I was reading one of the past post and I not sure I understood but I think he was saying that a 3 wire alternator would hookup to the existing wires as the generator. lso I have a 1958 Chrysler and it has a charge discharge indicator(or and amphometers that is zero out).and it could be used with the 3 wire alternator?? Does anyone know if that is correct. Thanks Jerry

When changing from a generator to a Mopar 3-wire alternator, the only original wire you can use is the large wire attached to the BAT terminal on the regulator. You'll have to rewire the regulator and field wires as shown in the diagram below and the ammeter will function as original.

I'm a little late to the party, but agree with ttotired. when switching to an alt. sys the old amp gauge is the weak link in the sys. When I switched wife's 59 dodge over to Chry alt sys, I bypassed the amp gauge and wired in a voltmeter. I put the voltmeter in where the clock would go. Jerry

When switching to a high-amp alternator, there's no need to bypass the ammeter, just run a large gauge wire (#6) directly from the alternator post to the battery; this way the majority of the charging current will flow through the large wire and only the system current will flow through the ammeter.

Of course, doing this will make the ammeter inaccurate so a separate voltmeter is needed to monitor the system.

I just bought a GM 1 wire alternator from Amazon, I am a member so it cheaper and shipping (2 day) free. Yes I will have to modify the current generator bracket to mount it. If I understand correctly the wires that are there now for the generator are not used you just connect a 10 gauge wire directly from the battery to the alternator. The mount I want know until I receive the new alternator. Jerry

I installed an alternator that looks like a generator. I had to change the wiring around at the voltage regulator since the alternator doesn't use it. I used the diagram that is posted in my thread on it here:

To make the wiring changes, I cut the resistors out from the bottom of the original voltage regulator, gutted it of all the coils, and soldered solid wires inside the regulator to make the connections I needed. That kept the engine bay looking like it was still stock, even with a new alternator in place. You could do the same with yours, or you could just rip the regulator out of there and solder the wires together as needed.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm almost finished with mine. Bought a $35 1981 gm one wire just for now. Dont know what amps it puts out but went with the 6 gauge charging wire straight to the battery and added a ground strap to the alternator body.

I have a 1958 350 and ended up cutting the alternator, the exhaust bracket, and shaved the adjustment bracket to clear the top of the alternator. Just have to finish up the regulator wiring. I'll upload photos soon.