p.s. I ordered extras this time, so if you feel 'left out', its not to late to join the solder party!

E.A.S.

First post updated with some wiring info!

-Mike

E.A.S.

Update: Schematic added to first post.

hurray!

demian

I want 1.

E.A.S.

demian wrote:

I want 1.

do it!

brother303

Hi,

is it possible to use a CD4007 instead of a MC14007? Datasheets look similar.

Can somebody confirm this?

Thanks
Greg

E.A.S.

All paid orders are packed and will be shipping shortly!

-M

Dego

Any changes for 12 volt?

E.A.S.

Dego wrote:

Any changes for 12 volt?

Works on 12v as is.

-M

raisinbag

brother303 wrote:

Hi,

is it possible to use a CD4007 instead of a MC14007? Datasheets look similar.

Can somebody confirm this?

Thanks
Greg

Can anyone confirm that 4069 and 4007 works instead of 14069 and 14007? I am making an order and would can order the "14" versions but rather wouldn't if I can use the CD version as I have some in hand.

Cheers

ringstone

raisinbag wrote:

brother303 wrote:

Hi,

is it possible to use a CD4007 instead of a MC14007? Datasheets look similar.

Can somebody confirm this?

Thanks
Greg

Can anyone confirm that 4069 and 4007 works instead of 14069 and 14007? I am making an order and would can order the "14" versions but rather wouldn't if I can use the CD version as I have some in hand.

Cheers

I used CD4069 ok, used MC14007 though. Actually I will try and do a write up of how I wired this and how to switch between long/short envelopes soon, I've just got to get around to doing the LED indicator.

Cheers
Blair

raisinbag

Ok Ill grab the 14007 then just to be sure.

I would love to see how you did it. And ya if you figure out an LED do let us know, that would be a welcome add on.

And it worked great as a LED driver. I used it directly to the output after discussing that with negativespace. He recommended using a high insensitive LED. Works good.

To mount the electrolytes I put two legs in the same hole for the chosen two electrolytes. Then I leave one leg without soldering it to the pcb on one of the electrolytes. The other electrolyte is mounted as usual. Then I solder the legs of the two electrolytes to the switch and after that I solder the leg of the second electrolyte that is not attached to the pcb with its leg to the switch.

I have built two of them

ringstone

Thanks, I was actually going to try Ken's circuit - I'm surprised it didn't work here. The circuit you posted is pretty similar to how I've done it before so I'll go with that.

Cheers
Blair

EDIT: And the cap to switch for envelope length is C35 (6.8uF) - I'm using tantalums as per the original and switching between 2.2uF (short) and 10uF (long).

Dego

I used the exact same values for envelope length as you and was happy with the result. 10uF was the choice since I had no 6.8uF at home but I am happy with the result so I will not change it.

Barcode

E.A.S. wrote:

I used a dual 1M pot wired in series to get a 2M pot. like this...
dual pot by itsfatmike, on Flickr

So are all of the lugs that are tied together "c"?

E.A.S.

Barcode wrote:

E.A.S. wrote:

I used a dual 1M pot wired in series to get a 2M pot. like this...
dual pot by itsfatmike, on Flickr

So are all of the lugs that are tied together "c"?

If you look at the bottom on the pcb, you'll see that "b" and "c" are already tied together. The pot acts as a variable resistor between pads "a" and "b,c" so you need only hook-up "a" and "b" for it to operate correctly.

-M

fivesteppath

I finally powered mine up.
Question. Not sure if this is a fault of my own or part of the design. At the level given, the sustain always... sustains, even if there is no gate/trigger. Its level works fine and it does die when set to 0 though.
It was a quick test, so far the attack and decay work like expected.

E.A.S.

fivesteppath wrote:

I finally powered mine up.
Question. Not sure if this is a fault of my own or part of the design. At the level given, the sustain always... sustains, even if there is no gate/trigger. Its level works fine and it does die when set to 0 though.
It was a quick test, so far the attack and decay work like expected.

Hmm, how is the "HOLD" pot set?

The "HOLD" pot, when triggered by the gate input, will extend the gate for the amount of time set by the pot, even when the input goes low.