Saying Goodbye to Pinot Noir—for a While

By

Lettie Teague

August 20, 2011

Americans don't like to give up. The idea is practically a national affront. Our heroes are men like Vince Lombardi, who counseled perseverance at any cost. ("Once you quit, it becomes a habit," said The Coach.) And yet surrender can bring surprising rewards.

Recently I gave up Pinot Noir.

I had found myself reaching for Pinot a little too readily and a little too often. A wine to match disparate dishes? Pinot...