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Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, they are. Labs are part dog, part beaver. Always have plenty of safe doggy type toys for them to chew and play with. Also, use a crate when you are not around to supervise a young dog. Better safe than sorry. And yes...they will chew and eat anything and everything!

Labradors, on the whole, adore children, people, cats, dogs and everything else that walks, crawls and breathes on this earth. I always tell people that they are not family dogs but neighborhood dogs! As a rule introducing a second dog into a family with a Labrador already there is not a problem.

If you’re a parent, in all likelihood you’ll be begged by your child to adopt a companion animal. Unfortunately, many children suffer from pet-related allergies. How does one resolve this seeming contradiction, or is it even possible? Find out in this, the latest post from the desk of Dr. Jane. She dishes out the truth about most allergy problems, how parents can protect their kids, and how families can finally adopt a companion animal safely. Read this post now …

“Mom, Dad, can we get a pet? Please?”

It’s a question that many parents hear from their youngsters. Unfortunately, the decision process can be difficult to navigate if the child in question suffers from allergies related to dogs, cats, bunnies and birds. Parents shouldn’t feel overwhelmed by this situation, as the following brief review of current research may help those seeking a solution that makes everybody happy.

Millions of Americans suffer from fur or feather allergies. These people have immune systems that overreact to the harmless proteins (called allergens) in pet dander, which comes from dead skin cells, saliva or urine. Pet hair is not the primary problem, but does collect dander. When normal shedding occurs, the allergens can spread and persist in the environment. Recent estimates put the total U.S. pet population at more than 100 million companion animals, about four pets for every ten people. With nearly six out of ten people experiencing at least occasional contact with companion animals, chances are that someone you know suffers from pet-related allergies.

For the 10% of children who are deemed highly allergic, doctors almost uniformly advocate avoidance. These are children who have a dramatic reaction with even intermittent exposure. Your first stop – especially before searching for adoptable animals – should be a visit with your pediatrician to inform your decision-making process. Your child may need to undergo some basic testing, but armed with the results you’ll be better able to determine whether a pet should be added to the family.

For children with only minor symptoms, I think the benefits of having a companion animal usually outweigh the annoyances for many families. In fact, several studies have demonstrated that childhood allergies actually become less severe the longer kids live with a family pet. Other studies have shown that children who care for dogs during their early years later become more empathetic and less likely to have behavior problems.

If your child has pet-dander allergies, there are steps you can take to minimize the presence of allergens in your home. Weekly bathing can significantly reduce the amount of dander in the home environment. Regular, thorough house cleaning - especially of soft surfaces like carpets and furniture - and designating the child’s room as a pet-free zone can make a huge difference. Also helpful is the use an air purifier in your child’s bedroom and using superior-grade HEPA filters in your central air system. I highly encourage you to have your child wash his hands after petting or playing with your companion animal, and making him mindful of keeping his hands away from his face during pet-playtime.

Once you’ve committed to these lifestyle changes, it’s time for locating the perfect companion animal. If you’re planning on adopting a dog, look for breeds with soft, constantly growing hair. Canines such as Poodles, Bichons, Cockapoos and Portugese Water Dogs (like the famous First Dog Bo) may prove to be less likely to aggravate allergic responses for some individuals, although some experts claim that this may only be because they tend to be washed and groomed more often than other breeds.

Contrary to popular belief, there are no true hypo-allergenic breeds of dogs and cats. In fact, even hairless breeds can provoke symptoms. A 2011 American Journal of Rhinology and Allergy study compared the level of allergens present in homes of hypo-allergenic dogs versus other breeds. The researchers examined dust samples from 173 homes with 60 different breeds of dogs, including 11 breeds considered hypoallergenic. The results showed no real difference in homes with hypoallergenic dogs and other breeds. Of course, this is just one study, and further research is still needed. The bottom line is that you’ll need to be vigilant, and commit to the measures outlined above to minimize allergens in your home for your child’s safety.

My recommendation is any family or individual seeking to adopt a less-allergenic companion animal should ask a shelter, breeder, a friend or rescue organization to agree to a week-long trial run. Have the allergic individual spend time with the companion animal to gauge their effect on the allergic family member.

Thank you so much for all you do to make the world a better place for companion animals,Dr. Jane Bicks

Coccidia - Almost every breeder who has 1 or 10 litters a year ends up having coccidia and I have had it in my kennel as well. Note; My pups are treated before they go home with, sulfadimethoxine (Albon®) and parantal pomate.

Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that live in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They cause disease most commonly in puppies and kittens less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed, or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g.; change in ownership, weaned off of mother, dog shows, weather changes, weaning from litter mates, long automobile or plane rides, relocation to a new home and new owners Etc).

In dogs and cats, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I.ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs. Regardless of which species is present, we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy ages, he tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult, he may carry coccidia in his intestines, and shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects. Detectable on routine fecal tests in the same way that worms are, but coccidia are not worms and are not susceptible to deworming medications. They are also not visible to the naked eye.The presence of coccidia in the feces of dogs is fairly common. Up to 72% of dogs may have some level of infection with coccidia. Multiple dog kennels are most prone to infection.

How are coccidia transmitted? A puppy is not born with the coccidia organisms in his intestine. However, once born, the puppy is frequently exposed to his mother's feces, and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces, then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within the young animal's intestines. Since young puppies, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal's intestines.

What are the symptoms of coccidiosis? The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease if it has become this bad.

Most infected puppies encountered by the authors are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis. It should be mentioned that stress plays a major role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at his new home and develop diarrhea several days to weeks later leading to a diagnosis of coccidian.

What are the risks? Although many cases are mild, it is not uncommon to see severe, bloody diarrhea result in dehydration and even death that is in very severe cases. This is most common in animals who are ill or infected with other parasites, bacteria, or viruses.

What is the treatment of coccidiosis? Fortunately, coccidiosis is very treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon®) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen®) have been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy's own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of one to two weeks are usually required, and is very reasonably priced.

How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled? Because coccidia is spread by the feces of carrier animals, it is very important to practice strict sanitation. All fecal material should be removed. Coccidia can withstand freezing. Flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a dog, for instance, can infect the dog. Therefore, insect and rodent control is very important in preventing coccidiosis. Oocysts (pronounced o'o-sists), are passed in stool. In the outside world, the oocysts begin to mature or sporulate. After they have adequately matured, they become infective to any host (dog or cat) that accidentally swallows them.To be more precise, coccidia come from fecal-contaminated ground. They are swallowed when a pet grooms/licks the dirt off itself.

Dogs should be prevented from access to foul water that may contain large numbers of oocysts (e.g.: river-flooded paddocks). Small numbers of oocysts may occasionally be present in the potable water supply but the risk of this being a major source of infection is small. It is best to use chlorinated water for your dogs drinking water as much as possible. If you are using non-chlorinated water from a well, lake, or stream, you need to chlorinate the water yourself.

