I just wanted to thank everyone at Decware for a great job, my only disapointment is that I couldn't come close to designing a box like this (without completely guessing!)

For review I used one pair of A/D/S/ 3 series 8" drivers with the box panels at 10". The box is 36" wide by 31.5" deep. The amp is a Tapco J2500 which is supposed to do 2500wrms into 4ohm. The sealed section is at .7cuft net at my calcs.

Q1 Time delay: anyone have thoughts on how much delay these have compared to any other type of box? (keep in mind the Wo is right next to my mains)

Q2. One of my speaker baffles is very slightly asymetrical in comparison to the other (meaning it one is placed farther back into the sealed side by about 1/4 or 1/8th of an inch. Could this be responsible for some of the sloppyness in the sound.

Q3. I used 5/16" rubber foam gasket's all the way around, and the 1 5/8 inch fine thread drywall screw I used to screw the lid on seemed like it would strip if I tried to really squish the foam down. As is now, the lid is on very firmly but I'm wondering about the effect of this much foam squishiness. the foam is nearly just as tall now when the lid is on as it was brand new off the roll. When I really pound this thing I hardly feel this flex at all.

To post pics here you will need to have them hosted. I've used Image Shack before. Also seen tinypic.com. There both free. Just need to upload the images and note the url. Place the link between the 2 sets of brackets. Be sure to re-size them before uploading. 640x480 is usually plenty big enough, but if you need to show a hi-res image use the thumbnail option.

For screws I've used 1 5/8" or 2" drywall screw spaced every 3", but you need to find a course thread type, predrill carefully, fully clearance drill the top.

I used similar foam gasket, but I use a careful tightening method. Get them just snug at first all around, then go over each screw again, working from one side to the other. It helps to have someone stand on the top, too, as you snug them up. By the time I get all done the foam is flat. If it's not flat it could leak everywhere there is pressure.

I doubt if that small differential between your baffles will cause any serious problems. I'm sure the psychological stress is far greater than any acoustic effect. Not having the foam compressed would be much more troublesome. The sealed volume needs to match a driver's needs to have a well controlled sound, not too critical, but close is better.

As far as delay, one of the members has a time corrective crossover and had a total delay equal to about 5 meters distance. I can't remember the thread, but if you search the WO forum for group delay you might get lucky.

Q 1 : I'd be guessingQ 2 : IMHO noQ 3 : The gasket: should be fine as long as its solid or closed foam. I just noticed DD's post ::) but I would tighting it the same way, its the same way i do wheel nuts and cylinder heads.Q 4 Long ones: I have not used inserts yet. but next real project gets them. I use deck screws minimum two inch Where I can and always predrill and counter sink if it has to nice.

Now its my turn. I may be selling my car and I am pulling out my ADS sub and equipment. I was also thinking about the WO for them. Are the ADS speakers you used Sub drivers? Let me know your thought on how well your drivers work after you play with it some more.

[quote author=gexter link=1132900725/0#3 date=1132925699]Q 1 : I'd be guessingQ 2 : IMHO noQ 3 : The gasket: should be fine as long as its solid or closed foam.

I just noticed DD's post ::) but I would tighting it the same

way, its the same way i do wheel nuts and cylinder heads.Q 4 Long ones: I have not used inserts yet. but next real

project gets them. I use deck screws minimum two inch

Where I can and always predrill and counter sink if it has to

nice.

Now its my turn. I may be selling my car and I am pulling out my ADS sub and equipment. I was also thinking about the WO for them. Are the ADS speakers you used Sub drivers? Let me know your thought on how well your drivers work after you play with it some more. [/quote]

Yeah the drivers I used were the 308rs model. they are definitely subs, they're not just woofers. Honestly I've only heard a few other drivers that even come close to being as accurate as these a/d/s/'s and I've heard quite a few. So far they have worked great in the WO and all around they are just amazing drivers (plus I got em for $34 each! from Ubid forever ago). For a pair of 8's in a house that is 2000sqft open, they are really loud. Check out my link for pics in the first post.

To the other guys, thanks for the note about course thread screws, I was perhaps mistaken I thought fine thread would be better, but maybe not!

I have a new yamaha receiver with the little mic on it and all so I'll re-run that test and it will fix all my delay stuff, that should clean things up a bit.

Steve D recommends drywall screws. that could be for several reasons. 1 they come in fine thread 2 He is American, and does not see the Canadian superiority of the Robertson head 3 the tapered flat head drywall screw have a smaller profile. 4 He is a better man than me and does not snap the stupid thing off at every 3rd screw hole because I am used to the superiority of Robertsons

I like Deck screws because of the course thread, the sheer brute strength. and the pretty zinc plated colours they can come in.

Thanks on the info on the ADS. I think I am pullling my sub this weekend and putting bigger drivers in the door so I will not cry everytime I drive my car.

I just thought I would update what I found with the YPAO mic on my Yamaha receiver as regards delay. Testing with another usb in a sealed box at the exact same distance the WO mics at 2.5 farther way. Obviosly nowwhere near another diy'rs findings (he said something like 5.9meters) but this is the only equiptment I have so I can't really do anything else. I adjusted for this and I'm not sure I can tell a diff between the 17.5ft and 15ft setting.

I'm going to put a few slugs in the sealed compartment bc it sounds kinda sloppy, maybe that will help.