The country can be split into three basic ecoregions. To the east of the highlands are the hot, arid coastal plains stretching down to Djibouti in the south. The cooler, more fertile highlands split the country in two, reaching up to 3000m. Habitats here vary from the sub-tropical rainforest at Filfil Solomuna to the precipitous cliffs and gorges of the southern highlands. To the west of the highlands, the gently sloping plains of Gash Bark fall into the Sudan-Guinea biome, home to many species typical of Sahel savannah.

Eritrea also happens to lie on one of the major migration routes into Africa, guaranteeing excellent birdwatching in both spring and autumn, concentrated along the coastal plain, and the eastern escarpment edge of the highlands. Large numbers of raptors pass through Eritrea on their way to their wintering grounds in central and southern Africa.

The country is poor, and bureaucracy is strict, but the people are kind and very friendly, and travelling within the permitted areas it is safe. Crime is very low by African standards, as is street hassle. A good guide is necessary to get you to all the best locations and to help with the bureaucracy but in a week it is easily possible to visit the hotspots, see most of the endemics and take home about 200 species.

There are also a large number of near-endemics (birds which are native to the Horn of Africa): Erckel's Francolin, Blanford's Lark, White-headed (Cretschmar's) Babbler, White-rumped Babbler, Abyssinian Black Wheatear, Somali Starling, Swainson's Sparrow, Ruppell's Weaver, African Citril and Brown-rumped Seed-eater.

Eritrea’s extensive coastal mangrove forests are the only place in Africa where White-collared Kingfisher breeds, and a recent study* found that the Eritrean Red Sea islands are of international importance as breeding sites for a number of sea and shorebirds, including White-eyed Gull (33% of the world population), Crab Plover (20% of world population), Lesser Crested Tern, Brown Noddy, Eurasian Spoonbill, Brown Booby, Greater Crested Tern, White-cheeked Tern and Bridled Tern. The threatened Socotra Cormorant is also suspected to breed on the southern islands.

Eritrea has plentiful raptor species (59 recorded). Lammergeier are still fairly frequent in the southern highlands, along with Ruppell’s Vulture and Griffon Vulture (winter). Verreaux’s Eagle, Tawny Eagle and Long-crested Eagle are resident, and large numbers of esp. Aquila eagle species can be found either on passage or throughout the winter, including Steppe Eagle, Lesser and Greater Spotted Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle and Wahlberg’s Eagle. Significant numbers of these migrating species can be counted along the eastern escarpment of the Abyssinian highlands near Asmara, especially at the Asmara rubbish dump in February/March.

The rocky uplands in Adi Keih and Senafe Sub Zobas are particularly good for Wheatears (11 species in Eritrea), Chats (10 species in Eritrea) and Rock Thrushes.

Travel permits for all the locations listed below can be obtained from the tourist office in Asmara. Remember that the Eritreans are not used to people birdwatching in their country, and there is a large military presence in some areas. Always ask before getting out your binoculars if in doubt! However, if you explain to most people what you are doing they are nearly always amenable and interested. In two years living in the country, I had very few problems and converted several Eritreans to the hobby!

Top Sites

Adi Keih Sub Zoba is excellent for Abyssinian endemics and highland specialities: Several sites near Adi Keih provide good birdwatching, especially for the Abyssinian endemics: Hawatsu: is on the road between Segeneiti and Adi Keih, 41km after Segeneiti, 9km before Adi Keih. There is a dam here which is productive for waders and other waterbirds for most of the year. Just upstream of the dam is a grassy pasture where Wattled Ibis often feed in the thickest grass. Also, near here on the other side of the road is a small valley (near the Eucalyptus copse, behind the few houses. Walk up this valley to find several of the Abyssinian endemic species in the copse of native trees that still survive in a small gorge here. Highlight species include: Wattled Ibis, White-billed Starling, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Banded Barbet, White-cheeked Turaco, Erckel's Francolin, Northern Paradise Flycatcher, Klaas's Cuckoo, Brown Woodland Warbler, Tacazze Sunbird, Ruppell's Robin Chat, Long-legged Buzzard (winter), Maccoa Duck, Verreaux’s Eagle and Temminck’s Courser on the plateau above the copse.

