Sew Your Kibbe: Soft Natural

For an introduction to the Sew Your Kibbe Series, please see this post. The posts in this series are intended to be a well researched and thorough investigation of the Kibbe style recommendations, along with several example patterns for each “level of dress.” The posts in this series will be picture heavy and quite lengthy. As always, you may want some tea.

Introduction

In last week’s post we learned about about Kibbe’s Flamboyant Natural, a style type that has the unconstructed Natural lines, but with an added bit of yang emphasis. This week we will look at the other Natural subtype, Soft Natural. If you take the Natural type and add a bit of extra yin, you end up with Soft Natural. Kibbe’s Soft Natural is described as a “Fresh and Sensual Lady.” You can read more about Kibbe’s Soft Natural here.

Body Type Characteristics

The following are Kibbe’s descriptions of a Soft Natural Body Type:

SOFT NATURAL PHYSICAL PROFILE

NOTE: The following information should be taken as a broad outline of what makes a Soft Natural. It is the overall combination of the very soft Yang with a Yin undercurrent (slightly soft and fleshy body type on an angular frame combined with an appealing innocent essence) that creates this Image Identity category. Therefore, slight deviation here or there is always possible and should not be worried over if it does not upset your Yin/Yang balance. Height: Moderate to slightly small, up to 5 feet 7 inches. Bone structure: Slightly angular bones. Slightly square or broad shoulders. Moderate to slightly short limbs (slightly leggy look also possible). Slightly blunt, or small and irregular facial contours (nose, cheekbones, and jawline). Hands and feet are moderate and fleshy, or slightly small and wide. Body type: Slightly soft, tends towards fleshiness. Slightly small waist that’s in proportion to bust and hips. Slightly curvy, tends to an hourglass shape, but not extremely so. Slightly fleshy upper arms and thighs. Facial features: Full and rounded. Round eyes, full lips, soft cheeks. Nose tends to be small and wide, or slightly irregular (blunt or wide). Hair: Any texture is possible, but it tends toward softness. If the hair is straight, it is usually fine and wispy. If wavy/curly it is usually silky, as opposed to coarse. Coloring: Any coloring is possible (warm or cool), but a Soft Natural usually has a somewhat blended coloring (although occasionally high-contrast coloring is also found). Skin tone tends to be somewhat delicate and luminous, and freckles in the sun or gently tans after an initial slight burn. If overweight: Body tends to become extremely soft and fleshy, with the waist thickening. The upper arms, thighs, and hips tend to collect excess weight and cellulite most rapidly. A Soft Natural will not:

Have an extremely straight body type

Have extremely sharp features

Have extremely sharp bone structure

Be extremely tall

Have an extremely large and broad bone structure

Be symmetrical in body type and facial features

Recommendations:

The following are Kibbe’s recommendations regarding the clothing and style choices that best suit his Soft Natural image ID. The following recommendations will be taken into consideration for each garment type listed below:

DETAIL: Detail should be loose, relaxed, delicate, slightly intricate and very creative. Any detail that suggest either a bit of the antique or the earth is excellent. Shoulders may be extended and padded, but should not be sharp or stiff. Necklines should be loose and soft, not closed, restricted, or fussy (simple draped necklines; soft cowls, soft, notched collars; clean lapels, shawl collars, etc.) Waist should be defined, although loosely. There can be a slightly blousy effect at the waist, with the top draped over the waistline, or a slightly dropped waist as long as the silhouette is fluid. Gathers and folds should be deep, full and soft. Sleeves can be full and flowing or gently tapered at the wrist with a minimum of detail. Trim should be delicate and antique (shirring, appliqué, etc.).

FABRIC: Soft textures with a plush or slightly rough finish. A tactile feeling is very stunning and evocative of your freshly feminine and artistic essence. Weights should be light to moderate so fluid movement is possible. Anything wrinkly, nubby, slubbed, or loosely woven is excellent, particularly in a daytime, suited look. Shiny fabrics may be worn with ease in the evening, but should be left aside for day, except for slight sheen of texture (such as shantung). Deep pile (velour, suede, boucle knits, etc.) is excellent, as is buttery-soft leather

SEPARATES: An obvious use of separates is excellent for you. Be sure to keep an artful blend of textures, colors and patterns.

COLOR: Your use of color should be vibrant and rich. Brights and pastels form the basis of your wardrobe, but soft neutrals with a little vivid accenting can be very elegant and exciting in beautiful textures. Dark colors will be too stark if your don’t break them up. Use them primarily for accents or for color combinations. Bright and soft color combinations work best, as opposed to starkly contrasting ones. For example light/bright or bright/dark combos are softer on you than light/dark ones. Wild color combinations (bright/bright) of opposing intensities are fun, particularly for your casual clothes.

Avoid: Dull, monochromatic schemes. Head-to-toe dark schemes.

Prints should be softly rounded shapes, abstract and flowing. They may be either watercolor-blended or very electric and vibrant, as long as they are slightly irregular and have soft edges. Size should be moderate to slightly large.

Avoid: Small, symmetrical prints. Severe geometrics. Overly intricate prints. Animated, “cute” or “perky” prints. Because there is an earthiness that comes from your soft Yang basis, anything tactile is excellent on you. Soft textures–such as slubbed fabrics, handkerchief linens, raw silk, fuzzy knits–are very good choices when kept to the lightweight side and used in an unstructured silhouette.

ACCESSORIES: Accessories should be on the lightweight and delicate side, without being overly ornate or trimmed. Yet at the same time your creativity will cry out for special touches here and there. The trick is not to overdo it! You are a Natural, after all, so a little goes a long way on you. One special piece, perhaps a beautiful supple belt of suede with an ornate Navajo Indian buckle, will be just the right accent to express your inner creativity without overpowering the fresh and simple appeal that is the centerpiece of your Image Identity.

Shoes: Should be tapered in shape and slightly delicate in style with little or no trim. an open-toe, sling-back, or “bare” look is best. The shape may also be angular if the heel is very high and narrow and the toe is very tapered. Feminine flats with little trim.

Avoid: Extremely angular, heavy styles.

