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The 1918 Citran came from a bottle recorked in 2003, one of those left-field ancient wines that throws a curveball not just by defying but ridiculing your expectations. At a century old, it looks around one-third of its age with just a thin tawny rim. The bouquet is light with remnants of dusky red fruit, tomato vine and as it responds to aeration, a touch of beetroot just. The palate is medium-bodied, balanced and remarkably fresh. Sure, it fades after 10 to 15 minutes but for a brief window it entranced. To think that it was made most likely by the women remaining at the vineyard at the end of the First World War. Tasted blind at Domaine de Chevalier. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2018)

The 1918 Citran came from a bottle recorked in 2003, one of those left-field ancient wines that throws a curveball not just by defying but ridiculing your expectations. At a century old, it looks around one-third of its age with just a thin tawny rim. The bouquet is light with remnants of dusky red fruit, tomato vine and as it responds to aeration, a touch of beetroot just. The palate is medium-bodied, balanced and remarkably fresh. Sure, it fades after 10 to 15 minutes but for a brief window it entranced. To think that it was made most likely by the women remaining at the vineyard at the end of the First World War. Tasted blind at Domaine de Chevalier. (Neal Martin, Vinous, May 2018)