And what might be some of those things you would not want to put oil on??
And lets get one thing clear CLP is not the best choice for a bolt lube.
I fall back on the old rule of if it rotate oil it if it slides grease it. Now that doesn't hold true for every instance butI think a lot of what is going on with guns and these wonder lubes is over use. My AR's BCG is greased it the right places and not heavily. everything else gets a drop of oil outer surfaces get wiped down with an oily rag doused with a rust preventative.
Every weapon I own is treated the same way.
Now you guys can do what you want I'm not here to bash Frog lube in any way, shape, or form. but at $30 a bottle I'll stick with oil and grease. At $30 a bottle it better show a dramatic and marked improvement immediately. And Non toxic is not a benefit it just means it's made from something that won't work as well as conventional oils and solvents.

Yeah, but apparently a ton of guy like to clean & lube their guns in bed. Their wives/gfs like FL!

Yeah, but apparently a ton of guy like to clean & lube their guns in bed. Their wives/gfs like FL!

Ok sure I'll go with that??? To each there own. I kinda like a smelly garage... Keeps the women folk out...

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tujungatoes

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

Went to the range for the 2nd time since trying FL. My conclusion: don't knock it until you try it. Used it on a P22, which are known to be finicky, and had one FTF over a few hundred rounds. I'm pleased.

You can buy all the hip new whizz bang stuff. I've been a machinist tool and die maker for quite some time and in a industry that relies on proper lube we don't get many new fangled products to try as this industry is brutally honest and has a very educated bunch of people doing the work. Trying to pass of some relabeled BS ain't gonna fly.

The biggest thing to come along in the oil industry in general is synthetics.
The biggest thing to come along in the Gun oil industry is the flavor of the week.
When everyone figures out that plain old dino juice is fine and synthetic dino juice is better you can buy that stuff by the gallon for what 8 oz. of some whizz bang gun oil goes for.

From a purely scientific stand point you want three to four properties in your gun oil.
1. Lubrication. all oil does that to varying degrees
2. Anti Oxidants, Rust inhibitors.
3. Resistance to temperature change
4. Water resistance if needed.

That's it. You don't need some covalent bond to the steel or Ionic polarization.
That last one is funny as there was a lube years ago sold as being a polarized lube. ALL petroleum oils are polarized thats one of the reasons they can get as much energy out of oil as they can. But that's another thread.

So back to the original four properties we require for gun oils. Think about it, what oil has great lubrication properties has anti oxidant properties, Resists changes in properties due to temperature changes. Good old Hydraulic oil.
Now Compressor, Turbine oil, and a good grade of Hydraulic oil will all fit the bill perfectly and you can buy a gallon of it for $10 or less. and up to $30 for the High end turbine or compressor oils. So for $30 a gallon your 4 oz bottle of whizz bang gun oil that's 5$ to $7 a bottle would cost you a whopping $.93 a bottle or $7.50 a quart.

Yeah Know what 3 in one oil is made from?? Hydraulic oil with added corrosion inhibitors and some scented oil to make it smell unique Thats it.

Now if you must have the best in water resistance or cold temp operation then you need to look at a synthetic. But this stuff is not as complicated as they try to make it out to be.

I discovered that a few drops of the same synthetic Amsoil 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil I have been using in my truck works wonders on reloading press rams and other stuff that needs a drop of oil. So I loaded a 35cc syringe with an ounce of it and stuffed it in my shooting box. I have yet to wear out a fill of the stuff in the truck, with each oil analysis coming back from the lab stating it was still good to go, so it ought to work on a low mileage rifle.

The other thing I found out is that a tube of good old white lithium grease is still the premium stuff for most applications. Couple of bucks at the store and even OSH carries it.

kscott/wrangler john: How many of the products that you mentioned are not toxic? For many, that is a big selling point of Frog Lube. I know it is not the best lube, the best cleaner, nor the best rust inhibitor. But it meets the standards required for my weapons in the manner I use them without smelling bad or exposing myself or other to toxic chemicals. That is a huge plus for many. Now, what am I going to do with the rest of the gallon of military CLP I've been running for 15 or so years...

