Foreword
Some of you may be aware that TripAdvisor, the world’s
largest travel site, recently announced the Top 25 travel
destinations and St. Petersburg has made it into the
rankings for the first time ever, being named the 20th most
desirable tourist destination in the world. And that is not all!
The State Hermitage was named the best museum in the
world (TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice 2013). These incredible
results are based on millions of valuable traveller reviews and
opinions. Fantastic, isn’t it? Well, we never doubted it! And
now, you can be absolutely sure you made the right choice
to visit the Northern Capital.
St. Petersburg has undergone a radical transformation in
recent years: gastronomy, street life, cultural events, planning
and design have changed the city. And it is still changing:
every day, new places are being opened, world famous
musicians come to perform here, young locals present
their innovative ideas for urban developing, and more. St.
Petersburg is becoming a place where people want to stay,
or at least a place where people want to return to, attracting
more foreign visitors each year than any other city in Russia.
The city is open 24/7, so enjoy it! The guide you are holding
in your hands will give you the best information on everything
you need to know about St. Petersburg. It will help you to
understand the city, and to feel it.
This edition of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is our 90th issue,
and we are very proud that we have come so far. It’s such
a good feeling to be able to share our experiences with our
readers, and make them happy, by advising a good hotel,
restaurant, art exhibition or music event. We would like to
thank you all for your support; our readers and clients are
the best of the best, and always trust in us.
Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Cover story
The four bright pictures you see on our cover were taken
on New Holland this summer. The Summer in New Holland
festival transforms the area into an outdoor park, with lots
of events in the spheres of art, culture, sports, urbanism,
education, and food. In 2011 and 2012, the Summer in
New Holland festival attracted more than 350,000 visitors
to the park. See more on page 5. Photo by Egor Rogalev
for New Holland.

The St. Petersburg Charity AdVita has revived the once popular Russia idea of charitable gifts. AdVita has been helping
cancer patients fund their hospital treatments, as well as
assisting hospital oncology departments, for eleven years.
‘Helping is Easy!’ is a project selling souvenirs drawn by sick
children, with all proceeds going towards their treatment. In
2011 the fund set up a centre which is also called ‘Helping is
Easy!’, a place where you can watch a film, listen to a lecture
from a famous writer, participate in a master class, buy a
souvenir, and make a donation. Souvenirs with the drawings
on include postcards, magnets calendars, notepads, badges,
cups, bags, and T-shirts, and are also sold in the ‘House of
Books’ on Nevsky Prospekt and the ‘Bookvoed’ bookshops.
These children find hope through art and we think it is just
beautiful. www.advita.ru

On 7th June, the British newspaper The Independent released
a list of the top 50 best travel websites, as chosen by four
experts in the field of travel, and the In Your Pocket website
came in at number 3! Glen Mutel, editor of ABTA Magazine
and travel writer, describes In Your Pocket as ‘entertaining and
honest’, and that it makes ‘their rivals seem tame in comparison’. The In Your Pocket team is very proud to have all their
hard work rewarded in this way! www.independent.co.uk

FYR Macedonia

Greece

It’s now 21 years since we published the first In
Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which
time we have grown to become the largest publisher
of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now
cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with
Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed)
and the number of concise, witty, well-written and
downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides
published each year is approaching five million. We
also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40
guides, which can be downloaded for free from the
AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name.
To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/
inyourpocket).

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka
2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review, without
written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Summer in New Holland
This artificial island in the centre of the city was built by
Peter the Great in 1721 to be the first arsenal for his fleet of
military ships. In later years it became a shipyard, then a naval
prison and a Soviet radio station before falling into disuse
and neglect. Finally the area has been put to good use again
and functions as a summer cultural oasis. The Summer in
New Holland festival features farmers markets, cafes, urban
gardening, concerts and DJ sets, craft fairs, garage sales,
beach volleyball, art installations, lectures and workshops
and plenty of space for picnics. Summer in New Holland will
run until September 15, 2013, when the island will close for
renovation, reopening in 2015. Entry to the island and all
events are free. www.newhollandsp.ru

Become a VIP
iVIP is a unique premium lifestyle application for the iPhone.
Members receive VIP Treatment across a range of luxury
partners. The St. Petersburg edition, in partnership with Saint
Petersburg Russia Guide Service (SPBGS), gives you exclusive
access to all of the SPBGS services, including airport lounges
and hotels. You can organise tours of the Hermitage, or float
up and down the city’s rivers and canals by boat. Members
have access to everything you would expect, including being
treated like a VIP at various venues, receiving complimentary
room upgrades at luxurious hotels, and getting priority access
to events. You can also suggest partners you would like to
see included. Members access all of these benefits through
the app, and many of them are not available anywhere else.
If you live in, or are visiting, the city, the iVIP Russia app is a
necessity if you would like an extra special time – it’s a great
way to treat yourself! www.ivipworld.com

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Four Seasons Opening
The highly anticipated Four Seasons Hotel has opened in St.
Petersburg. The Lobanov-Rostovsky Palace, also known as
the House with Lions due to the lions that stand guard either
side of the main entrance, has been completely renovated
and the results are truly stunning. Extensive studies of the
building and its history were made long before any work
began, and it really shows: the renovation stays true to the
original palace, even down to the real gold on the ceilings and
the colour of the paint.
The iconic triangular building was designed by Auguste de
Montferrand, the French architect who designed both St.
Isaac’s Cathedral and the Alexander Column on Palace
Square. Originally conceived as the private address of Russia’s elite, a building containing a number of highly fashionable
apartments to be rented by the well-to-do of St. Petersburg,
the palace has served many purposes since its construction in 1817-20, but has finally been restored to its original
purpose: it’s back, it’s fashionable, and it’s fabulous. The
restaurant at the heart of the hotel has a glass roof and is
filled with plants and beautiful décor. There is nothing more
peaceful than taking afternoon tea here, the sound of strings
in the background and the kind smiles of the staff, willing to
go out of their way to make your day just that little bit more
than perfect.
As an historical building, there were of course many restrictions on the renovation of the palace. One of the most
interesting of these was the fact that certain historical areas,
including the grand staircase and one of the hallways upstairs
must be accessible to the public at all times. The renovation
didn’t just see restrictions, however, but also huge opportunity. Unlike many other palaces and historical locations, the
Four Seasons was able to plan every detail before doing any
work. For example, the ballroom was designed for optimum
use of modern technology whilst maintaining the beautiful
imperial design. And, of course, everywhere has excellent,
and invisible, heating.
It’s taken a while, as such massive projects always do, but the
opening of the Four Seasons hotel in St. Petersburg has really
caused a stir in the industry and among the city’s elite. This
is definitely a place to see and be seen. www.fourseasons.
com/stpetersburg

August - September 2013

5

6

Basics AND LANGUAGE

Basics AND LANGUAGE

Be on guard!

Useful Phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you
have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian
descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t
speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33.
The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help
you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if
your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your
passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few
photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians
all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather
than the original.

Foreigner Prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Pocket dictionary: Kak doma
If Russians are known for anything, they are surely known
for their great hospitality. When you visit them at their house,
they want you to feel kak doma, meaning they want you to
feel at home. Kak means how or like, and doma means at
home (coming from the Russian noun for house.) When you
enter a Russian’s house, they, being good hosts say to you
‘Chustvuite sebya kak doma’ meaning Make yourself at
home. Fling off your shoes, slip some tapochki (slippers)
onto your feet and head to the dining table. Drink as much
as you can and eat as much food as you want (in fact around
the Russian dining table, the two activities go hand in hand).

Health and Safety

Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is
certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist
Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka
is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose
from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot,
followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular
alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye
(Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note
that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5%
between 23:00 and 08:00.

Climate
St. Petersburg is often baking in August and many locals
head away to their country homes to escape the heat of
the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself
some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month and often
ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget your sunglasses!

Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than
your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest
danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and
huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk.
The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy
metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For
drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water,
or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile GSM
phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are abroad
you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing
calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for a direct-dial
number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and
then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mobile to a fixed
line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to buy a local
SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, you need to
show your passport, visa and registration.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in
denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins
come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and
kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or
euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your
arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays).
Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of
arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you
don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems
when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight
while officials interrogate you.

Culture & Events
Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing
it through the finest museums and historical locations, you
can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and
every night you choose.

Buying Concert Tickets
Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices
and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many
in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as
they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and
shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets
and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also
sell tickets online. There are also a number of online
services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets
online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the
city for an additional fee.
Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers
their event listings in English. Payment options include
cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit
card (MC/V).
Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options
include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered)
or credit card (MC/V).

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

August events

29.08 Thursday

05.08 Monday

E-2, Avrora Club, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 812 907 19 17, www.herbrightskiesofficial.tumblr.
com. The Swedish post-hardcore band ‘Her Bright Skies‘ was
formed in 2005, with their first demo being released in 2007,
called ‘Beside Quiet Waters‘. The year 2007 was very successful for ‘Her Bright Skies‘. When they weren‘t working on new
material for the album, they spent the summer performing at
popular Swedish festivals, such as Moshpit Open, followed by a
tour of Norway, where they first came across the non-Swedish
scene. A year later they released their debut album, called ‘A
Sacrament; III City‘, and their second album, ‘Causing a Scene‘,
was released in 2010. They played the Pier Pressure Festival
with, HIM, Pendulum and Paramore. They then headlined the
Panic & Action tour. They have performed in many different
countries worldwide. Q Tickets 400 - 500Rbl.

20:00 The Smashing Pumpkins

D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)
812 309 99 22, www.smashingpumpkins.com. Fifteen
years after their first visit to Russia, American alternative
rock legends The Smashing Pumpkins are returning to St
Petersburg. They are not only smashing by name, but smashing by nature, with a diverse sound combining elements of
gothic rock, heavy metal, shoegazing and many other styles.
The concert is part of their World Tour and will combine the
13 songs from their most recent album Oceania with their
greatest hits from throughout their 25 year history. Q Tickets
1,300 - 4,500Rbl.

20:00 Her Bright Skies

10.08 Saturday

23:00 Record Zero

B-1, Club Vozdukh, Yuzhnaya doroga 6, MKrestovsky
ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www.radiorecord.
ru. Radio Record returns the legendary open air crazy rave
atmosphere to St. Petersburg in August - with Record Zero!
They remember how it was last time! Thousands of people
dressed in acid coloured clothes, and masked men besieged
the ‘Jubilee‘. The music that was copied from cassette to cassette, and turned up to the fullest, to irritate the neighbours.
It will be an unforgettable break. There are three dance floors,
a pool, a beach, and the best zero music. And, of course, the
legendary show of naked women! Q Tickets 800 - 25,000Rbl.

24.08 Saturday - 31.08 Saturday

The Ninth Elena Obraztsova International
Competition of Young Opera Singers
D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.obraztsova.
org. Over 100 young opera singers from across the globe will
be taking part in this year’s competition. With an impressive
jury, including names such as Tamara Synyavska, Renato
Bruzon and Grace Bumbry, and headed by the world renowned
opera singer Elena Obraztsova, the competition promises to
be fierce and the music beautiful. This seven day competition will involve performances of arias from operas as well
as chamber and vocal works. The prize money is high, as
will be the standards. As part of the event there will also
be an exhibition of art by Mist Zhumbaeva dedicated to the
50th anniversary of Elena Obraztsova’s career. You can buy
tickets for the opening (24.08) and the final concert (31.08).
Q Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

September events
03.09 Tuesday

20:00 Lenka

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
lenkamusic.com. Lenka Kripac is the daughter of a Czech
musician, and grew up in Australia. She became famous for her
song ‘Everything at Once‘, which was used in the Windows 8
advertisement. She began song writing in childhood, but chose
a career in television. It was only when she became a well-known
TV presenter that Lenka recorded two albums with a local band.
She then moved to California.
There, she became known as
Lenka, which is also the name
of her debut album. On 3rd
September in St. Petersburg,
Lenka will not only sing everyone‘s favourite ‘Everything at
Once‘, but also present her
new album ‘Shadows‘. Q
Tickets 1,000 - 2,200Rbl.

06.09 Friday

20:00 Eluveitie

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
eluveitie.ch. The legendary Swiss rock band Eluveitie is
coming to St. Petersburg with their new album ‘Helvetios‘
and their greatest hits! The band was founded accidentally
in 2001 when Christian ‘Kriegel‘ Glanzmann decided to record
a solo album, and invited many different musicians to participate. The recording, ‘Vкn‘ (‘wild joy‘ in Gallic) impressed the
audience so much that Glanzmann decided to put together a
band, naming it after the Etruscan language name for a Helvetii tribe that inhabited the territory that is now Switzerland.
Eluveitie is one of the most successful European folk metal
bands, and each of their albums has historical significance.
They combine ancient instruments with electric guitars, and
dedicate their songs to bloody battles and romantic legends.
Q Tickets 800 - 1,600Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Philharmonia New Season

D-3, Grand Philharmonic Hall, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2;
Small Philharmonic Hall, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.
spb.ru. According to tradition, on 25th September, the
birthday of Dmitri Shostakovich, the St. Petersburg
Philharmonic Orchestra will begin its 93rd season.
The first concert of the season will take place with
the participation of the Russian Philharmonic Orchestra under Yuri Temirkanov. The programme includes
Dmitri Shostakovich’s sixth symphony, and ‘The Rite
of Spring’ by Igor Stravinsky. This will be the 100th
anniversary of the performance of this composition,
first performed on the stage of the Paris Theatre on
the Champs Elysees.
This season will see the celebration of the 75th anniversary of the artistic director of the St. Petersburg
Philharmonic Orchestra, maestro Yuri Temirkanov. This
will be marked by the upcoming festival ‘Arts Square’,
which will be held from 14th-25th December, and will
bring together musicians such as Mariss Jansons, Evgeny Kissin, Vadim Repin, Denis Matsuev, Yuri Bashmet,
Pinchas Zukerman, and Eliso Virsaladze. The Royal
Philharmonic Orchestra of London will also perform,
under Pinchas Zuckerman. In his anniversary year, Yuri
Temirkanov will give eleven concerts with the orchestra,
with partners including the singers Natalie Dessay and
Johan Kupfer, cellist Mischa Maisky, violinist Andrey
Baranov, and pianists Denis Matsuev, Eliso Virsaladze
and Nikolai Lugansky.
For the first time in his history at the St. Petersburg
Philharmonic Orchestra, Yuri Temirkanov will conduct
the double-row “German Requiem” by Johannes Brahms.
Concerts take place on 25 and 26 March 2014. Other
highlights include piano evenings, a series of chamber
orchestra concerts, the ‘Musical Collection’ Festival
in June, a series of concerts dedicated to the 100th
anniversary of Benjamin Britten, and performances
from the baritone Vassily Gerello and the rising opera
star Julia Lezhneva. On the anniversary of the death
of Alexander Pushkin, the Small Philharmonic Hall will
present a theatrical composition by Alexander Sokurov,
accompanied by the ‘Requiem’ composition by Mozart.

For all the latest concert, event
and exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/
StPetersburgInYourPocket
August - September 2013

9

10

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
07.09 Saturday

13.09 Friday - 16.09
Monday

20:00 Yonderboi

06.09 Friday

Club Zal Ozhidaniya, nab. Obvodnogo kan. 118,
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.yonderboi.
com. After a long break away from Russia, the most talented
Hungarian dark lounge/ trip-hop composer, Yonderboi, is
returning, with his audio-visual show! Young Hungarian Laszlo
Fogarasi, aka Yonderboi, is known as a child prodigy: he began
recording at the age of just 16, and at 19 released his first
CD ‘Shallow and Profound‘. In 2005, he released his second
album, ‘Splendid Isolation‘. Laszlo Fogarasi is a fan of old
European and Hungarian cinema cartoons, mid-20th century
hazz, and modern trip-hop , and manages to combine them
all in his music and shows. He fits well into the European
electronic family. Q Tickets 500 - 1,200Rbl.

