Watermarc chef shares delightful appetizer

One of the things I love about my job is the chance to ferret out culinary secrets from talented chefs. I'm crazy about the fried goat cheese with apples and honey at Watermarc, an appetizer that showcases warm spheres of goat cheese drizzled with honey and served with crisp apples.

The honey melts over the spheres of warm cheese, which are crisp and lightly browned on the outside and creamy-rich on the inside. The fruit adds irresistible crunch plus a spark of tartness, while a garnish of micro Dijon sprouts brings a smidgen of peppery attitude.

Marc Cohen – the executive chef/operating partner of Watermarc and 230 Forest Avenue in Laguna Beach, as well as Opah restaurants in Irvine and Aliso Viejo – generously shared the recipe with me, with the assurance that it is easy to prepare at home.

He told me he often makes the dish when entertaining at home. His guests, he said, love to watch the not-too-complicated process. And they love to eat the tasty little fritters, too, often accompanied with chilled gewürztraminer or chardonnay.

Cohen's father was an art professor with a deep appreciation for the work of artist Marc Chagall, a fondness that gave rise to his son's name. And indeed, Marc Cohen has the eye of an artist. Yes, the tastes and textures of his dishes are in harmony, but the beautiful presentations on the plate also play an important role. For a passed appetizer, he serves bite-sized portions in Asian soup spoons. Plated as a first course, he alternates thin slices of skin-on apples with the warm spheres of cheese.

Cook's notes: Cheese shouldn't be too cold or too warm when rolling into spheres. It needs to be pliable. Chef Cohen uses Laurel Chenel goat cheese. Old Bay Seasoning is a mix that includes mustard, paprika, celery seed, bay leaf, black and red pepper, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, salt and ginger. Dijon microgreens are difficult to find. I use the mixed microgreens sold at Trader Joe's (sold in plastic containers). Or use baby arugula. If serving as a plated first course, rather than dicing the apples, thinly slice them and alternate the slices vertically with the spheres. If you prefer, deep-fry spheres before guests arrive and reheat on baking sheet in a 350-degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes.

2. For passed appetizers: Cut apples into 1/4-inch slices. Cut lengthwise into 1/4-wide matchsticks. Cut crosswise into 1/4-inch dice. Place in bowl. Toss with juices, honey and soda. Set aside.

3. Place 4 inches of oil in a deep pot (at least 8 inches deep) on high heat. Bring to 375 degrees (use a deep-fat fryer thermometer) and regulate heat to maintain that temperature, reducing or increasing heat when needed. Place buttermilk in bowl next to stove. Place flour mixture in a shallow container next to buttermilk bowl and place a plate lined with paper towels next to it. Roll chilled cheese spheres in flour, then into buttermilk, letting excess buttermilk drip off. Roll again in flour. Cautiously lower into heated oil; do not overcrowd pan. Fry until lightly browned, about 20 to 30 seconds; drain on paper towels. Use a slotted spoon to place a bite-sized amount of apples (without liquid) in each Asian spoon. Top each with warm goat cheese sphere. Drizzle a little honey on top of each sphere and garnish with Dijon microgreens or arugula microgreens. Serve immediately.

Source: executive chef Marc Cohen, Watermarc, Laguna Beach

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Cathy Thomas is the food columnist for the Register. She also writes CathyThomasCooks.com, a website for food lovers and cooks.