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First off, I should have found this thread before I posted up my ft4wd dr/dccd thread lol. You already had all the answers I needed here lol. Excellent post!

A friend of mine raced a few stage rally seasons with an obx front in a fwd GC transmission, left foot braking definitely helps transfer power. They can be rebuilt fairly easy with upgraded bolts and washers. Using a dremel to clean up some of the cheap manufacturing flaws can go a long way as well. They are just too cheap not to tinker with. Being a straight quaife knock off they do the job pretty well, its the cheap production that causes problems. If you run one right out of the box expect some metal sludge on your drain plug.

Here's a decent post on DI with info on rebuilding an obx.. loren also installs a beefy vlsd center as well (interesting read even if you don't want to go with an obx):http://www.dirtyimpr...ead.php?t=17129

^That's interesting. That's a good idea to spend some of your own time to finish the production of them correctly.

I had a day off today, with nothing pressing on the agenda to get done. Wanted to make it out to the shop to get some SVX parts, but it didn't happen, probably before work on Wednesday...

Anyway, I spent some time on my transmissions. I decided to rock the 4.444, 1.2 and Carbonetic in the Brat. I bought some Anaerobic gasket maker and set to putting it all together today. Took a few tries to get the right order. Getting everything lined up on the input shaft was a bit of a pain (locating pin on the middle bearing, hi-lo shifter pivot, forward bearing flange, low range oil slinger). I forgot where the oil slinger went, thank goodness for the exploded diagrams of European models on www.opposedforces.com ! Then I got it in there, and realized it was also going to have clearance issues with the larger ring gear, so I had to pull it back off and grind it down a bit.

Then I remembered why I was excited to use the 1.6 case. The speedo cable base crumbled in the 1.2 case. So if I'm going to have a working speedo with that case, I need to figure out how to disassemble that shaft and clean out the remains of that plastic base, and replace the seal in there.

I think I'll put the PT4WD 1.6/3.9 case back together with some 25 spline axle stubs for a 5MT swap into my XT6. I should have everything I need to do it (If I can figure out which ring gear is right.....lots of transmissions have been parted out on my work bench :-p ).

What are the options for the tail section? In particular I'm wondering about the D/R transfer/low range shifter rod and an XT6 transfer section. In the PT4WD the rod engages the rear drive shaft in the transfer section and and passes clear through to engage the low range. In the RX it apparently just passes through on it's way to the low range. On the XT6 box there is a casting for it on the back, I'm not sure if it would need to be milled out or if there is a plug; there doesn't seem to be a matching casting on the front. Can the XT6 case be modified for Gloyale's version (and how are the oil seals accomplished?) or does the FT4WD locking center fit into the PT4WD transfer section, or perhaps the rod is routed externally to the transfer section?

Mike, You can make up an external rod to operate the low range - otherwise it's milling/drilling time and work out how to seal it and what sort of rod to use to pass through it.

This is what I'm up to on my FT4wd gearbox conversion. And no, you can't use the PT4wd rear casing, the centre diff just doesn't fit. Here's a pic of the two gearboxes, FT4wd in foreground, PT4wd in the background:

And the PT4wd in the foreground, FT4wd in the background:

Hope this helps.

And if anyone wants to ship me a good centre diff out of one of these EA FT4wd gearboxes I'd be most appreciative.

No idea where that went, but it would involve finding one of these FT4wd dual range gearboxes first - then swap the Ring and Pinion gears/centre LSD for the EJ 4.111:1 Ring and pinion with the matching EJ centre diff and rear housing.

So if it was done right with the FT parts and center lock would it be worth it with 27-29" tires?My math tells me that 4.11 vs 3.90 is ~5%.Is it worth the roughly $150 investment(3 transmissions at $50 each)?

looking at it some more 5% better gearing would be like running a 2" smaller tire.27's would feel like a 25" tire...

If you're going with 29 inch tyres and can get the pinion shaft cut and shut I'd recommend the 4.44:1 ratio diff - but you've got to shave more from the ring gear to fit the L series low range than you do with the 4.111:1 diff ratio. But it's still strong enough for the job.

So if it was done right with the FT parts and center lock would it be worth it with 27-29" tires?My math tells me that 4.11 vs 3.90 is ~5%.Is it worth the roughly $150 investment(3 transmissions at $50 each)?

looking at it some more 5% better gearing would be like running a 2" smaller tire.27's would feel like a 25" tire...

I might have to find some transmissions.

27-9 tires go with a EJ with the Low Tork Delta Cams its less work for similar results with the stock 3.9DR