Last week, I was invited to speak to Mr. Toru Kobayashi, RMK Makeup Artist, and to learn a little more about the RMK brand and the RMK Style of makeup. I love talking to makeup artists – there is a tip to learn from every single one of them, and Toru Kobayashi was no exception. Although he spoke only Japanese, an interpreter and his effort to get his message across to me helped tremendously. I took away some excellent Japanese makeup tips on applying makeup the Japanese way, and I think that sharing is a good thing! 😉

Japanese Makeup Tips: Base Makeup Is Very Important

I’ve noticed that the Japanese brands place a lot of emphasis on the base. They take great pains to ensure that the base makeup which includes primer, concealer, foundation and highlighter is done well to create a natural yet flawless look for the skin. A base done well, combined with well applied mascara and a light lip is good enough for a barely there style of makeup which the Japanese favour, Mr. Toru proclaimed. Although he uses RMK products, I’ll try to tell you about other products which might fit the bill approximately 🙂

Hide pores with a primer

Toru-san’s favourite product for creating the perfect base is the RMK Smoothing Polished base (photoshop in a tube!) It covers pores, creates a smooth base to work on and helps foundation last and last. He only applied it on selected areas – nose including the sides and on the cheeks.The smoothing effect is visible almost immediately hence it being photoshop in a tube. You could probably get a similar effect with a primer or tinted skin smoother of your choice. Clarins makes one but as luck would have, it I can’t find my sample! 😛

Apply concealer with a light touch and set with pressed powder

The next product was concealer which Toru-san told me must be applied in a very thin layer or you risk it looking cakey. For most of us, we’d try to use concealer liberally to conceal our dark circles or blemishes. Toru-san only applied a thin layer, blending it on the back of his hand before patting it on the skin and then used the pressed powder in the RMK Super Basic Concealer Pact to set it.

Tip: Blend concealer on the back of your hand and then tap it where you need it to avoid it going on too thick

I tried this using my own concealers, and then lightly setting it with a loose powder applied with a fluffy brush. The effect wasn’t quite as perfect, but it was close, and surprisingly, just a little bit of concealer did the trick!

Highlight parts of the face for a 3D effect

Toru-san used the RMK Control Colour N which looked like a white shimmery liquid, a bit like a liquid highlighter. He applied it around the eye area, tops of the cheeks, and beside my mouth, and a touch on the bridge of the nose. This draws attention to the eye area and gives the face a 3D effect. He then applied a very light pink shimmer powder to brighten the skin. I attempted this with a liquid illuminator and there is a similar effect albeit a little more subtle.

He also used the new RMK Pressed Powder N which is a pressed powder with corrective qualities in one. It brightens the complexion and the top colours can help with colour correction and for a skin brightening effect.

Use foundation sparingly and only where you need it

This tip was a bit new to me. When I apply liquid foundation, I just slap it on my whole face. Toru-san however, only used very little, and applied it to the bottom half of my cheeks near the jawline, forehead and the sides of my nose and face, avoiding the areas which he had previously used the concealer and highlighter. I asked why this was the case.

The answer is that you don’t need foundation on your whole face. Once you’ve got your base and concealer on, applying foundation on top of that would be too thick and it can look too unnatural. I found it most intriguing. I tried this with my own foundations and I have to say that Toru-san is right (of course he is!) When I’d got my base on, the foundation was just a “touch up” for areas that I had not used concealer on before. The overall effect is a much more natural “my skin but better” look. Try it for yourself and see 🙂 You might find you actually end up using a lot less product than previously! 😀

A light gold/cream shadow under the eyes erases tiredness

I must have looked tired when I went for my interview because the rims of my lower line were red. Toru-san used a light gold shimmer shadow to line my lower lash line. This would counteract the redness and help lift and brighten the eye area and prevent you looking tired. It was just a very very light wash of colour but it did the trick! I instantly looked less tired!

Japanese Makeup Tips: Proper curling of lashes and mascara opens up your eyes

I was surprised when Toru-san started the point makeup with mascara. For him, the RMK Style is all about a good base or foundation and properly curled lashes with mascara to draw attention to the eyes.

