Villager/Quest Knock Sensor

Hello guys... I have a 99 Mercury Villager, and I read hundreds of posts about the knock sensor codes, but still could not get an answer to my question. Basically, my check engine light is on and I am getting error codes for a bad knock sebsor. The van is fine when its started, but within minutes you can feel intermittent puffs of exhaust at the tail pipe. I verified that all the spark plugs and injectors are good. The Hayes manual says that you can check the knock sensor by finding the KS sub-harness next to the intake manifold, but the manual only shows diagrams of the KS harness for models up to 1998. When I looked next to the manifold, there is a rectangular harness with several (about 40) wires going in one side and out the other. I am not sure if I am supposed to test the KS using the white white wire in that harness. Also, would I pierce the back end of the harness with a multipeter probe, or undo the harness, and connect to one of the ends?

My '99 Quest service manual shows that it's a white wire going into terminal #64. It should read 2.5V DC at idle speed. A low or high voltage from the KC will be sent to the ECM and the book says to check either the harness connectors (for open or shorted circuit) or the knock sensor itself.

There's another test about disconnecting the EMC harness connector, finding terminal 64 and checking the resistance between it and ground, and look for a 500-620 KΩ on your ohmmeter.

I'll see if I can find my scanner and post the manual pages on my CarSpace page.

I have a 1999 Villager w/200k miles. A great vehicle other than starting to loose power going up hills. I just changed fuel filters seems to help some. When accelerating slowly from a stop the van tends to lurch. I was told to check the catalytic converter. There appears to be the usual amount of exhaust. Any Suggestions?

1999 villager estate w/ 75K miles. recent major svc incl fuel filter, belts, battery, and air filters.Our check engine light is on. It came on intermittantly then stayed on. Opened gas cap and it went gurgle gurgle gurgle and the light went out. It came back on yesterday (all the same tank of gas) and thelocal service station checked the codes this am.

Wow, you could have been reading my mind with your question. I have done EXACTLY the same things you have done with my 99 Nissan Quest (they are the same vechicle).Our problems started when we had the engine changed out after the timing belt broke and trashed the original.I bought an OBD II computer to read the error codes and got knock sensor P0325 which will NOT trip the check engine light, and the occasional cylinder misfire P0360 which will.I looked at the manual to see how to change out the sensor, and found that it is a joke. You have to basicly take apart the top of your engine. To have a shop do it is tremendously expensive due to the man hours involved....Still..I would do it if I knew it would solve the problem. My understanding is that it probably won"t. Knock sensors themselves are very simple devices, basicly a microphone that hears the sounds of detonation, and then sends a small voltage to the ECM and retards the timing...Many things can 'set off' the knock sensor, and by the number of posts on this subject it is likely that we all have good sensors, and bad whatevers...I went to 4door.com and paid an expert 20 dollars for the information that some kind soul posted here by scanning the Manual...Thanks for that.I am going to trouble shoot the sensor circuit and see if the resistance and voltages are OK. I will tell you how this comes out.I will NOT replace the sensor, due to the high cost, until I know for sure that it is bad. As I have said, I suspect it is something else.

So, i went to get the van after deciding that the local shop was in over its head and the light is out and the van drives fine. Ive got to make a trip to the airport this eveso i'll burn up some gas and see what happens.(and as an aside, the local service station crew charges us $73 for 'diagnostics and resetting codes)

From all the advise I have gotten, after extensive research, I have decided that it's a better idea not to change the knock sensor. Along with the 500+ cost, you could have problems later on such as coolant leaks and overall engine issues since it is a pretty major surgery to the engine.

Instead switch to premium gas, and have the codes erased. Also , make sure that all your injectors and plugs are good. You may just have a misfire due to a bad injector.

Since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to help the engine deal with low octane gas causing premature detonation, you may be able to get around the issue by using premium gas.

hope this helps...

And thanks to all of you...I didn't know any of this stuff a few weeks ago.

