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I could feel my stress melting away as I boarded the AA flight in Nashville at 9AM. I’d be gone for almost six blissful weeks in Kauai. DP would stay for 3 weeks—then my sister would join me—and we’d end the trip at the Kauai Music Festival (July 11 – 14).

We were scheduled to change planes in Dallas and Honolulu, and arrive in paradise (aka Kauai) after 11PM Nashville time. We’d have to pick up our rental car, stop at a market, and drive almost an hour to the condo in Princeville. Knowing we’d be exhausted, I’d booked a hotel room at the Kauai Beach Resort near the airport for that first night. I’ve stayed there many times for the Kauai Music Festival. I’d booked it through Hotwire as a “mystery,” but thanks to “better bidding” had been able to figure out that it would be the KBR.

The plan was to have a relaxing evening; wake early the next morning; enjoy a walk in the surf (with Sleeping Giant in the distance) and then go to Costco, Walmart, and Safeway before heading to the condo.

We landed in Dallas to learn that the flight to Honolulu had been seriously overbooked. They were looking for seven people to volunteer to be bumped—in exchange for a hotel for the night; dinner & breakfast vouchers—and a $500 travel voucher. I was the first to get in line. $1,000 worth of travel (for the two of us) was tempting—especially when I learned they could get us to Kauai the next day at 5:12PM. Ohh, but then I realized I’d lose the prepaid reservation at the Kauai Beach Resort.

When I hesitated, the gate agent upped the offer to $700 per person. She was desperate. For $1400 in transferable travel vouchers (good for one year) I could arrive one day later and lose the $139 I’d prepaid for the hotel. We had only carry-on luggage, so it was easy to make the switch. Those who had checked their luggage before opting to be bumped would have to do without their bags until they met up with them again in Hawaii.

A side note: DP and I take great pride in being consummate “carry-on-only travelers.” After having my luggage never show up in the Cayman Islands many years ago, I learned how little I really needed. Our crowning glory was our ten-year anniversary trip to Rome—followed by an 11-day Mediterranean cruise—with only carry-on.

This time, we both did carry-on and our bags included (22) books and (40) CDs for the music conference; two laptops; assorted electronics; five boxes of All-Bran (because I’d had trouble finding it last time—and when I finally found one box, it was more than double what I’d pay in Nashville); and assorted favorite teas. I’ve got a washer & dryer—and all I need is a bathing suit, a few T-shirts and a pair of shorts in paradise.

Ohh, back to the adventure …
It was a sweltering, humid 94 degrees in Dallas when we checked into the Hawthorne Suites near the airport. I had my laptop and a good book. My understanding is that Hotwire bookings are non-refundable, and not changeable. But I thought I’d give it a shot. The hotel reservation staff at the Kauai Beach Resort couldn’t have been nicer. They said they’d be glad to let me change my reservation to the following night—but it would have to go through Hotwire, since they’d made the booking. They asked me to have Hotwire call them--which I did. I assumed I’d get a resounding, flat “NO.” But was wonderfully surprised to have the booking easily and painlessly changed with no additional fee.

Then the rain started; torrential and violent enough to have all fights in and out of DFW grounded. So we were trapped in our pleasant little hotel room, smugly counting the $1400 we’d save on our upcoming trip to Europe.

We woke early and enjoyed a free, full, hot breakfast at the hotel. Then I had an “adventure.” After breakfast I had an hour before needing to catch the shuttle to the Dallas airport. It was barely drizzling and I decided to go for a 45-minute walk—my morning ritual. I made a right out of the hotel and walked for 20 minutes through a nondescript industrial area—then turned back. But nothing looked familiar. I’d have sworn I’d stayed on a sidewalk and made no turns—but now there was no sidewalk!

Had I been abducted by aliens? Fallen into the Twilight Zone? I never turned off the street—at least I don’t recall ever turning off the street—so I must just be forgetting the landmarks … My hotel must be right up ahead.

But my hotel was not up ahead. Luckily, I had told DP to turn on his cell phone before I left for my walk. (He never has it on.) The airport shuttle was scheduled to leave in ten minutes—and I have no idea where I am. There are no street signs or addresses anywhere. There’s a street up ahead – far up ahead – and I’m able to find an address. I look at my watch; now, we’ve missed the shuttle. AGGHHH!

DP calls a taxi. The taxi driver is new and can’t find the address I’ve provided. His GPS says that I’m 23 miles away. I have NOT walked 23 miles in less than an hour! Now it’s raining harder. Wait … is that a taxi? YES!!! Whew. $35 later we arrive at the airport and learn that our flight is 40 minutes late. (Of course, it had been listed as on-time when I’d checked before my walk.) But that’s fine. We have a three-hour layover in Honolulu, anyway—and we’re on our way to Hawaii!

Since we’d had a free breakfast at the hotel we used our breakfast vouchers to buy delicious sandwiches from Au Bon Pain to bring on board for lunch. The 8 hours to HNL were boring, but uneventful. I had already seen one of the movies—and had no interest in the other.

My car rental is an interesting story …
The last time I flew back from Kauai, a local couple sat beside me. We had a wonderful, long conversation, and I’d mentioned that I was spending almost four months a year there—and wished I could find a reasonable way to rent a car. They gave me the number of a Paradise Rentals—local agency that rented older cars—at much lower rates; sort of a local version of Rent-a-Wreck.

I booked a 2000 Ford Focus for a total of $780 (everything included) for 40 days—including airport pick up. That was $700 lower than the best rate I’d been able to find at Hotwire. DP drives a 2002 Focus—so that seemed fine to us. The only negative was that I’d have to pay cash—and wouldn’t have the backing of a “name” corporation if something went wrong. But the local I was renting from was a mechanic and said the car was in good shape—and that he’d replace it if anything went wrong. I had a bit of trepidation … but if I could save $700 each of the three times a year that I visit Kauai … I had to give it a shot.

The guy who rents the cars was on time to meet us and drove us to his office—a serious “man cave” – in Kapa’a where we filled out some paperwork. The car seemed fine and I was pleased and relieved, although it had a cassette player—and I’d brought along my fave CDs.

After a pleasant walk on the beach we slept like rocks at the Kauai Beach Resort. The next morning we had our favorite breakfasts at Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a. Their banana pancakes with macadamia nuts (for an extra $1.00) have seriously got to be the best thing I have ever tasted. DP gorged himself on a luau omelet—stuffed with pulled pork, spinach & cheese, with a side of steaming cornbread.

Spent over $300 on groceries at Costco and Walmart--stocking up on all the same boring foods I'd eat at home. They somehow taste better on the lanai overlooking the ocean Since we were only a few minutes away, and it was a beautiful, clear day, we stopped for a look at the Menehune fish pond. So beautiful—and so Kauai.

Then on to Princeville. We unloaded our bags at the condo: Sealodge H2—$125/nt (but I got a discounted monthly rate)—booked through Hestara. I’d stayed at this unit in January/February and chose it again, primarily for its exceptional breezes.

We had a nice long walk in the surf at Hanalei Bay. I was relieved to find that it was as incredibly beautiful as I’d remembered. The ocean was calm as a swimming pool—much to the disappointment of the surfers . Ate dinner on the patio of the condo as the sun set. Then sipped tea while watching through the palm trees as a cruise ship sailed by, lit up bright as a Christmas tree.

Now, it’s a perfect morning. The sun is bright and a gentle breeze, and the sound of the waves are a tranquilizer as I gaze out toward the Anini reef with the lighthouse in the distance. I’m writing from my lanai, and two beautiful nenes are expectantly perched beside me—hoping for breakfast. Speaking of breakfast …. it’s time to make mine, so that’s all until the next installment from paradise.

It's a picture-perfect day in paradise. Could the weather possibly be any better? Walked the path from Kealia Beach a couple of miles down to Donkey Beach. Glorious scenery. Stopped to watch a surfing competition back at Kealia. Unfortunately, for the surfers, the waves didn't give them much to work with but they did their best.

Nelsonian --
You are SO right! In NZ and OZ they weigh your carry-on bags. Even when I wear a vest with lots of pockets; cram things into my pockets; carry my book under my arm; and anything else I can think of -- there's no way I can do only carry-on down under. I think there are technically weight limits in the U.S. but they are never enforced--and the dimensions are quite generous.

Great details! I'm so glad you didn't wait until you got back to start your report. I can hardly believe your flight story! Will be at Sealodge in the fall so looking forward to hearing your adventures.

i am seriously drooling over your report as i so miss kauai. On our last vist DH was sick and cranky so it wasn't a great journey albeit the views sitting on the lanai helped. He got better the day before we left so I am anxiously awaiting our next trip in 2013. Thanks for filling a void

Tom--
walked past the Cliffs today and thought about you. Yes, always better to wash BEFORE the wax

Shar--
It's awful to be sick on vacation. So sorry. Glad to bring the vicarious bliss.

After my long morning walk I had a blissful, lazy Sunday, drinking Coconut Caramel Crunch coffee from the Kauai Coffee Company plantation (my addiction), while stretched out on the lanai, reading, and doing a bit of writing. There's so much stress & pressure: should I watch the sunset from the hill at Sealodge--or from the beach???

Coconut Carmel Crunch Coffee! Wow, that sounds delicious especially if it is a flavored coffee with no calories. My fav coffee is the peaberry coffee from Hanalei Roasting Company. We always stop there the day of arrival to pick up some beans.

