A psychologist and top hairstylists reveal how certain cuts, colors, and textures are perceived in the workplace

In Working Girl, when Tess famously lops off her below-the-shoulder tresses for a chin-length bob, she proclaims with resolve, "You wanna be taken seriously, you need serious hair." The notion hasn't changed much since the box-office hit first debuted in 1988. "Hairstyle and hair color may not be accurate indicators of personality, but society's stereotypes can sometimes influence how various styles and colors are perceived," says Erin Bogart, colorist at Sally Hershberger Downtown New York. And in the professional world, where first impressions are everything, your hairstyle can easily work for—or against—your chance of success.

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"Though policies on what hairstyles are acceptable in the workplace have loosened, hair can still signify certain levels of professionalism," says Midge Wilson, PhD, professor of psychology at DePaul University.

The question is what sort of messages are your tresses sending? Is your hair helping you rise to the top—or holding you back?

BLOND VS. BRUNETTE
Experts agree that blonds tend to be seen as more fun than brunettes. "Of course they have more fun," says L'Oréal Professionnel INOA colorist Jonathan Gale. "They're radiating light everywhere and beaming energy."

And dumb-blond jokes still have a way of creeping into conversation—just ask Amber Porter, a Web editor who has highlighted her self-described "dirty dishwater" strands for nearly half her life: "People make a lot of comments, from `Oh, you are a blond' when I say or do something silly, to giving me a nickname like Blondie during business meetings."

But now there's evidence that blonds are beginning to get a more serious rep. While a 2002 survey by Clairol revealed that of the 1,000-plus women interviewed, 76 percent believed the first female president of the United States would be a brunette, a similar survey by Clairol in 2008 yielded split results between a brunette and a blond. "Today blond women are the new brunettes, and they have Hillary Clinton to thank for that," says Franco Della Grazia, senior stylist at Cutler Salon in NYC. "She's a powerful woman, telling it like it is, sitting down with heads of state from all over the world. I don't know how much fun she's having, but she's being taken seriously."

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Interestingly, if you're in a creative or artsy field, says Wilson, it could be to your advantage to go either superblond (think Agyness Deyn's platinum phase) or superdark (note Nicole Richie's deep brown locks), rather than choosing an au naturel hue, which tends to send a neutral message. "While a natural-looking color fits in better at more conservative offices, bold color can be an asset in the creative workplace," says Bogart.

Blond or brunette, a strong statement that doesn't bode well is grown-out color. "If you attend an interview and your roots are blatantly showing, you will not be called back for a second interview," says Della Grazia.

REDHEADS
The majority of women surveyed by Clairol in 2008 said that if they could change their hair color for a day, they'd go red—and it's no wonder: "If you look at the major fashion campaigns this season, you'll see that the hottest color is red," says Della Grazia, who cites Tom Ford's leading lady and current Bulgari spokesmodel Julianne Moore, an actress whose auburn locks are coveted the world over.

In the workplace, those with Moore's fiery hair color are seen as "strong, passionate, and goal-oriented individuals who get the job done," says Bogart.

Tapping into this strong, passionate presence is exactly what Lili* was going for when she made the transition from brunette to redhead last October after being laid off from her job in the ad sales department of a publishing company. "I was a redhead for a time in college, my so-called glory days," says Lili. "On some level, I wanted to reconnect with that person because I was never more self-aware and confident than I was during those years. I'd lost sight of myself when I was in sales. I felt out of place and as if I was playing a part. Going back to red was just one step in rediscovering the artistic, adventurous me—someone who's willing to fight for what she wants."

SHORT HAIR VS. LONG HAIR
Like Lili, ELLE's own Johanna Cox made a dramatic hairstyle change in the hopes of forging a fresh start. Referring to her decision to get a close-cut pixie as "heartbreak-related," Cox says her inspiration came from a photo of a short-haired model she saw on TheSartorialist.com: "I printed it out and chopped at least 12 inches that afternoon." Of course, sporting such a noticeably short do garnered some strong responses from coworkers.

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"I cut it when I was working in defense in Washington, D.C., and the male reaction was pretty chilly," says Cox. "There were maybe one or two male law-enforcement agents who were complimentary and said they preferred short hair, but the rest were openly perplexed. I found the majority of men preferred women to appear traditionally feminine, and they didn't get and certainly weren't drawn to any androgynous bent—be it hair or dress or whatever."

