Excerpts from Townsend Whelen's The American
Rifle

I read recently Whelen's 1918 book on rifles, and I enjoyed seeing how
little has changed in this sport in the last 80 odd years.

Three sections caught my attention. The section on the effectiveness on
game of various rifle cartridges is relevent yet today, for the majority of
the hunting bullets sold continue to be jacketed soft point bullets of
cup-and-core construction. These have a gilding metal or a copper case into
which a lead alloy is either pressed or poured, and these first came into
use in Whelen's lifetime. I should note that in the chapter titled
"Cartridges," some are given a more favorable rating than found in the
summary section copied here. For instance, there the .25 Remington automatic
is deemed "excellent" for deer and black bear, but here it is rated suitable
only for coyotes and smaller.

The section on chamber casts is intriguing, but I think I'd go with one
of the commercial, low melting point metal alloys. I also have included his
thoughts on slugging a bore; I had scanned one page more than needed and
decided to leave it in.

His section on the finishing of rifle stocks also interested me. As
noted below, I cannot recommend his procedure, but it may explain why many
old guns found at gun shows have rather black stocks.

According to information on the site of the U.S. Copyright Office, this
book should have passed into the public domain a few years ago, and I have
shamelessly copied these sections verbatim. I have not changed the
original's punctuation, which to the modern eye looks a bit busy, nor have I
corrected some obvious grammatical errors and typos.

It often happens that one wishes to measure the chamber of his rifle
to determine its exact size and dimensions, and to determine how these
compare with the measurements of the cartridge and bullet. The best
method of doing this is to make a sulphur mould of the chamber, and
then measure the mould with a pair of micrometer calipers reading to
thousandths of an inch.

First, wipe the bore of the rifle, and the chamber as well, perfectly
dry and clean, using gasoline and then dry patches. If any metal
fouling is present, use the regular metal fouling solution. Then run
through a patch saturated with kerosene, until there is a thin coating
of this oil covering all portions of the bore and chamber. Next, melt
powdered sulphur in an iron dish with a lip of some kind from which
a small, thin stream can be poured. This is best done over a gas flame
or alcohol lamp. Have at hand a cover of some kind for the dish so
that the flame can be smothered in case the sulphur catches fire. Put
a tight wooden plug in the bore of the rifle just ahead of the chamber.
Then pour the fluid sulphur into the chamber from the breech. As
the sulphur cools a hole will form in the center. Keep on pouring
slowly until this hole is filled up. Allow it to stand a short time to
cool and solidify, then push it out carefully by means of a cleaning
rod inserted from the muzzle. It may start rather hard at first, in
which case try a few very light taps on the cleaning rod with a hammer,
being careful not to hurt the mould. The mould will make a
perfect cast of the chamber, and the shape and measurements of the
chamber can be determined from it. A sulphur mould will not change
for the first 48 hours after it is taken out, but after that you may
expect it to shrink about .001 inch, and the surface will change until
it has a rough appearance.

Throughout this work the "groove diameter" of the bore has been
frequently referred to, meaning the diameter of the inside of the
barrel, measuring from the bottom of one groove to the bottom of the
opposite groove. This diameter is quite important when working up an
accurate load for a rifle, because it indicates the exact size and fit
of the bullet which will do the best work as a rule. The groove diameter
of a barrel varies considerably, even in rifles chambered for the same
cartridge. This is due chiefly to speed of manufacture, and wear of
drills and cutters. I have measured a number of .30-caliber barrels
which have measurements running all the way from .308 to .311 inch, the
standard being .308 inch. It is always desirable to find out the exact
diameter by actually measuring the bore, and not to trust too implicitly
that it is exact standard.

In selecting a barrel one of the things we should look for is
evenness of bore. The bore should have no tight or loose places. A rifle
will do its best work if it is a perfect cylinder from breech to muzzle,
not of course taking into consideration the grooves. Some riflemen think
that a very slight taper from breech to muzzle, tighter at the muzzle
than breech, is even better than a straight cylinder, and at least it
can do no harm if it is not too pronounced. Such taper, except in Pope
muzzle-loading barrels, is always accidental; all our barrels being
designed to be a true cylinder.

