As spring chases the cold of winter away, rich, heavy dishes take a backseat to fresh, clean flavors. And yet, you don’t want to eat a salad every day. LifeScript asked acclaimed chef Josiah Citrin, of Michelin-starred restaurant Mélisse in Los Angeles, for his foolproof tips on preparing favorite spring and summer dishes. Plus, he shares two special-occasion recipes that make the most of seasonal ingredients…

When the world-renowned Michelin restaurant guide published its first Los Angeles volume last year, only three restaurants in the city earned two of Michelin’s highly coveted stars. One was Mélisse in Santa Monica, where chef-owner Citrin has been deliciously combining classic French traditions with new American cuisine since 1999.

Freshness and flavor are the guiding principles at Mélisse, which is French for “lemon balm,” a Mediterranean herb. The name, Citrin says, “represents the influence of natural herbs and flavors in my cuisine.”

However, there’s no need to travel to Southern California to sample Citrin’s fresh fare. Here are his tips on taking advantage of spring’s best offerings, whether you’re preparing sophisticated dishes or a simple meal for your family.

Tip 1: Seek Out the Fresh Stuff

Once you have a sense of what you’re going to serve, Citrin recommends seeking out the freshest and finest raw ingredients. Non-perishable staples can be ordered online from across town… or across an ocean. Farmers markets and specialty food stores can be found in most cities and towns, which makes the search for high-quality produce easier than ever. Look closely, choose carefully before you buy and sample whenever possible. (See related article: Antioxidants for What Ails You?)

“Anybody can tell the difference between what’s good and what’s not,” Citrin says. “You taste a green bean, and if you go ‘wow’ when it’s raw, it’s great. If you taste one and go, ‘oh, that’s okay,’ well, which one are you going to choose?”

It’s all about the fresh product, long before the stove-top burner is turned on. “A raw green bean is a good product, and it should taste good from the start,” Citrin adds. “In the cooking process it should get better and better, and when it reaches that point where there’s just a little resistance left – it’s not soft, there’s really great flavor – that’s what you’re looking for, the moment when something tastes its best.” (More green bean tips and Citrin’s recipe for Warm Asparagus and Haricot Vert Salad is on page 5)

Tip 2: Read the Entire Recipe First

According to Citrin, the most common mistake people make when preparing a new recipe has nothing to do with overcooking. “If they’re following a recipe, I think most people don’t read the recipe enough,” he says. “The first thing you need to do, especially if you’re trying to cook well and maybe do something a little bit outside of your comfort zone, is to read the recipe at least three or four times. And then take a little time to really think about it.”

Before you start cooking, Citrin recommends familiarizing yourself with any techniques or ingredients you haven’t previously tried. Then make a list of all the items and ingredients you’re going to need.

“Even if it’s a dish you’re coming up with yourself, you should write everything down and think about the process you’re going to go through and how you can be the most organized about getting it done. You can’t cook if you’re disorganized,” he emphasizes.

Once the list is ready, “see if there are things you can get started ahead of time,” Citrin suggests, “so you’re not trying to rush everything into one day.”

If the recipe calls for a number of different ingredients, “I think little recyclable cups are good to keep your prepared items in as you put things together” he says. “That way they’re right there in front of you, and you don’t have to wash a big stack of bowls when you’re done.”

Tip 3: Doing Fish Right

Fish is the ideal light fare for a warm evening, but people are often unsure how to prepare (or pick) a good fish. Don’t be, Citrin says. “First of all, you have to go by the reputation of where you buy the fish.” And this is one of those times when it’s worth it to spend a few dollars more. “A better quality fish is a better-tasting fish,” Citrin asserts. And he practices what he preaches: Some of the fish Citrin serves at Mélisse is FedExed from France. (See related article: A Fishy Matter)

A choice piece of fish should be opaque and glistening. “If it looks pale and dead, that’s just what it is,” Citrin says. “If it looks slimy and not nice, it’s slimy and not nice.” And when in doubt, ask. Don’t be shy about asking questions at the seafood counter of your grocery store or fish market. Where was the fish caught? Was it wild or farm-raised? How long after it was caught did it arrive at the store? Ask serious, well-informed questions, and you won’t be swimming upstream next time you shop for seafood! (Citrin’s recipe for Steamed Halibut with Tomatoes is on page 7)

Green beans (haricot vert) should be bright in color when you buy them and have a velvety skin. When you’re buying the beans, break one in half; a fresh bean will snap and show a bit of moisture at the breaking point.

