Gen 3 CR250 front chain guard, who makes them?

By seanmx57, Posted April 30, 2015

I need a Gaurd that protects the cases when the chain snaps. I'd like aftermarket. What are you guys having luck with? What are the options?

Thanks

By KPRacing, Posted April 30, 2015

I had a T.M. designs chain gaurd on a yamaha 450. It fit like a glove up to the case & ignition cover & it is made of a type of plastic to further help with impact protection.

I still feel there should be another item (m as ybe there is) that mounts ABOVE the sprocket. The last bit of chain is like a tail whipping through that area. Look at a late model ktm sx50. They have a guard eith the design I am speaking of. Of ourselves it won't fit but you will get the idea of what I am describing & what to look for if someone makes such a piece.

By rippah, Posted April 30, 2015

I have a moose one on mine but haven't put it on yet because I'm still rebuilding my machine

By magpie5, Posted May 2, 2015

How often do you snap your chain?

By Excitable, Posted May 2, 2015

How often do you snap your chain?

you never really know when and if it will, better to have the protection there.

By seanmx57, Posted May 4, 2015

How often do you snap your chain?

I don't care to take chances like that, it happens.

By WeekendRDR, Posted May 4, 2015

By wykyd450r, Posted May 4, 2015

As KPR said, the ones that fit snug against the case would be best......if you can find one. I never found anything for my 02 when I searched. For my trx450r, I always had one from moose racing, made of polymer. It even had a hole that the shift shaft went through to protect it. The polymer and being form fitted against the case would absorb impact greater than the fancy billet ones that mount to the 2 tabs. They wont absorb anything, only transfer the hit to the 2 tabs, breaking them. I get some type of white plastic ( like delrin ) about 1/2 inch thick from work, and cut one. Sure, it mounts like the billet ones, but has to absorb more than aluminum.

Hey guys, so cant find much online about cr 250r enduro conversions (nothing recent) so im wondering if it is an option or not. I currently have a crf 250x 2009 and a XR 650r. If i want a 2 stroke enduro but want to stick with the honda line up, is a 2007 or 2005 honda cr 250r a good option. and if so what would need to be done to it to get it up to spec for trail and enduro riding. Thanks very much

Note: This specifically applies to the '92 - '01 CR250 engine, but it should be adaptable to any 2-stroke. The basic idea is to pull the carb and exhaust, plug one and pressurize the engine through the other to look for leaks.
It's very important to pressure test a 2-stroke after it's assembled. The reason is that a 2-stroke gets it's lube through the pre-mix. An air leak means your engine can run lean. Lean means too little fuel. Too little fuel means too little lube. Too little lube means death to your engine. So here we go.
First, you need to pull the seat, tank, shock, carb and pipe. Everything you need (other than a tire pump) is shown below.

The assembly below is basically a 1-3/4" PVC plug (same OD as the intake pipe ID) that is transitioned down to a 0-15 psi gauge, a shut-off valve and a Schrader valve (to connect a tire pump). The 1-3/4" PVC plug is a tight fit in the intake pipe, but it'll fit with enough persuasion. I used yellow heavy duty pipe tape (made for gas systems) to put everything together. I don't have all the technical names for everything, but if you take the pictures to a hardware store, they should be able to help you piece it together.

The item below is an adjustable rubber freeze plug. They are available at automotive parts stores in various sizes, but the closest one I could make work was a 1-3/4" version. You tighten the nut which squeezes two metal plates together which squeezes and expands the rubber piece between the plates. You have to tighten it a lot, but it makes a good seal in the exhaust port.

Before you install everything, make sure that the piston is at BDC (so that all the ports are open), the spark plug is installed and all other components are properly tightened. Below, you can see the gauge/valve assembly installed in the intake pipe. Make sure to tighten your intake pipe hose clamp tightly as the pressure will tend to push the assembly out.

Below, you can see the freeze plug installed in the exhaust port.

Once you have everything installed as shown, use a tire pump to pressurize the engine to 6 - 8 psi, then close the valve and watch the gauge for any pressure drop over a 5 - 10 minute period. A well sealed engine will hold pressure with no observable pressure drop for 10 minutes easily.
One common "leak" in a healthy '92 - '01 CR250 engine (and probably other types) is through the powervalve linkage. It probably doesn't affect performance, but it'll sure throw your leak measurements off. To avoid leaks, make sure the powervalve linkage is correctly lubed (per the Service Manual) with grease and Moly 60 Paste during assembly.
If your engine holds pressure with no observable drop for 10 minutes, you're good to go. If the pressure drops 2 - 3 psi or more over 10 minutes, spray soapy water all around the pressure test parts first to check for leaks there. If you find none on the test setup, start spraying the soapy water around the base gasket, head gasket, center gasket etc. Any pressure drop of less than 2 psi over 10 minutes is your call, but I'd definitely fix it.
I've had really good results by using Permatex Copper Gasket Sealant on the base gasket, PV cover gasket and reed cage gasket. I don't use anything on the head gasket.

What value would you say a 1986 cr250 with a freshly plated cylinder and new top end, newer tires, newer chain & sprockets, in overall very good condition?
I picked up the bike (cheap) a month or so ago in need of cylinder replating & top end. Apparently the headgasket blew internally scouring the cylinder. The crank feels good and the bike is very clean/good condition.
I havent put the bike together yet (too busy to ship cylinder and order parts), but figure I would have a total of $600 (including bike cost) to get it into good running cond.
A friend wants to buy it as-is for his 15 yr old 200# kid. What value wouldyou put on it in As-is condition vs with a fresh engine?