Salmon Mousse

by Rachel on April 8, 2010

Salmon Mousse

Chef Anne McAllister was back at my house recently. I gave my eldest son a private cooking class with Chef Anne for his 11th birthday. Yes, I know, he is not your average 11 year old. He’s the son of an avid cook/food blogger and the grandson of a chef and I promise he will make someone really happy someday with his well-honed kitchen skills and his wide-ranging palate. He insisted that they prepare a 5-course French dinner. He and Anne cooked the meal together in our kitchen and they served it to our immediate family and the family of his best friend from school. It was absolutely one of the best meals we’ve ever eaten (and we’ve eaten quite a few fine meals in our day). I was in a food coma for a solid 30 hours afterwards. The appetizer course was this delightful salmon mousse. Making it does require that you either own or purchase a terrine mold. This mousse is so good I think you should run right out and buy a mold NOW so that you can make this dish immediately. I’m serious. Where are your car keys?

When Chef Anne gave me this recipe it did not include directions for how to clarify butter. This is because, bless her, Chef Anne assumes that we were all born knowing how to clarify butter, or that we’ve all gone to a Class A French cooking school. Unfortunately, most of us have not. If you already know how to clarify butter skip this section. If you do not – read on! Gently melt unsalted butter over low heat until the butter begins to break down. You’ll see that the melted butter is forming three distinct layers. The top layer is foamy and needs to be skimmed off with a spoon and discarded. The milk solids will drop to the bottom of the saucepan and form a milky layer at the bottom. What is left in the middle is the clarified butter. Once you’ve skimmed off all of the foam take your pan off of the heat and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Next, strain the mixture through a very fine sieve or through a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Your task is complete. Clarified butter can be kept in the fridge for ages. Make extra so that next time you are prepped and ready.

In a food processor, puree 1 pound of the smoked salmon, the clarified butter, and the cream. Puree until really smooth. Turn the mixture out into a mixing bowl. Stir in the lemon juice and chopped herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Salt levels in smoked salmon vary wildly, so be sure to taste for salt BEFORE you add it. You may not need any. Line the prepared mold with ½ (or a little more) of the remaining smoked salmon. To assemble spread ½ of the mousse evenly over the smoked salmon. Lay ½ of the cucumber slices over the mousse, then top with a layer of smoked salmon. Then repeat the process – spread the remaining ½ of the mousse, followed by the cucumber, and then the remaining salmon. Fold over any flaps of salmon from the original layer. Wrap the mold tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

The next day release the mold and invert the salmon mousse onto a platter. Slice carefully with a very sharp knife. This is not an easy task and takes a certain amount of skill, patience and forgiveness. The forgiveness is for YOU. Take a few Zen breaths and just accept the slices as they are. They may not be perfect, but they are good enough and you can press the slices back into shape with your fingers once you plate them or place them on a platter. Serve the terrine with toast points and garnish with fresh herbs. The mousse should be served COLD. It is delicious as an appetizer, or as part of a Sunday brunch.

This blog is dedicated to my parents who taught me that the family meal is a place for reflection, sharing of stories, and for connection. In our family it is a place of safety and certainty and quite frequently of hilarity. The food served by my parents is always made with care, creativity and generosity of spirit. I share their passion for cooking and their belief that the family meal is a critical anchor for all of us.

So, to both of my parents who celebrate life's ups and downs by laughing and lingering in the kitchen, this blog is for you.