artist residency

The Chilkoot Trail Artist Residency is an award of two weeks living on the Chilkoot Trail, the historic Klondike Gold Rush Trail running from Dyea Alaska to Bennet British Columbia. It is where over 100,000 people traveled to seek their fortune in Dawson City, Yukon, though very few made it and even fewer got rich. The trail is only 33 miles, but the steep 3000-foot climb destroyed many of the gold seekers and over 100 years later that still created anxiety for many of the hikers. Trail runners can cover the distance in one to two days, many hikers, speed through it in 3, leisure hikers in 5 days, but we had 14 days.

Views along the first section of the Chilkoot Trail

One the US portion of the trail, Alaska, there is Finnegan’s Point, Canyon City, Pleasant Camp, Sheep Camp, Happy Camp, Deep Lake, Lindeman City, Bare Loon and Bennett Lake. The first four camps are in Alaska and the last five in British Columbia. The entire Alaska side is in the wilderness, except climbing the boulder fields to the pass. It then opens up into the most spectacular scenery I have known.

Our first Chilkoot Trail river crossing

We quickly got our routine down. Hike at a decent pace to our next camp, pitch our tents, felt the water, put anything with a scent, all food, toiletries, gas canisters, cook pots, bug dope, stove, etc., into the bear lockers. The area is home to both black and brown aka grizzly bears, and it is imperative not to invite them into camp with your food. We would then cook and eat our dinners, mine was usually dehydrated soup mix with couscous or dehydrated mash potatoes.

My “worst” meal, because I ran short of food calculating two weeks was 12 days instead of 14 (clearly I was not thinking) was a mixture of instant mash potatoes and a small handful of pistachios. But you know, no matter what one eats, it always tastes good out in the woods. I would often skip breakfast, but I still had coffee, lunch was often almonds. It may sound dismal, but I had carefully planned three meals a day plus snacks, 2000 calories each day, into little ziplock backs. I just ran short a couple of days, which was not a big deal.

I see so many hikers with tons of unwanted and food, fearing they will starve in their short hikes I cringe at how heavy their packs must be. I would rather be mildly hungry than carry unwanted and excess items. I already had almost 50 pounds of gear on my back, with my art supplies and 200 bingo games.

I had my tent, sleeping bag, rain gear, one pair of pants, one pair of shorts, two short sleeve shirts, one long sleeve shirt, a hat, gloves, puffy jacket, 12 pairs of underwear. I can wear the same t-shirt and shorts for two weeks straight as long as I have a change of underthings. I had my MSR pocket rocket stove, two small gas cans, matches, lighter, toothpaste, sunscreen, lotion, bug repellent, parks communication radio, and a giant can of bear spray. I had all I needed.

On July 20, 2018, I boarded a flight from Albuquerque, NM to Juneau, Alaska where I would meet my hiking buddy, Nancy Morrill. Nancy who would arrive at the same as me was flying from Saranac Lake, NY. Our flights got in at 11pm, and we were quick to get to our Airbnb on Douglas Island so that we could get to sleep before our first big adventure. The following morning, we met hired guide, from ABAK to take us out onto the Mendenhall Glacier. We could not have asked for better guides. The two female guides managed our group exceedingly well. They were immensely knowledgable about the geologic history of the glacier and equally strong in handling fatigued person situations. ABAK fully outfitted us with climbing gear, safety equipment, even water, and snacks. It was a spectacular and beautiful experience with the opportunity to learn about how climate change is affecting Mendenhall.

The Hike to the Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier

Nancy Morrill and Hilary Lorenz on Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier

The following morning, we boarded with all our gear the fast ferry, Alaska Fjordlines, to Skagway. The small boat with about 40 people made numerous stops to watch the whales, harbor seals and sea lions play in the water. Captain Glen would stall the ferry each time we saw a whale or a seal colony. It was a beautiful 4-hour trip that also goes to Haines, AK before arriving in Skagway.

Captain Glen of Alaska Fjordlines

Leaving Juneau on the fast ferry

Despite being 45 minutes late due to all the whale watching, Kerry, owner of the Swaying Spruce Cabin was there to pick us up. She drove us through the tiny tourist town and up the hill to her cabin. It is a delightful area, only 1.5 miles out of town but away from the hordes of cruise ship tourists. We had a couple of nights to get ready for our big adventure. I took a nine-mile run down to the NPS campground where we would stay the evening before hiking the Chilkoot Trail, the official start of my residency. We spent the morning with the NPS staff getting our bear avoidance, radio, and trail training. Both NPS and Canadian Parks are partners with the Yukon Art Center’s residency program. I packed close to 200 Chilkoot Bingo Games plus boxed sets that I gave to NPS, Alaska Geographic and Skagway Traditional Council, all of whom are sponsors and donors to the artist residency.

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park with Range Cassie.

Chillin’ on the Chilkoot bingo Cards

With our training complete, food all packed we were dropped at the campground. I was so excited to begin the hike. We pitched our tents and went out for a 6-hour walk into the ghost town of Dyea, now a beautiful campground. We stopped in at the only place to eat in Dyea, the Chilkoot Trail Outpost where we drank local beer and ate salmon sandwiches. While there, we met a couple who just completed the Chilkoot Trail and wouldn’t you know it, they are also from New York, and they live less than 5 miles from Nancy in the Adirondack Park!

Hilary Lorenz and Nancy Morrill with our last beer and a proper meal before heading onto the Chilkoot Trail

Nancy and I said goodnight and went to our campsite, I was almost too excited to sleep. The following morning we began the trail with a half mile of the rugged, muddy mess. I imagined that the first mile or two are wildly popular for day hikes and the path gets pretty beat up, and yes, it soon became less torn up. The first night we would stay in Finnegan’s camp, a short 4-mile hike through the woods. We met two couple there, both men were military, and they all live in Anchorage. I pulled out the bingo games, and they pulled out the boxed wine and cigars. I passed on both. This was the first official Chillin’ on the Chilkoot Bingo game, and the first night I answered the park service’s call in with my handle, “Artist 3.”

Chilkoot Trail Marker

Historic signs in Dyea

Dyea, AK once home to 8,000 to 10,000 Gold Rush residence.

Hilary Lorenz signing into the trail log book.

The beginning of the Chilkoot Trail

The first downhill of the Chilkoot Trail

Views along the first section of the Chilkoot Trail

Views along the first section of the Chilkoot Trail

Here is how I looked at the beginning of the trail. Bear spray strapped to my front.

If you follow my blog, you saw numerous posts as I prepared for my Chilkoot Trail Artist Residency in 2018. Now you get a glimpse into the trail I hike from Dyea, Alaska to Bennett Lake, British Columbia. This beautiful video was shot and edited by the awesomely talented Steve Hossack who lives in Anchorage Alaska.

I spent two days with Steve and Sarah Frey who is the marketing and development director at the Yukon Arts Center while they filmed my final days on the trail. They are both incredibly charming people and were a blast to work with.

The Chilkoot Trail Artist Residency application is now open, the deadline to apply is February 1, 2019. Click here to Apply

Over the next few days, I will make several posts about my project, the trail, and my preparation, so stay tuned!

Chillin’ on the Chilkoot Trail Hand Printed Bingo Cards

My first night on the trail, and first round of Bingo with fellow hikers.

Artifacts still on the trail since the 1890’s

more Klondike Gold Rush artifacts on the trail.

The beginning of the steep pass

My morning radio checkin with the rangers.

At camp with 48 hikers the night before crossing the pass. We played 6 rounds of Bingo for great prizes. People went home with my hand made and signed bingo cards.