Tsuen Wan

Tea, temples and tribes

“Tsuen Wan is an amazing area, where old and new can be found here side-by-side,” said restaurateur Alice Leung.

At the end of its eponymous MTR line, you would be mistaken for thinking Tsuen Wan is simply a remote rural backwater. For here exist many of Hong Kong’s greatest ancient monuments, nestled beside some of its newest residential estates and shopping centers. In Tsuen Wan, you’ll discover old Hong Kong at its most fascinating—as you walk its ancient trails, delve into historic temples and sup on traditional tea, you’ll realize that you don’t have to travel far from the modern city to experience traditional Hong Kong.

The most famous of these is Choi Lung Restaurant, which has been running for over 40 years. Perched mid-way up the mountain, this two-story venue is famed for using fresh spring water to brew its tea. Second generation owner Alice Leung explains, “My husband’s family members were the indigenous inhabitants of Chuen Lung Tsuen and I have been helping this family run the restaurant for over 20 years.” Explaining the concept behind the family’s success, Ms. Leung added: “We provide different types of dim sum, like quail’s egg shao mai, traditional black sesame rolls and tea that is brewed with fresh natural mountain water. However, most of our guests are not only local villagers, but also visitors from around the world, city-dwellers and weekend hikers.”

Another popular stop on the visitor’s route is Luk Kam Kee (Shanghai), a 50-year old establishment that’s referred to by locals as “King of the Melon Seeds”. Make a detour here to pick up these traditional Chinese snacks: you’ll find more than ten types of seeds including the signature five-spiced black melon seed and the A-grade red melon seeds.

One of the best places to learn more about the history of the ancient settlements is the Sam Tung Uk Museum, a 200-year-old Hakka walled village that was declared a historical monument in 1981. It was built by the Chan clan from Guangdong in 1786, who settled along the seashore in Tsuen Wan with initially just three rows of houses. His ancestors later developed annexes and an ancestral hall, which have been restored to health today.

Another remnant of the district’s agricultural past is the Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail, an old trading route between Tsuen Wan and Yuen Long, a district on the other side of the mountains that grew out of an equally historic village. Along the 12.5km-long historic trail through Tai Lam Country Park, take a minute to reflect on the juxtaposition of Hong Kong’s modernity as you gaze down over the world-famous Tsing Ma Bridge: spanning the Ma Wan Channel, this is the world’s longest road-and-rail suspension bridge.

For a more recent reflection of the district’s culture, head to the Western Monastery, a relatively new Buddhist temple at the foot of Tai Mo Shan. Established by the Hong Kong Buddhi Siksa Society in 1970, the temple was expanded in the late 1990s and now covers an area of 200,000 square meters. It’s worthwhile devoting a whole afternoon to exploring its nine pseudo-Chinese palatial architectures. There’s also an exhibition area about Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, displaying scriptures, her different forms in statues, and more.

“Tsuen Wan is an amazing area, where old and new can be found here side-by-side” added Ms. Leung, reflecting on the district’s dichotomy. “Over these past 20 years, with the development of the city, Tsuen Wan is now the major transportation hub between the New Territories, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, but it’s also become a popular tourist area.”

MTR Tsuen Wan Station Exit E. Follow the signs and walk for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

Pick up traditional snacks

Luk Kam Kee (Shanghai)

Don’t forget to tick Luk Kam Kee (Shanghai) off your list. This 50-year old establishment is referred to by locals as “King of the Melon Seeds” and you'll often find queues round the block here before a festival. Try its signature Chinese snack—the melon seeds—especially the five-spiced black melon and the A-grade red melon seeds. You'll also find sweet and salty prunes, nuts, dried ginger, lemon and mango.

MTR Tsuen Wan Station, Exit A1. Follow the footpath onto Castle Peak Road, turn left and walk for 2 minutes. Cross Tai Ho Road, under the bridge, and the shop is on the right.

Afternoon

Seek out tranquility

Western Monastery

Spend an afternoon exploring Western Monastery, a relatively new Buddhist temple in Tsuen Wan. Established by the Hong Kong Bodhi Siksa Society in 1970, the temple was expanded in the late 1990s and now covers an area of 200,000 square meters. It consists of nine pseudo-Chinese palatial architectures. There is also an exhibition area about Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, displaying scriptures, her different forms in statues, and more.

Make Choi Lung Restaurant your first stop of the day and catch the sun as its rays rise over Tai Mo Shan mountain. Running for over 40 years, this establishment is famous for using the fresh spring water for brewing tea. Don’t miss the traditional dim sum: quail's egg shao mai and black sesame rolls. It's self-service so grab your food and choose between the vibrant ground floor, popular with mahjong players, or the scenic first floor.

Address:

2 Chuen Lung Tsuen, Route Twisk, Tsuen Wan, New Territories

Tel:

+852 2415 5041

How to Get There:

MTR Tsuen Wan Station, Exit A. Turn left on Tai Ho Road North and take minibus 51 from Tsuen Wan Station stop, alighting at Chuen Lung. It’s about a 30-minute journey. Cross the road and the restaurant is on the corner.

Sample village life

Chuen Lung Tsuen

One of Tsuen Wan's oldest villages is Chuen Lung Tsuen (“Dragon Stream Village”), in the foothills of Hong Kong's highest peak, Tai Mo Shan. After you've sampled its renowned tea house, spend some time wandering through its crooked lanes, past the old fruit trees and vegetable fields, which are still visible in this old community thanks to the clear mountain stream.

Address:

Route Twisk, Tsuen Wan, New Territories

How to Get There:

MTR Tsuen Wan Station, Exit A. Turn left on Tai Ho Road North and take minibus 51 from Tsuen Wan Station stop, alighting at Chuen Lung. It’s about a 30-minute journey.

Afternoon

Strap on your hiking boots

Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail

If you are feeling adventurous, head out on the Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail, an old trading route between Tsuen Wan and neighboring settlement Yuen Long and a remnant of the district's agricultural past. The 12.5km-long forested trail through Tai Lam Country Park starts at Ha Fa Shan and wanders up and down to Tai Tong. Along the way, you'll gaze down over the world-famous Tsing Ma Bridge.

This guide was produced by HK Magazine Media Group from 2014-2015.

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