Thanks! The ease of building these compared to my other H-Frames is wonderful! Glue-up with the dowels was very easy and with simple clamps everything aligns well for fit. Very nice indeed! Just wipe off the surface with a paper towel is all I did for prep for glue. Titebond III glue worked well with plenty of time for fitting and clamping for me, as I am very slow. Thanks for all the hard work making the flat packs!

Drivers installed and wiring for the speakers is done. Now for some testing before finishing sub #2.

Thanks for the feeback Rich, appreciate it !Stack looks great

I know you use a bit of a different wiring setup than most, but for those of you just wiring "normally", those vacant 2 holes in the lower module baffle allow you to go from the driver/servo coil terminals and head toward the upper module without having to backtrack . Helps keep wiring as short as possible. Using that upper hole let's you go through the baffle and directly up into the top module (or next module in a larger stack). We've included holes on both sides to allow the driver/servo leads to remain on either side of the cabinet, no back and forth.

Are the modular units attached to each other in some way? I could see it working well with just dowels if you are building a tower of them, but how would it work if you were going to lay them down on their sides? You could screw them together, but then you have screw heads under the no-rez so not real easy to take apart in the future.

There are four bolts and washers with nylon lock nuts between each module as well as the dowels.

The tops and bottoms of the modules would need to be removed to make them lay flat on their side. No problem with the modules.

Would suggest placing them sideways and then bolt them together to make it easier instead of tipping them over.

Hardware is included in the kits (grade 8 5/16 x 1.75" bolts, flat washers, & nylon lock nuts)Easiest way to deal withthe no - rez is to drill a corresponding hole to matchthe bolts. Bolts are a nice button head design so really wouldn't be seen from top... I can cut a chunk of no-rez, drill holes, position with bolts in a module and snap a pic. On the weekend

regarding the no-rez and the bolts / nuts that holod the modules in place.The center of each bolt hole is 19mm in from the side panle and 27.5 mm in from the front or rear edge. Whenther you do your no rez with butt joints or miter it, the bolts will be hidden by the no-rez on the side panel once it is installed.

You can either drill a hole in the location or you can just notch the hard damping layer . Try and leave the foam above so it meets up properly withthe foam on the said panel. I just snipped this out quickly with some side cutters for pics , could have been eater LOL

So the bolts are hidden behind the norez? So if you would like to break down the boxes would you have to remove the Norez or could the bolts be loosened and disconnected without having to replace the Norez?

Yeah, the bolts/nuts are hidden under the foam of the no rez. You'd be able to get them out if you wanted to break them down, it'd just be a matter of compressing the OCF and getting an allen key in the bolt, a socket onthe nut below.

Hey folksWe've done up some of the same amp boxes to fit the HX300's . These are bsically the same design as the A370/HX800 boxes but sized accordingly.Boxes are vented, 45'd inthe corners, and earch corner has a single #20 biscuit. Easy to assemble.

Pricing is the same, $70/pr or $60 / pr with flat packs

I can core a 1" hole inthe end plate if you want to mount a female 4-pole connector inthe amp boxjay