Feeling Crabby?

Maryland blue crabs, Tastykakes and Utz potato chips, all in one place? Crab Corner’s recent arrival on Las Vegas’ east side is a comfort to this University of Maryland grad who bleeds Terrapin red, but its appeal should reach well beyond former East-Coasters.

Start with the crab dip ($8), an off-menu special soon to be included in print. It’s chock-full of cream cheese and spices and served nicely browned on baguette slices. Pass on the just-okay Maryland crab soup ($4 cup, $6 bowl), and move on to the crabs themselves.

Maryland blue crabs are the star, though availability is seasonal; only females ($35 per dozen) were available during my visits. Those are sweet enough, just less meaty than their male counterparts. I suggest asking for extra spice—they’re light-handed with the J.O. (no Old Bay here!) to appeal to more general palates. The attentive staff is happy to oblige the request, and they’ll even coach you on how to eat them.

Boardwalk fries ($3) are a must—freshly cut, fried in peanut oil and ready to be smothered with malt vinegar and crab spice. I can practically smell Ocean City’s beach from here. Surprisingly, the very non-East Coast sweet potater-tots ($2) are also a big hit, candy-like and firm, unlike many sweet potato fries. A perfect complement to the sweet crab.

Make sure you save room for a Tastykake ($1.75), the Hostess of the East—well worth the calorie splurge.