Wood Chips Are Coming!

In the editorial published in the issue 44, September 2005, we discussed about
the probable promulgation of a new decree from the European Union about the
possibility of using wood chips in the production of wines. The news arose a lot
of rumors in Italy and in other countries of the Union, as to believe, with this
new Community decree, the imminent invasion of wines having the highly
wanted wood aroma. A fear which rightly alarmed the lovers of the beverage of
Bacchus. In a pretty crowded scene of so many wines all the same, all alike,
the chance to further homologating the organoleptic qualities of wines, and with
a pretty arguable method, could not be a reason of happiness for everyone
respecting wine, its culture and tradition. In other words, this fear was pretty
justified. The decree initially provided for the use of wood chips also in the
so called quality wines, that is the ones belonging to denominations which
should - as a matter of fact - ensure not only the origin of wines, but also
their quality. In other words, it was an extraordinary paradox!

Everyone has the right of choosing his or her own wine, there is no doubt about
this, however there is no doubt as well everyone has the right of not choosing
what he or she does not like. What was rightly asked the most, it was not the
banning of such a decree by the European Union, what was asked the most was a
better honesty and clearness for consumers, as well as a better safeguarding for
quality products. Whether there are consumers who consciously decide to buy a
wine made with wood chips because this is what they want, there is nothing wrong
about this: de gustibus non disputandum est (there is no dispute about
tastes). Whether there are consumers and producers who prefers wines made with
wood chips, this is their problem, however this cannot be or become the problem
of the ones who do not want this kind of wines. It is a matter of clearness and
fairness as well as of honesty. Supporters of this decree, asserted it was
necessary for the marketing competition of European wines against the wines
produced in the New World, where this practice is permitted and allows
the production of wines with undeniable lower costs.

In October 11th, 2006 - as it was expected - the European Commission has
promulgated the new decree and therefore also in Europe the use of wood chips in
the production of wines is permitted. Indeed, in its form, the new decree has
made happy both the producers who want to make use of this technique while, at
the same time, safeguarding the right of choice and information in consumers.
Regulation N. 1507/2006 of October 11th, 2006, in fact provides for the use of
oak chips in the production of wines, obligating producers who want to use this
technique to write it in the labels. This certainly is a good news. Doing so, it
is ensured the right of choice of consumers, although relying on the honesty of
producers and the hope there are rules and procedures in order to avoid frauds.
It is on the honesty of the producer one must trust - as usual, after all -
because this decree obliges him or her to write, in a special record and
documents, the possible use of wood chips in the production.

At the beginning, the orientation of Italy was to permit the use of wood chips
for the production of table wines only, whereas it was not provided for the use
in wines belonging to superior categories (IGT, DOC and DOCG). In November 2nd,
2006 has been approved by the Italian Minister of Agricultural Politics Mr.
Paolo De Castro the reception of the new European Regulation and in which it is
found, besides wines tables, in Italy will be permitted the use of wood chips in
Typical Geographic Indication (IGT) wines as well. The decree forbids the use of
wood chips in all VQPRD (Quality Wines Produced in Determined Region), that is
in wines belonging to the Denominazione d'Origine Controllata
(Denomination of Controlled Origin, DOC) and Denominazione d'Origine
Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin,
DOCG). A choice that - as a matter of fact - represents the safeguarding of
quality wines as well as the fulfillment of the requests some producers asked
for their right of choice, in order to equally compete with the producers of the
countries of the New World where this technique is permitted.

Let's see the details of the new European Regulation. First of all the
possibility of using wood chips in the production in order to pass to the wine
some components contained in oak wood. The type of wood allowed for the
production of wines must exclusively come from trees belonging to the
quercus species, in their natural condition or heated in the defined ways
light, medium or strong, without having undergone burning processes, not even in
the surface, must not show any coal like aspect or being friable to the touch
and must not have undergone chemical, enzymatic or physical treatments different
from heating. Moreover, wood chips must not release substances in concentration
such to cause risks for the health and any other treatment must be reported in a
record. The size of at least 95% of wood chips used for the production of wine
must be greater than 2 millimeters. The Regulation is aware of the fact wood
chips, as they give the wine organoleptic qualities similar to the ones aged in
oak barrels, make difficult for the consumer to realize what method has been
used for a specific wine.

