SIMON on 26 Jan 2015

Great bit of kit.. Fitted one to the nc two years ago and one on the tiger this year...Hassle & worry free auxiliarys..

5/5

Les on 06 Jan 2015

Bike Owned: Yamaha TDM900ATown: NewtownardsCountry: United Kingdom

Very compact and easy to install and use with screw terminals throughout. Attached mine to the bike with double sided foam tape as I had an ideal location just behind the seat lock on the rear mudguard. Fuses are a very tight fit so care is needed to avoid bending the terminals. Main benefit so far is that I can switch of the bike and walk away knowing that the heated grips are off and I will not be returning to a flat battery.

5/5

martin on 30 Dec 2014

Bike Owned: ncHonda750xTown: radstockCountry: United Kingdom

great piece of kit, easy to wire and easy to fit especially in the storage area on nc. Answers all the wiring issues for extra accessories. plus great service from NippyNorms.

5/5

Ian on 17 Nov 2014

Bike Owned: ZZR1400Town: Frith CommonCountry: United Kingdom

Considering the hassle of getting to the battery this item is ideal, especially with the option of making a switch-able power option. I now have three items connected all on the switched power source. Well made piece of kit and does the job. Fits nicely under the seat making it and the wiring nice and accessible.

5/5

William on 07 Nov 2014

Bike Owned: R1200GSATown: HerefordCountry: United Kingdom

I already have one of these on my GSA but my latest purchase was for using in my VW Amarok pickup. Originally I had thought it too extravagant to use inside the comfortable confines of a 4 wheeler and used a couple of generic fuse boxes and a relay but in the end the clutter of that setup was just too much and I shelled out for the fuzeblock like I should've done in the first place.

5/5

Robin on 11 Sep 2014

Bike Owned: Kawasaki Versys 1000Town: GraysCountry: United Kingdom

Idiot proof to install (I did it myself - so has to be) and works perfectly. Not the cheapest solution but the best I've come across.

5/5

Rob on 07 Sep 2014

Bike Owned: Kawasaki ZZR1400Town: BinfieldCountry: United Kingdom

Great product and very easy to install, despite a total lack of available wiring info from Kawasaki. Thoroughly recommend this if you're planning to install a number of accessories to your bike.

5/5

Mark on 03 Jun 2014

Bike Owned: BMW1150GSTown: BristolCountry: United Kingdom

Does what it says it does and easy to fit, even for someone like me!!

5/5

Chris on 27 Apr 2014

Bike Owned: BMW R1150GSTown: SheffieldCountry: United Kingdom

A very well made product. Simplifies fitting of electrical accessories & the option of permanent or switched supply is really useful. The unit fits neatly behind the battery on my GS which made the installation really easy. Recommended!

5/5

Barrie on 05 Mar 2014

Bike Owned: BMW R1200RTTown: Rush denCountry: United Kingdom

Neat product that was easy to fit using the clear instructions. Only difficulty that I had was finding a location to secure it to the frame. Used it to connect a Garmin navigation system but plenty of scope for fitting additional gadgets in the future.

5/5

Doug on 06 Feb 2014

Bike Owned: F800GSTown: WiganCountry: United Kingdom

I bought this after deciding that I needed to tidy up the accessory wiring on the bike. Very easy to install, makes adding auxiliary lights etc. simple, even for a novice. I located the panel under the seat so that should a fuse blow it can be changed with minimum fuss.Alround, a great product

5/5

Richard on 27 Jan 2014

Bike Owned: Honda NT700VAATown: PudseyCountry: United Kingdom

Very nice piece of well-made electrical kit. I can only agree with all the other reviews. If I had to be picky - then a) it's a big lump with potentially up to 15 wires hanging off it, and b) all switched circuits are powered via the single relay. The fuze block works well with Nippy Norman's Autoswitch.

5/5

Barrie on 15 Jan 2014

Bike Owned: Tiger 1050Town: BristolCountry: United Kingdom

Have not installed yet, it is a shame that the fitting harness does not come as a standard part of the kit, but service from Nippy Normans is outstandingly brilliant.

4/5

Stephen on 01 Jan 2014

Bike Owned: F800GS & GTR1400Town: PeterboroughCountry: United Kingdom

The FZ1 Fuzeblock is a great item and very popular in the moto community. No more messy wires crowding the battery terminals or a mass of relays an wires in your fairing. This is the answer to all your wiring needs. Just one set of heavier gauge +ive and -ive wires to the battery and one thinner trigger wire to an ignition source and you're all set - simplez. Then attach your accessories directly to the fuzeblock, no terminals needed, and write on the cover what's what. You're good to go.

