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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010) The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

I can try and get you one if you need let me know. I saw a few just look up the part number.

I appreciate the info on the part seller. It is hard to find used parts for a BMW. Most junk yard sellers don't like selling off the smaller less expensive parts. There are quite a few failures for this particular part on the heater system, making me lean towards a new one. It is interesting that the coil is shorting out, not allowing a on vehicle repair.

Herb I got a used one because I don't know 100% if this part is the culprit.
I say this because when I first push the defrost button I here the blend doors moving and for a few seconds I feel lots of heat then it just blows cold air. So I could have multiple issues or maybe keep my fingers crossed this part will fix it. Got the part today in the mail I'll install it soon.

Don't laugh but as I first stated I had a small coolant leak toward the back of my engine. I thought the dreaded curse of the coolant pipe had hit. But after I fixed the heater control valve no more leak.
Can it be? Could the valve cause the pressures in certain areas to go high and leak? Very interesting? I looked at the hoses while doing the replacement and one hose was bone dry. What do you guys think???

Don't laugh but as I first stated I had a small coolant leak toward the back of my engine. I thought the dreaded curse of the coolant pipe had hit. But after I fixed the heater control valve no more leak.
Can it be? Could the valve cause the pressures in certain areas to go high and leak? Very interesting? I looked at the hoses while doing the replacement and one hose was bone dry. What do you guys think???

Hi I do not know how to do it but you should consider putting this in the DIY section, as it is an excellent bit of fault-finding to benefit others!!!

I know this thread goes way back now guys but it's been super-informative and based on the symptoms it seems very likely that I have this same issue. So I've bought a replacement heater valve one from eBay (guaranteed working) only £35 so can't complain. Anyway got a quick question: I was jut looking at the TIS instructions for it and the instructions for the preliminary tasks - namely disconnecting the water hose from heater and it seems like there's a special 'hose clip' that you need in order to do this. Do I need this special tool and am I right in thinking if I just disconnect the hoses from the valve coolant will simply gush everywhere?

If so could someone explain to me where it is under the bonnet that I need to disconnect the hoses from and how to clip the hose (if that does indeed need doing)??

You simply need to only unhook the attached hoses, & reconnect them. Remove the wiring connectors, then the mounting bolts. Hold the valve as high as possible, to prevent coolant loss. I can not remember any special hose clamps, but any screw clamp can be used to tighten the hose fittings. It is a pretty simple job!

You simply need to only unhook the attached hoses, & reconnect them. Remove the wiring connectors, then the mounting bolts. Hold the valve as high as possible, to prevent coolant loss. I can not remember any special hose clamps, but any screw clamp can be used to tighten the hose fittings. It is a pretty simple job!

Good Luck!

Okay gonna give this a go today / tomorrow and hope I don't pull out something I'm not supposed to ha.

SOmething mentioned in this thread - the aux water pump. Is this pump required in order to get heat into the cockpit during normal use? Or it is only required for "rest" mode? I've only just got my 650 and this pump does not work (fault code logged).