March 21, 2008

l'Epigramme in the 6th - An archival review* and update.

"A gem in a sea of dreck.

6.6-8.8 l’Epigramme, 9, rue de L’Eperon in the 6th, 01 44 41 00 09, closed Sunday nights and Mondays, is a little jewel (30 covers) of a restaurant in the midst of tourist central (think Allard and Camdeborde.) Four of us ate there on a recent Saturday* and loved it.

The host Stephane offered us an amuse bouche of a terrine that was very good, especially with the Fitou we chose to start (and continue) with, despite his suggestion that we move onto a Bergerac.

All four of us had 4 scallops each on a puree of cauliflower (that tasted of celeriac) on half-shells (4 € supplemental) that one of us thought had too many salt crystals on it, then two had a poitrine of veal (not on the chalkboard that lunch-time but apparently on it for that evening) that I found just fine but they thought was surpassed by my lievre royale that had the most intense, thick, dark, great-tasting black sauce imaginable (10 € supplement) and my friend Atar’s ox-tail stew with chopped root vegetables.

Finally one of our guests had the very fine St Nectaire and the other a big portion of rice pudding that he declared quite good. If you take away the supplements, celebratory extra booze, etc., lunch for two (3 courses, wine and coffee and no bottled water) would only run you 77 €.

Oh yah, it’s hot, go fast, even famous chefs on their days off, eat there.

Should one go? You betcha; fast!"
*First published in November 2007.

Update March 21, 2008:

Four of ate here today and again were warmly welcomed. Two of us started with terrific warm tete de veau slices.

Then the ladies had the rascasse on a bed of veggies in a brown sauce. One "recipient" liked the dish but the other added salt and was not impressed with the product nor the veggies and sauce. However, I really liked my beef cheeks stuffed with mushrooms and Monsieur his veal on a bed of sweet-potato.

Everyone but me had dessert; one had a serving of chopped apples in a sable "sandwich;" two others had mixture of banana, chunks of chocolate cookie and formage blanc. Both were quite good.

The bill was 73.50 Euros a couple with wine, coffee but no bottled water. Our rating was about a 6.0.