User Reviews

My cruising experience has been a pattern of progression. My
first it was a weekend Bahamas cruise on Royal Carribean. After
watching the belly flop contest I learned about Celebrity's
promised "more upscale experience." It was then Millennium,
followed by an Azamara to Silversea.

My lady friend and I found a great 7 day Caribbean bargain and
decided to see if the "all inclusive" experience was worth all the
hype. I'll make this simple. Silversea, down to the slightest
detail up to the top is a marvelous experience. Onboard Silversea
Silver Spirit even the simplest quick lunch is first-rate. Speaking
of dining its consistently at the 4.5 - 5 star level in terms of
quality -the entire experience. The "suite" staterooms are just as
luxurious as the cruise line claims; marble sinks, tubs, and
flooring; impeccable bed and bedding; and the stateroomâ€™s
amenities.

Spirit is their "larger" ship but not even close to a mass
market sized. You'll see the same staff rotating around from
serving and tending position each day. Service is very personable
as youâ€™ll get to know the same crew youâ€™ll see every day. The
entertainment was varied and done well but

with a ship this size it was obviously limited compared to a mega
ship. If numerous entertainment venues are an important option for
your cruising experience you'd be on the wrong cruise line.

The greatest distinction of all inclusive cruising is the
wondrous absence and silence of the "chit chase". I must confess I
enjoy my libations during cruising. It is comforting to not have
the round trip chit delivery with the beaming face with pen in
hand. Not to mention the solace of very little sticker shock of the
"settlement statement" at the end of the cruise, and the tip
collection at the end as well -all that mostly gone. Itâ€™s very
nice.

Service is also an important expectation and cruising pleasure
for me. For example I would be dozing on an outdoor cushioned round
rattan chair. As soon as my eye lids parted I'd have an ice water
with lemon in front of me -instantly if not telepathically. In
short Silversea indubitably lives up to its touted claims of
elegance, quality and impeccable service.

But there is one aspect about our Spirit experience I want to
convey: the clientele aboard this ship. My girlfriend and I found a
7 day bargain â€“if you could call it that. Generally we would not
cruise a cruise line like this. We are both doing well and for the
most part were able to â€œfit inâ€. We had fun. But make no
mistake; most the cruisers we met and got to know are very well
made people. On any given evening the ladies were wearing
$5,000-$15,000 worth of stones and many of them wouldnâ€™t have any
problem adding that much to their jewelry box in one day either.
The men were probably lower key on the self-stature posturing. But
their wives wouldnâ€™t let you forget that at times when they were
together. These are CEOs, large business owners, and government
affiliated types a tad above city councilman. Personally I respect
success, am politically and geographically knowledgeable so I had
some interesting conversations while sitting at the bars. But after
5 or so days I felt like I was at the country club in the VIP
lounge with the same people daily. Also keep in mind that people of
this standing may not be jolly social butter flies or closing down
the dance floor â€“if the ship even offers it. Picture a senior
director for the IRS with an advanced degree in finance and you get
the gist. But I donâ€™t necessarily want to be on a mass market
cruise with kids running around everywhere and parties flying until
6AM either. After several days I found, at times, I was having more
fulfilling conversations with a couple of the bartenders.

Spirit is Silverseaâ€™s larger ship thatâ€™s trying to bring a
wider variety of ages aboard. But most were 50 . I am told their
smaller ships have a higher ratio of older cruisers aboard them.
Their ships are also suitable for the solo traveler that wants to
be left alone with a book but showered in exceptional service and
fine dining. All being said if an unforgettable luxurious cruising
experience is what you yearn for you will not be disappointed by
any of their ships.

I have cruised many times, but do not enjoy the "Bigger is
Better" theme personified by most of the cruise companies. I saw an
ad for huge reductions on Silver Seas last March and we took
advantage of the 75% reduction.

The cruise was an amazing experience. The Silver Spirit is their
newest ship,(2009) and holds 500 passengers and 375 crew. It is
advertised as 6* and does live up to its promise. We booked the
least expensive suite,(the Vista) on deck 2. This cabin does not
have a veranda, as 90% of the cabins do.

We were contacted one week before the cruise to see if we wanted
an"'upgrade"- for $1000.00 more.

AS a former travel agent, I was not familiar with this practice,
as to me and upgrade is just that, the passenger is upgraded at no
further cost.

Upon arrival at the pier, we had been upgraded to the 8th deck
and were situated right beside the Owner's Suite. Our cabin did not
have a balcony, but on this ship, it was not an issue, as the pool
deck was so close, on deck 9.

There were a couple on

glitches on this ship. Our shore excursion in Montenegro was
extremely poor and quite dangerous. We did bring this to the
attention of customer service and were redounded our money.

The decor of this ship was a bit disappointing. The colours to
me appeared dated, very 70's looking and the art was not
interesting.

However, everything else was amazing. The food was
delicious(except beside the pool) and the crew was wonderful. As we
had a $500.00 onboard credit, we enjoyed some amazing wine
suggested by the charming sommelier, Carl and shopped in the small
boutique.

The evening entertainment here was superlative. Angela and
Woody, in the lovely Stars lounge serenaded us to everything from
Cole Porter to Stevie Wonder and were the highlight of this amazing
cruise.

Personalized attention from our butler, Acula was much
appreciated.

Silverseas is a class act. We met the most amazing passengers
from all over the world. I cannot wait to take another Silverseas
cruise.

JANUARY 7-16 2012 From Fort Lauderdale to San Juan We arrived in
Fort Lauderdale on January 6th and spent the night at the Hampton
Inn Fort Lauderdale Airport North 2301 SW 12th. the Manager David
Blevins was actually driving a transportation van to pick us up.
The hotel also furnishes transportation to the port. The service
and food at this hotel was very good. The hotel furnished
transportation to some restaurants within a mile of the hotel. We
ate at the old Heidelberg German Restaurant that was very good. We
boarded the Silver Cloud around 12 noon without incident and hardly
any wait being entertained by the local energetic people working
the port. They were very hospitable. The Silver Cloud was built in
Italy in 1994 by Mariotti and refurbished in 2001. She looked
remarkably in good condition for her age. The 16, 800 GRT ship has
a capacity for 296 passengers that are carried in superb luxury.
She is 514 ft long and a 70 ft beam. She has 4 restaurants one pool
and four elevators. One never seems to have to wait very long for
an

elevator to traverse her 6 decks and no long waits in line at the
buffet.

We had two days at sea and then on January 10, stopped at
Spanish Town in Virgin Gorda British Virgin Islands. Columbus
discovered the islands in 1493 an archipelago consisting of some 60
small islets and rocky outcrops of which Tortola and Virgin Gorda
are the largest ones. The British took over in the 17th century and
still retain control to this day as a Crown Colony. The B.V.I have
a governor who is appointed by the Queen. This was a tender stop
and we took a ships sponsored tour in an open air safari type truck
that took us up to Gorda Peak and we had several beautiful view
stops on this wonderful day. We then descended down to Gun Creek
where we disembarked to get on a motor boat to tour around the Dog
islands named by Christopher Columbus. We had a view of Necker
Island owned by Sir Robert Branson. The main house burned down just
before his daughter was to be married, but they put up a tent and
had the wedding. BTW you can spend some time on the island for
$50,000/p/day. HA. We motored around Moskito island to the Baths
just sightseeing. We returned to Spanish town where we browsed the
shops and sat at a table to eat a snack and have a drink while we
watched people come and go. Jan noticed two young guys that seemed
to be getting supplies. Their dingy had Satori written on it. Copy
and paste the link. We did not see where the Yacht was.
http://www.superyachts.com/news/heesen-yachts-launch-motor-yacht-satori-1105.htm

Wednesday January 11 we arrived at Marigot Bay St.Martin and
used the tenders to go ashore. This is a much better stop for
St.Martin than at Phillipsburg where competition with the larger
ships can be difficult. We just spent time in Marigot having
decided not to go to Orient Beach on this visit. Jan did not want
to risk walking in the sand with her leg splint on the stress
fracture of the tibia. I did climb to the top of Fort Lewis using
several rest stops and did the round trip in about 45 minutes. Jan
limped around in her leg splint and did not let it slow down her
shopping. Marigot is on the French side of the Island and has a
more genteel ambience for some fashionable shopping and continental
flair. Ships drop anchor off shore and ferry passengers to Marina
Royale in the middle of Marigot where you can walk to any of the
downtown shops. There were many stalls set up along the wharf with
various goods to sell. St Martin remains a part of the European
Union.

Thursday January 12, we stopped at St.John's Antigua where I did
a Segway tour. Jan had decided not to do it since it was over
uneven surfaces and she already had a broken leg. Jan rode in the
chase car and took some video. I had done three previous Segway
tours, but fell off on this one. No serious damage to machine or
passenger. I was kind of standing looking for a parking place when
I ended up on the ground. Not sure what actually happened. I should
have just dismounted as soon as I got to the area where we were to
stop. Antigua is an island of beaches with 365 of them all open to
the public. We had previously visited Antigua spending a week and
done the Nelson's Dockyard thing, and Shirley Heights for a sunset
and BBQ. We had visited the Devil's bridge natural rock formation
where slaves were reported to jump to their deaths when their lives
became unbearable. This trip after bringing Jan back to the ship, I
just hired a cab and rode out to Dickenson bay to see how nice it
was and yearned to visit the Sandals again. Same old story. If you
are on the ship you want to be ashore and if you are ashore you
want to be on the ship.

Friday January 13, we were in Castries, St. Lucia. We used Cosol
tours and Yellowbird, Cosol's brother gave us a very good tour for
$65/person. He took us all over the island through fishing
villages, and then to Jalousie Beach arriving by water taxi since
the Jalousie property controls all the other accesses to the beach,
but cannot prevent people from coming on the beach from the sea.
This beach was between the famous Pitons of St.Lucia. We had beer
and Rum punch in our travelling portable bar and several snacks. We
visited the Botanical Gardens and later had some Hot bread and
cheese. We stopped at a local store for samples of spiced rum and
of course buying a few bottles along with some Banana Catsup. They
make many things in the Caribbean with bananas. I think this was
the day the news broke about the sinking of the Costa ship and
Friday the 13th turned out to be an unlucky day for those involved.
St. Lucia has suffered through the years from Hurricanes I think
the latest was Thomas that brought 1/2 a mountain down on a family
of 5.

Saturday January 14, we were in Roseau, Dominica where we met
Levi Baron of bumping tours who took us around the Island and we
did the Aerial tram right through the forest being below the canopy
most of the time . Since 75% of Dominica is a rain forest we
thought an Aerial tram through it for 70 minutes would be a good
idea. This is also where one can do the Zip line over Breakfast
River Gorge. I did walk across the bridge across the gorge, and it
was pretty stable. This Aerial Tram through a Rain forest is one of
only two available in the Caribbean area. The other is in Costa
Rica. I think St.Kitts has a Zip line tour. The roads in Dominica
are improving since our last visit, but it takes a driver that
knows where all the pot holes are to give a good ride. Levi is well
worth any fees. On a previous trip we had used Bumping tours with
my family so we were familiar with Levi Baron. We were able to
bring Levi and his wife aboard the Silver Cloud for a visit. I have
not been able to do this on other ships.

Sunday January 15 we stopped in Basseterre, St.Kitts where we
met Royston a 38 year old very young looking gentleman that gave us
a great tour around what I think may be the most beautiful of the
Caribbean Islands. The views he showed us were magnificent and we
didn't have to walk. We went up to Brimstone Hill and Royston would
drive and position the vehicle so that I could look out the window
and take pictures without getting out. We even drove along the
water's edge and actually into the water so he could demonstrate
how hard the black sand was and we did not get stuck in just an
ordinary two wheel drive van. When he took off on a side road
later, climbing at about a 40 deg angle, Jan took a deep breath,
but Royston knew what he was doing and he went up the top of the
mountain like a mountain goat to where the water tank was and gave
us a magnificent view of the beautiful Marriott Hotel on St.Kitts
and of the Caribbean sea and shore line.

