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Beaded toggle bars are easy to make. Even if you don’t know the peyote stitch that well.

One thing I suggest. Do resist the temptation to continue from your beadwork directly to the toggle bar. Always end your current thread. And start with a fresh thread to connect the toggle bar.

Reasons?

you make a mistake on placement and need to undo it

bar is too large or too small and you want to remake it

need to change the number of beads leading to the bar

etc, etc.

If you had continued with the same thread as your beadwork, you could possibly ruin your item trying to make these changes. Been there. Done that.

This is what works for me. And I have tried various combinations of seed beads/rows.

Using 8/0 seed beads, gauge how many you will need. I have tried 14, 16, 18 and 20 seed beads. Peyote for 4 rows. Meaning when you count the beads at the top and bottom, you count 4.

Instructions for Beaded Toggle Bar

Step 1

String 20 seed beads. I used size 8/0. Add a bead stopper.

Step 2

Beginning on the end opposite the bead stopper, working upward, start adding beads.

Continue adding beads/rows until you have 4 beads at the top and 4 beads at the bottom.

Step 3

Pinch the beadwork together between your fingers. I used a metal clip to illustrate the folding of the beads.

Step 4

Begin to sew the sides together.

Zip up the sides by sewing into ONLY the high beads. Those sticking out further. Go from one side to the other, going upward. I like to reinforce the beadwork by going up and down the entire length of the toggle bar with the working thread. Also going up and back down with the tail thread. Try to come out of the same seed bead with both threads. CUT BOTH THREADS.

This is how your beaded toggle bar should look after sewing the sides together.

Step 5

Once finished, one last thing to do. Insert a piece of inexpensive wire. Artistic Wire, I think mine is called.

Push it through the toggle bar almost to the end. Cut wire, file any burrs, now push the rest of the way. This extra step strengthens your toggle bar. The wire is in tight enough, no need to worry about it coming out. (You could sew a tiny 11/0 seed bead on the ends.)

Step 6

Connect toggle bar to your beadwork.

You decide how many seed beads are needed to comfortably go through the other end of your clasp.

OK. Now go get your bead stash and try making this toggle bar. And pocket the money you would normally spend buying commercial clasps. Enjoy!!

Supplies/Tools Used

Fireline beading thread

size 10 or 12 beading needle

8/0 seed beads

2″ piece of 20 gauge Artistic Wire

bead stopper

wire cutter

ruler

If you need help with the peyote stitching part, see my blog’s sidebar under Tutorials. Lots of help links there.

String one end of cord through the 1st button, silver snowflake and 2nd button. Center so cord ends measure evenly. (See photo)

Pull cords tight so buttons fit tight against silver snowflake like a sandwich.

Step 3 – Adding Tying Cord.

Find center of 4 1/2 yard cord and position it UNDER the filler cords. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with the tying cords, the longer cords. Slide knot up close to the buttons.

Step 4 – Tying the top Square Knot Button.

Drop down 1/4″ and tie a Square Knot Button consisting of 7 square knots. In a row. This is called a Sinnet. SK Button will hold a pen or pencil.

Take filler cords (the middle cords) and go up and through the holes created. Front to back. Pull down to form a Square Knot Button.

Tie one SK under the SK Button to secure it.

Step 5 – Tying Square Knot Sinnet.

Tie 12″ of square knots. In a row. One after the other.

Step 6 – Tying the Bottom Square Knot Button.

Drop down 1/4″ and tie a Square Knot Button consisting of 7 square knots. Same as you did in Step 4.

Tie TWO square knots under the SK Button.

That completes the knot tying and now you will bury all cords except ONE FILLER CORD. That cord will be used to string the last buttons and silver snowflake. Using the large hole metal needle, bury one cord at a time, from the back, going up through the knotwork. (See photo)

Step 7 – Adding Bottom Buttons and Snowflake.

