It’s Nantucket by Way of Paris—Zac Posen’s New Vision at Brooks Brothers

Vogue may earn compensation on these sales through affiliate programs.

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

Expand

Photo: Courtesy of Brooks Brothers

See more photos of:

The last thing you’d expect to see walking into a Zac Posen–designed presentation just might be loose, silken separates in a tropical print. But lo and behold, at Posen’s debut outing as the creative director of Brooks Brothers, there they were, in an eye-popping coral and azure combo. As the model shifted her weight slouchily and sipped her water through a straw—the modus operandi for models at these fashion presentations—you couldn’t help but think she looked ineffably cool. Beside her were similarly crisp and punchy ensembles: a multi-striped boatneck top with a matching button-front skirt, a pale green Modish suit, a Chinese-inspired linen jacket, and pants in a shade of sky so fair it read as denim from afar.

The new emphasis on easy luxury is a result of what Posen calls a “growing up.” “Through the process of working with Brooks Brothers, my secondary line, and now into my collection, as you’ll see in a few days, there’s a sense and need for ease, especially as a fashion message to women,” Posen says. “She doesn’t have to be the loudest person in the room. It’s what’s inside that matters.”

Even so, taking on America’s oldest clothing house with a global reach is no easy process. As Posen explains, Brooks Brothers produces about 16 deliveries a year of around 70 styles each, making it the largest collection on which Posen has put his stamp yet. That’s where part two of his growing up comes into play. “How do you design actual clothing that is actually going to retail and sell, not just branding and image?” he asks, quickly offering his solution: “Now, I wake up and I watch the market every day. I see how weather moves. In a way, that’s part of the future.”

Look more closely at the pieces shown and you could still find a few of Posen’s femme fatale finishes snuck in. Paris accessory designer Yaz Bukey worked with Posen on the shoes and bags, whose woven texture was inspired by Brooks Brothers’s heritage knits, and the French print designer Pierre Marie collaborated on the patterns in the collection. The most notable Posen flourish, however, was tucked in the back of the presentation in the form of a red cocktail dress that came with corset boning. With a woven bucket hat and sandals, it read Nantucket for sure, but by way of Mr. Posen’s posh atelier.