These instructions are for '08 models...older model instructions can be found at Samsung registration website under FAQ on Why Screen is Blurry.

I tried to post a link to the website but since this is my 3rd post it would not let me.

To find Firmware version:
Press Menu> Press Setup > "Scroll" to SW Upgrade and Press Info...
You'll see a bunch of numbers and letters, the first 4 digit sequence w/a . and a 5th number is your firmware. ie: at this menu you'll see something like: Module - T - AMBAUSCH 1008.1 followed by more info.....but you can't miss the 1008 or whatever version you have.

I have a 750 manufactured in July that came w/1008 - I don't think I'll upgrade to 1009 at this point

Hey man, did you have the HDMI Level set to Low from the Normal on the TV? If your PS3 is to set at RGB Full Range + TV set at Low, then the black will be crushed. You only need to have the HDMI Level set to Low from the TV and PS3 Full Range to Limited.

I think I did have it and noticed nothing. I am now going to use what you've suggested and see what's what. Hopefully I can tell a difference for the better.

Thanks so much for your settings! They look fabulous, I did have one ? though.
It says on your settings that it should be set to " Warm -1 " Is that Warm 1 or -1? I don't see a -1, so I assumed it was Warm 1, but maybe that would be = to Cool 1?

I have the CNET settings setup for the "standard" mode that someone in the 650 calibration thread slightly adjusted and improved, and with your movie settings, I think I have the best of both worlds, and can jump between the two depending on what I'm watching! I freaking love this TV!!!!

I just did the user menu changes, didn't go into the service menu yet, but was curious if I did do the service menu changes, would that improve or more precisely calibrate the PQ?

Would everyone with FW 1009 (1009.1 I guess) please respond and answer the following questions:

1) Did you update to 1009 from a previous FW? If yes, from what version? If no, please see #5 below.

The earliest, 1004??? (Got my TV mid-may)

2). Did you notice any difference with your picture when you updated and put your old settings back in? If yes, what differences?

Yes. Hotter colors slight Pastelish hues to the colors.

3). Have you changed your settings to compensate for those differences, and are you happy that you got it back to where it was?

Yes and yes.

4). Please let us know what changes you had to do in order to get it back to where it was.

Reduced white balance red gain to 21. Reduced color to 45.

Using ZeroGs settings.

I updated due to the sound balance and woofer issue. If not for that issue I would have preffered to have not upgraded.

Glad to hear you got your PQ back. I was thinking about your situation today as I was driving along (I know, I know) and thought "pastelish colors, he must have dropped his color setting too far". Looks like you figured it out and raised it from 40 to 45.

Hi friends, I think it is better to turn on the so called "Super-White"

Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr Super-White (HDMI)

Adjust output settings for TVs that support Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr input signals. Super-white signal can be output when playing a DVD, Blu-ray Disc (BD), or AVCHD-format video. This setting is for use when the TV is connected to the PS3™ system using an HDMI cable.
Off Disable super-white output. On Enable super-white output. Hints

If image quality is reduced or the image does not look right when this option is set to [On], set to [Off].

When this function is set to [On], content from AVCHD-format video files recorded in x.v.Color / x.v.Colour can be played with a wide color scale.

x.v.Color / x.v.Colour is a trademark proposed by Sony as the name to be assigned to devices that support "xvYCC," which is an international standard for color space in moving images. An advantage of x.v.Color / x.v.Colour is that it can reproduce a wider color scale than the conventional standard.Hints

A TV that is compatible with x.v.Color (xvYCC) / x.v.Colour (xvYCC) must be connected via an HDMI cable

Content from an AVCHD-format video file recorded in x.v.Color / x.v.Colour is required to use this setting.

***A650/A750 both are x.v.Color Capable TV so now I have this on now.+BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)"Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr"

PS: PS3, for the play videos from the beginning question, I forgot to include that you are able to play from the beginning by pressing the triangle button on the Disc Icon you put in and then choose play from the beginning.

Would everyone with FW 1009 (1009.1 I guess) please respond and answer the following questions:

1) Did you update to 1009 from a previous FW? If yes, from what version? If no, please see #5 below.

52" 750 - from 1008
40" 750 - from 1004

Quote:

Originally Posted by studdad

2). Did you notice any difference with your picture when you updated and put your old settings back in? If yes, what differences?