When I was on the Big Island in January I bought the most delicious honey sticky bran muffins with macadamia nuts on top. Trying to perfect the recipe but if you see anything like that, let me know!

I'd be most interested to know where you have walked to from Sealodge. Did you walk to the St. Regis? I read on another report that you walked to Anini Beach. Can you walk there from Sealodge?

I know you are going to the music festival later this month, but have you found any place close to listen to some good music?

so songdoc. what is you do for a living that you get to spend so much time on Kauai. I don't think you are retired or r u? What is your favorite "Fancy"or "upscale" restaurant or do you go to them? How about your faorite all around restaurant and you go to every time you there. DH and i always stop for a burger at our favorite burger place as soon as we get our car and head for Poipu.......

@ Rhonda: Tahiti Nui, Hanalei Gourmet and Mediterranean Gourmet usually have live music many nights of the week. Their websites have the schedules. Keli'i Kaneali'i is a treasure and sometimes plays and sings at Nui on Fridays in the early evening. He was the Hawaiian half of the duo/group Hapa in its early days.

Yesterday was another perfect day. I sat with my laptop on the lanai and worked most of the day. Ended it with a sunset walk and swim at Hanalei Bay. The sunset was stunning and the ocean was perfect. Love Lumahai Beach, too. Hmm … maybe I’ll stop by later!

I’ll answer some questions …

What does Songdoc do for a living? Well … a few things. I’m an author and a songwriter. As the name implies I also do “surgery” on sick songs . That means that I get to travel the world to present workshops for songwriters—Ireland, Australia, England, New Zealand, Scandinavia, the Canadian Rockies—and of course … Hawaii. If I have my laptop I can work anywhere. I like my life!!!

It’s too far to walk to Anini Beach from Sealodge—although it’s not more than a 10-minute drive, but I often walk to the St. Regis. It’s a long walk and if I’m feeling lazy, I sometimes drive the first mile and park. I enjoy the walk on the path beside the Princeville golf course with those stunning mountains in the background. If I want to do a serious walk or hike I usually drive to a trailhead and park. But even walking on the parking lot at Sealodge is beautiful.

I laughed about the response to Smith’s Family luau. It’s not my thing, either. I was bored—but I know people who enjoyed it.

Re: Kauai Kookies—and restaurant recommendations …
Due to health issues I typically eat very boring, simple food; no sugar; no alcohol; low fat; no fish. Yes, life is still worth living . So I rarely eat in restaurants unless it’s for a business meeting. But I’ve enjoyed The Lighthouse Restaurant in Kilauea and Kauai Pasta (in Kapaa and Lihue), and Roy’s in Poipu. If I’m going to have a splurge in Kauai it will be Neide’s (in Hanalei) for a Brazilian panqueque or Scotty’s BBQ. And I LOVE Hamura’s Saimin.

For me, nothing beats sitting on the lanai, looking at that gorgeous view and eating my plain, old boring food .

So, no Kauai Kookies for me – but FYI, they are now sold everywhere—from Walmart to 6-packs of them at Costco. DP loves them.

Re: music … Tileaftilly gave some good suggestions. The hotels sometimes also have good music in their lounges. But most of my music will come from the festival. FYI, Hapa will be performing there this year, as well as Colbie Caillat (who is from Hawaii), and some other great performers.

Songdoc, I'm so green with envy! I'm at work right now and you're in Kauai, at the Sealodge on the North Shore...aaarrrggghhh!!! I'm so jealous but I'm happy for you!
I'll be living through you while reading your report and thinking about the next time I'll be there. I know it will be 2013 but I haven't set dates, yet...

Songdoc, what about the Slack Key concerts in Hanalei? I think it is Doug Mcmaster? I have heard some recommendations to do this and was just wanting your input...or input from anyone who has done this. I am trying to find a variety of activities as our group is pretty diverse. Thanks!

I haven't gone to any of those because I get to hear such amazing musicians at the music festival (July 11 - 14). So I can't comment.

Ronda -- thanks so much for sharing the info about the concert. There are signs up--but no details re: who is performing. It'll be slack key & ukelele and I plan to be there.

Today has been another day of perfect weather. In Nashville, I feel like a prisoner all summer long. I live in a beautiful, wooded setting with lots of wildlife -- but between the mosquitoes, chiggers, and hideous heat & humidity, I never go outside. If I spend ten minutes watering the plants, I come back soaked in sweat and covered with itchy bug bits.

In Kauai, unless I'm sleeping, I'm outside almost all the time--including right now. The breezes have been like natural, non-stop air conditioning--and I haven't had one bug bite since I arrived. Oh ... and I don't want to jinx it, but on the "rainy" North Shore we've had a total of seven minutes of rain (during waking hours) in five days.

Those who are coming for the first time ... I'm almost jealous. There's nothing like the first time .

Had some business in Kapa'a and stopped to admire Opeaka'a Falls. I was surprised at how much better it looked since my previous visits. They've trimmed back a lot of the foliage that had been obscuring the view--and there was heavier water flow than last year. Beautiful. Crossed the street to look at the views of the Wailua River and the ancient sacred area. There were lots of kayakers on the river. That's too much work for me .

After dinner on the lanai, drove to Pepelani Lane and strolled a little more than a mile (each way) on the path alongside the Princeville golf course. The backdrop of mountains was stunning. Watched the sunset on Bali Hai outside the St. Regis.

I haven't been able to find much on the Princeville Concert in the Park on the 17th other than there is one. Here is a review I found of last year'ss concert if that helps:

Last Sunday’s Concert in the Park drew a nice crowd enjoying a beautiful afternoon at the Prince Albert Park listening to a variety of local Hawaiian Bands, watching graceful Hula performances, and eating delicious food provided by the St. Regis Princeville Hotel as well as Federico’s Restaurant.

Yes, the slack key guitar concerts at the community are pretty low key but haven't been able to find much else on the North Shore. My husband does enjoy them and finds it very relaxing.

Kayaking hard work? You're not doin it right. That's why I always put my husband in the front - so he can't see I'm not paddling all that much.

Here’s the latest report from paradise. After the second cup of coffee on the lanai, we were ready for an early morning hike down to Sealodge Beach. It’s too shallow for really swimming and there’s lots of coral, so water shoes are probably advisable. But there were quite a few snorkelers and a few people were sitting in the water.

I love exploring the tidepools that form in the lava rocks—and Sealodge Beach has some of the best. There were beautiful views and we enjoyed perching on the rocks at the far end of the beach and watching the waves crash below. We were joined on the rocks by the sweetest, fuzzy little chickens. Love 'em.

Sealodge Beach is about a ten-minute walk from the condos—but the path is narrow and steep in some places. It can be slippery and you have to be careful not to trip on the tree roots. To access the beach you have to climb over some boulders. If you’re used to hiking, this is a breeze. If you’re not … um, er … you might want to skip this.

When I first came to Kauai I felt compelled to see every hidden, “secret” beach—regardless of how treacherous it was to get there. Now … older & wiser, (and having survived a potentially serious fall near the waterfall off the Kalalau Trail a few years ago) I no longer need to risk life and limb. There’s more than enough extraordinary beauty that is easily and safely accessed on Kauai.

Spent most of the day working on a project on my laptop while sitting on the lanai, occasionally visited by a pair of nenes and one of those stunning, red-headed cardinals. It’s amazing how much better I was able to work on this demanding project than I’d been when I felt stressed and pressured back in Nashville.

The trade winds were less active and at times it felt warmer than it’s been this past week. But I’m not complaining. The weather’s been perfect.

After dinner on the lanai, we did our evening walk in the surf at Hanalei Bay. No matter how many times I return there I keep being in awe of the beauty. Watched the sunset from the pier (but no green flash) and returned to the condo feeling so peaceful it was like a drug. If they bottled it—I’d be an addict .

I noticed at Hanalei Bay that the locals lounge south of the pier and the haole lounge on the northern sands.

Also noticed very young 12-14 year old Hawaiian girls wearing almost nothing in the way of bikini bottoms. They were with their families so I guess this is an accepted custom. Doesn't leave much to the imagination and the tops are equally small.

Susiedq --
I've noticed the same. I couldn't agree more about Lumahai Beach!!! I spent the day there today--and it was a perfect day.

The area where we perched was at the base of the first entrance. If you’re heading North from Hanalei it's about ½ mile past mile marker 4. It’s accessed by walking down a short semi-steep trail. (If my sister can walk down this trail, almost anyone can.)

In that area, near the huge black rocks, the water was perfect; smooth as glass; super clear, and almost turquoise. Walked the mile (each way) to the opposite end where the jade-colored stream meets the ocean. It was quite a workout as my feet were sinking into the sand as I trudged along. It called for yet another swim in that gorgeous water. The views from those rocks are stunning.

Lumahai has a reputation for being dangerous. The surf was indeed much rougher away from the area where I started, and common sense would tell anyone to stay out of the water. But the area where we were couldn’t have been any calmer—and it was pure heaven. I remembered why Lumahai is one of my top spots on Kauai.

Headed to the Thursday 4:30PM Farmer’s Market in Kilauea. Since we were early, made a stop to admire the view at the Kilauea Lighthouse. Then on to the Kong Lung Center to p/u fresh-baked bread at the Kilauea Bakery; then browsing at the shops and galleries. Seemed we had conversations with all the sales people. Everyone was so nice.

