The restaurant focuses on sourcing high-quality meats devoid of hormones, antibiotics, and all the bad stuff. Produce is sourced locally, as much as possible (it is currently trying to expand its local provisions); and most of the menu items, including the namesake bao buns ($8 to $10) and the pork dumplings ($9), are made from scratch.

Dishes span across East Asia with a wide selection of piquant items available in small-plate, rice, salad, soup, bao buns, and large-plate options.

Soups include a variation of Tokyo ramen noodle soup ($12) with pork belly, slow-poached egg, and fish cake as well as sake steamed clams ($13) in a broth of ginger and miso served with togarashi crostini.

Even though the pungent food is reason enough for a visit, the atmosphere and specials are a worthwhile mention.

Set in the old space of Wild East, the indoor/outdoor restaurant offers a comfortable interior with warm imported Indonesian woods, multiple bars, and relaxed booths. Outside, a covered patio and dock overlook the serene adjacent canal.