I have a 1995 Villager. My radiator fan burned up causing some of the wires to melt. A new (after market) fan has been installed but since the repair, none of my power windows work. The work was done by a friend and we're both baffled.There was a previous post about this exact problem and he never received a response. I'm a rural mail carrier and I have to have working windows. Any help would be greatly appreciated! :lemon:

#2069 of 2519 95 quest. Radiator fan and power windows stopped working by meshhomelife Sep 22, 2005 (7:26 pm) Bookmark | E-mail Msg The radiator fan blew a fuse and melted through the lead wires. When I stopped the car because it was getting hot, I couldnt roll up the windows. I replaced the fuse for the power windows but they still wont roll up. They dont seem to be connected in any way to the radiator fan motor. Do they possibly share a ground wire? The fan motor is shot. It costs 116 dollars from autozone. The dealer wants 340$. Does anyone think that these two problems are connected? The fuse for the windows did not blow, so i doubt that it has anything to do with the motor. The passenger side and driver side wont roll up. Does anyone know anything about this? The radiator fan looks easy, but does anyone know how to fix the windows?

That post doesn't seem to have gotten any answers. You can try searching the posts here by typing words like "radiator fan", "windows", or "fuse" in the search box at the top of the group here: NIssan Quest.

If you don't see a discussion here that fits your question, feel free to start a new discussion by clicking the "Add a Discussion" link in the group here: NIssan Quest

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We had a similar issue. Local shop wanted $700 to replace the knock sensor. I said no. Meanwhile, the check engine light came and went (mostly my blushing bride drives this car). I got behind the wheel the other day and it felt and sounded like it was not firing on all cylinders.I checked the leads coming off the distributor and some of them were decidedly loose. They are a circular cylinder receptacle with a slightly smaller cylinder for the plug. I spread the plug a tiny bit with needle nose pliers and the connection became better and the check engine light went out and the engine seems to be firing on all cylinders. $700 indeed!Happy Holidays

I've spent some money trying to fix an odd problem with our Villager. We're not sure if the problem is fixed, simply because the problem doesn't seem to make sense to any of the mechanics who have worked on the car. I'm hoping someone here can shed some wisdom.

Here's the situation: Family road trip along I-70. I'm getting warm and notice that the blower fan is not working. Naively, I think to myself that "it's probably a fuse; I'll check when we stop for gas." About 10 miles further down the road, I hear a "clunk" as if the cruise control had suddenly disengaged and the car starts to slow down.

I press the gas pedal with the intention of getting back up to highway speed, but I get no response from the gas pedal. I do *not* get the high pitch whine of an engine revving in neutral. It simply does not respond.

The car continues to slow down, but the needle on the speedometer slowly rises (70 mph is about 1 o'clock on the speedometer -- the needle slowly "fell" to the maximum speed, at about the 5 o'clock position on the dial).

I gradually coast to a stop and shut everything down. After muttering a few words and eye balling the distance to the closest exit, I decide to try to start it up again.

It starts like a charm; and, everything works. The blower fan is blowing. The car responds to the gas pedal and moves forward.

I then drove the vehicle to the next town (about 45 miles) and consulted with a couple of mechanics. After carefully explaining to me that we were chasing a ghost, they recommended that we replace the speed sensor.

We did replace the speed sensor. And at this point, we've driven the car another 1000 miles or so without incident.

But I no longer have confidence in the car. I'm not sure that we really fixed the problem. What do you all think?

Hello. I have a 99 Nissan Quest with a few issues. The speedo use to bounce all over the place and now it is not working (along with odometer and cruise control). The check engine light is on and the obdII codes come up as speed sensor and knock sensor. As well the o/d light flashes at start up for a few seconds. I have seen many others with the same problem on this and other forums, however I have not come across what the problem is, or the solution. Just wondering if anyone has come across this as well. Thanks

I have issue with my engine. two codes came out P1447 and P0325. I quess the knock sensor isn't the problem, because it detects that there is an engine issue. When i drive the car on cruise controle the would pull back and surge forward. Feels really weird. Cannot figure out what is going on. And this last week i noticed that when the engine is working on parking it goes from 1000-1500-2000 rpm without me doing anything like pressing the gas pedal. Can you help me figure this out.

