Drinking in the Scenery / Ten San Francisco bars that serve up super views and cocktails

KAROLA SAEKEL, Chronicle Staff Writer

Published
4:00 am PDT, Wednesday, August 21, 1996

IT ALL DEPENDS ON YOUR POINT OF VIEW -- and in the Bay Area, that view can be dramatic.

Whether you like your martini up or over, your daiquiri fruity or virgin, or your iced tea mango- scented or spiked with spirits, one of the joys of imbibing here is that you can do it against some of the most spectacular backdrops in the world.

Movie companies spend a bazillion dollars to capture thick wads of fog settling onto the Golden Gate's soaring towers or for glimpses of a sparkling bay appearing like a fata morgana at the end of an impossibly steep street. San Franciscans can contemplate such stellar scenes for the price of a cocktail.

That price, admittedly, tends to be synchronized to the number of floors you rise above terra firma: The margarita that a ground-level bar pours for $4 may escalate to $7.50 when served at dizzying heights.

Appetizers follow a similar pattern. In both cases, quality does not necessarily match the price, nor does service.

We'd like to avoid stereotypes like "tourist trap," but -- observing the attitude displayed by the staff at some of our watering holes with a view -- we can only conclude that these men and women operate on the theory that any guest is a visitor whom they'll never see again.

The nicest description of their approach is "casual"; indifferent, offhand, uninformed and sloppy are other words that come to mind.

Happily, however, we encountered excellent, cheerful servers at some establishments in the most tourist-oriented areas of town, especially at Fisherman's Wharf and Pier 39.

And that confirms our hope at the outset of this bar-hopping trip: Those of us who live here shouldn't cede these spots to the shorts-clad, camera-toting crowds who are home-ported in Tallahassee, Trenton, Toronto or Tokyo.

So the next time you and your friends feel like getting together for a drink and a chat, do it against one of the dramatic backgrounds other people memorialize on postcards.

Inside are some of our favorites.

PARADISIAL VISTAS FROM STYLISH COCKTAIL LOUNGES / A ROUNDUP OF PLACES TO SIP, NIBBLE AND GAZE

Here's a quick look at some city bars where the view rivals the cocktails.

CARNELIAN ROOM

Discreetly elegant, this room plays far better after dark than in glaring daylight, which reveals flaws in the acoustic-tile ceiling and makes the sparsely decorated lounge seem cavernous.

But once dusk descends and the wall sconces glow with their

golden light, the Carnelian Room assumes the atmosphere of an exclusive club. This is one of several bars that claim to have the best view in the city. Let's just say the sweeping vista would be hard to top -- after all, at 52 stories up, it's the highest of the high and mighty. The outlook can be dazzlingly airborne when heavy fog roils below, once in a while revealing a dreamlike glimpse of Mount Tamalpais or the top of the nearby Transamerica Pyramid.

-- Drinks: No touristy razzle- dazzle here, but well-made cocktails presented in simple elegance: The Sunset Mist ($7.25, Absolut Citron vodka, 7Up and Chambord) shimmers ruby red in a brimming classic martini glass; there are aromatic spiked coffee and tea drinks (all $6.50) and a good selection of beers ($4 to $4.50), including San Francisco's own Anchor Steam.

-- Food: Appetizers are sophisticated but unfussy -- ahi tuna carpaccio with lemon-infused olive oil, horseradish and capers ($11); warm Brie in hazelnut crust accompanied by grapes ($6.50); good Dungeness crab cakes ($9), served prettily with three sauces (the sweet pepper is best; the watercress is bland and the mango overly sweet).

-- Service: Despite the bankers'- club cachet, don't brace yourself for snooty service. This is one of the most unobtrusively friendly bars in town.

CITYSCAPE

This airy room decorated in pastel gives full play to its nearly 360-degree panorama of city and bay. The Hilton Hotel's food service is undergoing a complete update, so it is difficult to predict what a visitor might find in the months to come.

