It has that feature, often called slip regen (throttle off weak regen). I don't recall what it was called on the Sabvoton. I have some of that set, and there is one unsettling thing about using that feature.

So you are going down a slight incline, and you back off the throttle. The slight regen kicks in and you get a weak deceleration force, just like with an ICE.

Then you gently apply the electronic brake lever. It closes the switch engaging electronic braking, and immediately the slight regen is turned off. It feels like you have accelerated instead of braked. As the brake lever is pulled and the ebrake voltage increases you then get the braking you were expecting.

This brief feeling of "no regen" is a little unsettling. Eventually you remember what it is and why it is happening, but you feel it instantly and the realization takes a little longer.

It is a lot like pulling in the clutch when there is engine braking, but this is happening with the brake control, so it feels odd.

Volts wrote:Guys I keep getting 5 green led flashes I read in the instructions that it’s related to the motor temperature sensors how do I rewire to fix

Hi Volts,
ps. Because you are taking interest in how to overcome temp issue than I assume that your motor has no temp sensor installed, or white wire is not coming out of the motor.

Answer to your pm message.
Yes, my Sabvoton works without issue. I have installed it in my scooter. It does not blink as yours. When I power my scooter on, controllers RED led stays constantly ON. I don't get any green LED blinking whatsoever.

There two controller leds. One is GREEN and another RED.
If it's all good than RED led stays ON all the time.

I've added resistor as a workaround because my hub motor has no temp sensor installed.

There are other ways but I did following way. Resistor maybe be connected like this:

one end of resistor connects to GND (black wire from hall wires from motor ),
other resistor end connects to temp wire (white wire which comes from Savoton).

Rest 5 hall wires connects as ussual. Nothing is different when you connect white temp wire to black wire. Other wires has to be connected in ussual way. Red to red, black to black. green to green, blue to blue, yellow to yellow.

After connecting resistor you will see Sabvoton app to show temperature other than -150C. Resistor can be 900omhs but other omhs might work too. Try to get something around 1000omhs, or you can use few resistors with less omhs connecting them parallel, for examply you can use two 400omhs or 500omhs resistors, maybe even one resistor might work. Don't know if less omhs resistor will make sabvoton to think that there is less or more heat nevertheless 900omhs or 1000omhs resistor will work for sure.
After adding resistor you can see in Sabvoton app (in motor temperature field) that temperature is not -150C any more. If you still see -150C than don't bother checking anything else ie.: it means that you did not connect resistor properly and you controller will keep giving you 5 GREEN blinks which indicate that motor is in over temperature state and controller protection is in place and it won't sping motor unless this error gone.

If you don't want to mess around with you connector (coming out of motor with five thin wires) connecting resistor to black hall GND wire than you can connect so some other GND wire in your system. You know.. ground is ground, just don't plug it accidently to some positive wire ie.: 5v 12v, or even battery volatge etc.. Most importantly connect one resistor end to white wire and than take GND from wherever you prefer in your EV.

If you think that you don't have needed resistor(s) than scavenge your broken electrical equipment. If you don't see any digits on it than just measure omhs with your tester (amp/volt meter).

*grey color represents white wire in my sketch because white on white is not enough contrast.

Thanks man that was super in-depth, just did the mod and it works no more green light flash, hall test listed as ok so I’m asumming hall sensor complete and throttle engages but now the high brake and ebrake won’t work tested the ebrake under no load, but found out that my volts is to high 89 volts

I reset my parameters you don’t have to redo hall test, hall test is a once of thing just remember your hall angle and put in to the value
Mine is 304 for cromotor but I don’t know if this number is unique or the same with all cromotor, I have a question regarding the throttle, mine goes full blast straight of the bat how do I stop this, is there a way to change it in the settings

I think that the same number should work. I did hall testing numerous times and every time got different number and it is strange for me. Nevertheless I think if you write the same number it should be ok.
I think that number is unique for every motor ie not the same for every cromotor or other motor.

What do you mean by too hight voltage ie 89v?
Controller 72150 is good up to 95v.

I don't use any electrical brake funtion for my subvoton but I don't see why it might not work for you.
Regarding High brake - supply 5v, 12v or battery voltage to high brake wire (it's purple wire in my controller) and it will cut off throttle until you remove power supply from this purple wire. Double check if you can supply battery voltage to this wire because some sabvoton diagrams does not show battery voltage on this high brake wire. But I have tested and it's ok for my application. Ussually both brakes are connected to this wire. You push any of two brake levers and than throttle disengages because electricity starts to go to high brake wire untill both brake levers released.

I have the 36 mosfet 72200 and its dangerously fast i have all the settings to 63 amps and 133 max phase amps, I dont know why my high brake doesn't work i have 12 volts going to it then to 4, 12 volt fans I dont know if the load has something to do with it but any suggestions about how to fix it would be helpful

Hi Volts, glad you got yours spinning. Did you try it with a 72v battery? It will not regen into a battery that is full. You mentioned 89V. It is crazy fast on my setup also.

