We've stocked up on new coffee-related gear for 2014, including new T-shirts, totes, and a new mug. Drawing from our extensive Counter Intelligence curriculum, we selected a couple original art pieces for these useful expressions of coffee obsession. One cleverly illustrates the proper extraction ratio for pour over coffee (roughly 98% water and 2% coffee), while the other demonstrates level tamping, a crucial element to pulling a good shot of espresso. Available now!

Where We Started

As many of you may recall, we started an inquiry about microlots back in the Winter of 2011 when we spoke with 13 farmers from the Cenfrocafe in Peru about their experiences. While we learned a lot, one of the major challenges with this study was that none of the producers interviewed had repeat success as microlot producers. The common sentiment that microlot premiums were a result of luck was understandable but did not point – from a quality perspective – to how we could encourage other producers with concrete suggestions. And, we knew that producers with repeat microlot premiums exist in other areas where we purchased.

Phase II

While we felt we received valuable feedback from our partners in Peru, we were still looking for more streamlined feedback for producers. Ideally we would have more quantitative metrics in regard to farm and investment practices – as well as greater proof of the positive impacts of microlots. So, with this in mind we hatched a plan with one of our exporting partners, Virmax, in the fall of 2012. As a purveyor of microlot coffees who have built their business model on high-quality, differentiated small lots, they had many of the same questions we did about the repeatability and common characteristics of microlot producers. This time, because of Virmax’s long-established, data-rich microlot program in Colombia, we decided to focus our inquiry there. What made this group different as well was that all producers interviewed were previous recipients of the microlot premium.

Together, we designed the survey instrument (going through about seven iterations) and helped train promotores (technicians) who would be going into the field to interview producers. From January – February of 2013 surveys were administered, and, at the end of February, Kim Elena visited some of the producers interviewed, as well, to gain more of an understanding.

Analysis

The spring found us realizing just how much data we were now sitting on with 122 coffee producers interviewed. Though starting to sift through the data was fascinating, neither one of us had the time or the full expertise to do the analysis required for a study of this scale. So, thanks to a mutually serendipitous meeting, we were able to partner with Ruth Ann Church, a woman who is both a coffee buyer – who also buys from Virmax – and who is currently working on her Master's Degree in Community Sustainability, to assist in the analysis and reporting part of the project. Ruth Ann and I recently did a live webcast moderated by Kim that talked about the research process and further research questions that you can check out anytime.

Similar to the first phase of research, much of what we heard about good practices was no surprise. However, the data did begin to point to what microlot producers may have in common with one another, both in their farm practices and in their use of the extra income from the premium.

In particular, the data showed the group of farmers that had 3 microlot years in a row as opposed to 1 or 2 microlot premium years were more likely to fertilize based on soil analysis, use family members for coffee picking, prune intentionally, plant the Colombia variety, and use three specific drying practices (sliding roof, parabolic patio with beds, and patios with net floors). In addition, they are more likely to invest the premium back into on-farm costs, such as fertilizer, than in family needs.

While the data points to some interesting results, there is still more to understand. In particular, understanding exactly which practices are strongly correlated with – not just happening alongside external factors we may not have controlled. An example here is that yes, those who sold microlots 3 years in a row seem to plant more Colombia variety when they are renovating. However, we also know as an aside that Colombia variety does not necessarily result in flavors that we would reward for quality. Thus, we will continue to refine, to filter results through what we know, experience and continue to expect. And, hopefully get still closer to sharing pertinent feedback with producing partners.

The open-ended questions allowed us to get at the experiential side, and we were pleased to continue to understand producers’ motivations, challenges, and higher level perceived community impacts of the microlot premiums. I'm Colombia now sharing the results and hoping to gain still more analysis based on producers’ reactions to the research.

