Monday, July 31, 2006

Puglia is one of the most important wine producing regions in Italy, and you may be familiar with the wines without knowing it: Though Puglian wines long had a reputation among connoisseurs of being powerful and rustic, and therefore not something one would necessarily want to drink, winemakers from more esteemed Italian and French appellations considered them to be just the thing with which to bolster more renowned wines if they need a little push. And, alas, tank trucks (and ships) still quietly depart Puglia directed to points north.

However, things are changing, and a steadily growing number of producers are turning their attention to quality rather than quantity, and putting their names on their bottles with pride.

Rivera, a winery north of Bari that was founded in the early 1950s, has been one of the leaders of this Renaissance, and from a frankly surprising direction.

Their first truly successful wine was a Rosé, and it continued to be their top seller until the 1980s, when it was eclipsed first by the whites then in vogue, and then by the reds of the 90s that continue to be the most popular wines today. To make a rosé one must of course have red grapes, and Rivera thus also made a number of Reds in addition to their popular rosé: It was custom in the 50s, says Sebastiano De Corato, to make a basic red wine, and a selection of the same name, labeled Stravecchio or Riserva Speciale or some such, and that's what they initially did, using the word Stravecchio. When the Castel del Monte DOC was established in 1971, Sebastiano's father and grandfather decided to rename their Stravecchio Il Falcone in honor of Frederick II Barbarossa, who, in addition to building the nearby Castel Del Monte pleasure palace the Appellation is named after, was an ardent falconer who even wrote a treatise on the subject.

The vineyards used to make the Stravecchio were initially planted with a traditional mix of Nero di Troia and Montepulciano D'Abruzzo, the ratio being three rows of Nero di Troia, which provides power and force, per row of Montepulciano, which provides softness and elegance. The first vineyards were trained in the Alberello style, as shrubs, and the first three wines poured in the course of this vertical were made from vines trained this way. Subsequently, Rivera replanted their vineyards to a density of 4000 vines per hectare using the cordon spur pruning system, and divided the varietals by vineyard. In terms of yields, though the Castel del Monte DOC allows up to 140 quintals per hectare (and some producers interested in quantity obtain considerably more), Rivera limits yields to 110 quintals per hectare; though this might strike someone used to more northern Appellations as high, it is actually quite acceptable considering the intensity of the Puglian summer.

Their winery notes have allowed them to trace the evolution of the wine from a technical standpoint, seeing exactly which vineyards went into the wine, and seeing how the cellar technique, which was initially primitive, has evolved.

The Wines

Rivera Rosso Stravecchio 1950This is the first vintage produced. Garnet ruby with pale onion skin rim. The bouquet is unusual, and very much alive, with brandied cherries mingling with oatmeal hints of maple candy, underlying leafy underbrush and toasted hazelnuts. Swishing brings up alcohol and dried flowers; mingled with greenish leather and balsam. Quite interesting. On palate it shows its age, with rather tannic berry fruit supported by quite a bit of acidity and an abundance of alcohol, and it flows into a long greenish tannic finish. The tannins keep it alive, though they are in large part drawn from stems, which -- according to the winemaker's notes that they still have for all their vintages -- also ended up in the vats, and are therefore greenish. Indeed, very much alive.1 star

Rivera Rosso Stravecchio 1960Pale brownish garnet ruby with brownish onionskin rim. The bouquet is musty, with a pungent mix of wet underbrush and toasted hazelnuts, supported by a fair amount of acidity, and some wet bark. Obviously old. With swishing the alcohol emerges to a greater degree, and there is also some tingly spice. On the palate it's aged, with a fair amount of acidity supporting some tannins that again have a stemmy greenness to them. Though not dead it's less alive than the 1950, and this is likely due to vintage variation.1 star

Rivera Rosso Stravecchio 1967Garnet ruby with brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is tart, with sour cherry supported by acidity and leaf tobacco mingled with wet oak leaves. On the palate it's lively, though clearly aged, with quite a bit of acidity supported by tannins that have a tongue-scraping burr to them, and lead into a long tart tannic finish that has dusky overtones. It's clearly elderly, but alive, and has a certain grace, though in a rather up-front way. Direct, and this is the tannic structure making itself known.1 star

These vintages were fermented in cement, and since they were very tannic, in part because Uva di Troia simply is tannic, and in part because the stems went into the vats as well, they were aged for a number of years -- 5 or more -- before going into bottle. They didn't macerate much because of Uva di Troia's tannicity, and because with the equipment available at the time the only way they could avoid excessive tannin accumulationwas to macerate for short times. In addition, Sebastiano says, they had no temperature control; temperatures increased, while the sugars fermented out, and at that point they had to rack.

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1971This is the first wine labeled Il Falcone, and their first use of oak -- 30 to 50 hectoliter Slavonian casks. It's brownish garnet with brown reflections and tawny onionskin rim. The bouquet is frankly acetic, with leaf tobacco and some spice mingled with wet bark and toasted hazelnut. On the palate it's surprisingly smooth and round, to the point that one might not connect the two if tasting blind from two glasses; it has some delicate red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that gain direction from some lacy acidity, and flow into a long clean soft tannic finish with sour berry fruit overtones. The use of wood, and the adoption of new fermenting tanks, which allowed pushdowns and breaking up of the cap, makes a huge difference. Though it's clearly elderly, it does show considerable grace and must have been more inviting in the past.2 stars

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1974Deeper garnet ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate at first swish, with some dried flowers, which gain direction from some sour acidity and toasted hazelnuts with peppery overtones and some wet leaf bitterness. Not much fruit; the odors are more tertiary, and this is to be expected. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full and quite soft, with fairly ample sour cherry fruit that has some hazelnut tannic overtones and is supported by warm acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and lead into a long savory tannic finish with alcoholic overtones that continue. It's quite alive, though clearly middle aged, and is one of those wines that invites repeated sips. In short, it grew on me.2 stars

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1980This is first vintage with grapes from trellised vineyards. It's deep black garnet ruby with brownish overtones and almandine rim fading into onion skins. The bouquet is elegant, with menthol and raw beef at first sniff, which open with swishing, revealing a fair amount of alcohol, and leaf tobacco, toasted hazelnuts, and underbrush as well; tertiary aromas continue to dominate, and with time menthol grows. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with moderate red fruit supported by clean smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long tannic finish with underlying tart acidity. Still greenish in a way, and has a lot in common with the earlier vintages.1 star

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1988They decided to make the wine easier to drink, and began to use steel tanks for fermentation. The long-term results were less than satisfactory, so they have backtracked, but this wine remains as a testament to the experiment. It's garnet with almandine in the rim, and has a tired bouquet, with dried leaves and some acidity; it seems older than the 80. On the palate it's light, with bright acidity and moderate fruit supported by moderately intense slightly brambly tannins. It's weaker than its older siblings, and has less to say, though Sebastiano says it was more drinkable when it came out.1 star

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1995This was the last vintage made with cement tanks, and the first with small wood -- to avoid overshadowing with oak they bought some used barriques from Champagne houses. The bouquet is interesting, with mint and alcohol mingling with spice and wet leaves. On the palate it's full and fairly smooth, with cherry and red berry fruit supported by some sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a fair burr to them, and flow into a fairly long acidic finish; the overall effect is pleasant in a fairly rustic key (which is shared by its older siblings) and it has a fair amount to say. If you like this style you will like it.2 stars

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 1997Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. A very different appearance with respect to the older wines. In 1997 they began to lay the bottles on their sides, something they hadn't thought to do before then. The bouquet is different too, with hints of plums at the first sniff, and it opens into rich plum fruit with swishing, supported by berry fruit jam, spice, and hardwood ash. Quite pleasant, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a slight graphite burr to them, and flow into a long clean sour berry fruit finish with graphite overtones. Quite nice, with quite a bit going on; by comparison with the earlier vintages it's much more approachable, and as such represents a distinct change in direction. It's also softer than the earlier vintages, with much less acidity, and this may affect its longevity.2 stars

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 2001This is the current release; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite fresh, with red berry fruit laced with plums and berry fruit jam with hints of cut flowers and slight savory overtones. Quite interesting, and it has a lot to say in a fresh, fruit driven youthful key. On the palate it's full and smooth, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have an oaky undertone to them that will fold into the wine with time; it's still a little young but promises quite well, and will be very pleasant to drink in the next 2-3 years. Expect t to age well for at least 5-10 years. Again, much softer and considerably less acidity than in the older wines.90

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva DOC 2002This is in bottle, but hadn't been released. It's impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, and floral, with red flowers and red berry fruit; extraordinary and rather brash freshness of the sort that leads one to think of a starlet in the glass. Youth, in short. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean soft tannins that flow into a long plum finish. Elegant, and will drink well with drier red meats; if you like big smooth fruit driven wines it will be worth seeking out when it is released.

Bottom line: Il Falcone is a very interesting wine, with excellent aging potential, and should you find a recent bottle in your wine shop, you may want to put it aside for a special occasion, even far into the future. Should you instead come across an older bottle, do consider it, because you may have in your hands a very pleasant surprise.

Rivera's Other Wines

The above vertical took place in the fall of 2005. At Vinitaly (April 06) I had occasion to taste through Rivera's wines, and was much impressed; quality was uniformly high. They're imported to the US by Bedford.

Rivera Marese Bombino Bianco Castel del Monte DOC 2005 Lot LF54AMBombino is an autochthonous varietal; the wine is pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections, and has a rich bouquet with pleasant floral accents mingling with heather, deft lemon blossom acidity, and a mixture of rosemary and sage. Quite fresh. On the palate it's it's graceful, with bright very tart renette apple fruit (renettes are Italian baking apples) mixed with lemon and supported by deft citric acidity that flows into a long lemony finish. Quite deft, in a warm slightly aggressive key, and will work very well as an aperitif with fish-based pasta dishes and risotti, or fish tout court, including richer things such as fried fish. Expect it to hold well 2-3 years, and drink quite quickly.2 stars.

