Approach

Scramble up the talus below the True West Face and turn right, traversing across the shoulder at the base of the Southwest Face. The climb essentially takes the line one crack left of "The Devils made Me Do It"

Route Description

This route was first climbed by John Walker and Frank Sanders in March of 2004. It involves 3 long pitches. The first pitch is the initial pitch of "The Devils Made Me Do It", which was originally aided by Sue Gas and Frank Sanders in 1988 and subsequently free climbed, with the addition of a few protection bolts, by Andy Petefish that same season. It contains a very long, thin and attractive aid pitch and then free climbs a long pitch to the summit ( that was originally aided by Gas and Sanders). Its a fine route characterized by very solid rock, varied climbing styles and a lot of sunshine, even in the colder months.

Scramble as high as You can and set an initial belay at an obvious, comfortable ledge.

Pitch 1 (5.10d, 100ft) Stem, Face climb and Smear Your way up this shallow corner. The crux is near the top. Protection is good with small nuts and several bolts. The belay is at a small ledge from a two Big Bolt Anchor.

Pitch 2 (A3-, 185 ft) Move left one crack (good hook moves) and aid upwards on rurps, blades and then more reasonable pieces. Belay is just below the big roof from a 3 Bolt Anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, 160 ft.) Free climb out of the hanging belay and turn the roof on its left side (5.10b).Continue up until the crack quality dwindles and calls for a leftward traverse. This is a Happy Crack that goes about 5.9 and is a Joy to climb. This pitch lands You on the Tower Top !!

Essential Gear

The first pitch requires many small nuts, some small cams and even some Lowe cams can be useful. The second pitch requires a hook or two, some RURPS, two dozen Blades with tie-offs and some more reasonable pieces. The last pitch requires a Standard Rack with some Big (#4-5 cam) Pieces.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

"Blessed Are Those Who Live Out Their Dreams !!"
--The Last Pioneer Woman