A Guide to Pumpkin Ale

The story behind this fall brew, plus our favorite bottles By James Oliver Cury

I
f you pay attention to the beer selection at your local market you are probably asking yourself these questions: What is pumpkin ale? When did it become so darn popular? And do they really make beer out of squash? You wondered. We answered.

What's the Story?

America is the land of DIYers and our founding fathers were no exception. George Washington, Ben Franklin, and Thomas Jefferson are all said to have brewed beer from pumpkins. They had to: Barley and other ingredients used to make liquor in the Old World were scarce in America. So settlers used whatever they could get their hands on, including parsnips, molasses, squash, corn, and apples. (This also explains why applejack brandy was so popular back in the old days.) But truth be told, the pumpkin beer craze didn't really take hold until the late 20th century, when craft brewers started playing with the genre.

How Is It Made?

Brewers can hand-cut and roast pumpkins and leave them in the mash (a mixture of milled grain and hot water) as it ferments, a standard step in the beer-making process. Another approach is to use pumpkin purée, or even artificial pumpkin flavorings. Most breweries also add spices, such as nutmeg, ginger, clove, allspice, and cinnamon. No one makes pumpkin beer exclusively out of pumpkin anymore. For a palatable beverage, you also need malt, hops, yeast, and water. Expect average potency to be in the range of 4 to 7 percent ABV. And for those who wonder if it's always pumpkin ale, the answer is no. Though rare, there are examples of manufacturers experimenting with other beer styles—witness Lakefront Pumpkin Lager, Four Peaks Pumpkin Porter, and Cape Ann Brewing Company's Fisherman's Pumpkin Stout.

What Does It Taste Like?

Some pumpkin beers feature subtle hints of the squash. Those are the good ones. Others taste like boozy pumpkin pieoften too sweet, cloying, and rich. The vast majority of companies play up the pumpkin-friendly spices more than anything else. Tasters may also detect notes of molasses, caramel, earthiness, and hazelnut.

When Is It in Season?

Generally speaking, pumpkin ale can be found on store shelves from September through November, but keep in mind that the more popular bottles tend to sell out quickly. Availability varies, but pumpkin ales can often be found on draft at bars and restaurants throughout the fall.