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Ortea Palace

A magnificent Mussolini-era post office transformed into an opulent light-flooded palace commanding the bridge that crosses from the town of Syracuse to the island of Ortigia. The heart and soul of the hotel is a luminous glass-roofed salon, occupying the courtyard where postal vans once used to load.

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Rooms from

£251per night

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Location

8/10

Ortigia is one of Sicily's hotspots, an island of twisty cobbled streets and disarming piazzas studded with fabulous Baroque churches and palaces – along with a medieval castle, a couple of ancient Greek temples and an abundance of pavement cafés, chic bars, restaurants and boutiques.

The Ortea Palace stands right at its entrance, towering above the little canal where fishing boats bob, with 360-degree views across the sea to the Iblean mountains on one side, and Mount Etna on the other. It's an oasis of calm – yet just a minutes' walk from Ortigia's vibrant morning produce market.

Style & character

7/10

Fascist-era archictecture was designed to intimidate, and it's no easy trick to pull off a transformation that makes guests feel at ease and pampered, but the Ortea has succeeded. The old courtyard has metamorphosed into a gleaming light space with soft acoustics, an eye-catching onyx bar, and lots of super-comfortable easy chairs upholstered in Missoni-style zigzags. Fresh fronds of papyrus – Syracuse is one of the few places in Europe where papyrus grows wild – along with a personal selection of Sicilian antiques and commissioned artworks create an air of subtle, even understated opulence.

Don't miss the extraordinary pair of Venetian glass chandeliers in the corner towers, or the lion-carved reception desk where generations of Siracusans once queued to collect their pensions.

Service & facilities

8/10

Service is unfailingly attentive but not intrusive and staff are efficient, enthusiastic and full of smiles. We loved the way we were welcomed with a bespoke aperitivo at the bar while staff dealt with our check-in. As well as the courtyard restaurant and bar, a more formal, rooftop restaurant with breath-taking views is due to open.

A spa, with sauna, Turkish bath, treatment rooms and small, brilliantly mosaic pool (more for lounging than swimming) occupy the basement, along with the aptly-named Cloud – you lie on it and are relaxed with a combination of chromo-therapy, vibrational waves and Buddhist mantras.

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Rooms

9/10

Of the 75 rooms and 46 suites, among the best are the gracious, spacious white marble junior suites, set on two levels. Suite 209 featured duck egg-blue velvet upholstery in the downstairs sitting room, with television, minibar, kettle, Nespresso machine, dressing room and bathroom with rain-head shower and Etro toiletries.

A white marble staircase leads up to a romantic mezzanine with intoxicating views from the king-sized bed, and contemporary free-standing tub. There's a second bathroom here, with loo and bidet. If you want to really splash out, there is a range of super-luxe Penthouse suites on the top floor.