Hi Cassidy Brower- Cole, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?Hi Cassidy Brower- Cole, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

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if the carb is fairly old the vibration makes the needle bang aroun the hole of the jet, thus making it larger and richer over time.
Ill try for that height about 3-4 numbers leaner... but be carefull!, if youre rich (gasoline term!)and go higher (altitude i.e. to a mountain) the only problem is that the engine will waste fuel, and a little black smoke... BUT if you are lean (or close to lean-of-peak) and go lower (altitude i.e. close to the sea) you can go dangerously lean and can make a hole in one piston or destroy the engine due to detonation and preignition.
just go 2 numbers, and if going to the beach, re jet the carb.

Pull the spark plug and see what it looks like with the original jet. it should be light brown and not covered with goo. If it is then the 40 is too big, If you change it out, drive it a while and check the plug again. The jet size is dependent on altitude and a smaller jet is better at high altitude so that you dont run rich.

1
Remove the seat by unscrewing the bolts found on the four
corners of the seat. Remove the clamps from the top of the air box using
a pair of pliers to access and remove the air filter. The air filter is
removed by unscrewing the wing nut and sliding the filter out of the
box. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the carburetor to the intake
manifold, using a screwdriver.

2
Loosen the fuel delivery hose clamp with a screwdriver and
pull the carburetor out of the Blaster. Before troubleshooting the
carburetor, it's important to note whether you've made a significant
change in altitude or a change in your exhaust/intake setup. If you've
made an altitude change, installed an aftermarket exhaust pipe or
modified your air box, the jets will need to be changed. Refer to your
manual for specific re-jetting instructions based on your altitude. Your
exhaust kit will provide a recommended jetting setup. Do-it-yourself
modifications like removing an air box will require you to experiment
with the jet setup until you find the right one.

3
Disassemble the carburetor by unscrewing the bowl screws
from the bottom of the carburetor. With the bowl removed, the float,
pilot jet and main jet will be exposed. To remove the pilot and main
jet, unscrew them from their respective holes. The main jet will sit in
the exact center of the bowl, while the smaller pilot jet will be set
just below the main jet.
Use a blunt object like a stick or rod to push the bottom of the
needle receiver assembly out of the carburetor. The needle receiver
(which houses the needle jet) will slide out of the top of the
carburetor along with the slide, spring, carburetor cap and gasket. The
carburetor is now completely disassembled and ready to be inspected.

4
Inspect the pilot jet for blockage, slide a thin wire
through the pilot jet's hole, spray it with carburetor spray and blow
the center hole with compressed air. Repeat this process with the main
jet. If there is any blockage or wear, replace the jets. If you have
made altitude changes or exhaust/intake modifications, insert jets that
correspond to your changes as recommended in your manual. Note that this
may take some experimentation with different jets to get the correct
jet setup, as there are many jet sizes for different scenarios.

5
Inspect the bowl, floats and ports for any signs of debris
or gunk. If debris or gunk is found, remove it using a spray carburetor
cleaner, soft wire brush, or thin wire (to insert into small orifices).
If no gunk or debris is found, you've ruled this out as a possible cause
for the starting issues, and can focus on the replacement of carburetor
components.

6
Look for abnormal wearing on the jets, float valve, gaskets,
O-rings and springs. If you have not changed altitude or modified your
bike in any way, then it is best to inspect these components. Any one of
these components, or a combination, may be contributing to your
starting issues. You may choose to replace individual parts such as a
new float valve, though replacing all the interior components with a
carburetor "rebuild kit" is advised. Rebuild kits can be ordered online
or through your dealer, and will ensure your carburetor is fully
repaired.

7
Slide the gasket, spring, spring holder and needle jet
assembly back onto the carburetor cap and insert the assembly into the
top of the carburetor. Screw the main jet into the bottom of the needle
jet assembly by accessing it through the bowl area. Screw the pilot jet
back into its hole below the main jet. Clip the float valve onto its
hinge within the bowl a insert the bowl gasket. Screw the bowl to the
bottom of the carburetor to complete the re-assembly process.

8
Re-attach the carburetor to the intake manifold using the
hose clamp and screwdriver. Slide the fuel feeder line onto the brass
receiver port on the side of the carburetor and slide the air box boot
over the carburetor's intake port, which should be facing toward the
back of the bike. Re-install the air filter with its wing nut, slide the
clips over the air box top to secure it to the box and slide the seat
into place. Re-install the seat screws to complete the re-assembly
process.

9
Prime the carburetor by twisting the throttle once and start the Blaster.

You will need to go down in # jet sizes on both the pilot jet ( low end ) and the main jet ( top end ) since the air is thinner at higher altitude you will need create more air than fuel. For example if you had a 340 main jet you would go with a 320 or a 325. and the pilot jet would also go to a lower #.

Thank you for the inquiry.
In most cases with wet fouling plugs is a result of your jetting being to rich. We see this quite often when we jet for the High Desert above 5000 feet and then the following weekend go to the Coast Range or the valley not exceeding 1000 feet altitude.
There is usually pretty good jetting information in the service manual. KTM's carburetors have all kinds of jets available for Main, Pilot, and Needle. I would start by purchasing a size or two smaller pilot jets. The needle jet fuels the middle RPM range and maybe it's set to high and over-fueling the engine. White exhaust will be an indicator. You can raise the cir-clip position on the needle which will lower its position fueling it less. Try that. There is usually 3 - 4 needle positions.
Hope this helps helps. Please keep us updated and remember to rate this answer.
Keep the wire tight,
TF

these symptoms usually point toward lean on fuel for some reason
most common would be dirty or gummed pilot circuit and pilot jet I would remove carb and take out the pilot jet clean or replace with new - blow compressed air through the hole the pilot jet came out before reinstall
depending what altitude you are a bigger size pilot jet may assist this issue also but clean and replace original pilot jet and circuit first to confirm

The secondary main jet (125) goes into the jet needle holder in the center of the carb (needle). The primary main jet (75) is between the secondary main jet and the pilot screw (this one is slightly off center) . The start setting for your air screw should be 1 3/4 turns. Warm up your engine and drive for ten minutes. Adjust your idle speed to 1100 + or - 100 rpm. Now turn pilot screw in or out to get highest idle speed. Readjust idle to 1100 rpm. Now turn pilot screw in till idle speed drops 100 rpm. If pilot screw seats go to next step. Adjust the pilot screw out 1 full turn from 100 rpm drop point. Now reset Idle to 1100 rpm. That is how Honda says to set your air screw. Standard setting is probably sea level and going through the procedure will set you up for the altitude where you ride. Do the adjustment during good weather at the altitude you plan to do the most riding.

These bikes shipped with only one jet needle (unlike other Yamaha's) the bike's factory jetting is 45 pilot, NBKF needle on the 2nd clip from the top, and 138 main. This bike tends to run a little rich off the bottom, so I'd recommend running a 42 pilot instead. When it's really hot out (over 90) you can run the 135 main jet.

Screwwing with carbs is fact of life with these bikes - you will have to do some tweaking no matter what.

jetting is not an exact procedure. too many variable altitude, temperature, humidity, gaz.. does your bike presently run rich or lean ..ect.. i would go 1 size to start. it's safe to run an engine too rich but is risky to run too lean