Monday, 15 February 2010

Back on the saddle after a 2 days break in Gondar. There is a part of luck in remaining EFI and it was again on my side. We were supposed to have only one rest day in Gondar, but because our Dinner Truck engine blew, we got an extra day. That was just what I needed to recover from my plumery problems. I would have probably not be able to get back riding a day earlier as I was still pissing blood yesterday morning. But by the afternoon, the antibiotics started kicking in and this morning, I was fine.

The 2 days in Gondar were really fun for everybody. Many riders went to the local brewery who had invited TDA for unlimited amount of free beers. Unfortunately, I had to pass on that one and work on my physical recovery. What all of us did was eat, eat and eat... Everybody has lost weight, some like me who were already thin at the start are now looking anorexic. It was funny to compare TDA riders at the hotel with other Western tourists that had flown in Gondar. They all looked so fat compare to us. I was not the only one to notice that. Jason made a similar comment.

Yesterday, I was so hungry that nothing would satisfy my appetite. For lunch, I had spaghetti bolognaise topped with a large steak with fries. At dinner, a big steak with a double portion of fries again accompanied by another huge portion of spaghettis. In between that, I also downed a full size pot of Nutella in my hotel room and 2 packets of Cajun Nuts. I also drunk about 10 cokes and put triple amount of sugar in my numerous coffees. For breakfast, I had double helpings, ordering an extra omelet which I ate with my marmalade bread. Yesterday, the only thing that would slow down my eating was the size of my mouth...

Everybody agreed that today was the most scenic day of the tour so far. It was amazing! We had 2 big climbs, the first one felt like an Alpine climb with switch backs and a proper col with a technical descent. The mountains of Ethiopia are so beautiful. In between the mountains are large flat high altitude plateaus that give the cyclists a chance to recover before the next climb. The plateaus are full of life mainly farming communities with cattle and a land that looks pretty fertile, but dry at this season. Talking of altitude, now it makes sense why so many Ethiopians win the running competitions. We can really feel the fact that we are at an average altitude that is above 2000 meters. Today during the first climb, I thought the antibiotics had closed down my lungs until I realised that other riders were also breathing heavily. On a positive note, it is also cooler and therefore much nicer to ride.

Kids were still a problem with stones flying at us while some young men were experiencing javelin throwing with their sticks. Everybody walks with a stick here, so it is impossible to anticipate if they might trow it at you. I stopped for a few pictures, but had to get riding again as kids appear from every corner of the bush if you stop, and within minutes it is chaos. Anyway, let's be fair and I would like to remind you that the stone throwing kids are a minority. Most kids are just so exited when they see us, they just go mad because we probably are the most incredible encounter they have with a foreigner. Ethiopia has some tourism, but we are quite unique. Most "normal" tourist visit Ethiopia on air conditioned 4x4 's passing these villages at a lightening speed, giving no chance to interact with them. So when we pass them on our bicycles, we are physically so close that they probably unleash all the feelings they have about the "you you's"

I was still a teenager when I first heard about Ethiopia. It was the biggest world aid effort ever, lead by big names like Bob Geldof, and even I, then gave some of my pocket money to save Ethiopia from starvation. 3 decades later, it seems Ethiopia still survives on foreign aid. At least that is how each young Ethiopian seems to perceive a foreigner; as a donor of something. As soon as they see you, they turn their palms up at you and all you hear is " money, money, gimme money"... Sometimes the more sophisticated children ask for pens or T shirts, but it is definitely a very unhealthy relationship since it is all based on begging. If you are too hard and chase them away, that is when stones start flying, so the trick is to interact with these kids while you are riding away from them. Not easy, especially when you have to do that again and again and again... But today was the day when I had the least problems with stones being thrown at me and that seemed to be the reason. Hardy, a German rider is probably the one who deserves a special mention. Let me tell you about Hardy. He is one of the nicest person I have ever met. Firstly he is a very strong rider, always constant, he rides a very robust (heavy) bike and never drops the pace. He only has positive things to share, and even when the hills are so steep that I cannot get hands of my handle bar, Hardy still salutes every kid and finds the energy to shout a few nice words at everybody. What a nice guy! I am definitely starting to follow his example with kids. They love him, and he seems to have much less problems with stones than most of us.

