Plan Check offers simple, but inspired dishes

I didn’t know where Little Osaka was. I didn’t even know L.A. had a Little Osaka. It turns out that the neighborhood is a five-minute bicycle ride from my front door. Here’s a hint, it’s in the area you may know as the Sawtelle District or Ramen Row, perhaps. And here’s the reason you’ll want to find Little Osaka on your map: Plan Check Kitchen + Bar.

Plan Check is another modern American, small plates restaurant. Let me rephrase that – Plan Check is not just another modern American, small plates restaurant. Since opening its doors in early 2012, the restaurant has received acclaim for Chef Ernesto Uchimura’s simple but inspired dishes like chicken, burgers and pastrami.

Why you should go:

The space, on the corner of Sawtelle and Nebraska, is very well-conceived, featuring garage-like glass-and-wood doors that separate dining areas. A long communal table occupies the center of the main dining room, and is flanked by elevated tables on one side and the bar on the other. Meanwhile, the open kitchen helps create a lively energy.

General manager Christopher Brian is quick to point out that, as beautiful as it is to look at, the layout clearly wasn’t designed by someone with a restaurant background. He says the building went through a major renovation when it was converted into the gorgeous space that it now is.

The menu is wonderfully sparse, showcasing the chef’s masterful skill at bringing new life to traditional items. And while the staff appear to be having fun, they’re simultaneously capable of talking in-depth about everything on that menu.

What to order:

Starters include oysters on the half shell, as well as pickled items, cheese plates, charcuterie, baked crab dip and stuffed mushrooms.

The Plan Check Burger, aka, the PCB, is one of the best in town, featuring Americanized Dashi cheese, ketchup leather (made by dehydrating ketchup, and cutting it into strips), Schmaltz onions and mixed pickles. It’s served on a crisp bun.

And go for some fries on the side. If you’re lucky enough to arrive when the pastrami fries with gravy is on the menu, treat yourself right and enjoy. The dish is a little like a cross between Poutine and a Reuben. Yum.

For drinkers:

The bar, like the menu, is small but impressive, featuring some fantastic liquors. The highlight is an extensive Japanese whisky display. There are at least a dozen varieties, dating back to 1967.

What people are saying:

EaterLA has been one of many outlets singing the restaurant’s praises since day one. And they’re with me on the Southern Fry, writing, “Though the burgers are the main draw, the real star is the Southern Fry, a marvelous chicken sandwich to behold with wide eyes.”

From Zagat: “You may or may not have heard of Ernesto Uchimura’s smoky fried chicken before. If you have, and you haven’t gone to the West L.A. gastropub to try it yet, go right now.”

The article goes on to describe the fried chicken as “one of the most unique and delicious” in town.

Food bloggers are also on board. Bun Boy East LA writes, “This amazing fried chicken sandwich has to be tasted to be believed.”

What I think:

The next time I get asked about my favorite places to eat, Plan Check will be a part of the conversation.