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel Del Monte DOC 2005 Lot F54DMPale orange rose with brilliant salmon reflections. The bouquet is closed -- it was freshly bottled -- though swishing did bring up some red berry fruit with heather from a cut field. Very young, and still developing. On the palate it's light and deft, with pleasant raspberry fruit that gains body from glycerin and some soft tannins , while direction comes from lively raspberry acidity that flows into a clean sour raspberry finish. Pleasant, and will be quite nice with hearty fish-based pasta dishes or richer risotti that require a little more body; it will also be nice with pasta salads and similar at a cookout, or grilled fish, and because of the deftness of fruit and relative lack of tannins it will also be a nice bet with spiced Oriental dishes. It's a touch too acidic to be drunk far from the table, but with foods it will go very fast.2 stars

Rivera Rosé Castel del Monte DOC 2005This is slightly deeper salmon pink than the Pungirosa, with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is also richer than the Pungirosa's, with riper raspberry fruit that has more pulp, and is supported by some heather and deft underbrush as well. On the palate it's full for a rosé and quite round, with ample elegant raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity that flows into a long raspberry finish with warmth and some brambles. It's more powerful and a little more settled than the Pungirosa, at a cookout or picnic featuring fish, or with pizza or lighter pasta dishes. Expect it to drink quickly.2 stars

Rivera Rupìcolo Castel del Monte DOC 2004Lot E643DUEThis is a 70-30 blend of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Nero di Troia, and is deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with rich red berry fruit supported by fairly intense stewed bell peppers and some greenish overlying spice. If you're used to the international varietals it's decidedly exotic, but also pleasant, and as it opens it gains in intensity. On the palate it's full, warm, and rich, with fairly intense red berry fruit that has harmonious grilled pepper overtones and is supported by ample slightly dusty tannins that flow into a long warm finish with cedary spice and fruit that carry at length. It's quite pleasant, in a slightly aggressive key that is both varietal and youth at work, and will drink very well with succulent red meats, for example lamb (leg too) or a hearty roast. Worth seeking out if you like this more aggressive style, and you can expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Rivera Nero di Troia Violante Castel del Monte DOC 2004Lot LF91FDeep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite elegant, with rich red berry fruit mingled with berry fruit jam -- currants and blackberries -- and supported by deft grilled bell pepper and some peppery acidity, while there are also floral -- violet -- accents that add grace. On the palate it's full, and quite round, with voluptuous forest berry fruit supported by clean grilled bell pepper notes and tannins that have a warm bitter greenish burr, and flow into a long clean slightly tart fruit laced finish. Great depth that's all the more impressive considering how young the wine is; it will drink beautifully with a platter of mixed grilled meats and veggies, or with a succulent stew. Well worth seeking out.88-90

Note: I tasted a prerelease bottle of Violante in the fall of 2005 (you'll find the note below, in the Uva di Troia note) , and found the wine significantly better this time around.

Rivera Triusco Primitivo Puglia IGT 2003Lot E06Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich red berry fruit that has some jammy notes and is supported by warmth and slight cedar mingled with cocoa and hints of underbrush. Quite a bit going on.. On the palate it's full, with powerful slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by considerable warmth and by tannins that flow into a long clean slightly tannic brambly finish. It's pleasant in a fairly rich, slightly rustic key now, but also needs a year for the tannins to fold into the wine, by which time it will have gained considerably in elegance. Now it will drink nicely with succulent red meats and has the structure necessary to age well for many years.2 stars

Rivera Cappellaccio Aglianico Riserva Castel del Monte DOC 2002Lot LE291CImpenetrable black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with some blackberry fruit that emerges, coupled with warmth, but what is most evident is the cedar. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit that rapidly folds into itself, revealing tannic warmth from wood. It's a child of a hotter than normal vintage, and it isn't a letdown, but it's not exciting either.1 star

Rivera Il Falcone Castel del Monte Riserva DOC 2002 Lot LE843LVEDeep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by alcohol and cedar, with underbrush as well to provide definition. On the palate it's rich and smooth with powerful plum-laced red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that do reveal some oaky heritage, and flow into a fairly long clean finish. It's obviously the child of a lesser vintage, but has a pleasing grace to it, and though it won't age long it will hold for another 3-5 years, and I would give it one to get its bearings. Drink it with succulent, not too fatty meats, along the lines of rare roast beef cut thick. In the proper setting it will be quite nice.2 stars

Rivera Puer Apuliae Castel Del Monte DOC 2003Lot E08Poured pyrope ink; the bouquet is quite intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by equally intense warm cedar -- a marvel of concentration -- that is still very young and gives an impression of being between here and there, in transit as it were. On the palate it's equally full and powerful, though there is more fruit, which does balance the oak, though it also gives an impression of vineyard immaturity -- one expects more depth than there is. It will in any case be interesting to follow the wine to its destination, which will be frankly international, and if you like the "gobs of fruit and concentration in spades" style that some of the wine press seems to favor, you will like it. I found myself feeling, on the one hand, that I was looking in on a toddler, and, on the other, that this isn't my style of wine. But I did find it interesting.

2 stars (Note: I also tasted this wine in November 2005 and gave it the same point score, 83, as I did here.)

Saturday, July 29, 2006

A few words about the wines.The Strada del Vino Costa degli Etruschi oversees four DOCs: Montescudaio, Bolgheri, Val di Cornia, and Elba, and also Terratico di Bibbona, which is slated to become a DOC. All of the appellations offer many different wines.

Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:

Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)

Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino

Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon

Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno

Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)

Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yields? 100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.

Cellaring? As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.

The Val di Cornia DOC is a few kilometers south of Bolgheri, covering the Comuni of San Vincenzo, Campiglia Marittima, Suvereto, Piombino, Sassetta, and Monteverdi; much of the appellation is coastal, but it also extends a ways inland.

Val di Cornia Bianco must be at least 50% Trebbiano, and can also contain up to 50% Vermentino, or up to 20% of lesser white varietals including Malvasia del Chianti, Ansonica, Biancone di Portoferraio, Clairette (an interesting varietal imported from France in the Napoleonic period, which contributes nicely to the bouquet), Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Grigio. In addition to the basic Val di Cornia Bianco there are Val di Cornia Vermentino and Val di Cornia Ansonica, both of which must contain at least 85% of the principal varietal.

Val Di Cornia Rosato and Val Di Cornia Rosso both must contain at least 50% Sangiovese, and can also contain up to 50% Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, or, if the winemaker so desires, up to 20% of other authorized red varietals, for example Syrah, Petit Verdot, or Giacomino, a strictly local varietal. A number of producers also make a Rosso Riserva, and there are several other red wines as well.

Val di Cornia Suvereto must contain at least 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, and up to 50% Merlot, with lesser percentages of other red varietals.

Finally, there are two passiti, Val di Cornia Aleatico Passito, which is red, and Val di Cornia Ansonica Passito, which is white.

Though people have been making wine in the Val di Cornia for centuries, it was primarily for local consumption until well into the 1980s, and what I recall from that period was powerful and frankly rustic.

Emphasis on quality came in the late 80s and early 90s, and as is often the case there were a couple of trailblazers, while the other producers followed haphazardly. Even though everyone has by now made great strides, some are more expert than others -- there's no getting around it -- especially when it comes to compensating for the vagaries Mother Nature throws vintage by vintage. As a result quality is uneven across the Val di Cornia, and this problem can be exacerbated by the variability of the blend making up the wine: A producer who chose to plant late-ripening varietals will be penalized by a cooler summer, while his neighbor who planted early-ripening varietals will be equally penalized in a fiercely hot dry summer.

What this means is that in selecting a Val di Cornia you have to know a little about both the vintage and the composition of the wines you're considering.

The Montescudaio Appellation is located a few kilometers inland north of Bolgheri, extending over the comuni of Casale Marittimo, Castellina Marittima, Guardistallo, Montescudaio, Riparbella, and Montecatini Val di Cecina and Santa Luce.

Montescudaio Bianco must contain at least 50% Trebbiano Toscano, and up to 50% other authorized varietals.

Montescudaio Chardonnay, Montescudaio Sauvignon, and Montescudaio Vermentino must contain at least 85% of the primary varietal.

Montescudaio Rosso must be at least 50% Sangiovese, with the remaining 50% other red varietals. In addition to the basic Montescudaio Rosso there is Montescudaio Rosso Riserva, which is aged for a minimum of 24 months, at least three of which in bottle

Montescudaio Cabernet, Montescudaio Merlot, and Montescudaio Sangiovese must contain at least 85% of the primary varietal.

Montescudaio Vinsanto is made by drying the grapes at least until November before pressing them, and fermenting the must for at least 18 months in the vinsantaia; it cannot be released until the fourth year following the harvest and must have an alcohol content of at least 16%.

The same consideration made for the Val di Cornia appellation also hold for Montescudaio.

The Elba DOC covers the communes of the island of Elba. In the past the island was known for Aleatico and Ansonica, both sweet wines made from dried grapes, but during the 20th century many farmers abandoned the rigors of the agricultural life for the tourist industry, which paid considerably better. Now agriculture is making a comeback, and though the total acreage is still less than it once was, quality is on the upswing, and in addition to the traditional wines, producers are also making reds and whites.

Elba Bianco is made from 50% Trebbiano Toscano (locally known as Procanico), Ansonica, and Vermentino.

Elba Ansonica is made from at least 85% Ansonica.

Elba Ansonica Passito is a sweet wine, made from Ansonica raisins.

Elba Moscato is made from Moscato grapes that are allowed to dry before pressing.

Elba Rosso is 60% Sangiovese, up to 40% other red varietals, and up to 10% white varietals.

Elba Rosso Riserva is made from the same varietals as Elba Rosso, and aged for 24 months, 12 of which in wood and 6 in bottle.

Elba Rosato is made from the same grapes as the Rosso, but racked off the skins almost immediately.

Elba Aleatico is a sweet wine made from Aleatico grapes, which are dried before pressing.

Having said all this, a few vintage considerations

Most of the "important" reds, e.g. Superiore and renowned IGT, were 2003 vintage, and therefore it is likely the vintage that will interest you the most.

Alas, 2003 was just as hot and just as dry along the Tuscan coast as it was inland, and created the exact same problems, causing draught stress in many vineyards that either led to extreme overripeness of the grapes with consequent cooked flavors and aromas, or hampered polyphenolic ripening (the accumulation of the components that produce structure and flavor), with consequent greenish overtones and considerable stridency. The wines made from grapes thus affected tend to be quite alcoholic, and also tend to be soft, especially if the grapes overripened and their acidities fell.

Many of the producers who found themselves with these problematic grapes attempted to compensate for Nature's wants with wood -- one really cannot blame them -- with less than satisfactory results: Wood works very well in a supporting role, but here it was thrust into the limelight and simply yielded oaky soft or strident wines.

In short, 2003 was a difficult vintage along the Tuscan coast, and the wines, especially those from top producers that command hefty prices, should be approached with caution. Many suffered the effects of the 2003 summer terribly, and even those that escaped relatively unscathed are softer than normal, and thus better suited to being drunk soon, rather than aged the way one might in a more normal vintage.

The 2004 Rossi (vini d'Annata) display considerably better balance and greater depth than the 2003 wines, and consequently bode well for the 2004 Superiori and IGT wines now being prepared for release next year. I also liked the 2005 coastal wines; though the area didn't entirely escape the cool wet conditions that prevailed inland, it is drier and warmer, and this was good for the wines.

