Toilet needs to be screwed into concrete floor

The floor of my toilet is concrete so the previous owners somehow managed to install a toilet without screwing it down to the floor but it did not move, so I can only assume that he used something like no more nails or super glue (Lol). He had tiled the toilet floor completely then placed the toilet pan on top of the tiled floor!

The toilet bowl has moved now so really it needs to be screwed down properly. Is it possible to do this without dismantling the toilet bowl or will the whole toilet needs to be dismantled to allow the drilling of the screw holes and then the screws to be applied?

You will need to remove the pan to drill the holes for the anchor bolts. A lot of people will cement the pan to the floor which usually creates a permanent fix but would also usually mean you wouldnt be able to remove it without damaging it.

23rd May 2017

Mine is stuck down with concrete .

23rd May 2017

Stick it down with Gripfill

Original Poster

23rd May 2017

N42

Stick it down with Gripfill

is that strong enough to hold the toilet pan with people moving around on it?

23rd May 2017

The best solution is to remove and fix properly, but this can lead to problems with rusted screws etc. It may be worth a try with this(comes in various colours). But will bond even with wet surfaces. screwfix.com/p/e…72p

These are great. Used them in my house on wooden and concrete floor … These are great. Used them in my house on wooden and concrete floor http://www.screwfix.com/p/euroflo-wc-pan-bidet-floor-fixing-kit/7565R?kpid=7565R&gclid=CjwKEAjwu4_JBRDpgs2RwsCbt1MSJABOY8anv4BIbLAqmyWCS0l-FNt5vh4-aTMsuM5gIeA_Aa709xoCiHzw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMX0z5ryhtQCFUWnUQodo6QCuQ

the difficulty is that the floor is solid concrete so not easily drilled, which is why the previous owner did a botched job.

23rd May 2017

I'd use a good quality silicon rather than gripfill.

Assumes that the concrete is decent condition - ie not dusty

23rd May 2017

could you not drill into concrete with a decent drill bit? I've drilled into floors before using pretty standard masonry bits

23rd May 2017

mas99

I'd use a good quality silicon rather than gripfill.Assumes that the … I'd use a good quality silicon rather than gripfill.Assumes that the concrete is decent condition - ie not dusty

Agree with this, we have granite tiles and didn't want to buy an expensive drill bit to drill though, plenty of silicone and toilet hasn't moved in 4 years.

Original Poster

23rd May 2017

mas99

I'd use a good quality silicon rather than gripfill.Assumes that the … I'd use a good quality silicon rather than gripfill.Assumes that the concrete is decent condition - ie not dusty

it sits on tiles, which have been tiled over a concrete floor.

24th May 2017

If toilet has moved perhaps the tiles are loose as well? Silicon on base of toilet and placed onto the tiles then silicon the edges. This is what a lot of plumbers do - and even if screwing down, still use silicon as sometimes you still get some lateral movement and this can crack your toilet

24th May 2017

Assuming the tiles are solid then you can stick it down with silicon. You can screw into tiled/concrete floor but do not use hammer action on your drill until you get to the concrete as otherwise you will most likely crack the tile.

24th May 2017

We got our bathrooms done last year and have concrete floors and the entire floor has tiles.

The toilet is held in place by silicon along the bottom. The builder had concerns about drilling down so he applied a thick layer of silicon on bottom and it seems to be just fine.

24th May 2017

I use 2 pack resin filler. The stuff they use for wood and car body filling. I drill holes in floor first. Masking tape around so filler dont spread out beyond pan. Just use filler around edges where it meets the floor. Set pan on filler Nice and level with some packing if needed. When set... 15mins... I screw down tight. Seems to work. Not effected by big folk or water. Thin bead of silicone around pan after. You can get a toilet pan fixing kit which includes plugs and caps for a proper tidy job

24th May 2017

You can drill through a pan fine. Just use a masonry bit without the hammer (a glass bit will go through your tile easier).

Once done start the plug in your stainless steel screw with washer (I like to use a float valve seating), push it through your pan hole into the drilled hole. Give it a few taps to push the plug all the way into the hole then screw down.

