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Tom Ford Black Orchid ~ perfume review

Black Orchid is the debut fragrance release from designer Tom Ford, whose eponymous beauty line under the Estee Lauder brand has been awaited with anticipation since it was announced last year. It is an "oriental chypre" and the notes include black truffle, ylang ylang, bergamot, effervescent citrus, black currant, jasmine, Tom Ford black orchid, "spicy floral and fruit accords", lotus wood, patchouli, incense, vetiver, vanilla, balsam and sandalwood.

Black Orchid starts right off with a bang — it is a statement fragrance, make no mistake about it. There is citrus, there is lots of sugar, there are heady floral notes, there is jammy fruit. Tempering all of that is a strong undertone of something earthy and dark (the black truffle accord, presumably) and vaguely off-kilter, in a good way.

As it dries down, the earthy-dark stuff fades, the vanilla steps up and the florals turn creamy and smooth. It manages to simultaneously remind me of ice cream (it is sweet and creamy and rich) without being exactly foody (there are way too many heady floral notes here to think about eating). Later still, the creamy vanilla part calms a bit, the woods warm up and some of the earthiness shines through again.

Black Orchid immediately called to mind Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb, but not because they smell the same; they share little other than a persistent sweetness. But when Flowerbomb was released last year, it struck me as a surprisingly conventional fragrance from two designers who were known for their unconventional approach to fashion. One year and 400 insipid fragrances later, it doesn't smell quite so conventional to me. It is still far sweeter than I like personally, and I still wouldn't go so far as to call it groundbreaking or wildly risky, but it has way more personality than I initially gave it credit for.

My feelings about Black Orchid are similar. If you were looking for Tom Ford to go way out on a limb, you may end up disappointed: this isn't M7. Like Flowerbomb, Black Orchid is sweeter than I like personally, and I wish the fun stuff in the top notes had some counterpart in the base — a little bit of something off-kilter at the end would have been a nice touch. But it is very well done, has personality to spare, and evokes a kind of grownup glamour that is very appealing after this year's onslaught of lackluster fruity florals geared towards the under-20 set. If there was a more impressive mainstream release this year, I can't think of what it was.

The packaging is just fabulous, and even better in person than in pictures: a retro-glam fluted black glass bottle with an engraved metal plate, very femme fatale, and sure to push you over the edge if you're waffling over whether to buy or not. The bottle for the Parfum is even better: a limited edition (signed and numbered, 5000 bottles) by Lalique, but for that you'll have to save your pennies.

Black Orchid is available at Neiman Marcus. If you don't love it, no worries, Tom Ford has more plans for 2007: Tom Ford Private Blend (a collection of 12 unisex mix 'n match fragrances for "fragrance connoisseurs", rumored to have connoisseur-worthy price tags) and a men's fragrance, and then a color cosmetics line to debut in the fall. A second women's fragrance will follow in 2008.

I really wasn't very impressed after a quick sniff on a card, but do give it a chance on skin a couple of times. I'm guessing it will be too sweet for you too, but it really is a great scent. Last night I wore it next to a random sample of the big mainstream releases from the last 2 years and I was struck by how much more interesting it is than most of what is out there.

As with the review of Miller & Bertaux yesterday, this reviews helps us get a first impression that sometimes does not match with the idea one would get by just reading the notes descriptions…

Thx Robin.

The mix and match stuff sounds interesting, also the men's scent.. But “connoisseur pricetag” does not.

M7 came out at a time when I just had gone to a Kodo ceremony at the local (Buenos Aires) Japanese Gardens, sponsored by an incense maker.. I smelt agarwood, and was surprised to find it in M7 (and delighted also). I hope the new men's scent is just as adventurous.

My impression of Black Orchid after sampling it last week: After a couple of hours of wear, sadly, this is not the fragrance for me. I like it but not enough to buy a full bottle. The drydown is so-so on me. I wish the top and heart notes would stay because those are what I really liked. The base notes that are left with me are vanilla and either incense or patchouli. While those aren't horrible notes, they do fall flat on me. Bummer. To me, this perfume did NOT live up to the hype.

