The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Enjoyable and fairly sustained route (after you get through the bottom, anyhow). First clip is perhaps a bit higher than you might want it but a stick clip is always an option. Work yourself into the giant hueco and then reach up for a jug and pull an interesting move over a bulge.

After working through the bulge, take all the rest you need and head right and straight up through the business. Sustained and steep through the next three bolts. Crux comes after the third bolt.

I have no idea who Charles Bitting is but he had nothing to do with the FA of this route. My brother Chris and I put this route up around the same time we did Jemima and Jeremy Fischer. It probably only matters to me but thought I would mention it.