So people have suggested a master thread to rid of all the 'help me build a PC for X amount of money' threads. This thread will be a work in progress, and may or may not be as helpful as we might think. If after a period of time this thread has proven to be useless or unhelpful, we'll kill it. In the mean time, we can give it a try.

Quality part suggestions are welcomed. I may even put up detailed instructions on how to build a PC (with pics and links to videos by other people) in the placeholder posts below. Please be patient as this thread will be updated constantly (usually at night when I'm home).

Please be aware this is not a 'deal' finder thread. Prices merely reflect the retail prices at which Newegg sells the parts for. You can find your own deals or better pricings on another website.

Special thanks to RAMSTORIA, CoffeeEdge, crystalkear64, Hydro2Oxide, Droenixjpn for their builds and insights.FAQs:Should I buy X now or wait?!?You should always wait if you can control yourself. Prices will go down 99% of the time and/or a new platform is always around the corner. Its the way technology works.

If you want to check out the 'actual' building process before contemplating on building your own, please refer to 2nd post.

Many items may have Mail-In-Rebates (MIR) involved, clicking on the item will bring you to Newegg's site which will give you the most updated price. Other websites such as Amazon, ZipZoomFly, eWiz may have better prices due to sales. There is also cashback available via www.bing.com. So you should do your own research on the best prices when you're ready to take the plunge.

Processors: (updated 05/31/2010)Intel: The Future: Ivy Bridge, the successor to Sandy Bridge is supposed to come out in Q1 2012.

AMD Future Processors: Llano, a CPU that has a built in GPU is releasing on June 30 in the FM1 socket. Bulldozer, the successor to the Phenom series is being released in Q3 2011, (probably Septemberish, although there were rumors of a late July launch). Bulldozer will use the AM3+ Socket and the 9xx series chipset.

Here we have provided some sample builds suggested by experienced CAGs for those who don't want to select every single component by themselves. Links are to Newegg's public wish lists, which allow you to add/subtract parts that you may or may not like to have.

For example, if you do not play games, but want to do video editing with $700 budget, simply select a cheaper video card and upgrade the CPU to a Quad core. Also, please add your own DVD burner, I intentionally left them out because when they go out of stock, the build lists become glitchy.

Q) How hard is it to build a computer? If I've never done it before, is it something I should try?A) The difficulty to building a computer varies from person to person, from computer to computer. Generally it is quite a daunting task for most newbies, as they don't have a clear mental image of what the computer looks like inside. You can read about how to put a computer together in the above post; a link to Maximum PC brings you to a pictorial instruction on how to put a computer together. That computer in particular, is very similar to many of the $600 - $800 computers we've recommended in the first post.

Q) What is the most difficult step in building a computer?A) I'm going to have to say that connecting the case wires (hard drive light, reset switch, power switch, power light) to the motherboard is the most difficult part. Why? Because you simply can get the direction wrong. Each of those wires have 2 smaller wires intertwined together, one is usually white, the other colored. The colored wire end (Refer to this image) should face the direction of pin 1 on the motherboard. In other words, the entire pin set on the motherboard counts from 1 to about 20. All of the colored wire end on the case wire should face pin 1. The pin 1 indicator is often printed on the motherboard. This is a picture of what it usually looks like. You see the pin 1 and 2 in the left red circle, and pin 9 and 10 in the right circle. So that means all colored wire faces left, the direction of the arrow.

Useful links

Power Supply Calculator - Select the parts you are planning to get and estimate the amount of power used at 100% load and 75%-80% efficiency

I very much look forward to using this thread in the near future, I may end up building my father a new multimedia and editing PC since the pre-built ones seem to go sour in a few short years. And heed CoffeeEdge, his advice that I didn't need an Antec 900 instead of the 300 was right on the money, all those LED fans are an eyesore that can't be left off and the flimsy top was wrecked in shipping (getting my refund though )

I can post screen shots of games and/or ratings when I get off work. I added a few other things that brought the price over $700 including a memory card reader, 2nd HDD and wif adapter. I'm not overclocking so the stock fans for the CPU and case have been more than adequete.

