Nicole Miller

Nicole Miller went for a harder edge this season, and her models, kitted out in knit skullcaps and bunched-up legwarmers, appeared ready to take on the New York streets. Cityscapes popped up on prints, and dresses came short, dark, and ruched. The main focus, though, was on coats. Biker jackets were done in leather and wool; a resin-coated trench fell on the cheap side of shiny.

The best looks were layered. One all-black outfit was especially appealing: a chiffon tunic tucked under a body-wrapping cashmere hoodie and a silk and wool jacket, worn with a pair of skinny scuba pants. It was the type of chic, I'm-not-trying outfit off-duty models always seem to nail, and Miller dished it out in several cool variations.