I have a Miracle 20 I restored this past August. Refinished the hulls, rudders and boards, all new rigging, sheets, tramp, most hardware is new and even manufactured aerospace tiller arms and crossbar. So far all is working well but I do need advice on the following:

1) Need new sails: recommendations? I'm a recreational sailor and still learning - but we have a weekly race all season as well. No spin on this boat [i](yet) and the jib in non-furling. Should I go spin also?

2) Need a new front crossbeam (bar) as mine is dented on top and cracked below the mast. I figure I will replace all of the associated hardware as well. Any ideas here - suggestions as I move forward?

3) After refinished the boat - I caulked around every possible seam to prevent any significant water getting into the hulls. Starboard is perfect, Port is allowing some water in (maybe a gallon or two)...I don't know where its coming from and haven't perfomed any leak tests yet. There are no holes from the hull(s) re-do or in the daggerboard wells either - maybe where the front or rear crossbars bolt in?

Buy stock sails. The boat was designed to be balenced using these. Other sails will over power the rudders.

Order a crossbar from your local dealer.

The leak is probably coming from the bow tang. Spread a thin film of silicone seal or 3M 5200 around the tang (where the bridle wire attaches to the hull). The small area around this fitting will allow an amazing amount of water into the hull on a breezy day if not sealed.

The second area prone to leaking is inside the back edge of the daggerboard trunk where the trunk hits the hull. The trailing edge of the board saws this area open over time. A couple of layer of fiberglass here will do the trick.

I did caulk the tangs when I re-did the hulls and the daggerboard "trunks" don't appear to have any cracks or missing glass/gelcoat at all. While on the subject of the tangs, I did want to replace them becuase I saw rust stains on the hulls and assumed corrosion inside but I couldn't get them off - I tried to uncrew one but couldn't do so and didnt want to risk creating a problem - how do you service these? Is there a plate inside the hulls and would I have to cut a hole for a port?

I realize I'm probably shooting for perfection here but this is my first sailboat and I want to do it right. Send me your email address and I will send you a few pics of the boat if you like.

The other leak that is common is the hatch covers. The screws leak, the seals leak, the bezzels crack and leak... ...check these out carefully. Use scuba diving silicone grease on these to seal better, but then you have to be really careful with sand...

The amount of water you posted about suggest either daggerboard or bow tang. Gudgeon screws can leak too, but not a gallon or two unless they are really loose. You might take on more water from unusual places if you capsize and stay that way for a while. It would also explain the water in one hull and not the other.

It must be the bow tang area as I need to replace the front crossbeam/striker and all (crossbeam has stress cracks around and under mast area)associated components. The dolphin striker is a bit loose. This will be the early spring project to replace everything.

The hatches are clean and I caulked around them and the rivets as well. I also do regularly apply silicone to the threads too. I wa going to replace the hatches with new ones - the cam lock type (non-threaded ones) but I want sure what type makes sense here.

Thanks again for the help - It is really appreciated! Happy new year to you!

The only way to know for sure where the hull is leaking is to do a bubble/pressure test. Pressurize the hulls and then soap the hulls and inspect for bubbles. Bubbles = leaks.

As far as the front crossbar is concerned, there's no reason to replace the hardware unless it shows obvious signs of corrosion or damage, or if its seized. Otherwise, just replace the aluminum extrusion and re-install the old hardware.

Don't forget, the diameter of the dolphin striker increased so you may need a new striker and mast bearing ball. You will also need a new compression sleeve as this will probably be corroded to the striker post, nuts, washers...

I would give you the date this happened and size so you will know, but that will have to come from some factory guy or Matt B as he knows everything.

Keep in mind that the Hobie 20 was designed as a one-design class racer. The idea is that all the boats are similarly equipped and the ability of the crew determines the outcome of class events. Even if you don't think you are interested in class racing at this point, keep your options open by buying only class legal equipment, such as Hobie produced (or produced by their authorized subcontractor) sails and trampolines. As far as resale is concerned, a boat that is compliant with class rules will appeal to more potential buyers, and thus demand a higher price, than a non-compliant boat. Class rules are posted on the Hobie Class Association web site.

I refurbished a 1997 H20 in 2008 and have had a blast with it. I bought a new factory trampoline and in 2010, I bought a new set of Hobie sails. I can't say enough good things about them. Some aftermarket vendors will offer sails and trampolines at lower prices, but based on what I've seen, especially with trampolines, you'll get what you pay for. Here's a photo of my boat with new Hobie sails (custom order sail color and I kept the original sail number). Any Hobie dealer can order new sails for you.

Let us know where you are located and maybe we can hook you up with some local H20 sailors in your area. You'll learn a ton by having a crafty old veteran look over your boat.

I appreciate the "class legal" aspects and thus far nothing has been "modified" which would enhance performance in any way. I live on the east end of Long Island and there are simply no "class races" that I am aware of nor any other 20's out here. I do expect to order original Hobie sails as I am sure they are well-made and reasonably priced.

As far as dolphin striker diameter - that's news to me and I would normally rely upon the series of Hobie dealers I buy from for this guidance, but I am sure nothing beats the field experience you all have. I will look into it when I am ready to place the order.

Will hobie sell the from cross beam fully assembled or do I have to order the parts individually and build it myself? Thank you for all of your support. It's amazing to see this level of service and product committement so long after the end of production.

Will hobie sell the from cross beam fully assembled or do I have to order the parts individually and build it myself? Thank you for all of your support. It's amazing to see this level of service and product committement so long after the end of production.

We have x1 complete front beam in stock - part # 40131001 (pricey though @ $1100 msrp) Most folks prefer to 'piece' the parts together because normally you can re-use the components which are still in good shape and it saves you money. But if you need a 'complete' assembly, we do have one left - to order call your nearest dealer toll free 1800Hobie49