It's imported from Ohio, of all places. But this restaurant set on the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard-a light-house-like wine bar detached from the dining room-tavern complex-is well-larded with Southwestern kitsch. Fake fur on chairs made of rough-hewn sticks. Whole aspen logs dangling from the ceiling. Pussy willows for table décor. A bucking horse set in ice. Prime steaks? Wood-fired and fair. Fish? Better, especially the trout and tuna. Strangely, there is not game. Yet. Won't be long before the quail and elk flock and herd, or at least it better not be. Blue Kitchen is the best culinary experiment yet on the Rockwall shoreline.

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