https://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Faabio&feedformat=atomLinuxTVWiki - User contributions [en]2018-03-20T02:26:39ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.15https://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Shielded_Loop_Antenna_/_Yagi-Uda_array_of_loopsShielded Loop Antenna / Yagi-Uda array of loops2013-04-05T09:18:59Z<p>Faabio: /* Example */</p>
<hr />
<div>It is plenty of article on home builds antenna onto the internet. Most of them are for antenna that can work for both emission and reception.<br />
<br />
We will see here two different designs for reception into the FM and TV band. Those 2 designs are using the same base type of antenna: the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loop_antenna loop antenna].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Shielded loop ===<br />
A crude representation of a shielded loop:<br />
[[File:Shielded_loop.png]]<br />
<br />
The principle is the same than for a loop. From wikipedia: a continuous conducting path leading from one conductor of a two-wire transmission line to the other conductor. All planar loops are directional antennas with a sharp null, and have a radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna with E and H fields interchanged.<br />
<br />
The main advantages of loops antenna are tree:<br />
<br />
1) An outstanding signal quality. It is a simple design that perform very well.<br />
<br />
2) For large loops, higher gain (about 10%) than the other forms.<br />
<br />
3) Large loop antennas are less susceptible to localized noise, partly due to their lack of a need for a groundplane.<br />
<br />
The advantage of a shielded loop over a non shielded one:<br />
<br />
4) The electric interference from the big city (streetlights, television's , cars etc...) have no influence on the received signal.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
Like we will not perform emission, any good quality coaxial cable may be used to realize such an antenna. Critical to correctly design this antenna is the wavelength of the program you want to receive best.<br />
<br />
Less critical but important is the capacitance of the coaxial cable. The circumference of the loop will be equal to the wavelenght, and that capacitance is not negligible. In practice, any good coaxial cable for TV installation will do the job. <br />
<br />
My first concern with this antenna was the FM band, because I was completely unable to receive my favorite radio program on 93.8 MHz where I am living.<br />
<br />
'''Wavelength [meter] = 300 / frequency [MMHz]'''<br />
<br />
For 93.8 MHz, we have 300 / 93.8 = 3.198 meters.<br />
<br />
According to the Balanis (Antenna Theory: Analysis and Design, by Constantine A. Balanis, it is better to use a little bigger circle. (Read the book for the details.)<br />
<br />
'''Antenna circumference = 1.1 * wavelength''' = 1.1 * 3.198 = 3.518 meters.<br />
<br />
So, we need 3.52 meters of coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
For the realization, it is up to you. Metal will not work because it will interfere with the antenna. Plastic or wood are best. The best design is one that will approach a perfect circle, like a bicycle wheel. <br />
<br />
I made mine with one vertical stick of wood and 6 smaller sticks of the same wood. I made small holes at the extremity of each stick in order to be able to attach the coaxial there. I used 2 more little pieces of wood at the center of this wheel in order to fix the sticks.<br />
<br />
We also need to cut 1 cm of the shield at the top of the antenna. The center wire must be left intact. This is very important, otherwise the antenna will be a shield, and not an antenna. Use a cutter or a good knife.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
If you look at the antenna representation, we have 2 signals wires and the ground. It is several possibility, the simplest is to use one antenna coupler. They are such antenna coupler into the market with one coaxial socket at one end (for the antenna cable) and 2 symmetrical connections at the other end. They are made to connect an antenna installation to a receiver.<br />
<br />
It is 2 variants of them.<br />
<br />
Radio variant: one connection for AM, one connection for FM.<br />
<br />
TV variant: One connection for band 1 to 3 (VHF low, FM, VHF high), one connection for band 4 and 5 (UHF).<br />
<br />
The radio variant is the easiest to find, but the TV variant is more versatile.<br />
<br />
It is a third variant, an universal 300 ohms to 75 ohms coupler. It only have 2 connectors, one symmetrical 300 ohms and one assymetrical 75 ohms.<br />
<br />
When you have such a coupler, it is just to wire the 2 signal wires into the socket you want to use, and to wire the antenna ground to the ground of the coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I am finally able to listen to 93.8 FM. It was necessary to put the antenna outdoor. I even can get the stereo, but with a lot of noise. But mono is fine. And all the other stations are working fine.<br />
<br />
I also can get the digital TV on the UHF band with this antenna, and that without changing anything to the antenna or the coupling.<br />
<br />
=== Yagi-Uda array of loops ===<br />
The Yagi-Uda array of loops will outperform any commercial TV antenna. It will be compact, provide a high gain and a good signal quality. It is possible to make it to work at very high frequencies, as well than at relatively low frequencies, at the price of a huge size in this last case. But in all cases, it will be more compact for the same gain than a commercial Yagi made with a dipole and some kind of reflectors and directors.<br />
<br />
The downside is that it will not be a broadband antenna. If you want to cover the whole UHF TV band, 2 or 3 antennas of different sizes can be necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, in situation with sharp reflexivity, other design will work better like the panel antenna EE06 from wisi, that both for analog and digital TV. That say, it would be interesting to compare those 2 antenna design in high reflexivity situation, I never made this test and will maybe be surprised by the result. Anyway, panel antennas outperform the classical Yagi in term of signal quality in such conditions.<br />
<br />
All the Yagi-Uda, Yagi in short, are made of an active element (a dipole in most cases), a reflector (some kind of panel in most cases) and an ensemble of directors (some kind of sticks in most cases). The particularity of the Yagi-Uda array of loops is that this antenna will use loops (again!) for all its elements.<br />
<br />
[[File:Yagy-Uda.png]]<br />
<br />
==== Calculation ====<br />
I made, it was some time ago when I was living in Sweden, a spreadsheet that help to calculate such antennas. You can visit my new [http://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi fourre-tout], or download it direct at [https://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi/antennes/Antennemulticadres.gnumeric?attredirects=0 Antennemulticadres.gnumeric]<br />
<br />
It is only in French now, but I will translate it soon in English.<br />
<br />
All that is needed is to change the frequency and the number of elements in order to suit your need.<br />
<br />
This spreadsheet does not perform gain calculation. The reason is simple: a realistic gain calculation for such an antenna is far too complicated for a spreadsheet. In practice, a 5 elements antenna (an antenna with one reflector, the active element and 3 directors) will be enough in many cases.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
No rules here, use your imagination, you are on your own.<br />
<br />
Some general considerations: <br />
- the elements must be made of some kind of conducting material: copper, aluminum, coaxial cable are best suited. With coaxial cable, we can use only the shield or connect the shield with the inner conductor.<br />
<br />
- the horizontal stick can be made of anything and can be placed anywhere, so long than it takes up the various elements. If it is made of conducting material, the elements must be isolated from the stick.<br />
<br />
- the distance between the reflector and the active element is very critical. It determine most of the impedance of the antenna as well than other characteristic.<br />
<br />
- all the elements are circles, and their center must be on the same line.<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
All we need is some kind of 300 ohms to 75 ohms antenna coupler. Some models are costing less than 1 $.<br />
<br />
The active element is coupled to the coupler by its 2 extremity on the 300 ohms symmetrical side of the coupler. Made those connections as short as possible.<br />
<br />
The coaxial antenna cable is connected to the other side of the coupler.<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I made one such antenna in Malmö, Sweden. I made it from sticks of wood and pieces of coaxial cable. With a 5 elements antenna, I was able to receive all the TV channels but one that was in black and white with a lot of noise (analog TV). The antenna was calculated for this channel.<br />
<br />
After expanding the number of elements to 19, I was able to receive all the channels in color and without noise. This 19 elements was outperforming by 2 dB a wisi EB66, one of the better high gain UHF antenna on the market, that on the frequency the antenna was designed for. I am sure that with a better mechanical design (use of copper instead of coaxial cable), the result would have been even better.<br />
<br />
As expected, the gain of the antenna in its 19 elements version was decreasing fast when the channel frequency was decreasing or increasing from the antenna central frequency.</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Shielded_Loop_Antenna_/_Yagi-Uda_array_of_loopsShielded Loop Antenna / Yagi-Uda array of loops2013-03-20T08:00:19Z<p>Faabio: /* I don */</p>
<hr />
<div>It is plenty of article on home builds antenna onto the internet. Most of them are for antenna that can work for both emission and reception.<br />
<br />
We will see here two different designs for reception into the FM and TV band. Those 2 designs are using the same base type of antenna: the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loop_antenna loop antenna].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Shielded loop ===<br />
A crude representation of a shielded loop:<br />
[[File:Shielded_loop.png]]<br />
<br />
The principle is the same than for a loop. From wikipedia: a continuous conducting path leading from one conductor of a two-wire transmission line to the other conductor. All planar loops are directional antennas with a sharp null, and have a radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna with E and H fields interchanged.<br />
<br />
The main advantages of loops antenna are tree:<br />
<br />
1) An outstanding signal quality. It is a simple design that perform very well.<br />
<br />
2) For large loops, higher gain (about 10%) than the other forms.<br />
<br />
3) Large loop antennas are less susceptible to localized noise, partly due to their lack of a need for a groundplane.<br />