My plan today was to ride fast and spend as little hours on the saddle as possible in order to give my damaged bladder some relief. So I rode the 117 km in 4 and a half hours including a short lunch break and a few photo stops. My legs were so strong, I could not believe it. The climbs felt easy and when I saw the finish line flag, it felt like the perfect ride, great scenery, good road, nice climbs and it was not too hot yet as time was only half past 12h00. I had ridden the afternoon section alone, enjoying long moments of silence and solitude (a luxury in Ethiopia) between the busy villages.

Camp was another story as all the surrounding kids had started gathering around our trucks. It felt like hyenas and meat, and we were the meat. These kids are so poor that anything we own is worth a fortune for them. Even a water bottle is a loot for them, so it is a new challenge tonight, pack, hide and protect every bit of equipment you own. There are so many of them that you chase a few getting too close to your tent and in the meantime another group uses the opportunity to sneak in. It is annoying of course, but I cannot resist the idea of thinking that if we swapped sides, I probably would also try my luck against "rich foreigners" who put up their tent in my village with treasures such as my laptop worth more money than I would ever make in a life time. The wealth difference between us and them is so huge that I can only forgive them for trying to steal anything. The best is to keep things hidden and reduce the appeal. As I am writing this, you have to imagine the scene. It is afternoon and I am in my tent, which is opened from both sides in order to let air flow and not cook inside. I am the biggest attraction here, first because I have the biggest tent and second because I have been writing on my laptop which is the only electronic equipment I have taken out of the bag. But this already has attracted a crowd of kids of all sizes and ages; Some are half naked, others are wearing broken and dirty rags. Strange feeling for me too, unfortunately, I am not gonna be able to fix Ethiopia's problems from my tent, so all I can do is keep on writing and share this with you.

A typical rock formation in Ethiopia. Note the child already running towards me.
I tried to stop where ther was nobody in order to be able to take a photo without
beeing chased by kids, but within 2 minutes, I was surrounded.

Ethiopia is really beautiful

Hold on, what's the solid white line for?

Our lunch stop under a magnificent figue tree and surrounded by the very surprised locals.

Me, pointing at some remains of some war...

I rode with Adam today and he offered to take a few shot of me riding, so here is one.

Roads in Africa are busy with all kind of vehicle, people and animals all transporting
something, somehow, somewhere....

Kids around our camp

We were the biggest attraction in this little place in the middle of rural Ethiopia.
Kids watched us building and packing our tents with some fascination. Some of
them a bit too interrested about getting hold of anything they could grab, had to
be chased away.

As I was writing inside my tent for the blog, these more daring kids came to
have a good look at what was this misterious black box which I was hitting
with my fingers for hours without speaking.... The white man must be crasy....

Since our dinner truck is broken, we have a temporary open truck on
which we load all our bags. A new engine is on its way from Nairobi
and hopefully we'll get our lockers back in a near future.
(hopefully before we get to equatorial Africa)

COMMENTS AND MESSAGES FOR GERALD

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ROUTE MAP

The Tour D' Afrique Race

From Cairo to Cape Town....12 000 km, 10 countries, 96 days of cycling averaging 130 km each. 22 resting days. A total of 120 days to cross the continent and race with 40 over competitors.

This adventure race will challenge my body and mind like no other, crossing some of the most exotic places on earth, pedaling pass places like Kilimanjaro, Victoria falls, lake Malawi...

This race will also be about meeting people, sharing their lifes, their food, their culture.

Become a follower and you will receive regular updates and photos of this incredible adventure!

TRANSLATOR

ME

My name is Gerald Coniel, I am 45 y.o and I must be crazy!... But why be normal?...

HELP ME DONATE BIKES!

