Recommended Posts

A work colleague asked me to have a look at his Ebel 1911 Discovery (ETA 7750). The hour counting hand was floating around in the case. Loupe inspection showed that the post was broken off in the hand - so before starting I ordered a replacement hour counting wheel. When I opened the case I found the dial was not attached - it was sliding around under the hands. Removal showed that both dial feet were broken off. Time to break out my dial foot soldering machine. Here's a video showing the technique. Enjoy!

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

No marks left on front if done correctly. I probably ruined 5 practice dials experimenting with different solder, flux and technique. Note also that sometimes I use a staking set to support the dial. I use a flat punch that is just the correct size to hold the dial wire perfectly vertical. This is actually the technique I'd recommend. Key is to use the correct solder and to perfect your timing. If you flow the current too long you WILL burn the dial face!

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

I have an old charger that can output 12v or 6v which I believe can cope with quite a high current. I was wondering if it would double as a dial foot soldering machine. Does it need to be A/C rather than D/C?

Also, what is the function of the carbon rod? Could you not just make contact with the wire or would that cause a problem?

I have an old charger that can output 12v or 6v which I believe can cope with quite a high current. I was wondering if it would double as a dial foot soldering machine. Does it need to be A/C rather than D/C?

Also, what is the function of the carbon rod? Could you not just make contact with the wire or would that cause a problem?

You need the carbon rod which serves as the electrode. Carbon is an excellent electrical resistor. It is this resistance that generates the instantaneous, and localized heat required to solder. Without the carbon, you would likely overheat the entire dial and do irreparable damage :(. Carbon rods are cheap and easy to find online. You can file the end down to a pencil tip.

You need the carbon rod which serves as the electrode. Carbon is an excellent electrical resistor. It is this resistance that generates the instantaneous, and localized heat required to solder. Without the carbon, you would likely overheat the entire dial and do irreparable damage :(. Carbon rods are cheap and easy to find online. You can file the end down to a pencil tip.

@sstakoff thanks for the info and the link, I will be giving this a try.

I actually salvaged a carbon rod from an old zinc carbon battery last night so my next step is to obtain some solder paste and conduct some trials.

I will report back.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

Similar Content

I've scoured the usual sources, including the ETA Customer Service site, but I can't seem to find a cross reference for the dial feet locations on an ETA 2783 compared with the 2824 or 2836 movements. Many aftermarket dials are advertised as fitting these latter movements and if I can determine whether the location and diameter of their dial holes match my 2783, then I'm sure to succeed with an aftermarket dial.
The dial feet holes on the 2783 are at (eye-balling) 11 minutes and 41 minutes, and center-to-center diameter of 24.0mm.
Any suggestions for a data source? Anyone have a 2824 or 2836 sitting on their bench and their calipers close at hand and bounce me a reply with a measurement as above?
Thanks as always.

Posts

It shouldn't need much pressure at all to fit it.
If its not going down there must be a reason why.
Has the tube on the hand been damaged or crimped from when you removed it?
Can you fit it with the minute hand removed?

Hi All
I'm a beginner. I've finally competed my Seiko 6119A in a Seiko 5. I now notice that the second hand tube is quite long. It's not sliding down the shaft with moderate pressure. How had should I push? Is there a trick to this?
Thank you

Hello guys,
I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago..
This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off
And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop..
Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!!
thanks

Hi Len
thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards).
Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather.
is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again.
any help would be much appreciated
regards
57253616986__A7C2CEC7-1ACC-483F-933C-D73C742B77C7.MOV