The real strength of this device is the built in relay, which allows you to easily have switched or constant power, so don't worry about devices draining your battery ever again. It's easy to change out a fuse if one blows. The block itself is well made with no flimsy plastics and the fuse holders are nice and tight with room for spares. You can wire in up to 6 accessories to a maximum of 30amps total, so this should be plenty to handle most devices. Exercise caution though if you have loads of high power devices like heated clothing and lights - don' overload the fuzeblock or your bikes alternator. It is an easy install but that really depends on your bike: fuzeblock location and routing wires etc but it is very simple install.

My main criticism is price, it is quite expensive and you don't get any wiring loom - it's just the fuzeblock! A wiring loom is available at extra cost. Thumb screws on the top to remove the casing would be better than the phillips screws making fuse changes easier. And a 3M sticky pad would be nice if you don't want to screw the block down. It's not the smallest or cheapest fuzeblock but it does offer all the right features.

4/5

Jan on 30 Dec 2013

Bike Owned: BMW k 1200pTown: Zoetermeer Country: Netherlands

fuzeblock was exactly what I needed for all of my accessories in the back of my BMW K1200

5/5

Patrick on 25 Nov 2013

Bike Owned: BMW F800GTTown: ElginCountry: United Kingdom

Does the job it was designed to do brilliantly. On the BMW F800S, ST & GT it fits perfectly in the space above the air filter under the dummy tank. This ensures that it is not only close to the battery for wiring but also that it remains 100% dry. Once fitted all additional electrical items are a breeze to fit.

4/5

Geoff on 05 Sep 2013

This fuse box is good for 6 fully fused circuits and yet it is compact enough to be located almost anywhere on a bike, EXCEPT where there is a possibility of water ingress or dampness. Had its cover been fitted with a neoprene seal I would have awarded it 5 stars.

5/5

Bob on 24 Jul 2013

Bike Owned: Kawasaki ZZR1400Town: PetersfieldCountry: United Kingdom

I can't add anything that hasn't been said before. This is the perfect solution for wiring in accessories.

Excellent Product!

5/5

Wulstan on 02 Jul 2013

John on 02 Jul 2013

Bike Owned: R1200GS LCTown: HamptonCountry: United Kingdom

This unit is very well made with a robust feel. Just fits under the rear seat and has performed perfectly. The mini fuses need to be sourced as they don't seem to be readily available (carry some spares, just in case). I drilled the base plate, which can be detached and used cable ties to secure the cables to the base plate to keep any strain off the cables.

4/5

Eric on 30 Jun 2013

Bike Owned: K1600GTTown: BreuvilleCountry: France

Can be installed under the seat due to the small size. Easy to install with its harness. You can decide to add an item powered a continuous way or after switching on and change when you want. Fuses can be difficult to put in place. Be carefull not to push them a too strong way.

Iain on 20 Jun 2013

Could do with more protection to the connectors, so just falls short of 5/5

5/5

David on 07 May 2013

Bike Owned: Honda CBF1000GTTown: EnniskillenCountry: United Kingdom

Easy to fit and does the job brilliantly.

5/5

Roy on 04 May 2013

Bike Owned: BMW R1200RT, BMW R1200GSTown: BergenCountry: Norway

It's hard to add to what has already been said. The Fuzeblock is a great, compact way to distribute power to all your accessories, particularly on a Canbus system.Very satisfied.

5/5

Mark on 23 Apr 2013

Bike Owned: Honda NC700STown: BlackpoolCountry: United Kingdom

Great product, easy to install with excellent instructions.

5/5

Don on 01 Apr 2013

Bike Owned: Yamaha FJR1300Town: HoltCountry: United Kingdom

Very neat. Fits perfectly in the slot under the tail cone and is held in place by the existing rubber straps. Couldn't be easier to access if I need to replace a fuse......... Having the choice of switched or un-switched loads gives great flexibility. Love it

5/5

David on 19 Mar 2013

Bike Owned: Triumph Bonneville SETown: WrexhamCountry: United Kingdom

Neat, fairly small and just fits under the seat with minor adjustments. Easy to wire due to the screw terminals. Make adding accessories a snip!

rob on 06 Dec 2012

Spot on exactly what I needed for all of my accessories and good fast service.

