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I am not hip to what works well on ol' skool Stangs I recommend you hit up the Classics section where all them pepes hang out. They will be able to give you MUCH more info that will be of help. I am well versed in SN95's and a little of the Fox Body and S197's.

Good luck and post up some pics and info in the customer rides thread in this section when done. This comes up occasionally and good for pepes to get pics and specs info.

Jazzer

Not a matter of what works on the classic as much much as the right rim for the tire. The charts I've seen said 6-8 on the rim width. 7 or 8s will fit the car but what the best width for the tire?

I've been in the classics section a long time. Couldn't get an answer to the rim width vs tire size besides there isn't anything "classic" left in my suspension

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A 225 is generally on a 7" wheel, but would likely run on an 8". For an 8" wheel, the max is going to be a 245 or maybe a 255 depending on the profile height and manufacturers fitment approval. Until one gets to a 50 or so series of tire, a 7" wheel is pretty much maxed out by a 225 tire.

A 225 is generally on a 7" wheel, but would likely run on an 8". For an 8" wheel, the max is going to be a 245 or maybe a 255 depending on the profile height and manufacturers fitment approval. Until one gets to a 50 or so series of tire, a 7" wheel is pretty much maxed out by a 225 tire.

Does this help..? lol

Jazzer

So if the 7 is maxed out by the 225 should I run an 8 especially if its going to be a 45 or 50?

I'm down to 2 different options right now, 225/50R16 or 225/45R17

Thanks again for the help. I don't like just following people who say "I used XXX" When I ask why they just say "because everyone else does." It's great having someone that can actually provide information. Thanks again!!!

Look up the tires you MOST want to run and see the approved fitment by the manufacturer. The higher profile tire, such as the 225/50/16", is going to have a bit more bulge on the sidewall, but have the same footprint, or contact patch, on the ground. The look of the tire as it sits on the wheel will be a bit different, but not a whole lot. I guess the question that needs to be asked here, will help decide for you....

What are your needs as a driver?

The higher profile will give you a bit softer ride, but somewhat less turn-in response in the corners. The little extra bulge can offer a bit more rim protection from curbs and such, so may be a consideration. You will find more performance oriented tires in the 17" size. So if you are looking for grip, especially lateral, I would recommend you go with the 17" wheels.

Look up the tires you MOST want to run and see the approved fitment by the manufacturer. The higher profile tire, such as the 225/50/16", is going to have a bit more bulge on the sidewall, but have the same footprint, or contact patch, on the ground. The look of the tire as it sits on the wheel will be a bit different, but not a whole lot. I guess the question that needs to be asked here, will help decide for you....

What are your needs as a driver?

The higher profile will give you a bit softer ride, but somewhat less turn-in response in the corners. The little extra bulge can offer a bit more rim protection from curbs and such, so may be a consideration. You will find more performance oriented tires in the 17" size. So if you are looking for grip, especially lateral, I would recommend you go with the 17" wheels.

Jazzer

Thanks this helps a lot. One more ?? then I think I got it all. If the rim is only available in a 7 or 8 and the fitmit spec says 7.5, am I better going up to the 8 or down to the 7?

Go up to an 8" wheel, if the tire MINIMUM approved fitment per manufacturer says at least a 7.5" wheel. You may be looking at the spec page and the numbers given are relatve to the wheel in which it is mounted, not the wheels in which it fits. That is to say, look at the specs for a 225/45/17" tire on Tire Rack:

Go up to an 8" wheel, if the tire MINIMUM approved fitment per manufacturer says at least a 7.5" wheel. You may be looking at the spec page and the numbers given are relatve to the wheel in which it is mounted, not the wheels in which it fits. That is to say, look at the specs for a 225/45/17" tire on Tire Rack:

Note the "Rim width range" is 7"~8.5", but the measurements given on that example was this tire mounted onto a 7.5" wheel and refered to as "Measured rim width".

Does that make sense?

Jazzer

Yes thanks. I kept seeing the range but didn't know where I should be in the range. Would be so much easier if they just said 8" or 7" and be done with it. I was thinking the 7.5 was the ideal rim width but like you pointed out it's the width they used for measurement. From other things I've seen in this thread I guess I'll be ordering the 8" rims.

