Wondering where you chose to put the relay with special connectors. It's a bit limiting with shortish special connector wires.

__________________
There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

I'm generally pleased but haven't done night ride and need to stand the test of time. Both kits could use a couple of improvements.

Most troublesome for me was the connector box on the Kristas as short leads were very limiting in its placement. The 'volume' control for dimming is conveniently located on the left mirror mount but both lights and volume have to connect to the relay box and there's no lengthening the set up. I tried several places but ultimately ended up in the maelstrom that exists under the beak. It should be in the upper fairing on the left side.

There are a bunch of wires on the Kristas - which adds nice capability but lots of routing. As the connector box is under the beak, I ran the power source to the right side of the bike and everything else on the left (flash, horn, volume, switched x 2)

The Dually kit was good save the switch. The switch has a very thin concealment ring and rather than use a nut on back to fasten relies on a pinch mechanism - I solved the jiggle with a couple of extra zip ties. Both switches seem a bit aggressive with their LED 'On' indicators. Each is blazing red and seem brighter than some stock head lamps. Might be a bit distracting at night. I'd prefer happy green and half the lumens.

I took the time to wrap all wires with extra sleeve for abrasion, heat and to avoid the high school science fair look.

As part of this install, I added an Eastern Beaver PC8 with 30 amp shorty kit and canbus resistror I was hoping to tidy up the rats nest I had on the battery but may have made it worse. The box gives me 6 switched and 2 un-switched circuits. It seems well made but placement on the f8gs was sub optimal - not much space to work with. I'm running a Shorai battery and without its small footprint not sure I could have fit it. And now, if I need a replacement battery and Shorai is not available I'm going to need to make several adjustments.

1st is power to relay charging the switched circuits on the PC8. I used the f8gs special connector (white plug to yellow wire / posi connect at center of pic,) found the hot and clipped the other wires. Ran positive into PC8 which means the switched circuits cut out a minute or few (I've never timed it) after the bike is shut off. The PC8 has un-switched circuits which I use for GPS - more better.

Also -

Clearwater Kristas dim but can be connected to horn / brights to instant up to 100%. I skipped the horn because I didn't like wire set up with steering range - could be worked around if you planned for it but the way my wires were fixed it wasn't worth it to me.

I did want brights to fire Kristas to 100%. This is a nice feature as you can run them as night markers @20% then when alone hit the brights and cook the critters stalking you. Kill the brights and drop from 100% back to dimmer setting. Perfect.

I ran the wire (white) up through the vent for the bright and used a posi tap to connect hots. It's tight in there but works.

__________________
There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV

Sutherngintelmen screwed with this post 11-04-2012 at 12:39 PM
Reason: Added notes on power for PC8 & bright switch, reposted pics after Apple bailed on Mobile Me. Now on smugmug!

Has anyone installed HIDs in their driving lights (such as PIAA 510's)? I'm thinking about putting in some 3000k yellow HIDs in my PIAA 510's. HIDs use 70watts total compared to the 110w I'm currently using with the stock bulbs.

$18.89 @ Walmart. Dual 55 watt halogens mounted on the SW motech bars. Fused and hardwired to the battery with a rocker switch mounted on the handlebars. 10 minute install. Running them is like having a high beam down low. Lights grounded to the crash bars. Switch grounded to the dash mount. Only wire that needed running was the positive one. And I didn't need to cut into the stock wiring system at all.

Sealed impact resistant weather proof housing but it doesn't matter if they break. Cost was less than a meal out. Swamped em in mud and threw rocks at em this weekend on the Uwharrie ORV area. They work like a champ. Actually needed them to stay visible for oncoming ATVs/Buggies on some of the faster dustier roads.

I also changed out my stock Canbuss accessory outlet with a fused replacement from Gerbing at the same time. Found out the hard way on the side of the road that the stock Canbuss adapter aint worth sh#t. Pardon my french. But it won't run any of the portable air pumps that BMW sells as accessories for their bikes. It's under-engineered to trip out @ like 8 amps draw and left me stranded with a flat tire. POS. Replaced it as soon as I got home from that ride. Why in the world would BMW put that crappy adapter on their bike when doing it right adds almost no weight and costs near nothing???

Looks almost identical to the stocker but it'll run anything I want to put on it...

Anyone try these Techmounts on their crash bars?
You could even put them on your handle bars, if you are so inclined....

I have a pair of Duallys (amber) hanging off crash bars via technmount. These are fairly large aux lights compared to VisionX and they've stayed put on road / gravel. I've not put them through whoops.

I went a different route for mounting VisionX to to handle bars. Sandwich a bit of trimmed rounded edged angle aluminum.

__________________
There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.