Regional Report: New Mexico

Contrary to popular belief, there’s more to New Mexico than alien sightings and nuclear weapons development in Los Alamos—we also have roadrunners (our state bird), scorpions, and great snowboarding. The impressive Rocky Mountains start in northern British Columbia and extend south into New Mexico. The southernmost stretch is called the Sangre de Cristo range. The combinations of southern latitudes and high altitudes result in sunny days and dry powder.

Words by Michael Johnstone

Photography by Chris Wellhausen

Where To Ride

New Mexico is the fifth largest state and basically requires a vehicle to visit the assortment of unique resorts. So let’s begin just south of the Colorado boarder and drive the Enchanted Circle, which surrounds the highest point in New Mexico—the 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak—and offers fantastic views and great snowboarding. Taos is a culturally vibrant town with rich diversity; and the town’s plaza is a good starting point for our roadtrip. Just north of town is Taos Ski Valley, which boasts some of the best snow and terrain in New Mexico, but since snowboarding is prohibited, we’ll quickly move on west on Highway 64 across Palo Flechado Pass to arrive at our first destination, Angel Fire.

Angel Fire Resort—Snowboarder’s Paradise
Clearly leading the state in its dedication to snowboarders, Angel Fire Resort has it all. Two high-speed quads offer quick access to both terrain parks: Liberation Park on the summit, and the beginner park, Lowrider. In addition to the state’s only halfpipe, Angel Fire Resort continues to host the bulk of New Mexico’s snowboarding competitions. It also boasts some steep and serene hiking-accessible terrain for the freerider in all of us.
At the end of the day, get your après shred on across from the base of the Chile Express chairlift at Sunset Grill … mmm margaritas.

Red River—Ride The Wild, Wild West
Arriving in historic Red River, you feel as if you’re stepping back in time to Billy The Kid’s Wild West. The chairlifts are older and slower, but the terrain and the relaxed pace of the town more than make up for it. Try to hit the Silver Chair for uncrowded steeps; and the terrain park under the Red Chair is a great place to start working on your freestyle moves. The excellent instructors and isolated teaching area also make this a safe and easy place to teach your friends to ride.
Hit up the Lift Haus at the end of the day and join the local entertainment of watching all levels of riders attempting to conquer The Face.

Ski Santa Fe—Sky High Riding
Just outside of New Mexico’s capital of Santa Fe, with a peak elevation of over 12,000 feet lies Ski Santa Fe. Get an early start on weekends because Santa Fe attracts a huge following on the notoriously slow route up to the mountain. The new Millennium Chair offers easy access to some the most diverse terrain in New Mexico—don’t miss the Big Rocks area. If you’re in the mood for backcountry, ask a local’s advice on current conditions at Big Tesuque Bowl—experts only, but it’s worth it.

Sandia Peak Ski and Tramway—Cruise The Duke
Just an hour south of Santa Fe is New Mexico’s largest city, Albuquerque, which has the states only international airport. Sandia Peak is one of the closest resorts to this major urban area and a great lift ticket value. Although Sandia Peak’s runs cater mostly to beginners and intermediates, the long cruisers are surprisingly fun. The tram ride (the world’s longest tramway) is awesome and should not to be missed. If you’re a skater, be sure to check out Albuquerque’s legendary drainage ditches, technically called arroyos. Skating these is probably illegal, definitely dangerous, and unquestionably fun.

Ski Apache—Snowboard With The Gods
Load up the cooler, fill up the tank, and recharge the iPod, ’cause we’re going to the southernmost place to ride in the U.S.—Ski Apache. Ski Apache has the most snowboarding terrain in New Mexico. It’s owned by the Mescalaro Apaches and you’ll notice their colorful artistic influence everywhere. Located in the shadow of majestic Sierra Blanca Peak, the vistas here put the pan in panoramic. When you tire of busting out tricks on the boxes and rails at the Boneyard Terrain Park, head to Apache Bowl and ride The Fingers. Hey, don’t forget there’s also a gondola and gambling.

Distance from Albuquerque: 190 miles
Distance from San Antonio, Texas: 160 miles
Distance from Mexico: 120 miles
Cost: $51–54
Best for: Bowls and glades
Web site: skiapache.com

Free Taos!
As you enter New Mexico, you’ll start to see “FREE TAOS!” bumper stickers. The local snowboard shop in Angel Fire, Experience Snowboards, is continually trying to get the word out that Taos Ski Valley is still stuck in the past by prohibiting snowboarding. Experience Snowboards owner George Medina states, “I grew up learning to ski in Taos as a kid. And now that I snowboard, I can’t ride there. It’s ridiculous.” Support snowboarding and sport your sticker.

Around Town

New Mexico’s snowboard scene is spread out like a Kansas yard sale, so it all depends on where you’re at, but here are some pointers: Try to learn a little Spanish for streets, food, folks, etc. “Ll” is the sound of the “y” in yellow—think tortilla and quesadilla. Second, “j” is more like the “w” in water—think Juan. And finally, following Spanish tradition, nearly every town has a plaza, which is the center where everything goes down, and it’s always worth a visit.

