Ratings are from one to four stars: One is good, two is very good, three is excellent, four is exceptional.

Critic’s Choice: Signifies a noteworthy restaurant that is highly recommended, regardless of the star rating.

Stylish restaurant design and creative, thoughtful daytime meal options are on the up and up. The newest addition to the daylight club is Dandy, a gorgeous Old Montreal restaurant from chef and owner Michael Tozzi, and a game-changer for a casual lunch, lazy weekend brunch or refined breakfast.

Tozzi learned from the best in the biz; he used to be chef at nearby Olive et Gourmando, which nailed the morning-to-afternoon formula and set the bar pretty high. But Tozzi rises to the occasion with his own version, and vision: Dandy’s menu has a slight Italian bent, with flexibility for season and inspiration. He has some help from chef Ritchie Nguyen, formerly of Maison Publique and no stranger to this discerning, local seasonal style, nor to brunch.

The space itself, designed by BlazysGérard, is long and narrow, with back-to-back soft camel brown leather banquettes in the centre and a row of tables on each side. The deep coral-coloured bar, which runs the width of the space, looks out onto the room framed by an archway. There are similarly arched bistro lights, and a large arched mirror covering the entire wall at the back, where there are a couple more tables. Generous, high windows with that same semicircular shape run along the side of the restaurant, giving the room a good dose of natural light and a warm, organic feeling — essential for a place that is open solely during daytime hours, and a successful aspect of the overall design aesthetic. Another success here is the lack of pretension — the staff are the first indication, with their friendly, natural airs and extremely knowledgeable service.

My first visit was for lunch. I usually don’t day-drink, but the concise, natural wine-friendly list — put together by Foxy sommelier Kaitlin Doucette — had so many palatable options, I couldn’t help but go with our waiter’s suggestion: the Basis Nobody, a crunchy, light and fruity Austrian rosé from Matthias Warnung. The selection of wines is generally in the $45-$75 range, with several by the glass.

Printed on colourful paper cards, the menu has enough choice both for those who want something light and quick and those looking for a lunchy lunch, with more time to spare. Since we already sealed our fate with wine, we decided to settle in with the curious-sounding soup of the day, tomato and strawberry, along with the hard-to-resist-with-a-drink house chips.

The soup, which I could inhale all season long, was summer in a bowl. Served cold, with diced tomato, cucumber and strawberry, a drizzle of oil and garnished with fresh parsley, this gazpacho-like rendition was refreshing, bright and the perfect balance of flavours (which could go very wrong with strawberry). A single bowl of soup is not usually something shared around the table family-style, but we did it anyway (all four of us!) — we couldn’t help it. The chips also quickly disappeared, thanks in part to their slightly thicker, crisp and salty nature, as well as the two dipping options: a creamy, zesty labneh and a spicy pickled jalapeño salsa. I suggest sinking your chip into one, then the other, liberally.

Mains followed suit, starring the roasted halibut, the definition of a fancier lunchy option. The generous portion of ultra-fresh Gaspésie fish was tender, buttery and cooked perfectly. Served over a thick slice of braised fennel and surrounded by a silky onion purée, plus sautéed wild mushrooms, the fish was topped with a raw, shaved fennel salad for contrast and texture.

The buttermilk fried chicken sandwich — the dish you want, but know you probably shouldn’t order — was totally worth it. The combination of fried (but not greasy), juicy chicken thighs, the sweet, acidic crunch of the apple rémoulade, and the soft, buttery brioche bun made for pure enjoyment. Oh, and it was served with more of those house chips and dips for good measure.

The more responsible choice of a falafel salad was also very good. The falafels themselves had a soft, moist crumb, with a super thin, light outer crust, and were mixed with gem lettuce, shaved cucumber and radish. The highlights came from the addictive fried chickpeas scattered throughout, as well as the combo of paper-thin pickled beets and yogurt sauce on the bottom. But in the centre, a hidden pile of Israeli couscous was in dire need of something more — herbs, dressing, anything to elevate its potential.

The fresh corn agnolotti (flattened dough, stuffed and folded into little pasta parcels) was good for a few bites, but the sweet, creamy Quebec corn filling quickly overwhelmed the dish, with not enough Parmesan or fresh herbs to counter all that sweetness, despite the overall appeal.

Desserts here come in the form of baked goods, all easily taken to go. We shared a slice of babka. It was delicious — especially paired with a coffee — the brioche-like cake cut with welcome bittersweet lacings of good-quality chocolate.

Due to the nature of Dandy, I wanted to return for breakfast. (Served on weekends, the brunch menu appears to be a combination of the breakfast and lunch ones, with a few additions.) Service once again was flawless, with the incredibly welcoming staff explaining the details of each dish with knowledge and genuine enthusiasm either before we ordered or as they hit the table. Thank you, Dandy!

Breakfast options span the healthy (house-made granola, coconut chia bowl), the classic (flat top eggs, smoked salmon or bacon, potatoes and salad; a breakfast sandwich) and the fancy (blood pudding, tartine, ricotta pancakes). We went for the blood pudding and tartine. The blood pudding stole the meal: smooth, light, creamy and not overly rich, the square slab of blood sausage was expertly matched with a flat top egg, sweet carrot chutney, vivid parsley, caper, shallot salad, and a thin, fleur de sel-sprinkled piece of buttered toast. Taking inspiration from the season, the tartine was that same thin toast slathered in whipped feta, and piled with fresh peas, sautéed zucchini and oyster mushroom, a flat top egg and fried leeks. Fresh, bright, creamy, crunchy and slightly sour, this generous portion made for a substantial and very satisfying start to the day.

Both times I visited Dandy, I was impressed. Not only by the space, the service and the food, but also by how comfortable I felt being there. It’s hard to capture the restaurant magic you get when it’s dark outside, the lights are low and candles adorn each table, but they did it at Dandy in the light of day — and I have to say, it’s very fine.