.London in 1600 was one of the
great crossroads of the world. From all the
regions of Britain and from lands across the
seas, people crowded into the city to conduct
business, find work (see the
glossary of common occupations, below),
gain standing at the royal court, or entertain
themselves or others. Greater London at that
time had more than 200,000 residents, many of
them living beyond the boundaries of the
original walled city founded as Londinium by the
Romans when they arrived in southeastern Britain
in AD 43.
William Shakespeare made London his second home
between the late 1580's and 1612. He shared the
narrow thoroughfares with sundry animals—such as
dogs, cats, pigs, and ducks—and with a motley
swatch of humanity: milkmaids, blacksmiths,
jugglers, sailors, chimney sweeps, wheelwrights,
magicians, stool-makers, government spies,
perfumed ladies, bejeweled gentlemen—and, on
occasion, perhaps even the queen herself traveling
with an entourage of carriages. Here and there he
would cross paths with a prince or a pickpocket—or
push through a crowd gathered at a gallows for a
hanging. From time to time, he would step around
horse dung, a pile of ashes from last night’s
supper fire, or, in years of plague, a wagon
loading corpses.
The chief city official was the lord mayor,
elected each year on Michaelmas Day (September 29)
by a body known as Common Hall. This body
consisted of members of livery companies, such as
clothworkers, drapers, fish merchants, goldsmiths,
grocers, haberdashers, ironmongers, mercers
(dealers in textiles and dry goods), salters,
skinners, and vintners. Sheriffs kept the peace,
assisted by constables in sections of the city
known as parishes. In each parish, citizens helped
the constable maintain order by patrolling
neighborhoods at night.

Shakespeare went to London to make
his mark as a writer and actor, traveling back and
forth between the city and the town of his birth,
Stratford, about 90 miles to the northwest. The
trip probably took two to four days by horseback
or wagon along roads shared by cadgers, robbers,
messengers, itinerant merchants, minstrels,
farmers, and soldiers marching to or from service.
Over the years, he rented lodging in various parts
of London, usually not far from the Thames, the
great river that rose in the Cotswold Hills in
England’s western Midlands and snaked its way more
than 200 miles southeastward to London and the
sea.

The
river was a vital artery in the city’s life,
carrying rowboats, barges, and sailing ships on
missions of commerce. After rainstorms, the river
carried away human excrement and rotting food
washing in from ditches, dung piles, cesspits, and
streams. (Citizens emptied chamber pots into
cesspits or ditches, or simply threw the contents
out of windows or doors or into a stream crossing
their property. They emptied containers from
outdoor toilets the same way.)The river divided Greater London into
northern and southern sections. Shakespeare lodged
in more than half-a-dozen dwellings on both sides
of the Thames in districts that included
Bishopsgate, in the northern section, and
Southwark, in the southern section.

London
Bridge, constructed between 1176 and 1209, was the
only causeway connecting the northern and southern
sections, although boats were available to ferry
travelers across the river. Shops on which
dwellings were built lined both sides of the
bridge. Above the traffic lane in the middle were
passageways (resembling overpasses above modern
highways) connecting buildings on one side of the
bridge with those on the other. When approaching
the wondrous span, Shakespeare would see a strange
and frightening sight: the impaled heads of
traitors atop an entranceway as a reminder to
citizens that although they could cross the bridge
they could not cross the royal government.

In Southwark, Shakespeare staged
plays at the Globe Theatre, built in 1599 west of
London Bridge in an area known as Bankside. The
Globe was not the first playhouse in Southwark.
Others constructed there before it were the
Newington Butts Playhouse (1580), the Rose (circa
1587), and the Swan (1595).

Southwark
was wild and raucous—a haven for drunks,
prostitutes, con men, gamblers, and thieves. There
were scores of inns and taverns. One was The
Tabard Inn, made famous in the prologue of
Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. There
were also bloodsport rings and arenas, where
spectators paid to see cockfighting or snarling
dogs attack chained bears or bulls. Queen
Elizabeth was among the aficionados of bearbaiting
and bullbaiting, as these brutal divertissements
were called.

