I still crave the salumi, and the cocktails are always on point, but over the last year the number of salumi and pate offerings has dropped, perhaps to make way for the pizza.

When it opened in 2009, Chad Arnold created 40 different salumis and eight pates. I tasted most of them and they were all distinctive. Yet I understand how difficult it would be for one restaurant to continue to offer that many varieties.

Last year the selections were whittled down to 25. When I returned last month, there were 16, plus five pates. In their stead, Smulewitz and chef Angelo Holland have added pizza al taglia - literally, by the slice, but actually, by the square ($5-$8). The portion is cut in two, making easy-to-eat rectangles.

I was underwhelmed; the two I tried - one topped with asparagus and ricotta ($7), and the other with tiny pork meatballs and red onions ($8) - tasted premade, with a stiff cardboard-y crust and dull-tasting toppings.

I also was disappointed in the pickled vegetables - carrots and barely infused radishes ($5) - and the arugula salad ($7), which had a nearly flavorless dressing in need of salt.

The saving graces remain the well-balanced cocktails - the Billionaire ($10), with bourbon, lemon, grenadine and absinthe bitters, is still one of the greats.

The salumi, too, is still outstanding, including bresaola Riserva ($15), with red wine and black pepper; my go-to favorite, felino ($10), with vanilla and anise seed; and Marche ($11), with saffron, white wine and a touch of honey. There's also a chef's selection ($15) of three kinds; on my visit it was coppa, mortadella and smoked pimenton, served with baguette slices.

With the changes in the menu, the service has become more disjointed and the idea of an aperitivo bar has been diminished. That said, I'll still put Adesso's salumi up against any other. I'm confident it would come out on top.