Alan B wrote:It has that feature, often called slip regen (throttle off weak regen). I don't recall what it was called on the Sabvoton. I have some of that set, and there is one unsettling thing about using that feature.

So you are going down a slight incline, and you back off the throttle. The slight regen kicks in and you get a weak deceleration force, just like with an ICE.
.

Thanks Alan. Makes me want to start building a direct drive just to play with that feature.

Mine is running backwards when set to default rotation zero setting. No issue changing the rotation in software to 1, and all works super quite, cool and very fast. One thing I just noticed in parameters setting instruction is that the deceleration time setting and acceleration time are also swapped when doing that. Not sure what else if anything gets messed up. Thinking I should change the wiring to get it to run correct direction at rotation zero setting. No luck getting the ca v3 working yet with it. Comes up with a voltage fail.

Volts wrote:I have the 36 mosfet 72200 and its dangerously fast i have all the settings to 63 amps and 133 max phase amps, I dont know why my high brake doesn't work i have 12 volts going to it then to 4, 12 volt fans I dont know if the load has something to do with it but any suggestions about how to fix it would be helpful

Fast with 63 amps and 133 max phase? I wait what will you write after you test it with 150A/350A
What cells, how many of them you got for your battery pack?

My 72150 is working, but I am not able to reliably program it yet. I have a motor rotation issue as well as some other little quirks that come and go. I had to set the rotation to 1 to get the motor spinning the right direction. For some reason, it would not hold this setting after several power offs and went back to the reverse direction.

I tried other phase and hall combos, but was only able to get it spinning with one combo. 120 degree phase angle works. Hall angle test runs forever and no results to the test. I am assuming it is a fail. After several attempts at this, it decided to run the correct direction at zero direction setting and all looked good and it runs perfectly smooth, cool and quite. Dialed in some longer accel time and took it for a test ride.

Felt nice and controllable off the line, but now has no where near the power. Not even close. Went back to the programming and the current limit set itself to 30 amps. Nothing I do will allow me to change it higher. I can type in 100 or 150 and hit ok, but as soon as I leave the window, it goes back to 30 amps. I do have it set to allow changes. Not sure what to try next. I am near ready to junk it.

Regarding "Hall angle test runs forever and no results to the test."
This might happen if you connect the controller to PC via USB adapter but forget to power ON controller (battery voltage to Electric Lock wire - Orange wire). On the other hand if controller is ON and you do test then finally you will get resul - Pass or Fail, but it won't take forever.

Regarding 'Limit DC current''.
Thre are six fields for the current setup. One of these fields is named ''Limit DC current''. See pic.
This field value takes effect only when "DC current Limit Voltage" gets below its value.
Do not try to write anything higher than 30A to the ''Limit DC current''. Leave it 30A or you can write it there 10A and you won't feel a difference in your ride till your battery will sag to the value in the field - "DC current Limit Voltage".

Regarding "Felt nice and controllable off the line, but now has no where near the power. Not even close."
So set back accel time. If it's not regarding accel time than maybe you got your battery bellow "DC current Limit Voltage" value and Field 'Limit DC current'' took effect? What was your battery voltage when you get power decrease and what was "DC current Limit Voltage" value?

Regarding "it would not hold this setting after several power offs and went back to the reverse direction. "
Maybe you turn on "Reset Factory Settings" toggle switch in the DEBUG tab when trying to set other settings?

And sometimes it's not so intuitive to active "Parameter Store" toggle switch. When you change settings then set "Parameter Store" toggle ON and power off controller than power ON controller and see if your changes are present.

Controller is on when I program and showing no faults. Ignition wire is hard connected (could this cause a problem?). Battery voltage is much higher (some 10 volts) than the current limit voltage. No sag. Not worried now about the 30amp default popping back into that window now. Thanks for shedding light on that.

Will next try to shorten up the acceleration time and disconnect the 3 speed switch to eliminate a few other variables. Will set it to internal speed control also. Thinking I may need to reset to factory settings first before trying the hall test again. Not sure. Still not understanding why the change in direction. If I don't get it to start behaving consistent soon, it is getting yanked. Don't need any more of this kind of crap in my life. The cheap sunwin worked perfect, right out of the box.

Regarding "Ignition wire is hard connected. "
Are you saying that you don't reset controller after controller settings change? If yes than controller needs to be reset by powering it off ie disrupting electricity to it for changes to take effect and to save it to controller's memory. At least that's what manual suggests to do, see pic.
My ignition wire goes to key (scooter key lock) so I have to make it Off and ON and then check if controller settings are updated. Previuosly before key lock installed I would just remove crocodile connector from my +battery.