-- Drinks: On a visit earlier this month, there was no extensive drink menu, but the servers assured us the bartender could produce any drink desired except a Ramos fizz, "because of the egg white." One of the suddenly popular melon liqueur drinks, a Melon Ball ($7), was a fine thirst quencher on a hot night and not overly alcoholic. A gin fizz ($5.75) had fresh citrus notes. -- Food: An ample display of free happy-hour food includes French bread, chicken drummettes in a bland barbecue sauce, and a selection of half a dozen cheeses, including a tangy blue. Appetizers (slated for major change) included four slices of rather grainy smoked salmon ($12) with bitter greens.

-- Service: Friendly, reasonably fast. The bill is presented before guests have a chance to indicate whether they wish anything further.

EQUINOX

This bar atop the Hyatt Regency Hotel has a lock on the claim of a 360-degree view: It revolves like a giant lazy Susan that serves up the city to you or, depending on your perception, serves you to the city. Linger 40 minutes and you make the complete turn, from Twin Peaks to the Bay Bridge and the canyon country of the Financial District, which is particularly dramatic when whipped by wet sheets of fog.

-- Drinks: A huge list presents cute names -- Pirates' Delight, Ragin' Cajun -- for tall and handsome drinks (which you can even get in a souvenir glass), mostly in the $6 to $7 range. Their alcohol content creates little danger that the slow movement of the room will make you dizzy.

-- Food: Predictable appetizers are served in goodly portions. The South of Market ($7), a jazzy name for nachos, piles soft pickled jalapenos on moist chips with forgettable cheese and salsa. -- Service: Competent.

GABBIANO

Where other bars have a bird's- eye view, this one at the Ferry Plaza offers a seal's perspective, with the Bay Bridge towering above and casual anglers casting their nets right outside the large patio. Inside, the airy, high-ceilinged room is pleasantly abuzz with a mostly young professional crowd at cocktail time.

-- Drinks: All the favorites from the bartender's manual are made at medium strength and affordable prices (gin and tonic, $3.50; Campari soda, $4.50). -- Food: The happy-hour buffet won't win any prize for cutting- edge creations but has plenty of salami, cheese, crackers, chicken and similar offerings -- and it's free. If you insist on buying appetizers, the antipasto sampler ($9.75) is a good bet with well-flavored pate and cornichons, seafood, pickled vegetables and such -- two or three people can easily share.

-- Service: Casual, friendly and attentive in the "How's it going?" mode.

THE MANDARIN

This bar tucked in the corner of one of the old buildings of Ghirardelli Square is one of the most romantic spots around. The small windows, framed by heavy brick walls, add to the intimate feeling: The views are served up like charming pictures as you sit in comfortable rattan chairs under a beamed, slanted bamboo ceiling.

-- Drinks: A card advises guests of daily specials, which are bargains: Monday, martinis for $2.75; Tuesday, tequila at $2, and so on. Regular drinks (mostly $5.50) have such intriguing names as the Concubine (with flavored brandy and amaretto) or the Philosopher (kao ling, a Chinese fermented rice liquor, with bitters and lemon).

-- Food: Appetizers off the Mandarin's menu run to potstickers ($5), spring rolls ($4.50) and spareribs ($7.50). A sampler ($9.50) had very well cooked and therefore lean spareribs, two large and well-flavored if starchy shrimp balls and, inexplicably, skimpily filled fried wontons instead of the advertised shrimp Rangoon.

-- Service: On our visit, a bar man who said he was new on the job was clueless and nonchalant to the point of rudeness. Management assures us that he is no longer employed and that one may expect good service and correct execution of orders in the future.

STARLIGHT ROOM

Reopened a year ago as Harry Denton's Starlight Room, this longtime San Francisco favorite of the dance-the-night-away crowd has all the pizzazz and glitz one expects from the gregarious Denton: beveled mirrors, cushy settees, French chandeliers, gold-cloth- swathed ceilings, tassels, lively entertainment and, of course, views of the city. Cover charges vary, but are not leveled until after happy hour (to 7 p.m.).

