Thank you! I'm glad you liked it.It's Arduino compatible. You can use an Arduino the send commands to the control board using serial communication. The control board will work as a slave unit.I didn't try it yet, but will make some tests soon.

Great news! I'll verify if the documentation is wrong and will fixit soon. It's possible that I've made some mistakes.

Great news, BigGene! :)Please post some pictures of your robot so far. :D

The default starting position is with both arms down and looking forward. Is it assuming a different position? If so, you might need to unscrew the servo horn and reposition it. Unfortunatelly I think there's no easier way.Regarding the spasms, I've experienced it before when there was not enough current to feed the whole circuit. It starts to happen when as the batteries discharge.I hope it helps.

I'll verify the documentation. I'm glad the face of your robot is now working! :D

Hi there,I love adding explainer gifs to my tutorials. They make the reading of the tutorial funnier and might help passing the message without distractions. I've recently tried to add some videos too, but they are not very popular yet... :-/Follows some of my recent tutorials, full of gifs and videos! I hope you like them.https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-17-DOF-Hum...https://www.instructables.com/id/Wi-Fi-Voice-Contr...https://www.instructables.com/id/Wi-Fi-Smart-Scale...https://www.instructables.com/id/Wi-Fi-Controlled-...

Hi there! :DI think the syntax is correct. What's the version of the Arduino IDE you're using? I'm currently using 1.8.8 and it seems to be working.Regarding those backlashes, they're used to inform the compiler that the following quotation mark is actually a character of the string. Otherwise, it would think the quotation mark represents the end of the string.

Hello! If all the sketches are in the same folder, Arduino IDE will open all of them as you open the main sketch, link them and upload all at once.Regarding the baudrate of the esp8266, did you manage to connect the WiFi network after changing it? I hope it works! :)Regarding the wiring of the DC motor, if they are wired wrong you can change the code to compensate for that.

Hi there.The displays isn’t supposed to be allOn when powered up. They might blink once, but then they show turn off and change to the sleeping face until connected. Please verify the connections to the Arduino. If it still doesn’t work, very the connection between the Displays.I think it’s a good idea to change the baudrate of the esp8266. Can’t you access the usb connection if you open the back cover?

Thanks. I’m glad you liked it.The working range is limited by the distance between the robot and the WiFi router. There’s no limitation of distance between the phone and the robot, given both of them are connect to the internet.

Hi there. I’m glad your robot is almost ready!Regarding the code:1 - When you power up the circuit, what’s the face displayed on the robot? It’s supposed to assume a “sleeping face” until the esp8266 manages to connect. Them it changes to a standard smiling face.2 - There are two baudrates: one for the Serial.begin, used for the communication between the Arduino and the Serial Monitor, and other for the esp8266.begin, used for the communication between the Arduino and the ESP8266. Change the baudrate for the esp8266 until it matches the circuit standard baudrate. I’ve seen modules with 19200, 57600 and 115200.3 - If the proper baudrate is selected, the Arduino will manage to talk to the esp8266 and order it to connect your WiFi network.Please let me know if you make some progress. :D

That case looks great. I didn’t know there are 18650 batteries with different lengths.

Wow! It looks great! Thanks for the pictures. :)I liked the idea of the velcro. This way the phone won't be loose inside te robot.I'm currently trying to replace the electronics. Instead of a smartphone + Arduino + ESP8266 I'll use a Raspberry Pi with a touch screen. This way I'll reduce the number of components, and it will be easier to make some clones. Makers with different smartphone models are having difficulties to assemble this part of the robot.

Hi BigGene,First of all, sorry that I took so long to answer. I am very busy these days... :-/Regarding the Wheels parts. There distance between the wholes was actually wrong. The dimensions on the model of the DC motor part I used as a reference was wrong and I commited the same mistake.I've updated the part, and hope that now the dimensions are right.Sorry for the inconvenience. :D

Hi there! I'm really glad you enjoyed the project, and that you decided to make one for your daughter. It's great to know that! :DYour printing is getting really great. I enjoyed the combination of the orange and black parts.Regarding the motor pivot you created, I think it's a great idea! I'll try to print one and test it. I'll also add a hole on the neck axis #1 part design for that purpose. Thanks for the suggestion.I recently found other 8x8 LED kits whose connectors are not soldered, and with a smaller footprint. It uses a SMD driver placed under the LED matrix, and is considerably smaller. I'll make some tests and maybe add a different version for the face 3D printed parts for this kind of LED kit.I agree with you: the connection of the motors should be explained better on my tuto...

