Sips of Recently Tasted California Pinot Noir

Aether Wine Company, Orcutt

These wines are the inaugural releases from owner and winemaker Jeff Fink, formerly of Tantara Winery. The
name Aether, means the fifth element. In early 2013, when Jeff began planning his first vintage, he identified a
number of special vineyards that would allow him to produce high quality wines. Some of these vineyards were
reliable old friends and others would be new. The resultant Aether wines come from vineyards that have
“inspirational qualities” as Jeff puts it. In addition to the Pinot Noirs offered here, Jeff released a 2013 Wolff
Vineyard Edna Valley Chardonnay. Before starting Aether Wine Company, Jeff launched the Pence Ranch
Estate wine program with the 2009-2012 vintages. If you are familiar with Jeff’s style of Pinot Noir at Tantara,
you will find similarities in these wines. Visit www.aetherwines.com.

14.2% alc., $50. Harvest Brix 23.8º average.
Clones 459, 115 and “828.” Indigenous primary and malolactic fermentation. 20% whole clusters. 15 to 20 days
on skins. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. The nose reveals its charms slowly in the glass, becoming a cherry bomb with
oak highlights. The mid weight flavors of black cherry and blueberry are embellished with cinnamon and other
spices in a silky textured wine with balanced tannins and juicy acidity. The bounty of cherry on the finish
appeals. Noticeably better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.Score:93

14.5% alc., $55. Harvest Brix 24.0º-24.3º. Clones 115
and 777. 50% whole cluster. 3 to 4-day cold soak, indigenous primary and malolactic fermentations. 17 to 20
days on skins. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. A mix of savory and fruity aromas on the nose, featuring scents of cherry,
strawberry, earthy flora, sandalwood and shitake mushroom. Vibrant and juicy on the palate with a
middleweight core of dark red cherry and berry goodness complimented by a touch of oak. The lightest in
weight of the four 2013 Aether wines, but highly enjoyable, with a cherry-fueled finish of some note. Even
better the following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle.Score:92

14.3% alc., pH
3.60, $60. Harvest Brix 24.4º, 100% de-stemmed, 3 to 4-day cold soak,
indigenous primary and malolactic fermentations, 18 days on skins, aged
18 months in neutral French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Very shy fruit expression on
the nose that is earth-laden. More expressive on the palate, with a bold
charge of black cherry and pomegranate fruits supported by grainy
tannins that add textural interest. This is the most extracted wine in the
2013 Aether lineup with the most fruit statement. The bountiful mid
palate presence and exceptional finishing length make this wine special.
Even more expressive the following day from a previously opened and
re-corked bottle.Score:93

14.4% alc., 100 cases, $58. 50% free run juice from estate
grown clones 777, 115 and Pommard 4 and 5.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Sustaining aromas
of cherry coulis and oak vanillin. More attack and concentration, with a dark fruit profile framed by filigree
tannins. Still a bit reticent and primary, yet showing great potential, with some length on the sappy-fruited finish.Score:91

13.5% alc., 143 cases, $48. Fifth release
from this vineyard located at 800 feet above the valley floor just east of Boonville. Farmed by the Knez family
and managed by Anthony Filiberti. Clones Pommard 667 and 115. 5-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation,
aged on the lees in French oak barrels, 17% new, for 11 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderate
reddish purple color in the glass. Perfume of blueberries, black leather, potting soil, and bruised apple.
Somewhat rugged and rustic, with a mid weight core of black raspberry and plum flavors that are earth infused.
The finish is the most inviting feature of the wine, showing bright acidity, even a slight tartness, and generous
fruit.Score:88

14.1% alc., 65 cases, $Sold out.
Sourced from a 3-acre vineyard farmed by Paul Sloan of Small Vines. The vineyard is planted to seven clones
with high-density spacing. Native yeast fermentation, bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderate reddish purple
hue in the glass. This wine has Russian River Valley typicality, with aromas and flavors of Bing cherry,
strawberry, spice and cola. Inviting elegance, with suave tannins and a modest finish. When tasted the
following day from a previously opened and re-corked bottle, the wine was still alive and cherry-driven.Score:89

