This next photo is an establishing shot of the access door we are about to look into. It's the white door immediately to the left as you enter (at left in this photo)...

Now, looking through that access door, you can see the converter sits right up against the wheel-well...

Pulling back a bit, you can see the PD4645 circuit board that I attached to a scrap of wood and glued (epoxy) to the wheel well. You can also see the converter in this photo, at the right, below the furnace at the floor...

The circuit board has a little LED that blinks at different rates to indicate battery charge status.

This looks to be the perfect replacement for the stock converter. A few questions:
Does the fan always run, or does it shut down when the battery is done charging?
Do you know if the 35 amp version is any smaller? It's only $15 less.
The original had a battery, off, shore power switch. How did you duplicate this function?

This looks to be the perfect replacement for the stock converter. A few questions:
Does the fan always run, or does it shut down when the battery is done charging?

I have to admit my hearing is not the greatest. I've worked around fan noise for nearly 30 years. I'm missing high frequencies in my hearing range. Now, having said that, I haven't heard any noises from the converter/charger so far. I did see one the fans running (there are two fans), before I put the vent cover on. It was silent.

I've slept in the camper with my wife and two children with shore power charging the battery and there were no complaints of any noises coming from the converter/charger. However, that could just be that there was a lot of nature-type noises (frogs, crickets, etc.). That is to say, I would not be surprised if somebody else reported that these things actually do make noise.

Quote:

Do you know if the 35 amp version is any smaller? It's only $15 less.

According to this page, all three of the 4600's have the same dimensions.

Quote:

The original had a battery, off, shore power switch. How did you duplicate this function?

Can you explain the switch better? I didn't do anything extra. I just wired it all up. There's no switch. The converter charger just does the right thing. If shore power is not connected, the 12V circuits are supplied form the battery. If shore power is connected, the 12V circuits are supplied from the converter and the battery is charged. The PD46xx circuit board has the 12V distribution, with blade fuses.

when I changed out my converter, I had the switch originally, so I thought I would leave it in.
My original wiring scheme worked with one problem.
When on AC the converter worked, when on DC the battery worked, Off took out both.
However, because of the placement of the switch and the original fuse(12v)panel, when on AC my battery was not being charged. I had to add an additional switch for a charge line. when I get a chance, I will draw out my wiring diagram.

I have the Pro. Dynamics PD-6921CPA3W2 Converter (under the furnace) in my 1978 Trillium 4500. When I am on shore power, I plugged in my continuity tester to check the polarity of the 115V power in the 3 plugs (table, adjacent to the sink, and fridge). In each test, my very basic tester reported "open ground". I attempted to remove the table plug, to assess whether the ground wire was attached. I didn't want to force it as the wires are really stiff and the whole receptacle assembly is plastic, so I returned it to its original place - for now.

Have you found the same issue?

Also, I have the owner's manual which describes that I should have a 12 volt fuse in the front compartment not greater than 20 amps. I do not seem to have this fuse.

This is great forum, and there is such a wealth of user knowledge. So thanks, and I hope I haven't hijacked this thread.

Scott, check the ground pin on your shore power cord, make sure it's good.
then with the cord unplugged check where it comes in to the converter and make sure the connections are good.
Also first you might want to check the outlet you had the trailer plugged into and see if its ok.
It would be odd for all three outlets to have the same problem, except at a common area, like the converter connection, the power cord, or the receptacle you plug the trailer into

The PD9200 series converters are very quiet. Fan is thermostat-controlled; it runs when the temperature in the cooling fins reaches the switch setting which is, in my experience, not full-time. I have a PD9245 bolted to the back of a Newmark distribution panel. The only problem I had is that the 45amp rated unit provides only the single set of positive/negative terminals whereas the 9260 provides two each. As the 12VDC fuse panel and the battery are simply in parallel without the necessity of a switch or contactor the logical place to branch for both is right at these terminals. My wiring was also complicated by the fact that I wanted to use #6 conductors. Not only are two conductors in a screw lug not kosher; it was a physical impossibility to insert two 6awg conductors. I solved the problem by stripping both leads between converter and battery inside a junction box and side-tapping the leads for the fuse panel mains with bronze split bolts or "bugs" as they are sometimes called.

I'm no electrician and I don't care for extra enclosures where none are needed but I also believe common sense demands that distribution centers should be enclosed with a box which provides knockouts for box connectors or friction tabs to prevent conductors and terminals from parting company as well as covers which reduce the probability of shorting or impact damage to breakers, fuses and terminals and which also prevent bodily contact with live conductors and terminals. As most of what's available for trailer installation and what's already there involves approved enclosures, I don't understand the urge to use a barebones circuit board unless it's a matter of saving a few dollars.

Hi ALLAN NEW member from MANITOULIN ISL. CAN. Looks good I may do the same with my 1978 4500 trilium. And yes I have a 1973 Boller also that I will sell in the spring when finshing the trilium. Would like to see pic. of your finished project as completed. GOOD JOB !! Shermam I wish I could call you before I purchase the same unit you got as I also looked at the inteli 4000 series 4045kr and question if the circut board can come apart to install it wike you did ??? Or place the complete unit in place of side door area you are talking about. My original power unit is working but can not get enough energy to run what I would like to run only 12amp power pack. Thanks for your update ! Sherman And yes I could put this smaller unit that I take out in the 13oo boler.

Hello, i've read through this, thank you for the information, i'm still trying to narrow it down to the proper one. Ive been looking at progressive dynamics and WFCO ones, and theres just so many i'm not sure which one to get exactly.

I have a Trill 1300, replacing my original converter. Heres info/what im wondering.

-I'll be using 2x6volt batteries.

-I don't have any large appliances, just lights, ceiling vent fan, and i'll be charging cell phones/laptops. I'd like to have a some extra power for future upgrades, but don't want to go overkill.

-I'll have to buy a separate inverter still, if you have any recommendations on one as well.

-Is it possible to hook it up so it can charge from the tow vehicle while driving?

-I have a solar panel, will i be able to just wire it directly in some how, or will i need a separate controller for the panel as well?

The main thing i'm confused about is the different product lines, do i need access to this thing on a regular basis? why do they sell models that have the front panel with the door you can open? is there switches i need access too like on my current (1981) converter? i assumed its all automatic.

I guess i need that little remote pendant controller for the progressive dynamics models? not 100% sure what its for.

-Is it possible to hook it up so it can charge from the tow vehicle while driving

I'm no help with the rest of your questions, but I can field this one!

The converter has nothing to do with charging-while-driving. That's a direct connection between your vehicle and the trailer battery. Or, in your case, batteries plural, which I presume you'll link together to make them perform as a single twelve volt battery.

I don't know about your particular Trillium, but many came from the factory wired to be charged this way, which of course also requires a charging line having been installed in the tow vehicle.

That's all I can help you with right now, but I'm sure the guys will be along just as soon as Sunday Football is over!