Description

Surfing enthusiast Ben Marcus takes you as close to the waves as you can get without hitting the beach. Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon. From its mystical beginnings in Polynesia, surfing has evolved into a worldwide passion, establishing its own roster of legends and seeping into our society in movies, in fashion, in music, and in language. Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, the father of surfing, helped elevate the sport beyond its Pacific Islands origins more than a century ago, and his torch has been carried on by a long line of surf heroes: Woody Brown, Mickey Dora, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater, and many, many others. During the 1950s and 1960s, surf culture and fashion exploded into movies and music. Gidget, the Beach Boys, and even Elvis Presley exposed surfing to the masses, and decades later, the sport and its proponents remain fixtures in pop culture and the media. Yet, through the years, surfing has maintained its reputation as a refuge for non-conformists; its often below-the-radar individualistic lifestyle defies a dry chronicle neatly tied up with a bow. In this comprehensive history of surfing, author Ben Marcus captures the glamour and excitement of this extreme sport. If you are still in awe of that first surfboard, still stoked by hanging ten, or still dreaming of that elusive wave, then this book is for you. "Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time" brings you up close and personal to the exciting world of surfing."show more

About Ben Marcus

Duke Boyd is himself a legend of surfing. He is a surfer, of course, but even better known as co-founder in 1962 of Hang Ten surfwear, the first surfwear clothing line. He lives in Hawai'i.Jeff Divine (San Clemente, CA) is himself a legendary surfing photographer. He is the photo editor at The Surfer's Journal.Ben Marcus is a surfer and skateboarder for life. He was Surfer magazine associate editor and still writes for Surfer, The Surfer's Journal, and others. He's the author of our The Surfboard, Surfing USA!, Surfing & the Meaning of Life, and The Surfer's Handbook. He lives in Malibu, of course. www.benmarcusrules.comshow more

Back cover copy

Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon, a worldwide passion that infuses our films, fashion, music, and language. Hawai'ian Duke Kahanamoku, the "father of surfing," helped elevate the sport beyond its Polynesian origins, and his torch has been carried on by a long line of surfing legends: Woody Brown, Mickey Dora, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater, and many, many others. During the 1950s and 1960s, surf culture exploded into movies and music. Gidget, the Beach Boys, and even Elvis Presley brought surfing to the masses. Decades later, the sport and its proponents remain fixtures in our society. In this fresh and colorful look at surfing's history and characters, author Ben Marcus captures the glamour and excitement of this extreme sport, complemented by hundreds of photos, artwork, and memorabilia. If you are still in awe of that first surfboard, still stoked by hanging ten, or still dreaming of that elusive wave, then this book is for you. About the AuthorBen Marcus is a stoked surfer who grew up in the waves of Santa Cruz and Malibu. He served 10 years as associate editor at "Surfer" magazine and is a freelance writer for "The Surfer's Journal." Ben is the author of "The Surfboard," "The Surfing Handbook," "The Skateboard," and several other surf books. He lives in Malibu, California.show more