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Thursday, 14 February 2013

There’s perhaps no greater temptation than that which you can’t have. And that’s exactly how Marchesa’s
fall collection was born. “George called me from L.A. saying, ‘I’ve
found these vintage toreador trousers. They’re fabulous,’” recalls Keren Craig, referring to her partner Georgina Chapman.“They were the tiniest trousers I’d ever seen,” continues Chapman, due
with her second child in eight weeks. “There’s nothing like something
you can’t get into when you’re pregnant.”

So both the
pants and their elaborate embroidery wove their way into the designers’
work this season. Of course through Chapman and Craig’s ultra-feminine
and gilded lens, that inspirational find became, one imagines, the black
satin bustier top with an exaggerated and dramatic peplum worn with
matching cropped pants with gold, floral threadwork down the sides one
of several pants-for-night looks. The women then took the equestrian
motif a few steps further by echoing the buttoned-up nature of a riding
costume with high-collared gauze shirts with billowing sleeves worn
under a strapless dress or blousing out over a corset. “You’re so
upright in a saddle,” Chapman noted. “It’s all about posture.” Indeed,
it would be a physical feat to slouch in a Marchesa dress, so intricate
is the scaffold of their interiors. Not that you’re able to tell in
every look. Pieces like the wonderful tulle frocks with floral
embroidery one black and off-the-shoulder with a body-hugging
silhouette; another one-shouldered and floor-length dress with tiers of
ruffles carried an appealing softness.

But more than just riff on
a theme, this collection signaled how Chapman and Craig are continuing
to evolve their business. What began as a label best known for frothy
Fantasyland looks has become something a bit more, well, realistic.
Really. And this is a good thing. The dresses this season felt more
reined in; they exhibited a stronger sense of tailoring and their
proportions are more in line with the parameters of life off the red
carpet (i.e., they fit through a doorway). Sure, major black tie dresses
might not really apply to everyday life, but consider these two things.
One, what’s the matter with a little escapism; and two, if what’s been
on the runways these last few days is any indication, there will be
plenty of effortless clothes in stores very soon.

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