Mrs. Button's Vintage Corner

Friday, 2 June 2017

It is quite normal for me that I get behind my schedule and planned things remain UFOs for quite some time. And sometimes I am so surprised to finish projects in time, that I forget to blog about them, even though I announced them boastfully.

And today - tadaaa - voilà, my finished "Happy Belated Birthday To Myself" skirt. It's basically so belated, that it was finished one month after my birthday - 3 years ago. Frida Kahlo, the Mexican painter and her artwork, are pictured in this fabric. She lived from 1907 to 1954, and her birthday was, what a coincidence, on July 6th - exactly the day when my skirt was finished and worn for the first time out. But as tomorrow is my birthday, this is, once again, a birthday skirt.

For once I didn't want to make a simple pleated skirt, even though it would have been suitable for a folk art inspired fabric. But I didn't want a too bulk skirt, and then I found this pattern in my stash and thought it would look nice. It's a 1949 Simplicity pattern, 3033, it was still in fabric folds (exciting!) and it was quite easy to realise.

On my husband's advice I skipped the pockets. Today I wouldn't ask him, but back then I was still unsure weather it's yes or no to big pockets. Somehow I miss them, as I find myself all too often fiddling with the side seams in search of - obviously non-existing - pockets. Only trouble was - the construction of the waistband respectively the front pleats was somehow wrong. It was not possible at all to make it as described in the instruction sheet. I was wondering if I was too stupid to understand, if my English was not as good as I thought, if I just had misinterpreted something, but then I just realised that there certainly ARE patterns with errors or badly drawed, mismatching pieces. In the end, I just moved the front pleat folds and it worked.

There is also the pattern for the blouse included. I think the version with the huge collar would look nice made from a lightweight, white cotton fabric to be paired with the skirt.

I really love to wear this skirt, the colours are fantastic and great to add various solid tops. On these pictures I'm wearing a self made knit top. The pics are taken by my daughter.

Monday, 1 May 2017

I have a purchased wrap dress by a repro brand, and I love it a lot. For a long time I tried to find a similar pattern, but wrap dress patterns from the 40s are not easy to find. So I tried to make something like a copy of that dress. Which was not easy, as the slinky rayon crepe of the template dress changed shape whenever it was moved.

I should have made a muslin, well, yes, you always should. But I seldom do, and I went right ahead with a gorgeous piece of 1940s fabric. I had to struggle a bit to have enough fabric for all the pieces. Luckily, it turned out quite well. There's only little that should be improved on a next version, and even though the skirt looks slightly too bulky when worn (thanks to my weight gain during the last months), I am really happy how it turned out.

I think the fabric is one of the loveliest I have ever seen, as the colour range is so 1940s! I guess it's cotton or some kind of cotton and rayon blend. Then there's a slight structure to the material similar to grosgrain ribbon. It's marvelous to wear and so soft, although there should be a bit more drape to it for this particular cut.

The dress was finished already in autumn, but because of my medication I put on a bit weight (others may call it fat...), but now that spring is here, it fits better, and I hopefully get back my previous shape.

I wore it yesterday for a trip with my family. Tomorrow, they have to go back to school after their spring holiday, and it was a splendidly sunny day after a week of rain and cold. So we drove to Stein am Rhein, an ancient, tiny town near the Rhine (and near the Rhine falls). It was a bit crowded, apparently many people had the desire to spend this lovely day in a beautiful place. I didn't expect my husband to take that many pictures, I was rather surprised I didn't have to beg him...

We also visited the nearby tiny island Werd that can be accessed only by foot or boat. Having no boat, we had to cross a small wooden bridge, which was quite challenging for me. As soon as I don't have terra firma beneath my feet, I feel totally dizzy. (It get's worse with age...)

