Experiencing Cuba by train...

Cuba is a fantastic
country. Cubans are very friendly and hospitable people and Havana has to
be one of the most vibrant cities in the world. It's a safe place to
visit, too, unless of course you fall down one of the many potholes in the
street... Cuba's rail network runs the length of the island, linking the
main cities and towns, and it's an interesting way to get around, especially if
you want to travel with Cubans the way Cubans do, and not in a tourist bus.
Don't expect western standards on the trains, take your own toilet paper, and
allow for the odd breakdown - think of it as all part of the Cuba experience.
In particular, the Tren Francès from Havana to Santiago is a safe,
comfortable and (contrary to popular opinion) now reasonably reliable way to
make the trip from one end of Cuba to the other, much better than taking a
cramped long-distance Viazul bus or worse, a flight...

Sponsored links...

GMT-5 hours (GMT-4
hours first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).

Dialling code:

+53

Currency:

Foreigners
generally used to pay in US dollars, but in
2004 the Cuban government announced that US dollars
would no longer be accepted. Instead, dollars, pounds or euro can be converted into 'convertible
pesos' where 1 convertible peso is US$1. A 10% tax applies
to conversion of US dollars into convertible pesos (plus the
bank's fee), so assume in practice that $1=0.87 CUC. The
10% charge does not apply to
conversion of euro or pounds into pesos. Cuban
citizens use 'ordinary' pesos.

UK & most other western citizens
need a 'Tourist card' to visit Cuba. You can get a tourist card direct from
airlines & tour agencies serving Cuba, or via Cuban consulates, or from agencies
such as (for UK residents)
www.visacuba.com.

Here is the
timetable for
the main line linking Havana, Santa Clara, Camagüey & Santiago de Cuba, and
the branch lines to Sancti Spiritus, Holguin, Cienfuegos, Moron,
Bayamo & Guantanamo. Information on Cuban train services is
difficult to confirm, this information is cobbled together with help
from an August 2014 Havana departure board, a February 2015 Camaguey
departure poster plus previous known
timetables.
So treat it as a guide and
check exact times locally. The shortage of fuel in Cuba can
sometimes affect buses and local trains, but these mainline trains
have priority. Fares
for foreigners are also shown below.

Havana ► Santa Clara ► Camagüey ► Santiago de Cuba

Km

Train
number:

73

11

1*

3

15

13

7

9

See note
below for days of running:

C

E

A

B

C

C

D

C

0

Havana (Estación Central)
depart

07:15

18:13

18:27

16:00

18:53

19:25

21:21

-

Havana (La
Coubre)

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

90

Matanzas

|

|

|

17:47

22:10?

21:04

23:54

286

Santa Clara

|

|

00:06

22:00?

02:20?

02:22?

05:40

14:25

-

Cienfuegos

17:45

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

-

Sancti Spiritus

|

|

|

|

|

08:33

|

436

Ciego de Avila

|

|

00:40?

03:00?

04:00?

??:??

-

Moron**

|

|

|

|

|

|

538

Camagüey

04:07

03:39

01:58

04:50

05:24

21:26

-

Bayamo

|

|

|

|

10:17

|

729

Cacocúm

|

|

07:30?

10:17

??:??

-

Holguin

|

|

|

|

|

-

Guantanamo

|

|

|

12:38

|

854

Santiago de Cuba arrive

10:05

09:12

08:05

06:05

* = recommended train, see note A below, but currently cancelled, see update
below.

** = For Moron, travel to Ciego de Avila & change for the local line to
Moron. There are several daily trains Ciego to Moron & back.

? = Guesstimated time.
All trains, even overnight ones, only have
seats. There are no
couchettes or sleeping-cars in Cuba.

Note A: Train 1/2 Tren Francés (the French Train).
Since 2009 it's been running every third day, but you'll have to check
which days it runs locally, by asking at the information office or
looking for posters at the station in Havana. This is the
recommended
train to take, air-conditioned and contrary to what some guidebooks
say, reasonably reliable. It is a fast
service using comfortable air-conditioned stainless steel
coaches with reclining seats bought second-hand from France. It
offers two classes of seating, basic leatherette 'Primera' and quite
luxurious (albeit grubby) 'Primera Especial'. See the information &
photos below. This train is currently cancelled February until summer 2014 due
to overhaul see 'latest situation 2014' update below.

