MJX-F645 Tail Lights

9116 Flybar Issues

Hello to everyone here. I have been in and out of RCG from time to time. Was a fixed wing guy for a long lime then more recently got back into helis (wise decision?????) not sure, LOL! Anyway....yes I too just purchased a DH9116...waiting for it to arrive. Also have a Blade mSR and DH 9101................So my main question I would like to ask is....I see all the problems with the flybar wacking the fuse and tail....can't one of the lighter (plastic) flybars from one of the larger DH's like the 9101 or 9077 be used on the 9116 and possibly end the overweight FB issue ?...................Please share your thoughts on this

Thank you Steve for your prompt reply...........I knew there was a reason I liked hanging out here!......But again, have to ask, if anyone has tried to retro-fit any of the other (lighter) DH flybars to the 9116..............thus preventing strikes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yikes !

For JMCarlson,
(I hate that "@" thing when replying.)
Steve has lightened his but one or 2 others have simply bent them.
One has bent it to about 40 degs (I believe), horizontally towards the blades, while another has curved them up at about 30 degs. (Like a cows horns?) ((I did this & it works.Clears the canopy easily.))
Found one Image of the bent one.
The cow horns one is somewhere in the old thread, I think.
The "bends/curves" are made at around 1.5 to 2" from the weight. TBV.

Images

For JMCarlson,
(I hate that "@" thing when replying.)
Steve has lightened his but one or 2 others have simply bent them.
One has bent it to about 40 degs (I believe), horizontally towards the blades, while another has curved them up at about 30 degs. (Like a cows horns?) ((I did this & it works.Clears the canopy easily.))
Found one Image of the bent one.
The cow horns one is somewhere in the old thread, I think.
The "bends/curves" are made at around 1.5 to 2" from the weight. TBV.

We will remove the LED wiring, and use the existing
tail motor wiring and the boom as our conductors.

The tail motor on the 9116 is wired so that the positive
side of the circuit is hot at all times on one motor lead,
and they vary the motor speed by impeding the path to
ground.

What this means is that if we have an independent ground,
we can tap off that positive feed to run small accessories.

First I wired a 390 ohm resistor to the battery negative
terminal on the PCB. This is what we will ground the
boom with, and the resistor will keep things from going
up in smoke if there is a short. It also happens to be the
correct resistance to run a couple of LED's with an
8 volt source.

From the resistor, I ran a short piece of wire to the boom,
and then crushed the stripped end of the wire inside the
mount to ensure a good connection.

I did the same thing on the tail end, and then used the
battery positive feed from the motor to drive the 2 LED's

It works perfect, and the weight I saved from the removed
wire and plug (1.5 grams) was enough to add another tail LED,
and still have the tail weigh less than at the start.

Now I have a solid blue LED on the bottom of the tail, and a
blinking one at the top.

I will soon know how many RPM's these things do.
Just bought a digital, non-contact tacho for $12.00 + free postage.
Must be a goodie at that price.
Others in the list, (the same un-named brand), were anything up to $40 or $50.

Still awaiting some spacer washers & ball bearings for the S 16D, so nothing further to report yet.

I think Steve has looked at drilling more out of various parts but thought better of it, because of "Impending structural failure".

Hi guys, I just burnt out my pcb board on my 9100. Was wondering where you guys get your pcb boards and tx from? Been scouring the net looking for those. Since I killed it, might as well upgrade it to a 9116. Just trying to see what the cost would be, if it's worthy or just get the original board and spend the money on something better.

Re: impending structural failure

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rajah235

I think Steve has looked at drilling more out of various parts but thought better of it, because of "Impending structural failure".

L..

I know you're kidding, but that is the reason I made my outer sideplates out of plastic. If I drilled out the aluminum ones as much as the plastic ones that I fabricated they really would be very structurally weak and it wouldn't take much of a crash to bend the heck out of them. (Steve was on the right track on how he modified his. The areas that he left intact are the important ones, the remainder is mainly cosmetic). The plastic will flex on impact and depending on the plastic used can take a lot of punishment without damage.

I've found that any plastic that is also used as an integrated hinge is very tough. I just made a set of sideplates out of an old vcr tape box that flexes along one side as a hinge for the cover.

The inner sideplates though are boxed by the helicopter's plastic components and are therefore very rigid even when drilled out radically, so that's a good place to lose weight. Plus I think it looks cool, but as the saying goes,"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".