Thanks buck, I am always trying to do it myself to save a few bucks. I went to 2 tranny shops (mom and pop type) hoping they would quote me a price. Both said they wouldn't even touch the job. They told me that I would have to replace the whole axle and the driveshaft and that it wouldn't be worth the money to even bother. So I guess if I ask for more acceleration out of my 3.0L 5speed with 3.45 open rear over, and over, and over, I get responses from the list to swap the rear gears, I don't even want to hear it anymore because it is not that simple. H*LL I can't even get a professional to do it!!! So I guess I am selling the truck, again.
PS: The custom tranny shops wanted more than $2500 which I think is highway robbery.

I read somebody say that ford engines bite, and I'll have to agree...
although they "may" produce power, only the high end 5.0ltr and v-8 do
enough in that arena. When you look at the foreign cars/trucks, the
Japanese are making vehicles with smaller engines and more H/P!! Top it all
off, they get a sh*tload more mpg.... Why the hell is Ford still only
gettin 17 or 18 mpg on a new truck when a toyota does 25 mpg CITY???? Why?
Because the Gov't LET'S THEM.... I realize that mileage may not be AS big a
deal down in the US as here in Canada (or the rest of the world where oil is
NOT subsidized), but the rest of the world tries to conserve energy, even in
trucks.
I love ford... but when i need to replace my engine... my truck is going
to become a Fordota.
Lou Guerriero

I tell you what LOU bring you Fordota over and put it up against my
truck. I will show what American V-8 is all about! As for no ford motors
other than v-8's having power...There is the 205 hp 4.0 V6 in the
explorers, the 205 hp 4.2 205 hp V6 in the F150, 3.8 200 hp V6 in the
windstars, the 3.0 200 hp V6 tauras. Can toyota 4 runner out run the
explorer..NO! The best there trucks can muster is 190 hp.
Chris

Thats why when crude goes up 10%, gas at the pumps goes up 20+%. The
reserves couldn't put a dent in the actual usage. The US makes a boatload
of money operating that business that you call a subsidy. A subsidy
usually spends money to keep prices down. They don't lose money and
prices rise more than crude.

>When
> prices drop, the opec nations have to sell more oil to meet their cash
> needs, and that makes prices drop more. That is called an indirect subsidy.

That has nothing to do with US subsidies. The law of supply and demand in
a foreign nation is US subsidy??

> 2) Canada was one of the first Nations to formally adopt the UN
> resolution to Oust Saddam Hussein from Kuwait. For us, it was not about
>oil.

I didn't say you didn't help, I just said you couldn't have done squat
on your own.

> We have tons of the stuff here.

Then what are you whining about.

>And we were in the trenches. I am in the
> military, I know. Perhaps because the US has over 10 times our
>population, our contribution did not seem significant.

Your right, we needed other nations in the fight to make it seem like
we weren't being a world bully.

>Deserve more of it? Huh, I bet
> the guys on the USS princeton might have a different view of your
>energy consumption needs.. they were the ones that took a MINE just so
>you could waste oil?

OH please!!!!, I've been to the Persian gulf on an Aircraft Carrier as
recently as 2 months ago. There is a factory car sales rep for Ford, GM,
and Chrysler. This guy sells 5 vehicles a day, site unseen, mostly
guzzling trucks. Who's the first guy to fire up his 69 Mach one when he
gets back from a tour. No one forces anyone (anymore) to be in the
military, but don't tell me that any US military personnel doesn't have a
major stake or doesn't even enjoy their ability to consume or even
over-consume.

>3) As for the Jap/US vehicle thing... My friend had a toyota, I don't
> remember the brand/number but it was 4WD, was jacked about 6 inches, had 31
> inch tires on a 6 cyl engine, and got 25 mpg city. Just a fact.

Fine, one example among thousands who don't, just a fact.

>I do agree
> about the torque ... low end is important to many,

Low end is everything!!

> but these days, people
> buy trucks instead of cars.... just because...

I'll agree with the me too kind of attitude to a point. When a member of
my own family who couldn't change their own oil buys a sport-ute for the
first time and claims they will never buy anything else again, it's gotta
be on the merits of the vehicle. Repetative truck buyers wouldn't waste
their money (and a lot of it) twice.

> So... why don't they do something about the mileage? Ans: They don't
> want to.

Well, since emissions on modern vehicles have been brought down to
almost nill, why should they. The argument that consumption, in itself,
is somehow evil, is fundamentally flawed.

