Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

They were marked "SOLD OUT" last night, but it seems that was just how OpenSky kept them on hold until they opened up the sales. They were on sale this morning. I'm down for a bottle.

I'm quoting Chander here for easy reference:

To wear a scent is to take a syringe, suck a liquid neural impression from a bottle up into the cylinder, insert the needle into a vein and— stand back—jam down the plunger. Intravenous drug effects are almost instant and systemic—the entire body reacts with the drug at full power. Scents are the same, just without the needles, but you don’t need needles; works of olfactory art are shot via the air via the sense of smell directly into the most primitive parts of our brains. If the work of art is great—John Tavener's "Funeral Canticle," poured into the sense of hearing, for instance—you are transfigured.

What a work of scent art can do, and what S01E03 does, that a drug cannot it to transfer its effects to those around you. It’s as if you could shoot up and share the high.

This is, of course, the more or less unspoken premise of 90% of the commercial scents out there. Like recreational drugs, the premise is pleasure, all of this conveyed visually. Christy Turlington is in the perfume’s ad as a promise that she (you, in advertising’s ubiquitous Freudian transference) will be penetrated by the person with whom she shares it.

Like all great works of olfactory art, S01E03, which is not a commercial scent, confirms scent’s power when shared. It confirms it several ways.

E03 demonstrates, for example, that what can roughly be termed volume is a hugely important design piece to all olfactory works. I don’t mean volume merely in the crude, obvious sense of turning the dial up to 10, or using blinding neon acrylics, or packing a scent with a molecule called Karenal, whose decibel level can make your metaphorical ears bleed. Volume is also tonality and texture—smooth vs. rough, clear vs. opaque, an upper (to return to the drug metaphor) vs. an anxiolytic. E03 is pure tone, like a steel tuning fork held up in the air humming a perfect A to the cochlea. Smooth. Clear. But the odd, beautiful thing is that E03 is simultaneously an upper— it makes you alert like a clarion call — and an anxiolytic— calming, tranquilizing, two virtually weightless fingertips brushing your temples.

Think about the deep womb-like enveloping warmth of Opium at high volume (volume in this case meaning simply amount). E03’s aesthetic is the direct opposite. This scent’s surface has the odd minimalist plush of very shallow satin and the unforgiving touch of glass— a combination of soft and, not *hard, exactly, more crisp. E03’s artists— they are two— are among the most talented and least timid I know. Their patron awarded them this commission, and with it they’ve created a scent that transfigures like Tavener’s canticle: limpid, subtle beauty, a still, small voice, a work that is not to be shared in order to arouse or impress but rather to align, to bring you and the person you share it with into a single shared vibration, like the mesmerizing pure tone of a steel tuning fork.

I'm pretty psyched about this one. I think the theme of the exercise is gradually shifting back to where he wants it - a discussion of the art aspects. He's given us a lot of red meat here. I think it will be far more interesting to see if his tuning fork analogy rings true, than to figure out what the heck this is.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

I ordered this morning so I will be back once my bottle has arrived.

I do have a strong idea what this might be based on Chandler's verbal packaging.

There is one fragrance I own which I would describe as a tuning fork and most of Chandler's description fits. I've always felt it was like wearing the clink of fine crystal so tuning fork works as well.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man

I ordered this morning so I will be back once my bottle has arrived.

I do have a strong idea what this might be based on Chandler's verbal packaging.

There is one fragrance I own which I would describe as a tuning fork and most of Chandler's description fits. I've always felt it was like wearing the clink of fine crystal so tuning fork works as well.

Very cool! I have a couple of fragrances which induce this feeling in me, but they are probably not the one in question, since they are "nominally" attributed to a single nose.

I'm seriously disadvantaged on this one, as far as identification goes, being bit of a mainstream maniac. But I think it's probably time for me to give the guessing game a rest and concentrate on the art.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by donna255

Christy did a lot of Calvin Klein ads. Just saying.

I think the Christy Turlington thing was a badly executed part of the description of 03, because you kind of have to read it a couple of times to realize he's trying to set a scene; he's not actually saying she was in the ads for 03. A few people on various boards have made this mistake.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Hopefully my bottle will actually ship soon so I can take part this round.

Should I read Burr's description? Im inclined to skip all descriptions and discussions until Ive had it for about 1 week.

