1. Using a sharp knife, cut the rind and white pith away from the oranges. Then cut out the orange sections, leaving behind the fibrous white material that separates the sections. Do the same with the lemon. Chop orange sections and lemon sections into coarse chunks, and place them gently in a bowl.2. Add the lemon rind, olives, garlic, paprika, cayenne pepper, ginger and sugar to the bowl. Stir gently to combine. Pour off any citrus juice that accumulates, and discard. Add the olive oil and parsley, stir gently once again, taste for seasoning, and serve immediately on grilled fish or grilled chicken.

There is a traditional Moroccan salad: an arrangement of orange slices and black olives dressed with olive oil. We've always loved the idea and the flavors, but find the whole olives a little strange, texturally, against the orange slices. The following sauce is based on that saladbut it combines the elements better. It's something like a Moroccan salsa, and it's sensational on grilled fish or grilled chicken. Look for wrinkled, flavorful, oil-cured black olives...just make sure they're not overly bitter. Makes enough sauce for 6 main-course servings of fish or chicken

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