Its in great condition; everything works smoothly except the top viewfinder doesn't adjust. Its a comfortable camera.

However, in my effort to understand the camera and especially the back, I unscrewed four screws from the back and now the rear bellows has come off.

How do I reattach the bellows? I have the following loose parts:
4 screws and washers;
2 black plates with 2 screw holes in each, the plates measuring 10.5+cm x 1.5+cm x 1-2mm thickness;
1 plate curved on the width, rounded ends, black on one side, chrome on the other, 5cm x 1cm;
for the back, 2 sliding chrome plates, also 10.5+cm but the width varies according to the design, 2 elongated screw holes; and
also for the back, 2 tension black plates, 9 cm long, with 2 screw holes

I think I can reattach the back, but that would leave the rear bellows unattached to the body.

I've searched Graflex.org to no avail, and have ordered a service manual but it hasn't come yet.

So, four hours after I got the Century Graphic, I rendered it unusable!

How do I reattach the bellows? Thanks for any help._________________Dan

IOW, it looks as though you will be working both inside and outside the case simultaneously, holding everything in position, while using a screwdriver: a task which I do not envy you. Thanks for warning me never to try this on mine!

The rear of the bellows is held in place by tucking the edge of last pleat under the flat black steel plates, top and bottom. That plate is the only thing that goes inside the body; all the rest of the stuff you removed goes on the outside.

I believe the Graflex manual instructions suggests you assemble the Graflok slide parts onto the screws, insert the screws into the holes, and then start the screws into the plate. Just a couple of threads worth, so the plate still slops around and you have enough clearance to tuck the edge of the pleat under the plate. Then tighten the screws and you're home.

One other thing in assembling the slide locks. It is important that one of the washers, the thinnest one I believe, is installed behind the chrome slide. Failure to do this results in the slide not sliding, or at best sliding only with great difficulty.

Despite my best efforts, I've lost one of the washers. Does anyone have a washer they can spare?

[quote]One other thing in assembling the slide locks. It is important that one of the washers, the thinnest one I believe, is installed behind the chrome slide. Failure to do this results in the slide not sliding, or at best sliding only with great difficulty.[/quote]

Coloron, aren't all four washers installed behind the chrome slide, i.e. between the chrome slide and the body???_________________Dan

Using a different format Graphic body that has the same hardware configuration, the assembly order is:
back frame;
washer, larger ID, thinnest;
spring;
washer, smaller ID, thicker;
lock-slide.
Perhaps someone with a copy of the service manual will post the dimensions of the washers. Common hardware sizes can be dressed down with a flat mil smooth file to proper thickness and drilled to proper ID.
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I have a wet/dry vac that I vacuum the floor around the work area with then sift through collected material as a last resort. It has failed two times in 15 years to produce the disappearing part._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

This is the assembly drawing from the '61 Century Graphic Service Instructions and Parts Catalog.
It shows only one washer located between the camera body and the slide.
After examining my camera I see that the upper slide (the other is missing) has a washer located per the dwg., with no other washers
In terms of screw and washer sizes, I was able to obtain two screws and washers that would thread into the bellows retaining plate and are used to plug the two holes left by the missing lower Graflok assembly. They are #3 x 3/4" screws obtained at an Ace Hardware store, the smallest screw size available in the store.

The diagram more closely matches the Pacemaker Graflok which does not show a washer between the slide lock and body._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Wait a minute, 45PSS. Henry, Coloran and the drawing specified the lockslide as closer to the body than the black spring. They have a washer between the body and the lockslide. You specified a different order than they did - you have the spring closest to the body and the lockslide next. You specified 2 washers, one between the body and the spring and one between the spring and the lockslide.

I'm inclined to believe them, not you, because the drawing is likely to be accurate, and because my camera came with 4 washers, not 8. Also, you say, "The diagram more closely matches the Pacemaker Graflok which does not show a washer between the slide lock and body." That doesn't make sense because this drawing does show "a washer between the slide lock and body."

The Pacemaker and Century use a Leaf spring that goes on top of the slide lock. The Pacemaker diagram does not show a washer. The washer is probably used on the Century to spread pressure reducing possibly of cracking of the mahognite where the magnesium back frame of the Pacemaker will take the tension.
The Super, which I refereed to earlier, uses two washers per screw and a compression spring between them all under the lock slide, disregard that post.

Confusion ended?_________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I've already put the bottom screws, plate, lockslide and spring together. It was very easy once I had it all figured out. I intend to try to find another washer and then put the top stuff together. Then I'll attach the bellows. The only thing that might delay it is I want to take pictures._________________Dan

I think the washer between the body and the slide is essentially a bearing surface. If the washer is moved somewhere else, or left out altogether, the slide doesn't slide unless you have the screws very loose, loose enough to risk pulling the bellows pleat out from under the retaining plate.
If you are needing to source a new washer(s), consider that it probably needs to be very close to the same thickness as the originals. Another possible complication is that the washers determine how far out from the body the slide lock is spaced. So if a washer or washers are much different than original dimensions the slide may not engage the groove on whatever accessory is being installed.

Damn! I got the two sets of plates and the rear bellows on. It's such a nice pretty looking camera. However, the rear rails have gone out of kilter, blocking the front standard from being pulled back. Also, the bar which links the rangefinder to the front standard has come loose. It is shaped like a flat bar with two 90 degree turns at the bottom end.

How is the Kalart rangefinder linked to the front standard; how are the rear rails correctly repositioned?

Sounds like the RF arm is in the yoke path. The RF arm will have some side play so it is no big deal.

Unlock the front standard. Run the yoke out as far as it will go with the focus knob. Look at the right rear of the yoke, there will be something attached to the yoke that the RF arm contacts when the yoke is returned to the body. Now check the RF arm, it should be on the outside of the yoke body guide and fully forward to its travel limit. If it looks bent left or right reform it so that it aligns with the yoke contact. Run the yoke fully inward verifying the RF arm is contacting the yoke contact._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

[quote="45PSS"]Sounds like the RF arm is in the yoke path. The RF arm will have some side play so it is no big deal.

Unlock the front standard. Run the yoke out as far as it will go with the focus knob. Look at the right rear of the yoke, there will be something attached to the yoke that the RF arm contacts when the yoke is returned to the body. Now check the RF arm, it should be on the outside of the yoke body guide and fully forward to its travel limit. If it looks bent left or right reform it so that it aligns with the yoke contact. Run the yoke fully inward verifying the RF arm is contacting the yoke contact.[/quote]

What yoke? Am I missing a part? All I have is the arm, which is a flat bar having a U-shape at the bottom end, and the attachment, which looks like a screwhead.

Is the yoke something like a Y for contact with the attachment? Something like >-------- ? That's what I have on a Busch Pressman C. The Century Graphic has nothing like that._________________Dan