It's an interesting and worthwhile possibility. Why don't you try it? I think 1 week is about right. You'll still have 2-3 weeks after that to use full information, but perhaps that one week, free of any preconceptions, will give you some added insight.

I think the Christy Turlington thing was a badly executed part of the description of 03, because you kind of have to read it a couple of times to realize he's trying to set a scene; he's not actually saying she was in the ads for 03. A few people on various boards have made this mistake.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

I also have an issue with pre-listening to Burr's description, if indeed he is hoping for our unaffected reactions. But as with any mystery, it's awfully difficult to turn one's face away from the clues.

I guess one thing we should consider is that although he pointedly keeps the name of the fume hidden, and that on the surface of things, that would seem to be the hook, the mystery of what it is is not supposed to be the main point of the exercise.

Having said that, this is the most expensive stuff per ml so far.

So within this exercise we continue to be confronted by an attendant mystery and it's clues, whether we, or Chandler, likes that aspect or not.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Someone said on the last thread that Chandler needs a good editor. Wow - this write-up is pretty awful. That continuing heroin metaphor that just sort of morphs for a second into a penetration reference? That whole third paragraph is a mess. I know he's writing this for modern art patrons, not us, but this is the kind of buzzword-laden faux-shocking gibberish ("ubiquitous Freudian transference"??) that I used to try to pass off as deep thinking in my college literature classes...

And you know it's just going to be some lavender scent or something.

Oh, and if you read this, Mr. Burr, I'm not trying to be an awful troll. I'm actually quite nice in real life and a fan of your reviews, and I'm enjoying what you're doing here, so please keep it up!

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Heperd, this <<Should I read Burr's description? Im inclined to skip all descriptions and discussions until Ive had it for about 1 week.>> is actually a very interesting approach; I hadn't thought of it simply because I don't think Open Sky and I could conduct the Untitled Series without supplying a description to each Untitled on Open Sky's website. But holding off for a week on reading my descriptions while you experience the works without any outside inputs would (perhaps I shouldn't admit this) probably be my own approach as well.
best,
Chandler

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Oh, and if you read this, Mr. Burr, I'm not trying to be an awful troll. I'm actually quite nice in real life and a fan of your reviews, and I'm enjoying what you're doing here, so please keep it up!

Al, I don't think you could troll if they gave you an instruction manual!

Hey - I'm just glad to see that I'm not the only person in the room who discovered a kinder, gentler, and more artistic form of substance abuse!

Originally Posted by PerfumePorMoi

Not sure I'll participate this go round, but I am glad--overwrought heroin addiction metaphor aside--to see that Burr is keeping his description much more abstract with this one.

I immediately recognized S01E02 as Mugler Cologne, even though it isn't a scent I own and have only sniffed a couple times. His description helped to confirm my guess.

I suspect this will not be the case here.

Yes - I was really glad to see that this one is clearly out of the field of well-known scents - and Chandler isn't dropping any big identity hints, either.

Not commercial? That sounds like it's even beyond niche. Very cool.

- - - Updated - - -

Originally Posted by chandlerburr

Heperd, this <<Should I read Burr's description? Im inclined to skip all descriptions and discussions until Ive had it for about 1 week.>> is actually a very interesting approach; I hadn't thought of it simply because I don't think Open Sky and I could conduct the Untitled Series without supplying a description to each Untitled on Open Sky's website. But holding off for a week on reading my descriptions while you experience the works without any outside inputs would (perhaps I shouldn't admit this) probably be my own approach as well.
best,
Chandler

Thanks for dropping in, Chandler!

You know, even if you supplied the description as a spoiler link, I have a feeling that most of us would click it before dropping our $25-$60 (or more?) on an unknown bottle. I'll bet that only the most diehard players could resist clicking before the first sniff!

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto

You know, even if you supplied the description as a spoiler link, I have a feeling that most of us would click it before dropping our $25-$60 (or more?) on an unknown bottle. I'll bet that only the most diehard players could resist clicking before the first sniff!

What's the saying? In for a penny, in for a pound? If I could play (and it still looks like we ferners can't) I'd be very inclined to go Heperd's way and not read anything at all, especially now that I've watched the last two rounds from afar and seen the speculation based on Chandler's descriptions. My own thought was that he gave us way too much information about E02; if I'm truly doing this "untitled" and coming to it empty, then I don't want to read "green scent."

