Vivienne Tam says she is giving her fall 2013 collection that she'll show at New York Fashion Week a "harder edge" by using primary, bold colors such as black, reds, charcoal and Army greens with lots of texture. She says her collection this season is "very graphic and, in a way, rebellious" with attention to pockets, zippers and military accents.

Vivienne Tam says she is giving her fall 2013 collection that she'll show at New York Fashion Week a "harder edge" by using primary, bold colors such as black, reds, charcoal and Army greens with lots of

Designer Ann Yee's sketch of a look she'll send onto the runway during New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 shows. Yee says that color and the juxtaposition of hard versus soft will be a popular trend next fall.

Designer Ann Yee's sketch of a look she'll send onto the runway during New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 shows. Yee says that color and the juxtaposition of hard versus soft will be a popular trend next

Tadashi Shoji will use red lace and tulle to create a dramatic tea-length cocktail dress for 2013.

Tadashi Shoji will use red lace and tulle to create a dramatic tea-length cocktail dress for 2013.

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Designer Son Jung Wan's fall 2013-14 collection for New York Fashion Week will included reversible pieces that were made by hand because of the challenges of making such a garment.

Designer Son Jung Wan's fall 2013-14 collection for New York Fashion Week will included reversible pieces that were made by hand because of the challenges of making such a garment.

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2013-14 fall collection sketch from desginers Falguni and Shane Peacock, who will show at NY Fashion Week.

2013-14 fall collection sketch from desginers Falguni and Shane Peacock, who will show at NY Fashion Week.

Photo: Courtesy

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Suno designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis will send out garments they say are made of "medieval tapestries and jacquards" for Suno's Fall 2013-14 collection. Looks will be modernized through structured silhouettes and contrasting proportions.

Suno designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis will send out garments they say are made of "medieval tapestries and jacquards" for Suno's Fall 2013-14 collection. Looks will be modernized through structured

Designer Serge Azria says the Joie label he designs will draw inspiration from vintage creations while maintaining a fresh approach to fashion.

Designer Serge Azria says the Joie label he designs will draw inspiration from vintage creations while maintaining a fresh approach to fashion.

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Designer Elie Tahari says he designs pieces that the classic, modern, and stylish woman wants. Here's a sketch of his fashion vision for next fall when he presents his collection during New York's Fashion Week when the fall 2013-14 collections will be presented.

Designer Elie Tahari says he designs pieces that the classic, modern, and stylish woman wants. Here's a sketch of his fashion vision for next fall when he presents his collection during New York's Fashion Week

Designer Monika Chiang says her fall 2013-14 fall collection that she will present during New York Fashion Week will feature many a drop shoulder and unexpected volume. She's also experimenting with new fabric treatments.

Designer Monika Chiang says her fall 2013-14 fall collection that she will present during New York Fashion Week will feature many a drop shoulder and unexpected volume. She's also experimenting with new fabric

Designer Rachel Zoe's fall 2013-14 collectiont that she will present during New York Fashion Week drew inspiration from the 1970s equestrian lifestyle. She also was interested in incorporating romantic menswear elements and intricate baroque detailing with something tougher and edgier.

Designer Rachel Zoe's fall 2013-14 collectiont that she will present during New York Fashion Week drew inspiration from the 1970s equestrian lifestyle. She also was interested in incorporating romantic menswear

Designer Abraham Cruz says he will mix fabrics and textures in the same color story for his fall 2013-14 Isaac Cruz collection that he will at New York Fashion Week.

Designer Abraham Cruz says he will mix fabrics and textures in the same color story for his fall 2013-14 Isaac Cruz collection that he will at New York Fashion Week.

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Pamella Roland will create an evening gown in brilliant green as part of her 2013 collection.

Pamella Roland will create an evening gown in brilliant green as part of her 2013 collection.

Photo: Courtesy

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Dennis Basso celebrates his 30th anniversary collection during New York Fashion Week Fall 2013-14 collections with a tribute to great American fashion icons such as Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness and Milicent Rogers. He says these were women and fashion plates who embodied the glamour, strength and elegance that have inspired throughout his career.

Dennis Basso celebrates his 30th anniversary collection during New York Fashion Week Fall 2013-14 collections with a tribute to great American fashion icons such as Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness and Milicent

Houston designer Cesar Galindo says his Czar collection that he'll show at New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 collections will be dress driven with flirty separates and novelty accessories for a stylish sophisticated woman.

Houston designer Cesar Galindo says his Czar collection that he'll show at New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 collections will be dress driven with flirty separates and novelty accessories for a stylish

Houston designer Cesar Galindo says his Czar collection that he'll show at New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 collections will be dress driven with flirty separates and novelty accessories for a stylish sophisticated woman.

