Trentina celebrates his foray into the German-, Austrian- and Swiss-inflected food of Trento, a city in Trentino-Alto-Adige on the northeastern cuff of Italy's boot. Sawyer's wife's family is from the city, making it a labor of love for the couple. He and Amelia even launched a Kickstarter campaign to fund the restaurant.

Strangolapreti isn't in the familiar lexicon of red-sauce Italian fare, but it does hit all the happy, comforting notes we like: bread, good cheese, butter.

Picture this: a layer of ground-up, day-old bread, spinach, ricotta and Parm wrapped around soft robiola cheese. After blanching and pan searing, the round dumplings are drizzled with a touch of vinegar and brown butter infused with sage. One bite, and the cheese runs out onto the plate.

"The dish goes back to an old proverb," Sawyer says. "'Yesterday's waste is today's treasure.'"

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