Respect is a
part of the culture that comes with the territory. It's as much a part
of surfing as it was a part of the caveman culture. Territory, respect,
pecking order, all of which are only established by action. In my case,
the action could be a 40-pound board slicing over my head. The "kick
out" was not just a way to pull out of a wave, it was a surfing lesson.
There are unwritten rules in surfing. The best waves are ridden by
those who put themselves in a position to catch the swell at its peak.
Those that elect to try and ride a safer part of the wave can get in
the flight path of those swooping down from the more powerful section.
That's a violation.Source: Page 7, in Torrens, H. (2003). Paraffin chronicles.
Victoria, B.C.: Trafford.