Roopkund trek Adventure

What can I say? If you are into trekking and hiking and haven't done the Roopkund trail, then you need to start planing for it right away. It is one trek that is a must-do.

It's got everything going for it. Deep virgin forests, gurgling brooks, breath-taking campsites, miles of undulating meadows, snow and ice, and the taste of a great adventure as you climb from 8,000 ft to 17,000 ft in 4 days.

Your trek starts at Lohajung (8,600 ft), a tiny pass, that slips in through the Gwaldam face of the mountain and into the Wan valley.

Lohajung is the last stop for replenishing supplies. It is not a supermarket, but you get your usual potatoes, onions, and everyday vegetables. Even film rolls. Stock yourself well and book yourself a room at the GMVN rest house or the FRH (Forest Rest House). K S Danu, the caretaker is helpful and will arrange guide, porters and mules for the trek as well.

Another option is to stay at the Patwal Tourist Lodge. The rooms are cleaner, the views great and the Patwals treat you like family. The rates are equivalent to GMVN and you can book your room in advance by phone.

Getting porters isn't difficult and they are usually hovering around the bus stop. If you want a helpful guide who looks after you well, ask specifically for Narendra. All contact numbers are alongside.

Taking mules for the trek makes more sense than taking porters. Mules eat grass (plenty available on the trek) and not food (so saves you food costs on porters). Mules carry more load than porters and finally, they don't give you any trouble. The flip side: mules cost Rs 350 per day. Porters Rs 225. Guide: Rs 450 (updated rates as on September 2010). Check to see that you negotiate on a per day basis and not on 'padav' basis. 'Padav' rate is on per camp and not on per day. So if you advance two camps in one day, you'll pay for two camps.

Roopkund trek: GMVN guest house, Loharjung. It will cost you about Rs 150 per person per day (approximately), less if your group is larger.

Roopkund trek: Patwal Tourist Lodge, Loharjung. It will cost you Rs 250 per room (twin sharing). A cleaner and brighter place to stay in Loharjung.

From Loharjung, just behind the bus stand is a trail that takes you to Raun Bagad, an iron bridge, just below Didana village. This is a well marked descending trail through mixed forests.

Alternative, follow the road that leads to Wan. It's a 6 km easy walk to Kulling village and then descend to Raung Bagad.

Whatever route you take, it is a good way to flex your hamstrings before you start your climb to Didana Village.

All along your walk to Raun Bagad/Kulling you hear the whistles of the thrushes, the soft chirps of the swallows amongst the Rhododendrons. Below, the Wan river tumbles about as it rushes to meet the Bedni Ganga and seemingly out of the depths of the river, you'll spot Lammergeiers, their massive wings stretched out catching the eddies.

It is not uncommon to spot the yellow throated marten on this section. Martens have a yellow and black head and back, a deep canary yellow throat, and a bushy black tail. Though it is a bit clumsy on the ground, it climbs trees very well. We spotted one crossing and recrossing our path for a while. The locals don't like them and shoo them away with a pellet of stones. Martens are good stealers and often grab a hen from the villages.

If you have taken the route on the road, Kulling village springs out on you at a bend (6 kms from Loharjung, 8,200 ft). A cluster of white set against the emerald green of stepped hills. Kulling is a cluster of not more than 20 houses. Count them in the picture below. This is the entire Kulling village.

Roopkund trek: Kulling Village. Catch the trail that leads out from the bottom of the village like a tail. That's the trail you have to take. Click on image for a larger view.

From the Kulling village, it is quite a descent to the Wan river. You drop height and you don't like it, knowing in a while you'll have to climb all the height lost on the other bank.

If you have taken the trail through the mixed forest, then it is a gradual descent to the river and you don't feel it.

2 hours out of Loharjung, you reach an iron bridge over the river. This is Raun Bagad, a grassy bank on the river -- a good place to camp. Think about this if you reach Loharjung early and looking for a camp site that gives you a head start.

The trail starts to climb right after you cross the river. It is a zig-zag climb to Didna. The climb's moderate but your legs tire easily. You aren't used to it and your body's mechanism rebel. Breathing hard, you'll reach Didna in about an hour and half's time. Stretch it to two if you are out of condition.

Didana village can be a bit confusing with many trails running into it. Stick to the trails that go around the village on the outer peripheri -- they lead directly to the Didana camp site, a clearing 200 ft above the village.

