Villa San Donnino, Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Barrels aging what is known in Emilia Reggiano as "black gold"

Grapes on the Villa San Donnino property

Small batch. Hand crafted. Artisanal. Words that are commonly thrown around these days as more and more consumers are willing to pay for the knowledge of their food source and the higher quality that comes with smaller production. But in Modena, a small city in Northern Italy, marketing buzzwords are irrelevant. Here, when Traditional Balsamic Vinegar requires a minimum of 12 years to age, the finished product is nothing short of the real deal: handcrafted, artisanal, small batch balsamic.

​It’s a test of patience, precision and dedication to produce what many people in the Emilia-Romagna region refer to as “black gold.” To be clear, this is the original product; the artisanal take on the big bottlesof thin black liquid found on supermarket ​shelves and poured over salads with oilve oil, salt, and black pepper.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta), which translates to Protected Designation of Origin, a way for consumers to quickly recognize Italian products that are produced by local purveyors using traditional methods. In this case, the black gold is produced in Modena and only contains one ingredient: grape juice (whereas the balsamic found on supermarket shelves is often cut with wine vinegar and additives for color). It’s also aged for a minimum of twelve years, whereas most vinegar is aged for 2 years, maximum. The result lives up to it’s nickname, a thick, rich black liquid that is so complex and delicious, it puts the supermarket stuff to shame.

Waiting 12 years to finish aging the first batch means Traditional Balsamic Vinegar production isn't exactly a start-up business. Davide Lonardi was born into vinegar production, with his family's operation at Villa San Donnino now in its third generation, they utilize wooden barrels that date back to the 19th century. Considered to be of medium size in Modena, Davide produces 3,500 bottles of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar per year. In the area, there are many small batch producers who yield as little as 100 bottles, and just a few larger ones that produce up to 5,000 bottles per year.

Over a half century of making balsamic vinegar on this property means the quality of the family product is of the utmost importance. Each year, Davide and his team harvest the grapes, which are skinned and pressed into juice that is immediately cooked to stop the initial fermentation. The cooked juice, or must, is placed into large wooden barrels in the Villa San Donnino attic, or batteria.

Davide explains the differences between Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and what is found in supermarkets

The batteria in the Villa San Donnino attic, aging grape must into vinegar

A method of decanting is used to move a small amount of the must from the larger barrels to the smaller ones each year. This process takes place each winter, as summer is reserved for the fermentation process which occurs naturally in warm weather. After either 12 or 24 years have passed, the smallest barrel is emptied and taken to the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Here, the product is reviewed by master tasters (the sommeliers of vinegar), and if approved, bottled into 100ml bottles. Only then can Davide add the Villa San Donnino label and sell the product. This rigorous process and incredibly high quality may be why each bottle sells for a minimum of 40 euros. It’s also likely why Davide hasn't had a vacation since 1995.

While tradition dictates the process for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar production, Davide has taken some creative liberties by introducing a hybrid 6-year aged product called Nerone. ​

Villa San Donnino vinegar barrels

​Although not considered the DOP Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, this less expensive alternative is still leaps and bounds beyond supermarket vinegar when it comes to flavor and quality. He also crafted a 6-year aged white vinegar (appeals to the French, evidently) and experimented with different types of wood barrels, each offering different undertones in flavor. Essentially, he’s a modern day artisanal innovator.

In a country like Italy, where history and tradition drive food production, and in a region like Emilia-Romagna that yields some of the world’s most delicious food products, Traditional Balsamic Vinegar continues to be crafted with the same technique as hundreds of years ago. This translates to an incredibly unique and highly sustainable product that stands out in a world which revolves around big box stores and fast food restaurants. The time, energy and effort required to make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is a reminder that thoughtful, slow, and careful is almost always better.

Be smart when balsamic vinegar shopping. Look for age (the longer the better), and ingredients (it should only be made with grapes). Seek out Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena - it is always in a 100ml bottle. Well worth the high price!