Of course I’ve been aware for most of my life of the obvious and iconic examples of Japanese culture: sumo, geishas, the food, the blue and white dinner ware, Mount Fuji, the gardens, kimonos, tea ceremonies, samurai, and sushi. Even so Japan was never at the top of my list of countries to visit because I thought the culture had been subsumed by chrome, glass, technology, industrialisation, and “modern life”, and I am most attracted to the exotic. I could not have been more wrong. The Japanese culture is alive and well and I’m humbled by my ignorance that I could have thought otherwise. Japan is still Japan. What was I expecting? I feel kind of embarrassed actually, and see now what is, and always has been, obvious. The Japanese people are still a product of their very ancient culture and live it every day. Only the Japanese could or would make a garden out of rocks; and have it be a thing of beauty.

The longer I am here the more the Japanese way seeps in, and I am in awe. The bowing, at times made fun of in the West, is so full of grace and polite respect. I am humbled by it, and find myself bowing back every time. This is not to say that everyone does it all the time. The teenager working in a convenience store is unlikely to give more than a nod of the head, and often barely even that. But then there are the times you get the full court bow and it’s so full of respect and acknowledgement that I’m bowled over by it.

Perhaps I’m projecting, but it seems to me that the Japanese, more than any other culture I’ve experienced, are raised to respect others; to respect their property, to respect their space, and to respect their right to be safe. It does mean a lot of following rules, but since, in such a crowded country the rules make sense everyone obeys them. I love that I feel safe enough here that I can go out alone at night.

Even in the crowded and insanely busy Tokyo metro stations there is an energy of purpose and grace. People move quickly, focused on their goal, but at the same time the feeling of respect for others is there. They always seem to be aware of their surroundings, and make sure to give others their space at the same time as claiming their own. Backpacks and other bags are kept tight to the body so as not to annoy others, the stand-only-on-the-left rule on the escalator is obeyed, as is the rule of no music or other noise in the trains. It occurs to me that they must be raised in this way, taught that all this is simply good manners.

Their love of order is apparent even in the most crowded places. Almost no one crosses at a red light even if there is no traffic around; I did see it a couple of times, but it is rare. People line up, and your place in line is always respected. They say thank you. A lot. And then they bow to you. The result is that I feel really seen, and it is completely disarming. Awareness of, and kindness towards others seems to be an expected standard for living. Still, I don’t want to paint too romantic a picture. In overhearing a man in the bar/restaurant of my hostel in Kyoto, I gather that fisherman and wharf workers are much the same here as in any other country; a pretty wild bunch. And a friend who has lived here for many years tells me that the people have a public persona and a private persona. I think this is universally true, but it seems to be more pronounced in Japan, and perhaps not unrelated, alcoholism is a significant problem.

There’s a great dichotomy in Japanese society. Despite the many rules that seem to keep everyone in line there still flourishes the most outrageous creativity. It seems to burst forth not despite the order in society but perhaps because of it. It is seen in the art of TakashiMurakami and YayoiKusama; in the exotic creations of the generation of “Fruits” – teenagers who would hang around on weekends in the Harajuku area of Tokyo back in the 80’s and 90’s; and today in the Lolitas, and those that are into cosplay.

S/he was kind enough to let me photograph her, and even waited patiently while I changed lenses.

I think she was chatting with friends. She seemed very shy, and perhaps a little uncomfortable with her outfit, as if she needed more of her own kind to hang out with.

Yes, there is a lot of chrome and glass, modern technology and industrialisation, but there is great creativity and originality, and there are also rich traditions that live on and are deeply honoured to this day.

I was lucky enough to come across a traditional wedding party at the Ōkunitama Shrine in Fuchu City, in the Tokyo metropolitan area.

At the same shrine I attended the most extraordinary ancient festival – Kurayami Matsuri – held annually to provide new power to the gods, derived from an ancient ritual gathering of peasants and farmers. The Kurayami Festival is one of the most powerful local festivals I’ve attended and deserves it’s own post, but here are a couple of photos to get you curious.

