Hoi An: the ultimate beach and culture holiday in Vietnam

Ah, Vietnam. Land of divine beaches, lush mountains, ancient wonders, delicious food and the most genuinely warm and welcoming people you’ll ever meet. Quite frankly, anywhere you go in this astonishing country will capture your heart – but for the ultimate combination of beach and culture, the city of Hoi An is not to be missed. The best part? It’s heavy on charm but light on crowds.

Where to stay

The Four Seasons Resort, The Nam Hai

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Make the most of Hoi An’s coastal location at the Four Seasons’ Nam Hai Resort, which cleverly keeps its sandy half-mile of Ha My Beach to itself. The villas, meanwhile, are carefully positioned for privacy but with direct access to the beach. There’s a spa overlooking a particularly tranquil lotus pond (sign up for the traditional massage, which comes with crystal singing bowls) and two restaurants serving Vietnamese and Asian fare – don’t leave without trying the soft-shell crab.

What to do

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A saunter around the lovely, lantern-lined streets of Hoi An’s ancient town is the perfect antidote to all that lazing about on the beach. Here you can marvel at the mix of Japanese, Chinese and French-colonial architectural styles, a by-product of the city’s history as an important trading port. Wander across the Japanese covered bridge, visit a traditional home to see how Vietnamese merchant families lived and stop by the Hoi An Central Market on the banks of the Thu Bon river to peruse all manner of local curiosities. Go in the evening, when the webs of lanterns strung between the buildings are alight and the town is at its most enchanting.

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Visit My Son Sanctuary

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If you fancy a bit of adventure, take a trip inland to explore My Son Sanctuary, where the jungle-valley backdrop is so dramatic you’ll feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of an Indiana Jones film. The site, which was the most important centre of the Champa Kingdom, comprises around 20 Hindu temples.

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Climb the Marble Mountains

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Up the road in Da Nang, five marble masses loom out of the otherwise flat landscape. You can get to the top of one of them by jumping into a vine-covered lift or – if you’re a bit mad and don’t mind working up a major sweat – by walking. Either way, once there you’ll be able to see an otherworldly network of rocky paths, pagodas, altars and caves hidden away in thick greenery.

Get something tailor-made

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Hoi An is brimming with brilliant – and highly affordable – tailors. Pay a visit to Yaly Couture (arguably the most famous thanks to Jeremy Clarkson and co’s order of flamboyant suits during the Top Gear Vietnam special), and a few hours later you’ll be in possession of an entirely new wardrobe.

Take a boat

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A holiday by the sea isn’t complete without some kind of water-based activity, so hop on a boat to visit Hoi An’s nearby islands, try your hand at traditional net-fishing methods or simply bob about and enjoy the view. Jack Tran Tours offer a range of boating experiences and they’ll even perform their very own rendition of ‘Gangnam Style’ for you on precarious basket boats (no, this is not a joke).

What to eat and drink

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White rose dumplings (banh bao banh vac) at the White Rose restaurant

The recipe for these delicious little parcels of steamed shrimp (they look like white roses, hence the name) has been the closely guarded secret of a local Hoi An family for three generations – you won’t find them anywhere else in the country. The family supplies the dumplings for many places in Hoi An, but head to their own, aptly named White Rose restaurant to watch them being freshly prepared.

Banh Mi

This is Vietnam’s answer to the English afternoon-tea sandwich, only much spicier and more exciting – a light, crispy rice-flour baguette stuffed with meat, vegetables and condiments. The best ones in the city can be found at Banh Mi Phuong and Banh Mi Queen.

Vietnamese iced coffee (ca phe sua da) at 11 Coffee

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The Vietnamese don’t do flavour (or caffeine) by halves. This traditional coffee is served strong and dark over ice, with a dash of sweetened condensed milk, and it’s guaranteed to put a spring in your step. Enjoy it riverside at 11 Coffee.

Vietnamese beef jerky (thit kho bo)

When you think of beef jerky, do you imagine something dry and leathery that’s as chewy as an old boot? Well, that’s because you haven’t tried the Vietnamese kind. With an added mixture of spices and sugar, it’s a soft and delicious treat. Order it with your pre-dinner drinks at the bar at the Nam Hai.