Pandemonium Estate

Douglas has been a professional food writer since 1986. He is also an award-winning actor and director in Community Theatre and has been for many years. His blog may be found at: www.urbaneguerilla.wordpress.com

Published December 14th 2016

The devil to pay and no pitch hot, but lots of wine

The walk to the cellar door at Pandemonium Estate from the car park is a precursor to the experience you're about to have.

The entryway is between cool crisp green working vines that are just beginning to carry the fruit that will become next year's wine.

The cellar door itself is a cool relief to the already burgeoning summer heat outside. It's spacious and wide with a comfortable deep bar, couches and local art for sale on the walls.

Stainless steel and natural wood predominates, but this is very much a working cellar with vast vats and floor to ceiling glass-doored fridges filled with the glowing bottles of wine in a rainbow array.

I was fortunate enough to chat to one of the two owners, Loraine, and sample some of their exciting wines.

She was kind enough to take questions, and the first one, predictably, was 'Why Pandemonium?' She laughed and explained that it was a fair description of their lives at the time, having bought the Upper Swan property while still owning the previous winery, moving, trying to set up the new business while still working full time at busy demanding jobs as medical professionals.

It wasn't until later that the other meaning of 'pandemonium' occurred to them - 'the abode of all demons' (from Milton's Paradise Lost)

Not all demons are evil however and Loraine and Martin have used demon names for their wines. The first I tasted, for example, the 2013 Chenin Blanc is called the 'Frutimer' after the demon who rules over parties.

The wine itself ($18 a bottle - or two for $25, a real bargain) is crisp with a light bouquet and lovely summery sherbert-y flavours. Perfect for cheese, a lazy summer afternoon and friends.

It is made from fruit of the old vines that were there when Martin and Loraine bought the property, so they're about thirty years old now. Since buying Pandemonium the two have planted a goody acreage under new vines, which have thrived.

The Tempranillo in particular have fruited well and are used in the Barbas (secret things, disease and shape-changing) Shiraz Tempranillo.

This is an outstanding wine and a real snip at $25. It's sinuous, rich, balanced and complex. While perfectly drinkable now, this will be fantastic is a couple of years.

As well as classic whites and reds, Pandemonium produces excellent examples of two increasingly popular wines - the sweet Moscato, although Pandemonium's has a lovely astringent underlay that gives it a nice balance and elegance.

The other is the Rosier (romance and sexual love) rosť - not my favourite, but I can appreciate the work that has gone into producing this perfectly balanced, highly popular wine.

It is entirely made from Grenache grapes and enjoys rich, full berry flavours and a rosy pink blush.

The wines show a strong Spanish influence and reflect Loraine and Martin's love for the country and an appreciation of our Western Australian Mediterranean-style climate.

The views from the cellar door towards the hill are spectacular as is the prospect before Pandemonium - a bright future.

Pandemonium Estate is a newcomer to the valley's richness and a welcome addition, too. Make them feel welcome, if you are a true wine lover, they have some excellent wines that will repay attention.

If your taste is broader, they can cater for groups - early in the new year tasting plates of local delicacies will be available as will a neat Bed and Breakfast for short stays. Well worth a visit.