hahahaha.. ya.. i spent the $60 for 3 boards.. the first one i botched and got halfway working.. didn't want to trouble shoot it much more.. the 2nd one works great.. gonna modify it a bit and test for buildin gthe 3rd one..

that's realy great. wished i had the same luck with the super controller which i triple checked! . hooked the prototype up and NOTHING worked. i then discovered that the transistors were rotated by 180deg. turned them and still nothing works so i will have a jolly good time of troubleshooting next week..._________________
cheers,
matthias
____________
fonitronik at
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Just a suggestion, but you could use the folks on this forum to help check the layout. If 2 heads are better than one and the more the merrier, etc.....
Having stated this, I won't be able to assist as I head out on vacation for a week in the woods with 30+ Boy Scouts! But if you're still out of luck in a week, let me know. I've laid out many pcb's over the years and am willing to assist. Sometimes the mistakes are obvious to someone who hasn't spend hours staring at it already. Just a thought...

I REALLY APPRECIATE THESN-VOICE BOARDS.
HOWEVER I found the layout to be confusing as the Resistor and Cap numbers followed no discernable pattern making parts placement time consuming.

Thanks. As for the layout, I kept the same references for the resistors and capacitors as Thomas Henry intended. This way if anyone had parts for the kit and wanted a PCB for it, they could use the parts they owned. I figured it would be less confusing. Sorry .......

Quote:

Also, what is the increase in cost to have the boards tinned? I had to use a flux pen on every hole in order to get good joints on both sides.

Right now, I am not able to get the board tinned so you will need to use an RMA flux to get good topside flow for my boards. Make sure the iron is clean and set it to about 750 degrees F. You probably know this of course. Put a drop of flux and preheat the pad and you should be good to go! You will have to remove the flux when you are done using a flux removal solvent or just alcohol.

Quote:

Again, I REALLY APPRECIATE THE BOARDS, well worth the money spent.

Thanks for your feedback. I will find out if I can get future boards tinned to make the soldering easier for everyone. That is a very good idea and one I will see about for sure. Again, thanks so much.

Since things didn't work out this summer for getting six new projects out the door, I decided to catch up on my backlog of old things. Among them was my own hard copy of the UD-1. (My previous version had lived only on a breadboard).

Your referring to the BLEND and DECAY potentiometers. You should be able to do this without any problems. In fact, for the decay, that's the value I used (1M) for my module since I liked the ability to have longer decay times. The blend should not be adversely affected either going to a 1M.

You may want to stick with LINEAR (B Type) potentiometers though as I did not see mention of response

BTW, have you seen the Quad Bass++ circuit boards? Four Bass /Tom voices on a single circuit board.

Thank you. That's good to know, since I already have a bunch of 1M pots on hand.

Another question: I have a schematic for mods to the UD-1, including adding a volume decay pot, peak limit resistor and lower pitch cap. I cannot find the source for that. Can anyone point me to it? I'm guessing there's some notes that go with it, which I would like to review.

including adding a volume decay pot, peak limit resistor and lower pitch cap. I cannot find the source for that. Can anyone point me to it? I'm guessing there's some notes that go with it, which I would like to review.

Are there any values or other specifications associated with your present notes? I could help more with that information.

Finally got around to assembling one of my UD-1s and it works a treat but when the decay and the sweep are turned up, the pitch is a little high for my liking. If I was to disconnect the ground side of R1 and connect it to -15V instead, would this have any adverse consequences? I'd like the Initial pot to be able to counteract the higher pitch caused by the above mentioned settings.

Finally got around to assembling one of my UD-1s and it works a treat but when the decay and the sweep are turned up, the pitch is a little high for my liking. If I was to disconnect the ground side of R1 and connect it to -15V instead, would this have any adverse consequences? I'd like the Initial pot to be able to counteract the higher pitch caused by the above mentioned settings.

maybe i'll approach this a different way.. attached is a sample that i *think* sounds incorrect.. This is a triangle wave going thru.. The tail has a sort of metallic sound, almost like the square is bleeding.. The waves from the osc look fine, but i feel like this shouldn't have that high pitched staticy sort of tail.. IT seems to be coming in at either the VCA or the output stage, but i don't really have a meter.. Looking for any advice here.. THANKS!

So i finally got round to finishing my first UD-1
pitch seemed way too high for a tom sound
up around 5Khz for its lowest initial setting- weird
checked everything C8 value, initial voltage,
voltages to the LM566 all seemed fine
even swapped the LM566
ended up trying a few different values in parallel with C8
which lowered the pitch ok
now the original value of C8 is .022uf according to the BOM and schematic
I ended up with 1uf to get down to a reasonable floor tom sound
and not a bad high rack tom sound with the initial pot all the way clockwise
I certainly dont get as low a freq as Bblazes sample
It all seems to be working fine but really that is a massive difference in cap values to get it to there.
any idea's anyone ?
I have another 3 yet to complete , just need to finish panel wiring
so I guess we shall see if they work out similar._________________In an infinite universe one might very well
ask where the hell am I
oh yeah thats right the land of OZ
as good an answer as any

one of the first things i checked was the resistor values off pin 6
I even lifted one side and metered them directly.
I have a few tubes of LM566 i must go through and check them all as well
some are obviously pulls , some look possibly fake a few look NOS
i shall see if this highlights some variance
the one i have going is working nice with the odd C8 value , i will wire up a second and compare_________________In an infinite universe one might very well
ask where the hell am I
oh yeah thats right the land of OZ
as good an answer as any

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