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Journal / Barrie last

From time to time I ask guests to post an entry that’s of interest to me and hopefully to you. This is a re-post from 2009 by Nick Horween which, IMHO is a very interesting discourse on the effect of sunlight and polish on shell cordovan. I really love these Longwings…..

The last post featured a picture of some old longwings that generated a fair amount of questions regarding patina, polishing, and the general care of Shell Cordovan. Maybe I should say re-generated, as we do get a fair amount of inquiries on the subject. In response, this will be the first in (at least) a three part series addressing these topics (and we’ll get on to something other than just shoes in the future – so if shoes aren’t your thing don’t give up on us).

Someone had recently asked if there was “a way to make shoes patina faster?” The short answer is, no. The long answer is, kind of.

They both started as the same color…

Patina, at least in my mind, is something that is produced by age and the level of care. How much sun the leather receives, how often it is polished, the climate, and an array of other factors will effect how a shoe (or a piece of furniture) will wear over time. The first picture in this post is two different shoes both made with our Color #8. The only difference (besides style and shoemaker) is that I left the Cap Toes in the sun for a couple of months. Both pairs have been well worn, but to the extent that the shoes on the left have lightened is very dramatic. I could have reduced the exposure if I’d wanted them to lighten less.

Same color, different shoe, different exposure.

The lightened shoes, with the shoe on the left polished.

In the picture above of the cap toes, the shoe on the left has been conditioned and then simply polished with a burgundy paste wax – the first picture in the post is also the polished shoe next to the longwing. You can see that the polish and conditioner have re-darkened the shoe to a degree, but it is still very light compared to the original color. The fading and then polishing has yielded yet another color with marked highs and lows. I find the new color appealing but it may not be for everyone. Also, this doesn’t necessarily fit my definition of a true “patina,” but it does illustrate the effect that wear and exposure has on shoes.

The same color again, the left is #8 after about 4 months of direct sunlight.

As a disclaimer, I do not really recommend doing this”. As some people have heard or read, the “lighter” and “darker” colors of cordovan are that way for a reason. The leather, being a unique medium, has highs and lows in terms of natural color. The darker shells are many times that way because this makes for the most uniform finished product. As our shells are stained with fully aniline stains (meaning no pigment to provide coverage of any kind), fading your darker colored shells may cause these color “differences” to become detectable, if they even exist at all.

Introducing a new longwing to our LWB lineup, just in time for summer: the Navy Chromexcel on Red Micro Soles. It’s our first Alden makeup in Navy CXL. Add the antique welt and contrasting laces, and these shoes become the perfect summer brogue. They’re lightweight and casual, and they’ll go great with white denim or shorts. On the classic Barrie last, they’re not to be missed.

Black shell cordovan really doesn’t get the love it deserves. It has a lacquered glow that you can only truly appreciate in person, and yet it maintains its shine with little care or maintenance.

These Horween Shell Cordovan boots are a versatile addition to your wardrobe that spans from jeans to a navy or grey suit. Their classic, simple design, reminiscent of vintage US Naval boots, makes them a three-season workhorse, made expressly for Leffot.

The double leather black bottom soles, with a 360-degree flat welt, enhance the boot’s simplicity while adding durability and comfort. Designed with nine black agatine eyelets and black* waxed laces these boots are spit-shined and ready to serve.

It’s hard to imagine a more perfect shoe for summer than Alden’s unlined suede Dover blucher. Made on the Barrie last in Tan Suede on Flex Welt soles these shoes are as light and soft as any sneaker, they’re also available in Snuff Suede.

With a quick spray of Nano Protector you can even wear these barefoot in the rain with utmost confidence, of course we’re hoping for sunny days ahead.

There are plain toe boots, there are wingtip boots and then there’s the Alden x Leffot Naval boot. New to Leffot in color 8 shell cordovan this boot is inspired by our original model in black shell.

Made to our specifications, we detailed these on the Barrie last with nine matching agatine eyelets, double leather soles, flat welt, antique edges and a classic 2 x 1 perforated captoe. This boot is as clean as a whistle and sure to be a staple in any wardrobe.

We love our Longwings from Alden; each is like one of our children beautiful in it’s own way. The design key of this particular model is its ability to deal with harsh weather with grace. and incredible comfort.

We’ve taken the classic Alden LWB design and given it all of the details needed for maximum durability and comfort.