Riccardo

Givenchy took the initiative to unveil its Pre-Spring 2017 menswear just merely three weeks prior to the main preview of Spring Summer 2017 at Paris Fashion Week. It was a trajectory projection lookbook series that consist a small collection of 15 head-to-toe retro subculture outfits for the menswear division, armed with notorious accessories to pair with.

The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear influences were based upon skinhead romanticism towards the 90s underground music scenes, an expression creative director Riccardo Tisci was also known for his own fair of techno underbelly in the past, having frequented rave parties like “Angels of Love” as a young teen in during his nineties.

Captured at the streets of Naples, known for its renowned grittiness and danger was contrasted against beauty and elegance of the city. The coastal metropolis was a source of pride for the creative director whose have-not upbringing in Taranto and Como didn’t douse deep affection for his home country. It was an indicator of his influence, which has mostly subverted from eccentric corners of many cities.

There are numerous expressions renowned to the house’s traditional code with the use of sporting silhouettes in monochromatic blacks and white order. But perhaps more so than ever before, it’s a test site for new volumes and shapes, creating profiles that were infused between street and couture culture. The Givenchy Pre-Spring 2017 menswear inherits around the same worlds and influences that contains the clubbers featuring a sporty tonal incrustations on the coats, bombers and sweaters, urban-style features in oversized parkas, work wear jackets and tracksuit bottoms with ostentatious signature Givenchy house band, including a number of branded knee socks and rave masks. Meanwhile, traditional suits, jackets, and shirts with stove piped red accents effectively blurred the line between daywear and nightclub underline the brand’s constructed vision of the classic man, as strongly interpreted throughout the past seasons.

The key graphic gutsiness iconography captured in the collection resembles an ancient Egyptian motif reprised from the Givenchy Fall Winter 2016 womenswear collection, it is suggested that Tisci is finding new interested in the old codes. This elevated iconography defined one of three thematic that the creative director deployed for Pre-Spring 2017. The same theme were then transformed to different outcomes, hence an ancient Egyptian falcon visual was paramount as a total athletic feature or was heat-bonded onto jacket tails, other details repeated across archetypes. While offerings of the season were primarily shot on the streets of Naples, providing backdrops that spanned from refined to rundown, a denim range shot in studio rounded out the season.

Riccardo Tisci recognizes it is a challenging moment for luxury and fashion, and his answer is to exalt and hammer home the codes he has been building. “Even young generations, in a moment of crisis, want to buy something that they recognize,” he said. “So identity is the key.”

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