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KUDI01ILBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for KUDI01ILBL6 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Worn dishrack wheel mount

This wheel mount broke from normal use and made the upper dish rack disconnect from the sliding arm that extends it outside the dishwasher body so that you can fill it. The part was delivered quickly and was easy to install using just a screwdriver to loosen the retainer clip on the end of the extension slide. Once the retainer clip was removed, the new part was slid into place and clipped onto the rack. The install was complete.

The wheel mount had broken so that the wheel was disconnected from the mount on the upper rack, making the rack unstable.

I had to fiddle with the mount a bit to get it on the rack properly. Then I pulled back slightly on the inner part of the end piece of the track while also pulling the top of the piece back and released the inner tip of the piece, allowing the end piece to be removed. I placed the new wheel in the track and replaced the end piece.

Super easy and a small fraction of what a repairman had told me the part would cost.

Replaced Hinge Link

Pulled dishwasher from under counter, attached link to spring, hooked spring back into frame/chassis, threaded link through pulleys, attached other end of link onto door, reinstalled dishwasher under counter. All's well. Note-I purchased an extra link anticipating that the other one will fail. They're cheap enough.

Dishes on top rack of dishwasher were not being cleaned.

1) Remove top and bottom dish baskets from the dishwasher, this will give you room to work. To remove top basket there are clips at the end of the slide rails.2) Remove lower spray arm by unscrewing plastic screw, it should only be hand tight.3) In order to remove the strainer cover, you will need to remove the plastic tube that takes water to the middle and top spray arms. Unclip this tube from the top and middle clips and then work it out of the strainer assembly tube. Now you should be able to remove the tube at the bottom of the dishwasher by unscrewing it 1/4 turn.4) Remove the strainer cover by unscrewing the 4 Torqs screws.5) You will now see two smaller torqs screws that hold the hold the Chopper Assembly cover down. Take these two screws out and remove the two piece cover.6) Pull out the broken Chopper Assembly, make sure you get all the pieces!7) Install the new Chopper Assembly. Make sure that you install the Assembly with the small part of the screen towards the bottom of the housing. Also make sure you compress the spring as you install the part. I used a small pair of neddle nose pliers to compress the spring behind the screen in order to install the chopper assembly.8) Put everything back together and make sure it works!

Controller board replacement

Simple task - remove the front door cover to expose the cover for the control panel which is then also removed. Be sure electricity is disconnected from the appliance, then simply remove the old control board (remove the quick-connect wire harness) and slide the replacement board back in. Reconnect wiring harness, replace cover and door panel, then turn-on electricy. NOTE - I suggest you shut off power at the breaker panel vs. disconnected the direct wiring at the appliance. The reason for this is because the new controller board could be damaged in the process of connecting the wires and any sparking that would take place when working with hot wiring.

Rather than remove the pump assembly - as an earlier post had done - I pulled the entire dishwasher out and laid it down on the floor. This allowed easy, direct access to the motor (that was the hard, messy part). From this point it was easy. Unplug the wiring, remove the retaining bolt, rotate the motor off the mounting brackets and pull it out. Then put the new one in. That was the easy part (about 15 minutes). The entire job took 2-and-a-half hours, most of which was taken in disconnecting, cleaning up and reconnecting the dishwasher. It's much quieter now.

Door spring link broken

1. Open the dishwasher and remove the two plastic grommets about halfway down on either side of the opening. Then remove the two screws under the grommets.

2. Remove the kick plate under the door. May have to lower unit by turning the feet using the adjustable wrench.

3. Make sure you have enough slack in the water input line and electrical wiring that you can pull the dishwasher out about 12 inches or more.

4. There is a spring and nylon rope link on both sides of the unit. Probably just one link is broken, but the replacement comes with two, so you can replace both or save one as a spare. Look at the good side and it should be pretty self explanatory how it attaches. I found it easiest to first thread the link around the lower pulley, then attach the link to the spring, then spring to the rear support, then the link to the door.

