Topics in Category: General Forums - Glasspar Forumshttp://classicglasspars.com
Fri, 22 Feb 2019 13:07:50 +0000Joomla! - Open Source Content Management/media/kunena/images/icons/rss.pngTopics in Category: General Forums - Glasspar Forumsen-gbPlease help me with this site . . . - by: John_Phttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26668&Itemid=219#29824
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Thank you for this site and for coming on to post and get more activity going here.

I for one do miss the activity we had here at one time. I would like to see us plan some "get togethers" around the U.S. for our Glasspar Owners. I know that some of us are "spread far apart" but I always enjoyed the GTG'S with other Glasspar Owners. I would be willing to try and organize and event here in eastern N.C. if we could get some good participation. Thanks again.]]>General ForumsThu, 08 Nov 2018 15:16:49 +0000Join a Glasspar Group! - by: boatERhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=409&Itemid=219&limitstart=18#29706
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Danny]]>General ForumsSun, 09 Oct 2016 01:56:40 +0000Member's boat galleries . . . - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=13674&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29344
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Charlie_N wrote: I am not seeing the MEMBER MENU even after logging out and logging back in. What am I missing.
Charlie N

Charlie,

Michael McKinney is working diligently to rebuild the site after it had been hacked. He does his best to work this in between his real job and family. Given the extent of the rebuild, it may take some time before all aspects of the site is up again.

George]]>General ForumsThu, 03 Mar 2016 17:53:46 +0000Glasspar G3 Owners Association Members Registry. - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26211&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#28686
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26211&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#28686General ForumsMon, 14 Sep 2015 18:17:08 +0000Bill Tritt Tribute - by: Matthewhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=18187&Itemid=219#27819
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I attempted buying the Green Dolphin in Santa Barbara (where I lived for many years) that had belonged to John Green we had sailed in the late 40's, but wasn't quick enough coming back from the bank. For those of you that don't already know, these boats were male molded, each one having to be sanded down to create a proper surface for painting. LOTS of work!

ing.
Charlie]]>General ForumsSat, 30 Jun 2018 01:19:40 +00001968 Avalon spotlight cable. - by: lwetherbeehttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26667&Itemid=219#29819
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26667&Itemid=219#29819General ForumsWed, 16 May 2018 17:28:00 +0000Is anybody home? - by: Charlie Tunahttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26666&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29818
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I am going to fasten with screws]]>General ForumsSat, 14 Apr 2018 14:06:56 +0000Re-power for 1966 Avalon - by: mvislanderhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26662&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29799
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The top cylinder had a cylinder liner that was pressed in incorrectly. The cylinder was rotated so that the piston ports were not lined up. The top piston was also a different size than the bottom two, and all of the pistons were too small for their respective bores!

Charlie N]]>General ForumsThu, 27 Apr 2017 02:56:57 +000059 seafair sedan questions - by: ianmoorehttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26177&Itemid=219&limitstart=72#29779
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As the sun is slowly creeping out and temperatures are moving towards not freezing, I am preparing my boat for another summer. I had a few questions and queries for the Glasspar world.

Firstly, I have had my kicker motor sitting on the transom. I bought a motor bracket for it. When I rebuilt the transom, i did so to the original specs, 1 1/2" with about 1/4" additional glass. My merc 115 weight 290lbs, so I'd prefer to mount the bracket on the port side of the transom, behind the gunwhales. Has anyone had any experience with mounting it this way and have any thoughts on this?

I also have the lovely side saddle aluminum tanks. I mounted them the best way I could think of at the time, but they have a slight slant to them and I would love to either lift them up higher, where they are more parallel, or at the very least, find a better way to mount them. Would love ideas on this.

