Your #2: No. Solenoid manual, General Precision December 1964 shows no difference in operation for the #0, #2, or #3 solenoid. All should be connected to a 3 cell battery case. It does show the #3 as discontinued.
A solenoid is a current dependent device. The supply has to be capable of supplying adequate current to energize the solenoid. 110V or 220V household power will energize the solenoid but may produce an extremely high current which would burn the solenoid out. Keeping the solenoid energized for a long period of time may damage it also.

The solenoid manual states not to use a BC cartridge to operate the solenoid.

Your #3: Putting a bulb in the Graflite without a reflector in place and firing the bulb is called "bare bulb" flash. The guide number for the bulb in use will be lower than if it were used with a reflector.

The only risk is that enough moisture gets in there it will cause excessive drain on the batteries causing them to run down quicker than normal and will result in corrosion in the Graflite. I would make a cap for the Graflite that seals the top.

If I were to go shooting in the rain or other wet environment I would make a rain coat or waterproof housing for the camera as water will cause corrosion and damage film if it gets wet in a box or holder._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I'd had a good look though the manual already, and while it helped, it didnt conclusively answer my questions (or, perhaps more likely, it maybe did answer them but I wasnt capable of deciphering the answers it gave me). And while it contains fairly easy to understand instructions for a number of possible flash set ups, none of them are precisely what I'm trying to do (as I'm actually trying NOT to use the flash element of the Graflite at all, which I guess isnt a scenario which had occurred to the manufacturers as very likely).

Anyway, I assume that the answer to my question no.1 is: "yes, connecting the Graflite to the solenoid via a HH to male-bipost cord is the only way to make the red button on the Graflite trigger the camera shutter".

Your info re. question #2 (solenoid compatibility) is very helpful. Will try to track down the necessary cord...

I think you misunderstood question no.3 slightly though, cos, as I said, I will NOT be using the Graflite as a flash gun at all, in any way, bare bulb or otherwise. What I meant was that I will be using just the battery-case/hand-grip, with nothing on top at all: no dish, and no bulb (if I need flash then I'll be using modern electronic studio flash). So my concern was about water getting in to the open socket (or whatever you call it...the hole on top where the bulb and dish should go). Does that make sense?

Sorry, my lack of technical knowledge doesnt help in communicating my questions clearly (though at least I've finally worked out what the solenoid is...which had previously eluded me for several months).

Anyway, yeh, good idea, I can probably make/adapt some kind of cap for the top of the Graflite.

There is a socket marked Solenoid. You connect the cord from the solenoid to that socket and the solenoid should energize when the red button is pushed.

Now, being you not technically inclined, I won't tell you that you can tinn the bare ends of a HH cord that has been twisted and trimmed to fit into the solenoid sockets on the solenoid.

I did understand the # 3 question, I just supplied too much information.
No harm will occur if you push the red button with batteries installed and no bulb.
Again, I would cover the top as moisture will cause corrosion and destroy the switch and contacts first then the case. Finding parts that fit properly would be hard to do.

The solenoid is made up of several parts: the shutter trip link is connected to the armature (aka plunger) via the link ball. This assembly is held in the solenoid body via the cap. The cap is what is turned to fine tune the solenoid adjustment. There is a spring under the armature that pushes the armature up when current is not applied to the solenoid. Corrosion sets in on the armature and the inside of the case where it and the spring go. Remove the cap, armature with shutter trip lever attached, and spring. Use very fine sand paper, emery cloth, or a scotch brite pad to remove any corrosion from the armature, spring, and inside of the solenoid then reassemble. The armature should slide freely in the case when pressed down and released. If the coil is bad get another solenoid._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Thing is, I have one of these cords already, and couldn't work out what to do with it. I tried to fit it onto the solenoid, but the prongs seem too big, and anyway there's the extra 3rd prong that gets in the way.

If it is meant to connect graflite to solenoid will someone please explain to me how...before I go and waste money on another cord unnecessarily.

I also have another cord with this "tri-post" tip on the end too. Its a Y cord that goes from two HH tips which connect to the Graflite - one labeled "shutter" the other "remote" - and while it's clear to me where I should plug these in on the Graflite I've no idea what the other end is supposed to attach to.

There are no cables with this kind of tip in the Graflite manual (first place I looked).

Thing is, I have one of these cords already, and couldn't work out what to do with it. I tried to fit it onto the solenoid, but the prongs seem too big, and anyway there's the extra 3rd prong that gets in the way.

IF the HH plug makes contact with the two outer plugs it is for flash; if the HH plug makes contact with the center and the outer pin closest to it then it is for using the Graflite to trip the solenoid on a Super/ Super Speed Graphic.

Quote:

I also have another cord with this "tri-post" tip on the end too. Its a Y cord that goes from two HH tips which connect to the Graflite - one labeled "shutter" the other "remote"

Full sync cord for a Super or Super Speed Graphic.

Your ebay linked cord is over priced even at the reduced price. This seller always tries to get funds to make it to the neighboring galaxy on every thing they list.

http://www.paramountcords.com/graflex.asp
Scroll down and look at tip #40.
A Paramount custom cord with tip #40 on the left, HH on the right, and a 12 inch straight cord $30.
Go to an electronics shop and ask them if they can make one for you._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.