Nobody wants to listen to a server’s spiel about a restaurant’s “farm-to-table concept” only to be served asparagus in February. Nobody really needs to know the provenance of each of a salad’s microgreens. And you know what? Nobody can tell the difference between Growing Home lettuce and Growing Power lettuce. But just because the “farm-to-table” movement has been co-opted, distorted and overwrought doesn’t mean there aren’t restaurants out there more committed to its principles than ever. Chief among them is Art Jackson and Chelsea Kalberloh Jackson’s understated Bridgeport restaurant, where seasonal produce comes direct from Pleasant Farms, a network of small urban farms in and near Chicago managed by Kalberloh Jackson’s brother, Morgan Kalberloh. Not that anyone taking your order at Pleasant House has ever felt the need to mention it. 964 W 31st St (773-523-7437).

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