You know, I think you might be under the impression that this thread is about damaged shoes, when the "shoe damage" in the thread title is referring to the money spent on new shoes. This thread is just to show off new shoe purchases.

Geez, that explains why there aren't any naked women in broken high heels. I thought this was a fetish thread …

They are breaking in much faster than I originally thought they would. They were pretty dag-gone stiff out of the box/off the last etc... First day wore for 30 minutes in the house with thin dress socks, second day 20-30 minutes in house again but with regular white ankle sports socks which were just a tad thicker, and third day I put them on again with thin dress socks for about 30-45 minutes at home again and by the time I took them off they were starting to conform to my foot. I'd guess after another couple home sessions they will be ready for the real world lol.

I searched the net for quite a long time and pondered purchasing from Parkman for about 6 months before finally having them made. There just isn't much info out there regarding their shoes so plan on writing my thoughts on the shoes when given the opportunity so some will have a better idea how good or bad the products are in my experience.

With that said here are my first complaints lol. The maker was a tad sloppy with the dye and got a tad on the under side of the tongue of one shoe and it appears to be two finger prints just above the welt on the inside of one shoe. The finger print looking spots aren't noticeable unless inspecting the shoes up close and in good light so figure it's just an overlooked mistake which can be fixed during polishing at some point. There is a tool mark on both shoes in the exact same spot on the inside edge right above the welt on the leather in the arch area of the foot right before the heel starts. One shoe the tool mark is barely visible and probably wouldn't have noticed it had the other shoe not had the same mark. The mark doesn't truly bother me but I would rather it not be there. The heels have a small seem where the leather meets the sole and can't say that I view that as a negative but some would rather it not be there and am sure some makers stretch the leather as to avoid it. This could be a sign of a newer maker or maybe that's how all of this model shoe is made by them. I cannot confirm either way and the seem looks good and is a tell tale sign of the shoe most likely being hand made since only very few machines can do this type of build.

I'm new to small shoe makers so not sure how badly some would rate these tiny details on a hand made to measure shoe in the $560 US range. My thinking is that whoever made this pair was rather new and will send pictures to Parkman to confirm if these faults are acceptable or not on shoes of higher quality and price before ordering any exotics. If they assure me that the exotics will be as close to flawless as possible (not considering hide matching as they should match as close as possible within a reasonable timeframe I would assume unless the customer wants to wait for perfect match) then I will order with confidence. I truly hope that these tiny flaws are not the norm from Parkman even though none of them are bad enough that it upset me in any way. The small tool mark is the only flaw that I most likely cannot fix and then again it could go away with time since it is just a mark from some sort of device that I would imagine puts pressure on the leather to stretch it. It's just an indentation in the shape of little triangles in a straight line about 1cm in height and 2-3mm wide from bases of triangles to tips of triangles. Will post a picture next time I get them out. Being that they were just on a last and made a week ago I would think there's a chance of the indentations to go away with time.

The only thing I'm concerned about is the soles since they are side handsewn soles without a normal welt. I hope I don't end up falling in love with these and not be able to resole them down the road. I would think Parkman can do it but hope it's not too much. I was just drawn to the unique look in pictures and like the look even more in person. I also hope to be able to put taps on them along with topy if resoles are outrageous. Will find out next time I contact Parkman and update this post.

What are those 5 nails for in the outsole?. Why is that heel lifting (heel spring?)?. It seems a real problem for me.

I think the nails are mostly a gimmick. They may help to prevent creaking but the outsoles are sewn and I can't think of a reason that anyone would want nails under the ball of the foot.

Again with toe and heel spring...for myself I don't think it is a particularly good thing esp. not that extreme. But I don't think it necessarily means that the shoes were seconds. Sometimes a shoe that is properly balanced will "open up and the heel will spring, given enough time and depending on the stiffness of the leather.

Additionally, I would not be surprised if these were an example of a shoe having a leather shank support. Meaning that there may have been no metal support for the intended and original structure of the shoe or outsole. The heel height is only a half inch or so.

Sometimes a shoe that is properly balanced will "open up and the heel will spring, given enough time and depending on the stiffness of the leather.

Don't forget, those shoes are 'new-old-stock' and were produced some thirty or more years ago and have been in their box all those years, presumably without shoe trees. Inevitably, the shoes will dry out, causing the leathers to tighten. This tightening will raise the periphery, never the centre (just like a slice of dried-out toast).

I'm minded to have a bet: once the shoes have been worn for a few weeks, all that raising of toe and heel will have disappeared as your weight and the well-fitting trees (which I presume you will use) will counteract the current tendency of heel and toe to stick in the air.

Don't forget, those shoes are 'new-old-stock' and were produced some thirty or more years ago and have been in their box all those years, presumably without shoe trees. Inevitably, the shoes will dry out, causing the leathers to tighten. This tightening will raise the periphery, never the centre (just like a slice of dried-out toast).

I'm minded to have a bet: once the shoes have been worn for a few weeks, all that raising of toe and heel will have disappeared as your weight and the well-fitting trees (which I presume you will use) will counteract the current tendency of heel and toe to stick in the air.

+1 Good explanation. And I suspect you're correct about the "corrective" effects of wearing them

( I edited my post to focus on the heel spring which is what I meant from the beginning but ...early morning.)

Severe toe and or heel spring is common in nos vintage shoes. See it all the ti, especially when the shoes were stored in a slightly humid environment ( which ironically usually helps prevent extreme over dryness and cracking in very old leather). In my experience, a couple of wears straightens them out and does correct it. This pair does have a steel shank. I have deconstructed several of this model