- - Several pictures added to pictorial (let me know if I missed yours, I
have a bunch of pictures that I lost the original email to!).
- - Rotary Lift article added to the tech articles page.
- - Several links added.

The new products pages are nearly complete and will be up tomorrow
night! This will feature products which are available at a discount to
Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members and web site visitors. Items
covering all years will be featured. If these pages do well we'll be
able to expand our free services. Web space has been tight so we
haven't been able to do some of the things we've been wanting to.

As I have been test-modifying my left defroster outlet vent so that it
clears the dash gauges but doesn't hit the wiper arm (about 1/8" behind
it--a heck of a design) I have dropped numerous things like lock
washers, nuts, ....even a screwdriver....and hadn't seen hide or hair of
any of them. Please be aware this is a 53 pickup with no carpeting,
etc. to hide things, plus it's painted bright YELLOW just to make it
easier to see. Yes, I do regularly check the lower front bent edge
trough of the dash regularly.
I am a firm believer the Don Neighbors' saying, and want to extend it to
include the cosmic world of the unknown, where the things just don't
fall in a bad place, but where THEY NEVER APPEAR AGAIN!

> Also,
> the slip yoke had a lot of up & down and side to side movement that it's
> not supposed to have. I'm thinking it probably bent or loosened up.
> C4 and it doesn't look like any real trick to replace the output shaft. If
> anyone's done this could you give me some pointers--what to look out for,
> etc. Thanks.
>

Dan, I'll put some cash on the shaft being lots harder to change than you might
think. There's a real good possibility that the neat little bushing just inside
the seal at the end of the output shaft is the problem, it actually supports
the drive shaft yoke. And as far as that goes, make sure your driveshaft is 1:
the correct length, with about 3/4 to 1-1/4" of the yoke shaft outside the
seal, and 2: that the your bushing surface is not worn or pitted with rust.
To get at the bushing, drop the driveshaft, jack slightly and support the
transmission at the pan (use a 2X6 to spread the load) pull out the speedometer
cable, remove the rear trans mount and unbolt the tailshaft housing. Once
unbolted, it slides right out. Be ready for a oil bath at each step. You can
knock out the bushing if it looks bad with any number of homebuilt devices,
long rod, screwdriver, big nail, what have you. You might want it
professionally installed.

My '56 Effie has been sitting in pieces for a couple of years now, but I'm
looking to start construction soon. I built a 351 Cleveland and a C6 a for
it a while back. I plan to run an IFS with disk brakes, tub the bed,
install a gas tank under the bed, and run a narrowed 9" via Parallel 4-Links
and Coil-Overs.

I need to make a decision on the frame and suspension. I've seen a couple
places advertise complete new frames for F-100s, including No-Limit
Engineering and Fat Man Fabrications. There are also a couple places (I've
spoken with Total Cost Involved, Engineering and Bobco) that will weld the
suspension components onto my frame. I'm not a good enough welder to risk
my life on my welding skills.

There doesn't seem to be a great deal of difference in price between a
pre-fabricated frame and reworking an old one. Is there any pros and cons
to look for before I decide what to do. If I decided to have a new frame
built, what is a good original frame worth? I stripped and painted the
frame, replaced the front kingpins and bushings, had the steering box
rebuilt, bought a new master cylinder and rebuilt the front brakes, and
installed monoleaf reversed eye springs in the front. I haven't touched the
rear.

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