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I have the same problem. It started about a week ago and I have to keep flicking the on switch to get it finally working. I think there's a problem with the contact with the base. Not sure if it's worth getting a replacement part for it. It worked well for 4+ yrs!

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Related Questions:

Hi, the query is a little confusing. Can you please clarify what is not coming on, how the timing is relevant and what the make and model and year of your vehicle is. Please add the detail and resubmit the query

It could be the heating element inside the machine. Or I could be the water pump. The water pump pushes the water into a chamber where it is heated up before it goes into the cup. If there is a manual near by, read the part under water pump.

Best place to start is the positive lead on the battery . Remove the lead and clean battery pole and terminal using sand paper until you have shiny syrfaces. Replace the lead and tighten the terminal . Check the battery for charge condition as what you describe indicates a flat battery

do the following steps: God bless youTo start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE
& HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button.
When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end
test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator
lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and
hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed,
CLEAN light also comes on.To start testing, press both POWER
SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has
ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be
lit:POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater faultREGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC faultTo
check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing
until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current
going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit
and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high
limit or flow switch are faulty.If water level switch (f1) has
failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will
continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow
switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water
won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE
& HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly
after water has started circulating.If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out
before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from
Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell
tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being
open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also
has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle
after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the
element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They
protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element
temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case
where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these
are the likely culprit. In my kettle the contacts did not line up
correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially
overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings
from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance
and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the
surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element
behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out
of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal
switch.I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused
into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it
will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal
switch.I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.