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enGlassing - Petrel Build - E9https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/glassing-petrel-build-e9
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sat, 05/23/2020 - 16:18</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Today I fiberglass. In this video I talk about the cleaning up stain bleed-through and then get fiberglassing. I discuss the time line of glassing and what I use for fill coat</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Makita Hand-Held Belt Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk">https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Finish Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY">https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Agressive Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf">https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf</a></li>
<li>Festool Contour Pad: <a href="https://amzn.to/2GYw43a">https://amzn.to/2GYw43a</a></li>
<li>Mirka Bendable Long Board: <a href="https://amzn.to/378MYGR">https://amzn.to/378MYGR</a></li>
<li>Mirka Abranet Sanding Mesh: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA">https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Other Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Solvent Bottle: <a href="https://amzn.to/2woRmp5">https://amzn.to/2woRmp5</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body"><br />
hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks<br />
workshop I'm Nick Schade in this bill I'm<br />
working on a petrel love stripped old<br />
petrol which is a 17 foot<br />
high-performance sea kayak and building<br />
this for a customer if you are just<br />
tuning into this series<br />
this build is something I actually did<br />
over a year ago so this footage is a<br />
little bit old I'm just now getting<br />
around to editing it and I've just<br />
stained the boat and I'm now ready to<br />
fiberglass so let's watch how I did that<br />
so it's 9:00 in the morning on glass and<br />
day and I've got the heat cranked up<br />
it's starting to warm up in here I need<br />
to roll out the glass and you know get<br />
ready to apply some epoxy before I can<br />
do that there's a few places on my<br />
accent strips here where I get a little<br />
bit of bleed in under the tape I want to<br />
clean that up I'm really pleased with<br />
how the CA glue resists worked on the<br />
accent stripes on the deck those came<br />
out perfect just a tape alone here on<br />
the hull was not bad you know most of it<br />
is perfectly clean but there's a few<br />
places was a little bleed through think<br />
maybe in the future I will use the CA<br />
glue on the whole length I just didn't<br />
feel like doing that given the length of<br />
the scene there but a little bit of prep<br />
work and then I'll be glassing so here I<br />
have a little bit of bleed through here<br />
I have a little chisel that I put a<br />
little bit of sandpaper on it doesn't<br />
look like much it's a little bit 120<br />
grit sandpaper it's about the width of<br />
the strip this bleed through is very<br />
thin it doesn't take much to actually<br />
get rid of it so I'm just going to come<br />
here the sandpaper<br />
doesn't make it go away completely but<br />
it really feeds it down so we'll be<br />
really unnoticeable<br />
is around 10:30 now<br />
I don't have to get everything ready<br />
the hole first and then the deck<br />
it's just past 11:30 depth the hull and<br />
the deck done and the temperature in<br />
here is about 80 degrees I'm not sure<br />
what that is<br />
Celsius but pretty warm it's wet out<br />
nicely everything looks good they go to<br />
crunch up and so I have a nice matte<br />
finish I don't want it to look glassy<br />
she's got a few glossy spots but that's<br />
okay it's all looking good I will<br />
probably come back right after lunch and<br />
give this a fill cup so it's just about<br />
2 o'clock now so the epoxies had a<br />
couple hours secure it's a little bit<br />
harder than it needs to be but it's<br />
still soft I'm going to put fill coats<br />
and both the hull on the deck but the<br />
hull is just going to get a light-filled<br />
coat I'm going to put another layer of<br />
glass on it later after it put put the<br />
deck and Hall together and get the stems<br />
on put another layer of glass on on the<br />
deck I'm going to give it a full fill<br />
coat actually trying to bury the weed I<br />
will spread some epoxy on the hall and<br />
then squeegee it off and with the deck I<br />
will brush it on heavy and triangle a<br />
nice levels coat on let's just get to it<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Applause]<br />
looks like the camera stopped recording<br />
about 10 minutes ago maybe but got the<br />
full cone over the whole deck I hit it<br />
with the blowtorch to pop bubbles level<br />
it out nicely the hall has a squeegee<br />
down on bilko again this is just to<br />
start to fill the weave so when I put<br />
the next coat of cloth on I can sand it<br />
without sanding into the glass otherwise<br />
after I squeegeed it to a matte finish<br />
there's deep pores in between the fibers<br />
of the yarns that you can't get to with<br />
the sandpaper and so when you go to D<br />
closet and get a better mechanical bond<br />
you can't sand it sufficiently to really<br />
get them you know it's fine but not as<br />
good as it could be so by putting this<br />
spill coat on I have filled down into<br />
the pores in the texture I might just<br />
touch the top of the wheel but I won't<br />
be sanding down just a note here<br />
I used web system 105 resin and 207<br />
hardener for the fill coat I find it<br />
levels better than mas that I used to<br />
wet out the cloth I found the mas West<br />
out the cloth really nicely doesn't have<br />
a lot of smell and when I go to do the<br />
fill Co I just find the 207 works a<br />
little bit better in that application<br />
so that's an overview of the<br />
fiberglassing process to recap I rolled<br />
out the cloth I smoothed out the<br />
wrinkles pulling on the cloth a little<br />
bit and brushing it down with a chip<br />
brush and then I wet out the cloth using<br />
mas low viscosity epoxy resin I let that<br />
set up for a little while<br />
and then I applied a Philco on the hull<br />
I applied a sort of light fill coat that<br />
I squeegeed on just enough to fill up<br />
the pores of the texture of the fabric<br />
and on the deck I did a heavy fill coat<br />
where I really tried to fill it up<br />
completely in in the step towards the<br />
final finish so for the wet out I used<br />
an MAS epoxy some call it mas and on the<br />
fill coat I use West's systems using the<br />
207 hardener with the 105 resin I find<br />
the MAS wets out the cloth more easily<br />
and doesn't smell much I used to working<br />
with it and does a beautiful job but I<br />
find for the fill coats mas works fine<br />
if that's what you got use it it works<br />
great but the west's system seems to<br />
level out a little bit better makes a<br />
smoother finish which just requires a<br />
little less sanding when it comes time<br />
to do that you know the difference is<br />
minimal but it makes a difference so<br />
that's why I did that so in the next<br />
episode I will work on the combing and<br />
start to clean up the inside you'll see<br />
how far I get again this is a video from<br />
over a year ago I forget what did I even<br />
have in the can so how long the video is<br />
depends on what I've got there so if you<br />
enjoyed this episode and you like seeing<br />
how these boats go together I really<br />
appreciate your support any kind of<br />
support you can provide is really<br />
appreciated just liking this video helps<br />
the exposure of it lets more people see<br />
it in the more<br />
let's see it the more exposure I get and<br />
I can earn more through the ads and you<br />
know it just gets the word out there and<br />
otherwise follow hit subscribe turn on<br />
notifications all that stuff I also have<br />
a patreon page where if you want to<br />
provide some direct support towards<br />
these videos that's an opportunity to do<br />
that there but really what pays for<br />
these videos the most is if you buy<br />
planes or my book I've got two books<br />
actually on the process of strip<br />
building boats one specifically on<br />
building sea kayaks another on generally<br />
about building strip build small boats<br />
and that boat includes the offsets for<br />
this petrel design so if you want to<br />
build one of these petrels that's a<br />
great resource you get the book as 2295<br />
something like that and that includes<br />
all the offsets which are members which<br />
you can graph out and draw out the plans<br />
full size yourself otherwise you go to<br />
my website Gilliam at kayaks calm I've<br />
got full-size plans with this boat and a<br />
lot of other designs there and with<br />
those planes you can take the sheet of<br />
paper glue it to a sheet of half-inch<br />
MDF and cut out around the lines and<br />
you'll have a set of forms to start<br />
building your own boat and you will also<br />
find a lot of my videos there with<br />
descriptions on what's in it above and<br />
beyond the whatever voiceover I did in<br />
the video and there's a lot of<br />
information there about the whole<br />
process of building boats so any support<br />
you can provide is deeply appreciated so<br />
until the next episode again thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling<br />
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Sat, 23 May 2020 20:18:11 +0000nick4189 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/stripping-front-deck-microbootlegger-sport-e24
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Stripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:46</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Adding strips to one side of the front deck.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Read along in my Book</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Music:</p>
<p>Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (<a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</a>) Artist: <a href="http://audionautix.com/">http://audionautix.com/</a></p>
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<div class="panel-body">good morning welcome back to another day<br />
in the Guillemot kayaks boat shop I'm Nick<br />
Schade. today we will be doing more<br />
stripping go figure<br />
I'm getting really close to finishing up<br />
the stripping here today I'll be<br />
primarily working on the front deck the<br />
back deck I'll leave for another day<br />
but I should be able to get mostly up<br />
one side of the front deck you've seen<br />
most of this before so I'm not going to<br />
spend a lot of time talking there's not<br />
too much to say but I'll show where I am<br />
with the cockpit and obviously I don't<br />
need to strip over the cockpit I'm gonna<br />
cut a big hole there in the long run so<br />
no point laying down a bunch of wood<br />
there and trying to make it all fit and<br />
then come back and saw it all out again<br />
[Music]<br />
I put several reference lines on these<br />
forms to help me figure out where things<br />
are happening and as guides for<br />
stripping under here there's some<br />
diagonal lines at this angle that<br />
defines the chine or feature line<br />
between the side of the boat and the<br />
back deck of the boat up here I've got<br />
some slots where the recess of the<br />
calming is going to be over here these<br />
slots also define where the recess of<br />
the calming is going to be and there's a<br />
hole in here that's where the edge of<br />
the recess is going to be we've cut that<br />
hole in there so when I saw through here<br />
I'll just saw right through those forms<br />
and that hole will give clearance for<br />
the saber saw or jigsaw to cut through<br />
there the cockpit is in this area<br />
so I've already stripped beyond the<br />
cockpit here on both sides and so now<br />
the strips can start to get shorter<br />
substantially shorter here I'll probably<br />
bring it a little bit long out into this<br />
area and so as I'm peeling off the tape<br />
just as a to help remind me where I can<br />
go I'll leave this tape on here in other<br />
words the strip will end right before<br />
this tape and so pull all the tape off<br />
so that'll be my guide for how far to<br />
run the next strip<br />
[Music]<br />
now this is where I switch to just doing<br />
one side at a time if I were to run a<br />
strip up here on this side it would end<br />
up hitting this strip and so this is<br />
interfering with getting a tight fit on<br />
that side and so basically this strip<br />
has crossed the center line a little bit<br />
so from here on out I'm just going to<br />
add strips on one side having them<br />
overhang the center line sufficiently<br />
that I can cut them off and trim that<br />
center line to a nice straight line<br />
without having any gaps you may have<br />
noticed that I wasn't stopping to do the<br />
hot melt glue stitches along here you<br />
may even see some places here where the<br />
yellow glue between the strip's does not<br />
appear to be completely dry it's not<br />
completely dry where it squeezed out but<br />
in between the strips where it got<br />
pressed and squeezed tightly together it<br />
stacked up sufficiently but I can take<br />
the tape off as soon as I'm done with<br />
one side I can switch to the other side<br />
and take the tape off and keep on going<br />
however now I'm only going to be working<br />
on one side so I won't have enough time<br />
for that glue to set up between<br />
finishing up one strip and adding the<br />
next strip so I'll end up at this point<br />
starting to add those hot melt glue<br />
stitches as I go that way it can take<br />
the tape off and add a new strip before<br />
that yellow carpenters glue between the<br />
strip's has fully set up<br />
this is a really tight radius up here<br />
which means that it's going to take a<br />
lot of beveling to get a tight seam<br />
between this strip and the next strip<br />
you see this strips at an angle like<br />
this and I'm holding the Robo bevel at<br />
an angle like this that means the angle<br />
between this strip and the next strip is<br />
pretty extreme<br />
all right we're making progress now<br />
I'm gonna break for lunch and continue<br />
on with this afterwards or see how far<br />
we get I think I got to be able to cover<br />
all the way to the centerline today and<br />
the excellent<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
okay I've used up all the strips I set<br />
aside for the side of the boat but I<br />
still have here's the centerline right<br />
here and here's the centerline right<br />
there so the line crosses these strips<br />
right up in there so I've got a little<br />
bit left to go I forget exactly where<br />
the cockpit comes through here I think<br />
it comes right through like this and<br />
basically just kisses this form you know<br />
so if I stuck one more strip there and I<br />
would cover that centerline there but<br />
just to make sure I'm I think I'll put a<br />
couple strips there I know there's not<br />
going to be much showing there there's a<br />
strip here running out to maybe about<br />
there and then mirror image on the other<br />
side so I want to pick some wood that's<br />
going to be similar to what we've got<br />
here and so what I've got is these are<br />
the off cuts from the forward end of the<br />
strips running in so this is strip 26 26<br />
25 24 so here I have strip 24 25 and 26<br />
and again that's the forward end of<br />
these three strips so those I know those<br />
are going to be similar in tone to<br />
what's already here just because they're<br />
part of the same strip but I do have a<br />
little bit of a dark streak running<br />
