Today I will make the trip to Massawa, to join
the group of Italians and Tedros and Doris of Travel House International
and Eritrea Tours for the visit to the Dahlak Islands.

Clouds surround the mountains
between Asmara and Nefasit. It is like riding through fog. Yerusalem, a
female teacher from Asmara sitting next to me, tells me this is a usual
phenomenon in November. It is winter in Eritrea. I have to plan a hike to
experience this on foot one of these days.

After Ghinda the sky is blue
and the temperature is rising. We both fall asleep, not to wake up until
we reach Massawa. The bus stops at a regular interval. I get off when it
turns to the right, last stop before the bus terminal and roughly follow
the railway line, that will go all the way to the port district of Massawa.

It is hot, but in winter, and
still early, bars and shops on both sides on the road, I prefer to walk
the last three kilometers to the Red Sea Hotel, where the group of Tedros
is staying. The Red Sea Hotel is recently build, modern, clean, and
expensive, but it will be easy to communicate with Tedros.

After checking in, I walk to
to next island, the old port area. In a small bar, still on the Tualed
Island I drink a few cups of tea, trying to start a conversation with a
young girl that is managing the place on her own. There is only two
visitors in her bar. It is noon and most people are resting. The girl
tells me I should rest, instead of proceeding my walk. No time to rest.

There is two wedding
ceremonies today. Two tents, women preparing suwa and food. I meet Martin
and Sylvia, who are in Eritrea to visit their daughter working for the Red
Cross in Asmara. With them I spend the rest of the afternoon, beers,
dinner in restaurant Eritrea, and when it gets dark we explore downtown
Massawa, drinking Araki and enjoying the Eritrean music on a terrace.

We end at the two wedding
ceremonies. I challenge Martin and Sylvia to enter the tent, where we
witness the music, the singing and the dancing of the guests, congratulate
the just married couples and enjoy the enthusiasm of the people.