The nut piece that your saying is busted off originally was used for the recoil starter that was standard equipment on the super versa-matic. 9 out of 10 tractors they are missing from because the recoil starter would fail the owner would remove it trash it then use a rope. The super versa was introduced in 1954 an continued till at least 1960 with only slight changes made throughout production I have a very early model as well as one of the last produced can't hardly tell them apart. These are very handy units an a lot of fun to work have tended a garden several times using one from plowing to cultivating also used a lot to push snow You can't beat these little kohlers they knew what they was doing when they built them. Looks like you have a pretty complete unit only missing the belt guard from what I can see

I usually determine the approximate year by the shade of green and yellow used and by the model number of the machine.

I usually determine the approximate year by the shade of green and yellow used and by the model number of the machine.
they all look pretty similar though.

. The newer ones they omitted the chrome pieces of the hood an the first year production the hubs are slightly different an the hole for grease zert fitting is smaller on thr belt guard an of course they switched to kohler k-91 on the newer ones as well

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Okay checked again after work, there is no spark at all, so next step will be to check and or replace ignition goodies. Do you all recommend that I replace all ignition components, have to first off say,I'm not a seasoned mechanic,so I do value all your input. Thanks.

To access ignition , looks like I need to remove flywheel, and I see three screws on the flywheel itself, do I remove the screws then slide flywheel off. Thanks again jim

Here you can see the partially broken off crank stud, I have just enough thread ,to get a nut on, and seems to work, hopefully good enough to let me get the engine up and running. In the long run, I believe I will have to fix this issue, not sure how involved that gets. But first things first, I really want to see if engine starts up. How do I go about removal of flywheel , I assume the coil and points are behind

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Here you can see the partially broken off crank stud, I have just enough thread ,to get a nut on, and seems to work, hopefully good enough to let me get the engine up and running. In the long run, I believe I will have to fix this issue, not sure how involved that gets. But first things first, I really want to see if engine starts up. How do I go about removal of flywheel , I assume the coil and points are behind

Coil is behind the flywheel, the points are externally located on the side of the engine. (Right below the carb)

Removed points, looked wore pretty good, it was difficult setting them .020 with engine on tractor, I could hardly get at the adjustment screw. Do most people remove the engine from tractor to do points/ ignition work? When I first removed the cover exposing the points , I found that the hardly opened when I hand cranked engine, so I cleaned up points best I could, set close to .020 , and after all that no spark. So I assume the coil is bad or anything else to check before removing the flywheel. Thanks jim

The base of the points needs to ground to the block in order to work properly. I have seen cases where they don't because the base is not making good contact anymore. That happened because the engine sat and oil had congealed under the points, creating an insulator. I messed with a Wisconsin one time that had done that, and it took me forever to finally make that one run. After I removed the points, cleaned them off with solvent, cleaned out the points box, and reinstalled the points, the engine ran just fine. (I certainly felt stupid for not catching that one faster.) The oil got into the points box past the actuator rod.

You did set the gap with the points at their most open position, right? The points have to be shiny and real clean and make good contact. Run a business card through them and see if any dirt comes out. A crisp bill works good for cleaning too. You can ohm check the primary side of the coil to ground with the points and condenser unhooked. Should be 1-2 ohms. Check the secondary from the plug wire to block. Should be in the 4-10K ohm range.