The largest and most ambitious of the Mannino trio is a major destination on Jericho Turnpike. Check out the parking lot on a weekend night. The sprawling, two-story establishment can accommodate plenty. Recommended: grilled octopus; escarole and white beans; cavatelli with cauliflower, pine nuts, raisins and breadcrumbs; beef braciola; pan-seared pork chops; scungilli and calamari marinara. $$-$$$

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The name refers to the long paddle used to put in and retrieve pizza from the oven. A vintage model is next to the wood-burning oven. So, pick a pizza, Margherita preferred. At lunch, sample a panuozzo, or hot sandwich. Also recommended: baked clams, grilled octopus; stuffed paccheri pasta; the Parmesan trio of veal, chicken and eggplant; roasted pork belly with clams and white beans. $$-$$$