To determine the size and evenness of the bore it is necessary to
push a lead bullet through it, and then to measure that bullet with a
micrometer caliper which reads to thousandths of an inch or finer. For
this purpose a soft lead bullet is best, and it should fit the bore
rather tightly. For the .30-caliber a lead bullet for the .32-40
cartridge does excellently, as it is .003 larger than the standard
.30-caliber size, and is made of almost pure lead. The barrel should
first be well cleaned, and then lubricated with a thin oil like "3 in 1"
or sewing machine oil. The bullet is then inserted point first into the
chamber, and very carefully seated in the rifling a little ahead of the
chamber. Then place the rifle in a very heavy vise, like a carpenter's
wood vise, fastened to a heavy bench. Take a strong cleaning rod almost
the diameter of the bore, and with a powerful, but very steady pressure,
push the bullet through the bore with one motion, noting the pressure
which it takes to send it through. After a little practice one can tell
by the pressure whether there are any tight or loose places in the bore.
As the bullet emerges from the muzzle, catch it carefully so that it
will not be in the least deformed, and measure it carefully with the
micrometer, measuring the maximum diameter where the bullet has fitted
down into the grooves. This will give the groove diameter of the barrel,
usually the diameter near the muzzle. To obtain the diameter at the
muzzle and breech insert a bullet into either end just a little way,
place the end of the cleaning rod against it, and give the rod a sharp
blow with a hammer so as to fully expand the bullet to fit the rifling
at this point, but not to drive it far forward. Then insert the cleaning
rod at the opposite end of the bore and carefully push out the bullet,
and measure it. To determine whether the bore is choked or not, force a
bullet through in one direction and note the force and feeling, and then
reverse and force one through in the opposite direction. All this takes
a little skill, but it is easily learned. The main thing is to see that
the bullet is not deformed as it leaves the bore. A little fall, or jam
will considerably alter the dimensions of a soft lead bullet.

In using a micrometer caliper do not use any force in screwing it
up. The tool usually has a ratchet click to the screw handle, and the
correct pressure is being applied to the screw to give the right reading
when this ratchet has clicked once or twice. Before starting in to
measure, standardize the micrometer by measuring something of known
diameter. The .30-caliber, 150-grain, United States service bullet, for
example, should measure just about .30825 inch.

The ordinary stock on the straight American factory rifle is not
polished. It is simply varnished. Some high-grade stocks are likewise
varnished with a glass-like finish. A varnished stock is an abomination. It
looks well when new, but a few weeks of field service covers it with
scratches which cannot be obliterated by any amount of rubbing with oil. And
when the varnish is worn off such a stock it absorbs water and warps badly.
The best stocks are finished or polished simply by repeated rubbings in of
raw linseed oil, this finish being given the trade name of "dull London oil
finish." Well done in this manner, the stock shows its grain beautifully,
has a dull, rich, velvet-like surface which persists, resists dampness
splendidly, and if it becomes scratched the scratches can be almost entirely
obliterated by a rubbing with raw linseed oil. This is the finish which all
stocks and forearms should have.

