Gather round for this sewing technique round-up! I’ve collected 10 tips for gathering fabrics that will change the way you approach your next sewing project. Whether you are working with thick cotton to lightweight sheers, there’s a technique for you! Tips #3, #5, and #7 are included in the online episode of Sewing With Nancy. My go-to favorite tip is #8.

Tip #1—Use a different color thread in the needle and the bobbin

You’ll soon see that there are several ways to gather, and having contrasting thread colors is helpful when trying to distinguish between the needle and bobbin thread. It’s not necessary to use a high contrast as you’ll see in the photos, but I am sure that you figured that out already! (I used red thread in the needle and black thread in the bobbin in the below samples.)

Tip #2—The bobbin thread is easier to pull—sew from the right side

When choosing to gather with two rows of gathering threads, sew from the right side. The bobbin thread is always easier to pull. That feature has to do with how the stitches are formed. The right side of a gathered fabric is aligned to the right side of corresponding fabric. Having the gathering threads on the wrong side, gives you the flexibility to easily adjust the gathers during the pinning process.

Tip #3—Lock the threads at the beginning of the seam

This tip is not widely suggested, yet it saves me lots of time. Generally, it is recommended to wrap the beginning threads figure-eight style around a vertically placed pin to prevent the threads from pulling out during the gathering process. Stitching 2–3 stitches and then back stitching, does the same thing, but faster!

Tip #4—Test the stitch length

With medium to heavier weight fabrics, stitch two parallel rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance, using a relatively long stitch length, 4.0–5.0. The longest stitch is not always the best since there is too much “play” of the fabric in the long stitch, causing uneven gathers.

Use a much shorter stitch length with lightweight fabrics. The length used in this sample was a 3.5 stitch length.

Tip #5—Add three rows of stitching to sheer fabrics

This is an optional tip, yet I find sheer fabrics lie flatter if three rows of stitches are sewn within the seam. It takes a little extra time, but worth it! Compare the smoothness of the gathers in the photo below compared to the photo above.

Tip 6# —Don’t use the machine thread cutter when gathering by pulling the bobbin threads

If you have the thread-cutting feature on your machine, it’s tricky to remember to pull the threads at the end of the seam and cut manually. The automatic thread cutter cuts the threads very close to the fabric—too close to easily find and then pull the threads.

Tip #7—Use a serger for gathering when 1/4″ seams are allowed

Ah, I really like this way of gathering! It’s almost impossible to stitch two rows of basting stitches within a 1/4″ seam allowance. If you have a serger, simply serge from the wrong side of the fabric with a 4-thread overlock stitch and a long stitch length. Separate the needle threads from the looper threads. This time, pull the needle threads. Presto, perfect gathers.

Tip #8—Zigzag over the bobbin thread for a secure gathering technique

This is my go-to gathering technique:

Stitch from the wrong side of the fabric.

Take one stitch, hold on to the thread tail of the needle thread and gently pull upward—the bobbin thread (black thread) will loop up.

Pull up the bobbin thread, pulling the thread as long as the area to be gathered. Lay the thread on top of the fabric.

Set the machine for a zigzag stitch. Test the stitch width and length. I prefer a 4.0–5.0 width and a 2.5 length. (The narrower zigzag width provides control of the gathers.)

Pull the long thread to gather the fabric!

Tip #9—Zigzag over a cord when gathering heavier fabrics

Stitch from the wrong side of the fabric.

Set the machine for a zigzag stitch. Test out the stitch width and length. I prefer a 4.0–5.0 width and a 2.5 length. The narrower zigzag width provides more control of the gathers.

Rather than zigzagging over the pulled-up bobbin thread, place a heavy cord on top of the fabric. Zigzag over the cord.

After stitching, anchor the beginning and ending of the cord by wrapping figure-eight style around a vertically placed pin.

Pull the free end of the cord and gather.

Tip #10—Gather using the no-stitching technique

Talk about easy! I use this technique when stitching doll clothes, lightweight fabrics, and other small projects.

Press Fuse ‘n Gather (a fusible gathering tape) to the wrong side of a strip of fabric along the top of the fabric. (Follow the iron setting as detailed on the package.) The stitches are tinted blue on the side of the tape that must face upward.