I participated in another ritual, hundreds of years old, to bring good fortune to the area where my hostel is located in Tokyo.

I want to say that this is the Japan that excites me the most – these displays of iconic Japan pre-industrialisation, (the traditional dress and rituals) but I am equally excited by a society that produces such artists as Murakami and Kusama. Their work is so outrageous, and so Japanese.

In truth I’ve spent a total of two weeks here and know very little about the country’s history or culture. Woefully ignorant actually. So these are just my musings about what I’ve observed, and what I’ve been sensing as I experience Japan for the first time.

Travelling solo so far has been completely doable. The best thing I did was to have a guide for my first day in Tokyo to help me understand the metro and train system. With Osamu’s kind and thorough instruction I’ve been able to figure out how to get everywhere I’ve wanted to go. When needed I’ve always been able to find a local person with enough English, or a fellow tourist, to help me. The best word I’ve learned in Japanese is sumimasen. It means excuse me and can be used as an introduction to just about any conversation. So all my fears about the simple logistics of travel were unfounded. On the other hand I miss Don very much. I don’t really like travelling alone, but I’m getting used to it.

The eight days I spent in Tokyo were in turn exciting, exhausting, frustrating, intense, and occasionally peaceful. The crowds were legendary! There will be several posts to come about my time there. For the past two days I’ve been in rural Japan visiting a couple of UNESCO World Heritage villages, doing a little hiking, and soaking up the quiet of the countryside and the spring flowers. It has been a welcome respite after the frenzy of the city. More posts to come about that too. Japan is a revelation.

Thanks BF. No, I didn’t buy no $13 strawberries, but I did actually find, and buy, some strawberries for a reasonable price in Tokyo. Not so here in Kyoto.
I have a wide angle 12-60 that I use almost all the time. Every now and then I change to the zoom, and then after about 5 minutes I have to change back again. I do miss my wide angle/zoom all in one, but I’ve got a bigger sensor 🙂
Alison

It seems to me that the “culture shock” of visiting Japan might be the very presence of respect and the importance placed on order and manners! I love the contrast that you describe between the very frenetic city-life of Tokyo and the peaceful beauty of the countryside. My fears when traveling solo for the first time were all about the logistics and getting lost and your decision to hire a guide for your first day in Tokyo obviously made your time there so much more enjoyable. Traveling alone is definitely doable but I definitely get the something missing aspect with the absence of your 24-7 best friend and the joy of sharing the whole exotic experience of Japan. I’m so happy that you are having a great time and awed by the people, the traditional culture, the outrageous wackiness of the costumes, the futuristic modernity and the small details like the beauty of a rock garden. Enjoy it all! Anita

Thanks Anita. I am having a good time, and yes, hiring a guide for the first day was the best thing I could have done to make this trip workable for me. I think without I’d have arrived in Tokyo and just freaked out. Thanks to the guide logistics are going well so far. Apart from learning how the transport system works, it gave me confidence to do it myself. Oh yes, I do miss my 24/7 best friend, but still able to be amazed by what I’m experiencing. We Face Time just about every morning.
Alison

This post is bringing a lot of memories back for me, as I spent almost three years in Japan 1986-89. I was doing a lot of writing for English magazines and working with interpreters, so I learned a lot about Japan. In many ways, the culture was not agreeable to me because it was so rigid. I hated the lack of emotional expression in public, and loved taking holidays to Korea or The Philippines, where people were so real and expressive. I lived with a Japanese family for about a year, and will say that they (and Japanese in general) are really easy to live with – probably because of the respect for personal space.

I hated the men staggering around peeing on the streets and reeking of whiskey at night. And I hated the feeling that I was living in a world seemingly without air, sky and earth. Unfortunately I never got out of Tokyo and felt that I spent all my time in trains that deposited me into eight story department buildings.

On the other hand, I loved Japan visually. And I loved the tremendous attention that paid to detail and beauty with things so simple as serving a cup of coffee. I saw incredible generosity among the Japanese, and the sense of safety and security was amazing. One time I forget my wallet, and just went to the ticket office, where they gave me my train fare and little slip of paper explaining how to pay it back!

All in all, it was a fascinating time.

I’ll never forget what an international businessman I interviewed for my work told me about Japan, which I thought was insightful and brilliant.

He said: “Japan is a society of guessing. The better you are at guessing, the better you will do in Japan”.

I must say I’m glad I’ve not experienced any drunken men at night, but then I don’t go out must at night, and definitely not later at night. I’ve read about them gong straight to the bar from work and basically drinking until midnight.
I don’t think I could live with the lack of emotional expression for any length of time either being the Queen of Emotional Expression myself.
Like you I love the attention to detail, and the sense of security. I love that I feel safe to go out alone at night.
I doubt I’d do well here long term – I’m not very good at guessing 🙂
Alison

Actually I would have been surprised if you ended up not liking Japan. It is such a special place, isn’t it? The Japanese produce some of the world’s most advanced machines and robots, yet they’re also known for their quirkiness and all things kawaii (cute). Many ancient traditions not only are alive, but they’re also thriving in the 21st century. Speaking of culture, what I like the most about the Japanese is they grew up learning not to impose themselves over other people. Talking on your phone while in public transport is a big no, but if you really really need to pick up that call, you’ll make sure to stay away from most passengers and talk as quietly as possible. A friend of mine who studied in Japan for a couple of years said that no country beats Japan when it comes to customer service. It certainly is a place I can see myself returning for so many times in the future. Glad you really enjoyed Japan, Alison!

Thanks Bama. I do like it, and at the same time I’m finding it hard to digest – not in a bad way, but it seems so very unlike any other place I’ve been to, and I feel as if I can’t get a grasp on it. They are an extraordinary people – so much creativity, so much striving for perfection, so much consideration for others, and yes, the customer service is fantastic. At the same time I feel as if I’d be a huge fish out of water living here. I find the Japanese somehow mysterious. Perhaps it’s because they are so self-contained. It’s not anything I’ve experienced directly. Everyone I’ve spoken with has been open and friendly and helpful. It’s just a feeling I have that they are so different from me that I’ll never get them.
Alison

Lovely writing and photos as always Alison! Interesting to read how you had thought industralisation had ruined Japan for you. The thought never crossed my mind, with even the salaryman culture so foreign to me! If you feel like a good read, Amelie Nothomb’s Fear and Trembling will give you another perspective 😊 Also Sujata Massey’s books starring Rei Shimura are great for a Japanese mood.

Thanks so much TSMS. I don’t any more think industrialization has ruined Japan that’s for sure. My discovery had been that I’m sure it was different in the past but it’s still Japan. How silly of me that I would not realize that. Thanks for the reading tips.
Alison

I particularly enjoyed your self assessment about your own prior bias that there is nothing to see there, thinking that modern Japan had obliterated traditional Japan. I was lucky enough to live in Japan twice, for a total of five years and one of the two stays was in Nagoya, a mid sized city, hours from Tokyo. My Japan reality could not have been more different between life in Tokyo versus life in non Tokyo. Yes, traditional Japan is alive and well.

There is an expression in Japan that any nail that sticks out needs to be hammered back in. This is a core concept which runs through both the educational system (where one is encouraged to provide scripted answers to questions and creativity or unique thought are not only not rewarded, they are highly discouraged), and in corporate life (where the search for consensus is primordial and again divergent thought is not rewarded). Interestingly enough when you point to Harajuku, or the “little bo peeps” as evidence that originality does pierce through the armor, I am tempted to argue with that… because it is just a different kind of homogeneity. The slightly uncomfortable little bo peep type costumed girl who you photographed, in isolation, could seem wildly creative and adventurous, but in fact, she is not, she too is mimicking the rest of her tribe who all wear the same “outrageous’ outfits, so that ultimately, even in that expression of individuality, there is no individuality. This is not to pop your bubble about Japanese individuality, I see this more as yet another layer in a thoroughly complex society which strives to manage social harmony as best it can.