Thanks — I looked into Kodo a tiny bit when I tried CdG's Kyoto (do you like that one?) but will check out that link as well.

On the TF Private Collection — bear in mind that I'm repeating a rumor, and actually can't remember where I read it originally. I have no idea what the real pricing will be. Supposedly they will have store-in-store boutiques where you can try the fragrances and have them blended for you, or something to that effect. We'll see, I think it is to launch in the early spring.

D, my own feelings are mixed. I like the earthy stuff in the top notes, but it is too sweet for me until the second hour. As I said above, I wish they had done something more in the base. Way more incense and vetiver, maybe.

That bottle is absolutely beautiful, so elegant! But I have a question. Is there a “new” definition of chypre? I always thought that in order for a perfume to be classified or described as a chypre, it had to contain oakmoss. I don't see oakmoss in the list of notes here.

My copy of Classification des Parfums et Terminologie says chypres are “based mainly on harmonies of oak moss, cistus, labdanum, patchouli, bergamot, etc”….so notice that it doesn't require any one note. But to my mind, the classic chypres are defined by oakmoss.

Modern chypres are something else altogether, and Black Orchid is only one of many modern fragrances using the term without containing noticeable oakmoss (Miss Dior Cherie, L'Artisan La Chasse, Lulu Guinness Cast a Spell).

DK Gold is gorgeous, and it is much closer to my taste — I'd be way more likely to wear it than Black Orchid. For that matter, I'd be more likely to wear Insolence. But if I were asked to pick next year's Fifi, I'd give it to Black Orchid. Don't know if that makes any sense, LOL…

Nor would I, so it isn't much of a clarification, LOL — I don't know what exactly defines a modern chypre. I would have called La Chasse a floral, the Lulu Guiness & Miss Dior Cherie fruity florals, and the Black Orchid an oriental.

Great review! They have it at Saks in NYC. I think the initial notes are hideous, then after 20 minutes it really calms down and starts to smell like what i want to call melting cupcakes on hot skin. It seems to be pretty strong and I wore it to work but it didnt fit a suit so i started not to like it – it wasn't great, but it was pretty good. I think I like it much better in a sexy outfit (i love to match the dress with the scent.) I think it is closer in sweetness actually to SL's chypre rouge. I very much like flowerbomb and I thought black orchid was similar to that in strength, they are not light or undetectable!

Saks NYC also had the parfum with the special bottle, (very pretty) however this does not surprise me because they seem to get everything no matter if it is exclusive or not. i am glad though, since there is no neimans in NYC, how will we get our fix? I agree with Victoria's review though, that it becomes flat after the initial notes die down. somewhat of a dissapointment

Robin — oh, what I wouldn't get for the dirty bits! I do think it is very, very pretty. But the dirty bits elude me… of course, I will re-test it. I certainly liked it better than most other new releases.

Ah, but you'd get something for them too, LOL…but surprised you're not getting any earthiness in the top notes. The patchouli in the drydown, I'm guessing, is that cleaned up patch they all use now, which is no more than mildly earthy to me. It reminds me of the patch in Flowerbomb actually.

I am *aching* to try this. Not because I think it'll be my next purchase as such, but just… because. The retro evocative packaging; everything they've done with the advertising; what the blend sounds like – it all makes me very interested.

Just really hope I am not in for another dissapointment, like with so many other recent launches I've been excited about.

I was in NM and got to “smell” Black Orchid on a card. I personally liked it. However I am in need of some help. I am not for sure if this is the forum I need to be in? I want to get something for my wonderful wife that is similar to Black Orchid. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Having read the blogs and reviews I am just getting more confused. I would like something elegant and unusual for her.

