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Marko, do you bevel the knife all the back to the tip of the tang on the Japanese style knives like they do on Japanese swords or is there a plunge line there somewhere that I can't see?>

Originally Posted by Marko Tsourkan

Thanks Harald.

Now that I am in this thread, here is a quick run-down where I stand with the pre-orders

I finalized a heat treatment method #1 that resulted in a very stable edge that is easy to sharpen and has excellent edge retention (one of my knives has been used in a pro kitchen since July 25 and has not needed resharpening, just one retouching on leather loaded with 2 micron silicon carbide and the edge came back to shaving condition)

I am also working on a heat treatment process #2 that would retain a stable edge, easy sharpen-ability but would increase edge retention. So far the indications have been that the heat treatment is on target, but I wouldn't know it for certain until the knife has been tested in a pro kitchen as well as on a rope-cutting test. So #2 is on hold for now.

I finalized profile, geometry and finish for the gyuto and working on a suji (two lengths), 150mm petty and 180mm gyuto.

I like to keep the weight of the 260mm (on the edge) gyuto under 225g with the handle so it is light and nimble. At the same time, it is over 3mm thick at the handle, and 1mm .75" from the tip, so it's a pretty rigid knife. I will grind a suji with more flex near the tip, but a gyuto (unless requested) will have very little or no flex near the tip and ZERO flex at the handle.

Finish is going to be similar to Shigefusa kasumi line with horizontal finish lines, rounded choil and spine.

Grind will be shallow convex with thickness above the edge under .010. This is more of a Carter-like than Shigefusa-like grind, but I think it will complement the lightweight of the knife well. It should cut well. I am also considering doing an asymmetric grind (for right hand users first and then maybe left), but would need a feedback before offering it as an option. I am sending one out to evaluate fit, finish, grind (includes asymmetric) early next week.
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I grind to about .015 at the edge and then take to stones and remove the rest by hand. I have a better control over the angle, and though it takes much longer than on a grinder, I like the result better. I think this is what puts Shigefusa apart from many Japanese makers - no over-grinds, uniform bevels, etc., and I will try to replicate that. There is a learning curve to this, but I am in for a long haul, I hope.

As far as sharpening is concerned, I converge two planes to zero degree and then put a small micro bevel and polish it. I use a mix of synthetic and natural stones, but the resulting edge should be over 6K. If you like wider bevels, you will welcome to put on your own.

Working on D handle. A little bit of a learning curve, but should get good results within day or two. Octagonal doesn't need any improvement, I think.

Logo is finalized and will order stensils today, so will get them by then end lf the week. I have the etching machine already.

I will start working on a pass-around knife withing a week or so (still getting feedback). I feel pretty confident about my HT and the rest, so if the brave ones of you want me to start working on your knives before the reviews, please let me know.

Here are the pictures of a knife I am sending it for evaluation for grind, fit and finish (as well as sharpen-ability and edge retention). This was an experimental grind (an asymmetric grind) and experimental heat treatment, and it is a bit narrower than a standard (learning experience). In any event, this is a practice knife for testing processes and I accomplished that.