20:00 Bondage Fairies

E-2, Avrora Club, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina,
tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.myspace.com/bondagefairiessweden. Bondage Fairies is a two-man punk/
death rock band from Sweden. Their music is describes as
an offspring of punk and electro. Elvis Creep started the band
after being rejected from art school, and was joined by Deus
Deceptor. They perform with their faces hidden by masks,
so that they know that their fans like them for their music,
and not for their ‘cute faces‘. They are now world famous,
releasing their first album ‘What You Didn‘t Know When You
Hired Me‘ in 2005. The release was a hit in Russia, Germany
and China, but not in their home country. They now have
four members, three studio albums, and are going on tour.
Q Tickets 700 - 1,100Rbl.

Moroshka Fashion Week
22.08 Thursday - 25.08 Sunday

Moroshka Fashion Week 2013

D-2, The Atrium of the Peter and Paul Fortress,
MGorkovskaya, www.moroshka.org. From 22nd25th August, the Atrium of the Peter and Paul Fortress
will host the elite Moroshka Fashion Week 2013. This is
a platform for designers of varying sizes, and working
in differing directions. Along with European designers,
such as Miko Spinelli, Mastruka, and Andrea Lazzari,
Russian designers, including Stas Lopatkin, and Janis
Chamalidi were invited to participate. The business,
cultural, and political elite will gather together, as well
as well-known fashion-bloggers and celebrities. Guests
include European fashion figures, including Luca Bacelli.
This event marks the next step in forming the image of
St. Petersburg as a world fashion capital. Q Entrance is
by invitation only. To get an invitation please call our office.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

CHAPLIN the Musical

D-3, State Theatre of Musical Comedy, Italyanskaya
ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 570 53 16, www.
chaplinbroadway.com. From
13th-16th September, the St.
Petersburg State Theatre of
Musical Comedy will present
the premiere of the Broadway
musical ‘Chaplin‘, based on the life and work of the great
movie actor. The American director and choreographer Warren Carlyle, who brought the musical to Broadway, will be in
charge of the St. Petersburg production. Broadway professionals will work behind the scenes. The audience will see the
history of Charlie Chaplin, his entire career, from his childhood
poverty, to his rise to fame. Q Tickets 400 - 3,500Rbl.

21.09 Saturday

20:00 The Rasmus

12.09 Thursday

20:00 Jay-Jay Johanson

Club Zal Ozhidaniya, nab. Obvodnogo kan. 118,
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.jayjayjohanson.com. Jay Jay Johanson is a Swedish singersongwriter, born in 1969. He learnt to play the guitar when he
was 14, and drew inspiration from Elvis. He began to create
his own music in the mid-nineties, with the result of three
albums: Whiskey (1996), Tattoo (1998), and Poison (2000).
The album Antenna appeared in 2002, and was a success Europe had not heard something like that before. The Poison
album was co-written by the Cocteau Twins guitarist Robin
Guthrie, with a follow-up arrangement by Johanson. The album
has gained popularity on Europe, occupying high positions in
the music charts (reaching number 4 in France). That year,
Johanson recorded the soundtrack to the film La Confusion
des Genres. He then released the single ‘On the Radio‘. The
follow-up albums to Atenna, ‘Rush‘ and ‘The Effects are not Yet
Known‘, are more musically divers, combining the melancholic
tone of the first jazz trip-hop albums with the electro sounds
from Antenna. It seems he can now do it all. Currently the
musician has released more than 30 albums (LP‘s, EP‘s, single
albums). Q Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

D-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
therasmus.com. Legendary Finnish rock group The Rasmus
is returning to St. Petersburg for a live show combining the
band’s hits with some fresh new songs. The Rasmus has
one of those classic stories of which most can only dream:
3 ordinary high school students formed a rock back, they
performed at their prom, they lived for the music without
pretention. And then their songs began to rise in the charts
and now they’re famous across the globe. The Rasmus’ passion and energy is well-known, and this concert promises to
be no different. Q Tickets 1,700 - 3,850Rbl.

Open Cinema 2013

02.08 Friday - 08.08 Thursday

Open Cinema. International film festival

D-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 927 85 08, www.opencinemafest.ru. From
2nd-8th August, St. Petersburg will host the 9th International short and animation film festival OPEN CINEMA. The
atmosphere of creativity will fill the city for seven days
and will turn it into the territory of free auteur cinematography. The festival starts with two-day movie marathons
at the beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress. There will
be also a two hour concert on both evenings (start at
20:00), beach games (volleyball, badminton, Frisbee) and
creative workshops. From 4th-8th August, the festival will
continue in the cinema center Rodina (Karavannaya ul. 12,
metro Nevsky pr.) with displays of competitive cinema,
educational events and workshops. Over 21 countries,
including the UK, France, The Netherlands, Belgium,
Thailand, and Kazakhstan, are participating in the short
film competition, and the winner will be announced at
the closing ceremony of the festival on 8th August. Q
Tickets 500 - 600Rbl.

27.09 Friday

20:00 Brit Floyd. P-U-L-S-E 2013

23.09 Monday

19:30 Selena Gomez

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel.
(+7) 812 380 80 50, www.selenagomez.com. American
singer and actor, Selena Gomez, is coming to St. Petersburg
for a concert in the Ice Palace. Having made her acting debut
as a child in the popular television series ‘Barney and Friends’,
and going on to do a number of television series and films,
Selena came to music quite late in comparison to her acting
career, and still juggles the two disciplines. So concerts are
somewhat limited: get your tickets now if you want to see
her! Q Tickets from 7,000Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel.
(+7) 812 380 80 50, www.britfloyd.com. In celebration
of the 40th anniversary of Pink Floyd‘s defining album ‚The
Dark Side of the Moon‘, Brit Floyd tribute band is on tour with
a new three hour show featuring songs from the five classic
Pink Floyd albums. In Petersburg the show will have an all-new
light show with hypnotic animations and projections. Musical
director, guitarist and vocalist Damian Darlington has such an
excellent knowledge of Pink Floyd‘s music that he somehow
manages to maintain the original style, keeping all the nuances, and yet also present the music in a new and exciting
way. Q Tickets 800 - 3,500Rbl.

August - September 2013

11

12

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

Exhibitions

Through 31.08 Saturday

Through 19.08 Monday

D-2, Beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.
ru. The annual Sand Sculpture Festival is theoretically
designed with children in mind, but is fun for all ages. Sculptors from all over Europe, as well as from North America,
will be taking part in the festival creating huge elaborate
sculptures made from sand in a whole manner of different
amusing, intelligent, mystical and grandiose styles. Q
Open 10:00 - 21:00.

The 400th anniversary of the Romanovs

D-2, Mikhailovsky Palace, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. The
last time the anniversary of the Romanov dynasty was
celebrated as a national holiday was in 1913, as, after the
October Revolution, this day was suppressed. However, in
2013, the foundation of the House of Romanov, on 14th
March 1613, is being observed again. St. Michael‘s Castle
(Mikhailovsky Palace) is hosting an exhibition of more than
150 works of paintings, sculptures, graphics, and decorative arts from the Russian Museum. It features drawings
dedicated to this moment in history, as well as paintings and
sculpture of members of the royal family, created by famous
artists including L.Karavak and G.Odolsky. Q Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

Through 04.11 Monday

Sand Sculpture Festival

Leningrad of the 1920’s - 1940’s

01.08 Thursday - 31.08 Saturday

Beauty without Glamour

Boris Kocheishvili
14.08 Wednesday - 16.09 Monday

Boris Kocheishvili. Simple Summer

D-2, The Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.
rusmuseum.ru. The artist Boris Kocheishvili formed his
distinctive style as early as the 1960s, and his works
from the last ten years will be on display, including paintings and plaster reliefs. Kocheishvili is not only a major
contemporary artist, but also a poet, and the author of
six books. His poems were included in the two volume
anthology of Russian poetry from 1950-2000, and the
very title of the exhibition, ‘Simply Summer‘, comes from
the collection of his poems, which has been republished,
complete with illustrations by the author. The exhibition
space includes quotes from his poems, as well as a
documentary film about Kocheishvili. Q Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

D-3, Stroganov Palace, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.
ru. The exhibition traces the development of Russian
photography in the nude genre, beginning in the 1900s, to
the beginning of the 21st century. There are around 100
works which are related to the image of the nude female
form, from the creativity of local photographers who have
worked both in Russia and abroad. Among the artists are
A.Eberling, N.Svishchov-Paola, A.Knyazev, D.Vozdvizhensky,
A.Esipovich and others. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00
- 21:00. Closed Tue.

Through 02.09 Monday

Alexander Golovin

D-2, Benois Wing, nab.
kan. Griboedova 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 595 42 48, w w w.
rusmuseum.ru. The exhibition is dedicated to the
150th anniversar y of the
birth of the famous Russian
artist A. Golovin. It contains
about 150 works, including
paintings, drawings, and
theatre and decorative art
from the collection of several museums, such as the Russian Museum, the Russian
Geographical Museum, and the St. Petersburg State Museum
of Theatre and Music. Also included in the exhibition are
authentic costumes from the Alexandrinsky Theatre‘s collection, which were designed by the artist. He designed the
production at the Mariinsky and Alexandrinksy Theatres, and
preferred to paint actors, singers, dancers, and stage workers.
Some of his famous landscapes, such as ‘Forest River‘, and
‘Autumn‘, are also on display. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

FC Zenit

C-3, The Rumyantsev Mansion, Angliskaya nab. 44,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. 498 05 03, www.spbmuseum.
ru. The State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg
presents a new exhibition in the Rumyantsev Mansion. The
exhibition shows Leningrad through the works of artists of
the 1920s to the 1940s. It brings together more than 100
paintings in the museum‘s collection, as well as other museums and private collections. Most of the painters were part
of the Leningrad art group ‘Circle of Artists‘, which included
A.S. Vedernikov, A.F. Pakhomov, and A.N. Samokhvalov. The
exhibition shows cityscapes of Leningrad, with familiar and
unfamiliar parts of the city, such as the Moika, a flea market,
the old town, and industrial areas. Perfect for anyone with an
interest in art or history. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Wed.

Through January 2014

Gegenlicht. German Art from the George
Economou Collection
D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff
Building, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This
temporary exhibition of German art from the George Economou Collection explores the legacy of German Expressionism
and New Objectivity in post-war and contemporary art. The
exhibition brings together important works from the last
century, juxtaposing various pieces to show the influence
of earlier artists on those working in the latter part of the
twentieth century. Accompanied by an illustrated catalogue
in Russian and English including essays from prominent art
historians, the exhibition promises to be both accessible and
thought-provoking for all those who visit. Q Open 10:30 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Zenit will be gunning for a new title when its kicks off
the new Russian Premier League season on July 17
in Krasnodar. Zenit has its first two games of the year
on the road, then comes to Petrovsky Stadium for the
home opener in St. Petersburg on July 26 vs. Kuban.
The home faithful will no doubt fill the whole stadium on
a glorious summer day, so it’s best to buy an E-ticket
early at tickets.fc-zenit.ru. Zenit will also be hosting
new rival Anzhi on August 17 at Petrovsky Stadium, and
Lokomotiv on August 31.
Furthermore, Zenit has its work cut out to qualify for
this year’s Champions League group stage. Zenit must
first get through two Champions League qualifying
rounds. Zenit is exempt from rounds 1 and 2 thanks to
its second place performance in last year’s Russian
Premier League, but must pass through rounds 3 and
4. Zenit is a seeded team for the third round qualification draw, and can play with PAOK (Greece), Salzburg
(Austria), Nordsjælland (Denmark), Grasshoppers
(Switzerland), or Zulte-Waregem (Belgium). The draw
for the third qualifying round of the UEFA Champions
League will be held on July 19 in Nyon, Switzerland.
The first matches take place on July 30 or 31, and the
return leg is on August 6 or 7.
Visitors to beautiful St. Petersburg who can’t get to a
Zenit match have another brilliant option this summer
to learn more about the city’s favorite club. Zenit has
opened a new exhibition about the football traditions of
St. Petersburg entitled “Zenit in the Heart of the City”.
The exhibition was opened on July 4, and will be running
for the next two months, through September 3. The exhibition covers three rooms in the St. Petersburg History
Museum, located in one of St. Petersburg’s most iconic
locations: the Peter and Paul Fortress. The exhibition is
open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., every day of the week except Wednesday. Take a look and see what makes local
residents so proud of their football traditions!
The exhibition contains models of former and current
St. Petersburg football stadiums, tickets to the match
between Zenit and Spartak Kharkov, which was supposed to take place on July 22, 1941, but never did
because of the outbreak of World War II, rare uniforms
worn by Leningrad footballers, and unique trophies. Furthermore, the exhibition has an interactive component
through which fans can learn historic facts, or just play
fussball together.
Entrance to the exhibition costs 150Rbl for adults, and
70Rbl for a reduced fare ticket.

August - September 2013

13

14

FeatureS
Rubinshteina Street
Ulitsa Rubinshteina is today
known for its plethora of
diverse bars, cafes, and
restaurants and there
is even talk of making it
a pedestrian zone, one of
the few such places in the
city centre. Initially an alley
that appeared in the 1740s,
it received the name of
Troitksy pereulok in 1798,
before its upgrade to the
status of Troitskaya ul. in
1887. It was renamed in
honour of composer Anton
Rubinshtein (1829-1894) in
1929. He lived for a number
o f yea r s a t h o u s e 3 8.
Considered one of the 19th
Painting by Ilya Repin, 1915 century’s premiere piano
virtuosos and the author of 20 operas, he also founded the
St. Petersburg Conservatory (his older brother Nikolay founded
the Moscow Conservatory).
At the beginning of the street if walking away from the
McDonald’s on Nevsky (for your reference: odd-numbered
buildings will be on your right and even-numbered ones on
the left) is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey
Aleksandrovich (House 1), the boarding houses of P.K.
Palkin (4) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5).
At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a rather new structure,
having been built by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an
early constructivist style by architect Andrey Ol (7).
Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous for lifting
the spirits of Leningrad residents through radio addresses
during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943.
She called it the “most absurd building in St. Petersburg”.
It is called Dom-kommuna inzhenirov i pisateley (Communal
House of Engineers and Writers), and informally known as
Sleza sotsializma (the tears of socialism). This is a classic
example of socialist housing philosophy as these domkommuna buildings were supposed to become the norm
for the proletarian idea of the communisation of everyday
life. Living in such communal spaces was intended to be
a method for killing the habits of individualism prevalent
before the Revolution. Originally there were 52 apartments,
a shower at the end of each hall, and no kitchens. A cafeteria
was located on site. As a specific trend, it waned by the
end of the 1930s.
Across the street at the corner of Grafsky pereulok (18) is the
Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky
Teatr, where a theatrical museum and library is also
currently housed. This building was constructed in 1837, and

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

FeatureS
reconstructed in 1899 by architect Aleksandr Fon Gogen
(1856-1914) who himself lived at this address for ten years.
The building is also the former boarding house of Levky
Zheverzheev, who is also the founder of the museum and
library housed here.
Following up on the right is the boarding and meeting house
of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Many
different institutions were located in this building over the
years, including the St. Petersburg Assembly of Artists, the
head office of the Journal of the Ministry of the People’s
Enlightenment, the Arctic Society, the St. Petersburg Drama
Society, a gymnasium, theatre director Vsevolod Meyerhold’s
studio, and in Soviet times a school. Beginning in 1981, it also
was the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicentre of
the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by the
KGB, it was the first legal rock music venue in the city and
legendary bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium
performed there regularly. Today it houses the children’s
musical theatre, Zerkalo.
The next building is the boarding house of count Mikhail
Tolstoy (1845-1913), designed in the Nordic National
Romantic Style (15-17). Tolstoy was a hero of the RussianTurkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built just before
his death between 1910-1912. The design of this building is
quite complex with three arches that lead through separate
courtyards from Rubinshteina to the Fontanka Canal. Over the
years many television programmes and movies have been
filmed in these courtyards. Among the many famous people
that have resided in this building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012),
the Soviet crooner who became famous in the last years of
his life for the Youtube sensation, Trololo.

