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well I just replaced the motor in my '03 wrx wagon and everything is running great but my clutch is not disengaging, it disengages enough so that the car will run in gear with the clutch in but I cant get into gear unless the car is off and when I start the car while in gear I can feel it jump forward a little. The fork is on the TOB and I tried bleeding the clutch. The suby dealer thinks I put the disk on backwards but I am pretty sure I didn't do that. Btw I put in a spec stg 1 clutch and resufaced the flywheel. I tried searchin the forums but all the threads I found had no answers. any tips or advice is greatly appreciated. thanks

my friend and I did the install. the clutch came with a new TOB and it is on the fork, each side of the fork goes in the tabs on the TOB. I am pretty sure the linkage is exactly the way it was when I took it off(can it really go any other way?). I really hope the disk isn't on backwards. It even had a sticker that said "fw". anyone know of any pics of the linkage? thanks for the fast replies.

Stranger things have happened than putting the linkage on wrong. One more thing, have you looked at adjusting the clutch pedal. ( just another thought) I hate to see you have to tear into the tranny. Big PITA to have to redo.

Jay-R

Quote:

Originally Posted by ride918

my friend and I did the install. the clutch came with a new TOB and it is on the fork, each side of the fork goes in the tabs on the TOB. I am pretty sure the linkage is exactly the way it was when I took it off(can it really go any other way?). I really hope the disk isn't on backwards. It even had a sticker that said "fw". anyone know of any pics of the linkage? thanks for the fast replies.

i am having the same problem with my sti. i had the flywheel resufaced and got a new exedy cerametallic stage 2 clutch kit. it wont disengage all the way. please help i dont want to take the car back apart if i dont have to. Thanks ,Travis

Try bleeding the cylinder. If that doesnt work probably a new slave cylinder is in order. I have had a couple of really tuff clutch installs with the same problems and both times it was the slave cylinder needed some serious bleeding and in 1 case the boot was shot so had to get a new slave cylinder.

I have changed many many suby clutches. Of course this only applies if the clutch and everything was installed correctly.

When bleeding the clutch cylinder you will need a friend just like bleeding the brakes they will have to pump the clutch pedal as fast as possible and all the way to the floor. Sometimes it even has to be done by hand instead of foot. As you fill the resevoir you can see the little pushrod that makes contact with the clutch fork, normally as you described the pushrod is not contacting the clutch fork or is not pushing it hard enough.

Also ensure that the clutch fork is correctly installed. You can remove the spring and slave cylinder and the clutch fork should be slightly loose and can be wiggled around and up and down. If it is tight the clutch fork pin may not be seated correctly. A lot of people have problems trying to get the pin in on the reinstall due to the alignment.

i have tryed that and i cant see how it could be installed wrong. it would only go in one way. thank you for the ideas. Is it ok to resuface an 05 sti flywheel. and does anyone know the specs for machining?

FYI- I have bled the clutch slave cylinder by myself from under the hood but I have a lot of experience, it is a PITA but can be done. But safer and easier to have someone pumping the clutch pedal by hand or foot or combination. Normally in this situation the pedal will stick to the floor until pulled up and pumped by hand enough to get the pushrod working by foot.

Bleeding the slave cylinder is not something that will take 5 minutes. It may take quite a while to get all of the air out. I know the fluid line is very short but it should be done patiently. On occassion I have used a couple bottles of fluid just to ensure the old fluid is all purged and the clutch works correctly.

is the slave cylinder in the clutch fork hole/dimple correctly??
i had one that i installed and didnt notice that i didnt put it in hole/dimple correctly and if i remember correctly clutch didnt release all the way.

Its gonna take you longer than you think. You need to keep trying, the last thing you want is to take it all apart.

Dealerships just want your $. A resurfacing has nothing to do with the clutch not engaging.

Ive been doing this for more than 20 years.

i think you mean disengaging dont you? if you dont cut the tabs where pressure plate bolts down then i could see engagment problem as flywheel surface and pressure plate surface will be out of spec and not allowing pressure plate to put full force on disk and let it slip, but this isnt his problem

but if you over cut the tabs/towers whatever there technically called on flywheel then you could have clutch that doesnt want to fully disengage.

as dibblejr is stating i would try to find the problem cause if someone else has to find it then its gonna cost you. bleeding clutch is free plus while your there look for other problems that you may have caused. you can move the boot away and look down into the clutch area to see if anything is wrong also