Bags: Should be moderate in size. Shape may be slightly rounded with little or not trim, or softly geometric with slight gathers or intricacy to soften. Antique bags are excellent for evening (small and beaded). Moderate sized, unconstructed “pouchy” styles are also good.

Avoid: Crisply structured bags.

Belts (if worn): Should be wide and supple, either soft leather or suede, or exquisite fabric. Buckles should be intricate and slightly antique, with sparkles or beading for evening especially lovely.

Avoid: Stiff belts.

Hats: Should be soft and floppy (i.e., picture frame) or rounded and clean (i.e., crisp-brimmed straw). Detail should be soft (antique, ribbons, lace, or flowers). Fur hats are soft and fluffy.

Hosiery: Flesh-toned stockings are best for an elegant daytime work look if you wear a suit. Opaque stockings in light shades are soft, and you may definitely contrast the stocking with the hemline, if you wish. Bright and textured stockings are excellent for fun. Dark stockings are for evening only and should be very sexy and sheer, with lacy textures or exciting sparkles. (Sexy!)

Avoid: One long line of dark color (too dull and matronly on you).

Jewelry: Likewise your jewelry is most effective when it has some texture to it, as well as the feeling of having been hand-designed and created. The look that suggests the spirit of an artist is embedded in your necklace, earrings, or ornate wrist cuffs is simply a fabulous way of evoking your wild passion and warmth. Again, just remember to keep a touch of the delicate and the ornate evident in shape, detail, and finish. Your Jewelry should be delicate in workmanship but highly creative in effect. Unusual materials, particularly crystal, hand-wrought copper or silver, leather, intricately carved leather or stone, faceted glass, and any piece that looks as though it was designed by an artist is wonderful for you. “Wearable art” suits you best, ranging from wild and funky pieces with feathers, faux jewels, and sparkles to ornate Navajo Indian turquoise to elegant mixtures of opals, diamonds, and platinum! It must be both highly original and slightly intricate at the same time. Very simple antique pieces are also quite appropriate, especially for very dressy evenings, but always make sure there is at least a touch of sparkle and a bit of dangle!

For the individual garment types, obviously, I will be focusing on the lines of the garment, as fabric and color choices would easily be controlled by the home sewer. It’s nice that he included a long list of acceptable fabrics though!

Jackets: Jackets should be unconstructed, soft, and always showing the waist (but not necessarily emphasizing it). This can be a jacket that is shaped through the waist, or it can be a jacket that is unstructured and very lightweight or flimsy, so that it drapes around the body but still reveals the waist. Shoulders can be extended and padded, without being crisp, and the length can be shortish if the jacket is shaped through the waist, or longer (top of the thigh area) if it is belted or unconstructed / boxy. Jackets that are not shaped or belted must be very draped and fluid, and should be left unfastened.

Coats – Level 1: For the the casual coats I found styles that have the easy shape/drape Kibbe suggests, but would look good with jeans or other casual pieces to create an overall casual look.

Butterick 6384: View C has the open neckline and belt to create waist emphasis.

Simplicity 8554: Very draped and fluid. Views B and C definitely work as far as length is concerned, but I think View A could also work because of the fluidity.

BS-09-2006-126A: Slight shaping through the waist. I’d call these shoulders extended, but not sharp. The textured fabric is also on Kibbe’s list of recommendations for Soft Naturals.

BS-09-2003-108: Slight shaping through the waist, with a belt. Extended shoulder shape.

BS-01-2018-120: Very loose and unconstructed, but with lots of drape for shaping with the belt. The pockets add the right touch of soft detail. (On a side note, I remember liking this pattern, but now I’m obsessed with it and I really want to make one).

BS-01-2016-124: The drawstring allows for subtle waist shaping; showing, but not emphasizing.

BS-08-2011-124B: Unconstructed and soft, very lightweight so it drapes around the body. The tapered wrist detail is on Kibbe’s list of general recommendations.

BS-11-2017-101: Unconstructed and soft. This style needs a belt if it is going to be worn in a thicker fabric for warmth.

New Look 6416: Unconstructed, with belted waist shaping. The length on View A is just about right – mid thigh length.

Burda 6360: Another parka style with a cord or belt for waist definition.

BS-10-2011-106: Simple, soft waist shaping is helped by the belt. Kibbe would approve of the leather fabric; the perforations give the coat an “antiqued detail” look.

BS-11-2013-102: Lightweight coat that drapes about the body, with subtle waist shaping in back.

BS-09-2018-104: Soft and showing the waist.

Kwik Sew 4141: Unconstructed, soft, and draped around the body. Belt emphasis to showcase the waist.

BS-04-2014-131: A Burda Plus option that is soft an unconstructed, but looks good belted.

Coats – Level 2: The Level 2 styles are a bit more tailored, but still utilizing soft, asymmetric shapes to create the Soft Natural feel.

BS-02-2017-103: Softly draped about the body, with belt tabs creating waist emphasis. Looks great worn open or closed. This could be casual in a linen (as shown) or more formal in a soft wool suiting.

BS-04-2018-103: Unconstructed, with asymmetric draping detail and belt shaping through the waist.

BS-01-2007-121: Subtle waist shaping, but a generally unconstructed shape. The shoulders look a bit extended (possibly a bit too crisp), but the partial belt detail is very nice.

BS-11-2008-116: Unconstructed and soft, with shaping coming from the faux half belt detail.

BS-12-2013-102: Soft draping, with waist shaping coming from the belt.

BS-10-2015-114B: Softly draping, with simple shaping in the waist.

BS-11-2015-102D: I think this fabric is a bit stiff for a Soft Natural, but in a different fabric this could be soft and unconstructed, and worn open.

BS-01-2018-113: Very subtle shaping through the waist. Showcasing, but not emphasizing.

BS-05-2017-123: Very soft, fluid Burda Plus trench coat option.

Simplicity 2311: These wool coats look warm and heavy, but also soft and like they drape about the body.

Simplicity 8798: Unconstructed and showing the waist. The wrist detail (view B) and asymmetry (view D) are good options for a Soft Natural.

Simplicity 8796: Unconstructed coat with very subtle waist shaping.

McCall’s 7878: Although many similar coat styles come off as flouncy, this one feels very soft and unconstructed. The open neckline is good for all Natural types, but the draped waist is specifically great for Soft Naturals.

