Greetings.I found a bunch of info that I gathered from the WO32 forum some of this information has long been lost. Some of this data is still here and some is not. But I compiled it to help me build at one time. Its rather choppy but still contains great stuff. So I am going to post it or attempt to.

here we go.starting with stuff I gathered for driver selection, info from Ziggy and Steve and others and WO32 building problems

WO 32 driver selection

60'e thoughts after all my research before building mine i came to the conclusion the most important factor is a qts of about .35,lower x max flat paper cone

Brad All the drivers that I've liked have had there fs in the mid 20 range. Id like to think that the Peerless 850146 just might work fine. Steve's recomended driver was the Vifa m26wr-09 with a fs of 26 and x-max 6.5mm The peerless has a 22.6 fs and a 9mm x-max. I don't remember Dynaudio being mentioned. If you already have the drivers you're speaking of, then why not try them. It doesn't take much to change them.

I just got my WO32 plans today. The recommended driver is a Vifa M26WR-09-08, available at Madisound for $82.35. The Vifa web site does not list this driver, nor does Parts Express. Specs listed at Madisound:

After talking to the Guy Who Makes The Radials For Decware (he's heard the WO32 with the Radials), I purchased the Parts Express 250w plate amp for my WO32. He said that amp should be plenty since the box design is very efficient. Most people will leave the room because of the volume before the amp or driver clips. If you need more volume, IMO you need a different sub (standard WO or a House Wrecker) or another WO32.

One word of caution: the place in the back of the WO32 where the plate amp is pictured is only 8" between the "legs" of the triangle. If whatever amp you choose is wider than that (mine is 9.5" wide) you will have to modify the WO32 design. The way I'm doing it is to build a 1-2" thick frame (or spacer) to fit between the amp and the main WO32 box. That's the idea at least, I haven't gotten that far in the build.

When I get mine put together (hopefully before the end of the year!) I'll post my impressions of it.

The original VIFA driver from madisound was chosen in part because of the frame design. The wide lip made it easy to clamp the speaker into place between the two baffles. Using a gasket on both sides of the frame allowed the frame to be de-coupled from the cabinet. The soft rather shallow pulp cone and rubber surround was felt to work well against the close proximity of the cabinet side that the woofer fires into. A deep cone could create velocity problems. The softer well damped pulp cone works well against the hard MDF board it fires into. If you are going to use a plastic or metal cone of any kind you must cut a 10 inch diameter disc of 1/4 carpet or felt and glue it to the cabinet side that the woofer fires into.

The DHM-108 that we sell also works well in the WO32. It handles twice the power and has slightly better sensitivity.

XMAX is very important for good soggy bass. The idea behind horns is that they present a mechanical impedance to the woofer at all frequencies. This reduces XMAX by a dramatic amount and at the same time increases efficiency and power handling.

Hope this helps... I'll check in from time to time to hear about your results.

Cheers,

Steve

Hi everyone, greetings fom Australia.

It's taken a while to settle in here but I finally finished the WO32 with the Peerless drivers and the 250W plate amp. I found the process enjoyable but be assured that every effort made towards getting every cut precise, square and accurate will be richly rewarded, and VICE VERSA. There are just too many ways mistakes will come back to haunt you. Needless to say, I had to recut several pieces.

The performance is stunning! I listen to orchestral music, opera, chamber music, jazz, and swing. The bass is so precise and musical, my regular speakers seem 10 feet tall. Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor, with all the pedal tones from the organ, literally shakes the house. HT is scary loud! Grin

I don't have measuring equipment, but I find that the sound coming from the sub is very localised and that placement on one or the other side of the room creates an unbalanced bass sound. I suspect that the crossover in the amp, (currently set at 40Hz), is not very effective and higher frequencies are coming through. One possible solution might be an additional low pass filter. Or else I'll position it centrally. I could build another WO32, but I have to save my pennies for new speakers, (horn loaded Fostex 206E), and then I've got to try that Zen amp.

DaveS

Welcome to the forum, and Happy New Year!

I just finally looked at the specs for the DHM108b speaker and I would say you can do better than that speaker in the WO32 cabinet: it would work but would work better in a WO, Deathbox, or HW. The ideal characteristics of a driver for the WO32 are a light moderately stiff cone (paper is the best balance), low X-max (3-6mm), Qts around the .3 range, a Fs in the mid 20's, and a shallow cone.

