2000 KM "Bonne Route"
France, 27.4.-18.5.94

Planning

So this time the tour was planned really long before.
Nothing to say about the final end.
That is why Cycling is so much fun.

Already during the autumn of the previous year my
fellow-worker Rainer B.
takes a glance on the map of Europe within North Cape and Southern
Italy. My former bike tours lead in various directions out of
Brunswick.
One branch leads to Paris, where years ago I started a journey along
the
canal-coast, Belgium and Holland finally to Leer (Ostfriesland). This
branch could be continued on to the other direction, visiting the
Loire,
the Atlantic coast and further to the south.

Some reasons stand for it: a night train with bicycle
transportation
runs directly from Brunswick to Paris and France is a beautiful site
for
biking. Date: after my birthday (the x0 th) end April, so one can quit
the official obligations. Naturally for this occasion new bicycles are
announced. Rainer chooses a bike from Kildemoos and I fall in love with
a fire-red coloured trekkingbike from Kalkhoff named Tramper. Of course
I cannot wait to buy the bike until my very birthday, for I must get
used to it before the big tour (so I say to my family).

At one of our sport-evenings I tell my friend Thomas G. of the
plan: "I
come with you" he says without further comments. So we will be three -
OK! Finally we visit a slide-performance of beautiful pictures of the
fascinating countryside of France.

Then Bahncard, tickets and reservations are booked. The last
problem is
the transport of the bikes to France. Usually they must be sent as
baggage before, but we trust in the baggage car of the train.

The evening before the big start Thomas is suffering of a
serious
influenza, but he will not quit the tour. We hope on the fresh air and
the physical training during the trip.

At Wednesday, 27.4. at 22.30 we start at the dark from our
village
heading the railway station. Thomas has no lights for he has choosen
his
racing bike. After some hundred meters he figures out, that he should
take with him a raining coat, so everyone retour again. Marianne,
Thomas' wife, will bring the rest of the baggage to the railway station
by car.

At the station we meet Rainer, staring proudly at his brand
new bike.
The train to Paris coming from Warschawa arrives in time. At the
baggage
car we ask the official server if everything is OK with the transport
of
the bikes. She (it was a woman) agrees. So we enter the couchette (I
got
this word from the dictionary - it sounds French, doesn't it).

Rainer has a surprise in form of a bottle of Baujolais (sounds
French
too). We do not loose much time until the bottle is empty and we get
tired. Anywhere within Hannover and Bielefeld we we wind ourselves into
the chaos out of sheets and blankets and fall into a restless sleep.

As we rub our eyes next morning we find ourselves in France
already.
Thomas is totally sweat from his influenza, he does not feel very
well..
At 9 o clock we arrive at Gare du Nord.

Thu 28.4. Paris - Ramboulliet 80 km: Sweat

Now we stand
on the platform amid our luggage and look for a conductor or someone
else who will open the luggage-car. No one around and anxious minutes
run away. I am known for to be a pessimist and await the train running
out the station and our bikes with it. Finally a curious individuum
comes up having the appropiate key. We relax receiving our bikes.

Now panniers and bags are strapped until the equipment is
complete. We
leave the railway station, welcome to the sun of Paris.

To see the first sensation we enter some streets up to the
church of
Sacre Coeur.

Across a park we push up, the
church white in the sunshine, Paris below in the morning-haze. Now the
trip really has begun.
Thomas awakes from his dilirium and leads us to the Centre Pompidou.

At this place we enter a
restaurant and get the first contact to croissant and cafe au lait. A
sparrow concerns itself about the crumbs under our chairs, the sparrow
of Paris (nickname of Edith Piaf). Rainer enters a near exchange
bureau. Thoughtfully he comes back, the exchange rate seems to be less
than the German one I got at my bank some days ago. After some
calculations he figures out a loss of 10 per cent. The barkeeper
meanwhile greets a guest with a short song - this is typical Paris as
it
should be.

We now enter Notre Dame at the Ile de la Cite. With our packed
bikes we
are not as flexible to do more than a superficial sight. On the other
side of the Seine we head towards Versailles, passing lots of traffic
lights. We pass the Tour d' Eiffel, he spreads his mighty feet above
the
swarms of tourists.

We change across a bridge back on the opposite shore of the
Seine again
and use the avenue de Versailles, obviously this is the right route.
Somewhat later however we find ourselves lost amid bewildering
traffic-shields. Easily one ends up on a highway or
long-distance-street. We do not know where we are now. Rainer and
Thomas
pick up their reading-glasses to add their wisdom concerning the map of
Michelin. Someone passing by speaks English and feels with our little
group shouting and gesticulating, soon more observers are standing
around.

