Description

From the parking lot, go across the drainage and then past the first trail (to Generic Crack). The next trail will take you up to the Chocolate Corner area. Hike past Chocolate Corner to a large inset chimney with two routes inside. This is the route on the right side of the chimney, ascending a slightly overhanging thin hands to finger crack in an acute dihedral/slot to a anchor composed of two drilled pins. About 70 feet.

Start up the seemingly frictionless thin-hands slot (with occasionally tolerable hand jams) to a pod, where you can place the #3 Camalot and milk a "rest". The 25 feet from the pod to the anchors is the crux, with acceptable and sometimes excellent fingerlocks. Hardmen and hardwomen will just jam straight up to the anchors, while the rest of us softies can use an inelegant combination of stemming and chimney technique to supplement the finger jams.Three stars anywhere else, but two stars at most for Indian Creek.

Protection

3 #1 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, double Aliens from yellow to orange. Heck, you could might even be able to use some larger stoppers on this if you wanted to hang around and fiddle them in.

This thing ate me alive... I got a knee gobie right through my pants from kneebar-ing my way most of the distance! Certainly seemed harder for me than other 10s at the Creek. I'd call it 10+ for the water polish, awkwardness, and bad rattly fingers at the top.

And yes, I'm pretty sure this route is the Drainpipe. That's what Bloom says, it squares with his description, and also this crack is definitely the primary drainage channel, not the one to the left (personal observation!).

Well, LahDa, those drilled angles went in at a time when they were much preferred to 1/4" split-shaft compression bolts, which were granite standard. Feel free to upgrade the hardware. Just do a good job!

Another party pulled the piton out with hands this weekend. Putting it back in and hoping for the best us certainly not the only answer. A: replace it. B: leave a precious cam as backup (more precious than life?)

Anyway, for the time being THIS ROUTE IS NOT LEADABLE WITHOUT A BOLT KIT.

Top roping it off the left Drainpipe route is probably more fun, anyway.

Several anchors in Donnelly are double pitons ( maybe 30+ years old) with chains and due for a replacement including the left Drainpipe.