update:
switched wiring
-white/purple and red/ black are now switched power (ignition and start)
-messed around with green relays, orange grounds. (specifically cut orange wire before ecu ground and cut orange wire to the relay that didn't click so it is no longer grounded
removed cas again
-unplugged ignitor and listened for injectors
-Only half the injectors made noise.
it is worth noting I started the car on starting fluid so i haven't addressed the ignition.

Hello forum members,
Im trying to start my rb20 for the first time but it won't fire. It ran briefly with the help of starting fluid which leads me to believe the injectors are not working. I have plenty of fuel pressure at the rail and i have removed the cas sensor and have heard the coil spark. I tried grounding the 2 green fuses with the orange wires near the ecu, which other forums have said might be the solution ( http://forums.nicoclub.com/red-ecu-light-stays-on-t299889.html ). This link posted notes that the rb20 white/purple wire should be switched power but mine is constant and pat1's rb20 guide says it needs constant. Additionally both injector wires read 12v even when the car is off. The ecu reads 55 code so "all is fine". Im losing my mind

Hello forum members,
I have successfully mounted a rb20 into my 77 280z but the stock trans mount to the body is not working. The alignment of the crossmember is not similar to stock and I believe it to be because the trans is too far back. Additionally, the bolts do not thread in all the way. it is worth noting the trans bushing is busted and has been fabbed into place. Any suggestions or help, please throw it out there. Thanks for your time.
-Andrew