Can someone please share the differences between the Singxer F1, SU-1 and the Matrix spdif 2?

They all look the same from here, except for the i2s output from the last two. There must be more to these DDCs that creates value.

Thanks,

Larry

Ok Singxer F-1 vs SU-1 first: Same basic design with the SU-1 having i2s output. The SU-1 also has slightly better on board LDO's then the F-1. Big downside - the built in SU-1 medicore LPS. The F-1 can easily be powered by a LT3045.Now the SU-1 can be modded to bypass it's built in LPS with the Kitsune DC kit. That then opens it up to ext dc power (a must if you own this IMO).

Now the Matrix SPDIF-2 has much better LDO's then the Singxers, better clocks as well (Accusilicon vs Cryteks). Also has stock a dc power port.

This is the biggest difference - Custom FPGA for processing, and no Mornsun DC to DC switcher!

Quote:

Multi-level LDOThe power supply units of X-SPDIF 2 are constructed by multi-level, multi-group LDOs and solid capacitors, they can filter out the superimposed noise from power supply effectively. All the circuit powered by low noise or ultra-low noise LDO, which avoided the hi-frequency switch noise caused by DC/DC circuit. You also can obtain high quality power from USB bus.

Configurable IIS PortX-SPDIF 2 support different standard of IIS, it can compatible for different devices by configuring the IIS definition switch. The DoP converting function transcode DoP audio stream to native DSD stream output from IIS port.

After seeing @lmitche recommendation to bypass the power from the IR to the F-1 by way of USB power injector (AQVOX) - I thought why not get the new iFi Gemini3.0 USB cable instead of the Mercury to try. This has a split power/data USB input.

I'd use this in place of the USPCB adapter and could then inject 5VDC by LT3045 directly to the F-1. But I see that the Gemini uses a USB 3.0 B plug and that won't fit into the F-1 - but hoping the iPur2 would work, as it has a USB3.0 B socket on the input and a USB2.0 B plug on the output it could have solved that problem.

You do not need spend that damn money to get inject clean power to F-1, you can make one for free. I believe you have everything in your hand, you need justshort USB hard adapter(coming with RUR), couple of inches silver hook-up wire, DC power socket, crazy glue and electrical tape to keep everything together. Look ugly, sounding awesome. With your DIY skills,no problem.Cut outside black plastic cover horizontally, to get out inside white plastic shell, with wires, destroy to left only metal USB A-B connectors. Rewire with hook-up wire + and - signal path between connectors and connect with wires DC socket to only F-1 USB connector side to inject clean power. Reglue black outside plastic cover back between connectors to keep everything together, with DC socket out. Secure DC socket to adapter with electrical tape. I am using this DIY adapter between my microrendu and F-1, with powering Singxer F-1 from two in series LT-3045, boards. This also let my powering microrendu from another LT3045 board.

It is nice see you around again, your never ending enthusiasm bring life back to this thread!

From there attention should be paid to the DC cable between the last LT3045 and the device being powered. My best results have been from using a very short (6 inch) 16awg silver/teflon wire twisted into a star quad configuration with passive (no connected to ground) tinned copper braid outer shielding. Switchcraft high end 2.1mm plugs.

If you are powering more then one device per LPS, say out of the TeraDak DC-30W the Ghent Audio twin (split) DC cable is great choice. Then use a LT3045 box right before the device being powered by that 6 inch shielded Silver/Teflon DC cable.https://ghentaudio.com/part/dc13.html

Sounds like very good advice. I have something like 7 or 8 different Ghent Audio cables connecting DC power between my two TeraDak 30W LPSs, my 4 LT3045 boxes (3 dual in-series 0.5A boxes and one single board 1A box), and the devices in my USB chain. These all have star quad cables inside, and I think I did notice a nice SQ improvement when I added them. I've also noticed far fewer instances of the chain stopping working -- these seem to be very high quality cables with good connections. And I got them all as short as possible, so hopefully that helps too.

I really appreciate your explication re: adding a third or fourth LT3045 board in series.

And it sounds like you're now seeing a further SQ improvement from replacing the RuR with an Iso Regen? At $325 an Iso Regen isn't cheap, but I'll mentally put that on the shelf as a potential future acquisition. You had some problems at first getting the Iso Regen to work in the chain, is there something that needs to be done right to get it to work?

After seeing @lmitche recommendation to bypass the power from the IR to the F-1 by way of USB power injector (AQVOX) - I thought why not get the new iFi Gemini3.0 USB cable instead of the Mercury to try. This has a split power/data USB input.

I'd use this in place of the USPCB adapter and could then inject 5VDC by LT3045 directly to the F-1. But I see that the Gemini uses a USB 3.0 B plug and that won't fit into the F-1 - but hoping the iPur2 would work, as it has a USB3.0 B socket on the input and a USB2.0 B plug on the output it could have solved that problem.

