Based on your description and provided the dishwasher is indeed 1) an Asko 1875 and 2) filling with water, draining, heating, but not circulating, It sounds like a busted wash impeller within the main motor/circulation pump, unfortunately.

First though, do you hear a quiet sound of the wash motor starting once the unit has completed filling with water ?And be sure the unit is actually filling with water, this image below indicates the normal water level to look for....

The pump will be super quiet if the wash impeller is broke as I suspect it may be...almost like a fountain, since the Asko are very quiet under normal conditions. You will have to either get right down with your ear to the bottom or run it with the door open by activating the door switch with a screw-driver and look for visual/audible clues.

If so that is a tell tale of no wash action yet the motor runs, hence broken impeller. If you don't hear anything it may be a wire come off the main motor/circulation pump...but not likely.

This unfortunately is common with Asko built dishwasher`s and it is a case of being a victim of their own design.

What happens typically is the ball-bearings from the upper rack holders ( which are plastic, hence fatigues due to heat and fall apart ) come out making their way into the sump, hence breaking the wash impeller from the motor.

Let me know what you find and I'll try and help you move forward from there. If you need direction to remove the circulation motor and pump I can do that, but it is a pretty involved repair and requires pulling the unit from the cabinet...you may opt to call in a pro.

Unfortunately it is expensive, the circulation pump itself is around $380.00USD. If one can perform the installation I guess it is feasible, but I suppose that is for you to decide. Hope this helps you move forward from here.Regards,Macmarkus :)Hello again,
Unfortunately it is expensive, the circulation pump itself is around $380.00USD. If one can perform the installation I guess it is feasible, but I suppose that is for you to decide. Hope this helps you move forward from here.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)

Mark;I have the same problem. I cannot determine what part to remove. Any clues on what the circulation pump looks like. I am sure I am confusing it with the pump that extracts the water.Thanks, ronulrich@mac.com

Mark Try again. Indeed the impeller was spun off and yes the material design leaves a bit to be desired. Mine was about 8 yrs old or so and was due I guess. The option with the Asko D1760 is punt or pay a lot for a new part. My solution is to use epoxy, the marine didn't work so went with the 5 min. and will coat the whole part with swimming pool paint,(aka roof paint) to seal from the water. Will post after the process. The greatest clue was to pull the rear panel and twist off the pump, I used large expansion oilier and presto it let go. There sat the prop separated from the shaft and very thin around the hub edge of the prop.Mark Try again. Indeed the impeller was spun off and yes the material design leaves a bit to be desired. Mine was about 8 yrs old or so and was due I guess. The option with the Asko D1760 is punt or pay a lot for a new part. My solution is to use epoxy, the marine didn't work so went with the 5 min. and will coat the whole part with swimming pool paint,(aka roof paint) to seal from the water. Will post after the process. The greatest clue was to pull the rear panel and twist off the pump, I used large expansion oilier and presto it let go. There sat the prop separated from the shaft and very thin around the hub edge of the prop.

Mark Try again. Indeed the impeller was spun off and yes the material design leaves a bit to be desired. Mine was about 8 yrs old or so and was due I guess. The option with the Asko D1760 is punt or pay a lot for a new part. My solution is to use epoxy, the marine didn't work so went with the 5 min. and will coat the whole part with swimming pool paint,(aka roof paint) to seal from the water. Will post after the process. The greatest clue was to pull the rear panel and twist off the pump, I used large expansion oilier and presto it let go. There sat the prop separated from the shaft and very thin around the hub edge of the prop.Mark Try again. Indeed the impeller was spun off and yes the material design leaves a bit to be desired. Mine was about 8 yrs old or so and was due I guess. The option with the Asko D1760 is punt or pay a lot for a new part. My solution is to use epoxy, the marine didn't work so went with the 5 min. and will coat the whole part with swimming pool paint,(aka roof paint) to seal from the water. Will post after the process. The greatest clue was to pull the rear panel and twist off the pump, I used large expansion oilier and presto it let go. There sat the prop separated from the shaft and very thin around the hub edge of the prop.

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Related Questions:

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/PUMP MOTOR/DRAIN to work when it is commanded .If this does not happen then the voltage at these points must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage/drive from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor. The water pressure must be good and the spraying must be seen to be good. If there is low pumping or pressure then the spray arms will not turn around to inject with pressure. If so the pump must be checked for clogging.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

The thermistor ( for temperature measurement ) is
located between the motor cradle and the holder.

The thermistor measures and controls the water temperature via a heating element. In the event of errors the heater is switched out if the thermistor short-circuits or is disconnected from the program control board or programmer.

**unplug the unit from the dryer or wall whichever applies to your situation...safety first**

If you are capable remove the rear panel and top panel to ohm out the thermistor to varify if it is within` the values I provided...or perhaps it has dislodged from it`s position...though that is unlikely, it could happen.

In the event you need a thermistor and you feel you can replace it yourself I`ll show you how...I do recommend calling in an authorized Asko service provider.

CHANGING THE THERMISTOR1. Remove the top cover2. Remove the rear panel3. Remove the thermistor by pulling it out to the left.4. Remove the thermistor header connector from the program control board.5. Install the new thermistor by threading it through the hole between the cradle and holder.6. Connect the thermistor to the program control board.7. Replace the rear panel.8. Replace the top cover. (Don't forget the twostar washers for the outer screws.)

Hope this helps move you forward or at least gives you an idea of what needs to be looked at.

Let me know if you require further assistance. Thanks for choosing FixYa today.

Have you changed your door latch wax motor yet... If you have the brown actuator pin then you want to chuck that wax motor out of there quicker than spit! You want the redesigned wax motor with the black actuator pin. I know of folks where the wax motor failure caused the timer and /or water valves to act up... See www.neptunewaxmotor.com for disassembly photos and other Neptune information.

OK, just had the same problem wit my dishwasher, ASKO 1875, ,,,,,, Firstly, open the door and remove the tilt screws that secure it from tilting, top left and right corners at the front , pull the dishwasher out from under the bench enough so you can get to the back of the unit. Take care with the power cord [ should be turned off at the wall] . At the fear there is a panel at the bottom held on with 4 selftapping screws, remove these and ease panel away from the machine enough so you can see inside. Now you are likely to see alot of water sitting in the bottom tray, [ l did on mine } This exess water activates a small float under the pump which in my case caused the problem. Sponge the exess water out into a bucket, there will be quite a lot. Once dry try turning your dishwasher back on and hey presto the lights on the controll panel should be back to normal. Turn power off again, replace bottom panel to the back of the machine. Reinstall back under the bench, not forgetting to replace the tilt screws and all should work well....... Hope this helps. If still a problem you may have to dig into your wallet and call a serviceman. P.S. If you dont want to remove the back panel and sponge the water out, you can just tilt the dishwasher over to drain the water but this will cause abit of a mess {water } on the floor, but it is alot faster. Good luck.

The only other thing that could cause the ON light to turn off as soon as the motor is about to start would be a bad or loose connection that causes a break in the circuit. Even if the components are O.K. the connection could still be causing the problem.

re original issue, see if R11 is burned. if so, need to change R11 resistor and associated triac, and probably wax motor so it won't do it again. temporary fix just cut out R11, door won't lock. if your model won't spin that way, depress actuator for microswitch from door wax motor. instructions on web.