Sorry for the lack of good pictures. I had taken a bunch during the install but have had problems saving them on my computer. These are after the fact (two weeks) captured from a short video for sake of show and tell.

At any rate, my brakes are now complete and consist of:

Two piece (front only/directional veined) Rotors ~ Solid, no slots no cross-drilled (my research tells me that is best for the way my brakes are set-up)
More surface to surface for braking power. Pads don't glaze until temps are way/way up there.
Raybestos ST-41 Pads (first time used will comment after track event this Sunday, Sears point/Infineon) So far they seem great. Because the event is Sunday and the track is only 45 miles away Iím just going to leave the on until after the event.
First impression at Sears point (excellent)! I will know better after next weekend when I am at a familiar track. I will be able to push harder and compare braking to previous sessions.
8 feet of BRADUC30SIL Duct Tube
24" x 18" piece of sheet metal cut and shaped into two 9" round pieces of sheet metal with hole in center to fit hub thru, three bolt holes and one strategically placed oval hole matching the duct tube hose after it is shaped
1/8" x 3/4" x 96" aluminum (used for brackets)
Assorted rivets n bolts

1. First I removed front wheels, Calipers (hang out of way via rope), and rotors.
2. Remove bolts holding hub and remove bracket which holds the traction control sensor wire (I used it as a pattern to cut out inner hole and bolt patterns for my 9" sheet metal pieces used to seal the inner portion of the rotors. (When placed between the steering knuckle/hub) it is perfect alignment to seal off inner portion of the rotor.

Picture 1

3. Remove the front fender well liner, pulled off the intake duct tube and cut about 1.5Ē to 2Ē off to allow the 3" duct hose to fit inside it.
1. (I riveted the hose to the intake duct tube.)
4. Then I cut a slot from the hole the stock tube entered the wheel-well towards the inner wall of the wheel-well/frame so I could run the tube to the inside of the wheel well with ought making contact with the tires.
5. Shaped and installed brackets to hold duct tube out of harms way.
6. Once the brackets were in place I put the wheels back on the check clearance again.

Picture 2

7. Trimmed the length of the hose not needed and shoved it thru the oval cutout in the sheet metal back plate that seals the inner rotor and riveted it in place.

Picture 3

The procedure took about 8 hrs for the driverís side and 1.5 hrs on the passenger side. Typical, after doing something once it is much easier and faster the second time. Also there is more room on the passenger side because the PCM and steering is on driverís side.

Thats it!

Thanks,

rgd

wildwhl

12-03-06, 12:56 AM

rgd -

nice writeup. Sorry for the inexperienced question - but why direct the venting to the center of the brake disc? Do the vents in the rotors actually draw air through them?

Thanks, Dreamin. Hmmm...might have to add this project to the mod list for the V. I don't seem to have anything on there at the moment :banghead:

Good job RGD.

WW

rgd

12-03-06, 12:50 PM

Thanks, Dreamin. Hmmm...might have to add this project to the mod list for the V. I don't seem to have anything on there at the moment :banghead:

Good job RGD.

WW

lololololoololoollooolollololo

:worship::worship: Stop it I cant breath...

No really!

rgd

Thanks by the way.

rgd

12-03-06, 01:00 PM

Black Sunshine, is that anything like fire and ice; Oops wrong venue!

Coleman Racing, for rotors, they can do the hats too.

Any 18" rotor 175.50.
Hats around $220 ea I believe.
Origionally I did not get my hats there but I probably would if I had it to do over.

Easy search on the web.

thanks,
rgd

Black Sunshine

12-03-06, 01:36 PM

Thanks for the info.:)

RobertCTS

12-04-06, 05:03 AM

Your flex ducts look similar to the NASCAR brake ducts. Of course at 180 mph braking really heats up the rotors. This might serve you track boys well but not of much use for a daily driver. I assume the ducts give you full rotation of steering? Good job!:)

thebigjimsho

06-25-07, 09:43 AM

Sorry for the lack of good pictures. I had taken a bunch during the install but have had problems saving them on my computer. These are after the fact (two weeks) captured from a short video for sake of show and tell.

At any rate, my brakes are now complete and consist of:

Two piece (front only/directional veined) Rotors ~ Solid, no slots no cross-drilled (my research tells me that is best for the way my brakes are set-up)
More surface to surface for braking power. Pads don't glaze until temps are way/way up there.
Raybestos ST-41 Pads (first time used will comment after track event this Sunday, Sears point/Infineon) So far they seem great. Because the event is Sunday and the track is only 45 miles away Iím just going to leave the on until after the event.
First impression at Sears point (excellent)! I will know better after next weekend when I am at a familiar track. I will be able to push harder and compare braking to previous sessions.
8 feet of BRADUC30SIL Duct Tube
24" x 18" piece of sheet metal cut and shaped into two 9" round pieces of sheet metal with hole in center to fit hub thru, three bolt holes and one strategically placed oval hole matching the duct tube hose after it is shaped
1/8" x 3/4" x 96" aluminum (used for brackets)
Assorted rivets n bolts

1. First I removed front wheels, Calipers (hang out of way via rope), and rotors.
2. Remove bolts holding hub and remove bracket which holds the traction control sensor wire (I used it as a pattern to cut out inner hole and bolt patterns for my 9" sheet metal pieces used to seal the inner portion of the rotors. (When placed between the steering knuckle/hub) it is perfect alignment to seal off inner portion of the rotor.

Picture 1

3. Remove the front fender well liner, pulled off the intake duct tube and cut about 1.5Ē to 2Ē off to allow the 3" duct hose to fit inside it.
1. (I riveted the hose to the intake duct tube.)
4. Then I cut a slot from the hole the stock tube entered the wheel-well towards the inner wall of the wheel-well/frame so I could run the tube to the inside of the wheel well with ought making contact with the tires.
5. Shaped and installed brackets to hold duct tube out of harms way.
6. Once the brackets were in place I put the wheels back on the check clearance again.

Picture 2

7. Trimmed the length of the hose not needed and shoved it thru the oval cutout in the sheet metal back plate that seals the inner rotor and riveted it in place.

Picture 3

The procedure took about 8 hrs for the driverís side and 1.5 hrs on the passenger side. Typical, after doing something once it is much easier and faster the second time. Also there is more room on the passenger side because the PCM and steering is on driverís side.

Thats it!

Thanks,

rgdHey rgd, do you think you could give us an update and repost the pictures???