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Long story short I was an idiot and left the compound on for 30 minutes. Took most of it off before polish and wax.
Now there are areas that still have compound residue. What would be the best way to remove this? I tried quick detailer and elbow grease without decent results. Would claying it again take care of this?

Best I've seen to remove it is to just recompound/polish that area. It was recommended to me once (as I did the same thing, it happens) and it worked easily. Then just remember to wipe it off this time

Best I've seen to remove it is to just recompound/polish that area. It was recommended to me once (as I did the same thing, it happens) and it worked easily. Then just remember to wipe it off this time

Gotcha. I was thinking that is what I would have to do rather then applying some chemical that I wouldn't be sure how it would react with my paint.

Unfortunately if you have already waxed over it best bet is to get on it with some high concentration wash to remove the wax and start over again. you may be able to skate by with only doing a polish though, check a spot before you go compounding. USE A DA and it wont be long at all!

All by hand. Would love to have used a buffer but, 1.) I don't own one 2.) scared sh$tless about burning thru the clear because of no training. Non the less I am happy with the results.

As long as your not using a rotary you'll be fine. I've polished my evo a few times before as well as a handful of other cars with my flex and it's very hard to burn through the clear with it. You just have to watch for the signs of the polish breaking down so you know it's time to stop. I keep my paint meter handy for the cars I detail that aren't mine since I have no idea what the paint has been through or how thin it is. It looks great though. Especially done by hand.

To save yourself buttloads of effort in the future:
- Buy some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (Walmart). This stuff works great at removing swirls & polishing your clear coat. And it's super easy to apply & buff off.
- Buy a Dual-Action orbital polisher from either Harbor Freight (cheap, when on sale with a 20% off coupon) or Porter-Cable (more expensive, but higher quality).
- Buy a polishing pad for the DA buffer (Meguiar's or Harbor Freight)
- If you've got fairly significant scratches, you can pick up a cutting pad, too.

All by hand. Would love to have used a buffer but,
1.) I don't own one
2.) scared sh$tless about burning thru the clear because of no training.

Non the less I am happy with the results.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19DB794

As long as your not using a rotary you'll be fine. .

19DB794 is right. Grab a DA polisher and you're good to go. No more burning paint.

The first car I ever learned how to buff on back in the late 80's was some old Chevy Chevette at the garage I worked at. One of the guys came and asked me something and I stood there listening to him, with the rotary buffer still going, on the edge of a fender He laughed and told me that's why you start out on junk

In any case, your car looks fantastic! Sounded like a bunch of time/effort, but well worth it!