Has anyone compiled a list for people about building/flying park flyers?

Such as:
BUILD
o Do not use alot of glue to build your plane!
o use velcro for battery placement allows you to adjust the CG easily.
o build your plane to your flying location - tall grass= no landing gear, want to take off=find a place with dirt or pavement.
o If you glass your plane fly it BEFORE painting!!!!

FLY
o bring along a cooler to place your batteries in to cool them down. They operate better when cooler - and charge better. This works best if you are going to stay and fly alot. If you do this I would recommend NOT putting drinks in there also!
o fully discharge your NiMh and Nicads after flying your plane(Not needed with Lipos). Each time you do not fully discharge your batteries you are decreasing the life. By discharge I mean run till the motor cuts off. It wouldn't hurt to fully discharge occasionally too.
o Know other flyers in the area and talk with them. Find out the freqs they use so that you are not working in your garage and shooting down a plane in the park!
o Check your servos EVERY time you fly. Check for direction - you never know if a reverse switch could have accidentally be thrown on the transmitter. I found a tail hinge that was broken this way.
o Do not fly at populated parks!

I've only been flying for a few months - i'm sure there has to be alot more suggestions.
just some thoughts, any more input?

* GWS supplied glue is good! Use it like contact cement
* GWS hinges are good! Use a drop of foam-safe CA to secure
* CG on most GWS planes are quoted for experienced flyers, you can move it forward 5-10mm
* If you need need to replace a plane, remember that Slope Glider versions are available.

Just a quick comment wrt to batteries though; you don't need to fly till LVC for NiMh or NiCads; just charge and fly. Once in a while you might want to discharge a pack and then slow charge it at C/10. iirc deep cycling batteries (NiCad, NiMh) will decrease the number of life cycles.

As for cooling a pack, DON'T put it in a cooler with ice, etc. You will sooner ruin a pack. Battery packs (esp NiMh) operate BETTER when WARMER. In fact, even if you had just charged a pack 1 hr ago, you can put it back on a peak charger to 'warm it up' - you'll get better performance. Best way to cool a pack is forced-air cooling.

* GWS supplied glue is good! Use it like contact cement
* GWS hinges are good! Use a drop of foam-safe CA to secure
* CG on most GWS planes are quoted for experienced flyers, you can move it forward 5-10mm
* If you need need to replace a plane, remember that Slope Glider versions are available.

Just a quick comment wrt to batteries though; you don't need to fly till LVC for NiMh or NiCads; just charge and fly. Once in a while you might want to discharge a pack and then slow charge it at C/10. iirc deep cycling batteries (NiCad, NiMh) will decrease the number of life cycles.

As for cooling a pack, DON'T put it in a cooler with ice, etc. You will sooner ruin a pack. Battery packs (esp NiMh) operate BETTER when WARMER. In fact, even if you had just charged a pack 1 hr ago, you can put it back on a peak charger to 'warm it up' - you'll get better performance. Best way to cool a pack is forced-air cooling.

Besides, if you put your packs in the cooler, it leaves less room for the beer!

it is common practice to put regular batteries in the refridgerator to keep the charge. I was under the impression that a hot battery does not charge as well as a cooler one. And by cooler i mean not warm to the touch, not cold to the touch.

it is common practice to put regular batteries in the refridgerator to keep the charge. I was under the impression that a hot battery does not charge as well as a cooler one. And by cooler i mean not warm to the touch, not cold to the touch.

that's right
hot or even warm packs are not suppose to be charged, natural temp is the best.