Here's what we did with our front bumper fabrication. We found that the rubber guards on the shackles help cut down on any noise -- something to try perhaps.

also, the side protection (sliders) we developed can easily be used to stand on and reach the top of the van. it's true, the original jack mounts are no longer accessible but the integrated hi lift jack mounts on the sliders are useable for table mounts, etc_________________MULE Expedition Outfitters
Specializing in Overland Equipment & Accessories
www.dasmule.com

Here's what we did with our front bumper fabrication. We found that the rubber guards on the shackles help cut down on any noise -- something to try perhaps.

also, the side protection (sliders) we developed can easily be used to stand on and reach the top of the van. it's true, the original jack mounts are no longer accessible but the integrated hi lift jack mounts on the sliders are useable for table mounts, etc

Here's what we did with our front bumper fabrication. We found that the rubber guards on the shackles help cut down on any noise -- something to try perhaps.

also, the side protection (sliders) we developed can easily be used to stand on and reach the top of the van. it's true, the original jack mounts are no longer accessible but the integrated hi lift jack mounts on the sliders are useable for table mounts, etc

I realize that I live in a much wetter climate than some of you guys in the states (ie: AZ, CA, TX, etc) but has anyone had any long term experience with mounting a winch below the van and water crossings or mud?

I hope that this question won't veer off the topic of my bumper build too much. Its just that I have been debating if I should mount my winch on top of the bumper, under the van, or leave it removable with front and rear 2" receivers._________________AllTerrainOverland.com

I realize that I live in a much wetter climate than some of you guys in the states (ie: AZ, CA, TX, etc) but has anyone had any long term experience with mounting a winch below the van and water crossings or mud?

I hope that this question won't veer off the topic of my bumper build too much. Its just that I have been debating if I should mount my winch on top of the bumper, under the van, or leave it removable with front and rear 2" receivers.

Being that I got 3 responses to the winch question with in 25 minutes of posting it I think that there may be enough interest to start a topic for the winch discussion. Especially because I would like to see pics and vids too

After winches and towing... back to the heart of this thread. Bumpers!

Some new pics.

Sorry only 2 pics for now that the fabricator emailed me today but he will be bringing over Friday or Saturday for a fitting. We have had to lessen the angle on the sides a bit to maintain a closer fit and after comparing to our last one that I posted pics of, I think that this one may actually have a better look to it. I promise to post pics of it on the van as soon as I get it here for the final fitting.

My initial plans were to go with an all out ARB style bumper with steeper side angles and such. However things have changed and I would like all of your opinions. During a recent off road trip a frozen log demonstrated how strong the 1 inch pinch welded seam on the bottom of the crumple zone really is and now having a bumper that can glide over obstacles without catching the lip is added to the priority list.

My original want list was as follows:

1. Must maintain the factory approach and departure angles without removal of the crash zone.

2. Must have D rings or Shackle mounts for towing.

3. It should be winch compatible.

4. It should be skid plate compatible. For custom skid plates.

5. The corners should be angled to prevent digging in while off road.

6. The rear bumper must have a high clearance 2" receiver.

I have made some amendments to the list:

1. Must maintain the factory approach and departure angles without removal of the crash zone.

2. Must have Shackle mounts.

3. It should be winch compatible.

4. It should be skid plate compatible. For custom skid plates.

5. The corners should be angled to prevent digging in while off road.

6. The both must have a high clearance 2" receiver.

7. The bottom of the bumper must extend far enough to cover the lip (pinch welded seam) under the front bumper.

8. The bumper must weigh under 60lbs.

________ _________ ________ ________

Both Matt and myself did not expect the R&D to take as many hours as it has. We have looked at the ARB style design from all angles and without the crush zone it could be accomplished very easily but not while keeping it intact.

I am sure that some will be disappointed in this compared to what we had going before but I like to put function over form and after seeing the simpler bumper design on the van I am actually very happy with the end result.

Just going purely by aesthetics, I like the shape and proportions of your original the best. But I agree that preserving the original crash beam in it's unmodified form is important. Your latest bumper still looks very good and I like the way it fits so perfectly around the structure. It may not look quite as trim as the original, but it's a good compromise. I think you're seriously on to something good here. Like Dylan I'm excited to see what you do with the rear.

I'm in for a set, with skid plate and light bar to fit 4 Hella's. I assume the receiver on the front will be mounted on the top? Definitely worth the drive from Nelson to the coast...._________________Fritz - '86 Syncro Tintop, Camper interior
Toaster - '91 Multivan Westy, 4sp.

The front will be getting a 2" receiver and I am still going to pin point where exactly I want it but I am leaning towards mounting it in the dead center and as high as possible in the bumper. This does mean that a 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" section must be cut out of the front of the crush zone but will not impact its function.

For the rear bumper I would like to stick to a design very similar to what I had envisioned for the front and since there is nothing to get in the way on the rear I plan on reusing the pieces from the first ARB style prototype to build the rear.

As for skid plates, I am working on front and rear skid plates as well as a bolt on item that will mount behind the pinch welded piece under the crush zone that should prevent it from getting the van hung up on objects when trying to back off of them._________________AllTerrainOverland.com

So down the road once you have all of these parts dialed and ready to go...
Could some of the pieces be made from aluminum by the builder?
Bumpers and clamshell replacements would be what I would want.
More for an onroad Syncro and its appearance than off road abilities .

So down the road once you have all of these parts dialed and ready to go...
Could some of the pieces be made from aluminum by the builder?
Bumpers and clamshell replacements would be what I would want.
More for an onroad Syncro and its appearance than off road abilities .

Yup, he can make them from steel or Aluminum. No problems.

As you have mentioned, the Alu won't be for serious off road rigs but fine for street rides._________________AllTerrainOverland.com

Nice! I really like the attention to keeping the pinch welds and sounds like you are onto making some bracket/clamped brace that takes them out of the equation for offroading so you can reverse over things without the pinch weld hanging up.

Hopefully, you'll have the front hitch mount optional as many won't want to cut into the crash structure. But if not, I guess even a non winch user will get an incredibly strong recovery point by using a WARN hitch stinger with huge included shackle. I have one and when things to to hell in a recovery I know I can put this in the stuck truck and then start hitting the end of the strap at 12mph, knowing I will not be pulling a recovery point off.

A comment about the weight. Don't let anyone bitch about the weight and cause you to use a thinner metal, fewer braces or forego the long span down to the pinch weld. There is one place extra weight should be encouraged, and that is in a heavy duty bumper intended to be dragged up a rocky ledge, scraped off a log, or accidentally nudged into a tree stump. So I say who cares if it weighs 60 or more pounds. Thinking customers know if you add 10 lbs of steel to this piece it will be for strength. And the truck will not even notice an extra 10 or even 20lbs. I'd gladly accept that extra steel reinforcing on a bumper I want to be tough. But I might not accept a lighter bumper that wrinkles and messes up the alignment of all the painstakingly aligned lights I bolted to it when I stuff the Syncro into a crusty snowbank.

In other words, damn the torpedoes, go the extra mile in strength and you'll get less bitching than you will if someone bends theirs on a mere dirt berm and comes crying back to Samba. The whole point is beefy, so don't go "Beefy Lite"...