Humpback Whales: Park It Right Here, Part 1

In penny-pinching times, it’s good to know one of Hawaii’s top winter pleasures — humpback whale-watching — can be done for free. And some of the best places to see the whales are in state parks, which in addition to free admission offer scenic views that more than compensate if the cetaceans don’t show. (They’re certainly safer than swerving off to the side of the road, no matter how tempting, to enjoy a breaching whale.)

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has come up with a list of the best parks for whale peeping, recently released by the Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau. The sites vary widely in accessibility and amenities, so Hawaii Insider has made an annotated version; you can also click on a park’s name for directions and hours. Today we’ll look at Kauai and the Big Island parks that NOAA recommends; tomorrow, those on Oahu and Maui.(Note: As usual I’ll write the place names without diacritical marks, per AP style, but will include the Hawaiian spellings italicized in parentheses, since they do aid in pronunciation.)

Kauai:

Ahukini State Recreation Pier. Back when sugar was king on Kauai, this concrete pier overlooking the mouth of Hanamaulu Stream is where the sweet stuff was sent on its way to the mainland. Now Nawiliwili Harbor handles cruise and container ships, and what remains of the pier, at the end of the airport road in Lihue, is popular with pole fishers and crabbers. It gives you a nice view of Hanamaulu Bay, but you’ll need to go back to the airport for any facilities. (Hawaiian names: Kaua‘i, Hanama‘ulu, Nāwiliwili, Līhu‘e.)

Haena State Park. Another end of the road setting, this time on the island’s verdant North Shore, beautiful Haena offers wet and dry caves to explore and sunsets to savor when winter conditions prevent safe snorkeling (at Kee Beach) or swimming and surfing (at Haena Beach Park). The park offers camping, restrooms, outdoor showers, drinking water and parking — but get there early, because you’re competing with hikers on the Kalalau Trail as well as beachgoers for spaces. (Hawaiian: Hā‘ena, Kē‘ē.)

Na Pali Coast State Wilderness Park. As the name suggests, this is the wild stretch of famed Na Pali (“the cliffs”), reached in winter via the rugged Kalalau Trail or by commercial boats. You’ll need permits to hike past Hanakapi’ai Valley, around two miles in, although just a mile into the trail you’ll have spectacular ocean vistas. Better to do this in the summer season, though, and save the whale-watching for easier terrain. (Hawaiian: Nā Pali, Hanakāpi‘ai.)

Waimea State Recreation Pier. On the island’s western side, this long pier stretches into the muddy waters not far from where the Waimea River empties into the ocean. You’re not going to want to go a for a dip there, but you can pick up picnic supplies or takeout fare in Waimea town, a few blocks away, and make use of the tables (and restrooms) at the small but pleasant park. (Personally, I recommend poke and bento boxes from Ishihara Market, garlic shrimp from the Shrimp Station and/or Jo-Jo’s shave ice, all on the highway through town.)

Hawaii (Big Island)

Hapuna State Recreation Area.. One of those perennial “top beaches,” this Kohala Coast gem in the Mauna Kea resort has parking (fills up fast on weekends), picnic facilities and restrooms — plus camping (in A-frame cabins), bodysurfing and swimming when conditions are safe (generally in summer; for the Hawaii Lifeguards Association tips, click here.) The Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel sits above the beach, in case the snack bar isn’t open, while the newly reopened Mauna Kea Beach Hotel is also worth a stroll to check out. More active hikers can set tackle a portion of the 15-mile Ala Kahakai Trail loop. (Hawaiian: Hawai‘i, Hāpuna.)

Kekaha Kai State Park. It’s a 1.5-mile bumpy drive over an unpaved road through lava fields to get to this hot and dry park a couple miles from the airport, but the white sand beach and ultra-clear waters make it worth it, regardless of whether the whales show up. Bring your hiking shoes (and lots of fluids, since there’s no drinking water) for the 4.5-mile hike over another leg of the Ala Kahakai Trail to Kua Bay.

Old Kona Airport Park. The county actually took over control of this former state park last year, but it hasn’t lost its attractions: lots of parking on the old runway (unused since 1970), a jogging path, a sandy inlet for swimming (on a predominately lava-rock coast), picnic tables, restrooms, showers, picnic tables, pavilions, drinking water — and very few people. Whether or not you see any whales, the erstwhile airport is an easy one-mile drive north of Kailua-Kona, if you feel the need to stretch your wings.