Finally the matter is cleared up. Passing the Pont du Sevres
we reach
Meudon and now straight ahead reach Versailles. Thomas sweats like at a
sauna, we other two do as well. In sight of the Versailles Palace we
enter a restaurant. Now early in the afternoon we didn't make much
distance yet.

Some time later we push the bikes through the entrance of this
famous
palace that one must have seen. Groups of
yellow coated Japanese stroll towards the big building.

But we are told by an officer that we and our bikes are not
allowed to
stay here. Shaking his arms he shows us the way to the park at the
backside. We start up and soon bike through the park along creeks and
lakes. You can rent a boat and paddle around or better drop to the
green
and watch the historic scenery. A more comfortable manner to see the
park is to use a little train. But there the Japanese tourists fill the
seats already.

We leave the park and finally leave Paris. At Dampiere we have
a rest.
Apart from Versailles we see the first castle nearby. In a little shop
we can buy something to drink. Some time later the shopping ladies of
Dampiere press their noses to the shop window watching Thomas while he
changes his wet sweat shirts.

The destination of the day is now ahead: Ramboulliet. On a
small road we
pass a sweet little valley, in the bushes the nightingales sing their
songs. We pass an old Abbey on the right. The last part of our way is a
bike trail through the forest of Ramboulliet. We enter the Hotel St.
Charles, Thomas is powered out. Aside the hotel there are barracks and
a
military-band plays smart melodies. May be the peace all over the world
is made by this.

A walk around - we find a castle and a big park.

A big iron fence is built around the castle to keep bad people
away from official meetings. Now we look for a restaurant. The French
meals are not familiar to us by now, so we enter a Chinese restaurant.
We order three different meals and have a probe of each. Only Rainer
has
the skill to use those Chinese chop sticks.

Fri 29.4. Ramboulliet - Tournoisis 105 km: Flat Country

We take the first breakfast, the
petit dejeuner, existing out of Croissant and Baguette, butter and jam,
also tea or cafe au lait. I am glad to pay the bill by Visa-Card so get
rid of changing money all the time. You feel like a worldwide
experienced traveller as well.

Time goes by before we can start. Shoot a photo of the castle
at first.
Then the other two start shopping and buy drinks, vegetable, and
baguette. Rainer heads for a bank again to change money and to get rid
of the frustation the day before. Thomas tries to phone and fails,
Rainer offers his assistance and a discussion comes up. I stand around
in the sunshine or walk to and fro.

Finally Thomas succeeds in his conversation, but now he looks
for a
toilette. To get the proper legitimation for this a coffee must be
ordered at a bar. I stand around in the sunshine or walk to and fro. It
is 11 o'clock now and at last we can start.

But we miss the right way again and find ourselves at a four
laned
freeway. Then we find a smaller road at last leading along rape fields.
Thomas is a master in finding objects on the way, this time there are
CDs with classic music on the pavement and in the grass. One after the
other is dropped inside the panniers.

The last way to Cartres we run against a head wind but in high
speed.
It is Rainer who makes the pace. Soon we see the Chartres Cathedral far
in front, so the way is right. The town is romantic, houses of the
Middle Age, an old fortification and then we head up a hill where there
is the famous cathedral on its top.

This monstrous miracle of sculpured stone art built in generations lets
you breathe with a whistle. A huge hall inside, rich coloured windows
and the famous Rosette. But you feel strange remembering blood and
sweat
of this splendour. We go all around in astonishment. Meanwhile Rainer
uses his dictionary and figures out some French vocabulary.

Now we go to the south. Down to the valley of the Loire we have to pass
a countryside of flat land. We find small roads, can drive side by side
and chat.

At Tournoisis we find the first board showing the famous
attractions of the Loire valley. The village is small but we find a
hotel at a junction. We hesitate but then think to have made it for
this
day. So we enter the Relais St. Jaques.

The host is very friendly and leads us up some wooden stairs
to a room
beneath the roof. You can see the timbered construction of the roof
inside this thoroughly restaurated room.

We have succeeded to find an old
post station of former times, where they changed horses and took a rest
over night. So we do except changing the horses. But that is why the
name Relais comes from. Down in the foyer we find an album and
documentation of the restauration activities.

