A workshop focusing on creative and sustainable ways for mordants and other auxiliaries to bond color to fibers, such as wool and silk. Explore local dyes and colors used by local artisans in and around Oaxaca, and learn how to use various mordants to realize optimal colors.

Experience: some experience using natural dyes

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Michel Garcia is a botanist, chemist, dyer, and naturalist. He is the founder of Couleur Garance (1998) in Lauris, France, and established Le Jardin Conservatoire de Plantes Tinctoriales (Botanical Garden of Dye Plants) in 2000 as a horticultural resource for chemists, natural dye researchers, and botanists. He has been instrumental in revitalizing the natural dye practice in France and abroad. Michel collaborated with Yoshiko I. Wada to create a series of educational DVDs for sustainable natural dyeing.

The folding of fabric in various patterns opens endless possibilities for shibori techniques. This workshop focuses on using pleated and folded modular pieces and lengths of fabric before applying shibori techniques such as stitching and clamp resist to achieve an array of designs.

The techniques covered include traditional Katano shibori by hand stitching through accordion pleats, machine stitching through folded modular pieces, and changing the density of stitches in certain areas to block and channel the dye. The use of wooden boards in contemporary itajime and carved boards in classical kyokechi offer other mesmerizing geometric variations. Students can explore a variety of substrates in different weights and weaves along with the comparative use of chemical and natural dyes.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Ana Lisa’s signature shibori textiles are included in the collections of the Cooper Hewitt, The Museum of Art and Design, the De Young Museum, the Oakland Museum, and the Racine Museum. She has completed public art commissions for the Emeryville CA city hall and the American Embassy in Brunei. Teaching engagements include SF State University and CCA. She has received two NEA grants and is a fellow of The American Craft Council.

The effect of layered patterns can be created on the surface or within the fabric by experimenting with the intricate chemical properties of dyes and pigments. Color can be layered, transpired, and removed. Explore complex images through printing with silkscreen, and then transform and create new patterns with the bold geometry of itajime shibori, using folding and clamp resist. The complexity of the design is revealed by the chemical interactions between printed and vat dyes.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

For the last seven years, Elsa Chartin has worked with different ways of shaping patterns by folding and dying. Shown in exhibitions in Sweden and abroad, her work reveals an interest in pattern, narrative, and craft, mixing itajime with textile printing and exploring the layering possibilities from meticulously folding and dyeing fabric. She has taught at various design and fine art schools in Sweden. http://www.elsachartin.com/

This workshop will provide an introduction to two Indian fine embroidery techniques. Use the aari hooked needle to create aari embroidery as practiced in the royal courts of the Mughal empire, building beautiful expressions of color and line from repeated fine chain stitches in silk thread. Learn to cut your own decorative mirrors and affix them using a variety of stitches to create your own interpretation of the unique art of shisha (also called “mirror-work” or abla) embroidery.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Born in Ahmedabad, a city renowned for its rich culture and textile heritage, Asif Shaikh took up needle and thread at the age of ten when embroidery was rarely pursued by young boys. As he perfected his stitches, he would try to recreate the motifs of old embroideries in all their fine and lavish detail. As years passed, his engagement with the beautiful world of embroidery became stronger and his practice and technical insight deeper. Asif has revived historical embroideries for organizations such as UNESCO Parzor, and runs his own artisan studio in Ahmedabad.

Japanese beni, safflower red, has been an obsession of Japanese women for over 1,000 years. The dye is treasured for the color it gives to clothes and cosmetics. This workshop explores the various crimson reds and buttery yellows one can achieve from the petals of the enigmatic safflower.

Draw out yellow pigment from the safflower on silk and wool with alum and iron mordants. Then dye silk and cotton cloth with red pigments, obtaining a variety of reds with potassium carbonate, citric acid, or vinegar. On the third day, learn how to magically move the red pigment out of a cotton “dye bank” by changing the pH and create a beautiful pure red on silk.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Dr. Yamazaki of Kusaki-Kobo Dye Studio is descended from three generations of natural dyers and researchers in Japan. He started teaching and creating artwork with natural dyes in 1985 and has since been active in research and education of natural dyes in Japan and abroad.

