Any salmon, especially the deep red wild sockeye, will benefit from a generous dollop of this smoked salmon butter. The smoky-velvet taste lends a robust character, so little other embellishment is needed. Make it in advance and keep in the freezer, and you have an uncommonly elegant dinner in no time. The butter will lift a fillet of arctic char, butterflied trout, seasonal shad or other white-fleshed fish.

Preparation

Use a knife to mince smoked salmon. Place in a small bowl. Add butter and, with a fork, mash together until well combined. Add lemon zest and dill and mash in. Scoop butter onto a work surface, form into a cylinder about 2 inches in diameter, wrap in plastic and freeze. Have 4 dinner plates warming.

Heat a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, on medium-high. Add oil and brush to coat entire surface. Pat fish dry and place fillets, skin side down, in pan. Increase heat to high and cook about 3 minutes, until skin has browned. Turn the fillets and sear on high until flesh side has browned and is cooked to desired degree of doneness, another 2 to 3 minutes for medium to medium-rare.

While fish cooks, remove butter from freezer and slice into 4 patties. When fish is done, place a fillet, skin side down, on each dinner plate. Dust surface of fish with salt and pepper, place a portion of smoked salmon butter on top of each fillet and serve.

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