Each year the Tour D'Afrique organisation donates bicycles to health care associations in the countries we cross. One bike can deliver medicines up to 100 people a day. Last year 320 bikes were distributed... In 2010, we have donation ceremonies planned for Addis Ababa, Nairobi, Arusha, Lilongwe, Lusaka, Windhoek and Cape Town.

I will be handing over the bikes myself. You will see on this blog when, where, and to whom the bikes went.Join me in raising money for purchasing as many bikes as possible.www.tourdafrique.com/foundation

To participate, mail me at gconiel@andorra.ad100 euro buys one bike, it is the most efficient way to help I have ever heard. Get together with a few friends and offer one bike, make me proud! Imagine what an impact you can make with 100 euro!

MASAI STEPPE

MAP OF TANZANIA

MASAI STEPPE

SectionsFull Tour
Cairo to Cape TownPharaoh's Delight
Cairo to KhartoumThe Gorge
Khartoum to Addis AbabaMeltdown Madness
Addis Ababa to NairobiMasai Steppe
Nairobi to IringaMalawi Gin
Iringa to LilongweZambezi Zone
Lilongwe to Victoria FallsElephant Highway
Victoria Falls to WindhoekDiamond Coast
Windhoek to Cape TownMasai Steppe
Nairobi to Iringa
Start: March 14, Nairobi, Kenya
Finish: March 25, Iringa, Tanzania
Price: €950 Distance: 1,012km
Riding Days: 9 days
Resting Days: 3 days
(difficulty)
(exotic factor)
(comfort)
If scenes of Wildebeest migration and big cat kills on the Discovery or National Geographic Channel are your favourite vision of Africa, then this is the section of the Tour d'Afrique for you. One day south of Nairobi, you will arrive at the border of Tanzania and immediately spot the unmistakable Mount Kilimanjaro and its smaller sibling, Mount Meru. From there, it’s a day’s pedal to the rapidly growing and vibrant city of Arusha. As the gateway to such famous attractions as Serengeti National Park, Ngorogoro Crater, and “Kili,” Arusha is East Africa’s safari capital. Here riders are given 3 days off, affording them the opportunities to experience wild Africa at its most spectacular, to shop in the local stores and markets, or simply to rest and replenish their energies.
Heading south from Arusha, the red-cloaked Masai tribesmen will be your constant companions as you spin along roads with relatively little traffic, keeping an eye out for zebra and giraffe. At Lake Manyara you trade the tarmac for several challenging days of ascents and descents – the Masai Steppe – on a rougher gravel road, that can be treacherous in places if the rainy season has arrived. However the friendliness of the villagers, the roadside banana stands, and the sheer beauty of this unique and verdant land ensures that come rain or shine, this stretch is one of the most memorable on Tour. After passing through Tanzania’s modern capital of Dodoma, you hit pavement again shortly before the pleasant town of Iringa, which is the gateway to nearby Ruaha National Park, and a regional center of the Ismaili Islamic sect.

PLACES TRAVELLED IN KENYA

MELTDOWN MADNESS

South of Addis Ababa, the terrain changes again to rolling countryside interspersed with alkaline lakes. After passing Mount Guraghe and Lake Abaya, riders will arrive in Arba Minch (Forty Springs), which is renowned for its beautiful views, Crocodile farm, and nearby Nechisar National Park. In Yabello, you can visit the wildlife sanctuary where you might catch a glimpse at some of Africa's rarest birds such as the Prince Ruspoli Turaco. Most of the riding for this stretch is on reasonably good pavement, with one exception - a tough off-road day between Kanso and Yabello through remote villages inhabited by the Borena people.
The crossing from Ethiopia into Kenya at Moyale marks the beginning of the “meltdown” portion of this section. It takes 6 riding days to cross the unpaved lava expanse of northern Kenya’s Dida Galgalu desert, which for long stretches redefines the words bumpy and corrugated. At the midway point the market town of Marsabit, set on the slopes of an ancient volcano, offers a welcome respite before the “road” descends again into the arid lands that are home to the Samburu people and their herds of camels and cattle. Approaching Isiolo, riders rejoice at the sight of pavement, and the opportunity to have a well deserved beer or ice cream bar. From there, the route ascends and then descends the western slopes of majestic Mount Kenya, before crossing the equator in Nanyuki, which is a short day’s ride from Nairobi, East Africa’s largest city.
The “Meltdown” features some of the most diverse changes in scenery and riding conditions, from plateau to desert to savannah. Cycling the “Meltdown” in its entirety is an impressive accomplishment for any cyclist.

