Proidl, Weingut FamilieKremstal, AustriaSenftenbergerVom Urgestein RamelnRiesling2012$17.9912.5%Somewhat layered and translucent, above average shine, gold with a few glints of green. While the nose possesses some lemon peel, warmed rubber, and pear, green apple to peach fruit scents, there's a doughy to leesy quality which flattens it out, trails off with echoes of mint and lavender, can be more pretty than delicate. Full-bodied, lots of bottom, more heavy than gripping. Coconut custard, pie dough, vanilla fudge give it a matured character. At the same time tangerine, lemon citrus combined with pineapple, kiwi, nectarine to peach fruit put spring in its step. Through the mid-palate a briny, pickled aspect develops. Moving along the maturation curve, wears its flaws proudly and there's a lot going on if you don't mind the scattershot approach. (Screwcap)89 points