And now, The Wines tasted on April 28 and 29 2006 in the course of the 2006 edition of Castagneto a Tavola

Poggio Agli Scalzi Silente IGT Toscana 2005 This is a VermentinoPale brassy gold with slight greenish accents and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rich, with pleasing floral accents, a mix of wisteria and cut flowers, backed by some gunflint bitterness and deft mineral acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with deft biter minerality and a moderately intense citric acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. It's a bit disjointed on the palate, and going in several directions at once; this could be youth, but it's a tad disconcerting. Drink it with cheese of rich-based antipasti, or flavorful fish dishes.1 star

Poggio Agli Scalzi Pierofosco IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Merlot and SangioveseImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cherry plum fruit laced with airy cedar and some hardwood ash; with more swishing vegetal notes in an asparagus-artichoke key also emerge. International in feel. On the palate it's fairly full, with cherry plum fruit that gains direction from more sourness than I would have expected, while the tannins that provide support display a clear cedary underpinning. It's quite young, and needs another year to get its bearings, though I'd have liked a bit more depth than it displays. Drink it with fairly fatty red meats off the grill, or even with grilled chicken, with its skin.1 star

Castello del Terriccio Con Vento IGT Toscana 2005 This is a Sauvignon BlancPale brassy white with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is bright, and rich, with powerful gooseberry fruit laced with some petroleum and pleasing spice from grape. Nice balance, and if you like the aromas of Sauvignon Blanc you will like it. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright gooseberry fruit laced with some bitterness and bright mineral-citric acidity that carries into a long clean finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with hearty cheese or fish based antipasti, creamy risotti and rich fish-sauce based pasta dishes, and flavorful fish, including fried fish or fattier grilled fish; it will also work well with deftly cooked white meats, including fried meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Castello del Terriccio Rondinaia IGT Toscana 2005 This is a ChardonnayBrassy yellow with bright greenish highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some mineral acidity laced with bitterness and slight hints of white pear and petroleum, and underlying heather that provides a unifying thread. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample mineral laced sour plum fruit supported by a fair degree of acidity, which flows into a fairly long clean finish. It's not quite as tight as I might have liked, but rather spreads out, and settles some; it will in ant case drink well with flavorful fish, and because of the slight bitterness that carries in the finish I might be tempted to serve it with scampi and such as well.1 star

Castello del Terriccio Castello del Terriccio IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Syrah, Petit Verdot, and othersDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections; it's just about poured ink. The bouquet is intense and unusual; the first swish brings to mind a freshly stirred bucket of whitewash, and subsequent swishes bring up some menthol as well. On the palate it's similar, and a bit unusual, with greenish red berry fruit laced with cedar and greenish overtones. It's particular, and is something you should only consider if you like the style.1 star

Sorbaiano Lucestraia Montescudaio Bianco DOC 2004 This is a blend of Chardonnay, Vermentino and TrebbianoBrassy yellow with brilliant brassy green highlights. The bouquet is unusual, with an eye-opening rush of dried apricot and apricot jam laced with peach blossoms and some underlying bitter sweetness; it somehow brings a Picolit to mind, though it's nowhere near as sweet. Interesting, in any case. On the palate it's full, and drier than one might have expected, with warm savory mineral acidity that has unusual balsamic notes and hints of apricot, and flows into a long warm finish that is more of the same, gradually fading. It's quite particular, and one of those wines you will either like very much or not at all; if you're interested in unusual whites, it's certainly worth trying. Drink it with hearty vegetable or fish-based first course dishes, and it might also be nice with cheese or egg based dishes along the lines of quiche.2 stars

Sorbaiano Febo IGT Toscana 2003 This is a MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with violet overtones. The bouquet is quite intense, and frankly oaky, with considerable bitter cedar laced with hardwood ash, and underlying plummy berry fruit jam. The product of a hot vintage. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I might have expected, with sour plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have distinct cedar overtones and flow into a fairly long bitter tannic finish that is also fairly acidic. It's disjointed, and has suffered the heat; because of its acidity it will drink with more succulent red meats than some of its softer cousins.1 star

Sorbaiano Rosso delle Miniere Montescudaio Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Malvasia Nera, and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish cedar notes mingled with ripe berry fruit that is slightly jammy. Fairly direct. On the palate it's full, with bright jammy berry fruit supported by a fair amount of acidity and by clean cedar laced tannins that have greenish overtones. It's the product of a hot vintage, but not overripe thereby, and will drink nicely with succulent meats off the grill at some point fairly soon. I wouldn't age it for long.2 stars

Sorbaiano Pian del Conte IGT Toscana 2002 This is a SangioveseLively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by some menthol and by hints of green leather mingled with pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by deft brambly acidity, and by fairly sweet splintery tannins that flow into a clean brambly tannic finish. It's not long on concentration, though there is some, and has a scrappy feel to it, but is also refreshing and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill or from the roasting pan. You will like it if you like this fairly aggressive style (and not if you prefer smoother softer wines), but you can in any case expect the bottle to go quickly when you set it on the table. I wouldn't drink it by the glass.2 stars

Santa Maria il Barbarosato IGT Toscana 2005 This is a SangiovesePale salmon with bright salmon reflections. The bouquet is bright, and fresh, with lively ripe raspberry that has some mentholated overtones and is supported by some glycerin sweetness as well. On the palate it's fairly light, with mentholated red berry fruit that is supported by some bracing acidity and considerable brambly bitterness that carries into the finish at length. It's quite direct, and will drink well with meat or cheese based antipasti, or with simple pasta dishes; one could also drink it, chilled, at a picnic or cookout. Expect it to go quickly.1 star

Santa Maria Vin Santo Motescudaio Vinsanto DOC 1998 This is a blend of Trebbiano and MalvasiaTawny amber with apricot highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, and penetrating, with walnut skins and rancio mingled with quite a bit of alcohol and some greenish overtones. The overall impression is fairly dry. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly intense walnut fruit that grows with time, to the exclusion of all else, while there is an underlying brown sugar component that mingles with some hints of almond. It's nice, but I'd have liked greater depth than I found; it comes across as fairly direct.1 star

Fontemorsi Via delle Colline 256040 MontescudaioTel 335 7844091

Fontemorsi Rosato IGT Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia NeraBright rose pink with electric rose highlights. The bouquet is bright, with considerable raspberry cherry fruit laced with menthol and supported by abundant peppery spice from grapes, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's bright, and a little smoother than I expected, with fairly intense slightly bitter raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively red currant acidity and by some brambly bitterness. It's direct, but then again rosés tend to be, and will drink nicely with meat or cheese based antipasti, light first course dishes, and will also be nice at a picnic or cookout; because of the power of the fruit and the lack of tannins I'd be tempted to serve it with flavorful Chinese dishes as well, including Sichuan. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Fontemorsi Spazzavento Montescudaio Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Malvasia NeraSlightly cloudy cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and young, with brambly red berry fruit shot through with mint and some balsam; the effect is pleasant and quite fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit that has some graphite shaving bitterness, and is supported by moderately intense smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fruit laced finish that gains depth from graphite bitterness. Pleasant, in an up front direct key; it's fresh, and will drink nicely with simple legume-based soups, red sauced pasta dishes, or quickly cooked meats, especially off the grill.2 stars

Fontemorsi Guadipiani IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and surprisingly fresh at the outset, with violets mingled with plum cherry fruit and fairly intense slightly greenish cedar that gains in strength with time. On the palate it's full, and fairly direct, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins that have a pronounced bitter cedar component from oak, and flow into a long bitter finish. Because of its softness it will drink well with drier white meats served with gravies or similar. Something to consider if you prefer soft wines that display considerable oak.1 star

Tenuta Ladronaia Lenaia Bianco IGT Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino and Trebbiano, late harvested, and is from the proposed Terratico Di Bibbona DOCBright brassy yellow with slightly greenish brassy highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gooseberry and, casting PC aside, sweaty redhead with some underlying spice as well that adds depth. Pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with bright, fairly sweet gooseberry fruit supported by deft sour lemon acidity that flows into a clean citric finish that gains depth from some vegetal underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif, with any sort of antipasto you care to serve, or with flavorful fish or vegetable based first course dishes, and also with delicately flavored fish or white meats; it's just a touch too round for fattier fish, but the slight sweetness will pair nicely with less spicy Chinese, especially Cantonese. Worth seeking out if you like this style.2 stars

Gualdo del Re Eliseo Bianco Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some petroleum bitterness mingled with hints of shellac and some bramble, with underlying acidity as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with languid slightly savory, greenish Regina Claudia plum fruit supported by brambly bitterness that flows into a fairly long sour plum finish with bitter underpinning. It's fairly direct, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with flavorful antipasti, or with flavorful fish dishes.1 star

Gualdo del Re Strale IGT Toscana 2004 This is a Pinot BiancoLively brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with rich butterscotch mingled with sweetness and some greenish notes; we're dealing with oak in a glass, but deft oak, and if you like this in a wine it is nice. On the palate it's full, with moderate mineral acidity that gains smoothness from the oak, which is again quite apparent, presenting as butterscotch that carries through into a long finish. If you like this style you will like it very much, but you do have to like the style.2 stars

Gualdo del Re Eliseo Rosato Val Di Cornia Rosato DOC 2005 Rose with brilliant rose reflections and pale white rim. The bouquet isa bit clunky at the outset, though it tightens with swishing, revealing redberry fruit supported by moderate acidity that has fairly strong vegetalovertones, and underlying hints of sandalwood and mint. On the palate it'smoderately intense, with slightly vegetal red berry fruit supported by sourraspberry acidity and some mentholated notes that flow into a clean acidicfinish. It does clean the palate nicely, and will drink well with quicklycooked meats off the grill at a cookout, or even (when lightly chilled) withfried meats in the midst of summer. Indeed, in this role it would be pleasantlyrefreshing. It won't win at a tasting, but it will drink well at the meal thatfollows.2 stars

Gualdo del Re Eliseo Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese and CanaioloDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit laced with sour berry fruit acidity and some menthol overtones; there's not quite jam, but it does suggest heat somehow. On the palate it's full and round, with powerful red berry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. Deft, and will drink quite nicely with succulent grilled or roasted meats. It's ready now, but will benefit from a year or two of bottle age too.2 stars

Gualdo del Re Federico I Val di Cornia Suvereto Cabernet Sauvignon DOC 2003 This is a Cabernet SauvignonImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with lively cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and black currants mingled with some savory spice and slight greenish accents, which provide nice balance. On the palate it's full and rich, with ample smooth plum berry fruit supported by some sour plum acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. Elegant, and though it is clearly the child of a hot vintage, it also displays considerable depth; because of the spice and warmth, which comes through in the finish, I'd drink it with succulent, not too fatty red meats.2 stars

Gualdo del Re I'Rennero 85 Val di Cornia Suvereto Merlot DOC 2003This is a MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with some cedar and underlying berry fruit and spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich forest berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents that mingle with clean slightly greenish acidity, while the tannins, which are smooth and have a slight cedar overlay, flow into a long clean warm finish. It's deft, in a hot vintage key, and will drink nicely with succulent roasts or light stews. I wouldn't keep it for long, but it is quite pleasant now.2 stars

Gualdo del Re Gulado del Re Val di Cornia Suvereto Sangiovese DOC 2002 This is a Sangiovese.Impenetrable pyrope ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets mingling with black currant fruit, while there is some currant acidity as well that holds it up. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense, fairly dry fruit -- I'd have liked greater depth and richness -- supported by ample cedar laced tannins that flow into a tannic finish. To be frank, the wood has dried it out, and as a result the wine falls flat, revealing mostly oak, and though it is true that the 2002 vintage was difficult, one could have gotten more from it than they did.1 star

Gualdo Del Re Amansio Aleatico Passito Val di Cornia Aleatico DOC 2005 Lot 6062This is an AleaticoDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful sweetness mingled with sandalwood and forest berry fruit; it's remarkably delicate, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full, though not quite as full as I'd have expected, with bright red berry fruit supported by sweetness and clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly loing clean finish; the overall impression is quite deft, and it's very nice, but I found myself wanting a little more richness.2 stars

