Monday, February 09, 2009

The Taste Festival finally comes to Sydney after its inception in London, and a rapid-fire international take-up in cities including Dublin, Dubai, Cape Town and Melbourne. The concept allows the public to sample some of Sydney's hottest and best restaurants in the outdoor sunshine of Centennial Park over four days in March.

The truffle risotto by Berowra Waters was the first sample I tried. Shaped into balls and pan-fried into an arancini, this was one of my favourites. Thin crisp coating gave way to risotto grains that were plump but still firm, a molten stretchy mass of mozzarella a welcome surprise.

The spicy pork sausage on betel leaves by Longrainwas another favourite of the evening. I loved the kick of chilli and lemongrass sausages balanced by the sharpness of the pickled ginger, the tumble of coriander, fresh chilli slivers, peanuts and fried shallots wrapped up in the slightly sour betel leaf.

Beetroot macaroons by Centennial Parklands Dining were a crowd favourite. Given its description, I expected a crisper surface, but these were more sponge-like in texture, its glorious pink colour a hit with many.

Chandon vintage brut

Drinks were supplied by Chandon, and whilst it didn't take long for me to down two glasses of sparkling, further drinks were abandoned for more important priorities: one hand free for photos, the other for food sampling!

Etli borek by Ottoman Cuisine were like a Turkish take on spring rolls, the thin filo pastry shell a crisp contrast to the filling of braised veal sweetened with currants and crunchy with pine nuts. Plain yoghurt and ruby pearls of pomegranate added colour and liveliness.

The kingfish pastrami and smoked oysters by Danks Street Depot were probably the most unusual offering of the evening. The smokiness of the kingfish was echoed by the tea-smoked oysters, a crisp salad of apple and cucumbers giving a fresh sweetness.

Celeriac and smoked trout remoulade by Bird Cow Fish was the final savoury dish to exit the kitchen. Tart and creamy with mayonnaise, the celeriac gave a nice crunch against the flakes of smoked trout, topped with glistening pearls of ocean trout roe.

Double chocolate hazelnut baklavaCivic Dining - Chef: Peter Conistis

Double chocolate and hazelnut baklava by Civic Dining was dense, nutty and resplendent with syrup.

But it was the vanilla pannacotta by Jonah's at Whale Beachthat generated the biggest reaction. The white conical dessert bore a cinnamon tip and wobbled with such alarming enthusiasm it was hard not to give in to lascivious thoughts. Eating the delicately fluffy and slippery smooth dessert only further fueled the imagination.Martin Boetz of Longrain and Alex Bird of Bird Cow Fish