You CAN harm a Liteon, very easily, if you don't back up the EEPROM correctly - the EEPROM is the calibration for THAT drive, and if you have to resort to someone else's copy, you will lose quality.

I'd say, "keep your powder dry", and GET HOLD OF the hacked firmware if you think you might risk it (as it MAY get suppressed), but let wiser/braver/more foolish guys beat their drives up with it first.

You CAN harm a Liteon, very easily, if you don't back up the EEPROM correctly - the EEPROM is the calibration for THAT drive, and if you have to resort to someone else's copy, you will lose quality.

I'd say, "keep your powder dry", and GET HOLD OF the hacked firmware if you think you might risk it (as it MAY get suppressed), but let wiser/braver/more foolish guys beat their drives up with it first.

Only if you're actually stupid enough to even touch the EEPROM. In case you're not aware, the 812S@832S doesn't require anything to be done to the EEPROM. And unless someone goes *out of their way* to find tools to let them mess with the EEPROM (most of the available tools can't even touch that part of the drive, and most certainly nothing on my site has the ability to touch that part of the drive), there isn't even the risk of the EEPROM being accidentally damaged or changed.

The EEPROM does indeed change very often, in between burns, but is has been determined that the changes that take place between burns is merely diagnostic debugging data from the previous 4 burns being stored in the EEPROM, and it has no effect whatsoever on burn quality.

Simple truth is, there is absolutely no EEPROM-related risk whatsoever, as there is no chance of damaging that part of the drive (unless, of course, the person goes out of their way and seeks out the resources necessary to mess with that... as I said, no part of the firmware-flashing messes with that). Know what you're talking about before making your statements...

alaindelon we have tested the DRU700A conversion, it worked ok, so i assume the same goes for the 832S!

Thx ! I was just asking james_patagueul because, his pseudo makes him look like he's french... And So am I I pergectly understood that you already tried the 812S -> dru 700A, but I am careful with my brand new drive and asking for as many experiment as possible. Regards, AD

My personal recommendation right now is to ignore the 832S and upgrade to the new US0N firmware for the 812S. There has been a lengthy discussion about US0N at CD Freaks, and it seems that US0N is a very good firmware with what seems like improvements in burn quality. Incidentally, US0N is also dated about a month later than the VS01 firmware for the 832S (VS01 has a Apr. 16 timestamp, US0N has a May 15 timestamp).

So here's what you do: get the burn-adjusted US0N firmware and wait for a 832S firmware newer than VS01 comes out. Then you can try the upgrade using the newer 832S firmware. But right now, with the absense of DL media on the market, there's no point in using a month-old VS01 firmware when you can use a week-old US0N firmware! :)