Dedicated tools for Maverick Maintenance

Here is some of the tools I have machined for Maverick maintenance.
A special guide / axle to easily rebuilt 7/5 8 and Durance Monolinks, especially to reinsert the monolink into the rear and front triangles due to the tolerances.
A Special 24mm axle for Park Tool "Disc Mount facing tool" .
A special 24mm extension to fit Maverick and CK hubs on my wheels truing stand.
All the necessary Vise clamps for shock and fork.
And a collection of pivot bushings depending of the frames / tolerances.

I wished I had some of those tools. My bearing replacement tool is just a long bolt with a nut and two big washers. It works fine but getting the old bearing out of the monolink is always the problem. Any tips?

I also have several different thickness bushings. I tend to use thicker ones on the rear of the link, to keep the rear dropouts close to 135mm, but I wonder if I'm now side loading the bearings as a result, as lately I've worn through a few sets.

And then there are all those vice clamps. I never could pony up the big bucks for a Maverick service kit, and don't have the skills to make my own like you.

That lot must making servicing almost a pleasure - looks really well made kit too.

I never knew there was more than one bushing thickness though, I've just put new bearings and bushings into my ML7.5 - hope I've put the right ones in

bushings are not the same for 7/2 and 7/5. The rear triangle is different in size and width. The brass axle on left allows align the arm, bushing, monolink on both sides. The titanium axle just has to follow .. easy.
To remove bearings, Maverick (in the past) gave the Maverick tool box with the frame ... this one :

Wow!
I bought a Duc32 past week and now I'm in troubles about the Maverick Hub and my Tacx wheel truing stand.
Where had you found the" special 24mm extension to fit Maverick and CK hubs on my wheels truing stand"?
Thanks.

Use a rubber band to hold a pencil on the fork leg and use the fork as a truing stand.
The Maverick truing adapters fit the Park TS2 professional truing stand, the adapters cost $60 and are out of stock @ BTI, https://www.bti-usa.com/public/manufacturer/MK

I took a 2x2" board and notched out a spot the exact diameter of the bearings. Then I heated the link up a little with a torch. I then laid the link on it's side on top of the board and positioned the bearing directly over the the hole. A few good smacks and the bearing broke loose and wedged itself into the board. I then removed the bearing from the wood, flipped the link and repeated.

One thing I did do to the new bearings was to pry the seals off and pack them with more grease. This should help them last longer and keep debris & water out.

Yeah, I didn't go to hot with it. My first few attempts to knock the bearings out did not produce any results so I added a little heat. Not too much, didn't want to bake the color off. It's a little trick that has worked well over the years on my racing cars.

Maverick Monolink

ok... after reading all of these how to remove the old bearings out of the monolink. i just or still can't remove it.
* a socket & a hammer works fine* how's that work? how do u put a socket inside or outside? i have no gap in between the 2 bearings. the sleeve or barrel just snug in both inner bearings. when i spin either bearing the sleeve also spin with it. another word, i have nothing to knock with from either inside.
please... please help. i'm really frustrated with all this. thx so much! ss

Just push the inner sleeve to one side using a screwdriver or whatever thenvyou can get behind the bearing to push it out. I just used a screwdriver for the while job. Not elegant but you're not going to reuse those bearings anyway. Went and got a long bolt and nut with large washers to force the new bearings in straight.

Just push the inner sleeve to one side using a screwdriver or whatever thenvyou can get behind the bearing to push it out. I just used a screwdriver for the while job. Not elegant but you're not going to reuse those bearings anyway. Went and got a long bolt and nut with large washers to force the new bearings in straight.

thx a lot! i finally figured it out, rite after i posted this.
i used the socket extension to knock it one side with a hammer.
once i got one side out the other is a walk in the park.
thx very much for get back to me.

I've just stripped and rebuilt my ML75 rear damper (with Al from Garage Bikes, Morley, Leeds, UK). I made the 32 and 23mm vise blocks from an off-cut from a fence post. The timber deforms to grip the damper cylinders without scratching or creating pressure points. A bit of innertube provides enough grip.

Would any of you chaps happen to know what sized o-ring is needed for the top shock pivot bolt on a ML75 Frame. Was giving it a service and noticed that the o-ring that sits between the frame and shock mount clevis had broken.