I have a spare set of conti sprinters and gp4000. But open to others. Had FMB silk 23's but had lots of flats.

I worked on the cables, but because all the housings are back behind the head tube and about an inch, it's hard to cut the cable with out a pinch or even shifting a gear at a track stand. I put it back, and ordered some power cordz grommets to see if the is the solution. Wish me luck.

I might have to run carbon housings to stop the kinks if all else fails.

Also the photo of the recommend cable run is of a bike with the housing on the out side of the head tube, see where mine are tucked back down and hidden. That's the real issue!

You could try I-links/mini i-links, I think they would cope with the turn inwards and downwards that you can see on your frame. Make sure you get some shrink wrap protection on the outside of the ilinks though as they scratch the frame (I didnt bother and they go through paint easily, my frame is particularly expensive though so no worries).

I like the zero.7 more and more as I look at your pictures and see the Scarponi frame on the Giro.

...Although I prefer both brake cables run in front - looks cleaner and more traditional to me.

For the rear brake just rotate your bars as far to the drive side as they would ever need to go and then cut to length. Then you know it has just enough. Ferrules add a little bit of length too.

In my professional opinion a standard coiled brake housing MUST be taken to an angle grinder (or at least a file) to produce a perfectly flat surface to mate with the ferrule/ stop. This prevents the primary cause of cable "stretch" as well as decreases friction in the line. Every high quality bike deserves this treatment during buildup, however it is almost never undertaken. For truly precise install, an angle grinder/belt sander is necessary.

I have a special technique that produces a housing end almost as flat as the factory cut, and have found that this trick can yield huge gains in shift/brake performance with all of the major groups, as well as less need for adjustment since the housing is less likely to collapse within the ferrule over time. Obviously this does not apply to your shift housing as you are using segmented housing.

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