Lou Stoppard reports on the Versace show

Punk is definitely back. Blame the Met. But this is not punk as you know it according to Donatella, no this is something new. She's dubbed it, brace yourself, 'Vunk'.

The first two days of the Milan womenswear shows may have been hinting at a spirit of riot and rebellion, but today's Versace show put the debate to rest - punk is definitely back. Blame the Met. But this is not punk as you know it according to Donatella, no this is something new. She's dubbed it, brace yourself, 'Vunk' (undoubtedly a term that will be the most tweeted word of this season).

Her Autumn/Winter 2013 collection was aiming to create a fresh chapter in punk's history, one with a very Versace spin. So forget the do-it-yourself vibe of Westwood's punk, in Donatella's version bin-liners were skin-tight shiny vinyl dresses, biker jackets came with fur detailing created by American artists The Haas Brothers, and studs and chains came in the form of lethal decorative spikes on collars, belts and stilletos.

The press notes may have boldly declared that there were 'no references to the past', but, as was to be expected, the Gianni influence hung in the air as usual, not least in the iconic Versace palette of black, white, red and yellow. But it was pleasant to see Donatella attempt to shake off the weight of the heritage for a change. Punk is, after all, about freedom of expression, and one got the sense that Donatella had cut ties and let loose this season.