Monday, September 2, 2013

Karate Blogger

Why am I having such trouble getting this entry out? Normally I would
accept such a damming up of words as meaning the entry is not ready to be
written. In this case, I’ve written all the events surrounding that trip except
for this initial foray into adventure. I’ll give it another shot. Please
forgive me; I sense this will not be some of my best writing.

Ever since watching the
version of Karate Kid that came out in 2010, starring Jacky Chan and Jaden
Smith I have made the temple featured in that movie one of my traveling
priorities. This temple, home of the Shaolin Kung Fu discipline and the
foundation of the Taoist philosophy, is situated atop the Golden Roof Mountain,
for centuries only accessible to the heartiest and most devout. There the monks
develop self restraint and the art of harnessing energy, the Tao, and
incorporating Taoist philosophy into every aspect of their life. One could
compare it to The Force, as elucidated in Star Wars.

Jacky Chan says in the
movie: “Kung Fu is not an art, it is a way of life.” And echo ofthe philosophy expressed by Obi Wan Kenobi

Here I am, a three-year
resident of China and I finally have a train ticket to that revered
destination. To add gravy to those mashed potatoes, I have students/friends who
live in that city and will meet me and guide me through my visit.

Strange: this whole year
I’ve been in a rather deep, pensive mood. Even more pensive than I usually am.
The more time goes by the less company I seek. It has really put a strain on my
general attitude, especially since all the traveling I’ve done this summer has
involved visiting. No reflection on my wonderful, welcoming friends, but I felt
relief that Celine and Amber could not meet me at the train station as planned.

In the next two entries I
describe pretty much everything other than climbing the mountain and visiting
the temple. Ashamed of my own negligent narration, here goes.

Celine, Amber and I were
to meet at the foot of the mountain, only 6 bus stops away from my hotel.
Easily enough we found each other. I had forgotten how vividly beautiful Celine
is! How vibrant and full of life! Immediately my misgivings about being in
company vanished. We all hugged and chattered like magpies while ransacking the
usual outlays of tourist kitsch that are the bane of any attraction I’ve
visited thus far.

The heat was intense and
the sun merciless. Being at the foot of the mountain, we were not getting any
breeze. Time edged closer to noon with the sun directly overhead. Because of
that and also because of my dismal haircut I decided to buy a hat.

We clowned a bit, trying
hats on. Celine looks good in anything she wears. Amber, dimmer in the presence
of her more flamboyant friend but nevertheless a pretty girl found her look
wearing a wide brimmed creation. I preferred the fake felt fedora but selected
a light colored straw Stetson lookalike for its cooling properties. Ultimately
everyone ended up buying the same style, same color hat.

How ironic! I lived in
Texas for years but had to come to China to buy a Stetson!

Remember: I was pretty
hungry because I had not yet eaten anything, but the heat robbed me of any
desire for food. Still: we’re going mountain climbing. That is not something
you do on an empty stomach. I should probably pack in some carbs. The girls
were still full from their breakfast. We compromised by snacking on small cakes
and vacuum packed snacks the Chinese are so famous for.

The girls got to witness
firsthand the effect fish has on me. Gagging, spitting, doing my best to not
throw up right then and there. Maybe they remembered from our class discussions
that I cannot stomach even the smell of fish. After my fit and guzzling long
draughts of water, they asked me why fish has such an effect on me.

It has to do with a bad piece of fish long in my past that made me sick
immediately after eating it and laid me out for days afterward. Even now I
cannot stand the smell of fish or seafood.

There! Mystery solved,
reason revealed. In future entries, when I mention fish derogatorily I can
refer you back to this entry for the reason why.

In the meantime, my
appetite is now even less. Celine, the coordinator of this jaunt decides it is
now time to climb the mountain. One last spit, one last chug of water and off
we go, to the bus that will take us the first part of the mountain.

Warning: another Chinese
illogic coming up!

I paid 240Yuan bus fare
to get halfway up the mountain. Celine and Amber got a substantial discount for
being students and for being native to the area, but still paid a hefty chunk.
All others on the bus I presume were legitimate, out of town tourists like me,
and paid the same fare I did. Being as I paid so much for this excursion I
intended to fully enjoy the experience. Imagine my consternation when all who were
close to windows drew the curtains closed because the sun was too bright!

Too bad no one has told
them that bus windows are usually coated with UV protectant. Or maybe someone
did, and the knowledge defied absorption.

Whatever their reason, my
view going up the mountain was limited to the half of a window next to Celine.
I too could have selected a window seat but the knee injury incurred a few
weeks ago in Chi Bi, in conjunction to the usual problem I suffer with leg room
called for me to take an aisle seat. I handed Celine my camera should she spot
anything picture worthy from the window.

That child is a cloud
fanatic!!! It is not all bad; she took magnificent pictures of clouds.
Unfortunately she ran down the camera’s battery so much that it needed a
recharge once we got atop the mountain. Fortunately I did have my charger with
me and there was a hotel that had a convenient outlet. We allowed 30 minutes
for the battery to charge. That was another one of those freaky things that was
just right.

I am ashamed to say that I
am pathetic. Given my age, excess weight, poor physical condition, and my bum
knee I had no lack of excuses to not climb the multitude of steps that led to
the temple. After paying outrageous fares for buses – and not being able to
enjoy the sights, and another 170 Yuan for the cable car, the final automated
leg before only stairs made the temple accessible, I opted to park myself on a
stone bench, giving the girls my camera and citing poor health as my excuse.

They weren’t going to
climb the stairs if I wasn’t. They would have no fun if I couldn’t be there.
They felt terrible at my inability to fully enjoy the excursion. After much
prodding and arguing, they finally left. I sat on my stone bench, massaging my
knee.

And thinking. What kind
of person have I turned into that does not rise to a challenge? How can I claim
this temple has been a targeted destination of mine if, when faced with the
opportunity to visit it I park myself on a bench? Since when do I allow myself
– encourage myself! – to wimp out???

Nay, I say! Never! I send
the girls a text message to wait for me. Slowly but surely I am coming up that
mountain, whether I’m fat, out of shape, fear a heart attack or have a bum
knee.

It was not as bad as I
had projected it to be. In fact I was barely winded when I summited. Maybe I’m
not in as bad a shape as I thought I was! That’s good news indeed. There were a
multitude of stairs to climb and I did have to rest occasionally, but no more
often than anyone else. And, as usual people were very kind and encouraging to
the big foreigner, smiling and shouting ‘Jia You! Jia You!’ (go on! Go on!).

The wind on the
mountaintop made my spirits soar. The sights of distant peaks, either
shimmering in heat’s haze or shrouded in cloud made me feel as though on
majestic ground. The joy at reuniting with my friends and sharing this moment
with them… at that moment, my heart was full.

I was disappointed to not
feel any type of mysticism. It seemed to me that the monks were either costumed
workers or not typical monks who embrace their belief wholeheartedly. Whole
areas of the temple were off limits, among them the sights exposed in the
movie. I didn’t expect license to prowl over every square inch of the temple. I
would have been happy with just one or two iconic sights. As it was, there were
only a few buildings and platforms for tourist enjoyment.

You should read the next
post to find out where I found that deep connection to the mystic unfathomable.