We use our shampoo and the shower bath, change our clothes and
appear in the dining room well dressed. Monsieur is waiting already
amid
a festive set of tables, but it seems we are the only guests tonight.
We enjoy in consumation of
the served menus, hungry as bikers are. Salad, egg, steak, curd cheese
and dessert run their way. Red wine, coffee and finally a cognac up to
it.

Though we are the only guests all tables are prepared for
other guests.
We ask what's about it. "Une catastophe" is the answer of Monsieur. So
if everyone reads this story, enter this site, though I do not know if
meanwhile this beautiful hotel still exists. Now the tour is long ago,
but the Relais St. Jaques holds the first place. Thomas cannot resign
in
using the FAX to send a message at home. Next morning we got the answer
as well.

Sat 30.4. Tournoisis - Onzain 107 km: The Loire

Having a splendid sleep we enjoy the bright morning. Soon we reach
Meung
at the Loire. We enjoy this town, but Thomas tries in vain to get some
money with his Credit Card of the Bank Lyonnaise. So I am proud of my
Visa Card and laugh at it.

To Bourgency there is a bike trail at the shore of the Loire.
Nice views
and picturesque villages at the way.

At Bourgency we cross
the mighty bridge of the Loire. We head to the Chambord where there is
one of the most beautiful castles of the Loire (though Chambord is not
located at the Loire directly). On the route leading through a
forest we suffer from the midday-heat. An original village-pub we spend
a pleasant rest again.

Through a huge park-gate we enter the park of Chambord. After
a
long dead straight road we finally see the palace to the right.
Especially impressive is the large number of chimneys. They must have
pretty work if all stoves are heated. We prefer a shady place aside the
admirable splendour.

Then I start to explore the inside of this estate. At first
you enter a
foyer, there are lots of shops offering every kind of souvernirs
related to the Loire castles. I would like to buy a big sheet of paper
to build a model of the building with all it's yards, wings, and
chimneys.
But it would be difficult to pack this sheet into the panniers.

At the passageway to the palace-patio a pretty but resolute
Mademoiselle exposes me: "Votre ticket s'il vous plait". So I prefer
to retreat.

Outside Rainer strolls around the castle shooting photographs.
Thomas
strives towards a near by Cafe. There we all meet again and afterwards
are wondering about the price of coffe and ice-cream.

We then continue back to the Loire. Crossing a bridge again we
reach
Blois.

We find a picturesque old town. Like everywhere at those
places lots of travelling entertainers try to catch a couple of coins
from the observers. A larger family offers music, dancing, or
juggle with balls and rings. A toddler sucks at its bottle. Another one
goes around with a cap to get the coins.

In front of the Blois castle we buy something to drink and
then leave
this busy town. Between railway-dams, a graveyard and new built houses
we
stroll around. The roadmap is misleading again. My friends enter their
reading glasses, no good signal for me. We finally reach a big wood,
several ways lead into it. Thomas determines to choose the way leading
to the north. "Here we go". We follow in doubt. I declare to be rid of
any responsibility, Rainer inaudibly grinds on his teeth.

Now it is the time to tell that no one of us feels to be the
leader. But
I am the only one who is able to read the map during riding the bike,
for I have multifocal eye-glasses. So sometimes I am stressed by this
responsible job and then my companions feel to be more intelligent of
the
matter, may be they are right. But they have to fix their reading
glasses first... .

This time we success to find a big place within the forest. It
is an Etoile,
that means lots of ways leading to all directions. We choose the
southern one of them all. Soon Thomas has to push his racing bike, we
can hardly manage to curve around the stones and holes on the way.
Finally we reach the edge of the forest and find orselves and the
location at the road map.

Now green landscape is around, the way leads up and down,
but at last down back to the Loire.
We reach Onzain and enter the hotel Pont de Ouchet.
Everything
OK, in the evening we order a French menu again. One final course of
the
meal is fromage (cheese) in several variations. I fall into a Fauxpas
and try to cut off some stripes of cheese by myself. But this is the
wrong way.
The elegant fashion is to tip with it's finger towards the desired kind
of cheese and then let the waitress cut off a small stripe of it. And
three different kinds are the maximum.

Sun 1.5. Onzain - Chinon 127 km: Some Flights.

At the first village this morning our trip is delayed b a big
flea-market.

