The Undiscovered Sights, Sounds and Flavors of Portugal

Gail Aguiar is by far, one of the most prolific travel bloggers in Portugal, which is why we’re so keen to feature her! Filipino by birth, Gail has spent most of her life traveling, working and exploring the world; hence her insight comes from a place of deep wisdom and experience. Today, she joins us from Porto, where she’s offering up a series of fabulous food, culture and travel tips for your next excursion to Portugal!

Gail Aguiar’s Top Tips for Portugal

Open yourself to the Portuguese, accepting their loving, gracious hospitality.

Seek out Portugal’s best products that are made in small batches, in small places and are not for export.

Jump into the thematic festivals in small Portuguese towns. The local food, wine and culture are irresistible.

Begin every exchange in Portugal with a greeting and a smile. It’s opens hearts and doors across the country.

1. You’ve been travelling the world for a good portion of your life, so what makes Portugal such a enticing place to live and work?

I believe Portugal has a much better work/life balance than many places, including Canada. It’s partly the weather, the long coastline, the easy access to nature. But Portugal is also less urban, crime is low, there’s more solidarity here. As a foreigner, I feel welcomed and supported by Portuguese society, and despite the smaller economy, I’ve had offers and opportunities here I wasn’t given in Canada.

Living and working in Portugal comes with challenges, however. For example, wages need to keep up with the increase in the cost of living due to the current economic growth. I never want to characterize Portugal as a “cheap” country because it’s not cheap for Portuguese people. Foreigners (whether tourists or residents) expecting Portugal to keep consumer prices low don’t realize how that hinders the country’s prosperity. I would much rather take action to reduce the widespread poverty in Portugal and let prices increase BUT only if wages are in line with economic growth.

2. What small off-the-beat villages would you suggest people go to discover the food, wine and culture of Portugal?

I’m partial to the tiny, remote villages in Portugal, home to a few hundred people or less. (This includes my in-laws’ home village of Penela da Beira, where we stay 3-5 times a year.) Without the convenience of restaurants or even grocery stores, the villagers are resilient and resourceful, with a close relationship to the land. Visiting a village feels like time travel; you’ll still find donkeys pulling carts and livestock roaming freely. In the middle of nowhere lie ancient mills, centuries-old groves and orchards that have never seen a pesticide, specialty bread, crafts such as embroidery, a hundred ways to eat chestnuts, homemade wine and home distilleries. If you’re very lucky, you will spot somebody making something, get waved in closer to observe the process, and fed liberally with the bounty.

Some of my favourite local-colour type of experiences have been in tiny places like Pitões das Júnias (pop. 161) or Podence (pop. 252), where I saw the Caretos de Podence, colourful masked Carnival characters pretending to terrorize festival goers for Entrudo Chocalheiro — referred to as “the most authentic carnival in Portugal” (see also the Entrudo de Lazarim).

There’s a wonderful directory for villages in Portugal that I consult regularly and which is also in English: http://www.aldeiasportugal.pt/

3. Food is the cornerstone of much of your writing and photography. What dishes do you feel are overlooked that shouldn’t be?

In Portugal, the very regional dishes — especially the ones that don’t travel well — receive little attention in the rest of the country. For example, bolo do caco from Madeira, made with sweet potato and traditionally baked on a volcanic stone, is a rarity on the mainland. It is irresistible when piping hot and slathered with garlic butter. Recipe-wise, it can certainly be replicated — I’ve seen it recently in Porto — but without the volcanic stone, something is missing from the original. (Those who favour wood-fired pizza over oven-baked pizza, you’ll know what I mean.)

It’s puzzling because there are some things on the Madeiran menu like milho frito (fried cornmeal) that are practically unheard of on the mainland, and I don’t know why. It’s delicious!

Other very regional foods that I like to travel for include: Pão de Ló de Ovar (I’m not even a fan of regular pão de ló, but Ovar’s version of this sponge cake, eaten with a spoon, is gooey goodness), bôla de carne de Lamego (specifically, Carne de Porco em Vinha de Alhos from Pastelaria de Sé in Lamego which is a savoury cake filled with pork marinated in wine and garlic), leitão (suckling pig) from Bairrada accompanied by an Anselmo Mendes vinho verde (green wine), to name but a few!

Portugal’s best products are made in small batches in small places and not for export, which is why I always encourage people to travel around the country to make these discoveries at the source. (Also because the best stuff is without preservatives, made fresh and to be eaten right away.) Not to mention the makers are enormously proud of their work and only too happy to tell you the stories behind the products (there’s always a story and it usually involves their family).

4. From surfing to skydiving, Portugal offers a wide range of incredible experiences. What have been some of your absolute favorites?

My favourite experiences in Portugal are the thematic festivals in small towns. Many are ostensibly religious, but nobody cares if you’re religious or not, it’s a celebration invariably accompanied by local food and drink. Everyone in town participates in some way, from young to old.

