Monday, January 28, 2013

We know the
Mesopotamians made rafts with wooden platforms resting on inflated animal skins
to cross rivers . The practice of
Crossing rivers on inflated animal skins
was prevalent in Kashmir also .As per kalhana’s Rajatarangini ,Inflated
Animal Skins were also used in Kashmir for
crossing rivers . I quote

“The enemy made haste
and with armed men and inflated skins , he drew out Jayapida from the midst of
the river and took him prisoner and held a feast . ”

Friday, January 25, 2013

I have uploaded some photographs
of Stone Cutters of Athwajan in kashmir . Right from Pandrethan in the city outskirts , one finds the road side
dotted with shops selling Vokhul , Nyaami , Kaajwath , Gravestones and Building
stones .All cut and chiseled from Devri stone quarries located near PANDRETHAN
Hill in the outskirts of srinagar
city. These stones were also used in Bhudist Chaitya and Temples at Parihaaspora kashmir .There is sufficient
evidence that elephants were also used to carry these heavy stone slabs from
one place to another in Kashmir .Devri stones were extensively used for Temple construction in ancient Kashmir .These
stones have been used for construction of Martand Sun Temple, Awantiswamin
Temples of aantuipoea as well as Gaurisa And Sungadesh Temples of Pattan. Later
the stones were also used for construction of Mosques and other Buildings . These
stones were also tastefully lined in the
foundation of old building in Kashmir.

In one of the uploaded views you
can see stones from the hill being carried in trucks to city for construction
as well as to the stone cutting units located on national Highway near Athawajan
in Kashmir . This area has been famous for Devri stones
since last two thousand years . These stones have also caught the attention of
Lal Ded or Lalleshwari who was born in Sempore ( Near present day Pampore and
proximal to Devri stone Area of Kashmir ). A Devri stone pillar of AWANTISWAMINTEMPLE
Ruins at Awantipora has also been uploaded .

Sunday, January 20, 2013

.Pulwama was carved out of
Anantnag district of Kashmir in 1979. It
is about 40 Kms from srinagar city and is surrounded by Srinagar in North , Poonch
area of Jammu province and Budgam district of Kashmir in west and Anantnag District in East .The
District comprises of three Tehsils namely Traal , Pulwama and Pampore and five developmental Blocks which are
Traal, keller , Pulwama , Pampore and Kakapora .

Main crops of the area are Paddy
, Mustard and Pulses . Fruits like apples , pears cherries are grown in plenty. Delicious and lately the Kulu variety of this
apple is grown all over the area. Almonds and walnuts are also grown in plenty
in this district. This district has brought white revolution in Kashmir and about 60% of
the milk consumed in Kashmir valley comes from
this district alone .

Payer and Narasthan Temples fall in this district .Payar
temple visited by Vigne and Cunningham is just three
killometres from the Pulwama town. Remains of beautiful temples built by
king Awantivarman in Awantipora town just on main Jammu -Srinagar National Highway
also fall in this district .

The ziyarat of Dervesh Sheikh Sharif Ud Din wali
popularly known as Shoag Baab Sahib lies
in Pampore town. The Jwala Ji temple of
khrew also falls in this district. The ziyarat of sufi saint Syed Mantaqi also
lies on the main road near the Awantipora town. A Gurdwara in Awantipora trown
has been built upon the resting place of
Guru Nanak Dev during his visit
to Kashmir
. It is also said that Guru Nanak Dev ji met
Sufi Dervesh Kamaal Sahib kamala sahib at Awantipora only.

Saffron and kashmiri Red Chillies
are also grown in Pampore area this district Pampore also happens to be the
birth place of Kashmir’s greatest saint
poetess Laleshwari or Lal Ded. There used
to be a fresh water spring known as Lal-Traag which was dedicated to this saint poetess . The spring
has possibly dried up due to neglect and the place is a PublicPark now. Poetess Habba Khatoon or Zoonie the
queen of King Yusuf Shah Chak also hailed from a village proximal to present day Pampore town. Pampore is also
famous for the special Kashmiri bread fondly called SHEERMAAL.

A memorial of
well known kashmiri poet late Gh Ahmed Mehjoor has also been set up at village
Mitrigaam in this district.Famous .Khankaah at Traal built by Mir Syed Ali Hamdani lies in this district . The district is now covered by Railway Network laid by
IRCON .

so long so much about Pulwama
.To this post on PULWAMA , I add a poem titled BOAT by
Sherko Bekas well known Kurdish Poet

“ That is not sold over here . Sir you are possibly trying
to purchase Kalaadi of jammu
.This is a Chapaati type of kalaadi. Gujjars make it over here .”