Then it was time for the Farmer’s Market. (They don’t begin selling until the bell rings at precisely 4:30PM.) There was a good selection of tempting fruits, vegs, herbs, and flowers. The farmers sell homegrown produce—most of it organic—and much of it picked that same day. FYI, it’s “cash only.”

We filled our sacks with beautiful pineapples, mangoes, papaya, green beans, avocado, cucumber, and more. Back at the condo we enjoyed huge salads while sitting on the lanai, feeling extra healthy –- and very fortunate .

Joined about a dozen people on the bluff at Sealodge as we celebrated the sunset and another beautiful day.

Making my mouth water - and forgot all about Kilauea Bakery. And always loke to stock up on fruit at the Farmer's markets or fruit stands.

And yes, parts of Lumahai can have some swell - so again - as always - trust the ole eyeballs - but agree with you that when it's calm - the water color is just amazing. These pic have some of that: http://tinyurl.com/6ng8qn8

There is also some snorkeling out by the rocks - but it's not the best snorkeling beach. Just perhaps the most beautiful.

Today, we hiked a trail we’d never tried before: the Nounou Mountain East Side Trail—best known for its views of Nounou Mountain, aka Sleeping Giant. The “Kauai Trails” book listed it as moderate difficulty, and 3-1/2 miles. They estimated it would take 1-3/4 hours. The trailhead is accessed from Haleilio St. in Wailua and the trail was well marked.

It was cloudy, hazy, and overcast most of the way up with only an occasional breeze and only a few glimpses of blue sky, but the rain the weatherman promised for the afternoon never did show up. He promised the return of the tradewinds—but apparently, they didn’t get the memo. The views alternated between Sleeping Giant (far in the distance) and Lihue. The views were “nice” but didn’t pack the “WOW” factor of some of the other Kauai trails I’ve done.

When we reached the picnic tables, which officially mark the end of this hike, DP suggested that we continue to the top. Several tourists who looked like they’d, um, er… been to a few too many luaus (if you know what I mean) were ambling down, and we figured, “if they could do it …”

Those last 15-20 minutes were STEEP—but the views were really worth it. This is where we found the “WOW.” Climbing down, we could hardly believe how high up we’d been. The total round trip took us 2:40 – with LOTS of stops for photos. We really enjoyed it, but either those hills are getting steeper—or we’re getting older

We’d really worked up an appetite and rewarded ourselves with lunch at Hamura’s Saimin. LOVE that place. We gorged on outrageously good BBQ chicken sticks (2 each) and steaming bowls of made-to-order saimin—wonton for me; “specialty” (which includes a bit everything except the shrimp) for DP. With a diet Coke: $24 total. Heaven!

The rest of the day wasn’t nearly as exciting. We shopped at Walmart, Costco, and Safeway before heading back in time for dinner on the lanai. We were glad that the tradewinds finally got the message. Bliss …

A side note: the orchids at Walmart are GORGEOUS—and ridiculously inexpensive. You ARE permitted to take orchids back to the mainland as long as they are not in soil—and have no potting medium hanging on. But alas, the only ones I lusted for were entirely too big to carry back on the plane. I’ve brought several back in the past and they have always passed the agricultural inspection.

I have a feeling that tomorrow my legs will want a beach—or ANYTHING but a hike!

EXPENSIVE!!!
If you go to the Garden Island Newspaper website you can see the prices at every gas station on the island--and choose the best. (That website's a great resource for local entertainment listings and local news, as well.)

At the moment, the lowest prices for regular (other than Costco) seem to be $4.65/gallon (in Lihue). I saw $4.78 in Kilauea. The highest is in Princeville @ $4.99/gallon. Yikes.

Costco was $4.09 yesterday for regular. You do need to be a Costco member to buy gas there. Considering the savings on gas -- and the enormous roast chickens for $4.99 (not to mention all the other savings) it might be worth joining if you're going to be in the area and filling up a couple of times. It would pay for itself.

There's another huge member benefit that I shared on another thread: they sell American Airline gift cards worth $300 -- for $269.99. You can combine them and they never expire. That's a $90 savings on a $1,000 airfare.

FYI, Costco is behind Kukio Grove mall in Lihue. I pass it anytime I'm en route to Waimea Canyon or anywhere on the South side. I think it's the best place on the island to buy souvenirs. Beautiful Hawaiian made Aloha shirts were $19.99; and great prices on local coffee; candies, cookies, etc ... Walmart's also great for this stuff--but not as cheap as Costco.

The latest installment:
It was another gorgeous, sunny day. The trade winds were back and the natural air conditioning was bliss. Laid on a chaise lounge on the Sealodge bluff and finished a wonderful memoir, “In the Sanctuary of Outcasts.” LOVED it.

The book deals in part with leprosy, so it was an odd coincidence when I picked up my “Kauai Trails” book and read about a sufferer of leprosy (Hansen’s disease) who, along with his family, escaped horrific treatment and banishment to Molokai by hiding for years, until his death, in the Kalalau Valley.

Did some writing then went to Tunnels (Makua) Beach late afternoon. I often have trouble finding the entrance, so this time I made some notes. About 1/3 miles past mile marker 8, turn at telephone pole #144 on the right where the sign says “Private Road.”

Tunnels epitomizes my fantasy of the South Pacific. With those jagged mountain peaks and vivid turquoise water it’s how I always imagined Hawaii would look. We took a long walk in the surf soaking up those views, and snapped some postcard-perfect photos along the way. Tunnels is renowned for its snorkeling, but the surf was too rough for the snorkelers today.

It started to cloud up around 5:30PM and there was about 20 minutes of intermittent liquid sunshine as I drove back to Princeville. After the storm, the sky glowed a rosy pink. Beautiful!

Yesterday I walked from the condo to the St. Regis Hotel (35-40 minutes at a relaxed pace – one-way). It was hazy & cloudy, but those views were still stunning. The St. Regis had a Father’s Day Brunch for a mere $79 per person. AGGHHH!!! Not sure if that included the $8.00 coffee. Rich or poor – it’s nice to have money . I opted for oatmeal and fresh fruit on my lanai – then enjoyed the views for free.

I found a pretty path through the woods behind the beach at the St. Regis. Walked about ten minutes and saw some incredible bamboo. I hoped I’d discovered a secret passage to Hanalei Bay, but when I reached the spot where the river meets the bay, it was the end of the line. But still, a beautiful walk.

The afternoon concert in the park at Princeville was low-key, peaceful, and pleasant. Luckily, it was cloudy and breezy—because there wasn’t a spot a shade to be found. It kept looking as if it was about to pour—but the rain never fell.

Mike Keale sang beautifully while his wife and one of their friends contributed lovely hula dancing. I love to watch when older women dance hula with so much grace and beauty. The second act was Lena Starsong—who did a good job with jazz standards. There were pupus for sale for $5.00, being prepared by chefs from the Westin & St. Regis. They looked (and smelled) great—but it wasn’t my feeding time.

The clouds began to pass as sunset approached. Today, there are wind advisories with gusts of 15 – 30 MPH expected and temps around 80. I’ll take this anytime compared to the sizzling heat back in Nashville and in so much of the nation.

We spent 9 nights at Pu'u Poa and had all intentions of having a meal or two and a few adult beverages at SR. We liked the pre renovation Princeville Hotel mo bettah. We never did make a return visit, but did enjoy a red cup picnic with others at sunset, on the green above/adjacent to the hotel, and then strolled back to grill a lovely dinner, or head down to Hanalei. It was much more festive then having tourists push and shove around you to take sunset pictures and spill your $20 cocktail onto your $20 pupu and your $200 linen capris.

I couldn't agree more. I think I'd choke on it -- even if it included coffee . With tax & tip that's well over $200 for a couple. How much can you eat?

FYI, it was "only" $60 for keikis (under 12). I can't imagine spending $60 for an 8 year old's breakfast. They'd probably go for the Cheerios over the crepes and prime rib. And there were plenty of families there with kids.

In case you haven't guessed -- I'm not a gourmet "foodie." But plenty of people pay that kind of money for dinners. To each his own.

On a side note ... I have worked with people who have tens of millions of dollars. I guess it's all relative, and there becomes a point where a few hundred dollars seems like nothing.

I was poor for many years. I'm grateful to have that no longer be the case. But it has left me "frugal" and appreciative of what I have.

Brunches offer way too much food and most American's cannot afford to eat that much if you get my drift. I NEVER go to brunches. Oatmeal with soy or Almond Milk, fresh fruit and good coffee on the lanai or in the kitchen is plenty for me. Loving your report, thanks for working us into your work schedule.

Songdoc - just loving your reports. We have hiked (well walked is more like it) - all around Princeville - and down to the beach about 3 or 4 different ways - but never did take that walk you describe down by the St. Regis.

And there used to be a Starbucks (or one just like it) in the St. Regis - and there coffee was reasonably priced - and we loved to take it out on the beautiful lanai overlooking Bali Hai.

I remember the gala dinner they used to put on at the Hotel being expensive - but hadn't heard about the "gold plated" type brakfast.

And I too have traveled with some deep pocket types - yet the "old money" can really be thrifty/frugal/smart/selective - while the noveau riche sometimes spend like drunken sailors on shore leave after a six month deployment.

