1970s favourite fondue is often ridiculed, but melted cheese laced with white
wine and besieged by cubes of bread is nothing to joke about

You don’t need to live in the Alps – or, indeed, the 1970s – to enjoy the fun of a fondue. “It’s a playful way to entertain,” says Australian foodie Viviane Perényi of this classic, and often unfairly ridiculed, winter dish. “If someone drops their bread in the cheese,” she gleefully points out, “they get a forfeit.”

Eaten with long-handled forks dipped and twirled in a communal pot, fondue is about as sociable as a meal gets without becoming a stand-up buffet. Needless to say, it’s also deeply moreish, especially when topped, tailed and accessorised with lighter, sweeter, crunchier and tarter items that balance out all that smooth, unctuous cheese.

(Viviane Perényi)

Can’t locate a fondue set, even in a charity shop? Don’t worry. Any large, heavy-bottomed pot/pan will do the job, if you have the means to keep it toasty – a single-burner camping stove is ideal, or simply place the pot over, or in, some piping hot water. And don’t forget those forfeits…

Using the cut side of the garlic clove, rub the bottom and side of the fondue pot. Pour the wine into the pot and warm over a medium heat until it starts to simmer.

(Viviane Perényi)

Turn down the heat and add the cheese step by step, stirring constantly (drawing a figure-of eight pattern). When all the cheese has melted and the texture is smooth, mix the cornflour to a paste with a little water and then add to the pot. Stir well. Remove from the heat and place the fondue pot on top of the burner on the table.

Serve with cubes of good quality white bread.

Tips

Wiping the inside of your pot with a cut garlic means you’ll get a subtle hint of it, rather than a full-on kick. Chuck the garlic afterwards.