Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

A plea for "old-school"
aquarists 1/7/06 Hello Crew, <Hello Dana> Let me
begin by saying that I have no questions. Just a big
"thank you" for the service you provide. Because
of your advice and information learned from your site, and
books like "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist",
"Natural Reef Aquariums" and "The New Marine
Aquarium",<Thank you> I decided it was time for a change. I
would like to briefly relate my experience going from an
"old-school" fish keeper to someone who has
embraced the "natural" approach. After reading
this, if even one old-schooler decides to give it a try, than I
shall be very happy. What do I mean by "old-school"?
Marine fish, coral skeletons (bleached monthly), crushed
coral, wet/dry filters, and canister filters that never
seemed to get cleaned as often as they should have.
Chemicals to combat red slime algae. Oh yes, and those
massive 25% - 30% monthly water changes to try and keep the
nitrates and phosphates at bay. When setting up my dream
240, I attempted to mix old-school with some natural
technologies by adding a refugium to the mix, with limited
success. And so, with the blessing of my very patient wife
(I'm a lucky guy), a well thought out plan (thanks to
Bob for his advice and approval of said plan), I did it. I
replaced the crushed coral with live sand. I purchased 200
lbs of Tonga live rock, partially cured, and finished the
curing process myself. I re- plumbed the aquarium to increase water
circulation. I doubled the lighting. When the rock was
cured, I added it to the tank. 2 weeks later, I removed
half the bio-balls from the wet/dry. Another 2 weeks later,
out came the rest of the bio-balls. I also got rid of the
canister filter and modified the wet/dry to accept a 100
micron filter sock. All this with a fully stocked fish
load. The results? My ammonia and nitrites never budged after removing
the bio-balls. Red slime algae is no longer a problem. And
just 2 months after adding the live rock, my nitrates and
phosphates, which have always been high, are at or near
zero. PH has been rock solid at 8.4. And the tank looks
fantastic. I was able to get lots of large interesting
pieces and found it very easy to create a natural rock
scape. And the best benefit of all - my fish love it! They have
NEVER looked better. Every single fish is displaying
brighter colors and perfect health. There is less
aggression, as there are more places to hide and retreat.
The moment I placed the live rock in the aquarium, I swear
it was like my fish had been returned to the ocean. They
had to explore every nook and cranny, looking for food
I'm sure! My 10 year old French Angel is like a new
fish, with more energy and vigor. My pair of Golden
Butterflies, who had phases of intense aggression, have
been perfect tank mates. And my juvenile Emperor is
changing over to his adult pattern at a rate that is
amazing. Oh yes, and my refugium has simply
taken off. My Chaetomorpha has tripled in 2 months after
barely growing at all in 9 months. The negatives? Only two. The live
rock was expensive, but in the long- term I believe it will actually
save me money. And I am spending too much time watching my
fish. As a matter of fact, I am planning my first
mini-reef. But first my wife has requested that I convert
her 75 marine fish-only over to live rock and natural
filtration. Yep! Did I mention I'm a lucky guy? So come
on all you old-school fish keepers. I know there are still
a few of you out there. All I can say is "go for
it". You, and your fish, will be glad you did.
<Dana, I started this hobby when marine fish first became available
in my area so I'm one of the old schoolers as yourself that changed
quite sometime ago. I think the only thing older than me is
dirt. Thank you for sharing your successful experience with
us. James (Salty Dog)> Dana M.