Didna camp site is a grassy field just 10 minutes above the village. An ideal spot with a clear stream running down to its right. The campsite gazes across the valley. Loharjung, Kulling and Wan span left to right in a sweep. Behind you through the Oak forest, high above is your destination for tomorrow -- the twin meadows of Ali and Bedni Bugyal.

Roopkund trek: Didana Camp site

Roopkund Trek facts:There are two ways to reach Ali Bugyal from Didna. If you are looking across the valley (like in the photograph), to your left is Tolpani a cluster of shepherd's hut 3 kms away and 1,000 ft higher. The trail to Tolpani moves away from the general direction of Ali Bugyal. At Tolpani it veers a sharp left, traverses across the mountain side, high above the Didna camp site and joins the trail to Ali.

An alternative route is to climb directly to Ali without going to Tolpani. My suggestion: If you reach Didna early, take a side excursion to Tolpani. It is a good climb through some of the densest oak you'll see. Under you is a never ending brown carpet of leaves. The climb to Tolpani is refreshing, helps you acclimatise and gets your limbs ready for the next day's tough climb to Ali Bugyal. Don't camp at Tolpani, but return to your Didna camp site. Didna to Tolpani and back can be done in 3 hours. Next day, climb directly to Ali Bugyal.

Start early from Didna. You want to get most of the climb behind you before the weather closes in sometime in the afternoon. You'll miss your best views of Ali bugyal with Trishul forming the backdrop if you get to Ali too late.

The trail's just to the right of the Didna camp site, hanging over the shoulder of Didna village. You cross the village and immediately afterwards the trail veers right and gets steep. Soon, you are amidst oaks and you can catch glimpses of Didna's rooftops below you. 10 mins later you come across a stream. Stop to catch your breath and fill in your water bottles. This is the last water point and there isn't any water source until Bedni, 4 hrs away. The water's cool and crisp and feeds the Didna village.

The climb through the dense oak forest is seductive. Sun beams light up the moss laden bark of the tress. A brown carpet of leaves marks the trail. The air is cool enough to make your sweat cold. Around you is a dense foliage of green, and as you climb the sweet smell of moist earth lingers around.

It is a 2,500 ft climb from Didna to Ali. Quite a bit if you are not used to climbing. Take it nice and slow and enjoy the views. It is perhaps one of the best that Himalays has to offer through dense oak forests.The forest starts to thin after about 2½ hrs of climb (make it 3 if you are slow)Suddenly, abruptly, the oak falls behind you and stretched in front of you is a largest, greenest rolling carpet ever laid out for you. You've arrived at Ali Bugyal.

All tiredness forgotten, you soak in the mesmerising sight of the undulating meadows of Ali Bugyal. You are on the top of a ridge that spreads in every direction. Acres and acres of green meadow scooped out of the mountainside.

Clouds drift in from below, glide over the ridge and slide down the either side, all in a slow swift motion. You watch countless horses grazing on the bounty of nature. Foals tearing themselves across the turf in an uninhibited abandon, just being themselves.

The climb over, leisurely walk your way to Bedni Bugyal, 5 kms away and more or less at the same level. If you are tempted to take off your shoes and allow the feel of the carpet on your toes, just go ahead and do it!

Roopkund trek: My favourite picture. Just as I had composed the flowers on my viewfinder, the horse looked up and set up a perfect shot.

Towards the end of Ali Bugyal there's a short steep climb of 10 minutes before the trail leads you to Bedni Bugyal. The weather fluctuates in these parts and you can have moments of wild sunshine followed by anxious cloud cover. Keep your raincoat handy. Sometimes it rains for a few minutes leaving you frustrated, at times it could rain for a few hours.

A "L" in the folds of the mountain, and the Bedni Bugyal campsite unfolds below you, another heavenly strip of green overlooking the western valley. There's a tea house that serves up some much welcoming warm tea after your exhilarating climb to Bedni. You can get a bed here too, but chances are that some trekker would have already booked it. The GMVN rest house at Bedni can be booked in advance at Loharjung or online.

Roopkund trek: The Bedni Bugyal camp site (11,500 ft). If you want a perfect setting for camping in the Himalays, then Bedni would be among the top in your list.

Roopkund trek: Day 3Bedni Bugyal to Bhagwabasa (4 - 4½ hrs. Level moderate: Easy assent at the beginning, gradual decent followed by a stiff climb in the middle. Easy walk at the end).