It is an easy matter for anyone to repolish a stock in this manner, and
it adds much to the appearance and serviceability of the rifle. Go to a
paint and oil shop and purchase half a pint of varnish remover, and a pint
of raw linseed oil. Also get several sheets of medium, fine, and very fine
sandpaper. Remove the stock and forearm from the rifle, and take off
butt-plate and all metal parts. With a brush or cloth wet the stock all over
with the varnish remover, and let it soak in for half an hour, then rub off.
One or two applications of this will suffice to remove all the varnish. Then
scrub the surface of the wood all over with water, wetting it thoroughly.
This will raise the grain of the stock, making it look "fuzzy." The wood
should then be dried quickly by holding it over a stove, or passing it over
a lamp. This will help to raise the grain still further. Then sandpaper off
the raised grain or "fuzziness," using the medium-grade sandpaper. Repeat
this process of wetting, drying, and sandpapering four or five times, the
last time or two using the fine and very fine sandpaper for the polishing.
The object of this is to get a permanent, very smooth, velvety surface on
which the grain will not raise up when the wood becomes wet. When you can no
longer raise the grain by wetting the wood and drying, dry it thoroughly,
give it a fine polish with the very fine sandpaper, and set the stock away
over night in a dry place.

We are now ready for the oil finish. Pour about a teaspoonful of raw
linseed oil on the surface of the wood, and polish it with the palm of the
bare hand, rubbing the oil well into the wood, and continuing the rubbing
without stopping until the oil is all rubbed in, and the wood becomes dry
and warm from the friction. Repeat this rubbing with oil time after time on
every part of the stock and forearm until the finish desired is attained.
The excellent finish seen on very expensive stocks is attained in this
manner, sometimes as many as thirty or forty coats of oil being rubbed in by
hand. Once the stock and forearm have been polished in this manner all they
will need to keep them in perfect condition and appearance is an occasional
polish with the raw linseed oil. This should be done every time the rifle
gets wet with rain or perspiration. The checked portion of the stock and
forearm, and the cuts into which the metal work of the receiver and barrel
fits, can be polished by oiling with a tooth brush. Do not rub hard enough
on the checking to dull it. Before assembling the stock and forearm to the
rifle, it is well to coat the cuts which the tang and guard fit into, the
surface of the wood under the butt plate and the inside of the forearm with
beeswax or some very heavy grease like Winchester gun grease or Corol.
Walnut has become so expensive and scarce lately that many ordinary stocks
are now made of other woods. These may require the application of a dark
walnut stain before the oil is applied.

I must note that today a finish of raw linseed oil is thought to be a
poor choice. This excerpt, from the site of the U.S. Forest Products
Laboratory, in Wisconsin, explains why:

Linseed oil is obtained from flax seed. Raw (unprocessed)
linseed oil is a mixture of several fatty acids, which have two interesting
properties. First, these acids are natural products and as such are "food"
for many organisms. Just as mold can grow on leftover potato salad, mildew
grows very well on surfaces that contain linseed oil. Second, the chemical
makeup of some of these acids makes it possible for them to react with
oxygen in the air to form a solid. For raw linseed oil, this reaction is
extremely slow. When linseed oil is boiled, changes occur in the chemical
structure of the fatty acids that enable them to react with oxygen more
quickly. The term "boiled" also includes linseed oil that has catalysts
(also called "driers") that make it react with oxygen more quickly. Boiled
linseed oil can be used to make finishes. However, in most modern finishes,
linseed oil is modified to form an "alkyd" resin, which makes the finish
less prone to mildew.

Still, this method of finishing a stock will likely give many years of
good service, else Whelen would not have thought so highly of it. It is
certainly inexpensive. A top coat of a good wax might be prudent. I cannot
recommend using "boiled" linseed oil with Whelen's technique; some of the
driers which can be used are a bit dangerous.

The discussion as to the killing qualities of the various cartridges
when used on big game has been going on for many years; in fact, it is
probably as old as is the use of the rifle on game. As far back as 1886
sporting papers devoted columns to the subject, while in the English press
we have records of discussions of this character ninety years ago. And still
sportsmen disagree. First we had the "big- vs. small-bore dissussion," then
the "high- and low-velocity discussion"; next we were treated to a
dissertation on energy and foot pounds, and today it is all "explosive
effect." We even see many men waxing eloquent in print on this subject who
have never killed or seen killed a single head of big game in their lives.
Therefore right at the start of this subject I had better qualify as to my
right to discuss it by stating that as near as I can count up I have to date
(August, 1917) shot with my own rifle seventy-two head of big game. I have
killed all the big game of North and Central America except bear, caribou,
white sheep, musk-ox, tapir, puma, and jaguar. In addition I have been in at
the death of, and have examined the wounds of, at least one hundred and
fifty head besides those I have killed myself.

