Tag Archives: barbering

A couple of weeks ago, my buddy Chris aka Cream The Barber presented the opportunity to assist him in his Hattori Hanzo Clipper Cutting class. While at one point the opportunity to have my own haircutting class presented itself, I truly felt that (at that moment in time) I wasn’t fit to teach anyone “my” techniques. But, that was a while ago! And helping out for a class wasn’t something I couldn’t do. So, it was done!

The class was held at a salon in San Jose called Stocks and Blondes, which oddly enough was a salon I was relatively familiar with. The salon was set up to accommodate 40 or so stylists/barbers. At first, I was skeptical that it would be that big of a class, but as we got to the salon, finding an empty seat wasn’t easy! Pretty sure there were a few people left standing.

GAMETIME!

Since we were dealing with more stylists than barbers, getting them hip to clipper lingo was important. Funny enough, a majority of these gals probably have been doing hair far longer than I have, but weren’t well versed in barber terminology for the hardware we use. But… that’s expected… Since it’s not something they do on a daily basis, it’s not surprising that their knowledge of clippers wasn’t the same as a barbers, especially since a majority of them were used to scissor-over-comb everything! But, with a crowd this eager to learn, it wasn’t difficult getting them up to speed.

After the theory portion of the class, it was time for the fun part… THE DEMO!

Chris has his way of fading, which is similar to many barbers, but is also different from a lot of barbers… yeah, get it?

Now: How does he fade? WELL…That’s something you’ll have to learn by attending one of his classes! Trust me, it’s well worth it. Why wouldn’t you invest in education for yourself?

The tools and implements he would use to perform the haircut.

What haircut would he demo? Of course, one popular one that you’ll see at least 3 of done in a shop: A zero fade with a sidepart/undercut/hardpart/combover/name that ‘do.

Full attendance ready to learn!

Demonstrating one of many ways to set a guideline.

Throughout the demo, questions were asked, and where I could shoot my feedback, I would. I also asked a few questions that the class wouldn’t have asked, but felt it were something that would benefit them. I mean, hey, I’m here to help in any way I could!

Can’t be a Hattori Hanzo class without using some Hattori Hanzos!

Quick before and after!

After the demo was finished, the salon cleared out and there were 6 stylists left for the hands-on learning portion of the class. Now I could help out a bit more!

For the most part, it went smoothly. Obviously, getting a hairstylist that is only comfortable doing scissor-over-comb to go as short as 000 was a mission! Hell, getting their clients to get comfortable with them going that short was a task in itself! But, with all learning experiences, it’s something you have to ease into. Definitely glad that a majority of them were up for the challenge. But the hard part? Was not having the right tools to perform the cuts!

Now, a lot of stylists usually have an Oster 76 with only a handful of blades, or the familiar Wahl Designers. But not everyone in the class had the tools on hand, or the right blade, or guards. So, for some of them, a bit of improvising was done. Others had to borrow blades from others. And getting them to be comfortable with handling the clippers was something that took a bit of getting used to. But hey, we’re here to learn.

The overall experience of teaching someone how to cut hair was a blast. It makes me kind of wish I were able to have my own classes! But, that’s something that’ll happen later down the line!

Having people willing to drop everything they know and do what you tell them to do made the experience that much easier. You’re usually met with rhetorical or backhanded questions whenever you try .to “teach” an existing stylist how to cut hair a certain way. It’s a given… You have people who have been doing something one way for several years, it’s not like you’ll be able to change their views on haircutting in one go. But, once you let them know that 2+1=3 as is 1+1+1=3, they’ll get it and become a little more welcoming to learning a new trick or two.

Big thanks again to Chris aka Cream The Barber for the opportunity! I can’t wait to be cutting in his shop, where it’ll be like having a barbering class all day long!

Well folks, I hope some of you are excited to see me posting again. Trying to work in the time to blog, work full-time and be a father is a daunting task! But hey, it has to be done!

So stay tuned for more barbering related posts, backlogged pomade reviews, and more!

As most of you know, I’ve seen been cutting hair down in the Peninsula (20 minutes south of San Francisco) previously in Redwood City and now (currently) in Belmont. And for some of my San Francisco based clients, it wasn’t feasible to make the trek down to see me… which is perfectly understandable. But for those clients that have stuck with me through the transitions: I appreciate y’all! But… there’s some good news to be had!