Safira/Qohaito & Karibossa: Qohaito is famous for its Auxmite archaeological remains, but birdwatching is particularly good here too. There are some steep cliffs to the east where Ruppell’s and Egyptian Vulture nest, and White-collared Pigeon roost, while Alpine and Mottled Swift hurtle past. Near the so-called ‘Egyptian Tomb’ is a steep valley where several other endemics can be found, including Ruppell’s Black Chat, Black-winged Lovebird, Banded Barbet and the rare White-backed Black Tit. If you have time to drive further along the road to Karibossa, this village has quite a few native trees and is very good for the Abyssinian endemics, including Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Black-winged Lovebird, White-billed Starling, White-cheeked Turaco, Banded Barbet, White-collared Pigeon, Ruppell's Black Chat and White-throated Seed-eater. Other local delicacies include: Verreaux's Eagle Owl, Little Rock Thrush, African Olive Pigeon (newly discovered here), Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Brown-rumped Seed-eater, Slender-billed Starling, Erckel's Francolin, Lanner Falcon, Tawny Eagle, Ruppell's Vulture and Egyptian Vulture.

Asmara for the eastern escarpment and waterbirds at surrounding reservoirs:

The escarpment edge is often productive for migrating species, especially raptors. The best places to see them are easily accessed along the Massawa road. The Asmara rubbish dump can be smelt to the left side of the road as soon as you start descending from Asmara, just past the customs checkpoint. From October to December, and especially from February to March large numbers of Aquila eagles congregate here along with other raptors and lots of Hamadryas Baboons (seen best early morning). A little further along the road is Bar Durfo, less smelly but often with good views of raptors cruising on the thermals nearby. To find other migrant species, park on the Asmara side of the checkpoint, and explore the bushes along the escarpment edge just below the orthodox church nearby. Species here could include: Steppe Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Eastern Imperial Eagle, Booted Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Wahlberg's Eagle, Verreaux's Eagle, African Hawk Eagle, Black Kite, Common Buzzard, Augur Buzzard, Lanner Falcon, Peregrine Falcon, Common Kestrel, Abdim's Stork, Nyanza Swift, White-rumped Swift, Alpine Swift, Mottled Swift, White-rumped Babbler, Banded Barbet. Smaller migrants that are seen in spring and autumn include Common Cuckoo, Ortolan Bunting, Wryneck, Golden Oriole, Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Bee-eater, Red-backed Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Isabelline Shrike, Whitethroat and several swallow species, including Red-rumped Swallow and House Martin.

Several reservoirs (‘deega’ in Tigrinya) near Asmara are productive for migrating waders, wildfowl and other waterbirds. Mai Nefe (20km from Asmara towards Mendefera) has the largest dam. Smaller but often productive are Acria and Adi Nfas (accessed via an unsurfaced road that heads north east out of Asmara), Mai Sarwa (just west of the main road to Keren – turn off at Adi Ebeito) and Radar (due west of Asmara, near the large antenna that can be seen from the city). Species at these dams could include: Little Grebe, Great-crested Grebe, Long-tailed Cormorant, Great Cormorant, Pink-backed Pelican, Black-headed Heron, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Hammerkop, Yellow-billed Stork, White Stork, Black Stork, Abdim's Stork, Greater Flamingo, Sacred Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Garganey, Eurasian Wigeon, Common Teal, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Common Pochard, Ferruginous Duck, Tufted Duck, Maccoa Duck, Black Kite, Black-shouldered Kite, African Fish Eagle, Augur Buzzard, Tawny Eagle, African Hawk Eagle, African Harrier Hawk, Lesser Kestrel, Lanner Falcon, Collared Pratincole, Spur-winged Lapwing, Black-winged Stilt, Three-banded Plover, Ruff, Marsh Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Redshank, White-winged Tern, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, European Bee-eater, Yellow-breasted Barbet, Eurasian Hoopoe, Thelka Lark, Yellow Wagtail, White-throated Robin (Irania), Isabelline Wheatear, Mocking Cliff-chat, Whitethroat, Spotted Flycatcher, Fiscal Shrike, Tacazze Sunbird, Pale Rock Finch, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, African Quailfinch, African Citril and Streaky Seed-eater. There is also some irrigated agricultural land just downstream of Radar Dam where there is a small resident population of Wattled Ibis. Acria is particularly worth a visit in February or March. There are lots of animal remains by the glue/soap processing factories here and large numbers of raptors congregate; I have counted roosts of up to 20 eagles in one tree!

Hagaz is the easiest town to get to in the western lowlands, and therefore is good for species associated with the Sudan-Guinea biome. Along the way, it is recommended that you stop off at the Elabered Agricultural Estate (between Asmara and Keren – separate permit needed, ask at the tourist office) where there are several dams, plenty of forest, and over 100 species can be seen in a day.

