Monday, November 7, 2016

Preventing log rot is as easy as keeping moisture out of the wood. Unfortunately, sometimes what is relatively easy goes unnoticed and time goes by until water has done its damage. Anything from upward facing cracks to leaky gutters to absence of gutters altogether can drive water into the wood and feed a situation of decay. Prevention is key, but if it's too late for that, here is a snap shot on how to repair rotten wood on your log home.

1. First survey the damage. If the log rot is extensive where full or partial log replacement is required, then you may want to call in a log home restoration professional if you're own carpentry skills are lacking. At Schroeder Log Home Supply we don't do the restoration work ourselves, but we have a collection of contractors listed in our system and we can put you in touch with them. Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614.

2. If the log rot is manageable, remove all wood that is decayed soft beyond the point of salvaging. i.e. If you can scoop it out by hand, get rid of it!

3. Drill small holes in the decayed area (1/8" or so) to perforate the wood and allow for better penetration of preservative and hardener.

4. Apply a borate wood preservative, such as PeneTreat, ArmorGuard, or ShellGuard RTU to kill the rot, and allow the wood to dry out. Brush and spray into the holes and throughout the decayed area.5. Mix and apply a two-part epoxy wood hardener like LiquidWood or M-Balm. Inject into the holes and cracks and brush throughout decayed area.

6. Mix and apply a two-part epoxy wood filler like WoodEpox or E-Wood. Mix together the two parts, and add pigment to more closely match the surrounding wood. (although the epoxy filler will accept stain, its lighter color may show up contrasted against the rest of the log when using a semi-transparent stain). While still pliable, a brush or sharp tool may be used to etch in lines to mimic the surrounding wood grain.

7. After it's cured, the epoxy wood fillers can be sanded and painted or stained like wood. Finally, make sure that whatever issue caused water to flow into the wood in the first place is solved.

The restoration snapshot above is for informational purposes, but actually procedure required may vary by situation. Call us at 1-800-359-6614 with any questions or concerns or to find a local restoration contractor.

Maintenance with a clear top coat over an elastomeric log
stain is pretty great.

·Easiest application – apply even with a garden
sprayer

·No lap marks – two layers of clear is . . . .
still clear

·Protects the underlying stain from discoloration

·Maintenance coats won’t darken the home over
time

·Won’t discolor your chinking

Everyone knows that a $30 oil change two or three times a
year beats a $2,000 mechanic’s bill. Routine maintenance and re-application of
your clear coat is no different. Taking a
weekend or two every couple of years to apply a fresh clear coat will be the
difference between keeping your stain in tip top shape or paying $20,000 for a
complete redo. (Eek!)

·First, UV filters in Cascade® protect the
underlying Capture® Log Stain from discoloration. While slight discoloration
isn’t entirely avoidable in a semi-transparent stain, keeping up on Cascade®
maintenance will slow down the discoloration process.

·Second, Cascade® contains the majority of the
water repellency of the two-part Capture® and Cascade® system. Keeping up on
Cascade® maintenance means a home that is protected from rain and snow.

So, how do you know it’s time for another clear coat? It all starts with an inspection.

Check your logs twice a year: once in the spring for any
winter damage, and once in the fall for any summer damage. In particular, look
for the following:

·Loss of sheen: Cascade® has a satin sheen to it.
It will erode away more quickly in the highly exposed areas. Take a look at
your logs in the sun. It will be easy to tell where it’s worn off. Clean the
surface, and apply more.

·Loss of moisture shedding: Take a hose or spray
bottle to the walls. If water is still sheeting off, you’re in good shape. If
not, time for a maintenance coat.

·Discoloration of Capture®: If you notice
significant fading or darkening of the Capture® Log Stain, it’s likely the
Cascade® has been gone for a while. You may need to do a re-coat of both
products.

The good news: you don’t need to re-coat the whole house
every time. Apply more Cascade® where needed, when needed. It’s likely the
north side or any side protected by a porch can go several years without a
re-coat, while that south wall that’s fully exposed may need re-application on
those lower courses every two years. Your home is unique, so maintenance
schedules will be, too. In the end, it should only take you one weekend a year
to do the work. Once it’s done, sit back, pat yourself on the back, enjoy an
iced tea, and get on with life.

