Lets get technical......sort of - 18/11/2011

Jim’ll Fix it (if Jim’s a roofer)

According to British Standards a wind loading calculation should be carried out on every roof to determine how the tiles should be secured to resist wind uplift; in other words, to stop them being blown off in high winds. This is usually done on larger projects, but on many smaller, one-off jobs it could still be down to the roofer to decide how to fix the tiles.

Don’t be a shrinking violet

You should never be afraid to ask the roofer how he intends to fix your tiles - and there is no reason why you can’t specify how you, as the homeowner, want your tiles fixed. The choices are usually nail or clip, or both. Some roofers don’t even nail all the tiles, so a good starting point is to insist that every tile be fixed.

On my re-roofing project the calculations showed that all tiles should be clipped. Our house is in quite an exposed area so we nailed each tile and used Cassius plastic clips, to match the roof tiles and to make sure everything fit together nicely.

For some of the very small cut pieces at the valleys we used screws and also adhesive to ensure the tiles were secure. But if you use adhesive you have to be sure to use a suitable type that is going to last – check with the supplier as they will have all the details for the various fixing systems.

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The general consensus is to if the material containing asbestos is in good condition then just leave it alone. I think this is specially true of roofing materials. They are not in a place where you are going to be in daily contact with the material and therefore the risk of ingesting the asbestos is very very small.Many state and federal groups recommend leaving roofing that is in good condition alone. You can check this out at some of the sites below. You will note they even say a homeowner can remove roofing with asbestos if they follow certain precautions. I personally would not worry about the roofing.

It would be better to do the whole floor and set the cabinetry on top of that. This is because you may eventually want to change the layout of the kitchen and it would be very difficult to find matching tile later on. Also, you get the moisture protection of having the tile along the entire floor. That’s what my tiler did when I redid my kitchen. It was more expensive, because it required more tile. But, if you’re replacing all the cabinets, it’s definitely the better way to go.If someone replaced the kitchen floor without replacing the cabinets, it obviously makes sense to just tile up to the bases of the cabinets. And, that’s probably what happened in your kitchen when that floor was put in.

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The cracks are in most of the walls and in the corners. I have about 12 in all. Also the flat work like the garage and the basement floor are all cracks. The garage floor also has air spaces under it. It was poured in the winter and when the frost thawed out the ground sank. This can also happen if the ground was not properly compacted. These cracks may be small now but what will time bring? The concrete I believe has a 10 year warrantee, but only if it opens to a specific size or there is structural failure. I don’t know about you but I would like to avoid that at all costs.

We had a crack on the front side of the house. It looked small and thin but when the guy plueld back the insulation, it went up pretty far and was wider. I dont think we had any water leaking.. There is a 20 yr warranty on the repair.