Things to look out for when buying an XR100

Recommended Posts

I did a search and out of the 500 threads that were returned, I was surprised I didn't find a thread dedicated to this question in the first 10 pages of results (100 threads). Even if it's a Honda forum!

I'd welcome all comments, but specifically, I'm looking at buying a 1989 XR100 that looks to be in decent condition from the photos for $400.

I realize this is a points ignition system for this year. It has paperwork (always good, even if I don't intend to plate it) and the seller seems to be older (wiser at least, doesn't seem like the type to beat the bike) and probably the original owner. He also seems motivated to sell as he offered to meet me between where he lives and where I live. I'll be meeting him in about two weeks.

The only Honda we've ever owned was an XR50 which was great. I did almost nothing to that bike besides add gasoline.

So, that being said, what should I be looking out for on this bike and XR100s in general? If I don't buy this one, I'll be looking for another XR/CRF 100. Also, feel free to add anything specific to my intended use. I've got about 20 threads noted, but more information is a good thing.

ETA: one last thing, what's the deal with "one piece stainless valves"?

There is a specific Kitaco kit for the points XR100. Off the Kitaco site its 751-1410250

A number of companies can bring it in to USA.

One warning about reving a XR100 even with the Takegawa kit and ignition. Valves, usually the exhaust, come apart unless they are one piece stainless steel ones. A few of us have been there.

Edited December 20, 2011 by Smacaroni

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

Newer 100's can be had for not much more. Not that there is anything wrong with the older ones but I'd hold out for a CDI model. The cdi components can be had on ebay but for what you save on getting a points model, you'll spend more on converting it.

XR80 head? Why? The 80 head has smaller valves.

The xr80 front wheel will bolt on and go giving you 16"s front and rear. Bridgestone BT45's work wonderfully and last a long time.

Valves? My stock valves hold up fine to the abuse I put them through racing mini moto.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

Other than points to CDI, there really haven't been any significant improvements over the years, has there?

I will admit I'm on the fence as to the price. The ones I've been seeing in my immediate area are late 90s/early 00s from $700-$1300 (the high end are the typical overpriced cause seller put an overpriced obnoxious muffler and stickers on it type ads).

If it was penny over $400, I wouldn't even be discussing it.

The valves are the same size, the combustion chamber is smaller. Intake/exhaust runners are smaller too. Reports I've read is XR80 higher compression head results in an improvement.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

True, but I have self respect, somebody's selling something that's worth $1,000 but asking $2,000. I might email him and say "your price is really out of line, let me know if you still are trying to sell this in a month". Usually, that drops the price down to reality pretty quick. I'm not balsy enough to show up with half the asking price and say "this is what it's worth to me". Maybe 20% less, but not half.

Right now though, I'm mostly looking at condition, if the bike looks beat, I don't have time to fix it up. I've already got my mini-moto project since I'll be giving the PW80x-Z to my kid for the same series. I really want something that's buy the XR80 wheel, slap tires on it and go. The CDI-maybe/XR80 head can wait till summer.

The good news, I'm not in a rush, but like the '89, if the right bike comes along at the right price I don't want to miss it.

This one still has the warning stickers on it, other than boot wear and a few scratches on the cases, it barely looks ridden.

Glad to hear what I though was correct, the XR/CRF 100 is basically unchanged was correct. But I repeat myself.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

When I'm selling, or for that matter buying, I don't discuss price via email or on the phone. That discussion will get you nowhere.

In person and cash being counted has a much more dramatic effect. You'll see in person pretty quickly how desperate someone is for some cash. Right now with Christmas around the corner, half of asking will work much better than ever.

Is it a nice way to buy? Probably not, but screw nice I want stuff cheap .

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

I can't disagree with you. It's not my style. I get stuff cheap by lying in wait and gambling on when to strike, like a crocodile. I'll leave it to those who want to chase their prey to do so. I wasn't built to run.

I usually buy our bikes when there's snow on the ground. Picked up a TT-R225 and KlX125 for half their value because it was January. Both had titles and one is now plated. The KLX may get the D/S treatment, I haven't made up my mind.

I bet I could get an even better deal if I was willing to wait longer, I have a feeling this bike isn't going anywhere. But I've got other things to do. If that means it costs me a hundred bucks more, oh well.

I can go even cheaper if I wanted to, there's one for $350 and another one in pieces for $200?? but the $350 doesn't look so hot and the $200 I'd definitely be working for it one way or another.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

If you can get a 2001+ bike, they have better main shaft and a valve seal on the intake. Plus around 1995 the beefed up the head fins. ALso, around the 2001 or so they improved the shock. You know what you're doing you can actually rebuild it.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

The shock as is, even new is pretty much junk. But my friend can add a reservoir and whatever else to actually make it work. Yep add later model crank swaps in and out. I never fussed with them and opted for a Works shock, but lately he has been fiddling with all kinds of set ups for a shock.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

The shock as is, even new is pretty much junk. But my friend can add a reservoir and whatever else to actually make it work. Yep add later model crank swaps in and out. I never fussed with them and opted for a Works shock, but lately he has been fiddling with all kinds of set ups for a shock.

Can he do anything with the OEM shock for an adult rider using it for road racing???

Contact info?

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

He's testing them now. But between work, kid, a nagging girlfriend it's hard to get stuff done quick. But some years have a real bladder and I think he can set those up however you like. But it's trying to get the time to test everything.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

I think these bikes are pretty straight forward besides the points vs cdi and you're already keen to that. You sound like you know what to look for use your best judgment. The bike looks nice from the photo. If it's not smoking, and there isn't a bunch of chatter out of the topend I think its a good deal for 400.... better make that 300... or 325.

One thing that I look for is original hardware. I bought my wifes bike and it was missing a the rear upper engine mount bolt, The bowl was missing the correct drain screw and it idled funny. But easy fixes like that drop the price.

Share this post

Link to post

Share on other sites

Back in business, going to look at a bike on Saturday. From what I can tell, the guy is young, but he seems mature and well aware of the games people play and doesn't seem like the type to jerk you around.

Here's the ad:

-Very clean and well maintained

-I am the original owner and oil changes and regular maintenance have been maintained since i bought it in 03.

-Nothing wrong with this bike mechanically or cosmetically.

-Starts on the first kick and takes whatever you can dish out to it and then some!

-5spd ~ 1 down 4 up

-In the future it may need a rear tire. ($35) I have not seen a performance drop because of it.

-serious buyers with cash may take it for a test drive.

I see minor issues with the bike, other than tires which don't matter since they'll be replaced, the chain is too tight (and probably should be replaced), some rust on the stand, shifter and header - but doesn't look like it lived it's entire life outside or anything detrimental.

Anything I'm missing? I don't see anything missing and the levers aren't bent (which is really uncommon for the bikes in the price range I want to pay).

Has paperwork - that alone is worth something to me. Unfortunately, the photos look like they're four or five months old due to the vegetation.