After upgrading to 11.10, Nautilus is only giving me a text-only location box to select files. How can I get the toolbar (with the "up to parent", "home", etc buttons) back? Or failing that, is there a way to switch to breadcrumb mode?

I have already tried changing my gconf preferences for nautilus -- always_use_location_entry and start_with_location_bar are disabled, and start_with_toolbar is enabled.

I had to install dconf-tools and change setting 'always-use-location-entry' in org.gnome.nautilus.preferences to False via dconf-editor.
Changing the same entry in apps.nautilus.preferences with gconf-editor didn't help.