maybe just maybe........ Incedentaly, I'll be helping out a friend who happens to be a machinist this week..... Stay tuned more to come!

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Machinist said that the column spline isnt a great thing to mess with. Im still hopefull, theres roughly a 10 year gap between the wheel and this column, so maybe a later 60s wheel will work. For now however the benze is here to stay On the upside he did have a part recomendation for one of the mods I wanted down the road I took apart the signal switch this morning and (in gunsmith speak: its dirtier than a gummy ole' Winchester 06 in there(almost impossible to be that bad)) I think the problem is a film of gritty dielectric grease thats been baked on over the last few decades. I mapped the contacts and labled their coresponding wires and started playing with it, now that I have a better underatanding of how it works I think once Its cleaned up it will be ok. I also just got the new HL switch in the mail, it occurs to me that the one I have may be ok but I will try both. First impressions are good, switch feels real nice to operate, however its made in Taiwan so I'm sceptical. See pic

Attached Images

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Yea, they will be a close enough thirds... Didnt the loadstars keep the basic shell of this cab into the 70s? And also that four spoke wheel? Maybe just maybe, by that time they changed spline? I happen to know where a loadstar cab is with its column, wheel, and doors less than five minutes from my house. All I would have to do is pull the wheel and see if my adapter for the benze fits on the spline. Owner would likely give me a deal on the cab just to get it out of his yard lol probably would give me the wheel. I would need to see what year it is.

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Grrrrrr forgot about that bigger diameter. I have a feeling that would interfere with entry/exit, and I'm skinny. I did some research and it sounds like the splines on all the 4 spoke wheels matches, maybe I can try the one out of my parts truck. Not my favorite but may work. I almost like the one thats in it now better than the original two spoke. Oh well beggers can't be choosers I guess. I don't have money to hire SpaceX to machine me a new column shaft.

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Well, I cant confirm for sure but this column apears to have a lot of similarities to a Scout ii, so if you've ever wondered what was in your signal switch, here it is. Last is of my "adaptation" to my conector. It more or less all works now. Switch is a bit finicky, I have to push on the leaver back the other way a bit to keep both stop lights from disconecting at once. And I haven't had the guts to try the hazard button yet either. Whats funny is that I now know by heart where every terminal in that conector goes.

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D-line and SII columns are similar in more ways than they are different and share many, but not all the same parts. Same wheels, same horn guts, sometimes even the same turn signal guts depending on exact model year. They're actually Saginaw columns, commonly found in GM vehicles of similar vintage. Do you remember what shape the molded plug was coming out of the column, or had that already been cut prior to your purchase?

That plug was gone and most of the battle of trying to figure out how it hooks up. Is that also true of this era truck? About the gm columns?

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If you've ever fixed something electrical on your IH and didn't test it till later, only to find you hooked it up backwards and had to take three or more things apart to fix it, go ahead and subscribe to this thread

Right, the beast is back now with 99.9999(thats four 9s!)% working electrics! On to other things(thank God). I've managed to jimmy the signal switch fully working, what was happening was the contacts moved too far when signalling right and disconected both bright filament lines from the stop circuit instead of just the right. I put a ziptie around part of the switch to act as a shim and it corrected the problem. Unfortunately I'm a moron and didn't think to take a picture untill after I wrastled the steering wheel back on. Next note, I put in five gallons of gas from a can and the fuel gauge didn't move, however swapping in the gauge from the truck I stripped at the salvage yard showed just above empty. Am I correct in thinking something else may be wrong with this circuit(would think it would read atleast 1/4)? I have a home made continuity tester that I conected to the gauge and got the needle to come up on the gauge I removed so I'm unsure what may be happening. I'm celebrating the electric's completion (ironically with the 100th reply) via photo op. Really just a reality check on all the stuff I still need to do. Pics are of a couple areas I opened up/inspected for the first time out of curiosity, some of the non original components, some of things that I tried not to breath on for fear of breakage/turning to dust or lung disease, a couple of things I have no clue what to make of, and a small detail in the mounts of my winch bumper.
On another topic I want to become more familiar with the anatomy of the SV series engines, does anybody have cutaway pictures, or diagrams/exploded veiws? Am I right in my understanding that the cam drive in these engines is gear driven?(ie no "timing chain"?) I looked for play earlier today in the timing by rotating the engine slightly and watching for movement in the distributor rotor and found NO observable play whatsoever. Being that the previous owner said this engine had high hours thats great. I'm not familiar with this particular carb either, does the JB weld pictured apear to be over anything important? I kind of ignore that because inches away is the rustiest clutch slave cylinder I've ever seen. I will either be replacing this or ignoring it and hoping it goes away. My next set of fixes will be to run some rislone in the oil before changing to try and get the lifters of the two cylinders in the middle of the passenger bank to quiet down(also can somebody tell me how to reference cylinder # thanks in advance), VC gaskets, pan gasket, new filter and new oil. I may do a tuneup depending on if somebody out there with more experience thinks this distributor looks like it may need it inside (looks very clean/good to me)or maybe how to tell if it needs one? Also another question, is it worth buying a full engine gasket set rather than just the pan and VC gaskets? I may well go through the whole engine eventually.
A small detail I thought was quite cool was the IH logo on the bolts that mount the winch bumper to the frame(tells me it has been on there for a long @$$ time and also makes me want to rebuild the old winch). I noticed grooves worn into the front of the bumper where the winch spool looks like it may have cut into it. I hadn't tried to reinstall one of the winches I have for it, is there some kind if shim that needs to be infront and behind the winch? Hard rubber or just steel plate?
On the note of "tells me its been in there a long @$$ time" factory original parts, I removed.... Ehhemm, exhumed the mumified remains of my dash speaker (viewer discretion advised on those pics). Also I'm trying to determine the purpose of the plate steel inlay in the passenger side of the bed, its screws/nuts have been painted over so it hasnt been off for a long time... Any thoughts? Its on there so tight that I couldn't remove any screws when I tried last. (And yes I took the one picture with my head upside down)
Between big jobs I will tackle a bunch of smaller jobs like loostening up frozen cables and what not. Then just update in the next big post with a list to keep my thoughts collected.
Of all the real noticeable problems with this truck almost half were electrical, so its come a long way.
Credit to the forum for the library of info I used while wrenching, and special thanks to Scoutboy74 for his knowledge contributions. So enjoy an imaginary cold one and medium rare steak for now, this thing is off to a great start on its journey back to relatively good condition

