Sweet!

Year in review: I packed up my stuff from New York and drove out to San Francisco. Opened (or re-opened) three restaurants. Two of which could really go nowhere due to lack of funding, but great learning experiences nonetheless. And one that I finally call home: Citizen Cake.

A conversation plays back in my head, my exit talk with Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin. Where we sat and chatted for a good half hour or so in private about life, cooking, and the future. A luxury rarely afforded at such a busy restaurant with a chef whose time is highly scheduled.

He said, “It all clicked for me here, all my years of hard work, it clicked into place for me here.”

It did not click for me at Le Bernardin, but I recall his words vividly and daily because I feel that way now. Every little thing I’ve learned along the way from every single restaurant. Including Le Club and Circa and Le Bernardin and Guy Savoy and Ecco. It now adds up.

It shapes every aspect of my kitchen today.

From the way I cook fish and meat, to how I make stocks and sauces, to what kind of team environment I want and don’t want, to what it means to mentor and train new cooks, and how to be a better chef.

And there is still so much to learn. Like how to not burn myself out. How not to burn my self. How to let go. How to trust. How to inspire. How to better manage payroll and restaurant numbers. How to keep personal life in balance (Not very good at this one yet). How to stay creative. How to stay in season. How to stay strong.

Opening a restaurant from scratch, from construction site to wow-people-are-actually-sitting-down-and-dining is a miraculous event. I sometimes look out from my very open kitchen and wonder how it all happened.

Only two months ago we were scrubbing the floors, setting up metro shelving, testing recipes, polishing pastry cases, unloading plates and dishes, ordering dry goods in bulk, hiring our first team, and staring at each other wondering how it was all going to get finished in time.

Now we have cakes in the pastry case, a vibrant and professional serving staff, a kitchen staff that is positive and talented, and food to serve for lunch and dinner. And we have Open Table so people can make reservations. What more could a chef ask for?

We survived/thirved the holidays shortly after opening our doors. Which for a restaurant that does a huge amount of specialty pastries, confections, and cakes is no laughing matter. Our amazing bakery put out all sorts of pies for Thanksgiving that decorated the walls pink in their pre-ordered carry boxes half way up to the ceiling.

People lined up on the street to get first dibs on the Christmas stollen, bouche de Noels, and eggnog cheesecake. Not to mention the ginger bread men and woman that flaunted bikinis and bright colored swim trunks. The restaurant was booked solid on New Years – no reservations on Open Table left to be made – and was filled with holiday shoppers morning, noon, and night.

And now, just when we thought we’d gasp for air, the reviewers are piling in under the radar. No one can let down their guard, not even for a second. And with the way things are today, everyone is a reviewer.

There is no such thing as a “VIP solo diner” anymore. I recall at Guy Savoy the resounding “Très, très soignier!” (very, very clean) from Chef Guy himself for solo diners that might possibly be Michelin scouts. But here in the States every person is a VIP yelper or blogger or twitterer or word-of-mouther. That’s tough for a new restaurant. But good. It’s the way it should be. Bring it on.

For me, one of the greatest gifts Citizen Cake has brought is the opportunity to work with Elizabeth Falkner. A great Chef and mentor. I love the creative freedom, I thrive on the tips and hints that make me a better chef, I appreciate the wisdom that comes from years of experience. And the female connection into the cooking world has been enormously helpful and resourceful.

My team is awesome. Two have left, but they are forever remembered in our hearts for all their hard work and energy in the early, early days. And our newest hires are brining fresh energy daily, which we greatly appreciate. We enjoy cooking together. I think it shows in the food.

27 Comments on "Sweet!"

Welcome back and happy 2011 and new venture. I have been waiting to see in what new incarnation you would hopefully reappear. Sounds like another exciting venue with much fodder for your insightful and always entertaining adventures. Buona fortuna and “in boca al lupo” (“in the mouth of the wolf”…an Italian saying in the tradition of ‘break a leg”).

I’ll be visiting my family next month from Paris, and will definitely come in with my little boys! As a fellow SF native (transplanted in Paris), I’ve been following your set backs and achievements, wide-eyed at your dedication, and always with admiration. Bravo, to you, for finding your ‘home’. Much, much respect.

I take back what I said about you not having blogged in months. Great to see a new post, even better to see that big smile on your face.
I have to follow my sibling’s pilgrimage and get over to CC3.0, but over here there’s foie frais and sweet sweet booze available whenever you can step away for a little break.

I’m definitely feeling older and wiser this year. And I’m ready for some fun. Last year was a lot of hard work with not a lot to show for it. I made choices without studying the whole picture first. Now I know better. Hard learning is sometimes the best learning. But this year already feels more settled in a good way. More organic.
I hope that everyone is off to a good start! Happy New Years!!!
And yes, wattacetti, you must come in! But I will make the foie pilgrimage in the spring!

How bizarre! I thought about you today and if you were still in the Marina and looked up your blog and here you are just posting this message. Now that’s Universal synchronicity. Love Elizabeth Faulkner and so glad you have landed where you feel is home. My husband and I have an anniversary coming up in early March, so I will talk him into coming. We’re just over the bridge so not so far away.
Best to you and Let Them Eat Citizen Cake..and more!

I’m so pleased you are happy and things are working out for you. You certainly deserve it! And thanks for all the inspiration to get me creative in the kitchen again every time I read your blog.
Having a couple of ‘failures’ behind you is an asset (so long as you learn from them!). They help to free you from the fear of failure – you have been there before and survived, it wasn’t so bad after all. You can take the future risks and responsibilities head-on, and still sleep at night!

Though obviously the lesser known of two brothers, you were very kind to me when I stepped foot into your restaurants (CC and previously Circa). I’m not the foodie my bro is, but I do know I really enjoyed your food. Plus you looked like you were really enjoying Citizen Cake when I was there last.
Happy for your success! and hope you make it to the Great White North sometime.

I always enjoy hearing about what adventure your on..you inspire me!!! I have seriously thought of taking the step of starting a catering co. I am passionate about baking french pastries ever since I got back from the Le Cordon Bleu in Paris.

I’ve missed you so much!! Glad things are going well. Woohoo for Citizen Cake!! Elizabeth Falkner is amazing! Justin and I saw you on Avec Eric earlier this week. You are so fabulous! Keep in touch! – xoxo

Hello,
I came across your website and found it alluring and exciting. I am a big fan of travel. If you could e-mail me back, that would be great. I just had a couple questions.
I look forward to hearing back from you soon! Have a great day.