Il Falcone Falconebianco Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino, Malvasia Bianca, and AnsonicaPale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, and also off -- sulfur and burnt match with savory notes at first swish, and this is the solforosa added at bottling time to stabilize it. The sulfites do blow off, however, and as it airs it begins to reveal vegetal notes as well, mingled with petroleum and some animal notes, in particular wet cat. On the palate it's medium bodied, with vegetal notes and some gooseberry supported by lively citric acidity, and flowing into a fairly long citric finish. It lumbers some, and I'd have liked greater tightness and depth.1 star

Il Falcone Vallin de'Ghiri IGT Toscana 2003 This is a SyrahDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and surprisingly zesty for a 2003, with bright red berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by underlying black currants; the overall impression is quite pleasant and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by ample tannins that have slight cedary overtones, and flow into a fairly long clean fruit laced finish. The palate doesn't quite match the nose, and I found myself wanting greater richness of fruit, though it will drink well with drier roasts.1 star

Il Falcone Boccalupo IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Giacomino, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal notes and some berry fruit, underlying by cedar. On the palate it's full, and richer than I might have expected from the nose, with bright red berry fruit that gains depth and direction from some red currant acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly greenish finish with bright berry fruit overtones. Pleasant, in a large key, and has sufficient acidity to avoid being soft; it will drink quite well with succulent red meats or light stews. I'd drink it sooner than later, because it won't age that well for long.2 stars

Incontri Vignanuova Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Pinot BiancoPale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some mineral notes and slightly bitter herbal overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively peppery mineral acidity supported by some savory honeydew melon fruit, and it all flows into a fairly long savory acidic finish. It's pleasant in a direct key; and quite up front; it will drink nicely as an aperitif with fish-based antipasti, and because of its rather mineral bitterness I would be tempted to serve it with shellfish as well; a dish of spaghetti with clam sauce, or simply stewed clams, might be quite nice here.1 star

Incontri Ildobrandino Val Di Cornia Vermentino DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoBrassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with heather and the herbal notes of a field in summer mingled with some mineral acidity and slight hints of lemon. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral and white berry fruit acidity supported by some bitter notes, which flow into a fairly long clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a direct, up front key; it will drink well with hearty fish dishes, including fried fish or something along the lines of crab cakes. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Incontri Martellino Val di Cornia Suvereto Rosso DOC 2004 This is a SangioveseBlack cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with moderately intense violets mingled with some red berry fruit and slight cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly savory finish. Direct, all told, and will drink well with drier red or white meats.1 star

Incontri Lorenzo Degli Incontri Val di Cornia Rosso Sangiovese DOC 2004 This is a SangioveseLively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and cherry blossoms mingled with some menthol and pleasing berry fruit supported by slight savory accents. On the palate it's full, with bright forest berry fruit supported by deft black currant acidity, and by tannins that have some cedar overtones and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a rather luscious key, and will drink well with drier red meats, or roasted white meats along the lines of turkey breast or pork loin. I'd drink it now to enjoy its freshness.2 stars

Giomi Daniela Corniola Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Malvasia BiancaBrassy yellow with some golden overtones and bright brassy gold reflections. The bouquet has a mixture of savory acidity and herbs, in particular bay leaf, with underlying white pear, that is unusual but not unpleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with ample mineral acidity that gains depth from bitter overtones and flows into a fairly long clean mineral finish. Drink it with fish or cheese based first course dishes, or with moderately flavorful fish or white meats.1 star

Giomi Daniela Solemare Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2005 This is a Sangiovese.Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is pleasant and quite fresh, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively acidity and by deft menthol overtones. Pleasant, and invites further sniffing. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins; I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which is a little flat. In any case, drink it with simple grilled meats or red sauced pasta dishes, and it will also be a nice bet with picnic foods.1 star

Giomi Daniela Rodantonion Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2003 This is a SangioveseDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with some savory balsamic overtones, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by a combination of deft plum acidity and slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit and vegetal finish. A pleasant surprise; it's much more on its toes that I'd have guessed from the nose, and will drink well with succulent, not too fatty roasts or light stews. One could even press it into service with a steak. In short, a nice expression of a difficult year.2 stars

Valdamone Vermentino Val Di Cornia Vermentino DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoBrassy yellow with slightly greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with heather and herbal notes mingled with some lemony acidity and underlying savory bitterness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright mineral acidity that has some lemony overtones and flows into a clean bitter mineral finish. Pleasant enough in a direct key, and will drink well with hearty fish dishes, including fried fish.1 star

Valdamone Valdamone Rosso Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonLively ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and forest berry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity, and by pleasing vegetal overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and by smple sweet tannins that have a slight balsamic burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a direct enough key, and will drink quite nicely with red meats, be they off the grill or stewed. It will age nicely for a few years, but I would be tempted to drink it now and thus enjoy its freshness.2 stars

Valdamone Poggio a'Bugni Val di Cornia Merlot DOC 2003 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and SyrahImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some pencil shavings and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by fairly brisk berry fruit acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean finish. I'd have liked better definition to the fruit, and to the acidity.1 star

San Giusto Bonti Sangiusto Val Di Cornia Vermentino DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoPale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rather pungent, with petroleum and vegetal notes mingled with some mineral acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied and direct, with fairly bright citric mineral acidity supported by underlying bitterness and some petroleum. 1 star

San Giusto Bonti Sassi al Sole Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with metallic notes mingling with some fruit and slight pencil shavings. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with rich black currant fruit that has some greenish vegetal overtones and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins and fairly brisk acidity that keeps it from flagging; given the palate I have a feeling that the nose is a bit behind, and needs a little time to develop -- say, a year. This said, it's pleasant, though it does have some baby fat that will likely never fade completely; and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. It won't win at a tasting, but will work well with what it's served with.2 stars

San Giusto Bonti San Giusto Rosso IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with black currant fruit mingled with some mentholated acidity and deft slightly vegetal citric overtones. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some grilled pepper, and by clean sweet tannins that have dusky graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a fairly long warm bitter slightly balsamic finish. Pleasant, in an international key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, including leg of lamb. I'd drink it sooner than later, though it will hold nicely for 2-4 years.2 stars

Azienda Agricola Bulichella Località Bulichella 131Tel 0565 829 892

Bulichella Toscano Bianco Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoBrassy yellow with greenish reflections and brassy highlights. The bouquet is bright, with honeydew melon and some gooseberry mingled with savory notes and some fairly bright acidity; it's deft. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with pleasing honeydew melon laced with mineral citric acidity and supported by the bitterness of the herbs of a field, and flows into a fairly long clean bitter finish with honeydew melon overtones. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, or with flavorful fish dishes or white meats, and I would also be tempted to serve it with moderately spicy Chinese dishes as well.2 stars

Bulichella Rubino Val di Cornia Rosso Suvereto DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and FrancDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with black currants and some red currant acidity mingled with vegetal overtones that gain depth from some citric acidity. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with ample red berry fruit, primarily black currants, supported by some acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with drier meats, be they white or red. A second bottle may come in handy.2 stars

Bulichella Tuscanino Rosso Val di Cornia Suvereto Rosso DOC 2002This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly vegetal, with greenish notes and not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate fruit supported by fairly scrappy, brambly acidity and tannic structure. It's a child of the vintage, and though pleasant in that context, I wanted something more.1 star

Rigoli Stradivino Val Di Cornia Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino and TrebbianoPale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a pleasing mixture of yellow peaches and slight honeydew melon, supported by mango fruit as well, and some citric acidity. On the palate it's full, with bright citric fruit laced with mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long acidic finish. Direct, but pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif with egg or cheese-based antipasti, and will also drink nicely with flavorful fish, including fattier fish off the grill; I'd also be tempted to serve it with a tasty vegetable frittata. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you may want another.2 stars

Rigoli Assiolo IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a deft mixture of cedar and plum fruit supported by some eye-opening acidity, and by underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful black currant fruit that gains direction from some red currant acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into along bright berry fruit finish with citric overtones. Pleasant, and if you like this big soft on-its-toes style, it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, and one could also serve it with a stew. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.2 stars

Rigoli Magistro Valdicornia DOC 2004 This is an AnsonicaLively tawny amber with apricot reflections. The bouquet is oddly muted; swishing doesn't reveal much more than slight sweet notes and hints of apricot and pear. On the palate it's sweet and full, with powerful dried apricot fruit that leads into a long clean apricot finish. Nice, but I'd have liked greater richness in the nose.2 stars

Graziani Vermentino IGT Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino and Pinot BiancoPale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with gunflint bitterness mingled with mineral acidity and some spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied and direct, with fairly bright gunflint-laced mineral acidity supported by bitter accents that carry into a fairly long acidic finish. It will work nicely as an aperitif or with fairly delicate fish.1 star

Graziani Di Ciocco Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and CiliegioloDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, though not as rich as some, with fairly bright red berry fruit that has slight plumy overtones, and moderate acidity. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some slightly splintery tannins; I'd have liked greater richness overtones the fruit, which comes across as rather empty. It is in any case quite direct, and will drink well with simple foods; you may want a second bottle.1 star

Azienda Agricola Russo Via Forni 7157028 Suvereto (LI)0565 845 105

Russo Pietrasca IGT Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino, Clairette and ChardonnayBrassy yellow with brilliant brassy slightly greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with walnut skins and peach blossoms mingling with some peach fruit and warm acidity that provides depth. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright mineral laced generic white fruit -- there's too much acidity, which does hold it together, to call it peach -- supported by deft acidity that flows into a fairly long acidic finish with bitter overtones. Pleasant, in an aggressive key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with egg, fish, or cheese based antipasti. It will also work well with flavorful fish or quickly cooked white meats, has the acidity necessary to balance fried fish or meats, and I would be tempted to serve it with them in summer. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Russo Ceppitano Val di Cornia Rosso Suvereto DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Canaiolo, Merlotand Cabernet SauvignonDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite young, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some violets, and though it's quick to write it is also pleasantly fresh. On the palate it's light, with lively raspberry strawberry fruit supported by brisk raspberry acidity, and by deft sweet tannins that are fairly light, and lead into a fruit laced finish. It's direct, without a devious bone in its body, and will drink quite nicely with simple foods; it will be perfect at a picnic or cookout, and also drink nicely with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.1 star

Russo Sassobucato IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings forth vegetal notes mingled with some peppery spice. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with full black currant fruit that gains direction from some India ink bitterness and mineral acidity, while the support comes from ample tannins so smooth they seem smaller than they are, and lead into a clean sweet black currant fruit finish that's fairly long. Because of its rich softness I would drink it with flavorful drier meats, either roasted or cooked with moist heat. A pot roast would be perfect.2 stars

Russo Barbicone IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Colorino, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, GiacominoDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and slightly greenish, with vegetal notes mingled with black currant fruit and some cool cedar. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft black currant fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that lead into a clean soft berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more tightness to it and brighter acidity -- citric more than mineral -- but it will drink well with drier meats.1 star

Le Pianacce Diavolino Bianco IGT Toscana 2005 This is a VermentinoBright brassy yellow with lively brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with haunting greenish notes mingled with acidity and slight eucalyptus; the overall impression is one of coolness. On the palate it's languid, with slightly smoky moderately intense mineral acidity supported by some savory notes, which lead into a moderately long bitter finish. It's more direct than I might have liked and lumbers some; drink it as an aperitif or with fish or white meats.1 star

