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Matt Semmelhack and chef Mark Liberman took a real risk last year when they opened in a sketchy area on Mission, but they were rewarded as finalists for the James Beard Best New Restaurant Award, and they have created a national buzz and plan to open a wood-fire restaurant nearby later this year. The decor changes every season - the copper bar and bare wood tables of autumn are replaced in winter with Carrara marble and white tablecloths. Liberman creates even more excitement on the menu that might include cauliflower in various guises - raw, pureed, charred, blanched and dehydrated to create different textures.