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When the sun was out and low in the sky, Todd Sowers remembers, standing on the summit was an amazing experience. His goose-down swaddled form, and the similarly bulky shapes of his colleagues, would cast their shadows hundreds of meters down, to the stark landscape of the Bolivian altiplano below. Not that he had much time to contemplate such magnificent vistas. Sunny days were particularly precious on Nevado Sajama, not least because in order to penetrate the mountain's icy cap Sowers and the others were using a solar-powered drill.