Well, first of all you are talking to a guy that worked around toxic stuff before he was born. Yeah, really! My mother was a shipyard welder she suffered metal fume poisoning from welding galvanized steel. She finally quit when she learned she was pregnant, and gave up smoking and drinking alcohol so it wouldn't harm the baby - me. Then of course, when I was a little kid, my father owned a factory that produced ozone air and water sanitizers. I was exposed to carbon tetrachloride the solvent they used to clean the glass gas discharge neon and argon filled light tubes, mercury that they flashed the tubes with to remove the last bit of air. It was fun playing with the liquid mercury and watching it bead around in my hand. Naturally the place was flooded with ozone, had the aroma of a continual lightening storm only a hundred times stronger. I believe my father thought he was a latter day Tesla.

Worked in the horse business where I was exposed to some very potent counter irritant liniments, one iodine blister that had to applied with a paint brush so you didn't get it on your skin - woe to me if I did. Then there was the ether, yeah the same ether in starting fluid - only the anesthetic variety, mixed as a leg sweat. This I rubbed on by hand, eventually stripping all the fat out of my skin. That stuff would melt most gloves. Then there was the DMSO they tried for awhile, even the fumes from the dauber would absorb into the skin and give me the taste of garlic in my mouth.

Then I worked as a welder for 12 years, taking after my mother, where i was exposed to welding fumes, just like her. Did a lot of MIG Stellite hard facing on bulldozers and scraper blades, stuff had a high boron content that if breathed would cause lung damage or death. Spray painted with polyurethane epoxy marine paint that releases cyanide, and requires a pressurized respirator and isolation suit if you do it correctly - I didn't, just used a filter respirator. Was constantly exposed to lacquer thinner, and acetone.

In my job as a Park Ranger I sprayed various insecticides including Sevin in a giant old Rotomist sprayer to control oak moth larva, and Malathion for fruit flies, and chlordane for yellow jackets, then various herbicides such as 2-4-D, and worse stuff, really appreciated when Roundup came along.

Next I worked as a water treatment plant and wastewater plant operator, lots of exposure to gas chlorine and later sodium hypochlorite. Not to mention the constant exposure to raw sewage and aeration basins.

So, here I am with no ill effects. My suggestion is to not drink the toxic stuff.

Oh and by the way, if you drive a car or truck, that ethylene glycol based coolant is one of the most toxic chemicals around. My neighbor had a cat that walked through a puddle of it on his garage floor, licked his paws and died. So, I use only Propylene Glycol coolant which is biodegradable and very low in toxicity. I also recommend Bore Tech gun cleaning solvents for the same reason, low toxicity and they work really well. Oh, and I gave up bullet casting for using commercially produced cast bullets - when I was a kid I hung around the press room at the newspaper, giant vats of molten Linotype - the old guys warned me about the fumes.

The place I have noticed an improvement with frog lube is my carry gun. Between the cotton from underwear and the normal everyday grit and grime I find that my air compressor now cleans the gun in a very short time. Frog Lube doesn't seem to allow the cotton fibers and drust to stick requiring a solvent clean and relube. The build up of fibers and grime in the spring of the magazine is a lot less with frog lube.

There are a lot of truths in new wiz bang products but some hit home runs. Replacing the magneto with points and coil was good. Replacing points and coils with electronic ignition is better.

I find viscosity is a driving factor in my custom guns that have less clearance and tolerances in them is an important factor.

Being old Hoppies number 9 has a world of memories when I smell the magic elixor. My Dad used #9 and when I smell it a lot of good memories come flooding in.

Colt firearms back in the day used to recommend a coat of automotive type paste wax on the outside of their revolvers. It would protect the finish, was dry and relatively hard and didn't let dirt stick, or water to penetrate. I guess the new synthetic silicone based waxes would work as well if not better. If it works on a clear coat finish exposed to the elements, it's gotta work on a pampered blued firearm. Of course most of newer guns are stainless steel, although most 416R stainless will rust if neglected.

Ive had good a good experience with it so far. I like the fact it doesnt have a strong odor, if anything it smells minty and is non toxic which would be the strong points for me.
Also it bonds well to the metal and is heat activated and makes it easier to clean youer gun after its appplied properly ( after heating the surfaces)

Wrangler
I can say the same thing. My mother worked as a electronics assembler for the IAM union and a hand full of government shops. Electronics assembly with the lead Chemicals she was exposed to in the sixties and seventies would give the EPA a heart attack.

