Living in Cuba with her husband, CNN correspondent Patrick Oppmann, has been part adventure and part homecoming for Alexandra Oppmann, whose mother was born in Havana but left after the revolution. It’s been three years now and in that time, Oppman, now a mother of two, has learned to navigate the challenges of expat life while immersing herself in a world of salsa, fish tacos, historical mansions and cobblestone streets that harken back to Cuba’s heyday. She even found time to open up a store, named after her oldest daughter Alma, that showcases the work of local artisans. Here, she tells us everything a visitor to Cuba needs to know, including a top secret spot that sells the best vintage in town…

I moved to Cuba because…
Cuba has always loomed large throughout my life. My mom was born in Havana but left with her family after the revolution took place. I grew up hearing stories about her childhood here. Years later, I met my husband in Cuba. With some of the recent changes in Cuba, it has become somewhat easier for foreigners to live here and three years ago, with my husband who is a journalist, we decided to embark on the crazy adventure of living with two kids, three dogs and a pet turtle in Havana.

My favorite thing about living here…
Despite the challenges they face every day, Cubans are warm and welcoming. Our kids run around where we live and know all our neighbors, many of whom have become like extended family. Cubans always have a story, a joke or a conspiracy theory to share. You might run into someone five times a day, but they will still give you a kiss on the cheek and ask you how you have been.

And our biggest challenge…
Simple daily life can be a very big challenge. It’s a surreal and often frustrating experience living in a country that’s been under a U.S. economic embargo for five decades and is only now transitioning from an inefficient, communist-style economy. The supermarket shelves are often pretty bare and you spend a day looking for basic items like salt or eggs. Often we wait weeks for someone to visit and bring us that spare part or cable. But you get used to making do with less and the Cuban term resolver is almost an ideology here. You figure it out.

First time visitors must visit…
La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana are full of collapsing but still beautiful architecture and Cuba’s vibrant street life. There you will see the people who sell items on the black market calling out their wares as they go door to door. You will see kids playing baseball in the street next to their fathers and grandfathers playing dominoes. It is a truly different pace of life than most other places in the world.

For a truly authentic Cuban meal head to…
La Guarida is the restaurant that pushes the envelope of Cuban cuisine while still nailing old classics. La Guarida’s setting on the top floor of a crumbling old mansion in Centro Habana is stunning. As you walk through a grand wooden entrance and up marble stairs to the restaurant, you see Cubans watching soap operas and doing their chores. The restaurant has recently been redone and now includes a rooftop terrace bar that’s great for a pre-dinner drink.

And what to order there…
I love to order the Caesar salad, which is prepared tableside. But whether you have an old favorite like honey chicken with rice and fried plantains called tostones or one of their new plates like the smoked marlin fish tacos, you won’t leave hungry.

If we are in the mood for Cuban music and dancing…
The Teatro Bertolt Brecht has ¡No Se Lo Digas a Nadie! (Don’t Tell Anyone!) nights where the best contemporary Cuban musicians play. Also, the Cafe Teatro Miramar showcases some of the island’s up-and-coming salsa and jazz artists. At both places the music comes first and people will keep dancing until very late.

A truly insider spot no tourist guide will ever tell you about…
Cuba is a great place to shop for vintage goods. any who visit Havana will say it is a city frozen in time, with its vintage cars and architecture. Even though the sale of antiques is not officially permitted, there are several collectors who sell from their homes. The most famous seller of vintage goods is Belkys. Her house is filled with everything from revolutionary memorabilia, Sevres porcelain, furniture, vintage cameras, Baccarat glasses and chandeliers. With some patience and a little luck, there are incredible finds.

The inspiration behind my store, Alma…
I am constantly inspired by the resourcefulness, ingenuity and sense of humor of the Cuban people. If something breaks they find a way to fix it. Items are repurposed, sometimes in brilliant and unexpected ways. They are incredible artisans that often make do with few materials. I wanted to showcase that sense of creativity and the quality of their work in my store.

The item I am most obsessed with in my store right now…
It is hard to pick a favorite. But I particularly love our totes made from plastic pallet ties. They are made by a group of artisans in Havana who recycle pallet ties by weaving them into colorful and stylish baskets. One of our favorite weekend activities with the kids is going to the beach, which you can do almost year round in Cuba. These bags are perfect to carry towels and beach toys because they are super sturdy and waterproof.

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