You can make a root beer float, right? Ice cream. Root beer. Drink some. Chase chunk of ice cream around glass with spoon.

You can call this a dessert cocktail, if you want to sound snooty about it, but it’s really just a grown-up version of an old-time pleasure.

Lambic is a Belgian-style beer frequently flavored with fruits: peaches, raspberries, cherries, etc. Although categorically shunned by many self-described “manly” beer drinkers, I have known a few men who’d happily chug a fruity lambic over a Guinness. Think of a Lambic Float as a kir royale, only made for after dinner, and with . . . beer:

To make a Lambic Float: Find yourself some high-quality vanilla ice cream. No cheating here, the good stuff has less air in it, which means it stays cold longer, which is crucial to the enjoyment of your treat. Pour in some Lambic. (I used cassis, the blackcurrant flavor.) Careful now, it’ll foam up like root beer. Enjoy as you would a root beer float, but keep the alcohol content in mind.