Situated neatly in a crescent-shaped gulf facing the Tyrrhenian Sea, Castellammare del Golfo lies midway between bustling Palermo and the tranquil salt fields of Trapani. This scenic waterfront town has embraced her natural harbor in a motherly hug for over two thousand years, as a succession of cultures have held rule. Aptly named for its original purpose – Sea Fortress of the Gulf – Castellammare del Golfo’s stout medieval fortress has been on watch, holding off ne’re-do-wells for some 1,500 years. The life blood of the town, fishing, remains a hearty industry to this day, providing bounty from the sea.

Castellammare del Golfo: the charm and appeal of old Sicily seems to remain entrenched in this old town. (Dreamstime)

North-western Sicily’s red-dirt rugged mountains seem to give up the fight as they soften and relax along the coast, easing into the still-steep by gentler paths, streets, and stairways that spill out onto the crescent sand beach of Castellammare del Golfo and her Cala Marina. The stunning sandy break offers a calming transition into the clear azure waters of the Gulf of Castellammare, while an inviting array of waterside restaurants and bars offer a fine place to park oneself and admire it all.

Within a shell’s throw from the sandy shore, six or so rows of perfectly aligned docks provide tie-offs for marine craft of varying sorts: traditional blue and white fishing boats, sailboats, small ferries, guide boats, skiffs, and kayaks. The overhead sun seems to look down like a stern capo (boss) directing the goings-on as the vessels go about their individual purposes, each getting busy early on and returning to harbor in time for the ritual passeggiata.

The stunning sandy break offers a calming transition into the clear azure waters of the Gulf of Castellammare. (Dreamstime)

Wrapped belt-like around the harbor, a stone walkway provides the perfect place for the evening promenade of old and young — some on foot, some on bike, some daring not to move at all, preferring chat and cin-cins. Alluring displays sit outside every café, showcasing the day’s catch of fish and sea life in hopes you’ll choose this or that for the evening meal.

Mounds of nylon fishing nets sit stacked along the promenade looking like oddly colored haystacks, some harassed by busy fishermen intent on mending while a hopeful cat or two prowls nearby. At the pinnacle of the walkway where the bulkhead meets the sea, Castellammare’s imposing castello rises. Built upon castle ruins by the Arabs and further expanded when under Norman rule, the fortified structure is less than elegant, yet has done its duty since the 800’s. With no modern worries of hostile takeovers, the castle now serves as a mildly interesting museum offering a peek into the old ways of fishing and early life in the region. The towering outline of the castello frames the town well... and makes quite an impressive backdrop for young lovers seeking solitude along the seawall.

The life blood of the town, fishing, remains a hearty industry to this day, providing bounty from the sea. (Dreamstime)

Castellammare is also home to several noteworthy churches worth a visit for their baroque style and artistic works. In general, these are walkable from the harbor and offer a chance to intermingle in local neighborhoods and piazze as you dodge the boys playing street calcio and teenage daredevils on Vespas.

Oh, the amenities! One would think this charming coastal haven was akin to Liguria’s Cinque Terre — overrun with tourists and on the well-beaten path. Surprisingly, it’s not. Sure, Castellammare del Golfo has a healthy share of summer guests seeking the clear blue seas of the northern coast, but the aura here is unique – and somewhat overlooked by the masses.

The charm and appeal of old Sicily seems to remain entrenched in this small town; traditional ways and the work-at-hand seem to supersede a need for being on a Top Ten Destination list, however good or bad that might be.

Along with the obvious pleasures of beautiful beaches and a picturesque marina, not to mention amazingly fresh seafood and fine local wines at every turn, a week in Castellammare can also offer an enticing variety of memory-making excursions, all near-enough-by and accessible by car or public transportation.

A side trip to Segesta, the inland ancient city that most probably established Castellammare as a port, offers an amazing peek at life around 500 BC. The incredibly intact, albeit never completed, Doric-style temple stands gigantic and stoic, impressing its admirers as it’s done for over 2,500 years. And nearby, gracing the crest of Mt. Barbosa, sits the spectacular Greek amphitheater, posed like the diva she is atop grassy fields looking far down upon a sapphire sea. The theatre is used during the summer for plays and events; no need for special sound equipment – the acoustics are stunning!

Further west but doable as a day trip lies the irresistible town of Cefalù. A bit crowded and rowdy, the beach front is postcard worthy as bathers and boats and pastel buildings blend to make a memorable picture. The intermingling of heritages here push and pull to grab your attention through architecture, food, and art. Offering a fine cultural experience, the contrast to smaller, slower paced Castellammare is notable, making a late night glass of zibibbo, that aromatic dessert wine beloved in Sicily, sipped on your hotel balcony even sweeter.

And then there’s Erice, a city so beautiful that even the poet Virgil extolled her virtues in the Aeneid, allowing his fabled hero Aeneas to make a stop here. Bring your hiking shoes and take the climb up the legendary mountain of Eryx for a breathtaking view over the port of Trapani. Don’t forget to take a peek at the ruins of the temple built to honor Diana some 1000 years before Christ. If you’d rather not break a sweat, stroll the cobbled streets while sampling the delights of the locally crafted fruit-shaped marzipan or a frosty granita, maybe with some gelato on top!

Much to do, much to see in north-western Sicily – but the lovely prize at the end of the day remains: the return to Castellammare del Golfo. The soft glow of twinkling lights from docked vessels and harbor lights bounce and dance on the water as they welcome you back, almost seeming to ask why you thought you needed to leave, even for a day. And maybe you didn’t – being in the moment of this inviting, peaceful seaside town is living la dolce vita in the best of Sicilian style.