<br />
The advantage of a shielded loop over a non shielded one:<br />
<br />
4) The electric interference from the big city (streetlights, television's , cars etc...) have no influence on the received signal.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
Like we will not perform emission, any good quality coaxial cable may be used to realize such an antenna. Critical to correctly design this antenna is the wavelength of the program you want to receive best.<br />
<br />
Less critical but important is the capacitance of the coaxial cable. The circumference of the loop will be equal to the wavelenght, and that capacitance is not negligible. In practice, any good coaxial cable for TV installation will do the job. <br />
<br />
My first concern with this antenna was the FM band, because I was completely unable to receive my favorite radio program on 93.8 MHz where I am living.<br />
<br />
'''Wavelength [meter] = 300 / frequency [MMHz]'''<br />
<br />
For 93.8 MHz, we have 300 / 93.8 = 3.198 meters.<br />
<br />
According to the Balanis (Antenna Theory: Analysis and Design, by Constantine A. Balanis, it is better to use a little bigger circle. (Read the book for the details.)<br />
<br />
'''Antenna circumference = 1.1 * wavelength''' = 1.1 * 3.198 = 3.518 meters.<br />
<br />
So, we need 3.52 meters of coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
For the realization, it is up to you. Metal will not work because it will interfere with the antenna. Plastic or wood are best. The best design is one that will approach a perfect circle, like a bicycle wheel. <br />
<br />
I made mine with one vertical stick of wood and 6 smaller sticks of the same wood. I made small holes at the extremity of each stick in order to be able to attach the coaxial there. I used 2 more little pieces of wood at the center of this wheel in order to fix the sticks.<br />
<br />
We also need to cut 1 cm of the shield at the top of the antenna. The center wire must be left intact. This is very important, otherwise the antenna will be a shield, and not an antenna. Use a cutter or a good knife.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
If you look at the antenna representation, we have 2 signals wires and the ground. It is several possibility, the simplest is to use one antenna coupler. They are such antenna coupler into the market with one coaxial socket at one end (for the antenna cable) and 2 symmetrical connections at the other end. They are made to connect an antenna installation to a receiver.<br />
<br />
It is 2 variants of them.<br />
<br />
Radio variant: one connection for AM, one connection for FM.<br />
<br />
TV variant: One connection for band 1 to 3 (VHF low, FM, VHF high), one connection for band 4 and 5 (UHF).<br />
<br />
The radio variant is the easiest to find, but the TV variant is more versatile.<br />
<br />
It is a third variant, an universal 300 ohms to 75 ohms coupler. It only have 2 connectors, one symmetrical 300 ohms and one assymetrical 75 ohms.<br />
<br />
When you have such a coupler, it is just to wire the 2 signal wires into the socket you want to use, and to wire the antenna ground to the ground of the coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I am finally able to listen to 93.8 FM. It was necessary to put the antenna outdoor. I even can get the stereo, but with a lot of noise. But mono is fine. And all the other stations are working fine.<br />
<br />
I also can get the digital TV on the UHF band with this antenna, and that without changing anything to the antenna or the coupling.<br />
<br />
==== Example ====<br />
This is an antenna which took 15 minutes to make with instructions above. My television broadcast is in 600MHz and 610MHz, so calculated loop diameter is 300/600=0,5m. Coaxial cable length is about 0,55m. I'm not sure of the coaxial type, but it is common from local store. I welded the loop to the input coaxial cable. <br />
Before with similar but unshielded loop antenna I got heavy interference from traffic, moving elevator or some random sources. It seems now that all that is gone. Also signal level went from 55% to 70%. Thank you for the original instructions!<br />
<br />
=== Yagi-Uda array of loops ===<br />
The Yagi-Uda array of loops will outperform any commercial TV antenna. It will be compact, provide a high gain and a good signal quality. It is possible to make it to work at very high frequencies, as well than at relatively low frequencies, at the price of a huge size in this last case. But in all cases, it will be more compact for the same gain than a commercial Yagi made with a dipole and some kind of reflectors and directors.<br />
<br />
The downside is that it will not be a broadband antenna. If you want to cover the whole UHF TV band, 2 or 3 antennas of different sizes can be necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, in situation with sharp reflexivity, other design will work better like the panel antenna EE06 from wisi, that both for analog and digital TV. That say, it would be interesting to compare those 2 antenna design in high reflexivity situation, I never made this test and will maybe be surprised by the result. Anyway, panel antennas outperform the classical Yagi in term of signal quality in such conditions.<br />
<br />
All the Yagi-Uda, Yagi in short, are made of an active element (a dipole in most cases), a reflector (some kind of panel in most cases) and an ensemble of directors (some kind of sticks in most cases). The particularity of the Yagi-Uda array of loops is that this antenna will use loops (again!) for all its elements.<br />
<br />
[[File:Yagy-Uda.png]]<br />
<br />
==== Calculation ====<br />
I made, it was some time ago when I was living in Sweden, a spreadsheet that help to calculate such antennas. You can visit my new [http://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi fourre-tout], or download it direct at [https://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi/antennes/Antennemulticadres.gnumeric?attredirects=0 Antennemulticadres.gnumeric]<br />
<br />
It is only in French now, but I will translate it soon in English.<br />
<br />
All that is needed is to change the frequency and the number of elements in order to suit your need.<br />
<br />
This spreadsheet does not perform gain calculation. The reason is simple: a realistic gain calculation for such an antenna is far too complicated for a spreadsheet. In practice, a 5 elements antenna (an antenna with one reflector, the active element and 3 directors) will be enough in many cases.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
No rules here, use your imagination, you are on your own.<br />
<br />
Some general considerations: <br />
- the elements must be made of some kind of conducting material: copper, aluminum, coaxial cable are best suited. With coaxial cable, we can use only the shield or connect the shield with the inner conductor.<br />
<br />
- the horizontal stick can be made of anything and can be placed anywhere, so long than it takes up the various elements. If it is made of conducting material, the elements must be isolated from the stick.<br />
<br />
- the distance between the reflector and the active element is very critical. It determine most of the impedance of the antenna as well than other characteristic.<br />
<br />
- all the elements are circles, and their center must be on the same line.<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
All we need is some kind of 300 ohms to 75 ohms antenna coupler. Some models are costing less than 1 $.<br />
<br />
The active element is coupled to the coupler by its 2 extremity on the 300 ohms symmetrical side of the coupler. Made those connections as short as possible.<br />
<br />
The coaxial antenna cable is connected to the other side of the coupler.<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I made one such antenna in Malmö, Sweden. I made it from sticks of wood and pieces of coaxial cable. With a 5 elements antenna, I was able to receive all the TV channels but one that was in black and white with a lot of noise (analog TV). The antenna was calculated for this channel.<br />
<br />
After expanding the number of elements to 19, I was able to receive all the channels in color and without noise. This 19 elements was outperforming by 2 dB a wisi EB66, one of the better high gain UHF antenna on the market, that on the frequency the antenna was designed for. I am sure that with a better mechanical design (use of copper instead of coaxial cable), the result would have been even better.<br />
<br />
As expected, the gain of the antenna in its 19 elements version was decreasing fast when the channel frequency was decreasing or increasing from the antenna central frequency.</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/LinuxTVWiki:SandboxLinuxTVWiki:Sandbox2013-03-20T07:56:45Z<p>Faabio: </p>
<hr />
<div>= TerraTec T6 Dual DVB-T stick =<br />
<br />
It consists of<br />
* Afatech AF9035B-N2 USB Interface with included AF9033 Demodulator<br />
* Afatech AF9033B-N2 second Demodulator<br />
* Fitipower FC0012 Tuner (2 off)<br />
<br />
This device is currently not officially supported by Linux, however it is possible to get this device working using a slightly patched version of the AF9035 driver as used in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
== Instruction how to get the stick working ==<br />
<br />
Follow the instruction to get the AF903x source code archive '''AF903x.tar.gz''' in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
I run kernel 3.0.1 and therefore I needed a few patched just to get the source code compiled (you may not need all of them, but they shouldn't hurt either):<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x.h 2011-08-13 16:49:49.799506005 +0200<br />
@@ -9,7 +9,6 @@<br />
#include &lt;linux/slab.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/module.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/kref.h&gt;<br />
-#include &lt;linux/smp_lock.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/usb.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;asm/uaccess.h&gt;<br />
#include &quot;dvb-usb.h&quot;<br />
--- a/src/userdef.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/userdef.h 2011-08-01 22:56:02.626583791 +0200<br />
@@ -8,7 +8,9 @@<br />
typedef int INT; // 4 bytes<br />
//typedef void * HANDLE; <br />
<br />
+#ifndef NULL<br />
#define NULL 0<br />
+#endif<br />
<br />
#ifdef IN<br />
#undef IN<br />
--- a/api/type.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/type.h 2011-08-01 22:54:38.197342415 +0200<br />
@@ -3,6 +3,15 @@<br />
<br />
#include &quot;userdef.h&quot;// for Linux<br />
<br />
+#ifdef IN<br />
+#undef IN<br />
+#endif<br />
+#ifdef OUT<br />
+#undef OUT<br />
+#endif<br />
+#ifdef INOUT<br />
+#undef INOUT<br />
+#endif<br />
#define IN<br />
#define OUT<br />
#define INOUT<br />
--- a/api/usb2impl.c 2011-02-15 11:12:59.000000000 +0100<br />
+++ b/api/usb2impl.c 2011-08-01 21:59:17.635389432 +0200<br />
@@ -6,7 +6,6 @@<br />
#include &lt;linux/slab.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/module.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/kref.h&gt;<br />
