Remove
membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or
gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

Remove
new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping
of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle
membrane by the posts on either end.

Notice
2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be
lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane
making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You
will feel both "O"-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way).

Once
the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the
tubing to the fitting on the cap.

Mount
RO unit up in the rafters (2 screws) so that filter housings can be removed
easily to change filters.

Install
on/off valve on threaded post on end of storage tank (Use Teflon tape).
Mount the RO water storage pressure tank horizontally up in the rafters
also. We suggest you use at least two ¾" polypropylene hanger straps.
Be sure the unit is secure so it does not fall down, as a full tank of water
weighs 25 LBS.

Run
color coded ¼" PVC tubing to unit as follows:

White or Black:

Raw water
feed to unit

Yellow:

Processed
RO water feed to pressurized water storage tank.

Blue:

Processed
RO water feed to special faucet mounted on kitchen sink.

Red:

RO
wastewater feed to house sanitary drain system.

Note:

A.
If your unit has "nut " type fittings, loosen nut to put in
or take out ¼" tubing.

B.
If your unit has push on fittings, use an adjustable wrench or your fingers
to push locking ring flush with fitting body to release ¼" tubing
so it can be pulled out of fitting. To install ¼" tubing just push
¼" tubing into locking ring on fitting body until tubing bottoms
out inside fitting body so that it doesn’t leak. MAKE SURE END OF TUBING
IS CUT SQUARE.

Install ¼" RO feed "C" type saddle valve on ½" cold water line.
Install after any point-of-entry (POE) water processing equipment (I.e.
Iron filter, water softener, Etc.) you have in the house.

Do
not hook up to hot water line as you will damage the membrane and void your
warranty.

Run
the drain line to the house sanitary drain system. It is best to have an
air-gap connection to the house sanitary drain system. This can be done
by using a commercial air-gap unit supplied by Natures Beverage (Part #14
A2) or purchased locally. You can also just stop the red RO drain line 1/2" minimum above the flood level rim point (I.e. top of slop sink or floor
drain) of the house sanitary drain system connection. The rule-of-thumb
is that an air-gap should be a minimum of 2X the diameter of the units drain
line.

Install
special RO faucet on the sink or counter top. If there is no hole available
use a ¾" Bi-metal hole saw on a wood or stainless steel surface. Be
careful you don’t slip and scratch the surface being drilled. If you have
a corian, granite, marble, or cast iron sink we recommend a special carbide
drill bit (I.e. Relton, Inc.) set be used so the surface does not chip.
If you decide to use a straight ¾" carbide bit, No hammer action, and
proceed slowly minimum chipping should occur.

Plug
in 110VAC-power cord from RO unit into a 110VAC 60HZ-power receptacle near
the RO unit.

Due
to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative
used in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking.
Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until
it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet
and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain
and allow to refill.

The
water is now pure and ready to drink

Enjoy
your new RO unit the water is great. Use it for coffee, juices, cooking,
and watering plants.

Locate
standard saddle type drain connection (Part #31) on vertical section of
1 ¼" drainpipe under sink. Mark and drill a ¼" hole through pipe.
Align hole in saddle type drain connection with hole in pipe and tighten
clamp so that it doesn’t leak. It is best to have an air-gap connection
to the house sanitary drain system. This can be done by using a commercial
air-gap unit supplied by Natures Beverage (Part #31A –for existing disposal),
(Part #31C –replaces an existing vertical 1 1/4" PVC pipe under sink.)

Install ¼" RO feed "C" type saddle valve on ½" cold water line.

Do
not hook up to hot water line, as you will damage membrane and void warranty.

Install
membrane in membrane housing (Part #7, 7A) by:

Remove
membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or
gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

Remove
new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping
of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle
membrane by the posts on either end.

Notice
2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be
lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane
making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You
will feel both "O"-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way)

Once
the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the
tubing to the fitting on the cap.

Place
RO unit under sink on cabinet floor or mount inside on side of cabinet (2
screws).

Install
on/off valve on the threaded post on end of storage tank (use Teflon tape).
Place storage tank under sink on cabinet floor horizontally or vertically
using black plastic support provided.

Run
color coded ¼" PVC tubing, leave tubing as long as possible so you
can remove RO unit from under cabinet for service without having to disconnect
tubing, as follows:

If
your unit has "nut " type fittings, loosen nut to put in or
take out ¼" tubing.

If
your unit has push on fittings, use an adjustable wrench or your fingers
to push locking ring flush with fitting body to release ¼" tubing
so it can be pulled out of fitting. To install ¼" tubing just push
¼" tubing into locking ring on fitting body until tubing bottoms
out inside fitting body so that it doesn’t leak. MAKE SURE END OF TUBING
IS CUT SQUARE.

Install
special RO faucet on the sink or counter top. If there is no hole available
use a ¾" Bi-metal hole saw on a wood or stainless steel surface. Be
careful you don’t slip and scratch the surface being drilled. If you have
a corian, granite, marble, or cast iron sink we recommend a special carbide
drill bit (I.e. Relton, Inc.) set be used so the surface does not chip.
If you decide to use a straight ¾" carbide bit, No hammer action, and
proceed slowly minimum chipping should occur.

Plug
in 110VAC-power cord from RO unit into a 110VAC 60HZ-power receptacle near
the RO unit.