14.2% alc., 187 cases, $54. Third
release from this extreme coastal vineyard in the hamlet of Annapolis in West Sonoma County. The vineyard
has recently been farmed to its full potential by Ulises Valdez. Clones 115 and 777. 5-day cold soak, native
yeast fermentation, aged on the lees in French oak barrels, 13% new, for 11 months. Bottled unfined and
unfiltered.
·Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Dreamy aromas of cherry, rose petal, spice and
sandalwood. Satiny and elegant on the palate, with a charge of cherry and strawberry flavors with a noticeable,
but not imposing, herbal oak overlay. Gossamer tannins made for easy like ability, and the finish enticed with
an oak-kissed cherry theme.Score:90

14.2% alc., 165 cases, $64. A blend of undisclosed
source in the Ft Ross-Seaview AVA. (72%), Campbell Ranch (14%) and Baranoff Vineyard (14%). Clones are
Pommard, Calera, 115, 777, 667, 459 and 113. Flagship cuvée representing a barrel selection of the best lots
in the vintage. 5-day cold soak, native yeast fermentation, aged on the gross lees in French oak barrels, 57%
new, for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Welcoming
aromas of blackberry, blueberry and pomegranate. Heady fruit flavors of blackberry and black raspberry are
embellished with spice and tobacco notes. The tannins are silky and the finish is spectacularly long. The only
features that detract are a heavy lean of oak and a slight sense of warmth on the ending, both of which I can
overlook because of the wine’s other merits.Score:91

la pitchoune winery, Santa Rosa

14.2% alc., 100 cases, $58.
·Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Muddled cherry and forest path aromas lead to a mid
weighted forceful attack of pleasing black cherry and blackberry flavors that show length and persistence
through the mid palate and grand finish. Very tasty, with impressive balance.Score:92

14.1% alc., 385 cases, $48.
·Moderately light reddish purple
color in the glass. Quite savory on the nose, with aromas of damp loam, earthy flora and herbal oak. More
fruity on the palate with a ripe but not over ripe core of black cherry, dark strawberry and black raspberry
flavors enhanced with notes of spice, herbs, black tea and dark chocolate. The overall sense is one of vibrancy
and the modest finish pleases. An impressive appellation wine.Score:90

Mercy Vineyards, Pebble Beach

Vintner Mike Kohne sent me the following wines for review. Mike partnered with vintner Mark Dirickson to
produce wines from Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA (see map below), specifically from three contiguous
vineyards located in a dried riverbed part of the AVA. Located along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this
riverbed corridor has ideal maritime climate and rocky, granite cobblestone surface soil over hardpan. The
meager soils, forceful winds and fog combine to limit yields. The wines are made by Mike who has been
crafting wine since 2001. Tasting is available at the Mercy Tasting Room in Carmel Valley. Visit
www.mercywines.com.

14.9% alc., pH 3.85, TA 0.58, 185 cases, $38. Dijon
clones 667 and 777, and Martini 13 and Pommard 4 clones. 100% de-stemmed, 2-day cold soak, inoculated
with proprietary yeast, spending an average of 12 days on skins. Aged nearly a year in French oak barrels,
25% new.
·Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Shy aromas of cherry, strawberry, and cigar smoke
lead to a mid weighted style featuring red fruits overlain with significant oak-driven flavors of vanilla and char.
Soft in the mouth with balanced tannins and a modest finish. When tasted the following day from a previously
opened and re-corked bottle, it was still challenging to find a lot of Pinot character under all the oak.Score:86

Morgan Winery, Salinas

Dan Morgan Lee and Donna Lee have offered artisan, vineyard-designated wines from the Santa Lucia
Highlands and Monterey under the Morgan label for three decades.

The 2014 growing season saw a continuation of the drought in California. Lower than normal rainfall totals and
a dry winter led to early bud break. The vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands were protected from a few heat
events by the mitigating proximity to Monterey Bay. The ripening period was fairly normal and long. Fruit quality
from the 2014 vintage was uniformly excellent.

