishing process to increase the smoothness and luster on our cordovan shoes. We shifted the burgundy to a darker color. The new process results in a very durable color allowing the black and burgundy to be more black while increasing the amount of luster. Burnishing cordovan is much more difficult than calf skins, so we have dedicated one of our best and most experienced burnishers to cordovan. As a result, the new cordovan shoes look great.

So in reality it could be said that AE didn't "change" the finish on the shoes but the process which would explain the earlier response from AE saying there was no change in the finish. I would say the pair of Dundee's I have reflect exactly what is bolded above though.

I couldn't find an example of shell but here is one of Strands in calf before and after burnishing:

It took a lot longer to get the cream off the Dundee's than I thought it would, plus the brushing to make them "glow". Still a bit of oil that needs brushed out but they will do for now. The shoes that I have were definitely done by the person that AE mentions above. Lighting changes the look dramatically and now with the cream gone you can see the black highlights and deeper burgundy color, along with a higher gloss finish. I am very impressed and hope everyone that has a pair coming gets the same finish. Minus the heavy shoe cream application of course.

I had a lady friend over last night and this morning I was carrying the Dundee's inside after the last brushing and she comment what a beautifully colored shoe. Then said she wondered if they would fit her.... Later she said that was the most tense she had ever seen me, so I showed her something that I lifted from AAAC, she has a better understanding now LOL.

I am very impressed and hope everyone that has a pair coming gets the same finish. Minus the heavy shoe cream application of course.

For my incoming burgundy shell Daltons I am not excited about all the brushing you mention (...can I find a rag wheel for my bench grinder?) but that end result cannot be argued -- those things are gorgeous.

@miller - thats what I am trying to decide about purchasing but the pictures from urban daddy and this thread, in my opinion, do not show the color of the leather very well. I have searched this thread and found one pair that demonstrated the color well and am looking for more pictures. I also did an internet search but notmany pics of the dublin cognac in natural light with real backgrounds.....

I was going to get the Gramercy until I seen the pictures that Urban Daddy sent me. I searched all over the place for pictures but couldn't find any. After I seen the pictures Urban Daddy sent me I went with the Amsterdam. I really like the Gramercy but I'm not sure on the color and it has to casual of a look that I really don't need at this time.

I had posted earlier where Nick at B.Nelson had a reply from AE on the changes in finishes which read:

Cordovan: We changed our cordovan burnishing process to increase the smoothness and luster on our cordovan shoes. We shifted the burgundy to a darker color. The new process results in a very durable color allowing the black and burgundy to be more black while increasing the amount of luster.

That is so helpful! When I emailed AE, I got this response:

Quote:

Thank you for your email. The Burgundy Cordovan is the same as what’s used on the Leeds. I think it just looks deeper Red on the site.

This is making the choice between the Leeds and Alden PTB hard. I've already tried on the Leeds and like the fit and shape of it a lot, but the color on the Alden is so much nicer.

I had posted earlier where Nick at B.Nelson had a reply from AE on the changes in finishes which read:

Cordovan: We changed our cordovan burnishing process to increase the smoothness and luster on our cordovan shoes. We shifted the burgundy to a darker color. The new process results in a very durable color allowing the black and burgundy to be more black while increasing the amount of luster. Burnishing cordovan is much more difficult than calf skins, so we have dedicated one of our best and most experienced burnishers to cordovan. As a result, the new cordovan shoes look great.

So in reality it could be said that AE didn't "change" the finish on the shoes but the process which would explain the earlier response from AE saying there was no change in the finish. I would say the pair of Dundee's I have reflect exactly what is bolded above though.

I couldn't find an example of shell but here is one of Strands in calf before and after burnishing:

It took a lot longer to get the cream off the Dundee's than I thought it would, plus the brushing to make them "glow". Still a bit of oil that needs brushed out but they will do for now. The shoes that I have were definitely done by the person that AE mentions above. Lighting changes the look dramatically and now with the cream gone you can see the black highlights and deeper burgundy color, along with a higher gloss finish. I am very impressed and hope everyone that has a pair coming gets the same finish. Minus the heavy shoe cream application of course.

I had a lady friend over last night and this morning I was carrying the Dundee's inside after the last brushing and she comment what a beautifully colored shoe. Then said she wondered if they would fit her.... Later she said that was the most tense she had ever seen me, so I showed her something that I lifted from AAAC, she has a better understanding now LOL.

There was some discussion about this earlier in this thread this week. I think there was something about the stiffner in the cap toe not extending far enough. Don't think there is anything you can really do about it. The closer the line for the cap toe is to the vamp the more of a chance there is it will crease pass the cap toe I think.

This is making the choice between the Leeds and Alden PTB hard. I've already tried on the Leeds and like the fit and shape of it a lot, but the color on the Alden is so much nicer.

I tried to get a picture of my older Leeds to do a comparison but the lighting wouldn't work with me, it was either too bright or too dark. They look almost brown in comparison to the newer AE color. But I still love them anyhow.

I was going to start purchasing Alden chukkas next year because AE doesn't (didn't) offer any in shell till the Dundee webgem came out. I wanted to stick to AE if possible as they work with the military exchange and being retired military that is important to me. No other high end shoe company works with the MilExch, although a few other better quality companies like Filson and Hickey Freeman do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by random-adam

For my incoming burgundy shell Daltons I am not excited about all the brushing you mention (...can I find a rag wheel for my bench grinder?) but that end result cannot be argued -- those things are gorgeous.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sevenfoldtieguy

Nice looking boots. Sounds like a lot of work.

Yes it was a lot of work, and I did it the hard way. I could have left them alone but I knew that the black highlights would eventually start screaming at me saying let me out. When I first wore them it only took 15 minutes brushing for both boots and they really did shine well. Most people would have and will leave them that way. If I would have used Reno'Mat instead of Renovateur the whole thing would have had taken an hour at most. But I was nervous about using Reno'Mat on brand new shell plus wanted to be able to stop if I was stripping off too much. Overall I feel it was well worth it but if I had it to do over again I'd strip with Reno'Mat instead of Renovateur which kept adding oil.

Of course you can use a rag wheel on the bench grinder! Brownell's gunsmith supply sells loose muslin wheels for polishing. At one point I even considered it.... In addition to the horse hair brush I use a nylon stocking over my hand to help generate heat and bring the oil to the top, but find I still need to brush so that the oils move around and dissipate.

Cold Iron, they look phenomenal - thanks for the great pics and description! With 4 more pair of Dundees coming, you'll be getting a workout.

On a related note, I heard from AE that there is a real shortage of shell cordovan, so this boot makeup going on right now might be be the last shell webgem for a while. I think I will be ordering shortly.

Also, the rediscover America sale is coming up 9/24 if anyone is waiting on the next sale.