Starting October 21, I’ll be splitting my time from my Belmont location with the brand new barber shop in the Dogpatch district, Cream’s Barbershoppe, owned by none other than Chris Eliares. He was one of the barbers I worked with at the beginning stages of my career that helped me progress in this craft, so getting back into the swing of things alongside of him will only lead to more progression! I definitely can’t wait to be back up in San Francisco, cutting hair, no less!

For the time being, I will only be working on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, with the potential of being opened on Mondays given the demand.

So, if you’re one of my previous clients from San Francisco or looking for a barber in the San Francisco Bay Area, book an appointment with me at the new location. There’s some fun to be had! Book an appointment with me via email:

therebelrouser@yahoo.com

Other methods of booking an appointment will be updated in a later date.

Earlier this evening as I was checking out my last client, I saw a gentleman walk past the shop and straight towards the salon next door. As my client walks out, he walks up to the door and asks, “are you guys still opened?” I tell him that, ‘I’m still in the shop, so why not.’

He walks in wondering what sort of decision he made by going into the barber shop as opposed to the salon next door (which was already closed.)

I tell him the differences between a barber and a cosmetologist, and break down that it’s like a metal worker versus a wood worker. Both use similar techniques to manipulate the pieces they are working on, but do so in a trade-specific manner. He starts to “get” what I’m getting at, and I further hip him to what I feel going to a barber shop provides for a man.

As the conversation progresses, he tells me that he YELPed three places to get his hair down… All of which were salons (which he was used to.) One was no more than 3/4 a mile from his house, which was closed by 5. He rolls up to our block, where there are two salons which are separated no more than 120 feet…Both of which are closed well before their advertised “closing” hours. He was surprised that out of the 3 shops he checked out, 2 of which should have been opened by the time he got there and were well closed, that the shop that closed the earliest (our shop which typically closes at 3 on Saturdays) was opened and willing to take in someone this late in the day without hesitation or showing declination of the quality of service… I joke with him that I didn’t get to take a lunch and that I had a Gatorade to sustain me… Wish I had brought a new jug of water at the very least!

While I finish off the haircut with the straight razor on the neckline and having him double check my work, he gets up and is enthused at the fact that someone was working as long as I was and was willing to keep going. After the boss made a joke about us charging $40 (n jest of the salons within the area charging similar prices) he puts $40 on the counter and looks at my boss and say, “See, I spent $40 on a haircut, because you got someone willing to work well after every one is closed… You got enough to get yourself something other than a Gatorade for lunch!” Well… something very similar along those lines, haha.

Moral of this story? Is that being a barber is more than giving someone a dope haircut, a skin-tight fade, or being booked out for two weeks striaght. It’s more than just a straight razor finish or a can of pomade, or one of those faux-gentlemen courtesy consultations. I don’t act prim nor proper to get people to enjoy sitting in my chair. You won’t get a white towel slung over my left forearm like a waiter or me presenting an open seat like a magician. Cut the bullshit, because that’s as authentic as the next shop half-way across the country putting on that same act to rise up getting an extra $5 in your tip. You’re getting what it is I, as a man, as a barber can offer… and that’s genuine human interaction, advice, shared experiences, a good laugh at a few jokes, finished off with a firm handshake and the knowing that you’ll be able to have that same experience in 2-4 weeks. What other place can you really get that?

I’m no longer cutting hair in Redwood City. Best wishes for the shop, and if you continue to get your hair cut there and not by me — no hard feelings. It’s a cool shop and I wish them the best. But, if you’re trying to find out here I’m putting hair on the floor…

You can find me at Bushwackers Barber Shop in Belmont, 1024 Sixth Ave.

Just quick update since some people aren’t quite aware of where I’m at to book an appointment with me:

Since the morning of 01/31/2014, I was no longer a barber at The Barber Lounge in San Francisco and haven’t had any further appointments in the shop for the following month, and have been cutting hair in Redwood City.

I would like to thank each and every one of my clients I have met and made through the shop. I know many of you tried to make appointments with me at the shop, though I am no longer there. It’s been an honor to have had the opportunity to give you the best possible haircut I could offer and have your patience and willingness to help me grow as a barber. It’s been a blast and I hope to eventually have each and every one of you back in the chair at somepoint.

If any one of my previous clients in San Francisco are looking to make in-house or in-office haircut appointments, I schedule appointments on Tuesdays starting at 11. Cutoff time to book an appointment is 4, unless I’m already in the city tending to another client. A week in advance notice is preferred.