Proposed reef set-up,
stocking 8/28/05 WWM Crew, <Erik> I love your
website! A good friend recently convinced me to shed my fear
of "high maintenance" saltwater aquariums and I've since
kept myself busy (read: obsessed) over the past two months doing my
research. The more I learn, the more I find I need to learn! <Ah,
good> I've read many of the FAQ's and articles on WWM (in
addition to other web, book, and periodical resources) and would like
to share my planned setup with you and solicit your comments and
suggestions. I am still about 2-3 months for purchasing
anything, but any feedback you (or the community!) could provide would
be greatly appreciated! <Glad to> [I apologize in advance for
such a long email.] My goal: An attractive display of
interesting guests with a minimum of maintenance, i.e., allows for
occasional 3-4 day trips with no upkeep and 7-14 day trips out with
minimal upkeep by house-sitters. Auto-dosers, top-off systems, etc. to
be researched and incorporated as req'd. <Okay> My current
plan for a 55g FOWLR setup: 80lb live rock 5-in. deep oolitic
"sugar fine" sand, seeded with live sand 20g sump tank 250gph
protein skimmer (with collection cup drain) Tank pump sized for no less
than 450gph to main tank 10g refugium with 40gph flow, 6-in. oolitic
DSB, possibly grow macro algae, but mostly for copepod production for
main tank guests (esp. Mandarin) Tank guests (in order of
introduction): Turban Snails [x10] (sp? Not cone-shaped astrea tecta)
<Many choices> Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) Brittle Star
(NOT the predatory Green Brittle!) Pistol Shrimp (Alpheus randalli)
Randall's Prawn Goby (Amblyeleotris randalli) Percula Clownfish
(Amphiprion ocellaris) [x2] Green Mandarin (Pterosynchiropus
splendidus) Longnose Butterfly (Forcipiger flavissimus or f.
longirostris) <Mmm... this is a bit small volume for a Longnose>
The live rock formations will be solidly set on PVC pipe supports
(raising it above the substrate). These formations will have
multiple levels and lots of hiding places on each level. A
handful or so of large crushed coral fragments will be sprinkled on the
sand surface for the diggers to play with. Lighting details are TBD but
200W of 1/2 "full spectrum" and 1/2 actinic VHO's on
sunrise/sunset timing. Other equip: Two 100W submersible heaters 300gph
of powerhead circulation So, after all that intro, here are my
questions, comments, concerns: Are the Pistol and Brittle Star suitable
tankmates? <Yes, can work> I didn't find anything
in the FAQs that specifically says either way. If not, can
you suggest a replacement for the Brittle Star, or is the above guest
list adequate without the spiky long-armed janitor? <Again, many
choices, and not necessary...> I'd love to have a blenny, such
as a Lawnmower, but I'm concerned about the compatibility with the
Shrimp Goby. What are your thoughts, opinions, and/or
experience? <A small blenny could work out here... the Shrimp are
smart, not pushovers... place it first> There are dissenting
opinions on whether oolitic is acceptable for Pistol Shrimp/Goby pairs
and whether the Shrimp/Goby pairs are detrimental to the nitrate
reduction capability of a DSB. Your thoughts, opinions,
experience? <I like a mix of substrate sizes for such burrowers, but
Alphaeids will adapt, burrow under a bit of the LR. There is minimum
disruption to DSB's, even plenums with adequate screening> There
are also dissenting opinions on the difficulty of pairing separately
acquired shrimp and shrimp gobies. Your thoughts, opinions,
experience? <If the species are known to associate in the wild, they
almost invariably will pair up in captivity over time> Again, your
time and responses are greatly appreciated! FYI, I'm looking to
eventually turn this tank into a species tank (puffers, perhaps?)
<No... too small a volume> and add a 180g reef tank with lots of
inverts and a 30g tall hex tank for displaying
seahorses. But all in due time! Erik Pierce <Ah, yes...
enjoy the journey. Bob Fenner>

Proposed tank setup Hello again Bob! Hope you are well
and still fish crazed! <Yes!> Attached is an image of a
proposed setup I am considering building. Can you give me a reality
check on my basic design? <Sure, neat 3D graphic> The while
posts in the image are supports for live rock and the red block are
live rock. Also here is a link to a movie of the setup. 1. File:
tank1.avi Secure Link: http://www.ibackup.com/qmanager/servlet/share?key=czsf1687
- Just click on the link to open the web page and then the file to
download. Feel free to share if you think it's worthy.
It's 15mb's, so I can't email it. <A big boy!>
You guys got me so interested in thinking 80% and acting 20% that I
have put a lot of time into my design and I wanted to get an
opinion from the experts. <It looks very good indeed>
Thanks again for your consideration. Guy (huge fan of this
site and the people who run it!)
<Bob, the Fish Guy>

Re: Proposed tank setup Hello Bob, <Hey Guy> I realized
that I sent no details as to what this tank is for. I am a graphics guy
by trade and get caught up in the visuals. <I see> Here are the
details to go along with the image: 200 gal Sand zone tank Live rock
with live sand 4 inches for the anaerobic plate <Don't know if
I'm following you here. One inch under the sand is sufficient> 2
surge returns varied in fill rates to vary surge <Do make sure there
is sufficient drainage should both dump at about the same time...>
Euro reef skimmer Micro-bag-50 micron Calcium reactor (have not decided
the type) Flow rate on return pumps to match a X10 rate Giesseman MH
(still looking at what type) Suggestions? <Giesseman make many fine
light fixtures. Yours should match the livestock, ambitions you
have.> Want to keep inverts and soft/hard Corals to match the sand
zone of a reef-Suggestion on good resource for such a system?
<Resource as in printed works? Yes, Eric Borneman, Anthony Calfo and
Sven Fossa & Alf Nilsen's coral works> Thanks again for your
time. Hope to see you in Chicago for the IMAC! <Ahh! We definitely
will... I sojourn about during the shows generally. DennisG is
providing WWM with a booth space to chat with folks, and there's
always the bar... Bob Fenner>

