The Sosta is on a “mission” to bring the “simplicity, style and quality” of a real Italian meal to New York City. So why were my beef-and-pork meatballs so sinewy that my Sicilian grandmother would have hung her gentle face in shame?

In fact, this sunny new spot at the corner of Kenmare and Mott streets is far from bad. Decent, fairly priced ($10 to $13) pasta beats the touristy, boiled-to-Jell-O variety of Little Italy a few blocks away.

So why pick on poor $6 meatballs? With its foodie pretension, the Sosta begs for a little gratuitous face-slapping.

In today’s branding-crazed dining world, you can’t just open a place and say, “Hey! We’re serving good, cheap pasta in cardboard bowls!”

To be taken seriously, you need a “mission statement” and a Web site packed with “frequently asked questions” no one in their right mind would ask. (No, they don’t take reservations at this fast-casual eatery where you order from a counter, cafeteria-style.)

ESquared Hospitality (which also owns BLT Steak among other brands), “creative director” Samantha Wasser and executive chef Ali LaRaia hope to expand the Sosta to many locations, as they somehow did with By Chloe — the “plant-based” chain that serves my least favorite veggie burger in town.

Airy and bright, the Sosta (Italian for “break”) is devoid of décor except for a neon “Mangiamo, Baby!” sign behind the counter. Its menu is supposedly “inspired” by LaRaia’s Italian travels. But it seems mainly inspired by a zillion, higher-quality grab-and-go spots around the Big Apple.

Arugula salad at SostaStephen Yang

The pasta, made in-house, emerged toothsomely al dente. Tomato sauce gave a strong account of itself in spaghetti pomodoro and bucatini arrabbiata. The latter was fearlessly spiked with hot cherry pepper. But “red pepper” was a no-show in one-note, curly campanelle in basil sauce.

I hate to pick on a $2 item, but “freshly baked” focaccia was as stale as day-old. But ultra-fresh arugula salad ($6 and $9 sizes) with pecorino cheese more than made up for it.

Give us a “break,” the Sosta — stop making it sound like “fresh, authentic Italian dishes” are something the town’s never seen before. Good pasta tastes better without propaganda.