“Rip Currents … What Every Water User Needs to Know” by Tim Jones

Rips are, to most of us, a fantastic aid to our surfing when understood. They help us pass out through waves to the takeoff area and often they define the “peak” and create a better breaking wave.

So what are rips? A definition from the US Coast Guard …

RIP CURRENTS ARE POWERFUL CHANNELS OF WATER FLOWING QUICKLY AWAY FROM SHORE … WHICH OCCUR MOST OFTEN AT LOW SPOTS OR BREAKS IN THE SANDBAR AND IN THE VICINITY OF ROCKS AND STRUCTURES SUCH AS GROINS, JETTIES AND PIERS

However, they can also be a source of danger especially to those who are unaware of their existence. So here are a few interesting facts and basic statistics.

Annually, in the US, there are on average 100+ deaths from rips. In the UK, two in every three (2/3) water rescues are because of rips. Rips in the UK account for more deaths than bicycle accidents!

In Australia (2004‚ 2012), deaths per year attributable to Rips = 21; Cyclones = 7.5; Bush fires = 5.9; Floods = 4.3; and Sharks = 1. So when many beach goers in some parts of the world fear a shark attack, they would be far better served to understand and spot rips and respect the dangers they represent.

So how do we change the stats?

We, as surfers, can pass on this basic knowledge to others, surfers, or not. Remembering the US Coast Guard definition above, and observing the simple diagram of how rips work below, we can understand a few key principles.

There are a few different types of rip and these are:

Permanent or Topographic

Fixed

Flash

Travelling or Side Rip. Not long shore drift.

The Permanent or Topographic Rip

Let’s look at how each is defined. Firstly, the Permanent or Topographic rip uses physical features at the beach such as: rocks, piers, groins, sea walls and the water (rip), running out along these features. To help you find it, just look at how next to the feature there seems to be an area of calm water with little or no waves. In this picture below you can see the rip passing along the beach towards the cliffs. This is our Travelling or Side Rip. Then you can clearly see where it passes along the rocks and heads out to sea causing a clear path in the water. Look for the dark blue line with the white water each side. You can clearly see its path along the rocks and out to sea. Check how, as it moves away from the rocks, it loses it power and dissipates.

In this picture from Australia, the lifeguards have placed a coloured dye in the water to define the Permanent or Topographic rip.

The Fixed Rip

It’s quite a misleading name, “Fixed”, as these are rips that stay in one general area of a beach, but can move even up to 100m from one side to another. This is due to the change in density of the sand by wave action and the general topography of the beach. The picture on the right shows the gap in the surf line and the travelling rip which is coming from the left hand side of the beach (looking out to sea) and feeding into the rip.

Of course, we may get more than one type, or even all types, of rips occurring on a beach. Here is a particularly illustrative example. At the top of the picture we see a Permanent or Topographic rip running out by the rocks and road (note the absence of surf) and then below is our fixed rip causing a break in the surf line yet again.

Flash Rips

These often occur when a sand bar on a beach breaks down by wave and tidal action or as the tide moves past an outcrop of rocks. The diagram below illustrates typically how such a rip can arise. As the name suggests, they occur suddenly and can often be a great danger to swimmers who often do not know what to do if caught unawares in them.

How wide are rip currents, how fast can they flow, and where do they go?

On average, rips are typically about 9.5m or 31ft wide, but this is a real average as they can be less or more, and particularly the flash rips ‘begin’ by being very narrow. However, it’s a good rule-of-thumb to remember that they are normally about “as wide as a bus is long”!

They move on average at approximately 6.6kph or 4.1mph. That’s some speed, about the same pace as Olympic 400m Gold Medallist, Sun Yang’s average pace. Little chance then of out swimming or out paddling the rip.

Rips flow out to sea to a distance really depending on the volume of water that’s flowing into the beach. They go to an area we call the Head. So on a small day of surf the rip may stop and form the Head only a few hundred metres out to sea. On a big day of surf you may find it flowing kilometres out to sea. Below is a classic example of a beach break rip leading to a head, but of course heads can be found on reef set ups as well. The famous Sunset Beach in Hawaii is a great example. Lost boards there are often never found again!

Caught in the rip?

Now let’s hope that this advice is not needed if you’re a regular surfer. But do pass it on to others new to the sport or those who are just happy water users anyway. Firstly, prevention, don’t let the situation happen in the first place. Get advice about the beach and the surf you’re using and be able to spot the rips before entry, but more of that later. If someone is stuck in a rip, the first rule is don’t panic, and don’t whatever you do try to paddle or swim against it. Remember how fast it is going and just go sideways and towards the breaking waves that can help you. The picture below is simple and a good example of the action to take.

