Friday, November 11, 2011

Go Big or go home...

The blogosphere is buzzing with news that there's no news at Dior. More to the point, it seems that talks between Marc Jacobs and LVMH have stalled. Something to do with his wanting to take the Loius Vuitton team to Dior leaving that house without a floor or a roof. Considering his likely demands for a huge paycheck and the prospect of no engine for that fancy car (LV) Monsieur Arnault is between a rock and a hard place. If in fact Phoebe Philo is happy to sit tight and Riccardo Tisci is satisfied to slowly and carefully turn Givenchy into a wholly irrelevant collection that leaves the track wide open for any number of comers. This is where it gets interesting.

The idea that Bernard Arnault is deepening talks with Alexander Wang, Raf Simons and Jason Wu among others should be a nudge to others to throw in their hats for consideration. Raf Simons is a very compelling consideration if you want to push a modernist's view. Personally, I find it very interesting. The history and DNA of the house has always been about the forward movement of a romantic aesthetic. Certainly, YSL took the house forward breaking new ground with each successive collection. Had it not been for his conscription and eventual breakdown and untimely dismissal the house would have likely gone the way of his eponymous collection. He tore through conventions and layed the paving stones for a truly modern woman. Modern Romanticism is the hybrid he developed. Jason Wu is is perhaps adept at a portion of that equation but not, I fear, capable of any real contribution. That picture would likely be ersatz "Jolie Madame-style" at worst and arch posturing at best. Alexander Wang doesn't register on that radar at all. Plus, I think he's truly happy making play clothes.

So, where does that leave us? There are still other likely suspects who could do interesting things there but the murmurings are so hushed it seems almost as though the question remains an open one. There's no reason for anyone to be shy about this. The market is screaming for someone to take a chance. Risk is something that we face on a moment to moment basis. Fear of failure should be left in your chest of drawers. Surely, there are great imaginations out there just aching for the chance to do something great. The Golden Age of design has given way to a New Age, one that is impatient and filled with nerve. I'm hopeful that something strange and wonderful is waiting in the wings. Here's hoping that the big guys in charge choose talent over talk. We'll just have to wait and see.

13 comments:

Ken
said...

Hi Fluff - I've been puzzled by the lack of buzz about Jean-Paul Gaultier. He may lack the contemporary appeal of Wu, Wang and Simons, but he certainly has the technical ability, experience and talent to pull it off. He did a fine job at Hermes, at any rate. His recent collections haven't been memorable, but the Dior gig could give his creative juices a new boost. I'd be interested to hear what you and everyone else thinks...

Maybe he should hire the winner from "project runway".I am having a hard time taking this " big choice" seriously. I am looking at Europe on the edge of the precipice:First Greece,then Italy, Portugal, Spain and then France. The Euro may no exist by next year, Germany rules again and everyone else tremble. Merkel should be head designer at Dior...At this point of our history does it really matter Who sells handbags to the Chinese at Dior ? I wish I could be still exited about it all,but it is a little too late.No?

If anything Christian Lacroix is a true Frenchman, he should win the competition. I think JPG is too rich and he is already a " Dior" of his own, he does not need Bernard Arnault's blessings. His gig at Hermes was a classy one and I am not sure he should dirty his hands with Dior. But, hiring an Asian gentleman to feed fashion to the Chinese populace would be a great mistake....Wake me up when it's done...

jacobs overdone and such a fake..wu and wang...either one sounds like take out...simons could be but he is soooooo basic...would need to spend some nights in the costume department of the Paris Opera, a sojourn at Versailles and some hrs at Lessage!How do you say opulent?

So, @ Dior there isnt a single person capable to taking up the helm? why is it necessary to bring in an over-paid, over-hyped designer? YSL got the job from Dior himself, why cant an unknown get that same chance? that's the problem with all these conglomerates, they rather stick with a "known" seller than risk an "unknown" because it's all about the bottom line.. so, the same tired 10 designers gets shuffled from one house to the next bastardizing each and every one of them....

Over the last 60 years, we have witnessed the legacy of the Old guard passed along to the upcoming New Guard... Now it seems that there No Guard to move forward... Why else is LVMH funding Central St. Martins? new facilities in part?

I've been wondering why I havent heard more people talk about Olivier Theyskens for Dior. Its a no-brainer. He's so perfect for the job - get him out of Theory and back where he belongs doing uber gorgeous dresses.

Well, he is not going, that is now official.Have a great Christmas Fluff, Holidays can be hard but I know you will be surrounded by the ones you love, so it will be great. We got lights on the palm trees and will watch the stars and drink....