Saturday, 22 January 2011

Looks like it will be hard getting the essential stuff through customs...

Better do a re inventory of the rack for Cerro Torre this year. As its been reported that David Lama is back on Cerro Torre to bolt from the summit down. I guess the prick needs a tope rope. This must mark an all time low in modern climbing history. Go tope rope on a hill with in your league and play with kids sharing your shitty values. Don't pollute the mountains with this kind of shit.

Add the following if you are heading out there any time soon...

Bolt Cutter

Hack Saw

Fixed key to remove Bolt Hangers

Pepper Spray to fend off Guides jamming the Compressor route so David Lama can tope rope Cerro Torre

Knuckle Brace to hit any one related to David Lama his climbing sponsors and Red Bull

Be ware SHIT happens in big mountains. Tents blow up all the time when Epi gas bottles default. Ropes getting cut down due to safety for non jugging climbers. Gear get stolen. All sorts of shit happens. In 99 per cent of the cases this is just pure evil but right now I don't give a shit if any thing happens to the David Lama Circus.

I would not think twice before cutting his haul bags off or any other added trash up there if I pass it.

This self absorbed prick is as unwanted as EBOLA and add as much value to climbing as a shit bag coming off El Cap.

Friday, 21 January 2011

A few members of the Kazakhstan National team pull of a stunningly fast winter ascent yesterday at 14.02 local time. Kazakh hard men Vassiliy Pivtsov, Sofrygin Alexander and Gabbasov ldar pulled off the 3e ever winter ascent of Kantengri. The most northerly placed summit over 7000 meters. Round trip Almaty - Summit - Almaty 13 days! This peak is hard to bag in summer and is well know for its harsh conditions.

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

I have received some fun... some exited... some a wee bit bitter... comments to the fact that a NO boulder guy like me is going to be part of the 2011 MOON Climbing team. I'm not a boulder climber at all. Yet... I'm not up and coming at all. I'm a very mediocre sport climber. I'm more of a fat slob. I'm trying to be an alpinist but I mostly fail on my projects (thats kind of the concept in alpinism). But I try. I try as hard as I can to be active in as many different areas of climbing as I can. I share my different experiences from climbing with you on this blog and else where... I write about climbing. I have opinions about climbing. But most important I have fun climbing and I love climbing!

Saturday, 8 January 2011

What about your bedside manners? Well I guess thats kind of irrelevant for climbing but it might tell us some thing about you as a climber... I listed what I have by my bed and what I brows through before lights out and sweet Patagonic dreams arrive.

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

Had a great outing yesterday on Aiguille du Midi but man it was freezing cold up there and with the wind on the bridge even putting the crampons on was a daunting task. Passing the Digital Crack tower was magic. Digital Crack is the highest located 8a in Europe. We rapped off the bridge and did a short but quite interesting route on the NW Face. I have climbed it a few times in the past but never in so dry conditions. Still great climbing.