What we should look for in a big-game cartridge is one that will cause
the least suffering by killing as instantly as possible. While not
sacrificing this killing power, we also need accuracy, so that we can
surely hit a vital spot on our game; and flat trajectory, so that we can
hit that spot at a distance, taking into consideration our error in
estimating the range. What to look for in a big-game cartridge is,
therefore, first killing power, second accuracy, third trajectory.

Probably the mightiest hunter who ever lived was Sir Samuel Baker, an
Englishman, who hunted for many years during the middle of the last century
in India, Africa, and also in North America. He killed every species of big
game in these countries, his bag numbering many thousands. Rifles, and
particularly their killing power, was a hobby of his, and he has left a lot
of interesting literature on the subject. He had many special rifles made to
his order in England. An extremely large and powerful man, he could handle
arms of very heavy weight and extreme recoil, which would have been
absolutely out of the question for the ordinary sportsman. The largest rifle
which he used on game weighed 20 pounds and had a barrel 36 inches long. It
shot a bullet weighing 1/2 pound and containing a bursting charge of 1/2
ounce of fine-grained powder. The propelling charge was 16 drams of black
powder. This was a veritable cannon. His favorite weapon for all game except
buffalo and elephant was a .577 double-barrelled rifle, carrying a solid
lead bullet of 648 grains, and a charge of 6 drams of black powder. He
always was very strong in his condemnation of the light, hollow-point,
express bullet. He states that after many years of experience in all the
game fields of the world it is his opinion that the most killing missile
that one can use against game is the largest bullet of soft lead that one
can fire with comfort from the shoulder. Our own experience in black-powder
days was exactly similar to this. We found that the large heavy bullet was
always the better killer, and that light, hollow-point bullets could not be
depended upon except for thin-skinned, easily killed game. What was needed
was a bullet that would surely drive straight through into the vitals, in no
matter what direction the animal was facing. Light bullets would often go to
pieces and be stopped by a heavy bone, thus failing to reach a vital part.
Most any rifle would kill if one got a fair, standing, broadside shot, and
could aim accurately so as to reach the heart, but game cannot always be
found standing in this position. Indeed the usual target one has will be a
rear shot at game running away, and what is wanted is a bullet with a charge
behind it that, in such a position, will plow right through into the chest
vitals without being deviated or stopped by striking a heavy bone. The
experience of our older hunters has been that by all odds the most killing
rifle that was made in America in black-powder days was that shooting the
.45-caliber bullet weighing 500 grains. This bullet was a much better killer
than the .45-330 hollow-point bullet, or any of the lighter or smaller
caliber bullets. It is to be understood that in the days of black powder the
velocity varied only from about 1300 feet per second to about 1500 feet per
second. All lead bullets expanded on hitting game to about double their
diameter. The light, hollow-point bullets expanded a little more than the
solid bullets, but were liable to break into several small pieces, lacked
penetration, and were liable to deflection by bones. They were therefore not
as reliable as the long, heavy bullet. These lead bullets at low velocity
did little damage to tissue that was not directly in the path of the bullet.

