Sary-Chelek: A Distant Beauty

The lake and surrounding Biosphere Reserve of Sary-Chelek are oft-quoted as one of the most beautiful sights in Kyrgyzstan. A habitat for 1.000 different plants and rare mammals such as bear and lynx, Sary-Chelek is a great place to hike, observe nature or to simply get away from it all.

After a difficult approach uphill from Arkyt, finally, at 1.800 m above sea level, the lake of Sary Chelek comes into view. Tucked in by the Chatkal mountains to the west, who reach out over the border from Uzbekistan, and embraced by the mighty Tien Shan range with its towering 4.000 m+ peak Muztor, Sary-Chelek offers a milder climate than the rest of Northern Kyrgyzstan. Winters are snowy, summers are wet. The forests around the lake offer walnuts, wild apples, grapes and pears to the animals that live here and in the high reaches, the snow leopard is said to roam.

Around the star attraction of Sary Chelek lake a number of other, smaller lakes form an invitation to explore the landscape. Try to catch fish darting in the shallow waters (with your eyes, not with a fishing rod!), stroll across the meadows and put your pick-nick basket near the shore. There are trails crossing the sanctuary, used by rangers and locals.

Most will take a day or 2 to take in the little paradise at their feet. For those who allow their heartbeat to drop to the rhythm of the waves lapping at the shore, 2 weeks is not enough. Villages outside the boundaries of the reserve evoke the garden of Eden, should there have been vodka in Eden. Coming down from the valleys, that horrible screaming that man calls silence drifts through the orchards onto the banks of the Kara-Suu river, punctuated by the chirping of warblers and tits.

Trekking and horse riding

For experienced hikers who want to truly experience all the Nortwestern Tien Shan has to offer, a (supported) trek or horse ride entering the Biosphere Reserve from the north is the way to go. You can start in Arkyt and loop through the wild western Chatkal mountains. Or (this is pretty tough) you can start in Talas and cross two 3.000 m+ passes across the mountains and valleys of the Talas range.

A bit easier, but just as beautiful, is an entry from Kara-Suu or Arkyt, with a reconnaisance of the different lakes in the neighbourhood. Still, 2.000 m+ passes need to be conquered. If you’re not a trained hiker, take this route.

Besides nature, jailoos and yurt life can be found in this area in summer.

Issues

Since Sary-Chelek is so difficult to reach, it has seen little destruction from tourism, but as Kyrgyzstan is becoming more traveled, this is changing slowly. The words UNESCO Biosphere Reserve mean very little in Kyrgyzstan, where a park ranger earns less than a taxi driver, so human economic activity like grazing and haymaking continues in the park.

How to get there and when to go

There are 2 entry points close to Sary-Chelek, Arkyt and Kara-Suu (aka Kyzyl-Kol). Arkit is the closest to the lake, and the easiest to access with public transport. Kara-Suu is still a 2-day hike removed from the lake, although surroundings are equally beautiful.

If you have a car or a tour operator, you’re in luck. If not, it’s an even longer drive. With your own transport, take 9 hours minimum to get there from Bishkek, 6 hours from Osh. From Tash-Komur, it’s 60 km of asphalt and 40 km of dirt road to Arkyt. From there, it’s another 15 km of dirt road to the lake.

By public transport: take the bus to Tash-Komur (3 hours from Jalalabad, 6 hours from Osh or Bishkek). From Tash-Komur, it’s 1 km to Arkyt. Hop on the bus to Kara-Jigat (2 hours). From there, a road heads north and it’s another 25 km to Arkyt, the gateway to Sary-Chelek. There might be a bus, otherwise you are stuck with private transport from the locals. They will overcharge, and hitch-hiking is a better option.

From mid-May to end of September, the area will be snow-free. At night, it’s always cold. The best time to go is July and August. A 400 som entry fee is required for the park. You can also visit a little museum and arboretum for that price where you can learn more about some of the plants growing here.

Accommodation

Camping is the only way to sleep close to the lake. If you don’t have your own camping gear, there are homestays in Kara-Suu and Arkyt.

In Arkyt, Mazetov Amapgeldy has a friendly family and speaks some English. Stay with him for 100 som, dinner and breakfast available for a few more som. A blue gostinitsa sign points the way. No shower, toilet is outside. There is at least one other homestay available.