The paper cone with limited travel and close to the closed end of the "horn" will couple most effectively with the limited air space in that part of the box. A cone that is set back from the lip of the flange and/or one with a deep cone design will be less effective in transfering the motion of the driver to the air.

Rounding of the edges of the clamp that holds the driver also help smooth out the motion of the air in this critical high-pressure area. The paper cone damps resonance better in this place than a harder surface (as you found out!) and is very light (light = fast moving).

Any driver that's close to the original Vifa specs (see page one of this thread), and meets the above criteria, will work beautifully in a WO32. I just watched the SE version of Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers using my WO32 as the LFE sub and it had me grinning like a fool!

Hope this helps! John M

John F says I use car amps with a 12V transformer (12amps or higher depending if you want to drive is hard for long periods) to power it for all of my subs. I've yet to see a good plate amp, but good car amps are fairly easy to find and cheaper. Put the Zen signal into the high input and you are set. Be sure that the sub amp is bridgeable and has low pass filtering and adjustable crossover. Some even have phase adjustment. Plate amps are a ripoff IMHO.

TerryI built a WO cabinet and it was not easy, I half though about make a small change and turning into basically a WO32 type encloser. I have it all done and dry fit, and screwed together with sheet rock screws. I used MDF, my favorite speaker building material. All I have to do is make the holes in my speaker baffles and mount them in the cabinets. I have a 250 watt per channel Hafler amp I am going to test it out on. The way I built this cabinet it will fit 10" or 12" speakers. On recomendation use 1/2" straight router bits, those 1/4" ones burn out way to fast and the 1/2" last for what seems like forever. I don't use a jig, I use a compass to mark it out and cut it out free hand. I do a pretty good job I would say. I do hit the inside of the cut out with some sand paper for about 5 minutes to get some small irregularities out. I am taking two 10" drivers out of my Klipsch KLF-20's to test this cabinet design out on. If it works to my liking, I am going to build a much bigger one for 15" or 18" drivers. I know I am a bit adventurous, but I have gotten quite a bit of speaker building experience over the last couple of years. This will make my fifth cabinet design, perhaps my sixth.

Anyway take a day off on a weekend here in the next couple of months and finish yours. I would really like to know what your experience is. I have worked in HVAC for years, so I know metal bending as well. I do like wood though, I find that I have to make a lot of jigs to do much of what I do. \ You should see me make jigs to guide wood through my jointer to make the weird angles of these boxes. I think Steve could have a pretty good business selling kits to glue and fit together. Oh another thing I did, and I learned to do in making speaker cabinets. I take all the boards that are sandwiched between the two big sides, and screw them together, in one long triple thick board, and run them through the jointer to make them all exactly the same width. This makes life a lot easier in puttting it all together. Thus far I would say I have eight hours into this cabinet with about an hour left to finish it. I took my time as enjoyed it, it was fun figuring it out an being inventive. I love working in my wood shop for hours on end by myself, kind of puts life in perspective.

John mI ran all my boards through my table saw to get the height the same. Not as nice as a jointer, but it's a good table saw (Rigid) with a new blade. .I finally finished main assembly of my WO32! I'm now working on "secondary assembly": modifying the box to fit my plate amp. I've attached a second .75" MDF panel to the back of the box and am fitting a .75" birch ply panel on top of THAT to give the transformer and caps of my plate amp enough room to fit in the base triangle. I should have bought a smaller amp! To complicate things further (but it will look nicer when it's done) I've fitted additional .75" birch ply panels to the sides and front to match the back. The ply will be stained and the inside painted black. Yeah, it's overkill, but I have NO experience with veneers, the ply was available, and it will cover up some of my joinery mistakes. Not sure what to do about a lid, but whatever it I do this box will be HEAVY! I've taken a few pictures during assembly, will post them all when I get done. Hmm, at the rate I'm going maybe I should post them sooner. Gotta wrangle the pictures "in my spare time." Yeah, that's the ticket....

