Issue number 30. A need for beauty? For the world, a magnificent ambition. For women, it all depends on the obsession. At times desired, at times criticised, beauty still gets column inches and gives rise to passionate outbursts. Pictorial proof? Not only… Next issue out on December 11th.

SUSPENDED GESTURES

There has already been a lot of talk about this. Not surprising as the idea is so simple and so beautiful that you feel like shouting from the rooftops: the “suspended” or “pending” coffee, that has appeared in bakeries as a baguette or sandwich.A little reminder of the facts: it all began in Naples with the "caffè sospeso". Clients pay for two coffees: one for themselves and one for a stranger in need who may happen along later in the day. Today, this surge of solidarity is spreading, aimed not only at the homeless but also at students, the unemployed, families in trouble… A further development has been mooted with a shift into the cultural realm: “book swaps” are already underway and the adaptation of the concept is laudable.

Without taking things too far, we should nevertheless start to “pay things forward”. We could tell our local grocer to put aside a packet of biscuits during our next shop. We could tell the fruit & veg man to “give me a kilo of golden delicious and leave one apple pending, please”. Indeed, this way of giving and receiving is quite exceptional. There is a certain sense of sharing in the anonymity. The generosity is tinted with spontaneity. I know that I am giving: little nothings that feel good. I want to share my coffee, my sandwich. And even if the going to our local shops and asking for a “pending” is not an easy thing, crossing the doorstep may be a chance for conviviality and socialising.

Of course, the critics are legion, calling the businesses involved opportunistic (cheap advertising), or declaring the initiative completely incompatible with the French mentality. Well, the naysayers can keep their opinions to themselves, if you see the bad in everything, then the bad stays around. We could even tell them to keep their opinions… pending.

LA PROBLÉMATIQUE EST CONFUSANTE

“WTF! She’s freakin’ because she was called a Cougar? Ridonkulous… She should google Demi Moore, lol”! While this sentence may mean little to some, to others it is crystal clear.

Just like so many other areas, words have trends. And trends often begin with the young. While it can be exasperating at times, the fresh breeze can be fun and relevant. It is just the normal evolution of things and language.On the other hand, this tendency to mistake one word for another or the invention of words for no reason, as if the only objective is to render the simplest of expressions clinical.

Top of the list in French is the word “confusant” which supposedly means “that which causes confusion”. It has yet to appear in a dictionary and is a direct translation from the English “confusing” straight out of the marketing departments to describe a message that might cause a consumer to have doubts. It is technical. But the problem is the term “confusant” is being used all over the shop. Our more direct, more noble term “confus” has been forgotten. As have the alternatives such as “troublant” or “perturbant” which could be used as synonyms while adding a degree of feeling.

In the same way, the use of the term “problématique” instead of simply “problème”. The former evokes all of the questions around a subject, the latter means simply a “problem”, nothing more. There is no point in using the more scientific former term in the hopes that it will minimise the harsh reality of the latter. You would never ask someone who is looking at you sideways: “Il y a une problématique?” Another shocking example in French is the use of the word: “émotionnel”. Everything seems to be “émotionnelles” at the moment! From movies, to current affairs, to psychological analysis… While the term may be appropriate in the third case, it is not the case for the first. An emotional film… What exactly is that? A film that sparks emotions? Would it not be fairer and more apt to say “a moving film”? Doesn’t the phrase evoke more feeling?

Let’s stop making things less profound and personal by using words that are serious and objective. It doesn’t make us any more intelligent. Just a bigger pain in the ass.

BEAUTY SPOT

At Georges, a restaurant in Paris, the waiters have been accused of seating better-looking clients at the more visible tables and relegating the others to the dark recesses of the room. This has led to an outpouring of opinion on beauty as a criteria. Can it be one openly? The “blind” sessions for the next season of “The Voice” currently taping with the jurors turning their backs to the contestants so as to avoid being influenced by their appearance is one way of dealing with the issue, at a time when this aesthetic-based injustice is getting worse.

Being good-looking opens many doors today. Not only in restaurants but in companies, the media. “Having a nice appearance is worth years of studying” according to the sociologist Jean-François Amedieu.What about the less pleasant to look at? Are they ignored?

We wonder how, in this context, people like Serge Gainsbourg, Eddy Mitchell or Djamel Debbouze ever managed to impose their charisma, talent, intelligence and humour.This trend, according to the same sociologist, is linked to the fact that the image has taken over everywhere. But resistance is building to this shocking trend. In the same way as racial segregation, this type of segregation is not inevitable.

