I had the pleasure of spending a half hour or so chatting with Merlin Schwertner from Nomos about the newest additions to the brand stable, asking him about the company and the step up that they're making with the Lambda and Lux. He also showed me a few other models from the Tangomat, Orion and the Zurich world timer range.

Lambda and Lux side by side

Starting with the new high end models, the Lux and Lambda, these are both available in rose and white 18ct gold. The Lambda weights in at 42mm diameter and 8.9mm thick, the Lux 40.5mm and 8.9mm. Merlin was keen to point out the wonderful rear of the watch which, "showcases all the hallmarks of Glashutte: the three quarter plate, the special sunbeam striping, the screwed balance wheel. We also have on the balance the engraving, 'produced with love in Glashutte' (in German, obviously) which is very difficult to create by hand - one mistake and we have to start again!".

You'll notice a number of features on the movement from the shot above; the picture quality isn't the greatest, but there are hand chamfered plates, gold chatons to the most critical wear areas, the hand engraved balance cock as mentioned above, black polishing too, all nods to the highest levels of watchmaking.

Moving on to the Lux, again this features the same movement finishing as the Lambda, but with a movement specifically created for the case shape. "Usually you have round movements in this case shape - here, it's the other way round. Round dial with 'square' movement", says Merlin...

...and it is a very handsome watch. It's extremely wearable, very understated and for me, a stunning dress watch. What with the simplicity of the dial, a hallmark of Nomos, one could never mistake this watch for any other. They are not limited edition, but limited by production which is around one or two a week. The first 100 Lambda are numbered, as are the first 50 Lux. The straps are genuine Horween, with a degree of padding for comfort, and with a turned over finish so there are no open sides.

Although renowned for good quality watches at an affordable price point, the Lambda and Lux feature finishing of the highest standard, a massive step up in overall quality compared to the rest of the range, and the cleanest of clean design which will appeal to those who adore Bauhaus style. Now, we're talking Calatrava price levels with these two pieces.

A bold move for such a small brand, perhaps, but they're expanding - from an original three employees they're now at 160 - and a halo product is in many ways both inevitable and extremely important to sustain this growth. "Nomos is getting serious", says Merlin, "we have big plans and they grow as Nomos grows. Many of our customers bought, say, a Tangente as reward for their first job from college or first big contract, and with these watches we want to cater for those who want to stay with the brand as they move up the ladder". Consider that both models are only offered in precious metals, feature world class movement, dial and cash finishing, one can begin to see how Nomos justify this leap toward the upper end of the what is a very, very competitive market.

Nomos themselves began 23 years ago, and initially produced just four models and in that time have released only four additional models, so they are a "slow burn" company - I try to press Merlin on whether a chronograph model is on the drawing board, only to be met with, "probably". He explains, "we're very slow on releasing new models because we don't want to go too broad, we want to remain focused - we don't want to dilute our brand. You see a Nomos and you instantly recognise it".

The Ahoi Datem

We move away from the top and take a look at the rest of the range. I tell Merlin I'm a dive watch fan, and he immediately produces the Ahoi Datem, Nomos's take on the sport watch. With the same ultra clean Nomos design, 200 meter water resistance and protected screw down crown, it's a refreshing change to the recent crop of German cased behemoths that currently saturate the market...

...this piece features a waterproof fabric strap and a leather strap is also offered, and of course like all other Nomos watches it is produced in house. The name was chosen because of its nautical connection - in case you weren't aware it's the greeting used by seamen (and 'hello' in Czech) - quite fitting for a watch destined for use in wet conditions.

Assorted models from the Tangente, Orion and Tangomat ranges

Orion with blue gold dial - a favourite of mine from the show

Next up we take a look at the Zurich World Time model...

The Zurich World Time (Weltzeit) was first released as a test model in 2008. Merlin tells me that this is something Nomos do regularly with many of their prospective new watches - putting out prototypes to the market in order to test the robustness and quality of the design before signing off the finished product - and what you see above is the final result from that initial offering. It features 24 cities across the globe on a recessed ring, and a twenty four hour disc at three o'clock. The mechanism is operated via the button at two o'clock. It is simplicity itself; each click advances the button by one hour.

The last watch we discuss is the Tangomat GMT which I instantly fall in love with. Again, it features Nomos' no-nonsense styling, a useful complication and in house construction. As an added boon, it is perfectly sized at 40mm...

...and at approx. 11mm thick, slides easily under a cuff. This model features the same movement as that found in the Weltzeit, "but hidden" according to Merlin. As above the mechanism is push button operated, again by that located at two o'clock only in this iteration it is square as opposed to round.

I mention that had I had the funds available there and then I'd be putting a deposit down on one. "You'd have to wait a couple of months until your watch would be delivered", comes the retort, "this is the negative thing about being a manufacture; you cannot just press a button and have produce ready to sell". I'm sure fans of the brand wouldn't have it any other way.

Thanks for reading.

"...I think as soon as you turn your back on reason, you turn your back on what makes us Human..." Iain Banks

I love both the Lambda and Lux. Would love to see these in stainless but seems Nomos wants to make a statement with
these more upscale pieces. I also hope they slow down the trend toward larger watches. Would really like these models in under 40mm versions. With narrow bezels, these watches tend to wear big. No doubt Nomos is knocking on the Lange/GO door.