Well I'm wrong about the tall spikes, as witnessed on the reflection of a CD and the fluxometer, these bulbs still have color spikes and those spikes seem to produce more than 50% of the visible light from the bulb.
I'm just hoping that the "deluxe" phosphor coatings can produce a stronger light than the standard T12 "cool white" coatings but from what I've read and seen about these phosphors I'm not very hopeful. If they aren't much stronger than the standard coatings then I'll just try the Philips bulb and get the blue T5 bulbs as well, then I'll upgrade to LED when I need it for bright light in the morning.

@herf Yes the espresso lenses are extremely similar to the "brownie" eye wear on the fluxometer and possibly most brown tinted sunglasses. I'm also concerned about the styling but I guess the skyper will do. Hopefully I can persuade everyone to wear them to get much better sleep and use that as a response if they start getting strange looks.
The hard thing to explain is that our eyes are designed to "ignore" intensity - you go from outdoors to indoors and the lights change by 100:1 or 1000:1 but you don't notice. So this is the main thing to explain - that you don't notice it but the light is very bright.
Yes this especially! It's definitely closer to 1000:1 when the sun is out! I want to explain that seeing bright daylight in the morning and throughout the day is just as important than wearing brown lenses as the night time lighting effect will be a bit less powerful.
Also I will discuss what you mentioned about lights not being the same brightness as daylight but having near half the alerting (melatonin productiom delay) effect, even though the body will have already started producing it near sunset. This eyewear will help reduce that change or interruption of the hormone and sleep could arrive sooner.
I'll pass on the info to dim screens as even though they seem dim, they're quite bright and getting significantly brighter.
I think that covers all the important parts, and I'll be sure to read the Ken Wright camping study, I know my wake time is different whenever I go.
Thank you for the help and especially the speedy reply. After I posted the message I started thinking how busy you might be so this is great. I feel a lot more prepared to explain the effects of light on human sleep and this is a coincidence boost as well. Merry Christmas, happy holidays, take it easy.

@herf said in Philips 98CRI vs 90 with newer "ALTO" bulbs:
If you use LED, try to keep a T8 ballast in place, because the "direct-wire" T8 tubes have terrible flicker.
Thanks for that tidbit especially!! As I've mentioned before (Lorna has too) I can see flicker very very well even on most cheaper a19 LED bulbs and terribly on T12s.
I am getting into fluorescent as I figured it would be cheaper and there are still more options, more variety to custom ideas like Philips Activiva or 460nm "wavepoint" aquarium bulbs--I don't think I'll find that in an led bulb any time soon. It just puts out a large hill of blue light spanning aqua to violet.
I'll look into t8 / t5 LED bulbs but currently fluorescent has the edge on brightness like 54w tubes with 4000+ lumens of light, hopefully that's usually closer to 5000. I havent looked for high output led bulbs but I'll look around. From the website "designing with leds" I've seen some LED T8 tubes that are decent but the blue light cuts short of violet and there is a strong dip in aqua with 4000K (too low color temp for what I want( according to these charts (same website) if you want office style t8 data, I believe it comes with comma separated values files!
http://www.designingwithleds.com/light-spectrum-charts-data/
I'm ecstatic about what I've seen from waveform lighting led strips but their tubes do not use the same chips and also they're not bright enough for me so that makes them too expensive.
I'd be O.K. with something like waveform tubes if you're aware of similar bulbs I'm all eyes.

@herf Isee you're very involved with the forum--I can't help much with mac questions, but when you get a chance, I'd like to know the best 5500-6500K cfl (26w size or less) and T5 preferably as I have fixtures, or T8 bulbs with a color spectrum similar to Philips tl950 but with more blue light too.
I've seen online the Kino Flo tubes--can't use a single one of them as none use standard T5 base with 4ft (that combination). The CFL bulbs seem to drop down the blue too much and will probably have a strange color tint of minty blue green. Are you aware of higher quality CFL bulbs?

@herf
Awesome! Thanks so much man. I'll start playing around with that tomorrow.
I still would really like to see this as a feature, particularly for the sunset transition. I use the product to wind down during late night/early morning computer work so having more control over that transition would be very useful for me (and I imagine a number of others as well).

@herf said in f.luxometer user manual:
Well, you do need a spectrometer to get spectral data.
We do sell a $200 3-channel meter (not the colormunki) that does work with f.luxometer. With that meter, we estimate melanopic effects using a fit we made to our database of light sources (it is typically <10% error). The 3-channel meter is better for long-term logging of building data (over months) and for lower-light conditions (down to 0.1 lux).
Confusing, this post is above mine, while being after I posted. I guess it was after the main post, anyway it's very helpful for anyone. I think I wanted to say the x-rite device, instead of the colormunki, as it's a bit cheaper and much older device. I would like to know a bit more about the range of a 3 channel meter as I don't know much about them, and I think a spectrometer is more of what I'm looking for, so it may be worth it to just have the one device for less money, rather than having something that may not do what I see on the fluxometer website.
It's only $500 or so, maybe cheaper in other areas, but if you get a kickback, I'll pay full price, that's definitely worth it, it's a hell of a lot less than $2000! I'm really surprised the x-rite company has produced a device like this, I'm excited. I've wanted to measure indoor fluorescents for a while, and a CD stripe doesn't quite get there, although for no extra cash, it does very well. It's very difficult to tell if a light is low on red and such other details. I like to know how accurate lights are for cooking, so I just stick with old lights in a cooking area.
Hopefully this type of equipment and ... attention to color quality in a light source will catch on. I really hope it does--going back to cooking, I don't want to guess when meat to cooked to a certain point, whether it be venison (I prefer medium rare, when I know the source, usually family) or chicken etc. I could go on and on about small issues with current light sources, like the usually slight purple tint of daylight CFLs, or the strong purple cast of LED flashlights etc, who knows where this will lead.
While we're talking about all this, would you recommend the x-rite screen calibrator device, or another one? I'd like to get one, after reading TFT Central, and fluxometer, it's got me quite interested.

You're talking about how you feel when looking at a light? That is not a bad way to understand what's going on - at least the subjective alertness measures seem to correlate well to EEG.
The short answer is we don't know (for shorter exposures) exactly what spectrum is the most stimulating. The red light may reduce the impact somewhat, but the main thing at this level is intensity....so if you want to feel more alert, you should find ways to raise the light levels.