Brad I just discovered this Vifa driver at Madisound that looks killer!!! Not sure it was around back then. Check out them specs... 93db and Fs21 . Hoo doggy! Vifa M30WO-49-08 Even though I've given up building this any time soon, I noticed this new driver on the PE website and the spec's are almost identical to the one Steve was recommending *but* the efficiency is MUCH higher. I would think it would work awesome! If you try it, please report results The low x-max would probably work good to since there's not much room for excursion in this cabinet design... DAVIS 25SCA10W 10" CARBON FIBER WOOFER http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=2 97-580 Specifications:*Power handling: 80 watts RMS/120 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Le: .53 mH *Znom: 6 ohms *Re: 5.96 ohms *Frequency range: 35-1,500 Hz *Fs: 28 Hz *SPL: 92 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 3.85 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.23 *Qes: .39 *Qts: .33 *Xmax: 4 mm *Dimensions: A: 11" by 12-5/8" B: 9-3/4" C: 3-3/4".

JohnDoesn't look too bad. The Peerless drivers I'm using are less efficient but have a lower fs and seem to be flat a little longer (lower) than the Davis drivers. The Davis drivers would probably work great, and I think they might be a little more durable than my Peerless. Aside from the max SPL test I did recently, I don't push my drivers hard at all, and I like their very low frequency extension. They mate up pretty well with my RL-2's (which don't get extremely loud anyway). No if I was wanting a driver for a nice HT setup, the Davis drivers might be just the ticket! The price is pretty good too, in comparison to other sub drivers out there.I finally finished main assembly of my WO32! I'm now working on "secondary assembly": modifying the box to fit my plate amp. I've attached a second .75" MDF panel to the back of the box and am fitting a .75" birch ply panel on top of THAT to give the transformer and caps of my plate amp enough room to fit in the base triangle. I should have bought a smaller amp! To complicate things further (but it will look nicer when it's done) I've fitted additional .75" birch ply panels to the sides and front to match the back. The ply will be stained and the inside painted black. Yeah, it's overkill, but I have NO experience with veneers, the ply was available, and it will cover up some of my joinery mistakes. Not sure what to do about a lid, but whatever it I do this box will be HEAVY! I've taken a few pictures during assembly, will post them all when I get done. Hmm, at the rate I'm going maybe I should post them sooner. Gotta wrangle the pictures "in my spare time." Yeah, that's the ticket....

BradI don't think the max SPL is the main advantage of this, or other, high efficiency bass driver. It's that the moving mass of the driver is usually low, and the driver is faster moving, coupled usually with a low x-max. This is better (in theory) for mating to other high efficiency main speakers - lowther, fostex, etc. Fast bass is more important IMO (for music, not HT) than low bass, especially when using these types of speakers. That's why Ed Schilling(www.thehornshoppe.com) uses a 6" driver in his "bass augmenter

JohnMI'll take fast AND low if I can get it! I will NOT compromise on the quality, however. For me quality does not mean quantity: the bass must be fast, clean, low, and ZERO audible distortion. It must mate so well with my RL-2's that I only notice it when I turn the sub OFF. In short, everything the WO32 was meant to be. In my current setup it's just convenient to use my WO32 with my HT along with my Integrated/RL-2's. I will eventually be separating the two systems. The frequency list you gave for the Davis drivers looks to be either IB or a sealed box (the roll off is very gentle). Either way, only a 7 dB difference between 20Hz and 100Hz! That's VERY impressive! I can't remember right now if the ammount of change in the phase would be problematic or not, I've been up for 20 hours. "Small" bass drivers can be just as powerful as the more traditional large ones if used in the correct box. There is a thread on the car audio board talking about a pair of 6x9's in T-Line box that have similar output qualities to a pair of 12" drivers. Shows what a good box will get ya! Speaking of a good box, while the WO32 is a good design it is still essentially a vented enclosure. I wonder if a more straightforward vented box would be as effective? It certainly would be easier to build! Of course a true bass horn would be the best, but it would be (I think) a lot bigger than the WO32. Hmmm, maybe the WO32 is the best balance between a simple vented box and a complex bass horn? Did I just answer my own question?

Dave S Thanks for the reply, it looks like we'll be building the same exact unit. I ordered the same amp you did as well as the Peerless speakers.Will you be configuring the amp for the bass boost below 30Hz? I won't be building mine for several months, so I'll be curious to hear how your project progresses. Keep us posted.