Tank Design question Hello there, <Hello Nicole> Thank
you all for making this resource available to us neophytes.
<You're welcome> Before my questions, let me tell you a
little about what I want to accomplish. My plan, to start, is to keep a
couple pairs of seahorses, along with some compatible inverts and some
polyps and soft corals (maybe a pumping Xenia). I plan to
make my own "dead" rock out of Aragocrete - for ease in
aquascaping - and seed with live rock and cultures of Coralline,
etc. I am aware of the curing time of the Aragocrete and
have no problem with waiting. Originally, I intended to get
two 30 or 40g tanks, plumbed in parallel to a common
sump. One tank would hold the seahorses, the other would
hold phyto, macroalgae, mysids, pods, and a DSB of
4"+. I am planning PC lighting for all. In
the sump, I intend to have a "fuge (divided long ways - is that
even a word?) with a chamber for live rock and a second chamber for
another DSB, macroalgae, pods, etc. Both 'fuge chambers
will be fed by drains from the main tank with (using "Y"s to
keep from putting too much flow through the 'fuge
areas). The sump will also hold a skimmer (probably an
Aqua-C), heaters, and, of course, 2 return pumps (for redundancy - see
I have been reading;-). At some point in the future I would
like to upgrade to full reef, MH, etc. Now to the questions.
1. I have an opportunity to get a 70g tank (brand new) with
stand, canopy, and basic lighting for under $400. Would I be
able to use this for the above plan, adding some kind of solid divider,
maybe with some small holes (too small for inverts to pass) to separate
the seahorse area from the 'fuge area but allow some phyto and/or
'pods to pass? <Sure, they do make tank dividers with small
holes already put in. At least I still think they make
them.> 2. I can have the tank custom drilled and custom
overflow (or skimmer? not sure of terms here) boxes added around the
drilled drains for a VERY reasonable cost (compared to LFS
prices). ReefCentral suggests a 1.55" drain and
21" linear overflow. I plan to put in 2x1.5"
drains (one in each back corner) with returns. Can you
please tell me the size of return I should put in??<Two 1/2"
returns should work well for the 70.> I am thinking
1" for each drain - does this sound right? <A little large for
a return on this size tank.> Also, for the box, I am
thinking 2 boxes measuring 8"x5" (this is more than
ReefCentral calculated). Is this too big for the
boxes??<I don't think so, but I think I'd go with RC's
calculation.> I need relatively gentle flow for seahorses
but was kinda thinking that, if I decide to move the horses later and
make the 70g into a full reef, converting the 2x1.5" and the
2x1" bulkheads into drains while plumbing the returns over the
back of the tank would provide the chaotic flow preferred by many more
sensitive corals. Please advise on this. <I believe the
two 1 1/2 drains and two 1/2" returns will give you all the flow
you need. I would get a pump with a minimum of 800gph. Use a
header with ball valves to control flow rate in each section.>
3. If I have a DSB in the "main" 'fuge and
also in the sump 'fuge, how much sand should I put in the seahorse
side?? Is 1.5" enough or too much??<Anything much
over 1 1/2" depth will require sand stirrers to keep the bed
healthy and not become a nitrate factory.> I would like
it to be at least a decorative amount but don't want to worry about
DSB problems with any inverts who might decide to stir the
bed. Or should I just have DSB in all areas?? I
know this is a "preference" kinda thing but would like your
advice. <From what you are saying it will be for cosmetic value so
go with 1 1/2" deep beds.> 4. If I decide to use a
manifold on the returns, should I use one manifold for the entire tank
with both returns feeding it or should I use a separate manifold for
each side of the tank?? <I would use separate returns.> I have
not purchased any pumps, skimmers, etc yet. I wanted to
start with a properly designed tank and buy the equipment to
match. I have always believed that you should never get a
pet you are not prepared to care for properly, which is why I have been
reading and researching for 4 months now and still haven't
purchased a single piece of equipment. Thanks again for all
your help.<Nicole, also do google searches on the Wet Web on your
subjects. The FAQ's provided info on other aquarists
problems in these areas. You are doing the right thing by taking your
time and researching. It will only lead you to less trouble
later. Most newbies will shoot first and ask questions
later. Good luck in your project. James (Salty Dog)> Nicole the
Neophyte

Re: Confusion Hi Mr. Fenner, <Anthony Calfo with the
follow up> Thanks for replying back to my message - Your inputs has
helped me to define what I want. However, you still left out one
important detail : my question about the optimal/ideal combination of
filter types for a reef system ... <ideal and optimum would be best
determined after deciding which animals you will keep first and what
their needs/sensitivities are. Else, we must accept a more generalized
ideal based on what you are likely to keep.> You suggested I drop
the canister filter - So I am now left with the Aqua C protein Skimmer
.. What else can I use with that ? <skimmers and live rock
alone provide the foundation of a very successful and low maintenance
system. Some carbon/chemical media (in a small power filter perhaps)
and regular water changes round out the list nicely> Does this then
leave me with just the wet/dry trickle filter ( which you state does
cause nitrate problems )and lastly the undergravel filter, in that
order of choice? <ughhh... neither. Nitrate producing machines that
are only necessary of you will overfeed or prefer to keep large messy
fish (the lesser of two evils then)> If I add the wet/dry filter,
what is the best way to deal with the nitrate problem? <use a deep
sand bed and live rock instead of a W/D filter if you intend to have a
"typical" reef with small and medium fishes> In your book,
you state about Wet/dry filters - " .. it has an important
shortcoming - nitrate accumulation-that has caused most reef aquarist
to move on to newer and better models". Such as ? Any
recommendations ? <as above> Secondly, you suggest I leave the
powerheads out entirely and use 2 large external pumps with several
outlet ports. Can this set up be rigged with a controller to simulate
waves and such ? <yes... although not necessary or even beneficial.
Very tricky to pull off successfully. It is more important to have
dynamic flow which most of us as aquarists are lacking in our tanks. I
also strongly prefer external water pumps... directed through outlets
to converge in the display to create strong random turbulent water
motion. Optimal for coral growth and health in captivity> Sumps -
how often do these end up in disasters ? <don't follow the
question? Tanks with siphon over flows are disasters. Tanks with
drilled overflows and properly calculated/designed sumps are foolproof
and a tremendous advantage to most any system> Once again, thanks
... Victor Acquah <best regards, Anthony Calfo>