-in the cuddy-I am looking for a good way to mount the hatch gasket along the seam under the window. I put adhesive on and tried to use various clothes pin type things to get it so properly seal. That didn't work too well. How do you guys get the hatch gasket tight around this area(in pic)

any good solutions for the cuddy ceiling? I have a headliner from a '62, but it's plastic and seems like it would fall apart pretty quickly. I know one fellow use wood across the ceiling. Trying to find an elegant way to do that!]]>General ForumsFri, 14 Apr 2017 18:43:13 +00001965 w a yne 100 - by: rayrayhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26661&Itemid=219#29778
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26661&Itemid=219#29778General ForumsSat, 08 Apr 2017 04:45:16 +0000Tri-Five Avalon - by: Jayarrghhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26566&Itemid=219&limitstart=72#29777
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JR (Jerry)

]]>General ForumsThu, 06 Apr 2017 15:27:20 +0000Ain’t She Purty? - by: Terrydihttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26634&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29770
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26634&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29770
This is what I used on my Sedan and it was a perfect match.

Now to re-do the wiring system from the forward battery location to the new stern location. And changing from Honda wiring to more primitive OMC wiring. All fun, but challenging ::]]>General ForumsFri, 07 Oct 2016 17:39:18 +0000Transom drain hole from bilge - by: AyeAyeCapnhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26594&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29695
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Strangely but as can be expected, a couple weeks later I found the flip lever expanding plug that I originally removed. That ALWAYS happens! It wasn't very robust for something in that location, so I'm happy with the new configuration.]]>General ForumsSat, 24 Sep 2016 00:05:37 +0000Half a Glasspar... - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26476&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29694
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Last year my son and I bought a Day Cruiser from a guy for $4200, took it home, turned the power washer on it, removed the seats repaired a soft spot in the floor, cleaned the carpet, put in new gas and shifting cables, re stretched the carpet, cleaned, clayed, polished and waxed the exterior and sold it for $9500.00. Total investment $4500. Buyer was happy as were we, the ultimate definition of a "good deal".]]>General ForumsThu, 22 Sep 2016 03:35:34 +00001963 Citation - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26173&Itemid=219#29693
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26173&Itemid=219#29693
If it's that style, I can measure mine for you if need be?]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 22:12:14 +0000Bigger motor for my 1959 Glasspar Seafair? - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26084&Itemid=219&limitstart=18#29692
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26084&Itemid=219&limitstart=18#29692
Back when I worked for NOAA Pacific Tide Party (Tidal Surveys), we had a nice Seafair Sedan with twin 55HP Evinrudes as one of our trailer launches. That boat would pretty much fly. It would plane with one motor.

I have often debated finding a Seafair Sedan. I really like the boat. But I'm doing a Citation instead ...

An 85HP OMC (Johnson or Evinrude) should push that boat to 30+ I'd be looking into that engine for sure. I suspect you have low compression, or it needs a full tune-up and the timing reset ... With light fuel and only two aboard it should be tach'ing over 5,600 and pretty much moving right along ...

That's a "Gen II" version of the V4 with the improved crankcase so it made more power than the original Gen I (the Fat Fifty). It was still not the best of the OMC V4's, but it was a decent motor. It can suffer from carbon'd up rings (stuck) and be showing low compression. Or it may just be tired...

Unless you want to keep it "historically correct" I'd be looking for a newer motor with through hub exhaust. There are a bazillion V4 OMC's out there in the used market. A good 115 with known good compression will push that boat to 40'ish.

If you do want to keep it period correct, there are a lot of tweaks you can do to that engine to perk it right up An all original period correct boat/motor combo is pretty rare today. It's something to think about ...

Send me an email at woodlund at comcast dot net, and I'll send you what I have on the history and tweaks for the old V4 ]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 21:52:22 +0000evinrude Ski Twin 33 connection to ride guide cabl - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26315&Itemid=219#29691
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26315&Itemid=219#29691
I have a "steering tube" adapter for clamp on motors if it's needed?]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 21:36:12 +0000Does anyone know what this is? - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26397&Itemid=219#29690
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26397&Itemid=219#29690
Not worth trying to save, but looked like OEM install. The same type of mounting hardware and style as other accessories under the deck ...]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 21:28:10 +00001978 Evinrude 115 (115893C) Compression Check - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26383&Itemid=219#29689
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26383&Itemid=219#29689
Lots of ways to go about this and see if it can be improved.