Morgan Pinot Noir practices the following vinification scheme. The grapes are sorted both in the vineyard and
at the winery followed by 100% de-stemming. Whole berry fermentation is started with native yeasts in small,
open-top tanks. The caps are punched down three times a day by hand. Aging is carried out for about a year in
French oak barrels, 35% to 60% new.

14.2% alc., pH 3.64, TA
0.58, 45 cases, $60. Made from estate organic grapes. 100% de-stemmed, native yeast fermentation, aged 10
months in French oak barrels, 60% new.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Inviting aromas of black
cherry, cassis and a hint of vanilla. A mid to full bodied charge of black cherry and blackberry fruits saturates
the palate. Structured tannins back the lovely fruit, and oak notes of vanilla and toast play in the background.
The seamless mouthfeel is very inviting and my only nit is a slight sense of alcoholic warmth on the finish.Score:92

13.6% alc., pH 3.52, TA 0.62, 44
cases, $60. Clones are Pisoni and 777. Vineyard is three miles south of Double L Vineyard and was planted in
1996 by Gary Franscioni and his spouse Rosella. 100% de-stemmed, native yeasts began the whole berry
fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 60% new.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass.
This wine is more ripe fruited and more sappy than usual for wines from this vineyard. Aromas of black
raspberry, blackberry, game and brioche lead to a mid weight plus styled wine with a gorgeous core of
boysenberry, black raspberry and plum fruit well-accented with Asian 5-spice. Noticeable attack, expansive
presence on the palate, and a very sustaining finish. The tannins are well matched, and a subtle bit of oak
vanillin adds interest.Score:93

14.2% alc., pH 3.64, TA 0.58, 45 cases, $60. Clones
943, 115, “828,” and 777. This vineyard is adjacent Garys’
Vineyard and was established and is farmed by Tondre Alarid
and his son Joe. 100% de-stemmed, native yeasts started whole
berry fermentation, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 45%
new.
·Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Soaring
scents of Bing cherry, spices including nutmeg and sandalwood that
sustain over time in the glass. A highly satisfying wine with the mid
weight flavor of succulent, spiced cherry. The wine offers impeccable
balance and a memorable spiced cherry fueled finish. This vineyard has
a signature spice element that I have consistently tasted in multiple
wines from different producers and I believe this is one of Santa Lucia
Highland’s greatest Pinot Noir vineyards.Score:94

14.3% alc., pH 3.44, TA 0.63, 117 cases,
$60. Pisoni clone. This 50-acre vineyard is located four miles south of Double L Vineyard and is in a slightly
cooler area promoting later ripening and fresh acidity. 100% de-stemmed, whole berry fermentation started with
native yeasts, aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 60% new.
·Moderately dark reddish purple color in the
glass. Brooding aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and oak spice and toast. More expressive on the palate, with
mid weight plus flavors of perfectly ripened black cherry and boysenberry fruits that impose themselves on the
mid palate and finish with panache. Still a bit tight, but oh so pleasing, with a lengthy, juicy finish.Score:93

14.3% alc., pH 3.59, TA 0.59, 128 cases, $48.
This vineyard is owned and farmed by Dave Umino and is located in the Sebastopol Hills. Planted to Dijon
clones 777, 667, 115 and 459 on a former apple orchard in 1995. Clones 459, 115 and 777. Aged in 50% new,
25% once-used and 25% older French oak barrels.
·Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. On the
nose, dark cherry fruit is embellished with scents of violets, oak spice and vanilla creme. Mid weight plus in
style, with an array of earthy and mineral-toned darker fruits. The most concentrated of the 2014 Spell Pinot
Noirs, yet refined and easy to like with structured tannins, a velvety texture, and a charge of sweet blackberry
fruit on the big ending.Score:92

14.1% alc., pH 3.71, TA 0.58, 125 cases,
$48. Rochioli selection Pommard, 2A and a DRC selection. Aged in 33% new, 33% once-used and
33% older French oak barrels.
·Moderate reddish purple color in the glass. Highly aromatic, with scents
of cherry, exotic spices and potpourri. Plenty of flavor is packed into the mid palate and finish of this
mid weight, captivating wine that features black cherry and black raspberry fruits embellished with a
deft touch of oak and a bit of umami. Structured tannins are slightly astringent at this early stage. The
finish is one to celebrate, with extraordinary black cherry aromatic persistence. This zesty wine is
cause for celebration.Score:94

