Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 3:08 am Post subject: If you were going to make a 924 autocross car?

Considering SCCA Solo D Prepared for a stripped down 924 NA (931 and 924S class FP, don't want to go there). What would be the best production year to look for? Desirable options aren't really that important as Prepared classes give a lot of latitude for suspension and chassis. One is stuck with the 2.0L Audi block and intake method. What do you think gents?_________________-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html

From someone who has turned a road going car into to a 100% racer, buy the latest model and best condition car you can afford that fits into your class rules.
The concept of getting a crappy car and fixing it up for racing will cost you more in the long run_________________Over the top of skyline, total brake failure.... hit the wall at over 200 kp/h at the dipper, so anyone who has to brake for the esses is a pussy.
1977.5 Race Car, CAMS Group S Spec
1989 944 Cabriolet

From someone who has turned a road going car into to a 100% racer, buy the latest model and best condition car you can afford that fits into your class rules.
The concept of getting a crappy car and fixing it up for racing will cost you more in the long run

What are currently the top dog cars in DP? Take a long close look and see if you really think you can beat 'em... I doubt it...

The 924S is at least competitive...

And the 924S classes in F Prepared (with 914/6... no way).

In DP the 4-valve per cylinder Miatas are currently dominating the class with one highly prepared 1st gen. MR2 nipping at their heels. 2-valve per cylinder cars have a 10% over-bore allowance but there's a one-to-one weight factor so a stock displacement 924 would have to weigh 1984 lbs. The only advantage I can see for 924 is balance and handling.

I'm currently running a stripped down 914/4, 2056 c.c. build, 140 HP, 140 FP, mostly stock suspension, 8" Dura Lite wheels and having to put in about 400 lbs. of ballast. That car also classes in Heritage Classic Race but that's a provisional class. Just looking at what to do next..._________________-----HAIRY ANT NEST RACING-----
Collecting, racing and restoring Porsches for fun and negative cash flow.
-----Epic 914 race car build----- http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/767721-yet-another-rescue-porsche.html

I am doing it with mine, but kind of a different thing as I don't want to sacrifice streetability and no SCCA rules. I just wanted something cheap to run that handled well, was actually probably more leaning towards an X1/9 but in the less populous midwest you take what you can get, and the 924 does have its charms.

The well driven Miatas, stock or nearly so, we're still much quicker than me. Some of it may be the driver. I have to say I read the driving position isn't that great, and I am usually not that sensitive to that kind of thing, but I do have to have my knees up against the wheel to be able to depress the pedals with full reach and confidence. I got the Porsche optional sport wheel hoping it would be smaller, it is not, maybe it has a deeper dish.

With some suspension adjustments and new front bushings I am hoping to do a little better next time. Good luck hope some of the information/experience may be of some help._________________81 924 (gone, needs replaced)
68 TR250
02 IS300

The key is not the size of the steering wheel, the key is to have a spacer or deep dish wheel. That makes an immense difference on driving position and knee space. Autox is a lot of driving technique, maybe you could get an expert in the passenger seat to help out a bit. And of course, widest and stickiest tyres is essential, +aggressive camber._________________┤79 924
http://www.garaget.org/show.php?car=211
┤80 924 Turbo
http://www.garaget.org/?car=160275