In the 1940s and 1950s nylon
stockings were full-fashioned stockings,
as opposed to most modern stockings, which are 'one-size'. Full
fashioned stockings were tailored to the shape of the leg, and were
seamed up the back. The seam was an essential part of the stocking's construction,
as it held it together. This is unlike modern so-called 'seamed' stockings,
which are woven into a tube shape and which have a purely decorative 'seam'. Full-fashioned
stockings were made from silky non-stretch, gossamer nylon fabric (so
they couldn't be 'one-size'). In other words, take the seam out of full-fashioned
stockings and it will be un-wearable but a modern stocking could still
be worn.

Full
fashioned stockings are knitted on mills. They are still manufactured
today by a small number of companies, who tend to use either genuine, 1950s
machinery, or replicas of it. And they are still worn by women, such
as the well-known amateur lingerie model Sonia
Dane, who demand the luxury and elegance of genuine full-fashion stockings.
Stocking mills are huge machines - some are up to 60 feet long and 12 tons
in weight. With 16,000 needles per machine they need constant attention
and take one hour to produce only 30 legs. After manufacture each stocking
is seamed, one at a time. Once the stocking has been knitted, the seam
is added, giving the stocking its classic shape and fit. The 'finishing
loop' at the top back of the stocking is also a result of the finishing
process, and is created because the seaming machinist has to finish the
seam by turning the stocking top (called 'the welt') in a circle. The finishing
loop identifies a true full-fashioned
stocking.

Stockings are usually manufactured
white, then dyed different colors. After this, they're 'boarded' where
each stocking is pulled over a flat wooden or metal leg and steamed. This
tightens the knit, defines the leg shape and removes creases. Then each
stocking is checked for size to ensure pairs match. Quality control for
faults can mean 40% of production can be lost. Often, the old machinery
can only churn out 15 pairs of stockings per hour, so it's obviously not
a cost effective way of manufacturing. This means that full-fashioned
stockings are now a rarity, although thankfully you can still buy them.