No cars are allowed and the streets are full of strange
stuff. If we had more room in our panniers we could spend a whole day
at
this place. So we continue. Soon we join to a group of bike-racers but
they do not ride at a high speed. So Thomas sets the pace from the head
- seems he feels better now. At Amboise however he must enter a
drugstore and buy some eye- drops. He is delighted at the pretty
pharmacist. We buy a set of Michelin road-maps and then head towards
the
castle of Chenonceau.

At this place there is a huge crowd probably because we have
Sunday
today. We do not want to neglect our cultural senses and annoyed pay a
high price for admission to get a glance of the castle which is hidden
in the park. Sightseeing of the castle however is an impressive
experience worth the money. We wander through the magnificent rooms, a
paper available in German - and English as well - declars the
historical
facts.

A peculiarity is a building complex built over the river Cher
where one can reach the opposite shore. We are happy to watch a group
of swimmers dressed by rubber suits.
Soon this group disappears beneath the castle.
Finally we admire a famous portrait of Louis XIV and have a visit to
kitchen and cellar sites. We return to our bikes bearing all this
culture in our mind.

Now first disagreements come up. Two participants of our group
feel
displeasured while the other one slowly changes his clothes. Some time
later another participant runs far ahead and misses a junction. He has
to return having climbed up a hill in vain. With a coffee parts of
the displeasure are flushed away.

Another castle is announced: Azay le Rideau. So we drive south
of Tours
along the river Indre. At Veigne a boy with his canoe tries
to climb up a wave at a dam
and we watch at him for a while. As he gets aware of us he throws away
his
paddle and moves the boat by his hands alone.

We ask some walkers for the next road because there is a
building site.
"Oui - Oui!" they say. Starting again I come out of balance as my foot
stays fixed at the pedal. As felled by an ax I fall down just in front
of the people. I feel like "Now he comes from the far Germany with big
luggage and is not able to drive a bike. In a rush we disappear around
the next curve.

At Montpazon all roads are torn and under construction, that
is why the
road was closed before. But we push the bikes and have no problems.
Near
Ripault we pass an industry-terrain. Any nuclear researches may be
practised behind electric fences in a military fashion. May be they
have
a guilty conscience with those safety devices.

We reach the next castle: Azay le Rideau. But this time the
entrance is
closed. The palace is invisible behind the trees. So we enter a
restaurant at the marketplace and enjoy coffee and cake. Strange faces
as we have to pay - the price of a piece of cake is twice as high as
usual (DM 9.-). On our protest we are shown the price-list, there
actually is to be read this impertinent sum. We leave this place in
rage. In addition the photo of the backside of the hidden castle is
worthless later on.

We then reach the green meadows of the Loire again. The next
castle of
Rigny-Usse now lies just in front of us.

Two poplars unfortunately
obstruct the optimal panorama. In front of the palace a helicopter
is parked on a meadow. There one can start for a round flight- not
quite
cheap as well. As we stay there in astonishment a lady speaks to us.
She
is Dutch and married to the pilot. So we can chatter for a while about
the
things around. The castle is visited by some hundred thousand people
every year. As well she tells us some tales of their helicopter-job.

Next we climb up a mountain to the village Huismes. There is a
sign
offering a panoramic view. Rainer turns on the main road but fails to
watch of the sidestone. Now it is he to lie on the pavement. Some
native
persons in front of a bar fall in laughter. We disappear around the
next
corner and try to find the panoramic view up a steep hill. But
there is not any. So we run down again but avoid the center of the
village not to pass the native persons laughing at the bar.

Soon we reach Chinon and try to inform about the local
gastronomy. We
decide to cross the river Vienne and go to the hotel St. Jaques. We
have
dinner at the elegant restaurant Boulle d' Ore (Golden Ball).
Thereafter
one (or two...) beers at an original bar near the marketplace.

Mon 2.5. Chinon - Ingrandes 125 km: Individuals.

Since we are in France I am looking for a bike-shirt. At the evening
before
we had discovered a bike shop. Lots of shirts a waiting for users
there. So shopping after breakfast is announced. But the shop is
closed.
But a bank is open and we change some money. The employee tells us,
that
on Monday morning it is difficult to find the shops open. We return to
the hotel across the old bridge (12. century).

At the hotel the host with a strange looking expression on his
face
stokes around in a brown pouring gully.
We better keep some distance and pack our bikes. We
let any flood behind us and start for the trip of this day.

