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replace the brushes in the motor _around 20 quid and usually the first thing to start messing up when the brushes get short is the fast spin _UNPLUG IT FIRST. you might also like to clean up the com with a bit of wet and dry

Suggestion: WARNING: POWER OFF and UNPLUG WASHER. There areintentionally ungrounded areas inside machine. Behind the kick panel at the bottom of the front (Two screws on the bottom front of the panel) you will find the Technical Data Sheet for the washer. Follow the instructions for running Diagnostics on page 2. When u get to step 9 the washer will test the spin cycle (give it a minute or so to start). That will at least see if your belt theory is correct. I am NOT a washer tech so I am only telling you what I have done with the same problem. I have not yet repaired it as this is a new problem, but the diags gave me an error code I am seeking info on now. Good luck!

remove the toe kick panel at the bottom of your washer and inside you will find the drain pump. once you locate the pump, pull washer from wall so you can tilt it back against the wall. Then remove the cap in the front of the drain pump and clean, if it is clean , set washer back down and remove the wires from pump motor. set your multimeter to VAC and plug into wires. set the washer to drain&spin and start. if you have 120 volts replace the drain pump. if you have no voltage replace main control. go to this guidance and location of parts. http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=WFW8400TE&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0

Check your drain the drain hose must be higher that the tub or it will run down the drain.
It must be going down the drain or you would have water all over the floor If the water is coming in it has to go somwhere. In rinse cycle it should stay in the tub until the timer kicks it into drain and spin.

By lifting the lid you are performing the job of the timer. In your unit you have a neutral drain transmission and the timer is programmed to end the washing cycle by stopping the motor. When it starts back up, it reverses and the transmission is in the neutral state. The water drains and after about 3-4 minutes, the timer is suppose to disconnect power to the motor thus stopping the transmission inducing the transmission to shift into spin. When it starts back up, it spins. So when you lift the lid, you pause the motor and the transmission shifts. Close it and it spins. Replace the timer and you will be fine. If I can help further.....

Thanks for the question On a ge washer If you over load or the washer did not drain fast enough or over suds ing , when the washer starts to spin the forse of the spin will push water up the pressure switch hose causing the washer to start & stop spinning Thanks for the question THe appliance doc

If it is draining, then the motor is ok.
If it is agitating properly, then the motor coupler is ok.
This leaves the gearcase, clutch, basketdrive(brake), basket drive block, or timer.

Raise the lid and hold the lid switch down. Start a rinse cycle and let it go through the cycle. It should drain the water, then stop the motor for a split second then kick the motor back in and start spinning. If it doesn't drop out that split second then the timer is holding it in neutral drain. You can recreate this by letting it start draining, then let off the lid switch, then depressing it again. The basket should start spinning. If not,

Raise the lid and hold the lid switch closed. Start it in spin and see if you can get it started spinning by hand. If so you probably have a slipping clutch.
Post back with any questions.
You can go to sears.com, click on parts, and enter your model number and see parts diagrams of the washer. This can be helpful.

try opening the filter which located mostly in the lower area of the front side. An acumilation of dirt and calc will inhibit the complete drain of water. After opening and cleaning the filter, put it back in. Once it will drain completly, it will start spinning.
Hope I assist you with the problem.