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The flasher is under the dash.If you turn on the signal listen for it's location.Turn on your 4 way flasher and see if the left rear light is flashing.If it's not then replace the bulb.If it still does'nt work after replacing the bulb check if there is power to the socket. Use a probe light.If no power to the socket.There is a break in the wire or worse the signal switch may be the culprit

You need a test light or voltmeter-you cannot do electrical tests without one or the other. Where you start is at the brake light fuse-pull it out and check it. Also use the test light (or voltmeter) to verify that there is power at the fuse-one of the fuse terminals should have power to it, it is hot at all times so anytime battery is hooked up, the brake fuse has power to it.
Next you go to the brake pedal where the brake light switch is. It has a button, when pedal is depressed, the button pops out and power goes through the switch and on to the next...
If you have a high mount brake light, look at it, it should be lit when pedal is down, there is a wire direct from the brake pedal switch to the high mount stop light.
Now on most American made cars, the brake lights and the turn signal bulbs work together, so the brake light wire for the rear bulbs first goes from the pedal switch to the turn signal switch before routing out to the rear brake lights.
Use the test light to verify power is at the brake light switch on the brake pedal, when switch is active, power should be on both sides of the switch.
Next you would check for brake light "power in" at the turn signal switch. Keep following the power path, eventually you will arrive at the rear bulbs. If you pull the bulbs out, you can use the test light to check if power is there at the bulb socket-when the brake pedal is depressed. If these are two filament bulbs and sockets (one filament is for the tail lights, and the other filament is for the combined brake and turn signal filament) you have to be sure you are testing the right socket terminal for the brakes/turns filament.

Buy a cheap test light. Practice with the lead clipped to the negative battery post or terminal and use the tester probe to touch the positive, tester should light up, see how easy? Now when you are away from the battery and looking for a good place to ground your tester, clean off the frame, or clip onto a metal bolt, you have to keep testing until you are sure you are connected to a good ground. If you are under the dash, clip lead to a dash frame or bolt, then touch some of the fuses little ports or slits on top of fuse that are open to the fuse metal inside, to watch the tester light up- the key may need to be in ON, not start. When the tester lights, then you know you have a good ground. Now you can continue with testing.

Turn the defroster on and check for 12v at the connector on the window. If you have 12v, check for breaks in the element (the thin lines running across the window). If you do not have 12v and the fuse is good, the culprit will most likely either be the switch or the wiring.

For the right park light:

Check the bulb socket. You should have 12v at one terminal (with the park lights on) and ground at the other. If the voltage and ground are ok, you either have a bad bulb or possibly a bad socket. By bad socket I mean they can sometimes distort and not allow the terminals to make good enough contact.

If the third brake light is working than we know the fuse is good and the switch is good. The third brake light bypasses the turn signal switch. If the rear turn signals are working than we also know that the wiring from the switch to the rear bulbs is also good. The brake lights and the turn signals are on the same bulb so the turn signal switch is what determines if the bulb gets power from the brake light switch or from the turn signal flasher. If the switch is bad usually the first thing that stops working is the brake lights.

Typically you can wiggle, jiggle, pull, push on the switch lever with you foot on the brake and get the brake lights to work. Sometimes turning the four way on and off several times will also get the brake lights to work. If this is the case than a new turn signal switch will solve you problem.

Is the third brake light working the one up top? If not get a brake light switch check fuses and if the is get a head light switch sound crazy but yes and check circuit boards the bulbs pop in and out of look for tan goop in the sockets

Replace the turn signal switch. Bad contact inside causing a crossing of the circuits. When the turn signal is applied it should open the brake light circuit allowing for just the signal to work. Doesn't sound like the switch is doing it's job.

Did you check or replace the brake light bulbs?It is more common to have burnt bulbs than a bad brake light switch or blown fuse.Do you have orange signal lights and red brake lights at the rear?Then the signal light switch will not affect the brake lights.....but....If they are all red and you use the same bulbs for brake and signal....the brake light wiring goes through the signal light switch and could be affected there.First....check for power getting to the brake light switch......and leaving it with a test light.......then go to the rear....pull a light assembly and check for power getting to the bulbs.no power? follow the wiring back to the switch looking for a bad connection.The fuses and relays under the hood are usually in a black plastic box labeled fuses and or relays.

If the brake light works, disconnect battery negative with ignition key ON and Radio ON, but engine OFF, four minutes after connect Battery terminal, do not panic if terminal sparks wile connecting, *** it well turn ignition key OFF, than start the motor and verify if problem remains