The highest level of Buddhist Borobubur symbolizes Nirvana to which believers seek to ascend.
The highest level of Buddhist Borobubur symbolizes Nirvana to which believers seek to ascend.Barbara Selwitz

A gateway to the water palace of the sultans in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. (Barbara Selwitz photo)
A gateway to the water palace of the sultans in Yogyakarta, Indonesia.Barbara Selwitz

Borodubur is considered to be one of the world's most important monuments.
Borodubur is considered to be one of the world's most important monuments.Barbara Selwitz

Even for Asian devotees, Yogyakarta — in the centre of Indonesia’s island of Java — is hardly a household word. But it certainly deserves to be better known. Not only are its palaces and museums worth a serious look, but the city is also an easy ride from Borobudur, the world- class Buddhist monument, as well as the fascinating Hindu complex of Prambanan.

Yogyakarta’s most famous sight is the 18th century Kraton, the royal palace of Javanese sultans that is still occupied today. Though the role of sultan now is largely symbolic within the Republic of Indonesia, the palace — with its many pavilions and courtyards — is still used for ceremonial and cultural functions.

Open for touring only in the mornings, visitors can see a complex baturana or heavily decorated gate, designed to block direct access by evil spirits who, it is believed, prefer to move in straight lines.

Beyond lay many open-air pavilions supported by ornately carved pillars. Don’t miss the Bangsal Kencono or “golden throne pavilion” with its intricate patterned Hindu-style red roof, Buddhist lotus petals at the base, and pillars covered in verses from the Qur’an written in green and gold Arabic calligraphy.

Throughout the Kraton, presents given to earlier sultans — including porcelains, batiks and silver — are on display. Also shown are hundreds of photographs detailing Kraton life since the mid-1800s.

Unfortunately, maintenance appears to be perfunctory, and — given the sultry climate — the lack of air conditioning has lead to some deterioration.

One can easily spend several hours here. But, you should carefully remember your point of entry, and return there to exit. Otherwise, one can quickly become quite lost, and the target of local louts. They’ll offer to “help” you find your way out, but only if you agree to first be led to — and inevitably be heavily pressured to buy — something in the shop of a cohort.

Another interesting site — not far from the Kraton — is the partly restored Taman Sari or Water Palace. This is an 18th-century retreat with multiple pools and waterways where the sultans visited and entertained their entourage. Not far from here is an intriguing former Dutch colonial fort that’s now a museum.

However, for most travellers, Yogyakarta’s prime appeal is its closeness — no more than an hour’s ride away in different directions — from Borobudur and Prambanan, both UNESCO heritage sites.

Seven-tiered Borobudur, covered in masterful stone carvings, was erected during the eighth and ninth centuries. One of the world’s largest Buddhist structures, its levels represent the stages of life Siddhartha passed through from a prosperous prince into the Buddha himself. Statues surrounding each level reflect the transition, and at the top there are manifestations of Nirvana, which Siddhartha was finally able to achieve.

It takes about an hour to ascend and view the sculptures. This is a fascinating experience that’s not overly arduous. But, you can only visit with a guide assigned to you upon entering. Though it’s open throughout the day, Borobudur is best scaled early in the morning before crowds, temperatures and — during the rainy season — chances for thunderstorms rise significantly.

Also near Borobudur you’ll want to explore two other smaller but fascinating Buddhist monuments — Mendut and Candi Pawon. They are another reason for two or more travellers to hire a car and driver rather than taking a bus tour.

Prambanan, dating to the 10th century, is another massive temple complex, with the main site dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. There are also temples devoted to Brahma and Vishnu, and three more honouring the animals that serve each of these gods.

Here, access is restricted due to structural damage caused by recent volcanic eruptions. Indeed, climbers must wear hard hats, a good idea in any case since many of the moves one makes during the climb are in fairly tight spaces. All of the temples are covered with intricate stone carvings depicting scenes from the great Hindu Ramayana epic.

Personally guided tours to Borobudur and Prambanan should occupy a full day each. One reason is that Borobudur is 38 kilometres northwest of Yogyakarta while Prambanan is 18 km to the northeast.

Some 547 km northwest of Yogyakarta is Jakarta, Indonesia’s traffic-clogged but intriguing capital. Mainly a business/government affairs destination, it does boast several fascinating attractions.

These include Kota, the city’s poorly maintained old town, where Dutch colonial structures surround a bustling square; the National Museum of Indonesia with four centuries of stunning artifacts; and the city’s bustling port.

Related Posts

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.

Almost Done!

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.