What It's Like to Vacation in Cuba

One traveler's account of landing in Cuba the day US travel sanctions were lifted.

Now that the US travel sanctions on Cuba have been lifted, the island is officially available to put on your vacation radar. The destination—which has not been open to Americans since 1962—is full of undiscovered sights, beauty and culture. But what is it really like touching down on the land that has been blacklisted by Americans for so many decades? Joe Diaz, co-founder of travel magazine AFAR, boarded a plane to Cuba the day that the US travel sanctions were officially lifted to check it out. BAZAAR sat down with Diaz to get all of the scoop on Cuban travel—from where to stay to what to do and all the highlights in-between.

HB: You landed in Cuba the day the US travel sanctions were lifted, what was the atmosphere like?JD: It was a fascinating time to be there. We got on a plane the day the travel sanctions were lifted and landed in Havana the next morning. I'd say people were optimistic. I spoke with the taxi driver from the airport and he was very cautiously optimistic. One of our guides, who was a professor, was excited— he wanted to welcome all Americans with open arms and that was exciting to hear. Overall people seemed very excited about the decision that the Obama and Castro administrations had made.

HB: Where did you stay during your time visiting?JD: We were in Havana for four days, we stayed in a casa particular, which is private, almost like a bed and breakfast, very basic but clean and very livable—and very affordable. Casa particulars in Havana go for about $30 US dollars a night. So, for about $30 US dollars you get your own room in a private home, hot water, your own bathroom and shower. Breakfast was only $5 extra per night and it was located right in the old part of Havana—it was great.

HB: Are there a lot of hotels in Cuba? What's the hospitality scene like?JD: There are hotels, but in terms of high end hotels— that's tougher. There are a couple of what they call "5 star hotels" which really by American standards would be 3 to a maybe low 4 star. They're expensive because the room inventory isn't great and there's a decent amount of demand. You see hotels at that level going anywhere from $300-$500 a night. So it's not cheap, but there are a lot of casa particulars to choose from as an alternative.

HB: What was the highlight of your trip?JD: We spent a lot of time walking the city. One of the ways we try to learn a city is just by walking it, meeting folks along our way and having conversations with them. Every restaurant or bar we went to we had conversations with either the owner, the bartender, or the waiter. At one of the places that we went, I believe it was called Nardos, we met the head captain of the restaurant who has actually been to the US. He told us the average income overall is $20-$30 a month. People in tourism can make anywhere from $200 to thousands of dollars a month because of tips. The captain's wife has a yoga studio, so we ended up going back to his house the next day and actually taking yoga classes in the backyard with a bunch of Cubans. It was really interesting seeing all these other businesses that people have and how they work. They are a very innovative, resourceful people—very entrepreneurial.

HB: Were most of the Cubans receptive to Americans there on holiday?JD: Yes, they see dollar signs. There are about 3 million people that go to Cuba every year, so they see an enormous opportunity. With Americans they see more investment, more tourism dollars to be pumped into their economy, which will create more opportunity for people. Tourism is really one of the most direct ways to get money into the hands of the people, especially if you're staying in a casa particular. If you're eating at the private restaurants, that money goes directly to the Cubans.

HB: What is the shopping scene like? JD: I think there are shopping opportunities around there. You've got to be smart about what's good and what's not, what you like and what you don't. There are great opportunities for purchasing art—which is what I would spend my money on while visiting there. There are markets but it really just tends to be plazas as you walk around with different little shops and places.

HB: Did you pick up any souvenirs while you where there?JD: Yeah, ironically enough we bought some cigars. You're now able to bring back tobacco to the US—I think the limit is $100. I was fascinated with the art, I didn't bring any back, but I met a Cuban in Charleston on my trip back, Reynier Llanes. He is under the wing of one of America's most well-known artists named Jonathan Green. Llanes escaped Cuba when he was 25, he's 30 now. He got on a boat and landed on one of the Keys in South Florida and I fell in love with his work. He actually paints with coffee because in Cuba materials are really limited.

HB: What's one thing Americans should be prepared for before going to Cuba? How can someone prep before jetting off?JD: I think mentally prepare for the lack of press-button comfort, things that you're used to in other tourist destinations won't be there—wi-fi, credit cards—so you have to bring a decent amount of cash with you. I think people that are going there should really be prepared to connect in a deeper way with the culture. People are extremely friendly, but they're also looking to make a dollar. Know that in engaging in conversation with folks, if you're trying to get a window into their world that's great, but also be prepared for people to expect a tip or commission for that. That's how they generally make their money. Anybody befriending you is usually looking for an economic incentive to do so.

HB: Overall, did you feel safe while you were there?JD: 100%, people always ask that question. In Cuba there are virtually no guns—even the police officers have to check their weapons at the door when they leave to go home every night, they leave the guns at the station. Like any other highly touristed area, you're going to get petty theft. We were walking in some pretty interesting neighborhoods and at no point did we have any issues—[this was] generally during the day. I think as long as you're smart and play by the rules and use your head, you're going to be in good shape.

HB: Would you recommend vacationing to Cuba?JD: Cuba is a fascinating place and there's a lot going on, you can feel the changes happening, they're happening underneath your feet when you're there. But at the end of the day, most Americans are not going to be ready for Cuba and Cuba isn't quite ready for most American travelers. I say that because it lacks the infrastructure, the number of hotel rooms. The roads are tough, getting around can be a little bit challenging, using Wi-Fi is practically impossible—you need to go to those 5 star hotels to use it. Using your credit cards is extremely difficult. It doesn't have the comforts a lot of the other Caribbean and Mexican neighbors, but I will say if you can look past all of those things it's an incredible experience. You're going to get a slice of the Caribbean you just won't get in any other place—the diversity, energy, innovation, warmth, music, the culture, the art—all of those things are extremely powerful and you feel that right away when you get there.

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