I think they look great @IronPenguin!Though I do agree, especially for older cars like this before tinted window became the norm, opening up those windows will make a significant difference. Once you get into tinted window cars, printing them solid and painting windows black works pretty good. Here's an example of solid cars,tinted vs non-tinted:

I mentioned a few weeks ago in another thread that I've been testing clear resin as well as press-fit parts. Coincidentally, it's with windows and auto cabs. Even more coincidentally, its with the F100 truck! I got to looking at the Atlas F100 and how the individual pieces come together. It's quite well engineered, so I decided to see how well I could 3D print a replacement cab and window set.

I didn't waste any time with aesthetics as I focused purely on mechanical fitting. Not bad at all if I say so myself!

The 3D printed window on the Frankentruck was hastily covered with a few coats of UV Cut gloss from Mr.Hobby. For being brush painted, it looks much better in person, but still not as clear as the second attempt. The glass part on the left was dunked in floor gloss a few times, then coated in UV Cut Gloss. Relatively speaking, I think they're quite reasonable for N Scale vehicle glass, though empirically, they got' nothin' on the original molded glass. Perhaps the biggest factor in that is the thickness; the 3D print glass is about twice as thick.

And of course the other part of the test is dimensional accuracy. This proves that N Scale sized 3D prints can press fit! (My successful functional fit parts aren't ready to show off yet )

Nice. Have you tried polishing the resin? Way back when resins were dark golden HAZMAT materials, I polished an SLA 500 practice part's surface until I could quite clearly see the interior printed walls, and it really did not take that much work.

Nice. Have you tried polishing the resin? Way back when resins were dark golden HAZMAT materials, I polished an SLA 500 practice part's surface until I could quite clearly see the interior printed walls, and it really did not take that much work.

I did sand down the layer lines on the 2nd attempt, but I wouldn't call it polished by a long shot.

Is there actually room for an interior and the press fit glass? Looks like a real tight squeeze given the thickness of the glass.

Another thought... print the whole thing in clear and paint everything but the glass? LOL.

Actually that is a valid idea, and has been done. Williams Bros. used to make a series of H0 scale vehicle kits all injection-molded in clear styrene. As you said, you had to paint everything that was not glass. I have build few of those and they came out really nice.

Actually that is a valid idea, and has been done. Williams Bros. used to make a series of H0 scale vehicle kits all injection-molded in clear styrene. As you said, you had to paint everything that was not glass. I have build few of those and they came out really nice.

I have been looking for a way to produce the dome for the old, corrugated silver B&O dome cars. Those 3 cars (which were originally built for Chessie) had distinctive, unusual, hard to model features, including: (1) dome ends had different angles, (2) first window section on side of dome top was flat and angled downward toward the car sides, (3), second window section was curved down to verticle at car sides, and, worst of all, (4) the "verticle" frames to the curved window sides were not actually verticle, but slanted one way.

So, printing that in AnyCubic "clear" might finally give me a way to make such a car in N scale. All I would need is the dome; the rest I can kit-bash.

Is there actually room for an interior and the press fit glass? Looks like a real tight squeeze given the thickness of the glass.

Another thought... print the whole thing in clear and paint everything but the glass? LOL.

That test is assembled with the 3D printed cab and glass over the Atlas Chassis and interior. I could probably shave 40% of the thickness off the 3D printed glass too.

And before all this, I did do a test with a solid clear vehicle! It looks OK, although I did it on the Jeep Cherokee, which looks odd without tinted windows. I think it would definitely be worth a test on the solid F100 or muscle car.