Shakespeare apparently passed no
small portion of his time in taverns, as
historical records and scenes in his plays
suggest. There, he made the acquaintance of other
playwrights, poets, and actors, all noted for
their wit and learning. This brotherhood of ale
and assonance included Christopher
Marlowe, Ben
Jonson, George
Peele, Thomas
Nashe, Thomas
Watson, Robert
Greene, Thomas
Lodge, and Edward
Alleyn. They were a sometimes rowdy
coterie. Jonson, for example, had been
accused of murder after dueling to the death with
an actor; he was exonerated. Marlowe and Watson
had also been accused of murder, notes Stephen
Greenblatt in his book Will in the World.

Watson . . . intervened in a street
brawl between Marlowe and an innkeeper’s son
named William Bradley. The brawl, on Hog Lane,
near the Theatre [playhouse] and the Curtain
[playhouse], ended with Watson’s sword stuck six
inches into Bradley’s chest. Watson and Marlowe
were both arrested on suspicion of murder but
were eventually released, on grounds of
self-defense. (201)

Marlowe,
an extraordinarily gifted writer, died in a brawl
at an inn, the Eleanor Bull house, in the London
suburb of Deptford after suffering a dagger wound
in or above his right eye. He was only 29.

Greene,
a popular poet and playwright, was well educated,
having obtained degrees at Oxford and Cambridge.
However, he, too, was a rowdy fellow, known
especially for overindulging in drink and food and
keeping company with thieves, swindlers, and
gamblers.

Alleyn,
an exceptionally talented actor, was also an
exceptionally unscrupulous investor—at least by
modern standards—for he was a part owner of a
bearbaiting enterprise. Shakespeare,
of course, drew upon the lifestyle and social
environment of all these men to shape the
characters in his plays. He also borrowed plot
lines and themes from their literary works.
However, he generally did not imitate their
reckless and dissolute behavior.

Besides members of the threatre
community, Shakespeare also made the acquaintance
of high and mighty courtiers, perhaps the better
to promote himself and his writing. For
Shakespeare was, after all, a businessman with a
commodity to sell: literature. Among his noble
acquaintances was Henry Wriothesley, the Third
Earl of Southampton, a patron of writers and a
court favorite of Queen Elizabeth. Shakespeare
dedicated two long poems, The Rape of Lucrece
and Venus and Adonis, to Wriothesley.

In
1602, the year before the death of Elizabeth and
the accession of King James I, Shakespeare began
lodging with Christopher and Mary Mountjoy, French
Huguenots who lived north of the river in a
section of London known as Cripplegate. Their home
was on the corner of Silver Street and Monkwell
Street (also known to local denizens as Mugwell or
Muggle Street). Mr. Mountjoy, a London resident
since 1572, made hats and wigs. At the Mountjoy
residence, Shakespeare wrote with a quill dipped
in ink and kept account of his money interests,
namely a share in the ownership and the proceeds
of the Globe and whatever other enterprises coaxed
jingle from his pockets. He also rehearsed parts
he performed in his own plays and the plays of
others.

After his plays earned him widespread
acclaim, he even staged them before Queen
Elizabeth at the royal residence, Whitehall
Palace. Falstaff, the bumbling braggart in Henry
IV, Parts I and II, was a favorite character
of hers. A popular but undocumented story
maintains that Shakespeare wrote his play The
Merry Wives of Windsor, in which Falstaff is
the central character, expressly for the queen.

When
Shakespeare ventured through the city on a typical
morning, a goodly portion of the population—like
the ever-tippling Falstaff in Henry IV Part I
and Henry IV Part II—was a bit
schnockered, for ale and wine were more plentiful
than potable water, available mostly from springs
and wells in the open country crowding up against
the city. Merry England was so named for a reason.

