Ship's log for the circumnavigating Saint Francis 50 catamaran, "Swingin on a Star".

Onari

Randy02/18/2009, Namonuito Atoll

Last night was not the best sailing night, we rarely saw less than 20 apparent wind, often 25, and the seas were fairly big and steep. Many squalls plagued our groove requiring boat operations in the middle of the night. We finally quadruple reefed the jib and I even thought about putting reef three in the main. The boat was fine, we were just going too fast. Hideko or I would go inside to get a drink, come back to the helm and the wind would be 25 knots on the beam and the boat would be doing 9 knots or more bashing through the seas.

With a scrap of jib flying and the double reefed main we still made an average of over 7 knots. The passage was only 125 miles so we had to go into a deep, off course, broad reach to keep the wind below 25 in the squalls and the VMG under 8. Then we'd head up and fore reach a bit at 3 knots and a vmg of 2 or so until our eta moved back into the daylight.

After an evening of yacht slowing antics and bouncing seas we arrived at the Namonuito pass (if you can call it that) right at sunrise. The Namonuito atoll is more like a huge 40 mile wide bank with little islands in each of its three corners. Fortunately for us there is also a set of islands along the NE facing side of the atoll. We knew no one who had been here and we know of no guide for the place, so we had a chart and the sailing directions only. Sometimes the reality diverges significantly from the image the chart gives you. The area in the middle of the NE side of the atoll has a large island called Onari and several smaller ones to the NW connected by reef. It looked to have the properties of a decent anchorage. It wasn't mentioned in the sailing directions which was a little ominous.

We picked a spot to enter the bank that showed 500 feet of water, just west of the protection offered by the Piaaras islands in the SE corner. The sailing directions suggest the next big passage to the west. Our pass got down to 80 feet before dropping back down to the 120-150 foot norm on the bank. There may be some shoals on the bank but it all looked pretty deep around our track.

The seas might have been a bit steeper on the bank once out from behind Piaaras. There is nothing to tell you that you are in an atoll from the surface except the peaky waves, there is no barrier reef to speak of. It was another 10 mile beat from the "pass" to the anchorage. As we approached we could see the 3 meter-ish swell making a spectacular display on the reef to the south of the islands.

Once in the protected arch of the reef and islands we found a huge area with large sand patches, and some intervening coral, all 30-40 feet deep. There was a fair bit of swell rolling in on the beam. A minor annoyance for a catamaran but monohulls be warned. There might be flatter spots and it may mellow out overnight (low tide), we'll have to see.

As we came in the people living in the little village (estimated 200 folks) began to shout and wave. We asked for permission to anchor and they welcomed us heartily. By the time we had the anchor set there were 20 people around us in dug out canoes. A standard FSM Yamaha skiff arrived under paddle bearing the chief. The boat had a 40hp Yamaha outboard but no gas. The chief, Max, was a wonderful gentleman and we had a nice chat with him and the guys. We gave him some coffee after he mentioned that they get a small ship about twice a year and have little in the way of products from the mainland.

A second Yamaha skiff arrived after a bit bearing the mayor. The mayor had gas. He also welcomed us and asked us to come visit the village and perhaps take in some local dancing. Talk about a completely different experience. We told everyone we were going to take a nap but that we'd love to visit later. One of the guys even promised to take me spear fishing. Soon Angelique and Whistler were arriving and we became old hat. Everyone said goodbye and headed over to greet the other two boats.

Eric doesn't smoke but he always carries cigarettes which is the first thing guys on an island will ask you if you can spare. I try not to promote smoking but the islanders really enjoy it and probably have bigger challenges to their longevity than cancer. We'll drop off some school supplies and I think At gave them some gas and rice.

The islands are beautiful and flush with azure water, reefs, white sand beaches, and palm covered isles. From what the locals tell me the reefs are rich in sea food. I can believe it given the size of the place and the population of only 200 here. There are villages on the other islands as well, so perhaps 1,000 people live on this open bank atoll with a 30-40nm diameter.

Happy to be on the hook and tired from the busy night, nap time came promptly.