Then there was my career as a tool maker being exposed to heavy metals daily, Hexavalent chromium, Beryllium copper, then the solvents, Xylene, Acetone, Lacquer thinner, 111 TCE, The list goes on.

If they want to live in a green bubble fine with me. But I'm not going tot let the words petroleum products scare me.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tujungatoes

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

yes yes, we've all been exposed to horrible, horrible things and yet somehow we're alive to post about it here so why the whining. as for froglube, like every miracle product, i look upon it dubiously, especially when something comes out touted to be "green" "organic" or some other earth-friendly hippy term i feel compelled to avoid it. people buying hippy crap is what has given that type of people money to launch political campaigns and i feel that they're the ones that have made gun ownership difficult for us. whether or not this chain of events makes sense to anyone else, it does to me and that's why i avoid buying things like this. also, as was said, most things "better" for the environment don't work worth a damn.

yes yes, we've all been exposed to horrible, horrible things and yet somehow we're alive to post about it here so why the whining. as for froglube, like every miracle product, i look upon it dubiously, especially when something comes out touted to be "green" "organic" or some other earth-friendly hippy term i feel compelled to avoid it. people buying hippy crap is what has given that type of people money to launch political campaigns and i feel that they're the ones that have made gun ownership difficult for us. whether or not this chain of events makes sense to anyone else, it does to me and that's why i avoid buying things like this. also, as was said, most things "better" for the environment don't work worth a damn.

this has got to be the stupidest post i seen in a long time geez get over it..

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

The fact that you've been exposed to toxic substances for a long time and not had any ill effects isn't a good argument against being cautious. It is completely logical to try to minimize your exposure to carp that's bad for you. Given the nature of carcinogens and how cancer develops, that one "small" exposure might well have been the tipping point. To be clear I'm NOT saying if you use petroleum products you're going to get cancer, but IMO there's nothing wrong with a healthy degree of risk management.

That said you're probably better off using toxic solvents/oils with proper ventilation and gloves compared to using something like FrogLube with your bare hands then makin' a sandwich... you're still getting lead and other carp on your hands even if the cleaner itself is nontoxic.

__________________
“That rifle on the wall of the labourer’s cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there.” -George Orwell

FL is good at preventing junk to stick and is pretty good at lubrication, unless its cold since it turns into a paste until the gun gets warm. The issue I have with it is with rust. I cleaned and put a fair amount of the liquid (but when it's cold it more like the paste) on my shotgun and when I took it out a couple of weeks later some rust had developed on the bolt, barrel and carrier latch.

Placed an order last night. Is there a better method of heating up the parts without using a blow dryer? It seems like it will take forever to get it hot.

Get a heat gun and you can heat the parts quick.

__________________
Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison

The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850)

Firearms - You should never use WD-40 to clean or maintain firearms. WD-40 is hygroscopic and will attract moisture to the firearm which will result in rust.

__________________
Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison

The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850)

Well that's actually correct and incorrect at the same time. See when WD40 is used as a rust preventative it needs to be a pretty heavy coat. Yes it is hygroscopic but thats the point, it absorbs the water and keeps it off the surface of the steel. What happens is when someone just lightly rubs down a firearm with WD40 with just a light coat of it. Then there is not enough oil to keep the water in suspension and it will rust.
There are much better products out there then WD40 to prevent rust on firearms. I use it but my guns never sit longer then a month or two with out being wiped down again.

That is just one more reason that you need a specific product for a specific job.

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tujungatoes

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

Pretty sure the stupid part of the post was the attempt to connect buying a safer firearm lubricant to buying hippy stuff that supports campaigns against guns. Kinda taking a stretch to get there. Sure everything is unsafe in some quantity, but not everything is "anti gun hippy stuff". Lol

All I can say is that Froglube stopped rust in its tracks on my reloading press. Rust has been fairly absent from all my guns, except when I discovered the slightest rust spot underneath the grips of my stainless steel revolver.

Maybe the paste works better than the liquid?