More Wines

12.7% alc., pH 3.60,
375 cases, $55. Vinted and bottled by Bowlus Vineyards, LLC, Healdsburg and vinified by Garrett Bowlus. The
25-acre estate vineyard is located on a steep and rocky ridge at 1250 feet overlooking the Pacific Ocean that
lies seven miles away. A very cool site with less than 2,000 degree days each season. This wine is a selection
of the finest barrels of the vintage. Yields 1.7 tons per acre. Harvest Brix 21.5º-23.5º. Clones 777, Pommard,
and “828.” 15% whole cluster. 4-day cold soak, long and cool fermentation in small open top tanks with native
yeast. Aged 11 months in 33% new French oak barrels. Unfined and unfiltered.
·Moderately light cherry red
color in the glass. Enticing marriage of dark red cherries, baking spices and sandalwood on the nose. Light to
mid weight flavors of red cherry, strawberry and cranberry presented in a delicate, charming style with a slightly
tart and saline-infused acid frame. Nicely balanced with sandy tannins and a finish replete with cherry and
blood orange flavors.Score:90

14.8% alc., 110 cases, $75.
Release summer 2016. Clones 115, 777 and Pommard 4 from home vineyard. Debut release and the
winemaker’s ultimate vintage statement in 2013. (Note: the wine is bottled with a thick wax capsule and a pull
tab but is very difficult to open. The look is very classy, but the imposing challenge of opening the wine offsets
the eye candy).
·Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. Nicely perfumed with a fusion of cherry and
spirited oak aromas. Light to mid weight in style, with a delectable core of cherry, cranberry and spicy oak
flavors. Gentle tannins make for easy approachability, and the wine finishes with a bright charge of sweet
cherry fruit accompanied by a cleansing and slightly citrus-driven acidity. This wine is not a typical blockbuster
reserve but is more dedicated to Pinot Noir elegance and typicality, proving that Pinot Noir doesn’t have to be
big and extracted to be superb.Score:92

14.5% alc., $60. Crafted by the cellar
master at Rochioli, Terry Bering, and bottled by J. Rochioli Vineyards for Castalia Wines.
·Moderate reddish
purple color in the glass. The aromas arrive slowly over time, featuring ripe cherry, baking spice and a hint of
sweet oak. Discreetly concentrated, with a generous attack of black cherry fruit backed by a mantle of oak.
Welcome mid palate bombastic cherry presence and some noticeable length on a finish that features
chocolate-covered cherry goodness. The tannins are still young and slightly drying and there is a subtle
warmth to the wine. The wine was more cohesive the following day when re-tasted from a previously opened
and re-corked bottle. Having tasted multiple vintages of this wine, I have found that the wines typically require a
few years in bottle to fully appeal and patience or vigorous decanting is advised.Score:92

14.4% alc., pH 3.42,
TA 0.585, 88 cases, $55. Yet to be released. 5-acre vineyard in Cambria planted to clones 5, 667, “828,” 115
and 23. Vines are between 9 and 14 years old. Inaugural reserve bottling selected from favorite four barrels
from the 2013 vintage. 10% whole cluster. Assmannhausen and RC212 yeasts. Extended barrel aging to 18
months in 50% new French oak.
·Moderately light reddish purple color in the glass. A very juicy and elegant
wine with aromas and flavors of blackberry and black cherry with a compliment of toasty oak. The tannins are
modest and proportional and the wine finishes with a sweet cherry tone that catches your attention.Score:90

13.5% alc., pH 3.70,
TA 0.50, >50,000 cases, $23. 3-day cold soak, punch downs
three times a day during fermentation with no postfermentation
maceration. Aged 8 months in French oak
barrels, 17% new. Racked once out of barrel at time of
blending just before bottling.
·Light cherry red color in the glass.
Striking aromas of Bing cherry, cola and spicy oak hold up in
the glass over time. Deliciously fruited core of cherry, strawberry and
cranberry flavors enhanced by a touch of oak spice and nutmeg. Crisp
and juicy, with milky tannins and a silky mouthfeel. A thorough enjoyable
offering perfect as a daily table wine. A most outstanding value priced
Pinot Noir and amazing quality considering the huge production.Score:90