-#include &lt;linux/smp_lock.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/usb.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;asm/uaccess.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/device.h&gt;<br />
<br />
Then, here are some bug fixes to prevent deadlocks of the mutexes:<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x-drv.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x-drv.c 2011-08-12 21:26:10.610770606 +0200<br />
@@ -1075,7 +1075,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
<br />
if(PDC-&gt;architecture != Architecture_PIP)<br />
{<br />
- if ( PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; bOn) dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
+ if ( PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; bOn) dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
<br />
for (i=0; i&lt;PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber; i++)<br />
{<br />
@@ -1091,7 +1091,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
- if(PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; !bOn) dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
+ if(PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; !bOn) dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
@@ -1100,7 +1100,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
PDC-&gt;fc[ucSlaveDemod].GraphBuilt = 1;<br />
<br />
if (PDC-&gt;fc[0].GraphBuilt == 0 || PDC-&gt;fc[1].GraphBuilt == 0)<br />
- dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
+ dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
<br />
dwError = DRV_ApCtrl (PDC, ucSlaveDemod, bOn);<br />
}<br />
@@ -1112,7 +1112,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
if (PDC-&gt;bTunerPowerOff != true) dwError = DRV_ApCtrl (PDC, ucSlaveDemod, bOn);<br />
<br />
if (PDC-&gt;fc[0].GraphBuilt == 0 &amp;&amp; PDC-&gt;fc[1].GraphBuilt == 0 &amp;&amp; PDC-&gt;bTunerPowerOff == true)<br />
- dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
+ dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
And finally, the patches to support the TerraTec T6 Dual DVB-T stick:<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x-devices.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x-devices.c 2011-08-01 22:06:08.118919600 +0200<br />
@@ -127,6 +127,7 @@ struct usb_device_id af903x_usb_id_table<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x1002) },<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x1003) },<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x9035) },<br />
+ { USB_DEVICE(0x0ccd,0x10b3) }, /* Terratec T6 */<br />
{ 0}, /* Terminating entry */<br />
};<br />
MODULE_DEVICE_TABLE(usb, af903x_usb_id_table);<br />
@@ -156,7 +157,7 @@ struct dvb_usb_device_properties af903x_<br />
}<br />
},<br />
#else<br />
- .num_adapters = 1,<br />
+ .num_adapters = 2,<br />
.adapter = {<br />
{<br />
.caps = DVB_USB_ADAP_HAS_PID_FILTER | DVB_USB_ADAP_PID_FILTER_CAN_BE_TURNED_OFF,<br />
@@ -198,13 +199,17 @@ struct dvb_usb_device_properties af903x_<br />
},<br />
},<br />
#endif<br />
- .num_device_descs =1,<br />
+ .num_device_descs =2,<br />
.devices = {<br />
{ &quot;ITEtech USB2.0 DVB-T Recevier&quot;,<br />
{ &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[0], &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[1],&amp;af903x_usb_id_table[2],<br />
&amp;af903x_usb_id_table[3], &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[4], NULL},<br />
{ NULL },<br />
},<br />
+ { &quot;Terratec T6&quot;,<br />
+ { &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[5], NULL},<br />
+ { NULL },<br />
+ },<br />
{NULL},<br />
<br />
}<br />
--- a/api/Fitipower_FC0012.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/Fitipower_FC0012.c 2011-08-11 22:54:23.390763425 +0200<br />
@@ -35,6 +35,12 @@ Dword FC0012_open (<br />
IN Byte chip<br />
) {<br />
Dword error = Error_NO_ERROR;<br />
+ int i;<br />
+ Byte reg[] = {<br />
+ 0x05, 0x10, 0x00, 0x00, 0x0a, 0x00, 0x0f, 0xff,<br />
+ 0x6e, 0xb8, 0x83, 0xfe, 0x02, 0x00, 0x00, 0x0d,<br />
+ 0x00, 0x1f, 0x90, 0x00, 0x04,<br />
+ };<br />
<br />
/** Control tuner enable */<br />
error = Standard_writeRegisterBits (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpiot2_o, reg_top_gpiot2_o_pos, reg_top_gpiot2_o_len, 1);<br />
@@ -47,11 +53,16 @@ Dword FC0012_open (<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
<br />
/** Control pin diode **/<br />
- error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_on, 1);<br />
+ error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_en, 1);<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
<br />
- error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_en, 1);<br />
+ error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_on, 1);<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
+<br />
+ for (i=0; i&lt;sizeof(reg)/sizeof(reg[0]); i++) {<br />
+ error = Standard_writeTunerRegisters (demodulator, chip, i+1, 1, &amp;reg[i]);<br />
+ if (error) goto exit;<br />
+ }<br />
exit:<br />
return (error);<br />
}<br />
--- a/api/Fitipower_FC0012_Script.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/Fitipower_FC0012_Script.h 2011-08-13 16:53:41.984092888 +0200<br />
@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@<br />
#define VERSION4 0<br />
<br />
<br />
-#define FC0012_ADDRESS 0xC0<br />
+#define FC0012_ADDRESS 0xC6<br />
#define FC0012_SCRIPTSETLENGTH 0x00000001<br />
<br />
Word FC0012_scriptSets[] = {<br />
--- a/api/user.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/user.h 2011-08-10 22:21:31.192856393 +0200<br />
@@ -22,7 +22,7 @@<br />
#define User_I2C_SPEED 0x07<br />
<br />
/** Define I2C address of secondary chip when Diversity mode or PIP mode is active. */<br />
-#define User_I2C_ADDRESS 0x38<br />
+#define User_I2C_ADDRESS 0x3a<br />
<br />
/** Define USB frame size */<br />
#define User_USB20_MAX_PACKET_SIZE 512<br />
<br />
After that, continue with the instructions in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:DVB-T USB Devices]]<br />
<br />
== CAPTURES USB VC-211A AND TERRATEC CINERGY 200 ==<br />
<br />
The devices USB Model VC-211A, which can be found with the logos of ACTionMaster, Digitus or LinXcel, were added as card = 74 in cardlist of the em28xx driver at November 26, 2009, by the developer Mauro Chehab. These devices are erroneously recognized by the command &quot;lsusb&quot; as:<br />
<br />
Bus 001 Device 002: ID eb1a:2800 eMPIA Technology, Inc. Terratec Cinergy 200<br />
<br />
But they are simpler.Besides not having audio processor, are devoid of tuner and EEPROM. And why not have EEPROM, the driver v4l2 needs editing a file *. conf to recognize it and set it up correctly as CARD = 74 (VC-211A - ACTionMaster, or LinXcel Digitus). This can be done in the console as follows:<br />
<br />
$ sudo gedit /etc/modprobe.d/captura.conf $ Sudo gedit / etc / modprobe.d / captura.conf<br />
<br />
In this file, you must edit and save with the following parameters:<br />
<br />
options em28xx card=6 core_debug=1 options em28xx card = 6 core_debug = 1<br />
<br />
Obviously, until that amendment to em28xx kernel is integrated into the various Linux distributions that use v4l2, the user that have a VC-211A should download the tree v4l2 and compile the driver as guides on page How_to_Obtain, _Build_and_Install_V4L-DVB_Device_Drivers.<br />
<br />
Before this change, the resolution of 720x480 required by v4l2 version 0.1.2 was not compatible with the captors VC-211A and older ones, since they only work with 640x480. This error generated a loss of data causing the captured image does not exceed the maximum of 360x240. This whole problem has been corrected by the master Mauro Chehab, which is worthy of respect and gratitude of the entire Linux community and especially the fans for the video capture.<br />
<br />
We take this opportunity to give our thanks to all those who have worked directly or indirectly in the developed project video4linux.<br />
<br />
This is a linux supported dvb t2 dual stick.<br />
<br />
By Raymond Eduvirgens<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_front|right|thumb|200px|Front of the Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD]]<br />
<br />
A Terratec DVB-T USB stick. <br />
<br />
==Overview/Features==<br />
<br />
* USB 2 interface<br />
* Inputs: Antenna (Composite), Remote (untested)<br />
<br />
===Components Used===<br />
''List the hardware ICs and modules used by the device here. For example:''&lt;br&gt;<br />
* [[E4000]] (tuner)<br />
* [[RTL2832U ]]<br />
<br />
===Other Images===<br />
''Use the included code to insert other images if necessary. Add as many high resolution pictures as you can i.e the card, the original box, the remote and, when uploading the files to the wiki, give them detailed specific names. Note: only use images taken by yourself or those 3rd party images for which you have received express written consent (such as from a vendor) that permits their usage. For example:''&lt;br&gt;<br />
&lt;gallery perrow=5&gt;<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_back.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Back<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box1.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box2.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box3.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
&lt;/gallery&gt;<br />
[[File:Uusi.jpg]]<br />
===Identification===<br />
# lsusb -v<br />
[...]<br />
Bus 002 Device 002: ID 0ccd:00d3 TerraTec Electronic GmbH<br />
Device Descriptor:<br />
bLength 18<br />
bDescriptorType 1<br />
bcdUSB 2.00<br />
bDeviceClass 0 (Defined at Interface level)<br />
bDeviceSubClass 0<br />
bDeviceProtocol 0<br />
bMaxPacketSize0 64<br />
idVendor 0x0ccd TerraTec Electronic GmbH<br />
idProduct 0x00d3<br />
bcdDevice 1.00<br />
iManufacturer 1 Realtek<br />
iProduct 2 RTL2838UHIDIR<br />
iSerial 3 00000001<br />
bNumConfigurations 1<br />
Configuration Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 2<br />
wTotalLength 34<br />
bNumInterfaces 2<br />
bConfigurationValue 1<br />
iConfiguration 4 USB2.0-Bulk&amp;Iso<br />
bmAttributes 0x80<br />
(Bus Powered)<br />
MaxPower 500mA<br />
Interface Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 4<br />
bInterfaceNumber 0<br />
bAlternateSetting 0<br />
bNumEndpoints 1<br />
bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class<br />
bInterfaceSubClass 255 Vendor Specific Subclass<br />
bInterfaceProtocol 255 Vendor Specific Protocol<br />
iInterface 5 Bulk-In, Interface<br />
Endpoint Descriptor:<br />
bLength 7<br />
bDescriptorType 5<br />
bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN<br />
bmAttributes 2<br />
Transfer Type Bulk<br />
Synch Type None<br />
Usage Type Data<br />
wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes<br />
bInterval 0<br />
Interface Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 4<br />
bInterfaceNumber 1<br />
bAlternateSetting 0<br />
bNumEndpoints 0<br />
bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class<br />
bInterfaceSubClass 255 Vendor Specific Subclass<br />
