Balenciaga: A sporty dynamism from Wang

Suzy Menkes

International Vogue editor

Imaginative, original and independent, Suzy Menkes has built a reputation for honest reporting and telling fashion like it is. Over three decades, her reviews and insights have appeared in the world’s leading press, from The Times of London to the International Herald Tribune. Suzy Menkes now brings her unique take on fashion to Condé Nast International online, as International Vogue Editor.

Fortunately, this exceptional set did not completely outshine the show. Although Wang’s use of mesh was repetitive, his premise – to dynamise the Balenciaga image via sport – was in concert with his previous collections and personal vision. And the net effects lightened up the concept of decoration.

I would defy anyone who claimed to see exactly what was going on in this high-octane, fast-paced show. But here’s the gist: a sport shirt and skirt woven in mesh, the top covered with a transparent glaze; a slim stretch dress, with ruching shaping the bodice into an “X” at the neck; a semi-transparent top with high-waist shorts; and various tailored pieces, such as jackets and coats, worn over dresses with filmy textures.

It added up to a youthful dynamism, with the strong sports element softened by pastel colours including lilac, pale blue and pinky beige.

But the kernel of Balenciaga, what it stands for, is not Cristóbal Balenciaga, with his heritage of nobility. It is Alexander Wang himself. The clothes are an upscale version of his personal creative image. And seen in that light, it was a good, strong show.