Description

This popular dome is quite large, south-facing, and hosts many fine moderate sport and trad routes. Most routes are single pitch with rap anchors, but for those that do summit, an easy downclimb is possible.

Getting There

The mileage at 2.8 from the start of the canyon off of CR96 on the right side of the road (no river crossing).

Be aware of communication concerns. Due to the river noise below it is difficult or impossible to hear each other on the routes that are longer than half a rope (80 feet) long. "The Overleaf", "Cheryl's Perils", "Moby Grape" and "Original Sin" are ones that alternate communication plans would be benificial. Consider rope tugs, pra-arranged non-verbal sequence of events, or two way radios on these routes, and possibly others if river flow is high.

I agree with Bill. Alternative communication plans are a must here. My girlfriend and I purchased two way radios the night before and used them here. Climbing long pitches has never been easier and funner. Nothing is worse than not being able to communicate when both of your lives depend on it. Radios are cheap and are a lot safer, I believe, than rope tugs. Especially when the tugs can get confusing. Anyways, a great area to climb, although it does get extremely busy and dusty from its proximity right off the road.

Does anyone know the name and rating of the bolted route far on the right of Elevenmile Dome (to the right of Happy Trails)? It starts at a ledge with a tree and the second pitch has two bolts and goes over a roof.

My partner and I did a climb yesterday between Stone Groove and The Overleaf. We began down and left of the Overleaf and climbed up into zig-zagging cracks that are obvious from the road to the south of the dome. There are a couple of belay options for the first pitch. I went straight up for the second pitch through more discontinuous cracks to a low-angle slab with a very easy runout. The belay options for the 2nd pitch aren't great so we got creative, then traversed over a huge flake near the top of the beautiful Stone Groove, down to the tree, then out. A fun, adventurous outing with somewhat challenging pro. Thanks Sean!

The beta in the Rock Climbing Colorado book by Falcon Guides sucks for this area, a few things are mislabeled and therefore the ratings are off... descriptions/pictures/route numbers are "off by one", so just beware... obvious 5.5 easy slab "Counter Strike" is a good point of reference....