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Cafe of Love, Mount Kisco: From the owner of the takeout soup spot Ladles of Love comes a full-service, fine-dining restaurant with a 21-foot stone bar, a chef’s table and upholstered loveseats and chairs, with proper tables for dining. Enjoy the pickled radishes, rosemary-garlic white bean dip and artisan breads while you peruse the seasonal, farm-to-table menu. Reserve your favorite table in the corner, the 8-seat round table with upholstered slipper chairs or cozy up to the marble-and-mahogany bar for seasonal martinis and boutique wines from around the world. 38 E. Main St., Mount Kisco. 914-242-1002, cafeofloveny.com. 8 North Broadway, Nyack: A magnificent copper bar and tin ceilings, but the restaurant has received a facelift inside and out. The menu features traditional Mediterranean dishes with ever-shifting local ingredients, sure to keep regulars coming back to see what chef-owner Constantine Kalandranis will whip up next. The restaurant’s commitment to true Greek hospitality should quickly earn it a welcome spot as a neighborhood favorite. 8 North Broadway, Nyack. 845-353-1200, 8northbroadway.com. Mima Vinoteca, Irvington: A 75-seat restaurant and wine bar surrounded by original brick walls, lined with wine bottles and set with rustic Tuscan wood tables. Owned by cousins John Leggio and Robert Leggio (of Zuppa), it’s a great place to dig in to a comforting bowl of pasta. 63 Main St., Irvington. 914-591-1300, mimarestaurant.com.

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I like to sit at the bar at Roost — along the corner, if I can get it, right next to a stack of coffee table-style cookbooks and a soft-colored painting of a fluffy rooster done by the owner’s sister. We order a couple of cocktails — this is one of the best lists in Rockland — chat with the bartender about college football or the weather, and settle in for an evening of good food and good fun.

Roost opened last summer in the renovated building that was formerly Woody’s on Main. The renovation brightened the space tremendously, especially because it enlarged two big picture windows up front.

The menu is one long list of items — there’s no division by appetizers and entrees — and the size of dishes goes from smaller to larger as you work your way down the list. Small plates like Brussels sprouts and roasted cauliflower are great for sharing as starters, and you may even decide to split an entree, too. Or do as we like to: pass plates around so you can taste everything!

What we tried

Brussels sprouts: You wouldn’t think sprouts would work with maple syrup, sesame and ginger, but it’s a brilliant combination. The sprouts are bright green and crunchy, and the dish is as impressive to look at as it is to taste. In the fall, I had the same combination with carrots and it was just as good.

Roasted cauliflower: Crispy, golden, sweet cauliflower gets a tang from capers, a crunch from pistachios and a little chew from raisins plumped in white wine. The cauliflower is poached in milk steeped with rosemary, thyme and garlic, then sauteed in olive oil to crisp it. It’s as addictive as popcorn!

Caesar wedge salad: Long crisp romaine hearts are dressed with an eggy homemade Caesar and served with crackers of Parmesan. A nice shareable salad.

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Serrano crostini: Long slices of charred baguette are brushed with tomato pasted and topped with salty Spanish ham and shards of Parmesan. Order as many as you like for your group; they’re $4 each.

Fresh ground burger: This burger has a wonderful crispy crust, but the inside is light and airy. A ton of flavor, too. It comes with Gruyere cheese, and you can choose either fries or salad. (Get fries!)

Pan-crisped chicken: Sides with most all of the main dishes at Roost change with the seasons. In summer, you might find corn and tomatoes. Lately, I had the chicken with fennel pollen, olives and feta. Wow! The accompanying flavors were bold, but the chicken still stood out, with a perfect crisp skin and juicy interior. Nowadays it’s served with a French-style ragu with bacon and mushrooms.

Seared salmon: Touch it with a fork and it will fall into chunks. The winter version has spicy greens and a crispy chickpea fritter, sauced with pomegranate vinaigrette.

Who goes

A surprising amount of young couples can be found at the bar: 20- and early 30-somethings. Families and foursomes prefer the dining room. We’ve seen children as young as one, and their great-grandparents, too. It is, of course, busiest on weekends.

Inside scoop

Chef-owner Kevin Reilly came onto the local scene at Cafe Barcel in Nyack, having cooked at Zoe, China Grill, Elmo, Silverleaf Tavern and The Water Club, all in Manhattan. He uses bold flavors and serves manageable portions, and keeps his menu varied and interesting. His cooking is modern — and just a little trendy — and his food packs a wallop of well-balanced tastes, both sweet and savory.

What we will order next

The Pan Roasted Shellfish, which comes in a pot brimming with seafood, looks divine every time we see it sail past on its way to another table. Next time!

What's nearby

Downtown Sparkill is tiny, but wine lovers will want to stop by the shop Grape D’Vine, which is around the corner from Roost. Owner Joe Printz stocks unusual bottles and is very close to opening his new restaurant, D’Vine Bar. Roost is very close to Piermont, so dinner there would be a good bet after an afternoon of shopping or a walk along the pier.