Clark Wolf sings the parises of American fresh cheeses, especially those from Dallas' Mozzarella Co. in Deep Ellum

I’m not sure which to praise most highly: Wolf’s spritely good humor, the 13 cheeses we tasted (all of which are available in CM’s cheese department), or the accompanying dishes — specifically the arugula & goat cheese salad pictured above (so simple) and Wolf’s cheddar & chive strata (both recipes available in Wolf’s book, American Cheeses). Wolf was a pip, the cheeses thrilled, but the strata, which contained — and I don’t mean to startle you — 15 eggs and 5 cups of half-and-half, is what I woke up thinking about this morning. It’s an indulgence, to be sure, and is best eaten before a day in the fields, milking goats, draining vats, and digging caves, but let the record show that I did eat my entire portion and lived to tell the tale.

Want to make your own cheesy memories ? Check out the line-up, especially this Friday’s Learn @ Lunch, Cheese Please! class, or that evening’s The Cheese Board sampling event — two and a half hours of cheese tasting with wine and beer pairings.