Climbed NR in late Sept, WR in May with a good bit of snow climbing on the route. Nice that way. NR is a super-classic, and the knife-edge leads directly to the start of the crack on the Gendarme, which is nice. Great mountain.

Other than not being sure whether we were headed up the cascadian to begin with, it was pretty straight forward. We ended up going about 3/4 of the way up Ulrich's before traversing over to the cascadion colour. The snow field just below the false summit had receded alot by August so we were able to skirt it, not needing to use crampons.

We snowshoed into Stuart Lake then climbed up the main Gully to Stuart Glacier. Jay and Mark were trying to climb the North Ridge so I went off to climb Sherpa Glacier by myself. We waited out a storm in a snow cave and I started out on the 4th day, I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier and stayed in a small snow cave. The next morning the Mountain was socked in and I was out of matches, I retreated from the top of the Glacier. On the way back down the Gully above Stuart lake we were in an avalanche, we all survived. Later that year Mark was killed while climbing Ice Cliff Glacier by a Rock Slide. Jay went on to climb the North Ridge in Winter a few years later.

We hiked in early from the parking lot to Mountianeer Creek Basin, we climbed the North Ridge and were on top by nightfall, we slept (sort of) on the ledges below the summit and descended via Sherpa Glacier. The Glissade below the Crevasse was Great. Russ and Larry got a little wet on the descent due to bad route finding.

We camped in Mountianeer Creek Basin, we all climbed the Sherpa Glacier Route, Gerd The Wonder Dog only got to the False Summit, he was eyeballed by a Eagle. Gerd stole some cheese from Peter during a rest stop on the way out.

This was my first time on the mountain, we hiked in the night before to Stuart Lake slept there then climbed up a rock slide and dropped into Mountaineer Creek Basin. We got to the top of Sherpa Glacier but it got late and we decided against a night on the Mountain.

GREAT climb! Two day trip with a party of three climbers. Afternoon hike into bas camp in the valley just below the couloir. Deer fearlessly walked through our camp and a hot meal prepped us for an 6:15AM departure.

Climbing up the entrance to the couloir was easy once we identified the forest trail. Once out of the skree it was an enjoyable scramble up to the false summit. We stayed left of the snowfield and crossed above with a short belay for safety. Spectacular views over the false summit to the true summit. The ridge between the two was clear of snow and we scrambled across, just below the ridgeline. Final pitch up to the summit overlooked Stuart Lake for a beautiful view. The local mountain goat approached in an attempt to bum some trail mix, but settled for some tasty lichen instead.

The return trip was brutal. Down to base camp for a quick pack -up and a long painful trudge back to the cars. Fianl arrival at 10:30PM and a drive back to Seattle! I would recommend a second night or an earlier departure on summit day.

Tried to do a one day car to car. Started at the Stuart Lake trail head (after leaving a car at Long's Pass trail head ) at 3:00 am, reached summit at 8:30 pm. Spent the night in the open at about 8,000 feet. It was a 32 hours car to car.

Nice route. Did it over a 3-day weekend (camp to camp below Ingalls Lake). Started from camp at 1:30 am. Napped under space blanked before Stuart Glacier for an hour. Stuart Glacier crossing was kinda sketchy with the lightweight approach shoes and light crampons. Got to notch at 7am. Topped out at 1:30pm. Knife-edge traverse was the best part of the climb (pitch 1 of Gendarme was also very good; pitch 2 OW was harder). Only one other party on route. Descent down CC took a long time and sucked (hard on the knees)! Were back in tent at 7pm. Hiked out Sunday morning.

PS Running water available from snowfield just below summit on descent. No other running water was encountered (snow patches just below bivy sites at the notch though).

We left the trailhead at 6PM Friday and headed over Longs Pass. Got to campsite next to creek at 9PM and went to bed early. We hit the trail at 6AM and went looking for the Cascadian Couloir. None of us had ever climbed Mt Stuart before and had a little trouble finding the correct couloir. We ended up ascending Ulrich's Couloir and crossing over to the Cascadian Couloir about 3/4 the way up. Summit ridge was mostly Class 3 with a couple Class 4 spots. Summited about noon and descended the Cascadian Couloir. Very rocky and dusty, but a good trip nonetheless.

With E Sandbo & T Rashko. Drove over to TH Friday after work. Hiked in to flat spot in trail in dark and slept next to small creek. Up at 4am and hiked over Ingalls, Goat and Stuart Passes. Crossed glacier and climbed gully to ridge. Refilled water bottles from snowmelt. Ridge climbing good 4th and easy 5th class to Gendarme. Avoided Gendarme with rappel to slabs to the W. Couple of 5th class moves up slabs then scramble to summit. Bivy on summit, low on water but not on food. Tim had backpack full of peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches, Eric had plenty of dried bananas, I had peanut M&Ms and cheese. I climbed into bivy sack and started to dine while buddies threw rocks at Snafflehounds. One Snafflehound wanted to share M&Ms and jumped on my chest where food was, Snafflehound was launched into orbit. Descent of Cascade Couloir long and dry, no water. Halfway down talus balanced boulder, no longer balanced when I climbed on it, trundled over me, split back of scalp and boulder rolled over booted foot. Bandaged head but decided not to take boot off. Finally reached Ingalls Creek must of drank 2 quarts of water. Day turned extremely hot on climb up Longs Pass, thankfully we ran out of water but not peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches.