Dill: Honor the herb of the year

Let us now take a break from our deli sandwich, raise a pickle spear high and salute the herb of the year: dill.

What would a pickled cucumber be without dill? And Scandinavian gravlax? Just another cured salmon.

The title of "herb of the year" was conferred by the International Herb Association, a Jacksonville, Fla.-based group of herb producers and educators. They've been honoring herbs — voting on their medicinal, culinary and decorative values — since 1995.

Gardeners enjoy dill's tall airy look; the ancient Romans grabbed it for good luck. Fennel's a sibling, but don't confuse the two: Fennel's flavor is anise/licorice; dill's is delicate and sweet.

There always was dill in our family garden, where pickling cucumbers also grew. The two met in a massive, deep, tan-colored crock, destined to spend time with a vinegar mix until "pickled." Fresh dill also flavored a tangy sour-cream gravy ladled over thin sliced beef for koprova, a Czech favorite. Mediterranean cooks use it in rice and tzatziki.

Dill plays well with fish, cucumbers and potatoes, adding a refreshing note. It works in sauces, dips and dressings. Don't sub dill seeds for dill weed — the fresh fronds have a bright flavor; the seeds are intense.