2009 d'Issan, Margaux

Wonderfully perfumed with dark berry, mineral and chocolate character. Full body, great tannins and a long and racy finish. Very refined. Tight and racy.
(3/2015)

93 points
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

A strong effort from proprietor Emmanuel Cruse, d’Issan’s 2009 was fashioned from minuscule yields of 18 hectoliters per hectare, and its 13.7% natural alcohol set a record at this estate. Composed of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot, it exhibits a classic Margaux fragrance of acacia flowers/violets, blueberries, cassis, licorice and camphor. Opulent and full-bodied with silky tannins as well as a rich, dense style, it will be interesting to compare the 2009 with the brilliant 2000 and 2005 over the next two to three decades. (RP)
(2/2012)

92 points
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Bright medium ruby-red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, blueberry, mocha, smoke and game. Very rich and full for Margaux if a bit youthfully monolithic today following its silky entry, with black fruit flavors accompanied by medicinal chocolate and menthol elements. Has the stuffing and length to support its big, mouthdusting tannins. Offers impressive potential. (ST)
(7/2012)

91 points
Vinous

The 2009 d'Issan was affected by hail and reduced yields to 35hl/ha. It has a plush and extravagant bouquet with blueberries, damson and dark cherries, not quite delivering the delineation of the 2008 but undeniably seductive and pure. The palate is well balanced with fine-grain tannins: tarry black fruit intermingling with graphite and sea salt. It fans out gloriously towards the finish although it does not quite have the killer precision of the previous vintage that is currently more expressive. Tasted at the d’Issan vertical held at the property. (NM)
(7/2018)

91 points
Wine Spectator

A taut but fresh style, with plum skin, mesquite and mineral notes running along. There's a solid core of steeped blackberry fruit in reserve, and the perfumy finish has latent grip. (JM)
(3/2012)

Product Reviews:

I confess, d'Issan is my favorite Margaux, and for many reasons. The style is absolutely seductively classic Margaux. Violets, acacia, coffee, mocha. Never heavy, and perfect with dinner! Indeed beautiful.

What do you say about an historic Bordeaux chateau that has an actual moat? I don’t know if it improves the quality of the wine but with enotourisme on the rise, it seems a sensible precaution. The property has been owned by the Cruse family since 1945, and run by Emmanuel Cruse for the past twenty years. Classified as a Third Growth in 1855, the estate currently has 44 hectares of vineyards designated as AOC Margaux. These are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (62%) and Merlot (38%) and lie just to the north of the village of Cantenac on the banks of the Gironde River. I ranked the 2009 d’Issan among my top wines of the vintage, and it was one of only two wines from Margaux that I bought for my own cellar. In spite of the ripeness of the vintage, it is nevertheless a very balanced effort with moderate alcohol, superfine tannins, and a lively acidity that lends the wine freshness. It is a wine with a great sense of place, a classic Margaux with telltale violets on the nose and remarkable elegance and grace. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot. 50% new oak.

Whereas in vintages like 2012 and 2015 I've recommended Chateau d'Issan because of its finesse and its elegance, the 2009 about blew me away recently with its subtle power and surprising muscle for what is normally one of the more feminine Margaux wines. There's still plenty of life left in this wine and it has the stuffing for another ten years in the cellar, but when opened today the lushness of the 2009 fruit is almost too tempting to pass up. Those who like their Bordeaux textured and with a little chewiness on the finish will go crazy for this. It has all the aromatics of what you expect from Margaux with ample fruit and structure, to boot.

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends

- Cabernet Sauvignon has come a long way from its role as a blending varietal, however dominant, in the wines of Bordeaux. Today it is the most planted red varietal in the world. Identified as a descendent of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon needs to be planted in warmer climates to fully ripen. Its small berries can easily be identified for their distinctive blue color, thick skins and high tannins. And while the varietal has its own definitive characteristics: green pepper-like aromas and black currant flavors among them, it is perhaps most prized for its ability to convey terroir, vintage and winemaking.
A relatively new varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon started making inroads into the wines of the Médoc and Graves in the late-18th century. Today it is also dominant in the up-and-coming Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux and can also be found in Southwest France. It is the companion varietal to Sangiovese in Italy's Super Tuscans and is planted all over Europe, stretching to lesser-known winegrowing regions like Russia and Lebanon. In the Americas Cabernet Sauvignon has found champions in every nook and cranny of California and among winemakers in Washington, where it complements plantings of Merlot. In South America, Cab thrives in Chile, but can also be found in smaller amounts in Argentina and even in Mexico.

Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.

Sub-Region:

Bordeaux

Specific Appellation:

Margaux

- Margaux is the southern most of all of the appellations of the Haut Medoc. Located near St. Julien, it has more cru classe producers than the other four villages of the area. In addition to the legendary Chateau Margaux, there are five second-growths: Rauzan Gassies, Rauzan Seglas, Dufort-Vivens, Lascombes, and Brane Cantenac. While more people are probably familiar with the third growth Chateau Palmer, there are nine other wineries with the same ranking in addition to a trio of fourth growths and a pair of fifth growths. Because Margaux is comprised of five communes… Margaux, Cantenac, Soussans, Labardes and Arsac, the wines styles are diverse throughout the region with the more masculine tannic wines coming from the Cantenac side of the appellation. Because of a high percentage of Merlot planted in the region, many wines from Margaux are more round, feminine, and exotic that the other appellations of the Haut Medoc.