If you're looking for a dense, green, creeping vine to add charm and seclusion, lift up your glass and say cheers to the Cascade Hops Plant. Known for its important contributions to ales the world over, Cascade Hops are underappreciated and often overlooked when it comes to all the advantages they provide for planting in the backyard, garden or throughout the landscape. Make no mistake, the Hops is a beautiful and elegant vine. Large, tear-shaped leaves flanked by the delicate, hops seed cones provide warm coverage whether draped over trellises, on fencing-even on top of pergolas.

Home brewers everywhere are lifting their glasses and celebrating the Centennial Hop for a variety of reasons starting with the flexibility of where you can successfully grow them. A hardy plant, the Centennial can withstand climate differences ranging from arid locations to those with lengthy rainy seasons. From New York to California, no matter where you live, growing this hop gives you an opportunity to put your own spin on quality homemade brews including pale ales, wheat beer, porter-even stout.

An American Classic is Brewing

Often compared to the Cascade Hop, Centennial has a more intense flavor. Its higher alpha acid content reduces the grapefruit-like taste of the Cascade, giving it a superior, floral-citrus quality that makes it stand out. And more alpha acid-as high as 11%--makes it a terrific dual purpose hop.

Described by enthusiasts as having a smooth bitterness with a flowery citrus kick, many home brewers haven't yet discovered the secret of the Centennial. Isn't it time you did?

Our Hops are fully rooted for at least 1 growing season. This means you are getting a significant jumpstart over starting from a rhizome or planting newly rooted plants in Spring. In fall, as they enter dormancy, our Hops are trimmed back to the soil. This actually gives the roots an extra boost of growth before they become dormant. This is extremely vantageous to our customers who choose to plant in Fall or Winter as your Hops plant will be ready to establish quickly. In its very first spring your plant will experience vigorous growth and quality hop production!

Centennial Hops Plant Pollination

Centennial Hops Plant are self-fertile. You will get fruit with only one plant. However, adding an additional pollinator will drastically increase the size of your crop. Below are the most effective pollinators we have chosen for your area...

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Planting & Care

It's Easy to Plant & Care for Your Centennial Hops Plant

Hops are flowers (also called seed cones or strobiles) that are used primarily as the flavoring and stability agent in beer. They impart bitter, tangy flavors and they are also used for various purposes in other beverages and herbal medicines. Medicinally, hops have been used as a sleeping aid, for tension relief and to improve digestion.

Choosing a location: The hop is a hardy, perennial plant vine that is easily grown at home when sufficient sun and climbing space are available. Vines can grow up to 20 feet high in a single season. Direct sunlight, easy access to water, a stable support system and plenty of room for vertical growth are necessary for the ideal growing site. Well draining, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0 - 8.0 is preferred.

Planting directions (for potted plant): Despite their large size, hops grow well in containers if provided with a sturdy trellis, abundant water and ample supplemental nutrients.

1) Grow hops in full sun. Use a container with a diameter and depth of at least 20 inches. Make sure the container has several holes in the bottom for adequate drainage. 2) Fill the container with a mix of four parts potting soil and one part *perlite. Do not tamp down the soil, as this will restrict the drainage needed.*Perlite appears as tiny, roundish white specks among the soil. Perlite is a non-organic additive used in potting soil to aerate the media. 3) Place two 8-foot-long stakes into the potting soil along the edge of the planter and put a screw at the tip of each stake. Tie "coir yarn" (also known as hop twine) onto the screw at the top of the stakes. Wind the yarn in a crisscross pattern between the stakes. Trim the ends of the yarn off once it reaches the potting soil and then tie the ends together. This will allow your hop vines to climb. 4) Plant your hops so the buds are pointed upward in a small hole roughly 2-3 inches deep. Water so the soil is damp, but not over saturated. Add some extra soil if water settles the dirt too much.

Planting directions (in ground): Sun exposure is the first key thing to consider when selecting a spot to grow your hops plants in the ground. For the most success with your plant you'll want over 10 hours of sun exposure. Typically the most light comes from Southern and Eastern exposures.