Wednesday, 19 April 2017

Ever since I am sewing reproduction vintage clothing, I was wondering if all those astonishing designs could also be made with lightweight knit fabrics, such as jersey. Especially many of the 1940's patterns are suitable for woven rayon fabrics (or even require them), which today are not often available, and if, usually not in the colours or print we would like. Some patterns require also silk or woolen knits which in my country are even more difficult to obtain. Why not replace them by cotton (or even rayon) knits, I was wondering. I never was afraid of sewing knits, as I use the very often for my kids' clothing, and I even have an old, but handy serger machine.

When - slightly more than a year ago - I came across a fabulous post by Laura of American Duchesse about "transforming" vintage patterns to knits, I felt confirmed and was determined to give it a try too. However, despite having a huge amount of cotton knit materials, I felt it should be something that has more "grip" and offers more warmth than t-shirt quality. Ponte de roma, a double knit fabric that is a bit heavier and warmer, is usually a poly-rayon blend with lots of stretch. Being suspicious about poly fabrics, I bought a forest green material on sale and thought if it would go wrong, I wouldn't lose much.

This winter is quite cold compared to others we have had in the recent years. A knit dress would certainly be useful, and yes, wrap dresses are always great to have! I had found this lovely pattern (yes, it's actually a robe) on eBay, it maybe is the only British pattern and certainly the only from this company in my collection. Envelope tattered, it was still fabric-folded. I added only bit width, as I didn't want to stretch out the material too much (all too easily you look like a sausage).

Being not the only one to use knit fabric for a vintage dress pattern, you can find more examples of vintage reproduction dresses, here and here, and this is certainly proof that sewing with knits is not as difficult as many think. I didn't even use my serger, not did I buy the special thread Lauren is recommending.
The only material-related problem was the length of the bodice. I added one inch on the pattern, as it was a bit too short on me, and had to cut off one inch on the finished bodice. Why? Punta de roma is quite heavy, and the weight of the skirt pulled down the waistline. So if you ever sew a dress like that, don't be surprised, but keep in mind that not all knits have the same weight and stretch (some have lots of across, but not lengthwise). This also caused some troubles with the sleeves, they certainly should be more puffed, but the weight of the fabric pulls the sleeve head a bit down. I maybe should add a sleeve head moustache.

I was not sure about the gathered details at the waist and shoulder seams. I have never done something like this before, and the instruction was, as usual, not very detailed. So I marked the rows where I wanted to make the gathered lines, hoping the finished gathers would look regular and neat. They did, and I like the detail that is characteristic for so many 1940's patterns.

The neckline is a bit low, no wonder as the pattern is for a robe that was intended to be worn over a nightgown, therefore I added two press studs for decency. Oh, and I changed the shape of the bishop sleeves a bit and added cuffs so I can wear bangles.

This is an amazingly comfy dress for cold days! The material drapes in a lovely way, if offers warmth and coziness and is quite flattering at the same time.
I made this dress already in late January as my first project for #sewwhatyougot, and I have worn it a couple of times since then. We had almost summery weather the last few weeks, but on Easter winter had a chilly comeback and I was happy I could wear this dress once more.

Monday, 10 April 2017

I really dislike most reproduction labels, and I seldom came across a reproduced vintage style garment that offered a nice design, proper workmanship and good material quality. I do own a few (2 to be precise) items that stand out: a gorgeous "Fleur" dress I bought from Heyday , and a fabulous rayon dress from "The Seamstress of Bloomsbury". Sadly, these are exceptions. I think it's a tragedy that most of the reproduced vintage style garments are made of cheap quality material (polyester!), produced in Asia (under which conditions?), and still cost quite a lot. Then, all too often, seams are badly done, zips are not working or breaking after just a few days, or the cut of the design is so awful I wonder how they could put those garments on the models to make the stock pictures. As I sew, I would like a neat finish, because that's how I would like all my clothing to look like. When a dress that cost twice what I would pay for a true vintage fabric is made in an ugly way, I rather spend my rare spare time to make a dress of my own. And it still looks better and is unique.

