I've decided to keep the site online for the foreseeable future as a reference for Elantra owners. If you'd like to help with costs or still believe in this resource, please use the Donate link to help out. Thank you.

So this past weekend I installed a stereo in my 2013 GT. I took some pictures along the way and will put together a guide for anyone else that wants to undertake a similar project.

First disconnect the battery. If you don't know how to do that, then stop here and drive your car to the nearest stereo shop and have them install it for you.

Second, remove the silver trim from around either side of the headunit. Start by taking a small flathead screw driver to pull the bottom edge of the trim away (see pic below). Slide your fingers under the trim starting at the edge by the gear shift. Grab the trim firmly and pull up and out to pop the clips out. It takes a fair amount of force to wiggle each one out. Just take your time and you will be fine. Work your way up the silver trim until you have it completely removed. Once removed put the trim someplace safe where it won't get scratched.

Once you have both sides of the trim removed, next is to remove the headunit and HVAC panel. There are 4 screws on each side (2 for the radio and 2 for the HVAC). See the red circles in the pic below. Take out all 8 screws and then the headunit and HVAC panel will slide out. Keep these screws organized as they are different sizes for the radio and HVAC panel.

After the screws are out, the radio and HVAC panel will slide out together. Gently wiggle the radio free of the HVAC unit and let the HVAC panel hang down while you disconnect the wires in the back of the radio. For the navigation unit there were I believe 5 different wires that had to be disconnected from the back of the radio. Once they are all disconnected set your radio aside safely so it doesn't get scratched or damaged. Pics below show removal of radio and how it separates from the HVAC panel.

Now it is time to install the line out convertor. I picked one up from the stereo shop where I got the speakers, but they all basically work the same. They tap into your speaker wires to turn the speaker signal into an RCA output which is needed to plug into the amp. I decided to tap into the rear speakers so in case I don't want the sub on, I can just fade it to the front speakers. You could do either front or rear speakers. The following is assuming a basic understanding of electronics, but you will need to first strip the foam cover back that goes over the wires to give yourself enough room to work. After that, use the following diagram to identify the wires you want to tap into. Note there are two plugs. You want Connector A. When you are determining which wires to tap into, make sure you look at the shape of the plug in the diagram to ensure you are holding the plug the same way and getting the right wires. It wasn't too hard, but if you had the plug backwards or upside down, things could get messed up. You can solder the wires together, twist together and use electrical tape, or use various wire connectors. In any case you need to connect the + and - wires on the line output convertor to the right and left + and - wires in the harness. After splicing together the four wires you can plug your RCA cables into the convertor. There is plenty of room behind the headunit to tuck the convertor back there. Personally I put it on the right side of the radio and can access it with just the trim removed from the large vent opening. This is nice if I ever want to adjust the level to the RCA's, which right now i have turned down to about half way. (sorry didn't snap pics of the convertor)

Ok, now its time to run the RCA's back to the amp in the hatch. I removed the side trim that covers the side of the center console. In order to remove this you need to remove one screw (see red circle) and then the trim just slides out. I can't recall if I actually needed to remove this piece to get access behind the glove compartment or not. I just know I had it off.

Now its time to disconnect the glove compartment so you can get access behind it. Once you disconnect it, it just hangs straight down and you have plenty of room to work. On the right side you simply pop off the loop from the little clip sticking out the side of the glove compartment (1st pic). After this is done, there are two plastic circles (one on each side) that you simply twist and wiggle out (third pic). Once you have both of these out, the glove comparment will just hang down and give you full access behind it.

You can now feed the RCA's behind the glove compartment to the right side of the car. To run the cables, I popped off the plastic trim on the front passenger door off (1st pic). I also popped off the trim by the rear passenger door. Note for the rear trim, you need to pop the back seat and fold it down to remove the screws (2nd pic). There are no screws for the front trim. Be careful with the rear trim. It is a large piece of plastc and I actually cracked the driver side in one spot by being in too much of a rush. I was able to run the cables to the back by just removing these two pieces and just pushing them up from the bottom of the trim on the pillar in between the front and back door. I didn't even look into trying to remove that as there wasn't any issue pushing the wires up from the bottom. At this point the RCA's and now back under the rear seat. I folded the back of the rear seat down a little to push the cables back to the hatch area. I left any extra wires under the rear seat.

Now its time to run the power to the amp from the battery. There are a couple different ways to get the wire from the engine bay into the car. I decided to fish the wire through the front side fender, down next to the door, and in through an extra rubber grommet that was on the door. In order to get the wire into the car I pulled the grommet out and put a hole in the center to feed the power cable through. After this, I had to remove the panel behind the hood release. There was one screw on the hood release that needed to be removed and then the plastic panel came right off. (1st pic below). Behind this plastic panel was a rubber covering that was directly in line with the rubber grommet that i removed. I poked a hole in the cover and fed a wire hanger through this hole and out the hole where the rubber grommet was. I wrapped the wire hanger around the power cable and pulled it into the car. After pulling it snug, I put the rubber grommet back in place. I then fed the power cable through the car the same way I ran the RCA cables, just on the driver side instead of the passenger side.