There's is a big change in the days trek. You start at the meadows, gradually climb out of them, make a steep dash to gain height and finally camp on the snow line. The day's trek will also see you climbing from 11,500 ft to 14,500 ft. For the first time on the trek you will feel the effects of altitude and thin air.

Start your day early again. You want to be in Bhagwabasa as early as possible to acclimatise yourself to the altitude before your final push to Roopkund. The trail to Bhagwabasa climbs out of the Bedni campsite in a gradual, easy meander. From your Bedni campsite you can follow it with your eye for 3 kms before it disappears into a saddle in the mountain.

Stage one: There are two ways to catch the trail to Bhagwabasa. The easier option is to retrace your steps of yesterday to the point where you left the main trail to get into the Bedni campsite enclave (5-7 mins walk backwards). Get on the Roopkund trail and carry on your hike up and above the Bedni Camp site. Another option is to start from your camp site, skirt the Bedni Kund from the right, climb up the slope behind the Kund, and climb up to the trail from any direction you deem fit. This will save you half an hour to 45 mins of trekking time, but can leave you breathless.

Roopkund trek Bedni Bugyal to Bhagwabasa: In the picture below, the route marked in yellow is the regular trail. The one in green are the short cuts that you can take. Let the picture not fool you. It is quite a climb to reach the 'yellow' trail. Click on the picture for a bigger view.

Stage Two: When you cross the saddle, the trek exposes you to the other side of the ridge. The scenery is differently mesmerising. For the first time you also see remnants of the winter snow on the mountain flanks (on the other side). It is still meadow country and below you are the meadows of Ghora Lotani, the last stop for the horses. Beyond Ghora Lotani the meadows merge into the mountain side.

Ghora Lotani makes an excellent camp site. In fact an additional day spent at Ghora Lotani will help to acclimatise to the altitude, plus offer you great views. Not much has been written on Ghora Lotani but think of camping here either on your way to Roopkund or on your way back. It offers as good views as Bedni and has the added bonus of a strange sense of isolation. You can just about camp anywhere at Ghora Lotani, but ideally look to camp near the end of the meadows. A clear stream spews out of the side of slope and makes for a very good water source.

It takes about ½ hr to traverse over the Ghora Lotani meadows, before you reach the second saddle. Here, on your left you can see a trail that heads down to Bhuna (and further on to Sitel and Suthol). Upwards is your climb to Kalu Vinayak. The saddle signals the end of the meadows.

Take a break here, swig a bottle of water, tighten your straps and ready yourself for the climb to Kalu Vinayak

Roopkund trek: Patal Nachauni. The legends are more impressive than the location, but take a look before you start your climb to Kalu Vinayak.

The climb to Kalu Vinayak is a steep zig-zag up the mountain side and will take you to 14,500 ft. The distance isn't much, and the zig-zag trails makes you gain height very rapidly. Climb this section very slowly.

There really is no hurry and even if you are the slowest on the team you can reach Bhagwabasa in comfortable time. Take 10 minute breaks every 15 minutes. This is a cruicial height where most climbers feel the thinness in the air. You get breathless very soon and sometimes even feel dizzy. This would be ok, if you did not have to do the Roopkund climb the next day. Most folks climb this section like any other climb and find it difficult to acclimatise to the Roopkund altitude later on. Treat this section as the most crucial bit of your trek. In climbing time it takes around 1½ hrs to climb to Kalu Vinayak. Stretch it to 2½ hrs, even if you can climb quicker. By doing this, you'll find your body adjusting to the increased height and the lack of oxygen.

Climbing to Kalu Vinayak is a thrill and everytime you look up and take a bend on the trail, the ridge line gets closer, drawing you, inspiring you. Around you are the green, sheer mountainside. Below, you can follow the trail that you took from the first saddle over Ghora Lotani and finally to Kalu Vinayak.

Roopkund trek: Half way up to Kalu Vinayak, looking down over Ghora Lotani. You can follow the trail all the way from the first saddle to up where I am. From this height everything looks tiny.

Kalu Vinayak gets its name from the black Ganesh idol enclosed in a stone shrine just as you finish the climb from Ghora Lotani. Lots of temple bells and a large plate for you to make a donation. Everyone offers a prayer here for a safe pilgrimage to Roopkund. A donation of Rs 10/- is standard. Some offer biscuits instead! Choose!

Roopkund trek: The Kalu Vinayak Shrine. You touch snowline here.

Beside the Kalu Vinayak shrine and right next to it you hit your first patch of snow. You are at the snow line.

