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Has anyone else have this issue. This is the second time this has happen to me. The first time this happen was because I accidentaly put the car in nuetral thinking I was in the manumatic mode while pressing the accelerater. It began to sputter as if the engine was about to shut off. I stopped and turn the engine off and restarted the car -this is when the engine light came on. My wife brought the car into the delearship the next day but by then the sputter had gone so I assumed that they just cleared the check engine light. Anyway I thought this issue was solved until yesterday while driving. I had to merge unto the highway so I mashed the gas to get to highway speeds. After this the same thing happened as before. Does anyone know if when a code is read at the delearship does it tell them what happened or do they just clear the check engine light and thats it.

I don't have the same car, but I can assure you that the dealer knows what triggered the code when clearing it. You can buy your own code reader for about 30$ on ebay. Last time these symptoms occured on my car, it was the crankshalft position sensor going bad.

Well this is what happened today-I started the car- it ran a self diagnostic-the rough idle has gone away as before but this time it cleared the check engine light by itself. Does this car have a self diagnostic tool built in that checks and clears it own codes?

Wow! A car with a brain. Well I had to have a code removed by the Dealer after the battery ran down due to me leaving it im appliance mode. They had to clear the limp-home code.Sounds like you had an ill condition.

Ran into a similar problem. Outlander didn't want to start and when it did, it would die immediately. Finally got it going with the check engine light on. Went right to the dealer and when I turned the engine off and then back on, the check engine light did not light.

Was informed that the codes are stored and so are retrievable. My vehicle had many codes which the tech had to wade through one by one (ID the code, check the connection/part/whatever), clear the code and move on to the next code.

The original problem was a bad connector (CANN connector?) which caused a cascade of performance problems which each generating its own code.

Ok thats what I needed to know, I was wondering if the error codes were saved so that the service department can see what went wrong even though the engine light cleared. I dont think they fixed the issue from the last time I sent it in. This time I will let my wife tell them the exact action that caused this issue and what happen after. I will also ask her to make sure they tell her what went wrong and what they did to solve the issue.

okay guys- My wife carried the car to the dealership today and they called her back and said they cannot give us back the car because they called japan and found out that this has happen to a few other outlanders. They said this may be a major issue and that the car may shutdown while driving. So they are going to give me a rental and see if they can fix the issue. This might be a recall- I will update the board as soon as I get more info.

After driving for 15 min or more, then parking while leaving the engine on and the car idling for about 15 min the RPM will start to move upwards from 1000 till 2000 till 3000 and so on. This has also happened when the car was driven at a very slow pace in hot weather.

Are you saying it revs up and up or that it pauses at each thousand? If left alone does it go all the way to the red line/rev limiter or stop somewhere before? Once it stops (red line or other), what happens next; does it stay there or go back down?Can the behavior be stopped if you tap the gas pedal or do some other action?

As to why it happens, barring any Toyota parts in your Mitsu :P I'd say there's a stuck sensor like throttle position (likely). Or the ECU is flaking out (less likely).

it pauses at say each 500, stays there for some time then goes up. For going all the way to the red line, nope, most I had it too was 4,300-ish then I turned the engine off. This in itself doesnt help, but once I start to drive it at say around 60km/h for 10-15mins it will cool down.