One of the historic buildings is photographed at Cavallo Point, a new 142-room lodge at Fort Baker at the north end of the Golden Gate Bridge, Saturday, May 3, 2008. This building houses the Farley bar, and Murray Circle Restaurant.
Thor Swift For The San Francisco Chronicle
Ran on: 01-13-2011
Murray Circle occupies part of this historic building at Fort Baker.

As I walked past the porch at Murray Circle, formerly the enlisted men's barracks at Fort Baker in Sausalito, I flashed on a sepia photograph I have at home.

It's from the early 20th century and captures a group of privileged travelers bundled in blankets on deck chairs on a cruise ship, with uniformed stewards standing over them with pots of tea. At Fort Baker, the porch resembles a cruise ship deck. Diners have similar blankets and can look out over the parade grounds, the bay and both spires of the Golden Gate Bridge.

That's not the only thing that feels like a time machine at Murray Circle. The rich tin ceiling, brick walls and fireplaces have been restored and dressed up, but the entire aura is retro and wonderful.

Yet, the food under opening chef Joseph Humphrey was as modern as you could get. Earlier this year he left and was replaced by Justin Everett with the idea that the food and atmosphere would adhere to the 21st century's more casual approach.

This slight shift is apparent from the time diners sit down at the wood tables, formerly covered with white tablecloths. A jar of rosemary scented pistachios replaces the more intricate chef-prepared amuse bouche.

Still, the presentations are far from casual; neither are the prices; for main courses, they range from $24 for a roasted maitake mushroom vegetarian dish to $36 for a New York steak. Everett has also retained a five-course tasting menu ($75; additional $45 for wine pairings).

Everett, previously the executive chef at El Dorado Kitchen in Sonoma, does his best to add a few twists to even familiar classics. The bouillabaisse appetizer ($14) is served in a teardrop-shape bowl filled with squid, mussels, clams, shrimp, beans and vegetables, over which a waiter pours in the brick-colored chorizo-scented seafood broth. It's accompanied by toast smeared with a mildly spicy rouille.

It's a beautiful combination that brings the bay to the dining room - a warren of home-like rooms, each with a fireplace that chases the evening chill.

Steak tartare ($15), topped with a raw egg yolk, comes molded onto a brioche bun; the meat is exceptional but the bun is doughy. I had a similar problem with the duck pastrami ($6), tender, rosy slices of cured breast meat with a whole-seed mustard, a knob of sauerkraut, and fingers of rye toast that tasted stale. Everett also makes fennel sausage ($6), bresaola with pickled vegetables ($8) and other charcuterie.

The toast seemed fresh on the duck liver mousse crouton that accompanied the main course: duck breast a la plancha ($28), which also included a cannelloni filled with duck meat. The nicely cooked breast was salty and crusty outside but the cannelloni shell was flabby and the meat had a leftover flavor that belied the freshness of the breast.

I also appreciated the quality of the halibut ($29) topped with a crunchy kohlrabi salad bathed in a prosciutto vinaigrette, although I question pairing it with a thick, dark sauce, so sweet it would overpower mutton.

At dessert I couldn't resist the peanut butter souffle ($9) that had the intensity of what you'd find in a jar, served with peanut caramel ice cream and caramelized fruit on a rectangle of banana bread. Other offerings include praline chibouste with smoked cherries and Riesling granite that melted too soon and didn't add much to the mix.

While the food at Murray Circle might not reach the heights it once did, the service has continued to improve; the waiters are there when you need one, and leave you to contemplate the view outside the windows when you don't. Again it conjures up thoughts of a gentler time when diners were treated like special guests. At Murray Circle, if feels as if the past has been artistically woven into the present.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.