Few travellers leave Muscat without stopping outside Sultan Qaboos’s futuristic-looking building. Al Alam Palace (Palace of the Flag) was built in 1972, two years after the still-reigning Sultan ousted his father in a British-backed coup. It is one of the funkiest royal palaces you’re ever likely to see, with mushroom columns in turquoise and gold. A short stroll away, the National Museum provides a first-rate introduction to the history of Oman. Allow a couple of hours to take in the interactive exhibits and interesting short films – and don’t leave without sampling dates with qahwa (cardamom-infused coffee) in the ground-floor cafe.