Media demands dont mean that Kylie Kwong has taken her eye
off the wok. Her chic and tiny Shanghai teahouse has an open
kitchen, three-legged stools, plenty of noise and barely enough
room to swing a chopstick. A no-bookings policy means youll
almost certainly have to wait if you get here much after opening
time. People do because Kwongs wondrous Chinese shines with
the best organic and biodynamic ingredients, and a stand-out talent
for combining strong and subtle flavours. The banquet is the ideal
way to experience this harmony. You might begin with sashimi-style
hiramasa kingfish fillets spiked with slivers of cucumber, carrot,
chilli and soy its silky steamed Tasmanian scallop wontons
with Sichuan pepper and lakes of fiery chilli-oil dressing. Duck is
a speciality; served with the signature blood- orange sauce - or
plum for a change - it balances sweet with sour, rich meat with the
crispness of the skin. Its pricey considering the canteen
feel, but so very good.