Well 69 troubleshooting wise you have isolated the issue. You have tested that the direct ground of the FUEL warning light yellow lead lights the bulb. So the bulb and wiring are in good working order.

And direct grounding of the lead at the sender connection in the trunk - which sends zero ohms to the gauge and the LFWM at the same time, while sending the gauge to empty and beyond failed to light the bulb. So you have proved that the gauge can see below the factory set point and should be triggering the module to ground.

So that leaves only a few possibilities, either the LFWM wires are loose on the rear of the gauge, or the yellow connector to the light is loose, or the module is dead.

You can check the yellow lead of the module for ground with a meter if at zero ohms the yellow doesn't ground it is the module. I willing to bet it is the module and you might just cut to the chase and buy a new one.

Factory style replacements are available through Classic Headquarters and American Auto Wire - both versions resold through all the big box Camaro stores on-line, The Classic HQ version has original design with the mounting fingers at the top to secure the module in the hole of the gauge plate. The AAW version is smooth top and you just zip tie the module to mount.these modules seem to be standard around the 1/4 and below Ohms trigger point, but beware of some knock off's from China that are on eBay that are lower or higher set points, one reported as high as 3/4 full or as low as 2 Ohms which is like below the standard fuel sender intake sock.

You can invest a small amount more and get a variable set point so you can dial in when the light goes on.

These are made by M&H Electric Fabricators, Inc. 13537 Alondra Blvd. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 Great products, made in the USA but Crappy Website. Actually that is being kind, as it is one of the worse website designs I have ever used. So I'll help you out here with a direct link to the Camaro catalog PDF http://www.wiringharness.com/PDFS/CAM_2012_Camaro.pdf The family of Low Fuel Warning Modules are on the bottom of page 16 as noted below:

Don't know what 37651 looks like because there is no picture of the specific module listed for 67,68 and 69 but find it interesting that it is the same part number for all three years since 67 LFWM's sent power down the yellow to light the bulb and 68 and 69 grounded the yellow. In any event the "All Generic Adjustable" unit listed for one dollar more below is what I have used in other projects.

The big selling point here is that in 1969 there were four gas stations on every corner in every town and 20 gallon tanks and our expected MPG allowed us to wait until the 1/8 tank level to trigger the light. Today it takes 1/4 to get to the station. Set this module where you want the light to go on by Ohm's value, 1/4 to 1/2 are common.

So part number 500274 gets my vote until someone shows me the 37651 module. I would also Call them direct to order(562) 926-9552 since the website is quite the nightmare and only submits the order you have to call them anyways with payment information.

The same buzzers were used on all the speed warnings across division lines most years. Corvette houses often have reproductions in stock. They are on ebay all the time search for U15 or speed warning but leave off Camaro it will be cheaper.

A simple Potentiometer can duplicate the Ohm's needed for the module to trigger the ground. Typically 10 or less. Twist up and down to makes sure it goes on and off.

Or without the trip to RadioShack just trick the gauge into seeing zero Ohms. Do this by disconnecting the lead in the trunk from the fuel tank sender unit, then ground the connector that runs forward to the gauge. Your gauge will peg empty when you power up, and if the module is working it will trigger the ground and light the FUEL light.

If not chances are the module is dead and you can replace with factory style, or a variable that you set the trigger point so it can be a bit higher then the typical 1/8 tank.

Attached is the design of the original modules from a thread I started a few years back over at Team Camaro. Lots of tips and tricks in that thread to customize your trigger point.

The solid state VR should have nothing to do except turn charging on and off on a as needed basis. Since the gauge is wired between the main bus on the Horn Relay and the main junction block I would clean up all those connections and grounds and see if it goes away. If not run your multi-meter across your battery and see if you have any storage issues - bad cell or other issue there.

Looks good - nice job on the seats, did you job it out or tackle the upholstery yourself?If it was a BB the heater hoses would be the tell. Any under the hood pics to ponder?If she is an SS in your mind and you are being correct on the details, then maybe you want to change the steering wheel emblem too from the bowtie to SS.Nice job and I look forward to some pics and details.Brian

You have a lot going on. Good to hear the Tachometer is stable. What seats did you go with? 3 point seatbelts from who? Okay on to your trouble....

