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Brauerei Hirt – Hirter Privat Pils

THE TINY DORFof Hirt lies closer to Austria’s border with Slovenia than to either Salzburg or Vienna. Perhaps this is why Hirter Brauerei’s pilsner is as reminiscent of shoulder-shrugging euro lager as its legendary Austrian brethren. Its light color, clear aroma of white bread, and slightly elevated bitterness and minerality in the aftertaste share relatively little with the more robust and malty Vienna-style lagers. Grassy Saaz hops are muted in both aroma and on the palate, depriving the beer of depth or pop. Still, its clean features and alpine water make it modestly engaging for all its mediocrity.