Glossary

A complication in a watch that will make a sound or vibration at a preset time

Altimeter

An essential complication for aviators an altimeter measures altitude, or height above sea level. Recording ascent and descent, an altimeter can also be an important piece of equipment for climbers, walkers, mountaineers and other professionals where altitude is a needed measurement.

AM/PM Indicator

A feature that indicates whether the indicated time is AM or PM. This feature can be found mostly (although not limited to) in watches with a GMT/Dual time display or a World Time Display to help know whether it is day or night in the other time zones.

Analog/Digital (Duo) Display

A dial or face of a watch that has the ability to display the time using rotating hands or other markers on a dial, (an analog display) and electronically by digital units (a digital display) on the dial simultaneously. This is also known as duo display or an AnaDigi watch.

Analogue

A watch that uses rotating hands or other markers on a dial to tell the time

Annual Calendar

A complication showing the date, day and month. An extremely complicated and sought after movement. This watch will correctly adjust for short and long months; however, it will not correctly account for Leap Year, the 28 days of February once every four years.

Aperture

The opening or window found on watch dials in which certain indications are given such as the date window on a Rolex Datejust

Auto Repeat Countdown Timer

A countdown timer that resets itself as soon as the preset time has elapsed and repeats / starts again. The countdown cycle runs continuously until the stop button is pushed.

Automatic Winding Movement

A mechanical watch that uses as its power source the addition of a weighted pendulum called a "Rotor". The Rotor is attached to the movement, when the watch is in motion and continually worn, the natural motions of the body spin the rotor around the inside of the watch & "automatically" wind or power the movement. If worn every day an Automatic watch will not have to be wound. An automatic watch can and should be wound manually if the watch has stopped or is at the end of its power reserve due to non-wear. To restore the power reserve to an automatic watch simply wind 30-40 times. You can not over wind an automatic watch. Manually winding an automatic watch after the power reserve has depleted or the watch has stopped ensures the watch is at full power reserve. A typical power reserve for an automatic watch is generally 35-45 hours. Consult your manual for specifics.

B

Balance Spring

Also known as the Hairspring, it a very fine spring in a mechanical watch that causes the recoil of the balance wheel. The length and adjustment of its length regulate the watch's timekeeping.

Blance Cock

A separate bridge holding the balance and regulator assemblies.

Balance Wheel

Analogous to the pendulum in grandfather clocks it is a weighted wheel in a mechanical movement that rotates back and forth separating time into beats. It is a key mechanism producing accuracy of time in a watch.

Barrel

A cylindrical covered box with gear teeth on the outside that houses the Mainspring in a mechanical watch. The size of the barrel controls the length of the Power Reserve or stored power of a mechanical movement. The teeth surrounding the barrel drive the wheel train.

Bezel

A ring on the top side of the case surrounding the crystal. It may be decorative or functional. The Bezel can be fixed, move only one way, Uni-Directional, or move both ways, Bi-Directional. Many functional Bezels are useful to calibrate time from any given point by rotating the Bezels 12 position to any given starting point of reference along the dial.

Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel

A bezel that can be moved both clockwise and counter-clockwise to perform mathematical functions using the dial of the timepiece as reference. A bi directional bezel is similar to a slide rule and is extremely useful for aviators and aviator timepieces.

Bracelet

The metal strap often containing links that attaches to the case of the watch and allows the timepiece ot be worn on the wrist.

Breguet Spring

The spiral hairspring on which the balance swings tends to bunch on opposite sides as it expands or contracts. The constant shift in their gravity disturbs the rate of balance, and Breguet solved the problem in 1795 by upraising the last coil of the spring and giving it a smaller curve. This Breguet overcoil encouraged the spring to develop concentrically, improving the rate of the watch and reducing the wear on the balance pivots.

Bridge

A metal movement part that is attached to a bottom plate and holds at least one bearing of a rotating part.

C

Calendar

A feature that shows the date, and often the day of the week. There are several types of calendar watches. Most calendar watches show the information digitally through an aperture on the watch face. Some chronograph watches shoe the information on sub-dials on the watch face.

