Mobile Miter Saw Stand College Station TX

I went all-out on my stand, adding my favorite bells and whistles. The cost is about $500 without the saw or vacuum. That’s a lot of dough, but you can slash the cost to $210 by eliminating the commercial fence parts, using less expensive plywood with no edge-banding, dropping the drawers, doors and dust hood and doing without the tool-actuated switch.

Mobile Miter Saw Stand

Mobile Miter Saw Stand

Get more from your miter saw with a stand that handles everything.

by Richard Tendick

I went all-out on my stand, adding my favorite bells and whistles. The cost is about $500 without the saw or vacuum. That’s a lot of dough, but you can slash the cost to $210 by eliminating the commercial fence parts, using less expensive plywood with no edge-banding, dropping the drawers, doors and dust hood and doing without the tool-actuated switch.

Folding Wings

Cursor and Flip Stop

Removable Saw Platform

Dust-Collection Hood

On-Board Vacuum

Sturdy Casters

Multi-Position Fences

You can move the fences on this stand to three different positions, depending on the job. The fences are clamped to the stand’s tables by threaded knobs. A pair of steel locating pins pass through a support behind each fence and into a series of holes drilled into the stand’s top (see photo, below). This automatically indexes the fence to two of the three positions.

For most cuts, you can line up each of the extension fences with the saw’s fence.

For making cuts with no tear-out on the back side or for cutting very short pieces, you can move the extension fence forward to align with a zero-clearance fence.

When you make a compound miter cut, push the extension fences back so you can slide the saw’s fence to the left (see photo, below). It’s also a good idea to push the fences back for cutting slightly bent or crooked stock.

Make the Boxes, Cabinet and Wings

1. Measure your saw to determine the size of the stand’s well. If needed, adjust the sizes of the drawer boxes and cabinet in the Cutting List (page 76). Cut all the plywood pieces to size (Fig. D, below).

2. Cut 1/4-in. strips of solid wood to edge-band the sides of the boxes’ tops (B2). Glue on the banding.

3. Cut dados and rabbets in the parts for the boxes and cabinet (A1, A2, B1, B2, B3, B4) (Detail 2, below). Note that a drawer box’s top (B2) overhangs its sides (B1, Detail 1, page 74). This overhang provides clearance for the wing’s prop (B8) to fold against the cabinet’s side. Assemble the boxes and cabinet. Glue and screw the spacers (B5) to the boxes. The spacers bring the inside of the drawer box flush to the face frame, which will be attached later.

4. Glue the double-thickness wings (B7). Lay the parts on your tablesaw’s top and weight them with cinder blocks to apply clamping pressure. Trim the wings to final size.

Using a 3/16-in. slot-cutting bit, rout grooves for splines in all the stiles and rails (Photo 2, Fig. A, Parts F1-F3 and S1-S4). All the grooves have the same offset, a 5/16-in. lip at the front and a 1/4-in. lip at the back (Fig. A, Detail 3). The front frame stiles (F1) and the front side frame stiles (S1) receive two slots.