Boulder Canyon eagles fledged two birds again this year! We removed signs and changed our web site yesterday.

All crags are now open to climbing.

Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea....

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Start on the ground a few meters Right of Magic Wand and climb up 3-4 meters to a thin crack (good small nuts), then up a face past small cam placements, then bigger ones. Aim for just left of a solitary small dead tree. After passing this, and just below the top, step left and follow a right-leaning crack with some solid flakes in it to come eye-to-eye level with the anchors on 'Magic Wand' which are just to your left. The last bit is the crux and protects well.

This is the best trad line at the crag and one of the better lines over all.

Location

This route ascends the face just right of 'Magic Wand' on natural features and protection. The gear is better than it would appear from the ground and does not require runouts or much craftiness.

Lead this pitch today. Thought middle section below dead tree was runout but could be I just didn't look enough for pro. Still, a fun moderate line. Very convenient trad line with the top anchors from Magic Wand. Good gear and cool route.