NOTE: Emerging evidence suggests that simply threading water and waiting for the rip to dissipate may be a prudent approach when caught in a rip. Currently, the approach described previously and illustrated above, i.e. swimming parallel to the shoreline/at right angles to the direction of the rip, is advocated by most surf lifesaving institutions and lifeguard professionals. Further research is required to definitively determine the safest strategy. For further information, check out this insightful article New Scientist article on research conducted at the Naval Postgraduate School (NPS) in Monterey, California, USA.

Know the Emergency Signal

It’s worth keeping in mind that people often want help even if they know what to do in a rip or when they see others caught in a rip. It’s a simple one arm in the air and waved from side-to-side to attract attention. This is like a 112 or 999 call of the sea and should be known by all and passed onto others. Just knowing this could save someone’s life and perhaps your own.

Many beaches now carry signs to remind us as shown here. Of course, just getting advice from locals and particularly lifeguards at beaches is number one. Remember, prevention is always better than cure.

So, we need to be aware of the dangers of rips, but also we may be experienced enough to want to use them to access the best surf.

So how do we spot them?

Here are some simple indicators:

1. A gap in the waves or where waves break then “back-off” (die out) and then reform again. The water moving out either stops the waves, creates a channel, or just stops the wave from breaking.

2. The surface of the water has ripples on it even if there is no wind at all. If there is wind, it seems more wind affected. Again, this is the outward movement of water creating the surface affect.

3. The rip will carry sand, seaweed, derbies and pollution. This is often a very clear indicator of a rip.

Line-ups

In order to help us use rips correctly, or to keep others away from them, we need to develop the skill of using line-ups. These are markers on the beach that help keep position in the best surf zone, and thus getting the best waves.

Also, choosing line-ups keeps others safe. Lifeguards do this all the time, setting safe swimming areas marked by flags. If you check the photo below you could choose many line ups from houses, trees, etc. But never choose objects that may move like an umbrella on the beach or a parked car for example.

So rips, although dangerous to those who are unaware of them, are often our best friends in surfing. Take time to observe the ocean before entering and never be afraid to ask questions. Be aware that some rips will take us out to surf we just can’t and don’t want to handle, and other rips will take us out to the best waves of our lives. The main reason for this article is to get you to transmit this basic knowledge to others so we can all enjoy the ocean in a much safer way. Thanks. Stay safe in the water.

The author carving a roundhouse cutback!

Tim Jones is an EASD Scout, International Surfing Association (ISA)/Surfing Great Britain (Surfing GB) certified Surf Instructor and Coach. He is¬†Director of Surf School Lanzarote. Tim has a long and active history with Surfing GB, beginning the first special needs initiative for surfing in the UK, and continues to contribute to the development of coaching skills within the organisation. The current women’s Welsh Junior and Senior Champion, Emily Williams is coached by Tim, as have past champions in Europe such as Mark Vaughen and Nathan Phillips.

UNSW Australia

“Preparation is key to staying safe” by Peter Conroy

Developing robust ‘in-the-surf’ safety procedures, like those we employ for fighting fires and tackling other emergencies, has long been a personal goal of mine. Surfing safety is quite new to Ireland, as is surfing. Devising procedures for safety in the surf is, relatively speaking, in its infancy. I am, as are other big wave riders globally, still learning what’s best.

It takes many years to learn to surf capably. You are required to learn many things; when to go, when to wait, and always, to risk assess your situation. Years accumulate before you acquire such skills and any degree of competency. Through my experience as a fireman and a rescue operator in the surf, I have lost and saved many lives. I have worked so hard – to the point of physical exhaustion – in rescue scenarios. And why; what is it that drives rescuers do this? It’s not the money, or glory, nor fame of any sort. It’s the knowledge that they have done everything in their power to save someone’s life. Not simply for their own sake, but also for the family and friends of those involved. There is nothing worse than confronting a lifeless body, after pulling from the water, after working so hard in an attempt to save and revive them. That experience is harrowing. The look on friends faces, the anguished scream of a family member. This is something that stays with you forever, something I would not wish upon anyone.

So picture your friend’s face, perhaps a surf buddy. Now hold onto that image for a moment. Now imagine them gone, drowned whilst you were surfing together. A terrible thought, but now consider, could they have been saved by doing something relatively simple?

