There’s a triangle in Ruaha National Park, bordered on the
south side by the Mdonya river, the escarpment running north east, and on the
east to south side by a section of the Ruaha River’s floodplain. Through the
middle runs a sand river, the Mwagusi, creating an incredible area for the
charismatic wildlife that gives East Africa its reputation. Like many places in
East Africa, water is the limiting resource that determines wildlife abundance,
and the Ruaha, Mwagusi and Mdonya Rivers provide just that- permanent (though
not always obvious) water for herds of hundreds of buffalo, elephants, giraffe,
zebra, impala, yellow baboons, and their predators: lions, leopards and
cheetah. But it is a relatively small area in Ruaha’s extensive landscape.

Our first stop was a campsite on the Mdonya River. It was
the end of the dry season, so water was limited to a few places where elephants
knew to dig. We’d just driven 15 hours straight from Arusha, but were sighing
in relief as the familiar sounds of the African bush comforted our souls. None
of us bothered with the rain flies for our tents and went to sleep to the sound
of the African scops owl. Lions roared as the walked by at about 4 a.m. but it
wasn’t until the ring-necked doves started their morning call to work that Tom,
our camp assistant, woke up to stoke the fire and get the coffee going.

Our first campsite under a Lebombo wattle (Newtonia hildebrantii).

Day 1.

Our first order of the day was a meeting with the tourism
warden and a couple of rangers to discuss our expedition. Some recently opened
roads were making access into some of the least visited areas of the park
possible and we wanted to know if they would work for walking safaris. For many
of us, walking is a way of experiencing a quieter side of nature and escaping
from the diesel-engine-run game drives and trappings of luxury camping. Waking
up to a thermos of coffee and going to bed after a sipping whiskey by the fire
were all the luxury we needed; it was about the wilderness.

The magical triangle in Ruaha- see map below for context.

As we left the magic triangle we climbed up into the hills
behind the escarpment and were rewarded immediately by a racquet-tailed roller
who fluttered along side. “Lifers” were being added to the list and for most
guides with passion like us, that is one of the most exciting things. The next
lifer for a few of us, only a few minutes later, was a herd of Sable antelope:
one of the most beautiful of all antelopes, and particularly exciting as they
are miombo woodland specialists. The miombo woodland was also changing in
anticipation of the rains, and with colors that would compete with a Vermont autumn.
Vivid reds, purples, blue-greens, light greens; it was beautiful.

With 7 of us in the vehicle, food for 8 days, camping
equipment, and our libraries, water was our biggest challenge. The 90 litres we
could carry required us to take every opportunity we could to refill, and
determined our campsites over the next few days.

We arrived at the first campsite as the evening light became
intense and vibrant and what unfolded became the schedule for the next week: unload,
set up tents, collect firewood and light fire, unpack and prep dinner, carry
the basin to the stream to bathe and then sip on a cold beer, reclining on
thermarests, binoculars on chests, and reference books open. We didn’t need to
meditate or even think about focusing on the moment; it just was, pure, the
product of a love of wilderness and like-mindedness. Sleep came quickly, as it
does in the bush.

Racket-tailed rollers.

Day 2

As the night sky began to change, the fire was stoked and
coffee water boiled. Each of us woke to our own beat, grabbed a cup of coffee
and the first moments of the day were appreciated in respectful quiet.

With heavy rainstorms imminent we followed Thad’s suggestion
and headed to the furthest point we wanted to reach. The grass got greener and
longer as we drove around the Kimbi Mountains. We saw more game that day: sable,
zebra, giraffe, warthog, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and even some lions. However,
to say that wildlife was prolific would be very misleading.

Lichtenstein's hartebeest- a miombo speciality.

On maps, the Mzombe-roundabout appears to be the headwaters
of the river. It is also on the border of the park; in essence, the end of the
road. The grader driver literally created a cul-de-sac roundabout. In the past,
the Petersons had walked the Mzombe River further downstream before trophy
hunting and administration in the bordering Rungwe Game Reserve had become so
profit-oriented that they stopped respecting the buffer to the park and hunted
right to the edge. Yet, the Petersons’ stories of encounters with lions,
elephants, hippos and more had left an impression of this river, one that was
not fulfilled at the headwaters.

Incredible flowers.

A natural bouquet. Nature does it better.

Delicate Orchids- Eulophia coculata.

Instead it was incredibly green, and the hills
invited walking. It had obviously rained enough to bring out the wildflowers
and on the walk the next day in addition to wonderful birds like thick-billed cuckoos,
spotted creepers, and yellow-bellied hyliotas, we admired the proliferation of
flowers.

Day 3

Having walked for 7 hours in the morning, we returned to
camp for lunch. The clouds were building and we had already been dumped on
while walking. We packed up camp, and made our way back around the mountain. Our
third camp was at the base of the mountains in a small clearing. Purple crested
turaccos hopped around in the trees and as darkness fell, barred-owlets, tiny
little owls, began calling.

