Commander's Palace: Restaurant of the year for 2018

The kitchen staff at Commander's Palace with executive chef Tory McPhail in the center. (All photo by David Grunfeld, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Because Commander’s Palace is the single institution most responsible for turning New Orleans into a globally recognized hothouse of culinary excellence. Because in the year 2018 the family-run restaurant lost its matriarch, Ella Brennan. Because Miss Ella made creating and maintaining the aforementioned reputation her business for over 60 years.

Because just think what New Orleans would be like if it didn’t have its restaurants to be proud of. Because in the year 2018 Commander’s also celebrated its 125th anniversary. Because Commander’s chefs haven’t stopped trying to impress diners since Miss Ella and her brother Dick installed Paul Prudhomme as the restaurant’s chef in 1975. Because those efforts resulted in the creation of haute Creole cuisine. Because haute Creole was open to influences from outside New Orleans. Because that in itself was a powerful statement to make in a provincial Southern city.

Because Commander’s also made it okay for customers at fancy restaurants to have a good time. Because if you mark a special occasion at Commander’s, you get balloons. Because the famous chefs who’ve run the Commander’s kitchen (Prudhomme, Emeril Lagasse, Jamie Shannon, Tory McPhail) all ultimately reported to women. Because Miss Ella encouraged all of those chefs to read. Because McPhail and current owners Ti Martin and Lally Brennan made the year 2018 a very good year to eat at Commander’s.

Because in this three-centuries-old city, the long game is the game that matters.