Romario, most ports will fit close, if you go to beckson.com you can buy some that are really cheap. or you could buy from marine suppliers. MY O30 has 4, 4X10 (ish) and the beckson fit well with just a little shaving of the opening. what is that one with 3 clamps? there are only 2 clamps on the ones in my boat.
btw, PYHI is no more.

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Romario, most ports will fit close, if you go to beckson.com you can buy some that are really cheap. or you could buy from marine suppliers. MY O30 has 4, 4X10 (ish) and the beckson fit well with just a little shaving of the opening. what is that one with 3 clamps? there are only 2 clamps on the ones in my boat.
btw, PYHI is no more.

Yeah, I understood from research that PYHI is gone. There are actually 5 clamps on each of them, two more on the vertical sides. And they still leak

Oh.. your windows are actually ports.. I think the earlier O30s were built that way. Cool.. you at least get fresh air! The gaskets lose there resilience and the frames meet plastic to plastic. You could maybe get the gaskets to stand out more by putting a bead of caulk in the groove and lightly pressing the gasket back in.

"Next best thing to not having a boat? The knowledge from having one!" Denise, Bristol PA, On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

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Did anyone try any of these? What do you think I should buy? One thing to note - the walls on the boat are pretty thin, they are basically two sheets of fiberglass, inner and outer one with air in between, so looks like for the newfoundmetals one I would need a teak spacer.

"basically two sheets of fiberglass, inner and outer one with air in between,"
Without a solid filler panel, you will get leaks again. You might want to checkthe width of that gap and see if you can use some cheap cutting boards from the dollar store (which tend to be HDPE or other good stable plastic) or else order in some similar plastic material instead of teak (expensive! and still can rot) to fill the gap and be the spacer.

"basically two sheets of fiberglass, inner and outer one with air in between,"
Without a solid filler panel, you will get leaks again. You might want to checkthe width of that gap and see if you can use some cheap cutting boards from the dollar store (which tend to be HDPE or other good stable plastic) or else order in some similar plastic material instead of teak (expensive! and still can rot) to fill the gap and be the spacer.

It wasn't leaking there, the leak was from the lens, the gasket cracked I think and it started leaking between the glass and the rubber that is around the glass.

I have replaced some of our ports with the brass new found metal ports, little pricey but outstanding quality, kind which will last a long time. If you order them make sure you also order the buytl rubber, works a lot better than chauking.

Romario, if the cabin side is not solid (filled) then it will flex, which in turn will make the rim of the portlights flex, which in turn will give you stress cracks and leaks at some point, from some part of the portlight. Bottom line, if the whole rim is not clamping down on the cabin side with uniform pressure on all parts, all fastenings? Something is going to localize stresses, and crack or leak. Sooner or later, but it will.

Don't kill yourself, go to the hardware store and get some Great Stuff Foam, get the minimally expanding version made for doors and windows. Fill the gap with this. Pick the closest hatch you can find size wise, slightly larger and just trim out the openings to fit. I would check Great Lakes Skipper he sells new surplus and has deals if you can find a size that fits.
Jay

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