JohnMI'm going to stick with the non-boost configuration for now and hear how it does. I don't want to mod the amp if I don't have to (lazy). I'll play with room placement and perhaps an extention to the final flare of the horn before doing anything to the electronics. I'm more comfortable working on mechanical systems than electronic. Didn't have a chance to work on it this week, maybe next week will be better (or not). Being the Holidays, I might not have as much time to work on it as I would like. Updates as they occur.

Brad SIt's taken a while to settle in here but I finally finished the WO32 with the Peerless drivers and the 250W plate amp. I found the process enjoyable but be assured that every effort made towards getting every cut precise, square and accurate will be richly rewarded, and VICE VERSA. There are just too many ways mistakes will come back to haunt you. Needless to say, I had to recut several pieces. The performance is stunning! I listen to orchestral music, opera, chamber music, jazz, and swing. The bass is so precise and musical, my regular speakers seem 10 feet tall. Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D minor, with all the pedal tones from the organ, literally shakes the house. HT is scary loud! I don't have measuring equipment, but I find that the sound coming from the sub is very localised and that placement on one or the other side of the room creates an unbalanced bass sound. I suspect that the crossover in the amp, (currently set at 40Hz), is not very effective and higher frequencies are coming through. One possible solution might be an additional low pass filter. Or else I'll position it centrally. I could build another WO32, but I have to save my pennies for new speakers, (horn loaded Fostex 206E), and then I've got to try that Zen amp.

JohnMThe WO32 is pretty amazing isn't it? If you used the 250W amp from Parts Express the built-in crossover DOES leave a lot to be desired! Even with mine at it's lowest frequency setting I could still hear test signals above 3000 Hz coming from the sub. I'm using the high-level inputs to the plate amp, and I haven't been able to figure out what impedence to use to calculate a filter. If you use the low-pass inputs there are some in-line 2nd order filters on the market that will fit the job. Welcome to the WO32 club!

JOHNMI just finally looked at the specs for the DHM108b speaker and I would say you can do better than that speaker in the WO32 cabinet: it would work but would work better in a WO, Deathbox, or HW. The ideal characteristics of a driver for the WO32 are a light moderately stiff cone (paper is the best balance), low X-max (3-6mm), Qts around the .3 range, a Fs in the mid 20's, and a shallow cone. The paper cone with limited travel and close to the closed end of the "horn" will couple most effectively with the limited air space in that part of the box. A cone that is set back from the lip of the flange and/or one with a deep cone design will be less effective in transfering the motion of the driver to the air. Rounding of the edges of the clamp that holds the driver also help smooth out the motion of the air in this critical high-pressure area. The paper cone damps resonance better in this place than a harder surface (as you found out!) and is very light (light = fast moving). Any driver that's close to the original Vifa specs (see page one of this thread), and meets the above criteria, will work beautifully in a WO32. I just watched the SE version of Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers using my WO32 as the LFE sub and it had me grinning like a fool!

CONSTRUCTION DETAILSHi everyone, I finally got started on the WO32. I have got some questions about a few of the finer details.

1. Part F - the small brace to reduce baffle flexing. From the drawing you cannot tell at what height this should be positioned but I would logically put it half way between top and bottom panels as this is going to give the most effective baffle flexing reduction. Am I right about this position?

2. Part I - the "velocity disc". This is of 8" diameter but all the other panels are obviously 12" high. This means there will be a 2" gap top and bottom. Does anyone have any idea about how the panel which the velocity disc butts up against should be finished where there is this gap? Does it need to be rounded or left sharp?

3. Part I - the "velocity disc". On the page which details this velocity disc there is one diagram which says "end view" and "soften edge". Seeing as the velocity disc is bevelled to a 45 degree angle, I cannot for the life of me work out what this "soften edge" drawing is referring to!

2.2. generally i believe, and practice, sanding all sharp edges to a softer detail where fast moveing air is concerned,just place the disk where it seems logical (useing plans and pictures on this site as reference) and soften edges with a little sandpaper,

the wo32 is unbelieveable,use a good x over below 90hz and experiment with 'placement' before you pass wrong judjement.

Studying the notes this morning a thought has just occurred to me:

The diagram which says "soften edge" could be referring to the panel which butts up against the velocity disc, specifying that the overhanging 2" top and bottom are sanded down and "softened".

