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Had A thought, why not add....

MORE SHOCKS? I don't know if this has been done before, but I tried it. Added four more stock shocks.

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Front
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Rear
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I have not driven it yet. I Removed my RPM blue A-arms. I didn't want to drill any holes in them. So, back on went the stock A-arms. I have to drill one hole for the sway bar link on the left front A-arm. The Left front A-arm is actually off of a 2wd Pede, just modified to fit the front of my 4x4 Pede. I need to get the correct size drill bit. After that, I will bash it and see how it performs and holds up. Wish me luck. You may be asking, why did I do it? Well, because I can, and did.

Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm

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May want to pick up some of the softest springs you can find, and some 20 wt shock oil to go with them. The old maxx springs(red ones) were much softer than my 2wd pede xl5 springs. So even know the maxx weighed almost double, each of the 8 individual springs was softer than a pede spring because there were twice as many. Find the softest losi xxx 2.5"(for rear) and 2" (for front) springs available. With 8 stock springs, and stock weight oil, its gonna be way too stiff.

It may be the pics, but looks like the shocks are not aligned perfectly. If those shocks dont compress in the exact line that the suspension arm swings, they could bind or bend a shaft. You may need to space the added shocks up top to get them just right, or the pic or my eyes could be fooling me.

I really like the mini maxx look! I see no reason why this could not be made to work, just getting the setup correct may be difficult as finding springs that are soft enough may be difficult.

Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm

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The shocks moving out of line with the suspension arm movement is one of the biggest causes of bent shock shafts(example is a 2wd shock tower that bends heavily in a big 1 wheel landing will miss-align the shock and cause a shaft to bend. They should def be in line, or the shock will bind and want to bend in the middle as the angle gets worse as the shock is compressed. If the top shock mounts were mounted sideways like a trailing arm shock, or there was a modded ball setup to let the top of the shock pivot in that direction, then there will be no binding. The stock shoulder screws will not let the shock move that way...

Old harrumph here. I've always believed that adding unnecessary parts rather than swapping for better parts is a mistake. One correctly-sized aluminum 1:8 buggy/truggy shock would give much better performance than any two plastic Ultra shocks.

The shocks moving out of line with the suspension arm movement is one of the biggest causes of bent shock shafts(example is a 2wd shock tower that bends heavily in a big 1 wheel landing will miss-align the shock and cause a shaft to bend. They should def be in line, or the shock will bind and want to bend in the middle as the angle gets worse as the shock is compressed. If the top shock mounts were mounted sideways like a trailing arm shock, or there was a modded ball setup to let the top of the shock pivot in that direction, then there will be no binding. The stock shoulder screws will not let the shock move that way...

You are right. I didn't realize the misalignment would make the shocks try to move in a way the shoulder screws don't allow.

I did not consider the issue of misalignment. The rear shocks are spot on. The front is not. Making them fit and not interfere with the steering links was more of an issue. But, moving the arms up and down, there is no binding. Stiff it is. I drove it today. It actually takes the bumps better and with more control. Yes, it needs lighter springs and oil. what I've seen so far. it works. I did not have any money to spend on this project. I plan to, in the future, to add the Proline Protrax Suspension, A Slash chassis and larger tires and wheels. So, in my opinion, this set up will benefit more once the other mods are done. You could call this " research and development". Either way, it was fun to build. I had all the parts. No money spent. A bast to drive. So all A+'s in my book.

Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm

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Been thinking, could be a good way to support those big 1/8 scale power systems and monster 4s packs 8)

The issue with binding shocks wont appear until you land awkward very hard and the shock tower flexes. You wont notice any binding by just pushing the arm up with your fingers. Its gonna take big forces to cause a problem. It may not ever be a problem, but if you bend a shock shaft on the misaligned shock, you will know why.

Well, as I said. Wanted to see if it works. I do want to add the Protrac kit, slash chassis and 3.2 rims and tires. I didn't use my RPM arms because, if it didn't work, I didn't ruin my RPM arms. Plus I didn't spend any money to do it, so nothing lost. Plus, it looks pretty darn cool. I cannot lie. For me, it has to look as good as it performers. I love the mechanical aspect of R/Cing as much as the driving aspect. Being able to modify my vehicle is part of the fun. I fix full size vehicle for a living. It's in my blood to improve there ability. So hate it or love it. It was a fun project for me and there is room to improve and play around with it.

I'd like to see where this goes! Does everything have adequate clearance? Seems like the steering turnbuckles would cause a little interference. The shock towers should be a little more protected from off-angle forces now. I wish you luck!! Good job making it your own. That's the best part of this hobby!

Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm

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I think I like it more every time I come to this thread. This would be well suited for a slash 4x4 mt with heavy electronics. Easier to find a range of spring rates for a heavier truck. Can you post pics of any clearance issues with the steering links? I know there are offset link ends that could move the steering link away from the shock:

The front shocks touch the steering links, but the steering turns full left and right with no binding at any suspension position. I will post some pics soon. As far as the Monster Slash Plan. It's going to be awhile before it happens. I have no budget at this time. So, unless I can sell something, it will have to wait until I win the Lottery. It's a pipe dream for now.

I knew something was right with the truck. Had less power going to the front wheels. I found that the collar that is attached to the front of the slipper clutch shaft was not tight and moving around. I also found a chunk of one slipped clutch pads was broken off. Lucky for me, I have a spare. To dark out and too many mosquitoes outside to drive it tonight. i will have to wait until tomorrow to see if the problem is fixed.
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I have seen this before, about them being backwards. But, if you look at how the stock axles come on a Stampede new out of the box. Traxxas has them the same way. Besides. the two axles halves are a tight fit. How much dirt can actually get in there? Mine have not been filled with any. Despite driving though mud, sand and water. Check my other treads for picture proof.

On another note. If we can't curse, "which is totally understandable and I agree with it" then why do we have this Face?