No.

Quote:

Originally Posted by studdad

3). Have you changed your settings to compensate for those differences, and are you happy that you got it back to where it was?

No.

Quote:

Originally Posted by studdad

4). Please let us know what changes you had to do in order to get it back to where it was.

Nada

Quote:

Originally Posted by studdad

5). If you had 1009 to start with, please let us know what settings you are using.

NA

Quote:

Originally Posted by studdad

I think several of us are thinking about upgrading, but are concerned that some people have had some issues. If we work together, we can figure out what changes occured and fix them.

What issues? the only quirk I had briefly was upgrading my 40" to 1009. After the update, my set went a little weird and i couldnt turn it on/off via remote. After a hard power cycle at the wall outlet, it works fine since.

I can actually confirm the fact that FW 1009 on Zerog6's settings does leave some dark gray backgrounds, and not pure black. I'm wondering whether or not the backlight should be at 1 or 2 to compensate for that... His settings were based on FW 1007, as stated, so... What settings do you recommend with 1009?

I can actually confirm the fact that FW 1009 on Zerog6's settings does leave some dark gray backgrounds, and not pure black. I'm wondering whether or not the backlight should be at 1 or 2 to compensate for that... His settings were based on FW 1007, as stated, so... What settings do you recommend with 1009?

I can actually confirm the fact that FW 1009 on Zerog6's settings does leave some dark gray backgrounds, and not pure black. I'm wondering whether or not the backlight should be at 1 or 2 to compensate for that... His settings were based on FW 1007, as stated, so... What settings do you recommend with 1009?

If your black backgrounds look more gray (only in dark scenes) then it should be that the brightness is set to high. Brightness usually has the biggest effect on that

What issues? the only quirk I had briefly was upgrading my 40" to 1009. After the update, my set went a little weird and i couldnt turn it on/off via remote. After a hard power cycle at the wall outlet, it works fine since.

Good to hear. And since no one else has chimed in, and the person who had a few issues has fixed them with settings, I think we can consider this issue settled. You might get some slight differences, but can easily be fixed with User Settings.

Can someone post the white balance settings for the new firmware 1009.1

It got deleted with the database crash.

Im not sure of the members name but he posted the new settings in response the the improper settings with the new firmware.

Also, a few thoughts. I still remember him having warm-2 as a base when Zerog's was Warm-1. Maybe this attributes as to why there was more red. Also he was using a spyder calibrator....ummm was it accurate?

Lastly, why would samsung change the service menu values with a new firmware update to make the picture worse. From what I remember in past threads 65F series only a change in boards would change actual pic quality or the variances in the panels used not firmware updates that dont not address any of the settings. When going through the SM one case see (from 65F thread) that each panel has its default SM settings based on the panel manufacturer. At this point I feel Samsung is using the "First Build" panels which are Samsung panels historically. Later they move onto AUO panels and Chi MEI panels when the retail price decreases.

For some reason I dont believe that updating firware will rearrange SM settings to make a pic worse.

im pretty new to the site and i just recieved my tv about 2 weeks ago so things are a little new to me. does anybody have any optimum settings for jsut standard television watching? i see a lot for blue rays and things like that but what about just watching tv?

Hi guys, great stuff on the site. I was wondering if people were having similar issues with their playstation 3 connected to the samsung tv. Playing MLB the Show I definitly noticed a lag between the controller and the tv when trying to pitch and hit. The solution was Entertainment mode/game but it makes the audio terrible and you can't make adjustments to it. Please let me know if anyone has had similar experiences and what the solution was. thank you.

Hi guys, great stuff on the site. I was wondering if people were having similar issues with their playstation 3 connected to the samsung tv. Playing MLB the Show I definitly noticed a lag between the controller and the tv when trying to pitch and hit. The solution was Entertainment mode/game but it makes the audio terrible and you can't make adjustments to it. Please let me know if anyone has had similar experiences and what the solution was. thank you.

Try using the HDMI2 & renaming that input to PC.
That or an HDMI to VGA cable.

Can someone post the white balance settings for the new firmware 1009.1

It got deleted with the database crash.

Im not sure of the members name but he posted the new settings in response the the improper settings with the new firmware.

Also, a few thoughts. I still remember him having warm-2 as a base when Zerog's was Warm-1. Maybe this attributes as to why there was more red. Also he was using a spyder calibrator....ummm was it accurate?