Burda 6394: View B (the shorter coat) would be a good option in the Burda Plus size range; the lapel creates a soft shoulder emphasis, and the overall feel is unconstructed and soft.

Simplicity 8472: Lightly draping trench coat styles are good.

McCall’s 7485: Softly draping about the body, showcasing, but not emphasizing the waist.

BS-02-2018-125: Another softly draping Burda Plus trench option.

BS-12-2013-131: They have a ton of similar styles that utilize belts to create the waist shaping.

BS-02-2016-128A: This shoes how a lightly draped style can be effectively worn open.

BS-03-2011-135: Another soft trench style for good measure.

Coats – Level 3: As with all of the Natural types, it is a bit tricky to find coats that read as formal while still fitting into the “unconstructed” silhouette, but I think there are some nice options for Soft Naturals.

BS-08-2012-105: I would call this silhouette unconstructed, and the belt helps show the waist. The shoulders are extended and padded but not sharp. It also has a slight vintage (“antique”) feel, which Kibbe really likes for Soft Naturals. (Also, boy did this pattern shoot up to the top of my want to sew list.)

Simplicity 8509: “Jackets that are not shaped should be very draped and fluid and must be left unfastened.” That’s a definite yes. Again, vintage styling adds that “antique” touch to a Soft Natural’s wardrobe.

Burda 7190: View A has very slight waist shaping, with extended (but not sharp) shoulders and an unconstructed feel. Shiny fabrics work for evening looks.

BS-01-2011-101: The gathering at the shoulders gives them a “soft” look, and the vintage feel adds an “antique” touch to this unconstructed coat.

BS-01-2011-109: Soft waist shaping with gentle flow. This coat could possibly feel a bit too stiff in some fabrics, but I thought it fit into the general description well enough to include it.

Burda Plus F/W 2015 #430B: Again, this could be a bit too tailored, but I think the soft collar detail adds a feeling of unconstructed-ness and shoulder emphasis that could work for a really fancy evening look.

BS-01-2016-118B: Unconstructed, and softly draping about the body.

BS-12-2012-117: Soft waist shaping; it could look fantastic in a really fabric for an evening event.

BS-10-2009-131: Simple and unconstructed, with soft waist shaping.

Jackets – Level 1: For the jackets, I paid more attention to the length requirements in addition to the need for soft, draping shapes.

BS-08-2011-124A: Soft, unconstructed, and draping about the body, with belt for use in shaping. Length is great at the top of the thigh.

Burda 6478: Bomber jackets have a soft, unconstructed, and draping feel. elastic waistbands emphasize the waist, and worn open they can show it without emphasizing it.

BS-03-2003-109A: Loose, unconstructed, and longer due to being unconstructed/boxy. (I’ve made this style too and I love it.)

BS-10-2018-110: Although this has detail, the silhouette is softly shaped through the waist. Probably not the best option on the list, but for a casual jacket I think it checks enough boxes to fit into a Soft Natural wardrobe. The shorter length is good for more fitted styles as well.

BS-12-2012-139: Another jacket that is shaped through the waist, and is a bit shorter because it is more fitted. (Yet another style I’ve made and really liked.)

Simplicity 8222: Elongated, unconstructed bomber style that hits at the top of the thigh.

BS-08-2016-115: This could be a nice option because the shape is fairly unconstructed and it can be worn open to show the waist. This style is pretty versatile; it could read as a Level 1 or 2 (or even 3) depending on styling and fabrication.

BS-02-2018-105: Cropped kimono styles are good: unconstructed, with with a belt tie and softly extended shoulders all fit the recommendations. The length is particularly good on this pattern.

BS-08-2018-119: Loose and unconstructed; obviously made to be worn open.

Jackets – Level 2: It’s tricky to fit blazers into this style ID; the super large, unconstructed shapes of the Flamboyant Natural and the Natural IDs don’t work as well here because of the need for waist shaping. I may have been a little liberal with my interpretations in this section, but I did want to include a wide range of styles that would work for professional events as well as formal parties or dinners.

BS-07-2011-119: Ok, so this might be a touch too fitted, but it does have waist shaping and it feels “soft” for a blazer because the darts end softly at the bust. (I may be a bit biased here because this is the only blazer I’ve ever really loved, and I wore it to death.)

Burda 6843: The soft waist detail keeps this in the Soft Natural realm, but this overall shape still looks very professional.

Burda 6587: Soft and showcasing the waist. Even though the top is fitted, the extra long peplum on A gives it an “unconstructed” feel. This could be a good pattern to get a more tailored feel to a look.

BS-11-2013-101: Softly belted jacket.

BS-11-2015-102C: The belting on this jacket adds important waist emphasis to help it feel more formal. This could look really nice for an evening out.

BS-03-2015-112B: This blazer has some shaping through the waist, but is otherwise pretty simple. I don’t know that I’d call it “unconstructed” but I wouldn’t call it “severely tailored” either. It’s that sort of middle ground between the extreme looseness of a Flamboyant Natural jacket and the crisp tailoring of a Dramatic Classic look.

Simplicity 1283: Soft jacket with a belt for waist definition.

McCall’s 7254: A simple cardigan style jacket that can be worn open to show the waist. The lapels create soft oval shapes, which Kibbe says is important to the overall Soft Natural line.

Burda 6774: Another “halfway” blazer – tailored enough to be professional, but soft enough to be Soft Natural.

BS-09-2011-126: The simple drape at the waist adds both an unconstructed feel and waist emphasis. I wasn’t too fond of this jacket when the pattern first came out, but I may have changed my mind in the context of a Soft Natural wardrobe.

Burda 6876: More blazer styles that are softly shaped though the waist. The shoulders are extended and padded, but not crisp. The longer views have a slightly unconstructed feel to them because of the loose closure.

BS-02-2017-102: In a casual work environment I think this sort of jacket could serve as a “belted blazer” style.

BS-12-2013-116B: Loose kimono styles could look great for a date night or party, especially because there are so many great fabric choices for them.

Vogue 9338: Loose and unconstructed, falling to the top of this hip. The cuff detail works well for a Soft Natural because it adds a touch of yin softness.

