The Mount Shasta area is blessed with an overabundance of great hiking options, both on Mount Shasta itself and in the mountains and river canyons that immediately surround it. Many may not feel the need to venture beyond this amazingly beautiful area and it is easy to understand why. However, for those with the bug to explore a little further there are several incredible mountain ranges just outside Mount Shasta’s vicinity. The largest and most spectacular of these other ranges are the Trinity Alps. Soaring granite towers, clear lakes, roaring rivers and massive waterfalls are all found in a vast wilderness that exceeds 500,000 acres. Indeed, by most standards, this is Northstate’s premier wilderness area. No other mountain region in California, north of the Sierra Nevada, offers the chance to disappear for weeks on end without retracing steps and covering the same ground. The Trinities boast hundreds of miles of trail, all of which are scenic and are usually spectacular. Unfortunately, it is the very vastness of the Trinity Alps that makes them a difficult place for day hikers to explore. Most of the best trails require an overnight trip or longer in order to reach the destination, let alone have the time to appreciate it.

The Trinity River, on the drive from Mount Shasta.

Fortunately, the two trails closest to Mount Shasta are easily done as day hikes, though they make good overnight destinations too. Of all the many trails in the Trinity Alps, the Bear Lakes and Tangle Blue Lake Trails are the most easily accessed from Mount Shasta. The trailheads for both trails are only a one hour drive from Mount Shasta City. For comparison, it takes about an hour to reach the Clear Creek and Brewer Creek trailheads on the east side of Mount Shasta. Both of those require miles of driving on dirt roads. In contrast, the Bear Lake Trail is possibly the most accessible of all Trinity Alps trailheads, with only a few hundred yards of dirt road. The Tangle Blue Lake Trail only requires 3.5 miles dirt road. The drive itself is incredibly scenic, climbing over Parks Creek Pass by Mount Eddy, where amazing views of the Trinity Alps unfold to the west, before following the Trinity River from its headwaters all the way down to where the river meets Highway 3. It is so scenic that the drive is worth doing for its own sake and boasts numerous hiking and camping opportunities along the way.

Mount Shasta viewed from the Bear Lakes Basin.

The trails themselves lead to premier destinations. The Bear Lakes Trail is the grander of the two, leading to a massive granite basin. Two cirques are tucked away at the back end of the basin, each containing a lake. Big Bear Lake is one of the largest in the Trinity Alps. Though smaller, Little Bear Lake may exceed its larger sibling is scenic qualities. Just below Big Bear Lake is a large series of open, granite slabs over which tumbles Bear Creek in a series of refreshing cascades. Like much of the Trinity Alps, the whole area is very reminiscent of the granite terrain in the Sierra Nevada. Tangle Blue Lake is a bit more subdued but is exceptionally scenic nonetheless. Rather than the stark beauty of the granite cliffs and large, deep lakes, the Tangle Blue area is filled with refreshing meadows and springs. Large granite cliffs are still present, especially at the south end of the lake, but it is complimentary to the lake, rather than the massive cliffs at the Bear Lakes, which tend to overpower the scene. Of course, the trail into Tangle Blue Lake is shorter and easier, so one does not have to work as hard in getting there. Either way, both lakes are classic Trinity Alps lakes and make great day trips from Mount Shasta.

Alone among the trails in the Trinity Alps, the Bear Lake Trail travels alongside the main branch of the Trinity River. From the trailhead, the path loops down to the river and crosses over Bear Creek before climbing up the gully on the far side of the creek. From there the trail makes a few swithbacks and begins a steady ascent up the Bear Creek drainage, running parallel to the creek for a mile. After crossing a bridge over the creek near some pretty waterfalls, the trail begins a long series of switchbacks up a ridge that runs between Bear Creek and an unnamed tributary. Eventually the trail straightens out and continues to follow Bear Creek again. After crossing some clearings caused by avalanches and passing through some small meadows clinging to the side of the canyon, the route emerges into the open granite basin that contains Big Bear Lake. Alongside the trail, the creek cascades over open, granite slabs. Mount Shasta looms far to the east. The path finally ends near the creek’s outlet at the east end of Big Bear Lake. The 1,300 foot granite cliffs surrounding the lake are magnificent. Returning to the slabs, a cross-country route leads to lovely Little Bear Lake and the underappreciated Wee Bear Lake. Both are worthy of the effort to reach them.