Coccidiosis is frequently referred to as an opportunist – a disease that will develop when other stress factors are present. For example, the highest incidence of coccidiosis is in the first days after a dog has changed owners and moved to a new residence. If a normal animal carries oocysts, it is relatively easy for rapid development when the conditions are right – adverse weather, shipping, dog food changes, new owners, new residence, and other stresses are important.

Can my cat get coccidia from my dog? A dog infected with coccidia cannot pass the infection to cats and vice versa. Coccidial infections occur only by swallowing the coccidia in soil or dog feces.

Introduction

Providing your puppy or dog with an indoor kennel crate can satisfy many dogs' need for a den-like enclosure. Besides being an effective housebreaking tool (because it takes advantage of the dog's natural reluctance to soil its sleeping place), it can also help to reduce separation anxiety, to prevent destructive behavior (such as chewing furniture), to keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items (i.e., poisons, electrical wires, etc.), and to serve as a mobile indoor dog house which can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

A kennel crate also serves as a travel cabin for you dog when travelling by car or plane. Additionally, most hotels which accept dogs on their premises require them to be crated while in the room to prevent damage to hotel furniture and rugs.

Most dogs which have been introduced to the kennel crate while still young grow up to prefer their crate to rest in or "hang-out" in. Therefore a crate (or any other area of confinement) should NEVER be used for the purpose of punishment.

We recommend that you provide a kennel crate throughout your dog's lifetime. Some crates allow for the removal of the door once it is no longer necessary for the purpose of training. The crate can be placed under a table, or a table top can be put on top of it to make it both unobtrusive and useful.

Preparing the Crate

Vari-Kennel type: Take the crate apart, removing the screws, the top and the door. Allow your pup to go in and out of the bottom half of the crate before attaching the top half. This stage can require anywhere from several hours to a few days. This step can be omitted in the case of a young puppy who accepts crating right away.

Wire Mesh type: Tie the crate door back so that it stays open without moving or shutting closed. If the crate comes with a floor pan, place a piece of cardboard or a towel between the floor (or crate bottom) and the floor pan in order to keep it from rattling.

Furnishing Your Puppy's Crate

Toys and Treats: Place your puppy's favorite toys and dog treats at the far end opposite the door opening. These toys may include the "Tuffy", "Billy", "Kong", "Nylabone" or a ball. Toys and bails should always be inedible and large enough to prevent their being swallowed. Any fragmented toys should be removed to prevent choking and internal obstruction. You may also place a sterilized marrow bone filled with cheese or dog treats in the crate.

Water: A small hamster-type water dispenser with ice water should be attached to the crate if your puppy is to be confined for more than two hours in the crate.

Bedding: Place a towel or blanket inside the crate to create a soft, comfortable bed for the puppy. If the puppy chews the towel, remove it to prevent the pup from swallowing or choking on the pieces. Although most puppies prefer lying on soft bedding, some may prefer to rest on a hard, flat surface, and may push the towel to one end of the crate to avoid it. If the puppy urinates on the towel, remove bedding until the pup no longer eliminates in the crate.

Location of Crate

Whenever possible, place the crate near or next to you when you are home. This will encourage the pup to go inside it without his feeling lonely or isolated when you go out. A central room in the apartment (i.e.: living room or kitchen) or a large hallway near the entrance is a good place to crate your puppy. Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy In order that your puppy associate his/her kennel crate with comfort, security and enjoyment, please follow these guidelines:

Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.

In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)

You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, "Where's the biscuit? It's in your room." Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy's toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.

It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).

Important Reminders

Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

Warm Weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. [Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]

Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time. If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in the crate, the following may be the causes:

The pup is too young to have much control.

The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals.

The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined.

The pup has worms.

The pup has gaseous or loose stools.

The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated.

The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training.

The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.)

The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

Accidents In The Crate

If your puppy messes in his crate while you are out, do not punish him upon your return. Simply wash out the crate using a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature's Miracle, Nilodor, or Outright). Do not use ammonia-based products, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Crating Duration Guidelines

9-10 Weeks Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

The Crate As Punishment

NEVER use the crate as a form of punishment or reprimand for your puppy or dog. This simply causes the dog to fear and resent the crate. If correctly introduced to his crate, your puppy should be happy to go into his crate at any time. You may however use the crate as a brief time-out for your puppy as a way of discouraging nipping or excessive rowdiness.

[NOTE: Sufficient daily exercize is important for healthy puppies and dogs. Regular daily walks should be offered as soon as a puppy is fully immunized. Backyard exercize is not enough!]

Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.

Barking In The Crate

In most cases a pup who cries incessantly in his crate has either been crated too soon (without taking the proper steps as outlined above) or is suffering from separation anxiety and is anxious about being left alone. Some pups may simply under exercised. Others may not have enough attention paid them. Some breeds of dog may be particularly vocal (e.g., Miniature Pinchers, Mini Schnauzers, and other frisky terrier types). These dogs may need the "Alternate Method of Confining Your Dog", along with increasing the amount of exercise and play your dog receives daily.

When Not To Use A Crate

Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

s/he is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

s/he has diarrhea. Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.

s/he is vomiting.

you must leave him/her crated for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

s/he has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate. (See Housetraining Guidelines for exceptions.)

the temperature is excessively high.

s/he has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

Buying a Crate

Where to buy a crate: Crates can be purchased through most pet supply outlets, through pet mail order catalogs and through most professional breeders. Some examples are: Crate Size and Manufacturers:

Dog Size: Small: (Vari-Kennel #100 or General Cage #201) Toy Poodles, the Maltese, etc., with average weight of 6-10 lbs.

The Cost of A Crate

Crates can cost between $55 and $250 depending on the size and the type of crate and the source.

The Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate:

your shoes

books

table legs

chairs and sofas

throw rugs and carpet

electric, telephone and computer wires.

The real cost, however, is your dog's safety and your peace of mind.

Alternative Method Of Confining Your Puppy

There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies who must be left alone in the house for lengths of time exceeding the recommended maximum duration of confinement (see Crating Duration Guidelines). We suggest the following:

Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom or hallway with non- porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3') using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather than shutting off the opening by a solid door. Your pup will feel less isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement. Puppy proof the area by removing any dangerous objects or substances.

By Robin Kovary, with Barbara Giella By Robin Kovary, with Barbara Giella

Remember these are only tips to help you . Each animal has their own personality, and like rasing children, it is repetition ( no..no..no..off..off..off.) and finding what works for you and your dog. The final decision on what you decide to do is always your own. Think about things, try to make the right choices. Good luck and enjoy your new puppy...

A review of how probiotics work and why they are so important to good health.