We arrived in San Juan on January 16th and had cancelled the
previously arranged Segway tour. This is where we had done our
first Segway tour and had planned to repeat it since we enjoyed it
so much last time. Since we survived the Antigua Segway without too
much damage we just went to the airport after a wonderful in suite
breakfast of Eggs Benedict and Cappuccino. Our flight back was just
tiring but uneventful. The food on the Silver Cloud is the best and
the service is impeccable. Jan says that this butler was the best
we have had. Women seem to know these things. Breakfast in the
suite was always on time and hot. Lunches were excellent and were
as good as they looked. The dinners were wonderful and fixed to
perfection. We never stood in a line for food except at the galley
lunch when everyone showed up. This was not a long line and seemed
to move very fast. At any other time no lines. We ate under the
stars by the pool with a sit down dinner. This required
reservations because of the limited tables but was one of the best
eating experiences we have had. Of course all beverages are
complimentary and in room drinks are also supplied. The
entertainment aboard was excellent and after their show the
entertainers would carry the show into the main bar dance floor and
get everyone jumping and dancing. Who says Carnival is the party
ship. The short time us older folks could last was a blast.
Unfortunately if my Eagle is going to fly the next day, my Owl has
to stop hooting at a decent hour.

When I boarded I had to wait 30 minutes to enter my stateroom as
it wasn't ready for me. On disembarking I was to fly Delta 0133 at
11.20 am from Athens. The Guest Relations Officer insisted I use
the chartered bus at 8.45 am (which didn't leave until 9.00am).
There was a massive traffic jam and the result was I missed the
Delta flight. There was nobody from Delta or SSeas to help except
they told SSea (but not me) they had made a flight and hotel
booking for the next day as an excuse for not paying the air ticket
I had to purchase to fly home. First class cruise line?????

Report on Silver Whisper Cruise October 14-24, 2010 New York
City to Barbados We flew to New York City and spent two nights
pre-cruise and finally used the time to visit the Intrepid Museum.
We spent five hours there and were really tired after, but it was
well worth the effort.

SILVER WHISPER CRUISE SHIP.

October 14, we boarded the Silver Whisper about 12 noon in spite
of the suggested time of 3:00 PM. Our Luggage was in our cabin and
we had lunch. We explored the ship and found it to be in great
shape. The Silver Whisper is one of the Silversea (an Italian
Company) ships. Registry is in the Bahamas. The builder was
Mariotti, and it was built in Italy completed on July 2, 2001. The
ship's capacity is 382 with a crew of 295. The ship has a gross
tonnage of 28,258 and an average speed of 21 knots. It is 610 feet
long, 81 feet wide, has 7 passenger decks and 194 outside rooms. It
supports four restaurants and has five elevators. It seems like I
did not ever have to wait on an elevator over

20 seconds.

We had cabin 828 selected by my travel agent and it turned out
to be a great choice. Deck 8 has the pool deck and a bar that is
open 9:00 AM until. It was 20 steps from our room. If you are a
pool person this is the deck to be on. The one elevator amidships
seemed to be adequate on this ship. There were four aft in the
areas that had more activity and the area to disembark the ship. We
never waited very long for an elevator on this ship anywhere. It
was easy to get to deck 10 by elevator and get some coffee in the
observation lounge. Of course there was excellent room service
which my wife used everyday for coffee. We did not do the in room
dining since it was much more fun to be in one of the dining areas.
Deck 4 aft was the main dining area and if you were on deck 5 you
were close to reception and only one down to dining. The Casino and
the Grappa Bar (opened late) were on deck 5 along with the shops.
This is an all inclusive cruise and I found the drinks to be very
adequate serving the best liquor. I did find however that the wine
was poor choice for me, but that could be because I like cheaper
wines. I did not like the wine aboard. The specialty restaurant (le
Champagne) aboard was not good for us, but it could have been
because we picked the wrong night. Each night has a fixed menu in
several courses. The wine and champagne served were just not to my
taste.

The service was the best that I have had after 41 cruises. The
food was as good as on any other ship I have been on and better
than most. The wait times for special cooked eggs was nothing and
you did not have to wait at the cooking station. You just told the
cook what you wanted and he fixed it the way you liked it and had
it delivered to your table. We always ate in the le Terraza
restaurant which was the buffet style. The buffet was never
crowded. It was like the buffet was there just for you. The main
restaurant was reported to be a little slower for breakfast. The
service certainly could not have been any better. One special main
restaurant buffet style “Galley Brunch” was spectacular and held in
the main dining room. They laid out the food in the kitchen so you
got a tour of the kitchen while you went through a beautiful
display of food which was very tasty also. The shrimp made a
magnificent part of the display and I had shrimp every day.

The night of the first day of cruising was quite a roll. As they
say the ship will move. My wife and I both took a scopace tablet
(scopolamine) and went to bed. We found that laying crossways in
the queen size bed was better than laying length wise and we faired
the night quite well. The next day we had a much better weather and
the rest of the cruise was quite smooth.

Our first port of call was BERMUDA and we were supposed to stop
at St.George. The captain decided that the wind was too high to get
through the narrow passage to the harbor of St. George and we
docked at the British Naval Dockyard. We had pre-arranged a taxi
for St. George and he met us at the Naval Dockyard and we toured
the entire island so we got to St. George and Hamilton in addition
to the Dockyard. Colin Jennings our taxi driver gave a three hour
tour for $40/hr for the four of us. He said that a basic home in
Bermuda cost one million dollars. Bermudians paid no income tax,
but import taxes were high and this was passed on to the
consumer.

Bermuda is an archipelago of islands connected by causeways and
bridges. There about 22,000 square miles and have a population of
65,000. Bermuda has very strict immigration laws. Visitors cannot
rent a car and can only go on their own using the mopeds. The
largest business in Bermuda is the re-insurance business in which
insurance companies insure other insurance companies. They pay no
income tax so it is beneficial for them to do business here.
Bermuda doesn't produce anything for export but does grow a few
fruits, but not enough to export. We spent the night in Bermuda and
the next day (Sunday) we toured around the Naval Dockyard area
which was not that much to see and do, but nice shopping areas and
we ate a very nice meal at the Bone fish Grill.

We had two days of smooth sailing to San Juan and played our
Joker Poker game with friends and boys beat girls 9 games to 5.

Arriving at SAN JUAN I had pre arranged a Segwey tour. None of
us had ever been on a Segway before and we got our instructions and
found it to be very easy to do. We thoroughly enjoyed our two hour
tour out to Fort Morro and it beat walking. They don't have that
many Segways so it seemed best to pre-arranged this tour for the
four of us. It worked out to $90/p for the two hours, but a 10% tip
was given because of the expert treatment we received. I would
definitely recommend this tour www.segwaytouyspr.com My wife and I
found a very nice P.R restaurant behind the Sheraton Hotel for an
authentic Puerto Rican meal. San Juan is a great city to visit, and
I would recommend that one stay in old town to enjoy the full
effect of the culture.

The port of Gustavia, St. Barts was cancelled because of
flooding there and we substituted ST.MARTEN (SXM). We however
anchored in Marigot bay and tendered in rather than go to
Phillipsburg dock and tangle with the Soltice and its traffic. We
went to Orient Beach and spent the day at KAKAO restaurant area.
Round trip $12/p. We then did some local shopping in Marigot before
catching the tender back aboard. We stayed in St. Martin until 12
midnight because we had a wonderful barbecue around the pool aboard
ship and being stationary we didn't have to contend with wind
around the pool We couldn't have found better entertainment
anywhere in St. Marten. We had a Latino show put on by the dancers
around the pool with a manufactured stage using a backdrop.

Our next port was ST.JOHN'S ANTIGUA. Having been there several
times in the past years we hired a taxi for a ride to Devil's
bridge and the long bay area. We also had a look at Dickenson bay
since we heard there had been some damage, but it looked to be in
good shape. We past by to check on the Blue Waters hotel which was
in good repair. There is a new Sandals on Dickenson bay right next
to the old one. Apparently both are still functioning. Sandals on
Dickenson Bay in Antigua would be a very nice place to spend a
week. The Royal Antiguan a property on Deep Bay, that we had spent
a week in 1994 had gone into some disrepair. The old Jaws
restaurant on Deep Bay where the sunset was so magnificent as you
dined in the evening was out of business and only used for private
parties.

BEQUIA, GRENADINES was our next port of call. Bequia is a small
island in the Grenadines measuring just seven square miles and is
home to about 5000 people. It is just above Grenada in the Eastern
Caribbean windward islands group. Independence from Great Britain
was in 1979. The capital of the Grenadines is St.Vincent just
across a small section of water 15 min by boat as long as the waves
remain calm. The only thing about taking a ferry ride away from
your cruise stop island is that if the waves kick up you might get
stuck on that island and miss your cruise ship. There are several
very pretty beaches on Bequia and quaint waterfront bars. Port
Elizabeth is the main town and we disembarked there and met up with
our taxi driver Noel Olivierre with his open air taxi. This
actually was very nice in that it gave a good opportunity for
photography from the back of the truck and was cool as the breezes
flowed through. We remembered that this was the same type of
transportation as in Papeete,Tahiti and Kirimati (Christmas) Island
in the South Pacific used for touring. We stopped at a quaint
little restaurant bar with a three room hotel. One would have to
know it was there to find it. It had a quaint little small beach
associated with it.

We went up to Hamilton fort to overlook Admiralty Bay and Port
Elizabeth and then later went to Sargent's Model boat shop. One
boat that was a replica of a yacht was commissioned for $5,000 by
the owner of the yacht.

We visited Mr.King's turtle farm where he is raising Green and
Hawksbill turtles. He is trying to help save the endangered sea
turtle species. He said there are seven species of sea turtles.
Bequians hunt the turtles for the shells and it was much more
popular before they came out with the plastic shells. It is hard to
maintain a species when only one out of 3000 will live to maturity
after birth in the wild, so he is trying to improve the odds. He
raises the turtles until they are full grown and releases them. He
has permission to find the eggs on the beach and protect them.

Our final port was BARBADOS for disembarkation which went off
very well. We hired a cab to gives us a 2 hour tour on the way to
the airport and we went to the Crane Beach Hotel complex to have a
look around. We had previously visited Crane Beach at a private
home and could see the hotel, so we used the time to visit the
hotel. The Crane Beach gets its name from a crane that was on the
beach and used to unload cargo. Now you might see a statue of a
crane in the lobby of the hotel. Crane beach has been listed as the
17th most beautiful beach in the world by the beach raters from a
Travel Channel program. The hotel turned out to be more of a maze
of little cottages than an actual hotel, but had a beautiful beach
and an elevator to get down to the beach. The beach is under a high
cliff that the hotel is built on. It was a good trip and no unusual
problems. This cruise had more British than any other nationality
aboard.

The down side of this cruise was I didn't like the wine on the
entire cruise and didn't enjoy the specialty restaurant le
Champagne. The Millennium class of Celebrity cruise ships has some
cabins with 270 degree veranda views and that is the only thing I
could see that would keep me with Celebrity if I was doing a Fjord
Norway, Chilean Fjords, or Alaska Cruise. Otherwise the service and
food in general on the Silver Whisper was far better than on a
Celebrity cruise ship.

Filtering through all the brightly-colored and smartly-marketed
brochures, and investigating the where to go and what to do on a
cruise vacation is quite a lot of fun. I always envision
destinations afar, and most times we choose the destination first,
and hope for the best on the ship facility part to fill that
destination agenda.

The ordinary was not the case this year when reaching out for
excellence – There would be no compromises, no excuses, just the
finest service and amenities. Every itinerary Silversea Cruises
offered seemed embraced by a lavish layer of distinction. In our
case, the final Silversea choice was to an area we had longed to
visit. This fulfilled our vacation wish-list, blending both our
dream itinerary with extraordinary service and elegance.

My wife Carol and I received a shipment some weeks later with
our packet of reservation documents and we knew that our cruise on
the Silversea ship Silver Cloud would be an exceptional experience.
From the moment we opened the elegant leather voucher-case, which
was packed with personal and distinctive luggage tags, and a new
vacation expectation level ensued. From that moment on we sensed
the welcome

mat of elegance offered by Silver Cloud – we could hardly wait!

ITINERARY: I envisioned writing and recounting of our
captivating itinerary aboard the distinctive Silver Cloud in the
Baltic Sea. I could go on at length about the enticing ports in
Northern Europe. However, it was the allure of this top quality
vessel that must first be emphasized as I briefly describe this
voyage.

We embarked in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Flying in early is a
comfort with today's busy pace with airlines, and Silversea's staff
can help your travel agent arrange lodging and transfers.