Houston designer Cesar Galindo says his Czar collection that he'll show at New York Fashion Week's fall 2013-14 collections will be dress driven with flirty separates and novelty accessories for a stylish

Max Azria and his wife, Lubov Azria say their BCBG fall collection 2013-14 is Eastern inspired with a nod to the beautiful history inlaid within the walls of Istanbul architecture and the eclectic style of the gypsies of Southern Europe.

Max Azria and his wife, Lubov Azria say their BCBG fall collection 2013-14 is Eastern inspired with a nod to the beautiful history inlaid within the walls of Istanbul architecture and the eclectic style of the

Max and Lubov Azria, the team behind the Herve Leger label say that the collection has been synonymous with glamour and sensuality. The bandage dress, the collection's signature look, sculpts the body and perfectly accentuates the curves of the female form. They plan to send out many at the couple's fall 2013-14 show during New York Fashion Week.

Max and Lubov Azria, the team behind the Herve Leger label say that the collection has been synonymous with glamour and sensuality. The bandage dress, the collection's signature look, sculpts the body and

Designer Brando Sun says his fall 2013-14 collection that he'll show in New York during Fashion Week will include silhouettes that drape and have contrasting shapes. He's pushing proportion and experimenting with fabric treatments.

Designer Brando Sun says his fall 2013-14 collection that he'll show in New York during Fashion Week will include silhouettes that drape and have contrasting shapes. He's pushing proportion and experimenting

Designer Elie Tahari says he designs pieces that the classic, modern, and stylish woman wants. Here's a sketch of his fashion vision for next fall when he presents his collection during New York's Fashion Week when the fall 2013-14 collections will be presented.

Designer Elie Tahari says he designs pieces that the classic, modern, and stylish woman wants. Here's a sketch of his fashion vision for next fall when he presents his collection during New York's Fashion Week

Max and Lubov Azria, the team behind the Herve Leger label say that the collection has been synonymous with glamour and sensuality. The bandage dress, the collection's signature look, sculpts the body and perfectly accentuates the curves of the female form. They plan to send out many at the couple's fall 2013-14 show during New York Fashion Week.

Max and Lubov Azria, the team behind the Herve Leger label say that the collection has been synonymous with glamour and sensuality. The bandage dress, the collection's signature look, sculpts the body and

Designer Monika Chiang says her fall 2013-14 fall collection that she will present during New York Fashion Week will feature many a drop shoulder and unexpected volume. She's also experimenting with new fabric treatments.

Designer Monika Chiang says her fall 2013-14 fall collection that she will present during New York Fashion Week will feature many a drop shoulder and unexpected volume. She's also experimenting with new fabric

Designer Rachel Zoe's fall 2013-14 collectiont that she will present during New York Fashion Week drew inspiration from the 1970s equestrian lifestyle. She also was interested in incorporating romantic menswear elements and intricate baroque detailing with something tougher and edgier.

Designer Rachel Zoe's fall 2013-14 collectiont that she will present during New York Fashion Week drew inspiration from the 1970s equestrian lifestyle. She also was interested in incorporating romantic menswear

Suno designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis will send out garments they say are made of "medieval tapestries and jacquards" for Suno's Fall 2013-14 collection. Looks will be modernized through structured silhouettes and contrasting proportions.

Suno designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis will send out garments they say are made of "medieval tapestries and jacquards" for Suno's Fall 2013-14 collection. Looks will be modernized through structured

Knits, mixed textures and vibrant color will be among the offerings from the Custo Barcelona collection.

Knits, mixed textures and vibrant color will be among the offerings from the Custo Barcelona collection.

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Max Azria and his wife, Lubov Azria say their BCBG fall collection 2013-14 is Eastern inspired with a nod to the beautiful history inlaid within the walls of Istanbul architecture and the eclectic style of the gypsies of Southern Europe.

Max Azria and his wife, Lubov Azria say their BCBG fall collection 2013-14 is Eastern inspired with a nod to the beautiful history inlaid within the walls of Istanbul architecture and the eclectic style of the

American designers kick off the fall 2013 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week collections Thursday with more than 80 runway shows planned under the Lincoln Center tents and at nearby Alice Tully Hall and the New York Library. In all, more than 100,000 guests will view the works of designers spread over eight days.

Across Manhattan at other venues, dozens of other designers - Ralph Lauren, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and more - join the lineup with emerging talent.

What trends, colors, silhouettes - and more notably, fresh ideas - will surface next season?

The consensus among 30 designers who offered a sneak peek is the coming fall will deliver refreshed interpretations of style and sophistication via comfortable and multifunctional clothes that can take a woman day into night.

