So tasty, in fact, that we at ELV think there should be a line out the door for his spicy curry beef and an albacore tataki — specialties that would be twice as expensive two miles east and not a penny better for it.

Not to mention a killer hamburger steak with gravy (that the Burger Maven heartily approved of) and something called chicken “Doria,” consisting of delicately fried chicken strips over rice and onions.

This is Japanese kissaten food, to be sure, but there is nothing unrecognizable to any American palate, unless it is the waving bonito flakes on some items, and the care and skill used to prepare the dishes.

The only thing that’s wrong with the place is the sign. It sort of blends in to the building during the day, and isn’t visible from the side of the road, nor can you see it if you’re driving west on Spring Mountain Road.

Of course, none of these handicaps hurt Raku, so maybe we shouldn’t despair.