if I remember right, there are 4 screws holding the outer channel in place - 2 on each end they are on the bottom ends attached to the cross piece that the roller track is attached to.
they are kind of small and generally rusted in place. when you find them soak with p.b. blaster or some other type or rust buster

As said before , for the clutch head screws in the window regulator track . Pb Blaster Penetrant . If they will not move with the clutch head screw driver , lay it on something flat , put the clutch head srewdriver in the clutch head and smack it with a BFH . Try again. If it still will not come you can fit the smallest vice grip made into the channel and break them loose . It even that does not work use oxy aceytlene penetrating fluid .

To remove the sash you will have to remove the barrel screws on the end . If you do not want to save them drill them out but do not drill into in either the sash or frame . Use the right size bit . If you are trying to save them use the oxy aceytlene to gently heat them and while still hot remove . I used to do this a loct before new barrel screws were available repo .

Once the screws are removed take a short 2 x4 or 1x4 and place it on the top edge of the sash . Hit it with a BFH . The sash will pop off .

Now for the top edge as long as they used the original seating tap put a pair of gloves on . Turn the window frame upside down and hold the glass with one hand. With the hammer tap the ends of the frame . Work back and forth from one end to the other end . If your glass is not broken it may come out all in one piece. If broket like yours , it may come out in several pieces and you will have keep working . Sometimes a small screwdriver between the remainingg glass and the outer frame . You can lay the frame down on something flat (floor) and break the glass out but some will be stuck in the channel and you may still have work out with the screwdriver in the channel. Whatever you do wear safety glasses. Good luck.

That glass looks cracked but the REASON for not breaking it out is that it makes the best pattern for the glass shop to use to cut the new glass. That makes it real simple for the glass guy as he can lay that on the new piece, trace around it, cut it out, grind it an put it in the frame.

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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

My ongoing truck projects:
48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six.
71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant.

I used the clutch head bit and the box nuts just spun on 2, and on 2 of the box nuts the heads were rusted and they stripped out. So I drove a torx bit into the opposite side and that was enough for 2 to loosen up, but two were rusted too bad and they broke. So where do you get box nuts to replace these?

if you can get the glass out in one piece, but are unsure if you can make it to the glass shop with it in one piece, you can trace the outline onto some hardboard and then you will have a good sturdy pattern to work with. the bonus is that you have a pattern for both sides that will be better, unlike a cardboard pattern.

Removing rusted bolt basics
One of the first jobs I ever had was at a shop doing full on restorations on vintage Fords (we specialized in model 40s 1933-34) back in the late 70's. By boss taught me MANY things I use every day. One of them was the best trick for getting rusted bolts out that I have ever tried.
You need your torch with a small tip.
Take the torch and make a perfect flame like you are going to weld. Heat the bolt head up till it starts to turn red. (If the bolt is already broken off you will need to saw a grove to use a flat blade screwdriver or have enough to grab with locking pliers) Then quickly cool it with a squirt bottle of water. Repeat, heat it, then cool it. Do this a number of times and the bolt WILL turn right out. If you can, heat the nut around the bolt right before you try turning it out, BUT DON'T HEAT THE BOLT. This will expand the nut from around the bolt. I have did this on Model A door hinges, if you are not familiar with them, it is a 5/16 bolt with a little flat blade screw driver head! A ridiculous design that rusted in to tight to remove around 1950! You can imagine how hard they are to remove in 2017. I have did these with total success, only needing a regular hand screw driver about 99% of the time.

The way I figure the heating and cooling expands and contracts the screw breaking it loose from the rusts grip.

Brian

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1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

I bought this clutch head screw driver off the SnapOn truck (first tool I ever bought there) for my truck after using flat blade screw drivers up until then.

Brian

Attached Images

__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

If you have a good Ace Hardware store close by check there for the box nuts. You won't find clutch head screws there but you can find many of the fasteners that you will need while putting your truck back together.

If you are talking about the barrel screw in the top photo all of the repo guys sell them or ebay . If you are talking about the square nuts in the lower sash , it might be easier to buy a used sash .

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8man

Paul, the instructions really helped me understand the sequence.

I used the clutch head bit and the box nuts just spun on 2, and on 2 of the box nuts the heads were rusted and they stripped out. So I drove a torx bit into the opposite side and that was enough for 2 to loosen up, but two were rusted too bad and they broke. So where do you get box nuts to replace these?