3D GRAIN ILLUMINATOR

$ 24.99

NOTE: This is a limited run handmade product that requires special processes. The last batch sold out in one day. If you would like to be notified when the next batch finishes please send us an email and when the next batch is done cooking we will notify you.

3D is a thick handmade resin. Small boutique batches are produced using the most advanced Pine Rosin methods. There numerous uses for 3D - fine woodworking, luthiers, artists, crafts... Usually, the product is diluted with solvent or added to Bio Poly Natural for fine interior woodwork. It can be used pure as well in certain instances.

3D is based on one of the first synthetic resins, Lime Rosin. This is an old method of carefully cooking pine rosin with lime (calcium hydroxide) at varying amounts to reduce acid levels and obtain a harder, more water resistant finish. Over time it was found that zinc oxide achieved an even better result than lime (Zinc Resinate). This technology has continued to advance. 3D has evolved beyond both of these methods and is the current state of the art of pine rosin technology in wood finish.

Our pine rosin is obtained mostly from Georgia pine trees. Tree roots are waste by products left over from the paper making industry. That root stock is rich with rosin making material and is used to obtain the raw material used to make our pine rosin. We can also get it from the living tree but when there is a waste by product we prefer that for sustainability purposes.

3D Pure Pine Resin is a specially modified rosin. Pine rosin can be modified with glycerol to create a "gum rosin" such as what is used in chewing gum. 3D uses a similar but much stronger special process that results in the best pine rosin made to date. (Best for wood. Too tough for chewing gum!)

To further enhance durability 3D undergoes special cooking processes. The best solvent to use is Pure Citrus Solvent. We find this solvent is better than turpentine (see solvent notes below on turpentine). The final result is high quality liquid pine rosin; a true beauty in wood that has a vibrant, living quality! The wood cell compatibility and grain illuminating qualities are quite appealing in wood. It rubs in fast and multiple coats can be layered up to produce and perfect gloss or adjusted to low satin sheen.

LEAN TO FAT: A simple way to understand pine rosin mixes is the lean to fat method of mixing. Historically, fine instrument makers would introduce the hardest most brittle mix into the wood first, since the wood fiber cell will naturally rectify any brittleness issues and produce a more resonant sound. Softer oils are introduced by scaling up in stages

This is a general "Lean to Fat" representation actual formulations are determined by the artisan; considerations include final intended use, wood type, porosity, density, moisture content, sanding grade, conditioning level, drying methods... It can get extensive. Stradivarius had a technique that remains elusive to this day despite the fact that scientists can dissect the ingredients used in his instruments.

PRACTICAL MIXES: For artistic pieces, we use it pure. Linseed Oil is traditionally added going from lean to fat for wooden instrument varnishes. For areas that will see some traffic, wear and water, we add 2 oz of Bio Poly Natural to a pint of 3D. This can be built up quickly to a french polish type sheen by rubbing on multiple coats. When we want to increase the chatoyance and speed dry time of Bio Poly Natural or Rainforest Sealer then we add a pint of 3D to a gallon of those products before use.

WARM MIXES: Warming the mixture reduces the viscosity and allows for the blending of waxes. For highly figured wood pieces that we want to increase the smooth feel and water repellency we warm 1 part Looking Glass Beeswax Polish to 1 part 3D Pure Pine Resin. This warm mix is applied with gloves to warm wood. 150F is generally sufficient. This is not as hot as boiling pasta but it's very warm. For some people it's hot enough to burn the skin so please use appropriate practices when working with hot material. Don't overheat or burn.

WOOD ROASTING: Although "wood roasting" is gaining popularity we don't use 3D for that. Looking Glass Beeswax Polish is probably the best wood finish to use for wood roasting interior wood and Rainforest Sealer for roasting exterior wood. Special Linseed Oil is also of value for wood roasting since it is an affordable way to cook a larger amount of wood.

THEORETICAL COVERAGE: 40-100 sft per Pint.

Use pure or mixed with one of our other rubbing oils. Enhances wood grain. Easy to use. Wipe on. Wipe Off. Repeat. Builds to a french polish type sheen quickly. An essential compliment to any fine wood finishing shop. Wood Turners will rejoice! Instrument makers develop their own uses and formulas starting with 3D Pure Pine Resin.

DILUTION: Should be taken on a case by case basis. Can be diluted up to a 1:1 ratio (1 pint Solvent to 1 pint 3D). Add Corn Solvent for a faster dry. Add Pure Citrus Solvent for a more moderate dry and deeper penetration. 2-4 oz per pint of solvent is the most common dilution for fine wood working.

APPLICATION: Rubbing Oil approach. Wipe on. Wipe off. If a film is desired it should be built up using multiple thin wipings in a french polish manner. Adding a slight amount of Bio Poly NT will increase strength of the film.

TOPCOATING: The most natural and common top coat over 3D is LOOKING GLASS BEESWAX POLISH. It is hard to equal the beauty provided by these products used together, especially if a professional sanding schedule is employed. For a high gloss topcoat use MOUNTAIN. For a semi gloss- use MOUNTAIN for the first coat and then a coat of NANOTECH to lower the sheen. For a satin sheen- Use MOUNTAIN first coat, NANOTECH second coat, Aqualine Satin third coat.

TOPCOAT NOTE: If applying a film over 3D then Mountain must be the intermediary coat. If a semi gloss is desired, then NanoTech can be applied. If a satin sheen is desired then Aqualine Satin can be applied. In that order only. (Fine woodworkers sometimes use steel wool on Mountain to create a satin sheen)

MORE INFO...SOLVENTS: Turpentine is solvent derived mainly from pine trees, some are drained, some are cut. It's flammability, odor and solvency strength make it less effective for our work. There are petrochemical substitutes passed off as some variation of Turpentine but those aren't even considered an option. Our Pure Citrus Solvent is d-limonene, a common food additive. We use a pure version of this natural solvent, don't be fooled by phony mineral spirits versions. It's great, dries fast, has stronger solvency than mineral spirits and turpentine.

When we need a very strong solvent we use Corn Solvent, which is a stronger, faster evaporating solvent that is also listed on [CFR §180.950 Tolerance exemptions for minimal risk active and inert ingredients.]It's primary components use in food is usually small amounts. It is also used as an exempt pesticide ingredient in organic farming. When used full strength, our Corn Solvent is as strong a solvent as we ever need. Mineral Spirits, Naptha, Alcohol, Xylene, Toluene, Odorless Mineral Spirits are never needed in our work.

CLEAN UP - Pure Citrus Solvent for the first rinse. Earth Clean and water thereafter. The invention of Earth Clean has eliminated our need to ever use regular petrochemical solvent to clean up oil based coatings. We use Earth Clean and water which is soooo much better in many ways. If a real nice brush needs some special attention we use pure Earth Clean or sometimes Pure Citrus Solvent. A nice brush, like Badger Hair deserves a little extra care.

FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION COVERAGE: Product meets requirements for use under the following section of Title 21 (Food and Drug) of the Code of Federal Regulations: §175.300 Resinous and Polymeric Coatings. §178.3870 Rosins and rosin derivatives. When used according to the regulations and any limitation that may apply. Not intended for use in food.