Joe Melig (left) and Esaul Ramos will represent 2M Smokehouse at the Botánica Music Festival.

Joe Melig (left) and Esaul Ramos will represent 2M Smokehouse at the Botánica Music Festival.

Photo: Tom Reel /San Antonio Express-News

10. 2M Smokehouse

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There’s a price to pay for great barbecue: standing in line, the prospect of the “sold out” sign, 30 bucks for a single beef rib.

With the arrival of 2M Smokehouse in 2016, the time came for San Antonio to pay that price. And for the big bark and accordion fat of true Texas brisket, it’s been worth every minute in line, every dollar and every lesson in supply and demand.

Barbecue like this — big glazed pork ribs, handmade sausage with Oaxaca cheese and serranos, pulled pork with texture and juice — comes just a few times every restaurant generation. It’s just as rare to find handcrafted sides like chicharrón mac and cheese, pickled cactus and onion escabeche.

2M Smokehouse is a humble conduit for overnight success, built on the renovated bones of a taquería by native San Antonians Joe Melig and pitmaster Esaul Ramos. See the mattress by the smoker outside? That’s where the guys keep their barbecue vigil. Because overnight success comes one night at a time.