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Only a few things done today and really more just for fit up and prepping for paint. As I have mentioned before, I will be handing Star Mobile One off to the painter to complete the majority of the rest of the work...all body panel fit-up, prepping & painting. So part of what I wanted to start doing is just dry fit some components and locate and install (temporarily) the hardware, in hopes of making it just a bit easier on the final install and to familiarize the painter with what hardware goes where (although Kory is the painter that Bill (WRP) used on his Green 33, so I am pretty confident there shouldn't be too many hiccups. So here are just a few pics of the work from today, again nothing has been installed permanently today or in the correct order for that matter ...

Just a couple additional comments, I did opt for Tim Whittaker's (KVC) bushing package for the Trunk, Hood and the Door Hinges. I believe I have them installed correctly now (the washers that is), but I have an email in to Tim to confirm.

The top (2) bolts on the Hinge Brackets are (were) extremely difficult for me to get in place due to the slanted geometry of the Brackets, so I ended up shaving the heads down a bit, so they would clear a little bit better. Only the top (2) required this and even then it was still bit of a challenge (and this was a dry fit, can't imagine trying to install with doors in place, etc).

Thanks so much for pulling off the boot. Unfortunately, the mystery remains. Yours (exact same clip part number and most likely steering rack) appear to be bottoming out on something that mine isn't and it's driving me crazy. Mine are just getting sucked deep into the rack. Do you know on what yours are bottoming out on?

I edited one of your pictures to hopefully show what I'm talking about....

I am not technically savy with regards to the inner workings of the steering rack, but it appears on mine there is a plastic or rubber "tri-fan" insert that that seems to be retained by the outside slots in the tube and this is what is keeping my spacers from going any further. It looks like on yours that that piece is either not there or has been pushed further down the tube past where the slots would retain it. Sorry it is very difficult to get a good pic of this, but I hope this at least gets you headed in the right direction...

I am not technically savy with regards to the inner workings of the steering rack, but it appears on mine there is a plastic or rubber "tri-fan" insert that that seems to be retained by the outside slots in the tube and this is what is keeping my spacers from going any further. It looks like on yours that that piece is either not there or has been pushed further down the tube past where the slots would retain it. Sorry it is very difficult to get a good pic of this, but I hope this at least gets you headed in the right direction...

Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. It is much appreciated! I figured something like this was happening. Hopefully it didnt get sucked down in the rack. I think my game plan is to just create some nylon spacers with a larger OD that will hit that lip and pretend i never knew about any a possible retaining clip. Perhaps that clip went to the same place that my inertia switch ball disappeared to ( I noticed my cap had come off the other day and the ball was missing). It seems to always be something....

Not a lot of productivity today, just more prep work. I had been contemplating making some kind of cover for my solenoid & my distribution block. Early on I tried to get these two items inside the passenger compartment instead of on the Engine side of the firewall, but my feeling was that with the AC and the Electric Steering Module (and at that time I was also thinking about wiper space, I have since decided on a Mighty Wiper installed on the removable top...thanks Bill) things were just going to be cramped, so I opted to put it on the engine side and it has just been a real eyesore to me every since. I was able to come up with a design that I like, will look good and be functional. I drew it up and created a paper template of it to try it out first and I think I am going to be happy with it. The final version will be made of 14ga steel and chrome plated...

There are a couple interior ideas that I have been toying around with as well as long as budget doesn't get in the way. First, I am planning on using Tim Whittaker's dash insert on the dash, but I am a very visual person and have no imagination so I traced Tim's insert on paper and this will allow me to play around with a few different layouts before carving it up...

While I was at it, I am planning to re-cover the door panels (this was confirmed when I saw the upholstery on the armrest), so I made templates of those too. Once I have the template, I will put them into CAD and play around with the design on those as well...

FFR Armrest...IMG_5603.jpg
Now granted this has been in my shop for nearly two years.

And since I was in the template mood, I had been seriously thinking about creating some type of dust cover to go around the transmission on the firewall side. This would just be something to help keep dust & moisture out of the area that leads back up into the passenger compartment. MBB Larry had cut me a foam template of the firewall from his kit before he had the engine in, so today I just traced it onto paper for future reference if I decide to do something (actually kind of talking myself out of it as I sit here typing, but we'll see)...

Today was also a really nice day! Got up to 73 I believe, great January weather (I am not a fan of the cold). With that being said I had some final Lizard Skinning that I really needed to get done so I got those parts laid out and sprayed the Sound Deadener portion on today. I will spray the Heat Shield on tomorrow...

As a continuation of doing some dry fitting of components, I assembled the hood hinges yesterday. I am using a bushing package for the Hood, Doors & Trunk and they seemed to fit up well (however the hood isn't on at this point)...