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Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
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Your steering column is from a D-line and not a SII. Pics confirm. Probably the same organ donor that supplied the axles.
Potential problems with fuel gauge readout can include: the gauge, the in-tank sender and the wiring in between the two.
That's exactly how rotten I expected your speaker to look!
Best source of information, diagrams, cutaways, pics etc. is in the factory service manual.
Correct, there is no timing chain on these engines.
Your carb is a Holley model 2300...OEM design...possibly even original to the engine. They're good carbs, when they're in good shape. Yours isn't. That JB weld looks like pure turkey shit slathered on there. Not a SAE endorsed repair method! I'm guessing the throttle body is probably cracked and that dooky pile was a feeble attempt to patch it up.
From the driver seat, the right hand bank has the even numbered cylinders and the odds on the left. Small numbers at the front, bigs at the back. The numbers for each are cast into the intake manifold as is the timing order.
Tuneups are easy and not ultra expensive. Almost a no-brainer when you don't know how long the consumable pieces have been in service, just so you know that item on the slate can be cleared. You're making good progress and learning crap tons about the old beast in the bargain. Heck, I've even learned a thing or three myself on this deal.

Thank you..... Again.... Manny times.... D line column, 3/4 ton 1210 ish running gear..... I'd almost be willing to bet money the seat and welded in door latch are from the same vehicle. In that case I won't blow up/burn/hazmat/burry/dump in lake the old seat... Although I may have to pay somebody to take it from me lol. Yea its taught me alot, real interesting truck, to be honest I'm glad I found it this way, Its so far cured me of my fear of wires. In regards to the fuel gauge, the sender is new, so thats out, and I have one more gauge I can try. Maybe I could have one rebuilt? Will look into the wiring once I clean out all the laying around butchered wire and loose parts out of there so I can pull the seat. I can't work on something without making a huge mess... Just isnt possible not to... Factory service manual... Last I saw it was expensive? Is there a ebook free? I probably sound cheap but its either the engine gasket kit or a manual if you know what I mean. At least I remember it being that much. So its #4 and #6 cylinders that have the tick... Any way to patch a carb crack correctly or is this unit just throw away at this point? Parts truck has a 266 in it no idea what carb, its sat with no air filter or valve covers since I was 8 years old driving by to go pheasant hunting and who knows how long before that. Little did I know I would some day own it lol. Tune up kit on the list might as well learn how.... Any idea if I could have that old speaker rebuilt? I kinda want to use as much of the original truck as I can, it was clear the last wrench that touched those nuts was at the factory. Had that "white cap white" on there, looked brand new from underneath. I have my hopes and dreams and heart set on a Reto Sound Laguna raddio but thats waaaaaay down the road. I had a conversation with my machinist friend, (hes had more cars than he can remember, ran a lathe at 6 years old, machinist and welder his whole life(yea that guy)) basically whatever he tells me about mechanics I believe him. Acording to him one of the reasons for lead in gas was a cusion for the valve seats so I did a bit of research to find that oddly enough, they used hardened valve seats, so the lack of gun food doesnt hurt things. Between that and the fact that theres no timing chain I'm now really starting to like theses engines.

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Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
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As a matter O' fact, I've learned enough to maybe make heads and tails of the wire in my Fiat 850.... if only there was another section in this forum for non IH vehicles (You'll notice in my signature it says "because why not") in the end that car was free and I overpayed.

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Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
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Alright, found something interesting, I grabbed a couple pics from this other thread on IH America's 1 ton travelall, hopefully I wont upset anybody by putting them here for reference. I was reading through and noticed something that caught my eye. It had to do with the rig's original dana 44 front end, having the original factory tierod skid plate and I noticed a certain mystery part in the background and recognised it as the unknown dangly thing on MY front axle. Can anybody can tell me more about this, possibly this is the same axle missing the skid plate, and where I might find one/pictures of one out of a vehicle? Seems since I will be doing the horizontal stabilizer I'm going to need to become familiar with this axle setup anyways, might as well complete the upgrade. See first pic for the unknown piece of my axle following two for the pics I referenced... Also the link to the 1 ton t'all (awesome build btw): https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=9339

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Coming to you from behind enemy lines, in an unmarked barn, somewhere in The Communist West
(Escape planned; currently waiting on a vauge, imprecise, and top secret imaginary countdown clock!)