damm I looked at that add 3 times thanks for the link. I wonder what one will give the best accuracy with the surpluss ammo???? or if there is a differance. what are the advantages of a 4 grove over a 2???

damm I looked at that add 3 times thanks for the link. I wonder what one will give the best accuracy with the surpluss ammo???? or if there is a differance. what are the advantages of a 4 grove over a 2???

More grooves.

They said it didn't affect accuracy when they issued them, and it has been observed that they have reduced pressures from causing less bullet deformation.

All of the surplus 7.62x25 that I have measured was 308 area but if you want to try a looser bore there is the vickers 303 barrels omega has new for $50 is not that bad. I have a deep dark desire of making one of them into a semi heavy barrel for 7.62x39 or 54r..... Barrel Parts - Omega Weapons Systems (520) 889-8895

Im going to go with a .308 bore. My reamer has interchangable pilots however so I can do a .310 if I want.

I Just orderd a 1/6 end mill for doing the cuts in the side of the bolt and a 13/32 - .4062 endmill for doing the bolt face. .406 is slightly larger then the polish tantal bolt face I had the the face of the pps-43 was . 402" . I think it will work as the x25 case is .389. I could have possably used a 10mm -.3937 but was afraid it might be to tight. Im planing on being able to do the bolt face and drill the firing pin hole in one set up on the mill. I still havent decided on a extractor type. and to be honest I like the idea of a ejector built into the bolt that way the rail type ejector could be eleminated. If I do a guide rod build the whole lower rail could likely be removed making a bent flat build super easy and also making the ejector placement less critical.

I was also considering useing a thicker lower rail like 1/4" and trying to eleminate the need for a guide rail going all the way to the front trunion. OR posabbly adding a piece directly to the under side up the upper rail some key stock would possably work and then it would be easier to mill in slots in the bolt that were bigger. Ill likely break a 1/6" end mill but not as easy with a 1/4".

a guide rod that held the spring but didnt go clear to the front trunion/RSB would mean there would be nothing directly over the top of the ejection port except the dust cover.

I have a idea of getting rid of the dust cover as well. Im thinking of having the top of the bolt be the cover and cycle with the bolt much like a slide on a 1911 pistol. If I went that route then the charging handel could be eleminated. the need for a way to hold the cover down eleminated. the need for a costly AK style pistol rear trunion would be eleminated as well as the AK spring assembly. a simple block with a hole for a short guide rod that only goes half way through the bolt would be all thats nessacry. field stripping might not be as fast but I can live with that. Im envisiong a bolt that has seratted sides that you pull back. it would not have any handel going out the side to snag on. it would of course have to travel back ward past the end of the reciver when cycling but on a pistol it would not matter as your face will be away from it. this would also leave the ejection port completly unobstucted to aid in clearing jams and hand loading round into the barrel or unloading. the extra mass could be used for adding weight to the bolt as well. it would also allow a lower sight plane. Im envisiong a ver small red dot on the top of the custom front trunion as low to the barrel as possable. If I build it Is got to be useable and be able to hit stuff at 30-50 yrds. I want to be able to one hand this if nessacry.

6 of the 4 groove barrel on the way and a tokerov extrctor to play with. stuff should be here in 7-10 days according to the lady.. Ill post what the barrels are like.

I went with 4 groove as I may try to do some other stuff with them if there OK like
.308x39 ak barrels. I reload so using .308 bullets is not a issue and the surpluse stuff is works althogh Im leary of it. any way Ill have 6 barrels to play with I hope there usable.

Im not much into lead bullets but it is some thing I wold like to try down the road in 7.62x39 for plinkers. maybe I should have gotten one 2 groove. this is getting real expensive this project better work out.

1biggun, here is a picture of a d-max rifle. I know its different than what you're doing, but I thought the picture might be of some use. It uses a pps43 looking bolt that uses a sten type extractor and a regular ak style FCG. One of the hammer sear surfaces has been removed to clear the guide rod. Since you're making a new style bolt (not a previous FA bolt converted to semi) you can have feed lip on it and use a plunger type ejector like on the M1 garand, M1 carbine, M14, M16/ar15 ect. I'm thinking about going with a plunger type ejector on a 17hmr build I'm gathering parts for. I had a like new remington 1903a3 (that I'm still kicking myself for selling) with a two groove barrel and it shot very well.

One of the hammer sear surfaces has been removed to clear the guide rod.

Ive been looking at butting the recoil spring to the side for some time. that will allow for getting the scope or sites down lower. on a rifle that would be nice so the check weld dont have to be so damm High.

I got 4 grove barrels coming depending on how it goes I may try a 2 grove in the future.

with shortening the reciver i hope the be able to have a bit longer barrel I actualy wont be happy if it wont do 1.5" at 50 yards with reloads. with the cheap ammo Ill be happy with 3" groups.

Im looking at what it would take to do PPS 43 mag wells in quanity today. Im thinking a jig sort of like we bend the recivers in with some brake work on the flat first would be doable to make these pretty quick.