Shops under a volcano? The dangerous lure of Mount Etna

The best view of Mount Etna is from the gods of the ancient Greek amphitheatre in Taormina. From here it looms over this coastal town, famous for its pistachios and hosting the G7 summit, swallowing up the landscape. The snow stripes the sides, even in early summer. Smoke plumes rise up. It looks almost fake. At nearby Fanaberia Gelateria, though, they say that to them the volcano is always alive.

During the last few eruptions, families would barbecue meat and fish over slow-moving lava