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Our fridge wont run on propane. When you switch it to gas, the electric starter in back clicks, but it will not start light. It clickes a few times, stops, tries again then flashes "check" inside.

Is this simply a line blockage somewhere, or something different? What parts should I check?

It could be a couple of things. If the fridge hasn't been run for awhile the gas line may not be full to the burner. In the spring I have to hit the start button maybe 5 times before it will stay lit. Assuming you have sufficient propane, the burner area in the back of the fridge probably needs cleaning. You have to remove a guard to gain access. Vacuum the area around the burner and hit the flue a few times to dislodge any debris in the exhaust. I also run a little sandpaper on the sensor probe to make sure that it is clean.

If all seems to be in working order my guess would be that you need to purge the air. I open up a burner on my stove (furthest from tank) when we get in and hold a long handle lighter up to it until it lights and then shut it off.

If all seems to be in working order my guess would be that you need to purge the air. I open up a burner on my stove (furthest from tank) when we get in and hold a long handle lighter up to it until it lights and then shut it off.

It works otherwise. In fact its sometimes TOO cold when running on electricity.

Few notes: that is not a "pilot." Pilot lights burn all the time. That is the main flame.

If it's "too" cold, that can be another issue, that should be verified.

What happens is the gas valve opens, the ignitor sparks, and then gas lights.
So the burner could be dirty or bad, orifice clogged, gas valve bad, ignitor or ignitor wire bad and sparking somewhere else, or clogged line to the refr.

Clean the burner and electrode and purge the air. If after a couple attempts it still wont light then it's probably a failed part. So what part, well.... for me I start with the electrode because it's cheap and the tip is in the flame so makes since that it goes bad. If that's not it then it's probably the board, but can be the gas valve. I change the board next as it's easier and because I have them sitting on the self.. Of course I will ohm the valve and very rarely is that the culprit. Most common is the board and/or electrode....

Turn the gas on an hour ahead of needing to use it (assuming it has been off for several days). This usually works to get it to the fridge with consistent gas flow. If I have to switch over quickly I run the range for a minute to ensure a steady supply of gas has reached that area and it ignites right away. This only happens when I have shut off the propane for several days. I think it is probably somewhat common.

We have a Dometic and when I would disconnect from 110v the fridge check light would come on. You could hear the solenoid activate but no flame, I took the therm o coupling to an RV dealer ship and they said it was ok because it was not cracked and it was possibly a circuit board. I ended up replacing the circuit board and it fixed the problem.

I have the same problem after the coach has been in storage for 2 weeks or more. I have always been able to fix the problem by "burnishing" the area on the burner that meets the spark and also cleaning the tip of the igniter. It still takes a couple of restarts to get the gas cleared but then it works for the entire trip whether it is 3 days or 6 weeks without anymore trouble. :} good luck

Turn the gas on an hour ahead of needing to use it (assuming it has been off for several days). This usually works to get it to the fridge with consistent gas flow. If I have to switch over quickly I run the range for a minute to ensure a steady supply of gas has reached that area and it ignites right away. This only happens when I have shut off the propane for several days. I think it is probably somewhat common.

There's no telling HOW long it's been since the fridge ran on propane. IF it ever did run on propane. The previous owners didn't seem to be much of the "boondocker" type.

We have a Dometic and when I would disconnect from 110v the fridge check light would come on. You could hear the solenoid activate but no flame, I took the therm o coupling to an RV dealer ship and they said it was ok because it was not cracked and it was possibly a circuit board. I ended up replacing the circuit board and it fixed the problem.

If it were a circuit board problem, would the ingniter attempt to spark and shut off automatically? I would think that if it were a circuit board problem that wouldn't work properly. I'm inclined to think its more of a gas supply issue at this point....