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Monday, May 20, 2013

Potato Sugar and Potato Candy.

I have no idea whether
or not sugar is derived from potatoes on any commercial scale anywhere in the
world in this modern era, but it was an intriguing idea in the early nineteenth
century. Here is a brief description of the process from a book with the marvelously
convoluted complete title of:

The Popular Encyclopedia: being a general dictionary
of arts, sciences, literature, biography, history, and political economy,
reprinted from the American edition of the 'Conversations lexicon' with
dissertations on the rise and progress of literature by Sir D. K. Sandford, on
the progress of science by Thomas Thomson, and on the progress of the fine
arts, by Allan Cunningham (Glasgow, 1836)

The
next useful product [after potato starch] derivable from the potato is sugar.
The discovery by chemical analysis, that the potato, though far different in
form, taste, and all external qualities, was perfectly similar in component
parts to the different kinds of grain used for the food of the man, led
naturally to inquiries, whether the products derived from these grains, by
submitting them to different chemical operations, might not be procured also
from this root. Complete success was the consequence. It was found, among other
things, that a substance, possessing all the properties of sugar, though
differing a little from that of the sugar cane, could be procured by a simple
operation from the potato. Until lately, however, the discovery was considered
only as a matter of curiosity, and was mentioned only among men of science.
Experiments were tried, on an extensive scale, in the United States of America,
to ascertain whether, in districts where the potato grows abundantly, this sugar
might not be made advantageously both to the population of the district, and to
the manufacturer himself. The potatoes were ground by a very ingenious and
simple method, by exposing them through a box or hopper to the action of a
wooden cylinder, having nailed upon it long strips of iron punched full of
holes, to give them a rough grating surface. This cylinder was driven by a band
of leather attached to the drum of a water-wheel. On filling the hopper with
potatoes, and giving the grater the necessary motion, the potatoes were reduced
with surprising rapidity to a fine pulp, from which, by the aid of a sieve and
water, the starch, in great purity, was readily obtained. This apparatus ground
3500 bushels of potatoes without the least repair. The starch thus obtained was
then dissolved completely in water, heated by steam let into it. A certain
quantity of sulphuric acid, or vitriol, was then mixed with it, and heat being
applied, the whole of the starch was converted into syrup. This was purified
from the acid by adding quicklime, and then evaporated; when the result was an
excellent sugar fit for all domestic purposes. A bushel of potatoes, weighing
60 lb., gives 8 lb. of pure dry starch; and from these 8 lb., 7 ½ lb. of sugar
are obtained. This sugar ferments briskly, when made into beer, and yields a
healthful and pleasant beverage. It will be of most use, however, for making
sweetmeats, and may be used at table in place of honey, for which it is a good
substitute. It has already become a great favourite with most persons who have
become acquainted with it. Its taste is that of a delicious sweet, and as an
article of diet it is probably more healthful, and less oppressive to the
stomach, than an; other sweet substance in use. Potatoes are used extensively
in the eastern part of Russia for making treacle, which is quite as sweet and
good as that which we obtain from the tropics, but having less consistence.

There
is more than one way to make sweet things with the potato of course. One can
add sugar from other sources and make candy. I have previously given recipes
for Tomato Marshmallows and Potato Fondant from a book called Candy-making revolutionized; confectionery
from vegetables, written in 1912 by Mary Elizabeth Hall, but it has other
potato sweets too.

Potato
Caramel No. 1.

Stir well one pound of
sugar, one cupful of milk, one cupful of Irish potato — boiled and sifted as
directed before — two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half teaspoonful of
salt. Boil until thick, and thin with one-half cupful of milk, and again cook
until thick; again thin with one-half cupful of milk and cook until the mass is
of caramel consistency, tested in cold water. Stir as little as possible, but
be careful that the mass does not stick to the bottom of the kettle. Pour on a
well-oiled marble between candy bars. Dry two days, cut in strips and dry again
before finally cutting in squares. Place them in a cold place for several hours
and then wrap them in parchment paper. They keep well.

This is the kind of
potato caramel that is especially good for chocolate coating, although all of
the potato caramels can be chocolate coated. Make the caramels as above and
allow them to dry in the open air for several hours and then cover with
chocolate.

The process is fully as
laborious as it sounds, but the results are more than worth the trouble. The
repeated cookings give the characteristic caramel taste and color.

And
from another source:

Potato
Cocoanut Candy

1 medium sized potato

2 cups shredded
cocoanut

2 cups sifted
confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Chocolate

Cook potato in boiling
water until soft, and force through a coarse sieve or a potato ricer. There
should be half a cup of potato. To this add sugar, cocoanut, and vanilla,
working together until well mixed. Press one inch thick into small bread pan,
and spread top with a thin layer of melted bitter chocolate or sweet chocolate.
When chocolate is firm, cut in small squares.