Hi fellows. I may have stumbled upon something and hope someone can help. I have what appears to be an original GM DZ carburetor. Stamped on the choke horn are these Holley numbers from top to bottom: 3923289-DZ LIST 4053 902. It has the appropriate choke pull-off. The PCV hose tube is on the right-hand side of the baseplate.

Hey guys. I replaced my old gas gauge with a brand new one and have a problem. The car has half a tank of gas in it, but the gauge reads 3 notches below empty! It isn't even in the gauge register zone. The sender is a brand-new AC NOS piece and I know it's good. I know that sometimes if these gas gauges are dropped that the needle can be jostled out of position because only a tiny pin on the back of the needle holds the needle on. Would it be feasible to take the gauge back out, move the neeedle to half a tank, and expect it to read correctly from there? Or would power from the sender have to be going to the gauge when the needle is repositioned? Or is this even possible? I hate to think I just dropped $200 on a new gas gauge that isn't worth a hoot. Thanks!

Blocking off the manifold heat ports will stop the choke from working right if you have the spring/lever choke. That heat is what acts upon the spring and moves the choke flap open as the car warms up.

Do you mean jets or idle screws? If it's the idle screws, a good starting point is to run them all the way in, then back them out 1-1/2 turns. That will put you in the ballpark. Sounds like you may have gotten it a little lean and it's trying to pull fuel from the main boosters with your foot on the pedal. Good luck and hope this helps.

......... can't type wiping the drool from my chin......... wow you must have been born with a horseshoe up your (cough) nose! Seriously, this is what we all dream of discovering and dragging home. Suhweeeeeet.

I don't know of any source for buying individual distributor parts. Rick's sells complete rebuilt distributors ( except for the cap & rotor ) for around $100. One place you might check is a local starter/generator rebuilding shop. Some of those folks did distributors and may have some old ones just lying around. How long did your Pertronix last before it puked? I have one in my car and am curious. Good luck!

Don't trash ANYTHING as of yet. Aftermarket replacement stuff can make you crazy. Things will be missing or not quite right and you'll need an original reference. I recently bought a new set of front seats "complete and ready to install--just bolt them in". The seatback lock on the driver side didn't lock and needed tweaking, and the passenger seat was completely missing the cable that keeps it from hitting the dash and both seats sit about 2" too high. Ditto for door panels. My "exact replacement" high-dollar door panels had incorrect stainless trim that I had to swap from the old panels. The "correct" pillar post molding screws were wrong. The armrests didn't come with the stainless trim pieces. Lakeholme is so right--keep all hardware and I'll expand that to keep it all until you've finished the interior. You just never know.

Welcome! A Turbo 350 is a lot easier swap than a 400. You can keep your driveshaft and crossmember as the short tailshaft 350 is the same length as a Powerglide. You'll only need to change to a fine-spline transmission yoke. It's virtually a bolt-in. With any 400 you'll have to change the crossmember and the driveshaft will need a bastard u-joint because of the difference in yokes. The 350 uses a cable kickdown instead of the Powerglide mechanical linkage, but all you need there is a kickdown bracket for the cable that any Camaro vendor sells. Depending on your torque converter, you may even be able to use your PG flexplate and starter. You didn't say what shifter you have i.e. column or floor, but that's easily addressed. Unless that 383 is a killer, a 350 will live behind it. No question, the 400 is stronger. But it also has higher parasitic drag internally and a less favorable 1-2-3 gear drop than a 350. Hope this helps and good luck!

My first car was a 1964 Impala--327/300 with a Slip-O-Matic (Powerglide). I drove it all through high school and cut my teeth on the art of hot rodding with it. My dad promised to buy me my first 1968 Camaro for graduating high school in 1975. The catch: Sell the '64 to help offset the cost of the Camaro. I graduated and he bought the Camaro for $900. I sold the '64 for $350 and gave him the money. To this day I'd love to have that land barge back as nostalgia.Unfortunately, the guy I sold it to didn't know much about tuning a hot 327 and it backfired on him and burned up under the hood. The Impala wound up in the junkyard. What a waste.

Most of the reputable vendors sell the same products. Some--like Rick's--will eat you alive on markup and shipping--shop around. Ground Up and Camaro Central are two vendors I've had good service from. The folks at Camaro Central are especially helpful and courteous. PUI Interiors is a good name at a reasonable price, as is OER but when you're dealing with any aftermarket parts, don't expect perfection. Keep in mind that your '67 has Impala leather, not the 68-69 Bedford grain. If you take the old headliner out yourself NUMBER THE LISTING WIRES front to rear. They are all different widths. Also mark the holes on each side that they came out of. Also, bag and tag all screws as to the location they came from. You'll probably need new sail panel clips that attach to the back of the sail panels because they are commonly rusted. You'll probably need new visor supports because your old ones are likely pitted with age. Your installer should have everything else at his shop. Hope this helps and good luck!

Probably not the fuel pump. Being mechanical it either works or it doesn't. But it wouldn't hurt to pull the dipstick and smell for gas. If the diaphragm is leaking it's going straight into the engine oil. Excellent suggestion, Bullitt. And if the choke was sticking, it'd load them up even more and make them foul.