WOLFGANG PUCK'S KITCHEN.

A smashing spread

Great guacamole starts with roasted garlic

Back in February, I was at a Hollywood party following the Grammy Awards. There was a big bowl of guacamole, and some of the most famous names in the music business were scooping up the rich Mexican avocado dip without a thought as to whether or not they would fit into their tight jeans the next morning. I didn't join them, and not because I was watching my weight.

Actually, it wasn't really good guacamole. The avocados weren't as ripe as they should have been. The seasonings were dull. And, worst of all, the guacamole had been sitting out for an hour or more and was beginning to darken at the edges.

That made me remember my first visit to a Mexican restaurant in Los Angeles about 25 years ago. The waiter asked if I would like guacamole. I didn't know what he was talking about so, of course, I said yes.

Soon he returned with a big lava rock mortar. With a sharp knife, he cut a ripe avocado in half and whacked the pit with the sharp edge to lodge it on the blade, which he then twisted to remove the pit. (You can remove the pit more safely with a tablespoon.) He scooped the avocado's vivid green flesh into the mortar and began pounding it with a pestle, adding lime juice, minced chilies, chopped onion and cilantro. Then he spooned the mixture into a serving bowl and presented it to us with corn tortilla chips.

It was one of the freshest, most delicious things I had ever tasted.

To this day, I still love good, freshly made guacamole. I've come up with my own version, adding roasted garlic for another rich dimension. And I plan to eat some on May 5, the Mexican holiday of Cinco de Mayo.

Whatever your own vision might be for great guacamole, follow a few simple rules for the best results. Start with flavorful Haas avocados, recognized by their relatively small size, tapered neck and dark, pebbly skin. If you plan to use them the same day, look for perfectly ripe specimens that yield just slightly to thumb pressure, neither rock-hard nor mushy and overripe. If you can only get unripe avocados, ripen them at home inside a brown paper bag at room temperature, checking daily.

Then, make your guacamole fresh, just before serving. Add any seasonings of your choice, such as lemon or lime juice; chilies; onion or shallots; and, if you like, fresh cilantro. And don't forget my roasted garlic! Then serve it with good tortilla chips, potato chips, fresh vegetables or even crackers.

Guacamole with roasted garlic

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 50 minutes

Cooling time: 40 minutes

Yield: 3 cups

Roasted garlic:

1 whole head garlic

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Guacamole:

3 medium, fully ripe avocados, halved, pitted

Juice of 1 lime

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 shallot, minced

2 small jalapeno chilies, stemmed, seeded, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1. For the roasted garlic, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the garlic head on a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil; rub with the olive oil. Wrap the garlic securely in the foil; roast until tender, about 50-60 minutes. Remove from the oven; set aside to cool at room temperature.

2. Unwrap the garlic; halve crosswise with a serrated knife. Squeeze out the softened garlic pulp into a small glass bowl, or scoop it out with a teaspoon or small knife. Cover the bowl; refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Scoop the avocado flesh into a mixing bowl; pour the lime juice over. Lightly mash until still slightly chunky; stir in the cilantro, 1-2 tablespoons of the roasted garlic, shallot, jalapeno and salt. Serve immediately with corn tortilla chips.