Visit one of Spain’s stunning white villages. Spend a day wandering the cobblestones in Vejer De La Frontera, a traditional Andalusian ‘pueblo blanco’ that’s been ruled by Phoenicians, Romans, Moors. and Christians.

The people either side of me are grinning. The barman is laughing. I had already been waiting here for some time, hemmed in on all sides by the tell-tale, claustrophobic crush of any Spanish bar that has earned its stripes with a local clientele