Having a valuable supply of interesting fabrics at your fingertips is the key to designing fresh and exciting work. This workshop will cover skills not commonly taught in natural dye classes, but essential to creating intricate layers of design that carry your personal signature. Employ clamp compression on silk with sericin erasure to produce repetitive motifs, learn how to apply carbon sumi ink to fabric, and create three-dimensional colorful embellishments through traditional feltmaking. Each half-day class focuses on building layers of design elements (color, texture, line) to create a small felted scarf.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Jorie Johnson was introduced to traditional textile technique in Finland in 1977 and was immediately enchanted by the magic and power of felting. Since 1987, she has lived in Kyoto, Japan, where she established her textile studio, Joi Rae.

After studying industrial textile design (weaving and printing) for fashion and interiors Jorie found her compatible expression in fiber through the traditional medium of feltmaking. Jorie has developed her own innovative expression of the 8,000-year-old Central-Asian technique of feltmaking–felt being the first textile created by man. Jorie exhibits her contemporary feltworks in galleries, shops, and museums, and teaches workshops around the world.

If you are a weaver, knitter, quilter, or embroiderer, this workshop will add a greater depth to your creative expression through sustainable natural dyeing practice. Mixed-fiber fabrics combining silk, wool, cotton, and even polyester through weaving, knitting, piecing, or embroidering provide great “canvases” for complex dye effects. Explore the use of natural dyes for cross-dyeing (creating a pattern over different fibers), mordant printing, and simple and woven shibori resists to emphasize effects. Experiment with a variety of samples including custom fabrics designed by Ellis. Our natural dye palette includes indigo blue, rhubarb yellow, and cochineal red.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Catharine Ellis has always combined both weaving and dyeing in her work. Since she first studied with Michel Garcia 10 years ago, she became inspired to pursue natural dyeing further by researching and developing new applications for the use of natural dyes in her teaching and textiles. Catharine is the author of Woven Shibori (Interweave Press, 2005). A new, updated version of the book, focused on natural dyes, will be released in 2016.

11/12 – 11/14 | 14:00 – 17:30 | CASA | $275 (+$30 materials fee)

Bandhani (from the Sanskrit word banda, “to tie”) dyeing, mainly practiced in Gujarat and Rajasthan, involves a number of refined processes from design to tracing to tying. Learn the basics of bandhani from a renowned artisan of a new generation who will guide you through the possibilities for dimensional transformation and original design within a traditional art form.

Experience: beginning to advanced

N.B. Workshops at CASA include shuttle transport to/from MTO and the opportunity to work independently in the Taller Arte Papel papermaking studio. Details on the venues page.

Jabbar Khatri belongs to the Khatri community of skilled dyers who have practiced their traditional art since the 4th century, their historical production including tie- and paste-resist dyeing, block printing, and silk-screening. Although Jabbar’s family was not involved in textile work (his great-grandfather produced fireworks for the royal family, his grandfather was in the bicycle business, and his father was a banker), Jabbar independently pursued the Khatri textile tradition and continues to sustain his community’s ancient skills through his teaching and textile designs.

Shuttle: CASA – MTO

11/12 – 11/14 | 18:00 | CASA

Tuesday, November 15

Registration and Information Desk

11/15 – 11/19 | 9:30 – 15:30 | Centro Cultural San Pablo

1 Day Workshop with Alejandro de Ávila: “How We Name Dyestuffs and Fibers: Linnaean Classification vs. New Taxonomy” *at capacity; waitlist open*

This workshop follows a collective reflection on three examples (prickly pear cacti, century plants, and shellfish purple) and what these organisms are called in various languages. Afterward there will be an examination of how these plants and animals were classified by Carl Linnaeus and his followers, using Latin binomials. An exploration into why in each of these cases the scientific name that has been used since the 1700’s or 1800’s (Opuntia, Agave, Purpura) can no longer hold, and the implications of the current situation in which the composition of each group is in flux.

Experience: interest in botany and natural dye is important

Dr. Alejandro de Ávila is the co-chair of the 10th ISS, founding director of the Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden, as well as curator, researcher, advisor and one of the founders of the Oaxaca Textile Museum.

Guided Tour: Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

11/15 | 11:00 – 13:00 | Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

First come, first served, guided tour of the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca.