If this is correct it now makes sense to me - all the pieces fall into place!

i dont have the plans in front of me right now but i think piece F is a small flat piece shaped kindof like half a D placed HORIZONTALY - half way up the pannel,it just stops the pannels flexing and allows the air to pass it by being sharp at one end!

l l l F l l -- l l l l l -------------------------------------------

build it its amazing!thanks rat ,ill take a select in full and final. all the pannels are 12 deep and run from bottom to top/carpet(depending on if you use a lid or not) the velocity disk is a 9( if i remember rightly) inch disk with rounded / champherd edges that sits half way up the pannel it sits on? panel d is full depth with panel e half way up to diffuse back wave. keep asking till you understand personally i think most people buy a ready made wo32,or they built one but it sounded c r a p so they cant tell you what goes where cos they built it wrong. thats why they cant answer your questions mine sounds killer on everything. yours will to ...keep asking

Glad you liked the site. The primary purpose is for other builders to compare notes on the diy projects. Thanks for the compliment.

I wish that I had taken high resolution close up photo's of the parts in question. As it is said, a picture is worth a thousand words! Anyway, I think that I can once and for all clarify the distinction of part "F" and also sum up the mystery behind the edge blending behind the velocity discs.

Follow this simple procedure and this will become obvious to you as a coherent visual perspective of part "F".

Get out your full size plans and locate the outline for part "F".

Next: place a sheet of white paper over that section and carefully trace the outline of the blueprint onto the paper so that you capture it's entire shape and blend lines.

Try to keep the dimension as exact as possible to the drawing.

If the physical size is any other than that of the proposed part, it will not fit, therefore rendering it as useless in it's sole purpose. This part is important and it must NOT be deleted or altered. This piece is 1 of 2 brace parts which control flexing within EACH horn flare. If you examine the foremost "knife-edge" corner between the outer perimeter and the driver baffle (narrow end of horn flare) you will notice a small corner piece cut to sandwich and stiffen that junction.

Next: Cut the duplicated "copy" out that was traced and be sure that it matches the original drawing dimensions. DO NOT cut the inner line as that is merely a reference for the rounded edge of which must be shaped at a 45 degree angle. Imagine looking at an exaggerated knife blade edge and realize that in order to be sharp, the blade is essentially beveled to produce that sharp edge. Does that make sense?

Now, place the cut out traced section onto a piece of 3/4" MDF and retrace the outline onto it. you should be showing the outer curved line as well as the inner "parallel" line onto your MDF.

Next: Cut out the part around the trace lines (outer only). After the cut is made, you should still be showing the inner trace line on the part (approximately 1/4" from the outer rounded edge which you just cut). This line is only visible as a pattern to gauge how far that the bevel is angled back from the bottom of the part to the top.

Next: Bevel the rounded edge ONLY! Shape and sand it untill it blends even and smooth.

When you are finished, the part should have three sides squarely flush with only the forward edge rounded off to a 45 degree bevel. The purpose of this beveled edge is to reduce turbulent airflow within the flare. Remember the braces are only 3/4" thick and will seat flush between the walls and the top section of the cabinet. It is merely a little wedge similar to a door stop which adds extra strength to the adjoining parts. Place the finished part over the original blueprint section from which it was traced. If it matches, it is a success. Finally, test fit it within the actual horn flare to check for conformity. As far as the blending of the rear plate behind the velocity discs is concerned, If I recall, the small supplemental drawing detail shows this area to be rounded out and blended to maintain efficient airflow with minimal turbulence. Steve, being the designer, would best clarify this for you. However, you see what I did and the results are spectacular! This subwoofer will produce frequencies so low that your seat and body will shake with intensity. With enough amplifier power, I believe that things might levitate???

Q I might be able to deal with all the strange angles.I might even be able to build a "velocity disc".

But I can't even begin to imagine what section F is meant to look like. There is no detail shown on the plans and the description is written in some sort of alien code (although it does say that it's very important).I've looked back on previous posts, and although this question has been asked before, I can't find an answer.I've also looked at as many photos as I can find ( including the great pictures from Mr Chips), but alas I'm none the wiser.

Can anyone tell or better still show me what section F is meant to look like please ?

P.S. Is section E meant to be distorted like that ?

