One issue that has just popped up though, when I pull the trigger, nothing happens. I removed the cover of the handle and noticed that the coil set was not clicking and moving when the trigger is pulled. Anyone run into this issue? Do I just need to get a new coil set?

I know it is not the battery, I replaced it with a new on and it still does the same thing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
REM2500

druid

06-13-2006, 12:22 PM

noid wire, switch wire or capacitor

rem2500

06-13-2006, 07:55 PM

So are those parts that I can replace? Where can I get those parts?

Thanks again!
REM2500

Hob Hayward

06-13-2006, 08:36 PM

Look at the capacitor, if its bulging at the ends or leaking stuff, its shot, you can get a new one at radioshack, you just need to know how to solder.

I know how you feel now druid...

rem2500

06-22-2006, 05:11 PM

I am assuming the capacitor is the big black thing under the coil set. It is not labeled on the schematics. If so, it looks fine. I have unplugged everything from the board and made sure it was all clean and all....anything else I can look at?

Thanks again,
REM

WhatThaSmurf

06-22-2006, 05:14 PM

Just because the capacitor isn't bulging doesn't mean it's not the problem. I have been in the situation every once in a while where I can hear the microswitch clicking, but no shot. I am assuming that it is the capacitor, but until it fails completely, I'm not going to worry about. I don't play that frequently anyway (Nashville sucks for paintball).

ShadowX

06-22-2006, 06:03 PM

I know it is not the battery, I replaced it with a new on and it still does the same thing.

I'd bet you a Lot that it is the battery.. Since that you used the phrase "changed the battery", I am assuming that you are using battery that did not come with the Marker originally.. Meaning an Alkaline battery found at stores (I.E. Duracell or Energizer 9 Volt) What you need is the Java 9.6v Rechargeable battery with Charger..

what kind of grip do you have. The reason i ask is because I have a Dye sticky and the noid was touching the grip and was prevented from cycling. Check both sides of the grip to see if the noid clears the grip and is not restricted.

rem2500

06-23-2006, 11:22 AM

Great. Thanks for the ideas everyone. I will give all those a try and if one works, I will post the solution in case any one else has the same issue.

Thanks again,
REM

rem2500

04-20-2009, 07:40 PM

So it's been almost 3 years now and I never got this issue fixed. I decided to pull out my Imagine and see if I can get it going again. I bought a new battery and charger and that didn't fix the issue so I pulled the board and everything out and I think I found the problem. One of the cables going into the capacitor was not longer connected to the capacitor.

So here is my new question. I have not soldered before, but have seen it done a few times. The disconnect is between the capacitor and the cable, not the board and the cable. I am wondering if I can safely try to solder those 2 points together. I don't want the capacitor blowing up in my face or anything...

Thanks,
REM2500

bigred76

04-20-2009, 08:06 PM

How to solder:

Wet your sponge, and turn on the iron to a medium-low heat. You can always turn it up later if need be, but it's better to use not enough heat than too much.
Snip the wire so it's fresh
Strip some sheathing off of it
twist the wires together so it's easy to solder
put a bunch of solder on the end of the wire
CAREFULLY, only using just enough heat, attach it back to the pad on the capacitor.

Remember, solder remains liquid for a bit after you remove the soldering iron, so just tap it lightly until it melts, then take off the iron while holding it in place.

In this case, though, I do not believe it is possible to resolder the capacitor. The issue doesn't lie in it blowing up, but rather the way they make them and shrinkwrap them. IF you can get to the solder pad that the wire stripped off of, follow the steps to solder it. If you cannot, might as well look into a T-Board or any stock Spyder board that'll fit an ESP frame.

battlechaser

04-20-2009, 08:17 PM

It's not just that - you're also going to need to find the polarity of the existing cap - which might be as simple as emailing Kingman to find out. This will let you know how to soldering the new cap to the leads on the board.

Sundragon Paintball may also have a how to.

And here it is - http://www.sundragonpps.com/paintball_spyder_capacitor_rep.html

bigred76

04-20-2009, 09:03 PM

Well, if one wire is still attached, then logically the other, empty spot will be where the wire that isn't attached gets soldered to, right? ;)