A couple days ago I found a Heiland Tilt-A-Mite in my darkroom. I've must of had it for 20 yrs. or so and I never really looked at it before. The capacitor is rated for 30 volts. I tested it and it had a charge of 22.5 volts. The battery only tested 19 volts. That's a puzzle? I fired a 5B flashbulb in it and everything seems to be working. It seems to have little or no value on eBay. Checked 15 completed auctions and 10 of them didn't even receive a single bid! Are people still using these Tilt-A-Mites?

Update Thanks Les. This unit provides a choice between a Bayonet Base or a M2 Base with a simple move of a lever. What I like about it is it's light weight and the adjustable reflector opens to a full 5 inch diameter.

I guess not! One of the benefits of the later runs of the tilt-i-mite is that they took either the M series or the AG series. Earlier versions I think could take either the bayonet or the M series.

AG1s are still cheap because it's hard to find a flash to use them. I must have a couple of hundred and am still trying to figure a way to string the together for big shots (my friend still wants me to try Flash Cirkut photography, but he always been a little strange)

Ys there are adapters out there and I have some use to have a lot more but I'd forget I was using an adapter and eject the dead bulb and the adapter in the trash.

Now that my Tilt-A-Mite is up and running I wondered about 'Flash Synchronization'. My unit has a pc flash connector on the end of a 13 inch cord. So it had to work with X synch. I found the following quote in a 1973 book titled "The Amateur Photographer's Handbook" by Aaron Sussman.
"Flash synchronization. Shutters take time to open, and bulbs take time to flash. The problem of synchronizing leaf (between-the-lens) shutters is that you to make certain the leaves are open at the very moment the bulb is at its brightest. With shutters marked M-X this can usually be accomplished at any speed using the M setting, and at 1/25 to 1/60 (of a second) using the X setting, when used with the M setting, the shutter begins to open after the flash is over because the M setting is adjusted for a time delay equal to the number of milliseconds it takes for the flashed bulb to reach its peak."
Using X synch with my Tilt-A-Mite at 1/60 of a second or less doesn't seem to be too much of a problem for me. I used a Nikon F camera for nearly 30 years with those same limits (1/60") using an electronic flash. (It had a focal plane shutter.)

Just a minute,don't forget that when you were using the Nikon with strobe, the strobe at 1/1000 of a sec or greater was actually stopping the action. This will not be true when using a flashbulb. While it is not impossible to handhold at 1/60th, you would probably see a difference between tripod and handheld.

I have several flash units, but no Tilt-A-Mite. My biggest problem is getting a shutter that will sync up. I would like to use both X and Bulbs. Going to look into the Syncronizer on the Supermatic Shutters, I do not fully understand at what speeds to use this feature. You have the Red M, The Black M, F, and of course X. I believe the F setting is for Fast peak gas filled bulbs, such as the SF. Ironially I only have 5 SF bulbs and 200 #5. Cheers, Russ

I don't know enough about synchronized shutters to be of any help. A day or two ago I finally received an original copy of 'Graflite Instruction Manual'. It had more information sheets than the one being sold as a copy manual on eBay (I bought one of those as well!). It has information on solenoid operated shutters and built-in synchronized shutters. Adjustment of solenoid is covered on pages 19 & 20. My lenses are:
(1) Schneider-Kreunuach...Xenar, 1:4.7/135mm. Synchro-Compur-D Shutter.
It has X & F setting. It uses a HR solenoid for M setting. (2) Kodak Ektar 1:4.5/152mm. No. 3 Kodak Supermatic Shutter. It doesn't have any settings, The bipost connector on the shutter has been cut off and a pc connector added. Again, it uses a HR solenoid for M flashbulbs. (3) Kodak Ektar 1:4.7/127mm Graphic Supermatic (X) Shutter (Made by Kodak). It doesn't have any settings either. The bipost connector is in place. It also had an HR solenoid for M flashbulbs. (no pc connector) (4) Kodak Ektar 1:4.5/101mm. Kodak Flash Supermatic Shutter. Its settings are M & F. The bipost connector is in place. (no pc connector). Why not use solenoids?
Harry

In4 words "pop pop fizz fizz" I have an Anniversary Speed that I bought from the widow of the original owner.

