Originally posted by Thad Garner 0mm bump stop basically means that we didn’t use the set screw to limit the up travel of the suspension, only the down travel (droop/rebound stop) see attached picture.

Thad,

Thanks for the clarification. Do all HPI team drivers write their setup sheets that way? i.e. measure droop from the hub carrier, as opposed to the ballstud mount as indicated in the setup sheet.

Originally posted by AMGRacer You serious? The 3 belt change should take 20 minutes tops!

Then you are very fast builder..........there is no way I can remove all the stuff including engine and pipe, then the bulkhead, then take the belt off, put the belt on, put the bulkhead back on, put the engine and pipe on, and do the setting in 20 minutes....if I can finish that in 3 hours, that is fast for me...

Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.

Originally posted by Rookie Solara Then you are very fast builder..........there is no way I can remove all the stuff including engine and pipe, then the bulkhead, then take the belt off, put the belt on, put the bulkhead back on, put the engine and pipe on, and do the setting in 20 minutes....if I can finish that in 3 hours, that is fast for me...

Again, that is ME only......not to mention, I have those machine RCSCREWZ all over the R40.....that take extra times to take those screws off.

The front bulkhead comes out with 6 screws, pop a linkage from the steering off lift out the bellcranks and you can remove the first belt. Put the middle belt on while you have the layshaft out.

The rear bulkhead has 9 screws you need to remove, pop off the shocks and the bulkhead top lifts away. You get get the layshaft out with a bit of wiggling, or just loosen the 4 motor screws. Rear belt is out. Should not take you too long, and the motor can stay in place............

Originally posted by AMGRacer Hey Thad I noticed that Hara did not use a large fuel filter this time. Has the fuel tank size been increased sufficiently now?

Also why does Hara move the receiver to the servo side of the car? If it is for balance then the same could be achieved with some lead weight as the RX units is pretty light.........

Oh yeah, do you have any insights into the new belts? I remember the old Racer 2 had optional urethane belts which I used and actually found them more prone to damage............

-Yes, the tank is a almost 75cc. Last year it was less then 73. I just kept going back and forth between tech adding more fuel line until it was exact. But remember, the tank expands probably .5cc during running so a quick spray down with some motor spray before post race tech always helps…just to be safe.

-I think he runs his RX on that side merely for convenience. He shortens all his wires so they plug directly in without bundling. Also he doesn’t run a switch so it makes plugging in a snap.

Originally posted by Thad Garner -Yes, the tank is a almost 75cc. Last year it was less then 73. I just kept going back and forth between tech adding more fuel line until it was exact. But remember, the tank expands probably .5cc during running so a quick spray down with some motor spray before post race tech always helps…just to be safe.

-I think he runs his RX on that side merely for convenience. He shortens all his wires so they plug directly in without bundling. Also he doesn’t run a switch so it makes plugging in a snap.

-I haven’t received the new belts yet.

Cool

I also noticed that Hara was running the stock 2004 top deck, not this one:

Any particular reason to have 2 seperate "lightweight" top decks? It seems that the "new" one has a bit more material in it.

Also Hara was running the Orion "Fresh Kicks"? Any particular reason, or he was running a sponsors tire?

I also noticed that Hara was running the stock 2004 top deck, not this one:

Any particular reason to have 2 seperate "lightweight" top decks? It seems that the "new" one has a bit more material in it.

Also Hara was running the Orion "Fresh Kicks"? Any particular reason, or he was running a sponsors tire?

-Hara’s kit was the 04 JP kit so he just used the top deck that came with the kit. Actually the new lightweight upper deck is lighter. Also the new upper deck uses better quality US graphite.

-We tried many different tires and the Orion tires just worked best. HPI, Orion and CRC tires all use the same foam supplier, so it comes down to wheel flex. The Orion wheel has the most amount of wheel flex.

- I have tried balancing in the past and haven’t seen/felt any difference. It isn’t necessary.

Originally posted by AMGRacer The front bulkhead comes out with 6 screws, pop a linkage from the steering off lift out the bellcranks and you can remove the first belt. Put the middle belt on while you have the layshaft out.

The rear bulkhead has 9 screws you need to remove, pop off the shocks and the bulkhead top lifts away. You get get the layshaft out with a bit of wiggling, or just loosen the 4 motor screws. Rear belt is out. Should not take you too long, and the motor can stay in place............

I will save that and give that a try when the new belt is out....I am kinda slow on building and THINKING.....I always remove EVERYTHING for only 1 part....I don't know how to find a short cut to remove or rebuild stuff, thats why it will take me HOURS to rebuild the car...

Not to mention, I have TV, DVD, internet, BABY, wife and a lot of stuff around me while I am rubbing my R40...that take extra times, LOL.

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