Chomolhari 2006

On October 27 the six-members Slovenian team (Marko Prezelj, Boris Lorencic, Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Matej Kladnik and Samo Krmelj) came home from their successful Tibet expedition. Their goal was to climb Chomolhari (7350m), known as “the bride of Kanchengjunga”, an impressing, pyramid mountain on the Tibet-Bhutan border.

For the Base Camp the team chose a place near the holy lake Chomo Lharang (c.5100m) under the north face of Chomolhari. After 10 days of acclimatisation and climbing the nearby Jangmo Gopsha peak (6706m) the Slovenians decided to make an attempt to climb Chomolhari.

According to Marko Prezelj's report:Rok Blagus, Tine Cuder, Samo Krmelj and Matej Kladnik chose Left Couloir on the North Face. First day they climbed to c6800 m where they made bivy. The couloir was full of fresh snow and 45 and 60 degrees ice. On October 14 they climbed over the upper part of couloir (60 to 80 dgr.) to the East ridge on c7100 m. They followed the ridge to the summit. They descended to the bivy and continued the descend the next day mostly with rappeling. They graded their route TD+, 80/45-60, c1900m