One of my growing concerns has been where the shifter lever sits in relation to where the dash and (really) any console might be. My intent at this point is that I really want to do a forward and rear camera set-up. Navigation and Radio will be included as well, but accommodating the screen (at least one big enough to be functional) is going to be challenging I think. I have seen it done in many of the 33's, however the shifter placement I have seen has been pushed back a bit. When installing my shifter I pushed the kit itself back as far as I possibly could and gained about 1-2 inches. Yesterday I reached out to Lokar after doing some research and they confirmed that I should also be able to rotate the shifter lever back some by loosening the (2) screws on either side of the lever at the base of the unit. I will try to this this weekend and report back...

Keeping on topic with some of what I just mentioned about the shifter. I am currently playing around with a few concepts here. I am trying to keep the actual dash as clean as I possibly can, so I am just trying to stay with the gauges and two vents for air on either side. Then I am trying to fit the AC controls, Ign-Hdlts-Wpr Controls and then a LCD Screen down on to an extension of the fiberglass dash. Just in the concept phase now, but I have been trying to get a feel of how much (or little room I will have)...

A little more progress last night...Installed the hood hinges, trunk aluminum, battery tray & battery. All items still just attached temporarily. I also moved the inertia switch down a bit as some of the builders had confirmed for me that my previous placement would likely interfere with the trunk. Not that you will be able to tell from the pictures shown, but I also added a bit of a stiffener plate to the trunk floor (where the battery sits). Essentially, it is just a .050" doubler plate (thanks for the idea Larry) that adds a little more rigidity to that area. With that being said, I also eliminated the access holes that were in the trunk floor as well. Any adjustments that need to be done to the shocks (for me) are easily done from underneath the vehicle. I know for a fact (from speaking with other builders) that the bottom most trunk floor panel tends to be a bit feeble with the latch mechanism for the trunk attached. So I have been thinking about the possibility of placing (4) support arms (or gussets) that would attach to that aluminum panel from underneath and then bridge back over to the chassis tubing. I know that Tim offers a brace for this area as well, but I was thinking about something that would go back to the chassis. Sorry guys, just thinking out loud here...like to hear any suggestions on this, if you have them. By the way, I did cover the trunk aluminum (both sides) with the Lizard Skin Sound and Heat Shield and then my intentions are to either carpet or upholster the trunk area to finish up, but for now I am still a ways away from that...

One thing I did want to add, is that the battery placement is moved toward the rear of the car just enough that when the trunk hinges are completely lowered the battery doesn't get in the way of the hinges. I know this is difficult to see from the pics as well.

Beautiful build, its an inspiration. My hood is on and the ball studs are on the inside so you are good. Its hard to tell from the photo angle but make sure your trunk hinge arm does not come down and hit your battery. I ha to move mine to the left a little so the arm could clear.

Beautiful build, its an inspiration. My hood is on and the ball studs are on the inside so you are good. Its hard to tell from the photo angle but make sure your trunk hinge arm does not come down and hit your battery. I had to move mine to the left a little so the arm could clear.

Thank you and yes, I should have mentioned this as well. I am right under the edge of the aluminum, I will have to see once the deck lid is installed, but I do have a bit of room to move if need be.

Added the Door Striker Brackets and temporarily used some small self-tapping screws to attach the rest of the aluminum. These are small enough that if I decide to rivet them on upon final fit-up it shouldn't be a problem. I also drew up a Floor Stiffener for the Trunk that I may end up using to help beef up that lower panel where the fiberglass body will attach...

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

Yes, background in Manufacturing, but was in Engineering prior to my current role. Have used AutoCad, Pro-E & SolidWorks and SW takes the cake by far...IMO. I use Drafsight for small projects around the house though...free CAD software.

Well, yesterday put an ending to another season as a Cowboys Fan, but honestly it was a better season than any of us could have hoped for and here's to next season! On the bright side, I am hoping to open next season with Star Mobile One complete and ready to go! It will be taking the place of the current Star Mobile One that has been active for the last three years as it will move on to become Star Mobile Too. Good luck to all the teams remaining!

On a more serious note, I had been contemplating whether to use the existing console I had purchased or to build out something custom. I spent some time yesterday doing some fit-up with the existing console and must admit I think I will be happy with using it. What was really driving my initial concern was being able to add a screen for a forward facing & back-up camera. After putting it in place temporarily and taking some measurements, I think it will actually work out well with the receiver I intend on using...

Larry (builder in Grapevine), was kind enough to lend me his fender kit so that I could play around with them in hopes I might first, come to grips with the idea of adding fenders & two, come up with a concept I might actually like...only time will tell. I definitely think that if I am going to use any resemblance of a fender, I will need to have them bobbed considerably..