right through here running up to here<br />
and these are quite light in color they<br />
don't have a whole lot going on so I cut<br />
these strips all off right here and I<br />
have this bundle of strips back here<br />
that are just the off cuts from that by<br />
the way a lot of waste when you're doing<br />
this book matching because all of this<br />
gets cut off and<br />
left but let's see what we have here for<br />
color wise so if I find strip 26 this is<br />
strip 26 it's got some of those same<br />
streaks that we see in here your strip<br />
25 here I'm just looking for some strip<br />
so they're gonna match color wise just<br />
across that center line and I think what<br />
I'll end up doing I run from here back<br />
to here with this strip that's 20 strip<br />
26<br />
likewise strip 25 will have a set of<br />
strips that the tiny little triangle we<br />
see in here will look like it's matching<br />
pretty well with the surrounding strips<br />
I think that's what I'm gonna do is just<br />
put in those two strips so this is strip<br />
26 25 and we'll cut these two strips so<br />
those are the next strips that are gonna<br />
come in here and that should be plenty<br />
to cross that center line<br />
and crossing the center line they're<br />
stuck down now chances are excellent<br />
that none of this strip here will end up<br />
in the finish boat the cockpit will come<br />
up and trim off most of that and it's<br />
likely that is just gonna be a little<br />
bit of this strip showing but now with<br />
that green going on it should be fine so<br />
you know I in the best of all possible<br />
worlds I would have included a couple<br />
more strips to in this bundle to get all<br />
the way there but frankly you know I'm<br />
using two feet of this strip here and<br />
you know there's going to be one<br />
probably less than an inch of this strip<br />
showing here and so it's kind of a waste<br />
of a full length strip to just fill in<br />
that tiny little bit but you know if<br />
we're really trying to maintain the book<br />
match to the bitter end that's what we<br />
could do but nobody's gonna see this<br />
it's gonna be a tiny little sliver there<br />
and if I've got matching from the other<br />
side so I mirror this little piece in<br />
there it's gonna be awesome so that was<br />
pretty quick this morning we started<br />
about down here and you know 1 2 3 4 5 6<br />
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 strips on this side<br />
today that's pretty good progress but I<br />
think it's cool you're starting to see<br />
the pattern come out here I've got this<br />
sort of dark streaks coming down like<br />
this and converging here and when we get<br />
the other side matching that I think<br />
it's really going to look awesome this<br />
is where<br />
all the hard work of trying to figure<br />
out the matching pattern and so forth<br />
starts to pay off and tomorrow when we<br />
get fitted on the other side I think<br />
it's really gonna looks like I had a few<br />
issues that almost threw me off but I<br />
was able to catch them in time and it's<br />
looking awesome<br />
so if you're enjoying and watching this<br />
series please hit subscribe you know if<br />
you've watched all the way through this<br />
video give me a thumbs up give me a like<br />
if you want to give me any more support<br />
go to patreon and the token amount there<br />
is really appreciated<br />
so next episode we will trim down the<br />
center line and start stripping up the<br />
other side and there's going to be an<br />
accent strip going in on that center<br />
line and I haven't exactly figured out<br />
how I'm going to do that but tricky<br />
thing about that is I want the center of<br />
the center line centered on the center<br />
line and if I have a accent strip of a<br />
certain width I need to make sure that I<br />
offset the center line sufficiently by<br />
that with that accent line so it ends up<br />
the center line is centered on the<br />
center line if you're looking forward to<br />
that and it subscribe and until next<br />
episode thanks for watching and happy<br />
paddling<br />
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Sat, 23 May 2020 19:46:06 +0000nick4188 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comPattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/pattern-restoration-microbootlegger-sport-e23
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Pattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:37</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Getting back on track with the book match pattern after discovering a mistake.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Read along in my Book</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
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<p>Oh welcome back to the guillemot kayaks<br />
workshop I'm Nick Schade so yesterday I<br />
discovered that a couple of my strips<br />
were out of sequence in the book match<br />
that was not fun what I ended up doing<br />
was taking my heat gun and softening the<br />
yellow carpenters glue and using a putty<br />
knife and peeling those strips off so I<br />
stripped off the strip's and now I have<br />
taken and taking those strips and lay<br />
them out on my bench with all the other<br />
strips just to check and see what the<br />
sequence really should have been and<br />
what I can do to fix it and it looks<br />
like I had strip 11 from one side<br />
swapped with strip strip 11 from the<br />
other side and that ended up flipping<br />
over the grain and just making things a<br />
little bit out of whack now I've laid<br />
them out<br />
swapped them back where they're supposed<br />
to be and it looks like it's going to<br />
match up just fine so here's the layout<br />
of the strips this is what I did to<br />
check to see what was going on and this<br />
is as I originally had them laid out and<br />
if you look over here here we've got<br />
grain coming in like this and this grain<br />
comes in like this and so there's this<br />
these two strips are sort of mirror<br />
image of each other not a perfect match<br />
but pretty close so this is the<br />
offending strip and over here this is<br />
the offending strip over here so what I<br />
determined was that this strip actually<br />
belongs over here and this strip<br />
actually belongs over here approximately<br />
like this now we've got the dark spot<br />
going like that and grain going like<br />
that and got a little hump here a little<br />
hump here so this is about where it's<br />
supposed to line up and likewise this<br />
one over here everything's oriented the<br />
right way we've got some dark streaks<br />
in various places here that correspond<br />
to what I would expect and we will<br />
notice that right here we have a<br />
mirror-image situation happen again so<br />
this is what I was expecting<br />
when I laid the strips out I matched<br />
them this way as well as this way and so<br />
I expected a mirror image line happening<br />
at some point and so when I saw it on<br />
the boat it didn't shock me initially<br />
when I installed these strips it's when<br />
I went and put the next strip on that I<br />
was getting a double mirror image so I<br />
was getting grain running in a zigzag<br />
that I was saying hey that's not how<br />
it's supposed to be I'm supposed to have<br />
one spot where it mirrors and then<br />
narrowing up against the center line<br />
again but I'm not supposed to end up<br />
with zigzag grain what I'm going to end<br />
up doing is installing this strip on<br />
this side and this strip on this side<br />
I'm just double-checking this and I<br />
think we got it figured out here I'm<br />
just gonna start by taking the glue off<br />
this top edge just a little bit of<br />
residue left over from stripping that<br />
strip off of there and so I'm just going<br />
to lightly plane it<br />
and that just removes that layer glue<br />
[Music]<br />
okay so I'm back to where I was at the<br />
beginning of the day yesterday I've got<br />
these strips glued in place I've put<br />
some hot melt stitches on them because<br />
I'm going to go ahead and add next strip<br />
right on top of it back here behind the<br />
cockpit there's a lot of twist to this<br />
strip and so when I was beveling it it<br />
took a lot of time with the Rolo bevel<br />
to chew away at that upper edge and make<br />
a good tight joint there and now I've<br />
hot melt glue the strips down tight<br />
against the forms there to hold them<br />
there I could have pre twist him with<br />
some heat but it happens over such a<br />
long distance I felt it was easy enough<br />
to just glue them down tight and voila<br />
glue while the hot milk was cooling<br />
because it was under so much stress I<br />
put some bracket clamps on each of the<br />
forms just to hold it while that glue<br />
dries now I should be able to strip all<br />
that stuff off strip off all the tape<br />
and start doubling this strip making it<br />
ready to accept the next<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so this afternoon I did all right<br />
I you know I only got three strips on<br />
but I recovered from the mistake on the<br />
stripping pattern and I think it's<br />
nobody will ever know I ever had an<br />
issue you look pretty sharp I think it's<br />
just coming along nice you know all I<br />
have to do for a little while is keep on<br />
adding strips it's not the most exciting<br />
stuff but you know I think the results<br />
will be worthwhile when the pattern all<br />
comes together I think it's gonna look<br />
sharp so it's kind of fun I'm getting to<br />
the easier part of the stripping I there<br />
was a lot of twist back in here and<br />
having to bevel the full length of the<br />
strip took a while but at this point<br />
we're getting up to the part where it's<br />
just sort of so the next episode will be<br />
more of the same I think I'll probably<br />
get up to the point where I'm just<br />
stripping one side and again I'll strip<br />
across the center line and in<br />
preparation for trimming that back and<br />
stripping in from the other side and<br />
back here at the stern I've started to<br />
get past the marks that show where the<br />
feature line defining the back deck<br />
occurs and so I've started shortening<br />
those strips I'll pretty soon get to the<br />
point where I will have stripped up to<br />
the width of the cockpit and at that<br />
point there's no point running the<br />
strip's past the cockpit I'll just be<br />
working on the front half of the boat<br />
and that will go a lot quicker and so<br />
things should accelerate pretty soon so<br />
if you're sitting through all these<br />
videos I think I deserve a thumbs-up<br />
give me a like if you're watching a<br />
bunch of these videos hit subscribe my<br />
supporters on patreon get access to the<br />
videos a couple days early so until the<br />
next episode thanks for watching and<br />
happy paddling<br />
[Music]</p>
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Sat, 23 May 2020 19:37:04 +0000nick4187 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comStripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/stripping-strips-microbootlegger
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Stripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:30</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>So, I found a couple strips out of sequence. I had to strip off the strips.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Read along in my Book</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
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So yesterday I flipped the boat over and<br />
started stripping on the deck and today<br />
it's just continuing on with stripping<br />
on the deck my goal is to get as far as<br />
I can the one point of interest today is<br />
I will be crossing the back deck shine<br />
line and as I do that I no longer need<br />
to run the strips full length and so<br />
it's just a matter of running them down<br />
as far as needed to cover that shine<br />
line and then lopping them off short so<br />
that's what we'll be working on<br />
as I was working on getting ready to put<br />
the next strip on top of here I noticed<br />
something that didn't look about right<br />
if you notice right here we've got sort<br />
of a mirror image of the grain looks<br />
cool and I was prepared to have that<br />
happen but when I went to put this strip<br />
on now we've got another mirror image so<br />
it's making a v-shape here and that's<br />
not supposed to happen so I took a<br />
little bit of time I stopped everything<br />
took some time to evaluate what's going<br />
on and I'm not exactly sure I figured it<br />
out<br />
exactly what happened but seems that<br />
this strip is swapped so it should<br />
probably be on the other side this is<br />
strip 11 and strip 11 on the other side<br />
should be on this side so they it looks<br />
like they're swapped looking up here at<br />
the bow this is cut off from this end of<br />
strip 11<br />
here's two cut off from the other side<br />
and if you notice here I've got my<br />
original Sharpie marks on here as well<br />
as some pencil marks showing that this<br />
was the top here is the cut offs from<br />
strip 10 strip 10 and there and here's<br />
those Sharpie marks again you look here<br />
and I flip this down there's a Sharpie<br />
marks there and I flip this up there's a<br />
Sharpie marks there so these are<br />
supposed to end up like this<br />
so the Sharpie marks be on the same side<br />
so it looks like somehow these strips<br />
strip 11 get flipped over and swapped<br />
side to side somehow as best as I can<br />
tell so what I'm thinking of doing to<br />
maintain the patter and make sure the<br />
pattern doesn't get messed up is peel<br />
this whole strip 11 off of both sides<br />
and it's not the easiest thing to do but<br />
heat gun should get that off of there<br />
should soften up the yellow carpenters<br />
glue they ought to be able to get that<br />
off of there and then I can end up<br />
flipping them over or swapping side to<br />
side we'll see I'll take some time to<br />
examine it at that point and see which<br />
makes more sense<br />
[Applause]<br />
[Applause]<br />
well I was no fun at all shows what you<br />
can do with a little heat the strip came<br />
off it's pretty clean<br />
first first side I had a little bit more<br />
struggle getting it off have to pay<br />
attention to the grain orientation the<br />
putty knife I was using would tend to<br />
ride up into the grain if I wasn't<br />
paying attention<br />
it'll all go together fine in the end<br />
I'm sure but bit of a hassle I think I'm<br />
going to just call this it for right now<br />
sleep on it a little bit aside exactly<br />
how I'm going to approach the fix I<br />
think it's just a matter of taking this<br />
trip putting it over there and that<br />
strip putting it over here basically<br />
flipping it over and I think it'll work<br />
out fine the one issue I have is this<br />
one I had not yet beveled the top edge<br />
but the other one that I just pulled off<br />
I had beveled the top edge therefore<br />
there's material missing from that strip<br />
so the reason I'm thinking about<br />
flipping it to the other side is that<br />
way the bevel that I have will end up<br />
against the bevel that's existing here I<br />
might end up with a little bit of an<br />
open bevel on the interior but that I<br />
can deal with when I come to it on the<br />
inside so tomorrow will be recovery day<br />
from this I will<br />
I'll put these strips back where they're<br />
supposed to be and hopefully keep on<br />
stripping from there so all that support<br />
stuff likes subscriptions patreon all<br />
that stuff go ahead and do that while<br />
you have a chance and we'll talk to you<br />
again tomorrow and so until then thanks<br />
for watching and happy paddling<br />
