However, I work with Balsa / SolarLite and was wondering how well this technique works in that case.

[1] How to glue the decal to the shrink wrap covering?
[2] For lettering, is the decal transparent enough to be invisible (for the part
where there is no lettering)?

Thanks,
Sanjaya

Thanks for checking in and you comments with questions. I have not used Solarlite, unless it also known by a different name. The decals will work with many shrink coverings, especially many of the lightweight 'polyester' or sometimes called synthetic tissue kinds. Since these coverings can be painted, similar methods can be used, even down to Krylon as the top coat instead of say WBPU.

You can even use them on some of the mylar type coverings, like monocote, orcacover, etc, but I'd use 3M Super 77 spray glue to get the decal on the plastic. 3M glue is so agressive though there is a learning curve on applying the glue and handling the decals with the glue on them! Toothpicks and some transfer sheets come to mind. I often make most of my trim on true mylar, out of mylar when possible though.

The decals do blend in well with many kinds of materials (the edges), but always test on some scrap to see the results. Wearing reading glasses and some sharp #11 blades and scissors, I can trim a decal right to the printed edge when it might not 'blend in' and get some very clean results.

Of course these work with regular tissue and silkspan, probably about as best as any material!

Images

What a beauty! Thanks for posting the photos. You did a subperb job of building and covering. You model is deserving of the decal stock and extra work involved. Also thanks for the information on the decal transparency info when using the light colored Solarlite film. That should help others when deciding on finishing techniques.

Have you flown it yet? You should get plenty of attention at the flying site with that model. Good luck and congratulations!

Nice thread Fred! Your secrets are out!
Have you ever printed on tissue after you sprayed the tissue paper white?

No, and it would depend on one's printer and ink. My inkjet would probably smear on painted surfaces because it really isn't dry immediately. The lazer might work, but heaven help if the paint peeled or the paper got stuck with all that heat going on! The lazer machine isn't cheap and they wouldn't warranty such abuse!

PS. There are no secrets! Share and share alike, we all prosper (or have fun)!

No, and it would depend on one's printer and ink. My inkjet would probably smear on painted surfaces because it really isn't dry immediately.

Fred

What if the white paint was on the back and you printed on the other side? I'm looking to just increase the opacity of the tissue so that painting blue/pink foam would be unnecessary. Paint it like you did stretched out over a box, dry. mount paint side down on a carrier sheet and print.

What if the white paint was on the back and you printed on the other side? I'm looking to just increase the opacity of the tissue so that painting blue/pink foam would be unnecessary. Paint it like you did stretched out over a box, dry. mount paint side down on a carrier sheet and print.

You know, it is well worth a try. I have been post spraying the back with white. If you get in a hurry and do heavier coats the white can creep through the little pores making some very tiny specks of white on the decal (not so bad, but not perfection. I have often thought what if you treated a second sheet, just white, and pre-mounted the tissue decals to it before cutting the decal out. Only issues would be a good wrinkle free bond that doesn't delaminate upon final mounting.

Here is my latest use of tissue decals. Built a DH94 Moth Minor, and used the tissue decals on a FFF foam, painted airframe. This model is about 40" W.S., and the decals do blend in with little seams like they were painted on.

These were painted on the back side wth white after they had been treated with clear. Sort of got in a hurry and sprayed the white a little thick, and ended up with some very tiny speckeling. The cool thing is that the dark colors do not show through the decal.

The best way to mount these decals ended up taking some Weldbond Whit Glue, and I squeegied a thin layer on with a shiny post card. Quickly applied it where I wanted it and rubbed it down from the center out. I let this dry for at least 1 hour, and then top coated with WBPU.

The whole airframe was hand painted with thinned craft paint and a brush (free hand), decals added, then airbrushed sprayed the whole airfram with WBPU (cheap Harbor Freight utility brush that puts out A LOT of material quickly).

On a bird this size, or larger one could use a thin white copy paper to print on, as I did in the old days. I just hate the bump at the edge (seam) when using thicker paper.

I used your method, modified a little to put these gold colored tissue (not foil or plastic) letters on my Brown B-2 racer.

The main difference was that large letters really want to tear and fold in on themselves when wet or glue-sticked (verb?) and are very difficult to re-position. I finally had to dispense with the glue stick and white glue, and float them on generous amount of Polycrylic applied to the wing. I could then reposition slightly.

I also used the paper pattern sheet cutout as a positioning stencil to place the letters.

The photo shows them as first applied -- the slight wrinkling disappears after overnight drying.

Very nice work on the lettering. Looks really sharp in Red and Gold. I have varied my application sometimes, and glue stick, and/or white glue (Very thin layer), with a polycrilic base sometimes works well. The trich is to spread the white glue very thin and apply immediately.

I've done a few new projects too. Maybe when I do the decals on the latest I'll post some more photos too!

Great work and I'm sure you will be enjoying that finish for some time!

Thank you Tom. I tried to do a quick decal set for a new build using regular copy paper recently, and it about ruined my airplane because the decals lifted creating valleys, ridges, and bubbles. I am sticking with the tissue decals an all my foamies, covered planes, and anything fiberglassed or filter/silkspan covered. I got mor pictures to post one day, need to get to that!