Super swell hits North Shore

The first part of a massive two-day swell hit the North Shore of island on Monday, pushing waves at Waimea Bay above 25 feet.

But organizers of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave surf contest said the conditions were too bumpy and blown out to hold the contest. They decided to wait one more day to see if the size of the waves would remain but the froth and tumult of the famous surf break smooths out.

"We've got broken boards and broken bodies today," said announcer Beau Hodge. "We've got the size, but not the perfect conditions that Eddie would want."

"Eddie" is Eddie Aikau, the North Shore legend who lost his life in 1978 while trying to paddle for help from a disabled traditional Hawaiian double hulled canoe. This is the 25th year of the surf contest held to honor his life and sacrifice.

The surf continued to build through the day Monday, with wave heights of up to 50 or even 60 feet on the outer reefs and 30-foot plus surf a strong possibility for Waimea Bay.

The pros who turned out to surf anyway said they were willing to wait.

"There's no need to rush - it looks good for tomorrow," said Greg Long of San Clemente, one of the event invitees. Long plans to surf the Eddie Tuesday, fly immediately to the Mavericks contest on Wednesday and then perhaps to Todos Santos in Mexico - all to ride high surf created by the same 7,000-mile long storm path. Veteran Hawaii surfer Sunny Garcia, who currently lives in San Clemente, and perennial pro surfing circuit champion Kelly Slater will also take part.

With the contest called off, pros practiced and skilled amateurs were able to try the waves. Veteran Australian rider Tom Carroll severely injured his left ankle on one wave and was taken by ambulance to a nearby hospital.

Don Bigelow, 43, a surf shop owner from Orange, had flown in to take advantage of the record surf. He rode Waimea Bay on Sunday when surf heights topped out at around 20 feet while he was there. But the foaming, bumpy seas today were too much for his borrowed board.

"I've been surfing for 33 years and I've never seen Waimea this big," Bigelow said. "I need to get a bigger board."