Definitely FQHH as that is really the only part of the horse that's used for jackets. No other part of the horse is usable for that purpose. Whether the hide ends up grainy or smooth is entirely up to the tannery and / or jacket maker. Aero's chromexcel FQHH is very smooth to start because the hide is run under a glazing jack, high pressure glass rollers that smooth the grain. Other FQHH start out very grainy.

Is there any reason, beside aesthetics, that this process is used? Does it have any effect on the durability and general quality of the leather?

Oh, I guess this means that the Vicenza leather is also FQHH? That's really surprising, since it's a lot thinner than normal FQHH... How is that done?

Is there any reason, beside aesthetics, that this process is used? Does it have any effect on the durability and general quality of the leather?

Oh, I guess this means that the Vicenza leather is also FQHH? That's really surprising, since it's a lot thinner than normal FQHH... How is that done?

A thinner full grain leather just means that more of the underlying layers have been shaved off. Incidentally, I don't know if the Vicenzia is a corrected leather, like most of Horween's leathers, or whether it's full grain and uncorrected. @ChrisGold ?

A thinner full grain leather just means that more of the underlying layers have been shaved off. Incidentally, I don't know if the Vicenzia is a corrected leather, like most of Horween's leathers, or whether it's full grain and uncorrected. @ChrisGold
?

It's full grain but there are really two distinct versions. One is very smooth and I suspect has been run though a glazing jack or hot pressed... the other is very, very grainy and clearly just left alone. This is the type of conversation that causes a lot of fights on other forums, because this type of correction doesn't remove any of the top of the hide, thus they retain the ability to call it "full grain", but it down flatten the leather so that the grain is almost non-existent and takes a while to re-appear. Two Vincenza hides that I own, one grainy and one smooth.

If you look closely you can see that the grain is still there on the "smooth" Vincenza, but that it's been flattened. On hides that have been substantially sanded down, you typically don't see any grain.

It's full grain but there are really two distinct versions. One is very smooth and I suspect has been run though a glazing jack or hot pressed... the other is very, very grainy and clearly just left alone. This is the type of conversation that causes a lot of fights on other forums, because this type of correction doesn't remove any of the top of the hide, thus they retain the ability to call it "full grain", but it down flatten the leather so that the grain is almost non-existent and takes a while to re-appear. Two Vincenza hides that I own, one grainy and one smooth.

Why the fight? Horween calls it corrected on their own website, for example. It is what it is. I think that they (Horween,) actually buff the surface of their leathers to get rid of things like scars.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisGold

If you look closely you can see that the grain is still there on the "smooth" Vincenza, but that it's been flattened. On hides that have been substantially sanded down, you typically don't see any grain.

I assume that for this leather, the grain will come out with wear, like every other FQHH jacket?

Why the fight? Horween calls it corrected on their own website, for example. It is what it is. I think that they (Horween,) actually buff the surface of their leathers to get rid of things like scars.)

I assume that for this leather, the grain will come out with wear, like every other FQHH jacket?

Purists don't like anything being done to the surface of a hide and still calling it Full Grain. Horween sells so many types of leather but they list CXL as full grain, even though it gets hit with the glazing jack. Shell Cordovan is also glazed, as obviously shoe leather needs to be smooth. That's why many jacket makers deride the use of CXL in a jacket as using "shoe leather."

I do think that the Vincenza, even though it starts smooth, will pick up a ton of grain over time. I have a new steerhide jacket made from Horween Essex that is pretty smooth to start, but in a couple spots where it was flexed a lot during construction, the grain is popping already. I think that anything that starts with a full grain hide will eventually exhibit beautiful grain. See below:

Purists don't like anything being done to the surface of a hide and still calling it Full Grain. Horween sells so many types of leather but they list CXL as full grain, even though it gets hit with the glazing jack. Shell Cordovan is also glazed, as obviously shoe leather needs to be smooth. That's why many jacket makers deride the use of CXL in a jacket as using "shoe leather."

I do think that the Vincenza, even though it starts smooth, will pick up a ton of grain over time. I have a new steerhide jacket made from Horween Essex that is pretty smooth to start, but in a couple spots where it was flexed a lot during construction, the grain is popping already. I think that anything that starts with a full grain hide will eventually exhibit beautiful grain. See below:

1) I agree with you re. the grain. If you wear any jacket enough, the grain will show.

2) I am thinking of all the makers I know, in any specialty, and I can't of a single one who isn't ornery. It just seems to come with the territory.

1) I agree with you re. the grain. If you wear any jacket enough, the grain will show.
2) I am thinking of all the makers I know, in any specialty, and I can't of a single one who isn't ornery. It just seems to come with the territory.

How much should I be paying for a good quality black full leather bomber jacket? Good quality as in it'll stand up to the test of time while not being super heavy. Obviously fit will vary depending on the person, but slim fit would be great.

I've read before that anything under USD1000 should be taken off the list. While I don't know the veracity of that, I've tried some mainstream brands' leather jackets previously that were pretty disappointing.

How much should I be paying for a good quality black full leather bomber jacket? Good quality as in it'll stand up to the test of time while not being super heavy. Obviously fit will vary depending on the person, but slim fit would be great.

I've read before that anything under USD1000 should be taken off the list. While I don't know the veracity of that, I've tried some mainstream brands' leather jackets previously that were pretty disappointing.

Recommendations would be great too. Thanks!

You can look into falcon garments for a m2m jacket for under a grand. I've never had their jackets, but I did have their predecessor's...

How much should I be paying for a good quality black full leather bomber jacket?... I've read before that anything under USD1000 should be taken off the list. While I don't know the veracity of that, I've tried some mainstream brands' leather jackets previously that were pretty disappointing.

Related to this Q - does anyone have any thoughts on quality of Gucci leather jackets? Pricing I saw at the shop the other day was about USD1700 (i.e. 50% off), and fits well. Seems like good quality but not a leather jacket expert by any means.

The mainstream labels I've seen (Burberry in particular) at a similar price point have been at best mediocre. Gucci seems like a step up in quality though clearly I wouldn't buy at RRP.

There's so many labels out there - so am happy to take recommendations for any price point of leather jackets as well

@ebayhtl I've owned and handled a few leather jackets from various makers over the years, but I'm not a expert or anything. So take this with a grain of salt, but I tried an electric blue double rider at a Gucci boutique a few months ago and it felt very, very nice. The stitching was perfect, the leather was soft to the touch but very substantial and the hardware looked and felt top quality. It was around $AUD6,000 though, so it'd want to be good. No idea if that anecdote translates to the jacket you were interested in, however.