> I've had plenty of grief with this aspect of my truck (don't get me
> wrong, I still love it.. but...), and am wondering what I can do to
> strengthen the front end.

Not sure what you mean by strenghten. Superunner makes a steering
system that effectivley equalizes tie rod links. I haven't driven it on
small trucks, but on larger bronc's it makes a huge difference. reduces
wandering and general vagueness

Another sore point on TTB is the radius arm bushings. These bushings
allow funky camber changes, especially under hard braking. Urethane
helps, but be prepared for giving up your road noise isolation.

>Would a steering stabilizer make any difference
> in how the front end wears/gets out of whack?

I put one on my 88 BII when I put 31's on it. Didn't seem to change
anything in the way the car tracked, handled, felt.

> Alignments

Have them set camber at zero. The tolerances in the spec for Fords TTB
are huge and Fords specs shoots for something other than zero camber. The
TTB has wild enough camber swings on it's own. No reason to start off at
a static camber other than zero.

I ended up getting a camber adj guage from JC whit and adjustable
alignment shims from Specialty Products. I started doing my own
alignments, which seemed to need to be done every 6 months. I didn't have
camber induced tire wear, but twice a year, I started developing a pull
to one side or the other. I just kept tweaking caster until it
didn't pull anymore. I never had problems with ball joints or traction
bar bushings.

1) The US pays less for oil because we buy so much of it. It's not
subsidy, it's VOLUME.

2) Because gas is cheap (you Detroit area people are paying well under
$1 probably), we in the US can afford to drive vehicles that are large
and thirsty.

3) My Ford gets poor mileage (comparitively speaking...my early Bronco
buddies are happy to get 10-12 mpg.) in part because of it's weight. My
last truck was a Toyota. It got great mileage, it was dependable, it
was a little underpowered, the sheet metal was a lot thinner.

4) The US automakers will build fuel efficient trucks when its customers
start buying them (meaning when gas hits $2 a gallon and stays there).

All those looking into Smitty Built's but can't get them for your year &
model - I suggets you check out Reunel Mfg. Co. They make the ultimate
off-road H.D. bumpers ever. Most come with winch mounts, tow hooks, aux.
lights, push bars, recievers, and a cool mount for your Hi-Lift jack.

Aaahhh... I love it..... that's great.... just flash your lights and toss
me a beer on your way by.

Diana Slyter wrote:

>Yeah, but I need the enclosed cargo space of the Aerostar to hide the mid
>mounted 8V92 Detroit. Should still leave plenty of space behind the rear
>axle for groceries and beer. Sorry that the Ranger can only accomodate a
>460....

I've just received my K&N air filter, and plan on putting it into my '96
Ranger (3.0L) this weekend. I'll probably get the entire K&N 'air routing duct
work" later.
Does it really matter anymore how very clean the air is going to the engine?
The air no longer has to go through a carburetor to get mixed with gas. What
difference does it make if a few small particles of dust make it through the
filter? Won't they just be burned up in the cylinder, and the smoke exhausted
through the tail pipe? It seems to me that the quantity of air is more
important than the cleanliness of the air.
Ron
blest25913 aol.com

panel/fender area... I am getting water on my floor through the wiring duct
on the drivers side.... It's a swimming pool! I can't seem to access this
area any other way, and it seems I have to remove that whole fender to get
in and seal it up inside..... Haynes manual has nothing on the subject, and
I don't wanna just start removing bolts at random!
>>
When I picked up my new '93 Ranger it was raining. By that night there was
several inches of water on the passenger side floor.
I took it to the dealer and they resealed the windshield. When the leak came
back (just a little) a month later, I put some clear plastic caulking around
the lower right side of the windshield as best as I could after raising the
hood. The leak never came back again. This might be your problem.
Ron

Blest25913 wrote:
>
> I've just received my K&N air filter, and plan on putting it into my '96
> Ranger (3.0L) this weekend. I'll probably get the entire K&N 'air routing duct
> work" later.
> Does it really matter anymore how very clean the air is going to the engine?
> The air no longer has to go through a carburetor to get mixed with gas. What
> difference does it make if a few small particles of dust make it through the
> filter? Won't they just be burned up in the cylinder, and the smoke exhausted
> through the tail pipe? It seems to me that the quantity of air is more
> important than the cleanliness of the air.
> Ron
> blest25913 aol.com
> +---------Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer & Bronco 2--------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks-small listservice.net, |
> | List removal information is on the web site. |
> +---------- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ ----------+

Yes, I agree. Applause to Mr. Payne for his Web Site. Not only was that guys
comment really obnoxious, but it was also kind of weird. From what he wrote
it doesn't look like his thinking is that well develped (I can say that, I'm a
psychologist!). Thanks for all the time, effort, and money you put into this
site Mr. Payne.

