Awesome route! Led 1, 3 and 5. The mantel itself didn't feel too bad, though getting stood up on it was spooky in the wind. Much harder was the move on the face to get up to it - side pulls for hands and tiny pockets for feet. Stefan could reach a good sloper on top and thugged it with ease!

Awesome route! Led 1, 3 and 5. The mantel itself didn't feel too bad, though getting stood up on it was spooky in the wind. Much harder was the move on the face to get up to it - side pulls for hands and tiny pockets for feet. Stefan could reach a good sloper on top and thugged it with ease!

Great climb that was unfortunately cut short by rain. Lead the first pitch as a linked 30 metre but had to bail as the entire pitch was slippy which destroyed the confidence of my second (it was probably the sensible thing to do)

with Rick Duke

Great climb that was unfortunately cut short by rain. Lead the first pitch as a linked 30 metre but had to bail as the entire pitch was slippy which destroyed the confidence of my second (it was probably the sensible thing to do)

Glen's first climb on rock! finished the climb just as the heavy rain started, then got the rope stuck in a crack when pulling it through after the abseil, so had to solo back up on wet rock to rescue the rope... not so fun for me but probably an accurate introduction to trad climbing for glen!

with Glen Munday, Ken Drysdale

Glen's first climb on rock! finished the climb just as the heavy rain started, then got the rope stuck in a crack when pulling it through after the abseil, so had to solo back up on wet rock to rescue the rope... not so fun for me but probably an accurate introduction to trad climbing for glen!

Absolutely incredible route, fully deserving of its 3 stars. I led pitch 2 and 4. Pitch 2 onwards is first class climbing, from delicate slabby traversing and face climbing, to jamming up clean crack lines, an awkward step out right from a large pinnacle onto a ledge with poor handholds (foot jam is the key!) and culminating with the crux right at the end in the form of a ridiculous polished mantleshelf which we tackled with all the grace of a pair of beached whales!

Absolutely incredible route, fully deserving of its 3 stars. I led pitch 2 and 4. Pitch 2 onwards is first class climbing, from delicate slabby traversing and face climbing, to jamming up clean crack lines, an awkward step out right from a large pinnacle onto a ledge with poor handholds (foot jam is the key!) and culminating with the crux right at the end in the form of a ridiculous polished mantleshelf which we tackled with all the grace of a pair of beached whales!

Led P1, 3 & 6. Very confused about which was the correct crack on P3.
Update: According to the links below, the guide books (Ground Up & Rockfax selectives) draw a line for pitch 3 that is actually E2 5c...
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/iwan-1.jpg
http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Mot-topo.jpg

Led P1, 3 & 6. Very confused about which was the correct crack on P3.
Update: According to the links below, the guide books (Ground Up & Rockfax selectives) draw a line for pitch 3 that is actually E2 5c...
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/iwan-1.jpg
http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Mot-topo.jpg

We did this as part of an enchainment day so decided to move together on it, which was probably a mistake given that we were wearing rucksacks and it was a bit damp. A step right at the first 'belay' was scary as hell in the wet, although looked green enough regardless, and I put Thom back on Belay as he went over it, deciding to pitch jot from there. The crux move is debatable RE its grade, but definitely stiff with a rucksack on, and gear goes where the fingers have to, so not easy for the leader. Don't know what people rave about - I did not enjoy the climb.

with Thom Jenkinson

We did this as part of an enchainment day so decided to move together on it, which was probably a mistake given that we were wearing rucksacks and it was a bit damp. A step right at the first 'belay' was scary as hell in the wet, although looked green enough regardless, and I put Thom back on Belay as he went over it, deciding to pitch jot from there. The crux move is debatable RE its grade, but definitely stiff with a rucksack on, and gear goes where the fingers have to, so not easy for the leader. Don't know what people rave about - I did not enjoy the climb.

Bit of a mix up, led P1 of Direct route, didn't realise i had reached, the not very obvious belay, and traversed left across lorraine onto 1st belay of the cracks, then Phil led P2 and P3 of the cracks, ab'd off from there and got back to car just as the rain came in.