24th May 2017

^^^^^^^ This. Absolutely no need to remove the pan.

Original Poster

24th May 2017

themorgatron

You can drill through a pan fine. Just use a masonry bit without the … You can drill through a pan fine. Just use a masonry bit without the hammer (a glass bit will go through your tile easier). Once done start the plug in your stainless steel screw with washer (I like to use a float valve seating), push it through your pan hole into the drilled hole. Give it a few taps to push the plug all the way into the hole then screw down.

this is what i am wondering, if the screw holes in the pan is big enough already for the drill bit to go through. guess you will need steady hands as the drill bit hitting the pan through the screw hole will damage the pan.

Original Poster

24th May 2017

ceanth

We got our bathrooms done last year and have concrete floors and the … We got our bathrooms done last year and have concrete floors and the entire floor has tiles. The toilet is held in place by silicon along the bottom. The builder had concerns about drilling down so he applied a thick layer of silicon on bottom and it seems to be just fine.

is silicone that strong? guess it must be. i can certainly try this as this sounds easy enough to do. what sort of silicone will be appropriate?

24th May 2017

mutley1

is that strong enough to hold the toilet pan with people moving around on … is that strong enough to hold the toilet pan with people moving around on it?

what exactly do you guys do on the toilet?

Original Poster

24th May 2017

dataload

what exactly do you guys do on the toilet?

lol. i don't live in it. other people live in it X)

24th May 2017

mutley1

is silicone that strong? guess it must be. i can certainly try this as … is silicone that strong? guess it must be. i can certainly try this as this sounds easy enough to do. what sort of silicone will be appropriate?

any would work, we used what was left of the one we were using for the bathroom, gently lift the pan a little and fill as much as you can around the bottom around the inside and the bottom edge. then silicone around the outside keeping it neat, for extra strength I then pushed it through both screw holes as well.

Original Poster

24th May 2017

eslick

any would work, we used what was left of the one we were using for the … any would work, we used what was left of the one we were using for the bathroom, gently lift the pan a little and fill as much as you can around the bottom around the inside and the bottom edge. then silicone around the outside keeping it neat, for extra strength I then pushed it through both screw holes as well.

thank you. i think you are right as i remember that removing silicone is a nightmare so once dry they would be strong enough. i have lots of bathroom silicone for the bath tub, guess that will do?

24th May 2017

mutley1

is silicone that strong? guess it must be. i can certainly try this as … is silicone that strong? guess it must be. i can certainly try this as this sounds easy enough to do. what sort of silicone will be appropriate?

We used the B&Q anti mould own brand stuff. The solicone is applied at the bottom of the toilet where it is in contact with the tiles. The setup which we have is that the until it a box where the toilet comes out, similar to this one:

We have applied silcone to the bottom as I mentioned, also at all point of contact with the unit. We have this setup with both of our bathrooms and I think it also be enough with you. Regarding the screw holes, we glued on the caps (with remaining solicone) so that you don't end up with two blank holes where dirt can fill into.

I can take some pictures for you tonight if you want. Let me know

24th May 2017

mutley1

thank you. i think you are right as i remember that removing silicone is … thank you. i think you are right as i remember that removing silicone is a nightmare so once dry they would be strong enough. i have lots of bathroom silicone for the bath tub, guess that will do?

yeah just use it and make sure you use plenty and it wont move, saying that ours has been done for 4 years and I bet it starts moving today

We used the B&Q anti mould own brand stuff. The solicone is applied at … We used the B&Q anti mould own brand stuff. The solicone is applied at the bottom of the toilet where it is in contact with the tiles. The setup which we have is that the until it a box where the toilet comes out, similar to this one:https://www.bathstore.com/products/match-compact-2-piece-furniture-set-2472.htmlWe have applied silcone to the bottom as I mentioned, also at all point of contact with the unit. We have this setup with both of our bathrooms and I think it also be enough with you. Regarding the screw holes, we glued on the caps (with remaining solicone) so that you don't end up with two blank holes where dirt can fill into.I can take some pictures for you tonight if you want. Let me know

thank you. no need for the photos. i will use silicone as i think that will work now that people have mentioned it. i may try to get the brown colour silicone as that won't get dirty, it being on the floor?

