Hi guys and gals. New question for all. Can you post a step by step---picture log of how you put your electrical service please. Simple to extravagant will be great. House hold names whenever possible.

Ok here it is. First the disclaimer – By far I am not a professional electrician. I have rudimentary knowledge of electricity and above average wiring skills – enough to get me in trouble sometimes. However I strive to do things right and safety is a must. If electrical wiring is beyond your skill level, get someone who is both knowledgeable and professional! I make no claims to the reliability of the above other than it is my own design. You have been warned.

This is a shot of the electrical box with the cover removed for clarity.

All electrical components and wiring were purchased from Home Depot to facilitate a 120 volt 30 amp hook up (sorry no 12 volt system). I did all the wiring myself (plenty of electrical experience). We carry a small household AC unit, 13” color TV, satellite receiver, microwave and small refrigerator – who said “roughing it” had to be so uncomfortable! I want to be able to hook up our Weekender trailer to a standard 30 amp power outlet – the type commonly found at most campsites. I managed to find all the necessary components at Home Depot. The main box is a GE model, which priced out about 19.99 (without breakers). I choose two 15 and 20 amp standard breakers for the power distribution – also GE. A 20-foot power cable attached to a travel trailer 30-amp male plug supplies the power (Yes - Home depot does carry them – you have to look for the specific model designated for travel trailers or just ask the person who works the electrical isle). The electrical box out of the box (lousy pun) is set up for 220 power distribution – however – I just want 110 only. Therefore I made a bridge to connect the two halves of the power plates to keep the breakers inline. I added the optional grounding strip (needed for ground fault type recepticals). I also plumbed in a light switch / receptacle combo and two additional plug outlets with weatherproof enclosures. Another line is routed to an air conditioner receptacle. I then plug into the receptacles two 15 amp 4 plug extension cord for points of power at either end of the camper.

Here is a picture of the box with attached outlets and switch. It is all contained in one area. (With finish applied) Notice the white plastic strip above the box. it is plastic conduit in which the wire are housed

Here is a shot of one of the two 4 outlet power boxes that powers the refrigerator and microwave

This shot shows the other box behind the TV. This powers the TV and satellite system as well as cell phone chargers. The other line is the coaxil cable for the satellite (later moved to the condiut when wallpaper installed)
Notice the small box all by itself – well that is for the Air conditioner when needed.
The beauty of the system is: when I’m not running the refrigerator/ microwave – I can either shut them off at the power box, unplug them from the receptacles, or throw the breaker. (finshed photos at website)

Last edited by starleen2 on Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

I won't bore you with all the details but this is the best part of my 12 volt wiring. I didn't have to drill holes in my spars so they are very strong & I have been able to add several new 12 volt circuits since my original wiring of the TD. It's very easy to make changes, just remove the ceiling molding by unscrewing the beauty screws. I will do the same on my next build. Danny

"Conditions are never just right. People who delay action until all factors are favorable do nothing". William FeatherDon't accept "It's Good Enough" build to the best of your abilities.Teardroppers Of Oregon & Washington

I don’t have any pictures other than what is in my album. Page 3 has pictures of the electrical panels. The AC panel goes in the curbside front cabinet. It has the AC wires in the floor through a ½” PVC pipe which supplies an outlet in the back of the cabin and one outlet in the galley. The DC panel is mounted above the AC panel. All DC wires will go up the center and across the roof. This includes the wiring for the signal lights (trailer lights). The center ceiling panel will cover the DC wiring. The only wiring across the ceiling will be for the switches for cabin lights and the porch lights. Not sure if this helps you any.
Chuck

I am not an electrician so this is only the way I wired my main service. There might be faster or different orders to do this so pick and choose from the whole site. What you need for your build. I am also posting this as a member and should NOT be considered as advice from the boards administration.

This is an ongoing work so I will edit as I get the pictures in order. If you see something that needs help or have a better picture please PM me and I will be glad to edit.

This needed a ground bar purchased separately, You can attach the ground bar before or after you wire it.

