The exact area covered by Manilva is difficult to define; in part due to the region's hilly makeup and twisting coastline, but also because Spain's marketing men have had little cause to really classify the town. Or is it a resort? Either way, tourism has only recently come to Manilva, followed closely by property investment opportunities. The baby-steps made thus far are encouraging and equally quaint – Manilva's main attractions boast an endearingly naïve quality to them, as if the resort expects holidaymakers and expats fresh off the latest Ryanair flight to be dazzled by an American-style pizzeria and a dusty bar decked out in neon and red leather.

But then tourists are often simple folk. That is, simple pleasures are easier to appreciate when on holiday. Who needs sophisticated wine bars and complicated transport systems when you can instead enjoy a simple beer while sat on patio furniture in the sun overlooking the beach? If you're prepared to step back in time and get a great tan in the process, Manilva could be just the place for you.

To understand Manilva, one has to identify its main areas. The town proper is small, situated 3km inland from the coast and located toward the far (western) end of the Costa del Sol, beyond Estepona and a short drive from Sotogrande. Historically, the town grew thanks to agriculture; the hills that surround it proving fertile ground for some of the best grapes found in Spain.

Aside from the town centre, the coastal resort of Sabinillas is also part of Manilva, and is distinctly different. The fantastic beach that lines the town lends it a laid-back air, while the promenade has an air of dilapidation to it, despite being equally rather charming at the same time. Alongside Sabinillas is the quaint fishing village of El Castillo and the rather smart port at Duquesa, which has undergone a swish gentrification in recent years.

The Baños de Heredia – a favoured haunt of Julius Caesar back in the day – is the perfect spot for an early morning dip. Head a few kilometres inland from Manilva, past dense vegetation and a couple of eerily isolated restaurants, veer slightly off road and follow your instincts, and you'll find it. In typically laid back Andalusian fashion, this beautiful natural attraction has no signposts, no safety warnings and no instructions – how you enjoy it is up to you. The cool waters of the dark underground plunge pool may look uninviting, but there's no better way of cleansing your skin of the rich natural mud you smeared on yourself minutes early and allowed to bake hard in the searing sunshine. Free, simple and enjoyable for the entire family, these baths are Manilva's greatest hidden treasure.

Suitably refreshed and smooth of skin, the inviting cafés that line the streets of Manilva serve a delicious array of traditional Spanish breakfasts, snacks and beverages, making them a must-visit before noon. After noon, the beach at Sabanillas is the perfect place for a lengthy spot of sunbathing, while the more energetic have acres of soft sand upon which to practise their frisbee, volleyball or bat and ball technique. Lunch can be enjoyed at the beach edge in any one of the eateries that line the promenade, which include some rather clichéd diners, pizzerias and Italian restaurants. Refreshingly, though, they're invariably fun and homely rather than pretentious and stuffy, making them ideal for families or groups of young friends seeking a fun-filled, laid-back meal.

Later, a trip to Duquesa for the boutiques, boats and beautiful people is a must, before returning home for a well-earned rest. Home in Manilva could be anywhere: the swish apartments by the port boast great views but an even greater price tag. At the other end of the scale, a small flat or townhouse in the heart of Manilva town will be affordable and authentic, if a little lacking in style and some home comforts.

Almost nobody from outside the town will head to Manilva for a night out. Its daytime attractions and charming and diverting but, come sundown, most visitors will have headed back to whence they came. Which is a shame, because the quirky bars that line the promenade have cheap drinks, cheesy music, garish décor and a vibrant atmosphere – pretty much the perfect ingredients for a throwaway night out or two.

Duquesa has some late night venues, but they're a little soulless and overpriced. Again, for the complete opposite, the tavernas and bodegas that are dotted around the town centre of Manilva are intriguing, if only for the revealing glimpse they offer into a traditional night out, Andalusian style. In the first week of September, Manilva's celebrated Muscatel grapes get their very own festival, complete with grape trampling, song, dance and, of course, copious amounts of wine intake, so be sure to pay it a visit.

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