Convinced you have acne? Your skin could actually just be purging, here's how to tell if it is...

Our skin can tell us a lot of things. Whether it's thirsty for a face mask, craving some serum or dying for a drip of vitamin C, it's always communicating. But the real trick is knowing how to listen.

If you've ever tried a new skincare product, only to discover that it makes your skin flare up with pimples, it can be hard to know whether your skin is purging or reacting with a regular breakout.

Because when new products are introduced into your routine, both are possible outcomes. The only difference is that if your skin is purging, it can be beneficial to continue with the product until you come out the other side to see results.

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Aussie blogger Lab Muffin Beauty Science made a video to explain purging, saying that a purge occurs when a new skincare product causes pimple formation to speed up, bringing all those clogged pores that have been lurking under the surface of your skin (aka microcomedones) to a head creating one helluva breakout.

Here's how to know if a new product is helping or hindering your skin and what you should do about it...

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As for purging, the reason some treatments can trigger a similar reaction is because they increase cell turnover with the end goal being that they eventually expose the fresh skin cells underneath and reveal clearer, younger-looking skin.

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"This means that they help us to shed our dead skin cells more effectively in the long-run so that they don’t build up and clog our pores," says Dr Justine.

"In the shorter term, however, this accelerated shedding or exfoliation of dead skin cells may trigger more blackheads or breakouts."

"Retinoids are a good example of a treatment that can have this effect to start off with, but they are incredibly helpful in most people who persevere and any increase in breakouts tends to settle with continued use."

The early skin purging effects of retinoids has been dubbed “retinoid uglies" known as a sort of coming of age phase as your skin adjusts to the powerful ingredient and often results in excessively red skin and peeling. It's so common that there are even Reddit support groups on dealing with the purges and how to get through them.

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Do breakouts look different to purge pimples?

Purging and breakouts can have slightly different appearances, so it is possible to recognise which is which.

"Acne breakouts take a number of different forms, including blackheads (also known as comedones), red pimples on the surface of the skin (which dermatologists refer to as papules), pustules, nodules and cysts, which are deep, tender bumps underneath the skin," says Justine.

Purging is slightly different, appearing on the skin mostly as blackheads or small skin-coloured bumps just under the surface of the skin.

But it is also possible for purging to cause similar spots to a breakout, too.

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So, how can I tell if my skin is purging or breaking out?

You can determine the difference by assessing the appearance as well as your routine.

"If you have recently introduced a new medicated treatment and you experience more blackheads or blemishes in the weeks to follow, this may be due to purging and it will hopefully pass pretty soon", says Dr Justine.

"If, however, you have started a new skincare routine (non-medicated) or introduced new makeup and your skin is breaking out, this could just mean that the items are not suitable for your skin and are aggravating the underlying acne process."

And of course, other lifestyle factors, such as stress, diet and hormone fluctuations may also contribute to this. Some people can also experience purging when they start to use a deep cleansing brush, such as the Clarisonic. Always seek expert advice if you're unsure.

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How long should you leave a 'purge' before you consult a dermatologist?

Unfortunately, purging can be a lengthy process and it can take up to three or so months before results start to show, especially if the treatment is an acne medicated treatment.

"If you have just started a new treatment for your spots and get a bit of a breakout to start off with, be patient as it is likely to just be a blip and should settle down once the benefits of the treatment have had a chance to kick in", says Dr Justine.

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"If things aren’t heading in the right direction after a few weeks of starting a treatment, or if they are continuing to get worse, it is a good idea to consult a dermatologist to ensure that the choice of treatment is still appropriate."

And if you are experiencing something more severe, such as cysts, scars or feeling unwell, it is important to seek more urgent attention as your treatment may need to be adjusted sooner.