The hike to Tangle Blue Lake stays in close proximity to Tangle Blue Creek for the duration of the hike into the lake. The first portion of the hike follows an old road with numerous opportunities to scramble down to the creek and enjoy the cool, clear water. Eventually the road fades out and the route becomes single track. After passing a small meadow the trail crosses the creek and makes a gradual climb uphill to a crossing of Marshy Creek, which originates in Big Marshy Lake, located 1,000 feet higher up the canyon wall from where the trail is. Beyond the crossing the Tangle Blue Lake Trail enters a large, lovely meadow where the granite towers above the lake become visible for the first time. After crossing the creek again, a short, final climb leads to another meadow and Tangle Blue Lake. Granite cliffs form an inspiring backdrop behind the lake, which is ringed with verdant meadows.

The driving route from Mount Shasta to the trailheads for the Bear Lakes and Tangle Blue Lake Trails.

It is undeniable that Mount Shasta is the polestar of the northstate’s geography. It is roughly at the geographic center of the region and is also centrally located between the Klamath Mountains and the Modoc Plateau, near the crest of the Cascade Range that cuts across the state’s north/south axis. Obviously location is not the extent of the explanation for Mount Shasta’s gravitational pull on the surrounding area. It is simply a massive, spectacular mountain of epic proportions that stands over a mile above the next tallest peak. Such incredible size and beauty naturally offers great hiking opportunities and Mount Shasta does not disappoint when it comes to great trails. There are 9 established trails on Mount Shasta (of course, there are numerous other unofficial hiking routes) and all of them are very scenic.

Glacier-clad Mount Shasta above the Clear Creek Trail.

It goes without saying that all of the trails on Mount Shasta offer amazing scenery and are worth hiking. Whether one is looking for meadows, glaciers, waterfalls, far-reaching views, great views of Mount Shasta itself, solitude, or adventure, the trails on the solitary volcano will supply all of these things and satisfy the thirst for the opportunity to enjoy one of nature’s finest achievements. While all the trails are great, there are three that I find rise above the others. Each of them must have diverse, spectacular scenery, the opportunity for lots of cross-country exploration and lead to premier destinations on Mount Shasta. Furthermore, I have an additional set of qualifications a trail must meet in order to rank high on my personal list. Most importantly, a trail has to have running water somewhere along it, preferably in the form of a waterfall. Other important considerations are consistent views (as opposed to being under constant forest canopy) and lots of rock or cliffs along the trail.

The large cataract flows through the middle of Squaw Meadow.

Most of these elements are present on nearly all of Mount Shasta’s trails to some degree but three trails have these qualities in abundance. Consequently, these are my three favorite trails on the mountain and the three trails I would most recommend to hikers in search of the optimal Mount Shasta hiking experience. These trails are the Clear Creek Trail, the Brewer Creek Trail and the Squaw Meadow Trail. All of these hikes have exceptional views, both of Mount Shasta and the surrounding region. They all have running water and fall and waterfalls in one form or another. Moreover, they all boast beautiful meadows of varying size (though in the case of the Brewer Creek Trail, it is just a narrow margin of grassy meadow along the banks of the creek). None of the trails are hard, rising and falling at a reasonable grade. Lastly, of all the trails on Mount Shasta, these three trails have the best cross-country destinations. If I had to rate these three trails against each other, I would say Clear Creek comes in third, Brewer Creek second and Squaw Meadow would be the top choice. This was not easy for me to determine because each trail is exceptional.

Climbing Mount Shasta’s southeastern slopes, the Clear Creek Trail offers an incredible abundance of superlatives. Essentially a steady ascent along the rim of massive Mud Creek Canyon, the first two-thirds of the trail offers excellent wildflowers and staggering views into the gargantuan canyon, the largest on Mount Shasta. Powerful Mud Creek Falls, dwarfed by the canyon through which it flows, is a highlight. Clear Creek itself tumbles over a long series of cataracts as it rushes to its confluence with Mud Creek. The mighty cone of Mount Shasta dominates the scene overhead. Eventually the trail reaches treeline and enters a massive basin over which hang the Mud Creek, Konwakiton and Watkins Glaciers. A large complex of springs constitutes the headwaters of Clear Creek and creates a series of lovely meadows. Off-trail exploring leads down to Mud Creek Falls, lower Clear Creek or up to the summit of Mount Shasta.

