Epoxy, I would think. But now there are a dizzying quantity of epoxies
on the market. I would think one of the metal types (think JB Weld)
would buff out smoothest w/ a Dremel. You might call 3M and ask.
How about this: you can't add parts apparently, such as a simple tiny
(yet highly polished) washer, correct? Is the axle still a nail, as it
was when I was a boy? How about modifying the nail? You could pound it
out where a washer would be to form a washer of sorts, just something
to keep it from contacting the wheel.
Interesting question.
H.

Shellac under wax?
--------------------
Steve Jensen
Abbotsford B.C.
snipped-for-privacy@canada.mortise.com chopping out the mortise.
BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps.
Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95.
WW'ing since 1985
LV Cust #4114
Nothing catchy to say, well maybe.....
WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!

Tom, How about mixing some diamond powder in with poly?
You can get the dust
http://cgi.ebay.com/SACHI-Diamond-Polishing-Powder-Micron-0-2-Grade-1-C_W0QQitemZ6589937115QQcategoryZ4843QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Or aluminum oxide mixed in to poly such as used on pre finished
floors.

How much do you want to put into this, Thomas?
Supposing all the responses are correct in what the 'project' is . . . it is
presumed to be an 'indoor' {NOT exposed to UV} item. With that in mind *my*
recommendation would be the following schedule -
1} Sand up to 220 grit
1a}If color is desired, use WB DYE at this point
1b}When completely dry, sand away 'fuzz'
2} 'Tack' and vacuum clean
3} Apply a thin, well pushed coat of HARD {5:1
formulation}epoxy {RAKA is the brand I use - glad
to give you some}
4} Within 24-hours, apply another coat
5} Apply a third coat as above.
6} After 24-hours, examine with a glancing light and
apply a 4th coat as necessary.
6a}Allow to 'cure' for at least 7 days.
7} WASH with warm water {add a drop or two of a mild
liquid dish detergent}
8} Dry & sand {with block}using secceedingly finer grits
. . . to 340.
9} Apply 3 {or more} thin coats of a clear WB Poly.
Sanding between coats to at least 600 Wet.
10} Apply at least two coats of paste wax . . . WELL
BUFFED OUT.
Obviously this will take quite a bit of time. What you WILL have is a solid,
very hard and very flat base. This will be covered by a very hard
intermediate layer {that can be re-need}, to which the 'slick' layer can be
repeatedly re-applied. It is also almost totally impervious - and thus
allowing experiments with various 'just before use' treatments. Note that
'as is' it is dry and NOT a 'dust collector'.
Regarding the comment about the axle . . . I would fine sand/burnish then
polish, wax, & buff well as needed.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

Alright - my curiosity is peaked. How about building two while you're at it
and finishing one with just a couple coats of poly that you knock down with
some 1500 and maybe hit with a little rubbing compound. I'm going to get
daring here, but I'm going to bet it performs just as well as this and
previous suggestions. Not to dismiss the value of this and other
suggestions, but how much is enough for the given application? Frankly, I
don't know - that's why my bet is daring, but I'm willing to put my
collection of fruit fly wings up as collateral for my bet.

.
I didn't question your post Ron. That's why I took the time to state that
my curiosity was peaked. I am curious if any of the suggestions are any
better than the obvious solution. My guess that the poly approach would
work every bit as well as any of the other suggestions speaks more to the
OP's quest for the hardest smoothest finish than it does to your response.
I suspect he's in search of incremental gains that just won't be measurable.

Sikkens Autocryl Clear. Harder than a boss's heart. Looks like it stays
wet.
It's a three-part finish which meets spec for topcoats for Mercedes,
Porsche etc.
The difficulty is in obtaining small amounts. I have used it in
commercial applications where it has stood up brilliantly over the
years. If laminate is more robust, it is not by much.
The fun part is that one can buy a 'Matting Clear'. By adding that,
instead (percentage) of the main Autocryl component, one has infinite
control of sheen. IOW, what you have left, can be used in high wear
applications like... thresholds. Potlife (Mixed) is about 1 hour.
Shelflife opened is about a year. Clean your gun.. I mean CLEAN it with
their thinner (part 3).
It is really remarkably tough stuff. Do NOT apply to raised panel doors
as the contraction and expansion will tear the door up where the panel
is painted/stuck to the rail/stile. DAMHIKT.
I put a cherry veneer fridge panel right next to my gas range and after
12 years of cleaning with a variety of noxious substances, not a trace
of wear. Looks new like the day I installed it. If it wasn't so damned
expensive, I'd use it on everything. (Comes in 330,00 colours as well.
Rolls Royce has a spec for bronze metallic. I have been tempted to lay
out the cash and refinish my American Standard Telecaster.... but I
kinda like the black it is now.)
Akzo Nobel are the Americanadian distributors.

How about adding a lubricant to the finish? My BIL, who owns a paint
company, once finished the slide at a children's playground and added
silicone to the varnish. You could also try adding graphite powder or
Teflon powder to a two-part urethane or catalyzed lacquer. The hardness
of two-part urethane is determined by the ratio of hardener to resin so
you could formulate to maximum hardness, add some of the aforementioned
cat snot and... you know, "be" the slippery slope.

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