Lunch Today: Loukaniko at Souvlaki GR

Porchetta this, bacon that—sure, these are good uses for pig. Admirable even. But they don't have my heart. Loukaniko does. This semi-dried sausage from Greece doesn't get a lot of love in the States, but it really should. It's typically flavored with orange peel and leeks, then crisped up and served whole. Like all Greek meats, it has a light citrus lilt to counterbalance the fat, and a complex flavor from seemingly simple spicing: it's bright, onion-y, and a little tangy. Eat it outside with a spritz of lemon and you'll feel like you're in Athens.

The loukaniko ($10) at Souvlaki GR is worthy champion of the loukaniko tradition. Pick your seasoning—orange or leek (we went with the former)—and get ready for a hulking plate of crisp, sliced sausage and plenty of fries. A side of tzatziki for dipping is a must. Take note that loukaniko is supposed to be a little dry and granular, but that just means it's more meaty than fatty. And a little cured meat funky in the best of ways.

As a native of Queens, New York, Max developed an early hunger for dosas, dumplings, and Korean barbecue. Now he explores the city's evolving international food world by day and night. When not slurping noodles over a rickety table, he's in the kitchen tinkering with his ice cream maker on a never-ending quest to develop the best ice cream-making techniques.

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