Tuesday, November 28, 2006

What do you do, especially given the current infatuation with autochthonous varietals, if the only really exceptional red grape your region boasts is an unusual Moscato that yields tiny amounts of a fascinating sweet wine with a stunning bouquet?

You can ask for advice, and one of the Valcalepio producers I talked with a couple of years ago told me that he did go to see Luigi Veronelli, the pioneering Italian food and wine writer who first recognized the importance of Sassicaia many years ago. Since Veronelli lived in Bergamo, and could look out in the direction of the Valcalepio production zone from the city's ramparts, asking him seemed like a good idea.

"He said, 'Plant Nebbiolo!'" the producer told me, adding that, given the success the nearby Valtellina has with Nebbiolo, the advice seemed sound. He paused and shuddered: "The wine was horrible."

The other option is to continue along the path forged by one's ancestors, who, faced with the same problem more than a century ago, decided to plant French varietals, in particular Cabernet and Merlot. Why go with the French? Because the French have been working to improve them for centuries -- they are, after all, the backbone of Bordeaux -- and in obtaining quality also obtained consistency. In other words, Cabernet and Merlot are much more likely to give good results in a new area than are the more finicky Italian varietals, say the above-mentioned Nebbiolo.

And it was precisely this reasoning that led the Cantina Sociale Bergamasca, the local cooperative winery, to settle upon a Bordeaux-style Cabernet-Merlot blend for the red wine when they requested the recognition of the Valcalepio Appellation in the mid-70s.

This was a time of dramatic change in the countryside around Bergamo: Industrialization was in full swing and the tenant farmers were abandoning the land they had farmed for generations in favor of newly created factory jobs; as a result the landowners, many of whom had no agricultural experience, found themselves forced either to roll up their sleeves and administer their estates directly, or to sell to others interested in taking up farming.

Given the state of flux, it would have been quite easy for the different producers to go off on a variety of tangents, as it were, and had this happened the region could well have suffered the sort of agricultural collapse that swept though Chianti in the early 70s. Instead, the establishment of the new appellation, coupled with the support and advice provided by the Cantina Sociale, helped stabilize the agricultural economy and lay the foundations for its future development.

The initial appellation allowed for the production of two wines:

Valcalepio Rosso, which is 25-60% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the remainder Merlot; minimum alcohol content is 11.5%, minimum aging is a year, at least three months of which in wood, and maximum yield is 100 quintals/hectare.

Valcalepio Bianco, which is a blend of 55-80% Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay, with the remainder Pinot Grigio; minimum alcohol content is 11.5%, and maximum yield is 90 quintals/hectare.

In 1993 two more wines were introduced:

Valcalepio Rosso Riserva, which is 25-60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Merlot; minimum alcohol content is 12.5%, minimum aging is 3 years, at least one of which in wood, and maximum yield is 100 quintals/hectare.

Valcalepio Moscato Passito, which is made from the Moscato di Scanzo grape; it has a minimum potential alcohol content of 17%, of which 15% must be effective, have a sugar content of 30-80 grams/liter, be aged at least 18 months, and a maximum yield of 6500 quintals/hectare, or 6000 if it's labeled Moscato di Scanzo, which can only be made in the township of Scanzo.

"Well and good," I hear you say, "but why should I be interested in an obscure Bordeaux-Style blend from Italy?"

Because both Cabernet and Merlot have adapted nicely to the hills around Bergamo, and the wines are pleasant, especially the Valcalepio Rosso, which tends to combine nice fruit with lively acidity that keeps the wine on its toes and makes it a good companion to meat-based pasta dishes, light stews, and grilled or roasted meats, including fattier cuts such as roast chicken with the skin or even ribs.

Valcalepio Rosso Superiore is also interesting, though here I have some reservations; it is, as one would expect from the word Superiore, more powerful than the Valcalepio Base, but there isn't quite as much a unity of vision among the producers. Some simply worked to achieve greater concentration, depth, and finesse within the pattern established by the Valcalepio Base, and these wines I liked. Others instead bulked up their Valcalepio Superiore, combining considerable concentration with equally considerable small wood, and in doing so achieved heavy handed and rather lumbering results.

Valcalepio Bianco can also be quite enjoyable, though to be frank, I found them to be less distinctive than the Valcalepio Rosso Base -- the international varietals used to grow them are perfectly happy in their new surroundings, but haven't really developed a local flavor. This for the official Valcalepio blend, which consists of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.

