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Description

Just a tad softer than the Instinct, we tune up the slipper design with a single strap and Vibram® XS Edge rubber to resist deformation when standing on micro-flakes and edges. The Instinct VS spans the performance arc from slabby boulder problems to overhanging gym routes. Sensitivity, with just enough power from the Bi-Tension randing for standing on dimes; these do it all.

Just a tad softer than the Instinct, we tune up the slipper design with a single strap and Vibram® XS Edge rubber to resist deformation when standing on micro-flakes and edges. The Instinct VS spans the performance arc from slabby boulder problems to overhanging gym routes. Sensitivity, with just enough power from the Bi-Tension randing for standing on dimes; these do it all.

Technologies

Sizing

Measure your foot with a ruler, using cm or inches; convert to Euro or US using this chart. If you need mondo sizing, please refer to the SCARPA chart on this page/tab.
We recommend you purchase two sizes, the size you think you are plus one .5 size bigger for fit testing at home. As long as the products are in like new condition and the packaging is 100% intact, we will credit you for the returned product.

General fitting rules depend on the product's intended use... follow the appropriate guidelines below for best results.

Trail/mountain/approach/lifestyle products:

The bigger/heavier/more supportive the product, the more you may want to upsize .5 - 1full size. Lighter, softer, more supple shoes can be sized closer to your measured size.

Try on with appropriate socks for your usage. The bigger the boot, the more appropriate a bigger sock (sounds crazy, huh?)

If you use orthotics or already have aftermarket footbeds, measure against the standard footbed in boot. Fit into boot for sizing/fitting the boot.

Best to try on at the end of the day when your feet are larger/swollen, than when your feet are fresh to ensure good fit after a long day.

Lacing can play an incredibly important part of a good fit. Be sure to play with lacing when analyzing fit.

Make sure your heel isn't slipping.

Make sure your toes aren't hitting the end.

**Approach shoes may be sized smaller for performance purposes but beware... small shoes are really uncomfortable on the trail.

Rock climbing shoes

From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned/aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.

The best fit is comparative between sizes and only you will be able to judge that, though an experience climber could offer good insights to your fit.

Videos

Recent Reviews

(1 - 5) of 10

Anonymous Sep 10, 2014

Rating:

Much like the Instinct slipper, these shoes are suited for all manner of terrain. The Velcro version adds, of course, Velcro for an even more secure and custom fit, and a full heel cup which is a little less sensitive but allows for more weight to be taken before it deforms. Full toe rubber as with most of Scarpa’s aggressive models rounds out this shoe nicely. The biggest difference though is the XS Edge rather than the XS Grip 2. The Edge will last longer and provides even more power to the toe box at the cost of a small degree of flexibility and sensitivity. Choose between these two models according to your personal climbing style and preference.

Anonymous Jun 10, 2014

Rating:

This shoe has given me unrivaled performance on a wide variety of terrain and is my go to shoe for everything but hard trad routes. I used to think it was too technical for anything but steep sport or bouldering, but it's turned out to be a versatile performer on just about everything I climb. I am not a fan of tight shoes so I size up a half size from my street shoe size for harder sends and a full size for multi-pitch routes comfortably.
The Vibram XS Edge rubber is incredibly sticky and the durability impressive. Edges on a dime and sensitivity for smears and even slabs is amazing. The bad ass look of the shoe inspires as much confidence as the rubber. The fit and quality set SCARPA apart from the competition. The toe box is roomy enough that it isn't cramped and the heel cup keeps it on without cutting into the achilles. Hands down my go to shoe. Thanks SCARPA!!

Anonymous Jun 1, 2014

Rating:

If I had to choose only one pair of climbing shoes to have and climb in for the rest of my life, I'd choose the Instinct VS. They can do it all, and are long-lasting, too.

Anonymous Mar 2, 2014

Rating:

One of the best shoes I have
worn to date! You'll see Alex
Puccio winning some ABS
Nationals and rocking these,
so let that be a testament.
They perform better than my
old Forces, Feroces, and Vapor
V's. Better than Tenaya Ra's.
On par with Solutions.
I went 1.5 sizes below my
street shoe, but maybe could
have gone two based on my foot
measurements. Don't know how
much these stretch yet, but I
have heard/read only up to 1/3
of a size. My street shoes are
9 & 1/2(42.5), with my left
measuring a size 9(42)
barefoot and my right an 8 &
1/2(41.5). I ordered these in
a size 8(41), and they are a
little painful... but only
after a long session or having
them on for too many problems.
Also, they may turn your feet
orange :P
The XS Edge is great so far
and almost as sticky as the XS
Grip 2 I feel with of course
increased durability. Doesn't
make sense really, but
Scarpa's Vibram rubber feels
stickier than the same La
Sportiva Vibram rubber to me.
The toe box is really nice,
especially with the rubber on
top and fairly wide for some
comfort even when super tight.
I understand this is one of
the lowest volume heels
offered by Scarpa, even a
little more so than the
Boostic. I have had a couple
other pairs of Scarpas and the
toe box always fits great,
super snug... but my heel
always has dead space, which
means of course they may not
fit my foot quite right. These
are improved and the heel is
well done although for me
there is still only a little
dead space. I may need to try
downsizing another 1/2 in the
future to snug up the heel
even more. They are not broke
in yet though, so still unsure
if I could bear it. Best to
date for Scarpa for sure if
great heels and bouldering are
your thing. Can't wear Five
Ten or Evolv really... La
Sportiva seems to have the
most narrow heels/least dead
space I have tried.
These are definitely up there
with the Solutions. They might
perform just as good and maybe
better in some aspects. They
are more versatile I feel and
better on plastic than the
Solutions. The heel is more
sensitive and the rubber feels
less clunky initially because
of the 3mm edge vs 4mm grip2
on Solutions.
All in all, great work. Plus
they look sweet to boot. You
may just get some compliments
or people asking what
brand/model of shoe you're
wearing like I did. Hope this
helps some make a decision to
get them and with sizing. Go 1
size down from your street
shoes(not barefoot size) for a
nicer, lax fit or 1.5-2 for
redpointing/climbing at your
own limit.
So yeah, basically get them...
They're sweet!!!

Anonymous Mar 2, 2014

Rating:

These shoes are great! I sized
them down a size and a half
from my street shoes.