Cambered

This refers to a Domed/Arched Crystal

Caliber or Calibre

Since the early 18th Century, the calibre of a movement has denoted the position and size of its different components, notably the wheel train and the barrel. Today In watchmaking, the term refers to the specific layout and shape of a movement and the bridges, and its various components as well as the designer of the movement.

Case

The container housing the movement of the watch and protecting it against dust, moisture, jarring and other hazards. Usually consisting of the case band, the bezel, and the case back.

Chronograph

Watch or other apparatus with two independent time systems: one indicates the time of day, and the other measures (stopwatch function) brief intervals of time. Counters registering seconds, minutes and even hours can be started and stopped as desired. It is therefore possible to measure the exact duration of an event. There are many variations on the chronograph. Some operate with a center seconds hand which keeps time on the watch's main dial. Others use sub-dials to time elapsed hours, minutes and seconds. Still others show elapsed time on a digital display on the watch face. Some chronographs can be used as a lap timer (see "flyback hand" and "split seconds hand"). The accuracy of the stopwatch function will commonly vary from 1/5th second to 1/100th second depending on the chronograph. Some chronographs will measure elapsed time up to 24 hours. Watches that include the chronograph function are themselves called "chronographs." When a chronograph is used in conjunction with specialized scales on the watch face it can perform many different functions, such as determining speed or distance (see "tachometer"). Do not confuse the term "chronograph" with "chronometer." The latter refers to a timepiece, which may or may not have a chronograph function, that has met certain high standards of accuracy set by an official watch institute in Switzerland.

Chronometer

Technically, all watches are chronometers. But for a Swiss made watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet certain very high standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss watch labeled as a chronometer, you can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the very highest quality-- undergone a series of precision tests in an official institute. The requirements are very severe: a few seconds per day in the most unfavorable temperature conditions (for mechanical watches) and positions that are ordinarily encountered.

Complication

One or more features added to a watch in addition to its usual time-telling functions, which normally not only include the hours, minutes and seconds but also date and often the day of the week as well. Complications such as; perpetual calendars, moonphase displays, alarms, repeating mechanisms, quarter strikes as well as stop/start chronograph functions. Power reserve indicators are also usually regarded as 'complications'

A function that lets the wearer keep track of how much of a preset period of time has elapsed. Some countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds before the time runs out. These are useful in events such as yacht races, where the sailor must maneuver the boat into position before the start of a race.

Crown

The crown often referred to as the winding crown or winder is used for winding the watch in the case of a non-automatic, for setting the hands to the correct time and often for setting the date in the case of calendar equipped watches. On diving/sports models, the crown may be screw-down whereby it screws onto a threaded tube, which protrudes from the case of the watch. This often ensures superior water resistance.

Crystal

The cover over the watch dial is called the crystal. There are three types of crystals commonly used in watches: acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated to create an unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches. Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.

D

Day/Date

A watch that shows both the day of the week and the date of the month.

Day/Night or AM/PM Indicator

A feature that indicates whether the indicated time is AM or PM. This feature can be found mostly (although not limited to) in watches with a GMT/Dual time display or a World Time Display to help know whether it is day or night in the other time zones.

Deployment (Foldover) Buckle

A three-folding enclosure that secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.

Digital Display

A watch that shows the time in numbers, or digits, rather than hands and a dial. Liquid crystal display (LCD) is commonly used.

Dual Time

A watch that shows local time and the time in at least one other time zone. This is generally displayed by an additional hour hand which tracks time in a 24 hour mode. Some watches have a separate sub-dial showing the full clock at the additional Time Zone.

Duo Display

A display that shows the time both by hour and minute hands (an analogue display) and by numbers (a digital display). This is also known as AnaDigi display.

Dial

Disc or plate made of metal or another substance, inscribed with various markings, including obvious indications for the hours, minutes and seconds. Uniquely varied in shape, decoration and material, they are inscribed with numerals, figures, symbols, divisions and other information.

E

Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel

A graduated rotating bezel used to keep track of periods of time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero on the bezel with the watch's seconds or minutes hand. You can then read the elapsed time off of the bezel. This saves from having to perform the subtraction that would be necessary if you used the watch's regular dial.

