Restaurants

Peggotty's Restaurant & Carvery
(Bury St. Edmunds)

What we thought

When built, late in the seventeenth century, what is now Peggotty's restaurant and carvery was originally four cottages, which subsequently saw life as various shops and dwellings. The present incarnation dates from 1988, when evenings on a Dickensian theme required diners to sit at large tables and help themselves - like an extended Victorian family. Indeed, this is a family-run establishment, and owner-chef Nigel Philpin and his staff certainly extend

The present incarnation dates from 1988, when evenings on a Dickensian theme required diners to sit at large tables and help themselves

a polite and friendly welcome.

It seems that Bury was well known to Charles Dickens, who stayed at The Angel Hotel, and the restaurant's appellation is taken from the loyal housekeeper in David Copperfield. While the Dickens connection can still be seen in some of the decor (a series of silhouetted figures of appropriate characters), Peggotty's furnishing is now more Tyrolean - varnished pine tables with little vases of gypsophilia and dianthus, carved-backed benches and demure lace curtains. The bright, warm, open room offers a beguiling prospect, viewed through the small-paned windows, whence we had been drawn by the wonderful aromas wafting down Guildhall Street. We were (when passing that way on a Sunday morning), literally, following our noses.

Despite that, the carvery didn't tempt us when we dined on a Friday evening. We were, of course, breaking the cardinal rule by arriving mid-service, yet expecting the joints to look fresh and succulent. We're sure early arrivals would not be disappointed (but would need to be aware that an extra charge is made for additional servings). Emphasis is put upon serving fresh local ingredients, with three roasts available from the carvery, supplemented by a small a la carte menu including pasta, vegetarian options and fish, (perfectly cooked) steak and venison.

Our fellow diners certainly seemed happy and some were clearly regular visitors. Starters may be secondary to the main attraction and the interior doesn't quite match up external appearance but at Peggotty's the main course is the main event. We can't help thinking we missed a trick by failing to coincide our visit with the fresh arrival of roasts to the carvery, which is, after all, Peggotty's raison d'être.