Versace

Milan: This season, Donatella Versace revisited her brother Gianni’s final collection — a darker, moodier direction for the house, which was never further explored due to his death shortly after. The gothic theme played out in armor-like constructions, crucifix imagery, studded leather and chainmail. An all-black pallette emphasized the hard-core effect, and gained energy from punctuations of bright yellow and orange. Silhouettes were structured and shapely — corseted sheaths, molded coat-dresses, pencil skirts — and featured intricate piecing and seaming, while high necks and long sleeves lent a clerical feel. Jewels, plush astrakhan and skin-revealing cutouts lent an element of edgy glamour. — Anna Jane Davis