From reading this thread it does seem that Trek does not know if a bike is sold as a pre order. They just send them to dealers that placed stock orders first whether it is for a sold bike or stock. It is disappointing to see people that have bought and paid for bikes seeing stock bikes just sitting on the showroom floor in other stores.
I have a 2012 replacement frame from a 2010 that seems to be holding up but my wife's 2012 has a crack in the lower chain stay just like my 2010 so I don't think the cracking problem has been fixed yet. Time will tell.

Re: 2013 Superfly 100 Elite SL eta ?

Originally Posted by dlennard

From reading this thread it does seem that Trek does not know if a bike is sold as a pre order. They just send them to dealers that placed stock orders first whether it is for a sold bike or stock. It is disappointing to see people that have bought and paid for bikes seeing stock bikes just sitting on the showroom floor in other stores.
I have a 2012 replacement frame from a 2010 that seems to be holding up but my wife's 2012 has a crack in the lower chain stay just like my 2010 so I don't think the cracking problem has been fixed yet. Time will tell.

2013 frames are quite different from 2012 frames. I am Hopeful. Yet hopefully not naive.

Got mine!

It is a XXL, the only size with a surplus in the world right now...be patient smaller sized fellows, this bike is sick! I switched the seat and the post to a Thomson, set it tubeless and went for a test ride. It's a rocket, hooks up extremely well and feels really balanced. I think I am going to leave the cockpit stock.

Real nice weather here today, sun is out, all the snow is gone, so couldn't resist and went for a quick ride despite my shoulder issues.

Wow, the SF feels really great out there. Rode the bike out of the box, only added a water bottle and my own saddle (fizik gobi). Love the stiffness of the wheels and frame, responsiveness in and out off corners was amazing. Still have to properly set up the bike, waiting on new tires and not yet used to the cockpit. Had a 54cm flat-bar with bar-ends on my old sugar and fuel.
But those are minor issues, can't wait to have a proper go on the bike once my shoulder is healed.

anyone have any good weight shaving options on their bike? I have replaced my seat tube with a carbon race XXX lite one and going to get some lighter industry nine torch wheels for it but curious where I can also cut some weight? Tubes are gone already.

Trek is going to ship first come, first serve to dealers that placed orders regardless if its sold or a stock bike. August was the the first time these were offered to preorder. So if the dealer was smart and thought they would sell a few, they ordered some. If your dealer doesn't stock that bike, or waited awhile to order for stock, then yeah its going to be longer....pretty sure thats how it works with everything in life. As for the chainstay....they are aluminum on the new model.

Originally Posted by dlennard

From reading this thread it does seem that Trek does not know if a bike is sold as a pre order. They just send them to dealers that placed stock orders first whether it is for a sold bike or stock. It is disappointing to see people that have bought and paid for bikes seeing stock bikes just sitting on the showroom floor in other stores.
I have a 2012 replacement frame from a 2010 that seems to be holding up but my wife's 2012 has a crack in the lower chain stay just like my 2010 so I don't think the cracking problem has been fixed yet. Time will tell.

Finally had a descent go on the bike, my shoulder felt OK, weather was nice so made the first serious ride on the bike.

What can I say, this bike is awesome. Every pedal stroke is transmitted to the wheels, the bike feels really responsive and efficient. Bike felt very confident on the descent and was eating the trails like no bike I ever rode. The suspension was very active, even uphill but never felt the need to switch to the CLIMB setting. I actually had the feeling the suspension was creating grip in stead of absorbing pedal power. Completely different feeling as I was used to on my Sugar and Fuel. To bad the Bontrager 29-1 tires were completely rubbish in the mud, still waiting on the rimstrips to instal the TLR Michelin Wildgripp'r 2.25 tires.
Also the XT disc brakes surprised me, the overal feeling is pretty good. The brakes felt pretty smooth and responsive.

So in short, I had a blast on the trails today, the bike absolutely matched my expectations.
I am not planning to many changes, only things I'm changing is to improve my position on the bike. I'm changing the stem (going for a 90mm) and handle bar, with a bit more rise.

Well, I had my first race this weekend on the new SF100. 50 miles of technical and rugged racing in southern utah (True Grit 50). The bike handled great. It responded well, didn't drag on the technical ascents (in propedal), and it provided just enough forgiveness to keep me relatively comfortable. I still have a little to do to dial in the suspension.

