Making Sense of Scents

Archive for the ‘Mysteries’ Category

Now that the Olympics are upon us I can tell a little story. I have worked for two years at an archelogical dig in Cyprus where the oldest perfumery in the world was “snared” by earthquake.

A dead Ringer!

Working with some of the aromatics ground in nearby pits I was able to put together some unguents which would likely be used by athletes in the ancient Greek Olympics. The pale skinned Greeks did their thing naked, but protected themselves by smearing scented olive oil all over their physiques…hence the expression “bronzed Adonai!”

Two years ago I took the idea to the Olympic Committee in Canary Wharf and even suggested that we could make a small phial of the unisex fragrance to give to each of the 30,000 athletes- a nice little souvenir from Britain.

Guess what? They wanted thousands of pounds from me just to launch the idea.

When I explained that I didn’t need to use the words “Gold”, or “London”, or “rings” or ” 2012″….that it was in fact a historic fragrance of the ancient Olympics…it cut no ice. Money it seems not only talks but it runs, vaults and swims as well.

Result? Nothing happened. Not only did I not have the money to do anything but I simply didn’t have the muscle to take on the battery of lawyers ” protecting our so-called “Olympic legacy”. (which seems to me to have no legs)

It is said that during mass migrations birds rely on three senses. Firstly, they hold a mental map of the terrain from a high vantage point, and thus can visually guide themselves on.

Secondly, a sixth sense seems to use the earth’s magnetic field, or rather the fluctuations in it, to keep a sense of location during flight.

Thirdly, birds have been proven to associate certain smells with their home region. Aromas drifting for miles high up at the level of bird flight can be detected by these creatures. The identification of the scent- it could be of the sea-coast, or of an industrial landscape, and a judgement of the prevailing wind direction, can help the bird home in on home.

In Japan they use around two dozen raw materials to make good incense. The key ingredients are:

Cedar

Labdanum

Frankincense

Clove

Sandalwood

Spikenard

Jinko

Star Anise

Hinoki

Copal

Aloeswood (also called Eagle wood or Jinko)

Depending on the mix incense can either energise you or relax you (As in transcendental meditation.) It’s a mind- altering drug that just happens to be legal!

Alchemists sought the elixir of youth. The quintessence, the essential vital life force of nature that he could absorb into his very being to assume divine status.

It was said to be composed of the four elements earth, fire, air and water. Plants and trees have their roots in the Earth, where they draw up Water and nutrients. Their stems seek the Air, and their blooms the Fire of our Sun for photosynthethis. The nature’s factory then sets to work to create marvellous biochemical exotica within the plant – essential oils. It is this soul of the plants that we capture, nurture and use in the appreciation of perfumes.

The ancients believed that the only thing which could cross the physical barrier between Heaven and Earth was the smoke of incense. Indeed perfume takes its name from the Latin “per fumare” which means “through” or “by” smoke. If you prayed to your God, whatever his or her name, and you wanted your prayers to be answered favourably, it made sense to “sweeten” your request with the magical smokes of burning aromatics.
Here’s my take on that: (Oh! and by the way Onycha is crushed operculum (door) from a certain Mediterranean snail which helped “fix” the mix. Still used in the Middle East.)