Baby Boomer Cooking

By Debra Daniels-Zeller

In the 1950s, most American
pantries included processed
and packaged foods,
according to Laura Shapiro in
Something From the Oven: Reinventing
Dinner in 1950s America.
Over the next decades, many
people ate an array of processed
foods in various recipes-Jell-O
salads, green bean casseroles, and
Kellogg's Rice Krispies treats are
just a few examples. Often recalled
with smiles, these classic recipes
conjure memories of learning to
cook, sock hops, and early rock
and roll music.

Packaged, processed ingredients
defined foods like Sloppy Joes,
Macaroni and Cheese, and Toll
House Chocolate Chip cookies.
Canned soup enhanced casseroles,
crushed potato or tortilla chips
topped them, and baking mixes
requiring eggs or oil made the
packaged product recipes seem
homemade. Shapiro says that
even gourmet chef James Beard
had acknowledged that some of
the mixes on the market were
good by the mid-1950s.

In the 1960s, I discovered
Mom's stash of food company
recipe pamphlets tucked away in
the back of the pantry. Among
my best finds were Aunt Jenny's
Favorite Recipes made with Spry
vegetable shortening, a 'Recipes
from the El Molino Kitchens'
booklet from a stone-ground
flour company, and the annual
'Pillsbury Bake-Off ' recipes.
For many budding chefs and
bakers, these product pamphlets
offered a treasure trove of recipes
and an invitation to cook.

'Quick' and 'easy' became new
buzz words in cooking. Uncomplicated
recipes meant aspiring chefs
without any kitchen skills could
learn to cook from booklets. However,
salt-laden processed ingredients
caused sodium levels to soar.
Many of today's cooks think twice
about sodium, fat, and sugar levels
before recreating favorite nostalgic
foods, no matter how fondly they
remember the recipes.

I've experimented with many
recipes from the 1950s and '60s
over the years. I updated flavors
and took out dairy, meat, and salt.
With some simple substitutions,
many old-time favorites can be
made to fit today's more healthconscious
kitchen.

The following recipes offer tips
and techniques for turning classic
recipes into vegan delights.

WILTED CABBAGE SALAD

(Serves 4)

This is a variation of a wilted greens
salad with bacon. Smoky tempeh
strips lend flavor, and the carrots
or apples add a sweet dimension.

2 cups boiling water

3 cups thinly sliced cabbage

1 Tablespoon olive oil

5 strips smoky tempeh strips

1 cup grated carrots or finely chopped
apples

1/4 cup wine vinegar or plain vinegar

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black or
white pepper

Pour boiling water over cabbage
and allow to sit for 10 minutes.

Pour olive oil into a heavy
skillet and heat. When hot, add
tempeh and cook until crispy.

Drain cabbage and place it
in a bowl with carrots or apples;
blend in vinegar and pepper.
When tempeh strips are cooked,
crumble over the cabbage and
blend in. Serve this salad with
Sloppy Joes or Barbecue
No-Meat Loaf.

Total calories per serving: 98

Fat: 5 grams

Carbohydrates: 10 grams

Protein: 4 grams

Sodium: 224 milligrams

Fiber: 4 grams

SLOPPY JOES

(Makes 4 sandwiches)

*Pictured on the cover. This is a
vegan version of a popular 1960s
hot sandwich. Tempeh provides
the perfect, beef-like texture for
the filling. Look for this soybean
product in the refrigerated section
at natural foods stores.

The chili-infused tomato sauce,
molasses, and vegetables make this
dish so good, kids ask for more. If
you don't have zucchini, use diced
carrots, rutabaga, or celery instead.

2 Tablespoons safflower oil

1 cup finely chopped onions

1 Tablespoon chili powder

1 1/2 cups sliced zucchini

4 cloves garlic, pressed

8 ounces tempeh, crumbled

One 15-ounce can low-sodium tomato
sauce

1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 Tablespoon molasses

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn

Pinch of salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

4 vegan burger buns

Heat a heavy skillet over medium
heat. Add the oil, onions, chili
powder, and zucchini. Stir, reduce
the heat, cover, and cook until
the onions are soft, approximately
7-10 minutes. Add the garlic and
tempeh. Stir and cook for another
5 minutes.

Blend in the tomato sauce,
vinegar, molasses, corn, salt, and
cayenne. Cover and cook for 15-
20 minutes or until the tempeh
is heated thoroughly. Add more
salt, if necessary.
Lightly toast buns in a nonstick
skillet. Serve tempeh mixture
over buns.

Total calories per serving: 411

Fat: 16 grams

Carbohydrates: 53 grams

Protein: 19 grams

Sodium: 292 milligrams

Fiber: 5 grams

Ditching Meat and Dairy and Losing Fat

MEAT REPLACEMENTS

Try dried and cooked or canned beans of all
varieties. When beans are paired with meat,
it's easy to replace the meat with more beans
or to add diced carrots, zucchini, or corn.

