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If your meter has an Ohm setting, use it to check the solenoid coil for being open (bad) or for continuity (good). If no ohm meter, use a 12V battery and test leads to check to see if the solenoid will energize (pull in).

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On the Bobcat 225, the solenoid energizes to bring the unit to low idle speed and de-energizes to increase to weld/power speed.

If the solenoid coil proves good with the continuity check and it pulls in on the battery test, make sure there is 0 volts AC between idler control module terminals G and E with the unit running and no weld/power load on the unit.

Confirm there is battery voltage between idler module terminals B and E with STOP/RUN/START switch in RUN/IDLE position.

If the above checks out and there is no battery (+) voltage at idler module terminal C after 15-20 seconds with switch in RUN/IDLE position after a weld/power load is removed or after unit is first started, the idler module is bad.

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Also check to make sure that the plunger rod isn't bottomed out inside the solenoid. Sometimes the vibration on the engine will cause the bolts holding the solenoid to come loose and first time it tries to kick down, the solenoid will pull toward the plunger instead of the opposite.

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Thanks gents! By the way the soleniod checks out good. Reads 2.51 ohms. both ways. Where is the idler modual located? Is it the same as the idle run switch? And if possible where are the circut boards located? Thanks Newby here...

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I got a 225G yesterday with same problem. Wont go to high speed under load when on turtle. Runs fine if left on rabbit.
Duane, I did all these checks and everything checks good except on the ICM, pins G-E measured 2.5mvAC no load. I know you say 0 vac so does 2.5mv mean its bad?
Also where to buy the icm if it is bad. M4less wants $236. Seems a little high to me?
Thanks to all for giving this info