Salumeria's porchetta should be called "pork fattington." As with Wellington, this version has a center of meat, but rather than beef surrounded by duxelle and pastry, pork loin is embraced by the fat of pork belly. The porchetta is rubbed with garlic, rosemary, and seasoning and then roasted for five hours — but the center coin of loin was too small and dry, and though the rim of belly around it was perfectly crisped on the outside, there was no strip of meat within it. Cleanly roasted potatoes and Brussels sprouts filled the plate out in tasty fashion.

The shortlist of desserts includes tiramisu, apple strudel, and salami di cioccolato, the last featuring sausage-mimicking slices of ganache-like chocolate dotted with white chocolate. It makes for a nice after-dinner bite, like a petit four, but for the same cost ($7), you can get a heavenly little wedge of fresh, soft almond cake — dusted with confectioner's sugar and sided by a dish of vanilla ice cream.

Portions here are modest, and so are prices. A small salumi platter is $14, soup is $5, salads are $7 to $8, pastas $13 to $15, and entrées $16 to $20.

Indeed, Salumeria 104 is rather modest in its scope as well. It aims to provide a limited array of charcuterie with affordable regional Italian foods and wines in a setting that invites dropping by for a casual drink and snack. On all of those fronts, it succeeds.

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