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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Purple Aubépine

Aubépine is and empire waist dress with horizontal tucks on the bodice and sleeves. Variations include elbow-length and short sleeves.

I was a tester for this pattern and the first time I saw the technical drawing I was a little bit worried because empire waist + boobs give the "pregnancy effect" very easily. But hey, Eléonore has designed for women with C/D cups since day one, so I was sure there must have been a lot of thought behind this dress. And of course there was!

Not only it doesn't make me look pregnant, but it's extremely flattering! The neckline is beautiful, the tucks are adorable, the pleated skirt is simple but dreamy and it has pockets!

This was my test version and even though I didn't make a muslin before cutting my fashion fabric, it's perfectly wearable. I cut my usual size 38 (shoulders and bust) - 40 (waist) - 44 (hips), and the only alteration I needed was to shorten the bust darts (which I haven't done yet because it was too hot to wear this dress until last week). I used a weird fabric, it's like a very drapey gabardine, which I was attracted to because of the vibrant jewel color, but it wasn't the easiest to sew and press.

Constructing this dress is pretty easy, you just need to take your time marking and sewing the tucks, and the rest is easy peasy. The pattern calls for a drawstring at the waist, but I preferred inserting elastic. Because I had already sewn the buttonholes for the string in the center front, I concealed them with a bow, and I really love how that turned out. I also did a rolled hem with my serger (new favorite hemming technique, btw) because I knew a regular hem would look awful with this fabric.

I'm seriously in love with this dress and I'm planning an everyday version in Liberty with short sleeves and slightly raised neckline.

What do you say? Did you like this new release?

If you're not completely sold on it yet, I urge you to go look at Magali's, Julie's and Clotilde's renditions, they're absolutely gorgeous!

30 comments:

Gorgeous Anna! I truly think you could make anything look beautiful. I really love the vibrant colour of this dress, it looks so cool against your hair. And I love those shoes! Really great dress, totally doesn't like a test/muslin version. x

I love how this dress looks on you, but I'm not sold on this pattern. Well, I'm the biggest size in D&doe, and I have a strong feeling that this shape would definitely make me look as I'm pregnant (I have a large tummy, unfortunately). If only the elastic could be slightly lowered, then it might work for me, too! So I'm waiting to see some more versions in larger sizes, before buying it. Great choice of colour!

Hi Paunnet, I have been searching your blog for a dress you have made where the gathers are under the breasts (empire line) as i know you always have to do an fba and i wondered if you have done one on this style of dress before. All the online tutorials seem to be for fba's on dresses with side darts or under the breast darts but not gathers! If you can point me in the right direction. That would be totally fab! Ps, I am quite smitten with your dress style: I wish i had your awesome cellar fabric stash and sewing skills...a girl can but dream! Thanks Jen

To tell the truth, the pregnacy effect is still something that worries me about that pattern...But i have to say i really like your violet purple version. That color is magnificent! I'm looking forward to see you liberty version.

I totally hear you on the empire waist + boobs effect-- I like the look of empire waists, but I usually have to have a very fitted waist to avoid the same problem! That's really cute, though. I'm not sure if I'd wear it as a dress, but I bet it would make a really great tunic, too.

This turned out gorgeous! I'm seriously floored by how stunning you look in this color! I do love the slightly fitted way the skirt falls - I agree, empire waists can look sort of 'maternity' on - so this is a lovely surprise! So happy to see this made up!