tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44384612993615910712017-01-01T04:19:20.860-08:00Sabbatical in Nepal - 2010Share our family adventure during our Sabbatical Semester in India, Nepal &amp; Thailand!Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.comBlogger60125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-87503218299262732752011-10-20T09:56:00.000-07:002011-10-20T10:10:12.094-07:00Families Inspiring FamiliesYesterday we had to find the new obscure Immigration Office to extend Karen's visa... We stood in lines, filled out forms, stapled photos, etc. While milling about the lobby, we noticed an Australian family with 2 young girls also filling out forms... and they had a copy of LOTR "Fellowship of the Rings" on the table. "Hey are you girls reading that? It's one of our favorite books," we asked...<br /><br /> It turns out that they are reading LOTR as a family each night (just like we did 2 years ago), and they just finished hiking the Annapurna Circuit last week!!! "Wow, that's awesome!!! We hiked the AC last year with OUR girls!" "Really?,"asked John (their dad), "did your family have a blog?" Yes.... "And are your girls 2 blondes and a redhead?" YES???? "Oh right, your blog really helped us over the Pass! People thought we were crazy to bring the kids, but we read your blog a few times and felt much more confident and relaxed about doing this trek..." <br /><br /> What great coincidence to meet the fun and wonderful Vazey family, here in Kathmandu on a random Tuesday in the crowded Immigration office, and what a treat to hear that our adventure helped to inspire theirs. We, in turn, have been so inspired and encouraged by other families and friends over the years. It is fantastic to know their are tons of people out there, sharing this wonderful world with their kids! That's what the planet needs... more good stewards, respectful travelers, active adventurers, and curious cultural ambassadors. Teach the children well!Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-79349733823067636062011-10-20T08:39:00.000-07:002011-10-20T09:41:18.941-07:00Back in Nepal... for Bird-watching Projects!!!After 10 months away, Karen and I are back in Kathmandu! It's really a dream come true, as we had no idea how long it would be until we were able to return... Our kids (reluctantly) stayed home this time, as this is only a short working trip. Paul is here for 10 days, and Karen stays for one month. This is actually the first time in 13 years that we've taken a big trip without our children! Our philosophy has always been to travel <span style="font-style: italic;">with </span>our kids and <span style="font-style: italic;">for </span>our kids benefit... We've always planned our big adventures to experience together, so this is something quite different!<br /><br /> Due to the great success and enthusiasm for Karen's birding program at the <a href="http://www.hyf-us.org/projects_hostel_1.htm">Kailash Hostel</a> last year, the HYF (<a href="http://www.hyf-us.org/">Himalayan Youth Foundation</a>) invited us to return. Our goal is to work with the students, continue their training &amp; education, and help them to create a long-term sustainable bird-watching "Eco-club." We are so grateful for the energy and passion that these students have shown us, and also incredibly thankful for HYF's support in bringing us back to Nepal!!!<br /><br />For more updates, details, and photos from this current trip, check out the New Blog at: <a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://birdingnepal.blogspot.com/">http://birdingnepal.blogspot.com/</a>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-10496144045592267102011-01-05T03:30:00.000-08:002011-01-05T03:36:54.003-08:00Safely back home...Ahhhh... We are now back HOME in El Portal! It is so wonderful to sit by the cozy fire, petting our (rather plump) cat, and hear the kids snoring in bed. I am WIDE awake at 3am, surrounded by piles of "stuff" unpacked all over the floor, working on a lengthy "to do" list. Also trying to locate enough warm layers, as it's below freezing here, with frosty snow on the hilltops. Quite a change from tropical Thai beaches.<br /><br />Our flights home were smooth and easy... Wonderful grandparents met us at the airport with hugs galore... Driving was a snap, even after spending 4 months on the "wrong" side of the roads.<br /><br />So here we begin the next adventure, and try to process and truly appreciate these past several months of incredible experience. Transitioning back home to our "normal" life is always challenging for me. We'll try to go slowly, and take it step by step... All in good time...Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-65766336316726206912011-01-03T07:38:00.000-08:002011-01-11T23:17:34.816-08:00Fulfilling the fantasy!One of our oft-told family legends is the tale, surely exaggerated, about Daddy’s trip to Thailand in the 70’s.<span style=""> </span>We played all day on the beach, went para-sailing, and, since sunscreen was barely <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHy8ygzalI/AAAAAAAABd0/EF5ATmFsNns/s1600/IMG_0479.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHy8ygzalI/AAAAAAAABd0/EF5ATmFsNns/s200/IMG_0479.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557990541317335634" border="0" /></a>invented back then, got a world-class lobster-red sunburn that <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2z-l8AEI/AAAAAAAABe0/H4OLXnfqQpM/s1600/IMG_1198.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2z-l8AEI/AAAAAAAABe0/H4OLXnfqQpM/s200/IMG_1198.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557994787987783746" border="0" /></a>laid us up crying and whining in the hotel beds for 2 days…<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>Here we are 35 years later, and our girls have been fantasizing about Thailand for months. Not the sunburn part, but the beach and para-sailing part.<span style=""> </span>High on the Himalayan passes, Eliza would mention “this is SO awesome… I LOVE trekking in Nepal…. Hey Dad, will we get to para-sail in Thailand?”<span style=""> </span>Or at a Kathmandu restaurant Sylvie would exclaim, “Dalbaht is my favorite <i style="">FAVORITE</i> food!!!<span style=""> </span>…except Thai food. Mom, will we eat Thai food <b style=""><i style="">every</i></b> day in Thailand?”<span style=""> Eliza even claimed that Thailand was her favorite country, weeks before she'd ever set foot in the place!<br /></span> <p class="MsoNormal">So now we are finally here in "tropical paradise," hoping that<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHxKTpGB9I/AAAAAAAABdk/B_O9ZcqT4N4/s1600/IMG_0511.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHxKTpGB9I/AAAAAAAABdk/B_O9ZcqT4N4/s200/IMG_0511.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557988574525523922" border="0" /></a> Thailand will meet their lofty expectations.<span style=""> </span>The fruit &amp; food is <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH0ZCM--bI/AAAAAAAABec/n7CU1u5gix8/s1600/IMG_0567.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH0ZCM--bI/AAAAAAAABec/n7CU1u5gix8/s200/IMG_0567.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557992126077139378" border="0" /></a>exquisite, plentiful, and delicious.<span style=""> </span>Mangoes, star fruit, dragon fruit, mangosteens, pineapple, papaya, etc. etc….<span style=""> </span>Pad thai, green &amp; red curries, tom yum and tom kha gai, spicy green papaya salads, chicken satay on the streets, ice cold beer and soy milk and fresh fruit juices…. Ahhhhh…<span style=""> </span>It is SO wonderful to just <b style=""><i style="">eat</i></b> here!<span style=""> </span>And the parasailing bit?<span style=""> </span>Will it be possible on <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH0Y8NtfGI/AAAAAAAABeU/drwbH9pz4KQ/s1600/IMG_0610.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH0Y8NtfGI/AAAAAAAABeU/drwbH9pz4KQ/s200/IMG_0610.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557992124469574754" border="0" /></a>Koh Chang?<span style=""> </span>We came<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHxK5ZoC_I/AAAAAAAABds/XiKeOdKQayQ/s1600/IMG_0525.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHxK5ZoC_I/AAAAAAAABds/XiKeOdKQayQ/s200/IMG_0525.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557988584661191666" border="0" /></a> here because it’s not <b style=""><i style="">too</i></b> far away from Bangkok (5hrs.), but still has some mellow quiet affordable places to stay…<span style=""> </span>But on our first day splashing in the waves, we saw parachutes way down the coast, so we boarded our scooters and zipped down to check it out.<span style=""> </span>Oh yes!<span style=""> </span>They do parasailing, and such a deal too… 700 Baht per kid ($23 each).<span style=""> </span>Each of them got a 20 minute ride, out around some smaller islands, <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHzotmTQ_I/AAAAAAAABeE/Id6GuO05QNc/s1600/IMG_0516.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHzotmTQ_I/AAAAAAAABeE/Id6GuO05QNc/s200/IMG_0516.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557991295912461298" border="0" /></a>and managed to land safely back on the “launching pad” raft.<span style=""> </span>Lupin was so light that they sent an extra boy up with her to add some weight…. He just grabbed on, dangling from the slings, and upon takeoff, scrambled up into the rigging to sit above her harness.<span style=""> </span>They all came down smiling and giggling and squealing with joy! <span style=""> </span>Fantasy fulfilled, and on the first day at <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH4DkoAnSI/AAAAAAAABe8/Oe3tWX28MrQ/s1600/IMG_0748.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH4DkoAnSI/AAAAAAAABe8/Oe3tWX28MrQ/s200/IMG_0748.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557996155406687522" border="0" /></a>the beach! </p> <p class="MsoNormal"> The motorbike bit has also been a blast! The girls were begging us to ride scooters or motorcycles in Nepal, but egads, <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHzox3pDiI/AAAAAAAABeM/E2boFj8on7Y/s1600/IMG_0532.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHzox3pDiI/AAAAAAAABeM/E2boFj8on7Y/s200/IMG_0532.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557991297058934306" border="0" /></a>Kathmandu traffic is pretty daunting with kids!<span style=""> </span>Even down in mellow rural Chitwan, we couldn’t find scooters to rent, as the entire town seemed to have only 3 rentals, all of them constantly booked up.<span style=""> </span>Here in Koh Chang, scooters are like an extra appendage… everyone rides them everywhere, sometimes a <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2AJZla6I/AAAAAAAABek/0fBQjRifZMM/s1600/IMG_0767.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2AJZla6I/AAAAAAAABek/0fBQjRifZMM/s200/IMG_0767.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557993897535564706" border="0" /></a>family of 4 on one unit.<span style=""> </span>It was so much more fun, efficient, and economical to zip around the island by scooter, as every pickup-truck taxi ride runs about 50 Baht per person… that’s 200 baht ($7) for the family one-way every single ride!<span style=""> </span>Yikes… but the scooters go for 150 ($5) per 24 hours, which must be 10 to 20 times cheaper than shared taxi rides.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> One great ride was up a quiet side <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHy9BR-EZI/AAAAAAAABd8/dmSElD9s1FI/s1600/IMG_0504.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHy9BR-EZI/AAAAAAAABd8/dmSElD9s1FI/s200/IMG_0504.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557990545281651090" border="0" /></a>valley, with a hike to Klong Phu waterfall…<span style=""> </span>plenty of tourists on the trail, but also plenty of tarzan vines, snakes, and cool jungle trees.<span style=""> </span>The slot-canyon waterfall was cool and <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2AuSM9oI/AAAAAAAABes/YMgRfolWpOg/s1600/IMG_0777.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSH2AuSM9oI/AAAAAAAABes/YMgRfolWpOg/s200/IMG_0777.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557993907436713602" border="0" /></a>exciting…<span style=""> </span>and it was so nice to swim in fresh water for once!<span style=""> </span>So far so good… parasailing, tropical waterfalls, fresh mangoes, motorcycle riding, snorkeling, rope swings over the sea, and luscious sunset swims every evening…<span style=""> </span>I think they’re loving Thailand so far!<span style=""> </span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-3883039847781778172011-01-03T07:26:00.001-08:002011-01-03T07:35:51.308-08:00Lounging in Koh ChangWhat a radical shift…. A total phase change… <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHrQTICFLI/AAAAAAAABc8/bY6RQiFAn-s/s1600/IMG_0462.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHrQTICFLI/AAAAAAAABc8/bY6RQiFAn-s/s200/IMG_0462.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557982080396301490" border="0" /></a> <p class="MsoNormal">We are “suddenly” on Koh Chang in the Gulf of Thailand.<span style=""> </span>Sipping a cool Singha beer, with the tingly fire of green curry and tom yum soup on my lips, while the kids take turns on a rope swing hanging from a palm tree over the waves.<span style=""> </span>I’m reclining on comfy triangular cushions with Karen, listening<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHso5cGgZI/AAAAAAAABdc/BgUrherkvGE/s1600/IMG_0494.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHso5cGgZI/AAAAAAAABdc/BgUrherkvGE/s200/IMG_0494.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557983602509513106" border="0" /></a> to smooth Thai pop love songs wafting from the bar. The girls have just located a friendly dog to play with, as well as a nice young Dutch boy to attempt communication...<span style=""> </span>A shirtless Sammy Hagar look alike is hanging <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHrQKUziOI/AAAAAAAABc0/6JYttsvVJ8M/s1600/IMG_0450.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHrQKUziOI/AAAAAAAABc0/6JYttsvVJ8M/s200/IMG_0450.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557982078033955042" border="0" /></a>out by the bar, and several European couples are also hanging out nearby, enjoying the sunset with lungfuls of tobacco… the dang French!<span style=""> </span>They all still <b style=""><i style="">smoke</i></b>!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">After a couple sweaty nights in our claustrophobic Bangkok guest house “cell,” it was wonderful to board a comfy bus bound for Trat…<span style=""> </span>We were headed for Koh Chang, a huge island down near the Cambodian border, to get some beach and snorkeling time before we head home to ski season…<span style=""> </span>Karen and I were here about <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHr_DXO41I/AAAAAAAABdE/DhtfVplnvck/s1600/IMG_0487.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHr_DXO41I/AAAAAAAABdE/DhtfVplnvck/s200/IMG_0487.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557982883618939730" border="0" /></a>12 years ago, back when the bumpy one-lane road only went part way around the island.<span style=""> </span>Back then we walked past the end of the dirt road to find several cheapo bamboo cottages for a few bucks a night.<span style=""> </span>Well nowadays this place has exploded with development!<span style=""> </span>There are hundreds of places to stay now, from plush 5-star resorts to a few hold-out crusty “budget” bungalows in the $20-30 range. The main road is now smooth &amp; freshly paved, and lined with countless souvenir &amp; dive shops, restaurants, pharmacies, and 7-Elevens…<span style=""> </span>There are ATMs <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHsoebcWRI/AAAAAAAABdU/NI5t72ritnY/s1600/Lupin%2Blaunch%2B2%2Bcropped.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 148px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHsoebcWRI/AAAAAAAABdU/NI5t72ritnY/s200/Lupin%2Blaunch%2B2%2Bcropped.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557983595258992914" border="0" /></a>everywhere!<span style=""> </span>Times change, especially <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHr_sBUExI/AAAAAAAABdM/Fps4ujV18Uk/s1600/IMG_0498.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TSHr_sBUExI/AAAAAAAABdM/Fps4ujV18Uk/s200/IMG_0498.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557982894532858642" border="0" /></a>with Thai island tourism!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Nonetheless, we walked 10 minutes down a quiet dirt side road, to find some mellow beach huts.<span style=""> </span>The kids are literally flipping out with glee, as we now have warm water, sand, shells, coconut palms, cool breezes, papaya, mango, and pad thai in abundance.<span style=""> </span>They don’t care about what this island “used to be like.” They are thrilled to just hang out, swim, and play on the beach for several days!<span style=""> </span>And so are we…<span style=""> </span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-8640204128043847852010-12-29T04:42:00.000-08:002010-12-29T04:55:05.684-08:00It’s ON the menu… Should we order one!?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Here in Thailand, and of course in Nepal, we’ve been savouring delicious food on a daily basis…<span style=""> </span>In the old days, there usually weren’t menus, and both Karen and I recall walking into the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRst1vwjpfI/AAAAAAAABcc/gklGL3kYJ6Y/s1600/IMG_7029.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRst1vwjpfI/AAAAAAAABcc/gklGL3kYJ6Y/s200/IMG_7029.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556084966668084722" border="0" /></a>kitchen to see what was available, then using lots of pointing and sign-language to order.<span style=""> </span>Nowadays, “English” menus are everywhere, and we’ve spotted a few pretty interesting options…. <p class="MsoNormal">We can start the day off nicely, according to this Thai menu, because “breakfast is the nice start to day. You can mix energize food for make good taste and a healthy.”<span style=""> </span>How about a cup of “Cffe” to go with your “Scream Bleed Egg on Toast.”<span style=""> </span>Or do you prefer “2 eggs any stole?”<span style=""> </span>I hear their “Dabble Egg Pupcake” is delicious! </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Fancy some fresh bakery items? How about a “Shinamon Rool, Brouned Role, or Aple Sturoll?”<span style=""> </span>If you’d like something sweeter, try their “Aple Croumble” and “Choklete Coreation,” and finish it off with a hot slice of “Choklete Cock” if you dare!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRst13xBERI/AAAAAAAABck/t8o6C5sfXGI/s1600/IMG_7037.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRst13xBERI/AAAAAAAABck/t8o6C5sfXGI/s200/IMG_7037.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556084968817496338" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Main courses?<span style=""> </span>Oh yeah baby…<span style=""> </span>every menu in Boudha has a “fing” section, which is, we think, a rice noodle type dish.<span style=""> </span>We often ate “Fing Tank,” and “Buff Fing.”<span style=""> </span>Others we didn’t try included, Spicey Flat Fing, Clocked Pork Fing, and Charpi non-Mushroom Fing.<span style=""> </span>A few others that we steered clear of were the Ox Tripe Gastric Wall, Red oil with Ear Piece, Crips Pork in Screen Bowel, Salad Tongue, and our all time favorite delicacy, Seweage Drop Egg in Soup!<span style=""> </span>I wonder how many foreigners order that one!?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Oh I’m sorry, you are a “vageterian.”<span style=""> </span>In Nepal, that’s no problem!<span style=""> </span>There are lots of vagetarians here… You can always go for the Vagetable Frird Race, 3-Silk Vage with Red Oil, Cassarool of Fish in Sour Vage, or Big Meat with Vage Sauce. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Had enough?<span style=""> </span>Still hungry!?<span style=""> </span>Chapattis are a staple all across south Asia, so you won’t be disappointed if you choose Chaparie fried Chapati, plain Chaparle per pics, or Egg-Fred Chaparle per pics.<span style=""> </span>I <b style=""><i style="">always</i></b> order my Chaparles by the Pics!<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsupFSDB8I/AAAAAAAABcs/fvH7Y6QNdAE/s1600/IMG_0318.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsupFSDB8I/AAAAAAAABcs/fvH7Y6QNdAE/s200/IMG_0318.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556085848619026370" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Do you like fish?<span style=""> </span>I love fish… Let’s try the Splash with Spice Fish!<span style=""> </span>Or perhaps the Dong-pu Fish with Thai Big Piece?<span style=""> </span>If you’re extra hungry you should definitely get a “Steam Hole Fish.”<span style=""> </span>If you catch one yourself, I’m sure they’ll ‘cock’ it for you!<span style=""> </span>Or ‘clock’ it?<span style=""> </span>Whatever….<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">I prefer a cold beer, but a “Hot Dronke” can be great after your meal… Karen loves sipping a nice Red Wine (by the Gass)… we never did order the “Spy Wine.”<span style=""> </span>Hmmm…</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Tomorrow I think we’ll splurge on a huge feast and share the Sir &amp; Turf, Fried Baby Cord with Chicken, Frid Meat Sice with Silk of Ckenich, and Baked Crap with Prawn!<span style=""> </span>I just <b style=""><i style="">love</i></b> that baked crap!<span style=""><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">Bon Appetit!<span style=""> </span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-49252244174280356682010-12-29T04:25:00.000-08:002011-01-03T07:38:08.838-08:00Leaving Nepal...<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Leaving Nepal was a really emotional event… After sinking our roots into this neighborhood, this culture and country, and our wonderful school, it was very <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRspvA2NfII/AAAAAAAABbs/5rTuux-6dAI/s1600/IMG_9989.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRspvA2NfII/AAAAAAAABbs/5rTuux-6dAI/s200/IMG_9989.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556080452949605506" border="0" /></a>difficult to uproot ourselves and depart.<span style=""> </span>Many times the kids said, “I really don’t want to leave… I mean, I miss home and I want to see everyone, but I wish we could stay here much longer!”<span style=""> </span>And Karen and I agreed…<span style=""> </span> <p class="MsoNormal">To give the kids a bit more time to spend with their friends, we organized a little farewell party at our guest house.<span style=""> </span>20 or so wonderful girls came over, and we enjoyed take-out pizza, cake, fruit, and loads of silly games together!<span style=""> </span>Our girls also taught them <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsqtzurdRI/AAAAAAAABb0/UHzHPwKHqug/s1600/IMG_9952.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsqtzurdRI/AAAAAAAABb0/UHzHPwKHqug/s200/IMG_9952.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556081531760112914" border="0" /></a>a new obsession which enthralled them for several hours -- weaving friendship bracelets!