Siouxsie Sioux

by Cristina Stendardo

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Born in London in 1957, Siouxsie Sioux (born Susan Janet Ballion) was a restless girl who experienced the youth unrest and social discontent that typified the Thatcher period. While still very young, she became part of the Bromley Contingent, a group of unconventional, anti-conformist followers of an emerging British punk band, the Sex Pistols. Dressed in leather, fishnet stockings and high heels, she made flamboyant appearances in London’s most controversial clubs, giving a touch of glamour to the bondage style, which up to then had been seen as too extreme a look. Her friends Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren decided to create the provocative SEX, the first real leather clothing shop. This was not just a clothes store: it became the nerve centre of British clothing and fashion, and was central to a whole way of thinking. But for Siouxsie just being seen wasn’t enough. She wanted a career in music, singing in particular – and she became a massive success. With Severin on bass and Budgie on drums, she formed the Banshees.

Their first single, “Hong Kong Garden”, was an unexpected success. Different guitarists, including Robert Smith of The Cure, took turns for the band. The early records are full of all the rage of that time, and the heavy eye make-up and backcombed black hair did the rest. The band was so famous that their fans across the whole country began to copy her. She voice, instantly recognisable, became more refined with time, and Siouxsie became the undisputed star of the British New Wave. Her concerts were theatrical performances, with countless costume changes. Siouxsie was an “animal” on the stage. The intense Live Nocturne at London’s prestigious Royal Albert Hall became a much sought-after recording for fans of the genre. She was successful abroad as well: there were endless collaborations with artists from around the world, Morrissey and Basement Jaax to name just two. The director Tim Burton, who had always been a fan, asked her to record the soundtrack to Batman. In the 90s, her style changed again. The heavy make-up and long backcombed mane disappeared, to be replaced by a more elegant black bob and cherry red lipstick. She herself has said she’s fascinated by the stars of silent cinema of the 30s. After a long line of chart-topping records, she released Peek-a-Boo in 1998, the best album of her career for its musical sophistication and modern vocals. The elegant black and white video to the first single, directed by John Mathieson, is a tribute to contemporary art.

Many of the singles from this album are still being used for the soundtracks of fashion shows. Bouncing back from divorce from her partner Budgie, Siouxsie moved to Paris and in 2007 created her first solo work, Mantaray. “I feel a force I've never felt before/I can't hold it down I've just got to soar/And laugh in the face that is vulture law/I burst out – I’m transformed/I burst right out – into a swan/I burst out into a swan,” sings the queen of metamorphosis. Despite all the changes though, she has kept her unmistakable style. She is a style icon for a new generation (such as Pam Hogg). Among her best tracks is the cover of the Beatles’ song Dear Prudence. The video for it was shot in Italy with Siouxsie wandering languidly through the streets of Venice dressed like a fabulous gothic geisha with dark blue eyes.