More experimentation abounds: Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis of Suno will send out silhouettes "that flair in unusual places," Katarina Grey will play with volume and shape, Monika Chiang has created prints that integrate matte and gloss elements in patterns, and she also has experimented with bonding unusual fabrics together such as wool to jersey and neoprene.

And lace, a favorite among designers the last several seasons, is getting reworked with combinations of leather, patent leather and neoprene (maybe fall's hottest material) from Carmen Marc Valvo, Tadashi Shoji, Pamella Roland and Joanna Mastroianni.

Even fur, whether real or faux, is getting a makeover. Dennis Basso is making his look like plaid. "I've never seen anything like it, and it is very innovative for us," he said.

Also in the mix is fashion's continued fascination with bold color that will offset the season's predictable but elegant black as well as winter whites.

Designers, like their customers, also have learned to do more with less. They know too well that many of today's American women are frugal fashionistas, inured to saving money when it comes to the contents of their closets.

Basso, who celebrates his 30th anniversary as a designer this year, couldn't agree more. He said the days of "living in a world of extreme excess is not something that can last forever." So these days he discourages women from a "spontaneous, spur-of-the-moment purchase," and instead, suggests they splurge on "something that can truly be incorporated into your life with longevity in mind."

That would be classics - whether it's a dress, skirt, jacket or coat, the latter being something of which Basso is particularly fond, especially in three-quarter length. "It's a wise purchase, as it is versatile. It works with pants during the day or a cocktail dress at night," he said.

Stylist/reality TV star/designer Rachel Zoe also wants women to "opt for classics" next fall. Toward that end she'll send out romantic menswear-influenced garments such as mohair sweaters, leather sequin tops and her favorite, a three-piece printed suede suit.

"This season feels a little tougher and a little moodier than anything I've done in the past," she said, adding she will work with baroque and medieval embellishments on luxurious fabrics. Her sharply tailored silhouettes, many of them androgynous, also are set in "darker, moodier tones" (words echoed by other designers) with a color palette to match.

Elie Tahari, who celebrates a milestone of 40 years in the business, will work with the rich hues of navy, green, slate and carbon - "colors of the urban landscape" on "new proportion" silhouettes that will include raw-edged leather trims on vests and coats, and inset zipper detailing on slim-fit trousers.

Shoji, a favorite among actresses during movie award season, will send out looks destined for a night out. "I experimented with back volume," he said. "I love the juxtaposition of a simple silhouette in the front and unexpected drama in the back."

He'll work with red lace and tulle to create a tea-length cocktail dress. More practical offerings will include draped capes - his favorite is a utilitarian design in black neoprene with a lace overlay for "a chic addition to outerwear."

Hoffman also believes in offering unique ready-to-wear outerwear and will do so with printed bomber jackets and her signature intarsia and jacquard sweaters she created with embroidery techniques "we haven't used before."

Tfank is working with "something so very new" - reversible brocades. She'll send out jackets and dresses in the fabric and other dresses in shimmering silk floral prints. She said brocades are lighter than ever "and are so technologically advanced that they can be enjoyed year round."

Gregory Parkinson, like Tfank, is in favor of seasonless garments. "Global warming is the most influential factor in fall fashion," he said. "We are really seeing more layering and a less-defined seasonal dress code." So, he's sticking with a resort-like collection for fall: lightweight, easy clothing in patterns and texture - most of it in black because "I wanted drama and volume."

Husband-and-wife duo Max and Lubov Azria are designers of the BCBGMaxAzria line known for its colorful and lightweight layered dresses and the Hervé Léger collection of banded dresses.

Lubov Azria, the company's creative officer, said both collections will include more sportswear and separates than ever before, a direct result of "addressing customers' needs."

Both collections also will feature longer dresses as well as tunic-styled dresses; handbags and shoes will be menswear inspired.

The couple's Hervé Léger collection of tight dresses also will reference street-sport elements and the line will offer leggings, skirts and jackets.

"Our bandage dress sculpts the body and perfectly accentuates the curves of the female form," she said. "Women tell me they feel sensual, yet powerful at the same time."

Vivienne Tam also designs for a commanding woman and has done so with a collection she said will deliver "a harder edge."

Working with bold colors such as red, Army green and black, she said her collection will include statement jackets and dresses that will be "very graphic and, in a way, rebellious. We achieved this through lots of attention to detail, in particular to pockets, zippers and military accents."

She said her designs often are influenced by art and culture and appeal to a woman who is "self-aware and global. … I want her to be able to wear my clothes anywhere, anytime because it is relevant to her everyday life."