If you can tilt it up and pull the plugs, you can shoot a big slug of Break-Free (carbon dissolving gun solvent) in each cylinder. To be really thorough, you need to have the piston above the ports so it'll soak w/o running into the crankcase ... So use a small dowel through the plug hole and feel the piston come up to the top while turning the flywheel by hand.. Shoot it in and let it sit over night. Do each cylinder on a successive day then put her back down and re-install the plugs. Fire the motor.

You can also do a piston soak with Stihl Chainsaw de-carbonizing solution. Same deal, Big slug in a closed cylinder over night.

The Sea-Foam in the gas will help. But it's not nearly as aggressive or thorough.

When you are all done with either of these treatments, you can shoot a big shot of Tri-Flow into each cylinder and then fire the motor. Tri-Flow has teflon which I have found to help keep freshly un-stuck rings free and moving on the pistons.

All this should get you what you can easily ... If successful (?), you should have over 100psi on a decent used motor.

If it's an upper cylinder that's low, it may have over heated and partially seized. Only cure for that is to hone and do new rings ...

Overheating can be cured by adding a new "piss" tube to the water jacket at the top and letting it go overboard where you can keep an eye on it. Don't need to bleed off much water. 1/8" tube is plenty ]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 18:56:54 +00001962 Citation - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26470&Itemid=219#29688
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26470&Itemid=219#29688

I have a 1962 Citation that I'm doing a resto-mod on. Was too trashed to keep the interior. Had been through a lot of motors and been a Calif Delta fishing boat, so holes in lots of places, cracks here and there, etc.

My floor (sole) had come away from the stringers and it squeaked and popped when you walked on it. Plus it had a spongy spot up forward where it had sat, nose down, for years with water in it ...

So I went about cutting out the soft spot and re-fastening the floor to the stringers. The stringers in my boat ('62 made in Santa Ana) were all fiberglass. They are about 2" wide on top, somewhat wider on the base. They are 7" on center across the hull.

What I did was to go buy the kind of "Molly Bolts" that have a plastic point to go through sheet-rock and spread out when you tighten them by folding the sides (not the kind with the spring loaded flip out wings). I drilled the top glass layer off the plywood with a 5/8" spade bit. Then I drilled a 1/4" inch hole through the plywood and the stringer top.

Once I had enough holes drilled in enough stringers, I'd mix up some epoxy and dribble some in each hole as I went. I'd dip the Molly Bolt in the tub of epoxy, stick it in the floor hole and crank it down with a cordless drill. It's messy work, but the molly bolts bite into the plywood and as they tighten up they pull the floor down against the stinger. The epoxy locks them in place and protects them for incidental moisture. Some epoxy will squeeze into the joint as they tighten down. So it's a pretty solid join when cured

It seems that the factory was cost conscious to a fault when they were building out-of-sight wood to glass attachments. 1.) it was polyester resin which does not bond all that great to wood, if the wood has any residual moisture at all; and 2.) they were starved bonds. I can see not flooding the bonds, but these were really spotty when I pulled things apart ...

