ALONG The Jordan Valley

To many people, the Jordan Valley is no more than a quick route between the Dead Sea and Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). But this misses out on so much. The Jordan Valley is an area of incredible beauty, with impressive agriculture, including luscious date plantations, and its geology and history are fascinating.

OVERVIEW

THE JORDAN VALLEY

The Jordan Valley is part of the Syrian African Rift (or Great Rift Valley), which runs between Lebanon in the north to Mozambique in Africa, a distance of about 3,700 miles. It results from the moving apart of two tectonic plates – the African Plate and Arabian Plate – leading to a thinning of the earth’s crust. These plates are still, in fact, moving apart.The Arabian plate on the east side of the Jordan River is shifting north, while the African plate is moving to the west. The movement is only several mm a year, but over 15 million years it adds up. The rivers, gullies, and even copper mines on both sides of the Jordan River and Arava no longer align, with a difference of 65-miles between each side.

About 3.7 million years ago﻿, oceanic water from the Mediterranean poured into the Jordan Rift Valley through the Jezreel Valley Subsequently, the intervening mountains, rose up, leading to the isolation of a large lake called Lake Lissan. Lake Kinneret in the north and the Dead Sea are all that remain now of this giant lake. The Jordan River meanders through the length of the Jordan Valley and connects these two lakes. As the crow flies, the distance is only 65 miles, but the twists and turns of the river more than double this.

The greenery one sees throughout the valley is all the more impressive when one realizes that until 50 years ago, when Israel captured this area from Jordan in the Six Day War, it was considered uninhabitable desert. Being in the rain shadow, it typically receives no more than 5 days a year of rain. All the agriculture you see here is due to the success of Israeli ingenuity.

About 70% of the 5,500 people who live here are engaged in agriculture, and 50% of farmers care for the date trees. The date tree thrives in this valley despite the soil’s high salt content. The dates grown here are Madjul dates, the king of dates, and Israel produces about 70% of Madjul dates eaten worldwide. (Hint - fresh dates are best stored in the freezer to prevent them drying out). Other produce grown here includes table grapes, herbs, bell peppers, and flowers. The profitability of agriculture is helped by the high temperatures that allow for early ripening in spring and late ripening in the autumn. On the other hand, there are also substantial challenges. Agriculture depends entirely on artificial irrigation, and large amounts of water are needed to sluice the salty soil. The harsh summers increase evaporation and dryness. Exports to Europe have also been adversely affected by BDS activity, forcing the farmers to seek other markets.

Entering route 90 from its intersection with Route 1, one cannot miss the city of Jericho, a sprawling Arab city that includes a large refugee camp.. The archaeologist Kathleen Kenyon believes Jericho to be the oldest city in the world, and she may be correct. 20 levels of continuous civilization have been so far uncovered. Archeologists believe that they have even identified the fallen-down walls of Jericho. In the Roman period, Herod built a magnificent palace here with a series of buildings that helped protect this border against the Parthians to the east.

Opposite Jericho is where the Israelites crossed into the Land of Canaan from the Plains of Moab. The book of Deuteronomy describes the 12 tribes camping on eastern side of the Jordan River and Moshe reviewing the laws of the Torah with the people. These flat plains can be easily seen driving along route 90. The book of Joshua chapters 3 and 4 describes Joshua directing a priestly representative of each tribe to place a stone in the river and to pass through the Jordan River while holding the Ark of the Covenant. The waters, which were heavily swollen from the recent winter rains, parted so that the Israelites could cross on dry land between the town of Adam in the north (in the area of the now non-functioning Adam Bridge) to the Dead Sea. The crossing could have been a length of about 20 miles. The cessation of river flow may well have been due to a collapse of the mud banks of the river, as this phenomenon has been noted in the area by Adam.

After crossing the Jordon, the Israelites travelled about 2 miles north of Jericho to Gilgal, where they set up their base, where all males were circumcised, and where the first Passover in the Land of Israel was celebrated. The current Kibbutz Gilgal is about 10 miles north of Jericho. In 2012, archaeologists reported that they may have located the ancient Gilgal.

There are now 21 Jewish settlements in the Jordan Valley. They were established in the late 1960’s and 1970’s with the encouragement of the Labor government. Their development was based upon the Allon Plan, consisting of two rows of settlements.The first row is on the level terrain by Route 90 and the second is parallel to these settlements along the foothills of the Samarian Hills.

There is a general consensus in Israel that the Jordan Valley will never be relinquished as part of any peace plan, but has to be retained to maintain the security of Israel’s eastern border. In the meantime, in the absence of a peace agreement, there are plans to increase settlement in this area and to expand its highly productive agriculture.