Proper way to curl lashes

I was a little surprised when Toru-san told me that I should not curl my lashes from the root. That throws every single eyelash curling lesson I’ve learned out the window! According to him, based on my eye shape and lashes (stick straight lashes that point downwards) if I curl from the root, the curve would be too steep and I’d get an unnatural kink to my lashes. I found myself agreeing because I do have that happen often.

He told me I should start curling my lashes only about midway and walk the curler to the ends. This would be more natural and when he did it, the curled lashes were beautiful! My lashes looked long and curled up and even without mascara, I noticed how wide-awake I looked.

Tip: When curling lashes do not only curl from the front. To get the lashes at the sides, turn your head when looking into the mirror and look to the left to ensure you get your outer lashes; and to the right to get your inner ones.

Most of us just squeeze our curlers and hope for the best, don’t we? This ensures we grab and curl all our lashes. The effect, when properly done, is stunning!

Do not over apply mascara on your lashes

When applying mascara, there is no need to apply too much. Apply the 1st layer then wait for it to dry. If you layer on your mascara while wet, your curled lashes will droop because its too heavy. Once your first layer dries, continue to your eye makeup and then come back and layer on another layer of mascara if you feel it necessary.

Mascara on top of dry mascara will hold the curl. Mascara on top of wet mascara will cause it to droop. Good tip this one!

Eyeliner is not for everyone

This tip caught me by surprise. At this time, I had my mascara on, and some light shimmery eye makeup and I expected eyeliner to be next. However, Toru-san told me that for me, I should not apply eyeliner. A first eh? Which makeup artist would tell you that?

The reason he told me, was because due to my eye shape, eyeliner would result in my lashes being hidden and diminishes the effect of my eyes as it would look too harsh. With properly curled lashes and once mascara is applied, I could already see some sort of definition to my eyes and to him that was sufficient. What I should do, is tightline – draw eyeliner UNDER my eyelids. This has a less harsh effect, yet emphasises the shape of the eye. If you have a single lid as I do, and shallow set eyes, try this tip – its a bit of a surprise, but it does give a very natural “my eyes/lashes but better” look.

I must say however that this tip is true if I were to focus on a lighter more natural style of makeup (which it so happens I’m gravitating towards now). If I were going to go dark on the eyes, I think having eyeliner on would be quite necessary for definition.

I hope you’ve found some of these tips useful. I most certainly had some food for thought, especially the tip about eyeliner and the bit about not using foundation all over your face as I have been doing all this while. I did find the makeup when completed, looked nice and very fresh. Very Japanese LOL! 😀

Close to, it was rather shimmery for the most part. The eyeshadow (Summer 2011 palette) in particular was a little shimmery and so were my cheeks, so I would probably tone it down for everyday. But otherwise I was happy with the look, especially how with just base makeup, he managed to draw attention to the eyes in such a subtle manner. Since this is a look I’m gravitating towards these days, it was most opportune to pick up these tips! 🙂

Here’s a quote I picked up from the RMK website

But above all, ‘with RMK, the first thing people will always notices is you, not your make-up,’ believes Rumiko. ‘I just want to make you feel comfortable with who you are.

I think this is one of the best makeup philosophies I’ve come across 🙂 I applied my makeup here following most of the tips Toru-san taught me, using my own products, and I must say that I liked the effect. Its not so noticeable in the photo but in real life, my eyes are more pronounced even with just a light wash of colour and without eyeliner, my lashes look much more prominent, and my base makeup looks lighter.

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About Paris B

Paris B is a 40-something beauty and skincare enthusiast with a practical and very critical view of beauty products and the world of beauty. Her mission on My Women Stuff is to deliver clear, honest reviews and facilitate discussions about beauty trends and life, tempered with a healthy dose of humour. Let the buyer's remorse be ours not yours! When not testing the newest skincare creams and lotions, or playing with makeup, find her testing her culinary skills in the kitchen at Chez PB. Read more about us here or leave a comment below or connect with us on social media at Instagram, Facebook and Twitter!

oh….i will try the concealer tip..i’m always worried that it looks too obvious since i’m still new to it…. though i have a similar eye style…i’m not sure if it’ll work on me..but i’ll try…tightline on the upper or lower eyelid? i’ve always had problems with lower eyelids -_- but thx for sharing all the tips!