Next take your incoming Romex or stranded wire. 12-2 or 14-2 with ground. That will give you a white (neutral) a bare (ground, might be green also) and a black (hot) wire. Strip back the wire enough to give you about 4-6 inches of separated, but still insulated wires. You will cut off what you don't need and leave some play.

Next knock out the plug where you want your wires to go. Mine is on top. Add a squeeze type Romex connector to the wire and put the wire through the hole.

Wire the ground first. (See copper wire above) Stick it through under the screw and tighten the screw. Then I put the squeeze connector in the hole ( get a couple from an electrician. You will only need 3 to do what I did)

Now, take a piece of black wire a few inches long (what will fit your space) strip about 3/4' off and make a jumper.

Put the jumper from one of the top screws to the other and strip off 1/2" of the insulation from the incoming hot (black wire) and add it to the first screw and tighten down. Tighten down the second screw with the jumper only connected. This makes the second breaker hot.

Take the white (neutral) wire to the top neutral bar, strip it back and screw it down. That is your incoming. On to the outgoing!

This shows the outgoing ground. You will make a similar knock outs for the outgoing wires. I used two. Strip the wires, and add the connectors.

Wire the outgoing bare ground wire the same as the incoming.

Wire the white (neutral) wire to the bottom neutral bar. See above.

Wire the beaker. Do not unscrew this screw..........loosen it only. Strip the black wire and stab in your wire. Tighten the screw. You will do this for both breakers. Adding a bare (ground) a white (neutral) and a black (hot) for each breaker. Remove the white arrow sticky strips if you have them. Push the breaker into the slot and make sure it clicks in. TURN TO OFF and leave it there. Do the same with the second breaker.

Wired out going

Wired load center. Tuck in all your excess sticking out wire.

Remember to turn the switches to OFF AND LEAVE THEM THERE until everything is hooked up.

Simple and compact prewired boat panels for 12v and 120v. Sorry I have no pictures of the wiring running through the spars and in the bulkhead. They come with a few instructions to help through the installation process

First I got a marine panel from Bass Pro Shop. The panel comes pre-wired and I left most of it alone.

Then went to Radio Shack to get something for a grounding block. Got a Barrier strip and a Jumper strip. I had to cut the jumper strip in half.

Off to wire it up. The very first thing I did was get rid of the small "disconnects" for the incoming power and ground. Added 10 awg wire for both. Wired my hot wire (black) to the light fixture and the white ground to the negative terminal block.

Some of this is easier done before the panel is up if you don't have a lot of room. Now I know some don't like wire nuts but I might change the light and want it to come off. I also put wire nuts on the unused wires so they will keep from contact and be there when I need them.

Next is to screw it down and hook it up.

The black wire with the yellow wire nut is 10awg and goes from the negative post on the panel to the negative terminal and the second one goes to the negative post on the battery. The red goes straight to the battery. I will add the battery disconnect as soon as I get some blocking in for it.

The 12 volt reading lights that get a new position as soon as I get to it.

Enjoy wiring your TD. It is a learning experience and you don't need to get fancy.

Okay, from the front of my trailer I have 2 #10 awg wires 1 white and 1 black that come from the battery switch.

Please Note:The wire was Free, and the only choice was White and Black. Normally one should use RED for Positive and Black for Negative For some reason, I used Black as Positive and White for Negative.

I can switch between 12volt Battery Power and a 6amp Power converter that is plugged into 120vac.

Battery Box

Wires under the trailer and up into the cabinets.....

Here I have a Fuse Block and a grounding bar. I wire the Positive to the fuse block and the Negative to the ground bar.I ran a twisted pair cable (2 wires in one). One wire from the ground bar and one wire from the fuse block to a switch and from the switch to a light.

(the wire hanging is for the porch light)

Let me know if I left any thing out.

Mary K
Build PicturesI don't know half of you half as well as I should like; and I like less than half of you half as well as you deserve. Bilbo Baggins