We also had to look cafefully for the turn off to Tunnels - (we received some good advice from locals and did find it) - and parked there a couple of times, but usually parked down the road at the lots at Ke'e (Haena state park) and snorkeled there as well as making our way down the beachto Tunnels.

Tom -- I never knew that path behind the St. Regis beach existed until I accidentally found it yesterday. I've never head anyone mention it.

That coffee shop is still in the St. Regis. I think it's called the Hanalei Cafe. Coffee and those Bali Hai views sound like a perfect combination.

Today's adventure ...
I’m dealing with some serious computer trouble and had to drive to a repair shop in Lihue. (Don’t ask!!!) Since I was already on that side of the island we continued on to one of my favorite spots: Maha`ulepu Beach. I hadn’t mentioned that I swapped my rental car a few days after arriving because the a/c wasn’t working. The only other vehicle available was a Honda Passport—an SUV. Compared to the little compact cars I’m used to, it was like a tank. I thought I’d hate it. I love it—and asked to keep it for the remainder of my trip.

I bring this up because the dirt road (past the Grand Hyatt) to Maha’ulepa has been horrible in the past. In February I wound up parking my little rental car on the side of the road and walking the last ½ mile. The potholes were that bad. Wow. What a difference a 4-wheel drive tank makes on a rutted dirt road! But much of the road has been improved since my last visit. There are still some very bad parts, but it’s something you can probably do in any car – if you’re very careful.

Maha’ulepa doesn’t look even remotely like anything else on Kauai. I felt as if I’d found an alien planet. The cliffs and geological formations are spectacular and incredibly beautiful—in an otherworldly way. Sort of like natural sculpture. Today, the waves and wind were intense, which amplified the effect. We hiked along the cliffs, loving every minute – even when the waves reached up high enough to splash us.

I’ve gone swimming there in the past—but there’s no way I’d have attempted it today. The surf was way too rough. The past three days have been mostly overcast; no rain to speak of, but windy and mostly cloudy--not what you’d call nice beach days. I feel bad for the sun lovers who want to lie out by the pool or on the beach and bake, but I’ve enjoyed being cool--and we did have almost a whole week of sunny days.

Driving through the tree tunnel in Poipu, singing along with a favorite old Joni Mitchell album on the car stereo, I thought, “It can’t get any better than this.” Then as I drove through Anahola I felt as if I were driving into a painting. It really was that beautiful.

Dinner was fried coconut shrimp at the Shrimp Station in Wailua ($12 pp). Delicious! Now back to my boring, healthy eating.

I watched the sun pushing through the clouds while sipping my decaf back on the lanai. Ahh … heaven …

For the past 5 or 6 years my summer trips to Kauai have been timed to coincide with the Kauai Music Festival which is mid-July (July 11 - 14 this year). My love of Kauai is all the fault of that festival. I came here to teach and perform one time ... and I fell in love with the island. (FYI, the concerts are open to anyone and they're awesome.)

My additional trips to paradise are contingent on my other engagements. This year I spent 5 weeks in Jan/Feb; I'm currently in the midst of 6 weeks in the summer; and will be back for the month of October (in Sealodge J2). I'm hoping for January '13, but waiting to see if I can squeeze that in before another big trip in February.

This year I'll have to leave immediately after the festival to teach a Song Camp in Nashville. The following week I'll be in the Canadian Rockies! Talk about a contrast!!! I like my life .

Also, the Canadian Rockies are on my list. I've been to the Colorado Rockies the last 5 years. DH & I go to our favorite cabin in Estes Park once a year. I have a list of places I would love to see in the world but we haven't gotten enough momentum to pursue other adventures outside of Kauai and Colorado.

Aloha. I'm blown away that people are actually reading this! I love making people jealous. hehehe.

Not much exciting to report from yesterday—but I’ll do my best to keep you salivating. It was a rainy day—the first one in the twelve days since I arrived. I mostly dealt with computer repair issues. The interesting thing is that if I were in Nashville, these same issues would have turned me into a ball of solid tension and stress. In Kauai … they’re unimportant, minor annoyances that will get dealt with. That’s the effect this island has on me – and one of the main reasons for my addiction.

Around 3 PM a glimpse of sunlight poked through the clouds and we headed for a walk at Hanalei Bay. The beach was almost deserted, and the waterfalls in the distance were incredible. I’ve never seen them so large and powerful. From the beach we could see four waterfalls—and one of them was so large we could see the movement of the water gushing down.

As we walked, the sky was bright blue ahead of us; behind us—cloudy and ominous. We’d walked about 30 minutes before the rain began. We were soon drenched. The obvious solution was a swim. So refreshing. Once again “the Kauai Effect” took hold and I couldn’t have cared less about the rain. The mist on the mountains and the light on the ocean approximated an impressionist painting.

This morning we woke to bright sunshine—but it didn’t last long. It’s overcast and cloudy. But you’ll have to wait until tomorrow to hear how I spent today … especially since I haven’t decided yet .

The next installment will make you weep. I'll tell you about my upcoming travel schedule.

Of course we are reading Songdoc and I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for each installment!

Now you are going to keep me in suspense...so not fair. It's 4:05 in Austin, TX and I get off work at 5:30. I check every morning at 8:30 for your next installment...until then I'll be waiting impatiently! It's only 11:05am in Kauai, more jealousy that you have the whole day ahead of you on my island...okay, I'll share, our island

I love knowing that someone out there knows exactly how I feel about Kauai! For next year, my Kauai year, I'm considering 1) May 18-25; 2) May 25-June 1; 3) June 22-29.
Our 2011 trip we were there May 28-June 4. DH's bday is May 31 so we could go again during his birthday but still deciding. In a few months, probably around October I'm going to book our Sealodge B10!

Here's hoping for a bright sunny and dry trip in 2013! I'm waiting for you to make me weep Songdoc!

Re: the Canadian Rockies … for many years it’s been very high on my list, but I do so much wonderful work-related travel that I rarely just pick a location to vacation—unless I tie it in with teaching a workshop. So I could hardly believe my luck when I was invited to teach 15 minutes from Banff! We’ll stay an extra week to visit Jasper and Lake Louise, and to visit a dear friend’s sister, who insists on showing us her hometown of Calgary.

In addition to the Canadian Rockies, and October in Kauai, I’ll go from Kauai to work in San Francisco and L.A. – then Philadelphia and New York City (for the second time this year). In February/March ‘13, I’ll be working in Ireland and England. We’re deciding whether to add another European destination. If so, we might go early, but that would probably mean skipping Kauai in January.

May and June ’13 will bring us back to Australia and New Zealand. That’s a typical year for me. But last year we substituted Scandinavia for OZ and NZ.

In case you’re still not weeping and wailing … I actually get paid for this!!! Most of the time, I teach all day Saturday & Sunday – and we’re off Monday thru Friday to sightsee and get to the next city. Depending on the location, we sometimes add time for vacation before or after the tour.

I do LOVE my life. But you have no idea how many years of struggling it took to get there. There was a period when I lived in Los Angeles in one room – no kitchen; no bathroom. Cockroaches, mice, junkies, and hookers were my friends. When there was no money for food I ate cat food—repeatedly. My dream was to have enough money to eat at McDonald’s – but that was an entire week’s food budget.

Sixteen years after I moved to L.A. to become an “overnight sensation” all the hard work paid off.

Hi there Songdoc! I've been gone for a week as my Dad is here and I've been busy taking him to visit friends in Sac area and then to Yosemite. We had a lovely time in Yosemite but I couldn't wait to get back and catch up on your reports. WOW you been busy! Luvin it. You know we will be there in October as well so hope that we at least get to meet you all. I have my Kaui guidebook with map making notes all over it. It is going to say Songdoc was here here and here. lol

You will love the Canadian Rockies. So so beautiful. We brought hiking boots and were glad we did.

I'm luvin your success story but what I really want to know is what songs you have doctored and what kind of music. Nashville - I'm thinking country western??

Louistraveler - you are going to be there in October, too! We will be there the 13th to the 20th. So lookin forward to it but lots going on between now and then.

Ronda- As much as I wish I could I'm not going in October. I said I was going to book our Sealodge unit in October for our trip next year. I know it may be a tad early but I want to book that baby and make it official! DH & I go to Kauai every two years...2005, 2007, we had to skip 2009, 2011, so next trip is 2013.

P_M- Aloha to a fellow Austinite!

Songdoc- I'm weeping and I have no words other than, you've earned it and enjoy every minute of it!

Songdoc - I'm really enjoying your journal and am making copious notes for my trip to Kauai for 9 days in late Sept. This will be my first time back in over 25 years so the information is welcome. Keep those experiences coming!

Songdoc--we just got back! Spent the 6-16th there without a drop of rain. Couldn't believe it. Funny how those of us who keep returning to Kauai have the routine down. Meaning,
we also stayed in Kapa'a for a couple of days, went to Kountry Kitchen (and Ono Family Rest for the first time.) Then off to Costco and Safeway before the trek up to Princeville. Who knows I might have seen you walking..we stay on Pepelani Loop. I feel so good after having another great experience on Kauai..gotta love that island!
I always love reaing your updates, keep it up!
Gayle

I’ve had to finish some work and I’m falling behind on my reporting! Yesterday was a beautiful day. The blue found its way back to the skies—well, for most of the day.