Cheers Rob.

5/5

William on 15 Nov 2012

Bike Owned: 2012 GSATown: HerefordCountry: United Kingdom

Still finishing the install as I write this review. I have used a similar PC-8 from EasternBeaver, that had 2 unswitched and 6 switched outlets, on a VStrom and find this one is more compact and convenient, especially having the onboard relay. On my GSA it's mounted under the seat and takes the trigger from the accessory outlet that's in the same place - this means there's a 90 second delay on "shutdown" by default. I like that this fuseblock allows you to decide which are switched & which unswitched by the position of the fuse. Solidly built. Tip in wiring stuff up. Most of my relays & other electronic bits like light modulators etc are in the space under the tank. To save on cabke runs back to the fuseblock, I've used a household common earth block. This lets me wire in up to eight ground wires and simply run one (thick) wire back to the battery negative which has pretty much halved the wires running back to the fuse block - much neater.

4/5

Bernard on 24 Sep 2012

Bike Owned: BMWf800Town: UckfieldCountry: United Kingdom

A great piece of equipment. Easy to install. Easy to wire switched and unswitched. One downside is its height due to the size of the relay can make it difficult to find a space. Put an inline fuse on the live feed.

5/5

philip on 12 Aug 2012

Bike Owned: BMW R1200RTown: L'Argentière La BesséeCountry: France

Perfect! Very easy to install (used with "scratch" for my bike.You can choose fuses according the power of your equipment (gps, lights....)Very great product! compatible with CAN-BUS system.I recommend!!

5/5

Mats on 09 Jul 2012

Bike Owned: 2008 BMW GS1200ATown: SlemmestadCountry: Norway

Love this little thing! Fits perfect in the empty tool tray under the seat of the Adventure. Really easy to mount, with good description. Works excellent, Couldn´t be happier with this thing.

5/5

Barry on 11 Jun 2012

Bike Owned: Yamaha FJR1300ATown: GreenhitheCountry: United Kingdom

Very easy to install under seat makes wiring accessories simple i am pleased with Fuzeblock and would recommend if your thinking of installing one.5* from me

4/5

Jonathan on 25 May 2012

Bike Owned: ST1100 (PY)Town: CrowboroughCountry: United Kingdom

I scoured high & low to find this product and I am pleased to say I am not dissapointed. I am no automotive electrician but will give anything a go if the instructions are clear enough. The compact / unique design negates the requirement for fitting relays and additional fuse holders in the future. Switched & non switched variants within one device; hoe ingenious!

Fuzeblocks Inc. has designed a fuse block that is easy to install, fits into a small space and provides a built in relay which offers the choice for any device to be switched on and off automatically with the vehicle or be powered constantly.

The FZ-1 installation requires no crimping and all connections are made by heavy duty screw terminals that can accomodate up to 12 AWG wiring. All the FZ-1 needs is +12VDC, ground and a switched trigger to make it fully functional. Then connect devices to the FZ-1 selecting constant or switched power for each device. The unique board layout provides six individually fused circuits that can each supply constant or switched power depending on your needs. Check out all the features the FZ-1 has to offer and we think you'll agree that it makes easy work of wiring aftermarket accessories on your vehicle.

Normally to have switched and constant power, for your motorcycle accessories, requires two fuze blocks. One is wired directly to the battery for constant power and the second fuse block is wired through a relay battery for switched power. The FZ-1 eliminates the need to wire two seperate fuse blocks by providing both types of power in one unit. It reduces the wiring by more than half and allows you to select what type of power you want for each output. The FZ-1 is easier to install, reduces the amount of wiring time required and does it in a neat little package. The unit is great for experts who want to simplfy their install and for novices who are electrically challenged.

INSTALLATION

The FZ-1 one was designed to make installation simple and quick. The FZ-1 uses screw terminals for all its connections so that it requies no crimping to install. The installation is as simple as 1-2-3.

Connect battery power, ground and a switched source to the FZ-1 input terminal.

Insert a fuse in the constant or switched power position for the output connected to your device.
You're done. That's it. Ok, so maybe I condensed the installation a little but you get the idea.

You can download the installation document in PDF format.

WIRING TIPS AND OTHER INFORMATION:

How much power do I have?

