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Power supply is easier to troubleshoot my local pc shop has used ones for $5 or if you have one laying around make sure you have one with the proper mobo connector 24pin will sometimes fit 20 pin as long as there are no transistors to close to plug just turn pc off unplug all drives and mobo plug in good supply and turn on if it works thats the problem if not probably mobo

200 watt max. 19v DC power brick with a 4 pin plug, with two positive and two ground pins. The PSU is unique to the E-bot. I have not been able to find an exact match anywhere. Foxconn no longer sells the PSUs and will not help with tech support in any way. The PSU was originally produced by Fortron Source Power (FSP). When mine went bad, I had to buy a similar looking unit (but with only a 150 watt max rating), then I had to rewire the output cord, because the 4 pin plug had the positives and negatives switched around.

If you need a new power brick for the Ebot, I seriously hope you have the old original unit still. If you do, you can then simply buy any 19V laptop power brick that has acceptable power output (at least 120 watt) and then replace the power output cord with the original one from the Ebot's power supply (some soldering required). It's really the only way to replace the unit.

Only guess I have is unplug the 4 pin connector from the MB if you used it, I had that problem with an Abit nf7-s, no joy until I found out the extra 4 from a 24 pin is NOT what hooks to the 12V boost connector on the MB when you only have a 20 pin main hook-up.Sorry if this doesn't help.

Hi,
I checked a known good spare motherboard with a VOM (continuity tester): pin 4 of the KB PS2 port, pin 1 of the rear USB, pin 1 & 2 of the front panel USB onboard connector, pin 3 of the infrared, pin 4 of the speaker connector, pins 4, 6,21 & 22 of the ATX 24-pin Power Connector are all interconnected (+5VDC). If that is an indication of the general +5 supply layout, you can probably hard wire a new +5 supply line to where the +5 is gone from where it is still available. Of course without a schematic, I might be off.
Determining the actual component position of the surface mounted fuse (or fusible link) might not be that easy since manufacturer do not publish such information loosely. A shotgun approach (test all) would be time consuming but of course challenging.
Your best bet would probably be as mentioned earlier, hardwire and install in series with the new +5 line a low amp (500ma or lower) smfuse. This article describes the power requirement of USB ports > http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml.
Hope this be of some help to you. Pls post again how things turn up. Good luck and kind regards.