Overview

Pik Todo is the last nonglaciated summit in the range between the valleys of rivers Dzanajdartaka and Atdzhajlo. The range starts near the border post Bardoba (3520 m) with the unnamed peak 3650 m high covered by grass, continues with rocky range around the peak 4105 m and via Pik Todo finishing nonglaciated range. The first glaciated peak is Pik Nezametnyj (4657 m).

The area of Dzanajdartaka river and surrounding peaks are completely out of focus of climbers and trekkers. In comparison with hundreds of climbers and trekkers in the Pik Lenin area you do not find a human here. The reason is simple, just several tens of kilometres to the west is located Pik Lenin. Thus, as Pik Lenina is over 7000 m, none is interested in peaks between 6000 and 6684 meters lying nearby. There are many peaks, most of them believed unclimbed, that are suitable for routes of different grade.

The basis of Pik Todo is obviously steady rock, but all his slopes are covered with unstable stones and rocks. They are gliding down during the ascent and descent as the stepnees of the slopes are quite high.

The reason for climbing this small peak (small in comparison with other higher peaks in the area) can be found in couriosity which's the situation in the Atdzhajlo river valley and Kyzyl-Art river valley leading under the border pass Kyzyl-Art (4336 m) between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

The wide valley of Dzanajdartaka river is fullfilled with stones transported to the lower parts by the river during the spring months. However, similar to Pik Lenina Lukova poljana (Onion field) a lot of onion and incredible amount of types of mountain flowers can be found here.

Getting There

Kyrgyzstan can be simple reached from many European airports with companies like Russians Aeroflot (via Moscow) and Air Pulkovo (via St. Peterburg), KLM, British Airways (from London), Kyrgyz airlines (from Munchen directly to Bishkek), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul), and other.

When leaving the Manas airport back to your home country do not be surprised, that for several companies the „leaving cost“ USD 10 is included in the price of air ticket, but for many others you have to pay this fee before registration to flight. Be also very careful with the weight of your luggage, as clerks weigh ALL YOUR luggage at once! And you have to pay at least USD 8 per kilogram exceeding over 20 kilograms.

From Bishkek you can use domestic airlines – Kyrgyz airlines or Altyn Air to fly from Bishkek to Osh. It takes about 50 minutes by Jak-40 jet plane. Prices for 2005 season are:
Kyrgyz airlines return ticket USD 80, one way ticket USD 60
Altyn airlines return ticket approximately USD 100
Tickets are available in advance by your order realized through the local travel agency or just after your arrive at Manas airport. Only for cheaper Kyrgyz airlines tickets can be sold out for the first flights.

Another possibility is bus or taxi for about 800 kilometres long route to the second biggest city Osh. Asking for a taxi is the simplest at Osh bazaar in Bishkek.

From Osh use any of travel agency transport support or ask for a „taxi“ UAZ, gazik (Russian version of a jeep). In fact, you can also use any of robust cars like the famous Soviet car Volha, because the above mentioned are able to win over the dirty road from Osh via the city Gulcha over the passes Cidcik (2400 m) and Taldyk (3615 m).

However, you can also use a local bus Osh – Sary-Tash and then take a car for Bardobo border control. Or you can simple hitchike after leaving Osh.

Red Tape

Except of 28 countries citizens of all other countries need a valid Kyrgzyz visa to enter the country. They are easily obtained at your local Kyrgyz Embassy for about USD 45 per person. Sometimes you need a letter of invitation by Kyrgyz travel agency to get visas. The letter can be easily obtained by several travel agencies in Bishkek ans Osh, some of them are mentioned LOWER. Moreover, citizens of over twenty countries are also free from OVIR (police department of foreign affairs) registration in Osh and border zone permit (both cost for about USD 20 per person). The border control is at Bardobo.

There are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. The situation can be changed for next year, but now you do not have to pay any money for climbs or treks!

When To Climb & Weather Conditions

The mountain is climbable during all the year . However, the best weather conditions are from mid July to mid August. Possibility of heavy avalanches is increasing during the winter and spring as the steepness of the slopes is high. However, the winter months are very cold – the same like around Pik Lenina. really interesting can be spring months, as there remains snow cover and access from the M41 route from Bardobo border control can be very easy. Other advantage is clean water emitted by dissapearring snow fields.

Helmet is quite recommendable. All avalanche safety items are welcome during winter and spring.

In the main climbing season – mid of summer – you just need trekking poles.

The weather can be pretty unstable all over the year. According to our experience in summer 2005, there was majority of days with sunshine in the early morning. Around 10 a.m. clouds and fog appeared, and in the afternoon rain and storms continued. Finally, in the evening clear heaven covered with stars appeared. Snow storms caused about 40 cm thick snow cover in the valley and many avalanches of different size on slopes.

Mountain Conditions

First ascent: unknown. If you know something about possible first ascends feel free to add it!

UPDATE ABOUT FIRST CLIMBS!!! SP member Rybakov have declared, that he has climbed this peak 15 years ago. NO DETAILS about previous climbs. This peak is NOT UNCLIMBED any more! However, feel free to be the first to ski it down. :-)

Pik Todo can be climbed from both sides of the range, i.e. valleys of Dzanajdartaka and Atdzhajlo rivers. All climbs are nontechnical and are of simple motivation: „Look at the peak, choose nice line, and climb it up“. The big trouble in non snow time is unstable surface composed by free stones and rocks that likes gliding down.

Camping

You can camp anywhere in the area. The only trouble is the lack of clean water for cooking and drinking. All streams starting on north sides of the range are polluted by sediments and they are brown. Higher in the valley you can find remains after old camps. One of the highest concentrations of old rusty cans we found at the beginning of Nazarova glacier moraines. The camp was set up in the summer 1989 by a team of Soviet geologists measuring data for geological map of this area in the scale 1:50 000.

Please, do not leave any „marks“ after your staying here, let your camping site as clean as possible and take all your rubbish with you in lowland.