Morandi is, like every other Keith McNally venture, a smashing success, and likely to remain so. [NYP]

Kenny Shopsin, everybody’s favorite eccentric short-order cook, cleverly announces the imminent opening of his Essex Street Market stand with a release in the form of a maze (it alludes to the permit process). [Eater]
Related: A Taste of Kenny Shopsin [GrubStreet]

The Coffee Shop isn’t closed; it’s just another victim of an overcompensating Health Department. [Eater]

Ernest Gallo remembered as a brilliant industrialist whose mass-production approach to wine was a historical relic by the time of his death. [NYS]

Malcolm McLaren reminisces about being trained in the art of wine tasting. [NYT]