PORT RICHMOND — On a recent rainy morning at Italo A&S Fine Foods, sausage sizzled on the stove for chicken scarpariella while scents of fresh-squeezed lemon and rosemary wafted through the kitchen.

Amid the clang and clatter of sheet pans getting a scrub in the sink, it is business as usual at 1566 Forest Ave. except for one matter: The long-time Port Richmond butcher shop has new owners, Italo Perito and his son, Gerardo.

"We make everything here with passion," said Italo, who hails from the Amalfi coast and comes from many years in the butcher shop business.

He opens a glass door refrigerator to show off pints of garlic-flecked marinara sauce plus a freezer full of prepared tripe plus puttanesca, vodka and fra diavolo sauces. Hunks of pancetta coated with salt, pepper and a heavy hand of paprika hang from hooks over display cases filled with sausage rings and ready-to-cook chicken cordon blue.

The store has a slightly different look these days, with some displays switched around and bins of Melone Brothers bread presented a bit closer to the meat case. Italo also sells ravioli branded with his name on it.

However, with Mike Viola tending the counter and other familiar faces in the store, this cast of characters is the almost same as the old days. Andres "Alex" Estudillo preps chicken breast and readies the counter area for the impending lunch rush.

Susan DeLuca, who has worked in the store for 13 years, still makes her signature eggplant parmigiana: Four layers of fried eggplant slices and store-made mozzarella ever-so-carefully ladled with marinara sauce.

The only thing missing from this picture is Bruno Pica, the original proprietor and the one whose namesake remains on the signs outside.

"The store's original location was at 1640 Forest Ave.," said a recently retired Pica. "Lum Chin was on one side and I had the corner store."

In 1982, he bought the strip mall that houses the current operation.

And, by the way, the letters "A&S" stand for Anthony Schicchitano, the personable, famed butcher who established a pork store at 274 Fifth Ave. in Park Slope.

"Back then, they called that South Brooklyn," said Pica. He explained that the A&S locations spun off from the original concept do not translate to a franchise. Instead, they are independently owned shops that use "A&S" both as a brand and for buying power. A&S butcher-proprietors learned their sausage- and mozzarella-crafting skills from Schicchitano himself.

But now, Italo's hands shape the mozzarella. He makes the creamy cheese into loaves and bocconcini, little balls of washed curd seasoned with fresh garlic, basil and red pepper flakes. He methodically spoons slow-cooked marinara sauce into quart containers. He also assumes the task of making the sausages — chicken with sun-dried tomato and broccoli raab, cheese with parsley, pork links and coils seasoned with fennel or spiced with hot pepper.

Still, in the inventory is "Holiday Sausage," something a pork store loyalist here would know to ask for.

"That's a Bruno thing," said Italo, with a toothy grin: Fresh sausages made with provolone, sun-dried tomato and broccoli raab.

"Plus wine," adds Italo.

"You try. You like. You buy," said Italo as he headed back behind the counter to make sandwiches.