Water re-filling break under a Faidherbia albida.

Day 4

The next morning we set off early, and were fortunate to
quickly find a proper elephant trail leading up into the hills. Elephants are
big animals and just naturally take the best route. The switchbacks were there
when we needed them and the path that wound its way up around rocks and to the
top of the hills made it a real pleasure to climb the hill. A rocky outcrop
distracted us as we paused for peanuts, homemade cookies and water. More new
birds made our list but a particular highlight was 2 sightings of Chequered
elephant-shrew.

Photographs cannot capture the extensiveness of this wilderness.

We returned to camp at around 3, exhilarated by the climb.
Lunch was quick and we headed off to a clearing we had passed a couple of days
before that we believed we could drive down to get to a river known as the Lupati,
a tributary of the Mzombe. We barely made it half a kilometre when the woodland
became too thick to drive through. Small drainages were converging and a couple
of times we ran into dead-ends. We did have good sightings of Roan antelope and
that evening as we watched nightjars hawk the sky, we heard our first
elephants.

Just a lunchtime chill.

Day 5

Spectacular storm build-ups warned us that we should
probably head back to the Ruaha River, so after our usual breakfast we took a
shorter walk before proceeding to head towards Usangu. We entered the new
addition to the national park and drove and drove. It was a long day of
driving, but the landscape kept changing as we pushed on. It was not until we
made it into the lower areas that we began to see more wildlife, particularly
giraffe and impala. There was evidence of game and in one clearing we had great
sighting of sable, roan, and bush pigs foraging in daylight. Scuff marks and
tracks in the road told a story of Africa wilddogs killing a warthog.

Roan antelope- another Ruaha speciality.

We arrived in camp as it was getting dark. Camp was on the
river, just meters from a pool with over thirty hippos in it. We quickly set up
camp before settling down on the riverbank to watch the birds fly by and hippos
grunt their disapproval of their new neighbors. As darkness set in, we scanned
the water for crocodile eyes- 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 pairs of eyes watching us.

Day 6

The sun had not come up yet, but the sky was changing. Coffee
cups in one hand, binoculars ready to train on birds flying by, we sat and
watched. This was really a grand finale for us. It was a slightly slow start
but this was the area we would most likely come to walk next year and I wanted
to explore. We set off for a couple of hours and then returned to take the
vehicle. There were campsites we needed to examine and stretches of river to
see. The roads had not been graded as they had the previous days, and the going
was tough enough that my vehicle is being repainted as we speak. A stump wrote
off a tire, but those are the costs of adventure.

Pel's fishing owl.

Day 7

It was the usual morning routine, but as we sipped our
coffee and contemplated the view, we knew we were leaving today. We took down
our tents and then took a quick walk along the river before climbing back into the
vehicle for the ride home.

Standing at 3,470m above sea level staring at the world’s
largest lava lake makes you feel quite insignificant. It was cold at 4 a.m. and
the precipice we were standing on kept us present, but the lava lake itself was
mesmerizing We could feel the heat, generated in the depths of the Earth, the
deep orange-red lava expressing itself vehemently, sometimes as explosive
fountains and sometimes a moving kaliedescope of constantly shifting black
plates. Occasionally the crater would fill with smoke and steam and all you
could sense was the sound of the incredible deep rumble of the cauldron.

Nyiragongo, Democratic Republic of Congo

Standing at the top of Nyiragongo was one of the highlights
of a sixteen-day safari that included two mountain summits and a combination of
wildlife experiences. We began the safari by summiting Mt Meru, Africa’s 5th
highest mountain (4568m asl). Climbing through the rich forest, through the
heath and moorland vegetation zone, and finally onto the alpine desert gave us
opportunities to enjoy a variety of beautiful birds including tacazze sunbirds,
bar-tailed trogons, and silvery-cheeked hornbills.

A view of the ash cone in the right bottom corner and Little Meru.

An enchanted forest full of birds.

Incredible natural patterns.

The inner walls of the crater. Mt. Meru was once 5200m high, until the crater collapsed like Mt. St. Helens, in an explosion that was 10 times the magnitude of Mt. St. Helens.

Next up was Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is a classic
African savannah complete with red soil, gigantic baobabs, and wildlife
concentrations around water. We camped in the thick of it, close enough to a
water-hole that we could hear elephants drinking, the water gurgling as it poured
down their throats. We could smell the buffalo when they came down to drink,
and when the lions roared we instinctively held our breath. Tarangire is also special
because a tiny extension of the Somali Maasai Biome brings specialties like
lesser kudu, fringe-eared oryx, and gerenuk.

The small fascinating stuff on a walk.

A lion track.

