I guess if you know how to put it together, piece meal it with parts from Ebay. If you don't I recommend Dick Wright at Wrico. His expertise in this is great. Perhaps he would have a reconditioned one for sale.

Also, I have serviced mine at a company called Sure Marine. Look on the web for their address. They may have some take outs, also. Most likely you will need a DB 2010 45k btu unit. Make sure you match your voltages to your bus or house bank.

I guess if you know how to put it together, piece meal it with parts from Ebay. If you don't I recommend Dick Wright at Wrico. His expertise in this is great. Perhaps he would have a reconditioned one for sale.

Don't Webasto heaters normally come as a single unit? I didn't know you could build one from parts.

My maintainance manual claims the Webasto provides 80,000 BTUs, but I have my doubts on that.

I talked to Wrico. At $2150 for a 45,000 BTU Webasto I won't be replacing mine since I was only going to use it for preheating the engine in the winter. A $100 or less block heater will have to do.

Brian Elfert

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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body. But rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, a good Reisling in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming: WOO HOO, what a ride

it's not that the series 60 does not provide enough engine heat......the Webasto is a suplimental heater to provide heat without idling the engine or for quick cabin heat in the morning

I'm just going by the manual. The manual says the Webasto is used as supplemental heat even when the engine is running as the engine cannot always provide enough heat. the manual might very well be wrong.

1) They have double twin doors & that perhaps open more than close plus poorly sealed from factory.2) Engine’s greatest BTU output is only during acceleration3) Axle ratio is low speed version so to achieve greatest acceleration between city block stops which mean less laboring time & rarely in over-drive than intercity coach4) Four cycle is about half BTU of two cycle during acceleration. Even still 2 cycle transits use 80K or larger heater5) All coach equips with glass expose half of its wall…mean greater BTU difference.6) Very low “R” factor in between walls’ metal or fiberglass.

What about size of heater for given 40 ft coach…if you remove all but approximately 32 sq ft of thermo pane side glass with 1 ½ inch polyurethane foam in walls & ceiling, 45K BTU heater should be all you need for mild cold climate areas.However learning from many users that have transits over-size take-out such as 80K or higher. That it starts & stop too often will cause chamber to dirty up quicker than smaller 45K that run longer & fewer cold starting. Excessive cycling equal wasting more unburned fuel to blacken until reheat chamber to a point of cleaner burning.

However…in bare shell format…80K is best in mild cold climate areas.Plus 80K is noisier than 45K unit at the inlet & exhaust.

The larger heater the more battery power drainage for given time. All electric motor require 1/3 to 2/3 more amperage to start until reached full RPM. So fewer cycling is the better.

Another thing to be known is whatever unit’s flow rate is…it must be that flow rate or greater in your heat exchanger system or YOU WILL have problem with several pre-cycling before it reach coach’s thermostat setting. What happing is on-demand (limited storage tank) boiler water’s temperature is already reach high limit before enough cooled inlet flow rate to keep it from triggering high limit safety switch. This the cause premature failures to starting due to sooted fire chamber & clotted igniter & restricted or plugged exhaust. So be sure you check unit’s flow rate so you can design exchanger system to match it or greater.

However those diesel heater equips 2 or more zone system contain larger tank surrounded burner unit to have a supply of heated water = call an oil-fired boiler that similar as home type but equip with electric element while in RV park with eddy kilowatt power source. These “boiler” types not require minimum flow-rate in exchanger circuits.Aqua-Hot & Hydro-Hot are design to zone for a price.

For free information…20 sq ft of well sealed single pane glass areas equal 18000 BTU of heat or cooling loss for every 27° F degrees difference for a given condition. Remember that ONLY glass…not including non-glass wall.

Another freebie; Coolant Flow, Electrical Power & Fuel on all brands of Diesel Heater;PS…even though it from Proheat…it practically same suggestion to other brands

He's been trying to sell these for a while. I think he's dreaming on the price. They are old military units with no parts support. By the time you bought enough of them to have some spares, you could by a Aqua Hot or Webasto. They are also only 30,000 BTU so one may not be enough.

I'm with the others on the size. 45k is what I have in my eagle and I've been in single digit temps and it keeps us toasty warm. The coach is insulated and has double pane Peninsula windows. If I run all heat exchangers and the block heater circulator, it won't cycle. That is a rarity to do that any length of time. I have 44k of heat exhangers (including bay heat) plus a 40k block heater exchanger for a total of 84k capacity. Note that the block heater is only used for about 20-30 mins to preheat the engine. I can shed the cabin load if needed. The great thing about that 40k block heater exchanger is that it runs both ways. When underway it provides engine heat to the cabin heaters. The webasto isn't needed then. It is a slick system.

If you can get 180 degree water from the engine to your heat exchanger, you should be able to heat your cabin in a normally configured bus conversion.

An 80k system would cycle way too often sooting up the chamber. I don't think you would be happy with cleaning that mess up very often. That carbon black in the chamber is a mess to clean. Been there done that on mine when I clean it out at the end of the season. Once per year is enough.

David

Here is a photo of my 45k unit. Note the field wiring relay pack on the side of the furnace head. You can insall these units just about anywhere. It exhausts straight down through the bay floor and back out just in front of my bogie wheel. The exhaust pipe is not shown in this picture.