There are a handful of restaurants in San Antonio whose ambiance or food transport you from the Alamo City, making you feel that you've left the city for different environs.

Newest on the list? The Frutería-Botanero, thanks to the vibrant setting created by chef Johnny Hernandez, who drew inspiration for his latest restaurant from the fruit stands of Mexico.

The name, Frutería, translates to “green grocer,” and Hernandez has created that fresh vibe at his contemporary eatery that's in the building that houses the Steel House Lofts in Southtown. Botanero refers to the casual evening space where people gather for snacks and cocktails.

From the attractive artwork and specially built cabinet that houses the Frutería's stash of tequilas and mezcals to the tableware and colorful leather chairs and wood-block-topped metal tables, the talented Hernandez knows how to set a stage. His keen eye for design carries through in everything, from the heavyweight paper napkins that appear almost clothike to the attractive black takeout boxes.

But after an enticing setting and equally appealing menu and prices, some things fell short once dishes started to arrive.

To put it simply: Some items need that same sizzle that's a mark of the setting.

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We first noticed it in the aguas frescas. A generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice couldn't awaken the pineapple drink, while the cantaloupe agua fresca was so sweet, the flavor of the fresh fruit was barely apparent. While the selection of tequila and mezcal is impressive, a cocktail expert in our group thought the fresh fruit-infused cocktails were overly sweet.

It also was evident in an albóndigas torta, which layered hard-cooked-egg-stuffed meatballs in sauce with pinto beans, shaved onions and oregano. It begged for flavor, even salt, which wasn't available at the table. Until, that is, we got a bite of fresh oregano leaves still on the stalk, which overpowered the dish.

The seared fish torta with avocado cream, lettuce, tomatoes and escabeche also lacked textural and flavor contrast. The pickled vegetables seemed to have been quickly run through a pickling brine rather than luxuriating in it, which gave a hint to the problem.

We fared better with the Tex-Mex breakfast tostada topped with tomato sauce, scrambled eggs, bacon, avocado and crema. It needed salt, but we enjoyed seeing a dish on a menu that we hadn't previously found locally.

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A Frutería highlight are the fresh fruit juices and licuados (smoothies). A blend of mango, cantaloupe, pineapple and orange juice called the Rico Suave was refreshingly delicious and perfectly blended. Fresh-squeezed orange juice showed just how good juiced fruit can taste.

In the evening, the restaurant becomes a hip cocktail lounge/eatery with snacks/tapas, gorditas, chiles rellenos, cazuelitas and more. We much preferred the dinner fare over lunch, particularly a pork-roasted tomatillo-chile cazuelita topped with thin rings of fried onion. It was beautifully presented and packed with flavor. A crab salad-stuffed, pan-fried chile relleno, one of Hernandez's favorite dishes on the menu, also worked well.

We loved the flavor and texture of the fat fresh corn cakes that accompanied the fresh cheese in a guajillo sauce.

You'll want to save room for dessert. The bread pudding was a favorite of our lunch group as was a creamy passion fruit custard.

Right now, Hernandez is moving between his local restaurants while working on a Frutería at the Houston airport and a second location of his La Gloria at the San Antonio International Airport.

We know just how good his food can be; hopefully when he's here to focus efforts on his latest restaurant, the necessary fine-tuning of menu items will occur.