For the third time this week had to drive to the computer repair place in Lihue. Grrr … (FYI, the computer’s now been shipped away for repair.)

Since we were on that side of the island we decided to hike the Kuilau Ridge trail. The trail begins just before crossing the stream at the Arboretum. I was a little nervous about driving through the water, but wanted to see the views from the Arboretum—and the toilet! The stream wasn’t more than maybe 6 inches deep, and no one else was having any trouble crossing it. The SUV had no problem. There were some very pleasant views, but the highlight was the striped trees. They were FANTASTIC – and I’ve never seen anything like them. The light colored bark on the trunks was literally striped with green, gold, and orange.

Crossed back to the trailhead to start the hike. Hot tip: instead of starting at the trailhead sign, start a few feet to the right -- at the barrier. This avoids a muddy, steep entrance and joins the trail not more than 20 yards ahead. The trail was a little muddy—and slippery at times, but do-able. The views made it more than worthwhile.

This is a favorite trail. The trail book listed it as “moderate” – and 4 miles. If it hadn’t been muddy it would have been on the “easy” side of moderate. Some of the views were breathtaking. It was so lush, it was almost hard to grasp the beauty—and I could hardly stop taking photos. FYI, DP loved this trail, too.

We joined several other hikers at the picnic table. (We’d packed our lunches.) What a place to eat! About ½ mile past the picnic tables the trail joins a different trail. That section offered some of the best views. It was getting too muddy and we turned back where the trail ended and joined the other one. According to the mile markers this was actually 3-1/2 miles RT – not the four listed in the book.

Did a Costco run and filled up the gas tank. Gas had dropped to $3.84/gallon for regular. On the way back, the timing was just right for the Kilauea “Sunshine” farmer’s market. The selection was even better than the previous week.

After dinner on the lanai, joined the dozen or so people on the knoll to watch a beautiful sunset. Later, the stars put on an exceptional show. It was another wonderful day in paradise.

PS. Gmac – We were almost neighbors. So glad you had such great weather. That’s so funny that we have the same arrival routine. I walked on your street several times. I was the one who bore a striking resemblance to a cross between Brad Pitt and Tom Cruise. HAHA.

Sorry to disappoint those who are following, but I actually had to work most of yesterday and today. So the only things I have to report are a beautiful walk and swim yesterday at Hanalei Bay; another beautiful sunset -- and a long walk at Anini Beach today.

Anini is very pretty but it's not ideal for walking because there are a lot of broken shards of coral on the beach. Beach shoes are almost mandatory in a few spots. Similarly, in many areas at Anini, I'd recommend water shoes to avoid stepping on rocks and coral.

But the views, with the lighthouse in the distance were beautiful, and the water was smooth as glass.

The smooth, clean sand (and ocean floor) at Hanalei make walking and swimming perfect -- so that remains my favorite beach for long walks. Lumahai is probably #1 for swimming. Oh, but I love those views at Tunnels and Ke'e ...

FYI, I read that the homes right on Anini Beach start at $7 million. AGGHHH.

LOL Sondoc. I remember years ago at Anini - when Sly - Sylvester - Rocky/Rambo - Stallone bought/built a house on Anini - and then started playing polo there. Think Bette Midler and maybe Kareem Abdul Jabbar also had houses there - or close.

And now they are 7 Mill you say? Ouch. Think I am more a candidate for renting. Did take a wind surfing lesson there once - and we also love to just visit Anini - and hang on the grassy area - and there is some snorkeling there. Not the greatest but if you work the reef - you can see some fish.

Keep up your great reports.

The only thing I would add is that some bloggers would like you to warn visitors that Lumahai beach can have some undertow - so people should check on local conditions before they go there, especially if they are not strong, experienced ocean swimmers.

Today, the weather was beautiful—but a little windy at times. It would have been perfect for hiking, but alas, it was mostly a work day.

Saw a pair of birds that looked like little puffins on the SeaLodge lawn. A quick look online revealed that were Java Sparrows. So pretty. FYI, I’m not seeing nearly the number of seabirds that I saw during the winter. In Jan/Feb (while watching the whales) I saw a constant stream of albatrosses and boobies. I was clearly on their flight path—and I loved it.

Ended the day with a wonderful sunset walk in the surf at Hanalei Bay. Two couples were having their wedding portraits taken, and the sunset put on a spectacular show. It was really exceptional, and the clouds above the Napali cliffs looked as if they were blazing. By the time we reached the parking lot there was a crescent moon shining. It felt like a perfect day.

Re: swimming at Lumahai … I think common sense has to prevail. Many beaches can have undertows. I don’t go in the water unless I see other people swimming safely. The part of Lumahai where I’ve typically found turquoise water as calm as a pool is at the first entrance (heading north). In the winter, even that area had enormous waves that no one with any sense would brave. But you can't see undertow from the surface. Whenever I’ve taken long walks away from that area, the water has always been obviously too rough for swimming.

FYI, Pierce Brosnan and Graham Nash (of Crosby, Stills & Nash) all have homes on the North Shore. I heard Will & Jada Smith were here vacationing--but that they'd sold their $20 million dollar North Shore estate. Damn! And I was going to make an offer .

Graham Nash's old house is the one right on Hanalei Bay to the very left of the Beach Pavilion. It is a lovely house. He sold it several years ago, but the new owners rented out the guest house at one time. Not sure if they still do.

@love my lab...Great to see you here again! Love your new name, although I could have taken it, We have a 10 yr. old chocolate on.

Songdoc, Julia Roberts has or had a home towards Haena too. I remember seeing from the ocean. Big and green tiled roof. I also know Todd Rundgren currently lives in Kilauea (Had a house on the Makai course) and Ben Stiller has a home on N. Shore, but heard he is not pleasant with the locals.

Songdoc, loving your live trip report! I went to school a million years ago at MTSU and lived in Nashville for a while.

@love mylab, will you be on Kauai in March for birthday??? We are going to the Big Island on March 2nd and then on to Kauai on March 9th-23rd. gmac, when are y'all going back?

I think all those stars love Kauai because people leave them alone and let them be people. I have heard that Julia Roberts is very kind and is a regular shopper at Costco! Once we saw Craig T. Nelson when we had dinner at The Princeville Hotel and no one was bothering him. I do have a photo somewhere that I took about 2 tables over!!

Songdoc-- Where have you been? I need my fix!!! I know, I know, if I were there I wouldn't want to spend my time updating us either. I would want to soak up every minute I could on that magical island

I've got some BIG news I want to share with you and all other Kauai addicts...drum roll...I'M GOING TO KAUAI IN 3 MONTHS!!! DH & I are going September 22-28, staying in the B10! I just can't wait to get back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I read somewhere that the celebrities like Kauai because they need to get away from the city of angels and regroup in rain and dark and bugs and to diet, because there is no good food in kauai and no night life, just roosters, and chickens, chickens and roosters. It's an important counterpoint of hell compared to heavenly life in Los Angeles.

I wanted to share the news because I wasn't planning to go back until 2013 and now I get to go in 3 months! I actually just booked tickets on US Airways...Austin to Phoenix then Phoenix to Lihue for $587 a person!!! That is just unheard of, I've never bought tickets that cheap to Hawaii! I've been looking at them all week and the price has stayed at a constant $806 then I look it up this morning and it is $587 so I bought them!!

Songdoc’s BACK!!! And so is his computer. I was hanging out with Julia Roberts. HA!!

Since my last post I feel like I saw more beauty than most people ever see in a lifetime. It started with what has become my almost-daily sunset walk and swim at Hanalei Bay.

It began raining lightly as DP and I began our walk … and then the rainbows started—many of them doubles. One stretched across the entire sky. It was a parade of rainbows and I don’t know how to begin to describe what I saw next.

It was as if an intense rainbow was being projected onto one of the mountains. I’ve never seen anything so beautiful. It was as if it was glowing from within. (No, I was not partaking of what my neighbors smoke every night!)

A couple was having their wedding photos taken – and the photographer quickly got them posed in front of the rainbow colored mountain. Talk about a good omen for a marriage! I took lots of photos, and was amazed that some of them actually do capture the essence of what we were so lucky to see. It was glorious!

Next day: Any day that begins with Kountry Kitchen pancakes—and ends with Hamura’s saimin has got to be a great day. But what was in between was just as good.

The weather report for Waimea Canyon Park was “Sunny.” We packed lunch into a cooler and headed for the canyon. I could hardly believe how blue the sky was when we arrived at the Canyon Lookout. Took lots of photos before continuing on to the Kalalau Lookout in Koke’e State Park.

We arrived at the Kalalau Lookout to find it raining lightly. The views were completely obscured. I assured some disgruntled tourists that it would probably pass in 10 minutes. It did. Ten minutes later it was no longer foggy and raining lightly. Now it was POURING.

It alternated between light rain and clouds—but the views didn’t clear. We leaned the seats back and rested for about thirty minutes in the parking lot. Headed up to the next lookout. It was no better. We drove back to the Kalalau Lookout.

What happened to “Sunny???” And then … the sun came out and the clouds passed, revealing what I believe could be the most beautiful view in the world. Suddenly the dull gray water below became a vivid turquoise beneath a bright blue sky; the whole scene framed by those spectacular, jagged cliffs. Spectacular!!!

