Kitchen Call: Cool soup in the summertime

Friday

Jul 30, 2010 at 12:01 AMJul 30, 2010 at 8:02 AM

Need something cool for dinner that takes little or no time over a hot stove? How about a cool soup that takes advantage of fresh vegetables so perfectly, abundantly and inexpensively at peak just now? Short of keeping your underwear in the freezer, a la Marilyn Monroe in “The Seven Year Itch,” or a steady diet of ice cream (believe me, that is tempting), this might be one of the neatest ways to cool off.

Linda Bassett

Need something cool for dinner that takes little or no time over a hot stove? How about a cool soup that takes advantage of fresh vegetables so perfectly, abundantly and inexpensively at peak just now? Short of keeping your underwear in the freezer, a la Marilyn Monroe in “The Seven Year Itch,” or a steady diet of ice cream (believe me, that is tempting), this might be one of the neatest ways to cool off.

Gazpacho is the Spanish way to cool the palate and enjoy the garden. Recipes vary according to the part of the world or the cook. Some are seasoned with lemon, others with herbs. Onions vary from yellow to scallions. Zucchini and cucumbers are interchangeable. But always, always, tomatoes and bell peppers take the starring role. The cook gets the rewards because no heat is necessary to make this soup — and the applause because it tastes so good.

Cooks can disagree on the texture, turning it out in various forms from nearly salad to nearly smooth. Results are eye-appeal best somewhere in between when vegetables can be distinguished from one another. And icy best served in frosted glasses. I’ve used completely inauthentic frosted beer mugs.

The greens soup is merely a road map for a cook’s imagination. I think it’s a great way to use those extra leafy greens that could be wasted lingering too long in the vegetable drawer, like that half a head of romaine or half a bag of spinach. The cook can feel free to add nearly any green vegetable to the basic greens — and the potato, which is the thickening agent. I’d caution against bell peppers as they could overwhelm the soup, but asparagus or green beans or even frozen peas could work as long as cooking time is adjusted so that they soften.

This one requires a short amount of cooking before mingling the flavors in the fridge. A key to its fresh flavor is adding the fresh herbs after the soup has cooled so that they remain bright. And the bonus is that the soup tastes just as good using fat-free half-and-half as with light cream. Or for a thicker, slightly tangier result, try fat-free or low-fat Greek yogurt.

Fresh herbs, kept uncooked, benefit these soups by adding full flavor. (Don’t be afraid to add them by the handful.) Homemade croutons add crunch. Make a large batch using a whole loaf of bread and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cooking time is short.

To make the croutons (and once you do, you’ll never go back to the packaged ones), cut good (not mushy) sliced bread into 1/2-inch cubes (pile up the slices to do this quickly) and toss in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of olive oil (you don’t want these soaked, just lightly touched with flavor), salt and pepper. Then transfer them to baking sheets, spreading the bread cubes out in a single layer. Place in a preheated 300-degree oven and cook for 20 to 30 minutes (sorry about that), stirring them once or twice so that all sides get toasted. Cool on the kitchen counter, resisting the urge to eat them like popcorn, and store tightly covered (so they don’t pick up odors) in the refrigerator for whenever needed.

GAZPACHO
Makes 8 servings

This colorful no-cook cold soup seems to taste colder when served in frosted glasses rather than bowls.

1. Cut the garlic cloves in half and remove the sprout in the center. Process together the bread, garlic, and lemon juice to a smooth paste. Transfer to a large bowl.

2. Add all the chopped vegetables to the bowl and toss. Add the V-8 juice, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add herbs. Toss together. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

3. Spoon half the mixture back into the food processor and puree. Return to the bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours before serving. Taste again for seasoning. Drizzle a small amount of the remaining olive oil over the top of each serving.

1. Warm the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add scallions, celery and potatoes and cook, stirring for 3 to 5 minutes over medium heat until the vegetables are wilted.

2. Stir in all the leafy greens. Wait 1 minute to slightly wilt them, then add the wine and chicken stock. Bring to a gentle bubble and cook for 10 minutes until everything is very soft. Cool to room temperature.

3. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender. Add the chives and fresh herbs and puree. It doesn’t need to be completely smooth. Whirl in the cream or half-and-half. Refrigerate 1 to 2 hours to chill before serving topped with croutons.

Linda Bassett is the author of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai: Neighborhood Cooking North of Boston.” Reach her by e-mail at KitchenCall@aol.com.