1) Select a site with light, well draining soil and a soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 8.0 2) Hops like organic nutrients. They enjoy composted manures and blends of slow release nutrients like bone meal and rock phosphate mixed into the soil when planting in the hole. 3) When planting you'll want to dig a small hole roughly 4 inches deep and then cover with 1-2 inches of soil with the hops buds pointing upward. If planting more than one hops vine space them 3-4 feet apart to keep the vines from intertwining with each other too much. 4) Trellising is very important since hops prefer to climb. Plants that are close to a fence or wall will climb along the tops of wire or lines, which you can run. This will allow you to support multiple vines.

Watering: Hops love water but only when applied directly to the root system. If the leaves get wet too often it's an opportunity for mold and mildew to form on the plant. Water your plants daily directly at their bases in order to keep the soil moist, but not over saturated. In the event of rain getting your leaves wet and the sun coming out shortly thereafter it's recommended to go out and gently shake the excess moisture off. Water droplets can form miniature lenses and burn your leaves.

Fertilizing: Hops love fertilizer. Provide your container grown hops with a liquid fertilizer diluted to quarter-strength. Start out feeding them with fertilizer that's high in nitrogen. Then when the first signs of hop cones form, move away from nitrogen rich fertilizer for fertilizers that are rich in phosphorus and potassium. After feeding the vines give them a good amount of water to keep their roots from being burned.

Pruning: When pruning be sure your trimming tool has been sterilized for healthy and clean cuts (a household rubbing alcohol works just fine for sterilization). Prune hops vines once they begin to outgrow their trellis. Remove foliage from under one foot of growth on the vine. This increases air circulation and avoids the likelihood of pest infestations and disease.

Remove vine tips once the main stem produces several branches. In the late summer the removal of lower leaves should be done carefully to avoid damaging the main stem. However, around August allow additional bottom growth to remain, as this will boost the hardiness of the crown and plant vigor for next year.

Harvesting: Harvesting usually begins in the middle of August and continues until the middle of September. Test the cones in order to be sure that its time to harvest. To determine the readiness for picking judge the cones by touch and smell. If the cone is too green, feels damp and soft to the touch on its scales then it may not be ready just yet. A cone ready for harvest will feel papery and light.

If your hands quickly take up the earthy scent of hops and are slightly sticky due to the yellow powdery lupulin (which is the yellow powder of the hop cone), then the cones are ready for harvest. Hops cones must be properly dried to optimize their flavor during storage. Store your hops in an airtight container in the freezer or refrigerator.

With some effort, plenty of space and sun, growing your own hops is easy and very fulfilling. Rumor has it that homegrown hops are the best variety because they are so flavorful and will provide much self-satisfaction.

BEST ANSWER:When the hope are ready they will have several brown tips, make a crinkling paper type noise when you squeeze them, and have a hoppy aroma. If not ready it'll be more of a moist type feel and sponge back when you squeeze them, as well as a more grassy type smell. Usually toward the top of the plant where they get more sunlight they will ripe before the more shadowed hops.

BEST ANSWER:When the hope are ready they will have several brown tips, make a crinkling paper type noise when you squeeze them, and have a hoppy aroma. If not ready it'll be more of a moist type feel and sponge back when you squeeze them, as well as a more grassy type smell. Usually toward the top of the plant where they get more sunlight they will ripe before the more shadowed hops.

BEST ANSWER:I would think it would. We have both our hops plants in the house right now. They seem to trade off on doing well. We'll get one looking good and the other goes downhill; then we doctor the failing one and the other takes a dive. But, again, I think if you've got them in a big enough pot and provide the nutrients and space they need, you shouldn't have any problems. Please let me know, because we are going to be putting in a greenhouse in the near future.Good luck.Pat in Oklahoma

BEST ANSWER:I would think it would. We have both our hops plants in the house right now. They seem to trade off on doing well. We'll get one looking good and the other goes downhill; then we doctor the failing one and the other takes a dive. But, again, I think if you've got them in a big enough pot and provide the nutrients and space they need, you shouldn't have any problems. Please let me know, because we are going to be putting in a greenhouse in the near future.Good luck.Pat in Oklahoma

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