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The next morning (the day before departure) we were invited on the school’s winter holiday picnic…<span style=""> </span>We began at 6am (yes that’s right!) at the school to board 70 students on the buses, then drove to Godvari forest preserve to cook a picnic breakfast…<span style=""> </span>It was a wonderfully out-of-control event, with kids rampaging every which way, and stuffing their mouths with junk food from the moment we began.<span style=""> </span>Then we fed them all breakfast and tea until <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRspuy6SV5I/AAAAAAAABbk/JbAW7lBJ5l4/s1600/IMG_9967.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRspuy6SV5I/AAAAAAAABbk/JbAW7lBJ5l4/s200/IMG_9967.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556080449208604562" border="0" /></a>they were “full.” Minutes later they dug in their packs and pulled out more chips, candy, nuts, and cookies!<span style=""> </span>As Tsultrim said, “Oh yes Sir Paul, we Tibetans love to eat!” <span style=""> </span>Karen and I automatically kicked into Outdoor Ed. mode to harness some of that great energy, teaching them blob tag, elbow tag, etc…<span style=""> </span>Then we went down to the National Botanical Garden to “see the park.”<span style=""> </span>Again, it was chaotic and loud and totally unorganized, but the students<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>were all having a blast just being outdoors together.<span style=""> </span>At a lovely little waterfall in the Japanese <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsquM5nbZI/AAAAAAAABb8/NZGh-CSVFsI/s1600/IMG_0004.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsquM5nbZI/AAAAAAAABb8/NZGh-CSVFsI/s200/IMG_0004.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556081538516872594" border="0" /></a>garden section, some of the kids started a water fight, which soon involved plenty of teachers as well…<span style=""> </span>Such joyful playful fun times together!<span style=""> </span>Amidst the chaos, we did manage to spot several awesome birds, including male and female scarlet minivets!<span style=""> </span>There were also a few bright inquisitive students who continually grabbed my hand and pulled me aside, “sir Paul sir Paul, why does this fern plant have small spots on this leaf?”<span style=""> </span>or “Sir Paul, tell us the cactus and why is that spine so sharp?”<span style=""> </span>“why is this tree smooth, and that one so very rough?”<span style=""> </span>I would LOVE to have a nice small group of 10 or 12 of them out on an all day naturalist walk… they are so genuinely fascinated by the natural world,<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsrnjpPNJI/AAAAAAAABcE/yDv3epXX5rw/s1600/IMG_0012.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRsrnjpPNJI/AAAAAAAABcE/yDv3epXX5rw/s200/IMG_0012.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556082523874735250" border="0" /></a> but they rarely get out into it.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We packed that night, jamming things tightly into huge duffel bags, and ate one last gorgeous breakfast looking out over the stupa.<span style=""> </span>Then rushed off to the airport… extra early to ensure our selves plenty of window seats on the left side!<span style=""> </span>The flight was originally listed as an 8am departure, but was rescheduled for 1pm… but then there was a major technical delay.<span style=""> </span>So we enjoyed 5 or 6 extra hours in the airport, including a delicious complimentary buffet dalbaht, while I anxiously watched the clock and the setting sun… If we flew out just after dark, missing <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRssDSXVJcI/AAAAAAAABcU/UAIZ0nCrXsA/s1600/IMG_0033.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRssDSXVJcI/AAAAAAAABcU/UAIZ0nCrXsA/s200/IMG_0033.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5556083000272561602" border="0" /></a>the view of the Himalaya, I was going to have an absolute fit.<span style=""> </span>But fortunately we boarded right at sunset, and as we took off and ascended out of the filthy air of the Kathmandu Valley petri dish, we were blessed with just enough pink and orange light to see the alpenglow on all the giants…<span style=""> </span>Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Langtang, Dorje Lakpa, Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu… and Kanchenjunga way over on the border with Sikkim.<span style=""> </span>Phew!!!!<span style=""> </span>What a lovely and tearful farewell to our beloved Nepal.<span style=""> </span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-6155857221194642492010-12-25T10:02:00.001-08:002011-01-08T22:19:39.940-08:00Christmas In BangkokHoly Toledo, what a transition!<span style=""> </span>We were just bundled up with wool hats and fleece jackets in Kathmandu, and now we are sweating it out in steamy Bangkok!<span style=""> </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyTUs1AxI/AAAAAAAABao/GOp7b35kSnU/s1600/IMG_0088.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyTUs1AxI/AAAAAAAABao/GOp7b35kSnU/s200/IMG_0088.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554682497963721490" border="0" /></a>Our flight our of Nepal was delayed for about 5 hours, but with our hard-earned window seats, we barely took off before sunset…. Just with enough light to catch the alpenglow on the full Himalayan Panorama!<span style=""> </span>We could see, from west to east, Dhalagiri, Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, the Langtang Peaks, Dorje Lakpa, etc… then the faint light was just enough to spot ChoOyu, Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu…. And that big lump of white way off to the east?<span style=""> </span>Ahhh… Kachenjunga!<span style=""> </span> <p class="MsoNormal"> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY3Ei0B4fI/AAAAAAAABbQ/Y-7OdMtNssI/s1600/IMG_0152.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY3Ei0B4fI/AAAAAAAABbQ/Y-7OdMtNssI/s200/IMG_0152.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554687741612122610" border="0" /></a>Landing in Bangkok is a shocker…<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyUdh1KHI/AAAAAAAABa4/C_zovaBUWaA/s1600/IMG_0124.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyUdh1KHI/AAAAAAAABa4/C_zovaBUWaA/s200/IMG_0124.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554682517513382002" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span>After lil’ ol’ Kathmandu, the massive new sparkling BKK airport blew the kids mind!<span style=""> </span>As did the smooth roads, seatbelts, 7-elevens, and overall cleanliness.<span style=""> </span>They commented in the taxi ride, “this looks just like America!”<span style=""> </span>I did some late night Christmas Eve shopping, while the <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY3E3ZyloI/AAAAAAAABbY/9ci9kf1urYI/s1600/IMG_0327.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY3E3ZyloI/AAAAAAAABbY/9ci9kf1urYI/s200/IMG_0327.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554687747139212930" border="0" /></a>kids hung “stockings” on the towel rack with care.<span style=""> </span>Actually they were my old socks, tied on with some string… but functional!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> Christmas morning was sweaty but jolly, with the Canapary family joining us in our stuffy room for a wonderful gift exchange!<span style=""> </span>Sylvie’s highlight?<span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span>The ripe MANGO in the toe of her stocking!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyUHXh7gI/AAAAAAAABaw/O1__-15H5Bk/s1600/IMG_0120.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYyUHXh7gI/AAAAAAAABaw/O1__-15H5Bk/s200/IMG_0120.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554682511564598786" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> Then we set out to ride the river taxis around Bangkok, enjoying the breeze and proximity to water, and avoiding the notorious traffic jams.<span style=""> </span>Amazing temples….<span style=""> </span>Luscious street food at every corner…<span style=""> </span>nice cold beer….<span style=""> We enjoyed the intricate </span><span style="">temples of Wat Pho, including the humongous </span><span style="">golden reclining Buddha, then found a fine </span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY0Wjx_UPI/AAAAAAAABbI/1g68_Ufw-uc/s1600/IMG_0405.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY0Wjx_UPI/AAAAAAAABbI/1g68_Ufw-uc/s200/IMG_0405.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554684752574763250" border="0" /></a><span style="">riverside </span><span style="">restaurant to enjoy our Christmas dinner.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Green Curry, Tom Yum soup, fresh guava and coconut juice, spicy green papaya salad, Pad Thai..... aaaaahhhhh, what a feast! We sure miss our families back home, but it was a wonderful celebration with loved ones over here. Then back to the hotel room for the 3rd (...or 4th</span><span style="">?) shower rinse of the day! Enter room, strip, enter shower &amp; rinse, lay on bed under ceiling fan, evaporate... rinse.... repeat....<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">The most unusual and appreciated Christmas present, believe it or not, was the "Fish Spa" treatment that we gave to the girls! They wanted to try it sooooo badly, so what the heck, we'll buy a 10 <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY0WaPOgkI/AAAAAAAABbA/a8Q-c3pL1Jw/s1600/IMG_0413.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRY0WaPOgkI/AAAAAAAABbA/a8Q-c3pL1Jw/s200/IMG_0413.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554684750013039170" border="0" /></a>minute nibble! You get your feet washed, and then sit on benches with your legs in an aquarium. And no, I am not making this up... the little fish are "dead skin eating fish," and they really go to town on old smelly feet. Our kids fed those fish well! Totally ticklish, but they LOVED it, and are begging to go back again for the full half hour option! So that's the Christmas news from Thailand! Hope y'all are cozy and celebrating with loved ones.<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-6245571471045141272010-12-25T09:27:00.000-08:002010-12-25T09:58:57.542-08:00Jungle Adventures in Chitwan<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->We’d promised the girls an “elephant safari,” and <b style="">Chitwan</b><b style=""> National<span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span>Park</b> was the place to deliver!<span style=""> </span>After a wonderful 3-day run down the Seti River, we crammed into a local bus for the<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_suGgCI/AAAAAAAABZw/TB5L4U8qtRs/s1600/IMG_9567.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_suGgCI/AAAAAAAABZw/TB5L4U8qtRs/s200/IMG_9567.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554677762767618082" border="0" /></a> quick ride to Tadi Bazaar… then a short bumpy jeep ride to Sauraha, directly across the Rapti River from the N.P. boundary.<span style=""> </span>Sauraha is Chitwan’s main town for do-it-yourself explorations in the park, and has tons of cheap (…<i style="">and fancy</i>) hotels, gift shops, guide agencies, and all the typical backpacker amenities.<span style=""> </span>Of course, we would have preferred to stay at Tiger Tops or one of the other plush all-inclusive safari camps deep inside the park itself, but at $300 per night <i style="">per person</i>, it was just a bit high for our budget.<span style=""> </span> <p class="MsoNormal">We had 3 full days to spend here, and decided to do whatever it took (aside from staying at Tiger Tops!) to show the kids as much wildlife and birdlife as possible….<span style=""> </span>Multiple elephant safaris?<span style=""> </span>What the heck!<span style=""> </span>Merry Christmas girls!!!<span style=""> </span>So the first task was to avoid the many pushy guides and agencies in town, and find the best birding guide.<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvDLaLyHI/AAAAAAAABaA/zVmAlBehBlU/s1600/IMG_9472.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvDLaLyHI/AAAAAAAABaA/zVmAlBehBlU/s200/IMG_9472.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554678922056812658" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span>It only took a couple of stops…<span style=""> </span>United Jungle Guide Services has a few offices in town, and when I strolled inside to ask about finding Chitwan’s most experienced birders, Anil was working on his Facebook page.<span style=""> </span>He was editing some photos from a few weeks ago of 2 Brits who he himself had taken birding, and asked if I knew who they were.<span style=""> </span>Nope… didn’t recognize their faces, but I <b style=""><i style="">did</i></b> recognize their names (Carol &amp; Tim Inskipp) as the authors of all the best birding guidebooks for India, Nepal, Pakistan, etc.!<span style=""> </span>I’d found our man!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Anil set us up with several wonderful outings, and truly provided us with expert guides! <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYr4em8WKI/AAAAAAAABZA/6BldlGw3tag/s1600/IMG_9115.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYr4em8WKI/AAAAAAAABZA/6BldlGw3tag/s200/IMG_9115.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554675439697156258" border="0" /></a>We did a full day jungle jeep drive on our 1<sup>st</sup> day, which allowed us to see a large amount of the park.<span style=""> </span>Most visitors do a half-day drive, but therefore only get half as far into the bush… and with 10 or 15 jeeps driving that same “1<sup>st</sup> half” roundtrip, there is a lot more noise, disturbance, and less wildlife!<span style=""> </span>Our driver was also an hour late, which at first was upsetting, but it turned out to be a blessing.<span style=""> </span>By leaving an hour after the crowds of other jeeps, we had the dirt roads to ourselves for several hours and saw heaps of birds, deer, crocs, a wild boar and other critters.<span style=""> </span>Krishna took us through many diverse habitats, and really worked hard to spot a wide <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYr4wdb0tI/AAAAAAAABZI/p4uupIJoZbQ/s1600/IMG_9160.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYr4wdb0tI/AAAAAAAABZI/p4uupIJoZbQ/s200/IMG_9160.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554675444489114322" border="0" /></a>variety of<span style=""> </span>birds…<span style=""> </span>We visited the gharial captive breeding center, a critical facility that is trying to save this rare crocodile.<span style=""> </span>The kids oohed and aaahhhhed at the “cute” reptiles!<span style=""> </span>A lunch break at a truly remote and somewhat ramshackle observation platform gave us a full 45 minutes to quietly watch a one-horned Rhino and her 2 offspring slowly graze by…<span style=""> </span>The “baby” was about 6 months, and the 2-3 year old was still hanging around the pair.<span style=""> </span>Momma was pretty pushy and aggressive with her “teenager,” grazing together but firmly keeping it away from the baby.<span style=""> </span>It was<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYst8j9tYI/AAAAAAAABZY/-897xeDHPaE/s1600/IMG_9204.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYst8j9tYI/AAAAAAAABZY/-897xeDHPaE/s200/IMG_9204.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554676358270793090" border="0" /></a> such a thrill to catch glimpses of these massive creatures, just 100 yds. away, so well camouflaged in the dense elephant grass!<span style=""> </span>The afternoon brought us past several oxbow lakes, and we finally exited at Kasara, the park HQ, to drive at higher speed outside the park back to Sauraha.<span style=""> </span>This allowed us to linger longer inside the further away less-visited parts of Chitwan.<span style=""> </span>On the way back, in the buffer zone “community forests,” we spotted our best Rhino yet…. Just 10 yards away in a creek drainage.<span style=""> </span>We parked on the tiny bridge, with the engine humming just in case, close enough see her<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYstoHE1kI/AAAAAAAABZQ/hV8mDBiE3BQ/s1600/IMG_9230.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYstoHE1kI/AAAAAAAABZQ/hV8mDBiE3BQ/s200/IMG_9230.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554676352780916290" border="0" /></a> nostrils flaring and hear her sniffing us!<span style=""> </span>What amazing animals!<span style=""> </span>As a sweet unexpected treat, we enjoyed the “huge red ball sunset,” and the alpenglow on the Himalaya, about 80 or 90 miles to the north…. We could pick out Annapurna, Manaslu, and Dhalagiri, where we trekked just a few months ago!<span style=""> </span>Ahhhhhh…. So lovely!!!!<span style=""> </span>And it was pretty amazing to be seeing such an astounding span of altitude, viewing the 27,000-foot peaks from the 500’ Terai!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The next day we decided to take an hour-long canoe ride, and visit the elephant breeding center.<span style=""> </span>Drifting in the dugout canoe down<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_FCJ_TI/AAAAAAAABZg/U1ByqA7pC24/s1600/IMG_9247.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_FCJ_TI/AAAAAAAABZg/U1ByqA7pC24/s200/IMG_9247.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554677752114314546" border="0" /></a> the Budhi Rapti gave us up-close views of crocodiles and gorgeous birds like herons, egrets, storks and several species of iridescent kingfishers.<span style=""> </span>The birds don’t seem to recognize a floating boat full of humans as a threat, so they rarely flew away as we drifted by.<span style=""> </span>Had we been on foot, we would have spooked them…<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Elephants can move safely and efficiently through the jungle, and the breeding center raises and trains them for jungle patrols, park service work, wildlife surveys &amp; research, and for tourist rides!<span style=""> </span>The kids literally flipped-out over the baby elephants, and are already making plans to study zoology &amp; “elephantology” so they can work with elephants someday. <span style=""> </span>The 2-year old brothers<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_WWLyYI/AAAAAAAABZo/CC5q9miBue4/s1600/IMG_9307.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYt_WWLyYI/AAAAAAAABZo/CC5q9miBue4/s200/IMG_9307.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554677756761721218" border="0" /></a> living here are apparently the first surviving pair of twin elephant babies born anywhere in the world…<span style=""> </span>pretty cool!<span style=""> </span>After the elephants all headed out to graze in the jungle with their parents and trainers, we took a few hours to stroll back to town.<span style=""> </span>Tharu villages are scattered around the area, surrounded with brilliant yellow mustard flowers that they harvest for the oil.<span style=""> </span>The houses and barns are built with mud walls plastered on a framework of grass that’s harvested once a year from inside the Park.<span style=""> </span>We saw bundles of elephant grass everywhere, drying in the sun, waiting t<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvDWchkXI/AAAAAAAABaI/5DKA2m3xXL8/s1600/IMG_9545.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvDWchkXI/AAAAAAAABaI/5DKA2m3xXL8/s200/IMG_9545.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554678925019418994" border="0" /></a>o be used for walls and to repair and re-thatch their roofs.<span style=""> </span>Thousands of cuuuuute baby animals thrilled our kids, and made the miles roll by quickly.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">That evening we actually got to board our elephants, rocking &amp; swaying through the community forest for couple of wonderful hours… again, we saw tons of birds, and a couple of species of deer; chital &amp; barking deer.<span style=""> </span>You ride on a square wooden “howdah” perched 10-12 feet high on the elephants’ back.<span style=""> </span>The “mahout” sits on the elephant’s neck, and drives it by pushing his bare feet into the huge floppy ears.<span style=""> </span>The occasional corrective whack on the elephant’s head with a stick disturbed our kids, but our mahout was relatively gentle with “Ranikoli.”<span style=""> </span>The constant wave-like swaying and rocking made me wonder if people ever get “elephant-sick.”<span style=""> </span>Do mahouts ever take Dramamine?<span style=""> </span>We thoroughly enjoyed the meditative swaying pace of the elephant, and the kids were quieter than usual, carefully scanning the thick vegetation for deer and birds from their elevated perch….<span style=""> </span>What a ride!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Sunset from the back of the largest land mammal on the planet puts everything into perspective. <span style=""> </span>It seemed as if we could see the curve of the earth from up there as the big red ball settled into the soup for the night.<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvCirxp5I/AAAAAAAABZ4/CwGtR0Ebo7w/s1600/IMG_9271.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYvCirxp5I/AAAAAAAABZ4/CwGtR0Ebo7w/s200/IMG_9271.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554678911124744082" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">On our last day we had planned to do another morning canoe float in a new area, and then have a more relaxed afternoon…. but several of the best experiences were yet to come!<span style=""> </span>The canoe ride down the Jan Khola (?) was even better than the first, with far more exquisite birds and surprisingly clean clear water!<span style=""> </span>The kingfishers were stunning in the morning light… my new favorite color is “kingfisher blue!”<span style=""> </span>There were also several crocs, including a 6-footer who slipped into the river, swam straight towards our canoe, then disappeared under the water grasses directly under us….<span style=""> </span>“That was REALLY cool… but a little scary too,” said Sylvie.<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwiEJE-6I/AAAAAAAABag/-UaB9FRU2vc/s1600/IMG_9802.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwiEJE-6I/AAAAAAAABag/-UaB9FRU2vc/s200/IMG_9802.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554680552193588130" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We got back to Sauraha just in time to see the mahouts bringing their elephants down to the river for their daily bath, and everyone is welcome to join in for a good scrub… for 50 rupees!<span style=""> </span>The kids went bonkers, and gushed repeatedly about this being “the BEST thing I’ve ever EVER done in my life!!!!”<span style=""> </span>They were required to wear huge life jackets for “safety,” but that was the only precaution…<span style=""> </span>this is definitely not OSHA approved!<span style=""> </span>3 or 4 people scrambled up on the elephant’s back as they kneeled on <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwhw8mPRI/AAAAAAAABaY/LIMPPP78Cj8/s1600/IMG_9823.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwhw8mPRI/AAAAAAAABaY/LIMPPP78Cj8/s200/IMG_9823.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554680547040967954" border="0" /></a>the ground.<span style=""> </span>The kids struggled to cling to each other and to its backbone as the beast lumbered and jerked up to it’s feet, then tromped on into the river…<span style=""> </span>then it was splashing, laughing and elephants spraying everyone with their trunks for an hour.