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Topic: Fountain / Water Feature Control (Read 2794 times)

You can get the sprinkler valve at your local hardware store (Lowe's or Home Depot have them as well, maybe cheaper). You'll just need a 24v AC wall wart or other suitable power supply (available in the same dept as the sprinkler valve). Wire one wire of the power supply through the switch and back to the valve. Connect the other wire to the second wire on the valve. Easy as can be. May sure to properly insulate everything and follow electrical code. Most likely you just need to provide a GFI for that circuit....

Yup. Pretty simple. I have a box of old wall warts. I keep them when the electronic device they go to is either broken or no longer useful. My wife says I'm a hoarder. I say I have what I need when I need it most of the time!

This circuit is on GFI already, BTW and once I'm under 50 volts to ground, the CEC / NEC no longer applies, IIR.

Simply put a pipe into the body of water and a reservoir outside where the float sits. The water level will equalize with the reservoir and the float setting will maintain the water level. No muss no fuss and always perfect level.

Simply put a pipe into the body of water and a reservoir outside where the float sits. The water level will equalize with the reservoir and the float setting will maintain the water level. No muss no fuss and always perfect level.

To be clear, are we talking about auto fill for the fountain or my pool? For the fountain this is possible but for the pool it isn't practical as the pipe from the filler valve under the patio on the back of the house is under the concrete and comes out in the pool wall of the pool. I'm not sure how this would control that valve? I need something electrical and wireless to fill the gap between the float and the valve. This one is a great idea and I think used quite often for pools under construction but not for retrofit, unless I'm missing something?

I hadn't seen a valve like that but I had seen a few that looked like toilet tank valves. That would work though. As for using it for a pool, wherever the fill line is accessible out from underneath the slab, you'd have to install a reservoir that came up to above the full level of the pool and install the valve there. It's doable, but you'd have to decide if it was something you wanted to do.

I hadn't seen a valve like that but I had seen a few that looked like toilet tank valves. That would work though. As for using it for a pool, wherever the fill line is accessible out from underneath the slab, you'd have to install a reservoir that came up to above the full level of the pool and install the valve there. It's doable, but you'd have to decide if it was something you wanted to do.

Not really aesthetically pleasing. That's why a float switch with wireless (z-wave or otherwise) in the strainer basket area to send a signal to a valve controller is really the only way. I suppose this maybe will have to wait until we remodel the pool so it'll be a while.

Not familiar with the construction of your pool. However, this is typically done by boring a 3/4" line into the side of the pool below the water level and out under the deck or into the deck. Then a pool filler reservoir is placed there. This is the same as a skimmer reservoir without the flat inlet in the front. The level of the water is controlled by the device I specified previously which is connected to the pressure line piped into this reservoir. As the level drops in the pool the level drops in the reservoir and the reservoir is refilled to increase the level of the pool. This also has the added benefit of not being affected by splashing or rough water caused by windy days and the like.

In a retrofit this will require boring on the plaster below the beam and finding a location anywhere around the perimeter of the pool for the reservoir. BTW I would avoid those that look like they belong in a toilet tank as these are typically made of plastic which is susceptible to freeze and temperature change. While you are at it a good addition is an overflow for when it rains so that the water level never goes to the coping. Water can seep under the deck just below the coping causing damage to your pool deck.

However, there is another solution that might also work for you if you already have a manual filler line piped into your pool.http://ezautofill.com/

Not familiar with the construction of your pool. However, this is typically done by boring a 3/4" line into the side of the pool below the water level and out under the deck or into the deck. Then a pool filler reservoir is placed there. This is the same as a skimmer reservoir without the flat inlet in the front. The level of the water is controlled by the device I specified previously which is connected to the pressure line piped into this reservoir. As the level drops in the pool the level drops in the reservoir and the reservoir is refilled to increase the level of the pool. This also has the added benefit of not being affected by splashing or rough water caused by windy days and the like.

In a retrofit this will require boring on the plaster below the beam and finding a location anywhere around the perimeter of the pool for the reservoir. BTW I would avoid those that look like they belong in a toilet tank as these are typically made of plastic which is susceptible to freeze and temperature change. While you are at it a good addition is an overflow for when it rains so that the water level never goes to the coping. Water can seep under the deck just below the coping causing damage to your pool deck.

However, there is another solution that might also work for you if you already have a manual filler line piped into your pool.http://ezautofill.com/

It is already installed under the concrete deck and about 3" below the bottom of the tile so the automatic filler in the link would have to be modified I think as the pictures for it show the fill line coming out in the tile but thanks. I'll research some more but I guess I'm coming to the realization that not everything needs to be z-wave or whatever to be automatic!

For my pool i was looking at an electronic solution till i finally decided that salt water and electrics dont play nice.

I eventually got a 150 dia PVC, glued an end cap on one end, cut it 600 long and glued a screw on cap on the other end. I then put a toilet cistern fill valve inside with a 40mm connection to my pool and then just set it to stop at the right height, drilled an overflow above that height and plumbed that away for when it rains and my pool over fills... job done and has been maitenance free and worry free for 2 years now.

I can take a few photos of my setup if you think its something that you would be interested in looking at?

For my pool i was looking at an electronic solution till i finally decided that salt water and electrics dont play nice.

I eventually got a 150 dia PVC, glued an end cap on one end, cut it 600 long and glued a screw on cap on the other end. I then put a toilet cistern fill valve inside with a 40mm connection to my pool and then just set it to stop at the right height, drilled an overflow above that height and plumbed that away for when it rains and my pool over fills... job done and has been maitenance free and worry free for 2 years now.

I can take a few photos of my setup if you think its something that you would be interested in looking at?