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On the making: V1240 Guy Laroche Vogue Paris Original

EN Summary: Currently on the making is the gorgeous OPP Guy Laroche Vogue Paris Original, made from Blue Sky Faux Dotted Swiss Polyester Chiffon. Keep on reading if you'd like to know the details about this project!

EN: I first saw this dress made up using yellow "plumeti" poly-chiffon by Erica B (click here) and I really loved the fabric so I asked a friend in the US to get me the same fabric from MoodFabrics.com (click here - this fabric is on sale now, and has other color options!). The dress was originally featured on the runaway for the Guy Laroche Spring 2011 collection (image credits Elle.com):

EN: There are plenty of reviews online for this pattern and all are consensual in stating that the armholes are too low and the dress is fairly short (about 34 inches at center back, according to the measurement printed on the pattern). Based on my bust measurement I cut size 14, which has a little less than 3 inches ease around the bust for me (I compared the flat pattern measurements with my body measurements) and I also checked the bust darts placement: size 14 bust apex is in the right place for me. Using a tape measure along the armhole stitching lines (not the cutting lines) and the neckline section that extends the armhole, I could determine that the armhole is indeed too low as demonstrated on my dressform (the distance between my fingers holding the tape corresponds to the measurement between placement dots/squares on the collar):

EN: Based on these facts I raised the armholes by 1 inch on the inner and outer layer pattern pieces and I also lengthened the dress by about 1 1/4" (adjusted all dress pattern pieces except the collar, which is fine for me in terms of circumference; I will see to its height later and adjust if necessary).

EN: After all the pattern pieces were copied and altered on tracing paper, I cut the fashion fabric; there's also an inner layer of lining to cut (pattern pieces #1 and #2 alone) and the sew-in interfacing for both inner and outer collar pieces (pattern #7). For interfacing I'm using blue silk organza. If you're unsure about the fitting of the dress I suggest cutting the lining first and baste it together (including the chest darts); then you can make a mock-up of the collar piece and baste it to the lining. It will give you a pretty good idea of how the dress will fit.

EN: This pattern is rated easy on the pattern envelope but I would rate it as intermediate instead. A lot of attention to detail is needed to set all those neckline pleats correctly and to know what piece goes where and to which side. The high turtleneck collar is also very intriguing and it took me some thorough reading of the instructions to figure it out. I plan on addressing it separately in an upcoming post. The dress body alone has 6 pieces (excluding the lining) and I've numbered them on the line drawing so you can see which is which:

EN: I used a "Serged French Seam" technique, encasing the serged edge inside the seam. All other vertical seams were overedged with the serger, stitched with the sewing machine and pressed flat open. Below there's an example; you can read an article about the 2-thread overedge stitch used in this example by clicking here.

EN: You may notice the fusible stay tape reinforced with a chain stitch, used to stabilize the armholes of the inner layer of the dress (pattern #1 and #2). This tape is available on some retailers for professional use. you can make your own by following this tuturial by Paco Peralta (click here). I also found a similar tape sold online in the UK, sold by meter (click here; the same supplier also sells it in charcoal).---PT: Notem que usei fita termo-colante reforçada com pesponto cadeia para estabilizar as cavas da camada interior do vestido (partes #1 e #2 do molde). Esta fita normalmente vende-se em rolos para os profissionais de costura, mas podem fazer a vossa seguindo as instruções deste passo-a-passo do Paco Peralta (clicar aqui). Também encontrei uma fita semelhante online, vendida a metro no Reino Unido (clicar aqui; o mesmo fornecedor também a vende em antracite).

EN: I find the side zipper on this dress hardly necessary and certainly it doesn't need to be as long as indicated in the pattern envelope. I bought a 9" invisible zipper instead of the 16" called for in the instructions and I'm only applying it because it poses a challenge with all these layers :P. Notice how I stabilized the zipper insertion area on the inner layer with sew-in interfacing (silk organza) and then overedged the SAs with the serger:

Comments

I made several yards of the stay tape using Paco's tutorial, and I love it! I much prefer to stay stitching, which can distort lighter weight fabrics. My current stash is white, but I plan to make several yards in grey. My backing is torn strips of newspaper.

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