By arriving early, we enjoyed an engaging but leisurely day in
Amsterdam, a city to be savored for its world famous museums and
the special charms of her canals. This also allowed time to
decompress from traveling before boarding Silver Cloud – We did not
want to board bleary-eyed and jet-lagged.

Our first cruise stop was Tallinn, Estonia. Its old town of
medieval architecture is as wonderful as those in Germany or the
South of France. Estonia is a country quite proud to be out of the
Soviet domain. Then we were on to St. Petersburg, Russia for two
glorious days of exploring the Hermitage Museum, the opulent gilded
Peterhof Palace, Catherine's Palace and others. From Russia we
sailed onward to historic Helsinki, Finland.

A special city came next, Stockholm, Sweden where beautiful tiny
islands link together to form one of the loveliest cities on earth.
Last and not least was Hans Christian Anderson's enchanting and
immaculate Copenhagen, Denmark. But, I won't go on and on, for on
this cruise we found that our ship was to be a destination in and
of itself. Does it seem possible that a ship, its crew, and
services could account for such feelings of vacation
completeness?

But, though this was a most remarkable itinerary, the ships of
Silversea generally do not stay fixed on one itinerary. They move
on to new and wondrous places around the globe visiting peoples and
places on nearly every continent. I want to convey that what came
to be our most loved destination of choice each day was the Silver
Cloud herself. The ship was a haven that we were eager to return to
and share stories of the day with our many new friends.

SILVER CLOUD: The sleek white ship is 16,800 tons at 514 feet in
length, and can carry 296 passengers. This is a comfortable number
even when dinner time arrives. You get to know fellow passengers in
a relaxed, open-seating atmosphere in one of the two available
dining locations. Open seating affords the freedom to dine with the
people you meet for the first time or prior friends – how
delightful!

CABINS: The striking differences between a Silversea cruise
vacation experience and the larger more typical ships are many, but
they start with the amount of personal cabin space that is standard
on this all-suite, all-outside cabin luxury ship. Differences begin
with the suite arrangement at a generous 250 sq. feet, and goes up
to the impressive multi-roomed Silver Suite at 541 sq. ft., an
Owner's Suite. with two bedrooms at 827 sq. ft, the Royal Suite at
1031 sq. ft. with two bedrooms, and finally, the palatial Grand
Suite, a 1300 sq. ft., two bedroom, lavish accommodation with all
the amenities that a ship's captain or a captain of industry might
require.

Our cabin was the introductory size suite. We did have a
balcony, and most of the suites aboard Silver Cloud do. If you are
in a climate and itinerary that would avail the use of a balcony,
why not enjoy this pleasure for a modest additional charge? The
suite was essentially two rooms, one a sitting and dining area, the
other a bedroom. Draperies may be utilized to separate the two
areas if you desire. Appointments in fine wood and attractive art
gave the suite a sense of refinement.

We enjoyed breakfast in the suite four of our nine days aboard
the Silver Cloud, and we dined elegantly with fine linens in our
suite three special romantic evenings. No effort was spared by the
room service staff to extend that feeling of gracious attention to
detail. Both the main dining room and the standard and quite
comprehensive room service menu were available in our suite.

Beverages of choice were always available, and the maid gladly
stocked our personal preferences in our suite's mini-fridge. An
excellent list of wines and beers was included in your cruise costs
for those with a potent-potable palate.

It is not customary for us to rave about a ship bathroom, but
when you have fine marble, a full tub with shower, and Bvlgari
toiletries –a mention is obligatory! A huge walk in closet had
thick plush bathrobes and slippers waiting for our in-suite
comfort.

CUISINE: While Silver Cloud roams about the latitudes and
longitudes of the world, guest's gastronomic pleasures are
enhanced, as her menu evolves to reflect the culinary delights and
specialties of the current region.

When Carol and I stepped into The Restaurant we knew we had
arrived for a very special dining experience. The Restaurant is
elegant, but not stuffy, the staff is attentive and personable, but
not hovering, and they are quietly - ever-watchful of your favorite
foods, drinks, and habits, with a goal of meeting these personal
requirements. Catering to individual taste and preference is what
distinguishes the ordinary from the exceptional cruise
experience.

Then came the main event, which were inspired dishes created by
Silversea's Master Chefs. The dishes were complemented by those of
La Collection du Monde, and created by the world-class chefs of
culinary partner Relais & Châteaux. The menu was marked by
innovation and creativity. I feel certain that most patrons will
delight in these epicurean creations, and a dining experience that
rivals the best restaurants the world over.

ABOUT SHIP: You might dress for a workout in the well-equipped
gym, or visit the Mandara Spa for that special attentive massage,
or the full array of services designed to enhance your vacation
relaxation. Mandara is a Sanskrit legend translated to signify, a
search for a magical elixir to promote extended life and beauty.
The staff caters to Silver Cloud guests in the quest for these
ultimate experiences while aboard.

Once you have been sufficiently pampered in the Mandara Spa, and
you have done your daily gym workout, then perhaps a cool drink of
your choice while lazing around the pool is the perfect way to
enjoy the passing scenery. Again, all drinks except special or more
exotic beverages are included in your cruise rate. Also included
are all tips – Guests on the Silver Cloud need not worry of daily
issues other than simply enjoying this experience.

Silversea Cruises celebrates its 10th anniversary of providing
unexcelled service worldwide. We noted on our cruise that many
guests were repeat clients - because they appreciated the high
level of service and quality. It was their ultimate vacation and
they had come to love and enjoy Silversea's superior quality of
relaxation and service.

ACTIVITIES: There were varied ship activities tailored to suit
the clientele, ranging from exercise classes, lectures on various
topics, and shore briefings. Trivia, scrabble tournaments, and the
ping pong invitational brought out those looking for activity. A
good book or movie would get the attention of still others. It is a
vacation and the choices are many and varied. The richly decorated
and well stocked library always had followers, as did the various
lounges, and a favorite spot was, of course, the Internet Café.

TO ADJUST: To come up with valid criticisms on the world's
premier recognized six star cruise line only makes one think of
more positive things…like the gourmet coffee, outstanding room
stewardesses, and dining and room service personnel – so this is
challenging.

If I proposed change from our entire nine days onboard the
Silver Cloud it would be that they raise the television position
twenty to twenty-four inches in the standard suites, and this could
be easily accomplished. It is difficult to view the programming or
news from bed – I know, a really picky criticism and minor
inconvenience, but I do feel this to be a positive suggestion and
improvement to a nearly-perfect ship, suite, and vacation
experience.

My only other proposal would be to begin the single-seating
dining at 7PM rather than at 7:30PM. This would allow entertainment
to be scheduled at 9:45PM, a seemingly more inviting time than the
usual 10:30PM. I feel that more guests would be inclined to stay up
after their busy day of such exhausting luxury and personal
attention and would be less likely to miss the fine shows and
entertainers. It is impossible to savor all that is available, but
a bit of schedule tweaking might be helpful.

OVERVIEW: For many Silversea patrons perfection has become a
standard for their vacation. Those who are new to the Silversea
ambiance are seeking that incomparable way to celebrate an
anniversary, wedding, or merely life itself. A Silversea vacation
cruise aboard the Silver Cloud may alter your personal expectations
and overall concept of vacationing and cruising.

We think you will savor the experience and create exceptional
memories that will last a lifetime. My guess is that once will not
be enough. You will dream of once again standing forward on a
dazzling star-lit evening as the prow of a Silversea ship plies
distant seas for new adventures and faraway horizons.

When our friends heard that we would spend our March, 2008,
vacation on the Silver Cloud in the Persian Gulf, their first
question was "Why Dubai?" and their second question was "Why
Silversea?"

The first question is easy to answer. The Middle East is
changing faster than any other part of the world. I am not talking
about the destruction of Iraq (and our economy with it). I am
talking about the construction of ultra-modern Arab emirate cities
with enviable infrastructures and booming economies.

Imagine Walt Disney building a clean and modern Manhattan
skyline in the middle of the desert. Add the traffic of Los
Angeles, the beachfront of Miami, and the glitz of Las Vegas. Toss
in the best shopping malls, the most exotic real estate
developments, the tallest building, and the most expensive hotel in
the world. Mix in 6 million visitors a year and you have an idea of
what Dubai is like today.

And Dubai is just one of five Arab emirates (plus Iran) that we
visited on our cruise. The oil in some emirates is already drying
out, so they are turning to free trade, international finance, and
tourism

to secure their future. We wanted to see it all before it was too
late -- too late for our dollar, not their dirham.

The second question "Why Silversea?" is a bit more complex. We
took our first luxury cruise on the Silver Whisper two years ago.
It was a short cruise in the Caribbean, and to be honest, it did
not meet our expectations (my review of that cruise may be
available on this web site). Perhaps it was because we expected too
much or perhaps it was because a four-day cruise sandwiched between
private charters was too short for the crew to do their jobs really
well. In any case, we decided to give Silversea another chance, and
we are glad we did. We thoroughly enjoyed our Silver Cloud cruise
in the Persian Gulf.

This review is a detailed summary of our Silver Cloud
experience. Keep in mind that a luxury cruise is an investment of
more than $10,000 per couple once airfare, pre-cruise hotel, and
sightseeing are included, even when the pre- and post-cruise
arrangements are made independently in economy and tourist class.
Because a cruise like this is a major investment for most of us,
this review is intended to give you extensive details to help you
get a feeling whether a luxury cruise might be right for you.

Because of the length of this review, I will HIGHLIGHT various
topics in all caps so that you can skim down to your own areas of
special interest.

DISCLAIMER Please keep in mind that what follows are my personal
observations. I am not in the travel business and I am not a cruise
expert. If there are errors, I apologize in advance. Rely on your
own reading and experience to form your own opinions, and you will
end up choosing the right cruise style and cruise ship for
yourself.

A GOOD BOOK In addition to cruise web sites, some of which seem
to be losing speed and functionality because of their cluttered
home pages and excessive advertisements, I highly recommend Douglas
Ward's book Complete Guide to Cruising and Cruise Ships (2007,
Berlitz). It has a wealth of information, both objective and
subjective, to help you plan your next cruise.

PART 1: LUXURY CRUISING IN GENERAL Everyone has his own idea of
the perfect cruise. In the end, it probably is the cruise that
makes a guest feel like a VIP and yet totally at ease. White glove
service and high tea may not suit someone who prefers to amble in
flip-flops and a T-shirt. Zodiac excursions and watersport decks
may not suit someone who prefers to foxtrot in formal wear. That is
probably why there are so many luxury (and luxury adventure) cruise
options.

I mention luxury and adventure cruising in the same breath
because the costs may be similar even though the styles are worlds
apart. An interesting development in the luxury cruise industry is
that some of the traditional luxury cruise lines are adding
expeditionary ships (think ice-hardened hulls and polar
itineraries) to their fleets. You will be reading more about these
ships as they enter service. So far, our experience with adventure
cruising has been limited to chartered yachts in the Galapagos
Islands, so I will not cover that option here.

DEFINING LUXURY For me, several characteristics define a luxury
cruise: the high level of attentive yet unobtrusive service;
superior cuisine and fine wines without surcharge; sedate and
spacious cabins and public areas; unusual itineraries with
uncrowded or even undiscovered ports of call; the absence of noise,
announcements, and waiting lines; enrichment lectures and
interesting activities, with less emphasis on entertainment and
more emphasis on learning; inclusive drinks and gratuities; and (we
have been happy to experience) well-educated, friendly, and
unpretentious fellow passengers.

SERVICE On mainstream cruise ships the service may sometimes be
attentive, but it can sometimes seem informal and too chummy. Some
luxury ships have a more traditional attitude toward service. We
noticed that after the first day on the Silver Cloud our stewards
and servers greeted us by surname, but they did not converse
further unless we wanted to engage them in conversation. They
anticipated most of our needs, and they responded quickly and
positively when we had any questions or special requests. On a
personal note, my wife was recovering from an illness during our
Silver Cloud cruise, and she truly appreciated the kindness and
attentiveness of the entire staff.

Good service during meals is silent and seamless. Courses are
presented and cleared without flourish, and wine glasses are
changed or refilled without intrusion. The service is so smooth
that it is not noticeable. Part of this is due to good training,
and part is due to the high crew to passenger ratios on luxury
ships. Silversea, for example, has at least two crew members for
every three passengers. The smaller size of the dining rooms and
public areas adds to the quality of the service. There is no
background noise to interfere with conversations, and servers very
skillfully handle china and flatware to avoid making noise.