Bit of a mix up, led P1 of Direct route, didn't realise i had reached, the not very obvious belay, and traversed left across lorraine onto 1st belay of the cracks, then Phil led P2 and P3 of the cracks, ab'd off from there and got back to car just as the rain came in.

A great route, and loads of fun, if you have done this route before don't give your mate any beta and giggle from the comfort of good close belay at you leader struggling to find the key to each crux, you will laugh :)
a very enjoyable route .

A great route, and loads of fun, if you have done this route before don't give your mate any beta and giggle from the comfort of good close belay at you leader struggling to find the key to each crux, you will laugh :)
a very enjoyable route .

A bit of an underwhelming climb in my opinion. For a start, the guidebook description (rockfax) is rubbish. I would recommend doing this in 2 pitches if you have decent 60m halves. Join pitches 1,2,3 then 4,5 together.
Most of the 5 pitches have nice qualities, but would be enjoyable if they were all 3-4 times bigger.
The mantle is a piece of cake and not desperate at all, then the 'glorious arete' is about 4 feet tall! The mantel is no more than 4b.
Finally 'dangerous 60m abseil' down the gully is basically a simple scramble down. Have done much worse ones at Stanage. There is ab tat on most pitches if you wanted to do a multi pitch ab to get off rather than use the east or west gully.

A bit of an underwhelming climb in my opinion. For a start, the guidebook description (rockfax) is rubbish. I would recommend doing this in 2 pitches if you have decent 60m halves. Join pitches 1,2,3 then 4,5 together.
Most of the 5 pitches have nice qualities, but would be enjoyable if they were all 3-4 times bigger.
The mantle is a piece of cake and not desperate at all, then the 'glorious arete' is about 4 feet tall! The mantel is no more than 4b.
Finally 'dangerous 60m abseil' down the gully is basically a simple scramble down. Have done much worse ones at Stanage. There is ab tat on most pitches if you wanted to do a multi pitch ab to get off rather than use the east or west gully.

Led P2+4 - tried to lead Direct VS but couldn't commit below the first belay - backed off, so Matt went up then cut across to the belay for this route - Great fun - perfect weather - I'm just out of practice

Led P2+4 - tried to lead Direct VS but couldn't commit below the first belay - backed off, so Matt went up then cut across to the belay for this route - Great fun - perfect weather - I'm just out of practice

Really enjoyed this, a bit hairy trying to flick the ropes over the bulge and into the chimney-would have taken an unpleasant plunge. the mantelshelf provided some amusement. I blame the steadily widening hole in my rock shoes!

Really enjoyed this, a bit hairy trying to flick the ropes over the bulge and into the chimney-would have taken an unpleasant plunge. the mantelshelf provided some amusement. I blame the steadily widening hole in my rock shoes!

awesome climb, lead all pitches. Climbed 3rd pitch of Lorraine instead as we couldn't resist the look of that amazing corner crack. The final mantle wasn't as hard as everyone bigged it up to be, but certainly a little spicy! loved it

with Matt

awesome climb, lead all pitches. Climbed 3rd pitch of Lorraine instead as we couldn't resist the look of that amazing corner crack. The final mantle wasn't as hard as everyone bigged it up to be, but certainly a little spicy! loved it

Led P1 & P2 (rolled into 1), which was very poorly protected (Had to set up abseil for Rob (3rd climber) to get back down after to the he was unsure to continue climbing with us consider there was only one piece of protection. Led Pitch 4 which was the most enjoyable up the crack. Finally led pitch 6 including the mantle which wasn't as difficult or bold as the guide book seemed to indicate.

with Adam

Led P1 & P2 (rolled into 1), which was very poorly protected (Had to set up abseil for Rob (3rd climber) to get back down after to the he was unsure to continue climbing with us consider there was only one piece of protection. Led Pitch 4 which was the most enjoyable up the crack. Finally led pitch 6 including the mantle which wasn't as difficult or bold as the guide book seemed to indicate.

