Hi,
I noticed, watching videos on you tube, I have a different screen than others. Mine says (in the left upper corner) 3D 300. The ones I saw on the internet just said 3D.
And, most important... I do not have an option autotemp off and motion and lcd contrast.
What is this???

Sounds like you have either a newer or custom built firmware. Where did you get your printer from? There are a lot of companies reselling the CR-10 series, some of them modify the firmware (I have the Hictop version).

As to moving the Z axis to clean the heads, you should be able to do that in the Prepare->Move Axis menu. Just select the Z axis, then rotate the knob to move the head.

Not sure, but from what I have heard on the facebook and thingiverse forums about issues people have, I haven't seen any. Other than the wire harness support for the bed heater and wheels for the bed leveling screws, mine is unchanged from factory. I did replace the glass with a mirror, but almost everyone does that.

I should also note that very shortly after I bought it, a Hictop rep posted on facebook offering a gift for people that were buying one. The gift was a replacement print head assembly, along with plugs and wire crimps so that you can easily swap out the print head hot end, sensor and fans without having to rebuild the wiring harness. As I had just bought that kit on Amazon as a spare, I sent them the order info and they sent me a refund via Paypal.

On my older 3DP-17, I blew the main board. They sent me a replacement, no questions asked (I bought a replacement off Amazon though because the replacement took 6 weeks to get through customs).

Hictop, while like most Chinese companies tend to cut corners and go for cheap, have at least stood behind their products. I don't know what their relationship is to Creality (I think they are subsidiaries of some parent company), but they have been reliable.

On my older 3DP-17, I blew the main board. They sent me a replacement, no questions asked (I bought a replacement off Amazon though because the replacement took 6 weeks to get through customs).

I noticed when I first started using my 3D Printers from Hictop that the mosfets were in my opinion too hot.
So the first fix was to add heat sinks to the To3 mosfets. Then applied fan cooling to the heat sinks.

I too had a bad Controller but I believe it was sums of most of my problems. I determined it was defective and they replaced it under warrant.

I have a HICTOP and Creality CR-10s, the Hictop version which I got first has been brilliant, worked straight out the box, everything was pre-tightened and have had zero problems, I did add the supporting rod set, the CCTREE build surface and I changed the extruder drive feed for the snazzy looking but probably unnecessary aluminium one.

My Creality one however has had constant issues. I guess I was spoilt by the Hictop. Having just assembled one I assumed that everything had been tightened (it wasn't), I assumed that the z-axis coupler wouldn't have to be assembled (or pushed in to the rummer mount part of the coupler) so my first test print was a disaster and as the adjustable wheels on the runners weren't tight the z-axis was visually moving at different rates on the left & right.

After adjusting and tightening everything it's OK, but the Hictop has a nice 'Load/Unload Filament' option in the menu that the Creality doesn't have, we had a couple of power cuts and the Hictop resumed without a problem the Creality didn't and I find the print bed on the Creality takes longer to heat-up and then appears to drop the temperature (shut down) unexpectedly. I use exactly the same Cura files for both, but I find I 'trust' the Hictop, if I hadn't upgraded the Creality with the same supporting rod set, alu extruder drive and build surface I'd probably want to return it!

I was going to buy the Duale 3 with my last stock quick sale, but instead opted to upgrade my camera gear (Go Pro Hero 6, Canon T7i, lenses, etc). Now I am no longer working for that company, having moved to a startup last month (less stress). I'll have to save my money to buy the next printer, maybe early next year.