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onsen-hopping.Kurokawa Onsen

One of the great things about Kurokawa Onsen is that even on a rainy day you can go ahead and enjoy a spot of onsen-hopping in the outdoor baths,as most of them are provided with a roofed section to offer protection against the rain. Yumerindo ( 夢龍胆 number 9 on the English onsen-hopping map) was no exception and proved an ideal choice for a mid-morning dip in the rain.

Entrance to Yumerindo

The staff were very attentive and helpful from the moment my friend and I stepped through the door,even though we were only there for an onsen-hop . A receptionist (from Taiwan) spoke English,Chinese and Japanese and other staff seemed to follow our English quite well. It`s a large inn,elevators are available and we made our way down from reception to the outdoor baths without getting too lost. Once again,being mid-morning, we had the spacious bath and changing rooms to ourselves.

Spacious outdoor bathing and roofed area

Yumerindo also boasts a large mixed bath (混浴風呂 or konyoku buro）for as many as 30 bathers…but we didnt try it out,as it would have meant getting dressed again and walking through to a different changing room. Maybe next time,if we remember to take out yukata with us!

The sign says `Men` but this passageway also leads to the mixed bath

We lingered for a while in the lobby,which had some great views all around and would be a very pleasant place for a coffee or refreshments after your bath.

I`ve been saving a visit to Yamanoyado Shinmeikan (山の宿 新明館) until I could go with a friend as,to be quite honest,I`m not really a fan of caves. I`ll admit that it was a unique bathing experience however,and I`m glad I plucked up the courage to try at least this once. If dark,steamy cave baths are your thing then you`ll be sure to enjoy the experience too,although it could be a little crowded at certain times of day and the changing `rooms` are very,very basic.

Sneaky peek into the women`s outdoor bath (thanks to Helen for this shot)

You can`t miss the large and popular Shinmeikan, located alongside the river right in the middle of Kurokawa and reached by a picturesque footbridge.

Footbridge leading directly to Shinmeikan Reception

The receptionist explained that the outdoor baths could be reached by following a path running alongside the main Inn building and in the following order: Women`s,Men`s and then Mixed at the far end. SEE NOTE

Get that? I hope so….could be embarrassing for someone otherwise!

Except that the Men`s bath is actually very clearly signposted in English as….a MIXED bath.

This is NOT the mixed bath,it`s the MEN`S bath. (Photo by Helen)

…and the Mixed bath is through this mossy gate at the end of the path. If you plan on hopping from one to the other you will perhaps need a yukata,as the path is in full view of all the tourists wandering along the street on the other riverbank.

Mossy gateway to the outdoor bath (Photo by Helen)

Obviously at some point the baths have been swapped over,so that Men and Women can enjoy separate cave bathing (which of course is the main attraction of bathing here) and then a mixed,more traditional outdoor bath if they so wish. Just that the message to take off the sign hasn`t quite got through to the handyman yet.

The rocky cave pools are quite shallow and a comfortable temperature,slightly cooler at one end. No shampoo or soap is provided,lockers are outside the changing room and toilets…..are back at reception. Useful to note that although most women enter this way (LEFT),to a very cramped changing area there is also a second entrance (RIGHT) with slightly more space for changing.

Main entrance to Women`s bath

A second entrance to the right,also for the Women`s bath.

NOTE (November 23) A different member of staff at Shinmeikan has since informed me that in fact the order of the baths is Women`s,Mixed,Mixed. So in fact there is no outdoor bath for men only and the sign is correct!

In summary…..cave bathing

Would I visit again? Maybe,if I wanted to show a visitor something unique

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Resident in Kyushu for over 20 years and fortunate to be living in this beautiful corner of Aso close to a number of onsens including Kurokawa, which I love to visit with friends or my guests from overseas. Keeping this semi-official blog in English for the Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Association now gives me the perfect excuse...I just HAVE to try all the (public outdoor) baths I possibly can!