(+7) 812 764 52 56. Combining the cosy with the modern,
the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (rus. Apron) is one of those
charming family-run places that make you want to return again
and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous
Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the
friendly and relaxed tone which is shared by the welcoming and
attentive young waitstaff. European and Asian cuisine. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. €. PTAGSW

Pepper Moon E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/
peppermoon. From the street, the restaurant looks very
small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more
than 100 people. The designers have realized an interesting
and complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit
alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter
to fully insulate your table. Note the icy display case of fresh
fish and seafood. You can choose what you want, and how
it is cooked. International cuisine. Q €€. PTASW

Vinostudia E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38, www.vinobar.ru. Vinostudia
derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink
bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to
that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is
often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked
this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a
second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced.
So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to
sip great wine, this is a good choice. European cuisine. Q
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00 €€. PASW

812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of
welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting the
usual images of Italy (jars of condiments and olives here, an
Italian meat and cheese case there), although it’s the tables
full of noisy dinners that really make up the unpretentious
atmosphere. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas
and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes
pop with garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point
with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. Italian cuisine. Q Open
24hrs. €. PTASW

(+7) 812 947 35 72. It has an unusual format for a restaurant in St. Petersburg, offering a small menu of six dishes,
salad, soup of the day, and one dessert. You will be served a
set of three original sauces (there are 18 overall on the menu,
and you can order any one you like separately) to complement
each dish. In the background, they exclusively play classical
music, and there is a string quartet every evening. European
cuisine. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW

Two famous writers lived in building 23: Soviet science fiction
novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) and
journalist and writer Sergey Dovlatov (1941-1990). Yefremov
is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which
tells the story of a communist utopia set far in the future.
Dovlatov lived in this building in a communal apartment for
several decades before immigrating to the United States in
the late 1970s. Known for his clear depictions of Soviet life and
its absurdities, he was influential in samizdat (self-published
works) in the Soviet Union, and helped put Russian New York
on the literary map. Most often compared to Anton Chekhov,
his wit and insights have made him a very popular author,
available in probably every bookstore in the country. A plaque
honours his memory here.
Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other
streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova)
to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection
in all of St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and
Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical physicist
Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he was
arrested during the Great Purges in 1937. He was executed
the following February.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

15

16

hotels

FeatureS
Raketa factory
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the
only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one
of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being
Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements;
including the hair spring and escapement.
It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the
Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the
outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become
the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the
Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the
stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which
you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers.
The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name
Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made
the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed
the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this.
With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be
reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60
workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the
factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern
equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved
the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines
indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. An

Raketa Polar Watch
One of Raketa’s most interestin g wa tch es is th e
‘Pol yarnye’ (Polar) model,
which was designed specifically for Soviet polar explorers. Following a Soviet State
order in 1969, a Raketa 2623
H movement with its 24 hour
dial, and luminous watch face
in order to be easily visible in
the dark, was made for those
who were braving long polar
nights and extremel y low
temperatures. The ‘Polyarnye’
watch was originally exclusively distributed by special order, and therefore was
not available to the public. By the mid 1970s, watches
designed for submariners and astronauts were created
on the basis of the ‘Polyarnye’ model. This model only
became available to the public after the beginning of
perestroika – in fact, just hours after it began the watch
model began to appear in shops. This watch has been
newly redesigned, and now has a sapphire glass and a
genuine leather strap. It features the North and South
Poles on its face, and a unique design with animals
associated with the Arctic and Antarctic on the back.

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from
some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and
friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according
to the information received by us from hotels for the
period August - September 2013. In Your Pocket assumes
no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.

5 Stars

ex-Rolex production director joined the team in 2012, planning
to pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and
“COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new
“Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by
the famous actress Natalia Vodianova.
Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and
affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored
to the needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour
dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and
Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys
and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated
solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing
around the world. The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s
vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones. Other
watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user to
look up any date and discover which day of the week it will fall
on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead of
a 12. Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which
Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’.
As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa produce
few women’s watches. Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’
watch, which features red stars on its face reminiscent of
those on the Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by
Russian folk tales.
Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special
occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle,
a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the
200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also
designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with
a different sport represented at each hour.
The company offers free tours (available in English) of the
factory, which is located near Peterhof Palace. Visitors can look
at the machines, learn more of the factory’s history from the
workers, and see the watch models; they would make great
souvenirs of your time in Russia.
www.raketa.com

Where to Buy

Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.
corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment
the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star conference and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance,
compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly
modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is
that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine
on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff
are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference
organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start
at 18,150Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast 1,330Rbl.
PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh

Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab.

reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99
00, www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into
Russia from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel
style the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful
and bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is
the canal-view cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life
style with neon bright colours and art installations. Up in the
rooms there’s ample space to work, rest and play with large
desks, rain showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme
here too is bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in
sight, which is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that
this is not just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room
price start at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast
1,200Rbl. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh

Angleterre Hotel D-3, Ul. Malaya Morskaya 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to
its high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a
unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with a
Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy and
contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet
flooring. Views of St. Isaac‘s are unparalleled from their deluxe
suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef
has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly
executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch
buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room price start
at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child friendly

H Conference facilities

K Restaurant

U Facilities for the disabled

C Swimming pool

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

D Sauna

M Nearest metro station

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

17

18

hotels

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg

D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
It may be situated at the foot of St. Isaac‘s Cathedral, but
the Four Seasons Hotel certainly doesn‘t stand in its shadow.
The newly renovated House with Lions is an extraordinary
triangular building whose exterior is almost as impressive
as its interior. Think ‘cellists, plush carpets and gold-leafed
ceiling work. The Four Seasons is the epitome of classy. The
hotel not only offers luxurious suites and guest rooms, but
also impeccable service and top quality amenities. With an
impressive ballroom and a stunning bar, along with two restaurants and a spa to open later, what more could we possibly
want? Since it‘s just been renovated, everything in the hotel
is completely up-to-date and the whole project has been meticulously thought through for the comfort and convenience of
the guests. And all that with a more than generous serving of
style. Q183 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Extra
bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included.
PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya
Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original
art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in
the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush divine
room fittings. Suites themed around personages, places and
institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously
designed down to the last detail. There are also five top-notch
restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar (the only one in
the city) or authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining,
L‘Europe with its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with
its atrium above, oozes elegance and bustles with livewire
atmosphere. The Grand Hotel Europe plays an important role
in the city, with many famous guests, including Bill Clinton,
Elton John, and Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Three royals visited
in 2011 – Queen Sofia of Spain, Queen Margrethe II and
Queen Paola of Belgium. Q276 rooms (Room prices start
at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast (2,000Rbl) are not included.
PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh

Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.
com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase,
the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar,
the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and
the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the
hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to
preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art
nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary
upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The
presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the
original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces
in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of
treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based
Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
PTHAFGKDwW hhhhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. Reky Moiky
22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.
kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika
22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very heart
of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the renowned
Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel is just two
minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close to all major
sights and shopping. The unique location of the panoramic
Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel makes it one
of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole old St Petersburg.
The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 rooms and suites
and features the panoramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant,
Beau Rivage restaurant; Wine Cellar 1853; Tea Room and the
Von Witte bar with its log fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices
start at 11,475Rbl). Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast 1,575Rbl.
PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh
Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi-

Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.
sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a
cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial
hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious skylight
lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walkways reaching
from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the brick tower. The
downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel,
their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and comfortable with
thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the rooms are crisp
and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices start at 5,900Rbl).
PTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St. Petersburg,
the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the
corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared
in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the
results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are
the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably
decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress
suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there‘s
a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the
city. In addition to Griboedov, the hotel‘s Taleon restaurant
does a reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria
restaurant offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices
start at 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast 1,750Rbl.
PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh
W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg.
com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in
for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly
contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not
merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling
around the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music.
Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cockst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

tails at the rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves
with views of St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss
Spa pampers with a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre
and Wet pool area are gleaming temples for body worship.
Meeting spaces contain state-of-the-art technology along
with unique sensory devices to keep ideas flowing. Each
room wows with their signature W bed, designer decor and
ultra-plush amenities. Q137 rooms (Room prices start at
9,500Rbl). Breakfast 1,500Rbl., incl. depending on a room
type. PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh

4 Stars
Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen-

naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassadorhotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and ancient
district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket (Sennaya
pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright red carpets
and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chandeliers, a trendy bar
and the classic fine-dining Ambassador restaurant all greet
you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has numerous facilities
including a tour agency and a 16m pool and juice bar! Q255
rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). Breakfast 750Rbl.
PHAUFLGKDCW hhhh

AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky
pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.
azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the
Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the
impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms
are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been
recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This
is the tallest building in this part of the city and shortly (in
November) the new Sky Bar will be re-opened with the most
amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with
a modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves, among others,
great pizza‘s as well. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at
2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West

Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance
via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This
business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space
and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms,
including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable
and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which
has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the
reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer.
There‘s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk
from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location on
Kanal Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). Breakfast (850 Rbl) and VAT
are not included. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky

C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.
Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 room
hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium assembly room,
and enormous desks in every room even the most workaholic
guest is well-catered for. The rooms and beds themselves
are also generously sized and decorated in a simple yet
warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s a light and
airy Russian/French restaurant with views to the river, as
well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 rooms (Room
prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) not included in
Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

19

20

hotels
Ask the Concierge
My name is Natalia Shilenok. I graduated from the
Herzen State Pedagogical
University, in the Department
of Foreign Languages. After
my studies, I spent a couple
of years teaching English in
the College of Tourism, and
I also worked for the Viking
River Cruises company. This
work experience made me
even more interested in the
hospitality business. As a result, I started working in
the newly opened Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic
Hotel. Currently, I’m working as a concierge in the W St.
Petersburg Hotel.
What does it take to be a good concierge?
To me, a concierge is not just a person who knows the
city and makes dinner, spa or limo reservations. The perfect concierge anticipates the guest’s needs and make
them feel special. You can literally make dreams come
true, from knowing the secret word to get into a club, to
being able to get a guest into a fully booked restaurant
by knowing the owner. Our role is to find and create solutions to different guests’ problems and requests. It is
essential to be punctual, enthusiastic, and effective, and
to always keep promises while interacting with guests.
You must always have up-to-date information about local
life and events, and to establish and maintain contacts
with city vendors.
What would you advise tourists to do and see in St
Petersburg in August and September?
Usually it is still warm until September in St. Petersburg,
so I would recommend visiting the summer residences
of the Tsars, such as Pushkin and Pavlovsk, especially
as they are not as crowded as they are in June and
July. The charming park of Pavlovsk, or the magnificent
golden trees and numerous ponds and cosy paths of
Catherine’s and Alexandrovsky gardens, are great places
to stretch your legs.
How is the hospitality industry improving in Russia?
During the last decade, new hospitality institutes and
faculties have been opened. The students have more
opportunities to travel, to learn something new and
spend time in hospitality enterprises. As a result, the
level of service has changed greatly. The amount of
tourists visiting our country is increasing every year. We
can provide a higher quality of service to our guests and
satisfy even the most demanding party.
What would you recommend to tourists for a truly
Russian experience?
I would recommend taking a river cruise from St. Petersburg to Moscow. Along the way, you can enjoy the
beauty of northern nature, as well as discover ancient
towns, such as Uglich, Kizhi, with its numerous churches,
and the unique Russian village of Mandrogi, where you
can learn about native crafts, and drink herbal tea from
a samovar. Another option for young and adventurous
types is to walk on the roofs of St. Petersburg. Tourists
will have the opportunity to see the historical city from
a different angle, visit ancient courtyards, and feel the
Russian soul of St. Petersburg.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul.
6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00,
www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international terminal
of Pulkovo airport, this is the city‘s first airport hotel. A modern
design on the building‘s facade includes quirky windows in the
guest rooms, designed for watching planes take off, a huge
bright lobby and dining areas plus large and flexible conference
room space. There‘s a spa and fitness area with a Russian
banya for post-flight relaxation and the hotel runs a free shuttle
bus service between the hotel and the city centre and between
the two airport terminals. Q294 rooms (Room prices start at
3,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are
not included. PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk-

ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88,
www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off
Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and
offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St.
Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition
of the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is
modern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant
adjacent to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art
conference rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast
850Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3,

Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73
10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto
Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this
well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of
the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably
up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy
Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and
is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and
plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. Q269
rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl.
PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/
sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks
like something from another planet compared to some of the
other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the
city. It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one
detail is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to
the groovy lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper.
Themed around Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment,
subtle references to the book are everywhere from the carpet
and furniture to the Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173
rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl,
Breakfast 920Rbl. PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a,
MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70,
www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler
looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden
is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. Thick
curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture complete
the small but functional rooms. The mattresses were even
designed using NASA technology. The size difference between
standard and superior rooms is negligible, so if traveling alone
the standard will suffice. There are multiple conference rooms,
holding up to 350 people, and free wifi and laptop rentals.
Q348 rooms (Room prices start at 4,300Rbl). Extra bed
1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFLGBKDW hhhh
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 66 22, www.
trezzinipalace.com. The newly opened Trezzini Palace Hotel,
on the banks of the river Neva, is best described as a luxury,
boutique hotel in a historic setting. It was built in 1723 by
and for the famous Italian architect himself, who gave St.
Petersburg some of its most famous buildings, such as the
Peter & Paul Fortress and the red University building, not far
from the hotel on Vasilevsky Island. The rooms are decorated
with wooden flooring, marble columns and come with all the
modern amenities you would expect. The entrance, complete
with a glass lift, is quite spectacular. Some of the rooms have
beautiful views over the river and St. Isaac Cathedral. Q21
rooms (Prices start at 20,000Rbl). PTAULKW

IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.
com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an
upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of
reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and
business people. With a central location, brand spanking new
decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant
downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates.
Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed
1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast not included (480 Rbl).
PHAULGKW hhh
Red Stars Hotel C-3, Nab. reky Pryazhki 30, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 40 00, www.red-stars-hotel.ru.
A fantastically contemporary addition to the market, Red
Stars has done up their hotel with signature red dominating
the decor from doors to bathroom tiles, while the corridors
and lobby walls are adorned with graffiti courtesy of local
artists. At very reasonable rates, within 15 minutes walk to
the Mariinsky theatre or 15 minutes by transport to Nevsky
pr., this makes an ideal option for the independent traveler,
while their modest business centre will accommodate gatherings of up to 15 people. Q54 rooms (Room prices start at
3,400Rbl). PTHAULGKW hhhh

U menya zabranirovan nomer I have a reservation
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hostels
Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. With
an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan Cathedral,
Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The fourteen rooms
each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs there‘s a recently
upgraded communal kitchen, though guests also get special
offers including a welcome drink at Atelierbar a few minutes‘
walk away. The staff organise events including regular banya
trips, and can also hook guests up with walking and cycling
tours. Enter to the right of the old-fashioned red British phone
box, press 41 at the downstairs intercom. Linen included.
Q15 rooms (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW
Rainbow Hostel C-3, Ul. Dostoevskogo 36, lit.A,

8-H, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 21 10, www.
rainbow-hostel.ru. Colourful and bright hostel located in a
historic building in one of the most interesting side streets
in this fascinating area of the city. All the dorm rooms have
high ceilings which are distinctive of such historic buildings
and are painting in rainbow bright colours (hence the hostel‘s
names). Thoughtful extras include plenty of computers (with
web cams), free wifi, a large kitchen with a long table for social breakfasts, lockers and a safe and airport/train station
transfers for a small fee. Be sure to ask about city tours as
they will eagerly find you a guide to cater to any specialist
interest, whether group or individual. Q (Room prices start
at 400Rbl). PTAR6LGBW

Les Clefs’ d’Or
Back in the bad old days, a Russian
concierge would probably be considered simply as glorified security guard,
checking the comings and goings of
guests and offering little in terms of
local knowledge and professional expertise. Thankfully those days have long
since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one
taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country.
In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges
who are members of the prestigious professional association Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929.
Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden
keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand
Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly
qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special
and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to
be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can
book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend
restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help
you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very
happy to be partners with Les Clefs’ d’Or.

