Sure, it's possible but with old wires that are tightly tied to each other, it's less likely.

Check the easy stuff before you dig into that kind of thing.

Diagnostics is testing, not getting suggestions and asking more questions after not doing the testing. It would be nice to have a little light that goes on and corresponds to the exact causes but we need to do the work in order to find out why things have failed.

Compression comes in between 135 -140 psi with most right smack in the middle at about 138. I need to verify my methodology, I had all spark plugs out and for each test cranked 5 revolutions. I also checked it with 7 revolutions and all come in just a hair over 150 psi. Let me know if I am off base and should be taking the first or second reading.

if you havent changed the cap and rotor yet i would recommend that you do !! i had a similar problem few years back with a hairline crack in the cap being the route cause , but it only broke down when the engine heats up . do you know if the electronic ignition module is the original as this can also start to break down under heat as it starts to go south ??

I checked the alignement and the cutlas bearing at the end of the season last year and all is well.

Jim, I've got to know...what would I be looking for inside under the exhaust flap? A mouse nest perhaps?

Thanks for all the ideas guys.

Current update - I'm out of time.

I dropped it off at the local Bu dealer the only shop in town with a mechanic that knows Indmars well.. Their mechanic has been working there for 15+ years back when the dealership sold MCs. Being the middle of August I can't go two summers with a boat not in full operation. We're missing good valuable time on the water tinkering and testing in between a busy schedule. I'll keep you posted on the diagnosis.