These things may seem obvious, but what's very striking to me is the effect that prior perfume knowledge has on the way a person approaches this project. I'm still quite a beginner, so "green" is something I'd like to be able to figure out on my own. That probably sounds silly to the advanced perfumista, but it would be an accomplishment for some of us.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Kagey

What's the saying? In for a penny, in for a pound? If I could play (and it still looks like we ferners can't) I'd be very inclined to go Heperd's way and not read anything at all, especially now that I've watched the last two rounds from afar and seen the speculation based on Chandler's descriptions. My own thought was that he gave us way too much information about E02; if I'm truly doing this "untitled" and coming to it empty, then I don't want to read "green scent."

These things may seem obvious, but what's very striking to me is the effect that prior perfume knowledge has on the way a person approaches this project. I'm still quite a beginner, so "green" is something I'd like to be able to figure out on my own. That probably sounds silly to the advanced perfumista, but it would be an accomplishment for some of us.

In for a penny, in for a pound?

TOTALLY!

I could probably go either way. On this last scent, I didn't even really notice the green streak when I first smelled it, despite reading the description. It was the soapy musks - so reminiscent of Voyage d'Hermès - that stood out. Whether I came to looking for the green stuff earlier or later, I would have probably come to the same conclusion - namely, "Huh? Green?"

Actually, what you're saying doesn't sound silly. Olfactory focus, like visual focus, takes a certain amount of training and/or experience. Even then, it's work. Discovering things on your own in olfaction really makes them stick hard - for better or worse. One of the ways that works well is to smell something, become able to recognize it in different places, and then read somebody else's very recognizable description of the feature. At that point it clicks - the "Aha! That's what they call it!" moment. I have to admit that I treasure those, so - yeah - I hear you.

I think the reason I'm so personally blasé about not reading anything beforehand is that I know I'm going to be probing the fragrance from every possible angle anyway, and the differences will (preferably) wash out and leave me at almost the same endpoint, after thousands of sniffs. I think it may come from my scientific background. I'm constantly willing to momentarily entertain possibilities - and then toss them on the junkpile (or retrieve them) as needed. I actually tend to find other people's observations very helpful, in that they move me through the process faster. To see the big picture, I would rather hear everybody, than hear only my own, limited viewpoint. And even that seemingly anti-Chandlerian statement is a great demonstration of what he's saying. Marketing, lone reviews, solitary opinions, and everything else, are NOT trying to advance you to the big picture. They are trying to tilt your perceptions in a desired direction - even when they try to be as "objective" as possible. We have to trust our own noses to tear ourselves away from these descriptions, and to begin believing that they are not the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth.

So is it desirable, then, to sniff with nobody's opinion but your own? In my opinion, yes and no. Yes, in that you need to learn to see with your own nose. No, in that you need to trust other people's noses, and preferably lots of noses, in this olfactory world where all humans are - in my opinion - legally blind.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

It's hard to get interersted in #3 when #1 & #2 were so mediocre. I don't think Chandker Burr has a clue to what a good perfume smells like.

He gives us alot of lofty verbage about the scent, but the scent itself isn't worth buying a bottle so far with #1 & #2. Maybe he'll improve his selections, but I doubt it.

You never know when your bottle of stout, classic juice is going to show up. While Burr hit my wardrobe once, and my FBW list on the other, I'm staying in the game to score when Puredistance M shows up with some kind of "you would never guess" description. I don't want to be doing a "Doh!" on that one. But on the other hand, I gotta say, Chandler's taste and yours aren't even close to coincident. You may want to hold out for something that indicates just a hint of the richness you generally love.

Originally Posted by heperd

I glad someone alerted me to Mr. Burrs response other wise I wouldnt have seen it because of avoiding the discussion. So, apparently I came up with a great idea .

Have any of you actually received the bottle? Mine hasnt shipped yet?

He may have said it was a good idea, hep, but he's just tempting you back to his own label. Watch out!

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Irina

Any news yet: did anyone actually smell this one yet?

Mine is "in preparation to be shipped". It won't be long!

I'm curious what percentage of the buyers are waiting for some sorts of impressions to be posted, before making the purchase. There is no warning of "bottles remaining" yet, despite there only being 125 of them in total. I realize that this is, in some ways, a very serious blind buy, but I was still thinking that the 125 might have been hit already.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto

I'm curious what percentage of the buyers are waiting for some sorts of impressions to be posted, before making the purchase.

