I don't have the Composer--I have the Muse--but I know that the first time I used it, I was woefully disappointed and thought I'd wasted a lot of money. I certainly don't feel that way any more! It takes practice. If you can afford it, I recommend the book that's sold on the site here (you can also get it for Nook/Kindle for $20.) She has some great tips for achieving that nice sharp sweet spot. The big one I took home is to focus with your subject in the enter of the viewfinder. Then--holding that focus (which I believe is easier with the Composer) shift the subject to where you want it to be (allowing it to drift out of focus); then tilt the lens to bring it back into focus. Once I got that concept, I greatly increased my percentage of usable shots.

Thank You, BFCoughlin. I had called Lensbaby for advice on this also. I was advised to start with the 5.6 disk. I'll also look into the ebook. i think if i put a little tab on the rim of the lens, it may give me a starting point of the same effect and focus spot on the lens. Also when i look through the lens, it looks focused, but when it's on the computer screen it's kinda blurred.
Thanks,
ken

It looks like your issue is coming in where you place the sweet spot. Generally, tilting the lens as far as it will go will give you an image you aren't after. On #1, it needs to move a little down and to the left (centered on the wheel), #2 just a touch down (this one is really close), and #3 up and to the right (centered at the end of the path), and shift the focus a little closer (curved field optics show incorrect focal distance as a ring of sharp focus in the image, rather than the usual blur in the wrong plane)

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"I think a photography class should be a requirement in all educational programs because it makes you see the world rather than just look at it." -Unknown

Thanks registerednerd, I'm just wondering if i can mark a point on the outer rim of the lens and use it as a reference point to go from. Because when i turn the lens a direction and back it seems to be back to the same reference point and maybe I can figure out how much and where to turn to get what I want. Also I agree with the quote you have on the post. Yes, As a an Artist and photographer back in the old days of film and gouache paint for photo retouching, I seen those days of training. These days when you shoot a photo on a DSLR you can see your results and have a second chance at the photo. Back in the days of only film, you had to use the light meter or know your exposure with your "ASA" now "iso". when you shot you either took it to get developed or you head into the darkroom and develop your film then make your prints. Burning and dodging was part of the fun..afterwards it would be retouching with gouache paint to fix the image.It's actually better now because it is more cost effective.

Marcum makes another good point--since you're adjusting the focus by virtue of your eye, you need to make sure that the diopter setting is exact. What worked for me (I found this somewhere else, I wish I could remember where so I could give you an exact reference...) that you should set up your camera on a tripod; then using the Live View setting, magnify the view. Adjust the diopter setting so it is nice and sharp on that Live View mag. Then, when you look through the viewfinder and it looks sharp to you, it should also be sharp when you download it.