Shape

Cavity shape is also important. In a temperate climate, with a few, intense nectar flows, taller comb and a shorter hive length works better. The bees can backfill a larger broodnest before storing surplus honey. That insures the best possible conditions for survival during a bad season. And the cluster is in a more compact shape resulting in better over wintering.

In warmer locales, with more frequent but less intense flows, a longer top bar hive with a shorter combs is more functional. The shorter combs allow the beekeeper to harvest surplus honey, which might be inaccessible if stored only in taller broodnest combs. A cluster is a long, shallow box would have more surface area which might be easier to cool during the hottest times of the year.

Accommodations

This northern climate hive is wider and deeper than Scott’s hive shown above. Deep frames fit beneath the top bar. A handy feature for those with both top bar and Langstroth hives.

If a beekeeper runs conventional hives along with tbhs, a hive that can fit standard frames beneath a top bar is useful. This allows a standard frame to be fastened to a top bar. Then the entire frame can be removed or eventually incorporated into the natural comb structure.

Or a hive can be designed so standard frames set in place of a top bar. That converts a top bar hive into a long hive. Since frames are self spacing, gaps will be left between the frames and adjacent top bars. A cloth inner cover is used in such a case.

Sloped Sides

Part of my sloped sidewall test in progress. Sidewall slopes were tested at 22.5, 19, 8, and 0 degrees off vertical.

It was thought that sloped sides reduced comb attachments. I’ve experimented with different slopes and found no difference. The bees will attach comb to a sidewall when more support is needed. Sloped sides are aesthetic. But they add more complexity to the construction, especially for someone with limited tools or wood working experience.

End Space

Spacer cleats set on top of the hive body ends. They are a way to provide a bee space at each end of the hive.

Additional space is needed between the end combs and the tbh. Without it, the bees attach the end combs to the hive body making them difficult to remove. Usually 1/4″ to 3/8″ will suffice.

Some beekeepers manually provide that space and use it as an upper entrance.

A spacer cleat can be fastened along the top edge of each end to provide the proper clearance. It’s easy to alter a top bar for this purpose. And a removable spacer cleat provides access to the back side of the last comb when all top bars have comb.

Legs

Tbhs can have legs which:

raise the hive to a comfortable working height

place the entrance above grass and pests

make a fantastic looking honey cow

But honey cows are:

difficult to move

are tall and top-heavy

a hand cart is useless

can’t be stacked

Removable legs can be used. But they require much more effort and time. And removing them creates more hive disturbance when it’s best to work fast with as little disturbance as possible.

Hive Stands

Hive stands are another way to get most of the benefits of legs without all the hassles. I consider them an accessory and write about them there.

Entrance

A top bar hive used to test entrance preferences. This hive had entrances on the end and the side.

Bees have entrance preferences. But they are flexible regarding a hive entrance. Bees will select a cavity with the proper size and shape. Then they work with whatever kind of entrance it has.

Beekeepers build tbhs with entrances:

in an end

at the bottom between bottom boards

at the top by removing a top bar and raising the cover

along a side

End

End entrances work great for migratory beekeepers. And when hives radiate out from a central working space.

Bottom

A bottom entrance works great on a tbh with legs. The entrance is above the grass. Drains freely. And can incorporate a bottom screen.

Top

A top entrance is a great solution for a legless tbh. It gets the entrance away from grass and pests, especially skunks. If facilitates supering.

Side

Side entrances are great when hives placed along a wall or in rows.

When given a choice, my thb bees preferred a side entrance at the bottom edge of the hive body. Such an entrance provides more ventilation and a shorter travel path than an end entrance. If used with sloped sides, a side entrance is suitable for a migratory operation.

During winter, a side entrance, when faced south, exposes the long side of the hive to more direct solar energy than other entrance configurations.

Lifting Cleats

Just how does a person adjust the position of a heavy, legless top bar hive? Lifting cleats are a neat solution. They can be staggered to give air space, yet allow tight stacking for a migratory beekeeper.