Yes... it can be a bit confusing, but the taller the sidewall, the more options one has for wheels due to its flexability. Conversely, the lower the profile, the less flexability. The Michelin PS2, for example, in a 295/25/22" is only good for between a 10"~11" wheel, where the 205/50/17" is good for a 5.5~7.5" wheel. This is a full 1" more variable in the same tire line, only a lower profile sidewall.

quick question - '04 GT - stock suspension, daily driver, no track, no street racing
I have 18x9, 18x10 combo - ready to replace the set of 245/40, 275/40 on there. I would like to go wider in the front because the rim lip sticks out and causes curb rash (too late now). My issue is that I don't want a super-low profile tire to make the ride too harsh. Can I do 275/40 in the front without rubbing issue? I'm not so concerned about turn-in response and the way the roads are around here, I believe a 35 profile will lead to dented rims. Thinking 275/40, 295/40. Is this doable? Thanks

You can properly fit a 275/35/18" up front for an approved fit and OEM diameter. I would NOT recommend you run a 40 series as you will give your ABS braking system some fits, as the diameter is 1" larger than the rears (This assumes you are running a 35 series 285 or something out back). You will have a bit less of a harsh ride, going 275's on the same brand of tire, but happen to think a 265 is a bit better fit. A 275 will probably rub a bit in a location or two and a 265 should not.

If you go 40 series up front, you really need to go up to a 35 series out back to avoid any ABS sensor issues. This will raise your car up an additional 1/2" and effectively reduce your gearing a bit and throw your speedo off by about 5 MPH at 70 MPH speeds. The speedo/ODO accuracy can be corrected via hand-held tuner, but the gearing issues could only be addressed via new rear-end gears if you decided you didn't like the change. It would not be a big change in gearing, but would be a change none the less.

Jazzer

PS. Re-reading your post and my response. I am a bit confused here.. What are your current size of tires both front and back?

245/40/18 & 275/40/18 are on there now. Due for a new set before the spring season and wasn't crazy about the way the 245/40 looked on the 18x9 front wheels. I can certainly use this size combo again but figured now would be the time to change it.

One of my main concerns is not having enough sidewall to absorb NJ/NY potholes and damaging rims. Seems to be more tire options with the 245/40, 275/40 sizes.

You will have no ABS sensor issues and offer better protection via same size tires at all four corners for sure. I think that any tire in a 40 series is gonna be fine, unless you have like 1' deep potholes

nice info. im a little add and im not sure if this helped with the problem im facing. but i was wondering if staggering treads was a good idea. i noticed that bfgoodrich makes two tires i really like, the kdw's and the drag radials. since they have similar treads do u think it would b a good idea to put the kdw's in the front and the drag radials in the back. i was going to wrap them around 10 and 9 inch wide 17's. safe or not?

I am not a big fan of a "true" DR on a DD ride, as the sidewalls are not very supportive for cornering. Even if you don't corner aggressively, this can be an issue on a such a tire as an M/T DR. I would be willing to bet the BFG's are not soo soft as to create the issue I described here.

If the BFG is not a very soft sidewall like the M/T, I see no issue going with them out back, while the traditional up front. Just take your first few corners slowly to see how the respond to lateral loads. Slowly go a bit faster each time to see how they react in more aggressive turns, as you may not plan on one, but have to one day on the street.

The idea of a high-profile DR, is to have flexability in the sidewalls for the sling-shot effect upon launch. The shorter the sidewall, the less of this "rubber-band" reduces your effective grip off the line. This is why pepes typically go with a 15" wheel and squeeze a 28" tire under the rear end. This tire is great for launching, but can be horribly unstable on the street.

What are the chances you can get a set of such wheels/tires for track days? Every bit one reduces the sidewall, the less effective the tire. You may have to compromise to maintain only a single set of tires/wheels.

honestly, im just starting out. im 20 years old, and my dad thinks an 86 fuel injected is going to b a good starter, and im looking ahead for what im really going to do. i wasnt really sure about what tires to start out with, and i want it to look good, while performing great. i figured a radial would push it forward while some track tires would keep it on the road. i plan on getting 500 out of it one day so i think bringing tires into this was a good idea. i dont even have the car yet but its nice to think about. how much does ur saleen push? thx for posting on my other thread by the way.

I think you are wise to consider tires, as this is very nearly an afterthought by those looking to mod his/her ride. Usually, they are only considered after a boost of about 175 HP and current tires are bald. Then..... he/she wants... "the best set of tires I can find for $250, because I want to install a new set of cams before my next dyno trip" Brakes don't even get considered until they are squealing like a pig the same approach is applied to those as well.

Tires are the single most important item, next to the driver, keeping the car on the road!

There are plenty of good tires out there and a set of Nitto 555's will do most a good job at both grip and mileage. They will do fine in the wet, but need to drive more conservative in such conditions than most passenger tires. Go through the Choosing a new tire link at the first post of this thread. This is a nice way to narrow down choices and will find Tire Rack has some good prices on tires.

Jazzer

I am running a whopping 248 HP I have no interest in going high-speed, but I must admit that another 150 would be helpful on the AX course

The axles don't have anything to do with larger tires, it is the fender wells that are your enemy here The off-set is a big one as well, but addressed with a 5 lug conversion.

If doing brakes, be SURE to check out my Brakes Upgrade thread, as it is a MUST DO for the Fox Body. The brakes outright SUCK on them and I know. I had an '85 for over 20 years and wish I knew then what I know now about brakes

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