Your motor has a centrifugal switch built onto it that switches from the start winding to the run winding automatically. Most of the time this is a seamless operation that occurs in less than 1 second when the motor is started. The motor is the only component that will dim your lights, unless you have a loose Neutral connection in the wall somewhere.

Since this motor has 2 different directions that the motor must turn in order to agitate and spin, the centrifugal switch must do a lot of work. There is no solenoid. The direct drive washer manual is on this forum in the manuals section if you'd like to review the mechanics.

There is an outside chance that something could be lodged in the pump, causing the motor to bind up some and cut out. Try taking off the cabinet and disconnecting the pump from the motor shaft and running it again to see if this happens. You can jumper the lid switch to run the machine with the cabinet off.

could it still be the motor if the first rinse cycle spins fine but the higher speed 2nd cycle seems to have trouble. stills spins but i think it shold spin faster?also is a motor replacement easy? worth the money?

I recently worked on a washer that did the clicking and what it was doing was starting and stoping every second. Weirdest crap I ever seen. But I drank a few beers and watched that sucker for a while and the motor got slower and slower and got noticably hot. But this was on a washer with a speed control on it and that threw me off the trail for a while. I finally setteled on bad motor. Nobody in this forum answered my question either, but then... I ask some pretty damn hard to answer questions.

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