Bergamo does have some local varietals, however, and the Cantina Sociale Bergamasca is experimenting with an autochthonous white grape called Manzoni that favorably impressed me at Vinitaly this year. I hope other producers will begin to experiment with it too -- they could find themselves with a good, distinctive wine to bring to market, and those are always nice to have.

Finally, the passiti made from Moscato di Scanzo are extremely interesting, and if you like passiti you will want to seek them out.

In short, the foothills behind the Bergamo are becoming a wine producing area. Much of the credit for this transformation is due to Count Grumelli Pedrocca Bonaventura, President of both the Cantina Sociale Bergamasca and the Consorzio Tutela Valcalepio, whose vision has guided the development of the Valcalepio Appellation. And to Sergio Cantoni, Director of the Consorzio, whose experience as an enologist has allowed him to help the winemakers improve the quality of their wines.And improve they have, since I first tasted through the region a few years ago. It's obvious that many winemakers are still getting a feel for their land, and I did encounter some wines that were technically deficient in the course of tasting this spring, but the average level has risen considerably, and I expect it to continue on this path in future years.

Winding down, some vintage observations:

2005: We're limited to whites for now, many of which display considerable grace and elegance.

2004: A good vintage for red wines; they display considerable balance and grace, without the excesses that plagued the preceding two vintages.

2003: It was hot in the Valcalepio region too, and the wines reflect this, with an overripe softness and settled feel to them that is a direct consequence of the vintage.

2002: A lean vintage, with wines that are brambly and thin. But they do drink nicely, with food, and have something to say. Drink them now, however.

2001: A beautiful vintage, nicely balanced and combining grace and power. The wines are ready, but will hold nicely for a few more years if you'd rather.

Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot not apparent.Pale brassy white with brassy highlights. The bouquet is deft, with some white berry fruit laced with mineral acidity; it gives an impression of crispness that is confirmed on the palate, where it is medium bodied and graceful, with bright mineral-laced white fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by bitterness that provides direction, especially in the finish. Graceful, and will drink nicely with antipasti, or with fish. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca Il Leukos Valcalepio Bianco 2005Barrel SampleThis is fermented in wood; it's brassy gold with greenish highlights, and has a muted bouquet, which one can expect from a barrel sample, though some bitter minerality emerges with time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright wb that gains roundness from butterscotch, while support comes from clean mineral laced acidity that continues at length. Promising, though it's too young for one to say much more.

Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca Manzoni IGT 2005Prerelease SampleThis wine merits some explanation: Mention Manzoni to most Italians and they'll think of Alessandro, the great 19th century novelist. However, in the Bergamasca they may remember that it's a white grape, a cross between Riesling Renano and Pinot Binaco that the farmers used to grow in their vineyards, but is now largely abandoned.This may change, however, because the Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca has begun making it again, and I was much impressed.The 2005 Manzoni Bianco IGT is brassy gold with green reflections and brassy highlights, and has an intense bouquet with bright floral accents mingled with honeysuckle and slight petroleum (from the Riesling parent) that adds freshness and definition. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's intriguing, with bright tart white grape fruit -- it brings Moscato laced with lemon to mind -- supported by lively fairly mineral acidity that flows into a long clean fruit laced finish with deft acidity and further hints of petroleum that may sound odd, but work very well.It will be very nice as an aperitif, with creamy delicate risotti, or with flavorful not too fatty white fish.Bottom line: I think they've got a winner. The next step will be for the other producers of the Valcalepio region, whose white (Valcalepio Bianco) is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, to follow the Cooperativa's lead, and help reestablish the gem they're fortunate enough to have.2 stars

Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca Valcalepio Rosso 2004Lot 5.055Lively ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively black currant fruit supported by some dusty vegetal notes and violets, with underlying alcohol and pencil shavings. Quite fresh. On the palate it's light, with brisk red berry fruit supported by acidity that has some vegetal overtones and flows into a clean fruit laced finish with a bitter underpinning to provide direction. It's scrappy, a wine that has zesty aggressiveness and will drink very well with foods; it would be nice at a cookout with grilled meats and pasta salads, or with first course dishes. Something to set out and drink, and it will go quickly.2 stars

Produttori Riuniti Cantina Sociale Bergamasca Akros Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2002Lot 6.051Black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is deft, and fairly light, with berry fruit mingled with vegetal notes and hints of graphite, with some peppery spice as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with light fairly acidic berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and tannins that are smooth and fairly light; the finish is long and tart. It's pleasant and approachable in an aggressive key, and will drink well with grilled meats. A nice expression of a lean vintage.2 stars

Il Calepino Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot 40.06Pale brassy white with brassy green reflections. The bouquet is bright and rich, with tropical fruit laced with slight gooseberry and deft ripe pineapple acidity. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, and fairly languid, with bright pineapple fruit supported by deft acidity that gains direction from pepper and hints of sage, and flows into a fairly long clean fruit laced finish. It's pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with first course dishes -- hearty soups, vegetable-based pasta dishes, and so on. Worth seeking out.2 stars.

