Our Self-guided Safari in Kruger National Park

Feb. 23, 2017—Meeting Rentia and Stoffle at Sani Pass was fortunate for many reasons. We stayed with them for over a week, the first few days of which were pouring rain, so we had the shelter of a big farm house and a great private bedroom. Rentia even cooked all our meals and we’d eat at a big table in the kitchen with various family members, who would come and go. Dave and I were part of a big South African family for a week. We got motherly hugs, fresh farm milk and some true South African food, like pap (a porridge with an unfortunate name) and biltong and dry wors (like beef jerky and dried sausage and very addicting.)

Rentia and Stoffle’s house in Bethlehem, South Africa. Photo: Heather LeaRentia and Stoffle at their home in Bethlehem, South Africa. Photo: Heather Lea

One day Dave and I took a drive in one of their bakkie pronounced buckie, (trucks) with all six dogs in the back. When we stopped to look at a new river recent flooding had caused, the dogs took off exploring. The littlest and our favourite, Kola, sounded like she was whimpering. The other dogs wouldn’t come when called nor when we pretended to drive away. Dave got out and hiked over to the water’s edge. We thought Kola was stuck in the river. He had to climb over a barbed wire fence then ducked into some trees. Soon I heard him cursing and come running out swiping at his head. He got four stings to the face from a wasp nest. The very nest Kola had dug up and probably got a few stings herself.

Luckily these were not African killing bees or something. The bite areas swelled up pretty good and Dave looked like he had a double-chin but he faired well after we got him home and gave him an anti-histamine and some tea tree oil to stop the itching. All to ‘save’ a mischevious little dog!

We thank Rentia and Stoffle very much for their hospitality and generosity, which was well demonstrated when they loaned us a bakkie to head north to Kruger National Park for a self-guided three-day safari.

Kruger is one of Africa’s largest game reserves. It is 360 km (220 mi) from north to south and 65 km (40 mi) from east to west. Kruger became South Africa’s first National Park in 1926. Here you can see The Big Five: lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo.

During this trip, my Nana passed away. On the day my mom messaged me about it on our Inreach tracker, we kept seeing this beautiful bird.

The bird that followed us along on our safari (Note addition: a friend says this might be a Lilac-breasted Roller) I like to think was my recently deceased grandma. Photo: Dave Sears

I believe it was Nana following us. She had beautiful, colourful clothes and loved to travel. She had asked me to send her photos of our safari. But this was the real thing. She would have loved being on safari with us seeing all the animals. We saw all the Big Five—except the Cape Buffalo—and much, much more.

We were thrilled with the number of animals we saw in Kruger. Dave really outdid himself with some incredible shots.

The photos will tell the rest of the story so I’ll pass you over to them now 🙂

Here is the bakkie Rentia and Stoffle loaned us for our safari. South Africa has some fantastic camp grounds. Photo: Heather LeaSome of the great facilities in South African campgrounds include braai (BBQ) stations. Photo: Dave SearsWatching for animals during a picnic stop. Photo: Dave SearsA shy kudu. Photo: Dave SearsThis is a dik-dik. He was about the size of a big dog but smaller than a deer. More like a midget deer. Very squat legs. Photo: Dave SearsA zebra and wildebeest. Photo: Heather LeaAlthough zebras look the same at first glance, they each have a unique stripe that sets them apart. Photo: Dave SearsWildebeest. Photo: Dave SearsThe handsome impala. Love their horns. Notice all the flies on his face. Photo: Dave SearsA female impala. Photo: Dave SearsNot sure of the name (correction: Swainson’s Spurfowl,) but these birds are like pheasants but with style. Photo: Dave SearsAgain, don’t know the name of this bird (correction: Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill.) Photo: Dave SearsWe think these might have been one of the nearly extinct birds in the park. (Note addition: this is a Ground Hornbill) Photo: Dave SearsThese ostriches are huge! Photo: Dave SearsThe Wood Stork. Photo: Heather LeaA beautiful collection of birds in Kruger National Park. Photo: Dave SearsAn eerie scene of vultures on a stormy day in Kruger National Park. Photo: Dave SearsAnd now for some of the Big Five sightings. Love this one for scale. We later saw a car like this flipped over in the ditch. It likely was driving too fast but it’s not impossible now to imagine it could have been an angry elephant. They were ‘on musth’ during our visit so horny and angry! Photo: Heather LeaSuch a sorrowful face. Photo: Dave SearsInterestingly, an African Elephant’s ears are the same shape of the African continent. Photo: Dave SearsSparring elephants on musth. We saw some with broken tusks from fighting. Photo: Dave SearsThat’s quite a dump! Elephant poo. (We found out later there is a strict rule for not getting out of your vehicle in the park. Stupid tourists! Photo: Heather LeaElephant skulls are smaller than I thought. Maybe this was a baby. Photo: Dave SearsCheetahs have a less complex spotted hide so these are cheetahs not leopards. Photo: Heather LeaRhinos proved to be harder to find and see than lions. We only saw this one on our last day heading out of the park. Photo: Dave SearsWhat happens when there’s a lion around. Photo: Heather LeaAt last the elusive lioness. Photo: Heather LeaAnd the male lion hot on her tail. It was mating season for the lions. We were told they fornicate 40 times a day for four weeks. Forty! Photo: Heather LeaIt looks like a smile but don’t be fooled. In all African parks, we are forbidden to ride through on motorcycles. It severely limits our options for some roads and park travels in Africa. But the self-preservation aspect of my brain says that’s OK. Photo: Dave SearsLions will not eat impalas. They prefer bigger game for their time. Impalas, wildebeest and zebras are often seen grouped together as they all protect each other from larger prey animals. Photo: Dave SearsI couldn’t wait to see a giraffe. I love these guys, even if they wouldn’t turn around for the photo. Photo: Dave SearsGirafes are the tallest living terrestrial animal. Photo: Dave SearsI wish I could twist my neck like this. Photo: Dave SearsKissing giraffes. Photo: Heather Lea“Check out my monkey butt!” Photo: Heather LeaBaby baboons are adorable. I never get enough of seeing baboons. They are a little aggressive so you have to be careful around them but so human-like and they have the funniest behaviours. Photo: Heather LeaI asked a park ranger about the disgusting red growths that many of the baboons had on their asses. I was told it was to attract mates. It did nothing for Dave and I. But maybe if you’re a baboon, it’s sexy as all get-out. Photo: Heather LeaThe best baboon family shot. You’d think they were posing at a photo studio at Sears. Since Dave took the shot it was actually some sort of Sears studio. Photo: Dave Sears“Oh yeah, riiiiight there, scratch it, yeahhhh.” Photo: Dave SearsA lot of rain had fallen recently. Watering holes are usually where you’ll find all the animal action; prey stalking and a variety of animals collecting but as everywhere was lush, the animals didn’t congregate at local watering holes. Photo: Heather LeaSome dramatic scenes in Kruger during the rainy season. Photo: Heather LeaOur borrowed bakkie (truck) was the best way to see animals. Dave was excited to drive a right-hand drive vehicle. Photo: Heather LeaThe skull of a wildebeest. Photo: Dave Sears

