Island Wines: Sardegna & Canary Islands

Island wines are extreme wines. Sicily certainly jumps to mind, with producers like Cos, Occhipinti, Frank Cornelissen and others pushing the boundaries of natural and wild wine making, or growing if you like. After trying wines from both Sardegna (Sardinia) and the Canary Islands recently while out and about, I was struck by the grapes, the terroirs, and unique and different expressions of the wines I was drinking. I had a great 2008 Negramoll from the Canary Islands at Anfora Wine Bar, and though I was able to track down the producer, Bodegas Caraballo at Chambers Street Wines, it was the 2009 vintage. And after trying several Cannonau’s from Sardegna at our local Italian favorite PT, I had become smitten with the character of these wines as well. And PT’s sister wine shop D.O.C. carried my favorite Cannonau on the menu, Meloni’s Terrforru, so I picked up one of those to try at home. In some way I was actually shocked that the wines were so good, and so unique. They really grab you because they are different, and I like different.

Meloni 2009 Terreforru – Cannonau di Sardegna $18.00

The color is on the darker side of garnet. On the nose there are developments of cherry red fruit, bubble gum, and spice. There are also, sweet green peas, earth and caramel and this is all wrapped in lite sweet tannins. The wine opens with a funky play but with more and more air it gets more and more pretty. The wine is light on its feet, yet pretty complex. As the wine develops, there are even darker notes of chocolate and smokey fruit. Great affordable stuff from an unexpected place and organic to boot. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED – MUST BUY

Bodegas Carabollo – 2009 Tinto Negramoll $19.99

Medium Garnet in color, the wine opens with an initial play of gunpowder and lite cherry syrup. But this begins to change and fade. Salt water, bubble gum and lite sweet cherry fruit come into play. The wine is medium bodied at best, and is interesting, but lacks some of the breakout/freak factor that I have seen in some other wines from the Canary Islands. None the less, very interesting, but not the finest example from this emerging island. Also organic, nothing added nothing taken away. RECOMMENDED