Fish Story

Fat Can Be Beautiful, And In Tuna It Is

October 18, 1987|By Pierre Franey, New York Times News Service.

I have become increasingly fascinated with tuna. Until a few weeks ago I assumed that the only factor in selecting tuna was freshness. But while sharing a lunch of sushi with Japanese friends, I learned that the fat content is equally important.

``In Japan, the cost of tuna and its quality are determined largely by its fatty nature,`` one friend said.

``The choicest part of the tuna is cut from the belly,`` the friend went on, ``and it is called toro. Ordinary tuna, and the kind you find at most sushi counters, is called maguro.``

When I cooked the toro, the fattier cut, I found the difference between it and the run-of-the-mill tuna quite remarkable. When toro is cooked, it is light pink and less lean in texture. It has a rich flavor that is almost butterlike.

Toro costs $10 a pound, maguro $7 a pound.

Either may be used in preparing the recipe outlined here. It is a simple dish that may be cooked on a charcoal or gas grill or under a broiler. The seasonings include thyme, garlic, hot red pepper flakes and lemon rind.

There are two excellent accompaniments: a cold salad made with sliced zucchini, tomatoes and mozzarella cheese, and parsley potatoes.

GRILLED TUNA WITH HERBS

Four servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 5 to 6 minutes

1 slab of tuna, preferably from the belly portion, about 3/4 pounds

Salt to taste if desired

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1/4 cup olive oil

6 sprigs fresh thyme

2 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into very thin slices

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 strips lemon rind

1/8 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon melted butter

1. Preheat charcoal or gas grill or broiler to high.

2. Sprinkle tuna with salt and pepper on both sides. Place oil in a flat dish and add thyme, garlic, lemon juice, lemon rind and hot red pepper flakes. Add tuna and coat on both sides.

3. Remove tuna from the marinade. Add butter to marinade, and place the dish in a warm place.

4. If tuna is to be cooked on a charcoal or gas grill, place it directly on the grill, fatty side down, and cook, turning often, 5 to 6 minutes. If it is to be cooked under a broiler, arrange tuna on a rack, fatty side up. Broil about 2 inches from heat, leaving broiler door partly open. Cook 3 minutes and turn; continue cooking 2 minutes. Transfer tuna to marinade. Turn tuna to coat on both sides. Cut into thin slices and serve.

ZUCCHINI, TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA SALAD

Four servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 2 minutes

1 zucchini, about 1 pound

1 or 2 red, ripe tomatoes, about 3/4 pound

6 ounces mozzarella cheese

Salt to taste if desired

Freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

Fresh basil sprigs or leaves for garnish

1. Trim off ends of zucchini. Cut it on bias into 12 slices of about the same size.

2. Bring enough water to boil to cover zucchini slices when added. Add slices and cook 1 1/2 minutes; do not overcook. Drain.

5. Arrange zucchini, tomato and mozzarella slices, slightly overlapping, in a circle on a serving dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

6. Combine vinegar and oil in a bowl and stir. Sprinkle the sauce evenly over the salad. Garnish with basil sprigs or leaves and serve.

PARSLEY POTATOES

Four servings

Preparation time: 8 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes

12 small, red, new potatoes, about 1 pound

Salt to taste if desired

1 tablespoon butter

3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1. Do not peel potatoes. Split each in half and trim off and discard a small portion of the end of each potato half.

2. Put potatoes in a saucepan; add water to cover, and salt. Cook about 8 minutes or until tender. Drain. Return potatoes to the saucepan and add butter. Toss briefly and sprinkle with parsley before serving. -