Il Calepino Surie Valcalepio Bianco 2004Lot 255.05Lively pale brassy greenish gold with green highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright pungent pineapple fruit laced with some sea salt and slight savory greenish herbal notes. On the palate it's fairly full and rather languid, with moderately intense pineapple-laced white berry supported by moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. It's a bit settled, and not quite as tight as I would have liked.1 star

Il Calepino Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot 295.05Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet reflections and cherry rim; look young for a 2003. The bouquet is fairly bright, with jammy berry fruit supported by deft cedar and some sea salt, with quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with graceful berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that lay an unexpectedly angry burr over the tongue and flow into a frankly tannic finish. It's a bit heat struck, and though the tannins may never settle, their zesty anger will work well with succulent grilled meats or fried foods. Expect it to age well for a couple of years.2 stars.

Il Calepino Surie Valcalepio Rosso 2001Lot 32105Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a little wild, with underbrush and forest berry fruit mingling with spice and peppery notes, and with further swishing brambly balsamic acidity. On the palate it’s full and smooth with bright forest berry fruit supported by clean red currant acidity and fairly smooth tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with brambly overtones. It's pleasant enough, though I'd have liked somewhat better definition and a little more fruit. Drink it with red meats.1 star

Villa Domizia Valcalepio Bianco 2004Lot 5.90Pale brassy gold with slight greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with mineral acidity and some fairly rich golden delicious apples with slight underlying sea salt and bitterness that increases with time. By comparison with some of the others it's more restrained. On the palate it's medium bodied, with deft mineral acidity and clean fairly rich tart golden delicious apples that flow into a moderately long slightly savory finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif or with delicately flavored fish.1 star.

Villa Domizia Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot 5.140Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with cherry and plum fruit laced with ripe blackberry, and supported by some brisk mineral acidity that keeps the wine on its toes; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's lighter and defter than I expected from the nose, with bright berry fruit supported by citric acidity that fades into an unusual savory hazelnut finish that is frankly off. A pity, because the beginning was promising.

Villa Domizia Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2001Lot not apparentLively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cherry fruit laced with vegetal notes and supported by clean cedar with some menthol and sage. Harmonious, and with further swishing some graphite also emerges. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean forest berry fruit supported by deft red currant acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean citric berry fruit finish with lasting warmth that gradually fades, giving way to fruit. Quite pleasant, a deft, lively wine that will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out if you like this light, lively style.88-90

Le Corne Gonzaghesco Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot 060.06Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is closed -- it had been recently bottled and was bottle-shocked -- though swishing brings up delicate floral notes with some underlying apple peel and savory overtones. Graceful. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate white berry fruit supported by mineral acidity; the overall impression is a trifle lax and I might have liked greater crispness. This said, it will drink well with fish based antipasti, creamy risotti, and similar dishes.1 star.

Le Corne Messer Bianco Valcalepio Bianco 2004Lot 26.05Lively brassy white with greenish reflections and highlights. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable butterscotch supported by some mineral acidity; the overall effect is deft but also, unlike the Gonzaghesco, fairly generic -- the local nuances are overshadowed. On the palate it's medium bodied and again oaky, with butterscotch supported by bright citric acidity that flows into a fairly long citric finish with butterscotch overtones. It's good, in a thoroughly oaky key, and also graceful, but you have to like this sort of thing, and it could be from anywhere. Drink it as an aperitif.2 stars.