"A lot of men in the workplace make assumptions about a woman's sexual orientation based on the length of her hair," acknowledges Wilson, who says that fellow female employees tend to be more embracing.

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"All the women I worked with liked it—every single one," says Cox. "Even those who couldn't bear to cut their own hair an inch totally supported my decision to go short."

While Cox's decision to go short was fueled by the desire for a fresh start, stylist James Vides of Sally Hershberger Downtown New York adds that there's also an implied confidence about a women who wears a shorter cut. "It always seems that in a group, it's the girl with short hair who comes off as the most confident, youthful, fun, and flirty," says Vides. "It takes a lot of self-assurance to pull off a short hairstyle, but as long as you love it, you can rock it."

For her part, Cox is rocking it—two and a half years later, the breakup-induced pixie remains. "I've woken up every morning really liking the way my hair looks with my face, my makeup, and my clothing," she says. "I never felt that kind of confidence with medium or long hair."

But just as Cox is most comfortable with short hair, there are those who feel their best with longer hair.

Regardless of length, Wilson says the key is giving the impression that your hair is low-maintenance: "Short and manageable or, if it's long, pulled back into a chignon or low ponytail—so that you're not shaking it out of your eyes, tucking it behind your ear, and wrapping your finger around it," she says. "These kinds of things can be very distracting and can send the message that you aren't task-focused."

Della Grazia agrees: "A woman who turns up for a corporate job interview with long, superstyled hair will be perceived as high-maintenance. And, unfortunately, a woman who labors over her hairstyle and appearance will be seen as someone who might spend too much time on herself—and not enough on her work."

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CURLY VS. STRAIGHT
"Straight hair reflects more shine than curly hair, feels more groomed, and can be slimming," says Kérestase celebrity colorist and stylist Ashley Javier, adding that in the workplace, women with straight hair are often perceived as being more serious than those with curls. (Take caution with a flatiron, however, to avoid appearing "too hard," says Della Grazia.) "Curly haired women are thought to be carefree and approachable."

But while those with sleek strands might convey steadfast efficiency, "women with curly hair are seen as risk-takers—people that are prepared to go out on a limb for the company," says Della Grazia.

The one rule of thumb when it comes to curls: Keep them well-coiffed. "If you choose to wear your hair curly for an interview, make sure it's under control and doesn't upstage you and your talents," says Erin Anderson, co-owner of Woodley and Bunny apothecary and salon in Brooklyn.

In order to have "consistent, not frizzy" coils, Della Grazia says some styling is necessary.

To help defrizz her thick corkscrews, Amanda Joyce, a marketing associate for an executive travel magazine, occasionally skips shampoo in the shower, using only conditioner. Post-wash, she uses a gel and finger-combs it through her hair. "Then I'll let it air-dry. If I'm leaving to go somewhere and the weather is colder, I'll use a diffuser," says Joyce.

When perfecting her loose ringlets, Web producer Padmini Mangunta uses styling cream and a curling iron. "My hair is very unruly, so unless I curl and style it, it doesn't look that great on an everyday basis," she says. Mangunta also wears her curls shorter "because they automatically look more styled that way." In fact, she recently cut "about four inches off the back" for a " layered, wavy bob," a curly hairstyle that the pros endorse.

BANGS
Blunt bangs are often interpreted as trendy and bold—perfect for creative workplaces. "You will definitely give off a high-fashion, strong, and secure message with blunt bangs," says Vides. "It gives you a very definitive look."

But while blunt bangs are in for spring and summer, Vides says they are easiest to pull off with straight hair, which naturally lies more flat against the forehead. Ann Binlot, a fashion journalist, has blunt, superstraight strands, thanks to her Asian ancestry. "I wanted a new look, so I told my stylist to do what she felt was right, and she gave me blunt-cut bangs," says Binlot. "My coworkers and friends noticed them right away and loved them—they gave me a completely different look and were really stylish. I think people tend to think you're more of a hipster if you have blunt bangs."

