Description

This is a great climb. The crux is at the top through the last three bolts where it gets pretty vertical. This is a great climb for beginners because the first 5 bolts are probably in the 5.6-5.7 range, plus you can skip the last 3 bolts by heading to the right after the 5th bolt and clipping in to the "Beautiful" rap station.

Location

About 15 feet to the right of Lunch rock. You can free solo up the 15 foot face or 4th class around the side to the right.

Seems to me that there really is not much point in doing this route if you bypass the last few bolts - the bottom of the route is not much harder than a 5.2 - if that. Fun climb if you actually use all the bolts.

Long and Safe fun lead. The first five bolts are fairly easy, probably more of 5.7. Getting up to the first bolt is a bit freaky if you just started leading. I advise starting to the left. There is a nice ledge, which allows you to get your right foot at the right end of an inclined slab. There is a nice place for a right foot lock there which gives a lot of support. The handholds after that are good. Once at the 5th bolt, there is a nice earthy wide ledge that allows to take a breather. You can go up via the left, along the crack which makes things easier but requires quite a bit of reach to clip in. Along the middle takes a bit of confidence and is definitely the crux (did it that way on my second lead of this route).

Very fun for those who just started leading and are looking for practice and confidence building.

Climb through the chains and finish with the upper orange block of Skyline Pinnacle. May want a #3 camalot to protect the move getting to the 1st bolt on the block. Because of the blocky nature its easy to bust an ankle. Saw a guy today who hurt his ankle on this climb.

Not a huge fan of Mission Control. I suppose it's good for the budding leader because it eases you in at the bottom and is well protected. But I don't find the climbing to be particularly fun or interesting. The cruxy top ~10 feet is just a matter of figuring out which crappy hand hold you want to use to work your feet up.

A local guy that was guiding a small group of very happy kids, was kind enough to give some beta to a traveling climber and recommended this route as a safe and well protected sport climb. He was right in fact I had a ton of fun solo leading this route. Here are some long arm pics of this fun route.

Looking down from the start.

looking up the route with holds and bolts as far as i could see..

Nearing the top of the route wishing for more.

Thanks for the great recommendation.. Please feel free to look me up if your ever out in my neck of the woods..