I thought i should share some insight on how ive oversome some of the many problems with my friends and my sp-1 and vibe over the years. Ive personally teched 5 different guns in a variety of problems, some requiring creative solutions:

If the vibe is leaking somewhere in the gun locate the source of the leak by ear. First make sure the bolt, ASA, and reg are screwed in correctly. Then if the leak persists, easier detection can be had by taking off the grip frame.

If the leak is coming from the reg: -your pressure may be set too low, and you may need to increase the velocity (Do NOT do this if you know your gun was set at a high enough pressure before the leak, you may blow a soloniod) Start with the reg at the lowest setting and increase slowly. -the oring from the asa is damaged, replace it-CO2 is being vented from your gun in the topmost reg vent. Use hpa or a remote line to prevent liquid co2 from entering-The internals of the reg need servicing or replacement (ive had a loud trumpet noise come out of mine before and the reg seat needed to be replaced as it was sheared). This can be easily fixed. If the air is coming from the topmost of the 3 vents on the side of the reg nearest to the marker body, replace the 006 size o-ring in the overpressure vent valve. If its coming from the middle hole, it can be the piston o-ring, the lower 006 size piston o-rng or the reg seat. 10 cent fxes. If its not coming from the vents, and from the swivel, replace the swivel o-rings.

If the leak is coming from the bolt (out the breach)-degass and reset the bolt to the rear position. sometimes initial pressurization does not set the bolt back and air leaks-make sure the board is set to the right dwell setting (co2 vs hpa)-If you have another bolt replace it to see if the bolt is the actual problem. If it is, you may need to replace some orings. check for damage, lube, and/or replace. The active orings that move and are subject to more wear are the inside of the bolt stop the two in the front and the small one in the rear. -Before you replace o-rings make SURE thee reg pressure and tank pressure is reading right. 800+psi for tank, 120-180psi for reg. Get a pressure tester if possible. Also see where the air is leaking from on the bolt. Is it leaking from the bolt faace or around the bolt? Use your finger to plug the bolt face and feel. If its coming from inside, the bolt sail o-ring or the inner bolt stop o-rng is to blame. If its coming from the outside, the rear breech o-ring is to blame.-if the bolt is stuck forward and leaking it may be the bolt sail o-ring, the rear internal breech o-ring or ay be a problem with the banjos/forward line. Check the line first leading from the noid to the front banjo.

If the leak is soming from around the board:-Tighten up the banjo bolts! This is the prime cause of a leak! Banjo bolts get loose after a while. -If air still comes out of the banjo bolts, it may be an oring is damaged inside the one thats leaking. Replace.-If air is coming out of the hoses, replace the hose.

Leak from the asa: replace tank oring

Soleniod

For info on parts name and function see solenoid pic below. More solenoids are damaged by the user trying to repair it than mechanical faliure. DO NOT overtighten solenoid screws. Rely on the clips and tighten screws till snug, NOT tight.

*If the air comes out of the solonoid exaust port WHEN FIRING, AND the gun fails to fire correctly, do the following (air should be coming out of the exaust port durring firing, but it may not fire, or it may leak excessively with a low velocity, or puff out the barrel)-replace the battery with a fresh ALKALINE 9v. Do NOT use carbon zinc 9v batteries (cheaper $$). They do not have enough current to run the solonoid. - make sure the dwell setting is set to the correct air type (co2 vs hpa)-Make sure your reg is not too low - DO NOT INCREASE pressure if you know it was set at the right level before the leak!!!! You may do more damage. If you have an inline pressure tester that would be ideal. Keep under 200psi, and above 100psi. -Check the nub on the armature for dirt and damage. As well as the tiny o-ring on the inside of the soloniod.- If using a deadlywinds hollowpoint bolt, it may be the bolt sail o-ring. Clean and lube, if it still doesnt work, replace the o-ring: Info by UV Halo- the solenoid may need replacing

*If the air is coming from around the base of the solenoid, replace the o-ring there with a fresh 015/90.

*If the soleniod is leaking CONSTANTLY from the exaust port do the following:-check the armature for damage. Flip over the armature, clean it if its dirty with a qtip (make sure no fibers are left), also clean the inside of the cap near the exaust port, center the coin in the top of the soloniod, then put the cap on it, again making sure the coin doesnt get off centered/unseated. Make sure no space is in between the cap and the bottom of the soloniod when screwing it back in. Air her up, and your good to go.

If it still leaks after that, you can try flipping the coin once more and making sure its centered. you will have to get a new coin for the noid (or new rubber things). If thats the case, i would try modding the current coin you have before you get a new one. Try putting some teflon tape on the nub that faces the top, or put a thin layer of hot glue or something as rubbery. Again, this is a last ditch effort in case you NEED to rreplace the coin/noid.

