Samar’s hidden gems

FOR the longest time, Samar has not enjoyed a reputation for being a tourist destination. The place evokes images of an island perennially battered by typhoons and perceived home of anti-government communist forces. However, the provincial government of Samar hopes to change these perceptions with the Spark Samar initiative, which aims to introduce the province’s hidden gems.

The island might be most famous for its caves, but Samar has more to offer for the intrepid traveler looking for a new nature escapade.

Coming from Tacloban, a good first stop would be San Juan by the bay. Walking past the mangrove forest via a bamboo walkway, visitors reach a large hut that is erected in the middle of the strait.

Here, guests can enjoy the view of the famous San Juanico Bridge from the Samar side, which emphasizes the bridge’s distinct curve. Guests can bring food and drinks or call in advance to have a sumptuous meal prepared for them. Aside from enjoying the view, guests can also take a dip in the swimming pen adjacent to the hut or take a kayak and paddle around the premises.

Located in Basey is the Sohoton Natural Bridge National Park, a section of the 840-hectare Samar Island Natural Park. Cruising through the river, one can see several rock formations, a sneak peak of what can be found at the end of the boat ride.

Sohoton Cave is a beginner-friendly cave with its firm, flat floors and overarching ceilings. Walking around the cave, visitors would be treated to sights of different stalactite and stalagmite deposits. With a little imagination, some rock formations transform into gigantic wings, rice terraces, eagle talons, mushrooms and even upraised arms. The steady sound of water that echoes faintly and the shimmering white calcium carbonate deposits are a gentle reminder that the cave is still alive and well.

Once out of the cave and back into sunlight, guests return to the river and then take a kayak. Due to the shallow waters past the Sohoton Cave, boats are unable to go to the next site – a natural bridge, also known as an open cave. After passing through the low entrance, the cave opens to a gargantuan ring of rock where people can sit and relish the sound of nature.

Another cave worth exploring is the Lobo Cave in Jiabong. Alsoa beginner-friendly cave, the spelunking experience starts out with a 10-foot rappel from the mouth of the cave down towards the floor. From there, it is a subterranean wonderland as visitors duck, swim and walk through the expanse of the cave. The cave is a hidden haven of magnificent mineral formation and is considered as one of the most beautiful caves in the Philippines.

Where there is a river, there will invariably be a waterfall and Calbiga is home to one. The sleepy barangay of Literon is the jump off point to what people have called the miniature Niagara Falls of Samar, the Lulugayan Falls.

The falls is only 30 minutes away from the town proper and several concrete slabs make the trek easier. The sound of rushing water is a signal of the strength of the falls and the rest area in front of the falls is perpetually blanketed in a fine mist from the spray of water.

Samar is riddled by rivers, but probably the most important one is the Ulot River. Before roads and highways were made, Ulot, the longest river in Samar spanning 90 kilometers, served as the major route of transport and trade in the island. The headwater starts at San Jose de Buan in Western Samar, passing downstream through Paranas and finally Can Avid in Eastern Samar.

Today, Ulot River is now a famous tourist attraction thanks to the torpedo boat ride. The jump-off point for the Ulot River Torpedo Extreme Boat Adventure is at SINP headquarters at Sitio Camp Uno, Brgy. Tenani, Paranas.

The 10km boat ride starts from the jump-off point towards an area called Deni’s Point. The calm start of the river ride lulls riders into a sense of relaxation which is quickly shattered when the boats start navigating the numerous rapids.

The boats used in Ulot have no outriggers to provide stability, relying instead on its low stance that allows the boat’s center of gravity to stay below the water line. It then becomes apparent why these boats were designed as such.

The torpedo boats are extremely maneuverable, almost like an aquatic motorcycle, banking left and right as the navigator and helmsman skillfully steer the boat past the rocky waters.

Reaching Deni’s point, guests can relax and have a meal as they watch the churning waters of the river flow through. The brave ones can jump into the frothy waters and enjoy the ride towards calmer waters under the watchful eye of the guides.

The ride back, known as the salmon run, is calmer compared to the downstream trip. During the ride, guests enjoy the scenery of the rivers and the lucky ones might just be able to spot some birds of prey such as the brown kite and the snake-eating eagle.

Column of the Day

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