I can dissengage the freewheel, but the lever remain 4 or 5mm before the end of its travel.I don't understand the uses of this spring, what could happened if the lever goes to the end?On this photo it is the current situation with the freewhel dissenganged and the spring fitted.

There shouldn't be a spring there. I guess it was there to stop the lever rattling if the rubber grommet in the bulkhead has perished. The lever cannot go further forward as it is restriced by the travel of the plastic lever on the transmission. I note you are missing the rubber shroud on the clutch slave cylinder.

Today I'm very happy. I fitted the carb and after adjusting the idle and the float i could start the engine. For the first time I've got idle, no extra leaking, so after open a bit the minimum (it was too close)it started. Next future making some kms i will fine adjusting the carb as now in the garage is difficult.

What I notice is the big drop of rpm when I turn on the lights or even the internal ventilator. Probably the alternator is weak/small/old. The belt is ok.

It could be the reason but I don't have any instrument to messure that 900 rpm. In any case it's so nice reduce the idle and notice that it works.Maybe a dwell tester would be useful to adjust idle and firing point. I've seen cheap ones on ebay.

The engine continues to have a good idle when the car is flat. Going out the garage in a heavy rise the engine stalls. I can keep it on by pushing the pedal, but at idle after a while, little by little the idle reduce speed up to stall.

I can restart easily pressing twice the pedal, the carb doesn't flood, it seems the opposite, that for any reason the carb doesn't feed enough petrol.

Thinking about a low level on the float I've remove the cover of the carb and this is the previous situation with the float placed out of the cover.

I've correct the float to permit more petrol and this is the excesive level.

quote:Originally posted by WoodyYou need a ring spanner (1/2inch or 13mm IIRC) on the bolt at rear of slave cylinder. It also seems to be retaining the reverse light switch, Not easy to get to!

As in, the end at the right in your image - though there does indeed seem to be something else sharing the bolt. Unhook that spring for starters and gve yourself a bit of space to work in. The hose can stay connected by the way. Really it's easier than you think....promise!

Please use a 1/2" spanner and not a 13mm as that will ruin the head of the bolt. Check if your reverse lights still work after the operation. The spring shouldn't be there, it should be hooked onto a thin metal plate held in place by on of the bolts of the steering gear assy.