But let's add two more words to describe Chicago for tourists: darn expensive.

On Friday, admission to the Art Institute of Chicago jumped to $23 for out-of-state visitors. In the past month, a host of other price hikes that affect tourists have also taken effect: Museum of Science and Industry ticket prices rose. The Chicago Transit Authority hiked the price of passes to ride the L and city buses. Parking prices downtown jumped. Even the toll on the Chicago Skyway went up.

Because so many people from Michigan have relatives in Chicago, many think nothing of driving there for a day or weekend. But tourists need to know that things are changing. Chicago may feel like a home away from home to Michiganders, but it has 2.7 million residents and 43.6 million visitors a year. It doesn't need to offer constant cut-rate attractions. That's the power of a popular city.

Chicago has the highest tax burden for travelers in the nation, even higher than New York and Boston, the Global Business Travel Association reported last fall, when it compared cities' taxes on hotel rooms, car rental and meals.

So how can you visit without going broke?

Visit in winter.

Hotel prices chill out

With more than 33,000 hotel rooms in the downtown district and an occupancy rate of only 50% in January and 52% in February, Chicago hotel prices in winter are about half of what they are in the summer and fall, when occupancy can hit over 90%. For example, the weekend of Jan. 25-27, rates before taxes were $139 for the historic Palmer House Hilton, $135 for the Fairmont Chicago and $92 for Embassy Suites. Even adding the city's steep 16.4% per night hotel tax to those prices won't break the bank.

I like Chicago in winter for other reasons, too. Psychologically, it seems to have more room. It still is breathtakingly beautiful on a sunny day. Skating at Millennium Park is free, and so is clowning around at the Bean (the shiny Cloud Gate sculpture in the park). If you can handle the bracing wind off Lake Michigan, strolling and shopping are relaxing this time of year.

In winter, you can still ride the Ferris wheel at Navy Pier for $6, or take in the winter views from the John Hancock Observatory ($17.50) or watch the crowds from a window seat at the nearby Ghirardelli chocolate shop while sipping hot cocoa (a bargain at $3.50).

In winter, it's easier to get restaurant reservations. It's also a great time for theater. Get discount tickets for shows during Chicago Theater Week, Feb. 12-17, with dozens of theaters participating.

In winter, you also might score tickets for the hottest show in the country, The Book of Mormon, if you are flexible with your dates or seeking a single seat on weekends. The musical at the Bank of America Theatre has been extended through Sept. 8.

Nickel and dimed

When I arrived in Chicago in late January, I heard grumbling from hotel clerks and even transit workers about all the new price hikes around town. Some affect residents, but most of the increases seem meanly aimed at tourists. For example:

The cost of a day pass often used by tourists to ride buses and the L is now $10, a 74% hike over the old price of $5.75. You now need to ride at least five times in one day to make the pass worthwhile, because individual trips are $2.25. Prices for seven-day and 30-day passes also went up Jan. 14.

It's now $5 to take public transit from O'Hare airport to downtown, up from $2.25.

Art Institute of Chicago tickets for out-of-state visitors are now $23 (they were $18). Museum of Science and Industry tickets for out-of-state visitors are $18 (they were $16). And there are no more free days for out-of-state visitors to any Illinois museum -- those were dropped 18 months ago.

It's now $6.50 per hour to park in the Loop, the highest city parking meter rate in the nation. Parking near downtown is now $4 an hour, and neighborhood parking is $2 an hour. Parking prices rose Jan. 1.

The toll for the Chicago Skyway is now $4, up 50 cents.

So how can a simple visitor from out of state still enjoy Chicago?

Come now. If you have two or fewer people, don't bring a car to Chicago -- the parking alone costs more than mass transit or taxis, about $45 to $55 a day, even if you self-park. Take the train or Megabus. Stay with a relative or friend. Seek out small neighborhood restaurants.

Save your money for the few things that really matter to you -- the symphony, a play, a museum, a great jazz club, a Chicago pizza, an American Girl doll with her very own hot air balloon, or just a hot cup of cocoa while looking out at a bustling Magnificent Mile.

Chicago planning tips

Hotel deals: Many Chicago hotels have deals for February, even high-end properties like the Ritz-Carlton (its Winter Escape package includes 25% off room rates plus free parking). So check directly with the hotel for the latest offers. This is also the time of year when you can wait to book until the day you're arriving; use a last-minute hotel mobile app like www.HotelTonight.com to book.

Chicago Visitors Guide: Download the official guide, get an iPad or mobile version or order a copy to be mailed to you at www.choosechicago.com.