> Ben L. writes: >> By the way, what is meant by "interference fit".
>
> Can be pushed on by hand, but will not drop on. Has a slight
> interference, but not enough to necessitate the use of a press.

Actually AFAIK an interferance fit is any fit tighter than zero
clearance. It's well known in my trade that "some" clearance is
necessary to even fit two parts together by hand so even a tight hand
fit is still non-interferance, technically. If two parts are
designed to mate, the print would indicate an interferance fit by
keeping the upper limit on the female part smaller than the lower
limit on the male part. If they are the same it's a zero clearance
fit and if the male part is smaller than the female part it is a slip
fit.

Normally you never see a zero clearance fit on a print but
technically it's possible to do, just not too many instances where it
is preferable over slip or interferance type fits so usually one or
the other is specivied by the tollerancing on the print.

The term interferance simply means that something is in the way, with
zero clearance fits, nothing is really in the way but you still can't
put them together by hand usually because you can't keep the axis of
the two parts properly aligned by hand so they bind when you apply
pressure :-)

>I have a '73 F250 Ranger and would like to have brighter dash lights. I
>have seen the posts on making headlights brighter. Would the same
>principle apply to the dash lights? I have had the assembly out of the
>dash and have cleaned the contacts, but it made no difference in the
>brightness. At the edge of dark it is difficult to see what is going on
>with the gauges.
>
The first thing to do is jump the dimmer in the headlight switch. All you
have to do is find the wire coming out of the switch for parking lights and
the one coming out for dash lights and put a wire tap between them. This
will give full voltage to your dash lights. If that is not bright enough,
you may have to try higher wattage bulbs, but this can melt the plastic
inside the gauges due to the increased heat.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

>Steve D writes: >>I saw some datsun Z's that had a blower (looked like a
>small heater blower) that were set up to blow cool air from the outside
>world onto the top of the motor where the EFI stuff was.
>
>Ahem. As the (self-appointed) FTE defender of the Z, I find this one
>interesting. True Z's (not ZX's) never had such an item. However, I think
>you will find that if any later (ZX's) were rigged this way, they were
>probably turbo units, and the blower was used to evacuate hot air from the
>turbo, which sits near the FI, to the outside air, used as an addition to
>the large passive vent they already had in the hood for just that reason.
>The same could be true for on later 280Z which had non-functional vents in
>the hood that could easily be made functional. Even on the original Z's the
>service bulletin fix for heat collecting in the engine bay was to start
>cutting holes to get inside air above the intake out (then pop-rivet on some
>funky "race-inspired" duct-looking plastic disguise) to avoid vapor lock.
>
Uh-oh, we have a debate. I also have seen the blower that Steve discusses.
I think you are correct that is is on the 280ZX, not the Z, but the
non-turbo models had it too. The duct ran over the valve cover and then
spread out over the intake manifold. I never investigated if it was
pushing or pulling. The duct and the fan motor were black. The fan motor
is mounted on the right side of the engine. On the L28 motors the intake
and exhaust are on the left side, so the ducting was plastic and kind of
flat rectangular shaped as it went over the valve cover, then split out to
about 4 openings right over the injectors.
_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!

Thanks for your message at 06:47 PM 7/23/98 EDT, A64F100 aol.com. Your
message was:
>Hello everybody, well, I've finally got the 460 back together after many
>little problems slowing me down, but there's just one more little problem
that
>I can't figure out. The problem is that the engine is missing and kind of
>sputtering. It misses and sputters at idle and through the RPM range. The
idle
>isn't solid, or any other RPM for that matter, it makes the tach bounce up
and
>down about a couple hundred RPMs. I've tried adjusting the timing, and I can
>smooth it a little bit but it still idles jerkily. This engine is equipped
>with the duraspark elec.ignition and the Duraspark box is brand new, but I
>don't know what else it could be. Suggestions?? Oh, BTW, I just re adjusted
>all the valves and made sure they were right, and that still didn't change
the
>problem.
>
Are you sure your plug wires are in the right order? Sounds like reversed
or mixed up plug wires IMHO.
Dennis L. Pearson
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Nils Gore writes: >>I have (I suspect) the original rims on my 64, and the
backside of the lip has enough rust on it that the tires won't hold a seal
without a tube. This is surface rust, not bad enough to hurt the strength
of the rim.