Filfil is an amazing enigma in an otherwise fairly dry and sometimes barren country. There is extensive cloud rainforest here that benefits from the wet seasons of both the highlands and the lowlands, and attracts a lot of tropical forest species as well as several of the Abyssinian endemics higher up. It is sometimes called ‘Semenawi Bahri’. It is accessed via a surfaced road that leaves the Asmara-Keren road at Serajeka and winds down the escarpment edge to meet the Asmara Massawa road at Nefasit. The two best places to stop are the recreation centres at Sabur (1300m) and Medhanit (1000m).
The scarce Abyssinian Woodpecker breeds at Sabur, and several other endemics can be found including White-cheeked Turaco, Banded Barbet, Black-winged Lovebird and Ethiopian Cisticola. Other species include: Lesser Kestrel, African Citril, Chiff Chaff, Grasshopper Warbler, Lesser Honeyguide, White Wagtail, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Long-legged Buzzard, Fan-tailed Raven, Tropical Boubou, Augur Buzzard, Variable Sunbird, Common Bulbul, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Streaky Seed-eater, Erckel's Spurfowl, African Citril, Brown-rumped Seed-eater, Red-eyed Dove, Baglefecht Weaver, Little Rock Thrush, Song Thrush, Mountain Thrush, Black-headed Batis, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Northern Puffback, White-rumped Babbler, (suspected Black-winged Lovebird, but not seen), Speckled Mousebird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Nubian Woodpecker, Banded Barbet and African Paradise Flycatcher.

Filfil Solomuna a little further down the valley can also be productive, although be sure to ask permission from the soldiers in the nearby camp before using binoculars or camara here and stick to the road.

Massawa and the Dahlak Islands for seabirds, shorebirds and coastal migrants:

The coastal town of Massawa is an incredible place to visit, for its history and architecture as much as for the birds. The best birdwatching sites are near the town, and include the small flats by the causeway to the mainland (at low tide), the beach at Gurgussum (10km north of Massawa), the shallow lagoons 4km north of Gurgussum and the mangrove forest on Green Island (boats can be hired from the Diving Centre or Mike’s Boats in Massawa). South of Massawa towards Foro there is more extensive mangrove forest, where the rare White-collared Kingfisher breeds, although birdwatching is not permitted around the Hirgigo power station. Exploring the Dahlaks takes longer, although boats can easily be chartered through travel agents in Asmara (Explore is one) or through the Dive Centre or Mike’s Boats in Massawa itself. 2 days are needed to visit the most interesting islands, and as well as the birds, there are plentiful dolphin species, dugong, leatherback turtle, whale shark and manta ray. Snorkelling and diving are both excellent here. Recommended islands include Dissei, Dahlak Kebir, Dahret and Dur ghella.

Organisations

Eritrea has a bird list of over 500 species but there has been little ornithological activity for some thirty or forty years. Sadly, long running disputes with Ethiopia and political instability have impacted habitat and species adversely as well as limiting opportunities for visiting birders. With little tourist infrastructure, Eritrea is likely to appeal to the more adventurous or pioneering birder. This small country can however be a rewarding destination for birders who in just a few days could see a substantial number of species, including many near endemics and regional endemics as well as countless passage migrants.

Trip Reports

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Ethiopia is rich in birds. Of ca. 1850 species found in Africa, a little less than 850 are recorded from Ethiopia, together with Eritrea. Although Tigray only covers 1/15 of the area of these two countries approximately 500 bird species can be seen here! It is not a coincidence that Tigray is rich in birds. The variety in habitats over a vast altitude range is large. Though there are birds that can be found almost everywhere, many bird species are adapted to live in different environments with their own specific geographical features and subsequently specific flora and fauna.

Eritrea is not well known as a birdwatching destination. But it should be. Despite being one of the most 'underbirded' countries in Africa, it has an impressive checklist of over 560 species, which is increasing rapidly. Ethiopia is famous as one of the best birding destinations in the world. Most highly prized are its Abyssinian 'endemics', many of which are in fact shared with Eritrea, as the Abyssinian Highlands are split between the two countries…

his comprehensive checklist includes all the species reliably recorded in Eritrea. We have kept it as close as possible to the sequence used in the field guide that visiting birders are most likely to use: Redman, Stevenson and Fanshawe: Birds of the Horn of Africa (Christopher Helm, 2009), following the order and taxonomy given in the checklist at the back of the book….

Seawater Farms Eritrea is unlike any farm ever built. Webegan its construction by cutting a huge channel from the Red Sea. This salt water river, wide enough for small boats, runs onto the land where it provides water to the land-based brick and concrete circles in which we raise our shrimp. It also fills the three salt lakes that hold the bulk of our fish and nurtures the thousands of mangroves that will shade its shores, irrigates our field crops, and finally drains into a seawater gardenparks that is also accessible to boating. This seawater gardenparks, forested by several varieties of mangroves, will shelter innumerable species of flora and fauna; herons, flamingos, and other shorebirds, marine animals of many kinds - and will provide controlled grazing for domestic animals like goats and camels.