To book one of these appointments, email me at: therebelrouser@yahoo.com

Well, I hope that clears up any misconception as to where I’ve taken my barbering services to, as I’ve had several requests to book appointments at The Barber Lounge in San Francisco.

Even before I got into barbering, I was a fan of Schorem Haarsnijder en Barbier. When looking for photos of classically cut hairstyles you’ll know when you’ve come across one of their signature cuts. Their attention to detail is second to none. So when I stepped into the world of barbering, I’ve done my best to uphold their standards – not only in terms of haircutting, but also the principles of being a barber. While I haven’t had the luxury of flying out to Rotterdam to experience thee experience, and be under the tutelage of these world class barbers, this is the next best thing. I’ve already watched the entire DVD once and I’ve already learned something new. With barbering, learning something new is something you can’t not do! I’m definitely glad to have something to help give me a better idea as to how they perform haircuts the traditional way. If you’re a barber or just a fan of Schorem Haarsnijder en Barbier, this DVD is a must have! Big thanks to the good folks at Schorem for taking the time to produce this DVD!

In addition to my first clipper review, I figured instead of reviewing another clipper right off the bat, I’d review a trimmer, so the up-and-coming barbers have a better idea as to the variations of tools they’ll need. Pretty damn helpful, if I do say so myself…

So next up, I’ll be reviewing one of the most popular trimmers by Andis, the T-Outliner, as well as the GTX version. What are the exact differences? Keep reading to find out!

Andis is definitely one of the top brands used by barbers. Chances are, if your barber isn’t using an Andis adjustable clipper or detachable, they’re definitely using one of their liners! From my short, yet, pretty consistent career in barbering, I’ve found my preference in trimmers to be with Andis. While I do have some by Wahl, I end up using my trimmers from Andis a whole lot more often and have several kinds. But, today we’re focusing on the T-Outliners, so let’s stick to it!

The typical T-Outliner you’ll find in stores or online is the one with the grey body and maroon flip switch. There’s also the Outliner II which has the square blade, but I’ve gotten used to maneuvering the corners of the T-blade well enough, that I’m not in dire-need of the square blade. But, it’s all preference. The GTX is part of their Experience line, which has very slight yet noticeable differences between the general line and the Experience line.

Body wise: They are identical in every which way…

One difference you’ll notice between the normal liner and the GTX liner is the blade. While identical in-terms of T-blade or square blade, the teeth on the stationary blade is a lot deeper on the GTX blade. This is supposed to allow a better/cleaner feed of hair through to the cutting blade, which is supposed to cut longer hairs a lot smoother without leaving such a blunt cut. And paired with a powerful magnetic motor, you’ll get just that!

The reason I’m more inclined to use this type of trimmer as opposed to Wahl, is because of the motor. Personally, I’ve preferred the cut of magnetic motored trimmers as opposed to the rotary motored trimmers Wahl offers. And if you’ve read my first clipper review, you’ll know my stance on rotary motor clippers! But, magnetic motor trimmers do get hotter, and quicker, so take that into consideration. If you’re new and are taking your time when cleaning the outline of a haircut, check the heat of the blade so you aren’t searing your client by the time you switch sides. This is why you’ll typically see 2-3 of this style trimmer at a barbers station. (As well as blade adjustments, of course, but that’s a post its own.)

I find the strokes to be a lot more powerful and consistent… something a female has yet to tell me… Sigh… in due time… But, sometimes, the strength of the motor isn’t always the case… Sometimes you gotta go in DEEP! Yet another thing a female has yet to tell me… Sigh… in another lifetime, I suppose… [Innuendos end here.]

On my grey T-liners, I’ve adjusted the blade so that the moving blade sits up closer to the stationary blade. Since it doesn’t have the deeper teeth, the feed of hair is very short and not very precise. Having moved the blade forward, I’ve gotten cleaner and more consistent linings. While I don’t mind the way the stock deep-toothed blade cuts, I feel that I’d be a bit more satisfied with a slightly adjusted blade. We’ll play things out and see how it goes!