Probiotics have received a great deal of attention lately, and this focus is absolutely justified. An increasing number of products, from yogurts to pet foods, contain probiotics. Often referred to as “healthy” and/or “friendly” bacteria (or microorganisms) in the media, their proper notation is “direct fed microbials” when used in pet foods. Basically, probiotics are helpful bacteria that reside in the intestinal tract. In fact, every digestive system contains millions of bacteria, both those with a healthful purpose (like probiotics) and some that are not so beneficial. While some kinds of bacteria can be harmful, many (like direct fed microbials) actually help the immune system adapt to internal changes within the body and thus naturally support good health.

Most people do not realize that located within the digestive system is one a very important group of immune cells called the Gut Associated Lymphoid Tissue (GALT), which communicate with the immune cells located throughout the body. In some respects, the GALT is the first line of defense against unhealthy microorganisms in the body. Whereas most of the cells in our body receive nutrition from the blood, this is not true for the GALT – it receives the majority of its nutrients from these helpful bacteria.

Whenever you or your companion animal takes a round of antibiotics, it indiscriminately kills all of the bacteria, regardless of their ultimate effect on the body (by providing healthy functions versus unhealthy outcomes). That’s why it’s often recommended that you eat yogurt while taking antibiotics – to re-establish the healthy bacteria in the GI tract to avoid intestinal distress – both during the course of treatment and in the days immediately following completion of an antibiotic therapy.

Good bacteria are necessary to maintain the healthy ecology of intestinal microbes known as the “gut flora”. The types of bacteria contained in the gut differ from species to species, and animal to animal, but there are commonalities in dogs and cats. These helpful bacteria can have numerous positive effects on their host’s body, including:

Causing chemical reactions that convert foods into vitamins and energy

Competing with unhealthy microorganisms, helping block their grip on the lining of the gut wall

Increasing the tolerance of bad bacteria by stimulating the immune system

Protecting the gut mucosal barrier, thereby promoting the health of the gut lining

The community of bacteria in the intestinal system protects its host from invading unhealthy microorganisms in a combined effort called “colonization resistance”. This group resistance has proven effective at supporting intestinal health.

Adding direct fed microbials to pet food can help a dog or cat’s natural digestive system to work at peak efficiency, allowing the pet to get even more nutrition from food because they ensure a healthy intestinal flora, which supports:

The production of food for healthy enterocytes (specialized cells lining the GI tract)

Increased nutrient absorption

GALT, which communicates with systemic immune systems

Whether you refer to these health-promoting bacteria as “probiotics” or “direct fed microbials”, their effect on the digestive system of your companion animal simply can’t be overstated. In fact, after a careful review of all the information, it would appear that direct fed microbials are vital to your pet’s health.

No. Most will bark at something strange but they don't get overly carried away with this protection bit. Many Labradors, unfortunately, would likely welcome the stranger into the house and show them where the silverware, VCR and computer(horrors!) are. However, they are not stupid dogs and have been known to kick up enough stink at a strange person in strange circumstances.

Yes, this breed does have hair loss. If your dog is a house dog year round, you may have a some hair loss all the time and then a large blowing of coat in the late spring and late fall. A warm bath and a good brushing with a shedding blade will get most of it out over a few days. Generally if their living quarters are clean, likely a bath or two a year is all that is needed. Check their nails to make sure they don't get overgrown and the ears once a week for smelly ear yeasts. This is not a breed for someone with allergies.

As a new puppy parent, you may find Peter & Nancy Vollmer's web site SuperPuppy a great resource. What follows is an article Nacy wrote about Raising Two Puppies.

DOUBLE TROUBLE.......Raising Two Puppies At Once!

by Nancy Vollmer

You couldn't resist. They were totally adorable six-week-old balls of fluff romping and scuffling on the breeder's carpeting. So you agreed to take Molly and Jasper home at eight weeks, and now they're romping, scuffling, eliminating, chewing, and digging on your carpeting!

You had the best of intentions. Not only would they keep each other company during your long hours at work, but you and your spouse would each have your own dog. And it didn't seem like two little puppies would be much more trouble to take care of than one. Unfortunately, the operative word is "trouble." You soon discover that two pups seem to make not twice, but eight times the mess as one! It's as if they "feed" off each other's energy.

Bonding

But the real problem is not the constant chaos involved with trying to keep up with two perpetual motion machines, but the realization that since the dogs have each other, they really don't need you! They're much more interested in roughhousing and running together than the ball games and long walks that you planned on enjoying with them.

Training is a nightmare. When you and your spouse try to separate the twosome for their daily lessons, they cry and bark and carry on trying to get back together. Even standing on your head, you can't get their attention for a moment. What can you do to get things back on track and have these pups grow into the wonderful companions you wanted?

The underlying problem is bonding. Since the pups were left alone together while you were away and never separated when you were around, their primary bond is with each other and not with you and the other family members! Never having been separated, they haven't had the opportunity to develop a closer bond with humans.

Here are some tips for managing two pups that will maximize their chances at becoming great companions.

First, the pups should sleep separately. Approximately two weeks after they come home with you, they should be trained to sleep in separate crates. You can use the den-training procedure in SuperPuppy.

Separation

But don't combine the stress of a new home with the stress of being separated right off. Start out by placing their crates side-by-side. Gradually move the crates apart so that eventually they are comfortable sleeping in different rooms. (This also prevents the development of separation anxiety problems in the future should they suddenly have to be separated due to an accident or illness.)

Once they are able to sleep in separate rooms, start separating them for short periods during the day. Start while you're at home, perhaps with naps in their crates. Build up the time so that they're calm and comfortable when apart for several hours. (Ideally, they should be confined in separate areas in exercise pens during your long absences. Although this may not be possible, it's a good way to prevent the dogs from becoming overly dependent on each other's presence.) They can share water bowls but try feeding them separately.

From the very start take them outside separately as well as together for short excursions around the neighborhood, car rides, and socialization visits.

Training Tips

Enroll them in puppy class, but keep them apart as much as possible during the class. At first do the puppy class homework while separated. Then, once they know the lessons, bring them together and practice. Teach them to pay attention to you, even though they're around each other. As a reward for working with you willingly, allow them to romp briefly together between lessons.

The pups will learn their names faster if you use their names each time you interact with them. In the beginning, names should always be said in a happy tone of voice in a rewarding context such as when praising, giving meals or teaching a command that will be rewarded with praise, petting, and a treat. Once they're a bit older, and respond to their names, you can use a name before reprimanding of one of the pups without involving the other.

Be the Leader

Exercise good leadership. Don't let one pup become excessively dominant. Allow them to establish their relationship, but intervene if one puppy becomes overly domineering. (See SuperPuppy pg. 18) Give each puppy equal time and attention, and try not to favor one over the other.

To make sure each puppy responds equally to all family members, everyone who's able should participate in the training and care taking of both pups.

As you can see, raising two puppies together to their maximum potential is considerably more work than just bringing up one. But it's still a small price to pay for two super puppies!

*** As you as can see this decision of raising two puppies cannot be taken lightly, and must be given as much thought as possible. It is not a recommended way to raise a pup, please re-read all above. So you understand the committment totally.

