Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Yesterday, as I was looking at the bright, big, shiny -and relatively tasteless- produce at my local supermarket, I could not help but miss the wonderful shops that make convenience shopping such a delightful experience in France. My countrymen use them daily, oui chaque jour, to get fresh bread, as well as meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables. Do the French patronize supermarkets? Bien sûr. Convenience is convenience, after all. Les supermarchés, and their smaller versions, les supérettes, are everywhere. Prices are lower there, and it saves time to pick up most groceries in one place. The French also take frequent trips to les hypermarchés, these gigantic stores that sell food, of course, but just about everything else as well (think Fred Meyer, but much, much bigger). While Americans were discovering malls in the 1960s, chains like Auchan and Carrefour started spreading all over France, Europe, and ultimately, the world, opening gigantic superstores mostly located in the suburbs due to their large size. I remember going to the local hypermarché with my mom when I was a teenager. It was our Friday evening ritual. While she filled the big cart with groceries, I would explore the giant aisles, looking for books, records (remember these?), gadgets, clothes. I never got bored there.

Times change. I live in the US now. I live in suburbia. La banlieue. It seems that our whole town could fit into one the giant Carrefour hypermarkets parking lots. There are very few decent specialty shops. Instead, there are chain stores, and parking lots, lots of parking lots. It's practical. It's convenient. No doubt about it. Still...

I was just in Paris, as you remember. Our rental apartment was located a few steps away from rue Oberkampf, a lively street that offers so many specialty stores that I did not even get a chance to visit them all during the two weeks we stayed in Paris. Quelle chance!

Snow does not stop local shoppers on busy rue Oberkampf

This is a blog that discusses France AND the French language, let's highlight some of the wonderful French specialty stores that survive and sometimes even thrive, in the age of big distribution, hyper-this, and giant-that. French 101. Les commerces de spécialité. Allons-y!

The most frequently patronized shop, is, without a doubt, la Boulangerie. This is where you buy your bread daily. Baguette, ficelle, gros pain, batard, etc. The French take their bread very seriously. If you ask several people what the best boulangerie is, they are likely to argue. The French love to disagree. Try it. Next time you go, ask two people "Qui vend la meilleure baguette?" (who sells the best baguette?) . Then wait, and enjoy the show. La boulangerie also offers les viennoiseries, a selection of baked goods made of flaky dough, croissants, pains au chocolat, pains au raisins... Often, la boulangerie is also une pâtisserie. You will find delicious and gorgeous desserts there.

If you are shopping for food, chances are you will also visit la boucherie, where you buy all your meat, and poultry.

If you prefer le poisson (fish), les coquillages (shellfish) or les fruits de mer (seafood), you will look for la poissonnerie.

Need fresh fruit and vegetable to go with the meal? Look for le Primeur... My favorite primeur on rue Oberkampf offered 4 different types of mandarin oranges. The owner knew where each had come from and had me taste them so I could make my choice. They were juicy and oh, so tasty!

A French meal would not be complete without du fromage. Just as the typical Frenchman knows the best boulangerie, he also knows the best fromagerie.

Look at the selection of goat cheese (chèvre) on the top shelf!

Let's not forget le vin... What's a good meal without wine? There are options... You could visit an independent store, un marchand de vin/un caviste or a good chain store, like Nicolas, where knowledgeable sales staff will be able to help you make your choice.

Finally, let's face it, on busy days, it feels like true luxury to have someone cook for you. A favorite shop of mine: le traiteur (often combined with la charcuterie). This is the closest thing you will find to an American deli in France. Delicious salads, plats cuisinés (entrées), cured meats, roasted chicken you can smell a mile away... It has it all. How can one live without a proper traiteur, I ask?

Beautiful terrines

Miam! Yum!

I hope you are ravenous by now. There are many more French specialty shops to discuss but it's dinner time here in Seattle. Unfortunately, I did not visit my friend le traiteur today, and that means I have to c.o.o.k. dinner. Quelle barbe! A bientôt, mes amis, et bon appétit!

1 comment:

Bonjour! I love hearing from you, my readers. To quote a fellow blogger, my friend Owen, "Comments are the icing on blogcake... Comments are the UFO in the twilight sky bearing news from other planets... Comments are raspberry vinegar in salad dressing... Comments are the cool balm of after-sun moisturizing lotion... Comments are the moment the band comes back out onstage to play an encore... Comments are the gleam in the eye across the room in a smoky bar... Comments are the rainbow after the rainstorm..." Merci for your comments! French Girl in Seattle

About Me

... or more precisely, bienvenue chez Véronique, a French native who moved to Seattle in 1996. Le blog was originally created to keep in touch with my French students, relatives and friends... and then something happened and readers kept coming! I tell stories about la Belle France, and all things French; and when on the road, travel stories with a French twist. Come and join the fun, here on the blog, or on Facebook: Our community is growing fast! -- A bientôt.