Sunday, January 31, 2016

Diversity was the theme for last week’s Australia Day Wine Tasting in the Royal Hibernian Academy in Dublin, a theme that was well illustrated indeed with over 200 wines to be tasted.*

Everything from a high quality Tasmanian sparkling wine, Jansz Premium Cuvee NV, to a d’Arenberg Rare Tawny (had that lined up for my very last sip but, stupidly, forgot about it - next time!). And so much good stuff in between, including a special Focus Table for Shiraz and Chardonnay for which the country is justly famous. Diversity is rampant, according to Hugh Johnson. "And we can choose: the full-on or the nicely judged."

Wine Australia is happy that Ireland “maintains its love of Australian wines, with bottled imports up 26%. Higher price point segments are pushing the overall value up, helped by the advantages of the exchange rate.”

There was no shortage though of lower priced "nicely judged" wines at the show, some very well known ones like the Casella Yellowtail (lovely Chardonnay), the less well-known Kelly's Patch selection (most of them easy drinking and easy on the pocket at €11.99, plus a couple especially developed for restaurant lists), Deakin Estate’s list includes an award winning Sauvignon Blanc (Victoria) along with an impressive Artisan’s Blend (Semillon and Sauvignon blanc).

At the top end of the price scale you had memorable marvels such as Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth and the gorgeous Tyrrell’s Winemaker's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 2010 (from the Tindall stand). Each is the Signature Wine of the respective vineyards, according to James Halliday in his Wine Atlas.

With Richard Magnier (@motleycru) in the RHA

The Hunter Valley is well known for Semillon, a grape that I rather like and one that you rarely see on its own in Europe. But this 2010 by Tyrrell’s is a gem, no oak, great fruit and terrific acidity.

No shortage of Riesling here and the first to impress was the super Hardy’s HRB 2014 with its great balance of fruit and acidity. Clare Valley produces some terrific Rieslings and we got a whiff of petrol as we sampled Jim Barry’s The Lodge Dry Hill 2014, an excellent wine. And that was matched, maybe even shaded, by Peter Lehmann Wigan Eden Valley 2006, superb flavours and aromas and more of the petrol, again his signature wine according to Halliday.

The Wirra Wirra Lost Watch, at the Tindal’s stand, was one of the driest of the Rieslings and it too had petrol in the aromas; great fruit too with some style, top quality and an all round excellent wine. All the Riesling though would need food methinks.

Table 3 (C&C Gleeson) had an offering from Tasmania and our second sip from the island was the Eddystone Point Gris 2013, a lovely almost creamy wine. On then to Cassidy Wines and our first taste of a Margaret River wine.

Chardonnay “is a headline act for Australia” but having moved away from the “bold full-bodied Chardonnays of the late 20th century, today’s wines are excitingly varied” and Australia now offers “more restrained and balanced examples of this versatile variety.” Don’t think there’s any great news here as this trend has been there with some time but no harm in having it confirmed with some style in Dublin.

The Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay 2014 (24.99), inviting fruity and matching acidity, really well balanced, is one to note. Vasse Felix, by the way, was founded in 1967 and is the first winery to be built in the Margaret River.

And the Chardonnay just got better at Febvre who had a smashing De Bortoli Estate Growth 2013 from the Yarra Valley. So well made, rounded. Close your eyes and you could be sipping in Burgundy. Their 2013 Windy Peak (also from the Yarra) was lively and very drinkable.

Findlaters too had a terrific Chardonnay and the Katnook Estate Founder’s Block, from South Australia Limestone Coast, is also well priced. Really excellent and aren't I glad I bought a bottle of it in Bradley’s just a few days ahead of the tasting. Looking forward to that even more now!

And the good Chardonnays kept coming. The Wolf Blass Gold Label 2013 (Adelaide Hills) is just superb. And we finished on another high, impressed hugely by the 2011 Wirra Wirra 12th Man (also Adelaide Hills) and imported by Tindal.

