I have a vinyl tramp and wouldn't trade it for a mesh. I sail in Georgia where water temps can get pretty cold. The vinyl tramp blocks most of the water spray making sailing in the winter a bit more bearable. Although more "serious" sailors may use mesh, it won't make a bit of difference in boat performance. Also, water does not pond in my tramp since I have it very tight. My 2 cents!

Although more "serious" sailors may use mesh, it won't make a bit of difference in boat performance. Also, water does not pond in my tramp since I have it very tight. My 2 cents!

Except for the fact that the mesh is a little more forgiving in regards to the potential capsize. I used to have a solid tramp and capsized regularly. Haven't capsized once since installing the mesh. The point of no return is higher with the mesh since it catches less wind than the solid !!!

I would appreciate any and all thoughts concerning the rebuild. I am sure that there are new and better ideas that have come up over the past 20 years.

Check the standing rigging for frays in the shrouds and the anchor pins for bends or cracks. If you're suspicious then replace the shrouds, anchor pins, and check the bridal tangs, too, as they are known to fail. Anchor pins are the number one reason for dismasts and the new ones are reportedly stronger than the ones made in the past.

If you do replace the shrouds and forestay then beware that Hobie has changed the lengths since 1980. The new shrouds from Hobie allow for more mast rake, but if you have the original jib then it won't be cut for the increased rake causing the leech to flutter. There are a few solutions:1. If you buy standing rigging from a Hobie dealer then you may need a new jib if the increased rake causes too much leech flutter in the old one. This isn't such a bad thing since jibs wear out faster than mains and the leech will begin to flutter anyway. You could also try adjusting the mast to be more upright to eliminate the flutter as much as possible - one way of doing this is to add another or longer chain plate adjuster.2. Replace the standing rigging with new wires made to the lengths of your current ones. But beware that with a more upright mast (as 1980 boats had) the boat is more prone to pitchpoling.

Order a Hobie catalog with a parts diagram so you can easily order the parts you need.

Thanks everyone for all the help!!What kind of prep is necessary before I paint the frame and mast? And how durable is the finish? I had not considered painting the parts but if it works that is a plus. All my past Hobie's had the anodized aluminum.I do plan on replacing all the standing rigging. It was my understanding that the new shrouds and forestay help going to weather. Is this true? What year did Hobie start with the new rigging and new jib?Thanks very much for all the help.Mark

I do plan on replacing all the standing rigging. It was my understanding that the new shrouds and forestay help going to weather. Is this true?

Only if the rest of your boat is set up to handle the additional mast rake - low profile blocks (both main and jib), the newer jib cut and rudder rake set to balance the helm.

Thanks for the reminder about increased rake affecting rudder helm. Mark, if you do rake your mast expect the pull on the tiller to increase. To lighten the pull you'll either need to straighten the mast or re-drill the holes in the rudders to move the tips further forward.

seaweed88 wrote:

It was my understanding that the new shrouds and forestay help going to weather. Is this true?

Yes. Raking also moves the center of effort further aft which causes the heavy tiller, and also reduces the boat's tendency to pitchpole. There's very little downside to raking the mast on a 16.

I have a set of low profile main blocks and I am going to either find a newer set of adjustable rudder castings or re drill the rudders. I was not aware of the jibs being re cut so I will have to figure that one out. I will also need to address the jib rigging. I believe Hobie changed the front and rear crossbar since the 80s. What has changed with the new main traveler and jib traveler?

In 1995, the traveler tracks (both main and jib) were made part of the crossbar extrusion. In addition to being less expensive to make, it reduced the sheet stack-up by about 1/2 in.

The main traveller car has changed, too - the bearings are larger and made of brass.It requires the integrated track or a replacement track.

The changes to the 16 over the past 30 years have been gradual, and any one of them is a not significant change. However, when taken in total, a 1980 Hobie 16 only looks like a 2000's era Hobie 16. They are different boats. It would be prohibitively expensive to make all the changes to the older boat to bring it up to speed with a newer boat - and some changes you can't make (like how much it weighs).

I have a set of low profile main blocks and I am going to either find a newer set of adjustable rudder castings or re drill the rudders.

Just acquiring a newer set of adjustable rudder castings may not be enough, but if you do, you may not have to re-drill the holes if you grind down (a little at a time) the stern of the radius on the upper casting. It took about 3 trips to the water before discovering that I had enough rudder rake to give me the helm I wanted after raking my mast.

When it comes to painting the boat, I only painted the mast and boom and they both have held up very well. Just clean them well, making sure that the surface contains no residue. If you can, paint them on a warm sunny day so that they dry evenly. The finish is smoooooooth. Doesn't look painted at all. Occasionally, I'll get a scratch where hardware on the main halyard will reciprocate (over time) when the main is lowered and cause a scratch (to the metal) in a specific location but I haven't had to touch-up one of those in more than a year.The sides, I covered with Surefoot Eva Grip. They've been covered (without replacement) for about 4 years.

My therory is, if you want something to last, take care of it. I'm just talkin about me.

Your boat looks great David. I will replace the rear traveler car when I take the frame apart to epoxy it. I think I think I found a used tramp and it is to cold to paint anything outside. I will start working on the rudder system in the next couple weeks. Thanks for the help.

David, I have just finished painting my H16 rudder casings etc and used an automotive rattle can for roll bars. They look real good. I will be doing a mast next (silver painting black) and wondered what paint you used since your results seem good. BTW your cat is just awesome I love the mods you made to it, real clean. Kudos

Actually, I used Krylon spray primer on the mast & boom and now,the spi pole. Just follow the directions in my post above and you should be quite happy. Would like to see some pics if you get a chance. I just might try my cross bars, depending on how yours look. Planning on getting the newer rudder system so they should take care of themselves. Hope all works well for you.