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BUILD AND FIT TH E FACE FRAME TO TH E CU PBOARD MAKE THE FACE FRAME Bead the inside edge. The beading on the inside edges of the stiles and rails can be cut using a scratch stock, a router, or a molding plane. Cut the bridle joint. Use a tenoningjig to cut a slot in the end of each stile of the face frame. The rails of the frame are tenoned to fit the slots in the stiles, completing the bridle joint. Mitered bead. Using a guide block that straddles the stock (top), cut the face-frame beading at a 45° angle. Done correctly, the joint is seamless. shelves stalts, on the inside of the cabinet where the bevels of the wing and face frame meet. The front edges of the top, bottom, and shelves should be flush with the inside edge of the wings' bevel. The back edges of the top, bottom, and shelves should extend nearly beveled edges mat mate witil tile cabinet's wings. Leave the stiles at least Y16 in. over\4 in. to enter tile da- does in me back piece. Disassemble the case and mark out the shape of the front edge of me shelves. Cut close to tile line on the bandsaw and use a spokeshave to plane it to a smoom and fair curve. If you wish to display plates, cut a plate groove in the shelves and/or bottom wim a tablesaw or router. The groove should be \4 in. deep by from the sides. % in. wide, and stop 2\4 in. Bead and build the face frame The face frame consists of two rails and two stiles. The frame strengthens tile cabinet, adds rigidity to the door opening, and provides a place to attach the cornice and base moldings. The stiles of the frame have 50 FIN E \'II 0 0 0 \XI 0 R K I G size in widtil and square edged. Before cutting any jOints, bead tile inside edges of the stiles and rails with a scratch stock, a router, or a molding plane. Use scrapwood to set up the tablesaw to cut tile slots and tenons for bri lie jOints mat connect me rails and stiles. To produce tile neat appearance of a mitered bead at each inside corner of tile face frame, cut away a section of wood from the side of me tenon and me slot. The width of this cut is equal to the widm of the bead. With a guide block sO'addling me stiles and rails, use a chisel to pare away me bead and quirk at a 45° angle. Trial-fit the face frame and beads, sand the beads smooth, and mark out and cut mortises for the hinges. Finally, glue the frame together, leaving it oversize in width. Assemble the case Before assembling the case, plane or sand the shelves and the inside surfaces of the top (tile bottom was done earlier). Do one last dry-fit of the entire case, less me face frame and back, which will be added later. Drill holes in the sides for the screws, angling them toward the front to grab some of tile side grain of the top, bottom, and shelves. Glue me bottom, shelves, and top to one of me side pieces; then with this assembly lying on its side, add the other side. Very little glue is needed. Be careful not to damage the exposed miters on tile wings. Check mat the shelves, top, and bottom are in meir proper position, and screw me case togetiler. Cut the back to size, plane or sand me inside surface, and attach it to the sides using screws but no glue because it is cross-grain to the shelves. The last and trickiest part of me assembly is to fit the face frame. To gauge me location of the miters, lay the frame on the carcase, centered in the opening. Mark the miters with a pencil, and then go to the tablesaw and rip both at 22\-2°, leaving the lines visible.