13.2% alc., pH 3.68, TA 0.55, 684 cases,
$32. 83% Fe Ciega Vineyard, 9% Arita Hills Vineyard and 8% Cloud 9 Vineyard. 100% de-stemmed,
average 10 days fermentation, aged in French oak barrels, 12% new.
·Moderate reddish purple color
in the glass. Very nice aromas of black cherry, raspberry, compost, herbs and vanillin. A mid weight
plus core of black cherry and red currants is blessed with a deft oak embellishment. Sleek and silky,
with gorgeous balance and inviting intensity and length on the finish. Forward-drinking, yet has the
balance to age short term. This is the best Lovely Rita bottling in recent memory. It has become
increasingly difficult to find excellent value priced Pinot Noir and this wine still fits the bill.Score:91

14.2%
alc., pH 3.50, TA 0.60, 466 cases, $55. Sourced from Longoria’s only
estate vineyard that was planted by Rick Longoria in 1998 and expanded
to 10 acres in 2008. This vineyard consistently produces one of Sta. Rita
Hills’ finest Pinot Noirs. 100% de-stemmed, average 2-day cold soak,
inoculated with proprietary yeast strains, 11-day fermentation, aged 14
months in French oak barrels, 38% new. Lightly fined and filtered.
·Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. More glamorous and
less rugged in this vintage, with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and
pomegranate as well as subtle notes of forest path and oak. The aromas
are replicated on the palate in a mid weight juicy style, with matching
grainy but not muscular tannins. The wine’s inviting balance and a satiny
texture draw attention as does the intensely fruity finish.Score:93

14.2% alc., 450 cases, $42, screwcap. Sourced from a
number of vineyards including two Dutton Ranch properties, Cummings Vineyard, and the estate Thale’s
Vineyard. 100% gently de-stemmed, aged in French oak barrels from a number of different cooperages.
·Moderately light cherry red color in the glass. Nicely scented with aromas of Bing cherry, rose petal and spice.
Cherry-driven and straightforward, with good balance, easy approachability and a short, pleasing finish.Score:88

14.6% alc., 487 cases, $56,
screwcap. Sourced from a vineyard partner, Bruce Cummings, whose vineyard is located in the Santa Rosa
Plains neighborhood of the Russian River Valley. Clones 667, 777 and 115. 100% de-stemmed, inoculated
yeast fermentation following a 3-day cold soak, and aged 12 months in French oak barrels.
·Light cherry red in
color. Aromas of red cherry, oregano and sawmill. Light in weight with a core of red fruits in an elegantly style
wine with cedar-infused and spicy oak in the background. A demure, even mildly shallow, but charming wine
that has commendable balance.Score:88

752 cases, $90. Includes grapes from
vines that date to the 1980s. Patz & Hall has bottled a Pisoni vineyard designate since 1997. Wild and cultured
yeast fermentation, 12% whole clusters, aged in French oak barrels, 70% new, and bottled unfined and
unfiltered.
·Moderately dark reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of well-ripened black fruits and terra-cotta
lead to a full-bodied explosion of black berry and boysenberry fruit on entry. A masculine wine that offers
palate-staining fruit along with muscular, yet polished tannins, that corral the sappy fruit core. The oak is nicely
balanced and the alcohol peeks out only slightly. This vineyard always produces distinctive wines that have a
Pisoni stamp that are consistent across many producers. It is rare to find such a comparable terroir-driven
example in California.Score:93

14.6% alc., 345 cases $38. Sourced from
Veranda Vineyard. Winemaker is Tim Slater. Aged 11 months in French oak barrels, 25% new.
·Moderately light
reddish purple color in the glass. Aromas of red cherry, strawberry, and sandalwood lead to a mid weight style
wine with very tasty flavors of red cherry and strawberry with an oak overlay in the background. Nicely
composed with silky tannins and juicy fruit flavors in a forward drinking style that aims to please.Score:90