Next, just pictures. I made the bed from scratch, and the folding screen. The table (the structure itself) I already had, just did the painting and the skirting. The lamp and the crochet bedspread came in a lot I bought from Gayle & John Constable, from Canada. I thought they'd be a perfect match! The memories set I already had too.

I made a tutorial on how to make this folding screen. I posted it on DHB Club, a social network for miniature enthusiasts only. It's FREE, and to join it all you have to do is follow this link. There you can either register or link using your Facebook account. If you can't see the tutorial post right away, it's because your registration has to be approved. This will happen soon, and then you'll have full access. The need for approval is necessary to keep the community spammers-free.

And here are the furniture pieces I got from Adriana. She made them all. Only the "sink" is from a collection by Planeta Deagostini. She had a duplicate and offered me one, which I gladly accepted. One of the taps got detached during transportation. But this is not a problem, as I was going to break that part apart and use them separately anyway. She's really talented! I can never manage to make all 4 cabriolet legs match!!!

quinta-feira, 14 de junho de 2012

Quando eu fiz o Quarto de Menina, em setembro do ano passado, um seguidor e conhecido de outros grupos perguntou se eu faria um tutorial da cama. Quando fiz a cama de menina, não tirei foto nenhuma do processo. Resolvi fazer outra agora, só para criar o tutorial. Desta vez não usei o Pretty Pleater, para mostrar uma alternativa com materiais que se encontram no Brasil. Mas recomendo MUITO comprar e usar esta ferramenta, é MUITO útil! A inventora (Danne Ruff) vende no site dela, aceita Paypal e despacha para o Brasil.When I made a Little Girl's Room, in September 2011, a follower and friend from Yahoo groups asked if I was going to publish a tutorial on the bed in it. I hadn't taken any pictures while making the bed, so it was not possible. So, I decided to make another one, just to make the tutorial. I tried to use only materials that can be found in Brazil, so this time I did not use the Pretty Pleater. But I strongly recommend it! The inventor of this wonderful tool, (Danne Ruff) sells them on her website.

3) Recorte uma tira que seja cerca de 1 cm mais larga que a lateral da caixa. Esta tira tem que ter um comprimento igual ao dobro da medida de três lados da caixa (o lado onde vai a cabeceira não conta).3) Cut a strip of fabric that is about 1/4" wider than the side of the box, and 2 times as long as the 3 sides together (except the "headboard" one).

4) Dobre e cole as laterais da tira como ensinado no tutorial da cortina. SEMPRE espalhe a cola delicadamente para não vazar para o outro lado do tecido! Passe bem todos os recortes de tecido antes de continuar.4) Fold and glue the rim sides of the strip, as I showed for the curtains tutorial. ALWAYS spread the glue before gluing, so as it won't "bleed" to the other side of the fabric! Iron all fabric pieces well before you proceed.

6) Vá encaixando a tira nos palitos, com ajuda de cartões de crédito, como mostrado na foto. Mantenha um cartão segurando o tecido e encaixe com o outro. Segure este, use o outro cartão para encaixar no próximo espaço e assim por diante. A fita dupla-face irá segurar o tecido no lugar.6) Insert the fabric strip into the spaces, using two credit cards (or similar) to help you. Use one to hold fabric in place while pushing a new part of the fabric into the next "slot". Hold this one down and use the first one to push the next part and so on. The double-sided tape underneath will hold the fabric in place.

7) Aplique o spray de cabelo ou gel. Espere secar completamente. Pode usar secador de cabelo para acelerar. Use no fraco para não deformar a placa de corte nem tirar o tecido do lugar.... Depois de seca, retire com cuidado. Repita o processo até ter marcado a tira inteira.7) Apply hairspray or the hair-gel/water mixture all over it. Wait until it dries completely. You may use hair drier to speed up, but use the lower speed/heat so as not to warp the cutting mat neither push fabric out of place... After completely dry, remove carefully. Repeat the process until the whole strip is pleated.

8) Enquanto espera secar, cole a espuma no detalhe da cabeceira, e os tecidos nos moldes como na foto. Recorte nas curvas e cole a sobra para dentro.8) While you wait for it to dry, go ahead and glue foam on the template (Bristol board) for the headboard detail. Glue the fabric pieces onto the templates, as shown on picture. Cut some "V"s to help folding and glue trim on the other side of the templates.

9) Cole o molde de cartolina forrado sobre o molde de papelão forrado, avesso sobre avesso. Cole a parte de espuma, já forrada, sobre a parte de papelão. Reserve.
9) Glue Bristol board template (already with fabric) on the cardboard one, back to back, as shown on picture. Glue the foam ornament on top of the thicker side of the headboard. Set aside.

10) Recorte o tecido para a colcha, de modo que sobre 2 cm de cada lado da caixa. Cole as laterais primeiro. Depois cole o lado da cabeceira e dos pés da cama. Veja nas fotos.10) Cut fabric to cover the "bed", with an extra inch on each side as rim. Glue sides first and then "head" and "foot" of the bed, as shown on pictures.

Cabeceira da cama"Head" side of the bed

Pé da cama"Feet" side of the bed

11) Depois da tira lateral ter secado, comece a colar na lateral da cama. Cole só cerca de 1 cm na cabeceira, para não fazer volume. Cole mais juntinho na curva (veja foto) para ficar mais natural.11) After the pleated fabric strip is completely dry, start gluing to the sides of the bed. Glue just about 1/4" to the back of the "head" part (so as not to "bulk up"). Gather the pleats together when gluing the corners of the "skirt" to the "bed" for a more natural look (check picture).

12) Cole o acabamento que tiver escolhido, ocultando a emenda dos tecidos.12) Glue whichever trimming you chose, so as to hide the top of the pleats and make a more natural transition.

13) Cole a cabeceira na cama. Segure bem até a cola secar.13) Glue the headboard to the bed. Hold in place until dry. 14) Para os travesseiros, recorte uma tira da espuma ou EVA com 3 vezes a altura do travesseiro que quer e 1 vez a largura.14) To make pillows, cut another strip of the foam or EVA sheet, which should be 3 times as desired pillow "height" in length and the same "width" of the pillow.

15) Dobre em três como na foto e cole. Coloque um peso por cima até secar.15) Fold in three and glue, as shown on picture. Put some weight on top to hold in place until dry.

16) Recorte uma tira de cada tecido, cerca de 1 cm mais larga que a altura do travesseiro e 1,5 vez o comprimento. Cole as laterais, e depois cole como na foto, deixando uma abertura para inserir a espuma (o "travesseiro".16) Cut another strip of each fabric, about 1/4" wider than the desired width of the pillowcase and 1 1/2 longer than it. Glue rim in and then fold and glue as shown in picture, leaving an opening to insert the "pillow".

17) Pronto!!! É só colocar os travesseiros no lugar e sua cama está pronta!17) It's ready!!! All you have to do now is place the pillows on the bed and enjoy!

To be honest, for a boy bed I'd have pleated the skirt the same way as I worked on the curtains, for a more natural look. But as I wanted to show an alternative way to make pleats, the bed tutorial was a good 'excuse'... :)

When removing from backing, place your finger on the part you are removing to keep from loosing it. They tend to "fly away" and get lost very easily! Remove only the parts you're going to use immediately, so as not to lose or break them. They are VERY small and fragile!

ALWAYS let parts dry WELL before moving to the next step. If you rush, you'll ruin your work and will have to start all over again! And trust me, you don't want that extra layer of dry glue on your delicate work! Also wait paint dry WELL before moving parts! Just step away and go do something else! :)