THE VALLEY OF WORDS

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

If it isn’t
naked Hindutva, the government seems to be hell-bent in promoting vicious neo-liberalism.
In a joint policy-decision by the Ministry of Tourism, the Ministry of Culture,
and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), the government envisages
corporate participation in the maintenance of India’s heritage sites, including
natural heritage sites like Assam’s Kaziranga
National Park. Many iconic world heritage monuments
in India will be put up for ‘adoption’. Private companies and individuals, and
public sector undertakings now will be able to manage particular monuments through
the ‘Adopt a Heritage’ scheme.

As claimed by
the government, the ‘Adopt a Heritage’ scheme is designed for increasing tourism
revenue. All heritage sites currently under the scheme are ostensibly selected
on the basis of “tourist footfalls and visibility”. Indeed, the vision
of the scheme gives prime importance to the development of “tourist amenities”,
like toilet facilities, drinking water, and flow of traffic as its main
objectives. The government claims that the revenues generated will be ploughed
back for the upkeep of the same monuments. This is a rather bizarre claim as
most of these monuments are already generating large
revenues from tourist footfalls – such as the
Red Fort in Delhi – and there seems to be is no reason to increase the
popularity of these sites amongst the tourist. One can surmise, therefore, that
the reasons for promoting this scheme lie elsewhere: to increase the
privatization of heritage tourism.

Being in Goa and
suffering from the excessive and unregulated tourist footfalls should make us
see red when a scheme like ‘Adopt a Heritage’ is promoted. Goa doesn’t need
more tourist footfalls, but less. Moreover, the idea that
generating more income from increased footfalls would help in the
restoration/conservation efforts is self-destructive. More tourist footfalls
mean that there is an increasing pressure on old monuments leading
to faster deterioration. One cannot fix the
present condition of deterioration by creating a situation in the future that
will deteriorate the monument further. Similar to what is happening with the
rest of Goa, schemes like ‘Adopt a Heritage’ will only accelerate the
destruction of Goa’s natural and built heritage and Goans will lose access to
their heritage and history.

Apart from the
pressures being exerted due to tourism revenues, the ‘Adopt a Heritage’ scheme seems
not to be in consonance with the existing heritage laws that regulate and
protect monuments and sites. What I particularly refer to is the legal aspect
of how the ASI has to interface with the local bodies and owners in not only
maintaining monuments but also displaying them as world heritage sites or sites
of national importance. The Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and
Remains Act, 1958, empower the ASI to control and conserve monuments, such as
the Basilica of Bom Jesus under their care. This law provides for two parties
to enter into a contractual guardianship – the owner(s) and ASI. The nature of
this guardianship is such that the control of the ASI is not absolute; the
guardianship is formed on such a basis that the original owner is entitled to
all rights and privileges as an owner as if the guardianship was never
constituted with the ASI. Add to this is the fact that churches in Old Goa are
also UNESCO world heritage sites.

In itself this
provision, as it is framed, creates a legal grey area: who has control over
what aspects of the monument? This was clearly visible in 2011 when the ASI and
the Archdiocese sparred
over whether or not to impose dress code for the visiting tourists. Both sides
claimed that they had the right to the monument – the ASI asserted its role as
a care-taker authorized by the central government and the Archdiocese argued
from its position as the owner of the monument. In any case, the abovementioned
Act provides for non-obstruction in religious worship; the dress code is
imposed to maintain the sanctity of the church as it is a place where Catholics
worship. And yet there was friction between the parties, whether born out of
ignorance of the law/rules or plain arrogance is a story for another day.

And now to add a
third party – private corporates/individuals and public sector companies –
without any clarity of how all these three parties will interface with each
other is to create more confusion. Imagine if the corporate company feels that
the Basilica of Bom Jesus should be ticketed, since it will generate good
revenue for its upkeep – perhaps one would have to purchase a ticket to attend
mass! For the problem with involving private companies is that these are driven
by profit and the vision and aims of the private companies more often than not are
detrimental for public good.

Specifically in
relation to the Goan scenario when the legal and contractual basis of the
partnership is not clear, the Goa government, the ASI, and the Archdiocese has to
first clarify what is the legal basis for this move and not make hasty
decisions – whether opting for the scheme or not. That the government is
seeking private partnership for providing such basic facilities as
toilets and safe drinking water reflects badly on the ASI – the institution set
up to do just this and many other important things. More than generating
revenue out of the monumental heritage, it is imperative that these structures
and sites are conserved
and/or preserved for their historical and cultural
value.

