During my trip to Iran, I flew from Tehran to the fabled city of Shiraz.
My happy-go-lucky ameh (paternal aunt) who lives there picked me up at the airport: coiffed, fully made-up; spiffy and snazzy in her leopard-print head scarf and dangerously high heels. After an emotional greeting and the hustle and bustle of getting the luggage we settled inside her car — me in the passenger seat she behind the wheel — when she turned to me and said: “Do you want to go to a party?” Turned out, that night was one of her ‘doreh’ parties with a few hundred (ha ha slight exaggeration) of her closest girlfriends.
[What is a ‘doreh’? When a specific group of friends have parties at regular intervals, typically monthly, each taking orderly turns to host the event at their house, it is called a doreh. It is not unusual for Iranians, specially those of a certain generation, to have at least one and oftentimes quite a few doreh social circles.]
But back to our story! So … my aunt, with one hand poised on the wheel of the car and one hand about to turn on the ignition, turned to me and said: ‘mikhai berim mehmooni?’ How could I say no to such an offer! So off we went. Barely having set foot on the soil of the magical city of Shiraz, and here I was, being whisked off to a proper Persian party straight off the airport. Ah, the fun turns and twists of life.
And here I must take a slight turn from the narration as well to tell you that driving (or being a passenger in a car for that matter) in Iran is not for the weak of heart. I say this without any exaggeration. Driving in Tehran was the worst but the smaller cities were not that much better. Slightly less terrifying, yes, but still, sufficiently terrifying! I’ve got to give kudos to my aunt who deftly maneouvered her stick shift car in the unpredictable traffic with utmost blase concern while continuing our chatter.

Anyway, back to our story again: we made it to the party and before even getting to the door I could hear Persian dance music blaring at full blast and when the hostess opened the door to greet us I could spy lots of women dancing. It was surreal and fun and I couldn’t help but just be: charmed! And laugh! “Welcome to Iran,” I thought to myself.
As I finally remembered, it is not at all uncommon in Iran for people (men, women and children) to sing and dance at parties. And amongst Iranians, the people from Shiraz (shiraziha) are particularly renowned for their hedonistic and fun loving ways, and it turns out that no respectable Shirazi party is complete without bezan va bekoob (which figuratively refers to music and dancing.)
Now I will definitely write a post later on about Shiraz, and maybe I’ll even write one about ‘gher dadan” and show you how to dance like a Persian. Oh, why not! Persian style of dancing is charming! It is expressive, coquettish, playfully seductive and just … fun to do and fun to watch.
But for now, for this jaunty pre-weekend post, I’ll just touch base on this thing called ‘beshkan zadan’ which is what it’s called when Iranians put the palms of their hands together and snap their fingers to make a loud rhythmic click. (The sound of it is as evocative of Iran for me as is the sound of the water flowing in the rivers and water-ditches of Tehran.)
‘Beshkan zadan’ is in the DNA of Iranians! It’s what we do when people are dancing to encourage and egg them on; it’s what we do when fun rhythmic music is played and we’re just feeling it, you know; and sometimes, when we feel particularly exuberant and jolly, we can’t help but snap our fingers to celebrate the good feeling or the good news.
Here’s a photo I found on Flickr of an Iranian guy (I’m assuming!) giving beshkan lessons to his farangi friends. (Got permission to post the photo courtesy of Mariam jaan!)

And see here, even George Clooney is doing it! WHAT! (Totally random. I know!)

[This photo is a still from a video of George Clooney snapping his fingers Persian style (beshkan zadan) and he did so in the context of talking about Iranian film making & filmmakers during a film festival interview. Here’s the video. Warning: it loads SLOWLY.t]
Now just as it take practice to learn how to whistle with your fingers (RIP Lauren Bacall) there’s a technique to ‘beshkan zadan’ and snapping your fingers Persian style. Initially, you may find you’re doing what you’re supposed to be doing but no sound comes out. Patience, grasshopper, and practice! Practice makes perfect and if you keep at it, soon you’ll be able to ‘beshkan bezani” with George Clooney and the best of ’em.
There’s just so much one can demonstrate with words, however, and there comes a time when you have to do a show and tell. So with that said, let’s get to these series of YouTube ‘beshkan zadan’ video tutorials.
First, we have a short one made by yours truly, yes moi, your faithful dorky blogger, wherein I demonstrate the act and sound of ‘beshkan’ for your viewing pleasure.