You can be “the man or the woman for the job”, but do you have to have “the face for the job?”

WONDERFUL CLAPTON

«Wonderful tonight». The first word of Eric Clapton’s classic tune says it all.

It is late, a woman is getting ready for a party as her man looks on enchanted. She asks him if he thinks she is beautiful. He says she is. But he thinks that the most beautiful thing is the way she looks at him not knowing that he loves her even more. How lucky he is to be with her. That all the other guests will have their eyes on her. He tells her how amazing she is before he switches off the light. And mixed in with this there is talk of headaches and car keys. And that is what makes this so special. The lyrics are short and breathtakingly simple, but nevertheless touching. Nothing soppy, in a few lines he lists their moments of happiness, a love without fuss.

Eric Clapton seems to live every line. And this is not surprising as he wrote the song on September 7th 1976 for Pattie Boyd, who was to become his wife, as they were getting ready to go to a party at the McCartney’s. This is not a question of luck: When things comes from the heart, they hit you full blast. The melody is an extension. What do you expect from Eric Clapton? The genius composer-singer-guitarist who can make the purity of each sound ring out making each one extraordinarily powerful.

But something even more «Wonderful» is this unique live version. The three-minute song becomes a nine-minute letting-go… The rhythm is slightly slower… The crystalline notes repeating the melody until tears come. And then, when it all seems to be over, it begins all over again. Clapton remains quiet and lets his backing singer take us elsewhere. He stays quiet, as if to gift us the song. To let us appropriate it. As if Clapton wanted to give us this feeling of being happy together. Wonderful.

LITTLE DOLLS

Barbie. All the little girls dream about her and long to be like her. While this image of the female form is consistently controversial, it still continues to inspire a beauty cliché. And what if those little girls really started to look like her? Alain Delorme put it into practice with parental control.

LET’S TALK TURKEY

A little early for Christmas lunch talk? Not in the slightest, it is time to talk about the turkey that is soon to adorn our decorated tables. Let’s give the bird its due! The Americans get the end-of-year festivities off to a start with Thanksgiving, which is unthinkable without a roast turkey.

All the more so as this form of poultry comes from the United States, first encountered by the explorers who thought they had landed in India, which gives the bird its name in French “poule d’Inde”, of which the term “dinde” is all that remains – while in English the term “turkey hen” refers incorrectly to a type of guinea-fowl but it stuck! Pretty confusing! In France, the world’s second-largest producer of turkey, this big, exotic bird has long replaced the goose at Christmas.

Thanksgiving is a national holiday for giving thanks that has been in practice since the 17th century when the first immigrants (including the founding fathers) arrived in North America from England aboard the Mayflower. A way of thanking the heavens, God, the natives, etc., for letting them move and prosper in this country – notably feeding themselves with poultry they raised thanks to the good harvests. The actual holiday of Thanksgiving was proclaimed by George Washington in 1789, and institutionalised later on by Abraham Lincoln, on the fourth Thursday in November in the U.S. (but the second Thursday in October in Canada, where the pilgrims landed). It is a public holiday so businesses and government offices are closed.

It has become a ritual respected by all and gives rise to family and friend reunions around a table laden down with turkey, accompanied by cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. It is said that the pumpkin helped the pilgrims get through their first, harsh winter. It must be said that firm and tasty turkey is delicious with various types of stuffing: chestnut, mushroom, bay-leaves… So, are stupid women referred to as “petite dinde” (little turkeys) in reference to their empty interiors? While men remain cock of the walk!

AN ADDITION FOR CANAL + ?

Those of you who hadn’t already seen it have gotten the chance to watch 2012’s Palme d’Or winner on Canal+. «Amour», Michael Haneke’s masterpiece.And it brought our thoughts back to the closing ceremony where the film was crowned. Of the emotional unanimity from which we felt excluded, even more than usual.Then we thought that all of the programmes and shows broadcast on Canal+ from Cannes, all of that noisy buzz stops at the top of the steps, at the door to the “grande salle du Palais”, where the competing films are shown. Where the real Cannes happens. We felt frustrated because we, as viewers, are not part of the profession.

