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Hope I got this right...

Hello,

So I've been lurking around recently and am considering on getting an automag. I was hoping I can get some clarification on what I would use...

In my case I would want a simple semi-auto with a lvl 10 bolt, nothing fancy in terms of rate of fire as I have seen the madness when you have an RT and I don't like to burn through paint alot. I imagine I would need something like a ninja tank with the SHP regulator (higher pressure the better for operation)? Or would the regular regulator be ok?

Considering it'd be a normal semi-auto I would be ok with a revvy too right? In my head the current setup is a 68 automag either angled or vertical feed with or without a ULE body and a lvl 10 bolt with a ninja tank and revy loader...Did I miss anything? I'd appreciate any input on the matter.

A shp reg won't be necessary if you're not looking for an enhanced rt effect. Sounds like you aren't looking to waste a bunch paint. So any classic valved marker should get you where you wanna go. A level 10 bolt is recommended. Yes a revy loader will be sufficient if thats what you wanna use. A ule body will save ya some weight and simplify things for ya. You should be able to find something with everything i mentioned for $300 or less.

only thing left is barrel choice, if you go ule its cocker threaded, the standard classic mag is a twistlock(my personal favorite) and with todays undersized paint you may have to shop around to find barrels to match your choice in paint. there is a twistlock to cocker adapter you can get for around $40.00 if you want to go that route..and welcome to the mag family I doubt you will be disappointed.

Yeah I mean I'll lay down some shots to keep people's heads down but nothing close to people using spires or rotors... I didn't think a regular regulator would do it! So the higher pressure is only if you are going for the RT's effect then? I'll see if the classifieds brings up any lvl 10 ULE for me to grab. I'll want to pick up the CF tank first and an on/off asa...I'll stick with cocker threads since my other guns are the same way.

Anything I should know about concerning their maintenance? And is there any difference in the trigger type? The blade triggers seem to offer a faster rate of fire...

Anything I should know about concerning their maintenance? And is there any difference in the trigger type? The blade triggers seem to offer a faster rate of fire...

Couple drops of oil, and use it. I personally like single triggers myself. Just a preference of mine. Really just depends on what you're comfortable with. The longer trigger will cut down the force needed to fire the gun though. You could also try and find a RT on/off for the classic valve. You won't get the RT effect but it will make for a nice snappy trigger feel.

Find one with a retro valve if you can. They aren't much more than a classic valve. The retro valve will reduce the chance of short stroking due to its increased recharge rate.

The point there also being that RT is mostly in your finger when your bottle is supplying below about 1000 psi or so. If you find a good deal on an RT type valve, don't pass on it just because it is an RT type. At 800 psi, they behave with little RT effect.

I can only think of four things to avoid with an automag build;

1) DON'T try to mix a Classic RT marker with other automag parts without knowing the differences.
2) DON'T use the old powerfeed plug. Throw it away and buy a new one.
3) DON'T try to feed a high pressure RT setup with a revvy.
4) DON'T use a ULT kit in a classic valve, just not worth it.

There may be more to be added.

Personally, I hate plastic feed elbows with any battery powered loader, on an automag or not.

When you are playing hard, a level 10 bolt is wonderful thing. The simplicity of the foamie-less level 7 is nice, and you can get by without a level 10, but a level 10 definitely adds play-ability.

ULE body is lighter than SS and takes Cocker threaded barrels. Allows for easier location and use of Freak barrel systems. Classic valve with an L10 if set up properly will eliminate chops. RTPro on/off makes it a lighter pull and higher ROF especially when coupled with the Intelliframe. Double trigger=two fingers better than one as it reduces finger fatigue. I personally prefer blade style triggers, but the double will work as well. Revvy will keep up to like 10-12bps IIRC.

Upgrades:

You can ULE mill the rail for less weight. Frame can be ULEd as well if preferred. Second detent can be added to the ULE body if you upgrade loaders. No real reason to though as you would be really hard pressed to outshoot a revvy without an RT effect. You can buy an Air America aluminum back for the valve which will reduce weight. Carbon fiber foregrip if you are still looking to reduce weight. All sorts of Barrel systems you can upgrade to. Personally I like the deadly wind carbon Fibur barrels. One piece freak bored carbon fiber barrels. Light as all get out, spiral ported.

All said and done, just the basics in the first list, you would be looking at spending probably $425-450 if you buy used and really shop around for deals. If you are in a hurry and buy the first parts you see, you're probably looking at closer to $500. I would suggest looking for something in the BST's here and on MCB as well as Ebay. Find something that is as close to the set up you are wanting and buy it. Sell off the parts you don't need and buy the items you do. In the long run buying a completed marker is typically much cheaper than piecing it together.