Note B: Train 3/4 normally runs every third day, on a day when the
Tren Francés isn't running.
So together trains 1/2 & 3/4 normally provide a
Havana-Santiago service on 2 out of every 3 days. However, train
3 & 4 has much
more basic passenger cars than the Tren Francés, with Primera class
seats only. This train is currently cancelled February until late 2014 due
to overhaul see 'latest situation 2014' update below.

Note C: Runs every third day. Primera class seats only.
Ask at the station to find which days it runs.

Note D: Runs every second day. Primera class seats only.
Ask at the station to find which days it runs.

Note E: Train 11/12 runs every third day while trains 1/2 & 3/4 are out of
service for overhaul, making this the only Havana-Santiago train
currently running. Primera class seats.

Can you help update this timetable?Feedback or photos
of the departure boards at Havana or any main station would be much appreciated!

Latest situation 2015...

Cuban train services have changed quite a lot over the last few years,
reflecting difficulties in keeping locomotives going and
finding fuel. However, the problems now seem to be easing,
helped by a fleet of brand-new Chinese locomotives. These timetables reflect the last concrete information
from August 2014, still valid in 2015. Origin and destination times are correct, Camaguey
& Matanzas times are correct, but other
intermediate times are guesstimated.

Latest update: In February 2014, trains 1, 2, 3 &
4 were cancelled 'until the summer' while the carriages were overhauled.
This cancellation got extended into late 2014, and as at January 2015 it's not
known if trains 1-4 are back in service or not. Probably not!
An alternative train, train 11 & 12, is running between Havana & Santiago every
3 days, departing Havana at 18:13 (arrival in Santiago next morning, time not
known), departing Santiago de Cuba at 23:45, arrival in Havana next day, time
not known.

If you have any more information that might help
other travellers,
please email me!

Santiago de Cuba ► Camagüey ► Santa Clara ► Havana

Train
number:

10

2*

16

4

12

14

8

74

See note
above for days of running:

C

A

C

B

E

C

D

D

Santiago de Cuba depart

07:20

20:17

23:15

23:45

Guantanamo

|

|

08:50

|

|

Holguin

|

|

|

|

|

Cacocúm

|

|

13:00?

02:45?

03:00?

Bayamo

|

|

|

|

|

22:11

Camagüey

15:52

02:07

16:55

06:15

06:00

03:46

Moron**

|

|

|

|

|

|

Ciego de Avila

|

|

19:16

08:16

08:30?

xx:xx

Sancti Spiritus

|

|

|

|

|

|

20:45

Cienfuegos

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

07:00

Santa Clara

22:43

06:38

21:30:

11:00?

11:15?

xx:xx

00:15?

|

Matanzas

|

01:00?

13:59

14:00?

xx:xx

05:26

|

Havana L
Coubre

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

Havana Estación Central
arrive

10:57

02:33

15:41

15:32

13:50

07:55

17:30

Havana ► Pinar del Rio

Pinar del Rio ► Havana

(Train number:)

71

(Train number:)

72

(Notes)

G

(Notes)

G

Havana

06:10

Pinar del Rio

09:00

Pinar del Rio

13:25

Havana

14:55

Note G: Runs every
second day, ask at station to find which days it runs.

Foreigners pay higher fares than
Cubans. Foreigners used to have to pay in US dollars, but since November 2004 US dollars
are no longer accepted in Cuba and foreigners pay train fares in
'convertible
pesos'. 1 convertible peso = around US$1.20

An electric railcar runs on a
railway originally built by the Hershey Corporation (the chocolate company) from
Havana's Casablanca station, across the harbour from Havana itself, to Hershey
and Matanzas. The timetable changes every so often, so always double-check
train times locally, although these are February 2015 times.
See the Hershey Railways photos below...

To reach Havana Casablanca station, take the frequent ferry across the harbour from
the foot of Santa Clara Street in Havana old town. The ferry runs every 20
minutes, only costs a peso or so, and gives great views of the bay - although it
can be interrupted in bad weather. There's an airport-style
security check for the ferry, implemented after a ferry was hijacked and sailed
to Miami in 2003, and items such as razor blades are not allowed, so be prepared
and allow plenty of time. Once on the other side, Casablanca station is
immediately west of the ferry dock, looking more like a tram stop than a
conventional station, but just follow the overhead electric wires along the
street. Buy tickets on the train.

