Uzbekistan travel guide

Our Uzbekistan travel guide explores the country at the very heart of the Silk Road, and one that has absorbed the many cultures that passed along its roads and trails. Take a look at the things we rate and don't rate in Uzbekistan and discover those sights that are often overlooked, too, plus find out a little more about the food, currency and history of Uzbekistan.

Uzbekistan travel guide

Traversed by traders selling silks and spices for centuries, the Silk Road, and the historical cities along its spidering tributaries, shared the priceless gifts of art, architecture and inspiration from the curious East to the captivated West. At its crossroads, in the very heart of Central Asia, is Uzbekistan; a country slowly shaped by the influence of each individual culture that flourished there.

A country at the very core of the ancient Silk Road, Uzbekistan has been gifted with the artistry, spirit and quirks of every culture to have walked its paths.

From post-Soviet Tashkent, where an awkward but beguiling jumble of old meets very new; to Samarkand, a former kingdom of Alexander the Great and a treasure trove of intricate Islamic art and beautiful, emerald-tiled architecture; and Bukhara, a literal living museum with a skyline punctuated by dozens of azure mosques and Madrassas, kept lively by the charming chatter of local gossip – Uzbekistan’s cities each tell their own story. A country that remains swathed in myth and mystery, it’s possible to while away days at a time enraptured by the traditional culture and visual history, from which you will likely come away enthused with more questions than you arrived with.

WHAT WE RATE & WHAT WE DON'T

Underrated

Uzbek desert

Uzbekistan is famous for its architecture and Silk Road history; so its landscape sometimes gets upstaged. But the Kyzyl Kum Desert, aka Yangikazgan, is the world’s 11th largest and famous for its red sand which ripples into the horizon. The gateway village is Yangi Kazgan, north of Lake Aydarkul. Take treks on foot or camel, overnight in nomads’ camel hair yurts, listen to traditional music and sleep under an explosion of stars.

Tashkent metro

The bulk of Tashkent’s beauty sits underground in the stations of its stunning subway system which, having been built after the devastating 1966 earthquake, boasts Soviet style scale and grandeur, but also oozes the elegant flair and artistry of the country’s Islamic heritage. Spend a day discovering the 29 stations rich in engraved metal, glass, granite, marble and smooth carved alabaster. Urban art at its most unique.

Karakalpakstan

A semi-autonomous, desert region home to the infamous Aral Sea, which is now dried up and yet an extraordinary sight. This region boasts many off-the-beaten-track archaeological sites, such as the 4th Century BCE Gyaur-Kala fortress. Its capital is Soviet built Nukus, where the Igor Savitsky Museum has one of the finest collections of Soviet modern art in the world. It’s also a great region for staying in traditional yurt camps.

Modern influences

So much focus is on the ancient in Uzbekistan with Soviet influences still being swept under the carpet. Understandably, as independence was only in 1991. Eventually, and in an ideal world, Tashkent’s brutal architecture will be converted into exquisitely designed modern art hotels, arts spaces or galleries. Spooky, empty factories will be restored in sustainable ways, and vast public parks will be places of peace.

Rated

The three Ms

Mosques, minarets and madrasas are what Uzbek architecture is all about, and Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand are historic hotpoints. The ancient madrasas of Khiva include Allakuli-Khan Madrasa, one of the best examples of Khorezm medieval architecture. The mosques surrounding Registan Square in Samarkand are world famous, while Bukhara has the Kalyan minaret at Po-i-Kalyan mosque.

Samarkand

Samarkand, the heart of the Silk Road, is steeped in history and, not surprisingly, sought after by the likes of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane (aka Timur). Tamerlane made it his capital in the 14th century, with Registan Square at its heart. Indeed, it’s like a mini kingdom in its own right. As Tamarlane said, “If you want to know about us, examine our buildings.” And best not argue with Tamarlane.

Bukhara

Take a deep breath, ancient architecture fans, because Bukhara is bamboozling, with 140 ancient monuments dating back centuries, but in particular to the 17th century Khanate which really put it on the Silk Road map. With over 350 mosques and 100 madrasas, this really is a holy city. In fact, is name originates from the Sanskrit ‘vihara’, meaning ‘monastery’. Sacred and sumptuous, it also still feels living and real.

Khiva

In the far north this really is, in many ways, pure, ancient Uzbekistan, and barely touched by tourism. Walk through the gates of the old town, Ichan Qala, and lap up the medieval magic of mosques, mausoleums and minarets, plus mysterious alleyways, mystical workshops and marvellous cafes and carpet makers. For real life, check out modern Dichon-Qala outside the ancient city walls, where real people lead real lives.