The trail from Kalu Vinayak to Bhagwabasa is easy and gently sloping downwards. Bhagwabasa is 2 kms away and you can see the Bhagwabasa huts if you follow the trail with your eye. The trail meanders through snow patches.

Be careful on these snow patches. In June, by mid-day, they get soft and you can find yourself sinking to your knees in them. Step gingerly, quickly and skip your way across them. Better still, skirt around them.

Bhagwabasa is a cluster of stone huts put up by enterprising locals. The charge is on a bed basis. It could be Rs 150 to Rs 200 per bed depending on the season. On lean seasons the rates could go down to Rs 50. If you are staying at Bhagwabasa the locals will also cook for you at an additional cost. Carry your own sleeping bag -- the nights are extremely cold.

If you are carrying tents, then don't pitch camp at Bhagwabasa. Move ahead for another 5 minutes and you get a camp site on your left. This is Hunia Thal, a small clearing. There's space enough for 4 tents and no more. The place is rocky, but you don't have much of an option.

At Bhagwabasa, night's turn extremely cold. Inside tent temperatures dip to 1°C. Outside I measured at -2°C at 2.30 in the night. These are mid summer temperatures. In September-October temperature will dip further to -5°C or -6°C. Bhagwabasa is windy too. In the wind chill the -2°C feels like -6°C. You need to put on all your warm clothings and then get inside your sleeping bag to brave the night.

You need to start your push to Roopkund at 5.00 am. The sooner the better. Most trekkers cannot make it to Roopkund because they start late. The snow becomes soft and your feet start sinking in. You need to climb up to Roopkund while the snow is still hard. There's plenty of snow even in the middle of summer.

From Bhagwabasa it is about 5 kms to Roopkund. The stretch isn't long, but the entire bit is on snow patches. At some parts the slope is steep but most parts are easily trekkable.

(A side note here: we were the first group to trek to Roopkund in the summer of 2007. All earlier groups had turned back because they could not negotiate the snow patches. It is not crtical, but carrying an ice-axe could make a big difference. It did to us, because we could cut steps ahead of us. The groups following us had it relatively easy -- they just followed our steps.)Roopkund from Bhagwabasa. The route is marked out in yellow. Where the trail ends in a fold in the mountain is Roopkund. Trishul towers over in the background. Click on image for a bigger picture.

It takes about 2 hrs to climb up to Roopkund. Make it 2½ if you are slow. Ideally, if you have started at 5.00 am then you are going to get to Roopkund by 7.15. The climb is deliriously exhilarating. The last stretch of climbing over the rocky flank on the left, requires some clambering, but is over in 10 mins. The final bend on the snow shoulder will get your hearts pounding. Roopkund is right over the edge, two minutes away and yet you can't see it unless you get there.

Roopkund is like a crater on the side of the mountain face, a dip at the cusp of the mountain. It is much bigger than what most internet pictures suggest. All around are snowy flanks of the mountain. You have to actually climb down 50 ft to reach the edge of the lake. In late summer 2007, when we trekked, the entire lake was frozen and you could walk across from one end to another. And yes, there aren't any signs of any skeleton. Not a single one. Most of them are inside the lake (and no one in their right mind will venture to put in a toe in the frozen lake). The skeletons around the lake have disappeared as souviniers.

All over the internet, Roopkund is reported at 16,500 ft. GPS reading of a fellow trekker and our common sense suggest that Roopkund cannot be more than 15,500 ft. Whatever the altitude, you will feel the thiness of the air getting to you. Climbing a few steps take your breath away.

Getting to Roopkund is meaningless if you don't climb up to Junargali. From Roopkund, the sharp ridge line that towers above you is Junargali. After which it is a 3,000 ft drop to Shila Samudra. Junargali is about 500 ft higher than Roopkund, and it doesn't take much time to get there. The route is over snow that gently inclines upwards until it reaches the face of the mountain. After which it is a steep clamber on the mountain face to reach Junargali. The climb isn't for long, perhaps 200 ft. Gets over in perhaps 10-15 minutes. You just need to rest every few minutes, allowing your breath to get back.

Roopkund trek: Climbing up to Junargali. Roopkund is at the bottom of the picture and Junargali is the ridge line. Mt Nandagunti forms the background. Click on image for a bigger picture.

Doing the Roopkund trek

The Indiahikes team organises treks to Roopkund inMay/June. Why not experience the thrilling trek with like minded friends? For more details log on to www.roopkund.com.

