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Topic: $50 Robot with AVR ISP mkII 6 pin (Read 61867 times)

thanks for the schematic jaabot...but I am confused about the original article by admin (see the points in my previous post). The schematic is connecting the battery + of capacitor with the battery + of 4XAA battery. Is this okay?

There are some enlarged photos on Admin's tutorial. These helped me a lot because they show you exactly where to solder. There is one for the battery pack design as well. If you use both these photos and the schematic, you should be fine. Just be careful to install the capacitor, led and voltage regulator the correct way as noted in the tutorial as they are all polorized.

I am currently waiting for my programmer and headers to come so I can build this. I have been reading almost everything I can find. I read in some other forums that the ISP2 programmer needed the reset pin pulled up on the board (at least for the atmega328p). Is this true? If so, do I just need to add 4.7Kohm or higher resistor and a 0.1uf cap?

Before I started building the $50 robot I thought it would be good to have some kind of circuit diagram or at least a check list of what needs to connect to what. Mainly so I could check my soldering, volatages etc etc. So thought I would post the attached PDF document (in a ZIP file) that allows you to turn on/off layers on the board to see what's what. Old news to most - but 'may' be good news to some.

Looking at this graphic, I realized after I had soldered it that you have your 5v regulator on backwards compared to how admin has it in the guide - and it looks like I have therefore connected the wrong side for +. Are these things bi-directional? For safety sake I am switching it over and will just have to make sure I put the + in the right place in the final setup, but I was curious at the change if there was some reason behind it.

yeah... I saw the difference too! I went for the pictures in Admin's tutorail to guide the placment of the 5v regulator.

I am now stuck with the prograsmmer telling me I got a MOSI short.... but I did all the connections exactly as in Webbot's layered 6pin diagram. Still scratching my head and searching the threads for something similar and an answer.

I just wanted to say thanks for making this schematic. I'm new to this and trying to learn, so your schematic was very helpful. I started with the original, but I was getting confused and nothing was working right, so I desoldered most of my connections and I started over with your design. I got everything finished and it's working great now. Thanks for taking the time to make this up.

Looking at this graphic, I realized after I had soldered it that you have your 5v regulator on backwards compared to how admin has it in the guide - and it looks like I have therefore connected the wrong side for +. Are these things bi-directional? For safety sake I am switching it over and will just have to make sure I put the + in the right place in the final setup, but I was curious at the change if there was some reason behind it.[/quote]

@ DMCLIFTON : exectute le schematics from Webbot exactly. Although similar to Admin's there are differences (yeah...the 5v regulator is one). I redone mine and all is working. Go exactly as webbot says!

@ DMCLIFTON : exectute le schematics from Webbot exactly. Although similar to Admin's there are differences (yeah...the 5v regulator is one). I redone mine and all is working. Go exactly as webbot says!

Aside from the flipped regulator (I had already soldered it in, so I just connected things right and have my ground and power connections flipped to match - getting a beautiful 5v so looks good) I have it mostly the same. I had also run the connecting wire between the two sides of ground like Admin did beforehand, so my ground runs like his - ground lines connected and then the ground on the sensor side run over to the two pins on the ATMega and the pin for the programmer.

I was considering doing the $50 robot on a breadboard and saw this and decided to change my mind, this schematic makes making the controller look a lot easier i just have one question: the wiring looks a bit different from admins to me, not sure if that's the case just want to make sure before i start. thanks.

I was considering doing the $50 robot on a breadboard and saw this and decided to change my mind, this schematic makes making the controller look a lot easier i just have one question: the wiring looks a bit different from admins to me, not sure if that's the case just want to make sure before i start. thanks.

The wiring is actually the same but the orientation of the components is different to Admins - notably the regulator is rotated through 180 degrees. So use one design or the other don't mix the two.

I am new to this site and almost done with my robot. On the last part and I ran into a problem. I followed your schematic but when modifying my servos, my avr isp mkII has a blinking orange light and says the isp conncetion is wrong or there is a problem w/ the reset pin. I noticed that pin 2 should go to the vcc pin of the IC but you dont have them making direct contact. Can you explain why? That is the only thing that I can think would explain this problem.

I guess you are using the PDF of the matrix board layout. In which case when you view the PDF then on the left it will give you a list of layers you can turn on and off by clicking on the eyeball icon. Turn off the micro-controller layer and you will see that there are some other wires under the microcontroller (ie you can do the soldering on the underside of the board).

thanks. i appreciate the help. turns out it wasnt the wiring. I forgot to plug in my atmega8 (total noob mistake). works perfectly now. thank you very much for putting the time into making that pdf. If it was not for that, I would never have been able to make this robot.

I followed your schematic but on the last part and I ran into a problem. When I plug the power, the LED not turn on. Anyone know why this would be?Than I use USBasp to connect and programing the micro, but my computer can't recognise the driver, can anyone help me with this problem?

I followed your schematic but on the last part and I ran into a problem. When I plug the power, the LED not turn on. Anyone know why this would be?Than I use USBasp to connect and programing the micro, but my computer can't recognise the driver, can anyone help me with this problem?

Thanks...

I was under the impression that the LED was turned on by the micro controller and it needs to be programmed first to do so. I did not think this was a power indicator LED.

I would be curious to hear what others have to say because when I powered mine up, not yet programmed, my LED is not lighting neither.

Admin, who came up with the original $50, posted it as more of a wiring diagram (probably as he wanted to keep it simple to newbs), I've posted my own Eagle files for my own take on it http://www.societyofrobots.com/member_tutorials/node/191, and others have posted theirs. I've also posted a layered PDF of a different design. The main differences with all of these are to do with what pin headers you want. In some ways ... the more alternatives people post the harder it gets to support folk with problems as no-one knows what they are trying to build. So another Eagle design may only confuse.

hi im new to robotics. im attempting the $50 robot. i followed the schematic but when i try to input a hex file for the photovore through AVR studio 4...i get "entering programming mode...FAILED!" im using an ATmega8 with AVR ISP2 Programmer

You've probably got a soldering problem - check the connection between the reset pin on the chip with the equivalent header on programmer header pins. Or it could be any of the other programmer pins. Suggest you remove the ATmega chip (careful not to bend/break the pins) and use a meter (ohms or continuity tester) to check the connections from the chip socket to the programmer pins to make sure they are good. Also check that none of the pins have accidental short circuits to any of the other pins.

thanks for your help but as it turns out, i think all i had to do was to make my ATmega chip fully go into the DIP sockets.at first i only pushed in the chip til all pins seemed like they were in but i pushed it in some more and now it works