What’s Next

I don’t think either one of us could have imagined that when we embarked on this "microlot question" in 2011 we would be here now – with a lot more information and still more questions. Ideally, what we have put forth over the last two years encourages others within the coffee industry to ask the questions they have always wanted to ask, to find answers that will ultimately be of benefit to those throughout the supply chain. We are also more than happy to be available for others who have questions about the process, about how to create their own mini-research project, or about our findings in general. Read on for the full report!

What a week it has been; I hope you're all staying warm. Life continues apace and there are coffees for us to taste, so let's hop to it!

There's not a lot I can say about Valle del Santuario that you haven't all heard before, given the number of times it has appeared on our cupping tables over the past seven years. Our relationship with the Cenfrocafe co-operative of San Ignacio, Peru, is one of our strongest, but it hasn't always been that way - in late 2008, after our second year buying coffee from the five communities of the valley, the coffee department had a serious conversation about whether to continue working with the cooperative because we had heard rumors that they hadn't distributed price premiums in a timely fashion and growers felt dissatisfied. We opted to continue because we were able to address our concerns with the cooperative and, five years later, I'm glad that we didn't react to a rumor we heard through an importer and opted to be patient, work on the relationship, and commit to better, more frequent communication in the future.

Our next coffee is a good one to follow on the heels of that story because Remera represents a long-term bet still in its early stages. We have known Epiphanie and her son Sam, owners of the Bufcafe and Remera mills, for many years, but it was Tim's trip in 2012 that opened our eyes to the family's potential as a collaborator as opposed to simply a supplier. Last year's Bufcafe Natural Sundried was a runaway hit and a subject of much curiosity, especially - judging from online ordering records - among coffee industry folks, and although the washed coffee we're buying from Remera is more in line, flavor-wise with what you might expect from another very good Rwandan coffee, it's still a treat and it's got a lot of potential for growth. Sam is a regular fixture of coffee department discussions as someone who represents the next generation of producer-leaders both in terms of his youth and his vision for quality. His quality improvements and his experiments with sundried naturals continue (we have our fingers crossed that we'll have some sundried natural coffee from Remera in a couple of months). Also, Sam plans to attend the conference on potato defect that we'll be sponsoring with a portion of the proceeds from sales of our holiday coffee, which we are hopeful will help us make progress against this frustrating obstacle.

Last but not least, we have Buziraguhindwa Natural Sundried, which we've been brewing more than ever since it showed so well in competition last weekend. We have been waiting two years for this coffee experiment to materialize and while it paid off handsomely, we have certainly had fits and starts along the way and questioned whether or not the potential was worth the time, effort and, one year, the financial hit of the coffee arriving unsellable. The clean but intense fruit in the flavor of this coffee, however, makes it all feel worthwhile because despite the fact that we don't buy a lot of this style of coffee compared to washed coffee, we do want to have more options than just Ethiopia for this flavor profile and in order to get there, we have to build it patiently and take the long view.

We're super-proud of all of the competitors at this year's Big Eastern coffee competitions – which included the Southeast and Northeast Regional Barista and Brewers Cup competitions. And, we are, indeed, incredibly honored to have 29 talented folks representing our coffees. In addition to two top place finishes – see below – eight competitors made the finals of the Big Eastern competitions using our coffees.

Erika Vonie of Ultimo Coffee in Philadelphia took second place in the Northeast Regional Barista Competition (NERBC) with coffee from our Tairora Project from the Eastern Highlands, Papua New Guinea. Corey Reilly of Everyman Espresso in New York finished in third place in the NERBC using Mpemba from Kayanza, Burundi.

In the Northeast Regional Brewers Cup (NERBrC), James Klapp from Ultimo Coffee in Philadelphia came in second with Idido washed processed coffee from Yirgacheffe, Ethiopia. And, Alyssa Azizi of Pavement Coffee in Boston rounded out the NERBrC finalists in sixth place with La Golondrina from Popayán, Colombia.

