Reviews of Ambre Vie

Useless (almost an academic exercise) trying to rove across the Ambre Vie's olfactory evolution since this hellish (bitter, resinous, lush and aromatic) House of Matriarch's potion is a veritable masterpiece of perfumed witchery. By the way, the articulated Deadidol's review opens for us the doors to a really accurate comprehension of the Ambre Vie's general complexity. Yes, the note of natural amber (interesting the reference to a precious baltic amber) is the main element but the general structure is as much complex to induce us going beyond definitions and labels. Basically what strikes me immediately is the undeniable licentious luxuriousness coming from the combination of boozy spices (an hellish association of high quality "spirits" and luxuriant exotic spices), bitter herbs extrait, aromatic-resinous (somewhat balsamic) ingredients (in particular the floral balsamic Calendula Officinalis) and flavoured tobacco. The first impression is to be dealing with a golden royal potion rich of artistry, ambition, "Historical Grandeur" and luxury. The combination of mimosa and davana oil elicits a sort of gourmandish and aromatic lingering undertone of honey, serum and yellow pollen. Several "forbidding" parisian and roman scenarios (crowded by "dame fatale" and mysterious illusionist Cavaliers) mirably painted by Alexandre Dumas in its notorious Le Comte de Montecristo jump ideally on mind. As unusual for such natural amber centered aromas (which tend too often to collapse towards an almost flat sort of anonimous white powder) the texture in here goes ahead rich and multifaceted, manteining along the way diverse nuances and evolving slowly across a long "layout" studded by hills and fields featuring perfumed tobaccos, rich hesperides, longly distilled cognac, subtle floral attars, holy resins (frankincense), suede and bold ancient woods. Pure Bliss for this old nose of mine. Useless to go further with words, just....finally, if we properly press to define Ambre Vie an "amber", well, let me say "solemnly" that this is probably the most glorious amber fragrance ever appointed.

Ambre Vie is a solid, all-business reference amber that bears close resemblance to the scent of actual, extracted amber by sidestepping predictable sweetness and deploying a more buttery approach.

It opens with a delicate chord of spices that's merged with yellow, waxy florals of mimosa and genet. A cunning balsamic note is also struck that hints at a gourmand, wine-like texture, possibly emanating from the davana, but mainly serves to mark out the lactonic path ahead. Yet Ambre Vie never spins into any of these sidelines too far; instead it maintains a demeanor dedicated to representing amber in its truest, most natural form.

Like its closest analog, HdP's Ambre 114, this stuff utilizes more than 100 materials to achieve its effect, yet the result is largely free from bombast. There's musk lurking beneath, but it merges with the buttery tones of the base to keep from announcing itself too loudly. Similarly, soft, smoky notes appear alongside what seems to be clove, but these notes never get close enough the surface for full recognition. It's as if Meshell has taken these supplementary materials and has encased them within an olfactory representation of a block of Baltic amber. Consequently, Ambre Vie positions itself between a visual representation and the scent of the conifer extraction admirably.

The fragrance develops a little more over time as the fatty florals of the opening clear a space for the amber itself to flourish, but at no point is the scent leaping from the skin. The central accord seems to be structured less upon harsher, turpenic and incense notes, instead relying more on cozy balsams and a slightly dirty frankincense to maintain its oily qualities. However, it should be added that for those seeking the force of a scent such as Amber Absolute, this simply isn't it. Like much from this line, the all-natural approach renders the fragrance as restrained yet deceptive. It rides low on the skin, but unfolds in stages, revealing itself at various volumes when you least expect it. It dries down to an ambergris-like foundation (although apparently there's no ambergris in it) that imparts a slightly bitter tobacco effect, and its through this that the wafts of remaining amber surface.

Ambre 114 has always served as the reference amber for me, even though I personally like others more than that one. Ambre Vie is very close to what Ambre 114 accomplishes, only it does so through the all-natural approach which renders the wearing of the scent quite different. Consequently, this should appeal to fans of the genre, but is ideally suited to those who would prefer a fragrance that gets closer to the scent of the amber extraction itself without losing sight of its function in replicating the visual image of amber as well. Overall, a strong contribution that sets itself apart from others in an otherwise crowded crowded field.

Pros: It's one of the more mimetic renderings of the note that manages to keep its interpretative qualities intact.Cons: As with many all-naturals, this sits close to the skin and dissipates in unusual ways."