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Altamura Style Bread Revisited

Altamura Style Bread Revisited

Some time ago, I attempted many times to follow Franko in making a high percentage durum loaf with low hydration and shaped by a simple fold - in fact an Altamura style bread. I was never altogether satisfied with my progress, and finally set it aside and focused on other baking. While I stopped trying to make an Altamura style loaf, that doesn't mean I stopped baking with durum - in fact my regular rotation (that sounds more formal than it is) includes medium percentage durum loaves like Hamelman's Semolina (p. 171 of Bread) and Sylvia's pugliese. I think this regular baking has made me more comfortable with durum, and I stopped looking at it as a crazed and evil beast that required a lot of fuss and nonsense to get right. That more relaxed attitude led me to throw together a loaf that I realized just in time for shaping had many of the characteristics of the Altamura style bread that I had tried so hard to master. So I folded and proofed and baked and voila, the best Altamura style loaf that I've yet managed to produce. There's a lesson in here somewhere but I'm not entirely sure what it is.

I used an entirely passive method of dough development. First I fed my regular starter with durum flour and water, and immediately refrigerated it for around 20 hours. Then I mixed all ingredients until dough formed a shaggy mass for a couple minutes only, and then refrigerated for 24 hours. Then I let warm on counter for around four hours, then pressed out slightly (hardly at all) folded over and proofed for around 50 minutes, then baked for 20 minutes with steam and 35 minutes without at 400F. I had no idea when I cut into it what to expect, but here's what I got:

Altogether a happy result from a casual approach mostly forced by time constraints. And yes it's tasty - the good taste of durum shines through.

Comments

Hey David, I guess there was some logic to it. I was thinking about mwilson's comments about passive dough development, but you don't want a high percentage durum dough sitting out at room temperature for too long. And then there's Josh's approach to sourdough where you refrigerate right after mixing. And not much time to fuss over bread over the last few weeks. So I guess that's what went into it. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda

Wonderful loaf, Varda! Great crust colour and I particularly like the yellow tint of the crumb. It looks delicious. I'm always fascinated by the brave bakers who follow their intuition and gut-feeling when it comes to developing dough, winging things on the fly and still end up with great bread. That's when you really master the craft, and your results speak for themselves, Varda!

Really nice looking loaf Varda!. I was just looking at your previous Altamura posting yesterday, having stumbled into Golden Temple Atta Flour at an international food store yesterday, wondering what had been posted here about its use. Sure enough, there was your report. I assume your didn't use Golden Temple here, since this one is so delightfully yellow.

Hi Tom, No I didn't use golden temple here. I have been ordering durum flour from King Arthur - expensive but so good. I wish I had another source for fancy durum, but until then... Thanks so much for commenting. -Varda

I think you must have tapped into a little baking Zen...or something Varda, the loaf looks terrific and the crumb is outstanding! Moving on from a problem I often find is a good strategy for eventually solving it, besides this is supposed to be fun, not aggravating. Nice baking!

I just love what you did with your Durum flour...made it work for you beautifully! Nice priests hat shaping, lovely crumb and the flavor sounds so delicious. Oh yes, the great color crust and crumb! You have 'whipped up' a lovely loaf..looks like a keeper.

This should be the easiest shaping ever, as all you have to do is fold the dough over, but I've never gotten it to work before. I have no idea why it did this time. I will have to make this again. I had taken one slice to photograph the crumb - then my kids stopped by for Mother's Day and suddenly it was gone. I'm glad I got the photo. Thanks so much for your comments. -Varda

Varda, I give my first shot at 100% durum bread today. I wanted to try it a long time ago, but your older posts kind of scared me. Yesterday night I read a simple formula on panis nostrum (from Sicilia) and decided to make right away. I made two batards at 76% hydration, with 100% durum starter, no comercial yeast. The dough was wonderful to work with, I'm waiting to proof while I write this. I'll be very happy if the crumb will be similar to yours, which is very atractive and pretty. I'm glad for you, you could move on to another project now. :)

Hi Nico, You could try this. The seed starter I used was left over from baking the day before, so was in great shape which is why I used a lot, and only fed it once, and trusted it to mature in the refrigerator. So you might have to adjust based on the state of your starter. But I am very encouraged with the strategy of a long ferment in the refrigerator for high % durum, as it seems to solve some persistent problems I have had with it. Now I have to do a search on pane di Matera. Thanks so much for commenting. -Varda

Varda now that i 150% trust your recipes and methods, and now that i just received premium quality durum flour that i had used in the past, i will defintely give this bread a go. I like the color of the crumb. I'm thinking how it would look and taste like if sesame and black sesame is added to it....hmmm

I was kind of worried about that first shot since half of it is "missing" so I'm glad you think the photos are good. "...another state of mind..." Yes indeed - the state of mind past geekiness which is necessary as well, with no Grandma to show me how it's done. -Varda

Great pics and tale, Varda! And the results of your intuiting look - and I imagine tasted - pretty gosh-durned goood.

Like many, I suspect, I've developed a process in SD bread making that has become routine and comfortable over the years. It's nice to be in a rhythm, but there is always that lurking danger of complacency. Hence, lately I've been drawn to processes that deviate from my usual, such as David's and Syd's versions of SF SD. Your Altamura-style durum post is opportune, given my current mode of experimentation. Thanks!

Hi Ross, It's always a good idea to mix it up. My family will totally ignore beautiful loaves if I've made the same thing too often. Doesn't matter how good it is. Good luck with your efforts, and thanks for commenting. -Varda

Beautiful, Varda!
You seem to be getting well accustomed to baking with durum flour. You did a fine job, given your time constrains! The crust looks very attractive, and the crumb is spot on. Very nice!!

I made this bread over the weekend following the recipe closely except for the salt, which I increased to 15 g as in Leader's recipe. As for the timelines, I ended up exceeding all of Varda's times some and, in hindsight, should have increased them even more, for my starter and conditions. I made two loaves, one (2/3) to take as a hostess gift later in the week and a smaller one (1/3) for myself. When I put the first one in the oven (w. stone and steam), I totally forgot the little guy which stayed on the counter another 50 minutes until I finally found and rescued it. In the end, the large loaf was slightly underrisen but far from a pancake and the little guy, which got a lot more oven spring, turned out very puffy and cute. The taste keeps evolving with time but is always delicious. It's got a mild sourness that seems to go well with the indescribable taste of the semolina. I just ate a piece at my desk at work and so missed not having some extra-virgin olive oil to dip it in! I'll have to do better tomorrow.

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