Before mounting accessories you have to understand how much power your bike's alternator produces and how much of that power is available for you to use. Every bike produces a different amount of power and each bike needs a certain amount of that power to run the bike. Once you subtract the amount of power needed to operate the bike from the total amount of power produced you'll have the maximum amount of power available for accessories. You can usually find out how much power is available for a specific motorcycle by checking online forums having to deal with that bike. Some manufacturers will release this information but often they only give the maximum power generated and not the amount consumed by the motorcycle's operation.

Manufacturer's may give this in amps instead of watts. Amps is the measure of current and watts is the measure of power. Current is the movement of electrons like water moving through a pipe. Power is like electrical pressure or how much energy can be produced by pushing water through the pipe. Volts, amps, and watts are all linearly related and easy to calculate. If you have two of the three you can calculate the other. Since the voltage is usually +12V you can calculate watts from a amps. Watts is volts times amps. This means that if your alternator produces 60 Amps then it can produce (12V*60A) 720 watts (Power/Current Calculator). If you then subtract how much the bike consumes you'll have the number of watts you can use for your accessories.

How much power can I realistically use?

Once you know how much power that is available for use you'll need to figure out how much power your accessories consume. Most devices will specify the maximum wattage the device uses or the maximum current the device will draw. If the device gives a current just multiply the current value times 12 volts to get the power of that device. Once you have calculated the maximum power consumption of all of your devices compare that to what you have available on your bike (Power/Current Calculator).

Wiring knowledge and background

When wiring your bike it's important to know what options are available to do the wiring. Knowing what wiring and connectors to use is important. Other things to consider are how to protect against the weather, vibration and abrasion. Making sure that you pick a wire that is capable of handling the maximum amount of current you are going to be using. A multi-stranded wire is the best to use in these types of application instead of a solid core wire which is used in household construction. Multi-stranded wire is more flexible, can be routed easily and handles vibration better than solid core wiring.

The gauge of wire used depends on the amount of current it needs to handle. The gauge number is opposite of the size of wire though meaning the bigger the wire the smaller the gauge. It makes sense that the bigger wire can handle more current so wiring your fuseblock, lights and heated clothing should use a 12-14AWG wire and use 18-20AWG wiring for smaller devices like a GPS or radar detector. You don't want to push the limits of your wiring so always make sure to leave a little head room and play it conservative.

What exactly is a fuse?

Fuses are something that are commonly used but sometimes not really understood. Fuses are rated in amps. If you want to know what fuse to use with an accessory divide the maximum wattage of the device by the voltage of the bike to get the maximum amount of current the device will use under normal operation. If a device uses 6 watts then it can draw up to (6W/12V) .5 amps. You can then use this value to select a fuse for that device. Typically you are going to use a fuse that is slightly more than the maximum amount of current the device can pull. Since our device is normally capable of pulling .5 amps we can use a 1 or 2 amp fuse on that circuit. (Power/Current Calculator)

One myth about fuses is that the are made to protect the device. Although there is some truth to this it is largely untrue. A fuse only blows because something has happened to the circuit or device to cause it to pull more current than what it is rated for. In this case the fuse blows and disconnects the circuit protecting your power source from supplying too much current. In order for the fuse to blow the over rated current already has to be flowing through the circuit, and/or device which means the fuse isn't protecting it. The fuse protects the power source by disconnecting the faulty circuit. This works much the same way a circuit breaker work on a cheap power strip. It doesn't protect your TV. It protects your house from burning down by tripping the little breaker on the power strip.

When connecting a device to your bike you want to make sure that the fuse is located as close to the power source as possible. The reason for this is that you are decreasing the odds that a short will happen between the power source and the fuse. If your wiring shorts to ground (the frame, etc.) between the power source and the fuse then the fuse won't do any good. By only having a small amount of wire between the connection on the power source and the fuse you decrease the odds that it will short out along that length of wire. A short is more likely to occur after the fuse where most of the wire, and the device, are located.

Plan before you execute

You may be planning to mount one device or several devices. The best approach to this is to mount one at a time keeping in mind the other ones you want to mount after that. Take note of what your accessories need (power, audio, etc.) before you select where to mount them. By doing this you can start to think about where you might need to place a fuseblock or intercom system. Different bikes offer different locations to mount accessories so do some research to find out what mounting options are available for your bike. Once you've decided where you would like to mount your device consider testing that location.

