What is the best single distance driver mold that you could get to cover the variety of shots you would use for distance driving? Perhaps using different plastic types to cover the range of stabilities.

victorb wrote:At 350 ft of power, the most versatile discs, when considering different plastic types, would probably be an OLF or a PD.

Third because the PD comes in a variety of plastics and wear from beefy (CFR C)to flippy (P) and QOLF and SOLF 1.2 are more overstable than SOLF 1.1 which can break in slowly but for understable i'd use MOLF. SOLF 1.3 is a crap shoot you might get old 1.1 or something else that i have no idea of because i haven't thrown those.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

Even more with more power but it is not the ultimate straight line finisher given any height. And at such low heights where it lands flat it will need initial hyzer to flip to flat at say 360-380' distance with long discs.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

No. Even if you throw with little power a harder headwind will still make them flippy eventually. With that said Star Valks are the most HSS and LSS and thus shortest Valks and they would handle the most wind. Meaning for a 400' thrower not at all in moderate headwinds. And somewhat unpredictable in mild headwinds.

Flat shots need running on the center line of the tee and planting each step on the center line. Anhyzer needs running from rear right to front left with the plant step hitting the ground to the left of the line you're running on. Hyzer is the mirror of that.

What is the best single distance driver mold that you could get to cover the variety of shots you would use for distance driving? Perhaps using different plastic types to cover the range of stabilities.

For a long distance driver you need a disc which flies a long distance. Nukes go far. Farther than anything else I have thrown.

The wider the rim the farther the glide but the harder to control. Nukes have the widest rim and are definitely hard to control. Just like a sportscar compared to a truck. Trucks are more reliable and easier to control. But trucks won't win the race against a person with a sportscar who has learned how to control it.

Nukes require precision. You must learn the disc. It is my opinion that Nukes are sensitive to the nose angle at release, more so than other drivers. Once you figure this out Nukes go far and very well.

For those with the biggest arms, the greatest power, they have the luxury to dial back to their old reliable pickup truck drivers. The weaker arms (compared to the competition they are facing at the moment) need every bit of power they can squeeze out.

So I can handily compete in Pro Grandmasters (50+) without Nukes (I don't of course, why should I give up the added distance I have worked so hard to learn). In Masters or Open I absolutely have to dial up. I carry 7 Nukes (plus backups) to cover the range of stabilities. This is without going to the related OS and SS molds, which hugely expand the range of stability beyond what is useful to me.

On some shots distance is critical. Sometimes you have to go over or around something to get to a landing zone or within range of a basket. Anytime distance is critical I throw a Nuke.