The oxtail is a pleasant diversion, simmering for hours in a tomato based braise, augmented with flavors of pepper, onion and herbs, it is strongly flavorful like brisket without being overpowered by the sauce.

That's not entirely a bad thing, since some of the highlights are lighter dim sum-style items, such as oxtail potstickers ($9) and crispy lumpia ($8), cigar-width Filipino-style egg rolls stuffed with pork, shrimp and smoked bacon.

Some of her best writing is inspired by a nostalgia for her childhood: My mother made wonderful soups from bones and hocks, unctuous oxtail stew, and homemade meat pies filled with a palatable mixture of odd bits.