I did a pattern of 7" laterally (to catch the stringers) by 8" longitudinally working out and along from the middle stinger - front to rear. Once it was cured, that baby got tight and the boat was/is a lot more stable feeling. No more pop's and squeaks. Really solid under foot

As long as I was about it, I also shot some expanding foam into each alternate under-deck cavity. I left the actual stringers open to allow forward-aft drainage, if water does get in between the hull and sole. That helped to make it sort of a "Boston-Whaler Jr" and stiffen the whole boat. The foam is not structural, but it adds to stiffness if there is enough of it. I would not use foam for a boat that is in the water a lot. It can get wet and rot/mildew. But for a 99% air dry trailer boat - no biggie

This year I will be going back in to add a bilge pump in the under seat area into the main middle stringer cavity. Small diameter Rule and a float switch with a Pop-Out deck plate. Yeah it'll mean cutting away the top of the stringer. But, it's surrounded by acres of plywood and glass deck in the middle of the boat. And the basic strength/stiffness of the stringers is in their sidewall anyway.

I have a small one-way leak somewhere... You can fill the boat with water on the trailer (under floor and above) and nothing shows. But, put it in the water and it will pick up a quart or two in a days outing. I'm going overnight boat-camping in the next few years on lake Powell and Chelan, so I'll let the bilge pump handle the accumulation.

Note: that if you want to run a small depth sounder and try a glue-in transducer, in the inner hull, it prolly won't work ... A big powerful unit that fires a multi-crystal transducer with some actual wattage - yeah sure that'll work fine. But these hulls have enough glass and resin that even out 11" from the center line, my little Humminbird in-dash will not shoot through the hull. I tested all the parts before install, and I only get an occasional return signal/depth...]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 18:28:52 +0000HP Rating - 1962 Citation ?? - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26647&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29684
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26647&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29684]]>General ForumsWed, 21 Sep 2016 15:56:02 +0000transom thickness - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26637&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29683
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26637&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29683

One side is dead flat, one is slightly irregular. Usually has the letters HDO and Form other Side written in large letters. Bonds well with slow set epoxy as long as you rough the surface with a 60 grit sander or so. Takes fasteners well. The hardwood layers take penetrating epoxy well on all fresh edge cuts

Can be ordered at most any lumber yard that sells in bulk to contractors

OBTW - fooling around building a motor stand for a 1970's bolt-on OMC - about the max built up thickness you can use and have wiggle room for the top "lips" of the transom bracket is 2 3/4" ... If the top edges are eased with router, you could get close to 3", but I don't know if that would fit on completely? I don't know what Merc needs ...

I'll bet a G-3 with a 60 is still fun under the right conditions ]]>General ForumsSat, 17 Sep 2016 14:50:25 +0000It followed me home, not adding to the fleet - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26538&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29665
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I live in Fresno and that boat is long gone. Wish now that I had not scrapped it. Just saw me filling up space with old boats and possibly making my daughter in law think I'd lost my mind since its on their property that I store these things.
Jack]]>General ForumsSat, 17 Sep 2016 11:31:57 +0000Washington State ? - by: woodlundhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26434&Itemid=219&limitstart=18#29662
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26434&Itemid=219&limitstart=18#29662]]>General ForumsSat, 17 Sep 2016 02:31:09 +0000Glasspar Argosy? - by: Terrydihttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26636&Itemid=219#29641
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26636&Itemid=219#29641
I put those brochures up at FGC so let’s see if anyone there has more history on the Argosy.

Also notice in the “Enjoy Yourself” ad George posted, the boats shown on top are all the Seafairs starting with the Sedan and followed by the open Sportsman and Sunliner. At the bottom is the Ventura and the Argosy. Don’t know why the Marathon is stuck in between the two but it does give the ad a more symmetrical look.

By 66 Glasspar had rounded out the line for a larger runabout with the Newporter 2200.

Thanks,
Terry]]>General ForumsSat, 10 Sep 2016 17:46:14 +0000original parts - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26642&Itemid=219#29635
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As far as I know it's correct. Initially thought it was only the 1965 model, but then pointed out that Brian Slager's (Florida Glasspar Group) 1964 had the same light. Since then, several owners of the same years show up. I've only seen the lights on eBay once or twice. Again, I wouldn't think they were produced by Glasspar, but had some contract to use these lights for these particular years.

As you can see on ours, the green lens has turned to blue. Haven't been able to find a replacement lens....

