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mark-
I have a design for a curved screen as well. If you take the basic frame structure and add 1-inch angle aluminum to this to form the curve and add adequate bracing, then just attach the screen material to it. I decided to go to a flat screen for my theater since my throw is long, and I will be operating in 16:9 mode until I get my anamorphic lens.

mark-
I have a design for a curved screen as well. If you take the basic frame structure and add 1-inch angle aluminum to this to form the curve and add adequate bracing, then just attach the screen material to it. I decided to go to a flat screen for my theater since my throw is long, and I will be operating in 16:9 mode until I get my anamorphic lens.

Don

How did you attach the screen material? Do you have any pictures with the screen material attached? Thanks!

I really like how simple it looks. Any chance you can give me an estimate as to how much it would cost me if you would make and ship me all the parts for a DIY curved screen approximately 13'6"x 5'3"? I live in the Dallas area or, list all the pieces and where to get them along with the instructions posted.
Thanks-

It's not one of yours, but a commercial one. I was curious to see how one would go bending the frame to DIY a curved screen. The frame does flex, but not enough...

In regards to yours, will you simply flex the frames, or are you taking them to a metal fabricator.

I would actually need 600mm (2 feet) extra at each end of the horizontal beams to ensure the proper smooth radius if I was to take mine to a metal fabricator, so have no choice now but to try and flex the frame...

The cost of my 92"x39" 2.35 frame was $89.00 Cdn after taxes... The store cut my 4 pieces then we both realized that I didn't actually need 39" lengths for my height because I didn't take into consideration the 1-1/2" from the widths so we cut those down to 36" lengths... I'm guessing I could of saved a couple of bucks but we got a laugh out of it anyway.

Metal Supermarket had given me the name of a local aluminum number who I had priced out earlier. He charged me an hour's labor, so $65 and I paid cash.

I picked up my Phifer Sheerweave 4500 from a local supplier in town for $149.00.

I used an sos pad on the frame to rough it up for some primer, primed it, then painted flat black, the two cans of paint were about $8.00 from Canadian Tire.

I then used velcro to attach my screen to the frame, velcro was $40.00 after taxes. I bought 2" loop velcro and had it sewn into the material and then used 1" adhesive velcro on the frame, I wanted the material to have a thicker velcro so I had some overlap with the hook side so I could pull it tight and not worry about not getting good coverage.

All said and done, approximately $350.00 CDN for my frame and I think it looks great. I decided against cross braces to cut down on cost for one and for another did not think they were necessary for only a 92" screen, my screen is rock solid with no bend or bow present, I still have some work to do as you can see by the pictures, I have the screen sitting on a couple of saw horses until I get a chance to build my false wall in its place.

James-
I will together a material list for you. Materials will run you about $200 without the screen material. I have not built a curved screen yet, so this will be a prototype.

You can get screen material at seymourav.com. Tell Chris I sent ya!

Don

Thanks for putting the curved screen material list together. Can't wait to see your list of items and how it goes together. I'm checking out your above web site for materials right now.
Thanks again,
James

I would flex the channel to create the bend. You can do this with 1 x 1 inch angle, starting at the center and working outward. Add ribs for support.

Don

Don,

I learned a few things yesterday -
1. The frame is rigid enough not to require additional bracing.
2. The frame had to be installed backwards to prevent fabric sag. When installed the right way, the long edges of the frame bowed in and no amount of re-tensioning could fix that. The screen is AT so I can't really add a centre support as it would be right in the centre of the speaker.

I did notice at CEDIA that both the Curved AT screens from Stewart and Screen Research attached from the front. They both used an additional cover system as a part of their masking and housing system.

Mark-
Your screen is awesome! For curved screens, you would want to stretch the fabric from top to bottom, but not stretch on the sides, just attach. This will keep the material from "popping out" in the center. Are you doing panels for the masking?

James - I have a new website coming online shortly. This will give more detailed information.

I would flex the channel to create the bend. You can do this with 1 x 1 inch angle, starting at the center and working outward. Add ribs for support.

Roar - hey, I don't own this thread, I just started it! Your screen looks great! How will you do the borders?

Don

I've decided I'm going to build a false wall to hold the screen and I'm going to do the entire wall in black velvet... that is the current plan, so my border is going to be the entire wall The frame will sit inset into the wall, the frame is 1-1/2 inches, I will frame out with the wall with 2x4's, so it should be inset about 2 inches, giving a bit of a shadow box look I think. I'm excited to get started on that.

Mark-
Your screen is awesome! For curved screens, you would want to stretch the fabric from top to bottom, but not stretch on the sides, just attach. This will keep the material from "popping out" in the center. Are you doing panels for the masking?

Don

Hi Don,

Thanks I'm building it modular so I can take with me when I leave...

I'm using SmX (marketed at Acoustic Vision in Australia) which does not stretch as much as other fabrics, so basically the attachment system (plastic rod into the slot) provides the tension by taking up to an inch on each side.

What I noticed was that the frame bowed the same shape as the pincushion I am trying to correct, hence the centre bowed in causing the fabric to sag. Yet it remained tight when installed revered, and I can only assume this happened because of the profile which flexed different ways pending the curve (front in and back out).

I did notice that the vertical centre did not shift, but rather followed the frame, so a good end result.

Given that I am now going to have to make top and bottom masking bars, I might as well design the side masks at the same time instead of installing side trims and them side masking. I have some more screen material here so was thinking about a frame with that material, but sprayed black. Not 100% sure yet...

I can get the jet black flocking that is used on my screen from the manufacture(I use it on the small end of the prisms in my lenses) and it is an adhesive, so will stick nicely to pretty much anything.

As for the masking, I wanted to try to avoid a solid panel given that the masking will go right up to the Left and Right speaker and am hoping it won't cause an audible effect. I am also a bit restricted on the sides of the screen (once installed in my theatre), so a sliding system is pretty much out of the equation. I was thinking either a cloth version of the "wing things" I did in my last cinema (in the house that I sold last year) or to try a side rolling system.

I also re-did those attachment points tonight as well using 1/4" bolts and nuts with a large washer. The end result means that I can now custom the curve to be exactly what is needed for the correction of pincushion...

Mark-
Your screen is awesome! For curved screens, you would want to stretch the fabric from top to bottom, but not stretch on the sides, just attach. This will keep the material from "popping out" in the center. Are you doing panels for the masking?

James - I have a new website coming online shortly. This will give more detailed information.

Don

Don,
Looking forward to seeing your new website and the detailed information you mention. No rush here but if you don't mind, and think to do it, please send me the information in a "private messsage" (of your post here on the AVS Forum).
Thanks again for your contributions to all of us.

Mark, you screen looks great! I'm envious but I'm afraid it is more complicated than I can handle. I really like the idea of putting the canvas on over the reverse side of the frame facing the projector. The frame looks silver. Is it alum. tubing?
-James

I've decided I'm going to build a false wall to hold the screen and I'm going to do the entire wall in black velvet... that is the current plan, so my border is going to be the entire wall The frame will sit inset into the wall, the frame is 1-1/2 inches, I will frame out with the wall with 2x4's, so it should be inset about 2 inches, giving a bit of a shadow box look I think. I'm excited to get started on that.

Hello Roar, How is your project coming along ? How were you Al pieces attached to one another, welded ?