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Steering help for Son-uva Digger

I've been wrestling with this for some time and it's not just a "you need to adjust your trim" issue. My Son-uva Digger seems to have one wheel with the toe in on the "passenger side" (if it were real) and also a camber issue. Is there a solution with the stock parts? Or, am I going to be in it for some upgraded parts? If so, what would you suggest as a start?

Right now I'm using about 90 - 95% of the trim adjust on the truck's TQ controller just to get it going straight and I'm starting to worry that the one tire (if not all of them) is going to get an odd wear pattern and then I'll be in it for 2 new MJ tires as well.

Take servo saver (horn) off, put all steering trim at 0, turn on the remote and the truck, then put the servo saver (horn) back on straight. Remember: The remote and truck both need to be powered on with the steering trim at 0 before you put the servo saver (horn) back on straight.

For the camber get some adjustable camber links. Red blue silver whatever color you like.

Is it alot of toe in? Seems if you have to adjust it that much to keep it straight there is something else going on with it. I know you can take the screw out of the servo saver and remove it, set the trim to 0 and reattach the servo saver with the wheels as straight as you can.

I don't think you can adjust camber on the XL5's but you can adjust the toe with the rod that goes from the servo to the wheel.

The stock plastic links for camber suck major bASS, if u know what I mean. I planned to keep my digger stock compared to other stuff, but the links had to be changed to get the tires to point mildly in the right direction. Just for fun I measured all the plastic links, and everyone was different, d'oh. I just bought front adjustable links since im cheap, heh. The truck drives a lot better since.

Take servo saver (horn) off, put all steering trim at 0, turn on the remote and the truck, then put the servo saver (horn) back on straight. Remember: The remote and truck both need to be powered on with the steering trim at 0 before you put the servo saver (horn) back on straight.

For the camber get some adjustable camber links. Red blue silver whatever color you like.

For the toe adjust the steering link.

I've adjusted the servo saver before doing it the way you described... I think. I'll do it again and be sure to follow your steps as a guide just to be sure I didn't screw it up.
I had looked at getting the blue camber links before when I noticed this problem happening. But, thanks to everyone's great input, it seems that I need to go ahead and buy them. Maybe I'll go ahead and upgrade to the TRX aluminum caster blocks as well... Thoughts on that y'all??
I'm considering doing the front steering blocks as well both to additionally correct / prevent this problem AND to get the fronts upgraded to bearings. At $30, I might wait on doing that. Anyone done this yet? Made a difference / is it worth it? And, is it wise to make the front bearings while the rear stays stock (for now)?

I broke four castor blocks before I replaced mine with the aluminum Traxxas ones. My theory was that the plastic ones are cheap to replace so I just made sure I always had spares. The last time I broke one I realized I had four extra rights but no left. (makes me wonder about my driving) So I broke down and bought the aluminum.

I was very surprised at how much slop it took out of the front end. I would highly recommend them.

Lots of good advice above. Center the servo first, put some adjustability VXL links on and get the tires straight with a little toe-in. Then set the camber which means the tops will slightly lean in. Then you should ve set up correctly. RPM makes a camber gauge for about $7.50

You can rotate the front/rear tires left to right because they're non-directional.

Having bearings on the front and bushings on the rear is no problem. A little aluminum on all 4 corners is okay too.

I'm betting that the castor block is bent. I've been thinking of replacing those anyway b/c everyone says they're the first thing to break anyway. So, it's starting to look like castor blocks and the camber / steering links are the ticket for this go round.

I didn't know you could get aftermarket steering blocks in plastic. Those carry (or even come with) bearings?

Hey Digger,
Here is a link to the RPM steering blocks (aka bearing carriers). They work great and I've never had one break yet.http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/8037.htm
One downside I've discovered from having RPM castor blocks AND bearing carriers is that while the RPM parts do not break, they do bend. Sometimes a lot, to the point where sometimes I have an almost impossible time getting the bent king pins out. It's not a bad thing necessarily, but I wonder if maybe I should have gone with aluminum castor blocks. I go through king pins like crazy!

Hey Digger,
Here is a link to the RPM steering blocks (aka bearing carriers). They work great and I've never had one break yet.http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...hires/8037.htm
One downside I've discovered from having RPM castor blocks AND bearing carriers is that while the RPM parts do not break, they do bend. Sometimes a lot, to the point where sometimes I have an almost impossible time getting the bent king pins out. It's not a bad thing necessarily, but I wonder if maybe I should have gone with aluminum castor blocks. I go through king pins like crazy!