How To

How to Master Instagram Tilt-Shift

Instagram's tilt-shift effect is the finishing touch on a work of smartphone art. It can be a masterstroke or a muddy mess, depending on how you use it. Too often, we've seen tilt-shift overused, misappropriated or misunderstood.

For the uninitiated, the tilt-shift effect is used by photographers to highlight a plane or exaggerate a minimal depth-of-field. It's simulated in Instagram with a blur tool that comes in two flavors: linear and circular. Though simplified, the tool can be powerful if used wisely.

Don't let bad shift happen to you. Heed these tips, and you'll be pinching and spreading your way to vignettes with more depth and likes in no time.*

*Mileage may vary, results not guaranteed.

1. Look for a vertical or horizontal axis.

The first rule of linear Instagram tilt-shift is to identify a discreet edge — that is, a clear delineation between foreground and background. This will make the object "in focus" pop appropriately.

In the vertical example below, the sign is on a nearer plane than the gas pump. It remains in focus while the miscellany fades into the background.

In this horizontal example, the marquee is the subject of the photo, while the sky and street remain out of focus.

Often, the difference between great tilt-shift and "meh" is when Instagrammers break the axis. At first glance, the photo of New York's Penn Station below suggests a clear horizontal axis. We want the people in the foreground and the station in the back.

But there's a staircase that breaks into the horizontal line. The railing is now partially "out of focus" while the people standing behind it are still "in focus." This breaks the depth of field illusion that tilt-shift intends to create.

In this vertical example, we have a clear subject in the foreground (my cousin Javis). However, there is no clean line on which to lay the tilt-shift. The result is an uneven depth of field, which ultimately looks sloppy.

2. Define the foreground and background.

Tilt-shift can be used to highlight a subject in the foreground or background. Regardless of the position, the goal is to clearly define what the viewer should be looking at.

While this traffic signal box is actually behind its companion from this perspective, the tilt-shift effect pops it out of its surroundings. The depth of field is technically incorrect here, but it's passable.

3. Get as close to the edge without touching it.

You'll need ginger fingers to align the edge and axis without crossing over. Instagram's tilt-shift has a fairly sharp gradient. Encroach lightly for a feathered look (a smooth transition from foreground to background), but proceed with caution. Going too far will ruin the illusion of depth.

4. Use circular tilt-shift on circular items.

Circular tilt-shift really works best on circular items, as seen here.

It's very difficult to isolate odd shapes. Attempting to will leave gaps in the focus. The Goomba on my colleague Chelsea's desk did not lend itself to circular tilt-shift.

5. Isolate arcs.

Circular tilt-shift is not exclusively for circles. Expand the field to delineate background and foreground along rounded edges. It's not an exact science. The arc on this fountain doesn't align perfectly Instagram's circular tilt-shift, but the colors in the background blend well enough to hold the illusion.

6. Frame a non-circular object on a solid background.

The exception to the "only use the circle on circles" rule is when you are isolating your subject on a uniform background, like a solid color wall or a cloudless sky. In these cases, you won't see the hard edge left behind by the ring.

In this example, my colleague Christine appears against a white wall. We can shift out the desks and computers, but it doesn't matter where the ring lands — as long as it doesn't feather her face or clip the foreground.

In a poker game with Mashable's chief strategy officer Adam Ostrow, we can rely on the white wall in the background while we shift out the chips in the fore — leaving the subject (and his scotch) in focus to ponder a game-changing bet.

Franklin's fur is uniform enough that we can isolate his face (somewhat circular in this pose) while shifting out his ears and body. As long as we don't clip the carpet, it's as if he is poking his nose right into focus.

This adorable photo of my pal Julianne comes close. The dark background almost lends itself to easy isolation, but the split wall texture and water bottle in the foreground disturb the edge on this attempt.

7. When in doubt, don't.

It's tempting to add that extra pop to every Instagram you take, but often, you just don't need it. If you're unable to identify a clear axis, ring, foreground or background, or if you're struggling to align your edge without breaking the depth of field, just call it off. Your photo is better served without it.