Due
to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative

used
in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking.
Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until
it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet
and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain
and allow to refill.

The
water is now pure and ready to drink.

Enjoy
your new RO unit-the water is great. Use it for coffee, juices, cooking,
and watering plants.

The
standard NB 70 GPD-5S PA shipped assumes that your source water is safe and
potable. A drawn glass of water is assumed to be clear and does not settle out
silt or discolor from iron, manganese, tannins, nitrates, and does not exhibit
any "rotten egg" smell. If the above are met, stage 1,2,3, & 5
filters should last one year and the stage 4 membrane should last two years.
Premature failure of any stage (1-5) component requires a comprehensive water
test to determine what pre-treatment is required to achieve the expected "normal"
service life. Purchase Nature’s Beverage pre-packaged maintenance sets
(Part #70 for stage 1,2,3, &5) or (Part #71 for stages 1,2,3,4, &5)
(Part #72 for stage 4 only) or individually packaged stage 1-5 (parts
#80-84) or purchase locally.

Your
system has a booster pump to yield maximum treated water volume in minimal time.
If you need more RO water, a larger storage tank is required. Purchase Natures
Beverage. (Part#51) or purchase locally.

Your
system has been fine tuned to yield maximum distribution pressure consistent
with efficient system operation with a storage tank static pressure, no water
in tank, of 5 PSI and up to 55 PSI with a full tank of water. As water is drawn
from the water storage tank pressure decreases from 55 PSI down to about 20
PSI and the system turns on to make water, which increases pressure. If you
need or want more water pressure out of the RO faucet, a distribution pump (Part#50)
or larger water storage tank (Part #51) with 3/8" plastic tubing is required.
Purchase from Natures Beverage or purchase locally.

Turn
off ball valve located on top of the storage tank (when turned off, the
valve lever should be perpendicular to the valve body.)

Find
house water feed saddle valve located on a ½" cold-water Iine. It is
the valve that feeds cold water to the R.O. system. Turn the valve clockwise
until it stops. (It may take quite a few turns but it will eventually stop.)

Open
R.O. faucet to relieve any excess pressure still in the lines. You should
get a few drops out of the faucet and then nothing. If water continues to
pour out of the faucet, make sure the two valves mentioned above are closed.

Basement
Installation

Unscrew
the filter housings, counter clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the
top of the system.) If the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

Under
Sink Installation

If
you left the color-coded tubes long enough you should be able to remove
unit from cabinet and proceed to unscrew the filter housings, counter
clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the top of the system.) If
the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

If
the color-coded tubes are too short you will have to disconnect the
RO unit completely (i.e. pull off ¼" color-coded tubing.) and remove
the unit from under the sink and proceed to steps 5 & 6. After step
6, make sure you hook-up all the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly
and put the unit back under the sink and plug it in.

Match
new filters with the existing ones to assure that the new ones are put in
the right canister. Remove and safely discard old filters.

After
installing new filter, check to make sure that the "O"-ring inside
the canister is properly in its seat before putting canister back on the
system.

Once
housings are back in place and securely tightened, you can turn both valves
back on.

Due
to carbon and other normal impurities present in the filters and a preservative
used in the membrane, we recommend that you flush the system prior to drinking.
Once the storage tank is full open the faucet and let the water run until
it empties the storage tank. After the tank is drained, close the faucet
and allow the tank to fill again, (Usually about two hours.) Then drain
and allow to refill.

With
water turned off and system pressure relieved (refer to filter changing
instructions), remove the tubing connected to the membrane-housing lid.

Remove
membrane-housing lid by turning counter-clockwise. A crescent wrench or
gas pliers may be used if housing is too tight.

Notes:

Basement
Installation

It
may be easier to disconnect the RO unit completely, (I.e. pull off ¼"
color coded tubing) and remove the unit from the floor joist and place
on floor to accomplish this. If you do this make sure you hook-up all
the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly after step 6 below.

Under
Sink Installation

If
you left the color-coded tubes long enough you should be able to remove
unit from cabinet and proceed to unscrew the filter housings, counter
clockwise. (Clockwise if looking down from the top of the system.) If
the housings are too tight use the filter wrench provided.

If
the color-coded tubes are too short you will have to disconnect the RO
unit completely (i.e. pull off ¼" color-coded tubing.) and remove
the unit from under the sink and proceed to steps 5 & 6. After step
6, make sure you hook-up all the ¼" color-coded tubing correctly
and put the unit back under the sink and plug it in.

Pull
membrane out of housing. Pliers may be used if membrane will not release
from housing. Pour out any extra water in housing.

Remove
new membrane from plastic bag being careful not to touch the outer-wrapping
of membrane because acids from your skin can damage the membrane. Handle
membrane by the posts on either end.

Notice
the 2 "O"-rings wrapped around the bottom post; these should be
lubricated with Vaseline or silicone grease. You may now install the membrane
making sure to insert 2 "O"-ring end into housing first. (You
will feel both o-rings seat when it’s pushed in all the way).

Once
the membrane is in, put the cap back on the housing and re-connect the tubing
to the fitting on the cap.

Make
sure the RO unit is plugged in.

Always
flush the system when changing the membrane, as the membrane is packaged
in a preservative. Once the storage tank is full open the faucet until the
tank is empty, let the tank fill up again, then empty it again, (takes about
two hours) allow to refill.