I found I can go anywhere from a high knife-like shot to lower sweep-ish shot that glides out with good control. I just can't do a shot that goes straight then turns right. A semi-shallow C is about the best I can do. I think the trick is to use a hyzer-flip but I haven't really mastered those yet. I can get them to plane-out flat, but not turn over.

I learned something last night while tossing around some cheetahs that I recently bought.
Throwing an understable disc with the right amount of hyzer will result in a flight path which curves left at first, then continues straight. Kind of a hyzer flip, but not quite to the flatten stage. In comparison, an overstable disc thrown flat will curve at the end instead of the beginning. This may not be anything new to some of you, but I thought I would contribute anyway

I will definitely be throwing more hyzers with understable discs in the future.

I did follow through high on the plane of my throw. The light headwind probably had a hand in the peculiar flight since I don't think I have extreme speed. I will have to try it as you described when the wind is lower. I can't think of any tee shots that this would be useful for, but can definitely see how it would come in handy for a bad lie.

Went out and worked on assignment #1 last night. Discs I used: Champ.Firebird, Champ Sidewinder, X Stratus, Z Buzz, APX Swirl, & Pro Rhyno. The straight shot was pretty much normal except that I found that I had to put severe (more than I expected) anhyser on the Firebird in order to get it to finish on my projected straight line. The stratus flipped flat and flew very straight.
The sweeping hyser was more comfortable as this shot I use often. I was surprised with the distance and air time of the stratus.
The S shot was interesting as I only had done this before with my drivers. I found that I needed much more height in order to have the understable discs time to flex back. Again, I had to put severe anhyser on the Firebird-that was cool.
The turnover shot was more difficult. It was obviously the easiest with my stratus and apx swirl. I was able to get the sidewinder, rhyno, and buzz to hold the line. However, I could not get the Firebird to stay going right. Any tips with that would be helpful. I was playing with nose angle but didn't get it right for the firebird.
Overall, I discovered the following: Hyser flips can be used for super straight shots, an overstable disc can take a huge amount of anhyser, and an understable disc can handle an extreme hyser release. I was also surprised at the air time of the stratus on the S shot. On to assignemnt #2. Bernie, Michigan

'The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese." Steven Wright

my best luck having my overstable (pred) holding a anny is controlled wrist roll, I am surprised that I accually will use a controlled wrist roll, most often to get a wizard to turn right and straighten out.
I also found (im not sure wether this is coincidence or practice or what) that after learning how to intentionally roll my wrist I do it accidently much less often.

These excercises are awesome and they will be included in training program for the 08 season in our club.

I think you could devote single sessions to the hyzer and anhyzer. I was fiddling around with anhyzer that were pretty much thrown like a very steep knifehyzer (basically straight up into the air). It was very interesting to see the flightpaths, that different discs would create. Essentially my spikes and rocs would hold the very steep line although my most overstable rocs would tend to rise a little bit from the steep angle. The drivers would rise more and more until I got to a point where they would come out of the turn and fade.

This last shot can be useful if you need to throw right around or over something but still need it to flatten out or finish left.

I gave this practice a try, and it made a really big change in the way I play (at least for now)

I did this drill with every throw being a backhand. I have been playing for about 3 or 4 years, but only seriously in the summers usually. I'm comfortable reaching 300 foot stuff, and get really excited when I throw anything further than 340 or 350 on flat ground.

Anyway, I've always sort of avoided uncomfortable throws in my game by simply making up a more comfortable way to throw it. If there was ever a way to make a tomahawk, sidearm, or roller replace a shot with an uncomfortable amount of hyzer/anhyzer, then I would take it. But this drill forced me to get comfortable with them without the risk of an embarrassing scorecard

That said, as I was doing this it was largely trial and error to figure out how much hyzer I needed to make an understable driver still fade, a putter go straight for 250 feet, etc. It had always been just guesswork for the past few years, but this drill allowed me to make sort of a system for it.

The system is this, and feel free to evaluate it for better or for worse. On every throw, the basic mechanics of the shot is the same. The only thing that I change is which part of my body I throw the disc from. To be specific, I have nose, shoulder, chest, bottom of the ribs, belly button, belt, belt with disc pointed to the ground, and belt with disc pointed to the feet. So with this system, if a disc went right when I wanted it to go straight, I just moved it down another notch in the system.

So for me, this drill really built confidence for me because I am no longer throwing shots by feel, but I am just duplicating a shot that I already know works. Teebird needs to go right? Just throw it from the ribs. No more guesswork involved in my rounds, it's just a simple plug and chug formula.

I think this has also helped my form because my throw is simpler now because I simply line up the disc at the correct position BEFORE the throw, so it takes a lot of thought out of the process for me and allows me to just focus in a good clean throw without worrying about where it goes.

The only thing that worries me is if this system is going to mess up my throwing mechanics in the long run. Any comments?

s-curves: surprisingly hard to get my valk to come back after the turn. i've been throwing it with hyzerflip for a long time as a straight drive, and couldn't seem to get it to have any low speed fade back (a great characteristic when i want it straight but not for this shot)also surprisingly: the firebird was unbelievably controllable for this shot, and went a lot farther than i thought it would (this is probably b/c i had to use more force to get it to do the shot and with the other discs i wasn't putting quite that much energy into it, but still - a very nice thing to learn and know). also - i could NOT get the buzzz or banger to curve back. it was kind of like their taglines: whatever line i put them on they would not come off of. the s-curve with the sidewinder was subtle, but still there a little bit. i chalk that up to my consistent use of this disc as a straight long range driver with hyzerflip, and me not figuring out quite how to get it to make more of an S

turnovers: no problem with anything. but the firebird surprised me again as being a lot more controllable than i thought it would be

consider me enrolled in these assignments: very educational. thanks blake