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River crossings mean 100% concentration. All. The. Time. The rivers are always smarter, stronger, and faster than you will ever be. I have a great love for the water, and mad respect for Mother Nature. #newzealand #rivers #teararoa #tramping #mothernature

When I got to Arthur’s Pass I decided to take a rest day at the YHA and work out how I was going to tackle the next section of the trail. It starts with two days of crossing the Minga and the Deception rivers. Just a week ago, a woman died trying to cross the Deception River. I
was feeling apprehensive about even doing the rivers. I was debating
all day whether I should just hitch around the two completely and start further up the trail. A gut feeling in my stomach told me I should.

Here’s when Jessica walked into my life. She is a smart, sweet Swedish woman also walking the Te Araroa Northbound. She caught up to me in Arthur’s Pass. When she walked into the hostel, she asked for a room for 3 days. The man at the desk said he only had a room available for that night. She took it and said she would figure out where to stay tomorrow later. I knew she was a Te Araroa walker from the moment I looked at her legs: scratches and scrapes from the ankles up to her thighs. I said, “are you hiking the Te Araroa?” she replied, “yes, are you Therese?” We chatted and she explained she had been following my progress and knew I would be there from my notes in the hut books.

I had gone into DOC (Department of Conservation) information center the day before and asked about the trail. They said the next 2 days were good to do the rivers, but then heavy rain was expected for the next 5 days after that. I told Jessica about this, the woman who died, and my apprehension of doing the two river crossings alone. She really wanted to take a full rest day because she had been walking for over 11 days straight, but she also did not want to get stuck in Arthur’s Pass for a week, waiting for the rain to clear. So, we decided that we would team up and do the river crossings together. We spent 2 days together, and they were wonderful.

The track, especially through the woods around the Deception River was absolutely breathtaking. The water in the river was gorgeous, clear, and powerful. I couldn’t help exclaiming out loud, “How beautiful! This is so amazing, I’m so happy we didn’t skip this section!” We also found ourselves scrambling up, down, and around huge boulders the size of cars. At one point I had to push my backpack over a huge boulder and crawl through a hole between two smaller boulders next to it in the river to get through. Jessica wanted to stay out of the water, so she went up into the woods, trying to go up and over. On the other side where she was supposed to come down was a steep slope. She took off her backpack and passed it down to me, then I half caught her while she jumped down from the cliff. In times like these, we were screaming at each other, “THIS IS CRAZY!! THIS IS NOT A TRAIL!” But, through all the craziness, we made it! We worked our asses off and pushed through two really long, hard days.

On the third day, we walked the first 3 hours together. At this point, we came to Locke Stream Hut, and Jessica decided it was best for her to have a short day and rest. I was still feeling good, so I decided to continue on for 6 more hours to the next hut. It was misting, but not too bad as I climbed up to Harper’s Pass. It was a steep climb up, but a much easier descent down past Hurunui Hut, along to Hurunui Hut #3 where I spent the night alone.

The 4th day I walked 29 km from #3 Hut to Hope Kiwi Lodge. Two hours into my walk I found a hot pool! I had a soak, and the sandflies had a bite, or 20, of my bare backside when I got out. The rest of the day’s walking was pretty easy and uneventful. I spent it avoiding horse poo and dreaming about getting to Hanmer Springs and having a coffee. I arrived at Hope Kiwi Lodge, which was huge and luxurious. I was so tired, I fell asleep as soon as I got there. I was woken by a hunter coming in. Later, two others on horses joined us. I had to fight the urge to ask them if I could go for a ride. I’ve been wanting to go horseback riding since I got to New Zealand. I am hoping it happens soon!

I woke up to the threat of rain on the horizon. I packed quickly and said my goodbyes. The hunter replied with, “alright I’ll see you up the trail.” I wanted to say, “oh no you won’t.” But alas, as I was trying to find my way across a pile of mixed rock next to a river, he caught up to me. He came up behind me and greeted me with a loud, “how’s it going?” Of course my reaction was a big, “AAAAHHHHH!” I get spooked easily. He offered me a ride from the carpark to Hamner Springs; I quickly accepted. Less offended that he caught up to me after that. He took the lead, and I followed him to Hope Shelter where he decided to take a break. I told him I’d keep walking, sure that he would catch up to me again. I booked it. I didn’t want him to catch up to me. I wanted to be faster!