A i dont have the plans in front of me right now but i think piece F is a small flat piece shaped kindof like half a D placed HORIZONTALY - half way up the pannel,it just stops the pannels flexing and allows the air to pass it by being sharp at one end!

l l l F l l -- l l l l l -------------------------------------------

build it its amazing!

Q The panel I'm confused about is in the first section of the horn. just looked at my plans,we are talking about piece F?its a small piece, shaped like on the full sized plans, positioned as i showed you.its just a brace to stop the pannels flexing. Thank you 60,I can visualise it now...that's panel F sorted.

Do you (or anyone else who's reading this) know if panel E is meant to have its axis offset, as it's shown in the plans ?

And one other question, should panel M stick out above and below the velocity disc, as shown on the plans, or should it be cut flush, as shown in the picture in the WO32 home page (the picture of the red wood coloured box with the glass top) ?

rat,panel e looks square on my plan(apart from the obcious curve)? and 90 degrees?panel m? cant see that one ?but i only have my full size plans in front of me.i will look for the smaller ones. Sorry, that was stupid of me, panel M is a designation I drew on my plans to aid myself. I meant the unnamed panel that makes up the inner wall of the second horn section ( it follows panel A)

As for panel E, if I measure on my plans, from the axis to the edges the two edges are different lenghts.

rat ,if you have the full scale plans i would just place your pannels on top and get as close as you can,thats what i did,my box is not perfect,some of the cuts were a bit off so i filled em with liquid nails,and sanded as nessesary.i tried to make the lengths and thicknesses and angles as close as i could,it works really well.its the desighn that makes the thing so good,not your carpentry skills,just use lots of glue and screws and it will work!.

I appreciate all your advice 60, you've been of great help.Now I'm starting to wonder why you are the only person who's built one of these things that seems willing to share their knowledge. I would still like to know if the unnamed panel that makes up the inner wall of the second section of the horn, should stick out above and below the velocity disc. Or be cut flush, as shown in the picture on the WO32 home page?And if panel "E" should have its axis offset as described in my previous post?Surely someone must be reading this that knows exactly what I'm talking about, and can give me a definative answer.60 can't be expected to do all the work here (or maybe Decware should put him on the payroll).

thanks rat ,ill take a select in full and final.all the pannels are 12 deep and run from bottom to top/carpet(depending on if you use a lid or not)the velocity disk is a 9( if i remember rightly) inch disk with rounded / champherd edges that sits half way up the pannel it sits on?panel d is full depth with panel e half way up to diffuse back wave.keep asking till you understand Grinpersonally i think most people buy a ready made wo32,or they built one but it sounded c r a p so they cant tell you what goes where cos they built it wrong. thats why they cant answer your questionsmine sounds killer on everything. Winkyours will to ...keep asking

es ,yes ,and yes.i have a lid on mine (wood not glass) screwed down tight with a fat seal.and yes i have the opening faceing down towards the floor.no doubt about it,(i have tried it every way) it sounds WWAAAYYYYYYYYYY lower faceing the floorHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuh?.i dont understand it?? john f explained it in a recent thread but i still dont really understand why it sounds so much deeper when positioned that way?i have mine coverd with a blanket kinda thing with a light on top(disguised as a table Cool)

I am hoping that this close up detail view will help to clarify what part "F" is to resemble as well as the velocity discs & the two small corner "anti flex" braces which mount in the narrowest region of the horn flares. The two smaller wedge looking items opposing each other (fwd of the velocity discs) are parts "F". Requires 1 each side. You can not see them in my assembled photo's due to the depth of insertion, however, they are installed and are too critical to delete.

Glad you liked the site. The primary purpose is for other builders to compare notes on the diy projects. Thanks for the compliment.

I wish that I had taken high resolution close up photo's of the parts in question. As it is said, a picture is worth a thousand words! Anyway, I think that I can once and for all clarify the distinction of part "F" and also sum up the mystery behind the edge blending behind the velocity discs.

Follow this simple procedure and this will become obvious to you as a coherent visual perspective of part "F".

Get out your full size plans and locate the outline for part "F".

Next: place a sheet of white paper over that section and carefully trace the outline of the blueprint onto the paper so that you capture it's entire shape and blend lines.

Try to keep the dimension as exact as possible to the drawing.