August - September 2013

21

Restaurants
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun
restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to
nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure
to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make
early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for
good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to
check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t
hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the
establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you
hand them for the bill.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian
Chekhov D-1, Ul. Petropavlovskaya 4, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 234 45 11. This charming dining
venue allows you to step into a Russian country house at
the beginning of the nineteenth century, just as if you were
entering into the world of author Anton Chekhov. Recreating
the traditional delicacies from recipes of that time, you can
enjoy a sumptutous meal as a piano player serenades the
room. The waitresses rustle past in their long gowns serving
up a range of carefully presented, wholly satisfying dishes.
Popular with Russians and foreigners alike, reservations are
recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAES
Cococo E-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Founded
by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the ska-punk
band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from the
Nevsky Prospect and worth the small detour. Here you can
try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as homemade fruit drinks (in
interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and Kombucha. The meals are well presented, and very wholesome,
including dishes such as chicken curry with millet porridge.
The restaurant is underground, with low ceilings and a very
cosy and relaxed atmosphere. The staff are helpful, offering
alternatives if something isn’t available, and you can request
an English version of the menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW
Koleso D-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 21 25. Step down into the warm and cosy cave
that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic
comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while
the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The
menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good
fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a
broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies
such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu.
The waitstaff are professional and know the menu well and
will be happy to guide you through some of the region‘s more
unusual dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Symbol Key
P
E
T
G
B
V

Air conditioning
Live music
Child friendly
Non-smoking areas
Outside seating
Home delivery

tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently
located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is a
small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu has
a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian dishes
and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find something
familiar and satisfying. They are very accomdating to foreign
guests, and have a bilingual menu and free wifi. The service
is among the fastest you’ll find in St. Petersburg - you’re not
going to waste fifteen minutes waiting for someone to bring
you a menu. It’s not usually very busy or loud, so it’s a good
place to relax and have a nice meal in a homey setting.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW

Mari Vanna C-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for
this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you
are eating as if at a friend’s house - and what kind of guest
would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made
the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited
in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borshch,
pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look
like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not
mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and
homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the
kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW
NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry
swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit
with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be
enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality
packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and
meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re
sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself
part of the night’s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW

Tsar D-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name
suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian
royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits
of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased
inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on
offer is first rate – no doubt Nicholas II himself would have
loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and
atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. Q
Open 08:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest.
Kitchen open till 23:30. €€€. PTALESW

Asian and Indian
Chin Chin Cafe C-2, Mytninskaya nab. 3, MSport-

ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 10 42, www.chin-chin-cafe.
ru. The toast „chin-chin“ simply means cheers, but actually
it is the Chinese term of salutation. Chin Chin Café is St.
Petersburg’s premier destination for haute Asian cuisine.
The menu features ingredients from around the world,
prepared with Asian techniques and spices. They prepare
a great Tom Yum, nice vegetable dishes and of course a
famous Peking Duck. If you are a fan of seafood they also
have a big selection of lovely fish dishes. The restaurant
features a full bar with a wide selection of wines, liquor,
beer (they also offer Singha Thai beer!) and cocktails of
course. Like the cuisine, the restaurant exhibits a homely
yet sophisticated atmosphere where guests can enjoy their
meals in an unhurried setting and with live music playing at
night. Q €€€. PTAESW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants
Chopsticks D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya

ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 38, www.
grandhoteleurope.com. The atmosphere is chic, the service
is exemplary and the interior divine. The food is exquisitely
prepared authentic Chinese but it is the atmosphere and
service which is the real drawcard. You will be so well looked
after, you may feel that a wave of relaxation washes over
you like a breeze from the South China Sea. QOpen 12:00 23:00. €€€. PTALSW

Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated
mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as
far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 19 years
now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and
have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts
too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple
and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last
dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms,
this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see
the city’s Indian community trooping in for their banquets.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW

Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.
com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole
city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style
fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original
and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious
flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are
also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan.
From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer
Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. There‘s plenty of
options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your
Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on the bill. QOpen 12:00
- 23:30. €€. PALVSW
TAO D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 983 57 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. TAO is a hip,
modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the city. We still
remember the days this square was nothing but a worn-out,
abandoned place, but it has turned into a heaven for foodies,
and we can say that the TAO restaurant is amongst the finest.
The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impressive notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the windows,
they are amazing. They have not forgotten to focus on the
food as well. We recommend trying their beef in black pepper
sauce, which is something of a small hit here, and also their
famous wasabi prawns. The bar is well-stocked, so don’t be
afraid to ask the waiters to mix you something special, as
they know what they are doing. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PALESW

Umao C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 11, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 33 15, www.umaocafe.ru.
This cosy Pan-Asian café, situated very close to St. Isaac’s
Cathedral, offers good Asian food and restful atmosphere.
Wooden furniture combined with modern elements such as
original transparent chairs fill gives it an airy, clean-cut feel.
Simplicity – that’s the right word to describe the interior of
the café – nothing distracts your attention here. The group of
ambitious young people who created this café first travelled
around Asia in order to collect the best recipes. And they
definitely succeeded – the café‘s menu offers a good variety
of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai meals combining excellent
seafood, super fresh vegetables and delicious sauces. Try
their tempting main courses or salads with mouth-watering
toppings. We‘re sure you won’t regret it! QOpen 11:00 23:00. €. PTAVGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Beer Restaurants
Baltika Brew D-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 3/5, MAdmiral-

teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 921 09 12, www.baltika-brew.
ru. Located in a monolithic example of Soviet neoclassicism and just a stone’s throw from Palace Square and the
Hermitage, there’s not much that’s “micro” about this
brew restaurant. The space is vast, with towering ceilings
and an open floorplan that could lead to some interesting
discussions with fellow beer afficianados or just make you
feel a bit lost. They feature live music at the weekends
and while everything on the menu is delicious, we recommend the Indian dishes, especially the lamb samosas and
curry. Cavernous or not, the friendly service, tasty pints
and gorgeous food will keep us coming back for more. Q
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€.
PTAESW

Bierstube C-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166
(entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their
own brewery the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good
place to start if you are looking for some homebrewed
hoppy stuff. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered
courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood
and stucco countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like
calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events,
Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights,
arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal
from the metro station means you have the chance to
walk of all the calories after. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€.
PTAULSW
Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. This British
island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the
world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot of superior
whiskys. The snacks and food are good too (the chicken wings
are our favourites) and come in huge portions. Don’t forget
to try the breakfast here - it‘s a great hangover cure and real
authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub atmosphere,
which is as close to a real British pub that you‘ll find in Russia
and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW
Gastronomic Pub Brugge C-2, Nab. Makarova 22,

MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.
inbrugge.ru. This new Gastronomic pub is the place for
people who like an authentic atmosphere and, naturally,
original cuisine! The founders of this pub were inspired by the
idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French
admire their wine, so they tried to collect the best types of
the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they
serve each kind of beer in a different glass! You can choose
from almost 50 types of traditional Belgian beer. They also
broadcast football matches, which is the perfect accompaniment to friendly meetings and the best beer. Belgian meals,
which combine the simplicity of traditional burger cooking with
the delicacy of French cuisine, are made according to the best
recipes chosen in Brussels or Antwerp. Try their duck with
stewed quinoa, mushrooms and blueberry - it‘s a real masterpiece! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALESW

30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept combined with beige
rusticism seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The
twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple
to the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall
of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food
itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative
dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas,
khachapuri and the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot
goodness that‘ll stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last
guest. €. PTALVESW

Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel.

The signature dish at the Caviar Bar & Restaurant is
the intriguingly titled Egg in Egg, which blends hen’s
eggs with sturgeon’s roe – or, more precisely, consists
of truffle-flavoured scrambled egg, topped with Ossetra
caviar and assembled elegantly in a shot glass of sea
salt. Caviar is a rare delicacy. It refers to the roe extracted
from certain types of sturgeon, fish who can live for
over 100 years and who were around 200 million years
ago with the dinosaurs. There are references to caviar
throughout history. The Persians believed it gave them
energy. Batu Khan (grandson of Genghis) is said to have
enjoyed it in the 13th century, and Shakespeare alluded
to it in ‘Hamlet’ in the 1600s. Russian caviar enjoyed a
European resurgence in the 1920s, when Sézar Ritz put it
on the menu at his famous Paris hotel, perhaps in deference to the Russians fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution.

Cafes and Coffee houses
Miracle D-2, Moshkov per. 4 (corner of Dvortsovaya
nab. 20), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 13 14. Miracle
is a unique ‘co-working’ destination, great for those looking
to sit and get down to some work in a quiet and unobtrusive
atmosphere. It costs 100Rbl an hour to hang out and you can
help yourself to as much of their complimentary teas as you
want. The delightful interior, which is entirely handmade, is as
quirky and bohemian as the owners and if you drop by in the
evenings they will be happy to let you jam with them on their
many musical instruments or get involved in creative events
such as poetry readings. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €. PEGW
Mitte cafe E-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 27, MDostoevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 416 14 16. The windows, the sills of which
also serve as seats, are flung wide open and the smell of coffee wafts out into the street. Cafe Mitte does sophisticated
hipster beautifully. The décor simple yet effective; it‘s the
people who make this place. They have a small but excellent
collection of cakes, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Come
back in the evening for a glass of wine and antipasti and a
relaxed but buzzing atmosphere. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 until last guest. €. PTGSW

Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl.,

tel. (+7) 812 932 82 17. This tiny, non-smoking coffee shop
has a huge selection of coffees that can be made for you using
various preparation methods as you wish. They also have a
large selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and three
types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked ciabatta bread.
The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its open format where
customers can observe and even chat with the cooks while
they are preparing your food. Q Open 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. €. PAGSW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 812 677 36 99, www.gigiteria.ru. The restaurant‘s
name is a play on the old word Gigit, meaning „young fellow“
or „macho“, plus the ending of your usual pizzeria, cafeteria.
The menu is not too large, but boasts all that you‘d expect
from the South Caucasian kitchen. Most importantly, although
the portions seem somewhat small, the food tastes really
good and fresh. If you bring your little ones there‘s a small
play room for them and a nanny at weekends. It is located
a short walk from the Peter & Paul fortress, just next to the
Zenit soccer stadium and inside a new business centre, but
don‘t let that put you off: once inside, it‘s a real treat. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com.
“Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a
traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables,
rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different
types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and
filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it`s a
Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is
a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts
feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy.
Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

Freeman‘s D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 312 05 40, www.freemans.su. They say good things
come in small packages, and this certainly is the case at this
fine-dining restaurant near Kazan Cathedral. Freeman‘s serves
interesting flavour combinations (try the scallops with chocolate
and hazelnut) with a touch of finesse. The portion sizes are small,
though, so go with the intention of getting at least two courses.
The restaurant is located opposite a pole dancing club and consequently the table in the window is always reserved; however
the restaurant itself feels very classy. Ask to sit downstairs for a
cosier atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Fine dining
Astoria Café D-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39,

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.
thehotelastoria.com. Breathe history while dining at the
newly opened, freshly decorated Astoria Cafe. The hotel in
which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of
history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the
old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The
modern interior and cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and
traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed
lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their
signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is
named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue,
and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of
food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic
St. Isaac’s Cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PTALW

Sukhoe - Dry
Sladkoe - Sweet

Caviar Bar and Restaurant D-3, Grand Hotel Europe,

Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329
66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Cool marble envelops
the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel
Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as
warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant
subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also
have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many
appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place.
You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the
delicious Beef Stroganoff (made according to the recipe of
Baroness Stroganoff herself), but only after touring your way
around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka
recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. The starter,
‘Na Zdorovye’ (To Your Health) is one way to get acquainted
with some of the 50 unique vodkas they have on offer. Did we
mention their famous signature dish, the Egg in Egg (see box)
or the live light music that accompanies you throughout the
evening? Pay a visit, and present the inside cover of this issue
to receive a complimentary bottle of wine. You won’t regret
it!QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

L‘Europe D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,

MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Eating in this historic restaurant is an experience to
be savoured. The service is in a class of its own, the interiors are
stunning, especially the original art deco stained glass windows
and ceiling, and all the dishes are made with the absolute finest ingredients available. We especially recommend visiting on
Fridays, when a chamber orchestra and ballet dancers perform
Tchaikovsky, or Saturdays when there is dancing for couples. Q
Open 07:00 - 23:00. Tchaikovsky Evenings on Fridays 19:00 23:00, Jazz Evenings on Saturdays 19:30 - 23:15, Sunday Jazz
Brunch 13:00 - 16:30. €€€€. PTALEW

Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Two steps
from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines
of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the
Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms.
Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe
their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by
local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix
of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything
else you could want from the South Caucasus. Q Open 12:00
until last guest. €€. PTALVSW

European
Dekabrist C-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 2, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 921 912 18 91. This little café-bar-restaurant
near St. Isaac‘s Cathedral serves highly stylised (and highly
tasty) takes on classic dishes, very reasonably priced coffees,
and an impressive selection of freshly squeezed fruit juices.
The laid-back atmosphere and quirky interior are satisfyingly
juxtaposed with the impeccable presentation and clever
flavour combinations in the food. The menu is small, just a
single A4 sheet, but each dish on the menu has been clearly
thought out and we found ourselves gaping not only at our
own plates, but everyone else’s! And another plus: they serve
Floris Chocolate beer. Definitely worth a try if you haven‘t
already. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. €. PASW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

(+7) 812 240 24 96, www.arka.spb.ru. When you walk
into Arka you leave all the dirt and noise of city life behind you.
The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a
chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about
life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection
of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with
friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out
drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are
meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom
cream soup. The prices are reasonable compared to similar
high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good
impression. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAESW

Buddha-Bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra

Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.
ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand
in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London,
Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the
A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the
finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia
with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with
French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and
ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic,
Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and
fans of pan-Asian cuisine. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW

Funky Kitchen C-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 88, MPetrograds-

miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr.
6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.
wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in Russia from
multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. By combining
haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly
into the surrounds of what is now one of Russia‘s hippest
hotels. Service is perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as
glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with
local and European dishes, all given the finest French touches
by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. Q
Open 07:00 - 24:00 (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 18:00, dinner 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW
Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812

703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they
come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration
did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful
as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are
being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The
menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles,
black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian
recipes from a bygone era. Booking is recommended. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW

Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15,

MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. A conceptual menu offers the unique
treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which are related
to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible from the lofty
terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky prospekt
and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu gives the history of
the dish as well as the site, creating a meal for both body and
mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, fish and game in
this royal parlour. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 08 80, www.fun-ki.com. Funky
Kitchen is a new format of restaurant with an open kitchen,
so that customers can watch the cooking process. The
menu includes the latest food trends, including farm and eco
products, vegetarian items, and Asian and Italian cuisine. The
creators have also developed a ‘Balls Menu’, which is a trend
that originally began in popular delicatessens in New York
and London. Funky balls are a self-sufficient food: vegetarian
balls of quinoa and avocado, or balls of salmon teriyaki – the
imagination of the chef is unlimited. There is also an original
bar list with signature cocktails. The interior of the restaurant
was designed in trendy industrial vintage. Q Open 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. €. PAESW

Koryushka D-2, Peter and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90 10, www.ginzaproject.ru.
Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located
in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul Fortress, a main
tourist hotspot. The location affords great views of landmarks
across the river, including the Winter Palace, and the restaurant
makes the most of this, with lots of windows, and terraces,
giving a spacious feel. The staff are helpful, and although the
menu features fish dishes, there is also shashlik and salads on
offer, as well as a good range of drinks. It is a nice restaurant
to sit and enjoy the view after visiting this historic area of the
city.Q Open 11:00 until last guest. €€. PTAESW
Opencafe Shater D-3, Italyanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 943 32 00, www.opencafeshater.ru. Shater
is the Russian for tent, but this is definitely more of a pavilion.
Under gauzy white curtains, couches complete with throw
blankets and fresh flowers host the jet-set of St. Petersburg
in all their garden party finery, and the staff is everything they
should be - attentive and discreet, but very friendly. There
are top guest DJs and live acts, and sumptuous traditional
dishes with eclectic twists throughout the menu from fusion
starters to unique cocktails.Q Open 08:00 - 06:00. €€.
PTALESW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova
43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Having opened its doors in late October,
Romeo’s fills a void in one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful
neighborhoods. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of
new hotels, Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and
reasonably priced Italian food in the city (one is usually easy
to find, but not both). The décor and atmosphere are relaxed,
inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their
guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration
(a children’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant,
there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there
is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and
mains. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Soup Wine D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel.