Sadly I am in this camp. As much as I want to blindly dive in, I just can't do it without some idea what the notes are. My personal tastes and those of my wife are too limited to drop $50+ on a bottle I can't trust when we both have lists of fragrances we know we want. I could honestly drop over $1000 on wishlist fragrances tomorrow and know 100% that we both want them in the house. Spending $50 on a random question is hard to do. Hell just tonight I sampled an Amouage that I simply detest (Gold Man). Paying actual money for an ounce of it would be more than I could bear.

I think this project is very interesting and really want to play along, but the price of admission is irksome and the sample size is a bit large. Throw in the fact that my tastes are very different than Chandler's, and the risk becomes unbearable.

I am very grateful to those who participate and post their experiences here. Hopefully one of you will relay enough of the notes or sensations for me to make a "judgment call" (either way) without exceeding the spirit of the project.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Guibo

Sadly I am in this camp. As much as I want to blindly dive in, I just can't do it without some idea what the notes are. My personal tastes and those of my wife are too limited to drop $50+ on a bottle I can't trust when we both have lists of fragrances we know we want. I could honestly drop over $1000 on wishlist fragrances tomorrow and know 100% that we both want them in the house. Spending $50 on a random question is hard to do. Hell just tonight I sampled an Amouage that I simply detest (Gold Man). Paying actual money for an ounce of it would be more than I could bear.

I think this project is very interesting and really want to play along, but the price of admission is irksome and the sample size is a bit large. Throw in the fact that my tastes are very different than Chandler's, and the risk becomes unbearable.

I am very grateful to those who participate and post their experiences here. Hopefully one of you will relay enough of the notes or sensations for me to make a "judgment call" (either way) without exceeding the spirit of the project.

No need to apologize - I think that for most people, waiting is smart.

Tell you what - the initial impressions will be here by early next week. If it sounds good after a few of them are in, I'd say jump. But if you don't want to jump, just PM me and I can send you a sample. That way you can play along with people.

I agree - it's pretty steep for a blind buy. If my taste ran to more expensive fragrances, I'd be thinking twice about playing. However, I'm a bit of a sucker for fragrance art (despite my love of mainstream over niche), so I'd sooner spend cash for every bottle in this project than for a piece of normal visual art. Plus it's all going to a good cause - the MAD olfactory wing.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Red you rock!

I will be watching this thread with interest. I agree that spending on this project is more interesting than visual art. I have been bombarded with visual art my whole life. I am very new to olfactory art. Olfactory art is getting my vote (and my money) because it is a new experience to me and I enjoy it tremendously.

For the last two years I have honestly been participating in this without knowing it. I would come across reviews and forum threads that interested me in a fragrance. I put those in a list and ordered samples every so often. Due to my ignorance of fragrance, I saw everything as "Unlabeled". Dior and Amouage and Armani and Frederic Malle meant nothing to me. I just looked for scents that I liked.

Now I am tainted with brands, and honestly niche vs mainstream opinions. My wife still operates blind though. I do research, acquire samples, arrange testing and wait for her verdict. I tell her what she was supposed to smell after she tells me what she smelled.

Last week, I gave her some hype about new samples coming in. Then at the end of a long work day, I sprayed Secretions Magnifique on her wrist. The look on her face was priceless. She did not have the horror so often described, but a confused look. She kept trying to understand the scent, to rectify her expectation of a "perfume" and the nightmare on her wrist, of course the two were not compatible. This went on for far too long before I finally told her what it was. Her reply? "Is that it? I was expecting far worse!" If I had said "This is SM", she would have still said "Is that it?" The difference would be that she never would have tried to see it as a perfume.

To my mind this describes why this project is valuable. I don't think I would pick CB to run it (I'm leaning toward Alfarom for the job), but I appreciate the way CB is passionate about his choices.

Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E03

Originally Posted by Guibo

Due to my ignorance of fragrance, I saw everything as "Unlabeled". Dior and Amouage and Armani and Frederic Malle meant nothing to me.

I think this is a very cogent observation. While it's fun to get a handle on the various lines, there was something to be said for the time when I was also ignorant of all the various trappings and lore that surrounds the fragrance experience.

Burr seems to be trying to get us back to that time in our past when all we had to hold onto was the smell of the fragrance itself.