New Aquarium (marine set-up) Bob Greetings from the UK -
found your site a couple of weeks ago, so lunchtimes at work have been
spent pouring through the info. Excellent stuff! <Ahh, glad to share
the time with you> I have an existing (small) marine set-up - 25 gal
- that has been running smoothly for 6 months. It's a Jewel Rekord
96 with a Fluval 204 external filter and a SeaClone skimmer. Live stock
is 2 x Percula Clowns, 1 x Firefish, 1 x Yellow Tang, 1 x Queen Angel,
2 x Hermit Crabs. As you can see I'm in need of upgrading the
system, so I've bought a new 65 gal tank (Jewel Rio 240) and Eheim
2217 filter and will move the other filter & skimmer along with the
livestock over when the tank has cycled. <Good... this will need to
be upgraded to a larger size in turn in time> Now for the question.
I've invested in 50lbs of Fiji live-rock which is now sitting
pretty in the new tank. How important is the skimmer in this situation?
- the new tank is currently skimmer less. I'm doing a 20% water
change every other day since I put the rock in so will this be
enough? <Mmm, no. You will save time, money (in water costs,
livestock problems), by investing in an efficient skimmer for your new
system now> I know your thoughts on the SeaClone - is 65 gal too
much for it to handle? <Yes> Any other bits of kit that I should
strongly think about purchasing, especially considering that my budget
is pretty much gone? Many thanks Andy Bridport <Keep studying,
chatting with other hobbyists, your fish shop personnel. We'll be
chatting. Bob Fenner>

RE: Right Equipment? Thanks for the prompt response. I really
appreciated that. After your guidance I went to the web site and read a
lot of the articles and most of the Q&A. This definitely cleared a
lot of my concerns but now I have a zillion questions. Hope you can
help me. <I will try> I read on an Internet forum that the
bio-wheels that I have are not appropriate for a reef aquarium. Is this
true? <More appropriate than nothing...> Can I keep the two
Emperor 400 and add a H.O protein skimmer? <Yes, certainly> Is
the Berlin H.O. Skimmer a good choice? <Yes> Based on what I saw
on the web site I think I may be a little low on light. Can I start
with this and get more later? <Yes> I also heard that the Rio
pumps that I have are not as good. Should I change them? <Rios are
fine in more than 99% of cases, installations, applications... some do
"go out"... most from a lack of simple cleaning... all should
be periodically (monthly, quarterly maybe) taken out of service,
inspected, cleaned... Often with a simple brushing, freshwater,
sometimes with a dunk in white vinegar...> I was planning to put the
two pumps on the bottom of the tank on opposite sides. Should I get a
third pump for the top of my tank thus increasing water movement?
Should I get another brand/type? <A good idea. Hagen and Aquarium
Systems units are superior here> Will a wave maker make a difference
at this time or should I get one only when I have a stable system?
<I'd wait for now> I live in Puerto Rico so I will definitely
need to get a chiller. Do I also need to add a heater just in case?
<A good idea> I live very close to the coast and I am also a
diver thus I could have the opportunity to collect my sand and rock
from the local waters. Is this a good idea? By doing this, I am risking
my tank by introducing undesirable creatures into my tank? How long do
I have to keep the collected items before introducing them into my
system? Can I just keep them in a bucket or do I have to have a second
tank with filtration? <Please read over the WWM materials here on
LR, LS> Thanks a lot for your help. I hope that my next e-mail is
not full of questions. I promise to keep reading and doing my homework.
I'll keep you posted of my progress. Happy Holydays, Guillermo
<And you my friend/mi amigo. Nos vemos. Bob Fenner>

Making a reef list [and checking it twice] Dear Jason or Bob
<<in this case, JasonC - hello.>> Just wanted to run this
reef system by you to see if it will work:
<<ok>> 75g all glass tank {standard};80lb Fiji
rock;60lb lives and [nature's ocean]; two Prizm skimmers,
<<this I would change, perhaps an AquaC remora.>> 3-4
powerheads, with a wave timer power strip; emperor 400 w/d filter just
to clear things up] and my lighting is a JBJ hood w/ 4-55w power
compacts, 2 white 2 blue. and a 150w heater. I was going to let the
tank cure for 2 months before I started any coral additions and the
fish can wait as there in my other tank, I have 40lb of liverock
that's been in this tank for 1year so this will be part of the
80lbs of my reef system. well that's about it hope you can spare
some knowledge, I'd like to do this right for once (lol)
<<this does sound like a good plan/set-up.>> Thanks
<<Cheers, J -- >>