<span style=""> </span>Eventually the animals would lay down in the river (more like squatted and fell over into the water), and the riders tumbled off too.<span style=""> </span>Then they got to scrub the bristly elephant hides and backs with stones they’d picked up off the riverbed.<span style=""> </span>Having such playful &amp; close physical contact with those massive creatures made our <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwhgQqG5I/AAAAAAAABaQ/50yZnbvbJms/s1600/IMG_9817.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRYwhgQqG5I/AAAAAAAABaQ/50yZnbvbJms/s200/IMG_9817.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5554680542561704850" border="0" /></a>kids giddy with joy!<span style=""> </span>I was a bit worried one might roll over and squash someone, but no one got hurt… And we were the only ones around for an hour or so… until a huge crowd of 30 Nepali teenage boys showed up, stripped to their black undies, and rampaged around the river screaming, splashing, and tossing rocks and yelling as they pushed each other off of elephant backs.<span style=""> </span>The final judgment, from Dawn &amp; Maya, was “that was even better than swimming with dolphins, and <b style=""><i style="">that</i></b> cost us $170!”</p><p class="MsoNormal">On our last evening, Anil and Krishna took us on an evening bird walk<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-14608483680870611922010-12-22T09:20:00.000-08:002010-12-22T10:11:35.075-08:00Rafting the Seti RiverOur time in Nepal is winding down… and we are having such mixed feelings about leaving!<span style=""> </span>As a grand finale, we planned to raft <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI3lUlUtsI/AAAAAAAABX8/5sE0O-tnUFg/s1600/IMG_8785.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI3lUlUtsI/AAAAAAAABX8/5sE0O-tnUFg/s200/IMG_8785.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553562404821186242" border="0" /></a>through the “middle hills” down to the flat Terai, then visit Chitwan National Park to view wildlife.<span style=""> </span>We chose one of the milder “easy” rivers, the SETI, as other options could be quite chilly in late December! It’s known as having “remarkably warm water,” which became a running joke during out trip!<span style=""> </span>When the sun was out, it was indeed balmy warm and quite comfortable…. But nights and mornings were quite misty and chilly.<span style=""> </span>We were so thankful to have brought our long underwear, fuzzy hats, fleece layers, and warm sleeping bags!<span style=""> No one </span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI3lhSc3GI/AAAAAAAABYE/besZ_xN4fZY/s1600/IMG_8817.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI3lhSc3GI/AAAAAAAABYE/besZ_xN4fZY/s200/IMG_8817.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553562408231689314" border="0" /></a><span style="">went swimming voluntarily!!!<br /></span><div style="border-width: 1pt medium; border-style: solid none;"> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;">We rode a Pokhara bound bus, but off-loaded with our gear at the Madi Khola bridge near Damauli.<span style=""> </span>We helped our crew haul all the various and sundry (and heavy!) boating chunks down to the river, and spent an hour or two pumping up &amp; rigging the boats.<span style=""> </span>As all river runners know, it is such a fine moment to float away from a road bridge… heading downstream….<span style=""> </span>leaving noise and chaos behind, and knowing you won’t see cars, roads, or big towns for a few days!<span style=""> </span>We immediately floated through a massive <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI4Pmdoh0I/AAAAAAAABYM/Mz9uI4HKs0o/s1600/IMG_8853.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI4Pmdoh0I/AAAAAAAABYM/Mz9uI4HKs0o/s200/IMG_8853.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553563131175274306" border="0" /></a>tangle of boulders, and then joined with the Seti river.<span style=""> </span>This river flows through a once remote canyon, with fairly pristine jungle on both sides…<span style=""> </span>of course, there is now a rough vehicle road being built along one bank, so the canyon experience will be changing.<span style=""> </span>For now, however, it was a wonderfully quiet, calm float, with a few exciting splashy Class 2 &amp; 3 rapids to enjoy!<span style=""> </span>There is also fantastic bird-watching, as many high altitude species spend their winters right here on the banks of the Seti.<span style=""> </span>We saw many wall creepers, plumbeous water redstarts, white-capped water <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI4QDPk_aI/AAAAAAAABYU/JsoofJ__RLI/s1600/IMG_8866.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI4QDPk_aI/AAAAAAAABYU/JsoofJ__RLI/s200/IMG_8866.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553563138900950434" border="0" /></a>redstarts, wagtails, kingfishers, forktails, egrets, ruddy shelducks, and even a few Egyptian vultures!<span style=""> </span>Our campsites were on huge <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI-efbj4PI/AAAAAAAABYs/KxDLGWD8_9I/s1600/IMG_8882.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI-efbj4PI/AAAAAAAABYs/KxDLGWD8_9I/s200/IMG_8882.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553569984055337202" border="0" /></a>sandy beaches… huge because the water has receded so much since the summer monsoon rains.<span style=""> </span>Our wonderful river guides (Krishna, Gopal, Subha &amp; Milhan) set up our tents, cooked amazing meals, and danced by the fire each night!<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI8bo2J5DI/AAAAAAAABYc/-lZgoM9B6H8/s1600/IMG_8873.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI8bo2J5DI/AAAAAAAABYc/-lZgoM9B6H8/s200/IMG_8873.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553567736019936306" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;">On the 3<sup>rd</sup> day, we laughed through the last of the bouncy rapids and suddenly spilled out onto the flat Terai, leaving the Mahabharat hills behind. It was a wonderful transition from the foothills of the Himalaya, to the plains of India… our remote Seti River flowed into the road-side Trisuli River, then merged with the Kali Gandaki at the sacred confluence of Devghat. Now this wide slow-moving water-way is called the Narayani, and we paddled for a couple more hours to reach Narayanghat.<span style=""> </span>We just pulled up to <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI8b3QIzRI/AAAAAAAABYk/z0Rkj4TyozE/s1600/IMG_8991.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI8b3QIzRI/AAAAAAAABYk/z0Rkj4TyozE/s200/IMG_8991.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553567739887013138" border="0" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI-e06vkyI/AAAAAAAABY0/PHMpbxp6UcY/s1600/IMG_8989.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRI-e06vkyI/AAAAAAAABY0/PHMpbxp6UcY/s200/IMG_8989.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553569989823271714" border="0" /></a>the edge of a small city, broke down the gear on concrete steps (ghats), walked up to a street and boarded a bus!<span style=""> </span>Public transport rafting shuttles…<span style=""> </span>Waving goodbye to our smiling guides, we were off to the jungles of Chitwan!<span style=""> </span></p> </div>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-88716725878977931762010-12-22T07:46:00.000-08:002010-12-22T09:17:53.677-08:00Trekking in Langtang - part 2<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Once we climbed up to Kyangjin Gompa, the ridiculous mountain scenery really <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIozBtzyOI/AAAAAAAABWc/DUFloEuMSzc/s1600/IMG_7898.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIozBtzyOI/AAAAAAAABWc/DUFloEuMSzc/s200/IMG_7898.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553546147600255202" border="0" /></a>kicked in!<span style=""> </span>This high alpine valley is surrounded by 20,000+ foot peaks… Langtang Lirung, Langtang 2, Ganchenpo, Yubra Himal, Yala Peak, Kinshung……<span style=""> </span>Huge white glaciers, groaning active icefalls, jagged fluted snow ridges with occasional avalanches whooshing down… You can just bundle up and sit outside, hot milk tea in hand, and gaze in any direction at the marvelous scene.<span style=""> </span>Yaks wander and graze on the nearby “hills,” and local lodge owners chase down their horses and ponies to pack ‘em up with a load to carry up or down the canyon.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIozSKxGII/AAAAAAAABWk/m2cmMV8MUaE/s1600/IMG_8063.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIozSKxGII/AAAAAAAABWk/m2cmMV8MUaE/s200/IMG_8063.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553546152016681090" border="0" /></a><div style="border-width: 1pt medium; border-style: solid none;"> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> We stayed 3 nights at Kyangjin, because of the fine scenery and great dayhikes in the area.<span style=""> </span>At over 12,500 feet, we had to be careful of altitude sickness, so we ascended a bit slower than the “average” trekker.<span style=""> </span>Spending a night each at Syabrubensi, Syarpagaon, Ghoretabela, and Langtang allowed us to ascend about 1,500 feet per night.<span style=""> </span>Our girls did great, with just a minor headache or two… probably from dehydration, not altitude!<span style=""> </span>We really had to force them to drink lots of water!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> A favorite dayhike climbs up 3,000 feet to Kyangjin Ri, a nearby 15,500 foot “hill” that’s decorated with many prayer flags.<span style=""> </span>From the summit you can spot a few peaks over the border in Tibet, as well as get close-up views of the Langtang peaks and Yubra Himal icefall.<span style=""> </span>From a <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIqoy2hAeI/AAAAAAAABW0/oRvh10sRteg/s1600/IMG_8072.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIqoy2hAeI/AAAAAAAABW0/oRvh10sRteg/s200/IMG_8072.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553548170834805218" border="0" /></a>science teacher’s perspective, the most amazing sight was the textbook-perfect set of lateral moraines flanking the receding glacier far below.<span style=""> </span>Karen and I were up here ten years ago, with baby Eliza in a backpack… we look forward to viewing our old slides from that trip, and comparing the change in glacier length.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> It is also amazing to see the growth in the “village” of Kyangjin Gompa.<span style=""> </span>This place was originally a seasonal settlement, only inhabited in summertime when the yaks and other livestock are grazed up in the highest grassy slopes.<span style=""> </span>10 to 12 years ago, there <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIseZXZEtI/AAAAAAAABW8/itu7Dr2hT4w/s1600/IMG_7996.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIseZXZEtI/AAAAAAAABW8/itu7Dr2hT4w/s200/IMG_7996.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553550191217939154" border="0" /></a>were just a few small lodges in Kyangjin Gompa, and we felt a bit guilty to stay in the fancy new lodge with the big windows and “sunroom.”<span style=""> </span>Today, that very same lodge looks old and tired, and is difficult to locate in the forest of 20 newer taller hotels that have sprung up everywhere!<span style=""> </span>Again, we’ll have to check our photos from the late 90’s to compare the growth.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> Trekking in December has also been a wonderful thing!<span style=""> </span>There are just a few groups and individuals on the trail, and most of the lodges are virtually empty.<span style=""> </span>In the late October/early November <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIqohKIieI/AAAAAAAABWs/MGB76Nu0LgQ/s1600/IMG_7955.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIqohKIieI/AAAAAAAABWs/MGB76Nu0LgQ/s200/IMG_7955.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553548166085249506" border="0" /></a>high season, it’s sometimes difficult to find a place to stay, especially with a family of nine!<span style=""> </span>But up at Kyangjin, with such a proliferation of lodges, I can’t imagine that they <b style=""><i style="">ever</i></b> fill up!<span style=""> </span>How can all those small businesses and tea houses survive?<span style=""> </span>The lack of trekkers has been great, but it also means that the proprietors of <b style=""><i style="">every</i></b> local restaurant, village inn, or tea shop that we pass, literally <b style=""><i style="">beg</i></b> us to stop in and stay.<span style=""> </span>“Hello Sir! Please stop to take tea!?”<span style=""> </span>“Hello Miss, do you try yak cheese?”<span style=""> </span>“Please looking my shop take biscuit something?”<span style=""> </span>It got a <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIseqDwGiI/AAAAAAAABXE/wempAI7BGz8/s1600/IMG_8191.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIseqDwGiI/AAAAAAAABXE/wempAI7BGz8/s200/IMG_8191.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553550195698965026" border="0" /></a>bit tiresome, but it’s totally understandable that they are aching for some income during the low season… and here comes a group of NINE people down the trail (<i style="">ka-ching!)</i> with kids who might beg for chocolate, biscuits, and tea!!!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> The December weather has been stellar!<span style=""> </span>It is below freezing every night, but we keep warm in our polypro long-johns, fuzzy hats and down jackets.<span style=""> </span>Each day the sunshine brings balmy temps, and we sometimes hike in a single T-shirt… but in the shade, it’s chilly!<span style=""> </span>Most of our guest houses fire up a wood stove in the evenings to boil water, as well as warm up the eating area.<span style=""> </span>A few times we just hung out with the staff, and ate in the kitchen, as it was the warmest room.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> The other amazing dayhike we did <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIuatfNtgI/AAAAAAAABXM/CaC3Mfk3ZzM/s1600/IMG_8188.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIuatfNtgI/AAAAAAAABXM/CaC3Mfk3ZzM/s200/IMG_8188.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553552326923236866" border="0" /></a>upstream of Kyangjin Gompa was an “ice-frenzy” stroll towards Langshisha Kharka.<span style=""> </span>We wandered along, off trail, letting the kids lead the way.<span style=""> </span>They led us directly to ice, ice and more ICE!<span style=""> </span>Frozen creeks, puddles, and ponds… <span style=""> </span>The main river was awesome with its frozen edges, and amazing ice clumps and stalactites forming on the river banks and boulders. The kids had a “smashing” time busting ice with their walking sticks, and tossing boulders here and there… We also had to do some tricky route-finding on the frozen alluvial fans, to<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIua4T_PoI/AAAAAAAABXU/nic1eQEwAhQ/s1600/IMG_8186.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIua4T_PoI/AAAAAAAABXU/nic1eQEwAhQ/s200/IMG_8186.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553552329828941442" border="0" /></a> avoid breaking through the crust into the moving water below.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> It was hard to say goodbye to Kyangjin Gompa, and lose our hard-earned altitude, but returning to the jungly oak/rhododendron forest was wonderful.<span style=""> </span>On our last morning, a helicopter flew in with some photographers who are working on a new coffee table book about the Himalaya.<span style=""> </span>They were so kind and interested in our kids, and invited them in for a bit of “pilot practice.”<span style=""> </span>The kids LOVED it, but the fun event foiled our planned early alpine start!<span style=""> </span>We finally left the helicopter scene and did a super-long downhill day all the way to Lama Hotel.<span style=""> </span>That covered about 2.5 days of uphill trekking in a single descent, and, at our leisurely bird-watching, yak-petting, red panda <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIwfjfHNWI/AAAAAAAABXc/sRVeZMB4rII/s1600/IMG_8409.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIwfjfHNWI/AAAAAAAABXc/sRVeZMB4rII/s200/IMG_8409.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553554609161057634" border="0" /></a>searching, ice-busting pace, it took quite a long time.<span style=""> </span>We eventually had to pull out the headlamps and finish in the dark… fortunately it’s December, and darkness hits at just 6pm. Our “late night arrival” wasn’t <i style="">that</i> late…</p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;">Our final 2 days dropped down into the deep Langtang khola canyon, through jungly bamboo forests and dripping vine-covered trees… and then back UP, of course, to Thulo Syabru, a wonderful ridge-back village with stupendous views from both sides of each house.<span style=""> </span>From the <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIwgNYl2LI/AAAAAAAABXk/3SXROGDpDZw/s1600/IMG_8485.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIwgNYl2LI/AAAAAAAABXk/3SXROGDpDZw/s200/IMG_8485.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553554620407994546" border="0" /></a>front windows or balconies, you can gaze back up towards Langtang, and out the back window your view is the entire Ganesh Himal and a few snowy peaks on the Tibetan border.<span style=""> </span>We LOVED Thulo Syabru and our wonderful hosts at the Hotel Lama.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"> Our final day was an exquisite traverse from Thulo Syabru, through Brabal, and finally down to the dusty road (ack!) at Barkhu.<span style=""> </span>This bit of trail, once the main entry point from Dhunche to start the Langtang trek, now sees much less traffic… and that’s a real shame! It passes through such lovely forest, crosses lush <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIyO89mSjI/AAAAAAAABXs/bGlGCUQARYw/s1600/IMG_4989.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIyO89mSjI/AAAAAAAABXs/bGlGCUQARYw/s200/IMG_4989.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553556522965289522" border="0" /></a>verdant creeks and bridges, and surprises you constantly with dramatic views… Most trekkers head both up and down the more direct and “efficient” route along the river canyon from Syabrubensi, but doing that misses our two favorite sections of trail!<span style=""> </span>By far our favorite, less traveled, more scenic routes in Langtang were the high trails above the dark cold canyon bottom.<span style=""> </span>The Syarpagaon traverse, and the Thulo Syabru/Dhunche traverse rank up there on our “top ten list” of sweetest trekking days in the Himalaya.<span style=""> </span><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;">Oh yes… as a fine conclusion to an exquisite trek, we were <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIyPO_llxI/AAAAAAAABX0/-bFa2nTJBsc/s1600/IMG_5086.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIyPO_llxI/AAAAAAAABX0/-bFa2nTJBsc/s200/IMG_5086.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553556527805470482" border="0" /></a>rewarded with the bus ride from H#%*@ back to Kathmandu!<span style=""> </span>The usual 8 hour puke-fest became a 13-hour marathon, as the cliff-hanger road was blocked by a broken down truck.<span style=""> </span>We had to walk around that mess, follow the dusty road for several miles to find food, then leap back onto our passing bus later in the day as it roared through Kalikasthan…<span style=""> </span>The driver was a bit angry and annoyed with the whole thing, and drove like a maniac, trying to make up the lost time.<span style=""> </span>It was a wild ride!<span style=""> </span>A much better option, if we’d had more time, would be to walk all the way back to Kathmandu via Helambu…<span style=""> </span>Next time!<span style=""> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="border: medium none; padding: 0in;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> </p><div style="border-width: 1pt medium; border-style: solid none; border-color: windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 1pt 0in 25pt;"> </div> </div>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-91739900766207235122010-12-14T08:24:00.000-08:002010-12-14T08:28:17.702-08:00Rafting to ChitwanJust back from the Langtang Trek, and we're packed up for an early departure tomorrow to raft the Seti River. We'll be on the water for 3 days, camping on remote beaches, then will spill out of the Himalayan foothills onto the vast plains (Terai). We hope to ride elephants, spot rhinos, paddle past crocodiles, and go birding each morning. We won't be bringing the laptop on the river, so we'll be updating in a week or so... Time is just flying by now... It's hard to believe that in 10 days we'll be leaving Nepal.Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-57763931034710201622010-12-13T17:54:00.000-08:002010-12-22T08:17:23.552-08:00A December Trek to LangtangWe just returned from an incredible 10 day hike through the Langtang Valley with our good friends from Yosemite. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQedPMNb_rI/AAAAAAAABVk/Zj_8v0drY6s/s1600/IMG_8000.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQedPMNb_rI/AAAAAAAABVk/Zj_8v0drY6s/s200/IMG_8000.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5550577950058610354" border="0" /></a>Tomorrow we are off to raft the Seti River for several days to Chitwan National Park for some elephant riding and rhino spotting... I'll try to summarize the trek before we head out of town again... and before the power cuts out!<br /><br />Langtang is a high alpine valley "just north" of Kathmandu, right up against the Tibetan border. As the crow flies, it is one of the "closest" treks to Kathmandu, but the boulder-strewn winding dirt road, and 10+ hour bus ride, really make it less accessible and visited than either the Annapurna or Everest regions. This is <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbrESxyaOI/AAAAAAAABU8/6C92Orry-hI/s1600/IMG_4604.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbrESxyaOI/AAAAAAAABU8/6C92Orry-hI/s200/IMG_4604.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5550382049773381858" border="0" /></a>my 3rd time trekking up in Langtang, and Eliza &amp; Karen's 2nd, and the area still surprises us with its amazing scenery, abundant wildlife, and quiet "undiscovered" trail options...<br /><br />The "road" to Dunche and Syabrubensi is famously nauseating, so we opted to skip the crowded local bus &amp; hire a Jeep to get us to the trailhead. Uncle Shankar got us the largest 8-seater he could find, and we crammed all 9 of us into the vehicle. This is another advantage of traveling with kids, as 5 of our group are children... very easy to stuff them into small spaces! We'll likely take the bus back home after the trek.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbrEsSNDRI/AAAAAAAABVE/DI6QRh-cOoQ/s1600/IMG_4610.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbrEsSNDRI/AAAAAAAABVE/DI6QRh-cOoQ/s200/IMG_4610.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5550382056620231954" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbu5Am-alI/AAAAAAAABVM/dCD2L_0qAdQ/s1600/IMG_4672.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbu5Am-alI/AAAAAAAABVM/dCD2L_0qAdQ/s200/IMG_4672.