Your Next Lesson: Rosé From Provence

As summer approaches, much of the wine-drinking world is turning its attention to rosé. I can think of no reason not to join them.

Rosé is made around the world. Much of this production has come about as the popularity of rosé has skyrocketed in the last decade. Naturally, the wine industry has tried to capitalize.

Some rosés are wonderful. But, predictably, a lot of bad rosé is also out there, wine made cheaply and cynically to sell quickly before it withers in the bottle. Rosé has become huge business in Provence, which is an actual place, not just a connotation of relaxed, seaside, summery languor with which rosé is so often identified. Some thoughtful commentators have questioned whether the great success of Provençal rosé may in fact do long-term damage if the bubble ever bursts, as in Beaujolais after the nouveau fad faded.

We may not answer that question here. But we will see what the pleasures of Provençal rosé are about by tasting some of the better versions. Here are the three wines I recommend:

If you cannot find these bottles, a seemingly infinite number of other Provençal producers stands ready to sell you rosé. Rosés from Bandol like the Pibarnon are generally sturdier and can even age well. They are also more expensive, generally. Names to look for include Domaine Tempier, Domaine de Terrebrune, Château Ste.-Anne, La Bastide Blanche and Château Pradeaux. With these wines, if it’s a year older, don’t sweat it. The wine may even be better.

What food goes best with Provençal rosé? Mediterranean-style fare, of course. This can vary from the delicious yet familiar salade niçoise and pissaladière to recipes of your own devising. But don’t restrict yourself. As we saw with barberas, much can be learned by breaking the regional boundaries.

As usual, serve chilled but not ice-cold. And try not to track sand into the house.