I'l tell ya.. after putting more rounds thru my F2000... I think the MAIN problem with the trigger is the depth of pull... Practice a drill where you pull the trigger, and then release it just enough to hear a 'click' and then pull again.. When I do this, I'm QUITE happy with the F2000's trigger... It could be ligher still... but it's really not as abysmol as people say.... It just needs proper trigger technique..

wanna try this at home? Clear your rifle or pistol.. make sure it's unloaded.. this is no time to guess.... point it in a safe direction, and pull the trigger as if aiming at a target... After the hammer releases, Keep the trigger held down, and use your other hand to cock the firearm again..... Then reassume your shooting stance, and let off of the trigger just until you feel / hear the click... then pull again. Practicing this tecnique has dramatically improved my shot consistancy, and understanding of my trigger's limitations.

Interesting. I purchased the hammer group directly from FNH for the FS2000 and it looks identical to yours but my pins are flared and they would have to be hammered out. Mine won't budge. The ends are slightly larger than the pin itself. Maybe the earlier units are different. I would lke to see yours disassembled. How did you get the disconnector pin out? It's pinned in place from underneath (the black pin in the oval cutout in the picture below).

If you look at the sear, it has the neu-trigger installed. This is what smooths out the trigger pull very effectively.

Personally, for $2,000 you shouldn't have to tollerate at crappy trigger. Maybe on a saturday night special but not on a $2,000 gun. In a panic situation your fine motor skills disappear. I'm less forgiving than you. Too bad you don't live closer. I like to show you the difference I've made with the AUG. These hammer groups would be great if you could make the pull weight adjustable.

drcoffee, since you've been ok'ed by the f3rr37 I'd volunteer to help test them. I don't know if my trigger pack is riveted or pinned but I know it has the brown sear. What do you need of your text subjects? I'll see if I can help

Initial test on an FS2000 is promising. One forum member has contacted me with positive results.

"FS2000

Install: Piece of cake, took me less than two minutes to install.

Trigger Weight:

Before: 5.75 Kg (12 lbs.)

After: 4.5 Kg (9.5 - 10 lbs)

Trigger Feel:

Before: The trigger had a long travel and had a very rough gritty feel to it. By the end of the travel, your finger is fatigued and it feels like a 12 lbs trigger. I was very surprised at the 5.75 trigger weight. I thought the bad trigger was the worst feature of the FS2000.

After: What a difference! The trigger feels incredibly smooth like it’s skating on ice. The long travel is still there but it is buttery smooth. Before the Neu-Trigger, I used to love the PS90 trigger. Now it makes the PS90 trigger feel like crap.

I just got mine. I haven't had a chance to actually fire with it but dry fires are certainly better. It does not really reduce the pull weight or length but it does make it a lot smoother.
Well, for the pull weight, it is a smoother movement (plastic sliding across metal instead of plastic sliding across plastic) so there is less friction to overcome therefore it is probably a little less pull weight. :ponder:
I am eager to try it out at the range

drcoffee wrote:Initial test on an FS2000 is promising. One forum member has contacted me with positive results.

"FS2000

Install: Piece of cake, took me less than two minutes to install.

Trigger Weight:

Before: 5.75 Kg (12 lbs.)

After: 4.5 Kg (9.5 - 10 lbs)

Trigger Feel:

Before: The trigger had a long travel and had a very rough gritty feel to it. By the end of the travel, your finger is fatigued and it feels like a 12 lbs trigger. I was very surprised at the 5.75 trigger weight. I thought the bad trigger was the worst feature of the FS2000.

After: What a difference! The trigger feels incredibly smooth like it’s skating on ice. The long travel is still there but it is buttery smooth. Before the Neu-Trigger, I used to love the PS90 trigger. Now it makes the PS90 trigger feel like crap.

Dr. Coffee, what about the video where you lower it down dramatically to about 2 lbs? Is this possible with all your trigger groups for any gun?

Never attribute to malice that which can be explained by stupidity.
The shooter will always matter more than the gear ever will.
Stop relying on others to do the work for you.
Shoot more, worry less.

You can lower the pull weight on the Steyr AUG by relaxing the trigger spring. On the FS2000 you would need to either find springs with a lower rate (Wolf springs) or you can cut a coil at a time from both springs until you reach the point you like the pull weight. The latter is permanent though. The concern with this gun is the inertia of the sear if you bump the buttstock. You could release the hammer without pulling the trigger. The twin springs keep the hammer cocked. I probably wouldn't set it below 7# for safety sake.

And removing one spring will be too soft. Never mind the asymetrical forces on the parts.

Sure am glad there's at least one person out there who knows what's going on inside these things. I, myself, am completely clueless. I just assume there are some distant cousins of the refrigerator gnomes inside with little hammers or something happily clanging away every time you pull the trigger.

Has anyone been successful in taking out the trigger bar without splitting the cases? In the FN Manual it states to break down the weapon take the bar out of the trigger, remove the trigger then cross the bars in the rear and pull out. I have tried this numerous times but each time the rod gets stuck.

It seems the discussion about pins or rivets is an old one, though I never saw a conclusion posted.

The bottom line answer is that there are some pins which slide out, and the pin that joins the trigger to the disconnector has a pin in it that has an internal shoulder cut, so after it is in, there is a very small metal retaining pin that is inserted into a blind hole in the disconnector that locks it in there. So no, it is not a rivet, but functionally I have not found an easy way to get it out without breaking something.