There are far more festivals in Portugal than is humanly possible to attend — just pick your fancy. There are festivals honouring patron saints, food-related festivals like the Festa do Caldo (Broth Festival) in Quintandono (a restored schist village) or the octopus festival in Zambujeira do Mar, an almond blossom festival in Vila Nova de Foz Côa, the spectacle that is Festa dos Tabuleiros (Trays Festival) in Tomar that takes place every four years, the Festas do Povo (People Festival) in Campo Maior where the streets are decked out competitively in handcrafted paper flowers — a festival so labour-intensive that it only takes place when the residents decide they’re ready to host the party again.

There are festivals for practically anything, but I wanted to highlight the fact that they’re a huge labour of love by the townsfolk and purely for community spirit. This is an area where Portugal shines.

5. If there was one travel tip you would give someone visiting Portugal, what would it be?

Begin every exchange in Portugal with a greeting (bom dia before lunch, boa tarde after lunch, boa noite after dark) and a big smile. It’s as effective as saying “please” or “excuse me” and sets the tone for the exchange, especially if that’s all the Portuguese you know.

6. Finally, do you have any sites, events, projects, or other cool things you want to plug or share with our audience?

I’ve just launched an interview series with Portuguese artists, part of a wider series of interviews with Portuguese (PT/EN). The artist series is up on the blog now, the first artist is Daniel Eime.

Find Gail Aguiar

Gail Aguiar is a Philippines-born, Canadian-raised freelance photographer who made Portugal home in late 2013, six countries and three continents later. Her daily blog, Gail at Large, chronicles more than 15 years of travel-centric living through a unique lens as a 4x expat. She first earned her photographer stripes in urban Toronto and is now focused on Portuguese culture and practicing her nasalized vowels. She lives in photogenic Porto with her Portuguese husband and their rescue dog from Guimarães.

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This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.

Madeira Market & Wine Tour

About Gabriella Opaz

Born and bred in Chicago, Gabriella is the co-founder and Editor-and-Chief of Catavino. As an award-winning speaker and writer, she uses stories to create a human connection between worlds that would otherwise never converge. Her recently published book, "The Undiscovered Food Stories of Northern Portugal" was inspired by the alluring grandmother stories inside Porto's centenarian open-air market, Mercado Bolhão.

Facebook Reviews

What an amazing trip with a fantastic group of people. It was an education about wine we couldn't have experienced anywhere else. Our guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgable and brought great enthusiasm to the experience.

Fantastic tour of the Portugal wine country organized and conducted by the Catavino team. Echoing the comments of the previous reviews below, my wife and I experienced one memorable experience topped each day by the next memorable experience. A week of friendship, learning and interacting all in an environment that was stimulating and stress free. Kudos to Catavino for a wonderful and supremely well organized trip.

Having recently completed Catavino's 2017 Custom Harvest Tour, I am still basking in the afterglow of a full week of cushy hotels, beautiful landscapes, long, succulent dinners highlighting the depth of Portuguese cuisine, and, of course, the spectacular wines from the best regions of Portugal. Catavino has crafted a harvest experience that uniquely capitalizes on Ryan's personal relationships with some of Portugal's preeminent winemakers. This allows us into their cellars for intimate tastings and onto their terraces for wonderful lunches personally hosted by the owners and winemakers. It is a wonderful learning experience for novices and wine geeks alike. Ryan is a great host, and his knowledge and insights add immensely to the experience. This was my second Harvest Tour with Catavino and they continue to deliver a very satisfying week of Portuguese culture, food and wine. A short review can't do justice to a week long trip. I highly recommend that you sign on to one of their trips and find out for yourself!

Our Fall Harvest trip through the Douro valley led by Ryan Opaz and organized by the talented team at Catavino was truly a once in a lifetime experience (well maybe twice)! This was an ongoing visual and sensory experience from start to finish with several “pinch yourself” moments along the way. Like most learning experiences I feel like I’ve retained a fraction of what I learned about the wines and cuisine or Portugal. I guess that’s a reason to do it again

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

The Catavino team is world class. A tour with them is guaranteed to be something that you won't forget.
They show you a true picture of what goes on, busting myths about the wine and port industry to show you the real side of Douro. Their level of knowledge is incredible, and we had access to wine tasting, grape stomping and meet the faces behind the wine industry. I can't even begin to describe the amazing lunch at the farm, overlooking the most spectacular views that only the Douro provides - breath taking!!
It is guaranteed to be filled with passion and love, leaving you with a yearning to come back time and time again.
Can't recommend this enough.

My husband and I had a wonderful day on a private tour with Ryan throughout the Douro Valley. He is extremely knowledgeable and helped us learn to appreciate Port. Beyond the wonderful private tasting sessions, he also brought us to a delicious lunch at a local Portuguese restaurant. Throughout the entire day, he provided us with tips and recommendations for the remainder of our journey throughout Portugal. The whole day was the highlight of our trip! We would HIGHLY recommend it!

