Leaks I have a Kenmore Elite,during the drain cycle and sometimes the spin cycle it leaks on the right side as your facing the machine.I have had the machine apart but find no signs of bad hoses or a cracked tub,any suggestions? Jim

My washing machine has a cold water drip inside the drum when the machine is not on. My washing machine has a cold water drip inside the drum when the machine is not on.

AnonymousSep 07, 2008

water leaks when water runs in the tub and when the rinse cycle comes on this all happens on the right front water leaks when water runs in the tub and when the rinse cycle comes on this all happens on the right front

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Re: Leaks

It sounds like you have a leaking pump. The pump is easy to replace:#1 Use a shop vac and pull all the water out of the drain line. This will keep you from having to clean up about 1 gallon of water off of the floor.#2 Lift the front of the machine enough for you to get under and see.the pump just inside the front of the washer.#3 Lift the 2 retaining clips off of the pump. This will allow you to pull the pump off of the motor.#4 Remove the 2 clamps off of the hoses. #5 Install the new pump into the hoses, and reinstall the clamps.#6 With the retaining clips installed into the motor housing, install the pump. #7 Attach the retaining clips, and set the washer back on the ground.

To jim, you may want to check the water pump closer, sometimes the water pump will leak a little during a cycle and the water will leak somewhere on the floor, not necessarily near the water pump.
to the second post (guest), it sounds like you have a bad water valve. the valve is not closing properly and causing water to leak thru.

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Related Questions:

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid...Feb 3, 2010 - During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. ... It happened to us due to over loading. ...something can get betwen the two tubs it this all fails your tub seal is ...

The pump is likely damaged if it was leaking. Look for a ring of melted plastic on the face side of the pump. Check to make sure the hole is not rounded where the motor shaft enters the pump.I'd replace the pump just to make sure the washer doesn't flood some time in the future even if the pump turn out to be ok now.

The first thing i would check is your boot around the door for a rip or tear. Also check the drain line for any types of leaks. You can also remove the bottom panel there will be three torx screws and you can look at your drain pump while in spin and drain cycle to see of the leak located in that area.

My washer makes a wierd clinky sound during wash and rinse cycle and it has began to stop spinning the water will drain but clothes will be soaked. Also sometimes during spin cycle it will agitate instead of spinning

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

If the water leaks during drain and spin only:
A washer that leaks only during the drain/spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Teach, usually all leaks are visable. Have your husband remove the lower panel by removing the 3 #11 torxs on the bottom panel and pull down and off. Now you can see the tub drain hose and filter. First check the dispensor drawer. Remove it and check to see if you have anything blocking the inlet tube to the tub. Sometimes a seal from a fab or detergent cap blocks the entrance. When the disp. is out just reach in with a finger in front and you will feel the inlet grate. Next inspect the boot. Make sure there are no cuts or rips. Once you feel that this checks out ok, replace the disp. drawer and put the machine in the test cycle. On the left side press drain/spin. On the right side press spin speed until No spin is lit. Then press the prewash button 4 times until C:00 is displayed. Now let it do it's thing. It will fill, rotate, drain and spin. It will end with C:08 in the display. With the bottom panel off during the test, see if you can find the source of the leak. You can push cancel/drain anytime to stop the test. Catriver.