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When the layers are adjusted for the Jabric's turn, the underlayer edge stays behind the outer edge. The left sample shows layers meeting equally on the edge. The right sample shows a longer fuchSia layer favoring what will become the "public" side. side, and the seam is not visible from the "public side" (the side that shows when the garment is worn). If the turn-of-cloth isn't taken into consideration, the upper collar and lapel area of the front facing "steal" some fabric from the under collar and lapel, causing the seams to curl back to the public side. Some commercial patterns have a turn-oj-cloth allowance built into their patterns, but make sure it's enough for the fabric you're using. DON'T DEPEND ON PATTERNS TO SUPPLY THE TURN-OF-CLOTH On blouses and dresses with a rolled collar, commercial patterns generally have only one pattern piece for both the upper and under collar. Turn-of-cloth is not taken into consideration. Even though patterns for tailored jackets and coats often have separate pattern pieces providing extra turn-of-cloth fabric for upper and under collars, it's often not enough nor in the right places. Most commercial patterns also don't provide turn-of-cloth fabric at the center back of the upper collar, where it is needed most. Shawl collars are notorious for this problem. Facing pattern pieces on tailored jackets and coats generally have some turn-of-cloth built in such as the lapel pattern shown at left, but you need to make sure it's enough for the fabric you're using. FABRIC CHOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE Even the best patternmakers cannot predict what weight fabric you'll use for the pattern. While you're checking for the right turn-of-cloth, you can also find other pattern errors. I've actually found patterns with smaller upper-collar patterns, which is obviously a patternmaker's error and could lead to sewing disappointments. Understanding turn-of-cloth, checking the pattern, and knowing how to adjust it for your particular fabric will improve the quality of your fashion sewing. Judy Barlup, owner of Unique Techniques, teaches and operates her mail-order business out of her home studio in Bellevue, Washington. Visit UniqueTechniques.com. 72 THREADS