1. Put 1 gallon of water in six-quart stockpot, add 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Add potatoes and cook until fork-tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking water.

2. Smoke potatoes to taste in a smoker, according to manufacturer's instructions. If you do not have a smoker, set a 13-by-16-inch aluminum roasting pan with a rack on the stove top so that it spans 2 burners. Scatter 2 tablespoons ground hickory, apple or cherry wood chips (designed for stove-top smokers) evenly in pan. Lay a double thickness of aluminum foil over rack, and crimp any overhanging foil around edges. Arrange potatoes in a single layer on foil. Cover pan tightly with 2 sheets of aluminum foil laid side by side, if necessary. Turn both burners to medium-low, and smoke potatoes for 15 minutes.

3. Transfer potatoes to a large bowl, and mash them with a fork or pass them through a ricer or food mill. Add 1 teaspoon salt, butter, cream and 1/2 cup potato cooking water, whip until thoroughly combined. Add more cooking water, 2 tablespoons at a time, until potatoes reach a smooth, fluffy consistency. Season with salt and ground pepper to taste.