Sage may make your Thanksgiving stuffing delicious, but it and other herbs contain essential oils and resins that can cause problems for your pet if eaten in large quantities!

Bread dough is a no-no for your pets – if raw bread dough is ingested by an animal, its body heat causes the dough to rise in their stomach, which could lead to a life-threatening emergency.

While the humans are chowing down on Thanksgiving Dinner, offer your pet their own little feast. You could give your dog a Nylabone, or your cat could enjoy a Kong Toy! This will keep them happily occupied while you enjoy your dinner.

Oh ya be carefull for those hot oven doors! they try to get a good wiff of good food and a burn can be the result. Also I know Bella loves to lie down on the mat in front of the sink, yes she is often under our feet but it can be very dangerous when we are dumping boiling water in the sink.

Pyotraumatic dermatitis ( Hot Spots, Acute Moist Dermatitis) Pyotraumatic dermatitis is an acute and rapidly developing Surface Bacterial skin infection that occurs secondary to self infected trauma. A lesion is created when the animal licks,chews,scratches,gets bitten bugs or fleas or rubs a focal area on its body in response to a pruritic ( intense itching) or pain full stimulus. It is usually a seasonal problem that becomes more common when the weather is hot and humid. Fleas & bug bites are the most common irritating stimulus. Pyotraumatic dermatitis is common in dogs , especially in thick coated, with a little longer haired breeds . It rarely seen in cats.

Clinical Signs:

The lesions appear rapidly enlarging area, red, moist, hot, and painful areas. Lesions are usually single, but they may be multiple and are often painful. They occur most frequently on the trunk, tail base, lateral thigh, neck, and face.

Hair loss over the area

Pruritus (intense itching)

Treatment and Outcome:

The underlying cause should be identified and treated.

Carefully clip the hair from the lesions. Clip area large enough to expose the edges of the lesion. If lesions are large, consider using sedation.

Gently cleanse the skin using a medicated shampoo.

Apply topical medications to lesions twice daily. Avoid medications that dry or attract attention to the site, because this will increase self-trauma from licking or rubbing. Alcohol-containing products should be avoided.

If pruritis is mild, a topical analgesic such as Relief Spray and /or Relief Shampoo, Allercaine Spray or corticosteroid containing cream or solution should also be applied.

If pruritis is severe, Prednisone should be administered.

If the central lesion is surrounded by papules or pustules, systemic antibiotic therapy.

Treat the original disease that induced the self-trauma to the skin (fleas,bug bites)

Aggressive flea control should be provided.

The outcome is good if the underlying cause can be corrected or controlled.

Reminders:

Gentle cleansing of the area on a daily basis will speed recovery.

Owners should wash their hands after treating an infected animal to prevent contamination with Staphylococcus. Although human infections are rare, the microorganism could present a danger to owners who are immunosuppressed.

What To Expect

Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect your puppy to be completely housetrained until he is at least 9 months old. It's normal for young pups to be little 'input-output' machines. Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.

When You Are Not Home

Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset, just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.

Passive Training

While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room. Once your pup is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If he misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be papertrained.

When You Are Home

When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. But the more time you spend with your pup, the quicker he will be housetrained.Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking. When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the housetraining process back drastically.Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash.Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room.

Active Training

The most important thing you can do to make housetraining happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.

Key to Success

Consistancy and Patience.

Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents.

The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels.

Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop.

Don't forget, most puppies are not reliably housetrained until they are 9 months old.

Housetraining Your Young Puppy ( Do's & Dont's )

Perfect Paws, Inc.

If you allow your puppy to eliminate everywhere and anywhere he wants in your home, you will end up with an adult dog who will always have a tendency to want to eliminate in your home. You will have to live with it forever, or go through some time-consuming, tedious retraining later on. A dog is either housetrained or it isn't. There is no such thing as weekly 'accidents.' A truly housetrained dog will NEVER eliminate in your house unless forced to do so or because of illness. Don't expect your puppy to be reliably housetrained until it is at least 6 months old. Your puppy's early toilet habits are critical.

DO

Provide constant access to the toilet area. If you are home, take your puppy there every 45 minutes. If you are not home or cannot tend to the puppy, then you must make sure he cannot make a mistake. It's actually not really a mistake because he doesn't know any better. With young puppies, when the urge comes, they go - it usually doesn't matter where they are or what they are doing. If we didn't put diapers on human babies, they too would be soiling our carpets and floors.

Confine your puppy to a dog-proofed area and line the entire floor with papers. If the weather is nice, the area safe, etc, you can confine the pup to a small pen outside. Don't leave your pup out in the sun, wind, heat or cold.

Be sure to provide shelter and water in the confinement area. It's ideal if the pen is set up on dirt, grass, gravel or concrete. The idea is that no matter where the puppy eliminates while confined, it is on something that resembles his toilet area. Your goal is to never allow your puppy to eliminate on carpet, tile, hardwood, or anything that resembles the flooring in your home. Once a habit is established, it is difficult to break, therefore, do not let your pup form bad habits in the first place.

Praise and reward your puppy each and everytime possible for eliminating in his toilet area.

Feed your puppy at regular times. What goes in on schedule will come out on schedule.

Use a crate to help your puppy develop self control. Confine him for gradually increasing periods of time when you are home to monitor him.

Be patient. It can take until the dog is 6 months old for him to be housetrained.

DON'T

Do not reprimand your puppy for mistakes. Reprimand has no place in housetraining.

Do not leave food and water out all day and night for your puppy to eat and drink at whim. Use some common sense here. Obviously if the weather is hot, it is appropriate to give the pup access to water, but if this is the case, then you need to be more alert to the possibility of the pup needing to urinate more frequently.

Do not allow your pup to eliminate anywhere other than his toilet area.

Males on average get to be anywhere from 22 1/2 inches to 24 1/2 inches at shoulder and the females about 21 1/2 inches to 23 1/2 inches. The boys can weigh approximately 85lbs and the girls approximately 65lbs. The weight will depend upon the height and how heavily boned the dog is. Condition also comes into consideration.

Labradors are dogs that require a far amount of it. Generally a good walk of say half an hour daily and then any play time...especially something like fetch, will be beneficial to the dog. If not properly exercised, they can become bored and then destructive.

Find out the kennel's normal business hours and drop by un-announced for a tour. If they will not let you examine the entire facility without an appointment, do not leave your dog.

On your tour notice the following things: Each dog or family group has it's own indoor/outdoor run (some kennels do not have attached outdoor runs-bad, bad) There should be a solid divider at least 3'high between runs.And if your dog is a climber they should have several covered "escape proof" runs. The outside runs should be concrete that slopes s urine drains off. Some feces may be present, but not tons in every run. Ask how often they scoop and are runs hosed & disinfected every day? How are feces disposed of? A dumpster is ideal and a pile next to the building is bad Some odor may be present, but should not be strong & overpowering Outside runs should be surrounded by a security fence of some type at least 6'high, in case a dog escapes from it's run Windows, exhaust fans, heat & air conditioning are musts Outside runs should have a roof covering them Each dog must have water available during the daytime All the dogs should not act afraid.Some may be shy and some aggressive, but most should seem happy or excited.