2. Gun is not firing

If the gun is not firing:-Make sure you have a FRESH ALKALINE 9v. NO CARBON ZINC!!!!! ALKALINE ONLY!!!!-Make sure the 9v wire is not pinched or damaged -make sure no paint water, dirt or oil is on the board -Make sure its turned ON-make sure your dwell setting is on the right air source (hpa vs CO2)-make sure your gun is lubed and clean-check for leaks-with no air in the gun, on full auto, check if the solonoid is operating (not the beeps, see if the solonoid "clicks")- if it doesnt, unscrew the solonoid, undo the clips, and see the pins on the bottom. there may be an intermittent connection. , remove the two screws and clips. on the bottom you will see two pins and brass holes where they go in. Strip a wire, get a thin - less then hair thickness sliver of metal wire, NOT INSULATION. Put a peice of rasor thin wire (a fragment) in each hole to make sure there is a connection between the pins and the holes.

-solonoid or board may need to be replaced if above has been solved and the board does not turn on or function.

For blackheart users!-If your eyes are malfunctioning, it will most likely be the recieving diode thats taken the shitter, OR the harness wire has been pinched and severly damaged. First make sure eyes are on on the board setting. If they dont work its the diode (detector, NOT EMITTER, unless you dont see light)-for the diode, you can easily get one off a halo, or from an electronics store. They are standerd detector diodes. $1-2. Just solder in place. Alternitavely you can get a new harness altogether. Used on this site - $5-10. Can use ion ones!- for the wire harness ion ones will work, not sure if others will work, but you may be able to repair the harness you have...

You dont need a maxflo to operate the gun. Any reg operating between 100-200psi will work. 99% of the regs out there will work. The only one i think wont, is the PMI reg (min500psi). If you can repair the reg, it would be cheaper - take it apart, and replace whats needed.

Also seeing what hole air is coming from will determine what o-ring is blown. the top one is the pressure relief valve, which should only be venting when liquid co-2 gets in the reg, the other two indicate particular o-rings. SHould be easy to figure out.

Its most likely the snap ring. Its the only peice that can fly off. Take apart the reg like the manual i posted says, and take a look at the parts list. Match the parts to what is there, and see if everything is there. Follow the instructions to lube and reassemble.

You probably wont need snap ring pliers to remove the bottom part, cause im guessing thats what flew off. Its a silver peice shaped as a c right at the top around the outside of the hole to adjust velocity.

You can instead wrap a peice of wire around the base such that it prevents the cap from coming off. It should work just as well. But this peice isnt essential in the operation of the reg. For now wrap a peice of metal wire around the base and make sure the cap cannot come off. Then air it up to see if there are any leaks.

If you havent already, completely dissassemble the reg and lube the parts as per the video and the manual. You NEED to do this on a regular basis, just like the bolt. The reg needs to be lubed every 4 months, the bolt, every couple days. of play

You cant get into the velocity adjuster. You would need specialized snap rings. Its not user servicable, and if theres a problem with it, you would need to take it in. In the velocity adjuster theres just one o-ring. That should not be the problem at all unless air is leaking from the velocity adjuster.

Set the dwell to co-2 setting. Consult your manual. For the stock board you need to disconnect the battery and reconnect holding the power button. If it flashes once its dwell is set for co-2, two flashes for hpa.

If your planning to use co-2 you will need to do the above, and a remote line or anti siphon valve would help a lot keeping your marker more efficient.

My vibe is leaking from the bolt and i have tried all of your tips and i changed all of the o rings and lubed it. Any suggestions?
Description: every time i fire, it leaks for 5 seconds and then it stops sometimes but others i have to fire again to stop it.

Check to see where the leak is coming from exactly. If the bolt is closed (forward) and leaking it may be the rear breech o-ring giving you the problem, or a blocked front banjo.

If the bolt is in the starting position (back) stick your finger down the breech while aired up and find out if you can plug the bolt face with your finger. If you cant plug the bolt face because the leaking air gives you resistance, then its coming from the bolt face. If you can plug your finger and feel air coming from AROUND the bolt, then the air is coming from around the bolt. Heres what it means:

Air coming from AROUND the bolt: The front part of the bolt is gouged deeply or the rear breech o-ring has failed and needs replacing.
Air is coming from the bolt face (inside the bolt hole): There is a gouge in the middle portion of the bolt, or both bolt stop orings and/or bolt sail o-ring needs replacing. Its most likely the bolt sail, or inside bolt stop o-rings.