I suppose you heard the Draken Expedition did not make it up to Duluth as planned. And there are lots of disappointed Scandinavians up dere yah know. They are making their way back now and will navigate the NY canal system to the east coast.

Thanks,
Terry]]>General ForumsThu, 18 Aug 2016 12:49:42 +0000G-3 for love of life - by: lonewolfhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26625&Itemid=219#29569
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Thanks for the input Am a member of both groups ! regards ... pete]]>General ForumsSun, 07 Aug 2016 20:27:07 +0000Bilge - by: AyeAyeCapnhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26624&Itemid=219#29559
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26624&Itemid=219#29559General ForumsSat, 06 Aug 2016 00:05:57 +0000Zolatone paint color - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26618&Itemid=219#29553
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26618&Itemid=219#29553
both were great looking. I would love to do a blue based paint in my sons Seafair Sedan.]]>General ForumsFri, 05 Aug 2016 03:36:11 +0000Steering cable replacement - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26613&Itemid=219#29544
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26613&Itemid=219#29544
Checking in from the road. Currently in Schuyler Nebraska. Lots of corn here (and not much else...). Taking a tour of the local meat packing plant on Friday. Told they "process" 5,600 cows a day! That's a lot of steak!! This is one of the plants designed by Temple Grandin. Apparently, she still comes once a year as a special guest.

Found a good discussion on the cable/pulley system on iBoats:
forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-...able-pulley-steering
Length would vary depending on if your cables ran down both sides of the boat or just to one side. Wondered if a coated metal clothesline would work(?) It's mentioned in this article. Can be bought cheap at most hardware stores, so just cut to length.

The SOS G-3 came with a cable/pulley system. Decided to change to a normal rack and pinion system when choosing the larger motor. I might still have the old pulley hardware laying around at the house, if you need it.

]]>General ForumsTue, 21 Jun 2016 14:29:03 +0000Cracked aluminum handle - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26326&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29428
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Jack]]>General ForumsWed, 15 Jun 2016 04:04:08 +0000Cabin window replacement - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26585&Itemid=219#29422
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26585&Itemid=219#29422
George]]>General ForumsSun, 12 Jun 2016 16:04:13 +0000Moving the Mary Diane? - by: Jayarrghhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26595&Itemid=219#29408
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26595&Itemid=219#29408 However, I am sure there are members here who have not heard of or been following the Mary Diane rescue project. I found this info post by George Bell back in 2010 which has a link to the backstory and pictures that may help get new GOA members up to speed on the MD.

"In case it wasn't seen on the main forum, Eddie asked me to repost here for the Florida group.

Realized there are a lot of new folks on here that are not familiar with this story so I thought I would share.

--we does what's we can ..... nothing boaters like more than other boaters (except boats of course)
Best,
tom]]>General ForumsFri, 13 May 2016 17:29:58 +0000Reinforcing the transom - 16' 1972 Avalon - by: AyeAyeCapnhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26277&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29359
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26277&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29359
Think the plan will be to 1) add a inner "lip" to the transom so the motor well sits on the lip in the radius similar to original (MUCH will still be on the new transom, just need support on the outer 1/3 each side), and, 2) move the side braces forward to accept the new front position. Will fabricate the "lip" with quality 1" (thick) x 1-1/2 to 2" vertical and epoxy and SS crew to the new transom. As is, the motor well is flush at the center-line of the transom, and the bolt centers for motor mouting are very close to the center-line, will shim (large SS washers) between motor well and transom if necessary. Thanks for you input!]]>General ForumsFri, 13 May 2016 00:01:05 +0000Another One - by: Jayarrghhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26582&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29286
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26582&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29286

gwbell wrote: Jerry,

I don't do Facebook, but would you please post a link to the page so we can all enjoy.

Thank You!