As far as WD-40 goes, I only have used it on door hinges, to loosen rusty bolts, and to treat some tools. And I douse them in it. Doesn't work long term as protection, but opens up moving parts well.

Just a FYI the person who invented Froglube was a OFFICER IN THE U.S. NAVY S.E.A.L.s while he was still in the S.E.A.L.s. He was looking for a better way to protect their firearms from corrosion and preventing the lubricant from washing out and gunking up when submerged for long periods.

The product was NEVER ment to be green or enviro friendly it just turned out the best formula was a organic wax type lubricant. Talk about not even close to a Hippy product that supports anti-gun groups.

Froglube even when it gets cold and turns solid like a grease it still very effective, melting it after the first time it was already applied to a warm clean surface is not needed (the only reason would be it bothers you to see it solid).

While some of you have spent most of your time in toxic waste dumps and do not have 3 arms is very fortunate ...... it does not mean that people should not use products that are the least toxic because not everyone has super DNA.

Well that's actually correct and incorrect at the same time. See when WD40 is used as a rust preventative it needs to be a pretty heavy coat. Yes it is hygroscopic but thats the point, it absorbs the water and keeps it off the surface of the steel. What happens is when someone just lightly rubs down a firearm with WD40 with just a light coat of it. Then there is not enough oil to keep the water in suspension and it will rust.
There are much better products out there then WD40 to prevent rust on firearms. I use it but my guns never sit longer then a month or two with out being wiped down again.

That is just one more reason that you need a specific product for a specific job.

I'll have seen firearms that were drenched in WD40 badly rusted a few days later.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

__________________
Oppressors can tyrannize only when they achieve a standing army, an enslaved press, and a disarmed populace. -- James Madison

The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -- Samuel Adams, Debates and Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, 86-87 (Pearce and Hale, eds., Boston, 1850)

I'll have seen firearms that were drenched in WD40 badly rusted a few days later.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

Well I spray down my magnetic chuck with it after I use my grinder and I have never seen rust develop on it surface except when I forget to spray it down.
Like I said there is better stuff out there to use the WD40 but its not as bad as people try to make it out to be.

Gunsmithdan
My intent here is that with the proper precautions a conventional oil is just fine to use. This means washing your hands before and after servicing your firearms. Servicing them in an area that doesn't come into contact with a food source. And has good ventalation. This should be done with frog lube as well.
There is lead in copper, steel, aluminum, brass, and other metals that you are in contact with on your firearm. We won't get into the crazy crap they put in your glock frame as a flowing agent to mold the damn thing. Nor the chemicals used in the thermal set resins used on AR hand guards.
I just think its a huge over reaction. We could go back to using bear fat and olive oil????

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tujungatoes

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

The only stuff I heard about it was really negative in how it was snake-oil. I think there was once a thread around here started for a gun parts hall of shame and frog lube came up in it too.

I use that Mil-7 pro stuff and it seems to work nicely. Casey birchwood GUN BARRICADE apparently works well for preservation and normal lubing and all. Apparently they sprayed it all over my deagle before they shipped it back to me and it had a nice scent too. Good luck.

Yup I guess I Was one of them born every minute... I love my frog lube,,, I have been using a few different things and this one seems to work the best so far.. And love the smell... No worries abotu spilling in the house and cleaning in the house,, And if you run out of food to eat just spread it on some bread.....

Well sheeeit. If you can spread frog lube on bread and enjoy that meal then that is a good thing to have cause there aint much in the way of foods/gun preserves. Well that said, maybe I should rub some of my sopapilla cheesecake on my operator and see how it holds up. I think if I coat my shotty with honey it might prevent rust, but then I will have a whole nother issue to deal with once I get out in the forest...

Well sheeeit. If you can spread frog lube on bread and enjoy that meal then that is a good thing to have cause there aint much in the way of foods/gun preserves. Well that said, maybe I should rub some of my sopapilla cheesecake on my operator and see how it holds up. I think if I coat my shotty with honey it might prevent rust, but then I will have a whole nother issue to deal with once I get out in the forest...

The real funny thing is watching all the tacticool guys jump all over something that might be remotely tied to the teams. I'd say something but someone's kid might be reading. Ill just shake my head in disbelief

__________________

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels

Dick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tujungatoes

That guy is a hack. He worked on one of my ak's and now the damn thing only shoots .50 cal bullets.

