sharpening

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Lansky rarely to straighten up edges,,,,,DC4 routinely ,, then with half an old belt as a strop using metal polish working on the edge but also the whole of the blade to keep the finish fresh,, then the other half of the belt used dry. It's like riding a bike,,, when you get the hang of it,, then it's easy

This Finnish hunting blade has never been sharpened with anything but metal polish

I have yet to get a sharpening system of some sort. I've been waffling over whether or not to invest in a Lansky system. I've heard good things about them. There are others out there, but they're way beyond my current budget.

I just got my 110 back from a cutlery place. They did a great job sharpening it, shaving sharp. I really don't want to have to hire out sharpening any more, though. Got to buy something. Don't know whether to just start with a stone, or what. I'm kind of paranoid about ruining the blade, and I'm leary of manually sharpening something, having to maintain that perfect angle (which is why I was so interested in something like the Lansky), for just the right micro bevel.

By the way, very nice-loooking hunting knife. Could I trouble you for a picture of the entire knife? Also, do you use it for specialty applications, or whatever comes to mind (multi-purpose)? What kind of steel is used?

I use varying grits of sandpaper that I usually oil to make the sandpaper last longer and I finish on a strop, out of compound right now need to get more. For convex edges I put the sandpaper on top of a mouse pad or similarly softer surface, for non-convex (nonvex? ) I put the sandpaper on a hardcover book. It's been working well, plus sandpaper is cheap.

I have yet to get a sharpening system of some sort. I've been waffling over whether or not to invest in a Lansky system. I've heard good things about them. There are others out there, but they're way beyond my current budget.

I just got my 110 back from a cutlery place. They did a great job sharpening it, shaving sharp. I really don't want to have to hire out sharpening any more, though.

Unless they hand sharpen on whet (or oil) stones, DO NOT get someone else to sharpen your knife.

I have heard of sooo many stories of good knives being destroyed by being poorly sharpened on a power stone that it's not even funny. Seriously, those sharpening services are paid by the knife, the faster they can do it, the more they get paid. who cares if they F up the edge? they sharpened your knife and you have to pay for the service and they are not liable if the blade is buggered.

Buy a Lansky, even if it is a used, basic kit. The cost of the kit will be FAR cheaper than the cost of ONE knife being destroyed by someone that doesn't care about your knife...

I will also recommend Lansky system.
When I bought my first good knife and then it become dull, I had to sharpen it. Since I had no idea how and with what to do it, I found a very skilled person with a lot of weird and very expensive Japanese water stones. He sharpened my knife. Then I decided that it is not much practical to pay someone every time my knife needs service and I bought the Lansky. Chosen Lansky because I do not have the time to practice several years freehand before starting doing it right
Later after many videos, pictures and discussions, I started figuring out how a good sharpened knife should look like. And in that moment I saw how uneven edge had my knife. Although made by a man with more than 20 years practice and a set of professional stones.
When I sharpened it with my Lansky, it was much, much better and even on the whole edge, both sides.
So my opinion is - yes, it is much more cooler to look someone sharpening freehand. But when you compare results of freehand and controlled angle system, I have no doubts on which to bet.

Unless they hand sharpen on whet (or oil) stones, DO NOT get someone else to sharpen your knife.

I have heard of sooo many stories of good knives being destroyed by being poorly sharpened on a power stone that it's not even funny. Seriously, those sharpening services are paid by the knife, the faster they can do it, the more they get paid. who cares if they F up the edge? they sharpened your knife and you have to pay for the service and they are not liable if the blade is buggered.

Buy a Lansky, even if it is a used, basic kit. The cost of the kit will be FAR cheaper than the cost of ONE knife being destroyed by someone that doesn't care about your knife...

The pocket sharpener kind? I used the gerber pocket sharpener-and while it was okay-never shaving sharp. I sent my knife out to get scales done and he did a hell of a job sharpening it. I'll ask what he used, but chances are-he has a ton of experience.