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5550386253964143186" border="0" /></a>You can begin hiking up to Langtang on any of 3 trails. The most popular seems to be the direct route from Syabrubensi, following the Langtang Khola (river) right up the bottom of the cold shady canyon. As this is the typical option, we chose to avoid it... Far more enjoyable, from my perspective, is the sunny south-facing slope through Kangjim and Syarpagaon. Ten years ago when we were last here, neither of these villages had any real lodges or tea-houses, but now there are a few simple places to stay. The thing we appreciate the most is that these are authentic functioning villages, with a few recent lodges. On some of the main trekking routes, so many clusters of new lodges have sprung up in "convenient" locations to trekkers. We much prefer to stay in the "wrong" places (according to the standard guidebook itineraries), because the village experience is so much more fascinating. So.... up the steeep pine clad slopes to Kangjim and then the magnificent traverse to Syarpagaon. It's a high somewhat flat several miles, thousands of feet above the Langtang Khola, with warm sun and brilliant views.<br /><br />After a couple of days we rejoined the main trail, and headed up the riverside canyon past Rimche, Lama Hotel, and Gumnachowk to GhoreTabela ("horse-table"). The oak/pine/bamboo/rhodedendron forest is a magical place, where you really wouldn't be surprised to <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbu5mYSeoI/AAAAAAAABVc/BVC0rBQsEGY/s1600/IMG_4730.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TQbu5mYSeoI/AAAAAAAABVc/BVC0rBQsEGY/s200/IMG_4730.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5550386264103090818" border="0" /></a>spot elves or hobbits in the mossy understory... We did see loads of lovely birds, and several large groups of Langurs moving through the trees.<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIkJY-nTQI/AAAAAAAABWM/9mqJCbybjPU/s1600/IMG_7752.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIkJY-nTQI/AAAAAAAABWM/9mqJCbybjPU/s200/IMG_7752.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553541034243738882" border="0" /></a> In this area you begin to see glimpses of the stunning snow-clad peaks of the Langtang group... Langtang 2, Langtang Lirung, etc...<br /><br /><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> There were days that we hiked up up up, gaining over 3000 feet of elevation. The kids didn’t even notice as they were discussing world politics with Maya and Dawn,<span style=""> </span>or crooning over “cuuuuuuuuute” animals like goats, baby chicks, yaks or the most sacred of all, (to Eliza anyway), the horses and ponies!<br /><span style=""></span><br />One of Lupin’s highlights was, “…hiking up to the windy place…” (that would be Kyangjin Ri…with its tasty views, high winds, glaciers and a glimpse of the Tibetan border peaks!<span style=""> </span>“There were some really different birds up there that I couldn’t believe can live in that wind and cold!"<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Eliza says,</span> "The Langtang trek was so awesome!<span style=""> </span>We got to ride Tibetan ponies twice.<span style=""> </span>We got to hike up a huge steep hill that was so hard and steep, but it was really worth it because even though I thought I was going to die of altitude sickness, we got to the top we could see into Tibet!<br /><br />We began in the lower elevation with banana trees and the views unfolded as we climbed up so high that we were 3000’ from where we started.<span style=""> </span>The final traverse to Sherpagaon was great.<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIgy3SpNfI/AAAAAAAABV0/KuV_RClbQQk/s1600/IMG_4692.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIgy3SpNfI/AAAAAAAABV0/KuV_RClbQQk/s200/IMG_4692.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553537348708939250" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span>We just hiked and talked with our friends and we seemed to be there so quickly!<span style=""> </span>The next day was mostly flat &amp; down until we were at the bottom of the river canyon, then back up through oaks, bamboo, rhododendron forest…hoping as we walked to see a red panda.<span style=""> </span>Even though we didn’t see one, it was one of the most beautiful places on our whole trek.<span style=""> </span>That night was really cool because we were at Tsering’s house.<span style=""> </span>She is the girl who I played with on the Langtang trek in 1999 when I was just one a half years old.<span style=""> </span>I still remember that she gave me my first Pringles! ™<span style=""> </span>It is hard to imagine that that little girl I have thought of all these years<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIgySPIw3I/AAAAAAAABVs/TzycuPQIl7M/s1600/IMG_4705.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIgySPIw3I/AAAAAAAABVs/TzycuPQIl7M/s200/IMG_4705.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553537338762118002" border="0" /></a> is 13 years old and in school in Kathmandu now!<span style=""> </span>We gave photos and letters to her family and will send them some photos of us together 11 years ago!<span style=""> </span>As we started the next morning, we passed big ice sculpture made by a spraying, leaky hose!<span style=""> </span>We posed for <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIiaJCeX_I/AAAAAAAABV8/SpSOEtt2Py0/s1600/IMG_4778.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIiaJCeX_I/AAAAAAAABV8/SpSOEtt2Py0/s200/IMG_4778.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553539122999484402" border="0" /></a>photos with it and broke it up a bit with our bamboo sticks.<span style=""> </span><br /><br />We arrived in Langtang later that day where we walked around the pastures of yaks and ponies and met 3 little girls and gave them horseback rides which they loved!<span style=""> </span>We got to help them put their goats in the stable for the night!<span style=""> </span>On our way home we got our feet really muddy and were scared that the parents would be mad at us.<span style=""> </span>They were happy that we had made some local friends and we just had to deal with our own frozen feet.<span style=""><br /></span><br />When we got to Kyangin Gompa the next day we stayed in a tiny little guest house with a man who owned a tiny little black Tibetan pony named Karma.<span style=""> </span>He let us ride that afternoon.<span style=""> </span>It was <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIiakls9cI/AAAAAAAABWE/t1iLTwJ9g6Y/s1600/IMG_4905.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIiakls9cI/AAAAAAAABWE/t1iLTwJ9g6Y/s200/IMG_4905.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553539130394998210" border="0" /></a>so awesome because I got to ride double with Dawn!<span style=""> </span>It was soooooo fun.<span style=""> </span>Here we got to do some amazing day hikes.<span style=""> </span>Up the super steep trail which gave us a great view into Tibet.<span style=""> </span>I loved that.<span style=""> </span>I really love Tibet and loved to see Tibetan soil.<span style=""> </span>I hope so much to go there someday.<span style=""> </span>I just love the people and the culture and I want to learn more about Tibet because I now have so many friends who are Tibetan.<br /><br />The next day we went on a great “ice adventure” crossing icy streams that we could have fallen into and got to break and bust tons of frozen ice…it was cool!<span style=""> </span>We explored around in a little drainage and wanted to get to the other side, but there was so much ice in the way.<span style=""> </span>We had to make our way around carefully so that we didn’t break through the thin places and fall in.<span style=""> </span>I really LOVE that kind of thing!<span style=""> </span>We walked across an abandoned air strip that had white rocks surrounding it.<span style=""> </span>I can’t imagine landing on that incredibly bumpy surface!<span style=""><br /></span><br />The morning we were leaving town, a helicopter landed near our guest house!<span style=""> </span>Out came a couple of travelers with big cameras and smiles.<span style=""> </span>The pilot let us sit in the helicopter and take some funny pictures.<span style=""> </span>We talked with the 3 tourists who came out <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIkJqPYOhI/AAAAAAAABWU/uVuulexy-hg/s1600/IMG_8260.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TRIkJqPYOhI/AAAAAAAABWU/uVuulexy-hg/s200/IMG_8260.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553541038877456914" border="0" /></a>and they were really interesting.<span style=""> </span>So we got a later start hiking down the canyon, walked all day long, and pulled in to Lama Hotel, our destination, way after dark.<span style=""> </span>When we got there I was soooo tired but the food was great!<br /><br />The next day we hiked up a really steep hill to Thulo Syabru.<span style=""> </span>I loved this village and the place we stayed with the cute black kitten.<span style=""> </span>We got to sleep with our friends in our own room!<span style=""> </span>We stayed up LATE talking and playing and were so tired the next morning.<span style=""> </span>It was worth it!<br /><br />I was sad to finish the trek because it was beautiful and I love the life of trekking; the adventures, the exercise, the scenery and meeting new people every day.<span style=""> </span>Then, we got on the bus home…Achhhhh!<span style=""> </span>Nothing to say, but maybe the videos or photos will sum up the ride!<br /><div style="border-width: 1pt medium; border-style: solid none; border-color: windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 1pt 0in 25pt;"> </div>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-35117045427069284452010-11-30T08:43:00.000-08:002010-11-30T09:24:20.496-08:00Auspicious Days (...and nights) at BoudhanathToday was yet another very auspicious day at Boudha... This is the reincarnation day of Tsong Khapa, the founder of the Yellow Hat (Gelukpa) sect of Tibetan <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUyk-SvdSI/AAAAAAAABUs/8SXB3RHqJXg/s1600/IMG_6984.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUyk-SvdSI/AAAAAAAABUs/8SXB3RHqJXg/s200/IMG_6984.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545394126954919202" border="0" /></a>Buddhism. There are several sects, such as the Red Hats (Kagyupa), Black Hats, Nyingmapa, etc... The Dalai Lama belongs to the Gelukpa, as do many residents of our neighborhood. So <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUzD1tOawI/AAAAAAAABU0/ko8rUT7gtUs/s1600/IMG_6998.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUzD1tOawI/AAAAAAAABU0/ko8rUT7gtUs/s200/IMG_6998.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545394657226025730" border="0" /></a>tonight many homes, windows, balconies, and the stupa were lit up with thousands of candles, colored lights, and butter lamps. A lovely evening, with so much happening around the great stupa....<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUyjupgUJI/AAAAAAAABUk/yzYWTM_Hau4/s1600/IMG_6972.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPUyjupgUJI/AAAAAAAABUk/yzYWTM_Hau4/s200/IMG_6972.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545394105575559314" border="0" /></a><br />We are so thankful to be living here, as opposed to the tourist ghetto of Thamel. In this part of Kathmandu, most of the activity is centered around the monasteries, the stupa, walking the kora in prayer, spiritual study, and improving one's karma. Every morning and evening, and throughout the day, steady streams of pilgrims walk up and down our street, heading for the stupa with their prayer beads... Of course there are typical commercial operations, souvenir shops, cafe's, etc., but all of this shuts down by 6 or 7 pm. Many of the foreigners we meet around here are long-term residents, volunteering, teaching, or studying Buddhism or language. It's quite a different crowd than the bar-hopping dance-party scene in Thamel!<br /><br />There are MANY auspicious days on the lunar calendar.... Full moons, new moons, and the 8th, 10th, and 25th deserve special attention. Buddha's birthday, enlightenment day, and parinirvana day are major celebrations. A few days ago was another "festival" to honor the Rinpoche of the nearest Monastery... The white dome of the stupa was freshly white-washed, and saffron water was splashed across the dome to make a lotus blossom pattern. Up until a few years ago, thousands of butter lamps were lit all around the base of the stupa, but that was apparently "too messy... too difficult." Now they string up colorful electric lights on special nights instead. It's a bit ironic, as the constant power outages in KTM usually black out the celebratory lights for much of the evening. Butter lamps would be far more dependable than Nepal's Electricity Grid. Many tiny niches around the stupa, each with a tiny buddha image, are filled with candles by devotees, and thousand and thousands of butter lamps are lit on portable carts and tables set up in the surrounding courtyard. Special prayers are chanted by groups of monks seated at the North point of the stupa, and huge mounds of fruit, biscuits, and flowers pile up as worshippers make their offerings.<br /><br />Living in the neighborhood allows us to experience so many of these special nights! If we just visited once or twice, you'd miss all these incredible moments. We try to do a kora or 2 around the stupa each evening, just in case there is something special happening! It is such a pleasure and a gift to call Boudhanath our neighborhood for these few months.... I will deeply miss this place when we leave in a few weeks.Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-49368706254297215622010-11-29T09:45:00.000-08:002010-11-29T11:02:11.289-08:00Our Last School Day... Overwhelmed by Gratitude!<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">From Karen's journal</span> -- <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> We just wrapped up 6 weeks of volunteer teaching, and leading bird walks in <img src="file:///C:/Users/KAREN&amp;%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png" alt="" />and around Kathmandu. We are feeling the bittersweetness of wrapping up our life here; a sweet set of daily rituals involving people who <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPxlhdT3jI/AAAAAAAABT0/m4A2nNxO_U4/s1600/IMG_7363.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPxlhdT3jI/AAAAAAAABT0/m4A2nNxO_U4/s200/IMG_7363.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545041193161973298" border="0" /></a>became our family. We poured our hearts into Manasarovar school! Though we were teaching full-time and putting out all that we had to give, we were re-filled each day with much more than we ever dreamed! We learned so much about being truly, simply alive and getting all that we can out of our time each day. We learned that dal-bhat<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP3BnrzyCI/AAAAAAAABUM/BL2Wk_j4An0/s1600/IMG_7379.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP3BnrzyCI/AAAAAAAABUM/BL2Wk_j4An0/s200/IMG_7379.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545047173427873826" border="0" /></a> is the perfect daily meal for 325 Tibetan kids and ours daughters too! We learned about having curiosity for everything in the world and how to ask questions of anyone willing to answer!<span style=""> </span>We saw up close every day the humility that allows the two founding women to welcome us into their office every day, take up their desk space, change things, teach them our ways of doing things, and help them with whatever we could... And they soaked it up, laughed and smiled constantly, and always thanked us for being there. We felt grateful to have<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP4doYUbOI/AAAAAAAABUc/As-q2FGRCIE/s1600/IMG_7386.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP4doYUbOI/AAAAAAAABUc/As-q2FGRCIE/s200/IMG_7386.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545048754162527458" border="0" /></a> learned so many things about the methods of teaching and administrating a school here in Nepal! How much more could we all get done in a day if we were more disciplined! Balance is a thing we are constantly learning about too! Anyway, we were so impressed with the heart and soul of this simple school in Kathmandu, working to provide quality education and also keep Tibet alive and beating in the hearts and spirits of 325 children. And it is working!<br /><br /><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->There was both sweetness &amp; sadness in completing our fulfilling month and a half at <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP1Nlo3ytI/AAAAAAAABT8/p9EoOWf6kvE/s1600/IMG_7367.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP1Nlo3ytI/AAAAAAAABT8/p9EoOWf6kvE/s200/IMG_7367.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545045180013857490" border="0" /></a>Manasarovar Academy… with its smiling students and brilliant teachers and the cement block building where life is played out each school day.<span style=""> </span>We will miss being a part of the pulse here that is these kids’ existence.<span style=""> </span>Our hearts were so warmed by the students ‘Farewell’ to us which was all, love, compassion, and kindness.<span style=""> </span>We are always impressed with these kids’ thoughtfulness and the fact that it all comes from them.<span style=""> </span>I mean, <i style="font-weight: bold;">nobody</i><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span>told them that they can’t go out for recess until they write ‘thank you’ notes to ‘those nice American volunteers’!<span style=""> </span>With their own money the kids from <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPxlOkwEiI/AAAAAAAABTs/h3Y8JjTIkBQ/s1600/IMG_7368.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPxlOkwEiI/AAAAAAAABTs/h3Y8JjTIkBQ/s200/IMG_7368.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545041188092908066" border="0" /></a>all of our classes chose gifts from the local gift shops for us, and spent their own time writing beautiful, heartfelt sentiments to us in long letters with illustrations.<span style=""> </span>They only ask their own hearts what to write.<span style=""> </span>Their hearts say things like this (enjoy the spelling!):<span style=""> </span>“First of all I want to wish you a happy congrasolation thank you for teaching us science and math.”<span style=""> </span><span style="font-style: italic;">And </span>“Dearest my lovely Sir Paul and Miss Karen.<span style=""> </span>First of all I would like to say thanks <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP3CHD6LjI/AAAAAAAABUU/qR9DSACu6Sg/s1600/IMG_7390.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP3CHD6LjI/AAAAAAAABUU/qR9DSACu6Sg/s200/IMG_7390.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545047181850455602" border="0" /></a>for coming in our class and teaching us new things.<span style=""> </span>It was very fun with you both.<span style=""> </span>I hope you have a long life and save journey.<span style=""> </span>Best of luck for every step you take…”<span style=""> </span><span style="font-style: italic;">And</span>, “I am very sad that today is the last day with us.<span style=""> </span>But I will never forget your kindness and all the things you have taught us.<span style=""> </span>Though Miss and Sir you only taught us for 5 weeks, I enjoyed your class.<span style=""> </span>I am very thankful to you.<span style=""> </span>I wish Miss and Sir will always be happy and can struggle to every obstacles that can come in life.<span style=""> </span>I will never forget and I hope that we will meet again in the future.”<span style=""> </span><span style="font-style: italic;">And</span>… “today I am upsed because you are leaving.”<span style=""> </span><span style="font-style: italic;">And</span>, “Wishing you Sir Paul and Miss Kiran to shine sparkling in sky <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP1OAgHJxI/AAAAAAAABUE/RJsok5jA9cA/s1600/IMG_7378.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPP1OAgHJxI/AAAAAAAABUE/RJsok5jA9cA/s200/IMG_7378.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545045187224872722" border="0" /></a>like stars for long life.”<br /><br />We all felt tender emotions as we soaked up the big love and appreciation so freely gifted to us…what a surprise it was to receive such an overwhelming wave of gratitude!<span style=""> </span>These will definitely be the best souvenirs we will bring home with us, along with all the memories! Paul and I were also swarmed all day with crowds of students, desperate to get out autographs! We felt a bit like rock stars...<br /><img src="file:///C:/Users/KAREN&amp;%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png" alt="" /><br />The last day of school also featured a brief singing performance, <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPwQJ5aLSI/AAAAAAAABTk/AMl4MHkCICs/s1600/IMG_7333.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPwQJ5aLSI/AAAAAAAABTk/AMl4MHkCICs/s200/IMG_7333.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545039726548495650" border="0" /></a>and then presentations from the storytelling class that Karen taught to the 10-13 year old students.<span style=""> </span>This of course included Eliza Amstutz!<span style=""> </span>We had a storytelling festival where the kids all told stories that they had memorized, or created, or heard from their relatives.<span style=""> </span>The oral tradition here is so potentially rich, and with trilingual kids, can take amazing shape!<span style=""> </span>The students brought a great variety of stories to life in front of the whole school.<span style=""> </span>It was a first at Manasarovar and was a beautiful celebration of culture…<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPwPSlx8xI/AAAAAAAABTc/O2CLwBjXm_U/s1600/IMG_7328.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPPwPSlx8xI/AAAAAAAABTc/O2CLwBjXm_U/s200/IMG_7328.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545039711702217490" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:latentstyles deflockedstate="false" latentstylecount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->Among many "typical" American songs that we shared with our students, I taught them <span style="font-style: italic;">This Land is Your Land</span> along with the sign language "lyrics." Paul and I also taught them the song <i style="">Eidelweiss</i>. It might seem like an old cheesy tune to some, but here in Nepal, working with Tibetan refugee kids who were begging us to share songs, it took on a whole new meaning. The little white "blossom of snow" is such a revered symbol of the Alps, but it's rarely, if ever, found there. But here in the high Himalaya, both Nepal and Tibet are blessed with abundant carpets of the fuzzy little flower! Therefore we've always associated Eidelweiss more with the Himalaya, than the Alps...<br /><br />Most of these kids come from families who had to escape from their high mountain homeland, and dream someday of returning. The spirit and sincerity with which the kids sang out "Bless my homeland forever..." brought us to tears in front of the class every time! It became clear to us that Tibet will always be alive and well in these students’ hearts, as long as there are schools and teachers like the ones here at Manasarovar Academy. We are full of gratitude for the entire experience here, and are already scheming on our return in the not so distant future! That's a sure sign of a successful family trip! (...and we still have a sweeeet month to go!)Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-82837171410101900692010-11-28T09:06:00.000-08:002010-11-28T10:25:15.534-08:00Bird-watching with Karen's Kailash Students<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationkerning/> <w:validateagainstschemas/> <w:saveifxmlinvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:ignoremixedcontent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:alwaysshowplaceholdertext>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> <w:dontgrowautofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->Today was yet another grand birding day!<span style=""> </span>Sure I saw one species that was new for me, and had <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKRWTPFF2I/AAAAAAAABR8/Me4gNrbBk30/s1600/IMG_6214%2B-%2BCopy.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 144px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKRWTPFF2I/AAAAAAAABR8/Me4gNrbBk30/s200/IMG_6214%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544653903553173346" border="0" /></a>the pleasure of figuring out what it <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKVrTN0kxI/AAAAAAAABSM/q6gm3wolJOk/s1600/IMG_7445%2B-%2BCopy.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 178px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKVrTN0kxI/AAAAAAAABSM/q6gm3wolJOk/s200/IMG_7445%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544658662371660562" border="0" /></a>was…in a new place that was rich in bird life and sparse in human presence!<span style=""> </span>But the part that made it exceptional is that I got to spend the day and the experience with my birding students from Kailash Hostel.<span style=""> </span> <p class="MsoNormal"> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKW8DEugNI/AAAAAAAABSc/y2lUtF9byfU/s1600/IMG_6178.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 180px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKW8DEugNI/AAAAAAAABSc/y2lUtF9byfU/s200/IMG_6178.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544660049607950546" border="0" /></a>These are 14 high school aged birders who not only come birding together early each Saturday (their <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">only </span>day off <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKU9BHeqpI/AAAAAAAABSE/VIwyhGcclps/s1600/IMG_7439%2B-%2BCopy.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 174px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKU9BHeqpI/AAAAAAAABSE/VIwyhGcclps/s200/IMG_7439%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544657867239238290" border="0" /></a>from school each week), but are always super-excited and look <i style="">forward</i> to a day of hiking, seeking and learning each week.<span style=""> </span>None of the students had ever been “birding” before or had ever thought about looking closely enough to notice that there are more than the mynas and pigeons and crows they commonly see around the valley.<span style=""> </span>Today we saw 30 species of birds on our walk from the hostel to Gokarna Forest and the students could identify most by themselves!<span style=""> </span>They get so excited about the <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKWVtPLvoI/AAAAAAAABSU/krjnYdsu8dk/s1600/IMG_7425.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 151px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKWVtPLvoI/AAAAAAAABSU/krjnYdsu8dk/s200/IMG_7425.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544659390911200898" border="0" /></a>new birds that they get to add to their lists, but also take pleasure in recognizing their <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKa9pqZBUI/AAAAAAAABS8/w7ikT0PkN2w/s1600/a%2Bgood%2Bspot%2521.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 144px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKa9pqZBUI/AAAAAAAABS8/w7ikT0PkN2w/s200/a%2Bgood%2Bspot%2521.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544664475192853826" border="0" /></a>favorite bulbuls and kingfishers.<span style=""> </span>As we walk I hear shouts behind me the whole way – “Karen!<span style=""> </span>Wagtail!”<span style=""> </span>Or, “Black Drongo!”<span style=""> </span>Or, “Loooook!”<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">The natural passion these nascent birders have for their new hobby is inspiring.<span style=""> </span>They’re taking notes fervently and learning so quickly that I believe they will be able to lead a good bird walk in the next month or two!<span style=""> </span>It is my hope that they will be able to do just that by the time I leave…at least to take their sponsors or donors for a walk if it suits the occasion.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKRWNW73wI/AAAAAAAABR0/xE3mTSJ7nQc/s1600/girls%2BBird%2Bclass.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKRWNW73wI/AAAAAAAABR0/xE3mTSJ7nQc/s200/girls%2BBird%2Bclass.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544653901975510786" border="0" /></a>We meet at 7am and usually do a bit of classroom time learning some ornithology basics.<span style=""> </span>During this precious time, often while waiting for fog to lift, we discuss everything from a bird’s unique biology, to conservation of the matchless diversity found in Nepal.<span style=""> </span>We then take off directly from their hostel home to hike through agricultural fields, forests, and sometimes steep terrain, on a<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKYvXQBj6I/AAAAAAAABSs/VxErC2e9Y6w/s1600/sharing%2Bbinos.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKYvXQBj6I/AAAAAAAABSs/VxErC2e9Y6w/s200/sharing%2Bbinos.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544662030709002146" border="0" /></a> literal treasure hunt for new species. </p> <p class="MsoNormal">Getting closer looks at the birds they spot is possible because of their beloved <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKdRoac3II/AAAAAAAABTM/s0Mh0v70exY/s1600/IMG_7429%2B-%2BCopy.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 152px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKdRoac3II/AAAAAAAABTM/s0Mh0v70exY/s200/IMG_7429%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544667017478200450" border="0" /></a>binoculars.<span style=""> </span>They are using 8 pairs of Vortex binoculars that were donated by Jim and Alice and by Eagle Optics .<span style=""> </span>One boy said that he feels like he is eavesdropping on the birds’ privacy!<span style=""> </span>I have rarely seen kids so moved by a gift, truly appreciating that it is meant to enable them to discover something valuable.<span style=""> </span>They are all so grateful and seem to be soaking up everything I have to teach them. I love how they pair up, and squeeze together to share the binox so willingly...<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKX7Ct4DzI/AAAAAAAABSk/RbgiXQluZ_Q/s1600/IMG_6902%2B-%2BCopy.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 155px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKX7Ct4DzI/AAAAAAAABSk/RbgiXQluZ_Q/s200/IMG_6902%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544661131843866418" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">About the students.<span style=""> </span>The class consists of 14 <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKcO7GgnoI/AAAAAAAABTE/x54bDGeHIV4/s1600/urban%2Bbirding.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKcO7GgnoI/AAAAAAAABTE/x54bDGeHIV4/s200/urban%2Bbirding.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544665871443598978" border="0" /></a>high school students who live at the <b style="">Kailash Hostel</b>.<span style=""> </span>Financial support for this boarding home comes from the Himalayan Children’s Foundation based here in Nepal.<span style=""> </span>The hostel is home to 90 kids from ages 4 years through high school.<span style=""> </span>They are all kids from villages in the high Himalaya; mostly very remote places too far from the nearest school to attend.<span style=""> </span>Nearly all of them have parents but <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKd1whg_PI/AAAAAAAABTU/TRMFYleGbJY/s1600/IMG_7488.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 136px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKd1whg_PI/AAAAAAAABTU/TRMFYleGbJY/s200/IMG_7488.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544667638130605298" border="0" /></a>cannot live with them for a variety of heartbreaking reasons.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKZogbPqyI/AAAAAAAABS0/6tsPeK808ZE/s1600/IMG_6210.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TPKZogbPqyI/AAAAAAAABS0/6tsPeK808ZE/s200/IMG_6210.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5544663012424526626" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span>Many are orphans and have spent their lives here at the hostel where every single kid says that they are very happy and feel that this is their home.<span style=""> </span>The staff and residents are their family.<span style=""> </span>The hostel is a joyful place to visit and I really look forward to meeting them there each week.<span style=""><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">I'll post more bird photos and lists soon.... Our last weekend will be a walk out to the clear streams &amp; waterfalls of Sudarijial!<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /><span style=""></span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-67703616900292700792010-11-24T10:43:00.000-08:002010-11-24T11:55:20.892-08:00Our Last Week Teaching at Manasarovar...Wow... did I blink? Can it really be our LAST week already? We've been volunteer teaching at <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1gxLaaJMI/AAAAAAAABQU/7-HMVUMgwSA/s1600/IMG_7071.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1gxLaaJMI/AAAAAAAABQU/7-HMVUMgwSA/s200/IMG_7071.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543193114356360386" border="0" /></a><a href="http://manasarovaracademy.org/"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Manasarovar Academy</span></a> for 5 weeks now, and are truly savoring the experience. Editing grant proposals, creating a school blog and website, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1fbnjXdjI/AAAAAAAABQM/_mv19Sjt034/s1600/IMG_7075.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1fbnjXdjI/AAAAAAAABQM/_mv19Sjt034/s200/IMG_7075.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543191644441376306" border="0" /></a>proof-reading test papers, and typing for the teachers has kept us in front of a computer screen much more than we imagined... but we also get to teach plenty of classes. Karen has taught mostly English and "GK" (general knowledge), and initiated a story-telling workshop for the oldest students (class 5; 10-13 yr. olds). They'll present their personally created <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1fbfCr4OI/AAAAAAAABQE/oW3r_2pFzJc/s1600/IMG_7200.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1fbfCr4OI/AAAAAAAABQE/oW3r_2pFzJc/s200/IMG_7200.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543191642156818658" border="0" /></a>stories and legends to the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1gxV0kObI/AAAAAAAABQc/w_LQLLzOJqs/s1600/IMG_7107.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1gxV0kObI/AAAAAAAABQc/w_LQLLzOJqs/s200/IMG_7107.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543193117150427570" border="0" /></a>younger students on Friday. Paul has been covering several classes each day, primarily Science, Math &amp; English... This last week he's been cramming the students into a tiny sweaty "television room" to share power-point presentations on the USA, California, Yosemite, etc... The students have also begging for more information and discussion on a wide range of topics, from great white sharks &amp; volcanic eruptions, to the origin of the universe, giant squid, and World War 2. When I say begging, I <span style="font-style: italic;">mean</span> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1pf_MIouI/AAAAAAAABQk/eUhgnRKuOGY/s1600/IMG_6854.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1pf_MIouI/AAAAAAAABQk/eUhgnRKuOGY/s200/IMG_6854.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543202714622141154" border="0" /></a>literally <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1qX-JYynI/AAAAAAAABQ8/rZ_hP8oeb7Q/s1600/IMG_7088.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1qX-JYynI/AAAAAAAABQ8/rZ_hP8oeb7Q/s200/IMG_7088.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543203676414855794" border="0" /></a><span style="font-style: italic;">begging</span>... pulling on my arm as I walk down the hall crying "please Sir Paul, please can you tell me how is formed the planet Earth!?" ...or physically blocking me in the doorway as I try to leave, hands folded &amp; shaking over their hearts in the "namaste position," saying "oh Sir Paul don't go to other class, don't <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1qXvWvE1I/AAAAAAAABQ0/UXOfv1WeP78/s1600/IMG_7106.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1qXvWvE1I/AAAAAAAABQ0/UXOfv1WeP78/s200/IMG_7106.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543203672444310354" border="0" /></a>go! Take our next class please, we need you tell us how did human come from monkey is it true? Also tell me what is Berlin Wall?!"<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1pgJ5SxCI/AAAAAAAABQs/ODveD1xPJnk/s1600/IMG_6872.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1pgJ5SxCI/AAAAAAAABQs/ODveD1xPJnk/s200/IMG_6872.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543202717495903266" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Their genuine hunger for knowledge, and the earnest intensity of their desire to learn, is both heart-warming and inspiring! Of course some classrooms are loud and chaotic, certain students are really disruptive, and it's difficult not to lose my voice every day... but some of these kids, WOW... If I could just take 10 or 15 them, and find a quiet space, they would be super focused sponges, asking great questions &amp; soaking <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1s3HeynjI/AAAAAAAABRc/u6DK7bBv1-Y/s1600/IMG_7043.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1s3HeynjI/AAAAAAAABRc/u6DK7bBv1-Y/s200/IMG_7043.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543206410519748146" border="0" /></a>up every morsel of information that I could possibly share! What do you say to a kid who follows you down the hall asking "Oh Paul sir, can you quickly answer me this question of what means by Theory of Evolution?" How can I give <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1rTMYZ28I/AAAAAAAABRM/etKn8-C7Pd4/s1600/IMG_7204.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1rTMYZ28I/AAAAAAAABRM/etKn8-C7Pd4/s200/IMG_7204.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543204693848218562" border="0" /></a>them complete and reasonable answers in just minutes, when what I really need is a nice quiet hour with a whiteboard and a fast internet connection? Anyway, I am loving these students! It will be really sad to say goodbye in a few days...<br />Our girls are feeling a huge mix of emotions for the "end" of school. They have been stressed out at times with the workload of Tibetan, Nepali, math, science, GK, etc., <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1s1Yct3zI/AAAAAAAABRU/Rbrqr-RXcDE/s1600/IMG_7104.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1s1Yct3zI/AAAAAAAABRU/Rbrqr-RXcDE/s200/IMG_7104.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543206380714712882" border="0" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1rSEp0DxI/AAAAAAAABRE/9sa_iwG4Ak8/s1600/IMG_7109.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TO1rSEp0DxI/AAAAAAAABRE/9sa_iwG4Ak8/s200/IMG_7109.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5543204674593885970" border="0" /></a>while also trying to keep up with home-school assignments from California. They were very shy at first, dreading school some days and watching the clock... But as new friendships have blossomed, and they have settled into the routines and expectations of a radically different school system, every day is better than the last. They are excited and relieved for the end of this school experience (and the start of trekking &amp; rafting), but also quite sad and depressed that their daily contact with friends will suddenly come to a close...<br />I'm also a huge bag of emotions right now. I hope to write more on this soon! For now, I'll post a bunch of photos...Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-10037909053807147182010-11-21T08:38:00.000-08:002010-11-21T09:47:30.620-08:00The Best Birthday Present EVER!!!We've had multiple celebrations in honor of Sylvie's birth... A week or 2 ago, the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMEWRQa0I/AAAAAAAABO0/G2iz2nZuRt0/s1600/IMG_6591.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMEWRQa0I/AAAAAAAABO0/G2iz2nZuRt0/s200/IMG_6591.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542044454037252930" border="0" /></a>Canapary's were here for the first round of cards and muffins, etc. Then on her "real" birthday, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMtHCIS_I/AAAAAAAABPM/GXGz0RXqB00/s1600/IMG_7159.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMtHCIS_I/AAAAAAAABPM/GXGz0RXqB00/s200/IMG_7159.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542045154321910770" border="0" /></a>we had more candles and breakfast goodies, and followed up after school by blowing out our forearms on Kathmandu's one climbing wall. The girls were thrilled to be on the "rock" after so many months away, and we got blisters from belaying them... A fine meal at Fire &amp; Ice, her favorite pizza place in Nepal, rounded out the evening.<br /><br />But the best event by far occurred just this morning... (We always try to do something extra <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMEuZ6sMI/AAAAAAAABO8/PNvoHsfnJF0/s1600/IMG_6594.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMEuZ6sMI/AAAAAAAABO8/PNvoHsfnJF0/s200/IMG_6594.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542044460516028610" border="0" /></a>special for the girl, as her Fall birthday has <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMsiWgSFI/AAAAAAAABPE/uO0lLz20wow/s1600/IMG_7161.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlMsiWgSFI/AAAAAAAABPE/uO0lLz20wow/s200/IMG_7161.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542045144475256914" border="0" /></a>found us overseas several times, and climbing in Joshua Tree several others.... She's had more birthdays away from home than not. <span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Lucky! </span>...or unlucky, as she sometimes complains.) Well this year we found an extra special "gift" for her. She's rarely wanted a lot of "things," preferring adventures or experiences over more "stuff" to clutter up her room.<br /><br />This gift involves the "bird sellers" that we see most weekends hanging around Boudhanath. They wander the neighborhood with 10 or 15 small cages, filled to the gills with birds. Usually they have several green parakeets; "Rose-ringed, Plum-headed, and Alexandrine's" for all you birders out there. There are also handfuls of Munias (scaly-breasted) and other <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlRBV0hOxI/AAAAAAAABPU/MLY9VAnWoM8/s1600/IMG_7175.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlRBV0hOxI/AAAAAAAABPU/MLY9VAnWoM8/s200/IMG_7175.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542049899935251218" border="0" /></a>finch-like birds, crammed into the tiny spaces. A few always look unnaturally colored, as if the 'boring' brown females have been dipped or dusted with bright green and yellow dye to improve their looks. These birds are for sale as caged pets, but also are marketed as a way to boost your "karma points" by buying their freedom &amp; releasing them... It's a twisted industry. The bird dealers will sell their prisoners, then head back down to the Terai (flatlands) to trap more birds. Bring 'em to <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlVizbu8DI/AAAAAAAABPs/NYcrRzictIc/s1600/IMG_7174.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlVizbu8DI/AAAAAAAABPs/NYcrRzictIc/s200/IMG_7174.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542054872866549810" border="0" /></a>Kathmandu, sell them to Buddhists to release, go back to the forest and trap some more...<br /><br />Our girls were always fascinated by the caged birds, spending lots of time talking to them, and begging to buy them all and set them free. We had endless discussions about releasing non-native birds in the wrong habitat, and the concerns that these caged birds might not survive in the wild. We considered if buying these birds would only encourage more trapping of wild birds. We thought about the morality of spending a large chunk of money to free a bird, when there are starving and disfigured human beggars right down the street... But in the end, I had to put away my logical thinking, and listen to and learn from my daughter. She said, "so what if they don't live such a long time, or if they might get trapped again. If they die in just a day or two, at least they'll die free, li<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlVh2vMQNI/AAAAAAAABPk/eawukNc-_eQ/s1600/bird%2Brelease%2Bcropped.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 175px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlVh2vMQNI/AAAAAAAABPk/eawukNc-_eQ/s200/bird%2Brelease%2Bcropped.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542054856573599954" border="0" /></a>ving in a tree somewhere. Any amount of life flying free has to be better than suffering in those tiny cages!" She was right.... So we decided to surprise her on her birthday with a few caged birds to set free.... but suddenly, just when you need one, we couldn't find any bird sellers!<br /><br />A couple of days later, as we were in a big hurry, rushing to grab a taxi across town, the bird-man was back. We quickly shifted gears, took a deep breath, and granted Sylvie her only big wish for the year... She carefully inspected &amp; spoke with all the birds in the many cages, and decided to release a pair of parakeets. The bird man assumed, of course, that we'd want the prettiest healthy ones, and began to unwire those <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlWG-QXphI/AAAAAAAABP0/aIbPmFUoN9c/s1600/IMG_7178.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlWG-QXphI/AAAAAAAABP0/aIbPmFUoN9c/s200/IMG_7178.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542055494246966802" border="0" /></a>cages.... No thanks, she chose instead the two with the most ratty tails, and the painful looking bare spots on their heads.... the two that looked the most in need of their freedom! <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlRB_sN2fI/AAAAAAAABPc/fxlHQxsCRJU/s1600/IMG_7181.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOlRB_sN2fI/AAAAAAAABPc/fxlHQxsCRJU/s200/IMG_7181.