Saturday, January 30, 2016

It is summer in Sydney. Cherries, pawpaws, mangoes and watermelon render apples, bananas and oranges the most banal-tasting objects to set foot in a human mouth; waves foreclose on children’s sandcastles; shopping-centre Christmas decorations hang tackily over swarthy Santas with heat exhaustion; bushfires rage out of control and everywhere is ash, and a burning red moon of a bushfire hangs over the city, over the ocean, over Aldo ripening like garbage on his dreary rock.

Thursday, January 28, 2016

Pan-fried Brill with potato chips and garden salad. This was one of our main courses,
fresh and gorgeous. It was on the specials board (€16.95)

As many of you know, Quinlans Seafood has landed in Cork, in Princes Street, right in the middle of the city. From what I'd heard, the reaction has been good. Decided it to try it for myself and, yes indeed, it's a thumbs up!

It is quite a large restaurant and the service is excellent. The lady who greeted and seated us knew the menu well and was so helpful. Chips feature here but why not try half salad and half chips, she helpfully pointed out. “That’s a really large starter. Why not share?”

I enjoyed this fried Sea Bass with half and half chips and salad (13.95)

And that was how we began, with a shared starter of Fresh Tempura Battered Prawns Served With Mixed Leaf Salad And Garlic Mayonnaise. They are proud of the batter,’ “a special recipe we have developed to complement our super fresh fish”. And that fish is really really fresh. These prawns though are well worth a try. And, a word of advice, don't bother sharing, keep them all for yourself!

Once you start looking at the main course, you’ll note that it is hard to avoid the Fish and Chips. But why would you? They offer a great variety of fresh local fish dishes on the menu, from native Salmon, Crab, Prawns, Hake, Lemon Sole, Plaice, and Haddock to go with those chips and/or salad. Side dishes too including Fresh Onion Rings, Fresh Garden Salad, Homemade Mushy Peas, Traditional Champ Potato, and Selection Of Market Vegetables.

Superb Prawn Starter €11.95. To share or not to share?

If you skip the Fish and Chips, you’ll still have some tempting options: Fresh Atlantic Prawns In Olive Oil, Chilli and Garlic, Served With Mixed Leaf Salad And Garlic Mayonnaise;

And a visit to the toilets will bring a smile. Did for me in any case when I spotted the first sign at the bottom of the stairs: Buoys and Gills Toilets. There’s a pink mermaid for the gills upstairs while the buoys should open the door with King Neptune in royal blue, of course!

Founded in 1963, Quinlan's have four fresh fish shops in Co. Kerry (Killorglin, Caherciveen, Killarney, Tralee), as well as two other Seafood restaurants/takeaways, in Killarney and Tralee. They also have an online shop where your fish will be delivered by next day delivery.

Should say that Quinlan’s offer the choice of table service or take away. You can order your take away in advance by calling ahead on 021 2418222. Ready to eat Seafood meals alongside a selection of Fresh Shellfish are also available for customers who want to enjoy the freshest of fish at home.

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Château Tour Baladoz, Grand Cru St Emilion 2005, 13.5%, SuperValu

The Bordeaux vintage of 2005 is legendary and this rich, plummy wine is just gorgeous. Merlot is the main grape here with both Cabernets also in the mix, Franc at 20%, Sauvignon at 10%.

Colour is purple and the aromas are concentrated, ripe dark fruits plus fragrant floral notes. Full bodied for sure, sublime soft fruits with great balance, tannins now very soft indeed and this well-rounded rich and splendid wine, provides a beautiful lingering finish. One to take your time with, small sips recommended. The wine itself is Very Highly Recommended.

Regular price is 44.99 but SuperValu had it down to €30.00 in the Christmas wine sale, so watch out for reductions!

