The bottom surface of a part printed with a raft turns out pretty clean, no? This is the exact same principle.
It is useful when nesting parts, printing interlocking parts, or generating your own support material in CAD prior to Cura.

When trying to print nested parts in the same STL, Cura doesn't maintain top/bottom thickness rules when things are stacked on top of each other but not quite touching.
Here is an STL that shows exactly what I mean in a somewhat complex use case, but the basic principle is simple:
Imagine I'm trying to print a cube with 2mm walls + top + bottom, and 20% infill. I dial my settings in to Cura, and I get that result.
Now, instead, imagine my STL was actually two cubes, stacked on top of each other, but offset by 0.3mm or so... so that they could print in the same file, and pop apart like a part comes off a raft. I could in theory, print a huge stack of cubes in one print like this. It would be great.
What Cura does in this case, though, is not what you want: Cura treats the near-touching tops and bottoms of the cubes as a contiguous volume, despite the 0.3mm offset, and doesn't print a proper top or bottom on either cube. The tops and bottoms of these cubes are an open mess of infill and not the desired & clean 2mm
In the linked file, you can see this in the central part in which the small part is a functional part but also acting like support material for the larger part.
I'm not sure if the Cura Uranium fixes this, as the layer view isn't showing infill paths and old Cura can't seem to preview new Cura's gcode files.
If anyone has a fix for this I would be interested to hear it.

Yes, that works. You don't want to go so thin that it has an uneven surface (aluminum foil doesn't work so well here) but thin generally works better because it builds up more eddy currents for the sensor to detect.
Chromium content boosts read range.

It seems to be a monthly ritual that I bitch about Youmagine here.
Why isn't there a how-to guide for formatting descriptions and BOMs on the site? How do I turn copy into clickable links? Why does pasting a link cause the next word after the link to also become part of that link? Why can't I have links in the BOM???? Or at least why aren't they clickable?
Why do dashes turn in to lists in the BOM, but not in the item description???
Why did part of my item description become double-spaced???
See all of this here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/urban-puukko-v2-0
And, semi-related to core funcitonality.... Why haven't you tightened up the design & layout of your item pages? The Tags, License, Social Media, Created, and Sharing areas all look like someone dumped a garbage can of generic icons and text on the floor. It's all wasted space and visual chaos.

Really. When is your team going to treat this as a big opportunity and make Youmagine not suck?
There are so many well-documented problems... I don't know that I've been able to use the site a single time in the past few months without hitting a 404 error.
Can we start an indegogo or a gofundme so that you can hire another developer?
There are so many ways to monetize this platform! You're basically the #2 player in the space and you are doing nothing to innovate... it is painful to watch. Allow people to buy my 3D prints (like a storefront for 3D hubs)! Allow people to remix/fork/collaborate! Allow people to offer design services! Do anything at all!
Love,
All of your hopeful and frustrated users.

Ran through a sample pack of Purple, Orange, and Clear last week and everything printed very nicely. Similar settings to what you described. Maybe the transparent green just has poor printing properties?

I saw the founder at a manufacturing conference a year or so ago. They have a strong pedigree, and a lot of enthusiasm. At the time, it was pretty clear that they didn't really even know what their true product direction was, and they definitely hadn't built anything.
Hope they make something awesome though. Use SW daily and share your feeling. Fusion 360 is an interesting thing to check out. It already has at lot of cloud/collaborative/distributed features on top of a SW-familiar interface.

All of the current Pi-based printer controllers (Octoprint, PrintToPeer, BotQueue) offer 'cloud' slicing of STLs on the Pi, using Cura in fact.
Edited to add: Though I've used each of them for several months at a time, and still use Octoprint for several machines... cloud based slicing isn't really ready for prime-time at this point. Not because it doesn't work - it does - but being able to preview the layer view in Cura is too critical to achieving a high success rate when printing for cloud slicing to offer any net benefit. Maybe it will be worthwhile as slicers get slightly better and machine limitations get slightly relaxed.

Yeah, in general, it looks like you are having some sort of extrusion related problem. Even your walls without overhangs are very uneven. Maybe there is a clog developing in your nozzle? Or maybe your extruder isn't set correctly. Or maybe something is up with your Z stage.
I would try to solve that first before fixing your overhang problem, if it even still exists when extrusion is straightened out. Improving overhangs is simple - if everything else is working fine, just add more cooling to your printer, in the form of a crossflow fan or even a desk fan.
Sorting out the extrusion problem will require more troubleshooting, but problems with extrusion will prevent you from addressing anything else about the printer until they are solved first.

I've been using my UM1 with 1.75mm filament for a few months now. It is generally an upgrade, both in terms of filament availability and oozing reduction.
There are a lot of ways to make this change though - I've gone through several iterations, all of them functional. His method looks solid, but if it's tripping you up, (and it seems like a bit of a project) you can also just purchase a pre-made 1.75mm filament extruder. I've used both of the Printrbot 1.75mm extruders (all metal and the beta geared version) and both work well.
Maybe if you contact him directly he'll put up something on Youmagine though.

I have printed with it before (not Gizmodorks brand).
You need to print with very very low fan, and keep the walls on your part very thin. It holds heat/stays molten for quite a while, so thick walls warp and sag like crazy.
Likely a heated bed + heated chamber is needed for easy results. I printed a few things which were very functional, but the amount of effort needed puts it beyond my normal printing needs...

I don't think POM is a great choice for a frame material (cost vs. stiffness isn't so ideal) but it does laser cut very well... it's probably the best thing to cut after acrylic. The part accuracy is great and the strength/slipperiness/toughness is fantastic. With our 90W laser we can get through 1/4", but that's probably around the limit. One thing to watch out for though - it has a clear flame! Burnt myself picking up some small pieces that I couldn't tell were on fire from the laser.

Thanks!!!
I don't know when you added this feature (been on 14.12RC9 for a while) but I love that it now pulls over the machine data from the previous installs! That was the main reason I wasn't keeping up with the beta releases, because I was tired of recreating several machines every time I moved to a new version.
...Now you just need to default to enabling retractions on long comb moves and everything will be perfect.... eh? eh????