I was pleasantly surprised when I scanned the warranty form and noticed that the warranty was for 2 years instead of 1 year as posted on SonyStyle, except for the lamp which is still 90 days. As the warranty form states "VPL Front Projector", I'm assuming this wasn't a mistake. Has anybody received a different warranty? Thanks.

Reasons for low measurements
1 Inaccurate measurement with a cheapo light meter
2 Lens in tele position
3 Lamp variation
4 Calibration well done or not well done can have a big impact on the light output. It is a skill to get D65 with as much lumen as possible.

We should not be too focused on the number. In a dedicated home theater you really do not need that much fL off the screen.

i hope this projector comes out soon here in finland as i've placed an order for one and it shall be my first real HD display.. mwuahahahaa!

i've been searching for the right display for years now unwilling to take the plunge but when i found out about this one.. everything i've read about the SXRD pjs just makes them sound better and better and when i saw the vpl-vw60 in action it looked quite awesome.

at 2000 the price is right too, seeing as how the last display i thought might be the one was a 50" kuro plasma (~5000)

I stopped into a Sony Style store in Toronto yesterday with the intention of ordering this projector.

Surprise, Surprise it was in stock in the back. Only 1. 8 Hours on the bulb already!

Coming from a Sony VPL-HS60, I am very very pleased with this purchase. Looks great overall with minimal tweaking as mentioned in this thread. I also recevied the free Blu-ray player card in the box and will be sending that in shortly. To anybody on the fence about this unit. I don't see any reason for regrets.

Also Bioshock looks decent on this (720P), what really is outstanding is Dead Space and Wipeout HD! Wow!

I bet it is^^
And as soon as there will be a grpahics card that can display Crysis properly i will be in for an optical feast.
And i can't wait to watch BluRays, but the PS3 gotta wait another 1 or 2 weeks i suppose...

I bet it is^^
And as soon as there will be a grpahics card that can display Crysis properly i will be in for an optical feast.
And i can't wait to watch BluRays, but the PS3 gotta wait another 1 or 2 weeks i suppose...

Not to derail this thread, but I really enjoyed Crysis on the Radeon 4870 X2 on my HTPC/Gaming setup. I will be going back and playing some slightly older titles on this setup as well.

Coming from a Sony VPL-HS60, I am very very pleased with this purchase.

Dan, when you get a moment, I'd love to hear a more detailed comparison of your HS60 experience to the new Sony.

My biggest complaints with the HS60/51A have been:

- the red/blue left/right bias, or what is sometimes referred to as gamma shading error or gray scale uniformity error.

- grayscale errors under the AUTO iris, such as when the video processing pushes bright portions of an otherwise dark scene. The video processing induces a grayscale color shift as it attempts to boost the level of bright areas with the dark scene.

LCOS is not immune to poor factory gamma shading mapping, but I wonder how well the HW10 is setup.

This week-end I installed my projector and since I do not yet own a screen, I had to project on a light sand colored wall, but nevertheless here are my impressions:
The picture is very sharp, but I needed to adjust the panel alignment to get the best results, on a moiré pattern, it was just a mess until I adjusted the panels.

The picture is great and very similar to what I recall the JVC RS1U to give me on the same colored wall, but I think that the JVC was a little brighter and I wished that the Sony had just a little more light for the 106” diag. area I was shooting at. Thanks to CC2 who gave me his samples from Carada, I taped them on the wall and it certainly is brighter on the white portions of the picture. Funny enough, before putting up the Carada samples, you could swear that the white in the picture was really white when in fact it was the sand color of the wall. The blacks are very inky black and shooting on the Carada 1.4 gain sample lifted them a bit. This is what is stopping me right now in ordering a gain screen, I am afraid of losing those great blacks ! Maybe just reducing the brightness control could correct this, but it was hard to tell from a 8” x 11” sample.

There was lots of shadow details (the palm roof of the Casino at night in the last James Bond) and all of the tuxedos in Casino Royale looked great. The lack of a screen was probably compensated by the JVC lumens output in my setup, the Sony still looks amazing and will probably be perfect on a unity gain screen of 106”.

About 4 years ago, we used a JVC DiLA SX-21 for the rushes of The Aviator and even though the blacks were in my opinion a little too milky, it was the best projector we could get for $14,000 at the time and the director really liked it. Last year, I bought JVC RS1U for $6,500 for the rushes of the Mummy III and the production could not believe the quality and we shot on a 120”screen from a very narrow angle causing the picture to be in the 11 foot lambert and they still did not mind (they wanted a big screen).

