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This guide demonstrates how to build a kegerator that utilizes a cornelius 5-gallon ball lock keg and has a tap (faucet) with shank installed in its door. It is relatively simple to build this type of kegerator, yet the kegerator will dispense your superb homebrew without compromise.

Obtain a refrigerator that will fit at least one 5-gallon (18.92 liters) cornelius keg plus a 5 lb (2.26kg) CO2 tank with attached regulator. Many compact refrigerators may not have large enough inner dimensions, especially if they have freezer compartments.

The Sanyo SR-4912M 4.9 cu ft (138.75 liters) compact refrigerator is an excellent, popular choice for a dedicated kegerator that can accommodate a single cornelius keg and a 5 lb (2.26kg) CO2 tank. It has a stainless steel door with black body and does not have a freezer compartment. There is an identical version of refrigerator that has been sold under the Kenmore brand, but it may no longer be available (although check online auctions as one possible source).

The end of the shank will protrude through the door and will be fastened from the inside with a fitting that screws onto the shank, so the inner surface of the door where the shank is located must be flat. It’s common to place the tap and shank somewhere along the vertical centerline of the door. Place it more than four or five inches (10cm to 12.5cm) from the edges of the door. It may be advisable to not place it toward the side of the door that opens (opposite the hinges) because the shank will be attached to the beer line inside the kegerator. Every time you open the door, the beer line will move, and you don’t want it to be forced outwards too far when you open the door. It can also obstruct access to the gas cylinder in the kegerator or get tangled up on the gas cylinder or regulator, and you want to prevent the gas cylinder from falling over, as well as the keg.

Drill the hole in the door.Drill a hole for the shank through the refrigerator door with a hole saw. If using a standard shank that is 7/8” (22.2mm) in diameter, drill the hole using a 1” (2.5cm) hole saw.

Before drilling, align the hole saw and drill so that you will drill a level hole straight through the door.

Continue drilling. It may be somewhat difficult to drill through the metal skin of the refrigerator with the hole saw. As soon as the hole saw cuts completely through the metal skin of the refrigerator, cease drilling and remove the cut-out metal circle from the hole saw.

Now drill all the way through the foam and inner plastic skin of the door. Don’t push much on the drill because the hole saw will cut through the foam and plastic very easily. After drilling, clean up the foam and plastic particles.

Optional: After drilling and cleaning the hole, smear some DAP household aquarium-safe sealant/adhesive over the exposed foam inside the hole. This will prevent foam particles from getting on the shank when you insert or remove the shank from the hole. However, you will need to let the sealant dry before inserting the shank, and it will generally not be necessary to remove the shank once it’s installed unless you prefer to disassemble it for cleaning rather than run beer line cleaner through it.

Assemble the gas components. Before beginning, make sure the CO2 tank is completely shut off and the regulator is off/dialed or adjusted to zero pressure with its barbed shutoff valve closed. Note that some regulators can only be dialed to output CO2 when connected to a CO2 tank. The gas hose (usually 5/16" (7.93mm) ID gas line) that connects to the keg via the ball lock gas disconnect will be attached to the regulator’s barbed shutoff valve. The regulator is attached to the CO2 tank with the large 1 1/8” (26.81mm) tank nut. It is best to use a double-gauge regulator, but a single-gauge regulator will work fine as well. As pictured, the lower gauge (left side) indicates the pressure in the CO2 tank, while the upper gauge indicates the pressure in the keg. Single-gauge regulators only show the pressure in the keg. The knob in the center of the regulator (which is sometimes a bolt or screw) is used to adjust the pressure in the keg. As pictured, the barb with the red lever is the shutoff valve that will be connected to the keg gas line. If desired, install a gauge cage on the regulator. This will help to prevent your gauges from being damaged or coming loose if your CO2 tank falls over or your regulator is otherwise impacted.

Assemble the gas line and attach it to the regulator. First cut a 3 or 4-foot (91.44cm to 1.21 meters) segment of gas hose. Use 5/16” (7.93mm) thick-walled gas hose with a standard 3/8” (9.52mm) regulator hose barb. Slide a hose clamp onto the hose and push the hose onto the regulator’s shutoff valve hose barb. It should be difficult to push on the hose, so gradually work it onto the barb. Secure it with the hose clamp. If you are using a ball lock gas disconnect with a threaded fitting, use a wrench to securely attach the barb to the quick disconnect before attaching it to the hose. Slide a hose clamp onto the far end of the gas line and push the gas quick disconnect barb into the hose. Secure it with the hose clamp.

With the tank and regulator shut completely off, securely attach the regulator with complete gas line to the CO2 tank with a large wrench (1.5" wrench recommended). Because the gas disconnect seals itself when not connected to a keg, the CO2 tank’s primary shutoff can be opened briefly while the tank's main valve is opened to test for leaks at the regulator/tank connection and in the gas line (use soapy water and look for bubbles). However, always use very low pressure (such as 5 PSI or less) via the regulator when testing for leaks. The lower gauge should indicate that the tank contains pressurized CO2. Set the regulator to zero pressure and turn off the regulator’s shutoff valve to prevent CO2 from entering the gas line.