EOL

End of Life. In quartz movement, the end of battery life is indicated by the second hand, which starts to jump every four seconds. The battery should be changed immediately.

Engine Turning/Turned

This is a centuries-old craft that, still today, involves the use of antique machines to engrave delicate patterns on metal watch components, including cases, dials, bezels and movements. It is also known as guilloche.

Equation Of Time or EOT

An Equation Of Time (aka EOT) complication indicates the difference between "true" solar time (that of nature) and "mean" solar time (that of man). As the earth orbits around the sun in an elliptical (oval) shape & the axis is tilted - there are only 4 days a year when the day is exactly 24 hours long April 15th, June 14th, September 1st and December 24th. All other days of the year the days are shorter or longer - depending in the position of the earth. This watch will show the difference between the "mean" time & the "true" time. Since the number of the days are fixed year after year (at the same location) a watch can be manufactured to replicate the correction via a shaped cam which elongates & shortens the days accordingly.

Escapement

The device at the heart of virtually all time-keeping mechanisms. The mechanism that "releases" the energy that maintains the oscillations of the balance wheel which governs the rate at which the escapement lets the wheels and hands of the watch revolve.

F

Fly-back Chronograph

A seconds hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to determine finishing times for several competitors in a race. Start the chronograph, putting both the flyback hand and the regular chronograph seconds hand in motion. To record a lap time or finishing time, stop the flyback hand. After recording the time, push a button and the hand will "fly back" to catch up with the constantly moving elapsed-time hand. Repeat the process to record as many lap times or finishing times as needed. In chronographs with numerical display, a "function" having the same effect.

Function

Also known as complications. A term used to describe the various different tasks a watch can perform such as chronograph and countdown timer.

G

Gear Train

The system of gears which transmit power from the mainspring to the escapement.

GMT Time Zone

Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is also known as Zulu Time and UTC (Universal Time Coordinated). The standard by which all World Time is set was agreed at the 1884 International Meridian Conference at Washington DC, USA. It placed Greenwich on the Prime Meridian (Zero Longitude). Greenwich Mean Time or GMT is the time standard against which all other time zones in the world are referenced. It is the same all year round and is not affected by Summer Time or Daylight Savings Time. GMT was originally set-up to aid naval navigation when the globe started to open up with the discovery of the "New World" (America) in the fifteenth Century. Generally when the GMT term is used with watches it refers to the ability of the watch that shows local time and the time in at least one other time zone in a 24 hour mode. The reason for showing the additional time zone in 24 hour mode is to allow the wearer to know if the second time zone is in AM or PM.

Gold Plating

An application of gold over the surface of an item. The thickness of the plating is measured in microns (1000th of a mm).

Guilloche

Also known as Engine Turning. It is an engraving technique in which a very precise intricate repetitive patterns or design is mechanically etched into an underlying material with very fine detail. Specifically, it involves a technique of engine turning, called guilloche in French, after the French engineer "Guillot", who invented a machine that could scratch fine patterns and designs on metallic surfaces.

H

Hairspring

Also known as a balance spring. A very fine spring in a mechanical watch that causes the recoil of the balance wheel. The length and adjustment of its length regulate the watch's timekeeping.

Helium Escape Valve

A feature found on some diving watches. It provides functionality for professional divers operating at great depths for prolonged periods of time or under saturation, breathing Hypoxic trimix or other mixed gases with helium in them. Because helium is such a small molecule (the second smallest there is), over time in a pressurized diving bell, helium will sneak its way past the o-rings into the inside of a dive watch. While at depth this causes no problem, it will as the divers decompress the helium which is unable to escape the watch. With a standard dive watch this would lead to the watch crystal popping out from internal pressure. To stop this happening, high-end, professional diver watches have a helium escape valve or helium bleed valve to let out this extra pressure during decompression. This is a one-way valve which allows the helium to escape.

Horology

The science of measuring time and technology of constructing instruments for its measurement or recording. Encompassing the art of designing and constructing watches.

I

Index Hour Marker

A simple stick/line design hour indicator on an analog watch dial, used instead of numerals.

