If anybody's looking to do it themselves, here's a quick little primer on how to do it...

First locate your reflective material. For the large areas, I've been using Avery and 3M Scotchlight self-adhesive reflective films for years now, but my supplier is shifting to another product from Oracal. It's as good as the Avery product they say, and it's cheaper (15" wide $14USD/yd, 24" wide $24USD/yd(ish)). It comes in a number of colors, and has a 1yd/color minimum purchase (3 colors = 3 yards = lots of coverage).

For my bikes, I've come to the decision that the 24" wide material is a LOT more effective (especially when you're doing your first bike).

You'll need some tools, such as good scissors, an X-acto knife (or two) with a few new #11 blades, a cutting surface, a metal ruler, a hair drier, some Goo Gone, rubber gloves, safety glasses, rags, and a sharpie pen.

When applying these products, it's important to have the surface clean and dry, so your bike gets a nice bath and a rubdown (or air dry) before you get started.

My latest method to capture detail is to start with outlining the small stuff first. I cut thin (sacrificial) strips (1/16" wide or so) of a different color than the main area, then carefully apply it to the detail I want to keep. Remember the more detail you want to keep, the harder and longer this process will take (Keep It Simple Stupid applies). When finished outlining, cut strips of the main color, and apply it over the area. Using your fingernails, firmly press the main color into the edges of the outlining material, this will guide you as you trim the material with the X-acto. Peel back the material that's overlapping the detail, then using the Goo Gone (with proper safety gear), remove any residue from the detail area. Then apply the detail color over it's area, and again with the fingernails, X-acto, and Goo Gone.

Do not try to wrap the entire tube in a single piece of film, it won't work cleanly, and you'll end up wasting a lot of material (if you want a nice finish). I find that strips that are not much more than 1/3 the circumference work best. For best results, start at the lower (say right) side, then switch to the other (left) side, then from the top (I like a little overlap). This eliminates areas where water may catch and possibly cause failure of the adhesive (or catch dirt and make the joints more visible). Any bubbles that get trapped under the film can be dealt with by simply lancing them with a sharp X-acto blade.

A hair drier helps make the films flexible when going around odd shapes. Using scraps, and the sharpie can help you make cutting patterns for things like lettering.

2004 Giant Rainier (using 3M blue and white Scotchlight films)

Some time and effort, and you can end up with a really convincing application that doesn't stand out in day, but has a remarkable effect at night.

I am thinking about doing this to my Xtracycle. The key word here is thinking about it. Or I might just get a new battery and charger for my DLG.

2008 Kona Fire Mountain/Xtracycle
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I void warranties.
Cycling well IS Cycling Advocacy
Originally Posted by Steely Dan: if you're riding a bike and not having fun, then you're doing it wrong.

Thanks for the reminder, K'tesh. I was wondering if I would be able to find the previous threads where you show how you do that.

Do you add anything reflective to a rain jacket? I got the one made in Portland (sorry forget the name) but I would like a little more reflection on the back and maybe the sleeves. Without stitching holes through what ever makes it waterproof.

If you see me, please introduce yourself, I've been wondering if I've seen you around.

Originally Posted by enigmaT120

Thanks for the reminder, K'tesh. I was wondering if I would be able to find the previous threads where you show how you do that.

Do you add anything reflective to a rain jacket? I got the one made in Portland (sorry forget the name) but I would like a little more reflection on the back and maybe the sleeves. Without stitching holes through what ever makes it waterproof.

If you want to post there, I strongly recommend you read the Newbie forum carefully.

My current coat doesn't have additional reflective elements added. I added reflective material to my old Columbia coat, by carefully taking a reflective vest apart. I used Fabri-Tak cement (available at fabric shops) to glue the reflective material to the cuffs, and the areas (inside and out) near the front zipper. Later, I used the reflective strip I removed from a used up commuter tire to add "piping" to the sleeves. To do the cuffs, I stretched the cuff over a piece of PVC pipe to take out the wrinkles, glued the material, then let it dry before removing the pipe.

Thanks for bringing this back up, K'Tesh, I'm about do redo my LHT's reflective stripes (several got mangled in the accident) and I'll see if I can get enough time to cut them, apply them, and post up pics. I need to do my new helmet, too.

The Lightweights for wheels are self-adhesive stickers that are pre-cut for you. The package has an alignment guide included. You clean the spokes, then using the guide and a sharpie, you mark the location of the stickers. Then apply.

If your are referring to the lights that you see in my wheels, they are part of my flux-capacitor system that I designed... When using flux-capacitors, it is very important to remember to bring fuel for the return trip.

Originally Posted by Andy_K

What's your total cost to make a bike glow? Have you considered offering this service for a fee?

Retro-reflective treatments cost roughly $25USD/color. For detail work (including the lettering) Fast Signs (in Beaverton) bid the Trek job at $250 in labor. If I was doing something like the Rainier, I'd be wanting a figure about like that. For a job like my Mom's bike, and I'd say $30(+materials) would be fair.

so you can buy the tape just for the spokes? And the reflective tape for the frame?

Amazing idea.

In your signature pic, you are wearing a lot of reflective stuff too. Did you hae to modify and add more reflective stuff to your clothing?

Yup... The film that I use for the frame is too rigid to go around the tight turns of a spoke, that's why I use the Lightweights. I'd say that I don't use "tape" for the frame (you could), as tape comes on rolls which tend to be quite expensive for the amount you get, and you are can't create a strip wider than the tape.

On my coat you see in the pic, I added all but the narrow band of reflectivity seen under my armpit, in the center shot. Again, using fabri-tac glue instead of sewing.