Artsey,
Teamsuck is handling the money. You could mail it to me or Duston, but really I would prefer to keep it simple and all together with Teamsuck. We loose a little, but the convenience is the value. You know...

Somebody asked about reusing the holes. That has been a consideration of mine for years, and Duston and I (and others) have talked long about it. In the end, the ability to get this big of a job done will be greatly helped by using the existing bolts on the steep stone. So, yes, there is a way to use existing holes, but it would be a huge pain in the ass to do it vs drilling new holes. Nice thing about glue ins is that they are not dependent on the contour of the stone behind the bolt. The mechanical bolts with flat hanger require a flat piece of rock behind to avoid lever forces and torquing forces. This was one of the limiting factors in finding the optimal placement that was also mindful of the spacing of the bolts, the clipping holds, stances etc. Glue ins open up the entire surface of the rock to placement. Of course there will be adequate distance inbetween the old holes and the new ones. Minimum of ten bolt diameters (5 inches).

So, this is a community project. We all can take stewardship of the project. Pat yourselves on the back.

"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie

the lurkist wrote:Artsey,
Teamsuck is handling the money. You could mail it to me or Duston, but really I would prefer to keep it simple and all together with Teamsuck. We loose a little, but the convenience is the value. You know...

Thanks Hugh! Donation sent!

Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.

The Lode is one of my favorite place ever and Ale-8-One my fav 12b for sure!
I always wanted to do some bolting so this is the perfect occasion to try. I'd be happy to give a hand when I'm around and also to take some photos of that titanic awesome project!

When the gear gets fallen on repeatedly the quicklinks get chewed into. People don't routinely check the gear at this point. It is difficult to see the damage at the link when you are hanging under the bolt. Equipping the Lode with permadraws will annual or biannual maintenance. That means someone is tracking the time. Are we this organized? The RRGCC does not do maintenance. Team Suck is senescing on average, and if they are indeed immortal they are no omniscient, furthermore I don't think routine maintenance jibes with their prospectus. Do we need another grassroots organization with a narrowly defined mission?

Actually Art, SSGIs are rounded at the eye and do not chew into the permadraw quicklink, unlike standard bolt hangers. The rope end steel biners will indeed get sharp on bolts that are frequently fallen on or out of line with the rest (to that end, do NOT let your rope get all sandy and then lower through fixed gear!!).

This is something EVERY climber using the gear has to monitor and maintain, but if you are motivated to round up such a "task force" by all means get to it. This project is about replacing the bolts at the Lode with SSGIs, so if we could stay on topic that would be awesome.

dustonian wrote:Actually Art, SSGIs are rounded at the eye and do not chew into the permadraw quicklink, unlike standard bolt hangers.

I accept that fact. This issue was the reason I was less than sanguine about donating. I will throw some duckets at the proj. if the regular hangers that chew the links so badly will be replaced. See I am on topic Todd.

It's a moot point, as all donations are going towards bolts, epoxy, bits, nozzles, and anchor materials (chain/ql's) and not to PD's... although we will take down any existing "permadraws" that are unsafe.

As a side note (sorry to go off topic again), ClimbTech really needs to upgrade the quality of the quicklink on their PDs... that soft low-grade steel, $2 quicklink they currently slap on there is a recipe for disaster.