The iconic French label debuted its Fall/Winter 2018 Couture collection in Paris earlier this morning. With a collection comprised of over 65 looks, the fashion house — which is spearheaded by the ever-gallant, pinnacle designer in high fashion, Karl Lagerfeld — held back no bars in creating one of this season’s greatest shows to grace the hallowed runway of Paris Couture Week.

As one can always expect from Chanel, the runway was filled to the brim with tweed textile. However, shying away from lighter, more delicate tones as seen in many of Chanel’s previous couture collections, the Fall/Winter 2018 season can be better characterized by Lagerfeld’s use of deeper, richer, jewel tones and metallics instead. With an expected focus on tailoring and fit, Chanel re-ups itself each season when it comes to jackets and matching suit separates — re-imagining a traditionally masculine silhouette through the mindful perspective of feminine fitting. Additionally, this season Chanel introduced slit work into many of its looks, from high cuts on the sides of dresses to unzipped sleeves on the arms of jackets, adding an edgier element to Chanel’s hallmark sense of Parisian refinement and modesty.

It seems that for Chanel, this season stems from a creative exploration into the aesthetics behind balance and juxtaposition. Models were styled with slicked back low ponytails, aside from an unmistakable curled tuft of hair which harkens back to a more traditionally “handsome” quaffed look. Light and natural makeup emphasized strong eyes and thick brows, playing up a sense of boyishness to balance out the stream of hyper-feminine silhouettes and designs. Each model wore booties hitting just above the ankle, meshing together the idea of an leg-elongating heel with a military-esque boot.

While Chanel might not be thought of as one of fashion’s most dynamic or “trendy” labels, Chanel has solidified its own standing in the world of fashion with a reverence for tradition and spotlight on design consistency. In the current fashion climate where streetwear and loud logos reign supreme, Chanel sticks to its guns in the latest Fall/Winter 2018 couture collection — preferring to perfect its craft rather than push towards trend.