Is the pad sensor still plugged in? I would just zip tie it out of the way so it won't get damaged.

Then all you need to do is reset the brake pads via put key in ignition and press start w/o brake pedal. Then hold your odometer reset until it changes to a menu and then use your gauge toggle to select the front brakes and hold until the clock completes.

If you follow the link above it will reset it if there are still miles remaining before hitting zero. However one thing to note that I have noticed is if your car has gone all the way to the zero miles remaining mark for the brake pad change then it may be a PITA. It seems once it hits zero you physically have to unplug the brake pad sensor cable from the wheel well(front and/or back), turn on the car while unplugged, turn off car, plug sensor back in, and then perform the reset. I could be wrong about this but that was the only way I could get mine to reset.

If you follow the link above it will reset it if there are still miles remaining before hitting zero. However one thing to note that I have noticed is if your car has gone all the way to the zero miles remaining mark for the brake pad change then it may be a PITA. It seems once it hits zero you physically have to unplug the brake pad sensor cable from the wheel well(front and/or back), turn on the car while unplugged, turn off car, plug sensor back in, and then perform the reset. I could be wrong about this but that was the only way I could get mine to reset.

So based on your pics it looks like you did the dash reset procedure correctly.

But as I mentioned before because it is already at zero or below you need to unplug the sensors from the wheel well. I think I actually did the reset while they were unplugged and then again after I plugged them back in. This will remove the light.

So based on your pics it looks like you did the dash reset procedure correctly.

But as I mentioned before because it is already at zero or below you need to unplug the sensors from the wheel well. I think I actually did the reset while they were unplugged and then again after I plugged them back in. This will remove the light.

Damn so much of a hassle

I just wish the dealer would do it..

If only I could find a set of used oem pads...with less than 3mm life..

My advice is to keep the sensors plugged in on the wheel well side but NOT plugged in on the brake pad side. Take a zip tie and tie up the loose end to the control arm or something out of the way. Reason for this is on the track I imagine you go through pads quickly and those sensors cost about $20 a piece. If you are monitoring the pads yourself then no need to keep burning through sensors.

**disclaimer - assuming you are monitoring you brake pad thickness with your regularly with your eyes** BECAUSE RACECAR you should.

My advice is to keep the sensors plugged in on the wheel well side but NOT plugged in on the brake pad side. Take a zip tie and tie up the loose end to the control arm or something out of the way. Reason for this is on the track I imagine you go through pads quickly and those sensors cost about $20 a piece. If you are monitoring the pads yourself then no need to keep burning through sensors.

**disclaimer - assuming you are monitoring you brake pad thickness with your regularly with your eyes** BECAUSE RACECAR you should.

Well the brake bias on this car makes it so you barely use any rear pads.

My StopTech Street pads I had on my stock calipers were at 80% after 7 track days, while the fronts were pretty much gone.

Or are you referring to the front? the front sensors aren't plugged in, they're zip tied. Not sure where though... lol
Yes I do monitor the pad. I check them visually before every track day