Step 4: Tools you won't find in radioshack

This is another "How to Solder" instructable, but it also attempts to get at why soldering doesn't go easily sometimes. On the following pages, there are also numerous pictures showing good technique, good and bad joints, and some tools of the trade that you may not find in your local RadioShack. If you've ever wondered what wattage iron to get, the 3rd step has a video showing how some irons of different wattages fair on a couple soldering tasks.

Here is my list of the top reasons soldering doesn't work well (looking forward to your opinions on this):

1. Soldering tip has oxidized (turned black) and solder won't stick to it. This happens when the tip is left bare while on--a naked tip will quickly oxidize at hot temperatures. The best advice for preventing this is to glob solder on the tip every time you set the iron down. Weller (high-end iron manufacturer) actually recommends holding solder against a new tip the first time you turn it on so that the solder will melt and cover the tip the very instant the it gets hot enough. One of the best guides out there that emphasizes tip care: Weller's HowTo

2. Bad technique: applying solder to the iron, letting it sit there for a while, and then trying to carry it over to the joint. If you let the solder sit on the iron, the flux quickly boils off (the fumes are from flux, not the lead). And without flux, soldering becomes almost impossible. Flux removes oxidation from metals, and it's crucial because solder won't stick to oxidized metals, and metals oxidize very quickly at soldering temperatures.

3. Not enough heat: A 15 Watt iron is fine for small chips, but any larger connectors or wire bigger than 16 gauge will cause problems. 25W-30W is probably fine for most hobby applications. Is there any risk to getting a 100W iron? Wattage is separate from temperature, right? ... depends on the iron. Watch the video on the next page.

4. Dirty or oxidized parts: Bare copper oxidizes relatively quickly (this is why most components are tin / lead coated), so older parts or bare copper that has been exposed for only a week or two can require a light sanding (pink erasers are great) or stronger flux.

Shameless plug: This instructable is an except from a larger guide with many more pictures found here: www.CuriousInventor.com/HowToSolder. There is also a desoldering guide, a review of the cold heat iron, and advice for choosing solder / flux types. And, of course, a store to buy stuff :)

i have an 80W soldering iron with a chisel tip (Weller brand) that i bought for $20, but i find that it's too hot and the tip is too thick. Could i stick the tip in a lathe and grind it down so it's like a cone shaped tip, or would that ruin the tip? and when i was soldering connections on a plastic battery pack, the plastic started melting..... should i just get a cheaper soldering iron with less watts?

Too bad the link results in a 404 error message. I understand that being an instructor or a student at a tech university, a small business partner, and life in general forces one to manage their online time. Having said that IMO it isn't cool to direct responses to comments that include questions and reader of those who also may benefit s from the answer away from an instructable.

Great, thanks. Not knowing what you recommended a held off in pointing out some tips are plated and sanding or grinding them will ruin them. In the event your group ever revise your instructions that would be something to include. along with that "loose" tips can cause problems. My suggestions to =D where going to be to get an iron in the 40-45 watt range and get a new tip for the 80 watt iron, and make sure it was tight when installed to see if it will tin, if not use a light dimmer to make a simple control to reduce the heat, to see if will tin then. The simple control will turn that 80 what monster into a dual purpose iron, and will be usable for any iron purchased in the future. Nawadays the digital readout infrared thermometers. make calibrating the simple temp controls much easier.

Added it to the "How to Solder" group. Thanks for the compliment and suggestion.

That desoldering tool is great (and over $600), but for occasional stuff the RadioShack iron with a bulb works great. If you really want one, the cheapest place that I've seen equipment like this is Madell Tech--here's their page of desoldering irons. I actually prefer wick / braid since it's easier wipe up every last bit of solder with that. Shameless plug: you can get it here.

Tip: If you do get one of the vacuum desoldering tools, sometimes it's helpful to add more solder to the joint first because they're most effective when they can create a strong vacuum, and it's hard to create a strong vacuum over a mostly clear hole.

I'm still in awe of that pump, and still trying to figure out a cheap version. What if a vacuum pump were attached in place of the bulb, and a hopper set up to catch the solder? Is that basically what the fancy version does?

My guess is any vacuum source could be used, even a home vac., with a chamber behind the tip to catch the cooled solder and a screen between the chamber and vacuum line. Post an intractable of what you try. My spring loaded solder sipper works for what I need for board repairs. My board component salvaging methods aren't elegant, so I don't need a pump for that.

The fancy irons do indeed have a hopper of sorts to catch the solder, but I'm not sure how it's integrated with the vacuum line, etc. One problem with those things is that you constantly have to use little cylindrical files to clean out the tips. It'd be neat try hacking up that radio shack thing, attaching a vacuum and screen and trying it out. I suspect the airflow will prevent it from getting how enough. But if you let it heat up for a while without air flow, and then only cut it on when the solder is molten it might work. A lot of people have made cheap hot air pencils out of that by attaching a fish tank pump tube to the bulb and blowing air through the tip. This did not work for me at all regardless of every permutation on tip shape and "stuffing" that I put in it. The air temp was never hot enough.

I know exactly what you need. It's the radio shack desoldering pump model #64-2098. I own and there great, plus they only cost $9.98. I highly recommend this if you want a good low cost desoldering pump.

As a person who has had hit and miss luck with soldering, I am happy I stumbled upon this video. Your video helped me to realize all the mistakes I have made in the past, I still have a way to go I'm sure but this is an excellent start. Thanks!

YOU are the MAN !!! I can and do solder quite a bit but you have really done a great job of explaining the reasons for all the innate things we do to get a good joint ... and the why not toos as well this is by far the best Ive seen...

Could you elaborate on why a smaller is better? Just to save solder? From my understanding, as long as a majority of the pad is connected with solder, and the angle the solder makes with the surfaces is less than 90 degrees, all is well... Would love to hear additional information.

if you make the blob too big you have the risk of connecting ajacent ones, a short circut is not good and will cause problems and it doesnt look good so it would probably be good practice to make blobs just big enough to make the connection so you dont cenect things

Wonderful set of How-To-Soldier videos. I've been doing these procedures for about 30 years. It took me a decade or so of trial and error and research to get this much information. Although it does take lots of practice. KUDOS to you guys!!!

so should i get a soldering station that goes from 5-40 watts or 5-80 watts. I am going to use it for general use and for circuit boards. Also, the station can be controlled, it is the WLC100 from Weller