If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Overall dimensions (and styling) are very similar to the Surefire UB3T (although that light is only 3xCR123A).

As always, Sunwayman has outstanding quality anodizing – in a rich, dark brown-grey. There is not much real knurling, except for a band around the tailcap. The T40CS does have a number of raised concentric rings near the head of the light (presumably to help with grip and heat dissipation). Body tube has familiar Synwayman styling. Overall grip is certainly decent, although I note there is no apparent clip or lanyard attachment point.

Labels are fairly minimal, but clear in bright white against the dark background.

Rear tailcap is a forward clicky switch. Note the square-cut screw threads at both ends of the battery tube, fully anodized at the tailcap for lock-out.

There is a secondary side switch near the head. This switch is an electronic switch, and controls the output levels of the light when on. Scroll down for an explanation of the interface.

There is also a spring in the head, allowing you to use the newer high-capacity flat-top 18650 cells. All my flat-top 18650 cells worked fine in the light.

User Interface

The T40CS uses a forward tailcap clicky for on/off - press and release for momentary on, click for locked on.

Mode switching is controlled by the electronic switch in the head. When On, clicking the side switch puts the light into a standby Off mode. Click again to turn the light back on. Press and hold the switch to cycle between Hi – Med – Lo, in repeating sequence.

The light has memory with the side switch – if you put it into standby mode, it remembers the last level used and returns to it when you switch back. Note there is no memory if you click-off or unscrew the rear tailcap – the light will always come back on in Max output when connecting/activating the rear tailcap.

There are "hidden" strobe and SOS modes, accessed by double-clicking the side switch when on. Double-click once for strobe, double-click twice for SOS. Double-click again to return to constant on.

For a more detailed examination of the build and user interface, please see my video overview:

Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the 360p icon in the lower right-hand corner, and select the higher 480p to 720p options, or even run full-screen.

PWM/Strobe

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level. Either they are using a frequency that is too high for me to detect, or the light is actually current-controlled as claimed.

Strobe is a tactical 12.5 Hz.

Standby drain

If you twist-off or click-off the light at the tailcap, there is no standby drain (i.e. the physical switch is off).

However, with the light on at the tailcap, there is always a current to the emitter – even when in the "standy off" mode of the side switch.

Unfortunately, I am not able to measure it accurately, as I need to use the 10A port on my DMM. Because the light always comes on in Max output when connecting at the tail (Max measured at 1.47A on 2x18650, if you are curious ), I would blow the uA/mA port if I tried to get a more sensitive reading. After switching the side switch to standby, I recorded 0.003A - which would translate into 36 days for 2600mAh 18650 batteries.

But again, that is only a crude estimate on the 10A port. In any case, I recommend you store the light locked out at the tailcap (clicked-off, or twisted-off) when not in use.

Beamshots:

The T40CS uses a Cool White XM-L emitter, well centered on my sample (with a hint of black centering disc around it, as you can see in the top pic above). Reflector is not very deep for the head diameter, but it is remarkably smooth – this has to be one of the most polished reflectors I've seen. The lens also seems remarkably clear, with a very noticeable anti-glare coating.

As an aside, the reflection is so good on the T40CS that you might have noticed some apparent lettering in the pic above. Here's a blow-up:

That is the mirrored reflection of the front of my Canon S5 lens (in reverse, it reads "CANON ZOOM LENS 12X"). Don't think I've ever seen that reflected before.

And now, what you have all been waiting for. All lights are on 2xAW protected 18650 (3xCR123A for the UB3T), about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

The T40CS is definitely a superb thrower for a XM-L-based light, with a sharply defined hotspot. I would say it slightly out-throws all of the competition above. Of course, that comes at a cost – it also has more prominent beam rings than any of the others.

Spillbeam width is also quite wide on the T40CS, likely due to the wide - but less deep than typical - reflector.

And now for the outdoor shots:

These beamshots were done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground).

You can see the excellent throw of the TC40S, with a tight hotspot (i.e. much narrower than the UB3T). Hotspot is closer in size to the Thrunite Catapult, but spillbeam width is noticeably wider on the T40CS. You can also see the beam rings on the T40CS.

Beam tint is always variable, but my sample is slightly warm for a cool white (compared to the UB3T, which is slightly cool). Again, YMMV ...

