Mad Rock1. Flash. Gave them away for free they were so crap. They stretched more than a full size (I have size 8.5 sneaker size and new owner wears a 10 and they fit him), the rubber didn't stick to glue, they couldn'e edge properly, smear, heelhook (baggy heel or maybe just too big shoe?). The rubber lasted well, mainly due to the common tradeoff between stickyness/durability. They were cheap. They are made in China (Vietnam now?), cheaply. Overall score: crap

Evolv1. Defy. They were cheap too. They were made in China too (designed in the USA haha). The rubber was MUCH sticker than the Flashes. They smelled really bad, because they were synthetic and didn't breathe well at all. Made my feet really sweaty, but didn't stretch much at all. They did mold to the shape of my foot though since they are pretty soft shoes. Edged OK, smeared well, heelhook ok (the heel is less baggy than the MR Flash). They were cheap. Very comfy. Overall score: pretty good/great for cheap shoes.2. PontasThey were less cheap, around R1000. Smell really bad, as bad as the Defy. Doesn't strech much at all. Does mold, but not around the big toe since it has a big patch of rubber right on the knuckle of your toe. If they hurt a bit when you first try them on, they'll hurt like that forever. Edge well, smear well, heelhook better than the Defy. Rubber is not the stickiest around but agian pretty durable, lasted longer than the Defy. Made in China as well. Not so comfy when sized tight - inside of the shoe is unlined. Overall score: OK, but I'd spend slightly more and get a lot better shoe.

La Sportiva1. ScorpionMade in China, they were cheap. No foul smell since they have a leather upper that breathes nicely. Nice sticky Vibram rubber that didn't last particularly long. Were very comfy on everything except hand-to-fist size crack, had lots of long trad days and they were great. Soft lined upper. Not the most agressive shoe. Over score: Pretty good.2. MantisSame as the Scorpion, really. Just Velcro. Bit of leather tore in the back (where the pull tabs attach). Drifters sent it back and it got fixed for free. Good customer service La Sportiva SA.3. MuiraMade in Italy. Bit more pricy. Absolutely the best all round shoe I have worn. Precise, sticky, sensitive. Heel is tight, so heelhooking is good. I sized them TIGHT. They stretched ever so slightly. Not painful at all to wear now but they feel like my pair was made for my feet. The rubber is less durable than the Evolv Pontas but WAY more sitcky. 'Strue. Sport climbing - awesome. Long slabby multipitch - awesome! Bouldering - yup they are awesome. All day trad - OK, better get something very comfy rather. Very pointy toe. I'll buy these shoes again and again and again. Overall score: 10/104. SolutionMade in Italy. Pricy as well. Best agressive shoe I've worn. What you need if you want to PULL with your toes. Awesome for overhanging limestone, pockets. Very pointy toe. Rubber is sticky as hell. I sized them a half size bigger than my Muiras. Not for anything longer than 1 pitch at a time since they contort your foot into a rather downturned aggressive shape. Perfect for bouldering. They are specialized tools and I love them. Overall: 9/10

I've been hunting for a review on the Saltic Bongo's but cant find one anywhere. I tried a pair on (3yrs old) and they fitted pretty amazingly. Any idea on the stretch etc on Bongo's? cause if im buying a new pair i want them to fit like the pair i tried on and since durban has nowhere that stocks shoes i kinda have to know what i'm ordering before i order it.

Also, do you know of any gym shoes (less pricey) that have the same shape/fit as the Bongo's and Vampir's. Cause im looking at getting Bongo's for sending and then tryna find some new gym shoes that i can destroy. (I have evolv Defy's at the moment and they suck. bad.)

yoI still own a pair of saltic guru's and would choose them above any shoe!!!!supper comfy not to much cosmetics and really aggressive, catch is they are not available in the country any-more!thus my saltic's are called the old faithfulls and had them resoled...never the same again worst idea!!!!

using la sportiva cobras tight squeeze they stretch a bit but nice and responsive!!really enjoying them.between the batch i've climbed with, montrail, la sportiva, five ten, evolve and saltic i must say i would go saltic or sportiva!!!depend what fits you!!!!

can i just say.... bongos are THE S#*T! i love mine! i got a really tight pair, and i wouldn't say they stretched, but more "moulded" to my feet. i have heard the rubber doesn't last long, but i use mine indoor twice a week and they are only just starting to show some wear, and i think i have had them about a year and a half...

