That is so dependant upon "Many Variables!!--If you were shaped like a bullet`weighed no more than 90Lbs & were laying under the paint, with quality high octane rated fuel, without brakes binding , & no accessories like Panniers & the Engine had at least 16,000K'ms Legit on the clock ,& at sea level ( Not High Altitude & on a "moist day" without Pillion Passenger ,& with Engine having Air Cleaners near new,& providing each Cylinder registered similar Compression Pressure , Perhaps 15 Psi & The Engine had correct Viscosity oil , & Drive train was not "MALADJUSTED " this macine , with small tailwind could be expected to top the Ton!---Now, IF YOU REALLY wanted to know just how good KAWASAKI'S earlier prducts were . locate >1974 S3 --2Cycle Triple Fire Breather & Could out accellerate & out run HONDA K1 750/4 --Reason>?"Power To Weight Ratio"--I hope that has been useful!--Whilst I 'm on that aspect, the Triple sounded to be screaming ( As if Ultra High RPM, Not so, it being Clarke cycle ( 2 Stroke , has "power pulse each time piston climbs to Top Dead Centre & the Four Strokes , Rev so much harder, yet do not quite sound so !!---The Mighty Vincent V Twin was an exception though >Guaranteed each Macine would reach 120 MPH 998 CC British, with very short pushrods, & alongside one at The Ton, years pasyt I noted His Tacho was only showing 4,200RPM!--O K -Cheers, Stay Upright", Des

that box is called the air box, its where you engine breathes in its air. you say its leaking oil? these boxes are normally a bit oily but only really surface oil. If you can actually see liquid oil you have a problem with your petrol shut off. When the bike isnt running petrol will leak into the engine through the piston. When you start the bike all the petrol mixed with the engine oil will be pumped back into the air box. also check the level of the engine oil, if too much has been put in there then that can also be pumped back into the air box. If the petrol and oil has been mixing you must change the oil as petrol thins the oil and your bike could catch fire, the engine wear will be really bad.

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.Won Start Just Turns Over And Backfires Fixedhttp://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-streetbikes-sportbikes/31762-need-help-bike-wont-cranks-backfires.htmlKawasaki zzr 400 manual pdfOEM Parts for Kawasakihttp://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/58452-ZZR-400-No-spark-!!!!!How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycleKawasaki ZXR400 Service Manual SupplementOEM Parts for Kawasakihttp://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

Stock plug is NGK CR9E, but Denso Irridium IU27 is best. Cost more but better economy and starting.
Any manufacturer will have the equivalent NGK plug for your bike on their chart, with two or three types for your preferred riding style.
Cheers.