Hi there! I'm really glad you enjoyed the project, and that you decided to make one for your daughter. It's great to know that! :DYour printing is getting really great. I enjoyed the combination of the orange and black parts.Regarding the motor pivot you created, I think it's a great idea! I'll try to print one and test it. I'll also add a hole on the neck axis #1 part design for that purpose. Thanks for the suggestion.I recently found other 8x8 LED kits whose connectors are not soldered, and with a smaller footprint. It uses a SMD driver placed under the LED matrix, and is considerably smaller. I'll make some tests and maybe add a different version for the face 3D printed parts for this kind of LED kit.I agree with you: the connection of the motors should be explained better on my tutorial... during the installation, one should worry about the angle of each servo, and I didn't addressed that on my explanation. Right now I'm wondering how to improve the arms with stronger and more reliable mechanisms, that are also easier to assemble.Regading the LED face, I think the connections are correct. If there's something wrong (in the order of the LED matrixes), you can also change Arduino code to fix it.Thanks for your comments. Feel free to tell me if you find something wrong. There's a lot to improve on the design, and your feedback will help a lot.

Hi BigGene. Could you please send me a picture of these parts?

Hi there,I verified the desing and the base part was wrong as you mentioned. I've updated the dimensions for the Arduino Uno and the L298 h-bridge mounting holes (you can find the new version on Thingiverse, for instance). I hope now all the screws will be properly aligned. Sorry for my mistake.Thanks for the suggestion on the tapping tool. It would avoid breaking those small "pillars" durring the installation of the components.Please feel free to send other recommendations and observations, so that I can improve the design and make it better for the community! :D

Hi there! I used a hard plastic sheet (the kind used on the cover of notebooks, for instance) on the face of the robot. Just had to cut it in the right dimensions (same size of the face front panel) and place it in front of the face before assembling the head.It’s intended to diffuse the light from de LEDs, but it would also protect from dust as you mentioned.Are you building your own Joy robot? Please share some pictures with us! :D

Hi there! In my case I used a shield that powers the servos. This way, the Arduino doesn’t have to feed those motors, it only sends a control signal.In your case, you might use different power sources for the Arduino and for the motors. Their ground should be connected for a common reference for the control signal.

Hi there. I’m glad you liked my tutorial and thought it helpful. Regarding the power connector, it seems that they’ve changed it. The one I have is different from the one in their website, and it’s quite difficult to find a suitable connector. It seems their latest version is easier, with a screwed terminal.

Hi there!Actually what I meant was to enable Nunchuk's accelerometer readings, not the ones from the MPU6050. There's a part on the code that rotates some servos based on the readings from the accelerometers of the Nunchuk controller, only when the buttons are pressed.In this project I didn't use the MPU6050 module provided on the kit.Sorry for the confusion.

Hi there!I haven’t had this issue. Actually I’m looking for a long time for a way to do that (periodically repeating last message).Can you see if the same message repeats over and over on Adafruit.io feed?

It looks great, Andrea! Congratulations! :DYou can also try a voice controlled version without changes in the hardware. Check it out:https://www.instructables.com/id/Wi-Fi-Voice-Controlled-Robot-Using-Wemos-D1-ESP826/

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! :DRegarding the library, maybe you can go to the following link, download it (click "Clone or download"), and the copy only Nunchuk's library.https://github.com/infusion/FritzingRegarding servo numbering, it starts from the base (servo 1 = base, ..., servo 6 = gripper).I hope it helps.

So far I've only worked with 50kg load cells. Once the weight is divided between four supports, although each cell is rated for 50kg, the whole setup can measure up to 4 times this (200kg). If you need to measure up to 400kg, you can use four 100kg cells. Or even eight 50kg (connected to two different amplifiers) and sum their values.