Live Rocks I'm receiving a salt water tank this week end.
(free) <Cheap at twice the price.> It's coming with Live
rocks. I've never ever had a regular aquarium let alone a salt
water one. I don't even know what a live rock is! Which one of your
books would be beneficial to me, a very new beginner. <Yikes, lots
to learn, appreciate... and a few good works in print to help you.
Please do consider The Conscientious Marine Aquarist as a possible good
first all round reference and a going over of our website:
www.WetWebMedia.com as well as browsing the aquarium listservs and
bulletin boards... their links can be found on the WWM links
pages...> Some fish are coming too but I don't know what they
are. I'm writing to you now so I can set up the tank as fast as I
can to keep it.......healthy? Sandy Kalnai <Do ask, get their names
and start studying... ask around if there is a good local fish store
nearby if someone will come over and coach you at this point... Bob
Fenner>

Too many questions? (marine aquarium set-up) Dear Mr. Fenner,
I am REALLY new to Saltwater Setups, in fact, I'm so new at this
that I am still in the planning and purchasing process before plunging
into it. <Good place to be> I've successfully kept freshwater
fish for about 1 year, and by summer I'm planning on setting up my
already purchased 65 gallon saltwater (fish only) tank. For filtration
I have purchased the Fluval 404, and the Aqua-C Remora Skimmer with
bubble trap. Will this be sufficient? <For what types of
livestock? With live rock? What sort of lighting? Should be okay with
perhaps the addition of a powerhead or two... with live rock,
sufficient lighting> As for lighting (yet to be purchased) I was
thinking of a double strip fluorescent (any of your input will be
greatly appreciated). <Please see the "Light",
"Lighting" sections of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com here.
The FAQs sections you will find enlightening... couldn't help
myself, sorry> I have ordered your book "The conscientious
Marine Aquarist", however, it's on backorder (my luck!).
<Can be had still at a few places (in reprint)... please seen the
"CMA input" section of our WWM site here> I've been
spending most of my time on the Internet reading and researching as
much information as I can possible find, and it seems the more I read,
the more confused I become, and the more questions I end up having.
Please help me on this one: I really want to put Live Rock into my
upcoming tank. So when I set it up, do I start with Live Rock and NO
fish, or do I start with a damsel and no live rock until the cycling is
complete? <Just the live rock by itself> Can live rock
actually cycle the water for me, and if so, how? <Please read over
the "live rock" sections on the WWM site> Is it safest to
only buy cured LR? Does LR need any supplements in the water? With LR,
do I still test my water daily to see how the cycling process is going
along? (I'm sorry for probably sounding pretty dumb!) <No, you
sound intelligent, curious, desirous of doing good by your livestock...
These questions are answered on our site> I have another question
regarding substrate. For a fish only tank, how many inches of substrate
do you recommend, and what type? <See "Marine
Substrates"...> (I was thinking of using a mixture of crushed
coral and sand.) Again, I apologize for all my questions, and your help
is certainly greatly appreciated, especially the one regarding the LR
and setting up a new tank. Sincerely, Wendy <No worries. Pleased to
make your acquaintance. I can and will help you. Bob Fenner>

Set up on a 125 reef system This might be a rather long bunch
of questions, sorry about that. <No worries> We are in the
planning stages for a 125 gallon reef system. The tank will be drilled
for a sump. How large of a sump will be required for that size tank?
<The bigger the better... at least twenty gallons (ten percent of
tank)...> Also what type of water turnover rate should I be looking
at? <Again, the more the merrier... but ten times is a good
number... Luckily, with a system of this size there are some
larger/good choices in pumps.> There will be at least 135 lbs. of
Fiji live rock from FFExpress. Is this enough LR or should I go over
the 150 lb. mark? <IME, the 150... you can even add another
box later if you'd like> I would like a sand bottom but I'm
kind of confused as to whether we should go with live sand or just
purchase some sand from my LFS. Wouldn't curing the live rock in
the tank give the sand a real good start on being "live
sand"? <Yes, this is how "live sand" is actually
made... I would just have the LR inoculate your "dead"
substrate> The next step would be lighting. I was looking at the 5
ft. 4x96 watt from flying fish, but if I wanted to have Acropora type
corals or Clams would I need a metal halide lamp and what size would
that be? <I would stick with the compact fluorescents at this
point... the chances of trouble... mismatching boosted photosynthesis
with biomineral, alkalinity, pH, algae problems, waste heat... are not
worth the extra growth here... Next tank> After the rock is cured
I'd need to add snails and hermits, but what type of sand stirrers
would be good and how many? <See the www.WetWebMedia.com site re
sand stirrers> Would the Berlin turbo-floater be a large enough
skimmer for this set-up? <Yes, a good choice> Last but maybe
least, would adding all the corals at once be shear insanity? I think
so, but my friend seems to think that this is the way to go. HELP!
<Not a good idea, or necessary at all... go slowly here, practicing
with hardier types like some of the soft corals, polyps, mushrooms...
and then grade-up into the hardier true/stony corals in a few
months...> I would appreciate your input on this, you have helped in
the past and hopefully will continue to do so. Thanks, Charlie and
Lorie <Chat with you soon my friends. Bob Fenner>