We pass extended wine-cultivation-areas, shields everywhere
with hints
on "Cave de Vin", seems to mean "Wine Cellar". Those cellars are built
deep into the porous stone of this area. Sure they offer optimal
temperatures for the maturity of the noble drops. Many of these
subterranean systems shall have the extension of miles. One tells
that many tourists of the Loire site forget themselves
staggering from one
wine-probe to the next (tourist guide).

At Candes-S. Martin Thomas insists on shooting a photograph of
the place's
name and me for it is my first name. At this place the saint St. Martin
is
told to have died in 397 p.C. A pretty long time ago we think.

We find ourselves on the national route towards Saumur. This
is not very
impressive, so we soon enter the vineyards aside. No busy traffic
around
here but soon we fail to orientate again. They pick up their
reading-glasses... Finally we find the road to Saumur. So now we
succeed
just to arrive at the castle of Saumur up on a hill high above the
town.

Rainer and I shoot photographs, Thomas enters a cafe. As we
join there
we find three cups of coffee - but all of them are empty. You will
never
find out if they have been empty before or if he has drunk them all by
himself.

We rush down into the town but do not stay there. We find some
curious
ways out of the town instead. Once a roe deer runs parallel to the
street alarming near beside us. Some time later our common way
separates
however. At the left shore of the Loire now the utilization of the deep
caverns has changed. They grow mushrooms in here. There is a
fungus-museum. Our hope on a delicious fungus-pan remains unfulfilled.
At a restaurant at Gennes we only get a cheese-sandwich.

Now we cross the Loire, wide and still meanwhile and go on at
the shore
on the right side.

Much traffic now, it is a nice landscape yet but the
wide asphalt does not spend much joy to the biker. So we prefer a
higher
speed, Rainer sets the pace. We reach the big city of Angers with
building sites, traffic lights, and much traffic in companion with the
burning sun in the afternoon.

While Rainer and I stop in the pedestrian area of Angers
Thomas has
totally disappeared. After some time Rainer gets angry. Finally
Thomas appears again, he felt urgent to buy a couple of pears. Now he
is
placed in the middle of the crossing amid the roaring traffic. Rainer's
mood does not improve.

We look for a pastry shop (Patisserie). Cake is cheaper than
we had
found at Azay de Rimbaud. The saleswoman looks like the Maria Callas in
her young years. An elderly woman passes by, leaned on her companions,
her head hanging backside. She sits on a chair and seems to feel
better.

We enter a place with the ancient half timbered Adamhouse, the
cathedral
located nearby. I enter it for a short visit. This is a huge vault, the
widest nave in France, pretty glass windows and old portraits.

We then head
towards the river down on stairs. Around some fountains the culture of
the
modern time hangs around in the form of strange individuals. The main
stuff of their food is passed around hidden in paperbags. Better to
leave this place soon.

This time we succeed to jump off this city. Soon we reach the
desired
road along the Loire again. It is even hilly, sweat pours as well. We
find ourselves on a dream-route, with back-wind on the dike, the
villages and meadows fly along. We look for an accomodation now but a
couple of kilometers are done in a great way.

Angers

But now a special chapter of the story will come up. We quit
the tour of
this day at Ingrandes. We find a modest hotel and book a single and
double room. Beneath the windows the Loire murmurs at a splash below a
bridge.

We look for a nice restaurant and enjoy the menu. But the
subsequent
discussion now runs out of control. At first there are medical themes,
then they enter political topics. The Minister of the Interior of Lower
Saxony is suffered to be done an autopsy - there are opposite meanings
everywhere. And now the discussion turns to escalate."Madman"
"Idiot" and so on (difficult to translate...).

Meanwhile the waitress has ducked behind the bar table to
avoid flying
wineglasses. Well, no one flies around but the voices have arisen. Like
a cascade the the frustration of several situations until now comes up.
I catch my Visa Card and settle the bill.

Finally Rainer absolutely says: "I was happy on this vacation,
now I am
not willing to accept any destruction further on." He is willing to
make
his own way further on.

And what's about me? I am sitting between all those chairs. I
made the
proposal to be three of us hoping to arrange a harmonic affair. Is it
me
to be responsible to the understanding of each other?
And how we will continue now?

As soon as the opponents have wiped out the froth of the
corner of their
mouths we return to the hotel in silence. I start to commute from one
room to the other and try to find an arrangement. After all Rainer is
determined and is not willing to quit his plan. But I have to go with
Thomas for I convinced him of this journey. So at last we should sleep
over it. "Will be a difficult chapter of your report" Rainer finally
says. (And so it is - difficult to explain and to translate).