History of Hawai‘i Fashion

Hawai‘i’s history of fashion reflects a colorful past with myriad influences ranging from missionaries and surfers through a host of creative and hard-working entrepreneurs. Before the arrival of woven fabrics from abroad, Native Hawaiian men wore malo, or loincloths, and women wore pā‘ū skirts, both made from tapa, a cloth made from bark. Ali‘i wore intricate feather capes.

Compiled by Lorin Eleni Gill

1820s

➸ Explorers and missionaries arrive in Hawai‘i, and royals adopt western dress immediately. Missionaries sew garments for ali‘i, while commoners continue to use kapa. The formal holokū dress is developed with a higher bustline for Hawaiian women. Checkered denim work shirts called palaka are worn by men.

1920s

➸ The aloha shirt is influenced by five ethnic groups, textile scholar Linda Arthur Bradley says. Early shirts are shaped Western-style, primarily made with Japanese fabric, constructed by Chinese tailors and worn outside the pants, a style tip from Filipinos. Hawaiian design elements are introduced in the ’30s.

1929

➸ Commercial sewing is introduced at the Territorial Trade School, which joins with the University of Hawai‘i in 1964 and becomes Honolulu Community College in 1966.

1935

➸ Local shirt maker Musa-Shiya uses the term “aloha shirts” in a June 28 advertisement. Tropical prints are popular among tourists, but not locals.

1936

➸ Kamehameha Garment Co. and Branfleet (later to become Kāhala Sportswear) open factories. Their sportswear clothing is offered in finer department stores.

1962

➸ The Hawaiian Fashion Guild promotes aloha attire for use in the workplace during summertime. The Guild distributes two aloha shirts to every member of the Hawai‘i state legislature as part of its “Operation Liberation” campaign.

1963

➸ Hilo Hattie is founded on Kaua‘i, named after hula dancer/actress/comedienne Clarissa “Hilo Hattie” Haili, a local girl-turned-famous entertainer who toured the nation.

1964

1965

1966

➸ Honolulu Community College begins offering an Associate of Science degree through the Fashion Arts Department.

1967

➸ The Hawai‘i legislature approves “Friday” resolution. Two years later, Hawaiian Chamber of Commerce proclaims “Aloha Summer” for business people.

1970s

​➸ Kamehameha graduate Nake‘u Awai (’59) returns home after a dance career in New York, Europe, Reno and Hollywood to make his mark on Hawai‘i fashion. His Hawaiian-motifed fabrics would soon inspire future designer Sig Zane.

1980

➸ Tom Selleck wears aloha shirts in the Magnum, PI television show filmed on O‘ahu.

➸ Want more local fashion?
Join HONOLULU Magazine at Hawai‘i’s first official Fashion Week, which includes designer runway shows by world-renowned fashion producer Lynne Hanzawa O’Neill. You can buy limited-edition collaboration pieces hot off the runway, visit beauty bars for tips and makeovers and shop new Hawai‘i designer fashions available exclusively during HONOLULU Fashion Week, Nov. 6–9 at the Hawai‘i Convention Center.

➸ Hawai‘i Fashion Month:
Designed to promote Hawai‘i as a fashion destination and strengthen the local industry, Hawai‘i Fashion Month marks its second year with a month-long calendar of events to promote and elevate all aspects of Hawai‘i’s fashion industry including design, manufacturing, education, art and retail. Find out more at hawaiifashionmonth.com.