Nexo was very good, but somehow never quite caught on. Sadly, intimate unpretentious bistrots have a hard time capturing the public’s attention in tony Polanco where bigger seems to imply better. Its kitchen went dark a few months ago but it is not really gone. Margaret Chic Kitchen has taken its place.

While co-chef Diego Niño has moved on to greener European pastures, César Vázquez has remained as chef de cuisine and collaborated with Abel Hernandez of Eloise/Loretta fame to refurbish the restaurant’s concept.

Margaret’s chic interior (photo courtesy Time Out Mexico)

Margaret features simple Franco-American cooking that is guaranteed to please those with prentention-phobia. What’s not to like about an oxtail and Angus meatball in a rich, dark stock with foie gras, set over chewy udon noodles - a play on everyone’s favorite comfort food, spaghetti and meatballs. Or well-balanced oysters Rockefeller with a side of upmarket hash browns. There’s even a contender for that fashionable comfort food from north of the border, mac & cheese.

The space has been elegantly simplified by ingenious interior designer Alexandra Medina and the wine list re-vamped.

Prices are reasonable for Polanco, about $500 per person with a glass of wine.

Margaret is the latest in the welcome trend towards more intimate, back-to-basics establishments (see post on Cercano Comedor at which chef Vázquez also has a hand) to have opened in our city recently. It is a great spot for those who want to avoid the usual Polanco glitz and focus on honest, well prepared food.