You want that crispness to remain in the finished dish. “It only takes about four minutes to cook green beans,” Citrin says, “and you should take one out and taste it along the way. You should have tried one when it’s raw, and if it tasted good then, the next time it should taste a little better, the next time after that it’s ‘wow!’ – and then you’re done.”

(Serves 4)

Ingredients

1 pound haricot verts (or green beans), trimmed and cut in half

8-10 pieces large asparagus, stemmed

2 red pear tomatoes, cut in half

2 yellow pear tomatoes, cut in half

1 Maui onion, small

1 bunch chives, finely chopped

4 rainbow radishes, thinly sliced

2 shallots, peeled and finely diced

1/8 pound baby lettuce mix

1/2 clove garlic, minced

2 ounces Banyuls (French wine) vinegar

1 ounce balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Blanch haricot verts in salted boiling water for 4-5 minutes until tender. Remove beans from hot water, and soak in an ice bath for 2 minutes. Strain. Set aside.

2. Peel the asparagus starting about 1 1/2 inches from the top. Blanch the asparagus in salted boiling water about 6-8 minutes, using a stainless steel pot to avoid discoloration of the asparagus. When asparagus is tender, remove from hot water and soak in an ice bath for 2 minutes. Strain. Set aside in a cool place.

3. Cut the Maui onion in quarters, then julienne (slice very thin). Slices shouldn’t stick together. Put the uncooked onions in an ice bath for 4 minutes to avoid browning. Dry well and set aside

For the vinaigrette:

1. Using a small sealable plastic container, add the vinegar, mustard, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. Shake for a minute until mixed and salt has dissolved. Add the grapeseed and olive oil, and shake again until mixed.

To assemble:

1. Toss all vegetables into a medium bowl. Mix gently and slowly. Add most of the vinaigrette (reserve a little), and toss until vegetables are coated. Serve on chilled salad plates, adding a dollop of dressing on top.

Alaskan Halibut with Cherry Tomatoes, Basil, Tomato Consommé

The consommé (clear broth) can be prepared the day before.

(Serves 6)

Ingredients

6 6-ounce center-cut halibut filets

36 cherry tomatoes (yellow, red, orange, green, white)

1 shallot, finely chopped

3 basil leaves, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

10 beefsteak tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt

Chervil sprigs and snipped chives, optional

For the steaming liquid (to cook fish): 1 cup white wine

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

3 sprigs basil

1 lemon, sliced

2 cups water

1 shallot, sliced

Sea salt and fresh white pepper

Preparation

For consommé:

1. Blend beefsteak tomatoes and teaspoon of salt in a food processor. Tie the tomato purée in cheesecloth, and allow water to drip out into a container. It is best to do this overnight in the refrigerator. Set consommé (collected water) aside. Discard the tomato purée.

For the cherry tomato mixture:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add salt (about 1 teaspoon per quart of water). Quickly blanch cherry tomatoes in the water. Refresh in ice water.

2. Peel the skin off the tomatoes. Slice the tomatoes in half and place in a bowl. Season the tomatoes with salt, pepper and some of the olive oil. Mix in basil and more olive oil. Let them soften at room temperature.

For the fish:

1. Combine all the steaming liquid ingredients in a steamer, and bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Insert a steamer basket and cover.

2. Season halibut filets with salt and pepper. Place in the steamer basket, and cook for about 5 minutes or until a thermometer reads 104 degrees. Remove from steamer basket.

To assemble:

1. While the fish is cooking, bring the tomato consommé to a boil and season to taste. When hot, remove from heat.

2. Place the fish in the center of each of the 6 bowls. Garnish with the cherry tomato mixture. If you like, sprinkle chives tips and chervil sprigs over the tomatoes. Pour the consommé over the halibut and cherry tomato mixture. Serve immediately.

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