Framing Basement Ceiling

I have a question for anyone out there:
I am going to frame out for a finished basement in a new house. They had a 10' pour on the foundation so the floor joists are at 10'. They only want an 8' drywall ceiling in this basement. My questions are: What is the best way to frame out the ceiling for the drywall, since the present joists are at 10' and I'm only going up 8' with walls. In addition How will I support the walls as well. Hope I explained myself thoroughly.

Thanks,
Jerry

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Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

Not sure what you mean by supporting the walls too. I would think just dropping a 2x6 ceiling would be fine. The CJ's would rest on top of the walls that you build. I would say that you could just use 2x4's and connect the 2x4's to the FJ's, but I think maybe over time, they would have more tendency to squeak.

Be warned though, by code, you need draft stopping. Anywhere where you have a ledger against an existing 10' wall. Basically wrapping the whole top part with 1/2" ply or something the inspector deems allowable. What you are essentially creating is a plenum. I would think in a fire, introducing oxygen would make that one hell of a fire ball.

They may even make you use fire rated on the ceilings that you are creating. I personally would like 9' ceilings.

What's going to be the function of the basement when you get done?

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

I see a couple of ways to approach this.
1:Frame the walls and frame ceiling as if there is nothing else around them. Just regular framing with stud walls and joists. The joists might be able to be undersized because the only load is that of the ceiling drywall but someday someone will be crawling around up there to fix something. That's something to check on though.

2: Frame the walls and use steel hat track(furring channel) suspended from the floor joists to apply the drywall to.You'll probably need more access points for any piped areas and electrical junctions up there.

Probably lots of other ways as well.

Typing too slow, rats.

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Ignorance is cureable, stupidity is forever.

Last edited by Old Grumpy; 10-04-2010 at 12:26 PM.
Reason: all covered

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

The basement will be a rec room and bathroom. The cost is the reason they want lower ceilings. Makes me wonder why they spent the money on the 10' pour. I've always done 8' walls on 8' ceilings.
Therefore the top plate nails directly to the floor joists. If the floor joists are 10' high and I'm only going up 8', how do I support the walls. In addition, would I have frame the ceiling down to accommodate the drywall. If so, what would be the best way.
Thanks,

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

Thanks for all the help so far from everyone. I have a question for Framerman. What would be the proper way to drop a 2X6 down for the ceiling. Would I scab vertical 2X4's on the floor joists, and then attach the 2X6 to the scabs and let rest on the top plate of the walls.

There is one other thing that puzzles me. Isn't the purpose of the 10' pour to allow you to have all the HVAC hidden. So when you drywall the ceiling, don't you have to frame it down to the level of the HVAC so your drywall goes straight across instead of framing a soffet around the HVAC ducts.

If this were my basement, I would just put the drywall as high as I could, but this isn't mine so I don't have that luxury.

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

I agree with you Cookcarpentry. Seems it would be much cheaper. they talked about not wanting to heat and cool that extra area. But I think since it is a basement, they are heating and cooling it anyhow. There won't be any insulation in the ceiling. But you can't convince some people of that.

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

First price it out both ways.

I don't really understand how the customer could think it was cheaper when you have to build a ceiling under one that is already there. Show the customer the prices both ways and find out if the reason they want the lower ceiling is because of price or they want the ceilings to be flat instead of soffits around ductwork, etc. And yes they will be heating that area either way.

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

If it is all about costs, then what some have said before is a better option than what I said. 8' high 2x4 walls and suspended ceiling with fire tiles. They are most definitely heating that area between 8' and 10'.

If you have floating walls, you would just get some strapping to tie to a floor joist or girder...anything that doesn't move too easy. Once the dropped ceiling is gridded out, it will stay.

If you are going with 2x's for the ceiling and are going to tie them to the FJ's, you can just use 2x4's. You won't need 2x6's. It would make me just slightly worried that the connections would squeak after a few years of movement. It's probably nothing, too paranoid. You could even go 24" OC as long as you get some ceiling board.

You may be required to use fire rated like I said before. You are making it a livable area, so check with your CEO about your requirements. I would assume you are going to need it. Thus 5/8" fire rated you could go with 24" centers on your ceiling framing...if you are going to go that way. Suspended ceiling would still probably be much cheaper. Plus you will be able to get access to the ductwork.

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Re:
Framing Basement Ceiling

As everyone has stated you need to have fire stop the ceiling & walls. I have built a few basements in my time so i have plenty of info to offer.You must provide 1 hour vertical & horizontal fire stop “Horizontal fire stop“ Look in the pics provided; I install ¾” plywood from the wall face to the concrete wall. It doesn’t matter if your ceiling is 7’ or 12’ the fire stop must be built this way to prevent passage behind your walls.You also must provide vertical fir stop every 10’ from floor to ceiling.I always recommend drop ceiling tiles to the customer if they want a lower ceiling. It makes it easier to access plumbing & mechanics in the ceiling. If the customer wants sheetrock, be sure to explain that access panels must be provided to all shut off valves, junction boxes etc. depending on how many access points you need will dictate the option, you don’t want to look up and see access covers sprawled across the ceiling

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