I do resonate entirely with your observations about what your friend mentioned re the inner and outer worlds. There is a great concept in Japanese language and culture, called “Tatemae” (the image you want to present to the world) and “Honne” (the core truth) and once you accept that you live in a society where it is perfectly reasonable to say anything which has nothing to do with the truth but which is required to keep social harmony, then you are not troubled by pesky Western obsession with things like truthfulness, honesty, directness.

To bring all this to a current clash point which will prove very interesting in the month and years to come, the recent #metoo movement that is blowing through the U.S. and increasingly other Western societies, is running into a major roadblock in Japan. It is well known that Japan has some of the most extreme sexist behaviors, that the frequency of women being harassed in the workplace is off the chart. Yet, the #metoo movement has not taken off in Japan. It can’t because it would lead to social disharmony. Until it does. It may. And when it does, for the same reasons that all the Harajuku kids dress and behave “uniquely”, yet together, the #metoo movement in Japan, if it ever pierces through, will be a tsunami of devastating consequences. My guess is that it will require many female nails to be hammered as they attempt to stick out for a moment of #metoo “honne”, and the “tatemae” that sexual harassment is a Western problem, not a Japanese reality, will prevail.

Thanks Ben for your long and thoughtful comment. I think hammering in any nail that sticks out is to be found in many cultures – in Australia it is called the tall poppy syndrome (hammer back down anyone who’s successful) though for sure it feels was if it’s taken to a much greater extreme in Japan.

I must disagree with you about the Lolitas, Fruits (that was the name of the magazine that documented them), and the Bo-peeps (who must be categorized as a Lolita, and it’s a pity she was alone). I think they are no different than “rebellious” teenagers in any country. Remember when punk arrived and suddenly just about every teenager was wearing safety pins, or rockers before that with their greased hair. I think it’s universal, and of course they hang out with others like them – it’s about finding their “tribe” as they grow up and separate from their parents. So I definitely wouldn’t dismiss the phenomenon in Japan as being another kind of conformity, unless it’s comforming to their age group in the process of becoming adult. I don’t think that phenomenon is any different in Japan than elsewhere. And OMG the creativity in the outfits of the Fruits especially – I’ve never seen anything like it.

I do agree that the #metoo movement would be a major shock to current Japanese society, but of course the problem is not uniquely Japanese. I’m thinking of Saudi Arabia and Pakistan for instance. And female nails have been hammered in for hundreds of years. Think of the suffragette movement in England – women were beaten, imprisoned, force fed. I get what you’re saying. I just don’t think it’s uniquely Japanese. Or that the problem is worse here than in several other cultures, or that it wasn’t as bad in the west just a blip in time ago.
Alison

I must admit that I have (had) many of the same preconceived ideas about Japan as you did. But your posts and many others I have read recently have completely rattled these notions. Japan has moved from far down my travel list to way up at the top now. Your descriptions of Japan’s dichotomies are fascinating and I look forward to more posts (especially about the festival). I’m glad you are settling into solo travel. Enjoy! Caroline

Thanks Caroline. Japan’s fascinating. Hard to get a handle on, but fascinating. I’ve definitely only barely scratched the surface. Solo travel’s okay now I’ve gotten used to it, but I still miss Don. I’ve (re)learned that I’m capable! And much of it has been amazing!
Alison

I knew you would love Japan, Alison – I can’t think of anyone I met who went and didn’t enjoy their time there. Even though you were in Tokyo during the crush of Golden Week, it sounds like the timing was just right because of Kurayami Matsuri. The Japanese really do have the art of politeness down to a tee… I too have never encountered people who are as considerate and orderly in public, and Bama and I got a bout of reverse culture shock when we came back to the chaos and rule-bending behavior so prevalent in Indonesia! Of course all that rigid orderliness and pressure to conform does have its downsides as Ben pointed out… I don’t know if I could ever fully adjust to Japanese norms and customs if I went there to live and work.

