Deolloz wrote:I would like to know, do I have to have the 3g modem upgrade in order to get the Sirius traffic subscription, or can I have that without having 3g? Thanks for the tip(s) about the maps -- at this point in time, I'll probably stick with using my cell phone for most navigational purposes. What effect, if any, does charging a cell phone have on range? With a limited range in the ~40 mile area, I'm hesitant to do even little things like charge my cell phone while driving!

You do not need the 3G modem upgrade for SiriusXM Traffic since it just uses the satellite system. You do need the modem upgrade to get updated public charger information on the navigation system and to use the remote climate control activation and other EV Connect (CarWings) features. Cellular phone charging has absolutely no impact to range so don't worry about it.

To answer some of your other questions: The maximum cold inflation pressure of the OEM Bridgestone Ecopias is 44 psi and I highly recommend that you run them at that for best handling, wet/dry traction, tire wear, and range. The A/C is very efficient and has minimal impact on range unless the heating elements in the little hot water tank are activated (this is another reason to implement the heater cutoff modification).

Deolloz wrote:Leftie Biker, so it's safe to inflate the tires up to 40-42? I believe my tires on the car are "run flats," I was told there "wasn't spare tire" in the vehicle. Is that true?

I don't know where/how to install a heater on/off switch? Is that a modification that has to get added to the car by a mechanic or the dealer?

Thank YOu.

They aren't run flats unless someone has changed them to be so, which is highly unlikely as most run flats are low profile and would have needed new rims. They also would have badly affected range of the car. You don't have a spare because Nissan decided that it wasn't necessary. Some people have found compatible temporary spares at junk yards to carry around, but I always figured that having AAA was good enough. If I lived in a rural area, I might feel differently.

The maximum inflation pressure for the tire should be stamped on the sidewall of the tire.

I've got Bridgestone Driveguard runflats on my "11 on the original factory rims. The mileage only took about a .5 m/KWH hit. It is worth it having the piece of mind that I don't have to do a tire swap or call a wrecker in the event of a flat. I run them at 40 psi year round.

GerryAZ wrote:4. The heater cut off switch is a necessary modification because the heating elements in the little hot water tank are activated whenever the HVAC is on if ambient temperature is lower than 60 F or the set point, if higher (even just for ventilation). I actually ran the 2011 dead on my way home once when I had ventilation on (without heat) and the temperature was low enough to activate the 5 kW heating elements. I did not notice the extra power draw until it was too late and ran the car dead about 1/2 mile from home. I then made a temporary modification by putting a resistor in place of the liquid temperature sensor. I would have purchased the plug-and-play kit from Tor as a permanent fix if the car had not been totaled.

Gerry,

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!

It's less of an issue in the summer because the outside temp is less likely to get so low that setting the thermostat to it's lowest wouldn't keep the heater off. However, depending on your local climate, it might still happen late at night, or early in the morning. It's also a bit of a pain to keep dialing the temp up and down depending on whether you want AC or not.

A question about the heater control module switch. Does it have any benefit during the hot summer months, or is it only helpful during cold winter months? have already purchased the kit online, just wanting to see if I should install it now or if I could wait a few months. Thank you Gerry!

It's less of an issue in the summer because the outside temp is less likely to get so low that setting the thermostat to it's lowest wouldn't keep the heater off. However, depending on your local climate, it might still happen late at night, or early in the morning. It's also a bit of a pain to keep dialing the temp up and down depending on whether you want AC or not.

It is worth installing now. Believe it or not, the 2011 and 2012 HVAC control systems sometimes run the heater in conjunction with the A/C compressor to moderate the discharge temperature from the dash or floor vents. It does not happen too often, but can sneak up on you and significantly reduce range. To minimize the possibility of that happening before you get the kit installed, set the desired temperature really low and control the amount of cooling by adjusting the fan speed (do not use Auto). I used to set the temperature to 60 F and run the fan on a relatively low speed after getting the car cooled down.

bitmanEV wrote:during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.

bitmanEV wrote:during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.

Gerry,

Assuming I get the heater control switch kit installed soon ( it already arrived in the mail):

Before installing, do I need to pre-set the HVAC to a specific setting?

After the install, considering its hot here in Austin right now (~100), I will keep the AC on 60 degrees and lowest fan setting once cooled, then what setting do I put the switch at, 0, 1, or 2? Will that change in the winter months?

bitmanEV wrote:during the summer is have the switch on OFF to be sure that's OFF

To keep the heater from running, you want the lowest resistance resistor switched in parallel with the temperature sensor so that would either be position 1 or 2 (not off). The OFF position is for normal heater operation.

not sure what you are talking about but i have my switch (mod from Tor) OFF during the whole summer