George

I would love to have all you here in the GOA follow what is happening on the Golden State Glassics facebook page, but it is a closed group. I don't know who set it up that way but the posts there are visible only to members of the group. To become a FB group member ; you need to join GSG (
goldenstateglassics.com
), also join Facebook, and then ask to be included in the FB GSG group. It is way too complicated IMHO. There has been some talk about linking the FB page to the main website but nothing has happened yet. So right now, a lot of good stuff gets posted on FB that only a few people can see.

George, I know you are a member of the GSG, perhaps you can help advocate easier access to the FB GSG page for all who are interested.

In order to post pictures here you gotta make em real small. 100kb or less.

Thanks,
Terry]]>General ForumsThu, 14 Apr 2016 11:20:40 +0000Who needs Emblems! - by: clduncanhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=20398&Itemid=219&limitstart=36#29264
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=20398&Itemid=219&limitstart=36#29264General ForumsThu, 14 Apr 2016 02:12:35 +0000Gull Lake ACBS Show pictures - by: Terrydihttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26579&Itemid=219#29251
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26579&Itemid=219#29251
Without a doubt this was one of the best shows I have ever seen. I could have easily filled that complete issue with pictures.

How about a 1922 Hacker with a Liberty V12 400 hp WW1 aircraft engine. ‘Apache II’

Better yet a 1931 Hacker with Packard 800 hp engine ‘Lock Pat II’

Hear it run:

Gar Wood Packard Liberty V12 on display at Minnesota Maritime Museum

Terry]]>General ForumsMon, 11 Apr 2016 15:30:49 +0000WOT - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26577&Itemid=219#29250
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26577&Itemid=219#29250
As mentioned, it has been years since we've had our Sedan out, but what I recall, we were getting about that 38 to 40 mph range. That was two people aboard and measured by our old speedo. Water conditions were fairly decent chop. 1967 Merc 1100SS (110-hp) with 3-blade 15-pitch aluminum prop.

I'm sure your rubrail is the same as the one on my Tri-Five Avalon. That design goes over the hull / deck joint instead of being inserted into an aluminum channel as in later models. That means exact fit is less of an issue for us (I hope). I have not ordered any as yet for my '56 Avalon but it looks to me like WEFCO Profile 0001 G LG is the right one. If you get something that you like be sure to post about it here so I can use it too.

-JR (Jerry)

]]>General ForumsMon, 04 Apr 2016 13:33:35 +0000Installing rubber window moldings - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26572&Itemid=219#29158
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26572&Itemid=219#29158
Jack]]>General ForumsThu, 31 Mar 2016 01:40:26 +0000FINALLY,.....Found Cover For Our Seafair Sedan!! - by: ianmoorehttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=23982&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29152
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=23982&Itemid=219&limitstart=12#29152
My concern, and this is just from a visual, but the sea choice seems to be a tighter fit and I worry that it may be to shy on the sides. Does anyone have experience with these or any other models?
Thanks
Ian]]>General ForumsTue, 29 Mar 2016 23:24:46 +00001960 Price List - by: Jayarrghhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26567&Itemid=219#29128
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26567&Itemid=219#29128
-JR (Jerry)]]>General ForumsFri, 18 Mar 2016 18:12:57 +0000Lets do some boating!! - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26564&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29113
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26564&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#29113
Admittedly, I just have an aversion to long drives. Never did care for them, but anymore, after about 4-hours on the road, I'm looking for a hotel... The Glasppar luncheons we've held test my limits for driving in one day.

My wife and I have discussed a road trip to visit our youngest son in Ohio. Both of us are the same about driving and laughingly recognize it would probably take us about three weeks to get there....

We'll see what happens for October, but I can't make any promises. I really do appreciate the invite, tho.