SPACE Space ratios are a measure of the volume of enclosed space
on a ship, expressed in tonnage per passenger. In this case tonnage
is a measure of volume, not weight. Mainstream cruise lines usually
have space ratios in the high 30s or low 40s. Except for the
smallest (Sea Dream and Seabourn) ships in this category, luxury
ships generally have space ratios in the 50s or 60s. Silversea's
newer ships, the Whisper and the Shadow, have space ratios in the
70s. When cruising this difference is very noticeable.

EXOTIC ITINERARIES Small luxury ships travel the world and are
able to dock at unusual ports that have not yet been overrun by
oversized cruise ships. This can be a negative, however, when
inexperienced local immigration authorities make life difficult, or
when the cruise line's central office is less than organized
regarding visa or entry requirements for their exotic ports of
call. Silversea's disorganization in this regard was a
disappointment, but more about that later.

PEACE AND QUIET Perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of a luxury
cruise is the peace and quiet in the ship's public areas. For
example, there is no pool-side music (except on special occasions),
and the fitness area is equipped with headphones for the DVD
players and TVs at each workout station. There is no muzak and
there are minimal announcements. On mainstream cruise ships I
sometimes end up wearing earplugs to gain some peace and quiet. On
luxury ships this is unnecessary.

ENTERTAINMENT Because luxury ships are relatively small,
entertainment tends to be intimate, usually soloists rather than
production numbers. Personally, I would rather listen to a
top-notch soloist in a small venue than watch a chorus line of
singers and dancers in an over-amplified Broadway-type theater.
Luxury ships tend to include enrichment programs, usually well
known speakers on a variety of topics. Fortunately, mainstream
cruise lines are finally adopting similar enrichment programs,
which can make days at sea more enjoyable. A bonus on a small ship
is the likelihood of meeting or dining with the guest lecturers and
musicians, who can be very interesting conversationalists. They
were on our cruise.

FELLOW PASSENGERS Yes, some luxury cruise passengers are very
rich (on our cruise one big game hunter expressed his need for a
Marco Polo sheep to make his trophy collection complete, and one
car enthusiast wore his Ferrari-owners logo shirt), but most
passengers are simply well-off, having saved wisely during their
hard-working careers. Unlike private country or social clubs,
wealth and status do not seem to be an issue on these cruises –
fellow passengers are friendly and unpretentious. Dinner
conversations can be the highlight of each day, since passengers
come from such varied backgrounds. On mainstream cruises my wife
and I often request a table for two. On luxury cruises we prefer to
be seated at a large table because of the very interesting
conversations.

SIZE Ship size and space ratios seem to be the greatest
variables among luxury vessels. These ships range from small
(100-400 passengers) such as Sea Dream, Europa, Seabourn, and
Silversea; medium (400-800 passengers) such as Regent Seven Seas:
large (800-1200 passengers) such as Crystal; and very large such as
Cunard's Queen Mary 2 (2,600 passengers).

Some travelers feel that the former Renaissance vessels
currently sailing with Oceania and Azamara are medium-sized luxury
ships, but others prefer to categorize them as "deluxe" rather than
luxury because of the smaller size of their cabins: 216 sq. ft.
standard balcony cabins, 160 sq. ft. inside cabins, and some 143
sq. ft. obstructed-view outside cabins (10 sq. ft. approximately
equal one sq. meter). Some feel that the very large ships of Cunard
are hybrids with more than one level of food and service, and only
their "grill class" qualifies as luxurious. Oceania, Azamara, and
Cunard can be excellent options, however, when lower prices
compensate for differences in cabin size or level of service.

THE FUTURE Luxury cruise lines are adding new-builds to their
fleets. These new ships seem to show "bracket creep" and are larger
than their older sister ships, perhaps because larger ships are
more profitable to operate. Personally I regret this development,
since I find the intimacy and personal attention of a smaller ship
among the most enjoyable aspects of luxury cruising.

Whether the current economic downturn affects the luxury cruise
market remains to be seen. Affluent passengers may be relatively
insulated from market cycles, and luxury cruise prices may remain
steady or may even increase in spite of a faltering economy. It is
too soon to tell.

One thing that is likely is that small luxury ships will "follow
the money". That means more cruises in the "euro zone" where the
currency is not under the same downward momentum as the US dollar.
After all, what cruise line wants to book a trip in dollars only to
have the value of those dollars erode during the months between
contracting and cruising? Perhaps the euro will become the
shipboard currency on more ships in the future. Certainly the
strength of the euro and the pound sterling means that European
cruisers are getting a de facto discount that Americans are not. As
a result, Americans accounted for fewer than 25% of the passengers
on our cruise, the first time we have been in such a small minority
on any of our twenty previous cruises.

HEALTH AND SAFETY A lesser known and perhaps just theoretical
advantage of small luxury ships involves health and safety.
Norovirus and more serious disease outbreaks begin with an index
case and spread quickly in areas where people live and eat in close
quarters. It seems logical that the risk of a disease outbreak
would be much lower on smaller ships with fewer passengers.

Similarly, a small ship should be easier to re-route in case of
terrorism or political turmoil, and easier to evacuate in case of
an accident or fire. The latter may seem far-fetched, but cruise
ships have run aground, been attacked by sea pirates, experienced a
major fire, and have even sunk in the last few years. Again, these
considerations are theoretical and are just as dependent on the
training and ability of the cruise line administration and crew as
on the size of the ship. A disorganized central office or an
under-trained crew can theoretically negate the small ship
advantage.

COST Price is probably the major factor for most travelers when
considering a luxury cruise. I have not researched prices recently,
but it is my impression that true luxury cruises are priced around
600-700 US dollars per person per day (pppd) for the least
expensive cabin category (an outside suite, which may not include a
balcony on some cruise lines such as Silversea), although discounts
to $500 pppd seem reasonably common, and discounts to $400 pppd on
repositioning or less popular itineraries are sometimes
available.

VALUE I rationalize that if one takes the per diem cost of a
standard cabin on a mainstream cruise ship; then adds the cost of
gratuities, adds the cost of wine and other drinks, and adds the
cost of better quality (surcharged) dining; then doubles this
amount to cover the cost of higher space ratios and higher crew to
passenger ratios on luxury ships, one has a reasonable price
comparison for a luxury cruise of the same itinerary. Some would
argue that large (300+ sq. ft.) suites with butler service on a
mainstream cruise ship are directly comparable to a small ship
luxury cruise, but I have never taken (or priced) that option.

As an example, the Costa Romantica sailed from Dubai on a
similar but slightly shorter itinerary than the Silver Cloud's. The
price pppd for a standard outside cabin with the usual surcharges
on the Romantica was about half the price pppd of our cruise, so I
felt we received a reasonable value for our money on the Silver
Cloud.

For those travelers not used to spending $400 to $500 plus per
day on themselves, it takes a bit of effort not to think of what
one could be doing with that money instead, especially if one is
traveling to third world countries where donating that amount might
feed someone for an entire year. I have had those thoughts in the
past and have acted on them, but now that I am older, I enjoy
luxury cruises guilt-free. It is a personal issue that everyone
must settle for him- or herself.

PART 2: OUR SILVER CLOUD CRUISE IN THE PERSIAN GULF Booking: We
booked our March cruise in October of the previous year. Silversea
requires a 10% deposit, with graduated cancellation penalties
beginning 120 days prior to the cruise, and full payment due 90
days prior. They offer an extensive variety of booking options,
including travel insurance, "reassurance" that allows one to cancel
the cruise for any reason up to the day prior to cruising with 100%
credit toward a future cruise, air programs at various classes of
service, pre-cruise hotel programs, pre- and post-cruise extended
stays, baggage forwarding to the cruise port, and private car
transfers from your home to your nearest airport. As with our
previous cruises, we chose to make our own air, land, and travel
insurance arrangements independently.

Insurance: Silversea offers its own insurance program. In the
past we always avoided purchasing travel insurance since our own
insurance covers medical care abroad (note that Medicare does not),
and the likelihood of having to cancel a cruise close to the
departure date (when the penalty becomes significant) was slim.
More recently we have relied on internet insurance brokers which
offer a variety of coverage from a variety of reputable travel
insurance companies, often the same ones used by the cruise lines.
We have only filed a claim once, and that was for an overnight
travel delay on a return flight home. Our insurance policy covered
the hotel cost and all meals and related expenses for which we
could provide receipts. Our reimbursement was prompt.

An example of a travel insurance web site is insuremytrip.com,
where one can easily compare levels of coverage and corresponding
premium quotes from various insurers. Travel insurance can be
especially useful when waivers for pre-existing medical conditions
are needed, but one must read the policy summary to make certain it
includes this. Again, older travelers should remember that Medicare
does not cover medical costs when traveling abroad.

Pre-Cruise Air: For Dubai we chose Delta Airlines because they
have non-stop service from Atlanta to Dubai, which takes between 14
and 16 hours each way depending on the jetstream. Dubai's own
Emirates Airlines has non-stops from Houston and New York JFK, but
their prices are higher, and connections to those airports from our
home airport are relatively poor.

When we originally booked our Delta flight we had an excellent
connection from our home airport to Atlanta, with a 90 minute
layover until the flight to Dubai. Several weeks prior to our
departure, however, Delta dropped some of its regional services and
gave us a 6 hour layover in Atlanta. In addition, Delta's non-stop
Dubai service was curtailed from daily to twice a week, forcing us
to return a day earlier than we had originally booked. We learned
this only when we rechecked the flight schedule for our house
sitter and saw a 24 hour layover in Atlanta between our return
flights due to the curtailed service. We rebooked our return flight
a day earlier and had to cancel the desert safari and Bedouin camp
overnight that we had reserved for our final night in Dubai.

I mention these setbacks as an illustration of what is happening
to air service in the U.S. as airlines face higher fuel costs and
bigger deficits. Schedules are being pruned back and flights are
being consolidated. One must be flexible when flying nowadays. We
have taken six vacations in the last six months, and all six in a
row have had major delays, cancellations, or involuntary re-routes
due to missed connections. We no longer check bags, but instead
travel with just a carry-on bag to give us more flexibility, even
on this Silver Cloud cruise. We no longer feel safe arriving at a
cruise port on the day of cruise departure.

Pre-Cruise Hotel: Because we never know for certain when we will
arrive at the cruise port, even at domestic cruise ports, we always
book a hotel for one or more nights prior to a cruise. In this
case, we stayed for three nights in the historic center of Dubai,
in the Deira area near the spice and gold souks, across Dubai Creek
from the museums and attractions of the Bur Dubai area.

Hotel rates in Dubai usually begin around $200 per night and can
easily top $1,000 in the fancier hotels. Through the internet we
found a real bargain – the Residence Deira apartments (which are
run by the Le Meridien hotel chain) offered a
three-nights-for-the-price-of-one package, since our reservation
extended over a Friday night (the week-end in Islamic nations).
Having an apartment with modern shops nearby gave us the option to
make our own breakfasts and other meals if we wanted. Also, Le
Meridien has a welcome counter at the airport with a free shuttle
service between the airport and its apartments and hotels. It also
has a free shuttle service between the apartments and Le Meridien's
airport hotel for the use of the guest facilities there (spa, pool,
and restaurants). I believe that Le Meridien airport hotel was used
by Silversea for its own pre-cruise hotel program.

We are glad we spent extra pre-cruise time in Dubai, details of
which follow in our port review section.

A Silver Bullet: The following topic is important but is
somewhat detailed because I want to be fair and state the facts as
clearly as possible. Skip to the next topic if you like.

I mentioned that visas may be a problem on exotic itineraries.
We did not expect any problems since all of the ports on our
cruise, with the possible exception of Bandar Abbas in Iran, are
known to offer free or inexpensive visas on arrival.

However, in early January, exactly sixty days prior to our
departure for Dubai and half-way into the cancellation penalty
period, we received a written notice from Silversea that "United
States and Canadian passport holders must have an individual visa
for Qatar prior to boarding. Guests without a visa for Qatar will
be denied boarding."

