Liver and Onions from the Black Hoof

In this creamy, refined version of liver and onions, ethereal duck liver mousse pairs with caramelized cipolline onions and mushrooms.Ingalls Photography

Before visiting Toronto's The Black Hoof, I had yet to meet a liver and onions dish I could truly love. That changed when a bowl arrived at the table: a tangle of braised mushrooms, miniature caramelized whole cipolline onions, and in place of the typical pan-fried calf's liver, a thick swoosh of light, creamy duck liver pâté. Simple, classy, superb. I fell hard.