Upon the advent of smokeless powder and small-caliber rifles, sportsmen
evinced a desire to use them as sporting arms, believing that their flat
trajectory would be of great advantage in game shooting. Catering to this
demand, the factories turned out experimentally some soft-nose bullets; that
is, bullets on which the metal jackets did not extend clear up to the point,
but left from one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch of lead exposed at the
nose. Upon trial it was found that such bullets were excellent killers on
large game. The bullet expanded well, held together, and, moreover, seemed
to "pulp" the tissue for several inches around the bullet hole. An extended
experience proved that even here the long, heavy bullet had a decided
advantage over the light bullet, the latter often being deflected and going
to pieces on very large bones. For example, it was found that the long
220-grain bullet used in the .30-40 Krag cartridge was a much better killer
on all game above deer than the light 160- or 170-grain bullet of the .30-30
rifle. The first small bore, smokeless, high-velocity bullets were all of
.25 or .30-caliber, and sportsmen gradually came of the opinion that such
rifles, and particularly the .30-40, exceeded in killing power any of the
larger bores, even the .45-70-500. I cannot say that I personally share this
opinion. I have killed many head of game with the black powder arms, and of
course in late years with the small caliber, high-velocity arms, and with
the latter arms I have never gotten the large proportion of clean kills that
I used to get with the heavy black powder rifles. With these latter rifles
time after time the game has dropped so quickly to the shot that I did not
see it go down on account of the view being momentarily blotted out by the
recoil. With the smokeless arms the game seems to stagger around for several
seconds before going down, or else runs madly for from 50 to 100 yards
before dropping. In this opinion I am backed up by quite a few sportsmen of
extended experience, and particularly by Mr. James H. Kidder of the Boone
and Crockett Club, the first sportsman to hunt the Alaska brown bear
extensively. On these bear Mr. Kidder used both a .30-40 Winchester Model
1895 rifle and a .45-70-405 Winchester Model 1886 rifle. Mr. Kidder's
experience was so extensive and so fortunately comparative as to leave no
doubt whatever that on large bear the .45-70-405 with a muzzle energy of
1560 foot pounds was a much more killing cartridge than the .30-40 which has
a muzzle energy of 1950 foot pounds.

An occasional failure of the small bores on the largest game led to the
placing on the market about 1903 of such cartridges as the .35 Winchester
with 250-grain bullet and the .405 Winchester with a 300-grain bullet, and
these calibers proved to have much greater killing power than the first
small-bore, high-velocity arms.

I do not wish it to be considered that I believe the old, heavy,
blackpowder arms to be better game guns than the high-velocity, smokeless
arms. As I said at the start of this chapter, there are other things to
consider besides killing power; and the absence of smoke, the light recoil,
the superior accuracy, and the high velocity of modern arms make it a much
easier task to surely hit in a vital part, which fully makes up for the
slightly superior shocking qualities of the large, heavy, soft-lead bullet.
When the factories began to give us high-velocity, smokeless rifles of
larger bore and using heavier bullets, we began to come nearer to the ideal
big-game rifle, for we retained the lack of smoke, the light recoil, the
accuracy, and the flat trajectory, and at the same time we got back some of
the qualities of the old, big, blackpowder rifles -- the shocking power and
the ability of the bullet to penetrate straight through in the direction in
which aimed, no matter how the animal faced. Our heaviest rifle, the .405
Winchester, particularly excels in this respect.

