Copy an electric neck that you like. Ensure, however, that the depth will work with your chosen truss rod (i.e. enough wood surrounding the truss rod). If the profile is small enough, you might consider reinforcing the neck to make it stiffer. Some narrow/thin mahogany necks on some instruments are like whammy bars: they move all over the place, making accurate intonation wishful thinking.

Just a quick update on my build with some pictures.
I routed the binding channels and bent the maple bindings. It was tricky to get them bent, for they needed much more moisture than the rosewood sides to prevent splitting.

Hope you like how it looks.

I'm about to glue the bindings in place with some abalone strips and purflings.
Think I'll apply shellac first, and once all bindings and purfligs are fitted in place,use thin CA glue like I did when gluing the rosette. The thing is the bindings need quite some pressure on the guitar's waist to fit perfectly into the binding channel.

How could I fix the binding in place in that area prior to applying the CA glue? Using tape would not seem enough. Any advice?

Just a quick update on my build with some pictures.
I routed the binding channels and bent the maple bindings. It was tricky to get them bent, for they needed much more moisture than the rosewood sides to prevent splitting.

How could I fix the binding in place in that area prior to applying the CA glue? Using tape would not seem enough. Any advice?

Are you using solid abalone or Zipflex? Solid abalone is usually installed after the balance of binding/purfling is glued with a temporary plastic spacer strip. Wood binding adheres great with wood glue as long as all of the other purfling is wood. Then use CA with the Zipflex.

With Zipflex I use elastic bands tape. But you need to be careful because CA also sticks to the bands. Waxed paper solves that problem.

Work your way around the perimeter with the CA. Move the bands laterally as you move along. Be sure that the Zipflex surface is below the finished surface and covered with CA. The abalone is only a few mils thick and could be scraped off if too high.

I'm too late to help on the bridge plate question, but if it's any help for anyone else here's a quick shot of a small body I'm doing just prior to closing the box.

When I get done with this one I intend to post the CAD print of the entire instrument. It's a bit unusual as an all mahogany 14 fret with deep unbound body with an arm bevel. It's slightly smaller than a 00, but not "parlor-sized". X brace and tone bars are 5/16" wide but relatively short, so it's not as over-braced as it might appear.

Iím not sure that Iíve fully understood the issue you are having. Assuming I have ...

I buy wood veneer and fiber sheets to make my own purfling. I cut single strips, one at a time by placing a long straight edge on the sheet of veneer or fiber. I then use a sharp knife to cut against the straight edge. It works quite well and doesnít take much time.

I need to cut this strip into two 5mm x 1000mm x 1.5mm smaller strips.

If the fibre sheets were not glued, I could easily cut them with my veneer saw and straight edge, or even with some scissors, but since they are already glued, the strip is too thick for the veneer saw to cut that deep.
Tried with a sharp marking knife too, but again the strip was too thick to be cut.