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Emag won't shoot in electro mode

First of all, I am using a classic valve with level x tuned for a different body/rail/grip. But the emag valve needs a complete rebuild, guy obviously used co2 and turned all the orings into goop.

So here's what is happening. Using two fresh nine volts together in a series, (18.5 volts), the board boots up. Heck, the marker even pulls the solenoid down if you push the solenoid up, when the gun isn't aired up.

That's as far as we get for the good. Wen the gun is in electro mode, once I pull the trigger the board goes blank. And when the gun is aired up the solenoid does nothing. The hall sensor appears to work, as the board will not turn on when the trigger is pulled back. With the trigger forward, the board will blink the pixel. With the trigger pulled back, the pixel does not blink.

The trigger pull also seems to be rather heavy when the gun is in manual. Manipulating the sear when the gun is not aired up is also similarly stiff.

I got the sear assembly out. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for. There is some crap on it. I cleaned it.

Now here is where it gets interesting.

Without the gun being aired up, the solenoid vigorously clicks once it has been moved up. The sear assembly even moves fluidly within the solenoid. HOWEVER, once the sear is screwed into the rail, the stickiness returns.

I am guessing that the sear assembly is slightly bent. How can I find out which direction it is bent, where it is bent, and then unbend it?

With the gun aired up, the c-clip DOES rise into what I assume is the correct position. and when I pull the trigger the gun does nothing. No click. No air - solenoid clicks, quite vigorously, even with what I assume is a bend. With the gun aired up, no click.

The solenoid does appear to work. Just not when the gun is aired up :P

The classic on-off won't work with the emag lowers, especially with the 9V batteries. It requires too much force to activate and the two 9V battieris won't even deliver enough current to activate the solenoid at full power. Use the emag on-off assembly in the classic valve if the orings are ok on the emag on-off assembly.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

Just be aware, that guy's o-ring kits are comprised of Buna-N o-rings and not Urethane o-rings. The Buna-N's are cheaper, but will compress more and not last nearly as long as the Urethane o-rings that are recommended by AGD. (Though, the quad o-ring on an Emag on/off is Buna). However they will work, for awhile.

If you're into mags to keep, and will need to tech more than a couple valves from time to time, it may be worth it to make your own bulk kit by snagging a bunch of urethane o-rings off McMaster. Here's a link to the sizes (Classic and RT in first post; X-valve in first post of page 2): http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/a...ing-sizes.html

The classic on-off won't work with the emag lowers, especially with the 9V batteries. It requires too much force to activate and the two 9V battieris won't even deliver enough current to activate the solenoid at full power. Use the emag on-off assembly in the classic valve if the orings are ok on the emag on-off assembly.

BTW athomas, I love it when you verify what I post. Because that way I know I got it right, as I have learned the bulk of what I know about Automags from your helpful posts over the past few years. Thanks!

No athomas, the orings are gummy bears in the emag valve. Former user definitely only used CO2 in the gun.

CO2 won't make the orings gummy. CO2 causes them to wear or become deformed due to gas blow-by. Gummy orings are a result of using the wrong lubricant in the gun. Always use a good quality light synthetic lubricant in any device that uses urethane or buna orings.

Well, I think I fixed the bend, but the stickiness still remains (plunger definitely does not go up and down by gravity. In fact, the problem seems to have gotten worse.

Combine this with the fact that the hole for the sear doesn't line up with the rail (too far back) and I think the idiot I got the gun from monkeyed with the timing. Where and how much should I unscrew something?

Figured out I just screw the plunger. Got my calipers out. Plunger length was at almost 3.06! Eyeballed it down to 3.005 (calipers only go down to .01). It's moving easier. Of course, by screwing it I got to see how bent the sear assembly was. Trying to unbend it. Once that's done this problem should be resolved. At the very least it is moving much better now. Former owner had no respect for this fine piece of hardware.