Wales Pub Guide: Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, Nant Gwynant, Gwynedd

Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel in Nant Gwynant, North Wales, has been a haunt of heroes and
offers delicious food and drink.

Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, Nant Gwynant, North Wales

By Adrian Tierney-Jones in Wales

3:02PM BST 09 Oct 2008

There's nothing showy about the Pen-y-Gwryd. In fact, this Welsh gem is so self-effacing that most people drive straight past, en route to the Llanberis Pass and Snowdon, never knowing what they've missed. The pub is shrouded by high rhododendrons, its solid walls are clad with Virginia creeper and it has a pleasing insouciance. Set in a stunning landscape; it's been a haunt of heroes and offers delicious food and drink. What's to prove?

A favourite of Snowdonia crag rats since the 19th century and the headquarters of Sir Edmund Hillary and his team (while preparing for Everest in 1953), this is an establishment that seems marooned in a more honest time. Its charms are so old-fashioned that they actually appear hip. The style is simple shabby chic - all wood and slate and old OS maps. Food is locally sourced, fresh as a daisy and all home-cooked (from the delicious bread and cakes to the tangy lemonade). Service is warm and friendly.

''We're slow to change here,'' laughs the barmaid. I have just said how glad I am that the sprightly Glaslyn Ale from local brewery Purple Moose has finally joined the Pen-y-Gwryd's long-established libation of Draught Bass.

One room has a ceiling festooned with well-worn leather climbing boots dangling by their laces. In the other room, you can read the signatures of Hillary and Co scrawled on panels in the ceiling, along with autographs of climbers including Chris Bonington and James (now Jan) Morris.

The menu is reassuringly short and assured. The hearty filled rolls (BLT, hot sausage: £3.95) come with a perfectly dressed salad. Smoked duck salad (£5.95) is delightfully zingy while the sweet potato and coconut soup (£3.75) is delicate and warming.