Now you may think, "Oh no, not another blog with reviews about off-the-rack stuff". You're totally right. I am well aware that there are bloggers that earn their money by writing reviews, they certainly have a huge experience compared with me, but still, I wanted to show that there certainly are reproductions that are quite OK, even if I still prefer sewing my own stuff. So no worries - this is really an exception, and I only do it because the skirt in question has an issue I gladly could solve with my sewing skills.

So, why at all buy an off-the-rack retro garment when you can sew? Because the design of material is so amazing you just can't say no. When I first saw a picture of the Banned Apparel skirt on IG, I was hooked. I mean, it's a simple pleated full skirt. Nothing so special. But as some of you know, I love everything cowboys, deserts, cacti. Sadly, good reproduction fabrics with prints that have a mid-century vibe are not easy to find, and true vintage ones tend to be a tad too expensive for my purse. I decided to give that skirt a go and buy it. What could go wrong? If it was crab, I could re-sell it. Easy.

But firstI only found pencil skirts made of this fabric. With the help of my lovely UK friend Melanie of Retropoodles, I found a seller in GB that was about to list exactly that skirt. (She searched the skirt, found the slim pencil version and called the shop to ask if they had the full skirt and would ship to Switzerland - honestly, how awesome is the lady? I didn't ask her to do all that, but she did. She's a gem! And have look at her blog - she has the most amazing collection of vintage clothing and is always styled perfectly.) Except that it didn't look exactly like the skirt I had seen before on IG. The placing of the print was totally different and not as nice, as I particularly loved that blue sky around the hips. The IG version looked more like a vintage border print, as the busy part of the border was around the bottom of the skirt, while the top of the skirt was much calmer. But well, you can't have the cake and eat it. Really, what could go wrong? If it was crab, I could re-sell it. Easy.

So I ordered the skirt. (I made a mistake as was thinking in 1940s US sizes and the skirt turned out to be too wide. Duh. Note to myself: you're living in the 21st century.) But I could change that easily. Anyway, when it arrived I was positively surprised by the nice quality of the cotton fabric. It contains a tiny bit spandex, so the waistband may could forgive a bit. The material feels a bit like polished cotton, and it has a nice weight. Not too thin. This skirt could certainly also be worn on colder days with a chocolate brown jumper for example. The seams are more or less well made and neatly finished, even though the item is (sadly...) produced in China. And, best of all - it has pockets!

On the not so positive side is the fact, that due to the design of the skirt with pockets, they cut the print apart and so there are 3 pieces and - obviously, 3 seams. Where the print does NOT match - "of course", I'd like to say, as it's made in China. A home-seamstress certainly would have tried her best to match the print. I don't expect a print to match in the back seam, as sometimes you don't even manage to do that when you make a border print skirt yourself. But there would have been a better way to make the pockets without cutting apart the whole border print. You could easily insert pockets by making a slash from the top only a few inches/centimeters down, which would not or at least not entirely affect the gorgeous print. I just guess it's faster and therefore cheaper to make it that way by joining 3 rectangular pieces. Of course, most people would not notice that there is only half a horse on each side of my skirt and some branches of a saguaro cactus that seem to float in the air. But I do, and some people I know certainly would as well.
Another detail that certainly will turn out to be a quality issue is the zip. It's a very cheap quality. I bought all kinds of zips, and this one reminds me painfully of the lesser ones. I'm totally expecting it to break on any occasion. Preferably when I'm in a hurry and have nothing else to wear. Haha.

Last but not least, this skirt is - short. If you're a small person or like a pinup-ish pseudo-retro style, probably with a petticoat showing from underneath the hem, you could live with a length of 60 centimeters or 23.5 inches. I'm 169 centimeters and love to wear shoes with heels and platforms, and the skirt looks too short on me. So I added solid trims in two different brown shades around the bottom to lengthen it by about 10 centimeters or 12 inches. The "hem" was basically non-existing, means: nothing (I mean NOTHING) to be left out. Looking again at the original stock photo and the length of the print, I am pretty sure there must have been some exceeding material at one point of production. Why on earth was it cut away?