Reception: Christina Kim

11/15 | 15:00 – 16:00 | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Shuttle: MTO – CASA

11/12 – 11/14 | 16:30 | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Reception: Artists’ Reception and Talk for Contemporary Art of Shibori and Ikat, Wearable Art and New Beat: International Student Competition – Wearable Art

Wednesday, November 16

Opening Keynote Performance & Presentations

The opening keynote presentations for the 10iss will feature a short runway show with both traditional Mexican costume and contemporary design, opening remarks from a panel of speakers, and a performance with live music.

Reception: Featherwork

11/16 | 12:00 – 14:00 | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

This exhibition will feature rare and contemporary woven featherwork, created from research done by the museum referencing a textile fragment of the eighteenth century.

Reception: World Shibori and Ikat

11/16 | 12:00 – 14:00 | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Various examples of shibori and ikat from the MTO collection from regions around the world.

This indigo workshop and demonstration covers various ways to work with indigo plants and dyestuffs. The Japanese technique of creating a fermented sukimo indigo vat will be explained. Demonstrations include alternative ancient methods of cooking indigo leaves and creating a vat, and namaba-zome (fresh leaf indigo dyeing). Michel Garcia will demonstrate making the mysterious blue pigment, Azul Maya (Maya Blue) using organic indigo dye powder and clay.Experience: beginning to advanced

Dr. Yamazaki of Kusaki-Kobo Dye Studio comes from three generations of natural dyers and researchers in Japan. He started teaching and creating artwork with natural dyes in 1985 and has since been active in research and education about natural dyes in Japan and abroad.

A workshop with artisans from San Pedro Cajonos, Oaxaca who work with hand-spun, locally raised silk, dye with natural dyes, and have been experimenting with ikat and shibori techniques for several years. The focus is on hand-spinning silk with the drop-spindle, and dyeing with the recipes the artisans use for cochineal and indigo. Each participant will leave with a drop-spindle, some un-spun and spindled silk, and some spun silk brought by the weavers from Cajonos and dyed during the workshop with cochineal and indigo.

Experience: some experience in spinning and dyeing is desirable

Moisés Martínez, from the Zapotec village of San Pedro Cajonos, Oaxaca, specializes in silk dyeing and weaving on the back-strap loom. He works with silk that is grown locally and, along with his family, produces rebozos (shawls) and huipiles (female tunics). Among the dyes he uses are cochineal, indigo, and brazilwood.

Guided Tour: Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

11/17 | 11:00 – 13:00 | Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

First come, first served, guided tour of the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca.

This indigo workshop and demonstration covers various ways to work with indigo plants and dyestuffs. The Japanese technique of creating a fermented sukimo indigo vat will be explained. Demonstrations include alternative ancient methods of cooking indigo leaves and creating a vat, and namaba-zome (fresh leaf indigo dyeing). Michel Garcia will demonstrate making the mysterious blue pigment, Azul Maya (Maya Blue) using organic indigo dye powder and clay.

Experience: beginning to advanced

Dr. Yamazaki of Kusaki-Kobo Dye Studio comes from three generations of natural dyers and researchers in Japan. He started teaching and creating artwork with natural dyes in 1985 and has since been active in research and education about natural dyes in Japan and abroad.

Demonstration: Indian Embroidery and Tying Bandhani with Asif Shaikh and Jabbar Khatri

11/17 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/17 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/17 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/17 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/17 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/17 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/17 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Social: Shibori Social

11/17 | 17:30 – 19:30 | Hotel Casa Oaxaca | $20

Come for discussion and relaxation on the open-air patio within the colonial architecture of Hotel Casa Oaxaca, where you can see local art among vibrant and regional plants and flowers. Ticket cost includes appetizers. Drinks for purchase on-site: aguas frescas (55 MXN) and mezcal drinks (110 MXN).

A workshop with artisans from San Pedro Cajonos, Oaxaca who work with hand-spun, locally raised silk, dye with natural dyes, and have been experimenting with ikat and shibori techniques for several years. The focus is on hand-spinning silk with the drop-spindle, and dyeing with the recipes the artisans use for cochineal and indigo. Each participant will leave with a drop-spindle, some un-spun and spindled silk, and some spun silk brought by the weavers from Cajonos and dyed during the workshop with cochineal and indigo.

Experience: some experience in spinning and dyeing is desirable

Moisés Martínez, from the Zapotec village of San Pedro Cajonos, Oaxaca, specializes in silk dyeing and weaving on the back-strap loom. He works with silk that is grown locally and, along with his family, produces rebozos (shawls) and huipiles (female tunics). Among the dyes he uses are cochineal, indigo, and brazilwood.

