A friend here on the island just bought a 1993 R100GS with the alcohol proof float kit. I understand there are early and late versions of these. The early ones had a tendency to stick and were modified into the newer version. My question is this; is there a way to distinguish between the two? Someone here mentioned a fix for their lack of an overflow vent as well. Any clues as to how that was accomplished? Thanks!

I thought Bing was now making 'alcohol' proof floats designed the same as the originals? That would solve the problem that doesn't exist from what I have seen and save you from buying a new float bowl that doesn't have an overflow when you really don't need one to start with?

There was another float made of material more resistant to the alcohol in fuel. Bing did make it 10 or 20 years ago. They don't make it anymore. At least that is what I was told a year ago when I asked about this.

Bing recommends the APK with two floats per float bowl. They also say they have never had any problems with this design. Many riders agree with them, others disagree.

There was another float made of material more resistant to the alcohol in fuel. Bing did make it 10 or 20 years ago. They don't make it anymore. At least that is what I was told a year ago when I asked about this.

Bing recommends the APK with two floats per float bowl. They also say they have never had any problems with this design. Many riders agree with them, others disagree.

Bing USA says a lot of things that just are not so. They know they changed the design of those floats for a reason. The same basic design in some Mikuni's give a lot of trouble too. Not having trouble is one thing. I have seen that too but not seeing any trouble with them as a whole? That involves not looking.

Having used the older style floats since circa 1991, my experience has been that the corners don't stick. What will cause the floats to stick is friction from varnish and buildup on the central pin these floats slide on. I found using some Brasso (the older style that had to be in a metal can) and pipe cleaners smoothed the floats internal brass tube. Some Brasso on a cotton swab cleaned up the brass pin.

The original Bing float bowl has a redundant vent with the carb body vent. The independent float bowl has no separate vent. I have never had a problem with the float vent clogging on the carburetor body. YMMV.

The original Bing float bowl has a redundant vent with the carb body vent. The independent float bowl has no separate vent.

I think you're confusing the purpose of the float bowl tube - it's not a vent, though it will act as one, but an over-flow pipe. Should the float hang up allowing the needle to stick open, fuel will continue to flow into the carb. When that happens, it can flow into the engine, diluting the oil, and possibly cause hydraulic lock during start up that can bend a rod. The over-flow pipe will direct the fuel out of the carb onto the ground rather than into the engine.

I've looked at these independent float bowls and it seems fairly simple to drill for a vent, heat the bowl to expand the aluminum and press in a brass tube.

Just because you personally haven't had a problem with this design doesn't mean it isn't possible. Perhaps your bike has a very clean tank and no crap in the fuel. Things change. Others have had problems with fuel not shutting off, and the independent floats don't exert more pressure on the float valve than the original style. To think that the independents are superior in that regard rendering that scenario impossible is wishful thinking.

Obviously, some believe the Bing independent float design is flawed. I have not found that to be the case. Fuel flows notably from the carburetor vent if the floats are stuck with the independent kit. That is from personal experience not from speculation or hearsay.

The carb float bowl tube can function as a vent or overflow. The vent on the carburetor body can function similarly. I see that as redundancy. Not that redundancy is bad, the Navy likes redundancy.

I don't see a problem with the independent float design - other than no redundancy. However if someone doesn't shut off their fuel petcocks, the lack of a float bowl vent could cause serious problems. But, those same problems could occur even with both vents/overflow working.

Bing has been selling these kits for their carburetors since the mid 1980's. I happen to be one of their satisfied customers. Although, when the floats sink or the bowls crack it is unlikely the independent floats will be replaced. IMO, the benefits are more likely suited to light aircraft than airheads. Again, YMMV.

I'm researching the idea of buying the alcohol proof float and bowl kit from Bing for my '64 R27 that has a type 53 carb (ala R50, /5, /6). Am hoping one of the more knowledgeable folks from this thread might help me out.

Is there some reason why the new floats can't be used with the original bowl? I'd really like to have that overflow tube for safety's sake.

The floats in my #53 carb are very old, yellowed, and kind of corroded looking. I don't know how I can test their "floatability," so I'm not sure if they really need to be replaced at all.

As I'm obviously no mechanic, I'm thinking about sending the carb to Bing for complete rebuild including new floats (& bowl?), because neither I nor anyone I've ever had service the bike has been able to adjust the carb, find any jet blockages, etc. to figure out why it has constant - and ever changing - fueling issues.

I'm researching the idea of buying the alcohol proof float and bowl kit from Bing for my '64 R27 that has a type 53 carb (ala R50, /5, /6). Am hoping one of the more knowledgeable folks from this thread might help me out.

Is there some reason why the new floats can't be used with the original bowl? I'd really like to have that overflow tube for safety's sake.

The floats in my #53 carb are very old, yellowed, and kind of corroded looking. I don't know how I can test their "floatability," so I'm not sure if they really need to be replaced at all.

As I'm obviously no mechanic, I'm thinking about sending the carb to Bing for complete rebuild including new floats (& bowl?), because neither I nor anyone I've ever had service the bike has been able to adjust the carb, find any jet blockages, etc. to figure out why it has constant - and ever changing - fueling issues.

Thanks much for any ideas or help here!

Renner is one the local experts on the R27 here, but you will probably need to describe what the "fueling issues" are before anyone can offer input of substance. Generally, if carb "issues" cannot be readily resolved, it is often not a carb issue. Check your valve adjustments, do a leak down test to check for a leaking valve, check your ignition system, and make sure all else is ruled out before sending your carb off for a very expensive overhaul it may not need.

Floats that look "bad" are not necessarily a problem. If you remove them and hear fuel sloshing inside when they are shaken, they are bad. If they are dry and sound, and fuel is not overflowing into the venturi, then they are probably just fine.