Midway between Kars and Ani in remote northeastern Turkey lies the village of Subatan where a turn to the left leads eventually to Oğuzlu and the ruins of a 10th-century Armenian church, standing forlorn in a farmyard.

Its facade is dotted with inscriptions in Armenian as well as with many of the frilly crosses, called khachkars, for which these churches are known.

The church is contemporary with some of the ruins of Ani, once the capital of Bagratid Armenian, when presumably this part of the country was more densely inhabited than it is now.

Sleeping

The best base for visiting Oğuzlu is Kars.

Transport info

There are no buses to Oğuzlu so you will need to make arrangements with a taxi driver in Kars perhaps to visit the church as an add-on to a visit to Ani. On the same trip you could also visit the remains of the churches at Yağkesen and Kozluca.