I know this is a pain for many.Just been to the dealer to have my fuel filter replaced as the light stayed on and did not flash.Anyway, the sequence is as follows to reset the light.Once the filter has been replaced and the wire plugs are loose,1. replace the both wire plugs2. switch ignition on, at this stage the fuel light will still be on.3. remove the positive terminal from the battery and wait for 1 minute.4. this resets the whole computer, gauges everything.5. After 1 minute, replace the positive terminal.6. switch on the ignition and the light will be off.Hope this will help others who need to replace a filter while travelling in the bush. RegardsBasil

According to the dealer, the light will come on and flash if the filter has water in it, and if the light stays on without flashing, the filter is dirty and needs to be replaced. the computer picks up that the there is a difference in the in and out pressure and activates the light.I bought the vehicle second hand with 44000 on the clock and it has now got 48550km. the light came on during my trip to Lesotho and I had it changed this morning.Normally I carry a spare fitler which is quite easy to replace, but I did not know how to reset the light. Now I know the sequence and will be carrying at least two spare filters when travelling long distance.I will be replacing filters every 15000km seeing that it is no longer required by the dealer to change on service intervals, they only replace when the light comes on and I have not yet seen a dealership in the middle of the desert.So know how to replace a filter and know how to reset the light.Basil

Thanks Basil, I also had a similar problem on my way to Malelane, the Toy dealer also explained to me the sequence to reset the light, can't remember everything he said, but he didn't say anything of disconnecting the battery. But if you say that it works I will do it next time. Thanks

Hi Jacques,Even with the filter being 'dirty' before reaching Sani Pass, my vehicle still averaged 12.7 km per litre from Durban to Oxbow and home via golden gate. Not bad and the one thing that has prevented me from buying a Hilux in the past was the high fuel consumption, this D4D motor is great, couldn't believe the power and consumption, very impressed.

Aquanaut wrote:Hi Jacques,Even with the filter being 'dirty' before reaching Sani Pass, my vehicle still averaged 12.7 km per litre from Durban to Oxbow and home via golden gate. Not bad and the one thing that has prevented me from buying a Hilux in the past was the high fuel consumption, this D4D motor is great, couldn't believe the power and consumption, very impressed.

Don't know how you managed to get 12.7 km/l, The best I ever got with my 3.0 d4d was 10km/l driving 120 km/h. Even when I was in Namibie driving 90 - 100km/h I only got 9 - 10 km/l. But I had a chip in that I took out after I was in Namibie, from then I got 10 km/l @ 120km/h.

Reset my KM/L computer when I left Durbs, filled up at Himeville and had 23 km left according to my range on the computer before I ran out of diesel, this when I pulled in at my home. According to Garmin, 857km travelledMaybe it is a long freewheel from 3500m above sea level in Lesotho to Durban.

Aquanaut wrote:Reset my KM/L computer when I left Durbs, filled up at Himeville and had 23 km left according to my range on the computer before I ran out of diesel, this when I pulled in at my home. According to Garmin, 857km travelledMaybe it is a long freewheel from 3500m above sea level in Lesotho to Durban.

With our diesel in SA I recomend you replace the filter at every service. To reset the light is quick and easy - With ignition off, unplug the top plug from the fuel filter housing, Start the vehicle and quickly put the plug back in. Light will go off after 3 sec. Job done. 10 seconds.

There is a madness about been mad that only a mad person can understand.Diesel and dust is where home is at.

rebuilder wrote:With our diesel in SA I recomend you replace the filter at every service. To reset the light is quick and easy - With ignition off, unplug the top plug from the fuel filter housing, Start the vehicle and quickly put the plug back in. Light will go off after 3 sec. Job done. 10 seconds.

The first time I replaced the filter on my D4D was when I gave it the first service at 100 000ks. It did not look as if it had ever been replaced. The light did not come on however. Since then I have been replacing it every 20000ks. The light has never come on before. At 220 000 k's I replaced it and two weeks ago after a trip to Vaalwater the light came on and stayed on. I replaced the filter but it really did not seem to be that dirty. I used this procedure posted by rebuilder to reset the light.

"With ignition off, unplug the top plug from the fuel filter housing, Start the vehicle and quickly put the plug back in. Light will go off after 3 sec. Job done. 10 seconds."

Tried this tip and I confirm that it does the Job - ""With ignition off, unplug the top plug from the fuel filter housing, Start the vehicle and quickly put the plug back in. Light will go off after 3 sec. Job done. 10 seconds."

Hilux Brett wrote:Tried this tip and I confirm that it does the Job - ""With ignition off, unplug the top plug from the fuel filter housing, Start the vehicle and quickly put the plug back in. Light will go off after 3 sec. Job done. 10 seconds."