So said the shopkeeper at Shopian when i asked for Kulchaa
type Kalaadi . I could only find Chapaati type Kalaadi at his shop. Kalaadi is specialty
of jammu hills
. It is as solid as Cheese .Gujjars make it from Milk. It tastes something in
between Curd and Cheese. Just Fry it in
the Pan and take it . It pours
out Ghee or fat of its own. I have
relished it at Samroli on Jammu
Srinagar Highway . I have also tasted it at
Udhampur town in Singh Cafeteria .I have also bought the fresh Stock of
Kalaadis from Pehalwaan's shop in Gandhi Nagar Jammu for friends in Srinagar .
How tasty !

This was our visit to shopian in september2009 . I visited
shopian again in 2010 ., 2011 and 2012.
Shopian is a historical town about 52Kms from Srinagar city .It was in 1979 that Pandit
Swaroop Nath saraf headed an all party action committee which started an
agitation demanding that Shopian be made a District .Gh Nabi Azad’s Government finally accorded a district status
to this area in 2007. This district has two assembly segment namely Wachi and shopian .

Mughals would enter kashmir through Shopian only, trekking
through what is now known as Mughal
Road by crossing the Sidau or BudilPass (
14000 feet ).This road has now connected kashmir with Poonch and Rajouri
districts of Jammu.Owing to shortness of this route , it was the most preferred
route of kashmiris to move in and out of Kashmir
valley. From this route one could go straight to Sialkot via Akhnoor or to Lahore via Bhimber . Some
Beautiful places in this area are Seadow , Forests range of Kungwattan, LakeKounsernaag
, River RembiAraa and Aharbal waterfalls . Apart from these places the area is
full of stunningly beautiful forests , meadows and streamlets of water.

Mughals camped in this town while visiting kashmir after crossing PirPanjalMountains. It is said
that the imposing jamia Masjid in the heart of the town dates back to Mughal
period .This mosque catches your attention once you move in the town.I have
visited and stayed in the town many times previously as my sister's husband was
posted over here for about three years .

"Come in . This is a place for offering Prayers to
Allah Subhaan o Tallah . I am none to stop you. Please be comfortable ."

said the Muazinn when i sought permission to go inside Jamia
Mosque located in Shah Mohalla , in the heart of the town . What a beautiful
structure the mosque is ? Imposing entrance ,wooden Pillars , Spacious Halls
for prayers , A spacious and clean courtyard inside and artistically decorated
brickwork , the mosque reflects elegance of Mughal era.The famous Kapalmochan
Teertha of Hindus is also located in this area .People speak Kashmiri , Gojri and Pahaari over here .Horses are used as a mode of transport in this hilly area.

Shopian is also home to apples and walnut . Ambri variety of
apple is grown in this area only. Walnuts are grown in Shopian and Kupwara area
of kashmir . Delicious, American and kullu variety of apples is also now grown
in plenty in this area . A fruit Mandi has also come up in the outskirts of the
town. Trucks are directly loaded from this Market for Delhi and other fruit markets of the country .

Maharaja Ranjit Sigh’s forces marched from lahore and defeated Afghans in a fierce battle in this town in 1819 A D . This decisive battle ended the
rule of Afghans in Kashmir valley . The rule of Afghans had given lot of
pain and suffering in kashmir . The subsequent rule of sikhs did not bring the
much needed relief . Enjoy the views and
permit me to quote some lines from Tawarikh e Hassan with regard to misrule of
Pathans in kashmir .

"During the reign of KarimDad Khan( 1776-1783A D ) the
entire country remained plunged in absolute misery and fear .During this period
everybody high or low , poor or rich , was fleeced of all he possessed. He
ruined the chastity of a thousand girls of both Hindu and muslim communities
and ruined their lives for ever .Many people migrated out from the country
.Heavy fruit Tax was imposed on people who could not meet this demand and they
cut down fruit trees and sold the wood to meet the demand of the government .
In this way the beautiful gardens laid by Mughals around Dal lake were denuded
of all fruit trees."

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

KANYAKUMARI.... Where is river Ganga ? Where is the yamuna ? The ocean does not know the difference . It is all water .(Photo Autar Mota ..What you see close to Vivekananda Rock memorial is tall
stone sculpture of the Tamil poet and philosopher Tiruvalluvar, author of the
Thirukkural. It is about 133 feet in height.

