Just remember, that any "hole" in the outside of that pedal box is a straight access (water, etc) into the cabin. Not generally a problem, but fording/etc or just rain water if it gets in *could* find it's way down. I'd suggest at a minimum putting a rubber plug in there, but honestly the once every year or three you're in doing any adjustment on freeplay it's not as bad as it seemed .

I forgot to add that I'm going to put a rubber plug in the 3/4" access hole. Mcmaster Carr to the rescue again. I'm going to make a new pedal bracket gasket from some thin rubber sheet material because I'm too cheap to pay $30 for a factory one. Also doing some corrosion control while I have the brackets out.

Aligned it after my Rock incident at RAW last weekend..
really easy, using the string method and a couple of jack stands to get the frame supported and then lifting the axle slightly to make adjustment easier.

Aligned it after my Rock incident at RAW last weekend..
really easy, using the string method and a couple of jack stands to get the frame supported and then lifting the axle slightly to make adjustment easier.

I definitely need to do this...what reference did you use for it? Last time I totally eyeballed everything, and it's been fine but I'm probably due for a more proper alignment (by "proper" of course, I mean using the high-tech string method and not my eyes!).

It was dead simple... I tied the end of the string to the rear tow eye which was about level with the center of the tire and ran it around the back of the tire at the center of the hub to the front, just get everything loose on the steering rod and make adjustments until all 4 points are lined up and tighten it down. I only jacked enough to get most of the tension off of the wheel, it was not off the ground, you still need some on it and it should be firm when your pulling it into alignment.
You can use the same anchor for both sides and once your aligned and snug up the bolts I lowered it then tightened it after a quick recheck..

All in took maybe an hour and 1/2 that was figuring out how to do it.. I just took it for a 20 drive, tracks nice and straight

I definitely need to do this...what reference did you use for it? Last time I totally eyeballed everything, and it's been fine but I'm probably due for a more proper alignment (by "proper" of course, I mean using the high-tech string method and not my eyes!).

Tow is also adjustable - basically same method minus the string - use a long enough level to check it and loosen the rear bar (easier to pop out the ball joints and true up the Tow and then tighten the bar.. I left mine slightly towed out on both sides for now (equal)

Tow is also adjustable - basically same method minus the string - use a long enough level to check it and loosen the rear bar (easier to pop out the ball joints and true up the Tow and then tighten the bar.. I left mine slightly towed out on both sides for now (equal)

Replaced my 90's door seals. This item went from 'something I'll get around to' to 'something I should have done a long time ago'. Amazing how much diesel stink gets in from a few seemingly small gaps.