Hi guys need help with my ae86, had car running perfectly after getting a bit of hassle in previous months with it, now i have a crank but no start issues caused by no spark, i have new plugs, new leads, a good coil, new crank sensor, checked leads with multi meter and all are good, same with plugs, my 20v silertops is running go tech pro x ecu, checked continuity between crank sensor wires and ecu to determine if i had a broken wire and everything there is ok, checked continuity on my coil to ecu and all is good, i tested my coil with multi meter and all looks good, car also has a new battery, all earths seem to check out ok aswell, but still after all of this no spark, car will only crank but i get no smell of petrol from car flooding itself, ecu also seems to be getting correct power in the correct places as i got wiring diagrams of gotech website to check everything, at this stage i am out of ideas and need to get my car running asap, any insight would be greatly appreciated

did you check your fuel pump and fuel pump relay to see if they are both working? You should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on when you give the car power without cranking it. Sounds like it might be a fuel issue given that everything else tested fine.

I couldnt hear fuel pump but if i give the pump a 12volt supply i can hear it, so i gave it a constant 12v supply and tried to start but still no joy, im not sure wich relay is for fuel pump i have a seperate relay board for my ecu i suspect i should be one of those ??? Would that issues cause no spark visible whilst cranking ??

that is your fuel pump relay. If you take the cover off you can manually trigger the fuel pump but that shouldnt have anything to do with the no spark issue. I'd start off by making sure your ignition settings in the ECU software are correct then go from there.

If it is ecu problems i wouldnt have much knowkedge of what my settings should be i have the software and can connect to ecu, but dont get how it could just stop like that, i have the relay out of the car now and checked on ohm setting and readings arent good in fact i only got one rrading between two of the pins, reading was about 0.02 on a 20k ohm setting

Ok update, i have checked my four seperate relays on relay board all check out ok, check fuel pump relay got weird readings, one reading of around 26 and a second reading of around 148 on multi meter, not sure if this is good or bad, got a piece of wire and with ignition live tried jumping the pins on yellow connector that plugs into relay but got no joy ?? Really not sure what to do with the car my electrical knowledge isnt the best but i have a bit of experience with it, so far its like everything im checking seems to be ok, if it is of any use the last time the carvwas running it was revved quite hard but idled for a few minutes perfect after that.. once stopped it struggled to start again but then fired up and ran perfect again but once shut of after that ive had this issue it will crank but no spark or smell of fuel, plugs arent wet after cranking either, checked timing belt and is ok no damage there, engine had been rebuilt a year prior to me buying it also so parts are fresh

Check that the trigger wheel sensor has not vibrated loose and moved away from the trigger wheel. Sensor needs to be close without actually touching the teeth when you turn the engine over. Start at about 1.0mm and work your way down to around 0.7-0.8mm clearance. Make sure both the trigger wheel, sensor and sensor bracket are all securely fastened.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

My sensor is as close as possible without touching, sensor is also new, my last sensor was damaged by trigger wheel on account of being to close so i brought it to auto factors and they got me a replacement, sensor im using is actually out of a ford focus, bracket secure and sendor secure have had a freind hold sensor and move slightly once cranking in the attempt to at least get it to make an attempt at firing but no joy

If your fuel pump relay has been wired up according to the ECU manual, then it will be like this...

When you test the relay you should get 40, 60 or 80 Ohms between 85 and 86 (thats the relay coil). There should be open circuit between 30 and 87 (thats the contact that closes when the coil is activated).

With the relay out and the key turned ON, you should have 12V between 30 and 87. Shorting those two pins should make the pump run.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

Pins 85 and 86 are the coil, and 87 and 30 close when the relay is energised. Pins 87a and 30 will be closed when you have the relay out for testing, and should measure close to zero Ohms. If there is nothing connected to the 87a pin you can ignore it.

When you are measuring resistance you need to make sure you have the meter on the right scale setting. And say if the reading is Ohms or kOhms etc.

Cheers... jondee86

Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting, and they learn a skill for a lifetime.

Ok i have checked fuel pump relay and it also checked out ok i also pulled it apart to check out windings and all look good and clean, looks relatively new to be honest, im wondering if the ecu i have has some sort of immobiliser this no fuel no spark issue really has me stumped but i really need to get to the route of the problem, could this be all caused over bad ecu ??

I use the gotech tuning software its downloadable from there website, how do i upload pictures i have a screenshot from last time i plugged into car but it was an offline reading so i think it was the last reading car had taken once shut off, not enterily sure on how it all works so the photo might give you a better idea