I know what all of these codes mean but dont know where to start. 107, 122, 190, 452. I have replaced the gas cap (after finding out that part of the old one was still there and wasnt letting cap close all the way) But the rest?? I have a new MAP, TPS, and MAF to install but dont know if that will fix these issues or not?!? I have cleared the codes numerous times and it keeps throwing or pending these same 4 codes.

The commonality between all the codes described is a low voltage condition messing with the sensors. To begin with, how's the state of the battery? Any work done to the car recently?

P0107 - BARO/MAP Sensor Low Voltage Detected
Sensor operating voltage is less than 0.25 volts (VREF), as a result it fell below the minimum allowable calibrated parameter.
Open in the circuit, or short to ground
VREF circuit open, or short to ground
Damaged BARO/MAP sensor
Damaged PCM
VREF should be greater than 4.0 volts
PID reading is in frequency/volts

P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (FRP)
The comprehensive component monitor (CCM) monitors the FRP sensor to the PCM for VREF voltage. The test fails when the VREF voltage from the PCM drops to a voltage less than a minimum calibrated value.
VREF open in harness.
VREF open in sensor.
VREF open in PCM.
Verify VREF voltage between 4.0 and 6.0V.

P0452 - FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Detected
The PCM monitors the EVAP control system FTP sensor input signal to the PCM. The test fails when the signal average drops below a minimum allowable calibrated parameter.
Contamination internal to FTP sensor connector
Damaged PCM
FTP circuit shorted to GND or SIG RTN
Damaged FTP sensor
FTP V PID reading less than 0.22 volt with key ON and engine OFF or during any engine operating mode indicates a hard fault.

Ok had the battery and the Alternator checked and both show good. Battery 13.2 and Alternator charging at 14. something didnt see all of it. Ok going to check all grounds but then what. And where is the MAP sensor located. It is hard starting and that is a sign of a bad MAP (I have one so I might as well replace it)

Bump, to see if any answers. Also checked all the grounds on the car they seem to be tight and clean so I guess I will have to take it to a shop. Never had to do that before. HHMMM, where to take it. I will have to investigate. If anyone has an idea about these problems or a similar problem let me know.

Add some grounds. One that might be missing is a ground to the cylinder head. Yes, the big cable is connected to the transmission and the engine, but the intake manifold- where all these parts are likely grounded via the harness- is only connected by the intake manifold bolts. Typically there is a supplemental ground on the cylinder head. Find a screw or bolt somewhere that is holding down a bracket, and run a wire from there to the chassis.

Your problem could be on the hot side also, so you might want to investigate the harness that all those wires go into. IIRC, those should all spring from one harness. Look for any wiring damage.

Wait.... all those are sensors.... which should get both hot and ground from the ECU. The PCM looks at the output voltage and compares that to the return voltage to "see" what's going on. It might be that your ground by the ECU is loose or the terminal is cracked. .

OK, cool, thanks, I will check those out this week. I appreciate you taking the time to read my post and offering advice on how to fix it. I was really lost. Will post later on anything I find. Probably will go a head and check ground on head. I noticed that my headlights flicker a little at idle but are fine during drive. If tach goes below 2K then I notice the flicker again but more evident during idle at 800.

Really? That could be indicative of something else. You might want to use the electronic odometer trick to monitor voltage while you drive. Key off, press and hold the odo reset button. Turn the key on, hold the odo reset button until the odo changes to [test]. Release the reset button. Now each time you press and release the reset button, you will scroll through one of 30 test functions. You're looking for the one that reads [bat 12.1] or in your case with a battery reading 13.1, you might show 12.9. Typically the reading is off by about .2v from what you measure on the battery. It will stay in test mode until you turn the key off, so if you start the car it will show alternator voltage while you drive. That way you can see for yourself if something is amiss with your alternator or nearly anything else. You might have a good alternator, but if the field wire is bad, then your alternator won't put out continuous voltage. Once the field wire breaks, as we've known people who have that problem, then you won't have alternator voltage whether the alternator is good or not.

OK, whynothtinkwhynot, I put the dash in test mode and the battery shows a constant 14.5-14.9 at idle and at cruise. ???? But I will let it warm up and give you all the test data. Also where is the MAP sensor located on the 2.3 duratec? I have one and might as well replace it.

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