Trekking Nepal's Upper Mustang, a Pristine Corner of the Himalayas

Adventurers have trekked Nepal’s Annapurna circuit and Chitwan National Park for decades, but on a recent visit, my husband and I wanted to truly push our limits. So we set out for Upper Mustang, where rivers swirl around mighty peaks and life in chalk-white villages moves slowly. The region, defined as much by its 13,000-foot passes, striated rock formations, and colorful stupas as by its almost unfathomable remoteness, was, until 2011, accessible only by foot, horseback, or private aircraft. Seven years ago, the first gravel track opened between two regional hubs, Jomsom and Lo Manthang. (The former is now reachable on scheduled turboprop flights.) Still, any crush of tourists has been tempered by a forward-thinking permit system that demands a $500 fee of every visitor. Sounds steep, but at a time when Bhutan is rapidly adding luxury lodges and Tibet can feel overrun, it’s one way to keep this contemplative corner of the Himalayas pristine.

Left: Buddhist prayer wheels. Center: A couple in front of their son’s coffee bar in Lo Manthang. Right: A pot of Tibetan yak-butter tea in Ghemi.

David De Vleeschauwer

Making the Most of the Mountains

Leave the logistics to pros: London-based Ampersand Travel recommends September through December for the best weather; February to May is also pleasant.

Expect a bumpy ride: From Kathmandu, it’s 30 minutes to Pokhara, then 20 to Jomsom, but planes are often grounded by weather; the same goes for charter helicopters that fly direct to Jomsom from the capital. Plan B is a rugged eight-hour drive in a four-by-four.

Plan for bare-bones hotels: In the village of Ghemi, we stayed with the former king’s nephew and niece at their new Royal Mustang Resort, which has simple en suite bathrooms and solar-heated showers. Other teahouse lodgings are similarly rustic but serviceable. Pack a warm jacket and a sleeping bag: Most places don’t have heat, and temps plunge at night.