Having studied Ancient Indian History and Archaeology I have moved on to a Masters in Medieval History at JNU, New Delhi. This blog is started to get all my published articles (since 2006) which appeared in GOA PLUS, GOMANTAK TIMES, AMCHO AVAZ, O HERALDO, GULAB and elsewhere 'under one roof'.
I write to keep sane.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

This year’s Goa
Board examinations witnessed many HSSC
and SSC
students complain that the physics and science
question papers respectively were too tough. Many parents and students wrote
letters in the press, pleading with the Goa Board officials to be lenient
during evaluation. The anxiety that students and parents shared alike was so
much that it also resulted in an online
petition.

Such complaints
about exams being too tough or questions being framed “out of the syllabus” are
not at all new. In fact repeated
pleas for leniency come from students who mostly
attend private and expensive schools (in Goa it is generally aided private
schools), and who are provided with the best of facilities. Contrast this with
the public schooling system which is in doldrums; the largely poor students who
attend such schools don’t make such demands. Across India, good schools are
generally private ones whether they are aided or not by the government. These
demands for leniency – largely for science and professional subjects – expose
the serious problems with the educational system in the country and the state’s
failure to provide equal and fair education. In the end, it also exposes the
hollowness of the idea of ‘merit’ as a yardstick to measure academic
excellence.

Through the
whole period of schooling one finds very few parents demanding better quality
of education. Rather than demanding proper changes, one finds that students and
parents in fact suffer through bad schooling systems. Some prefer private (and
expensive) schools as alternatives, which are often considered better for
non-academic reasons. Despite there never being a sustained demand for better
public schools, parents still expect their kids to excel academically and will
go to any lengths to achieve this. To give the best to one’s children is not
wrong; the problem emerges when only those with means can afford decent
schooling facilities. The consequences will be serious as good educational
facilities are intimately linked to a better society.

The pleas for
leniency rest on deep fears that a difficult question paper will affect a
candidate’s chances of qualifying for reputed professional and technical
colleges. The petition
circulated by students in Goa was similarly concerned
with “percentages and careers”. We know that there are thousands of ‘middle
class’ parents
across India who spend lakhs on coaching classes so
that their children will have access to these professional colleges and the job
market. Indeed, the proliferation of expensive private schools and coaching
centers not only bestow prestige on the students and parents who are able to
afford it, but also ensures that high paying jobs only go to the privileged
folk.

This is
precisely what the periodic hue and cry regarding tough question papers
confirm: the complaints are not about the miserable system of education, but are
about the anxious feelings amongst parents and students for losing out on individual
success and personal gain. The logic seems to be frustratingly simple: nothing
matters except that the student cracks the exam. And why not, since the whole
education system is oriented towards cracking an exam – it is worse for
technical courses whereby colleges and coaching centers train one to answer one
typical question paper that guarantees results. A slightly unusual question
paper – fairly or not – causes panic as children are not encouraged to think
independently, critically, and to have sound awareness of the world around them.

Which brings us
to the question of merit. The access to expensive and exclusive
technical/professional colleges is intimately connected to the idea of merit,
as it recognizes only individual success in professional/science courses which
are valued over the rest. This is the obsession of the elites who identify as
‘middle class Indians’ and those that aspire to this class mobility through
their children’s success. Hence this merit can generally be achieved by only
those with the financial means and caste/class networks.

The inadequate
availability of publicly-funded, fair, and equal education and the simultaneous
promotion of merit and cutthroat competition is one of the causes for the
rising inequalities in India. The intense competition that private schools,
teachers, coaching centers, and parents promote not only lead to narrow career
choices being valued, but it also makes education extremely expensive for a
large chunk of the population. This would eventually lead to inequalities in
accessing the job market as well. Which is why, any idea of merit and academic
excellence celebrated and promoted during the time of board exams, and after results
are declared, ring hollow.

I do not want to
deny that Goa hasn’t witnessed any demands for a better schooling system. Movements
like that of FORCE
– Forum for Rights of Children to Education – that demanded better facilities
for all gives us hope for a better future. The movement championed by parents
who could not afford expensive private education, demanded that the government
support English as a medium of instruction as this would help their children to
access better jobs. The movement also rested on the fact that government or
public schools – where most of the poor people were forced to send their
children – were ill-equipped to impart any decent skills that would be useful
in later life. But the full potential of the movement has not yet been
realized.

