What kind of chain are you running? If it is O-ring be prepared for a variety of clearance issues. And if that chainguard is aftermarket check the inside of the mounting stud, some protrude too far into the chain clearance area. From your issues I presume you did not do a dry build before starting the renovation and reconstruction. (I won't call it a restoration unless it is going back to original condition!)
Robbie

It is an o-ring chain and that could well be the problem. I did try a dry build before firing the engine. The chain cleared everything okay. Just to clarify, the chain only clangs occasionally, not all the time. That kind of symptom can be hard to replicate in a dry build.

My recommendation is always build the whole bike with the pieces that will be used and actually run it before taking it back down for cosmetics. That eliminates the majority of problems up front, especially on any bike built from mixed parts and using aftermarket junk. major sub assemblies can be done like the engine and transmission rebuilt and wheels done, etc. Its more work but it beats having to retro repair stuff.
Robbie

Robbie--is correct!--You must dryhump the build & check all clearences or lack of!--I have a repop cvainguard, & I made a 1-inch by 3/8-inch stainless 1/16 thick (extention!)--Nothing hits ,Its looks nice & neat,-Its not stock obviously, but WORKS VERY GOOD!--I can have 2-inches of slop & it wont Bang on anything!---Just a route that you can explore!----RICHIE

RUBONE wrote: renovation and reconstruction. (I won't call it a restoration unless it is going back to original condition!)
Robbie

Robbie, I like that......

.....I should have said that on occasion when doing my WLA instead of "Restoration". The WLA is not "restored" to original condition, nor will my 58FL project. But they both are/will be the way that I want them.

Hey guys!----I forgot to mention one thing in my prior post!---I noticed that there was olny one loc-nut on the rod to the actuater,--Its a good idea to run (2 nuts)-so nothing moves under use & vibration & the rod, threads get some oil on them being that they are under the chain!.--I run a 2-nut on that ADJ.,& never had a problem with that happening!.--It never happened to me when I ran 1-nut!--As even if it loosens ( it cant turn loose!)--But what can happen if the nut comes loose is the rod will move-(up--down)--& this will make you apply more brake when you use it!---Reason being alot of the times ,the ADJ. is near the END of the rods threads.--EX.,---on a bike I worked on this was the issue!--It had 6-threads into the adjuster!, so when it loosened-up there was MOVEMENT!---2-nuts & no more problems!,--You can use LOC-TITE--But I strongly advise against this as when tranny & rear chain ADJ. take place-roughly--(400 miles??)-you risk stripping the nut or just having it become a PITA!---2-nuts = no headache!---Just my 2 on it!--Respectfully,--RICHIE