Ramen Shop, in the space that most recently was Tachibana, is a partnership of three former Chez Panisse staffers.

Photo: John Storey

Ramen Shop, in the space that most recently was Tachibana, is a...

Image 2 of 4

Many people prefer Ramen Shop's long counter, where they can see the kitchen work its magic.

Photo: John Storey

Many people prefer Ramen Shop's long counter, where they can see...

Image 3 of 4

Many people prefer Ramen Shop's long counter, where they can see the kitchen work its magic. Left: vegetable miso ramen with Mendocino nori and maitake mushrooms. Above: house-pickled daikon with spicy watermelon radish.

Maybe it's that we're so in love with Japanese noodles. Or maybe it's the Chez Panisse connection.

Whatever reason, from the day it opened, Oakland's Ramen Shop has been more crowded than a Tokyo bus at rush hour.

Even by 5:15 p.m. on a recent Wednesday, names were already scrawled on the chalkboard behind the host stand as people waited in the lounge for one of the 45 seats at a table or at the long counter where people can watch the action in the kitchen.

The Ramen Shop, in the space of what was most recently Tachibana, is a partnership of Jerry Jaksich, Rayneil De Guzman and Sam White, who met while working at Chez Panisse. Their pedigree is on full display at the restaurant, from the Japanese whiskey behind the bar to the Japanese noodle machine in the corner of the kitchen.

The menu is limited to a couple of appetizers, three varieties of ramen and, more often than not, ice cream sandwiches for dessert. Yet each element is meticulously crafted, and every nuance is thought out.

Diners can see one of the cooks in the crowded, utilitarian kitchen preparing each wok-smoked black cod salad ($12) to order. She uses a mandolin to shave the golden beets and watermelon radishes, and chef's knife to slice the Cara Cara oranges and julienne the radishes. She tosses the ingredients in the dressing and carefully arranges them on a pottery plate, with thin flakes of seafood and a sprinkling of salt. It's a dynamic explosion of color and flavors.

Mixes of flavors

That's the way it goes every night. One time the appetizer could be house-smoked sardines ($10) buried in a collection of pickles: scarlet turnips, watermelon radish, daikon, onions, beets and mushrooms. For pickle fanatics like me, it's pure heaven; each flavor is different, but the essence of the vegetable comes through.

Other nights, the starters could include halibut tartare ($12) or a kampachi and shrimp salad ($12) with Little Gems and beets. Often there's also a pork donburi ($9). The one consistent offering has been wild nettle pork fried rice with chile paste and sometimes with shrimp ($10-$11). Each grain of rice is separate, but infused with meaty flavors; the chile heat fires back, gently grabbing the back of the throat.

By the setup in the kitchen it's clear that ramen is the main event. Jaksich stands at the stove facing diners next to his wooden crates of portioned noodles, tasting and adjusting the pots of broth - generally miso, tonkotsu (pork) and shoyu. To complete the ramen, he turns to get what's sauteed in the wok by De Guzman and his crew.

The partners mined the same obsessive tendencies in building out the space. They wanted to re-create the feel of a noodle house in Japan, so they turned to recycled fixtures. Rough wood beams frame the dining room, and black fabric stretches across the ceiling, making the interior feel a little makeshift. Yet the style is exacting, from the 18-seat Douglas fir counter to the rusted stools and the rough wood boxes on the tables that house the chopsticks, spoons and brown paper napkins.

Ramen the star

Jaksich's passion is on display with the shoyu Meyer lemon ramen ($14), topped with a spit-roasted slice of pork, a marinated half egg with a still-runny center, broccoli rabe and a small fist of mizuna. If you take the time to stop and smell what's in the bowl, you can detect the smoky earthiness of the meat, the sweet perfume of the citrus and the peppery nuances of greens that intensify as they warm in the hot, rich broth.

In addition there's always a garlicky vegetable miso ramen ($13), which on my visits had mizuna, a half of an egg, broccoli rabe and some form of mushroom.

One night I had spicy tantanmen ramen ($14) with a shoyu egg, bok choy and ground pork belly that gave the broth a thick, velvety texture. Another night, kotteri miso ($14) had an even thicker, richer texture, with ground pork belly and Manila clams. On different visit, the spicy ramen ($15) was accented with clams and the light menthol flavor of chrysanthemum leaves.

While the noodles are always the same, the ingredients around them change. On each of my three visits, the quality of the ramen continued to improve. Clearly, the kitchen is finding its groove.

On my final visit, I had another Chez Panisse moment. The kitchen replaced one of the ice cream sandwiches with a small cup of chocolate pudding ($6) with a rum whipped cream, two chocolate wafer cookies and three tiny Kishu tangerines. I'd never seen citrus quite this small, no bigger than a walnut, but the flavors were intense.

Given the instant popularity of the place, service is surprisingly cheerful and helpful. You don't feel as if you're being rushed, but you can finish three courses in less than an hour. And believe me, there will always be someone waiting for your seat.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.