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What is the is the best material for blanking windows out on an mci 8? I found this site where they used fiberglass. http://www.gypsyjournal.net/bus_project.htm I have seen aluminum used that looks nice but it seems that would be expensive. There was a bus on ebay a some time ago that had regular steel sheeting but I dont know what gauge steel. Any advice would be helpful.

I've read about using the aluminum...takes a bit of planning from what I've read. I'm going to use the fiberglass...less worries about expansion and contraction...and quicker I'd guess. Since some of my cabinetry and the shower were already in the bus it's going to be quite a chore for me. Won't be able to finish much on the inside without tearing all that stuff out. UGH!

Fortunately the windows will come off from the outside. A project for next year I think 'cause we want to winter in FL in the bus.Let us know how it all comes out.

Bob

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I have a transit (with the top hinged frames for emergency escape). Took out the window, cut two sheets of 3/4" plywood to the inside shape and glued them together, screwed them to the window flange, contact glued and riveted aluminum sheet to the outside (.060" if I remember right) and then screwed the 1x2 fir strips to the inside for my wall covering anchor and to have a thicker wall for insulation. After 10 years, is still holding with no problems-so it seems to be working fine. Not necessarily the correct way or the way you should do it, just my way. Good Luck, TomC

Disclaimer: Don't know what i'm doing, but I'm having a good time doing it!

Just blanked out 7 of our windows. We wanted to keep the two in the middle for the bunk room, 3 up front, and two in the back.I used .090 5052 aluminum that was 34" x 59". I did one window at a time from the back to the front. I asked several questions on the various boards, read all the archives, and asked many people who had no idea what I was even doing, farting around with a bus. I used 3/16 monobolts at 6" centers with Sikaflex 252. i was doing double duty with the sikaflex and rivets, but I like to be extra sure.The prep took longer than the job did but it turned out o.k.If you call International bus parts and ask for rich, he has the stuff.

We purchased aluminum "sign metal", which is painted white on both sides. . . we're thinking it was .070-.080, but we can't remember for sure . We had it cut to the correct size, and since our MCI-9 had trim pieces between each window, we were able to do ours in sections, one window at a time.

We used "Closed end" rivets. . .which are good for structural strength, we used 1/4" for the verticle posts, so you have to have a heavier duty pop rivet gun. These type of rivets are more waterproof because the center doesn't pop out. Ours were aluminum. We glued a strip of rubber shower pan liner on each post, so that the metal was against the rubber instead of metal against metal. Then, we drilled out all the rivets along the top above the window, put a piece of ducttape on the back of the sheet aluminum along the top (again to keep metal from touching metal), and slid it up under the lip from the roof metal. I also made sure I used a very good caulk called, "Through the roof", which is about $4.50 a tube, but really good. It's really sticky, and takes a while to set up, but it sure is good stuff. I put a bead of it on top of the rubber strip on the verticle post, so it also helped seal the holes where the rivets when through.

One thing we did that really made a difference, in our opinion was that we mounted the metal during hot weather, but then also ran a kerosene bullet heater on the inside of the bus, aimed at each panel, as we mounted the sheets. We kept the metal hot enough that you really didn't want to leave your hand on it for very long. This way, we got a really smooth look. Talk about hot. . it was about 95 degrees outside and I swear, in there where I was perched, it was probably 140 degrees! And then, add in the stupid black sticky stuff that I managed to get smeared all over me. . . it was a real hoot! ha ha However, no matter what the temperature is outside, the metal is straight and smooth! YeeHaw!

One of the other things to do is, he cut all the extra posts (two per window) and drilled all the holes for the rivets all the way through the post on his drill press. That way, after they were welded in place, I drilled from the inside out, to make a corresponding hole in the metal, then he stuck in the pop rivet and tightened it. I believe our rivets were like 3" apart or so. By measuring and drilling all of the posts identical, the rivets are in a nice neat line.

I can send you a few pics if you'd like. Christy

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