Proving that fashion is more than clothing, the end of London Fashion Week fall/winter 2014 brought collections that reflected the world around them in cozy knits and quilting details (Issa, Pringle of Scotland and Belstaff) and subdued palettes (Erdem, Mary Katrantzou and Tom Ford), architectural references (Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane and JW Anderson) and arty textiles (Temperley London, Issa and Roksanda Ilincic).

And nearly all the lines incorporated several of these trends at once, sometimes mixing somber with splashy art gallery prints, as at Ilincic, or architectural tailoring with painterly flourishes, as at Giles (modeled by Kardashian sibling Kendall Jenner).

Ford's finely tailored pieces in leather and velvet broke from the pack by largely ignoring print in favor of a streamlined silhouette (and color story) that created its own architecture. But he was not alone in referencing the Old West (or American Southwest) with his sophisticated take on cowboy boots and a poncho-topped evening gown. Burberry Prorsum and Issa channeled a Western vibe with blanket shawls, and Barbara Casasola topped her sleek city separates with an updated take on the 10-gallon hat.

SOMBER: Models walk the runway at the Erdem show at London Fashion Week AW14 STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECTURE: At the Christopher Kane show at London Fashion Week AW14. STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: Models walk the runway at the Erdem show at London Fashion Week AW14 STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: Models walk the runway at the Erdem show at London Fashion Week AW14 STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: Model Cara Delevingne walks the runway at the Burberry Prorsum show at London Fashion Week AW14. TIM P. WHITBY, GETTY IMAGES
A model walks the runway at the Burberry Prorsum show at London Fashion Week AW14 . TIM P. WHITBY, GETTY IMAGES
A model walks the runway at the Burberry Prorsum show at London Fashion Week AW14. TIM P. WHITBY, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Issa show at London Fashion Week AW14. BEN A. PRUCHNIE, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: Model Cara Delevingne walks the runway at the Giles show at London Fashion Week AW14. BEN A. PRUCHNIE, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Roksanda Ilincic show at London Fashion Week AW14. ANTHONY HARVEY, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Roksanda Ilincic show at London Fashion Week AW14. ANTHONY HARVEY, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: Stella Tennant walks the runway at the TOM FORD show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: A model walks the runway at the TOM FORD show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: Kendall Jenner walks the runway at the Giles show at London Fashion Week AW14. BEN A. PRUCHNIE, GETTY IMAGES
SOMBER: A model walks the runway at the Giles show at London Fashion Week AW14. BEN A. PRUCHNIE, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Issa show at London Fashion Week AW14. BEN A. PRUCHNIE, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECTURE: A model walks the runway at the Simone Rocha show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECTURE: A model walks the runway at the Simone Rocha show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECTURE: A model walks the runway at the Simone Rocha show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECURE: A model walks the runway at the Peter Pilotto show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECURE: A model walks the runway at the Peter Pilotto show at London Fashion Week AW14. STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECURE: A model walks the runway at the Peter Pilotto show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ARCHITECURE: A model walks the runway at the Peter Pilotto show at London Fashion Week AW14. MILES WILLIS, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Temperley London show at London Fashion Week AW14. STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
A model walks the runway at the Temperley London show at London Fashion Week AW14. STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES
ART SCHOOL: A model walks the runway at the Temperley London show at London Fashion Week AW14. STUART C. WILSON, GETTY IMAGES

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