2 x 10 conversion, is it worth the cost?

Hi all,

Recently just bought a Trek Fuel Ex 8, came with a 3 x 10 setup, in probably 30 hours riding I have yet to go into the large chain ring and would have preferred 2 x 10. I don't think I have the legs for 1 x 10.

Anyways, been looking at loads of different options and it appears that the idea is a new 2 x 10 crank, derailleur and a chain device, shifters but it seems a bit expensive given the components are all new. Are there any disadvantages to simply removing the larger ring and putting a bash on there?

Re: 2 x 10 conversion, is it worth the cost?

I'm going 1x7 right now and will upgrade to 1x9 in future. Get a nice size middle ring and wide range rear cassette. That's all you need man. 38t front and 11-36rear. Do a test run and see if you can ride with out changing gears up front... Simplicity is the key.

Recently just bought a Trek Fuel Ex 8, came with a 3 x 10 setup, in probably 30 hours riding I have yet to go into the large chain ring and would have preferred 2 x 10. I don't think I have the legs for 1 x 10.

Anyways, been looking at loads of different options and it appears that the idea is a new 2 x 10 crank, derailleur and a chain device, shifters but it seems a bit expensive given the components are all new. Are there any disadvantages to simply removing the larger ring and putting a bash on there?

Anyone have any similar experience? Or ideas

You don't have to spend that much. Just remove the big ring and limit your front derailleur travel. You are 2x10 for free! Add a bash guard in place of the big ring for a few bucks and you have protection against strikes. That is how most people convert to 2x10.

I forgot to answer your question. The only advantage I can see to a dedicated 2x10 (vs. a converted 3x10) is that you can get a larger small ring and larger middle ring if you spec it that way. You may also save a few grams on the crankset. If you have never left your middle ring, I feel you would be wasting money ordering a new 2x front drivetrain.
If you limit the front derailleur travel, you can't shift past the second ring and your 3x front shifter will function just like a 2x.

Any ideas how to know what to look for size wise, I am looking to replace a 44 tooth big ring currently have 22/32/44

You mean for the bash guard? If so, the bash guard you choose will often say what it's intended for, e.g., "32 teeth max." So, if you have a 32t middle ring, you can use that bash guard. You could also get a bigger bashguard (I wouldn't get anything bigger than 36t) if you think you may want to replace the 32t ring with something bigger, so you won't need to get a new bash guard if you do. But you do lose a bit of clearance if you do that.

If your not droppig chains dont change it. I run a 30 speed and was thinking about doing a 1x or 2x setup. But why? I wouldnt gain anything. the big ring gets used maybe once every three rides but when i do its hauls ass! having 3 rings is better as long as its not giving you any problems..

We can agree to disagree. There are several step up rock ledges on National (local phx trail) that I cannot even begin to make with a 3rd ring on the bike. I hit my 32t bash on them 50% of the time though. With a 44t triple...forget even trying. Not everybody can make use of the extra clearance, many folks have no need for a dropper post, and not every trail is tailor made for a 29'rs....horses for courses.

Ditto all the "ditch the big, add a bash" comments. I converted my 3x9 to 2x9, changed the "middle" from a 32t to 36t and added a 36t MRP LRP 2x chain guide and bash. I think the total cost was ~$100 in parts.

As for what you gain, you get the mentioned clearance, as well as a shorter chain. You also have the option of running a medium cage derailleur. I still have my long cage RD, but adding the guide and shortening the chain (not very much with the longer path from the guide) means I get no chain slap even without a clutch RD.

I really don't see the point of doing one of the fairly expensive complete conversions when for $20-$50 (depending on what you choose for a bash) on a bash guard and limiting your derailleur you accomplish essentially the same thing. The only reason to do so would be to get different gearing options (bigger small and middle rings). If you like your gearing options that you have now, then I think it is pointless unless you just like to spend money.

You probly need air in the rear shock if your bash is hitting that stair case

The staircase climb to left has been accomplished by very few (in my presence). It's just too choppy and requires almost trials like skills, or at least very very good slow balance skills. The line up (still accomplished by very few vs. total amount of riders) is the step up on the right hand side of the pic. It's difficult to tell since the depth is not captured on film (CCD's?) very well but it's quite a loft just to get the front wheel up onto the rock, then the hard part begins.

One more rec for losing the big ring and adding a bash. You might want to consider going with a bigger middle ring before you buy a bash for the size you already have. However, the fact that you say you never use the big ring indicates that 32t is big enough for you.

As far as what you will gain, the biggest and most important advantage to me is being able to run a shorter chain which means fewer dropped chains and generally better performance when things get rough.

The extra clearance is nice, but as far as that goes, I think the fact that the ring is smooth (rather than a sprocket) is just as important as it being smaller.

I don't know the cost of conversion (my newest bike came set up as a 2x10), but I love my 2x10. Besides the extra clearance, the chain roller is one of the best parts. Never (and I mean not once in 2 years) drop a chain anymore, and it is nice and quiet on the descents. I also don't spike my calf with the big ring should I get tangled up with the bike.

I swapped out the big gear on my EX8 using a bash guard, but have found that I run out of gear pretty easy...does anyone know what the shimano part number is for a 34 or 36T middle ring on an XT crank set? Or is there a compatible aftermarket brand that would be a direct bolt on?

This all seems confusing, I would love to have run a full chainguide, but it just seems overly expensive and a bit of a faff, would there be much advantage given I ride mainly trails and now much super steep downhill