</div>
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Sat, 23 May 2020 19:30:39 +0000nick4186 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comApplying Carbon Fiber by Handhttps://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/applying-carbon-fiber-hand
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Applying Carbon Fiber by Hand</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Mon, 04/27/2020 - 13:36</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>During this time of COVID-19 I've thought people stuck in their homes may enjoy a little live entertainment. To that end, I have started doing some livestreams on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GuillemotKayaks/">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/NickSchade">Youtube</a>. The project I'm working on in my shop right now is finishing up a <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/recreational-kayak-tandem/microbootlegger" title="microBootlegger">microBootlegger</a> that was built in a class. The student who won the raffle after the class wanted my to finish the boat and install seats. At this point he just wants one seat, but one of my nice wood ones. He may get another seat from me later on.</p>
<p>In this video I am working on those seats. I carve the wood itself using my CNC machine, after some sanding I reinforce the wood with fabric and epoxy. In this video I am adding Carbon Fiber to the bottom. I will later sand the other side and fiberglass the top.</p>
<p>I intend to more of these livestreams on various subjects, please check out my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/GuillemotKayaks/">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/NickSchade">Youtube</a> channels for more information.</p>
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<p>okay so I don't know how this is working<br />
but hopefully it works well um what I'm<br />
going to be doing today is I'm going to<br />
be making seats like this<br />
I've already carved the wood bit and I<br />
I'm going to be putting carbon fiber on<br />
the back here on the bottom side so I<br />
have several of these all carved ready<br />
to go and look these will this one's<br />
something like that um that's gonna be<br />
what the finished product looks like so<br />
at this point I'm putting carbon fiber<br />
on the bottom I will then sand out the<br />
top and fiberglass the top so we get the<br />
black on the bottom and the clear glass<br />
on the top so that's what we're looking<br />
to make so I have the wood bits here<br />
pretty much ready to go<br />
I've sanded this all out a sheet of<br />
carbon fiber here and we are going to<br />
lay that on the seat<br />
all right and I do have I do have my<br />
iPad over here so it's possible I'll be<br />
able to look over every once in a while<br />
and see if there's any questions being<br />
asked feel free to give it a try if I'm<br />
a little slow in answering your<br />
questions I am going to be a little bit<br />
busy over here but feel free and I<br />
appreciate your questions so if we look<br />
at this piece the carbon-fiber ear wraps<br />
all the way around the back comes up the<br />
middle comes up these leg supports and<br />
to the front one thing you may notice in<br />
order to have that happen meeting in the<br />
front these legs and and I want to get<br />
some carbon fiber down on to that<br />
section there so the carbon fiber will<br />
be coming in on either side here I don't<br />
want a blank spot in here so I'm going<br />
to cut some little tab to fit in there<br />
I'm gonna do that by its cut and so<br />
those will fit somewhere in here what<br />
I've done to make this a little bit<br />
easier to work with is I have what I've<br />
done to make this a little bit easier to<br />
work with is I have a couple boxes here<br />
taped to the seat just so I have a<br />
support and it's fairly secure these are<br />
the handles for my Robo metal I've got a<br />
bunch of them in recently so these boxes<br />
are full they're not super heavy but<br />
they've got a little bit of mass to them<br />
so the thing doesn't shift around too<br />
much water all right<br />
no from Dee Dixon so hello thanks for<br />
tuning in so the first thing I'm going<br />
to work on is those little<br />
bits in here so I want to get them<br />
wrapped up around the front end of this<br />
leg and sort of inch or so wide up to<br />
the front of the seat that way when that<br />
layer of carbon fiber wraps around it<br />
will not have a blank spot in there so<br />
we're going to use a piece right out of<br />
this this is the sheet I'm going to cut<br />
the seat out of wrap the seat in and I'm<br />
just going to take some of this and put<br />
a 45 degree angle so the weave of the<br />
cloth is going like this and like this<br />
and so I'm going to cut at a 45 degree<br />
angle and you might I'm not sure how<br />
high-resolution the image is for you but<br />
you might be able to actually see that<br />
where this weave crosses it creates some<br />
diagonal lines so I'm just going to<br />
follow those diagonal lines so I get a<br />
nice 45 with the weed and then I'm going<br />
to cut a piece a couple inches wide so<br />
the reason I cut this at a 45 degree<br />
angle let's quickly show you that so you<br />
see how easily it stretches and distorts<br />
here and it all seems a nice clean edge<br />
there so I can pull on it I can make it<br />
wider you can make it longer so that<br />
that will end up distorting easily<br />
around this complex shape I have to deal<br />
with I'm gonna start cutting off the end<br />
here<br />
and I think this should be enough for<br />
both legs I'm just gonna cut it in half<br />
so the theory here just show you on a<br />
sample piece the theory is I'm going to<br />
lay it down there and then wrap it all<br />
the way around like that so that way the<br />
front edge of the leg covered in that<br />
strip where the two pieces are going to<br />
meet will also be covered and so I'm<br />
going to get that wet out nicely and<br />
hopefully that will blend in to the<br />
final product so to that end I'm going<br />
to put on some gloves I'm probably gonna<br />
take my gloves off at various times and<br />
if you've ever dealt with these gloves<br />
your hands are all sweaty it can be real<br />
difficult to get the gloves off so to<br />
account for that my plane is to actually<br />
put on several pairs of gloves<br />
so this one they're not another pair in<br />
that way as I get one pair of glove all<br />
sticky I can just peel that off and have<br />
a fresh pair of gloves on underneath I'm<br />
wearing this poopy suit just to keep the<br />
epoxy off my clothes and off my skin I<br />
probably should be wearing my organic<br />
vapor respirator at the same time so I<br />
have a full PPE on everything but if I<br />
try and talk while I'm wearing this I'll<br />
sound like Charlie Brown's teacher so<br />
I'm not gonna have that off so so now<br />
I've got three layers of gloves on maybe<br />
I'll go with one more<br />
these gloves are pretty thin so you<br />
don't lose too much dexterity with<br />
multiple pairs on but it does start to<br />
build up eventually bring this in or I<br />
can work on it now I have got some epoxy<br />
here this happens to be the MAS low<br />
viscosity with the slow I have also<br />
taken this and was sitting next to a<br />
light bulb for the past couple hours so<br />
that liquid is actually somewhat warm<br />
and I've also warmed up the shop here to<br />
about 75 Fahrenheit something like 20<br />
degrees Celsius it's pretty cold out so<br />
that's that's a good temperature in here<br />
sometimes I'll warm it up even more<br />
but for now we'll start with that I've<br />
got a mixing container here this is just<br />
a quart deli container so with the epoxy<br />
you want one pump to one pump so I'm not<br />
sure how much I want in here you know I<br />
don't want to make a huge amount all at<br />
once because I'm gonna it's gonna be a<br />
fairly slow process to get this all wet<br />
out and I don't want this gearing on me<br />
too much so they start with small<br />
batches and so I pump up the resin and<br />
one on the harbor and I always know that<br />
they gonna be starting resin and<br />
finishing on the hardener so instead of<br />
going one two three four five one two<br />
three and then the phone rings I'm just<br />
going to continue to do one pump and one<br />
pump do make sure the pump rise all the<br />
way to the top<br />
these are just ketchup or mustard pumps<br />
they're not like high-tech scientific<br />
instruments these pumps they'd happen to<br />
work quite well but you need to baby<br />
them a little bit run it all the way<br />
down to the bottom each all right that's<br />
probably gonna be enough for now you<br />
know I've got an inch or so on the<br />
bottom now I won't think about a shop<br />
where we build strip build boats we<br />
never lack for stirring sticks so we<br />
want to thoroughly stir this and usually<br />
they say stir for about a minute some<br />
people say two minutes the thing to be<br />
sure you do is make sure it's thoroughly<br />
mixed and so a lot of these plastic cups<br />
have sort of ridges in the bottom that<br />
can be hard to you know sort of<br />
reservoirs of unmixed resin so you want<br />
to make sure you dig down into those<br />
scrape down the sides a lot and keep<br />
stirring vigorously for a fair amount of<br />
time here<br />
[Music]<br />
right so just getting this well and<br />
thoroughly mixed again scrape down the<br />
side several times as you go and I tend<br />
to like to hold the cup at a bit of an<br />
angle so it's constantly running down<br />
into that bottom corner and that way if<br />
I mix down into that bottom corner<br />
I sort of know that's a place where all<br />
the resins gonna end up there eventually<br />
so I'll hold it a bit of an angle okay I<br />
also like to have a fairly deep<br />
container just you know especially when<br />
I'm working on a boat I'm wandering<br />
around carrying this container of epoxy<br />
and you know if you use a small<br />
container that's almost full any little<br />
angle you tip it you end up drooling the<br />
epoxy all over the floor so a deep one<br />
just controls that urge to drip all over<br />
the place so brush is a simple chip<br />
brush this is an inch and a half thirty<br />
eight millimeter something like that<br />
I like these brushes they're cheap<br />
they're disposable and the bristles are<br />
primarily white width and what that<br />
means and it doesn't matter too much in<br />
this application but if you're doing<br />
fiberglass those white bristles<br />
essentially turn clear in the epoxy so<br />
if you end up losing a bristle in the<br />
epoxy you're probably not going to see<br />
it so chip brushes work well so get the<br />
brush wet out and I'm going to apply<br />
some resin to this area where I'm going<br />
to be putting low pieces of cloth so<br />
sort of pre wet out<br />
so there's something for the fabric to<br />
stick to you saw me blow at this little<br />
these threads of carbon fiber they're<br />
very tenacious they want to stay and<br />
it's not really a big deal to disappear<br />
but just trying to keep it a little bit<br />
me I'm going to take this piece and lay<br />
it up on the foot and out to the end of<br />
the seat there and get it well saturated<br />
so I had written here before I've had a<br />
place to stick and this this carbon fuck<br />
really sucks up a fair amount of resin<br />
if you're used to working with<br />
fiberglass you know four ounce<br />
fiberglass or something<br />
the carbon fiber sucks up a lot more<br />
resin and fiberglass does and it could<br />
be a little hard to deal with sometimes<br />
because you think you should have it all<br />
wet out there should be plenty of resin<br />
in there but it just sucks up so much<br />
too you need to be prepared for that all<br />
right<br />
likewise on this side<br />
so I have three of these seats to do<br />
today<br />
so actually two of them going to use<br />
this carbon fiber on the third I have a<br />
heart hybrid carbon Kevlar will<br />
hopefully be getting to three different<br />
seats today all right so now I've got<br />
that little tab located in there now I<br />
want to get some epoxy over the whole<br />
thing because I'm gonna lay glass over<br />
the whole thing or carbon fiber and it<br />
will just help to have a little bit of<br />
something to adhere to as I'm laying<br />
that down I'm not putting it on too<br />
thick but this way I don't need to count<br />
them wedding out the you know saturating<br />
the wood through the cloth I know that<br />
there's at least the starter layer of<br />
resin over the whole<br />
I'm trying to move fairly fast here<br />
because the resin just keeps on getting<br />
thicker and thicker the longer you let<br />
it sit so the quicker I get it out of<br />
the cup on to the piece I'm working on<br />
the better it's going to perform the<br />
easy old beat for saturating the fabric<br />
and saturating the wood all right let's<br />
see what happens here<br />
so I think I'm going to try and pick up<br />
the carbon fiber and again this carbon<br />
fiber wants to stick to everything and<br />
so instead of peeling off the glove just<br />
yet I'm gonna wipe my hands down with<br />
the rag try and get them somewhat clean<br />
and now I have this piece of carbon<br />
fiber lay it down like this<br />
all right so I don't know that it shows<br />
up on the video but there is this<br />
diagonal line running through the due to<br />
the twill weave meeting together and I'm<br />
trying to line that with the center line<br />
and so it's running straight four and a<br />
half Thanh the seat doesn't matter that<br />
much on the seat like this which was<br />
hard to see but so I'm gonna just try<br />
and start to get this to conform to the<br />
shape of the seat and again since I did<br />
this at a diagonal so the weaves going<br />
this way and this way and I have these<br />
linear lines from the feet going this<br />
way that means that the fabric is<br />
running the cross like this and across<br />
like this so it's not hitting that<br />
corner and having to wrap straight up it<br />
can hit that at a diagonal that eases<br />
that corner a little bit makes a little<br />
bit easier for that to make it around<br />
the corner and I've cut that resin on<br />
there to give it a little bit of initial<br />
stickiness<br />
all right so that's starting to get in<br />
place there now I've got excess here on<br />
those legs I don't need it to run across<br />
the bottom of the legs come straight<br />
down here in the back of the leg and now<br />
wrap that in there like wire inside all<br />
the way to the end of that maybe<br />
slightly beyond all right now let's get<br />
rid of some of the excess around the<br />
edge here<br />
and this here will trim so even with the<br />
front alright that looks like it's<br />
conforming fairly well now we start<br />
wetting that out and I'm gonna start<br />
here the hardest part is this turn from<br />
the bottom up the side of the leg I'm<br />
just gonna ease it down into that corner<br />
likewise on the other side so I'm eating<br />
it down into the corner there<br />
so when I made this see I made sure<br />
there was a pretty good transition<br />
radius between the bottom and the side<br />
of that leg that way make it as easy as<br />
possible for the fabric to make that<br />
transition so now I'm going to just get<br />
a good amount of resin onto that carbon<br />
fiber stuck down brushing it so much I'm<br />
dabbing it down I want the fabric to<br />
conform to the shape and again is that<br />
it that sort of bias diagonal which<br />
makes it easy to distort so if I pull on<br />
this too much it runs the risk of<br />
pulling that we out of place so I'm just<br />
dabbing it down but I'm really using the<br />
ability of this fabric to distort and<br />
