I read your post " The effective motor shaft length is only 10 mm" as the shaft extends past the bulkhead 10mm because to be effective it would have to be usable.

A pic would be great

Yes, I can see how my description could be misunderstood. I suppose I should have said "the INSTALLED effective motor shaft length available for the prop collet is reduced to around 1.5mm". Not enough for a safe installation I think.

I just put in my box-stock Sirens first (and only flight...) and much to my delight it went remarkably well

With the brushed motor '600' throttle at about 66% the model was hand launched and with the zero/zero setting on all surfaces and balanced about 1/3 from LE it took to the air in a controlled manner. More power = stronger climb of about 40 degrees with ease.

This model glides FAST. after about 8 minutes with some wide circle thermaling, i set up for a very-very-very long approach and needed all of it. About 150~200yds into the wind was enough to land and exhale.

I am really glad i learned to fly the power planes like the eflite T-28 because this required more power flying skills(watching out for tip stalling, adverse yaw, stall avoidance with motor control, etc) than RES glider skills.

When i bought the box-stock plane/motor/esc package i had just reentered the hobby after about 18 year abscence and put the model aside as too fast and different for my skill set. I had the building skills part of the process but the motor and aileron/elevator part of it was way beyond my RES Oly2 and free-flight flying skills.

Moving forward 3+ years and actively building/flying for the past 2 years, i finished up the assembly by substituting the 1lb nicads for a 2200mah 40c 7.4 HK lipo, still using the Tower brushed '600' motor,30A+ brushed ESC and folding prop.

The biggest part for me was figuring how to make all the wiring for battery and esc work in the narrow fuse and mounting it all securely. As it went the Airtronics 6ch 2.4ghz RX sits in the rear most fuse cutout under wing hold down screw(antenna sticking out vent hole), esc in next forward fuse cutout , and 2s lipo battery velcro'd on a removable cut down paint-stiring stick that slide in/latches to last forward fuse cutout. The esc, motor, and lipo are all connected by EC3 plugs which i find much easier to use than the Deans.

This week i will move the controls from ch2 only to ch2 + ch6 so i can set up the spoilerons (must have..) and aileron differential. I really miss my ch 4 rudder after learning how to use it

It was worth learning the prop flyer skills to mesh with the glider platform and am looking forward to flying it again....in a much more open space.

Hi Hance,
I think you could use more power. See my post #1118 on previous page, plenty of warmliner peformance, feels like a hotliner in my brain...
Not too expensive, two batts., ESC, and motor cost less than your motor did when new!
Good Flying,
John

Oh wow, then yes - you are probably right around "stock" power and it flies *exactly* as intended by the manufacturer. That is about half of what most of us fly on, however. Double you battery capacity (i.e. 4000-5000mAh) and get an 80A ESC or better, and prop for 80A or so (I think the 14.5x14 is on mine still)..
..a

Oh wow, then yes - you are probably right around "stock" power and it flies *exactly* as intended by the manufacturer. That is about half of what most of us fly on, however. Double you battery capacity (i.e. 4000-5000mAh) and get an 80A ESC or better, and prop for 80A or so (I think the 14.5x14 is on mine still)..
..a

Thanks for the advice. I am guessing you are running two packs in parallel to fit that much capacity in the plane. I didn't know the kontronic could handle that much power even in short bursts I feel an upgraded esc is in the works. I used to have a multiplex blizzard that was around 650 watts if I could get the siren up to that level of performance I would be happy.

If the kontronic dies I will throw a ritewing motor in it I have one on order that will take 2000 watts if you don't pound on it all the time.