When Rhett told Scarlett he was going back to Charleston, seeking “something left in life of charm and grace,” was he planning on staying at the Mills House Hotel? It was the place to be seen in the 1860s, and, thanks to a picture-perfect restoration, it has assumed that mantle once again. After dropping off a pile of vintage Vuitton trunks full of filmy floral tea dresses, leghorn hats, and parasols, dash to the Charleston Museumto see “Preciousness Preserved,” a survey of centuries of jewelry. Then visit the Gibbes Museum of Art to view “Charleston Renaissance.” Next, take in a show at the Spoleto Festival, where the avant-garde theatrical productions might startle even that old reprobate Rhett.Unlike so many American towns, Charleston is made for walking—which is a good thing, considering that dinner includes she-crab soup with a shot of sherry followed by the legendary fried chicken at the roadside See Wee Restaurant (843.928.3609), located in a former grocery store 20 miles out of town on U.S. 17. Tomorrow, tour the Magnolia Plantation and its incredible gardens; marvel at mansions so splendid, surrounded by landscaping so verdant, it’s difficult to remember they’re in the center of town. For supper, float into S.N.O.B.—by no means stuck-up, it stands for Slightly North of Broad—and order the fried shad roe. Then it’s back to the Mills House for, what else? A nightcap of Southern Comfort.[#image: /photos/5891f5a623f9887c0e0e4cde]||||||