Massimo Alba's Understated Luxury

Massimo Alba may have launched his eponymous label just six years ago, but he's hardly a newcomer. His career stretches back to the mid-1980s, and he's logged time at a roster of esteemed labels such as Malo, Piombo, Agnona, and Ballantyne. All of which makes sense when you look at his latest collection, an exercise in restrained classicism rendered in rich colorways and plush fabrics.

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"I'm trying to design something that has emotional comfort," he says over the phone from Italy, where he's based. "We are designing clothes that are able to survive and will exist in the future." This focus on longevity and quality over passing trends is what makes fall/winter 2013 feel especially timeless, though the fact that the bottle greens, burnt oranges, and soft shoulders all look particularly at home in this very moment is ample proof that Alba's hardly turning a blind eye to the modern modern world.

Seemingly small choices lead to big impressions in this collection — beautifully-cut trousers are made from deep purple velvet for some added texture; cashmere knits are given a vintage patina through overdyeing techniques; polos and popovers are made from easygoing linens and cotton blends; and tailoring and outerwear has a loose, unstructured feel that belies the fine-tuned craftsmanship.

"There is a lot of construction inside, a lot of little details," Alba explains of his louche, slightly unkempt aesthetic. "I want there to be something special, but not too perfect."

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