If you are new to concealer, don’t apply it straight on your blemishes/undereye area. Apply it to the back of your hand, warm it up and then use the flat of your finger to dab on the skin then apply a light dusting of loose powder. It offers a sheerer finish 🙂 I tightline on the upper lid but Toru-san also told me to draw a light line on my lower waterline for definition but I’d do that only if I have applied some brightening powder on my lower lid area 🙂 And don’t worry, I have the same problem you do with lining lower lids. The trick is to draw a very light line, not something stark 🙂

thank you for posting this! definitely learned a good amount of overall less-is-more. im always paranoid about not putting enough, or not having enough color, but i think ill try out these tips next time 🙂 thanks!

I’m glad the tops help you 😀 I too tend to the “Where’s the colour?” school of thought, but I’ve been trying these techniques for a few days and I’m really happy with the outcome 😀 That said, you will have to like the Japanese style of makeup first too hehe…

Thanks Paris for this tips. I learned lotsa new tips from this especially the foundation and eyeliner. I didn’t know we don’t need to put foundation on whole face. But I have a doubt, what if the concealer color doesn’t match too well on our skin? Lol..(probably I need to get a new concealer than putting a foundation on it) The eyeliner was a great one. It’s quite true that you don’t need an eyeliner to define your lashes for I have the same eye shape as you. Gonna try that out soon. 🙂

Glad you picked up a trick or two! 😀 If concealer doesn’t match… its time to get a new one 😛 As for the liner trick, I am pleasantly surprised because now, I see my lashes when all I used to see was liner before! yay!

I actually find the transfer less when I tightline as opposed to regular lining. The only way I can think of is to use a waterproof liner. Sometimes when there is transfer when I tightline, it transfers onto my lower waterline which then looks like I lined my lower line, so I don’t fuss over it then.

Thanks Lyn. I used Toru-san’s tips and even managed to get Make Up For Ever Full Cover concealer on my eye area without it looking old and crepey! I usually avoid using this product on the under eye because its thick 🙂

heyya Paris! Thanx so much for this post and the fab tips. What Toru-san did was quite similar with the way Lisa Eldridge (http://www.youtube.com/user/lisaeldridgedotcom) did to cover up skin imperfections. I love Lisa’s and Toru-san’s tips and combine with your brake down of as to why doing this and that has made me more confident to try putting less foundation on and concentrating at building a good base on my face.
Anyways, I’m liking the looks on “Day 14 of 30” more and I can see that you do have lashes! 😛 😀

That’s awesome ! I have only recently been watching some of Lisa Eldridge’s videos and she has lots of good and useful tips. Its no wonder she’s so popular 😉 I’m glad all the tips have helped you and I must agree with you that since I learnt this, I’ve been working on laying down a better base before applying colour and it does make a lot of difference. And yay! You see lashes! 😀

This must have took you ages to organise your thoughts and write up! I must say I am so touched by your determination and your effort!

I always prefer to blend concealer with fingers, although most beauty bloggers I have seen would have a series of “must-have” concealer brushes…I personally find them pretty useless (a few sitting around) because it’s the temperature of the fingers and the blending which results in a sheer yet natural coverage.

