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So..... been riding the wheels off of this machine while all my others just sit. The other day i suddenly got a vibaration from the motor that happened only when there was no load (like on a down slope). I pulled the motor and went in. what I found was on the apposing end of the brushes a set of points that i can only guess is a shut down system. With it is a plate with three short bars connected with rubber bushings. The plate that holds them broke letting one of those short bars float (No damage inside that I can see and the motor was operable up to taking it out). I am going to need this plate. The bearings and brushes seem fine but should I replace them? Steve, from Wattsup told me to post this to see what forum members might say.
thanx
Greg

Sounds like the centrifugal switch system. This switch is responsible for getting your tractor out of first speed once the motor has built up enough speed, so your tractor won't work correctly with a broken centrifugal switch. They also can cause collateral damage if bits and pieces break off and end up elsewhere in the motor.

If you can't repair the existing components, you would need to track down a replacement. Since it sounds like Steve doesn't have the parts, you could try Jim at the Electric Tractor Store (email him about it) or Harold Zimmerman at Clean Power. I would think either should be able to help you out.

Since I baught this tractor (26AE12JA) I purchased another (26AE15AA) for parts, mower deck, and snow blower. Would the electronics allow a simple switch of the motor in the interum or even permantly?
Greg

The short answer is that the two motors are different types, and swapping them is not a trivial task. Here comes the explanation: the E15 has a field wound motor, which requires power to the field in addition to the armature. The later model E12's like the one you have a permanent magnet motor, which uses magnets rather than field windings. To perform the conversion, you would have to install the wiring to power the field. In my estimation, doing this in a reliable manner would present more of a challenge than repairing the original motor.

To correct something I said in the last post, the centrifugal switch allows the tractor to transition from 2nd to 3rd speed, not 1st to 2nd as I had originally said.

Been there and done that.... for the first time. So, I have put the bearings in and the centrafugal pressure plate that pushes on the bumpers (which are existing and jim Coates did not have a new replacement). To me the look like they are worn to close to the rivets to feel comfertable with leaving them as they are. First question, what lubricant if any should be applied? Second, has anybody built the bumpers back up using the old centrifugal pressure plate and, more importantly a glue that is compatable? third, how thick were the bumpers on the points when new?

finally, back to my Parts tractor and its motor, was the change purely economics or is the magnatized motor a better unit. Oh yea, one more question, As I follow all of you out there is there a better elec trak for the curtis control conversion that i see some of you have done. ( That one will be for my wife on our little farm!)

I don't have any first hand experience with the centrifugal switch system, so I can't be of much help with those questions. If you have an electric motor shop somewhere near you, they might be able to help match something up for you. My guess is that the materials used were self-lubricating since the addition of any wet type of lubricant like oil or grease would attract grit and cause faster wear. Some dry, graphite based lubricant might work out well.