I've not seen the G26, but I have seen a G17 TALO. I think they take new Glocks and finish the slide with some fancy nickel-boron finish which gives it kind of a matte/bead-blasted stainless steel appearance and a built-in lubricity. More info here:

It's a unique-looking weapon, but only you can decide if the added money is worth it. Glocks are darn near rustproof as they come from the factory, so I don't think you're gaining much in that area. I do like the look, but about the time I found out about the TALO/EXO Glocks, I had just sent off a couple of my Glocks and got them finished in NP3, from Robar. More money, but I could pick and choose what I wanted to get plated. I had them do the entire slide/barrel assembly on both, but no parts from the frame. It sure makes the ported 19C easier to clean.

"Placement is power" -- seen in an article by Stephen A. Camp
(RIP, Mr. Camp; you will be remembered, and missed)

Yes, I recently put a front and rear on a Glock 17, just to try out this style of sights. They are older models, bought from a store that was going out of business, so they may not represent the latest cutting-edge technology of this style of sights, but I think most of my observations will still apply.

They are eye-grabbingly bright outdoors, or indoors under tube-type lights, but most folks who have been using them (or seen them used) on competition guns will tell you they are a bit more fragile than solid metal sights. If you drop it on the floor, once, and it hits on the sights, the sights are probably toast. If you rush a draw and bang it on a doorframe or steel chair arm or table edge, same thing. There just isn't as much metal support around the plastic tube, and the tube itself is far more fragile than a steel sight blade or a night-sight vial that is almost fully embedded in (and protected by) a steel sight blade.

Installation isn't difficult; most of the front sights are held on by a tiny hex-head screw which passes up through the bottom of the slide into the body of the sight. The hardest part is finding a thin-walled 3/16ths-inch nut driver that will clear the front wall of the slide during installation, but I understand that some companies are fixing that problem now by including an installation tool with the sights. Use a tiny dab of LocTite or other "screw glue" to keep it from loosening, and make sure it's square to the rear sight (it is possible to get it slightly crooked/angled, and you don't want the adhesive to harden with it that way), then let it set-up for a day or so before you shoot it.

If you don't want to tackle it yourself, and you have any kind of half-talented gunsmith in your area, s/he should be able to do it in 30-60 minutes. Sometimes vendors at gun shows will put them on while you wait, for a small up-charge.

"Placement is power" -- seen in an article by Stephen A. Camp
(RIP, Mr. Camp; you will be remembered, and missed)

Smith & Wesson will make up "exclusives" for any distributor willing to order 5,000 guns. Talo has been doing this for a long time. Back in the early 1980s I bought a "limited edition" S & W stainless steel model 29 in .44 magnum. It featured a round butt (not available in their regular line) and a 2-1/2" barrel (also not available) and a finger grip wood grip. It looked really nice and the pretense was that it would retain its value better because of the exclusivity.

But it turned out to be a very popular model and shortly thereafter S & W added it to its regular line. Gone was the exclusivity.

So if you like the features and the price seems fair, then go ahead an buy it. But as a potential investment...not such a good idea.