BoozeRS05 Offline

LegacyLiving

Visitor Messages

"oh yea, to answer your question, I can drive a manual, but there's always more to learn about it.. I will NEVER go back to automatic, no matter how congested DC gets.. I live for that 1 minute of approaching the off-ramp..

"5th gear entry.. clutch in, rev match, downshift, clutch out.. brakes, clutch in again, heel-toe, shift, clutch out, turn-in, ease back on the gas for that oh-so-awesome 3rd gear power-through the off-ramp feeling" all of this happens in a matter of seconds.. it feels soo good to feel that kind of artwork

"If you want some random general info about the JDM engines... EJ20G/K/R/7's are all great engines to use if you want 2L turbo (JDM turbo).

EJ20G's come from gen 1 legacy RS/GT's, and version 1/2 wrx/STi's - these engines have very strong closed deck blocks. Also, unlike their US counterpart (the EJ22T), the 20G's are DOHC and intercooled (Water to air intercooler).

EJ20K's are open deck, and come from V3/4 STi's. They are very very good engines, simple yet effective. They are OBD-1 ECU controlled, can be modded heaps and will still run perfectly on the simple ECU. No TGV's or EVCS or anything fancy - they're just a pure engine which i love.

EJ20R's are the Twin turbo versions of the K's, that came on the gen 2 legacy GTB/RSB's. They have the same injectors, loom, and everything. The R is reputable for blowing big end bearings though - well worth buying, then rebuilding.

EJ207's are the V7+ STi engines. Have semi-closed-deck blocks.

The R's and K's are essentially the same, only the R comes with twin turbo gear which you will need to swap with single turbo stuff (do NOT even consider twin turbo...) The benefit to the R is that it's cheeeeap, but just as good as the K."

After years of logging it is crystal clear that just because you have heat coming out of the vents and the Temp Gauge reads warm.... don't believe your car is ready to romp. You have to have some road time, some miles at speed. The transmission must be warmed up, your differentials, and don't forget the CV joints in your axels.

The car heats up unevenly in other words. From variations inside the engine itself to the driveline there are not only the lubricants to consider but the metals as well.

It works the other way somewhat, too. Once you have pounded on the car and have it heatsoaked you have gone the other direction. Brake systems are another temperature consideration.

Another negative related to excessive idling, it has a tendency to skew your fuel trims. Idle too long and it can affect your full throttle operation. If you're going to sit for a while, turn it off."

"A properly tuned Sube H4 (and I have five - with about 400K miles between the bunch), will be buttery smooth. I mentioned the vacuum leak as a source of vibration/"cammed-engine" shake, because my 05 LGT was getting to the point where even my wife noticed it. Cause: Vacuum line below the intercooler was off. No engine, that I've owned (H4, I4, I6, V6, V8) would ever run smoothly with a vacuum leak. And you really notice it on an H4. Other sources of vibration on an H4 (and, again, this is based on personal experience) are bad spark plug, bad plug wire(s), failing coil pack, fouled plug wires, fouled coil pack connectors, bad ignitor, dirty throttle body, bad fuel, leaking head gasket, and jumped timing belt to name the few that come immediately to mind. Listen to the boxer burble - if it's not burbling, it's not happy."SBT