Description

Nice crack through rough rock. On the wide hands side. Link this up with Crack of Dust. In fact, you could probably climb them as one long pitch if you mind the gear right.

After you get up this consider setting a TR on Cave Crack off of the bolted anchor (climber's left) for Never Intended. Cave Crack is an old-school 5.9 chimney. It starts just left of the Crack of Dust anchor. Great Steck-Salathe training!

Location

Basically a second pitch of Crack of Dust but much less slick. Climb the crack to the right of the anchor.

Protection

Cams, hand to wide hand size. Gear anchor. Walk off way left toward The Blocks.

A few pumpy moves off the ground, but great friction and solid jams. Eases up pretty quickly, but stays fun. My favorite crack at the gorge currently, don't believe it took me this long to get on it. Bring a BD3 for the start, this crack takes pro anywhere.

Great crack featuring some really good rock quality. Lots of friction not your typical mission gorge slick rock. Very similar to the crux of "Battle of the Bulge" on "Puppy Dome" Tuolomne Meadows,CA. A #2 c4 will protect this crack. there is a small section near the bottom that would take a #3 but it is only a couple of feet with bomber #2's on either side. However if you are building an Anchor at the top a #3 is useful. you could also belay at the bolted anchor of "Never Intended." If you do this be sure to place a directional for your follower.