Make sure there is enough lube before you change out any o-rings, and if the marker used to work on the previous chrono settings, do NOT change the velocity.

If your velocity was turned way down on purpose prior to the leak, you may have to increase it gradually. Having a regulator to test the pressure is reccommended as to not blow a soloniod. In any case dont adjust the velocity if you dont have to.

I use a blackheart board ( in the M249 mod :-) ) and an AKA Litre2+ regulator. it is set to 180psi
the problem is that the board's solenoid hisses a lot of air when firing (the gun cycles) but after several shots, the gun makes a "weak cycle" - where it firist only a "puf"
I will use a better battery next time I get to work on it, but do you have any idea what could cause it?

1. thinking about getting a G-1. is the BH board/QEV really necessary? $$$ isnt an issue, just want to know so I can order all at once, etc.
2. is a barrel upgrade necessary? I'm not sure what bore the stock barrel is.

I'm a new owner of a used (obviously) Virtue SP-1. It shoots great and is clean, but I do smell a bit of air coming from the top area of the trigger grip.. is this just exhaust? Or do I need to adjust/fix/replace something?

Also, I have a 14" proto barrel for it.. is this a good barrel? It did break one ball, but it was the cheap walmart stuff that i've had since at least december.

If it "exhausts" only when firing, thats normal. All guns from egos to tippmans exhaust some air. If the ball doesnt shoot anywhere near feild or usable velocity, and more exhaust comes out than usual in a "puff" you need to CHANGE THE BATTERIES WITH A FRESH BRAND NAME 9V battery. The reason why is in my last post here. It can be bolt stick too, so lube up the bolt and bolt stop.

If its a constant leak, then consult my troubleshooter, but i have a feeling in this situation thats not a problem.

Hey i blew a solenoid on my sp1 any idea where to get a new one from in ontario? Thanks

The noid can be fixed. Heck if your near toronto, i can try my hand at fixing it. But if you really want a new one flagswipe in london will be able to help. they service gog markers. Badlands use to as well, give em a shout. They may be able to help.

so what would you recomend for upgrades to the SP-1?I have also been told that HPA is an option for the SP-1 but I should stay with CO2 is there a reason that I was told that?

HPA is your best choice, and possibly your best upgrade. Theres no problem with CO-2 (make sure the dwell is set for this on the board) but i would stay away from full auto or burst. If you really want to use full auto (or use in cold winter weather) with co-2 id strongly suggest using a remote line as it will give the co-2 more time to convert to liquid and wont work the reg as hard.

As for upgrades - the sp-1 really doesnt need any, other than a good barrel. That said If you want something go for it. Its all about preference and what YOU would like. I bought a blackheart and techtl7 bolt for one of my sp-1's but the other i left totally stock. I switch up which one i use from time to time, cause sometimes i prefer the lower ROF of the stock sp-1 since it saves on cash (i use billy ball mode, which the blackheart doesnt have).

Upgrades are a luxury. If you REALLY want it, go for it. If you want an upgraded board, go for the blackheart, i find its better than the virtue (having used both). If you want a upgraded bolt, i prefered the techt l7 over the redz dual o-ring bolt. I love the freak system for a barrel, but you can use just about anything and it will work great.

Hey man, ever since I got my SP1 it's been acting up.. Whenever I would shoot it a couple balls come out maybe every 3 per 10 trigger pulls...I was using c02, but with a remote line... There may be some leaking from the reg..what do you think is the problem? Thanks, Blake

can you help me with next problem: had a half day of play without problems with SP Vibe, i'm using accumulator battery, after half day i turned on marker and LED was lighting constantly, i tried to change fire mode
on 3-burst or full auto but got no changes neither in LED lighting, nor in marker behaviour - still constant lighting and semi-auto. I have cleaned the hole system, changed battery - no changes. What is wrong? Thanks for help in advance.

See if tournament lock is on. Refer to the manual if you don't know what I'm talking about. Is it still firing semi with air in it?
If the answer is no and you unlocked the gun, replace the battery with an energizer or Duracell. New of course.

When I would attempt to fire my gun the solenoid would give out a puff of air and beep, but not fire. So I decided to take it apart. I changed two o-rings and put everything back together. Now when I air the gun up all the air goes out the exhaust port on the solenoid! I think it has to do with the armature not seated properly. The gun will fire now but with a lot of air vent out.

I pm'd you. You really didnt need to replace any o-rings. It is a classic battery problem. Replace with a fresh duracel and it should work perfectly.

