Review: Peg's expands its Empire of the Egg -- deliciously

Oct. 13, 2010

At Peg's Glorified Ham 'n' Eggs in south Reno, a Sierra omelet is stuffed with spicy chicken and swiped with guacamole. South Reno is the third and newest restaurant in the Peg's family. / Johnathan L. Wright/RGJ

To the attractions of Peg's Glorified Ham 'n' Eggs. Specifically, to those of Peg's south Reno, the third and newest outpost in Peg's growing Empire of the Egg.

I'd visited the other two Peg's -- in downtown and in northwest Reno -- and even reviewed the downtown original back in 2003, one of my first reviews as the Reno Gazette-Journal's new food and drink writer.

I'd been satisfied at each, but my contrary side kept me from many return visits. From high-end to hole-in-the-wall, my natural skepticism engages itself when a restaurant receives near universal acclaim.

I'm dubious of sacred cows; they can't be that good, can they?

But Peg's south Reno won me over.

Food focus

My first visit isn't propitiously timed. Noon on a Sunday. What am I thinking? Peg's is packed. Stuffed. Awash in brunching hordes.

The young hostess, it turns out, knows how to time the house. She promises a table in 10 minutes; we're seated in five.

Peg's aqua and pinkish color scheme suggests a '50s diner without veering into kitsch. Travel images -- an erupting volcano, Lake Tahoe, a craggy arc of the Oregon coast -- haphazardly line one wall, a few askew. Cooks turn and burn in the open kitchen.

LuLou's, this ain't, but the atmosphere works -- and serves to focus attention on the main event: the food.

Beans (a smidge watery) and crisp, golden hash browns come along for the ride, as do hillocks of cabbage slaw and black bean and corn salsa. Whispers of cumin are in here somewhere, deepening the assemblage.

I can never resist eggs Benedict at brunch. Peg's serves eight versions, from traditional to my choice: chef George's Benedict built from thick chorizo patties and a coverlet of rich, smoky chipotle hollandaise.

No kitsch

I like this twist on convention. I also like Peg's honest, straightforward breakfast approach: eggs, skillets, pancakes and waffles, omelets and scrambles, all those Benedicts, and bagels-and-lox flourishes for a bit of New York.

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Unlike some breakfast places, Peg's doesn't offer twee slogans, cutesy omelet names, 'touching' anecdotes or other tidbits that combine to make the menu seem like an unwanted pep rally.

And thank goodness. Peg's doesn't need to do any of that.

Hustle and flow

The restaurant does more than breakfast, something I didn't realize before stopping by.

On a weekday lunch visit, Peg's is once again hopping. (Is it ever not busy?) I'm the first of my party to arrive. The hostess could easily have asked me to cool my heels until we'd all arrived, as many casual spots do, but she seats me in about a minute.

During my earlier breakfast visit, the waiter is almost impossibly attentive, given the number of tables he's covering.

At lunch, the waitress performs the same feat. And a second waiter, whom I flag down for Cholula to anoint my fish tacos, presents the hot sauce as he would fine wine.

"A bottle of my best," he says, smiling.

I laugh. Charming without being cheeky.

Because Peg's is so busy, its servers must read tables quickly. They must pitch in everywhere. They must be flexible. And they must practice hustle and flow -- without seeming harried. And with a smile.

Which they do.

Early eggs

I address my lunch tacos (cod). They're crisp-tender to start, but by the end, a side flurry of salsa, salad and slaw have combined to dampen the fish. I understand the generous intentions, the urge to blanket the plate, the love of color, but fewer greens would improve the tacos.

Chiles rellenos, on the other hand, produce no complaints. Instead of a classic, Puebla-style chile stuffed with cheese and fried in egg batter or masa, Peg's sends out the chile wrapped in actual fried egg, a bit like an omelet, but not quite.

The tweak is appropriate for a restaurant that made its reputation with eggs.

The other evening, I toy with idea of getting up early (as in 6:30 a.m. early) to catch the morning rush at Peg's south Reno. That doesn't happen, of course. Almost nothing save travel can induce me to rouse myself at that hellish hour.