P.S I have quite broad feet near the toes and a pretty narrow heel... they fit like a glove

_________________remember the days when sex was safe and climbing was dangerous

I agree with Brendon on the Bongos. I usually don't go for lace ups, but I'm really happy with these shoes. I think Brendon has the right idea by giving his foot type. I have the same shape foot: high bridge, wide in the front, narrow heel.

To help adding a bit of fact to opinion and help the reader to get the right idea of what shoe would fit, list your best fitting shoe aswell as your foot type/shape...don't be shy, most of us have cheesecurls for toes anyway

I've only used the bongos outside and I have no comlaints. I've never climbed in super high-end shoes, so maybe my opinion doesn't count, but the haven't let me down yet. I was working a route with a particularly small, crucial foot grip and after repeatedly working this foot grip, the shoe did show a bit of wear, but I don't think anything excessive. That's about as much info as I can give.

The shape of the foot is what counts, somebody can rave about a shoe but if it doesnt fit your foot its crap. My feet are narrow and flat and find only few shoes which fit snugg.

Evolv Demorto - good fit, yes a bit smelly as mentined before but easy to wash since it's not leather, to my knowledge the new models are now leather though.

Also worn some czech made shoes (triop) which fitted well but rubber was not sticky, now have new pair and rubber seems improved (not tested properly yet)

About the Saltic the guys are correct with their foot description, was able to get a few pairs for "mahala" but do not fit me at all, can't tighten them enough (lase boards touch each other) and edging was a disaster as shoes twist around my foot. Neverteless I gave the shoes back and told the budy of mine to make somebody else happy with them.

Cheers,

W

_________________Climbing Off route doesn't exist; it's called a first ascent!

I agree with Justin, see what fits your feet. It's no use buying shoes because someone told you that they were the most comfortable shoes in the world, try them out for yourself. Better yet, get the help of an experienced shop assistant to help you fit a range of shoes across a range of brands (It's in my financial interest for you to buy Mad Rock or Edelrid, but I'd rather see you having fun at the crag than buying an ill-fitted pair of shoes). You might climb harder than anyone in the shop, but they fit way more shoes than you do!

If it fits your foot, the Evolv Talon G2 is the best shoe for sport, boulder and indoor climbing above Gr 22.

It is an aggressive, slip on shoe with laces. It molds to your foot really well and the rubber is sensitive enough that you can feel the rock you are stepping on.

Evolv took the old Talon, which was pretty amazing already, and turned it into a the most flawless aggressive shoe known to man. It has an extra 2 mils of rubber on the toe so it's gonna last and the heel grabs onto your foot like that hobo last week at the robot that grabbed onto my small change.

...Better yet, get the help of an experienced shop assistant to help you fit a range of shoes across a range of brands...

My problem (as with all durbanites) is that there are NO shops here. Theres only Bush and Bundu in PMB and as the guy there said, they only stock what they "see as good value for money shoes"...which means they have Evolve and thats all.

We retailers in SA are being forced more and more to where customers gets the BEST deal. Thats a good thing. Due to 'hellkom' and various numerous companies who just p1$$ all over customer service, we now have to get our act together and serve customers better.

That's the strongest climber you could find wearing Mad Rocks ey? Take nothing away from Joe Mohle - I have a lot of Respect (with a capital R) for Joe - modern hardman par excellance, I reckon he's climbing harder than anyone in SA (yes it's harder to onsight FA 25 on trad than it is to climb 34 clipping bolts)

But this:

As I said dude, just personal opinion. I had a pair of Mad Rocks they sucked so badly I won't buy them again. Finish and klaar

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