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5542049911174715890" border="0" /></a> We brought them back to our monastery's garden, spent some time with them, then opened the doors. It took quite awhile for one to emerge, but then she flew straightaway to some nearby trees. Skreeching and squawking, the other one joined her, and they explored their new perch together... Watching those emerald green birds flying free was a wonderful joyful moment for all of our girls! Sylvie exclaimed, "Thanks Mom &amp; Dad!!! That was the Best <span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">BEST </span>Birthday Present EVER!!!"Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-79931187838744803042010-11-16T08:00:00.000-08:002010-11-16T10:04:55.028-08:00Around Annapurna #6 – “The Pass” - Crossing Thorung La!The next 3 days would be the crux of our trek… The long (and spectacular) push over 17,500’<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKykv2zjrI/AAAAAAAABLk/kKdfHU9cvXU/s1600/IMG_3951.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKykv2zjrI/AAAAAAAABLk/kKdfHU9cvXU/s200/IMG_3951.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540186836010503858" border="0" /></a> high Thorung La!<span style=""> </span>We’ve been anticipating <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKsg3V8sXI/AAAAAAAABK8/AjCAiYjpUEM/s1600/IMG_3912.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKsg3V8sXI/AAAAAAAABK8/AjCAiYjpUEM/s200/IMG_3912.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540180172230930802" border="0" /></a>this section with both excitement and caution for months.<span style=""> </span>How would the kids handle the altitude?<span style=""> </span>How would we parents manage coaxing them up and over such a challenging hike? Would the weather hold out? Did we have adequate clothing and gear? Would we all be healthy?<span style=""> </span><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">We felt that we’d planned well for the challenge; ascending slowly and steadily, spending extra acclimatization days in Manang, being prepared to turn back if AMS kicked in, and, most importantly, raising our girls <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKykP31dJI/AAAAAAAABLc/0FMRL-WPk4U/s1600/IMG_4016.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKykP31dJI/AAAAAAAABLc/0FMRL-WPk4U/s200/IMG_4016.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540186827424887954" border="0" /></a>from the start to be strong hikers who earn their views!<span style=""> </span>We hired a great porter, Prem, to carry <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAhM7DcsI/AAAAAAAABNc/YVq51wX-E5Q/s1600/IMG_4179.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAhM7DcsI/AAAAAAAABNc/YVq51wX-E5Q/s200/IMG_4179.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540202168256262850" border="0" /></a>the kids backpacks, so they could better enjoy these toughest days.<span style=""> </span>And we planned for a 3 day crossing, with overnights in Yak Kharka and Thorung Phedi…<span style=""> </span>We’d already met several trekkers who had to turn back.<span style=""> </span>These were all young, very fit, male hikers who had hiked double our pace, covering in 3 or 4 days what had taken us a week and a half. They fortunately recognized the AMS signs of severe headache, dizziness, fatigue and appetite loss, and didn’t try to ascend any <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKtWkLIVjI/AAAAAAAABLE/ZLcicBTR9RM/s1600/IMG_3919.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKtWkLIVjI/AAAAAAAABLE/ZLcicBTR9RM/s200/IMG_3919.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540181094798218802" border="0" /></a>higher.<span style=""> </span>There were 2 great Dutch guys who had been at Thorung Phedi for 3 days, and <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKziIVXe2I/AAAAAAAABL0/YaRx6H_c0Jw/s1600/IMG_3943.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKziIVXe2I/AAAAAAAABL0/YaRx6H_c0Jw/s200/IMG_3943.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540187890553158498" border="0" /></a>2 tries at the Pass, but their symptoms never diminished…. The bummer (for them) is that they might have been just fine if they had ascended slower from the start.<span style=""> </span>Everyone has the same guidebook with all the AMS warnings, but some ignore, or choose not to take seriously, the recommendations on rate of ascent!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">We headed up from Manang with stellar weather, and luscious views all around… Tea breaks at Gunsang, and photo breaks everywhere, were a welcome pause from the climbing.<span style=""> </span><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKtW7_gK2I/AAAAAAAABLM/4CF34e28_Bc/s1600/IMG_3936.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKtW7_gK2I/AAAAAAAABLM/4CF34e28_Bc/s200/IMG_3936.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540181101191900002" border="0" /></a>Lots of folks passing us on <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKzhbtiM6I/AAAAAAAABLs/9tYXN8v8q-U/s1600/IMG_3996.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKzhbtiM6I/AAAAAAAABLs/9tYXN8v8q-U/s200/IMG_3996.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540187878574928802" border="0" /></a>the trail today…<span style=""> </span>We’ve heard estimates of 250 trekkers per day trudging up the trail here in the peak season of Oct./Nov.<span style=""> </span>Our great porter Prem pushed ahead to score us beds in Yak Kharka, otherwise we’d have been out in the cold… or on a floor somewhere!<span style=""> </span>This day was only 4 or 5 hours of trail-time, but we only wanted to ascend 500-600m per <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK1DLY2mjI/AAAAAAAABL8/eua8eH74yFs/s1600/IMG_4009.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK1DLY2mjI/AAAAAAAABL8/eua8eH74yFs/s200/IMG_4009.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540189557820398130" border="0" /></a>night, so we stopped in YK.<span style=""> </span>Kharka was a highlight for the girls, as the owner of our lodge saddled up his pony <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKyEEQRkNI/AAAAAAAABLU/zh_z58ouh_8/s1600/IMG_5682.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOKyEEQRkNI/AAAAAAAABLU/zh_z58ouh_8/s200/IMG_5682.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540186274550354130" border="0" /></a>with Tibetan blankets to give them rides around the pasture!<span style=""> </span>The next day was another “half” day of walking, but another 500m or so of altitude, up to Thorung Phedi.<span style=""> </span>We spent the afternoon hunting for, and finding, amazing ammonite fossils down in <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK1DwdEEJI/AAAAAAAABME/w23B11hzRZ0/s1600/IMG_4027.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK1DwdEEJI/AAAAAAAABME/w23B11hzRZ0/s200/IMG_4027.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540189567770169490" border="0" /></a>the riverbed.<span style=""> </span>We went to bed early to prep for the big day tomorrow….<span style=""> </span>Pretty fun to think that<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK8f9X717I/AAAAAAAABM0/MNsFyZCc6u8/s1600/IMG_5745.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK8f9X717I/AAAAAAAABM0/MNsFyZCc6u8/s200/IMG_5745.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540197748856051634" border="0" /></a> tonight we are sleeping a few hundred feet higher than the summit of Mt.Whitney, and tomorrow we’ll gain 3,000 more feet crossing Thorung La! </p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">As the Pass was such an accomplishment for our daughters, I’ll post <b style=""><i style="">their</i></b> descriptions of the experience:</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Sylvie asks..</span>. “Why do we have to get up so early,” <span style=""> </span>It was 4 <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK58RidNCI/AAAAAAAABMU/xN0VOE3SvHc/s1600/IMG_4058.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK58RidNCI/AAAAAAAABMU/xN0VOE3SvHc/s200/IMG_4058.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540194936770343970" border="0" /></a>in the morning, and was barely light.<span style=""> </span>I was so tired.<span style=""> </span>It’s hard to wake up so early, but we had to go over the Pass! “Let’s go have some tea,” my Dad whispered. “Yum, it’s so good,” we all said… That’s pretty <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK6vN1N4BI/AAAAAAAABMk/lYZqM1YJdEE/s1600/IMG_4064.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK6vN1N4BI/AAAAAAAABMk/lYZqM1YJdEE/s200/IMG_4064.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540195811948617746" border="0" /></a>much all we had for breakfast, then we started out! It was still dark, but just barely see enough not to use our headlamps. The mountain was sooo steep, and my fingers and toes were sooo cold! But the mountains were so pretty with a tiny <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK58yvN47I/AAAAAAAABMc/VZVo6YR_ans/s1600/IMG_4062.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK58yvN47I/AAAAAAAABMc/VZVo6YR_ans/s200/IMG_4062.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540194945682236338" border="0" /></a>bit of sun on them. “It’s glowing orange and pink,” said Lupin. After a long hard climb my Dad said, “we’re almost to base camp, where some people sleep instead of Phedi.”<span style=""> </span>We took a rest there, and then went on…<span style=""> </span>It was still steep, but not as bad as the first hour. Up and up and up we went.<span style=""> </span>Finally I said, “Yea! The sun is up!!!”<span style=""> </span>Eliza said, “I can walk much faster now that <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK6xS2dZAI/AAAAAAAABMs/OivUb8D-1Qs/s1600/IMG_4071.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK6xS2dZAI/AAAAAAAABMs/OivUb8D-1Qs/s200/IMG_4071.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540195847655744514" border="0" /></a>I’m warmer!” Mom said we were almost half way up to the top, but we had already climbed about 2,500 feet and still had far to go. Every few minutes we stopped for a water break, or for potatoes with salt, or another<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK8gjU2SjI/AAAAAAAABM8/M9wOG0ItEGE/s1600/IMG_4085.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK8gjU2SjI/AAAAAAAABM8/M9wOG0ItEGE/s200/IMG_4085.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540197759043652146" border="0" /></a> snack, or to see the view. When we started going again, it was harder and harder to breath, because of the altitude change. After another hard hour or 2, we got to the pass! Right when we turned a corner, I saw all the prayer flags… so many of them it seemed like a huge spider web. I waited for my Dad and sisters, who were behind us, so we could all cross the pass together. I was SOOO happy to have made it to <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_K8Bmw2I/AAAAAAAABNE/MVdHj0_t-JY/s1600/IMG_4100.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_K8Bmw2I/AAAAAAAABNE/MVdHj0_t-JY/s200/IMG_4100.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540200686251590498" border="0" /></a>the top!<span style=""> </span>It was windy, so we went into a little tea shack , and had cups of hot lemon.<span style=""> </span>The tea house was really small with a long table inside and a little kitchen. Trekkers were crushed in there to<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAh7iN1QI/AAAAAAAABNk/bIQMEaSWLKw/s1600/IMG_5818.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAh7iN1QI/AAAAAAAABNk/bIQMEaSWLKw/s200/IMG_5818.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540202180768552194" border="0" /></a> stay warm and have tea. Finally we started down, down down the other side. “My knees hurt,” I said… “That’s why I use these poles,” said my Dad.<span style=""> </span>He let me use one sometimes.<span style=""> </span>Suddenly Eliza said, “I can see the town way below,” but it was still such a long way to go. We finally got to the town of Muktinath and slept there.<span style=""> </span>The Pass was the longest &amp; hardest day of the trek by far for me…<span style=""> </span>But I am so glad that we <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAjDUVDyI/AAAAAAAABNs/PinC9i4x4_8/s1600/IMG_5817.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLAjDUVDyI/AAAAAAAABNs/PinC9i4x4_8/s200/IMG_5817.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540202200037658402" border="0" /></a>did it!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b style=""><i style="">Eliza adds…</i></b> "I was freezing and tired as we hiked up the long winding switchbacks in the dark. I finally caught sight of the High <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLE7mM0RqI/AAAAAAAABOU/pqHy7B91uNU/s1600/IMG_4110.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLE7mM0RqI/AAAAAAAABOU/pqHy7B91uNU/s200/IMG_4110.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540207019764762274" border="0" /></a>Camp, which was just a few hotels. We took a long rest, and I ate a delicious Snickers Bar!<span style=""> </span>(Kumar, the nice guy who runs the hotel at Phedi, gave us the chocolate in the dark this morning!) It wasn’t as steep now, <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLCpAT55SI/AAAAAAAABN0/H7dOuIYjbOE/s1600/IMG_4124.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLCpAT55SI/AAAAAAAABN0/H7dOuIYjbOE/s200/IMG_4124.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540204501333042466" border="0" /></a>and the sun finally came up.<span style=""> </span>Then we crossed a bridge which stretched over a creek that was mostly frozen and barely running.<span style=""> </span>From the top of the next hill we could see just about where the Pass should be, but we had no idea how much further it was. I was still really tired, and my stomach started hurting… I also had to stop and rest every 5 or 10 minutes.<span style=""> </span>The problem was that we were getting up to almost 17,000 feet, and it was really <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_L_W7ybI/AAAAAAAABNU/WM1s448N--4/s1600/IMG_4130.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_L_W7ybI/AAAAAAAABNU/WM1s448N--4/s200/IMG_4130.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540200704326224306" border="0" /></a>hard to breathe! After a few hours, we finally made it to the Pass, which was extremely <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLDqFcmdJI/AAAAAAAABOE/ExWNFtvR3xg/s1600/IMG_5873.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLDqFcmdJI/AAAAAAAABOE/ExWNFtvR3xg/s200/IMG_5873.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540205619403191442" border="0" /></a>windy but extremely beautiful. It seemed like we could almost see into Tibet!<span style=""> </span>There were tons of prayer flags, and in one place it was like a huge web. So many prayer flags were piled up, it was as thick as a mattress.<span style=""> </span>I laid down there and looked at the view of glaciers and snowy peaks. Thorung Pass was AWESOME!!!"</p> <p class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal">I’d have to agree with Eliza, Thorung La <b style=""><i style="">was</i></b> awesome!<span style=""> </span>But more awesome than the hike itself were our kids’ attitudes &amp; effort today… We prepped them well &amp; pushed them pretty hard, but they<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLCqAY_AYI/AAAAAAAABN8/Q7YF7c6e3y4/s1600/IMG_5870.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLCqAY_AYI/AAAAAAAABN8/Q7YF7c6e3y4/s200/IMG_5870.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540204518534218114" border="0" /></a> were fabulously motivated to succeed!<span style=""> </span>Karen, Marcin &amp; I all took turns coaxing, encouraging, <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_LJcOTSI/AAAAAAAABNM/45ZdPmoZpso/s1600/IMG_4114.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOK_LJcOTSI/AAAAAAAABNM/45ZdPmoZpso/s200/IMG_4114.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540200689852894498" border="0" /></a>feeding, and chatting with the kids… But maintaining the continuous chatter of stories, questions &amp; observations, was challenging at this altitude! I was the most winded and wheezing of the group, bringing up the rear with Eliza… But at every turn, and every false summit, the landscape offered up yet another <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLDqtPoDqI/AAAAAAAABOM/ov9kyEqn_Rg/s1600/IMG_4112.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLDqtPoDqI/AAAAAAAABOM/ov9kyEqn_Rg/s200/IMG_4112.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540205630086188706" border="0" /></a>exquisite view.<span style=""> </span>In addition to the sweet views, the girls received countless compliments and words of encouragement from other impressed trekkers, some of whom were blown <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLE8MdjghI/AAAAAAAABOc/lw5-SX9JVgU/s1600/IMG_4147.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLE8MdjghI/AAAAAAAABOc/lw5-SX9JVgU/s200/IMG_4147.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540207030035513874" border="0" /></a>away to be passed by a smiling 6-year old singing cute little songs!<span style=""> </span>This sure stoked the girls confidence! </p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 0.5in;">Seeing their pure joy at the first sunlight on the Annapurnas, or when we crossed the frozen creek, or when we first spotted the prayer flags at the pass, was the “all day highlight” for me!<span style=""> </span>We were blessed with perfectly clear weather… blue skies, a bit of <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLGPZz1XGI/AAAAAAAABOk/aqW8XyTeJoc/s1600/IMG_4164.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOLGPZz1XGI/AAAAAAAABOk/aqW8XyTeJoc/s200/IMG_4164.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5540208459547761762" border="0" /></a>wind, and endless visibility.<span style=""> </span>Astounding views paired with the sweet sense of accomplishment made for a perfect &amp; memorable family day in the mountains! Then, of course, we had to descend… a knee-banging 5,500 foot drop down the steep slopes into Mustang district.<span style=""> </span>But the marvelous views of nearby glaciers, distant peaks, and lovely villages in full Fall colors far below, helped to alleviate the joint pain…<span style=""> </span>The ibuprofen helped a bit too!<span style=""> </span></p>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-29499381519442087332010-11-14T07:30:00.000-08:002010-11-14T09:14:13.016-08:00Around Annapurna #5 – Dayhikes in ManangMost trekkers spend an extra <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGg3t8rdI/AAAAAAAABJM/9_KmKhc0TGk/s1600/IMG_5283.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGg3t8rdI/AAAAAAAABJM/9_KmKhc0TGk/s200/IMG_5283.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539434703447961042" border="0" /></a>acclimatization night in Manang, and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAIE-kStlI/AAAAAAAABJc/MBXdM6bDF14/s1600/IMG_3839.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAIE-kStlI/AAAAAAAABJc/MBXdM6bDF14/s200/IMG_3839.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539436423273428562" border="0" /></a>we decided to spend three!<span style=""> </span>There are so many great day hikes to do, and the kids LOVED the quad room we found…<span style=""> </span>It was quite large, and had luscious views out the window of the Gangapurna Icefall.<span style=""> We</span> were so overjoyed, prancing about the room, that we HAD to stay longer!<span style=""> </span>(In that very room, while fiddling with battery chargers, Marcin and I managed to blow out the power for <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGhCNKU2I/AAAAAAAABJU/b38J4KamhwU/s1600/IMG_5296.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGhCNKU2I/AAAAAAAABJU/b38J4KamhwU/s200/IMG_5296.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539434706263233378" border="0" /></a>the entire hotel, and then fix things with duct tape, a ski pole, and the help of a nice Dutch trekker…) <p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOALxqYnC4I/AAAAAAAABJ8/5SiKJPB68iU/s1600/IMG_3877.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOALxqYnC4I/AAAAAAAABJ8/5SiKJPB68iU/s200/IMG_3877.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539440489484716930" border="0" /></a>Paul lived for a couple of weeks in Manang back in 1996, co-leading a summer service trip with Betty-Ann and 12 high school students for Global Routes.<span style=""> </span>Our project was to build a trail &amp; traditional wooden bridge across <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAEwnKYWvI/AAAAAAAABI8/Y1rKz0K6FmA/s1600/IMG_3795.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAEwnKYWvI/AAAAAAAABI8/Y1rKz0K6FmA/s200/IMG_3795.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539432774858463986" border="0" /></a>the outlet stream of Gangapurna Tal (lake), so that the locals could open a tea shop on the ridiculously scenic lakeshore.<span style=""> </span>It would be owned collectively, and proceeds would benefit a community fund for local schools…. Well, that was the plan back then!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">So our first hike was over to Ganga-Tal <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAIFOyxFnI/AAAAAAAABJk/TQhB2Fk0P3U/s1600/IMG_3811.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAIFOyxFnI/AAAAAAAABJk/TQhB2Fk0P3U/s200/IMG_3811.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539436427629106802" border="0" /></a>to see “Daddy’s bridge.”<span style=""> </span>I’m pleased to say that it was still there in great shape, as strong and sturdy as the day we completed it 14 years ago.<span style=""> </span>Of course, we built it under the supervision of 3 village carpenters, so they did most of the tricky work!<span style=""> </span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGgV6aPRI/AAAAAAAABJE/wbkL_MDxr1M/s1600/IMG_3857.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAGgV6aPRI/AAAAAAAABJE/wbkL_MDxr1M/s200/IMG_3857.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539434694373424402" border="0" /></a>Our students hauled thousands of heavy stones, carried freshly cut tree trunks 1,500’ down from the forest preserve, hoisted beams into place, and placed stone and wood exactly where the local experts directed us…. <span style=""> </span>It’s still a sweet bridge!<span style=""> </span>The tea house did get built once we’d departed, but its windows are now broken and it isn’t being used.<span style=""> </span>I <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAJZinY17I/AAAAAAAABJs/qe74OvXTaMQ/s1600/IMG_5320.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAJZinY17I/AAAAAAAABJs/qe74OvXTaMQ/s200/IMG_5320.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539437876059101106" border="0" /></a>couldn’t find anyone in Manang, either local folks or ACAP officials, who could recall when, or what, had happened to that project.<span style=""> </span>Ahhhh well…<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We also hiked up to a sweet viewpoint way above Gangapurna lake, sipped hot tea, and watched the avalanches blast down the vertical icefall…<span style=""> </span>The lateral moraines on this glacial <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAN0wNKJZI/AAAAAAAABKE/wr0F-IjyyiA/s1600/IMG_3880.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAN0wNKJZI/AAAAAAAABKE/wr0F-IjyyiA/s200/IMG_3880.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539442741610161554" border="0" /></a>canyon are astounding!<span style=""> </span>Back at the lake, I took an icy plunge, and the kids (...and Karen!) discovered goooey silty mud to enjoy…<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Another great hike was up the opposite side of the valley, to the ancient cave hermitage site occupied by “Lama Tashi.”