Overrated

Cashmere & cotton

Cashmere in Uzbekistan is usually from China and often not from sustainable sources. And Uzbek cotton has been embargoed by international companies because of forced labour associated with its harvests and government led quotas. It is also draining the country dry, literally, of water and more sustainable farming opportunities.

Uzbek food

Oh dear, it’s really not great. In spite of its many cultural influences, it hasn’t caught up with the likes of Iran yet. The national dish is plov, which sounds as bland as it tastes. The basics are all there: meat (read: sheep) and rice, but the fat-to-meat ratio is often intolerable. If you’re a nomadic carnivore, brilliant; if you’re a vegetarian, prepare for a lot of bread and tomatoes.

Respecting human rights

Uzbekistan has had had its fair share of authoritarian regimes, and today this country is way up there on the watch list for Amnesty International and other human rights organisations. From homosexuality being illegal, to enforced labour in the cotton harvest, as well as a police state with a reputation of corruption and mass surveillance, Uzbekistan is complex. Do read up before you go.

Independent travel

The roads are poor, the police check points can be a drag, finding good food is tricky and the distances can be long. This really is a country where travelling with your own driver/guide or in a small group with a knowledge of good, responsible tourism practices will mean that you will get to see all of its incredible sites in as much comfort as possible. And have plenty of fun along the way.

FOOD, SHOPPING & PEOPLE

Eating & drinking in Uzbekistan

Tea is the drink of choice in Uzbekistan, often green tea, with kefir yoghurt drink served with breakfast.

Samsas are everywhere, a bit like samosas or Greek pastries. Fillings vary from ‘yalpiz’ grass like vegetable, but also meat, pumpkin and herbs. Manty is like a ravioli or dumpling, filled with meat, veg and spices.

Bread is almost a religious affair. It’s everywhere. Never cut it with a knife, but break it into pieces by right hand and always place it on the table flat side down.

Most people eat with their hands in Uzbekistan, so it is important to do so with your right hand, as this is predominantly a Muslim country.

People & language

Uzbekistan alone is home to over 30 million people and has the largest population in Central Asia. 80 percent of its people are Uzbeks who are a Turkic people. Their language, Uzbek, is influenced by Persian, Arabic but also by Russian. Russian is also widely spoken especially in the cities. In Samarkand and Bukhara you are also likely to hear the native languages of Tajiks and Kazakhs. And just to add to the multi cultural mix, in Karalkalpakstan people speak their own language of Karalkalpak.

As-salomu alaykum = Hello/good morning

Rahmat = Thank you

Salom = How are you?

Kechirasiz = Sorry

Ha, iltimos! = Yes, please

Gifts & Shopping

It’s on the Silk Road, and there is still plenty around, but do buy it handmade. Margilan is the place to buy the real thing and Bukhara’s or Khiva’s carpets are world renowned.

The Artisan Development Centre in Bukhara is a hive of productivity where you can watch artisans create hand-sewn tapestries, miniature paintings and chess sets.

Wine has been a feature of Uzbekistan since ancient times and there are 14 wineries here.

Samarkand paper is sublime, based on ancient techniques using mulberry bark, silk fibres and flower petals. Wiped out during Soviet times, it is now being revived but you have to seek it out. It’s worth it, though.

Despite being a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol definitely features in Uzbekistan. Vodka stayed around long after the Russian rulers left.

How much does it cost?

Tashkent metro ticket: 30p

High speed train Tashkent to Samarkand: £17

Entry fee to Registan: £1.50

Local beer: 70p

Sleeper train Tashkent to Urgench (35km from Khiva): £75

Plov and tea for two in standard restaurant: £1.50-2.50

A BRIEF HISTORY OF UZBEKISTAN

Much of Uzbekistan’s history lies within the foundations of the Silk Road, as its affiliated trade and cultural input have influenced this Central Asian country since well before the Common Era, pioneered by the Chinese who wanted to trade and connect with countries in the west. Uzbekistan was on theirs and many others’ paths and, consequently, the political and cultural influences over time became as active, valuable and influential as the silk worm itself.
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Alexander the Great to Muslim Rule
The early cities of the Silk Road, known at that time as Mawarannahr, were Samarkand and Bukhara, the former having been conquered by Alexander the Great in 328 BC, bringing it briefly under control of his Macedonian Empire. The biggest influence to follow, however, was the arrival of Muslim Arab rule, during the 7th and 8th centuries and whose influences took over from the region’s indigenous Iranian nomads, and can still be seen today. Such as in Samarkand, where the central Registan square still has magnificent remnants of ancient Islamic architecture. The whole area that makes up today’s Uzbekistan flourished economically, culturally and academically under Muslim Arab rule, which also resulted in an inevitable conversion to Islam. Bukhara also thrived as a centre for Islamic culture during that time, and these stunning influences can still be seen in its buzzing, old city so steeped in tradition.

