Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

So I have Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5D 5 channel amp. Other than my sub running off the sub channel, I have my front components being ran off my two front channels (75w to each) and my rears are vacant as I'm just using my HU to run my rear speakers and plan to keep it that way. The specs for this amp says 250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms. Am I able to do this with the components that I have? If so, how would I wire them? If it can be done then wouldn't that mean I would be getting roughly 125 watts to each component set? That would be nice as that is what the rms is for my components.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

you can do that just fine. Just have ch. 1 and ch.2 ran through with a 2m1f y-splitter and the same for ch.3 and ch.4. Then for the speakers, you will run the wires from the amp where it is labeled for bridged. This will give you 250watts/ch, not 125

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

Originally Posted by dragnix

you can do that just fine. Just have ch. 1 and ch.2 ran through with a 2m1f y-splitter and the same for ch.3 and ch.4. Then for the speakers, you will run the wires from the amp where it is labeled for bridged. This will give you 250watts/ch, not 125

^^^^this ^^^^^ unless your deck has frt rears and sub put ,then just run the other set of rca's.and do what dragnix said

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

My HU does have front, rear, and sub outputs so I could do it without the splitters. Now with doing this and having the 250 watts to each component and being well over the rms rating, will I be okay? Do you think it will be worth it to get the extra power out of the amp or will it not be that noticable? I've only had one other set of components (Boston SC60) in the same car and they only had about 50 watts going to each component set, but they actually sounded better to me than these CDT's do now, so I figured maybe I wasn't giving them the power they needed.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

Originally Posted by rjay

My HU does have front, rear, and sub outputs so I could do it without the splitters. Now with doing this and having the 250 watts to each component and being well over the rms rating, will I be okay? Do you think it will be worth it to get the extra power out of the amp or will it not be that noticable? I've only had one other set of components (Boston SC60) in the same car and they only had about 50 watts going to each component set, but they actually sounded better to me than these CDT's do now, so I figured maybe I wasn't giving them the power they needed.

On music some components can do well above rated. However, you don't need to use all the power just because you have it, keep the gain low and give the components the sufficient amount of power

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

On music some components can do well above rated. However, you don't need to use all the power just because you have it, keep the gain low and give the components the sufficient amount of power

So do you think I would be better off leaving it as is with 75w to each component? I'm just suprised on how much better the Boston's sounded vs these CDT's (to me anyways). I was under the impression that these were supposed to be some baddazz components! So I was thinking they just needed more power or something. I really want to keep everything being ran by a 5 channel amp, thought about getting the Alpine PDX-V9 for the extra power (before I realized the bridging options on the RF amp) but if 75 watts should be doing the trick then I will keep what I got.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

On music some components can do well above rated. However, you don't need to use all the power just because you have it, keep the gain low and give the components the sufficient amount of power

So do you think I would be better off leaving it as is with 75w to each component? I'm just suprised on how much better the Boston's sounded vs these CDT's (to me anyways). I was under the impression that these were supposed to be some baddazz components! So I was thinking they just needed more power or something. I really want to keep everything being ran by a 5 channel amp, thought about getting the Alpine PDX-V9 for the extra power (before I realized the bridging options on the RF amp) but if 75 watts should be doing the trick then I will keep what I got.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

Don't use two sets of RCA's to run one set of components. If the amplifier is bridgeable it will have input management to allow you to use the same left and right RCA to run in bridge mode.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Saying "clipping doesn't kill speakers" is a half-truth at best. Technically no, clipping itself does not hurt the speaker. But in clipping your amp, you can easily create a situation that WILL kill the speaker. Was the squared waveform the DIRECT cause of the failure? No. In the end, the answer is, always has been, and can only be... heat kills speakers. BUT, clipping increases heat generation, sometimes by a drastic amount. So to start a thread simply to state that clipping does not hurt speakers is, again, a half-truth at best.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

Originally Posted by rjay

So do you think I would be better off leaving it as is with 75w to each component? I'm just suprised on how much better the Boston's sounded vs these CDT's (to me anyways). I was under the impression that these were supposed to be some baddazz components! So I was thinking they just needed more power or something. I really want to keep everything being ran by a 5 channel amp, thought about getting the Alpine PDX-V9 for the extra power (before I realized the bridging options on the RF amp) but if 75 watts should be doing the trick then I will keep what I got.

You can put more power to it, I think it can do better like that. Just do it incrementally though, move it up to 100 watts to see how it'll do, then a bit more, keep going until you feel it's enough power n that it won't overdrive the components

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

I guess most amps will have that option. But my jl amp doesn't, in the owners manual it says, if you want to run a pair of speakers bridged you have to use 2 ''y'' splitters.

Okay, but still use only one set of RCA's. Left into a Y splitter for a bridged set of channels and right into a Y splitter for the other set of bridged channels. JL is so 'awesome', I'm surprised they don't have this very simple feature built into the input stage.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Saying "clipping doesn't kill speakers" is a half-truth at best. Technically no, clipping itself does not hurt the speaker. But in clipping your amp, you can easily create a situation that WILL kill the speaker. Was the squared waveform the DIRECT cause of the failure? No. In the end, the answer is, always has been, and can only be... heat kills speakers. BUT, clipping increases heat generation, sometimes by a drastic amount. So to start a thread simply to state that clipping does not hurt speakers is, again, a half-truth at best.

Re: Possibility of bridging amp for front components?

Originally Posted by rjay

So do you think I would be better off leaving it as is with 75w to each component? I'm just suprised on how much better the Boston's sounded vs these CDT's (to me anyways). I was under the impression that these were supposed to be some baddazz components! So I was thinking they just needed more power or something. I really want to keep everything being ran by a 5 channel amp, thought about getting the Alpine PDX-V9 for the extra power (before I realized the bridging options on the RF amp) but if 75 watts should be doing the trick then I will keep what I got.

As with anything INSTALL is key here. Much of CDT speaker line is not optimized for installs in car doors. I have no doubt that their high end stuff is good, but perhaps better suited for the home environment. The boston MAY sound better due to higher QTS etc of the midwoofer. Hard to chime in on this since I didn't see any other specifics other that it sounds better. More power will only help so much, but speakers that are designed for car environment + install can go a long way.