Wine of the Week: 2008 Li Veli Passamante Salento Rosso

Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times

Eighty-year-old Negroamaro vines definitely qualify as "old vines," but this rich, full-bodied Salento Rosso from Puglia in southern Italy tastes fresh and youthful. A deep ruby red, the 2008 Li Veli Passamante has soft tannins and flavors of dark cherries and earth. It also has more finesse than many Negroamaros -- no surprise, since it was made by Paolo Trappolini from Avignonesi, the famed Vino Nobile di Montpulciano estate in Tuscany.

This sturdy Pugliese wine is a great barbecue wine. Pour it with ribs, burgers, grilled sausages and meaty chops. It really needs red meat; vegetables need not apply.