Hummmm? When the clerk first put B.O. on the card it seemed to be very strong. I took the card home and the next day it was very pleasant. As you can tell I am not very good at this. I will have to “raid” her dresser to find out what kind of perfumes she now has. I just wanted something “unusual and elegant” for her. Something to make her feel special! (tell me if I am way off track here)

Ok, just checked Sephora's fragrance finder, and they recommend Vera Wang for women who like White Diamonds. Vera Wang has a lovely holiday bottle out this year, this should send you to a picture at Nordstrom:

This scent was a surprise for me; much spicier than I anticipated with less moss. It's is appealing–it seems it would be infinitely appealing to fans of Yves St. Laurent's “Opium”–but that “sweetness” you were talking about, Robin, reminds me of the same stuff found in Kenneth Cole's “Black” and as you mentioned, “Flowerbomb” by Viktor and Rolf.

It has an exciting buzz to it, on my skin, but I don't see myself wearing it in any capacity. Not that it matters: I never seem to offer anything besides personal opinion–no substance. I'm a single note poster :).

Tom Ford may have just launched an expensive perfume called Black Orchid, but he’s really a fan of B.O. “I don’t wear deodorant,” he said at the fragrance’s Top of the Rock launch party. “I don’t! I actually love the way that human beings smell. And I love the way my dog’s ears smell. My smell is a little sweat, a little dog.” As clouds of Black Orchid were pumped into the crowd, he continued, “I think a lot of us have gotten so weird about it, especially Americans. Americans love to, like, wash away all trace of human smell. I like human smell. It’s what makes us attracted to each other. I mean, I’m not attracted to some laundry that I take out after I’ve put Febreze in it. I don’t like clean. I don’t like the smell of soap.” He also likes to go commando, which shouldn’t stop him from selling underwear at his first menswear store, opening in April on Madison Avenue.”(New York, news and features, article by Jada Yuan)

Poor Americans. Contempt for everything American abounds–even the American fascination with cleanliness. I agree with the notion of not disinfecting the human body like a hospital room floor and not being ashamed of the smell of human body odor. However, soap was a truly useful invention, what, with its antimicrobial properties and such. In my opinion, it beats scraping body grime off with a Roman tool, anyday. I'm not sure how this fragrance is selling but it would be interesting to see the fragrance do well in a market that Tom Ford feels is in contrast with his scent inspirations. It almost feels like an attempt to sell a perfume called “teriayaki steak” to a vegetarian.

So true, but in the end, Black Orchid still smells very American — the animalic notes are extremely subdued, and it is more clean than not. Somewhere or another I read something saying that TF wanted to capture the “smell of crotch” with Black Orchid, but I would say the perfumers did not humor that notion.

Yes, you're right–“Black Orchid” still has a clean finish, nomatter how many crotches Tom Ford wants to reference. I can picture the crew nodding their heads to his input, then sneaking in some “clean” notes when his back was turned ;).

Theo Fennell's new one called Scent is sort of like Black Orchid – but cleaner and more feminine – it'll be an instant classic.. I bought my wife this for Valentines day and she is in love with me all over again!

For some reason, I was not expecting to like this, so reluctantly tried it. My first reaction to perfume is emotional (as opposed to my best friend's more scientific approach…”I can detect ___ in the topnotes”, etc), and I must say that Black Orchid seduced me. It may not be groundbreaking or avant garde, but my “road weary” nose appreciated Ford's attempt to appeal to a sophisticated, seductive woman. I've grown tired of the many, many new releases marketed toward gals still in college. The retro, art deco bottle is gorgeous, and the juice inside lives up to the name. I like this one.

this fragrance, which only became available in the UK recently, reminds me powerfully of a men's fragrance whose name eludes me. It would have been one from about 15-20 years ago! Anyone else find that Black Orchid smells terribly familiar?

Black Orchid is everything you would expect from Tom Ford. The smell….the black bottle…. I recognize him 100% in this perfume. I find it original, bold, in your face, oriental, incense..the “femme fatale” type of thing…even dominatrix ..exactly in the line of almost everything Tom Ford has created previously. I think he has an unique sense of style and fashion and he's an incredible marketeer. I got this fragrance as a gift from a friend who knows that I admire Ford and loved basically everything he has done for Gucci and YSL.

