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Topic: belay anchors (Read 4095 times)

i plan to place quite a few belay bolts in the spring.... 20-30 sets. I have almost always used the one up one down method. it allows for a bit of swing when rapping and kinda equalizes the loads. most stuff I see now is side by side with links.

The Fixe trad anchor seems the way to go.. these routes are not going to see TR action

I live the vertical bolts with chains, like the 3rd pitch of Rapid Transit anchor... STOUT... makes more sense than all these horizontal anchors...

Placing those must be a PITA, and you are limited to the distance between bolts due to the length of chain. If you are in good solid flat rock (which you should be in anyway), then it wouldn't be an issue (seldom do you find that out here so some hammering and/or spacing out the placements is in order), but I have no qualms with the horizontally placed bolts that you find in most spots out here.

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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

I don't like these http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ps-3/8-traditional-anchor/ so muchfor the reason Soon mention, plus it all goes down to a single ring, that, granted will probably last a while if people aren't TRing off it, but the whole contraption will need to be replaced. Vertical alignment makes sense from the vector perspective, but in good rock, with good hardware, I like horizontal, between 6 and 8 inches. That makes it easier to clip in while threading and also gives you a little more room to work.

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