No doubt Shakespeare at times walked
the streets for exercise or to allow the sights
and sounds to inspire him. There was much to
marvel at: flower gardens with marigolds, roses,
delphiniums, lilacs, and lilies; the soaring
spires, ornate facades, and stained glass of more
than 100 churches; sailing ships—including mighty,
three-masted merchant vessels heavily armed
against piracy—catching wind for trips to the
Americas or the East Indies; the smoke of myriad
coal and wood fires curling from chimneys; troops
of proud marching soldiers. At times, though, the
noises of the city—from rolling wheels, boisterous
merchants, children at play, church bells,
pounding hammers, hogs, sheep, cattle, grouchy
dogs—could be irritating. Such was the racket
after King James I acceded to the throne in 1603
that Thomas Dekker, another Elizabethan playwright
and poet, was prompted to write the following in a
pamphlet entitled “The Seven Deady Sins of
London”:

Carts and coaches make such a
thundering din as if the world ran on wheels; at
every corner men, women, and children meet in
such shoals [large groups] that posts are set up
to strengthen the houses lest with jostling with
one another they should shoulder them down.
Besides, hammers are beating in one place, tubs
hooping in another [placing of metal hoops
around tubs or barrels to hold the staves
together], pots clinking in a third,
water-tankards running at tilt in a fourth. . .
. Tradesmen, as if they were dancing galliards
[a dance in triple time], are lusty at legs and
never stand still. (Quoted in Brown 30)

Before
his trips home to Stratford, about 90 miles away,
Shakespeare probably sometimes purchased gifts for
his wife, his children, his brothers and sisters,
or other relatives. He could buy perfume, wigs,
jewelry, hats, shirts, shoes, breeches, feathers,
ruffles, ribbons, silks, tweeds, wine, drugs,
spices, toys, paper, ink, candles. Because
the city had no zoning regulations, the shops
selling these and other products stood alongside
churches, inns, homes, workshops, or stables.

One of the shopping locales
Shakespeare must have frequented was the Royal
Exchange on Threadneedle Street on the north side
of the river. It was a huge arcaded building with
banking facilities and accommodations for more
than 150 shops and thousands of businessmen and
shoppers. The building surrounded a courtyard
where 4,000 bankers and tradesmen conducted
business.

Shakespeare could probably buy almost
anything there—quills, inks, paper, and candles.
One wonders how many times he came away from that
site with the makings of a play tucked under his
arm—and the rhythms iambic pentameter dancing
through his head..

..Glossary
of Common OccupationsJobs
in Shakespeare's Time or the Times When He Set
His Plays