BS-06-2018-127B: A Burda Plus style that could be shaped with a belt.

Jackets – Level 3: Level 3 jackets have some interesting options because they can be softly unconstructed or more fitted.

Vogue 1493: Gorgeous jacket option for an evening event. The details are a perfect scale, and the silhouette is unconstructed and softly draping.

BS-11-2015-102B: Shorter evening jacket, with an unconstructed shape.

BS-08-2018-111A: Soft, with waist shaping. This jacket feels like it would be unconstructed because the waist darts all end in soft gathers.

Burda Easy F/W 2018 #5C: Soft, unconstructed, and draping about the body. The mix of fancy, sparkly fabrics is great for a Soft Natural evening look.

BS-12-2018-104: I’d call this blazer pretty unconstructed, with just a hint of waist shaping. The length to the top of the thigh is just about right, and the collar is pretty softly elongated in shape. Being worn open, it can show the waist without being cinched in with a belt.

Skirts: Skirts should have a soft outline. Full or flared skirts that are flat in the hip area are excellent. Straight skirts that are lightweight, draped, or slightly tapered are also good. Straight skirts that have an even hem and are worn short, no longer than the bottom of the kneecap. Full skirts have an uneven hem and are worn long, mid calf and below. Slits, kick pleats, button fronts, plackets, etc., are all fine, as are bits of intricate detail (shirring, draping, etc.), as long as they are not restrictive.

New Look 6477: Soft outline, flared, with an uneven hem that extends to the mid-calf.

Burda 6468: View A is the flared, longer than mid-calf recommendation.

Burda 6903: Softly flared, but slim in the hips.

BS-07-2006-118B: Another softly flared style that has an uneven hem.

BS-03-2017-124B: Burda Plus option that is straight and slightly draped.

Level 2: The Level 2 styles have a bit more of the straight, shorter styles, though there are plenty of softly flowing styles here too.

BS-01-2011-105: Softly flowing, with an uneven hem. This jacket could actually work pretty well too; this outfit gives that “antique” styling vibe.

New Look 6311: Softly flaring skirt with a mid-calf length hem.

Simplicity 1560: Straight skirt with a slight flare. The longer full skirts in this pattern could work well too.

Simplicity 2451: Soft outline. Options for styles that gently flare or taper at the knee, but all are smooth through the hips.

BS-08-2007-113A: Smooth, tapered style that ends at the knee. The soft draping detail is on Kibbe’s approved list.

Burda 6835: Straight skirt that ends at the knee. The zipper detail allows the shape to open a bit, so it is not restrictive, which makes this otherwise too slim skirt work.

Knipmode 12-2011-20: This example was too good to not include. Softly straight, ending just at the knee, with a bit of intricate detail (but not too much!).

BS-12-2018-117A: Straight style ending just at the knee. Possibly a bit severe in the lines, but I think in a textured fabric (like the bouclé shown) could soften it enough for a Soft Natural.

Burda 6491: A soft outline, with a gentle flare.

Burda 6714: Soft silhouette with a flares shape to the mid-calf.

BS-08-2010-139: Love this Burda Plus skirt as a work option; the outline is soft and straight, and the pleats/draping adds an interesting touch without being in any way restrictive.

Level 3: The level 3 styles are sort of more of the same, but showcased in fancier fabrics.

BS-03-2006-105: Softly draping. Moderately large prints with watercolor edges is on Kibbe’s list of approval features in a garment.

BS-11-2007-108: Softly flaring skirt. Asymmetry is great for Soft Naturals.

BS-09-2009-132: Soft outline that is straight with a bit of soft draping detail. The draping is not restrictive, and the hemline is shorter for a straighter style.

BS-07-2010-116B: Straight skirt with an even hem and a bit of intricate detail. This is probably just on the boarder of “too much” if it is worn with a simple top I think it could work for a fancy event.

BS-02-2004-119B: Softly draping, past mid-calf, with an uneven hem.

BS-05-2004-104B: Simple, softly flared style.

BS-05-2004-104B: Longer version of the same skirt.

Pants: Pants should be lightweight and slightly draped, with a bit of soft detail or ornate trim (gathers, shirring, soft pleats). Legs may be softly straight, draping about the ankle, or slightly tapered and pegged.

Level 1: The level 1 looks tend to be a bit more unconstructed, and have draping details that read as being more casual.

Burda 7195: Lightweight, softly draped, with ornate trim at the waist. (Also, I’ve made these pants and they are great.)

Burda 6665: A style that is also lightweight and draped, but in the tapered/pegged style. Personally, I’m curious if I could pull off view B because I’ve never really worn a pegged style like this before.

BS-05-2001-119: Softly straight lengths with a bit of trim at the waistband. These could possibly be too Wide/shapeless, but I think that gives them the casual, beachy vibe that makes them a Level 1 style.

BS-06-2012-109: Lightweight and softly straight, draping about the ankle.

Simplicity 8698: Athletic styles will work for casual outfits because of the soft, draping shape with touches of detail.

BS-04-2017-106B: A casual pegged trouser with “shirring” detail at the waist.

BS-07-2017-106B: Another softly fitted tapered leg pant.

Burda 6770: Burda has a lot of good tapered leg options.

BS-08-2006-106A: Softly straight, draping about the ankle. Hard to say if the buttons read as “man tailoring” or “antique detail” but I think in a casual look it’ll be ok.

BS-06-2011-114A: Softly straight and a bit of “intricate” detail at the waist. I’ve made this pattern at least a dozen times. Once as real pants, but the rest of the time as PJs because this is the most comfortable pant pattern ever. Also, cuz pockets.

BS-02-2017-104C: Lightweight and slightly draped, with soft pleating detail at the waist. (I’ve made this style too!)

Burda 6371: Softly draped style that tapers at the hem.

BS-02-2013-108B: Another softly draped style that ends in a slight taper. I’d be curious to try this style out too.

BS-02-2016-111B: The is a slightly baggier drape, but I think that adds to the casual character of the pant.

BS-05-2013-129B: Softly draped, with small pleating details. Tapered legs work with the Kibbe recommendations.