I have had several instances where, even with fresh modern batteries, the flash goes off, but there just wasn't quite enough energy to trip the shutter. I've never had an HR solenid to work consistantly. The sync on the shutter is much more reliable.

One word of caution about the Xenar. Most shutters have a wiping contact that closes at the right time and then opens when the shutter is at rest. The Compur's contacts remain closed until you cock the shutter, so make sure the sutter is cocked BEFORE you put another bulb in the unit or your finger prints will be the the laquer coating, and you'll look really stupid in front of your clients.

Hi Les
Thanks for the info. I polished the HR solenoid male bipost contacts today and discovered after more than 20 years that they are covered with brass or some other material. I always thought that the patina was the natural color! Any Ideas about what's the material? It's too bad that there are not more B-C Cartridges around. I bet the surge of current from the large capacitor would of tripped the shutter. I think I'll handle bulbs with a hankerchief from now on, I still remember peeling my flesh off cold (frozen!) steel in Alaska! Your comments do include all solenoids?
Harry

I use a solenoid but only as a shutter release. It really works a lot better than cable releases. One thing I am checking out on Flash Supermatics is that they really have X sync if you don't use the Synronizer.If this is true then it solves one of my problems. Also if you use the synronizer then you can use medium peak bulbs even if the shutter does not have the black M, but rather the Red M. Will shoot some pictures and verify this. I am presently using an old Heiland tube with a accessory shoe mounted on a rubber cap on the top and it looks pretty nifty. Russ

Graflex made solenoids for a certain voltage. If you increased the voltage you could be certain that the solenoid would fire, but probably faster than it should and thus be out of sync.

And putting 22.5 volts from a BC battery on a solenoid designed for at best 4.5 would most certainly trip the shutter the first time, after that.....

Which is why Graflex said specifically that the BC was not to be used with solenoids. Remember also that the BC came out 20 years or more after the invention of synchronized flash. By this time all shutters had at least one way to sync a lens internally and the main reason for the solinoid became to simply trip the shutter, the flash was controled by the shutter and not the solenoid.

_________________"In order to invent, you need a good imagination and a lot of junk" Thomas Edison

After reading the comment regarding solenoids and increasing the number of batteries.... I had to test my B-C Cartridge (see B-C Cartridge post). Camera is a 4x5 Crown Graphic (1965) and the 135mm lens mentioned above with a HR solenoid operated shutter. The fresh battery in the B-C unit measured 24.6 volts. I attached the three battery case with the B-C unit inside to my camera. Plugged the cord into the solenoid and Solenoid outlet on the case. Set the circuit control to "N". Inserted #5 flashbulb into reflector. Set lens aperture wide open and shutter speed to 1/100. Cocked the shutter and fired the red micromatic switch on the case. Flashbulb fired and shutter opened and closed. Immediately, I dropped the wasted bulb, replaced with fresh bulb, cocked shutter and fired again (total time about 5 seconds). Flash and shutter worked fine. I cocked and fired several times without flashbulb and solenoid worked the shutter just fine.
Page 19 and 20 of the 'Graflite Instruction Manual' covers the adjustment of solenoids. The following quote covers adding additional batteries:
"When using extension tubes the additional battery strength will require turning the adjustment cap of the solenoid upward (Graflex) by approximately one full turn for each additional battery cell. Approximately two full turns will also be required when using a Hot Shot battery if this is plugged into the BATTERY outlet and used as supplementary battery strength. Remember to readjust the solenoid before returning to the use of only three battery cells."

With the discussion of the Tilt-a-mite, I recently reactivated mine for some open flash shots.
There appears to be some confusion about flash sync. M series bulbs like the #5 and Press 25's and others need to by synced on the M setting. The M setting indicated a 20 milisecond delay. This means the bulb ignites and reaches maximum light power, and then the shutter goes off at the peak of the bulbs power. That is what M sync IS. Other gas filled bulbs like FP's are instant and can use the X sync. Most are M and use the 20 milisecond delay feature. This was 95% of the bulbs in use. Email me direct for questions. Richard Boulware - Denver. email boulware-den@att.net

If one should "cook" their fingers then as soon as possible put them under cool running water and leave them there until the burning sensasiton is gone, when removed from under the cool running water. Remove remaining bulb carefully. In severe cases grab an ice cube or two or three.

_________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.