For the amp remote turn on, I grabbed power from the auxiliary plug in the trunk area. To get to the plug there were two bolts to be removed (1st pic) and then the trim popped right off. To get to the bolts, just take a small flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic cover over the bolt. The wires going into the plug were black (ground) and orange (12v) so I spliced into the orange wire. I then replaced the trim and attached the amp ground wire behind the plastic trim to one of the bolts I was putting back in. So now we have the RCA's, power cable, remote turn on and ground all attached and in the hatch area.

Now its time to hook up all the wires to the amp, run speaker wires to connect the amp to the sub, reattach the battery and test everything out. After you have made sure that everything works and are happy with the settings, put the car back together, and sit back and enjoy the tunes

Here are some install pics. The first pic is with the amp just sitting in the trunk. The second pic is showing the under storage compartment that is a perfect fit for the amp and the third is what it looks like with the amp "hidden" in the storage compartment. Note, I didn't get all the wires hidden yet as I am testing out whether the amp will overheat in this enclosed area. If it does, then I will figure out another place to put the amp, or get a computer fan as was recommended to keep the amp cool. In any case, I hope this helps some of you!

Ok, for some reason I can't get onto Hyundai's tech site to download the wiring diagram for the 2013 GT. I've tried logging in under my username and apparently I don't remember the password. I tried sending myself an email with the p/w and I get an error message. Then I tried to create a new account and got an error message with that. My dash is ripped apart and I plan to continue my install tomorrow. Please, if anyone has an account can you see if you can download the wiring diagram for the 2013 GT and post the images here??? I am trying to install a line out convertor as well as tap into the power line for my amp remote turn on wire. Any help would be much appreciated!

I would like to install an aftermarket deck in my elantra but was wondering what I need, its the single din and haven't found a dash install kit and what about a harness I have found many but don't know which one I need, any help

In my previous Elantra, I disabled the clutch interlock/inhibitor switch by putting a jumper across the connector. I do this because there are times when I want to be able to start the car from the outside, such as when I'm working on it.

I disconnected the switch on my 2012 Touring and installed a jumper, but the car wouldn't start (the starter doesn't engage, just as it wouldn't if the clutch wasn't depressed). I removed the jumper and reconnected the switch and it still won't start! I can't find anything wrong with it other than it just refuses to start. There are only two wires for the clutch switch. There is also a four-wire brake switch that merges into the same harness, but the brake lights work properly, so that switch must be working (I don't recall pressing the brake being required to start the car anyway). There is a second clutch switch (probably for the cruise control), but that one isn't in question, though I did make sure that it was solidly connected.

As a last resort, I disconnected the battery to do a complete reset of everything, in case this was some kind of computer issue. That didn't help, either.

Does anyone have any ideas? I need to be able to get to work tomorrow!

Apologies in advance if this has been answered already elsewhere and I failed to find it or if I've put this topic on the wrong board.

I recently installed a chinese aftermarket stereo in my Elantra GT. Nearly everything worked out of the box (with more than a little head scratching due to a lack of understandable documentation) save for the factory hands-free microphone. Looking at a wiring diagram I found on this forum and puzzling out what goes where in the stereo I've discovered that whichever chinese company made the wiring harness supplied for the stereo did not place pins for the OEM microphone. I could cut the wire from the OEM cable but I'd really rather to be able to re-install the original stereo if I ever want to. To that end, I need to purchase the crimpable pins which go into the connector used in the wiring harness so I can create my own patch cable. I was hoping someone here would know where I could look or at least what they're called so that I can do an effective search for a supplier.

I've highlighted the type of pins I need in the picture below; any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys, i wanted to change my bulbs to hid too. So far, the 1st in the list is the OPT7 Blitz 5000kI see there's the Bolts too, which the only difference is that is 55w, right?And wnated to know if you really don't need the relays. Thanks

[attachment=5332:Photo_0201.jpg]Hello guys,how can I make this thing light when the door is open?I mean,I know that I have to put a led strip in there etc but my problem is how should I route the cable to power this on.

New GT owner here - super excited! I need some help though. After playing with the touchscreen a little more on the way home after purchase, I noticed the touchscreen to be a little flaky. It doesn't always seems to respond when I push a button on the screen, or sometimes it thinks I've pushed a different button altogether. Does it need to be calibrated somehow? Is that even possible? Previous owner must have taken the owners manual so I can't look anything up there. Thanks for the help!