(+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Five tables with bar
stools are all you will find in this sleek and agreeable diner.
The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple
yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a selection of
fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads which come in
bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the size and how easy
it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it
is definitely advised to book ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
€. PAGSW

Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie.
ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimalist
interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a
rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse
in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well
known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the
menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring
traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef,
as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet
and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for
guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open
11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €. PASW
Zig Zag D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel.

(+7) 812 314 34 00. It’s not exactly easy to find, but once you
do – you can’t help but stay to enjoy what is on offer. Entering
the space feels like you’ve travelled in time machine back to the
1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals with so cold
American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents such as smoked
then grilled salmon, gin-cream sauces, pickled beet-root or even
any pickles that they produce themselves. All these things are
nicely introduced with the burgers or finger foods, such as deviled
eggs or fried green beans which are perfect for sharing with a
group of friends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW

Italian
Gusto F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. A classy and hip little
place where local businessmen and gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food and good wines. In fact,
many of the patrons seem to just sit down and are immediately
served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes
from the chef without a word being spoken to the waiters. It‘s
that kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks
basic but all the dishes are complex mouth-watering masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be
sure to order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked,
in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every
last drop of sauce. Be sure to save some space for one of the
homemade desserts if possible. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALEBSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

29

30

Restaurants

Italy C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7)

812 900 63 33, www.italy-cafe.ru. The chef spent six years
in Italy, learning the secrets of Italian cooking - and it is felt in
every dish. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual diner
as you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy of the
open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes of pizza and
pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries or grilled fish and
meat. Wash it all down with their sublime homestyle lemonade.
Downstairs is the Dolci Italy bakery where, if you‘ve made the
mistake of coming on an empty stomach or simply want to top
off a meal you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot
coffee or tea. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW

Jamie‘s Italian D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. One of the world’s most popular
chefs, Englishman Jamie Oliver has opened Jamie’s Italian,
his first restaurant in St. Petersburg. Admirers of the legendary chef should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional
Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor
Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and
farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes, and the
rustic bread is made according to original recipes, and is
baked in special ovens. Note the daily specials – every day
at Jamie’s Italian they cook something new with seasonal
ingredients. The wine list is mainly Italian wines, and almost
any wine is available by the glass. Lovers of the Italian festive
atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in
mind – it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters, and
people are hard at work in the open kitchen. Even the design
of the restaurant resembles a real trattoria – the room feels
spacious, light and airy, thanks to its high ceilings, something
which is unusual for restaurants north of the capital. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Kvass
Mmmm, what could be nicer
than a fermented rye bread
drink on a hot day?
Whether it sounds appealing
or not kvass, a traditional
Russian soft drink, is the
taste of Russian summer.
Once the hot months arrive
you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this traditional soft drink parked on street
corners throughout the city.
Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is
an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love
it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this
traditionally homemade drink is now available in supermarkets under brand names such as Klassik and
Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into
your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made
with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with
some cold kvass.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants
Rossi’s D-3, Grand Hotel Europe, ul. Mikhailovskaya
1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 37, www.
grandhoteleurope.com. If you need to discuss delicate
matters with your (business) partner and you want to sit in
a luxurious place resembling a small Mediterranean castle
with an excellent view to the street, then head to Rossi’s.
Their Italian chef Giuseppe D’Agostino really knows his stuff
and offers dishes from all over the country, from the spices
of the Neapolitan region that he hails from to gnocci from the
north. Service is impeccable, the wine list likewise and each
generous portion of delicate but hearty pastas, antipastas
and the like will leave you in gastronomic heaven. Be sure to
try any of the specially prepared carpaccios, they are divine.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALEW
Testo D-3, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)

812 315 64 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Pizza and
pasta are what they do here in this novelty little basement
bar, named after the Russian word for dough. They make
their own pasta, changing the menu daily and serve up the
pizza with tasty Italian style thin crusts and freshly grated
parmesan. The grey and red interior and relaxed atmosphere
makes it perfect for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a
snack. Beers are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW

Vasilievsky Island
Vasilevsky Island is one of the many islands which make
up St Petersburg, and is situated across the river from the
Winter Palace. Peter the Great envisioned the island as the
centre of the city, and therefore it makes up a large part of
the historic centre. Two of the city’s famous bridges, Palace
Bridge and Blagoveshchensky Bridge, connect the island to
the mainland. Two metro stations on Line 3 serve the island:
Vasileostrovskaya and Primorskaya.
The island is known for the Strelka (arrow) spit, which features
famous landmarks, including the Old St Petersburg Stock
Exchange, and two Rostral columns. It also features the city’s
narrowest street, named after the famous artists Ilya Repin.
However, there is more to the island; for example the former
palace of Peter II, principal buildings of St Petersburg State
University, the Erarta Contemporary Art Museum (the first of
its kind in the city), as well as many museums, such as the
Kunstkamera, and parks. The southern and eastern parts
of the island are older, with buildings dating from the 18th
Century, including some of the oldest in the city, whereas
the western side was developed later, and consists of Soviet
apartment blocks.

Lemonade E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 946 82 75, www.vk.com/lemonaderoof. Lemonade
is a quaint roof terrace bar which is a little hard to find, but
definitely worth the search. You pay for how long you spend
there (2,5Rbl a minute) rather than what you drink or eat, so
feel free to try all of their flavours of lemonade – the cream
soda is especially good – biscuits, fruit, and help yourself to
sweets! Although there are gazebos to provide shelter, and
blankets are provided should it get cold, a sunny afternoon
is best to fully enjoy this relaxing place – a hidden gem in the
city. They also offer vegan food, and hold live music evenings.
Check out their VK page www.vk.com/lemonaderoof for more
information and see their upcoming events! Q €. PEW

Ukrop E-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. This quaint vegetarian cafe
is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that won’t break
the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can
order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second
floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the
windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing
atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The
friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest
and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and
raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically
inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on
each table! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTALGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileo-

strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru.
When heading to Grolle don’t expect it to resemble your
usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city
that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is
definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an
excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and
a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh
shashlik and the like. The huge windows give you a nice view
of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a
convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW

Vegetarian
Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms
filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic
titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is
worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a
variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection
of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people
though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to
drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka,
while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30),
you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the
price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW

Tony’s Kitchen A-3, Shopping Center Shkipersky Mall,
Maly pr. VO 88, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 988
80 20, www.tonykitchen.com. А joint project between wellknown local designer Mikhail Orlov and Sardinian businessman
Antonio Kastellani. The restaurant is named in Antonio’s honour
and is very spacious, laid out over two floors and 1000 square
metres. The food will, of course, mainly be Italian but with a twist:
there will be sushi, rolls, Thai soups, and pork ribs, in addition to
the homemade pastas, pizzas, risotto and seafood. Q Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTASW

Restaurants on Vasilievsky Island
Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya,
tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This
yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the
spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St.
Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian
tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St.
Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined
to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right,
although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian
dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given those a try,
but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to
the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
Churchkhela A-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 33, MPrimorskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 329 06 87, www.ginzaproject.ru. Churchkhela, a Georgian/Caucasian restaurant, is located near
Primorskaya metro station, on the 2nd floor of a building
above a mobile phone shop. There is a big sign so it‘s not hard
to find. The restaurant is welcoming, and our waitress was
helpful, supplying an English menu and recommending dishes.
They have a great range of homemade lemonade, and tasty
meals and desserts (the baklava cake is very good), as well
as a business lunch menu. The food is prepared in an open
kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Overall
the restaurant is very inviting, with accommodating staff, and
somewhere to return to! A welcome addition to this part of
the city. Q Open 11:00 until last quest. €€. PTASW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

31

32

nightlife

Restaurants
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink
and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz
halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music
scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique
performances and eccentric people everywhere!

Bars and Pubs
Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel.
(+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they’ve
managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this
Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough
wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and
photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive
their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city.
Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious
pub grub and you may find you’ve spent everything in your wallet
and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering,
haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends,
as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW

Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds
of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve
picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top
terraces and bars.

Up on the roof
Due to strict planning laws in St. Petersburg you will never
find yourself towering over the city from great skyscrapers
(which for the architectural beauty of the city is a good thing),
although there are a number of good places where you can
enjoy rooftop views and the unbridled sunshine that usually
comes with them. Sleek, discreet and more than a little
snobby, Mansarda’s large roof terrace has a candid view
of the nearby St. Isaac’s Cathedral and stays open late for
sunset cocktails. Over the street at the 5-star St. Petersburg
Renaissance Baltic hotel, they also have a great view over
the Cathedral’s golden dome from their 6th Floor Terrace.
For fine dining up on the roof, the gorgeous roof top restaurant
of the Taleon Imperial Hotel - Victoria - is a top spot whilst
W Hotel’s miXup bar up on the roof adjacent to St. Isaac’s

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Cathedral is the place for the city’s glitterati. Another great
option for roof-top dining with a view on, among others, the
Hermitage you can experience at Bellevue Brasserie, on the
top floor of the Kempinski Moika 22 hotel. You’ll feel like you
own the city (see picture above!).
Over on the Petrograd Side (PS) next to the football stadium,
Italian restaurant Makaronniki does a fine line in relaxed
rooftop eating and drinking - it’s so relaxed in fact that they
even have some sun loungers set up for young ladies who
want to top up their tan. The upmarket Nevsky Centre shopping mall, has a roof terrace restaurant called Moskva which
has great birds eye views of Nevsky Prospekt. Finally those
on low budgets or in search of a young artistic crowd should
head to the roof terrace on top of the Loft Project Etagi art
centre where the food and the beer is as cheap they come.

Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya
pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru.
This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from
all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a
lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too
(the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge
portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great
hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an
authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British
pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining
restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00. PALSW

James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in
a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town.
The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption
of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not
only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a
wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of
choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden
butcher’s block. Also at Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45 (metro
Petrogradskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAESW
Mollie’s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. A newly hewn
branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews lacks the oldfashioned battered and bruised bar clutter which has been
worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on Rubinsteina ulitsa.
What they are missing in history they make up for in space
however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who
drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday
and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW

Pickwick Pub E-2, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub
through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter
with the punters, there’s premiership football on the tv, real
ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is
a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete
with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique
stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap
and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho
old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun,
Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Dumskaya ulitsa (metro Nevsky prospekt) is the epicenter of St. Petersburg’s wild and grungy ‘trash bar’ scene.
What the area lacks in glamour it more than makes up for
in energy and its many tiny bars are legendary. The street
tends to be teeming at the weekends, while on weekdays
DJs also still play for hedonistic mid-week drinkers. Don’t
dress up for a night out here, you’re guaranteed to get
a drink spilled on you and come home smelling like an
ash tray. Do come with an open mind and be prepared
to meet the best and worst young characters that St.
Petersburg’s nightlife scene has to offer as you bar hop
your way down the street. Bars open at 18:00 and usually close 06:00.

Double-bar Ulitka na Sklone Dumskaya ul. 9

The only live music joint on the street, the concerts are
certainly in the depths of the underground - so far down
in fact that for some bands it may be their first and
last concert. They tend to plump for rock genres here,
although there are 2 floors so you have the choice of just
bar perching as well as head banging.

Quarenghi Ul. Lomonosova 2
You will see the entrance marked by a Clockwork Orange inspired poster. Up the crumbling stairs and into
the club proper the surrounds are so basic it looks
like a particularly decrepit squat. One room for getting
obliterated in and the other breeze-blocked room is for
dancing to what sometimes is some horrendous techno
and others 80s disco.
Poison Ul. Lomonosova 2
Only the genius woman who came up with the original
Dacha bar could have brought such a fantastic new idea
to the area. Friendly and addictive, Poison stretches the
karaoke genre into something fun and communal as
opposed to the usual narcissistic cheese you often find.
During the week the booths and bar seating also make
a good place for a quiet chat or late night sing along
(depending on your mood). The songlist is stridently
British and American rock and retro (no Soviet chanson
here) and anyone can get up and sing for free so long as
the host agrees to play their tune.
Chert Pobery Ul. Lomonosova 2

A Soviet themed bar where only the music is taken from
the modern era. The décor is all Lenin busts and hammers
and sickles, but the clientele are the usual quirky mix of
the local artistic community and drunken students. One
room for lounging and a second dancing area where the
usual indie hits reign, along with the occasional smattering of 60s soul.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Nightlife
Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel.

(+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy
Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmosphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes
dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after
their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of
Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable
evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on
Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session.
The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3
big screens, including English Premiership football, American
NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00. PAESW

Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This
stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky
Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is
why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big
screen for live football and other sports matches. In some
ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find
dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them
having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW
The Office Pub D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish
pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and
tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide
selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian
cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one
of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing
overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW

William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss-

taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass.
ru. Another local homage to Russia’s love affair with British
culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes
with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs
to lean back in with a pipe and there’s also even a bright red
room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ in the sprawling area
upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu,
alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a
perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q
Open 24hrs. PAESW

(+7) 812 998 12 90, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey,
rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the
hectic Dumskaya ‘bar street’, has a bit of squat feel to it
but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors
to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling concrete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have
become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts
a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too
‘young’ for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face
control but given the proximity of so many other bars you
can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later
to see how things are swinging. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat,
Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PEW

Borodabar D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This hole-in-thewall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the
atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people
and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be
amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects
the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and
exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items
of cheap furniture. Q Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW
Cafe-Bar Produkty E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Produkty’s owner
apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall
sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary
and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really
shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture
so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake
spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the
decoration. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW
Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named after the
youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement
bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are
here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories.
They’re smoking Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet
to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PASW

Clubs
Avrora E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel.

