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This amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions- opens in a new window or tabThis amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions- opens in a new window or tab

Notice. This generation of adapters has been discontinued. Please see my eBay store http://stores.ebay.ca/edmikadotcom to find the updated versions for all my EOS kits. For latest kit, see chart below.

January 28, 2014 update: I have developed new design polymer rear lens caps that are half the height of normal EOS caps and wider so you can stand your lens on the cap with more security and you can put the cap in your pocket without a big bump showing. I will be including one of these new EdCaps with each kit sold.

June 23,2013 update: I will no longer be including a rear lens cap or any screwdrivers with my kits anymore. The reasons for not including caps are the standard EOS caps are too tall to send in letter mail and I am told the reason there is often a delay in international customers getting the kits is that the extra thickness is causing jams in automatic letter sorting equipment and extra customs attention. For a while now I have been sending wooden rear lens caps that are less tall but they take as long for me to machine as the adapter and this is really slowing down my limited production time on my personal garage vertical CNC mill. Plus the wood makes a real mess of my garage and quickly causes a fire hazard with all the dust. The reason I am dropping the screwdrivers is that the small inexpensive ones I have been sending with some kits are not very good, this causes a greater risk of screw heads stripping than using a high quality larger grip phillips 0 or 00 drivers that can be found at any worldwide local hardware store. A larger grip allows more downwards force to be applied which is very important in minimizing screw head damage. Another reason I am dropping the small sharp screwdrivers is that I think it will again help minimize customs inspection slow downs and reduce risks of package damage. I am sorry for any inconvenience this causes anyone but I am just trying to put my limited time and focus on developing and producing the highest quality EOS conversion kits I can and help make sure they can arrive to my worldwide customers as safely and quickly as possible.

Finally its here, the FD 55mm 1.2 Chrome Nose and SSC EOS lens mount swap kit. WARNING: THIS KIT IS NOT FOR THE FD55MM 1.2 SSC ASPHERICAL VERSION, that listing is here http://www.ebay.ca/itm/EdMika-Canon-FD-55mm-1-2-Aspherical-AL-EOS-brass-conversion-kit-/180898801729?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item2a1e68a841&_uhb=1#ht_1154wt_1413 . Similar in concept to the popular EdMika FL 55mm 1.2 kit, this one also removes the old mount and replaces it with a new one without any damage or modification to the original lens hardware and is fully reversible in minutes. Made near Barrie Ontario Canada in our garage using our own CNC computer controlled mill this kit uses 55% more raw brass than the FL kit and provides an additional internal linkage to connect the aperture ring to the diaphragm. The performance of this lens is just fantastic and the look and feel is unlike anything you may be used to if only shooting with modern plastic body EF lenses. Each kit comes with a set of body mount screws, the internal aperture linkage (that I call the EdLinkFD551.2) and the main brass EF mount adapter body with a mounted Gen4 Dandelion reporting chip pre-programmed to report a 55mm focal length and 1.2 aperture. As is the case with the FL kit, the converted lens works perfectly with no mirror interference with any 1.6 crop body Canon DSLR like the 7D, 60D and rebel as well as 1.3 crop bodies like the 1D4 and 1D3 but a 5D,5D2,5D3 and 6D have plastic mirror frame to lens contact between 25 feet/10 meters and infinity (but do no damage to either part) so you need to use live view on distant targets (unfortunately 5D classic has no live view though). The 5D3 has a new lower profile plastic mirror frame and can shoot to about 300 feet/100 meters before mirror contact. The lenses and camera bodies pictured are for illustration purposes only and are not included. Lens conversions are done at your own risk, this mount swap is still quite easy but there is always some small chance of lens damage.

Manual focus is nothing to be afraid of for those looking for a serious performance upgrade path on a budget, in extreme low light where this lens likes to play I normally don’t trust the contrast detection autofocus of my camera and manually focus anyway and in good light I want big depth of field so I set the lens at f/11 and everything from 20 feet to infinity is crisp and in focus. To help overcome the lack of focusing screens on most DSLR cameras the installed chip triggers your camera’s autofocus system allowing a focus confirmation in the form of a beep or preventing a picture to be taken until a target is locked on depending on how you setup your camera. This method is not quite as accurate as live preview but works ok, especially if you use the chip programming through the camera to tune (micro adjust) focus for your particular lens copy. The chip also plays important roles in helping ensure proper exposure is achieved when shooing in Aperture Priority and Program camera modes as well as some bodies will detect a lens but no electrical contacts and will generate an error code when trying to shoot (EOS-3). Using this all-manual lens has been joy rather than a limitation. Beyond more than a low cost and high performance upgrade path for entry level equipment shooters I expect photographic enthusiasts will appreciate the manual only control and will want to combine the Canon's latest high ISO low light performance with a fast aperture lens with unique colour and bokeh signatures. Also note that the Dandelion chip has issues with the 7D camera body, it will work ok for stills but for videos you will have to tape over the chip contacts and shoot in AV mode or you will get white overblown metering spikes when the chip loses signal now and then. I sell all my adapters without the chip for 20 dollars less, just send me a note and I will refund the 10 dollars if you don't want a chip.

Please again note this is for the adapter kit and not the lens, I have it marked as used on eBay since the default search for the lens that this kit converts only lists used but of course you will be getting a new adapter.

I ship worldwide with tracking. If your adapter does not arrive (usually because of customs delays) I refund or send a replacement at 4 weeks from sale date if shipped within North America and 5 weeks for everywhere else. Please be patient, some countries like Germany like to have the kits sit for weeks in customs. If you want to minimize the risk of delays you can message me your phone number and I can include it on the package since some country tax offices will call you if they are holding the package until custom fees are paid.

Basic conversion instructions below or watch the video.

1. Unscrew the 3 main screws holding the original silver FD ring mount using either the provided flat or phillips screwdrivers.

2. Take the original mount off taking care not to lose the small pin and spring, it helps doing it with the mount at the bottom and lens at the top when separating.

4. Replace this stop with the EdLinkFD551.2 and reuse the original screws placing them roughly in the middle of the slots but don't fully tighten them.

5. Make sure the diaphragm just becomes fully open when the aperture ring is set to 1.2 by shifting the EdLink backwards or forwards and then tighten down.

6. Mount the main brass adapter body with the chip at the opposite side to the mark/line showing distance and line up the 3 holes.

7. Reinstall the 3 original main screws. Because of reports that some original screws can get damaged or in one case I have hear from a buyer where the originals have been slightly too long and bottomed out I now include a set of 3 replacement screws and a spare that you can choose to use instead. Thats it, you are done and ready to shoot. Make sure you keep the original mount and metal stop safely stored so you can go back to original again if you wish. Please respect vintage gear.

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