After a mellow morning with some squalls blowing by we started to do final checks on the boat. Eric and Jeff on Whistler left for the atoll at around 11AM. I hope they go slow or they'll arrive in the dark. As it turns out we would all leave today. The seas were 3 meters today and coming down tomorrow but the wind was 15 today and coming up to 20 tomorrow. Hideko and I were thinking we could day sail Namonuito at 110 miles with 20 knots on the beam. Then Angelique called on the VHF.

The local guys on the fiberglass boat came out to Angelique and demanded a $60 anchoring fee. We had of course already paid the port plenty of fees and were told that we could stage up here no problem by John, the harbor master. At told them nothing doing and they left mad. We'll we don't stay where we're not welcome.

We toyed with sailing up to a deserted island (maybe some peace!?) but in the end decided to head for Namonuito reefed down for an overnight rather than messing around. Angelique left before us and had no problem getting out the pass. Eric had called back to let us know that the track was good but to bias north. The chart here needs an offset but even if you offset it some parts line up with reality but then others are still off a bit. You can't get the whole chart dialed in perfectly.

So here we are in, what the chart calls, the Philippine sea. We should arrive at Namonuito in the early morning. We have double reefed the main and jib to keep the speed down under 7 knots. The seas are reasonable and the wind is 15ish just behind the beam. The sunset squall program is in progress and we are hoping to dodge as many as possible. Angelique is off our beam and Whistler is somewhere ahead but out of VHF range.

We are hopefull that the folks out in the atolls will be friendly and kind, capacities we are beginning to miss here in FSM.

It is the day before the anniversary of operation hailstone and we are off. Like so many of the most valuable Japanese war ships those many years ago, leaving before the air strike on the 17th. I'm not sure if any kind of ceremony or Japanese visit was planned but it would have been nice to have witnessed it if it did take place. As it was, the officials and the weather, once again, dictated our movements.

With the exception of one 12 hour period we have had big wind while here at Chuuk. The lagoon has been pretty rough on the boat rides out to dive the more distant wrecks. Chuuk Lagoon is a lagoon, but it behaves more like a small sea. The distance from the port at Weno to the barrier reef in the direction we're headed is over 11 miles. The fetch and average depth of 150 feet or so makes for short, steep seas.

Watching the weather we have found February to be a big wind month, at least in 2009. The area just north of Guam sees 25 knots frequently and we have had high surf warnings almost continually. We have planned our trip to Guam as an overnight to Namonuito Atoll followed by a double or triple overnight to Guam. A week of days with seas under 3 meters and wind 20 knots or less along that track has not been forthcoming. We ultimately decided to stage up at a little island in the northwestern part of the lagoon 7 miles from Weno port today. From here we will wait for the seas to come down bellow 3 meters and then head out to Namonuito. Seas are 3.8 today/Monday, 3.3 meters tomorrow/Tuesday and 2.7 Wednesday.

With the wind at 20 +/- knots it will be a fast trip for us. Namonuito is only 110 from reef to reef and we usually make a good 9 knots in these conditions, assuming settled weather without too many squalls. If things look right I think we will try to take off tomorrow just before dawn and make for a pass in the reef just 4 miles ENE of here. We should arrive at Namonuito a couple hours before sunset and make the anchorage before sunset as well. Then we'll recheck the weather and see how the rest of the fleet is doing before deciding to leave for Guam the next day or the day after. This will put us into Guam on Saturday or Sunday.

We went into the Blue Lagoon this morning for breakfast and one last visit to the little store up the road. The eggs benedict at the Blue Lagoon are not bad and it is a nice setting overlooking the anchorage. The Odyssey live aboard dive boat was there changing divers out for the new week. There were also some US military from Guam in town to train locals on emergency procedures.

Angelique had already anchored in the port by the time we made way. We anchored behind them but after contacting port control it became clear that we were going to have to tie up to satisfy the inflexible officials (particularly immigration, they are too lazy to get out of their car much less get on a dinghy). A large Japanese cargo ship was inbound but the port captain let us tie up to the A berth. This is the best spot on the quay, as it is actually inside the fishing/small boat harbor and much more protected from the wind and swell. The small boats also tend to go slower here and you don't get waked as badly.

