Wednesday, 4 April 2018

There is an old English
saying – “Lesser known are more interesting.” There are boundless treasures of
nature hidden from our view in the inaccessible frontiers of the Country. These
beautiful gifts, the abundances of Nature, are indeed intoxicating.

To the die-hard lovers of nature, nowadays, trekking is
becoming more and more popular. It is such route, where Civilisation’s paw is
not yet felt. The animals, the birds, the green, the mountain and the sky are
waiting for those who feel delighted to make one’s acquaintance with wild
Cascades, the unknown mountain ranges and the unfamiliar blossoms.

To unwind for an extended weekend of three days from the
humdrum of day-to-day life, we chose to go trekking to Buxa and further north
to Lapchakha, to feel the pulse of nature! With endless green against a blue
azure sky, the Buxa Tiger Reserve in Dooars at the foot of the Himalayas in
West Bengal is a land of surreal dreams.

From Kolkata, we come
to Alipurduar by train. We get along with our tour on Day 1; from Alipurduar
Court area taking an early lunch.

The journey along the Buxa Feeder road is mesmerizing. In
the horizon we see the smoky mountain ranges. As we move on contemplating, all
of a sudden we’re to believe that we’ve come far beyond the lush green
tea-gardens. We’re so much engrossed with our thoughts that without any notice,
the deep enthralling forests of Dooars engulf us. Dense Sal forests surrounded
us. The silent nerve-wrecking shadowy road moves on and on. The drowning of
Crickets is the only other sound felt.

In this Tour we’re
joined and guided by Mr. Tamal Goswami, who we learn as we proceed is an
archaeologist, a friend of nature and also of the forest dwellers, in the true
sense of the term. A halt at the Rajabhatkhawa Nature Interpretation Centre is
an experience. It helps us to reveal the detailed study of nature, with its
flora and fauna. After getting our permits to enter the Core forest of Buxa Tiger
Reserve, we arrive at Santrabari, from where onwards we’re to trek.

Carrying our haversacks
on back, along with our food materials, we start trekking. According to the
local people, the journey is of forty-five minutes. For the people of plains,
it takes two and a half hours. The route is along the lap of the range, like a
Python, turning this way and that. An ascent followed by a descent, again an
ascent….. We trek through the virgin forests and listen to the magical music of
nature.

Hsshh!! Just a word for
you secretly. Mr. Goswami is slowly revealing to us the magic spell of
wilderness! – his acquainting us with the unknown blossoms, rare orchids, wild
smells, hilly cascades and glimpses of beautiful birds with their signature
tunes is a melody forever.

After an hour’s wild trekking
we reach the first village – Sadar Bazar. For those who cannot take the journey
at a starch on want to enjoy the wild, wildlife – they can stay at Rover’s Inn.
But we opt to move on. Several Drukpa (tribal)
children in red, green, yellow greet us along the way and join us.

As we continue over
journey, it is nearly late afternoon. All of a sudden, much to our surprise he
points us – the beams of sunlight glimmer over the top of the Buxa fort!
‘Megher Gaye Jailkhana’ (মেঘেরগায়েজেলখানা) –
the detune camp amidst smoky clouds. We emerge onto a valley.

(Hey look! Is this the place where we’re going to stay? A
wooden house!)

The forest villagers join their hands to play hosts for
the tourists. In other words the nature lovers or trekkers are accommodated in
the homes of ethnic villagers and entertain them with local cuisine &
flavor. The setting sun in the backdrop of the Buxa fort seems to step forward
to establish this strong bondage between man and nature.

As complete darkness engulfs us, we come back to the Dukpas
Hut. From the bedroom’s windows it’s the round silvery moon in eastward ho! The
early dinner in solar long consists of hot rice, Dukpa chicken curry with
salad. The full moon lulls us to sleep.

Next morning we come out early, to be a companion of the
tender, un-smelt dawn. The tempting Buxa fort calls us. The foothills of the
Bhutan hills – Buxaduar has a history of its own. From a territorial fort to a Detention
camp, the walls still bear the whisperings.
Later on we visited the Heritage Museum.

Our next destination is further east to Lapchakha. The
hilly route through big and small crevices moves along prattling with the
mountains and the forests. Moving amidst the forests, smearing our bodies with the
smell of greenery, enveloping in the mystery of chiaroscuro – has a joy in
itself. As we enter the village, we pass through a Buddhist (stupa) Chorten.

After an hour, amazement awaits us. It’s a valley!! – The
touch of the magic wand of the wizard has revealed to us a wonder world! On
entering Lapchakha, dense fog surrounds us. As we stand mesmerized, all of a
sudden, everything changes to a golden hue, again by the trick of the invisible
magician.

Our resting place in Lapchakha is ‘Da chhin’ – one
of the few houses of the Dukpas, providing strong ethnic flavor. As lunch we’re
served with their inimitable cuisine. I personally find ‘Ima taachi’
mouthe watering.

Night came in steady steps here. Slowly the different
ranges, dense forests, distant rivers, vanish out of our sight as dense clouds
and fog engulf us. The solitary cry of the ‘Ha-titi’ wishes us goodnight!

On day 3, its time to descend ‘Phodgem’ (the elder
brother) owner of the Da chin) and his family bid us farewell. We bid adieu to
the endless shades of green, music of supreme silence to innumerable faces to
Lapchakha and to Buxa. We return by the same route. Winds blowing through
rustling leaves, the non-stop music of mountain streams, rays of golden
sunlight trickling through the surroundings accompany us till Santrabari where
our carriage is waiting for us – and we think it’s from here that we start to
real journey.

How to go: One has to reach
New Alipurduar or Alipurduar Junction by train from Kolkata/ Bombay/ Delhi. One
can go from Alipurduar to Santrabari by any conveyance and then trek onwards to
Buxa.