Used Ravager - right front knuckle arm: the threads in the bottom hole where the 4x10mm cap screw goes is stripped. The knuckle arm bushing on the top is missing . Do I need to order new parts or is there a way to fix this?
The left side looks ok but apparently the previous owner had some problems there also since there are different screws - but they are not stripped. A few things but still a very good Ravager.

Used Ravager - right front knuckle arm: the threads in the bottom hole where the 4x10mm cap screw goes is stripped. The knuckle arm bushing on the top is missing . Do I need to order new parts or is there a way to fix this?
The left side looks ok but apparently the previous owner had some problems there also since there are different screws - but they are not stripped. A few things but still a very good Ravager.

YOu can get the CNC ravager knuckles or convert it to a Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement. The jammin ones are held on with nuts, they don't thread into the knuckles themselves.

I will probably get the ravager knuckel arms just to get it running but am interested in getting the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement -- it looks like the previous owner had problem with the knuckle arms since there are different screws in all the knucle arms. To convert do I just get the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arm -- is that all the parts I need? I can get the Jammin manual from the Ofna site for part numbers.

I will probably get the ravager knuckel arms just to get it running but am interested in getting the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement -- it looks like the previous owner had problem with the knuckle arms since there are different screws in all the knucle arms. To convert do I just get the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arm -- is that all the parts I need? I can get the Jammin manual from the Ofna site for part numbers.

Hey thanks - you did all the search work already. I really don't understand why they put threaded parts like that (Ravager) on a buggy that takes so much stress. I think I will go ahead and convert to the Jammin set up.

Thank you for all the info - and I agree that either way is better. But I still don't understand why rc companies (not just Ofna) put threaded parts like that on the steering and suspension. It seems from a manufacturing view it would be just as easy to design them with a nut to secure the screw. Just an opinion.

Thank you for all the info - and I agree that either way is better. But I still don't understand why rc companies (not just Ofna) put threaded parts like that on the steering and suspension. It seems from a manufacturing view it would be just as easy to design them with a nut to secure the screw. Just an opinion.

Well whoever designed em i'm sure thought it was a good idea at the time.

You are right. I'm sure I would never have given it a second thought if I didn't have to fix it. I guess it's easy to find something to complain about -- so I'll brag on the Ofna buggies a bit. They are very well made -even the entry level - and not hard to learn to work on even for a beginner. I'm sure the fine tuning will take some more expertise -- but I'm having fun with my Ultra Comp 2 and Ravager.

You are right. I'm sure I would never have given it a second thought if I didn't have to fix it. I guess it's easy to find something to complain about -- so I'll brag on the Ofna buggies a bit. They are very well made -even the entry level - and not hard to learn to work on even for a beginner. I'm sure the fine tuning will take some more expertise -- but I'm having fun with my Ultra Comp 2 and Ravager.

Well since you have an LX comp also, why don't you take a look at my thread about getting rid of that annoying screw lidded LX comp radio box..

I will check that out. I don't have to take my batteries out often -- I put a Peak racing 1600 Hump pack in and exchanged the switch to :
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL303&P=ML
so i can charge my battery without taking it out of the box. I did that on the Ravager also. It works very well.