Tofu and tempeh products also top the list for
meat substitutes, but check the sodium content
of products such as Fakin' Bacon before using.
To give tofu a more 'meaty' texture, pan-fry
cubes in a small bit of oil until browned on each
side. Tempeh should be cooked before using and
can be sliced, cubed, or crumbled to replace meat
in recipes. Tempeh can absorb oil like a sponge,
so when frying, use a non-stick pan or lightly
spray a pan with oil before using in recipes.

When making mashed potatoes, use the water
from steaming the potatoes to mash them.

Make soups creamy by adding a quarter cup
of oatmeal to the soup and letting it simmer for
a long time. You can also sprinkle a Tablespoon
or more of rice flour over the bubbling soup and
blend until the soup thickens. Remove one cup
of soup near the end of cooking, purée, and stir
back into the mix.

To boost flavor, stir in fresh lemon juice, or stir
a Tablespoon or two of white miso into one cup
of soup, then add this to the pot.

EGG REPLACEMENTS

For scrambled eggs, firm tofu is the best substitute.
Just crumble the tofu and add a little turmeric
for a golden color. Sprinkle in up to one teaspoon
of nutritional yeast for a cheesy flavor.
Also, approximately a teaspoon of arrowroot
sprinkled over the cooking tofu can be stirred
in for an egg-like texture.

One of the best replacements for eggs in baked
recipes is a Tablespoon of ground flaxseeds (or
flaxseed meal) blended with three Tablespoons
of water for each egg to be replaced in a recipe.
Use a blender or a hand blender to whip this
mixture into a thick, foamy egg replacer. Store
flaxseed egg replacer in the refrigerator for up
to a week.

FAT REDUCTION

People who grew up in the 1950s and '60s recall
cans of leftover grease, saved from foods and stored
near the stove. Cooking oil was poured into the can
after cooking. Also, solid vegetable shortening took
the place of lard in many recipes during the 1950s.

Today, safflower or olive oil is recommended
for baking, roasting, and sautéing. The texture of
pie crusts isn't quite as flaky without hard fats, but
cooking and eating with healthier plant-based oils
just feels a lot better.

BARBECUE NO-MEAT LOAF

(Makes one 9 x 5-inch loaf or 8 servings)

Barbecue lentil loaf makes the basis for a great 1950s nostalgia meal.
While experimenting with lentil
loaf recipes, I discovered the real
secret to Mom's meatloaf from the
1950s was sage. Lentils mash easily,
and the potatoes and bread crumbs
help hold this healthful loaf together.
The loaf becomes more sliceable as
it cools and is even better fried the
next day.

1/2 cup gray or brown lentils, rinsed

1 1/2 cups washed and roughly cut potatoes,
peeling optional

Water to cover lentils and potatoes

2 cloves garlic, pressed

1/2 teaspoon sage

1/2 cup vegan barbecue sauce, divided

1 cup diced onions or shallots

1/2 cup diced carrots

1/4 cup crispy rice cereal or finely chopped
walnuts or pecans

1/4 cup bread crumbs

Cover the lentils and potatoes
with water, garlic, and sage and
cook until soft, stirring continuously
near the end of cooking until
lentils are almost dry. It should
take approximately 45 minutes
for total cooking. Drain.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine lentil mixture with 1/4
cup barbecue sauce, onions, carrots,
cereal or nuts, and bread crumbs.
Mix well. Press into a 9 x 5-inch
non-stick loaf pan. Make an indentation
down the middle and pour
the remaining barbecue sauce in.
Bake for approximately 45 minutes
or until set. Serve with some
baked squash or sweet potatoes and
Wilted Cabbage Salad
or Popeye's Spinach.

Total calories per serving: 113

Fat: < 1 gram

Carbohydrates: 23 grams

Protein: 5 grams

Sodium: 252 milligrams

Fiber: 5 grams

POPEYE'S SPINACH

(Serves 4)

The cartoon character Popeye helped
boost spinach consumption in the
1960s. Too bad baby spinach wasn't
available then. If it had been, I'm
sure many cooks would have been
a big fan of this easy vegetable.

8-10 cups fresh baby spinach, washed

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Pinch of salt

Pinch of freshly ground pepper

2 Tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

Steam spinach just until wilted,
approximately 1 minute. Set aside.

Cook the garlic in oil until it
sizzles. Gently mix in with spinach,
salt, pepper, juice, and zest.

Total calories per serving: 32

Fat: 2 grams

Carbohydrates: 3 grams

Protein: 2 gram

Sodium: 86 milligrams

Fiber: 1 grams

MAC AND NO-CHEESE
WITH ZUCCHINI 'CREAM'
SAUCE

(Serves 6)

Nothing is what it seems in this
reproduction of the ubiquitous '50s
favorite mac 'n' cheese. The idea for
this recipe sprang from an Italian
cookbook that also used Parmesan
cheese. I found that garlic and basil
delivered taste without adding any
cheese at all. The only trick is to peel
the zucchini since the green skin will
turn the sauce light green.

For a texture variation, fry about
a cup of sliced mushrooms in a dry
skillet over medium-high heat, stirring
constantly until the mushrooms
have browned. Add them to the
mixture for a 'meaty' texture.

