Thursday, 31 January 2013

Verru

Such a tonic it is to have a meal in a normal restaurant, and
I didn’t realise how long it had been after a good year of burgers, pop-ups,
small plates, single-item menus, wine tumblers and a lot of queuing.

Remember when you booked a table at a
certain time, arrived at that time and somebody took your coats, and offered
you some fizz and you were then seated at an empty, set table? Bread and real menus
follow (which are NOT placemats) and food is served to you all simultaneously
and in courses?

Yep it seems so odd that in a
new-ish place is offering what could depressingly now be seen as a traditional approach,
outside of the stratospheric bubble of fine dining. Step forward Verru, a curious mix of Scandinavian and Nordic food, prepared with
French techniques and served with bold colour.

At the top of burgeoning Marylebone Lane, it’s a tiny place
with little ambient noise save the clink of cutlery on porcelain and
self-consciously hushed conversation. An inescapably conspicuous arrival jars a
bit, but it soon dissipates as you slump into comfy seats, and fresh bread and booze arrive.

Yellow pea soup with a topping of crunchy goose was a
fantastic start. The soup was rich and deep in flavour and the goose did the
job of posh bacon bits admirably.

A tick list Scandi starter of meatballs on mash with carrot
puree was rich and creamy – the crumbly, homemade meatballs providing a bit of
texture to the smooth accompaniments. Correctly made, you can discern the different
meats involved, including veal which is a must.

The other starters were herring and mackerel, neither being
my favourite fish so I must come clean and admit I didn’t taste them. But
feedback was lofty indeed – the herring was surrounded by fantastical mushrooms
and presented in an on-trend “oh look what I just casually scattered” forage-y
style.

Mackerel was also entangled in a forest of Thor only knows what, and
with a brick of caramelised ham hock for good measure.

Onto the mains – lamb rump with homemade lamb sausage (so
close to that Masterchef chestnut of ‘X three ways’) with a slightly spicy
chutney, chickpeas and red pepper. Very good dish, although the lamb sausage
had a very high meat content and did almost get the better of me.

Halibut with pork belly was another star. Perfectly cooked
and presented.

And finally, the venison. Again, beautifully presented and
cooked with the obligatory red sauce and a smidgen of potato. There is some
real care and attention in the kitchen at Verru and it shows.

Prices were £7-10 for starters and £16-20 for mains, but
there was also a cheaper set menu including a steak option for £16 including a
glass of wine. We had a sneaky side order of chips which were triple cooked and
excellent – but definitely needed.

I liked Verru a lot and would recommend it to anyone. It isn’t
the buzziest scene you’ll encounter in 2013, but go for exquisite
presentation (provided you like a good pea swirl), thoughtful flavour
combinations and attentive service.

Riotous booze-ups should probably go elsewhere – ruling out
my friends certainly – but it’s a discreet, relaxed and for 2013, defiantly
old-school option for a culinary twist on a date or the parental meal out.

Food – 9/10

Drink – 7/10

Service - 8/10

Value – 7/10

Tap water tales – 5/10 (not offered but once established, topped up a lot with ice)