So I’d like to get a cutter at some point, but for now it’s out of my budget . But I was wondering what piece people are able to cut out using it? Also like to know if you can make adjustments to the cuts being made by it so that the floor tiles fit on a 3/16th and not a 1/4th foam core board? Does anyone have any pictures of what the piece look like after they’ve come out of the cutter? I’d like to see what they all look like. I can understand using the cutter to cut out the floor tiles and posts, but does anyone use their cutter to cut the template for the foam core board? Does the cutter have any problems cutting the label paper? Well this end up being a lot more questions than I thought.

I've been using my cutter a lot lately - I hope to never have to manually cut anchors and posts again!

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...what piece people are able to cut out using it?

The WWG folks make sure that the sets have GSD/STUDIO files for all the pieces. Tiles, anchors, posts, walls, props, trees... cut cut cut cut cut.

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...Also like to know if you can make adjustments to the cuts being made by it so that the floor tiles fit on a 3/16th and not a 1/4th foam core board?

First off, you can cut the tiles AS-IS, and they fit a 3/16th inch thick tile just fine. It works. This topic has been discussed to death in other threads, so if you haven't had the thrill to see both sides of the discussion, take a look in the TLX discussion area. The technical answer to your question is yes - you can tweak the cutter files yourself, and if you're really really set on adjusting the tiles, you can kitbash the tile images too. But my opinion lies firmly on the side of "don't change a thing - the stuff works perfectly on 3/16th foam core."

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Does anyone have any pictures of what the piece look like after they’ve come out of the cutter?

Literally it'll look like lots of hand cut pieces. The real difference between hand cutting and robo cutting is scoring. The robocutter doesn't score - it perforates. At first I thought this would lead to less clean edges, but it's really nice and easy to work with. The process is this - you print out the page, and you mount it to a carrier sheet. There are instructions around here for creating your own carrier sheets - you'll want to. It's cheap and nicer to use than the sheet that comes with the device. The carrier sheet needs to be sticky enough for the cut pieces to not just pop off the page while the device is cutting, but not so sticky that the pieces don't come off the carrier sheet relatively easily. You get the hang of it pretty quickly.

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but does anyone use their cutter to cut the template for the foam core board?

I don't bother. It'd take longer to mount the pages to a carrier sheet and cut than it would to free-hand cut the sticker paper I use. I'm going to start using plain paper and spray glue for the mount templates, and I won't bother using the cutter for that either.

You're able to cut anything from the TLX lines, propmaster lines and swiftsenics line. Pretty much anything in the Vault doesn't have GSD/Studio files for them.

Making adjustments to 3/16th would be relatively simple, you'd just move the score line slightly to make it work. That being said, as mproteau has pointed out, the slight angling of the bottoms is a non-issue, and likely not worth the hassle. (Not that I can claim to have tried)

Here is a picture of which I had a bunch of stuff cut sitting beside (and on) my laptop for a project I was doing. You can see how they come out.

The nice thing is since the perforated edges for fold lines are so perfect, you can see all that glue then cutout parts on the walls and posts are skipped giving you near perfect results everytime. For me this makes the investment worthwhile since when I was first starting cardstock modelling my stuff turned out terrible due to my inability to cut/score straight lines even with a ruler

Cutting the templates out for the foamcore is not even worth the effort, I use a slide cutter and cut around the outside edges then spray adhesive mine to the board. I use regular paper for my templates, not cardstock.

but does anyone use their cutter to cut the template for the foam core board?

I don't bother. It'd take longer to mount the pages to a carrier sheet and cut than it would to free-hand cut the sticker paper I use. I'm going to start using plain paper and spray glue for the mount templates, and I won't bother using the cutter for that either.

If it doens't work out to be more expensive try the Sticker paper, I use that for the template mounts (when I use template mounts) and I like it better than spraying etc, the sticker paper can peal off a bit easier than the spray and it helps for positioning.

I was a little worried that after I got one I'd still be cutting out the slots for the posts and the side parts for the walls.

Be sure to send in a picture when you peel apart your first page of posts or anchors. It's awesome. All those little bits will be cut out for you.

Don't expect the cutter to be quiet about it though... It's a noisy little beast.

You can adjust the speed settings for the cuts. My blade is probably getting a little dull - I've taken to doing double-cuts (there's a setting for this in the silhouette software) on particularly intricate stuff (not the TLX stuff - some personal project) to make sure the pieces are really cleanly cut out. Sometimes you'll find a cut isn't totally complete, or that a corner is stuck on and needs a little encouragement to come off, but it's sooooo much faster than cutting the whole thing by hand.

It's nice to see that it does most of, if not all the cutting for you. About how long did it take to cut all that?

I was a little worried that after I got one I'd still be cutting out the slots for the posts and the side parts for the walls.

