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Just thought I'd post and update after my busy weekend. Got a few things done, big three and new led bulbs all around.

Initially after the big three, I saw a major improvement with my lighting at full bass. That alone made me quite happy! Not sure about my voltages on the amp right now but, 100% certain it's not going below the minimal 8.4v needed. If I were to guess, it's definitely in the 12v range. Waiting to get my volt meter in before I can really see what's going on, too bad my sperry multimeter was stolen from my truck a few weeks back.... I further after the big three and upgraded all my interior and exterior bulbs to led while I wait for my battery and very surprised with the outcome, I have absolutely no more dimming with my headlights when giving it full bass. Really like the look of the led interior bulbs too, makes thing look a lot cleaner. Only thing that still dims are the dash and radio lights but, I plan on changing those out with some nice blue colored wedge LEDs that use less than .5w compared to the 2-3w stock bulbs. I think once I get a better battery in, I'll be prime and making some great bass. I'll get some pictures upload when I get close to finishing up everything.

The sub has true 4awg cca wire running to it (not the 4awg but is actually 6awg) and same wiring for the ground. My second hand box was built custom and tuned, or so the guy that made it says.

This needs to be fixed. You should be running true 4 gauge. Ideally OFC> if you are running 6 gauge you will be pushing to much power through that wire. Does not make sense to do the big 3 and not upgrade this.

Also you need to be concerned if you are dropping below 12 volts not 8, even if the amp says it can take it. At that point you are depleting your battery and most likely the car will die.

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Definitely have the main wire power wire upgrade on my list of things to do, just waiting for payday to come this week and running up to the D4S shop here in Vegas to pick up some 1/0 gauge OFC and new battery terminals. Getting JP's brand, certified basshead since he's got a little discount available from time to time if you pick up at the warehouse. Also have a Autocraft 720cca Group 24f AGM battery on the way which will be MUCH better the stock 400cca Group 51 battery.

Edited January 16 by chevzilla

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I just want to point out for those who aren't sure and/or cant stand flickering head lights, HID lighting uses fully regulated ballast because the bulb doesn't have the ability to handle voltage swings without immediate damage. It doesn't care about the input voltage and will not dim as long as you stay in range and the wire has enough current to make up for low voltage.

On those model accords, i pull the front & rear mic to disable the ANC, careful not to accidentally pull the bluetooth mic, otherwise you need to hit the damn diag menu every start-up.

The ELD can be disabled through hondata or re-coding your ECU through honda or a 3rd party software, most people say fuck it and just rock the headlights everywhere, much cheaper option.