Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.

Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.

Revision as of 13:42, 17 June 2009

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Motlhabaneng - Masekga

Two spectacular granite columns near to the Northern Tuli Conservation Area in north eastern Botswana.

Eastern Tower

1 MASESOTHO LINE 18 (N) 25m ****

Located on the back (Southern) shaded side of the eastern tower. Base of the line is marked by a large white barked shepherd’s bush (witgat) tree. Start on fractured features on the right hand face of the open book and head straight up to guano covered ledge. Continue to follow the crack features up to another small ledge with a loose but immovable rock on it. Protect well using small nuts in the crack directly above. Crux sequence requires moving slightly left to gain a small, slightly left leaning rail and some bridging using the right hand wall. This takes you to two small, sharp crimps further up and slightly right. From here push straight up for a long reach to a chunkier hold which takes you onto the ramp. Nut placement on the right in a vertical crack (watch for loose stuff and debris here) requires a long sling. Continue up the ramp and then the vertical blocky crack (cams and hexes work well) to top out. A long rope sling anchor around a large boulder is situated directly above the top out. This is intended primarily for rapell exits and should be checked thoroughly for wear before use, and extra care taken to ensure that it is equalized properly before weight is put on it. A rope threaded through the bottom loop will pull easily from the bottom.
Requires 60m rope.
First Ascent Guy Williams 2009

2 BABIRWA LINE 16 (N) 25m **

Located on the East face of the South tower. It follows a blocky route up to the obvious right leaning diagonal crack. The crux is moving away from this to the left over the face to gain the top of the tower. Descent as for route 1.
First Ascent Carl Bauer 2009

3 MAVENDA LINE 23 (N) 25m ***

Located on the North face of the south tower is an obvious open book about halfway up. There is a very tricky overhang with a crack running through it to get over. Only toproped so far using aid to get over the overhang.

From Botswana - Take the road from Bobonong towards Tuli (Mathathane) and turn left onto the gravel road signposted Motlhabaneng. The columns are clearly visible and there is a track (4WD) which gets quite close.

From South Africa - via Alldays and border at Pont Drift (not passable in wet season)