Testing Method:

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.

As you would expect from the beamshots, max output and throw are excellent on the T40CS – top of class, in fact.

Although hard to provide reliable estimates, I would say Sunwayman's 788 lumens ANSI FL-1 spec is very reasonable (and maybe even a bit conservative).

Output/Runtime Comparison:

The T40CS shows excellent output/runtime efficiency, on both the Med and Hi levels tested.

Light always comes on in Max mode, unless you turn "off" by the side-switch (which is actually a standby mode). The standby current is hard to measure accurately, but seems to be high enough to fully drain 2x18650 in just over a month.

The light lacks knurling as such, although the various build elements do help with grip.

Light lacks a clip or lanyard attachment ring.

While an excellent thrower, the light has significant beam rings.

Preliminary Observations

The T40CS is a solid, high-output "thrower light", very reminiscent in overall styling to the recent Surefire UB3T.

I'm impressed with the level of throw of the T40CS, given the size of the reflector. Although it is fairly wide (the light uses a 2.5 inch bezel diameter), it is not as deep as most throwers in this class. But it is clearly designed for maximum throw, and projects a well-defined hotspot a good distance (in keeping with, or slightly exceeding, the other high-output thrower lights compared here).

Spillbeam width is wider than typical for this class, likely due to the unique reflector dimensions. The high-gloss polish of the reflector, along with the crystal-clear anti-reflective coating of the lens, produce a very distinctive beam. But note there are also quite noticeable beam rings.

Max output and throw are top-of-class for a XM-L light. Runtime efficiency and circuit regulation patterns are excellent at all levels tested.

The dual-control rear tailcap on/off switch and electronic mode-changing side switch is interesting. The user interface with the side switch is thoughtful, and I am glad to see the strobe modes are "hidden" behind a double-click. Note that the standby current seems high enough to warrant storing the light locked-out when not in use, but short periods should be fine.

Overall build quality is excellent. Grip is acceptable, although I wish they had thought to bundle a wrist lanyard and lanyard ring for the light.

Is this a "poor man's" UB3T? I suppose in some ways it is – the body styling certainly gives a comparable impression. Max output and throw are similar (the Surefire FM24 diffuser even fits the T40CS perfectly). But of course, the beam patterns are quite different (i.e., the UB3T uses a TIR optic). The user interfaces and battery configurations are also different.

At the end of the day, the T40CS stands on its own as an impressive light, with its own distinctive interface and beam pattern. Another 2x18650 high-output "thrower" light for you to consider, and at a more attractive price point than some.

The UB3T Invictus has a lovely huge and cool white hot spot, but virtually no spill!
The T40CS has such a tiny hot spot and a tiny corona for everyday use, but the widest spill. Hmmm.
That leaves the Catapult V3 in between with a medium sized hot spot and warm yellow corona, and narrower spill, but at least it has a spill.

Is there any chance you can ask Battery Junction to loan you the big brother V60C 3x18650 for testing as well?

The UB3T Invictus has a lovely huge and cool white hot spot, but virtually no spill!
The T40CS has such a tiny hot spot and a tiny corona for everyday use, but the widest spill. Hmmm.
That leaves the Catapult V3 in between with a medium sized hot spot and warm yellow corona, and narrower spill, but at least it has a spill.

Nicely summarized - that does capture the differences between the beams of these lights well (although I would say the Catapult has the smallest actual hotspot - the wider corona may make it seem larger up close).

On paper, all three have similar peak throw and max output - but in practice, they have quite distinct beams. This is why I like to do the beamshots when possible (both white-wall and outdoor), since they really help capture the visual differences.

Is there any chance you can ask Battery Junction to loan you the big brother V60C 3x18650 for testing as well?

I typically leave it up to manufacturers/dealers to suggest and supply lights for review, but I can pass along your request.

Selfbuilt,
I just ordered one based on your review. I will probably do a emmiter swap for a better cool tint. The tint in your beam shot look awfully warm/green. Do you think this is the furthest XML thrower that you have tested? :-)

Selfbuilt,
I just ordered one based on your review. I will probably do a emmiter swap for a better cool tint. The tint in your beam shot look awfully warm/green. Do you think this is the furthest XML thrower that you have tested? :-)

It is certainly one of the best throwing 2x18650, XM-L lights I've seen (i.e. comparable to the Thrunite Catapult).