Château Magneau Graves 2009, 12.5%

This 2009, another good year, is from the heart of Graves and made following the Terra Vitis guidelines, an approach that “guarantees a quality production method that respects the environment”. Watch out too for their Cuvée Julien, a much awarded white wine vinified exclusively in barrels.

This red has spent 12 months in oak (one third new) and is a blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Colour is lighter than the Baladoz. It has aromas of red fruits (mainly cherries) and on the palate it is sharp with a lively acidity, good balance though and a rather elegant mouthfeel with a good finish. Medium to full bodied, it is not as soft as either of the others but a good wine and Highly Recommended.

Château Peyreblanque Graves 2010, 14%.

Another good one from Graves, this from the 2010 vintage. Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) is the dominant grape here with Merlot (30) playing a supporting role. Time in oak is 10-15 months. Peyreblanque (white rock) was bought in 1990 by the current owners, the Médeville family, who own quite a few chateaux in the area.

This garnet coloured wine has quite intense aromas (dark fruit, spicy notes). It is full bodied, the fruit and oak in smooth tandem, some spice, fine tannins, strikingly well balanced overall and with an excellent finalé. Very Highly Recommended.

The two Graves wine were bought in Podensac in 2014 and cost ten euro each. All gone now! Thankfully though, no shortage of good Bordeaux wine in Ireland.

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

A bold Irish beer? Well, I think this cloudy wheat beer is more about balance than out and out bold! None the worse for that though. And it seems they agree: “Yankee White IPA has all the complex hop flavour of an IPA and is finely balanced with the bright flavour of a wheat beer.” A gorgeous balance indeed, a fine beer and Very Highly Recommended.

Rascal’s Big Hop Red, 5%

Lively, piney, zesty, they say. And so it is. It is also majorly hoppy for a red ale but again the balance is good as is the final result. That extra hop kick comes because the ale has been dry hopped and that has added zesty flavour as well as the piney aroma. Attractive in all aspects, this award winner is Very Highly Recommended.

Rascal’s Ginger Porter, 4.8%

The first thing you notice here is the can itself. It is not glossy like the others but has a kind of matte finish which gives you a good grip! This is a smooth dark ale and a pleasant one. They rate it as medium bodied. It has a pleasant caramel-bar flavour on the palate and in the finish. Not as creamy as a good stout but well worth a try and Highly Recommended.

Speaking of stout, just sipping away from a bottle of Lynch's Stout as I finish this. Quite like this one and quite proud of it too as it's made a few hundred yards away from me by the lads in the Cotton Ball Brewing Company and is of course available in the bar of the Cotton Ball itself on draught. Their Kerry Lane Pale ale was a gold medal winner in Blas last October.

I got my three Rascal's in Bradley’s (North Main Street, Cork). For other stockists around the country, please check here.

Monday, January 25, 2016

Sonny, described as the Merchant of Broth, has recently taken a stall at Mahon Point Farmers Market and here last Thursday, I found my Taste of the Week.

It is Sonny’s Chicken Broth and a pot of it, enough for two, will cost you a fiver. It is a Vietnamese broth and the proper title is Phỏ Gà. It is made from Tom Clancy’s free range chicken and enhanced with star anise, cinnamon, black cardamom, lime leaf, charred onion and ginger. Tom also has a stall in Mahon.

The aromatic broth is refreshing and delicious, packed with flavours. And it may even be good for you - not that they were saying so at the market stall. According to the Mayo Clinic, chicken soup is a cold remedy used in many cultures; taking in warm liquids, such as chicken soup, tea, or warm apple juice, might be soothing and might ease congestion by increasing mucus flow. You can also read good things about it in this New York Times article.

The Munster Wine & Dine Circle will be launched next week (3rd February, 7.00pm) in Jacques in Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork. And it's going to be a spectacular launch, featuring the the wonderful Ummera Smokehouse from Timoleague and Stonewell Cider from Nohoval. Jacques have devised a brilliant menu using the Ummera products.