I ended up stopping, taking a break, and talking to some SOBOs about the next few sections ahead. It’s funny seeing their reactions when I tell them I am a NOBO. First it’s shock, then huge smiles spread across their faces and excitement fills them. “OH! You are the first I’ve met so far!!!” It’s always a nice reaction to receive. They tell me I am coming up to the best parts of the trail. The most challenging, yet rewarding. All of them informing me that I am almost done. Hearing this makes me excited, yet sad at the same time. I don’t want it to be over! I feel I have only just started! I decided I am going to pace myself in the next few sections. Take all of the days slowly and enjoy them. The Waiau Pass is next! 116km in 5-8 days. I think I will lean towards 8 days for this trip. Rain is in the forecast, but I am hoping it clears, and I get some beautiful weather to enjoy the views!

Also, I ended beating the hunter to the carpark. A whole half hour ahead of him. A win for me and a great end to this section 🙂

I have to say, getting back on the trail alone was liberating. I felt free again. I set off from Te Anau to hitch back to the trail head on Mavora Lakes Road on a gloomy, cloudy morning. As the rain began to fall, I hesitated; thinking I should go back to the warm bed I had left that morning. That hesitation was strongly washed over by my desire to get back on the trail. A nice woman and her daughter picked me up within minutes and I was off!

40km along a gravel road to get to the campsite. I was about 10km into my walk when the rain really began to fall. A car pulled up alongside me. Two sweet little Malaysian women asked me if I would like a lift to the lake. Looking ahead at the storm I was about to walk into, I happily accepted. After a long conversation about what I was doing and how careful I promised I would be on my journey, we arrived at the campsite. We snapped some selfies and they loaded me up with two minute noodles and instant coffee. Once again, I found myself blessed by the kindness of strangers. We said our goodbyes and I began my hike for the day.

16km to get to Boundary Hut. The first part of my walk was spent avoiding massive mud puddles and getting splashed by boys on dirt bikes who thought it was funny to ride past me as fast as they could. The second part of my day was spent praying and giving thanks to God for the opportunity I’ve been given to go on this journey. There is so much time for your mind to wanter when you’re out in the middle of nowhere. My mind decided to reflect on my past and the mistakes I’ve made in my life; then came the tears. Something about crying, just letting all of the sadness and emotion flow out of your body, is so therapeutic. All part of the healing process I suppose.

The weather was once again playing games with me. Sunny for 5 minutes, then hailing, on and off. I made it to Boundary hut as it started to get really bad. Hallelujah! I had a quiet, cold night alone in the hut.

The next day I woke up with the sun. Made my usual oatmeal and chia seed breakfast, packed up, and left with my sights set on Greenstone Hut, 22km away. Swampy, wet, muddy, grassy terrain for most of the walk that day. I felt a change in myself this day. I found myself smiling during my tramp. Dare I say this is getting easier?! Could I actually be ENJOYING THIS?! I was! Such a special, wonderful, elating feeling! I made it to Greenstone Hut by late afternoon. There were heaps of people already there. Greenstone Hut sits on a very popular route that many people come for fishing or a weekend hiking trip. In the hut, I met people from all over: a girl from Wisconsin, on holiday after finishing studying abroad; two outdoor adventure seekers from Australia; four Israeli guys; and a couple from Seattle who quit their jobs to travel the world. I found everyone around me very attractive; I felt so out of place. This hut was luxurious in comparison to the ones I had been staying in. They had toilets that actually FLUSHED. Too bad I didn’t realize that until the next morning. Oops. I had a great night sleep, warm and cosy in a room with 6 other people in it.

The next day I was lucky enough to hitch a ride to Queenstown with the couple from Seattle in their campervan. I got dropped downtown and once again felt out of place. Tourists and someone trying to sell you something everywhere you turned. I had to wait until my couchsurfing host got off work at 11pm, so I wandered the streets, trying to avoid spending any money in this overpriced town. I did happen to find a coffee shop, Vudu Café, which had almond milk. Not only did they make the best almond milk latte I’ve ever had, they served it in a BOWL. If you go to Queenstown, go there for coffee. Hands down, best I’ve ever had.

I spent the next day resting. Enjoyed a gorgeous walk along the lake. I can see the draw people have to this city. It’s so picturesque. The water is crystal clear and the mountains in the backdrop are stunning. I was grinning from ear to ear all day. The DOC said the status of the trail from Queenstown to Wanaka is all good, so tomorrow I depart! They said to be mentally prepared because it will be the hardest part of the trail I’ve encountered thus far. With sunshine in the forecast for tomorrow, I am optimistic.