Description

Berchtesgaden is a land of twisted pagan, Nazi, white gold, and climbing history. The town became rich 1000 years ago when fine salt deposits were found in massive amounts. You can tour mines still operating today (fun, for real). The Third Reich fancied up the place during WWII as a retreat including Kehlstein "Eagles Nest," which was a gift for Hitler's 50th birthday. Today it seems the pagans have endured best. Their anti-St. Nick holiday of Krampus in early december each year brings men dressed as demons wielding whips made of vine, to punish poor behavior and take the women of their choice. But alas, through all the toil, Berchtesgaden is home to many classic alpine climbs, including the Watzmann, whose famous Ostwand was climbed solo in the winter of 1953 by none other than Hermann Buhl. The best way to view this classic wall, is to take a boat ride on Königssee, where the water is more pure than 90percent of the worlds drinking water. Maybe it is the water that turns out climbers like the Huber brothers.

Getting There

TRAIN: From Munich, or Salzburg. AUTO: From Munich take the A8 past Chiemsee, to Mauthausen, then go south on the 21/20 through Bad Reichenhall, and stay the 20 towards Bischoffswiesen, and stay the 20 to Berchtesgaden. From Salzburg: Go south on the A10 to the 160/305 south toward St. Leonhard, follow the 305 into Berchtesgaden.

Pleasure climbing at its best, this route has a little of everything. It's mostly slab (as the route's name implies), but the 10th and 11th pitches offer up more vertical and slightly overhanging climbing.The crux is on pitch 4 and climbs thin side-pulls to reach a juggy ledge. It can also be aided (and is therefore obviously well protected) or dynoed. The rest of the pitches typically range between UIAA 4 and 5 (5.5 - 5.8), though there are several easier pitches, including an unprotected walk ...[more]Browse More Classics in International