MWDC Secretary Beverley Mathews is looking forward to the evening: “We are delighted that Anthony Creswell of Ummera will join us to give a talk on his incredible range of smoked products from the only traditional smokehouse in Ireland smoking both fish and meat. Anthony will be joined by Nohoval-based Stonewell Cider on the evening for a tasting of their products - these delicious ciders pair perfectly with Ummera's products.”

"You don't have to be a member to attend the launch. But we do ask you to consider joining. This newly formed group is open to all to join, including existing members of the the Munster Branch of the International Wine & Food Society."*

"As a result of the change, membership subs will be greatly reduced (see below) and our aim is to organise as many events, if not more, as we did under the IWFS umbrella, ranging from visits to producers, tastings, dinners, day-trips and much more. The committee already has a number of exciting events pencilled into the calendar for 2016."

Did someone say say cheese? Mozzarella maybe!
One of the Macroom buffalo

Events last year ranged from an evening visit to Frank Hederman’s, lunch and orchard tour at Longueville House, an Italian evening in The Farmgate, to a day trip to West Waterford (that included a visit to a cheese producer and a brewery, a gin tasting and a gorgeous meal at The Tannery).

Next week’s event is open to anyone who is interested in becoming a member of The Munster Wine & Dine Circle. The evening (7pm start) will feature fun and an informal tapas-style meal during which you'll have the opportunity to meet other members and we will share the programme for the year with you. Tickets for the event cost €25pp.

If you'd like to attend next Wednesday, please RSVP to iwfsmunster@gmail.com by Monday 1st February. Please pass this info on to anyone else you think would be interested in attending.

The Annual Membership Subs for The Munster Wine & Dine Circle are as follows:

Joint Membership €50

Single Membership €30

Longueville House visit was a 2015 highlight.

We will be sending out application forms shortly, but in the meantime, we would like to get an idea of membership numbers, so if you'd like to join The Munster Wine & Dine Circle for 2016, can you send an email expressing your interest iwfsmunster@gmail.com .

We hope to see you next Wednesday week in Jacques!

We wish to advise all our members that as of January 2016, the Munster Branch of the International Wine & Food Society has been replaced by a newly formed local circle which is separate from the IWFS. Memberships for the IWFS were due for renewal this month; however, due to high membership subs and a very unfavourable exchange rate with sterling which meant fees to remain part of the international organisation increased again this year, a decision was made to form a new locally-run society, which will carry out the same function as before (only without the international status).

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Relax at the Club Brasserie, one of Cork's most gorgeous dining venues. Many of us want to be “good” in January and Beth will help you there. Have you seen her inviting display of salads?

But, if you want to be bold, with a glass of wine or two, well she’ll help you there too, all the way to a delicious dessert. And to be serious for a moment, there is a major welcome here for coeliacs as 95% of the new menu is gluten free!

In any event, you’ll get a warm welcome from Beth and her staff. Smiles and chat all the way to the bar if you enjoy a pre-meal drink or to your table if you want to get started there. Facilities, comfort and service are all excellent here and so too is the food.

Chicken

We had lunch there at the weekend and it was superb. My main course came from the Specials Board: Organic Salmon Potato Cakes with a spinach butter sauce (€10.50). The cakes were so well cooked, beautifully crisp on the outside and a well judged mix of potato and flavoursome salmon inside, all with a lovely sauce and salad.

Roasted marinated chicken breast with Rosemary and garlic rustic potatoes, Romesco sauce, Saffron Aioli and mixed leaves (€12.00) as CL’s pick. Again, the chicken was perfectly cooked and the flavours were magic. Even the potatoes were a delight.

Perfect!

As you can see, we skipped the salads but that was just because we wanted something cooked on the day. Another day, we’d be delighted to dip into a selection that includes: Rainbow Rice, Potato Salad, Superfood Salad, Peppery Chickpea Salad, Roasted Broccoli and Feta Salad, and Asian Salad. You can have a mix of two or three.