Please forgive the stylized video. I did it so as to spare your eyes from the horror of my unkempt and exhausted mien. NOT a pretty sight!
Now let’s check out a few YouTube beshkan tutorials so that you can start practicing your Persian snap action.
Here we have a short and solemnly quiet beshkan tutorial, which seems at odd with the exuberant nature of the act, nevertheless, the video does a good job of showing the technique, so on the road of building up your behskan zadan skills, you may want to start here:

And look, all you left handed people (which, by the way, I was born one of you, but alas my maman bozorgh turned me to a right-handed one, boo hoo hoo) … anyhow, here’s a beshkan video tutorial for you awesome left handed ones by an equally awesome left-handed young woman – that video is fun and informative to watch for all of you cool right-handed folks as well:

Love this! I miss writing to you. I bought a Ranch, and I’m writing the Cowgirl version of “Under the Tuscan Sun.” There is a lot of work to do on the Ranch and it both excites me and frightens me at the same time.
Miss you.
Rose
Sent from my iPad
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Rose! I love it whenever you pop up. I read about the ranch on FB and am entirely thrilled and excited for you. Absolutely love the concept of the Cowgirl version of Under the Tuscan Sun. Things that frighten and excite us at the same time are precisely the things we have to do and I’m very happy for you. Be bold! Be happy! Miss you lots too and I’m sure we’ll write soon to each other once we are less crazed with our to-dos. Love -azita

What fun, I have never been able to beshkan or snap but I love it when it’s done. I have been to Persian parties with the dancing and snapping and it was so much fun. Unfortunately George C never loaded maybe too many people were doing at the same time I’ll try later. What a great time you had in Shiraz, love your Aunt she looks very stylish and a bit on the avante garde side.

Azita joon, loved your post as usual. I always wished to do that finger snap, I tried so many times and my (Ex) family would get such a kick out of me trying so hard. Well I guess this is really in your DNA as a Persian. Hoped that I would have that DNA. And yes as Amanda says, your culture really knows how to party and celebrate, love it!!!

I love it but I think I need some practice! 😉 Such a lovely way to use your hands! As you may know, Italians are famous for using their hands when they talk. Its their way to give more emphasis to what they are saying. It is not always appreciated (especially in the highly educated circles) but they sure deliver a strong message! 😉

I will be happy to give you a private one-on-one beshkan tutorial next we meet, Francesca joon! I do know that about Italians, and personally, I’m a fan of it, (if used sparingly) even though the sophisticated may frown upon it.

This post is too silly and fun! Growing up with lots of Persian friends I am surprised I never noticed this unique way of snapping your fingers…I missed out! But I love the dancing parties and ladies gatherings its one of my favorite parts of the culture overseas 🙂

hi there did try this too : however, practice and patience is needed as became amply clear in the first 2 minutes of me trying. I suspect I will never learn this one 🙂 by the way I am left-handed too 🙂

[…] But not in Iran! On the eve of the longest night of the year (winter solstice or shab ‘e Yalda in Farsi), Iranian families gather together and stay up long after dinner — munching on ajeel & seeded pomegranates sprinkled with golpar (ground angelica) and whiling the time away by catching up with each other, telling stories, and consulting the poetry of the Persian lyric poet Hafez for glimpses into the future – a type of bibliomancy that is called fal-e-Hafez. Knowing Iranians, if it’s possible to have music; there will also be music, and if there’s even the slightest chance to get up and shake one’s groove thing, there will also be dancing. (Providing ample opportunities for beshkan zadan.) […]

[…] my fabulous Khaleh Farzie; went to Yazd with Haleh, my dear childhood/family friend; visited my vivacious aunt in Shiraz; went to the holy city of Ghom with my uncle; took a short and sweet road trip jaunt to the Caspian […]