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Up and running

OKay all, My pool finished filling yesterday. I went to the pool store to get some dichlor and ended up with Zip Chlor concentrate. Here is a link to the instructions incase you are unfamiliar with it. http://www.proteampoolcare.com/san_zipchlor.htm It seems they call for alot less of that than HTH Stabilizer. I put 11 OZ in last night. The test kit I got was the HTH kit from Wally World, due to not much time left for pool time this year and not wanting to spend the money on the TF100 until next year. Anywho, here are the results today after work of that kit

Chlorine was barely registered, I would say less than 1 (kit measures Total Chlorine)
PH 7.8
TA 190
Hardness 220

I would guess that the CYA is still very low since the Chlorine is next to nothing right now. Should I just discontinue the Zip Chlor and just go ahead and do the Chorox and HTH Stabilizer? Or do you think I should try another dose of Zip Chlor tonight and test CYA tomorrow? This test kit only came with 2 tests for CYA, so I want to be able to have something to measure before I start measuring. The pool store I went to didnt seem to think that CYA was a big deal...my guess is so that they sell more Chlorine??

Re: Up and running

Zip chlor is Dichlor, 11 oz in your pool raises the FC by 3.4 and the CYA by 3.1. How much did you buy?

Use the "effects of adding chemicals" section of the pool calculator to determine how much each ounce of Dichlor will raise these levels, you can track your CYA level that way and then test it in 7-10 days to see where you end up. Your Test won't read anything below 30, so keep that in mind.

Re: Up and running

Thank you so much for the reply...I bought 2 pounds. I put 11 more ounces in it tonight. Looks like I will need more. Still looks great. Judging by what you said, It may be a little light on the dosage, but I was so afraid of over doing it on the CYA since I couldn't find the measurements on it. By the way, Box Elder bugs really like the water, (not infested, maybe 15-20) but they havent been able to survive the skimmer and filter as of yet. Speaking of that, how long should I run the pump for now in the beginning? My guess is a good part of the day to make sure the chems are making there way around???

Re: Up and running

With your small filter, I'd run it at the very least 12-14 hours. Those filters are not meant to be run when swimmers are in the pool, it's an electrical safety thing, just an FYI. Also, keep in mind that the cartridges are disposable and meant to be replaced every 1-2 weeks, more often if a problem develops. You can purchase the non-disposable replacement kind, look online. These can be cleaned and reused.

Always run the filter for 1-2 hours after adding chems. Filter should run continuously while dissolving CYA - and for an additional 24 hours after adding it.

since you only had the two pounds, your CYA will only be about 10 when it is used up. The HTH stabilizer/bleach route will be cheaper. Use the "sock method" for adding CYA.

Re: Up and running

Yeah, I'll probably do that. I only have till MAYBE the first week in September left, so I dont want to throw too much more money at it, but I look at it as good practice for next year. Thanks again. I will update this thread tomorrow with current measurements to make sure I am moving in the right direction. The CYA will lower my PH some right? I know it is on the high side of good now, and by some people , probably too high.

Oh, and with my kit showing TC instead of FC, what should I look for. I think the pool calculator only talks about FC.

Re: Up and running

Yes, the Dichlor will also lower it a little. I would still purchase Muratic Acid or PH down/minus to keep on hand to maintain the PH in range. Your TA is high so it causes the PH to drift up. Not too much of an issue, just use the acid to lower it down to the mid 7s when you see it drifting.

For the TC test, you want the yellow to be at least a 5 on the comparator, dark yellow

The Intex systems work best when you prevent problems from occurring in the first place, so be diligent about your chlorine levels. Post back if you have any questions/problems.

Re: Up and running

Took water to the pool store to have them test it today. And stopped by Home Depot for some Muriatic Acid on the way home. If that tells ya what they found.

8.8 on the PH. I had the pool covered with that ridiculous Intex cover today because I discovered that it heated the water up pretty decently. So they sun didnt sap too much chlorine today. Either that our the cya is starting to kick in a little. We swam a little tonight and it was VERY pleasant. Anyways, here are the results.

TC 2.3
FC 2.3
PH 8.8
TA 144
TH 227

The printout said CYA not tested. I asked why, and they said it was because the PH was too high.

Re: Up and running

Yes, Thanks. I usually try to shoot for half as bad. I do have the HTH 6 way test kit. My PH test was hard to tell. My BEST guess was 7.8, but it definately could have been higher. That is why I took it to the pool store. Well that, and to test the CYA, but because of the PH....

But I tend to treat, not as agressive since I havent totally trusted any of these tests thus far. Who knows, I may have still overdone it. But if it was at an average of my 7.8 reading and there 8.8 reading...then I just MAY have hit the mark. We'll see. Thanks for the reply.

Re: Up and running

Just back fromt he pool store. Looks like my numbers are coming in line.

Yes they do use the strip thing, some BioGuard program. So I will still back it up with my HTH kit for sure.

TC 2.5
FC 2.5
PH 8.0
TA 127
So once I verify PH, I will add some more Muriatic Acid.

The guy at the pool store tried to tell me that the Zip Chlor does NOT add CYA. Well, the only thing I have put in the pool have been Zip Chlor, Muratic Acid, and people. In no particular order. CYA had to come from somewhere and since Zip Chlor is Dichlor....... I just smiled and said "thanks." I trust you people here on TFP.

Re: Up and running

Okay, all my zip chlor is gone. I tested my CYA and it still doesnt show up to 30 on my HTH kit. The dot was getting cloudy but still visible. It has to be close to that though. OTO chlorine drops are still showing anywhere from 1 to 3 at the end of the sunny day. So that leads me to believe that my estimate of upper 20's (that I got from the pool calculator) is pretty accurate. With that said....
Since all I have right now is the OTO reagent should I aim for the high side on the chlorine? (Remember by the time I get a TF kit, it will be time to take it down the pool) I know Frustrated said that I needed to have it high, just not sure if that is regular maintenance or in the beginning. I guess what I mean is GENERALLY speaking, if no other problems persist, is FC pretty close to what the OTO reads? I know there are variables, but <knock on wood> no other problems right now.

Re: Up and running

We had a few wild weather days this past week(for this time of the year in northern Utah) High winds, some rain....maybe a half-inch all week. With as dry as it has been, the pool got some dust along with quite a few leaves (the skimmer took care of the larger items. I have vaccumed twice this week (with the Deluxe Intex vacuum). I just went to do my nightly measurements. And notice there is still some dirt down there on the bottom. Not alot, but still annoying. Anyways, it is still clear, but not "sparkling" Thanks to this forum, I am so much more aware and expect sparkling perfection all the time. So what do I need to do to get the sparkle back besides vaccum again? Oh, and that pesky PH...I know 7.8 is acceptable, but is on the high side. In the past 2 weeks, there is 2 gallons on muratic acid in there.

TC 2 (right now, just trying to decide if I just add enough to get to 5, or do I need to shock it?)
PH 7.8
CYA 40