Pastry chef Amanda Rockman leaving Nico Osteria, Chicago

You have less than a month to enjoy Amanda Rockman's fab desserts at Nico Osteria (she's Austin bound).

This news leaves me with a bitter taste. More accurately, the lack of a sweet one.

Amanda Rockman, pastry chef extraordinaire and James Beard Foundation semifinalist, will leave her post at Nico Osteria (1015 N. Rush St., 312-944-7100) at the end of the month.

"I've been in the city for 12 years," Rockman said. "I feel like I'm breaking up with my best friend."

Rockman's tenure in Chicago has included many of the city's finest restaurants. She worked with Gale Gand at Tru, and with Shawn McClain at Spring. She opened L2O with Laurent Gras, then moved on to the Peninsula Hotel before becoming the opening pastry chef at The Bristol, Balena and, finally, Nico Osteria, part of the Donnie Madia/Paul Kahan restaurant group.

Rockman's next destination will be Austin, Texas; the Texas native is returning home to head up the pastry operations at the South Congress Hotel, which will open in the summer. The 82-seat, boutique hotel will be home to two restaurants, including Otoko, a Japanese restaurant by acclaimed, James Beard-winning chef Paul Qui.

"It's a thriving and growing city, very liberal and artsy, beckoning new talent and available for people to branch out and do their own thing," Rockman said of Austin. "I'm not saying I'll be raising the bar, because Austin already is a very serious food city. I'll be able to push my craft forward in a market that is very much growing. But I'll have to earn (the city's) trust, which I hope I did (in Chicago).

"And my mom and grandmother live there, so I'll be able to see them and not be the worst daughter in the world."

Rockman's replacement has yet to be named.

"Whoever gets it," Rockman said, "will be a lucky son of a bitch. This is an incredible team, and has a camaraderie you don't always get. Erling (Wu-Bower) is the most understanding chef.

"As excited as I am to move to a city that doesn't need snow plows, Nico is like my baby; I'm very fond of it. Chicago taught me how to cook, and I hope in my time I've helped further (the city's culinary scene) a bit."