(+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Set in supposedly
the site of the first disco in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad in
the 1970s), Avrora has recently been taken over by Yaroslav
Pomogaykin of Jagger Club fame. It bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with
a bowl-shaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during
concerts and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King,
which features smaller concerts and other events. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. PLEW

Barrel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. This slick black
and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one
that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are
good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (‘the
screwdriver’) that you may get served in the average bar,
although they take a long time to arrive. There’s also an
elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit
of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur
stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs
in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. Free
karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the
weekend. Q Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00,
Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW

Estrada D-3, Sadovaya ul. 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)

812 931 51 01, www.estradaclub.ru. Located in the heart
of the city, the Estrada club will appeal to lovers of quality
relaxation, good food and original theme parties. The club is
divided into several zones, each of which is under a different
pricing policy. There is a spacious dance floor, a wide bar for
those who like noisy fun, meeting new people, and chatting,
tables, sofas, and darkened corridors for romantic escape
and friendly conversations. If you visit, you will feel at ease
and relaxed. Some of the best DJs in the city are here. Q
Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PAESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Fever karaoke bar D-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 19,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 971 18 88, www.
karaokebarfever.ru. The sound system is quality, the stage
is front and centre without being obstrusive and the song
list is truly staggering in it’s length and breadth. Friendly,
professional staff is a bonus and the couches offered an uber
plush vantage point from which to view the enthusiastic, if
less than talented, take to the mike. It offers 2 private VIP
rooms, which can be accessed by fingerprint, as well as
two lounge areas for a fun company where you can smoke
hookah, drink good wine and just eat and talk. Q Open
20:00 - 06:00. PALEW
Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are
two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river.
Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with
midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet
leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and
dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and
bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make
sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin.
QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr.,
www.radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy
modern décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with
the dance floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one
another so you can rock, drink and relax all in one place.
The crowd is a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard
and the DJs are local favorites who know how to keep
the energy up. The no house, no techno rule is in effect.
Entrance is through the archway and to the left. QOpen
18:00 - 06:00. PEW
August - September 2013

shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.
spb.ru. It’s hard to believe that this intimate, little club can
hold more than 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of
tables and standing space around the bar, for the people
who forget to book a table. It’s popular with the city’s artsy
scene and with people who know their jazz. It has original
performances by top-notch musicians playing just about
any thing from experimental jazz, to acid jazz to blues.
QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW

Jimi Hendrix Blues Club E-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMaya-

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.
ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other
instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it
feels as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he’s probably a frequent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian
and Georgian food. If you wonder why it takes so long before
you get your order: it’s all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, the joint is always packed. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAE

The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya. If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat.
The Hat boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types of bourbon. However, if you aren’t a huge whiskey
fan, the expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you
desire. The bar is designed to look like an old-time American
bar that you would see in classic Hollywood road movies.
There is live music everyday and when the live music stops,
jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz
rhythms are accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses
and lively chatter, which creates a vibrant atmosphere that
is sure to brighten anyone’s mood. QOpen 17:00 until last
guest. PEW

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Guests are seated around
a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots
of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash
of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal
brick walls and the odd splash of colour with the trendy
good-looking staff an added feature. Tsvetochki attracts a
young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback
fashion so leave your bling at home. Q Open 09:00 - 05:00.
PABW

Zing Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, MDostoevskaya.

Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked
soundtrack are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail
bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much
so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be
experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly innovative move
it’s all non-smoking and there’s little in the way of face control.
The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections
which also includes their own Russian influenced creations.
QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Tyomnoe – Dark
Svetloe – Light (for beer)

Live Music Clubs
St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and
there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from
where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian
bands. For the better known names you should head
to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt,
Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in
particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple
stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring
club acts and established local groups.
If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number
of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and
the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring
Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie
and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada
are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands.
Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru
Club A2 B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm
Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.
cosmonavt.su
Club Zal Ozhidaniya Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118,
MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.
clubzal.com.
Dada С-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7)
921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru
Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru
GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru

Cocktail bars
Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya,

tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights
this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip
a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron.
At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to
glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their
cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer,
just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW

Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky

pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls
in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls
in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City.
The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good.
With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails
on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend.
Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteis-

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The
English meaning of grafin is “carafe” which is fitting since
the place is decorated with them. With its trendy interior,
attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that
Grafin caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual
street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable
among all the men in suits. Grafin offers a huge cocktail
menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A
dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream
of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in
various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully
decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight
for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely
acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of
icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially
strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century.
Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble
Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Y
Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history
of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,

Photo by Malvina Markina
St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the
most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city
has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which
remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo-

nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812
274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great,
in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St.
Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the
cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest
composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach
the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00
- 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity
Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab.

kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315
16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with
richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the
European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s
most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward
name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander
II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘
because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics,
each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated
in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl.

Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This
cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one
of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to
house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome
is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96
columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you
to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and
18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should
be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab.

3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.
kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its
strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was
founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the
Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography.
It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the
cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix
of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected
on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its
severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the
crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of
every month. Admission 150-250Rbl.

miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.
ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the
world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is
adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by
Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858
the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was
born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we
recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view
is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed
of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are
sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade
150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y
03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created
the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in
1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported
from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of
people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to
‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what
you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display
of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle,
each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free.

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora.
org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd
Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is
because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have
been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was
sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and,
in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the
Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union,
mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact,
a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q
Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices
close one hour before the official closing
time. Also remember most museums ask
you to buy an extra photography ticket if you
would like to take photos or videos
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance
from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The
director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the
Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but
it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million
works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress.
Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to
avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is
probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if
you want to see the main state rooms and some of the
most popular artworks.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd-

Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314

Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab.,

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the
famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along
with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side
views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s
House museum which examines the history of the city and
the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain
Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However,
the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space
Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays
coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing
and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the
best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own
risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral open
10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, closed
Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 280Rbl
(ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Y

Hermitage

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

The museum‘s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance
shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos
and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room
filled with works by the old master is another must as
are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like
Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang
are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large
selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art.
The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east.There is also a number
of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right
of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum.
The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the
throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock
room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries,
parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor
(in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in
different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you
enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen
10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7)
812 571 84 46.

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sightseeing
Museum of the History of the Russian Political

Churches and Monasteries

Museums

Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya,

Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, MV-

tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When
a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the
Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma,
she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot
she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign looking, white and red striped building was finished. Across from
the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served
as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye
Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his
murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times
but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace
currently houses an elderly person‘s home. Q Open 09:00
- 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services
10:00, 18:00.

Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs-

ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.
ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and Kuznechny
streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted-museum. It is
filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and Antarctic expeditions,
ship models, photos, stuffed models of animals and artifacts.
Above the displays hang a series of beautiful paintings of snowy
landscapes, seascapes, and scenes of expedition sites and
native wildlife. The first floor is dedicated to the Arctic while the
upper level (up several hidden flights of stairs at the entrance)
is all about the Antarctic. Though the signs are in Russian, the
quirky museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in the topic
and seeing stuffed penguins, polar bears and walruses. The
special treat is a dated but effective simulation of the northern
lights. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl.

kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The
view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth
the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once
the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young
noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition
hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the
nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the
October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts
200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.

St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3,
MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and
white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In
the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter,
which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the
patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the
sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low
ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates
on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell
tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00,
18:00. Admission free.

Maze of Fear and Mirror Maze D-3, Nevsky pr. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 947 83 36. In the centre of the
northern capital lies the scariest attraction in the world – the
Maze of Fear. This is a labyrinth of narrow corridors, filled with
frightening characters, dead bodies covered in blood, and the
screams of horror from other people in the maze around you,
all designed to shock and terrify. You have to find your way out
of the catacombs and dark dungeons of Nevsky Prospekt, all
in complete darkness – no torches or mobile phone lights allowed! A warning - don’t go in by yourself! Prepare to be alone
with your fears - will you be able to find your way out? There is
also a Mirror Maze, which you must find your way out of among
a huge number of your own reflections! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Admission Maze of Fear 300Rbl, Mirror
Maze 200Rbl.
MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr.

43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03
94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real
museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread
out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic
engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the
Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters.
There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing
soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational
programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl.

Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhno-

logichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although
in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still
manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue
domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a
(clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people
simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made
of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war
in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00,
Fri - Sun 17:00.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Police C-2, Admiraltesky pr. 6/2, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 312 27 42, www.polithistory.ru. The State
Museum of the Political History of Russia is the successor
to the Revolution Museum. It is housed in two historic
buildings of the modern era: the mansions of the ballerina
M. Kshesinskaya, and baron V. Brandt. The new exhibition
‘Man and Power in Russia in the XIX-XXI Centuries’ is devoted to the relationship between man and the state at the
crucial moments in the history of the country. The period
of the revolution between 1917 and 1922 is presented in
the exhibition ‘February of 1917. The Breakdown of the
Monarchy’, as well as the memorial rooms ‘Lenin’s Study’
and ‘Room of the Secretariat of the Central Committee of
Bolshevik Party in 1917’. The exhibition ‘The Soviet Epoch:
Between Utopia and Reality’ reveals images of that time
– Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev – presented in documents, things, and reconstructed interiors. The exhibition
‘Matilda Kshesinskaya: Fouettes of Fate’ tells the story of
the mistress of the mansion. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Wed
10:00 - 20:00. Сlosed Thu and the last Mon of the month.
Admission 60 - 150Rbl.

Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya
4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www.
ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the
lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Russian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right
next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains
thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such
as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different
native cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission
50-350Rbl. Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.).
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

per. 5/2, M Vladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571
40 31, www.md.spb.ru.
Dostoevsk y‘s weathered
corner-apartment is a two
minute walk from the metro.
The museum is divided into
two sections: literary and
memorial (his apar tment
and belongings). The audioguide will enrich the experience and lessen confusion. Displays include newspaper
articles that inspired him and photographs of the house
where The Brothers Karamazov story is set. Also gives
fascinating biographical details about his arrest and exile.
Whether you are interested in Dostoevsky‘s brave character,
turbulent life, or amazing work, this museum is certainly the
premium place to go. On weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977
43 00. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl.
Audioguide 100-170Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people
from 1,550Rbl per group, should be booked in advance by
phone (+7) 812 571 40 31.

Pier with Lions

Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions D-2,
Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 320 08 77, www.boattrip.ru. One of the joys of St.
Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals
and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city
from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky
and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage
Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every
hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city’s
canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have
tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz
tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. QAdmission: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online
booking and discount for children, students and return
tickets. PAUTKE

Literature Museum C-2,
Nab. Makarova 4, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 05
02, www.pushkinskijdom.ru.
Known as the Pushkin House,
this museum preserves some
real literary treasures. As well
as works by Great Russian
writers Lermontov and Tolstoy,
you can find the writing-table of
the great symbolist Blok. Did
you know that the museum
holds an astounding 12,000
manuscripts by poet Pushkin?
The museum is situated on the second floor of the Institute
for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from 1,000Rbl
for 25 people group.
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St. Petersburg City Card
Where ever you see this logo
Y, it means you can get a discount or a free entrance at this
venue with the Petersburg card.
Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and
discounts to many things this city has to offer, including
museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full
list can be found on the website and in the guidebook (in
English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s also
a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (money
can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 years!
Petersburg Card can be valid for 2 days (48 hours) - 1800
rubles, 3 days (72 hours) - 2500 rubles, or 5 days (120
hours) - 3300 rubles, and begins after the first visit to
a museum or a tour. You can buy the card from the ‘City
Card’ office in St. Petersburg, via the website, or in some
hotels and Post Offices of the city (the complete list is
available on the website).

(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta
museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary
museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The
spectacularly restored five story building is separated into
two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and
the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern
art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations
on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone
interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate
curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling
across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down
old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian
contemporary movement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed
Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in for up to 25 people
3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel.

(+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square
meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red
bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half
of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky
brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell
it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you can
attend different exhibitions of European and Russian artists,
art workshops and nice parties. Getting there: on Nevsky pr.
take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya
take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q
Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl.

Tours around St. Petersburg
Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel.
The city’s founder, Peter the Great, intended the Neva
river to be the ‘main street’ of St. Petersburg, with
Petersburgers learning to punt like the Venetians in
summer, and walking or sledging on the ice in winter. To
start, there was only a single wooden bridge crossing
the Neva, and it was not until 1850, nearly 150 years
later, that the first permanent bridge was built. Now, of
course, the rivers and canals are littered with bridges –
there are 342 of them, in fact – some narrow, suited only
for pedestrians, others vast, buzzing with the sound of
vehicles, horns, shouting and revving.
The three most famous rivers in St. Petersburg are the
Neva, the Moika, and Fontanka. The Neva, at 1300-2000
feet wide and adorned with imperial architecture, is the
most impressive. The Moika is considerably smaller, but still
lined with fascinating 18th Century architecture, including
the Stroganov and Yusopov Palaces, the New Holland Arch
and the notable St Micheal’s Castle. Watch out for the Blue
Bridge, Petersburg’s widest bridge at 97.3m, which spans
the Moika at St. Isaac’s Square. Like the Neva, Fontanka
has always played an important role in the geography
of the city. Originally, the river marked the edge of the St
Petersburg, although the city has since extended far beyond
Fontanka’s banks. All three, along with the numerous other
rivers and canals of St Petersburg, have played a huge role
in the literature and art so strongly associated with the
city, and along their banks you can find the houses (many
of which are now museums) of many famous writers and
artists, including Alexander Pushkin, Anna Akhmatova and
Ivan Turgenev.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel
company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and
around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially
fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as
the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city
suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from
the 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU

Further Afield
Oranienbaum

Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but it‘s nonetheless a lovely
place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and
pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter the
Great’s best friends, started building the estate and its Grand
Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots
and built a small Chinese palace with baroque outside and
rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand Palace hasn‘t changed a
great deal over the centuries and it‘s one of the few palaces
on the outskirts of the city that wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis.

Peterhof

Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is
one of Russia‘s number one tourist attractions. It is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October, when the 147
fountains are turned on, but even so it is well worth visiting
at any other time of year.
The Great Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the
directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that
followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding another
palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of the whole
ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down
from the palace and from there the park spreads out to the
left and right along the coastline with trick fountains, pyramid
fountains, marble sculptures and other impressive stuff.

Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609,
MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburg-voyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency
offers various private and group tours and excursions all over
St. Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal
itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or
visitors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring
many of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only
works with the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who
are experienced, polite, and knowledgeable. Q TAU
Sputnik C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sputnik8.com. Those
who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just
sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night
clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service
offered by Sputnik. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers
take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas or communal apartments.
Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to give tourists a
slice of real life and show them their favourite parts of the city
which tourists might never get to see. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also
available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Strelna. Konstantinovsky Palace

Once known as Putin‘s Palace, this palace is now one of
the official Presidential residences. Historically speaking,
the Palace‘s original owners were the Romanovs; however,
after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the
public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace
are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting
rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a display
of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts from the
18th to the 20th century as well as a unique collection of fine
wines. Note you must show your passport when you enter
(this is also an official government building).

