Hungry Memphis

The Cubana at Taqueria Tarascos

Taqueria Tarascos isn’t much to look at — just a taco stand (painted psychedelic green) that used to be something or other on Lamar (across from a U-Haul parking lot). Behind the property is a trailer park that’s seen better days. But you aren’t here for the ambience. You’re here for no-frills Mexican. What’s wrong with no-frills? Nothing.

The three mini but loaded soft tacos campechanos (with Mexican sausage, jalapenos, and onions) are $2 per order, but that’s for starters. The Cubana torta ($5.50) is a real mouthful: Milanesa pollo and jamon y pastor (translation: breaded chicken, ham, and spicy pork), plus onions, tomatoes, and some mayo (avocado, sour cream, cheese, lettuce, and beans optional), served on a round of bread with some real bite to it. Don’t stop there. Throw on Taqueria Tarascos’ killer green sauce. Warning, though: This place is tiny. Better to order takeout. The beer’s your responsibility.