Climbing Sections:

About Cap Spartel:

Overlooking both the Straights of Gibraltar and the Atlantic ocean, this crag offers the beauty of being "out there"

Nearest town or city:

Tanger

Directions:

From the Grande Mosque (Mohamed V mosque) follow the road indicated for Rabat. Where the road splits at the next light, take the right fork towrds Cap Spartel. There will be a sign indicating Cap Spartel and the "Mountains" which indicates that you slip to the right. If in doubt, ask which way to "California". Pass the equestrian center on the left and come to the round abut where you will take the second exit (straight up the J'Bil Kbyr/Big Hill) Pass the Governor of Tanger and the King's palaces on the way folowed by R'milat on he way to Achakar Beach. You will se the ocean as you begin to descend to a small roundabut where you will continue to the right towards the Light house at Cap Spartel. Park in the lot or on the dirt beside the lot. Look for the parking attendant and give him a nod *he has a small plastic badge that indicates he is the one you pay (5 dirhams is generous) when you leave. Grab your gear and head back down the road you came in. On the right is a small Coast Guard installation with a radar tower and a large gate. Across from the gate, you should see a fallen log tat has been painted white. Follow the obviuos trail up past the large villa *keep the wall on your left. At the upper end of he villa the trail cuts right. Follow the White triangles and "CAF" ainted on rocks at intervals. You will see the cliffs as you proceed. The trail as it enters the thicket becomes less obvious, but keep your trend to the left and you should continue to see the white paint. There is an less than obvious "T". To the right you will find precisely ome bolted route and sevral options for some easy trad or top roped harder stuff. Go for and FA and we can give you credit. The Left turning at the "T" leads to a stepped rock scramble and winds to the top of the cliffs where yu will find three or four bolted routes and plenty of options for trad. There are several petzl an lucky caving type hanger which you would do well to avoid as their history in unknown. The glue ins and bolted anchors are new and were installed in late 2009 and early 2010 by members of the Clube Alpin Franšais.

Latitude, Longitude:

35.78482, -5.92318

Access Issues:

Some of the access is through private property. Be friendly and respectful and you should have no problems. Where there is no trail, there may be no permision from local owners to climb or access the rock. Please stay on the trails (such as they are) and give us time to develop this area for lng term use!