wrap around complex shapes and the<br />
carbon fiber is really very good at it<br />
it's amazing the contours with the<br />
carbon fiber will wrap around and if<br />
you're used to working with the glass<br />
the obvious thing you notice here is<br />
with fiberglass starts out white goes<br />
nice and clear the carbon fiber here<br />
stops out black and gets even blacker so<br />
it's hard to know whether it got enough<br />
resin on it I don't know if I can get it<br />
up here so you can see but over on this<br />
side it's got a certain gloss to it and<br />
over on that side you see it's sort of<br />
blacker and you see the dry stuff at the<br />
bottom edge there so you see I don't<br />
have that train I get a little bit wet<br />
out up at the top you really need to pay<br />
attention to how the color of the cloth<br />
changes to see if it's fully wet out<br />
when it's a little bit dry like right at<br />
the butt cheeks there it's a little bit<br />
of a dry spot it's a little<br />
to see and a naturist coming through on<br />
the video just gonna take a little bit<br />
more resin so let's get this use what<br />
I've got here<br />
so one thing about this layup doing a<br />
hand layup like this you know people<br />
think of carbon fibers being lightweight<br />
this is not a particularly lightweight<br />
layout because I'm doing hand layup and<br />
I'm putting on probably more pots either<br />
going to needs I'm really using the<br />
carbon fiber here because it looks cool<br />
I think it's a kind of cool look with<br />
this having the black underside so it<br />
just makes a nice contrast between the<br />
bright wood on the top and the black on<br />
the side so I've pretty much got that<br />
all saturated this is always a tough<br />
place right back here sort of at the<br />
heel of that foot there's a lot going on<br />
right there and you do want to make sure<br />
you're wet all the way up to the top<br />
edge of that foot and a little bit<br />
beyond and at the front edge here I'm<br />
wrapping this layer around the corner a<br />
bit so that first piece I put in is well<br />
covered and I can sand into little into<br />
the second piece a little bit and<br />
feather it in so you don't see that<br />
transition very well I can blend that in<br />
pretty nicely<br />
it is the underside of the seat so if<br />
it's not perfect it's gonna be hard for<br />
anybody to see but you want a nice job<br />
just in case somebody pulls it out so<br />
now I need a squeegee<br />
small squeegee here and a little paper<br />
Dixie cup I'm gonna tape and cut a<br />
little slit at the top of the Dixie cup<br />
just like that I tend to cut it right on<br />
where the paper is doubles doubled up<br />
for the seam on that so it's just a<br />
little bit stronger plastic cups don't<br />
work very well for this they last<br />
longest so I'm going to now just lightly<br />
take the excess off run it through my<br />
slot there<br />
something Rory's asking must be<br />
underneath be done with carbon what a<br />
fiberglass no absolutely the carbon<br />
fiber is just for appearances<br />
fiberglass would work just fine in this<br />
application the carbon fiber just looks<br />
cool so you do not need to use carbon<br />
fiber on your seats unless you want to<br />
and I just think it looks cool<br />
so I'm taking the excess here just<br />
lightly scraping the surface and bong it<br />
through that slot in the cup and that<br />
leaves the squeegee nice and clean and a<br />
little bit of resin gets in the cup<br />
every time<br />
I'm not putting a whole lot of pressure<br />
on this I'm just trying to get the bulk<br />
of the excess off get to the cloth press<br />
down tight against the wood as much as<br />
possible oh if you're using glass you<br />
could you make it a lot more pieces if<br />
this you know I'm trying to do it in<br />
this minimal number of pieces here<br />
because I want the weave of the fabric<br />
to have a nice continuous look to it but<br />
you know if you're using fiberglass<br />
that's clear you know you're not going<br />
to see the weave so you can patch it<br />
together and feather the edges in<br />
together but the the carbon fiber does<br />
look cool<br />
all right so that's one just about ready<br />
over there and I'm just going the back<br />
edge of these again in this area it<br />
really wants to pull off of that so I'm<br />
just going to use my fingers there even<br />
some wood showing up just make sure it's<br />
well pushed down into those Phillips all<br />
the way around I'm just going to take<br />
this one<br />
so I have another one here be much the<br />
same deal this is one that I cut on my<br />
scene see machine actually all of these<br />
I cut it several years ago but this one<br />
is super thin I actually cracked it over<br />
here just trying to trim it off the<br />
other day I don't know that this will<br />
actually survive in the long run but I<br />
figured I'll put some epoxy on it and<br />
carbon fiber and just see what happens<br />
it's some not something I'll give to a<br />
customer but maybe I'll put it in one of<br />
my own boats it'll be super lightweight<br />
because it's so thin it's it's less than<br />
a millimeter thick was cracked right in<br />
here and basically there's it's probably<br />
half a millimeter or less thick so it's<br />
not really strong but we'll see I think<br />
with the carbon fiber glass over the<br />
result will be plenty tough<br />
right now I need another of those little<br />
pieces right there so I'll cut it out of<br />
this<br />
so again I'm cutting the triangle pieces<br />
off in and then I will just cut that in<br />
half so those are ready to go now this<br />
will mix up a little bit more box<br />
so again I just choose a system for<br />
yourself I want to go with the resin<br />
first in a hardener second just to be<br />
consistent and so I'm putting it in this<br />
presentation so it's a little bit more<br />
lively cold when I go to reach with it<br />
reach it with my hand so that first<br />
batch I made was just about the right<br />
amount to do the whole seat<br />
and again I'm just double-checking that<br />
the pumps risen all the way back to the<br />
top here and finishing on the hardener<br />
so that's about the same amount as they<br />
made last time is about the inch the<br />
quarters of an inch in the bottom of<br />
that so any questions over here lucky<br />
dogs talking about the two by two twill<br />
weave being good at conforming and I<br />
think I think that's true<br />
so this twill weave goes to over to<br />
under to over two hundred and so then<br />
the next year next yarn over does the<br />
same but starts one yarn different so it<br />
ends up with a diagonal line and that<br />
twelve weave makes it does make it<br />
really conform easily but I must say<br />
that even a plain weave over-under<br />
over-under seems to work pretty well<br />
maybe not as well as the twelve but this<br />
will just seems compared to fiberglass<br />
just seems to conform better yeah<br />
asking the weight on this cloth this is<br />
a six ounce cloth and your regular twill<br />
wheat or regular plain weed so this is a<br />
plain weave cloth and this is a twill<br />
weave cloth he's I don't know if that<br />
difference shows up well but you can see<br />
the distinct diagonal lines going<br />
through the twill there is a diagonal<br />
going through the plain weave also but<br />
that over under over that two over two<br />
under seems to make a difference if not<br />
as much holding it down and technically<br />
I believe the twill is a little bit<br />
stronger given the same weight because<br />
there's fewer crimps each time you've<br />
been<br />
the fabric it weakens the fabric a<br />
little bit and so at will since it's<br />
half as many crimps it's a little bit<br />
stronger but you know as far as weight<br />
goes there are lighter weight fiber<br />
lighter weight carbon fiber fabrics<br />
available but they tend to get really<br />
pricey these nominal six ounce claws are<br />
fairly available they're pricey but not<br />
nearly as pristine as some of the finer<br />
weight cloth in carbon fiber in twill<br />
and plain weave are fairly standard to<br />
find and you're now able to find some<br />
really cool weaves where they're making<br />
really interesting patterns in them and<br />
I should get some of that at some point<br />
because we look cool you know they're<br />
they're designed to be decorative so<br />
again let's stir on that and now I will<br />
once again let out the front edge of<br />
these feet<br />
and get this piece laid in there like so<br />
and again this this shape that you're<br />
able to lay that cloth in if you're<br />
trying to do this not cutting on a bias<br />
there's just no way you'd ever make it<br />
make it wrap around it shaped like that<br />
excusing so again get this little<br />
saturated down there<br />
[Music]<br />
so now I will pre coat the whole thing<br />
and I'm laying it on pretty heavy here<br />
you hold it they be handed with<br />
because I want to have enough resin on<br />
there to fully saturate the carbon fiber<br />
because it takes take so much to suck up<br />
into the fabric if so you know as far as<br />
to the finished weight of this carbon<br />
fiber versus of fiberglass if I were<br />
using a six ounce 5s cloth versus a six<br />
ounce carbon fiber cloth you know the<br />
cloth is a per square yard weight<br />
measurement and so which is heavier the<br />
carbon fiber the blasts well they're<br />
both exactly the same weight or<br />
nominally the same weight so with the<br />
carbon fiber since it's a less dense<br />
cloth it actually sucks up a lot more<br />
resin per square yard so as a<br />
consequence a square yard of carbon<br />
fiber in a hand layup versus a square<br />
yard of fiberglass in a hand layup the<br />
carbon fiber is going to be heavier it<br />
should be stronger in you know the<br />
carbon fiber strong stuff that's why you<br />
can make lightweight things with it<br />
don't expect to actually be saving<br />
weight doing any kind of hand layup like<br />
this you're really doing it because it<br />
looks cool and I think it does look cool<br />
alright so I'm gonna get this ready for<br />
the layer of fabric just down over the<br />
top of it and again I'm gonna try and<br />
get that diagonal actually diagonal runs<br />
both directions but it's more visible in<br />
one direction than the other direction<br />
so one side again I'm trying to get this<br />
diagonal line lining up with the center<br />
line just for visual appeal<br />
all right so we have it loosely stuck<br />
down here<br />
trimming off the excess does make it<br />
easier to wrap the fabric law around you<br />
have less yarns you know these yarns out<br />
here do affect how easily the fabric<br />
wraps so by trimming them off you no<br />
longer have to worry about how they're<br />
interfering with your layout so again I<br />
get that tucked in either side and then<br />
I'm going to just run down<br />
you're trying to record this on my other<br />
camera because this will hopefully come<br />
out as a standalone video on the process<br />
and this morning I recorded the standing<br />
process and I'll get the glass thing of<br />
the topside eventually and then combine<br />
that all into one longer video alright<br />
so now we're just gonna get this dad<br />
down the way so again you start by<br />
getting it down into that fill up there<br />
both sides<br />
alright question from Monty Edwards<br />
about how long I have with the epoxy I I<br />
warmed this epoxy up before mixing it so<br />
I had a light bulb around the jugs to<br />
make it fairly warm it didn't get super<br />
warm but you know they're warmed up over<br />
the ambient temperature of the room a<br />
bit that lowers the viscosity but also<br />
speeds up the cure time and I warmed up<br />
the shop here so I said earlier on the<br />
shops probably in the I I got it up to<br />
70 to 75 something like that<br />
just to be a little bit warmer and just<br />
before I started on this I turned the<br />
heat off in the shop so from now on it<br />
should be cooling overnight but the warm<br />
shop speeds up the cure and the warm<br />
epoxy speeds up the cure and if I had<br />
this in a big jug with a lot mixed up<br />
here the very fact that I had a lot<br />
mixed up would speed up the cure the<br />
epoxy is a exothermic reaction so as the<br />
chemicals cure they give off some heat<br />
and so the more epoxy you have the<br />
faster it cures but once you get it<br />
spread in film on the surface of your<br />
boat or in this case a seat that slows<br />
right down way down you know it's almost<br />
immediately down to ambient room<br />
temperature here once it's spread out on<br />
this<br />
but that is I gave it a little bit of a<br />
boost as far as its ability to saturate<br />
the fabric by warming it up so I have<br />
probably 10 20 minutes after mixing this<br />
up in this situation before I really<br />
need to panic on it so I'm not you know<br />
that's giving me plenty of time to get<br />
this process done and I'm just mixing<br />
the next batch in that same pot so even<br />
though there's some you know partially<br />
or partially cured epoxy in there<br />
already basically you add new stuff but<br />
it doesn't cure that much faster just<br />
because you're already got Nick's stuff<br />
in there I'm sure it makes does miss<br />
Nick's faster but not enough to really<br />
worry about so I think I've got this all<br />
wet looking for dry spots all the way to<br />
the edge so get my squeegee again<br />
the cool recommending not to having<br />
carbon fiber on the top side of the seat<br />
so I'd a you don't burn your butt<br />
probably good thought yeah you know I<br />
like the look of the wood and the<br />
finished seat but I also think the wood<br />
actually looks better when is contrasted<br />
with carbon fiber that that contrast<br />
between the two sets the them both off<br />
and a better light so I'm just trying to<br />
get off the bulk of the excess here get<br />
rid of them any major drips this will<br />
all get a fill coat either tonight or<br />
early tomorrow ideally I get this while<br />
I was still tacky with a Philco but<br />
we'll see how ambitious I am tonight my<br />
feet using up all my energy trying to<br />
make this live stream thing work alright<br />
so there was a discussion on the<br />
Facebook kayak building page one of the<br />
kayak building pages in past few days<br />
talking about when to apply fill coats<br />
ideally the best time to apply a fill Co<br />
is while the after the epoxy has cured<br />
up sufficiently that is bonding the<br />
fabric tightly down to the wood but<br />
tacky enough that there's still good<br />
chemical bonds hanging out there waiting<br />
to make a good cure with the next coat<br />
so that's sort of in a sticky state and<br />
when that is really depends on the<br />
temperature top<br />
epoxy you're using etc so it's hard to<br />
say the best way to tell let's just go<br />
out and touch it<br />
feel what it feels like and the<br />
recommended test I heard from the folks<br />
at mas epoxy is to use a cotton ball and<br />
just dab the cotton ball onto the<br />
surface if it's really wet like it is<br />
now the cotton ball will just pull right<br />
off and not pull any hairs off of it<br />
because so wet that it's not really<br />
stinky yet if I let it dry completely<br />
you touch it with a cotton ball cotton<br />
ball won't stick it off because it's<br />
hard you want to find that place where<br />
when you touch the cotton ball or q-tip<br />
to the surface it sticks and pulls hairs<br />
off the ball and that's a sign that you<br />
know it was sticky and it's a good time<br />
to apply a new coat you'll have chemical<br />
bonds sitting out there waiting to do<br />
their thing where if you wait too long<br />
