Thailand, 1997

Wat Pho doorway

I made a quick trip to Thailand at the end of the year in 1997 at the invitation of Kampon Tansacha. I knew Kampon from his visits to Miami to collect seeds. He wanted another opinion on his palm collection and gardens before inviting the International Palm Society to Nong Nooch Botanical Garden. Poonsak Vatcharakorn, co-author of Cycads of Thailand, served as my guide, taking me from the airport to the garden, showing me a few wild Thai cycad populations and giving me a quick tour of Bangkok.

Poonsak at a fruit stand

irrawaddy dolphin at Oasis Sea World

wild Livistona saribus

Nong Nooch Botanical Garden

In 1997, the major area of the palm and cycad collections at Nong Nooch Botanical Garden was new. Boulders were used to create small hills between the walkways on a grand scale. Several plants each of hundreds of palm species were planted in these areas. Small, understory palms and specimen plants could be seen elsewhere in suitable sites throughout Nong Nooch. At that point, Kampon had the largest palm collection in the world and a very impressive cycad collection. The rest of the garden displayed many beautiful plants and Thai gardening style. While I hear very little of it in the United States, this is a world class garden.

More than a garden, Nong Nooch is a very popular tourist destination with elephant shows, cultural theater and other activities and events for visitors from around the world, primarily Asia. Nong Nooch had a horticulture school and was actively expanding it when I visited. A huge nursery served both the Garden and the Nong Nooch Landscape Company. In a country that is well-known for its gardening, Nong Nooch was an important center of horticulture. From my readings, it appears that it has continued to grow at a strong pace.

elephant show

Beccariophoenix madagascariensis

Pelagodoxa henryana

dwarf Areca catechu

clumping form of Wodyetia bifurcata

Hyophorbe hybrid

Cycas clivicola

nursery with handmade clay pots

Wat Pho

Wat Pho is a huge, walled Buddhist temple in Bangkok. It is a complex of dozens of buildings and sculptures that date back a few centuries to its origins as a school for traditional medicine.

On my last afternoon in Thailand, I was standing on the sidewalk opposite the entrance to Wat Pho trying to photograph the majesty of this huge complex that lay beyond the high wall. Poonsak was trying to convince the guards to let us in at closing time. A man approached me, asked if I spoke English and started a conversation. He asked me several questions in a manner that seemed unusually probing. I answered that I was leaving Thailand early the next morning and no, I did not know when I might return. He then leaned closer and, speaking softly, informed me that a door for believers was in the back. I thanked him, flattered that he considered me to be worthy of this information, walked across the street and surprised Poonsak with this new information.

I was greatly impressed by the people, the natural beauty and the culture of Thailand. The food alone is worth the trip.