I just bought a 2006 Dodge 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Shortbed with 120xxx miles. It was a bank repo and ran great for the few miles I put on it. I drove it home and parked it. I was power washing some another cummins I have and went ahead and washed the mud out from under the hood of my new truck. Tried to be as careful as possible. Made sure not to start the truck for hours, that way if any water got in anyplace it shouldn't it would dry before it shorted something. Hours later, went to start and the truck did nothing but crank. The check engine light flashed. Hooked up my OTC genisys scanner and it couldn't communicate with the ecm. Checked all my fuses under the hood. They all were ok. Pulled the ecm, didn't smell funny but figured I got water in there. Ordered a junk yard ecm on the 25th of June. Same part number. Same year and style truck. Same software it appears. Fast forward to today. Finally came today. Install it and nothing. Just cranks. The only difference is the check engine light stays on steadily light it should. Pulled all the electric plugs I could find, verified clean connections and no bent pins. Still nothing. My scanner still won't communicate with the ecm. The pictures below are of the new and old ecm. I did notice the bent pin on the new ecm and fixed that. Can't find any fused in the truck, just under the hood. Please help. I have a $16k paper weight! I can't even move it because it won't shift into neutral!

they may have the same numbers but the info inside is not the same. you will have to get the new one reflashed, i honestly doubt that power washing ruined the first one, i have gone thru a lot of water and crap and have never shorted one out. i would check all your plugs on the fuel rail and stuff before jacking anymore with the ecm

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Pulled all the plugs I could find on in the engine bay. Of course the truck is parked across the road. With every air hose I could find, I made it over there. Pulled apart and blew out ever connector. None seamed to have water in it. I had washed it on the 24 of June. Thats almost 2 weeks to dry. Tried the new and old ecm. Still nothing but cranking. Is there some kind of theft deterrent system I might have tripped? I had smelled an electrical short the first time I cranked on it back on the 24. Since I couldn't connect with the ecm I figured it was that. But it doesn't smell bad. Nothing does. Tried grounding the ecm another way and still no anvil. Could it be...

1. A theft deterrent system? Since the truck won't shift into neutral. Is something locking the neutral safety switch?
2. What sensor would keep a truck from running? Do these have crank sensors?
3. Why won't my scanner connect with either ecm? All my fuses and grounds look good.

Called the dealership. They say the ecm for my truck will only work for my truck. That the junk yard one won't work because of it programing. They can't reflash a used one either. $2010 for a new one. $1688 my cost plus $115 to reflash it! %$^&*(# HELP!

On page 177 on the owners manual it states that item #14 is the security light on the cluster. It also says "The security light will also come on for about two seconds when the ignition is first turned on." Mine does this, but instead of going off it after that, it starts flashing. Is this supposed to happen or the the security system cause me the problems?

Sentry Key. Page 13 "The "security light", located in the instrument cluster, will illuminate for about 3 seconds when the ignition switch is first turned to the ON position. If the vehicle electronics do not receive a valid signal from the ignition key, the "security light" will flash continuously to signal that the vehicle has been immobilized. If the "Security Light" remains on during vehicle operation, it indicates a fault in the systems electronics. If this option was ordered, all of the keys provided with your new vehicle have been programmed to the vehicle electronics.

you can get an ecm from other places i believe. yes the security system will shut the truck down. If your running a different ecm it will not recognize your key and stop the truck from starting.. i dont believe that they cant re-flash your ecm.. pm a guy on her called torque monster he had issues with his ecm and can tell you if they can re flash an old one or not

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I found someone to reflash the used ecm. Installed it today. Truck still won't start. Used starting fluid (I know I know its terrible for a diesel) and the truck would run. So the obviously the fuel is cut. But why? I think the immobilizer. Dash security light still flashing non-stop compared to twice and done. Also my scanner will not connect with the ecm, or any other module for that matter. Would the immobilizer interrupt power and/or ground to the ECM? Foolish question, but the only fuse panel on these trucks are under the hood, no fuses in the truck correct?

WOW...i thought id be made fun of if i asked that question but i had the exact same problem not even 6 months ago... lol

OK...before you try this please note im not an expert on deisels, nor will i steer you in the wrong direction ( on purpose ).... it sounds to me that it has something to do with ur anti theft immobilizing your rig. i had this SAME problem on my dodge 1500 ( gasser, i know but still might work )

Turn the key till ur dash clusters come on 3 times, then try to crank.... if its the anti theft immobilizing your rig. then there is default way to turn it off. this is the most commen for dodge.. gas trucks anyway...

if that still does not work. open ur fuse pannel and replace your fuel pump fuse with a fuse 5 or 10 bigger. if it cranks after that. then turn it off and replace with the stock fuse. if not then it is an anti theft problem. the dealership should be able to hook up to it. considering the dodge dealership where i live uses a system called " Anti-TTrax 5.0 ". and when they hook it up it asks for a default ecm password. maybe thats why ur OTC wont communicate with ur ecm because ur not the dealer...

However like i said im no expert. just trying to help a bro in need. if this helps in any way. then ur welcome lol. if not. i tried lol

I may be wayy wrong here but it clearly seems like a key issure here. You stated that the red light continues to blink when the ignition is on right? Well the section you pulled from the owners manual clearly states that if the light continues to flash, the vehicle is immobilized because the computer is not receiving a valid signal from the key. Take that sucker to the dealer and have them get your keys programmed

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