hey guys, my project 69 cutlass is coming to a close, and its just about time to put the engine in the car. is it possible to bolt up the engine/convertor and tranny at the same time and put it in the car, or is it best to just put the engine in first, then the convertor followed by the tranny?

You can install as an assembly or the engine first then the converter and the trans as an assembly. Do not install the converter separately you will have a bear of a time aligning the converter with the pump and could easily damage the pump.

It really depends on how much room you have in the engine compartment. In most standard trans setups it's generally easier to install the engine/trans as a unit. With an automatic if you have the room you can install the assembly as a unit or most often it's just easier to lower the engine in place and then bolt the trans and converter on as an assembly. The converter needs to be installed on the trans first to engage the pump correctly. Failure to do this can, as has been mentioned already, damage the pump on the trans.

My personal preference is to install them all in one piece because I have found it a real PITA to get a transmission to line up from under the car & this also affords me the ease of getting the converter into the pump and lined up to the flywheel easier.

You might find that its a little time consuming finding the proper angle to get it to slide down in the engine compartment I recently bought a tool for doing this but have never used it or one myself
I dont know the "proper" name for it but if you like I will snap a picture of it

tombo, if you have someone there to help guide it in, I'd do trans and engine as an assembly. You should have more room then I did in my nova, me and a friend put my bbc & 400 trans in pretty easy with just an engine hoist.

You might find that its a little time consuming finding the proper angle to get it to slide down in the engine compartment I recently bought a tool for doing this but have never used it or one myself
I dont know the "proper" name for it but if you like I will snap a picture of it

My oldest son and I pulled a blown motor and trans out together from a 68 Cutlass S. He had removed the hood, radiator and disconnected everything, take the bolts out the the trans mount under the trans..we didn't have to pull the cross member..its up to you. I don't remember if we pulled the distributor..if it mounts at the back of the motor by the firewall pull it out or it will hit, same with the replacement motor before you install it, pull the distributor if it mounts on the rear of the block..look for the ground strap at the rear of the block...I don't remember if thats just on Chevy's or all GM cars and don't forget to disconnect the cable going to the odometer on the trans. He dropped the drive shaft from the rear end and pulled it out and we hooked up to the old motor and pulled it out and up to clear everything. Be careful of the firewall..if it swings to much you will dent or scrap the fire wall. The replacement motor and trans went back in the same way the old one came out..In one unit. You will need a hydraulic jack under the trans pan to help guide it over the trans mounting member and make sure of the motor mounts...Early/68 and 69.....and late/72 and up...350 Olds blocks don't use the same mount spot on the block....one mounts to the rear the other to the front..I don't remember which was right for the 68 so just be sure you have the right spot or you'll end up pulling it all back out and move the mount. Tie a rag over the end of the trans tail shaft or put a cap on it where the drive-shaft goes in or you'll leak out trans fluid. They sell those caps at the trans shops..maybe even Summit Racing has them...I save mine and haven't bought any recently.

My oldest son and I pulled a blown motor and trans out together from a 68 Cutlass S. He had removed the hood, radiator and disconnected everything, take the bolts out the the trans mount under the trans..we didn't have to pull the cross member..its up to you. I don't remember if we pulled the distributor..if it mounts at the back of the motor by the firewall pull it out or it will hit, same with the replacement motor before you install it, pull the distributor if it mounts on the rear of the block..look for the ground strap at the rear of the block...I don't remember if thats just on Chevy's or all GM cars and don't forget to disconnect the cable going to the odometer on the trans. He dropped the drive shaft from the rear end and pulled it out and we hooked up to the old motor and pulled it out and up to clear everything. Be careful of the firewall..if it swings to much you will dent or scrap the fire wall. The replacement motor and trans went back in the same way the old one came out..In one unit. You will need a hydraulic jack under the trans pan to help guide it over the trans mounting member and make sure of the motor mounts...Early/68 and 69.....and late/72 and up...350 Olds blocks don't use the same mount spot on the block....one mounts to the rear the other to the front..I don't remember which was right for the 68 so just be sure you have the right spot or you'll end up pulling it all back out and move the mount. Tie a rag over the end of the trans tail shaft or put a cap on it where the drive-shaft goes in or you'll leak out trans fluid. They sell those caps at the trans shops..maybe even Summit Racing has them...I save mine and haven't bought any recently.

Tazz

as of right now theres nothing in it whatsoever, i bought the car as a roller last year. im sure i can put it together as one unit..but from the overall response of everyone here and where i work, its probably better if i install the engine first, followed by the convertor on the tranny

If you put the front up on jackstands a little it can also help with using a steeper angle to drop it in.I like putting them in together if at all possible. Lifting the front of the car gives you more tilt room, one of those sliding crankable engine booms is key. Just using a regular chain you will have issues trying to alter the original angle.

CAUTION if the tranny is filled you will have a mess unless you have a spare yoke to secure into it to seal up the back end.

With an auto it is not as hard to line up if the trans is in the car, standards can be a real *****, especially course spline input shafts.

Just for fun pretend you are under the car and try to get the trans up on the motor lying on your back or standing on your head tiring to hold the transmission while getting it lines up onto the dowel pins & getting the 1st 2 bolts in while it dangles over your head ........

any way...

DocVette whats this orange thinga migia called? For $20 I couldn't leave it all alone at the store

these are my other implements of installation the flat piece with the circle & slots I found in the dirt in a bone yard I didn't even realize what it was until about 4 years later {Doc If you know the name of it too?}
chain with ROUND hooks and anti slide/ adjustment bolts

Also the Round hook with the swivel is a nice option when swinging motors

i guess i'll at least give it a chance to bolt everything up and put everything in at once, im putting a pin-on hood onto the car anyway, and the radiator isn't in the car yet..if worse comes to worse i guess i can always just unbolt the tranny and convertor

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