>> Instead of the normal tent venue at Jardin de Tuileries in Paris, John Gallianomoved his Fall 2009 couture show — which played twice-over for the first time in a number of seasons — to the upstairs salons of Dior flagship in Paris. The models wound their way through the considerably smaller venue — which apparently got a little warm — to a soundtrack of giggling girls, allowing the audience to see the garments closer than usual.

The decision to go with a more intimate venue was not for cost-cutting purposes, according to Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who said it was just as expensive to show in-house, what with the 4,000 roses decorating the runway; rather, it was to express the spirit of couture. He maintained that Dior's couture sales in London alone are seeing a double-digit increase — perhaps that's why Galliano felt able to send down undergarment-revealing looks — "I call it 'cabine' fever!" — inspired by archive photographs from the '50s of Christian Dior in the midst of backstage mayhem.

Even in these times, there was still a feeling of excess — the final tulle gowns required two ushers to help the models and dresses through the doorway — and the label claimed model exclusives, including Chanel Iman. But there was still an element of practicality — clients will be able to order the jackets with matching skirts, skirts with matching jackets, or request sheer skirts to be lined. Now the question remains: where was Anna Wintour?