Valentin Yudashkin bumped up his show by a few days because his usual spot on the Fashion Week calendar coincides this year with International Women’s Day, and he will be staging a ceremonial show at the Kremlin. While the designer is a far bigger celebrity in his home country than in Paris, this latest collection suggests he is increasingly aware of what women abroad want as well. Calibrating his embellished looks with oxfords, for starters, was a smart move. Ditto a black turtleneck base layer appearing repeatedly, whether under an astrakhan-effect velvet minidress or a glimmering smock in bronzed faux fur. More significantly, he presented a number of luxurious long coats; textured all over in hand-cut silk or ornamented in moderation, they gave his floor-sweeping tulle dresses the necessary masculine-feminine frisson. He achieved similar results with the super-slim suiting in patterned brocades that vibrated like Op Art.

Backstage, he admitted that the menswear mixing is newer territory for him, yet he gave no impression of feeling forced to go there. And to be sure, the collection did not break with the decadence that defines his brand, from the plush grayscale fur to the final gowns lashed with layers of appliqué and beaded embroidery. Their topographies atop the diaphanous chiffon were inspired by the Ural Mountains, which he metaphorically mined to arrive at the vivid malachite green. But aside from a trippy digitized print presumably evoking the core of the stone, this point of departure wasn’t overworked. Anyway, it’s fair to say that Yudashkin’s glam take on everyday dressing wouldn’t be what you’d wear in the middle of Siberia. But this season, it will translate much better everywhere else.