** Make note that most motors will need the shaft reversed, and may need modification to do that.****For those who are not comfortable modifying the shaft here is a good 3mm shaft with the groove already at the end of the shaft that fit the motors I suggest below. 3mm shaft at Hobbyking or US source for 3mm shaft

My 138mph 2nd place setup:Motor:These motors have been discontinued but it was a 65 gram motor for size reference. TP 2415-06T 4400kv I managed to smoke this motor and would recommend the 3850kv instead.Batteries: 2 Turnigy 1600mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack making a 4s packSpeed control: Suppo 50amp speed control with added becProp: TGS Sport 4.1x4.1E Precision propeller
This setup is not really recommended because the weight came to 15.7 oz's but it did fly lol.

When sanding the airfoil be sure to do the top and bottom for a symetrical wing.
I used packing tape to reinforce the plane and believe this adds tons of strength to the plane.
When taping, start from the trailing edges and work your way forward, overlapping each piece of tape and 1/8" to 1/4" on itself. Be sure to tape the whole plane for extra strength.

I designed the motor mount to be a 2 piece setup for easy motor changes.

I wonder too?? If I was to do the kmf4, I would still sand a sharp leading and trailing edge to it. That type of airfoil would provide more strength too.
After my 3rd build is done and proven on 4s I might give it a try.

Nice plane! I've been looking for a design like this to cut out on the Phlatprinter.

When you are able to fly level at, say, 1/4 throttle, and then give it full throttle, if it pitches up, I generally think that's a thrust angle issue. Can you angle the motor DOWN a few degrees, and try it again? I try to build things to need as little trim as I possibly can, within reason.

Ooh dont trim at all. Unfortunately there is a space in between the lines. This is how cutepdf tiled the file for me. I need to figure out how to get rid of that.

If CutePDF allows you to select a custom page size, you could "print" to 8 in. x 10.5 in. "paper", and then print the resulting PDF at 100% - centered. You'd then have a 1/4 in. margin all around each page, allowing users to print all of the content with most printers.

ScaleAndTile3 does all this for you automagically, producing the PDF directly, using the iText Java library, so no printer-driver setup steps are involved.

Best regards,
Bill Segraves

P.S. Please let us know if these ideas work for you with CutePDF, so everyone can benefit from your solution.

Great design 3DMON! It definitely deserves its own build thread! Maybe you could post some of these construction pics in the "Fastest Foamy thread" also. Your Speedy would be a great design for a stock depron pylon racing class!

Mrbubbs I wasn't really having a problem with the plane climbing when I gave full throttle, it was the the torque of the motor and bent nose from that first crash giving it some unwanted left roll when I punched it .

Bill I'll have to play with that a bit when I get a chance, but man I bet your scale and tile would be so much easier .

Pdawg I will be builing #3 real soon, I will add some pics over on the other thead with my construction techniques then.

If CutePDF allows you to select a custom page size, you could "print" to 8 in. x 10.5" "paper", and then print the resulting PDF at 100% - centered. You'd then have a 1/4 in. margin all around each page, allowing users to print all of the content of most printers.

ScaleAndTile3 does all this for you automagically, producing the PDF directly, using the iText Java library, so no printer-driver setup steps are involved.

Best regards,
Bill Segraves

P.S. Please let us know if these ideas work for you with CutePDF, so everyone can benefit from your solution.

Bill,
Thanks for your suggestion. I got it to work.
In fact it works great! Now you can just line the lines up with each other with out there being a space.

I cut one of these out on the Phlatprinter tonight but I have a few questions.

First, I used the 1/8" plan on the phlatforum and noticed that the cut for the tail is very close to the part near it, that they intersected and slightly cut more material in the other piece but I think it'll be fine. I recommend maybe spacing those parts further away from each other.

I'm wondering which order I should do things.. as far as painting and then taping for reinforcement. It seems to me like paint won't stick very well to the packing tape that I was going to use, so is there an order that works better or should I trust that the paint will go on the packing tape OK after I have stuck it all on?

What density sandpaper should I use? Or should I use one of those drywall screens to sand things down?Update: well, I got out the ol' sanding block and some fine grit sandpaper and that seems to work the best without tearing up the foam at all, so that's cool!

I think that should be it, and I'll be ready to build! I'm hoping it'll look almost as nice as 3dmon's!

I cut one of these out on the Phlatprinter tonight but I have a few questions.

First, I used the 1/8" plan on the phlatforum and noticed that the cut for the tail is very close to the part near it, that they intersected and slightly cut more material in the other piece but I think it'll be fine. I recommend maybe spacing those parts further away from each other.

I'm wondering which order I should do things.. as far as painting and then taping for reinforcement. It seems to me like paint won't stick very well to the packing tape that I was going to use, so is there an order that works better or should I trust that the paint will go on the packing tape OK after I have stuck it all on?

What density sandpaper should I use? Or should I use one of those drywall screens to sand things down?Update: well, I got out the ol' sanding block and some fine grit sandpaper and that seems to work the best without tearing up the foam at all, so that's cool!

I think that should be it, and I'll be ready to build! I'm hoping it'll look almost as nice as 3dmon's!

Thanks for the update on the cut file, I'll look into that.

I recommend taping first then paint. What I do that works really well is to sand the tape with 400 grit sandpaper in a swirl motion to help get the paint to stick. I then use the Krylon fusion paint for plastic as my base coat.

As far as the airfoil I found using 150 grit paper works great to rough it in, then I work my way down to 300 grit.