bInterfaceProtocol 255 Vendor Specific Protocol<br />
iInterface 5 Bulk-In, Interface<br />
Device Qualifier (for other device speed):<br />
bLength 10<br />
bDescriptorType 6<br />
bcdUSB 2.00<br />
bDeviceClass 0 (Defined at Interface level)<br />
bDeviceSubClass 0<br />
bDeviceProtocol 0<br />
bMaxPacketSize0 64<br />
bNumConfigurations 2<br />
Device Status: 0x0000<br />
(Bus Powered)<br />
[...]<br />
<br />
==Making it Work==<br />
<br />
The Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD works with [Ambosa's RTL2832U driver|https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/]<br />
It won't find any channel with the included antenna, but when connected to<br />
the aerial outlet (building antenna) it works fine with occassional square noise<br />
or very short cuts (maybe more often in HD channels ???).<br />
<br />
Can't test very often, because it's at a friend's, not mine.<br />
<br />
I haven't found an email address to tell Ambrosa and I don't have <br />
a GitHub account, maybe someone who has can send a link to the GitHub forum?<br />
<br />
The system I tested is a Debian squeeze, with a custom compiled linux-libre 3.2.1.<br />
<br />
I followed<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/blob/master/README]<br />
<br />
(except I used<br />
KBUILD_SRC=/home/[...]/linux-3.2.1 make<br />
instead of<br />
make <br />
) and applied the following patch (simply add the vendor and device ids )<br />
<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
index b4fec9a..4816f69 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
@@ -4,10 +4,10 @@<br />
# Choose here wich include file to use: from kernel 3.0.0 (good for 3.1.0) or from kernel 3.2.0<br />
<br />
# kernel 3.0.0 / 3.1.0<br />
-INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-300<br />
+#INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-300<br />
<br />
# kernel 3.2.0<br />
-#INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-320<br />
+INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-320<br />
<br />
# ----------------------------------------<br />
<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
index 6e7eac0..1ed364c 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
@@ -785,6 +785,7 @@ static struct usb_device_id rtl2832u_usb_table [] = {<br />
<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00A9)}, // 29<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00B3)}, // 30<br />
+ { USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00D3)}, // 30<br />
<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2, USB_PID_AZUREWAVE_3234) }, // 31<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2, USB_PID_AZUREWAVE_3274) }, // 32<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
index a6b5d77..3a09485 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
@@ -47,6 +47,7 @@<br />
#endif<br />
#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00A9 0x00A9<br />
#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00B3 0x00B3<br />
+#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00D3 0x00D3<br />
<br />
#ifndef USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2<br />
#define USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2 0x13D3<br />
<br />
<br />
===Firmware===<br />
<br />
I haven't copied any firmware and I doubt linux-libre would have<br />
loaded it. I think it works without any firmware file.<br />
Didn't check if there is any firmware somehow embedded in the<br />
source I compiled or it's simply shipped already on the usb stick.<br />
<br />
===Drivers===<br />
<br />
[Ambosa's RTL2832U driver|https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/]<br />
modified with the vendor and device Id.<br />
<br />
It says GPL but I haven't researched the source, authorship attributions or changelog.<br />
<br />
===Sample Kernel Output===<br />
<br />
# dmesg<br />
[...]<br />
[ 5.465403] USB Video Class driver (1.1.1)<br />
[ 5.604042] usb 2-3: new high-speed USB device number 2 using ehci_hcd<br />
[ 5.748596] usb 2-3: New USB device found, idVendor=0ccd, idProduct=00d3<br />
[ 5.748599] usb 2-3: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 5.748602] usb 2-3: Product: RTL2838UHIDIR<br />
[ 5.748603] usb 2-3: Manufacturer: Realtek<br />
[ 5.748605] usb 2-3: SerialNumber: 00000001<br />
[ 5.760898] IR NEC protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.762107] IR RC5(x) protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.763207] IR RC6 protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.765032] Disabling lock debugging due to kernel taint<br />
[ 5.765306] IR JVC protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.766439] dvb-usb: found a 'USB DVB-T Device' in warm state.<br />
[ 5.766446] dvb-usb: will pass the complete MPEG2 transport stream to the sof<br />
tware demuxer.<br />
[ 5.767470] IR Sony protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.768708] IR MCE Keyboard/mouse protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.768847] DVB: registering new adapter (USB DVB-T Device)<br />
[ 5.770281] lirc_dev: IR Remote Control driver registered, major 252<br />
[ 5.770635] IR LIRC bridge handler initialized<br />
[ 5.783837] RTL2832U usb_init_bulk_setting : USB2.0 HIGH SPEED (480Mb/s)<br />
[ 6.024032] usb 3-3: new low-speed USB device number 2 using ohci_hcd<br />
[ 6.024058] RTL2832U check_tuner_type : E4000 tuner on board...<br />
[...]<br />
<br />
===Remote Control Support===<br />
<br />
Untested.<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
<br />
* [http://linux.terratec.de/tv_en.html Terratec linux support page says unsupported yet]<br />
* [http://knc1.de/d/produkte/digital_dvb_s2_twin.htm TV-Station DVB-S2 Twin]<br />
<br />
[[Category: DVB-S2 PCI Cards]]<br />
[[Category: DVB-T USB Devices]]</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/LinuxTVWiki:SandboxLinuxTVWiki:Sandbox2013-03-20T07:32:31Z<p>Faabio: </p>
<hr />
<div>= TerraTec T6 Dual DVB-T stick =<br />
<br />
It consists of<br />
* Afatech AF9035B-N2 USB Interface with included AF9033 Demodulator<br />
* Afatech AF9033B-N2 second Demodulator<br />
* Fitipower FC0012 Tuner (2 off)<br />
<br />
This device is currently not officially supported by Linux, however it is possible to get this device working using a slightly patched version of the AF9035 driver as used in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
== Instruction how to get the stick working ==<br />
<br />
Follow the instruction to get the AF903x source code archive '''AF903x.tar.gz''' in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
I run kernel 3.0.1 and therefore I needed a few patched just to get the source code compiled (you may not need all of them, but they shouldn't hurt either):<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x.h 2011-08-13 16:49:49.799506005 +0200<br />
@@ -9,7 +9,6 @@<br />
#include &lt;linux/slab.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/module.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/kref.h&gt;<br />
-#include &lt;linux/smp_lock.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/usb.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;asm/uaccess.h&gt;<br />
#include &quot;dvb-usb.h&quot;<br />
--- a/src/userdef.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/userdef.h 2011-08-01 22:56:02.626583791 +0200<br />
@@ -8,7 +8,9 @@<br />
typedef int INT; // 4 bytes<br />
//typedef void * HANDLE; <br />
<br />
+#ifndef NULL<br />
#define NULL 0<br />
+#endif<br />
<br />
#ifdef IN<br />
#undef IN<br />
--- a/api/type.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/type.h 2011-08-01 22:54:38.197342415 +0200<br />
@@ -3,6 +3,15 @@<br />
<br />
#include &quot;userdef.h&quot;// for Linux<br />
<br />
+#ifdef IN<br />
+#undef IN<br />
+#endif<br />
+#ifdef OUT<br />
+#undef OUT<br />
+#endif<br />
+#ifdef INOUT<br />
+#undef INOUT<br />
+#endif<br />
#define IN<br />
#define OUT<br />
#define INOUT<br />
--- a/api/usb2impl.c 2011-02-15 11:12:59.000000000 +0100<br />
+++ b/api/usb2impl.c 2011-08-01 21:59:17.635389432 +0200<br />
@@ -6,7 +6,6 @@<br />
#include &lt;linux/slab.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/module.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/kref.h&gt;<br />
-#include &lt;linux/smp_lock.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/usb.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;asm/uaccess.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;linux/device.h&gt;<br />
<br />
Then, here are some bug fixes to prevent deadlocks of the mutexes:<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x-drv.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x-drv.c 2011-08-12 21:26:10.610770606 +0200<br />
@@ -1075,7 +1075,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
<br />
if(PDC-&gt;architecture != Architecture_PIP)<br />
{<br />
- if ( PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; bOn) dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
+ if ( PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; bOn) dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
<br />
for (i=0; i&lt;PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber; i++)<br />
{<br />
@@ -1091,7 +1091,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
- if(PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; !bOn) dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
+ if(PDC-&gt;Demodulator.chipNumber == 2 &amp;&amp; !bOn) dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
}<br />
else<br />
{<br />
@@ -1100,7 +1100,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
PDC-&gt;fc[ucSlaveDemod].GraphBuilt = 1;<br />
<br />
if (PDC-&gt;fc[0].GraphBuilt == 0 || PDC-&gt;fc[1].GraphBuilt == 0)<br />
- dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
+ dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, false);<br />
<br />
dwError = DRV_ApCtrl (PDC, ucSlaveDemod, bOn);<br />
}<br />
@@ -1112,7 +1112,7 @@ DWORD DL_ApCtrl (<br />
if (PDC-&gt;bTunerPowerOff != true) dwError = DRV_ApCtrl (PDC, ucSlaveDemod, bOn);<br />
<br />
if (PDC-&gt;fc[0].GraphBuilt == 0 &amp;&amp; PDC-&gt;fc[1].GraphBuilt == 0 &amp;&amp; PDC-&gt;bTunerPowerOff == true)<br />
- dwError = DL_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
+ dwError = DRV_NIMSuspend(PDC, true);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
And finally, the patches to support the TerraTec T6 Dual DVB-T stick:<br />
<br />
--- a/src/af903x-devices.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/src/af903x-devices.c 2011-08-01 22:06:08.118919600 +0200<br />
@@ -127,6 +127,7 @@ struct usb_device_id af903x_usb_id_table<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x1002) },<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x1003) },<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(0x15A4,0x9035) },<br />
+ { USB_DEVICE(0x0ccd,0x10b3) }, /* Terratec T6 */<br />
{ 0}, /* Terminating entry */<br />
};<br />
MODULE_DEVICE_TABLE(usb, af903x_usb_id_table);<br />
@@ -156,7 +157,7 @@ struct dvb_usb_device_properties af903x_<br />
}<br />
},<br />
#else<br />
- .num_adapters = 1,<br />
+ .num_adapters = 2,<br />
.adapter = {<br />
{<br />
