I started by installing the kinetik batter, 0 gauge battery ground and engine to chassis ground, alternator to fuse box and fusebox to battery. I elected NOT to install a lead directly from the alternator to the battery, so I guess you couldnt call this the "Big 3"...but at max volume, AC running, dome light on etc.. my headlights do not flutter ofcourse it helps that I have the 130 amp alternator compliments of the tow package...

Once my fab work was done, amp rack prewired, everything on hand...I began with the doors.

I hid the GPS antenna behind the drivers side A-pillar with very little effort...my signal is perfect.

I put the microphone here...note the 1 scratch I have yet to fix...which I actually did later when removing/reinstalling the mic after I had to perform the compass/temp mod repair due to a poorly soldered transistor

The sub bass control went here using super duper Home Depot velcro...I was pleasantly surprised how secure it is...

like most, I didnt like the idea of loosing the plastic seat backs or not being able to properly deaden the rear wall in order to allow adequate space for my sub enclosure...so after a a few days of experimentation I was able to move the back rests forward 3/4" using spacers and longer bolts, and the seat bottoms forward about 1/2".

I then removed and extended the rear seat "latch" catches using 5/16" round bar and tig welding...although those without a welder will be happy to know the rear seat backs will still latch on the OEM brackets after being moved...but I wanted a full 3/4" of additional room top and bottom...

I previously posted more info on this here on another thread...I will post that link later for those who may want to consider this. It was the best decision I made, as I was able to deadend the hell out of everything, keep my plastic seat-backs, and not rub my sub

I also notched the center seat bracket while I had everything apart...

Here is my amp rack...I HATE looking at wiring..so I spent what felt like ten years measuring, drilling, and installing Stinger wire grommets...got these from Bagboy on ebay btw..

Here is pic of the carpet, under-seat amps, and kicks installed... I may eventually fabricate my own kicks, but for now just wanted to get this damn thing in...so I made a mdf baffle which mounts to the inside of the Q-logic kicks...installed the 3" mids...dissassembled the DLS grills, and installed grill cloth between the grill and the plastic frame, so that you cant tell theres only a 3" installed...Looks 10000% better than installing the 3"DLS grills on the 6.5" Q-logic kick! they turned out nice I think..and my imaging is freaking incredible... certain songs sound like their coming from my windshield!

Some points worth mentioning... Installing an amp under the drivers seat is pretty cut and dry...installing under the passenger seat was a PITA!!!!!

Both seats will require you to remove your floor vents to the back seat passengers...I live in South Florida, seldom get cold, or have rear passengers...so screw em! They unsnap very easily.

You will find metal protective channeling which protects the high voltage wiring for the power inverter...wiring goes through the floor than to the rear of the bed to the outlet. I chose to remove the bulk of this big metal channel, and rerouted the electrical in conduit out of the way. I then installed 20 gauge steel over the indentation to give me a clean solid surface to secure my amp.

The passenger seat also has a support bar or brace which hangs down and would allow the passenger seat to slide (it hit the amp).

I disassembled the seat, removed the bar using a torx socket, ground the tabs, clocked it 80 degrees, and reinstalled it.

i highly recommend anyone not VERY familiar with these trucks purchase the 4 volume Tacoma manuals as I did...they saved my ass...and more importantly my truck!....lol...

Here is the finished product...

I am very happy with the results.. fully active system is not the easiest to tune...i ran it at low volume for about a week while driving before really "getting on it"... Recently completed "acoustically phasing" each set of speakers...and what a difference.

my next project will be to relocate the hazard switch/clock assembly to that open dash area JUST below the temp controls, and installing my Audio Control three.1 in its place. Will require some modification...and fabrication of special HU brackets...but I tore everything apart about a year ago (and posted my findings on here or TN)...It can be done..and will give me the added control I desire for my 3-way front stage...

Thanks to Rick at Ramaat, and Marv for all their help. I could not imagine completing this project without their advice.