Le Pianacce Taddeo Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with slightly metallic notes that develop into greenish cedar with time, and some alcohol and moderate rather ripe berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with bright forest berry fruit supported by sour plum acidity that keeps it on its toes, and by ample tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into clean berry fruit finish. It's direct, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews.1 star

Le Pianacce Diavolino Rosso IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and GiacominoDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal accents mingling with some spice and slight greenish notes; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample soft berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long finish; I'd have liked better definition to it all, and the fruit is surrendering its leadership role to the tannins, to a degree.1 star

Sapereta Elba Bianco Vigna le Stipe Elba Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Procanico, Vermentino and AnsonicaPale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and some yellow peach with slight honeydew melon. On the palate it's direct, with mineral acidity supported by slight bitterness, and it all flows into a clean mineral finish. It's quite direct, simple even, and will drink well with simple fish dishes or white meats. It's worth noting that simple isn't a defect; it's simply the way the wine is, and this particular wine will accompany foods nicely without getting in the way or drawing attention to itself. You may find it going rather fast.1 star

Sapereta Elba Bianco Vigna Thea Elba Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Chardonnay, Procanico and VermentinoLively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight greenish overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory floral notes mingled with some sea salt and spice; the overall impression is direct. On the palate it's medium bodied and again direct, with gunflint minerality mingled with acidity and some peppery spice that flow into a clean mineral finish. A direct wine that will drink nicely with foods -- fish., but also quickly cooked white meats, and I'd be tempted to break it out with fried foods as well -- and go quite quickly; you might want a second bottle handy.1 star

Sapereta Rosato Vigna Thea Elba Rosato DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese and SyrahPale pink with bright rose reflections. The bouquet is bright, with raspberry fruit supported by strawberry raspberry acidity, and by some sweetish overtones. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense fairly bitter fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and flowing into a fairly long bitter finish. I'd have expected a little more depth from the fruit, which is a bit tight, but it will be nice on a picnic, or with moderately rich meats off the grill at a cookout, and one could also press it into service with fried meats.1 star

Sapereta Vigna Pontecchio Elba Rosso DOC 2005 This is a SangioveseDeep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by alcohol and some greenish overtones, supported by pleasant sour berry fruit spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains direction from citric acidity and is supported by deft sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It's scrappy, and fairly aggressive, in a tomboy key, and will drink quite with simple grilled meats or even fried meats in summer; it's not something to pour when the intellectual wine-snob friend comes calling, but you'll need a second bottle if your friends are the sort who want to enjoy their food with their wine.2 stars

Mola Meridio Elba Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese and AleaticoLively rose with bright rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with rich slightly sugary raspberry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by pleasing menthol overtones. Quite refreshing. On the palate it's light, and zesty, with bright raspberry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity and by some brambly tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour raspberry fruit finish. Pleasing in a lively, zesty key, and will be quite nice at a picnic or cookout, or with rich foods that will profit from lively acidity to clear the palate between bites, for example a platter of mixed fried meats. Expect the bottle to go quite quickly.2 stars

Mola Elba Moscato DOC 2004 This is a MoscatoTawny slightly brownish amber; the bouquet is fairly rich, and quite sweet, with honeysuckle mingled with brown sugar and very ripe yellow peach. Quite a bit going on in a sweet key. On the palate it's full and sweet, with deft apricot fruit that flows into a long sweet apricot finish. It's pleasant, but up front: what you see is what you get, and if you dig for depth there isn't much there. In short, a starlet.1 star

Mola Aleatico dell'Elba DOC 2005 This is an AleaticoDeep ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intoxicating, with a great rush of sweet cut flowers mingled with sandalwood and sugar, with deft underlying dried apricot and plum fruit to hold it all together. A lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with cedar-laced red berry fruit supported by pleasing sweetness, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into along clean sweet sandalwood finish. Quite elegant, with a great deal to say, and if you like sweet wines you will like it very much. Well worth seeking out.90

Ferrari Iris Fonte in Francia Montescudaio Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and SangioveseImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with violets mingled with cedar and some artichoke greenness, all supported by berry fruit jam and spice. On the palate it's fairly full, with ample slightly greenish berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that gain direction from graphite bitterness, and flow into a clean fairly long bitter finish. It's fairly direct, in a big fairly international key, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I found myself wanting greater depth.1 star

Ferrari Iris Penso IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with burnt cork and animal hair mingled with some spice and a fair amount of balsam. On the palate it's quite full, and fairly sweet, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by balsam and slight peppery overtones, while the tannins are smooth and soft; the overall impression is chewy, and brings to mind a gummy candy, almost. The summer got to them.1 star

Ferrari Iris Viburno IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is overripe shading into cooked, with cherry plum fruit laced with fairly intense cedar, with some smoky overtones as well. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with plum-laced fruit supported by plum jam and a fair amount of cedary tannins, while there is some acidity as well, but not much. Heat struck, and it will only soften with time.1 star

Caiarossa Pergolaia IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, slight Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonLively black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual; to be frank the first impression is of a freshly used ironing board, while further swishing brings up some cooked berry fruit and hints of green leather mingled with lacquer. Very young wood, perhaps? On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense slightly bitter red berry fruit supported by tannins that have some splintery overtones, and by moderate acidity that flows into a fairly clean finish. It's fairly direct, and the wood is a little more evident than I might have liked.1 star

Caiarossa Caiarossa IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Sangiovese,Petit Verdot, Alicante, Syrah, MourvedreBlack cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, with violets mingled with jammy red berry fruit that has some petroleum accents, and is supported by an impression of softness and some cedar-laced underpinning. On the palate it's fairly full, with ripe jam laced cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have bitter pencil shaving overtones, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's a bit tannic, and the tannins are rather splintery at present; I'd give it a year or two to get its bearings and soften, and then drink it with succulent red meats.1 star

Caiarossa Caiarossa IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Alicante, Syrah, MourvedreBlack cherry ruby with lively cherry rim fading to hints of orange. The bouquet is bright, with mentholated red berry fruit supported by chewy berry fruit jam and pleasing slightly greenish herbal notes, while there is also underlying cedar to pave the way. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite soft, with fairly rich plum fruit that gains direction from moderate bitter acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that do have bitter oaky accents. It's a little flatter on the palate than I might have expected from the nose, but will in any case drink well with drier roasts.1 star

Marchesi Ginori Lisci Campordigno IGT Toscana This is a blend of Merlot and SangioveseLively cherry ruby with black cherry reflections. The bouquet is fresh and young, with violets mingled with forest berry fruit that gains depth from some berry fruit jam. On the palate it's medium bodied, with pleasant fairly light slightly greenish berry fruit supported by ample tannins that have greenish overtones and flow into a clean fruit laced finish that gains depth from bitterness. It's direct, and young, and while not long con complexity will drink nicely with simple meat dishes, or with red sauced pasta dishes. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Marchesi Ginori Lisci Castello Ginori IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with violets mingling with some savory cedar, and supported by some bitterness as well. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderate red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar. I'd have liked greater depth and roundness to the fruit, which comes across as a touch thin.1 star

Marchesi Ginori Lisci Castello Ginori IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with rich red berry fruit that is ripe, but not overripe, supported by some cedar and by bright almost dried apricot acidity, which is likely due to the heat of the summer, and by underlying cedar and graphite shavings. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with ample plum laced raspberry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that do have some bitter cedar notes, and flow into a fairly long warm bitter fruit laced finish. It's clearly the product of a hot summer, but does manage a certain grace nonetheless, and will drink well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, be they off the grill, roasted, or even stewed.2 stars

Poggio Gagliardo Pulena IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Ciliegiolo, Foglia Tonda, Mazzese, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, SangioveseDeep black cherry r with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit laced with berry fruit jam and menthol; the overall impression is charged, and brings summer warmth to mind On the palate it's full, and rich, with pleasant red berry fruit that has some raspberry overtones and considerable warmth, supported by fairly smooth sweet tannins and quite a bit of warmth, which flows into a long clean fruit laced finish. Pleasant; though the heat of the summer is apparent the wine is neither soft nor overripe, and will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Podere La Regola Via A. Gramsci 156046 Piparbella (PI)0586 698 145

La Regola Vallino Montescudaio Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet SauvignonDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite young, with violets at first swish, followed by the pungency of cut flowers and some underlying spice mingled with alcohol. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly deft, with bright violet-laced plum fruit supported by tannins that are fairly smooth and fairly sweet, though they do reveal some cedar bitterness that carries though into the finish. It's fairly direct, in a clean hot vintage key, and avoids being overripe; because of its softness it will drink well with drier meats served with gravies or sauces.1 star

La Regola La Regola Montescudaio Rosso DOC 2003 This is a Cabernet SauvignonDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with an initial whiff of violets that gives way to jammy mentholated red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with bright mentholated berry fruit laced with berry fruit jam, and supported by clean sweet cedar laced tannins that flow into a long warm berry fruit jam finish with some bitter overtones and a fair amount of alcohol. It's fairly direct, and lumbers some, a result of the heat of the vintage, but also displays a fair amount of elegance, and will drink well with succulent grilled or roasted meats. I would drink it sooner than later, because the freshness it displays will fade with time.2 stars

La Regola Sondrete IGT 2001 The back label says this is made from Malvsia and Trebbiano "following ancient Tuscan tradition," and to be frank one wonders why they don't simply say it's a vinsanto if that's what it is. It's tawny amber, with slightly greenish rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with walnut and rancio mingled with spice and underlying sweetness. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with rich brown sugar mingled with some apricot sweetness, and with clean very persistent dried apricot that's shot through with walnut meats, which continue into a long clean finish. Bottom line: It closely resembles a vinsanto, and is quite pleasant; if you like the style you will like it very much.2 stars

Pagani De Marchi Casalvecchio IGT Toscana 2003 This is a Cabernet SauvignonDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy red berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and supported by a fair amount of cedar, with some underlying pungency as well. On the palate it's full and soft, with bright cherry raspberry fruit that is supported by some deft acidity, and by slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. It has a richness that comes with heat, and directness too, but isn't overripe, and will drink well with succulent red meats, be they roasted or off the grill.2 stars

Podere Aione Etico IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with a fair amount of menthol mingled with red berry fruit and berry fruit jam. Heat. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense bitter berry fruit supported by tannins that have a strong cedar component, and slight underlying sweetness. It's disjointed, and the fruit isn't as present as I might have liked. Drink it with drier meats.1 star

Podere Aione Aione IGT Toscana 2001 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is slightly greenish, with underlying red berry fruit and pleasant spice; the overall impression is fairly young. On the palate it's full, and fairly smooth, with moderately intense rather bitter red berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that have a distinct cedar component, and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. It gives an impression, somehow, of being from young vines; it obviously has the pedigree necessary to stand out, but comes across as immature. I'll be curious to taste future vintages. If it is from a mature vineyard, there's too much oak for my taste.1 star

Felciatello Bibo IGT Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and ColorinoDeep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with considerable grilled bell pepper with slight asparagus overtones, and underlying bright berry fruit laced with acidity. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful vegetal-laced red berry fruit supported by ample smooth slightly chalky tannins that flow into a long clean warm finish. Pleasant, and very much a food wine; it will drink well with red meats, ranging from succulent offerings from the grill through roasts or stews.2 stars

