La Macarena (25)

La Macarena is one of the most traditional neighbourhoods in the city, filled with baroque churches, antique taverns and winding narrow streets.

Tourists typically skip this part of Seville, but we recommend passing through, especially in the morning, when Calle Feria is filled with fresh fish and vegetable stands. This street is the most commercial and busiest in La Macarena, especially on Thursdays, when there is a popular, long-standing street market. On the other hand, if you visit in the afternoon, you’ll find that Sevillians crowd into local bars to eat tapas and have a drink. One of the most popular spots in the neighbourhood is “El Rinconcillo,” founded in 1670 and said to be the oldest bar in Seville.

It is said that during Roman times there was a significant population in this area. Furthermore, many believe that the area’s name comes from the Roman goddess, Macaria, daughter of Hercules. Also dating from this time is the old fort that much later, in the 12th century, the Almoravids would transform into a magnificent wall that can still be seen today. Additionally, unconnected to the wall, is the Arco de la Macarena, a triumphal arch that has sadly become deformed by the various remodelling efforts since its construction in the 16th century.

Another key building in this neighbourhood is the Palacio de las Dueñas, a Mudejar building from the 15th century that is the residence of the Dukes of Alba. In this beautiful palatial home, with its spectacular central courtyard, the poets Manuel and Antonio Machado were born, given that they were the sons of one of the duke’s employees. However, don’t get your hopes of seeing it up too high, because you can only visit if you have received written permission in advance.

Finally, among the many churches and convents that you will find in this district, some of the finest are the Monasterio de San Clemente, the Iglesia de San Pedro and the Convento de Santa Paula. Nor should you miss out on the signature Torre de don Fabrique, and most of all, the Basilica de la Macarena.