What I would appreciate is (which makes my life easier), if you have a build, whether it is your own build, or a build you would like to get, create a wish list of it on Newegg. Then make the wish list public so everyone can see it. I will link your public wish list in its appropriate price range in the post credited to you

Might as well use this thread, since it's computer hardware related...

I'm looking for a new Keyboard, since I need to use my old one on a different machine (and it'd be too much hassle carting the keyboard around with me). I noticed the Logitech G11 was on clearance at Target for under 40 bucks. Anyone have any experience/comments about it?

I think the Logitech G-series keyboards are great if you will take advantage of its features like macros. $40 for G11 is a very good price, I don't think it will disappoint you. I have a G15 on my other computer, the keys are rock solid even though it took a beating every day for the past 2 years. The blue backlit is a bit on the dim side even at brightest level, but it's probably not too big of a deal to many people.

#13
mtxbass1
This space for rent.
CAGiversary! 11092 Posts Joined 11.3 Years Ago

Good thread, but keeping these prices up to date is going to be rather difficult.

Also, a LOT of your prices list a price that includes a mail in rebate. That's highly misleading to at least not note that the price shown is due to MIR. I got my hopes up when looking at the Gigabyte EP45-UD3P.

It's the socket that the CPU plugs into. There are different sorts, for different sorts of processors. You need to make sure that you buy a processor that is compatible with the CPU socket on the motherboard.

Must I choose between Intel or AMD? Is their a hybrid?

Yes, and no, respectively.

Are they the only two manufacturers in the world?

Technically no, but if you're building a desktop PC, then yeah, they're really the only practical choices.

I agree that keeping up with prices is going to be quite difficult. But computer components tend to drop in prices over time, I probably would be more worried about me not being able to keep up with listing newer models of the parts. This is a guideline on how to pick components and to help everyone blue print their build. All the prices are approximate, with or without rebates, and doesn't include any tax or shipping or even the cost of the OS, but I'm just hoping the purpose of this thread is to give people a good starting point in looking to upgrade or build a new PC.

I'm not sure if my formatting of the thread is understandable and uncluttered. Let me know if there's some things I can do to make it even easier to read or to find certain thing.

#18
jlew
For Great Justice
CAGiversary! 145 Posts Joined 9.0 Years Ago

Tagging my interest in this thread. I'll be glad to offer advice and recommendations for the budget-conscious.

Since you are offering

I'm looking at getting the GIGABYTE GA-G31M-ES2L motherboard. I'm not really a PC gamer, the only pc games that I would play are Company of Heroes, Warhammer, or maybe some emulators. Is the onboard video sufficient?

#19
mtxbass1
This space for rent.
CAGiversary! 11092 Posts Joined 11.3 Years Ago

I agree that keeping up with prices is going to be quite difficult. But computer components tend to drop in prices over time, I probably would be more worried about me not being able to keep up with listing newer models of the parts. This is a guideline on how to pick components and to help everyone blue print their build. All the prices are approximate, with or without rebates, and doesn't include any tax or shipping or even the cost of the OS, but I'm just hoping the purpose of this thread is to give people a good starting point in looking to upgrade or build a new PC.

I'm not sure if my formatting of the thread is understandable and uncluttered. Let me know if there's some things I can do to make it even easier to read or to find certain thing.

I'd honestly just leave the prices off, or somehow indicate after MIR. Half the motherboards on there have some sort of MIR attached for those prices.

I'm looking at getting the GIGABYTE GA-G31M-ES2L motherboard. I'm not really a PC gamer, the only pc games that I would play are Company of Heroes, Warhammer, or maybe some emulators. Is the onboard video sufficient?

If I'm not mistaken, the onboard video on that board is the Intel GMA 3100. It will run CoH, but just barely. You'd have to set the quality to lowest, and run it at 800x600, to get playable framerates. Regarding Warhammer...do you mean DoW? That'd also have to be set pretty low, I'm afraid.