Friday, June 17, 2016

Earlier in the month we announced our “Answers from the Experts” series. In part two of the series we have interviewed John Schroeder from log help, a log cabin expert, on some of your most popular questions on maintaining, protecting and looking after your log cabin home.

For those of you who own a log home, this post will help you with key maintenance elements of maintaining/restoring chinking, staining your cabin and protecting against mildew, mold, termites and rot.

Friday, May 6, 2016

When most people envision log homes, they think of humble
abodes hidden in the woods rather than huge sprawling estates. For the
ultra-rich business magnates of the early 20th century, however, big was the
only way to go. That’s why Louis G. Kaufman, bank president and early member of
the General Motors board of directors, built a massive 266,000-square-foot log
mansion on the shores of Lake Superior in 1923. He called it Granot Loma – an amalgamation of the
names of his wife and three children – and today the estate still holds the
record as the largest log home in the world.

Valued at $40 million, Granot Loma is also the most
expensive home in the state of Michigan. It was constructed between 1919 and
1923 for a total cost of about $5 million – roughly $70 million in today’s
dollars. Kaufman recruited 22 architects and over 400 Scandinavian craftsmen
for the project. Logs for the home were transported from Oregon by rail.

The home features 23 bedrooms, 13 baths and 26 fireplaces.
The fireplace in the great room measure 30 feet long, and its mantel is made of
a beam salvaged from a shipwreck in Lake Superior. Other furnishings in the
house include a chandelier made from the roots of a white pine tree and a Brunswick
Pool table from 1900 inlaid with silver and mother of pearl.

The house is built on a plot of land measuring nearly eight
square miles along with 13 other outbuildings including a dairy barn, pool
house and multiple garages. Today, the enormous residence is listed on the
National Registrar of Historic Places.

Monday, May 2, 2016

The
mention of log homes immediately brings to mind many thoughts, like warm, cozy,
historic, quality craftsmanship, timeless design and durability. Log homes can
also be environmentally friendly as well, as attested to by a growing number of
environmentalists who embrace log home construction. After all, log homes are
one of the oldest forms of building, and have been trusted by homeowners for
centuries.

Houses
cannot be built from nothing, but they can be built with sustainable practices
from renewable resources like sustainably harvested logs – a completely
renewable resource. Some log home builders even intentionally source
sustainably harvested logs for the homes that they build, and some especially
environmentally conscious homeowners are able to have their log home
constructed wholly or partly with logs that were harvested from their property.

Aesthetic
considerations are also important in a home, and log homes often look
particularly nice in rural, wooded areas. In the same way that adobe homes look
perfectly natural in the desert, log homes blend in with the environment in a
wooded setting and look as though they are part of the landscape.

Well-built
log homes are also extremely energy efficient due to the thermal mass of the
logs. The thickness of the walls in a log home makes the building easier to
heat and cool than many other types of construction, and this thermal
efficiency, in turn, reduces the need for energy consumption in all seasons.
When combined with eco-friendly energy options like solar, wind or geothermal,
log homes can even be nearly entirely self-sufficient in some instances.

Maintenance
of a log home is similar to any wood building, with occasional resealing needed
based on the weather. Plus, a quality log home will last for many decades,
resulting in a lower environmental impact throughout its lifespan and an
improved durability that makes them one of the most sustainable buildling options.

Schroeder
Log Home Supply has been meeting the needs of customers in the log home
industry since 1986. We offer guides, sealant, tools, fasteners and nearly
everything you need to build, maintain and repair your log home. Shop our full
product selection online now or call us today at 800-359-6614 to learn more.

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Now that the cold days of winter are finally starting to
recede, you’re probably pretty eager to get outside and catch up on some work
around the house. Why not start by treating your home to a little spring
cleaning? Log home construction is remarkably durable, but a few months of
harsh winter weather can still take a toll. Fortunately, a little seasonal
cleaning can go a long way toward preserving your log home for the future.