Felciatello Ziro IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Franc and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal notes and some balsam mingled with sea salt and underlying cedar. On the palate it's full, and a bit soft, with ripe plum cherry fruit that could use better definition, and brighter acidity to hold it up, supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have strong bitter cedar overtones. I'd have liked greater complexity and depth, especially in the fruit.1 star

Campo di Sasso Insoglio del Cinghiale IGT Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Petit VerdotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with deep black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with an abundance of black currant fruit supported by violets and berry fruit jam, with hints of airy acidity that give direction and depth. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with plum black currant fruit supported by ample sweet tannins whose smoothness makes them seem smaller than they are, while there is some berry fruit acidity to provide direction as well. If you like big soft wines in an international key you will like it very much, but you have to like the style. Because of its softness I would drink it with drier roasts, or even a pot roast.2 stars

Campo di Sasso Pino di Biserno IGT Toscana 2004 Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with balsamic warmth laced with cedar, savory notes, and some underlying warmth. On the palate it's big and soft, with ample black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a distinctly cedary component, and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. Too much wood, for my taste, though if you like the style you will like it.1 star

Fattoria di Paltratico Paltratico IGT Toscana 2003 This is a SangioveseDeep ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is oaky, with quite a bit of cedar and some underlying oak, with spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense plumy fruit supported by fairly bitter cedar from wood, which flows into a fairly long cedar laced finish. A child of a hot vintage.1 star

Petra Ebo Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately overripe, with some vegetal notes mingled with slight cedar, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with rather sour red berry fruit that has jammy overtones supported by acidity and smooth sweet greenish tannins; the overall impression is rather flat footed, however, and hulking as well. It's still, and I'd have liked some movement instead. This said, because of its acidity and tannic structure it will drink well with roasts or stews.1 star

Petra Querce Gobbe IGT Toscana 2003 This is a MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim that has hints of almandine. The bouquet is rich, with powerful black currant fruit supported by sweetness and vegetal accents; it's obviously the child of a hot vintage but displays nicely just the same. On the palate it's full, with powerful black currant fruit supported by deft black currant acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that are smooth enough to seem smaller than they are; it all flows into a clean long black currant fruit finish with some plum overtones. Quite pleasant in a big soft key, and this is the vintage at work; it will drink well with drier meats, be they red or white, for example a well done roast beef or pork loin. If you like this sort of wine, you will like it very much.2 stars

Petra Petra IGT Toscana 2002 This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a slightly greenish vegetal key; what initially emerges is green, with some underbrush and savory spice with slight balsamic notes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense balsamic fruit supported by clean sweet balsam laced tannins that are supported by brambly acidity, and flow into a clean brambly finish. It's clearly the product of a lesser vintage, but does display a certain grace, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. I wouldn't keep it for long, but in the short term it could contribute nicely to a meal.2 stars

Ambrosini Lorella Subertum Val di Cornia Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Merlot, Syrah and SangiovesePoured purple ink. The bouquet is quite fresh, with bright violets mingled with black currant fruit and some vegetal overtones, with underlying acidity as well. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with soft cherry plum fruit supported by black currant acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean soft berry fruit finish. It's obviously the product of a hot vintage, but holds together well and will drink nicely now with drier meats, be they red or white. If you like this big soft style, you will like it very much.2 stars

Ambrosini Lorella Riflesso Antico IGT Toscana 2003 This is a Montepulciano D'AbruzzoImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim; it looks like poured ink. The bouquet is disjointed, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with greenish notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a distinctly cedary feel to them, and flow into a fairly ling slightly bitter cedar finish. Something happened -- the hot 2003 summer, most likely -- and there isn't as much fruit as I'd have liked, nor is it as rich as I'd have liked.1 star

San Luigi Fidenzio IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted, though some forest berry fruit emerges, with hints of chalk and some spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with strong berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean cedar laced finish. Too much oak for my taste, and though it will fold in with time there isn't that much fruit to hold it together when it does.1 star

Sant'Agnese F.lli Gigli Libatio Lunae IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Sangiovese and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced bitterness supported by some sour accents, but there isn't much fruit to hold it together. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by considerable cedar from oak, and it all flows into a decidedly oaky finish that lays a layer of veneer over the tongue. Too much oak, and too little ripeness form the grapes.1 star

Sant'Agnese F.lli Gigli Spirito IGT Toscana 2003 This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonImpenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, but with little fruit -- what comes though is primarily cedar, with some vegetal overtones. On the palate it's more of the same, slight fruit and some acidity, but slight fruit.1 star

Michele Satta Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Trebbiano and VermentinoPale papery white with pale golden highlights. The bouquet is delicate, with honeydew melon mingling with some heather and underlying spice. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense white berry fruit supported by considerable bitter almond bitterness, which flows into a fairly long finish. Deft, and up front; it will drink nicely as an aperitif or with flavorful fish.1 star

Michele Satta Giovin Re Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004 This is a ViognierLively brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and a distinct change of pace, with a combination of bitter pungency laced with petroleum and underlying butterscotch. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate minerality supported by glycerin and some mineral acidity, which flow into a clean fairly bitter mineral finish. I'd have liked more depth, and a little more richness on the palate, which feels rather settled. Drink it as an aperitif, or with delicately flavored fish or cheeses.1 star

Michele Satta Diambra Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and othersLively cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up vegetal notes mingled with sea salt and some red berry fruit, with underlying cedar that provides balance. It's developing, yet. On the palate it's full and soft, with fairly rich forest berry fruit supported by deft black currant acidity and by ample tannins that are smooth enough to seem smaller than they are, and flow into a clean black currant finish. Pleasant, in a fairly soft key, and will drink nicely with drier red meats -- a pot roast, for example, or roast beef cooked medium -- or with roasted white meats served with gravy. I might give it a year before I opened it, though it will drink nicely now, and will age well for 3-5 years.2 stars

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot and othersDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit jam laced with black currants, and some underlying vegetal notes as well. Fairly rich, but I'd have liked a little more fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly intense black currant fruit supported by deft acidity that I didn't expect from the noise, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean black currant finish with some greenish overtones. It's pleasant, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats or light stews; though it will also age nicely for 3-5 years I found myself enjoying its freshness.1 star

Michele Satta Piastraia Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and SangioveseDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively slightly stewed berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice, with a fair amount of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a distinct cedary burr to them, and lay a layer of cedar over the tongue. I'd have liked more than I found, a bit rich and a bit soft.1 star

Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and SyrahDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with some sea salt and underlying spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with moderately intense jammy red berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that have a greenish cedary burr and flow into a long cedar-laced finish. I'd have expected more, frankly, of a Bolgheri Superiore; it's flat, and soft, with less fruit that I might have expected.1 star

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoPale papery white with pale gold reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a rich mixture of gooseberries and heather that has some bitter almond overtones. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense gooseberry fruit supported by considerable bitter almond bitterness and underlying savory acidity that carries into a fairly long bitter finish. Pleasant, in an up front key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with flavorful antipasti, or with rich fish dishes, including grilled salmon and such or fried fish, and one could also serve it with quickly cooked white meats.2 stars

Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2005 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and AleaticoPale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with raspberry fruit laced with raspberry and red currant acidity supported by some heather and the herbs of a Tuscan field in summer. On the palate it's rich, with bright raspberry fruit supported by lively raspberry and red currant acidity, with slight tannic underpinning, which flow into a clean bright acidic finish. Zesty, and will drink nicely as an aperitif if that's your preference, though I would be more tempted to drink it at a cookout or picnic, or perhaps with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables, or even fried fish. Expect it to go quickly.2 stars

Guado al Tasso Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and SyrahDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of cedar and some savory spice, but not much in the way of fruit, though it does give an impression of softness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate red berry fruit supported by tannins that have greenish cedary overtones and flow into a fairly long clean distinctly green tannic finish. In a word, heatstruck.1 star

Casa di Terra Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2005 This is a VermentinoPale brassy white with brassy highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite bitter, with bitter almonds and underlying heather, and some herbal acidity as well. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense honeydew melon supported by considerable bitter almond bitterness, and by daft acidity that keeps it from flagging. It will work nicely as an aperitif with flavorful antipasti, though perhaps better with flavorful fish, including roasted or grilled fish, or white meats.2 stars

Casa di Terra Moreccio Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep violet ruby with purple/violet rim, another babe in a glass. The bouquet is rich and young, with violets and floral accents mingled with bright red berry fruit, and some graphite shavings that add depth. Harmonious in a fresh and youthful key, and looks one straight in the eye. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit that's a little flatter than I might have liked, supported by smooth sweet tannins that again are just a touch flat, and by moderate acidity that is enough to keep it from flagging but doesn't really stimulate the wine, if this makes sense. In short, it's a touch settled, and I would drink it sooner than later because with time it will settle further. What with? Quickly grilled meats, or perhaps meat-based pasta dishes.1 star

Casa di Terra Mosaico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and SyrahDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some violet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and intensely oaky, with a rich of cedar with slight savory overtones and hints of India ink, but not much fruit at all. Not quite sniffing a barrel slat, but headed in that direction. On the palate it's more of the same, moderately rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a distinctly oaky feel, and flow into a fairly long oak-laced finish; whatever acidity there was has had its teeth pulled by the oak, and the wine is fairly settled.1 star

Casa di Terra Moronea Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit VerdotCask SampleImpenetrable pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and fairly intense spice, with rich jammy overtones. Charged. On the palate it's full, and soft, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean black currant finish. Pleasant, in a large soft key, and if you like this style it will drink nicely with drier meats, be they red or white. It needs time.

Campo alla Sughera Achenio Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and ChardonnayPale papery white with delicate pale brassy reflections. The bouquet is a surprise given the color; there's a terrific initial rush of butterscotch followed by greenish heather and some underlying bitterness. On the palate it's full, and rather languid, with fairly rich honeydew melon and apricot fruit that is supported by sweet butterscotch and vanilla and moderate acidity, which flows into a fairly long slightly savory warm finish; it feels as if it was barrel fermented and has not yet fully integrated what it got from the barrel. By the time it reaches the stores it will have, but as of now (April 06) it's not quite complete.1 star

Campo alla Sughera Arioso Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and ViognierPale brassy white with brassy highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly greenish apricot mingled with heather and some honeydew melon, while there are also bitterness and acidity to provide depth. On the palate it's full, and languid, with pleasant apricot laced fruit supported by moderate acidity and just enough savory bitterness to provide depth, while it flows into a clean slightly green apricot finish with honeydew melon overtones. Quite pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif, or with flavorful fish or quickly cooked white meats. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Campo alla Sughera Adeo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is very young, with a great rush of violets mingled with berry fruit jam and slight greenish vegetal notes that add depth and complexity, while there is pleasant acidity as well that adds depth. Quite a bit going on in a youthful, cheeky key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich black currant fruit that gains direction from some clean acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that are larger than they seem, and lead into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant, and though one could age it a few years, I would be tempted to drink it now to enjoy its freshness. Well worth seeking out, and expect the bottle to go quickly; depending upon your preference you could either enjoy ti with succulent, not too fatty red or white meats, or with friends far from the table.2 stars

