Origin and Habitat: Swakopmund, NamibiaAltitude: 300-400 metres above sea level.Habitat:Lithops gracilidelineata var. waldroniae grows almost completely buried on pockets of windblown sand that gather in hollows between bigger blocks of marble and ironstone on the mountains. The soil is stabilized by a very thin crust, and is very friable when this crust is brocken.and look so much like the surface of ground that no one would suspect they of being plants, except when they produce their showy flowers. It strives in a very a arid area with less than 100 mm rain/per annum, but the extreme aridity is attenuated by the frequent, often dense costal fog (the humidity of the ocean furnish part of the water needed by this plants). The nocturnal condensation is also an important and conspicuous source of humidity, that (especially in winter) may wet the ground down to 2 cm in depth. The root system of the Lithops is sallow and allows them to uptake the maximum of this humidity.

Description:Lithops gracilidelineata var. waldroniae is a distinct variety of Lithops gracilidelineata easily recognizable for the clear pastel body and knobbed top with fine brown lines. The network of thin brown lines, which is the prominent feature of the top surface shows a is quite uniform in the way it anastomises and also in its colouration. Its face is very clear in colour and has one of the most opaque windows to be found in the genus. Habit: It rarely forms more than a single head or, if branched, forms only few bodies in a clump. It is variable, but conforms to the typical Lithops morphology: two thick, fleshy windowed leaves separated by a crack from which a yellow flower appears. The windowed part allows light into the inner portion of the leaf where the process of photosynthesis is carried out. Old leaves persist for one year usually, often for two years. Bodies (paired leaves): Top-shaped, truncate in profile, more or less convex, 30-50 mm 1ong, 20-38 mm broad; fissure shallow, faces flush, round to mostly elliptic, window opaque; top knobby, various shades of creamy-white or greysh-white. Windows very opaque an not evident, Rubrications usually a network of brown lines, mostly set in a fairly regular network of shallow valleys, margins not clearly distinguishableFlowers yellow 20-45 mm in diameter. Sepals 8 mm long, 2-3 mm broad. Fruits: 6(-7)-chambered, profile rotund to boat-shaped, top convex to peaked, faces broadly elliptic.

Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Lithops gracilidelineata group

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Cultivation and Propagation: The Lithops (a.k.a. Living Stones) are some of the world's most fascinating plants and are sought by the collector of succulent plants. Paying attention to the particular growing requirement of Lithops is especially important. If you provide the Lithops with the right conditions, they will reward you with their unique shape, size, colour and a proliferation of blooms in autumn. However, Lithops are tricky plants that are very particular about their growing conditions and require the right maintenance in order to keep happy. But don't be afraid even the best growers have plants that mysteriously dry up, or leave during the night. While Lithops are picky about their care, if you are patient and remember the basics, your efforts will be rewarded. Being small plants, a representative collection can be grown on a patio table, a sunny windowsill or a shelf in the greenhouse. Soil: They grow best in an open mineral, sandy-gritty soil and requires good drainage as they are prone to root rot. They can grow outdoor in sunny, dry, rock crevices (protection against winter wet is required) They can also be cultivated in alpine house, in poor, drained soil.Repotting: They may stay in the same pot for many years. Plants grown in larger containers have frequently relatively poor flowers. Flowers might improve when the plants are given their own, small individual pots. Watering They Require little water otherwise the epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). The basic cultivation routine is: Stop watering after flowering. Start watering after the old leaves are completely dry (usually late March or Early April). Water freely during the growing season, soak the compost fully but allow it to dry out between waterings. In the winter season the plant doesn’t need watering, the plant in this time extracts water from the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to shrivel away, relocating water to the rest of the plant and to the new leaves that form during this period. If grown in a container, bottom watering by immersing the container is recommended. Water sparingly only when warm, no water when cold. Nearly all problems occur as a result of overwatering and poor ventilation, especially when weather conditions are dull and cool or very humid. They must have very dry atmosphere.Fertilization: Feed them once during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (high potash fertilizer with a dilute low nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label. They thrive in poor soils and need a limited supplies of fertilizer to avoid the plants developing excess vegetation, which is easily attacked by fungal diseases. Some growers fertilize frequently, some hardly ever. However, for the highly succulent mesembs, (Lithops, Conophytums, etc.) fertilization is not really necessary.Light: They prefer a very bright situation and in winter they need the maximum amount of light you are able to give them, but keep more cool and partially shaded in summer. Outdoor (Lithops prefer full sun, with some shade in the hottest summer months. Hardiness: They require a minimum temperature 5°C (But will take a light frost and are hardy down to -7° C for short periods if they are in dry soil). USDA zones 9A – 11.Uses: Container, rock garden.Pests and diseases: They are vulnerable to mealybugs and rarely scale.Remarks: After flowering in the autumn and extending through winter season the plant doesn’t need watering, but they will still be growing, the new bodies will be increasing in size extracting water from the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to shrivel away. In fact the plant in this time extracts water and nutrient stored in the outer succulent leaves, allowing them to dehydrate relocating the water to the rest of the plant and to the new leaves that form during this period until the old leaves are reduced to nothing more than "thin papery shells".Propagation: Seed or (or rarely) cuttings. The small seeds can be sown in pots of fine, well-drained sand, any time during the spring and summer months when temperatures are warm. Cover the seeds with a very fine layer of grit and water from below with a fungicide to prevent damping off. For the first 3-4 days cover the pots with a sheet of glass/clear perspex to keep the humidity levels high. Remove the glass and replace it with light shadecloth and mist once or twice a day for the next two weeks after which most seeds should have germinated. From then on mistings can be reduced to every second and then every third day as the little plants grow. Take the cuttings from a grown-up mother plant. Each cutting must contain one or more heads along with a fraction of root and permit them to dry out a couple of days, lay the cuttings on the soil and insert the stem end partially into the soil. Try to keep the cutting somewhat upright so that the roots are able to grow downward. It is relatively difficult to root lithops from cuttings and generally pointless as well, so quick are they from seed.Comment: Improvement of lithops characteristics: Some growers (but not all!!) think it is very intriguing to reinforce any characteristic of cultivated Lithops of by crossing two similar selected plants and then back-crossing with the mother plant. This way we can eventually get some interesting results. Of course, many of the nicest Lithops we grow in cultivation have already been selected over time. However many Lithops are already nice plants which can’t really be improved, on the other hand one could try to improve the colour or the markings etc. Now if we have two particular plants we may attempt to breed between them and can maybe get a whole improved population and then select some better offspring to continue the selection.