How does everyone launch their Pro Anglers? Is it necessary to back the trailer down a launching ramp and float it off like you would a larger boat? Or can you take it off the trailer, put it on the two-wheeled cart, and get it to the water's edge that way? Then do we tie it off to a dock and climb in, or get in right on the ramp? Also, what's the best way to do a beach launch?

If you have a trailer that you can back down a ramp, I'd definitely go that route. I have a roof rack and a bed extender and neither one works well for launching from a boat ramp. Even if you use the cart that Hobie offers as an option. you still have to get the cart on and off which is a pain in the u-know-what. I mean...Who wants to unload their PA, then turn it on its side on a rough concrete boat ramp to install the scupper hole cart so you can pull the PA up an often slick, wet ramp to the parking lot...OR...If you want to install the cart while the PA is at the water's edge, you'll have to get wet reaching under the PA while trying to find the scupper holes to insert the cart through.

If you go the route where you are using a bed extender, you'll have to back down the ramp to the water and then pull the PA up about 3 feet to get it over the edge of the extender while standing on the steep angled, wet, often slippery ramp. And then remember that the PA is 12 or 14' long so you have to wade out into the deeper water to get to the back handle of the PA to try to push it up far enough over the end of the extender so you can secure it before leavng the ramp area...Its not enough to just get the PA started over the edge of the extender because the PA will try to roll and slide back off the extender...So you have to hold it up while walking down along side it to get around to the back handle...Its a pain in the backside...Just yesterday I had a perfect fishing day...Weather was perfect (not too hot, no wind, no boat traffic, lots of fish caught). The tide was high when I came back in to the boat launch at the end of the day around sunset. I backed my truck down the boat ramp, put my bed extender on and unloaded everything from my PA...No trouble until I tried to pull the PA up onto the edge of the extender. I got it up over the edge, but when I tried to pull it up further from the side of the PA, it was too heavy so I walked down into deeper water to get to the rear handle. As I pushed the PA up into the truck bed, I slipped on the ramp and busted my shin and knee cap pretty good. Blood went everywhere...I slipped down under the water, completely. I was soked to the bone and as luck would have it, I hadn't brought a towel this time out...There were other people out standing around that witnessed my misfortune and they were nice enough to ask if I was alright. I said I was OK...Of course I wasn't because I was bleeding all over the place...But I was more embarrassed than in pain from the incident...Launching the PA was much easier though...I have cleats on both sides, front and back and some rope that I use to walk the PA down the dock after attaching the motor and getting everything onboard...The H-Bar is a big help when having to step down a few feet into the Pa from the dock. Make sure that you have the PA tied off front and back first before trying to step in because you may lose balance or the PA might try to push away from you as you are trying to step in. Then just untie the lines from the dock and push off from the dock, and you're on your way

Launching from the shore or a beach is much easier (just walk the PA out far enough to get in, paddle it through the breakers, then quickly install the Mirage drive, and you're good to go. Remember though that you have to face the surf head on. Don't let yourself get pushed sideways or you will likely get turtled). If you have a motorized PA with no way to lift the motor up in shalow water while launching, you'll need deeper water to launch from, which makes it harder to get in the PA without getting wet...So...No motor...Launch from shore...With a motor installed that has no way to lift or lower it, use a boat ramp. Putting in the water from a ramp is easy...Its getting the PA out of the water which can be more challenging ...And yes...You can put your PA in the water from the trailer, or use the cart. Either way will work. I hope that I've helped...Sorry for the long story

Thanks for the tips YakFish, and sorry you slipped on the ramp - I know, they can be treacherous! I'll probably stick with the trailer approach, and just have to practice and work out the details as I go. Thanks again!

1. Back your trailer down to the waters edge. (Have your PA already fully loaded and ready to launch)2. Push the PA off the trailer (you should have a rope tied to the front of your PA so that it won't drift away).3. Secure the PA and park vehicle/trailer4. Go fish

When returning, loading it on your trailer should be simple. 1. Remove some of the heavier items (cooler/Mirage drive).2. Back trailer to waters edge3. Lift front end of PA onto trailer4. Attach to winch and just crank it onto trailer5. Worry about storing your gear AFTER you have pulled away from the launch so that you do not impede other boaters at the launch.

