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My T Maxx rebuild and upgrade.

What's up everyone my name is Daniel and it's been a while since I've really been on here. I decided to pull out my Pro.15 Maxx and upgrade it since my friends started buying new Maxxes and Revos. I'm not an expert at this so there will be questions. So far I picked up some RPM 2.5 a arms for the front and installed them.
Before
During
After

So last night I picked up some 3.3 axles and toe links. But I'm not sure if I want to go with the true track conversion or just another set of a arms. Another thing I'm stuck on is should I use some stock 3.3 carriers or go with the RPM carriers. That will be my next purchase.

You can get Tru Track but it's in the rear so it doesn't get as much abuse, so that's your choice. As far as the axle carriers, get the ones from Tekno. It's probably not such a big deal, but I heard that on the RPM ones, the pivot balls can slip out of the hole because of the semi rubber like qualities of the RPM plastic.

You can get Tru Track but it's in the rear so it doesn't get as much abuse, so that's your choice. As far as the axle carriers, get the ones from Tekno. It's probably not such a big deal, but I heard that on the RPM ones, the pivot balls can slip out of the hole because of the semi rubber like qualities of the RPM plastic.

By the way, love the body

+1 the RPM carriers are made from the same flexiing plastic they make for all their other things... Pillow balls pop out because of this... I just use stock carriers with the RPMs... NOt heard any complaints about the True Tracks... I race and prefer being able to adjust the toe, which is the only thing that I do not like about them is this is not an adjustable item.

Re: My T Maxx rebuild and upgrade.

Just thought I'd chime in on the rpm carriers. Put some on my maxx last night and had a hard time getting the pillow ball retainers to screw into the carriers without crosdthreading. After messing with them for 15 minutes and alot of profanity. I finally got them in. I'm curious how well they'll hold up. I had the problem with the pillow balls poppong out on my mini revo and ended up going with aluminum. the plastic is really soft.

Here's a thread from '08 about it:http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rrier-Ring-Mod . On another one, I saw someone say that they just used the rings that are inside the stock traxxas ones. Personally, I would either use aluminum(if there are some that are NOT Integy?), the stock Traxxas 5334R's, or if you would feel like tinkering a little, the Tekno is still the best from what I've heard, and I'm not sure if this kit has all of what Snook is talking about to make it work:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQVgMgodmEEASw

Here's a thread from '08 about it:http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rrier-Ring-Mod . On another one, I saw someone say that they just used the rings that are inside the stock traxxas ones. Personally, I would either use aluminum(if there are some that are NOT Integy?), the stock Traxxas 5334R's, or if you would feel like tinkering a little, the Tekno is still the best from what I've heard, and I'm not sure if this kit has all of what Snook is talking about to make it work:http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FQVgMgodmEEASw

Thanks for the info. I think I made up my mind. Going with RPM a arms all the way around and Traxxas 5334r carriers.

Yeah, they're ACNCM, really good quality as they're machined and not cast. There's also a set of just the fronts, and a set of just the backs for $20, so you could get aluminum in the front because the back doesn't get as much abuse.

Nice! I'm eager too see how it turns out. I was asking about the chassis because I heard that with the 3.3 motor it's real hard to control using the original chassis. Can"t imagine the 3.3 motor being that much more powerful? Then again your truck looks much wider with the new RPM's. How much width do you gain? Heck I'd rather stick with the original chassis too if I can get the same width and stance as the new version Tmaxx. Not too concerned about height I guess. Post more tips if you got em.Good luck!

Well I'm only going with the 2.5. Seems like doing the 3.3 requires more mods than just running the 2.5. As far as width I'm not sure because I didn't measure before and after but it's as wide as my buddy's new 3.3 Maxx just not as long.

The ACNCM bulk are bullet proof. A little heavy but if your going to bash the work. They made a nice chassis at one time as well. I had a hard time with the RPM carriers to a point I stripped several and said the heck with it and used the stock ones.

The ACNCM bulk are bullet proof. A little heavy but if your going to bash the work. They made a nice chassis at one time as well. I had a hard time with the RPM carriers to a point I stripped several and said the heck with it and used the stock ones.

Yeah I've heard nothing but good things about the bulk heads. Going to hold off a bit on those but definitely getting some. After hearing alot about the RPM carriers I decided to pick up a set of stocks.

Hey Big Chika. Loving that wide spider like stance! if its not too much trouble can you list the part numbers for your suspension upgrade? I have thew same chassis and want to widen the stance myself. Thanks!

This is what I got from RPM support. Instead of the true track system in the rear I went with another set of a arms and got traxxas carriers. You could find everything on ebay.
The RPM part numbers you'll need will be as follows:

RPM Products you'll need:
2 - #80462 - Black A-arms (these will be used on the front of your truck)
1 - #80582 - Black Axle Carriers (these too will be used on the front of your truck)
1 - #80942 - Black True-Track Kit (this will cover the entire rear end of the vehicle)

Question. So you didn't go with part #80942? That's the TRu-Trac system right? You just added 4 more A-arms for the rear? What about the carriers? You did go with the RPM's? I didn't see the traxxas part number for that. Thanks!

After two birthday parties and a science experiment I finally got to work on it around 9 pm.
Front axles, carriers and toe links installed installed.
Rear done
After a few hours because I battled with a shock screw that didn't want to go in I finally got everything put back together and shell back on.