I know zerog's settings were on warm-1. That was my initial mistake (I put it on warm-2), and therefore I didn't test them properly. Then I re-tested using warm-1, and the results were still way off.

The inaccuracy of Spyder2 is overstated: its accuracy drops only at low light levels, and that can be remedied to a large extent by telling the software to do multiple measurements and then average them (which is what I did). Also, people seem to forget that our eyes lose color rendition at low light levels, and are indeed much worse than Spyder2. So yes, I believe my results are very accurate for my set.

Which brings me to your next point: we don't know if the large differences in mine and zerog's settings are solely due to firmware. It's probably also the panel that is different. So, I post this hoping it may help someone who has a panel similar to mine.

I know zerog's settings were on warm-1. That was my initial mistake (I put it on warm-2), and therefore I didn't test them properly. Then I re-tested using warm-1, and the results were still way off.

The inaccuracy of Spyder2 is overstated: its accuracy drops only at low light levels, and that can be remedied to a large extent by telling the software to do multiple measurements and then average them (which is what I did). Also, people seem to forget that our eyes lose color rendition at low light levels, and are indeed much worse than Spyder2. So yes, I believe my results are very accurate for my set.

Which brings me to your next point: we don't know if the large differences in mine and zerog's settings are solely due to firmware. It's probably also the panel that is different. So, I post this hoping it may help someone who has a panel similar to mine.

There's always going to be a difference in calibrations settings for any TV. Even those of the same FW and same size will all have different calibrations settings. Some of course will look much better than others and even be pretty dead accurate on different sets, but more than likely not. That's why any settings that I or anyone else posts should be taken as simply a starting point, then adjusted further to whatever that specific TV needs to be set to.

I have to disagree on your take of the spyder-2's accuracy though. I found it to be very inaccurate when I was doing my calibrations. It's very bad at IRE levels below 30%, and for me it was also off across the entire range. The worst thing was that it was impossible to calibrate a correct gamma curve with the spyder-2. I found that I got better gamma results simply doing it by eye with regular test patterns than with the spyder-2.

They do say that the spyder-2's are hit or miss in terms of how accurate they can be, so hopefully you got one of the good ones and your calibrations are accurate. I'd still recommend that you try and get an eye-one if you get the chance to.

There's always going to be a difference in calibrations settings for any TV. Even those of the same FW and same size will all have different calibrations settings. Some of course will look much better than others and even be pretty dead accurate on different sets, but more than likely not. That's why any settings that I or anyone else posts should be taken as simply a starting point, then adjusted further to whatever that specific TV needs to be set to.

I have to disagree on your take of the spyder-2's accuracy though. I found it to be very inaccurate when I was doing my calibrations. It's very bad at IRE levels below 30%, and for me it was also off across the entire range. The worst thing was that it was impossible to calibrate a correct gamma curve with the spyder-2. I found that I got better gamma results simply doing it by eye with regular test patterns than with the spyder-2.

They do say that the spyder-2's are hit or miss in terms of how accurate they can be, so hopefully you got one of the good ones and your calibrations are accurate. I'd still recommend that you try and get an eye-one if you get the chance to.

zerog6's calibration still da best~

But since zerog6 dun have that device anymore otherwise he could have improved it more!

These instructions are for '08 models...older model instructions can be found at Samsung registration website under FAQ on Why Screen is Blurry.

I tried to post a link to the website but since this is my 3rd post it would not let me.

To find Firmware version:
Press Menu> Press Setup > "Scroll" to SW Upgrade and Press Info...
You'll see a bunch of numbers and letters, the first 4 digit sequence w/a . and a 5th number is your firmware. ie: at this menu you'll see something like: Module - T - AMBAUSCH 1008.1 followed by more info.....but you can't miss the 1008 or whatever version you have.

I have a 750 manufactured in July that came w/1008 - I don't think I'll upgrade to 1009 at this point

Curious - the one I just had installed from BB came with 1009.1 on it, will have to check the manufactuer date when I get home tonight

I know zerog's settings were on warm-1. That was my initial mistake (I put it on warm-2), and therefore I didn't test them properly. Then I re-tested using warm-1, and the results were still way off.

