As cardinals preen themselves for their big moment at next month’s conclave, an equally intense rivalry is playing out behind the scenes. For some Italians, just as important as who becomes Pope is who dresses him.

Two distinguished ecclesiastic outfitters are vying to make the ivory-white tunics that the new head of the Roman Catholic Church will wear as he preaches to his flock around the world.

The historic tailor’s shop Gammarelli, near the Pantheon, which has dressed the Roman curia since 1798, is up against the upstart Euroclero, picked by Benedict himself.