I cannot say that I don't like BO, because I do, but I admit that I didn't fall in love with it instantly, I think it's one of those perfumes that fall in the category of “acquired tastes”.

so if you're the girly, romantic type, or clean and soapy you're not gonna like this….it may feel a little bit too “crowded” with ingredients, but I gave it time. B.O. is definitely a challenge and I like that. It's got personality.

Agree entirely, it is very Tom Ford. I do think he has been a bit more daring (and less commercial) with his men's fragrances than his women's, but still, this one is very well done even though I don't love it.

Oh my. Had to post an update. I'm probably one of the few who liked Black Orchid immediately, but now that I've lived with it for a while, I am absolutely in love with it! I wore it to work the other day (risky, I know, but I couldn't resist); at the end of the day, walking toward my car, I smelled something wonderful in the fall air and commented to a co-worker, “Do you smell incense burning?” and she said, “It's YOU! You've smelled marvelous all day!” I could not believe that delicious smoky incense was coming from *me*, a full nine hours after application. Wow. This fragrance seems to disappear for a while, then reminds you it's still there in the most delicious way! Thanks for allowing me to gush. I'll always have a bottle of Black Orchid.

I put a small, discreet spritz on the cleavage under a sweater…I think that's how I got away with wearing it at the office. And yes, I got more than one compliment, too! I had to write it down for someone who immediately ordered a bottle online!

Haven't tried VdF, but I surely will when I get the chance. I'm fairly certain I won't love it as much if it is a stripped down version of B.O., but if it's more versatile, I just might get a bottle.

Thanks for your wonderful reviews, Robin! Always a pleasure to visit this site.

Will be very curious what you think of VdF as a real lover of Black Orchid. I am thinking it isn't really a “more versatile” version so much as something entirely different…but maybe you'll have another take!

I'm from the UK and wore black orchid on a dinner date with my husband. I was walking down the street and someone stopped me and asked me what fragrance i was wearing. they loved it! they said that is a scent to cast a spell. It's true it does smell sickly sweet at first but after a while it smells marvelous and i just can't stop smelling myself. Yummmeeee

Tried VdF a couple of weeks ago. I'm generally not fond of florals, so I didn't love it, but I do think it is well done. VdF is more suitable for daytime and/or warmer weather. Quite pretty; I would recommend it to floral lovers. Happy New Year!

“A bit masculine” is the latest style, although I myself found it only in the top notes of BO. Have you tried the newer EdT version, Voile de Fleur? It is more floral, less masculine, although I don't find it as rich & velvety either.

So my store was awarded bonus this month, so I promptly went in to Neiman's,determined to pick out a Tom Ford Private Collection Fragrance. I'd smelled Purple Patchouli (too sweet), Oak Moss (great but needs to be layered, and Tuscan Leather (too cocaine). After nixing the extremes and debating a few that were similar, I ended up with Bois de Rouge. And I bought it. $178.02, just like that, never having worn it before. I sampled Noir Noir and Japan Noir, and have been rotating the three these past few days. I've decided that they all smell like blurry versions of Serge Lutens – like a take off of his Moroccan spices, these fragrances are leathery and chypre-y and earthy and warm and all things interesting but still come out bland. Now here's the worst part – I have no buyers remorse. I am just so excited to own a TF Private Collection. Is that horribly embarrassing?

I didn't understand why so many people found the topnotes so revolting so I sprayed it on a piece of paper, because I was wearing something else, and I accidentally got a little on my thumb. The paper smelled like aged romano in a carnivorous orchid hothouse. The bit that hit my thumb however smelled delicious and complex right away. I don't know, maybe my skin is a topnote killer. Maybe my ConEdison envelope just doesn't have the right chemistry to wear Black Orchid. I love this fragrance a lot, but I would never suggest someone buy it without trying it on.

I was really keen to try this out, but when I finally did I just realised it's Black XS PH made with far better ingredients. If I didn't already own XS, then I'd invest in the Tom Ford, as it's demonstrably better. But since I do have the Black XS, the TF is basically redundant.