Exterior Wash

There are a number of cleaning products
available to help you remove all manner of grit and grime from your home’s
exterior. They can also curb the growth
of mold and mildew which are of particular concern after wet winters. These
products can be applied with a garden hose, so you won’t have to run out and
buy a pressure washer.

Inspect for Rot

As you wash your home, keep an eye out for any logs with rot
and decay. If you notice any significant rot, you may have to call in the
professionals to have it repaired or replaced. Whatever you do, don’t just ignore it. If you’re not sure
how to remedy the problem, seek a professional consultation to determine the
best course of action.

Apply Finish

Consider resealing your log home every few years. This will help to protect it from a number
of environmental threats such as water intrusions and insect invasions. You can
test the water-resistance of your log home with a spray bottle. Simply spray a
section of wood and watch to see if the water beads on the surface or soaks
into the wood. If it doesn’t bead, it’s time to reseal.

Clear Gutters

This is an essential maintenance item in any home, but it’s
especially important in log homes. Clogged gutters and downspouts can cause
rain water to run straight down your home’s exterior, increasing the risk of
mold and mildew growth. Prolonged exposure to rainfall can also lead to rot if
your home isn’t properly sealed. Keeping your gutters clear will ensure that
rain water is deposited safely away from your home.

Friday, March 25, 2016

All log homes need sealant to close the gaps between log
courses. Because even machine milled logs won’t lie perfectly flush against one
another, these sealants are necessary to prevent water intrusion and provide
insulation. These sealants typically fall into one of two categories – chinking
and caulking. Today we’ll compare the applications for both of these sealant
types.

Chinking

This is the type of sealant that has been traditionally used
in log homes for centuries. It forms the characteristic white bands between the
courses in older log homes. Whereas chinking was originally a Portland cement-based
mortar, today it is an acrylic compound designed for extra elasticity and
adhesion. Before chinking can be applied, a backer rod must be placed in the space
between the log courses. This ensures a firm seal between the joints. Next,
Chinking is applied over the backer rod, filling in the remaining gaps between
the logs. The width of the chinking in a given log home will depend on its
construction and the aesthetic preferences of the owners.

Caulking

This type of sealant is only used in modern, machine-milled
log homes. It’s very similar to the caulk you’ve probably used in your bathroom
or kitchen. Whereas chinking is designed to fill broad gaps between courses,
caulk is used to seal narrow gaps. Likewise, it doesn’t require backer rods.
The caulking in a machine-milled home is more or less invisible from a
distance. Caulk is also more elastic than chinking.

Whatever type of sealant you need for your, Schroeder Log
Home Supply, Inc. can help. Browse our inventory online, or give us a call
today for more information!

Monday, March 21, 2016

Rustic log furniture is increasing in popularity, and many
people are opting to build DIY log furniture and railings at their own cabin or
home. There are a number of options available when choosing a
tenon cutter. There may be other brands available on the market, but this
comparison will focus on E-Z Tenon Cutter, Lumberjack Tenon Cutters, and
Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutters.Scope, Style, and Size are three
considerations you may use to help choose the right tool:

-Scope

The first consideration is the scope of work or project. If
there is a plan to make log railings or furniture as a business venture, then
purchasing a higher quality but more expensive tool may be the right choice. If
this is just a weekend project at home and the tool may seldom be used again, then
a minimal investment would be preferable.

Important to note is that all the tenon cutters have blades that can be both sharpened and replaced. So regardless of which brand is chose and how much wear-and-tear the tools actually get, it's possible to keep the cutting edge sharp with blade honing and eventual blade replacement.

-Style

The profile style a tenon cutter leaves on the wood stock can
vary by brand and series. Some people prefer to see the two logs butt directly
against one another, while others prefer to see the taper from the full stock
down to the tenon peg inserted into the other log.

