Why you shouldn't always cook with extra-virgin olive oil

Dear Rinella,Extra-virgin olive oil is a staple, but it's not always the best choice for high-heat sautéing and pan-frying. First of all, it can be expensive. Plus, it has a relatively low smoke point, which, according to food scientist Harold McGee, is the "temperature at which a fat breaks down into visible gaseous products." That breakdown can ruin the taste of foods. So stock a couple of oils: a mild, inexpensive one with a higher smoke point, such as grapeseed oil, and a boutique extra-virgin olive oil for finishing touches.