Jay Rayner of the Observer reviews Da Maria: “This tiny outpost of Naples is the pride and joy of Notting Hill. Now comes the terrible news that it is under threat.”

Da Maria on London’s Notting Hill Gate is not much to look at, literally. It is less a fully fledged restaurant than a strip-lit, table-laid cupboard. It looks like a sandwich bar with ambitions above its station, which is exactly what it is. The space did once just knock out sandwiches. Then the Ruocco family arrived and in 1980 opened it as a Neapolitan trattoria.