Burda 6444: A Burda Plus jumpsuit with soft draping and a tapered leg.

Level 3: The Level 3 pants are all jumpsuits because I think the Level 2 trousers could all work as part of an evening look and I wanted to find something uniquely fancy for Level 3.

McCall’s 7577: The red jumpsuit is softly draped, with potential for ornate trim on the back of the bodice.

McCall’s 7366: This bodice could be used with any of the trouser bottoms to create a fun evening jumpsuit. The belt for waist emphasis is a great detail

BS-06-2015-119C: Softly straight, draping trouser legs.

BS-04-2017-121: Another style with softly straight trouser legs that have a ncie drape.

Blouses: Blouses should be soft, draped, and slightly loose and billowy or clingy. Detail should be slightly antique and intricate, but should not be fussy and overdone. Open necks are best, particularly if draped, and camisoles are also good. The more detail there is, the more unconstructed the blouses should be. Sheer fabrics are excellent (voiles, batiste, etc.). The shiner the fabric, the less detail there should be.

Level 1: Level 1 styles have more relaxed fits and more simple details. These styles also work best for more casual fabrics like knits.

Butterick 5388: Soft, draped, and billowy. I made this top earlier this year and it is one of my most worn pieces!

Butterick 5497: Open neck, with soft draping.

Burda 6631: Slightly loose style with an open neckline.

Burda Easy S/S 2018 #4A: Clingy style with an open neck.

BS-02-2009-108: Simple, clingy knit top with an open neckline.

BS-03-2010-118B: Soft draping, with a loose shape and simple details.

BS-06-2011-101: Soft, draped, and slightly loose. Open neckline with a hint of detail.

BS-11-2011-114A: Soft, draped, and slightly clingy, with an open neckline.

BS-09-2012-130B: More softly draped styles in clingy knits.

BS-05-2013-103: Camisole/tank top style with open neckline and soft draping. I’ve made this top, and I can say that the straps are a great place to add “antique” detailing.

BS-05-2013-103: Soft, draped style that softly clings to emphasize the waist. I made this style and literally wore it to death; the fabric gave out a while ago.

BS-06-2013-101A: Softly draped and clingy. (I made this style too (but in the wrong size.))

BS-06-2013-108: Softly draped, with an open neckline, and a billowy, loose silhouette.

BS-07-2013-103B: A similar style with draped shoulder detail.

BS-12-2013-108: Slightly billowy, with delicate detail. Sleeves that gather at a cuff are great for all yin influenced types.

BS-02-2014-135A: Soft, draped, and slightly loose. The draping is slightly intricate, but not fussy. This is a really cool casual top that would look great with jeans or a skirt.

BS-05-2014-129: Another style with intricate twisting detail that feels relaxed and not fussy.

BS-05-2014-131A: Softly loose, with a deep, open neckline.

BS-08-2015-115C: Loose, with an open neckline.

BS-12-2015-118B: Another softly billowy style with an open neckline.

BS-07-2017-112: Soft, draped, and billowy.

BS-02-2018-107B: Soft, clingy draping.

Simplicity 3536: All of the views would be good here! A nice mix of drape, cling, and billow, all with slightly antique details. (I’ve madea few of these tops, but I think I need to make more.)

BS-05-2010-104: Slightly intricate detailing, but not overdone due to the loose fit.

BS-05-2015-111: Soft draping with an open neckline and loose fit.

BS-05-2016-103: Slightly loose fit, with soft draping, an open neckline, and a touch of detail.

McCall’s 6470: Draping with a very open neckline.

McCall’s 6604: Soft draping with an open neckline, and a touch of detail.

McCall’s 6991: Soft drape with a slightly loose fit.

New Look 6374: Loose tunics, with a hint of detail at the shoulder seams.

Butterick 6173: Softly draping top with a loose fit.

BS-06-2004-117: Kibbe likes camis for the Natural types.

BS-05-2016-111A: Another camisole option, with nice draping detail at the neckline.

Butterick 5645: Soft draping, with a loose fit.

Burda 6354: Soft and billowy, with just a hint of draping.

Vogue 9055: Loose fit with a draped neckline. This is a great option for a Soft Natural casual fall/winter look.

BS-12-2018-103: Softly draped, loosely fit, with an open neckline.

BS-11-2018-116B: Soft and billowy.

BS-07-2018-125: A Burda Plus top with a soft drape and loose fit.

BS-02-2018-129: This is a great Burda Plus top; loose fitting, with drape and minimal detail. Kibbe says fit and detail are an inverse relationship for Soft Naturals, which is why this top is such a great style.

BS-05-2017-122B: Loose, relaxed fit.

Level 2: As with all Level 2 styles, the details are slightly more traditional, resulting in more work appropriate options.

Butterick 5526: I’ve recommended this pattern for all of the Natural types – it has some great relaxed fit styles, but still feels professional. (Side note: I’ve never successfully made a button up shirt. This might be the pattern I try when I finally get over that mental block.)

Burda Classic 2013 #0001: Soft draping, with an open neckline. The fitted cuffs give this top a slightly more formal feel.

Butterick 5997: Soft and billowy, with just a hint of intricate detailing.

Burda 6632: Softly draped, with loose fit. Open neckline and a sense of slight intricacy.

BS-06-2004-121B: As shown this top would be a fun party look, but I think it could also be worn under a jacket as part of a work look, at least for a less formal workplace.

BS-10-2005-114: Softly draped and clingy; this would look amazing with some of the straight legged Soft Natural trouser recommendations.

BS-10-2008-114: Draped and clingy, with a hint of intricacy.

BS-12-2013-119A: Softly draped, billowy style. I made this a while ago. I really liked the style, but the fabric I used was too scratchy to be comfortable with a draped neckline.

BS-01-2016-114B: Softly draped, with a touch of intricate detail.

BS-09-2018-120: Soft and loose, with an open neckline.

BS-05-2014-130: Softly draped, with an intricate waist detail. The simple shape and open neckline keep it far from being fussy though.

BS-03-2017-116B: Soft and billowy, with the potential for antique detailing on the neck and shoulder facing.

BS-12-2011-122B: Cami/tank top with slightly intricate draped straps.

