Dine out: Roganic

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A two-year pop-up by the L’Enclume chef entertains some but irritates others with its intensive focus on ingredients

WHAT THE CRITICS SAY

Matthew Norman
The Telegraph, August 17
This narrow little joint, neutrally done out, is the creature of Simon Rogan,
of the Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cumbria. Factor in a devilishly
challenging anagram of “organic”, and you’ve cracked the case wide open.

I asked the sommelier about a riesling from Washington. He spoke for several
minutes ... [Next], the waiter introduced us to a canapé of cream cheese on
a thin wafer garnished with edible flowers. “Are you enjoying the nonsense?”
I asked my friend. “Not really,” he said. “I fear we’re in for half an hour
on how