Campo alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit VerdotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft red berry fruit balanced by cedar with some greenish vegetal notes mingled with some asphalt and a fair amount of spice. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with rich black currant fruit that gains direction from some currant acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that have fairly marked greenish cedar overtones, and flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. It's good, but.. the child of a hot vintage, with the softness and ripe fruit, with less in the way of acidity, which comes with heat. In short, it's good for what it is, a 2003, but I would like more from a Bolgheri Superiore, and this holds true for the other 2003 Bolgheri Superiore tasted too.2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Campofitto Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino and Malvasia di CandiaPale brassy white with brassy highlights. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some heather and delicate mineral notes. On the palate it's full, with fairly strong minerality supported by some bitter almond bitterness, and moderate acidity, which flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, and fairly direct; it will drink nicely as an aperitif, with vegetable soups, or with delicate fish dishes. I might also be tempted to serve it with mildly spiced oriental dishes.2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Acciderba Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, MerlotFairly deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fairly rich berry fruit and greenish accents with berry fruit jam and underlying spice. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample black currant fruit that gains direction from moderate black cuurant acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean long jammy black currant finish. A big, hot vintage wine, and though I wouldn't age it much it will be nice now with succulent grilled meats, assuming you like this ample soft style.2 stars

Le Fornacelle Zizzolo Bianco Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2005 This is a blend of Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, and TrebbianoBrassy gold with pale brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with honeydew melon balanced by a fair amount of bitter almond bitterness and some slightly balsamic sea salt. Deft. On the palate it's full, with bright honeydew melon supported by lively sour apricot acidity with pleasingly peppery zestiness, and flows into a fairly long clean sour apricot finish with underlying bitterness. It's pleasant in an upfront, bracing way, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with flavorful antipasti; it will also work quit well with rich creamy risotti or pasta dishes, and could be nice with fried meats or fish, in addition to the more standard flavorful fish or quickly cooked white meats.2 stars

Le Fornacelle Zizzolo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotViolet ruby with violet rim; when looking at it one feels like a cradle robber. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly vegetal red berry fruit, in particular black currants, supported by some berry fruit jam and slight acidity; the overall impression is one of youthful harmony. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean fairly dry tannins that have slight hints of hazelnut and a fair amount of warmth, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish that gains depth and direction from underlying bitterness. Pleasant, in a young and zesty key, and I would drink it now, with succulent grilled meats -- a mixture, as Italians prefer, or perhaps with a light stew. Expect the bottle to go quickly.2 stars

Le Fornacelle Guarda Boschi Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet SauvignonImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a mixture of black currant fruit and grilled bell pepper shot through with cedar, with underlying graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's full, with rich bright forest berry fruit that gains direction from lively raspberry acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have slight cedary overtones, and do a fine job of leading into a clean fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in an up front and scrappy sort of key, if one can say that about a wine that has considerable depth and substance, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats stews, including those made from venison or other flavorful game, and also with hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb. Worth seeking out, and it will also age nicely for 3-5 years.2 stars

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Campo al Mare Vermentino Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2005

This is a Vermentino

Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a nice balance between bitter almonds and honeydew melon, with a deft savory balsamic underpinning that adds depth but doesn't distract. On the palate it's Full, and rather languid, with warm honeydew melon fruit laced with some apricot, and supported by clean slightly savory acidity that flows into a long clean apricot laced finish. Pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif, though I think it would work better with grilled or baked fish.

Note: The winery is owned by Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari, and this is the address of their main offices.

Campo al Mare Campo al Mare Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a mixture of forest berry fruit, in particular black currants, and slightly greenish cedar that sees the cedar prevailing at present; there is also some berry fruit jam. On the palate it's full, and soft, with fairly intense red berry fruit, again black currants, supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cedary overtones, and flow into a clean black currant finish with some cocoa overtones. I'd have liked a little more acidity, because it's a touch settled, thanks also to the oak, but if you like smoother softer wines you will like it. Drink it with drier meats.1 star

Ceralti Lunare Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004 This is a blend of Chardonnay, Traminer, and ViognierBrassy gold with slightly greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with honeydew melon mingled with bitter butterscotch and slight eucalyptus with some underlying smoke as well. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright honeydew melon supported by moderate acidity and by a fair amount of glycerin from wood, which lead into a long clean honeydew melon and butterscotch finish. It's deft, and if you like this moderately oaky style you will like it very much; drink it as an aperitif, with flavorful fish, or perhaps with egg or cheese based dishes.2 stars

Ceralti Sciré Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep red rose ruby with red rose rim; youth in a glass. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and chewy red berry fruit, primarily cherries, mingled with some mentholated overtones and deft sour cherry acidity, with underlying greenish underbrush. On the palate it's full, and bright, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense sour cherry acidity, and is supported by slightly greenish tannins that have slight cedar overtones and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, and needs another year to get where it's going, though one could commandeer it now and drink it with succulent grilled meats or a light stew.2 stars

Ceralti Alfeo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with cedar and slight greenish overtones that are supported by berry fruit jam and the pungency of cut flowers, with underlying vegetal notes. Young. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with soft fairly generic cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have slightly greenish cedary notes that carry through into a fairly long cedar-laced finish. It's a bit flat, and I'd have expected a bit more than I found.1 star

Guado al Melo Bianco Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004This is a VermentinoPapery brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoke and gunflint bitterness mingled with minerality and slight heather. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich minerality supported by deft mineral acidity and some gunflint bitterness that flows into a clean fairly tart finish. It's pleasant, and if you like this combination of minerality and gunflint you will like it very much; drink it as an aperitif or with flavorful fattier fish.2 stars

Guado al Melo Antillo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and othersFairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks young. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and moderate greenish notes. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather lax slightly sour red berry fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr to them. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with red sauced pasta dishes or fattier meats off the grill; given its acidity it will also drink well with mixed fried meats.1 star

Guado al Melo Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotBlack almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up vegetal notes and a fair volume of cedar mingled with ripe berry fruit and slight lemony accents. On the palate it's full and soft, with lively black currant plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tightly woven tannins that have warm cedary overtones, and flow into a fairly long bright berry fruit finish. It's deft enough, in a large key, and will drink well with succulent red meats now, though I wouldn't set it aside for the future.2 stars

Guado al Melo Guado al Melo Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and MerlotRuby with black reflections and ruby rim. A fellow taster was muttering about cooked fruit when he got to this one, and By God he had a point; the first swish brought up a rush of stewed apples, which I don't think I've ever encountered in a red before, while subsequent swishings developed into sweet berry fruit jam with black currant and raspberry accents. The nose is almost as sweet as a dessert wine's. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with soft raspberry fruit supported by warm raspberry acidity and by sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sweet raspberry finish. One can only wonder how overripe and how sugar laden the grapes must have been as they came into the cellar. It's definitely not what I would expect from Bolgheri as a red, and certainly not a Rosso Superiore.1 star

Batzella Mezzodí Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2004 This is a blend of Viognier and Sauvignon BlancPale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with gunflint mingling with mineral acidity that brings mica to mind, and some underlying slightly greenish apricot and honeydew melon with floral accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather languid, with moderately intense green apricot and honeydew melon fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and hints of savory butterscotch that flow into a fairly long clean finish. Pleasant, in a fairly delicate key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with delicately flavored risotti or pasta dishes, and also with delicately flavored fish or white meats.2 stars

Batzella Digiá Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet FrancDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with some vegetal notes, and underlying black currants and slight cedar. Fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied, and bright, with lively forest berry fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are tightly woven and quite smooth, leading into a clean deft finish. Pleasant and very much on its toes; it will drink quite nicely with succulent grilled meats, for example lamb chops or a filet cooked rare, and will also drink nicely with light stews. Though it will age nicely for 3-5 years, I'd be tempted to drink it now to enjoy its freshness. Worth seeking out.2 stars

Batzella Pea'n Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, and vegetal, with quite a bit of bell pepper laced with balsam and fairly brisk balsamic acidity. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have warm cedary notes, and flow into a clean fairly sweet black currant finish; the acidity that was apparent on the nose is much less evident on the palate, likely because of the wood. If you like this sort of big soft wine, it will drink well with drier meats, but I prefer wines that are a little tighter, and brighter.1 star

Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2004 This is a VermentinoBrassy white with lively brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a rush of butterscotch laced with gunflint bitterness and some savory green apricot overtones. On the palate it's fairly rich, with powerful mineral laced white berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish with acidity and hints of butterscotch that carry at length. It will drink nicely with flavorful fish or cheese-based risotti, or with richly flavored fish. I found it growing on me.2 stars

Collemassari Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and SangioveseDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite young, with an initial rush of violets supported by cedar and pleasing forest berry fruit; the overall impression is controlled but opulent in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich forest berry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tightly woven very smooth tannins that seem smaller than they are, and flow into a clean fairly sweet berry fruit finish. Quite nice, in a smooth cheeky key -- it brings to mind a smiling teen who has gotten away with something good -- and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; though there is acidity to provide direction the tannins are smooth enough that I wouldn't pair it with fattier fare. But in the proper occasion it will be perfect, and is well worth seeking out, if you like this style.2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and SangioveseDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, and fairly intense, with bright forest berry fruit laced with lemony berry fruit jam and some underlying cedar; though the heat is evident in the slightly overripe character of the bouquet, it is pleasant. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from fairly rich berry fruit acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that have a warm cedar laced burr. It's elegant, and rich, though very much a child of the vintage, and as such I don't think I would lay it down for fear that it fade with time. Now it will work well with succulent red meats, and if you want to take a chance it will hold for 3-5 years.2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Felciano Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense vegetal notes mingling with red berry fruit and some underlying berry fruit jam and a fair amount of bitterness that gives direction and depth. On the palate it's still quite young, and medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by warm dry tannins that have slight hazelnut overtones, and flow into a clean warm bitter finish. As I said, it's young and quite disjointed; by the time it reaches market shelves it will have settled some, but I'd have liked a little more roundness to the fruit, which is a touch dry. This said, it will drink nicely with rich pasta dishes or quickly cooked grilled meats. Not a steak, but rather succulent chops or even a rich and tasty burger.1 star

Giovanni Chiappini Guado De'Gemoli Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with stewed plum fruit mingled with stewed apples, which are unusual in a red wine, but present here -- with a hint of cinnamon -- and some India ink bitterness laced with cedar. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with powerful jammy plum berry fruit that gains direction from some plum acidity, and is supported by ample sweet soft tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet finish. It's very much a child of the vintage, but within the context of the vintage works well; I would drink it now with succulent drier meats, along the lines of roast beef cooked medium, or perhaps pork loin. I wouldn't age it much, however.2 stars

Giorgio Cavallari Bolgheri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2005 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and MerlotDeep cherry ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with a fair amount of vegetal balsamic notes supported by some acidity, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly generic berry fruit that gains direction from some sour red currant acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a slight greenish edge to them, and flow into a fairly long clean tannic finish with tart underpinning. It's pleasant enough but doesn't really stand out; it will drink well with simple meat based pasta dishes, or with quickly grilled red meats, or light stews.1 star

Giorgio Cavallari Impronte Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy red berry fruit supported by ample greenish cedar and some underlying cocoa, with a fair amount of spice as well. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich jammy red berry fruit supported by bitter cedar and moderate acidity; the overall impression is a little flat, though it will drink nicely with succulent red meats.1 star)

