We make hot cross buns every year, but this year I thought I'd take a look at the tradition, where it comes from and look at a more traditional recipe to our normal fare. So, I dug out my trusty Elizabeth David English Bread and Yeast Cookery. Published in the '70s, it's a weighty tome, but a great start when you really want to get to grips with something. I was rewarded with a wonderful verse of the well known rhyme that was previously unknown to me:

One for the poker,Two for the tongs;Three for the dust pan,Hot Cross Buns!

Thanks to modern technology, I lost none to the poker, tongs or dust pan. Following her guidance ,my resulting dough was stiffer than I would usually make, but no less soft and tender. I made some traditional deep crosses in the dough after proving and then piped the sweetened flour paste into the grooves. I was delighted with the results and think I'll stick with this method in future years.

As for the tradition itself, it seems it predates even medieval times. Evidence of fruit -studded loaves made to celebrate Eastre and the rites of Spring go back to pagan times. Then, as is so often the case, Christianity took over the pagan traditions. The crosses were a later addition, and were commonly cut into all manner of buns, loaves and cakes by superstitious bakers (for superstitious customers!) as a way of warding off evil spirits (that were naturally responsible for turning them mouldy). Then, during the reign of Elizabeth I, when the puritans were trying to rid England of all evidence of 'popery' as they saw it, the use of the cross was strictly limited and the practice was abandoned. However, one exception was made. At Easter, the use of the cross as a symbol was seen as appropriate and so the tradition of a little fruited loaf with a cross on continued. Traditionally, the cross was a haphazard, deep-cut marking but as time moves on we see embellishments appearing in the form of pastry or citrus peel crosses overlaying the scored cross. These days, you can see the piped cross on most modern buns. And, of course, everyone outdoes each other to come up with a new and exciting flavour not thought of before. For me, these traditional buns are an absolute delight. In fact, next year I might just try those candied peel crosses. If it ain't broke...

MethodPlace the egg and milk in your mixing bowl, then add your flour, sugar, spice and salt. Now crumble the fresh yeast into your flour, avoiding direct contact with the salt. Using your dough attachment, mix your dough on low speed for 1-2 minutes until smooth and well combined. Turn the speed up to medium fast and mix for a further 2-3 minutes until your dough is strong and elastic. Now you have developed the gluten, you can throw in the cubes of butter a few at a time, continuing to beat the dough. When the butter is all combined and your dough is smooth once more, you can add the dried fruit and mix in.

Now cover and rest your dough for about 1 1/2 hours until doubled in size. You can then turn out your dough on a lightly floured surface. De-gas and divide into 12 equal portions (about 120g dough each). Shape each piece of dough into a ball and place on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Cover and leave to prove for a further 2 hours (if your kitchen is warm, you may need less time; if cold, you may need more).

Meanwhile, prepare your paste for the crosses. Mix the flour, sugar and water together and place in a piping bag, with either a small nozzle or prepare to cut a small hole at the end of the bag.

Preheat your oven to 220C

When your buns are proved, pipe a narrow cross on each bun. If you have placed your buns in a 3x4 grid, you may find it easier to do this by running down the entire row of buns, rather than each individual one. Place them in the oven and immediately turn your oven down to 190C. Bake for 15-20 minutes, keeping an eye that they don’t brown too quickly - if so, turn your oven down by about 10 degrees.

Whilst your buns are baking, prepare your final glaze. Mix together 2 tbsp milk with 2 tbsp caster sugar in a saucepan. Heat gently until the sugar is dissolved. Allow to cool a little before using.

When the buns are baked and golden, place on a cooling rack and brush with your milky glaze. Allow to cool, but maybe just one won’t be missed whilst they’re still warm. After all, you were the one to bake them. It’s the least you deserve. Enjoy!

With the bakery so busy at this time of year, we have to prepare ahead with as much we can before Christmas.