If the physical size is any other than that of the proposed part, it will not fit, therefore rendering it as useless in it's sole purpose. This part is important and it must NOT be deleted or altered. This piece is 1 of 2 brace parts which control flexing within EACH horn flare. If you examine the foremost "knife-edge" corner between the outer perimeter and the driver baffle (narrow end of horn flare) you will notice a small corner piece cut to sandwich and stiffen that junction.

Next: Cut the duplicated "copy" out that was traced and be sure that it matches the original drawing dimensions. DO NOT cut the inner line as that is merely a reference for the rounded edge of which must be shaped at a 45 degree angle.Imagine looking at an exaggerated knife blade edge and realize that in order to be sharp, the blade is essentially beveled to produce that sharp edge. Does that make sense?

Now, place the cut out traced section onto a piece of 3/4" MDF and retrace the outline onto it. you should be showing the outer curved line as well as the inner "parallel" line onto your MDF.

Next: Cut out the part around the trace lines (outer only). After the cut is made, you should still be showing the inner trace line on the part (approximately 1/4" from the outer rounded edge which you just cut). This line is only visible as a pattern to gauge how far that the bevel is angled back from the bottom of the part to the top.

This is the last stuff I have.. I just realized that some of it may have been already said but it was just easier to just paste it than reread the whole thing. I may go through it later to sort through the repeated junk.

Next: Bevel the rounded edge ONLY! Shape and sand it untill it blends even and smooth.

When you are finished, the part should have three sides squarely flush with only the forward edge rounded off to a 45 degree bevel. The purpose of this beveled edge is to reduce turbulent airflow within the flare. Remember the braces are only 3/4" thick and will seat flush between the walls and the top section of the cabinet. It is merely a little wedge similar to a door stop which adds extra strength to the adjoining parts.

Place the finished part over the original blueprint section from which it was traced. If it matches, it is a success.

Finally, test fit it within the actual horn flare to check for conformity.

As far as the blending of the rear plate behind the velocity discs is concerned, If I recall, the small supplemental drawing detail shows this area to be rounded out and blended to maintain efficient airflow with minimal turbulence. Steve, being the designer, would best clarify this for you. However, you see what I did and the results are spectacular! This subwoofer will produce frequencies so low that your seat and body will shake with intensity. With enough amplifier power, I believe that things might levitate???

Good luck.

Good explanation RFZ,

I feel confident that I can build this project now (in fact I'm almost finished).At the risk of stretching the friendship, there's just one other thing I don't understand......

The velocity disc is shown on the full size plans as having a radius of over 6 inches, but on the supplement it states it's radius is only 4 inches.I believe the supplement is correct, but if I cut it for a 4 inch radius, it won't be the same as the full size plans.If it's radius was over 6 inches it wouldn't fit in the box

Cheers.

Hi everyone,

I finally got started on the WO32. I have got some questions about a few of the finer details.

1. Part F - the small brace to reduce baffle flexing. From the drawing you cannot tell at what height this should be positioned but I would logically put it half way between top and bottom panels as this is going to give the most effective baffle flexing reduction. Am I right about this position?

2. Part I - the "velocity disc". This is of 8" diameter but all the other panels are obviously 12" high. This means there will be a 2" gap top and bottom. Does anyone have any idea about how the panel which the velocity disc butts up against should be finished where there is this gap? Does it need to be rounded or left sharp?

3. Part I - the "velocity disc". On the page which details this velocity disc there is one diagram which says "end view" and "soften edge". Seeing as the velocity disc is bevelled to a 45 degree angle, I cannot for the life of me work out what this "soften edge" drawing is referring to!

Your help with any of these questions would be very gratefully received!

John B

A i have built 2 i know the confusion

1.yes half way i guessed and it seems 2 work

2.yes theres a gap 2" top and bottom

2.2. generally i believe, and practice, sanding all sharp edges to a softer detail where fast moveing air is concerned,just place the disk where it seems logical (useing plans and pictures on this site as reference) and soften edges with a little sandpaper,

the wo32 is unbelieveable,use a good x over below 90hz and experiment with 'placement' before you pass wrong judjement.

Studying the notes this morning a thought has just occurred to me:

The diagram which says "soften edge" could be referring to the panel which butts up against the velocity disc, specifying that the overhanging 2" top and bottom are sanded down and "softened".

If this is correct it now makes sense to me - all the pieces fall into place!