Comstock's magazine 0818-August 2018 - Page 89

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ON A ROLL
When Chef Billy Ngo (above, filleting
yellowtail) opened Kru in 2005 he says he
enjoyed creating more complex dishes with
artistic plating. Today, he embraces simpler
dishes with high-quality ingredients, such
as nigiri — raw fish over vinegared rice —
at his Japanese restaurant, now located in
East Sacramento. “Each [type of fish] is
treated some way before serving,” he says.
“Either lightly cured, smoked, blanched,
torched, grilled or marinated.” Ngo likens
his culinary philosophy to an artform, “like
drawing or painting, but instead of different
colors, you’re using different flavors or
ingredients.” On the bottom right, he
finishes a piece of yellow jack (or shima aji)
nigiri with grated ginger and green onion;
on the left, he uses a butane torch to finish
a sea urchin nigiri with toasted seaweed.
“Try to eat nigiri in one bite — if it’s dressed
already, it’s meant to be a perfect bite,”
Ngo advises. “Sometimes the nigiri will be
seasoned with a little sea salt on one end
and lemon zest on the other, meant for
it all to mesh in your mouth.” Customers
who eat a single piece in multiple bites
miss out on the complete flavor profile. n
August 2018 | comstocksmag.com
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