OMG that must have been mind blowing to return to Indonesia after Japan. I love that Japan is so orderly and organized, but I also love the chaos of India, so no doubt I’d love the chaos of Indonesia too. It was so worth being in Tokyo for Kurayami Matsuri even if it was Golden Week and the crowds were off the charts. I’m sure I’d never survive here. I’m too emotional – and have come to terms with it. I think the desire to be in control is pretty universal, it’s just more pronounced, and more ingrained in Japan. I used to want to be able to be cool and calm, and I just wasn’t. Now I love that I can be real with myself. Oh the humanity!
Alison

We were just talking today about the way in Japan (or elsewhere in the Japanese people), extraordinary creativity erupts out of a regimented society, using Kusama as an example. I appreciate the freshness of your observations and the honesty of your writing so much. And once more I’m happy for you in a shamelessly vicarious way, because I can imagine myself in a similar situation and feel relieved to hear it’s all going well – not without difficulties I’m sure, but the richness of the experience is clear. And your photos are so good! I love the man with the flowery ceremonial pole, and the guys on the huge drums. Cheers!

Thanks so much Lynn. All *is* going well, and the difficulties have been very few – mostly missing Don, and taking a few minor wrong turns. It continues to be a very rich experience, and as I near the end I wish I had more time. There’s so much to see and do just in the three places I’ve visited and that’s only on one of Japan’s islands.
Alison

I so enjoy reading your thoughts on the places you visit along with all the comments left by readers. But I still can never get enough of your pictures. They are just exquisite, and for those of us who visit many of the places you visit they provide such beautiful reminders. Thank you.

I’ve been so eager to hear about how you are faring and what you are thinking, so it was great to get this first real glimpse from you. I loved your observations and reactions, and I also appreciated Ben’s take after his time there. Someday I’d like to have my own chance to form some opinions on this most interesting country!

Thanks Lexie. It’s been such an adventure so far – the travelling alone, and the exploration of Japan. It’s a very amazing and fascinating culture that I can’t quite put my finger on. I think I’d have to be here for years to even begin to understand the enigma of it – rigid and flamboyant all at the same time. It is a most interesting country and I hope you get to experience it for yourself one day.
Alison

You describe one of the things we loved most about our time in Tokyo – respect and consideration of everyone and everything. But we came to the conclusion that this was as much about following rules as anything else and that when there are no rules to follow Tokyoites are as inconsiderate as everyone else. Riding bikes on pavements was a bugbear! And like Green Global Trek we felt that creativity/originality was conformity in disguise. But we loved it. And found it thought provoking and challenging. Just what travel should be.

Oh I do agree that the respect and consideration comes mostly from following rules, but I think it’s the same in any culture. We’re all taught the rules by our parents from very young. I think Japanese rules are more strictly taught and enforced. And I’m not remotely surprised to hear that Tokyoites (and no doubt all Japanese) can be as inconsiderate as anyone when they’re not bound by the rules. That makes perfect sense. I don’t agree with Ben about the creativity being conformity in disguise – not with the Fruits, and certainly not with artists such as Murakami and Kusama. This culture, however rule bound still produces artists like them and many others of that ilk. The conformity is there for sure, and maybe it’s more pronounced in Japan than in other cultures, but we all conform to a greater or lesser extent, and we’re all taught the rules of the society we live in. I’m not saying Japan’s way of doing it is necessarily a good way, I guess I just feel that it’s not all bad either. And yes, like you I’ve definitely found it thought-provoking, and no doubt if I spent any length of time here like you did I’d find it challenging too.
I guess I just assumed riding bikes on pavements was allowed here since so many people do it.
I didn’t get to see any sumo – ran out of time 😦
Alison

There needs to be a love button for your blog Alison. I so enjoyed this post and have been looking forward to it for days. I too am woefully ignorant about most ‘things’ Japan and had not put it high on my travel list. After reading this post I plan to change that, particularly since it is a destination that can be done on a solo basis. Since I value respect and rules so much, I would love to experience this culture. Your photography is beautiful. You seem to already have mastered that new camera. Looking forward to the next post.