MAP OF ETHIOPIA

PLACES TREVELLED IN ETHIOPIA

THE GORGE

From Khartoum to the border of Ethiopia, the Tour passes through the “bread basket” of the Sudan. The countryside gradually changes as you cycle towards Ethiopia and witness the transformation from the Arabic Muslim world of northern Africa to the more tribal and traditional nature of the Horn of Africa.
Once in Ethiopia, the ride of your life begins. Ethiopia contains some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world as well as one of its most unique and ancient cultures. This section will challenge your body more than any other due to the high altitude riding, not least during the first two days in country when the Tour takes the rough but slowly improving road up onto the plateau from Metema to the Gondar road junction. The second of these days features the most climbing – some 2500 meters - of any day on tour.
The Ethiopian Highlands offer several fascinating stops including Gondar city with its 17th century castles, and Bahir Dar where you can visit ancient monasteries on islands in Lake Tana and the Blue Nile Falls. While some riders may hesitate to sample such wonders of Ethiopian cuisine as injera (flat bread), shuro wat (chick pea stew), and kitfo (steak tartare), no-one can resist the espresso and juice bars found in all the larger towns.
From a cycling standpoint, the highlight of this section will be the Blue Nile Gorge, a 1600-meter precipitous descent and ascent on a newly paved road that will test the mettle of cyclists of any caliber. Once you have conquered the Blue Nile Gorge, the beautiful terrain of the central Ethiopian plateau will whiz by as you spin towards the capital city of Addis Ababa. The descent from the eucalyptus forested hills that surround Addis into the downtown core is an experience you will not soon forget.

PHARAOH'S DELIGHT

The Tour d'Afrique starts at the legendary Pyramids of Giza, on the outskirts of Cairo. As one of the wonders of the world, the Pyramids are a perfect embarkation point for the intrepid journey ahead, and the Sphinx bows its head in respect as you cycle past and bid farewell to Africa’s largest city.
After riding to the Red Sea and down the coastal highway to Safaga, you climb inland and cross the rugged Eastern desert into Upper Egypt, joining the Nile River at Qena. In Luxor, the opportunity to explore the magnificent temple of Karnak and the Valleys of the Kings and Queens is one not to be missed. From there, the Route continues south along the banks of the mother Nile towards the Aswan Dam.
From Aswan you will travel overnight by boat down Lake Nasser and past the Abu Simbel monuments into Sudan, one of the world’s most remote and least visited countries. But as you will discover, the Sudanese are some of the world’s friendliest people. For many riders this is where the “real” Africa begins. With the Nile River as companion, you will spin past minarets and through palm grove villages that have hardly changed in hundreds of years. Change is however coming more rapidly now as the sandy tracks that the Tour used to traverse the Nubian desert on are replaced by smooth Chinese funded tarmac. This section ends with a convoy ride into the Sudanese capital city of Khartoum, which sits at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile rivers. After the heat and dust of the desert, Khartoum seems to be part oasis and part mirage, especially when one enters the air-conditioned ABSA shopping center, where milk shakes, gourmet coffees, a supermarket and even bowling can be found.
The "Pharaoh's Delight" is for those who want to feel the desert wind on their face and experience the romance of biking along one of the great rivers of the world through the lands of the Pharaohs, the Nubians and the Cush. At times you will feel like you are one of the first travelers to come upon these forgotten lands. And on a bicycle, that’s pretty much the truth.