A Note from Sergio
Last spring I joined Friulian vintner Damijan Podversic at
La Subida restaurant in Cormons, a tiny town on the border
of Slovenia and Friuli. As we began to eat our braised veal
shank (a dish so famously perfect that people from around
the world flock to La Subida just to taste it), Podversic
spotted Josko Gravner sitting across the dining room with
his family. His eyes lit up.

“Josko’s here, my teacher,” he said.
“We must pay our respects.” I agreed—we
were in the presence of a genius.

Josko Gravner is Friuli’s greatest and most influential
winemaker. Since 1975, he has produced the finest whites
in all of Italy. His early protégés—students
of what is now known as the School of Gravner—include
Edi Kante, brothers Giorgio and Nicolò Bensa of La
Castellada, Stanko Radikon, and Podversic. Gravner is known
for his wisdom and foresight, and for his fearlessly innovative
approach to his craft. In the 1970s, he perfected stainless
steel technology of fermentation and temperature control.
Soon after, just as others began to catch onto his techniques,
he abandoned them and went on to master barrique fermentation
and aging. The wine industry and enthusiasts around the
world (French and American included) applauded, crowning
him the "King of Italian Whites." But as his students
attempted to copy him, he had a new idea.

In the 1990s, Gravner’s friend Udo Fiersch visited
Caucasia (in the former USSR) and tried wines fermented
in clay amphorae in the ancient style that is still alive
in Georgian winemaking. Fiersch shipped an amphora back
to an intrigued Gravner. Gravner, who had long studied the
effects of slow maceration periods, filled it with wine
and buried it underground for fermentation.

At a wine dinner in 1998, Gravner revealed the discovery
that the amphora had helped him make. He announced to a
room full of students, clients, and journalists that all
the newest technology, chemicals, and techniques, it turned
out, did many things for wine, but they didn’t make
it any better.

“Wine and food have to be natural products,”
he said. “In flying a plane, one needs technology
but it’s absurd to think that man can ever improve
what is natural.”

Then, with a tinge of remorse in his voice he added, “Wine
and food we put in our stomachs. How could I continue doing
my work if I have knowledge that what I make was slowly
poisoning my daughters?”

The poisons of which Gravner spoke are acids, sugars, yeasts,
tannins, wood flavoring, wood chips, glycerin, Arabic gum,
polyphenols, extracts, and color stabilizers—the laboratory-made
products that routinely show up in almost all wines made
today, both in and outside of Italy (the only additive Gravner
deems acceptable is a small quantity of sulfur because it
is a natural product).

Immediately after his radical announcement, most of his
followers—with the exception of Podversic—dropped
away, convinced that he had gone too far. Lawmakers tried
to keep his wines from the market, stating that the 1999
wasn’t an acceptable wine for its appellation. Suppliers
stopped buying from him. And the press, scared of losing
their authority, skewered him.

Still today, despite the controversy, Gravner remains convinced
that his ancient methods result in the best wines. He admits
that his wines, which are made in amphorae with a seven-month
maceration, are not for everyone.

“The amphora amplifies everything,” he says.
“The color, which is very dark, is the most obvious,
but there’s much more which cannot be explained.”
Though much of the greatness and weirdness may be inexplicable,
it’s clear that Gravner’s wines are now unmasked,
untainted, and beautiful. When asked to describe the difference
between his Anfora 2001 (anfora is Italian for amphora and
is now in the name of the wines for which it is used) and
the wines he made previously, he says, “I don’t
have the words to describe it. It’s like being asked
to describe someone’s soul. The amphora wines have
much more spirit.”

This week, I’m proud to offer this maverick’s
most spirited wines as well as wines that span his career.
The older wines are superb and fresh—he is proudly
releasing them now even though he has since turned to new
techniques, and their quality is easily recognizable. If
you aren’t expecting California Chardonnay, though,
you’ll see that the newer wines are Gravner’s
best work. I’m also re-releasing a few cases of the
magical wines of Fiorano, as it seems only right to include
these all-natural rule breakers.

Gravner's 2000s & New Anfora
So what does this all mean: clay amphorae, “pure winemaking,”
ancient methods? It is part process and part philosophy that
begins with choice grapes from 18 hectares of vineyards in
Gorizia (Oslavia) and results in high quality, thinking whites
that drink more like reds. Here, at an altitude of 600 meters,
Josko Gravner has spent decades learning the behavior of each
vine and still provides individual attention to every one
of them. Once optimal yields are obtained, the selected grapes
are destemmed and transferred to large clay amphorae (refer
to image #1) that are buried underground (refer to image #2).
With the grapes in place, fermentation is ignited through
purely wild yeasts and without the aid of temperature-controlled
equipment. The grapes are stirred five to six times each day,
with no use of roto-fermenters or pumps, and undergo natural
malolactic fermentation. Only at this point does Josko interrupt
the cycle of grapes turning to vinegar (their natural destiny)
by adding a ½ gram of sulfur per hectoliter—a
practice that dates back to pre-Roman times. The maceration
period continues for seven months with the amphorae taking
in the characteristics of their tellurian surroundings and
amplifying the natural characteristics of their contents.
When the alignment of the planets and moon cause atmospheric
pressure to push the pomace to the bottom of the amphorae,
the must is taken out of them by bucket and transferred to
large botti. Here it rests for another three years before
being transferred to bottle for further aging. No filtering
takes place since Josko believes it “steals the soul
of the wine....”