Since I did adjust my blades, it does mean the moving blade is that much closer to the clients skin! If you’re looking to adjust your liners in the same manner that I did, be careful! If you aren’t cautious, you’ll potentially leave a client with a neckline like this:

Note: This isn’t my haircut nor my mistakes. This is a customer that came in to get his haircut fixed and have what the fuck happened to him figured out! This was his first haircut in America! That’s not how it should be done… Here’s his haircut post Rebel Rouser…

This is the results of a trimmer that’s poorly adjusted and pressed too deeply into a clients nape! This is something you don’t want! You need to take note of both the teeth overlapping or not, as well as the angle you’d hold the clipper post-adjustment. If they’re adjusted and are cutting smoothly straight on, but a slight 15* change in angle may still be cutting too close to the skin. I’ve adjusted several blades throughout barber school as well as in the barber shop, but that doesn’t mean I’m a pro! So don’t just dive in and move your blades around without proper research and testing it on yourself. My thing is, if it hurts your then it’ll definitely hurt anyone in your chair!

Also, if you’re a heavy-handed barber, be very careful with adjusted liner blades, as even too much pressure may cause irritation…

Another difference between the T-Outliner and the GTX edition, is the cord. The GTX has a 3-pronged plug and a much thicker cord. I do feel a bit more of a kick when I flip the switch, but haven’t noticed if it’s the power that changes the cut or the blade.

The thicker cord does add some extra weight to the clipper. It’s surprising how much weight is added to the clipper, making it seem a bit more hefty in your hand than the usual liner. Not a bad thing, as I don’t mind the slight difference, but it’ll definitely take some getting used to. But if you’re a beefcake-heavy-handed barber, it should feel no different-than a triple cheeseburger.

Andis trimmers are my overall favorite trimmers on the market. I just prefer the magnetic motor on them over the rotary trimmers. I find myself going back to “Old Faithful” whenever I feel like having a crispier outline finish, and it never does me any wrong! I’d definitely suggest these trimmers over most on the market for barbers, or even at-home use for facial and neckline clean ups. But, remember, if you’re looking to adjust the blades on your clipper, do your homework first, so you don’t get people crying and bleeding in your chair! Check out the Andis T-Outliner and all of it’s variations, and find out which is the one for you to add to your barbering arsenal!

Now, is the price-point of the GTX liner warranted over the general T-Outliner? That’s dependent on you… They do offer a black version of the T-Outliner, but if you’re looking to pair it with a deep-tooth blade, then you’re pretty much paying the same amount. Do your homework and look for the shops that have the best prices, you can never go wrong with a well priced clipper or trimmer!

Alright, folks. I hope y’all enjoyed my second clipper/trimmer review, and the first one of the year! I hope this helps out you newer barbers, and was entertaining enough for you non-barbers! Until the next time, folks.

With several clippers on the market and several more popping up, it’s easy for up-and-coming barbers to get confused as to which one is “best.” In reality, just like pomade, there is no one “best” clipper. There are some you might take a liking to more-so than the others, but ultimately there are no “best” when it comes to clippers. Unfortunately, it’s not at all difficult to compile a list of ‘bad’ clippers. And of course, I do my best to help educate everyone so they don’t have to have a stockpile of ‘bad’ products!

Now, this is my very first clipper review. I do intend on reviewing the more popular clippers, but this one has stood out enough to warrant getting my ass to start reviewing clippers So, time to get on with the show!

Wahl is one of the top companies that makes clippers. There’s no doubt about it. Whether you’ve bought a set of at-home clippers, professional grade clippers or trimmers, or shavers, Wahl is a name most households know. From my personal experience, they’ve offered amazing customer service while certain other brands have not, which keeps me interested in buying their products.

While several of their clippers are nearly identical from the internals machine works to the exterior casing, it’s not hard to buy several of (essentially) the same clipper… and you won’t exactly have any remorse doing so, either! So, when I saw that they had a clipper that stood out from the rest, I told Santa what I wanted and the day following Christmas I had one! For barbers, nothing is more exciting than a new pair of clippers! Well, maybe other than a new client…

Introducing: The Wahl Pilot Clipper.

Just by looking at it, it looks like any other Wahl clipper, with a top casing similar to the Seniors. But, unlike the Seniors, the body is completely made of plastic, so you don’t have the hefty weight. But, that’s not the only thing cutting the weight…

The size!

Aside from just the plastic housing, being 1.25 times smaller than the normal Wahl Senior shaves the weight off the Pilot is considerably lighter, and it fits right in your palm. Get it? Palm Pilot? I think I might be the only barber who got that reference…

This thing definitely feels as light as (if not lighter than some) some trimmers. For you heavy handed barbers, you might need to take it easy with these guys, as the lighter body might have you smackin’ some dudes up-side the head! Shit, if you’re heavy handed and already smackin’ dudes with metal clippers, it ain’t like it’ll be that much worse! Haha. While I don’t mind the weight of metal clippers, it is nice to have something lighter in the hand.