I did have one problem. The pivot bolt attaching the rear shock, came loose twice during the race. I torqued all bolts to spec when I got the bike a few weeks ago, but it looked like the threadlock (blue) was dry and of no use. Hopefully it is not a problem in the future, but something to keep an eye on.

It's definitely a full suspension racer. Thumbs up.

Here's the bike. An XL weighing in at 21 lbs 2 oz with pedals and cage. Roval control sl wheels, XX1 drivetrain, and a couple other changes.

I also have received my bike and could not be happier with it. 17.5 is 24.5 lbs totally stock with older xtr pedals installed. The bike rides excellently compared to my fuel ex 9.9. It rides just like a new bike should! Trimming the fat on this bike will be an expensive endeavour as nothing is too heavy out of the box, even the wheels(which have bladed spokes). Tires are not as listed on the website and are a 2.0 instead of 2.2. They are lite but twitchy. I have. Four rides since last Thursday(I ride a lot) all off road and the bike is smooth, fast, and quiet. I e ridden abp for years so I knew what to expect in that department but adding the big axles on both ends definitely made a difference in off camber stiffness.

JTHOPS please send a picture of the "nut" side of the bolt that loosened. My guess is it is the upper bolt. I'd like a close up of the "nut" seated in the frame. I have an idea as to why it loosened.

I have ridden oclv for seventeen years and this fit and finish is the best by far. I am unhappy that trek moved offshore especially for the top end mountain frame BUT the bike is amazing!! If there was a frame only option, the availability of the bike would be non existent not that it isn't already.

If you have a chance to ride one, you will not be disappointed, except by the wait to get one after you order

So long story short, coming from a high end fully kitted carbon fuel ex to this bike was a noticeable upgrade in technology and "feel"

I also have received my bike and could not be happier with it. 17.5 is 24.5 lbs totally stock with older xtr pedals installed. The bike rides excellently compared to my fuel ex 9.9. It rides just like a new bike should! Trimming the fat on this bike will be an expensive endeavour as nothing is too heavy out of the box, even the wheels(which have bladed spokes). Tires are not as listed on the website and are a 2.0 instead of 2.2. They are lite but twitchy. I have. Four rides since last Thursday(I ride a lot) all off road and the bike is smooth, fast, and quiet. I e ridden abp for years so I knew what to expect in that department but adding the big axles on both ends definitely made a difference in off camber stiffness.

JTHOPS please send a picture of the "nut" side of the bolt that loosened. My guess is it is the upper bolt. I'd like a close up of the "nut" seated in the frame. I have an idea as to why it loosened.

I have ridden oclv for seventeen years and this fit and finish is the best by far. I am unhappy that trek moved offshore especially for the top end mountain frame BUT the bike is amazing!! If there was a frame only option, the availability of the bike would be non existent not that it isn't already.

If you have a chance to ride one, you will not be disappointed, except by the wait to get one after you order

So long story short, coming from a high end fully kitted carbon fuel ex to this bike was a noticeable upgrade in technology and "feel"

Kudos Trek... Just work on your supply line logistics.

The bolt threads directly into the pivot. This is a picture of the link with the bolt missing. I would love to hear a logical reason for the bolt to unthread on its own. When I get home I'll get a pic of the threaded side of the pivot. Thanks.

That actually isnt the bolt I was thinking about so the theory I had is shot. The main reason that bolt would unthread is because when the shock compresses, it the link is making an arcing motion and can unthread a bolt either during compression or rebound. It think rebound for this bolt but dont quote me on it. It really depends where the friction is coming from.

Its a common occurrence on all full suspension bikes and therefore lock tite is needed. Most likely it was fine from the factory but when you tightened it you broke the bond. I tend to re lock tite anything after I move the threads, only for those things that require it. It will work better than relying on the old drier stuff. This will also keep away the creaks from these bolts since you would not want to use grease on these threads. Do not use anything but blue loc tite for the easiest future maintenance.

just remove the bolt first, clean the threads and refit with a fresh layer of loctite, blue 243 Medium Strength.
Just re-torquing a bolt often breaks the old loctite layer and has the opposite effect.