Nothing more fun than spending the day at the boat ramp watching everyone else

I just switched from the bed extender to a modified jet ski trailer, and it is MUCH easier to launch and retrieve the PA now. I copied Tom Kirkman's idea and used 2 inch PVC pipe to modify the trailer. As Islandspeed2001 described, it is now a super simple and easy process. Use a trailer.

You have lots of good answers above about launching from a trailer. I will only add that I have a Harbor Freight trailer and I only back the trailer up so that the end of the PA overhangs the waterline by a foot or so. You only need a few inches of water to launch the PA. so, no need to get the trailer bearings wet.

As far as getting in the PA. I do NOT tie off to a dock or try to get in the PA from a dock. Too hard to keep it from floating away from you as you try to get in. I just wade out on the ramp until knee deep, then I back my butt up against the side rail and set it down in the seat. I do this from the side facing the shore so that when I do the "PA squat" to get in I also get a push away from the shore. I think this is where the arm rest on the new seat on the 2012's will pose a problem. I lke the original seat for this reason.

Could someone please re-post the jet ski trailer conversion, or a link to it? I was going to buy the Trailex trailer for $1300-something, but I'd rather get the less expsensive jet ski trailer and do the conversion myself. Thanks!

I also went the Harbor Freight trailer route, mainly due to the cost of a "kayak trailer" and for the 12" tires. Only modification required is a couple pieces of treated 2"x4" lumber and two lengths 2" PVC pipe and you'll be good to go for under $400. AND you can use the trailer for other purposes.

As mentioned above, I just back the trailer down to water's edge and it will slide slide of easily, same when loading. The PVC is the best way to keep the PA from shifting sideways on the trailer and expecially when loading/unloading, they act like guide ons.

FWIW, I have been using a bed extender and had no difficulties at all. I don't try to use it like a trailer, backing it down to waters edge, etc. I park in the lot as close to the water as possible, pull the PA back far enough to slip the wheelset in the scuppers, pull it down onto the ground, and then do all my rigging with the wheelset in place. then just walk the PA to the ramp / beach / whatever, back it in to knee-deep water, and slip the wheels out while the PA is floating flat. Same process in reverse for coming home. I never have to tip the PA to insert the wheels. I find it very easy to just lift the front of the PA onto the bed extender in the flat parking lot, then lift the rear of the PA (with wheelset in place) and slide it forward into the truckbed. This would be an "uphill battle", quite literally, if loading was done on the boat ramp rather than in the level parking lot. I need to replace my truck and just stared another post looking for advice regarding attributes of PA trailer over wheelset launches.

Could someone please re-post the jet ski trailer conversion, or a link to it? I was going to buy the Trailex trailer for $1300-something, but I'd rather get the less expsensive jet ski trailer and do the conversion myself. Thanks!

Magic Tilt MT14900. While less expensive than the Trailex, it is twice the trailer! Think I paid $599.

Could someone please re-post the jet ski trailer conversion, or a link to it? I was going to buy the Trailex trailer for $1300-something, but I'd rather get the less expsensive jet ski trailer and do the conversion myself. Thanks!

I converted a jet ski trailer to my Hobie kayak trailer. Here's the thread with photos;

Since then, I've added carpet to the bunks. The kayak wasn't wearing but the pipes on the trailer were due to road vibrations and such. I went to Walmart and bought a front door mat and used a spray glue to attach carpet patches where I could see the kayak was wearing away the pipe bunks. So, after building and a few trips, take a look and see where you too can add some carpet pieces to keep the trailer in good shape.

Here is picture of the $599 Magic Tilt trailer. At the time of the picture, I had it rigged to carry two kayaks, including my Outback. All of the Thule/Yakama rigging was picked up second hand. I had a total of $850 invested.

The piece on the rear of the trailer is called a "Show Boat." I have one on top of an Subaru Outback and it's very nice for one person loading of a kayak. It slides out so you can clear the rear of the car, then once you lift the rear of the kayak the roller helps you slide it onto the roof mount. Then you just slide the roller back back in and lock in place.

Thanks, Tom, for the youtube post, and thanks again everyone for your help! I'll probably go with either the Triton or Magic Tilt and do the PVC mod. What would be the center-to-center spacing on the pipes? I've seen posts that range from 10 to 11.5"; any consensus here? Thanks again,