Diane von Furstenberg

It's pure coincidence that the Rolling Stones are in town, but Diane von Furstenberg's pre-fall collection has what she calls a "Mick in his Marianne era" vibe. "I've always said I wanted to live a man's life in a woman's body," she continued. "This is all about London, the idea of a dandy." Masculine and feminine met in a tweed print dress inset with black lace, and the he-for-she thing continued on a plaid coat with shots of chartreuse as well as in the collection's graphic prints, which were all borrowed from men's ties. Biba got a name check when von Furstenberg was showing off a printed V-neck dress with parallel stripes of silver sequins down its front; another little frock with openwork detailing at the neckline was similarly bohemian in spirit. A woman can't wear the pants all the time.

Coats with color-blocked torsos and sleeves didn't so much harken back to Swinging London as they spoke to current trends. It didn't matter; they were one of the collection's major strengths.