Useful Roopkund Contact information

Narendra, guide. Excellent knowledge of the terrain and knows folklore very well. Also, a great cook. He's the first person you contact. He'll also organise mules and porters if you call him in advance. You can trust him with your life -- and honest to the core. 09411564578

Sub Maj Patwal, owner Patwal Tourist lodge. He can also organise guides and porters for you. Sleeping bags and tents are available with him on hire. Book the lodge in advance by calling 01363280211. His mobile number 09410480308. This is the best option to stay in Lohajung

Mohan Singh Bist, guide, Wan. Danu's nephew. Good and able. However, plan out the route with him first. He will want to take you through Wan-Bedni, instead of Loharjung-Didana-Ali-Bedni. Insist on the later. Mohan, also tends to handle multiple groups at the same time and trekkers often complain. Think of him as your second option if you are not able to secure Narendra first. 01363-280422

Raju Shah, owner of vehicles based in Debal. Can can arrange for pick up and drop from Haldwani/Kathgodam/Rishikesh. Extremely resourceful and rarely fails. His vehicles are always on time. 08979321600.

Roopkund: How to get there

Make Lohajung (2520 mts, 8268 ft) your base camp for the trek, instead of Wan. Most trekkers like to make Wan their base but miss out on the astounding sight of climbing up to Ali Bugyal.

Getting to Lohajung:From Old Delhi station, take the Ranikhet Express that leaves at Eleven in the night. It will get you to Kathgodam which is its final stop. Get down and take a Sumo to Lohajung. The route to Lohajung is via Almora -- Gwaldam -- Tharali -- Debal -- Mundoli -- Lohajung (many Sumo drivers may not know this).

You can bargain a full Sumo for Rs 4000 - 4500. Anything more, you are getting fleeced.

Alternate route:From Delhi get to Rishikesh and hire a Sumo to Lohajung. The route would be through Devprayag -- Rudraprayag -- Karanprayag -- turn right to Tharali -- Debal -- Mundoli -- Lohajung. Fare Rs 4,000 - Rs 4,500 for a full Sumo.

By bus:If you would like to save costs then a combination of bus and shared jeeps is a good option. Take the first early morning bus out of Rishikesh that is heading to Badrinath. By mid-afternoon you should be at Karanprayag. Get down here and take any bus to Tharali (any bus/jeep to Gwaldam will go via Tharali). If bus is hard to come by, take a shared jeep (available near the Karanprayag bus stand). Tharali is by the Pindar river and is about 44 kms from Karanprayag (2 hrs). From Tharali you won't get much of bus options, but you can get plenty of shared jeeps that can take you to Debal. From Debal take another jeep to Lohajung.

My Opinion:The Almora route is anyday better with its green cover, rivers flowing by and Deodar forests. The journey is in itself a nice prelude to the trek and worth every moment of it. The Rishikesh route is crowded and barren. The road is in bad condition and prone to traffic pile-up.

Roopkund: When to trek?

There are two seasons to trek to Roopkund.

In summer the best time to trek to Roopkund is in late May and June. There is only a small window to trek and that's between the 3rd week of May to about the 1st week of July. You cannot trek in these areas in April or early May. It is totally snowbound above Bhagwabasa. June is also lovely to see the twin bugyals of Ali and Bedni. They are lush green and a photographers delight.

Around the 1st week of July, the monsoon sets in. While it is pretty in the rains, it is terrible to trek in them. Your clothes get soggy, your bags heavier, and you feel miserable all the time, waiting for the rain to stop.

Another good time to trek is between the last week of August and the first week of October. The sky is clear and the weather just perfect for a hike. After the 2nd week of October, you are likely to get snowfall and your trek may come to an abrupt end at Bhagwabasa.

Roopkund: Equipment to get

Though you can stay at Forest Rest Houses at Loharjung, Wan and Bedni Bugyal, carry your own equipment on this trek. It gives you greater flexibility.

Things to get (for a team of 3):

1 Four men tent1 Two men tent (for your guide/porter)Sleeping bags with inners65 liters backpack with good straps1 Ice Axe (optional)

You can get these equipment on hire. Nowadays you can hire most equipment in Lohajung. Mr Patwal, of Patwal Lodge is a good resource for equipment. 01363280211.

Note: In peak trekking seasons equipment may be difficult to hire at Lohajung. It is best then got from Dehradun/Delhi.