As for tint, it doesn't seen quite as warm in real life. Part of the issue is the variation between the hotspot/corona and and spill. Overall, looking at the whole beam up-close, it actually seems slightly purplish cool (due to the spill). But similar to my 4Sevens X10, there is a tint shift around hotspot, shifting to a warmer, slightly greenish tint.

I'm beginning to suspect that this sort of reflector design with a flat region around the base (near the emitter) contributes to a greater warm-tint shift in the hotspot/corona. So I don't know if an emitter swap will benefit you much.

From real life experience I see that my M3C4 Single XMl throw better than the Cat XML. But my M3X throws better than both. I was hoping the TC40S throw better than the M3X ... Guess not :-(

I don't have a M3X to compare, sorry. But at least I would expect throw as good (or slightly better) than your Thrunite or M3C4. FYI, overall reflector dimensions seem very similar between the T40CS and my M31.

Originally Posted by peterharvey73

Could the throw have something to do with the bezel, and hence the reflector diameters?

Yes and no - it is not just diameter at the opening that matters, but how deep the reflector is, and what its overall geometry (i.e. shape) is like. The T40CS has one of the widest and shallowest reflectors I've seen in this class, similar to my Olight M31. And like the M31, the T40CS tends to produce a very sharply defined hotspot. Hard to say more, since the M31 is SST-50 based (i.e. larger die), and I don't have a M3X.

Selfbuilt, I've been reading a lot of scientific posts by Saabluster, Dr Jones, Ra, GCBryan, Walterk etc, and it seems that a relatively deep reflector makes the spill narrow, and increases the prominence of the corona - which an expert like you would already know as a secondary band of light encircling the hot spot, but they say it doesn't actually increase the throw does it?

Could this also explain why the Sunwayman T40CS with it's big but shallow reflector, has a wide spill, with little corona; whereas a Catapult V3 with it's deep reflector has a noticeably narrow spill but prominent corona?

I actually find the presence of that corona more practical than the T40CS which appears dark surrounding the hot spot, but I don't know how I will feel when I receive my SC600 in a few days, because it has a very compact shallow reflector similar to the Sunwayman T40CS...

I'm beginning to suspect that this sort of reflector design with a flat region around the base (near the emitter) contributes to a greater warm-tint shift in the hotspot/corona. So I don't know if an emitter swap will benefit you much.

You are right! I just got a Trustfire T1 which also have a flat region around the emitter and the tint is very warm at the center. I swap several of my coolest tint but still no help! Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Selfbuilt, I've been reading a lot of scientific posts by Saabluster, Dr Jones, Ra, GCBryan, Walterk etc, and it seems that a relatively deep reflector makes the spill narrow, and increases the prominence of the corona - which an expert like you would already know as a secondary band of light encircling the hot spot, but they say it doesn't actually increase the throw does it?

I certainly agree with your first point - a relatively deep reflector makes the spill narrow. This is simple physics - a shallow reflector allows the light to spead out over a wider area, whereas a deeper reflector (with a more recessed emitter) restricts overall spillbeam width.

As for a deep reflector increasing the prominence of the corona, that is generally in keeping with my experiencee, but I can't speak with any certainty as to the cause. My observation is that "throwy" lights with sharply defined hotspots typically have wider reflectors that are not as relatively deep.

But as for depth "increasing" throw, that's a bit different. With a steep angle, you generally need pretty good depth to get significant throw. With a shallower angle, you typically need pretty good width to get significant throw. So depth is important for lights with narrower openings.

There is obviously a lot of thought that goes into these various reflector designs, and a lot of understanding of the physics behind them. I am not qualified to speak to all that, but I think the experience and direct comparison of beamshots is instructive. I know manufacturers have sometimes expected different results than what has actually been obtained (i.e. modeling these things are not easy).

Personally, I myself would also have thought that depth of reflector is proportional to throw because it helps to capture more photons from the emitter, but somehow Dr Jones & Walterk doesn't include reflector depth in their mathematical formula for throw; they only have a product of surface brightness, reflector diameter, and some co-efficient of reflector efficiency?