Except, when screens and machines now enable us to access everything, or almost everything, has the time not come to get rid of the “almost” by creating a channel at Canal + that opens only for the festival. It would show every official screening, for a fee of course. This doesn’t necessarily mean that this channel would damage box-office figures later on. Big matches, concerts, operas are often aired live on TV without emptying the stadiums or amphitheatres in the summer.It would let us make up our own minds instead of being snowed under with comments and criticism every ten days.

Imagine… Every night, on your couch, a new feature film, about which you know nothing.Imagine… Becoming a jury member in the comfort of your own home…

Let It Be Men - 54€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

THE LET IT BE SELECTIONFOR L’ACHARNŒUR

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from leather and white magnetic metal, it is both male and chic, elegant and rock and roll. Perfect alliance between sobriety and confirmed style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur.

Let It Be - 63€

Created by two jewellery fans (including the ex-founder of Mercerie Moderne), Let It Be is a Parisian brand that is still quite low key. The charm lies in a collection of cheeky, sometimes ecumenical pieces but are not worn just as symbols. On the contrary: Let It Be is aimed at the liberated men or women who have decided to be themselves, instead of defining herself relative to others… Who wear Let It Be lay claim to nothing, except beauty!

THE LET IT BE SELECTIONFOR L’ACHARNŒUR

This bracelet is a key piece in the collection. It is made from soft leather and white metal, it is both chic and gothic, ultra-precious and rock and roll. The clasp dresses the wrist with a refinement and originality that attracts all women, regardless of their age or style. A stand-out piece sold exclusively on l’Acharnœur and also available without the skull.

190€ au lieu de 298€

UNI&VINTAGE

Behind Uni&Vintage is the eye and imagination of one Christine Ekodo-Delaunay. So, what is her USP? She cuts up vintage clothes, scarves and fabrics, puts them together if needed with a specially dyed satin to help the fabrics blend and makes an entirely new piece. Skirts, shirts, trousers, tunics: the Uni&Vintage line proposes exclusive cuts that fall differently according to colours and prints. As a result, each design is unique and numbered as part of a broader collection.

A UNI&VINTAGE DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

A vintage Lanvin headscarf, satin dyed in verdigris, a « kimono » cut, together form the skirt specially made for l’Acharnœur. The multitude of colours blend delicately as the bands superimpose with modernity. The inner belt is adaptable so the skirt falls perfectly on everyone regardless of size. The outer belt dresses the entire waist for an ultra-refined effect. This piece is number 1045 of the Uni&Vintage brand.

Cyrto

Cyrto is extremely shy and prefers the shadows to the light. She is an illustrator and graphic artist and is spending more and more time on her true calling: creating fantastic worlds from her own emotion, impulse and imagination. She invents but does not reinvent. She follows no trend or influence but instead takes all her inspiration from her inner self. Her uniquely artistic approach will soon be visible through her writing and directing.

CYRTO GLOVES

The whole idea comes from the glove as second skin. Cyrto creates indelible designs on gloves evoking ramifications, sketches… connections. Each piece is unique and comes only from her imagination. There are no rules, no hierarchy, the cells form every instant and grow together through paths and encounters. Her lines tell of a fantastic world that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Between tattoo art and a pseudo-botanic vision, the lines of the hand take on a new meaning.

Gloves made to order.

The approach is entirely artistic. The final piece is handed over in exchange for an envelope in which the client « gives » the amount they wish.

The Acharnœur will act as intermediary but takes no commission. For more information: avenue@acharnoeur.com

120€ au lieu de 180€

LORD SM

Lord SM was set up in 2009, and making luxury from vintage is something they know. It all began with the designer reworking morning suits to make them more « Rock Couture ». Slowly but surely she let her inspiration develop with scarves, bags, leather jackets, tunics, dresses… The terms « Union Jack » or « Mini Jack » are used for the scarves only she knows the secret to. Her « Ring of Fire » scarves are the stuff dreams are made of and we have a total crush on her fringed bags. Her pieces already have a cult following and her Spring/Summer 2013 collection was presented at Tranoï. The world is Lord SM’s oyster.

L’ACHARNŒUR CHOOSES

A Mini-Jack in vintage fabric and noble materials. Silk, cotton voile, silk velvet and leather all blended in a unique patchwork. The cut is the result of hours of work, stitching and imagination, which makes it adaptable to all shapes. The model is unisex and universal. 100% made in Paris, 100% Lord SM. New pieces available in the same shades.

