MODELING OP ENERGY TRANSFER AND UNDERTOW IN THE SURF ZONE

Akio Okayasu, Akira Watanabe, Masahiko Isobe

Abstract

A model is presented to describe accurately the energy transfer under breaking waves. In the model, the energy of organized large vortexes as well as those of wave-induced motion and turbulence is taken into account. The model allows to estimate the dissipation rate and distribution of energy, and then the cross-shore two-dimensional distribution of an undertow. The applicability of the model is confirmed by laboratory experiments.