Hey Phil, I agree but at least I know what it most likely it is. All else fails I'll just rebuild the lil guy. Here is a pic of it, dirty fingers and all. I'm thinking it probably just held it in place really. It's not to where it can fall out, its not broken that bad, you can just wiggle it a little with your fingers.

Do you mean at the bottom where the drain is that holds the Idle Adjusting screw? I may have an extra complete housing to sell you that is in excellent condition if you need one. Let me know but if it is this and if you don't mind it being broken it really doesn't hurt anything and nobody will see it anyway. However, if it is the drain nipple then it can leak fuel from the air filter breather assembly and spill onto the bottom right side of your motor underneath the carb and that's not a good thing either. There is usually a small separator bottle drain type thing that goes on the end of the drain tube and I've even seen people put small inline fuel filters on the end of the drain line instead but to each his own.

If you want to repair it you could just use some plastic JB Weld. As for the Idle Adjustment Screw just hanging there it won't hurt anything if those two small prongs that hold it in place broke off because you can still reach it to adjust it. Nobody will know it is broken except you.

Just let me know if you want a new setup for the breather and airbox assembly. See, I told you to clean that carb really good since you already knew your battery was bad! Glad you got things squared away in short order. I might even have a spare OEM Manual to sell if you need one. I'll have to look for that too if you want it.

Bama, Russian Wolf is a good read. I especially like his use of referring to himself in the Third Person! I, The Russian Wolf! Haha!

The cable lube tool is a great gadget! One disconeects the cable, place the cable lube gaget over the end of the cable sleeve with the wire cable sticking through it and tightened it down. Using a can of cable lube, stick the plastic tube into the provided gaget fitting and spray away. The gaget seals around the cable sleeve and the wire cable so when you spray the lube in it is forced down the sleeve around the wire. It really works great. I spray mine until whatever is coming out the other end is clean and then place a rag under the end for a bit to allow any/all excess to drain out. Now you know the cable is lubed for it's entire length. I think mine was around $10 (US) and the lube another $6-8. One can has lasted me for years, on two bikes, both with cable clutches. So 4 throttle cables, 2 clutch cables, 1 rear brake cable, all done 2X per year. Once before winter storage and again mid summer during a regular service routine.

An update: Turns out they were correct in saying that fix probably wouldnt last long. When working on it today I noticed gas still leaking, just a much smaller amount. I pulled the carb apart and sprayed the floats and have the whole thing a good cleansing. I'll update again if this doesn't fix it but so far so good.

An update: Turns out they were correct in saying that fix probably wouldnt last long. When working on it today I noticed gas still leaking, just a much smaller amount. I pulled the carb apart and sprayed the floats and have the whole thing a good cleansing. I'll update again if this doesn't fix it but so far so good.

If it persists I would remove the carb from the bike and give it a good tear down and clean it well.

Did you remove the jets and give every small passage way a good cleaning? I definitely recommend liberal amounts of carb cleaner followed by blasts of compressed air. The cans of the compressed air work well for this. I would also recommend getting carb dip like Berrymans and dipping all the metal parts.

It's a pain to do but it will most likely solve many issues. Really anyone buying a used 800 that is older or has a bunch of miles should go ahead a do a thorough cleaning/rebuild. Between that and a new OEM petcock I have a feeling that 90% of peoples issues with their 800's would be solved.

KnightRider, any reputable well-stocked retailer should have what you need. Just give them your carb info and they will ask if it's stock or rejetted to whatever it is. Call your local Kawasaki dealer for pricing that you can then use those part numbers to shop around on the internet for the best pricing. Look up the OEM numbers here:

If your carb has been rejetted then you'll have to know what your parts are so you can find what you're looking for. I rebuild carbs so if you don't have anyone to do that you can mail it to me via USPS and I'll mail it back to you when I'm done. You just pay for parts, shipping and labor but I can get it done (depending on not waiting for parts) within one day's turnaround.

It ain't about where you live; it's about how you live. So, ride to live, Bruh.

You really shouldn't need a kit. Chances are quite good that everything in the carb can be well cleaned and reused. If you need replacement parts they can be purchased at a dealer or online. The biggest thing to remember is to be pretty methodical in the disassembly and make sure not to loose small parts or o rings. Have a nice clear space to work. Also, if anything looks questionable just replace it, especially o rings.

So read up on the CV40 and the CVK36, look at the parts fisches and diagrams, and then go for it. If you run into anything, take some pics and post away. There are a lot of people here to help out.

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