Route notes

Starting under the nose of the Sugar Loaf mountain, this long but steady route skirts the English-Welsh border through the Black Mountains and over the steep Gospel Pass to Hay-on-Wye, the "town of books". Trees meet above the quiet winding road as it leaves civilisation behind and snakes up into the soft, sheep-dotted hills before opening out in the Vale of Ewyas. It then rises over the Gospel Pass before rolling down to the wide flat land below.

Terrain and gradients

The tarmac road isn't too steep until you get past Llanthony and climb the 200m to the Gospel Pass, but it is long and requires a bit of stamina. Watch out for cars and motorbikes at blind bends when heading into the Black Mountains.

How to get there/away

Trains between Hereford and Abergavenny can take two bikes free. Booking is recommended (0870 900 0773). But to get from Hay-on-Wye to Hereford, or to return to Abergavenny, you need to either cycle or take the coach (Stagecoach in South Wales), which only allows folding bikes.

What to see

The Augustinian Llanthony priory, built in the 13th century, fell into ruin after abandonment during the Owain Glyndwr (left) rebellion in the 15th century. What is left is an interesting mix of Norman and gothic architectural styles.

The name of Gospel Pass, which squeezes between the peaks of Hay Bluff and Twmpa (Lord Hereford's Knob), derives from the 12th-century crusaders who travelled this way, preaching and raising funds.

Watering holes

Llanthony Priory hotel, part of the original building, has lovely old, low wooden beams and serves hearty food and good ales. Llanthony village's other pub, the Half Moon Hotel, serves the delicious but dangerously strong ale Bullmastiff Son of a Bitch.

Upon arrival in Hay-on-Wye you won't be at a loss for fine and well-deserved refreshments. Check out the Three Tuns restaurant and bar, which has featured in the Michelin guide three years in a row as one of the best dining pubs in Britain.