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my canoe

Here are some pics of my new canoe for hunting. It's been a long winter so I thought I would blow it up and see if my new rowing frame I built would fit. The frame comes a part in the middle to break down into two sections, plus you can take the oar stands off. Tell me what you think about my design.

Perhaps consider adding a chafe pad under the frame. I wonder by looking at the pics if the metals sharp edges/hardware/etc.. could be an issue once the canoe is loaded or under more pressure. A temporary padding perhaps just under the frame. Foam sheeting perhaps, just a cheap sleeping pad cut into 12"x18" sizes. Anything at all would be pretty cheap insurance. Just a thought, you know better than I. Nice rig you got there.

The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

Dan,
There are no sharp edges, I made sure of that. I will be using pieces of rubber under the frame. I just have not been over to Alaska Rubber & Rigging to pick it up yet. I will probably get 1/8" thick rubber to go under the frame. That away I should never have a issue with the frame ever touching the canoe.

Smart man. I am in the process of finding a similar solution for my raft. It is a lightweight raft so I can fly with it (had to be under 100 lbs) and it doesn't have a chafe pad. This was one of the things that made this 14'4" Sotar so light (94 lbs in bag). No chafe pad, no extra hardware, standard floor (bucketboat), etc... Very minimal (if any) wear now, but an area I want to protect. Likely will rig up something that attaches to the underside of the frame side tubes. Foam, pipe insulation, swim noodle, not sure which route to go. Sounds like you have it all figured out. Nice set up you got there man!

Mine...

The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

Nice looking rig you have also Dan. The frame on my cataraft just sets on top of the tubes like yours. It is about 6/7 years old with no issues of wearing. Two strips of the same rubber I will be using would do the job for you also without the bulk pipe insulation/foam and it will not hold water like the others. Plus it would roll/fold up into a small package for shipping/fly. Just a thought

Cargo net, etc.

Originally Posted by 450HUNTER

cargo net on front.

You want to drop that platform a little deeper in your boat, though. Should sit about 3" or so off the floor. This platform is really the wrong size, but it's the smallest stock one available. I heard a rumor that there are some smaller ones around, designed for these new narrower boats.

Looks like a SOAR knock-off- who makes the boat, or do you know? Also, I see the inflatable floor, but is it a bailer... and do you have the other specs on it?

Dan, Since you bought a urethane raft, you will not have a problem with the frame wearing the tube fabric. If you must put extra fabric on your your tubes let me know how much you need, as i have some of the same urethane your raft is made of. Never put open cell foam or pipe insulation between your frame and raft. Sand will stick to the foam and rub your fabric. Really don't think you will have any problems. I have been running SOTARS commercially for 26 yrs. and this has never been an issue.
Glad you like your raft.
Goo Vogt
ALASKA WILDWATER

Your word is more than good enough for me man. Thanks for chiming in. Got some dark marks on it in Sept while fishing the Upper Kenai. They washed off when I got back to NC, but that got me wondering about long term care. Thanks for the input.

-Dan

The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

Skinny Raft -

Originally Posted by 450HUNTER

Here are some pics of my new canoe for hunting. It's been a long winter so I thought I would blow it up and see if my new rowing frame I built would fit. The frame comes a part in the middle to break down into two sections, plus you can take the oar stands off. Tell me what you think about my design.

Nice job on the frame!

No Mike... take another look-see - It is not even close to design, features, built-in or add-on accessories you spell out as knock off to Soar Pro-pioneer (that's kinda funny) or anything else but a skinny raft.

Look at 360 degrees inflatable collaring of tubes with 4 air chambers.
- Better safety margin if damaged mid-stream
- Much more rigidity for handling, stability, plus mounting seats & frames
- Most importantly no clam-shelling and much better for motor mounting.

The floor lays out like an I-beam Should... Flat! Increasing hauling performance...
not bent up like a PP and stressed for the higher potential of floor failure at bow and stern

Much more substantial hardware than any SOAR product.

It does share a little bit with regards to tube-size and floor cushion to AIRE, Incept, and Soar... but that is it. This is so it can be paddled with normal size canoe or raft paddles, long sea-kayak paddles, and smaller oars. The layout of this boat works structurally with inflatable boat fabrics and takes no harsh turns inside the chambers like the Traveler's sharper tip and tail.

This one pictured by 450HUNTER is non-bailing inflatable floor base model with the exception of an easy, simple, solid motor mount being installed. Self-Bailing are available.

Again 450HUNTER really nice custom frame --- thank you for posting about us and your boat. With the warm spell over much of Alaska - I'm sure you are ready to go.

Brian
I'll be getting with you before long about a motor mount. Thanks for the kind words about my frame. It should work out nice I think plus it gave me something to do and didn't cost alot in materials. Can't wait to get it in the water.

No Mike... take another look-see - It is not even close to design, features, built-in or add-on accessories you spell out as knock off to Soar Pro-pioneer (that's kinda funny) or anything else but a skinny raft.

Look at 360 degrees inflatable collaring of tubes with 4 air chambers.
- Better safety margin if damaged mid-stream
- Much more rigidity for handling, stability, plus mounting seats & frames
- Most importantly no clam-shelling and much better for motor mounting.

The floor lays out like an I-beam Should... Flat! Increasing hauling performance...
not bent up like a PP and stressed for the higher potential of floor failure at bow and stern

Much more substantial hardware than any SOAR product.

It does share a little bit with regards to tube-size and floor cushion to AIRE, Incept, and Soar... but that is it. This is so it can be paddled with normal size canoe or raft paddles, long sea-kayak paddles, and smaller oars. The layout of this boat works structurally with inflatable boat fabrics and takes no harsh turns inside the chambers like the Traveler's sharper tip and tail.

This one pictured by 450HUNTER is non-bailing inflatable floor base model with the exception of an easy, simple, solid motor mount being installed. Self-Bailing are available.

Again 450HUNTER really nice custom frame --- thank you for posting about us and your boat. With the warm spell over much of Alaska - I'm sure you are ready to go.

Hello Brian,

Not trying to rile you here at all... I was just trying to find out the manufacturer and specs. My point about the SOAR knock-off was not a reference to the Pro Pioneer, but to the Levitator. Clearly the green boat is a variation on the theme.

Yes, there are differences between this one and the SOAR product. You are using Halkey-Roberts valves, SOAR uses Leafields. The material is different, the D-rings are different, the boat looks heavier weight-wise, you have the old traditional rubber grommet-style motor mount patches on the stern, etc. But the similarities are also striking. The Levitator has gone through several design permutations, and it is my understanding that the latest version has some bow and stern rise, a major improvement. Still, the grommet flange atop the tubes, the long skinny profile, the I-beam floor... these two boats are very similar.

Anyway, I would be interested in knowing who builds it, details on the fabric, dims, weight, and other specs (including price). And even a wild guess as to carrying capacity...

It's great to live in a place where people are willing to invest time and money developing tools that have such an application to float hunting, and I certainly applaud the effort. That's how it should work!

cargo nets and inflatable canoes

Originally Posted by 450HUNTER

cargo net on front.

is that cargo net supposed to cover the gear and hold it down or be a platform to place the gear on. i thought it was a cover but after reading the posts that followed, i'm a little confused. i've attatched a couple of photos of my new traveler with breakdown frame. the front half of the frame can be removed for solo use. it may not be a game hauler, but it should be a good fishin rig on low water tribs for both solo and tandem use. also, i hope it will work ok with a small outboard for flat water.