The pocket sharpener kind? I used the gerber pocket sharpener-and while it was okay-never shaving sharp. I sent my knife out to get scales done and he did a hell of a job sharpening it. I'll ask what he used, but chances are-he has a ton of experience.

He's probably not meaning a pocket sharpener, but a kit like this: http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/LSLKCLX/Lansky-Deluxe-Knife-Sharpening-System
Pull through sharpeners (like the gerber) will never get your blade shaving sharp, in the best case they put on a usable utility edge. In worst case the can ruin the edge: it removes to much metal and can put chips into it (don't worry, your gerber won't do that, but a carbide sharpener will!)

By the way, very nice-loooking hunting knife. Could I trouble you for a picture of the entire knife? Also, do you use it for specialty applications, or whatever comes to mind (multi-purpose)? What kind of steel is used?

Thanks!

It was a present from a German fishing friend from Saxony,,,,, not something I would have got for myself but it comes in handy for this and that.

High Carbon steel,,,, nothing fancy, just good metal,, much better than anything stainless though it will rust if not looked after. It's hand forged and the blade retains all the forging and scale marks except where is it sharpened

Rosilli is the brand and they make several different models,,, mine is called the Grandfather which is probably why it was given to me. The blade had the usual ground finish but over the years it has polished out,, also there was a small ding out of the edge but that has also disappeared although it can still be felt by rubbing a nail along the edge

He's probably not meaning a pocket sharpener, but a kit like this: http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/LSLKCLX/Lansky-Deluxe-Knife-Sharpening-System
Pull through sharpeners (like the gerber) will never get your blade shaving sharp, in the best case they put on a usable utility edge. In worst case the can ruin the edge: it removes to much metal and can put chips into it (don't worry, your gerber won't do that, but a carbide sharpener will!)

Thanks for the link! Ya-I've been reading more about different sharpening systems, and ran through various threads of people describing failed sharpening-and it scares the bejeezers outa me! Hearin some good things about the Lansky I just figured that the pocket sharpeners are gimmicks, and that the pros use something that has to be a little more intricate-the lansky seems like the answer!

Waterstones definitelly. I use these, they are called "Pedras das Meigas" ("Stones of Meigas") and come from Galicia (autonomous region, northwest Spain). Closest thing to japanese waterstones that I could find. However, much cheaper and with similar results.

Grits are 700, 1200 and 6000. The 6000 one is extremelly smoth, the stone equivalent to silk. If I had to choose only one to take with me, it would be the 1200: great balance between abrasion and smooth finish.
Remember that you should sharp your knife only once in your lifetime. Then you should keep your knife always sharp, just keep honing it when necessary.

The lansky is a good and cheap, easy to use system for getting knife edges straight, flat and back where they should be. I think it's a very good idea to either get the bench mounting bracket or make one yourself as trying to sharpen a blade and hold it all still is dangerous and it's only a matter of time before you slice something soft and pink. I made a bracket out of a cheap G clamp with a spindle screwed into it but it would be just as easy to use an 8mm bolt screwed into a piece of wood. I also got the yellow ultra fine stone as an extra purchase and it leaves the blade edge with an almost polished finish.

Most of my knives have had the Lansky treatment and are now just touched up with a DC3 ceramic/diamond block and a quick strop using metal polish on an old belt,,,,, I don't need anything else

I agree with this. It is a arguably expensive, but the results you get from something so easy to set up and use make it worth it. Because of the triangle shaped sticks, you can put an edge on a variety of blades. I have touched up my hatchet, my exotic Spyderco Dodo, and all my more traditional knives with it.

He's probably not meaning a pocket sharpener, but a kit like this: http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/LSLKCLX/Lansky-Deluxe-Knife-Sharpening-System
Pull through sharpeners (like the gerber) will never get your blade shaving sharp, in the best case they put on a usable utility edge. In worst case the can ruin the edge: it removes to much metal and can put chips into it (don't worry, your gerber won't do that, but a carbide sharpener will!)

Yes, that is exactly what I mean. Thank you toemke.

There are a great many people that also believe the Pocket sharpeners are about the worst option for hand sharpening, following very closely behind any kind of power driven grinder...