<span style=""> </span>He’s <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAJZ4F9krI/AAAAAAAABJ0/Y3SANE5Ylwk/s1600/IMG_3861.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAJZ4F9krI/AAAAAAAABJ0/Y3SANE5Ylwk/s200/IMG_3861.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539437881824481970" border="0" /></a>90-something years old, and hasn’t left the spot for 40 years or so…. Fortunately his daughter is a nun, who treks down into Manang every week or 2 for supplies.<span style=""> </span>They’re well funded, as many trekkers come up for a visit, and he <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAQcsa3kwI/AAAAAAAABKk/MdmdW26VsaM/s1600/IMG_5338.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAQcsa3kwI/AAAAAAAABKk/MdmdW26VsaM/s200/IMG_5338.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539445626811945730" border="0" /></a>blesses them and says a prayer for their safe crossing of the Thorung La… for a donation, of course!<span style=""> </span>They keep a lovely garden, perched on this cliff side dwelling, with more eye-popping views out across the valley… a very lovely spot, especially if you’re going to pick one for a 40 year retreat!<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">We also enjoyed strolling around the town…<span style=""> </span>Despite the sprawling growth of trekker’s lodges, gear shops, “german” bakeries, &amp; <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAPe6ZbyII/AAAAAAAABKc/1TAdQtLnZDk/s1600/IMG_3835.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAPe6ZbyII/AAAAAAAABKc/1TAdQtLnZDk/s200/IMG_3835.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539444565412137090" border="0" /></a>coffee cafés, the old parts of Manang still look like they have for hundreds of years.<span style=""> </span>The medieval stone alleys are still fantastically fascinating and festering, chock full of wandering animals, prayer wheels, and snot-nosed kids laughing and <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAQc_CPTWI/AAAAAAAABKs/6TIJwe2SnvY/s1600/IMG_5395.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAQc_CPTWI/AAAAAAAABKs/6TIJwe2SnvY/s200/IMG_5395.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539445631808916834" border="0" /></a>playing.<span style=""> </span>It’s a wonderful place to wander, and with our kids, we get invited inside constantly… up on the roof to check out the harvest, into a courtyard to see the <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAPemT8cjI/AAAAAAAABKU/RHXs5b2fIyY/s1600/IMG_3830.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAPemT8cjI/AAAAAAAABKU/RHXs5b2fIyY/s200/IMG_3830.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539444560020402738" border="0" /></a>sheep, beckoned over and to compare Lupin’s height with the local kids…<span style=""> </span>Manang is still a great place to eat, explore, acclimatize, relax with a cinnamon roll or 2, and savour the remarkable mountain landscape!<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAN1BPyQSI/AAAAAAAABKM/op_UP3RgkgE/s1600/IMG_3833.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TOAN1BPyQSI/AAAAAAAABKM/op_UP3RgkgE/s200/IMG_3833.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539442746184581410" border="0" /></a> <span style=""> </span>There is even internet access… for a steep price! </p> <p class="MsoNormal"> We’re also prepping for crossing the Pass!<span style=""> </span>We’re feeling great… strong, happy, healthy (except for Dad’s stuffy nose!), and optimistic.<span style=""> </span>We hired a kind quiet porter named Prem to carry the girls packs for the next 3 days, to make their high-altitude crossing as successful, and enjoyable, as possible.<span style=""> </span>One more lazy day, and then we head UP to the highest altitude our girls have ever experienced….</p><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwcCho1-pY7SKCd1_lOsVKF4H_6qWqQzLLO0Iu6RHxhSu3wWZPyPkQKNasCTVzdqzcYBUOnWR3O7yIC-C2Wdw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' FRAMEBORDER='0' />Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-59981571714315857432010-11-14T01:01:00.000-08:002010-11-14T02:52:35.174-08:00Changu Narayan Dayhike...This was one of those wonderful rambling days that makes<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-o9ACb2qI/AAAAAAAABGs/7QOlMR_5BQ0/s1600/IMG_6438.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-o9ACb2qI/AAAAAAAABGs/7QOlMR_5BQ0/s200/IMG_6438.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539331832624700066" border="0" /></a> traveling so sweet… A leisurely, scenic, spontaneous outing with family &amp; friends, wandering through rice fields, villages, forests, temples and traffic jams, concluding in the “golden hour” of sunset strolling back through quiet cool farmlands on the outskirts of town…<br /><br />We’ve always wanted to visit the Changu Narayan temple, but after many trips to Nepal, have never managed to do so. It’s <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-yVOBoVPI/AAAAAAAABG8/5E0jN1Ho6HA/s1600/IMG_6435.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-yVOBoVPI/AAAAAAAABG8/5E0jN1Ho6HA/s200/IMG_6435.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539342144300930290" border="0" /></a>well known as a UNESCO treasure trove of ancient stone carvings and fine woodworking, but it’s quite a ways out of town… most tourists never get out there, typically opting for the easier (and awesome) sites of Pashupatinath and Swoyumbunath (“monkey temple”) during their short time in the Kathmandu Valley. When I was leading treks, there was minimal free time… A day or two in Kathmandu, out into the mountains for a few weeks, then back to town for a quick farewell dinner, a day of shopping, and poof, fly home… This is what I am LOVING about our “Fall in Nepal” plan. Actually living in KTM for an extended period allows us to slow down, get to know our neighbors and neighborhood, and do those unusual outings with plenty of time to enjoy them…<br /><br />So we hopped on a crowded local bus with our good friends, the Canapary <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-yVVZglKI/AAAAAAAABHE/aMohUZ8oXG0/s1600/IMG_6446.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-yVVZglKI/AAAAAAAABHE/aMohUZ8oXG0/s200/IMG_6446.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539342146280133794" border="0" /></a>family, and jostled and rumbled out towards Bramakhel. The kids LOVE standing up, cramming into crowded buses, riding on the roof (when possible), and just hanging on tight… local transport seems like a carnival ride for them, so they’re always game! Had to ask several locals where the trail was, and we were re-directed multiple times, but all the directions, accurate or bogus, are delivered with a laugh and a smile. We eventually found the trail, crossed the little bridge, admired the rice harvest, and newly planted potato crop… Well outside the chaos of densely populated Kathmandu, it feels so relaxed, refreshing and clean out here in the fields!!! This is what most of the KTM valley used to look like! Up a steep wandering trail, we chatted with locals, played with kids, and swung on a marvelous bamboo swing left over from the <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-1AhW19WI/AAAAAAAABHM/lKXclAyU_PU/s1600/IMG_6450.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-1AhW19WI/AAAAAAAABHM/lKXclAyU_PU/s200/IMG_6450.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539345087247807842" border="0" /></a>Dashain festival. Almost to the top of the hill, we were stalled out for at least an hour by “the cutest baby goats EVER in the world!!!” We had to work pretty hard to avoid adopting several… <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-2sPz2JkI/AAAAAAAABHc/FM00DbUJn1I/s1600/IMG_6460.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-2sPz2JkI/AAAAAAAABHc/FM00DbUJn1I/s200/IMG_6460.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539346937963488834" border="0" /></a>We just might have to become goat farmers back in CA. Our kids are SO in love with baby goats, that we made up a related hiking song: “Bahkra manparchha, bahkra manparchha, sano bahkra, tulo bahkra, bahkra manparchha!” It just means “I love <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-1BCQtDMI/AAAAAAAABHU/-X5xwtYHArw/s1600/IMG_6455.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-1BCQtDMI/AAAAAAAABHU/-X5xwtYHArw/s200/IMG_6455.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539345096080428226" border="0" /></a>goats, I love goats, small goats, big goats, I love goats.” Not that complex, but the tune is catchy. Finally we made it to the top of the hill, with wonderful views over the hazy valley, and headed into the narrow lanes of the village. Ate a nice late lunch, again <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-2stxFLSI/AAAAAAAABHk/YRT0VVCjVGQ/s1600/IMG_6472.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-2stxFLSI/AAAAAAAABHk/YRT0VVCjVGQ/s200/IMG_6472.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539346946004954402" border="0" /></a>significantly delayed by cute animals (this time puppies!), and finally entered the Temple complex. The temple is dedicated<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-55k1U8VI/AAAAAAAABH8/2Ka8u7zUiaU/s1600/IMG_6476.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-55k1U8VI/AAAAAAAABH8/2Ka8u7zUiaU/s200/IMG_6476.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539350465480028498" border="0" /></a> to Narayan (one of the incarnations of Vishnu), and is one of the oldest in Nepal… The courtyard is brimming with gorgeous stone carvings dating from the 5th-7th centuries; one famous inscription was apparently carved back in 464 AD. The temple itself is the classic Newari/Nepali pagods style building, with intricately carved doors, window, and roof-support beams… <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-555LfQUI/AAAAAAAABIE/VTOr68F5D1Q/s1600/IMG_6479.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-555LfQUI/AAAAAAAABIE/VTOr68F5D1Q/s200/IMG_6479.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539350470941688130" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-4CMW_afI/AAAAAAAABHs/4e9JKfrIF4E/s1600/IMG_6486.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-4CMW_afI/AAAAAAAABHs/4e9JKfrIF4E/s200/IMG_6486.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539348414505904626" border="0" /></a>some of these are a bit horrifying, with gods dismembering demons or ripping out their guts by hand, while others have more erotic themes. I guess back in the day you might have brought your kids by and showed them what might happen if they didn’t behave themselves properly! There was golden metal-work on the doors, plenty of incense burning, and red tika powder and offerings on many of the statues. All of these works of art, like in much of Nepal, are priceless museum pieces. There is (or was) such an unbelievable wealth of outdoor shrines, carvings, temples, and <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-7Ceur8cI/AAAAAAAABIM/b3_Q7DOV_NE/s1600/IMG_6503.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-7Ceur8cI/AAAAAAAABIM/b3_Q7DOV_NE/s200/IMG_6503.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539351717972013506" border="0" /></a>statues scattered on every street <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-4CaQiLSI/AAAAAAAABH0/VT7krzFEwhM/s1600/IMG_6468.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-4CaQiLSI/AAAAAAAABH0/VT7krzFEwhM/s200/IMG_6468.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539348418236919074" border="0" /></a>corner in Kathmandu Valley, that the entire valley was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site… Some of the best bits have been stolen by art thieves, but it still amazes me how much ancient art can be found at every turn, on every street corner, and on the walls of random homes… A recently renovated house in the village had shiny new <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-7C3Y7yKI/AAAAAAAABIU/h5vuohdzgp0/s1600/IMG_6504.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-7C3Y7yKI/AAAAAAAABIU/h5vuohdzgp0/s200/IMG_6504.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539351724591663266" border="0" /></a>bricks, and was obviously mid-way through the construction project. But the 500 year old Ganesha figure had been carefully set aside during <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-8XdbFgLI/AAAAAAAABIc/97Ehu3wAGvw/s1600/IMG_6507.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-8XdbFgLI/AAAAAAAABIc/97Ehu3wAGvw/s200/IMG_6507.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539353177910247602" border="0" /></a>construction, and replaced on the outer wall of their house for passers-by to worship and do puja… just as they’ve been doing for centuries.<br /><br />Another sweet thing about Changu is the quiet…. It is a bit remote, so even though there are souvenir shops lining the entry path, and we are here during the <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-_T0KUE1I/AAAAAAAABIs/aV59rV5XKj0/s1600/IMG_6515.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-_T0KUE1I/AAAAAAAABIs/aV59rV5XKj0/s200/IMG_6515.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539356413829321554" border="0" /></a>peak trekking season, we saw <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-8Xl52SKI/AAAAAAAABIk/lWKVCkfR-Qg/s1600/IMG_6521.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TN-8Xl52SKI/AAAAAAAABIk/lWKVCkfR-Qg/s200/IMG_6521.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5539353180186757282" border="0" /></a>just a few tourists. So peaceful and mellow compared to some other swarming sites! Finally we descended the hill, with sunset approaching, bade farewell to the cute animals, and enjoyed strolling home in the evening glow… If we hadn’t lingered with goats and puppies all day, our timing would have been all wrong! Thanks be to cute animals!!! The harvest is coming in; one last load before dark. Locals stopping us on the path to say Namaste, and ask our names. Our girls skipping along the trail singing the goat song… A lovely evening in the incredibly picturesque Nepali countryside.Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-45260527849138730462010-11-10T22:12:00.000-08:002010-11-14T02:56:16.497-08:00Manasarovar Academy - Tibetan Welcome Dances<span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Karen writes....</span> Life can be so surreal sometimes here in Nepal.<span style=""> </span>What does that say about life at home I wonder?<span style=""> </span>More thought on that later I promise… <p class="MsoNormal">Today at Manasarovar Academy was quite singular for me.<span style=""> </span>We arrived at our usual time of 9ish knowing that the French reps from <span style="font-weight: bold;">Graines d’Avenir</span>, the main charity NGO <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuLOuYf2QI/AAAAAAAABEM/iq75dkJRAr8/s1600/IMG_6730.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuLOuYf2QI/AAAAAAAABEM/iq75dkJRAr8/s200/IMG_6730.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538173251867367682" border="0" /></a>supporting the school would be coming for a visit and that the students would be performing a dance for them.<span style=""> </span>We knew that it would be a very important day for Bijaya and Tsultrim and that our teaching expectations should be <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuKfaCJ4gI/AAAAAAAABD0/aoOB9LppoFU/s1600/IMG_6732.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuKfaCJ4gI/AAAAAAAABD0/aoOB9LppoFU/s200/IMG_6732.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538172438951092738" border="0" /></a>nil.<span style=""> </span>I just didn’t expect the range of emotion that I was privy to all day.</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Upon arriving I asked what I could do to help prepare the students was whisked away to class #1 where no less than 25 girls were costumed and ready for their make-up!<span style=""> </span>The colors!!<span style=""> </span>Silky Tibetan dresses of every color combination imaginable filled the dim room.<span style=""> </span>The girls were calm and excited waiting their turns as I (Mmm Hmm) powdered and colored each lovely young faces with colors to rival <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuKf-5nrGI/AAAAAAAABD8/opv5nG9gY90/s1600/IMG_6735.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuKf-5nrGI/AAAAAAAABD8/opv5nG9gY90/s200/IMG_6735.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538172448847408226" border="0" /></a>any spring blooms! <span style=""> </span>Hold still…close your eyes. Open.<span style=""> </span>Wider.<span style=""> </span>I chanted as I applied eyeliner to their shapely eyes and bright color to their soft lips.<span style=""> </span>The joy was palpable in the stuffy room, but what I noted with surprise was the complete lack of nerves.<span style=""> </span>No anxious giggling, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuLOXfOWuI/AAAAAAAABEE/xjB85R9gN5k/s1600/IMG_6737.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuLOXfOWuI/AAAAAAAABEE/xjB85R9gN5k/s200/IMG_6737.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538173245721565922" border="0" /></a>no edgy commentary.<span style=""> </span>Just pure happiness to be where they were, and to be giving a dance to the French visitors.<span style=""> </span>I also couldn’t help noticing that there were no parents in the room.<span style=""> </span>Now this is no surprise here in Nepal of course, but the parents where I come from would NEVER have let their kids perform in any kind of show without their presence.<span style=""> </span>But this show was one of the first times that I have really noticed how the kids <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuMS2Wy8II/AAAAAAAABEU/lJuThZnVyq0/s1600/IMG_6744.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuMS2Wy8II/AAAAAAAABEU/lJuThZnVyq0/s200/IMG_6744.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538174422238818434" border="0" /></a>really owned the presentation themselves.<span style=""> </span>No doting, fussing parents here to take credit, hold expectations, give advice or set up their many tri-pods and video cameras in the aisles.<span style=""> </span>Even when the boys came into the room to paint on their mustaches, the mood only got sweeter as the boys praised the girls with genuine admiration and maybe even a little awe at their new appearance.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQuDSUGwI/AAAAAAAABEk/XExDdTMsUR8/s1600/IMG_6757.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQuDSUGwI/AAAAAAAABEk/XExDdTMsUR8/s200/IMG_6757.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538179287612660482" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> The visitors were a bit late, but no matter for the kids.<span style=""> </span>They were <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuMTHHzq1I/AAAAAAAABEc/MJVhqrmHxW4/s1600/IMG_6754.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuMTHHzq1I/AAAAAAAABEc/MJVhqrmHxW4/s200/IMG_6754.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538174426739354450" border="0" /></a>patient and very gracious when the important guests arrived.<span style=""> </span>There were brief greetings, the ceremonial gifting of "kata" scarves, and then everyone took seats and the show began.<span style=""> </span>Music played by a gentleman on Tibetan stringed instruments <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQuhPmJQI/AAAAAAAABE0/kpfDr_hIR-Q/s1600/IMG_6810.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQuhPmJQI/AAAAAAAABE0/kpfDr_hIR-Q/s200/IMG_6810.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538179295654323458" border="0" /></a>(called ???) accompanied the dancers who were truly flawless in their renditions of traditional dances.<span style=""> </span>I could almost picture the farmers harvesting as the kids whirled their long silky sleeves and twirled their skilled bodies past one another in moving formations on the plains of Tibet.<span style=""> </span>As I was noticing every kid confidently moving in unison and feeling moved by their cultural resurrection, I glanced up to the 3<sup>rd</sup> floor balcony to see two smiling, toothless, old onlookers in maroon robes gazing down on the <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNucps5tXmI/AAAAAAAABE8/GBO8ix2W5eA/s1600/IMG_6762.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNucps5tXmI/AAAAAAAABE8/GBO8ix2W5eA/s200/IMG_6762.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538192407023935074" border="0" /></a>spectacle.<span style=""> </span>I thought they were pleased with what they saw from the looks on their faces.<span style=""> </span>I imagined that they were feeling moved as I was by the students’ rendition of the dances.<span style=""> </span>In fact I felt them watching with memories flowing from some far away time and place where <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQudyvoZI/AAAAAAAABEs/a61JDWqwVwo/s1600/IMG_6766.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNuQudyvoZI/AAAAAAAABEs/a61JDWqwVwo/s200/IMG_6766.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538179294728003986" border="0" /></a>maybe even they themselves danced these same patterns.<span style=""> </span>And maybe they were even feeling grateful for the fact that these dances were part of a great act by the teachers and students of this school to keep Tibet alive in tangible ways like music and dance and costumes.<span style=""> </span>The way the kids owned these dances made me even more sure that these elderly spectators could not have missed these truths folded in to the event.<span style=""> </span>My own tears made the kids sparkle even more than their make-up.<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNucqdo-GOI/AAAAAAAABFE/aCUCjUrrqOI/s1600/IMG_6800.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNucqdo-GOI/AAAAAAAABFE/aCUCjUrrqOI/s200/IMG_6800.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538192420107065570" border="0" /></a><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> There were 6 or 7 dances by the<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNudpQ11CmI/AAAAAAAABFM/LJtS4xyz1kY/s1600/IMG_6803.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNudpQ11CmI/AAAAAAAABFM/LJtS4xyz1kY/s200/IMG_6803.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538193499003095650" border="0" /></a> junior and senior dancers and then 2 kids from class 5 did their own Bollywood solo performances and were quite good.<span style=""> </span>The kids showed their respect and approval at the end of each and there we were.<span style=""> </span>Full of chai and the emotion of a heart felt gifted performance.<span style=""> </span>I felt it was a gift.<span style=""> </span>Straight from the kids and teachers.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"> Paul was feeling sick and achey, and went home after the show, to <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNudpglhnmI/AAAAAAAABFU/DSj2ok9rbu4/s1600/IMG_6842.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNudpglhnmI/AAAAAAAABFU/DSj2ok9rbu4/s200/IMG_6842.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5538193503229681250" border="0" /></a>everyone’s disappointment.<span style=""> </span>(they <span style="font-style: italic;">LOVE </span>him there of course) but the rest of us including other volunteers Melissa and Keiran, Olivier and Leika and kids, our kids, the French delegation and their friends – 2 Tibetan ladies, were all escorted upstairs to the boarding floor where a long table was fashioned from desks and chairs (from who knows where).