8/11/05 - Climbed via standard route with North Eolus and Glacier Point from camp in Chicago Basin.

12/24/13 - Backpacked in over the course of 2 days from train drop at Cascade. Climbed narrow NE ridge direct as part of a week long winter trip to Chicago Basin. Exposed 4th class scrambling over powder covered granite; serious stuff.

After shoulder surgeries and lots of physical therapies, another 14er. This was superior trip. I met with new friends, a great group of climbers from 14ers dot com, this was a peak that showed me I was able to start climbing more difficult fourteeners and a starting point of a great summer. I hiked from Purgatory and stayed 5 days in the most incredible wilderness ever.

via direct NE ridge; Left our campsite (~10,900’) @ 6.35. Making fair time to Twin Lakes, Dad nonetheless wiped out from the undertaking & took a longer break. Rest helped & we resumed. Trail not to Dad’s liking, & by the time we got to Eolus-N Eolus saddle (~11.05), strain & looks of route ahead combined led to him opting to stay there & not continue.

Too bad, esp. as the crux was right behind him :( Upon reaching start of Catwalk, ran into group coming down, 1 of which just finished his last 14er! Congratulated him & scampered to top via direct ridge (fun!). Summited @ 11.35.

Met up w/ Dad & retraced our steps back to campsite. Light rain on way down + thunder in distance- good timing! Back to campsite by 15.03.

A little sad Dad didn’t make it to the summit, but fun climb other than that (Catwalk esp. + direct ridge cool!), & besides, TOMORROW IS THE BIG ONE!! Nice to do this one with ease (& it was FUN!) after being turned back so many years before.

an interesting scramble, catwalk, steeper finish, then up North Eolus (somebody took my brother's hiking poles and we were running down to twin lakes to get those back and returned for the north Eolus). Lovely views.

I was surprised that this was rated less difficult than its neighbor, Sunlight. Lots of fun scrambling, the catwalk, good weather, and an incredible view from the summit made this one of my favorite summits to date. Chicago Basin was simply breath taking! Almost made the disgusting train worth it - but I will definitely hike in if I ever return!!