Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!

3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only)Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

Hi Blake..I read your response to dc89ssp today. just curious as to why you said to check for signs of previous deletes?

Well, previous deletes are more important for owners who are still under the factory warranty period and would be looking to retain that warranty. If deleted that may cause issues.

It also needs to be taken into consideration of how it was used. If it obvious that it was deleted but the truck itself is immaculate, well maintained, prior service records, etc, it is more than likely someone who did there homework and deleted for the right reasons.

If it was obviously deleted and the truck looks like it was rode hard and put up wet, guess what. Somebody was probably ragging on it hard, more than likely with a hot programmer.

Thanks Blake..more food for thought. It just make me wonder if my truck had deletes before I got it..I bought it from a dealer w/39k on it..Like I said before my exhaust was welded to the DPF,Dont know if it's ever had a programmer on it..getting ready to smarty it anyway..what do you think?

Thanks Blake..more food for thought. It just make me wonder if my truck had deletes before I got it..I bought it from a dealer w/39k on it..Like I said before my exhaust was welded to the DPF,Dont know if it's ever had a programmer on it..getting ready to smarty it anyway..what do you think?

The DPF being welded is definitely a sign that something was modified, but being bought from the dealer, if they said the warranty still stood, then, they gotta warranty it.

There is a post on another forum that says Marco (MADs electronics) says that removal of the entire EGR causes the truck to lose 50rwhp down low. It still makes the same peak horsepower. I think the recommendation was to disable the EGR and take out the spring (?).

I would have to search hard for the link if anyone is interested.

Has anyone else heard that this is true? If so, you wouldn't want to run the plates.....

Thanks for the tutorial. Because of this, I finally decided to do the deletes. I've got my stuff on order as of yesterday. Going the full delete route, turbo back, full EGR delete, Smarty Jr.

ben

Thanks Bud!

Quote:

Originally Posted by DC89SSP

There is a post on another forum that says Marco (MADs electronics) says that removal of the entire EGR causes the truck to lose 50rwhp down low. It still makes the same peak horsepower. I think the recommendation was to disable the EGR and take out the spring (?).

I would have to search hard for the link if anyone is interested.

Has anyone else heard that this is true? If so, you wouldn't want to run the plates.....

Removing the EGR is not a problem as long as the actuator motor is left in place and remains plugged in. Not power loss will result. Here is how mine is.

On a side note, the High Dynamic Range (HDR) function on the iPhone 4 the takes really excellent photos! Somebody could use a good engine bay cleaning...

-- Can a turbo back exhaust be done without lifting the truck on a lift? Say, on the wheels (2WD) in the garage?

-- How long should it take to do a complete delete, EGR, Turbo back, Throttle Valve, etc. My friend and I are good mechanics, but don't wrench for a living.

-- Any special tools you can think of that will be needed? I'm kind of worried about being able to reach the flange bolts on the exhaust where it meets the turbo.

ben

Ok,

1. Yes. It might get a little tight but can be done. If anything a good set of jack stands will help out.

2. I would dedicate a full day to the project for a first timer. This is simply to plan for unforseen complications. In reality, 3-5 hours (of actual wrench time) should get the job done.

3. The only head scratching, wrench throwing part will be the (15mm, I think) nut on the front of the EGR Cooler. The one that holds the cooler to the exhaust manifold, on the engine side of the cooler. Either have a crows foot available, or be prepared to sacrifice a wrench to the cause. I did that latter, and bent an old wrench at close to a 45 degree angle to be able to reach the nut to get it off.

It would seem that the exhaust I ordered has the bung holes. There is one near the top of the exhaust near the turbo. I assume this is for an EGT probe, but there isn't one on the stock exhaust. Do I just plug this?

Should I just plug back in the stock bungs in the other locations, but leave the wiring disconnected?

It would seem that the exhaust I ordered has the bung holes. There is one near the top of the exhaust near the turbo. I assume this is for an EGT probe, but there isn't one on the stock exhaust. Do I just plug this?

Should I just plug back in the stock bungs in the other locations, but leave the wiring disconnected?

ben

Ok,

For use with the Smarty

The bung hole can just be plugged if you have something to plug them with. If not, just use the sensors, but make sure they are unplugged.

I have no clue why the downpipe would have a bung near the turbo, there is no factory sensor in that location. Just plug it.