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Grindstone Caves Trail

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You don't get shorter and better walks than this in these or any other mountains. In just one hour from a public rest camp, you will find yourself deep in the wilderness, with not one but two large caves to chose from - caves that ring with the consequences of a dramatic past. Even the grindstones from which the shelters got their names still lie there on the cave floor. They date from the early 1800s, when the vulnerable Amahlubi people were chased by Zulu impis from the plains into the mountains. But even before that, these, and indeed all the hundreds of caves that dot the sandstone at the base of the main Drakensberg ramparts, sheltered small clans of Stone Age San, who are members of the oldest human line on earth.

The hike starts out the back of Injesuthi hutted camp, passing the small rondavels of the original Solitude resort, and almost immediately begins to climb the grassy hill. The hillside is littered with large boulders, around which are clusters of small trees and shrubs, while proteas grow on the more exposed slopes. The path climbs steadily towards the rock band and then ascends in large steps, where you'll almost certainly need to stop a few times to catch your breath. You then traverse the steep slope high above the Old Woman Stream, which rises against the main escarpment high up against the outline of the Old Woman Grinding Corn.

Below is dense forest, but there is no way of getting there. After just three kilometres, you come to the first of the two caves and should see at least two broken grindstones. Because of the steepness and the exposed feeling on the higher slopes, it feels like you have walked at least double that distance. You'll find the second cave on the same level about 50 metres further along. The first cave is the bigger and the more homely of the two, while the second has a small waterfall running over the lip, which freezes in winter. Up the valley you can see Monk's Cowl thrusting into the sky like a huge assegai, recalling the Zulu name for these mountains - Qathlamba, the barrier of spears.

You can lengthen the return trip by taking the path to the head of this valley and then going right (north) via Cataract Valley and Del'mhlwazini Stream back to camp for a seven-kilometre round trip.

Highlights

About

The Drakensberg mountain range begins its rise in the Eastern Cape, running along the length of KwaZulu-Natal’s western border. It also extends in fits and starts into Mpumalanga and covers a vast area stretching into the mountain kingdom of Lesotho.

It is generally agreed that the ‘Dragon mountains’ got their name from their ragged, irregular silhouette that looks like a dragon’s back from a distance. It was so-named by Dutch settlers. Another, albeit less popular, explanation is that early settlers were told by the locals that dragons lived in the mountains. This theory was given a bit more credence when numerous dinosaur footprints were discovered in the Eastern Free State.

The Zulu tribe has given the mountains its own, equally descriptive name – Ukhahlamba, or ‘the barrier of spears’. Whatever the language and whatever the explanation, there is no argument that the Drakensberg mountains are evocative and mysterious. It is a wild and beautiful area that can change from sunny to snowy in mere moments.

In 2001 a park was established that encompasses a huge tract of the mountains. Known as the Maloti-Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation Area, it covers 13 000km² of Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal. It includes the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a World Heritage Site that by itself covers some 2 400km² and is 150km long.

The Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park is a place of immense beauty and enormous spaces. It is one of the few true remaining wildernesses where hikers can walk for days without encountering other people.

It is no surprise, then, that this place is as dangerous as it is beautiful, and one must be well-prepared if tackling it on foot.

In the very north of the park is Royal Natal National Park. It is one of the jewels in the crown of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the proud guardian of the world famous ‘Amphitheatre’. This can be easily viewed from the road to the main camp of the park. A short walk along the river gives amazing photographic opportunities. The attractions of this park are many, from pleasant walks to fly-fishing and swimming in clear mountain streams. It is also home to the 850m-high Tugela Falls, the highest waterfall in Africa and the second highest in the world.

Other notable parks within the greater Drakensberg Park are Giant’s Castle, Kamberg and Loteni Nature Reserves. Each has its own attractions, capable of keeping the tourist busy for days on end.

The Drakensberg was declared a World Heritage Site for a number of reasons. It is an area of incredible natural diversity with over 2 100 plant species, more than 200 of which are endemic to the area. It is also home to over 60 species of mammal, including the threatened oribi and herds of eland and black wildebeest. It has nearly 50 species of reptile and more than 300 bird species. The naturalist will definitely find a visit to the Drakensberg incredibly rewarding.

No less interesting is the human history of the area. A prime drawcard is the San rock art. Excellent examples can be seen in Giant’s Castle. There is also a recreation of how these people prospered in the mountains until they were ruthlessly hunted out of existence by both black and white settlers.

Look out for

The Bushmen paintings are a unique art form that shrouded in mystery and deserving of at least an afternoon’s attention. The fact that they are almost always to be found in remote, beautiful caves adds to their allure. And the walk there adds to the attraction.

Hiking is one of the most popular pastimes in the Drakensberg. Depending on fitness and time, hikers can choose from short but beautiful walks to multi-day hikes. On the latter one needs to be entirely self-sufficient and equipped for inclement weather - including snow - no matter what time of the year it is.

