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1) LUBE THE DECK BELT,this produce enough friction for shut down.2) test the drive belt and replace it. if is necessary.3) Test the input voltage motor, if there are the motor need repair.4) Test the output voltage board, for input voltage motor, if there are NOT the board is faulty.5) See any wires is loose, and tight 6)See if there som animal inside that bit some wires.!6) Run the software calibration for diagnose, and troubleshooting, and fix it.

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1) lube the motor elevation, shaft +gear and adjust the POTentiometer a little2) see the diagram attached,3) Run the software calibration for troubleshooting,4)test the relais for open or faulty coil,and clean the contacts very wellGod bless you

What could be an issue is if the cabinet is a 4 ohm cabinet and you plug it into the 8 ohm output. of the RT100 ... IT WILL BE LOUDER that way... for a LITTLE while... till the power tubes get gassy from overheating and the sound will GO AWAY. VERIFY the impedance of the cabinet and plug into the correct jack on the RT100. Every RT100 will do this... it is GROSS abuse of the amp if you plug 4 ohm speakers into the 8 ohm jack. Some of the power tubes may conduct so heavily when they get gassy that they will cause a hum before total failure. The tubes will first get red, then orange plates and that drives metal ions out of the plates, then they get a purple glow and eventually blow the fuse or something in the power supply.

Slight boiling noise aside, a loud and unbearable rattling noise plagued my B&D Hot and Cold Water Cooler (top load). DIY Solution: The issue was some sort of copper coil vibrating against the front panel cover (just behind where you would place a glass. This copper colored coil is attached a canister looking thingy ma-bob, with a long black arm that is runs to the bottom right of the back cover. By removing all four screws on the back cover, you may angle (bottom out) the cover enough to gain access to this arm. GENTLY... lift the arm/rod so that the copper coil is no longer touching the front panel (and thus it is free to vibrate without that annoying noise). CAUTION: unplug the unit and ground yourself to avoid shock. Once you can see the coil is no longer touching, plug-er back in and see if the noise has stopped. Perform above at own risk.!!!!!

the first thing you want to make sure is that the igniter is working, remove the orfice on the front of the dryer, an start the dryer cycle, it should glow if it doesn't then you have a bad igniter, if the igniter glows an you have no heat (at all) you want to check the thermalfuse onthe dryer, check for continuity with a voltage tester it it beeps means is ok , if it doesn't pass current replace it,
if you get partial heat only then it would look into the coils, the 2 coils are inside on the front of the unit. coils are replace for the most when your dryer takes a longer cycle meaning it takes longer to dry or finishes an clothing still damp.

You should check the motor and the rollers. There are oil joints that can possibly use some oil or the motor is going bad. The way to check the motor is with a volt meter or to check it with your hand after running it for 5 minutes without a load on it. If it is very hot then replace the motor. Most noise problems come from the rollers bearing which usually just need to be oiled and not replace. There is a cover behind the big roller that can be removed to look at the problem