I couldn't figure out how to limit the button travel though, as the levers and keys together only just fit the aperture in the keyboard, leaving no room for padding, until they were fully inside, and the buttons located in their holes.Sir John

have you not seen the photos of button limiting- the easier way- sir John? please don't cut the original fingerboard I can send you a few if you wish just to save that keyboard and are you going to tune it your self or send it to your trusted tuner ? if you are planing to send it for tuning ,any of the tuners will be able to limit the buttons for you, won't cost much.

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I had seen the illustration of the Theo method, but had misunderstood the instructions. Now I know where to place the piece of wood, I shall sort it, tout suite.As to tuning, it has C/F reeds in it at the moment, and I have ordered a set of ready tuned (sic) G/C to put in their place. I have a C/F Liliput, and am restoring a C/F Club I as well. So have no need of another C/F box. I'm sure the reeds will find a home eventually. I also have another C/F, the style with the wreaths top and bottom on the front, and the metal faced keyboard, that is my next project. Not intending to keep it, but it will do for practicing on. (Going to tackle retaping the bellows on that one)No chance of my getting bored this winter

I also have another C/F, the style with the wreaths top and bottom on the front, and the metal faced keyboard, that is my next project. Not intending to keep it, but it will do for practicing on. (Going to tackle retaping the bellows on that one)No chance of my getting bored this winter

You might not be intending to keep it but, if it's fettled well, you may find you do. Those 3515s are the best (and were the most expensive) small 2-voice (and 3-voice!) boxes that Hohner ever made - and I'm not alone in thinking that...

The only 2-row Hohner I have as a "keeper" is one of them that Nils Nielsen converted (from C/C#) to C#/D for me years ago, and it's a mighty little box!!!

You could do what Triskel's box has ( a removable panel) to limit the travel if you don't do the strip of wood. Or do similar on the back ( what I would suggest) versus taking a cut off of the back in which you would have to add back the amount you remove, I think. I did a similar to my 1040 finger bd. which looks like yours except I had to make a panel on the front because it was missing wood between the buttons. I'm pretty sure you could do this on the back leaving the edges and the top of finger bd as is.

Picture of what I did here, I did this with a router. I made a template of the exact size I wanted and use a flush cutting bit to remove unwanted area, then cut a piece to fit on a table saw and rounded the radius needed by hand.http://forum.melodeon.net/index.php/topic,16508.60.html#lastPostI also posted an attachment, if it shows up.

I also have another C/F, the style with the wreaths top and bottom on the front, and the metal faced keyboard, that is my next project. Not intending to keep it, but it will do for practicing on. (Going to tackle retaping the bellows on that one)No chance of my getting bored this winter

You might not be intending to keep it but, if it's fettled well, you may find you do. Those 3515s are the best (and were the most expensive) small 2-voice (and 3-voice!) boxes that Hohner ever made - and I'm not alone in thinking that...

The only 2-row Hohner I have as a "keeper" is one of them that Nils Nielsen converted (from C/C#) to C#/D for me years ago, and it's a mighty little box!!!

I recently acquired a similar box in A/D from Portugal and have just had the reeds fettled by Theo who has done a wonderful job on them, its now quite the LOUDEST box I've ever owned particularly the bass end !! with a glorious rich sound, and so easy to play. its definitely one of the best old boxes Ive ever owned, and one I shall not part with.

Yes it seems to be characteristic of these early A/D models. I have an early pressed wood in those keys too. The model with the wooden grille, and the decorated bass cover, sometimes known as the Marca Registrada model, on German Ebay. It too is very loud indeed.

Well, I'm sad to report, that now the festive season has finished, and I have had time to get back to this project, that I have discovered the source of the leaks. They are both on the corners of my new bellows, where they are glued to the frame. I have emailed Igor, and await his response, but in the meantime, I am not very pleased.

Well, I'm sad to report, that now the festive season has finished, and I have had time to get back to this project, that I have discovered the source of the leaks. They are both on the corners of my new bellows, where they are glued to the frame.

You should be able to work some dilute PVA glue into the leaky areas, using a thin blunt blade or a small artists' paint brush. Try a 50/50 solution of PVA woodworking glue and cold water. The diluted glue will travel into any gaps by capillary action better than undiluted, more viscous, glue. Remove the bellows from the instrument first.

After adding the glue, clamp the bellows to the frame in the area you've worked on, just moderate force; not too hard. Wipe up any excess glue which oozes out with a damp cloth before it has had a chance to set fully.

Once it's dry, reassemble and test for leaks. Any leakage should be much reduced, if not completely cured, but if there are any remaining gaps/leaks, just repeat the process.

Right folks, thanks for the input. I injected via syringe, a 50/50 mix of PVA and water, mopped off the excess, and put a board and a weight on the bellows. Today all seems to be tacketty boots. Fingers crossed. I also piped a bit of the mix into the inside of the corners too, where they join the frame.

Right folks, thanks for the input. I injected via syringe, a 50/50 mix of PVA and water, mopped off the excess, and put a board and a weight on the bellows. Today all seems to be tacketty boots. Fingers crossed. I also piped a bit of the mix into the inside of the corners too, where they join the frame.