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Assembly (continued) Install the divider and back. Press the divider into place (above) and plane it flush after the glue has dried. The back consists of three shiplapped boards that are beveled to fit the grooves in the case sides and top. Slide them in from the bottom (right) and nail them to the shelves. end is which. Follow the stages shown in the photos. Use only a small amount of glue on the beginning of the dovetail slot and key. Too much will cause the joint to swell and bind. Check the case with a square as you assemble it. Add the molding. The “ears” that extend beyond the dovetailed case top provide a convenient clamping surface for the molding. A bead, cut with a scratch stock (above), is a nice transition for the banding. 3/4 in. 11 ⁄8 in. 1⁄8 1/2-in. radius in. 3⁄8 in. 3⁄16 in. Holly Finishing touches make the difference There are lots of ways to finish off the top of a wall cabinet. It needs something; otherwise, it looks too much like a box. I used a cove molding, with that little banding just below it. One advantage of this case construction is the extra pieces (I call them “ears”) that stick up beyond the sliding dovetail to give it strength. They are the perfect place to clamp those moldings. They were so short that I wasn’t worried about cross-grain movement. With a deeper cabinet, I might screw them on from the inside, running the back screws through slotted holes. Of course, the front molding can always be glued on with no issues. You can use any method you like for 1/4 in. 1 ⁄16 the door, drawer, and even the back of the cabinet. This approach to construction is very versatile, and works for cabinets of all sizes with all kinds of molding and decoration. That’s why I love it. • in. 1⁄8 in. 62 FINE WOOdWO rk IN g Ebony Garrett Hack is a contributing editor.