Reducers provide a smooth transition between floors of different heights. Perfect for connecting wood flooring with vinyl/resilient flooring, or low pile carpet.

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We installed this on a concrete floor and we learned from professional installers you don't even bother with the track. Just fit the transition into the gap you're filling and use a good-quality construction glue to hold it onto the new floor. Be careful with the application, 'cause you may have to take the transition off and if you glue it to everything in the gap you may regret it if you have to remove one floor or the other. Glue to one side (I glue it to the new floor) and it should stay just fine. You can always put more glue on later if it gets loose. The channel is useless in concrete and I suspect it's not much better on a plywood floor, either, 'cause of the variable heights and such of the flooring it is designed to seperate. Try it if you wish, because you can always unscrew it and glue the transition directly to the floor as described if you have trouble later.

The reducer was used for transitioning between our laminate flooring and vinyl linoleum. The height difference between the two floors is so great that the reducer had to be elevated an additional 6mm off the linoleum floor to reach the top of our apparently very tall 15mm (with padding and underlayment) laminate. This left a 1/4 inch exposed gap under the bottom edge of the reducer. We had to strip some of the remaining boards from the flooring to glue underneath, and while it works, it's too tall of a transition. We needed a product that provides a more gradual transition between the two types of flooring.

The reducer comes with a metal track and spacer material to use with thicker laminates (such as the 12mm + 3mm that we used). First off, installing the track for a thinner laminate probably would have been easier, as the spacer material would not have to be used. In our case, however, we found that even with the spacer material, the track was too low to properly engage the reducer. After some trial and error, we determined that if we doubled up the spacer material under each section of metal track, we could get a good bite on the reducer. Consequently, we were left short on the spacer material and will be going back to Lumber Liquidators to see if there is additional spacer material available.

I've bought hardwood from LL before for my 1st home. This time because of funds I went with the laminate flooring and was a little disappointed as there were quite a few planks that has slight damages along the edge. I know that the chance one takes but next time I'll stick to hardwoods.

We installed this flooring in our living room and it is absolutely beautiful! This was the easiest flooring to install we have ever used. We like it so much we are going to put it in the hallway and kitchen next. If you're on the fence about this one go for it you won't be disappointed!

Definately use the track. The trick to prevent the cut & butt seam from seperating is to not have the track at the same point as the seam (offset the joint at least 6 inches).

Answered on 10/24/2011 by customer care 2

Q:

I am going to install the Kensington Manor handscraped laminate in my house. I have a question about transitions. I have a tile hearth that sits 1/2 inch higher than the subfloor... how do i transition to that? Also, what do I do as I approach doors that have a threshold to the outside?

At the fireplace hearth you can use a threshold that will help transition to the two different heights.Depending on what type of flooring is on the other side of the transition area. If it is carpet you can use the same threshold that you are using omn the fireplace, if it is a hard surface such as tile or wood, you would use a T-molding.For more information on the installation please contact our Tech and Install Dept. at (800) 366-4204