The lonely Brewer Creek Trail is the only path that explores the vast, isolated expanse of Mount Shasta’s eastern flank. The views of Mount Shasta are simply stunning, possibly the best of any single trail on Mount Shasta. This particular perspective of Shasta has a bit of a grander feel than most because the Wintun and Hotlum Glaciers (Mount Shasta and California’s 3rd and 1st largest) are very prominent, with their attendant bergscherunds, icefalls and crevasses. The trail eventually ends at small but beautiful and clear-running Brewer Creek, where the small fringe of meadow and diminutive cataracts create a lush environment seemingly out of place in the barren volcanic landscape. Those looking for more adventure and make the off-trail trip to gorgeous Ash Creek Falls. The creek is outflow from the Wintun Glacier and passes through a starkly beautiful canyon before pouring 330 feet over a lip of hard, erosion-resistant rock. Mount Shasta, presiding overhead makes the scene utterly unforgettable. Views of the southernmost Cascade, including Lassen Peak are just icing on the cake. Ash Creek Falls is my personal favorite spot on Mount Shasta.

Perhaps the most diverse trail on Mount Shasta, the trail to Squaw Meadow provides the rare opportunity to enjoy a loop on Mount Shasta. Beginning in lovely Panther Meadow, the trail climbs through excellent old-growth red fir forest before breaking out into incredibly barren volcanic terrain with great views of Mount Shasta and Red Butte. A side trail leads to the summit of Gray Butte and incredible views while a cross-country route makes a great circumnavigation of Red Butte. After passing through the Gate, a narrow gap between Sargents Ridge and Red Butte, the trail eventually arrives at the bottom of Squaw Meadow, the largest meadow on Mount Shasta. It is a stunning view with Shastarama Point dominating the horizon beyond the meadow. A massive 100 foot cataract divides the lower section of the meadow from the upper section and the headwaters springs. Views to the south from the upper meadow include the southern Cascades and Lassen Peak. Numerous cross-country routes provide lots of interesting exploration. The best is to head east from the meadow to the rim of Mud Creek Canyon where one can observe Konwakiton Falls. On the return trip, the loop breaks away just after passing through the gate and climbs through small Hummingbird Meadow to a ridge above the Old Ski Bowl. More excellent views of Mount Shasta are abundant, as is the spectacular vista to the west, including the Trinity Divide and the serrated peaks of the Trinity Alps. The trail then descends through the Old Ski Bowl and then drops down to Panther Meadow, completing the spectacular loop.

Like so many other places in the western United States, the Mount Shasta area had a fairly light winter in terms of snow fall. Last winter was below average but still significantly heavier than it was this year. However, the two winters prior to that, in 2011 ans 2010 were both extremely heavy winters. Both of them boasted large storms that dropped copious amounts of snow. The storm of 2010 in particular was both heavy and wet. The result was the downing of several trees which consequently knocked the power out for the entire community for days. Before these storms the winter of 2009 was a bit below average, though the two prior to that were well below. The weather is remarkably volatile from one year to the next. As a resident, it is nice to have mild weather in terms of snow removal as well as early springs, which means we can get up into the high country sooner. This year things were accessible in May. A couple of years ago, it was not until around the 4th of July that we first got up to the crest of the Trinity Divide. Still, for the overall health of the region, after a couple light winters, one must feel some urgency for an average or heavy winter.

I put together a few time lapse videos of Mount Shasta from the last few years. They are all dated from July 15th. The difference in snow level is stunning.