I am currently organizing what inventory I have left and getting things ready to go to the Hotrod Shop for prepping and paint at the end of the month. More just about finishing a few details than really anything too overwhelming. I will continue that process over the next few weeks and will also try to knock down some of the Mold lines on the body to take at least a bit of time away from the Shop.

Been discussing with local builder MBB Larry offline about look of car, fenders vs. fenderless, tires, etc. and just thought I'd bring some discussion to the forum a bit (after all things have been slow as of late). Let me preface by saying this is just my opinion and based on my experience(s) alone. It's funny how for me as I was initially working through the concept of my build, I was taking in everything and anything that everyone could offer, meaning I downloaded ideas, concepts, parts I wanted, you name it and once decided upon, I wasn't moving on "my" ideas of the perfect Hot Rod (or others ideas at this point), even as my idea seemed to change everyday ...as long as it fit my budget, it was going to be done! After I purchased my kit and actually started working on it I would move forward holding my ground on "my" idea of what I wanted...after all, it is my Hot Rod! Then slowly what I found was that my concepts would change based on frustrations, challenges, logic, functionality or in some cases, just better ideas. I would progress through the build, take a few steps back because of some of my stubbornness, compromise with myself and then move on with an adaptation. Ultimately, I think what I am getting at, is we all envision the perfect Hot Rod to start with and when it's all said and done...we get the perfect Hot Rod, for each of us. It may not look exactly as planned or designed, but as you progress you tend to fall in love with it's quirks and idiosyncracies and I don't know this to be fact (as mine is not complete yet), but all the frustrations, adaptations, modifications and compromises seem to cohesively present themselves as the most beautiful, sleekest, badaXX Hot Rod out there! I hope I am correct...and either way, I can't wait to experience it!

I would love to build a 33 or the truck next because of the unlimited possibilities. Looking forward to walking the Grand National Roadster Show next week, just to collect ideas. Loved building the MK IV but next time....
-Steve

Been discussing with local builder MBB Larry offline about look of car, fenders vs. fenderless, tires, etc. and just thought I'd bring some discussion to the forum a bit (after all things have been slow as of late). Let me preface by saying this is just my opinion and based on my experience(s) alone. It's funny how for me as I was initially working through the concept of my build, I was taking in everything and anything that everyone could offer, meaning I downloaded ideas, concepts, parts I wanted, you name it and once decided upon, I wasn't moving on "my" ideas of the perfect Hot Rod (or others ideas at this point), even as my idea seemed to change everyday ...as long as it fit my budget, it was going to be done! After I purchased my kit and actually started working on it I would move forward holding my ground on "my" idea of what I wanted...after all, it is my Hot Rod! Then slowly what I found was that my concepts would change based on frustrations, challenges, logic, functionality or in some cases, just better ideas. I would progress through the build, take a few steps back because of some of my stubbornness, compromise with myself and then move on with an adaptation. Ultimately, I think what I am getting at, is we all envision the perfect Hot Rod to start with and when it's all said and done...we get the perfect Hot Rod, for each of us. It may not look exactly as planned or designed, but as you progress you tend to fall in love with it's quirks and idiosyncracies and I don't know this to be fact (as mine is not complete yet), but all the frustrations, adaptations, modifications and compromises seem to cohesively present themselves as the most beautiful, sleekest, badaXX Hot Rod out there! I hope I am correct...and either way, I can't wait to experience it!

Beauty is in the eye of the Builder... No matter what cars I looked at it seems that I changed my mind whenever I had the car outside with nothing else around it. The build will evolve as you go. Some things I learned along the way.

1) with no fenders on the front and the windows down you can throw road stones and even worms up to the inside of the roof so that they will pile up behind the seats. I never realized how much worms like warm wet black top. Fortunately I didn't run into any snakes or a herd of frogs...
2) Without the side covers on and no fenders you can burnish the valve covers and the worms will dry up and stick to the firewall. Snails also...
3) Some people are very entertained by the rooster tails you can throw off the back tires in wet weather...others not so much.
4) So I am widening my front Plymouth Fenders to accommodate the bigger tires I like to run and my 33 will be a "wide body"
5) I should have made my "cowl induction" hood 1" higher...The top is aligned with the bottom of the window glass, I should have set it to the top of the roof flange the window mounts on.
6) I narrowed my running boards which would have worked even better on the new chassis with the drop front tubing. Easier to exit the car.
7) My running boards are raised about 1 1/2" which gets the car on the trailer. They are just below the door swing vice under the body.

I think I'm on MKIII now
1) Started out as a Ford with bicycle fenders
2) Went to narrow Plymouth fenders with thoughts of Artillery wheels
3) After first autocross went to wide body with full fenders (in progress)