90º:
E-Z Tenon Cutter 90

60º:
Lumberjack Commercial Series, Lumberjack Industrial Series

45º:
E-Z Tenon Cutter 45

Radius/Radius Shoulder: Lumberjack Home Series, Lumberjack Pro-Series

90-degree shoulder (E-Z 90 shown)

60-degree taper (Industrial Series shown)

Radius Shoulder (Home Series shown)

It should be noted that while many people leave the
60º or 45º taper visible for aesthetic purposes, some prefer to use
a countersink. Tenon Cutter Countersinks are used to cut the funnel shaped impression into the post after drilling with a self-feed bit,
to accept the taper of the log rail. This permits the ability to obtain
tighter fits on furniture or to give a stronger shoulder fit on rails.

-Size

The size of the wood stock and the desired size of the tenon
are two considerations when choosing a cutter. If one was to pick just
one size of tenon cutter, 1-1/2” is probably most versatile. For most furniture
having a 1” and a 2” tenon cutter would be preferable. Some projects with
larger or smaller logs might require larger or smaller tenon cutters.

The E-Z Tenon Cutter gives an adjustable option to get a
variety of sizes out of one tool. With other tenon models, you would want one,
two, three, or more tenon cutters to use for cutting different components of the
log project.

-Summary

Most of the tenon cutters on the market will have options of
size to fit the project. The three considerations listed above, plus a summary
of each tenon cutter brand listed below may help to narrow your choice:

Pros: Inexpensive option. Self-centering
design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and
generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2 inch
steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Lifetime warranty for body and
shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage under
normal working conditions.

Cons: No IN-SIGHT measurement system (viewing slot on side) to
monitor length of tenon or to insert quick-stop bolt. Fewer size options.

Pros:Self-centering
design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and
generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2"
steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Patent pending IN-SIGHT
measurement system of slots and radial grooves at 1/2" intervals for
measurement of tenon length during cutting. Lifetime warranty for body and
shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage
under normal working conditions.

Pros: High quality construction, long lasting. Adjustable shaft to allow custom sizing of the length of the tenons. Two
high carbon steel blades.

Cons: Higher cost. Larger drill (3/4") required for some sizes.

The details given should help to make a choice when selecting the right tenon cutter for the work being done. If there are any other questions about choosing or using a tenon cutter, give us a call at 1-800-359-6614, or contact us through our website here.

Friday, March 11, 2016

When using an Albion caulk gun for
bulk caulking or chinking application, leather is a one-type-fits-all material
for packing cups and is included with the gun. The packing cups are the
plunger-type component that pulls the sealant into the barrel of the gun and
pushes it back out. In some situations one may choose to replace the leather packing
cups with a different type of material. Here is a general guide for when to use
which cup:

#21-1
Leather:Low friction, tough and durable, excellent
chemical resistance.Soak in motor oil
to maintain.May swell then break down
when used with water based materials.Oil more frequently or choose another packing cup for acrylics.

#21-7 Impregnated Leather:Similar to soft leather cups but stiffened
with wax to reduce water absorption and blow-by.

Thursday, February 25, 2016

A log home is defined, both aesthetically and functionally,
by the type of wood it’s constructed of. Different species of woods have unique
properties that make them better suited to certain environmental conditions. Some
wood species excel at resisting rot, while others offer superior insulation.
Your choice of wood will depend on both personal preference and practical
considerations. The good news is there’s no single right answer. The bad news is the list of options can seem
downright overwhelming. By identifying what properties are most important to
you, however, you can whittle down that list and make your decision easier. Let’s
start with the obvious.

Aesthetics

Let’s be honest – one of the reasons people like log homes
so much is simply because they look good.
Likewise, there’s no shame in choosing a wood species based in part on its
appearance. Bear in mind that certain species change in appearance as they age.
Wood preservatives can have an effect on the appearance of your log home as
well.

R-Value

This is the measure of thermal resistance in building materials.
The higher the R-value of a wood species, the better it will insulate your
home. If you live in a particularly hot or cold climate, a wood species with a
high R-value will help you to regulate the temperature inside your home.
Species such as Northern white cedar and white pine have particularly high R-values.