In the Southeast Regional Barista Competition (SERBC), independent barista Dawn Shanks from Washington, DC, used Counter Culture's Biloya Natural Sundried to earn a third place finish. Tim Jones of Jubala Craft Coffee in Raleigh came in fourth in the SERBC using a blend of Idido washed and Biloya Natural Sundried. And, Nathan Nerswick of 5&10 in Athens, GA, rounded out the SERBC finalists in sixth place.

Krisann Freilino of Peregrine Espresso in Washington, DC, earned the fifth place spot in the Southeast Regional Brewers Cup with Tsheya from the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Other dedicated coffee professionals who used our coffees, included Patricia Bruce of Pavement Coffeehouse in Boston; Matthew Bryce of Peregrine Espresso in Washington, DC; Steph Caronna of La Farm Bakery in Cary, NC; Andrew Cash of Jubala Craft Coffee in Raleigh; Seth Cook of Northside Social in Arlington, VA; Couper Cox of 5&10 in Athens, GA; Helen Flowers of The Morning Times in Raleigh; Tommy Gallagher of Counter Culture Coffee, NY; Jennifer Hall of Sola Coffee Café in Raleigh; Tery Honeyghan of Peregrine Espresso; Dylan Jung of High Five Coffee Bar in Asheville, NC; Dylan McFatrich of The Morning Times; Trevor Patton of The Morning Times; Joe Quinlan of High Five Coffee Bar; Katie Rant of Sola Coffee Café; Bobbi Jo Vandal of Pavement Coffeehouse; Amanda Whitt of Everyman Espresso; and James Yoder of Not Just Coffee in Charlotte.

And, as mentioned on Monday, we are extremely proud that Team NYC's J. Park Brannen won the Northeast Regional Barista Competition and Team Durham's Jonathan "Peaches" Bonchak won his second straight Southeast Regional Brewers Cup!

We're proud of all of the competitors at this year's Big Eastern coffee competitions – which included the Southeast and Northeast Regional Barista and Brewers Cup competitions – for continuing to elevate the craft of coffee. We're incredibly honored to have many, many talented folks representing our coffees. And, we are extremely excited that Team NYC's J. Park Brannen won the Northeast Regional Barista Competition and Team Durham's Jonathan "Peaches" Bonchak won his second straight Southeast Regional Brewers Cup!

Park and Jonathan will advance to the US Barista Competition and Brewers Cup in Seattle in April 2014. Congratulations to both of you and thanks for all of your hard work – along with the many other inspiring coffee professionals making us proud with our coffee in Durham this weekend.

And, thanks also the city of Durham and the lovely people from this part of the world who made visitors from up and down the East Coast welcome and gave them a glimpse of why we love to call this place our home!

This December marked our second year supporting the NC Choices Annual Carolina Meat Conference with a coffee donation. The conference is the first statewide one in the country dedicated to local and niche meat supply chain development. We felt strongly about supporting this conference as much of the work they do to make their supply chain sustainable, from farmer to consumer, parallels the work that we do within the coffee industry.

Sarah Blacklin, Program Coordinator at NC Choices had this to say about the contribution:

Unlike other conferences, the vast majority of participants (over 70%) at the Carolina Meat Conference are farmers, prospective farmers, and professionals in the meat industry (chefs, butchers, processors). We want them to know that we match their commitment with the food we offer by serving top quality coffee with stewardship and integrity.

At Counter Culture we feel fortunate when we can align, across sectors, with other small scale sustainable agriculture ventures that are intentional and supportive in nature. Thanks for another opportunity for involvement, NC Choices!

We even got some shout-outs in participant evaluations of the conference:

Excellent programming, outstanding speakers. I've gone every year to the meat conference and always learn something new. Thank you for the really good coffee and snacks.

Good coffee – thanks y'all.

Thanks for some strong coffee in the morning.

Feel free to read more about NC Choices and the Meat Conference! As always, if you think your organization is one aligned with our efforts and you would like our support, feel free to reach out to us here.

