Description

If some loose blocks bother you, then this climb should not get a star at all. Then again, if loose blocks bother you, why are you at this crag? This particular climb is the loosest of them, however, and is a borderline bomb. Gillett even refers to a portion of this route as a 'talus hopping groove' and fails to even mention the pile encountered topping out which must be negotiated to get to the belay tree. It can be safe, and nothing was eminently loose, but this is no route for inexperienced leaders.

At the far right side of the North Face of the Stewardess Convention Crag, start up and into a short, right-facing corner. Climb up that corner past the steep section and into the stacked blocks and towers, heading up to a second right-facing corner above. Climb that corner to the end at an arete and pick and choose your way left to a very large belay tree. Watch out for where your rope runs and also protect the top of the climb before the traverse very carefully to avoid "sweeping" the top down onto the belayer/second if the rope shifts.

We cleaned this climb up quite a bit, but it may regrow-refill a bit if nobody gets back on it for years.

Location

The climb sits at the right side of the main face of the crag, following some discontinuous, yet obvious right-facing corners.

Protection

A standard rack to 4" with long slings. A 60m rope is required to rap from the second tree (further to climbers left on the cliff) or from the bolts on Aviatrix.