Me

A bit about me

Arjun Majumdar. An entrepreneur by profession and a trekker by passion. Every year I try to throw in a trek that's interesting, different and a route not frequented much. The Roopkund trek featured here is one such. For any trek advice email me at arjunmajumdar@gmail.com

Roopkund trek: Diary Extract (Loharjung to Didna)

We start from Loharjung at 9.30. The walk to Kulling is on the road to Wan. Good walk to loosen the limbs.

Great views from the road. At a bend on the road, Kulling comes into view, a patchwork of white on green steps of farms. A picture postacrd setting. Kulling 2520 mts.

We eat Lichies and begin our decent to the river. We lose about 600-700 ft and cross the river on a steel bridge. The river is fed from a waterfall. The view is awe inspiring.

We start climbing to Didna. It's not an easy climb, neither too steep. After a while I find Shashibhai struggling. A bit too early for my liking. It's hardly 10 minutes into the climb.

My worry about Shashibhai increases further more as I find him lagging quite a bit. Thoughts of our Tapovan trek flash through my mind -- he struggled there too. Plans, back-up plans begin to form in my mind -- nothing concrete but a shape; an idea.

Mukeshbhai is struggling too. Both of them are quite out of shape. I can see they haven't done much to keep themselves fit.

An hour into the climb I find Srinivas going slow. I am confused. He doesn't look tired, but he's at the end of the pack. I catch up with him. It looks, he's struggling too -- and he makes no bones about it. He's frank about his symptoms.

We make it to Didna camping ground in 3:45 minutes. A good time considering the fitness level of everyone.

Didna camping ground is above the village, a clearing in the forest, a patch of carpet grass, half a football field size. The open view of Loharjung, Kulling and Wan on the other side is interesting. You can see the road snaking its way through every fold and crease of the mountain.

What's more interesting is the light and shade game the sun's playing on the scene. Suddenly you see a spot of light on Kulling, it shifts, lights up the road.

Lunch takes time to cook. We eat only at 4.30.

After lunch we think of exploring Tolpani. It's 1½ hrs away. I plan to go a little distance before heading the group back. We may not have enough time to go all the way to Tolpani.

It's a climb all the way. Again, Shashibhai doesn't want to go further. I egg him on and point to a clearing just ahead. The clearing turns out to be an edge on a cliff. The drop is a 1,000 ft. The view is intoxicating. Even stepping near the cliff edge makes you feel heady.

After a while I find Srinivas and Ajay not with the group. I ask around and find they have gone ahead.

I send Nishant and Naren to look for them. Their turnaround is 10 minutes. The boys come back with no sign of them. I am getting concerned. The sun's likely to go behind the hills any moment now. I want them back in the camp before dark. I have a sneaky feeling that they could have gone to Tolpani, a shepherd's hut 3 kms ahead and 1,000 ft higher.

Subhankar and I ask the boys to wait for us at the cliff edge clearing, while we go ahead to look for them. We start climbing hoping to catch up with them soon.

The climb doesn't get over -- but it gets interesting. We climb through Cedar forests. It's a carpet of brown. But the climb doesn't end.

I am upset and angry. Ajay and Srinivas have ventured out too far without the group.

40 minutes and a beautiful climb later we reach Tolpani. We find the two of them there. I give them a piece of my mind.

They rush down quickly. Together we reach Didna in ½ hr. Later that evening all of us gather around and chat in our tents. It's mostly raw jokes. We get to bed by 10.30.

Roopkund trek: Diary Extract (Didna to Bedni bugyal)

17 June. An overcast morning. Outside temp 11°C.

Ajay is leading the slower ones for the trek to Ali. They leave at 6.30.

We leave at 8.10

The route makes it way through the upper reaches of Didana village, and then starts to climb, climb and climb.After an hour, we stop to eat breakfast. Narendra, our guide tells me there's an equal amount of climb left.

Subhankar is uneasy after the rest. His limbs have lost the rhythm of the earlier climb.

40 minutes more into the climb, we leave the fringes of the tree line -- and the magic of Ali Bugyal hits us. The meadows are green and beautiful beyond words. They stretch in every direction, an undulation of green carpet. I climb a little higher and a tiny pond. The green of the meadows, the grey of the pond and the dark clouds beyond. Mesmerising.

Whiff of clouds glide in from below, slide over the meadows and run down the other side.

A while later I come across little ponies frolicking about the glades. Scampering here and running there -- uncaring, wild and free.