Le Corne Gonzaghesco Valcalepio Rosso 2004Lot 06006Lively ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with black currant fruit supported by deft red currant acidity and some menthol with underlying cedar. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with lively red berry fruit supported by abundant red currant acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with vegetal notes that are likely the Cabernet. Deft, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Medolago Albani Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot 09016Pale brassy white with greenish brassy reflections; the bouquet opens nicely, revealing fairly bright herbal and floral accents mingled with some sea salt and apple peel. Both deft and elegant. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with pleasant white berry fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity that flows into a long rather languid finish. If you like bracingly crisp wines you'll find it a bit soft, but it will drink nicely as an aperitif , or with fish or vegetable based risotti, overtones delicate white fish dishes.2 stars

Medolago Albani Valcalepio Rosso 2004Lot 268229Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich black currant fruit supported by some citric acidity and by deft greenish notes with underlying cedar that gains menthol as the wine opens. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with bright deft red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins while direction comes from deft raspberry acidity. Pleasant in a fairly light key, and will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews -- either red or white meat; it's also quite young and will develop nicely over the next year or two, though I wouldn't keep it much longer.2 stars

Medolago Albani I Due Lauri Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2002Lot 15075Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with underbrush and red berry fruit mingling with menthol, delicate spice, and hints of savory almonds, which are unusual in a red but work well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with graceful red cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's obviously from a lesser vintage, but displays considerable grace and will drink well with elegant meat-sauced pasta dishes or quickly grilled meats, and could also work well with light stews.2 stars.

La Rocchetta Valcalepio Bianco 2004Lot 0708Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and brassy green highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly greenish berry fruit that has some hints of animal hair and is supported by moderate savory acidity. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with languid overripe pineapple fruit that has some savory accents and is supported by moderate acidity that falls off quickly to a slightly bitter finish. It's direct, and a touch lax. Drink it as an aperitif or with simple risotti or vegetable dishes.1 star

La Rocchetta Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot 1905Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with herbal notes and slight animal tang mingling with berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol, all overlying strong vegetal notes. The Cabernet comes through, and it feels hot. On the palate it's full, with bright jammy red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. Pleasant in a hot weather zesty key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, including fattier cuts. Expect ti to age well for 3-5 years.2 stars.

La Rocchetta Castel Merlo Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2001Lot 0904Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar and some red berry fruit, but mostly oak. On the palate it's full and again oaky, with moderately intense vanilla-laced red berry fruit -- no veneer, at least -- that flows into a long clean oaky finish. It's unbalanced, with oak overshadowing the fruit, and though the oak will fade some with time there's too much for me.1 star

Bonaldi Cascina del Bosco Valcalepio Bianco 2004Lot 116Pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is bright, with mineral accents and bitter gunflint that gains in intensity with swishing. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with moderately intense rather languid mineral laced white fruit supported by mineral acidity and some savory bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif or with fairly rich fish dishes, including fattier grilled fish.2 stars

Bonaldi Cascina del Bosco Cantoalto Vino da Tavola Bianco 2003Lot 111Pale greenish brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is deft, and intense, with very ripe pineapple fruit laced with bitter honey, butterscotch, and savory overtones mingled with herbs and sage. Pleasant in a charged sunny way. On the palate it's full and a bit softer than I had expected -- the effects of 2003 -- with clean white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and lasting bitterness that flows into a long clean finish. Pleasant, and though I would have liked greater crispness, when one considers how much heat softens a wine and how hot the summer of 2003 was, they've done quite well. Drink it as an aperitif or with flavorful white fish.2 stars

Bonaldi Cascina Del Bosco Cantoalto Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2002Lot 105Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsamic notes and underbrush mingled with sea salt and some green leather, with underlying tart spice. Cold, somehow. On the palate it's light, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by deft warm brambly acidity and slight tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. It's very much a child of a lesser vintage, but displays a certain scrappy grace and will drink well with light stews, grilled meats, or fried meats and vegetables. It will be perfect in the proper setting.1 star

Il Cipresso Melardo Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot 01-06Fairly deep brassy white with greenish reflections and brassy green highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mango and pineapple fruit supported by moderate acidity that has grapefruit overtones. On the palate it's fairly full, and a touch more settled than I expected, with languid white berry fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity and underlying bitter notes. I'd have liked more tightness to it; it feels like someone has loosened the straps.1 star

Locatelli Caffi Valcalepio Bianco 2005Lot 06 93Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is bright, with herbal notes and some gooseberry mingled with very ripe pineapple and supported by mineral acidity; the combination is harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich pineapple fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some bitter gunflint overtones and flows into a fairly long bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif with fish-based antipasti, or at table with fish based dishes; because of its bitterness it will contrast nicely with sweeter shellfish. It will also hold nicely though 2007.2 stars

