If you only do work in the forward direction, it reduces to a question of optimization...
If backing something heavy up a winding hill in 4Lo is in the picture, I would think twice about the "weaker" gear set.
I've been in 4Lo reverse with the wheels taking turns breaking loose - stock gears - hoping I don't hear a snap and have things come to a grinding halt.

If it wasn't for the strength concern, I may have regeared even with the 33's. (for the way I use the PW)

On the other hand, the Power Wagons aren't high torque diesels so maybe it doesn't matter.

I am on stock size tires as I think you are, and even with those I would like 4.56's, if not 4.88's. The trans gears are just so high.

When the jump to 37's comes I think I will go to 5.13's.

Funny—all this talk of gearing and tires, at one point 4.88’s & 37’s were like the holy grail step-up for the Best-Gen trucks, put us on par or above with the ‘13 and older crowd who mostly gravitate to 35’s and keep their 4.56’s. Now the move is to 39/40” tires and 5.13’s—and I’ve been secretly discussing with my inner engineer the virtue of abandoning the 37” experience and moving down to lowly 35’s ( HUSH YOUR MOUTH) when these Nittos are done

The unsprung weight difference, added driveline stress, and steep increase in rolling moment of inertia haunts my nerd alter-ego, but the cool kid in me wants 5.13’s and 40’s (STILL YOUR MIND, DONT LISTEN TO THOSE MOAB HERETICS AND GYPSIES, THEY’ll PILFER YOUR TREASURE AND PLUNDER YOUR TRUCK) so i war with my innersef, but i think 35’s and 4.88’s look pretty great for all around use....maybe a bit higher RPM at 75mph than I’d like, but I’ll take that over the fear of constant brake fade, and NO, I’M NOT INSTALLING HYDRO ASSIST STEERING, OR A BIGGER MASTER CYLINDER AND HIGH CAPACITY STEEL BRAIDED LINES—GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN

Last edited by adeluca73 on Sat Aug 18, 2018 2:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

If you only do work in the forward direction, it reduces to a question of optimization...
If backing something heavy up a winding hill in 4Lo is in the picture, I would think twice about the "weaker" gear set.
I've been in 4Lo reverse with the wheels taking turns breaking loose - stock gears - hoping I don't hear a snap and have things come to a grinding halt.

If it wasn't for the strength concern, I may have regeared even with the 33's. (for the way I use the PW)

On the other hand, the Power Wagons aren't high torque diesels so maybe it doesn't matter.

I am on stock size tires as I think you are, and even with those I would like 4.56's, if not 4.88's. The trans gears are just so high.

When the jump to 37's comes I think I will go to 5.13's.

Funny—all this talk of gearing and tires, at one point 4.88’s & 37’s were like the holy grail step-up for the Best-Gen trucks, put us on par or above with the ‘13 and older crowd who mostly gravitate to 35’s and keep their 4.56’s. Now the move is to 39/40” tires and 5.13’s—and I’ve been secretly discussing with my inner engineer the virtue of abandoning the 37” experience and moving down to lowly 35’s ( HUSH YOUR MOUTH) when these Nittos are done

The unsprung weight difference, added driveline stress, and steep increase in rolling moment of inertia haunts my nerd alter-ego, but the cool kid in me wants 5.13’s and 40’s (STILL YOU MIND, DONT LISTEN TO THOSE MOAB HERETICS AND GYPSIES, THEY’ll PILFER YOUR TREASURE AND PLUNDER YOUR TRUCK) so i war with my innersef, but i think 35’s and 4.88’s look pretty great for all around use....maybe a bit higher RPM at 75mph than I’d like, but I’ll take that over the fear of constant brake fade, and NO, I’M NOT INSTALLING HYDRO ASSIST STEERING, OR A BIGGER MASTER CYLINDER AND HIGH CAPACITY STEEL BRAUDED LINES—GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN

If you only do work in the forward direction, it reduces to a question of optimization...
If backing something heavy up a winding hill in 4Lo is in the picture, I would think twice about the "weaker" gear set.
I've been in 4Lo reverse with the wheels taking turns breaking loose - stock gears - hoping I don't hear a snap and have things come to a grinding halt.