You said after you replaced the o-rings it leaked from the exhaust. Is it a constant leak? If its not see above. If it is constant- what probably happened is the weak battery you used tried moving the solenoid, but the current wasnt strong enough to move it correctly. The air pressure over rode the direction of the armature and possibly unseated it. You can try to re seat it yourself, or use a new battery to help it re seat. Either way, a new battery is the final solution and is completely necissary to get it working again.

Feel with your fingers where the air is coming from. Is it coming from inside or outside of the bolt? This will give an indication on what o-rings might be giving you the problem if it is an o-ring problem.

Try unscrewing the reg with the air disconnected and air purged. It should come out no problem then.

If you get the chance to use an Orange Serum bolt do it !!!! It makes vibe/sp1 shoot so nice. Yesterday was the first time I ever shot a vibe and let me tell you,these are some INSANE shooters. Felt bad that I didn't pull out my Cocker.

These are very simple guns to work on. Usually about 98% of the problems are batteries. Just keep it cleaned and lubed and no problems.

Hey blackrain! Thanks for the post. Havent tried the orange bolt, but ive got a pair of techt bolts which are essentially the same design.

If you have the time take a look at my techt bolt thread for the vibe/sp-1/g1/envy/ionxe/extcy. I compare dwell values and pressure with and without the bolt. Maybe you can add some knowledge in there with the orange bolt:http://www.techpb.co...howtopic=143725

2..Hold trigger while Re-connecting battery.led will flash every time this is done..

single flash =

Select fire mode (single shot,three shot burst,full auto)Tapping the power button while the marker is powered on cycles through the firing modes, each indicated by the rate at which the power LED blinks.

double flash =

PSP mode..The marker will fire one shot per trigger pull until the trigger is pulled 3 or more times rapidly in quick succession, at which point it will fire additional shots per trigger pull up to a maximum of 10 shots per second. If the trigger is inactive for a brief time, the marker will revert to the beginning of the sequence, firing one shot per trigger pull

triple flash =

Locked Semi-Automatic mode.. one shot per trigger pull, and cannot be changed without using tools to open the grip.

four flashes =

Billy ball ..limited semi auto fire rate, not allowing players to shoot more then once every two seconds.. (help encourage movement and not to rely on the spray and pray method so much)

also to toggle between HPA use and Co2 use for the sp1 you can disconnect the battery,this time pressing the power button while re connecting the battery again.. one flash is Co2 two flashes is Hpa.

I just got a SP1 from ebay. I fiddled around the velocity screw a bit and then I plugged in my CO2 tank and next thing I know I hear a "pop" and the noid just blew up... The gun is on the way to GOG now.

My question is how do I know how much pressure is going into the reg using CO2 without an inline tester. Or is there a way to turn up the velocity as close to limit as possible without destroy the noid?

I know you guys will tell me to go HPA but I don't have that kind of money and the friends I play with have their own CO2 tank.

I just got a SP1 from ebay. I fiddled around the velocity screw a bit and then I plugged in my CO2 tank and next thing I know I hear a "pop" and the noid just blew up... The gun is on the way to GOG now.

My question is how do I know how much pressure is going into the reg using CO2 without an inline tester. Or is there a way to turn up the velocity as close to limit as possible without destroy the noid?

I know you guys will tell me to go HPA but I don't have that kind of money and the friends I play with have their own CO2 tank.

I'd appreciate any answers!

HPA isn't that expensive and is better for the gun.

If your talking outlaw/farmball and they have a fill station it's differant

Current Set up SP1 with a Ninja 90/45 and Velocity And always rocking a Nerf swordback Up A5 72/30 Pure energy JJ custom barrel

We Killed Humans FOR WE ARE BORG!!!!! RIP In the great PB field in the sky man YOU will BE MISSED!!

My vibe is leaking from the top hole in the regulator and it sounds like a trumpet. I tried CO2 and HPA. I opened the regulator and cleaned and lubed all of the orings as suggested. Any other suggestions? Where can I buy a new reg if that is what I need to do? Thanks for the help.

My vibe is leaking from the top hole in the regulator and it sounds like a trumpet. I tried CO2 and HPA. I opened the regulator and cleaned and lubed all of the orings as suggested. Any other suggestions? Where can I buy a new reg if that is what I need to do? Thanks for the help.

The safety relief valve is doing one of two things:1. Its doing its job protecting the intermals. The piston seals will need to be inspected. Especially the cup seal on it for wear, dirt or grime. It can be flipped to use the other side. 2. The relief valve is faulty, and will need inspection and cleaning of the 006 o-ring at the top of the reg after removing the safety relief assembly with an allen key.

A new reg is not needed. All parts are servicable and will be cheaper and of equal or greater quality than any other regulator. In this case you might just need to clean, or flip the cup seal, or replace the 006 o-ring. All $0-$1 fixes.