BS-07-2016-129A: Similar style in the Burda Plus sizes.

Sweaters: Soft knits that are luxurious to the touch. They can be either lightweight and silky or thick and deep, just as long as they don’t ever seem rough. Slightly long sweaters are nice, if they are somewhat clingy and reveal the body (particularly the waist) underneath. Cropped or fitted sweaters should be thicker (boucle, cable-stitched, etc.) and any detail (shirring, draping, etc.) should be low on the body and loose. Trim such as appliqué, jewels, beading, etc., should be slightly antique or softly abstract in shape. Skinny, ribbed knits can be fun, especially in dresses that your belt.

Avoid: Heavy sweaters that hide the body.

Level 1: Level 1 styles have the flow and drape, but lack details to make them feel fancy, or they would work best in thicker knits which seem a bit more casul.

BS-10-2014-113: This could easily be a Level 1 or 2, depending on fabric choice. As shown in the thicker knit it reads as more casual, but in a really fine knit fabric it could function as a lighter weight coat.

BS-01-2011-126A: Slightly long sweater that reveals the waist through belting. Kibbe would proabably want a smoother looking fabric.

Burda 6667: Long, clingy sweater. I’ve made this style for cosplay/bounding, but I actually wear it a lot.

Burda Easy S/S 2015 #1C: Long and clingy, revealing the body.

Burda Easy S/S 2018 #6C: This knit looks soft and luxurious.

BS-05-2003-124B: Slightly long, revealing the body. This would be a fun style to add some antique detail to.

McCall’s 5978: Soft and luxurious, with lots of options for intricate detailing.

BS-05-2018-119: Silky, and slightly long.

BS-09-2003-109: Elongated style that softly clings to the body.

BS-11-2014-123: Elongated, with a hint of detailing at the neckline.

BS-08-2014-136A: Cropped style in a thicker knit.

BS-08-2011-135: Soft and smooth.

Level 3: I don’t have a lot of Level 3 options, but I think it is possible for a Soft Natural to wear a sweater as part of a formal look because of the need for softness.

Simplicity 8707: Soft and elongated, definitely showing the body. How elegant would this look over a long, softly draped evening gown?

BS-03-2012-122: Soft and flowing, in slightly sheer knit that shows off the body. I’ve made this style, and I really like the silhouette (though I’d like to make it again in a different fabric).

BS-01-2013-128: Kibbe likes shiny things for evening looks; a sequin sweater is totally an option for Soft Naturals for a more formal event.

Dresses: Dresses should be soft and flowing, but at the same time loose and unconstructed. They should either loosely define the waist in full, flared silhouettes, or be very draped and clingy in a straighter silhouette. Detail should be low on the body (shirring, gathers, appliqué, sparkly trim, etc.) as opposed to high or framing the face. A slightly antique approach to dresses is also possible, but keep them loose and billowy instead of fussy and overly fitted.

Vogue 1520: Plush fabrics with a hint of antique detailing at the cuffs.

BS-10-2015-130B: Simple shapes with easy flow in drapable fabrics.

BS-12-2012-151: Drapable fabrics with loose waist detail.

And that’s it! If you still have questions about the Soft Natural type I suggest you check out Merriam Style’s excellent YouTube video. As for the Sew Your Kibbe blog post series, we’ve officially finished out pattern round up of the Kibbe types, though I do have a few concluding thoughts about the Natural subtypes…

Of the three Natural types, Soft Natural feels the most separate from the other recommendations, whereas Flamboyant Natural and Natural tended to have a bit more overlap I think. Soft Naturals can’t handle the super wide, heavy, and boxy unconstructed shapes that the other two IDs can. I think this might be a major reason that a lot of people who are Soft Natural think they are some other soft type instead. This is what happened to me; I’ve never looked good in large, shapeless styles, so I assumed all of the Natural types were off the table. Plus, Soft Natural has a very specific type of softness; it is soft flesh on top of a Natural’s blunt bone structure, which I think can often be disguised because of that softness. I think a lot of people often debate between Soft Natural and Soft Classic for this reason. I don’t think debating between Soft Natural and Soft Gamine is as common; I feel like a Gamine’s mix of yin and yang is easier to discern than comparing a Natural’s bluntness to a Classic’s blended-ness. Ultimately, though, I think it comes down to the clothes; if you feel right is clothes that are more tailored with a hint of soft detail you would be Soft Classic, but if you need more freedom of motion and slightly more unconstructed styles then you fall into the Soft Natural camp. I definitely noticed that myself, which is how I first came to realize I might be a Soft Natural. I took a risk making a few unconstructed garments in my first Sew Geeky capsule this past year, but those “risky” styles ended up being some of my favorite pieces. In hindsight, I really do need more movement in my clothes, and Soft Natural provides that, without forcing me to be swallowed in the more encompassing Flamboyant Natural or Natural styles. I’ll save the intellectualization for another post, but, suffice to say, when you find the right ID, you’ll know.

On a personal note, since this is my style ID, I have to admit that this was the most difficult post for me to write. By this point I feel like I’ve looked through patterns so much I’m a bit fatigued at discerning lines, and I was constantly worried I was picking styles I liked and not necessarily the best styles to represent Kibbe’s recommendations. The other thing that’s a bit tricky with this style ID is that the suggestions on what to wear and what to avoid are usually skirting a close line. Kibbe wants “antique” detail, but it can’t be too fussy. He wants soft, flowing shapes, but they can’t be too wide or boxy. He wants things to be unconstructed, but also having waist definition. Finding patterns that fit all of these recommendations is tricky! On the one hand, I feel like this gives me a lot of room to play with my personal style, but on the other hand, I feel like I keep second guessing my pattern choices. Regardless, I’m more confident than ever that Soft Natural is my Kibbe ID. Writing this post almost felt like a rundown of my “sewing list greatest hits!” The patterns I’ve made that I put in this post are some of my favorites, and I really do think a lot of these other styles that I haven’t made (yet) would look good on me. (I also think there are a lot of new styles I assumed would not look good that I’m sort of tempted to try now.) They may not all be my personal taste, but I think narrowing down my patterns in this way has really helped me focus on styles that I could include in a core wardrobe, which really was my ultimate goal from the beginning of the series.