About 1906, rifles with the extremely high velocity of 2700 feet per
second began to appear. These were first brought out as military arms, and
had a light, extremely sharp pointed, full-jacketed bullet. At first it was
thought that such a bullet would penetrate cleanly, making only a very small
hole. On trial, however, it was found that they had an explosive effect on
tissue, and that they made extremely bad wounds and had good killing power.
On striking they seemed to spin around on their points, often penetrating
sideways, and the high velocity apparently gave an explosive effect to their
blow so that the tissue for a considerable distance around would be
completely blown to pulp. This effect, as stated, occurred with the
full-jacketed, light, sharp-point bullet. Such bullets were used
considerably on game, but it was quickly found that they had one undesirable
quality. They were found very frequently to glance off at a considerable
angle when striking a bone, instead of penetrating into the vitals in the
direction in which aimed. There are on record a number of instances where
such bullets, aimed at an animal standing broadside, have struck a rib, and,
glancing, have almost encircled the animal just under the skin, inflicting a
painful, but not at all a killing, wound. The light, 150-grain .30-caliber,
pointed bullet was a particular offender in this respect. The 170-grain
bullet of the same caliber seems to have been a much better killer. The
factories took the matter up and quickly placed on the market soft-point,
sharp-nosed bullets intended to be used in these rifles at extremely high
velocity. Rifles firing these bullets at 2700 feet per second and upwards
have been found to be extremely effective on large game. The explosive
effect is retained, even increased over the full-jacketed bullet, and there
is no longer the tendency to glance. Undoubtedly such bullets are the
big-game missiles of the future. At the same time we find that the old
principle holds true, that the light, short bullet is liable to be deflected
or to go to pieces on a very large, heavy bone, and fail to do its damage in
the vitals, while the heavy bullet smashes right through in the direction in
which aimed. It is my opinion that in .30 caliber, the 150-grain,
sharp-pointed, expanding bullet is a little too light for such game as moose
and large bears, and that much better success will be had with a similar
bullet of 170 or even 180 grains. A .30-caliber, expanding, pointed bullet
of 170 grains, driven with a muzzle velocity of 2700 feet per second, is
certainly a most killing and satisfactory charge for all game found in North
America, and experience has shown that it is also excellent on all African
game with the exception of elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros, and hippopotamus.
These largest of all living animals require a much heavier rifle, and the
experience of African hunters has shown that nothing less than a .40-caliber
rifle, shooting a 400-grain bullet at 2000 feet per second can be considered
as suitable for such game, and the standard weapon for such hunting has come
to be a .450 or .465 rifle, shooting a 450-grain, jacketed bullet at from
2000 to 2200 feet per second. Such rifles are almost always double barreled,
and are made in England.

In the last two years there have appeared on the market several rifles
of extremely small bore (.25 caliber), shooting light bullets varying from
86 grains to 123 grains, and with velocities running from 3000 to 3300 feet
per second. It is claimed that the explosive effect of such rifles is so
great that they are suitable for all American game. I have tried such
rifles on deer and am willing to accede to their killing qualities on such
game, but I have my serious doubts as to their suitability for our largest
game. There seems to be a desire, almost a madness, among some hunters (I
will not call them sportsmen) to seek after the tightest and smallest bore
rifle possible. It always seems strange to me that this is so, but it is
undoubtedty a fact. I would like to go on record as being strongly opposed
to the use of such arms on game larger than deer from a humanitarian point
of view. Such a course is bound to cause much needless suffering. I grant
that such rifles will kill quickly if the bullet chances to penetrate intact
into the chest cavity near to the heart, but this is not possible half the
time with such arms because they have not the penetration. The bullet
explodes when it hits, it fails to penetrate through any amount of tissue.
It causes a bad wound where it hits, but the striking point is not half the
time in such a location that the damage will reach into the chest cavity and
to the heart, and when such is not the case there is inflicted an extremely
painful, dangerous wound which does not at all cripple the beast at the
time, but which usually causes death after some days of extreme suffering. A
man who will hunt moose and elk with a 6-pound, .22-caliber, high-power
rifle has very little regard for the suffering of dumb beasts; at least so
it seems to me, and the .25 caliber is going it only a little better. On the
other hand, we know that rifles like the .30 caliber using a 170-grain
bullet at 2700 feet per second, and the .405 Winchester, will, nine times
out of ten, if the game be hit fairly near a vital point, and eight times
out of ten if it be hit anywhere in the chest or abdominal cavity, kill
almost instantly. The game does not suffer, and the conscience of the hunter
is as clear as it can be.

There has come in recent years a tendency to regard the energy of a
cartridge as a correct measure of its killing power. I do not share in this
belief. Only when the weight, shape, and construction of the bullet is the
same would this hold true. Energy itself is no indication of the killing
power. The .250 Savage high-power cartridge has a velocity of 3000 feet per
second and uses an 87-grain bullet. Its muzzle energy is 1740 foot pounds.
To say that this cartridge is as good, better, or anywhere near as good a
killer on big game as the .45-70-500 cartridge with its energy of only 1602
foot pounds is to my mind simply ridiculous.