5. Reverse (2 to 1) to reinstall the dishwasher.

The door would drop open when it was released

This was the second time I had this problem so I knew the symptoms and remedy. The tools needed were two nut drivers a ¼” and 5/16” along with a flat pry bar and Phillips screw driver. I started by removing the lower front panel by removing the two ¼” screws on either side. The lower panel will lift up and then can be removed by pulling on the bottom. There is a flat sheet metal piece behind the front panel with insulation that can be removed very easily along with the front panel. When the front panel is removed it exposes the front legs that may need to be dropped to let you lift the dishwasher over the tile (if you have ceramic tiles). The next step would be to remove any ties to the counter top if it is attached. Mine were attached by the two straps on either side with Phillips screws. After the top is free, lower the front legs by lifting the dishwasher with the flat pry bar and threading the legs up into their holders. With the legs lifted the dishwasher can be pulled out to expose the tension springs located along the sides at the very bottom. Chances are the ropes are broken off the plastic holders that fit over the door hooks. Remove the plastic guides by removing the 5/16” nut from the middle of the lower roller. Remember to note which hole the screw is coming from this also sets the tension for how fast or slowly the door drops. Placing the nut closer to the front will drop the door slowly and toward the back will drop the door more quickly. I placed mine in the middle hole. When the plastic guides are removed attach the nylon pope to the spring and attach to the back of the dishwasher. There is a hole located on a flat piece of sheet metal the spring will attach to at the back of the dishwasher (if it is broken). Check the other side if it is still in tact. With the spring in place weave the rope around the plastic guides then pull the springs to help get the plastic end over the door hook located at the bottom of the door. Repeat this operation for the other side (kit has a both sides covered) and reinstall dishwasher in cabinet.Steps1) Remove front panel (1/4” nut)2) Release Dishwasher from Cabinet 3) Lower front legs 4) Pull Dishwasher out from under Cabinet5) Remove Rope Guide (5/16” nut)6) Install new Rope Guide (Supplied in Kit)7) Attach new rope to Spring and attach spring to dishwasher8) Weave rope through rope guide9) With door closed pull spring to relieve tension so rope can be attached to door10) Repeat for other side (Kit has both sides)

I went on the internet and found a pdf file with the Kitchenaid dishwasher repair manual for my model. One of the hardest parts of the job was convincing myself that I could do the job. When you're young, you just go out and buy a new dishwasher and tell yourself, "it's only money, we'll make more." When you're over 50, you tell yourself, "I can fix this. It will mean I get to retire a week sooner if I don't spend another $700 for a new dishwasher."

In hindsight, I could have done this job (replace the motor) in about 30 minutes. 1) Turn off electrical breaker in basement. 2) slide out dishwasher. 3) disconnect water supply. 4) use old towels to soak up any water still in the tub. 5) turn dishwasher on it's side. 6) unhook the wire harness plug from the motor, squeeze with fingers to unhook. 7) unbolt motor, 1 bolt. 8) turn motor counterclockwise, 1/4 turn. 9) pull motor out from sump, requires some force. 10) install new motor, but use some rinse aid to lubricate the rubber seal on it. Instead I did things the hard way and took the whole darn machine apart!!! See my story below.

I was surprised at how simple the design was and how few parts there really were inside the dishwasher. I found the pdf repair manual very useful, and I also found some repair videos on line. One thing they may or may not tell you - clean the parts well and lubricate the gaskets with some 'rinse aid' liquid when you put the machine back together. Also, it might help you to take a few pictures with a digital camera before you take things apart - that might help you remember how things go back together. Take close up pictures and use a treble light to illuminate the area when you're taking a picture.

The new motor was the ticket to fixing the loud noise. I was worried because the part cost $150. Before I ordered a new motor, I hooked up the old motor to electricity on my work bench and was able to recreate the really loud noise - so I was pretty sure that the new motor would eliminate the problem. It was very easy to install the new motor, only one bolt holds it in place. I did need to disassemble several parts to get to it though. Have no fear. One thing I did was mark the electric leads that went to the small pump with red and black sharpie markers so I could easily see which terminals to plug them back onto.

After reassembling the whole dishwasher with a new motor and testing the dishwasher for leaks by pouring a couple pitchers of water into it - I put the beast back under the counter (hooking it back up to the water supply line, the drain pipe to the garbage disposal and finally the electric supply). Then I ran it and water gushed out the bottom.

This whole job should have been easy, but things never go easy for me. Maybe if I would have lubricated the old sump gasket with rinse aid it would have sealed properly when I reinstalled it. Maybe if I would have cleaned the old sump gasket and the bottom of the tub really thoroughly things would have sealed right. But I didn't - so it leaked. I went ahead and bought a new sump gasket ($30 and had a few more days of waiting and self-doubt and having the dishwasher broken down). One the gasket came, I went through the entire uninstall, disassembly, reassembly and reinstall process AGAIN!!! This time with the new clean sump gasket and thoroughly cleaned surfaces. I also lubricated the gasket with rinse aid before installation. NO LEAKS! Job finished. Lessons learned. Doing it the first time was pretty tough though. Good luck! Get a helper for moral support and picture taking!