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Peterhof Must-Visits
To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in
time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power
and opulent beauty.
Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the
Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over
the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is
surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years
in the making and has been touched by German, Italian,
Russian and French architects alike. It goes without
saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed.
When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she
hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose
fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less
a building than the Hermitage.
Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to
gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome
of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome ornaments and
artworks complete the grandiose royal residence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage incurred during
the Second World War. Of particular note is the Chesme
Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to
the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to
showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob
Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles
from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the
Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial
efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing
ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a
frigate exploded in an Italian harbour while the artist sat
ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction.
The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the
monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains
and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other
shiny stuff. The design was conceived by Peter the Great
himself. The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the
Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high
jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest
in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your
friends to a round of spot the mythological heroes while
you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles
and co. All of the palace’s fountains, jets, water arches,
sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure
created by natural elevation and all of the water is from
the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A
tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade,
includes an explanation of the remarkable technology
and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of
humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table
will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.

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44

sightseeing
Getting There
Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum

Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg
on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west
of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres
east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg
proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along
the Peterhof highway.
By bus/marshrutka:
From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial
bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public
buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya
metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov
metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky
pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget
to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit
next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)).
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum
get off at the Oranienbaum station.
By train:
Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof.
These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45
minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350,
351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit
next to the fountains.
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum
get off at the Oranienbaum station.
By hydrofoil: Peterhof Express
The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admiralteiskaya nab.
2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Palace) Bridge. Seating
is airline style, with leather upholstery and more than
ample legroom. Between cabins, there is a partially open
viewing area that is as picturesque as it is windy. Toilets
available on board. See more: www.peterhof-express.ru.
The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof
where the fountains are situated.

Pushkin – Pavlovsk

Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of
St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka:
From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take
marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus
187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.
From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186,
for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.
By train:
For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you
can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371,
382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.
For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to
Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or
marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from
Kupchino metro/train station.

Pushkin

The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries,
Tsarskoe Selo or the ‚Royal Village‘ was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its other
well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In 2010
the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense
restoration works Pushkin‘s many treasures are sparkling.
Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities
abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with
quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the
sparkling Amber room of Catherine‘s Palace to the quieter
Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their final days
before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks and the literary
school museum where the poet Alexander Pushkin studied.

Pavlovsk

Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to
describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like a
world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk
Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall trees,
winding streams and endless paths scattered with classical
statues and flanked by benches make for many a secluded
spot. If you have active children who need a place to blow off
some steam, pack a picnic and make an afternoon of it. The
enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its magnificent neoclassical
interior, is a feast for the eyes. The country residence of the
Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating
history. Certainly not as grand as Peterhof, but much less
touristy, Pavlovsk is a great place to get away from it all.

or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00
- 17:00, closed Wed.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

46

shopping
Galeria
Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.

(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest
shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw
away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot
be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect
from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts
the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from
high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French
Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well.
It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie
theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants.
When with children, head to the top floor where there is
a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart
of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and
out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department
store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find
glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those
sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one
roof. There‘s also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a
supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping
centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European
products for both the budget cook and the serious gourmet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW

For a more detailed guide to all
the shopping options check our website
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.
com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Petersburg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and
exhibition spaces. In one of the authentic mansions
of Bolshoy Prospect recently opened an international
gallery YellowKorner, which presents a wide panorama
of contemporary and vintage photography worldwide.
YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that
could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift
for your loved ones. It‘s time to buy art! QOpen 11:00 21:00. PAW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Russian Souvenirs
There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring
back with you from Russia.

Matryoshka’s

Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir.
Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or
stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left
plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the
number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours
of the design.

Platok

A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These
beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either
spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around
the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter
than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky
platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from
the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very
warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole
scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

Flower Etiquette
If giving flowers to someone,
you have no need to fear.
A nice bunch of blooms is
always acceptable. That is, if
you give an odd number. Even
numbers are only for funerals
and the dead. As to what type
of flower is a good one usually
depends on the recipient. The
red rose is considered as romantic in Russia as it is in most
other countries. Take note though that due to the tradition
of only giving an odd number, there can be no dozen red
roses – just eleven. Yellow roses signify friendship. Tulips
are used to express sympathy, yet yellow tulips hint to a
hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty and chrysanthemums
undying youth and health.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Lacquer Boxes

Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian
handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and
then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian
fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters.
Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted
wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist
both sides of the lid.

Birch wood crafts

The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further
in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that
the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then
comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts
at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite
tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they
are said to be very good for your hair.

Vodka and Caviar

They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and
crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka
brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something
more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka.
Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive
foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back
more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy
caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake
and/or illegal.

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48

expat and Lifestyle

expat AND Lifestyle
International Schools/Pre-schools

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one
can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat
cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of
interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg
more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and
growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking
advantage of these connections.

Internations
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for
expats of various nationalities and their family members
with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide.
Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too.
By becoming a member you gain access to the online
social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other
expats and interact with people who may have the
same interests.
Most importantly of course InterNations also host
monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at
www.internations.org.

Religious Services
Business associations
SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business
Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky

The Expat Experience
Tell us something about
yourself.
My name is Jennes de Mol.
I was born in 1963 in the
south of the Netherlands in
Eindhoven, city of companies
like Philips and DAF. Nowadays this is an economically
thriving center of innovation,
high tech development and
Dutch design. My work at
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs brought me to places
like Moscow, Geneva, Prague, Afghanistan and now as
Consul General in St. Petersburg.
This year is the official bilateral Netherlands-Russia
year, tell us something about the highlights.
The bilateral year is well underway and has economic,
cultural and political highlights. Dutch companies show
their tradition of technological innovation. Moreover,
the Royal Netherland Navy is present with vessels. In
September we have the opening of the Willem II and
Anna Pavlovna exhibition in the State Hermitage. Anna
Pavlovna, younger sister of Tsar Alexander I, was our
queen from 1841-1849. The exhibition shows the art and
life style at the Dutch Orange court with the influences
of the Romanov dynasty. In the autumn there will be
an exhibition on Dutch architecture as of 1945-2000.

What makes St. Petersburg special for you?
St. Petersburg is the Russian cultural hotspot and
economic engine of the North West of Russia. The rich
Russian culture of the 18th and 19th centuries can be
seen and felt here. Special is that the origins of the city
are linked to my own country. In places like the Menshikov
Palace, Kunstkamera, Summer Gardens, Peterhof or Winter Palace you can see how much Peter the Great loved
Amsterdam. But the new era has also brought interesting
examples of modern re-use of industrial complexes like
Loft Project Etagi, New Holland and Skorokhod.

Clinics and Hospitals

What are you favorite spots in the city to visit in
the weekends?
The places to be for me are spots where I meet interesting people or get inspiration. New Holland, Art Center
Pushkinskaya 10, a literature cafe like Knigi I Kofe, the
summer festivals on Elagin Island, the Botanical garden
and last but not least Pavlovsk palace. I enjoy visiting
the house of the Architects and the Museum of Political
History or the Imperial Porcelain factory museum. St
Petersburg is full of relatively unknown house museums
which make history very tangible. My favorites are the
private apartments of leading figures like politician Kirov,
artist Kuindgi or academician Pavlov.

If not Moscow and St. Petersburg, what other city
would you recommend for foreigners to visit in
Russia and why?
Being outside the big cities brings you closer to Russian reality in my view. Favorite destinations are Veliky Novgorod and
the Pskov area with Pushkin Hills estate and the Pechora
monastery. I can recommend a trip to Lake Baikal with
Irkustsk and its astonishing, un-spoilt nature. Historical
places like Archangelsk or Vologda and surroundings, both
in winter and summertime, show the essence of the Russian soul and beauty of its landscape and culture.

August - September 2013

49

50

Getting Around

expat AND Lifestyle
Russian for Expats
Pervy blin komom – the first pancake is a lump
“Pervy blin komom”, its literal meaning “the first pancake
is a lump”, relates to one’s first attempt at something,
which, according to the idiom, is a certain failure. For
example, if you have just begun learning Russian, your
Russian friends might say “Ne perezhivay, pervy blin
komom”, which means that everyone makes mistakes at
the beginning whilst learning. Some say that the expression was originally “pervy blin komam”, which meant “the
first pancake for the bears”. In ancient times the bear had
a special place in Slavic cultures, which was why the bears
should have the first pancake.

tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz
is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having
opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups,
though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the
historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school
features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped
with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for
student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your
own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Lavrushka Cooking School
The Lavrushka cooking school,
located near the Admiralteyskaya metro station, offers you
the chance to explore Russian
cuisine. The courses, which last
from 1 to 3 hours, are conducted
by professional chefs, and are
available in several languages,
including English. It doesn’t matter whether or not you are
skilled at cooking, as the staff are very friendly and helpful.
You can learn to cook typical Russian dishes, including
‘pelmeni’ and ‘blini’, and the recipes will be emailed to you,
so you can recreate them at home. Once the cooking is
finished, you can sit and enjoy your meal together with your
fellow cooks in the cosy dining room. There are courses
for tourists, expats, corporate events, and parties for
children, so simply choose what you’d like to learn how to
cook, and register online. It’s very rewarding, and a great
way to experience the traditional side of Russia.

Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend
with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is
full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the
city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes
in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal
gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via
the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar
every few weeks.
The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over
Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend
might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups
anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see
www.facebook.com/fryday.saintpetersburg.

By Plane
St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most
international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34
44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including
those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1.
Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive
early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long.

Public transport and Taxis
Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public
transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight.
On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board
from the conductor or the driver.
Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window
placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.
Tickets cost 25Rbl.
Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro
lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa
or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed
period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival
station announced, followed by the name of the next stop.
One metro ride costs 28Rbl.
Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows
a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get
off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride
will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your
change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay.
Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St.
Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners,
travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it
is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain
protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out
your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance
(‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then
hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using
large denominations and asking for change.
Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77,
www.taxi068.ru
Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000,
www.taxi7000000.ru

Buying Tickets
If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows
in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are
not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be
surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always
buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience.
You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in
Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station.
The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget
to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you
passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation.

Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask
anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to
the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is
no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi
company and order transport to the airport in advance
you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9.
Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses
N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky)
K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min
(19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go
from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya
Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the
international and domestic terminals with the city
centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and
K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro
stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and
ends at Vladimirskaya.

This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation.
For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map,
plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2013

53

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a name? It was only in the 1760s that Nevsky
Prospekt got its current name. With Peter the Great still
alive it was known as the Big Prospekt, after his death it
became Nevsky Prospekt. The communists decided to
name the famous thoroughfare after the revolution: the
25th of October Avenue. This last name luckily never caught
on and they had to stick with the Nevsky moniker instead.

56

Russia

Moscow
History

Introduction
Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer
size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a
close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to
the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country
has much more to offer.
Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres
large with a population of 143 million and a territory that
encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one
naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice
of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes
without saying that while many of the most exciting events
in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often
lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia.
Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural
ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic
landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of
enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes,
and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from
the hustle and bustle of city life.
Although the level of development in provincial towns is still
not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the
adventure. It is here that one can experience how average
Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of
their country. Summer is a wondrous time to make a visit the
sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays
guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and
celebrations on offer.
In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations
within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make
excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial
Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while
others are full weekend trips.
We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete
without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the
wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient
Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod.
It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first
enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of
cities can be found on our website.
In this issue we have selected Moscow, plus six provincial
cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The
other cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, where
“East meets West”, Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early
trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin
and nearby Staraya Russa, an old town that served as
a summer getaway for Russian writer Dostoevsky. Two
important and old cities on the mighty river Volga you
can read about here are Samara and Yaroslavl. Last, but
certainly not least, we included Sochi, the host city of the
Winter Olympics of 2014.
In Moscow please look for our print guide in hotels or
check us out online and download our free iPhone app.
at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/moscow

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus
migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting
to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet.
10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan
invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462.
17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the
Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian
territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar.
1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which
becomes the new Russian capital in 1712
1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a
program of legislative and educational reform.
1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil.
1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs.
1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food
shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is
quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German.
1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of
Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918.
Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into
a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and
after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad.
1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts
until 1941.
1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and
the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy
losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in
1943. Germany surrenders in 1945.
1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people
died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines.
In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him.
1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space.
1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer
Olympics.
1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the
Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness).
1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis
and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country.
1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more
stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports.
2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President
of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and
business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and
ambitious from across the country and further afield. In
all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and
vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city
of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to
Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s
not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural
experience not to be missed.

Red Square
The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red
Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter
the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin,
not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests
of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of
every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud
at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral
topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other
end you will find the State History museum which details
the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will
delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades
of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice
rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying
the magnificent view.

The Kremlin
Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin
nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles,
ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov
imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside
the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which
is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the
15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower.

Getting There
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not
making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can
also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to
Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at
one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre.

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Moscow

Veliky Novgorod
Russian Art
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous
‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as
it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The
Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings
about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov
covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, beginning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with
the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s
favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky
Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collection which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era
as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and
conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.

Luxury Trains to Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The
cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night
and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being
shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already
been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and
all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you!
Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as
bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles
for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast
and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and
if at any moment during the trip you experience some
problems you can call the train attendant from the
comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you
want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning,
it’s worth the money.
Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya)
at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.
megapolis-te.ru

Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by
Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky
and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow
was also the home of one of the greatest theatre directors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the
theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet,
dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name
in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been
spectacularly renovated.

Enjoy the great outdoors
Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and
during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports
wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers
along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park,
for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy
Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled
wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic
Patriarch’s Ponds.

Veliky Novgorod
Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted
as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very
small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St.
Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian
culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This
is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the
town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the
blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky
Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its
famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and
monasteries in the region to be explored.

If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the
Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the
Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.

Ilmen lake

It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit
the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and
the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get
there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery.
The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the
monastery is free.

Sightseeing
Veliky Novgorod Kremlin

The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which
is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first
records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044,
although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made
of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were
completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous
ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole
of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside
the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the
Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive
St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the
huge Millennium of Russia monument.

Getting There
By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky
Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s
Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart
at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From
Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at
07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05,
18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky
station).
By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses

(journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus
station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg
run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours
and costs 370Rbl.

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VELIKY NOVGOROD

Staraya Russa
Restaurants and Cafes

Dostoevsky himself was deeply religious and the church
he attended here, the Grigoryevsky church, is just one of
a number of charming medieval churches of all shapes
and colours that the town can boast. The town’s SpasoPreobrazhensky Monastery also has a few fine examples
of small wooden-domed churches. The surrounding countryside, so far removed from busy St Petersburg, moved
Dostoevsky - he gives Ivan Karamazov the line, “I love the
sticky leaves in spring, the blue sky - that’s all it is. It’s not
a matter of intellect or logic, it’s loving with one’s inside,
with one’s stomach”.

Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the

theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar.
ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club
concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s
windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the
internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails
and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites.
The food is not the best you’ll eat in Novgorod but if you’re
searching for a safe Friday night experience with young
upwardly mobile locals it’s probably a reliable place. Q
Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€.
PTALESW

Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel.

