Miso For Soups, Salads, Even Frosting

October 24, 2002|By Ken Bergeron

Traditionally, the lighter sweet varieties of miso are used in the warmer months, and the darker, richer styles are better suited to the cooler times of the year. Here are some of the varieties of miso:

* Sweet white miso, known by its Japanese name of shiromiso,has a mild flavor and, for those unfamiliar with miso, is a good starter. Those who dine in Japanese restaurants will be familiar with this type, used to flavor miso soup. This variety is usually aged for the shortest amount of time and has the lowest salt content. The subtle and sweet flavor is good in many Western-style recipes that call for a cheese-like flavor. It works as a background taste in recipes such as Spinach Pecan Pesto, Sea Czar Salad Dressing and even in frosting.

* Chickpea miso is a sweet, light miso made with brown rice and chickpeas. It can be used in the same way as sweet white miso.

* Red miso, or akamiso, a soy- and rice-based miso aged for two to three years, is saltier and fuller-flavored. Its unique flavor is a bit like chocolate.

* Hatcho miso, reputed to be the most medicinal style, is made from soybeans or with barley or barley flour and aged up to 5 years. Because it is the strongest flavored of the miso varieties, novices may want to work their way up to this taste sensation. The chocolate analogy also applies to this miso, with its thick texture and deep color.

* Azuki bean miso, a specialty of South River Miso Co., is made with the small red azuki beans, prized for their nutritional and healing properties in Asian medicine, and brown rice. This is a delicious all-around miso, which will work in most recipes.

* Three-year aged miso varieties from South River Miso Co. include Three Year Barley, Hearty Brown Rice, Chickpea Barley and Black Soy Barley. Their richness and complexity is easily appreciated upon tasting.

Miso is best stored in the refrigerator, where it will continue to age and deepen in flavor and color. After several months in the back of the cooler, white miso will begin to be less sweet and brown, while red miso will turn the color of dark chocolate and be reminiscent of that flavor.