As per putting springs between the brake pads...the rubber seals in the wheel cylinders relax after pressure is released and they pull the pucks back enough to allow the disk to freely rotate. Any goop or corrosion between the puck and the cylinder wall will cause binding and prevent this. Then the brakes to drag. Sometimes putting in new seals helps. It is important that they face the right direction. A brake cylinder technical salesman can help a lot with caliper selection. Some calipers are better at retracting the pucks than others. It is an annual task to drain the brake fluid on the race bike, and then to take the caliper apart and clean it and lube and adjust everything so there is good retraction and no dragging. A well cared for and adjusted conventional brake system seems to work OK.

Fordboy turned me on to McMaster-Carr. Especially for those of us in the Midwest, if it's in the catalog, they almost always have it in stock, and I've ordered items as late as 4:00 in the afternoon and had them delivered the next day to Milwaukee.

The return policy is no BS, and while they're not cheap, the service is second to none.

I first encountered McMaster-Carr in 1978. The engineering department said if you need anything get it from the big yellow book! If they don't have it - no one does!So I said,"Oh yeh! Do they have sling psychrometers?" They had three models! [Only two today!]I got to visit one of the old warehouses in the '80s and the wooden floors had deep grooves worn between the shelves. No automation - everyone knew where stuff was at like the old-time hardware store!

I still go there first and if they have it - order it! Like MM says their service is REAL!

I'm back at it after a bit of a break to help Burton with getting his streamliner into the record books. I learned soooooo much in the process of helping him.

With the chassis roughed in the first order of business was to get the canopy figured out. The bubble is from a small jet, Sub Sonex, built in Oshosh Wi. They were kind enough to let me take a lot of dimensions and sell me an un-trimmed bubble I could tweak for my own needs. After a few nerve racking cuts I had a general shape of what I wanted.

Used a pair of gas springs to aid with opening to get out. The just reach over center when the canopy is down so very little force is needed to hold it shut and it only needs a little bump to get it to open.