This year certainly is low, but there have been lower years. The winter of 2007 was lower and was then followed a couple years later by epic winters. The climate is always in flux and snow levels have always fluctuated from year to year. At some point the pendulum will swing the other way and we will have another epic storm and another winter with heavy snowfall. This year though, get out now if you want a chance to hike with any snow on the ground on Mount Shasta. Of course, you could always head to the mountain’s north and east side where the glaciers are growing…

The Everitt Memorial Highway climbs its way up the southern flank of Mount Shasta, ultimately reaching an elevation just over 7,800 feet. It is one of the highest paved roads in California and, among roads in the Northstate, second only to Highway 89’s ascent of the southern slope of Lassen Peak. The road was initially paved so that it could provide access to the Ski Park that was built during the 1950’s in what is now known as the Old Ski Bowl. Skiing operations continued until 1978 when an avalanche wiped out the park. Less than a decade later, the ski park reopened at a new location on the mountain, lower in elevation and without the danger of avalanches. The road up to the Old Ski Bowl remained and continued to be used by those who loved Mount Shasta. This came as no surprise since the Everitt Memorial Highway continued to provide quick access to the stark beauty of the Old Ski Bowl and the nearby serenity of verdant Panther Meadows even if the ski park was gone. Much of the year, the Everitt Memorial Highway only goes as far as Bunny Flat, a somewhat level clearing on Mount Shasta that is at about 7,000 feet. During winter the road is only plowed this far up the mountain. However, once the snows have melted, the gate closing the road is opened and it is possible to continue driving a couple more miles up Mount Shasta to both Panther Meadow and the Old Ski Bowl. Though the two destinations are separated by nearly 1 mile of road, it is a tightly switchbacking, steeply climbing mile, meaning that they are closer than the mileage indicates. They are also connected by a short, easy trail. Moreover, it is possible to gaze down on Panther Meadow from the Old Ski Bowl. Consequently, though they are two very different destinations, the bowl and the meadow form one large use-complex. Indeed, in the summer and fall months, this area sees the most concentrated use on the mountain.

Mount Shasta looms above Panther Meadow.

A perennial favorite of hikers, strollers and seekers of all kinds, Panther Meadow is by far the most easily accessed garden on Mount Shasta. It is an easy stroll of only a few yards from the parking area before one is deposited on the edge of a lush, well-watered meadow. Wildflowers abound and small streams course through the grass. The water originates from the Panther Springs at the north end of the meadow. Looking to the north, the great cone of Mount Shasta seems to float above the meadow. To the east, the sheer silver walls of Gray Butte mark the horizon. It is, by any standard, a very beautiful location. Such beauty does not go unnoticed and though it is never crowded, Panther Meadow is rarely bereft of visitors. This is exacerbated by the presence of a Forest Service campground immediately adjacent to the meadow.

The Old Ski Bowl from the parking area.

Literally the end of the road, the Old Ski Bowl is a spectacular destination on Mount Shasta. For those with limitations that prevent them from exploring the mountain on foot, the Old Ski Bowl offers an opportunity to get a taste of what the mountain’s hinterland is like. Nearly at treeline, the bowl is a stunning, barren basin set between Green Butte Ridge and Sargents Ridge. Green Butte, Shastarama Point, Thumb Rock and the area just below the summit of Mount Shasta (the actual summit is just out of sight) all preside in lofty isolation above the parking area at the end of the road. To the south, views of the Castle Crags, Grey Rocks, the Trinity Divide and the jagged horizon of the Trinity Alps give visitors a sense of the great elevation they have achieved. Like at Panther Meadow, Gray Butte is also a presence at the Old Ski Bowl. Whether sunrise, a daytime picnic or a glorious sunset, the Old Ski Bowl is a fantastic destination for a quick Mount Shasta fix.

Squaw Meadow.

The south side of Mount Shasta is naturally the busiest part of the mountain. This is understandable considering the paved access to the high country and the incredibly convenient location of the Everitt Memorial Highway. The road begins right in town, next to the high school. It is only minutes away from Interstate 5. Six trails, which is over half of the trails on Mount Shasta, begin on the road. Two start at Bunny Flat, two, the Gray Butte and Panther Meadow Trails, at Panther Meadow and one, the Old Ski Bowl Trail, at the Old Ski Bowl. A final hike to Squaw Meadow (in this hiker’s opinion, the finest on Mount Shasta) has trailheads at both Panther Meadow and the Old Ski Bowl. The two trailheads plus the use of the Panther Meadow Trail allows this hike to be done as a loop.

