It takes a woman with some mega-moxie to create, start up and drive around in a blazing hot pink food truck. Slinging tacos while navigating the strict rules and regulations that govern food trucks in Boulder certainly couldn't have been an easy undertaking. But re-entering the restaurateur realm for a third time after an already successful run at both Proto's Pizza and Mateo's, well, that's just a special kind of heroism/crazy that can be truly appreciated only by others in the biz.

If the lines to get into Comida Cantina, the magenta-meals-on-wheels-taco-truck-turned-brick-and-mortar-restaurant are any indication, Rayme Rossello's hard work and psychosis is paying off.

On each occasion I've dined at Comida, I've seen Rayme at the helm. Although I've spoken with Rayme only to arrange a photo shoot for this review, I -- a former restaurant owner myself -- feel a special sort of kinship with her as I watch her move about the restaurant with laser-pointed focus: attending to guests and staff, slinging plates, seating patrons and solving problems. In her tight-jawed, furrowed brow and pursed-lip expression, I recognize what others might construe as irascibility to be the look of concentration and determination, two keys to running a successful restaurant.

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During a lull in the action, I see her smile at a guest who, in passing, has just praised the guacamole. We add it to the "to order" list and continue making our selections for the night on the paper menu using a mini-golf mini-pencil. Comida is not like other Mexican joints. You won't get a platter of seasoned rice and a ladleful of refried beans that oozes into your chicken enchilada/chile rellenos combo here. Comida's menu is instead based on Mexican street food -- but epicureously elevated on up over the curb.

After remarking about how festive, fun and fitting the restaurant is as an extension of their brand, I was told by our exuberant server that it was a turnkey operation. I don't know the Spanish word for the Hebrew "beshert," but by looking at the restaurant, you'd know it was meant to be. The existing chairs from the previous tenant were even hot pink. Colorful blown glass pendant lighting, brown wood tables and a two-tiered bar add interest to the cheerful, funky space.

Having sipped and loved the watermelon jalapeno margarita before, I chose it again, even though they have an inventive and varied cocktail menu. I have to caution you here, as Comida infuses its own jalapeno tequila, and the pendulum of piquant-ness swings broadly on the Scoville scale of spicy. Depending on the batch, one mini-mason jar of this cocktail can either be a zesty tongue tantalizer one day, or set fire to your entire esophagus and GI tract the next. Forewarned is forearmed.

Other drawbacks here are few, but they do exist, mostly during off hours. Stick to standard meal times, when the kitchen and wait staff are in the swing of things, to avoid any minor meltdowns with food or service. If you're dining with children who are picky eaters, the absence of a kids menu could make dining here a challenge, as there isn't much here I'd ever describe as plain or basic, though personally, I consider this a plus.

I apologized to my honey in advance for the odiferous aura I was going to exude later in the evening after sampling the fresh and lively yet overzealously garlicked guacamole. As someone who adores garlic, I ate the majority of the dip with a spoon as I consistently find the tortilla chips to be unpleasantly greasy, my only major gripe with Comida.

We ordered a variety of tacos, griddled tacos, tostadas and gorditas. Selections arrive on a communal platter similar to how you'd receive a sushi sampler. A simple cut of each item with your knife facilitates sharing and sampling of each selection. Don't miss the bacon and jalapeno griddled taco (just as it sounds) or the chorizo gordita (rich nuggets of crumbled sausage in a thick handmade masa pocket slathered with garlic mashed potatoes. Take that same heavenly garlic mash, spread it on an open-faced crispy tortilla and cover it with mushrooms steeped in mezcal and you get the "sombra shrooms" vegetarian tostada, a suggested go-to selection for meat lovers and vegetarians alike. Somewhere in the haze of cotija cheese, crema and pineapple habanero salsa, we also tried tacos featuring carnitas, sirloin, skirt steak, roasted poblanos, pulled chicken, fish and shrimp. All were eaten and enjoyed, meat and veggie selections outshining those from the sea. If trying to choose, I'd suggest about seven to eight items to share between two people, six if you're ordering a side or two, such as beans and rice, sweet potato and smoked gouda mash, or orange/jalapeno slaw.

Desserts are made in-house. If they feature their Mexican wedding or chile chocolate chip cookies, do not resist. Brunch on Sunday is especially especial.

I'd put their huevos rancheros on a best-of list if there were one. Green chilaquiles and Mexican chocolate pancakes are also magnifico. Wash it all down with their sangria-based bloody Mary or Maria, and you've got yourself a weekending meal worthy of a Wow!

Many restaurants in Boulder County have talent in their kitchen, and Comida is no exception. But Comida has what many of those other restaurants seem to lack -- an enthusiastic staff, led by a seasoned, professional owner who has the wherewithal and hands-on dedication to get it done. And done very well, indeed.

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