Guys, need some suggestions on how to make a 'stock as it can be' 71 510 2dr go around a 7 degree 1/4 mile oval fast. We run against 87-91 1.5L SOHC Honda Civics. We are building an L18. Is this all about suspension really or what? Please email me directly as well if you can. Any help appreciated. Best to you for the new year. Ross.

Rats...I guess they knew I was going to look at tire size right off the bat. I would still measure the mounted tires you may have, and put the tallest ones to the outside, you never know what manufacturing tolerances may produce.
I would try more castor on the right, than on the left, as this will both induce more negative camber, and help pull the car to the left due to the unequal castor. Also try some toe OUT on the driver side, this will help the car turn in to the left.
Can you move the battery? I would put it in the left rear of the car if you can, trying to get the weight off the right side of the car any way you can.
Obviously tire pressure differential will help with the "stagger" of the car.
If you can get away with it, put a subtle spacer(s) on top of the rear spring perch and front strut, to try to weight jack the car a bit. ( on the right side of course)

As for the motor, you could talk to Jeff at COLT CAMS, as he could specify a nice torquey camshaft for you.

Where are you located?

Your biggest problem, in my opinion, will be to control the rear end from getting TOO much oversteer. The poor design of the 510 rear causes the rear to TOE OUT. The key will be to use this to your advantage, with out it being a liability, as you try to use the throttle to steer the car. Pay attention to that, and fiddle with it as the rules allow. IF it was me trying this, I would set it up as my cars is, with NO rear toe out, then the ability to fine tune the whole package can be done with the front/rear roll resistance, and the throttle. I would be trying different spring rates side to side also.

Man what a limited set of rules.The 7 degree banking,does it transition down to a flat straightaway?Is the track smooth or rough,is it paved or dirt?Is it narrow eg.one groove?Does it have a round configuration,or a paperclip configuration?Give me some more info,i missspent my youth racing 510's on ovals.Pay VERY close attention to what Bertvorgon posted,about the rear of the car.DAN

Hey thanks. Car must be level front to back and must use all stock parts as close as we can. Camber must be zero with no tolerance. Thanks so much for your input though. I think by the time we finish the new brakes, new suspension and motor work, we found a stock A87 closed chamber peanut head, we should be good out of the box. The guy we have driving is well versed on rear wheel drives and what you suggested about driving with the throttle in corners, he should be very good at. Again thanks. Ross.

Thank you. I'd love to speak to you on the phone if possible? My number is 902-869-2000. Call anytime and leave your number and I'll give you a call. Where are you located? To answer some of your questions below.

Almost flat straights. Ashpalt. Smooth. Round as round can be based upon the size. Best times are about 18.5 sec. 4-5 grooves on back, 2 1/2 in corners and 3 on front straight. Check out the rules link above. Thanks. Ross.

Man what a limited set of rules.The 7 degree banking,does it transition down to a flat straightaway?Is the track smooth or rough,is it paved or dirt?Is it narrow eg.one groove?Does it have a round configuration,or a paperclip configuration?Give me some more info,i missspent my youth racing 510's on ovals.Pay VERY close attention to what Bertvorgon posted,about the rear of the car.DAN

Look at some 610 stuff.....nudge, nudge, wink, wink....(if you can find it)

Also, you could "bend" the rear arm to get toe in, so the suspension looks stock. yah, I agree with S15, you could use two different sets of springs. if camber has to be zero, then try the castor trick...it can be done with some creativity....You likely should try to use 300 at the front and 1100 at the rear, as that is going to be the best roll control you can get, or, can you use ANY size anti-roll bar?

wow, this reminds me of the DRC battles...look out Smokey Yunick......

If you have to use the stock insert, which the rule implies...drain the factory oil, and put 20-30w Belray motorcycle fork oil in. I solo'ed with that for years and it works just fine, maintains the factory bump/ rebound, just slows things a bit, which should be fine in the roundy round world.

Where it says camber must be zero for all four wheels is going to be kinda tough on a 510, as the very nature of the rear end will give you negative and positive camber as it moves through it's arc. This is where you must try to run a really stiff spring, or, try to find a truck shock, nudge, nudge, wink , wink, that will go into the space, and try to use that for slowing the weight transfer, and hence any toe out. The 510 rear will just kill you for making it unstable under trailing throttle/and/or brake. You will be at a very distinct disadvantage right off the bat, unless you get some rear toe in, and lots of it.

I don't think the organizers full appreciate the uniqueness of a 510 in this show.