Will they feed the food you supply (if you want to), give pills or feed twice a day without extra charge?

If a dog soils itself will they wash it for free?

In the event of an emergency, do they have a 24 hr vet available close by?

Do they feed a good quality food?

Are the bowls washed each day?

What do local vets have to say about the kennel?

How experienced with dogs/cats is the help and do they seem good with the animals?

Special notes for cat owners: Are litterboxes dumped and disinfected daily are the cats in a room separate from the dogs are the cats allowed some time out of their cage each day (not with other cats) Windows are great, but any that open must have wire mesh over them to prevent escape. Is ventilation adequate-most cat illnesses are airborne.

All good kennels should require proof from your vet of vaccination against Distemper combination, Parvo, Rabies and Bordetella for dogs and feline distemper combination, Upper respiratory complex and rabies for cats. If ferrets or rabbits are accepted they must be required to be vaccinated against rabies.

The kennel help should also check incoming animals for fleas. If an animal is found to have fleas/ticks it will/should be given a flea/tick bath which the owner will be expected to pay for.

How To Reduce the Stress to Your Pet When You Leave It At A Kennel

Fill out/sign any paperwork before you bring your pet inside.

Type or write any special instructions ahead of time and attach it to any special food/medication you will be bringing and bring all that stuff inside before your pet.

Do not bring blankets, beds or any toys that you will want returned to you.

When you bring your pet inside, simply give it a quick pat and leave. DO NOT make a production about it or your pet will stress out.

When picking up your pet, pay your bill and take all belongings/food out to the car first. Then have the help put your leash on your dog or cat into carrier prior to bringing the pet out to you. Do not make a production over your reunion, simply take your pet out get in the car and go. This will also avoid puddles on the floor!

Any problems should be reported within 24 hours to the owner or manager.

We can not tell you who to go to. The final decision is always yours. These are just tips to help you with questions. It is always up to you and the amout of research you are willing to put into finding a safe and secure place for your dog to stay

Barking is a perfectly natural canine behavior. Birds sing; frogs croak; and a dog barks, whines and howls. If you have a dog, you better expect some barking, whining or howling. It is unrealistic and unfair to think you can train your dog to stop barking altogether. However, you, your neighbors and your dog will all be much happier if the barking is under control.

Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.

Barking and Walkies!

The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.

Nuisance Barking

Until you have re-trained your dog about her barking habits, she should be confined to a place where she will cause the least disturbance. Closing the drapes will help muffle the noise for the neighbors. In addition, confining the dog to the back of the house (away from the street) will keep disturbances to a minimum. Leave a radio playing to mask noises from the street. You may also want to have disconnect switches on the telephone and doorbell if these set off a barking spree.

"Stop Barking"

It's no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently inconsistent.

In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand.

Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose. Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . ." After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on.

Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.

The Consequences of Barking

When your dog stays quiet for the required period of time after you've asked her to please, "Stop Barking," she is rewarded. When she makes a mistake, your unsuspecting poochie's very next wooflet should be met with a cataclysmic, earthshaking 120 decibel "STOP BARKING!!!" Most dogs are so totally shocked and amazed by this horrendous outburst that they will stare at you in disbelief (and silence). If this outburst makes your dog more excited, then you might try an ice-cold I-mean-business tone of voice. Sometimes a splash of water in the face will do the trick. You must find something that will instantly make your dog stop barking. As soon as your dog stops barking, even for just a tenth of a second, you must immediately and instantly reward her. After enough repetitions your dog will learn the meaning of the command, "Stop Barking," and you will no longer need your training props (water, treats, etc.)

Substituting the Barking Habit

If your dog's excessive barking has already become a habit, don't expect the barking to get under control overnight. It takes weeks of repetition to replace an old habit with a new one. If you keep up with these procedures, you will see a new pattern of barking develop. Instead of barking relentlessly at the insignificant, your dog will be barking appropriately and for a reasonable length of time. It is important that you maintain this new good habit through practice and praise or your dog may revive his old annoying barking habits again.

For many of us, the pressures of modern life can be quite taxing, leaving us little one-on-one time with our companion animals. And yet, experts believe that positive changes in your pets’ temperament can be brought about just by your spending quality time with them. With that in mind, it’s easy to see that by enriching the bond you share with your companion animal, your quality of your life will improve, too. The first step in your efforts to enhance these interactions is to assess your current level of personal contact. Perhaps the best way to achieve this is by making a list of the typical weekly interactions you engage in with your companion animal. Once you create the list, grade yourself by asking whether or not you could, or should, be doing more.

If you’re unsure what you might do to enjoy quality time together, don’t worry - here are some tips for making the most of your time together and the best of your pet’s time alone. Consider incorporating any or all of these in your daily life …

Set aside a few minutes in the morning to groom your cat or dog. While brushing or combing, talk to them about your plans for the day. If your pets don’t enjoy grooming, spend a few minutes just petting and praising them. Whatever your daily morning interaction, try to do it at same time and in the same place. Your companion will find comfort in the regimen – and so will you.

Leave something that smells like you, like a pillow case or a recently-worn shirt, on or near your pet’s favorite spot. Your four-footer will find your scent reassuring during your time away from home.

If you have an answering machine, call home when you’re away and talk to your pet. Hearing your voice can be reassuring to them during your absence. When you return home after a long period away, greet your companions as if you’ve only been away for a few minutes and then do whatever chores are most pressing. Afterwards, do something that he or she will enjoy, like (if you have a dog) a game of catch, hide-and-seek, or take a long walk. No matter what you do together, be sure to tell him or her how much fun you are having. If you have cats, we recommend playing with a ball or using a fishing pole with dangling feathers – you know your cat loves the chase! It’s important to dedicate this time to your pet alone, so consider leaving your cell phone in another room if you’re indoors, or indoors if you’re outside. Take it from me – your undivided attention makes a big difference.

Incorporate teeth cleaning, ear cleaning and/or nail trimming into your new routine. Too often, these health necessities are viewed grudgingly as chores. Commit to making this time as fun as possible. It helps to think of these activites like time at a spa.

Massage is a wonderful way to connect with your companion animals. Check out one of the many pet massage books currently on the market to help you develop a technique that’s easy on you and feels good to them. There is evidence to suggest that massage can improve your pet’s health, and it may even relax you, too.

Whatever you choose to do to improve your relationship, even if it’s just one of these suggestions, will help you and your companion animal to lead more fulfilling lifetimes.