I am dealing with the same issue on a 1994 villager. The speed sensor is bad, but mine is seized in the casing. I hope you don't have this problem! I am really struggling to get it out. I am looking for advise on this also. I have been fighting it for 5 hours and making no progress.

I have noticed several peoples post on this now and I was wondering if any one actually has tried to replace there knock sensor. The reason I am asking, after looking at my engine, and the Hanes manual, and the images that have been posted on Steves carspace page, I think that it can easily be replaced with out pulling the intake manifolds (the main cost in the replacement)

If I am looking at all of the photos correctly, this sensor is located between the top 3 spark plugs, and the lower 3 spark plugs. I am not sure if there was a change in the model just before the 1999 model or not, thus causing the manuals to be incorrect on what is req'd to change it out.

Also I have found a web site that does sell the knock sensor, but it is showing 2 different ones, the first matches the one in Steves post, the other one matches the one that I think I am seeing in my van.

We have a 1995 Villager and are having some of the same problems. Paid 60 to have the codes read and the said O2 Sencor and Knock sencor. We replaced them as well as the fuel pump,fuel filter, Plugs, plug wires, dist. Cap and we still have the same problem loss of power going up hill, and it boggs down when you first start off. the computer only reads o2 and knock sencor problems. Please help I am running out of money and no one knows what to do? :sick:

Hi you may wanna check the ground wire to the onboard computer. I had this same problem with my 98 villager with 269000 kms. Iv paid to have changed cap/rotor, plugs/wires, coil, fuel filter catalitic convertor , still nothing worked. Took it to the ford dealer who changed the o2 sensor, still nothing, then a knock sensor, still nothing, then they got me a rental while they called the ford hotline, they found a loose ground wire on the computer, works great now.. Simptoms were ran good while cold, once it warmed up the engine sputtered/misfired and the rpm gauge would dance no power going uphill, terrible engine performance, hope this helps.

Hi... I posted this under electrical, but I was looking under this thread and noticed others with speedo, etc. problems, so I decided to copy it to here.

Hello. My problem/question is.... after I drive for a few miles, my speedometer, which is digital, registers the correct mph and then drops and jumps around to 0, 4, 0, 1, 3, etc. and the check engine light goes on and off intermittently.

I haven't checked to see if the cruise goes out yet.

There's a gas mileage indicator on the left side that will show, mpg, average mpg, miles left in tank, temperature, etc. and that will then read 7.7 mpg.... 0 mpg. Anyhow, the numbers go all haywire. The outside temp is okay.

When I turn the vehicle off, start it up again, it's okay and registers correctly for a few miles and the indicator on the left shows the numbers correctly and is racking up the average mpg. Then it wacks out again.

After I turn it off and put the key in the accessory position, nothing lights up.

Is this all electrical, or can it be from a bad tranny sensor?

This all happened when I left it at a Ford dealers on consignment. AND OF COURSE they are not responsible. I picked it up, started to drive it home, and the above happened.

I have a '99 Quest which is supposed to be a twin of yours. 105,000 miles is the recommended interval for my Quest (link). Ford says 100,000, for your Villager. Everything I've read around here says it's a non-interference engine on this era Villager/Quest so I haven't changed mine yet at 119,000 miles.

I have a 1997 Villager with 130K on it. The van has been running fine until two days ago. I went out to start it and it spits, sputters, backfires and dies.

Let me explain more. I turn the ignition key on and can here the fuel pump run for around 5 seconds (normal). I start the engine and it idles perfectly for about 5 to 8 seconds. It then starts to die off. Pressing the gas pedal only causes it to rev slightly and then it starts to spit and sputter and backfire and dies. If I start it and hold the gas pedal down it will rev up and then the rpms just drop off no matter how far I hold the pedal down.