Selfbuilt, like you say, the greater relative depth, the narrower spill, and the corona are self explanatory, but interestingly I read a post just yesterday from gcbryan who says something along the lines of, the relatively narrower reflector will narrow the spill, and it will transfer this light to the corona - the secondary band of light around the hot spot; so interestingly, perhaps that's how the corona is generated?

Personally, I myself would also have thought that depth of reflector is proportional to throw because it helps to capture more photons from the emitter, but somehow Dr Jones & Walterk doesn't include reflector depth in their mathematical formula for throw; they only have a product of surface brightness, reflector diameter, and some co-efficient of reflector efficiency?

Maybe they made an assumption that the light source is reversed and it emits the light toward the bottom of reflector (instead of traditional LED that emits light toward the reflector opening) just like in recoil throwers. Or maybe they made an assumption that the light source emits the light in 360 degrees radius (just like HID or short arcs). Unfortunatelly, LEDs can emit the light only in certain angle, and with common design, toward the reflector opening. That's why the depth matters. With very, very shallow reflector there would be almost no light reflected - hence no throw.

Yes, good point.
If the reflector was as shallow as a plate on the dining table, how could it possibly efficiently capture the light from the emitter???

Actually, come to think of it, somehow the guys like bigchelis & gcbryan say that they have experimented with deeper reflectors, and it makes no difference to the throw, but maybe we must at least have a minimum amount of depth to capture the light at all, and beyond that depth, making it super deep, makes no difference to throw?

For example, it does seem hard to imagine how a 60mm diameter reflector, with a 2mm depth, could possibly maintain the Sunwayman T40CS's throw of 400+ meters???

I just got my T40CS today and just compared it to my solerforce masterpiece pro 1(my best thrower) at 500 feet shining it on a line if trees and to my surprise the T40CS was slightly brighter then my pro 1. It has and bigger hotspot so it can even light up more at 500 feet then the pro1 so the T40CS is now my best thrower. Finally found a light that can beat it.

I feel really sorry for Sunway, coz they're too slow to release their products.
This T40CS 3/4 size 2x18650 in-line and the big V60C 3x18650 parallel, both traditional throwers, should have been released on the market 12 months ago in 2010, to attain peak interest.
Presently, consumer interest is in triple XM-L flooders or flood-throw, like the TM11 - thus Sunway must release their triple XM-L fast.
Sunway make great products, but the timing is also very important...

We can notice that there is some flat area in the reflector of T40CS. Actually, when the reflector is shallower, the flat area is larger. The throw of the flashlight is determined by the effective projection area. For example, the diameter of reflector is 60mm, with 30mm flat area. Then the effective projection area is pi (30^2 - 15^2).

I haven't tested a TK41, but my experience of other high-output Fenix lights is that their reported lumen and throw specs are generally slightly higher than my results. So I would expect to see in the low-mid 700 estimated lumen range for output, and likely the mid-high 40K throw range. But that is just a very approximate "guestimate". At the end of the day, the beam profiles are probably fairly similar.

incredibly detailed writeup! I just joined cpf in search of a nice edc so i am browsing some of the older threads\ had to chime in on this one!

Glad you enjoyed the review. I wouldn't have thought of the T40CS as an edc (unless you are used to carrying a lightsaber, lol). But it does make a very good thrower/search & rescue light. The wider spillbeam may not be everyone's preference, but it is distinctive for this class.

Thanks for the awesome reviews Selfbuilt! This review in particular helped me to finally decide on the T40CS. I only have a few other lights to compare with, but the T40 blows away my Eagle Tac M2XC4. I've used it for several months and am very happy with the T40's performance and handling. I use it primarily for walking the dogs and for wilderness backpacking. The throw is great for spotting hazards either on our walk or in the mountains. The low beam is great around camp or for removing thorns from the dogs paws, etc...

I've done some unscientific tests for throw and find that 500M effective range is quite realistic. Aimed on mountain sides that I know are 500M away, I can actually make out the outlines of the mountain (on an otherwise dark night). Of course, our terrain is rather light in color, so it's easier to see, but that's still incredible. At 300-400M the light is very useful even for making out details. The desert air is quite clear and doesn't have much water vapor, so this may not be true in all environments.

I also very much like the electronic interface. Works quite well. My only complaint, if one can call it that, I have a difficult time finding the electronic switch by feel. I'm going to put some fancy knot work on the battery cylinder so that I can more easily find the switch by feel only.