Locatelli Caff Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot 0655Black almandine ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with quite a bit of alcohol supported by bitter cedar notes and some savory sea salt laced with berry fruit; there are also marked overtones, which could be an effect of the extreme heat of 2003 upon the grapes. On the palate it's medium bodied with brisk red berry fruit supported by lively acidity that flows into a long clean tannic finish with greenish vegetal overtones. I found it growing upon me as it opened; it is heatstruck, but also graceful, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and will improve for another couple of years at least.2 stars

Locatelli Caffi Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2001Lot 0584Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is somewhat overripe, with berry fruit jam and warmth mingled with some hot iron -- not quite oxidized, but not perfectly clean either. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity that flows into a clean bright finish; the tannins are deft with bright peppery notes. A pity about the nose, because on the palate it's pleasant; it will in any case drink well with red meats. A second bottle had considerably less iron, but there were traces.1 star

Caminella Ripa di Luna Valcalepio Rosso 2004Lot 43551Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with cedar and some hardwood ash, with vegetal underpinning and spice. On the palate it's deft, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have bright savory overtones, while red currant acidity provides direction. It will drink well with grilled meats, especially fattier lamb or pork, and also with light stews.2 stars

Caminella Luna Rossa VDTLot A04This is a 2004, and is a Vino da Tavola because it also has some Pinot Noir, which isn't allowed in Valcalepio; it's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a bright bouquet with delicate vegetal-herbal notes mingled with black currant fruit, menthol, and some cedar. Elegant and refreshing. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit that has distinctly jammy overtones supported by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish with black currant overtones. It's pleasant in a slightly disjointed key, and will drink well, thanks to the aggressive tannins, with succulent grilled meats or lighter stews, and it will age nicely for 3-5 years, though it will never soften completely.2 stars

Le Corne Messernero Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2001Lot 5.05Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite international, with intense peppery jammy berry fruit balanced by equally intense cedary spice; the effect is harmonious and pleasant, but also generic in the sense that the wood overshadows the terroir, and as a result the wine could be from just about anywhere. On the palate it's full, with bright rich forest berry fruit supported by clean sweet smooth tannins, while deft acidity provides direction, and it flows into a clean berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in an elegant international key, and a touch less generic on the palate -- the citric acidity is a common denominator in these wines -- and will drink well with roasts or stews.

La Tordela Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot not apparent.Deep pigeon blood ruby with bright cherry reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit jam and black currant fruit supported by fairly deft acidity and some herbal notes. On the palate it's medium bodied and rich, with bright black currant fruit supported by fairly brisk vegetal acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's heat struck, and the anger of the tannins may never fade. It will, however, nicely balance fattier dishes, for example grilled chicken with its skin or sausage, and also work well with fried meats and vegetables. In short, it will be perfect in the proper setting.1 star

Tallarini San Giovannino Valcalepio Riserva 2001Lot 14.04Deep black almandine ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with bright berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity that rises up to tickle the nose, and by greenish vegetal notes that add depth. On the palate it's medium bodied, and deft, with bright berry fruit supported by crisp acidity and clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; expect it to age well for 3-5 years.2 stars

Foresto Valcalepio Rosso 2003Lot 0805Deep pigeon blood ruby with brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit mingled with hints of grilled pepper and some spice. Pleasant in a slightly overripe hot vintage key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by fairly brisk red currant acidity and by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean finish with tannic underpinning. A pleasant wine that will drink nicely with lesser grilled meats, hearty pasta sauces, or light stews. It will also be nice at a cookout, or with fried foods.2 stars.

Cavaga Foresto Valcalepio Rosso Riserva 2001Lot 6/04Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby highlights and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with menthol and cedar mingled with alcohol and spice, and supported by underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by lively acidity with clean sweet tannins that flow into a warm bright finish. It will drink quite well with foods, ranging from rich meat-based pasta dishes through grilled red meats, and will go very fast if you like this rather scrappy style.2 stars

Cantina Sociale Val San Martino Valcalepio Rosso 2004No lot number apparentPale ruby with black reflections and white rim; it looks light. The bouquet is fairly bright and somewhat overripe, with an unusual mixture of red berry fruit and vegetal notes with underlying spice that brings Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind. On the palate it's light and vegetal, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of acidity, while the tannic structure is decidedly light. Simplicity in a glass, and ideal for a cookout or a pizza -- it's quite clean, and I'm not nocking it, because there is ample need for this sort of wine.1 star

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.