Fightingthetide wrote:I remember seeing a chart someone made telling what weight Roc you should be throwing based on how far you throw them. Can anyone fish that up for me?

I just ordered 3 DX Rancho Rocs to try out for my mids. I have 2 beat D MD2's that have convinced me to return to base plastic mids. They flip up on a hard throw, track right and finish straight on a finesse shot, and work really well on tunnel shots. Is this what I can expect from DX Rocs once they break in?

When they are really really really really beat.

When they are just broken in, they flip up to flat, stay straight forever and end straight.

Morgan Lasley
When life gives you lemons, stick them in the freezer for a few hours, then throw them back, 'cause they're like rocks, man.

Fightingthetide wrote:I remember seeing a chart someone made telling what weight Roc you should be throwing based on how far you throw them. Can anyone fish that up for me?

I just ordered 3 DX Rancho Rocs to try out for my mids. I have 2 beat D MD2's that have convinced me to return to base plastic mids. They flip up on a hard throw, track right and finish straight on a finesse shot, and work really well on tunnel shots. Is this what I can expect from DX Rocs once they break in?

Not gonna search out that post but I do know that it was Blake T. who originally shared that wisdom with us. It was something like <300' = 165, 300'/340' = 170, 340'/380' = 175, 380'/420' = 178, >420 = max weight (these numbers are off from his i'm sure...but probly not too far off) And yes, that is a shot that I do with my medium to fairly seasoned Rocs.Edit: i'm pretty sure that Blake's (and in turn, my) chart was listing your max D with your drivers, not your Rocs.

Any one else finding these +mold dx rocs in stores? Many claims over at dgcr (I know, sources of greatly accurate info over there) that they are pretty much all going to be made in +mold configurations except kc pros.

Unfortunately, I don't know if I'd stick with the Roc if that happened. I really dislike the +mold configuration that much.

Ability is what you're capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it. -Lou Holtz -

victorb wrote:Any one else finding these +mold dx rocs in stores? Many claims over at dgcr (I know, sources of greatly accurate info over there) that they are pretty much all going to be made in +mold configurations except kc pros.

Unfortunately, I don't know if I'd stick with the Roc if that happened. I really dislike the +mold configuration that much.

I just ordered 3 DX Rocs from DGC and they said all of the new DX Rocs are plus molds, but more specifically a semi-plus mold that is somewhat in between flat and plus. They told me (on the phone) that Innova told them it produced less waste because they got better results with the semi-plus rim. Without diving into a rant, I'm not sure I buy it. How do you go SO long making one mold and now all of a sudden it needs to be changed....hmmm...

I'll let yo know what I think. If I can't stand them, I'll start searching for good 12x KC's.

Would definitely like to hear feedback. KCs just aren't quite the same as a dx, so I'd most likely just move to another mid for a primary, comet or md2 most likely. I hear the md2 has a plus rim but it wasn't noticeable to me at all when I tried them out.

Ability is what you're capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it. -Lou Holtz -

victorb wrote:Would definitely like to hear feedback. KCs just aren't quite the same as a dx, so I'd most likely just move to another mid for a primary, comet or md2 most likely. I hear the md2 has a plus rim but it wasn't noticeable to me at all when I tried them out.

Another problem - good C MD2's are hard to find and D MD2's are not in production (but they are sweet! I'm bagging 2 right now)

victorb wrote:Any one else finding these +mold dx rocs in stores? Many claims over at dgcr (I know, sources of greatly accurate info over there) that they are pretty much all going to be made in +mold configurations except kc pros.

Seriously doubt that all Rocs are now +molds. The Roc has become more domey over the past 5 years, causing the wing to dry differently, and giving that slightly slanted feeling. A lot of those people have never held a +mold Roc, and they feel nothing alike.

All that being said, the new Rocs "collapse" a bit after initial use. The top gets a little less domey, and the rim gets a little less slanted.

victorb wrote:Any one else finding these +mold dx rocs in stores? Many claims over at dgcr (I know, sources of greatly accurate info over there) that they are pretty much all going to be made in +mold configurations except kc pros.

Unfortunately, I don't know if I'd stick with the Roc if that happened. I really dislike the +mold configuration that much.

I just ordered 3 DX Rocs from DGC and they said all of the new DX Rocs are plus molds, but more specifically a semi-plus mold that is somewhat in between flat and plus. They told me (on the phone) that Innova told them it produced less waste because they got better results with the semi-plus rim. Without diving into a rant, I'm not sure I buy it. How do you go SO long making one mold and now all of a sudden it needs to be changed....hmmm...

I'll let yo know what I think. If I can't stand them, I'll start searching for good 12x KC's.

Yes, they are basically all slightly slanted now (and have been for probably the past 2 years or so...look like 50 or so pages back ITT) the good news is they don't fly like a + at all and the slant doesn't seem to bother my release...and I am a notorious hater of all slanted rims.

Fuck Rocs, just throw buzzzes. (that what I'm doing for now. Probably change soon) I just found myself never throwing a Roc that wasn't straight or floppy. The buzzz does this and I don't have to wait for a year or so to beat in a dx