Create a healthy lawn by starting over

Let's get this
straight right
from the get-go:
A healthy lawn doesn't
get taken over by weeds.
So if it looks like you're
raising weeds instead of
grass, that's a sign of a
more serious problem.
And that may mean
killing off the grass and
starting over. It's a big
project that'll take several
weekends and may
cost you up to 25¢ per
sq. ft. for equipment
rentals, soil conditioners
and seed. If you're willing
to spend more, you
can lay sod instead of
planting seed, but don't
skip the soil testing and
remediation steps.

Are you ready for a
fresh start? Just follow
our guide and you'll be
the happiest gnomeowner
on your block.

Evaluate Your Lawn

Going “nuclear” shouldn't be your
first option. Instead, start with spot
applications of weed killer, dethatching
and core aeration. But if you still
see more than 60 percent weeds at
the start of the next growing season,
your lawn is too far gone to save. Your
best option is to nuke it and replant.

Note: To find out how to dethatch and aerate for greener, healthier grass, search for “lawn.”

Step 1: Get a soil analysis

Collect samples for a soil test

Plunge your spade about 6 in. deep and pull out
a plug of soil. Then slice off a section of the plug
(top to bottom). Remove the grass and rocks
and mix all the samples together.

Don't even think about replanting
until you get the results of a soil
analysis (cost is usually less than
$20). Contact a local extension
service or search the Internet for
a soil-testing lab near you. Select
three different locations around
your lawn and collect samples.
Mix them together and scoop into
a container. Note on the lab form
that you'll be planting new grass
and whether you bag the clippings
when you mow or return them to
the lawn. In a couple of weeks,
you'll get a report with recommendations
about which fertilizers or
soil treatments to add.

Step 2: Kill everything

Photo 1: Kill the grass with plastic

Photo 2: ...Or kill it with herbicide

Cover nearby plants with
a tarp. Choose a calm day
and hold the spray head
close to the grass to prevent
overspray.

You can kill the grass with chemicals
like Roundup or Killzall. But if
you hate the idea of using chemicals
and have a large area, rent
a sod cutter to remove the lawn
surface. Or kill the grass by blocking
out its sunlight with black poly film
(4-mil or thicker; about $100 for a 28-ft. x
100-ft. roll). Remove the poly when
the grass is dry and brown (two to
three weeks or longer, depending on
the weather).

Step 4: Improve the soil

Till in the soil conditioners

Spread the conditioners
across the entire lawn.
Then till them into the soil
to a depth of about 5 in.

Don't think you can fix bad soil just
by adding a few inches of black soil
on top of the old. Instead, rent a
tiller (about $45 per day) to till in
the soil conditioners recommended
by the soil analysis.

Step 6: Add a starter fertilizer

Jump-start the seed

Spread lawn starter fertilizer into the furrows
with a spreader. Don't overdo it.

A starter fertilizer gives grass seed
the nutrients it needs to germinate
and grow quickly. Consult with a
local nursery to find the best starter
fertilizer for the seed you select.
Follow the instructions on the bag for
the proper spread rate for a new lawn
and apply the fertilizer.

Step 7: Pick seed to match your site

Consult with the grass expert at a
garden center to select a seed that
matches your site conditions, lawn
care preferences and budget. Ask
about the newer low-maintenance
and drought-resistant varieties.
Purchase grass seed by the bag or
in bulk, by the pound. But buy just
what you need. Don't apply the
leftover seed—extra seed actually
reduces the germination rate.

Step 8: Prepare the seed

Mix the seed

Pour the seed and fertilizer
into a plastic bucket and mix it
thoroughly.

To avoid applying too much seed,
mix the seed (4:1 ratio) with a fertilizer/
bulking agent (Milorganite is
one brand; about $15 for a 36-lb. bag).

When to Plant

There are good and bad times of
year for starting a project like this. in
cold climates, plant new grass seed
in early spring as the lawns are just
coming out of winter (early to mid-April)
or late summer from about
mid-august to mid-September. in
warm-weather climates, plant in late
spring/early summer. if you're not
sure, contact your local extension
service to get planting advice from a
turf expert.

Step 9: Spread the seed

Photo 1: Cover the seed

Turn the broom
rake upside
down and drag
it side-to-side
over the furrows
until only
10 to 15 percent
of the seed
remains
uncovered.

Photo 2: Compact the soil

Fill a sod roller halfway
with water and roll the
seed to pack the soil and
seed mixture.

Load the seed into a spreader and
apply it. Make sure it doesn't fly into
nearby gardens. Rake to cover the
furrows as shown. Then compact
the soil with a sod roller (rent one
for about $20 per day) to get good
seed-to-soil contact.

Note: To learn how to use a spreader fertilizer and reseed your lawn, search for “fertilizer.”

Step 10: Add mulch or grass seed accelerator

Spread the seed accelerator

Set the spreader to
the widest setting
and walk quickly to
get a light application
of the pellets.

Close-up of seed accelerator

This accelerator absorbs moisture and slowly releases it.

Cover the soil with compost mulch
to retain water during germination.
Or apply a “grass seed accelerator”
(one brand is GreenView, greenviewfertilizer.com; about $22 for 30
lbs., which covers 600 sq. ft.). The
accelerator absorbs more moisture
than either mulch or hay and then
slowly releases it. It also degrades
naturally, eliminating cleanup.

Step 11: Water, but not too much

Water regularly

Place an impact sprinkler in the
corner of the lawn and set it to
spray in a quarter arc. Then move
it to the other corners.

Water the new lawn generously
right after the mulch application,
but stop as soon as you see puddles
forming. Then keep the soil moist
to a depth of 4 to 6 in. for best germination.
Keep watering regularly
as the seedlings appear and grow.
Gradually reduce the watering over
a six-week period. Then switch to
your normal watering routine.

“Most people overwater
new seed.
Just keep the soil
damp for the best
germination.”Bob Mugaas, Turf Expert

Step 12: Cut the grass with TLC

Make the first cut

Mow the new lawn
once it reaches a
height of 3 in. Use
a newly sharpened
blade—it's healthiest
for the grass. Cut just
1/2 in. per mowing.

Set the cutting height to 2-1/2 in.
Use a new or sharpened blade to
make sharp, clean slicing cuts.
Avoid using a dull blade—it rips the
grass, setting up the conditions for
disease.

Note: Find out how to sharpen a lawn mower blade. Search for “sharpen blade.”

Meet Our Grass Guru

Bob Mugaas is an
Extension Educator in
Horticulture with the
University of Minnesota
Extension. Bob has
authored or co-authored
more than 200 articles on
various topics related to
turf grass management.