You do not need spend that damn money to get inject clean power to F-1, you can make one for free. I believe you have everything in your hand, you need justshort USB hard adapter(coming with RUR), couple of inches silver hook-up wire, DC power socket, crazy glue and electrical tape to keep everything together. Look ugly, sounding awesome. With your DIY skills,no problem.Cut outside black plastic cover horizontally, to get out inside white plastic shell, with wires, destroy to left only metal USB A-B connectors. Rewire with hook-up wire + and - signal path between connectors and connect with wires DC socket to only F-1 USB connector side to inject clean power. Reglue black outside plastic cover back between connectors to keep everything together, with DC socket out. Secure DC socket to adapter with electrical tape. I am using this DIY adapter between my microrendu and F-1, with powering Singxer F-1 from two in series LT-3045, boards. This also let my powering microrendu from another LT3045 board.

It is nice see you around again, your never ending enthusiasm bring life back to this thread!

Hi, Well I'm really happy with the SQ right now just running through the IR. But it'll all be a mute point with the Matrix SPDIF-2 coming.

If the F-1 were to stay I would bypass the USB power input entirely and remove that awful Mornsun DC to DC switcher and power the 'clean' and 'dirty' side of the F-1 separately. This can be done with a relatively easy mod. See @bObb posts on my old HF XU208 thread.

Singxer really needs to up their game (better LDO's!) to stay competitive. Or go the way of Musiland, Gustard, Melodious, & Breeze.

Sounds like very good advice. I have something like 7 or 8 different Ghent Audio cables connecting DC power between my two TeraDak 30W LPSs, my 4 LT3045 boxes (3 dual in-series 0.5A boxes and one single board 1A box), and the devices in my USB chain. These all have star quad cables inside, and I think I did notice a nice SQ improvement when I added them. I've also noticed far fewer instances of the chain stopping working -- these seem to be very high quality cables with good connections. And I got them all as short as possible, so hopefully that helps too.

I really appreciate your explication re: adding a third or fourth LT3045 board in series.

And it sounds like you're now seeing a further SQ improvement from replacing the RuR with an Iso Regen? At $325 an Iso Regen isn't cheap, but I'll mentally put that on the shelf as a potential future acquisition. You had some problems at first getting the Iso Regen to work in the chain, is there something that needs to be done right to get it to work?

Good to hear you have had a similar experience in using better shielded DC cables.

So far the best SQ is with the Startech/ICRON, then the IR, the iGal, then the RuR - that is all as single devices used alone.

In combination, so far the Startech/ICRON+IR is the best. Now with the Startech/ICRON>iPur2>IR even better. With 24 hours of run time the SQ has settled in and smoothed out. Very nice.

That said for around $135, a used the RuR is excellent (used with the ICRON for GI) and much less troublesome then the IR. But if you want the best gotta get the IR.

A few more days then the iDefender will enter the picture. It can be used in a number of places, including right out of the IR with and without ext 5VDC DC power. In my trials with the RuR I preferred the SQ without ext power (even LT3045 power), with the IR we will see if it will even work, then the SQ differences.

After seeing @lmitche recommendation to bypass the power from the IR to the F-1 by way of USB power injector (AQVOX) - I thought why not get the new iFi Gemini3.0 USB cable instead of the Mercury to try. This has a split power/data USB input.

I'd use this in place of the USPCB adapter and could then inject 5VDC by LT3045 directly to the F-1. But I see that the Gemini uses a USB 3.0 B plug and that won't fit into the F-1 - but hoping the iPur2 would work, as it has a USB3.0 B socket on the input and a USB2.0 B plug on the output it could have solved that problem.

You do not need spend that damn money to get inject clean power to F-1, you can make one for free. I believe you have everything in your hand, you need justshort USB hard adapter(coming with RUR), couple of inches silver hook-up wire, DC power socket, crazy glue and electrical tape to keep everything together. Look ugly, sounding awesome. With your DIY skills,no problem.Cut outside black plastic cover horizontally, to get out inside white plastic shell, with wires, destroy to left only metal USB A-B connectors. Rewire with hook-up wire + and - signal path between connectors and connect with wires DC socket to only F-1 USB connector side to inject clean power. Reglue black outside plastic cover back between connectors to keep everything together, with DC socket out. Secure DC socket to adapter with electrical tape. I am using this DIY adapter between my microrendu and F-1, with powering Singxer F-1 from two in series LT-3045, boards. This also let my powering microrendu from another LT3045 board.

It is nice see you around again, your never ending enthusiasm bring life back to this thread!

Or you can modify the USPCB and tell Alex that it was lost in the mail! LOL.....

Love the positive energy here! Bob is the supermassive BH drawing in all the latest toys, info and cool DIY people, and then the quasar lights. I'd love to see John Swenson here someday, but let's hope he's building new toys for us as well as that high tech power supply measurement device. So many questions for all, will have go back 20 pages and compile them.

