Resort is losing its stuffy status

Sunday

Jan 31, 2010 at 12:01 AMJan 31, 2010 at 12:55 PM

The Greenbrier had never been on my life list, but now it seems I have some rewriting to do.

It's not that the rarefied resort in the rugged mountains of West Virginia didn't pique my interest. For one thing, no other property in the world features a Cold War-era bunker camouflaged by the drunken Palm Beach decor of Dorothy Draper.

Its guest registry draws from the upper echelons of society and politics and has included more than two dozen presidents. And unless you've vacationed during medieval times, few places offer falconry before lunch.

Yet a significant obstacle stood between me and those floral couches and birds of prey: the expense.

The Greenbrier would have remained someone else's dream trip had Jetsetter not reminded me of what I was missing.

The travel Web site tempts you to visit places you never intended to, or were too financially strapped to consider.

Every week the site, which was launched Sept. 30, posts staggered sales on eight to 10 luxury properties or trips around the world. Members, who must be invited to join by other Jetsetters or put their name on a waiting list, have three days to book.

The discounts are substantial, from 30 percent to 60 percent off. For the Greenbrier, that translated to $160 for an intermediate room, compared with the going rate of $345, and $190 for a deluxe room.

I succumbed to the pressure, and a few weeks later, I was sipping tea on a couch that looked as if it had been kissed by a flower garden.

A pianist performed in a high-ceilinged chamber. Observing the animated scene around me -- ladies and gentlemen seated around the fire, teacups in hand, pastries on laps -- it was hard to imagine the landmark property's recent dark period.

In March, the hotel filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection. At the same time, Marriott Hotel Services signed an asset purchase agreement.

In early May, West Virginia businessman James Justice bought the stock of the holding company.

"We went from being owned by a big corporation for 100 years to being owned by one guy," said resort historian Robert Conte, a 31-year employee. "And it's not just any guy; it's local guy makes good."

Justice made his fortune in coal mining and agriculture. But he never forgot his humble beginnings or his reverence for the resort.

"My parents instilled in me how proud they were that the Greenbrier was part of West Virginia's history, even if we couldn't afford it," the 58-year-old said. "It's our Emerald City."

To shake off the hotel's elitist reputation, he created the Tribute to the Virginias special, with nightly rates of $59. The four weekends, which run through February, sold out in 48 hours.

"I wanted to give people the opportunity to come stay here," he said. "I don't want them to think that it's some gated palace."

In addition to the deal, Justice initiated a handful of ambitious projects aimed at ushering in a new era at the Greenbrier. In September, he opened the Tavern Casino, a guests-only venue with an air of exclusivity, although no gambling prowess is required. (I won at the roulette wheel, but only because the dealer, Michael, commandeered my chips.)

Upstairs, Prime 44 West is a steakhouse that pays homage to former Los Angeles Laker and West Virginia native Jerry West. The interior design evokes an atmospheric basketball hall of fame.

Coming up the driveway, you can't help noticing a hole that could swallow the Alleghenies. Its future occupant is an underground casino (plus restaurants, shops and a lounge with a horse derby theme) that Justice describes as "James Bond-meets-Monte Carlo-meets-Gone With the Wind."

The expansion is scheduled to open April 1. Also on the drawing board: twice-daily nonstop flights between nearby Lewisburg and cities such as Atlanta, Cleveland, New York and Washington, and a luxury train that will run Washingtonians up to the station across the street from the hotel. A horse-drawn carriage will then take over.

"I don't want to lose the high-end luxury," Justice said. "What I want to lose is the snootiness and pomposity."

In spite of the crowd-pleasing expansions, the Greenbrier, whose natural springs attracted visitors as early as 1778, will never sacrifice its past. The resort's history is more valuable than any royal flush.

Three times a week, Conte leads an interior tour, covering the second floor from end (north wing) to end (main dining room). He throws out dates and defining moments, such as the U.S. Army's purchase of the hotel for $3.3 million in 1942, but also highlights the smallest details, such as the restaurant's place settings. (A separate $20 to $30 tour explores the secret bunker, which was built during the Eisenhower era to safeguard Congress in the event of a nuclear attack.)

While Conte was describing the hotel's incarnation as a soldiers' hospital during World War II, a woman wearing a name tag called out a question:

"Is that where the ice house was?" she asked, as we peered out the window at the north entrance.

"Well, that's a pretty esoteric reference," responded Conte.

Fran Kimberlin was trying to piece together the nine months that her husband, who worked for the military police, spent in the World War II rehab facility.

As the 17-year-old girlfriend of a soldier, she had visited him once at the hospital, staying at a "rinky-dink" hotel in town. She was not allowed to see his room, though she did eat in the dining room.

The married couple returned to the Greenbrier in the 1950s, but they never made it through the gates -- it was too emotional for her husband, she said. Now, the widow had returned with her daughter to fulfill a lifelong desire.

"I just wanted to see more of the buildings and where he stayed," said the 79-year-old from Cincinnati. "This was on my bucket list."

Now the Greenbrier's on my list, too -- with a check after its name.

If you go THE GREENBRIER

The Greenbrier is in White Sulphur Springs, W.Va., near the Virginia state line. From Columbus, the 282-mile drive will take close to five hours.

STAYING THERE

The Greenbrier, 300 W. Main St., White Sulphur Springs, W.Va., has hosted dignitaries, the rich and famous, and regular folks since 1778. Nightly rates are typically $275 to $389, but on select dates through March, the hotel has a promotional rate of $149 midweek and $198 weekends.

PLAYING THERE

Guests can partake of more than 50 activities, including golf, shooting sports and evening movies. Some are free -- such as the morning interior tour by the resort historian, afternoon tea and concert. Others incur a fee -- the bunker tour, $20 or $30, depending on the season; bowling, $10 a person per game.

The hotel is also one of the few properties in the nation to offer falconry (from $99). The newest diversion is the Tavern Casino, with tables and slot machines.

LEARNING MORE

Call 1-800-453-4858 or visit www.greenbrier.com.

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