I'm wanting to build Quicksilver starting with an N gauge A4 Loco made by Graham Farish. Please can somebody comment and advise me on fitting Valences to the Farish cast alloy body. I'm aware that Langley do a kit but ive been advised that its thick and heavy, I was more thinking about Tinplate or Brass or Plasticard. Does anybody have knowledge of a retail paint to use for the silver / grey? Suggestions welcome

When I did my Mallard conversion many years ago, I put a very light coat of paint onto the running plate and then used that as a stamp to mark out the exact shape of the top of the valance on a piece of tracing paper. Once that was dry, I aligned the tracing paper as best as possible over some scaled down drawings (51.5% of 4mm scale for N) and drew in the lower part. I then sweated together a couple of bits of brass shim (0.2mm IIRC) and stuck the tracing paper over the top before roughly cutting out, leaving a c. 1mm border and the carefully filing to shape. I then separated the parts and stuck them onto the body (having cleaned off all the paint) with epoxy. Sorry, I don't have any pictures to hand as the model moved on some time ago and has been superseded by the Dapol versions.

With regard to paints, Phoenix Precision Paints will do the correct colours. You can order direct but many of the better model shops stock them. However, most of the small tinlets are only available in dull so you'll need to gloss varnish before applying transfers.

Thanks Steve for the method of accurate template making, I'm now looking at the valvgear as it sticks out. I'm wondering about chopping the cylinders outers from the screwplate and tipping them in a little. looking from the front it would look like an upsidedown letter V. This might give me the clearance yet the holes/rivets slop should leave all operation without resorting to bending the links. Any comments?
The Dapols look good however members at my club have had too many Dapol Steam Locos self destruct on the side linkeages hence me sticking with Farish old school.
Kind regards Tangoman

Thanks Steve for the input. I'm now questioning what to do about the valvegear that is sticking out too far. Im thinking of using an A3 valve / cylinder block, chopping the cylinder blocks off their centre flat tab and gluing back on at a small vee angle (like an upside down vee) to tuck the angled valve cranks in a bit and filing flats as needed on the cylinders to clear the valences. I think there is enough slop in the pivot pins to accept a 'bit of license' on operation as I dont fancy trying to straighten them out and rebend. Comments welcome.
Kind regards Tangoman