.caps = DVB_USB_ADAP_HAS_PID_FILTER | DVB_USB_ADAP_PID_FILTER_CAN_BE_TURNED_OFF,<br />
@@ -198,13 +199,17 @@ struct dvb_usb_device_properties af903x_<br />
},<br />
},<br />
#endif<br />
- .num_device_descs =1,<br />
+ .num_device_descs =2,<br />
.devices = {<br />
{ &quot;ITEtech USB2.0 DVB-T Recevier&quot;,<br />
{ &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[0], &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[1],&amp;af903x_usb_id_table[2],<br />
&amp;af903x_usb_id_table[3], &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[4], NULL},<br />
{ NULL },<br />
},<br />
+ { &quot;Terratec T6&quot;,<br />
+ { &amp;af903x_usb_id_table[5], NULL},<br />
+ { NULL },<br />
+ },<br />
{NULL},<br />
<br />
}<br />
--- a/api/Fitipower_FC0012.c 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/Fitipower_FC0012.c 2011-08-11 22:54:23.390763425 +0200<br />
@@ -35,6 +35,12 @@ Dword FC0012_open (<br />
IN Byte chip<br />
) {<br />
Dword error = Error_NO_ERROR;<br />
+ int i;<br />
+ Byte reg[] = {<br />
+ 0x05, 0x10, 0x00, 0x00, 0x0a, 0x00, 0x0f, 0xff,<br />
+ 0x6e, 0xb8, 0x83, 0xfe, 0x02, 0x00, 0x00, 0x0d,<br />
+ 0x00, 0x1f, 0x90, 0x00, 0x04,<br />
+ };<br />
<br />
/** Control tuner enable */<br />
error = Standard_writeRegisterBits (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpiot2_o, reg_top_gpiot2_o_pos, reg_top_gpiot2_o_len, 1);<br />
@@ -47,11 +53,16 @@ Dword FC0012_open (<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
<br />
/** Control pin diode **/<br />
- error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_on, 1);<br />
+ error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_en, 1);<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
<br />
- error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_en, 1);<br />
+ error = Standard_writeRegister (demodulator, chip, Processor_LINK, p_reg_top_gpioh8_on, 1);<br />
if (error) goto exit;<br />
+<br />
+ for (i=0; i&lt;sizeof(reg)/sizeof(reg[0]); i++) {<br />
+ error = Standard_writeTunerRegisters (demodulator, chip, i+1, 1, &amp;reg[i]);<br />
+ if (error) goto exit;<br />
+ }<br />
exit:<br />
return (error);<br />
}<br />
--- a/api/Fitipower_FC0012_Script.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/Fitipower_FC0012_Script.h 2011-08-13 16:53:41.984092888 +0200<br />
@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@<br />
#define VERSION4 0<br />
<br />
<br />
-#define FC0012_ADDRESS 0xC0<br />
+#define FC0012_ADDRESS 0xC6<br />
#define FC0012_SCRIPTSETLENGTH 0x00000001<br />
<br />
Word FC0012_scriptSets[] = {<br />
--- a/api/user.h 2009-08-14 16:17:10.000000000 +0200<br />
+++ b/api/user.h 2011-08-10 22:21:31.192856393 +0200<br />
@@ -22,7 +22,7 @@<br />
#define User_I2C_SPEED 0x07<br />
<br />
/** Define I2C address of secondary chip when Diversity mode or PIP mode is active. */<br />
-#define User_I2C_ADDRESS 0x38<br />
+#define User_I2C_ADDRESS 0x3a<br />
<br />
/** Define USB frame size */<br />
#define User_USB20_MAX_PACKET_SIZE 512<br />
<br />
After that, continue with the instructions in [[EzCap_DVB_T_Stick]].<br />
<br />
[[Category:DVB-T USB Devices]]<br />
<br />
== CAPTURES USB VC-211A AND TERRATEC CINERGY 200 ==<br />
<br />
The devices USB Model VC-211A, which can be found with the logos of ACTionMaster, Digitus or LinXcel, were added as card = 74 in cardlist of the em28xx driver at November 26, 2009, by the developer Mauro Chehab. These devices are erroneously recognized by the command &quot;lsusb&quot; as:<br />
<br />
Bus 001 Device 002: ID eb1a:2800 eMPIA Technology, Inc. Terratec Cinergy 200<br />
<br />
But they are simpler.Besides not having audio processor, are devoid of tuner and EEPROM. And why not have EEPROM, the driver v4l2 needs editing a file *. conf to recognize it and set it up correctly as CARD = 74 (VC-211A - ACTionMaster, or LinXcel Digitus). This can be done in the console as follows:<br />
<br />
$ sudo gedit /etc/modprobe.d/captura.conf $ Sudo gedit / etc / modprobe.d / captura.conf<br />
<br />
In this file, you must edit and save with the following parameters:<br />
<br />
options em28xx card=6 core_debug=1 options em28xx card = 6 core_debug = 1<br />
<br />
Obviously, until that amendment to em28xx kernel is integrated into the various Linux distributions that use v4l2, the user that have a VC-211A should download the tree v4l2 and compile the driver as guides on page How_to_Obtain, _Build_and_Install_V4L-DVB_Device_Drivers.<br />
<br />
Before this change, the resolution of 720x480 required by v4l2 version 0.1.2 was not compatible with the captors VC-211A and older ones, since they only work with 640x480. This error generated a loss of data causing the captured image does not exceed the maximum of 360x240. This whole problem has been corrected by the master Mauro Chehab, which is worthy of respect and gratitude of the entire Linux community and especially the fans for the video capture.<br />
<br />
We take this opportunity to give our thanks to all those who have worked directly or indirectly in the developed project video4linux.<br />
<br />
This is a linux supported dvb t2 dual stick.<br />
<br />
By Raymond Eduvirgens<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_front|right|thumb|200px|Front of the Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD]]<br />
<br />
A Terratec DVB-T USB stick. <br />
<br />
==Overview/Features==<br />
<br />
* USB 2 interface<br />
* Inputs: Antenna (Composite), Remote (untested)<br />
<br />
===Components Used===<br />
''List the hardware ICs and modules used by the device here. For example:''&lt;br&gt;<br />
* [[E4000]] (tuner)<br />
* [[RTL2832U ]]<br />
<br />
===Other Images===<br />
''Use the included code to insert other images if necessary. Add as many high resolution pictures as you can i.e the card, the original box, the remote and, when uploading the files to the wiki, give them detailed specific names. Note: only use images taken by yourself or those 3rd party images for which you have received express written consent (such as from a vendor) that permits their usage. For example:''&lt;br&gt;<br />
&lt;gallery perrow=5&gt;<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_back.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Back<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box1.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box2.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
Image:Terratec_Cinergy_T_USB_RC_HD_box3.jpg|Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD Box<br />
&lt;/gallery&gt;<br />
[[File:Pakara.jpg]]<br />
===Identification===<br />
# lsusb -v<br />
[...]<br />
Bus 002 Device 002: ID 0ccd:00d3 TerraTec Electronic GmbH<br />
Device Descriptor:<br />
bLength 18<br />
bDescriptorType 1<br />
bcdUSB 2.00<br />
bDeviceClass 0 (Defined at Interface level)<br />
bDeviceSubClass 0<br />
bDeviceProtocol 0<br />
bMaxPacketSize0 64<br />
idVendor 0x0ccd TerraTec Electronic GmbH<br />
idProduct 0x00d3<br />
bcdDevice 1.00<br />
iManufacturer 1 Realtek<br />
iProduct 2 RTL2838UHIDIR<br />
iSerial 3 00000001<br />
bNumConfigurations 1<br />
Configuration Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 2<br />
wTotalLength 34<br />
bNumInterfaces 2<br />
bConfigurationValue 1<br />
iConfiguration 4 USB2.0-Bulk&amp;Iso<br />
bmAttributes 0x80<br />
(Bus Powered)<br />
MaxPower 500mA<br />
Interface Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 4<br />
bInterfaceNumber 0<br />
bAlternateSetting 0<br />
bNumEndpoints 1<br />
bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class<br />
bInterfaceSubClass 255 Vendor Specific Subclass<br />
bInterfaceProtocol 255 Vendor Specific Protocol<br />
iInterface 5 Bulk-In, Interface<br />
Endpoint Descriptor:<br />
bLength 7<br />
bDescriptorType 5<br />
bEndpointAddress 0x81 EP 1 IN<br />
bmAttributes 2<br />
Transfer Type Bulk<br />
Synch Type None<br />
Usage Type Data<br />
wMaxPacketSize 0x0200 1x 512 bytes<br />
bInterval 0<br />
Interface Descriptor:<br />
bLength 9<br />
bDescriptorType 4<br />
bInterfaceNumber 1<br />
bAlternateSetting 0<br />
bNumEndpoints 0<br />
bInterfaceClass 255 Vendor Specific Class<br />
bInterfaceSubClass 255 Vendor Specific Subclass<br />
bInterfaceProtocol 255 Vendor Specific Protocol<br />
iInterface 5 Bulk-In, Interface<br />
Device Qualifier (for other device speed):<br />
bLength 10<br />
bDescriptorType 6<br />
bcdUSB 2.00<br />
bDeviceClass 0 (Defined at Interface level)<br />
bDeviceSubClass 0<br />
bDeviceProtocol 0<br />
bMaxPacketSize0 64<br />
bNumConfigurations 2<br />
Device Status: 0x0000<br />
(Bus Powered)<br />
[...]<br />
<br />
==Making it Work==<br />
<br />
The Terratec Cinergy TStick RC HD works with [Ambosa's RTL2832U driver|https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/]<br />
It won't find any channel with the included antenna, but when connected to<br />
the aerial outlet (building antenna) it works fine with occassional square noise<br />
or very short cuts (maybe more often in HD channels ???).<br />
<br />
Can't test very often, because it's at a friend's, not mine.<br />
<br />
I haven't found an email address to tell Ambrosa and I don't have <br />
a GitHub account, maybe someone who has can send a link to the GitHub forum?<br />
<br />
The system I tested is a Debian squeeze, with a custom compiled linux-libre 3.2.1.<br />
<br />
I followed<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/blob/master/README]<br />
<br />
(except I used<br />
KBUILD_SRC=/home/[...]/linux-3.2.1 make<br />
instead of<br />
make <br />
) and applied the following patch (simply add the vendor and device ids )<br />
<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
index b4fec9a..4816f69 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/Makefile<br />
@@ -4,10 +4,10 @@<br />
# Choose here wich include file to use: from kernel 3.0.0 (good for 3.1.0) or from kernel 3.2.0<br />
<br />
# kernel 3.0.0 / 3.1.0<br />
-INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-300<br />
+#INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-300<br />
<br />
# kernel 3.2.0<br />
-#INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-320<br />
+INCLUDE_EXTRA_DVB := include-320<br />
<br />
# ----------------------------------------<br />
<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
index 6e7eac0..1ed364c 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.c<br />
@@ -785,6 +785,7 @@ static struct usb_device_id rtl2832u_usb_table [] = {<br />
<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00A9)}, // 29<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00B3)}, // 30<br />
+ { USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_TERRATEC, USB_PID_TERRATEC_00D3)}, // 30<br />
<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2, USB_PID_AZUREWAVE_3234) }, // 31<br />
{ USB_DEVICE(USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2, USB_PID_AZUREWAVE_3274) }, // 32<br />
diff --git a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
index a6b5d77..3a09485 100644<br />
--- a/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
+++ b/RTL2832-2.2.2_kernel-3.0.0/rtl2832u.h<br />
@@ -47,6 +47,7 @@<br />
#endif<br />
#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00A9 0x00A9<br />
