Yeah that sleeving looks epic, I'm just being lazy and getting the Corsair braided cables for my PSU lol. I have done some though, I do all my fans, and SATA cables, and front I/O etc.. So I'm not completely noobish :L Getting the USB3 done was nearly impossible though, I got the braiding on fine, but I couldn't get any heatshrink over the MoBo header that would shrink enough so I've had to use electrical tape :s

That sleeving job is just....STUPID NICE!!! Inspirational to say the least. PSU mount is a win, especially to show off the magnificent sleeving.

Yeah it does work out quite nicely. Ironically I didn't originally plan on getting this
PSU and the other one would have been mounted differently (long story for another
day).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Remmy

Yeah that sleeving looks epic, I'm just being lazy and getting the Corsair braided cables for my PSU lol. I have done some though, I do all my fans, and SATA cables, and front I/O etc.. So I'm not completely noobish :L Getting the USB3 done was nearly impossible though, I got the braiding on fine, but I couldn't get any heatshrink over the MoBo header that would shrink enough so I've had to use electrical tape :s

Yeah USB and that stuff is quite a PITA IMO.

I have to admit that it does take an absolutely ridiculous amount of time, especially
when using the techniques I'm using. Since I'm taking a forced break from college
at the moment (bad health, see intro post for log) part of the reason for all this
intricacy is admittedly just keeping myself busy.

Since I've been asked several times now how I did the lacing I've drawn up a few
very rough (and confusing ) sketches. Since I can't yet do the video this
is all I got at the moment.

Basic Concept

As you can see (I hope), the basic concept is to have a thread running across
the top and bottom of the wire bundle and then do loops around them.

When you do a downwards loop, you go straight down, and when you come back up
again, you change one wire over when you're in the middle. This pulls the next
wire to the ones you've already laced.

(click image for full res)

Front-View Step by Step

Step 1

First you loop the lace around the wire pack like this. Whenever there's a
crossing of wires in the third dimesion, red denotes the wire running in the
foreground.

Magenta represents continuity between steps. This is all just one piece of lace,
not several.

(click image for full res)

Step 2

After that, loop the lace around the vertical end part once and go between the
first pair of wires. This is the loop by itself:

(click image for full res)

And within context:(click image for full res)

Step 3

After that you go across the package of wires using vertical loops. As mentioned,
you go down straight and when you come back up you switch one wire over.

(click image for full res)

With context:(click image for full res)

Step 4

At the last pair of wires, instead of going one wire over (there's no wire there
of course ), you go back across the entire package between the two layers, then
loop around the vertical end again (as in the beginning) and go to where the start
of the lace comes out. Then you make a knot.

(click image for full res)

Which then leaves you with this mess:(click image for full res)

Note: It's quite tricky to keep everything taut all the time. Instead of trying that,
simply tighten down at both ends of the lace between steps (you'll easily realize when
the package is not tightly packed). It greatly depends on what kind of lace you use.
Nylon is very slippery and quite difficult to work with, lacing cord (usually waxed
cotton) is quite convenient.

I will still do a video, but in the mean time this might help a bit. I know it's a
bit messy, but if you don't understand a specific step let me know and I might be
able to draw up a clearer sketch for some more detail of that part.

EDIT: Something I forgot: I usually tie the two ends of the thread to large
paper clips to be able to thread it through the wires. Otherwise this might drive
a person insane.

Great job on the cable lacing alpenwasser ,
it looks like very tedious work , but the end result looks very nice.

Yeah it is indeed quite tedious, especially when using Nylon. The waxed cotton cord
I've used for ZEUS is much easier to work with, but is of course a lot thicker.

The other tricky phase is that when you've only done the first few wires and can't
yet tighten things down. It looks like quite a mess in the beginning and only really
takes shape once you've laced a few wires together and it doesn't come loose every
time you're adding a new one.

Did a few more wires over the weekend. However, to my great astonishment I had
to realize that the 80 metres of 16 AWG I had ordered are in fact only about 40 m
long.

I've contacted the company and they swear they sent out 80 metres, which leads
me to believe that the other 40 m got stolen on its way to me. I just don't believe
that they would do this on purpose since if I had realized this sooner I could have
easily given them negative feedback on eBay (they have a great reputation, so
surely they would care about this), and I don't think you would accidentally only
pack half the amount of wire ordered by mistake.

Thievery is not as ridiculous as it sounds. Copper is highly desired by thieves around
here, sometimes they dismantle entire railway copper lines (the ground wires, not
the power carrying ones, of course). And since it is very hard to notice (just look at
how long it took me), if it gets noticed at all, it's quite an easy crime to get away
with (espeically considering nobody would ever seriously investigate something as
small as this).

So, I've ordered 60 m more 16 AWG wire and will continue the cable making when
that gets here (if it gets here ).

In the mean time I will have to find something else to keep me busy, I'll let you know
what that is when I find out.