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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 3. Remove button-head screw (A) that attaches battery cover (B) to battery tray (C). 2. See Figure 1. Remove battery cover by lifting it over the two tabs on the battery tray. NOTE The original equipment battery cover trim has four pinch tabs on the reverse side that attach it to the battery cover. 3. See Figure 2. Remove original equipment battery cover trim from battery cover by pushing the four pinch tabs out of the battery cover using a pliers or suitable tool. INSTALLATION 1. Place battery cover over the two tabs on battery tray (C) and attach it to battery tray with button-head screw (A). Tighten screw to 20-40 in-lbs (2.3-4.6 Nm). 2. Obtain chrome battery cover trim (1) from kit. 3. Using a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol/water solution, thoroughly clean the surface where the chrome trim will be installed. Let it dry completely. NOTE Test the trim mount fit prior to removing the adhesive backing from the chrome battery cover trim. 4. Remove adhesive liner from the chrome battery cover trim. NOTE The ideal temperature should be at least 60° F (16° C) for proper adhesion of the chrome trim on the battery cover. 5. Center and install chrome trim onto the battery cover. Apply firm pressure for one minute using a cloth to prevent scratching the battery cover and battery trim. 6. Let the adhesive cure for 24 hours at no less than 60° F (16° C)

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Quiet cores are supplied with this kit but not installed. To install the quiet cores remove both rear end caps ((turn downs) and install the quiet cores with the tubes facing inward. Re-install the end caps. REMOVAL Remove seat, disconnect attery and remove. Remove front fenders and side skirts. Remove fuel tank (make sure to shut fuel off and drain remaining fuel in the line before removing). Remove stock muffler first, then remove stock headers. Retain the 4 stock header bolts to install on your new exhaust system. Remove the rear bolt from your stock air box. Loosen stock intake clamp at carburetor. Remove stock boost bottle from the side of the boot. Loosen stock snorkel clamp at the air box, remove stock retaining clip at the front of the snorkel. Remove stock air box, intake boot and snorkel together from the ATV. Slide tarter solenoid off of stock mounting prongs. Remove Phillips screws from fuse holder and remove from plastic housing. Remove plastic battery housing from the ATV. Unplug tail light from harness. Unclip harness from the 2 clips above the battery. CARBURATION Now would be a good time to replace your stock main jet, with the supplied 190 main jet and replace your stock pilot jet with the supplied 48 pilot jet. Make certain that all hoses are tight and routed as stock. Be certain carb clamp is tight when re-installed. INTAKE BOOT Remove the intake boot from the stock air box. Take an exacto knife or razor blade and trim off the rubber piece that the hard plastic snorkel slips into. Trim around the intake boot staying the same distance as the rest of the lip. Take a hax saw and cut the groove as the rest of the boot is, being
careful not to cut all the way through (Picture Fig.2).

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Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the

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Place the motorcycle in a vise or on it’s kick stand and make sure it is safe and secure. NOTE: If reusing the stock midpipe and muffler, skip ahead to step #5. 2) Remove the rider and passenger seats. Unplug the tail light, license plate light, and turn signals wires inside the tail section. 3) Remove the four bolts that secure the tail section to the subframe. Carefully remove the tail section from the subframe. 4) Remove the four bolts that secure the license plate/turn signal mount to the subframe. Remove the mount from the motorcycle. 5) Remove the upper and lower front fairing pieces. 6) Remove the two bolts that attach the right side footpeg assembly to the motorcycle. Disconnect the rear brake light switch and swing the footpeg assembly out of the way. Remove the outer plastic foot guard. Remove the aluminum heat shield from the motorcycle. 7) If equipped, remove the o2 sensor from the stock midpipe assembly.
NOTE: If reusing the stock midpipe and muffler, loosen the midpipe mounting bolts, and loosen the clamp securing the headpipe to midpipe connection. Skip ahead to step #9 8) Remove the midpipe mounting bolt, located on the right side of the subframe. Remove the
muffler mounting bolts. Lower the muffler and remove the rear exhaust section from the midpipe. 9) Remove the eight hex flange nuts securing the header flanges to the cylinder. 10)Remove the bottom header mounting bolt from the midpipe assembly. Remove the complete header from the motorcycle. 11)Remove the hat washer and rubber grommet from the stock midpipe assembly. Install the rubber grommet and hat washer into the hole provided on the Jardine midpipe assembly. 12)Slide the four headpipes into the new collectors. The headpipes are numbered from #1 thru #4, with #1 being the furthest toward the left side of the motorcycle, then work your way to the right. Do not install the provided springs at this time