Aaaaaaand….. We’ve made it! While I’m far from being done writing about Kibbe related sewing topics, I’m really excited that we’ve finally made it through our main tour of the Kibbe style IDs. Stay tuned for more Kibbe related sewing rambles, though perhaps not quite as regularly as this posts in this main series. I expect I’ll be needing to take a bit of a break during most of January due to real life things, but hopefully I’ll be able to get a few rambling sewing posts up around the end of next month. Plus, after all of this research, I’ve definitely got some exciting Kibbe related sewing plans in the works, so if you fear the Kibbe withdrawal, feel free to come back tomorrow to check out my new year’s sewing plans!

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38 thoughts on “Sew Your Kibbe: Soft Natural”

I tried to pay extra close attention to this one, since I suspect that it may fit my body type the best. Even if my arms may be a little too long to be 100% matching, as I always have to add length to long sleeved things. Overall, I feel like these slightly less constructed styles are ones that I would be much more drawn to now than before I had kids. I wore a lot more fitted-waist garments then. I did recognize a few things from my own pattern stash here (I’d love an excuse to make Vogue 1031, but there’s not much call for evening gowns in my life these days!) I think that I could see myself wearing a lot of the tops/skirts styles, but my first reaction to the pants was struggling to figure out how jeans fit into this style ID, since that is a staple for me. I guess I could look into a wide legged pair…

I think lots of jeans types would work. Since Kibbe recommends both straight leg pants and tapered pants for this ID, I think it gives a lot of leeway in choosing jeans styles. I think a key idea is balance – if you are wearing a more unconstructed top, a tighter/tapered jean would likely be better, whereas if you are including waist emphasis in the top, then a wider legged/bootcut/bell bottom style might be better to create the overall image. I probably should have included more jeans patterns in this post…

I have loved reading these, and have concluded I am a Natural of some sort. I have to say I don’t identify very much with the SN, though I have the fleshy upper arms/thighs/derriere nothing else seems to chime. I only noticed a few patterns from my stash in SN (unlike FN and N) as it seems a bit too drapey for my frame. How can I test which type of Natural I am with clothing silhouettes? I really like to wear straight legged trousers (slightly wide), with a slightly loose scoop necked 3/4 sleeve knit top and a longer open jacket with no lapels. Then brogue shoes and a mid calf length coat with wide shawl collar and soft tie belt (no closures). I have a waist at the back, but not at the front!

TBH it sounds like you enjoy more of the pure Natural look? It seems like you can cross a little into both Soft and Flamboyant Natural styles a little, but the clean, loose lines sounds like they would best fit the pure Natural recommendations. Hope that helps!

I have been waiting eagerly for this post as I am one that is having trouble figuring out whether I am SC or SN. I feel a bit conflicted because while I did like some of the styles in this post (straight to wide leg pants, tops with detail, and flowy skirts), I didn’t care for some of them. Personality-wise, I fit much better in the SC camp but my broad shoulders and rib cage always have me thinking I am SN. I do like my clothes to have some movement, but I generally hate to wear belted things (other than pants) as the belt always moves around on my waist and feels very restrictive. I was once told I was a FN (albeit on the short side at 5’6″) but the huge, oversized shapes seem overwhelming to me.

It’s possible that you could be a Soft Natural and drawn to Soft Classic style. Or you could be a Soft Classic who just happens to have broad shoulders; it’s never one attribute that determines a Kibbe type. If you are Soft Natural who likes Soft Classic style, then this look isn’t too hard to pull off actually; if you stick to the simpler silhouettes you could achieve a classic look, while still having silhouettes that are ostensibly “Soft Natural” in a practical way. On the other hand, perhaps you are Soft Classic, but you might have to look for slightly more relaxed tops or do a broad shoulder adjustment to the pattern to make them work. It sounds like you are leaning towards Soft Classic though; it might be worth starting there and seeing if you really do like that style more. If you find you struggle to fit into that crisp Classic sense of a clean appearance then I would revisit Soft Natural, but if you feel like Soft Natural is just a bit too sloppy and wild then Soft Classic is probably the better fit.

Thanks so much for this post! I love so many of these pieces, and was nodding along with a lot of them and some are already in my closet. I do relate to the idea of SN not fitting in with the other naturals. Sometimes I’ve felt that boobs = Romantic for some people, never mind that body frame is an equal player and I definitely have a blunter, broader skeletal structure despite the fleshy overtones.

Thank you so much Doctor T, for putting such a lot of your time and energy into this Kibbe series. I have been waiting for this post, as I feel that I too am a Soft Natural. As you commented, I also initially thought I was a Soft Classic but some little points didn’t gel, I love geometric patterns. Thanks again Barbara

I feel like I’ve been waiting for ever for you to post on soft natural! Part of this is definitely my shape (broad shoulders, strong bone structure but very curvy on top) some of the styles, tops and dresses definitely resonate with me but others absolutely not, nipped in ankles on pants just emphasis the size of my bum and belted coats look fine when belted but terrible the rest of the time. Just goes to prove that there is no hard and fast rule for anyone

I love this series!!!!! However you look very pretty, i am pretty sure the romantic lines would suit you very well- if better. You have such a large rounded eyes, quite face with rounded chin, beutifull Hourglass. Hope you’ll niet be angry! Have you tried them yet?

I agree I have a very rounded facial features, but I’m pretty sure I’m not Romantic. I’m fairly tall and I have pretty wide bones. My sister is 100% Romantic, and we really don’t wear the same sorts of clothes well at all.

I agree that there is a huge range in all types, and I wasn’t trying to indicate that there wasn’t. I just really don’t think I’m a Romantic type. When I look at the Romantic recommendations I feel like I could pick and choose *some* of the items which I could wear well, but with Soft Natural I feel like I could pick and wear any of the styles. To be fair, there are a lot of styles that overlap between the two, and I will say I do look good in a lot of those overlap recommendations, but when I look at options that don’t overlap I feel like I’d fit in the Soft Natural camp over the Romantic one. If I find Soft Natural isn’t working for me at some point, I would probably consider Romantic as my next area of exploration, but for now I’m quite happy in the Soft Natural space and don’t really feel a need to look elsewhere for inspiration.

