Monday, June 25, 2018

There’s no place like home – when it comes to growing
Riesling. That would be Germany (which welcomed the migrant grape from Austria,
300 years ago, actually).

The world’s largest and arguably the best Riesling grower
by a mile, Germany’s still #1 and its red wines are getting better, too, thanks
to global warming!

From parts of the Mosel Valley that resemble the
mountains of Machu Picchu (it’s not farming, it’s climbing), to the rolling southern
hills of the Pfalz, Germany’s Tuscany, there’s every style of elegant Riesling.There's no grape that more truly expresses the terroir of its origins while maintaining fruit, finesse and minerality. Its crispy acidity lends the wine a racy freshness and aging potential.

Wine consumption on the rise in Germany and a new
generation of motivated young winemakers is re-energizing centuries-old Teutonic
quality.

Take Graacher Domprobst, for example, the off-dry
star from the Selbach Oster family in the Mosel: ancient vines, rich, spicy-smoky
flavors of apricot-pear and dried fruits, ageable and delicious now, $35.

Meanwhile, there’s more to New Zealand than Hobbits and
Middle Earth. If you want to be a trendsetter, buy some New Zealand Riesling! Stunningly
good, unheralded, almost unobtainable except through private wine agencies.

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Happy unbirthday! Today may not be your birthday, but here’s
an idea for when it comes: the Reverse Birthday! YOU give the gifts.

Mine was Sunday and my lovely wife, Lavell, had the idea.

At our gardening friend Lesley’s Peony Party (no jokes,
please) we put out an array of T-shirts and rainbow-hued socks and announced, “These
are for you all. Happy birthday to me!”

Huge hit. Someone had brought a homemade Virginia Sponge
Cake and it was time to open the vino. Do try this at home. Perhaps at a backyard
barbecue.

A good way to start the BBQ party would be Chateau des
Charmes Sauvignon Blanc 2017, $16, the perfect Pinot Grigio slayer, as a fresh,
crisp (unoaked) aperitif in an easy gooseberry/citrus style. With the salad or
with oysters.

Carnivores will love the Chateau’s 2016 Cabernet-Merlot, an
elegantly fruity blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv and Merlot aged 9 months in French
oak, also $16. Ageable but why wait?

If you’re craving Pinot Noir, there’s a great 2016 just
under the radar, from Angels Gate, truly Burgundian in its finesse and flavors,
showing berry fruits, spring flowers, cherry and raspberry notes and gentle tannins.