Places of Interest

A Natural-style rock pool overlooking Jericho for swimming

Finding a place to cool down in the Jordan Valley is always a welcomed discovery, since many of the natural water sources are dried up by summer. However, a natural-style rock pool has been built at the base of the mountain adjacent to the community of Mevo'ot Yericho, which overlooks the ancient city of Jericho. This is open to the public at no charge. For more details see the Outdoor Swimming section.

Qasr el Yahud - for all faiths﻿

Qasr el Yehud is one of the few places where Israelis can see the River Jordan close up. But don’t be too disappointed!In ancient and Biblical times, the Jordan River, fed by rain and snow melt from Mt. Hermon, may have been about a mile wide. You can appreciate this from the wide secondary valley adjacent to the river. But all you can see now is a muddy, lazy, very narrow river. In the 1930’s, a dam was built next to Kibbutz Degania at the southern edge of Lake Kineret, and Jordan and Israel diverted waters from the river, primarily for agriculture use.This led to a 98% decrease of water flow into the river.

It was in this area that the Children of Israel crossed the Jordan from Moab into the Holy Land. According to Christian tradition, this is also the site where Jesus was baptized by John as told in the New Testament, and it now functions as a Christian baptismal site. The site is run by the Israeli Ministry of Tourism as an Israeli National Park. The other side of the Jordan is also a baptismal site, but don’t swim over to the other side. You just might get arrested by the Jordanians!

Directions: Enter into Waze “Qasr el Yahud” Shortly after leaving the intersection with route 1, take the turn off of route 90 on the right to Qasr el Yahud. The building on your right is the fortified monastery of St. John. You can also see ruins of churches from the 5th and 6th century AD.Continue until you come to the parking lot.

The Oren Farm in Netiv HaGedud

The farm offers insights into the life of an agricultural family in the Jordan Valley. Argan oil, which is derived from nuts of the Argan tree, is manufactured and sold here. This oil is said to have very healthful properties, particularly in relation to the skin, and is used in prestige anti-aging creams. A short movie is shown and there are refreshments.There is an admission charge. Call Silvi Oren at 054 232 6116 to book your visit.

Directions: Enter into Waze “משק אורן “ and click on any of the 3 entries that appear. Shortly after Jericho, turn left from Route 90 into the turning for Gilgal and Netiv Hgdud.

The Jordan Valley Monument

This monument, which looks like a giant anti-aircraft gun pointing to the sky was designed by the artist Yigal Turmakin and constructed from old parts of armored vehicles, tanks and guns. It is a memorial to Israeli soldiers who died in the area, particularly those who died in as a result of the period known as the “period of pursuits”.Between 1967-70 many attempts were made by Arab terrorists to infiltrate into Israel from Jordan, and a number of soldiers and commanders were killed or wounded in battle. This area was called “land of pursuit” because the IDF pursued the infiltrators to prevent terrorist attacks deeper into Israel. A list of over 400 soldiers killed in attacks is etched in stone next to the monument.

Within the adjoining park are plaques with the names of the 21 communities established here. Some of these names are of soldiers killed in the area (such as Argamon, an acronym of 2 commanders), and others Biblical names (Gilgal, Patzael, and Gitit).

Enter into Waze “Habika Memorial”. The turning off route 90 is shortly after Tzomet P’zael and route 505, and shortly before the Delek gas station at Mifgash Habika.The first gate is usually locked but continue to the second gate and this route will lead you up to the monument on the top of the hill.

Sartaba

Sartaba is a pointed mountain steeped in history. During the Second Temple period, witnesses would come to the Temple to give testimony regarding the New Moon. To notify the rest of the country, and also Jews living in Babylon, torches were lit from the Mount of Olives and along a string of high mountains. Sartaba was the first location after the Mount of Olives. The Jewish calendar is a lunar calendar (although unlike the Moslem calendar it is also adjusted to accord with the seasons), and the date of the new moon was important throughout the diaspora for setting the Jewish holidays. Masua, meaning ‘torch’, is a name of the one of communities that lies below Sartaba. Later in history, the Hasmoneans built a fortress here called Alexandrion. Herod also constructed an opulent fortress in the same era as Masada and Herodion. Herod’s wife Mariamne was imprisoned here before she was murdered, and their two sons, who were killed by Herod on suspicion of rebellion, were also buried here. It is possible to hike up Sartaba to see the remains of the fortress, although this has not been excavated yet. However, this needs to be coordinated with the army.

Not quite the river that Jesus was baptized in. It's now more like a stream. That's the country of Jordan on the other side.

If you're getting rather warm in the Jordan Valley, this natural-style pool in Ma'alot Yericho is a good place to cool down in. It's open to the public at no charge.