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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010) The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

So among some other issues I was going to take the 6er in for a regular service. The break fluid needed to be flushed and she was due for an oil change.

One issue I was going to ask my SA about was an annoying audible signal that would sound whenever I would sound whenever I would drive for some distance. Four audible sounds had to be warning me of some impending service issue, right?

Thank God I remembered playing around with the idrive options the other day and I checked the 'hour memo' box. That would have been a little embarrassing with the SA.

You can perform the flush yourself! I learnt this from my mechanic who has over 25 years of experience with BMW's. He recommended using a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir and basically refill with the BMW brake fluid. He mentioned that a proper flush should only be needed when you are changing your pad and rotors. I ended doing this process twice so that i could use the entire bottle of brake fluid.

You can perform the flush yourself! I learnt this from my mechanic who has over 25 years of experience with BMW's. He recommended using a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir and basically refill with the BMW brake fluid. He mentioned that a proper flush should only be needed when you are changing your pad and rotors. I ended doing this process twice so that i could use the entire bottle of brake fluid.

I did mine also but I was afraid about getting fluid everywhere so I used a drill pump from home depot and some fittings and some clear hose. Total cost about $20 in parts. I did it 2 times over 2 weeks to let it circulate. Total time 15 minutes ea.
Make sure you use the right fluid!

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I Love LA. It lets me ride in the winter with the top down.
07' E64/Black....14' F10/M-Sport White

I suck as much fluid out as possible out with a baster. Then fill it up as much as possible. Then (in this order, RR LR RF LF) bleed the break lines. You want to start with the break furthest from the master cylinder and get closer.

To bleed the lines just get a short piece of plastic tubing and a wrench. Loosen the bleeding valve at each tire (one at a time), place the tubing over the bleeder valve to direct your old fluid into a waste pan and have a friend pump the brakes (slow and deliberate to the floor). Keep filling reservoir so that you don't allow any air into the system. When the fluid coming out of the open bleeder valve turns clean, tighten that one up and move on to the next. When all four lines have clean fluid running from them and have been tightened, you are finished. Make sure your level is correct in the reservoir and go have a beer.

BTW - I think I did it without lifting the car on the 6er. Very easy DIY and I think it cost about $30 for fluid.

To flush and change the fluid I use a device that maintains pressure in the system, by using the air from a spare tyre, you feed in new fluid and then go round each wheel and bleed, no need to press brakes or have another person assist, very very easy!! just make sure that the fill bottle does not run out as naturally you induce air into the system, buy them from any car accessory supplier!!!!! not expensive!!!!

I made my own with an Assenmacher TA18 reservoir cap, a pressure regulator (set to 20psi) and some fittings to connect it to my compressor. Here are two $20 DIY bleeders similar to the Motive unit. DIY 1.DIY 2.