Derek Lam / Fall 2011 RTW

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Derek Lam began his show notes with a quote from George Balanchine: “There are no new steps, only new combinations.” That can feel especially true in fashion (particularly during collections), so bravo to Lam for both recognizing that and aiming to introduce some fresh, wearable juxtapositions to fall.

Lam is at his best when he’s designing chic sportswear for American women. He did that here with well-constructed wool coats that sort of stand around the body and flattering flannel trousers that his customers will clamor for. Everything felt clean, and his use of red with baby blue and gray made for a new, bright fall palette. One thing is for certain: He’s brilliant at showing clothes and strong accessories that will translate to the sale floor and look seductive to women—even if he doesn’t give you the runway drama.

Lam fell slightly short of the Balanchine credo. The shapes were good, but not outstanding or particularly innovative. And the layering of tunics over pants was a trend largely seen during prefall. However—and this is a big however—his evening dresses were gorgeous. Long, full, beautifully draped in the back, they were subtle but still made a statement.