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broke-off CCM fitting in my X-valve, what shoud i do?

I broke off my CCM macro line air fitting so it's flush with my X-Valve, and there is nothing at all to grip onto. How would I ever get it out now, it's Teflon taped in really tight, that's why I broke the head off trying to twist it out of the hole?

I broke off my CCM macro line air fitting so it's flush with my X-Valve, and there is nothing at all to grip onto. How would I ever get it out now, it's Teflon taped in really tight, that's why I broke the head off trying to twist it out of the hole?

Say wat??? any pics man? is this fitting the older one that you needed a wrench to install the fitting? if not try the allen wrench thats used to install tha newer fittings? Wow man thats tha first time i heard of that happening??

dang that sucks man, ive stripped out a couple npt plugs in asa's and have used a drill to drill out most of the plug then used a stainless dental pic and tweaked out a bit to get the rest out; im not sure what the fittings are made of though, the plug was just aluminum...i think nobody has the best idea though...

No expert but here is a thought......Possibly get some small flate head screw drivers and wedge them in the gaps where easy out and broken fittings leave voids, and then channel lock the bundle. Gently try backing out while maintaining counter pressure on the valve so the flat head screw drivers don't dislodge from the gaps between broken fitting and easy out. You could also grab the bundle ( two or three) screw driver heads wedged in the gaps of easy out in a vise with the flat head pointing up, this may allow you better counter pressure on the valve while trying to back it out.

I'd suggest the machine shop, they have tons of experince removing broken tools. The $40- 50 bucks you'll spend will save a $200 valve. And they can do it without marring up your valve because they got the tools to hold it.

wow i never thought teflon tape would be stronger than loc-tite eh? every now and then a thread will pop up asking to stop using loc-tite and to use teflon tape cause fitting w/loc-tite was to tight for them to remove tha fitting...haha this place is Krazy!!!

I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).

You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.

I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).

I spoke with Melissa at CCM. She said to try "ED Ming"? (from Flash Gordon?)

You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.

I bought one of those flamers to make Creme Brulee, that sound like a good idea.

You can remove the broken extractor using an annodize process. Take the valve completely apart so that only the section with the broken piece is remaining. Mix up a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water and put it in a plastic tray. Put a piece of aluminum inside the tray on the bottom. This piece of aluminum has to have an aluminum wire running out of the solution. If you have a plastic grate to sit on the aluminum on the bottom of the tray, it would be great. Connect a +12V computer power supply line to the valve section using aluminum wire or rod. Make sure there is a good electrical connection or it won't work. An aluminum rod threaded into the valve at the field strip screw hole might be the way to go. Run a tap in first so that any annodize in the threads is removed. Put the valve into the solution so that it is completely covered. Connect the 12 negative lead to the wire/rod connected to the aluminum on the bottom of the tray. Turn on the power supply and watch the bubbles coming from the ferrous metals. You might have to make waves near the bubble area to allow the bubbles to release from the metal which will allow new acid to come in contact with the area. After a few minutes, the ferrous metals will be totally dissolved.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.