WHY HONG KONG? Despite its colonial past, this is a very Chinese city. It can be as Western or as Eastern as you want it to be.

WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST WHEN YOU ARE AWAY? The surprises down every side street, in every crooked alley. Hidden temples, vivid markets and peaceful parks amid skyscrapers.

WHAT'S THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU RETURN? Have a foot massage. Joy Ocean in the Midlevels (49 Caine Road) has big, comfortable chairs and women with vice-like grips. I won't lie, it's uncomfortable at first, but you feel amazing afterwards.

WHERE'S THE BEST PLACE TO STAY? For an upscale treat, stay at the Mandarin Oriental in Central (5 Connaught Road, Central; 00852 2820 4202; www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong; doubles from £275). For a more homely experience, try one of the Shama properties (in Midlevels on a monthly basis or Central for shorter stays). The perfectly located serviced apartments make the ideal base at a reasonable price (3100 8555; www.shama.com; studios for two in Central, £125 per night).

WHERE WOULD YOU MEET FRIENDS FOR A DRINK? I love the Cavern on D'Aguilar Street for the cheesiness of the live music. For a more sophisticated evening I'd head to dragon-I nearby at 60 Wyndham Street (www.dragon-i.com.hk) Its open-air seating is bliss on balmy nights. Or get the best view of Hong Kong from the Aqua Spirit Bar in Tsim Sha Tsui (1 Peking Road; 3427 2288).

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES FOR LUNCH? Yung Kee in Central for dim sum (32-40 Wellington Street; 2522 1624). In general, this is an excellent occasion to come over all British… join any queue in front of a noodle shop in Central at lunchtime. I've never been disappointed.

AND FOR DINNER? It has to be Hutong (28th fl, 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Sui; 3428 8342; www.aqua.com.hk), for the views, the ambience and the (very hot) chilli crab. Take the Star Ferry there to add to the experience (get an upper-deck ticket).

WHERE WOULD YOU SEND A FIRST-TIME VISITOR? For a walk. It's easy to see only Hong Kong's modern face, but small wonders are everywhere if you walk up, above Queen's Road, west of the escalators. Have tea at the Peninsula (Salisbury Road, Kowloon). Visit the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden (MTR Prince Edward Station). Wander the traditional medicine lanes in Sheung Wan (Wing Lok Street, Des Voeux Road West, Ko Shing Street, Bonham Strand West), where dried seafood, ginseng and bird's nests tickle the senses from open-fronted shops. Man Mo Temple is worth a visit (Hollywood Road). Or have a day out to visit the Giant Buddha, Po Lin Monastery and Wisdom path, all on Lantau Island.

WHAT WOULD YOU TELL THEM TO AVOID? The malls. And if you are squeamish, you'll want to avoid the 1,000-year eggs. They are creamy, slightly sweet, and delicious, made so by fermenting for months, until they are black and gelatinous.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR TAXI? Both. Taxis are very reasonable and the buses, MTR (Tube), trams and ferries are clean, good value and part of the adventure.

HANDBAG OR MONEYBELT? I never feel unsafe in Hong Kong, and crime is very low here, though do use "big city" common sense in crowded places.

WHAT SHOULD I TAKE HOME? For inexpensive souvenirs, find lotus slippers, jade baubles and Communist era propaganda at the Cat Street market (Upper Laskar Row). For tea beautifully packaged, try Ying Kee Tea House on 151 Queen's Road Central. Bespoke clothes can be great, but be sure you know the tailor's reputation, and don't try to rush the job.

Michele Gorman's novel, 'Single in the City' is out now (Penguin, £6.99)