World Class Sport Climbing 30 km north of Oudtshoorn (near the Cango Caves). The rock is limestone and the routes are mostly overhanging with awesome stalactites. There are +/-30 single pitch bolted routes, up to 35m long. The climbing is located around the De Hoek Resort camp site.

Getting There

Oudtshoorn is about five or six hours' drive from Cape Town. Take the N1 to Worcester, then turn off onto the R60 towards Robertson. Drive through Robertson and Ashton to Montagu. From Montagu, take the R62 and pass through Barrydale, Ladismith, Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn. From Oudtshoorn, follow the signs towards the Cango Caves. About 30 km from Oudtshoorn (and 1 km before the Cango Caves), turn left into the Prins Albert road. Drive for 5km to the De Hoek turnoff (on the right). De Hoek is about 1 km down the road.

Food & Accommodation

Oudshoorn is the nearest big town - so stock up on all your food and supplies before heading off tho the camp site. The De Hoek Campsite is great. Check out their website at http://www.dehoekmountainresort.co.za. Contact: Campsite - De Hoek Mountain Resort En Route to Swartberg Pass Tel. (044) 272 8214 phone for Reservations. If you are only climbing for the day, you will need to purchase a permit from the entrance of the campsite.

Gear

Sport Rack & a 60m rope, if you've got a 70m rope, even better.

Season

All year round. It can be rather hot in Summer, but the main crag enters the shade in the late morning.

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Areas

There are several limestone crags all of which are within short walking distance from the campsite.

Initiation Sector

This sector is located on the grey slab next to the path going to the main crag. The path to the main crag begins about 100m outside the entrance to De Hoek. There are routes from grade 16 to 22.

Deja vu a la Buoux 22

Initiation 20

Pins and Needles 18

Southern Cross 16

Dr Stein 18

Ride the Sky 18,

Victim of Fate 19

Main Crag

One of the best collections of climbs in SA. The path to the main crag begins about 100m outside the entrance to De Hoek.

Below is a draft topo of the Main Crag by Roger Nattrass

Routes (from left to right)

Streetfighter (34) FA: Grant Campbell (2006) a.k.a. 'Two to win' the name given by Canadian Grant Campbell who opened the route. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth the more popular SA variant has stuck. Was the hardest route in Africa until Mazawattee (35/8c+).

The Quickening (28) FA: Jason Temple-Forbes Start up Up For Grabs but soon branch off left. Head up past the anchors of Sid Vicious and then right and further up.

The Quickening (wimp) (27) Same as the full Quickening but stop at the anchors of Sid Vicious.

The Abominable Douwman (28/29) FA: Douw Steyn The longest linkup on the crag? Do Bigfoot, move onto Paws and do its crux. Then cross over Mama Africa and finish up the top of the full Quickening. 60m rope required.

Curiosity Crag

The Watch Tower

Left of the Main Crag, the small tower-like crag. Follow the path from the main crag up and across to access.
From Left to Right:

All along the Watchtower (19) FA: Scott Noy (2006)

Dust till Dawn (21) FA: Scott Miller 2006

Supafly (21) FA: Scott Miller 2006

Skinny Legs wall

Follow the path on from the street fighter side of main crag, head down a bit, across a bit and up a bit to the Bushman's cave (Cave entrance obscured by bushes), Scramble up to a blocky ledge left of the cave using the metal staples (Thanks to Douw Steyn).
L to R

Logistics

De Hoek Campsite is a great place to camp as it is walking distance from the crag and has swimming pools, hot showers and other niceties.

Chalets are available at the De Hoek Resort. A four-sleeper costs R250 per chalet per night (March 2009).

De Hoek sells sweets and cold drinks and firewood. The closest place to buy other food is Oudtshoorn.

Other activities

There are some caves near the crag. Ask the locals where they are, if you know what you are doing. Otherwise guided trips through the Cango Caves are your best bet. You can also ride ostriches, camels and quad bikes, or check out the big cat breeding programme at the wildlife ranch just outside of Oudtshoorn. The Swartberg pass offers a nice alternative route back to CT via Prince Albert and the N1.