If desired, integrate a check valve into the gas line. Check valves prevent beer from entering the gas line and potentially ruining your regulator or contaminating your gas line. The topmost pictured device is a 1/4” (6.35mm) regulator shutoff valve that has a check valve built into it. It can be used to replace regulator shutoff valves that do not have check valves built into them. Be sure to wrap the threads of the shutoff valve with Teflon tape before screwing it tightly into the regulator so that gas leakage does not occur. To determine if a regulator’s shutoff valve has a check valve, unscrew it from a disconnected, unpressurized regulator and turn the shutoff valve on and off. If you do not see the valve opening and closing inside it, it has a check valve. The second pictured device is a check valve that is connected to the far end of the gas line, so it is connected between the keg’s gas line quick disconnect and the far end of gas line itself. It was purchased pre-assembled as pictured from a homebrew shop (the homebrew shop buys them from a distributor as is). It has a brass barb that will connect to a 5/16” (7.93mm) gas line and a short segment of pre-attached hose that will connect to the smaller 1/4” (6.35mm) barb of a standard gas disconnect (so you would not want to use a gas disconnect with a 5/16” (7.93mm) barb).

To assemble beer line that is used with a separate tailpiece, first slide two hose clamps and the wing nut onto the hose. Then soften both ends of the hose by holding them in hot water (hot enough to make tea with) for about 30 seconds. Then push the tailpiece’s barb into the end of the hose with the wing nut’s larger opening that will screw onto the end of the shank facing the tailpiece.

Finally, slide one of the hose clamps to the back of the wing nut. Make sure there’s a small gap between the wing nut and the hose clamp so that the wing nut can rotate around the tailpiece when you’re screwing the wing nut onto the shank. Then tighten the hose clamp so that it secures the tailpiece. Finally, secure the disconnects barb with the remaining hose clamp.

If using a shank with a unified tailpiece, push the hose onto the tailpiece and secure with a hose clamp. It may be necessary to heat the end of the hose in hot water to soften it before it can be pushed onto the tailpiece.

Connect the keg to the tap and CO2 tank. Note that it is best to first place the full, disconnected keg in the kegerator before attaching the gas and beer lines to prevent shaking or otherwise agitating it.

The bottom portion of the ball lock gas and liquid disconnects are pulled up when connecting them to the keg (gas IN disconnect is shown, but the liquid OUT disconnect will be attached first).

Make sure (again) that the tap is in the closed position. Fully open the main CO2 tank valve. Open the regulator’s shutoff valve. Adjust the gas pressure in the keg to about 12 PSI using the regulator’s adjustment knob.

Try pouring some beer. If it foams too much you can lower the pressure to 10 PSI, but be aware that pressures lower than about 12 PSI will usually allow gas bubbles to form in the beer line that will cause foaming. If the beer doesn’t foam at 12 PSI, see if it’s OK at 14 PSI, which is often a fine dispensing pressure (unless the beer foams at this higher pressure). 12 PSI should be perfectly fine as well in most cases.

Before adjusting the pressure in the keg you must first dial down the regulator to zero pressure, so it is shut off. Then pull the relief valve on the keg and vent all the pressure from the keg (this will happen very quickly). Then close or seal the relief valve and re-pressurize the keg to the desired pressure using the regulator.

Be aware that if your beer or kegerator is warmer, a higher pressure will be needed, while lower temperatures require lower pressures for beer dispense. It may be necessary to adjust the pressure a few times to get the best pour.

A “balanced” system will not produce overly foamy beer. This means that adequate CO2 pressure can be applied to prevent foam-causing gas bubbles from forming in the beer line, and the required pressure will not produce overly foamy beer. If your beer foams at 12 PSI, you may need to increase the length of your beer line.

If desired, install a drip tray. Drip trays will keep beer from dripping onto the floor, and are a handy place to set down foamy glasses. Drip trays are secured with two or more self-tapping screws that will be included with the tray, so no pre-drilling is required. The drip tray's screw holes will allow the trip tray to be removed from the door. The drip tray should be centered directly under the tap, and leveled with a level. Allow for adequate space between the tap and the drip tray so that you can readily put glasses under the tap with plenty of room to spare. When you know exactly where to set the drip tray, mark the drip tray's screw holes with a pencil while holding it against the kegerator's door, then line it up with the holes and secure it using an electric drill (it should be possible to use a regular screwdriver, but it may be somewhat difficult). Do not overly tighten the screws against the drip tray, as the drip tray will be pulled free from the screws for regular cleaning.