Our next destination was the Democratic Republic of Congo.
To get there, we had to fly to Rwanda, stay a night in Kigali, and then drive
three hours to the Gisenyi-Goma border crossing. The process hasn’t changed
much since 2011 (read about it here), but by lunchtime we had arrived at Mikeno
Lodge. Mikeno was our base for the next couple days, and the morning after
arrival we drove up to Bukima Tented Camp to trek for gorillas.

A playful gorilla.

A sniffer dog used to catch poachers.

As you know, I place a lot of emphasis on experiences when I
design safaris, often more than the level of luxury or comfort. For this
reason, visiting Congo is exciting because that is what it is about. Mikeno Lodge and the new Bukima Tented Camp are very comfortable, but more importantly
they are well situated for the experience. Gorillas are known to wander through
the camp, and recently a group of chimpanzee moved into the forest around the
lodge. Strolling around the lodge you can see beautiful colobus monkeys, blue
monkeys, l’hoest’s monkeys if you’re lucky, and, if you get up early and head
of with the trackers, chimp viewing.The operational headquarters of the national park are also next to the
lodge so you can get insight into conservation including a visit to the gorilla
orphanage or the tracker-dog kennel.

The gorilla trekking rules in Congo are also slightly
different to Rwanda and Uganda. A mask is essential to prevent transfer of
disease from us to the gorillas, and the number of visitors allowed to a group
is smaller. The authorities are also flexible and should you wish, you could
actually trek to see two gorilla families in one day.

After completing our two gorilla treks, we returned to
Mikeno Lodge to prepare for our Nyiragongo ascent.The ICCN, who places the safety of tourists paramount, had
only opened the volcano to visitors a few days before. We would have been the
first visitors up the volcano had a small group of UN peacekeepers based in
Goma not jumped at the chance a couple days before us. Like Mt. Meru, the climb
takes you through rainforest and a heath and moorland zone. It is beautiful,
but also steep. At least half of the climb is on the very uneven exposed
surface of the lava flow of 2002.

Incredible plants.

The lava lake at 4 a.m. Nyiragongo.

The lava lake at 5 p.m. Nyiragongo.

We returned to Kigali exhilarated by the climb and tired
from the lack of sleep. The next morning, we headed to Rubondo Island in Lake
Victoria for a night. We should have included two nights on this beautiful
island, but I wanted to spend a good three days in northern Serengeti rounding
off the safari.

Elephants in Serengeti.

I had hoped to catch the tail end of the wildebeest
migration as they headed south, but their early exodus had also drawn with it
the multitude of camps and tourist vehicles leaving us virtually alone. As
usual, the wildlife viewing was incredible: the cats including a mother cheetah
with her four cubs who we watched hunt an oribi for dinner, lions and lion
cubs, and to put the icing on the cake, a black rhino strolling across the plains
as we spent our last morning before the return flight to Arusha.

I remember the first time I managed to launch off a hill,
suspended by a paraglider, tense and terrified. An Auger buzzard took off from
a tree below me, soaring the same uplift I was on. Effortlessly, it turned,
riding the wind while I continued to tense my body as I flew straight, my goal
just to land.

I love flight, especially low-level flight. I’m not a pilot,
but the different perspective, looking down at the ground from above, or
looking eye-level at a cliff or mountain fascinates me. Over the last few
months of safari, I’ve flown in helicopters, balloons, Cessnas, Boeings, and
even a private jet. While the larger planes aren’t as much fun, here are a few
images taken from the smaller flight vessels.

My first balloon flight was in June this year in northern
Serengeti. A steady wind was blowing and I was a bit bewildered but equally
excited as we lay on our backs, the loud fans blowing air into the balloon and
burners roaring. The balloon filled and lifted, pulling the basket
upright, the force of the wind jerking and tugging. Suddenly we lifted, and for
a few seconds it was silent as we rose up leaving behind a frantic crew as they
prepared the chase vehicles.

The fans blowing air into the balloon.

The burners on full-power creating the hot air that will lift the balloon.

The views are incredible.

Wind= bumpy landing.

The balloon experience in Namibia was very different. We arrived at the balloon launch site, the balloons being filled. There
was hardly a breeze, and the pilot uprighted the basket and balloon before we
climbed in. Silently we began to rise. The colors in the desert as the sun rose
were incredible, the hues of blue, orange, pink, and grey so soft.

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The landing was different too, made easier by the lack of wind, and I
was impressed by the conscientiousness to the fragility of the desert. The
pick-up pulling the trailer stayed on the road as the pilot communicated our
location. By throwing a piece of webbing that the crew grabbed, they were able
to bring the basket down directly onto the trailer.
We will occasionally charter a plane. Not only does it maximizes time spent on the ground by allowing us to create our own schedule, but we can ask the pilots to detour or fly low. I took the following photos from the Cessna caravan en-route to Serengeti and then Rubondo Island.