#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00B3 0x00B3<br />
+#define USB_PID_TERRATEC_00D3 0x00D3<br />
<br />
#ifndef USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2<br />
#define USB_VID_AZUREWAVE_2 0x13D3<br />
<br />
<br />
===Firmware===<br />
<br />
I haven't copied any firmware and I doubt linux-libre would have<br />
loaded it. I think it works without any firmware file.<br />
Didn't check if there is any firmware somehow embedded in the<br />
source I compiled or it's simply shipped already on the usb stick.<br />
<br />
===Drivers===<br />
<br />
[Ambosa's RTL2832U driver|https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0/]<br />
modified with the vendor and device Id.<br />
<br />
It says GPL but I haven't researched the source, authorship attributions or changelog.<br />
<br />
===Sample Kernel Output===<br />
<br />
# dmesg<br />
[...]<br />
[ 5.465403] USB Video Class driver (1.1.1)<br />
[ 5.604042] usb 2-3: new high-speed USB device number 2 using ehci_hcd<br />
[ 5.748596] usb 2-3: New USB device found, idVendor=0ccd, idProduct=00d3<br />
[ 5.748599] usb 2-3: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 5.748602] usb 2-3: Product: RTL2838UHIDIR<br />
[ 5.748603] usb 2-3: Manufacturer: Realtek<br />
[ 5.748605] usb 2-3: SerialNumber: 00000001<br />
[ 5.760898] IR NEC protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.762107] IR RC5(x) protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.763207] IR RC6 protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.765032] Disabling lock debugging due to kernel taint<br />
[ 5.765306] IR JVC protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.766439] dvb-usb: found a 'USB DVB-T Device' in warm state.<br />
[ 5.766446] dvb-usb: will pass the complete MPEG2 transport stream to the sof<br />
tware demuxer.<br />
[ 5.767470] IR Sony protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.768708] IR MCE Keyboard/mouse protocol handler initialized<br />
[ 5.768847] DVB: registering new adapter (USB DVB-T Device)<br />
[ 5.770281] lirc_dev: IR Remote Control driver registered, major 252<br />
[ 5.770635] IR LIRC bridge handler initialized<br />
[ 5.783837] RTL2832U usb_init_bulk_setting : USB2.0 HIGH SPEED (480Mb/s)<br />
[ 6.024032] usb 3-3: new low-speed USB device number 2 using ohci_hcd<br />
[ 6.024058] RTL2832U check_tuner_type : E4000 tuner on board...<br />
[...]<br />
<br />
===Remote Control Support===<br />
<br />
Untested.<br />
<br />
==External Links==<br />
<br />
* [http://linux.terratec.de/tv_en.html Terratec linux support page says unsupported yet]<br />
* [http://knc1.de/d/produkte/digital_dvb_s2_twin.htm TV-Station DVB-S2 Twin]<br />
<br />
[[Category: DVB-S2 PCI Cards]]<br />
[[Category: DVB-T USB Devices]]</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Shielded_Loop_Antenna_/_Yagi-Uda_array_of_loopsShielded Loop Antenna / Yagi-Uda array of loops2013-03-20T06:54:40Z<p>Faabio: </p>
<hr />
<div>It is plenty of article on home builds antenna onto the internet. Most of them are for antenna that can work for both emission and reception.<br />
<br />
We will see here two different designs for reception into the FM and TV band. Those 2 designs are using the same base type of antenna: the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loop_antenna loop antenna].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Shielded loop ===<br />
A crude representation of a shielded loop:<br />
[[File:Shielded_loop.png]]<br />
<br />
The principle is the same than for a loop. From wikipedia: a continuous conducting path leading from one conductor of a two-wire transmission line to the other conductor. All planar loops are directional antennas with a sharp null, and have a radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna with E and H fields interchanged.<br />
<br />
The main advantages of loops antenna are tree:<br />
<br />
1) An outstanding signal quality. It is a simple design that perform very well.<br />
<br />
2) For large loops, higher gain (about 10%) than the other forms.<br />
<br />
3) Large loop antennas are less susceptible to localized noise, partly due to their lack of a need for a groundplane.<br />
<br />
The advantage of a shielded loop over a non shielded one:<br />
<br />
4) The electric interference from the big city (streetlights, television's , cars etc...) have no influence on the received signal.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
Like we will not perform emission, any good quality coaxial cable may be used to realize such an antenna. Critical to correctly design this antenna is the wavelength of the program you want to receive best.<br />
<br />
Less critical but important is the capacitance of the coaxial cable. The circumference of the loop will be equal to the wavelenght, and that capacitance is not negligible. In practice, any good coaxial cable for TV installation will do the job. <br />
<br />
My first concern with this antenna was the FM band, because I was completely unable to receive my favorite radio program on 93.8 MHz where I am living.<br />
<br />
'''Wavelength [meter] = 300 / frequency [MMHz]'''<br />
<br />
For 93.8 MHz, we have 300 / 93.8 = 3.198 meters.<br />
<br />
According to the Balanis (Antenna Theory: Analysis and Design, by Constantine A. Balanis, it is better to use a little bigger circle. (Read the book for the details.)<br />
<br />
'''Antenna circumference = 1.1 * wavelength''' = 1.1 * 3.198 = 3.518 meters.<br />
<br />
So, we need 3.52 meters of coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
For the realization, it is up to you. Metal will not work because it will interfere with the antenna. Plastic or wood are best. The best design is one that will approach a perfect circle, like a bicycle wheel. <br />
<br />
I made mine with one vertical stick of wood and 6 smaller sticks of the same wood. I made small holes at the extremity of each stick in order to be able to attach the coaxial there. I used 2 more little pieces of wood at the center of this wheel in order to fix the sticks.<br />
<br />
We also need to cut 1 cm of the shield at the top of the antenna. The center wire must be left intact. This is very important, otherwise the antenna will be a shield, and not an antenna. Use a cutter or a good knife.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
If you look at the antenna representation, we have 2 signals wires and the ground. It is several possibility, the simplest is to use one antenna coupler. They are such antenna coupler into the market with one coaxial socket at one end (for the antenna cable) and 2 symmetrical connections at the other end. They are made to connect an antenna installation to a receiver.<br />
<br />
It is 2 variants of them.<br />
<br />
Radio variant: one connection for AM, one connection for FM.<br />
<br />
TV variant: One connection for band 1 to 3 (VHF low, FM, VHF high), one connection for band 4 and 5 (UHF).<br />
<br />
The radio variant is the easiest to find, but the TV variant is more versatile.<br />
<br />
It is a third variant, an universal 300 ohms to 75 ohms coupler. It only have 2 connectors, one symmetrical 300 ohms and one assymetrical 75 ohms.<br />
<br />
When you have such a coupler, it is just to wire the 2 signal wires into the socket you want to use, and to wire the antenna ground to the ground of the coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I am finally able to listen to 93.8 FM. It was necessary to put the antenna outdoor. I even can get the stereo, but with a lot of noise. But mono is fine. And all the other stations are working fine.<br />
<br />
I also can get the digital TV on the UHF band with this antenna, and that without changing anything to the antenna or the coupling.<br />
<br />
==== Example ====<br />
This is an antenna which took 15 minutes to make with instructions above. My television broadcast is in 600MHz and 610MHz, so calculated loop diameter is 300/600=0,5m. Coaxial cable length is about 0,55m. I'm not sure of the coaxial type, but it is common from local store. I welded the loop to the input coaxial cable. <br />
Before with similar but unshielded loop antenna I got heavy interference from traffic, moving elevator or some random sources. It seems now that all that is gone. Also signal level went from 55% to 70%. Thank you for the original instructions!<br />
[[File:shielded_loop.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Yagi-Uda array of loops ===<br />
The Yagi-Uda array of loops will outperform any commercial TV antenna. It will be compact, provide a high gain and a good signal quality. It is possible to make it to work at very high frequencies, as well than at relatively low frequencies, at the price of a huge size in this last case. But in all cases, it will be more compact for the same gain than a commercial Yagi made with a dipole and some kind of reflectors and directors.<br />
<br />
The downside is that it will not be a broadband antenna. If you want to cover the whole UHF TV band, 2 or 3 antennas of different sizes can be necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, in situation with sharp reflexivity, other design will work better like the panel antenna EE06 from wisi, that both for analog and digital TV. That say, it would be interesting to compare those 2 antenna design in high reflexivity situation, I never made this test and will maybe be surprised by the result. Anyway, panel antennas outperform the classical Yagi in term of signal quality in such conditions.<br />
<br />
All the Yagi-Uda, Yagi in short, are made of an active element (a dipole in most cases), a reflector (some kind of panel in most cases) and an ensemble of directors (some kind of sticks in most cases). The particularity of the Yagi-Uda array of loops is that this antenna will use loops (again!) for all its elements.<br />
<br />
[[File:Yagy-Uda.png]]<br />
<br />
==== Calculation ====<br />
I made, it was some time ago when I was living in Sweden, a spreadsheet that help to calculate such antennas. You can visit my new [http://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi fourre-tout], or download it direct at [https://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi/antennes/Antennemulticadres.gnumeric?attredirects=0 Antennemulticadres.gnumeric]<br />
<br />
It is only in French now, but I will translate it soon in English.<br />
<br />
All that is needed is to change the frequency and the number of elements in order to suit your need.<br />
<br />
This spreadsheet does not perform gain calculation. The reason is simple: a realistic gain calculation for such an antenna is far too complicated for a spreadsheet. In practice, a 5 elements antenna (an antenna with one reflector, the active element and 3 directors) will be enough in many cases.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
No rules here, use your imagination, you are on your own.<br />
<br />
Some general considerations: <br />
- the elements must be made of some kind of conducting material: copper, aluminum, coaxial cable are best suited. With coaxial cable, we can use only the shield or connect the shield with the inner conductor.<br />