Incredible experience in a beautiful city. Mariana was an amazing guide - we learned so much, sampled some amazing food, and had fun doing it. Two couples were with our 15- and 17-month-old boys and we never felt rushed or out of place. Highly recommend!

Ana arranged a trip for my client through Portugal. My client is a single woman traveling alone and she had the time of her life! I felt very good about having her in Catavino's hands. Thank you for introducing her to Portugal in such a wonderful manner.

I can only second the comments written here. Catavino is highly professional and will stop at nothing to give you an incredible, unforgettable time. All the biggest highlights from my recent trip to Portugal and Spain were made possible by Catavino. I know how much work goes into it- thank you so much Ryan and team. I'd trust you with my holidays any time.

We were part of the 2016 Harvest Tour and had the experience of a lifetime! The Douro Valley is breathtakingly beautiful and our guides were wonderful. Ryan and Gabriella must have called in all of their personal favors because we met and drank wine with many winemakers, a wine shop owner and tasted '72 port which Oscar Quevedo's grandfather had made. Doesn't get any more special than that! Of course, gourmet food at every meal as well. We'll be back!!

When there were hiccups in the itinerary; Catavino was nothing but gracious. They understood what our visit meant to us & offered us fantastic guides & activities. We ooh'ed & aah'ed, ate & drank almost too well (!) & we laughed for days. Deep thanks.

No enough words, even for a wordsmith like me, to say how wonderful it was spending time with Gabriella and Ryan. Our tour with Ryan as our guide to the Douro Valley was spectacular. Excellent wines, wonderful views, terrific people and a delightful lunch topped off with a lovely boat ride. Highly recommended!!

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Google Reviews

This team is first class, they are knowledgeable of all areas of wine, and the Douro. If you are looking for something to do when in Porto I cant recommend their tours enough - first class.
Many places here say they offer the authentic version of Porto, but rarely do - these tours go into places that others don't, they bust the myths of wine, Port and give you the real insights, show you the faces behind the wine.
The tours offered here give you something that is unique, filled with passion and love for this wonderful city and surrounding areas.

Anita Breland

13:51 19 Sep 17

Looking to enjoy a great excursion through some of the world's most beautiful vineyards? Our group's tour off the beaten path with Catavino was a carefree day of discovery in fine company, and with memorable food and wine. A big plus was an opportunity to spend time with a winemaker happy to share his family story, expertise and excellent wine. I cannot think of a better way to experience the authentic Douro!

Cornell Anderson

11:23 04 Oct 17

We just completed a Fall Harvest tour that was organized and led by Catavino Tours. The entire experience was wonderful and met all of our expectations. The tour included several days in and near Lisbon, and then five days in Porto and the wineries and vineyards along the Douro River. All aspects of the tour were planned to provide an exceptional experience for our group of eleven friends. Our tour guide, Ryan Opaz, was extremely knowledgeable about the wines, the Quintas, the history of Port and Portuguese table wine and the country of Portugal. Finally, the food was amazing and included several dinners and lunches with wine makers who were personally know by Ryan. The tour and experience could not have been better!

Julie Dawn Fox

14:18 21 Sep 17

Just spent a wonderful day in the Douro wine region with the Catavino team and a local winemaker. We had breathtaking views of a side of the Douro that most visitors don't get to see, knowledgeable explanations of the grapes, wines and processes and of course, delicious table and port wines, some poured straight from the barrel. The highlight of the day was the chance to join the Purple Foot Club by treading grapes in stone tanks.

Flavio Bastos Amiel

09:53 19 Sep 17

Yesterday we had the chance to visit a few places in the Douro with Catavino. We had the chance to meet one very young producer (Oscar Quevedo: thanks!) who did a complete tour through one of his vineyards and educated us on the different types of grapes the Douro has to offer and how the wine in this winery is made. The highlight was a great food experience in the winery while staring at the amazing Douro landscape, while sipping whites, red and port wine from the same house. Thanks!!

Tom Fakler

09:26 15 Nov 17

Outstanding day trip from Porto with Catavino!
We spent a day off the beaten path in the Douro wine region and its spectacular scenery. We visited a winery where the vintner gave us the most authentic and informative tour of the vineyards and wine cellar we have had. We tasted this year’s new wine and port from a 10,000-liter cask. We had a gourmet lunch with wines perfectly paired.
Our tour was in the harvest season and we were able to participate in the traditional stomping of grapes in a granite lagar. It was a fun time for all!
Catavino and team know the area and vintners well, and this made our day truly special.

David Waldschmidt

15:35 15 Oct 17

My wife and I had a first rate experience touring the wine country in Portugal. Catavino Tours organized the trip for us and friends. The tour was organized down to the most specific details permitting us an experience unencumbered with worry or stress. Best of all, Catavino is extremely well versed in the wine business, the wine country and the people behind the wineries. As a result, we were treated to experiences and face to face interactions that we would never have had on our own or with someone less tied into the art of making wine.