It was clear that the officials were not coming for an hour or two, so we dinghied over to the Truk Stop for lunch and some final internet. At and Dia on Angelique were doing some final shopping as well. When we saw Whistler sail by we radioed with the hand held and Eric informed us that he had picked up a British guy named Jeff as crew to Guam. All of the flights in this part of the world converge on Guam, so getting a ride to Guam works with almost any flight plane. Jeff was just getting into sailing so it was a perfect arrangement for all.

We cleared out with far less hassle than clearing in and only had to deal with three organizations rather than five. Immigration still required us to print them a crew list on exit (even though it was the same as the one we gave them on entrance and they had all of our passports). Port charged us $185 and that was after we talked them out of $25 for one night of stay on the quay, forced upon us. In total (in and out) we paid about $275 to officials to be here for two weeks on our own hook (or a yacht hostile quay). It is by far the most expensive country I have been to and certainly one of the least favorite. Diving the amazing collection of wrecks is the only reason I can think of to come to Chuuk, and I would recommend flying in to stay on a live aboard dive boat rather than visiting with your own yacht. Unfortunately FSM controls a vast area of ocean, for safety and comfort many yachts will want to make stops inside FSM territory when transiting the area.

The officials, other than port which was expensive but always very friendly and reasonable, demanded that we depart immediately after checking out. Rational behavior did not fit into their doctrine. We said little, paid our fees and left.

We arrived at Fanos island, seven miles away, just before sunset. We have been warned by everyone to avoid the Tol group and everything around it. The best passes on the west barrier are in this area. Upon inspection of the charts we discovered that there is also a decent pass with 30 meters of water in it four miles from Fanos. So we decided to anchor behind Fanos until we were ready to depart.

We arrived an hour before sunset and it was getting tricky to read the water. The island has a lot of coral heads on the southeast end but we found reasonable shelter and room for three boats at the north west end in 40 feet, fairly close to shore. Angelique came in just after us and Whistler arrived a bit after sunset. Soon after some guys in a fiberglass boat from the island came out to give us drinking coconuts. I was just lamenting to Hideko about our lack of drinking coconuts. It was like magic. The guys were very friendly but didn't speak much English. They were looking for cigarettes but offered the same courtesy to the other boats (Eric had some smokes for them) and then they headed back to shore.

Fanos is small but lovely. The anchorage is good in north to northeast wind. The reef around the southeast point gives you some protection from the easterly seas. The bottom is sand and coral. Too much coral to be optimal for sure. The island has a few structures on it but looks to be sparsely inhabited.

We settled in for a nice evening and looked forward to spending a beautiful day here at Fanos tomorrow.

We went out diving today. I brought my video rig. Unfortunatly I didn't have my morning coffee and neither did I have my reg. Bag cleaned out, gear rinsed, everything always stowed in the same place, just no reg. Such a bummer.

The lagoon was very choppy. We had decided to dive the Rio Maru, which was a high priority for me :-(. It was a llong ride in really steep stuff, then I got to sit on the bouncing boat for an hour. At least Eric got to see the Rio. He kindly down played it.

We stopped by Swingin' on a Star during the surface interval to grab my reg. Note to self, if running a dive boat, always have a spare reg/mask/fins/bc for brain dead guests.

Due to the conditions we decided to dive the Heian again because it is close and in somewhat protected water. The vis was not great but I got enough footage to edit together a clip long enough to go with Heart's Mistral Wind. It was a fun dive and a great, if blustery day out on the water.

We waited for the dive boat this morning but they didn't come. It turned out that our cancel message was delivered for yesterday but the reschedule message didn't make it. So we rescheduled again. We're looking forward to getting one more dive in before we leave.

For those not in the know, Chuuk Lagoon (Truk Lagoon as it was known during WWII) has possibly the highest concentration of ship wrecks of any place in the world. It was the Japanese equivalent of Pearl Harbor during WWII. The US decided not to try to take Truk because it was heavily fortified. Instead the US enacted operation Hailstone which involved a huge carrier assault by air over two days. Several times the number of explosives dropped on Pearl were dropped here and over 220,000 tons of ship sank to the bottom over the two days. All the wrecks are Japanese and there are over 100 ships planes and other craft to explore.