If you've done it right, no one will notice.

As with most creative endeavors, if you've done something right, most people won't even notice it. You don't want your photo to look tilt-shifted. You just want it to look awesome. Think about subtlety as you create your next masterpiece.

What pointers can you offer your filter-happy comrades? Share your best Instagram tips and tricks in the comments below.

BONUS: How to Choose the Best Instagram Filter for Your Photo

How to Choose the Best Instagram Filter for Your Photo

1. Amaro

Techniques: Dodged center, slight exposure.

Effect: The increased exposure seems to add more light, which oddly enough, can often make a photo appear harsh.

When to use it: The darker the photo, the more pronounced the filter effect. Use Amaro to give a photo an aged appearance, as if you'd left the photograph out in the sun too long.

2. Rise

Techniques: Slight exposure, warm temperature, yellow tint.

Effect: The Rise filter adds a golden glow, which paints any picture in a softer, more forgiving light.

When to use it: On a close-up photo of your teenager's pimply skin.

3. Hudson

Techniques: Dodged center, heightened shadows, cool tint.

Effect: Hudson alters the light in your photo, making it appear icy. The photo on the left could very well have been taken on a warm fall day, but the photo at right appears wintry and cold.

When to use it: Outdoors, especially when photographing architecture for a modern, sleek vibe.

4. X-Pro II

Techniques: Vignette edges, high contrast, golden tint.

Effect: With its high contrast, X-Pro II adds a juicy pop to colors, while its vignette edges give the appearance of Photoshop technique.

When to use it: X-Pro II is extremely versatile, so use it in a variety of photos, either for artistic drama or sophisticated portraits.

5. Sierra

Techniques: High exposure, low contrast, slightly dodged center.

Effect: This filter infuses a cloudy quality to a photo, almost as if you were daydreaming.

When to use it: Sierra can easily wash skin tones out, so reserve it for timeless still life and landscape shots.

6. Lo-Fi

Techniques: High saturation, warm temperature.

Effect: As if you clicked the auto-enhance button in a basic photo editing tool, Lo-Fi adds instantly rich colors and strong shadows.

When to use it: Food porn!

7. Earlybird

Techniques: Vignette corners, warm temperature, sepia tint.

Effect: This is the exact photo effect I imagine for old western photos. The golden-red tones invoke past times, while the vignette effect retains drama.

When to use it: To photograph your cigarette-smoking, unsmiling hipster friends.

8. Sutro

Techniques: Burned edges, dramatic highlights and shadows.

Effect: Sutro adds a sinister tone to nearly every photo, combining both richness and Gothicism.

13. Hefe

Effect: Similar to Lo-Fi but with a slightly lower exposure, Hefe adds a vibrant yet cozy layer to your photos.

When to use it: Indoors and out, to enhance already vibrant color.

14. Valencia

What it does: High exposure, warm temperature.

Effect: Faded quality without completely washing out color.

When to use it: Use for a subtle, antique look, even when photographing large subjects. I used Valencia to capture this mansion because it speaks to the period of the home while emphasizing its delicate colors.

15. Nashville

What it does: High exposure, low contrast, warm temperature.

Effect: I like to think of Nashville as the pink filter because it adds a pleasant, pastel tint to your photo, as if you were photographing through soft gauze.

When to use it: On romantic scenes that stand the test of time.

16. 1977

Techniques: High exposure, red tint.

Effect: Rosy tones and cottony exposure, like the pictures your parents took on the beach in the '70s.

When to use it: 1977 can sometimes feel flat, so use the filter for detailed, three-dimensional scenes.

17. Kelvin

What it does: High saturation, warm temperature.

Effect: Kelvin is one of the hardest filters to work with -- when applying it to photos, you either reel back in disgust or embrace it with gusto. I think of Kelvin as the Indian summer fiter because it adds a late afternoon-y glow.

When to use it: On photos with plenty of light that need a warm and lazy feel.

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