WORLD FARE: The passion of Doña Esthela

You never forget the first time—I certainly didn’t—and you always want it to be that way. It rarely is. So it was for me with the real Mexican food I’d been privileged enough to taste as a child. Those flavors, created by middle-aged women rolling out their own tortillas, became the flavors of my childhood. I certainly didn’t expect to taste them at La Cocina de Doña Esthela (Carretera El Tigre a Guadalupe, 22830 Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California), but there they were again.