Trendspotting: Military (Inspired) Jackets

by Alix Cohen

Since the 60s when we patronized Army Navy stores, military inspired outerwear returns every autumn. Perhaps it’s meant to be symbolic of equality and strength. Perhaps the look of red lipstick and loose hair in contrast to epaulets and brass buttons causes a frisson. The often slim fit is flattering, high collars are practical, traditional colors go with everything. Choose one. Some with flair:

Paula has no trouble imagining this over her black leather pants or midi skirts and boots. Somewhere in the back of the closet is a kilt her grandmother once gifted her that will look chic with it and the terrific lapels are just crying out for a really big brooch. Flea market time! This version has every detail in the book: epaulettes, buckle belt, belted sleeves, slash pockets, attached capelet; plaid lining. Wool/polyester. On the dark side of camel. $107.00

The very feminine Sylvie is looking for a full midi skirt this year to emphasize her currently vintage wardrobe. She thinks this might even serve as a suit jacket under her classic Kamali down coat if she finds the right tweed skirt. A fur scarf or big, twisted and knotted cashmere will take care of the neck. And she loves its waist. Polyester/wool/acrylic. Deep blue, double breasted. Nipped in waist with flared bottom, narrow sleeves, brass buttons; collarless. $65.00

The Old Soldier European Look

Left: Double Breasted Pleat Hem Coat- Very Upper East Side . Serena wears this to lunch with the girls at D’Orsay, then an afternoon of shopping. She collects hair bands, prefers a natural look (she’s lucky to have her mother’s skin) and does the crosswords in ink. Her ideal runs a hedge fund. Camel. Lapel, epaulets at the shoulder, two large pockets on the waist, pleat from chest to hem; tailored fit. Wool. $194.99

Right: Slim Fitted Double Breasted Peacoat- Patricia lives in Westchester. She’s in and out of the car, so doesn’t need anything very heavy yet and thinks traditional navy peacoats are, well, yesterday. There’s something singular about the silhouette of this one that appeals without pushing the envelope too far. Gentle brown. Features lapel collar, epaulets at the shoulder, pleated hem end, long a-line styling. Wool $177.99

Robin is so mad for this color, she’s building part of her wardrobe around it. A brown and navy girl rather than black, she knows this will update forest green as well. The belted style will also pair well with this year’s wide-legged pants. Scarves, now, hmmmm High neck, asymmetric zipper detail. Military style shoulder epaulets. Wool/polyamide/cashmere. Fully lined. Free delivery. $420.00

Right: Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Frieda Jacket- Catherine’s mom was a hippie. They both headed for this piece at the same time tossing a coin to see who would buy it. Catherine is all legs. She’s great at sports and runs like a colt. When her mom warns her about gravity, she grimaces. Vintage inspired military feel produced in “the tor effect Prosperity Print.” Finished with golden metal buttons. Cotton/elastane-transition wear. $340.00