I say the Attolini. Bespoke is supposed to make you look your best, not every house style works for everyone. However, all your tailor pants or even some of casual pants are rather wonky, especially the Rubinacci number.

Attolini
Rubinacci
Castangia
and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)

This

The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.

The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.

Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.

The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.

Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.

Steed looks the worst to me--that waist is all mucked up, particularly on Steed #3. The Attolini MTM, particularly the dinner suit, looks very MTM. They just aren't shaped very finely. The Milanese Rubinacci looks better than both those two, but I'd personally prefer the Attolini bespoke. The Rubinacci just doesn't have the same character when it comes out of Milan. In particular, the chest looks way too lean and bland.

I agree with those who have said the biggest problem is with the pants. The leg opening is, IMO, too wide for that short of a break. I would either get narrower trousers, or, better yet, add a 1/2" or so to the hem so they will break properly.

Attolini
Rubinacci
Castangia
and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0b5cur1ty

Firstly, thanks for a terrific thread - very informative.

To my own surprise, looking at all these pics, I find myself preferring the MTM from Attolini (and Castangia) to all the rest. I think this has mainly to do with the shoulders of the jackets - these seem to me to be more normal and in proportion (read narrower) compared to a lot of the bespoke jackets (particularly Steed), some of which seem slightly over-extended. Attolini #1 is particularly successful IMO - though that's probably the subtle roping doing it for me. I also remain of the opinion that slightly slimmer trousers would do wonders for the balance of that grey Steed suit.

Needless to say, this is all nit-picking at the highest level and most of this looks great - the exception being those white jeans that are in desperate need of hemming.

Agree with the above; strangely, Attolini MTM looks best to me, esp. because of the shoulder issue obs explained so well. Oh yes, and the trousers... I dunno how to fix it but they certainly don't look as nice as the jackets.

Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.

Steed looks the worst to me--that waist is all mucked up, particularly on Steed #3. The Attolini MTM, particularly the dinner suit, looks very MTM. They just aren't shaped very finely. The Milanese Rubinacci looks better than both those two, but I'd personally prefer the Attolini bespoke. The Rubinacci just doesn't have the same character when it comes out of Milan. In particular, the chest looks way too lean and bland.

Attolini bespoke for the win in my book.

Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?

Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?

Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?