Problem has now occurred when applying the top section of the hull with paint. I found after removing the masking tape, the styrene section of the armoured plating; the primer is not bonding to it. Every time I tried to patch, the pulled off section more comes away only larger areas each time. To me it looks like the styrene section is at fault. The whole hull was primed with the same primer and no problems with any other area other than the styrene sections. It is affecting all three paint areas above and below the water line. I am using a low tack masking tape, but for some reason the primer will not bond to it.

Can any one point me in the correct direction as to what I have done wrong.

Paul: My observation is that the primer is not appropriate for use with styrene. I would strip the styrene areas and apply a primer that is designed for use on styrene. Oddly the black stripe does not appear to be as affected as the red and grey areas but I assume the masking tape was not applied over the black paint.

Model paint for plastic models normally works well on styrene. It normally does not require a primer, however, it might serve as a primer if a colour match cannot be achieved with the rest of the hull areas.

Have done the first side and all went well. Got hold of some yellow coloured frog tape, and used the other (Green) to pull off the old paint. Cleaned the who sheet, rub down with 600 wet and dry and then cleaned off with Meth. Now working on the other side and should be finished off on Friday. If so will then post new photo with her in her full coat of paint ready for the satin lacquer to be applied. This should help keep the paint safe from scratches.

All repair work completed and she has been kitted out with some of the detail which will be fully installed later. I now have to kit out all the minor decks and install them in position. once done the main flight deck and hangar deck will be worked on to install.

Made a little more work on the hull and painted all the decks dark green. Also made up the port side forward deck and installed all the railing. Just need to install the lighting when I have finished off the running gear setup.

Thanks guys glad you like the build it is becoming a labour of love now.

Starboard forward upper and lower decks now completed with all the work required to encase the decks ready for lighting. Much the same as Port side, with one exception. There is a small cabin to the rear of the lower starboard deck. Was planing to put that in, but found that I could not install and seal the deck with it in place due to lack of space. So left it out and do not think anyone will notice, just me.

I was wondering how to fit the four large search lights so they could rotate by hand and found the centre of each light base had a recess into which I cut down a 11 mm wood pole and then sanded down till level with the base of the light. Will bond the wood section to the deck and then place the searchlight onto it. This will hold it in place and allow for it to be rotated and removed when taking to the lake and shows.

I did the same with the 6 pom pom guns which I am painting at the moment. Each of them has a circle at the base. Measure the circumference and then using a compass marked out the circle and then cut with a fretsaw from 3 mm thick marine ply and then using my dremel made 6 perfectly circular mounts to which I can bond to the decks and Island and again they can been seen to rotate and remove for transporting.

Excellent detail Paul , your hands are smaller than mine , but your patience greater
The sponsons on my model were all watertight knowing my own weaknesses at the lakeside and the lack of respect by others on the water
I wish I had made my model with more removable items ( for instance the life rafts fitted around the periphery of the flight deck as I am forever re glueing them back on
SADLY my efforts like Jim's lay gathering dust as the arthritis in the spine gathers pace and transporting , assembling , and the return is both painful and very time consuming (the down side of a split hull configuration) hence the concentration on tugs and loss of revenue to our mate in the fens

Power to your elbow Paul and I'm sure dear old Sandy would agree bless him

Re attaching the searchlights. On my Gay Class MGB. I used 'press studs' to mount the guns. They allow them to rotate and you just slip a screwdriver between them to detach, ideal for changing to MTB'.
Might not be applicable in this case, but handy to keep in mind. Available from ' haberdashery' shop/department, or wife's sewing stash. (Ask first!)
Jim

__________________
Jim
"No one is perfect, however being Scottish is near enough"!

Re attaching the searchlights. On my Gay Class MGB. I used 'press studs' to mount the guns. They allow them to rotate and you just slip a screwdriver between them to detach, ideal for changing to MTB'.
Might not be applicable in this case, but handy to keep in mind. Available from ' haberdashery' shop/department, or wife's sewing stash. (Ask first!)
Jim

Yes.... quite so Jim ....and also excellent for hand wheels on valves [ subject to scale size ] and a permanent part of my slop chest stores of " that looks like it might be useful " stock

Thanks for the welcome home Dave ... just about sobered up now

Once you log the "mind set" it is amazing the amount of "Rubbish" that can be "Used" during a model build .......as our dear recently passed friend knew only to well bless him .. ,... but me thinks I might be teaching you to be sucking eggs Paul ...so sorry for that ......

The down side of this is you acquire a lot of gash kit

And for the uninitiated they are small round metal fasteners used in our youth by parents to fasten detail on clothing that were fashioned for us [ along with "Teddy Tail " cotton fabric used to make shirts in my formative years bought in Hammersmith market [circa 1950] ...... and for this reason ...........I grew up fast

The last of the side decks completed and ready to be installed into the hull. That leaves me the quarter deck and the chain deck to do. Pom pom's are all painted and ready to be mounted on the finished model.

Is there anyone out there ever build a working lift inside an Aircraft Carrier. I have positioned the lift so only one support stringer need to be cut to allow the lift to move through the frames. This required the moving of the entry a few mm to allow this. I first thought that I would run up four post with the curvature of the lift on the inside on each post and bond them to the under side of the flight deck, thus allowing the lift to move up and down with the four post frame. (supports will be made at the base to keep it straight and firm) I have made the supports to support the hanger deck so the lift come down level with the deck of the hanger.

I will leave a firm area around the lift and the flight deck section will be cut out and allow me to have two sections to fit in. One being made of clear perspex to allow the viewing of the flight deck and the aircraft inside the hanger when on display (Radio Joe's idea. Thanks Joe). The second with be the normal deck for when she is on the water and sailing.

My dilemma is how do I make the lift work what type of frame would allow the unit to move up and down with a plane on board. Stuck here, I have read through the sheets of build ideas but have not found anything that I could work with.

So is there anyone with ideas that I could play with to see what works best.