A Classic Combination: Chicken Livers, Onions

60-MINUTE GOURMET

A classic and simple dish that is the staple of many home cooks in France, and to a lesser degree in this country, is chicken livers with onions.

Chicken livers are among the least expensive meats you can find in the supermarket, and they are ideally suited to fast cooking.

I use chicken livers in many appetizers and entrees. When I entertain, one of my favorite appetizers is a terrine made with chicken livers and forcemeat and flavored with shallots, fresh herbs and Cognac. For brunch a good option is an omelet filled with sauteed chicken livers and herbs.

When buying chicken livers, look for those that are bright and

moist, almost sparkling. Stale livers have a cloudy surface.

Before cooking chicken livers it is important to pick out any tough veins on the surface, for they are bitter.

In this traditional recipe the chicken livers are cooked quickly in a hot skillet with just a little oil. I add some ground dried sage for seasoning. While I prefer fresh sage, it is sometimes difficult to find.

I begin by melting some butter in a non-stick skillet, then sauteeing onions until browned. Cloves give a nice counterbalancing flavor to the sweet onions.

The other critical element in this dish is red-wine vinegar, which cuts through the strong liver flavor and adds a sharp, clean dimension. Such a flavorful main course calls for a mildly flavored starch, either potatoes, rice or, in this case, fine-textured noodles tossed with chopped hard-cooked eggs and parsley.

Chicken Livers With Onions and Sage

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup finely sliced onions

2 whole cloves

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 pound chicken livers

3/4 cup flour

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 teaspoons ground sage or 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a non-stick skillet, and add the onions, cloves, salt and pepper.

Toss and stir over medium heat for about 10 minutes.

The onions should be browned and soft.

Discard the cloves; keep the onions warm.

Pick over the chicken livers and remove any tough veins.

Quarter the livers.

Put the livers in a bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Add the flour and stir to coat well.

Remove the livers to a baking sheet, separating them.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large non-stick skillet over high heat.

Add half of the livers one at a time. Cook, turning the livers as they brown.

One batch of livers takes about 4 to 5 minutes to cook.

Drain the livers.

Wipe out the skillet, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.

Cook the remaining livers the same way, then drain.

Using the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over high heat.

Add the livers, cooked onions, sage, salt and pepper.

Cook, shaking the skillet and tossing the livers so they will heat throughout.