Slightly related question, for my old Sugar and Fuel I have a nice diagram which shows the complete suspension assembly. Complete with the corresponding torque settings for all bolts, correct loctite compound (on the fuel and Sugar one bolt was glued in with 638 compound) and all Trek parts numbers for bolts and bearings. Anyone have such a diagram for the Superfly?

Lost the reflectors and spoke protector, glued on a magnet and swapped cranks, also swapped saddle, stem and spacers/topcap. Threw on my chunky ATAC's and converted to tubeless. 26lb 10oz as pictured. Not nearly as light as the Elite out of the box but should be easy to take another 1.5lb off with a wheelset (I have nothing else with a rear through-axle .. for the moment).

Well, I had my first race this weekend on the new SF100. 50 miles of technical and rugged racing in southern utah (True Grit 50). The bike handled great. It responded well, didn't drag on the technical ascents (in propedal), and it provided just enough forgiveness to keep me relatively comfortable. I still have a little to do to dial in the suspension.

I did have one problem. The pivot bolt attaching the rear shock, came loose twice during the race. I torqued all bolts to spec when I got the bike a few weeks ago, but it looked like the threadlock (blue) was dry and of no use. Hopefully it is not a problem in the future, but something to keep an eye on.

It's definitely a full suspension racer. Thumbs up.

Here's the bike. An XL weighing in at 21 lbs 2 oz with pedals and cage. Roval control sl wheels, XX1 drivetrain, and a couple other changes.

My wait was about five and a half months and worth every second. I hope it was built perfectly and you are out on the trail right now (after you clean, wax and protect it). I have ridden mine everyday that it hasnt been too wet and have not been disappointed at all and I am anal as can be. Enjoy and welcome to the club!

I just use a high grade wax to stop stuff from sticking in the future. I use two layers of scotch 2228 moisture sealing electrical tape from the carbon armor to underneath the bottom bracket area and also anywhere the chain may go inside the front chainrings. Yes there is a metal plate there but I cover it all in TWO layers of tape so that if the chain ever comes off which it will, it will dig into the tape and not the carbon. Ive seen those plates rip right off. Those are my most important places to protect..Under BB and inside chainring area on down tube. Use as much or as little as you want. I use alot. I cut holes and slots in the tape for any cables and the drip hole on the bb. Some people also use Clear bra or other frame tapes to cover high wear areas like chain stays or higher up on the downtube than is protected from stock. I sent a picture but my bike is completely covered in dried mud right now and I have no intention of cleaning it anytime soon. The tape is very pliable and easy to shape and remove and a couple grams of protection goes a long way. You also want to protect any area wear the cables may rub as they will cut right into the carbon within a month or two without it. You can use lighter material for those areas.

Baltistyle, that's some good info. Speaking of cable rub, the new SL's barely have any problem areas. All of my cables come out of the internal cable route holes and clear away from the frame/headtube area. The only place where there may be rub is where the rear brake hose runs on the chainstay. The older Superfly's are awesome bikes but the engineering/design of these new SL's is more refined.

Baltistyle, that's some good info. Speaking of cable rub, the new SL's barely have any problem areas. All of my cables come out of the internal cable route holes and clear away from the frame/headtube area. The only place where there may be rub is where the rear brake hose runs on the chainstay. The older Superfly's are awesome bikes but the engineering/design of these new SL's is more refined.

That's definitely true, the routing is far and away better on this than the last generation -- and it is much better than it was on the Jet9 that the Superfly is replacing for me. Time will tell if I still feel that way when it comes time to replace the internally routed cables, but hoping for longer intervals given the sealed nature of the system.

Yes there is virtually no cable rub on the new bike, but I still protect it as a habit and also to prevent rub when leaning the bike on something or loading it in my car. With the front wheel off and laying sideways on the ground, the cables will scratch up the frame and since I often travel with my bike like that, the damage comes from transport, not design or riding. Also when bouncing around the trail, some rub does occasionally occur.

Anyway these bike are friggin awesome and I've ridden every dry day. I would with my old bike anyway, but the new bike induces newbikeitis.

You are going to have to call each local shop within Your driving distance or check the websites first and then call. Many of the websites have updated inventory by size....of course ordering from your local shop with a delay may allow some negotiating on price versus paying full retail to have it now IMO. However, I don't know the current back order wait period but I know there is probably no open stock.