“A Disney Store for wine-loving grown-ups,” was how the Decanter judges described the 2008 world’s best online retailer.

The Berry Bros & Rudd website is so complex you can almost taste the magic before it arrives – complete with a Royal seal of approval.

Britain’s oldest wine and spirit merchants has been trading from the same SW1 London address for more than 300 years. It also runs a factory outlet in Basingstoke which has a permanent 25 per cent bin-end sale.

I was keen to test the online arm of the business and ordered in some Austrian rarities – outstanding wine which tends to stay inside the national border. Be warned, zesty Grüner Veltliners do not come cheap.

The 2007 Spiegel Hiedler (£10.45) shows good length and complexity with guava, peach and the obligatory lick of white pepper, a trademark of the grape, all evidenced.

If you’re willing to go up the scale try the 2006 Lamm Schloss Gobelburg (£27.95) – more than ready now but will only improve in your cellar.

Riesling – a truly great white variety – also thrives in Austria and one of its finest is the 2006 Smaragd Hirtzberger (£39.95). Incredibly rich and complex with lime flavours mixed with a flamboyant acidity and fulsome palate. Uncork only on special occasions, for you will not be disappointed.

Visit “inspirational” www.bbr.com for a play – discover the wine club, tastings, dinners and school – and to buy some of the most interesting wine ever bottled.

Prices start below £5 but do go up into the eye-watering hundreds, so please order sober.