Leek Base Flavors Sauteed Fish Fillets

A few short decades ago the home cook had to travel to fairly obscure markets to find leeks, and only the most knowledgeable nonprofessionals dared experiment with them.

If leeks were mentioned at all in newspapers and magazines, it was in the form of soup, in its many versions, the dish most often written about.

Ironically, the onionlike leek, with its delicate flavor, is quite versatile. An old friend, Gilbert Le Coze of Le Bernadin restaurants in Paris and New York, recently told me about a great, uncommonly subtle leek dish.

Chopped leeks are cooked in a little wine and fish broth until tender. This mixture serves as a base for fish fillets, sauteed quickly until golden brown.

An additional vegetable dish is unessential, but lovers of vegetables may wish to include a gratin of fresh broccoli, a good side dish that is easy to prepare.

FILLET OF FISH WITH LEEK SAUCE

Four servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 20 minutes

4 skinless, boneless fillets of scrod, about 1 1/4 pounds, see note

Salt to taste if desired

Freshly ground pepper to taste

3 leeks, about 1 1/2 pounds

9 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 cup fish broth or bottled clam juice

1/4 cup finely chopped chives or parsley

4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Sprinkle fish on all sides with salt and pepper.

2. Trim off root ends of leeks. Cut each leek crosswise in half. Put upper green portion to another use, such as soup, or discard.

3. Slice white part of leek lengthwise and rinse thoroughly between the leaves. Cut into thin strips, then into very thin cubes. There should be about 3 1/2 cups.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet and add shallots. Cook briefly, stirring, and add leeks. Cook, stirring, about 2 minutes and add wine and fish broth or clam juice. Cover closely and cook 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until most of the liquid evaporates. Swirl in 6 tablespoons of butter and the chives or parsley.

5. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in a large, heavy skillet and add fish fillets. Cook about 2 minutes on one side or until golden brown. Cook about 1 minute on second side. Cooking time will depend on thickness of fillets. This may have to be done in two batches.

6. Spoon equal batches of the leek mixture into centers of four warmed plates. Cover each portion with one cooked fillet. Spoon 1 teaspoon of lemon juice over each fillet and serve.

Note: Any thin, skinless fillets of white-fleshed fish, including gray or lemon sole, may be substituted for scrod.

BROCCOLI AU GRATIN

Four servings

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

2 heads very green, unblemished broccoli

Salt to taste if desired

2 tablespoons butter at room temperature

3 eggs

1 cup milk

1/2 cup whipping cream

Freshly ground pepper to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of cayenne

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Carefully cut broccoli tops into large, bite-size flowerets. Make a small incision in the bottom of each piece to facilitate cooking. Peel stems and cut into bite-size pieces. There should be about 6 cups.

3. Heat enough water to a boil to cover the pieces when added. Add salt, if desired. Add broccoli and cook, uncovered, 6 minutes. Drain.

4. With the butter, grease the inside of a 6-cup souffle dish. Put broccoli pieces in dish in one neat layer.

5. In a mixing bowl beat eggs well. Blend in milk, cream, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne and salt, if desired. Pour this over broccoli.

6. Set dish in a larger heat-proof utensil and pour boiling water around it. Heat to a boil and let simmer 5 minutes on top of stove. Place dish in its water bath in oven and bake 30 minutes or until custard is set.