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I sent my ECU to AF1 and they fixed it up in a day. Got it back and running much better now. Taking it to the dyno today to blow out the old tires and smooth out a bump or 2 in the factory power curves with the PC3.

Just my experience... that and 5 bucks can get u a latte at starbucks.

Cool. my bike runs well however I have no idea where the ECU is at, nearest dealers are 420 km away.

Mine has Leo Vince speakers on and that is it, stock filter and air entry at the mo, just wondered if map 2 was sufficient after opening up the air etc, I feel I have enough power and it runs as sweet as a nut.

....don't tip toe through life to safely arrive at your death - live fast die young and have a good looking corpse

I've got pwetty Akro speakers on mine and went to the dealer the following day for Map 2. It produced a drastic transformation in the Prila and I recommend you do it. For some reason it made the bike just feel that little bit more powerful, seemed to pulse harder, pull harder everywhere etc... Low end seemed to perk a little and it just seemed to pull much harder, very noticable. As you've probably read when you get Map 2 added you need to sync the throttle bodies too. Personally i'd ride the 420 k's to and from Christchurch to get it done, then you have the perfect opportunity to play with the new setup on the way home. Maybe get a PCIII and get a custom map done whilst you're there... fun fun fun...

I'm no expert by any means and have only gone on what I've read before, but
it does seem that whilst the Axone is hooked up they change the map and then sync the bodies using the Axone tool to within certain values, but I don't think you need to have open cans on the bike to set them. Why it's done, I can't just regurgitate that, have a search, or even check Amauri's sticky thread at the top of the lobby listing for more info. There have been a few discussions about syncing them yourself, quarter turn here, half a turn there, but again, I can't remember what the outcome was.

I'm no expert by any means and have only gone on what I've read before, but
it does seem that whilst the Axone is hooked up they change the map and then sync the bodies using the Axone tool to within certain values, but I don't think you need to have open cans on the bike to set them.

I asked the guys at AF1 the same question and here are my notes: You can get a little difference from the bypass screws but not a huge amount. When they set the ECU to map 2 there was some parameter that is tweakable and AF1 set it to a value that they've been seeing a lot of. At any rate, the before/after difference is HUGE and I fell in love with the bike all over again.

I put the bike on the dyno today... the EGA was on the fritz after a few runs so we didn't finish mapping but the overall smoothness in power delivery on a "zero map" looked reasonable. I think it runs a little rich at the idle (but no popping so what ya gonna do?) and lean up top so there is more power to be had.... YMMV. Hope to get a before & after graph up here next wednesday night.

If you want to reprogram via "mail order" I'm sure you can check with AF1 or PM amauri (or anyone else who wants to chime in). I was in much the same shoes looking at a week or more wait and several hours of driving. The closest dealers... either don't know how to use the Axeone, don't have an Axeone, had a long waiting list (good mechanic is hard to find), or required me to leave the bike for a day and hitch a ride back. I wasn't being picky... my search radius was a 5-hour drive.

As an aside, some of the newcomer dealers that I spoke to in my quest seemed pretty enthusiastic about carrying the line. Many of those guys had the right attitude, they didn't have an Axeone (yet).

Taking the ECU out is a piece of cake. Tools: 8mm, 10mm sockets and combo wrenches, and some hex keys (4mm and 5mm FWIR) Steps: Remove the rear cowl or seat, and the driver seat. Unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the locking assembly for the rear but u can leave the cable attached (just slide out of the way). Remove the toolkit if you haven't already. You will see the ECU right there - it has 2 umbilical cords running into it. There are 3 bolts that hold the ECU in, with nyloc nuts on the underside of the tail... undo those. As you're lifting the ECU up, slide the outtermost point of the ECU-to-umbilical-cord pieces LATERALLY, and the electrical connectors will slide right off. DON'T PULL UP ON THEM, just slide them to the outside and it will pull itself off.

Probably the most annoying thing that could happen while you're doing this is you drop a washer down into the bundle of wires and battery area. If so, extracting it will take a few minutes. Otherwise, you can remove your ECU in under 10 minutes if you know where your tools are.

If you do this via post, whoever does the reprogram can tell you what to put in the box. In my case, it was a note with my info and cell number, return-ship address, and the ECU. I grabbed a small box and the local UPS store gave me some remnant bubble wrap gratis on the way to the post office. Shipping priority overnight insured, and the reprogramming service were under $85 total, took less than an hour out of my day, and I had the satisfaction of being involved and knowing that it was done right.