To this photo i am adding a brief story titled " SOHAM , SUFI POETS OF KASHMIR AND THE SAGE OF BELUR "

SOHAM , SUFIS AND THE SAGE OF BELUR

I
am fortunate enough to have seen and heard Shri Ranganathananda ( 1908-2005 ) . He was
an authority on Vedas and Upanishads , Scholar
extraordinary , Philosopher and Head
Monk of Belur Mutt or swami Vivekananda’s Rama Krishna Mission in India . Swami ji
as he was fondly known never talked about narrow religious issues. His
discourses touched issues facing humanity at large , cutting across all
barriers of color , race or religion. In
fact Belur Mutt or Temple is notable for its architecture that fuses
Hindu, Christian and Islamic motifs as a symbol of unity of all religions.

Mohammed
Ali Jinnah once listened to
Ranganathananda's lecture on Islam and Prophet Mohammed (pbuh) and had remarked:“Now I know how a true Muslim
should be.”

Swami
ji declined the Padma Vibhushan as it
was conferred on him in his individual capacity and not for the Mission. swami ji would
often say ;-

“ The
endeavors and conclusions of the sense-bound intellect can not be the last word
in man’s search for truth. An intellectual approach to truth will end only in
agnosticism; and often in cynicism. But the whole being of man seeks to
experience truth, to realize it. … This rising above rationalism to direct
experience and realization, this growth of man from the sensate to the
super-sensual dimension, is the special message of Indian spiritual tradition ”

Once
Swami ji explained the importance of
word SOHAM . I had heard the word in Hindu Bhakti as well as in Muslim Sufi poetry of kashmir. SOHAM- Soo or SOHAM is reflected in the Shrukhs of Nund Reshi
as also in the poetry of Wahab
Khaar , Soachh Kraal , Shamas Faqir,Ahad zargar ,Nyaam sahib , Ahmed Batwaari ,
Rehman Dar ,Rahim Sahib ,Shah Qalandhar
and many more sufi poets of
Kashmir. This concept emerged in sufi poetry due to a unique blending of Mahayana Budhism ,Vedanta and Islamic Tassavuf in kashmiri thought . I quote some other poets who used this concept :-

(1)

Yot yithh zanamuss kenh chhunaa Laarun

Daarnaai daarun Soham Soo

Brahma Vishnu Maheshwar
Gaarun

Daarnaai daarun Soham Soo.

( shah Gafoor )

After being born ,What is here to gain ;

So hold SOHAM kriya for existence .

Create
Brahma , Vishnu and Maheshwara

And own SOHAM kriya for existence .

(2)

Raahe badh Nishi kar Traahi
Bhagwaan

Puniyee Paap Traavithh kar Yaksaan.

Voan samad Miran Shastra heyoo

Paru OM Soo Om
SOHAM Soo

( Samad Mir )

Be away from the misleading path

Think not of evil or Good but be unvarying ,

Samad Mir speaks the message of shastras

And recite OM and SOHAM
soo .

(3)

Tosas Om ki Punn Khaaer Massaai

Baa Rasaa rasaai Kornuss Tayaar

SOHAM Soo Yaar Vuchha Novanussaai

Baa Rasaa rasaai Kornuss
Tayaar

( Assad Parray )

I spun Omkar in shahtoos and
offered it to the lord

And he completed
me slowly and steadily .

He made me to befriend SOHAM soo

And he completed
me slowly and steadily .

(4)

Mar Zinda par SOHAM soo

Hamas Damas Saeit
zaan

( Ahmed Raah )

Die while existing and recite
SOHAM soo

Know linkage of breath control
with HAMAS..

WHAT IS SOHAM

As per swami
Ranghanathananda SOHAM originated from VEDAS .Soham is Paramount when a person tries to identify
himself with the universe or ultimate reality .Swami ji explained that when a
child is born the first cry that the universe
hears from his Mouth is

“ Koham ? Koham ? ”

“ Who am I ? Who Am I ? ’

The universe in turn
responds with words

“ SOHAM ! SOHAM ! ”

“ Your are what I am ! You are
What I am !”

Added swami ji that the word is also a MANTRA in Tantrism
that comes from Ajapa Japa or a meditation that is done without uttering
a word. Swami ji explained that SOHAM
consists of two words . Soooooo….
And Hummm. While sooo means the tender sound of inhalation and Humm implies the
exhalation.

