If you choose the Arduino path there is no firmware to install, it essentially writes machine code for the unit, and if you choose the LUA route the Adafruit one comes with it... If you want to go back to LUA from Arduino you must use a "re-flasher." You can use the NodeMCU Flasher; it has great documentation on the git hub, linked to, page.

If you choose the Arduino path there is no firmware to install, it essentially writes machine code for the unit, and if you choose the LUA route the Adafruit one comes with it... If you want to go back to LUA from Arduino you must use a "re-flasher." You can use the NodeMCU Flasher; it has great documentation on the git hub, linked to, page.

Sorry for the late response... hope I didn't ruin your display with my timing.So the transistor bank is for that kind of problem. The Pi can only sink so much current and each of the SSR sends current to the Pi when you turn it "ON" and the Pi is being over driven. So the idea is to add a layer of isolation/protection from the Pi. Another option, instead of transistors, would be opto gates or a shift register would be even better, though the code would need to be rewritten a bit, as it would take up only 3-4 pins to use it.In essence your pi is being shorted out when you try to turn too many of them on at once and so the operating system fails and all that fun stuff.

I'm so glad you figured it out. If you have any other questions just ask me.I do have to be honest. I recently had to re setup my RPi and I did not realize how tricky the Vixen part of this could be.Also some of my gpio pins are, I think, broken and that threw me for quite a loop. So i think an update is in order with a shift register instead of direct access to the gpio ports. This will also mediate the problem with the transistor nastiness. So be on the look out for that.I'm also working on something for the iot contest that is shaping up to be challenging and will also have relays, sensors, and the like.

yes the last image was AWB and the rest of them are other presets in the same lighting conditions. I tried captions but they didn't seem to work; in order the names of the balance preset is CTE, Daylight, Shade, Tungsten, AWB.

There is no magic in how it does this its in software of the camera. The software looks at the colors that each "pixel" of the sensor receives and then takes the average of them and makes that average equal some value described as mid-grey and adjusts all of the "pixels" so that the picture, when mixed together, equals mid-grey. Another, less mathy, way to describe it would be if the picture was made out of paint when we mix all of the paint together it would be a mid-grey color. So when you adjust the "White Balance" you are just adjusting what the value of mid-grey.

Ah put the sling around your neck and climb on up!The harder part was staying still enough to take the picture... that's film and its evening... meaning static ISO and low light forcing me to use slow shutter speed. HOLD ON FOR DEAR LIFE