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Anyone know if these guys budge at all on the price of their used vehicles? There's one I have my eye on but recently seen another car for 14k cheaper with only 10k more km (same year but a differently color and interior). I want to get a deal done but I have a price in my head that I think is fair and reasonable (also manageable for myself) but paying 14k more because it's sitting on a BMW lot doesn't make sense at all to me. Any input would be awesome! Thanks.

Was thinking just that. We just missed out the 2010 135i that we contemplated getting and it sold the morning we decided to get it. Now we found one @ T+C BMW but they ask for such a high premium it makes no sense to buy used, for a few more you can get new =\

14 k cheaper , that is a great difference, I would be doing alot of due diligence on that cheaper car; TC doesnt bulge much, if you can get 2.5k lower, you will be lucky...

I won't even waste my time then. The car was @ North York Chrysler and had absolutely no issues or anything (took me almost 30 minutes of looking it over before I even turned it on). Even came with a 3yr/160k warranty extension that you could use @ local BMW dealerships. I just refuse to get dragged over the coals for a vehicle that I know I could get cheaper and should have jumped on the previous one. Was just wondering how others have been treated and how they have negotiated with T+C before.

Thing is, we want to trade in our MS3. No point in having 2 vehicles when we only need the one. We could look @ 335i's but the price jump on those are retarded as well, which is understandable since it is overall a bigger car. There was some talk about looking @ a 2010 MC C230, or 250 or even a C300. It just won't have the performance appeal and will just be a bland DD.

Funny thing is, the prices are so different from place to place it's hard to gauge what is a good deal or not. That's why we took our time seeing if getting the other 135i that sold was a good purchase or not. By the time we thought things through about getting it, it was sold by then. Now I'm kicking myself in the butt because it was auto/paddle and a nice color combo with low km.

It hurts a lot to compare prices from the used bmw lot to the rest of the world, especially the states. I also happen to know that their pre certified specs have fallen way off in terms of what they now repair or replace. The premium now is for NOTHING!

Thing is, we want to trade in our MS3. No point in having 2 vehicles when we only need the one. We could look @ 335i's but the price jump on those are retarded as well, which is understandable since it is overall a bigger car. There was some talk about looking @ a 2010 MC C230, or 250 or even a C300. It just won't have the performance appeal and will just be a bland DD.

Funny thing is, the prices are so different from place to place it's hard to gauge what is a good deal or not. That's why we took our time seeing if getting the other 135i that sold was a good purchase or not. By the time we thought things through about getting it, it was sold by then. Now I'm kicking myself in the butt because it was auto/paddle and a nice color combo with low km.

i wouldn't trust any of those places besides mayyyyybe the dixie vw dealer...maybe

The high price is due to brand dealership which brings certain benefits like it's a actual BMW dealership, supposedly less hassles if you have issues with the car, they can offer as a BMW CPO, provide full disclosure about any accidents, have more staff on hand to service you, will follow BMW industry standards etc...

You just need to decide if any of that matters to you in your buying decision.

If you buy from a non BMW dealership, ask them if it was in a accident and then besides seeing the car report and checking out the car closely, get a BMW Inspection II for your self protection and piece of mind.

If you find they either didn't know it was in a accident or upon close examination notice alot of touch up was done, consider not buying it.

Be prepared to shell out some $ if the BMW inspection comes back with a laundry list of issues. Again, up to you to decide at this point.

The high price is due to brand dealership which brings certain benefits like it's a actual BMW dealership, supposedly less hassles if you have issues with the car, they can offer as a BMW CPO, provide full disclosure about any accidents, have more staff on hand to service you, will follow BMW industry standards etc...

You just need to decide if any of that matters to you in your buying decision.

If you buy from a non BMW dealership, ask them if it was in a accident and then besides seeing the car report and checking out the car closely, get a BMW Inspection II for your self protection and piece of mind.

If you find they either didn't know it was in a accident or upon close examination notice alot of touch up was done, consider not buying it.

Be prepared to shell out some $ if the BMW inspection comes back with a laundry list of issues. Again, up to you to decide at this point.

CPO is not what it used to be. In the past they gladly replaced worn or near replacement needed parts such as breaks for just one example. Now a CPO inspection can pass with the bare minimum, that is disgusting and for extra "help" in the dealership they can keep their $10k over piced car.

So the truth is while you may sit your butt in a fancy chair and drink a coffee while they "help" you...in weeks or months you can still see $$$$ repair or replacement bills. The only thing that fails an inspection and needs immediate replacing is on a car you didnt buy from them. Not all dealerships or all mechanics are like this but there seems to be a change happening.

I hear you. We checked out a 08 328i with more options but it was imported from the US and had an accident so we walked.

The US part...who cares, really?
The accident part? How bad, what was replaced/repainted/claimed? To say "it had an accident, so we walked" is very silly if you haven't bothered to do the research.

People claim ANYTHING when they have no/low deductable and a newer car (or they just don't know better). A stone cracked headlight, a cracked bumper from bumping into a parking curb, side swiping the rear door in a parking garage, etc, all those are considered "claims or accidents" in Insurance's eye (or the adjusters doing it) and get recorded but it could mean nothing. Meanwhile, there are write offs that get privately repaired and people never know thinking they bought a "non accident car". I see it all the time.

Good luck, but do your research more thoroughly and don't focus so much on the nickles and dimes (obviously 14K is a large price difference) and when you see something, jump on it. People these days are so afraid of getting burned or overspending by a grand that they miss out on good cars because they take too long to think. Do your research before you go see the car, not after.

The US part...who cares, really?
The accident part? How bad, what was replaced/repainted/claimed? To say "it had an accident, so we walked" is very silly if you haven't bothered to do the research.

People claim ANYTHING when they have no/low deductable and a newer car (or they just don't know better). A stone cracked headlight, a cracked bumper from bumping into a parking curb, side swiping the rear door in a parking garage, etc, all those are considered "claims or accidents" in Insurance's eye (or the adjusters doing it) and get recorded but it could mean nothing. Meanwhile, there are write offs that get privately repaired and people never know thinking they bought a "non accident car". I see it all the time.

Good luck, but do your research more thoroughly and don't focus so much on the nickles and dimes (obviously 14K is a large price difference) and when you see something, jump on it. People these days are so afraid of getting burned or overspending by a grand that they miss out on good cars because they take too long to think. Do your research before you go see the car, not after.

The US car was hit by a deer. It looked like it was put back together perfectly thb. But the payment $$ was not what we had in mind. So overall, we decided to pass up on the car.

We did do a lot of research but the choice to not get a vehicle is pretty big. We had a monthly budget that we want to stick with and know how much the car is worth ect. and based on those choices we made our final decision. It was just bad timing. I wanted to put some money down on the car and we had to contact Mazda Canada about our extended warranty (Our car vin# now has a 7r/160k attached to it) so we wanted to ask for 1k more for our car before trade-in.

I wish we had more time but we just recently moved from Ottawa back and still need address changes to complete the move. Hopefully during my searching we can find something we like but asking 14k more for almost the same vehicle, I just can't justify buying it. I could pay 27,28k for it but not 35k. The finances won't make much sense at that point.

Searching through autotrader for 2008 to 2010, there are about 5 135s below $30k, the rest are $31 to $39k, so I am not surprise to see average price of $35k, so buying at your price is achiever, you just have to work harder.. lol else buy the 128