Adrian Hernandes (left) and Ricardo Rosas (middle) making sandwiches, with longtime manager Rafik Zadoorian (right) at the Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April 11, 2012.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

Adrian Hernandes (left) and Ricardo Rosas (middle) making...

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The Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April 11, 2012.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

The Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April...

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A pastrami sandwich being made at the Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April 11, 2012.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

A pastrami sandwich being made at the Submarine Center in San...

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Adrian Hernandes (left) making a sandwich as longtime manager Rafik Zadoorian (right) takes a phone call at the Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April 11, 2012.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

Adrian Hernandes (left) making a sandwich as longtime manager Rafik...

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Longtime manager Rafik Zadoorian (left) working at the cash register at the Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., during the lunch hour on Wednesday, April 11, 2012. He's been manager of the sandwich shop for over 30 years.

Photo: Liz Hafalia, The Chronicle

Longtime manager Rafik Zadoorian (left) working at the cash...

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Abed May adding minced parsley to hamburger meat while making meatballs at the Submarine Center in San Francisco, Calif., on Wednesday, April 11, 2012.

For an overview of the 49 Square Mile project, go to sfg.ly/49miles. Now we're delving further into each neighborhood, 1 square mile each week.

The western outlet (or portal, if you will) of the Twin Peaks Tunnel brings us to Square 30, the stretch of the city that also includes St. Francis Wood, Laguna Honda, Forest Hill and the food and drink hub that is West Portal.

It is here that Shaw's has been slinging sweets since the Depression, though its original name was Karamel Corn. At one point, founder Douglas Shaw boasted 50 branches of the old-fashioned candy shop. Although he eventually went out of business, the original flagship remains. Today, you'll find homemade fudge, nostalgic candy and Mitchell's ice cream.

Square 30: Submarine Center

Media: San Francisco Chronicle

The West Portal strip has plenty of grown-up attractions - in the form of friendly neighborhood pubs. And they all have quintessential bar names: The Dubliner, Joxer Daly's and perhaps best of all, the Philosopher's Club. The closest you'll get to mixology in West Portal is a gin and tonic. And in this case, that's a very good thing.

On the food side, the heartbeat of the neighborhood is the Square 30 winner, Submarine Center. Regulars - nearly all from nearby - queue up daily in Sub Center's narrow memorabilia-lined space. The line moves quickly as the staff churns out its signature toasted deli sandwiches in mini, center or super sizes. Prices are low, and the sandwiches have barely changed in decades.

Next door, Bullshead specializes in freshly ground burgers, of both the beef and the buffalo varieties. Served on silver platters, they're charcoal-broiled and come with fries or another side. And yes, there are bull heads on the wall.

Fresca's bigger locations in Noe Valley and Pacific Heights might get more attention, but it's in West Portal where the restaurant began. Soon after opening in the late 1990s, Fresca was drawing crowds with its creative Peruvian cuisine; since then, it's gone from hot spot to staple.

There's a new kid in town, too. Celebrity chef Ryan Scott opened Market & Rye last month in a former noodle joint. Scott - who was TV's Top Chef and has a KGO radio show - is offering up sandwiches, salads and soups in a casual cafe setting.

The square is more than West Portal, though. A few minutes up the hill toward Laguna Honda, Tower Burger looms. Don't let the strip-mall environs fool you; the burger joint uses Niman beef for its patties.