We had big plans today, but big plans sometimes turn into little plans. Studly and I were going to go to Ozone and knock off 15 climbs today. That didn't happen, other things did.
We added two other climbers to the mix, which I didn't mind. The more the merrier is what I say.

We were going to climb at Beacon Rock, as two parties of two and then Tim announced that he forgot his climbing shoes. The first time in 30 years. Now the strongest climber was bumped down to the weakest in our party (his words not mine). Tim is a 5.12 crack climber and is a really serious climber and mountaineer. I was going to be climbing with him. Now we needed to come up with another plan.

Scott PetersonStudly and The Fuzzy on the decent after climbing the Southeast Corner at Beacon Rock.

We decided that we would have Studly lead Young Warriors, then belay The Fuzzy up, then Tim and I would follow on the same rope. I would tie into the middle of my 70 meter rope with a butterfly knot and then Tim would tie into the end. I would make it to the belay anchor before Tim started climbing and then I would belay him while The Fuzzy belayed Studly on the next pitch.

Scott PetersonThis is the view from above The Norseman toward the east and Bonneville Dam

Studly started out and immediately found the climbing to be really slippery. We yelled up put in more gear. Beacon Rock had not dried out from the last rain storm. He got to the belay anchor at the top of the first pitch and decided that Young Warriors was too wet to continue climbing. Thanks Studly for the up close and personal assessment of the condition of the rock while lead climbing. Nicely done dude!

Scott PetersonAnother sunset looking west from the trail to the top of Beacon Rock.

So the plan changed again. The Fuzzy would follow Steve and clean the gear and then they would rappel off. Tim and I wanted to check out Windsurfer a crack climb that goes at 5.10b. This route is a Beacon Rock classic. It is one of the routes I used to teach myself to solo aid climb. I have aided it three times and top roped it once. I had hoped to lead climb it free by the end of this season.

Tim and I looked at the crack and it was dry and in the sun. Tim volunteered to lead it in his tennis shoes. He set up an alpine aider with two 24 inch slings girthed together, and one single one on a carabiner. This was so the if he needed to aid climb he could.

He grabbed the rack and started off. I belayed him in awe as he made almost all of the moves free. Every once in a while he would ask for tension on the rope as he placed a piece of gear. He apologized for taking so long. I told him he was doing great. I am not sure I could have led it any faster and this guy was doing the climb in his tennis shoes! Stemming, jamming his feet in the crack and just floating up the route. Meanwhile Studly and The Fuzzy showed up and announced that they were going to climb the Southeast Corner route and made their way back down the trail.

He got to the top and finished that section totally free. Now it was my turn. He pulled up the slack as I tied into the rope. I was now on belay and I started up. Jamming my hands and feet in the crack. At times there were perfect fist jams and others perfect slots for open hand jams. I found good back steps and stem moves to rest as I moved up and cleaned the gear Tim placed.

I got most of the moves clean with out hanging on the rope. I fell off twice and managed to pull up on top of the pillar after climbing up for 120 feet. This climb is intense and sustained. I love this kind of climbing. It is strenuous and demands stamina, endurance, and patience.

I say patience because you have to rest to allow yourself to breath and work your feet up and not flail. If you flail you fail. When panic or frustration take over your not climbing anymore. At least your not moving up. Up is the goal and it takes working at staying calm.

Standing on top of the pillar I congratulated Tim on a nice lead and he gave me a fist bump for my effort following him up and cleaning the gear. It was a great day. Now I am at 54 climbs out 100. Today was not about the numbers it was just good climbing with great people.