I own a 2014 Elantra GT 5 door. I want to :1. Add a subwoofer (10" or 12")2. Replace the rear speakers (maybe)

The OEM receiver has no RCA (also called low voltage) output. It only has high voltage or speaker level output. To add a subwoofer, you need a Line Output Converter (LOC) or an amp that has High Voltage or Speaker Level inputs. I've read that amps with speaker level inputs is the better of the two.I've never done anything involving speaker level inputs before. Has anyone done this before and what do you think of the sound quality. I turn my music up louder than the average user and would hate to have distortion or noise after installation.

Hello.Just bought a 2014 Elantra GT GLS. Traded in my 2012 Touring. I just couldn't resist and the timing was right. I got $3000 off the sticker price.

Anyway, I'm just going through a lot of the new features and one thing I can't figure out has to do with the bluetooth phone feature. I have the phone paired, and the calls do work. In fact, I started a call at home and walked to my car and it offered to take over the call for me... sweet!

However, I can't figure out why the phone doesn't activate if the stereo isn't on. It doesn't seem right to me. Hitting the "Phone" button on the dash or the call/listen button on the steering wheel does nothing until I turn on the music first.

Am I missing something?

P.S. - love the handling, the panorama roof, the "electric" chair. Kind of bummed on the lack of compartments compared to previous Elantras though.

Still lovin' my new gt but gotta improve the horn when locking. My wife makes a sour face whenever I double click the lock. Any suggestions? Replace the factory or add a second that would make it dual tone?

Eta: experimenting - horn is different when double click the key fob. The actual horn sounds ok. The lock sound is weak. Maybe I can tap the lock sound to the main horn

First time posting. I have a clarion 360 x4 amp installed in my 2010 Elantra Touring. The thing is that I cannot have a sub box in the car at all and in looking for a good midbass out of 6.5 speakers. Any help would be great!

Hey guys just wondering if someone could help me out with a schematic, I want to install a rear hatch release button inside the car but need a schematic for the one that is located on the car now, im hoping to find a connecter inside the car to tap into it there. Thanks

Hey-There's many times I pull into the garage and want to finish listening to a song on the radio. In my convertible (with keyless start), it retains power to the radio and some other features for a short time after putting the car in park and turning off the ignition. Opening the door shuts everything off. In the Elantra (also with keyless start feature), doing the same only leaves power to the windows for a short time. The radio turns off when in park and you turn off the ignition. However, if you leave the car in drive or reverse and turn it off, the radio will continue to play. It automatically goes to accessory mode, letting the music play. You do have to remember to cycle thru "on" and then off when done. It's a handy thing and there's no interruption in the music.

I am having a small issue with my Korean Market I30 led foglight wich were installed on my canadian GT

everything is wired correctly (as I can see) but i am having a small issue, and here it is

The led themselves, alone are lighting up no problem no issue whatsoever !but the thing is when i flick the foglight switch to ON, the driver side led and fog are lit while the passenger side has everything turned off, if I nflick the switch off, the led comes back on both sides.I checked the LED power lead everything is good, even if i unplug it the issue remainsI checked the 880 halogen bulb power lead, even when unplugged the problem remainscould it be a ground issue ?

ps the wiring is done with a Blazer foglight wiring kit and a bosch relay

Well today after work I started my car and there was a horizontal line across my radio/navigation screen (that's not supposed to be there)! I've read a couple other folks having a similar issue. Looks like a visit to the dealership is in my future!

The other day my radio was playing XM and it turned off and then back on, all by itself. I thought it might have something to do with XM getting a subscription update.

Today, I was listing to normal radio and used the voice system to make a call on my cell. As it was in progress of making the call, it did the same thing. It turned off and back on all by itself. I hadn't hit any bumps or anything. I have some sort of audio system problem.

On top of that ... I am not sure if it is related or not but every time my wife went to unlock the car to use the car, I got a Bluelink alarm alert. This happened twice but the alarm didn't go off and the car never made a sound. Since the alarm button is on the underside of the unlock button, I suspect this might be something to with my wife and not the car. I switched keys with her and waiting to see if it happens again. If an error on her part, you think the car alarm would have sounded..

I am starting to lose faith in my new GT... I love the mileage and ride but the build quality isn't anything near my old Tucson. I guess I am going to get my first test of the GT warrantee.

So I am going through the arduous process of determining what my first mod will be to my GT. I have considered a CAI and have also considered adding a little bass to the stock stereo. I think the stock speakers sound pretty decent, so adding something in the trunk to add a little bass would cover anything I could possibly need from the stereo end. The only issue is I don't want to take up the entire trunk space in the hatch. Basically that brings me to either using a shallow mount enclosure or a single sub enclosure and just keeping it on one side of the trunk. I like the idea with a shallow mount enclsure, except I have never used one, nor even heard one in person before. I have had several different types and levels of systems in the past so I am looking for something that sounds good at normal volume, yet won't disappoint if I crank it up a bit. Has anyone used a shallow mount enclosure and if so what have been your opinions and how have they compared to a normal sub enclosure?