Despite the fact they understand the use of wood chips allows the production of
wines at a lower cost - and this may certainly influence the price as well - the
Regulation understand this practice can cause confusion among consumers and it
is adequate to adopt measures in order to ensure clearness and information about
the type of wine. In the labels of wines produced with this technique must be
stated the origin and the botanical species of oaks from which the chips are
being obtained, the intensity of heating and keeping practices. It is forbidden
to write in the label any term usually destined for wines fermented or aged in
cask, such as fermented in cask or aged in barrique. This new Regulation
- after all - gives satisfaction both to consumers and producers, while ensuring
the right of choice of both. It is then granted the choice of the producer who
wants to make use of wood chips - but only in some categories of wines -
obligating him or her to clearness towards consumers who, at that point, are
granted the right of choice. All we have to do now is to wait for the
consequences of this regulation and see how many and what wines will pass from
the traditional cask to cheaper oak chips, attracted by the chances to make a
wine with a wood aroma at a lower price. We will see, provided they will
allow us to clearly see everything, while granting to us consumers both the
right of information an the protection against the ones - and we can bet on it -
who are already planning new frauds without paying any consequence, in a
superficial world where the smart ones are always lying in ambush. One law,
many tricks…

MailBox

In this column are published our reader's mail. If you have any comment or any
question or just want to express your opinion about wine, send your letters to
our editorial or fill in
the form available at
our site.

I own a small vineyard from which I harvest grapes for the
production of white wine that I ferment and age in a steel tank. How many
racking are required before bottling?

Giuseppe Berveglieri -- Imola (Italy)

Racking is a fundamental operation allowing the improvement and
stability of wine. Its primary function is to separate the liquid
part - the wine - from the solid parts - the lees - which naturally
deposit on the bottom of containers. The contact of the wine with
its lees is not always recommended, as it may cause faults, bad
aromas and flavors, therefore it is always recommended to
periodically rack the wine. Racking also favor the spontaneous
clarification of wine. A non racked wine will in fact have more
difficulties in the sedimentation of suspended solid parts. There are
two racking methods: racking in contact of air and
racking with no air contact. The first method allows the wine
to oxygenate and to eliminate bad aromas which could eventually
develop during aging, whereas the second method is preferred for
light wines which are prone to oxidation. In general terms, white
wines are racked three times before bottling. The first racking is
usually done after about two weeks from the initial racking, in order
to favor the fermentation of sugar before the arrive of the cold
season and in order to avoid any contact with the lees. The second
racking is done at the end of November-half December, in order to
take advantage of the arrive of the low temperatures which favor the
sedimentation of solid parts and the clarification of wine. The third
and last racking is done at the end of February-half March, before
the arrive of springtime and the raising of temperature.

What is the difference between Rhine Riesling and Johannisberg
Riesling known in the United States of America?

Nicholas Ladson -- Atlanta (USA)

Rhine Riesling is considered the most valued grape of Germany
and among the most valued grapes in the world. Riesling - thanks to
its qualities - allows the production of white wines which can
undergo many years of aging in bottle and it is one of the main
grapes used in Germany and Austria for the production of
Icewines. Because of its popularity, Rhine Riesling is today
considered an international grape and it is cultivated in many
wine countries of the world, including the United States of America.
It is believed some German immigrant who arrived in the United States
of America at the end of the nineteenth century, brought with them
some plants of Rhine Riesling. Because of the confusion about the
name of this grape, they decided to call it Johannisberg
Riesling, in order to give the grape a German identity and
origin. The cultivation of Rhine Riesling began in the United States
of America in the Finger Lakes and Lake Erie areas, in the eastern
part of the country, where it is still today common. The cultivation
of Johannisberg Riesling in California began in 1857, followed in 1871
in Washington state.

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