Description

Uptown Rock is a large rock formation toward the upper end of Pine Creek Canyon. It is characterized by a beautiful, overhanging SW face and a slabby East face that is broken into several tiers. The rock is a bit more polished and featured (reminiscent of Tuolumne) than what is found in areas like PSOM and the climbing is excellent. The area was originally climbed in the 90's, but only partially developed and then abandoned. Recently a few high quality, moderate lines have been added (see Uptown Rock - Upper Tier).

Getting There

Drive to the end of Pine Creek Canyon and park at the Pine Creek Pass trailhead parking lot. Walk up the road past the bright yellow gate (Morgan Pass) for about 1/3mi, then go right (this is before the first prominent left hand switchback). Follow an old, overgrown dirt road, which turns into a narrow path and leads down toward the upper tailing pond (large flat area) and a tree. Head across the tailing pond toward the large, shark fin silhouetted rock with some orange coloring. At the base lies a large boulder (Pillsbury). Look for cairns that lead up the hill/talus at this point. The new routes are on the upper, SE facing slabs. The approach is just shy of one mile and takes about 15-20 minutes (maybe a bit longer if you're unfamiliar with the approach or carrying a heavy pack).

There are several approach alternatives: 1.) Park at the Crack of Noon/Three Hour Buttress parking area and walk the trail up canyon. Longer, more uphill. 2.) Cross the creek at the level of Uptown Rock (roughly the transition between the upper and middle tailing ponds) - shortest, but there's currently no bridge. 3.) Park at the Pine Creek Pass trailhead parking area, walk toward the yellow gate (Morgan Pass), but cut down and right on a dirt road just before the gate. Work back up out of the trough (serious bog when it's wet) on the other side to the top of the upper tailing pond.

middle tier is still the same - one route, which was unfortunately posted to the upper tier.

lower tier has 4 'new' routes on it, from left to right 10a, 11a, 5.9, 5.9 (according to tai). i've climbed the 10a and the two 5.9s. 10a is really fun and has awesome position, did it in 2 pitches. the 5.9s are ok, the right one is easier than the left, so maybe more like 5.8. the 11a looks soft, but i haven't done it. all of these routes are long, up to 22 draws and a 70m rope (80m would be better). there is a midway rap station and a 70m just makes it back down to the right side - knot your ends!
Jun 1, 2017

I bolted the routes on the shorty wall -- the rightmost route and the left arching crack/seam. I also explored via rap the main steep face -- there are tons of good lines on it -- just really hard.
Jan 14, 2016