Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.

Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.

Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.

Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.

In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

70 feet to the right of the giant Phase 3 off-width, and immediately to the right of a prominent arete (Ladder, 5.7).

A short, steep, and crimpy crux bookended by some fun, technical climbing. Beware of the spiders that live in the crack below the roof!

Climb up the right-facing corner below the roof clipping a couple of bolts. Gain a good horizontal with some large, shaky flakes stuck in it.

Clip another bolt and use a high step on a great, ball-like feature to your right and some razor edges for your fingers. Crank up and into a very shallow corner.

Clip a couple more bolts before gaining the positive horizontal relief. Place some gear and continue up the easier slab above, placing a couple more pieces of gear before reaching the shared chain anchors on a nice ledge.

Location

Locate the roof protected with bolts 70 feet to the right of Phase 3 immediately to the right of a prominent arete.