Napoleon robbed it, Calvinists nearly burned it, the Nazis were desperate to own it, and it has been missing for 80 years – but there are new leads all the time. Noah Charney on the theft of the Ghent Altarpiece, the world's most notorious art heist

Ghent's slightly bonkers Six-Days race meeting kicks off next week. But it's not just about the cycling – many people are here to party. Andy Pietrasik joins them, and also explores this cool but underrated city