Sounds stupid but pull off a headlight connector, and put your multi-meter on your low beam bulb connection? zero Ohms would indicate no filament. Also check the connection at the high-beam switch - location leaves it prone to moisture and rot out is common.

The courtesy lights are switched two ways the headlight knob turned to the click position all the way clockwise is ON. Or the door jam switch which actually grounds the circuit. Lift the wire lights go out. Touch to jam lights on. So check both door switches. If that doesn't solve it you might have a dead short someplace.

Fog Lights? Do you mean parking lights up front in the valance? They rely on great grounds to the sheet metal, slightly off no lights - park or turn. If you have turn but no park double check that you have two filament bulbs installed. Should be amber and have off set pins on the sides of the base so in theory they only install one way.

Just watching it snow here and revising my old how to document. Should have it done by the time I need to dig out the Jeep.

You can also run the leads yourself with the right gauge wire from any parts store. Many have the right stripped colors too. Yes you connect them on the bulkhead connector. I'll pull out my directions to get the right x and y for you and send them to you tonight as someone else over at TC is looking for them too.

Yeah it does sound like you will be able to use your Tach out of the box with a standard filter. The one that Jim's website firstgens.com details works for most folks. Cheap from Radio Shack or I think for a small fee Jim will build you one.

As with all projects I have found for me at least having a detailed plan and doing a dry run always makes the project go smoother. Still you always find issues a PO or you created down the road and now that trips you up. I always plan on any project taking two weekends, that way I'm never up against a hard deadline.

No amp due to connection: I'm on my way home so I'll put the documentation I wrote fro another site. It depends on who's wiring kit you purchased, but most come with both the inside and the hood side wires leads. If yours only had one pair to the fuse-block side, then yes You need to connect from bulkhead to horn and junction block.

Yeah the headlight switch should be the console version anyways in order to account for the increase in draw by the console lighting so no harm there. I prefer the ones with the ceramic collar on the dimmer for heat control.

Tachometer wise if your ignition box has a port look up the model on the web and see if there is a filter for an analog tach. If you are using a GM HEI dizzy search TC and firstgens.com for a thread on getting an analog tach working. The option is also to have the Tach rebuilt to take the non analog signal and if you fry it testing they can rebuild it non analog at the same time

The correct console conversion harness should have all the lines in it for the fuel light since you re purpose the oil light for that. The LFW module is the tricky part since that was where the option gets triggered. SOme folks use the factory style and others use the variable set point module so you can customize when the light will come on.

The correct console (has to match your transmission option) will have the orange and white lighting runs in it. Yeah the 20 mins assumed you had already done the hood wood add 20 to 40 minutes to run the amp lines and the Tachometer feed, and oil line.

LOL yeah and I didn't mention the bloody knuckles trying to do it with the carrier in place.Wells-Airtex makes the right calibration and connection - most parts counters should have it in stock.Are you using Classic HQ reproductions or the internal resisted OER versions of the console gauges?The Classic HQ are original style external resisted so you can "change/correct" the output of the temp gauge to point dead center at normal operating temp of 180. There are a few threads on TC calculating the amount of additional resistance you add tot he back of the gauge.There is also a thread on TC comparing various manufacturers senders and Ohm's values at specific temps.

You are in the home stretch! maybe another 20 minutes for the harness.

No clock? It is part of the option and should be there to be factory correct. In any event it is your ride - do as you wish.You can cut out the shell with the dremmel tool from the front, but you will still need to get behind the carrier to unbolt the existing fuel gauge, and to mount the Tachometer.It is very difficult to do from behind and underneath but it can be done, just takes a ton more time to do that way.

If you have rubber small hands you can remove the pod fuel gauge with the dash carrier in place but it is much easier to do so once the unit is pulled and on a bench. Also the template to cut the pod is usually rear facing, or if you are just using the cutout line on the plastic you need good light. The clock cutout can be made from the front. You can leave the ashtray and glove box in place - nothing to change.