Does your engine support bar have nuts on the bottom side (below the mounts), or is it the type that the mount bosses are threaded? If the threaded kind, the bolts tend to get stuck and then the bar bends when trying to loosen them with a ratchet - air impact a way better choice to prevent breaking/bending the bar at the ends.

If the injector copper gaskets are leaking you need to replace (Pelican should have them). On a general note, air leaks are verboten. A common place is the plastic injector blocks plus a zillion hoses and their connections - including the decel valve in an earlier pic. Once you think you have things sorted, you need to do a leak test. Then start over again :-) May seem the long way round, but trust me..
Regards
Alan

I had one injector that I didn't tighten up completely and air got by and caused a lean miss on that cylinder, but I never saw any evidence of fuel around it like that. Be sure to double check the connection between the lines and the top of the injectors, because that would certainly cause fuel to seep out if that were loose.

I have the transmission removed and got it on the stand. I need to buy the correct size torx bit for the flywheel. I also need to dive into what I can get rid of and what I need to keep seeing that Iím going with the MSD ignition and long neck intercooler.

I soaked the exhaust bolts for four days and got everything off without breaking any studs. Three of the studs came out with the nuts. Iím spraying the studs for a few days before I try to remove them.

I got the correct star socket and removed the flywheel. I knew there was a leak, but itís not real clear that itís the seal. The upper case and around the crank looks ok. It seems the seal to the case is the leak. Maybe the case below the crank?? Or maybe itís just the result of the seal leak?

The crankcase vent hose is leaking and possibly , what I assume is, the oil pressure sender seals. Iím going to reseal everything back here.

I soaked the exhaust bolts for four days and got everything off without breaking any studs. Three of the studs came out with the nuts. Iím spraying the studs for a few days before I try to remove them.

I got the correct star socket and removed the flywheel. I knew there was a leak, but itís not real clear that itís the seal. The upper case and around the crank looks ok. It seems the seal to the case is the leak. Maybe the case below the crank?? Or maybe itís just the result of the seal leak?

The crankcase vent hose is leaking and possibly , what I assume is, the oil pressure sender seals. Iím going to reseal everything back here.

Sent from my iPhone while Driving

Wow!!

You have a extreme opportunity to detail that engine, engine compartment!!

[QUOTE=1979-930;9856310]
Good job! Looks like a fun project.
Since you posted the nice picture of this sender, I'll ask. I have been trying to figure out which oil sender this is for a while. Mine is disconnected....oil pressure and oil light both work. Does anyone know?

Good job! Looks like a fun project.
Since you posted the nice picture of this sender, I'll ask. I have been trying to figure out which oil sender this is for a while. Mine is disconnected....oil pressure and oil light both work. Does anyone know?

Reading threads on the triangle of death it's supposed to be the warning light sensor.

Yes, oil warning light.
Now you have the exhaust off, don't bother trying to free those nuts on the studs that came out. replace ALL studs. They are cheap. Over time they weaken. Next time someone has to do that job (you?) some will simply snap. Then you have a bigger job to deal with. Ideal opportunity.
Double nut the remaining ones, or vise grips. may need a but of heat on base around the case - not the stud itself.
Regards
Alan

Another method that works well if you have a welder:
- clean off the end of the stud, thread on a nut
- weld on the nut, don't be shy about welding it really thoroughly
- let it cool off
We learned this from our old tool-and-die maker machinists, and it works very well. The heat cracks those seized fasteners loose.

Ugh! The studs are frozen and weak. Iíve heated the head and welded nuts to the studs, two and three times. They keep breaking until Iím at the head. I can feel the stud twist with little force and have only had luck with my cordless impact on the medium setting. The vibration helps loosen them. High setting twists them in half. Even that requires loosening and tightening back and forth to get the stud out. There is evidence of red locktight. So thatís not helping. Iíll be buying one of those stud removal tools today. Probably a must have Porsche tool. I have 5 out, 2 broke at head, 1 I can wed one more nut too and 4 I havenít started on yet.

You aren't putting enough heat on the head - around the base of the studs. They will come out relatively easy if you get them hot enough - that red loctite will eventually give.
What sort of heat are you using - I use oxy acetylene, or oxy propane lately. You get the torch on a fine tip applying localised heat on the head at the base of the stud. have your socket or vise grips on the stud and keep tweeking the stud - just feeling for the moment it comes free in the head. cut the heat and keep the stud moving.
Alan