Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

2015 TRAPPS CLIFF PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE

Routes between and including the climb “MOONDANCE” (5.6) through to the climb “AFTER THE PRICK” (5.4) are closed as of March 25, 2015 and will remain in place until the fledging has been confirmed. This extends from the right side of the Slime Wall through the right side of Sleepy Hollow.

DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.

DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.

PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This great route is very popular, so plan ahead.

The Something Interesting access trail is about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. When the leaves are down, you'll spot the crack from the carriage road, and the access trail is just a few feet further. At the cliff, walk left to get to the start, below a long crack about 30' right of Three Pines.

P1: Follow a right-leaning finger crack to a bulge with a large reach, then surmount that to a ledge. There are several pitons to reassure you that you're in the right place.

P2: Continue up the crack and fun face above to the GT ledge. Gear anchor.

It's easy enough to link P1 and P2 in one 140' pitch to the GT - just bring lots of runners and gear. It's possible to rappel from the Three Pines bolts at the GT ledge (2 ropes, or 2 raps with 1 rope).

P3: Climb a left-facing dihedral behind the (missing) pine tree to a the larger right-facing dihedral above. Follow this to a bolt anchor. 5.7+, 90'.

Rap with one rope using the bolted stations between Three Pines and Something Interesting.

Note if you're wanting to set up a TR or top belay: the bolted station at the top of P1 doesn't work well for TR or top belaying; they are 20' to the left of the pitch. At the GT, there are giant rocks at the top of the P2 that you can sling for a top belay (and plenty of gear placements available).

It's funny, this route was very reminiscent of some 5.9+/5.10- routes in other areas. In any case, this climb is incredible. A few doubles in the #3-6 Rock range are useful, but not required. Do this route.

Great long climb, however above the crux a chunk of rock broke off (slightly larger than a softball). Be careful as I noticed other spots on the route with weak or rotten rock, including a large attached flake.

Couple of notes, the Grey Dick divides the climb into 2 pitches: P1 follows the crack all the way to the GT Ledge (140 feet), it really doesn't make sense breaking the pitch into 2, unless you want to talk your second through the crux #1. Oh, and there is no need to follow pitons - the route follows the most obvious crack - it can be seen from the carriage road. P2 goes up left facing corner, swings right onto the face, then traverses left to the right facing corner up to bolted anchors. The crux is just off the GT ledge but is protected by a pin. The traverse is unprotected, but is relatively easy, so if you have a nervous second it's better to protect your second with double ropes or they would come close to hitting the GT ledge.

There is a bolted anchor station on top of P2 (different from the Three Pines Anchor), 2 60M ropes will get you all the way to the ground. It doesn't look like the top pitch gets climbed too often, but if anything, the rappel itself is worth going all the way to the top, if you don't want to wait on a conga line at Three Pines.

Re climbing: I'm 5'5 and found the crux#1 way too reachy for me, so I backed off it. Even as a second it was challenging, but I think I figured out the move (for anyone shorter than 5'7 it's a full on 5.7++). Crux#2 is not that bad (if you find the secret hold - don't sandbag yourself into a 5.9-5.10 move like my partner did). P2 crux is very awkward and also very reachy, can't believe it's only 5.7!

Bring a full rack and enough slings and draws with the intent to do the route from the base to the GT ledge in one push. You will be pleased with yourself. Maybe a tad shorter than 140 feet. The pitch above the GT is a little dirty but worthy doing; quite different from the 1st. IMO, P1 is still still easier and less nervy than Drunkard's Delight.

While I am guilty of legendary whining about other routes being reachy - this is not one of them. That said, it might take a few trips up it to figure out the best sequence or holds for you - there are many ways to skin the cat, on both cruxes.

Ditto what jsh said about cat skinning. Not sure there is any need to reach.

BTW my PG13 rating is based on the second pitch (P3 as described above). Unless I missed something definitely kersplat potential for leader and a swinging smack into opposing face for second. I won't do it again.

Jammed a yellow C4 in as I left the GT ledge. Wasn't going to keep me off the belay ledge but would keep me from bouncing off and going further. Got pretty high up before getting anything else in. Felt I was in ledge fall zone pretty much from the first move. Don't recall a piton coming into play.

There is a pin on the right side of the dihedral, right by where you're supposed to exit onto the face. I also thought the start of the pitch was a bit uncomfortable even with the pin - even getting to it is kind of spicy - there is big boulder on the GT ledge right underneath so you can't just jump off if you had to.

I also would recommend the final pitch from the GT ledge. As long as the pin is good it is protected. The crux move is around the corner right above the pin. It is a cool, unusual move! The rest is just fun, with an easy but airy traverse and fun moves up the final corner. I found adequate pro for the traverse and then ample placements in the final corner.

I think the pitch above the gt ledge is a scary waste of time. It's a one-move wonder with serious groundfall potential. P1 is sweet, sweet, sweet. The 1st crux is the hardest, but i'm 5'6" and it was no big deal. As far as gear, I would say G for P1 and pg-13 for the crux move on p2. The pin on p2 can be backed up.

Best to link P1 and P2 and go straight to the GT ledge. I'm 5'3" and had no issues with reach. Bring lots of nuts. They were easier to place than cams in the shallow vertical crack. Save some 1-3" pieces for the anchor on the GT.

A variation question: On the GT ledge, we went just to the left (towards the bolted anchor for Three Pines) and climbed a short, steep roof that fed straight into the 2nd pitch dihedral for Something Interesting. It was fun, seemed to protect OK and felt moderate (I hesitate to even profess a ratings guess on a Gunks route!).

I cannot seem to find it in the Williams or Swain books, am I missing something?

Yikes, I missed the pin at the second crux. I was looking all around for it and it was gone! Stupidly, I didn't stop to place gear, I climbed through a couple more moves then placed some pro in a great horizontal. Lack of pin threw me off a bit!

nice long climb. the grade seems acceptable for the gunks in my opinion. if i was called 5.8 it would make sense too. its sustained but not a 5.9 no matter what anyone's friend's say. esp when thinking of some other nines of climbed at the gunks.

Did this again today. There are a lot of comments about the crux being reachy. I am 5'2" and I do not find the first or second crux reachy at all. This is a great climb with "G" rated pro all the way up to the GT ledge.

Did this guy yesterday. Placed a brown tricam somewhere before some move I wasn't sure about. My second and two other parties after us were unable to retrieve it. Seems that I left a permanent piece in something interesting. If you can get it out, it's yours. The route truly is something interesting.

The first crux took a while for me to sequence out. Definitely fair for the grade at the gunks.

I just did this route again after many years. Like many Gunks routes the rating should be according to height. The Gunks is full of horizontals and if you can reach the next horizontal jug it may feel like 5.7 but it you can't it may feel like 5.10.

So this is an approximation of the rating based on height, according to me, your mileage may vary. 6.2 ft 5.7 5.10 ft 5.8 5.6 ft 5.9 5.2 ft 5.10