To give you a brief run down, some of the speaker systems I have run in the past are 3 MTX 6000 10" subs in a loaded enclosure, 2 MTX 12" 6000 subs (after one of the 10" ones blew) in a loaded enclosure, 2 12" dual subs in a bandpass box, 1 12" sub in a basic sealed enclosure (can't recall the sub brand but it was a cheap system), and 1 12" Kicker Solo-baric L5 in a sealed enclosure.

I don't need anything that will set off car alarms anymore, but I do want it to sound good. Also, I would like the setup to look nice.

One that I liked is this Soundstream shallow mount sub. The box certainly has a very unique look to it and it fits the bill in regards to price and size. But I have never used Soundstream subs so I don't know how well they are built, and as mentioned I have never used a shallow mount box, so I am a little nervous that the bass won't sound quite like what I'm expecting/hoping for. Feel free to throw out any recommendations for either shallow mount or single sub enclosure systems that you like. I would not be opposed to an amplified enclosure either as long as it sounds good.

I bought my Elantra Touring SE back in April. It has about 13K miles on it.

Twice within the last couple months I managed to drain my batter completely and required a jump start after I spent about 20 mins sitting on a parking lot with my engine turned off and my lights and stereo on. Does it mean they put lousy batteries into new cars and I need to replace it with a better one? Or is this a sign of something more serious?

I also noticed something else which is probably unrelated. I have a flash plugged into the USB port. Sometimes I would have my radio on and it would suddenly switch to the USB without me pressing any buttons. If I switch back, it jumps to USB again. It does not always happen but every time it starts happening I have to pull the flash out. I think it started happening right when it got colder but this might a coincidence. I tried another flash and it happened to that flash too. Does this mean my stereo is up for (warranty) repair?

I am wondering if I could pick your brains aout my MY10 Elantra Touring wiring harness. I am currently trying to locate a safe out of sight connection point for tapping into the speaker wire. I know there is wiring harness connection at the lower b-pillars on the floor...... is there anywhere else I could tap into for a sound splice for my subs aqnd what color am I looking for to tap into?

For about a month now we've been encountering electrical issues with our 2010 Touring.

First it was the radio and clock resetting over night.Next it was the manual climate controls going on the fritz. The unit worked...but the buttons and settings were not working in the combinations like they should have been.Last week the EPS light was on and the power steering didn't start up in the morning each of the first three times the car was started. It started the fourth time and I was able to drive the car to the dealership.Two days after that the car didn't start in the morning. Turned the key and nothing. All lights went out and the car was dead. Started with a boost...but didn't start again that weekend.

During this span I've had both the radio and A/C controls replaced at no cost under warranty.The EPS is set to be replaced at no cost on Wednesday.Today I took the car back in as last night the car needed another boost and the new clock and A/C controls we back to being reset and not working properly.

I've been told each time that I get the car to the dealership that they "are unable to replicate the problem". Literally, I've heard this 4 or 5 times.Today on the phone the guy at the service counter at least acknowledged that it was probably an electrical issue...not a component problem as they originally thought. Really?! THANKS!

I'm waiting to hear back from the dealership. I'm supposed to pick up the car in an hour...but I've told them I'd be more happy with a loaner and leaving the car with them to further diagnose the underlying problems.

Has anyone else had issues similar to this?If so, how was the situation rectified?What was the underlying problem?

I have a brand new 2012 Elantra Touring and was super excited to finally have an input jack for our Ipod & MP3 players. Can anyone give me some tips on how it works? I'm a little confused.

First of all it's a mini USB port, not a type A. Which means I need and extra adaptor for any player I own which all have type A outputs. Ok.. so we got an adaptor. But it seems whenever we plug in our Ipod or our MP3 player the controls on the player don't work and on the stereo the only way to navigate the music is to skip tracks ONE AT A TIME. Is this really how it's supposed to work? My parents just bought an brand new Honda Civic and you can put any USB key into the stereo and choose folders. It's very slick.

I'm on the verge of giving up and filling my car with CDs so I can actually find the songs I want to hear. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, before I call the dealer and have them swap out my BRAND NEW radio in my BRAND NEW car:

I cannot get the "tuner" button to work and bring up the bass/treble/fade/left-right dialogues. The manual says to push the tuner button and those commands will appear, but I can push it til the cows come home and nothing appears. This is the case whether it's on am/fm/or xm.

Is there some secret trick that I don't understand, or is it defective?

Anyone know of an easy spot to get a few small wires through the firewall? I'm looking to run a power and ground line from a brake controller under the dash to the battery, but this could also apply to someone looking to run power lines for audio equipment or fog lights.