Formica counter top removal - is it possible? Since we don't seem to be moving to Virginia any time soon (or at all), I have to start thinking about some updates. The kitchen counter top Formica is starting to look dated and tired. Can this be removed successfully with a bit of heat or do I just bite the proverbial bullet and go buy some new 3/4" plywood or possibly a set of post formed counter top pieces to bolt together like I did for the laundry room? Of course, if I really wanted to go fancy, granite - but too expensive for my budget. I really want to keep my current oak counter top edging, but it may not be possible.

You can try to "pop" it loose, Dave; a little heat to get an edge or a corner up a bit and a stout scraper blade might do, but the chances are slim. If the substrate is plywood, it might be less prone to tear-out, but any composite like MDF or particle board will most likely just tear loose with the Formica and glue and leave craters all over. We tried it in one kitchen, and finally I just took my skill saw and trimmed the oak edge off and replaced the substrate; cleaned up the oak on the router table and glued it back on after the new Formica was down. I fussed and cussed that job, but it looked good when it was finished.

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Rrumbler - Broken and grouchy, but not dead - yet.
Bangin' and twistin' on stuff for some sixty years or so.

Kinda thought it was a losing cause - and if I recall correctly. it's on MDF. Oh well, not a big deal. The oak trim is nailed and glued on, but it should "pop" right off. Probably could just do a good rough up of the old with my belt sander and put fresh laminate right over the top (yep, I'm lazy/cheap). As far as routers, I have a nice mid size Craftsman and a big 3 Hp Porter Cable plunge

When I took ours apart, I wanted to avoid boogering the oak molding so I clamped down a straight edge saw guide to give me 1/16 to 3/32 extra and cut through nails and all with a "demo" blade. Then I knocked the nails through from the back (couldn't find 'em from the front, too good a job of patching). I set the fence on my router table like a jointer, to take off just the glue and give a clean surface, used a 2" spiral straight cut bit and jointed the back face. It all went back together fine, didn't even have to re-do any miters.

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Rrumbler - Broken and grouchy, but not dead - yet.
Bangin' and twistin' on stuff for some sixty years or so.

Not really hard to do,, you need a good heatgun, a 6" scraper or drywall knife, and a pair of plyers.. start in a corner , and apply a little heat to the surface , just enough to warm the glue , then slip the knife under the corner, and pull up and keep applying heat where it is stuck down,, the glue looses its grip and the laminate will come off,, just a steady pull and heat, EDIT I would remove the oak trim first tho,,,

according to whether the last installer rolled the glue on or it was sprayed, will determine if you need to get the residue off,, that usually means a belt sander and lots of belts,

then installing the new laminate is a whole different story,, you probably already know that,,

Like you said ,, rough up the old surface ( GOOD )and reapply the new laminate over that

I think I would just buy new tops and reinstall your trim,, easy to say,,