Still, I love the skirt, as it's an amazing print, great colours, and the fabric as such is very nice. Fun thing is: the label says "Iron if necessary", and really, it wrinkles a bit too easily to say such a thing.

A very happy coincidence was, that I had a great cotton knit fabric in my stash that came pretty-pretty close to the blue of the sky in the print. So I sew quickly a wrap top. I had recently tried to design a wrap top myself, only to realize that it was pretty much the same like Gertie's Butterick 6285 pattern I already had in my stash as well. (Note to myself: organise your pattern collection.) When I say quickly, I really mean it. This pattern is made up, if you don't line it and you have no kids or pets distracting you, within an hour. So after my alteration of the skirt and my newly made wrap top I had a complete 50s style outfit. The colours perfectly matched my green and buttersotch vintage bakelite.
I wore it out yesterday (spring is here, and it's almost like summer, sunny and warm). Sadly I have some health issues currently and I have a sleep disorder, that's why I look very tired and wrinkled (and the bright midday sun was didn't help to hide it). "Iron if necessary", I'd like to say.

Friday, 17 February 2017

Yesterday in the late morning I realized with panic that the next day my son will have a carnival party at his kindergarten. More than a year ago I have made a bat or vampire costume for Halloween that still fit him, but would be far too warm to be worn indoors. I love my kids, I love costumes, I love sewing, no question I had to make urgently something new for him to wear.

I had a quick look at some pictures on internet. Having a harlequin print in my stash that was not the best quality, I decided to combine it with a black left-over from another project. As I didn't have a pattern, I was happy to find this early 1950s pattern (could also be late 40s) that also came along with a picture of the back envelope. (I love old patterns as they show the actual pattern pieces.) So it was a "pierrot" costume and vintage - double win!

The patterned fabric was very soft and wrinkles sadly a bit too easily, I guess it's rayon. It would be OK for the sleeves and the pants. The black solid cotton was a tiny bit stiffer, so I couldn't combine the two fabrics and make the blouse half black, half patterned. For this part of the costume I drafted the pattern after the little pattern sketch on the envelop. Sewing pants regularly for my kids, I didn't need a pattern, I just had to make sure the legs would turn out a bit puffier.

I started cutting the fabric at 2 p.m. and finished both garments at 8 p.m. (in the meantime I had to make homework with my daughter, cook dinner, wash some laundry...), so it was a real quick project, and for desert I made the little hat. I ironed some of the patterned fabric on some thick felt (the kind of iron-on material you would use for applications) and made a red pompom. I was very proud as I didn't have to work the whole night through as usual when I do this kind of last-minute projects, and I used all materials from my stash, I didn't have any issues, not even with my certainly not perfect self-drafted pattern, and -last but not least at all - my wee man looked so happy and cute when he put on his costume today. I would say this project counts totally for my “sewwhatyougot challenge, this is no. 2, and yes, I still owe you no. 1.

Edit: For those who, like me, love to dig a bit into the history of patterns...

I looked up the pattern (now that the sewing frenzy for the costume is over) to see if I could find out more about this pattern, and it seems to be very interesting. There was also a children's version, Advanced 707, and both patterns were reissued in the 50s. The first issue was from 1949.

Thursday, 2 February 2017

Each year I have the same resolution - sew more, sew from what I got (patterns, materials) to reduce my stash. Currently, sewing is almost impossible for me, as I have no sewing room. I had one. Now it's stuffed with boxes and clutter I don't know where to put, as I was supposed to move downstairs into the basement. However, my husband was so busy with his work that he was not able to prepare the basement. So I'm caught between two stools, and the unavoidable projects are made on our dining table.