(+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve
been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s
just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options
in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area
with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in
and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you
choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of
salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW

Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636

Hotels
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2,
tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the
Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms
are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and
the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only
good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art
nightclub‘. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor
pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas.
Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children‘s
entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus
No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra
bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh
Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162

307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t
come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this
is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite
and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither
touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they
also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent
fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably
need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient
for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
€€. PTALEBSW

Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)

8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what
looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served
excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic
looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very
popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma
a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such
as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various
herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort
for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the
Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding
countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
€. PTAULEGBSW

225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short
sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the
most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the
Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared
for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place
has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a
small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of
the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at
2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh

Old Russian legend tells us of two brothers Rus and Sloven,
who, four millennia ago, set off from the Black Sea to found a
new homeland; Sloven created Veliky Novgorod, whilst Rus’s
town on the other side of Lake Ilmen went on to become
Staraya Russa. The town, of course, isn’t quite that old, having been founded somewhere around the 10th century, but
is nonetheless one of Russia’s oldest cities.
Its architecture reflects its heydays as a major player in the
salt trade and wealthy city of the Novgorod Republic, and
again as a fashionable 19th century spa resort. In tune with
urbanisation in general, the town’s population is shrinking; but
this is a receding tide that Staraya Russa has seen more than
once before and one that may yet turn, whilst in the meantime
the town is a sleepy slice of Russia’s history.
It has always attracted guests from far and wide. Sometimes
these were less than welcome visitors, in the form of Swedish
armies, marauding gangs in the Time of Troubles before the
Romanovs took power, or Hitler’s forces who nearly razed
the city to the ground. In other more peaceful times of the
the city these were aristocrats come to drink the town’s
rejuvenating spring water.
Today, it draws in visitors who seek to trace the footsteps of
one of Russia’s greatest writers, Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky. On the recommendation of friends he and his wife
chose Staraya Russa as the spot for their summer dacha.
Here, Dostoevsky could escape the suffocating streets of
Petersburg and the temptation to gamble, an addiction that
had drained his finances and health.
Both of them soon fell in love with the spot: the quiet streets, rivers and meadows gave the writer the space he needed to write,
whilst the town’s buildings and characters served as inspiration. His masterpiece The Brothers Karamazov was written in
their small house here and set in an almost identical fictional
town. On the opposite bank from the Dostoevskys’ house is
a building known as ‘Grushenka’s House’, so named after the
character in the Brothers Karamazov, for whom the house’s
former occupant Agrippina Menshova supposedly served as a
prototype. Though today it is still a private house, postmen will
still bring here envelopes addressed to ‘Grushenka’s House’.

Dostoevsky House Museum in Staraya Russa

Staraya Russa, nab. Dostoevskogo 42, tel. (+7) 816
525 14 77, www.novgorodmuseum.ru. This modest
green and white wooden building stands on the riverbank
and was the first house Dostoevsky himself ever bought.
The museum has restored and preserved the Dostoevskys‘
dacha as it once was, with the ‚old fashioned, heavy red
wood furniture and the surroundings‘ in which they, in Anna
Dostoevskaya‘s words, ‚lived so warmly and cosily‘, along
with many of the great writer‘s books, photographs and
other possessions.

Polist Hotel Staraya Russa, ul. Engelsa 20, tel. (+7)

81652 375 47, www.polist-tour.ru. This hotel in Staraya
Russa is named after one of the town‘s three rivers. This
Western-standard hotel is generally considered to be the
best in town. Its restaurant is also among the best in Staraya
Russa. Though nothing fancy to look at from the outside, it
looks out onto the city‘s historical centre, which is probably
the way round you‘d rather have it. Each room has all mod
cons and, shiny frilly bedsheets aside, is fully up to modern
standards and well shot of any Soviet hangover. Q47 rooms
(Room prices start at 1,400Rbl). PTAKSwW

Getting There
From St. Petersburg:

There are numerous buses (journey takes 5.5 hours)
a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan.
36 (metro Baltiskaya) at 14:30 and 16:30 (daily) and at
08:45 (only Fri, Sat, Sun).
From Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) you can
take a nighttrain, it departs at 00:40 and arrives to
Staraya Russa at 10:02.

Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office
The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with
advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They
have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that
you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central
office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Sightseeing

From Veliky Novgorod:

There are numerous buses a day leaving from the central
bus station at Oktyabrskaya ul. 1 (trip takes 2 hours).

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Samara

Yaroslavl
Yaroslavl
Sitting at the point where the mighty Volga river meets the
smaller Kotorsol, Yaroslavl is a prosperous town dating
back to 1010, which is rightly often referred to as the
capital of the Golden Ring. Famed for its beautiful river side
promenade, medieval churches and frescoes Yaroslavl
boasts a UNESCO protected city centre, filled with 18th and
19th Century Russian architecture, such as huge, ancient
gates and towers. In addition to its pristine architectural
sights, Yaroslavl also has a fine art museum and a wealth
of historic treasures on show in the main monastery. Perfect
for a relaxing city break, Yaroslavl can easily be seen in a
weekend, while if you have an extra day or two it’s a good
starting point for a trip to the picturesque river ports of
Kostroma and Plyos, which are just a 1,5hr bus ride away.

Samara

Sightseeing

Samara is one of Russia’s forgotten gems, often overlooked by
westerners. Located on the Volga River, it has been a critical
trade route and strategic location throughout history and played
a crucial role in modern Russia. It was the home of famous
Russian figures such as the writer Maxim Gorky, revolutionary
leader Vladimir Lenin and space pioneer Sergey Korolev.
During World War II, many factories and industries were
evacuated to Samara, which served as the second capital
to the besieged Soviet Union, and it became a centre for
industry and culture. Consequently, many designs for late
model World War II Soviet aircraft were developed in Samara,
as was the Soviet Union’s space rocket research programme
headed by Sergey Korolev. Samara’s aerospace industry is
one of the most advanced in the world.
For much of the Cold War, Samara was a closed city, isolated
from Western influences, and because of that, it offers a
different insight into Russian culture and society. It also became
the refuge for Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean, who were
part of the infamous “Cambridge Five” spy ring that provided
information to the Soviet government during World War II.
Samara is a modern and developed Russian city. Museums,
modern art galleries and restaurants offer tourists a startling
array of culture, history and experience. The night life is
dynamic, playing music from classic rock to contemporary pop.

Alabin Historical Museum Leninskaya ul. 142, tel.

Hotels
Ibis Samara Novo-Sadovaya ul. 160D, bldg. 3, MRos-

siyskaya, tel. (+7) 846 339 68 50, www.ibishotel.
com. A short walk through a park from the banks of the
impressive Volga River will bring you to this Ibis Hotel. Not
far from the city centre, it is an ideal place to start exploring
Samara, while being assured of the well-known service and
quality of this Accor hotel. Throughout the hotel you can use
free Wi-Fi, and all rooms have air conditioning. This is a very
welcome addition to Samara. Q304 rooms (Room prices
start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (380Rbl)
not included. PTHA6LGKW

Getting There
By Train: There are 2 trains a day travelling to Samara.
The journey takes between 31 and 40 hours depending
on which train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky
station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 18:21 and
22:29 and arrive in Samara in the morning (09:23 and
05:20 correspondingly).
By plane: There are two flights a day from St. Petersburg
to Samara. The flights take around 2 hours 20 minutes.
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

(+7) 846 333 70 15, www.alabin.ru. The Alabin Historical
Museum has a collection of 180,000 items relating to the full
spectrum of Russian history and natural sciences. It includes
archaeological, mineralogical, zoological, botanical and
ethnographic collections, and on display are, among other
things, coin collections, rare books and weaponry from Russia,
Western Europe and the Middle East. The museum also has
a display relating to the history of Samara (Kuibyshev) during
WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

267 43 75. The Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation
Engines has the world‘s largest collection of Russian aircraft
engines. The collection dates to the establishment of Samara
State Aero-Space University founded in 1942. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lenin’s House Museum Leninskaya ul. 131-135,

tel. (+7) 846 333 68 58. Located in a late 19th century
merchant mansion the museum preserves items of the period of Lenin‘s stay in Samara in 1890-93. It portrays the
atmosphere and the material life of an intellectual family
of this period. The museum also has a zone for temporary
exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Samara Art Museum Ul. Kuibysheva 92, tel. (+7) 846

332 33 09, www.artmus.ru. The Samara Art Museum
has a fine collection of Russian art going back to the 18th
century. However, its modern art exhibitions include some of
the finest art produced in the 20th century by Russian and
western artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 40 - 80Rbl.

Stalin’s bunker Ul. Frunze 167, tel. (+7) 846 333 35

71. When Germany invaded the Soviet Union in 1941 they advanced so rapidly that by 15 October 1941 their forces were
only 16 km from the Moscow Kremlin. The Soviet Government
decided to evacuate to Samara (known as Kuibyshev from
1935 to 1990). Consequently a bunker was prepared for Stalin
in Samara. The bunker was a precise copy of Stalin‘s Moscow
bunker and was completed at a rapid pace, being ready on
1 November 1942. The top secret facility was hermetically
sealed and located 35 m underground. It was designed to
be fully autonomous for five whole days in event of bombing
raids and gas attacks. The bunker used the first air reusing
system in the Soviet Union and had a large store of fresh food
and water with two escape exits. The bunker now houses
an exhibition on World War II. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, closed
Sat, Sun. Admission 40 - 80Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hotels
Ibis Yaroslavl Center Pervomaysky per. 2a, tel. (+7)
4852 59 29 00, www.ibishotel.com. Opened in October
2011, the new Ibis brings much needed quality budget accommodation to Yaroslavl. The building is brand new and all
the rooms have been fixed up to the Ibis brand standard. The
location is perfect. Dead in the city centre, but situated just off
the busiest streets to ensure a quiet night‘s sleep. Q177 rooms
(Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast
not included (380Rbl). PTHA6ULGBKW hhh

Sightseeing
Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor) Kotorol-

naya nab. 2a, www.yareparhia.ru. The first wooden cathedral was built here in 1215, destroyed by fire it was then rebuilt
in the 16th Century and was completely destroyed again in the
20th Century by the Soviets. In 2005 it was decided to rebuild
the cathedral once again and in an astonishing feat of construction the huge building was completed in just five years.

Church of St. Elijiah the Prophet (Ilya Prorok)

Sovetskaya pl. 7. The interiors here are easily some of
the most bright and beautiful you will see in all of Russia.
Frescoes, with a distinct blue which is typical to the Golden
Ring region, cover every possible surface, soaring all over the
walls and roofs and telling well known stories from the Bible.
The church‘s amazing acoustics also add to the enchanting
historic feeling of the place. Q Open 08:30 - 19:30.

Monument to our Lady of Kazan Kotoroslnaya nab.

26 (in front of the Our Saviour and Transfiguration monastery). This modern bell tower in front of the monastery was
placed here in 1997 to commemorate the place where Minin
and Pozhakrsky and their assembled army set off to oust the
Poles from Russia in 1612. Now famous due its place on the
1,000 Rouble note it has become a popular spot for Russian
tourists and wedding parties to take photos.

lenskaya pl. 25, tel. (+7) 4852 30 38 69, www.yarmp.
yar.ru. Yaroslavl’s most important monastery dates back to
the 13th Century. All but destroyed during a fire in 1501, the
monastery as you see it today was mostly built in the 16th
Century. For centuries it was one of the biggest monasteries
in Russia and by 1764 it owned vast amounts of land and had
some 14,000 serfs. Almost every Tsar in history visited the
monastery and it was behind its formidable walls that Minin
and Pozharsky prepared their citizen’s army before sailing
down the Volga to help defeat the Poles.

Volzhskaya Naberezhnaya (Volga Embankment).

Walking along the tree-lined river embankments is the
favourite past time of the locals at any time of the year and
the view of the Volga on one side and the many historical
buildings on the other is delightful. Along the way you will pass
dozens of (mostly 16th Century) churches, as well as the spit
(strelka) which juts out at the point where two rivers meet.
In the summer there are dancing fountains on the strelka.
Further along the Kotorsol river side of the embankment
there is a large beach and a rickety amusement park. The
whole embankment route is kilometers long - and fortunately
there are numerous cafes to rest en route.

Getting There
There are four trains a day travelling to Yaroslavl. The journey takes between 12 and 21 hours depending on which
train you take. From St. Petersburg’s Moskovsky station
(metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart at 17:40, 18:21 and
21:07. From Ladozhsky station (metro Ladozhskaya)
trains depart at 16:45.

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Sochi

sochi
Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02,
www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses,
which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure.
The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they
speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district,
it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when
there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl
depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days
minimum. PTLDCW
Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Esto-

Sochi
Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical
climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black
Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014.
However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not
used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians,
and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the
beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten
thousand residents, a small expat community is working
hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics.
During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and
30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May
this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature
of 23 degrees.
The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are
around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where
the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower
in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often
there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with
a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.

Getting There
Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the
Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the
145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in
the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot
dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast
in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say
from experience.
By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10
per day. The trains leave from different train stations
(al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so
check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the
most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium
which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other
trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg
there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and
one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or
Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg
takes between 37 and 57 hours.
By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and
Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from
St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a
famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above
sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which
reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana
will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping.
Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of
Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the
Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus
highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy
water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built
along the coast.
After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class
received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi
became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he
visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit
his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet
sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic.
In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was
developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel
abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the
region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall
of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to
Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s
economy suffered hard.
When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s
Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000,
the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city
won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so
far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport
stadiums and high-speed railways.

Hotels

sadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243
00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually
in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a
three-star hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the
helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in
keeping guests happy. It also has, by reputation, the best bar
in Rosa Khutor - although, that said, it is still a fairly basic hotel
bar. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch
influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a
mixture of local and European cuisine. Room rates typically
start around 3600 rubles (85 Euros) a night. The company
is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden
Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148
rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6U�
FLGKDwW

Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya
ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name
means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet
Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The
plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956
rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL�
GKDCwW

Restaurants
Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,

www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food,
according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi.
This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has
outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats
are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€.
PTASW

Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old
port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and
sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The
Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid
view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace.
Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the
port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under
construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its
region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms,
complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even
allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made
a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian,
it will be hard to find them on the internet.

Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,

Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33,
tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru.
At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is
the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a
great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation!
Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very
luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black
Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl).
PHA6ULGKDCSwW

Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has
opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent
views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen
to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and
drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW
266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals,
this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and
we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen,
as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese
bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions
and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana
Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for
generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge
for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and
sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski
facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya
Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map.
The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes
of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s
airport, set amid magnificent scenery.
It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those
slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles
out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers
through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp
deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling,
snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively
brief, from late December to April, but staff say the
last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be
a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole
region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of
the great outdoors.
In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is
establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its
cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town
square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects
the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site.
Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars,
although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars
and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105)
connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper,
the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and
downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the
high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train
station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The
new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.

Pomegranate Explosive!
Try this freshly squeezed
juice upon arrival in Sochi to boost your energy.
You will see it being sold
everywhere, at the local
markets, and even along
the beaches. Special juicing machines have been
made to crush the pomegranates (you can buy one
of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of
antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue
and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with
alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine.

August - September 2013

65

66

Kazan

Kazan
Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city
(as their official slogan states) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’.
As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan
mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and
government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous
for being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city.
The undisputed must-see attraction in Kazan is the UNESCO
listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the
Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve visited the Kremlin
make sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning
Peter and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy
stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full
of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in. Download our
Instant Guide at kazan.inyourpocket.com.

Kazan Kremlin
The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts
both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral.
The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and
houses the official residence of the President of the Republic
of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the
Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St.
Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the
Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many
vendors selling local souvenirs.

Getting There
By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct
train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro
Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours
and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the
next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a
day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes
between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you
take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive
in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky
station (metro Komsomolskaya).
By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7

are the main (and safest) airlines offering international
transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer
flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take
around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes
drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should
cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan
from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned
companies offer connecting flights via Moscow.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected
between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important
cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady
of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope
John Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a
style similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the
Moscow Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the
centuries and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered
yet more damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower
and other ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. Be
sure to pass behind the Cathedral to admire the spectacular
view over the river.
Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya,
tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened
with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre
regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought
especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage
museum. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature alongside the stunning art, and there is also a large dedication to
traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved bone,
bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and glasswork.
Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel.

(+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th
Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here
which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol
Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque
from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in
1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the
fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties
including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit
in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally
inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium
and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly
recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as
Europe’s largest mosque.