Comments: We only replaced the second rappel anchors.... or the anchors for the bottom rappel. The upper rap anchor had a decent bolt and and a 'no gud' bolt... but seemed to be in good shape. We cleaned all the shitty old webbing off the raps and replaced it with chain.

Comments: Mountainems, I am glad you liked the route! Ya the last pitch is crazy... When we did it, we called it 5.10... I thought that if it was on the ground, it would be about a V0 boulder problem... But 300' in the air, things are a little different! I will agree that it is not 5.10 after many people have done it... probably in the 5.11- range? It seems like people either send it no problem or grab a draw and/or all of them! I feel it has more to do with your head rather than strength. Anyway, good jo... more >>

Comments: Ya Paul, Probably the same wall. We found and pulled a few OLD and I mean really really old pitons on the slabs below the 2nd pitch and some slings on a bush at the ledge atop the 2nd pitch. The pins are about 7 inches long and made out of a flat stock steel. There is a logo stamped on them that has some german looking words on them... anyway...Looked like whoever placed the pins and slings were gulley climbing to the left of the route.

Comments: What an awesome route! Did it for the first time on Saturday and had a blast. I agree with Anthony, that old crummy bolt on the 5th pitch is not really necessary (not with modern day gear at least)... I had good gear before and after it and the climbing at that bolt is kind of mellow... the fixed pin above is more where the crux is and there is a bomber purple tcu right next to it.... so ya, don't lose sleep over it. Right now there are a lot of cairns marking the turn and the correct wash that... more >>

Comments: This route is stout... This thing took me so long to do just because of the pain... I could only get a few tries each day. So short and so painful! Hats off to the guys that did this thing on nuts! I used, in this order... .5 Camalot Yellow Metolius Purple C3 Yellow Metolius #3 Camalot

Comments: Oh no!!! Bummer. There is actually good gear after that roof. You just have to peek around the flake to the left. Bomber nuts and small cams. Once you get the bolt there is good gear above to get you to the anchors. Spicy move stepping right to the anchor ledge! Good go at it! Lets get that #3 back to Bennett!