The Giants Cup Hiking Trail is the premier ‘Berg hike, totalling almost 60km and usually taking five days to complete. It runs from Sani Pass to Busman’s Nek in the south.

The Amphitheatre in the Royal Natal National Park is one of the first things that should be put on the ‘To Do’ list. You haven’t really been to the Drakensberg until you’ve viewed it from below - and then again from the top. Here you will encounter one of the most breathtaking views in South Africa.

Fly-fishing is another excellent reason to visit the Drakensberg. KZN-Ezemvelo has a collection of very good trout waters in their reserves. Other dams and rivers are privately owned, but many are accessible to fisherman for a day fee.

The Lammergeier Hide at Giant’s Castle is an amazing place from which to get incredible sightings and photographs of birds. Highlights are the bearded vulture, Verreaux’s eagle, white-necked raven, lanner falcon and Cape vulture. Many smaller species can also be spotted. Booking is essential.

Sani Pass is one of South Africa’s great drives. In winter the pass is often closed due to ice and snow and can be a very hazardous drive. Remember that a passport is necessary to get onto the pass and a 4x4 vehicle is required by law.

When to go

To Do

Gallery

Events

Articles & Blogs

Monk’s Cowl to Ship’s Prow on the Contour Path

This trail starts at the Injesuthi Hutted Camp in the central Drakensberg. The first night is spent at the foot of the Monk’s Cowl valley and the second at the foot of the Ship’s Prow valley. The total distance of the trail is 30km and the total elevation change is 1000m. We completed it over four leisurely days. Only the last night is spent in a cave, making a tent an essential item. Also, we hiked this trail at the beginning of October, just before the onset of the summer rains, so we knew that water was going to be an issue. Not a major issue, but still...

Bannerman Pass – Langalibalele Pass

We recently decided to give the Berg a bash, but being a tad out of shape, decided on one of the easier routes to the escarpment: up Bannerman pass, and down Langalibalele pass in the Giant’s Castle section of the park. We did the trail over four days, although it is quite possible to do it in three if you are pressed for time.

The trail starts at the Giant’s Castle Camp in the central Drakensberg. It ascends the little Berg via Bannerman path and the first night...

Sani Pass Wild Flower Walk

The next Sani Pass (and Lesotho) Wild Flower Walk will take place on Sunday 28th January 2018.

This could be your last chance. The upgrading of Sani Pass has now begun. Work has started on the stretch between Good Hope and the South African border post. No one knows when work on the section we walk, the 8km to the Top will begin, so again we say that this may be your last opportunity to walk to Sani Pass before road works take over.

Add a short walk through the botanical wonderland of the Lesotho plateau to your exciting day on the Sani Pass.

uMhlambonja Ascent - round trip

The total distance of the trail is 30km and the total elevation change is 1850m. We did the trail over five days, although only four were spent hiking.

The trail begins at the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Didima camp in the central Drakensberg, and we eventually returned here. However, at the onset, our fate was unbeknownst to us. December 2010 turned out to be a voluptuously misty and rainy December for the Berg, and our...

How not to hike (2)

Alas, there was one more upset to come... but as I indicated earlier, all three girls are still my friends, so allow me to tell you how it all ended! We were all pretty eager to get a good night's rest, and spend the next day enjoying being so far up in the valley - I guess we were hoping to reap some reward from having pushed so hard on day 1.

Now, in the 'Berg you will often end up having to compromise when it comes to choosing where to pitch your tent, and on this particular instance, the only flat ground we could find that wasn't too close to...

How not to hike (1)

I am a lucky man... not because I went hiking in the Drakensberg with three girls, not because I am unharmed despite poor planning, and not because I managed to get my girlfriend's father's sporty Audi all the way to Injesuthi camp and back without breaking the undercarriage. No; I am a lucky man because the Drakensberg is such a breath-taking part of the country, that despite leading my girlfriend and two friends on the worst organised hike I have ever been involved in (also the first one I led, hmmm), all members involved are still happy to be my friends! Allow me to tell you...

Lightning in the Berg

Sheet lightning paints the sky at the foot of Ship's Prow pass, in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg. Camping in this storm turned out to be a blessing and a curse - sights, scents and sounds the likes of which you simply cannot get outside the mountains, but every second of awe is a second of sleep sorely missed after the hike to get there! This storm took the best part of three hours to blow over - a good reminder that even on the nicest of days (which it had been) you should still be prepared for anything when you go on long hikes.

INJESUTHI VALLEY TRAIL

The total distance of the trail is 27 kilometres and the total elevation change is 850 metres. We did the trail over a relaxing four days. It’s not a taxing hike and is ideal for a quick getaway early in the season or if you have inexperienced hikers in the group.

The trail starts at the Injesuthi Hutted Camp in the central Drakensberg. It runs along the valleys that have been...