In many ways it
appears that Indian society, riddled with considerable inequalities, hasn’t
learned to exist in communion with the less fortunate other. This is why, time
and again, one hears calls for leniency in evaluation during examinations, when
in fact one should have demanded a better education system and facilities.

Having studied Ancient Indian History and Archaeology I have moved on to a Masters in Medieval History at JNU, New Delhi. This blog is started to get all my published articles (since 2006) which appeared in GOA PLUS, GOMANTAK TIMES, AMCHO AVAZ, O HERALDO, GULAB and elsewhere 'under one roof'.
I write to keep sane.

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

In
the popular imagination, Goan history generally begins with the arrival of the
Portuguese, followed by conquest and religious conversions. This
four-and-a-half-century long period contains periods of oppression and cultural
efflorescence, but mostly unbridled oppression. However, this changes once the
Indian army marches into Goa in December 1961, leading Goa and its people, from
the centuries-long darkness that they suffered, into the light of unfettered
freedom. What the average Goan knows about this narrative is filtered through
the lenses of a good amount of political machinations, besides family lore and myth.
These unreliable and fragmented memories lead to a skewed understanding of Goan
history and identity. The hold of this narrative is so complete that one finds
it pervading in all walks of Goan life. Using Kalidas Mhamal’s installation
“Caste Thread”, this essay will talk about the popular narrative of Goan
history and its tenacious hold on the people of Goa.

Mhamal’s
exhibit is currently on display at the Museum of Goa and was also exhibited in
“Now you see it!: The invisible river of Konkani Surrealism”, curated by Vivek
Menezes as part of the Serendipity Arts Festival in December 2017. “Caste
Thread” consists of a series of five mannequin torsos, hung on five separate
wooden blocks. Each of these five torsos has a janave, with a key hung
on it. The janave, known in
Hindi as janeu,is the caste thread that Brahmin and savarna
men wear across their chests, as a sign and privilege of their high birth.
Along with the janave, each of the torsos has the rosary around their
necks. These torsos also have a symbol or motif painted on them: from left to
right, Goan pork sausages, a lit match-stick, a pão, a band-aid, and a glass of
red wine. The wooden blocks from which the torsos are hung also display a set
of names, Hindu and Christian, which suggests a transition from one religion to
another.

Mhamal’s
“Caste Thread” thus evokes a period of Goan history that witnessed the
establishment of Portuguese sovereignty over parts of present day Goa, and the
conversion of Brahmins, amongst others from various castes, to Christianity. The
message from the artwork is clear: caste privileges did not disappear with the
change in religion. However, the imagery deployed in the artwork to make this
point is problematic; perhaps, even going against the very point that the
artwork seeks to make.

■

If
we keep the janave and the rosary beads aside, what we are confronted
with is the use of food imagery. This, I believe, is crucial as rather than just
evoking a history of religious conversions, this artwork brings to the fore
issues of caste through commensality, and notions of purity and pollution. Within
a Brahmanical worldview, interchangeable with the Hindu, certain foods are
considered to be impure and thus are forbidden. These foods depicted by Mhamal
are not only considered impure, but also foreign, or were created through the
intermingling of foreign influences with local ones. Their impurity also
results out of their foreignness, in the sense that these foods were not
allowed to be consumed in a caste society at the time of their arrival in the
subcontinent.

Though
Goan cuisine may have evolved from many cultural influences, the consumption of
meat was not alien to pre-Portuguese society in Goa. Indeed, non-upper-caste
groups did consume beef and pork and even dominant caste groups consumed
venison and wild boar; animal sacrifices, in which the meat was consumed by the
participants, also took place in various shrines across the territory of Goa,
both before, during, and after the arrival of the Portuguese.

