Unfortunately, there is no chart that correlates x dimensions (thermal mass) to residual temperature. All ovens and environments are different, YMMV.

There was a thread last year that asked owners to report their oven's performance over the two or three days following initial firing. My takeaway was that while the best-insulated ovens (regardless of dome mass) retained heat the longest, the biggest contributor to heat loss was conduction through the integrated entryway and chimney.
John

Your interpretation is I think pretty much what I was trying to convey. A lighter oven will clear just a little faster. A heavier oven will (assuming equal or better insulation) be warmer longer. And as you suggest, a warm oven can be "recharged" with a smallish fire but it still takes a while for heat migration through refractory is not exactly "fast". (The Pompeii or refractory ovens should be at pizza temp in 45 min to an hour, but the refractory won't really be "loaded" for about an hour and a half to two hours. An Alan Scott/barrel vault oven which is about twice as thick needs about three to four hours to fully heat load. You will probably still need about a half hour to 45 min to recharge the oven and another hour or so to equalize, i.e. have the temperature stabilize in the oven and in the refractory.)

There is no ideal, universal oven for all purposes. Most of the Italian style ovens seem reasonably close in performance and behaviour and are versatile. I think you are pretty safe going either way.

Despite the stories of hot ovens after several days, I doubt you should plan to bake/roast on day two unless you add mass. And...part of why I used the example I did...if you roast on day one you will have a lot less heat left to roast with on day two - assuming your oven has that capability.

Thanks for all of the input folks. I will look for that thread with data from other builders.

I have contempalted a small thermal break between the inner and outer arch bit have not quite wrapped my head around exactly what I want to do. Even a mortar joint thickness sealed with RTV instead of mortar may provide a fairly significant thermal break and prevent the insulation from being exposed. Another idea would be to use a 1" thick refractory insulation brick layer between the inner and outer arch. I don't think I would go as far as isolating the floor bricks between inner and outer, as they are not in great thermal contact to begin with.

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