Roundup: New York Fashion Week

It’s that time of year again and we’re all dying to stay up-to-date with our favourite fashion shows around the world. Just in case you missed the recent news and highlights from New York Fashion Week, we’ve done all the hard work and collected them for you.

First, here’s some trivia for your next dinner party conversation. Did you know that founded in 1943, New York Fashion Week was the very first incarnation, but it took 50 years for it to be taken seriously? It was, in fact, the iconic tents at Bryant Park in 1993 that drew massive media attention to the event, placing New York Fashion Week permanently on the media’s radar.

But (and not for the first time) NYFW’s leading position could be at risk, as many of its most talented designers (Thom Browne, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and Joseph Altuzarra) are abandoning its runways to show in Paris instead. Victoria Beckham is also moving, showing in London for her 10th anniversary show in September. What’s more, the eight-day extravaganza is expected to last only four next season and it is already rumoured overseas buyers and journalists will find it increasingly tricky to attend the event.

The News

It was an eventful season to say the least, with all these changes happening just around the NYFW schedule. Alexander Wang (who dedicated his latest collection to the women he works with) is also leaving New York Fashion Week; not to show elsewhere, but to join the growing number of designers who present their collections in June and December, to align with the pre-collection dates.

Carolina Herrera is stepping down from her post at the grand age of 79 and taking over a new job in her company as a global brand ambassador; leaving the creative helm of her business to Wes Gordon – the Central Saint Martins graduate has been acting as a creative consultant for the past 11 months.

Cushnie Et Ochs are splitting after 10 years of being in the business together. Co-founder Michelle Ochs and CEO Peter Arnold announced they’re leaving the business after NYFW. The label was established in 2008, straight after the duo graduated from Parsons, and was the finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2011 and a nominee for the CFDA Swarovski Award in 2012.

Jason Wu exits Hugo Boss, where he had been Womenswear Creative Director for nearly five years. His AW18 show for the label was the last one under his belt as Womenswear Creative Director, as Hugo Boss’ Chief Brand Officer said they would like to address a younger audience.

The Highlights

New York Fashion Week might be better known for its commerciality rather than creative force; however, the American contemporary designers (such as Phillip Lim, Tibi or The Row) always prove the two don’t have to be mutually exclusive. This season, they surprised us with wearable, yet innovative designs, such as the covetable quilted skirts, floaty ruffled dresses, oversized silhouettes, and mood-lifting colour combinations. Raf Simon’s popcorn and celebrity filled show for Calvin Klein also made headlines as more of a runway/art installation – pulling references from firefighters, farmers and astronauts.

Prabal Gurung, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Derek Lam, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Tibi, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

3.1 Phillip Lim, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

The Row, AW18 (VOGUE)

Calvin Klein, AW18 (VOGUE)

Tibi, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Tibi, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

3.1 Phillip Lim, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

3.1 Phillip Lim, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Calvin Klein, AW18 (VOGUE)

The Trends

Apart from the above-mentioned highlights, this particular season was a little, well… dull. Sadly, the trends at NYFW didn’t offer anything we haven’t already seen on the catwalks over the last couple of seasons, but there were references to current events, such as the Time’s Up movement, which made the shows feel modern and relevant.

Risky Business

Hellessy, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Alexander Wang, AW18 (VOGUE)

Alexander Wang, AW18 (VOGUE)

Milly, AW18 (Greg Kessler/Kesslerstudio)

Dion Lee, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Dion Lee, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Zadig & Voltaire, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Tom Ford, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Animal Prints

Zadig & Voltaire, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Victoria Beckham, AW18 (Getty)

Tom Ford, AW18, (INDIGITAL)

Tom Ford, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Diane von Furstenberg, AW18 (VOGUE)

Carolina Herrera, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Oversized

Zadig & Voltaire, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Zadig & Voltaire, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Victoria Beckham, AW18 (Getty)

Marc Jacobs, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Marc Jacobs, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

The Row, AW18 (VOGUE)

High Shine

Milly, AW18 (Greg Kessler/Kesslerstudio)

Calvin Klein, AW18 (VOGUE)

Cushnie et Ochs, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Cushnie et Ochs, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Christian Siriano, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Christian Siriano, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Sies Marjan, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Splicing

Marc Jacobs, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Carolina Herrera, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Tibi, AW18 (INDIGITAL)

On the Radar

There are three new labels we spotted as ones-to-watch:

The Copenhagen-based street style favourite Saks Potts, founded by Barbara Potts and Catherine Sacks, has been drawing attention with its fun, colourful outerwear worn by influencers such as Leandra Medine, Eva Chen or Emily Weiss.

Saks Potts, AW18 (VOGUE)

John Elliott expanded his coveted menswear line into womenswear as his debut at NYFW. The LA-based streetwear label has a strong offering of denim, knits, outerwear and eveningwear, and has an ongoing collaboration with Nike.

John Elliott AW18 (INDIGITAL)

Nanushka, a Budapest-based brand with a minimalist aesthetic, has been around since 2005, but has only just recently been making waves internationally, due to its growing influencer fan-base. The pieces, which are functional and tap into trends in a subtle way, have already caught the attention of international retailers from Japan to the UK.

Nanushka, AW18 (VOGUE)

It’s safe to say, we’ve still got a lot to look forward to and be inspired by this year. Watch this space…

Designer, creative director and consultant. With over a decade of experience in the fashion industry, she wants to share her love for fashion, contemporary art, and thoughtful discussion on fashion and retail industries.