Things You'll Need

Parts needed:

Refrigerator that can accommodate at least one 5-gallon (18.92 liters) cornelius keg and one 5 lb (2.26kg) CO2 tank with attached regulator

5-gallon (18.92kg) ball-lock cornelius keg

Shank (this will pass through the refrigerator door and connect the tap to the beer line). It must be somewhat longer than the thickness of the door. A 4 1/8”-long shank was used with the Kenmore version of the Sanyo Sr-4912M that was used for this article. A shank with either a 3/16” (4.76mm) or 1/4” (6.35mm) bore will work. If using a shank with a unified tailpiece, it should also be 3/16” (4.76mm) or 1/4” (6.35mm).

Tailpiece, neoprene washer, and wing nut for shank if not using a shank with a unified tailpiece. The tailpiece should be 3/16” for 3/16” (4.76mm) beverage hose. A 1/4” (6.35mm) tailpiece will work, but the end of the vinyl beverage hose must be heated in very hot water to soften it before the tailpiece’s barb can be pressed into it.

Tap (beer faucet or spigot).

Tap handle.

Ball lock disconnects (one for the gas line and one for the liquid line). These are available with permanently attached barbs or with barbs assemblies that are screwed onto 1/4” (6.35mm) MFL male threaded fittings. Most disconnects will have 1/4” (6.35mm) or 3/16” (4.76mm)barbs that will fit 3/16” (4.76mm) beverage hose. It also appears that disconnects that are sold as being 1/4” (6.35mm) are in fact 3/16” (4.76mm). The gas line disconnects that have barbs that are screwed on can have either 1/4” (6.35mm) or 5/16” (7.93mm) barbs. Match the barb size of the gas disconnects with the gas hose size (stated as the ID or inner diameter).

Single or double-gauge regulator. Note that the regulator’s barbed outlet shutoff valve that connects to the gas line is usually 3/8” (9.52mm). This size barb is meant to fit 5/16” (7.93mm) hose. If you will be using a ball lock disconnect that has a 1/4” (6.35mm) barb, the disconnect must be connected to 1/4” hose, not 5/16” (7.93mm) hose. There are at least two ways to connect a 1/4” (6.35mm) disconnect with a standard regulator. The first way is to replace the regulator’s 3/8” barbed shutoff valve with a 1/4” (6.35mm) barbed shutoff valve. Use a shutoff valve that has a built-in check a valve that will keep beer from entering the regulator, even if the original shutoff valve did not have a check valve. The second way is to attach a check valve assembly to the end of the gas line that has a 3/8” (9.52mm) barb on one end and a connection for the disconnects 1/4” (6.35mm) barb or thread on the other end.

Full 5 lb (2.26kg) CO2 tank. This is the smallest size CO2 tank. If using a large refrigerator or if the CO2 tank will be kept outside the refrigerator, it may be more practical and economical to use a larger CO2 tank (you’ll need to have it filled less often and it usually cost the same to fill 5 lb (2.26kg) and 10 lb (4.53kg) CO2 tanks). A hole can be drilled in the refrigerator for the gas line, but instructions for this are not included in this article. You can have your CO2 tank filled at some homebrew shops, welding shops, and gas suppliers like Metheson Tri-Gas.

3 to 4 feet of gas line hose (usually 5/16” (7.93mm) ID but sometimes 1/4” (6.35mm) ID). This hose is typically made of vinyl (or PVC). The hose must be thick-walled because it must be able to hold pressure. When using a standard regulator with a 3/8” (9.52mm) shutoff valve and a ball lock quick disconnect that has a threaded 5/16” (7.93mm) barb assembly, use 5/16” (7.93mm) gas line. Gas line that is 1/4” (6.35mm) can be used with 1/4” (6.35mm) fittings.

4 to 5 feet (1.21m to 1.52m) of 3/16” (4.76mm) ID beverage line hose. This hose must be thick-walled and able to hold pressure. It’s important that the hose not be much shorter than 4 feet (1.21m) because the hose’s length helps to prevent foaming. The hose’s small inner diameter also prevents foaming.

Four stainless steel worm gear hose clamps. Use two for the gas line and two for the liquid line. Clamps that fit a maximum diameter of 1/2” (1.27cm) OD can be used for 3/16” (4.76mm) ID beverage hose and 5/16” (7.93mm) ID gas hose. Clamps that fit a maximum diameter of 7/8” (2.22cm) will fit the 5/16” (7.93mm) gas hose.

About This Article

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 13 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 245,505 times.

To build a homebrew kegerator, you'll need a refrigerator that can hold a 5-gallon keg and a 5-pound CO2 tank with a regulator attached. To get started, drill a hole through the fridge door and assemble the CO2 tank and regulator. Then, attach a shank to a tap and insert the shank in the hole you drilled. Next, run a beer line from the tap to the CO2 tank. Finally, install a drip tray on the front of the fridge door, underneath the tap. To learn how to assemble your kegerator, keep reading!