China, Thirsty and Craving Rain,
Lines Clouds With Silver Bullets

FANGSHUI MOUNTAIN, China -- On the edge of China's great western deserts, Chen Mingde sits in the swivel seat of his antiaircraft gun, his sights trained on a distant bank of clouds.

The 37mm gun moves easily under his hand as he slowly turns the crank, the twin barrels following the clouds while Mr. Chen waits for orders from the artificial-rain headquarters in nearby Xining. "If we get the order," he says, fingering a clip of ammunition, "It'll be ack-ack-ack."