And if time, or cash, is scarce on the day, you can still have nice lunch here. Eight euro will get you half a sandwich and soup, and for ten you'll get the full sandwich and soup. The sandwiches themselves cost €7.50 and options are: Pastrami; Honey Glazed Ham; Organic Seared Salmon; and Bang Bang Chargrilled Chicken. We had started with the soup, a lovely warming bowl of Leek and Potato.

Some of the salads.

And were we bold? Well, a little! It takes two to tango and dessert was shared. It was a beauty: Honey Parfait with a delicious drizzle and a scattering of pomegranate and pistachio nuts.

On the way out I had a quick look at the new dinner menus. Lots of temptation there also. No shortage of starters, including: Spiced Potato Fritters; Spiced West Cork Crab Spring Rolls; Sizzling Prawns and more. My pick might be the Warm Salad of Roasted Pear, Crispy Pancetta and Cashel Blue cheese, with walnuts, honey and mustard dressing.

Lots of local ingredients are used here and the mains selection illustrates that aspect: East Cork Lamb; O’Connell’s Fillet Steak; and then there’s the Tempura of Cod with a Yuzu Mayonnaise. Think I'd be looking seriously at the other fish dish here, the Baked Hake with gremolata crust, piperade, tomatoes, black olives, cream and Parmesan cheese. Oh yes and a glass or two of wine! Even in January.

Friday, January 22, 2016

They were sitting at the Bar Gaucho, Gerald, Sara, Ernest and Hadley and Pauline. Ernest, Gerald noticed, seemed to know everyone in Pamplona, even the pilgrims and the peasants who’d traveled to the festival. He ordered them pintxos from inside and small plates kept arriving; a dinner of deliciously oil anchovies, cured ham, tortilla de patatas, and stuffed peppers, all atop slices of crusty bread and speared with a toothpick.

They were drinking a young white wine, also chosen by Ernest, who seemed to be consuming most of it.

Thursday, January 21, 2016

L’Atitude’s CineCafé started its 2016 run with the enthralling Japanese film Jiro Dreams of Sushi (2011), the story of an 85 year old chef who runs a 10 seat three star Michelin sushi restaurant in a Tokyo subway station. Not alone do L’Atitude entertain you, they also feed you and, for this occasion, local Japanese chef Takashi Miyazaki was on hand to do matching food, a small plate of big delights.

And that wasn't the end of it - remember all this for 15 euro. We had an opening wee glass of an Italian natural wine from Piemonte, a drop of Saké at halftime and a drop of Shōchū, a distilled version, for the road. Quite a night and the next CineCafé event, a sherry based one, is due on the third Wednesday of February. The upstairs room, decorated on this occasion with origami by Celine, is ideal for these events.

The film's blurb says: At the heart of this story is Jiro's relationship with his eldest son Yoshikazu, the worthy heir to Jiro's legacy, who is unable to live up to his full potential in his father's shadow. We didn't really see that much tension between the two, on the contrary.

Sushi lovers from around the globe make repeated pilgrimage, calling months in advance and shelling out top dollar for a coveted seat at Jiro's sushi bar. But often your 21 course (bite!) meal is over in 15 minutes. Jiro puts your piece on your slate and you eat it immediately!

Not so quick though if you’re an apprentice here. Your training could take ten years! Then, one day, you are told you've made it. Not all hopefuls last the pace - some pack it on after one day.

One of the jobs for the newcomers is to massage the Octopus. In the early days, this was a 30 minute stint but Jiro has increased it to 45.He is always trying to improve his sushi, thus the long massage. And a tip for Irish sushi imitators. Serve your rice at room temperature, not cold!

He is the undoubted master in Japan and son Yoshikazu buys the best fish available in the market. That market is huge, the tuna lined up like battalions. And you wonder how long more that particular fish will last if so many are needed every single morning for this part of the city alone. Yoshikazu is also anxious about the future supply.

