Chaps I want to hollow. Nothing too complicated, nothing very deep. To start with I'd like to do some pot pourri bowls and would like to be able to hollow out the sides a bit and get under the rim, more so than I can manage with the "straight" tools.

I would welcome some opinions as to what tool to start with. Easy to master ( if that is possible ) and the ability to sharpen on the Pro Edge are important factors. Low cost would also help but birthday approaching

advTHANKSance

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Andy

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thanks Doug, I am not sure I would know where to start making things from metal especially the hooked ones for undercutting.

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Andy

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Have 3 of his smaller conical cutter tools I prefer them they do a neater job on all size of turnings.

Richard

Thanks Richard,Is there a real advantage to this type of tool over the multi tip type tools from the likes of Robert Sorby?

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Andy

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Andy the multi tip from Sorby is more like a scraper than a cutting tool, I found it a little course to use.The other option other than carbide tip is the sheilded cutter like the Hamlet, Rolly Munroe & Sorby I found these were great with wet timber, with dry the cutter used to clog quite a bit.If you don't fancy making one the Simon Hope range is very good, I have a couple of his early carbide tipped tools & they are very good. He stands at most of the big woodworking shows, if you get the opportunity it's well worth seeing his demonstration.

Have 3 of his smaller conical cutter tools I prefer them they do a neater job on all size of turnings.

Richard

Thanks Richard,Is there a real advantage to this type of tool over the multi tip type tools from the likes of Robert Sorby?

Hi AndyThe Simon breed would be of a great advantage where you live with so much raw timber available. Partially shape & hollow the new wet wood make it easier to season without splitting. As they move during drying you get a interesting arrangements of shapes completely un-customable, these do attract the eye.

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The back one it the Sorby tool you linked to, I bought this about 10 years ago & if I'm honest gets the least use for hollowing though I find it handy for other tasks.In front of that is a tool I made to hold the Hamlet little brother tip & shield, as I said previously it works great on unseasoned timber, if you look closely the cutter is clogged, I obviously put it back in the rack & reached for a different tool rather than clear it out.Next up is a Skewchigouge, this is made from 5/8" bar that Barry Iles was kind enough to grind up for me on a visit to his workshop quite a few years ago, I use it for many things as it's a very versatile tool & would be easy to make.The front three are Simon Hope tools, these get the most use for hollowing they are a pleasure to use, I didn't realise they were as costly as your link shows as I was lucky enough to be introduced to Simon at the time he bought this range out & he did me a deal on the three tools & a handle.My favourite of the three is the small one which doesn't fit in a handle it just has a foam grip, you can undercut a rim with it so don't necessarily need the cranked tool unless you are hollowing through a narrow opening, so if I was only going for one I'd definitely opt for this one

Hi AndyWith the exception of the saw bench in Doug reply my photo is the same layout starting with the 8mm with foam comfy handle. I always start hollowing with this. I find boring a hole to start can generate a lot of heat especially with wet wood, the wood does manage to keep the heat for a long time, not good.Know many will poo hoo this, I have mentioned it to Simon H and others and they say what you do is working "DO IT".I personally dislike scraper type tools, but needs must.Hope this helps Andy

The cutting "disks" on the Hope tools look tiny. How are the kept sharp?

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Andy

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The cutters are not meant to be sharpened and doing so can make the cuts worse. When you feel that the blade is dull, loosen the Torx holding screw and rotate the cutter by 90° for a completely new edge. Spare cutters cost £15 but you shouldn't need to replace them that often.

I am surprised that this information is not available on his website.

So a follow on question, sorry, and it's a how long is a piece of string question, sorry again.

Have you had to reposition or replace the cutters and if so after how long?

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Andy

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Hi AndyI have had to put onto a new face twice now in some 3 years. Each time was during hollowing out some case hardened oak I retrieved from a ancient barn, I won't mention what it did to my CTC saw bench blade. Im not going down that route again.

Not been on for a while Andy (Busy writing articles two for a woodworking magazine) I have the crown Revolution set up and find it great I also use the Robert Sorby Hollowmaster so between them I can produce something like you are trying to do.I also hollowed the main base part of this using them

You have given me two more options to consider, which I think is a help

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Andy

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Like most things the more you have to look at the harder it can be to make a final decision. When i got mine I phoned Mark Sanger and he was very helpful, even though he sells the crown he did go through a couple of others which he had used.

I still have another article to write so may go absent again but that will be a little later on

Derek, will the crown revolution work equally well in end and side grain hollowing?

On price, especially when delivery here is taken into account, suitability for the project in hand and the fact I can order from Axminster with other stuff, it appears to be the preferred choice at the moment.

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Andy

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Andyp wrote:Derek, will the crown revolution work equally well in end and side grain hollowing?

On price, especially when delivery here is taken into account, suitability for the project in hand and the fact I can order from Axminster with other stuff, it appears to be the preferred choice at the moment.

Yes it will, like most things it takes a little practice to get use to it. And set it up for for minimum cutting until you get use to it