Did you email/ask Ridley? I thought Specialized was the only one with the Tarmac/Venge on the old molds that would rub on "wide" rims. Haven't heard of other issues with other brands. But then again..you never know.

Contrary to some of the responses above if you a sprinter/out of saddle aggressive climber then the wheel will not work. I ran into the same problem as you when I went from a set of ENVE 65 with 28 holes/DT Aerolite nds 2X+DT AeroComp ds 2X/Powertap Pro+ hub/Continental GP4000S 700x23C to my current Campagnolo Bullet 80 wheels. The former wheels (plus a handful of others) resulted in tire rub along the chain stays AND seat stays.

I even contacted Ridley and inquired if Andre Greipel was using a custom frame because I was experiencing tire rub from wheel flex. I am a former track cyclist who generates anywhere from 1600-1787 watts in a sprint and this would result in complete paint removal from the chain stay/seat stay inner surfaces and tire wear along the sidewalls of my tires. Ridley responded and said that it shouldn't be happening. I believe the tight tolerances are to blame since the Ridley Passport info indicated there is only 30mm of clearance…a standard 23C tire would yield 3.5mm on either side and depending on paint thickness it might be closer to 3mm on either side.

The take home message is the wider the rims the less tire clearance you will have with the chain stay/seat stay area. I think Conti GP4000S 700x23C tires turned out to be around 24-25mm wide on the ENVE SES 6.7 which left 2 mm of clearance on either side of the tires. Zipp Firecrest wheels will most likely leave similar clearances and even the newer 24 spoke wheels will flex too much.

Well that's interesting.I will add:Noah pro is stiffer than noah fast - I was referring to the pro in case that needed to be cleared up.I don't know what wattage I pull but at the end of my bunch ride I hit 64-69 km/hr depending on day / wind and I'm 75kgs. With the 24 spoke 2014 fc and gp4000s I'm yet to experience rubbing but I haven't put tape there or anything to test for sure / that can be my next step.

Well that's interesting.I will add:Noah pro is stiffer than noah fast - I was referring to the pro in case that needed to be cleared up.I don't know what wattage I pull but at the end of my bunch ride I hit 64-69 km/hr depending on day / wind and I'm 75kgs. With the 24 spoke 2014 fc and gp4000s I'm yet to experience rubbing but I haven't put tape there or anything to test for sure / that can be my next step.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just an FYI, I too own a Noah Pro and used to own the standard Noah. Both bikes experienced the same issues. Additionally, according to some email exchanges with Ridley back when I was looking for a wheel set that would work with the frame the guys at Ridley said that the Noah, Noah Pro and Noah Fast were all similar in frame stiffness. The new Noah SL is supposedly more compliant but I haven't seen any data supporting this.

Trust me when I say I was really frustrated when the wheel rub occurred because it literally rubbed the paint down to the carbon. Additionally, when I started my search for a replacement frame (thinking maybe the frame was too flexy) I realized that it was one of the stiffest frames on the market. I believe Ridley made the wheel tolerances too tight for practical use without it incurring some collateral damage to the paint. Thinking I was some kind of beast on the bike I have noticed this same issue on two other Ridleys and both riders are noticeably smaller than I am (one was a female sprinter but maybe 100 lbs soaking wet!!!).

Now whenever I visit the bike shops I find myself looking at the chain stay/seat stay tolerances in anticipation of my next bike purchase. Because my other bike (Colnago CLX 3.0) is not as stiff but I have no tire rub on that bike.

Truly staggering. You need the enve 65 classics 22mm wide. Anyways I'm still doing ok. No real evidence of rub yet but I have matt black paint. And only sprinting once a week right now. I'll keep monitoring. I guess when you jump (getagapholdagap) that's when it happens

hppy4u2 - After doing enough kms i can concede that i am getting some tyre rub on the drive side at the seat stay area.

I have measured clearances as follows:- 3mm (tops) between tyre and seat stay (drive side)- 4mm between tyre and seat stay (non-drive side)

I gather having a difference in clearance on each side as above (difference is noticeable by eye) is normal?

Also note that where the tyre meets the bottom bracket the wheel/tyre looks centered but upon measuring: - 5mm of space on the drive side between sidewall tyre and frame- 6mm of space on the non-drive side between sidewall tyre and frame

Can i have the rim moved 1mm to give me more clearance at the seat stay area? Or is this not possible?From what i can gather, the wheels where purchased as is and installed 'as delivered' like most wheels are.

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