Remove the stems from the buttons of the mushrooms. Peel the mushrooms if dirty, but do not rinse. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a frying pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring often, until they are tender and all the liquid they released has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the parsley and chives and season with salt and pepper. The mushrooms can be cooked an hour or two ahead of time.

If necessary, warm the cooked mushrooms. To scramble the eggs, whisk them in a bowl with salt and pepper. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the eggs and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until they begin to thicken. This should take at least 5 minutes. Continue stirring, lifting the pan from the heat as necessary so the eggs thicken smoothly and form very small curds. In France, scrambled eggs are served soft, but you may prefer them almost set. When cooked to your taste, stir in the mushrooms.

Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve at once on warmed plates. Serve immediately with a garnish of your choice [a few slivers of fresh, black Burgundian truffles are the best choice, if available].

This recipe was adapted from one published in The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan.