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LAT9416AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LAT9416AAE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Drained the tank. Pulled the front cover of washer. Pulled the lower cover of dryer. Pulled the top cover of washer. Pulled the mounting case for switch. Pulled the wires to switch. Pulled the switch. Installed switch and reversed the steps in order.

leaking from bottom

searched on line for the part.you guys had a very informative video looked how simple it was i purchased the part i needed and the rest was history thanks you guys are great saved me around 140.00 bucks. for about 15 minutes worth of work

The larger switch of the lid switch assembly broke. The washer would not perform any function that required that the lid be closed.

The 4 countersunk phillips head screws that retain the control panel were removed allowing access to the lid switch assembly. I took a picture of the switch assembly to record wire location with my phone. The one screw that retains the switch assembly was removed after all of it's associated wires were removed. The old switch was removed and the new switch installed. Problem solved.

routine preventative belt replacement

Love these older machines... Easy simple and straightforward. Lay the product front up on a small 2 X 4. Remove front cover, (two phillips head screws near bottom). reach under hand roll off both belts,, check belt numbers to ensure old belt numbers with new belts. Rolled on new belts, checked tension, per enclosed note. Ajusted belt tension via the pump. replaced front cover and screws. Install unit, (be sure to level it) Time to Rock and roll.

Drain Pump was leaking

I am not going to describe the repair. The video that Part Select has on their website is exactly how our repair went. Very simple. This is the second time we have used Part Select. They have saved us a lot of money on repairmen or new purchases. I would definitely use them in the future. The videos are so easy to follow anybody can make the repairs. Also, the delivery company not only misdelivered the part but, they damaged it. When I called Part Select about the part being damaged, they immediately sent out a new part without any questions. Why aren't all companies this awesome?!

I watched the video and everthing went pretty well. The only problem I had was removing the Clamp Nut. My Washer is more than 10yrs. old so there is a lot of water and lime build up. I use a Cole Chisel and a Ball Pen Hammer to break the Clamp Nut. Because you can dispose of it anyway a new Clamp Nut comes with your Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit. The Tub wrench comes in handy for removing the Mounting Stem and to reseat the Mounting Stem. You are also going to need the Tub Wrench for reseating the Clamp Nut. You can order a Tub Wrench online there are various web sites.

Washer continuously filled with water

The repair took about a half an hour to complete. Finding the required tools took 5 minutes. Rusty screws slowed down the rest of the repair. My son and I did the repair. Moving the heavy washer away from the wall was probably the most difficult part. There is a small panel about 4 x 8 inches on the back top right of the washer. After unplugging the washer and turning off the hot and cold water valves at the wall, we detached the hot and cold water hoses from the washer with a pliers, carefully, as to not damage the end of the hose. They were on there very snuggly. It took a couple minutes to make sure we weren't damaging the hose. We also made sure we knew which hose went to which connection.Next we removed three screws. One screw holds the panel in place. There are two other screws on the face of the panel. These two screws hold the Water Inlet Valve in place against the panel. After the screws were removed, we jockeyed the panel and valve out of the hole.There is a hook on the Water Inlet Valve that holds the bunch of electrical wires in place. The wires need to be "unhooked" to get the valve out far enough to work on it. We then loosened the one-inch spring clamp and removed the hose that feeds the water to the washer. Then we unplugged the two electrical connections from the valve, remembering which went to which connection on the valve. Viola . . . the old part is disconnected. Now we did the opposite to put the new valve in. We plugged in the two electrical connections. Put the feeder hose back on making sure the clamp was back in the correct position to avoid leakage. P.S. Ours was rusty, you may want to have a new one on hand to replace the old one as long as you have it apart. Then, we struggled to put the two screws that hold the valve to the plate back on. Once those were on, we struggled to get the rusty screw that holds the plate in position back on. We then attached the hot and cold water back to the valve connections at the back of the washer. We then turned on the hot and cold water to make sure there was no leakage around the new valve. No Leaks at washer! We do have some leakage at the valve on the wall and are hoping it corrects itself soon. This happens with valves like this that are not turned on and off regularly.

key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.

Laundry room was beginning to fill with a very unfriendly smelling smoke. Washer sounded fine.

After unpluging cord and disconnecting hoses, I layed the washer over on its front. I simply rolled both belts off their pulleys and installed the new ones. This was easier than I thought! I gave a turn or two on both sets of pulleys to make sure something wasn't preventing the pulleys from rotating properly and all seemed to move okay. After reconnecting everything and doing a test run, I discovered that the transmission was not moving as it should and the belt was still binding. Turned out the 25+ year old transmission finally gave up! I doubt if any new washer I buy will last half that long

My washing machine stopped working during the rinse cycle and would not turn back on.

After watching the video on this website and testing the lid switch with my volt/ohm meter I figured out I had a bad lid switch. I ordered the part on Friday evening and got it on Monday. Took me 5 minutes to replace. My problem was solved. I can now add "washer repair man" to my resume. Just Kidding!

We took the back off the top where the controls are and loosened the top so we could have access to the part. It was easy to change out. The only goof we had was we didn't slide the part far enough forward the first time and the lid switch didn't engage. (fixed one problem, the washer filled but now it didn't run) As soon as we moved the switch assembly forward about a half an inch everything worked, my wife was smiling and able to wash clothes again!

Water was dripping inside the washer where water comes in to machine even when machine is off

Turn water off - Remove panel where hoses are connected and see the valve. Mark cold and hot water hoses for easier reconnect- remove old valve and replace with new one. Reconnect hoses and turn water back on. Check to be sure they are connected correctly and there are no leaks.