<br />
- the horizontal stick can be made of anything and can be placed anywhere, so long than it takes up the various elements. If it is made of conducting material, the elements must be isolated from the stick.<br />
<br />
- the distance between the reflector and the active element is very critical. It determine most of the impedance of the antenna as well than other characteristic.<br />
<br />
- all the elements are circles, and their center must be on the same line.<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
All we need is some kind of 300 ohms to 75 ohms antenna coupler. Some models are costing less than 1 $.<br />
<br />
The active element is coupled to the coupler by its 2 extremity on the 300 ohms symmetrical side of the coupler. Made those connections as short as possible.<br />
<br />
The coaxial antenna cable is connected to the other side of the coupler.<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I made one such antenna in Malmö, Sweden. I made it from sticks of wood and pieces of coaxial cable. With a 5 elements antenna, I was able to receive all the TV channels but one that was in black and white with a lot of noise (analog TV). The antenna was calculated for this channel.<br />
<br />
After expanding the number of elements to 19, I was able to receive all the channels in color and without noise. This 19 elements was outperforming by 2 dB a wisi EB66, one of the better high gain UHF antenna on the market, that on the frequency the antenna was designed for. I am sure that with a better mechanical design (use of copper instead of coaxial cable), the result would have been even better.<br />
<br />
As expected, the gain of the antenna in its 19 elements version was decreasing fast when the channel frequency was decreasing or increasing from the antenna central frequency.</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Shielded_Loop_Antenna_/_Yagi-Uda_array_of_loopsShielded Loop Antenna / Yagi-Uda array of loops2013-03-20T06:52:46Z<p>Faabio: </p>
<hr />
<div>It is plenty of article on home builds antenna onto the internet. Most of them are for antenna that can work for both emission and reception.<br />
<br />
We will see here two different designs for reception into the FM and TV band. Those 2 designs are using the same base type of antenna: the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loop_antenna loop antenna].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Shielded loop ===<br />
A crude representation of a shielded loop:<br />
[[File:Shielded_loop.png]]<br />
<br />
The principle is the same than for a loop. From wikipedia: a continuous conducting path leading from one conductor of a two-wire transmission line to the other conductor. All planar loops are directional antennas with a sharp null, and have a radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna with E and H fields interchanged.<br />
<br />
The main advantages of loops antenna are tree:<br />
<br />
1) An outstanding signal quality. It is a simple design that perform very well.<br />
<br />
2) For large loops, higher gain (about 10%) than the other forms.<br />
<br />
3) Large loop antennas are less susceptible to localized noise, partly due to their lack of a need for a groundplane.<br />
<br />
The advantage of a shielded loop over a non shielded one:<br />
<br />
4) The electric interference from the big city (streetlights, television's , cars etc...) have no influence on the received signal.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
Like we will not perform emission, any good quality coaxial cable may be used to realize such an antenna. Critical to correctly design this antenna is the wavelength of the program you want to receive best.<br />
<br />
Less critical but important is the capacitance of the coaxial cable. The circumference of the loop will be equal to the wavelenght, and that capacitance is not negligible. In practice, any good coaxial cable for TV installation will do the job. <br />
<br />
My first concern with this antenna was the FM band, because I was completely unable to receive my favorite radio program on 93.8 MHz where I am living.<br />
<br />
'''Wavelength [meter] = 300 / frequency [MMHz]'''<br />
<br />
For 93.8 MHz, we have 300 / 93.8 = 3.198 meters.<br />
<br />
According to the Balanis (Antenna Theory: Analysis and Design, by Constantine A. Balanis, it is better to use a little bigger circle. (Read the book for the details.)<br />
<br />
'''Antenna circumference = 1.1 * wavelength''' = 1.1 * 3.198 = 3.518 meters.<br />
<br />
So, we need 3.52 meters of coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
For the realization, it is up to you. Metal will not work because it will interfere with the antenna. Plastic or wood are best. The best design is one that will approach a perfect circle, like a bicycle wheel. <br />
<br />
I made mine with one vertical stick of wood and 6 smaller sticks of the same wood. I made small holes at the extremity of each stick in order to be able to attach the coaxial there. I used 2 more little pieces of wood at the center of this wheel in order to fix the sticks.<br />
<br />
We also need to cut 1 cm of the shield at the top of the antenna. The center wire must be left intact. This is very important, otherwise the antenna will be a shield, and not an antenna. Use a cutter or a good knife.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
If you look at the antenna representation, we have 2 signals wires and the ground. It is several possibility, the simplest is to use one antenna coupler. They are such antenna coupler into the market with one coaxial socket at one end (for the antenna cable) and 2 symmetrical connections at the other end. They are made to connect an antenna installation to a receiver.<br />
<br />
It is 2 variants of them.<br />
<br />
Radio variant: one connection for AM, one connection for FM.<br />
<br />
TV variant: One connection for band 1 to 3 (VHF low, FM, VHF high), one connection for band 4 and 5 (UHF).<br />
<br />
The radio variant is the easiest to find, but the TV variant is more versatile.<br />
<br />
It is a third variant, an universal 300 ohms to 75 ohms coupler. It only have 2 connectors, one symmetrical 300 ohms and one assymetrical 75 ohms.<br />
<br />
When you have such a coupler, it is just to wire the 2 signal wires into the socket you want to use, and to wire the antenna ground to the ground of the coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I am finally able to listen to 93.8 FM. It was necessary to put the antenna outdoor. I even can get the stereo, but with a lot of noise. But mono is fine. And all the other stations are working fine.<br />
<br />
I also can get the digital TV on the UHF band with this antenna, and that without changing anything to the antenna or the coupling.<br />
<br />
=== More suitable antenna for DVB ===<br />
This is an antenna which took 15 minutes to make with instructions above. My television broadcast is in 600MHz and 610MHz, so calculated loop diameter is 300/600=0,5m. Coaxial cable length is about 0,55m. I'm not sure of the coaxial type, but it is common from local store. I welded the loop to the input coaxial cable. <br />
Before with similar but unshielded loop antenna I got heavy interference from traffic, moving elevator or some random sources. It seems now that all that is gone. Also signal level went from 55% to 70%. Thank you for the original instructions!<br />
[[File:shielded_loop.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Yagi-Uda array of loops ===<br />
The Yagi-Uda array of loops will outperform any commercial TV antenna. It will be compact, provide a high gain and a good signal quality. It is possible to make it to work at very high frequencies, as well than at relatively low frequencies, at the price of a huge size in this last case. But in all cases, it will be more compact for the same gain than a commercial Yagi made with a dipole and some kind of reflectors and directors.<br />
<br />
The downside is that it will not be a broadband antenna. If you want to cover the whole UHF TV band, 2 or 3 antennas of different sizes can be necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, in situation with sharp reflexivity, other design will work better like the panel antenna EE06 from wisi, that both for analog and digital TV. That say, it would be interesting to compare those 2 antenna design in high reflexivity situation, I never made this test and will maybe be surprised by the result. Anyway, panel antennas outperform the classical Yagi in term of signal quality in such conditions.<br />
<br />
All the Yagi-Uda, Yagi in short, are made of an active element (a dipole in most cases), a reflector (some kind of panel in most cases) and an ensemble of directors (some kind of sticks in most cases). The particularity of the Yagi-Uda array of loops is that this antenna will use loops (again!) for all its elements.<br />
<br />
[[File:Yagy-Uda.png]]<br />
<br />
==== Calculation ====<br />
I made, it was some time ago when I was living in Sweden, a spreadsheet that help to calculate such antennas. You can visit my new [http://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi fourre-tout], or download it direct at [https://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi/antennes/Antennemulticadres.gnumeric?attredirects=0 Antennemulticadres.gnumeric]<br />
<br />
It is only in French now, but I will translate it soon in English.<br />
<br />
All that is needed is to change the frequency and the number of elements in order to suit your need.<br />
<br />
This spreadsheet does not perform gain calculation. The reason is simple: a realistic gain calculation for such an antenna is far too complicated for a spreadsheet. In practice, a 5 elements antenna (an antenna with one reflector, the active element and 3 directors) will be enough in many cases.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
No rules here, use your imagination, you are on your own.<br />
<br />
Some general considerations: <br />
- the elements must be made of some kind of conducting material: copper, aluminum, coaxial cable are best suited. With coaxial cable, we can use only the shield or connect the shield with the inner conductor.<br />
<br />
- the horizontal stick can be made of anything and can be placed anywhere, so long than it takes up the various elements. If it is made of conducting material, the elements must be isolated from the stick.<br />
<br />
- the distance between the reflector and the active element is very critical. It determine most of the impedance of the antenna as well than other characteristic.<br />
<br />
- all the elements are circles, and their center must be on the same line.<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
All we need is some kind of 300 ohms to 75 ohms antenna coupler. Some models are costing less than 1 $.<br />
<br />
The active element is coupled to the coupler by its 2 extremity on the 300 ohms symmetrical side of the coupler. Made those connections as short as possible.<br />
<br />
