My 1969 FJ40 may have thrown at least one rod. It has been a good motor for the last 16 years, but may be in need of a replacement. I guess I am interested in any advice as to whether to rebuild, replace rods, or just go with another engine. I would like to stay with the same motor f145, or go with f155.

From what I understand, 1F engine parts are hard to come by for a rebuild. I would suggest searching craigslist, IH8MUD, etc. to find a good running 1F as a replacement. Or consider a 2F swap. 2Fs from FJ60s are pretty plentiful right now.

I had absolutely no problems whatsoever in getting parts to rebuild my F155 for my 1971 last year. Trying to remember the name - Mile High? They were in Wheat Ridge off of I-70, they used to be Lakewood Auto Machine? Anyway they machined my block, crank and head and sold me a complete kit for my old school F engine, no problems.

I had absolutely no problems whatsoever in getting parts to rebuild my F155 for my 1971 last year. Trying to remember the name - Mile High? They were in Wheat Ridge off of I-70, they used to be Lakewood Auto Machine? Anyway they machined my block, crank and head and sold me a complete kit for my old school F engine, no problems.

Do you remember what they charged by chance for both the parts and machine work?

It sounds like you on your way to a solution. Figured I mention it any way. Doug at Doug's Ballancing in denver is an old timer that knows a lot about this old iron. He did all my machine work fitted my cam bearings and sourced my valve springs guides and seats. He doesn't crank grind in house, but has a local source.

Do you remember what they charged by chance for both the parts and machine work?

I believe the complete kit was around a grand, included pistons, rings, cam, lifters I forget what else. Obviously bearings, gaskets and seal kit too.

The machine work was to both the block and head, they punched my cylinders a half mm, they had to sleeve one or two of them, that added around $400 IIRC. They ground the cam, and even machined the inside of the rods where the rod bearings go so they were more round.

The head work was fairly extensive, besides decking it to within about 0.030" of the limit they put in Chebbie valves and cut new seats to fit them.

The machine work was about $1,600 IIRC, but like I said, about $400 of that was sleeving a couple cylinders.

They went ahead and installed the new cam bearings for me since that takes an SST most of us don't have, and they were nice enough to R&R all the freeze plugs for me.

Their hot tanking removes all carbon and grease but NOT rust. I was somewhat disappointed at all the surface rust on the exterior cast iron surfaces but they basically said not to worry about that.