J

Jewels

In watchmaking, a synthetic ruby used for making low friction bearing in which the delicate pivots of the movement wheels run in. In some deluxe watches, sometimes sapphires or garnets are used. Expensive watch movements are jeweled from the barrel to the balance, and all automatic work, date and complication movements are expected to be jeweled.

Jump Hour/Minutes

A jump hour indicator takes the place of an hour hand. It shows the hour by means of a numeral in a window on the dial of the watch. The word "jump" refers to the fact that the numerals jump from 1 to 2 to 3, etc., rather than showing intermediate times between hours as hour hands do. The minutes and seconds in a jump hour watch are read as normal from the analog hands and dial.

K

L

Lap Timer

A chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, the wearer stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.

Lever Escapement

The lever divides into two pallets which lock and unlock the escape wheel teeth. Tthe action is governed by the balance engaging the other end of the lever, the escape teeth sliding on the inclined pallets life the lever to impulse the balance.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)

Liquid crystal display (LCD) in digital watch display that shows the time electronically by means of a liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. All LCD watches have quartz movements.

Luminous

Luminous dials first appeared during the Great War when soldiers needed to tell the time in the dark. Early forms used Zinc Sulphide compound agitated by a radioactive salt. It was painted on hands and was potentially dangerous to those applying it. Its use was banned in the 50's, since Tritium, a substance with a low radio activity, replaced it. Other methods have been devised. Timex's 'Indiglo' uses electronic luminescence; a button on the side of the case causes a tiny current from the battery to the electrodes and gives off energy in the form of light. Seiko uses fluorescent material on the dial, activated by any exposure to light.

Lugs

Double extension of the case middle by which a strap or bracelet is attached.

M

Main Plate

Base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mainspring

The coiled spring which provides the power to drive a mechanical watch movement.

Manual Wind Movement

A mechanical movement in which winding is performed by hand. The motion transmitted from the user's fingers to the crown is forwarded to the movement through the winding stem to the barrel, through a series of gears to the mainspring.

Marine Chronometer

Arguably the most accurate timepiece in the world, a Marine Chronometer is a mechanical or electronic timekeeper that is enclosed in a box and is used for determining the longitude on board a ship. Marine chronometers with mechanical movements are mounted on gimbals so they are in the horizontal position that is essential for their precision.

Measurement Conversion

A feature that allows the wearer to convert one type of measurement into another. It usually consists of a graduated scale on the bezel or dial.

Mechanical Movement

A movement based on a mainspring which when wound slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion to provide accurate timekeeping. As opposed to a manual mechanical watch which needs to be wound on a consistent basis, an automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your wrist (see our section on automatic watch maintenance for more details).

Micron

This is a thousandth of a millimeter and is a measurement used for the thickness of gold plating.

Minute Repeater

A Complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece on the case. One of the most expensive complications on a mechanical timepiece.

Mono (Single) Pusher Chronograph

A stop watch operated by a single button. While 99% of chronographs are operated by the use of two button - one to start & stop the stopwatch, the second to reset the stopwatch; a Mono Pusher complication allows for 1 button to start, stop & reset the stop-watch.

Moonphase

An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother of Pearl

Iridescent milky interior shell of the freshwater mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink and salmon.

Movement

The means by which a watch keeps time, often including the power source. For example, a watch with mechanical movement uses a spinning balance wheel powered by a tightly wound spring, whereas a watch with quartz movement measures the vibrations in a piece of quartz and often is powered by a battery.

N

Numerals

Numeral (Roman and Arabic) are used to present information in the dial and sub dials

P

Perpetual Calendar

A complication displaying the day of the week, the date, the month &ndash; also correcting for leap years - and the phases of the moon. Operating on the 400 year cycle, perpetual calendars require no manual correction before February 2100.Perpetual calendars are almost always self-winding and, if worn constantly, are one of the most useful of all complications.

Platinum

A rare precious metal, platinum also is one of the strongest and heaviest, making it a popular choice for setting gemstones, jewelry, and watches. It has a rich, white luster, and an understated look. Platinum is hypoallergenic and tarnish resistant. Platinum used in jewelry and watches is at least 85 to 95 percent pure. Many platinum watches are produced in limited editions due to the expense and rarity of the metal.