If it wasn't for the strength concern, I may have regeared even with the 33's. (for the way I use the PW)

On the other hand, the Power Wagons aren't high torque diesels so maybe it doesn't matter.

I am on stock size tires as I think you are, and even with those I would like 4.56's, if not 4.88's. The trans gears are just so high.

When the jump to 37's comes I think I will go to 5.13's.

Funny—all this talk of gearing and tires, at one point 4.88’s & 37’s were like the holy grail step-up for the Best-Gen trucks, put us on par or above with the ‘13 and older crowd who mostly gravitate to 35’s and keep their 4.56’s. Now the move is to 39/40” tires and 5.13’s—and I’ve been secretly discussing with my inner engineer the virtue of abandoning the 37” experience and moving down to lowly 35’s ( HUSH YOUR MOUTH) when these Nittos are done

The unsprung weight difference, added driveline stress, and steep increase in rolling moment of inertia haunts my nerd alter-ego, but the cool kid in me wants 5.13’s and 40’s (STILL YOU MIND, DONT LISTEN TO THOSE MOAB HERETICS AND GYPSIES, THEY’ll PILFER YOUR TREASURE AND PLUNDER YOUR TRUCK) so i war with my innersef, but i think 35’s and 4.88’s look pretty great for all around use....maybe a bit higher RPM at 75mph than I’d like, but I’ll take that over the fear of constant brake fade, and NO, I’M NOT INSTALLING HYDRO ASSIST STEERING, OR A BIGGER MASTER CYLINDER AND HIGH CAPACITY STEEL BRAUDED LINES—GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN

I am on stock size tires as I think you are, and even with those I would like 4.56's, if not 4.88's. The trans gears are just so high.

When the jump to 37's comes I think I will go to 5.13's.

Funny—all this talk of gearing and tires, at one point 4.88’s & 37’s were like the holy grail step-up for the Best-Gen trucks, put us on par or above with the ‘13 and older crowd who mostly gravitate to 35’s and keep their 4.56’s. Now the move is to 39/40” tires and 5.13’s—and I’ve been secretly discussing with my inner engineer the virtue of abandoning the 37” experience and moving down to lowly 35’s ( HUSH YOUR MOUTH) when these Nittos are done

The unsprung weight difference, added driveline stress, and steep increase in rolling moment of inertia haunts my nerd alter-ego, but the cool kid in me wants 5.13’s and 40’s (STILL YOU MIND, DONT LISTEN TO THOSE MOAB HERETICS AND GYPSIES, THEY’ll PILFER YOUR TREASURE AND PLUNDER YOUR TRUCK) so i war with my innersef, but i think 35’s and 4.88’s look pretty great for all around use....maybe a bit higher RPM at 75mph than I’d like, but I’ll take that over the fear of constant brake fade, and NO, I’M NOT INSTALLING HYDRO ASSIST STEERING, OR A BIGGER MASTER CYLINDER AND HIGH CAPACITY STEEL BRAUDED LINES—GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN

Funny—all this talk of gearing and tires, at one point 4.88’s & 37’s were like the holy grail step-up for the Best-Gen trucks, put us on par or above with the ‘13 and older crowd who mostly gravitate to 35’s and keep their 4.56’s. Now the move is to 39/40” tires and 5.13’s—and I’ve been secretly discussing with my inner engineer the virtue of abandoning the 37” experience and moving down to lowly 35’s ( HUSH YOUR MOUTH) when these Nittos are done

The unsprung weight difference, added driveline stress, and steep increase in rolling moment of inertia haunts my nerd alter-ego, but the cool kid in me wants 5.13’s and 40’s (STILL YOU MIND, DONT LISTEN TO THOSE MOAB HERETICS AND GYPSIES, THEY’ll PILFER YOUR TREASURE AND PLUNDER YOUR TRUCK) so i war with my innersef, but i think 35’s and 4.88’s look pretty great for all around use....maybe a bit higher RPM at 75mph than I’d like, but I’ll take that over the fear of constant brake fade, and NO, I’M NOT INSTALLING HYDRO ASSIST STEERING, OR A BIGGER MASTER CYLINDER AND HIGH CAPACITY STEEL BRAUDED LINES—GET THEE BEHIND ME SATAN