But I really need more clothing. Less fancy dresses, but practical ones for everyday wear. (Saying this, I have to laugh. Wearing a dress in my village causes always comments like "Are you going to a special event?") Basics like jumpers that I can wear with trousers. And trousers. Especially now that we have, after many years of warm winters, freezing temperatures ands now again, I realized how little separates I have that I can wear when I'm outdoors.

I love sewing challenges. Especially when there's no time limit, but still, a tiny bit of pressure is always good for me. The projects that others finish are the best motivation to compete and complete. And this one is wonderful, #sewwhatyougot, as it also helps to downsize my stash. Being in the middle of a move, I always wonder how I ended up with THAT MUCH material. Years of being crafty I guess. Being a hoarder collector of beautiful supplies. The advantage is, I can use so many fabulous materials and patterns I have since years!

So, let's start! First of all, I want at least two wrap dresses for the cold season. I have a forest green ponte de roma knit that I want to try on a vintage pattern, even though the pattern requires wovens. (I have seen very inspiring vintage dresses from knit fabrics here and here.) So I combine the knit fabric and the wrap style in my first project, and I'll make anther war dress from another material.

I would not be me if I didn't have already some ideas for dresses in my mind. Yes, I said less dresses, but I have so many fantastic patterns, and nice materials, it would be a sin!
I gave this pattern to a friend, but asked her if I could make a copy for my own use. It's a Swiss pattern! And the shirred parts are just made by sewing rows with elastic thread.

This is the fabric I plan to use! It's a 1940s rayon crepe, and I feel a bit nervous about cutting the pieces, as its rather slinky. Look at the print - Asian people, what looks like pagodas, too cute! I even have another piece of it in a different colour. This will make the most comfortable summer dress!

And then there's this one. We thought we would attend to a wedding last year, but then we didn't. I had already chosen this lovely koi fabric for one of the following patterns. But never managed to start. Now, new year, new luck!

In the meantime, it will certainly soon be spring. And in spring, there's a lot of outdoor work for me, so some trousers or even a pair of dungarees would be handy. And what about a cool cropped jacket for the cooler spring and summer days? This one could be made from a sturdy, yet not too heavy woven material, I have plenty of this kind in my stash!

Getting older, I feel like I should wear pajamas and robes again. I realised that especially robes are very useful in the morning while I help the kids to get ready for school. They are decent. I don't like to open the door to the postman in a worn-out t-shirt and joggers. I'm not yet sure weather it's going to be a 50s or 40s pattern (why not both?). And isn't it lovelier to go to bed in a cute pajama or nightgown? I'm going to sleep twice as well!

My robe will be made from this amazing cotton sateen I bought some time ago. A bit heavier, it will make a wonderful staple for the cooler days.

Last year I was lucky to find feedsacks with prints that are so totally up my alley. Mexico and Venice! As these come only in smaller pieces, I first had to find suitable patterns, so these will be some of my projects as well. Perfect for summer!

As you can see, I love to pick matching jewelry even before I make the garment!

Seeing that winter this year is rather cold I had planned to finally sew a lined coat after one of my many vintage patterns. But I guess it would be better to start that one in autumn, so it would be (hopefully) ready for next winter. After my last project I feel quite confident I could do that. I have tons of heavy woolen fabric in my stash, I just need to pick a pattern.

I guess, I will end up with more than the required 8 projects, but I'm already so much looking forward to seeing what all the other ladies will sew. I will not have to fight with timelines, but still, a tiny bit of pressure to show your progresses and your finished garments is perfect for me.

About Me

This blog is like my grandma's box of buttons - mostly from earlier decades, some new ones. Being crafty ever since, I made all kind of crafts, but mostly sewing. Over the last few years, I became a vintage-fabric-and-pattern-addict.

I'm living in Switzerland, in a small village, with my Italian husband and two marvellous kids in a small house with a big garden, growing more than 100 roses.