Actor.Man or boy who
performs in a stage play. In Shakespeare's time,
males acted both male and female parts in a
play.Acrobat.Entertainer who
performs various gymnastic stunts, such as leaps
and somersaults. Also called tumbler.Apothecary.Person who sells
drugs and herbsArmorer.Person who makes
armor for soldiersAstrologer.Person who
predicted events by "reading" the stars, the
planets, the sun, and the moonBaker.Person who
prepared bread, pastry, and other baked goodsBarber-Surgeon.Person who cuts
hair, trims beards, cleans and pulls teeth,
amputates limbs, and performs bloodlettingBard.Poet or
storytellerBarrister.Lawyer who
settles estates and handles land disputes, money
claims, etc.Bawd.Keeper of a
brothelBeadle.Minor church
official who kept order during services and
performed menial tasks; messenger for law courtsBellmaker.Maker of bellsBlacksmith.Person
who
makes horseshoes and other objects from iron
heated in a forge, then shaped, welded, or cut
with various toolsBoatman.Boat operatorBookbinder.Binder of
published manuscripts, journals, diaries, etc.Bowyer
(or Bower, Boyer).Person
who makes bows that shoot arrowsBrazier.Maker of brass
objectsBrewer.Maker of beer
and aleButcher.Person who cuts
meatCarpenter.Person who makes
and repairs items of woodCartographer.Maker of mapsChancellor.Secretary of a
person of high rankChandler.Person who makes
candles from wax or tallowChapman.Operator of a
warehouse; trader, peddler, merchantChimney
Sweep (or Sweeper).Person
who
cleans soot from chimneysClerk.Keeper of
accounts and recordsClockmaker.Person who makes
and repairs clocksClothier.Maker of fine
clothes for the well-to-doCocker.Person who
breeds, trains, and handles fighting roosters,
or cocksConstable.Officer of a
court or royal household; castle or fortress
wardenCook.Preparer of food
in a householdCooper.Person who makes
barrelsCoppersmith.Person who
makes, repairs, and repairs items of copperCordwainer.ShoemakerCrier.Person who walks
the streets ringing a bell as he shouted news
and proclamationsCurrier.Person who
prepares tanned leather by soaking, scraping,
coloring, or beating itCutler.Person who
makes, sells, sharpens, and repairs knivesDraper.Dealer in
clothes or drapesDrayer
or Drayman.Person
with a horse-drawn cart for transporting heavy
loadsDyer.Person who dyes
clothEmbroiderer.Person who uses
needlework to make designs on fabricFactor.Person who makes
business transactions for another person; agentFalconer.Person who
breeds and trains hunting falcons and hawks;
person who hunts with falcons and hawksFarrier.Blacksmith who
specializes in making horseshoesFishwife.Woman who sells
fishFletcher.Person who makes
arrowsFool.Comic figure with a quick
tongue who entertains the king, the queen, and
their guests. He is allowed to—and even
expected to—criticize anyone at court. In
Shakespeare's time, Many fools were dwarfs or
cripples, their odd appearance enhancing their
appeal and, according to prevailing beliefs,
bringing good luck to the court. Actors
William Kempe and Richard Armin became London
celebrities for their performances as fools in
Shakespeare's plays. Armin wrote a book about
fools entitled Foole Upon Foole; or Six
Sortes of Sottes.Forester.Person who
supervises the woods of a landowner. He sells
timber and guards against trespassers. Fowler.Person who hunts
and sells game birds to kitchensFranklin.Landowner in the
13th and 14th Centuries who was not of noble
birthFuller.Person who
cleanses, thickens, and fulls cloth. To full
cloth means to make it fuller by pleating or
gathering.Furbisher.Person who
polished or burnished various objectsGardener.Person skilled
at tending gardensGrocer.Person who sold
foods and general household suppliesGlazier.Person who cuts
and installs glass for windowsGlover.Maker of
glovesGoldsmith.Person who
makes, repairs and sells items of goldGravedigger.Person who digs
gravesGroom.Male servant in
a household; man or boy who tends, feeds, and
cleans (with a currycomb) horses in a stableHaberdasher.Person who sells
men's clothing Hatmaker.Person who makes
hatsHawker.Person who
breeds and trains hunting hawks; person who
hunts with hawks; falconerHerbalist.Person who
grows, sells, or studies herbs, mainly for use
as medical remedies Herald.Person who
announces official declarations, edicts, news,
etc.; carrier of messages for the crown;
arranger and announcer of jousting matches;
overseer of armorial bearings (images on
shields) Hosier.Maker of socks
and stockings (hosiery)Husbandman.FarmerInnkeeper.Person who owned
or hosted an innIronmonger.Dealer in
hardwareJeweler.Person who
makes, repairs, and sells items of jewelryJoiner.Person who makes
cabinets, furniture, interior woodwork, doors,
