Hey benny_blanco. Great suggestions and that's basically what I'll be doing to it. The only other thing is new rims but I can always switch back to the original ones if I'm feeling more "nostalgic" (pun intended).

Not sure if these are good enough but check them out and let me know. Unfortunately I'll be away from home for the next 10 days so I hope these work for you. Good luck with the A/C. BTW, I noticed that I'm missing the battery tie down. Anyone know where I can get this?

I know, crazy right? I think the fact that only 400 of these special edition 50th Anniversary Editions were ever made makes the badges worth their weight in gold. Hope the previous owner can find it and pass it on to me.

BTW, my horn isn't working currently. Does anyone know if this is a common problem for the DR30? I'm thinking it may be a fuse or a relay but for the life of me I can't get the fuse box cover removed.

Also, the previous owner told me not to put down the electric rear windows as he was afraid that they wouldn't close again. I've tried them and they seem ok but he told me that it would be a difficult repair if the regulator failed. Anyone have any experience with this problem?

I had a problem with a small contact cap being worn out (it sits in plastic part where the indicator stalks are from memory) the part that makes contact with the steering wheel when you press the horn... I hope that makes sense. I just ended up turning a new one out of brass on a lathe.

As far as rear windows I was told by another owner the slides get abit of surface rust on them (most likely because of the black plastic grille in the door jam) clean that up they should run up/down fine.

if they do fail, there are a good bunch of 4 door regulators on auctions right now. i actually used the motor from a four door to fix mine. just swap on the motor...in all honesty a manual conversion is the way to go. these old power windows are nothing but trouble. my rears don;t work and i've had a buttload of headaches from every window.

Well, had the lowering springs from Jenesis installed with the new KYB shocks and it hasn't been lowered as much as they claimed it would (they told me 4-5 cm). As you can see from the pics, the car still looks way too high in the front. I sent an email to them and they gave me some BS excuse of course. I also received the new rims (Volk TE37V's) but I'm hesitant to put them on until the ride height is sorted.

familycar, you mentioned earlier that R31 coil overs would fit without modification right? Do you think that's the way to go or is there another way to get the front down? Where would I find a set of R31 coil overs for the front? Thanks in advance. Martin

wow that really sucks about the springs! for the coilovers, mine popped right in with no mods needed. i beleive your dr30 brakes are 100mm pcd caliper bolt spacing so they should bolt right on. same with the rears. you also could have a custom set made out of your existing fronts, which is something a lot of old school guys do here. that's what i had before...anyway http://r31.biz/shop/products/list-c8.html has a few coilover options. i have the 6 way adjustable zeals from them. also a shop called angry idustries out of Melbourne sells some coilovers that aren't bad. my freind has them on his r31 and they were pretty good quality and ride nicely. if i had to do all over i'd get some custom spring rates on a set of the r31 house blitzs coils. a tad pricey i suppose, but they are full pop in, no cut and weld of the lower strut base needed. and there's always YAJ, but very rare to see to see a set pop up on there honestly.

the jenesis coils are way overpriced IMO. I've seen maybe one or two sets of coilovers on YAJ in the last 3 months. and they are never/rarely that good/not blown. R31 units are easier to find from more than one source. Just my look at it, by no means the only options haha.