James Flemons’ fashion line Phlemuns has been causing a commotion in the LA fashion scene since he opened shop in 2013. Already, his clothes have been seen on the likes of Miley Cyrus, Tinashe, and Justine Skye, as well as all over Solange and her crew in her powerfully unassuming video for “Don’t Touch My Hair.” It’s kismet that he’s dressing the next generation of icons, as his aesthetic cites old school R&B stars Aaliyah and Missy Elliott as inspiration. The Phlemuns look has roots in denim, with eyelets dotting a heady mix of fabric: sometimes flowy, sometimes sexy, and always, always androgynous.

It’s something Flemons is serious about: he says he often starts with a womenswear design, translates it to his own body, and then turns it back into womenswear to complete the piece. Phlemuns’ latest capsule collection – heavy on the recycled denim – is full of thrilling silhouettes and patchwork wildness. If the clothes look fun, that’s because Flemons is having fun making them: the LA-born-and-raised designer says his favorite feeling is “the high I get after I create something new. I feel unstoppable, powerful, in control.”