This truly is a dream.

The sky's got darker, a hint of rain. We get out our raincoats. But the rain does not hold. After a while the sky gets dark again. This time it begins to pour.

I quicken my steps. I don't want to be totally wet before I reach Bedni. I guess Bedni can't be more than ½ hour away. Subhankar is lost somewhere behind. I walk alone.

A bend in the hills and suddenly through a fold in the hills I spot Bedni. Some huts and our tents pitched. The rain's heavier now. Where I stand, the trail forks. Upwards I guess it must head to Bhagwabasa. Below -- it was Bedni. But it was no path -- just a walk on grass. In this rain, Shashibhai and Subhankar could get confused. I decide to wait for them. After 5 minutes in the rain, they join me. Together, we walk down to Bedni. Even in the rain, Bedni is strikingly beautiful. clumps of colourful tents in the carpet of green, awash with the grey of the rain.

I duck into a tea house, feeling the rain creeping down my back. I don't like the idea of getting wet. Someone hands me a glass of steaming tea. Away from the rain, nothing could be more bliss.

I notice Subhankar soaking in the moment. The wonder of the sight overwhelms him. He stands rooted, oblivious of the rain around him. I call out several times, but he is in his own transfixed world. After a while he slowly makes his way to the tea stall. I can make out by his expression that this had been an extremely moving moment for him.

The rain abates after a while and we make our way to our tents.

Later in the evening, the clouds lift and the late evening sun beams through. Bedni is awash with a golden hue. A sight we hope our camera's can capture. We climb to a nearby hillock and soak in the atmosphere.

Subhankar, I can see still hasn't recovered and he wanders off alone. Shashibhai shoots the last few frames from my camera. I change rolls and go looking for Subhankar. The others head back to camp.

I find him sitting alone on a rock on the edge of a slope. He pretends he hasn't noticed me. I notice a flock of sheep heading up towards the slope. I quickly becone Subhankar to follow me. I can sense a wonderful photo-op here. We scramble down the slope.

I skirt around the flock and shoot off a few pics as they graze about.

I find myself under a rocky overhang. Unbelieveably some sheep climb up the overhang and look down at me. With Trishul in the background I click them.

A few more shots later, we head back to camp. The sun and twilight hang about until 8.15 in the evening.

Roopkund trek: Diary Extract (Bedni Bugyal to Bhagwabasa)

I decide next morning Srinivas will lead the weaker team to Bhagwabasa. He'll have Shashibhai, Mukeshbhai, Govibhai and Shaky with him.

At 6.30 am they set off. I follow them with my eye on the slopes above Bedni. They are slow initially but gather speed after a kilometer.

Ajay is getting impatient. He loves to get his feet moving and hates being held back by slower folks. I allow him to go after an hour. He quickly disappears from sight behind the Bedni kund. He's taking a short cut. I am thinking of the same route for myself too.

Half hour later, Subhankar, the kids and I follow them. A brilliant morning, bright sunlight. A day couldn't be better for trekking.

We are climbing up to 14,500 ft. I have no idea when the steep climb is going to begin. With my eye I cannot see beyond the saddle on the slopes above and until there it seems an easy trek.

We trace a diagonal route to join the main trail to Bhagwabasa. It's a bit off a puff, but we save ½ hr of trekking time.

Just as we are getting into the saddle, I find Ajay running towards me. He says Shashibhai's in trouble. He can't go on.

I don't like this turn of events. My mind is already churning out alternate plans -- but I hope things are not as serious as Shashibhai turning back.

I find Shashibhai sitting down at the pass. He looks winded. He tells me he's turning back. I can't believe it.

I try to cajole him to carry on, but he's firm. He can't go on and he doesn't want to jeopardise the team. My heart's heavy. Shashibhai was with me from the planning stage. A sentence from his email echo's in my mind -- he would take a bath in Roopkund if he ever got there! And now Roopkund was still two days away.

he turns to go back. Tears well up in my eyes. Not sure what to do, I decide to accompany him someway back to Bedni. I ask others to carry on. While retracing our steps, I give final instructions to Shashibhai, telling him what to do at Bedni. with a final goodbye and shake of hands Shashibhai moves away. I am furious with myself. This can't be happening. Not Shashibhai.

Shashibhai's just about to round the corner, I yell out to him. He stops and turns around. I cup my hands and shout out that he's coming with me to Bhagwabasa. I tell him no matter what I would stick with him and together we could make it to Bhagwabasa. He's unsure and says it would be better to turn back.