Well a lot of lovely patterns here and quite a few on my to sew list. I am still torn though as I loved so many of the patterns from the soft classic section and some from the soft dramatic. I will have to do some experimenting to see what works for me. I have recently made Burdastyle 02 2018 120 Bow back blouse which was more unconstructed than I usually wear and I love it tucked into culottes. (I did have to add waist darts at the back to get rid of some of the pouffiness). I will just mention though that I tried Butterick 5523 and it did not work at all for me. Thank you so much for this excellent series of posts. Lots of things to think about now…

Yeah, of all the types I feel like this has the most contradictory recommendations, and it was tricky to create the vision of Kibbe in modern patterns. I really love all of these styles though, and I’m excited to sew from a more curated selection next year.

Thank you for this wonderful post and the whole series! I have been fascinated by the whole Kibbe thing, but also spent many an evening frustratedly studying my lines, pattern lines and videos, because so much of it didn’t really fit. My first instinct was a Classic and this is what I have finally come back to. This last post really drove home to me that while I am drawn to more flowing patterns, because Burda does them so well, I consistently feel overwhelmed by all the fabric. Loose, unconstructed styles make me uncomfortable because I constantly need to pull them back into shape. I am most at peace in the Classic tailoring. The constant emphasis on “crispness” threw me off, because my life is so casual. Also, most of the patterns you showed seemed to fit that conservative blazer and pencil skirt image. But now I’ve understood that crisp and tailored means what I’d call “structured”. I love a bit of draping detail or a slight waterfall, maybe even a bit of blousing, definitely a flared skirt, but only in a very structured piece, with darts, fitted around the shoulder and back, not out of a drapey fabric. And on the whole, a slimmer line, understated details.
Thanks for giving me an opportunity to see myself in all of the style IDs, and a place to ramble 😀
(PS: it immediately made sense to me that you’re a SN, you look amazing in the soft waist emphasis and loose draping! And, like Scarlett Johansen or Selena Gomez in Merriam’s videos, you have this doe-eyed softness with a broader body)
Looking forward to your next Kibbe influenced plans! Isi

Thanks! I’m so glad you were able to find yourself in this series. Crispness is definitely the same thing as structure in clothing – and it is exactly why I feel so awkward in some clothing styles. But I can totally understand why it would be the reverse for someone who is Classic! Just goes to show how having a unique style can really help with both comfort and self confidence.

This is a great one for your grand finale! I had expected the naturals to be simpler to understand and identify than the rest but you’ve proven me wrong three times. They are actually quite complex. I agree this one is especially difficult and several times I had to reread the recommendations because they seemed to conflict.

What a wonderful end to the series! Thank you so much for the immense amount of work that went into these posts.

I’ve really looked forward to this last post, since I was initially on the fence about whether I’m a Soft Dramatic or a Soft Natural. The bone structure (wide and angular vs. wide and blunt) question has plagued me! Now that you’ve analyzed the patterns for both, though, it’s easy to pinpoint which works better. While I love the soft draping that both IDs need, the unconstructed silhouettes of the SN don’t work on me at all. Definitely, definitely a Soft Dramatic. I can easily see borrowing from the Soft Natural patterns, when wanting something more casual, though. It’s so interesting spotting the various overlaps in the various IDs and watching some patterns pop up across the spectrum.

I also wonder if many Indie pattern companies aren’t unconsciously geared toward Soft Naturals? There’s a certain casual, unstructured elegance that the Indie sewing world has embraced that strikes me as ideal for this ID. I think of Closet Case Patterns or Chalk & Notch, specifically, and so many of their patterns would work for SNs. (It also might be why many Indie patterns leave me feeling frumpy, when they look so elegant on other sewists. They’re not meant for SDs!)

I think the Naturals are having a fashion moment right now; I expect general trends will move away from this style in the future. I do want to do a Kibbe through the decades post, and look at how style trends have changed and which style IDs best fit into those looks. I also plan on doing a Kibbe/Indie pattern post because I agree that a lot of the indie brands tend to have a single aesthetic they design for (which is why I focused on Burda/Big 4 for the series). I probably will not be able to post these until February at the earliest, but they are definitely in the works.

This was so great to see. I liked lots but most of these styles leave feeling like I’m swimming. Especially the loosely belted longish jackets and sweaters. It’s seeing so many examples of each type and level of dress that really helps to get an overall vision of each ID. If we just looked at skirts I’d have a more difficult time since I like almost every skirt out there. Jackets are another matter. I have a much narrower range that works for me. Most tend to gather dust. Short shapely cardigans especially with ruffles and details are my first pick.

I’ve loved this series and it has been a fantastic resource ever since. One of the things I really liked was to see patterns from older Burda Style magazines. So much so that I have been buying issues on ebay from 2005 – 2014 (when I originally started buying them). The other posts that you do that I really love are the Burda Style magazine reviews so…. would you ever consider writing the occasional review for some of your older magazines? Lol in case you ever run out of things to write about! 😋 It would be another great resource if people were thinking of trying to find a particular issue and I would be interested to see which magazines were your favourites and why.

Hallo,
thank you very much for this great pattern selection! Now I am sure to be a SN.
But I have a problem with your pattern selection for level 2-jackets: I need a lot of waist-shaping in the back, and therefore a belt produces lots of bulk there.
Kibbe writes: “Jackets: Jackets should be unconstructed, soft, and always showing the waist (but not necessarily emphasizing it). This can be a jacket that is shaped through the waist, or it can be a jacket that is unstructured and very lightweight or flimsy, so that it drapes around the body …”

Yes, I think it could work. You might want to pair it with a cowl neck blouse or some SN jewelry near the face to make the whole outfit feel a bit more SN, but it could definitely work in the context of a whole outfit.

You have done an incredible job with this! I have searched and guessing wrong for ages! I find classic too restrictive plus I am definitely hourglass. Somewhere between Theatrical Romantic and Soft Natural – not so tall 5’3″ and love asymmetry. Both some soft and angular features – oval face, prominent cheekbones, small mouth. Your dictionary of Style types and patterns is a fabulous work of art and much labor. Thank you so much.