We’d decided to forego our favorite hike: the Canyon Trail, assuming the trails would be slippery and muddy after all the rain. But luckily, I recognized a couple who I’d noticed the previous night at Hanalei Bay—and struck up a conversation. They had just returned from the Canyon Trail and swore that it was bone dry—and had not seen a drop of rain. They said something unintelligible about “microclimates” explaining why it had been pouring ten minutes away at the Kalalau Lookout—and not a drop on the trail. It seemed impossible, but we decided to give it a try.

Each time I’ve hiked that trail it has somehow managed to become even more spectacular than I remembered—and it happened again! The views were simply breathtaking -- and even more so beneath a sky that looked bluer than possible. The trail is listed as “moderate” and I found it the least demanding of the three “moderate” hikes I’ve done on this trip. The only challenging part was that a few spots were slippery going downhill because of the ground being dry and powdery.

This trail goes along the rim of the canyon and leads to Waipoo Falls. After some vistas that are guaranteed to take your breath away you reach a choice point. To the left you scramble over boulders to reach the falls. Almost everyone does this—because they want to see the falls. IMHO, the falls are okay, but no big deal—they’re not in the same league as Wailua Falls or Opeaka’a. They're maybe 10 feet high. It seems very few people continue on in the other direction past the falls. BIG MISTAKE!!!

OMG, those views. I can’t find the superlatives to describe it. Luckily, my camera captured it or I wouldn’t believe it. Without a doubt, that view – and the previous day’s rainbow-on-the-mountain – were the highlights of an amazing trip so far.

On the way back we stopped at the Kauai Coffee Company for some tastings, and to stock up on my decaf Coconut Carmel Crunch. The regular is available at many stores – but you have to go to the source for the decaf. The plantation is in a beautiful setting and I always enjoy the little self-guided tour and being reminded that coffee doesn’t grow on supermarket shelves. I don’t drink wine, but I love my coffee, so for me this is like a oenophile visiting a primo winery.

It was a long day; 157 miles round trip from Princeville. But worth every minute.

I took DP to the airport yesterday . (sniff, sniff) We reminded ourselves how very fortunate we are to actually want to be together—and miss each other when we’re apart—after eighteen years. As some of you know, he does not have Kauai fever. (Nobody's perfect.) But I seem to have made some progress. He said he really enjoyed his three weeks—and actually wanted to go to Hanalei Bay every night.

So there will likely be few adventures to report while I hunker down and do some writing on my lanai. Next week, my sister will arrive, so I want to get as much done as possible during my alone time.

Louise, we will be there Sept 2 thru Sept 9. The first half of the trip will be spent at the Mariott in Lihue and the second half at the Westin in Princeville. We couldn't decide which side of the island to stay so we are doing both. I am more excited about the north and DH is more eager for the south so this was our compromise.

We don't go to Hawaii often. This will be my 3rd trip and DH's second. It will be the first time in Kauai for both of us.

What a great report Sondoc. And I know what you mean about the microclimes in Kauai - as we have experienced similiar differences - although perhaps not a huge downpour - and then not a seeming drop on a trail only a short distance away.

The views/colors after a downpour are just vivid - enough to make Gaugin wish he were living there today.

Great pix!
It is not easy to get good shots of rainbows, with their existence being so fleeting, while trying to find the "right" backround, foreground, exposure, and framing it all, but you managed to capture both the rainbows, and the essence of Kauai.
Very nice job, and thanks!

Do you have an ipad or iphone? I have an ap that can turn photos into paintings in several different styles - Van Gogh, Monet, etc. I tried it with your first photo of the palm tree and rainbow in several different styles and would be happy to email them to you. Some didn't turn out well due to the fact that the rainbow is so thin but quite a fun ap. My address is: rronda at yahoo dot com

kanunu -- thanks for the nice comments about the rainbow pix. All I did was point and shoot. Kauai did the rest.

Not much exciting to report, as I’ve been working long hours writing on the lanai with only crested cardinals to keep me company. I know I shouldn’t have fed them, but they were so beautiful … Now, they regularly hop up on the table where I’m writing. I love it. When I add in my morning and sunset walks—that equals total bliss. The weather has been absolutely gorgeous.

Spent a few hours at Lumahai Beach this morning. I’ve never seen it so crowded. (Of course, that’s relative because it’s usually almost deserted.) Maybe because of the 4th of July weekend? I know, I know … the undertow; the danger … and of course people should always exercise common sense and caution when dealing with the ocean. But that said, once again, it was calm as a pool. It was partly cloudy when I arrived—and when the sun broke through, the water was the most gorgeous blue/green. I had a wonderfully refreshing swim, and then it was back to the grindstone.

Last night’s after-dinner walk took me to the St. Regis to watch the sunset. Beautiful. Tonight, I wandered to the Westin. There were some beautiful views as the sun set over the ocean and the clouds above the lighthouse glowed pink and orange. Just wait till I post my pictures!

The breeze is heavenly and I’m feeling very, very fortunate. Now I’d better clean the condo because my sister’s arriving tomorrow!

Not much to report. Yesterday was wonderful. Took my sister to Lumahai Beach. How can water possibly be that color? It doesn't look like that anywhere else that I've seen on the island. There were cloudy periods, and it sprinkled a couple of times, but we moved our chairs under the canopy of trees, and that made a perfect natural umbrella. Once again, the water was calm--no undertow.

Today alternated between cloudy and rainy, foggy and rainy, windy and rainy, and just plain rainy. We kept expecting the weather to clear but it never did. So it was a relaxing day of writing, reading, and napping. My sister and I took a nice walk in Princeville late afternoon, despite a few sprinkles.

I used to get a banana cream pie with macadamia nut crust at Polynesian Cafe that I loved. Polynesian Cafe is now closed so keep your eye out for my pie! I am wondering if a grocery store might have a frozen Mac crust. I also love sticky Mac nut bran muffins but I got those on Kona.

of course, if you find this pie you must try a slice from each place and tell me which is the best! I am wondering of the bakery in Hanalei shopping center might have it.

Well, you probably won't be going in a bakery then but if you do see it on a menu somewhere, let me know. If we ever eat sweets, we split!

Our favorite fish is opah or moon fiish. Found the best price at supermarket in Princeville believe it or not. My husband serves it with a mango pineapple salsa - mango (one or both), pineapple, lime juice, chopped cilantro and he likes chopped shallots, garlic, and hot pepper flakes. Serve with rice. And we like to toast chopped mac nuts and sprinkle them on top of the fish so you get "mac crusted fish" without the oil from frying.

We like to grill fish. I understand there is a grill by the Sealodge pool. Have you used it? I had the idea that we could buy a small grill but would probably still have to use it by the pool and not on the balcony or grass???

Aloha. Since my last check-in I haven’t done anything “new and exciting” but I’ve been having an utterly blissful time. DS loved Hanalei Bay and the walking path from Kealia Beach. I learned that the path is actually called “Ke Ala Hele Makalae” which is Hawaiian for "The Path that Goes by the Coast." Hmmm ... Can’t argue with that name .

Wait … maybe this is something new and exciting!!! At the end of the paved path I found a little dirt trail down to a beautiful beach. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect and the sun was just right for picture perfect photos (which I will be posting very soon).

Saturday Hanalei Farmer’s Market was fun. DS bought souvenirs and we got some beautiful produce. Last night’s dinner on the lanai was exceptional.

DS decided that Hanalei Bay is her favorite place. Good taste runs in the family.

I’m feeling about as peaceful and fortunate as you can get. In case you haven’t guessed … I love it here!

Ronda --
You and I would not make good dinner companions . Not only do I not eat things with sugar, but I don't eat fish (other than tuna and shrimp). I haven't personally used the grill at Sealodge but I've seen lots of people using it and it looks fine. FYI, it's not really near the pool. It's in a separate little area on the other side of the parking lot and there's room for people to gather and eat there.

Songdoc, you say you haven't done anything new and exciting, but your boring days in Kauai are better than my exciting days at home. I would enjoy a meal of cardboard on your lanai, just for the sake of being in Kauai. I wish you were still going to be there in September when the P_M's are going.

I've had a couple of writing deadlines and have been working very hard during the evenings and early mornings so that I could have time to relax with my sister.

Just back from a gorgeous few hours at Ke'e Beach. The miracle is that I got a great parking space!!! There was a monk seal sunning at the water's edge. Ohh ... those views of the Napali cliffs!!! GORGEOUS.

The first time I went, I never saw them! I parked myself near the lifeguard stand and didn't realize that if I'd walked for 2 minutes, the view would be breathtaking!

Ronda --
a couple of people had problems with the link but most people I sent it to had no problem. When I get caught up I might try tinyurl.

I loved the "kitty." The sweetest little kitten sat beside me at Ke'e. I'm a total mush for animals this little one was gorgeous, with enormous emerald eyes. He (or she) was so hungry that he overcame his fear to tap at my hand with his paw and beg for more food. Yes, I shared my lunch. That was his payment for letting me take his picture. Kauai has a problem with feral cats. There's a rescue organization that traps them to spay and neuter -- and sets out food for them.

I'll be back Oct. 3 - 31 and can hardly wait.

Tomorrow, I'll check out of the condo (sniff, sniff) and my sister and I will head to the Kauai Beach Resort where it'll be work, work, work. I'll have very little time off until Saturday--and then will be cast out of paradise on Sunday .

