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Yes very easy, the drivers side can be abit tricky if I remember right getting It out? on a tdi, but basically two nuts top and bottom and jack it it up carefully,pull the old one fit the new one and lower back down tighten up, you could run it then relapsed and re tighten nuts to make sure they sit properly.

As above and I replaced mine (sensors on both for me) with the none sensor version of a B5, just need a resistor or cut the sensor block off the old one and plug back in to stop the fault being logged by VCDS when a scan is done.

I also reduced the length of the studs as they are very long....makes fitting even easier again.

As above and I replaced mine (sensors on both for me) with the none sensor version of a B5, just need a resistor or cut the sensor block off the old one and plug back in to stop the fault being logged by VCDS when a scan is done.

I also reduced the length of the studs as they are very long....makes fitting even easier again.

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Mike, where did you get the none sensor versions from? How much were they? Cheers.

Now, these are for the 2.4 litre petrol engine but at the low price I thought they'd be worth a punt. I also thought that as I have a Blacksmoke remap that they would better cope with the "extra power".

When coming to the fitting, I read the various guides and ended up putting the front on ramps then used a jack on the sump to lift the engine (use a block of wood to spread the load) once I'd removed the front snub mount and undone the engine mount securing nuts (TIP don't fully remove the nuts on both sides...slacken all the way off but only remove one side at a time so your engine remains roughly in the right place) . As you VERY SLOWLY jack the engine it has a tendency to tilt towards the drivers side thus making passenger one easier and the drivers that much trickier combined with the restricted access. In an attempt to overcome this problem, I lifted the engine too much and caught a coolant hose at the back of the engine...luckily it was only enough to 'break the seal' on the unions causing minor coolant loss and no damage. In the end, my solution to get the extra clearance for the drivers side was to use a breakers bar to lever the engine back over to the passenger side (a helper to do this would've been great but thankfully, I have long arms!). In hindsight, the suggestion of cutting the threads down would have made it all a lot simpler!

Obviously, old one on top.

I've been running the mounts for two months now and my engine no longer rocks about all over the place however, the car feels slightly rough when idling but I feel its a small price to pay (mounts are not matched to the engine yada, yada, yada). Unusually, my slipping clutch has progressively improved to the point where I can no longer make it slip??? If anyone can theorise as to why this could be the case, I'm all ears!

Now, these are for the 2.4 litre petrol engine but at the low price I thought they'd be worth a punt. I also thought that as I have a Blacksmoke remap that they would better cope with the "extra power".

When coming to the fitting, I read the various guides and ended up putting the front on ramps then used a jack on the sump to lift the engine (use a block of wood to spread the load) once I'd removed the front snub mount and undone the engine mount securing nuts (TIP don't fully remove the nuts on both sides...slacken all the way off but only remove one side at a time so your engine remains roughly in the right place) . As you VERY SLOWLY jack the engine it has a tendency to tilt towards the drivers side thus making passenger one easier and the drivers that much trickier combined with the restricted access. In an attempt to overcome this problem, I lifted the engine too much and caught a coolant hose at the back of the engine...luckily it was only enough to 'break the seal' on the unions causing minor coolant loss and no damage. In the end, my solution to get the extra clearance for the drivers side was to use a breakers bar to lever the engine back over to the passenger side (a helper to do this would've been great but thankfully, I have long arms!). In hindsight, the suggestion of cutting the threads down would have made it all a lot simpler!

I've been running the mounts for two months now and my engine no longer rocks about all over the place however, the car feels slightly rough when idling but I feel its a small price to pay (mounts are not matched to the engine yada, yada, yada). Unusually, my slipping clutch has progressively improved to the point where I can no longer make it slip??? If anyone can theorise as to why this could be the case, I'm all ears!

Click to expand...

I was thinking about trying to lever up the drivers side but couldn't see how there was any room to do it. How did you manage it? What was the condition of your old drivers side in comparison to your old passenger side? My passenger side was absolutely shot (pic below), but from what I could see of drivers side it looked relatively new, was clean and bright silver.

I was thinking about trying to lever up the drivers side but couldn't see how there was any room to do it. How did you manage it? What was the condition of your old drivers side in comparison to your old passenger side? My passenger side was absolutely shot (pic below), but from what I could see of drivers side it looked relatively new, was clean and bright silver.

Old passenger side:

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My drivers side mount was in exactly the same, fluid-less, sunken condition but it had the heat shield fitted so didn't know that until I had removed it. Was always going to change both at the same time as it seemed the most sensible thing to do.

I levered from the top of the engine bay, using the engine lift ring just behind the EGR and levering against the inside of the front wing (again using a wooden block, etc to prevent damage). Like I said, it was tricky and second person would have been better.

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