Your chances of finding a meat-free French onion soup at a restaurant are next to nil. But at home, a handful of dried porcini mushrooms steeped in hot water creates a full-flavoured broth that still lets the flavour of the onions shine through....

I totally get it now, all of that shushing that happens once people put a soufflé in the oven and, more gently than they ever have before, close the door. Soufflés are worth the tip-toeing, especially this cheese soufflé....