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JDB7910AWB Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for JDB7910AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Using the part list (on your web site)as a guide to remove the parts,Part 32 remove by hand turning counter clockwise,remove screws #5,remove parts(33,34,31,2). Remove #36 remove 4,3,,6,7,,8,9,remove screws#27 then remove #11 which has a plate part of it but broke on the underside (you can't see it in the picture)it will rub on the fins of part#14 during the cycle when dishes are being washed creating a grinding noise.i Do suggest to replace the seals,38,37,you may coat the new seals with liquid hand soap for easier installation.

After removing parts, cleaned both upper and lower spray arms, blew out lead to the upper arm, and started to install the new parts.

Unfortunately, the Pump Housing Filter was still cold (freezing weather during shipment and left at the front door) and when I started to bend it into shape it broke in two places. So I tolk the old filter and some Lime away and slowly cleaned it with soft brush to open 95% of the holes.Once ready it was installed along with the other new parts and the dishwasher works very well.

Simple homeowner repair.

The Spray Diverter Assembly Came Off And Fell On The Heating Element And Melted.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

Replace lower dish rack as orignal was corroded and the holders were rotted

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Rusty movable shelf racks

Since there are no nuts or anything else to remove on these racks, bending them into place is the only obvious way to go to fit them onto the existing racks. Taking out the old movable racks is the easy part - just take a pair of pliers and bend back the 'O' part of the movable rack where it goes over the pin on the big rack. To put on the replacement racks, I found that I had to bow the racks in the middle to make them fit. Simply pressuring them into place didn't have enough give. With a helper to hold the big rack steady, I could use 2 hand to bow and align the movable racks and snap them into place. You have to be careful not to bow to much or you could permanently bend the new parts. I broke one weld between the short pieces that go perpendicular to the long wires on the new rack by putting too much pressure on the long wires.

Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.

Tub was mysteriously slowly filling with water.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

Upper carriage wheels broke.

The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.

To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.

The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.

Closer tab on the door broken.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Dishwasher made a grinding sound - very loud. Did a poor job cleaning.

I took the lower pump assembly apart to find the problem. The biggest challenge was figuring out how to remove the cover. In the center, the assembly is held together with a round plastic nut about 1.5 inches in diameter - simply rotate it counter-clockwise to remove. I then removed the pump housing and found the impeller broken in two and the disk that was supposed to be attached to the top of the pump housing broken off. This was causing the noise and greatly reduced efficiency of the pump. I replaced the impeller and upper pump housing (bought the gasket too since it is hard to remove the old one) and put everything back together using the diagrams provided on the site. While many rate this repair as "easy" - it is only after you figure everything out! If you knew exactly what you were doing, the project could be done in 10 minutes. I had to study the diagram and it took me some time to disassemble, figure out what was wrong, read posts, order parts and reassemble. I also replaced the handle which had broken on one side which was simple. Part select is outstanding - I've used this site for my fridge, oven and now dishwasher and have avoided expensive service calls. If you are technically inclined and patient, you can repair your own appliances.

Dishes were not getting totally clean.

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.2) remove the 2 wire connectors.3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove. 7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Plastic handle had split (age and wear & tear)

As the screws took a special (non philips) head, I did need to buy a special one in the appropriate size (cell phone photos help!). Then I took off the 8 or so screws inside the front door, removed the two screws for the handle, replaced with new handle and screwed the front door back together. Not hard, would have been faster without the hardware store trip.