Spying hippos. Photo: Heather LeaHippos along the river while we were having lunch (in a restaurant up on stilts). Photo: Dave SearsWe waited awhile to get one that would look at us, mostly they are gorging themselves in true hippo form. Photo: Dave SearsCrocs are pretty camouflaged. We saw this one from across the river. Photo: Heather LeaAnd now for some creepy-crawlies. I think this is a beattle of some sort. It’s incredible spiky. I watched some birds try to eat one and they gave up. Photo: Heather LeaThis Chongololo is about 5 inches long. Photo: Heather LeaA bat hiding in the eves during the hot day. Photo: Dave SearsThe spotted hyena. Photo: Dave SearsWart hogs are named that way because of the wart-like bumps on their face. Sexy! Photo: Dave SearsRentia and Stoffle told us to drink plenty of gin and tonic to ward off malaria. We didn’t argue. Photo: Heather Lea

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Awesome that you got to tour Kruger, that brings back great memories. I’ll have to check my bird guide, but the colourful bird is either a Lilac-breasted Roller, or a European Roller. The millipede is a Chongololo (not how it’s spelled). The big black and red bird is a Ground Hornbill, relatively rare so neat that you got to see it. I can’t remember the name of the other hornbill… The tiny deer is a dik-dik, I think…

Fabulous animal photos. You mentioned you are not allowed to ride motorcycles in the parks (because of the animals, obviously) but is there not a danger that you can encounter the same sort of animals outside of the parks?

You’re right and we’ve often wondered that ourselves. I guess because these are protected areas, the poachers haven’t obliterated the animals. We’ve seen zebras, oryx and signs for giraffes in places that are not in parks, but I think lions, for example, are long gone from poachers.

Hi Kids, Wow, what pictures, Cant wait to get the coffee table book of the trip. The small antelope is called a Dik Dik I believe. The cats are definitely Cheetas. To see a Leopard in the daytime would almost be as rare as seeing an alien from some other planet.

Oh man! I am so impressed with all these fabulous pictures! The elephants! The monkeys butts! The lions…….shit just like national geographic! You 2 must have been on such a high for 3 days. This is livin man. And this world is so full of great and kind people and i’m so impressed with your adventures. I feel like I’m there with you. Thank you both for that. Life is so short. My sister Diane is in the last stages of cancer and it’s just a matter of time. It’s been 2+ years of caregiving and i truly believe this world and traveling it is all ya really need! I am so making the moves to live a nomad life. Keep up the posts! Stay safe and be with love everyday! Having experienced your nan passing, it truly reminds us how precious and joyful each day needs to be. Motor on! xoxoxo

Beautiful words, Petra. Thanks for the reminder. Some days are tough with the heat and fatigue but we are seeing so much beauty and that’s what counts 🙂 Love to you. I’m sorry to hear about your sister. Sending good thoughts your way.

Just to be ‘that guy’, the red faced bird is a Swainson’s Spurfowl, the other hornbill is a Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, and the stork is a Wood Stork.
Keep the photos coming, it’s great to re-live it through you guys!

One of my wife’s bucket list items was to do a saffari. So a year ago I took her to an African game reserve several hours from where we live in Ontario. She loves giraffes but when one tried to stick its head in the window to give her a kiss she quickly put the window back up! We by passed the baboon section as there were warnings – saw them all over a tour bus. They are known to brake off wipper blades and mirrors. Keep touring. Keep writting. Enjoy your posts.