I just checked the instructions, which don't say much about anything. It definitely had no mention of what you are referring to. My only modification is de-pressurized pf. I happened to stumble across Saeco's instructions on how to use the unmodified pf, which Starbucks didn't even mention, although that now means nothing to me. When the ready/brew light is on does that indicate weather the heating element is on, or just went off, or something else? Thanks- Martin

Martin, for grins (humor me...lol) when that brew light goes off, open the steam valve for a couple of seconds, close. Feel the steam coming outs. If it's HOT, well, maybe your's is a new model. If wet and only semi-hot, then this is the correct procedure.I BET you the boiler will come back on and STAY on for at least 30 seconds. To me, that indicates the machiune only reached operatingn tempo when the wand bleed is incorporated in your routine.

I thought that the false pressure bleed was for machines with P-stats. That would affect a pressure sensor and then the temperature controlled by pressure. I should stick with my Gaggia, but thought other SBDUs were similar. I know that you need to make sure that the boiler is full of water or you blunt the pump pressure and can cook the element.

Your doing a FINE job, never a need to apologize!!BTW, which model is your Gaggia. if it has a 3 way release valve, then THAT'S why you don't have to release pressure. Craig, or someone, please correct me if I'm wrong here.I've been a lever guy a LONG while now! :>D

Rob, Thank you. I have a Classic and 3 way. I have never heard of SBDU machines adjusting temperature by relieving false pressure. My steam is always wet for several seconds and the steam is PID controlled. OTOH, any bleeding off of water or steam can lower the temperature enough to click on thermostats. To me that is a way of surfing the temperature. I only know the term false pressure and its relation to temperature with P-stats, not T-stats.

I feel the need to apologize if I offend, whether right or wrong in the discussion. Being wrong is part of learning at times, poor presentation is not. Sometimes tone and intent does not come across well in print.

Rob, Thank you. I have a Classic and 3 way. I have never heard of SBDU machines adjusting temperature by relieving false pressure. My steam is always wet for several seconds and the steam is PID controlled. OTOH, any bleeding off of water or steam can lower the temperature enough to click on thermostats. To me that is a way of surfing the temperature. I only know the term false pressure and its relation to temperature with P-stats, not T-stats.

I feel the need to apologize if I offend, whether right or wrong in the discussion. Being wrong is part of learning at times, poor presentation is not. Sometimes tone and intent does not come across well in print.

Fred, I NEVER picked up anything remotely offensive, sir!Yeppers, I realize opening the wand will cause the boiler to come on, but I don't believe it causes (in most cases0m a loss of temperature, at least not with my fromer Cremina. It was the opposite, in fact.The lack of a release gives the machine the idea it's ALREADY at a proper temperature, which it's not (with machines of which I speak.)Again, I may be off base here. My current frame of reference is my (now former) Olympia Cremina lever, which has no release of pressure, but has a pstat...a Ma-ter.The steam valve MUST be opened to allow the machine's boiler to reach it's true temperature. In this case there is no reservoir, you pour directly into the boiler, so THEREIN may be the reason my premise could be faulty. I will look for my old manual from the Barista. I am POSITIVE it, and the Briel Chamonix, required the steam wand opened. Some of the earlier machines, like the Solis 70 "suggested" that to get the machine to temperature to proper temperature, run 7-8 oz of water through the wand and group.

This is all semantics, but if our OP is trying tom operate his machine 10 minutes after he turned it on, it will be well below operating temperature, IMO.It can't hurt to bleed the wand 2 seconds, and let that little boiler come on again.

Again, as was mentioned, you have been the hero on this thread, and exemplify what a good CG member should be about. We have MANY such members, and for that all us "old timers" are grateful.

A note to end the false pressure discussion and hopefully bring it to the correct conclusion. Rob and I think that we resolved this off forum and share our findings about how differing machines handled their rise to proper temperature.

This quote from Bill Crossland on HB, “One simple way I used to explain this to customers is: Everything expands when heated. Gases expand faster than solids. In the case of a steam boiler with air and water; when heated the gas (the air) expands much faster than the solid (the water). The pressure in the boiler increases quickly due to the expanding air. The expanding air causes the pressure switch to activate, turning off the heating element. Once the air is released and is replaced by water vapor then everything returns to normal.”

Machines without P-stats, the inexpensive SBDUs, should not have this explanation as pressure has no way to control temperature. As it happens, the Cremina has no vacuum breaker...unless you buy the newer Cremina boiler cap which has this. But people burn themselves on it when removing it.

So Martin, sorry for the diversion and it does not seem to apply to your machine.

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