Today for about $3,000 there comes this projector that probably gives you close to 90% of the quality of the RS1U, I am very happy with my purchase. Not even mentioning how the Sony is nicer to calibrate and does not complain constantly about the HDMI input it lost for a fraction of a second...

As far as calibration goes, I think that the default settings of the cinema mode is so good, I would not recommend anybody to fool around with them unless you have access to a professional calibration probe, maybe a cheap probe is O.K. to get you in the ballpark if you are far, but from the readings that I got with a Minolta probe (which I checked with my Photoresearch PR-650) the preset of the Cinema mode is really good and this seems to concur with Jason evaluation.

In one of my previous post, I said that I needed to back up the contrast to about 82 in order to prevent clipping with the signal coming from an HD-Cam, well with a blu-ray disk, this is no longer true. The setting of 90 is perfect, but if you increase it over 90, then it starts to clip, at 97 I was clipped by about 5%.

My recommendation for this projector would be to : adjust zoom, focus and panel alignment, then select Cinema mode and you are all set! One note on lumens output, I will probably bring the probe home in two weeks and measure again using the Carada samples, the initial test was done on a Mustang screen, but even if get “only” 13FL on a 106” screen, it is probably better than many movie theaters, since some (if not many) of them do not respect the 14FL norm in order to save $$$ on projector lamps replacement cost…

This morning I had the idea of checking a VPL-VW50 light output. I do most of my tests with a white chip on a black background.

On my firts test, I had a large white chip and with auto Iris on or off, it would not make a difference. I was getting about 18.5 FL.

On my second test I had 4 smaller chips of different levels on a black background. On the white chip with auto Iris off, I was getting 19FL and with auto Iris on mode 1, I was getting 14FL and on mode 2, I was getting 19 FL. This means that on the VW50, mode 1 emphasize the blacks and mode 2 might also, but to a lesser degree depending on content.

Now to come back to the HW-10, I cannot confirm if I did my reading on the large white chip or the pattern with the 4 smaller chip. But if I did it on the latter, it means that the HW10 can probably give a lot more that 13FL on a 106" diag screen.

I will have to take more readings on the HW-10 and be careful about the Auto Iris mode. For sure when I took my reading, I was in the Auto 1 mode.

Here is the part numbers to order for the Peerless support fully adjustable by micro-gears:

PRG-1 adjustable support
PAP-SNY1 dedicated Sony interface plate good for the VW-50/60 and HW10
ACC570, ceiling plate
EXT006 6 extension column, available in different length

It was cheaper than the Sony support and offers a lot more finer adjustments and easy removal of the projector (can be locked with supplied secure Allen key).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Pyro

It would be great if you could confirm that, it would really make me worry less

The ealiest I could take new readings would be next week-end, but I was not planning to, since I have to move furniture to the cottage with my old pick-up truck and did not want to be bothered by bringing expensive calibration equipment along...

I am a first time buyer seeking advice. Watching movies on SD DVDs with plans to buy BD, in the light controlled HT room. First quarter of the ceiling is dark, rest is white. Already have screen 106'' gain 1.3.

I am a first time buyer seeking advice. Watching movies on SD DVDs with plans to buy BD, in the light controlled HT room. First quarter of the ceiling is dark, rest is white. Already have screen 106'' gain 1.3.

I am a first time buyer seeking advice. Watching movies on SD DVDs with plans to buy BD, in the light controlled HT room. First quarter of the ceiling is dark, rest is white. Already have screen 106’’ gain 1.3.

Thanks!

It depends if you need motorized zoom and focus, if not, I think the HW-10 is better because of higher contrast ratio, newer processing that includes deep and x.v. Color. It also has a newer lamp (might last longer, to be determined I guess !) and whatever promotion Sony is offering...

I also believe that a very important argument to many is that the HW10 is, if calibrated, about 200 Lumens brighter than the VW40 (according to Jason).
Even in a light-controlled room where the full brightness is not required that leaves more room for operation in Eco mode.

BTW, why is Deep Color important? I have read somewhere that Bluray does not support this feature and it never will. So having PJ with HDMI 1.3b is overkill?

It's not very important now as there is no source material. You're right that Blu-Ray won't support it, most likely the first sources will be games. It might be important down the road, but who knows when? And more importantly for many, will you need an excuse to upgrade at that point anyway?