That little labor of love was about 1/4 of all of the cutting that I did, it took about 30 hours to cut it all out. (like I said that was only about 1/4)

The cutter is noisy like mproteau says, but man you can't even glue fast enough to keep up with the cutter once you get your groove going.

I was cutting out stuff just last night for our dwarf dungeon stuff, I cut 12 8-way posts(3 sheets), 12 5-way posts (2 sheets) and about 60 3-way posts (5 sheets) (the diagonal ones) as well as 2 of each of the double high posts (3 sheets total), and about 24 6" wall sections (12 sheets). While the cutter was happily cutting I was able to glue the walls together and edge about half of them, and do the 1st stage gluing on all the 3-way posts (no edging yet tho ) Then at the end edge and glue all the double high posts just to revel in their awesomeness. All in all it was about 2-3 hrs work (wasn't really clocking my time but it was from about 7pmish to about 10:30ish taking breaks), if that gives you an indication on time.

If you let it, you can really get buried in too much cardstock to edge with any sanity

I started getting buried with stuff too What I have been doing now, which works very well with my build time, is to cut the first piece, put the next one on to cut, and edge the first piece whilst the second is cutting...and continue like that. Once the last piece is cut,,,I only have that one to edge...and a nice stack of stuff just needing glue. I dont start a new cut until the previous is edged.....This works better for the larger parts...mounts and props I just sit and edge them when I have time

lol you have more discipline than I, I cut, as the next is cutting I remove the other from my carrier sheet and prepare the next for cut, then edge/glue until time for the next to go in rinse/repeat. I barely get 1/4 of stuff from previous sheet glued/edged before the next sheet goes in, by 10 sheets, I'm buried in work

Works for me to have a pile of extra stuff to work through though, at gaming sessions since I'm a player and not a GM, I edge/glue while playing...

I was a little worried that after I got one I'd still be cutting out the slots for the posts and the side parts for the walls.

Be sure to send in a picture when you peel apart your first page of posts or anchors. It's awesome. All those little bits will be cut out for you.

Don't expect the cutter to be quiet about it though... It's a noisy little beast.

You can adjust the speed settings for the cuts. My blade is probably getting a little dull - I've taken to doing double-cuts (there's a setting for this in the silhouette software) on particularly intricate stuff (not the TLX stuff - some personal project) to make sure the pieces are really cleanly cut out. Sometimes you'll find a cut isn't totally complete, or that a corner is stuck on and needs a little encouragement to come off, but it's sooooo much faster than cutting the whole thing by hand.

Where is the setting for double cutting? I have either a dull blade or one that does not like cutting and am having to do double passes on 110 cardstock.

Where is the setting for double cutting? I have either a dull blade or one that does not like cutting and am having to do double passes on 110 cardstock.

I have the SD and got the new cutter that you dial as my old cutter did seemed dull.Setting recommended 3 on 110 card stock. and did not punch out neatly. I put the setting to 4 and all cuts out nicely.With the "dull blades, I found "Glue" on my old blade, after cleaning found it worked correctly again. I cleaned the glue with Orange power goo dissolver. Now I have two blades but perfer the dial cutter to the colour head cutter.

Ehisey the area for 'Double cutting' is on the setting page for the "paper type" in silhouette studio program. I do not recommend the double cut as it can make the score line very easy to tear, try increasing the cut depth first.

BogDog, recommend a cutter ASAP make the card stock hobby easier, my wife and four kids have found great usages for the cutter with their projects and scrap book hobbies.

Where is the setting for double cutting? I have either a dull blade or one that does not like cutting and am having to do double passes on 110 cardstock.

I have the SD and got the new cutter that you dial as my old cutter did seemed dull.Setting recommended 3 on 110 card stock. and did not punch out neatly. I put the setting to 4 and all cuts out nicely.With the "dull blades, I found "Glue" on my old blade, after cleaning found it worked correctly again. I cleaned the glue with Orange power goo dissolver. Now I have two blades but perfer the dial cutter to the colour head cutter.

Ehisey the area for 'Double cutting' is on the setting page for the "paper type" in silhouette studio program. I do not recommend the double cut as it can make the score line very easy to tear, try increasing the cut depth first.

BogDog, recommend a cutter ASAP make the card stock hobby easier, my wife and four kids have found great usages for the cutter with their projects and scrap book hobbies.

I had notice the tearing problem. I'll check for "glue", and see about the new blade. I only had 2 more points left on the thickness. Probably need to upgrade software, then as I don't seem to have it.

I've been double-cutting for a while, being too lazy to order another blade. I can't think of any problems I've had with the scores being too weak, but it's certainly a concern I've been living with. I've been thinking about trying to do single-cut scorelines, then double-cut cut lines... Maybe that will be tedious enough to convince me to order another blade!

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