Would this be a good (inner) barrel option? I currently use a Madbull Black Python 6.03 in 363mm length, would like to further improve, rather than lose, my range while going to a shorter barrel if it's possible. I'm open to suggestions for barrels that don't cost $9001, too, so if the above resembles cat feces be sure to let me know.

That would probably work, as I've heard good things about Madbull barrels, but there are two concerns that jump out at me:

-6.01s are more finicky, if you get anything in the barrel it'll jam. This is a serious consideration for an assault rifle.

-I'm not sure that a tighter tightbore will really increase your range by much. It'll boost muzzle velocity a little, and if your gun's inaccurate it'll improve that (although if you're using a 6.03 that shouldn't be a problem), but range is more determined by your hop-up than your barrel.

For just decreasing size I don't think you'll have any issues, I remember reading about how someone found that barrel length doesn't actually affect accuracy much so I doubt you'd lose any accuracy or range from going to a shorter barrel.

Until yesterday my barrel was never cleaned once, or lubed, and it never had any trouble. Methinks a 6.01 is not something to be paranoid over, my friend who is a tech has one and it doesn't jam like people assume it does (he probably takes better care of his guns, but whatever). I won't be stuffing my barrel in the dirt, right...? Should it jam, I'll simply unjam it, or switch to my pistol if I have no time.

My hop up setup is good for now, I would simply like tighter groupings.

I don't know what other batteries will fit, because I'm not going to run a 1100 mAH 8.4 at 10 bbps. Unless I was told wrong that a 7.4 lipo is just slower than a 9.6 nimh, I'm trying to find a 7.4 that will fit and I know will pull a faster motor.

It shouldn't, it'd just run bbs through it faster which ruins the bucking quicker and other parts.

This isn't my field of expertise, but I do know that running the parts faster doesn't just accelerate wear, it increases it, with higher stress on all the parts even per cycle. A stock CYMA won't last for the same number of shots with an 11.1V as from an 8.4V, for example. I'd be very, very wary of a stock clone gun using an 11.1V LiPo. It would probably get great performance- but only for a while before breaking, probably eating gears.

At the very least, if you're going to use an 11.1, make sure to properly re-shim the gearbox as stock Chinese shimming is almost always terrible and the gun will not survive at high speed.

That charger is decent, but look for an imax one, those are really good. A lipo alarm is an ok purchase but a lot of times they malfunction, so whenever you notice trigger response lagging or a drop in rof, you know it is time to switch it out for another.

What is an acceptable grouping on semi auto at 70 feet (assuming a well placed shot while standing ect.)? I'm getting about 3-4 inch groupings if I had to guess. How much total effective range should this net? My Systema bucking got damaged/worn or something and this is what another bucking raided off another gun is doing. I urgently need to know if this is even remotely near acceptable for field play, as this will determine whether my next game is CQB or not.

What is an acceptable grouping on semi auto at 70 feet (assuming a well placed shot while standing ect.)? I'm getting about 3-4 inch groupings if I had to guess. How much total effective range should this net? My Systema bucking got damaged/worn or something and this is what another bucking raided off another gun is doing. I urgently need to know if this is even remotely near acceptable for field play, as this will determine whether my next game is CQB or not.

Uhh, groupings aren't really important. Accuracy by volume is the best solution most of the time. Odds are that people won't call your hits from long range anyways, so whether you play outside or not, treat it like you're playing CQB.
Get as close as possible and lay down large amounts of fire, and whatever you do don't stand still.

I'm pretty much on semi-only all the time, due to rules or just out of fear of my lipo causing my gun to go boom sooner. Suppose I have no option to get closer without being hit easily? The Saturday game is at a field with lots of open areas.

Somehow it's shooting slightly better than my CA sportline which, for all it's faults, has very impressive stock range...do I need that little black clip thing that goes over the barrel on the hop up unit? It blocks my hop up unit from being pushed all the way into place now, though the whole assembly will fit just fine without it.

