You have found that a smaller 11mm piston gives more power than a larger 14mm piston. Simple effect of ratios same as gearing. Smaller front sprocket gives more initial grunt but less top speed. Its the same with fluid dynamics. The downside of the smaller master cylinder piston is more lever travel. I have the stock Big master cylinder paired with a DRZ 400 caliper and have a very firm lever with little travel but this suits me as it allows more control especially off road. It still stops fine on the road but I just have to pull harder

Would the front left calliper and bracket from a Kawasaki ER6n/f bolt straight on to a ‘91 SR43? Or will it need to be modified? I’m now using my bike as a daily driver and really need to sort the front brake!

Also, what’s the view on pads? I bought a pair of EBC HH sintered pads and I’m not sure whether or not to put them on, mainly because I’ve read that they only work well when up to temperature.

I`ve given up on EBC products as I`ve had some bad experiences with them. They used to be the best back in the 80`s but I think their quality control really isn`t very good any more.You are right about HH pads not having a lot of feel at low speed, particularly in cold wet weather when you really need it.I`ve experimented with my 43 using all sorts of combinations. I`ve found that a Brembo disc (about a third of the price of OE https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-Upgra ... SwImRaWNDA ) and genuine pads work best, though OE Tokico pads are far too expensive at £40 a set. SBS and Goldfren are good vfm. Dave#22 swears by using one HH pad and one organic pad for the best of both worlds.Stripping the caliper down and cleaning out the accrued shite behind the dust seal and making sure the caliper slides as it should is imperative.None of this is cheap, but it will give an acceptable front brake. How much is your life worth?

I rebuilt the caliper with new seals and gave the EBC HH pads a try. They're not bad, slightly better than the unbranded pads that were in there before, but no major difference overall.

Next step is to tray a new master cylinder and a braided line. For some reason I have fluid seeping out of the top of the stock master cylinder after bleeding. I've reseated it numerous time and the rubber looks fine but it keeps leaking. Since a new m/c is recommended, I might as well have a go at replacing it.

Mr.Z wrote:From 1996 there's a new front brake, and that one brakes a lot better and fits on the older models [ you will need the adapter from the new brake also]. On the new brake is the name "Tokico" and its also mounted on the bikes on this list. [only a left one will fit! ]

Having read this post from a while back, I am considering fitting a left SV650 calliper I've got in the workshop to my dr750, to see if this is an improvement on the older kit - it's in decent condition and I'm struggling with break squeal with my standard calliper, so before forking out for new pads il try an upgrade!

Question is; does anyone have a mounting bracket spare which they would be willing to sell me!? Alternatively does anyone have a drawing of it and I can convert it to a digital DXF. And get one laser cut (along with extras if anyone else wants one!)