Mituraju, West Face and Other Activity

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Climbs And Expeditions

Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru

Climb Year: 2010

Publication Year: 2011

Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at Jahuacocha lake - Gocha Cutan (4,066m) on May 20. From there they crossed a dangerous glacier and carried their equipment to high camp (5,000m) on the plateau beneath Rondoy, Mituraju, Jirishanca, Yerupajá Chico, and El Toro. Conditions in most of the mountains last May were very dry and dangerous, with falling rocks and many crevasses.

On June 5, on the west face of Mituraju (5,750m), Barrientos and Corpas established Está el Barrio Que da Miedo (750m, MD+ 90° M5 V5) to the summit ridge. The next day, Bonilla and Dani Crespo also climbed high on the west face, calling their efforts Pim Pam Toma Cornisazo (MD+ 90° M5 V5). Both attacks were made from the TAM glacier in one day each.

Later in July, in the Cordillera Blanca, Crespo and Bonilla died while attempting a new route on the west face of Chacraraju (6,112m). Beforehand they had climbed the Bouchard route on the same mountain, and also, with David Bautista, made the first almost-free (one pendulum) ascent of Papas Rellenas (650m, 6c A3) on Cerro Parón (a.k.a. La Esfinge, 5,325m), freeing the A3 section at 7b.

Mituraju, West Face and Other Activity

South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at Jahuacocha lake - Gocha Cutan (4,066m) on May 20. From there they crossed a dangerous glacier and carried their equipment to high camp (5,000m) on the plateau beneath Rondoy, Mituraju, Jirishanca, Yerupajá Chico, and El Toro. Conditions in most of the mountains last May were very dry and dangerous, with falling rocks and many crevasses.

On June 5, on the west face of Mituraju (5,750m), Barrientos and Corpas established Está el Barrio Que da Miedo (750m, MD+ 90° M5 V5) to the summit ridge. The next day, Bonilla and Dani Crespo also climbed high on the west face, calling their efforts Pim Pam Toma Cornisazo (MD+ 90° M5 V5). Both attacks were made from the TAM glacier in one day each.

Later in July, in the Cordillera Blanca, Crespo and Bonilla died while attempting a new route on the west face of Chacraraju (6,112m). Beforehand they had climbed the Bouchard route on the same mountain, and also, with David Bautista, made the first almost-free (one pendulum) ascent of Papas Rellenas (650m, 6c A3) on Cerro Parón (a.k.a. La Esfinge, 5,325m), freeing the A3 section at 7b.

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Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption

Author / Photographer: Equipo Español de Alpinismo

Publication Year: 2010

Caption: The Spanish climbing on the west face of Mituraju, with Está el Barrio Que da Miedo on the left (ending at the ridge).