In Matanzas, the Hershey
railway station is about 2km from Matanzas mainline station. Buy tickets
on the train.

Fast trains
1 & 2 between Havana and Santiago use comfortable
stainless-steel air-conditioned coaches bought second-hand from
French Railways and known as the 'Tren Francés'. These
classic coaches were originally used on the glamorous Trans-Europe Express (TEE) service between Paris,
Brussels and Amsterdam before being replaced with high-speed
Thalys
trains.
They were shipped to Cuba in 2001.

There are no sleeping-cars or couchettes, just seats in two classes - primera
(first class) and primera especial (special first class). Primera is
the old European 2nd class, with vinyl padded seats 2-abreast on each side
of the aisle. Primera
especial is the old European first class, with much more space and
seats arranged 2-abreast on one side of the aisle, one-abreast
on the other side, as shown in the photo below.

The train is getting worn and grubby, but the seats are
comfortable (even if they don't recline), there is powerful air-conditioning, a café, and even
piped music. A hostess looks after each coach. Make sure you bring your
own toilet paper! This train is normally reasonably reliable, with
up to three locomotives hauling it - in fact, if the Tren Francés
runs more than an hour late, Ferrocarriles de Cuba will refund your
fare.

To quote one traveller, "The journey from Havana to Santa Clara
was very comfortable and there were only 7 foreigners on a train full
of friendly Cubans - a marked contrast to the rather grumpy 'tourist
only' bus network."

The TrenFrancés
from Santiago to Havana,
boarding at Santiago.Photos courtesy Chuck Anderson.

These once-glamorous stainless-steel cars
used to run on crack TEE trains between Paris,
Brussels & Amsterdam!

Some services (if, as & where shown in the timetable above) are provided by railcars, either ex-Spanish Railways or stainless steel Budd
railcars bought second-hand from
VIA Rail Canada (shown below). The latter are
comfortable, carpeted, air-conditioned single-coach railcars with reclining seats,
hostess service and refreshments.

Other express trains

Other
trains, such as trains 3 & 4 between Havana and Santiago
overnight, consist of older cars, in many cases bought second-hand
from Germany, Mexico or Japan. In spite of travelling
overnight, there are no sleeping-cars or sleeping accommodation of any
kind - the trains just have reclining leatherette
seats. These trains are an experience - don't expect them to be
the cleanest or best maintained trains you will see!

Buying
train tickets...

You can book train tickets up to
5 days in advance, only from the station you are leaving from. You'll need
your passport.

Buying tickets in Havana

Foreign
visitors
cannot buy train tickets at the Estacion
Central, but should walk on round the corner to the Le Coubre station
on the Avenida del Peurto. From the Estacion Central, continue
down Egido Street along the Old Wall towards the harbour and then
turn right, and it's about 100m away.

At other stations, you can book at the normal ticket
office. It's best to book a day or two in advance if you can.

Children aged 0 to 4
travel free, children aged 5 to 11 travel at half fare, children aged
12 and over pay full fare.

Traveller Murray
reports from 2011: "At Le Coubre station, The waiting room
is open with 4 smaller rooms along the left hand wall. A man
seated at the desk just inside the door will ask you which train you
would like to catch. I was asked to go into the room at the
end of the row in the far left hand corner. The ticketing
person asked for my passport and then I took a seat for about 5 mins
before I was called back into the room to pay and retrieve my
passport. The ticket is a flimsy piece of paper so take care
of it because this is what you hand over to the person at the window
when you check in, the person at the gate entrance to the platform
and to the staff member at the door of your carriage."

Traveller Emil reports: "You cannot buy a ticket from the Estacion Central, you have to go to a
building around the corner, closer to the port [The LADIS office]. There are seats and you have to wait to be called. I
think we were called quite quickly though, being foreigners. There are undesirables at the
station that will offer to help confused tourists, so don't believe everything
you're told.
Foreigners have to pay in convertible pesos, abbreviated CUC. The
locals pay the same amount, but in national pesos so actually they
pay a lot less. We did this the day before - I am not sure if you can
do this on the same day as you travel. When you go to the station to catch your train, you first need to go
to a window in the middle of the station where you confirm your
ticket. You need to hand them your tickets together with your
passports and they will fill in some paperwork. You must do this
before getting on the train! There are no signs or anything saying
that you have to do this."

