Discover a hidden world behind Bath’s most famous landmark

The romantic architecture of Bath lifts my spirits every time I visit.

I love the soft glow of the local stone, the almost austere aesthetic set against the tumbling hillsides.

There is, of course, one (half) ring to rule them all, The Royal Crescent, and I have unashamedly ogled it’s curves like any other visitor.

But until now I never knew that just like Tolkien’s golden band it too held the ability to transport me to a hidden world.

For set in the centre of that semi-circle is The Royal Crescent Hotel And Spa.

On approach it’s only set apart from its neighbours by the presence of a doorman and complimentary valet parking.

Step inside that modest doorway and there’s not only a five-star hotel furnished to fulfil all your Austen fantasies but also a garden glorious enough to outshine even Jane Bennet’s beauty.

The acre-sized oasis of green was created by joining up land from apartments either side of the hotel and includes a walled garden for weddings and outdoor area leading from the spa.

There are loungers for sun worshippers, tables and chairs for afternoon tea, a hanging pod seat for seclusion and, on my visit, Sipsmith deckchairs where guests could order cocktails featuring the London gin.

However, my husband and I did our drinking and dining in the The Dower House Restaurant, a three AA rosette venue set on the opposite side of the grounds to the main hotel building.

I plumped for Far Eastern flavours that danced on the tongue with a starter of Cornish mackerel, avocado wasabi, sweet and sour cucumber and Asian broth followed by spiced brill with crab bhaji, avocado salsa, sweetcorn and curry oil.

But it was a chervil jus on my other half’s slow-cooked duck egg starter that stole the show, elevating its golden interior, leeks and morteau sausage into one of the best dishes either of us had ever eaten.

An anchovy tempura on the side of his barbecue lamb rump with courgette fregula went down less well, but the meat was juicy and tender.

I upped the pleasure stakes with a visit to the spa for a 60-minute Elemental Herbology Five Element Facial (from £90).

It began with a test. I had to answer questions. What was my favourite time of year? What time of day did I feel most active?

This was to determine my element. I came out as wood – firm but flexible and known for its kindness.

The little ego boost is certainly a clever way to pep up clients and the treatment that followed only emphasised my feeling of wellbeing.

Relaxation seeped into every pore as I rejoined my husband and we sat soaking up the unexpected peace of the gardens.

We remarked on how the hotel’s calm atmosphere made us happy to spend long hours simply enjoying our surroundings rather than feeling the need to dash out an explore Bath.

We were staying in The John Wood Suite (prices from £730 per night) which combined Georgian elegance with modern comforts.

The four poster bed was a dream and a fun challenge to climb into for someone under 5ft 5ins.

In all my travels I’ve never found myself enquiring about a shower head at a hotel, but found I couldn’t help myself from lusting after one for back home after experiencing it’s delights.

Sadly I wasn’t so enraptured with the miniature toiletries in the bathroom.

I’m sure many people equate the decadence of breaking open their own bottle of shampoo and using a few drops with what a five-star stay should be.

But for me, as society turns its back ever more on single-use plastics, a true sign of an establishment’s sophistication would be for it to find an elegant way to do away with this appalling waste.

I hope one day soon The Royal Crescent Hotel musters some of Elizabeth Bennet’s boldness and leads the way.

However, this niggle did not mar an otherwise wonderful and almost otherworldly experience.