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Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Be gentle! The glass may crack if pried too much. Use a hairdryer to heat the edges and loosen the tape if the room temperatures are low.

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At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

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The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently "walk" it out of its socket.

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Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.

The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.

During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.

Remember guys: the base model that did not ship with SSD is completely missing the M.2 connection soldered on the board from the factory, and will not be able to mount one. The main HDD can still be swapped for one though.