Gravner Breg
A blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Riesling
Italico grapes. While the 2001 Breg Anfora utilizes the
technique detailed above, the 2000 release saw the final
use of open vat fermentation in wood. In fact, Josko recently
sold off these casks to Beppe
Rinaldi, one of Barolo’s great traditionalists.
The 2000 grapes were manually pressed and fermented separately
on their skins in these large, open oak barrels for an extended
maceration period. The pomace is then removed and juice
is placed in large oak casks for a maturation period of
three years. Josko recommends drinking this white wine at
room temperature to capture its full expression. The cider
color picks up a pinkish hue, not from the wood or the amphorae,
but from the Pinot Grigio. Each grape imparts a signature
characteristic that gives this wine a rare spectrum of flavors
and uncommon depth.

Gravner Ribolla Gialla
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's
oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century, it was
the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the
name Rabiola del Collio. While its popularity has faded,
Josko Gravner has spearheaded a movement to resurrect this
forgotten grape to its former glory. It has taken two decades
for Josko to understand the handling of this stubborn varietal,
and it is his proudest achievement. In fact, this wine and
the black Pignolo grape represent the future of Gravner
since he plans to work exclusively with these two varietals
after the 2010 vintage. Like the Breg, the 2000 Ribolla
underwent open vat fermentation and the 2001 represents
the debut release of Ribolla Anfora. The grapes were taken
from vines planted as far back as 1915, providing the wines
with a distinct personality highlighted by mineral notes
that end with a butterscotch finish.

Rare Vintage Gravner
Vintage Gravner. This is an extremely rare offer. Due to the
limited availability, the wines are available in case and
six-pack samplers only. Unlike his recent wines (1997 –
2001), these are not about long maceration, botti aging, or
amphorae. They are young, bright, and vibrant, defying the
laws of winemaking with their ability to age.

All of these wines come from a period when Josko had abandoned
his father’s old botti and combined stainless steel
fermentation with barrique aging. Three of these four wines
are pure varietal bottlings: Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc,
and Chardonnay, which represent the last varietal bottlings
from these grapes. While Chardonnay has already proven its
ability to age in other regions, even the experienced wine
drinker may balk at a Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc that
dates back more than 15 years. However, Gravner has dispelled
this belief. In fact, he has Riservas from this period that
he does not plan to release for years to come—a bold
move that is justified by the excellent quality the wines
show today. The Riservas were made only in select vintages
from select plots of old vines.

The fourth wine offered is Gravner’s most singular
and best known, a blend which was originally conceived in
1982 as Vinograd Breg for the site where the fruit is grown.
For two years, 1990 and 1991, the wine became known as Bianco
Gravner before settling as ‘Breg.’

Revisiting Fiorano's Ageworthy Whites
“The greatness of Fiorano is a secret shared by a few,”
wrote Burton Anderson. The precious gems of this estate were
the dedication and passion of the reclusive and eccentric
Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, Principe di Venosa. Ludovisi
passed his private cellar to Luigi Veronelli to place the
bottles with the appropriate individuals who could keep his
story alive. His wish continues today, as the vintage wines
were left to IWM's Sergio Esposito by the late Veronelli along
with the challenge of fulfilling his promise to the prince.
With this in mind, these wines are available only in an extremely
allocated assorted case, in an effort to find serious owners.
The two whites being offered, Bianco (made from Malvasia di
Candia) and Semillon, range from the 1986 to the 1994 vintage
and are only beginning to show their great destiny. We implore
the recipients of these wines to cellar a portion of their
allotment up to 20 years so they may show their full grace
and the story
of the prince will continue.

Like the recent bottlings from Gravner, these wines are
not for everyone—they are a true cult wine for the
connoisseur to experience. Speak with our Portfolio Managers
to get a better understanding of what you can expect from
this investment.

