A boat, if not too big, will have a very light tongue weight. Probably do-able with the stock hitch and a 4' extension. However, a Jeep on a flat bed trailer will have a much heftier tongue weight. The stock hitch's tongue weight rating will likely be exceeded with that heavy a tongue weight out on a 4' extension.

I would ditch the stock hitch and go with a Torklift Superhitch and Supertruss, or a Reese Titan or Curt Magnum and one of their extensions.

kerry4951 wrote:I use the factory hitch on my Silverado and the Reese 43" extension. Its a Class V hitch and I feel comfortable with what I am towing.

MINE CRACKED AND FAILED--same hitch.

Granted, you're hauling a lighter trailer, but at the time, mine was no elephant hauler either, small 17 foot boat, roughly 100lb tongue weight also. I could pick up the tongue myself, and that's what I guessed it at.

I'm not trying to bash Kerry, but DO NOT run an extension on a factory hitch. They were never designed for the torque factors involved with that kind of extension---think about slamming on the brakes, and the kind of pushing and twisting factors that go on.

Take it from someone who turned absolutely white when I saw the cracking on my Reese hitch. It could have literally failed at any time, sent my boat flying, and killed whomever was unlucky enough to be near me.

Superhitch is DOT Rated for Class V @ 4 foot extension. I also haul a built to snot Jeep JK wheeler on a flatbed, and still have the same boat.

Again, MINE CRACKED AND FAILED. DON'T DO IT! PLEASE take this advice from someone who actually had it happen.

Anyone else who is saying "oh sure, give it try, it'll be fine", please also have them show you their Engineering Masters degree, or DOT certificate saying it's RATED and LEGAL to do it.

Those of you who know me here know I don't get worked up about any topic, but as you can tell, I'm VERY insistent on this....

kerry4951 wrote:I use the factory hitch on my Silverado and the Reese 43" extension. Its a Class V hitch and I feel comfortable with what I am towing.

MINE CRACKED AND FAILED--same hitch.

Granted, you're hauling a lighter trailer, but at the time, mine was no elephant hauler either, small 17 foot boat, roughly 100lb tongue weight also. I could pick up the tongue myself, and that's what I guessed it at.

I'm not trying to bash Kerry, but DO NOT run an extension on a factory hitch. They were never designed for the torque factors involved with that kind of extension---think about slamming on the brakes, and the kind of pushing and twisting factors that go on.

Take it from someone who turned absolutely white when I saw the cracking on my Reese hitch. It could have literally failed at any time, sent my boat flying, and killed whomever was unlucky enough to be near me.

Superhitch is DOT Rated for Class V @ 4 foot extension. I also haul a built to snot Jeep JK wheeler on a flatbed, and still have the same boat.

Again, MINE CRACKED AND FAILED. DON'T DO IT! PLEASE take this advice from someone who actually had it happen.

Anyone else who is saying "oh sure, give it try, it'll be fine", please also have them show you their Engineering Masters degree, or DOT certificate saying it's RATED and LEGAL to do it.

Those of you who know me here know I don't get worked up about any topic, but as you can tell, I'm VERY insistent on this....

Thanks, I appreciate the warning. I do know that GM increased their later model hitches. Mine is rated at 7500 lb towing/ 1000 lb tonque weight and 13,000 lb towing/1500 lb TW with distribution. Earlier GM trucks from what I read had only a 500 lb tongue rating, and there were some issues. I have a problem when I look and compare my OEM hitch to a Reese Titan and it appears to me that the GM hitch is actually built better and beefier. I just could not see removing a factory hitch for something that atleast to me appears lighter. I am aware that Torklift is king, but I also know alot have resorted to the Titan hitch. I am also very safety conscious and not afraid to spend money for that feature. I know that most serious TC owners that tow recommend Torklift, so I get that. For those of us that haul relatively light, I would be curious as to what others continue to use safely and with no isues. I might add that I have put on over 6K miles so far and absolutely no issues.

Quote:SuperHitch is the only way to go. It's how I hauled my Jeep on a flat bed.

Ok, its a blanket statement but there are other ways and have a certified installation too. I agree, that the Superhitch is one of the many ways and a great way too, but not the only way. In my case, I went a different direction.

Quote:SuperHitch is the only way to go. It's how I hauled my Jeep on a flat bed.

Ok, its a blanket statement but there are other ways and have a certified installation too. I agree, that the Superhitch is one of the many ways and a great way too, but not the only way. In my case, I went a different direction.

ticki2 wrote:Who certified the installation , and what exactly did they certify ?

I was speaking to an important comment made by boatycall

boatycall wrote:Anyone else who is saying "oh sure, give it try, it'll be fine", please also have them show you their Engineering Masters degree, or DOT certificate saying it's RATED and LEGAL to do it.

It was and is not my intention to hijack a thread, especially this one. This topic comes up often and I am glad that it does, as there is new information that comes forward and new experiences from new members and seasoned members, of this forum. But to say that this is the only one that will work, is a not totally accurate. Too often, we want something that comes out of a "box" and often times, that is just compromising, but convienient. If it works for you, fine, if you are interested in alternatives, that should be considered too. In my case, I wanted an alternative and seeked one out and was happy that I did. Just like in any business, some things just don't come from a "box," but needs to be manufactured or duplicated. Otherwise we would never see new Battleships or Spaceships. From my background, I knew it was simply seeking out a certified welder. I am not versed on the terminology of welding certifications, but I do know where to find these welders that are certified to weld/manufacturer hitches on Crane Trucks, for railroads cars and bulk containers. Items made by these craftsman are then carrying the certification of their craftsman and the liability of the corporation that provides it. Thats all.

In an earlier thread clicky, on this type of discussion, I supplied photos and descriptions, of my custum hitch, produced by an upfitter, who has supsquently worked on two other RV.net forum members Trucks/TCs.

I just feel that one should always consider all the options and what best works for them. IMHO

Quote:SuperHitch is the only way to go. It's how I hauled my Jeep on a flat bed.

Ok, its a blanket statement but there are other ways and have a certified installation too. I agree, that the Superhitch is one of the many ways and a great way too, but not the only way. In my case, I went a different direction.

b

Yes, it's a blanket statement because it's the best solution for hauling heavy trailers.

I have yet to see another solution that offers the capacity and the security that the superhitch does.....especially with a 48 inch extension.

northernlimits wrote:I have yet to see another solution that offers the capacity and the security that the superhitch does.....especially with a 48 inch extension.

Ok. "I can lead a horse to water, but I can't make him drink." I can provide you a link and if you chose not to look, that is your option. Me? I will just keep on down the road, using something we used on hay wagons hitched to F600 and F700s back in the 70s and I am currently using on my F550. We do agree on one thing, a Superhitch will work. But I would add, up to a point and that is what boatycall is addressing, what the Superhitch is connected too. An item is only as strong as the weakest link.

I must agree that a thread like this is much needed on a regular basis. Towing is a serious issue. I know I am again thinking about my options to upgrade what I have been using. Maybe I will be lucky enough to get a nice income tax refund to pay for a new Torklift set up. I know I appreciate all the input from others.