Riesling Report: Domäne Wachau Terrassen Smaragd 2009

This muscular dry Austrian riesling has an intense, tangy acidity: almost-aggressive lime and puckeringly tart plum flavors ride on the sweeping alcohol (at 13%, this wine isn't joking around, and there's a white-pepper heat here that may feel a bit overwhelming to some.)

But what's noteworthy is a charming floral quality; we were reminded of St-Germain elderflower liqueur shaken in a cocktail with lime and honey, fizzed up with Fever Tree tonic. The perfumey chamomile notes in the core of this wine keep it from austerity.

Think of herbs when choose food to go with it: horiatiki with cucumbers, oregano, and feta, grilled chicken rubbed with mint and more oregano, or whole fish stuffed with lemons and sprigs of whatever herbs you're growing.

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