The
foods depicted in Mhamal’s “Caste Thread” today are not just an intrinsic part
of the cuisine and culture of Catholics in Goa, but are considered by even
other Goans as distinctly ‘Goan’. It is true that many Hindus and also Goan
Muslims may not consume the fiery choriço (sausages); however, the pãois consumed across social
and religious groups in contemporary Goa. To this extent, the pão can well
qualify to be Goa’s ‘national’ food, whether one eats it stuffed with pork
sausages or a beef cutlet, or dips it in a spicy prawn or vegetable or lentil curry.
But, even if the pão is ubiquitous in every Goan home and street corner today, this
was not necessarily the case in the past. Historian Fatima de Silva Gracias suggests
that owing to the fact that most of the bakers in Goa were Christian and palm
toddy being used instead of yeast for fermenting the dough, many Hindus in earlier
times would not have consumed it. They would have avoided the “Mediterranean
trilogy” of meat, bread, and wine – as indeed Mhamal depicts in his
installation.

Like
the pão that came into Goa and became Goan, Roman Catholicism too arrived
through the same ‘foreign’ route. Therefore, it is not surprising that Roman
Catholicism was (and is) also treated as a polluting influence by all those who
lived (and continue to live) within the caste system. Thus, the Konkani/Marathi
word in Goa for describing the processes of a person embracing Roman
Catholicism is the same one used to describe caste-based pollution: bhattlo or
bhatta-bhatti – to come in touch with pollution. Conversion as
understood within Christian doctrine or in the lexicons of modern European
languages is not the same as bhattlo and bhatta-bhatti. Indeed,
many Catholics in Goa often use the Portuguese-derived Konkani word, konverter
to talk about religious conversion, though it is also quite common to hear
Catholics using bhattlo to refer to the same.

In
this context, the theologian Victor Ferrao analyzes the contemporary identity
crisis in Goa and how it emerges out of a caste-based reading of Goan history.
His book, Being a Goan Christian: The Politics of Identity, Rift and
Synthesis (2011), talks about how some “of our Hindu brethren appear to
understand the [Portuguese] colonial period as an era of pollution and the
Goans who converted as the polluted”. The purity-pollution principle becomes
the main lens through which this part of Goan history is understood, to the
extent that it leads to a politics wherein the Goan Christian – already marked
as polluted owing to food habits and religious conversion – “is assigned a
social space and is rendered as an ‘outsider’ in his/her own home”.

Mhamal’s
artwork not only indicates the intersection of food and pollution, but also
that of caste and gender. The references in “Caste Thread” of food items
prohibited within the caste system and masculine bodies indicate a particular
reading of Indian history. In this context, we can think about the
vegetarianism that was promoted during the Indian nationalist movement against
the British Raj as well as its legacy in our contemporary times. Indeed,
vegetarianism and its links to the emerging Hindutva politics are well-known. The
cow-protection movements that emerged in the nineteenth century, and its
subsequent recognition as a directive principle in the Constitution of India
and in the statute books of many State governments, is a good example of this
continuum. We can also think of M. K. Gandhi and the anxieties he had growing
up about the weakness of his body. In his autobiography, he writes about how he
felt that the consumption of goat’s meat – like the Muslims living in his
village did – was essential for a strong body. It is, however, a different
matter that he later espoused vegetarianism as essential for body and soul.

In
depicting chiseled bodies with the janave strung across, Mhamal is
actually referencing Brahmin bodies that in all likelihood wouldn’t have been
toned, as the Brahmin body did not have to perform manual labour; it was
performed by subaltern castes for them. There are stories in Goa about Brahmins
wearing their puddvem (dhoti) above their knees, indicating that they
labored in the fields. Even if it is true, it is an exception to the rule. Thus,
by referencing masculine bodies Mhamal’s artwork effectively has shut avenues
to think of an alternate narrative of history of early modern Goa involving the
intersection of caste, gender, and labour.

The
main point is that within a masculine Indian/Hindu nationalism consumption of
certain foods is associated with anxieties of the male body. It is also
well-known that these anxieties that savarna Hindu men had about the weakness
of the bodies, during colonial times and particularly during the national
movement, translated into a politics of recovering not just the body politic
but also the physical body from colonial domination and humiliation, or what
they felt to be domination and humiliation. In Goa, this line of thought can
also be linked to weakness of the body and the soul that savarnas arrogated to
themselves, with conversion to Christianity added in the mix. When this savarna
Indian/Hindu understanding is superimposed (or simply imposed) on Goan
history, it results in an understanding that the cataclysmic violence had led
to the destruction of the body and soul of the Goan, making them weak and
subjugated to foreign rule.

Like
the savarna Indian, the savarna Goan too had to recover his culture, his
history, his self from foreign domination. T. B. Cunha, a pro-India nationalist
from Goa, had even claimed that this had led to mental slavery and
“denationalisation” of the Goan. The body and soul – thus the self – of the
savarna Goan had to be recovered from foreign subjugation and depredation. In
this scheme of things one is required to discontinue all those cultural
practices that resulted out of the foreign, impure period of Goan history.

■

Apart
from depicting prohibited food, how else does Mhamal’s artwork invoke the
history of conversions? It does through the obvious reference to the
Inquisition. Interestingly, Mhamal also suggests a way out of this painful
episode of Goan history. The motif of the lit match-stick can be considered to
be a representation of the fires of the Inquisition, and the band-aid
representing a healing of these wounds which resulted from conversions. It can
be said that Mhamal is trying to tweak the conventional narrative of the
religious conversions in Goa by suggesting that old wounds can be healed (and
they must!). However, it is assuming that everyone in the past was wounded by
religious conversions. Moreover, Mhamal’s artwork operates within the memory-based
‘history’ of religious conversions in Goa during the Portuguese period. This
family- and memory-based approach (rather than archival) to the history of Goa
is frequently employed by many writers.

Maria
Aurora Couto’s much-celebrated Goa, a Daughter’s Story (2004) confronts
the history of religious conversions, while telling the story of Goa. Couto
tells us that her search for the development of the Goan identity “must go
through the flux of memory”. The approach here is to tell the stories
circulating in one’s own family and that of other “representative families” and
generalize it as the history and experience of Goa. Led by the belief
that Goan society is inherently harmonious, she searches for an answer to the
rather mysterious development, according to her, of Goan society: how is there
communal harmony in contemporary Goa (by and large) when there was so much
violence in the past? Couto’s search is useful for our purposes because she
acknowledges that her identity and that of the family as Goans was always
marked by them being Christians. Growing up, it was natural to Couto and
everyone else around her that the Catholic religion was an intrinsic part of
her identity. It was much later, she tells us, with the emergence of the new Indian
nation-state that she had to confront her identity as a Goan Christian. “My
family has been Christian for several centuries,” she says, “living peacefully
in a society in which various forms of religious worship are an inextricable
dimension if not the very foundation of most lives. I have never thought of
myself as a convert, nor did my parents, grandparents and members of their
community”.

And
it is true that most Goan Christians do not view themselves as ‘converts’
because they are not. They have not converted from their original faith. The
swashbuckling singer of the Konkani stage (or tiatrs,as they are
popularly known), Francis de Tuem, even wrote and sang a song making this point
in reaction to contemporary Hindutva politics. However, Indian/Hindu
nationalist politics, which has had several anti-conversion laws enacted in
India, insists on viewing Christians as ‘converts’, and conversion itself as a
crime.Many Christians in India thus find
themselves in the crosshairs of Indian/Hindu nationalist politics discussed
above. And once in, they find no way out.

Many
upper caste Christians, in fact, contributed to the problem. They saw their own
caste roots in the emerging nationalist politics in India and the Indian/Hindu
culture through which it was articulated. In this politics they assumed that conversion
to Christianity had snapped their ties to their primordial culture and
religion. Through Indian nationalism they felt they could recover this lost
heritage. While going back to their supposed original religion was out of the
question, the Christian upper caste started reconciling their Christian
identity and faith to that of Indian/Hindu culture. The Christian elite
realized that their engagement with the Indian/Hindu culture had to be
performative in nature. Thus, the wearing of the sari/kurta pyjamas, a Nehru
jacket, and a Gandhi topi, and extolling the glories of ancient Indian
culture in speech and writing were ways in which they aligned with the Hindu
dominant castes, now in power with the end of the British Raj.

The
problem of reconciling Goan culture, particularly Goan Christian culture, to
norms and forms of Brahmanical culture can best be seen in the claims and
actions of the noted Goan cartoonist, the late Mario Miranda. His understanding
of Goan history and culture was very poor, which was in marked contrast to the
brilliance he displayed with his lines. His funeral perhaps can be taken as symbolic
of how upper caste Goan Christians tried to reconcile their Christian identity
with Hindu culture. As per Miranda’s wishes, the funeral mass was followed by
the cremation of his mortal remains in a Hindu crematorium. (Interestingly, it
is considered perfectly acceptable for Catholics to cremate their mortal
remains anywhere provided the ashes are not scattered). The writer Mario Cabral
e Sa has quoted
Miranda claiming that his ancestors were Hindus and Brahmins. “I am a Saraswati
Brahmin, originally named Sardessai. My ancestors were forcibly converted to
Christianity around 1600 and renamed Miranda. We still belong to the Shanta
Durga temple and yearly present Prasad – oil and a bag of rice – a tradition in
my family all these years”.

Apart
from the openly supremacist claims of Miranda, the quote also demonstrates that
Miranda is aware of his caste privilege and would like to highlight it. The
justification for highlighting his upper caste heritage is precisely the
persecution his family faced. But something in this account does not add up:
persecution did not mean an absolute loss of privilege. Though there may have
been trying times for his family, yet their caste privileges – the essence of
Hinduism, from an Ambedkarite perspective – were left intact four centuries
after facing conversion and violence.

Like
Miranda claiming persecution in the past, Rajdeep Sardesai’s shameless
defense following his infamous tweet of
‘Saraswat pride’ too claimed that his community was persecuted, and thrived
despite all odds. This skewed narrative of conversions to Christianity is an
industry that produces victimhood for the savarnas, a point ably made by Gaurav
Somwanshi in his riposte
to Sardesai. Miranda’s claims of his family’s persecution, even if true, feed
into this savarna fiction of producing themselves as the biggest victims of
colonialism and imperialism, even though the subaltern castes had to bear the
greatest brunt of colonial oppression. In fact, as new research has
demonstrated, colonial oppression was predicated on the collusion of local
elites who stood on the shoulders and profited from the labour of various
subaltern caste persons in South Asia.

Mhamal
juxtaposes Hindu names (assumed to be pre-conversion) with Christian names:
Prabhu-Pinto, Laxman-Lucas, Damodar-Domnic, Mhabal-Manuel, Ram-Rejinald (sic,
Reginald). One could think of this depiction as simplistic as it is not so much
the first names that become (and were) a bone of contention, but the surnames. After
conversion the neo-converts would receive a new name, a European or Iberian
one, free from any caste markers or caste-based occupations. Many Catholics,
who later tried to search for their pre-Christian identity, do highlight their
surnames – as Miranda did. What they are looking for, thus, was not so much
their identity or family history, but a confirmation of their caste status.

One
of the gaping holes within the narrative of the elites in Goa is their failure
to explain why, despite the large scale persecution they allege, their caste
privileges, including access to land ownership amongst others, have been left
intact. One observes, by and large, that it is mostly elite Christians who are
obsessed with their Hindu heritage and the reconciliation of this heritage with
a history of conversion to Christianity. This is not the experience of the mass
of Goans, who do not belong to the savarna and elites classes. In fact,
reconciliation with Hindu culture for the Christians hailing from bahujan
classes means that they are drawn into ever deeper labyrinths of casteism.

Although
the Hindu and Christian elites may be the ones to propagate the narrative of
the wholesale violence of the body and soul in early modern Goa, it must be
noted that this narrative is the ‘go to’ explanation for many others in Goa. Unfortunately,
we can observe persons from the bahujan classes peddling these myths as well.

I
had an interesting experience once in a remote village of Goa, some years back.
Those who know a bit of Goan history would be aware of the difference between
the Velhas Conquistas and the Novas Conquistas – the Old and New Conquests. The
territories that formed part of the Old Conquests were the earliest to be
conquered by the Portuguese; consequently they were the earliest ones to
experience conversion to Christianity as well as the brutalities of the
Inquisition. By contrast the territories of the New Conquests were slowly added
in the latter half of the eighteenth century, and the Portuguese state, and the
Church in Goa by this time was not interested in proselytizing; in fact it
assured and made good of their assurances that the non-Christian peoples in the
New Conquests would not face any religious interferences.

The
remote village in question is situated in the New Conquests, and the surrounding
area until a few decades ago would have been covered by dense forest. The
village, along with others in the area, would not have been accessible easily
and was the frontier of Goa during Portuguese rule. In fact, this village can
be considered remote even by the standard of most Goans living in towns and
cities today! We had stopped at a small teashop that exuded rustic charm. One amongst
us was a sociologist who started chatting with the owner of the shop, while the
owner’s wife was kindly making us some tea. The owner belonged to one of the
bahujan classes; we could easily know this because of the Konkani he spoke. The
sociologist wanted to know more about the village, its caste composition, and
the caste group that was controlling a major temple nearby. Naturally, the
sociologist was tactful in his interrogation.

It
is in the course of the conversation, the owner of the small teashop claimed that
at one point of time due to religious conversions (he used the word bhatta-bhatti)many people fled from the villages around that area and the temple in the
vicinity also had to face hard times. But something did not add up, and the
sociologist was quick to point out that religious conversions were impossible
because the Portuguese state and the church reached these areas almost at the
end of the Portuguese presence in Goa. The owner of the teashop quickly
realized that his story did not make sense, and admitted so after some
equivocation. The topic changed, our tea was served, and we left that charming
little teashop. However, being a spectator to this exchange impressed upon me
the hold of this narrative of religious conversions on the people of Goa. The
distance between this remote Goan village, both in time and space, from other,
Old Conquest areas was indeed large and the difference appeared to be stark
considering that these two regions had experienced Portuguese state and
religious policies entirely differently.

Even
if we read Mhamal’s use of the lit match and band-aid motif as a metaphor for
reconciling the history of religious conversions to contemporary Goan identity,
it can also be read as a reconciling of the same history through Indian/Hindu
culture. In itself, these two motifs point towards a certain truth: there was
violence that accompanied the establishment of Portuguese power and conversions
to Christianity. But violence was not the only occurrence in this long history.
This, and owing to the fact that the artwork makes use of Brahmanical imagery,
indeed solely evoking this history through Brahmanical experiences and
memories, the artwork fails to provide the viewer with any possible
reconciliation, or healing. And this is so because there cannot be any
reconciliation of a society whose history and culture is marked by caste oppression.

■

Owing
to the fact that the dominant perspective of Goan history has been clouded by
the fantasies and myth concocted by members of the savarna caste, there is a need
to understand how the period of Portuguese rule also provided the subaltern
sections an opportunity to break away from caste, and how (and notwithstanding
the casteist practices prevalent amongst Goan Christians) missionary activity
during the Portuguese power allowed many communities to re-invent themselves.
Much of the Goan culture that is widely recognized and celebrated even in India
for being liberal, peaceful, and comparatively less patriarchal, today is the
result of this breaking away from (some aspects) of the caste system.

What
constitutes the other – or subaltern – aspect of Goan history? To be fair, we
do not know much, as for the last many decades historical research was rather
focused on producing a historiography of Goa in terms of the tenets established
in Indian nationalism. It was devoted to produce a past for Goa largely based
on a Nehruvian vision for India. In this historiography, the narrative of
religious conversions was not challenged; the reason why the subaltern sections
converted was not an issue at all. Thus, if many in Goa – including artists and
intellectuals – find it obvious that the initial two centuries of Portuguese
power in Goa was marked by wholesale violence then it is much due to the
failure of the academia to produce new perspectives and challenge the
established status quo. Many times, the academia in Goa is the status quo.

In
a recent journal article, “Disquiet on an Island: Conversion, Conflict, and
Conformity in Sixteenth-Century Goa” (2007), Ângela Barreto Xavier, based at
the University of Lisbon, argues that in the very initial moments of
Christianization, led by the Jesuits, the focus was on the subaltern sections.
It was true that those who did not convert were either punished or their
privileges curtailed by the Portuguese administration. However as Xavier
argues, the subaltern castes had better reasons to convert. They were given
access to fertile lands that were otherwise owned by the higher castes. In the
initial moments it was the subaltern sections that were most eager for
converting to Christianity. Moreover, sati was banned and a woman could claim
inheritance from her natal family, having precedence over her non-Christian
brother(s). The wife could also claim a share in her husband’s property. However,
this situation of the missionaries and the Portuguese state favoring the
subaltern classes of Goa did not last long.

The
elite castes countered the breaking-away of the subaltern groups, such as the
Sudras and Farazes (untouchables), as well as their loss of privileges in the
spiritual and temporal realms by joining the new faith. This restored, as
Xavier argues, the initial ruptures in the old caste order, that is, the caste
order that preceded the establishment of Portuguese power. The elites now became
the favored group of the Portuguese ecclesiastical and state regimes and could
maintain their spiritual control, in addition to their control over land, by
gaining access to church committees – and in due time, to priesthood.

As
Xavier states, the heavy work in the village was done by the subaltern groups
and the elite groups looked after or controlled the religious/spiritual and
administrative affairs of the village. “As a result,” she writes, “in a society
where the religious and social order were deeply interconnected, the structural
relationship between those at the top and those at the bottom of local society
remained basically the same both before and after conversion. In that sense,
someone who travelled to Goan villages, at least until 1961, would get the
impression that – and I am reducing different situations with several layers of
complexity to a snapshot – the religious order had visibly changed while the
social order had not”.

In
many ways, one can also think of Mhamal’s use of the janave as
reflective of a similar history of the endurance of the caste system, as
discussed by Xavier. The issue of allowing the janave and other caste
markers had witnessed heated debates amongst the missionaries, especially the
Jesuits. The best example of this would be the Jesuit Roberto Nobili. In her
book, Disputed Mission: Jesuit Experiments and Brahmanical Knowledge in
Seventeenth-Century India (1999) Ines G. Županov writes that Nobili, based
in Madurai in the seventeenth century, not only participated in forms of
Brahmanical culture but also aimed to transform it from within. Nobili was a
fierce advocate of allowing Brahmin converts the use of the janave. He
argued, to his superiors in Goa and Rome, that the janave symbolized
social status, and was not a religious marker. In any case, the episode of
Nobili demonstrates how there was a diversity of opinion on the best way to
proceed with Christianization. The Portuguese state and Christian missionaries
aligned with many different caste groups and the strategy they pursued, more
often than not, was compromise and negotiation rather than force and coercion.
The examples of such compromises and negotiations are replete in the
documentary and textual sources for the history of Goa. These are also well
studied in the works of sociologist, Rowena Robinson.

The
two incidents, mentioned above help us to re-position the debate about
religious conversion in early modern Goa. It tells us that not all caste groups
faced persecution, or even if they did it was not in equal measure.

■

Could
it be possible to read Mhamal’s artwork as a critique against the very caste
practices and privileges that many groups in Goa sustained through the colonial
period, and also in the post-colonial one? Is Mhamal drawing our attention to
the fact that there are other histories in Goa differing from the Brahmanical
ones? Even if it is so, the use of certain symbols and elements, and the
participation of the artwork in Brahmanical/Hindu readings of Goan and Indian
history suggests otherwise. If the artwork seeks to critique caste practices
and privileges, it fails because it gets trapped in the very symbols that it
seeks to critique. While Mhamal’s artwork boldly displays some caste markers,
the artwork nonetheless shares an uneasy relationship with Goa’s caste history,
and the encounter with the Portuguese power and Christian religion. In as much
as it tries to reveal caste, it also hides other aspects of it.

And
finally, the little key that hangs on the janave. Is the janave
really the key to understand the artwork, indeed the history of Goa?
Arguably, there are problems with such an approach as it draws Goan history
(and one might even say, Goan art) into a narrative of persecution of body and
soul, and a loss of culture. This necessitates a healing of the wounds caused
by history and reclaiming of the lost culture. In this sense, Goan art is drawn
in a political project that seeks to use Goan history in order to produce
narratives that fan hate.

A
Brahmanical reading of history and the use of Brahmanical/savarna idioms,
symbols, and culture in art ensures, more often than not, that the histories
and memories of other groups remain suppressed and remain forgotten. These
groups had found moments – however brief – of liberation
from existing oppressive structures, and Goan society had witnessed a flowering
of new forms and vocabularies of art, architecture, and literature within the
same colonial period. To liberate these suppressed histories, one would have to
first search deeper for narratives that go beyond the family lore and
fragmentary memories.

Historians
on Goa can be, perhaps, forgiven for lacking an imagination; for being unable
to break free of narrow ideologies. But Goan artists…they have to imagine a
different future and a different past.

(An abridged version of this essay is published in The Caravan, April 2018)

Having studied Ancient Indian History and Archaeology I have moved on to a Masters in Medieval History at JNU, New Delhi. This blog is started to get all my published articles (since 2006) which appeared in GOA PLUS, GOMANTAK TIMES, AMCHO AVAZ, O HERALDO, GULAB and elsewhere 'under one roof'.
I write to keep sane.

About Me

Having studied Ancient Indian History and Archaeology I have moved on to a Masters in Medieval History at JNU, New Delhi. This blog is started to get all my published articles (since 2006) which appeared in GOA PLUS, GOMANTAK TIMES, AMCHO AVAZ, O HERALDO, GULAB and elsewhere 'under one roof'.
I write to keep sane.