Aloha –
It’s been work, work, work since my last report. I’m now at the Kauai Beach Resort for the Kauai Music Festival and things are going great.

Breakfasts at the hotel buffet have been excellent, and the service has been exceptional. Other meals have been at the Shrimp Station and of course, Hamura’s Saimin. Picked up huge, custom-made sandwiches at Foodland for a quick picnic at the beach between work commitments.

Before checking in to the hotel we drove out to the Kauai Coffee Company. The little self-guided tour is no big deal, but the gift shop is awesome (and you can find 15% off coupons in the yellow-covered “Coupon Book” at Walmart and lots of kiosks). They’re offering free guided tours at 10 & 3 – and we got a private tour because of me being a V.I.P. Well, um, er … maybe it was because no one else showed up! But I deserve a private tour for all the Coconut Caramel Crunch coffee I drink.

The tour was REALLY interesting and informative—and it’s a beautiful setting. Who knew that coffee doesn’t grow on supermarket shelves. We really enjoyed it, then stocked up on our fave varieties and T-shirts, and tasted enough varieties to keep me buzzing for days.

My sister and I have managed to go for some nice after-dinner sunset walks on my favorite path that runs past Kealia Beach and I’ll hopefully squeeze a glimpse of ocean and a quick stroll between breakfast and teaching my first class this morning.

Back to work … Gotta go be brilliant ☺.

PS. Thanks for the warning re: the kitties. I've never had one willing to get anywhere near me before.

Songdoc, in the little grocery store in our nearby village (population 500), I noticed a few weeks back that they actually had Kauai Coffee Company products for sale.....here, in Nowheresville, Canada!
I had actually picked up some Kauai Coffee Co. product when we were in Maui/Oahu this past March. Noting your addiction to Coconut Caramel Crunch, I checked out our store, and sure enough, they had some! So, I got a pack (about the same price here as in Hawaii), and it was very good, but I have only had it twice, so am not yet addicted..... but I'm working on it.
Thanks for the tip, and the entertaining Trip Report!

Songdoc, what you you think of the Kauai Beach Club? We considered staying there but we couldn't get past the fact that it doesn't have a swimmable beach and it's a little isolated from restaurants outside the hotel. I'm anxious to hear what you like about it.

kananu --
Incredible that you found my addiction in your local store! I'm guessing that means they're doing widespread distribution. That's awesome. FYI, my next stop (the 31st) is the Canadian Rockies.

P_M --
The Kauai Beach Resort is fine for a semi-budget option. (I think it's around $150/nt) -- but it would not be among my choices of a place to stay unless I were attending the conference.

The pluses: the location is sort of mid-way between North Shore and South/West sides -- and 5 minutes from the airport. Free Internet (WiFi) in the lobby. Wonderful staff. The ocean view rooms have pretty views. There's a pretty walking path at the beach. Nice pool area with spa that I'm about to go soak in (although it's nothing like the OMG pools at the Grand Hyatt). Good breakfast buffet. Easy access to Lihue and Kapa'a restaurants and attractions. Shutters Lounge has nice evening entertainment ...

Negatives:

No restaurants other than in the hotel unless you drive ten minutes. No swimmable beach (although you could actually have gone for a dip today because the water was so calm). As you said -- isolated location. Very slow Internet (WiFi) in the room -- although you can pay a daily fee and hook up to an Ethernet cable.

Really, it's fine. Just not "WOW."

I finished working this morning. Yippee. The conference was fantastic--but I work very hard. (I know you all really pity me!)

Picked up tasty paninis and killer garlic edamame at Foodland in Kapa'a, and ate on a bench overlooking the ocean at Lydgate. The sandwiches were huge -- and the chickens appreciated the leftovers. The waves were such a beautiful green. Took a nice walk on the path and then a nap. Now, a dip in the pool and spa before my final trip to Hamura's Saimin (and Walmart for my sister to p/u souvenirs).

Tonight will be the closing show of the music festival with Hapa, Paula Fuga, John Cruz, Charles Brotman, and some other fantastic Hawaiian artists. It's always awesome.

Tomorrow, I'll be cast out of paradise. I don't know how I could bear it if I didn't know I'll be back in ten weeks ...

I didn't see the article in the Garden Island News. But a couple of years ago I was on the front page. That was a surprise when I picked up a newspaper at Foodland!

The closing show was outrageously good. Due to an injury, Hapa canceled, but the other artists more than took up the slack. GENIUS ukelele virtuoso Aldrine Guerrero brough down the house. Jake better watch out!

Thanks for asking. I'm LOATHING the heat in Nashville. The heat index is 105 degrees -- and it will be getting worse this week. AGGHH. I've been having horrid sinus trouble since the minute I stepped off the plane, and am yearning for Kauai ;-(.

I'm doing my best not to whimper, but I feel like I'm under house arrest because it's simply too hot to safely be outside. But I am VERY grateful for air conditioning. I can't imagine how anyone lived in the South before the advent of a/c.

I'm counting the minutes until October 2nd. I'll leave in the evening; stay overnight at an airport hotel in SJC; and arrive in paradise October 3rd, 11:25AM.

But first ... next week: the Canadian Rockies. I'll have a day in Calgary, then teach very long hours for three days. My reward will be six COOL days to explore Banff & Jasper. Really looking forward to it.

I'm still deciding on whether it'll be too exhausting to return to Kauai in January/February -- and leave for Europe only a few days after returning. But if I don't, it could be next summer before I get to return. The airline is tempting me; a flight opened today that's available with FF miles!

OMG songdoc your pics are awesome. I too love to take pictures and have oodles from Kauai. I make note cards with them and give them as gifts. You have a great eye. I think my favorite was Hanalei with the red sail boat - really popped! thanks for sharing and making me cry inside cause I'm not there. BUT I will be there in 2013 September or October, depending on DH work schedule. can I hold out until then?????????

Songdoc, you are I are kindred spirits. DH and I are also leaving home in the evening to spend a night at LAX, then flying early the next morning, arriving in Kauai at 11:45am. We could have avoided the overnight layover but that would mean arriving at 8pm in Kauai and it would stink to miss that day.

I also hate the heat in my neck of the woods but believe it or not, TX is currently cooler than TN and much of the US, for the moment anyway. At least you are going to Banff and Jasper soon so please breathe some of that cool Canadian air for me. We loved Banff, I hope you will post pics.

P_M: If you find yourself traveling to Kauai again someday, look into the US Airways flight. Austin to Phoenix then Phoenix to Lihue. The flight leaves Austin at 8:30am and your are in Kauai by 2:00pm.

Songdoc,
It slipped my mind that you are going to the Canadian Rockies. If you don't mind, you must do a trip report, please! The Canadian Rockies are on my list. If I ever get to that list because I keep going back to Kauai

I say to the Jan/Feb trip...go for it! I'm actually planning a similar situation that I've never done. Before I knew I could actually make a trip to Kauai happen in three months time, I had our favorite cabin in Estes Park booked for Aug 30-Sept 3. Everything worked out for us to go to Kauai. Most would think that would be enough for me and trust me it is but I still didn't want to give up my cabin weekend. I rescheduled it for Oct 4-8 which is the weekend after we get back from Kauai! Am I crazy Songdoc?

Thanks SO much for the nice comments about the pix. My secret: take 1,000 pix -- and only share 50 or 60 .

I've been using a $79 Kodak and the 5X zoom has gotten blurry. Tomorrow, I'm splurging on a fancy new Nikon! Just in time for the Canadian Rockies.

P_M --
Yes, we ARE kindred spirits. I hate arriving at 8 PM or later. By the time I pick up a car, stop at the market, and drive to Princeville, my poor body thinks it's 3 AM. I'd much prefer to arrive refreshed in the afternoon and have that additional day.

I just discovered your trip report today, Songdoc. Thanks for taking the time to share. Dh and I are headed to Kauai for a week at the end of August to celebrate 30 years of marriage. We are first-timers and are very excited!

Songdoc--
Are you back from the Canadian Rockies? How was your trip? I would love to hear about it!
Well your countdown is less than two months until your return to OUR favorite place on Earth! My countdown until I land on Kauai soil 6 weeks as of tomorrow!!!!!!!!
Did you decide yet if you were going to be crazy and book the Sealodge for January?

louistraveler --
I'm back and the Canadian Rockies were MAGNIFICENT. Wow, what a beautiful place. (I'm in the process of posting my trip report on the Canada forum.)

It was breathtaking -- but that beauty doesn't speak to my soul the way Kauai does. I'm counting the days until October 2nd. I've started looking into January flights and availability ... but just checking for now .

We sat next to a guy on the plane who said he was staying at Sealodge. I was hoping it was you so I mentioned Fodors, but sadly it was not you. Too bad, we could have had a mai tai on your lanai. Maybe another time.

P_M...Your first time in Kauai, how exciting!! I can't wait to hear about your trip! Here's hoping for a trip report coming soon. How about a tid bit of what's your favorite thing about Kauai so far? Enjoy Kauai!!! I'll be there in two weeks and two days!!!!!!!!!!

I wanted to post a quick note to say that I was blown away by Kauai. DH liked it too, but like Songdoc's DP he did not bond with Kauai like I did. Hence I have made a life-altering decision, Songdoc please listen up because this affects you too.

