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I have been trying to research and review what components are available for this vehicle since I have always upgraded my vehicles I don't see this one remaining stock for long either.

My questions are which manufacturer's would you recommend for the EGR/DPF Delete kits, Air Intake Systems, Programmer and an Exhaust ? I have noticed that not many components are available for the 2012's for whatever reason.

I am really trying to avoid an exhaust system or upgrades that create an annoying drone noise. I would like for it to remain rather quiet if that's possible with the upgrades I have mentioned.

I have been trying to research and review what components are available for this vehicle since I have always upgraded my vehicles I don't see this one remaining stock for long either.

My questions are which manufacturer's would you recommend for the EGR/DPF Delete kits, Air Intake Systems, Programmer and an Exhaust ? I have noticed that not many components are available for the 2012's for whatever reason.

I am really trying to avoid an exhaust system or upgrades that create an annoying drone noise. I would like for it to remain rather quiet if that's possible with the upgrades I have mentioned.

Thank you,

Michael

I would leave the engine/exhaust alone
#1 California's smog laws you get caught it is $10,000 fine
#2 Chrysler LLC will void your warranty if you do any of the listed performance modifications you listed

I am close friends with my service writer and he made it clear that I cant modify my 2012 3500 CTD like I did my Hemi and if I did my warrant would be toast. He said that Chrysler LLC is looking real hard at Mods done to CTD cause it has cost them $$ in years past.

Also why do you need more that 350 hp and 85#torque my beast has eaten everything I could throw at it no problems only thing you might gain is some MPG but is did not think it was worth the loss of 5yr 100,000 mile warranty
My .02

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Since you want it quiet just do a "DPF delete pipe". It's called a dpf delete pipe but will replace the nox and dpf with a straight piece of pipe. You will want one that has the 3 bolt flange on one end that will bolt to the stock downpipe, and the other end will slip fit into the stock muffler. The stock downpipe has a cat which will keep the exterior and interior sound from getting very loud and prevent drone. (I have had this setup on my truck) If that proved to be too loud you could splice in another muffler into the delete pipe if you needed to. I can't imagine needing to do that, but it would be an option.

For EGR, since you'll need smog check every 2 years don't remove the EGR. The tuner will disable it automatically.

For the tuner, you may or may not have heard both Smarty and H&S recently stopped selling dpf delete tuners. As far as I have seen you can still find tuners for sale though. I don't really have a recommendation between the two. I've run both and both worked. 2012 results may be different than mine. I like H&S for the gauges.

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The delete pipe... that does require a tuner or EGR delete kit to prevent throwing codes, correct?

Basically yes if you remove the DPF you need a tuner with dpf delete tuning. Otherwise it would throw codes and probably end up in some kind of limp mode. There is also another method that much fewer people seem to use... With the use of resisters connected to a few of the sensors that plug into the DPF you can trick the computer into thinking it never needs to regen... I don't know much about it. Considering the heat the tuning companies have taken recently it may start to become a more common method. Just google "6.7 cummins resistors delete" or something along those lines and I'm sure you'll find the info you need if interested.

For EGR delete on 4th gens (2010+) if you install a dpf delete tuner then you don't have to touch the EGR at all. EGR will be disabled automatically in the tuning. If you use the fooler method to delete the DPF I'm not sure that there is any way to avoid throwing a code if you unplug or remove the EGR, but it's not something I am very familiar with so I don't know for sure.

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hmmm... what kind of gas mileage can the 6.7 get when you delete the dpf. its pretty horrific stock as i understand.

I am currently getting 14-15 around town and 18 on short freeway runs completely stock, then again it barely has 1k miles on the truck at the moment either. Would kind of like to know the same information myself.

Just basically trying to gauge what to begin planning towards/around so I don't have to do the upgrades multiple times.

A big thing is gonna depend on the gears... I've got 4.10s so I'm hitting 2k RPMs at 70. But on my daily drive where I'm running 55 or so, I've been able to get my EVIC as high as 16.5... but it's usually in the 15-15.5 range.

I just bought a 6.7 stroker. ( Cummins is the mess that Strokin leaves behind). I'm doing a dpf delete on Friday. It will help your mpg's a lot. Egr.. Exhaust gas recirculator. Meaning it recycles gas back into motor. If u take off filter then soot just exits exhaust faster. Instead of staying in filter and then making truck go into regen. Delete it.

I just bought a 6.7 stroker. ( Cummins is the mess that Strokin leaves behind). I'm doing a dpf delete on Friday. It will help your mpg's a lot. Egr.. Exhaust gas recirculator. Meaning it recycles gas back into motor. If u take off filter then soot just exits exhaust faster. Instead of staying in filter and then making truck go into regen. Delete it.

It's obvious why you went with a ford.... your knowledge of diesel emissions is lacking.

First, EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) takes spent emissions from the exhaust manifold, cools it and then reinserts it into the incoming air stream. The purpose being to reduce the amount of free oxygen available for combustion. By doing so, the temperature of combustion is lowered to reduce the amount of NOx produced in the cylinder. This makes the engine inefficient for fuel use and in addition it promotes the creation of soot.

NOx and soot have an inverse relationship in the cylinder. NOx is created during highly efficient, hot burns... this is also when the least amount of soot is created. Soot being created during inefficient and/or cold burns where NOx is created at lower levels.

Second, the DPF while in place to trap soot particles before they can exit the system, doesn't cause near the loss of fuel efficiency that the EGR system does. There are pages and pages of anecdotal evidence on of diesel specific forums. If the truck is used as a truck, which is unlikely in the event of a Ford, then the DPF will passively regenerate more than it actively regenerates. Passive regeneration is done at no cost to you fuel economy.

Third, your Ford is also utilizing SCR. SCR allows higher levels of NOx to be created in the cylinder which in turn promotes a more efficient burn and less soot. Your use of EGR will be lower and the soot load will be lower (than a non-SCR engine).

Deleting the DPF will have some effect but you get more bang by deleting the EGR assuming you have a tuner capable of modifying the programming to eliminate any derate that comes from doing so.

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