25 Quackenbush Square, Albany, 465-1111. Chef-owner Jean-Jacques
Carquillat has run a successful restaurant of the same name
in Kingston since 1996; now he brings his expertise in traditional
French country fare to the historic Quackenbush House. Specials
change daily according to season, with an emphasis on local
and organic ingredients; menu mainstays include roasted
Long Island duck with orange sauce and trout almondine.
Full bar, extensive wine list. Serving lunch 11-4 Mon-Sat,
dinner 5-10 Mon-Sat. Closed Sunday. Reservations suggested.
AE, D, MC, V. $$$$

3 Center St., West Stockbridge, Mass., (413) 232-4111, rougerestaurant.com.
William Merelle is the chef and owner of this quintessential
French bistro in the Berkshires. Among the entrées is the
house favorite, braised duck with shredded potato cake and
rosemary balsamic vanilla sauce. Tapas served at the bar.
Takeout available. Reservations for four or more. Serving
dinner 5-10 Wed-Sun. AE, MC, V. $$$