Gabriella de Galzain - 125€

She used to work under the name «Frénétik». Today Gabriella de Galzain is coming out of hiding and is launching her eponymous brand. She makes baroque, romantic, rock n’ roll jewellery that expresses a bohemian spirit of elegance and freedom, paying homage to the most beautiful icons. Her undeniable talent can be seen in brooches, necklaces, earrings, cuff-links… She counts many stars among her greatest fans and some of her pieces tell the most beautiful stories.

A GABRIELLA DE GALZAIN DESIGN ONLY FOR L’ACHARNŒUR

We requested an homage to the Eiffel Tower. Only for l'Acharnœur, Gabriella de Galzain came up with this timeless yet contemporary brooch. The blend of off-whites means it can be worn at all times. Pearls, chains, crystals, ceramic flowers… The codes of elegance and femininity with an essential touch of impertinence. All the audacity of the “Grand Dame” herself.

At «les Cakes de Bertrand», you can buy bags, purses, trays, jewellery, perfume, stationery, clothes, books… Generous and elegant accessories that immerse you in the brand’s own retro-glamour style. Twice a year, almost iconic visuals based on women and the Eiffel tower are revealed in the irresistible collections. Most of the objects are made in his Paris workshop. Les Cakes de Bertrand, is also an «L’école française», a curiosity shop of trinkets. A piece of advice: take the time to wander through the boutiques or on the website to find limited editions or one-off pieces priced from 3€ to 320€… Feel like a beautiful gift?

MY TAILLE IS RICH!

When you are ugly, the teasing can get ugly! When you are small, well the reaction of others is… small-minded! Whether or not it is deliberate, some attitudes remind you how many centimetres you are missing…

We’ll just do a quick rundown of the classics: the packed metro where a woman turns her head and sends her hair flying into your eyes; trying on clothes when they are so long the word “Lilliputian” springs to mind…What about the newer events? The simple ‘bise’, so Parisian, when you need to greet someone who smiles at you but doesn’t budge. So you have to get on tip-toe like a kid. The only other is to reach up and shake their hand!

While the solution is possible in this case, another more annoying trends is becoming common. Supermarket shelving policy that puts products that don’t sell that well at eye level in order to tempt the clients when the products that you really need are on the high shelves. Horrible… the regular sugar is inaccessible while the icing sugar is within reach. You can try to climb but having already tested the fragile base of the shelf, it is a better idea to ask for help from a taller client trying your best to phrase it so they don’t think you are flirting. Whew!

The very sugar you need to make a cake for your friend’s house-warming party. Her designer furniture is just incredible! You sit down to dinner and then… you find your chin hitting the table. Physically and morally. Have you noticed how the seats of chairs are lower and lower? Most likely to make things easier for people who are getting bigger. You wonder if you can drink someone under the table, but you’re already under the table…

Having said that, you have learned to take this with a sense of humour, telling yourself that life is full of surprises. Above all, you also know how to count your blessings. Don’t we say “good things come in small packages?”

MONSTERS IN PUBLIC!

When I went into CM1 my parents, seeing as I had become “a big girl”, decided to give me my own room. No more sharing with my little brother ! I was so proud. I had two old beach changing cabins where I could put my clothes. The problem was, when night fell, I wasn’t such a big girl after all! Like all kids, I thought there were monsters in the closet. Creatures that weren’t necessarily there to hurt me but whose favourite pastime was to make my blood run cold when my parent’s had their back turned.

I was sure that they would come out the second I switched off the light. And every noise I heard in the house as associated with one of them. For example, there was one for the noises of footsteps in the stairs, another for the creaking bathroom door…But I was determined never to give in! To get a peaceful night’s sleep, I elaborated an infallible plan. My theory was that they enjoyed scaring children because they were bored, so all I had to do was… keep them occupied!

And what better than offering them a nice dinner? Every night, I would use my little oven and cook them dinner, a fictitious dinner of course, but I made an effort: coconut chicken sauce, beef bourguignon… not to mention dessert! Anything that could make them sleep was welcome. Then I would stand in front of the two doors I would recite the evening’s menu. It worked! They were captivated by my menu and hungry for their meal, and so they forgot to scare me and I, sensing that I had their attention, I discovered the pleasure of making up stories, telling them, bringing them to life…

Since then, the little game has become my job: I am an actress and just recently got into directing… And while I’m no longer scared of monsters, I still suffer from stage fright!