Hi there,You can change only the part of the code where the button is used as a trigger to the air freshener. In my code, whenever the button is pressed, a message is sent to Adafruit.io server, updating command feed. Adafruit.io server sends a confirmation back to the NodeMCU, and only then it sprays. I think you can use the same approach.On void loop() add a routine to verify the PIR sensor and update Adafruit.io as it's shown bellow:void loop() {io.run();if(digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN) == LOW) {command->save("button");}if(digitalRead(PIR_PIN) == HIGH) {command->save("button");}}I hope it helps :)

Hi there. I'll try to save editable files on Thingiverse, ok? Regaring the things you want to change for your project:1 - I've tested it with G90 motors before. They don't have enough torque and won't be able to active the air freshener cartridge. It only worked for me with tougher one (MG995 servo, for instance).2 - Which Arduino are you using? You'll need to connect it to a Wi-Fi network.Please let me know so that I can help you.

Hi there!1. I didn't look for smaller sensors. But I believe 50kg sensor usually come in that size. You can find smaller ones for other loads (there are sensor for a multitude of ranges).2. Using the board I've used (a ESP8266 Firebeetle), removing the display wouldn't reduce much. The display is almos the same size of the board, and adds only a few millimiters on top of it. There are differente boards one could use (if size iis a limitation), like the ESP8266-01, for instance.I hope it helps.

Hi there,Sorry if I took so long. Regarding the arrow keys, left-click the mouse on the background before trying to press the arrow keys on the keyboard. Otherwise, other input object (text boxes or buttons on the interface) might be selected, and the script won't recognize the keyboard input as commands to the robot.Also make sure the IP address of the robot was correctly informed. Just enter the IP number (don't press enter after that).Notice there are two baudrates involved here: one between the Serial Monitor and the Arduino (Serial port), and other between the ESP8266 and the Arduino (SoftSerial port). Please verify if they are correct.I hope it helps.

Hi there! Yes, it would be really usefull to add a voltage indicator on Blynk app. This way the 'pilot' would have an idea of how much battery there's left. Thanks for your suggestion! :D

Good job! I hope you liked it and had some fun! :DRegarding your questions:1 - The connection between the robot and Blynk might be laggy sometimes. It would also depend on the quality of the connection and distance between your Wemos, the smartphone and the Wi-Fi router. Once the data travels a long way (the smartphone -> Blynk server -> Wemos -> motors) you might notice some lags.2 - I believe this might be caused by some limitations of the batteries you're using. Deppending on the batteries, it won't be able to provide enough current to run the motors. This might drop the voltage and shutdown the electronics.3 - The robot presented in this project runs on an open loop. This way, the microcontroller doesn't know the speed of each motor and assume they both run at the same spee...

Good job! I hope you liked it and had some fun! :DRegarding your questions:1 - The connection between the robot and Blynk might be laggy sometimes. It would also depend on the quality of the connection and distance between your Wemos, the smartphone and the Wi-Fi router. Once the data travels a long way (the smartphone -> Blynk server -> Wemos -> motors) you might notice some lags.2 - I believe this might be caused by some limitations of the batteries you're using. Deppending on the batteries, it won't be able to provide enough current to run the motors. This might drop the voltage and shutdown the electronics.3 - The robot presented in this project runs on an open loop. This way, the microcontroller doesn't know the speed of each motor and assume they both run at the same speed. Generally this isn't true. Each motor has it's characteristics, and might run at different speeds for the same applied voltage.There are two ways to overcome this: you might reduce the voltage of one of the motors a little bit compared to the other one (use an analog (PWM) output) and try to make them both run at approximatelly the same speed. It won't be perfect, but it's the easier solution. Or you might a closed loop system. For that, the microcontroller will have to be able to read the speed of each motor and calculate the control signal (PWM signal) for each motor.I hope it helps! :D

I’ll test what happens if the weight is concentrated on one side. Ideally the weight is divided on the four supports, and the average weight is measured. The more it’s concentrated on the center the best.Anyway, I believe you can compensate that during the calibration. :)

It worked for some hours of non continuous rotation of the motors, but I don’t have exact measurements.It will depend on several variables: quality of the batteries, speed of the motors, strength of WiFi signal. I’ll try to measure it and send you later.