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Monday, February 18, 2008

Oooops I Did It Again!

Purchased from Emmaonesock - here is the description ~ From Jones NY, this is a lovely knit, very drapey and silky with 2-way stretch, and the print is beautiful medallion design with a double border (each border is about 4" wide). The colors are paprika (18-1447), a super-dark espresso-black, with ivory highlights. Lighter weight, opaque, great stretch recovery, nylon/lycra blend, 57" wide.

Changes to Pattern:

I added a bowtie to the neckline of the tank top. I also used a knit fabric for this pattern which was originally drafted for a woven fabric.

Backstory:

This is my FAVORITE tank top pattern that I have made a gazillion times in all types of fabrications. I have made it from a wool/cashmere/lycra blend, a silk duppioni, linen, and several smooth silk fabrics in solids and prints. This pattern is such a hardworking piece in my wardrobe because it goes so well with my suited looks as well as my business casual ones.

I know that blouses are back and are all the rave right now but I need a top that doesn't tuck in yet still gives me a professional appearance. This tank top pattern and subsequent renditions fit my wardrobing needs perfectly.

For this tank, the Fall 2007 Sew Stylish Magazine that featured Simplicity 3631 on its cover, influenced the tie decision. The instructions in the magazine on how to add a tie to a top made from the dress pattern, is the inspiration for this garment. This inspiration has shown up in my sewing before, when I made this dress using the instructions in the Sew Stylish issue.

Construction Details:

First to construct the tie, I did not use the measurements provided in the article. I knew that I wanted the tie to be comprised of just the border tile print so I carefully cut it out. However, since I was squeezing two garments out of three yards of fabric and the pieces were cut on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the border print, I had to piece together leftover sections to get enough length for the tie. Thank goodness it is a busy print so that you can't see where the piecing is.

The other important construction tidbit is that when the tie is first sewn to the neckline of the tank, I added a flexible twill tape that Nancy's Notions sells to the seamline. This was done for two reasons - to provide stability to the neckline and to stop it from stretching during wearing. I have to admit that I was a little concerned after I applied it because I wanted to make sure that the top still went over my head easily and it did!

There is one other construction detail to note in this top. The original SW Mission Tank has a rounded neckline. As instructed in the Sew Stylish Magazine an alteration needs to be made to the neckline to lengthen it before adding the tie. I did this by folding down 1" at the center front and gradually folding less until it got to the front curve. Since a picture is worth a 1000 words, I will include one...

Otherwise the tie was applied using the Sew Stylish directions. Finally, I know most sewists apply Steam A Seam 2 to the hems of their knit garments but my preference is stitch witchery. Maybe its because I buy a lighter version of it from Steinlauf & Stoller (on a 50 yard roll) that doesn't give that heavy, hard appearance to the hem that the packaged version of stitch witchery does. Or maybe I've just gotten use to it...but that is what I use to seal the hems closed before I topstitch them.

I love the fit on this top and I especially love the funky print. It is not really a "corporate" type print but it will work well on Casual Fridays or down time work days. However, it is me and I'm thrilled to have finally been able to make a "truly me" piece for my work wardrobe.