Versace / Resort 2015

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Versace isn’t a house that’s ever prescribed to the notion of an all-black working wardrobe, and their early morning presentation provided a jolt to the senses to rival an energy drink, courtesy of a optimistic mix of lilac (which has been making the rounds this season, popping up at Michael Kors, Suno, Max Mara, Alexander Wang, and Proenza Schouler), a rosy strawberry shade and a neon take on chartreuse the house called “lime,” but that could just as easily go by “electric daisy.” If that reference brings to mind the music festival, it is not by accident: this collection played directly into the label’s reputation as a favorite of musicians looking to make a sartorial splash. Many of the looks seemed fit for MTV (if MTV still featured musicians with any regularity)– gilded Medusas dangled, pendant-like from dual-zips on dresses and open-weave cardigan jackets and gazed up, the size of fists, from atop a pair of patent skate shoes.

The silhouettes had a vibrancy too, running from short-and-swinging ‘60s—A-line skirts and simple shifts rendered in graphic, printed silks, with subtle references to archival prints. Evening was represented by a black tuxedo and one-shouldered gown, both Swarovski-accented, but there were also standout pieces that were geared towards the everyday errands and appointments for the morning after the party, like technically impressive knits, and oversized parka-style jackets in shimmering, double-faced silk.