Yes, try resetting it to factory default and remove other things which might interfere.

I can't comment on "Will set it to internal speed control also. " as I don't know what it is.
There are (Speed limit mode select):
'External resistance',
'Intern set', and
'no limit'.

Never tested these settings by choosing one or another. My set is on 'external resistance' by default.

Don't know about spin direction change by itself. I doubt that will keep persistently changing direction. I mean if that's the only thing which will disturb about the controller than it must be solved and rest must be good too.

Actually, if my controller would "decide" to change direction in the middle of ride at some point at the crossroad then consequences could be limitless
I too had bought my Sabvoton recently. When I started configuring it to run my scooters hub I noticed also some strange things which I blamed on the controller. My mistake was that I was not powering controller through ignition wire, also there was a bad contact with the USB adapter, needed to push connector hard to start it working properly.

I have the ignition wire connected to B+ lead on the controller side. I am unplugging the battery connection to cycle the power which may be causing the issue as the ignition wire may only need to be cycled to do a proper settings reset. Will certainly install switch for it so I can leave the battery connected in the AM. This may be what is causing the unpredictable results in the setup changes. Will reset to factory settings also.

Has been set to no speed limit, to work with the three speed switch which it did work perfect before the last changes. Internal, to my understanding, uses the current- limits set in the general settings tab.

Update! Reset it and separated the ignition wire. Able to get reliable saves. Power came back! Fails hall angle 4 test however. Tried every combo to no avail. Runs in 60 or 120 degree settings. Sounds smoother in 120 degree setting. Would not think it would spin well in both settings. Motor stays cool also. Will need to dig into this much more deeply. In 60 degree hall angle it immediately broke the chain it came on so hard.

speedmd wrote:Update! Reset it and separated the ignition wire. Able to get reliable saves. Power came back! Fails hall angle 4 test however. Tried every combo to no avail. Runs in 60 or 120 degree settings. Sounds smoother in 120 degree setting. Would not think it would spin well in both settings. Motor stays cool also. Will need to dig into this much more deeply. In 60 degree hall angle it immediately broke the chain it came on so hard.

you got midrive? do you have its pic or thread of its build?

Last edited by minde28383 on Nov 14 2017 8:06pm, edited 1 time in total.

I was able to upload some of the old photos direct to the forum now with the upgrade.

Went through John from CR's posts on finding the correct hall -phase order and was able to find what seems to be a good setting. Hard to tell without a amp meter and knowing what the motor draws exactly by that method, but it works and has way too much power for this build. The clamp meter on each phase wire shows under 20 amps at full tilt. Motor stays cool and runs smooth off the bottom. With field weakening added, it bumps the no load phase current up to 25 amps evenly on each leg at full throttle. Waiting for a battery- shunt meter to get this correlated.

Not only did I destroy the chainwheel, the spider nuts cracked and broke (4 of the five). We have found the limits! Thinking I should move this build back to the sunwin 1500w setup and save the sabvoton for my next one.

Got the ebrake to work also have tune this for my eeb frame and it’s a blast high voltage hub monster is better then mid drive (iv had both setups), plus I like the side regen with heat fins and ferofluid, motor runs luke warm even at maxed out amps and going balls to the wall, also have a Bluetooth bms for battery monitoring which I also like, at 22s 10p 150 amps max draw is more then enough for my application. FYI I’m running at 65 battery amps with 100 amp cut of and 130 phase amps with 250 max cut of and it’s still dangerously fast, Have upgraded to cearamic bearings front and back wheel, also have 8ga phase wires which was a big job, now this thing is hella fast. I can’t compare it to the max e adaptto because I could never really get that controller to work before I forget to mention the controller runs cold no heat what so ever I don’t know if it’s because of where iv mounted it (on the under side of the frame) or if it’s the fact that it’s high fet number but running cool equal efficiency.

On my battery, motor controller setup regens only kicks in at around 3.85 volts per cell, so anyone believing they can run this with just regen and no back brake think again.

First I connected the "purple high brake" wire to the 5v of the brake throttle wire. Nothing happened when activating the brakes.
Then I wired the "pruple high brake" wire directly to my battery (80v) and the controller got incredibly instable after tapping the brakes.
I hooked it up to my laptop and it showed to stay in the e-brake position. When releasing the brake lever it did not return to normal operating modus.

Now I have ordered a thumb operated throttle for variable braking. I want to wire it up like the picture below: (it is not entirely clear to me what wires go where exaclty)

I am wondering if I am the only person experiencing unstable behavoir with regen settings? I like the idea of adding regen brakes but not at the expense of an unstable bike.

Is your controller with variable regen brake function? If not, then it won't work.
If if does have variable regen brake function than it has to have separate 3 wire plug which can be used for variable regen.