Hope Earwarmer

November 14, 2018

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When the weather starts to get cold here in Michigan, one of my favorite accessories to help beat the chill is an earwarmer. I love that I can still wear my hair piled up all messy on the top of my head — or, if it’s a good hair day, down and wavy — because a cozy earwarmer will look great either way.

This earwarmer is easy and quick. Don’t let the #3 DK weight yarn fool you; it will work up fast, and still feel light on your head. The seam is conveniently hidden underneath the button, and although I am totally ok with a necessary seam, I always get excited when I find a good hiding place for it!

Visual Learner?

You can follow along with me with this tutorial video, regardless of what size you are making! I put the pattern instructions right on screen so you can relax and go at your own pace. Be sure to subscribe, too!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF, which includes sizes toddler – adult! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)

You’ll also need: 7/8″ button, and a yarn needle that can fit through it

Terms and Abbreviations:ST/STS (stitch/stitches)SL ST (slip stitch)SK (skip)CH (chain)SC (single crochet)HDC (half double crochet)SC+HDC (complete a full single crochet and a full half double crochet in the same stitch)3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)

Special Stitch:

3rd Loop OnlyHalf double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) To resize earwarmer, your starting chain can be any odd number.
(4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen, adult]. So, for example, if it says “CH71 [75, 85, 89]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen, and adult instructions, respectively. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.
(5) Knowing where to place your first stitch can be tricky when working in joined rounds. Usually, it doesn’t matter as long as you’re consistent, but for this pattern, it does matter… especially from Round 4 on! So, here is an image to help you identify where to put your first stitch. Because Round 4 instructs you to skip the first stitch, you will put your SC+HDC combo in the stitch marked as the 2nd stitch (which is also easy to find thanks to the spaces created by the SC+HDC combos from Round 3).

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: CH71 [75, 85, 89].

Round 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Bring ends together, without twisting, and join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])

Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])

Rounds 3-14 [3-16, 3-18, 3-18]: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])

Round 15 [17, 19, 19]: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])

Round 16 [18, 20, 20]: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for cinching. Use yarn needle and starting tail to sew the small gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave in that tail only.

Cinching

1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

2. Holding on to the fold with one hand, use your other hand to pinch the upper half in half again. The top edge of the earwarmer should be facing down. Grasp the fold together with the first fold, then repeat with the bottom section. When you’re finished, you should be pinching three folds together, with both the top and bottom edges of the earwarmer facing down.

3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under just a couple strands of each fold.

4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then thread the needle up through the 1st hole of the button and back down through the 2nd hole, position it on the cinch, and wrap yarn around to the underside to tie off. (If your button has four holes, complete the first two, wrap yarn around the bottom, then come back and complete the last two before tying off.) Weave in the tail.

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #hopeearwarmer and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!

Thanks Cheryl! My sizes are based on the Yarn Council of America’s standard measurement system. Everyone is different, though, so it’s always a good idea to measure your own head for the best possible fit.

Hi Laura! I would just switch colors at the seam when you turn and begin a new round. You could do it several times for stripes, or just once for a half-and-half look. I also have a Malia Earwarmer pattern 🙂

Hi Sue! You definitely don’t want to download any PDF converters, and any time you see those, they are an ad. (The more you click them, the more you’ll see them.) My patterns are free on my blog, and ad-free PDFs are a small fee which you can buy from my shop. The listing for each ad-free PDF is on its pattern blog post.

Hi Alanna! Adapting a pattern for a different yarn weight isn’t necessarily an easy thing for a newbie,, but if you’re feeling confident, you could do your starting chain to whatever length you need, making sure it’s an odd number, then follow the pattern with smaller stitch counts and fewer rows.

HI! I’ve decided to attempt in the correct weight yarn given in the pattern, but I’ve gotten confused about the stitch count? Why does the stitch count go down by one between rows one and two? I have the same number of hdc as chains made originally?

I did the gauge swatch an shad to go down to a 4.5mm hook. But, my 89 chain measures 20 inches not 21. My height on swatch had to be increased to 13 rows.
What should I do, go back to H hook or add more chains to foundation row?

Measuring just the chain can be a very iffy way to measure, because chains can stretch quite a bit after you’ve worked rows into them. Is it 20″ when stretched taut? If so, you might add more chains or go to an H hook, but otherwise, I would stick with what the gauge check told you.

I have been a passport member for a while now and every time I try to get a pattern, it keeps saying I have to pay for it! I also have a terrible time logging in. I need help! I want the new hope ear warmer pattern please! Thanks, Kathleen

Hi Kathleen! You don’t get your patterns by adding them to your cart; you sign in, then click “Passholder Area” in the top menu. If it comes up with a “content restricted” message, refresh the screen as instructed on that page. That will get you in to the exclusive area where all of my ad-free patterns are. As for having a terrible time signing in, have you forgotten your password? You can always do a password change. Please email me at rebecca@yarnandchai.com if you need more assistance!

Hi, I purchased the ad-free version earlier today so that I could help out your charity. However, as of yet, I do not have the link to the pattern. When I click on the hot link to the pattern in my receipt email, I am brought to the page to purchase it again. Can you help me out?
Thanks!

I wish I could do videos for all of my patterns, but life just doesn’t allow for it right now. Make sure you’re using a #3 DK weight yarn, and do a gauge check! If you are crocheting to gauge, you should end up right at 21″ for 88 stitches.

Even though I’m a Passholder, I can’t access the patterns for anything without all the ads. I’ve logged in several times – it’s not working! Help!! Thanks so much, I love your patterns and make them all the time!! Maureen

Hi Maureen! Passholders have a special page where they can access their PDFs. You just need to sign in, then click “Passholder Area” in the top menu. If it says “content restricted”, just refresh the screen as instructed on that page.