Silversea provided the name of a visa service in Washington DC
to obtain the required visa, which cost almost $200 per person
including express shipping but not priority service. The visa took
three weeks to obtain. For us this visa cost came to about $50 per
person per hour that we were ashore in Qatar.

For some passengers this unexpected additional cost may be
unimportant compared to the absence of their passports and
inability to travel abroad for several weeks. We had previously
booked back-to-back Caribbean cruises in January, which we had
canceled. We had to obtain the required visa as soon as Silversea
notified us in January because we had also previously booked a
non-refundable trip to Israel and the Palestinian Territories
during February.

We were surprised when we ultimately boarded the Silver Cloud in
Dubai, we found a written notice from Silversea stating that "With
regard to our call at Doha, Qatar, all guests (all nationalities)
going ashore in this port must have a valid visa. If you have not
already arranged this in advance, we can obtain this on your
behalf. The cost is $50 USD, which may be charged to your shipboard
account. If you do not wish to go ashore on this day, but choose to
remain onboard, then no visa will be required."

You can imagine how angry this revelation made cruise passengers
who had followed Silversea's original instructions. I think
Silversea may have lost future customers because of their handling
of this visa issue. It certainly made their central office look
disorganized.

I was angry when I outlined the above events to the ship's
immigration officer shortly after boarding. We were later invited
to dine with him, where we learned that the poor fellow had only
joined the cruise line a month before and was not responsible for
the visa misinformation. I had expressed my frustration to the very
person who was not responsible.

A Bombshell: Exactly seven days prior to our departure for Dubai
we received another written notice from Silversea stating "…that
United Arab Emirates Immigration authorities may not allow
passengers with an Israeli stamp or visa in their passports to
enter the country, go ashore, or debark the vessel…. Silversea will
not be held responsible nor will Silversea make a refund or be
otherwise liable to any guest for such denial of entry…."

That denial of liability would be logical if Silversea had
notified passengers of this possibility well in advance. After all,
they planned this itinerary more than a year in advance. Notifying
passengers only days prior to cruise departure and then denying any
refunds speaks for itself. We were fortunate that our passports had
not been stamped in Israel or the Palestinian Territories when we
traveled there the month before our cruise.

In the end, one has sympathy for cruise lines that are at the
mercy of government authorities, but this sympathy evaporates if
the cruise lines do not perform due diligence in notifying their
passengers in a timely fashion. I assume that similar problems will
not recur now that the Silver Cloud has a new immigration
officer.

Embarkation: As part of its drive to attract tourism, Dubai has
built a beautiful new cruise terminal. It is designed to resemble a
ship, and provides air-conditioning, comfortable seating, and even
a snack bar for waiting cruise passengers. On most cruises
Silversea embarkations take place from 3pm to 5pm. Earlier boarding
costs $100 per person and includes lunch. I did not meet anyone on
our cruise who chose this option.

The boarding process could not have been simpler or more
pleasant. All necessary documentation had been completed prior to
the cruise, and at 3pm we were simply invited to walk the red
carpet (literally) along the dock to our ship. We then handed our
cruise ticket to the ship's officer who greeted us, and we climbed
the gangway to board.

We had experienced a delayed boarding and a disorganized
reception on our previous Silver Whisper cruise, but the staff of
the Silver Cloud handled this embarkation beautifully. We were
offered a glass of champagne when we boarded, then proceeded to the
show lounge where we gave up our passports for the duration of the
cruise, and then were escorted to our cabin where an additional
bottle of the house Nicolas Feuillate NV Brut champagne was waiting
on ice.

Vista Suite: Our cabin on this cruise was a Vista Suite, which
is the least expensive Silversea category. It has a large window
but no balcony. On the Silver Cloud this category suite measures
240 sq. ft. On the newer Silver Shadow and Silver Whisper this
category suite measures 287 sq. ft. The difference is not
noticeable in the sitting and sleeping areas, but it is noticeable
in the bathroom. The Silver Cloud bathroom is functional, with a
single sink and a combo tub and shower. The Silver Whisper bathroom
has double sinks and a separate tub and shower. The walk-in closets
are also slightly larger on the Silver Whisper than on the Silver
Cloud, but both are generous enough, even for over-packers.

We found our Vista Suite very comfortable and attractive. A nice
feature is the pair of dining chairs (in addition to a couch) and a
table that converts in size and height from a small coffee table
into a full dining table. This was especially useful for meals
ordered from room service. The full restaurant menu is available
during regular dining hours, and it is served course by course with
beautiful linen and crystal. In addition to the included drinks
stored in the cabin's mini-bar, caviar was available for purchase,
with prices ranging from $60 to $400 for a small container,
depending on the fish species.

The only cabin feature that really needs updating is the
television, which is quite small and is hidden almost at floor
level in a cabinet below the desk, making it inconvenient to watch
the available satellite TV or DVDs. A flat panel wall-mounted
television of larger size, preferably with internet access, would
be more appropriate. I heard that a dry dock is planned for the
Silver Cloud in 2009, and perhaps flat screen TVs will be included
in the updates.

Cabin Stewardesses: Our cabin stewardesses were both from the
Philippines and were both sunshine personified. They always greeted
us by surname and kept our cabin spotless. On our arrival they
inquired how we would like our refrigerator stocked (we requested
champagne and various white wines) and which bath amenities we
preferred – Bulgari or Acqua di Parma (we tried both).

Public Areas: As I mentioned, the Silver Cloud's public areas
are spacious, although not as large as those on the Silver Whisper.
The décor is pleasant, with decorative but not innovative art
works. Smoking is allowed in a few areas, but it was not a problem
on our cruise except in the dance area near the bar. Even though
most passengers were European, few smoked. Images of Silver Cloud's
public areas are available from Silversea's brochures and web site,
or on the very useful web site cruiseclues.com, which provides
links to other web sites for information about almost every cruise
ship afloat.

As on all Silversea ships, most of Silver Cloud's public areas
are located at the stern of the ship and cabins are located
forward, making it easy to find one's way to any venue. There is
one staircase forward and there are four elevators and one
staircase midship. The elevators were so efficient that we rarely
had to wait for one. Two wheelchair accessible Vista Suites are
adjacent to the elevators, although I did not see a wheelchair or
electric cart on our cruise. Although we did not tender at any
port, the gangway was sometimes three decks high, which can be
difficult for the mobility impaired.

There was a small CASINO that was only open when we were at sea,
but it did not seem heavily used. There were two SHOPS – one
featured Steiner jewelry (which had stiff competition from the
extravagant jewelry shops in Dubai), and the other featured
Silversea logo-wear and sundry items. There was no photo gallery
because there was no official photographer, and no art gallery
because there were no art auctions.

A pleasant LIBRARY provided a small but current selection of
books and newspapers in several languages. Full page faxes of major
international newspapers could be delivered to one's cabin for a
surcharge. A well-equipped INTERNET CENTER was said to have good
response times, but I did not use it because of the cost (fifty
cents per minute, with somewhat lower fees for pre-paid packages).
We found internet shops ashore with very quick response times and
fees around two cents per minute.

The swimming POOL was a delight. It is small but has very clean
saltwater, with minimal chemicals since there are virtually no
children on these cruises. (There was a very well behaved toddler
on our cruise, but children in diapers are not allowed in the pool
or hot tubs.) A pool grill and bar provided simple fare during the
afternoon, but the food was far better in the other dining
venues.

One minor problem with the pool deck was that pool attendants
did not clear used towels from lounge chairs. Most cruises have
"pool pigs" who leave towels and possessions on lounge chairs to
reserve them for the day, even when not in use. No one did that on
this cruise, but few passengers made the effort to clear their own
towels after use, hence many lounge chairs had a residual towel and
remained empty. Pool attendants provided drinks if asked but
otherwise did not offer them. They did not always clear empty
glasses from the area, some of which remained next to empty
chairs.

One disappointment that we experienced in the public areas was
the generally uncomfortable seating. The lounges and theater had
armchairs with almost vertical backs, providing little comfort or
low back support for people of average size and weight. Perhaps
this will be remedied during the next dry dock.

Fitness: Ironically the fitness center on the Silver Cloud
seemed larger and more pleasant than on the newer and larger Silver
Whisper, perhaps because on the Silver Cloud it is in a traditional
forward upper deck location with wrap around windows. The ceiling
is quite low, which may be a problem for taller passengers when
using the treadmills. The gym was reasonably well equipped for a
ship this size, with several treadmills, an elliptical trainer, a
recumbent bicycle, several weight machines, and numerous dumbbells
(some large enough that it would take two crew members to lift
them). As I mentioned, the best feature of the gym was the absence
of music – instead there were headphones for the personal TVs and
DVD players. An astroturf jogging/walking track is also located on
the top deck.

Spa: We did not sample any of the spa or hair salon treatments
that were listed on a menu in our cabin. Most ranged from $2 to $3
per minute, which seems standard on cruise ships.

Dining: For many cruise passengers dining is the highlight of
each day. This cruise was no exception. The Silver Cloud has a
large main restaurant (the "Restaurant"), an alternative mid-sized
restaurant which also serves as the buffet during breakfast and
lunch (the "Terrazza"), and a small restaurant which provides a
tasting menu with wine pairings and occasional meals for select
passengers (the "Saletta"). Very enjoyable wines are included with
meals, and premium wines are also available for a surcharge.

The SALETTA tasting menu with paired wines is surcharged at $200
per person, and the tasting menu without paired wines is available
for $30 (complimentary wines are not available with the tasting
menu). A recent review of tasting menus at several Manhattan
restaurants published in the Wall Street Journal had an average
cost of $150 for the menu and $150 for the paired wines, so the
Saletta's surcharges appear appropriate. The tasting menu and
paired wine list are displayed outside the Saletta each day so that
one can decide whether to participate.

The TERRAZZA breakfast and lunch buffets were very popular on
our cruise, in part because of the fine weather and the adjoining
open deck dining (hence the name Terrazza). The buffet selections
mirrored the menu in the main restaurant and gave one the
opportunity to sample widely or to "specialize" in one course (you
dessert addicts know who we are). We tended to go to the Terrazza
early to obtain outside seating and to avoid the rush that follows
shore excursions. Also, at breakfast and lunch the open deck tends
to have the more experienced waiters from the main restaurant.

The Terrazza buffet maintains a refined atmosphere. When you
reach the end of the buffet line, a waiter will take your plate and
follow you to your table. Unfortunately this service doubles the
number of people in the aisles, which are already a bit narrow, and
distracts waiters from their job of clearing empty plates and
refilling empty drinks. The omelet (pasta at lunch) station is in
the center of the room. If one tries to place an order directly,
one is politely told to take one's seat and order through a waiter.
Unfortunately the single omelet chef could not keep up with orders.
My omelet usually arrived near the end of breakfast when I was
about ready to leave, and once did not arrive at all.

The Terrazza's evening meal is not surcharged but is by
reservation only. It features the cuisine of a different region of
Italy each evening. This seems appropriate since Silversea is an
Italian-owned cruise line. On our previous Silver Whisper cruise we
were unable to obtain any Terrazza dinner reservations. On this
cruise we went to the Terrazza immediately after boarding and had
no trouble reserving a table for one night. We thought we would
give other passengers the chance to make reservations before we
booked more nights, but within a few days the Terrazza was fully
booked and we were unable to return. I regretted my this when we
later met a couple who had made Terrazza reservations for every
evening of the cruise and who only ate in the main restaurant on
the one evening when they were invited to dine with one of the
officers.

The evening meal at the Terrazza is somewhat less formal than in
the main restaurant, which may be attractive to those men who wear
a suit rather than tuxedo on formal nights (most men wore tuxedos).
It is candlelit and intimate, with smaller tables than in the main
restaurant. The evening that we ate there the sauces seemed
somewhat richer and the meat even more tender than in the main
restaurant, but this may vary with the daily menu.

The main RESTAURANT is on a single level and is very attractive.
The linens and crystal are especially elegant. Wine glasses are
changed to match the wines selected, and flatware is changed with
each course rather than being laid out prior to the meal. The water
is bottled and is available still or carbonated. This is an
improvement over some ships, since wine glasses may magnify the
chlorinated taste of some tap water.

