nicee! I dont understand..why would a big name company like dupont and ppg with top dollar chemists make an inferior product to companies most never heard of? I guess thats corporate for you

First, R-M is one of the oldest automotive paint companies in the U.S. They started supplying paint to Cadillac in 1926....were the first to pioneer metallic paints in the '30s, and are now BASF chemical coatings top brand of automotive paint.

They also own Sherwin Williams Automotive division. THAT is their second line of paint, and if you have used both, the Sherwin Williams is clearly inferior to the "R-M" brand. It should be. It is designed to cost less, which means cheaper pigments and ingredients go into the formulas.

I didn't say PPG and Dupont were inferior. It's just that paint jobs don't live in a perfect world, so a product may only work well under ideal circumstances, or for the application they designed it for.

My feeling is that the last PPG product I used would be fine if you spray with very little orange peel, and absolutely zero sags or runs! I'm just not that good.

I ran into the same thing on my first wet sand and polish job, I had started with 1000 grit and after polish I could still see orange peel but when I started with 400 wet then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 I never had that problem again.
The truck in my profile pic and project journal has a lot of graphics and hard edges, what I had to do was clear then wet sand with 400 then re clear, wet sand with 400 then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 and finally polish.

I ran into the same thing on my first wet sand and polish job, I had started with 1000 grit and after polish I could still see orange peel but when I started with 400 wet then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 I never had that problem again.
The truck in my profile pic and project journal has a lot of graphics and hard edges, what I had to do was clear then wet sand with 400 then re clear, wet sand with 400 then 1000 then 1500 then 2000 and finally polish.

How many coats of clear did you have to apply over all and how many mills of clear did you have when you where you where done??

Do a search of past threads about discussions about urethane peel and flow coats.
Could be bodywork, but does sound like urethane peel being as it looks good straight on, but wavy when you look down the side in the light. Urethane peel is hard to totally avoid, but things like a high solids clear, heavy coats, or too large a tip size can really contribute to the amount of urethane peel.
1000 is too fine to effectively flatten out urethane peel.

The medal goes to you...if you were here I'd buy you a beer. I went back with 800 grit and it flatted it out! Thanks for the advice!

I just hope you have enough clear on there to properly buff it out and not have sand scratches show up from 800 grit.

Well a super duty compound and a wool pad probably could take 800 grit back out, but a smart man would go over again wetsanding, stepping down to a finer grit so they don't have to work as hard getting the scratches back out and good gloss back and can start with a less agressive compound.
Yeah hopefully you put enough clear on the car, that you don't wind up buffing back through anywhere buffing it back, and enough mils of clear are left on the car for good uv protection and the clear to hold up. Be carefull around edges. Worst case senerio is you buff through on a panel or two, and you wind up have to spot in some more color (praying the sandthrough doesn't lift) and reclear those panels.
If its all sanded in 800 and you didn't cut through anywhere yet, could just reclear it over that grit with around 3 coats of a lower solids clear, trying to keep any new orange and urethane peel down, and hopefully all goes well and lays down nice and flat, and then only have to do something like a light cut and buff to knock out dirt nibs. Might be the easiest way least work, best results way to go in the long run, and part of a regular routine to many of those that do show jobs.
Clear lays much nicer over clear thats cut flat and sealing up everything, so you don't have basecoat sucking it up and texture buildup from all the crapola beneath it-sealers base ect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by makaveli200369

The medal goes to you...if you were here I'd buy you a beer. I went back with 800 grit and it flatted it out! Thanks for the advice!

Wow, a medal. Don't think I ever won much of anything. Do have a peewee league first place trophy somewhere and a 1st place bowling plaque (not much thanks to me, I was better at the beer drinking.) I did have a boss slip me an extra 50 bucks once when a paint job turned out real well and dirt free on a rebuilder that someone was looking at buying before we had finished up. We didn't have to cut and buff, and the customer liked it when they seen it and wanted to buy. Just about had a heart attack and hit the floor, the boss was so cheap, and use to go around picking up used paper towling off the floor to be used again. After 20 years, seems many body shops usually show you little respect for all the good things you do, and hardly ever an ataboy, but are quick to hear screaming when ever something is messed up (which can easily enough happen in this sort of work). They also like to scream because something has to go, yet they were the ones who way underbid the job again, and promised it too soon. Thats why I kinda liked when I did sidejobs. Worked way to hard for the money, but at least people were usually much more appreciative of your efforts, and you were informed of and know exactly what the fork is going on.

Yeah I went over the 800 to 1000 to 1500 and 2000 it all buffed out. I really don't have time to reshoot more clear on it. The car is put together and I might have to move soon so I just need to finish the car and get it going. I think I'm fine though because I did lay on 3-4 heavy coats when I shot it.

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