"This method employs the timing marks positioned at the side of the pulley and on the crankshaft but the adjustment is made while the engine is stationary. "

What are the timing marks and where can I find them? I've read one is on the "timing cover" which I think it's on the engine, and the other on the pulley which I think is the rotating thing on the front lower end of the engine.
Apparently the timing cover is easy to find, but on the pulley not so much, I read it's easier if I just find top dead center and it should align by itself on the pulley, but what will I be looking for? And is this true for all cars? I have a 1974 MKII Midget.

"Then connect a 12 volt test lamp (you can make one up from an old side light unit) between the low tension terminal on the side of the distributor and a good earth on the engine."

Can somebody enlighten me on how to make the lamp and where to connect it exactly? I have seen them but I went to 5 electric and car shops and the only thing they tried to sell me has a $150 laser-strobe timing gun or something fancy like that.

What is the low tension terminal? And what is a good earth or a "hot" part? I would rather be told where to put it exactly.

I think this covers the first step of what I need to pull it off, then will be those "degrees" I have no idea what they mean.

I am trying to learn because everyone who I've taken the car to, do it just by ear or something like that and the car never sounds quite right.
My main sources are the library here and the videos of John Twist from university motors found here

The timing mark is on the front crankshaft pulley. There is a tiny groove on the pulley wheel that is very hard to see but when you do find it then either cover it with some white chalk or white paint so that you can find it again.
Next the "pointer" is at the bottom of the engine just behind the crankshaft pulley. There are two or three "spikes" pointing down, the biggest one is the "zero" and the others are something like 5 and 10 degrees before zero. When the white line and the big pointer are together then you are at "zero"
The test light is ANY small 12 volt light bulb with two wires connected to it (if you have access to Harbor Freight they have a good usable one for about $2). If you put one wire on the + on the battery and one on the - and it lights then it will work for you.
The little place on the side of the distributor that has a small wire (white with black stripe) is the "low tension" terminal and where you should hook one of the wires from your test light (either wire, it doesn't matter which).
Touch the other wire to ground for the other connection.
When you move the distributor back and forth a little bit the light will turn on and off.
If you move the timing mark to the first little pointer and now move the distributor to where the light just turns on and off then you will be very close to correct.
It is best to have someone show you haw to do this but those are the basics.
BillM

Ohh but your explanation makes it a lot more clear.
You say the marks on the timing cover (engine) are on the bottom, and looking in the video (for like the 30th time) it looks as if I will only be able to see them from underneath the car, is this true?

Also I have a distributor here at hand and it has a small cable in front of the condenser (screwed to the condenser and the distributor body), then another one going out of the black part of the condenser like a tail, and finally a cable going from the inside to the outside of the dist. which one is the low volt?
And when you say "touch ground" can you be more specific? Like the body of the car? What par would be best suited?

Thanks and sorry for the dumb questions, bud god gave me my looks instead of proper knowledge or understanding of even basic machines hahaha.

In reply to # 2036882 by TheFlyingMG
Thanks and sorry for the dumb questions, bud god gave me my looks instead of proper knowledge or understanding of even basic machines hahaha.

ground is the body of the car yes

Thats basically how we all start. British car knowlege is not a priori. No one is born with it. I grew up with a dad that taught me. Honestly I think what you need is to get a repair manual, some basic tools like a grease gun, a jack, a timing light, and some jackstands and then spend some time spinning some wrenches on your car. Stop giving ip and taking it to mechanics because at least here in the states, they are cluless about these old MGs. No classic car owner starts out a McGyver, but they get there eventually if they are committed to the hobby. Those that rely on mechanics usually burn out, give up and move on to more modern machinery that requires much less attention.

sorry for having some humor prop I'll filter myself from now on just for you. If someone is going to get fired for being on this site its not going to be about a stoned toaster, it will be for being on a forum & not doing the work you're paid to do.]Just sayin

In reply to # 2037166 by Midget79
sorry for having some humor prop I'll filter myself from now on just for you. If someone is going to get fired for being on this site its not going to be about a stoned toaster, it will be for being on a forum & not doing the work you're paid to do.]Just sayin

That's not humor its spam, you need to lay off the crack right now man.

Remove valve cover.
Crawl around under car until you find something like shown in the picture. Set the notch in the pulley to the pointer representing the "10 degree before top dead center" mark.
Now since the valve cover is off, look at the two rockers (valve actuators) at the front of the engine. If they are both level and have a bit of free play, then the enigne is set at 10 degrees before the pistn reaches the top of the cylinder, on the compression stroke. This represents the exact piston position for when the spark needs to happen.

If both the rockers are not free, then rotate the engine one full turn and check again.

Once you are happy that your pointer is lined up, and that the enigne is on the right stroke, hand your friend a beer bottle.
Turn on the ignition
Have your fiend hold the end of the plug wire with a spare plug stuck in the boot; make sure his is holding the base of the plug.
With the key in the ON positon, start turning the distributor body back and forth.
The engine will be timed correctly at the exact point where your buddy smashes his beer bottle over your head. Trust me, you will know. Stop turning the distributor at that point. Your done.
In your newly concused state, do not forget to tighten down the distributor clamp and replace the valve cover before road testing.

That's a very nice diagram, so the markings are on the top or the pulley but are seen from under the car? I don't need to remove anything from the car to see it right?

I don't want to remove the valve cover because it has a DIY cork seal with window seal on the valve cover and engine (I now know that's wrong).
And right now my GF is the only one that could help me but if I shock her with a spark she may cut my gentleman's vegetables in the middle of the night hahaha.

AmishIndy: If the car has the wrong timing cover I am screwed anyways am I? Both (or all) methods require this thing?
Or when I see the piston on the sparkplug hole when it's at TDC any point of reference between the pulley and the engine would make it work?