A little late to the party here but I just went on a perfume spree and while out and about got talked into trying BO. At first blush it smelled really lush and heavenly but after about 20 minutes smelled like I'd spilled grape jelly all over my wrist! I'm hovering on the edge of menopause and I'm finding that things are smelling a bit odd on me so I don't know if it's me or Tom….but I'm going to have to take a pass.

Tried the new Lanvin Rumeur yesterday as well as the (completely) new Chloe. Not conversant enough to review them – but they both smell luscious in the bottle (can't trust my chemistry right now). Has anyone else tried either?

can't wait for her review of Rueure. I've got it on (very lightly) today, trying to figure out if it's working for me. It's been so long since I've strayed from my Big 4 (Joy,JMalone Nectarine etc, Lemon Sugar, Hermes Jardin Sur le Nil (a bit of a pattern there…:-)) that it's a little scary to attempt to branch out!). Whenever I get the bug to try something new I try to make sure I don't have to be somewhere'businessy' – just in case!:-). That was what happened with the BO – my clients at lunch were a bit put off by even that little dab on my wrist! But it smelled great on the lady who was sampling it! Oh, well. Nothing ventured….

Im way past this blog ending, but I happen to love this one. This is the scent of going out and hearing live music at night. All the energy and sound, and it smells good with cigarette smoke. That is, if one must smoke!

The Black Orchid. . . I've never seen Black XS Pour Homme. So many worlds un-discovered! I am taking a basics in excel class on Tuesday, I am so excited because then I'm going to start my spreadsheet! yay!

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this fragrance!!! I am a guy who wears this scent and I feel that anyone can wear it whether male or female; Tom Ford Black Orchid blurs boundaries.
It has a moderate to strong sillage and very long lasting. I would categorize this Eau De Parfum as “Floral-Gourmand”
Black Orchid is superbly blended, very carnal and all out sexy. The florals are alluring, the woods masculine and the vanilla creamy and delicious.
This fragrance is definitely an evening scent, date scent or an important board meeting scent but worn sparingly.
I would highly recommend this fragrance…a must buy!

Well fortunately for my pocketbook, this scent did not agree with me at all. I was looking forward to liking it because I appreciate some sillage for my sexy scents and I prefer perfumes that are long lasting. However, it just doesn’t agree with my chemistry at all. The opening sweetness is totally overbearing and as it dries down all I can smell is rotting fruit with wafts of vanilla. DH totally vetoed it as well. I bet it smells great on other people though – Oh well, onto the next sample!

This is one perfume that I bought unsmelled, as the reviews that I saw on Sephora (newbie perfumista!) were wonderful.

I took one whiff and threw that sucker in the TRASH! Oh it was awful. I wish I would have kept it to ‘revisit’ as they say, but I can’t imagine it improving. It was full of those ‘heady florals’ that for me equate to a hideous headache.

It was nauseatingly floral and sickeningly sweet. Maybe for some, but not for this chick.

Sorry cologneluvr, I would have gladly sent (scent?lol) it to you had I known about NST!

we flew to to Tenerife from Manchester airport.
and in the duty free I spotted this and ran to the Tom Ford stand, I couldn’t wait to try it.

at first I coudn’t figure out what smelled like, chocolate?. but after five minutes it turned very nice. I sprayed a couple of times on my arm and that was about 06:00am and I could still smell the day after even in the evening. I thought how long is this going to last.

but very right about the dry down, it is like burning incsence. I’d love a bottle of this, it’s expensive though and I wouldn’t know when to wear it :S

I never really followed Tom Ford’s fragrances I pretty much stuck to my Givenchy Amarige Mariage for that signature full-bodied fragrance but after buying a bottle of this perfume changed my opinion. It’s sexy scent is good for a day at work and transitions to a night as the day goes by. It’s earthy, sweet, and sexy. All through the work day I can’t stop smelling my wrists lol