UPWARD TREND: Alexis Mabille and Maison Martin Margiela were made bona-fide holders of the official haute couture appellation by French fashion’s governing body, the Chambre Syndicale, on Tuesday. (Mabille had been a guest member and Margiela, a correspondent member, of the couture calendar.)

There are now 14 fashion houses with haute couture appellation, including establishment houses like Christian Dior and Chanel, as well as relative newcomers like Giambattista Valli; five correspondent members, such as Giorgio Armani and Azzedine Alaïa, and 11 guest members, including this season’s newcomer, Hervé Leroux.

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