those chemical bonds are sort of used up<br />
not available for new stuff to stick to<br />
so last one here those two were mahogany<br />
this is Western redcedar with a couple<br />
accents of Alaskan yellow sea<br />
and I'm going to be using this<br />
carbon Kevlar hybrid claw actually<br />
because these multiple pairs of gloves I<br />
bought the fresh pair of gloves on<br />
sticking so on the carbon fiber I use my<br />
regular scissors I use four fiberglass<br />
these will cut fiberglass and carbon<br />
fiber no problem but trying to cut the<br />
carbon it doesn't do anything catwalk so<br />
I have this very scissors particularly<br />
for a Kevlar and I'm not exactly sure<br />
how they're sharpened differently they<br />
have a little bit of a texture to it so<br />
it keeps the yarns or fibers from<br />
sliding along it grabs them a little bit<br />
and I think the angles a little bit<br />
different so again I'm gonna cut a<br />
diagonal out of here and you see these<br />
scissors no problem and I'm gonna get it<br />
again the two inch wide piece here<br />
this is one don't cut the other out of<br />
this edge so I will once again mix up a<br />
little bit more epoxy<br />
so this likewise is a six ounce fabric<br />
I'll show you a close-up in a moment but<br />
it's still a twill so it's still two up<br />
two down offsetting by one each time and<br />
in this case it's alternating yarns of<br />
Kevlar and carbon fiber so there's the<br />
warp and weft of the seam or nominally<br />
the same and it makes a nice little<br />
twill pattern there a nice little sort<br />
of houndstooth pattern but I think looks<br />
cool and again you know it's probably<br />
overkill for our purposes to be using<br />
the exotic cloths like this but<br />
[Music]<br />
basically I will just use a utility<br />
knife you know little box cutter knife<br />
and trim the edge and then I'll sand it<br />
and that will make a nice sharp edge<br />
there well with the Kevlar it can end up<br />
fuzzing up a little bit but I found that<br />
if that fuzz up happens you can just<br />
keep all the finer and finer sand papers<br />
and eventually the fuzz gets sanded down<br />
to nothing so I I'm just letting<br />
everything hang at this point and then<br />
they'll come back and they'll sort of be<br />
a thick layer of epoxy there and ideally<br />
I'll get this<br />
well that epoxy is still green and<br />
leathery<br />
and so it'll cut easily with that<br />
utility knife and you know even the<br />
Kevlar what you think is really hard to<br />
cut in the carbon fiber you think oh<br />
that's really strong and leathery epoxy<br />
with the sharp utility knife you cut<br />
through it no problem cuts very easily<br />
alright so we've got this mixed up so<br />
this is what the cloth looks like so you<br />
can see running vertically every other<br />
yarn is yellow and black and running<br />
horizontally every other yarn is yellow<br />
and black so the yellow is the Kevlar<br />
the black is the carbon fiber and it<br />
makes a cool pattern I'd like to look at<br />
it and you see you'll get these lines<br />
where black and yellow line zigzag lines<br />
where the two yarns are the st. kind on<br />
the surface together and so I'm going to<br />
try and line those up so we have my<br />
brush once more we're going to brush<br />
some epoxy onto this<br />
all right so that's a pre saturation I'm<br />
going to try and run these that black<br />
and yellow diagonal straight<br />
fore-and-aft<br />
this stuff also conforms quite nicely<br />
and we'll get this fully saturated<br />
having the resin below soaked up from<br />
below does help the wet out process on<br />
this<br />
but you can see so the the contortions<br />
the yarns have to go through they're<br />
coming along diagonally then they wrap<br />
up that curve and wrap around the side<br />
again if we were running the yarn<br />
straight up this way and straight across<br />
that way<br />
it just it would not have a fun time<br />
doing it so once again I will pre<br />
saturate the wood here<br />
so if this the process for these three<br />
is pretty much the same this one's only<br />
different in that I'm using the carbon<br />
Kevlar cloth instead of the pure carbon<br />
the those diagonal lines I've talked<br />
about in the carbon fiber are more<br />
evident in here because of the<br />
alternating carbon and Kevlar yarns<br />
solely a little bit more careful and<br />
getting those lined up nicely alright<br />
here I have a little bit of lot of<br />
carbon fiber to see if the end grain of<br />
this cedar really sucks up the resin so<br />
it doesn't hurt to overfill that a bit<br />
all right once again we will take this<br />
fabric and those diagonal lines are<br />
running vertically so I'm going to try<br />
and get this down so they're running<br />
straight down the center<br />
that's getting it tucked in around of<br />
that leg the camel art is definitely<br />
harder to cut custard a carbon yard<br />
yarns without a second thought<br />
struggle a little bit - those can get<br />
more yarns and I think the fact that<br />
there are diagonal the scissors here is<br />
probably axe making a little bit harder<br />
too<br />
so I want these my expensive Kevlar<br />
scissors I want to keep them free so I<br />
fixed them do you need alcohol there and<br />
that I should probably always do that to<br />
my scissors if you look at these<br />
scissors you know they're really gummed<br />
up with epoxy I bring these two classes<br />
and students use them and I just let the<br />
epoxy build up but I will use a paint<br />
scraper to get the built up epoxy that's<br />
why I get stuff off there but a little<br />
denatured alcohol water it is still wet<br />
works<br />
so now we will once again get this<br />
completely wetted out this is a little<br />
bit easier than the carbon fiber to see<br />
that a saturated color change and the<br />
Kevlar is a little bit more pronounced<br />
it goes from a sort of bright yellow to<br />
a greenish so that does make it a little<br />
bit easier to see<br />
I'm finding I have a little space here<br />
where the in front edge of the seat is<br />
not completely covered with fabric so<br />
I'm going to just see if I can pull the<br />
fabric down a length a little bit and<br />
get it so stretches<br />
here's the black yarn we don't want that<br />
in the surface it'll be more visible<br />
than on the carbon on carbon<br />
yeah Thomas Cooper talking about the how<br />
you doing tom<br />
like the woods showing through the the<br />
carbon fiber yeah it can you know I I<br />
tend to not worry about it too much<br />
the more you distort the cloth here the<br />
more likely it is that those weaves just<br />
open up in such a way that you can see<br />
the wood showing through one way to deal<br />
with that so the best way is just paint<br />
the wood black or tint the wood black<br />
before applying the carbon fiber that<br />
way you may be seeing the wood but you<br />
won't know it because it'll be black so<br />
we're just getting this nicely out there<br />
nice happy carbon fiber<br />
happy Kevlar<br />
and there's a little bit distortion<br />
that's visible here and the weave around<br />
this back foot I can sort of pull on it<br />
a little bit to support even that out<br />
and distribute the distortion a little<br />
bit more evenly throughout the wrap make<br />
sure you get up the sides of the legs<br />
it's easy to miss that<br />
okay Rory<br />
I've had problems keeping the carbon<br />
fiber down and the angles it seems to<br />
straighten out and lift away from the<br />
wood yeah again try and make it so the<br />
bias lays into those corners so instead<br />
of having the yarns come straight up<br />
this way and run straight parallel to<br />
that corner I've set up the yarns in the<br />
bias so it's easing that corner and<br />
making it a less drastic corner and that<br />
definitely helps I have found you know<br />
people often talk about working in<br />
falling temperatures while doing<br />
fiberglass work on stripper poles I<br />
found that it's even more critical when<br />
using these fabrics the fabrics are not<br />
good at letting the air escape out<br />
through fabric and so you can end up in<br />
a situation where you can't see the<br />
bubble because it's under the cloth but<br />
there's a bubble there and it can't get<br />
out through the fabric in the same way<br />
it might in fiberglass so if you have<br />
outgassing from the wood due to the wood<br />
getting warm and warm or throughout your<br />
process you'll end up with really bad<br />
bubbles and it's really hard to see them<br />
until it's kind of too late I have found<br />
however and this is from experience that<br />
even when the epoxy is hard as long as<br />
it's only recently hard you can take a<br />
heat gun and soften the epoxy up and<br />
press out a bubble you know it's not<br />
recommended that you allow it to happen<br />
but it you know comes to shove and he<br />
end up in the situation where you've got<br />
some major bubbles try and inspect with<br />
your work fairly early on in the cure<br />
process you know babysit it and if you<br />
see bubbles rising up a start to make<br />
sure your temperatures drop and to just<br />
make those bubbles shrink and be you can<br />
come and heat them up with the heat gun<br />
and press them back down if you get to<br />
them early enough<br />
so this is just about ready<br />
and I feel this grunge cup starting to<br />
warm up at the bottom of the earliest<br />
grunge is starting to kick off again<br />
it's um a fairly thick blob here and<br />
this will make a nice muffin probably is<br />
that epoxy kicks off the air trapped in<br />
the epoxy from all the scraping I've<br />
done will start to expand and don't end<br />
up looking like a souffle here I call<br />
that bacon muffins all right so<br />
I also find with the epoxy cup typically<br />
if you just leave the epoxy brush over<br />
the top let it keep or you can probably<br />
pop the old epoxy out of there or just<br />
use it as is with the layer of cured<br />
epoxy in the bottom it doesn't matter<br />
but if you leave the cup down there's a<br />
brush down in the cup then it's harder<br />
to just straight away use it and it's I<br />
find it harder to get the brush the<br />
whole bit of epoxy out of there with the<br />
brush stuck into it it seems to be<br />
easier if there's nothing in there and<br />
then I just squeeze the cup and crack it<br />
out of there and generally have good<br />
results with that all right so just<br />
double-checking around these feet making<br />
sure it's living in there wrapping<br />
nicely edge looks pretty good<br />
so let's see if there's you have<br />
questions here<br />
how long do you have to great<br />
explanation hand lay-up<br />
somebody's wondering where the Russian<br />
subtitles are sorry about that next time<br />
anything else okay I think that's what<br />
it shows you the process I'm gonna let<br />
these cure up and probably get a fill<br />
code on it again either tonight or<br />
tomorrow morning and see how it all<br />
comes out so feel free after I'm done<br />
here to keep on asking questions on in<br />
the comments and we can try to get to<br />
them and you know I'll answer them the<br />
old-fashioned way all right Kevin<br />
deboning I'll be putting carbon fiber on<br />
small wooden pieces vacuum bagging a<br />
good idea vacuum bagging is going to<br />
provide a stronger light lighter layup<br />
with carbon fiber but it's it's a bit of<br />
a hassle the alternatives so the cheap<br />
man's vacuum bagging is to use a peel<br />
ply so a peel ply is a nylon fabric<br />
sometimes treated with something so it<br />
the epoxy does not bond to it but the<br />
epoxy doesn't bind to nylon very well<br />
anyways so if you're dealing with flat<br />
surfaces you lay that excuse me you lay<br />
the fabric down so your carbon fiber wet<br />
it out completely and then over saturate<br />
it a little bit and then you lay down<br />
your peel ply and squeegee it down tight<br />
and you'll get a resin soaking up<br />
through the peel ply and you can even<br />
squeegee off the excess and when when<br />
it's cured you go ahead and you peel<br />
that peel ply right off and it leaves a<br />
nice surface that's basically glue up<br />
ready sanding ready you don't need a<br />
fill coat<br />
and it's a really inexpensive easy way<br />
to get some of the properties of a good<br />
vacuum bag the reason I am not doing it<br />
on these seats is it does not do well in<br />
complicated shapes so the peel ply<br />
doesn't conform the same way that I<br />
would last or carbon fiber conforms to<br />
these complicated shapes so I couldn't<br />
lay it down and have it do all these<br />
curves it just doesn't like to do curves<br />
the peel ply does flat surface really so<br />
actually this this is my backrest I<br />
don't know if you can see but that's<br />
carbon fiber and this I laid a peel ply<br />
on essentially it's it's not a compound<br />
curve the peel ply lay down on it very<br />
easily and end up with a nice surface<br />
and just a light sanding on that and I<br />
can glue it directly to it it's a nice<br />
it's a really nice thing I wish that we<br />
were easier to use on the layout of the<br />
layout of a full boat if you could light<br />
peel ply down on it and have good<br />
results you'd save weight because you<br />
essentially don't need a Philco and<br />
you're compressing the fabric and<br />
squeezing the excess resin out and it's<br />
a nice thing but the complex shapes will<br />
be even in fairly simple canoe I think<br />
there's things you could do you could<br />
cut strips and lay it down and you know<br />
so each strip doesn't have to conform to<br />
quite as complicated<br />
but each time you have an overlap of the<br />
strip you'll end up with the rich name<br />
that would you would have to sand down<br />
so I think that it would just not be<br />
worthwhile but it's something I keep<br />
thinking about and you know if anybody<br />
wants to do the science on that report<br />
back I'd like to hear how it goes all<br />
right I think I'm going to call that the<br />
day here again if you have any questions<br />
feel free to post them in the comments<br />
and I'll try to get back onto those<br />
shortly let's see how do we stop this<br />
thing there we go there's an X stop yes<br />
</p>
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Mon, 27 Apr 2020 17:36:14 +0000nick4185 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comFlipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/recreational-kayak-sea-kayak/microbootlegger-sport/flipping-forms-microbootlegger-sport
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/microbootlegger-sport" title="microBootlegger Sport">microBootlegger Sport Plans</a> </li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool" title="Robo-Bevel - Strip built boat beveling tool">Robo-Bevel</a></li>
<li>Get the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/clothing/just-build-it-t-shirt" title="Just Build It T-shirt">"Just Build It" T-Shirt</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-books/building-strip-planked-boats" title="Building Strip Planked Boats">Read along in my Book</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adjustable Temperature Professional Heavy Duty Hot Glue Gun - <a href="http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW">http://amzn.to/2nSK3OW</a></li>
<li>3M #2060 Masking Tape: <a href="http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF">http://amzn.to/2CeLOdF</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Music:</p>
<p>Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (<a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</a>) Artist: <a href="http://audionautix.com/">http://audionautix.com/</a></p>
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<div class="panel-body">[Music]<br />
good morning welcome back to the shop<br />
