Ask An Expert

At Dognition, we believe that shared inquiry and discovery fuel the greatest benefits for dogs and their owners. Therefore we’ve partnered with the world’s leading canine cognition experts and canine-focused institutions/organizations.

Now, you also have the opportunity to inquire and learn from our experts.

I heard an interview with Dr. Brian Hare and he describes another dognition expert, Dr. Adam Miklosi taught dogs how to learn by mimicking people. I'd like to know in more detail how this is done. I think it could greatly increase the speed in which dog can then learn new trained behaviors.

In 2006 we published the first scientific study on imitation in dogs (Topál et al 2006). This was followed by some debate whether one can really speak about ‘imitation’ in this situation. We defined imitation as the ability to perform a functionally analogue behaviour after seeing in done by others (humans or dogs).

We believe that dogs, as a social species, are able to imitate an action shown by others but it is very difficult to provide a clear evidence for this under controlled experimental conditions. Our procedure was the first to provide strong evidence, despite the fact that dog trainers or people working with dogs (e.g. shepherds) probably relied on this ability already many 100 years ago. Given the assumption that dogs have the ability to imitate, our procedure only makes this phenomenon more explicit. In addition to the possibility of studying this skill by scientific means, it has turned out that this so called ‘Do as I do’ procedure provides also a nice way to train the family dog. As a consequence Claudia Fugazza (a PhD student working with us) has developed a new way of dog training based on the imitative abilities of dogs.

The basic idea is that the dog should be able to copy the action of a human (or dog) demonstrator. This can be achieved through a few simple steps in training. First, the dog should be able to perform a few actions (sit, turn around, lie down etc.) on a verbal/visual signal. Second, by small steps the trainer (owner) should replace these signals by the appropriate behavioural cues. For example instead of giving the ‘Turn around’ verbal signal, the human should actually turn around before the dog is allowed to execute the same action. Third, the dog should learn that (1) it should wait until the action is finished. Usually, it is a good idea to use a specific signal (Listen!) before starting the action (demonstration). (2) The dog should learn that it is allowed to perform an action only if it hears a new signal (Do it!). The ‘Do it!’ signal becomes a general command for the action to be carried out during this procedure.

If the dog performs well with the already known 2-3 actions (he is ‘imitating’ the actions), then we can introduce step by step novel actions. At the beginning the dog learns probably only the link between the specific action demonstration and his action but slowly it may also grasp the idea that his actions should be similar to the demonstrated ones. We could try this out by showing the dog a new action (never used in the training so far), in order to see what he does as a response.

After becoming familiar with this procedure, dogs can be trained relatively easily, independent from their previous training experience. Claudia Fugazza has also shown that using this ‘Do as I do’ method dogs can be trained to perform new actions that can be then associated with a verbal cue in subsequent training. This method seems to be as good as other methods, like clicker training.

We have also shown that dogs are able to remember the demonstrated actions for more than 10 minutes at least, even if they are distracted by performing other activities (Fugazza and Miklósi 2013).

We believe that that there are some advantages in using this method with dogs. First, learning by observation reflects probably a biological tendency in dogs, thus this method relies on a natural interaction between dog and owner. Second, learning by observation may rely on using differ faculties of the mind, so this may enrich the mental life of dogs. Third, the owner has to play an active role in this case (I DO something – now YOU DO the same) that may enhance dog-owner bond and improve cooperation.

In 2006 we published the first scientific study on imitation in dogs (Topál et al 2006). This was followed by some debate whether one can really speak about ‘imitation’ in this situation. We defined imitation as the ability to perform a functionally analogue behaviour after seeing in done by others (humans or dogs).