String cord through buttons and silver snowflake per the photo. Pull cords tight so buttons fit tight against the silver snowflake like a sandwich.

Step 8.

To finish off cord end: Tie around base of the cord or hand sew together. Trim cord end.

All done. Finished and ready to enjoy for yourself or to give as a gift.

My Tuesday was spent in the doctor’s office (twice) and then the rest of the day, I was fighting with the sun (lack there of) trying to take over 200 pictures of my completed headbands. I slept most of Wednesday since I was dead tired.

Finally, several hours ago, I got a spurt of energy to get started on this tutorial. Better late than never, don’t ya think.

And anyway, this is an easy one. REALLY. Even easier than last week’s. I guess I lied about that one being the easiest. THIS ONE IS!!

Today’s headband has a Zig Zag pattern created by alternating between Square Knots (SK) tied with the “knob” on the left side and then the right. It only works when you use two different colors of macrame cord. You only need a small amount of cord. You could probably use scrap, left-overs, if you have any.

So, go gather your supplies and let’s get started.

Supplies/Tools Needed

6 yards black 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

5 yards red 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

macrame board or covered ceiling tile

T-pins

scissors

ruler/tape measure/yardstick

large hole steel embroidery needle

Directions to Make One Zig-Zag Macrame Headband

Step 1.

Cut one BLACK 4 1/4 yard cord.

Cut one BLACK 1 1/2 yard cord.

Cut one RED 4 1/4 yard cord.

Step 2.

Pin the cords to macrame board in the following order.

Pick up the black 4 1/4 yard, measure down 32″, pin it to the board. Longest end on the left side.

Pick up the 1 1/2 yard black cord, measure down 15″, pin it next to the black cord already on the board. Straight up. Tie an overhand knot on each cord end.

Pick up the red 4 1/4 yard cord, measure down 32″, pin it next to the “straight up” black cord. Longest end on the right side.

You should have cords lined up as black, black and red. See photo for assistance.

Step 3.

Using 3 cords as fillers and one left tying cord and one right tying cord, tie one Square Knot (SK) with the KNOB on the left.

Red under, black over, black over, red under.

Step 4.

Using 3 cords as fillers and one left tying cord and one right tying cord, tie one SK with the KNOB on the RIGHT.

Black under, red over, red over, black under

Step 5.

Continue tying square knots, alternating between a left knobbed SK and a right knobbed SK until you reach 20-22″ or your desired length.

Step 6 – Burying Cord Ends.

You will bury all cord ends EXCEPT for the one black cord with the overhand knot tied on the end. The filler cord.

Using the embroidery needle, start weaving your way up the knotwork. One knot at a time, to bury the cord ends. See photos.

You will bury 4 cords. I do 2 on the front side and 2 on the back side.

Trim buried cord ends.

Step 7.

Now determine the length you wish the back closure ties to be. Cut, tie overhand knots on the ends. Tie a bow in the back.

Congrats!! All done!! Here’s a picture of completed headband.

Just kidding!! I was feeling kind of silly. But, ya know, this headband would look cute in a box, given to a special person for Valentine’s Day. In red and white.

Today’s tutorial is a simple macrame headband with the same pattern, twisted diamond shape, repeated over and over until you reach the desired head size. I think this is probably the easiest one thus far.

I made several of them with this design. In brown, peach and burgundy.

This one I am making today is black with gray/black Marbella beads. It closes in the back with an elastic ponytail holder.

Supplies/Tools Needed

13 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

32 Marbella beads (3/8″)

macrame board or covered ceiling tile

T-pins

ruler/tape measure/yardstick

scissors

elastic ponytail holder (the thicker, stiffer kind)

sewing needle/black thread

Directions To Make Twisted Diamond Macrame Headband

Step 1.

Cut 3 cords 4 1/4 yards in length.

Step 2.

Find the center of the three 4 1/4 yard cords and mount to macrame board using T-pins.