I'm Nick Schade and I'm building the micro<br />
bootlegger sports strip built kayak so<br />
far I've got the hull all stripped up<br />
and what's gonna happen today is I'm<br />
gonna flip the forms over and start<br />
working on the deck the first step of<br />
that is obviously just flipping it over<br />
and then I want to break the strip's<br />
free of the forms right now they're hot<br />
melt glue to the forms to avoid staples<br />
in order to make it easier to get the<br />
haul off later I want to break that glue<br />
joint and make it so the hollows free of<br />
the forms so we'll flip the boat over<br />
break it free and then start stripping<br />
up the deck so the hulls potentially<br />
gonna receive a little bit of rough<br />
handling while I try and flip it over so<br />
just is a little bit of reinforcement<br />
I'm gonna run some filament tape which<br />
is a fiberglass reinforced packing tape<br />
just across the strips just isn't sort<br />
of reinforcement I'll do it wherever<br />
there's a form over here I set up some V<br />
blocks on my saw horses this is a<br />
place to accept the boat as I flip it<br />
over I'll end up putting it back on my<br />
external strong back system here before<br />
I'm done but just for now but I can lift<br />
it up put it someplace I have these B<br />
blocks<br />
I have here some inverse forms or<br />
cradles to correspond to a couple of the<br />
forms on the strong back so this is<br />
would be form 28 or 28 inches from the<br />
finished bow so we've got form 98 and<br />
form 158 and so I'm just going to end up<br />
screwing these down to the strong back<br />
in their respective locations so I have<br />
cradles to hold the boat securely to the<br />
my working surface here couple cleats to<br />
just a little bit of weather stripping<br />
here which I'm going to use to cushion<br />
top edge of these forms<br />
it looks like it'll do just fine so now<br />
I want to break the strips off the forms<br />
I don't want to mess up the forms<br />
particularly but I just want to make<br />
sure that the glue holding the strip's<br />
to these forms is broken so when it<br />
comes time to get the deck off I only<br />
need to worry about breaking the deck<br />
free I will already have the hull free<br />
so the first thing I want to do is just<br />
make it to the forms of freedom moves so<br />
the wedges are out the forms are free to<br />
move now and then I'll just take lightly<br />
tap the forms break them free<br />
when I tap here I'm tapping towards the<br />
wider bit so I'm not trying to force the<br />
forms into a smaller part of the strips<br />
which could split the tips apart once<br />
the forms are broken free I can return<br />
them to their original position by<br />
inserting the wedges back in<br />
I'm also going to cut the inner stem<br />
here so I don't end up attaching the<br />
Deccan Hall together of this piece<br />
with the stems cut I can just double<br />
check make sure the forms are indeed<br />
free this end double check the other end<br />
since the stern recurves forward this<br />
part of the form is trapped in there in<br />
order to get it out it needs to slide<br />
forward and so I can't just lift up here<br />
to break it free I need to lift up at<br />
the other end<br />
now after popping all that glue off I'm<br />
gonna put a little bit of glue back in<br />
but this time I'm just gonna be gluing<br />
the top edge just to make sure these<br />
strips tape stay tight up against the<br />
forms these will be easy enough to break<br />
out when it comes time so the forms all<br />
flipped over and ready to accept strips<br />
from the deck those strips were all<br />
bundled up and prepared before we even<br />
started on the haul and so now it's just<br />
a matter of unbundling those and taking<br />
one strip off of stack at a time and<br />
adding it onto the forms see how far we<br />
get here we have the material we set<br />
aside for the deck got it marked<br />
starboard port this is the part line<br />
nine and nine with a circle on it and so<br />
we just need to undo this wrapping so we<br />
can get access to the strips<br />
bringing this for a strip over here will<br />
do the sanity check all right<br />
part line part line starboard starboard<br />
six seven eight nine so it looks like<br />
everything's in the sequence it's<br />
supposed to be and grain looks like it's<br />
right orientation everything looks good<br />
so quick dry fit here shows I need to do<br />
a little bit of Robo bevel on here to<br />
square up that top edge of the existing<br />
strip<br />
so I'm ready to put this first strip on<br />
the deck the only thing that's different<br />
here is I won't actually glue the bottom<br />
edge of this strip to the top edge of<br />
this strip that way when it comes time<br />
to take the deck off it's not glued<br />
together I will glue this strip to the<br />
forms and some of these strips popped<br />
off on the hull i'll riku them back on<br />
and I will put a little spot of yellow<br />
glue between the strip and the inner<br />
stem so this does get clued to the inner<br />
stem but it does not get glued to the<br />
strip below it and again I'm lining up<br />
my marks here to keep the grain all<br />
aligned and we'll just continue with<br />
that all the way up to the centerline<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
like a lot of kayak designs micro<br />
bootlegger sport doesn't have a defined<br />
shear line I've created a part line<br />
which is right here between these two<br />
strips so I haven't glued between these<br />
two strips and in the middle of the boat<br />
that's the widest part of the forms it<br />
doesn't really have anything going on<br />
there it's just a smooth continuous<br />
curve past that area I'd like to make it<br />
so essentially that part line disappears<br />
so in the finished boat you just don't<br />
see where the hull finishes off and the<br />
deck starts you know I've got a water<br />
line here and I want to point that out<br />
but I don't really need to point out<br />
where the shear line is on the<br />
traditional kayak the shear line is a<br />
fairly distinct angle between the deck<br />
and the hall and there's an obvious<br />
transition from the deck to the hall<br />
with this it's not so obvious and I want<br />
to hide it so as part of that I<br />
continued these strips rate paths<br />
they're the same color strips starting<br />
at the water water line moving up but<br />
the other thing is since there is not<br />
that to find angle there it's not very<br />
rigid so it's it's pretty easy for these<br />
strips to move one against the other and<br />
so one is high then the other is high<br />
and if I'm sanding making this a smooth<br />
transition between this strip and this<br />
strip can be a little tricky because<br />
there's not much supporting it here at<br />
the forum there's something supporting<br />
it here at the other form of something<br />
supporting it but here the this strips<br />
can flex quite a bit so what I'd like to<br />
do is put a little bit of a backer<br />
behind that to help keep those strips<br />
aligned and what it's going to be is<br />
basically a couple little tabs of wood<br />
one glued to the top overhanging into<br />
the bottom another on the bottom<br />
overhanging onto the top I'm going to<br />
glue<br />
on the inside so when you push on it<br />
there's something bridging those two<br />
pieces but I don't want to have the two<br />
pieces bonded together that's why we'll<br />
glue one to one side and the other to<br />
the other side but by having those two<br />
teeth hooked together it'll just give a<br />
little bit of support so just get this<br />
little short piece of strip here and the<br />
part line is the third between the third<br />
and fourth strip down one two three four<br />
so right there and I'm going to end up<br />
gluing this across like that and then<br />
another piece right next to it so one<br />
will be glued to the strip above the<br />
part line yeah they will be glued to the<br />
strip below the part line<br />
and it'll go along the whole scene<br />
between every form doing just that<br />
so that'll just give it a little bit of<br />
support when it comes time to sand the<br />
outside along the part line<br />
I'm gonna call that it for today I got<br />
three strips up the side I get the<br />
little teeth in there to hold this that<br />
seam in alignment I flipped this morning<br />
I flipped it over and got the forms<br />
knocked free and so made good progress<br />
today I think it's it's looking sharp<br />
that dark wood that I've that I've used<br />
for the side is the pattern starting to<br />
come together I'm starting to see the<br />
next mirror here and I think it's really<br />
gonna look cool tomorrow will be just<br />
more stripping watching a man stripped<br />
and we'll see how far we get with that<br />
the goal will be to get up to the center<br />
line start stripping past the center<br />
line on one side and then eventually<br />
we'll end up marking that center line<br />
trimming to the center line filling in<br />
from the other side and we will also<br />
mark this back deck shine feature line<br />
and put a accent strip along there we'll<br />
also put an accent strip on the center<br />
line and we'll fill in this back deck<br />
with that other wood I got which I think<br />
will look really sharp so coming along<br />
if you have any questions please post<br />
them in the comments you know if you<br />
watched all the way through this give me<br />
a like if you're watching all these<br />
episodes hit subscribe I've got a couple<br />
books out about strip building boats and<br />
despite the amount of information I'm<br />
trying to put into this video I think<br />
having a reference from those books to<br />
see what steps and what a little bit<br />
more why I'm doing things might come in<br />
handy for some of you if you're<br />
interested in the book there should be a<br />
link down in the description until the<br />
next episode thanks for watching and<br />
happy paddling<br />
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Sun, 12 Apr 2020 18:06:39 +0000nick4184 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comFinal Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/final-sanding-staining-petrel-kayak-build-e8
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Final sanding of the strips and applying a stain to the wood prior to fiberglassing.</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Makita Hand-Held Belt Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk">https://amzn.to/2UrTpCk</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Finish Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY">https://amzn.to/2tAS9BY</a></li>
<li>Festool RO Agressive Sander: <a href="https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf">https://amzn.to/3bjAAYf</a></li>
<li>Festool Contour Pad: <a href="https://amzn.to/2GYw43a">https://amzn.to/2GYw43a</a></li>
<li>Mirka Bendable Long Board: <a href="https://amzn.to/378MYGR">https://amzn.to/378MYGR</a></li>
<li>Mirka Abranet Sanding Mesh: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA">https://amzn.to/2Oy4VbA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>Other Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Solvent Bottle: <a href="https://amzn.to/2woRmp5">https://amzn.to/2woRmp5</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body">so I built the boat in this series in the<br />
winter of 2019 as I record this intro<br />
right now it is the middle of March of<br />
2020 and we're in the midst of the<br />
corona virus<br />
my wife just put her hand on my forehead<br />
to see if I had a fever I hope<br />
everybody's safe in good health washing<br />
their hands maybe doing a little social<br />
distancing hanging out in their shop and<br />
boatbuilding I thought you guys might<br />
appreciate a break from all the bad news<br />
on the television in the newspaper and<br />
watch a little bit about building for<br />
now and so in this episode I'm going to<br />
be working on finishing up the sanding<br />
and getting some stain on the boat so<br />
we'll be doing a little bit of masking<br />
to have different colored stains and to<br />
keep the accents showing up nice and<br />
bright and I'll start off with filling<br />
some of the gaps that inevitably show up<br />
in any bill they do so let's get right<br />
to it<br />
I have a few small cracks where I didn't<br />
have good tight joints between the<br />
strips so I'm going to fill some of<br />
those up with a little bit of sawdust<br />
mixture so I've got my cyclone here<br />
which collects the dust as I sand and I<br />
dumped it out before I got started it's<br />
some clean stuff so that cedar sawdust I<br />
found that even though this is the wood<br />
that came off the boat it ends up being<br />
darker when you mix it up like this just<br />
because of the fine powder just absorbs<br />
material resin and so forth more so I'm<br />
going to add a little bit of cab Asil<br />
I'm gonna add some water to it<br />
[Music]<br />
glue to ask act as a size and sort of<br />
fine binds it all together there I have<br />
a putty which I can spread into the<br />
cracks seal them up<br />
part of what sealing up the cracks does<br />
isn't just visual it's to keep the epoxy<br />
from just running straight through<br />
leaving sort of a bubble there so this<br />
will help fill those up so here I have a<br />
little crack I'd like to fill up it's<br />
pretty thin I could just epoxy right<br />
over this and you know frankly you've<br />
probably never even noticed it but here<br />
I might as well see if I can fill that<br />
up a little bit I'm going to take and<br />
put masking tape on either side of it<br />
that way I don't end up getting a halo<br />
of glue sealing up the grain in the wood<br />
around the issue<br />
and I'm just putting the material right<br />
where I need it and take the putty knife<br />
take some of the putty off let it dry<br />
I'll be coming back and sanding this and<br />
it'll knock the top off of that<br />
I'll give the whole boat of the final<br />
overall sanding with 120 on the<br />
longboard it gets rid of scratches from<br />
the last 120 sanding deals with some of<br />
these places where I put a little putty<br />
in the cracks and also last thing I did<br />
before that was when everything down<br />
raised the grain so this will flatten<br />
that raised<br />
[Music]<br />
so I've done the major overall sanding<br />
now I want to hit some details always<br />
difficult get the very edge here at the<br />
shear line stand it all the way out<br />
because it's flexible there so you push<br />
on it it just flexes away and tends to<br />
get shortchanged in the amount of<br />
sanding it gets so I'm going to sit down<br />
and there's a small city block and take<br />
care of that some places on the deck<br />
where around the recess it needs a<br />
little bit of detail and I'm just gonna<br />
affect it as I go see if I see anything<br />
and I can deal with it as I go<br />
[Music]<br />
so now I've got the Deccan Hall all<br />
sanded out ready for the next step which<br />
in this case is going to be staining I<br />
could go directly to fiberglassing now<br />
if I weren't gonna stain<br />
so each pass I did took like half an<br />
hour to do the whole boat so the first<br />
60 grit over the whole thing about half<br />
an hour then I did sixty grit on the<br />
longboard another half hour and then 80<br />
grit with the random orbital and then 80<br />
grit with the longboard and then 120<br />
grit with the random orbital and 120 was<br />
the longboard then a little bit of<br />
detail sanding so there were three hours<br />
of sanding to get it to this point which<br />
is quite a bit of time spent sanding but<br />
it goes pretty quickly the thing to<br />
remember to make sanding as easy as<br />
possible is be intentional in what<br />
you're doing so know what you're<br />