<span style=""> </span>The food was plentiful and delicious!<span style=""> </span>There were momos, soup, bitter gourd, greens, more momos and chili sauce, the gooey fruity balls that I love so much, and curd.<span style=""> </span>What a feast!<span style=""> </span>All tasty and hot served by class 5 who carried all the items up &amp; down several flights dark stairs to make it a special luncheon.<span style=""> </span>I felt really honored to be there… More than at any 5 star restaurant, in the most elite company.<span style=""> </span>These women really worked to make it wonderful.<span style=""> </span>And again, without any visible stress.<span style=""> </span>Just warmth.<span style=""> </span>I am so touched…</p><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='242' height='201' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwEmnRc9ptLWGOxDi2EOYFt54ACU9SlB2PGGmbX-2CWyspoCH8FNrL1SdcV7V9RCjNw9bqEpFPVeoo65bvNlw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' FRAMEBORDER='0' />Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-5135787679965414262010-11-09T06:55:00.000-08:002010-11-09T09:47:19.474-08:00Annapurna Circuit #4 - Pisang, Gyaru, Ngawal, BragaAfter a spectacular morning avalanche off of Annapurna 2, we <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlrLkcup8I/AAAAAAAABBk/ck4WTGLzJ-A/s1600/IMG_3511.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlrLkcup8I/AAAAAAAABBk/ck4WTGLzJ-A/s200/IMG_3511.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537575063335643074" border="0" /></a>continued trekking.... ever upwards, ever changing life-zones and habitats. What a fabulous cross section of the Himalaya on this trek! In these next 2 days we climb through cool pine forests, cross some arid stretches, and approach the sub-alpine zone <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlibBZCcQI/AAAAAAAABA8/HpUpYXZq8zo/s1600/IMG_3486.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlibBZCcQI/AAAAAAAABA8/HpUpYXZq8zo/s200/IMG_3486.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537565433198178562" border="0" /></a>with it's shorter trees and low-lying flowers and shrubs.... An amazing transition from rice paddies just a few days back!<br /><br />The girls are hiking strong, enjoying (almost) every minute, and bringing smiles to many locals faces! Plenty of trekkers and also lodge owners also ask, "will you take the small girls over the Pass? ...will you try the Thorung La?" We always <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlibQtSHFI/AAAAAAAABBE/hu5dJ5IhiLk/s1600/IMG_3526.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlibQtSHFI/AAAAAAAABBE/hu5dJ5IhiLk/s200/IMG_3526.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537565437309623378" border="0" /></a>reply the same way, as we've been prepping the girls from the start. We are hoping to make it over the pass, but if any of us (adults included!) has altitude problems, we'll turn back in Manang. The scenery is <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlp05IaeRI/AAAAAAAABBM/WmxBK8Z5Eu4/s1600/IMG_3527.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlp05IaeRI/AAAAAAAABBM/WmxBK8Z5Eu4/s200/IMG_3527.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537573574238959890" border="0" /></a>astounding on this side of the Pass, and if we got to see it twice, that would be a marvelous hike indeed! But we are also moving slowly, planning extra acclimatization days, and have plenty of time to change our schedule. We know the kids are strong enough to hike the Pass; the altitude is the only real unknown... We'll take it day by day, and see how we feel as we ascend.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlwOfsgDVI/AAAAAAAABCE/7-vR93Hc9Ls/s1600/IMG_3584.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlwOfsgDVI/AAAAAAAABCE/7-vR93Hc9Ls/s200/IMG_3584.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537580611157364050" border="0" /></a><br />Now the scenery is getting truly astounding! The snowy peaks and hanging glaciers are always present, and the jaw-dropping verticality of the landscape is mind-bending! We have to pinch ourselves sometimes to <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlp1FC7oNI/AAAAAAAABBU/sR4UkGKHkHQ/s1600/IMG_3514.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlp1FC7oNI/AAAAAAAABBU/sR4UkGKHkHQ/s200/IMG_3514.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537573577437192402" border="0" /></a>see if it's real. The hike into Pisang offers 2 options... Stay low on the main route, and find a lodge in trekker-oriented Lower Pisang, or ascend a long traverse to stay in less visited Upper Pisang. The upper option is certainly the better choice! What an amazing "real" village! Old stone houses, hundreds of years old... A couple of small crusty guest houses, surrounded by narrow alleyways, animal pens, stone walls, and countless prayer flags. It is a functioning<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlwOtiJwVI/AAAAAAAABCM/L05-NKU2zyY/s1600/IMG_5106.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlwOtiJwVI/AAAAAAAABCM/L05-NKU2zyY/s200/IMG_5106.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537580614872056146" border="0" /></a> town, with extensive agricultural fields all around, not dependent on the trekking industry. And what a view! Holy toledo.... I should just switch over to a few journal entries to capture the feelings of those sweet days:<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">From Paul's Journal</span> - "Nice mellow 2 hour hike through pine forests to Bhratang, then some tougher uphills through trails cut into vertical granite cliffs. Ridiculous views of the massive "skateramp" glacial ridge "Swargadwari Danda." So <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNltGDFO5-I/AAAAAAAABB0/khmd7SMDBTE/s1600/IMG_3504.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNltGDFO5-I/AAAAAAAABB0/khmd7SMDBTE/s200/IMG_3504.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537577167502632930" border="0" /></a>smooth, so consistent, so HUGE! Up, up, up steep trails into cool birch, pine, and fir forests to Dhiker Pokhari. We got to Dhiker a bit early to stop for the day (2pm), so we gave the decision to the girls... They all wanted to push on to Pisang. As soon as we peeled off the main drag, with its pack trains, large <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlsVs3fU_I/AAAAAAAABBs/V5hGyN_ZbD8/s1600/IMG_3536.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlsVs3fU_I/AAAAAAAABBs/V5hGyN_ZbD8/s200/IMG_3536.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537576336905688050" border="0" /></a>trekking groups, mountain bikes, snack bars and trekking lodges galore, we were finally hiking on a "real" trail. Didn't see a soul for 2 hours on this narrow "single-track" path! Hiked leisurely along <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNltG_pNbOI/AAAAAAAABB8/mpDzKeq0kzw/s1600/IMG_3554.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNltG_pNbOI/AAAAAAAABB8/mpDzKeq0kzw/s200/IMG_3554.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537577183759658210" border="0" /></a>surrounded by edelweiss, juicy red rose hips galore, and marvelous bird sightings! Many times the kids remarked, "I love this <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlxLdJ0l8I/AAAAAAAABCU/fPMefPLEOzA/s1600/IMG_3562.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlxLdJ0l8I/AAAAAAAABCU/fPMefPLEOzA/s200/IMG_3562.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537581658447058882" border="0" /></a>place! It reminds me of Tuolumne.... or of Wyoming..." Suddenly you round a corner, and BAM, there is the authentic ancient stone village of Upper Pisang! Our little hotel, in the uppermost part of town, seems like an afterthought, built as a newer upper floor perched on top of a 300 <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15P6MQ3I/AAAAAAAABC0/vkOOqL-6Ads/s1600/IMG_3660.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15P6MQ3I/AAAAAAAABC0/vkOOqL-6Ads/s200/IMG_3660.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537586843212333938" border="0" /></a>year old stone house. Wouldn't do well in an earthquake, but so worth the climb to be hovering above this splendid village, hundreds of meters above the valley floor, with Annapurna <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlxL6feyZI/AAAAAAAABCc/aJXjYAt012k/s1600/IMG_3580.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNlxL6feyZI/AAAAAAAABCc/aJXjYAt012k/s200/IMG_3580.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537581666322532754" border="0" /></a>2 exploding 25,000 feet up into the sky right in your face."<br /><br />The next day was the highlight of our year.... so far! Walking the "high route" traverse from Upper Pisang to Gyaru and Ngawal was one of the absolute finest hiking days of our lives! The ascent from Upper Pisang to Gyaru was also the steepest, most difficult push of the trek for the kids <span style="font-style: italic;">and </span>adults.... but SO WORTH IT!!!!<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15te9pzI/AAAAAAAABDE/TdHGilv3F1c/s1600/IMG_3666.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15te9pzI/AAAAAAAABDE/TdHGilv3F1c/s200/IMG_3666.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537586851151193906" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">From Eliza's Journal</span> - "Have you ever woken up to the most unbelievable view of glaciers and Annapurna 2, and hiked the most incredibly steep "hill" of the entire trek that you thought you'd pass out?"<br /><br />"Have you ever hiked into a medieval stone village with prayer flags on every roof flapping in the wind?"<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl1BkBoMLI/AAAAAAAABCk/cZkWF44J0nk/s1600/IMG_3616.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl1BkBoMLI/AAAAAAAABCk/cZkWF44J0nk/s200/IMG_3616.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537585886539559090" border="0" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15eAAaDI/AAAAAAAABC8/nk6R-wpyb5o/s1600/IMG_3668.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl15eAAaDI/AAAAAAAABC8/nk6R-wpyb5o/s200/IMG_3668.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537586846994819122" border="0" /></a><br />"Have you ever done an incredible traverse with breathtaking views of the whole Annapurna Range the entire day?"<br /><br />"Have you ever slept in a breezy village with barley and buckwheat growing all around, and awoken to the sound of cows and ponys and then seen your very first Yak!?"<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">From Paul's </span>- "Ahhh... the arduous haul up 1,500' of steeeep switchbacks to Gyaru! Only "name that tune," frequent snacks, water breaks, and the Geography <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7LbkWZLI/AAAAAAAABDM/_NB9encvsOM/s1600/IMG_3699.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7LbkWZLI/AAAAAAAABDM/_NB9encvsOM/s200/IMG_3699.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537592653137732786" border="0" /></a>Game saved us! The kids were right on the edge of cracking, but they DID it! WE did it! And <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl1B88KerI/AAAAAAAABCs/OIXxyLQLINg/s1600/IMG_3654.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl1B88KerI/AAAAAAAABCs/OIXxyLQLINg/s200/IMG_3654.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537585893227526834" border="0" /></a>Karen even spotted 7 new bird species... After lunch, the traverse from Gyaru to Ngawal was T.H.E. highlight of the entire trip so far! Unreal views... Such a sweet hike! We felt so lucky to have earned those views, to be looking donw a couple of thousand feet to the river below, and then UP twelve-thousand-plus to Annapurna 2. What a ridiculous perfect afternoon! Mani walls on steep trails, falcons &amp; lammergeiers soaring overhead, dizzying steep cliffs, astounding snow-capped peaks... Pisang Peak, Anna.2, Lamjung in the distance... Pine forests, alpine flowers... We felt SO grateful for today. Such a high it brought tears to my eyes a few times. The kids loved it, cruising all afternoon on a high traverse. What a sweet gift to be able to share <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7M32gWjI/AAAAAAAABDc/OOehzjLpQAI/s1600/IMG_5260.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7M32gWjI/AAAAAAAABDc/OOehzjLpQAI/s200/IMG_5260.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537592677909944882" border="0" /></a>this with them!!!"<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl8dV082lI/AAAAAAAABDk/PSnzHEI3yDo/s1600/IMG_5204.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl8dV082lI/AAAAAAAABDk/PSnzHEI3yDo/s200/IMG_5204.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537594060346022482" border="0" /></a><br />Spent a fine night in Ngawal, another quiet town surrounded by crops being harvested, and huge herds of ponies, sheep, goats &amp; yaks. The walk to Braga was mostly downhill!? Gaining altitude.... Losing altitude.... That's Nepal! The kids were getting hot and tired, begging for lunch or a rest, when suddenly their <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl8d57uzuI/AAAAAAAABDs/LInj2rw-2yw/s1600/IMG_5118.JPG"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl8d57uzuI/AAAAAAAABDs/LInj2rw-2yw/s200/IMG_5118.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537594070038138594" border="0" /></a>energy level soared! Another highlight for the girls was this surprise scree slope! Their lethargy evaporated, and as they scurried up and down the sandy hill for several whoooping leaping runs! "Can we stay here ALL day Dad? Can we come back here tomorrow too!?" They loved it! Rolling into Braga, we re-joined the main busy trail, and suddenly were back <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7L_HtkeI/AAAAAAAABDU/_JkjH-iRzxA/s1600/IMG_3784.JPG"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNl7L_HtkeI/AAAAAAAABDU/_JkjH-iRzxA/s200/IMG_3784.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5537592662681293282" border="0" /></a>in the midst of crowds of individual trekkers, large groups with matching shirts, and pack trains hauling supplies. A shock after 2 days of quiet solitude... But Braga also offers a truly luscious bakery, and an amazing ancient monastery clinging to the ridge. We enjoyed the fine views up the wide river valley to Manang, where we'll spend a few days acclimatizing with a few day hikes. It's good to be at high altitude!!!<br /><br /><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='275' height='229' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzMJq3if6Ch0CRCPhnOqzGT8U7J5fX6X5gV4-Kzxi-N8Wkazemj7yDzOhxYZYMf3XxyEYO40VUbmYrGeOBkfA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='262' height='217' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwcN7ht40Blyvk6wyYqdE_PO6VGBLjeOBueuI4xFekh3FEg6xsXrn2j3iSVqgkLXGKw8uyvRldCzhOf6DGztQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' FRAMEBORDER='0' />Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-16400262724487788862010-11-05T09:53:00.001-07:002010-11-05T11:17:55.674-07:00Maya & Dawn's Arrival!!!Yeah! The big day has FINALLY come, and our girls are ecstatic!Our El Portal friends, the Canapary Family, arrived last night!!! Edward, Andrea, Maya &amp; Dawn flew in from Bangladesh at night, and we had quite a fine reunion at the airport... They'll stay here in Nepal for a month and a half, volunteering at an orphanage, and then joining us for trekking, rafting, and<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNQ67Q7sAbI/AAAAAAAABAE/Pk4HufEHiRg/s200/IMG_4594.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536114631777190322" /> elephanting in Chitwan. It is SO fun to greet friends in foreign countries! What a blast to meet them, and just whisk them "home" to our guest house down familiar streets and alleys.... We'll have a few vacation days from school, due to the Tihar holiday, so we can explore together.<div><br /></div><div>As we were waiting for their emergence from the immigration and screening area, we were entertained by the presence of a huge dead rat.... right on the floor in the middle of the exit doors! About a hundred travelers walked right by, and over it, without making contact. It was astounding! No one would make eye contact with the Rat, but their feet, luggage carts, and roller suitcases all missed the thing by mere centimeters! Just to the left..... just to the right.... </div><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNQ-X0PXlGI/AAAAAAAABAM/sVPlqu3mzJQ/s200/IMG_4577.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536118420826199138" /><div>right over it with wheels, but straddling it on each side. When the Canaparys arrived, they ran over to our waiting girls, danced around, hugged &amp; squealed.... but never squashed the rat. It could still be there. Watch your step when you fly into Kathmandu!!!</div><div><br /></div><div><iframe allowFullScreen='true' webkitallowfullscreen='true' mozallowfullscreen='true' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwrqkL3qLv8Xm9mpGloZMLeuXZmb4OrQAXgK2fiLl5qOvHe_3Yki7afW0OVeOAKUPd30F6eryTHV70MQhXUnA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' FRAMEBORDER='0' /></div>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4438461299361591071.post-88967637611669171132010-10-31T09:07:00.000-07:002010-11-05T12:00:59.044-07:00Annapurna Circuit #3 - Karte, Dharapani, Donakyu, Timang, Chame<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2Rq6Gj5qI/AAAAAAAAA-c/TJXOXe_2n5U/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG"><span class="Apple-style-span">After enjoying the local "bunny emporium" in back of our guest </span></a><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2Rq6Gj5qI/AAAAAAAAA-c/TJXOXe_2n5U/s200/IMG_3268.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534239683445515938" /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2Rq6Gj5qI/AAAAAAAAA-c/TJXOXe_2n5U/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">house</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">, and saying g</span></span></a></span><span class="Apple-style-span"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2Rq6Gj5qI/AAAAAAAAA-c/TJXOXe_2n5U/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span">oodbye to our kind hosts in Tal, we strolled out of town. <img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2Y54ycX1I/AAAAAAAAA-8/6TTY--XgS7Q/s200/IMG_3277.JPG" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534247637372133202" />From now on we'll be passing under Kani arches, walking alongside Mani Walls, and spinning prayer wheels on the exit and entry of every settlement we pass. The sheer cliffs around Tal are pretty famous for waterfalls, and we had a bit of a <img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2RrFU3Y2I/AAAAAAAAA-k/DDo8QjAF1jU/s200/IMG_3287.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534239686458303330" />Mist Trail to walk through as soon as we headed up canyon.</span></span></a></span><div><br /></div><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2YKJNLIYI/AAAAAAAAA-s/nVdVSl-sxiA/s200/IMG_4918.JPG" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534246817145495938" /><div>Now we are in the heart of one of th</div><div>e deepest canyons on earth. With two 8,000+ meter peaks on e</div><div>ither side of us (Annapurnas just to the West, and Manaslu looming to the East), we are something like 6,000 meters below the summits... 20,000 feet down?! Amazing topography! This astounding gorge cuts straight North-South through the Himalaya. The river predates the major Himalayan uplift, and</div><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2by5-fa2I/AAAAAAAAA_c/dDwoHM9p5qo/s200/IMG_3352.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534250815966899042" />was downcutting at a faster rate than the mountains were rising. Thus the Marsyangdi cuts thru the main Himalayan chain, and we benefit by following it "gradually" uphill across the mightiest mountains on earth. In just a few days we'll have walked clear through the range, <img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2YKS7QsYI/AAAAAAAAA-0/2jkLMkIhCOI/s200/IMG_3317.JPG" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534246819754717570" />and be north of the main summits, in a bit of an arid rain-shadow. But for now, we justkeep on climbing, crossing wacky bridges, visiting with smiling locals, and enjoying marvelous views.<div><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TM2bySgnU3I/AAAAAAAAA_U/edQ4eogjA_8/s200/IMG_3346.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534250805372605298" /></div><div>Ate a Fine dalbaht in Dharapani, then passed through Bagarchap to finally find a lodge in "Donkey Cute." Actually it's spelled Donaque or Donakyu, but we're so fond of donkeys .... </div><div><br /></div><div>Karen found a massive chunk of chocolate in her pack, and there was MUCH rejoicing! Our wonderful host family invited us into the kitchen all evening to sit by the hearth, "help"them cook, and also help them quaff several mugs of locally distilled rakshi. </div><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNRN3fvKK2I/AAAAAAAABAc/rvfj94my_wg/s200/IMG_3416.JPG" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536135457752623970" /> We slept well that night!<div><br /></div><div>A fine walk the next day, up</div><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNRPfSO60GI/AAAAAAAABAk/jzCJnntLi_E/s200/IMG_3424.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536137240834134114" /><div> UP Uphill towards Timang. The old trail down low, through Latamarang, is now being destroyed and buried by the road blasting, so a new town on the new route is being built up with an overabundance of hotels and tea houses.... We met some wonderful kids along the trail, and Timang did give us our first killer views of an 8,000+ peak.Manaslu rose up into the clear blue sky... the 8th highest peak</div><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNRN3LbscwI/AAAAAAAABAU/Ugjngkl9iAQ/s200/IMG_3380.JPG" style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536135452302275330" /><div>on earth! From now</div><div> on, we'll be seeing stunning snowy</div><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNRPfn5DGPI/AAAAAAAABAs/Dq9gJ7oB748/s200/IMG_3464.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 150px; height: 200px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536137246647982322" /><div> peaks every day, dripping with glaciers and icefalls! Around another corner, and ZOWIE, there is Annapurna 2 towering to the West. After the steep climb up to Timang, we traversed and enjoyed the rolling trail, met a few cute chickens at our luscious lunch spot, and continued up to Chame. This is the district headquarters, but more importantly, it is also the home of a nice hot spring, right beside the raging Marsyangdi River. A nice soak at the end of the day? ahhhhh..... and the next morning, at sunrise, Eliza rolls over in bed and says, "hey Dad, is that an avalanche?"</div><div><br /></div><div> Sure enough.... morning avalanches on Annapurna 2. </div><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Trg4sB9abHg/TNRPgbWn8sI/AAAAAAAABA0/uEk4etzh0GI/s200/IMG_3471.JPG" style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5536137260462240450" /><div> What a nice way to start the day!</div>Karen Amstutzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16663719102595916919noreply@blogger.com0