The Restaurant menu offers enough selections that it is rarely
necessary to request one of the "always available" alternatives
such as poached salmon or signature pasta. The dishes were
uniformly interesting, delicious, and beautifully plated. As part
of our pre-cruise information, I told Silversea that my wife has a
mild lactose intolerance. On arrival in our cabin we found a letter
from the chef suggesting we meet with him personally to clarify any
special dietary needs. This was very thoughtful but was not
necessary because of the wide selection available on each menu.

It impressed me that a restaurant at sea serving 200 people with
open seating could maintain such high standards day after day. The
service was impeccable, as I described at the beginning of this
review. The Restaurant maitre d' contributed to our pleasure by
seating us at tables with enjoyable conversationalists. All of our
fellow diners were English speaking and very interesting, but
surprisingly we dined with no other Americans during our entire
cruise. By nature, maitre d's tend to play favorites when seating
guests (it is their job), but we never had that sense in the
Restaurant. We dined with different passengers at every meal, and
enjoyed them all. By chance we saw our Maitre d' in the Dubai
airport heading home on the same day we did, but we did not get a
chance to thank him for a job well done.

Dancing: Some cruise passengers enjoy dancing before or after
the evening meal. That was not the case on the Silver Cloud. Even
though the ship's trio and the pianist alternated venues and were
very talented, the dance floor was very small and was located on
the smoking side of the bar. We saw no one dance on our cruise, but
we did not stay up late enough to see possible night owls.

Entertainment: Our cruise featured concerts by very talented
soloists who were also very enjoyable cruise mates. Over the eight
days of our cruise there were two concerts each by a British
vocalist, a Polish pianist , and an Anglo-American clarinetist,
each of whom had stellar performance backgrounds. In addition,
there were lectures by a former ambassador who had retired from the
American State Department. On several occasions he provided
interesting background for the countries we visited and for Middle
East politics in general.

Cruise Director: At this point a special thanks to our talented
cruise director, Judie Abbott, is appropriate. She admits to being
a lady of a "certain age" who began as a singer in West End
musicals then later became an entertainer and cruise director on
various cruise lines. On our cruise she handled everything from
shore announcements to entertainment schedules to guest relations.
She was also a delightful dinner companion. She has enough energy
and good spirits to put all of us to shame.

Shore Excursions: Although most shore excursions available from
cruise lines are worthwhile, we prefer to explore ports of call on
our own. Silversea deserves a special commendation for providing a
complimentary shuttle bus between the cruise piers (which may be
quite isolated) and the town centers. This made it easy for us to
sightsee on our own, which is safe and easy in the Persian Gulf. I
will tell you more about this in the next section of this
review.

Silversea's own excursions ranged from an inexpensive four hour
city tour ($48 per person) to a very expensive 45 minute helicopter
ride ($2,687 per person, subsequent lunch included). The shore
excursions seemed quite popular on our cruise, and I did not hear
about any problems or disappointments with them.

Which brings us to the third part of this review.

PART 3: VISITING PERSIAN GULF PORTS OF CALL ON YOUR OWN
Guidebooks: Having a good guidebook on any cruise will help you
enjoy your ports of call. Even if you purchase a shore excursion, a
guidebook will provide historical and cultural background and will
help you decide which excursion to select. If you prefer to explore
on your own, a guidebook with good maps is essential.

For our Persian Gulf ports I highly recommend Lonely Planet's
Oman, UAE, and Arabian Peninsula. For more detailed information
about hotels, shopping, and trendy restaurants I recommend Time
Out's Dubai, Abu Dhabi, and the UAE.

Purchase and read these books in advance of your cruise since
they list supplemental reading and resources you might enjoy, and
they will help you with packing and other aspects of your trip.
Photocopy specific maps and sightseeing information if you do not
want to carry the entire book ashore.

Money: All of the United Arab Emirates use the dirham, but
non-UAE nations like Qatar, Bahrain, and Iran have their own
currencies. We used U.S. dollars for our few small expenses when
UAE dirhams were not accepted. The Wall Street Journal or the
FXconverter section of the website oanda.com provides current
exchange rates. We did not use credit cards, but they should be
acceptable in larger stores and shopping malls.

Dubai (UAE): The emirate and city of Dubai is not what one would
expect to find in a desert. Fifty years ago it was a backwater
fishing and pearl diving village. Today it is a futuristic
metropolis with enough sights and activities to keep one busy for a
week.

Perhaps the easiest way to orient oneself on arrival is to spend
an entire day on the Big Bus hop-on hop-off tour
(bigbustours.com/eng/dubai). For about $50 per ticket one can ride
for a day in an open-top double-deck bus on either or both of two
tour circuits, one covering the historic city center and the other
extending westward to the beach resorts and some major shopping
malls. In addition, the ticket includes an hour-long boat ride on
Dubai Creek (which can be done at a later date) and a short
escorted walking tour of the historic district. There will not be
enough time to enjoy all the bus stops, but at least this tour will
give an introduction to the city. One warning, however: the air in
Dubai can be filled with dust and exhaust fumes. I recommend moving
inside the bus when traveling on the expressways (to and from the
beach and shopping centers). We stayed outside and coughed up
pollutants for the next several days. Also wear adequate sun
protection when riding in the open air.

For those who enjoy cultural and historical sights, staying in
the Deira or Bur Dubai districts rather than the beach resorts is
best. In Bur Dubai one finds the Bastakia Quarter, a historic
reconstruction of old Dubai with narrow lanes and typical wind
towers (the best way to cool homes before the days of air
conditioning). This quarter now houses several modern art
galleries, a few small hotels, and a branch of the Sheikh Mohammed
Center for Cultural Understanding, which provides an introduction
to local food in its weekly lunches and provides an introduction to
Islam in its tours of the Jumeirah mosque, which is some distance
away.

Also in Bur Dubai is the national museum, which is housed in the
city's original fort and has an extensive underground display area.
Adjacent to the museum is the textile souk (market) and not far
away is the abra (water taxi) station for transport across Dubai
Creek to the Deira section of the city.

In Deira one finds the gold souk, the perfume souk, and the
spice souk, among others. The gold souk is especially enjoyable
since it is covered from the sun and has benches for
people-watching in front of the numerous small jewelry shops.

A walk along either shore of Dubai Creek is enjoyable. The Deira
side has numerous traditional dhows (Arab boats) being loaded with
goods for outlying ports. The Bur Dubai side has several small
parks with benches and shade. The abra (water taxi) between the two
sides costs only one dirham (30 cents US), and the above described
sites are all within walking distance for someone in reasonable
shape. One can take a metered taxi from the cruise port to the old
fort and national museum for about 20 dirhams (about $6) each
way.

For those who prefer to shop, Dubai offers endless
opportunities. The shopping malls are on the periphery of the city
to the west and south. The cruise terminal offers free shuttle
buses to two of the southern ones – Deira Center and Wafi Center.
We enjoyed the latter for its elegant shops, its over-the-top
Egyptian décor, and its khan (a traditional market with carved wood
screens and stained glass ceilings). Keep in mind that the prices
in Dubai can be daunting. While browsing in the Escada shop at the
Wafi Mall, my wife came upon a small jacket that she really liked.
She lost interest when I converted the price tag for her – it was
exactly $10,000 U.S.

Not on the free shuttle route but on the Big Bus tour is the
Madinat Shopping Center, which is built in a traditional Arab style
and is surrounded by picturesque plazas and canals that connect to
an adjacent hotel. It also provides fine views of the nearby Burj
al Arab, the world's only (self-appointed) seven star hotel, with
prices to match. For those who cannot afford an overnight,
afternoon tea at the Burj al Arab costs a little over $100 per
person, is served from 3-5 pm in the view restaurant, and requires
advance reservations).

Also on the Big Bus tour is the Mall of the Emirates. This is a
must-see for its incredible indoor ski hill and toboggan run. It
has hundreds of stores and provides excellent people watching in
air-conditioned comfort.

Another favorite mall, which we did not visit, is the Ibn
Battuta Mall, which is the farthest west and requires a taxi to
reach. It is named after an historic Arabian traveler and features
architecture and décor from all over the Arabic traders' world,
from Spain to China. Within the next few years several even larger
and more exotic malls are scheduled to open.

I highly recommend spending at least half a day visiting Dubai's
malls, even if one is not a shopper. Shopping malls are museums of
our times, and these malls provide the most amazing displays of
consumer culture (and sometimes the lack of it) in the world.

Fujairah (UAE): Fujairah is probably the least wealthy and least
developed of the emirates, and offers little of interest near the
port. In fact, your cruise ship may stop here mainly to refuel
since it is one of the most active refueling ports in the
world.

The area is best known for the beach resorts and diving
opportunities that lie some distance north of the main city, and
for the low Hajar mountains and hiking opportunities that lie some
distance to the west.

A taxi ride from the port (too far to walk) is a picturesque old
fort (currently undergoing restoration) and nearby is a modest
museum of local history and culture. In the modern town are a few
shopping centers (such as the Lulu mall) with very reasonable
prices for essentials that one may have forgotten to pack, but the
luxurious malls of Dubai are absent.

Abu Dhabi (UAE): Abu Dhabi is the largest and one of the
wealthiest of the emirates. While Dubai is known for its nightlife
and glitz, Abu Dhabi seems proud to be more cultured and sedate.
Enormous sums have been spent to turn Abu Dhabi city into a lush
green urban oasis with parks and playgrounds next to futuristic
skyscrapers. Walking along the corniche (waterfront) and through
the many gardens can be an enjoyable way to spend a warm winter day
(walking in the summer in any of the emirates is virtually
impossible due to the heat).

The port is a few miles east of the city center, and it is
necessary to take a taxi or ship shuttle bus into town. In the
center of town a few blocks from the corniche is a fine Cultural
Foundation, which provides major exhibits and concerts by
international stars. When we were there, we saw a very nice exhibit
of treasures from Sudan, similar to those from ancient Egypt.
Upstairs is a café and an adjacent handicraft center (the larger
and more active Women's Handicraft Center is several miles
south).

From there we took a taxi to the Emirates Palace Hotel on the
western edge of the city. In contrast to Dubai's Burj al Arab
Hotel, the Emirates Palace Hotel seems to welcome tourists who are
interested in seeing its extravagant lobby or having tea in its
café. In the far distant corner as one enters the hotel is an
exhibition area (the hotel is so massive that one of the employees
will be happy to walk you there). When we were there it featured an
Arabic calligraphy show, but only my wife got to see it since that
afternoon was reserved for women only (as are some beaches and some
taxis in the emirates). Instead, I spent an hour in an adjacent
exhibition on the various new architectural projects planned for
the city, including maquettes by Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid, and other
architectural superstars. It becomes quite obvious from the
enormous public building projects that Abu Dhabi, like the other
emirates, is working hard to convert its massive dollar reserves
into hard assets.

From the Emirates Palace Hotel it is a pleasant walk to the
Marina Mall (exit the lobby front, walk down through the gardens
past the water features, exit the main gate, and then turn left
outside the garden wall turning north past the VIP gate). There
will be beautiful views across the gulf to the back of the hotel,
which is far more massive than it appears from the front.

The Marina Mall is very similar to the modern upscale malls of
Dubai. A viewing tower in the mall was not open when we were there.
From the mall it is a taxi or shuttle ride back across the city to
the port. The taxi stand is well organized. Fares should be metered
(in UAE dirhams), but are reasonable even if negotiated.

Doha (Qatar): Qatar is not a member of the United Arab Emirates
and therefore has its own currency (the riyal, which is almost
equivalent in value to the UAE dirham). When we visited Doha, the
capital of Qatar, our ship provided a free shuttle into the center
of town and the several sights we saw were all free and within
walking distance of each other. The only cost was the Qatar visa
(almost $200 each in our case), but that issue was already
discussed in my Silver Cloud cruise review.

Qatar is completing a beautiful new Islamic museum, a national
library, a national museum, and a photography museum, but none of
these was open in March 2008 when we visited. Instead, the ship's
free shuttle bus dropped us off at the nicely reconstructed Souq
(traditional shopping area) Waqif. This provides many small shops
with handicrafts, spices, and inexpensive souvenirs. Nearby is a
large mosque with a spiral minaret. When we ventured in, we were
welcomed by guides who took us to the modern prayer room upstairs
and provided us with extensive free booklets about Islam and a copy
of the Koran itself. Downstairs was a very interesting photo
exhibition of Islamic calligraphy, and a resident calligrapher
wrote our (transliterated) names as a free souvenir of our
visit.

