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I ride s-works sl3 with 2013 FC 404 tubs. No problems at all. These wheels kick ass. Before I rode them I removed and fine tuned the preload to exactly where I wanted it - no play, no drag. You can do this by feel.

Is there a big clearance diff between SL2 and SL3? Are your Zipps 2013 models? I think I did read somewhere theat they improved the hub a tad on the 2013 FC with the 11sp freehub. Before those the lateral play was an issue, but I think it's fixed in the latest wheels.

From Zipp website -

In October 2012 a new rear hub version was released to accommodate Shimano11 and Campagnola 11 speed drive chains. The 188 V7 (2012 gray and black) rear hub was modified as follows:- Overall drop to drop length (OLD) is increased by 0.8mm- Axle internal diameter is reduced by 1.0mm (walls are thickened to increase axle strength) - Non-drive side rear end cap is reduced by 1mm, ‘O’ ring removed and colored black- New 11 speed free hub with laser etching, serial number and shim for 10 speed- The V8 88/188 hubs are only available in black, they build a rear wheel which is more durable and marginally stiffer at the same spoke tension. The axle, end cap and free hub are not compatible with the older hub versions (2009-2012). A conversion service is available for only for 2012 188 hubs (gray or black) from Zipp certified wheel builders. The conversion kit is not sold after-market.

tinozee wrote:I ride s-works sl3 with 2013 FC 404 tubs. No problems at all. These wheels kick ass. Before I rode them I removed and fine tuned the preload to exactly where I wanted it - no play, no drag. You can do this by feel.

Thanks for reply.Mine are 2012 model.I don't feel like investing $200 for conversion kit that might not work.

Have you seen my video?You can see the distance I have between the frame and rear rim... I don't know if SL3 has more space, but u could tell me.

That looks like too much play. Have you tried adjusting the preload yourself? With the wheel installed and the skewers properly tightened, loosen the lock screw and tighten the collar till the wheel won't spin freely. Then back it off bit by bit till the wheel does spin nice. That's how I got rid of the side play on mine. The zipp instructions result in too much play in my opinion.

Yup this method setting the preload with the wheel on seems to work well. I have never had to adjust and don't get side to side play or any rattle whatsoever, they feel very solid. I do have other wheels with average hubs and some with nice hubs liie kings and DT 240s. To mee the zip hub stays nice and solid like a 240, whereas a light but mediocre hub like an AC micro 58 will sort of stretch in the bearing seat and rattle, even if you swap out the bearings.

I will try to heasure my clearance or take a pic next time I bring the bike inside in a few days.

goodboyr wrote:That looks like too much play. Have you tried adjusting the preload yourself? With the wheel installed and the skewers properly tightened, loosen the lock screw and tighten the collar till the wheel won't spin freely. Then back it off bit by bit till the wheel does spin nice. That's how I got rid of the side play on mine. The zipp instructions result in too much play in my opinion.

Yes, preload is maximum, tightening it even more only caused bad wheel spin... bearings and axle were replaced... wheels checked in Specialized Concept Store.Imo there's nothing else to fix.

A big problem is the 2012 188 rear hub, even with preload set tighter, causing more drag to the wheel, still would have play often. This was a problem with the hub. They resolved this issue with the 2013 11spd 188 I'm told. But that introduced other things with the dish etc of the 2013 rear.

So your 2012s might have this issue no matter what you try. It is the knock against Zipp, I personally think the 188 is junk, and the radial DS lacing is foolish. I sold my 303 tubulars for this reason basically.

Why not look into another aero wide wheel with a slightly diff profile that is out there and switch to those since you are married to that frame?

Zigmeister wrote:A big problem is the 2012 188 rear hub, even with preload set tighter, causing more drag to the wheel, still would have play often. This was a problem with the hub. They resolved this issue with the 2013 11spd 188 I'm told. But that introduced other things with the dish etc of the 2013 rear.

So your 2012s might have this issue no matter what you try. It is the knock against Zipp, I personally think the 188 is junk, and the radial DS lacing is foolish. I sold my 303 tubulars for this reason basically.

Why not look into another aero wide wheel with a slightly diff profile that is out there and switch to those since you are married to that frame?

Maybe for you, but all of mine are fine. Of course this is the good old internet, where one persons experiences become universal facts for all.