If this is your first time mounting accessories don't get discouraged if your first mounting solution doesn't work. Usually you have to try a couple different times to get it right. You want to take into account how to get power and audio to the device safely. You may need to have it visible or reachable while you're riding. You may also need to protect it from weather and wind. After you've considered all these options you can try mounting the accessory quickly with temporary wiring and mounting. Always make sure it's mounted securely and safely but maybe there's a way to quickly mount it so that you can try it on a few rides before you decide to permanently mount it in that location.

Once you have decided that the location you have chosen will work the next step will be to run power and, if needed, audio to your device. This can present it's own set of challenges and should be should be well thought out before running any wiring that could be pinched or rub against other parts of the bike. Your path may be determined by where you can locate your fuseblock or it may be dictated by where you can run your wiring. Once you've found a location for your device and your power source you're ready to start wiring.

Wire routing and what to look for

When routing wiring you want to take into account moving parts, pinch points, crush points, vibration and weather conditions. Sounds virtually impossible to avoid on a bike but people do it all the time. Some with more success than others. Missing something here will most likely cause one of two things to happen. One, your wiring is cut and power to the device is cut off. This is normally called an open and is the safer of the two failures. The other possible failure is a short which will blow the fuse if it is fused correctly. I short provides a high amount of current in a short amount of time. The increased current blows the fuse. A short typically happens when the power wire for a device comes in contact with ground or a heavy piece of metal like the frame. The wire was most likely pinched or rubbed to the point that the insulation is compromised and allows the wire to come in contact with ground.

There are ways to prevent either of the two above scenarios from happening. Wire loom comes in a few different forms and protects the wiring mainly from abrasion. There's split loom, spiral wrap, expandable loom or braided sleeving, and vinyl tubing. Split loom is probably the most common and is easy to use. It is split lengthwise so wire can be inserted starting at any point along the loom. Spiral wrap is good if you have a bundle of wires that can't be contained within split loom or if the wiring bundle that has things sticking out of it like in-line fuse holders or other connectors. Expandable sleeving is also great, looks clean, and is easy to use. However it has a bit of a draw back. Once you've run it that's pretty much it. If you need to run another wire through it or repair something you pretty much have to pull it all out. It really does look cool though when you get it installed. They do make split loom expandable sleeving though but it's still a bit of a pain to modify once in place. Finally vinyl tubing is typically what manufacturers use when constructing wire harnesses. Unfortunately once it's made that's pretty much it. However, it is very durable and you have a really clean looking solution once it's installed.

Making good connections

Connections are good and bad. You need them but you want to make sure that you use as little as possible if you can. Every time you make a connection you get two things: a connection and a problem. A connections by it's nature is prone to failure from corrosion or poor conductivity. Make sure when you make a connection that it is solid and protected as much as possible. This may mean adding heat shrink to crimp connectors or adding dielectric grease to connections that may be exposed to moisture. Double check connections and make as few as possible. Using the right tools, the right connectors, and the right wiring will make sure your electrical stays in working order.

Crimp connectors drool

Crimp connectors are easy to use and easy to get but are tricky to do correctly. These types of connectors come in a few different sizes for different gauges of wire. A good crimping tool is something that can be picked up at a local hardware store although better ones can be purchased through specialty supply stores and web sites. The toughest part about crimp connectors is making sure that the crimp has sufficiently clamped the wire. You want the wire to be secure and the insulation to be touching the barrel of the connector. Adding a small amount of solder to the connection and adding heat shrink of the connector will help to protect the connection when done correctly.

Locking connectors rule

If you haven't heard of Posi-Locks I highly recommend you consider using them instead of twisting or soldering a butt joint together. These little miracles make it easy to connect to wires securely and reliably. The great thing about them is that they are easy to install and easy to remove if you decide later to do something else with the connection. I keep a couple of each size in my tool kit on the bike for emergency repairs.

Posi-Locks work by removing the caps on either end and threading the stripped end of a wire through each cap. Then by screwing the caps down you secure each wire to the posi-lock pressing the wires up against a conductor in the center of the posi-lock. If you decide later that you want to change the connection or solder it you can simply remove the posi-lock by undoing the caps. The other great thing is that they are reusable. I think they are about the best thing since sliced bread for wiring.

