Breakfast like a king as Fortnum & Mason publishes recipe for Edward VIII's kippers

Anyone who wishes to breakfast like a king, as the saying goes, may be in luck. They can now, at the very least, breakfast like a former king in exile.

Fortnum and Mason are to release their top secret recipes for the first time in more than 300 years, including instructions to make the smoked kipper breakfast shipped to Edward VIII as he waited to marry Wallis Simpson.

According to archivists, the meal was flown down every morning from Fortnum and Mason in London to the French chateau where the abdicated king waited for his bride-to-be.

He is said to have enjoyed it so much he would do anything to “avoid that gloomy continental breakfast” and enjoy Craster kippers freshly smoked – relatively – from Northumberland.

Traditional Craster Kippers being cured in a smoke house.

The recipe is one of dozens to be released by the store for the first time in its history, the product of years of research delving into their own archives.

While many of the recipes are as original as historians could muster, others have been developed by chef Tom Parker Bowles.

And even the kipper recipe will make one key concession to the modern age: swapping lashings of butter to fry them in for “a little olive oil”.

Among the dishes includes picnic fare enjoyed by Charles Dickens, a steak tartare served to Terence Stamp’s table, and recipes for scotch eggs: invented by Fortum itself.

It will also include their most-requested dishes from Welsh Rarebit and scones, to Knickerbocker Glories and the traditional Marmalade Tea Bread.

Tom Parker Bowles, the chef, said he had wanted to get involved to show the store was a “national icon” and “British institution” which had “fed the appetites of kings and queens, maharajahs and tsars, emperors, dukes and divas alike”.

Tom Parker Bowles, the chef

Among the chapters in one on scotch eggs, said to have been invented in the Piccadilly shop after customers in the 18th century developed the habit of popping in en route to the country by coach and demanding a portable snack.

Dr Andrea Tanner, Fortnum and Mason archivist, said the idea had been inspired by the current chief executive, who “couldn’t understand why we hadn’t done a cookery book before”.

“We have never actually exposed out recipes to the public before,” she said. “But people kept asking us for recipes for things like scones and the ultimate scotch eggs.

“So we delved into the archive to see the sorts of things we cooked in the past.

“We then talked about famous customers and giving everyone the Fortnums experience. It was huge fun.”

Charles Dickens: Fortnum & Mason fan

She added: “People might be surprised to learn we supplied every British Everest expedition.

“Or the Charles Dickens used to very sweetly almost advertise us in his journalism before he loved our hampers so much.

Dr Tanner added she had had some initial misgivings about giving away their secret recipes to all and sundry, but had concluded it would be a “travesty” not to be generous enough to share their greatest hits.

Writing of the royal kippers, Parker Bowles states: “After Edward VIII had abdicated and was waiting, in exile, to marry Mrs Simpson at Chateau de Conde, he still craved a taste of home.

“So he had Fortnum’s send down its Craster kippers (from Northumberland, with a strong oak smoke) every morning by plane.

“Anything to avoid that gloomy continental breakfast.”

Fortnum & Mason: The Cookbook by Tom Parker Bowles is published by 4th Estate, costs £30, and is out now.