Paget Chenin “Maestro” 2016

$25

Chenin from the middle Loire is often vinified off-dry, or what the vignerons now call “sec-tendre.” It’s another good choice for an aperitif, but it pairs surprisingly well with food as well. Paget’s sec-tendre has 10-12 grams of residual sugar, which is not enough to make it taste sweet (Champagne may be designated “Brut” at sugar levels up to 12), but enough to make the wine feel beautifully round in the mouth.

He calls it “Maestro,” and it’s fermented in barrels and held there for 12 to 14 months. We thought it a lovely expression of the grape. Try this wine with an Asian stir-fry, particularly Thai food. Or serve with a platter of salty (even strong) cheeses;