Instructions

Zip-tie the fan to the upper end by the screw holes; zip-tie the PCB to to the middle; screw the heatsink in using the lower hole. Basically, see picture!
For the Solidoodle, you can use the Z screw holder with the kickstand to replace the stock screw holder.
For the generic mount, you'll have to come up with a kickstand appropriate for your printer.

I'm familiar with printer build, printer operation, Gcode and axis direction. I have found no one able to replicate your results
on acrylic regardless of the number of passes, the height of the work piece, focal point, etc. etc. .
You must be truly gifted. LOL

I own four L-Cheapos and can replicate the results on non-clear acrylic (you aren't using clear acrylic, right? You generally need up to 100-200% more laser output to cut clear acrylic) without any difficulty. Just make sure you've got the focal point dialed in (your 0.1s burn on paper should be less than 1 thou in diameter) and cut SLOWLY (4mm/s is my default speed for the mk1s for 0.1mm cut depth, so 20 passes for 2mm acrylic). These are the settings I got from Robots Everywhere when I did the beta.

Now I've got a mk4 and it screams along at 20mm/s and it's hilarious how fast it zips through my 1mm prototype sheets for game tokens and stuff.

Hello! To cut acrylic or thick wood with the L-Cheapo, do multiple passes, and be sure to set Z scaling to -1 so that the build plate moves up rather than down. You will likely have to jog the Z axis down a little (the thickness of the workpiece) before hitting print.

Very interesting. Never thought 2W diode lasers can be used to cut through something like 3/16 acrylic (like it shows on your http://indiegogo.comindiegogo.com video). At what speed are you cutting and how many passes does it take?

I'm following with interest, I know it's a work in progress but could you work in proper threaded screws for the heatsink\fixing to the mount as it sends a shiver down my spine recalling the guy that fitted a CD writer into his desktop PC using 1" long wood screws & wondered why we wouldn't warranty it.
Also is there a risk to the build plate (Replicator 2) once the laser has cut through the material or do you swap it out?
Manufacturing parts or assemblies isn't as cheap as doing something yourself, I produce a electronics unit in small quantities & I'm realistically making a loss on each one I produce due to the assembly time involved, if I had to pay someone then I'd have to charge a whole lot more.

I had to set up a manufacturing line, hire a couple of people, etc. Making things in the US is expensive.
Also, most of those modules are intended to be on briefly (a few minutes at a time), not all the time.
Finally, note that the module you linked me is 0.3W and the L-Cheapo
is 2.1W -- this is why the L-Cheapo can actually cut plastic rather
than just engrave it; it's 7 times as powerful.

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