That clip prevents the barrel from twisting, so its pretty important. Your bucking might be a bit long and interfering with its fit.

The best way to get close is to do what people don't expect, the obvious. People aren't really prepared for runners, and few people can compensate properly, especially when you're on semi. All those DMR's will fail when you start running, trust me, for all my love of my SVD, its not that useful against sprinters.
Running parallel to their lines and flanking is very handy, if possible move in a slow quarter circle. Run parallel to them but move slightly closer as you go. Most importantly, find any bits of cover you can and make them landmarks. A 2 foot deep trench is not bad at all. Most importantly, when you're running, the pressure's off your team so they'll be able to fire with ease. (whether they do or not is a different story)
Also, try to get someone to run with you, at my last outdoor op, I led a charge which evened the entire field when 10-15 people stuck with me.
Keep in mind, I'm doing this with a pistol and my MP5K, so there's not much accuracy going on, I just put people's heads down until I'm close enough to hit them. I used to do the same thing with my MAC-11, because that thing was really good at scaring people into cover, but I missed having lots of ammo.
The best advice I can give is to just go through with it. Sometimes you'll get shot and accomplish nothing, but more often than not you can really mess with people.

Edited:

If there's no way to get closer, than do it anyways. There's always a backdoor somewhere.

(the first album is more accurate to what it looks like now, occasionally the mounds are moved, the bushes once got burned down by a pyro test and have since grown back, ect.)

I switched barrels (was using the stock VFC one, now back to my madbull barrel) and the clip is working again. After a cleaning + lubing I'm shooting right again, seemingly, but I still seem to remember my gun shooting like a laser before. Anything I should do to maximize my range? New bucking/nub suggestions, ect.?

Field pics are very handy, looks like you've got an easier time than I was expecting, although none of the pictures give a me a real idea of the scale of the place.
Not sure if this link will work, but this looks pretty ideal for running in:http://www.bakholdinphotography.com/...gj3ps&lb=1&s=L

If your other bucking is broken, replace it with the same kind if you can. There aren't any free/short term solutions for accuracy past what you've done. Just make sure the barrel is perfectly straight up so you're getting a minimum of fliers and that's all I can tell you.
Look into one of the fancy cool things like flat and r hops when you have time and consider doing one of those. I know that evetunally I'm gonna get a TK twist barrel in my MP5K (If I can ever find one in stock) and that'll really help me throw down on some people.

In fact, if you wanted, I'd consider letting you borrow my MP5K sometime so you could try it out before you buy one.

Right now, if you're willing to crouch/go prone it's not too hard to avoid being hit simply due to the all the bushes.

How perfectly straight up should it be? I still get fliers frequently, say every 5th shot, which veer off and miss the spot I'm aiming at by a good foot and some change. When putting the barrel in, I aligned the groove thingy as straight up as I could, though it might be off just a hair. Is that enough to be causing problems?

Right now, if you're willing to crouch/go prone it's not too hard to avoid being hit simply due to the all the bushes.

How perfectly straight up should it be? I still get fliers frequently, say every 5th shot, which veer off and miss the spot I'm aiming at by a good foot and some change. When putting the barrel in, I aligned the groove thingy as straight up as I could, though it might be off just a hair. Is that enough to be causing problems?

Are all of your fliers going into the same direction? That's normally a sign your barrel's slightly off. Barrel alignment doesn't cause fliers, but it makes them more severe them by adding a left/right component to them. If your fliers aren't consistently to one direction, your barrel is probably not the issue.

You should probably just look up a hop-up guide on a more comprehensive site so you can really figure things out for yourself. Most of my knowledge is just trial and error.

Well, I had to replace the pistonshit anyway, and I have a little bit of cash I was going to spend on a new bucking, think it'd be worth it? The reason I ask for the KWA is because I just realized that the KWA has a weird hopup or whatever