Pull the blue gathering threads at both ends, creating a 2″–3″ thread tail.

At one end secure the threads by wrapping them in figure-eight style around a pin.

On the other end, pull the blue gathering threads to create the gathers.

Ta dah!

I’ve written and demonstrated each of these gathering techniques. This is the first time that I’ve put them

Thanks for new ideas and ways of doing things- always have trouble getting the gathers even and have trouble with thread breaking when about half way through – trying to redoing some tops- seem to have the wrong size and need to downsize them – what suggestions do you have – thanks

Arlene BurgerNovember 1, 2016

I would like to see the ssewing technique on how to sew different closures for pillows besides a zipper. Thank you.

Helen JaroslawskiOctober 30, 2016

I have used all of the methods above except for the fuse ‘n gather tape . It sounds interesting and easy. Thanks for helping to keep us informed on all the latest sewing aids.

Helen JaroslawskiOctober 30, 2016

I have used all oftyhe methods above except for the fuse ‘n gather tape . It sounds interesting and easy. Thanks for helping to keep us informed on all the latest sewing aids.

I discovered the zig zag over crochet cotton technique just this year and it really is my favourite (I have your fusible gathering tape though for very light fabrics and love it!) but instead of wrapping the cotton around a needle at one end I just tie one end to my thread tail to secure it and pull the other end to create the gathers. I find this technique makes nice even gathers and the crochet cotton never breaks! Thank you for this post. Great suggestions as always Nancy.

ChrisOctober 30, 2016

Loved your tips on gathering techniques! I am still struggling with getting a nice zigzag stitch that covers the edges well and doesn’t pucker.

Pam. COctober 30, 2016

I would like to know how you professionals do your gathering with Shirring elastic, I have never see the fus n gather product , this looks very interesting

Nancy ZiemanOctober 31, 2016

Pam, I would recommend to zigzag over the shirring elastic, secure one end and then pull the elastic to create the shirring.

TamraOctober 30, 2016

I am helping teach ladies at our church how to sew BUT I believe we should have the TV on and watch Sewing with Nancy instead!! Nancy makes everything interesting and simple to understand. I know the ladies would enjoy learning to use the “Fuse n Gather” tape in class. Thanks Nancy for sharing your gift of sewing!

TamraOctober 30, 2016

I am helping teaches ladies at church how to sew but I believe we should have the TV turned on to Sewing with Nancy instead! Nancy’s classes are so informative and east to follow. I know we could learn to use the “fuse n gather tape” in class for our future projects. Thanks Nancy!!!!

Judy G.October 30, 2016

I’ve never use the Fuse ‘n Gather product. Yay! Another excuse to go to the fabric store. LOL! Recently my long-time foster daughter came to me lamenting that she had broken a sewing machine needle–a first for her–and didn’t know what to do. Now, mind you, she is 40+yo and has been sewing for over 25 years, but only acquired her own machine in the last couple of years. I knew she knew how to sew, but it never occurred to me that no one had taught her the basics. After explaining to her the many needle options and what they are for, I sent her home with a package of general purpose 80/12′s. Sew, perhaps a review of the many needle options is in order. (I now have to wonder if she ever does any preventive maintenance on her machine, like cleaning the bobbin area. Next time she visits, I’ll have to ask her about this!)

sonjaOctober 29, 2016

Thank you for your tips and easy to follow instructions. I would like to know how to line a knit jacket.

BonnyeOctober 29, 2016

Great gathering ideas. I use crochet thread when I gather. I would like to learn about using different serger edges used in blankets.

Penny HarringtonOctober 29, 2016

Hi Nancy, I’ve always had difficulty applying a bound buttonhole. I bet you have an easier way to do this.

I like to sew the two gathering lines about ¼ Inch a part. Then, before gathering the threads, I like to divide the fabric into 4 parts as well as the skirt band too or bodice top…I place a pin at each section and then pull the gathers up into fit each section…it works-perfectly and saves a lot of time.

PappyOctober 29, 2016

Loved your gathering ideas, thank you. I would like to know how to use shirring elastic please.

Gail BeamOctober 29, 2016

Great tutorial on gathering using different methods. I would like to see how to put in a zipper for decorative purposes like you see on so many clothes items today.