Picture above right: The driver of a
Havana to Santiago train smoking a Havana cigar...

Pictured above far right: The
new passenger rail station at Santiago de Cuba. The old
one is now derelict.

Buying tickets in Santiago de
Cuba...

Traveller Chuck Anderson reports
(2014): "You can get tickets up to 5 days in advance for the 860km journey
from Santiago de Cuba to Havana. It’s probably a good idea, as our carriage on
the ‘Special train’ [Tren Frances] was quite full. The station is a large modern
barn down by the port, but you can’t buy a ticket there. The ticket office is
about a hundred metres west. No, not the first building, that’s a refreshment
stand. It’s that white structure further on that looks like a temporary shed.
You can get information at the window, but to buy your ticket you have to enter
an unmarked door around the side. Here, as in any procedure to do with
transportation or communications in Cuba, you will find a waiting room with a
patient queue of customers. But, because we were obvious foreigners who would
pay in hard currency, within a few minutes they opened a special window for us.
The process still took some time, as it involved a lot of writing and stamping
by hand. You will also need your passport and 62 CUCs for a first-class ticket.
You are instructed to be at the station an hour before departure. Good advice,
because you still can’t get on the train until you get your ticket stamped There
was a lengthy queue at the window, so we went round the back and the woman in
the window ticked our names on her list and stamped our tickets.

Take
a good guidebook to
get the most from a trip to Cuba. For independent travellers I'd
recommend either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, both guidebooks provide
an excellent
level of practical information and historical and cultural background. Lonely
Planet Cuba - Rough
Guide to Cuba

Click
the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk

◄◄
Hotel search & price comparison.

www.hotelscombined.com
checks all the main hotel booking sites at once to find the widest choice of
hotels & the cheapest seller. It was named as the World's Leading Hotel
Comparison Site at the World Travel Awards 2013 and I highly recommend it, both
to find hotels in even the smallest places and to check that another retailer
isn't selling your hotel for less!

www.booking.com
is my favourite booking site. It's really clear and you can usually book with free
cancellation and so confirm your accommodation at no risk months before train
booking opens.

Personal
hotel recommendations in Havana...

There's no
shortage of historic hotels in Havana, many with movie star or
Hemingway connections.
The oldest hotel in Havana is the
venerable
Hotel Inglaterra, very central near the Capitolio and walking distance
from Old Havana.
The most luxurious hotel, even today, is the
Hotel Nacional de Cuba, once the haunt of Sinatra and Ava Gardner,
although it's quite a hike from the Capitolio in central Havana, and
further still from Old Havana. The
Hotel Sevilla is also a good
choice, not far from the Inglaterra and once Al Capone's favourite.
Finally, there's the comfortable
Hotel Ambos Mundos, located right within
Old Havana, where Hemingway's room can still be seen, complete with
typewriter, an excellent choice.

Overland travel by train & bus around
Cuba is an essential part of the
experience, so once there, don't cheat
and fly, stay on the ground! But a
long-haul flight might be unavoidable to
reach Cuba in the first place. For
flights to Havana, compare airlines at Skyscanner.com.

Travel
insurance & health card...

Take out decent travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable
insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover
cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible
limit.
An annual
multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip
policies even for just 2 or 3 trips
a year, I have an annual policy myself. Here are some suggested insurers.
Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these
links.

Carry a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency
exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.
If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're
not left stranded if
your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself. In addition,
some credit cards are significantly better for
overseas travel than others. Martin Lewis's
www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money
explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency
exchange commission loadings when you buy something
overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use
an ATM abroad. Taking this advice can save you quite a
lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street
bank credit card!

You can avoid ATM charges and expensive exchange rates with a
Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or their
multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, see
www.caxtonfx.com for info.

Get an international SIM card
to save on mobile data and phone calls...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're
not careful you can return home to find a huge bill.
Consider
buying a global pre-paid SIM card for your mobile phone from
www.Go-Sim.com, which can slash costs by up to 85%. Go-Sim
cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide,
and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries. It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills
when you get home. It also allows cheap data access for laptops
& PDAs. A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't
expire if it's not used between trips, unlike some
others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone
number' for life.