Large white boards (or "dry erase" boards) are a great tool for displaying and organizing information visually, but they tend to be expensive. Instead of wasting money, create one yourself for a fraction of the price. Great alternatives can be made for around $30 dollars or less, depending on the materials you use. See Step 1 below to get started!

Confirm the dimensions of your board. The size of your makeshift white board is completely up to you. However, the types of material you will be using to create the white board often come in 4'x8' sheets, so, if you need something larger, you will need to plan to buy multiple sheets.

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2

Buy melamine sheet(s) from your local hardware store. Melamine is a fiberboard sheet that has a hard plastic-like coating on one side. Sometimes, these sheets are textured to look like tile, which can be a plus in certain situations (like if you need to organize your information into squares), but, usually, this just gets in the way. So, you'll probably want to choose a sheet with a smooth finish, since they generally erase easier and look better when written on.

For a clear board, use plexiglass or Lexan. Alternatively, try one of these thinner polymer materials to make a transparent dry erase board. Both are available at most local home improvement stores. Of the two, Lexan is preferable because it is about 1/2 as thick as plexiglass, weighs less, doesn't shatter during drilling, and has a nicer, "glassier" finish than plexiglass. However, Lexan is the more expensive choice.

Brace your board with a backer board if needed. Regardless of the material you choose, your board will be very thin (only about 1/4" - 1/2" thick). Because of this, it will be somewhat bendable or flexible. This isn't a problem if you plan to attach your board directly to a wall with glue - in this case, the wall behind the board will provide support while you're writing. However, if you need to be able to move your board around, buy a backer board to glue it to for added stability.

The material of your backer board can be virtually anything - cork-board, wood, and even additional sheets of your board's base material work well.

5

If necessary, cut your board to size. If your board needs to be smaller than 4'x8' (or other dimensions you may have bought it in), then you will need to cut it. If you don't have the right tools to do this on your own, don't worry - a lumberyard or home improvement store will be able to cut it for you. If you're cutting the material on your own, move the saw slowly through the material. Rushing can cause plexiglass, lexan, and melamine to chip very badly.

Use glue/screws/hangers/etc.to hang your board. Don't forget that a dry erase board is only any good if you can hang it on the wall! In terms of which hanging methods to use, there are no right answers - anything that keeps the board steady on the wall so that you can comfortably write on it is fair game! Gluing, nailing, or screwing the board to the wall is a semi-permanent solution, while hanging it on hooks allows it to be easily removed.

Note that this type of board works best with smooth walls when gluing the board directly to the wall. If your wall has bumps or texture, there may be a few millimeters between the wall and board, which can make the board unstable when you write on it.

You may also want to dress up your board with some trim or a "ledge" to hold your markers - it's up to you.

Use your board as you desire. Congratulations! Your dry erase board is ready to use to your heart's content. If you're going to use the board for the same thing every day, you may want to split the board into subsections as needed. For instance, if the board is be going to be used to keep track of your schedule, you might want to divide it into "days" and "weeks" (and so on).

If you'd like to sub-divide your board, try using automotive pin striping (available at an auto repair store). Black pinstripe comes in two sizes, 1/4" and 1/8", which work well for a bold, yet uniform effect. Pinstripe is available in many colors, sizes, and patterns.

Method 2 of 2: Making a Painted Dry Erase Board

1

Grab or buy a piece of smooth material with suitable dimensions. Many dry erase boards aren't actually one uniform piece of material like the ones described in the step above. Instead, they're a solid core of hard, smooth material that's been painted with multiple coats of paint to create a smooth writing surface. A wide variety of materials are suitable for these types of boards. Generally speaking, you're looking for something durable that's thin, durable, rectangular, and perfectly smooth. Don't choose anything that's rough or textured, as this will produce an uneven writing surface.

Steel or aluminum sheets are perfect for this task - they are smooth, strong, and thin. Between these two materials, the choice is up to you. Aluminum is lighter, but more expensive. Steel, on the other hand, is heavier, but it is also cheaper and has the added benefit of being magnetic, which can allow you to pin things to it with magnets.

2

Paint your board white. While there are no rules saying that you have to have a white dry erase board, they are traditionally white for good reason - any color of ink will show up against a white background. Give your board a thorough coating of white paint, ensuring that one surface is entirely covered. You may want to allow your base coat to dry, then add another coat to ensure the board is thick enough.

There are lots of suitable paints and laminates that can give you a suitable clear performance layer. One of the best of these, melamine, is mentioned as a possible solid base material for your dry erase board in the previous section. Melamine is also available in liquid "paint" form and can be used to give your board a great writing finish.

4

Consider installing trim or a ledge for markers. After your clear coat dries, the dry erase board is basically ready to use. However, as in the section above, you may want to consider adding extra features like trim and a ledge or tray to hold markers to make your board easier to use. Trim (usually metal or plastic) conceals the unfinished edges of the base material and gives the board a pleasing border. A tray or "ledge", on the other hand, is usually a thin piece of metal that runs along the bottom edge of the board, serving as a place to keep your markers when you're not using them. Install these features (or any others you'd like) before mounting your board on the wall.

5

Install your board on the wall. Your painted dry erase board should be hung in basically the same way as the melamine/plexiglass/Lexan examples from the previous section are. To fix the board directly to the wall, use glue, nails, or mounting screws (you may need to make holes in your board to be able to use nails or screws). On the other hand, if you'd like to be able to move your board, consider hanging it from mounting hooks. If you do so, you may want to consider adding a backboard so that the board sits securely against the wall.

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Melamine will tend to leave ghost images of your dry erase marks. Those can be removed with alcohol. Adding a layer of car wax to the board will make the marks much easier to erase fully.

Alternately, use a straight edge (ruler) and a razor blade knife to score a line on the material where you will be sawing. This will keep the surface from chipping.

If you cut the material at home, you may want to buy a new blade for your saw while you're at the store to make a clean cut. Buy a blade made to cut plywood and laminate.

When cutting Melamine, sticking masking tape over the cutting line holds the edge of the particle board in place and prevents chipping.

You can also turn the blade around on your table or circular saw so that it is cutting in the "wrong" direction. This gives you a clean chip free cut; just cut a little slower. This trick also works on PVC products like pipe or lattice.

Warnings

Be careful not to cut yourself with the cutting device if you choose to cut the material personally.