For all his fame and his insistence that a good palate is essential to being a chef, Jiro is a humble man, humble enough to acknowledge that the best palate he has come across belongs to the famous French chef Joël Robuchon.

I won’t tell you too much about it as the film is easily found on the internet and this is one link where you can see it in its entirety.

Miyazaki, who has been getting great praise for his little restaurant/takeaway of the same name, was introduced at the start and his plateful came during the interval. He explained that, since we were in a wine bar, he used red wine with the duck and it was delicious. So too was the prawn - “the head is the best part” - and the salmon sushi and the sea bass sushi were also delightful.

You can see Takashi in action in his kitchen in Miyazaki which is on Evergreen Street, at its junction with Barrack Street. You can also have his food at home, thanks to Deliveroo, but it's great to get in there and get one of the six or seven high stools! I’ve been there a few times and my first vist is recalled here.

Just like Takashi, I too succumbed to being in a wine bar and sampled a few from L’Atitude's amazing list, dozens of terrific wines available in many options, from a small tasting glass to the full bottle.

I started with the Forrest Pinot Noir (Marlborough, New Zealand), elegant and altogether excellent, €5.70 for a 125ml glass. My companions were enjoying the Palacio de Bornos Verdejo (Rueda, Spain) and I was allowed a few sips of this and found it smooth and fresh with loads of fruit.

And we finished the night drinking a lovely Madregale bianco, a blend of 60% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and 40% Chardonnay (from Abruzzo), simple and refreshing but with inviting aromas and no shortage of equally pleasing fruit flavors (4.20 a glass). And the good news is that they also do a red, both available here at L’Atitude. Importer Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau (he also enjoyed the evening) tells me that they are becoming quite popular as house wines. Not surprised.

There’s a lot going on in L’Atitude: wine courses, tastings, films, music and wine and food of course. Check it all out hereor just call in to Number 1, Union Quay, Cork, across the road from the City Hall, across the river from the Clarion Hotel.

“The Los Cardos wines are readily available and are among the world’s great values.” So says the recently published Wines of South America. Not that readily available around here but did find this one in the city centre Tesco a few weeks before Christmas and alongside it was the Block 18 which is made by Cono Sur winemaker Adolfo Hurtado who, coincidentally, was hosting a wine tasting in the Opera House at the time. “That will be good,” he told me. And he was right, as he usually is! The prices at the time of purchase were €18.00 for the Doña Paula and €20 for the Block 18 (a Tesco Finest).

Cabernet Sauvignon makes wine that can age for decades. The two below are very young but don’t worry. “South American Cabernets...are bursting with flavour at only a couple of years old.” declares Grapes and Wines. I think this pair confirm that.

Los Cardos means thistles, “a sign of good terroir” according to the bottle. The vineyards, by the way, are at about 1050 metres up. Doña Paula is the Argentinian arm of the Chilean company Santa Rita. Malbec is their signature wine but they are also well respected for their Cabernet Sauvignon and more as you can see from the Wines of South America endorsement.

Despite the large size of the company, they make quite a lot of wine, including this one, from estate grown fruit. Colour is deep ruby and the aromas are quite expressive, featuring mainly dark fruit including typical blackcurrant scents. Quite an intense attack from this one, smooth fruit, spice and fine tannins and a long finish and Highly Recommended.

This is also a dark ruby and the aromas are a shade more intense with dark berries and plums to the fore. It is smoother and rounder and more complete on the palate, more full bodied than the Doña Paula and the long lingering finish too is superior. Twelve months in French oak has had the desired effect in terms of complexity and smoothness. Very Highly Recommended.

The El Recurso Estate has vineyards divided into blocks and the grapes for this wine, carefully selected by Adolfo, come from number 18, selected for its privileged location in the upper north east Maipo Valley. The rocky, alluvial soil here contributes to the impressive colour and marked intensity. Great with grilled, roasted or barbecued meat.