Looking at a boat tonight! 2010 23LSV

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Ryan1776 1

Ryan1776 1

Hello everyone! Been a long time lurker and reader on and off and decided to make an account and drop a post!

I've been working hard getting things in order to get a new-to-me boat this year.

Currently I'm in an 86 Surpa comp! Yes, you can surf it. My Wetsounds Pro 60's are bigger than the pocket however!

My local marina has a 2010 LSV. approx 500 hours.

Only a few options I believe, 4 tower speakers. 8 inboard speakers. (not sure about sub) bow ballast and power wedge.

My dad sells boats, but he sells Tracker and pontoons. I'm not a fisherman. But he gave me some good things to check.

I'm very technically savvy as far as engines and transmissions. Built some race engines/cars, NA and turbo. Turbo car into the 9's with a buddy.

Here's his list.

Battery condition

Water pump engine and ballast-condition

All electronics in order

Engine diagnostic test Hours@rpm

Maintenance record.

Compression test- mandatory

Copy of the NADA or ABOS to verify options.

How am I looking?

What specifically should I look for with this boat. Things that are specific to this model/year.

The interior isn't as clean as I was expecting from the photos and one corner seat, rearmost port side cushion, has a tear/seam pop. Most likely from entry/exit of the boat.

Not a deal breaker but something to consider.

When working the deal, I've seen other boats, same year, model, hours with cleaner looking interior, upgraded ballast and audio, for the same price. How much of that is worth using for negotiations?

I know you're thinking, well get that "one" but this is local and my deposit gets it's held until the ice thaws and I can test drive it. Deposit is 100% refundable and transferable to another boat if one I like more comes in.

So that's my story!

I'm excited for this adventure and hope to be able to have more than 3 people in my boat this summer!

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idaman 2

idaman 2

Being a Vdrive, I would check the shaft to make sure it is been maintained as well. A lot of people forget about that. 500 hours is fairly low for me, so if everything on your list checks out, I wouldn't be concerned. Seat tears are no big deal. In the process of replacing one of mine and for $180 for a new skin after 11 years, I am not going to gripe about it. Congrats on the new to you boat.

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Fman 3,887

Fman 3,887

Taking it to a certified Malibu/Indmar dealer is a must. Spend the money and have a mechanic climb all over it and perform a leakdown test on the engine. Also would ask for service records of oil changes and maintenance. Keep in mind that year Malibu uses the dual Lenco actuators for the power wedge, if they have never been replaced there is a good chance you will be doing it sometime. They are known for leaking and shorting out.

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saxton15 539

saxton15 539

One thing I would be checking is the condition of the MTC screen (where you input the engine start code). This screen is notorious for de-lamination, and it is an issue that is well covered in this forum. You'll know it is delaminating by checking around the edges of the screen itself, it will almost look like bubbling. Over time, this gets worse and eventually, If the screen decides to kick the bucket on you in the middle of the lake, you will be in trouble. . There is no remedy at the moment other than ordering a new screen ($1500), and even this option is hit and miss.

This is an issue for 2010-2011 model years without a back up key start installed. A backup key start can be retro fitted, I've done it in my 2011. Overall, I don't think this should be a complete deterrent from these years, but it's something to check. My screen has some bubbling, but it has not affected the performance in any capacity, nor has it gotten worse in the last few years.

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Ryan1776 1

Ryan1776 1

Keep in mind that year Malibu uses the dual Lenco actuators for the power wedge, if they have never been replaced there is a good chance you will be doing it sometime. They are known for leaking and shorting out.

Got it! Any early signs of leaking on the actuators? Or just "wait for it".

5 minutes ago, saxton15 said:

One thing I would be checking is the condition of the MTC screen (where you input the engine start code).

I only saw a key? So it definitely has a key start. But do ALL 2010 have touch code starts as well?

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Fman 3,887

Fman 3,887

Got it! Any early signs of leaking on the actuators? Or just "wait for it".

I only saw a key? So it definitely has a key start. But do ALL 2010 have touch code starts as well?

I will look for this.

I'll post photos tonight.

Intermittent problems with wedge up and down can be a sign there are leaking issues but they can also just go out without warning. Usually one side fails which causes problems for the other side. It's not a deal breaker and if they need replacement you can replace them yourself for a reasonable cost.

Not having the MTC is a plus they had freezing issues on first releases. Will be a non issue for you.

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Ryan1776 1

Ryan1776 1

OK guys! Thank you for the tips.
Here's the update. And I'm being almost overly critical.

The boat was one owner and bought from the marina who has it now. All service was done at marina, including winterization.

The sales guy told me that everything on these vintage LSV's were options. Even the tower? Really?

In light of that, the only options it did not get were, sub, underwater lights, heater, transom shower.

Lencos are being checked but pretty sure they've been changed and they look fairly new.

The interior is fair in my opinion. The skins where you step into the boat are marginal on the two outer most parts. The center one was beat and they re did it. The tops of the skins look discolored and weathered but not terrible.

The connectors in the glove compartment are pretty corroded. Thought that was strange. The USB looks shot. The others are probably functional.

The cup holders on each side of the boat are falling in. Apparently the screws break or fall out?

