Description

Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress.

On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the park.

We always used to start a few more feet to the left of that dihedral at the very thin crack. This start is not quite visible behind the belayer's boulder in the photo. These thin cracks go directly up to the hand crack below the alcove. Brinton's Direct also makes for a great aid climb. ABQ.

Pro up to the alcove is the same as for Brintons crack. After the alcove the crack is thin and there are a few good placements. Use small nuts (BD # 4-5) and alliens for this section. I found particularly useful a orange allien (1.5) and a blue allien(0.375). The blue allien protects te crux after the undercling and sidepull holds. For belay there is a good stance just before topping out. The belay can be set up on uppermost the horizontal crack after the ledge. crack takes cams and nuts up to 0.5in.

Hey anonymous coward, You said this route makes for a great aid lead. Well i tried it, aid solo, and did not see any way possible to make this route go. Right at the free climbing crux of the route, there was no possible way to place gear or hook for that matter. I was forced to hook right and exit Brinton's direct into the crack system for the regular route. I feel like i explored all options for continuing straight up, unless there is something i missed i don't think aiding this route is possible.

Ryan, most big aid routes include some mandatory free moves. Using the rock for hand/foot holds in addition to standing in your etriers is also common. Just because you are aid climbing does not mean you can leave your free climbing skills at home!

Take a hook for down low, a couple of big pieces for up high, and grab the rock! I think if you can aid this route, you have the gear skills for the West Face ... you just need to add in your Grade V focus.

Many of the pitches on the Nose have short sections of 5.6, 5.7 that are mandatory free or super ackward to aid i.e a flaring chimney. The difficulty comes in free climbing a 20ft 5.6 section in aid shoes and tons of gear.