Thank you for all that you do to make a better world for your companion animals,

The reason most dogs and puppies jump up on people is because they are happy and excited to see them! Jumping, leaping and bouncing are ways your dog shows affection and receives attention. The behavior is usually learned while they are puppies. When a puppy is very young, we usually sit on the floor, let them wiggle into our laps and allow them to lick and nuzzle up close to our face. When they come bounding over to greet us, jumping and stretching up to our knees, again we bend down, pick them up and exchange hugs and kisses. All this time we are training and rewarding the puppy for jumping up. Eventually we decide we don't like this behavior anymore. What used to be cute is now obnoxious and even dangerous if the dog is jumping up on children or the elderly.

The Jumping Problem Continues

Our inconsistency perpetuates the problem. Some of the time we tolerate the jumping and ignore it. Other times we reward the behavior by exchanging enthusiastic greetings. But when we're dressed up and the dog's paws are muddy, it's a different story. Reprimanding the dog for jumping up usually does not work. Either the dog misunderstands the reprimand as praise or he gets even more excited and the jumping gets worse. If the reprimand is severe enough, the dog may stop jumping at that moment but it doesn't solve the problem altogether; and it certainly is not a very nice thing to do. It's very similar to a person approaching you with a big smile, arm extended to exchange a hand-shake and you bopping the person in the nose. Even if your dog learns that jumping up on you is not a good idea, he will usually get away with jumping up on everyone else.

The End of the Jumping Problem

A better solution is providing your dog with an alternative method of greeting you and others. Teach your dog to sit-stay. He cannot sit-stay and jump up at the same time. When he is sitting you can then kneel down and give him a warm hug and kiss. Practice is essential. If your dog is excitedly jumping up when you return home from work and this only happens once a day, then he is only getting one practice session a day. If he is jumping up on your company and you only have visitors once a week, then he is only getting one practice session a week. In order to perfect the proper greeting routine, your dog needs much more practice than that. You can speed up the training process by leaving through the back door and returning through the front door over and over again. When your friends come over, have them do the same. Each time, ask your dog to sit-stay before opening the door. At first his excitement will make it difficult for him to concentrate but after you've repeated this process 10 times, he will calm down and be able to concentrate. Before asking your dog to sit-stay in this distracting and exciting situation, be sure he has a reliable sit-stay in normal, non-stressful situations.

Jumping up can be dangerous as well as annoying. Just as many owners are sued for their jumping dogs as their biting dogs. Young children and elderly people can easily be toppled over and seriously injured by exuberant, friendly dogs. Start now to teach your puppy not to jump up. Even little dogs can cause problems and injury to themselves and others when they leap and jump around.

DO

Gently and repetitively place puppy's feet back on the floor and reward him there.

Be consistent.

Get down to his level to give affection and attention.

DON'T

Do not allow the pup to jump up. Do not pet, talk, cuddle or reward him for jumping.

If you’re like most people, you’re currently in the midst of another incredibly busy holiday season. With planning, traveling, baking, shopping, get-togethers with friends and family, there seems to be no end to the to-do list … or the holiday stress. Unfortunately, during all of the hustle and bustle, we sometimes forget about the needs of our four-legged family members.

Companion animals can be overwhelmed by visitors, the smells coming from the kitchen, and the curious colors and textures of holiday decorations in the home. The holidays offer up unique hazards for our pets. In fact, every year thousands of pets are seriously injured or sickened by dangers that could have been easily prevented. In most of these cases, pet parents are simply unaware of the risks associated with holiday food, treats and decorations. Many plants are very dangerous. crate your dog in a place that is quiet and comfortable for him or her when things seem to get a little crazy with company and gift. Sometime just the excitement of company can cause your pet to misbehave..

Many of these holiday hazards, including decorations and food risks that might be present in your home right now.Surviving the holiday season with less stress and more joy is everyone's goal..

Be sure to share this with your friends and family. Who knows … one of the gifts you give may be saving the life of a furry companion!

The Leash Problem Begins

Most leash pulling begins as soon as the dog sees the leash and knows she's about to go for a walk. If the walk begins out of control, the precedent is set for the entire walk. Before expecting your dog to calmly walk beside you on leash, train her to be calm when you are putting her collar and leash on! Ask her to sit-stay while you are putting on her leash. If she does not stay, the walk is delayed until she does. Don't give in or she will learn that it's OK to be out of control. If your dog doesn't have a reliable sit-stay, then practice training her to sit-stay without the distraction of the prospect of a walk. If you do not know how to teach a reliable sit-stay, enroll in an obedience training class.

Leash Training Warm-Up

Most dogs learn very quickly that they must sit while the leash is being attached to the collar. They usually tremble with excitement, ready to explode into a frenzy as soon as this phase is accomplished. If your dog bolts toward the door, dragging you behind, then the situation is still out of control. Simply hold onto the leash, stand still and let your dog dance, ricochet and bounce around at the end of the leash. It may take 5 minutes or more, but she will soon realize that you are not going anywhere and will begin to calm down. When this happens, praise her for being good. After another minute or so, take your first step, but NOT towards the door. Instead, walk your dog around your house, garage or yard to give her a chance to practice her 'not-pulling' skills. Every time she pulls, lunges or strains on the leash, simply stand still again. When she calms down, talk to her, praise her calmly and quietly. Try to keep her attention on yourself instead of the door that leads to outside. When you feel that your dog is in control and she is walking nicely without pulling in your house or yard, then it is time to proceed to the great outdoors.

Training Outdoors

Every time your dog pulls on leash and you continue the walk, you are rewarding her for pulling and lunging. Every time your dog gets out of control it is essential that you instantly stop the walk, stand still and wait for her to calm down before continuing. It is a tremendous effort in patience at first but it will pay off if you persevere. You may only get to the end of the block or even your driveway on your first outing, but if you give in to your dog's demands, then she will continue to pull. You can speed up the process by asking her to sit- stay for about 5 to 10 seconds every time she begins to pull. Of course this will only work if your dog already has a reliable sit-stay.

This habit is difficult to break in adolescent and adult dogs. Train your puppy now while you still have a considerable strength advantage over him and before he learns to pull.

DO

Use a body harness and teach your puppy to accept it the same way you teach puppy to accept a collar.

Use lures and praise to keep her at your side.

Keep the leash loose at all times. If you see your puppy starting to forge ahead, give a sharp tug on the leash with lightening speed to bring the pup back to your side. Don't wait until the puppy is clear at the other end of the leash, pulling ahead before you take action. The leash should always remain loose except for that one split second it takes to bring the dog back into place. Do not drag your puppy back to your side. Use a quick tug, then immediately release so the leash is slack again. If it doesn't all happen in 3/10ths of a second, it's taking too long and your puppy will not learn to walk nicely on leash. Put another way: Instead of correcting your dog after he is already pulling, do not give him the opportunity to pull. If he never pulls, he will never learn to pull. You must correct him BEFORE he pulls!