A New Tank Hiya Bob I have been writing to you for a while
now asking your advice on how to upgrade my tank, sumps skimmers LR
etc. Well on Saturday I went to my LFS to see how much it was gonna set
me back and what I would need to do. Well, the cost of implementing all
my well thought out plans was far above my budget, and it would mean me
hacking my tank to pieces in the first place! So I have decided to look
around at second hand deals, and I think I am on for a winner and I
would like your advice. <Nothing wrong with good used gear> The
tank is 54 X 26 X 24 and is a "fitt" system (unsure whether
they have these in the USA) and it is 2.5 years old. the guy is asking
?650 for it ($1040 approx) it has 2 150W Metal halide lights 1 40inch
actinic strip An air driven protein Skimmer A wet Dry filter A trickle
filter and an ??ozone filter?? not really heard of this before <An
ozone reactor... you can read about such on the www.WetWebMedia.com
site, under physical filtration in the Marine Index> He has told me
that it has sustained inverts such as anemones and soft corals in the
past and the design of the tank is that it is filled with LR for
biological filtration. <Okay> I was just wondering whether this
was a good deal or not? Should I look elsewhere? For a higher spec (I
wish to keep basic soft corals and hopefully an anemone :-S)? or just
try and knock him down on the cash stakes? Thanks in advance for any
help you can offer. <Considering the cost-shock I received last year
from buying fast food and gas (not at the same time, place) in the UK,
this does sound like a fair deal. Do have a friend in the know go over
with you to pick it all up, and check out that the bits are all there
and functional. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Some BIG questions on marine set-up, gear I have a few
questions that I would like to ask you regarding setting up a new tank.
I have a 75 gallon tank that I would like to set up. I have read
several books that suggest different types of set ups. I have no ides
what would be the best for a beginner. My questions were: 1) What type
of filtration system & protein skimmer would you recommend using
for a fish only or fish & live rock set up. 2) I have read about
several types of brands that I have not seen in any of my local fish
stores. I was wondering if you could suggest a place on the web that
sells your suggested items. Thank you, Jim <Thank you for writing.
Please make a very large amount of whatever brand of caffeine (1,3,7
trimethyl xanthine, the world's most widely abused psycho-active
drug) you prefer (or if against your faith, just go with that) and dial
in the website: www.WetWebMedia.com and search the sections there on
set-up, and use the Links pages for manufacturers and e-tailers of the
gear mentioned. You're welcome. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Marine tank set-up Thank you for your response to my last
email. I have been reading and reading and have some new questions
regarding my set up. I'm currently torn between two set ups. I want
to start my 60flat back hex as a FOWLR tank. I will probably start with
approx 40lbs of live rock and add more gradually as time goes on.
I'm planning on cycling the tank with the live rock. The fish
I'm looking at keeping eventually and gradually are 1 flame angel,
1 coral beauty, 1 common clownfish, 1 yellow tang, 1 royal Gramma, 1
blenny 1 green Chromis, and 1 twin-spot wrasse (this is all subject to
change and compatibility but just to give you an idea) The two set-ups
I'm looking at are <Sounds good so far, with the exception of
the two Dwarf Angels... would stick with just either the Coral Beauty
or Flame myself> SETUP #1 -60 gal flat back hex acrylic tank with
pre-drilled overflows. -20 gal DIY sump with Bioball chamber to supply
additional biological filtration (approx 10 gal H20 in sump) -Berlin
regular or Turboflotor 1000 protein skimmer -200W Ebo-Jager heater -Mag
700 submersible return pump. -2 Maxi-jet model 600 powerheads SETUP #2
-60 gal flat back hex acrylic tank pre-drilled for canister and hang on
skimmer. -Eheim 2226 Professional canister filter (for mechanical and
supplemental biological filtration) -200W Ebo-Jager heater -CPR Bak-Pak
2 or Aqua C. Remora hang on protein skimmer. -2 Maxi-jet model 600
powerheads Which set-up would you go with? #1 is more flexible, but
seems more complicated to me, has no real mechanical filtration, and
has the additional chance of overflowing onto my carpet. #2 is less
flexible, but seems simpler to set-up. I don't have my tank yet so
I still have the luxury of ordering it with whatever slots or holes I
need. I don't mind seeing a heater in my tank either. Is #1 going
to add a noticeable amount of "stability" to my system by
increasing my water volume by 10gallons? <Well, both have their
merits, as you point out... the sump is nice to have, but I would not
use bioballs... If it had to be one or the other, I'd pick #2, but
if I could modify these choices I'd take one and place live rock
and macro-algae in the sump and add its own small fluorescent
lighting> If I go with #1 which is better the Berlin or the
Turboflotor? <In the shorter term the Turboflotor, in the
longer, it doesn't make any difference...> What gph water flow
should I have through the sump? <A couple or three hundred
actual gallons per hour is about right... you could (of course) have
more circulation in the main tank (via powerheads, small submersible
pumps... a good idea)> Do I need to build in the Bioball
chamber? <Nope. I'd skip this nitrate factory from the
get-go> If I don't and I add more fish before live rock
won't there be too much waste for the LR to keep up with?
<Don't worry... self-supplied for many months> If I go with
#2 which is better the Bak-Pak 2 or the Remora? When I have enough LR
in my system can I just start removing the bio-media from this filter?
<In the short term... the CPR product... see above re the longer
term... Once system is "settled in", very little skimmate
will be had to remove.> Some people I talk to say a sump is the only
way to go, while others I talk to say a sump is overly complicated for
a beginner and not really needed if you have a good canister filter and
hang-on skimmer. Please send me your advice on what to do. <Both
gear approaches have their pros/cons... nice to have more volume,
flexibility... and not a big deal to move water around and through the
main system and a sump/refugium...> Thanks for your time. Sincerely,
John <Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Marine Setup I currently have a Juwel Rio 180L tropical setup
with Fluval 304 as extra filtration. I am wanting to change to a marine
setup but I don't know a lot on how to go about it. The way I am
thinking to go is get a hang on skimmer e.g. Bak Pak II, change my
current light bulbs for marine ones, I know I can't afford much
rock, only probably spend unto ?100 on Fiji rock so not sure about
whether to use a plenum? I have also been told I can use my
Fluval 304 as a UV, but have no idea how this works or what it means?
If you can start me in the right direction whilst I keep reading I
would be grateful. Regards, Carl <Lots of questions here that need
much investigating... do read over as much of our site on system set-up
and maintenance as you can (www.WetWebMedia.com), as all these items
and much more are covered there... and do look into getting your hands
on a good reference book or two... Tropic Marine Centre distributes
many good titles in the UK... take a look at their website and have
your dealer order what you want. Bob Fenner>

