Hey, you! Yeah YOU!
How come you haven't registered? Have you read about our new blue star program? We are donating $10 of each blue star subscription to the Blue Ribbon Coalition to ensure that we will have trails to recreate on for years to come.
Our blue star comes with all the benefits of a red star such as 10 second searching, blue/red star member only giveaways, access to the private blue/red star member forums, etc.

I finally had a chance to unpackage my Bulldog Alpha 9300lb winch today as well. I'm looking forward to running this thing... the only thing faster is supposed to be the old school Warn 8274. This beauty came with the mounting plate, 100ft. synthetic rope, Hawse fairlead, and remote. I put it all on the scale and it came in at 90lbs even. I like the threaded connection for the remote so hopefully it won't come loose like my old Mile Marker... I also like that the power and ground cables already come sheathed.

We had a big day today. A couple buddies came up from Farmington on their day off and helped out.

We replaced the worn-out stock motor mounts with some MORE Bombproof motor mounts with a 1" motor lift. We also used their Bombproof Block Brackets which take advantage of eight threaded holes in the stock block as opposed to the three holes the stock brackets utiliize.

That's a weird cage design. I may be new to the idea of racing KOH, but every other sanctioned racing series I've been involved in the past 10 years, requires the main hoop behind the driver to be one piece. Your's is three pieces.

That's a weird cage design. I may be new to the idea of racing KOH, but every other sanctioned racing series I've been involved in the past 10 years, requires the main hoop behind the driver to be one piece. Your's is three pieces.

Since that's the main hoop is the main point of protection.......

I beleive the tech requirements for Stock class are a little more flexable.

Thanks to everyone for their encouragement. I have a lot to do, but we'll be there!

Next, many thanks to my wife who has been more than supportive of my long days and nights in the shop.

Thanks also to ToyCrwlDevlp for pitching in a couple of long days to get the cage almost finished. Too bad we ran out of wire for the MIG welder at 9:30 tonight.

Here's the progress photos on the cage.

We got some triangualtion and gussets going today. We still need to get the B-pillar triangulation in, as well as the seat-belt bar, rear frame tie-ins, and the rest of the trick tabs for the roof and firewall.

We got the door bars and the seats in.

I am really happy with how the rear deck portion of the cage came out. It looks very strong and is going to provide some good mounting options for the spare tire, Artec quart-crate, and Powertank.

Here is the rear firewall. I picked up a piece of scrap diamond-plate from my father in-law for free. I took a picture of the template I made to fit the firewall on the first try... no cut & fit, cut & fit here. I made the template, cut the diamond-plate and it fit first try. You simply cut some Masonite to the approximate shape you're trying to match... then hot-glue smaller tabs of Masonite all the way along the perimeter to match the contours and notches. This is way easier than cardboard.

I need some help figuring out how to re-route the PCV/CCV Valves so that when I am driving on my side (or upside down) that I don't pull oil into the air intake. I searched and read up on the 20 or so threads that cover this issue, but I will be honest that I don't know exactly what to do that also incorporates a catch-can into the system. How do I plumb this?

I used to have a '95 YJ with a 4.0L engine and capped the PCV system. That didn't work too well; eventually I started blowing oil out of the distributor and oil pan gaskets. I don't want to repeat that here.

Here is a picture of the stock routing on the 2006 LJ. There is one PCV that vents to the air-intake tube and one that connects directly to the intake manifold.

What is the correct way to delete both of the paths for oil to enter the intake, allowing the engine to breathe properly, while incorprating a catch can and a vent that will pass tech? Here is the catch can I will be using.

I purchased two of them. I figured I would install one at the back of the Jeep for the rear axle and one at the front for the PCV, transmission, and front axle. I don't really understand how I am supposed to route the hoses though. It seems like if the catch cans are vented, that they would still leak if rolled over. HELP!

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