I hear you Skypilot. Too dark here to try a run. But I couldn't resist a bench run either, I thought to try it before too. When I tried it after updating, I think I heard a cry for help from the poor old 17.5.

Used Win 7, no problems at all doing the update. Can't wait for tomorrow, I've switched my plans from a smaller track that I was planning on checking out to a larger track just so I can let it loose a little more.

Starting from scratch:
1) Start out with a slow FDR (7.0) gear ratio
2) Start with #14 off and #15 at value 8
3) For 13.5 start with #12 at stage 4, for 17.5 at stage 6

A) The first thing to set is the RPM delay/gearing for the straight. Run the car and adjust #13 to where the boost is kicking in where you want it, and you want to gear it to make sure the car is still barely digging (accelerating) a the end of the straight. You want it to where it just barely doesnít top out.

B) #14 works together with #13. Adjust #14 up from zero one value at a time until itís making the kick come in later than it was before Ė then back it down one value.

C) Now you can tune the punch (#15) for the infield. Leave it alone if youíve got enough rip already, or try the car going up one value at a time. This setting has a huge influence on overall motor heat, so monitor temps constantly when dialing in more punch!

D) At this point, you should be set to go, or fine tune:

Fine tuning tips:
1) Different winds of motors are going to have different tolerance levels for overall boost and punch. Itís easy to overboost a 13.5 at the max setting. Too much advance will make the motor slower on the straight and have less torque just like over gearing will. It will also dramatically increase motor heat just like over gearing. Once youíve completed the above, you can experiment with more overall boost. You will most likely find a boost level that does NOT get faster than the next one lower. Thatís the motorís breaking point for that gear/boost level. Back down the boost to the next lower setting.

2) Same process for punch Ė too much, and the motor will turn into a dog in the infield and overheat quickly Ė back the punch down.

3) For large sweeping tracks where you can actually use a little boost in parts of the infield, experiment up and down with both #13 and 14 to find the right values to give you a little kick where you want it, but NOT where you donít want it. For almost ALL tracks however - just have the boost engage on the straight.

IN ALL MATTERS OF TUNING/GEARING/SOFTWARE SETTINGS:
The one and only goal should be faster LAP TIMES, not whether you are getting pulled, or are able to pass everyone on the straight. Top speed on the straight alone doesn't always directly translate into faster lap times.

When you fine tune gearing and software settings, always use the clock alone to gauge what's better or worse!
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Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

"Value 11" is like hangar 18 - it doesn't exist. If you keep on looking at it and asking questions, the men in black suits and dark shades will come to your door to reinforce the fact that it indeed does not exist. If you persist, the little gray spindly guys with big dark eyes will show up in your room late at night and perform "adjustments" to your hindquarters and mutilate your livestock. I know it's true - Art Bell has been telling me so for years.

But seriously - "Value 11" is reserved for some future goodies coming into the software soon. Time travel, quantum traction increase, levitation, drug free male enhancement - it's all on the table right now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer

You will NOT see the new values show up on anything but your original plastic LED box that came with your ESC.

I salute you.
Now i Know were in the right Plans
Excellent.

tiny question, can we do the
Custom Value RPM on "13" ?

i see the gap is too far more like 1000,
may be i would like to have like 500 step.
since not every 13.5t had the same kV.

i see the gap is too far more like 1000,
may be i would like to have like 500 step.
since not every 13.5t had the same kV.

.....give an inch, take a mile.

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Thats the problem that I asked about in the begining, I can't get the software to go into the speedpasion folder ( its in there but it just won't work) and work.

Any more suggestions on what to try.

I was trying to explain what I have done to correct the problem.

ie: uninstalled all speedpasion software ( more than once )

uninstalled the supercharger software (see above )

re-installed both several times fresh downloads for both

Still see no extra programs.

I run windows vista home premium too and had the same issues, after doing everything as instructed.
To get this to work all I did was to right click the speed passion application icon in C:\program files\speed passion v1.32 and go to compatibility tab and select run in compatibility mode for win xp and also check the box to run as administrator. All the new softwares are then available to view in the speed passion installer

Tried it on the track today in our 17.5t shootout and was not impressed by it. Tried pretty much all combinations of settings and went from 7fdr down to 4 to find it's actually not much of a difference from the previous stock software. I tried a duo 1 then switched to a 2.0 SP motor to no avail. On the bench, you can seasily spot the difference between the two. I used the newest version in the bundle, anyone got any tips for setting it up?

There were many new to the list of various verisoner. but which must begin with and what are the differences? v.1.1-100231Stock as an example? As I said, lots of new options .. all i have seen is 4S lipo and 6S lipo? or??