Figuring voltage, current requirements for surge protecting amps?

I am searching for a surge protector to plug my amps into. How do you figure the total rating for this unit if I want to plug these amps into it?
1. ATI 2505 - 250w X 5 into 8 ohms
2. ATI 1502 - 150w X 2 into 8 ohms
3. Crown K2 - 500w X 2 into 8 ohms
Does this rating change if I power 6 and 4 ohm speakers, thus changing the output wattage of each amp?
Finally, can anyone recommend a surge protector that I can use for this application which supports the 20 amp plug that is on the ATI 2505?
Thanks for your help!
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Take Care,
merc

John: The numbers you have posted for your amps are not complete enough to total up the total draw of your equipment. To say that your 2505 can produce 250w into 5 channels does not mean that it needs 250*5 or 1250 watts of power at 120v to do it. Also, this does not include power consumed by the amp, but not produced as "speaker output power".
Perhaps a better way is to determine your needs is to look at the back of the amps somewhere near the little "UL" or "UR" symbol. It should tell you how much current (in Amps) the entire amplifier draws under full load. This is a good starting place. Remember, thought, that if one of your amps says that it needs 5A at 120v, it will not be drawing that 5A on a continuous basis. Rather, 5A represents the maximum current draw if you are running your amps FULL TILT ALL OF THE TIME (which I might doubt...). So if your equipment adds up to 30A, you can (probably) safely get by with a 10A or 15A surge/filter.
Since the current draw indicated on the back of the amp indicates its maximum, that will automatically include extra juice needed for driving 6 and 4 ohm loads.
Finally, I don't have any idea of a filter that will accept the 20A cord from the 2505...
Hope this helps a little!

The "Richard Gray's Power Company" (RGPC) model 1200S has 12 Hubbell 20 amp outlets and is rated at 20 amps.http://www.richardgrayspowercompany....cts/index.html
Burke
PS -- I am pleased with the two RGPC Model 400s I am using in my HT. In addition to other operational benefits day-to-day, they "saved" my connected equipment during an electrical storm that took out my central air conditioning system earlier this year.

Burke: Thanks for the ideas, and I would love a 1200s but $2K is a bit much for me. The replacement cost for my amps is only $3600 and my homeowners insurance deductable is only $500, so I'd like to keep my cost down below $500 or so. I may have found an answer with the Brick Wall PW2R15 plus a Brick Wall PW2R20 units. I can plug both into my dedicated amp circuit and then plug my K2 and ATI 1502 into the 15 amp unit and my ATI 2505 into the 20 amp unit. Best of all, they will cost me less than $400 delivered.
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Take Care,
merc