My brother-in-law-to-be came over and we pulled the knock sensor code by way of the flashing check engine code. (The check engine light never came on before this happened) After getting a Haynes book and following the testing procedure of tapping on the manifold and testing voltage change, it seems to be working but I cannot get and Ohm reading on it???? :mad:

I have replaced the spark plug, distrib cap and rotor to no avail. Fuel pump replaced less than a year ago. :confuse: I also checked the Power Transistor (as the Haynes Book calls it)following the diagrams they provided. I calls for continuity between terminal A and B and no continuity between A and C. Well, I get no continuity between A and B or A and C but I get continuity between A and C. :P

I hope this is not a boring read but I want to give as much information as I know. :blush:

D geese, Did you ever figure this one out. I have a 95 murcury villager with a similar problem.The van runs great for 15-20 minutes, then when it is warm has no power, barely runs.....The problem started after I needed to jupstart the van, and then replace the battery. I have verified the followingFUel pump and delivery is good. Checked the Spark at each plug,,,, all good, even when its running bad.( Still can be a timing problem.)Eliminated the catalytic converter, Thought the TPS was faulting took it off measured all of that, all checks ok, but on the van the voltage measurements don't match the Haynes book. So this might get replaced. and I am measuring the Power Transistor. I get the opposite results of what the Hayes manual says too. Positive terminal of Ohm meter to A and negative terminal of meter to Pin B I get an open circuit. Attach the negative probe to to teminal A and the positive terminal to C and I get a reading....Reverse the leads on last test and I do not get a reading, So i think there is some type of diode, that is in there that makes a difference in what terminal you probe with your meter neg or pos.

Since my measurements did not match the Hayes book, I was pretty sure that this power transitor was failing. So I plan on getting a new one. But when I see that you question the Haynes book. I wonder if it is even bad.I guess when I get it I will carefully measure the new one and compare it to the old..... The Hayes book might not be correct??I saw another dicussion around grounding of the PCM....May try that this weekend.

Hi Graham666. Let me try to help you out. I have a 98 mer villager. I have spent thousands trying to fix this very same problem. Have a reputable mechanic or friend with automitive skills pull out your distuber. You will probably find.... Debri build up on your photo eye sensor on your distibutor. Just clean it up well and re-insert. And give it a good drive and see if that helps. Also remove your battey and replace your negative battey cable as it sits on the cable underneath and corossion builds up on it giving your cable "High Resistance". Hope this helps. E

EThanks for the response, I think this is my last effort to fix this problem. I do most of my own mechanical work and was not afraid to look into the insides of this distributor, I may not have dug deep enough, because the insides of what I saw were very clean, I got as deep as seeing the timing wheel with the 360 slots in it and wiped it with a tissue. a very small amount of black came off but not a lot of stuff. the screws on the sensor looked like they were filled in with epoxy, so I left them alone. . As I mentioned in my previous note. There are no codes being stored in the computer. I suspected the Ignition module because my resistance measurements did not match the Haynes book reference. The book is wrong.or I am interpreting it incorrectly. I have all of the measurements written down from the new module if anyone needs a reference.. where they mention there should be open circuit, it is not and where you should have conductivity, it is open... So I went out and bought a new ignition module....Before I put it in I did the same exact resistance measurement on the new module. The new module measured very close to the old one, I put it in anyway and restarted the van...It runs great until the engine compartment reaches operating temperature. I had a small can of freeze spray and began to spray individual modules to try to isolate this problem. Well I ran out of spray. So I was getting pretty frustrated and grabbed the garden hose..Now I do not recommend spraying a hot engine with a garden hose, I did manage to trickle cold water over individual parts. Luckily I started right at the distributor. I already had new wires, rotor and Cap, so I was not to worried about getting water on them. I removed the plastic dust cover from the distributor, While the van was running, trickled cold water, very slowly over the distibutor and kept teting the throttle, When warm it would idle ok but would not run smoothly over 2000 rpm..I cooled the distributor until I could feel that the aluminum base was cold to the touch. When in that state the van runs perfectly. I allowed it to warm up again and verified this at least 6 times. So in a round about way I think I have determined that this distributor needs replacing. I just ordered an brand new one from a company on EBAY for $105, I will repost all of this in another posting if this solves the problem. I am glad others have shared their experiences on these forums. I have learned a lot about this van. My regular mechanic did not have the scan tools and told me he did not want to work on it. I I think if I get this running I have saved a lot of money. If this new distributor solves it I will have less than $150 and about 20-40 hours invested.I will let everyone know how I make out once I get the new part Thanks for your interest.