SOHAM IN KASHMIR’S TRIKA
PHILOSOPHY

The Pranayaama Kriya
(Breathing Technique for the vital Pranaa or life. Prana enters the body through the breath and
is sent to every cell through the circulatory system. Prana creates life by
allowing the heart to beat ) that
was performed extensively in kashmiri pandit households was nothing
but Ajapa japa or SOHAM ( sooo plus hummm… ). It is a Kriya Yoga and also an essential
ingredient of Kashmir’s luminous Shaiva
thought which is primarily aimed at
realization of existing identity with
universal consciousness .

SOHAM when
reversed becomes HAMSA OR HAMSO which means
‘I AM THAT ’ . HAMSA OR
HAMSO also refers to SWAN . kashmiri poets have used word RAAZHANS
for the word HAMSA or
HAMSO . And in kashmir’s shaivism
HAMSO or HAMSO is nothing but Atman .

kashmir’s shaivism
refers to the Phenomenal world as real
and calls it shakti while the Advaita sidhanta holds it as Maya or
illusion. In this way kashmir’s shaivism
is a contrast to Adi Shankara’s Advaita .Another aspect peculiar to TRIKA DARSHANA
or kashmir’s
shaivism is that it accepts no restrictions between caste , race or sex. TRIKA
never accepted the supremacy of
VEDIC CASTE SYSTEM.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

If you visit Bijbehara and cross Jhelum to go to Pahalgham via SriGufwara , you notice a
beautiful garden just on the right side immediately after crossing the bridge .
This garden with lofty chinars, Green turf , beautiful flower beds , Fruit
trees and Central water canal makes you to believe as if you are in Shalimar garden of srinagar. The garden at Bijbihara was
laid sometime in middle of 17th centuary . Infact Shah Jahan wanted to build two gardens on each sides of river Jhelum.
Accordingly ,extensive plantation of chinars was done in the area the
opposite to this DarashikohGarden
by Mughals . In layout , this garden resembles Shalimar Garden of srinagar Yes
the Garden is not terraced and the paucity of water in the CentralCanal
is noticeable . Some people call this Garden as Wazir Bagh .Perhaps many in
kashmir do not know details about this well maintained Garden . Kudos to Dr
Haseeb Drabu Ex. CMD J&K Bank Limited for taking over the maintenance of
this Garden from Floriculture Department . Men like him have revived the glory
of some of the forgotten parks and gardens of the state .Walk way on Jammu canal is a shining
example .

.

Dara Shikoh( 1615-1659 AD ) , the
unfortunate Mughal prince , son of Shah Jahan and his queen Mumtaz Mahal ,built
some memorable gardens and buildings in kashmir . Dara was gifted builder ,
thinker and patron of fine Arts .Dara Shikoh is also credited with building
some of the most impressive buildings and parks with unique Mughal architecture
- among them the tomb of his wife Nadir Banu in Lahore, the tomb of Hazrat Mian
Mir also in Lahore,the Dara Shikoh Library in Delhi, the Akhun Mullah Shah
Mosque in Srinagar, Pari Mahal garden in Srinagar and the beautiful garden in
Bijbihara in Kashmir are worth mentioning . Dara was a follower of Hazrat Mian
Mir a Qadiri sufi saint of Punjab . It is
pertinent to add that Mian Mir was invited by sikhs to lay the foundation stone
of GoldenTemple
at Amritsar.

.

Dara was a personal friend of
sixth sikh Guru. He got 50 Upnishads translated into persian in an effort to
find common ground between Islam and Hinduism , the two great religions of India.
Dara was defeated by Aurangzeb and Murad at a battle field near Agra some time in 1658.
Subsequently Aurangzeb took over Agra
fort and deposed emperor Shah Jahan . Dara was brought to Delhi, placed on a filthy elephant and
paraded through the streets of the capital in chains. Kept in dark cell for
some time ,He was beheaded on the night of August 30, 1659. How Painful! . No
less painful is the history of kashmir .I conclude this post with lines from a
poem of Bulgarian poet Nikola Vaptsarov…….

Riding on seven Horses, The Sun is about to Enter this part
of the world…..And to Welcome it , the morning breeze started its joyous dance
on the river surface…To this Photo i Add Lines from the poem “SIFAARAT KHAAN E JAAN
“ By Ali Sardar jafri