Ordered new part(s), parts arrived in a few days, removed the 6 screws holding the control panel cover onto the dishwasher door (requires a torx driver), removed control panel cover (carefully, so as not to break any wires on the wiring harness from the door to the computer board), unscrewed/removed door switch, popped off the the two plastic brackets holding the door handle assembly (door handle, latch bracket, door latch actuator, spring) to the front door, removed the broken handle, installed the new handle, reversed steps, done. Works like a champ.

The one thing I did do at the same time is notice that there's only one return spring for the door handle (even though both the handle and latch bracket have hooks for springs on both sides. I suspect this is what caused the door handle to break in the first place (the spring causes uneven tension on the handle, which over time caused the arms on the handle to catch and break). So I also ordered a second spring, and when I attached the new door handle to the latch bracket assembly I also installed return springs on both sides. With even tension, the handle doesn't tend to twist when it raises and lowers the latch, so hopefully won't break again. Just a thought while you have the unit off the dishwasher.

Stationary Upper Dishrack Wheel Mounts Broken

Each Molded one-piece plastic upper dishrack wheel mount includes a tiny plastic spring clip which hold the mount in place on the upper dish washer rack. These clips become dry and britle over time and snap off.Because they are molded in the wheel mount itself you have to replace the entire wheel mount assembly

After removing our dishwasher from storage and installing it, the inlet valve was leaking.

After removing the kickplate covers from the bottom front of the dishwasher by removing the 2 screws that attached the covers I determined the inlet valve was leaking, I turned of the water and disconnected the electricity from the dishwasher.I rolled the dishwasher from under the counter and removed the water supply line from the elbow at the bottom of the dishwasher inlet valve with an adjustable wrench. We then set the dishwasher on its back to gain easy access to the inlet valve.To remove the inlet valve, Using a philips head screwdriver I removed the one screw holding the bracket and the valve was loose from the dishwasher. Then, two wires were removed from the valve by sliding the clips from the tabs on the valve. The hose that carries the water to the dishwasher was removed by squeezing the clamp with pliers and sliding it onto the hose and pulling the hose from the nipple.With the valve removed from the dishwasher, the elbow for the supply line can be removed from the bottom of the old valve and installed on the new valve using teflon tape to seal the connection.The new inlet valve was then installed by reversing the procedure.Checked to make sure there are no leaks and the dishwasher was good as new.

So one day passing the dishwasher while it was running, I noticed a rather pungent burning smell. Yikes, I shut it off!I took apart the pump housing at the bottom inside the dishwasher, expecting to find some kids toy plastic bit had got caught and had jammed the motor or something. But nothing there, and my dishwasher has a little screen to keep just such things from getting to the pump anyway. Hmmm.So, ran the dishwasher again, seemed ok now.A week later, same thing, burning smell. Pull it apart again, but no sign of trouble. But I know something is up, so I pull the kickplate and have a look underneath... Way at the back I see a red wire that looks a little melted, but it's hard to tell, so I pull the whole dishwasher out. Sure enough, one of the heater wires is melted and burned, and the plastic locknut holding that side of the heater is badly scorched. Looks like a little electrical fire, I'm lucky it didn't get out of hand!The heater still tests ok with an ohmeter, but I don't trust it now - order the heater and replacement locknut and washers. Didn't need to order washers, they come with the heater, oh well.Heater removal and replacement is very straight forward, but I added some high-temp gasket silicone sealant (Ultra Blue) around the seals as I think the original problem may have ben a bit of water leakage causing a short.Took about an hour to pull the dishwasher out, remove the heater and install the new one, put a new terminal on the heater wire, and put the whole thing back under the counter.Working great now. But not a problem I expected to have with a 2-year-old dishwasher!

the upper rack wheels had crumbled

the parts only took a few days to arrive, and it took me about 2 minutes to install them-no tools were required. i took out the end plugs from the slider bars, slipped out the old broken wheel parts, snapped on the new ones, slid the upper rack into the slider assembly, popped the end plugs back into place and VOILA!!

aside from the expense of the parts- much better to go this route rather than hire a repair guy to do it!!