Decay Resistance

Did you know that wood produces natural toxins to combat
fungi growth and burrowing insects? These toxins continue to work even after a
tree has been felled and hewn into timbers. Some species, such as Western red cedar,
have especially high concentrations of these toxins, making them more decay-resistant.
If you live in a very wet or heavily-wooded area, a decay-resistant species
might be a good option. If you choose a species that’s not known for its decay resistance, however, don’t worry. Wood
preservatives can effectively protect your home from fungi and insects as well.

Cost

Finally we come to the ultimate practical consideration. The
cost of a given wood species will depend on a number of factors including your
location and the speed at which the species grows. Southern yellow pine, for
example, tends to be relatively inexpensive because it has a fast growth cycle
and is grown in large commercial crops in the Southeast. Wood prices fluctuate just
like any other commodity; keep an eye on the market to get the best possible
deal on your preferred species.

Monday, February 22, 2016

Borate (disodium octoborate tetrahydrate)is a common solution to preventing or
stopping fungal rot in wood, as well as
insect infestation. Borates come in several forms: powder, which is added to
water for application; liquid, which is carried in glycol; and concentrated
rods, two brands of which are CobraRod and Bor8 Rods.

CobraRod and Bor8 Rods(formerly known as Impel Rods) are
similar products in form and function. They are both dowels composed of
concentrated, compacted borate preservative. They are applied to logs and
timbers by drilling a hole to size, inserting the rod, and plugging the hole
with caulk, wooden dowels, or wooden or plastic plugs. They both sit dormant in
the wood, unless the moisture content of the wood reaches a point where rot
becomes a risk. At that time, the rods slowly dissolve into the wood and
prevent rot from happening. So, in terms of what they are and how they work,
CobraRod vs Bor8 Rods are two similar products (e.g. Pepsi vs Coke, Chevy vs
Ford).

How are they different? There are three primary differences
between the two brands: preservative, packaging, and point of activation.

Bor8 Rods

Preservative: Both
CobraRod and Bor8Rods have an active borate ingredient registered with the EPA
as a preservative. CobraRod has an additional copper preservative, which takes
care of some fungi unaffected by borate. The copper also gives CobraRod a dark green color, whereas Bor8 Rods remain looking borate-white.

Packaging: Though
it is just a matter of marketing and not performance, there are some
differences in the sizes and quantity packaging available between the rods. A
minor detail, but if a certain size or smaller quantity is needed then one
choice may be better than another. For smaller wood applications like window and door frames, Bor8 Rods offer 1/4"x1/2" rods for minimal treatment areas.

Point of Activation:
Bor8 Rods begin to dissolve and diffuse into the wood around 25% moisture
content. CobraRod activates at around 20% moisture content.

Either rod can be used preventatively or remedially, but it
is good insurance to apply them preventatively to lower or exposed logs that
may see moisture for constant duration. Logs sitting at deck level, log
ends jutting past protection from eaves, and sill prone to collecting rain or
snow are all good places to consider inserting preventative borate protection
through these rods.

Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or visit our website if you have any other
questions about using rods for rot prevention.

A publication of

Schroeder Log Home Supply

Welcome

Since 1986, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. has been the “Ask Us!” resource providing expert maintenance and application information; offering quality products. We offer this blog as one outlet for information and perspectives regarding log homes, log cabins, and other wooden structures. Please feel free to comment on any posts with thoughts you may have. If you have further questions or comments, please give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or visit our website.

About Me

Since 1986, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. has been the “Ask Us!”
resource providing expert maintenance and application information;
offering quality products including backer rod, caulking, chinking, log
home finishes, fasteners, sealant tapes, tools, wood treatments, and
restoration products for log homes, youth camps, resorts, historic
wooden structures, and wood sided buildings. We also carry log home
books and videos for both inspiration and instruction. Our full color
catalog provides a wealth of helpful information as well as the products
we carry. Whether you
are in the process of building a new log home or restoring an older log
structure, our knowledgeable and friendly staff are ready to help you
choose the products that will work the best for your particular project.