Michael Klein: Owners of former Catelli open Catelli Duo in Voorhees

By Michael Klein, Inquirer Columnist

Posted: September 20, 2012

Catelli Ristorante enjoyed an almost-17-year run in the Main Street Complex in Voorhees before the swish Italian destination closed in July 2011.

Times had changed. Owners Jan Talamo, Linda Rosanio, and chef Lou Imbesi went back to the drawing board and came up with Catelli Duo, an industrial-chic osteria/wine bar tucked into Voorhees Town Center (12101 Town Center Blvd., 856-751-6069).

The menu allows dining at a variety of price points. Imbesi says patrons will be asked if they want "social" (smaller) or "duo" (entree-size) portions. Menu includes some Catelli favorites such as the short ribs, plus salads, sandwiches, raw bar, brick-oven pizza (gluten-free, too), pasta, and full-blown entrées.

Roberta Adamo - the pasta specialist who for years was behind University City's Penne - is rolling out the dough here.

The 16-seat bar is stocked with a 20-wine-by-the-glass storage system and is dominated by wine walls showing off 80 options by the bottle.

Outside, beneath a pergola, are two fire pits - one positioned by a waterfall. There will be a takeout section by the front counter.

It's open seven days a week, serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch.

Changes

Looks like the partnership behind Tapestry at Fifth and Bainbridge Streets has gone sour. The bar, open about 10 months, is closed - but it's temporary, pending a liquor license transfer, says partner Rich Rivera. He said business had been good. Partner Kar Vivekananthan opened the spot as Adsum in July 2010 with chef Matt Levin. When that arrangement collapsed, Vivekananthan brought in Rivera and Rob Nydick, whose Belvedere Group owns Main Street Market and Agiato in Manayunk. Vivekananthan said he wants out of the restaurant business.

The original Lee's Hoagie shop at 19th Street and Cheltenham Avenue in West Oak Lane - which dates back to 1953 - has closed. Partner Allan Lewin said it changed ownership last year and was reflagged as Lee's at Cheltenham. But "when it wasn't running to the standard we needed it," the Lee's people asked the new licensee to remove the Lee's name altogether. Instead, it closed. Lewin says the building owner is trying to work a deal with Lee's to install a new operator. The other Lee's locations are unaffected.

What's coming

Love a little small-market humility. Columbus, Ohio-based restaurateur Cameron Mitchell says his new restaurant - Ocean Prime, opening next summer at 15th and Sansom Streets - "won't take Philadelphia by storm. We just want to work into the fabric of the restaurant scene. We have no aspirations of knocking anyone out." Mitchell, a Culinary of America grad, expects to spend $4.5 million on outfitting the former Roy's into a bi-level luxe steak and seafood house with outstanding food and service.

Stephen Starr says he toured "all over" with chef Peter Serpico before Serpico "felt the magnetism of South Street." They will take 604 South St. for their collaboration, expected to open this winter under the name Serpico. He is a former top lieutenant in David Chang's Momofuku empire. The space holds fond memories for Starr, as it is next door to what was Ripley Music Hall, the cabaret that Starr operated in the 1980s in his pre-restaurant life as a music and entertainment promoter. "It was a great time," Starr said of the old South Street, where he also previously had a club called Stars at Second and Bainbridge Streets. "Back then, it was full of young people excited about food and entertainment. I love what it was and what it could be."

Briefly noted

Top Chef winner and Eagles fan Kevin Sbraga of Sbraga has developed a sandwich to be served during Eagles games on the club level at Lincoln Financial Field this season. It's a Sloppy Jose - short rib and chorizo seasoned with cumin, cinnamon and coriander, topped with grated queso Chihuahua and a homemade coleslaw made of shaved radish and jalapeño as well as carrots and cabbage plus chipotle lime mayo, and served on a toasted sesame seed roll. Price: $14, including house-made chips.

Michael Savett, whose "Gluten Free Philly" blog is a one-stop shop on gluten-free products and restaurants in the region, will be honored Sunday at Appetite for Awareness, the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness' food festival (1 to 5 p.m. at the old Strawbridge & Clothier building, 801 Market St.) Savett started GFP in 2009, a few years after his older son, Aden, was diagnosed with celiac disease, an inability to tolerate gluten. Details: www.celiaccentral.org/a4a.