Tortola. The main island of the BVI, Tortola
(tor-'tO-l&)
(see road map) means "Turtle
Dove," so-named for its shape and beauty. Of volcanic
origin, a central mountainous "spine" forms its core with a
series of lesser ridges undulating and spilling to the sea. Spectacular
views abound with vistas opening up to outlying islands across the azure
blue sea and emerald colors above reefs. The scenery is enhanced by ascents
like "airplace rides," sheer descents and hairpin turns
that require mirrors to be posted in places. Yes, driving on Tortola is an experience
in itself. Some feel safer in jeeps and four-wheel-drive vehicles. And yes, drive
on the left!

The central spine of Tortola is the route of a main road, called
aptly enough, "Ridge Road."

From the East End, look for the police station-a large white
building, and turn inland from the coastal road at Little Dicks Road to begin.

Climbing up onto the ridge, this section of Ridge Road has views to Josiah's Bay with its large salt
pond, which is reached via Josiah's Bay Road.

An everchanging tableau of ridges, valleys and islands appear in
succession as the road follows the ridge or contour line, dipping through
"ghuts," or stream valleys and transversing slopes to navigate the next
peak.

The background views here show peaks from Tortola's
ocean headlands and outlying islands of Great Camanoe and easternmost Guana Island.

This scenic drive appears to slowly wrap around the "amphitheater"
created by the spacious Road Town Harbour. The
islands across the Sir Francis Drake Channel form a backdrop in the distance.

Since the top of a mountain is often its most level part, Ridge Road is the location of a whole
way of life, reflecting Tortola's historically rural and pastoral culture.

Just past the Cool Breeze Bar is the turn off to Brewer's Bay at Brewer's Bay Road East.
Mt. Healthy National Park,
the ruins of windmill powered sugar mill at an historic sugar plantation, is down this
road.

Further on is the turn-off to the right to Skyworld, the restaurant in the clouds
with the 360º panoramic views.

Still further on, a turnoff goes up to Mount
Sage National Park, with free trails, a semi rain forest,
mahogany trees, mountain doves and spectacular views.

As Ridge Road finally dips to the North Beach Coast, half way down toWindy Hill are the overgrown
stone walls and other ruins of the18th century St. Michael's Church, reputedly
headed by a pirate priest who used this vantage to spy passing ships, now
usually charter boats.

On the cliffside way down is Just Limin' and on the flatland is Mrs. Scatliffe's and
Palm's Delight restaurants. Also, the North Shore Shell Museum
is found at a restaurant by that name.

Keep a look out for fascinating cloud formations as the tradewinds
lift over Tortola's mountainous spine, often dropping very localized rain and sprouting
rainbows. The play of cloud shadows over these rolling ridges
and etherealpeaks is a continual, and majestic, work of art.

Passing Little Carrot Bay, the road goes on by Apple Bay, home of the
famous Sugar Mill Restaurant.

Next door is Little Apple
Bay, where Sebastian's On the Beach serves as a kind of crossroads
at Zion Hill Road, the way to Soper's Hole.

The coast road becomes Long Bay Road and surmounting the next ridge presents a view of spectacular
Long Bay Beach. Drive right
through this fine resort, perhaps stopping to sample the great local food at Nathan's Snackette, right before
climbing some more.

Further on, a "rustic" road leads past Belmont Point to cozy
Smuggler's Cove.
Here you will find a unique "living museum" in a decaying beach bar as well as a
giant Arawak zemi.

Sir Francis
Drake Channel
Coastal Road

Another coastal road (this island is all coasts) runs along Tortola's
Sir Francis Drake Channel from the Beef
Island Airport on the East End to Soper's
Hole on the West End.

This route is split into two main sections by Road
Town in the middle.

The section from the Beef Island Airport
on the East End, called Blackburn's Highway, passes Fat
Hog's Bay, Maya Cove
and other bays, going over a series of ridges looking out to Virgin
Gorda, like this one seen from the Virgin Gorda ferry.

The route then comes into Road Town,
becoming Waterfront Drive and making a half-circle around the harbour
Capital and main habitation. Here is a modern supermarket and the beginning of
our Road
Tour of Road Town with great dock and dining spots on the harbour.