Bob the brewer has trimmed his beard for the summer. Owner of Walking Man Brewing in Stevenson, Wash., the long-haired, bespectacled Bob Craig has neatly styled his generous beard so that it now falls somewhere between his chin and chest. I know from experience that a day on the ski hill can make his winter whiskers look like they belong on a Yeti.

This, he said, giving it a tug, is his summer look.

That's not all that's new for summer, Craig tells me as we sit in his pub. The award-winning brewery is serving a couple of new beers: the Firewalker, a chile pepper-infused malt, and the Sasquatch Legacy Project IPA, which bears a hefty 9.1percent alcohol content. Craig is most excited about the seasonal return of the Czech-style Flip-Flop Pilsner.

Numerous awards adorn one wall of the pub, including golds from the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup. There are others. Craig laughs, waves a hand toward the plaque-covered wall. Too many to remember.

Craig's attitude captures the feel of Walking Man Brewing: accomplished and understated. This is also the spirit of Stevenson itself -- a laid-back attitude concealing layers of unique character. Stevenson has a way of grabbing your attention and refusing to let go.

I should know. Years ago I came here for a few days to learn how to kiteboard. Since then I've found myself drawn back time and again to this little town just off the beaten track.

Woods and water Just 40 miles east of Portland on the north side of the river, Stevenson (pop. 1,400) is often overlooked by visitors to the Columbia River Gorge. But once you find it on a map, you might wonder how you missed it in the first place.

For one thing, the magnificent Gifford Pinchot National Forest is Stevenson's backyard. The 1.3-million-acre spread includes Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams and Indian Heaven Wilderness, dotted with 175 small lakes.

Those mountains take a longer commitment, but options for day hikes are numerous here. The Pacific Crest Trail leaves State Route 14 from the west end of town and hits views of the Big Lava Bed within a short distance. The Trapper Creek Wilderness -- 6,050 acres of diverse habitat including old-growth forest -- offers a variety of hikes. Plodding up toward other local peaks such as Grassy Knoll and Big Huckleberry Mountain, you might find yourself completely alone in the thick tree line, but you probably won't miss the crowds down the road at Dog Mountain.

Mountain bikers are drawn to the nearby Falls Creek Trail, 16 to 20 miles of continuous single-track riding that more than one experienced rider has described as a favorite.

Mike Niebuhr, who works at Hood River's Dirty Fingers Bicycle Repair and leads group rides for the shop, said he loves the remoteness of the Falls Creek ride.

"It kind of feels like you are in Sasquatch country," he said. "You really get a sense of being alone out there."

Niebuhr's advice to newcomers to the trail, which can be ridden as a shuttle or a loop: Get a map and "go with someone who knows."

Stevenson's waterfront area also has big recreational pull, both old and new. Like many gorge communities, this place first drew windsurfers in the 1980s for its consistent westerly winds. Bob's Beach remains a popular launch spot. Sailors tear across the water, their sails glinting like dragonfly wings in the sunlight.

In more recent years, Stevenson has quietly grown a lively kiteboarding scene. Some think conditions for the sport, windsurfing's younger sibling, are better at Stevenson than other gorge locations.

Renee Hanks, former professional kiteboarder and youth instructor, said Stevenson is a good place for beginners because it is less crowded, barge-free and has an open, safe place to land downwind. Consistent wind is a factor, too. Stevenson is at a wide spot in the river with no islands or outcroppings to obstruct the airflow.

"The wind tends to be more mellow and steadier than some spots in the gorge," Hanks said. Hanks, who also helped organize the Bridge of the Gods kiteboarding competition for many years, said Stevenson's winds are good for top-notch riders, too.

Big culture Stevenson's amusements aren't all muscle-powered. The area plays host to several summertime festivals that are as different from each other as they are unique.

The 101st annual Skamania County Fair & Timber Carnival fills the local fairgrounds Aug. 12-16. The timber carnival harks back to the area's logging days and gives participants the chance to compete in such tests of skill as log rolling, ax throwing and sawing.

The Bigfoot Bash and Bounty celebrates the elusive Sasquatch, who can legally count on protection here, according to Skamania County ordinances passed in 1969 and 1984. That event takes place Aug. 28-30 this year in nearby Home Valley.

For me, a typical summer evening ends on the patio at the Walking Man, the melting pot that distills the spirit of Stevenson.