Trestle on Tenth Restaurant Review

: Swiss food’s reputation in New York lies somewhere between that of German and Tex-Mex on the heartiness scale; there will be oversize hunks of meat, burbling pots of raclette, and plenty of reasons to search out fiber for the week following a meal. Trestle on Tenth streamlines those excessive, ski lodge impulses without abandoning the spirit (or the protein) of a fortifying Swiss meal. Indeed, chef-owner Ralf Kuettel’s dishes will not be mistaken for airy fare. Appetizers range from a crêpinette of spiced pork shoulder with cabbage atop sautéed spinach to crispy duck necks with garlic and anchovy aïoli. If a hearty meal is on the agenda, Kuettel’s culinary skills are exacting in the Swiss way and manage to deliver the goods with a minimum of fuss. What else could be paired with the calf’s liver than rösti (Swiss roast potatoes) and onions? Meanwhile, items like seared scallops are matched with fava beans, morels and artichoke-potato dumplings, pushing the envelope just enough towards (marginally) lighter food. Other entrées include smoked and roasted pork loin with broccoli rabe and flageolet bean salad; duck breast with roasted salsify, chanterelle mushrooms and garlic; and salmon with white turnips, fingerling potatoes, bacon and parsley sauce. It’s calculated all the way down to the austere wood-and-brick décor. In short, Trestle on Tenth hits all the right notes while excising those that don’t fit today’s tastes.