Turn it about 45 degrees upward so that the bottom "circle" on the lever is at the top of the sight.

Don't forget to clean it!

I usally soak the metal parts in hot (steaming) water, and wash them with a rag. Scrub the important stuff with gun oil on a toothbrush, clean out the barrel and then I'm done.

Usually after shooting though I just clean the barrel with a few oiled shotgun wipes (they fit) and scrub the inside part where the bullets load into with an oiled up toothbrush. My main reason for soaking it so far has just been removing cosmoline.

I usally soak the metal parts in hot (steaming) water, and wash them with a rag. Scrub the important stuff with gun oil on a toothbrush, clean out the barrel and then I'm done.

Usually after shooting though I just clean the barrel with a few oiled shotgun wipes (they fit) and scrub the inside part where the bullets load into with an oiled up toothbrush. My main reason for soaking it so far has just been removing cosmoline.

well thats just too bad for you, cosmoline can lick my balls. I cant stand touching my yugo's stock, its loaded with that junk. I did a deep cleaning with rags, tooth brushes, and some of that heavy duty gun cleaner on the gun (minus the damn stock) and put an ATI folder on, but i left the cam in place, so it doesnt fold yet, not enough US made parts yet.

Field Stipping a Phantom, or most Nelson style guns (same basic principles).

There's a reason these are generally considered the easiest markers to repair/maintain, there's nothing to them.

Step 1: Remove your airsource. Pull the trigger. If you have a check valve, fire 1 or 2 shots after you remove your air source, to be sure your marker is empty of all pressurized air. Remove your barrel. Remove a detent ring if you left it in there.Barrel and Air Source removed

Step 2: Turn the gun upside down, and unscrew the 2 thumbscrews holding the grip frame to the marker body. If the marker has not been disassembled yet, you may need to use an allen key to loosen up the thumbscrews, as Mike Casady likes to make them tight.

Upside-down Phantom

Close-Up of a thumbscrew

Step 3: The valve will slide out the back of the marker. Remove the pump arm from the bolt (it should just be a rod in a hole). Then 3 other parts will slide out, which were not visibe before. The hammer comes out first, then the mainspring, then the bolt/TPC/velocity adjuster. Nelsons are "backwards", the hammer sits near the back of the marker (which is why it comes out first), and moves further backwards to strike the valve. The hammer carries the sear with it.

Hammer/sear on the left, mainspring center, and bolt/velocity adjuster on the right

Step 4:Clean and re-lube everything. I just use marker lube, although people say certain lubes will eat at O-Rings. If they do, it's slow enough not to matter. Just use marker lube, don't be a cheapass.

closeup of the bolt/tpc

That is the bolt. The center screws in to increase the tension on the mainspring, thus the hammer hits the valve harder, opens it more/longer, and the ball gets more velocity. Screw it all the way counter clockwise, then adjust velocity. Do not screw in more than 6 turns, you will unseat the threads, causing unstable velocity and damage to the TPC. Instead use a stronger mainspring, or if applicable, adjust your regulator.

The TPC has a nylon set screw. After you adjust your velocity, tighten it against the threads, but not to the point where you strip the nylon screw. You just need a bit of friction.

The inside part of the bolt, notice the airflow directing holes

If you want, use a .050" allen key to adjust the setscrew in the top center hole of this pic. It will adjust how much force is required to trigger the safety (in either direction).

Step 5: Re-assemble everything the way it was. If you have a phantom, grey ghost, or some other markers, the internals are "anti-kink", which means they wrap around the mainspring to prevent it from bending or kinking. If they are not like this, then just slide them into the marker's tube. If they are, I find it easier to reassemble them first, and slide them in as a group

Anti-kink parts all on the mainspring

As you slide them in, be sure the sear fits in one groove, and the hole in the bolt is visible in the other

Re-insert the pump arm into the bolt. Insert the valve into the back, being sure to feed the powertube through the hammer, mainspring, and into the bolt. The powertube is the long tube sticking out the valve, where the air escapes. We want it to feed directly into the bolt. Attach the gripframe, being sure the pump return spring rests against the outside of it (see pic)

Valve, internals, and body all put back together

Notice how the Pump Return Spring has a washer sitting against the gripframe, giving it something to push against

Screw in the 2 thumbscrews, smaller in front. Just hand tighten them. Drop 1-3 drops of marker lube in your ASA or 12 gram piercer. Dry fire 15 shots or so WITH NO BARREL. if any lube gets in your barrel, your accuracy will be shot to hell, the oil will create a huge amount of spin inside the barrel. Re-attach your barrel, and you're set!

This did not cover disassembling your valve. You should almost never have to do this as long as you drop 1-3 drops of lube in the ASA before every day of play, and dry fire it through the marker. The valve takes care of itself just fine. If you wanted to take it apart, it is about as simple as the rest of the marker. You can take a .22 casing, fill it with wax, and put it inside the valve spring. It should get you about 2-5 more shots off a 12gram.

I'm completely worthless as a human being and I steal my friends personal items

why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\

__________________
"last week I put my dick in a fat girl and woke up with a profound understanding of the blues. those who know, don't say, and those who say, don't know." - möbiustrip

why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\

well lube is short for lubricant which is used to reduce friction on moving parts. I suggest lubing places of metal to metal contact

why does no one clearly identify the parts that should be lubed. SIG doesn't really specify, nor do any of the forum HOWTOs I've come across. I lubed mine up well, but fuck if I know if something is getting fucked because I didnt lube it properly :\

Springfield doesn't either I asked myself the same thing when I was reading through my manual.

Turn it about 45 degrees upward so that the bottom "circle" on the lever is at the top of the sight.

Pull/swing the gas tube up from the back forward, be careful that the piston does not fly out! (Yay it's off now)

Now, flip over the rifle, and make use of the tools to remove the trigger. Push with the punch, on the small button behind the trigger guard, It takes a bit of a push, the trigger will pop out, and you can just pull it right on out.

Remove the magazine, it just pops right out.

Hooray, almost there

Now, turn the rifle over, it's time to remove the stock

Pivot the barrel downward (pivot point is the front end of the stock), Mine is a bitch, and is very snug, it takes a little wrestling/elbow grease to get it out, also I remove the cleaning rod and pull the bayonet out before pivoting the barrel.

Now it's all (not entirely) disassembled.

Put it back together in reverse order, and enjoy

Dude, is that thing caked with cosmoline or are the pics deceiving? If it does in fact have all that cosmoline on the bolt carrier and bolt you might want to get rid of that before you have a ridiculous slam fire.