The most vital thing you're missing is the structural integrity of the floor: it appears you have chopped out large sections of (at least) three of the floor joists to run drain pipes within the space.

Fixing that issue will require you to remove all of the drain piping you've modified / added.

By the way, the electrical connection to those recessed lights is wrong; the incoming wire needs to be secured via a clamp where it enters the junction box.

Is the lav/tub on 1-1/2" or is that 2"? If you used 2", you could have wet vented everything in that bathroom through the lav. I believe that Ohio is on IPC. If so, the distance to vent for the toilet is unlimited.

For the vent with the belly, it should work in most cases (if it stays dry), but inspectors won't like it. It could fill up with rain water or condensation and form a trap, making the vent useless.

I also agree with the others on the structural issues. Those notches are not allowed. It will be especially bad if you are going to tile the floor and the tile/grout will crack with the floor movement.

On the toilet, make sure you get the center on the flange 12" from the finished wall (account for drywall and tile (if wall will be tiled)). If you are short, you will have a harder time finding a toilet.

Is the lav/tub on 1-1/2" or is that 2"? If you used 2", you could have wet vented everything in that bathroom through the lav. I believe that Ohio is on IPC. If so, the distance to vent for the toilet is unlimited.

For the vent with the belly, it should work in most cases (if it stays dry), but inspectors won't like it. It could fill up with rain water or condensation and form a trap, making the vent useless.

I also agree with the others on the structural issues. Those notches are not allowed. It will be especially bad if you are going to tile the floor and the tile/grout will crack with the floor movement.

On the toilet, make sure you get the center on the flange 12" from the finished wall (account for drywall and tile (if wall will be tiled)). If you are short, you will have a harder time finding a toilet.

Click to expand...

Yes, the lav/tub is on 1-1/2".

I believe Ohio requires a vent if a toilet is more than 6' away from stack. Its roughly 5' so I might go ahead and eliminate the vent for the toilet and cap it?

With the structural issues, I plan on sistering the joists the best that I can. They are non-loadbearing, and have been this way for 12+ years, no sagging or structural issues have came up.

Yes, I do plan on tiling. 3/4 CDX plywood, DITRA, and mosaic porcelain tile. Deflection rating can be lower than normal.

The toilet drain is roughly 15" away from wall. I plan on getting one of the TOTOs with unifit. I did not want to hack through the joist to make it a 12" rough in.

The flat vent that Tom mentions is because a vent cannot go horizontal until it is at least 6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture served. In the eyes of the code, anything less than 45* is "horizontal".

Your tub is not vented. If that lav drain was 2", it would have been okay and considered wet vented.

For the vent with the belly, the issue is that it can fill with water over time (even with it not being a drain). As I mentioned, rain water and condensation could fill that belly and make it into a trap. At that point, the vent would no longer work.

I'm not a plumber, but I think that I would cut all that out, use 2" on the lav to wet vent the bathroom group, fix the joists, and see about moving the toilet or re-routing the plumbing to avoid hacking the joists.

This is an excellent example of why a novice DIY should not attempt a major plumbing job. PVC makes it look so simple...like building with Tinker Toys (Legos for the younger generation) Just cut and paste. You have made a major boo boo and it's going to cost you everything you've done plus. There's no getting around the fact that this will not pass inspection and there is no fixing a couple of things to make it OK. Pretty blunt I know, but what else is there.

It doesn't matter if the vent for the toilet is pitched or not, it's still illegal and useless. Vents must rise vertical until they are a minimum of 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served (the lav) The dip in the downstairs vent WILL fill with condensation and become useless in short order. Just because the notch is there is not a reason to continue the madness and in fact, since you have the floor open should have afforded you the opportunity to make the repair. The plumbing inspector and building inspector are going to make you fix it anyway.

Probably because onc the floor is put down, nobody will see it.
Saying it is "not load bearing" ignores the fact that the tub's apron will be sitting almost directly over that "compromised" joist. I am not sure what that "stuff" is. It could be lead wool which I have never been able to use and not prevent a leak, or some sort of "plastic lead" putty. I doubt that it is a "poured" lead joint since that would have melted the PVC pipe.​