Saving someone is the easy part. It happens, and you move on. It’s when you can’t save them, and somebody dies, that remains with you for the rest of your life. Sometimes you blame yourself, ruminating “Did I do everything correctly …Could I have done something different?” If I have learned anything in all my years as a lifeguard, paramedic, fire-fighter, swift water rescuer, big wave surfer, and rescue jet-ski/boat operator, equipped with training and practice in each discipline, it’s that things never happen as you read in the book! When it comes down to the wire and the ‘shit-hits-the-fan’ only hands-on training and practical experience get you through. What’s more, it all comes back to basics.

The first basic principle is self safety! Only when you are safe, can you begin to think about another person. This is often forgotten when accidents happen. The hero inside, that’s yearning to help someone else, ends up throwing their own safety aside in the process. In an emergency, be it in or out of the water, the most important person in a rescue attempt is YOU. Without YOU there is no rescue. Ensure before any attempt to help that you are both physically and mentally capable to do so. You might be required to resist and overcome the casualty, who is most probably in a state of shock or panicking. The victim will not act rationally or sensibly. They may even attack, or in the case of drowning, use his/her rescuer as a ladder, believing this will actually help them escape danger.

Always be prepared by planning ahead. Ask yourself the following questions. Have you taken a CPR class? Do you know how to do in-water resuscitation? What are you going to do once the victim is ashore? Have you called for help? Who’s coming to assist you should you get into difficulty trying to get back to shore? These are essential questions any surfer ought to ask themselves before going to help someone in distress, and in particular when surfing dangerous, often remote, surf spots with challenging access. The more dangerous the surf spots are, the higher the risks associated with them. You have to realistically consider whether you are adequately prepared for these risks. One can never completely remove risk in surfing, but risk can be minimised by preplanning what to do in the event of plausible occurrences, e.g. drowning, a broken back, a broken leg, burst eardrum, lacerations, etc.

Do you have access to a jet-ski? Have you received training and instruction on how to properly operate that ski? Regardless of where you stand on the tow-in versus paddle argument, the jet-ski, when operated by an appropriately trained individual, is a powerful tool to assist rescue. Similarly, and something more immediately attainable, such as a basic lifesaving or first aid course could be the difference between saving and losing a life.

We are blessed that no one has been killed to date on these shores, and that there have been relatively few major injuries. However, with the envelope being continually pushed, and more dangerous surf spots attempted, I fear the luck of the Irish is going to run out before long. When that day comes, I hope all involved can look back and say that they reasonably did everything within their power to save the unfortunate person, or at least give them a fighting chance. The principles of resuscitation and CPR are covered in any accredited basic first aid course. If you fail to prepare, then prepare to fail. There are numerous courses on lifeguarding and first aid held regularly and readily accessible. A lack of skills in dealing with a rescue situation in a dangerous place could quite conceivably lead to a needless death, possibly even that of a friend. As unpalatable as that may sound, it pales in comparison to having to look into the faces of family and friends knowing you did not have the relatively simple skills and training to deal with the situation.

Trust me when I say ‘I have been there’, I have stood in court, in the dock, with a victim’s family looking on, and have been asked whether I did everything that could be done. From the training and courses I have undertaken, both professionally for my job and pursuant to my lifestyle choices in surfing, I believe I have built up the necessary skills and competency to honestly say to that, or any other, family: “I did everything in my power to save your loved one. Everything”

When you go out to surf, it’s not your surfing ability that will save someone’s life. It is your basic life support and basic lifesaving skills and experience in white water that will.

So if your friend wipes out on a wave and comes up face-down in the water, what are you going to do? Knowing the basics could make the difference.

Take time-out from your surfing to learn these invaluable lifesaving skills, professional and recreational surfers alike. There will always be waves for you to play on – Forever. The same length of time you’ll feel responsible if someone dies who could have been saved had you only known how.

Peter Conroy is an EASD Ambassador, big wave surfer, current nominee and former Billabong XXL Finalist (2013). He is a Fireman and Paramedic with Dublin Fire Brigade. Peter is a certified Beach Lifeguard Instructor and jet-ski/rescue boat operator. He is also Chair Person of the Irish Tow Surf Rescue Club. Peter has previously lectured on the topic of Jet-Ski Assisted Rescue and Safety in Big Wave Surfing, and delivered a practical jet-ski workshop, at the Third Annual Conference in Surfing Medicine (2014). He will co-instruct surf lifesaving and rescue techniques at the upcoming ASLS Course 2015 later this year.