Speakeasy opens in Albany

The Speakeasy, the downstairs bar at The City Beer Hall in Albany, opened Thursday night. As patrons of the former tenant, Ballingers, might remember, it’s a gorgeous space, a grotto with stone walls and a 2-inch-thick bar hewn from Heldeberg bluestone. Handsome new custom booths, barstools and decorative touches have been added.

Befitting the name and theme, it’s all very hush-hush and private-clubby. Entry is via doorbell through a locked door beneath a red light, booths are available by reservation only, there’s a by-invitation members list, use of phones and cameras in the bar is banned, and a menu note says that while The Speakeasy is “open to everyone, it’s not for everyone.” The website is merely a greeting page and place to reserve a booth, and there’s no other presence online, nor any mention on the City Beer Hall site. It’s darn cool.

The cocktail list, under the direction of the biblically bearded Robert Mack, former mixologist extraordinaire at DP/Yono’s, is a marvelous adventure; be sure to try the concoction that includes gin, pickled ramp and a sprinkling of togarishi. The food menu, which I haven’t seen, is said to include a handful of small bites, including a Scotch duck egg. That’s all I need to hear to be sitting there tomorrow night and demanding one.

The Speakeasy is open from 5 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and from 8 p.m. Saturday. The City Beer Hall building is at the corner of Howard and Lodge streets, with the Speakeasy entrance on Lodge.