Banned

24th May 2017

i had one fitted 2 weeks ago and he didn't fit it to the floor !

how did yours move? too much action lol

24th May 2017

+1 for silicone. Did mine 10 years ago and hasn't moved at all.

Original Poster

24th May 2017

iwashere2000

i had one fitted 2 weeks ago and he didn't fit it to the floor !how did … i had one fitted 2 weeks ago and he didn't fit it to the floor !how did yours move? too much action lol

i don't think it takes much to move a toilet pan if it is not fixed to the floor. if you are a big bloke and you sat on it and wriggled about, it would move alright. lol.

i have no idea how it managed to move but i can see how it could do.

Banned

24th May 2017

mutley1

i don't think it takes much to move a toilet pan if it is not fixed to … i don't think it takes much to move a toilet pan if it is not fixed to the floor. if you are a big bloke and you sat on it and wriggled about, it would move alright. lol.i have no idea how it managed to move but i can see how it could do.

​ah, your a big bloke then lol do you tilt too much hahah

24th May 2017

mutley1

\x09\x09\x09\x09\x09\x09The floor of my toilet is concrete so the … \x09\x09\x09\x09\x09\x09The floor of my toilet is concrete so the previous owners somehow managed to install a toilet without screwing it down to the floor but it did not move, so I can only assume that he used something like no more nails or super glue (Lol). He had tiled the toilet floor completely then placed the toilet pan on top of the tiled floor!The toilet bowl has moved now so really it needs to be screwed down properly. Is it possible to do this without dismantling the toilet bowl or will the whole toilet needs to be dismantled to allow the drilling of the screw holes and then the screws to be applied?\x09\x09\x09\x09\x09

That, for me, is the correct way, far easier should you wish to replace the toilet at some point in the future.

But in reply to you your question, either carefully drill a hole through the fixing holes on the toilet through the tiles, if theres a wooden floor below, ensure you don't go too deep, and screw the toilet to the floor (stainless steel screws ideally) ensure you use washers and don't overly tighten.

Or you could gently ease the toilet off the floor, help required, easily done with a couple of screwdrivers or chisels*, and apply an adhesive similar to No More Nails,

Or you could do both the above..

If you don't use an adhesive ensure you seal around the base with a sealant.

* nearest example I could find ;

use same technique on each side of the toilet, how high of course depends on how much 'play' there is, insert a small piece of wood, to keep raised enough to apply the adhesive.

Edited by: "andynicol" 24th May 2017

Original Poster

24th May 2017

iwashere2000

ah, your a big bloke then lol do you tilt too much hahah

No. I am a slim woman but I can wriggle about. Lol X)

24th May 2017

Silicon will sort it, masking tape around 8mm from base of bowl and 8mm up base and apply smoothing with a wet finger, remove tape immediately!! Leave for 24 hours if possible before distrurbing.

25th May 2017

StanTheIronMan

Silicon will sort it, masking tape around 8mm from base of bowl and 8mm … Silicon will sort it, masking tape around 8mm from base of bowl and 8mm up base and apply smoothing with a wet finger, remove tape immediately!! Leave for 24 hours if possible before distrurbing.

Or just use a Fugi tool, no need for tape then and a perfect finish every time when using silicone,

I misplaced the screw on mine so the plumber just used silicone to keep it in place - not had any trouble.

Original Poster

25th May 2017

StanTheIronMan

Silicon will sort it, masking tape around 8mm from base of bowl and 8mm … Silicon will sort it, masking tape around 8mm from base of bowl and 8mm up base and apply smoothing with a wet finger, remove tape immediately!! Leave for 24 hours if possible before distrurbing.

24 hours is a long time for someone not to go to the toilet as it is the only toilet in the house. but i know what you mean. would quick dry silicone still need 24 hours?