Power Reserve Indicator

Also known as Reserve de Marche, a feature that shows when the mainspring in the watch will need to be wound. This is a complication for mechanical watches that is quite useful and is usually indicated in hours, except in the case of watches that have a very high power reserve numbering in the days.

Pulsimeter

A scale on a chronograph which is used for measuring pulse rate.

Push-Piece

Button that is pressed to work a mechanism. Push-pieces are usually found on chronographs, striking watches, and alarms.

O

P

Q

Quartz Crystal

Quartz is a piezoelectric material, meaning that it generates an electrical charge when mechanical pressure is applied. These crystals also vibrate when a voltage from an outside source, such as a battery, is applied. Piezoelectricity was discovered by Pierre Curie and his brother Jacques in 1880. In the early 1920's, W.G. Cady recognized that due to their elastic qualities, mechanical strength and durability, quartz crystals could be used to fabricate very stable resonators. Cady also concluded that the crystal could be cut in specific ways which would create resonators of almost any frequency that were practically independent of temperature variations. Quartz crystals were first used as a time standard by Warren Marrison, who invented the first quartz clock in 1927. Juergen Staudte invented a method for mass-producing quartz crystals for watches in the early 1970s.

Quartz Movement

A caliber that uses the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain timing accuracy. The power comes from a battery that must be replaced about every 2-3 years. In recent years, new quartz technology enables the watch to recharge itself without battery replacement. This power is generated via body motion similar to an automatic mechanical watch, or powered by light through a solar cell (Kinetic & solar-tech).

R

Rattrapante Aka Split Seconds Chronograph

The addition of a flyback hand (rattrapante) significantly increases the potential uses for chronographs. It makes possible the measurement of split second times or timing simultaneous events of unequal duration.

Regulator or Regulateur

A Regulator display separates the minute and hour hands onto a separate axial & sub-dial. This allows for accurate time telling at a glance without the chance of having the watch hands covering each other.

Reserve de Marche

Also known as Power Reserve Indicator. A feature that shows when the mainspring in the watch will need to be wound. This is a complication for mechanical watches that is quite useful and is usually indicated in hours, except in the case of watches that have a very high power reserve numbering in the days.

Retrograde

Used to describe a pointer hand on a watch dial (often a subdial), which returns to zero at the end of a prescribed period. For example a watch may have retrograde date - in Used to describe a pointer hand on a watch dial (often a subdial), which returns to zero at the end of a prescribed period. For example a watch may have retrograde date - in this case the hand moves up a scale a day at a time, pointing to the current date - when it reaches 31 it will spring back to 1 this case the hand moves up a scale a day at a time, pointing to the current date - when it reaches 31 it will spring back to 1

Rotating Bezel

A bezel (the ring surrounding the watch dial) that can be turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical functions.

Rotor

The part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that winds the movement's mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle, that swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wearer's arm.

S

Sapphire Crystal

Sapphire crystal is a very hard transparent material commonly used for "scratch-proof" watch glasses. Made by crystallizing aluminum oxide at very high temperatures, it is chemically the same as natural sapphire and ruby, but without the small amounts of other elements such as iron, titanium or chromium that give the gemstones their colors. Sapphire (whether natural or synthetic) is one of the hardest substances, measuring 9 on the Mohs scale, a system for rating the relative scratch hardness of materials. (Diamond measures 10, the highest rating, and the hardest steels are 8).

Second Time Zone Indicator

An additional dial that can be set to the time in another time zone. It lets the wearer keep track of local time and the time in another country simultaneously.

Shock Absorber

A resilient bearing which takes up the shocks received by the watch's balance staff and protects its pivots from damage. As defined by the U.S. government regulation, a watch's ability to withstand an impact equal to that of being dropped onto a wood floor from a height of three feet.

Skeleton Case

A watch in which the case and various parts of the movement are of transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen.

Slide Rule aka Navigation Computer

A device, consisting of logarithmic or other scales on the outer edge of the watch face, that can be used to do mathematical calculations. One of the scales is marked on a rotating bezel, which can be slid against the stationary scale to make the calculations. Some watches have slide rules that allow specific calculations, such as for fuel consumption by an airplane or fuel weight.

