Bring a Loupe A Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 AOPA, A De Bethune DB28 Titanium, And A Tudor Submariner Ref. 7928

This week’s roundup is a bit of a longer read than usual, but fear not, we’ve got the goods as always. All bases are covered, with exotic independent creations like a titanium DB28 from De Bethune, obscure watches like an early automatic from a brand you've almost certainly never heard of, a range of compelling pieces from the Wilsdorf-founded brands, and the coolest damn chronograph you've seen in a while all making appearances. We won’t waste time – let’s get into this week’s supersized Bring A Loupe.

De Bethune DB28 Titanium

You really know the Daytona market has reached new heights when works of art from independents can be seen as relatively inexpensive alternatives to those classic sports watches. In case you need some proof to back that statement up, we've got this absolutely stunning DeBethune DB28 in titanium, featuring a silicon balance wheel, patented shock absorber, and 3-D spherical moonphase complication.

The DB28 is admittedly one of those watches I long overlooked, up until I was lucky enough to see a few in the metal in quick succession this past summer. While clearly on the more otherworldly end of the design spectrum, De Bethune has perfected their aesthetic language, which is a refreshing, sterile hybrid of contemporary and traditional elements. The manually wound caliber DB2115 is quite a sight too, and offers an impressive six days of power reserve on a full wind.

Also worth noting is the fact that this piece is cased in 42.6mm of polished titanium, which isn’t seen all that often in watchmaking. The reason for this is that polishing titanium is an objectively more difficult and temperamental task than doing the same to stainless steel or other conventional alloys – it can become flammable and dangerous if the polishing isn't done with great care. This further speaks to De Bethune’s mastery in the field of finishing, but you didn’t need me to tell you that — just look at it! As the seller states, “this is the watch the T1000 Terminator would wear.”

I love the concept of a purpose-built watch, and find there to be few things more fascinating in the world of horology as a whole. The vast array of such timepieces is a direct reflection of the universal appeal of the wristwatch, and the endless nature of both functional and aesthetic possibilities within the craft. Clean examples of early professional dive watches and racing chronographs are attractive, but this is Bring A Loupe, and we intend to highlight nothing short of the best. With this in mind, direct your attention towards this early doctor’s chronograph from Vacheron Constantin that dates back to the 1930s.

Let’s break down a few reasons why this watch is so special. First off, it’s a 1930s pulsation-dial, monopusher chronograph in 18k yellow gold from Vacheron Constantin, on a matching bracelet too. Need I say more? Important collectors are surely drooling as it stands, but if not, the fact that this presumably would have been a specially ordered piece ought to get you there. Should you happen to be a medical professional with an affinity with vintage watches, or just simply in the market for something worthy of grail status, this is definitely worth checking out.

What’s more, is the original box is included, which is certainly an appreciated extra.

While we could wax poetic all day about Rolex’s countless notable achievements, associations, and iconic models, just consider this – Rolex pioneered the self-changing date complication, and arguably changed the future of watch design, with the release of the Datejust. This is nnothing to scoff at, regardless of your take on the watchmaking behemoth.

What we’ve got here is a simple Datejust, and a rather sharp one at that, which left the factory in 1984. I find vintage Datejusts to still be largely undervalued watches in general, but this is no ordinary spec example, and that’s evident in the pricing. This supremely clean ref. 16018 has thick lugs, along with a perfect and uncommon stark white dial, which looks terrific against the 36mm case made of warm 18k yellow gold. It’s also currently fitted with a non-cyclops sapphire crystal, which many will like, as it shows off the dial more, and can also make the watch feel ever so slightly larger on the wrist. Steel and two-tone Datejusts of this era came fitted with acrylic crystals, but the upgrade to sapphire came early for those who sprung for the gold-cased variants.

Overall, it’s a genuinely clean watch, that one could definitely have some fun dressing up with a number of strap combinations. There are few more versatile watches than those with 36mm Oyster cases, and this just so happens to be one of the nicest I’ve seen in a while.

Next up we’ve got a watch that slightly resembles a far more costly, complicated chronograph from a certain watchmaker that brands their dials with coronets. Unlike a true Killy, this vintage chronograph signed by the American watch retailer Tourneau does feature a moonphase display, made possible by the Valjoux Cal. 88 movement found inside, though there’s definitely a strong Oyster vibe to the case.

Produced in 1956, this 36mm watch is being offered on a vintage beads of rice bracelet in matching stainless steel, which complements the watch greatly. All in all, it’s a prime example of 1950s sports chronograph production, and the added functionality that comes with the four additional complications is a nice touch.