Using the black elastic ponytail band, reverse lark’s head all 3 cords onto one side. See photo for assistance. Number cords 1-6.

With Cords 1-3, begin tying a Half Knot Sennet of 6 half knots. One right after the other in a vertical row. (The knots will start to twist. That is OK, it is supposed to do that.) Photo is showing one half knot. Keep tying until you have six (6). Repeat the same for Cords 4-6.

This finishes all knot tying and you are ready to sew up the cords to the opposite side of the elastic ponytail holder.

Take the cord ends and loop them through the ponytail holder.

Fit the ends tight around the elastic (on the backside). Hold firmly in place and begin to stitch the ends down. Continue until you have stitched all six cords around the elastic. Trim in the back. Melt cords ends lightly to keep from fraying. Don’t burn or scorch.

All done!! Now you can wear your headband. Congrats.

Note: This headband measures 20″ before adding the elastic holder. Adjust cord lengths to fit the size you wish to make.

Variation: If you don’t have an elastic ponytail holder, you can use a length of cord instead. Make a circle and half hitch to the circled cord. Do the same for the ending. Close the two sides by tying together. Like I did the burgundy one. (See photos)

Today’s tutorial will show you how to make a headband with two different closures. Back 1 and Back 2.

I am using 3 1/2 mm braided macrame cord since that is what I prefer to work with for headbands, belts and purses.

This is the headband I will make today. Like this one but with different color dice. You will have a choice of closing the back with a slide closure (Back 1) or with an elastic ponytail holder (Back 2). I have labeled the photos as such where necessary.

OK. Ready? Pick a back closure and let’s get started.

Supplies/Tools Needed

15 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

beads or other adornments

macrame board or covered ceiling tile

T-pins

ruler/tape measure/yardstick

scissors

large hole steel embroidery needle

ponytail elastic (the thicker, stiffer kind) for Back 2

Directions To Make Macrame Headband (2 closures)

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 4 yards in length.
Cut 2 cords 3 1/2 yards in length.

Step 2.

Find the center of the two 4 yard cords and mount to macrame board using T-pins.

Row 1. Tie one Square Knot (SK) with these cords.

Back 1: Leave 1/4″ loops at the top of SK. Don’t pull all the way down.

Back 2: Pull down tight on the top to eliminate any loops formed.

Step 3.

Working with the two 3 1/2 yard cords, measure down 44″ on one side and mount one cord to the left of the SK created in Step 2. Long side on the end. Repeat for the second cord but mount it to the right side of the SK on the macrame board. Long side on the end.

Row 2. Tie a SK with the 4 cords on the right and a SK with the 4 cords on the left. Number cords 1-8.

For Back 2, place one end of the ponytail holder UNDER Cords 4 & 5. See photo for assistance.

Continue alternating rows of square knots, beginning with 2 SK’s under the last dice/bead. Next row, 1 SK, Next row, 2 SK’s. Repeat until you have 22 rows of ASK’s for Back 1 and 21 rows of ASK’s for Back 2.

Step 7 – The Back Closure.

This step shows you two different ways to close up the back. Cords 4 & 5 slide to close for Back 1. Cords 4 & 5 loop around the ponytail holder for Back 2.

Back 1 Closure. Slide Cords 5 & 6 through the loops created at the top in Step 2. Pull on cords to open and close the back.

Back 2 Closure. Flip your work so you are working on the underside. Tie one square knot with Cords 3-6 to secure ponytail holder. See photo for assistance.

Step 8 – Burying Tail Cords.

This completes all knot tying. This next step is the hard part. It probably takes just as long as the knot tying. BUT for a finished look, the extra cords need to be BURIED into the knotwork.

You want to be careful to always go up through a knot to “catch” the cord. You don’t want to undo your knotwork and pull the knot out. Refer to photos for assistance. Work each cord upwards of the knotwork. One cord at a time. You can decide how far to go up. The further up, the better secure the back will be.

Flip your work. You will be working on the backside.

