I am also having trouble connecting the wheel to my laptop with windows 7, there is one x in the boxes that fails to install.

Try removing and reinstalling the Logitech software. Make sure it s the most up to date program from Logitech then ref lash the latest firmware. If this doesn't work then you may have a defective wheel. I heard there has been issues with the wiring go to the wheel for the buttons. It seems to be breaking apart

Try removing and reinstalling the Logitech software. Make sure it s the most up to date program from Logitech then ref lash the latest firmware. If this doesn't work then you may have a defective wheel. I heard there has been issues with the wiring go to the wheel for the buttons. It seems to be breaking apart

Hey guys,
Just came across this thread and thought I would just say.. Using the actual onscreen calibration instructions is rubbish and leads to the feeling of turning a bus not a car.
To get the best (IMO) start the calibration and turn the wheel all the way to the left or right.
Press X
Then instead of bringing the wheel back 90 like they say, let it roll around until the counter says 900, hold it there and press X

Gives better feel and all the animations will match up as the wheel is actually a 900 native wheel.

Hello!
I've had a problem with getting the wheel movement matched with the game.
Are you saying that the way to solve that problem is just to turn the wheel to 900 when I'm calibrating it in the Project Cars menu? OMG thats so easy

hello;
someone else happens to you that sometimes the simulated steering wheel rotates much faster than the real one? or that sometimes calibrates to 900 degrees and others only leaves half?
The only solution I have seen is to leave the dead zone at 1, but it is not precise in straight
Thank you