Chuck Kirman/The Star
Michael Robb serves up an oyster sampler plate at Lure Fish House in Ventura. The sampler includes six oysters — three Blue Points and three Fanny Bays.

Ventura County Star

The new Lure Fish House in downtown Ventura, child of the original in Camarillo and sibling to the Westlake Village location, is a burst of fresh air on the culinary front. Open just a few weeks on California Street, filling the first floor of a freshly minted building, the restaurant is a welcome addition to the area where Ventura was born. From its small patio can be seen the still stately City Hall, once the county courthouse, at the hill end of the street, and an entry to the beach on the other. Parking is conveniently available in the city structure on Santa Clara Street, with easy access to Lure and other California Street businesses via a designated walkway.

We greeted the first Lure in Camarillo and were eager to check out the smaller site in Ventura. Happily I can report that previous favorites remain on the lunch and dinner menus and fresh local produce still enlivens the fare, buoyed by Lure's attention to seafood sustainability. The atmosphere is lighter and brighter, with windows on the street side, high ceilings, and the artful use of metal and glass.

Veracruz red clam chowder ($3.95 a cup) still hits the spot with us as a peppy potion bustling with seafood, veggies and tongue-tingling seasoning; the familiar New England version is (naturally) pale in comparison. The lobster spinach dip ($14.95) is a creamy delight, akin to creamed spinach with more cream and, of course, pieces of lobster floating on top. Crisp cuts of garlic bread are perfect for dipping. An oyster sampler ($11.95) of three Blue Point and three Fanny Bay bivalves got thumbs-up from the oyster fans in our group. A plate of Lure crabcakes proved light and creamy, perfectly contrasted by the cilantro corn salad on which they rested.

Something we hadn't noticed before on the Camarillo menu, though it may have been there, was billed as Today's Fresh Fruit Elixir ($4) and sounded too good to pass by. Ours was an intriguing blend of berry, pomegranate and pear, with pieces of the fruit at the base of the slender sparkling glass. It's an ideal refresher, either before or instead of glasses from the ample wine list.

The cioppino ($17.95) is full of fine examples of shellfish and other denizens of the sea: big, bold shrimp, tender scallops, calamari, clams, mussels and several different kinds of fish all added flavor points to the mixture presented in its very compatible fire-roasted tomato broth. Grilled Arctic char ($16.95) exuded a delicate charm that fit perfectly with sides of quinoa salad and black beans. The vegetable-filled and cheese-accented quinoa salad was also my choice to accompany the tender seared scallops, contrasting with their sweetness. A second side of Lure's pineapple coleslaw played to the compatible side of the sweet shellfish. Lure's sides definitely serve to enliven the menu. In addition to the already mentioned, they include sweet potato and traditional fries, Parmesan potato cake, chopped salad, local green beans and Brussels sprouts, and organic local carrots.

A slice of Theresa's Cheesecake ($6.95), made daily in-house, was rich enough to satisfy three already contented diners, along with fine cups of Italian-roast coffee.