Chef and wine examiner Linda Vijeh gives her picks of some bottles of bubbly to help chase away the winter blues.

We all deserve to celebrate the beginning of a new year with something special.

For me, there is certainly no match for the delights of a great bottle of bubbly; I find it can turn any occasion into something special, the perfect antidote to the winter blues, as I scrape the frost off the windscreen and pray the car will start.

Whilst there are many perfectly acceptable sparkling wines readily available, there can be few drinks, of any kind, that match champagne for elegance, class and sophistication.

Often I encounter people who state emphatically “I can’t stand champagne”; I would argue that in many cases this is because they have been exposed to cheap imitations, or lesser known brands, often served at big gatherings, and seriously lacking in quality.

Whilst the most desirable “grand marques” champagnes will set you back well over £100, for little more than the price of a modest bottle of restaurant wine you can afford to splash out and enjoy a bit of festive fizz with your nearest and dearest at home. I would expect to pay a minimum of around £30 a bottle for something decent; the equivalent of just £5 a glass. By now you may be getting the gist, I can pretty much come up with any excuse to indulge in my favourite wine.

To earn the title ‘champagne’ the wine must adhere to strict criteria, such as secondary fermentation in the bottle, and the area in which the three permitted grape varieties, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, are grown.

To brighten up the start of the year, and encourage you to try something a little different that could enhance a black and white dress code for a posh party, splurge on either a ‘blanc de blancs’ or ‘blanc de noirs’ champagne.

The first of these translates as ‘white from white’, meaning white wine made from white grapes, in this case, Chardonnay, as it is the only white grape allowed in the making of true champagne. ‘Blanc de noirs’ refers, by contrast, to white wine made from black grapes, either Pinot Noir, or more often, a blend of this and Pinot Meunier.

Most supermarkets offer their own house versions at under £20 a bottle. If the mood takes you, invite a crowd round for a comparative tasting. Fish and seafood go well with these, so give your bloated tummy some respite after the turkey and mince pies.

All of these champagnes are dry, with fine bubbles, and a lovely yeasty, biscuity, toasty aroma..... snuggled up in a cosy, fluffy, dressing gown, by a log fire, late at night, with hot buttered toast. Yum.

‘Blanc de Noirs’ recommendations

Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Français, £200+ a bottle. The yardstick by which all ‘blanc de noirs’ champagnes are judged. We should all aspire to something, surely?

Grand Cru Mailly, £35. Moving down the price scale a notch. 100% Pinot Noir. Grapes for this cooperative are sourced from its grand cru vineyard. Considered one of the best for the price, you’d find it hard to go wrong here.

Pommery NV Wintertime, £34. Big, bold, yet fresh on the palate.

‘Blanc de Blancs’ recommendations.

Gosset Grand Blanc de Blancs, £65. The oldest wine house in Champagne, look out for their new blend, made from Grand Cru Chardonnay grapes of three different vintages.