-- Drinks: As jazzy as the decor, the drink list starts off with 10 martinis and Manhattans ($6 to $7), goes on to cocktails with names such as Sunsplash ($6.50, Stoli orange vodka, Cointreau, orange and cranberry juice, sweet and sour mix) or Nutty Irishman ($7, Bailey's, Frangelico, cream). There are lots of beers and wine by bottle or glass and fine hard liquor. Want to indulge? A shot of Remy Martin Louis XII goes for $95. -- Food: Nibbles range from $2 for a bowl of nuts to intriguing Pinot Noir-cured beef ($9.50). The bargain to beat: Every weekday from 5 to 7 p.m., there's a well-laden buffet ($5 per person) with Italian-style cold meats, cheese, crudites, spicy grilled shrimp, ditto chicken drummettes, focaccia and French bread, a daily pasta, and assorted dim sum.

-- Service: Nobody could be more welcoming than the seemingly ever-present, raspy-voiced Denton. The rest of the good-looking staff varies wildly from eager to blase.

TARANTINO'S

The bar here is a quiet oasis on noisy-pushy Fisherman's Wharf. Decor is minimal (the odd collection of wine posters and pictures on one wall is best ignored), but who needs it? There's a wonderful view of fishing boats bobbing right beneath the windows, with the bay and glimpses of the Golden Gate in the background.

-- Drinks: The classics (all $3.95) -- martini, Gibson, Manhattan, bloody Mary, sidecar -- seem to fit the ambience of this traditional restaurant and are well executed. There is also an array of trendier drinks (mostly $4.75), including the odd-sounding but delicious San Francisco Sunset, which layers melon liqueur and cranberry and orange juice with a float of cream on top.

VANNELLI'S

Ignore the few hanging ferns that seem left over from the '70s and the fake Tiffany glass over the handsome dark-wood bar. This is a solid place and has one of the best working views of the bay -- tugboats, container ships, sailboats, ferries, all plying the water close enough for observers to note details. Pelicans fly by in stately formation, and ripples of waves catch the ever-changing play of light throughout the day and evening.

We nominate this as the catch of Pier 39.

-- Drinks: Along with the standards, there are some fun sippers ($3.75 to $4.75): Strawberry Snow, billed as an adult milkshake (fruit, creme de almond, creme de cacao, cream); Escape From Alcatraz (pineapple and grapefruit juice "swimming in tequila") and a couple of coffee drinks.

THE VIEW LOUNGE

Never mind joshing about the jukebox Marriott or the mighty Wurlitzer -- the soaring, curved, metal-crossed windows are a splendid foil for the views of city and bay, no matter where you sit in this spacious bar. In fact, don't just consider it for sunset or nighttime dates. It's equally pretty when the sun or fog bathe the city.

-- Drinks: All the '90s standard drinks, well made if not too boozy. Try the San Francisco ($6.75 -- a refreshing blend of vodka, triple sec, orange juice and Sprite) or the Marina Green ($7, a margarita with Midori melon liqueur). Pleasant nonalcoholics include a fruity virgin daiquiri ($4). Afternoon tea is also served.

-- Food: Among the best, although it's a small menu. Portions are ample enough for a light lunch with such offerings as silky lemon- pepper smoked salmon ($6.25) accompanied by grilled asparagus, or five skewers of tender grilled Oriental chicken ($6.50) with Asian cole slaw and a slightly sweet peanut vinaigrette for dipping.

-- Service: Professional if a little slow. Inform them if you don't have time to linger.

WATERFRONT

There is a 10-table lounge in this 25-year-old restaurant, but it's fun to sit right at the small bar that offers the best view of -- well, the waterfront. This is a good ship- watching place.

-- Drinks: Wine is the big seller here, with a big selection of California vintages (mostly $4.50 to $6.75 a glass, with a few going to $11), although all standard cocktails are expertly made. The favorite: a classic martini ($4).

-- Food: From the appetizer section of the restaurant menu, order such reliable nibbles as crispy popcorn shrimp or fried calamari (both $6.75) with tangy dipping sauce.

-- Service: A bar man in the old San Francisco tradition -- quick, accommodating and chatty. Guests feel welcome here.