Aw thanks so much Lu Ann. You’re so sweet. I’m glad you enjoyed the post. I really thought about how it’s been here for me, and what I’ve observed, and felt, about the people. I know it’s not a perfect society – which doesn’t exist of course, but the Japanese way is so fascinating, and the people so helpful and friendly. And yes, it’s safe to travel solo here. And also I’ve found despite language issues I’ve always been able to find the help I needed.
Alison

We were lucky enough to be guided by our son and daughter in law who had lived there for a couple of years, but we felt very safe and so impressed by the customer service displayed by everybody. We weren’t in Tokyo, but saw many of the sites of Kyoto and took the trains or drove to a few destinations.

Sounds like you had a wonderful time in Japan. It’s always so good to have someone “on the ground” when you visit a new place. There’s nothing like being with people who can show you around. I wish I had more time in Kyoto.
Alison

Glad to hear your solo journey is going well, Alison. As always, I enjoyed your photos and observations. My two favorite photos: The bridal party… the headpiece the young woman is wearing made me smile. I wondered if it is traditional. Two, the huge drums with the men standing on top. I wonder if they are still there when the drums are beaten? That would be an interesting experience. –Curt

Thanks Curt. I believe the bride’s headpiece is traditional, and yes those guys were on top of those drums for over an hour on one day and several hours on the next, as they were being pulled along the street, and as they were being beaten hard on both sides by men on the ground. There were 5 drums. Three of them had 4 men on top, one had only 2, and the 5th had maybe 6 or 7 men on top. It was quite crowded. You can see it in the photo. I saw one of them slip off once and another almost follow him. They managed to grab a hold of ropes to break the fall.
Alison

Thanks Jeff. There’s much more to come about Kurayami and I’m going to another huge festival in Kyoto tomorrow. The festivals here are amazing. And, yeah, way exotic. It’s been a real eye opener for me. I love to go to Greece one day . . . .
Alison

I’ve met 2 Calgarians who were Japanese and didn’t come to live in Canada until they were adults. They are polite but each person would not fit well with the conforming society of public facing social harmony in Japan. 1 returned (after breaking up with her First Nations boyfriend). She seems to be subject to unusual skin allergies…and has all sorts of homeopathic remedies.

I guess I judge wrongly or rightly a society by how the women and girls are in that society. Are they free to fully express themselves individually and fully apply their university education in jobs, etc.? Advance in their careers?

By contrast, the sheer diversity and self-expression of China is nearly cacophony. Not that I haven’t been to China but I’m willing to bet far less rigidity for women. All you have to do is meet recent adult immigrants from China.

Nevertheless Japan’s overall respect to preserve their heritage buildings, festivals and rural Japan is great. I’ve heard others say, much better than China which is hell-bent on ripping up a lot of old China. A Chinese-Canadian friend here who lived and taught in Tokyo for a year, felt that the snobbery by urban folks to the rural, was far less. Not surprising since in China, rural folks are seen as work mules at a cheaper rate in the cities.

Your second paragraph resonates very much for me. However I’m not convinced that Chinese women are any less repressed than Japanese women or women anywhere really. The number of women in the world who have true freedom is really a minute percentage. Most are repressed one way or another. Sometimes it’s very subtle. Sometimes it’s way in your face like in Saudi Arabia. I honestly really don’t know how it is for Japanese women. Certainly they’re allowed to work so must have some level of economic freedom. And certainly they go to university. Education is highly valued here. I think Japanese woman have quite a lot of autonomy.
And yes, the Japanese have huge respect for their heritage buildings, festivals, traditional gardens, etc. I’m off to another festival tomorrow that dates back hundreds of years.
Alison

” An analysis of women’s place in the workforce in Japan in fact shows that the gender pay gap is one of the largest among developed nations. According to OECD data from 2013, the median working male earns 26.6% more than the median working woman. As highlighted by Chizuko Ueno in a lecture at the University of Chicago, almost two-thirds of working Japanese women are referred to as “temporary” or “irregular” workers. This means that they have no standing within the company that they work for and can be eliminated at will.
Given the declining Japanese population and the growing need for labor, the top priority of the Japanese government should be to create a more inclusive workforce for both genders, but with female representation in the Diet consistently hovering under a dismal 10%, it seems unlikely.”

