Marin soccer coaches soaking in World Cup experience in Brazil

While fans all around Marin were glued to televisions in homes, bars and restaurants around the county watching the United States men's national team battle it out with Portugal in the World Cup on Sunday, a pair of local soccer coaches were cheering the team from Brazil while on vacations that would qualify as any soccer fan's dream.

San Domenico School coach Mark Mackbee, a Mill Valley resident, was in the stadium in Manaus watching the U.S. ultimately battle to a tie with Portugal, picking up an all-important point in the process. Central Marin club coach Tighe O'Sullivan, who grew up in San Rafael, was watching on television in Campinas — a city about 90 miles away from Sao Paulo — on a day off between attending games between Argentina and Iran on Saturday and Chile and the Netherlands on Monday.

"It was pretty unreal," Mackbee said. "There was a huge American contingent that all met about two kilometers away (from the stadium) in a rather large square. There was a bar/restaurant that had all this music playing, all the American songs like 'Born in the U.S.A' ... Everything was just getting us fired up.

"Everyone was in their outfits, their red, white and blue, their face paint. It was endless American patriotism. We walked to the stadium, all singing songs and doing the 'I believe that we will win' chant. ... It was just an amazing energy level. Everyone understood the importance of the game, with a win we were (advancing)."

A wild game unfolded before the U.S. and Portuguese fans — plus the many Brazilians in attendance — with the U.S. ultimately being denied automatic qualification on a dramatic last-minute goal by Portugal.

"Once we were in the stadium, the game was a roller coaster of a ride," Mackbee said. "It went from highs to lows so quickly. Unfortunately, it's not the first time the U.S. has given up late goals. To be that close, to feel like you've won the game and are going through (to the round of 16), to have that snatched away ... people weren't totally depressed. With a fair result against Germany — with a tie — everyone knew we still had a good shot of getting through."

A win or draw against Germany would be enough to see the U.S. through. The team could even advance with a loss under the right circumstances.

Chasing games

O'Sullivan, who has been traveling with fellow Central Marin coach Rob Neville, hasn't made it to a U.S. game yet, but he has seen a pair of dramatic games decided on late goals by two of the world's top players — Uruguay's Luis Suarez and Argentina's Lionel Messi, respectively.

"We were at the Argentina-Iran game and that was one of the best atmospheres I've ever been at in four World Cups," O'Sullivan said. "It was amazing because the Argentines were really stressed. The Iranians were actually in larger numbers than I expected and the Argentines were singing and chanting throughout the match."

Iran had somewhat shockingly battled Argentina to a scoreless draw through 90 minutes before Messi delivered the game winner.

"When Messi scored at the end of the game it was just a freak show — everyone lost it," O'Sullivan said. "The Messi goal was like a massive tension being released like an explosion."

Not fan friendly

While the action on the field has been consistently spectacular throughout the tournament, some of the problems off the field have been hard to ignore. Unfinished stadiums, price gouging and difficult travel conditions are just some of the issues that plagued the event.

"The Sao Paulo stadium is the worst stadium I've ever been in for any major sporting event ever," O'Sullivan said. "The way to get in was like hurdling cattle, there was only one way in from the metro. The concessions — we waited in line for 25 minutes at the one concession area in our part of the stadium. They had no hot food left — no burgers, no dogs.

"There was one bathroom (in that part of the stadium) so the line for the bathroom was maybe 80 people deep. When the second half started, literally 40 percent of the stadium wasn't in their seats because there were still in line for the bathroom or concessions."

Traveling to multiple games has proven difficult as well, with Manaus in particular being tough to get to, plus the high cost of airplane and bus fares.

"Transportation has been tough," O'Sullivan said. "We tried to go to the Russia-Belgium game from Belo but the only bus that would have gotten us there would have been at 3 a.m. in Rio which just isn't safe. We haven't been able to rent a car anywhere, it's been difficult."

Passion for the game

Soccer has long been loved above all else around the globe and the enthusiasm that Americans have for their national soccer team seems to be at an all-time high — the game against Portugal was the most-watched soccer game in U.S. history with around 18.2 million viewers.

As the team has improved, Americans have become more invested in the team and the evidence extends all the way to Brazil where U.S. fans have turned out in record numbers.

"There's a young generation who grew up playing the game and whose moms were soccer moms," Mackbee said. "Now they are out of college and are able to travel the world. It's what they know and love. (The support for the team at the World Cup) is far more than what I've seen it in previous years."

Qualification for the knockout stage is not yet secure — a loss to Germany and a win by either Portugal or Ghana could send the Americans home early. Mackbee will be in Recife on Thursday for the all-important final group game. After chasing various first-round games, the coaches all plan to meet up in Belo at some point and travel together for some of the games in the knockout stages.

"This is crossing things off the bucket list for me," Mackbee said. "You know you're living when you're having these experiences. ... I'll talk to people and relive it a thousand times back at home."