CarolOctober 29, 2016

Love he Fuse ‘n Gather. Would it give the look of smocking on a little girl’s dress without the scratching feeling on the inside from elastic thread?

Nancy ZiemanNovember 21, 2016

Hi Carol, Using Fuse ‘n Gather for smocking a little girl’s dress is something we had not thought to try. Let me know how it turns out by writing to me at [email protected]

Carol CampbellOctober 29, 2016

I would love to see a Nancy demo on set in sleeves without pleats and gathers! I would also LOVE to win that gathering tape! What an amazing idea!

StarlaOctober 29, 2016

Zipper tips are always appreciated! And I’d like to know more about choosing and using stabilizers.

Judy ReamesOctober 29, 2016

I’m making a “Dorothy” costume for my niece…How did you know I needed a refresher course on gathering? Thank you. Do you have a method mitering satin blanket binding? I never get it right.

I’ve ALWAYS had trouble making my gathering stitch looking even. Thank you so much for this video!

BrendaOctober 29, 2016

I love the Serge and gather. I have a serger but had never thought to gather that way. I would like for you to show us how to applique.

PamBOctober 29, 2016

Love the gathering techniques! I would like to see different buttonhole options. What options are best for what type of fabric. Especially on fleece since it is cooler out and we are wearing more of that now.

LindaOctober 29, 2016

Judy, thank you for sharing the idea of using dental floss. That’s something I can handle!

Karen PattersonOctober 29, 2016

Thank you for all your directions on gathering! They are so helpful! I always just sewed 2 rows….but never thought of using contrasting different color threads nor the idea of the zigzag stitching with cording. I want to try the fuse technique too. Could you show us how to put in pleats or pintucks in a blouse? I think they are so neat.

KJOctober 29, 2016

Please give suggestions for zigzagging around appliqués, esp felt. Circles, difficult angles are so hard for me to figure out. I like to make placemats, busy books etc for my grandchildren. I cringe at circles and weird angles. Thanks so much

Nancy, please demo how to mitre border corners on quilts, table cloths, etc. Your videos and shows are so inspiring that I’ve started garment sewing again. Than you!

Sherry KellyOctober 29, 2016

Another way to gather that I have tried recently is to sew your first line of stitches, leave needle in down position, turn 90 degrees, sew 2 stitches, needle down, turn 90 degrees, sew another line back in other direction. This way, when you pull on the two bobbin threads, they will not pull out from the other side.

CrystalOctober 29, 2016

Nancy, you are such an amazingly knowledgeable go-to resource for sewing anything! I would like to see how you tackle dresden blades in quilting next! Thanks! Love this product (never knew it existed!) and can see the appeal for doll clothes – we make a lot of those around here!

Judy HartOctober 29, 2016

Nancy, I have zigzagged over dental floss which is very easy to pull and never breaks. It’s easy for me with my old fingers.

Martha EOctober 29, 2016

I would like to see the proper way to fit a sleeve into a garment. Seems so many of the blouses have sleeves that are too far down in the shirt and it makes it hard to raise your arm.

RuthOctober 29, 2016

Thanks for some new tips. Way back in 4/H I learned the 3 thread technique & have used it exclusively. Will be sure to try the serger

Roxanna Owen--QuiddityRoxOctober 29, 2016

I always learn something new, Nancy. I wish I had known about using the bobbin thread as a tool when I was making my little girls’ clothing. I have now been creating quilts and enjoy your pattern ideas now!! Best Wishes

SharonOctober 29, 2016

Thank you for the great tutorial, however, I an not sure where to sew the anchor stitches. Above the gathering stitches, between edge of fabric, or below the gathering stitches, towards the bulk of fabric. Any help in this area would be grately appreciated.
Thankyou kindly,
Sharon

Nancy ZiemanNovember 1, 2016

Sharon, Anchoring the stitches is optional. After you’ve gathered your fabric to the desired length, you may machine stitch (within the seam allowance) back and forth over the thread tails.

Margaret (Peggy) CarlsonOctober 29, 2016

I bought your book The Absolute easiest way to sew. So helpful, since I sew doll clothes, that tape is something I am going to try.

PamOctober 29, 2016

I never imagined there were so many gathering options. I am especially fascinated with the fuse ‘n gather product.