Yesterday my Leaf would not charge at all with the Nissan L1 charger and would kick off after a few seconds with the L2 charger. The orange trouble symbol was lighted but went away after turning the car off and on. I had enough juice to get to a dealer so I left the car there.

They said there was no error codes set and it worked after they reflashed the Leaf. It worked fine yesterday and it is charging now as I write this. I really think the processor glitched. If it happens again I will try removing power.

Interesting. The problem Glenn had is a slightly different version of the problem. In mine and the OP, it was "no charge - no start". Glenn's was "no charge - but would start". Definitely some bugs in the charging system. I imagine that Nissan is overly cautious with the charging system until they get more experience with it.

I got in my 2012 to go to work but the ready light wouldn't light. Acted like my foot wasn't on brake.Took my ICE to work. I was concerned about Leaf's reliability.Thanks to the posts here and other topics I was able to troubleshoot my issue.First I tried a reboot / reset by disconnecting the negative cable. While I was waiting the 10 minutes I measured the 12v battery. Got about 9 volts. Tried to charge it but the needle gauge on charger was erratic. I put the cable back on and tried to start but now got a Can't find the key fob message. 12 v battery is no good. It's failure is not common. Normally one can charge a weak 12 volt back up to 12 volts. How long it holds the charge determines how quickly it needs to be replaced. This one was partially fried. Getting a jump was impossible.Next day go to AutoZone and buy the best one they got. Duralast Gold with 5 year . Ended up getting a $20 rebate.The guy at AutoZone gave me a funny look when I wanted a 12v battery for my electric car.Installed it in the Leaf without any issues. So nice that the terminals are not all corroded in the Leaf.Runs great now. I swear I'm getting better range.

The information in this forum is very informative and valuable. I considered towing it to the dealership. They would have charged me quite a bit for that battery and who knows what up sale stuff they would have tried.

Great to hear that you got your problem fixed with a reasonably small (under the circumstances) amount of hassle.

Disheartening to read yet another example of an engineering failure to "bring up the system" in a fashion that begins from a minimal set of verifiable resources, (like "this 12V supply that everything depends on: is it good-to-go?") and adds/enables capabilities only as they are verified to work.

PowayDon wrote:I got in my 2012 to go to work but the ready light wouldn't light. Acted like my foot wasn't on brake.

I saw this same exact behavior in my 2012 SL last week (after 4+ years and 53K miles). I've never seen it before. Got to work, charged up, moved my car around front at lunch time once it was done charging (so it worked fine then). When I came out to leave work it was just as if I was not touching the brake (note that this is NOT the same issue as the OP of this thread). Car refused to go to READY and I was getting the little icon to put my foot on the brake and hit the power button (it was going into ON state though). I can't quite recall, but the battery meter might have been blank and --- in the GOM (which I knew was wrong).

I went back to the office for a few minutes and then went back out and tried again and it started fine. Been working normally ever since, but I'm glad you posted because I will keep an eye on my 12V battery. As far as I know it's in good shape according to LEAFspy, but I haven't actually measured the voltage with a multimeter.