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H-10 Mig Gun Repair?

05-26-2006, 07:42 AM

Hello All, have not been here in years I appear to have an open wire or bad micro-switch on my MIG gun for my Hobart 175. At first I thought I might have just overheated machine but shorting the contacts at plug inside cabinet pulls in relay. At 153 bucks from Cyberweld for new 10' gun I think I will try and find the break in the wire. Has anyone had this problem? Tried to disassemble gun to get to switch? From initial attempt to find break,(way to late last night) it might be close to unit where cable always droops the most.

Thanks in advance and keep our soldiers in mind as your grilling this weekend!

Comment

I had a bad trigger wire connection on an M10 gun with a MM175. But it was where I could access the wire from removing the trigger. A wire broken in the middle of a run would be weird. Short of almost ruining the cable assembly, I don't know how you'd access yours.

Comment

I'd probably just get some new wires and wrap them AROUND the cable and just use them instead of the faulty wires inside. Cut some holes in the gun handle to connect them to the trigger, and then splice them into the connector at the machine.

Pressed brass pin out of Red Switch body and found one side on "forked" contact was flatted out a little preventing good contact. A little tweaking and polishing with pencil eraser and trigger feels new and snappy, didn't realize how mushy it had gotten.

Does Miller not sell just the Trigger? The bore for the pivot pit is starting to elongate and will need replacing in another year

Pressed brass pin out of Red Switch body and found one side on "forked" contact was flatted out a little preventing good contact. A little tweaking and polishing with pencil eraser and trigger feels new and snappy, didn't realize how mushy it had gotten.

Does Miller not sell just the Trigger? The bore for the pivot pit is starting to elongate and will need replacing in another year

Relax! Have A Homebrew!

Tha Beerman!

Yeah, you can buy a new trigger switch. The part # should be in your OM for the unit.