Don't drive too fast on Austin Highway, near Walzem Road, or else you'll miss the barbecue
over at The Big Bib.

It's a small place with only a few tables and, overall, the dishes are tasty. A few, however, especially stand out and serve as the real attractions.

The best meats here are poultry and pork. The classic Texas brisket has good smoke, spice rub and flavor in the meat. There's nothing to complain about, and it's better than many, but it's not the best item here.

An order of smoked turkey, on the other hand, was something special. Slices of tender breast meat had just the right smokiness but not so much that it overpowered the meat.

The chicken leg quarters, so often a dry afterthought at many places, instead practically burst with juiciness. The smoking process didn't interfere with the natural moisture of the dark meat. Between the smoke and spice rub, these birds don't need any sauce to add flavor.

That sauce, by the way, is best used very sparingly. This is one of those cases where more than a little is too much.

That's especially true in the pulled pork. The meat is more of a chopped pork loin than a traditional pulled pork, but it's so tasty that the nomenclature doesn't matter. That savory and slightly spicy meat receives a light drizzle of the sweet and spicy barbecue sauce.

Make no mistake, this sauce has a nice spice kick and a strong sweetness. Just a little on top of the pork makes the outstanding mixture come together.

But dip a piece of brisket, chicken or turkey into the sauce, and those intense flavors from the sauce compete with and overwhelm the meat.

Among the sides, chili beans (pinto beans with bits of chopped brisket) stood out as a favorite, and even though a cherry cobbler's filling tasted as though it was canned but doctored up a bit, the crust was nevertheless crisp and memorable.

Seeing the tables fill up quickly during a recent lunch, along with a brisk takeout business, it's easy to see that this has become a neighborhood favorite.