I like the look of the rims (smooth face type for baby moon hubcaps), and
haven't yet found new ones around here. So for now, I'd like to keep them.

Any thoughts?

Sand blast and repaint rims!!!! Bet you can seal them then.
For some unknown reason to me, the tire mfg's do not recommend putting
tubes in tubeless tires.

Some posts have raised the question - what's the difference? I only
know about the '78-'79's two wheel drives, but I suspect this applies to
many other model years also. Since I'm in the middle of swapping F250
parts to a 150 I've hands-on experience with the different parts. The
150 has a Ford 9" axle (rated at under 4,000#) with 2 and a fraction
wide drum brakes. The 250 (and this is a light-duty 250) has a Dana 61
(rated at around 6,000#) full-floating axle with 3" wide brake shoes.
The drive shaft is larger in diameter and uses larger U-joints. (The
center bearing is identical.) The rear leaf springs are 4 inches wide
instead of 3 and a fraction and they are thicker leafs. The spring
mounts are wider to match and of much heavier guage steel. The front
springs are slightly heavier guage. The wheels are 16.5 with 8 lug
bolts , as opposed to 15 with 5. The larger tires have a substantially
higher weight rating. The front brakes are identical on these two. The
master cylinder has a slightly larger bore on the F250.

In looking at other trucks, I've learned a bit more: The heavy-duty
F250's and 350's had a totally different front spring tower and bigger
disk brake setup. F350's get the Dana 70 full-floating axle (rated at
over 8,000#). Camper Specials and Towing Specials got better cooling
packages (more radiator and fan), sway bars on both ends, helper springs
on the back (I don't know for sure on the front.) If F250 they would be
the heavier model. They got the biggest engines, 400 or 460. I suspect
C6 transmissions were standard. The rear axle ratios tended to be
higher (numerically). There were probably some other differences.

If I were looking for a strong Ford truck to buy to start working on, I
would definitely start with a "Special". It already has the good stuff
on it, and the GVWR to go with it. Plus in California, that high GVWR
comes with much less smog equipment.

So why am I doing all this work on my truck? I'm cheap and stupid.
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>
>Sand blast and repaint rims!!!! Bet you can seal them then.
>For some unknown reason to me, the tire mfg's do not recommend putting
>tubes in tubeless tires.
>
"Snake Bites!" That's where the tube gets pinched/rubbed by the flexing
tire, and then it eventually cuts. Happens esp. if you drive on bumpy
roads with anything less than really really hard tires. Happens all the
time on my mountain bike.

Steve D wrote:
>>I saw some datsun Z's that had a blower (looked like a

To which J. Elliot replied:
> >Ahem. As the (self-appointed) FTE defender of the Z, I find this one
> >interesting. True Z's (not ZX's) never had such an item. However, I think
> >you will find that if any later (ZX's) were rigged this way, they were
> >probably turbo units, and the blower was used to evacuate hot air from the

Then, John's turn:
> Uh-oh, we have a debate. I also have seen the blower that Steve discusses.
> I think you are correct that is is on the 280ZX, not the Z, but the
> non-turbo models had it too. The duct ran over the valve cover and then

No debate. My daughter's 83 280ZX, NON-turbo, has one, which is why Steve
and I were over lurking in the Datsun section. It does blow air over the
injectors, I'm not sure where the source is. I'll find out soon, though,
Jessica mentioned that hers hasn't been running lately (thermostat
controlled).

