Hey Uriah...is this what most engine manufacturers use? I had a TOP motor that came that way.

BTW...the price of gas is coming down so you and Nick should head down to Florida

Francis

Hi Francis. I am not sure if we will make it down before Winternats or not. I would like to though. It seems that the engine manufacturers have some type of liquid RTV. The properties are very similar to the stuff you buy at the auto parts store when dry, but I think they are pouring it and letting it dry. I have found some pourable versions, but they will not withstand the fuel and temperature inside the engines. It takes some practice, but I can get the regular stuff pretty smooth, and especially on .21's.
If anyone out there knows of a liquid type RTV that will withstand fuel and temperature, lets here it.

If anyone out there knows of a liquid type RTV that will withstand fuel and temperature, lets here it.

GE RTV 116 seems to work. silicone is inert to most chemicals anyways and the flowable 116 can withstand temperature up to 500F after curing. the only concern i have is the hardness, wish they make it higher than 28A but it work as is.

GE RTV 116 seems to work. silicone is inert to most chemicals anyways and the flowable 116 can withstand temperature up to 500F after curing. the only concern i have is the hardness, wish they make it higher than 28A but it work as is.

The problem is not the heat, but the adhesion to the metal. Most silicones do not withstand our fuel.

I'm using the same stuff that Uriah is using (thanks for the tip a long time ago Uriah ) and it holds up great.
The way I get it modeled and smooth, is to take the rounded end of a medium size zip tie, spit on it and smoothen out the silicone the way I want it. Works pretty good.

You have to make sure that the surface inside the intake window of the crank is absolutely clean (break cleaner) dry and slightly rough/sanded, then the silicone will have excellent adhesion

The problem is not the heat, but the adhesion to the metal. Most silicones do not withstand our fuel.

I'm using the same stuff that Uriah is using (thanks for the tip a long time ago Uriah ) and it holds up great.
The way I get it modeled and smooth, is to take the rounded end of a medium size zip tie, spit on it and smoothen out the silicone the way I want it. Works pretty good.

You have to make sure that the surface inside the intake window of the crank is absolutely clean (break cleaner) dry and slightly rough/sanded, then the silicone will have excellent adhesion

He's not talking about the heat tolerance being the problem. He's talking about the hardness so it doesn't deform under the rotation of the crank.

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