We believe that dogs, as a social species, are able to imitate an action shown by others but it is very difficult to provide a clear evidence for this under controlled experimental conditions. Our procedure was the first to provide strong evidence, despite the fact that dog trainers or people working with dogs (e.g. shepherds) probably relied on this ability already many 100 years ago. Given the assumption that dogs have the ability…

My Jack Russell doesn't care about food, toys or praise while we are walking, his only focus is squirrels, rabbits, etc... and dogs, with two different reactions. For small animals, he wants to chase it, for dogs he barks and try to reach them at all cost.
He passed through 2 different trainers, I read more than 10 books on dog behavior, I took classes... but nothing, he doesn't change. And by the time is getting old, I'm concerned about his health.
I'm hopeless here, I just accepted the way he is, but maybe you have some advices.

My 3 year old neutered male second generation wheaten/standard poodle mix is sweet, well behaved, gentle and affable. But when someone comes to the front door, he cannot control his excitement. It doesnt matter whether the person at the door is a total stranger or my mother, he jumps all over them in his exuberance. He often gets sent to his kennel as a punishment (which he hates but accepts). We could discourage his behavior with his electic collar but I am reluctant to use painful training techniques. Any ideas or insight you have would be appreciated.

I am keeping my 18 month old dog on leash around people at the moment as he leaps up at peoples faces to greet them. This in not acceptable for most people. He has learnt not to do it to us and can be controlled at home but in the park it is an issue. Any ideas on the best way to stop this behaviour.

Truffle our 2 year old lab likes to steal clothes, but one he has stolen them will not chew on them. However, when he steals something hard, like eyeglasses, he will chew these to bits. Why does he do this, and is there any way to stop it?

My dog gets skittish around random moving objects. If a piece of paper is blowing in the wind and comes close to him he gets extremely frightened, and I can't bend down to pet him with anything in my hand because he'll try to get away from it. What can I do to train him not to be so afraid? Strangely enough, he's not afraid of other dogs or people, just random objects.

Half the time when I walk my dog, when he stops to poop he will start to walk again while he is still urinating. How can I get him to stop this habit without him thinking that I'm trying to teach him that urinating is wrong?

What can I do to control excitement barking in Briar-Rose? Controlling her barking when she is learning, or when she is confused. She learns, but it is difficult to show her new things through the cacophony of high pitched barking. Other instructors, like agility or freestyle have a hard time instructing me, as Briar-Rose is always barking. I've tried tugging, but as soon as I release the tug the barking starts. the same with feeding to keep her from barking - it just starts up again, when I stop. I have also trained her to go to her rug and down, when she is inside at home, but swimming, dock diving, agility, nosework, trick training, even Dognition tests, everyone is overcome by Briar-Rose's barking.

What can I do to control excitement barking in Briar-Rose? Controlling her barking when she is learning, or when she is confused. She learns, but it is difficult to show her new things through the cacophony of high pitched barking. Other instructors, like agility or freestyle have a hard time instructing me, as Briar-Rose is always barking. I've tried tugging, but as soon as I release the tug the barking starts. the same with feeding to keep her from barking - it just starts up again, when I stop. I have also trained her to go to her rug and…

Now that I know Buster is an Ace, how can I apply that to change a behavior? pants, whines in long trips. We have tried medication, one didn't work, the other makes him too dopy; I'd rather change his behavior than drug him.

I own a very loving male English Setter. In the field and around the house he will try(mostly succeed) in doing what I ask. He is happy, confident, gentle and mild manner dog. Daily(most days twice) I take him to a field and release him from his leash(he's very good at following directions off lead). This is by far and away the highlight of his day. I need to take him on lead to the field through a highly urban area and he pulls excessively - he is in a hurry to get there and extremely focused on the matter. Treats, praise etc will not break his focus(it's as if they don't exist). He's strong(my wife can't walk him due to this) and it makes it drudgery to take him. I've trained other dogs through obedience school, but this one wearing me down. What do you suggest?

I own a very loving male English Setter. In the field and around the house he will try(mostly succeed) in doing what I ask. He is happy, confident, gentle and mild manner dog. Daily(most days twice) I take him to a field and release him from his leash(he's very good at following directions off lead). This is by far and away the highlight of his day. I need to take him on lead to the field through a highly urban area and he pulls excessively - he is in a hurry to get there and extremely focused on the matter.…