The only downside to really be considered is the presence of some discoloration surrounding the luminous plots on the white dial. Other than that, this is one of the better triple date moonphase chronographs in stainless steel to have surfaced in a while, and it's an honest looking piece.

After having once worked with a colleague who wore a perfect example of the ref. 7016/0 daily – you know who you are – my research into the history of the Tudor Submariner, and appreciation for the numerous variants and references which make it uniquely fascinating, have only intensified. Though such watches were ultimately manufactured as more accessible alternatives to Rolex offerings, they’re an equally important facet of the Wilsdorf empire’s history, and undeniably epic on the wrist, as one would expect.

The lineage of first generation Tudor Submariners begins with the ref. 7922 that started it all in 1954, followed by the manually wound ref. 7923, and then finally the slightly more waterproof, and Big Crown–equipped ref. 7924 of 1958. After these three references, the Submariner matured into its best-known form, with crown guards and a sharp-toothed bezel. These aforementioned changes came one year later, with the introduction of the Ref. 7928.

An extremely early example of this reference dating back roughly to 1961/1962 just popped up on eBay, and it’s pretty awesome. Fitted inside the thick looking, PCG Oyster case, we’ve got a gilt chapter ring dial, that also features an exclamation point down by “SWISS” signature at the six o’clock marker. This is a crazy Sub by all definitions of the term, which is why it’s honestly funny to see it pop up on eBay. We’ll be watching to see where this one ends up.

Every now and then it’s fun to take a little walk off the beaten path, into the territory of the obscure and unusual. While not an incredibly well known piece from any sort of noteworthy brand, here’s something that’s just straight up cool which you likely haven’t seen before.

The mechanism's patent.

This is a “Rolls” which is believed to date back to the 1930s, and while the Art Deco appearance is pleasing, the true appeal here is what can be found inside the case. Upon first seeing the movement, and that it was described as an early automatic caliber, I was left perplexed not understanding how the mechanism worked, but with a little research its secrets were revealed.

The patent on the caliber dates back to July 24, 1930, and was filed by a Parisian watchmaker by the name of Léon Hatot. Hatot was born on April 22, 1883 in Chatillon-sur-Seine, and was involved in the watchmaking industry from the tender age of 12 years old. His automatic movement design essentially consisted of a rail upon which the movement physically moved back and forth, using a system of ball bearings. This concept is best understood via analyzing the mechanism, so be sure to review the photos.

Hatot’s innovative caliber is said to have caught the attention of Frederic-Émile Blancpain, who assisted with manufacturing timepieces equipped with the caliber under the brand name Rolls. A very cool watch, with an unconventional movement worth studying, to boot.

Henry’s Auktionshaus in Mutterstadt Germany has this piece in their upcoming sale with an estimate of €350-700, and a starting bid of €320. Click here to see the listing.

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Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 AOPA

If you follow Navitimer sales and are familiar with vintage Breitling as a whole, you’ll know that the price of a decent example of the ref. 806 has been increasing at a constant pace, indicative of both a strong and stable market. For a historically and aesthetically important chronograph, they still haven’t necessarily skyrocketed, and wear wonderfully on the wrist, which is why we couldn’t not include this particularly special example upon encountering it on eBay.

This happens to not only be a desirable AOPA variant of the famed Breitling reference, linking it to the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, but also one in extremely clean condition, as the pictures show. This is just about as perfect an example of the ref. 806 as you’re going to find, so I’d recommend stepping up to the plate if you’ve been on the hunt for a while.

It’s no secret that people love retailer signatures. An extra word or two on a metal disc equating to a several thousand dollar premium will never be rationalized in terms of pure logic, though if you’ve been bit by the watch bug, there’s a case to be made for the connection it may form between what’s on your wrist and a retailer of institutional importance. Tiffany is not the topic of discussion today, but another American luxury retailer situated further south – Linz.

The Texas-based retailer opened its doors 1877, and became an authorized Rolex dealer in 1945. In an edition of Texas Monthly magazine, Linz Brothers – as the business was known post-1907 – was even said to have sold more Rolexes than any other dealer in North America in 1950. Though a source for that claim was not provided, it’s an interesting notion to consider, and telling of how the market once looked geographically.

Just the other day, this affordable ref. 1002 with a Linz signature on its dial surfaced on eBay from a seller based out of Oklahoma. I personally wouldn’t be put off by the fact that the “N” in the Linz signature is right-facing, unlike the backwards printing that’s typically seen, in that even the most honest and confirmed legitimate Linz signatures have to be some of the most inconsistent and unsystematically applied retailer signatures out there. The signature appears to have evolved significantly over the period of its use, therefore the number of different Linz signature variants seen today. With that said, not all are kosher.