Practice now before your pup learns to pull. Since your pup is unable to walk the streets yet, begin teaching him to walk around your house and yard. He should be taught not to pull before hitting the streets.

DON'T

Do not let your puppy pull you around.

If you cannot correct the puppy in time, do not reward his pulling by letting him continue on his way. Just turn around and go the other way, or stop in your tracks and say, "We are not going one inch further until you stop pulling." Then wait, it may take 30 seconds; it may take 20 minutes. Do not move until your puppy is in control. Now you can start over and give the correction before he starts pulling again. If again you are too late in your correction, start again.

Do not yank and pull on your puppy's throat and neck. Use a soft, adjustable, non- restrictive harness. As soon as your pup learns leash manners, you can switch to a regular collar for walking. Do not leave the harness on your dog unattended. Use it only while you are practicing.

DO

Provide several of a variety of toys for your puppy.

Teach your puppy to play with these toys.

Praise puppy every time you see him chewing or playing with his toys on his own.

Teach your puppy to get a toy to greet you. Each time your pup runs up to greet you or anyone else, encourage him to find and get a toy. All humans, especially the owners should always be greeted by a dog with toy in mouth.

Any area that the pup has access to must be kept clear and clean. Put out of puppy's reach anything you don't want him to chew or destroy, such as trash, shoes, hazards, etc. Your dog does not know what is valuable or dangerous and what is not.

If you find your puppy with your best shoe in mouth, distract him away from it and replace the shoe with one of his toys. Praise him for chewing his toy. Do not reprimand him for chewing your shoe. Reprimand yourself for leaving it out where he could find it.

Booby traps items and articles to show your puppy that these things are no fun to chew, in fact, they are an annoyance even to touch.

DON'T

Do not allow unsupervised access to 'unchewables.'

Do not chase the puppy in an attempt to take something away.

Do not reprimand excessively. A verbal warning should be enough. A loud startling noise is even better. It gets the puppy's attention without the puppy associating it with you. As soon as the puppy is distracted, show him what to chew and praise him for chewing it.

Dog and Puppy Chewing

Chewing, ripping, shredding, tearing up and generally destroying stuff is as normal for dogs as tail-wagging. If you have a dog, expect chewing. Provide him with his own toys and teach him to use them or he will destructively chew anything available, such as your furniture, carpet, clothing or shoes.

Dogs do not chew and destroy your house and belongings because they are angry, jealous or spiteful. They do it because they are dogs. They may be lonely, bored, frustrated or anxious, but they are not malicious, vindictive or petty. Active dogs can become restless when left alone for long periods. If you always come home at a certain time and you are late, your dog may become anxious.

Your dog does not punish you for being late by destructive chewing. The dogs' chewing is a form of occupational therapy to relieve stress and release energy. If you come home and find that your dog has destroyed something, do not punish the dog.

Passive Training to Prevent Chewing Problems

Until your dog can be trusted not to destroy your home and yard, do not give him free, unsupervised run of your house. Give him a pleasant area or room of his own where he can enjoy himself and relax when you are not home or are unable to supervise him. Literally litter his room with a wide variety of toys. Since he will have no other choice of things to chew, he will learn to chew and play with his own toys. Make the toys enticing. Soak rawhide and long marrow bones in different flavored soups. Let them dry and give a different flavor to the dog each time you leave him alone. Sterilized marrow bones and Kong toys can be stuffed with liver treats or cheese. The dog will be entertained for hours trying to extricate the treats from the toy. Bury these toys in the dog's digging pit.

Active Training to Prevent Destructive Chewing

When you are home, take time to teach your dog to play with her toys and to seek them out whenever she feels like chewing. Always lavish your dog with praise every time you see her playing with or chewing on one of her toys. Teach your dog to "find" her toys. Scatter several toys in different rooms throughout the house. Tell her to "find it," then immediately lead her from room to room encouraging her to pick up a toy when she sees one. When she does so, reward with praise, affection, play and even a food treat, then continue the game.

Anticipation Chewing

Most destructive chewing occurs just before the owner returns home. The dog is anxiously anticipating the owner's return and this energy is released by chewing. You can prevent your dog from indiscriminately chewing whatever is handy and instead chew her own toys. Whenever you return home, insist that your dog greet you with a toy in her mouth. At first you will have to help her by telling her to "find" her toy. Do not give your usual home coming greeting until she has a toy firmly in her mouth. Within a few days, your dog will realize that you never say hello unless she has a toy in her mouth. Now when your dog starts anticipating your return, she will automatically begin looking for a toy with which to gain your greeting and approval when you do return. If a toy is already in her mouth, she will be likely to chew on it, rather than on the furniture, to release tension.

Chewing Deterrents

If you catch your dog in the act of chewing a forbidden item, you can sternly scold her with a verbal warning. Immediately direct your dog to one of her own toys and praise her for chewing it. This will teach your dog not to chew forbidden items when you are present, but it probably will not discourage the dog from investigating these items when you are not there. The only way to prevent your dog from chewing these things is to make them inherently unattractive. There are many products in pet stores that are designed to apply to furniture, etc that are safe but repulsive to dogs. Why chew on something that is boring, distasteful or unpleasant when there are plenty of fun, exciting and tasty things to chew on? Common Sense and Chewing.

By far the simplest way to keep your dog from chewing on forbidden items is to prevent access to them. Put your shoes in the closet and shut the door. Place the trash outside. Keep doors closed; keep valuables out of reach. Praise and reward your dog profusely for chewing her own toys.

Oh yes and just try and keep them out of every puddle, stream, pool, lake or ocean that they see. If your Lab is in the water a lot, make sure you don't run into hot-spot trouble from the coat constantly being wet. Also make sure you know what is in the body of water your Lab is joyfully swimming in....they can get sick from contaminated water or water high in bacteria especially during the hot summer months.

Pyotraumatic Dermatitis - (Acute Moist Dermatitis, Hot Spots)

Pyotraumatic dermatitis is an acute and rapidly developing surface bacterial skin infection that occurs secondary to self-inflicted trauma. A lesion is created when the animal licks, chews, scratches, or rubs a focal area on its body in response to a pruritic (intense itching) or painful stimulus. It is usually a seasonal problem that becomes more common when the weather is hot and humid. Fleas are the most common irritating stimulus. Pyotraumatic dermatitis is common in dogs, especially in thick-coated, long-haired breeds. It is rarely seen in cats.

Clinical Signs:

The lesions appear rapidly enlarging area, red, moist, hot, and painful areas. Lesions are usually single, but they may be multiple and are often painful. They occur most frequently on the trunk, tail base, lateral thigh, neck, and face.

Hair loss over the area

Pruritus (intense itching)

Treatment and Outcome:

The underlying cause should be identified and treated.

Carefully clip the hair from the lesions. Clip area large enough to expose the edges of the lesion. If lesions are large, consider using sedation.

Gently cleanse the skin using a medicated shampoo.