Until the major new museums are completed, there is not much
else to do in Doha, although the nearby corniche (waterfront)
provides a pleasant walk on mild winter days.

Manama (Bahrain): Like Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Bahrain is
undergoing an economic boom, with futuristic skyscrapers and
massive public works. Ships dock several miles south of the Manama
city center, and the free shuttle bus from the port to the Bahrain
Gate (Bab al Bahrain) was very useful. However, rush hour can mean
gridlock, and some of our cruise mates spent more than an hour on
the bus traveling those few miles. Fortunately we disembarked
early, as soon as the ship cleared immigration formalities, when
traffic was still light.

The highlight of Manama for us was the free Koran Museum (Beit
al Quran), about a mile east of the Gate, not far from the new
National Museum. This provides beautifully displayed examples of
rare and modern Korans and related Arabic calligraphy. While we
were there, large tour groups from the Costa Romantica passed
through in waves. The groups seemed too large to enjoy the
exhibits, and we were glad to have the museum to ourselves between
groups.

An easy walk (with some frightening intersections) to the east
is the modern National Museum, which provides beautiful cultural
and historical displays pertaining to Bahrain. The entry fee is
about $3 US ( 1 Bahraini dinar) for two people. The ticket seller
accepted US cash. The museum is well worth a visit.

Bandar Abbas (Iran): This was the first time that Silversea
stopped at a mainland Iran port (Bandar Abbas is Iran's largest
gulf port and is a major naval station). Some passengers were
apprehensive about stopping there, but the welcome could not have
been warmer. In fact, we were greeted dockside by a group of young
children in ethnic (Bandar) costumes as local newsmen hovered in
the background taking photos.

As in other ports, the ship provided a free shuttle to the town
center, which is several miles to the east of the port. The local
escorts seemed hesitant to let us wander on our own, not because of
any travel restrictions but simply because they felt responsible
for our well-being in the crowded markets. Fortunately a group of
Turkish passengers (perhaps Persian emigres) spoke Farsi and
explained to the guides that we would be fine on our own, so off we
went.

There is little in the way of museums or major sights in Bandar
Abbas, which is not known as a tourist center. However, the several
traditional covered markets, small modern shopping centers, and
outdoor farmers markets provided enough color to make the port a
very enjoyable and photogenic stop. Unlike their Arab neighbors,
the Persians did not seem to mind being photographed, although we
always asked permission first.

In one modern shopping center we found a small internet café. We
had no Iranian currency, so I offered the owner a handful of euros,
dollars, and dirhams. He took two dollars (for half an hour of
internet time), and even though our currency was probably worthless
to him, he wanted to gives us change in Iranian rials, which we
declined.

Whatever one may read in the news about Iran as a nation, the
people of Bandar Abbas were exceptionally friendly and seemed
surprised to see us. One senses the financial constraints they are
under (there were some beggars but no apparent urban squalor), but
still they managed to smile and were happy to help us when
possible. Their Persian ancestry is quite distinct from their
Arabic neighbors across the Persian (called Arabian by the Arabs)
Gulf. One hopes that tourism to Iran will flourish when current
political issues stabilize.

CONCLUSION Two weeks after our Persian Gulf cruise on the Silver
Cloud my wife and I took a Panama Canal cruise on a premium
mainstream cruise line. Although we found that canal cruise very
enjoyable, with fine food and good service, the large ship (2,000
passengers) seemed noisy, crowded, and impersonal when compared
with our experience on the Silver Cloud. Whether the difference
between luxury and mainstream cruise lines is worth the difference
in cruise price is a personal question. You will have to try a
luxury cruise to answer that question for yourself.

When choosing a cruise style, for us the answer remains "all of
the above". We will continue to cruise on a variety of cruise lines
in a variety of cruise styles, enjoying each for what it does best.
Similarly, over the years we have owned economical compact cars,
high performance sports cars, and luxury sedans. Wouldn't life be
boring if we were all limited to one type of car -- or one type of
cruise ship?

Could not understand why there were no reviews on this line.
Just came back from the Silver Wind Fall Foliage Cruise and yes we
did have one complaint. Which is not bad considering how much there
is to complain about. Our Complaint? Ah yes the problem was that
the leaves hadn't turned yet!!!! We have been on 19 different
cruises and Silverseas came as close as possible to a 10 which I
refuse to give because no one is perfect!

I should add that the other passengers were great (nearly all
seniors) and they wanted to keep it a deep dark secret as nearly
all had been on 3 or more Silversea cruises!

Several years ago I sailed on Silversea Cruises' SILVER CLOUD in
the Mediterranean. I greatly enjoyed the experience but haven't
found the time to return as quickly as I had hoped, until now.

My partner and I chose the SILVER SHADOW for a 9-night cruise
beginning in Barbados on October 17, 2007 and ending in Ft.
Lauderdale. We also spent two nights at Sandy Lane in Barbados
prior to the cruise. For those that prefer to "cut to the chase" so
to speak, I'll tell you upfront that Silversea lived up to all our
expectations and even exceeded them. The reports I have read on
various message boards about declining standards were not evident
on my sailing. In fact I think some aspects of the cruise were
upgraded upon reflection of my previous Silversea experience.

Pre-Cruise Special mention must be made of Silversea's
pre-cruise documentation. They say first impressions are lasting
impressions in this is certainly the case with Silversea. I don't
think any Cruise Line or Tour Company has a better presentation.
Your documents arrive in a silver box, and inside is a lovely black
document holder embossed with the Silversea

logo. The documents have the personal touch and the ticket is
actually printed on Silversea letterhead rather than typical ticket
stock. Also included is a leave at home itinerary, pre printed
baggage tags, two Silversea permanent luggage tags, shore excursion
booklet, question and answer book, a suite preference form, and a
gift order form. It's this early indication of attention to detail
that continued throughout the cruise and sets Silversea apart from
other lines. [
http://public.fotki.com/eroller/silver-shadow---oct/silver-shadow---cor/img2624.html
]

Sandy Lane "Simply to die for." We flew from Atlanta to Barbados
on American and the flight was average. Nothing to write home about
but we (and our luggage) arrived safely and in tact. That alone is
a good flight in my book. Once we cleared customs our private car
(BMW 7-series) and driver were there to greet us. Round trip
transfers are provided by Sandy Lane if you book through the
American Express Fine Hotel and Resorts Program (Platinum and
Centurion Card holders). It's a fairly long drive from the airport
to Sandy Lane. I would say it took about 40 minutes and although we
were tired, we quickly forgot about our fatigue once we pulled
through the gates of Sandy Lane. "Stunning" is really the best word
to describe the property. Flowers, fountains, a fresh fragrance,
birds chirping, and the ocean lapping truly put us into sensory
overload. A very warm welcome from the accommodating staff (kudos
to Sandra, Sophia, and Walwen) immediately put us at ease. Ice-cold
menthol towels were presented along with a delicious concoxion of
fresh island juices. We were escorted to our suite in the Orchard
Wing where the check-in formalities were conducted and an
orientation of the suite was given. You might wonder why we would
need an orientation, so please have a look at the pictures (see
pictures link at the end of the review) and you will see why. The
suite had soothing décor, traditional in style but high-tech at the
same time. There were three flat-panel TV's where you could program
music, watch TV, play DVD's, access hotel services, or surf the net
(free of charge). In addition there were several control panels
throughout the suite that controlled curtains, music, lights, air
conditioning, fans, door locks, etc. Even the "do not disturb" sign
was an electronic light controlled from the panel. In addition we
enjoyed the high-tech espresso maker.

Our suite included a bedroom, walk in closet, marble bath,
second half bath, dining area, parlor, and entry hall. In addition
the patio was massive and also included it's own dining area and
seating area. Please see the pictures, as words really can't
describe this gorgeous room. [
http://public.fotki.com/eroller/silver-shadow---oct/sandy-lane---barbados/
] We were only steps from the beach, which was an added plus.

That night we enjoyed the Manager's Cocktail reception in the
main patio area and then a delicious tasting menu dinner at
L'Acadou, the fine dining establishment. It was delicious and very
expensive! While we dined we enjoyed entertainment from native
Barbados dancers along with island music. The other backdrop was a
beautiful starlit beach and a calm surf adding to the ambiance.

Sandy Lane offers an amazing spa, massive pool with waterfalls
and swim up bar, country club with three golf courses, childcare
center, and a beautiful beach. The entire nature of the resort is
one of relaxation, indulgence, sport, and quiet reflection.

Notes and highlights include: amazing beach service and
wonderful padded chairs; incredible spa; three championship golf
courses with beautiful clubhouse; GPS navigation system in every
golf cart; majority of British guests; wild monkeys roaming the
property; stunning beach and pools; warm, friendly service from the
heart.

I'm pretty much a ship fanatic and usually can't wait to get to
the ship. Staying at Sandy Lane was the exception. I really didn't
want to leave. It was simply that fantastic. We were given hugs
from the staff as we left and another private car took us to the
SILVER SHADOW, about a 20-minute drive away along the coast.

Boarding Silver Shadow Boarding the SILVER SHADOW was impressive
as ever. A group of about ten staff were pierside in white gloves
to welcome you onboard. Once up the gangplank, Fernando the Cruise
Director from Portugal was present to personally greet you.
Champagne was offered and check-in formalities were conducted in
the showlounge. Mission quickly accomplished, we were escorted to
our suite, cabin 618, slightly forward on Deck 6 and what Silversea
labels a Veranda Suite.

Suite 618 Renee, our cabin Stewardess from New Zealand quickly
arrived and introduced herself. She pointed out all the features of
the suite and made sure we knew how to contact her for anything we
desired. She also asked what type of pillows we prefer, and how we
would like the bar stocked. Amenities in the suite included
binoculars; umbrella; sewing and shoe shine kit; extra blanket;
slippers; robes; safe; clock; cosmetic mirror; stocked
refrigerator; ice; glasses; and wonderful Bvlgari bath products. Of
course a bottle of champagne awaited us along with the daily
program (the Silversea Chronicles) and personalized stationary /
welcome letters.

Service provided by Renee was exemplary and the cabin was kept
spotless. Everything was like new and in perfect working order.
This cabin was very quiet and we rarely heard noise from outside
the cabin.

Special mention must be made of room service. It is truly
exquisite. There is an extensive room service menu, but if there is
something else you desire just ask and the staff will do their best
to accommodate you. The breakfast menu is quite extensive and I
enjoyed delicious blueberry pancakes most mornings. Lunch and
dinner are also superb, and you are free to order off the dining
room menu (included in the daily Silversea Chronicles) during
normal lunch and dinner times. Room service is not just dropped
off, but prepared on a special table that fits over the coffee
table in your suite. Frette linens and fine china / silverware
accompany the delicious cuisine. At dinner, you have the option of
having your courses served course by course if you desire. The room
service alone is reason enough to sail on Silversea!

The Ship SILVER SHADOW is typical of the Silversea fleet.
Modern, clean, impeccably maintained, understated, comfortable, and
well designed. I slightly prefer the SILVER SHADOW over the SILVER
CLOUD for a few reasons. The gym and spa are larger, as is the pool
deck. Also, the outdoor decks are more expansive and the cabin
bathrooms are larger. SHADOW also had a newer feeling to her, which
makes sense as she is a newer vessel. The differences are small
enough that I would not hesitate to sail on the smaller Silversea
vessels again if the opportunity arises.

Food and Service I felt both were impeccable. I never had a bad
meal and the service received everywhere onboard was outstanding.
The staff learned your name very quickly and called you by name
whenever they had the opportunity.

The Restaurant was available for all three main meals, as was La
Terrazza, which is the more casual venue. Breakfast and lunch in La
Terrazza were buffet style although there was also a small menu at
each table with daily selections. Plenty of staff are on hand to
carry your plate and provide beverages. A lovely outdoor area with
teak furniture is available at La Terrazza as well. For dinner, La
Terrazza becomes a specialty restaurant, which I greatly enjoyed. I
didn't feel the food and service were any better than The
Restaurant, but it was a nice change of atmosphere. Reservations
are required. The Restaurant had a four-piece band and dancing on
certain evenings along with candlelit tables all adding to the
ambiance. Many people danced between courses.

Le Champagne is an extra tariff restaurant and one of the few
things you pay additional for on Silversea. I never tried it so I
can't comment. It never seemed too busy but then again nothing
seems too busy on Silversea. There is simply no waiting and no
lines anywhere.

