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Jan 7, 2016

Happy New Year, everybody!
This week, after a few days' hiatus, I returned to the sewing machines. My first project is a shirt for Michael. I decided to use a Liberty of London cotton poplin that's been sitting in my stash since the summer (The pattern is called Glenjade, I believe). I've been in a pastel mood lately and this fabric suits me perfectly -- and it also looks great with Michael's coloring. I call this a floral though the pattern looks more like leaves. Who knows?

To make the shirt, I'm using McCall's 8908, which dates from 1984. I've made a few tweaks, like gathering the sleeves at the cuffs instead of pleating them.

Below you can see me trying to choose the best-matching thread I had in my stash. I ended up going with the orchid pink, lower left.

My contrast fabric is a cotton gingham left over from an earlier shirt project. I considered a few other fabrics but this one worked best; it really fits the mood of the shirt.

Speaking of orchids, the palette of the shirt looks like it was taken straight from the orchid that currently sits in our living room window. (Can you tell that there's a very faint diagonal visible in the fabric pattern?)

With the exception of the buttonholes, I made the entire shirt on my Elna Grasshopper. I love that this machine operates with a knee lever instead of a foot pedal. I hate hunting for pedals with my foot (not to mention the hassle of having to take my shoes off). Below I'm edgestitching a shirt cuff.

In my current method of shirtmaking, I complete my cuffs and collar/collar stand separate from the rest of the shirt. I attach them toward the end of my project.

The shirt's not done yet but I tried it on next to the orchid. Time for a shave!

These grayish plastic buttons from my stash looked perfect with my fabric. I realized only today that they have a bit of a faux-wood-grain thing going on.

You'll get to see Michael in the shirt next week, plus a whole lot more sewing in the weeks to come.

Kate, I've sewn a lot of men's shirts over the years so have had a good amount of practice, but the class I took at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) helped tremendously. Here's one link from the postings I did about the class:

I love everything about this shirt! I love that pleated breast view on the pattern also. It may be an 80's pattern but the fabric looks like 1972 to me, and the contrast and excellence would make me think "Peter MPB!" if I saw it on the street.

I never used to make them separately until I took a shirtmaking class at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology). It isn't easier, necessarily, but it does allow you to focus solely on the single piece rather than the whole shirt. Of course, the challenge is fitting collar on the shirt when you've finished it. That takes some practice.

looks gorgeous, peter, and michael is going to stun in that palette! i like the look of the envelope-- is this a more tapered/fitted shirt? everything i've tried has such a boxy shape, even with darts (or as ruggy calls them, "dorts").

Nearly all the 70's and early 80's shirt patterns are more fitted than those of today and they're easy to find on Etsy and eBay. A good contemporary fitted shirt pattern is Vogue 8889, if you want something in-print.

Beautifully executed, Peter. This inspires me to make several for myself and hubby this year. There's something very gratifying for me in making shirts over anything else, but I rarely get to sew one. Isn't that crazy?

In school we had knee-operated Singers. I really loved that and haven't had one since.But the older I get the more I would like one. Maybe I should trade one of my machines in for an Elna or something like it.

I remembered this fabric supplier from a blog I read a few months ago. The blogger was remarking on the good quality of the "Liberty-like" fabric and about 1/3 the price. Living in "The City" you may have enough sources, but I thought you might be interested. The designs are nice. http://www.shaukat.co.uk/category/designer-printed-fabrics/shaukat-100-cotton-designs

I learned to sew on a Grasshopper that my dad bought my mom new when I was born. It taught me many things and I, too, loved the knee lever. I felt it was a downgrade to have to use a foot controller when the time came to buy my own machine in 1970. It was a Singer Fashion Mate that I wish I still had. Lovely work, Peter!

I took the foot pedal of my machine, attached wires to openings on either side (carefully avoiding contact with any electrical parts), then fastened the pedal to the side of the cabinet on the right side of where I sit when I sew at the height where the side of my leg contacts it. Now I have a knee control that has served me well for years. Foot controls are so annoying!

a boy, a dream, and 10+ sewing machines

I'm a native New Yorker and sewing fanatic! I started sewing in 2009 and today make all my own clothes using vintage sewing machines and vintage patterns, in addition to sewing for private clients. Welcome to the warm and whimsical world of Male Pattern Boldness, where the conversation is sewing, style, fashion, fabric, and more!