Wildebeest and migration trails on the Lamai Wedge in northern Serengeti. (August 2014).

As you approach Rubondo Island, the intensity of green stands out. Read about Rubondo here.

Flying across the western border of Serengeti National Park. Population pressures are growing.

My first experience with helicopters was guiding in northern Kenya on a safari organized by Charlie Babault. This year I saw Victoria falls and flew over Rwanda in a helicopter. The ability to hover, the ability to fly through valleys, and the ability to fly slowly allow extra appreciation of the different perspective of being in the air.

Mosi o-tunya, Zambia.

In Rwanda, we saved time and got a birds-eye view of intense small-holder agriculture, and a dense population.

The sun was setting: a typical Tarangire sunset that turns
the sky an amazing orange, framing cliché Umbrella acacias and baobab trees.
The campfire was lit and the solar-heated water showers were being hoisted into
the tree. One of the kids was climbing a fallen tree and setting up the go-pro
for a time-lapse photo. It had been a long and good day. After a game drive
lasting nearly 10 hours, we’d seen so much: herds of elephants coming to the
swamp to drink, countless zebra sightings, impala, giraffe, a leopard in a
tree, and a lion by a termite mound, not to mention additions to the bird-list
that the oldest boy was keeping. We’d even seen a snake: a Rufous-beaked snake,
(not an everyday sighting).

A pride of lions had begun roaring a few hundred meters
upwind at 5:30 in the morning, close enough that even a seasoned safari go-er
would say it was close. A troop of baboons was trying to get to the tall
sycamore fig-tree that was in camp, but had to settle for the sausage trees on
the edge of camp. It was the epitome of the immersion experience.

The next morning, we woke at again at dawn. The wildlife
hadn’t been quieter, but everyone had slept soundly. The kettle of cowboy
coffee simmered on the campfire as we discussed the day’s plans. It was going
to be another long day of driving, but with the opportunity to see rural life
in Tanzania. Our destination was also exciting as we were preparing to spend a
couple nights camped in a remote part of the Eyasi basin among the Hadzabe.

The last part of the drive is an adventure in itself.
Low-range is engaged and the car crawls up the hill, rock by rock until finally
the track levels out and, sheltered by a rock, camp is found, exactly the same
camp as in Tarangire. It wasn’t long before we were sitting on top of the rock,
overlooking historic Hadza hunting and gathering grounds, watching the sun go
down once again.

A Hadza high up in a baobab after following a honeyguide to the beehive.

The next morning, a small group of Hadza hunters walked into
camp. One had already shot a hyrax and had it tucked in his belt. Honey axes
slung over their shoulders and bow and arrows in hand, they lead us to where
some women had begun digging for tubers. We were soon all distracted by the
excitement of finding kanoa, or
stingless-bee honey. Another distraction ensued when a Greater honey-guide flew
around us, chattering its call to follow. You can’t plan these spontaneous,
magical experiences.

Digging for tubers.

I continued to dig for roots with the women as the family I
was guding followed the Hadza guides who in turn followed the bird, eventually
finding a tall baobab tree, the hive high-up on the lower side of a massive
branch. I don’t know if it is just for fun, but on numerous occasions I’ve
watched Hadza climb the baobab trees without smoke to placate the bees and haul
out the combs dripping with honey. Judging by the laughter, it seems that they
find being stung somewhat comedic. So much for African killer bees. Following a
mid-morning snack of honey, bees wax, roasted roots and hyrax liver (no kidding,
everyone tried!) we returned to camp for a more traditional (for us) sandwich
after which the Hadza hunters showed the boys how to make arrows and fire, and
in the evening took them on a short hunt.

Making fire!

Now your turn!

The last attempt for a hyrax before heading back to camp.

Having spent the first four nights of the trip in the
light-weight mobile camp, we next made our way to more luxurious
accommodations, swimming pools, lawns to play soccer on, and unlimited hot
showers.

A budding wildlife film-maker watches as a breeding herd of elephants cross the plains in front of us. (Northern Serengeti)

There is something about privacy and after visiting
Ngorongoro Crater, we were all happy to be headed to the more classic luxury
mobile camp in Serengeti; not for the luxury, but for the privacy. We’d timed
it perfectly, and rains in the northwest of Serengeti were drawing wildebeest
herds back toward the Nyamalumbwa hills, also a sanctuary for black rhino.

Watching giraffes or are they watching us?

There is something about privacy! Enjoying sunrise in the Nyamalumbwas.

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by Nicol Ragland Photography

Identity

I am a guide and guide trainer working in East Africa. I love adventure and the solitude and peace that comes from being in the wilderness. It has led me on a search to learn as much as I can about the larger forces and concepts, as well as little intricacies and beauties in nature. I am a strong believer in conservation that is sustainable and that recognizes indigenous and other people's rights.