Description

I tried to warm up on Gelsa and instead of traversing left at a piton 20' up, I went straight up. The initial moves up are a bit bouldery and then it settles into nice thin crack and face climbing to a small left facing corner. Climb the corner and step right to bolted anchors. It turned out that this pitch was really nice. I found it very exciting when I was expecting 5.4.

This ONLY describes pitch one. The upper pitches are 10a/b and not recommended in the guidebook.

Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it. I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes.

I am 5'2" and lead this today. I think if you try and climb the flake there would be a BIG move. If you traverse right at the bottom of the flake and climb the face, there are plenty of holds all reasonably spaced. I enjoyed the moves up the corner above, look around and you can find a really easy way to ascend that corner. Anchor is up above and way to the right.

Climbed on doubles, 60M. Made it back to the ground with rope to spare.