George]]>General ForumsMon, 14 Mar 2016 17:13:42 +00001959 Trident restoration - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26468&Itemid=219&limitstart=24#29112
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26468&Itemid=219&limitstart=24#29112
There are various tools out there if you do a web search. Here's one;
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1022

Possibly moving the Meridian (AKA Mary Diane) to the Fresno area giving better access to the group to work on her restoration. I'll discuss this with Michael to get his thoughts. We'd need a commitment from one of the Fresno members with property to see if this could work.

Possibly setting up a boat meet in California with the folks from the Golden State Glassics (GSG). Millerton Lake was suggested, but surprised to see afterwards that they've banned our older 2-stroke motors

More to come on these thoughts. I did want to thank those that did attend! Too bad Eddie and Matt were not able to make it. Eddie had a death in his family, so please keep him and his family in your thoughts and prayers.

Now that we know what the "UFO" is, I would like to know more. Information about the 1964 Glasspar product line is sparse which may explain why we have not heard of these models. Apparently they didn't stay in production long and perhaps not many were made but I still think this was an interesting design.

seattle.craigslist.org/see/bpo/5401307012.html
]]>General ForumsTue, 19 Jan 2016 01:50:57 +0000Glasspars on Wheels - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26540&Itemid=219#28962
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26540&Itemid=219#28962
Makes me wonder if some deal was made with Glasspar at the time, since the other boats shown seemed to be only Glasspars.

Figure if we keep the pressure on you will have to come.]]>General ForumsSun, 13 Dec 2015 18:31:54 +0000Mama Mia! needs another coat - by: Terrydihttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26398&Itemid=219&limitstart=42#28895
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26398&Itemid=219&limitstart=42#28895

edwardgrijalva6020 wrote: Sheer,If you look at the shape of a boat from the side, The top of the hull often curves up (or rarely down) at the bow and stern. This is sheer. Usually the bow and stern are higher to maximize the freeboard at the bow and stern where the boat meets waves. The curve at the keel level is called rocker.
When looking at the boat hull from the side, sheer is the line where the hull meets the gunwale.When prepping a Seafair hull for spraying, the Sheer line was masked, the hull was gel-coated white, you had just a few min. to peel off the masking tape than the sheer line was sprayed black and also the rest of the hull was sprayed black for back-up, it made it easier for the molders to lay-up or mold the hull and see any air voids.
This is what I remember, just my 2 cents worth.

Hey All,
Eddie gave this enlightening explanation in answer to my question regarding the sheer stripe application on Seafairs.
I just noticed in this article the bottom left photo shows the black stripe being spayed after the white had previously been sprayed in the lower section just as Eddie described.

Thanks Eddie,
Terry]]>General ForumsSun, 13 Dec 2015 17:32:34 +0000Someone save it? - by: Terrydihttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26521&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#28892
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26521&Itemid=219&limitstart=6#28892
I found 1962 price pages and in the notes it is mentioned the Seafairs were available with factory VP IO.

No price is listed but notice the picture caption above shows the Sedan retails for about $3795 which is also given for F.O.B. price on the used boat guide.

The adjustable bungee cords are great for cinching up something like this. I got those at Home Depot. The attached nylon line was inspired heaving lines on ships: the small lines they toss to shore and use to haul in the big hawser lines.]]>General ForumsWed, 02 Dec 2015 23:57:35 +0000San Diego area 1959 Lido project - by: 16againhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26526&Itemid=219#28861
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26526&Itemid=219#28861General ForumsTue, 01 Dec 2015 19:16:47 +0000Bimini Top - by: gwbellhttp://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26522&Itemid=219#28836
http://classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=2&id=26522&Itemid=219#28836
Sorry you didn't get an answer from your previous post on this subject:
classicglasspars.com/index.php?option=co...mid=545&limitstart=0

I thought Jerry (oldmariner) had something similar to what you were describing (i.e. just lays against the windshield). All of the original bimini's that I have seen, had snap buttons on the windshield and side support brackets.

Maybe if you post a couple of pics of what you have, someone here can help figure it out. You can email the pics and I'll post for you.