Solar Powered Batteries

Batteries in a quartz watch that are recharged via solar panels on the watch face.

Split Seconds Chronograph Aka Rattrapante

A feature on a chronograph that actually is two hands, one a fly back, the other a regular hand. To time laps or different finishing times, the wearer can stop the fly backhand independently while the regular hand keeps moving.

Stainless Steel

An extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration, and corrosion; it can be highly polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Stainless steel is often used even on case backs on watches made of other metals and is the metal of choice used to make high quality watchcases and bracelets. It is also hypoallergenic because it doesn't contain nickel.

Stopwatch

A watch with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stop watch function and the timepiece are referred to as a "chronograph".

Stepping Motor

The part of a quartz movement that moves the gear train, which in turn moves the watch's hands.

Sterling Silver

A precious metal. Sterling refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure. The silver fineness should be stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials of a designer or country of origin as a hallmark. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnishing.

Subsidiary Dial

A small dial used for any of several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating the date.

Swiss-Made

As a part of a move towards greater consumer protection and in order to combat fakes in the Far East that claim to be Swiss made, the Swiss federal council in 1993 laid down the rule that a watch has to satisfy before it could be described as Swiss made. The movement must be of Swiss origin, and must contain at least 50% Swiss parts. The watch must be cased in Switzerland and pass its final inspection in that country.

Swiss A.O.S.C.

A certificate of origin - A mark identifying a watch that is assembled in Switzerland with components of Swiss origin

T

Tachymeter Scale aka Tachometer

Common feature in chronograph watches. Measures the speed over a predefined distance. The wearer starts the chronograph when passing the starting point and stops it when passing the finish. The wearer can read the speed in units per hour off the tachometer scale. The scale is generally engraved on the bezel or printed on the outer diameter of the dial.

Tang Buckle

A tang buckle is a traditional Loop & Pin (belt type) buckle.

Tank Watch

A rectangular watch with bars along the sides of its face. It was inspired by the tracks of tank used in World War II and designed by Louis Cartier.

Timer

Instrument used for registering intervals of time (duration, brief times), without any indication of the time of day.

Titanium

A "space age" metal, often having a silver-gray appearance. Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent lighter than steel, it has been increasingly used in watch making, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in diver's watches. Since it can be scratched easily, some manufacturers use a patented-coating to resist scratching. Titanium is also hypoallergenic.

Totaliser

A mechanism that keeps track of elapsed time and displays it, usually on a subdial on the watch dial. Same as a "recorder" or "register". The term "totalizer" can be used more generally to refer to any counter on a watch.

Tourbillon

A device, invented by Breguet in 1801, in which the escapement is mounted in a small revolving cage as a means of overcoming the effects of gravity on the precision of a mechanical timepiece. The mechanism that even in its most conventional version, is
extremely hard to manufacture and generally demands a high premium.

U

Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel

An elapsed time rotating bezel (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"), often found on divers' watches, that moves only in a counterclockwise direction. It is designed to prevent a diver who has unwittingly knocked the bezel off its original position from overestimating his remaining air supply. Because the bezel moves in only one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety when timing his dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted, so that they lock into place for greater safety.

V

Vibration Per Hour or VPH

Movement of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical watch generally makes five or six vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour), but that of a high-frequency watch may make seven, eight or even ten vibrations per second (i.e. 25,200, 28,800 or 36, 000 per hour).

W

Water Resistance

Describes the level of protection a watch has from water damage. A watch that is water resistant can withstand water to a certain extent. Check the watch manual to find out the exact level of water resistance your watch is.

Winding

Operation consisting of tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can be done by hand (by the crown) or automatically (by a rotor, which is caused to swing by the movements of the wearer's arm).

World Time Complication

A dial, usually on the outer edge of the watch face, which tells the time up to 24 time zones around the world. The time zones are represented by the names of cities printed on the bezel or dial. The wearer reads the hour in a particular time zone by looking at the scale next to the city that the hour hand is pointing to. The minutes are read as normal. Watches with this feature are called "world timers."

X

Y

Z

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