South Florida's own Michelle Bernstein knows a thing or two about duck liver. She's mastered its intricacies, able to perform ballerina-like maneuvers of flavor and texture, to dial up contrast or turn it down when needed. The seared foie gras she serves at the Omphoy frequently changes shape -- from an immaculately caramelized disc served over a German pancake lavishing in savory maple syrup to a sultry dish of chocolate mole and dark cherries. In any form, though, the prized piece of offal is itself on display, unctuous and quivering with a crust that would make Maillard proud. A taste of Bernstein's foie gras and you suddenly understand why the foodstuff has evoked so much emotion from both sides of the aisle.