The above statement i consider a term of endearmentNeed prints for your build? Need reference materials for Gunsmithing projects, Click Here
I fear that even though as tough as life has been for me I have only begun to pay for my sins.Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered !

It's good stuff, like Gunsmith Dan said "It's not like a grease that you put on and leave on" I love that i don't have to leave a "wet" coat of this stuff on my guns.

Hell, sometimes i just coat the parts and leave them in direct sun (when it's hot enough) for a few minutes....that's plenty long, then a quick wipe and back to the safe. I've never left a wet coat on the exterior and i've NEVER had any rust issues.

I do leave a bit of a wet coat around the chamber where soot begins to form after a long day of shooting... In doing so, you can just wrap a paper towel around your finger (i use the blue shop towels) when it comes time to clean and it will almost completely lift all of the soot right out. Really cuts down on time spent cleaning.

I haven't used "gun scrubber" or any harsh solvents since i've been using Frog Lube. I also noticed that my Walther P22 was super finicky about ammo... It is recommended that you use the higher power stuff not the bulk federal or winchester 22LR ammo... Anything less and it won't blow the slide back far enough to eject the spent round (not all the time but enough for it to be annoying). On this particular pistol (mine) with frog lube... No feed failures! No frog lube... 1 or 2 feed failures with every mag.

Get a small bottle of the liquid and the paste, you'll find you may like one more than the other.

Just a FYI the person who invented Froglube was a OFFICER IN THE U.S. NAVY S.E.A.L.s while he was still in the S.E.A.L.s. He was looking for a better way to protect their firearms from corrosion and preventing the lubricant from washing out and gunking up when submerged for long periods.

The product was NEVER ment to be green or enviro friendly it just turned out the best formula was a organic wax type lubricant. Talk about not even close to a Hippy product that supports anti-gun groups.

Froglube even when it gets cold and turns solid like a grease it still very effective, melting it after the first time it was already applied to a warm clean surface is not needed (the only reason would be it bothers you to see it solid).

While some of you have spent most of your time in toxic waste dumps and do not have 3 arms is very fortunate ...... it does not mean that people should not use products that are the least toxic because not everyone has super DNA.

Yes, and the neurologist that developed frontal lobotomy into a popular procedure was Dr. Antoino Egas Moniz, who won a Nobel prize for his work in 1949. Doesn't make the procedure medically or morally correct. At least with Frog Lube all we have to worry about is rusty stuff. Excuse me I gotta craving for a tuna sandwich gotta run.

Yes, and the neurologist that developed frontal lobotomy into a popular procedure was Dr. Antoino Egas Moniz, who won a Nobel prize for his work in 1949. Doesn't make the procedure medically or morally correct. At least with Frog Lube all we have to worry about is rusty stuff. Excuse me I gotta craving for a tuna sandwich gotta run.

How do you know it rusts with frog lube you ever try it ...
It funny that people who neer try it seem to be an expert on it..

this rf85 stuff is pretty cool. love it on my rifle . but its weird cleaning my ar with only soap and water. going from scrubbing an m4/16 with clp to cleaning my own personal rifle with water is mind blowing .

this rf85 stuff is pretty cool. love it on my rifle . but its weird cleaning my ar with only soap and water. going from scrubbing an m4/16 with clp to cleaning my own personal rifle with water is mind blowing .

I've been using Hoppes 9 for 25+ years to clean my weapons. It works not only as a good cleaner, but as nice aftershave. And yeah, don't get it on anything that you value. It will eat the finish off of your weapon.

__________________
Death is the solution to all problems. No man - no problem.

FrogLube was founded by CAPT Larry Lasky, US Navy SEAL (ret), who spent the past 32 years in service to the United States Special Operations Command, Naval Special Warfare and to the U.S. soldiers, sailors, airmen and marines whose gallant performance he attributes to every success on any mission and on any battlefield he has served.

Quote:

Originally Posted by uxo2

Yes i have tried it.
and i have both paste and liquid.

as for the new thing to come along your right.
Slip2000 EWL & SUPER LUBE grease..