Put the sweetbreads in a colander and place under running cold water for an hour, to rinse off all impurities. Place a pan of water on a high heat and, when boiling, drain the sweetbreads and drop them in the pot. Stir and cook for a minute only. Drain in a colander, lay the sweetbreads on a tray and cover with another that is weighted down. Leave for half an hour, until they have cooled. Peel the sweetbreads, removing only the little pieces of fat and membrane adhering to the outside. Cook the peas in boiling water seasoned with salt and a little sugar. Finely chop the garlic and chop the almonds very small.

Heat a heavy-based frying pan. Put a spoonful of flour on a plate, add salt and milled pepper, toss the sweetbreads in the flour and shake off any excess. Pour in enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan and lay in the breads in one layer. Once they have turned a pleasing gold, turn and add the garlic/almond mix. Cook for a three to three to four minutes, until golden brown. Add the butter and peas, raise the heat, add the mint and adjust the seasoning. Serve at once.

Roast leg of lamb in the abruzzi manner

The milk of the sheep of Abruzzi region is used to make Pecorino. It is unlikely that you'll get authentic Italian lamb in the UK, but this manner of cooking can be emulated with our own produce, as long as it's top quality.

1 2-2.3kg, leg of lamb, boned and butterflied

5-6 cloves garlic

Sea salt

A fully-charged pepper mill

3 tbsp good olive oil

900g good waxy potatoes

2 small sprigs rosemary

Ask your butcher to prepare the meat for you. Preheat the oven to 225C/ 425F/gas mark 7. Peel the garlic, cut it into thick slivers and insert into the flesh of the lamb. Liberally season the meat with salt and pepper. Peel the potatoes, cut them into 2.5cm dice and rinse under cold water.

Heat a big roasting tray in the oven. Remove the tray from the oven, pour in the oil, lay the lamb in the bottom and surround it with the potatoes. Put the tray back in the oven and, after five minutes, reduce the heat to 160C/325F/gas mark 3, and scatter salt and pepper over the potatoes. Push the rosemary into the meat, and scatter a few leaves among the spuds, then turn the meat and potatoes over. Cook for another 20 minutes, then transfer the lamb to a serving dish. Return the potatoes to the oven until crisp, then tip them and all the cooking juices into the serving dish and take the lot to the table. (In Italy, they sprinkle grated Pecorino over the spuds - by all means do the same, as long as you can get hold of the good stuff.)

Rack of lamb with mustard and parsley crust

Old-fashioned and brilliant.

3 racks lamb, with 18 chops in total

1 big handful flat-leaf parsley

2 big handfuls white breadcrumbs

Sea salt and fresh black pepper

2-3 large tbsp Dijon mustard

Ask your butcher to chine and trim the racks. Heat the oven to 225C/425F/gas mark 7. Finely chop the parsley and mix with the breadcrumbs and seasonings. Spread the mustard over the fat on the lamb, then dip the racks into the crumb/ parsley mix - the crust should be evenly distributed.

Heat a roasting tray and pour in a little oil. Entwine the bones of two racks, like two pieces of a jigsaw puzzle, and lay them, crust-side down, in the oil. Lay the other rack beside them. (Alternatively, lay the three racks, bones upwards, side by side.) Cook for 10-12 minutes for medium rare. Leave to sit for 10 minutes before carving.

Lamb korma

Come summertime, I get cravings for Indian food and start leafing through An Invitation To Indian Cooking, by Madhur Jaffrey, an all-time favourite.

3 tbsp ground coriander

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tbsp desiccated unsweetened coconut

4 medium onions, peeled and chopped

5 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 large tomato

1 tsp ground turmeric

6 tbsp vegetable oil

5 whole cardamom pods

6 whole cloves

7 whole black peppercorns

2 bayleaves

1 cinnamon stick, 5cm long

2 small hot red peppers (optional)

1.6kg cubed lamb - shoulder, leg or, best of all, neck

1 tbsp plain yoghurt

2 tsp salt

1 tsp garam masala

Roast the coriander, cumin and coconut in a pan for a few minutes, until just darkened, then put to one side. Put the onions, garlic and ginger in a liquidiser, along with the tomato and turmeric, and blend to a paste.

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat four tablespoons of oil over medium flame. When it is hot, add the cardamom, cloves, peppercorns, bayleaves, cinnamon and red peppers, and stir. Add just enough meat to sit in one layer without crowding, and cook, turning, until it is a rich brown all over. Repeat with the rest of the meat.

Tip the browned lamb and cooked spices into another pot. Return the cooking pan to the hob, add the rest of the oil and add the paste. Stir as the liquid evaporates and the paste starts to stick to the bottom. Lower the heat and stir for five minutes longer, adding a little water as necessary.

Now add the roasted spices, and cook, stirring, for another five minutes, then stir in the yoghurt, taking care that it does not scorch. Return the meat to the pan, add salt and enough water to cover the lamb, and stir to scrape up any spice mix adhering to the bottom of the pot. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a quiet simmer. Cover, and leave to cook for an hour or so. Stir in the garam masala and cook for a further five minutes.

A few sliced green chillies, some chopped fresh coriander leaves, fried onion rings and a little ground cardamom seed are a traditional finish to the korma. Aloo gobi, rice and chapatis are great with this