I have some decent sized hands, so they surprisingly fit well in my palm. But, it does leave a sensitive area opened for overly-easy access…

Unlike other Wahl clippers, the power switch is a toggle switch on the bottom of the clipper. For some, this isn’t an issue. But for me and my average man-hands, I often find myself flicking the switch more than I’d like to. One thing I liked about the switch on the Seniors was that it wasn’t like a hair-trigger and actually took some effort to knock the switch to on. With these, the slightest will flip it on. So be aware of that when you take this into consideration.

Blade wise, they come with the standard taper blade found on the grey Seniors and not the surgical blade seen on the 5 Star Seniors or Sterling Reflection Seniors (same thing as the 5 Stars.)

The underbelly of the clipper has a nice little contour to sit a bit more firmly in the palm. Not a bad addition, but not the most necessary in my opinion… But, of course, this is aimed more-so towards stylists with smaller hands…

The notches for the lever are a nice touch to Wahl Clippers. While most barbers are already used to the trigger play with the lever, it is a nice and helpful addition. Nice move, Wahl! But… there’s one problem…

Unlike another brand that has the notches, the notches on the Pilot don’t line directly with the adjustable lever, which may leave some people confused as to where the lever should be…

All the way closed the lever is not aligned to any notch, same goes for all the way opened. But, now there’s 4 notches rather than the typical middle and the in-between notches… So, is this supposed to mean more blending?

Now: The big issue… the motor…

I’ve found rotary motored clippers to give me the most problems. They snag on all types of hair and that isn’t helpful when trying to win over a new client. Trust me, if they get one tugged hair too many they’ll just say ‘FUCK IT!’ and find a new chair to sit in. Not fun. So, does this mean the Wahl Pilot suffers the same fate as other rotary motor clippers?

And the answer is…

Yes… Yes it does… Right off the bat, I found this clipper snagging hair like no other. Of couse, just as right above the clipper blades read, I always keep my blades oiled after every cut. Oiling the blade a bit more after each cut did help to an extent, but even so, all it took was one patch of hair too thick till this clipper got a snaggin’ again. DAMMIT!

I know what you’re thinking: “What type of hair was it?” Simple… The first head of hair it snagged on was thick and the second was fine hair, and it snagged on everything in-between. I found it to even snag on fine blonde hair! NOTHING SNAGS ON FINE BLONDE HAIR!

I do enjoy the way rotary motor clippers cut clipper over comb, but without the guard and straight to the meat – can’t do it. I don’t want to risk losing a client because a clippers performance isn’t up to par. So, this clipper won’t be used for anything under a 0 clip… I had high hopes for this thing too!

If you’re a cosmetologist who doesn’t cut anything below a 1 or a 0 guard, you should be fine with this clipper. But if you dare go down to the meat, I’d highly suggest finding something a bit more powerful, or invest in a few bottles of oil! Because that’s the only thing that will save your clients hair from being snagged, and that’s only if you’re lucky! I did find myself oiling this thing up a good 2-3 times per cut, when I usually only have to oil after a cut or even after every other cut!

But, hopefully someone else will have better results than mine…

Overall: While I do dig the smaller size of the clipper and the lighter weight, I think it needs that magnetic motor to really set things off. Had it had more power so it wouldn’t snag on any hair, I’d probably be able to look past the Like-A-Virgin toggle switch or the extra notch. But the fact that it snags that easily, even after a generous amount of oil, it’s hard for me to recommend this clipper over any other Wahl Clipper. I’ll definitely be keeping this thing around and using it for parts of the haircut after skin and for clipper-over-comb, but aside from that, I’ll be sticking with both pairs of Seniors to do the detail work. Damn shame, too! Especially since a Wahl rep told me the power would be in-between the v5000 and the v9000! Definitely feels a lot weaker than the v5000, that’s for sure!

So, don’t look to switch away from your Seniors, Magic Clips of Super Tapers for the Wahl Pilot. While it’s a fun addition to a clipper arsenal, it’s not the most necessary. I really wanted to love this clipper due to the smaller size and lighter weight, but I can’t look past performance over aesthetic. Performance comes first and foremost when it comes to barbering, at least when it comes to the tools you use.

Well, I hope y’all dug my first clipper review! I’ll definitely be reviewing more since I have better experience with em nowadays. So, stay tuned!