Marko typed:
>
> "Snake Bites!" That's where the tube gets pinched/rubbed by the flexing
> tire, and then it eventually cuts. Happens esp. if you drive on bumpy
> roads with anything less than really really hard tires. Happens all the
> time on my mountain bike.
>
Cool! After your done talking over trannys and gear oil at Steve's, we
can go riding at Annadell (Santa Rosa, CA). You'll probably have to
wait for me on occasion though, I'm an old fart :-)

I have several comments about possible causes for the extra oil.
1.) As someone suggested earlier, I have seen this happen when the fuel
pump diaphram ruptures (Ford 460 V8). Cure: new fuel pump. I have also seen
this happen when the block is cracked in the lifter valley (Ch*#y V8)
allowing coolant to seep into the crankcase. Cure: new block.
2.) I am unfamiliar with the full gamut of Ford powerplants, but my Towncar
(302 V8) has a double sump (two drain plugs). A possibility? BTW, if anyone
reading this uses a quick lube joint for oil changes, they rarely drain
both sumps.
3.) My Towncar dipstick is entirely wrong (or else I am, so what else is
new?). When I put in 4 quarts, the dipstick shows exactly full. However if
I then park on a slope with the front end downhill, the "check oil" light
comes on. I always put in 5 quarts at a change. I cut my own "Full" mark
with a three cornered file and use the original Full mark for the quart low
mark. I've run it over 3 years and almost 50K miles with no problems.

My 1976 F-150, 2Wheel drive, has developed a shake in the front
end. It feels like the front end of the truck is moving side to side or
kind of rocking. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I put the
truck up on jack stands and tried shaking the wheels, but I didn't feel
any excessive play. The Hayne's manual says something about Spindle
Bushings. If these are at fault how hard are they to replace? are any
special tools required? If something else is causing this, how hard is it
going to be to fix?

GPark writes: >>I need some advice on a truck I'm going to go look at.
It's a 73 F-350, with a 460/Auto.
- ------------------------------------------------
You said:
460 was not an option until at least '77 - maybe '78.
- -----------------------------------------------
Not true. The 460 was available in pickups in 76. Don't know which
models/trim levels they came in but this is confirmed in my shop manuals and
in my original sales brochure.

Joe writes: >>Can anybody give me pointers on changing the rear main seal
on a 390...Tricks, secrets anything you can send my way..
______________________
You said:
I've done it several times and here is what I remember..

=======================
Your method looks good and obviously it works well for you. In referencing
my shop manual it descibes a tool that will fit in the oil passage of the
rear main journal. You then rotat the crank and this tool is supposed to
push the rope seal out. It is simply a flat piece of metal with a tail on
it to fit into the oil passage. Have you or anyone else heard of or used
this tool? Does it work worth spit?

Secondly, instead of using a punch to push the seal out would a wooden
dowel work instead? It might pose less risk of damaging the rear main
journal.

> My 1976 F-150, 2Wheel drive, has developed a shake in the front
> end. It feels like the front end of the truck is moving side to side or
> kind of rocking. Does anyone know what could be causing this? I put the
> truck up on jack stands and tried shaking the wheels, but I didn't feel
> any excessive play. The Hayne's manual says something about Spindle
> Bushings. If these are at fault how hard are they to replace? are any
> special tools required? If something else is causing this, how hard is it
> going to be to fix?

If I understand the phenomenon it could be shocks, king pins, tie rod ends,
steering box or tires. Is the shaking violent from side to side? Does it gently
oscilate back and forth? Is it just wandering slowly all over the road?

You wrote:
Seriously though, you're absolutely right. Another thing that holes in
your exh system do is cause backfires (in combination with other factors of
course, but a holed exh system is prime for backfiring).
- -----------------------------------------------------------
Anyone know how to force a backfire from one of our trucks. I know I know
its bad to do. Bad on the muffler, exhaust manifolds, and valves but....
Actually I used to have a 73 Bu! k. I could force a back fire by flooring
it from a standing start at about 30 mph shut off the ignition and let off
the accelerator. Let it coast and then turn on the key... BOOOM!! Longer
the coast the louder the boom!!! Tried this in my truck a couple of times
(76 with a holley 4bbl) and nothing. No boom, pop or otherwise. Seems
weird. I don't have a catalytic and the carb doesn't have a fuel shutoff.
I'm just curious why one would and the other won't.