80% of Japanese women are now college or university-educated.

China has its own challenges ..where feminism was initially tied with communism because original intent was to eradicate prostitution, etc. Now some women are arrested simply for speaking out …which is perceived speaking against the Communist govn’t . http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-34971739

Anyway worth considering that the Japanese nationals in VAncouver taking English classes…are probably there also because they are free to be themselves with less restrictions to their gender.

I have loved seeing all your photos on social media Alison and am so glad you are having an amazing trip. I visited Japan at least 25 years ago and I was too young in a sense to appreciate it. I would love to go back and experience the culture.

Wow, this is a fascinating post and the comments are great, too. Japan is a unique place — truly special in the world, as you’ve discovered. Love seeing it through your eyes and experiences. Your photos and Insta posts are incredible. Can’t wait to read more! xo, K&J

Thanks Kelly. I found Japan quite amazing. It was not an easy time because of missing Don and dealing with body issues (really getting over the fear that I’d make things worse if I kept up my usual travel pace – and discovering that I can! – I’m as fit as I’ve ever been but getting there was not without some pain and freaking myself out a bit). Anyway Japan was as fascinating as it gets and I’d love to go back some day with Don.
Sadly no morre insta posts for a while as I forgot to get a VPN for my phone so can’t access it in China 😦
Alison

So great to hear from you, and also happy to hear you’re able to keep your pace while feeling fit. But missing Don … there’s no way to make that better! Hope he’s doing well in Van. You can probably buy a cheap SIM card in China for your phone. Use it for data and to access Instagram. Keep your Canada SIM card in a safe place and pop it back in when you’re on your way home? Just a thought. Be well and walk on! xo, K&J

All my photos are on my camera. After editing I email I send to myself and then open the email on the phone. From there I can share them on insta. Unfortunately gmail is blocked in China so I can’t open email on my phone and afaik you can only post to insta from a phone. I can access insta. I just can’t get my photos onto it. I tried opening an outlook account but it won’t let you share with insta the way gmail will. Currently in the process of trying Yahoo. Dontcha just love technology lol.

Lovely to hear of your foray into Japan, Alison. Japan will always have a special place in my heart because in the fourth grade we had to do a research report, and I chose Japan. We were supposed to practice our newly won skills of paraphrasing, quoting, and summarizing–each when appropriate. I type-copied pretty much the entire Encyclopedia Britannica article on Japan. 🙂 I turned in a 30 page report and the teacher was like, uhm… well, you’ve got the quotation part down. Haha!

I really love the Japanese author Haruki Murakami, too.

Glad you are enjoying such a nice visit and feeling so held by the wonder of place and being. And I love the guys in sunglasses in the midst of the traditional rituals you attended. The mix of modern and ancient seems just right in your photos. It is inviting.

Thanks Michael. You turned in a 30 page report in the fourth grade! OMG! Even if you “got the quotation part down” you’re obviously a born writer.
I enjoyed my visit to Japan very much. I’m in China now. Interesting that you noticed the guy in sunglasses. Very few people in Japan wear them, and the guide who I had for the first day there said that westerners have weak eyes – that’s how the Japanese interpret westerners addiction to sunglasses. But yes, the mixture of modern and ancient is everywhere, as I’m discovering it is also here in China.
Alison

I would respectfully disagree that Japanese women are not less repressed than women elsewhere in the west, especially given that they do have choices. They are allowed to work, as you say, and there are some very accomplished professional Japanese women. But SFAIK, many Japanese women do choose to remain housewives. Of course this may have well changed in recent decades – I was in Japan in the 80s. But, I would not be surprised if it is changing slowly.