Bob, have you considered trying the RuR before the LEX? I saw someone online who had IR> USPCB> Lex/Rex> USPCB> IR> F1.

Have you seen the "new" (according to Mouser) caps from Nichicon, UFW? Similar but slightly better specs than UHW. I bought 2 DC-30W and put HW in one and FW in the other and was able to get larger values in it too. The single 2500uF had to stand up 1/2inch on it's leads, but the 5600uF x4 fit perfectly. I've enjoyed that upgrade, and someday, I'll do a side by side comparison.

I'm really interested in optane on a native M.2, I read it was coming soon.

Re parallel 3045, I had the idea of buying about 30 of the level setting resisters and hand matching the output of board to better balance the power sharing. If that was workable, would it be possible to put 6x 3045 S (5A) and power a small MB?

Sound quality = excellent. I found the Matrix to be both warmer AND more detailed, with a great sound stage. When it arrived I had some friends over and we were comparing my Border Patrol SE DAC to their Audio Note 2.1 and 4.1 Balanced. We did some comparisons of the F1 vs the Matrix and it was a very easy decision to keep the Matrix in circuit.

Over the last three weeks I have been concentrating on the Audio Acoustics of my room, to great effect; and, playing with my speaker setup, which has also gone well.

Thx for the reports. I will keep an eye on the IR and keep my powder dry until you have got the Matrix in place and formulated your preferred running order.

I contacted IFI about the AC purifier but they don't sell it in the UK, probably less selling points as we don't have any choice about our polarity. I am interested in this as there are a number of passive power cleaners in the market, which you can buy and listen to for an extended period before returning if they fail to meet expectations, your positive report of an active widget is interesting.

"On parallel 3045, I had the idea of buying about 30 of the level setting resisters and hand matching the output of board to better balance the power sharing. If that was workable, would it be possible to put 6x 3045 S (5A) and power a small MB?"

Alexey did a brilliant posting on how to parallel his Lt3045 boards here:

Love the positive energy here! Bob is the supermassive BH drawing in all the latest toys, info and cool DIY people, and then the quasar lights. I'd love to see John Swenson here someday, but let's hope he's building new toys for us as well as that high tech power supply measurement device. So many questions for all, will have go back 20 pages and compile them.

Thanks! The thread is better then ever - thanks to all you smart posters - what I had hoped for when leaving HF. I quoted 300,000 I think two weeks ago - since then added another 12,819! For a off the beaten trail audio blog - pretty amazing!

Quote:

Bob, have you considered trying the RuR before the LEX? I saw someone online who had IR> USPCB> Lex/Rex> USPCB> IR> F1.

Wow and I thought my chain was over the top. Two IR's! Well my experience is before the LEX is no where as critical as after the REX. I did have a PPA V2 USB card fed by a LPS to the LEX. But when going straight to the PC USB port heard no difference - so sold the PPA V2. I do run a 2G to the LEX with the power leg from a 500mA LT3045 5VDC. I should try the iPur2 into the LEX just to hear the difference and will if I can find another used at a good price. Note I had also a modded JB(VBUS blocker) right at the PC USB port (and another at the REX output) - but for testing purposes have set those on the side for now. That made as slight difference. Doubt the IR would play nice with them. But I will try the iDef there before moving it up chain. My son now has my RuR - starting to build his system.

Quote:

Have you seen the "new" (according to Mouser) caps from Nichicon, UFW? Similar but slightly better specs than UHW. I bought 2 DC-30W and put HW in one and FW in the other and was able to get larger values in it too. The single 2500uF had to stand up 1/2inch on it's leads, but the 5600uF x4 fit perfectly. I've enjoyed that upgrade, and someday, I'll do a side by side comparison.

I have used the FG's before (in my DAC mod project) they aren't new but have been around along time. The HW is superiro in every way - for example on a 4700uf@25V cap (the big ones in the new TeraDak DC-30w design) -the HW has a 10,000@105c life rating vs the FG's 2,000@85c. The HW PSRR is much higher 3.2A@120Hz vs the FG 2.36@120Hz. More important the high freq PSRR of the HW is vastly better 4A@100kHz vs 2.7A at only 10kHz. As far as impedance the HW has some of the lowest available at 11mOhms - Nichicon does not even quote an impedance rating for the FG's. Comparing the SQ of the two I have to say I love the HW! Esp in the DC-30W touch.

I hesitate to use larger caps in any circuit - unless there was an inadvertent design error. I stay with the values (if available) that the engineer designed for.

Quote:

I'm really interested in optane on a native M.2, I read it was coming soon.

Re parallel 3045, I had the idea of buying about 30 of the level setting resisters and hand matching the output of board to better balance the power sharing. If that was workable, would it be possible to put 6x 3045 S (5A) and power a small MB?

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