One thing I'm not too happy about is the Chuukese reluctance to return the remains of the dead to Japan. The Chuukese claim the Japanese tourists are important to the economy and if the remains are allowed to return to Japan many who come to honor the dead will not return to Chuuk. This is a pretty callous attitude if you ask me.

We spent the day getting the boat ready and then met everyone over at the Sunset Bar at the Blue Lagoon Resort. We are all looking forward to visiting the Philippines. As luck would have it there were two Philippino guys at the bar. It was great talking to them about the places we were hoping to visit. They gave our route through Lette and the central islands on to Palawan and down to Borneo the thumbs up for great scenery and good safety.

They also told us about beer and food. Particularly beer. The beer is reported to be 15 US cents a can. I had a Philippino beer at the Sunset Bar as we chatted. As I drank the second one I noticed it was 6% alcohol (not by reading the can). Six percent beer for 15 cents. Hmmm, that could be dangerous.

It was overcast this morning. Not surprising after the crazy winds last night. We anchored such that the entire circle around our anchor sounded out safe for swinging, but you still never like to have the wind blowing you directly ashore. The light gradient wind last night allowed the squalls blowing b y to do just that. We were facing west for a good part of the evening, then north, then south. The wind was light but just enough to wing us all over the place.

We were going to go out diving but wanted to have good visibility for what might be our last dives. We tried to hail the shop on 16 but I really didn't expect to reach them. Chuuk is not a VHF culture.

Surprisingly the port responded. They told us they would call the shop for us and cancel the dive until tomorrow. Then after a successful phone call they called us back on the VHF to confirm. What service from harbor control! Who said radio to telephone is dead?

We did some work on the boat and tried to catch up on the internet a bit more. We have had some mosquitoes the last few nights and Hideko went on a bug killing rampage today.

In the afternoon Eric and I went to the dock by the Blue Lagoon dive shop with the dinghy. From here you can walk to the store and buy gas. We needed to fill both of our jugs and the tank after all of the long distance driving at Kapingamarangi. The gas is $5 a gallon here but only $4 in town. For a small amount it is worth the convenience and gas savings to just pop in here.

We spent the evening on Angelique II. Dia fixed a wonderful dinner with a cruiser recipe for peanut soup that she made stealing the show, in my opinion. We played Rummiecub after dinner which was very fun. It is apparently a cruiser classic that we hadn't yet run across.

We spent the day on the Internet today. Still trying to get the blog updated. The service here is not super fast but not bad. The connection drops from time to time though and this makes it hard to upload photos or to download large files. Things are a little better at the resort than on the boat but not much.

We were on Eric's boat for dinner a while back and he put on April Wine, Nature of the Beast. I hadn't heard that album since high school. What a great record. I had it on vinyl, but like so much of my music from the 70s it disappeared somewhere between UCSB and Los Angeles.

It is nice to live in the modern world (even when you're in a place like Chuuk), I went onto Amazon and boom, $7.95 and a few downloads later... I now have the April Wine album. I have had to download some of the tracks several times because if you lose the connection during a download you end up with a drop out or pop in the track (this is astonishing to me because a first year CS student could write a downloader that would guarantee the blocks downloaded matched those on the server).

The problem with Amazon is that their "you might also like..." algorithm is too good. As I finished with April Wine, it asked me why I haven't replaced that Montrose album I haven't heard in so long, or what about Ted Nugent Weekend Warriors? Sammy Hagar Standing Hampton? Van Halen Fair Warning? If the download connection worked better I'd be in big trouble.

As it turned out the big trouble came when I checked my MasterCard statement. I discovered $6,000 in charges at AutoZone, Kmart, and 7/11in the US over 2 days. This is our first big credit card theft, so we'll see how Citi deals with it. We have been pretty careful with our info but after three years of buying almost everything online, I guess we were due. The funny part is that Citi shuts us off every time they see a charge outside of the US (which is where we always are) and they let these obviously fraudulent charges go rampant for two days in the US with no worries.

Guam is getting some nasty frontal conditions right now and seas are predicted to run up to 13 feet this weekend. We are looking at Monday as our departure day so we'll see how things develop.