Apply topical medications to lesions twice daily. Avoid medications that dry or attract attention to the site, because this will increase self-trauma from licking or rubbing. Alcohol-containing products should be avoided.

If pruritis is mild, a topical analgesic such as Relief Spray and /or Relief Shampoo, Allercaine Spray or corticosteroid containing cream or solution should also be applied.

If pruritis is severe, Prednisone should be administered.

If the central lesion is surrounded by papules or pustules, systemic antibiotic therapy.

Treat the original disease that induced the self-trauma to the skin (fleas,bug bites)

Aggressive flea control should be provided.

The outcome is good if the underlying cause can be corrected or controlled.

Reminders:

Gentle cleansing of the area on a daily basis will speed recovery.

Owners should wash their hands after treating an infected animal to prevent contamination with Staphylococcus. Although human infections are rare, the microorganism could present a danger to owners who are immunosuppressed.

Labradors come in three colors, black, yellow and chocolate. Black is black, yellow can range from fox red to creme and chocolate can range from light sedge to chocolate. A small amount (silver dollar size) of white is permissible on the chest. There should be no difference between the colors in temperament or type. It is likely more the difference between one breeders breeding program and anothers as to what they place emphasis on.

Tricupsid valve dysplasia (Heart related, testing only in some lines).

Using "Optigen testing" they also evaluate new DNA markers for prcd-PRA - Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA). PRA refers to a group of diseases that cause the retina of the eye to degenerate slowly over time. The result is declining vision and eventual blindness. “prcd” stands for “progressive rod-cone degeneration” which is the type of PRA known in several breeds).

Make sure your puppy's parents have had proper clearances...ask to see them.

My response to this is to say to someone, that is like asking people if they prefer to have boy children or girl children....it depends on the individual and their experiences with that given sex. Both make loving family companions.

Often people assume a female would be easier to handle. This is untrue as it really depends on the character of the given puppy/dog. A 65lb female who is very active and always underfoot is not as easy to live with as the 85lb male who is a real couch-potato. But, each dog, like humans, have there own personality and can be different than the "Usual". Try and chose a personality, not a sex. Also how much time and traning you put into your dog really makes a difference.

Whining, crying, barking, and howling often result when a dog is left alone. Puppies will whine and cry when separated from their owners. The puppy is afraid he is being abandoned by his pack and is sounding the alarm so that he can be rescued. The reason excessive whining continues is because the dog has learned that whining, crying or barking gets whatever he wants - attention, food, affection. Often what starts out as a demand whining soon becomes an unconscious whining habit. To prevent an annoying whining habit, teach your dog to accept short periods of confinement before leaving him alone for long periods of time. Spend time with your dog in the area where he is left and show him that this is a fun place to be. If he starts whining or howling when you leave, don't rush back to let him out or reassure him. If you do, he will soon learn that he can control you with his whining blackmail. However, if barking, whining or howling continues then he probably is not yet comfortable in his confinement area. Spend a little more time with him there. Then when you leave, it he continues barking, whining or howling, give him a loud and stern 'NO!' After he has been quiet for a few moments, return and praise him lavishly. Practice leaving and returning several times so he becomes accustomed to your departures and realizes that you are not abandoning him forever. He will see that you will return and there's nothing to worry about. Practice leaving him for longer and longer periods of time.

If your dog is whining or howling when you are at home, either for attention or just out of habit, the first step in stopping this is to provide your dog with daily routines of play, exercise and training. Often these special times of undivided attention will stop the dog from whining the rest of the day. Secondly, pay attention to your dog only when he is quiet. Ignore him whenever he begins demanding your attention by whining. Each time you give in to your dog's whining demands, you are training him to continue whining. If you want a few moments of peace, you can teach the dog to be quiet on request. Gently ask your dog to please 'Stop Whining.' If he ignores you and continues whining, immediately shout a very loud, 'STOP WHINING!' or squirt the dog in the face with water. After a few repetitions, the dog will get the idea and obey the first gentle request of 'Stop Whining,' rather than get scolded or doused with water.

Unusual whining or whining that starts suddenly when it never existed before may be your dog's way of telling you that something is wrong. See your veterinarian right away to be sure no health problems exist.

Puppies whine for a reason. If the problem is not resolved immediately, whining can become an ingrained habit that is intensely irritating and annoying. Many dogs use whining, howling, and barking as a means of vocal blackmail in order to control their owners.

DO

When confined to a crate or small room or pen, always give your puppy the benefit of the doubt. When she begins whining, immediately take her to her toilet area.

Teach your dog to accept isolation and privacy. Accustom your puppy to being left by herself, even if you are home.

Make sure your puppy is comfortable. Is your puppy hungry, thirsty, too hot, too cold, uncomfortable, sick, or has lost her toy under the furniture?

When you know that all your puppy's physical needs are met and you have taken the time to accustom her to isolation, then teach her that whining is unacceptable.

While there are competing theories regarding why dogs and cats consume grass, a conclusive answer has yet to be supported by scientific study. Here’s a brief overview of the current speculation

They simply like the taste and texture of the grass and eating it provides a sense of satisfaction

It’s an ancestral thing – prey of wild dogs and cats frequently have grasses in their intestinal system, and domesticated dogs and cats still yearn for grass in the diet

Our companion animals know of some nutritional value in grasses that we have yet to find out (like antioxidants or something similar)

They do it to provoke vomiting if they’ve eaten something that has upset their stomachs

They are augmenting their keen sense of smell with taste to uncover more about their environments

Although we may never know the exact reason why, we do know that this is one of the most often asked questions posed to veterinarians. If you notice excessive grass-eating with either your dog or cat, you should consult your vet.

Many people try to win their new puppy's love by letting the puppy always have its way. The pup is showered with affection and attention because he is so cute and cuddly. Buckets of affection is a wonderful thing for most puppies, but it must be tempered with respect. If you give in to your puppy's every whim, your pup will never learn self control and self discipline. Your puppy will never learn to respect you. If your puppy does not respect you, it will have no reason to do anything for you. Your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. Just as a child needs a caring parent; an athletic team needs a coach; your puppy needs a leader. If you do not take up the role of leader, your dog will; and you will end up with an unruly, disobedient, out of control, often aggressive monster of a dog. Most of these dogs end up living a life of isolation in the back yard because no one can deal with it; or they end up dead - euthanized at the local animal shelter. They end up at the shelter because either the owner can't live with the dog anymore, or a member of the public has filed a complaint against the dog and government officials have taken the dog away from the owner. DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU AND YOUR DOG!

Other people have an equally erroneous misconception of this issue. Instead of showering the dog with love and affection, they think that to earn the dog's respect they must bully and terrorize the dog into submission. A dog treated this way will eventually bite their owner. This is not respect. Respect is not something that is forced. It is won. A dog will not respect someone it does not trust.

About Us

Integrity Farm , is located in Southern NH and have been breeding quality animals since 1985.