"My lady gave this to me as a Christmas present years ago," recalls Jonathan. "It was the first time I ever tried to use a pourover cone. I only needed a few tries to make some truly tasty coffee. I still come back to it today as my favorite drip cone, and I recommend it to all of my friends looking into making great pourover coffee at home."

Asked why, Jonathan explains, "It has one small hole that the brewed coffee passes through, and this is helpful if your pour is quick or if your grinder isn't great. I like this slower flow because it can help you extract a little bit more since it prolongs the coffee and water dwell time."

And, of course, we have these available in our store, if you're interested.

Good afternoon and happy new year to all! I am really excited about the possibilities held by 2014 and we are starting the year off on a good foot with this week's single-farmer lots from Bartolo Concha and Nelson Melo.

I wouldn't blame you for calling these coffees microlots on Friday if that's a helpful term, but a few months back we made the decision to drop microlot as a marketing term because it's amorphous and subject to different definitions and qualifications even within a single company. We realized that more specific terms are better indicators for what makes a given coffee noteworthy, given that sometimes microlots denoted individual coffee farms within larger groups, sometimes coffee from one area of a large farm, sometimes coffee from a particular day of harvest, sometimes coffee of a single variety and so forth and so on.

Cup quality unites all of our microlots to some degree, of course, but even that gets tricky because a microlot of 500 pounds from a grower in Nicaragua might score 90 points and blow us away, whereas we expect our coffee from Idido in Ethiopia to score a couple points higher still and at 37,000 pounds, there's nothing micro about it.

Bartolo Concha and Nelson Melo are both members of associations of smallholder farmers we work with and these two individuals' coffees have been separated out, which makes them single-farmer lots. Make sense? Bartolo Concha is one of the seventy – some farmers whose coffee comprises our Valle del Santuario coffee. He has been a member of the co-op for as many years as we have been working with the five communities of the valley and coffee from his two farms, El Limón and El Cedro – named for lime and cedar trees growing on those parcels of land – has always met our minimum cupping score for purchase (an 85, for us), but this is the first year that we have selected it as a single-farmer lot.

The other single-farmer lot from Valle del Santuario, Moisés Vicente, has a similar story, and in fact, so does every other co-op member whose coffee we have selected to stand on its own in years past: they do well consistently but hit that highest-tier mark only once. When Hannah asked Bartolo at a meeting last month what he did differently this year to improve the quality of his coffee, he struggled to pinpoint anything unusual. This seems like a glitch in a system that was designed to both reward quality and to provide incentives for better agricultural practices, and it's one that we wouldn't be so aware of if it weren't for our survey of this co-op back in late 2011 and early 2012. You've all heard plenty about this research by now, but I'll include the link just for kicks.

Our research in Peru led to a stronger relationship and more trust with the growers of Valle del Santuario and the Cenfrocafe co-op, but it also left us with questions about why growers weren't achieving repeated success in Peru when we knew it was possible. Hannah and I decided to do a follow-up study focusing on the agricultural practices and behaviors most associated with repeat success and we took up that study with smallholder farmers in southern Colombia including, but not limited to, the members of the Orgánica association behind La Golondrina.

Arismendes Vargas, Gloria Tejada and Manuel Melenje are all members of that group who have received quality premiums multiple times over the years, but no farmer has produced microlots more consistently than Nelson Melo, and your faithful coffee buyers could not possibly be more tickled to have this grower's coffee to share with all of you after many years of knowing and admiring Nelson, his family and his leadership in the Orgánica association. Nelson's coffee has gone to another buyer since 2005 – predating our connection to Orgánica – and every year that we have tasted it, Nelson's coffee has been exceptional even among Orgánica's many laudable single-farmer lots. We have waited patiently for seven years and that patience paid off, but the tiny amount of this coffee we have will only be available to order online. Sales will begin later this month sometime, though I'm not sure quite when.