Agriturismo La Rondine BolgheriTel 0565 749638Sgariglia Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004This is a blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet FrancDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite young, with pungent vegetal-laced red berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and an abundance of peppery spice. On the palate it's full, and softer than I expected, with ample jammy red berry fruit supported bouquet smooth sweet tannins that have youthful hints of cedar, and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish with lasting warmth and underlying red berry fruit. It's in mid-stride, and needs another year to get where it's going, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, though I might have liked a little more deftness to the fruit, which is a touch overripe. Drink it with hearty red meats, and expect it to age nicely for 3-5 years.2 stars

Tenuta Ornellaia Le Volte Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet SauvignonDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich jam laced berry fruit that gains direction from pleasing slightly greenish acidity, and is supported by some cedar and slight vegetal notes mingled with underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with fairly rich red berry fruit, a mixture of currants and cherries with some raspberry acidity to keep things in line, supported by tightly woven smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit laced finish with greenish tannic underpinning. Deft, in a sunny smiling key, and will drink quite nicely with succulent grilled meats, up through steak or lamb chops, or hearty beef or pork stews, though it's not quite rich enough for game. I'd drink it now to enjoy its freshness.2 stars

Tenuta Ornellaia Serre Nuove Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit VerdotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a pleasing mixture of graphite shavings and black currant fruit supported by a certain greenness; there isn't much acidity, but it's not flat. On the palate it's full and soft, with ample black currant fruit laced with plums, which gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have a slight cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly long finish. It's big, and rather soft, and if you like the style you will like it, though I would give it another year for the tannins to fold completely into the wine. If you instead prefer tighter wines with better definition, this won't work for you. In short, particular, and in any case I would serve it with drier meats.2 stars

Tenuta Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and PetitVerdotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with powerful black currant fruit supported by some greenish jammy notes and by clean spice with underlying alcoholic warmth. Quite elegant, and though the heat of the summer is evident, there is a pleasing richness to the fruit. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful black currant fruit that gains some direction from deft berry fruit acidity, while the tannins, which are smooth enough that they seem smaller than they are, provide beautiful direction. It's quite elegant, and though softer than one would find in a better vintage, displays considerable depth and power. Because of its softness I would drink it with drier red meats, for example roast beef cooked medium, or roast pork loin. I don't think I would age it for too long.2 stars

Tenuta Ornellaia Masseto Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2003This is a MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable cedar and spice overlying some sea salt; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's big and soft, with ample plum berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample rather lax tannins that have a powerful cedar overlay and flow into a clean cedar laced finish.1 star

Tringali Casanuova Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly vegetal, with haunting greenish cedar that has some berry fruit jam overtones and is also supported by some acidity that has hints of sugar to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit that gains direction from fairly intense savory acidity, and is supported by ample cedar laced tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a faily long warm finish. It's deft, but a little lighter in terms of fruit than I might have liked; this said, it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and may do nice things over the next 2-3 years as it matures.1 star

Cipriana Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotFairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by violets and slight greenish notes, with a fair amount of berry fruit jam as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity that gains depth from some greenish notes, and by clean sweet tannins that still have a youthful burr. Harmonious, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats, along the lines of lamb chops or chicken with its skin, and will also be pleasant with a light stew. Though it will age nicely for 3-5 years, I might be tempted to drink it now because its freshness is quite pleasant.2 stars

Cipriana Scopaio Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and SyrahDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is somewhat overripe, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish overtones; there isn't much in the way of acidity to it. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet black currant and plum finish. Overripe, and soft.1 star

Grascete Antero Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a MerlotInky pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and bright cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and intensely vegetal -- it brings grilling peppers to mind -- and as such is unidirectional, though the direction taken is nice, and one can expect it to develop further with time. On the palate it's rich, with powerful berry fruit laced with berry fruit jam sweetness, and strong slightly balsamic grilled pepper overtones that flow into a clean warm berry fruit finish with (again) grilled pepper notes; it's surprisingly vegetal for a Merlot -- I took it for a Cabernet -- but if you like this style you will like it very much; because of its lively acidity it will work very well with grilled meats, or hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb.2 stars

Grascete Le Grascete Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and SangioveseDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a rush of grilled bell pepper mingled with warmth and moderate acidity; though it's quick to write; it's also quite pleasant to sniff: On the palate it's full, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit fruit laced with grilled pepper, and supported by both deft acidity and by clean sweet tannins that lead into a long slightly tart fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant, and will contribute mightily to a meal built around a succulent porterhouse steak, though one could also drink it with a hearty roast or a rich stew, including venison or other flavorful meats. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.90

Grascete Grale 35 Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite young, with an initial rush of violets mingled with cedar, which gives way to slightly balsamic savory red berry fruit with pungent cut flower overtones. On the palate it's full, and softer than I had expected, with fairly bright red berry fruit that gains definition from slightly lemony jammy notes, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly sour berry fruit finish. I'd have liked greater tightness to the fruit, which is a bit lax, and a touch more sour than I prefer. This said, it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a good bet with hearty pasta sauces.1 star

Guicciardini StrozziLocalita Cusona, 553037 San Gimignano (Siena)Tel 0577/950028Note: This is the address of their main office, in San Gimignano

Strozzi Ocra Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and also a bit disjointed, with a mixture of vegetal elements and berry fruit on the one hand, and cedar on the other, that don't quite come together. It needs a little more time. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit that's overshadowed to a degree by cedar from oak, which carries into a fairly long sweet finish with cedar overtones. It needs another year, but, at least for me, there's a bit too much oak to it. In any case, drink it with succulent grilled meats, or light stews.1 star

I Greppi Greppicante Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit jam mingled with vegetal overtones and some spice, with underlying cedar and graphite shavings. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich slightly sour berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. I wouldn't have expected the acidity from the nose, but enjoyed it because it gives direction, and will help the wine to pair with succulent grilled meats or roasts, including richer fare such as leg of lamb.2 stars

Greppi Cupi Rubino dei Greppi Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003This is a blend of Sangiovese, sc and MerlotPale pyrope ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cedar and a fair amount of spice; the overall impression is quite young in a rather green key, and it needs time to come together; with more swishing the berry fruit increases in intensity. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful, fairly soft slightly green jammy berry fruit supported by ample cedar laced tannins that have green overtones, and by deft sour red currant acidity. It's a bit disjointed, and though this is in part the terrific youth of the wine, it's also the heat of the vintage that interfered with the ripening of the grapes. This said, I would give it another year or two to develop, and then drink it with a succulent steak. Expect it to age nicely for 8 to 10 years, though it won't reach the heights scaled by better vintages, for example 20012 stars

Poggio alla Querce il Guado Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and MerlotImpenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter India ink and some cedar mingled with greenish notes and some berry fruit, though not much. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with rich jam-laced black currant fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that have a slight hint of toasted hazelnut, and flow into a clean fairly sweet berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, though a touch less clean than I might have liked, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.1 star

Tenuta Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and MerlotDeep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with an abundance of black currant fruit supported by dusky underbrush and some cedar, with vegetal overtones and pencil shavings that add depth and definition. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins; with respect to the nose it falls flat and I found myself wanting greater richness and life from the fruit than I found.1 star

Tenuta Argentiera Villa Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly smoky, with hardwood ash and a fair amount of cedar supporting some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with ample cherry and plum fruit supported by ample smooth sweet soft tannins that gain direction from moderate acidity, and flow into a clean fairly sweet black currant finish. It's overripe, and I found it to be overly soft for my taste; it will in any case drink well with drier meats, in the near future. I wouldn't set it aside.1 star

Tenuta Argentiera Argentiera Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is overripe, with stewed berry fruit mingled with balsamic smoky accents. Yet another child of the vintage. On the palate it's full, and soft, with ample fairly sweet red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sweet finish. Overripeness in spades, and in terms of accompaniments I would go with drier meats, in the fairly near future.1 star

Azienda Agricola Le Macchiole Via Bolgherese 189/ATel 0565 766 092

Le Macchiole Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and SangioveseDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with moderate red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderate forest berry fruit supported by some, but not excessive acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly cedary edge to them. I found it a bit too oaky for my taste.1 star

Le Macchiole Messorio Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2002This is a MerlotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with deft raspberry acidity supported by red berry fruit and considerable spice, with some greenish notes as well. Pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour red berry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by clean tannins that lay a greenish veneer over the tongue; it's the child of a difficult vintage, and I wouldn't want to drink it far from the table, but it will go nicely in the near future with succulent red meats.2 stars

Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2002This is a Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with scrappy red berry fruit supported by some vegetal notes and underlying cedar, with moderate balsam and a fair amount of sea salt as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly intense slightly sour red berry fruit supported by lively acidity, and by rather greenish tannins that flow into a long clean greenish tannic finish. After tasting a slew of 2003 wines it's remarkably refreshing, and if you're drinking it by itself it will work well with succulent red meats. Not the child of a great vintage, but it does display a certain charm, and will contribute nicely to the table, though I wouldn't keep it for that long.2 stars

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana2004 This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and SangioveseDeep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and some vegetal accents. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft clean sweet tannins, while there is also pleasant red currant acidity for direction. It will drink nicely with succulent red meats.2 stars

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003 This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet FrancDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine at the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with considerable depth; there's fairly rich bell pepper laced fruit backed up by considerable alcohol and spice, with some savory balsamic notes in the background; it's pleasant bit doesn't have the richness nor the texture one finds in better years; the wood is stepping in to a degree. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful jammy red berry fruit that gains direction from some, but not too much acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them; it's a touch flat, and the grapes clearly overripened meaning that the wood had to step in to flesh out the structure, a task it was able to perform, though not so well as one might have liked. In short, it's the child of a difficult vintage, and though it is elegant it cannot match better vintages.1 star

Podere Sapaio Volpolo Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2004This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit VerdotDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with considerable cedar mingled with cooked cherry fruit and some berry fruit jam. It's like smelling a barrel slat. On the palate it's full, and rich, almost syrupy, with powerful cherry plum fruit that gains moderate direction from some acidity, while the tannins have stong cedary overtones. Too much wood for my taste, and as it settles with time it will become perhaps overly smooth as well. If you like the style, it will drink well with flavorful drier meats, for example rich pot roasts.1 star

Aia Vecchia Lagone Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2003This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and SyrahDeep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is overripe, with jammy red berry fruit that does manage some acidity, and fairly intense balsamic notes mingled with some barnyard tang and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, and quite soft, with fairly intense red berry fruit that gains direction from lively citric acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins; the palate is richer than I had expected from the nose, and this bodes well over the next couple of years, though I wouldn't age the wine for too long. It is a child of heat, but does well for itself, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats.2 stars

Aia Vecchia Sor Ugo Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana 2002This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit VerdotDeep black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and vegetal notes mingled with berry fruit, slight barnyard tang and some, well, apple seeds, which are odd in a red but present. On the palate it's full, with soft red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, and by some clean berry fruit acidity that flows into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. It's fairly light, and this is an effect of the vintage, but pleasing in a scrappy key, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I wouldn't age it, I don't think.1 star

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IWR uses a simple Three-Star Rating System

NO STAR goes to wines that are correctly made but nothing to get excited about.ONE STAR goes to wines that are good.TWO STARS go to wines that are very good to excellent.THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE (90-100) go to wines that are superb to extraordinary.And I will give pairing suggestions, which I consider much more important than the scores.