Tahiti’s Voices of Angels

Being up at the crack of dawn is totally out of character for me. I’ve seen very few sunrises in my lifetime and can probably count them on one hand. It was a new experience for me to witness the beginning of a new day and watch the sunrise over Papeete’s harbor.

I was on my way to Le Marché, (Tahiti’s bustling 2-story market) located in the heart of Papeete, the capital where you can buy just about anything including coconut milk, taro, Tahitian Cultured Pearls, ukuleles, hand painted pareos, flower leis, baguettes, monoi oil, vanilla and much more. Within minutes of leaving Hotel Tahiti Nui, I discovered that all of Tahiti was shut down in observance of Ascension and the only thing open was church – so, off I went to church for some authentic cultural immersion.
By 7:30 a.m. the “Mamas,” as they are lovingly called gathered an hour before church services at Protestant Paofai Church. Sitting in small groups on wooden pews, they quietly rehearsed harmonic hymns while waiting inside the majestic church. It wasn’t long before the loud church bells rang calling worshipers to service and stereo sounds from the organ began to fill the cavernous space. The choir started singing in heavenly harmony which quickly grew into a major crescendo. I could feel the intensity and knew this came from the heart. Goose bumps began forming on my arms and the hair on the back of my neck stood up and tingled. I was captivated and was swept up into the rhythmic singing and chanting as the entire congregation sang deeply from their soul. Pouring out their melodic hearts, the voices of angels reverberated throughout the church drifting out into the streets where singing could be heard several blocks away. Lost in the hypnotic harmony, I was caught up in the rhythm and couldn’t help swaying with the magnificent music. I was sorry I didn’t have a recorder with me to capture this magical moment. Although the services and hymns were in Polynesian, the message was clear – it was all about praising God on this holy day.

A SEA OF WHITE

A sea of white.

Dressed in crisp white eyelet, lace, traditional “Mama Ru’au” dresses with ruffled yokes and hems. These high collared, long-sleeve moo-moo-like dresses are what the early missionaries forced native Polynesians to wear to cover their half-naked brown bodies.

After their arrival of the missionaries on March 5th 1797, the cultural landscape of Polynesia changed forever, the missionaries made an everlasting impact. The Polynesians were considered savages by the missionaries who set about to change their “heathen ways.” The missionaries imposed their beliefs, lifestyle, language and customs on the Polynesians – since they considered the Polynesian’s traditions and culture vulgar and barbaric behavior. The missionaries forbade the Polynesians from engaging in tribal wars, worshipping spirits and idols, cannibalism, suggestive dances and traditional tattoos. As a result of the missionaries’ presence, pressure and influence, the Polynesians became devout Protestants, Catholics and Mormons, with Protestants being in the majority. The missionaries were enormously successful in their conversion efforts and to this day, life in French Polynesia revolves around the church.

HATS OFF TO YOU

A lovely Mama wearing her elaborate hat and Tahitian black pearls.

Many of the Mamas topped off their heavenly white ensembles with over-the-top hats featuring exaggerated brims. These dramatic showpieces made of hand-woven pandanus leaves were decorated with elaborate embellishments such as seashells, ribbons, feathers, tapa cloth and coconut bark flowers. You could say the Mama’s hats had just about everything on them except the kitchen sink. The motto here was, “Excess is best!”

Most of the Mamas pulled their long dark hair back into elegant chignons and tucked fragrant Te Tiarre blossoms behind an ear – right side if you’re available and left side if you’re taken – it’s a Polynesian tradition.

Sitting upstairs in the church’s spacious balcony, I had a bird’s eye and panoramic view of the church – I could appreciate the 30 foot high ceilings, finely carved wooden pulpit, terra cotta and ivory checkerboard floor, elegant brass chandeliers and stained glass window depicting an outrigger canoe and coconut palm trees.

Elegant interior of Protestant Paofai Church

As I looked down from the balcony and choir loft, all I could see was a sea of white. Mamas wildly waving their hand-woven pandanus fans to the pulsating rhythm of hymns attempting to keep cool. The men looked stiff and horribly uncomfortable dressed in dark navy suits, crisp white shirts, and ties – some men wore closed-toe shoes while others flip flops. Even though the large windows were open and there was a gentle breeze, I felt like I was in a tropical rain forest and could feel sweat dripping down my spine, even into my eyes and collecting above my upper lip – and it was only 8:30 in the morning. It was sweltering and steamy; it didn’t matter that I was wearing a tank top. But, somehow, I didn’t mind – the voices of angels elevated me to a heavenly level.