I've got a couple questions before i tackel my next problem...
I have a hole in my brake line somewhere and i think i knwo where it is because i can see a dark spot around it. On the rear axel there is a L shaped thing where 4 lines come in/out. Two lines go to each of the drums (im going to replace both because i think thats where the leak is) one line goes to the master cylinder, but what is the 4th? Do they sell these lines pre-bent or do i bend them myself? where can i buy drums for my jeep cheap online ( iknow usaly online they are cheaper than napa).

my second question is my e-brake is stuck on the on position and it doesnt relase when you pull the handle. What is peoples expierce with this, what could the problem be? do i have to replace the cable all the way back? is it the brake assembly itself? I konw theres a recall on this , but i dont hink that thats the problem.

1 - I just did all four wheels with new brake lines. Bought bulk lines, bent over a beer bottle and screwdriver handle - I bought a bender at first but it was a nightmare. They're not to bad to bend by hand. Going across the rear axle is pretty easy. Just make sure that you use penetrating fluid on the drums.... Also when removing from the drums snap off the line and get a good socket on the connector. It's soft metal and is prone to round over with an open ended wrench.

2 - The ebrake recall was for it releasing when engaged. it doesn't sound like your's is even working. check the springs, tension, etc... on the cables and look for anything broken or loose.

1 - I just did all four wheels with new brake lines. Bought bulk lines, bent over a beer bottle and screwdriver handle - I bought a bender at first but it was a nightmare. They're not to bad to bend by hand. Going across the rear axle is pretty easy. Just make sure that you use penetrating fluid on the drums.... Also when removing from the drums snap off the line and get a good socket on the connector. It's soft metal and is prone to round over with an open ended wrench.

2 - The ebrake recall was for it releasing when engaged. it doesn't sound like your's is even working. check the springs, tension, etc... on the cables and look for anything broken or loose.

where can i purchase a e-brake cable and drums? how hard is that to replace? the problem is the ebrake is engaged and NOT disengaging. i tried by hand and it wont budge.

do you remember the lenth of the lines otherwise ill just go mesure them whe ni get back to the garage.

if you end up buying straight lines, they arn't that hard to bend with your hands. Just take your time. You can feel when they will want to start to kink. I would recomend buying a spare or a short length of line to practice on if you have any tight bends. Also, if you need to splice into an existing line without a flair, use a compression fitting. You can get them at the auto parts store, but don't tell them they are for your car. They aren't DOT legal, but they work great. A friend has 5 of these compression fittings on his CJ and he has no problems.

I've bent lines before for a clutch on my CJ so I;m not too worried.
I just want to get my Ebrake situation fixed, anyone else have the same problem E-brake is engauged wont disengauge. Possibly as the other guy said, the cable is bad? i think im going to replace that, if i remove the cable will it disengauge the ebrake for the mean time?

I got my e-brake cables from quadratec. Just put them in last weekend I've yet to adjust them though. They are easy enough to put in just make sure to attach them to the e-brake within the drum first, before you attach them to the equalizer, much easier. Also make sure you spray plenty of PB on your equalizer days ahead so you can loosen the nut without fighting it.

I got my e-brake cables from quadratec. Just put them in last weekend I've yet to adjust them though. They are easy enough to put in just make sure to attach them to the e-brake within the drum first, before you attach them to the equalizer, much easier. Also make sure you spray plenty of PB on your equalizer days ahead so you can loosen the nut without fighting it.

what was the process, does it just run dirrectly from the brake peddle to the rear is it both drums or just the drivers side? i havent really looked to into it just saw it run to the drives.

Ive heard that to bend tubing , if you have it packed with sand while you bend it it will keep it from kinking. Could be bs, I've never tried it and just throwing it out there

that's fine for larger diameter stuff, but for 3/16" brake line i wouldn't recommend it. no way to really know if you get all the sand out and if it ends up in your cylinders or calipers it can tear apart your seals.

vdub, the adjustment for the cables is located on the driver side, just behind the front seat near the fuel filter. there's a Y bracket with a long threaded stud that threads into the attachment to the front cable that comes from the pedal. undo that nut holding the stud in place and you can take the tension off the rear cables. the pass side cable routes over the drive shaft just in front of the fuel tank. just had to replace mine because someone tightened them to the point they were fully engaged but because the pads were worn it wouldn't hold. unfortunately they were like that for so long the cables froze and i couldn't loosen them to get the new pads on. i got mine from quadratec as well, but it seems like the DS cable is like a 1/2" longer than the PS. where they meet at the equalizer one tightens up before the other and it starts engaging that side. I'm going to modify it to run dual e-brakes though so i'm not too worried. poor man's locker

The brake line bender tool is only a coupla bucks. Do you really need a reason to buy more stuff for the jeep?

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Mac Wilson

i had a similar problem with my ebrake... ended up needing to jus tension the cable... easy fix unless its rusted too.. but then its not all that bad or expensive to replace that either... if ur brake is not engaged while the pedal is pushed to the floor u may also have a broken cable.

i had a similar problem with my ebrake... ended up needing to jus tension the cable... easy fix unless its rusted too.. but then its not all that bad or expensive to replace that either... if ur brake is not engaged while the pedal is pushed to the floor u may also have a broken cable.