Emulation of anything PS1 and N64 should be okay, though.

I'd honestly just leave the prices off, or somehow indicate after MIR. Half the motherboards on there have some sort of MIR attached for those prices.

If you're not willing to deal with mail-in rebates, then PC building becomes a lot more expensive.

I'd honestly just leave the prices off, or somehow indicate after MIR. Half the motherboards on there have some sort of MIR attached for those prices.

I can't really leave prices off, even though they're not accurate all the time, it's important to have them there to serve as some sort of reference. I can indicate rebates, but I think most people nowadays are accustomed to buying stuffs that have rebates. Price is not a very crucial part of this thread, it just gives people ideas that building a $400 PC is possible. And with your help of drawing up sample builds, inexperienced computer builders will have a good sense of direction on how to start their builds. So don't worry too much about individual part pricings, but I would like to get feedbacks on different builds that you can come up with within some of those price ranges.

#22
mtxbass1
This space for rent.
CAGiversary! 11092 Posts Joined 11.3 Years Ago

If you're not willing to deal with mail-in rebates, then PC building becomes a lot more expensive.

It has nothing to do with that at all. I'm referring to indicating that the prices listed have rebates attached to get that price.

I can't really leave prices off, even though they're not accurate all the time, it's important to have them there to serve as some sort of reference. I can indicate rebates, but I think most people nowadays are accustomed to buying stuffs that have rebates. Price is not a very crucial part of this thread, it just gives people ideas that building a $400 PC is possible. And with your help of drawing up sample builds, inexperienced computer builders will have a good sense of direction on how to start their builds. So don't worry too much about individual part pricings, but I would like to get feedbacks on different builds that you can come up with within some of those price ranges.

At least indicate MIR's for that price. It can easily be misleading for someone new to come in here, see "build this PC for $400" and then have to put $500 out of pocket because of all the rebates. That's the only issue here.

This will add about 60$ to the overall price, and you will be able to take advantage of full x16 crossfire in the future if you so desire. Note, that this is not needed unless you intend to play at resolutions higher than 16XXx12XX.

#24
jlew
For Great Justice
CAGiversary! 145 Posts Joined 9.0 Years Ago

If I'm not mistaken, the onboard video on that board is the Intel GMA 3100. It will run CoH, but just barely. You'd have to set the quality to lowest, and run it at 800x600, to get playable framerates. Regarding Warhammer...do you mean DoW? That'd also have to be set pretty low, I'm afraid.

Emulation of anything PS1 and N64 should be okay, though.

Yeah I was talking about DoW. Gaming isn't that big of a deal and I could always add a video card later on. I think I'm gonna go for this board, it seems like a good value.

I'll be slowly writing and updating the FAQ which will answer many basic questions on building a computer. If you guys have read a good question somewhere and know the answer for it, please write it in a Q and A format and PM it to me. I'll add it into the post credited to you.

Wishlists aren't working for me. Do I need to register or login to newegg? Also, great thread. Thanks for doing this. Should be good learning material!

For wishlists, you have to log in to your newegg account, and create a wishlist which include the parts (give the wishlist a name so you can manage them). Once you check box the "share" option on your wishlist to the public, you can link it to us and we should be able to see it.

At least indicate MIR's for that price. It can easily be misleading for someone new to come in here, see "build this PC for $400" and then have to put $500 out of pocket because of all the rebates. That's the only issue here.

I'll do my best to indicate when MIR is involved. I'm only one person, and there are thousands of parts on Newegg I wish there is a feature when I can toggle on and off an option to allow selected users to be able to edit the post as well. That would be great haha.

Source engine games run maxed out with 8xAA at 1280x1024 averaging around 80 FPS. Runs Crysis on mostly highest settings at around 30-40. Just add in a hard drive and CD-DVD burner and you're set. You may want to bump the CPU up though if you've got the cash, that's the only real bottleneck here.

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