Tom H
BTW, the buick's muffler looked like a balloon by the time I sold it.

Had a problem with my mail today so downloaded the latest version of
Pegasus and fiddled with it all day trying to hide my identity so hackers
can't figure out my user name but pegasus makes it hard by using your user
name as the default name for the subdirectory for your mail with no
options.

It has a new password box now though so I think I've got it protected
finally. If anyone is having problems with my mail please let me know and
if my address doesn't show up let me know too: gpeters3 ford.com

Each edition gets a little better in some ways but they seem to keep
introducing new bugs into it, minor things like the way it wraps etc. but
it's still a good package :-) I lost my latest setup so have to redo my
signatures :-( Got to get the lift back in there :-) Got the walls up
on the bathroom and etched the floor for the epoxy which I will be putting
on tonight with any luck :-)

I had a similar problem in my *other* toy, a 73 Datsun Z! (Is there
some sort of divine FTE-Zcar connection?) I had one spark plug that
was wet with gas, so I tested it by grounding it against the engine
block and got a good spark at the electrode, so I looked elsewhere. I
finally replaced the plug because I couldn't find anything else wrong,
and ZZZZZOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!

If your plug wires are ok, look for a wet plug(s) and replace. Maybe
that will work.

>Hello everybody, well, I've finally got the 460 back together after many
>little problems slowing me down, but there's just one more little problem
that
>I can't figure out. The problem is that the engine is missing and kind of
>sputtering. It misses and sputters at idle and through the RPM range. The
idle
>isn't solid, or any other RPM for that matter, it makes the tach bounce up
and
>down about a couple hundred RPMs. I've tried adjusting the timing, and I can
>smooth it a little bit but it still idles jerkily. This engine is equipped
>with the duraspark elec.ignition and the Duraspark box is brand new, but I
>don't know what else it could be. Suggestions?? Oh, BTW, I just re adjusted
>all the valves and made sure they were right, and that still didn't change
the
>problem.
>
Are you sure your plug wires are in the right order? Sounds like reversed
or mixed up plug wires IMHO.
Dennis L. Pearson
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One possibillity is the rag joint in the steering column. When these go bad
they cause the truck to wander. This could be your problem.
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> Hello everybody, well, I've finally got the 460 back together after many
> little problems slowing me down, but there's just one more little problem
> that
> I can't figure out. The problem is that the engine is missing and kind of
> sputtering. It misses and sputters at idle and through the RPM range. The
> idle
> isn't solid, or any other RPM for that matter, it makes the tach bounce
> up and
> down about a couple hundred RPMs. I've tried adjusting the timing, and I
> can
> smooth it a little bit but it still idles jerkily. This engine is
> equipped
> with the duraspark elec.ignition and the Duraspark box is brand new, but
> I
> don't know what else it could be. Suggestions?? Oh, BTW, I just re
> adjusted
> all the valves and made sure they were right, and that still didn't
> change the
> problem.

It sounds like a vacuam leak to me. Put a vacuam guage on it. If it's
all over the place, check for vacuam leaks. Start by making sure that
your vacuam lines(especially manifold ports) are good and connected. If
they're OK then spray WD-40 along the intake and carb gaskets and carb
mounting pad. If it speeds up and the manifold vacuam stabilizes for a
minute make sure that the carb pad doesnt have a chunk of old gasket on
it, or isn't warped. Make sure the carb base is true also. If it's the
manifold you'll have to re-install it. If none of these procedures find
it, you might block off the vacuam port to your power brake booster to
make sure it isn't leaking. (it can be a major leak)

At 01:01 PM 24/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>GPark writes: >>I need some advice on a truck I'm going to go look at.
>It's a 73 F-350, with a 460/Auto.
>------------------------------------------------
>You said:
>460 was not an option until at least '77 - maybe '78.
>-----------------------------------------------
>Not true. The 460 was available in pickups in 76. Don't know which
>models/trim levels they came in but this is confirmed in my shop manuals and
>in my original sales brochure.