Hi there been having this problem of light going on every few hundred kilometers. I took both my tanks down cleaned them and there was not much debri in the tank. A friend of mine removed tanks for the second time and found that the suction piece with very fine filter over it was completely clogged up with debri. We blew out the whole system fitted it back and reset the light and the problem is solved. I noticed this is a common problem on the vigo specially as you come up north towards Zambia where I am based with terrible fuel happy driving

Aaaand so my fuel light came on yesterday on my way home from Tonteldoos (Yes - It's an actual place...) so off to my local stealers with a tub of vaseline and credit card, I will be replacing it myself. Will try take pics so we can all do D-I-Y :D

You don't need to get the diesel filter from the dealers. The Gud filter number is G1142 and the Fram number is C10353. I have been using either of these filters for the past 157000 Kilometers. You can also try Goldwagen. The only real "trick" is that you should make sure that the ring is tight when you screw it back on again. Get some reference point and make sure that it is in the same position. I have seen where the ring was not on tight enough. It did not leak but the filter element disintegrated.

I can assure you that they do not take out every filter and check if it has an original Toyota part number on it. In many instances they do not even pick up when a performance chip was fitted to the vehicle and in some instances where the dealers pick it up they say or do nothing about it and a performance chip is a much more likely reason for them to refute a warranty claim than fitting a replacement filter from a reputable brand in between regular service intervals

Should they not replace the filter anyway if the bakkie is still under a service plan? When I replaced the filter on my lux at 100 000 ks (The first time I serviced it) the filter was horrendous! I asked a former Toyota mechanic about it and he said they do not replace the filter if the light isn't on. I cannot vouch for the truth of this but I can tell you that by the look of things it wasn't replaced.

a Warranty claim can only become an issue if the diesel pump or injectors fail. If you think there is a reasonable prospect of this happening then by all means buy the Toyota filter. I can assure you it's not going to fail because of you fitting a Gud filter. Toyota probably sources its local oem filters from Gud anyway.

The most important thing is to do what you are comfortable with. I was just hoping to save you some Vaseline!!

I forgot to mention that the GUD and FRAM filters are one and the same filter.

Mars wrote:I can assure you that they do not take out every filter and check if it has an original Toyota part number on it. In many instances they do not even pick up when a performance chip was fitted to the vehicle and in some instances where the dealers pick it up they say or do nothing about it and a performance chip is a much more likely reason for them to refute a warranty claim than fitting a replacement filter from a reputable brand in between regular service intervals

Should they not replace the filter anyway if the bakkie is still under a service plan? When I replaced the filter on my lux at 100 000 ks (The first time I serviced it) the filter was horrendous! I asked a former Toyota mechanic about it and he said they do not replace the filter if the light isn't on. I cannot vouch for the truth of this but I can tell you that by the look of things it wasn't replaced.

a Warranty claim can only become an issue if the diesel pump or injectors fail. If you think there is a reasonable prospect of this happening then by all means buy the Toyota filter. I can assure you it's not going to fail because of you fitting a Gud filter. Toyota probably sources its local oem filters from Gud anyway.

The most important thing is to do what you are comfortable with. I was just hoping to save you some Vaseline!!

I forgot to mention that the GUD and FRAM filters are one and the same filter.

No worries Mars, I also hope to save from the stealers - one of the many great features of this club!!!

Unfortunately no service plan, only mech warranty. I will Check out the GUD filters. And ya, OEM is probably just a special branding from GUD. In this day & age, as much saving on vaseline as possible I have to take my truck in for the "Slight shudder on pullof" - seems the bearings are gone. there is indeed upward/downward play. Will see what the Mech Warranty says about it.

So what happened was, Removed the entire fuel filter housing from the engine bay, obviously disconnecting the 2 wires and the 2 hoses (Inlet/Outlet)

When I had changed the filter, put everything back and started pomping that little knoppie. Nothing was happening, couldnt start (Suction from fuel pump etc) nada, niks. So I disconnected the outlet (to the engine) and saw that the pump WAS working, as I could hear the air movement. Turns out, It was the wrong air movement.... It was the Inlet pipe from the tank side that was making the noise. When I re-connected the fuel line, the o-ring became unseated and obviously once it was connected, there was no Vacuum to suck in the fuel from the tank...

So, Note for everyone else. If you disconnect the fuel inlet, MAKE SURE THE LITTLE O RING IS in it's HOME!

Problem solved, Bakkie running again. Damn what a panic... I have no other wheels haha

Sorry I missed your panic there Stuart. Happy you got it sorted. The devil is in the detail but at least your experience can help someone else who has the same thing happening to them. Did you battle to get the ring back on tightly?

No wonder you battled. Next time only disconnect the electric plug on top and the fuel line running to the high pressure pump. (The one that points more toward the front of the engine). There is still more than enough room to undo and tighten the ring that holds the assembly together. All you need to do is put some pieces of cloth down so as not to spill diesel inside the engine bay.