Reason # 1 Temp probe will fry at 700, maybe even at 400. Reason 1.1You probably can't get a probe replacement.Reason # 2You will need a fan setup, typically you can get cheap computer fans. The device seems to use AC, so you got a lot more parts to move to DC 12 V. Reason # 3They put a little logic inside the controller, for example when you open the keg, the temp will go way down, and your fan is stoking the fire. Since you have the lid open the coals will take off.https://bbqguru.com/productinfo/howtheywork

It appears like the inkbird is a non proprtional controller. If it is, this will run on or off, picture a fan the temp drops the stat kicks the fan on max until the temp rises, then the stat measures the kemp to be correct and kicks it off. The histerisis of that system will kill you, it would cause a massive spike then slowly drop and then start over. I am assuming all BBQ controllers are always proprtional and the fan speed varies somewhat. Or id the fan restricted to very slow?

Seems very interesting. I'm curious about whether it's just a fan, or fan and a door. A little too expensive for me.

I can think of one improvement, an extension hose, to move the device away from the keg. "The electronics inside are resistant to roughly 65C / 150F. So, folk should take care that there is no burning fuel close to the adaptor outlet as the heat and/or live charcoal may affect the unit. It's advised to use a water pan or even a wire barrier on the inside to keep charcoal a few inches from the adaptor outlet on the inside of the pit. "

It appears like the inkbird is a non proprtional controller. If it is, this will run on or off, picture a fan the temp drops the stat kicks the fan on max until the temp rises, then the stat measures the kemp to be correct and kicks it off. The histerisis of that system will kill you, it would cause a massive spike then slowly drop and then start over. I am assuming all BBQ controllers are always proprtional and the fan speed varies somewhat. Or id the fan restricted to very slow?

I think the logic in a pitmaster iq does short bursts. I saw it cycle about 50 degrees, when I was measuring.

Hey Kite (or anybody else interested), you wanna play with arduinos?I can dig up what I had. Basically measuring pit and meat twice (four probes). You get to play with uploading data points. Good thing to learn.

You will need:Arduino with EthernetLCDMaverick probes (4)Connectors (I can send you some)resistors.

Or you can get a raspberry Pi and figure this out with me, most of the Arduino code is in a varian of C, so it can be used.

I think those that have it like it, seems to have a little learning curve. It's good ol' Yankee ingenuity at it's best. Wish we had more of that....

I finally had some mitigated success with mine. It did provide extended periods of stable temperatures around 250F x 1-2 hours for about a dozen low/slow cooks.

However, it still needed some babysitting, as somtimes it would slowly allow Keg temperature drift - generally getting lower n lower, until risking fire going out.I wouldn't feel confident just setting it, babying it for only the 1st few hours, then going on errands, or sleeping overnight - leaving it completely unattended during very long cooks.

For the price, the TTT with the 5000, is certainly better than the stock 5000 on its own for low/slow temperature control, in my experieceOtoh, if you think you'll be simply "setting and forgetting it" over 9-10+ hour cooks, unfortunately you'may be dissapointed.

Perhaps electrical/fan ATCs are much better for "setting and forgetting" (albeit more expensive and will require modifying/drilling a hole in the 5000). I couldn't say. Maybe someone who' has had experiece with both can comment.