Description

Start below the dihedral. Either climb the corner up or climb up the face to the right on jugs to a good stance to get into the dihedral. Place about a #0.5 BD cam size piece in the crack, finger lock and throw up to a jug on the face to mantel onto the ledge. I thought this was the crux.

Climb easier rock to the rest of the dihedral. Finger locks or liebacking with a few hand jam pods get you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and some slings.

Location

This route is a couple of routes to the right of Rednekk Justice. It is the obvious, chalked up dihedral.

I don't think Rednekk is 12+ or even close. I rated this route on the basis of how I felt about it after I climbed it (although I know someone else has the FA of this route and rated it on their basis). What would you rate it?

Some guys from Gunny said that this was .9, and comparing this to the other routes I've climbed in the area, I have to agree with them, throw in a plus for a few punchy moves. I kinda got served on this route, and it's probably going to be harder than most .9+s at other areas, at the Creek it probably would be .11, but it's not an Escalante .11. Fun adventurous climbing though.

Wasn't trying to criticize your rating so much, just trying to say that Rednekk is (in my opinion) much harder than this route. Ratings are subjective as always and everyone has the right to rate a route however they see fit.

Awkward is a good term. As a heads up, rock halfway up and for the last 10 feet is very sandy and soft. Rope friction is rapidly degrading these sections. Climbers looking for Escalante "moderates" may use some caution.

Calling this 5.9 will get some one hurt. It was harder than many a 5.10a in Escalante, and it has sandy slippery and manky rock up top. In fact, I would say it is harder than the opening moves to S Crack.