Wire Taps

Sooner or later you're going to need to get power from an existing wire on your bike. If you can get a connection from a connector without having to tap a wire that's usually the best but sometimes there's no alternative. Most often people need to tap into a wire to get a switched power source meaning a wire that has 12V on it when the bike is turned on.

There are a few ways to do this and most people use a scotch lock type connector to accomplish this. These types of connectors actually slice the insulation and possibly some of the stranded wires to make a connection that is then past on to another wire that you then run to what you want to power. These types of connections tend to be pretty unreliable and fail after some time. They also permanently damage the wire and insulation which isn't something you really want to do to your bikes wiring.

Posi-Lock makes another device called a posi-tap that is a much better and more reliable way to tap into a wire. This little device uses a posi-lock on one side to capture the wire you want to power with the tapped wire. On the other side it has a cap with a sharp spike inside it that pierces the tapped wire. It punctures the insulation and makes a good connection with the stranded wiring without cutting anything. If you later want to remove it you can simply unscrew the posi-tap and then cover the puncture hole with electrical tape or a little silicon RTV. That will make sure that the hole is sealed and will not allow moisture to get into the wiring. The Posi-Taps are great little items and highly reliable.

Adding a Relay (Switched Power)

This is probably one of the more common questions asked when it comes to wiring. A relay is nothing more than an electrically controlled switch that allows you to control one circuit by supplying power from another circuit without those circuits being connected to each other. Normally this is done where you want to supply something that requires juice directly from the battery, because it's high current, but you only want that circuit enabled when the bike is on. The relay is an electromechanical switch that allows you to do just that. It has two components: a coil and a set of contacts. The coil is typically connected to a switched source so that when the bike is turned on the coil is activated. When the coil is activated the contacts close on the relay which typically will gate 12V from the battery to a device or fuseblock. Now any device that is connected to that circuit will be supplied directly from the battery when the bike is on.

The great thing about the FZ-1 is that you only need to find a wire that supplies +12V when the bike is turned on. The FZ-1 does the rest for you.

Before you power up

After you have your device wired up double check everything before you apply power. If you're familiar with using a multimeter then use it to check your wiring. Make sure that positive is connected to positive and that the wire doesn't touch ground anywhere. You can do this by making a continuity check between your positive wire and the frame of the bike. It should read like an open (infinite resistance). If it reads less than that down to zero than chances are the wire is touching ground somewhere and you'll need to resolve it before you apply power. If you apply power it would blow the fuse if the circuit is fused. That's why you want the fuse as close to the battery as possible. If the short isn't fused then the short will continue to draw power from the battery to ground at a high rate. Does the term welding mean anything to you?

One of the most common electrical failures is connections. Double check all of your connections. Using dielectric grease is a good way to make sure you have a good connection and it also helps prevent corrosion from moisture. You also want to check any wire taps that you've done. Make sure it's solid and free from vibration. Make sure that the tap is not under stress. The wires should be secured but not to the point of stressing the tap which would cause it later to fail.

Make sure you've connected everything back up properly. Disconnecting the battery is a good thing to do when doing your wiring. When you connect the battery make sure to connect the positive terminal first and then the negative. This will prevent sparks when connecting the battery. Once you've connected the battery you can start checking power. You should be able to see if there is +12V at the constant +12V bus on the fuzeblock. You can also check the ground with a continuity test. Then last part would be to check the +12V switched comes on when you turn the bike on. When you turn the bike you should check your devices. If they are suppose to come and they don't then turn the bike off and recheck everything. You can prevent damaging your devices by using a multimeter to check the voltage at the power connector for your device. Once you're sure the voltage is correct you can connect your device with confidence. Once everything powers up correctly you're ready for a test ride.

Recheck and Adjust

You may not want to button everything back up before you take the bike for a test ride. Sometimes once a device is in place and you've had a chance to ride with it on the bike you may want to move it. You also may want to check to see if your wiring has stayed in place or if it needs to be adjusted. The steering column is a good place for pinch points. Make sure that when turning the handlebars right and left to full stop does not rub or punch your wiring. This isn't always obvious which is why I recommend checking wiring on a regular basis. Every time I do maintenance on the bike I tend to go over all my wiring to see if there's something coming loose or starting to wear from a rub spot. Wiring tends to be an iterative process. You may have to move something around after you have wired it onto you bike. You may have to reinforce your wiring or completely reroute it. Taking time up front will save you from spending an hour in the dark on the road looking for an issue.