Brie and a crackers chateau in a little-discovered spot just outside Paris

My husband was looking for a great rambling property in France, somewhere he could transform into studios and offices for his documentary film-making.

Paris is prohibitively expensive. But east of the capital, in the triangle of lowlands between Disneyland, Champagne and, to the south, Fontainebleau, lies the Brie.

Here, in an out-of-the-way hamlet boasting not one bar or cafe, he bought a monumental grey box for little more than the price of a London garage. In fact, our grey box, previously functioning as a gîte, is a 13th Century château de la commanderie.

Living history: Medieval buildings transport visitors back in time in the centre of Provins

With half a tower remaining (the other one and a half were destroyed during the French Revolution), I have christened it Le Mad Old Château.

It is less than 70 miles from Paris so is commutable, but would I ever spend any time there? The region, I decided all too hastily, had little to offer.

But I was quite mistaken. For those looking for an off-the-beaten-track holiday retreat, let me introduce you to the Brie. Famous for its great wheels of runny cheese, it occupies the northern half of the Seine-et-Marne département.

Author Carol Drinkwater is normally found in the South of France

The area is one of France's most important agricultural zones and, as you drive or cycle along the long lanes where you are more likely to encounter a combined harvester than a car, you might feel as though you were passing through a Constable painting with golden fields in every direction.

Six rivers flow through this land of undulating valleys. Pottering about on the water is a favoured local pastime. If you are keen on horse-riding, there are excellent stables, some offering accommodation, and 1,700 miles of hiking routes.

There are also several forested areas that make for a great day out. Fontainebleau in the south is the most famous, though not the most isolated. With a landmass larger than Paris, it offers any nature-lover a treasure trove of marvels within a conservation area rich in flora and fauna.

The Château de Ferrières, a grand old pile on the eastern fringes of Paris, near Torcy, is worth a visit. It was once hailed as the most luxurious castle in France but its demise came when it was seized and occupied, twice, by the Germans.

First, during the Franco-Prussian War and later during the Second World War when it was robbed of its superb art collection. It remained empty until 1959 when Guy de Rothschild refurbished it, reinstating it as a location for entertaining nobility and Hollywood stars.

Today it is owned by the State and is open in the summer to the public. Nearby is yet another home to Hollywood stars – Disneyland. If the youngsters are tired of nature and history, there are several hotels on site where you can take a break for a day or two and leave them in the company of Mickey and his pals.

When I am approaching the Brie from
the south, from our Provençal olive farm, I turn off the A6 at the sign
for Sens and follow directions to Provins. One of the first little towns
I encounter is Bray-sur-Seine, a picturesque waterside settlement with a
medieval history.

From there the road takes me to
Provins along a leafy route where off from the roadside you might just
spot a semi-hidden watermill or two. Provins should not be missed. Here,
in the centre of acres of low-lying countryside, is a most unexpected
medieval market town.

Grand day out: The Château de Ferrières was once hailed as the most spectacular in France

From the 9th to 13th Centuries, Provins was an axis point where massive trading fairs took place. It linked northern Europe with the Med through its commerce and what is spectacular about the old city with its fortified walls is that so much has been preserved.

The ancient centre is situated atop a hill, one of the few in the area, and the higher you ascend its steep cobbled streets, passing crumbling convents and semi-timbered houses, the older this city appears to grow until, at its pinnacle, you have reached its medieval heart with several capacious squares where all the trading activity took place.

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There stands the magnificent
Saint-Quiriace College, a 12th Century church of immense yet simple
beauty. Outside, is a kneeling statue of Joan of Arc. It is claimed she
passed through here and paused at the church to offer up her prayers.

Provins merits more than a day.
Children will enjoy the subterranean galleries or the jousting
exhibitions with an array of splendid characters including dark knights
and damsels in distress. Quite by chance, I came upon a cavernous
bookshop that could have doubled for Hogwart's library so jam-packed was
it with heavy, illustrated tomes on magic, owls or falconry.

Rural idyll: Fontainebleau is known as a nature-lovers' retreat and has a larger landmass than Paris

Stay over. The city has a good range of hotels, auberges and restaurants –several serving traditional Middle Ages menus. If the day is hot and you are tired of history, take a perfumed stroll through the 3.5 hectares of rose gardens. This region was once renowned for its cultivation of these plants. The Damask rose was brought here from Damascus by the Crusaders and you will find rose tea being served at every little cafe.

Namesake: The area's most famous product

If you are as charmed by this ancient city as I was, remember to buy a Provins Pass. For about €10 (£8.50), it provides entrance to most of the historic monuments. A sojourn in Brie would not be complete without a visit to Meaux, home to the creamy cheese that in 1814 was acclaimed the 'cheese of kings and the king of cheeses'.

Henry V in 1422, after eight months of bombarding the city walls, conquered Meaux for the English. Unfortunately, he was never crowned King of France because he died several months later outside Paris. Such is history, and the region is rich with it.

Visit its splendid cathedral, Episcopal Palace and gardens and stroll to the market, buy a slice of Brie, a baguette and a bottle of wine – befitting the region, their dairy delight is frequently washed down with a glass of champagne.

Then settle down on the banks of the Marne river and enjoy your quintessential French lunch. From here, you can cycle the Canal de l'Ourq all the way to Paris or, like me, bury yourself in the quietude of this secret region.

Carol Drinkwater's The Olive Route is published by Phoenix in paperback, £7.99.

Travel Facts

French Connections (01580 819303, www.frenchconnections.co.uk) has a range of self-catering accommodation in the Brie region. Prices start at around £750 per week for an apartment sleeping four near Torcy. European Waterways (01753 598555, www.gobarging.com) offers a six-day cruise on the River Marne through the Brie region from £2,840 all inclusive, cruise only.