Genghis Khan & Timur
Genghis Khan invaded in the 13th century and opened up the region to nomadic Turkics from the northern steppe, who joined Khan’s forces. Khan also established a tradition that any ruler of Central Asia from that point on had to be a blood descendant. This period is sometimes described as the ‘Turkification’ of the region, which had a cultural influence for sure, but also a destructive one with cities like Bukhara suffering severely under the Mongol conquest. Following Khan’s death in 1227, his blood relations ruled on for over a century until one tribal chieftain, and non blood relation, Timur (aka Tamerlane) stood ground and became ruler in the 1380, making his capital Samarkand once more. No ordinary chieftain, he sought his own empire by conquering Central Asia, Iran, Asia Minor and then bits of Russia, finally dying during an invasion of China in 1405. Somewhat extraordinary, given that most of us say, Timur who?

The Khanates
At least, that is what the Uzbek tribes said, as they arrived in from the north in 1501, hearing that the Timurid Empire had broken up post the main man’s death. He created three independent khanates, or centres of power, were created at Bukahra, Khiva, and Kokand. Fighting between these khanates led to the eventual demise of this Uzbek era, not helped by the fact that the Silk Road was becoming less influential economically, with international trade taking to the oceans rather than the roads, as led by the Europeans. This weakness was exploited by the Persians who attacked various regions, leading to a long period of instability.

From silk to cotton
At this point, enter the Russians from stage north in 1865, taking Tashkent and making it their capital of Turkestan at that time. They subsequently took over the emirates of Bukhara and khanates of Samarkand, Khiva and Kokand. Although the khanates had a certain amount of autonomy, this new part of the Russian Empire continued through the 19th and 20th centuries, with a socialist republic established in 1924, despite local resistance to the Red Army following WW1.

A big part of this Russian history is wrapped up in cotton as local agricultural traditions were changed to produce cotton intensively, as it was seen to be ‘white gold’. This led to the overuse of land, depletion of soil quality and also water, including the drying up of the Aral Sea, which many areas are still recovering from today. Indeed, the annual cotton harvest is still seen as a massive event in Uzbekistan, when labour is mobilised to attain high quotas in ways that are considered highly unethical by labour law and human rights organisations.

“Uzbekistan was the world’s second biggest user of modern-day slavery according to the 2016 Global Slavery Index.” – Amnesty International

Control from Moscow continued for years, and it is interesting to note that other cultural influences occurred during both World Wars, when not only Russians moved here, but also Crimean Tatars, Chechens, and Koreans who were exiled here, because the Soviets considered them to be subversive. There are still people from all of these different groups in Uzbekistan today. For example, there are nearly 200,000 Uzbek Koreans, who refer to themselves as ‘Koryo-saram’, meaning ‘Korean person’. While the majority of people identify as Uzbeks, other ethnic groups include Russians, Tajiks, Kazakhs, Karakalpaks and Tatars, with the major religion being Islam. There are a lot of stories to be told here.

Karimov – empire or epic?
The Russian story in Uzbekistan lasted until 1991, when it became independent following the breakup of the Soviet Union. Islam Karimov, who had been in control under Soviet rule, remained president until his death in 2016, following years of controversial rule regarding human rights, torture and killings, according to Amnesty International and other worldwide human rights organisations. These policies led to political isolation for many years with the EU, for example, putting sanctions in place following the government troops’ shooting of protesters in 2005, known as the Andijan massacre.

The new Uzbekistan?
Today, Uzbekistan still struggles to gain financial independence. Although it is resource rich, the big earners are few and far between. Corruption at government level was accentuated by the infamous Gulnara Karimova, daughter of Karimov, who was placed under house arrest in 2014 while her father was still in power, for money laundering and involvement with a crime network connected with her business empire. Uzbekistan is, therefore, seen to be starting anew after the years of Kremlin then Karimov rule. The current president is Shavkat Mirziyoyev, who was prime minster under Karimov and in regional positions of power for years. One of his policies is to open up the country to good international relations again, of which tourism will be a vital key, of course. But for organisations like Amnesty and Human Rights Watch, the jury is still out.

More about Uzbekistan

Our Uzbekistan map and highlights pinpoint not only the cultural gems of the Silk Road, such as Samarkand and Bukhara, but also the far northern deserts, the southern belle of Shakhrisabz and many other lesser known Uzbek unique spots.

A visit to Uzbekistan is like leafing through the charred chapters of the Silk Road and nowhere is this ambience more exemplified than within the Islamic architecture adorning the cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Tashkent.