Brake petal spongy

Did brake lines, have good pressure out of all bleeders and no air, brake light and abs light are not on but the first time you hit the brake its goes about half to the floor then second time there great, no leeks, master is full.

6 Suggested Answers

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Try jacking up car and put on stands as high as poss as you could have air returning when the pedal is returned ,so jack up car pump pedal 4 times fast and hold down bleed l/h/s/first ,do 2 times then the r/h/side and then push down pedal clamp rubber flex hose over back axlewith small G clamp if pedal good do same to FRONT

Assumeing you have no big leaks in the new brake lines witch you would see because there would brake fluid all over the ground I would say you didn;t bench bleed the new master cylinder There is air in this part when you buy it and you need to get it out before it will work Heres how you do it first you need a kit it consests of plugs that you screw into the holes that the brake lines go into but they have fittings for hoses to plug on to them you put the master cylinder into a vice screw the plugs into the holes put the hoses on the fittings and put the other end of the little hoses into the cylinder resivior fill the resiviors with brake fluid then take some kind of a tool i like to use a 6 inch 3/8 ths socket extentoin because not sharp but you could use a screw driver And push the piotion in from the back of the unit repeataly until you see now more air bubbles coming out of the two little hoses that are in the resiviors like ten or so pushes Then reinstall hook up the lines and bleed at wheel cylinders with wheel cylinder bleeding always start at the fertist wheel and work your way back to the closetes wheel Its not as hard as it may sound good luck

Sounds like there is a fault with the vacuum pump not generating enough vacuum for the brake booster assist, or a leaking vacuum hose. Try pinching off all the vacuum hoses to see if the problem goes away. Could also be a leak in the brake vacuum booster itself

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you still have some air in the lines. go back thru the bleed process again if that doesn't work, get to a power brake bleeder.(amazon about$70) that is a system that puts pressure on top of mc to push fluid thru the system as you open bleed screws. did you know you can adjust brakes by holding down lock button and pumping emergency brake handle. good luck

Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.

if it is the wheel cylinder that is leaking then it will have to be replaced and all the components cleaned with brake cleaner.depending how badly soaked the brake shoes are you may have to replace them also.you may have to heat the brake line that connects to the wheel cylinder,or even replace the line if it gets damaged.the bleed all the air out of the system,

JEEP VECHICLES 2001 MODELS AND UP HAS TO BE BLED USING A DRB BLEED TOOL.YOU HAVE TOW VECHICLE IN.MOST TIME YOU CAN TRY MANUAL BLEEDING BUT BRAKES WILL BE SPONGY AND ABS LIGHTS WILL TURN ON.THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO BLEED IN ORDER TO GET GOOD SOLID BRAKES AGAIN.

first of all make sure master cylinder is full of brake fluid.then you crank car leave foot off brake pedal. watch abs light on dash it should turn off in 10 seconds if not have car towed to garage or dealer. they have to use a scanner to scan the abs brakes if abs light turn off in 3 seconds. then starting bleeding from master bleed the lower brake line fitting at the proportional valve followed by the upper brake line fitting. keep eye on brake fluid in mastercylinder dont let run dry.next prime the abs hydralic modulator.connect the bleeder hose to the rear bleeder valve on the modulator.place the other end into a container partially filled with cleab brake fluid.make sure the end of the hose is submerged.open the bleeder valve slowly about 1/2 to 3/4 turn have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in the depressed position. when the flow of fluid ceases close the bleeder valve.repeat process until no air bubbles are present in the fluid.then tighten the bleed valve securely. start bleeding brakes. your bleeding sequence is right rear - left front - left rear - right front.WARNING IF ALL FAILS YOUR BRAKES DONT FEEL SOLID AND FEEL VERY SPONGY.DONT DRIVE CAR. HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP.THEY WILL HAVE TO PRESSURE BLEED YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM.

if you have not fitted brake pads to it [as these can take time to bed in ] and give the pedal a soft and extra travel feeeling you have air in the brake system the simple check to do is look behind all your wheels see if you can see brake fluid sepping down the back plates or any damp patchs which would inply there is a problem if not pick your bonnet up have a look around your master cylinder to see if theres any sign of a leak that was the easy bit if you can,t see anything you will have to take the wheels off to find out what is leaking don,t forget if you change one of the seals or calipers or cylinders on that axle change the other side yates210456