New tank set-up Hi Bob, I am new to saltwater and have bought
a 46 gallon bow front tank for fish and a few invertebrates. I need
good advice on lighting and filtration. I plan to get some live rock
and cure it in the tank soon, but need to set up filtration first...and
soon lighting. I am looking at a Remora Pro or a Bioskim 600. Both are
primarily skimmers, but I could add chemical filtration if needed. I am
also looking at VHO lighting. Will a skimmer fit the bill for
filtration, or should I be looking at a combo unit like the CPR
Cyclone? Is VHO lighting enough, or should I go to MH. I have MH in my
Discus tank and it is awesome...but it has promoted some overgrowth of
algae. I'd like to keep things as simple as possible.
<Hmm, either skimmer will do... and with the live rock up and going,
some mechanical and chemical filtration is best accomplished with a
good canister filter (the best, and Eheim product)... or secondarily,
one or two hang on the back power filters... If it were my size, shape
tank, the hands down choice in lighting would be compact
fluorescents... either just some 5,500 to 7,200 K temperature lamps or
with an Actinic or two... Cure the live rock in place, with regular
lighting, skimmer going full out... And please take a look at much more
detailed info. stored on our site. Be chatting, Bob
Fenner>

Re: New marine tank Dear Mr. Fenner, Thanks for your kind and
extremely prompt response to a total stranger's email. You are
probably inundated with emails such as these, I won't continue to
pester you after this... <Never a bother.> Most sources
I've consulted assert that a skimmer is necessary, and your advice
clinches it: I'm buying a skimmer before introducing another fish.
<Good to hear. Very valuable piece of gear... My stock statement to
folks who would leave off with one, is to consider pouring in the muck
they see it remove from their water... no takers as yet.> As well as
the Damsel, I'm planning on introducing a Clown and either a Pygmy
Basslet, Firefish, or one of the smaller Puffer species. Per your
advice, I'll limit this tank to three fish. What do you think of
this combination? (I'm aware that the Clown and the Goby are
aggressively territorial... is this a recipe for disaster?) <Not
necessarily... there is a very wide range of probable temperaments
amongst the species/groups cited. Do seek out a species of tank
bred/reared Clown and possible Basslet... the Firefishes I'd skip
on... they really need to be kept in a group... (at least two)... and
there are a bunch of Gobies (period, and) that are easygoing... like
the Cryptocentrus...> I purchased the large biological filter
because I am planning to start a larger system after a move next year.
Assuming that all goes well, my current specimens will be housed by my
local pet store (a highly reputable operation) while the new tank
matures. After having added the store water to my current tank,
however, I am concerned about having infected the (rather expensive)
filter. Is there anything I can do to be certain that it is
"clean" before moving it to a new tank without creating a
hostile environment for future bacterial growth or killing current
growth? <Hmm, clean? We need to "talk" more... and
read my friend.> Thank you once again. Robert Duff <Bob
Fenner>

