Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Yeah, it's hard to let go of some discs. The Pro Wraith and Valk cover the understable driver category but the Valk has a more reliable fade and is good for low ceilings. The Pro Wraith is good with controlled oat for a late turn that doesn't fade back.

I was thinking more of TB/EX being close at least a worn EX and SS/Roc overlapping.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

A few changes... added some Millenium drivers. The Summit is now my main putter, I like the low profile. Took out the Destroyer and added a C-PD for strong winds and spike hyzers. I've tried a lot of different mids but stuck with the same line up.

Some apparent overlap between the JLS and Leopard; however, the JLS is surprisingly stable and I am not able to throw annys like I can with the Leopard. The Teebird is beefy and I have yet to turn it over in any conditions.

Fairway DriversLeopard - Star - 171 - when I want to make the fairway my bitchTeebird - Star - 167 - because it is really ugly and causes opponents to freezeTeebird - 12x Champ - 175 (firebird stability) - I don't really need this, but when I do, people always say "nice" after I throwVolt - Neutron - 168 (unusually flippy) - backhand shots that need to finish right because my forehand is shakier than a Michael J Fox handshake

Distance DriversSOLS - 164 - more reliable than Prodigy plastic in the windPD - P Line - 172 - because if you don't have one, you better have an OLF or you will loseOrc - Star - 175 (flat & beefy) - when I want to hit a dirty stoner smoking in the woods to the left of the fairwayWraith - Pro Beat - 168 - used anytime I want to finish first because it will do anything I tell it to

Now I know the Beast and Wraith are two different speeds, but what differences are showing between the two for you? I've been thinking about stepping up to a different driver as I've been turning over my Beasts more than I'd like and wondering if the Wraith has any more turn resistance, as it were.

The Beast is beat and has a lot of turn at this point of its life. It won't stand up to a strong headwind. The Wraith is still fresh and definitely more stable. I might put a Villain back in my bag with the gales of November closing in. Also looking to pick up a fresh Beast to get some stability back.

aerodriver wrote:Now I know the Beast and Wraith are two different speeds, but what differences are showing between the two for you? I've been thinking about stepping up to a different driver as I've been turning over my Beasts more than I'd like and wondering if the Wraith has any more turn resistance, as it were.

Beasts from three years and more back turned more than new ones. Well IDK about DX new but the other plastics need to be thrown to 400' before they turn for me. Normally i get between 20-24 revs per second to the disc at 50+ MPH record being 57. So i have a good spin vs speed considering there are 600' throwers with 30 revs at 80 MPH. So is your Beast old and or light? Getting a new one or a heavier one and one that is not DX may help tons. The Beast wears slowly in other plastics as DX and i have used a 166 pro for years as the primary driver and it is still good. Amazing for medium plastic and testament to the ease of throwing the Beast in that i have not hit trees at high speeds (for me) that often. But i have and the disc shrugs it off really well. Better than many champ plastic discs in other molds.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Thanks for the explanation Stringbean and JR. I've been throwing a 166g and 169g Star Beasts mainly and can get good rips where they turn when put on an attempt for an S-curve and don't come back, they just level out and fall. Useful, but not what I need out of my main driver!

The next steps up in hss and the ability to pull out of anny while shorter aree s td and high plh opto flow with a high dome. Flow is pretty much parred for me with distance but being more power hungry faster and a hair less gliding due to the earlier fade and the std just fading out earlier means lasers are not an option with them. S td is at least 15' shorter on average and max and flater gummiercones flip a lot in c while s lines vary from straight to a little flipping.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.