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As much as I enjoy being in Beaune, it is a small city
that can feel claustrophobic at times, so it is nice to get out a little every
now and then. Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau is located in Hostellerie de Levernois,
just a few kilometers outside of Beaune. The Hostellerie is a gorgeous Relais
& Chateau property with a luxury hotel, an elegant restaurant, a golf
course and a host of other amenities. I always enjoy the simplicity of the
Bistrot because the food, wine and service are top notch, while the ambiance is
informal, a great combination in my book.

The dinner menu is offered in two versions;
appetizer/main/cheese or dessert for 34 euros, or appetizer/main/cheese/dessert
for 38 euros, both exceedingly reasonable. There are usually three choices for
each course. Jambon persillé,
the traditional Burgundian ham terrine, is presented in an updated, refined
interpretation. It is absolutely delicious. The mixed grill consists of morsels
of duck, chicken and lamb, all perfectly cooked. There is nothing fancy here,
but after a week of eating in Burgundy, simple is just fine. Our cheeses are
outrageously delicious. I am reminded why I love being in France so much. Cherries
are one of my favorite summer foods, and the clafoutis, another traditional,
comfort food, is elevated at the Bistro. The scoop of pistachio on top is the
perfect end to this fabulous dinner.

The Bistrot’s wine list is extensive. Chablis is one of
the sweet spots, especially for fairly priced wines with a little bottle age,
something that is increasingly hard to find. There are plenty of choices for
reds too, but finding the best values does require a bit of time and effort, as
they are sprinkled among the region’s more coveted bottles. Still, the list
does contain a number of wines that are hard to find in the US.

I can’t pass up on Raveneau’s 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot. A spectacular magnum of
the 2001 Les Clos a few weeks ago was a great prelude to a recent visit to the
domaine, a tasting that left me with an intense desire for a bottle with a
little age. This is it. What a gorgeous wine. Still quite youthful, the 2008
Blanchot takes several hours in the decanter to start opening up, but even then
only reveals a fraction of its ultimate potential. Still, there is plenty to
enjoy in the creamy, expansive flavors and enveloping texture. The Blanchot is
especially delicious at the end of the dinner, with our cheese course. Readers
holing the 2008 will want to cellar it for at least a few years, as the flavors
aren’t fully open yet.

The 2005 Volnay
1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu from
Comtes Lafon is superb. Having recently tasted the 2009, 2010 and 2011, I
am curious to see where the 2005 is. Still a big, broad-shouldered wine, the
2005 is beautiful, open and expressive on this night. The wine’s breadth and
pure power are both impressive. At the same time, slightly angular contours and
drying tannins, especially on the finish, are impossible to escape. The 2005
remains a striking Santenots, but it is also a bit burly. I don’t see the 2005
ever becoming one of the more polished vintages, but would also like to taste
it in another 5 years to see if it has acquired a measure of elegance that
today is elusive.

Readers spending time in Beaune should make a point of
stopping by the Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau. It is without question one of the
best values for top-notch eating and drinking in Burgundy.