Making Iflord Warmtone, Warmer

Thread Tools

Started printing some of my sexworker images on the 16x20 Ilford Warmtone FB paper (from a 8x10 tri-x neg). I initially tried Ilfords own Warm Tone developer diluted 1/9 for 4 minutes. I toned the image in Selenium 1/10 for 2 minutes.

I ended up with a only slightly warm image. I want a warmer tone without resorting to some kind of brown toner. I want to acheive a warmer tone with a developer/selenium combo. Any suggestions on a developer that might help me get a warmer tone with this paper? How will different Selenium dillusions and times affect the paper?

I use a developer I mix myself called GAF 135 and have always liked the warmth it gives me. ANother way to warm up an image is to add a bit of Potassium Bromide as a restrainer.

Likely the biggest gain you will realize will come from length of time in developer. If you increase your exposure so that the image is correct with around 60 secs. in developer the image tone will warm considerably.

This seems counter-intuitive, but I've had good results from using Ilford WT in a normal strength mix of Edwal Ultra Black or Ilford (Harman) cool tone developer. Yes, these are cold tone developers, both. Then tone in very warm (28c) Kodak selenium toner mixed 1+9. The changeover to warm tone in the selenium is remarkable and produces a beautiful print to my eyes.

Started printing some of my sexworker images on the 16x20 Ilford Warmtone FB paper (from a 8x10 tri-x neg). I initially tried Ilfords own Warm Tone developer diluted 1/9 for 4 minutes. I toned the image in Selenium 1/10 for 2 minutes.

I ended up with a only slightly warm image. I want a warmer tone without resorting to some kind of brown toner. I want to acheive a warmer tone with a developer/selenium combo. Any suggestions on a developer that might help me get a warmer tone with this paper? How will different Selenium dillusions and times affect the paper?

If you overdevelop the prints the tones get much colder, 4 minutes sounds rather excessive. Ilford give times of 90 sends to 5 minutes to give control over the warmth, but you need the shortest possible time to get the maximum warmth.

As times can sometimes be too short (some papers develop faster than others, under 60 seconds) it is often better to dilute as I said before - the dilution requires a longer dev time. Papers differ I've yet to use the Ilford Warmtone paper.

Try developing for 90 seconds, it will require slightly longer exposures but you should get very much warmer prints.

I was wondering pretty much the same thing a few weeks ago. I had just started printing with Ilford WT paper in WT developer and was concerned that I just wasn't seeing the effect I wanted. Well, last night I was sorting some prints and was surprised just how warm that paper/dev combination actually is. I suppose it might have been a clue when I gave a print to a friend to complete a series begun some time ago and the response was, "What happened? Why is it so brown? )"

Cheers,

Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada

Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...

Thats why I love this site, so much knowledge here, so many people willing to help. I have a week to work on this print so will try several of the suggestions. Thanks very much folks...got to print this post and put it up on my darkroom wall.

I've found selenium toning warmtone paper gives quite a profound effect. I use fotospeed selenimum toner at about 1+7 ish, a few minutes and the prints are very brown on Ilford WT paper (temperature dependent - needs longer if it's cool). The effect on stadard multigrade is to make them cooler and slightly purplish I've found.

I use Neutol WA with MG-WT and it gives a strong warm tone, but I don't selenium tone so can't say what happens to it in selenium but the Neutol WA is very long lasting and economical. More dilution = warmer tone (but longer dev time as you would expect).

FWIW, using Dektol or Ilford Multigrade, I have found that the glossy version of Ilford Warmtone, while one of my favorite papers, is not really very warm at all; just a little creamy in the whites, and extremely slightly warm on the silver; not enough to notice unless put next to a "regular" print. This extreme subtlety is one of the reasons that I love the paper so much, though its price is ridiculous to me. I only use it for certain pix because it is so expensive. The matte version shows much more warmth (brown). I have also found that the WT glossy goes to a pretty extreme burgundy-purple when toned to the max in KRST. It seems colder after the selenium, due to the purplish tint...or a weird cross between cold and warm. Reminds me a lot of some reject prints I have seen by Stephen Berkman, made using the salt printing process. Looks a lot like the color of the salt print on this Webpage, though notably more purple: http://images.google.com/imgres?img...firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=N.

Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2009

2F/2F

"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

Not strictly true, the selenium is causing a colour shift towards red & also slight intensification, but unless the image is already warm-toned from the developer there will be less of a colour shift.

Photographers like Thomas Joshua Cooper & Olivia Parker use the effects of selenium toning to the maximum.

Ian

Click to expand...

Not strictly true, the selenium will cause different effects with different papers and different developers. FWIW with this paper in my darkroom, LPD and extended KRST I can get it to match Polywarmtone (almost, in tone, but it isn't the same paper by any stretch. I spent a lot of time looking for a Polywarmtone replacement). Decidedly warm, not red. There won't be a definitive found because toning and tones isn't a world that clarifies in an easy way. FWIW with this paper I think there is a good chance that in this instance the OP will find selenium toning to be the key.

Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2009

When you are dead, you don't know you are dead. All of the pain is felt by others. The same thing happens when you are stupid.

I'm another voter for over exposing and under developing (either using time or dilution) to get very warm tones on this paper. Using Ilford Bromophen gives a richer browny tone than the Harman Warmtone to my eye. I use bromophen at 1:5 ish at around 22-24 deg and 2 minute devlopment time if I want warm.

This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. If you have a Photrio account, please log in (and select 'stay logged in') to prevent recurrence of this notice.