Sorry I just don't have any useful info at this time. I had a major delay since finishing the physical system; my intention is to set up a measuring method over the next while after which I should be able to present my findings.

I'm working (slowly) on setting up a measuring setup so that I can provide any useful info regarding output re angles and that kind of thing. Right now nothing really useful to show in that regard.

Yes getting suitable galvanized or SS hinges can be a problem at least locally. But with the present setup it's not a big deal to change hinges over the years as the arrays are at ground level. I don't have enough solid info yet to talk about pros and cons of angles etc. But I hope to get something out on that aspect of the project in the future.

I don't have enough solid info yet to talk about pros and cons of angles etc. But I hope to get something out on that aspect of the project in the future.

Thanks. This is an experimental solar setup. For example I brought each panel output individually into my "power house". In this way I can interconnect the panels in any desired series or parallel way or in any series-parallel way. I hope to continue with the setup to a point where I can explain what I have learned about my experiments. But for now I just wanted to show how I made the frames for the panels and how I connected them to the ground.

Advantages include: readily available parts/materials used, the abrasive pad lasts a long time (maybe whole season for typical home use), the method not only cleans the dirt from the potatoes it also will peel the potatoes simply by running the drill for a longer time, saves getting dirt in to the house area, uses a minimum amount of water, the pad stays in the eye bolt without without additional fastening needed, reversing the drill reshapes the pad.I'll have to get back to you re disadvantages...

One end of the wire coil has all insulation removed so it is in continuous contact with the battery. The other end has half of the insulation removed so it is in contact with the battery during half of a revolution. When both ends are in a position to conduct current the resulting magnetic field produced in the coil is attracted (or repelled) by the permanent magnets and rotation takes place. The current flow stops when the insulated part of the wire makes contact with the battery. The inertia developed by the initial magnetic forces enables the coil to rotate for the next complete electrical circuit and the resulting magnetic push (or pull) between the two magnetic fields ... and thus rotation continues.

Yes I understand that but when a blizzard is on the go and you need to get some juice to your fridge and freezer and your hands are cold and muscles are worn out from trying to start the engine you will try anything :)

Sorry for late reply didn't realize I had comments. In the process of doing the instructable and the project itself I learned from the web that the current version of WD40 may not be effective as a starting aid. Please check this out as I only saw one reference to this. I have used WD40 in the past to help with starting my old cars.

I have been using gas stabilizer but may not have had the correct amount and also may not have run the engine after adding it to the fuel. But with the generator I've had starting problems from pretty well day one. Even though my generator is, maybe, 4 or 5 years old it has been used perhaps for less than a total of 20 hours running time.