Eats

Red Or Green?
New Mexico may be the only state with an official question, “Red or Green?” When you order a nice smothered burrito or other regional delicacy, you need to decide what kind of chile sauce you want. Both are made from the same kind of green chiles, but the green sauce comes from fresh chiles, while the red is made from dried chiles. It’s a personal preference. If you can’t make up your mind, ask for “Christmas,” and get a serving of both.

Yu Garden
After riding at Angel Fire, just walk downhill for fresh and authentic Chinese food—and their lunches are the best bargain in town.
52 North Angel Fire Road, Angel Fire.
(505) 377-0695.

Shotgun Willies
Red River’s traditional breakfast joint is fast, filling, and cheap—and even better right on the way to the ski area.
403 West Main, Red River.
(505) 754-6505

Timbers Steakhouse
Dinner here is a refreshing fusion of good pub grub and upscale dinning—all the entrées are good, but be sure to try the mouthwatering salads and waffle fries.
402 West Main, Red River.
(505) 754-6242

Tomasita’s
Santa Fe is a haven for eaters with tons of great options. This busy place is a local’s tradition and a great bargain specializing in New Mexican cuisine. Try the chile rellenos or stuffed sopapillas!
500 South Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe.
(505) 983-5721

Sadie’s Cocinita
In Albuquerque, Sadie’s has been treating everyone right for years with their big portions, and yes … it is spicy! Expand your food horizons and order the carne adovada or guacamole salad. Otherwise check out the Nob Hill area for a variety of mid-priced options.
6230 4th Street Northwest, Albuquerque.
(505) 345-5339

Lincoln Country Grill
In Ruidoso, near Ski Apache, you can get your fill of chicken, fried steak, and other American and New Mexican classics.
2717 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso.
(505) 257-7669

The Pink Adobe Featuring The Dragon Room Lounge
This may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it is pure quirky Santa Fe and definitely worth a visit. You can eat at the Pink Adobe and the Dragon Room has … well, trees and monkeys and art and dragons!
406 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe.
(505) 983-7712

Cowgirl Hall Of Fame
The Santa Fe scene changes like New Mexico’s weather, but the Cowgirl endures. It’s got a sassy cowgirl theme, heaps of western music, and great barbecue to boot.
319 South Guadalupe Street, Red River.
(505) 982-2565

Burt’s Tiki Lounge
Albuquerque nightlife is enigmatic, but start with Burt’s. This funky hangout is rife with cheap beer, surfboards, and even some tikis. Additionally, see if local punk favorite The Gracchi are playing—loud and southwest punk proud.
313 Gold Avenue SW, Albuquerque.
(505) 765-1534

Quarters Nightclub and Grill
Ruidoso offers plenty of casino-style entertainmen—be sure to check out the local’s hangout, famous for blues and barbecue on Sundays.
2535 Sudderth Drive, Ruidoso.
(505) 257-9535

The Lodge at Red River
Red River is an awesome place by to roam around on foot, and there are tons of places to stay. The Lodge is very central and a bargain, but may get a bit noisy on the weekends.
400 East Main, Red River. 1-800-91-LODGE

Old Santa Fe Inn
Santa Fe has some incredible (but pricey) options near the plaza; the Old Santa Fe Inn is the most reasonable. Try the chains on Cerrillos Road for better value.
320 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe. 1-888-653-7346

Econo Lodge Old Town
Albuquerque’s historic downtown area is called Old Town and has some high-dollar joints. The best value is the Econo Lodge. The biggest selection of budget options though is near “The Big I,” the intersection of I-25 and I-40.
2321 Central Avenue NW, Albuquerque. (505) 243-8475

Inn Of The Mountain Gods
Ruidoso has the standard selection of value chains off I-70, or try Sudderth Drive. Even if you can’t afford to stay here, make the effort to go to see this impressive casino and hotel, just a few miles outside of town.
287 Carrizo Canyon Road, Mescalero. 1-800-545-9010

Shops

Experience Snowboards
The only snowboard shop in the Enchanted Circle is in Angel Fire. Stop by and ask about its legendary “Beeribrary,” and try to scam some Free Taos stickers.
6 North Angel Fire Road, Angel Fire. (505) 377-8012
Experience Snowboards in Angel Fire.

Beyond Waves
In Santa Fe, the guys will always treat you right, and may even divulge the secrets of Tesuque backcountry.
1428 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe. (505) 988-2240

Events

Angel Fire Resort hosts the snowboarding events in New Mexico. If you feel “the Force,” grab your lightsaber and go for it boardercross-style at the Jedi Challenge on March 1, 2008. For something truly mind-blowing in its intensity and absurdity, go to Red River for Mardi Gras in the Mountains, this January 30–February 4, 2008. Cajuns, snowboarders, madmen, pirates, and various night creatures congregate to celebrate crawfish, hedonism, parades, and hopefully fresh powder (… oh yeah, and the end of Lent) with fire, costumes, and Krewe prankery.