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About dog1660

Thank you guys for your replies and ideas. I really like the idea of using the panty hose to screen the paint right from the bottle. For the longest time I have been just straining the paint at the cup. The wife keeps me in good supply of paint strainers...lol. The compressor I have been using is a tank style and runs up to 80lbs, air supply is never a problem. I did finally get mad enough and decided its time for an upgrade and purchased a Paasche Talon gravity feed gun. Wow what a difference, that is one hell of an airbrush. I plugged it into my current setup and it worked very nice. Absolutely a fine tool to use. Sometimes it pays, just to pay a little more. I should have done this years ago. Thanks again for all the input.

I have just recently run into a problem with my Paasche LV air brush having a cyclic sputtering problem. The paint passages are all clear and clean and I have even changed the nozzle, tip, and needle. All the paint passages are in good shape but it continues to shoot, choke, shoot, choke in a cycle. The more trigger you give it the faster it will cycle. I pulled a bunch of garbage out of it the first time it came apart and have gone through it completely about 10 times, tore it down to just the body and rebuilt it over and over but the problem continues. It seems like an internal air passage problem within the body of the gun. Any ideas ????

I have something simular to the two piece aluminum angle, if you lay a bead of high temp red RTV on the inside top edge and let it cure overnight, it will help hold the jigs in place. I have one made of wood also just for painting spinner baits with thin foam on the inside and it holds very well.

It seems that most of the latest jigs are being made with the brush guards added last or after paint. My question is are you pouring your jigs with the guard in place or installing them later? Paint first then guard or paint and tie in the skirt and do the guard very last. I think it would be a lot easier to tie without a guard in the way, I just wanted to see how most of you prefer to do this. Thanks for any input.

You may also want to try using talc. (baby powder) in the mold as well, I read a thread about fluxing and someone mentioned using talc. so I gave it a try and it made all the differance in the world. The product released from the mold better and the fill was more complete. Very in-expensive tip with great results.

You might also consider using a 2 part product called Quick Seel for the head of the A-rig, this works really well and is very strong. I have several rigs made with this and they are bullet proof, it really is just like steel and very easy to shape without the weight of lead.

I just wanted to find out what material have any of you used to make lead molds with. Aluminum is clearly number one material but if you dont have it what do you think the best alternative should be. I have been pouring using wood (clear maple) and that has worked ok so far. I wanted to try some bondo to see how that would work.
I made some umbrella rigs using some of the putty that gets rock hard like steel. That worked well also. Any input will be helpful. Thanks.
Moved from hard baits forum.

I just wanted to find out what material have any of you used to make lead molds with. Aluminum is clearly number one material but if you dont have it what do you think the best alternative should be. I have been pouring using wood (clear maple) and that has worked ok so far. I wanted to try some bondo to see how that would work.
I made some umbrella rigs using some of the putty that gets rock hard like steel. That worked well also. Any input will be helpful. Thanks.