Step 9. Back 2 Closure.

All 8 cords need to be buried. I always start with Cord 5 (not sure why, I just do). Pull Cord 5 through opening of large-hole embroidery needle.

Burying Cord 5.

Burying Cord 4.

5 cords buried.

All 8 cords buried.

Pull up tight to smooth out. Trim cords close to the knots.

Step 10. Back 1 Closure.

Bury only Cords 1-3 and 6-8. Cords 4 & 5 are used to slide close the back.

Basically you will follow the same steps as for Back 2, just have two fewer cords to bury.

Today’s tutorial teaches you a technique for closing the open holes along the outer edges. This one is EASY!! You will be able to take this design and create your own belts.

AND you aren’t limited to just belts. The crossover can be worked into any macrame project for a different look. I am using this method for some of my headbands.

I also used it when creating the black belt I made. It is just wider. I used more cords.

Supplies/Tools Needed

28 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

1″ – 1 1/4″ round button

8 small beads for tail cords (optional)

macrame board or covered ceiling tile

T-Pins

tape measure/ruler/yardstick

scissors

needle/thread to sew on button

Directions to Make Cross-Over Macrame Belt

Step 1.

Cut 2 cords 6 1/2 yards long.
Cut 2 cords 7 1/2 yards long.

Step 2.

Find the centers of the two 6 1/2 yard cords and pin side by side to macrame board.

Tie one Square Knot (SK). Push knot up close to the top. Pull down on the filler (center) cords to eliminate any loops formed at the top.

Step 3.

Find the centers of the 7 1/2 yard cords and pin one cord to the left side of SK created in Step 2 and one cord to the right side.

Tie a SK with the 4 left cords and one SK with the 4 right cords. Number cords 1-8.

Step 4. Tie SK with cords 3-6.

Step 5. The Cross-Over Step.

Take Cord 1 and CROSSOVER cord 2. Using Cords 2, 1, 3 & 4–tie a SK.

Take Cord 8 and CROSSOVER cord 7. Using Cords 5,6, 8 and 7–tie a SK.

Step 6.

Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until you reach the desired waist length. The last row, before starting the buttonhole, should have ONE square knot.

Step 7. Buttonhole.

Divide cords into two groups of four. Tie 5 SK sennet (tie one SK right after the other in a vertical row) with Cords 1-4. Repeat for Cords 5-8. Tie one SK with Cords 3-6.

Step 8. Tie one large SK using Cords 1-2 as left tying cords, Cords 3-6 as filler (the middle) and Cords 7-8 as right tying cords.

Step 9. Tails.

Decide the length desired for the tail cords. Cut cords, string a small bead to each cord or every other cord. Tie an overhand knot in the tail ends. Trim cord close to the tip. Melt cord to keep from fraying with matches or lighter. Hold fire to tip a nanosecond so you don’t burn or scorch the cord.

Step 10.

Line up buttonhole to the front end of belt. Determine placement of button. Sew on button.

All done. Finished!! Ready to wear your belt. You could also wear this around your neck as a necklace. Two for one. Pretty neat, huh!!

Note: Cord length used for this belt yielded 34″ BEFORE the buttonhole. Total belt length with tails is 45″. Cut cord shorter or longer to obtain the desired waist length.

Today’s tutorial is another macrame belt. I named this belt Hootie. It reminds me of an owl’s face. I have been making lots of belts lately and really like this design. Even though it features the dreaded DDHH.

DDHH=Diagonal Double Half Hitch.

I don’t know why I am not fond of this knot. It is easy to make. It is not hard on my hands. I think it could be because I like to go for perfection. And with this knot, I don’t always get it right the first time. I stare at each one for a few seconds. And then redo about every fifth one. So… that could be why I don’t work with them much.

But, that said, I am going to show you how to make them anyway. Maybe you will like them. If you plan to go into micro-macrame jewelry you will need to know DHH. A lot of the patterns use them.