intending to do so the first pass is to<br />
level things out and fair it out so we<br />
want that to go as quickly as possible<br />
it's about removing material so we want<br />
to move material as quickly as possible<br />
so for that purpose we go with really<br />
coarse grit and a really powerful sander<br />
and so we're just removing material<br />
we're trying to make it level so we're<br />
not trying to erase mistakes we're<br />
trying to lower high spots so you don't<br />
go around say oh there's a spot that<br />
looks like it needs work and try and dig<br />
into that spot that's going to make a<br />
low spot if you see a place where there<br />
seems to be an issue where it's uneven<br />
feel for the high spots and knock down<br />
the high spots again we're being<br />
intentional in what we're doing also to<br />
save time be systematic in what you're<br />
doing so don't just sort of pop here and<br />
there oh I see something over there you<br />
see something over here work from one<br />
end of the boat to the other then back<br />
up the other way work on it<br />
systematically so you're not<br />
going over the same spot lots of times<br />
this was pretty easy to fare out the<br />
strips were laying down fair they were<br />
fitting tight they were even the Cova<br />
bead helped make the strips nice and<br />
even I save time my sanding by making<br />
sure I had the strip's fair and smooth I<br />
put them in place every step of the way<br />
we're trying to make things fair and<br />
smooth and that way when it comes time<br />
to do a real hard work of tearing it out<br />
you don't need to do a lot of work so<br />
once we get it all fair and smooth and<br />
leveled we are done trying to get rid of<br />
problems we there might be a few here<br />
and there that we missed but if you feel<br />
when you get to the next grit that oh<br />
here's an issue I've got to work on this<br />
you were better off doing that with the<br />
coarse grain and when it goes faster<br />
trying to fix problems with the finer<br />
grain just as slow we want to use the<br />
most aggressive fastest tool we can to<br />
get the job done and so it's done<br />
quickly I know people are scared to use<br />
coarse grain sandpaper but it takes a<br />
lot of work to sand all the way through<br />
the boat and you're most likely to do<br />
that if you're trying to spot fix things<br />
the whole intention of the 80 grit<br />
sandpaper is only to get rid of the<br />
scratches from the 60 grit sandpaper and<br />
then once we're done with the AIDA we go<br />
to 120 and the reason for using 120 is<br />
to get rid of the scratches from the 80<br />
grit sandpaper if you're finding swirls<br />
leftover from the 60 grit you probably<br />
didn't do enough with the 80 grit so as<br />
you go with the 80 grit inspect the<br />
surface look for scratches in it that<br />
are the swirls from the 60 grit you'll<br />
be able to tell the difference sand them<br />
away so do your process systematically<br />
as you go trying to get rid of the<br />
scratches the whole way it doesn't take<br />
a lot you just need to be intentional in<br />
what you're doing knowing what you're<br />
trying to accomplish and concentrating<br />
on a comp<br />
sing that task and then move on to the<br />
next task so there is a lot of sanding<br />
strip build boats it's a given and the<br />
goal is to make the sanding is easy and<br />
quick as possible and when you're doing<br />
it right it's a really satisfying<br />
project you're seeing changes you see<br />
how you're improving the boat with every<br />
step of the process if you're not seeing<br />
it make any difference think about what<br />
you're doing are you doing something<br />
that's worthwhile if it doesn't look<br />
like it's making a difference do<br />
something else if you see something that<br />
needs to be fixed and what you're doing<br />
isn't fixing it think about what you<br />
need to do to fix it so be intentional<br />
in everything you do and it'll go<br />
quickly and it'll be fun and you'll have<br />
a beautiful boat I put some accent<br />
strips some contrasting Alaskan yellow<br />
cedar in lung feature line if I have<br />
this trying basically accent strip I<br />
like to put in highlight hide that<br />
accent strip I want to do that put a lot<br />
of effort into putting that strip in<br />
there<br />
what I've often done is just going to<br />
hit gone ahead and stained everything<br />
then come back it ends up popping again<br />
so you can see the nice accent what I<br />
did today this time we want to go ahead<br />
and get stained today if we put epoxy on<br />
here I need to wait 12 hours for that to<br />
dry have that accent showing pretty<br />
crisply so I'm gonna put masking tape on<br />
either side of the accent blue tape here<br />
instead of the green tape I often use<br />
because the blue tape does not stick as<br />
well I want it to stick but I don't want<br />
it to like peel grain I don't want to<br />
create a rough spot by putting a really<br />
aggressive sticking tape on here and<br />
peeling up grain as I peel it off and<br />
then having a place where the stain<br />
reacts differently due to the texture of<br />
the wood science experiment then I'm<br />
going to try and put a bead of CA glue<br />
right down on top of that looks like it<br />
may worked alright<br />
I got a chance to set up take a look at<br />
it the few places where strings of glue<br />
pulled off as I peel the tape I might be<br />
able to sand those out that looks like<br />
there's a nice bead right on top of that<br />
accent there's a little bit of bleed off<br />
into the cedar but there's going to be<br />
good contrast there anyways I think<br />
that'll work out fine<br />
I have an accent strip on the hall also<br />
again this accent highlights repeat the<br />
line drying back here and I had the same<br />
problem we're gonna be staining on both<br />
sides and so I don't want stain on the<br />
accent stripe but I have a slightly<br />
different solution for this one my<br />
intention is to have a two-tone here so<br />
the bottom of the boat will be stained<br />
as well the side of the boat but I'm<br />
going to use a lighter stain on the<br />
bottom than I am gonna do on the side so<br />
to accomplish that I'm going to mask off<br />
with masking tape at the accent stripe I<br />
know if I'm sort of a messy workers so<br />
I'm gonna take some of this masking film<br />
and put that along and I'll put that<br />
below the accent stripe and I'll use<br />
regular masking tape to get just above<br />
the accent stripe the the goal is to<br />
have the masking tape and the edge of<br />
the masking tape above the line wrapping<br />
down below so it's covering the line I'm<br />
gonna leave a little bit of the natural<br />
wood showing above the accent stripe and<br />
the accent stripes going to have a<br />
little bit of act of natural wood color<br />
on either side just a skosh I<br />
specifically chose a high contrast wood<br />
on either side of the accent stripe here<br />
so if I don't get color all the way to<br />
the accent strike it'll still look right<br />
because there'll be a nice sharp<br />
contrast there again the goal is to come<br />
by with the masking film so I don't<br />
spill any stain down the side of the<br />
boat and I'm going to do the bottom<br />
first which is the lighter colors so if<br />
I do end up getting stained on the side<br />
of the boat it'll be a lighter color and<br />
any in the darker stain should hide it<br />
but again I'm going to try and mask it<br />
off and protect it with this masking<br />
I'm gonna use this light red mahogany<br />
stain on the bottom and I'll use a<br />
darker blood-red on the sides on the top<br />
we've got a clean rag I'm gonna put the<br />
stain on the rag fairly heavy and wet<br />
wipe down the whole boat and then come<br />
back with denatured alcohol and wipe<br />
down the boat again this is an<br />
alcohol-based stain so it dries really<br />
quickly as such a tends to blotch so by<br />
coming back with a wet alcohol rag I can<br />
even out the color<br />
[Music]<br />
I'll let that dry and then to the side<br />
now with the bottom stain dry I'll mask<br />
off the accent strip on the other side<br />
and then to the side of the boat<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
I'm using a blood red for the side and<br />
the deck so it should be some contrast<br />
between the side and the bottom but you<br />
know still reddish<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
well it's good I will let that dry and<br />
[Music]<br />
we'll get some fiberglass on the boat so<br />
you may know that I make my living<br />
primarily through the sale of plans to<br />
build your own small boats such as this<br />
kayak and other boats I have so if your<br />
boss told you to stay home and do some<br />
social distancing and quarantine in<br />
place and you've been looking to build a<br />
boat<br />
now maybe is your chance unfortunately<br />
it looks like we may have a lot of time<br />
when we've got to stay away from people<br />
and maybe it's a good time to just be in<br />
your shop and hang out and work on an<br />
interesting project so if that projects<br />
building boat I have plans available<br />
come by my website check it out see what<br />
I've what I've got otherwise whatever<br />
you have just a nice time to be in the<br />
shop and keep away from people but<br />
seriously and more importantly it's the<br />
time to stay safe and keep your same<br />
family safe and do what you need to do<br />
wash your hands buy more toilet paper or<br />
whatever you need to do so until the<br />
next episode stay safe thanks for<br />
watching and happy paddling<br />
</div>
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Sun, 12 Apr 2020 17:49:16 +0000nick4183 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comCompleting The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/strip-built/sea-kayak/petrel/completing-deck-petrel-kayak-build-e6
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Completing The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E6</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Thu, 02/27/2020 - 15:39</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Here I trim off the strips at the feature line, add an accent strip along the trimmed edges and then complete the stripping of the rest of the deck</p>
<p>This is the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/strip-built/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel" title="Petrel">Strip Built Petrel</a> design.</p>
<p>Support my Patreon at: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade">https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade</a></p>
<p>Tools:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mini Shoulder Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/64300-veritas-miniature-shoulder-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/p…</a></li>
<li>Verita Side Rabbet Plane: <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=60012&cat=1,41182">http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=60012&cat=1,41182</a></li>
<li>Wood River Side Rabbet Plane (not as good as Veritas, but more affordable) <a href="http://amzn.to/2CvRa4f">http://amzn.to/2CvRa4f</a></li>
<li>Stanley #79 (Ebay): <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-79-Side-Rabbet-Plane">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-79-Side-Rabbet-Plane</a></li>
<li>kunz #79 (crappy castings but with love it would work great) <a href="https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx">https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunz79siderabbetplane.aspx</a></li>
<li>Low Angle Block Plane: <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes&node=4063">https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=handplanes…</a></li>
<li>Apron Plane: <a href="https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/46791-veritas-apron-plane">https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/block/4679…</a></li>
<li>RoboBevel: <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel-strip-built-boat-beveling-tool">https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/boat-building-tools/robo-bevel…</a></li>
<li>T-50 Stapler: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0">https://amzn.to/2U7XjA0</a></li>
<li>Bostitch Heavy Duty Staple Remover: <a href="https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L">https://amzn.to/2Gy8F8L</a> 9/16"</li>
<li>T-50 Staples: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw">https://amzn.to/2RDOyfw</a></li>
<li>Craftsman Cutting Sheers: <a href="https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW">https://amzn.to/36Cr5PW</a></li>
<li>Heavy Duty Hot Melt Glue Gun: <a href="https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ">https://amzn.to/2U3c9YJ</a></li>
<li>1" Spring Clamps: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy">https://amzn.to/3aP8fZy</a></li>
<li>Green high-stick Tape: <a href="https://amzn.to/317aLFV">https://amzn.to/317aLFV</a></li>
<li>Titebond Glue: <a href="https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP">https://amzn.to/3aOhSaP</a></li>
<li>4-oz Boston Round Squeeze Glue Bottles: <a href="https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B">https://amzn.to/2RAYK8B</a></li>
</ul>
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<div class="panel-body">Hey welcome to the Guillemot kayaks<br />
workshop I'm Nick Schade I design and<br />
build small boats primarily kayaks but<br />
also canoes row boats anything that you<br />
can put on top of a car I've been<br />
designing boats since the 1980s of and<br />
Gilmar kayaks was have been around since<br />
1993 I've written a couple books about<br />
building boats primarily with the strip<br />
building method and I've written<br />
articles for wooden boat magazines sea<br />
kayak or Backlund and existed and with<br />
my company Gill my kayaks I sell plans<br />
and instructions for people to build<br />
their own boats and all my designs are<br />
offered as kits to Chesapeake like craft<br />
in this episode I'll finish up stripping<br />
up the deck and get to the point where<br />
I'm about ready to put in the cockpit<br />
recess I'll start off with putting in an<br />
accent along the feature lines on the<br />
deck and then I'll fill in the remaining<br />
strips so without further ado let's get<br />
right to it<br />
I didn't make this strip long enough so<br />
I've got a little gap right here I'm<br />
just gonna glue another piece in there<br />
fill that in and it's such a small piece<br />
if I don't have a perfect fit nobody<br />
will notice so most of it will get<br />
trimmed off<br />
[Music]<br />
I didn't here's where I put that little<br />
extra bit in this is a glue the super<br />
glue right there so it's like a 32nd or<br />
64th wide at that point goes out to<br />
about there<br />
really all that did was fill a cove in<br />
on this strip so when I glued this down<br />
there wasn't a gap there<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so I cut these calming recess pieces on<br />
my CNC machine it's just a quick way to<br />
do it but I didn't get it on video so<br />
what I'm just gonna do is pre assemble<br />
this recess just to bend these around<br />
here like that put a little tape on it<br />
then super glue it together and then<br />
work on installing it on the deck of the<br />
boat<br />
I cut this recess sill piece with the<br />
grain going across like this that<br />
happened to be the way it fit in my<br />
plywood the best structurally when it's<br />
all done it's going to be fine but right<br />
now it's a little delicate because this<br />
short grain right across here so I'm<br />
just taking a little bit of a masking<br />
tape and sticking it down on this is a<br />
whole thing to bind the that grain<br />
together a little bit more give it a<br />
little bit of reinforcement you know<br />
