The Pig’s Ear is a restaurant that essentially does two things. It showcases great Irish produce and its cooking is firmly rooted in the culinary tradition of these islands. I can’t think of anywhere else in Dublin that does precisely this, which is rather a shame. I suspect the reason is that it’s not easy. It takes a bit of vision, commitment and effort. My two last visits were with Nick Lander of the Financial Times and Trish Deseine of French food fame. We had a ball.