I just purchased my first Speed Graphic on that big auction site. From the photos the camera looks to be in EX+ condition, but the description says "The rails on the camera are completely broken and stripped. the camera does not focus."

I know I should be patient and wait until I actually have the camera, but here I am anyway. My question is how likely is it that the rails are actually stripped? Could this be a misunderstanding of how the camera should work? The seller is not a 'camera person' if I can judge by the other things they are auctioning, so they got it somewhere and are probably just flipping it for a quick buck.

Follow-on question. In the event the rails are stripped, how tough is that to repair? Could I get just a set of rails somewhere? I'll know more in a couple of days, but I just wanted to scope out the landscape and see what I might be in for.

Thanks,
J--_________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

I looked at the pictures in the auction. Read and study
http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/graflex_5.html
(you have to save each page separately).
When you get it if it does not function correctly consider sending it up to me for repair as the bed and rail assembly is not easy to get correct._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

The rails on a Speed that the front standard ride on
are smooth so the seller might have mistaken that for
worn pinion rack, the actual rack and pinion for the rail
is underneath the rail, you can see it by looking at the
left side of the rail with the camera facing you when you get it.

It looks like, from 45PSS's link that the Pacemaker is
similar to my Anniversary and has a little lever that locks
the rail, that could be misadjusted and too tight to rack out the rail.

So I got the camera. As I suspected, there is nothing 'stripped'. The front standard had come out of the guides in the yolk assembly. There is however a problem. The bed guides that are inside the body (the short ones) have broken and are no longer holding that part of the yolk assembly, so it is all loosey goosey inside the body. I imagine it is difficult finding just the bed guides, so I will look for a bed assembly unless 45PSS can repair this part.

Also the top slide lock on the Graflok back is broken, so that is too loose to hold the film holder tight.

There was a nice surprise in the box. I got a Kodak Flash Supermatic shutter with an Ektar f/7.7 203mm lens in it. The lens has a filter adapter "Kodak Series VI Adapter Ring 15/16 in. So that will be nice for a medium telephoto.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
J--_________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

So I got the camera. As I suspected, there is nothing 'stripped'. The front standard had come out of the guides in the yolk assembly. There is however a problem. The bed guides that are inside the body (the short ones) have broken and are no longer holding that part of the yolk assembly, so it is all loosey goosey inside the body.
J--

Typical problem caused by failure to run the front standard all the way back into the camera box before closing the "front door"---that'll bend those short rails every time. I made that mistake right off when my Century was "new," so I carefully straightened the short rails and added brass washers under the front screw heads (one on each side) to prevent bending the rails. Plus, having learned my lesson (I hope), I've been very careful not to repeat the mistake.

The yolk *would* tend to make things a bit messy in there. Try substituting a yoke next time

Ack! Good tip on the 'yolk'. I was looking right at the word in the repair manual too. That will teach me to post before breakfast!

Anyway, here is a pic of the right bed block. The part that is forward of the first screw is broken off. I don't think that is causing any problems. The trouble is that the part that makes the groove for the 'yoke' to sit in is mostly broken and doesn't hold the yoke in place anymore.

Here is the upper slide lock with a film pack adapter inserted.

Thanks all,
J--_________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

The case section guides are made of wood so I should be able to make them.

The focus panel arm might be repairable by someone who welds or brazes.

Remove the arm(s) from the frame and check around or find another focus panel. I can silver solder it but I doubt it would hold as those springs are very stout and may be corroded causing the failure._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

Does anyone think that JB Weld would work to fix the slide lock? I have a welder who is willing to look at it and try a TIG weld, but it is a really long drive, so if I could do it myself that would be preferable.

Thoughts??

J--_________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

No. It will hold it in place but separate when inserting a film holder. The springs have 15 to 20 pounds of pull._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I'm going to second what 45spss said search ebay for a new back with
good slide locks, you may also find the inside rails too.
I've seen a quite a few Speed Graphic parts recently.

Welding may actually weaken that part, and taking it out would be a
chore since you'll have to wrestle with that spring.
Nothing glued will hold as 45spss said, contrary to what JB Weld says it's
product can do.

Instructions for disassembly of the back are on PDF pages 11 & 12 (manual pages 9 & 10).

Another possible repair, drill and tap upper arm center of the arm's shaft and the broken piece in two places about 1/8 inch apart and from broken spot. Make a plate to match the arm from .030 to .050 brass and attach with screws. JB Weld can be applied between the plate and arm assist in holding the arm._________________The best camera ever made is the one that YOU enjoy using and produces the image quality that satifies YOU.

I already have it apart. I don't suppose that welding will make the part any weaker than it is now (broken). So I will give that a go before buying an entire back for $170 to get that one part. The camera still functions, just a little looser than I would like so I end up holding the back when I trip the shutter. I will let the welder have his way and if it breaks again, I will look at other options and I'll keep my eye on ebay for a junker back with the slide locks intact. Thanks for the advice on this.

J--_________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”

I saw the rails, but my rails are just fine. The black pieces under the rails are broken so that the rails aren't attached to the body anymore. Thanks for the link._________________“When you photograph people in color, you photograph their clothes. But when you photograph people in Black and white, you photograph their souls!”