My Ceviche: Sam Gorenstein's Fishy Business Is a Welcome Addition

After quite a bit of deliberation at the teeny counter of My Ceviche, I decided to order ceviche. It might seem the obvious choice, but it's not necessarily an easy one to make when seafood tacos are also on the menu. Seafood tacos are on my shortlist of both must-order and must-avoid dishes, depending upon the integrity of the restaurant. One of the many nice things that can be said about My Ceviche is that it's got lots of integrity.

For instance, its fish are brought in whole and then prepared on the premises. That's really what makes the ceviche, fish tacos, and other items here better than those at most other seafood places. You don't need a two-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Rising Star Chef to figure it out, but apparently it helps.

That reference is to Sam Gorenstein, who last October left his position as chef de cuisine at BLT Steak on South Beach and six months later emerged as chef/partner of My Ceviche, a take-out/delivery service opened with partner Roger Duarte of George Stone Crab.

On one occasion I tried the shrimp ceviche, and on another the "local fish," which was yellow jack (also known as coolihoo, which I think is a superior marketing name). Octopus is the third option. If you want all three seafoods, it's $1.95 extra. Otherwise, a medium serving is $11.95 and a large is $14.95. Both are generous.