window sashes, and other wooden objectsJester.See FoolLatten
Maker.Maker
of thin sheets of brass or an alloy. Latten was
used to make church vessels and utensils.Laundress.Woman who washes
clothesLawyer.Person trained
in the lawLimner.Person who
paints or draws portraitsLocksmith.Person who makes
keys and installs and repairs locksLorimer.Maker of metal
parts for harnesses and other riding gearMaid.Female servant,
such as barmaid, chambermaid, milkmaid, or
housemaidMarshal.Person in charge
of a castle's or a household's horses and wagonsMattress
Maker.Maker
of mattressesMercer.Dealer in
well-made woven, knitted, and other fabrics;
some mercers specialized in a particular cloth,
such as silk or wool Midwife.Woman who
delivers babiesMilkmaid.Woman who milks
cows; dairymaid; vendor of milk Minstrel.Traveling
musician who sang or recited to the
accompaniment of an instrumentMoneylender.Person who lends
money at interestMonger.Roving merchant
who sells goods from a cart or another portable
device. Examples: fishmonger, ironmongerOstler.Operator of an
inn that rents rooms and stable space and serves
food and drinkPainter.Artist who
paints portraits, landscapes, etc.Peddler.Itinerant seller
of merchandise Pewterer.Person who makes
and repairs items of pewterPhysician.Medical doctorPlaywright.Person who
writes playsPorter.Doorkeeper,
gatekeeperPoulterer.Dealer in
poultry and other gamePrinter.Person who sets
type in a form for printing; owner of printing
businessPurser.Ship officer who
keeps financial accounts and secures valuables
for passengersReeve.Chief officer of
a town or manorRoper.Maker of ropesSalter.Person who sells
salt or salts meat, fish, and other foodSawyer.Person who saws
wood for constructionSchoolmaster.Teacher of
childrenScribe.Person who
copies manuscripts by hand and prepares
handwritten documentsSculptor.Person who
fashions artistic objects from stone, clay,
metal, and other mediaSeamstress.Woman who sews
for a livingSearcher.Person who
identifies victims of plague and quarantines
their houses Servant.Person who
carries out routine household choresShepherd.Person who herds
and watches over sheepSalter.Person who deals
in salt or salts foods such as meat and fishSheriff.Important civil
officer of a shire (county)Shipwright.Carpenter who
builds and repairs shipsShoemaker.Person who makes
and repairs shoes; cordwainerSieve
Maker.Maker
of sieves (strainers or sifters)Silversmith.Person who
makes, repairs, and sells items of silverSlater.Person who lays
slate on roofsSoapmaker.Person who makes
soapSpoonmaker.Maker of spoonsSpurrier.Maker of spursStapler.Person who sorts wool
according to its staple (the length, texture,
and quality of its fibers); buyer and
seller of wool, linen, and silkStationer.Publisher of
books. Stationers belonged to a guild (the Worshipful Company of
Stationers) which the government
established and supervised in order to guard
against the publication of subversive books or
books unduly critical of the Crown. When one
stationer acquired the rights to publish copies
of a book, the other members were bound to
respect this "copy right," preparing the way for
modern copyright laws.Stonecutter.Person who cuts,
shapes, and carves stone; stonemasonTailor.Person who makes
clothingTanner.Person turns
hides into leather by soaking it in tannin, a
chemical that prevents the skin from decayingTapster.BartenderTaverner.Person who
maintains a tavernThatcher.Person who
thatches (covers roofs with straw or other plant
material)Tinker.Traveling
handyman who repairs household items, such as
pots and pans; person who can repair almost
anything; jack-of-all trades Trader.Businessman
involved in importing and exporting various
supplies and merchandiseTranter.Peddler who
sells his wares from a horse-drawn cartTumbler.Entertainer
who
performs handsprings, somersaults, and other
feats requiring physical agilityTurner.Person who
shapes wooden objects, such as table legs, on a
lathe (a machine that holds and rotates wood
while it is pressed against an abrasive
surface) Verger.Official who
bears the symbol of authority, such as a rod or
staff, of a bishop or dean in a processionVintner.Person who makes
and sells wineWarrener.Person who
breeds or catches rabbitsWeaver.Person who makes
clothWheelwright.Person who makes
and repairs wagon, cart, and carriage wheelsWiredrawer.Person who draws
metal into wireWoodcarver.Person who
carves wood to make it decorativePage.Boy servant; boy
attending a knight or a boy in training to
become a knightPuppeteer.Person who
stages puppet showsSaddler.Maker of saddles
and bridlesSkinner.Person who
removes the skins of animals and prepares them
for sale; seller of hidesTiler.Person who
installs roof tilesWasherwoman.Woman who washes
clothes