4 cups washed, peeled, and roughly
chopped zucchini

5-7 quarts salted boiling water

One 12-ounce package your favorite pasta

2 cloves garlic, pressed

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Sea salt to taste

1/2 cup chopped fresh basil (optional)

1/2-1 cup toasted bread crumbs

Add the zucchini to a large pot
of salted boiling water and reduce
the heat. When the zucchini is
very tender, scoop it out, place
in a strainer, and drain. Save the
water. Using the back of a spoon,
press the zucchini to squeeze as
much water as you can from it.
Save the liquid.

Pour the zucchini water into
the pot of water and bring it to
a boil again. Add pasta and cook
until al dente (tender but firm).

While the pasta cooks, place
the zucchini in a food processor
with garlic and pepper. Process the
mixture until very smooth. Season
to taste with salt. Stir in chopped
basil, if desired.

Place the pasta in a serving
bowl and toss with the zucchini
sauce. Top each serving with
toasted bread crumbs.

Total calories per serving: 261

Fat: 1 gram

Carbohydrates: 52 grams

Protein: 10 grams

Sodium: 77 milligrams

Fiber: 3 grams

POTATO PANCAKES

Makes 8 cakes)

It doesn't matter whether you peel
the potatoes for this recipe. You can
leave the skins on unless they seem
damaged. If you don't really care
about getting browned crispy crusts,
fry the potato pancakes without the
added oil.

1 pound of potatoes, rinsed (approximately

2 medium potatoes)

1/4 cup nonhydrogenated vegan margarine

1 onion, finely diced

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1-2 Tablespoons olive or safflower oil
(optional)

1 teaspoon paprika

Steam the potatoes until tender.
Reserve the cooking liquid.

Mash the potatoes with the
margarine, adding the cooking
liquid until potatoes are smooth
and thick. Combine the potatoes
with the onions, salt, and pepper.
Form potato mixture into patties.

Brush oil in a non-stick skillet
and heat over medium heat. Lay
the patties in the pan and sprinkle
with paprika. Cook patties until
lightly browned, flip, and cook
the other side.

Total calories per serving: 9

Fat: 6 grams

Carbohydrates: 11 grams

Protein: 1 gram

Sodium: 209 milligrams

Fiber: 1 gram

LEMON-COCONUT
GRAPE CAKE

Makes one 9-inch cake or 8 servings)

Coconut cake was a winner listed in
a Pillsbury Grand National Bake-
Off Cookbook. It was a challenge
to recreate a moist vegan lemoncoconut
cake, but the grapes added
moisture as well as sweetness. Eat
this cake soon after baking because,
each day, the moisture from the grapes
makes the cake a little heavier.

Vegetable oil and flour to prepare pan

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar (Use your favorite vegan
variety.)

1/4 cup shredded coconut

1 teaspoon baking soda

Zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 Tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar

1/3 cup oil

1 cup cold water

1 1/4 cups seedless green grapes

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Oil and lightly flour a 9-inch
cake pan.

In a bowl, combine the flour,
sugar, coconut, baking soda, and
lemon zest. In another bowl, combine
the vanilla, lemon juice, and
oil. Stir into flour, then pour cold
water over all ingredients and stir
until blended. (Do not overmix,
or the cake will be tough).

Pour into the prepared cake
pan. Spread grapes over the surface.
Bake for 45 minutes or until
a toothpick comes out clean.

Total calories per serving: 285

Fat: 10 grams

Carbohydrates: 47 grams

Protein: 3 grams

Sodium: 104 milligrams

Fiber: 1 gram

CRISPY RICE SQUARES

(Makes one 9-inch round or one 7 x 5-inch
pan, approximately 15 servings)

Cold cereals incorporated into recipes
became popular in the 1950s and
'60s. Recipes for these tasty squares
appeared on Kellogg's Rice Krispies
boxes and featured marshmallows
melted into the mix to hold the
squares together. I eliminated the
marshmallows and replaced them
with more healthful ingredients,
such as nut butter and dried fruit.
You could also add slivered almonds
or shredded coconut.

Look for rice syrup and rice
cereal in natural foods stores.

1/2 cup rice syrup

1/2 cup almond or peanut butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup raisins

3 cups crispy rice cereal

Place rice syrup, nut butter, vanilla,
and raisins in a small saucepan.
Heat for a few minutes, and then
stir thoroughly.
Pour the rice cereal into a large
mixing bowl and add in the rice
syrup-nut butter mixture. Mix
until well-blended. Press into a
9-inch pan. Allow to cool. Cut
into bars.

Variation: For a chocolate version
of this recipe, melt a 1-ounce
square of vegan chocolate into the
nut butter.

Total calories per serving: 128

Fat: 5 grams

Carbohydrates: 20 grams

Protein: 2 grams

Sodium: 99 milligrams

Fiber: 1 gram

Debra Daniels-Zeller is a frequent
contributor to Vegetarian Journal.
This year, she wrote "Vegan Cowboy
Cuisine" for Issue 2 and "Secrets
of the Seasonal Vegan" for Issue 3.

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