The 2016 Femina is all Malvasia di Candia–from Crete–unoaked, dry and coming in at 13.5% alcohol. Sourced from limestone-soil vineyards at 300 to 400 meters in altitude, this is typically aromatically invigorating, a little grassy, spicy and floral, exuberant on the nose. And it is Malvasia, which tends to have some personality. It is a sure-fire refresher in the summer, but that's not all. It has reasonable concentration for the level and excellent structure. It is tightly wound on the palate, especially now that it is young, finishing with its typical tension. One of my favorite summer refreshers, this is a can't-miss buy if you like fresh whites with personality. It may well age a bit, too (the winery advised five to seven years), but it is a fresh white that benefits greatly from its freshness, so you might not want to bother holding it very long, no matter how long it theoretically lasts.

This is a deeply coloured, intensely aromatic and unusual white with lifted pine/evergreen/retsina-like aromas. Which I actually like. There is also intriguing apricot, star fruit and spice. It is medium weight, with some viscosity and this very vibrant lemony sappy, bitter palate. Tasted November 2016.

A heavily terpenic, reductive, super-intensely-flavoured white made with the indigenous malvasia di Candia aromatica variety, aromatic to be sure, by one of Crete's leading estates. It offers some intriguing white chocolate flavours at this stage, heading into the oxidative phase of ageing - I'd drink this up soon to capture the remaining tropical fruit and heavy floral-jasmine character. For now, it's an intense ride for the money. Dry but quite rich. Tasted November 2016. Value Rating: ***

One of the more interesting dry white wines you will encounter is this malvasia from Crete, so exotically perfumed and lemon intense. The purity, clarity and clean fun is just terrific here. With a big chill and a mess of grilled calamari I can’t think of much better or simpler pleasures. The acidity and the quick peppery jolt only help to enhance the jovial spirit. I could drink this all the time. Drink 2016-2017. Tasted November 2016.

Wonderful substance to this aromatic white offering great concentration of flavour and spot-on malvasia typicity. Its golden hue is typical of this maritime grape that has a tendency to oxidize. There is a hint of tannin that can be felt on the palate that adds intrigue and texture but no oak. A lovely saline and mineral note is matched by stone fruit, light tropical notes, Asian pear, passion fruit and tangerine on the palate. Sophisticated and compelling. Excellent value.

This is 100% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, a clone of the ancient Cretian Malvasia di Candia, a grape with a history that dates back beyond the 14th century and the Venetian occupation of Crete. The Aromatica clone is grown exclusively on Crete. This example is (not surprisingly) intensely aromatic. With complex pear, apricot and spice tones, this is a profoundly floral wine.

Pale colour, medium deep straw, I would say, with a slight green tinge. Very nice nose. Grapy and floral. Very much like, I would say, traditional Mediterranean varieties like Muscat or Malavasia. With notes of fresh grapes, green apple, fresh lemon and a lot of flowers. Good bite on the palate it is a medium weight, with a really mouth-watering sensation of freshness. A hint of grape skin. I mean like biting into a bunch of fresh grapes. Good purity of fruit here, so modern vinification. Nice zesty notes on the finish. Fairly long and persistent. A really pleasurable wine.

The 2014 Femina is the winery's unoaked Malvasia, a consistently fine performer these days that always exceeds any expectations based on the price. To be clear, it is all Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, sourced from an Italian clone and vines that are now around 20 years old. It comes in at 13.6% alcohol. It is a bit green this year, with some grassy notes. It does make the Malvasia a bit more neutral. This still makes a statement on its own terms. Underneath, it is rather full-bodied for the type and price level. It is, more importantly, crisp, refreshing and rather intense. Lingering nicely on the finish, it has the acidity to be a great food wine and the aromatics and flavors to be refreshing in the summer heat. I wasn't sure about this year's iteration at first, but it certainly grew on me in its own style and on its own terms. You will be hard pressed to do better for the modest money. It should hold a bit, but drink it young and fresh for best results.

The 2013 Femina is Malvasia. I haven't seen many vintages of this yet, but it has quickly become one of the wines I look forward to as Greece's summer sessions begin anew each year. This year's version is expressive and elegant, with all that Malvasia flavor laced into the palate. Well structured, lively and pure, it seems to be in fine shape now. It also has the ability to hold nicely for a few years, although we should take that in stages. If it doesn’t project the pure power of some versions, the next day it was still glorious and persistent, with tension on the finish and some enlivening herbaceous hints. Drink now-2018.

Explosively aromatic in the Malvasia idiom, with crunchy, zesty green fruit and plenty of floral-orange blossom notes. Hard to believe this comes from Crete; it would be equally at home in Northern Italy, stylistically. Length and depth are quite impressive, and the palate is just off-dry, making it a perfect match for spicy Asian fare. In consignment.

The 2012 Femina is Malvasia (Malmsey in English), coming in at 13.5% alcohol. Granting that sensory memory is a fragile thing, this seems more expressive, approachable and open than last year’s model, which was very tightly wound when young (and still is). This is no wimp, though. It still shows remarkable aromatics, fine solidity in the mid-palate, intensity of flavor and a persistent finish. As did its 2011 sibling, reviewed this issue, this held effortlessly for a couple of days. Remember that Malvasia is what I like to call a “personality” grape. It won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but those who love it should swoon. This winery is relatively new on the American scene. It is entitled to some props and applause. I know I’ve been impressed. Drink now-2017.

The 2011 Femina is Malvasia. Since I have the ‘12 in hand now, it is worth a look back at this first vintage that I saw to see how it progressed. It has held quite well. Well, ok, that’s an understatement, and it is pretty clear that this was initially underrated. It is notably better now, particularly considering how tight it was on receipt. It has come along brilliantly. A bit amber in color, it is piercing on opening, with that tightly wound, hard edged and high acid demeanor that I originally noted. Pulling it out of the fridge and sampling it quickly made it seem quite shrill. As it warmed and got closer to 60F, though, it became increasingly delicious, full bodied, aromatic and rather complex. It is a mouthful, powerful and intense—not your easy, fruity summer sipper, but a great food wine. It is more proof of the adage that people drink big whites too cold. And this is a big white. It reminded me a bit of a dry and steely Alsace Riesling (an analogy to structure and style, not flavor and aromatics, of course). Most of all, it was invigorating while increasingly expressive as it aired out. I played with this over 3 days. It never faltered, not for a moment. The combination of acidity and concentration may preserve this well, if it can avoid oxidizing. Let’s still be conservative until we get there. Drink now-2016.