Let’s get started.

You will need.

32 yards of 3 1/2mm braided macrame cord

5-8 beads (depending on # of DDHH sections) measuring 3/8″ up to 1/2″

8 additional small beads for the tail cords (optional)

macrame board or covered ceiling tile

T-pins

scissors

yard stick, tape measure or ruler

Directions to make Hootie Macrame Belt.

Step 1. Cut eight 4 yard cords.

Step 2.
Find the center of each cord and pin the centers side by side vertically on the macrame board. You will work bottom half of the belt first. Number cords 1-8.

Step 3.

Row 1: Tie one Square Knot with cords 3-6.

Row 2: Tie 2 Square Knots (SK) with cords 1-4 and 5-8.

Rows 3-10: Repeat Rows 1 & 2 four times.

Row 11: Tie one SK with cords 3-6.

Step 4.
You will tie Diagonal Double Half Hitch knots (DDHH) in this step. Using a T-pin, pin Cord 1 diagonally to board.

Cord 1 will be the right diagonal anchor cord and you will double half hitch cords 2 through 4 onto it. Begin with Cord 2. Refer to photo for assistance, as needed.

Now, do the same on the right side, using Cord 8 as the left diagonal anchor cord. Double half hitch cords 5 through 7 onto it. Begin with Cord 7 and work down.

Step 5.
Next, you will shape the “face” of the owl. With Cords 1-3 (only one filler cord), tie a sennet of 4 SK’s. One after the other in a vertical row. Repeat for Cords 6-8.

Add one bead (no larger than 1/2″) to Cords 4-5. See photo. (Renumber cords in your head. No need to remark them.)

Step 6.
In this step, you will tie more DDHH’s but using different anchor holding cords. Pin Cord 4 diagonally left to board. Double half hitch cords 1-3 onto it. Begin with Cord 3.

Now, do the same on the right side, using Cord 5 as the right diagonal anchor cord. Pin Cord 5 diagonally right to board. Double half hitch Cords 6-8 onto it. Begin with Cord 6 and work down.

Step 7.
Repeat Steps 3 through 6 until you reach the length desired OR until you are about 14″ from the shortest cord. Last row should have only ONE SQUARE KNOT.

Step 8.
Tie one large SK using Cords 1-2 on the left as tying cords, 3 through 6 as fillers, and 7-8 as right tying cords. Repeat twice more for a total of 3 large SK’s.

Step 9.
The Tail. Determine how long you wish the tail to be. You should have about 12″ to work with. Cut the ends even or stagger.

Add one small bead to every other cord. Tie an overhand knot at the tip of each 8 cords. Trim close to the knot. Melt cords to keep from fraying. Touch cord lightly with match or lighter. Do not burn or scorch.

Step 10.
You are finished with the bottom half of the belt and now ready to work the top half. Unpin belt from board. Reverse directions.

When you first started this belt, you tied one SK with Cords 3-6. Locate this knot and BEGIN WITH STEP 4.

Next work Step 5 and Step 6.
Now go to Step 7.

Make the same number of sections to match the upper half OR until you are about 14″ from the shortest cord. Last row should have only ONE SQUARE KNOT.

Repeat Steps 8 and 9.

Done!! Congrats. You can now wear your belt.

Notes: Variations of this belt are endless. You can tie fewer SK rows in between the Hootie faces.

You can add as many Hootie faces as you wish.

You can add a belt buckle instead of tying in the front.

Add more beads, less beads. Or you can go completely without beads. Be creative and make this pattern your own.

Measurements and Cord Length:

Lavender belt measures 30″ from Large SK to Large SK. Total length (including tail) end-to-end is 60″.

Burgundy belt measures 36″ from Large SK to Large SK. Total length end-to-end is 62″.

Turquoise belt measures 40″.

Cutting 4 yard cords works for all of these. Or you can experiment with shorter cord lengths, as desired.