Daniele Puleo, chef-owner of CiboDivino Marketplace on Sylvan in Dallas, is on a mission. "I want to turn the world on to Lambrusco, to make Lambrusco as popular as rosé," he says.

He acknowledges that the wine is misunderstood, thought of as cheap and soda-pop sweet, since that was the only style of Lambrusco sold in the U.S. in the 1970s and '80s. Today, you can find exciting and delicious Lambruscos from dry to sweet.

Lambrusco is a red, rosé and occasionally white effervescent wine. It is made dry (secco), slightly sweet (amabile), and sweet (dolce). The name Lambrusco comes from the family of grape varieties of the same name, which are thought to be domesticated from wild grapes.

It goes with everything

The best-known Lambruscos hail from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. You may not recognize the region for its wines, but you certainly know it for its iconic foods: Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and balsamic vinegar of Modena.

"You can drink Lambrusco with an entire meal," says Puleo. "It works with appetizers, cheeses, meats, salads, and the sweeter Lambruscos go with dessert." Dry Lambruscos can be served with platters of salumi and prosciutto as well as fried chicken or smoked barbecue beef brisket.

Daniele Puleo, chef-owner of CiboDivino Marketplace in Dallas, swirls a glass of Lambrusco.

(David Woo/Staff Photographer)

Fruity bubbles

Puleo is excited about producer Cantina della Volta, which makes Lambruscos in the "classic style," where the second fermentation that produces the bubbles occurs in the bottle.

Both the red Spumante Brut 2009 and the Spumante Rosé 2013 are made from the Lambrusco di Sorbara grape, perhaps the most delicate of the Lambrusco varieties.

The rosé is light and delicate with strawberry, raspberry fruit and lively citrusy acidity. The red is very dark, almost black in color, with magenta bubbles. It is rich and savory with blackberry and blueberry fruit, with balancing acidity and smooth tannins.

"All it takes is one taste," Puleo says. "It's a happy wine. It puts a smile on your face."

Interior of CiboDivino Marketplace in Dallas.

(David Woo/Staff Photographer)

CiboDivino is a market and a casual eatery with a bar and a big-screen television. It's a gathering place in the hip new Sylvan Thirty development, where on a sunny afternoon you might find children playing on the grassy square in front of the entrance while their mothers visit and watch, wine glass in hand.

You can pick up Italian food products, fresh meat or prepared dishes available for take-out. CiboDivino also delivers. Puleo has assembled an impressive selection of wines with an emphasis on Italian, of course. You can pick a bottle to drink there with pizza, or you can take them both home. He also serves wines by the glass, including Lambrusco.

Daniele Puleo, chef-owner of CiboDivino Marketplace in Dallas, with a variety of Lambrusco wines.

(David Woo/Staff Photographer)

CiboDivino Marketplace is located in the new Sylvan Thirty development.