it died from a tiny scratch of pencil... very cheap ram... my last ran fine with 2.3 (a short time) until i removed it. but no artifacts or even something in this direction. just heat-crashes because of the vf-900.

are RMAs of RMA´s accepted? i mean, do they make problems if an RMA-Part gets RMA´d?

it died from a tiny scratch of pencil... very cheap ram... my last ran fine with 2.3 (a short time) until i removed it. but no artifacts or even something in this direction. just heat-crashes because of the vf-900.

are RMAs of RMA´s accepted? i mean, do they make problems if an RMA-Part gets RMA´d?

ill send the card in on monday... it not even 2 weeks here then...

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Yes, you can RMA an RMA, as long as the warranty is still good on the original card.

And are you trying to use a vf-900 on these cards? If so, stop it. lol. The vf-900 is overpowered by these cards.

Hey velvet you might have read about peltier cells , haven't you ? I found out they're really cheap in my country ! lol , do you think is a good method for cooling a vga? I know they're really cool as much as you manage to keep the hot side cool.

But what i don't know is that issue with the power ,I mean there are some cells working at 136 watt , some other at less power range , maybe 56 watt in fact those are cheaper...
I'll keep gathering intel in order to get the best option

if you plan on using peltiers, combine them with a watercooling loop and insulation... if one fails, your card isnt too prone to dying... if you put the peltier directly on the core, chances are high, that if it fails, your card will fry in seconds, or if youre lucky, it will shutdown immediatly...

i wouldnt use peltiers for anything other than chilling water. its too dangerous, even if its cheap and effective (if you plan on removing the additional peltier heat, dont use air cooling.... this could be toasty in a case, you should at least use water... so you see... peltiers are not the best idea, you WILL have to invest in Water, if you want to keep it cool AND safe)

You need to water cool a peltier for it to be effective. You should also have a dedicated power supple, just for the peltier. Now, throw in the fact that most gpu water blocks can only fit 40x40mm peltiers, and you can only get 80w peltiers in 12v. Not worth the effort at all. You could look at 24v peltiers in 40x40mm, but then you need to buy a 24v peltier power supple, which is usually a little more expensive.

It actually becomes very expensive to run peltier cooling on your graphics card. It's not worth the trouble.

ok guys i did the hardmod! i figured someone on the forums had to right??? well here it is in all its glory the core resister need to still be glued down same with the vcore/vmem molex reader but its done all the same soon as i plug it in ill hit you up with screen shots!!!

ok guys i did the hardmod! i figured someone on the forums had to right??? well here it is in all its glory the core resister need to still be glued down same with the vcore/vmem molex reader but its done all the same soon as i plug it in ill hit you up with screen shots!!!

ok guys i did the hardmod! i figured someone on the forums had to right??? well here it is in all its glory the core resister need to still be glued down same with the vcore/vmem molex reader but its done all the same soon as i plug it in ill hit you up with screen shots!!!

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let's see how high you can clock that sucker.
penciling mine game a 225MHz increase over stock

ok guys i did the hardmod! i figured someone on the forums had to right??? well here it is in all its glory the core resister need to still be glued down same with the vcore/vmem molex reader but its done all the same soon as i plug it in ill hit you up with screen shots!!!

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Be careful with the mem voltage. My experience with it shows that GDDR3 is pretty sensitive. I quit doing vmem mods for 24/7 use. I do it on benching cards only.

And I vmodded my 4850 30 minutes after I got it. Popped it in to make sure it wasn't DOA, took it back out, fired up the soldering iron, did the vgpu mod, threw a water block on it, and threw it back in. lol.

Thanks PVT. I have so much experience in electronics, that I just assume that everyone else understands the basic principles.

@theorw - It's as PVT says. The voltage will be too high if you use a 20k ohm resistor. The lower the resistance, the higher the voltage. You need a 100k ohm 15(or higher) turn resistor for this.

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I know the ohms law guys...
Just wanted to hear an explanation.I am studying electrology at uni and not electronics(houses are different that PCs...),i think the next year maybe...
Anyway i just put 2 20kohm+a fixed 50ohms soldered together and it worked
Now i get like 0.8 more volts and still i have to max out the 2nd 20ohm resistor!
The problem is this.When i have my card @820 @1,30 volts it runs flawlessly every bench and game but @ 1,38 volts the system will shut down after 5 minutes.And NO its not overheating...
Maybe my PSU is maxed out then?

I know the ohms law guys...
Just wanted to hear an explanation.I am studying electrology at uni and not electronics(houses are different that PCs...),i think the next year maybe...
Anyway i just put 2 20kohm+a fixed 50ohms soldered together and it worked
Now i get like 0.8 more volts and still i have to max out the 2nd 20ohm resistor!
The problem is this.When i have my card @820 @1,30 volts it runs flawlessly every bench and game but @ 1,38 volts the system will shut down after 5 minutes.And NO its not overheating...
Maybe my PSU is maxed out then?

Not idle.Load.
Idle i get 1,29volts.
gpuz 'course...
U reckon the card cant handle it?Should admit its almost a year @1,33volts@821mhz core and 1200mem.
Could it be that the vrms have aged faster?Or that the card cant handle that much volts?
I got musashi on it,u keep in mind!