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Binlot's jet-black hair color may have also contributed to the instant endorsement she received from peers. "If your hair is dark, blunt bangs look more dramatic," says Della Grazia, who says the most flattering blunt-bang length, regardless of hair color, is "on or just below the eyebrows."

Even if you lack Binlot's inky strands and poker-straight hair, you can still sport a face-framing style, just one that's less severe. Side-swept fringe, hair guru Ted Gibson and Anderson say, accentuates eyes and cheekbones and complements a wider variety of hair textures and face shapes. Side-swept fringe is also regarded as softer and better suited for conservative office settings.

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Lili's hair is dyed a reddish hue and has a natural wave to it, but she is currently sporting one-length fringe that she loves. "It's just fun," she says simply, adding, "Even if blunt bangs don't work, they're never permanent. And it's a great way to change up your look without paying for a total overhaul on the rest of your head."

Javier agrees: "The great thing about bangs is that they're the one section of your hair where, even if you style nothing else, you'll look chic and fashionable."

MIDDLE PART VS. SIDE PART
After she "got sick of" her blunt bangs, a center part was Binlot's natural choice: "I work in an eclectic office, so I decided to go with a bolder middle part."

Michelle McIvor, editorial director of a women's website, chooses to part her hair on the side. "I'm sure I must have had a middle part at some point, maybe when I was younger," she says, "But my hair just falls naturally to the side. I don't really give much thought to it."

The verdict on middle versus side parts: Like blunt bangs, a middle part is considered a bolder, edgier statement than the side-swept alternative, which Javier calls "more preppy and sophisticated."

"A middle part is a strong look," says Vides. "But depending on how you style it, it can become much softer. For example, if you blow it out with soft layers or waves, a middle part becomes less harsh."

For a job interview, Vides suggests a side part or no part at all: "It's less distracting and frames your face in a softer way, so it puts more emphasis on the total image you are presenting."

While the impact of a side part might be less severe than its center counterpart, don't discount the more subtle message at play, say siblings John and Catherine Walter, whose 1999 "Hair Part Theory" garnered considerable interest from the media (The Atlantic Monthly printed an article about the study upon its release). In matching the hair parts of U.S. congressmen, state governors, and presidents against key success factors, the Walters found that a left part draws unconscious attention to activities controlled by the left hemisphere of the brain—i.e., logic, problem-solving, linear thinking, etc.—and that politicians with left parts historically fare better. In a 2001 New Yorker article, the Walters even supposed that Al Gore's right part was the reason for his losing to the left-parted George W. Bush, pointing out that only three elected American presidents had a right-side part.

Outside of political circles, the right part fares more positively—especially if your aim is to become the next Elizabeth Gilbert or Lady Gaga. The Hair Part Theory purports that unconscious attention is drawn to activities controlled by the right hemisphere of the brain—i.e., visual, artistic, and musical skills, nonlinear thinking, etc. "The best writers, eggheads, and artists tend to part their hair on the right," noted Washington Post writer Henry Mitchell in 1979, who hypothesized that Jimmy Carter—a president plagued by unpopularity—switched from a right to left part midterm in hopes of separating himself from this elite and regaining a "populist image."

HAVING A HEALTHY HAIR IMAGE
No matter how society, employees, or potential employers may perceive certain hairdos, experts say the most office-appropriate coifs are ultimately the ones that make you feel most comfortable and confident.

Della Grazia encourages women to tailor their hairstyle to their office atmosphere without compromising their personal aesthetic: "You should be respectful of your work environment but still be able to show your true personality traits through your hairstyle," he says.

Striking a balance is important, says social psychologist Wilson, because wearing a do that's outside the realm of your comfort zone can result in a lack of confidence—something Lili experienced firsthand.

Since becoming a redhead, Lili has also grown out her angular bob to shoulder-length and has stopped flatironing her naturally wavy tresses. Wearing a style more in line with her personality, coupled with the positive feedback she's received from friends, she radiates a confidence that helped her land a creative job as a music journalist at a local New York City magazine. "As a brunette with short, straight hair I was just as talented and capable, but I connected with others differently. Now I take on new challenges," she says. "People notice that." They (including her new boss) also admire her red hair, bold fringe, and carefree waves—proof that, besides dressing for the job you want, styling your hair for it doesn't hurt either.