Wednesday, August 18, 2010

MAKING THE PINK DRESS

I had a few things to share with you on this post, some good news, some about troublesome patterns. Let’s talk about the pattern first;

As you probably had notice, I use commercial patterns as base for most of my work. I used to make my own patterns, but having such a great selection, why spend the time making it? I take a commercial pattern, and altarate to what I want, it is easier and faster…till now!

I used BOF 12/08 _107 as the base for the charmuese and lace dress. I had decided to use the 103 of the same months for my next dress. Of course, it was just going to be a base to which I would add my own twist.

I traced the garment front bodice and the front skirt, cut it on a diagonal to add fullness to both, front bodice and skirt, for a drape.To try out my pattern, I cut a piace of poly charmuese I had [the dress will be made on silk charmuese] The drape look great, I was really happy with it, so I move alone to cut the other parts of the bodice to check fit, dart placement etc. I don’t normally worry about

dart placements , but there was something about the this pattern, specially the front bodice lining, where the darts are, that just did not look right

I cut, both back and front on muslin, sew them together and place it on the mannequin. The fun began! First, although I had added it ¾” for seam allowance, across the bust line I need it an extra 1”. The back has, on the same area [cross shoulder blades], an extra 2” ???? The back was not much of an issue, having princess seams I could take care of it easy, now the front was not as easy. I thought, ok I just add that extra 1” at the bust and all will be fine, now I had to mention I did increase the dart at waist line, the fullness below the bust was also exaggerated.

So there I was with the new muslin for the front bodice with the extra 1” thinking this would be it. So I thought! The darts were too low, to skimpy I had to re-work them, lower the side seam dart placement, add curve to the waist dart and make them even deeper that I had already.

This change the inter front, I most have done it 4 times till finally I got it right. I’ll tell you, it would had being faster if I had make the pattern. This is not a good pattern form BOF, and to think I have to make, yet another dress like this one…but about that in a bit. In the mean time here are some pics the dress coming alone

I had mentioned previous posts some things I was working on. Last summer I got a contact on one of the Spanish TV channels here in Miami. The idea was for me to show them my work and see what we could collaborate. With the changes that happen last year for me, I had to put it aside.

Now with some new dresses, I got in touch with them and after several attends to meet up, I had the opportunity to meet up with them. The wardrobe department’s director loved my work and wants to use some of my dresses on an upcoming “Novela” Soup Opera. It is not a done deal, but things are moving on good direction, I think!

So needless to say, I had being busy making other dresses to bring to her. She did give me the measurements for both main actress [the reason why I making the PINK dress in two sizes, my sample size and one of the actress].

I have also [finally] hook up with some photographers here in South Florida that would like to use my designs on some of their shoots [More Dresses to make, thank God I do have fabrics!] As you could see this year things are looking better [Thank God].

Now, the last news! I need it [yet another] sewing books like a need a hole in my head but, I could not help it and get this McCall’s Vintage book… I mean, really how many sewing books do you see with a man taking a hem? Yeah I know Kenneth D. King have several books and he is on the cover of the last one, but a Vintage book from a commercial pattern company?

I saw the cover of the book a while back on the net and when I saw it on Ebay, for $0.99 I HAD to have it! By looking at it I could tell it is well written, the pics are great, I will take a chance to read it and would let you know what I think of it.

3 comments:

So much is going on in your life and all so positive! I am happy for you. Both the yellow and the pink dress look wonderful to me but the pink one clearly has more finesse with the design lines. You are such an expert with a wonderfully trained eye. I am so glad about the wonderful things happening for you, y una telenovela, Dios Mio!