Finally there is the Poolside Grill. Beautiful teak tables and
chairs are located in shaded areas poolside, and there is a special
menu. Here they have burgers, hot dogs, fresh fish, chicken,
salads, and wonderful deserts. Unlike poolside grills on most
ships, this one is all waiter service. Everything is brought to you
and made to order. If you want something off the menu, just ask. I
really enjoyed the Poolside Grill, as I tend to spend a lot of time
by the pool.

Something Silversea is well known for is an evening barbeque
poolside. This is not a typical barbeque but truly a first class
affair with dancing, entertainment, waiter service, real china, and
linen covered tables. I greatly enjoyed this on SILVER CLOUD and
was looking forward to it on the SHADOW as well. Unfortunately
after the crew spent hours preparing, it had to be canceled due to
showers. A disappointment for the passengers, but I felt more sorry
for the crew who worked so hard to provide a truly memorable
experience.

Entertainment Entertainment is very low key on Silversea. There
are no art auctions, photographers, bingo, pool games (besides
water volleyball) Vegas shows, or revenue producing announcements.
Instead there are enrichment lectures and demonstrations during the
day, with a small show (usually a vocalist or musician) at night
along with dancing and music. Don't be fooled though, evenings can
be lively on Silversea with dancing and conversation going into the
wee hours. One set of lectures I enjoyed on this sailing were
provided by the Cruise Director Fernando. It turns out he is a bit
of a ship nut like I am. Just like I did as a child, he collected
brochures, deck plans, and visited any ship possible while growing
up in Lisbon. He is quite knowledgeable about ships and put on an
entertaining lecture all with his own slides.

Fellow Passengers In keeping tradition with my last Silversea
Cruise, our fellow passengers were a diverse group. There were only
three children onboard, with a nice mix of ages for the adults. I
think something like 27 nationalities were represented among the
passengers, which speaks volumes considering the ship had just
under 300 passengers onboard. I think the majority of passengers
were from the UK, with the US close behind. What I love about
Silversea passengers is how well traveled they are. Most love to
talk about travel and they have lots of interesting stories and
antidotes to share. Many seem to know each other from past
Silversea Cruises. It really felt like a big family and everyone
seemed to get along famously. With only 300 passengers onboard, you
always ran into a familiar face, which is a pleasant change from
the mega-ships.

Weather The weather was simply marvelous from start to finish.
We had short rain showers in St. Barts (between the sun and stars)
and the rest of the time it was glorious sunshine. Our final
morning pulling into Ft. Lauderdale we were met with overcast skies
and rain, but at that point who cares?

Seas were calm and usually it was difficult to tell the ship was
moving. There was a slight rocking on a few nights, just enough to
lull you to sleep.

I'm not going to write too much about the ports. We had been to
most before and we really went on this cruise for the ship
experience more than the ports. Barbados and St Barts were my
favorites, and I would certainly return to either. I wasn't too
thrilled with St Lucia or Guadeloupe. In fact Guadeloupe should
have been skipped all together as far as I was concerned.

In St. Bart's we went to the lovely Guanahani Hotel and enjoyed
an afternoon of sun on the beach. We were able to use all the
facilities of the hotel and enjoyed a wonderful lunch poolside. The
Guanahani is a first class resort, but personally I much preferred
Sandy Lane on Barbados. The SILVER SHADOW actually arrived in St.
Bart's at 11pm the night prior to our schedule arrival. We simply
anchored off the island and spent the night in the shadow of the
island. It was kind of magical with the ship being so quiet (no
engines) and the shoreline being so close.

Silversea provided a lovely private beach barbeque on Prickly
Pear Island. This island is next to the exclusive Necker Island
owned by Richard Branson. Literally everything was brought ashore
from the ship via tender and the crew did an amazing job. The only
thing local was the music, which was great. Cocktails, champagne,
beer, etc. were all included just as they are onboard ship. A
special treat were the waiters who waded out into the ocean to
serve guests champagne and beer (or anything else you wanted) from
special floating trays. It was truly a sight to behold and I quite
enjoyed the experience, decadent as it was! I think the waiters
enjoyed it as much as the passengers. I know Seabourn Cruise Line
had done this for years, and now it appears Silversea is getting
into the act as well.

Disembarkation All good things must come to an end, and
unfortunately this Silversea cruise was no exception. Debarkation
was smooth and civilized. There are no announcements before 8am and
I was even able to enjoy my blueberry pancakes via room service the
last morning. We said our goodbyes and we were off the ship by 9am.
The staff was lined up to say goodbye as you exit the ship and
available to carry your hand luggage if you so desire. We took a
cab to Miami where we caught an uneventful American flight back to
Atlanta.

Final Thoughts I hope from this review you are able to determine
how much I enjoyed this vacation. I truly feel Silversea is better
than ever, as they continue to provide a first class cruising
experience. The combination of newer small ships, larger cabins,
balconies, spotless vessels, delicious cuisine, attention to
detail, interesting itineraries, and excellent personal service
truly places Silversea at the forefront of the luxury cruise
industry. I did not witness any penny pinching or a decline in
service as some have indicated on various message boards. In fact I
felt many things were even better and more luxurious than my past
Silversea cruise about six years ago. Some people just can't be
pleased and seem to look for anything to nit pick at. I have sailed
on over 60 cruises on many different cruise lines and I can tell
you it would be difficult to surpass my experience on the SILVER
SHADOW.

Just below is a link to pictures and my email address if you
have any questions. I hope you enjoyed the review and pictures.

Pictures Link:

http://public.fotki.com/eroller/silver-shadow---oct/

Note: The pictures are divided into several different folders
(ports, cabin, ship, etc.).

My husband and I were on Silver Wind ten years ago and had the
trip of our lifetime. I never thought it could be repeated again.
But it was! Another trip of a lifetime on Silversea!

We were on a 9 day cruise - June 6-15 to Greek Islands, Sicily
and Italy.

Of course the ports were wonderful, but I am not going to review
the ports since everyone chooses an itinerary based on their own
preferences. My objective is to discuss our experience on
Silversea.

From the moment we boarded the ship- The service was
incredible!! Every staff person always greeted us and had a big
smile on their faces.

Woke up very early every morning (we couldn’t wait to start our
day on Silver Whisper) - and ordered cappuccino delivered to our
rooms. Ten minutes later it would arrive and placed on our balcony
with fine linens and china. 24 hour room service- you can order
anything to eat or drink. Ordered drinks at 2:00 a.m. and same
efficient and quick service.

Then we would go to La Terrazza for buffet breakfast when it
opened. Huge wonderful assortment

of breakfast items, juices, fresh omelet station, fresh fruit
station with staff cutting the fruit. etc. - Glasses for juices
were chilled. The attention to this kind of detail was evident in
everything they did on the ship. Then you could have pancakes,
waffles etc., prepared for you.

I am not a breakfast eater- so ordered Lamb Chops, with wild
mushrooms and ice tea every morning. (Asked for fresh pineapple
slice in my ice tea). By the second day, the waiters knew me and
would say - “Are you ready for your Lamb Chops and your Ice tea
with fresh pineapple”. 10-15 minutes later the Lamb Chops arrived.
The point I am trying to get across is whatever special request you
may want- the answer is always “YES”! The waiters would carry your
plates to your table from the buffet. All the waiters had wonderful
attitudes and were there to please you in every way. You are made
to feel very special!

We had a veranda suite which included a balcony. We loved having
the balcony and used it all the time. The room is lovely, with
plenty of closet space and more drawers than you can fill up- and
we had 4 pieces of luggage. Personalized stationary with your name
on it. Fresh flowers in your cabin. The bathrooms were fantastic! -
double sinks, shower and tub with Bulgari amenities- soap, shampoo,
conditioner etc. Very comfortable bed with fine linens and duvet
cover.

The stewardess was fantastic. Always smiling and calling us by
our names. Good morning Mr. and Mrs.…... The stewardess’s- work in
teams with 2 people taking care of your suite. The cabins are
cleaned twice a day and the cleaning was immaculate. They even
lined up my makeup in a straight row!

We kept saying to ourselves, this service is UNBELIEVABLE!!!

We had to keep asking ourselves how anything can be so perfect
like this.

We ate dinner every night in the main dining room and also ate
once in the Italian Restaurant. The food was excellent. Many
choices and if you don’t see what you like on the menu- they will
bring you what you request. One day I saw an appetizer from lunch
that looked interesting and requested it for dinner. Nothing was
ever a problem! The dining room wait staff was so professional,
great attitudes and impeccable service.

We were greeted by the waiter and wine steward the minute you
sat down. Every night it was like eating in a fine restaurant.
Presentation of the food on the plates was always beautifully done.
The beef dishes were extraordinary- beef melted in our mouths! You
will be pampered beyond belief!!

Most nights we would stay in the dining room for 3 hours talking
to our fellow guests we were dining with at our table.

We enjoyed the formal nights as it made for a Glamorous Evening!

Chef David was accessible to all the guests. Coming out to the
dining room, greeting everyone and making sure you were happy. One
day my husband told the chef- he may prefer something different
instead of a filet of fish. The chef said call me and let me know-
he said "do you want a whole fish- I can make it anyway you
want".

Almost on every port before we were ready to sail- there would
be a lovely small buffet set up by the pool area before dinner.
Chef David was always walking around - getting to know all the
guests.

One night we had a "Barbeque Dinner" on the pool deck. It was
FANTASTIC! Forty desserts to choose from- I counted! The pool deck
was set up with fabric covered chairs, linen tablecloths. Great
entertainment and dancing to the wee hours. We were talking to a
few couples and the Captain came by our table and talk to us for
one hour! That is what made our cruise so special- all the staff
treated you like family!

Every cruise they do an open Kitchen Galley Buffet Lunch. What a
magnificent presentation! So interesting to see how the kitchen
functions.

At the bars they use linen napkins- another attention to fine
detail! All the bartenders made great drinks! I like Pina Coladas
and had it prepared in Hawaii with vanilla ice cream. I told the
bartender and with in a few minutes they went down to the kitchen
galley and got the ice cream. No request is denied!

When we disembarked at the ports they had cold bottled water to
take ashore and on the way back waiting for the tenders to return
to the ship -at the ports they had cold punch, water and chilled
towels!

What makes Silversea cruises so special are the fellow
passengers you meet. We met wonderful, fascinating people from all
over the world. Everyone was so friendly and wanted to socialize.
We have made some lasting friendships that we will keep in touch
with.

If you want wonderful service, great food, and a smaller ship
than there is only one Cruise Line- SILVERSEA!

The advantage of the smaller ship is that it is easier to make
friends since you run into the same people all the time and the
staff members get to know you personally.

Ron our cruise director was so friendly, and eloquent making
announcements and always had a big smile when he greeted us.

The entertainment was classy, A Broadway singer, a famous
pianist etc.

On the third day the Cruise Hotel Director delivered to all
cabins a sheet asking if there is anything that he can do to make
your cruise more pleasant please let him know. I wrote back on the
sheet: “HOW CAN YOU IMPROVE PERFECTION” And I meant it. There is
nothing that I would add or change.

Spoke to many fellow passengers the last day of the cruise and
everyone had the same opinion saying it was FABULOUS!

If you like Four Seasons hotels than you will love
Silversea!

In fact I think Silversea is a cut above Four Seasons Hotels if
you compare everything.

Silversea is a CLASS ACT! You will not be disappointed. In fact
it will probably be one of the highlights of your life!! You will
be blown away with the Perfection in everything they do to make
your cruise a memorable experience.

Silversea is expensive, but worth every dollar you pay. We loved
an all inclusive cruise- never have to sign for anything.
Everything is included.

We kept asking ourselves, how can a cruise line deliver such a
perfect product down to every last detail.

We travel all over the world for our business and have stayed in
the finest hotels- and the Cruise we just went on with Silversea in
all around service, food, attention to detail, and staff is top on
our list.

To be honest it was hard to go back to reality when the cruise
ended as this cruise was a Fantasy come true!

Our experience on Silversea was beyond our wildest dreams!

How would we describe our cruise? MAGNIFICENT! AMAZING! PERFECT!
FANTASTIC! INCREDIBLE! AND FABULOUS!!

If you want the best service, great food, a wonderful cruise
experience than Silversea is for you!