Friuli's Signature Whites
World class whites begin with Gravner, but Italy offers many
more. Here in the northeast corridor of Italy, the fusion
of German, Slavic, and Italian cultures has influenced the
creation of Italy's best white wines. We are not talking about
the simple Pinot Grigios that have recently overrun American
wine shops or the carelessly oxidized wines of the old world,
but rather about the structured, complex bottlings that rival
many of the classic German and French whites. In addition
to the importance of the native Ribolla Gialla and Tocai,
Friuli's reputation lies in the production of international
varietals—French grapes introduced more than two centuries
ago by Napoleon's army (most notably Sauvignon Blanc)—and
the blended wines known as Friuli's Super Whites.

Tocai Friulano
Two of Friuli's most notable native white grapes are Tocai
Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Tocai, the more popular of
the two, is also grown in various regions outside of Friuli,
but the ancient indigenous varietal is at its best in the
Collio. ("Friulano" was added to the name Tocai
to avoid confusion with Hungary's famous dessert wine; eventually
the wine may simply be labeled "Friulano" based
on arrangements set by the EU.) This masculine white grape
offers a range of characteristics brought out by the varying
microclimates and producer styles, which range from crisp
to a creamy texture and from smoky to peppery. For a classic
representation of Tocai character, Ronco delle Betulle delivers
a lovely and faithful bottling with excellent minerality.
The introductory bottlings from Scarbolo and Bastianich
offer a simple display of Tocai's peach and pear notes along
with its signature mineral finish, while a more lush personality
comes out in Movia's clean Tokai Gredic. The late-harvest
grapes for Bastianich's Tocai Plus spend time in the estate's
unique solera-style barrique aging system, creating a particularly
opulent wine.

Ribolla Gialla
Ribolla Gialla enjoys a long history as one of Friuli's
oldest indigenous vines. Back in the 12th century, it was
the drink of choice in the Republic of Venice under the
name Rabiola del Collio. Today, the worldwide popularity
of Pinot Grigio and local fanfare for Tocai have overshadowed
this aromatic varietal. However, in the hands of many of
Friuli's most iconoclastic producers the wine recaptures
its own well-deserved glory. In addition to the Ribollas
produced by Radikon, Miani, and Gravner, the three examples
below are the best Ribollas from Friuli, and each offers
something different. Like all of La Castellada's wines,
their Ribolla is incredibly concentrated, with a brilliantly
rich golden color complemented by flavors of minerality,
butterscotch, and toasted oak. On the other hand, Damijan's
take on the grape reflects inspiration from his mentor Josko
Gravner with a truly natural approach to winemaking. The
wine displays an almost cider-like hue and provides notes
of honey, nuts, and sweet spices with bitter undertones.
A third interpretation comes in Movia's Ribolla, which offers
weighty fruit and minerality.

Friuli's Blends and Super Whites
In the sixties, avant-garde producers like Schiopetto and
Felluga created a crisp, clean style with the introduction
of stainless steel tanks and the elimination of unwanted
oxidation in the winemaking process. This modern style eventually
gave birth to the Super White movement with the release
of Silvio Jermann's blended Vintage Tunina. Complex blends
from producers like Vie di Romans, La Castellada, Lis Neris,
Villa Russiz, and Bastianich continue to capture international
attention with their exotically aromatic or full-bodied
charm. The legacy behind many of Friuli's blends and winemaking
techniques continues to draw attention with the more natural
and "ancient" approach taken by Gravner, Damijan,
and Movia. All are wines to be experienced!

Brunello 2001 Starter Kit
Given the enthusiastic response to last week's Brunello 2001
offer, we are now offering a six-pack sampler that will help
you understand the varied styles of Brunello di Montalcino.
We have divided Montalcino into three territories—central,
north, and south—that provide a general guide to Brunello
styles as impacted by terroir. The differences in altitude
and exposition throughout the zone are a major factor in wine
style since they play a substantial role in the vegetal cycle
of the vines. The traditional heartland of Montalcino (in
the center of the DOCG) includes the most elevated zones,
where the altitudes provide the perfect habitat for more perfumed
and elegant wines of structure and longevity. The historic
Biondi-Santi and Fuligni estates are quintessential examples
of this lean style of Brunello.

North of the Montalcino subzone the high elevation begins
to taper and form the northern territory, which has a diminished
share in the warm, dry Mediterranean climate and high altitude
of their neighbors to the south: the slight differences
in temperature, humidity, and elevation breed wines of both
ripeness and structure. The wines of Baricci and Capanna
demonstrate this Brunello style with their excellent elegance
and finesse.

The warmer climate of the southern territory shows through
in all the wines from this area. The vineyards are exposed
to a more unrestricted Mediterranean climate than the rest
of Montalcino, with sandier soils, less wind, and lower
altitude, which contributes to a denser, less acidic, fruitier
side of Brunello. Some estates, like Camigliano and Il Poggione,
have elevated vineyards with southern and western exposures
that create potent wines with a spectacular combination
of structure and ripeness.

To lead you in your tasting exploration, our map of Montalcino
is also included with these six wines.