Aww… thanks! It helps to spice up an otherwise boring “yet another review blog” 😛 I use fingers all the time for face products. I never perfected the art of using brushes and I find I use too much product when using brushes. For concealer, its fingers all the way for me because as you have noted, the heat from our fingers help the concealer blend better for a more natural finish 😀

oh, i learned a lot today! i always thought you have to put a generous amount of concealer to hide dark circles. That tip about foundation is also new to me, I always put foundation all over my face…..actually, all those tips are new to me! re: mascara, eyeliner….. thanks for sharing these tips PB! I will definitely try these…..btw, did you have a haircut? you look beautiful! i love your hair! 🙂 Toru-san did a nice job! thumbs up! 🙂

Thank you so much Issa! *blush* Yes I had a haircut about 2 weeks ago and my hairdresser cut it a little shorter than I expected but its now grown out a little and I’ve grown to love it too! I guess my hairdresser knew best hehe … 😀 I’m glad you found some of the tips useful. I knew we shouldn’t pile on the concealer… but I used to do it anyway. Now I know light layers work better and gives a more natural transparent finish 😀

Thanks Lisa. As for the eyeliner tip, Toru-san actually told me specifically I shouldn’t line so its not to say that everyone shouldn’t too 😉 Some eyes look better lined, some don’t and I’m only just learning that mine don’t… after all this while -_- The lip colour is the Spring Lip Crayon in Pink (01 I think) layered with a Spring Beige lipgloss. I loved the lip look too! Was so excited when I saw how it looked -_-

who would have thought of layering a pink crayon with a beige gloss??! ahhh…it’s lovely. I’ve watched a taiwanese variety program couple of months back and the makeup artist recommended lesser liner to give a more youthful and fresher look. The actress look so much fresher instantly. Think it might just be the technique i’m using that needs improvement and the amount of product to deposit on the eye area. I’m still experimenting and fine-tuning.

I know right? Who’d have thought it’d turn such a pretty peach shade?! Makeup Artists are amazing people LOL! Experimentation is the way to go! I’m learning all sorts of new things just playing around 😀

Yes, RMK definitely center around proper base makeup! I also heard that RMK has one of the best face/makeup primers? You got me interested in the RMK Smoothing Polished Base now, because covering the large pores around my nose is a big issue of mine!

Have you tried it yourself? If so, how do you like it? I’ve also heard very good things about the Shu Uemura Underbase Mousse, so kinda hard to decide, hehe…

You look absolutely stunning with the fresh and very youthful makeup! I like the make-over a lot! Oh, and about the ‘skipping eyeliner’ thing – I find myself only tightlining my upper lashline these days, since I do agree that this looks so much natural, yet defines my eyes enough for the daytime. 😉

I’ve heard loads of good things about RMK face primers or base too! They used a base all over initially. It was the regular base that’s like a lotion. Then the used the Smoothing Polished Base which is thicker. Clarins Smoothing base (or something similar) has a similar balm like texture. It was used only to cover pores. I only tried it the day they had the makeover, but I was contemplating getting it some day LOL! The Shu Uemura mousse is more like an all over face base. I find it a little drying.

I was quite pleasantly surprised to find myself liking the makeover too. I’ve never really had very good experiences with Japanese style makeup but this one gave mea lot of food for thought (and made me want things I shouldn’t want) LOL!

I have heard good things about the Clarins Smoothing Base (is it the one that comes in a little red pot that you are thinking of?). But I didn’t like it at all, since it felt too silicone-y which made my skin feel like suffocating.

I have already noted down to check out RMK’s base makeup this summer when I travel to Taiwan (hopefully!). 🙂

I only have a sample of the Clarins Smoothing Base which is the pink one in a pot as you pointed out. I think its breaking me out! Its chockfull of silicones but then so is the RMK one so I don’t know how the RMK one will fare in the long term. Do also check the RMK Makeup Base – that one feels light on the skin and held up the makeup for hours!

Hi paris!! This is one AWESOME post!!!!
Everysingle tip is so valuable and usefull!!!!
Thanks for sharing with us!

One request: could u show a small tutorial on how to do the thightlining?? My eye shape is almost the same with u but I don’t really know how to draw it..
It will be great help if u could snap a few photo for that…

Hi Gin! Thanks so much and I’m glad these tips were useful for you! 😀 I have previously done a picture tutorial on tightlining but I will do one again soon hopefully with better photos this time. Thanks for the suggestion!

Hey Gin I just looked back at my old post on how to tightline your eyes and I think the pics there are quite clear for now 😀 I’ll still do one soon and hopefully, this time I’ll be able to show how it looks with and without (however subtle it is)