What a fantastic route! Led P1 & P2, which was very poorly protected. Pitch 3 was greasy at it's best, and slimy at worst, which made it harder than it should have been. P4 is 4a and P5 4b in my opinion. And P6 is definately 5a for the short!

with Bruce Hayward

What a fantastic route! Led P1 & P2, which was very poorly protected. Pitch 3 was greasy at it's best, and slimy at worst, which made it harder than it should have been. P4 is 4a and P5 4b in my opinion. And P6 is definately 5a for the short!

Bloody hell, it was very wet all weekend. the first time when the adjectives hard and severe both seem very appropriate. Loved the 5A crux at the top, it was dry. First 3 pitches were soaked. Did pitch 1&2 in one shot, my lead, luke lead crux at top.

Bloody hell, it was very wet all weekend. the first time when the adjectives hard and severe both seem very appropriate. Loved the 5A crux at the top, it was dry. First 3 pitches were soaked. Did pitch 1&2 in one shot, my lead, luke lead crux at top.

Led P1, and ran together P3 and P4. Al led P2, P5 and the crux pitch. Fine route once accustomed to the polish. P1 was v easy, but felt pretty bold up the groove. Had to step down from the crux and sort out my short-arse sequence, but then felt straightforward.

Led P1, and ran together P3 and P4. Al led P2, P5 and the crux pitch. Fine route once accustomed to the polish. P1 was v easy, but felt pretty bold up the groove. Had to step down from the crux and sort out my short-arse sequence, but then felt straightforward.

First multipitch lead, chuffed I did it clean, climbing near my limit here. Ran pitches 1 and 2 together, easy, enjoyable climbing. Pitches 3 and 4 also together, a little trickier especially as I accidently climbed the crack on the right of the slab (part of Lorraine) which is 4c Parts of this were a little desparate. Nice move coming off pinnacle and on to the slab of pitch 5. Found the crack a little tricky to negotiate, maybe running out of steam? I really wanted to do the mantleshelf of pitch 6 but couldn't commit. Had to take the easier route on the left which proved to be trickier than expected. Definitely tired by this point. Lots of lovely vaired climbing.

First multipitch lead, chuffed I did it clean, climbing near my limit here. Ran pitches 1 and 2 together, easy, enjoyable climbing. Pitches 3 and 4 also together, a little trickier especially as I accidently climbed the crack on the right of the slab (part of Lorraine) which is 4c Parts of this were a little desparate. Nice move coming off pinnacle and on to the slab of pitch 5. Found the crack a little tricky to negotiate, maybe running out of steam? I really wanted to do the mantleshelf of pitch 6 but couldn't commit. Had to take the easier route on the left which proved to be trickier than expected. Definitely tired by this point. Lots of lovely vaired climbing.

only did 1st and last pitch cos i lead lorraine variation in between, nice easy climbing though, apart from the mantel on the last pitch of the cracks was extremely polished making the move fairly hard

with andy gravestock

only did 1st and last pitch cos i lead lorraine variation in between, nice easy climbing though, apart from the mantel on the last pitch of the cracks was extremely polished making the move fairly hard

First Welsh Classic Rock route - Mick started and combined pitches 1, 2 and 3. I led pitch 4 as per the guidebook and then combined 5 and 6 together. The mantelshelf finish is good value on the last pitch!

First Welsh Classic Rock route - Mick started and combined pitches 1, 2 and 3. I led pitch 4 as per the guidebook and then combined 5 and 6 together. The mantelshelf finish is good value on the last pitch!

Bob Caulkwell led, I found the top pitch rather trying while undoing a runner on the ledge before mantelshelf I dropped a Mars bar, it didnt touch until near the bottom. Led it several times since And enjoyed it every time but still find the top pitch hard even though I am nearly 6ft tall

Bob Caulkwell led, I found the top pitch rather trying while undoing a runner on the ledge before mantelshelf I dropped a Mars bar, it didnt touch until near the bottom. Led it several times since And enjoyed it every time but still find the top pitch hard even though I am nearly 6ft tall