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Change your white balance during a sunrise or sunset. Take your camera off auto white balance and switch to Cloudy or Shady white balance. This will add more strength to the reds, oranges and yellows. Auto White Balance tries to keep colors neutral.

Looking for inspiration for your photography? Look no further than Learn & Explore, the area on the Nikonusa website that is packed full of educational articles, how-to tutorials and inspirational pieces on all sorts of photography topics.

Carry your camera manual, especially if your camera is new. When traveling you'll probably have a chance to try some new shots. It can also be the time you’re likely to forget the function of a particular button. Or you may just want to explore all the cool things today’s cameras offer.

Experiment with the white balance settings outside. White balance on your camera will alter the color temperature and appearance you get in your picture. For instance, a CLOUDY setting will give your pictures a warmer cast. The FLUORESCENT setting will make your photographs cooler, skewing to a purple cast.

When traveling abroad, check the power setting and type of plugs. Most modern chargers do both 110 volts (USA) and 220 volts (most of the rest of the world). Check yours, and then pick the right adapter for the plug. Be careful to not use a 110-volt power strip in higher-voltage countries.

Turn on the lights when shooting inside the house. Lamps and overhead lights will brighten any picture indoors. The light will add depth to the picture and often warm up the color. Most importantly, it will brighten up the background.

Be creative with your posing. Don't just line everybody up. Use the steps or the arm of a couch to experiment with some people standing and others sitting. Have kids sitting in laps or someone sitting on the floor or kneeling. Mix it up.

Get yourself in the picture. Nothing is worse than a vacation with no shots of the family photographer. Get in the picture by using a tripod (or a steady surface such as a wall or a car hood) and the camera’s self-timer to make sure you're included in the family memories.

Jump for fun. Have your kids line up for a picture. As the photographer, get low, and get ready to shoot. Have the kids all jump in the air at the same time. Capturing them mid jump can bring out their true personalities.

When photographing a lot of people at a party, use your camera’s Smart Portrait System to help you get better pictures. The blink mode lets you know if your subjects blinked, and the smile timer can snap the photo when the camera sees that your subjects are smiling.

Try turning off your flash at night to get what your eye really sees. If it's at all dark or dim, the camera will try to fire the flash. Find the flash off icon (usually a lightning bolt with a line through it) and select it. Make sure to hold steady, or use a tripod, because the shutter speed may be slow.

Use the pet scene mode when photographing cats and dogs. If your camera doesn’t have a pet mode, disable the audible beeps and focus assist lamps while photographing them so the lights and sounds aren’t a distraction.

Go shooting with a friend. Not only will you add another pair of eyes to find interesting subjects, but you’ll also feed off of each other’s ideas and energy. Try to organize regular shoots in the park. Share lenses or tips on making that unforgettable photo.

Use fill flash to add a little sparkle to your subject’s eyes when shooting portraits outdoors, during the day. Even in bright sunlight, fill flash can even out the lighting for a more pleasing photograph.

Compose photos using the “rule of thirds.” Think of the frame as being broken into nine rectangles (like a tic-tac-toe grid over the picture). Place your subject at one of the intersections of the lines for a more visually stimulating photo.

When shooting an image that has a subject looking off to one side, compose your photograph so there is more space where the subject is looking. This will give your photograph more of a natural feeling.

When shooting landscapes at dusk or nighttime, use a tripod and cable release or self-timer so you can slow down the shutter speed to let in more light. This is the technique used when you see pictures of car lights as lines, not pinpoints.

One of the rules of composition says that horizon lines should not be placed in the center of an image, but closer to the top or bottom of the frame. Sometimes rules are meant to be broken. When you’re photographing a subject and its reflection, its perfectly fine to place the horizon in the center of the frame.

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An anti-reflective coating developed by Nikon that virtually eliminates internal lens element reflections across a wide range of wavelengths.

ED (Extra-Low Dispersion) Glass

An optical glass developed by Nikon that is used with normal optical glass in telephoto lenses to obtain optimum correction of chromatic aberrations.

M/A

Select NIKKOR lenses have a focusing mode which allows switching from automatic to manual focusing with virtually no lag time by simply turning the focusing ring on the lens.

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A/M stands for Auto-Priority Manual Mode. This mode also enables an easy transition from autofocus to manual during AF operation. However, mode switch sensitivity has been altered to reduce the possibility of sudden unintentional switching to manual focus while shooting.

IF Lens

A NIKKOR lens in which only the internal lens group shifts during focusing. These lenses will be designated with the abbreviation IF on the lens barrel.

Based on CIPA Standard. This value is achieved when: FX-format compatible lenses are attached to an FX-format digital SLR camera.