The inaccuracy of Spyder2 is overstated: its accuracy drops only at low light levels, and that can be remedied to a large extent by telling the software to do multiple measurements and then average them (which is what I did). Also, people seem to forget that our eyes lose color rendition at low light levels, and are indeed much worse than Spyder2. So yes, I believe my results are very accurate for my set.

Which brings me to your next point: we don't know if the large differences in mine and zerog's settings are solely due to firmware. It's probably also the panel that is different. So, I post this hoping it may help someone who has a panel similar to mine.

Samsung is known for having multiple panels in their sets. During the 65F series all who bought early were gifted with a geniune samsung panel that was 10 bit. Near the mid to end of production they switched all panels to AUO and Chi MEI (that were not 8bit) in order to keep up with falling prices at the retail level. The best way to know what panel you have is to go into the SM and look at the panel three letter code. They sometimes are listed when you check the firmware also.

What kind of contrast ratio are you guys seeing after calibration? I seem to remember seeing somewhere that after calibration, these 750s have something like a 2800:1 contrast ratio. However, after all my calibrations with HCFR and my Eye-one puck, I don't do any better then 1600. Is anyone else seeing this?

My contrast setting was originally set to 85. So I thought I'd change it to 97 and start over but that just required raising the brightness to get the 10 IRE gray to be 0.63% of the 100 IRE. That results in about 1300:1 CR again. I must be doing something wrong. What procedure did you use, zerog? Thanks.

What kind of contrast ratio are you guys seeing after calibration? I seem to remember seeing somewhere that after calibration, these 750s have something like a 2800:1 contrast ratio. However, after all my calibrations with HCFR and my Eye-one puck, I don't do any better then 1600. Is anyone else seeing this?

My contrast setting was originally set to 85. So I thought I'd change it to 97 and start over but that just required raising the brightness to get the 10 IRE gray to be 0.63% of the 100 IRE. That results in about 1300:1 CR again. I must be doing something wrong. What procedure did you use, zerog? Thanks.

What are the settings that you currently have?

I used the same calibration guides that are on here so you're doing things the right way. Try this to see how it works, turn the backlight down to 3, contrast at 100, gamma +3. Then go ahead and set the brightness for 10IRE at the .63-.65% of 100IRE. And make sure you have the energy saver turned off. Then measure the contrast ratio and see what you get.

Samsung is known for having multiple panels in their sets. During the 65F series all who bought early were gifted with a geniune samsung panel that was 10 bit. Near the mid to end of production they switched all panels to AUO and Chi MEI (that were not 8bit) in order to keep up with falling prices at the retail level. The best way to know what panel you have is to go into the SM and look at the panel three letter code. They sometimes are listed when you check the firmware also.

+Xbox360 Refence Level to "Standard" -> 丟給電視去處理 (Leave it for the TV to do the processing)
+PS3 RGB Range to "Limited" -> 丟給電視去處理 (Leave it for the TV to do the processing)
+PS3 Super-White to "On"
+BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI) "Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr"

I used the same calibration guides that are on here so you're doing things the right way. Try this to see how it works, turn the backlight down to 3, contrast at 100, gamma +3. Then go ahead and set the brightness for 10IRE at the .63-.65% of 100IRE. And make sure you have the energy saver turned off. Then measure the contrast ratio and see what you get.

I'll try recalibrating with a gamma of +3 today and see if that helps. It looks pretty good for the most part. I really like what calibrating has done to the color, very realistic. It just seems like the blacks could be blacker, but maybe I'm expecting too much from an LCD.

I'll try recalibrating with a gamma of +3 today and see if that helps. It looks pretty good for the most part. I really like what calibrating has done to the color, very realistic. It just seems like the blacks could be blacker, but maybe I'm expecting too much from an LCD.

OK, recalibrating at contrast 100 and .63% 100 IRE for the 10 IRE window upped my CR to 2000:1, but it also gutted the gamma dropping it to 2.06 from where I had it originally.

When you do your calibrations zerog, did you have Black adjust or Dynamic Contrast on? I currently have them off as well as energy saving.

PS: I used the Greyscale and Colour Calibration Guide for Dummies at http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 It seems to be mostly targeted at projectors so maybe I'm doing something that's a good idea for projectors but bad for LCDs? It instructs me to set the 100 IRE brightness with the Contrast control and then set the 10 IRE brightness with the Brightness command. Is that what others are doing?