During the Spanish colonial period Oaxaca was the major center for the lucrative production of and trade in grana—cochineal dye. Especially in Oaxaca, the historical knowledge and practice of cochineal production and dyeing have been carried on by indigenous populations. Michel Garcia will focus on the enigmatic red colors and present different processes using conventional mineral alum, plant alum, tannin and citrus, and other auxillary plant materials to bind the color onto various fibers (wool, silk, and cotton), and discover shades of crimson to coral pink to maroon, with cochineal.

Experience: natural dye experience is desirable

Michel Garcia is a botanist, chemist, dyer, and naturalist. He is the founder of Couleur Garance (1998) in Lauris, France, and established Le Jardin Conservatoire de Plantes Tinctoriales (Botanical Garden of Dye Plants) in 2000 as a horticultural resource for chemists, natural dye researchers, and botanists. He has been instrumental in revitalizing the natural dye practice in France and abroad. Michel collaborated with Yoshiko I. Wada to create a series of educational DVDs for sustainable natural dyeing.http://www.michelgarcia.fr/ and https://naturaldyeworkshop.com/

Demonstration: Indian Embroidery and Tying Bandhani

with Asif Shaikh and Jabbar Khatri

11/18 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/18 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/18 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: Jaspe Rebozo on a Backstrap Loom with Arturo Estrada

11/18 | 16:00 – 17:00 | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/18 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/18 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/18 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Discussion Forum: Theme TBD

11/18 | 16:00 – 18:00 | Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Saturday, November 19

This workshop is to introduce easy and simple methods of shibori to children. Resist dyeing will be demonstrated using rubber bands, rubber or styrofoam balls, and various types of string for tying. Each child will go home with their own shibori bandana, dyed in a natural indigo vat. Examples from other children’s workshops in Japan will be shown for inspiration.

Experience: all levels are welcome

To register please email the Museo Textil de Oaxaca (info@mto.org.mx) with the subject line “Indigo Earth Workshop”.

The rebozo is a historical but timeless garment worn by women throughout Mexico. This workshop will provide an in-depth perspective on jaspe (ikat) and the rebozo, looking at both historical and contemporary textiles. Luis Rodríguez Martínez, a third-generation rebocero (rebozo weaver), will review the rich history of rebozos in Tenancingo, explain the process of weaving, and shed light on his own design process and the elements of his unique patterning. Museo Textil de Oaxaca Director Hector Meneses will join to take a closer look at over thirty rebozos from the MTO collections, including many designed by Señor Rodríguez as well as historical examples.

Guided Tour: Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

11/19 | 11:00 – 13:00 | Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

First come, first served, guided tour of the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca.

During the Spanish colonial period Oaxaca was the major center for the lucrative production of and trade in grana—cochineal dye. Especially in Oaxaca, the historical knowledge and practice of cochineal production and dyeing have been carried on by indigenous populations. Michel Garcia will focus on the enigmatic red colors and present different processes using conventional mineral alum, plant alum, tannin and citrus, and other auxillary plant materials to bind the color onto various fibers (wool, silk, and cotton), and discover shades of crimson to coral pink to maroon, with cochineal.

Experience: natural dye experience is desirable

Michel Garcia is a botanist, chemist, dyer, and naturalist. He is the founder of Couleur Garance (1998) in Lauris, France, and established Le Jardin Conservatoire de Plantes Tinctoriales (Botanical Garden of Dye Plants) in 2000 as a horticultural resource for chemists, natural dye researchers, and botanists. He has been instrumental in revitalizing the natural dye practice in France and abroad. Michel collaborated with Yoshiko I. Wada to create a series of educational DVDs for sustainable natural dyeing.http://www.michelgarcia.fr/ and https://naturaldyeworkshop.com/

Seminar Session: Tejido Amarrado Enagua Replication Project

11/19 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Centro Cultural San Pablo

Demonstration: TBD

11/19 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/19 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Demonstration: TBD

11/19 | 14:00 – 16:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Film Screening: TBD

11/19 | 15:00 – 17:00 | Centro Fotográfico Álvarez Bravo

Reception: Symposium Closing

11/19 | 17:00 – 19:00 | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca | $20

Join us for closing remarks from the 10iss organizers to celebrate the success and collaboration of the symposium at the Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca. Gather on bougainvillea-lined outdoor patios for music accompanied by dancing, drinks, and delicious aperitivos.