Practice first-perfection latter!
Great lens for wildlife, but is does take some getting use to. I spent time in the back yard and forest preserve just getting the hang of it and it did really pay off. Simple issues such as going to manual focus, framing shots and even how your mounting equipment behaves changes when jumping to this monster lens. I even took to upgrading my tripod and mounting head because there will be some drift with lesser products. All that being said, its sharp and brings one so much closer to the subject, as expected when going from a 200mm even with a 2.0x teleconverter. Its heavy to carry around, and I would recommend getting a soft hood that packs so much easier into a back pack when traveling and hiking out in the wilderness.
Bottom line, take the jump, practice and surround the lens with crew of quality supporting equipment and you'll be happy you did.
December 5, 2013

Crazy sharp lens!
I have spent quite a few years as a passionate nature photographer and I can say that this is the best investment I have ever made towards my nature photography.
This lens is one awesome piece of engineering.
The optical quality of the lens is as good as it gets, bird feathers and details are razor sharp, so much in fact with the copy I own the that my images have taken on a new dimension of clarity, even when comparing to my 300mm f/2.8 lens, which is well known for it's incredible sharpness.
The out of focus "bokeh" is rich, butter smooth and creamy and really isolates your subjects with spectacular "painted" backgrounds.
It is also amazing with a 1.4x teleconverter and will still retain good results with a 2.0x teleconverter as a 1200mm f8 lens with manual focus and very good technique.
I use this lens with my Nikon D700 and the AF system is very accurate, even in low light situations.
This lens needs solid support and good technique to master. It is far from easy to carry around.
Lugging this beast around will give you a good workout.
May 17, 2013

An outstanding piece of glass
I have tried an after market brand lens in this class of lens and it it was just soft plain and simple, but I mounted this to my Really Right Stuff Full Gimbal head and tripod and instant success with sharp vivid focus thanks to the VR and fast Auto Focus this lens has teamed up with my D3x, I can't wait to try this out on the wild life this upcoming spring.
Don't let the weight fool you, this is not a lens that can be carried all day by the average hobbyist, take care in planning your shooting trips with this lens and how you will pack it in and out of your shooting location and take care in selecting tripods and heads to mount this lens it will save you hours of grief in trashing photos because of unwanted shake usually caused by the shooter, but at faster shutter speeds above 1/125th it is a dream to use, not saying you cant shoot at slower shutter speeds, but a good support system and cable release will yield better results.
But if you want to reach out and take in the wildlife at a safer distant and not put the critters under strain so they will allow you to stay within there presence much longer then this is the lens to buy.
January 13, 2012

This lens is a dream.
The Nikkor 600mm is a real workhorse....easy to use, pin-point sharp, and reliable. It's super fast and always delivers ! I also love the 500mm and the 200-400mm is amazing as well!
October 4, 2011

Incredible
I wanted to shoot birds and wildlife and I looked at the Nikon 500 mm along with the Nikon 200 mm to 400 mm and didn't think that they would give me the reach I wanted.
I have had the 600 mm for a couple of weeks now and it has knocked me out with the razor sharp pictures it makes. The AF is fast and the Image Stabilization will let you shoot at shutter speeds that should be impossible.
the 600 is a huge piece of glass that tells you every time you pick it up that it is a substantially built device. I have been shooting mostly handheld and after several hours of hoisting it around you will feel it the next day.
But its worth it every ounce when as it makes pictures that are simply amazing.
June 16, 2011

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but with a big glass such as 600mm, i think it would do justice to this lens to have a more appropriate camera body to maximize its capability.

Mar 24, 2013 by

by

auckhs

+1point

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The AF-S II does not have VR and was intoduced in 2002, the AF-S Nikkor 600mm f/4G ED VR is the newer lens introduced in 2007. (Nikon does not designate it as VRII but lists it as VRII in the product description) You can tell VRII from VR as the lettering on the lens barrel would be red for VR and gold for VRII.

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sports and birds is are my interests. 200mm next for bugs. But for now Big glass or smaller glass with options?

3 years, 8 months ago by

by

chris

moorpark, ca

Location :

moorpark, ca

Age: 45-54

Favorite Subject: Nature

Nikon Family: 11-20 years

Experience: More than 10 years

Role: Serious passion, hobbyist

1 answer

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Tough choice, both have their benefits, 400 obviously faster but lacing the range though still would be reasonably fast with a 1.4 or 1.7 tc. Personally id go for the 600mm for wildlife, chuck a 1.4 on there and you have 840mm of reach to play with which is great for things like small birds where you cant get close. Im lucky enough to have a 200-400 which is superb but sometimes find it a little short at 400mm hence is quite often use the 1.4tc on it, so the 400, i think, would be a little short though it is widely used for sports and is very good at it. There is not that much difference in price to be fair so it would be down to you to decide what is right for your needs, i would strongly suggest that you rent both before stumping up the cash, that way you can put them through thier paces without spending a kings ransom only to find you have made the wrong choice.

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The older manual versions had a 122mm UV filter available, does this lens have the capability to accept a front filter? I'd like protection for that vulnerable front element.

3 years, 7 months ago by

by

OpticalArtisan

Central California Coast

Location :

Central California Coast

Age: 45-54

Favorite Subject: Nature

Nikon Family: 21+ years

Experience: Less than a month

Role: Semi-professional photographer

1 answer

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