My understanding is/was that Japanese women play their part in collectivist society. The western feminism of the 70s never did take in Japan, just as the more recent ‘me too’ movement never took (pointed out by a response to this or another post).

When I lived in Japan, it looked to me that Japanese housewives were by and large a contented lot. They had their kids, and their shopping, and their housework, and to spice things up, a English lesson with a white man over lunch!

I put this down to the collectivist mentality. Also, I don’t know that ‘repressed’ is the right word. I don’t think that Japanese women on the whole are repressing anything. Rather, they are making choices that they think work for them.

Somewhere along the line with all the double negatives I lost the plot. I think Jean suggested that Chinese women have more freedom that Japanese, and I with my very limited knowledge felt that that was not necessarily true. I don’t think I said they were less repressed than women in the west. I don’t know if they are or not, but I wouldn’t think so.
Alison

Alison, with respect to economic freedom, Japanese women traditionally controlled the household finances – their husband’s paychecks went to them, they did the banking, paid the bills, and did the shopping. Some Japanese used to say that this meant that the women “controlled the purse strings of society”, but this wasn’t really true IMO as they for the most part were not the ones making decisions about how to spend the public purse or signing the paychecks.

Even though, it supported the often-heard view that “the Japanese women are ruling society from underground” – which I didn’t think to be true. It’s the men who are ruling from overground, and they still have money to go on sex tours of Thailand (maybe that’s the company’s dime). Saying that the women are doing it from underground in my mind reflects the notion of women as manipulative and scheming.

I personally think that Japanese women are more ‘repressed’ than women in the west, but ‘repressed’ would not be the word I choose. Rather, I would say restricted. To me this is evident in how so many of them cover their faces when they laugh and how they try to make themselves physically small in terms of movement and body postures (I use present tense here because I assume the same remains true today).

To a large degree, they accept the restrictions, as opposed to having them enforced on them. But collectivist societies do enforce behaviors more rigidly than individualist societies IMO (not to say that the latter don’t enforce behaviors). As a result they are slow to change, and when they do change, it is with collectivist passion and force.

I think the Japanese women, like the Japanese men, value social harmony above everything else, including equality and empowerment, and feel that their gender role supports social harmony. A big part of this is that the strongest bond in Japan is between mother and child – parents sleep with their children when they are young.

Another part of this, IMO, is that I think Japanese women don’t really like or trust men much. They want the men out of the house earning money, and there is a Japanese term for retired man that translates to “Giant Garbage”. I remember a Japanese housewife telling me that she felt sorry for American women because they had to make dinner for their husbands every night.

They sure do seem to like white men, however (used to line up to meet men enlisted at an American navy base).

If you want an interesting read about Japan, I read Takeo Doi’s book “The Anatomy of Dependence”.

Thanks so much Dani. Japan is a truly extraordinary country. I could go back to explore more. I loved it there. China was such a contrast afterwards. And equally amazing. Hopefully there will be more photos that pull you in now that I’m getting back to posting.
Alison xo

Oh I love this way of putting it. I said more than once while I was there that Japan felt foreign in a way that no other country ever had. I was fascinated by it but I couldn’t get a handle on it.
Alison

Sorry I’m so late to read this! You’ve captured perfectly my observations of my life here over the past year and a half. It’s funny that you mention the bowing and manners; it was the one habit I did unconsciously when I visited the states last autumn!

Like you, I’ve passed over Japan for years, thinking it was too modern and not exotic enough. I’ve developed a keen interest to visit lately, partly because I have passed through the airport so many times.

Your photos and stories are showing the colorful side. I think of it as a country of conformity, but seeing the people dressed up in public proves there is still plenty of individualism.

I was so ignorant about Japan, and so delighted to be proven wrong about my theory that the culture had been subsumed by modernism. There is plenty of individualism, plenty of culture that’s uniquely Japanese, plenty of creativity. It’s a fascinating country and I’d love to go back and explore more.
Alison