table saw form factors...

I don't know of a way to search saws online by particular specs, so I
thought I'd draw on the collective experience of the Wreck to help me
target specific models for research.
I've just finished reworking my shop to make room for my new toys (mini
lathe, scroll saw, baby bandsaw, half-assed shop vac DC). Once I get a new
(or used), better quality table saw, my little wood shop won't lack for
much of anything machinery wise.
I'm thinking of getting it at tax refund time, and I'm thinking it's a good
idea to start doing my homework now, so I know how much to budget. My
absolute ceiling is $1,000. SWMBO thinks I'm going to get it for $500...
You can see where I'm going with that. No more than a grand complete, and
as close to $500 as I can get without buying something that won't last me
10 years.
I'll be looking at (hopefully) contractor's saws that can run on 110V. I
can't do 220V yet. I need to solve a lot of problems first, and I'm
impatient. I want the saw in 2004, and I'll redo the electric in 2005,
after which I'll be able to run it on 220V.
So...
The maximum space I can allocate is 48" W x 36" D. Does that sound like
your contractor's saw? I don't have a clear idea in my head how big they
get. If they're bigger than that, I may have to go with a better benchtop
or a BT3100.
Something on the ligher side would be helpful. I will have to pull it out
from the wall frequently, occasionally turn it 90 degrees, and rarely take
it all the way out into the yard. Something I can scoot 3-4' by myself
without blowing out my back would be good. If I have to put a mobile base
on it, that needs to factor into the maximum $1,000 price ceiling. It's OK
if I have to go get a neighbor to help me carry it out.
If it has wings, that's no bad thing so long as I can set it up without
them. I'll have a larger shop some day, and I expect this saw I'm buying
to be the one I put into it. Something I can run as small as possible now
and make wider later would be good.
Form factor is the #1 consideration, operating voltage #2, and #3... I
don't want to suffer with a crappy fence ever again. I want a saw that's
born with a good fence, or else I want to buy a saw with no fence and buy a
good aftermarket one. I haven't been looking at or paying attention to
fences, since nothing will fit my current POS. I could use some nudges in
that area too.
Much obliged, folks. Happy holidays!

How about a General 50-185-M1 Left Tilt Builders Saw.
$649 plus shipping. Runs on 120 and 240ac, nice motor that won't kick
your 120 breaker constantly.
http://www.general.ca/product/inter/50175an.html
I've been looking this one over as well.
Greg G.

Looks like it deserves a place on my list for sure. Since made in USA is
probably impossible, made in Canada is better than made in Chiwan. Price
leaves room to accessorize a bit...
300 pounds though. Hooo boy. I guess they all weigh about that. This
could get intersting. The whole shed, er, shop wobbles when I move my 15"
DP from side to side. I probably need to replace some of the floor, and
shore it up.
Well, I just have to factor that into the equation. The size barely works.
If I absolutely have to, I can probably put my metal-cutting bandsaw in the
den to make more room. The den is mostly wasted space, and metal cutting
isn't dusty, and I don't do it that much anymore. SWMBO wouldn't like
that, but she'd probably like that better than putting up a new building.
And so it begins... :)

Tain't made in Canada, either. The International line is Taiwense, maybe even
Chinese.
Charlie Self
"Man is a reasoning rather than a reasonable animal."
Alexander Hamilton
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

But, but, what about all the little maple leaf flags all over that page?
"This web page made in Canada" ? :)
Dunno. The more I look, the more I doubt I can afford/fit one of these
things anyway. Having looked at real specs, they're all a bit bigger and a
*lot* heavier than I figured.
I feel like I might go through my floor any day now at 200 pounds. Adding
another 300 to that is asking for problems.
I guess it all comes back to the BT3100 I keep trying with all my might to
resist. Aluminum is looking like the way to go.
(Or until I score something used. :)

Actually, it's made in Taiwan. The FENCE is made in Canada. Look at
the strategic placement of the flag... Misleading, eh?
The fence is a beis clone.

I didn't know you were working in an outhouse. <g>
Bulk is generally a *good* thing in a table saw - it has those nice
cast table extensions. Not an aluminum waffle plate that eats your
fingers, pencils, and wood chips, jamming the material you are trying
to put through the saw.

But you could put up a small building yourself - even a lean-to?
And just think of how much you would enjoy it! Insulation, heat,
power, and tools, tools, tools... <g>
Good Luck with whatever you choose.
Greg G.

I have heat now. No insulation. A building is in the cards for someday,
but I have no place to put one except for where the current one is sitting.
I'll have to move all my stuff into the house somewhere, tear that one
down, build a new one... It will mean probably a couple of months with no
workshop. I'm not looking forward to it.

Sadly, after a dose of practicality hit me, I'm thinking I really can't
afford or make room for this, no matter how much I want to.
I guess I will do the only reasonable thing after considering all the
circumstances, which is to get a BT3100 and learn to like the silly sliding
table thing.

[snip]
Silvan, you seem like a dumpster diving more time than money type of
guy. Look around for an old Delta contractors saw. They are pretty
much indestructible from what I've seen. Worse case it needs new
bearings and some TLC which a handy guy can do in a few hours and
with a little imagination. Saws like that go for a hundred bucks now
and then. At an auction a while back one went for $50. Forty more
for new bearings all around and then a decent fence and you are set
for a few years. I believe it will meet all your requirements. Of
course if you really need it now or have your heart set on something
new and scratch free then disregard.
My 2 cents worth.
Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays for you and the family.
--
John, in Minnesota

Translation: Silvan, you seem poor and/or broke.
I resemble that remark. :) I sure could use the money elsewhere, that's
for sure.

How big are they, roughly? My 48" x 36" is really an optimistic maximum.
If they're a tad smaller than that, that would be good.
I'll keep my eye out for a fixer upper. Maybe start reading the Trading
Post. Too bad I don't have any guns, or I could probably get a saw for
free.
"1969 Hemicuda. MS MT A/C runs good. Rusty. $10,000 or will trade for
guns."

Well, in the criteria you described, you just have to include the barebones
version of the Jet Supersaw. It will barely fit into all your criteria.
That's because its a heck of a lot more saw than a contractor's saw. Oh,
when I say barely, were you counting the Rip Fence handle in your maximum
dimensions? Its 4" long and causes the depth of the saw to go to about 38
inches.
I'm not claiming this saw is small cabinet saw, but its a smooth operator.
It passes the so-called nickel test for smoothness. Yes, its heavy with two
solid cast iron wings. But its very moveable using a mobile base. I have
the fully kitted saw with sliding table and 52" fence/extension table on a
mobile base. I can move it by myself without any unusual strain, even
though it weighs over 350 pounds. However, I liken it more to docking a
battle ship, than parking a VW bug, since its long.
If you want to cut wood smoothly and precisely, this saw must be considered
in your choices.
Also, please buy from a local dealer, if you have that option. You'll get
knowledgeable double support - from Jet factory as well as the local dealer,
something you can forget if you buy from Lowe's or Home depot. I must admit
I am spoiled by having an exceptional dealer in my area. Buying from them
was part of the influence in my purchase choice.
Bob

I'm not saying that you shouldn't consider the SuperSaw, along with
any others that may fill your needs. But that particular Jet saw,
with it's pretty hefty price tag, has a couple of shortcomings you
should be aware of. The mechanism is a from a contractors saw, not a
table saw and the dust port is so-so. But the biggest objection I
have are the belts which move the arbor break fairly often, and Jet
(was) not getting them out very fast. There is no generic replacement
I am aware of.
FWIW,
Greg G.

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