How a haveli in Dharampura is a perfect example of how Delhi's history can be restored & saved

That his heart remains in this area of the Lok Sabha seat of Chandni Chowk he represented for three terms is unabashedly evident. But more relevant is his practical experience of buying and restoring a house in an area most of us are only too willing to write off as terminally decrepitReshmi R Dasgupta | ET Bureau | January 11, 2016, 13:00 IST

Politicians’ passions — at least in India — run along rather predictable lines, and conservation of architectural heritage is not among the ones that come readily to mind. Which is why a visit to a haveli in Dharampura was such a revelation. The vista beyond the heavy door leading off a claustrophobic narrow bylane in the shadow of old Delhi’s Jama Masjid was as surprising as the evident enthusiasm of the man who has rejuvenated a crumbling relic.

A second heavy door opened onto a huge, light-filled courtyard ringed by three cast-iron balustraded floors. The eyes took time to adjust after the winter dimness of the optimistically named Gali Guliyan (Flower Lane) and take in the engrailed arches supporting walls of slim bricks, carved brackets, polished wooden doors and inlaid marble floors. It was like stepping back into the early 18th century, when this haveli was still ‘nai-naveli’.

“Everything in this house has a story behind it,” says Vijay Goel, better known as a leading light of the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) in Delhi though now a Rajya Sabha MP from Rajasthan.

That his heart remains in this area of the Lok Sabha seat of Chandni Chowk he represented for three terms is unabashedly evident. But more relevant is his practical experience of buying and restoring a house in an area most of us are only too willing to write off as terminally decrepit.

A Lucid Makeover

Together with architect Kapil Agarwal, Goel embarked on what can only be called a labour of love. “Every element of old architecture can be seen in this haveli,” he says, which may be why he set his heart on buying and restoring this one. The family he bought it from, however, evidently had no particular reverence for it, judging by how they kept it.

Broken balconies, cracked walls, peeling ceilings, rusted bannisters and the detritus of generations in 60 grungy, small rooms have now been cleaned, repaired and opened out. A large ground-level seating area leads up to 13 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms and attendant service areas across all floors, culminating in a spectacular terrace sit-out with views of Jama Masjid, Red Fort and Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib partially obscured by rundown rooftops.

Far from proactive preservation by the government and private parties, apart from “heritage” tags (that bar demolition) and property tax exemption, the area has seen no concerted conservation effort.

Rather than dwell on the dismal surroundings, it’s far more pleasant to duck back downstairs and hear Goel talk of how at least this gracious haveli got a new lease of life. To cut a long and painstaking story short, it took six years of effort, perseverance, gumption, luck, some belligerence (to get things moving) and a hefty dose of that Indian attribute called jugaad. All helped along, of course, by a fair bit of financial heft which Goel adroitly avoids specifying.

Sussing out the structure to decide how to redistribute spaces, finding the right technology to repair cracks in 200-year-old walls, locating the right plumbers and electricians to modernise with minimal impact and collaring artisans to recreate the old plaster was one part of the renovation adventure. Goel’s ‘thank you’ has been the herculean achievement of getting BSES to remove overhead wires and the Municipal Corporation of Delhi to clean and repair drains in the lane.

The result is an eloquent evocation of what this historic precinct can become, with a modicum of love and attention. Goel even plans to launch his own initiative to clean up the rooftops and façades, refurbish the shopfronts of the surrounding bylanes and tidy up the area so that more people will be drawn to experience the area.

Desire to Preserve

Certain things about Dharampura cannot be changed — like the narrowness of Gali Guliyan that allows only pedestrian or two-wheeler access. This obviously impacts property prices even though it adds what more enthusiastic visitors would call “atmosphere”. A myriad of grotty shops and tenants paying ridiculously low rents are further deterrents to investors buying into the area.

And that may not be a bad thing. What the area needs is a few more heritage aficionados like Goel, driven more by a desire to preserve and restore heritage properties rather than just profit from them. Of course if Dharampura haveli does become a successful ‘cultural centre’ as Goel envisages, others should be inspired to follow suit. More importantly, the current occupants may be prompted to spruce up their havelis or sell out — and thus save a slice of Delhi’s history.