I'll be delicate with it but just added<br />
insurance<br />
I remembered as I was gluing this up and<br />
I'm gonna stain everything and it might<br />
be a problem later because this will act<br />
as resist in here this super glue but I<br />
have some solutions I think we'll see<br />
how it works out right now before I<br />
install this bit I want to work on<br />
beveling this edge right now that edge<br />
is angled out through the square edge of<br />
the cut and want to bevel it down and a<br />
little bit inward so when I go to press<br />
it into the deck it has a squeezing<br />
tight fit there so I want to go all the<br />
way around<br />
this edge here blend this in a little<br />
bit here and there and get this a little<br />
bit more vertical for the installed unit<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
this recess is going to drop in here<br />
something like so but in order to make<br />
that fit I first got a couple an<br />
approximation of the hole that's going<br />
to drop into so I have a paper pattern<br />
here which will lay up something like<br />
this<br />
and that'll guide me on where to make<br />
the cut<br />
so I'll tape this in place but I want to<br />
get the staples out of the way first so<br />
they're not interfering with the fare so<br />
I'm just going to remove the staples<br />
from this area this heavy-duty Bostitch<br />
a staple remover is pretty nice it's a<br />
model g27 w staple remover from stanley<br />
Bostitch one thing about it basically<br />
you have this flat surface to press<br />
against the wood so it doesn't dimple<br />
the wood and you just stick the little<br />
tooth there under it push down on the<br />
lever and it lifts that staple right out<br />
of there<br />
this little tooth here you see is on a<br />
screw it can come out and you can<br />
sharpen this little tooth to make it<br />
easier to get under some of the staples<br />
I have not yet done that with this so I<br />
think I'm going to do that make it a<br />
little bit easier to get into the some<br />
of the staples that were a little too<br />
close to the wood<br />
I didn't make a knife sharp but just<br />
tried to make it a little bit easier to<br />
slide under the staple so it still has a<br />
bit of a square edge there but it's down<br />
a little bit lower good way to start so<br />
just get the tooth under the scape a<br />
little bit start wiggling it up take it<br />
out off the staple avoid trying to dig<br />
in like this that'll leave a divot in<br />
the wood little horseshoe shape that'll<br />
leave a mark that will be hard to sand<br />
out just try and slide it horizontally<br />
in and once you get it hooked in a<br />
little bit a little wiggle pull it out<br />
so be a little careful that you don't<br />
end up with a staple hanging off the<br />
bottom here like this sometimes when you<br />
go to dump it out it stays on there and<br />
you end up pressing that staple down<br />
into the wood as you go to pull the next<br />
staple out so your little careful with<br />
that<br />
seems to be in the ballpark I'm going to<br />
cut it out with a saber saw with the<br />
really fine tooth blade in there I don't<br />
want to cut through the form so I'll<br />
just go in between the forms and use a<br />
handsaw<br />
to get at the forms and again I don't<br />
want to cut too strong back so I'll come<br />
up to here and stop going to here and<br />
stop this is gonna sit in there about<br />
like this you'll see it's starting to<br />
hit this spacer in the strong back and<br />
when it's all the way in it's going to<br />
hit that it will not hit the strong back<br />
itself though it's just the spacer so<br />
I'd like to remove the spacer and in<br />
order to do that I need to move this<br />
form and in order to do that and go into<br />
some of the other forms I'll move the<br />
staples from these three forms that way<br />
so that's about enough for this episode<br />
in the next episode we'll put in the<br />
cockpit recess and see how far we get<br />
with that if you're interested in<br />
building your own boat like this head<br />
over to my website Gilliam at kayaks<br />
calm I've got plans and instructions<br />
there for this design and a bunch of<br />
other designs and there's probably a<br />
boat there suitable for your needs if<br />
you'd like to provide some direct<br />
support for these videos I've got a<br />
patreon site you can chip in a buck or<br />
two a month just to help the production<br />
of these videos if you don't want to do<br />
any of that but you like these videos<br />
and you want to see more of them hit<br />
subscribe like my facebook page share<br />
with your friends turn on notifications<br />
all that good stuff so until the next<br />
episode thanks for watching and happy<br />
paddling.</div>
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Thu, 27 Feb 2020 20:39:04 +0000nick4179 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comBuilding the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kitshttps://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/stitch-and-glue/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/stitch-and-glue-petrel-stitch-and-glue-petrel-play-0
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Building the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kits</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Wed, 02/26/2020 - 19:24</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p><a href="https://clcboats.com">Chesapeake Light Craft</a> captured this time lapse video of building the <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/stitch-and-glue/sea-kayak-surfing/petrel-sg" title="Petrel SG">Petrel SG</a> and <a href="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/stitch-and-glue/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak/petrel-play-sg" title="Petrel &quot;Play&quot; SG">Petrel Play SG</a> back in a class I taught down at their Annapolis shop. We started out with a bare kit which is just a pile of CNC cut pieces of plywood and after the end of five and half days the students walk out with a fully assembled kayak ready for finish work.</p>
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Thu, 27 Feb 2020 00:24:24 +0000nick4178 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.comGluing the Shafts Together and Finishinghttps://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/gluing-shafts-together-and-finishing
<span class="field field--name-title field--type-string field--label-hidden">Gluing the Shafts Together and Finishing</span>
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</div><span class="field field--name-uid field--type-entity-reference field--label-hidden"><span lang="" about="https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/user/4" typeof="schema:Person" property="schema:name" datatype="" xml:lang="">nick</span></span>
<span class="field field--name-created field--type-created field--label-hidden">Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:27</span>
<div class="clearfix text-formatted field field--name-body field--type-text-with-summary field--label-hidden field__item"><p>I like to do most of the work before gluing the scarf on the shaft together. This just keeps the parts easy to handle while doing the work.</p>
<p>Since the paddle shaft is a bit oval, the scarf does not fit together in a perfect match, you will need to eyeball it a bit to make sure the two halves are straight and true before the glue sets up.</p>
<p>You can then finish shaping the shafts in the scarf area and start the finish sanding process. </p>
<p>Coat everything with a coat of epoxy after it is all smooth. This serves as a solid base for the protective coating.</p>
<p>Before the final finish coats give the whole paddle a through sanding up to at least 220 grit sandpaper.</p>
<p>In this case I use a 2-part automotive style clear coat that is available from Amazon, but you can also use a more traditional marine spar varnish.</p>
<p>The finished is lightweight and strong. I prefer the feel of wood in my hands over fiberglass or carbon fiber. Especially in the winter it feels warm and comfortable.</p>
<p>Happy Paddling!</p>
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<p><br />
Assembling the scarf on the feathered<br />
paddles is a little bit tricky since the<br />
angles are weird things don't line up in<br />
a logical obvious way so the best thing<br />
you can do is do some dry fits play with<br />
it a little bit and what it's going to<br />
come down to is just eyeballing it<br />
trying to see that the paddle is<br />
straight a couple things I try and do I<br />
try and line up the tips of the cut here<br />
with the end of the scarf cut here<br />
approximately the tip of this broken off<br />
a little bit but that will give you a<br />
rough guide and then trying to sort of<br />
split the difference on any error on one<br />
side versus the other what makes these<br />
particularly tricky is the shafts aren't<br />
square so their dimensions through the<br />
spine are different than their dimension<br />
across the shaft so things don't line up<br />
in the way you might imagine so the<br />
first thing I do is just scuff up this<br />
scarf cut with a little bit of sandpaper<br />
just just open the pores a little bit<br />
make it so the glue is gonna adhere<br />
better and then just put it together and<br />
you'll find that there's sort of a wider<br />
side and a narrower side if you put the<br />
clamp on the narrower side it tends to<br />
want to squirt it out so if you stick it<br />
on the wider side and this is due to the<br />
fact that it's at a non 90-degree angle<br />
and again we're going to try and line up<br />
these points here a little bit<br />
just trying to look at the amount of<br />
wood showing on the scarf he ever see<br />
his mountain wood on the scarf here try<br />
and make that fairly even I'm gonna just<br />
look down the shaft try and see if it's<br />
straight and if it needs a little<br />
adjusting so again I'm doing this dry<br />
right now just to get a feel for it<br />
you know once the glue gets on it's<br />
gonna be a whole lot slippery er and<br />
harder to have everything stay in place<br />
so just getting a feel for what you're<br />
gonna have to accomplish once the glue<br />
is on there makes life better you can<br />
then take a pencil and make a few marks<br />
here just to help you get a sense of<br />
where it's gonna have to go when you put<br />
it back together then we'll use a<br />
waterproof wood glue and it on here<br />
spread it around a bit<br />
and see it's much slippery right now<br />
and then wants to slide lengthwise<br />
once you get it lined up put it aside<br />
and come back and check it in a few<br />
minutes make sure it's still straight<br />
now that the glue is dry I want to blend<br />
in the scarf joint here so basically I'm<br />
just going to aim down towards the flats<br />
here so take this point down to the flat<br />
here take this point down to the flat<br />
there and likewise all the way around<br />
and then start blending in the radius so<br />
I have a radius here I'll start blending<br />
that in and radius here start blending<br />
that in and just merge it all together<br />
once I've got the scarf rounded out or<br />
at least roughly rounded out I want to<br />
start refining the overall shape of the<br />
shaft and I'd like it egg shaped so I'd<br />
like when you grip the paddle to the<br />
knuckles would be a little bit narrower<br />
on that side than it is on the palm side<br />
it's already a little bit oblong in that<br />
it's thicker this way than it is this<br />
way so it's wider or taller than it is<br />
thick so it's got an oval shape which<br />
will help index you the hand to more<br />
obvious where the blade orientation is<br />
going to be but also it's just a little<br />
bit more comfortable if it's a little<br />
bit egg-shaped and a little bit narrower<br />
so this part of the hand is in the<br />
narrower spot and this is a little bit<br />
beefier spot so the first thing I'm<br />
doing is I'm just going to go ahead and<br />
so concentrate on that side of the<br />
paddle with the plane so I'm tapering it<br />
in slightly towards the back face of the<br />
paddle that's being the back face front<br />
face so I'm tapering it slightly towards<br />
the back face then once that's tapered<br />
in there now I can start working on<br />
getting rid of any sharp edges so again<br />
I used two one inch diameter round over<br />
bit half inch radius to start this round<br />
over but I've got inch and a quarter by<br />
inch and an eighth here so it left some<br />
flat spots top bottom left right I want<br />
to get rid of those flat spots so I'm<br />
just going to start blending that<br />
a little bit and I find a variety of<br />
tools actually worked pretty well for<br />
this right now I've got a Nicholson rasp<br />
the block plane works one of these<br />
shinto wood rasps works pretty nice and<br />
I have these Japanese float style planes<br />
that's all depending on which wood<br />
you're working on some will work better<br />
than others<br />
so I like to have them all out and I'll<br />
sometimes they'll just change because<br />
I'm bored I want to get rid of the flat<br />
spot on the top edge here in the bottom<br />
edge and this will all blend in a nice<br />
smooth curve Sitka spruce is a tough<br />
wood and as a result it does get a<br />
little bit of tear out it'll pay<br />
attention to the grain<br />
the final arbiter of whether you've<br />
shaped it well is if it feels good to<br />
the hand that's the only thing that's<br />
really going to matter in the long run<br />
is if it feels good to your hand because<br />
your hands going to be touching this all<br />
the time you're using it and if it feels<br />
good it is good<br />
I found one of the better ways of<br />
getting a really round shaft or smoothly<br />
rounded shaft is the shoeshine method<br />
I'm going to start with some 50 grit<br />
here and work up to higher grits and<br />
you'll see with how it goes<br />
[Music]<br />
[Music]<br />
so I ended up putting two coats of epoxy<br />
on all the blades and the paddle shafts<br />
just to make sure I had a good level<br />
surface there get that sanded smooth and<br />
it'll look really nice and the epoxy is<br />
like the best primer you can put on the<br />
shaft as far as something that clear<br />
coats will bond to really well and bonds<br />
the wood really well so at this point<br />
I'm going to sand everything smooth get<br />
it ready for the clear coat I could use<br />
a varnish on it but I'm planning on<br />
using the same two-part rattle key and<br />
stuff that I used on the micro<br />
bootlegger sport I think it'll be a good<br />
tough finish for the paddles lasts a<br />
long time and it gives me a chance to<br />
actually use something that I've used<br />
that product on and see for myself<br />
really how well at last I've only used<br />
that for customer products before so<br />
that's my plan and the good a good teach<br />
one nice and it finished should be a<br />
good place to start applying that clear<br />
coat so I will start at a 120 to level<br />
the surface and work on left with the<br />
power face of blade first that will be<br />
the easiest to just get leveled down<br />
I'll do some power sanding on the back<br />
but with all the contours the power<br />
saying there's not quite as effective<br />
where I need to get into the details a<br />
little bit more I'll crank down the<br />
speed on the power of Sanders so I don't<br />
end up burning through this epoxy<br />
finished and then from there I'll go on<br />
to hand sanding and I'll do the 120 and<br />
then go to 220 you'll see I've got some<br />
little clamps here on my sawhorses it<br />
just sort of tame the paddle so I don't<br />
have to hold on to it while I'm singing<br />
[Music]</p>
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Tue, 25 Feb 2020 00:27:08 +0000nick4176 at https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com