I enthuse him further and a smile breaks out on his face. It must have been hard for him to turn back as well. He starts retracing his steps -- and his mind starts working as well. He quickly suggests that if things go bad, he can always get our mules to carry him. I couldn't agree with him more! With a joyous step we start on our way to Bhagwabasa.

A while later, the group sights us and gives out a loud hoop. Everyone's thrilled to see Shashibhai back.

Slowly we make our way to Ghora Lotauni. At the end of Ghora Lotauni meadows, the trail starts to climb sharply. Our mule train catches us from behind. Shashibhai instructs the mule driver to come back for him as soon as he has unloaded our camping gear at Bhagwabasa. I know it is going to take a while for them to do that. We may have to wait long.

At Patal Nachauni we start climbing. But Shashibhai is resting every twenty steps. I am not too worried. I know even at this pace, we can make it to Bhagwabasa in time.

A little above Patal Nachauni, Shashibhai says he would rather wait for the mules than carry on. He just can't go on any further. I decide to wait with him for the mule. I ask the others to carry on up the trail. It's a climb and I don't want them to wait in the cold.

Shashibhai and I sit down on the grass and chat this and that. A while later a group from Bangalore comes down the trail. I recognise them -- they have been emailing me before the trek. One of them needed my help with the logistics of the trek.

They have not been able to go all the way to Roopkund. The route's closed and there's lot of snow. I am not too perturbed to hear this. Our team is quite prepared for such a thing. After chatting for half an hour, the Bangalore team leaves for Bedni.

Shashibhai and I have been sitting for more than an hour and half. The wait is too much for Shashibhai. It is better to walk than wait for the mule in the cold.

We start climbing and I plug into my mp3 player. Shashibhai is too slow for me and I need a distraction from the slow pace. Shashibhai is still struggling. But after 20 minutes we spot our mules thundering down the slope from above. Help is finally at hand.

Shashibhai hops on and he's on his way. It is a bit funny to watch him perched on the mule with nothing to hold on to. No stirrup either. The trail is steep and I wonder what's going to happen if Shashibhai falls off. I wonder about our mule too. Shashibhai is not exactly light.

Alone, I quicken my pace. I can see Kalu Vinayak from where I stand. It's about 700-800 ft above me. Not a big climb but I don't like the cold clouds that drift in now and then. Also I can feel the air getting thinner. I plug into my mp3 player and listen to classic pop that I haven't heard for a long time.

It doesn't take me long to reach Kalu vinayak. From there it is about 2 kms to Bhagwabasa. The trail slopes down and it's a easy walk. I come across our first patch of show. I gingerly step in testing the show for softness. It is not very firm. I skip my way over it -- careful not to sink in. On the next snow patch, I skirt around not attempting to even skip over it.

In 10 minutes I am in camp at Hunia Thal, a spot 5 minutes ahead of Bhagwabasa. It is a cold, desolate rocky flat. I am surprised we are able to camp here, but there is no other place. It's next to a big snow patch.

Later, in the evening, we have another play of lights with the sun. The sky clears up and the Trishul and Nandaghunti shine in its brilliance. The route to Roopkund is now clear on the snowy flanks of the mountainside. 2,000 ft higher, it looks a bit daunting. My eyes follow the trail but after a while it disappears into the ice. Ajay and I debate the route with no clear conclusion.

I announce to the team that we are going to attempt Roopkund at four in the morning when the snow is hard and easy to climb.

Roopkund trek: Mesmerising Ali Bugyal

First views of Ali Bugyal. If you are lucky, the clouds in the background will give way to Nandagunti and Trishul towering over Ali.

Roopkund trek: Horses grazing

Horses wild and free at Ali

Roopkund trek: Bedni Aglow

The sun setting over the Bedni camp site. Time 7.30 pm. The light intense.

Roopkund trek: Corral in the hills

Sheep get in to the corral at night. In the morning they are out grazing.

Roopkund trek: Trail from Kalu Vinayak to Bhagwabasa

The trail is a gentle easy walk through pathes of snow to Bhagwabasa. 2 kms and ½ hr later you are at Bhagwabasa

Roopkund trek: Roopkund frozen

An unusual angle of Roopkund. Rarely seen in photographs. On the far left is the trail that leads up to Roopkund

Roopkund trek: Junargali snow fields

View from Junargali. These are the imposing snow fields that awaits you when you step on Junargali