Sunday, November 20

In the morning, visit the grand and colorful Tlacolula market, where you will not only find regional spices and local foods, but hand-painted wooden animals, silk embroidered purses, handwoven jaspe rebozos, and fresh bowls of drinking chocolate and other aguas frescas. Then travel to Teotitlán del Valle, where you will meet Zapotec weavers creating intricately designed tapestries with wool and natural dyes. Afterwards, drive to San Agustín Etla to view the 10iss exhibitions and take a tour of CASA, an abandoned cotton textile mill converted into a beautiful contemporary work of architecture by renowned artist, Francisco Toledo. While you are there, take a tour of the Papel Taller (Paper Workshop) to see papers made from local materials such as mica, plant fiber, and natural dyes. At the Papel Taller shop, purchase paper, artist’s prints, and jewelry designed by Kiff Slemmons. At the end of the day, visit a cochineal farm to observe the lifecycle of the insect on the nopales cactus and purchase vibrant red dyestuff to take home with you.

In the morning, visit the grand and colorful Tlacolula market, where you will not only find regional spices and local foods, but hand-painted wooden animals, silk embroidered purses, handwoven jaspe rebozos, and fresh bowls of drinking chocolate and other aguas frescas. Then visit Xaquixe, a glassblowing studio with social and environmentally conscious practices. Afterwards, drive to San Agustín Etla to view the 10iss exhibitions and take a tour of CASA, an abandoned cotton textile mill converted into a beautiful contemporary work of architecture by renowned artist, Francisco Toledo. While you are there, take a tour of the Papel Taller (Paper Workshop) to see papers made from local materials such as mica, plant fiber, and natural dyes. At the Papel Taller shop, purchase paper, artist’s prints, and jewelry designed by Kiff Slemmons. At the end of the day, visit a cochineal farm to observe the lifecycle of the insect on the nopales cactus and purchase vibrant red dyestuff to take home with you.

In the morning, head a cochineal farm to observe the lifecycle of the insect on the nopales cactus and purchase vibrant red dyestuff to take home with you. Then travel to Teotitlán del Valle, where you will meet Zapotec weavers creating intricately designed tapestries with wool and natural dyes. Afterwards, drive to San Agustín Etla to view the 10iss exhibitions and take a tour of CASA, an abandoned cotton textile mill converted into a beautiful contemporary work of architecture by renowned artist, Francisco Toledo. While you are there, take a tour of the Papel Taller (Paper Workshop) to see papers made from local materials such as mica, plant fiber, and natural dyes. At the Papel Taller shop, purchase paper, artist’s prints, and jewelry designed by Kiff Slemmons. At the end of the day, visit one of the oldest trees in the world, El Árbol del Tule (The Tree of Tule), located in the church grounds in the town center of Santa María del Tule. In 2001 it was placed on a UNESCO tentative list of World Heritage Sites.

New Beat International Student Competition – Wearable Art

Featherwork

World of Shibori and Ikat

TBD | TBD | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Christina Kim

TBD | TBD | Museo Textil de Oaxaca

INDIGO Earth: Japanese Shibori, Past and Present: Arimatsu Consortium

11/15 – 11/19 | TBD | Centro Cultural San Pablo

A double exhibition of historical Japanese indigo-dyed textiles and exciting contemporary work in shibori from artisans in Arimatsu, Japan. This exhibition is part of the INDIGO Earth project, a collaboration between World Shibori Network-Japan and the 10th International Shibori Symposium.

INDIGO Earth: Japanese Shibori and Kasuri: Arimatsu Consortium

11/15 – 11/19 | TBD | Galería la Mano Mágica

Traveling Tapestry: Textile Mail Art

TBD | TBD | Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca

Expo-ventas

Mexican Artists and Artisans

11/17 – 11/20 | 10:00 – 16:00 | Centro Cultural San Pablo

This artisan show and sale offers a meeting place and an opportunity for dialogue among different cultural expressions from communities in Oaxaca and other regions of Mexico. Through sales and demonstrations of traditional textile techniques, the audience will be given a chance to learn more about the textile richness of Mexico. 10 – 12 vendors will be invited to showcase their works at this event.