At 04:03 PM 3/10/98 EST, you wrote:
>
>I've just received my K&N air filter, and plan on putting it into my '96
>Ranger (3.0L) this weekend. I'll probably get the entire K&N 'air routing duct
>work" later.
>Does it really matter anymore how very clean the air is going to the engine?
>The air no longer has to go through a carburetor to get mixed with gas. What
>difference does it make if a few small particles of dust make it through the
>filter? Won't they just be burned up in the cylinder, and the smoke exhausted
>through the tail pipe? It seems to me that the quantity of air is more
>important than the cleanliness of the air.
>Ron
>blest25913 aol.com

Clean air is the single most important factor in engine longevity
followed by proper oil changes. Not all dirt "burns". Some stays
solid and will eventually score the piston walls.

FO>Thanks buck, I am always trying to do it myself to save a few bucks. I went
FO>PS: The custom tranny shops wanted more than $2500 which I think is highway

FO>Randy
FO>randaldgazdecki eaton.com
FO>Eaton Corporation

FO>"Champions keep playing until
FO>they get it right."
FO> -Billie Jean King

Gee Randy, I wouldn't sell the truck just yet. I agree, $2500 is
robbery, and if the mom and pops' won't touch it you probably don't want
them to. Some suggestions: 1. Go to a 4 WD shop, and ask them, those
guys are always changing R&Ps. (drag racers and roundy round guys are
good, too) 2. Try the local salvages for a low mileage axle with the
desired ratio and bolt the whole thing in. 3. Do the salvage thing for
a donor axle, put it on the work bench at home, DO YOUR HOMEWORK, buy
the needed tools, and do it yourself. This will take alot of the
pressure off, there is no time limit because your pickup will still take
you to work Monday. 4. If the Eaton Corp. under your signature is the
Eaton Corp. that makes truck trannies, look for some help where you
work. Setting up a R&P should be childs play to some of those guys. 5.
Check out the local jr. college or trade school and ask the instructor
to point you in the right direction. Those guys are usually local
ex-mechanics and know alot, if not all of the other local mechanics.
They also know who does what, who NOT to go to, etc. 6. Trade for a
Ranger with a 4.0 (I'm kidding)

I sure didn't mean for you to give up with my last reply, but I didn't
want to see you get in over your head. (Been there, done that) Your
Ranger may not accelerate like you want it to, but I know it is one
tough truck. I had an 89 with a 2.9. It was slow, but by gosh it ran
216K with nothing but routine maintenance until a 15 year old with a
learners pemit pulled out in front of me and I totaled it. A Ranger
makes a big hole in a Grand Cherokee, but that's another story. I did
buy another Ranger.

FO>I've just received my K&N air filter, and plan on putting it into my '96
FO>Ranger (3.0L) this weekend. I'll probably get the entire K&N 'air routing du
FO>work" later.
FO>Does it really matter anymore how very clean the air is going to the engine?
FO>The air no longer has to go through a carburetor to get mixed with gas. What
FO>difference does it make if a few small particles of dust make it through the
FO>filter? Won't they just be burned up in the cylinder, and the smoke exhauste
FO>through the tail pipe? It seems to me that the quantity of air is more
FO>important than the cleanliness of the air.
FO>Ron
FO>blest25913 aol.com

Ron, a Massey Ferguson engineer once told me that the amount of dirt
equal in mass to an aspirin tablet would dust (ruin) a 350 cu. in.
engine. ( a 354 Perkins specifically). You CAN NOT have the air too
clean, the gas or oil either for that matter.
Buck

> What difference does it make if a few small particles of dust
> make it through the filter? Won't they just be burned up in the
> cylinder, and the smoke exhausted through the tail pipe?

A good part of that dust is stuff that doesn't burn because
it is already fully oxidized, doesn't melt at combustion
temperatures (let alone vaporize) and is harder than your
cylinder walls, rings, and bearing surfaces. When weather
breaks down rocks and washes parts away, what is left
to blow around in the air is pretty much hard and chemically
stable. Stuff like silicate minerals and oxides like quartz and
corundum (used to make sandpaper and grinding wheels).
....

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