Located next to the popular Panther Meadow campground, Mount Shasta’s most famous garden is one of the most scenic spots on the mountain. With awesome views of the summit and other landmarks including Green Butte, Shastarama Point, Thumb Rock and Casaval Ridge, the trail is an easy opportunity to enjoy the spectacular scenery as well as the serene setting. The southern half of the meadow sees more traffic than its northern counterpart. This is due to its proximity to the campground, the passage of the trail to Gray Butte and Squaw Meadow and some people lack of awareness that there is another part of the meadow. The short Panther Meadow Trail climbs from the campground along the edge of the lower meadow before entering a dense glade of hemlock. From there it follows the spring-fed creek upward until emerging at the edge of the lush upper meadow. The trail splits and makes a loop around this area, with a short spur to the spring. Excellent views of the Castle Crags and Trinity Divide add to the already wonderful views of Mount Shasta.

The climb to the summit of Gray Butte is the shortest trail on Mount Shasta. In such a spectacular location short by no means necessitates a boring hike. The trail initially passes through Panther Meadow and then climbs through a glorious Red Fir forest. Numerous large, old-growth firs populate the area, as do lots of large boulders that make fun scrambling opportunities for kids. The trail climbs to a pass between Gray Butte and a rocky, unnamed ridge. Here the trail separates, with the eastward path leading to Squaw Meadow and the southward trail continuing to Gray Butte. Beyond the junction the Gray Butte Trail passes through an excellent hemlock forest as it skirts the east side of the butte. Below the trail a valley separates Gray Butte from its more remote and impressive cousin, Red Butte. Eventually the trail swings around and heads north up a ridge to the summit of Gray Butte, a spot known as Artist’s Point. From here a grand view of Mount Shasta and much of Northern California’s greatest mountains unfolds.

The upper reaches of the Old Ski Bowl.

Old Ski Bowl Trail The trail climbing into the heart of the Old Ski Bowl was once the access road that serviced the chairlift and other aspects of the now gone ski park’s infrastructure. Now it makes a great hike up into Mount Shasta’s barren volcanic hinterland. The addition of a few connecting use trails and some additional old service roads has made this trail into a loop. It begins climbing immediately, swinging to the east side of the bowl. It then begins a long traverse to the west, seemingly headed for the base of giant Green Butte. It soon becomes apparent that Green Butte is harder to reach than previously appeared and that there is a hidden valley on the north side of the lightning rod-like peak. The Old Ski Bowl Trail begins to encounter ruins and relics from the ski park in the area. The trail continues to wind its way north, toward an obvious bench where the last few krummholtz trees hug the bench’s rim. Atop the bench is a large complex of concrete and steel ruins, remnants of the top of the ski park’s chairlift. Beyond this point the trail climbs into a vast screefield below Thumb Rock, where the trail eventually peters out. On the way back down, near the base of Green Butte, the obvious loop option splits off of the main route and heads south toward the parking area. In addition to great views of Green Butte, the trail passes a small, lush spring, the only water of consequence found in the Old Ski Bowl (there are some other seeps but they never have running water).

Possibly the finest hiking on Mount Shasta, the trail to South Gate/Squaw Meadow (see the trail description for details on the name) has everything one would expect from a premier trail on a premier volcano. Excellent views of Mount Shasta and distant mountains, old-growth forests, volcanic wastelands, lush meadows, abundant water and cascades, lots of room for spectacular off-trail exploration and even a sense of deep isolation are found on this hike. Beginning at Panther Meadow, the trail climbs to the junction where the Gray Butte Trail heads up to the butte’s summit. From here the Squaw Meadow Trail dips down to a barren valley and skirts the base of Red Butte. After passing through South Gate (a narrow gap between Red Butte and Sargents Ridge), the trail passes through more old-growth before depositing hikers at the bottom of the meadow. Lots of running water, originating from numerous springs, runs through channels cut into the lush grasses. Halfway between the trail and the top of the meadow, the water runs over a 100 foot high, increasingly vertical cascade. Great views of Mount Shasta are to be had, especially from the bottom of the meadow. An off-trail scramble leads to the rim of massive Mud Creek Canyon and a view of Konwakiton Glacier and Falls. After passing through South Gate on the trip back, turn west at a junction in order to follow the loop option. Beyond the junction, the route climbs through Hummingbird Meadow to a pass overlooking the Old Ski Bowl. Proceed down through the bowl to the Old Ski Bowl trailhead. An unofficial but obvious trail departs the east end of the parking area and completes the loop by connecting to the Panther Meadow Trail. The scenery and views are magnificent for the entire hike.

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