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Specs

Benefits

Premier offers a sharpening service for all combs, cutters & blades. Use item #869000 for resharpening cutters.

How to Use

See instructions above.

Customization

We can imprint initials on cutters. Please tell us exactly what you would like imprinted on them. We charge for $1.00 each cutter imprinted. If you would like your cutter imprinted, you must choose item #868600 (enter this item # in our Catalog Quick Order).

Precautions

Storing the Clipper/Shearer, Blades, Combs & Cutters

Remove blades/combs/cutters from clipper or shearer.

Clean blades/combs/cutters immediately after use by using a small brush or blowing off any excess dirt or hair. Cover with oil to reduce risk of rust. High carbon steel clipper blades will rust overnight. Rust destroys both edge and polished surface of blades.

Store clipper/shearer and blades away from solvents, chemicals and moisture. Never leave them where they can be damaged by accidental impact. (We offer a storage box and wool felt for the blades and a case for the clippers.)

To reproduce the quality of the cutting edge on the clipper blades that came from the factory, a lapping machine must be used. Most other methods are, in our experience, inferior. In addition to producing a cutting edge that won’t last, some methods can permanently damage blades. The most common “culprit” is using large high speed grinding wheels that are used to sharpen cutters and combs.

Who uses lapping machines and who does not? Premier does and you can ship them to us. Other firms also use systems/machines that work well.

Warning: Clipper blades/cutters/combs that have been sharpened by inferior methods or inexperienced people may be damaged to such an extent that they can never be restored to a satisfactory cutting capability. The same is true of blades that have become too heavily pitted by rust.

Troubleshooting

Make sure the comb & cutter are on as described in the instructions.

Make sure the comb name can be read on outside when placed on head.

Make sure to have 1/8" space from end of comb bevel to tip of cutter.

Make sure the edge of the cutter does not go over the side of the comb.

Listed below are recommended optional components or related items. Your particular situation may require alternative recommendations. Please call and talk to our consultants if there are any questions at 800-282-6631.

Write a Review

This is the best brand of all we have tried. We shear around 16 southdown sheep, which is a difficult breed to shear because they have wool on their entire face, legs, everywhere. I think we do a good job, but we are very slow, averaging about 1-1.5 hours per sheep. The spitfire is the only one I will buy now. In fact, I would like to save my money and sell my Oster Showmaster so I can try Primier's machine.

Spitfire Shearing Cutter

★★★★★

June 29, 2014

John W
from ohio

The cutter comb combination is a perfect set for shearing alpacas

Spitfire Shearing Cutter

★★★★★

June 11, 2013

Christyl K
from NW Iowa

I had been using blades & cutters from Oster & if I was lucky I would maybe get one ewe sheared per set. With the Spitfire I was able to shear 8-10 head of ewes before I noticed it was starting to dull. Also this cutter was so much easier to get started into the wool. BONUS these are less expensive.

Spitfire Shearing Cutter

★★★★★

May 9, 2013

Brian M
from Iowa

These cutter blades work amazing! WHEN THEY ARE SHARP! I was a first time shearer. I have a small herd of angora goats. My philosophy was first come first sheared. It was a pregnant doe. Did it old school. Sat her down and went to town. Arm pits. Dangerous. Cut poor claire. Got anxious. Started being paranoid. Pulled on her fleece to see where i was going. BAD IDEA. Their skin is so light and stretchy it pulls right up and you cut it off. BAM! One inch gaping wound. Now i feel like I'm killing her. Finished up with just those two lessons and not another cut. But you know what, I wasn't lubricating the blade because I was too worrying too much about cutting my precious claire. Now the blade is getting hot, the goats begin crying out, I'm pulling the fleece to make sure I'm not cutting my little yearling whethers and you know what. I CUT THEM MORE! So here's the end of my review. LUBRICATE THE BLADE. HAVE A BUNCH OF BLADES. DON'T PULL ON THE FLEECE AS YOUR SHEAR. BILLY GOATS DON'T LIKE YOU CUTTIN AROUND THEIR COIN PURSE. CROTCHES OF ANY KIND ARE PROBLEMATIC. WHEN THE BLADE GETS HOT TRIM THEIR HOOVES AND VACCINATE OR HAVE A LEMONADE,TILL IT COOLS DOWN. THE JOB IS DIFFICULT DON'T GET FLUSTERED! SHEARING STAND OR STANCHION IS SOMEWHAT EASIER. SHARP BLADE. SHARP BLADE. SHARP BLADE. LUBRICATION. MORE SHARP BLADES. SEND THEM TO PREMIER WHEN THEY NEED SHARPENING. LOVE YOUR ANIMALS. LUBRICATION.

Spitfire Shearing Cutter

★★★★★

October 6, 2012

Leslie R
from Tennessee

Excellent for sheering sheep. I was able to sheer 25 head, some dirty, without it becoming dull. Very sharp cutter!

About Conductivity

Conductivity measures the amount of electrical current a material can carry. The opposite measure is known as resistance.

Many of Premier’s nets feature a green and white superconductor that has both stainless steel and tinned copper filaments for optimal conductivity. These “premium” nets are 10 times more conductive (38 ohms per 1000') than our “basic” nets. This enables the electric pulse to travel much farther and be less affected by weed contact.

We do not recommended the basic nets listed below for fences exceeding 500 ft in length:

Customers who are unhappy with netting are often those who’ve chosen one of these or their farmstore equivalents. Why do we offer them? Because they are similar in design and conductivity (380 ohms) to nets from our competitors—and comparisons make decisions easier.

Types of Line Posts

Line posts are built into the net. Three options are available.*

Single Spike (SS)The best choice, unless your soils are always soft or very hard.

Double Spike (DS)Posts allow you to push in the spikes with your foot. When soil is hard or rocky, double spikes are more difficult to install and remove.

Drivable Posts (DP)Allows use of a mallet or dead blow hammer for installing posts in dry, hard or rocky soil. Features a “spike stop” for extra support and internal fiberglass ribs for added strength.

Tip: To insert a line post into frozen or hard soil, use a power tool to drill pilot holes.

* Not all fences have all line post options.

About Positive/Negative (Pos/Neg) Nets

Is your area dry?

Conventional electrified fence systems rely on soil moisture to be effective. However, not all areas have the required moisture.

To overcome this, Pos/Neg nets* are wired to allow the use of every other horizontal strand as an extension of the ground terminal. Because half the strands are connected to the ground terminal or ground rod, reliance on soil moisture is reduced. A PowerLink must be purchased separately to make the secondary ground connection.

How it works…

In order to receive a shock, the animal must touch both a positive (hot) and negative (grounded) strand at the same time. This will deliver more pain to the animal than an all hot net (Pos/Pos) because moisture in the soil is not required to complete the circuit.

Pos/Neg fences can be converted to Pos/Pos in moist conditions. Remember, all fences must be kept free of vegetation.

* Not all fences have Pos/Neg options.

Line Post Spacing

“Plus” nets—6'8" spacings between line posts

Standard nets—10' or 12' spacings between line posts

Essential Energizer Advice

Buy a larger energizer than necessary. When the fence pleases, most folks will buy more fence—and need additional output.