After a renovation that took a year and a half, a former gas station/general store, once known as Dubois Mercantile and said to be one of the oldest structures in Flowood, has a fresh purpose as a restaurant.

In operation for about two months, The Filling Station dishes up plate lunches, burgers and barbecue four days a week during lunch. On Friday and Saturday nights, the restaurant trends more upscale with a menu of steak, shrimp, catfish, crab cakes and a chef’s special.

A friend and I refueled there on a rainy Friday night and enjoyed everything about it. The décor is down-to-earth casual, the atmosphere laid back and the food comforting and familiar.

We ordered as an appetizer Smoked Nachos ($8) and chose the pulled pork option instead of chicken.

The tortilla chips topped with a medley of shredded cheese, pulled pork, green onions, jalapenos and the house barbecue sauce oozed goodness in every bite.

The pork impressed me so much that I plan to return for a pulled pork sandwich, which is available only at lunch. I also want to try the blue plates offered only at lunch: hand-battered ribeye steak (Tuesday), fried chicken (Wednesday), red beans and rice (Thursday) and fried catfish (Friday). Prices range from $8.50-$9.50, which includes a choice of two sides.

Another friend arrived to join us for dinner, and we shared our nachos who her and the two nine-year-old boys who accompanied her. They put a dent in the remaining pile of nachos and saved me from myself.

For dinner, I opted for the breadless crab cakes ($24) made in house from lump crabmeat and come with choice of two sides. I selected a baked potato, served with grated cheddar cheese, butter and sour cream, and the vegetable medley composed of diced zucchini and yellow squash. Crab cakes are a favorite and my order came with three; I ate two at dinner and took home one for lunch the next day.

My friends wanted something light and chose large salads — one got a garden salad ($6) and the other, a Caesar Salad ($6) — plus a baked potato ($3). The boys chowed down on the kids chicken tenders ($7), accompanied by crinkle-cut French fries.

We were happy, and so were the boys. Everyone in the place seemed to leave with a smile and good things to say about the food, service and the experience.

The restaurant is a family affair. Betty Fuss of Rankin County opened the restaurant along with her son, Chris Fuss, and his wife Jana, and their sons, Jonathan and Matthew.

The restaurant relies on Chris Fuss’ experience in the foodservice industry. He worked at U.S. Foods for more than 20 years in various sales management positions and has been general manager at Sunrise Fresh Produce for the last eight years.

“I’ve been able to see a lot of what works and doesn’t work in a restaurant,” he said, noting that almost all of the food at The Filling Station arrives fresh, not frozen or in cans.

Betty Fuss takes care of operations during lunch while Chris Fuss works his day job and Jana Fuss works as a public relations professional. “We both have day jobs to support our restaurant habit,” Chris Fuss said.

Dowden Morrow, who most recently worked at Underground 119 in Jackson, is the chef, and Matt Briggs is the sous chef. Mallory Hull manages the front of the house.

Business has been good, he said.

“Feb. 15 was our first day and we’ve grown every day by word of mouth and a little bit of Facebook,” he said. “We have two groups who have never missed eating here on a Tuesday.”

The Filling Station is open from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and from 5-9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The Flowood Chamber of Commerce has scheduled a ribbon-cutting ceremony at the restaurant on March 8 at 10:45 a.m.

Contact Nell Luter Floyd at nellfloyd@bellsouth.net.

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Pat Vanderberry, of Flowood, enjoys having dinner at The Filling Station in Flowood.(Photo: Kathy Matheny/For Clarion Ledger)