K7 AND NANGA PARBAT

In July–August, 2004, Steve House put together a “dream team” of climbers, including Marko Prezelj, Jeff Hollenbaugh, Bruce Miller, Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson, to enjoy what House called a “miniature alpinism festival” in Pakistan. During their expedition, House opened The American Route (VI 5.10a M6 A2 80º, 2400m) on the southwest face of K7 (6934m), July 24–26, making the peak’s second ascent. Doug Chabot and Bruce Miller followed with the third ascent of K7, via their second ascent of The Japanese Route (VI M6 WI5+ A2, 2400m), with significant variations, July 23–28. On Nanga Parbat (8126m), Doug Chabot and Steve Swenson opened The Mazeno Ridge (VI M4 A13, ca. 6500m) to junction with the Schell Route at 7100 meters, August 12–18. Finally, August 12–17, Steve House and Bruce Miller attempted (to 7560m) Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face; their decision to descend provoked House’s contemplation of the differences between solo and partner climbing, “no mind” and “naked mind.” A full account of their expedition appears in Issue 10.