Books & Equipment Dear Bob, Thanks for your response. How
do I find Mr. Escobal's book? <Hmm, Amazon has it...
http://www.amazon.com> I have experience with fresh water stuff but
I live in Pleasant Prairie Wisconsin - a long way from the sea and
anyone as interested in this as I am - not much in the way of helpful
retailers who want to sell anything they don't have in stock.
<My friend Scott Michael, who also endeavors to photograph, dive and
write about the living marine world lives in.... Lincoln,
Nebraska...> WetWebMedia and the dealers on the web have been an
inspiration to get this retired diver busy on something he has wanted
to do for a long time. I have studied a number of books on reef keeping
and more are on order. I'm a very handy plumber, electrician and
carpenter and am confident I can put together something I will enjoy
for a long time. <You have much more going for you than the
average...> I feel it will take a year or so to finish stocking with
fish and a variety of invertebrates other than hard corals. I will
start with live rock and live sand and a few fish and slowly build but
I want to invest immediately in the best possible environmental
equipment. <Good plan, philosophy> The problem is that there is
so much equipment available and so many opinions (most from those with
equipment for sale) it is very hard to choose. Also, I have found no
specific information on a complete water treatment loop with remote
location. Not much on how to avoid hanging equipment or hoses over the
edge of the tank. This is going in our living room with hard wood
floors and oriental rug - not with my other stuff in the basement. I
envision running three 3/4" lines (in, out, and drain) and
building an in line system with valve set up do it all there.
<Make those at least one inch inside diameter... trust me> I
travel a lot (diving mostly) and there are no "aquarium
services" here except what I teach our daily animal sitter to do
so I want big filters needing infrequent service. <I travel, diving
about a quarter of the year as well...> Do you know of a friendly
reef keeper who has done something like this with whom I could email?
Or a knowledgeable no B.S. mail order dealer who might want to help me
in exchange for a nice order? <Hmm, that's a tough request...
Don't know much about your part of the planet... But you seem to be
a good judge of character... ask the stores, hobby group near you...
even the e-bulletin boards for someone helpful, available within
striking distance?> Thanks again - you are great contributor to this
project already. Howard <Glad to be here... just back from two
weeks on a liveaboard in Egypt's southern Red Sea... Bob
Fenner>

46g Fish Only Bob- Hello, I love the website, very
information. I have several questions for you, if you have time to
help. I am very new to the hobby, but have been reading everything I
can get my hands on. I am setting up a 46 gal, fish only (FO) saltwater
tank. I have used a few pieces of dry (dead) coral for decoration, as
well as to provide hiding spots. First question, regarding fish. I
would like to put in several clowns (6), a few yellow tangs (3), a
powder blue tang, and maybe (or both) Niger trigger and/or Assasi red
sea trigger. Is this too many fish? <Yes sir... and not too hardy
(the Powder Blue) or compatible (the Triggers)... keep dreaming, making
up the stocking list...> Any problems with species? Next question, I
am using the CPR BakPak Bio-filter/skimmer with a power head, a Fluval
304 canister filter, and another power head for circulation. Does this
sound adequate? <Should be fine> I have access to a UV
sterilizer, but was told with a FO tank, I didn't need it.
<If you have it, I'd stick it on.... better water quality, some
disease prevention...> Finally, I am now ready to add everything
together. I understand it is best to add the water, the salt, and then
to the gravel and decor. I have purchased Fritzyme Turbo Start 900, can
I just add fish and the Fritz and start? <Would be better to
add water, salt, let run for a week... then just add a small piece of
live rock (return the Fritzyme product, trade it in...> Also what
fish should I start with (as per your recommendation and the list
above). I would appreciate hearing back from you. Thanks again!
Cory <Take a long read through the selection and
species/groups coverage on the site... too big a category/question w/o
knowing "what you like", and intend to do with the
livestock.... Many choices. Bob Fenner>

Reef Tank Questions (Clarification Needed) Bob, Appreciate
the quick response and I too am looking forward to further chat with
you as my tank matures. Need a little bit further clarification and one
new question right at the top. I will be purchasing an RO system, only
debate is should I go with just a plain RO or should I go for the RO/DI
units? <Just the RO, for sure... the DI does little to better the
water after... Hmm, sounds like a nice system... you may well need to
boost the lighting for the Clams and anemones... maybe at least
one 400 watt MH> Would 2 250watt 10K as well as two VHO Actinic be
adequate? I know that I begin to have heat concerns with the higher
wattage in the canopy and I want to avoid having to go with a chiller.
I never let the house get above 80 degrees. The canopy will have a fan
and vent on both ends and I was told on the really hot days I could
crack the doors on the canopy and direct a fan at it to help with the
cooling. I just want to make sure that I have enough light for the
anemones and clams. Are the 175 watts out of the questions for the
anemones and clams? <The two 250's would be fine, a maxima would
live under the 175's... > In addition to the main returns I have
4 maxi-jet 1200 powerheads which will be controlled via the
red-sea pro wavemaker. What are your suggestions for placement of
these heads in the tank? <Crossing each other in pairs toward the
middle from upper or lower corners> So not a head in each corner but
put two of the power heads together in one corner in each side of the
tank either upper or lower? <Actually, all in the opposing corners,
aimed toward the front... crossing each other there...> Would a
calcium reactor be needed during the 2 month maturation process or
would this be something that could be added once I began to fill the
tank with livestock. Is it better to just go ahead and put it in at the
start? Jason

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner