I take the boards I will be using for the shears and chines and prop them up on one end to see how evenly they sag, or bend. Swapping ends and/or turning them over can influence this. Pick boards that have a matching sag. If you are resawing your wood, booked boards often evenly bend. Attaching the shears and chines to the stem and breast hook and then bend back to the frames will give a more rounded bend. Attaching them to the frames and bending to the stem and breast hook will give you a flatter bend. Often building room dictates how you will be able to bend the longitudinals.

Hi guys, thanks for your responses. I'm sorry that my question wasn't very clear but you've just given good info on something i hadn't even thought about. A very big thank you!
I was actually curious about when I get to the point of fiberglass sheathing the hull if there was a good way to get a consistent radius on the sheers to eliminate the sharp edge where the deck and side planking meet so that the glass cloth could wrap around and not lift? With the constantly changing curvatures I can't see using a router persay unless there's a trick to using a router to do it?

When sanding fillets on boat,I would curl up heavy-duty disc sander paper and use that.maybe to go other way I would cut groove in sanding block and glue in chunk of 50 to 80 grit or finer sandpaper from belt sander.or just try groove in wood sand block

.......and another one for the specialty tool box! Thanks for the help Chugalug. I picked the TNT for that exact reason. Even with all the changes I'm making to turn it into a "squirt boat" I would think it'll be quite a bit easier than a Bo Jest. My reason for choosing it for my first of a few (hopefully) boats I plan to build. It's been a lot of enjoyment going through the planning, drafting and now into the parts gathering stages and now I'm getting ready for the wood splinters!!