I have a '65 Ford pick-up, an old State of Ohio truck with a 9' bed.
Engine missing, 4 speed transmission & all running gear good.. Cab in
excellent shape. Dual rear wheels and spokers in front. I would offer a
picture but I don't know how to send one yet.
I asking $ 300 or best offer. I have owed it for 16 years and it never let
me down. Put engine in 72 F350 dump truck. I figured it ould be easier to
dump than shovel from a 9'bed.

I thought I would be spending my holiday weekend (Utah State holiday) by
upgrading my 69 F250 360 auto to a 4 barrel intake with a Holley 1850. Since
I didn't have a complete 1850 with kickdown for auto trans, I used parts
from other Holleys I have laying around (heh... and a ball point pen) to
build a complete carb with a total cost of about $45. ($372.99 + tax for a
new one). I was just about to remove the 4 barrel intake (from a 352) and
clean it up with my mini die grinder when the owner of the building shows
up. After renting this house since 1990, the owner finally decides to build
a garage (small, but very usefull). The construction workers have just
finished digging a trench for the footings. Since now would be a great time
to include any special features, and I don't know much about building
garages, how about some ideas???

I was thinking of something along the lines of.....
#1. no windows and think insulation would allow me to work through the
night without disturbing the neighbors.
#2. lots of lighting and electrical outlets (with gfci?)
#3. ventilation fan (solvents, carb dip tank, gas cans, etc....)

I think I can talk the owner into these items, is there something else I
could ask of him before construction gets to far along?

Thanks for the tip. Sorry to beat this subject to death, but a boneyard told
me that a 390 from 70-72 is different from a 73-79. Does anyone know the
difference and which one to use for the ps brackets to fit a 352? either? I
haven't found any 360's yet.......

trs2000

66f100 almost ps/pb just the pspump is missing...........
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Problem Solved!!! Well, after much head scratching, I went out and
bought some things today to hopefully take care of the problem. Well, I
bought some new MSD Spark plug wires and a new distributor cap (Paid a visit
to the local speed shop) and some new, high quality carb gaskets. That did it.
I don't know which of them finally did it or if all 3 helped but it runs right
now, so I'm happy! Now, there's another problem, it likes to overheat. Any
suggestions about that? Thanks,

How about install them? I'm just being silly but how about a 12' ceiling and a
lift?

Seriously though, have them set up a proper load center with 220 available to
the box so you can run a welder or back feed a generator to the house if you
have a power failure. I run my outbuildings from a breaker in the house main
load center, underground to the garage and then from there to the barn.
House is 200 amp, garage is 100 amp (breaker in house and main in garage)
and barn is 50 amps (but that will soon change). Make all your outlet circuits
20 amps and at a height of 40" to allow work benches etc. and have them put
in 95 watt, 8' instant on, high output flourescent lights. In a small garage you
will only need a few. I have three in my 30 x 48' barn and it nearly is enough.
I'll probably add 3 more just to keep it balanced but then I could take studio
pictures without any additional lights or even a flash :-)

If they haven't done the floor yet you could look into an electric grid heater
which is completely safe but costs a little more to operate (but not much).
There would be no fire hazzard or CO connected with this heat system :-) (I
didn't have enough budget or it would have been done in my barn) Another
option is a boiler, in floor water heat system. I did do this in my bathroom
and the copper tubing is relatively inexpensive. Pay attention to where the
tubes are when you drill holes for any walls..........don't ask :-( Becuase of
the small size of the room mine will be heated by the water heater. If you
have gas use a gas water heater not electric they recover almost twice as fast
but this may not be sufficient for a garage size building or room.

> I have a '65 Ford pick-up, an old State of Ohio truck with a 9' bed.
> Engine missing, 4 speed transmission & all running gear good.. Cab in
> excellent shape. Dual rear wheels and spokers in front. I would offer a
> picture but I don't know how to send one yet. I asking $ 300 or best

When you advertise something like this please include the city and state you
live in so we can decide whether we want to persue it :-) I'd drive to and tow
back from say Detroit but not Moab or Christmas (unless it was a really,
really, really good deal :-))

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