If anyone on Long Island has an 06 and wishes to have it coded in exchange for lunch, I'm in Stony Brook, send a PM. Can't do later years (some 07 may still work) because I have the cheap $30 cable

Currently working on a few projects

-Permanently disabling the steering wheel lock on 06, as it's done by dealer when they program a lock-less column into the car
-Fitting LED tails to a car with FRM1, possibly retrofitting FRM3
-Programming 335 cluster into a 328/330 (mpg->oil temp)
-Helping pseudo tackle paddle retrofit once i have the above sorted

Hey bud, did you post to the spreadsheet on how to code the cluster swap? I'd be personally interested in this for my 328.

I'll be getting my 335 cluster in on saturday, will be sure to update the coding thread (and pm spreadsheet manager) once I have it working in my car.

I believe 335s can have instant mpg coded to show in the cluster display, but can't have oil temp coded to display on 325/28/30. For those that aren't familiar, the 325/28/30 clusters have the right bottom needle display instant mpg, while on the 335/M3, this displays oil temp.

I did some successful remote coding from the US to central Europe - pretty easy to pull off actually.

But honestly, by the time you get the cable and software installed and working you might as well do it yourself. That's the hardest part and if you are inclined to get that working you can certainly follow rest of the steps to make some module changes.

Yeah, I'd rather stay away from remote coding. Though theoretically not too difficult, there's a pretty big problem if something goes wrong connection-wise, I'd rather not deal with the risk.

I don't think I'll have many people come by, there are probably 10 members on the forum within 1/2 hr. of me lol. If I lived in a city, I'd just ask for donations until I had enough for the $90 cable so I could code anything.

I'd much rather help members get their own coding setups established so they can do it themselves.

I bought this adapter and couldn't get the driver to work on Win 7, so I suggest you spend a bit more on an adapter with confirmed working win 7 drivers (if that's what u use).

TBH, just spend the extra $$ on the $85 cable. a) 80% of people on here use it, it works b) you can help others code locally if they have cars later than MY 06, most importantly c) save the frustration on making the serial->usb adapter driver working, it's also just one more thing to go wrong.