I append herewith my own opinion as to the killing qualities of a number
of our cartridges. This list is the result of my experience of twenty-five
years of hunting. I have talked this matter over with a number of sportsmen
of international reputation, and also with a number of guides of great
experience in game shooting, and have found that almost invariably their
experience leads to exactly the same conclusions as mine. The cartridges are
divided into several classes according to the class of game they are
suitable for, and they are given in each class in what I consider their
relative degree of killing power at ranges under 200 yards, beginning with
the most powerful. The numbers in parenthesis give the relative degree of
killing power (opinion) at ranges exceeding 200 yards. The figures after the
name of the cartridge are the bullet weight, the muzzle velocity, and the
muzzle energy. The letter "S" after the name of a cartridge indicates that
it is a special, hand-loaded cartridge, and cannot be procured from
factories loaded to secure this ballistics (these cartridges are described
in the chapter on "Cartridges"). An asterisk (*) after the name of a
cartridge indicates that it is not recommended for shots at a range of over
150 yards.

CLASS I

The following cartridges will be found perfectly satisfactory for all
American game, including Alaska brown bear, grizzly bear, and moose.
They are needlessly powerful, but otherwise perfectly satisfactory for
deer.

CLASS II

The following cartridges will be found perfectly satisfactory for all
American game except perhaps Alaska brown bear, grizzly bear, and moose. On
these three species they can not be relied upon to give a large percentage
of clean kills with the first shot.

CLASS III

Deer cartridges. Often used for larger game, particularly by
professional hunters, trappers, and Indians, but larger game than deer
usually requires a number of shots to kill. This class are popular on
account of cheapness, weight, and rifles and ammunition can be procured
almost anywhere.

CLASS VII

Many American cartridges have been ommitted from this list because they
are seldom used and have almost become obsolete. The reader should also
consult the chapter on "Cartridges" in connection with this list.

In many cases the point of view of the sportsman very properly enters
into the choice of a cartridge. For example: Perhaps a sportsman has been
longing for years to take a moose hunt. At last the time comes when he can
get away from business. The hunt will cost him, say, $500. On this trip he
may get just one chance at a bull moose, and it is perhaps the only trip he
will get in years. The success of the trip depends greatly on his getting
the coveted trophy, and everything possible should of course be done to
insure the success of the trip. He has, we will say, a .33 Winchester rifle.
It should appear foolish for him to risk the success of this trip by using
this rifle when for about $40 additional he can procure a rifle like the
.405 Winchester, with which the chances for a successful kill, particularly
if he should get but one shot, are so much greater.

On the other hand, a man who has already killed every species of
American game can afford to be independent. The procuring of a trophy is no
longer absolutely necessary to the success of the trip. I believe that such
a man will obtain more satisfaction from an "all-around" rifle of fine
accuracy, one like the .30-40 Winchester single shot, which will shoot both
high power and reduced loads with great accuracy and with practically the
same sight setting. With such a rifle he will take pride in skillful
stalking, and in clean kills with the first shot, and such kills will bring
him as much satisfaction as did his first, well-earned trophies.

We find that throughout the whole of northern Canada, except perhaps in
Yukon Territory, the .30-30 Winchester is the most popular rifle, and is
almost always seen in carbine form. There are several reasons for this. The
rifle and cartridges are the cheapest of the high-power variety. Almost all
dealers carry them in stock. In the far north the Hudson Bay Company and its
rival traders handle only this rifle and cartridge. The ammunition can be
obtained anywhere, whereas ammunition for other rifles is extremely hard to
get at any price. The preference of the carbine is indicative of the power
of this cartridge. For large game several shots are almost always necessary
to kill, and a carbine is handier and quicker for rapid fire, particularly
in brush, than the rifle with longer barrel.