Today has been a big baking day, tray upon tray of mince pies, several panforte and snowy drifts of ricciarelli adorn the worktops. Sausage rolls must wait until Christmas Eve - a baking ritual here at the White Cottage. I’d be in big trouble with the family if I dared to bake them beforehand. Christmas doesn’t start until that first sausage roll is baked and eaten. I am, however, allowed to prep the stuffing for the turkey and tuck it in the freezer until its needed.

Our stuffing this year will feature fennel seeds - I adore the combination of pork and fennel - with juicy prunes for their dark, fruity stickiness and the crunch of toasted pistachios. We have a ready supply of old scraps of sourdough here, but don’t buy some especially. However, do use good quality bread - even better, make your own!

It’s so easy to make the stuffing ahead of time, taking only minutes to prepare, and beats a packet of Sage & Onion every time.

MethodA great use of any old bits of sourdough you might have lying around (or in the freezer). Don’t use fresh - best at a week old. If the bread is still quite soft, slice and leave it out for a few hours (or overnight) before blitzing into crumbs.

Simply combine all the above ingredients, excluding the meat and egg. When evenly mixed, add the final ingredients and mix thoroughly with your hands. Will keep for several days in the fridge, or freeze until ready to use.

​We all have a go-to brownie recipe – that favourite hand-me-down recipe that serves as a well-earned afternoon chocolate fix or reliable last-minute pudding. Mine is one I adapted many moons ago from a Delia recipe that must be nearly 40 years old (sorry, Deels!).But during some recent, imposed ‘rest time’, I decided it was time to revisit the old stalwart and start to play around with my wonderful sourdough starters, keen as I am to use these fabulously fragrant fermented flours in my everyday baking. What I didn’t expect was such a game-changer! Truly.The recipe I share with you here is a wheat-free recipe that uses a fermented rye starter and a secret ingredient (not so secret anymore!) which means these brownies have amazing keeping qualities and, even a day or so after baking, maintain that deliciously soft, squidgy interior and crunchy outside. In fact, like so many sourdough treats, I’d venture they even improve over time.

If you don’t have a fermented rye starter, perhaps it’s time to start one. But if you’re impatient to get baking, you can manage without, using the substitutions in the recipe. GF version also available.​

Ingredients:125g rye starter* (at approx. 100% hydration), not more than 24 hours old. If using very old starter from the back of the fridge, give it a refresh a few hours before using.

*if you don’t have a rye starter, substitute with one extra egg and 70g rye flour (or ground almonds to make a gluten-free version).​

Method:Break your chocolate into little pieces and melt with the butter using your usual method, be it over a pan of hot water, gently in the microwave or at the back of your Aga – the key is do this slowly and gently to preserve the integrity of your good quality chocolate. Meanwhile, measure out and mix together your ground almonds, salt & baking powder. Weigh out your sugar – regular, granulated is just fine – and prepare your eggs by beating lightly with a fork.

​​When your butter and chocolate are completely melted, take away from the heat. First add your sugar and stir in, before adding the eggs. Now stir in your rye starter and tahini, mixing well before finally adding the dried ingredients. Mix until just combined, then pour into your lined tin – I recommend a 9 inch square tin for this recipe.

​Sprinkle with chopped pistachios. These add a fabulous crunch to the outside of the brownie, but I prefer the middle to remain soft and squidgy and nut-free. The pistachios can be salted or unsalted, but if using the latter, I like to add a frugal sprinkling of salt flakes to the topping.

Bake at 180°C for about 30 minutes. If you have a digital thermometer, look for a brownie core temperature of 90°C. This will ensure your bake is crunchy on the outside and beautifully squidgy on the inside. If you don’t have a thermometer, check the edges of your brownies are shrinking away from the sides of the tin.Allow to cool in the tin. When cold, cut and transfer to an airtight container where they will keep for as long as you’re able to resist them.Everybody is looking for something different in their perfect brownie. For me, these are Brownie Nirvana. My work here is done.​