-- KAROLA SAEKEL

MORE VIEWS TO DRINK IN

Write about view bars in San Francisco and not mention the Top of the Mark?

We can hear the incredulity now. The Top of the Mark, which opened in 1939 as the granddaddy of the sip-and-look lounges, will again take its place among the most scenic bars in the world when it reopens next month after a vast remodeling. There will be a central mahogany dance floor, cherry wood appointments set off by rich bronze and copper, and a brand-new menu.

The press and industry insiders will get a glimpse of the room's new finery at a hard-hat preview tonight, but the general public will have to wait until September 16 to see it.

There are a variety of reasons for other seeming omissions: At present neither the St. Francis nor the Fairmont operates a view establishment where guests can just sip and nibble. Their rooms at the top are reserved for serious dining.

At some Fisherman's Wharf establishments -- Charley Brown's and Houlihan's most glaringly -- service was between nonexistent and appalling, so there was no way we could include them in our 10 choice bars. (At the Mandarin in Ghirardelli Square, we were assured that the bad service was a short-lived aberration).

In some restaurants, the view is a stepchild in the bar area. At McCormick & Kuleto's, for example, you pretty much have to crane your neck if you wish to catch a scenic view from most bar seats.

Undoubtedly, readers have favorites of their own -- old- time bars like Sinbad's and the Eagle Cafe come to mind -- and we would like to review them at some time in the future.

If you want to nominate your favorite watering hole with a view for a people's choice follow-up, give its full name and address, write a brief explanation of why you like the establishment, and send it to: "More Views to Drink In," Food Department, The San Francisco Chronicle, 901 Mission Street, San Francisco, CA 94103. Please do not call in your nomination.

-- K.S.

VIEW BARS AROUND THE BAY AREA

San Francisco boasts great bars with bay and city views. But at establishments around the bay, equally stunning sights let you

look back at the city across shimmering waters and soaring bridges.

Here's a brief sampling from different geographic locations: -- From Tiburon: At Guaymas, ferries, pleasure craft, sea birds and nearby Angel Island form a foreground for the bay and an unparalleled skyline view. Tequilas are the drink of choice in this upscale Mexican restaurant. Fresh fruit margaritas are especially popular in warm weather. Pair them with outstanding guacamole, little chicken tamales in pumpkin seed sauce, or mesquite-grilled shrimp.

For a splendid, relaxed outing, consider going there on the Tiburon ferry.

Guyamas, 5 Main St., Tiburon; (415) 435-6300. Opens 11:30 a.m. weekdays, 10:30 a.m. Sunday; closes 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 10 p.m. the rest of the week. -- From Burlingame: The Fisherman lets you catch only glimpses of San Francisco proper, but it's a prime spot for watching the aerial comings and goings at nearby San Francisco International Airport. The lights of the East Bay and the San Mateo Bridge twinkle at night, and at sunset shorebirds digging for their supper on the strip of beach right outside the windows add real on-the-water charm.

All the standard bar drinks are expertly prepared here, including the most-ordered, a properly chilled martini. California roll made with shrimp and cucumbers is one of their best appetizers. The bar menu also offers pizzas and assorted sea food. The Fisherman, 1492 Old Bayshore Highway, Burlingame; (415) 548-1490. Bar opens weekdays 11:30 a.m., noon Saturday and Sunday; closes at 10:30 p.m. -- From Oakland: The Claremont Hotel's Terrace Bar, jutting out from the gingerbread white landmark, can be sheer magic at sunset, even with fog banks adding drama to the scene (unless it's completely socked in).

Virtually all tables offer a view, and drinks are poured liberally. A compact menu of "chilled appetizers" is fine for crudites, but such offerings as a platter of assorted sausages lack appeal -- sausages taste greasy when they're icy cold, no matter how well made they are.

WHERE THEY ARE

These are the addresses and hours of San Francisco's 10 prime view-sip-and-nibble bars. It's advisable to call ahead before visiting any of them. Though reservations are not taken except for large groups, a number of these bars are occasionally pre- empted by private parties.