The coaxial antenna cable is connected to the other side of the coupler.<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I made one such antenna in Malmö, Sweden. I made it from sticks of wood and pieces of coaxial cable. With a 5 elements antenna, I was able to receive all the TV channels but one that was in black and white with a lot of noise (analog TV). The antenna was calculated for this channel.<br />
<br />
After expanding the number of elements to 19, I was able to receive all the channels in color and without noise. This 19 elements was outperforming by 2 dB a wisi EB66, one of the better high gain UHF antenna on the market, that on the frequency the antenna was designed for. I am sure that with a better mechanical design (use of copper instead of coaxial cable), the result would have been even better.<br />
<br />
As expected, the gain of the antenna in its 19 elements version was decreasing fast when the channel frequency was decreasing or increasing from the antenna central frequency.</div>Faabiohttps://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Shielded_Loop_Antenna_/_Yagi-Uda_array_of_loopsShielded Loop Antenna / Yagi-Uda array of loops2013-03-20T06:50:47Z<p>Faabio: </p>
<hr />
<div>It is plenty of article on home builds antenna onto the internet. Most of them are for antenna that can work for both emission and reception.<br />
<br />
We will see here two different designs for reception into the FM and TV band. Those 2 designs are using the same base type of antenna: the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loop_antenna loop antenna].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Shielded loop ===<br />
A crude representation of a shielded loop:<br />
[[File:Shielded_loop.png]]<br />
<br />
The principle is the same than for a loop. From wikipedia: a continuous conducting path leading from one conductor of a two-wire transmission line to the other conductor. All planar loops are directional antennas with a sharp null, and have a radiation pattern similar to the dipole antenna with E and H fields interchanged.<br />
<br />
The main advantages of loops antenna are tree:<br />
<br />
1) An outstanding signal quality. It is a simple design that perform very well.<br />
<br />
2) For large loops, higher gain (about 10%) than the other forms.<br />
<br />
3) Large loop antennas are less susceptible to localized noise, partly due to their lack of a need for a groundplane.<br />
<br />
The advantage of a shielded loop over a non shielded one:<br />
<br />
4) The electric interference from the big city (streetlights, television's , cars etc...) have no influence on the received signal.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
Like we will not perform emission, any good quality coaxial cable may be used to realize such an antenna. Critical to correctly design this antenna is the wavelength of the program you want to receive best.<br />
<br />
Less critical but important is the capacitance of the coaxial cable. The circumference of the loop will be equal to the wavelenght, and that capacitance is not negligible. In practice, any good coaxial cable for TV installation will do the job. <br />
<br />
My first concern with this antenna was the FM band, because I was completely unable to receive my favorite radio program on 93.8 MHz where I am living.<br />
<br />
'''Wavelength [meter] = 300 / frequency [MMHz]'''<br />
<br />
For 93.8 MHz, we have 300 / 93.8 = 3.198 meters.<br />
<br />
According to the Balanis (Antenna Theory: Analysis and Design, by Constantine A. Balanis, it is better to use a little bigger circle. (Read the book for the details.)<br />
<br />
'''Antenna circumference = 1.1 * wavelength''' = 1.1 * 3.198 = 3.518 meters.<br />
<br />
So, we need 3.52 meters of coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
For the realization, it is up to you. Metal will not work because it will interfere with the antenna. Plastic or wood are best. The best design is one that will approach a perfect circle, like a bicycle wheel. <br />
<br />
I made mine with one vertical stick of wood and 6 smaller sticks of the same wood. I made small holes at the extremity of each stick in order to be able to attach the coaxial there. I used 2 more little pieces of wood at the center of this wheel in order to fix the sticks.<br />
<br />
We also need to cut 1 cm of the shield at the top of the antenna. The center wire must be left intact. This is very important, otherwise the antenna will be a shield, and not an antenna. Use a cutter or a good knife.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
If you look at the antenna representation, we have 2 signals wires and the ground. It is several possibility, the simplest is to use one antenna coupler. They are such antenna coupler into the market with one coaxial socket at one end (for the antenna cable) and 2 symmetrical connections at the other end. They are made to connect an antenna installation to a receiver.<br />
<br />
It is 2 variants of them.<br />
<br />
Radio variant: one connection for AM, one connection for FM.<br />
<br />
TV variant: One connection for band 1 to 3 (VHF low, FM, VHF high), one connection for band 4 and 5 (UHF).<br />
<br />
The radio variant is the easiest to find, but the TV variant is more versatile.<br />
<br />
It is a third variant, an universal 300 ohms to 75 ohms coupler. It only have 2 connectors, one symmetrical 300 ohms and one assymetrical 75 ohms.<br />
<br />
When you have such a coupler, it is just to wire the 2 signal wires into the socket you want to use, and to wire the antenna ground to the ground of the coaxial cable.<br />
<br />
TODO: add some photos<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I am finally able to listen to 93.8 FM. It was necessary to put the antenna outdoor. I even can get the stereo, but with a lot of noise. But mono is fine. And all the other stations are working fine.<br />
<br />
I also can get the digital TV on the UHF band with this antenna, and that without changing anything to the antenna or the coupling.<br />
<br />
== More suitable antenna for DVB ==<br />
This is an antenna which took 15 minutes to make with instructions above. My television broadcast is in 600MHz and 610MHz, so calculated loop diameter is 300/600=0,5m. Coaxial cable length is about 0,55m. I'm not sure of the coaxial type, but it is common from local store. I welded the loop to the input coaxial cable. <br />
Before with similar but unshielded loop antenna I got heavy interference from traffic, moving elevator or some random sources. It seems now that all that is gone. Also signal level went from 55% to 70%. Thank you for the original instructions!<br />
[[File:shielded_loop.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Yagi-Uda array of loops ===<br />
The Yagi-Uda array of loops will outperform any commercial TV antenna. It will be compact, provide a high gain and a good signal quality. It is possible to make it to work at very high frequencies, as well than at relatively low frequencies, at the price of a huge size in this last case. But in all cases, it will be more compact for the same gain than a commercial Yagi made with a dipole and some kind of reflectors and directors.<br />
<br />
The downside is that it will not be a broadband antenna. If you want to cover the whole UHF TV band, 2 or 3 antennas of different sizes can be necessary.<br />
<br />
Also, in situation with sharp reflexivity, other design will work better like the panel antenna EE06 from wisi, that both for analog and digital TV. That say, it would be interesting to compare those 2 antenna design in high reflexivity situation, I never made this test and will maybe be surprised by the result. Anyway, panel antennas outperform the classical Yagi in term of signal quality in such conditions.<br />
<br />
All the Yagi-Uda, Yagi in short, are made of an active element (a dipole in most cases), a reflector (some kind of panel in most cases) and an ensemble of directors (some kind of sticks in most cases). The particularity of the Yagi-Uda array of loops is that this antenna will use loops (again!) for all its elements.<br />
<br />
[[File:Yagy-Uda.png]]<br />
<br />
==== Calculation ====<br />
I made, it was some time ago when I was living in Sweden, a spreadsheet that help to calculate such antennas. You can visit my new [http://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi fourre-tout], or download it direct at [https://sites.google.com/site/lefourretoutdebibi/antennes/Antennemulticadres.gnumeric?attredirects=0 Antennemulticadres.gnumeric]<br />
<br />
It is only in French now, but I will translate it soon in English.<br />
<br />
All that is needed is to change the frequency and the number of elements in order to suit your need.<br />
<br />
This spreadsheet does not perform gain calculation. The reason is simple: a realistic gain calculation for such an antenna is far too complicated for a spreadsheet. In practice, a 5 elements antenna (an antenna with one reflector, the active element and 3 directors) will be enough in many cases.<br />
<br />
==== Practical realization ====<br />
No rules here, use your imagination, you are on your own.<br />
<br />
Some general considerations: <br />
- the elements must be made of some kind of conducting material: copper, aluminum, coaxial cable are best suited. With coaxial cable, we can use only the shield or connect the shield with the inner conductor.<br />
<br />
- the horizontal stick can be made of anything and can be placed anywhere, so long than it takes up the various elements. If it is made of conducting material, the elements must be isolated from the stick.<br />
<br />
- the distance between the reflector and the active element is very critical. It determine most of the impedance of the antenna as well than other characteristic.<br />
<br />
- all the elements are circles, and their center must be on the same line.<br />
<br />
==== Coupling ====<br />
All we need is some kind of 300 ohms to 75 ohms antenna coupler. Some models are costing less than 1 $.<br />
<br />
The active element is coupled to the coupler by its 2 extremity on the 300 ohms symmetrical side of the coupler. Made those connections as short as possible.<br />
<br />
The coaxial antenna cable is connected to the other side of the coupler.<br />
<br />
==== Testing ====<br />
I made one such antenna in Malmö, Sweden. I made it from sticks of wood and pieces of coaxial cable. With a 5 elements antenna, I was able to receive all the TV channels but one that was in black and white with a lot of noise (analog TV). The antenna was calculated for this channel.<br />
<br />
After expanding the number of elements to 19, I was able to receive all the channels in color and without noise. This 19 elements was outperforming by 2 dB a wisi EB66, one of the better high gain UHF antenna on the market, that on the frequency the antenna was designed for. I am sure that with a better mechanical design (use of copper instead of coaxial cable), the result would have been even better.<br />
<br />
As expected, the gain of the antenna in its 19 elements version was decreasing fast when the channel frequency was decreasing or increasing from the antenna central frequency.</div>Faabio