ALTHOUGH pasta has existed for years in French cuisine - 16th- century French cookbooks offer recipes for ravioli - its importance in the French diet evolved only recently. Today fresh pasta can be found at many cheese shops and charcuteries, while pasta appears on menus all over the country, in many cases replacing the potato as a side dish. In the kitchens at Tour d'Argent pasta is prepared fresh daily, while such restaurants as Rostang and Jamin include ravioli or pasta on the menu throughout the year. At Jules Verne, in the Eiffel Tower, the menu features a warm salad combining fresh fettuccine and sole in a light, creamy dressing, while at La Cantine des Gourmets goat cheese-filled ravioli floats in a rich duck stock, surrounded by slices of rosy duck and chunks of fresh artichoke hearts. This recipe comes from Colette Dejean of Chez Toutone, a small Left Bank restaurant.

Preparation

In 6-quart Dutch oven add white wine, mussels and clams and bring wine to boil over high heat. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, or just until mussels and clams open. Do not overcook. Remove from heat, strain and discard liquid and any mussels or clams that do not open.

Cool slightly and when not too hot to touch, remove mussels and clams from shells and set aside.

Bring large pot of salted water to rolling boil. Add pasta and cook just until tender but not soft. Drain.

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