I have decided that Songdoc and I belong together. Songdoc, I know you want to move to Kauai now and your DP wants to wait a few years. He doesn't understand you like I do and I am ready to move to Kauai with you ASAP. Yeah I know, I am not your gender of choice but hey, no relationship is perfect. This is a minor issue and I am willing to overlook that. And who knows, maybe your soon-to-be ex DP and my DH will hook up.

I know you are leaving for Kauai in October so please tell me where exactly to meet you. See you soon.

Tom, we weren't "looking". The reason we're going, specifically when we're going, was because an exchange became available (Maui exchanges are rare) for our Palm Desert timeshare, so we grabbed it. It's at the Marriott Ocean Club on Kaanapali Beach. We also had a $99 companion ticket on Alaska air so our airfare was very reasonable. Deal!

1. Flowers galore. I loved seeing wildflowers on the roadside as well as the gorgeous flowers in yards and gardens.

2. The smell. The smell of flowers lingers in the air on most of the island.

3. Snorkelling, especially on Anini Beach where I was surrounded by huge sea turtles. What a thrill!!

4. The people. We loved the casual, laid back vibe of Kauai.

5. The sights. On most beaches the water was clear and clean looking. I loved the dramatic landscape of the north shore but the south and east shores were great too. Waimea Canyon is also a feast for the eyes.

I could go on but these are my faves.

I'm waiting to hear back from Songdoc, I'm sure he's having a talk with his DP to let him know it's over. I feel sorry for Songdoc's DP but he will get over it.

This is hilarious – well, it would be hilarious if we weren’t breaking up two families.

Here’s the plan …
We take both of them hiking on the Kalalau Trail on a moonlit night. It starts raining. It gets muddy; slippery. The moon dips behind the clouds … and there’s a rogue wave … an unfortunate accident. (“Oh, your honor we begged them not to get so close to the edge! Sob.)

You and I are the only witnesses—two strangers who find solace from our grief in each other’s arms. Of course, the multimillion-dollar insurance policies won’t take away our heartache—but somehow, we’ll suffer through, side-by-side beneath the swaying palm trees strumming our ukuleles in the plumeria-scented breezes on the porch of our Anini Beach mansion.

Meet me beneath the palm tree—the one with the chickens near by . I’m sooo glad that Kauai cast its spell on you.

PS. DP wants to know where DH lives. If it’s someplace cool (and without mosquitos) he said we can trade.

Songdoc: I always enjoy browsing your trip reports on Kauai! Can you tell me if there is any calm snorkeling on Kauai in January? If so, where to find it? Here is our dilemma. We always take a "warm" vacation in January to get away from our worst month in San Diego. January is usually grey with a cold rain in January. It's depressing for me. So we often go to Hawaii or Costa Rica in January.

We don't mind some tropical rain, as it doesn't feel at all like our cold San Diego January rain. So we often split our stay between the dryer and the wetter sides of the islands.

We do only 1 island at a time. Last January we fell in love with the Big Island. We have also been to Maui which is lovely and romantic but a bit touristy and not enough biology for my husband.

We are considering Oahu for the first time in January 2013 but the south of Oahu is way too built up for me, it sounds like.

So there's Kauai...we haven't been to Kauai for over 20 years! Looks like we are choosing between Oahu and Kauai for January 2013.

Sorry for the very long-winded question! But is there any calm snorkeling on Kauai in January, and if so, where? If we were to split our stay between the "dry" and the "wet green" side of Kauai in January, where would you suggest we base ourselves?

<<DP wants to know where DH lives. If it’s someplace cool (and without mosquitos) he said we can trade>>

Songdoc, We live in TX so a trade won't work. In order to acheive our dream of a life in Kauai together we will have to bump them off. I'll start my search for a life insurance policy now. Don't tell anyone our plan, this must be kept a secret.

I remember the palm tree with the chickens below it, I will see you soon my darling.

Once upon a time there was a group on Fodor's called the K9's. Those dreaded(most people disliked their silliness and kliquish behavior even though they gave great travel advice about Kaua'i) K9's finally left Fodor's because they travelled to Kaua'i enough times for their disease called "Kaua'itis to go into remission!

Now it seems that P_M and Songdoc have contracted the same disease!!

It has been rumoured some of the K9's have the disease once again and the only cure can be for P_M to do a trip report. She and former K9, iamq, do the best trip reports in the whole wide world!

P_M glad you loved Kaua'i and seriously can't wait to hear all about your time there!

Icee....111....but who is counting, yah? Every year since '89 whether we need to or not <did miss the Iniki year because most of the repair people were staying at our hotel>

P_M...

As for the K9s....don't want to rehash it but it was funny because we got in trouble repeating some of the complaints by people who didn't like their stay.
Rains all the time, people not friendly, bugs too big, no nightlife, too dark, too expensive....etc

Kal, I can't imagine how anyone could say the people of Kauai weren't friendly. We met one rude guy at K-Mart but otherwise we never met anyone who wasn't friendly and welcoming. When we left, a guy at the airport saw how sad we were and told us to please come back, we are welcome anytime.

Kal, if you and the Mrs will sneak me into your checked bag on your next trip to Hawaii, I will happily pay the $25 checked bag fee. Heck, I'll give you $30 and you can keep the change for your time and trouble. Deal??

I fear that I am becoming a Hawaii ho. It's sorta like being a coke ho or a crack ho,except my addiction is Hawaii.

FYI, Songdoc is frantically working INSANE hours to finish a ton of work that has to be done before leaving, so hasn't been checking in as often as usual. Preparing to relax is such hard work.

I wonder if there's rehab for Hawai'i addicts. Nah. There have been no instances of anyone actually being cured. It's a terrible affliction that tears families apart. My disease has gotten so bad that planning the next trip doesn't work anymore. I'm now planning 2 -3 trips at any given time. (I already have January booked.) It's so sad ...

Was on Kauai about a week and a half after Iniki - for a Board meeting up at the Cliffs. Looked like somebody took a huge helicopter type lawnmower, and cut off anything that was over about 30 feet high. Just incredible how many downed trees, etc, there were - and yet the locals said - this looks pretty clean - you should have seen it right after the hurricane.

But then it grew back.

Slug thru it Sondoc - the Kauai reward is waiting - you very fortunate "addict".

<Songdoc & I will just miss each other..I'm leaving on Sept 28 and he is arriving Oct 2 .>

Well, you'll just have to extend your trip! I hope it'll be awesome!

I'll actually arrive Oct. 3rd. I'm leaving the 2nd & will overnight in San Jose, arriving LIH at 11:20 AM. I have to work until 5PM on the 2nd. If I left the morning of the 3rd I wouldn't be getting in until 3 AM (to my body).

It was a great fare--and I think it'll be easier on my body. Besides, I get an extra day in paradise .

I just don't know what we are going to do with ourselves in October. First trip with no kids and their friends. No dragging the cooler full of beer to the beach(they were old enough to drink), no threatening to buy a gun at Walmart and shoot chickens, no daancing until midnight at Tahiti Nui and throwing Mai Tai glasses out the window to be retrieved later as souveniers only to have them break on the black top. No rolling dice for chores. No getting drunk on the evening cruise and then harassing tourists. Just don't know what we are going to do!!! lol Hoping I get to meet somebody from Fodors so I'm not bored out of my mind.

Our flights are a real nightmare. Fly into Honolulu and have to overnight for 4 nights (poor planning on husband's part - also has to work) then inter island flight to Kauai. Coming back he routed us through Honolulu again. Last time he gets to do the planning!

PS Just got email from son wanting to know when we are going to Kauai. MIGHT SHOW UP!!! HELPPPP

Songdoc just bought some serious hiking boots. That means I'm hoping to do some serious hiking in Kauai. Some of the trails in Koke'e have always been too muddy and slippery when I've tried to do them with sneakers. This time, there will be no excuses!!!

I'm counting the minutes. American Airlines better not mess this up!!! I hear they've been canceling flights--and I'm flying them on my first leg; Nashville to LAX.

I'm back from Kauai Well I've been back since Saturday afternoon. I missed that island from the moment I woke up on our last day there and I'm already thinking about when I can go next !

DH & I considered this a bonus trip. We have gone in odd numbered years to Hawaii...05, 07, 09 (canceled), and 11. This was a bonus for us because we didn't get to make that 09 trip; I finished a paralegal program; and it was only planned in 3 months. I found tickets 3 months ago for $587 and I couldn't pass them up.

This trip was spent mastering the art of being beach bums!! It was wonderfully relaxing and we loved every minute spent on our favorite place on Earth! We spent the most of our time on our favorite beach Lumahai and one day boogie boarding at Brennecke's on the south shore. Other than that we drove along the North Shore taking it all in to burn it in our memory!

It's getting more difficult to come home after each visit. You know, Songdoc, as we were walking to the B10 there was a for sale notice on one of the condos...hahaha are you thinking what I'm thinking!!! I'd be willing to split the cost and share it !!

I'm guessing Paradise Rentals would get you an older car that worked fine for about $600. I've used them twice and will use them again in January -- but just know it won't be a fancy, new car. If you want A/C and a CD player be sure to specify that because they don't all come with those things.

Personally, I'd rather have a few dents or a broken door lock -- and an additional $800 in my pocket!

Thanks for the quick response. When looking for Paradise Rental's email I ran across two good reviews on Yelp for Gingerbread car rental http://www.cars-kauai.com/, so I'm checking them out as well. I agree with you about saving money on a rental car!