To make the breadcrumbs, tear up a day-old baguette or some crusty country bread and pulse it in a food processor until the crumbs are coarse. If you end up with more than you need, freeze the surplus in an airtight container.

The truth is, you can use any supermarket bone-in ham for this recipe, or buy a half ham and cut the recipe accordingly. But considering the holiday occasion, it's worthwhile to get the best cured, smoked, bone-in ham you can find. Special-order one from your butcher or from dartagnan.com (we love the applewood-smoked version).