The hull has some dock/trailer rash. Mainly cosmetic and nothing to 'glass. One spot on the leading edge of the hull center-line IS through to glass. So that should be addressed. But at a foot away, you can't see any of the dock rash.

The trailer is pretty bad. Rust at more spots than I'd expect. My dad said probably a bad prime job. The bunks need to be replaced and the starboard boat guide is completely missing.

All electronics work as designed and are completely functional. Everything that came with the boat is operational. All buttons and touch membranes are active. The Malivu screen is clear without any signs of deterioration. Windshield is clean.

Keep in mind this was a very critical review. The boat is in pretty good shape as a whole. This was me fine-tooth combing it. Also, keep in mind this one of the first used boats I've looked this closely at. So this could be normal wear and tear.

I tried to attach photos and it whipped out this whole thing, so I had to type it twice. I'll post this and work on photos.

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wdr 346

wdr 346

Your soft ware version for the Malivue might be an earlier one. No big, if you close the deal hit me up and I will send the newest to you. Go into the Malivue Software version it will tell you what have and then go in to the diagnostics screen and check to see the fault history or for active faults. I have occasional issues with the front MLS pump priming but other than that it has been a pretty trouble free boat. Check the trailer! Let me know if you have anymore questions. BIll

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Ryan1776 1

Ryan1776 1

Your soft ware version for the Malivue might be an earlier one. No big, if you close the deal hit me up and I will send the newest to you. Go into the Malivue Software version it will tell you what have and then go in to the diagnostics screen and check to see the fault history or for active faults.

This is cool! I didn't know it was that "smart" to be able to do stuff like that.

What does the new software get me? Just firmware stuff or actual

19 minutes ago, wdr said:

Check the trailer!

HA! You posted as I was typing. Must be something with those years eh?

Thank you a lot Bill! I forgot to mention, that I put a deposit on it. 100% refundable and transferable if something else comes in I like more. But even for it's faults, it's a pretty nice boat.

gregtay 54

Occasionally I have issues with the center tank fill pump not priming on my 2008 (same set up).. the quick solution is to turn the pump on and drive forward (maybe up to 10-12mph, just enough to get a little bow lift) and then stop... seem to be just enough to disrupt the air pocket around the impeller and prime the pump.

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Ryan1776 1

Ryan1776 1

Occasionally I have issues with the center tank fill pump not priming on my 2008 (same set up).. the quick solution is to turn the pump on and drive forward (maybe up to 10-12mph, just enough to get a little bow lift) and then stop... seem to be just enough to disrupt the air pocket around the impeller and prime the pump.

Excellent tip!!

Brings up a question, can I fill while underway in normal conditions? Idle speed lets say. As the boat warms up driving to the starting spot.

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saxton15 539

saxton15 539

I do it all the time. We set out in idle for a little bit and I start filling right away.

For the cupholders, are you referring to the entire plastic plate that holds them? One of mine did the same, but the support that holds cracked. I managed to secure it back to place. Take a look upwards in that compartment, and you'll be able to see what the issue is. Might just be a loose screw.

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wdr 346

wdr 346

The firmware update V23 fixed some crazy shallow water alarm I was getting in deep water. Other than that it was a transparent computer fix. Same situation on my bow tank as @gregtay had on his center tank. If you are going to start surfing a lot there be no avoiding plumbing in additional bags unfortunately. I am only running bow 750 and a surf side locker 1100 with great results.

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isellacuras 1,985

isellacuras 1,985

The plugs in the glovebox are junk anyways. Not even sure what the usb in there was for. I think it was to play video on the maliview screen. I mean, who even does that anyways? The round 30 pin (I think its called) is junk too. Its the one that goes from the RF crap to the old fat style ipod connector. you need to use an adaptor and they proved super unreliable for me. Get Bluetooth and be done with it. You will probably want to plumb in additional locker sacks at least. the 2010's had 3/4" lines which didn't work out to well for a piggy back system. three Johnson pumps, bags and extra stuff will prolly set you back $1600+ or so but will be well worth it so you don't have to keep throwing pumps overboard. May want to work with the dealer to get that done prior to delivery or worked in the deal. You may not need extra weight for wakeboarding but you definitely will for surfing. I like the tapered 650 or 675 sumos for the lockers. I am in the camp that you don't need to SLAM it to get it really good. 675 triangle for the bow for fine tuning. I now run a suction surf gate but that LSV23 will do well listed or gated. Just need to spend some time dialing it in if it has never had additional ballast installed. I hope it all works out. This is an exciting time of boat ownership. Enjoy.

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wdr 346

wdr 346

The towers are probably functional, but barely. @ 3 years of indoor stored and covered use the factory MB Quart speaker cones delaminated giving them a god awful rattle. I went w a pair of Rev 10 through a WS 420 EQ and SYN 4 amp. I still have the factory RF in boats but all been been replaced for delamination issues also. They work fine for my needs. The factory sub box sux and is literally 1/2 the correct recommemded size according to the RF specs. I built a custom box and it works great for me. There r other options price, performance and preference are variables. There are direct replacements for your OEM can speakers. Your can still find the OEM RF transom remotes online. I rarely use mine.