Let’s Talk Food: Apples play big role in popular culture

Bright and brilliant October is harvest time throughout much of the world. Festivals, in celebration of the bounty of God and nature, are held to glorify a prolific and profitable harvest. Apples are among the most celebrated of the crops, especially here in the United States where Johnny Appleseed left a legacy of thousands of apple trees.

Although there are many references to apples in the bible, it is only legend that purports that Eve tempted Adam with an apple. However, those who began depicting the apple as the fruit of the Tree of Knowledge couldn’t have picked a more tempting enticement than this beautiful and delicious fruit.

Throughout history, apples have played an important part in legend, science, art and history. Apples were grown in the gardens of the Phoenicians. In Greek mythology one of Hercules’ tasks was to obtain the golden apples of the Hesperides, which were extremely well guarded since they bestowed immortality to those who ate them.

Artists such as Cézanne, Crivelli and Courbet celebrated the apple on canvas. Our early settlers thought so highly of the apple that they brought apple seeds with them in their precious supplies. Peregrine White, the first baby boy born on the Mayflower, left his own legacy when he planted apple trees throughout the region.

Ever since we were children we have grown to believe that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. According to two Yale University researchers, professors Tyler Lorig and Gary Schwartz, the fragrance from an apple evokes such a calming response in people it has even been found to prevent anxiety attacks.

The patron saint of the apple, John “Johnny Appleseed” Chapman, was a living example of the healing powers of the apple. Among the legendary tales of this extraordinary man is the story that once he fell asleep and a rattlesnake tried to bite him, but he was immune to the venom. He spent 49 years of his life in the American wilderness planting apple seeds. He created apple orchards in Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Pennsylvania and Ohio. Some of these original trees continue to bear fruit. Born in 1774, he died in 1845 and the day he died was the only time he had ever been ill.

Apples have influenced many facets of our lives, including the vernacular. Such terms as the Big Apple, apple of my eye, apple polishing, upper crust and “as American as apple pie” are in common usage. Consider their origins:

Upper crust: In the early days of our history, only the affluent used two crusts when baking apple pies. Poorer families used only a bottom crust. Thus, rich families prided themselves in placing a two-crust pie out on a pedestal proclaiming themselves a member of “the upper crust.”

The Big Apple: This appellation dates back to the 1930s, when jazz took over the clubs in New York City. Charlie Parker and other jazz greats began referring to their performances as having “lot of apples on the tree,” that is, a lot of places to play. Soon music critics were referring to the city as “The Big Apple.”

Apple of my eye: This expression dates back to ancient Greece and Rome, when it was perceived that the pupil of the eye was similar to an apple, a global object. The pupil was also regarded as a window to the treasured secrets within each one of us and when one was the apple of another’s eye it gave access to that inner secret soul.

Apple polishing: Taking an apple to the teacher in order to gain favor goes back to the days of the little red schoolhouses of yore. The custom was the inspiration for a song that went like this: “An apple for the teacher will always do the trick when you don’t know your lessons in arithmetic.”

Apples as a health food go all the way back to Hippocrates. He had long been extolling the virtues of including fiber in the diet to his students. The fruit contains boron, an essential element in strengthening bones and preventing osteoporosis. There is boron in the apple, its juice and applesauce. So, when you’re taking a bite out of that crisp, delicious, juicy, satisfying apple, be assured that you are helping to lower your cholesterol, ingesting plenty of vital fiber, preventing cardiovascular diseases and enjoying one of nature’s greatest gifts.

Apple mavens claim that the best way to enjoy an apple is to select a firm, crisp apple with a glowing skin and eat it out of hand. I agree, but there are also so many wonderful dishes made with apples. Here are just a few:

RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES AND CHESTNUTS

Cooler weather lies ahead and this dish is a splendid accompaniment to pork and game.

In a large frying pan, fry the bacon until it is brown and crisp; dry on a paper towel and break into pieces. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan or if using vegetable oil, place in pan and heat. Add the sugar and onion; stir to dissolve the sugar and cook the onion over low heat, allowing it to brown lightly. Add the cabbage, apples, vinegar and cider and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, pressing the cabbage down and stirring from time to time. Add the chestnuts and juniper berries. With the cover askew, cook over low heat until the cabbage is tender and most of the liquid evaporated, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste carefully for the balance of sweet and sour, adding a touch more sugar if necessary. Stir in the reserved bacon and serve. Serves 8.

WHOLE-WHEAT APPLE PANCAKES

This is a very special dish for brunch or Sunday morning breakfast.

1½ cups sifted all-purpose flour

⅔ cup whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tablespoons honey

2 cups buttermilk, at room temperature

2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

1 medium tart apple, peeled, cored and coarsely grated (about 1 cup)

In a medium-size bowl, combine the flours, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. In another bowl beat the eggs lightly with the honey, then stir in the buttermilk. Make a well in the middle of the dry ingredients and pour in the buttermilk mixture. Stir to incorporate the flour into the milk gradually, smoothing the lumps as you go. When the batter is smooth, stir in the melted butter and grated apple. Heat a griddle or large skillet and lightly grease it with vegetable shortening or butter. Ladle the batter onto the griddle in 5-inch rounds, or whatever size you prefer, and cook until golden on both sides, turning only once. Keep the pancakes warm in a low oven. Continue until all the batter is used. Serve the pancakes as you prefer, with butter, maple syrup, honey or molasses. (See below)

FROM DORIS’ KITCHEN

I love to make pancakes and find that if I fix the batter several hours beforehand and refrigerate (sometimes overnight), they turn out much better. I also like to serve pancakes and waffles with a variety of syrups. This recipe, which is especially delicious with apple pancakes, comes from Marcia Adams’ cookbook, “Heirloom Recipes.”

CIDER SYRUP

¾ cup cider or apple juice

½ cup packed light brown sugar

½ cup light corn syrup

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 12 to 15 minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve.

JELLY SYRUP

I like to make jelly and jam and often have more than I can use. Use any kind of jelly and jam for a delicious and different kind of spread for pancakes.

1 cup jelly, marmalade or jam

¼ cup orange, cranberry or other fruit juice

3 tablespoons butter

Combine the jelly or jam with the fruit juice and heat over low heat until jelly is melted. Mix in the butter and allow it to melt. Serve warm.

BROWN SUGAR PECAN SYRUP

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

⅛ teaspoon salt

¾ cup water

2 tablespoon heavy cream (optional)

½ to ¾ cup toasted pecans

In a saucepan, combine the brown sugar, salt and water. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, and then cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the cream for a richer syrup and add the pecans. Best served warm.

Doris Reynolds is the author or When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet was Fried” and a four-part DVD,”A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds”. They are for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com.