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From the factory your car already has camber bolts on the front (top bolt). That is all you need unless you want to run more than around -1.4ish degrees of camber. You will need aftermarket camber bolts if you want to run more than that (bottom bolt).

If you are installing RCE yellows then yes the LCA's are optional. Most people get about -2 degrees of rear camber after fitting those springs. If you want more or less than that you need to purchase LCA's. There is no way from the factory to adjust the rear camber.

I've read threads on NASIOC but there seems to be mixed input on whether or not its needed.

I believe the LCA are optionally but not 100% on the camber bolts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harey

From the factory your car already has camber bolts on the front (top bolt). That is all you need unless you want to run more than around -1.4ish degrees of camber. You will need aftermarket camber bolts if you want to run more than that (bottom bolt).

If you are installing RCE yellows then yes the LCA's are optional. Most people get about -2 degrees of rear camber after fitting those springs. If you want more or less than that you need to purchase LCA's. There is no way from the factory to adjust the rear camber.

You'll gain a couple tenths of negative camber at the rear with yellows and that will throw your rear camber out of factor spec in most cases.

It's nothing to be overly concerned about.

It will make the limit cornering balance worse than factory by some marginal amount, but it's the plowing understeer kind of worse so its "safe" and you're unlikely to notice it street driving.

That said if you still have the factory alignment in the front (typically -0.8deg camber) and have the negative camber maxxed out with your alignment afterwards (roughly -1.3 deg when lowered), overall your balance will be better.