Writeup Lilliput installation in TM-701L housing

Disclaimer: DO NOT TRY THIS...meaning I will not help anymore than this post. If you have never soldered something before, forget about it. If you have never worked on a breadboard before, its not that bad. I claim no responsiblities nor does this site or anyone else here in case the reader of the post f-s up their screen or housing.

Parts Required:
1 Lilliput (pref vga with touch or else this is pointless. I got mine on the group by (try searching if you're interested).
1 TM-701L housing which you can get http://www.digitalww.com/indashhousing.htmhere
1 Package of small tie wraps, you'll need a bit cause its a lot of trail and error
Electrical Tape
Solder
Small guage wire
One USB extension cord

Tools Required:
Soldering iron, I did mine with a 35watt gun, it will be easier with a small tip and lower wattage gun, but no biggie if you don't have it.
Pair of needle nose and cutting plyers
Power drill with a 3/16 or so drill bit
Screw Drivers, long and skinny.
Digital Multimeter

Timing Required: hmm 4 hours or so.

Prelude, if you want to save money than this is the way to go, else just get Armen's preassembled kit, easier and takes less time. Plus you can yell at him when it doesn't work and not yourself or me or this guide

1) Disassembly the lilliput, see Armen and WRX site for more info. Pretty much just take out the screws. I had to cut part of the housing to get the wiring out of it. Be careful not to pull too hard on anything wire-wise, if you break something you're up the creek. There are three (3) connectors from the circuit board to the lcd. http://www.mattoree.com/z/lilliput/PICT0032.JPGPicture

2) Once the screen is out of the housing, also remove the control panel up front. Using the solding iron, take out the ir receiver from the lilliput control panel. its the little black thing with three connectors. Don't break it!

3) Take your housing and remove the back panel, four screws. There are a bunch of other little brackets and whatnot holding the ribbons and such together, remove them, you won't need them anytime soon.http://www.mattoree.com/z/lilliput/PICT0034.JPGPicture

4) Take out the sliding cartiage from the housing and open the part where the lcd goes, if you haven't already that is. You'll want to cut a hole about where it is circled in purple. this is for the wires that will come out of the housing.

5) Inside the TM housing where the lcd goes, on the side with the window, there are two plastic clippy things on the top, cut'em both off and shave it down as best as you can. In purple again http://www.mattoree.com/z/lilliput/PICT0041.JPGPicture

6) Take out the button breadboard on the TM housing, four screws. Now somewhat the tough part. The easier path to go is to take the board from the TM housing and simply solder wires onto eash switch so that the wires may be spliced into the wiring from the lilliput. http://www.digitalww.com/VGA_Controller_howto.htm <-Pics here

7) Using the info from the WRX site and the post i've linked above, connect all the appropriate pins from the lilliput's cable to the TM board. For the ir receiver (which i think is the most important) i simply took off the one from the TM housing and put the Lilliputs there. They are different! and cannot be interchanged as far as i know.

8) Double check all the connections and cover appropriately with tape. Use a multimeter to be sure everything is correct. Test the screen to make sure it turns on and the buttons/remote works. Next take that little usb looking connector off the lilliput off. yup completely remove it. Take your usb cord and cut it in half, seperate the wires including the ground and reconnect them to the lilliput's board. In red http://www.mattoree.com/z/lilliput/PICT0041.JPGPicture
Pin 1 red
Pin 2 White
Pin 3 Green
Pin 4 Black
Ground to Ground

9) cover everything in tape or whatever you prefer. test fit the screen and make sure everything fits ok. I used some pieces of that usb cable to wedge in there to make it sit correctly and center. once thats done, feed the wires through the hole we made eariler and close the unit, use two screws from the liliput if your housing didn't come with any.

10) By far the most pain the *** part is next. getting the damn thing to close. You're gonna want to drill two sets of holes towards the rear of the housing on the bottom, where the wires will eventual come out. one right on the hole, the other set about 2.5 inches down.

11) Look at this picture and see how the wire is ran for the vga/touch signal. it was the pain in the rear to get it in there, i had to remove every screw i could and then that the damn thing was glued in there. The clear plastic part is what i'm referring to. Tie wraps are your friend from here on out.http://www.mattoree.com/z/lilliput/PICT0048.JPGPicture

12) Refer to Armen's guide for the rest. its pretty straightforward. http://www.digitalww.com/VGA_Controller_howto.htm[/url]

spyhunter - thanks for the writeup. Is there any way to re-use some of the cables provided with the in-dash housing ? I'm having some problems with the Lilliput 9-pin DIN connector and would like to avoid using it if possible - the image sometimes gets blurred and I have to twiddle with the connector to get it back.

Armen - if you are reading this, please let me know how my order for the in-dash housing is going !

Did you find anyplace to hardwire the power connector? I tested the solder points underneath the power connector on the board but I'm reading continuity on all four pads... I kind of don't wanna fry my lilliput, any ideas how to hardwire power to this thing?

hardwire what power connector? the switch that turns the lilliput on? see the WRX liliput page i think it was pins 5 and 8. or are you referring to the usb like connector, or the 12v adapter directly on the board? i just did the usb thing and ran it that way. i saw it as the easier way to go.

Yeah sorry bout that, still getting used to the board and all... Actually no, I was talking about where the barrel connector plugs in, I worked around it.

I opened up the lilliput and somehow during the install broke the little barrel connector receptacle thingie (sorry lack of better words). Anyway ended up just finding two good solder points that still worked, reinforced the broken plastic with epoxy and went on.

The writeup was EXTREMELY helpful, thanks... anyway here is the link with my new install. BTW ya didn't have to hack up your case, took all of five minutes to de-solder and resolder the wires to let the cable slide out I know it had to have been easier then soldering those ribbon cables... I bet that was a pain!