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Nicaragua has been developing a discreet, eco-friendly approach to tourism for some years while El Salvador now presents its Mayan sites, colonial cities, delightful rural drives and the El Imposible National Park. On this holiday you'll be among the first to discover their natural beauty and unpretentious charm. The people of both countries are among the most hospitable in Latin America.

The two newcomers on the radar of adventurous travellers, Nicaragua and El Salvador, share gorgeous landscapes of volcanoes, lakes, palm-fringed beaches, fertile slopes smothered in coffee bushes, and a diversity of flora and fauna. Both have only relatively recently emerged from a period of political turbulence: the impressive level of reconciliation between formerly warring factions has resulted in the creation of two of perhaps the most appealing and friendly countries on the continent. They cannot be compared with the big hitters of Mexico, Peru and Brazil in terms of mind-boggling attractions but their scantily populated rural landscapers of chains of volcanoes, coffee plantations, lakes and remote rivers combine to create a captivating destination.

Undiscovered Nicaragua and El Salvador

Granada

The gorgeous colonial city of Granada is a paradox: now the country’s principal emblem of restoration and beautification, it has a history of piracy and pillage. The oldest city in Central America is nowadays quiet, peaceful and easily explored on foot, but increasingly seen by foreigners as an attractive place to buy a home, as is the case in Antigua, Guatemala or San Miguel de Allende in Mexico. Squatting on the lakeshore and at the foot of Mombacho volcano it has a romantic setting almost unequalled on the continent.

When to go

Granada has a typical tropical climate with high temperatures all year round May-Nov is rainy season, but the countryside looks its best at this time. It can be windy Nov - Feb. Hurricanes possible Jun - Nov.

Language

Spanish.

Getting local currency

Córdoba. There are several banks with ATMs where you can use a UK credit or debit card. You may have to ask your bank to authorise withdrawals before you leave the UK and amounts may be limited.

Key events

Rio San Juan

The beautiful 170km-long Rio San Juan marks the border with Costa Rica and runs from Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean Sea. Strategically important, it has a hectic history of disputes and attacks from outside Nicaragua and within. The remarkable fortress at El Castillo, built by the Spanish to repel pirates (although Horatio Nelson briefly held it after capture by stealth), bears witness to that. However it’s now a peaceful waterway passing through thick tropical jungle, where efforts are being made to encourage eco-tourism. Downstream from El Castillo is the primary rainforest of the Reserva Biológica Indio Maíiz, possibly the largest nature reserve in Central America.

When to go

Situated well within the tropics, Rio San Juan has a typical tropical climate with high temperatures all year round. May - Nov is rainy season, but places on the eastern coast, the Caribbean side, tend to be rather wetter, and to have a longer rainy season, than those on the Pacific coast to the west. There’s a risk of tropical storms or hurricanes Jun - Nov.

Language

Spanish, English.

Getting local currency

Córdoba. Notes can be obtained from money exchanges (casas de cambio) and also from banks which will supply advances on a debit or credit card. There are ATMs in large towns where you can use a UK credit or debit card. You may have to ask your bank to authorise withdrawals before you leave the UK, and amounts may be limited. There is no ATM in el Castillo, bring dollars and córdobas with you. Obtain your local currency needs before travelling to Rio San Juan.

Time difference

GMT -6 hours.

Combines with

A stay at Morgan’s Rock, the well regarded eco-lodge on the Pacific Coast; a few days in the tranquil tropical islands of Solentiname in the southern part of the lake, a 1 hour boat ride from San Carlos at the source of the river.

Getting there

San Carlos, at the lake end of the river, is reached by air from Managua (1hr) or by scenic drive through rolling cattle country on a paved (in 2013) road (3-4hrs). El Castillo is accessible by river from San Carlos, although a bridge makes road access possible from 2014. San Juan del Norte is accessed from Nicaragua by air or by road (3-4hrs) to San Carlos then by river via el Castillo (8-9hrs); there is an erratic service to Bluefields.

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Ometepe Island

Relaxed, tranquil Ometepe - the largest freshwater island in the world, rising from Lake Nicaragua, is dominated by the twin volcanoes of Concepción and Maderas. There’s a timeless feel to the place, where legends and jaguar cults are still in circulation, and the people lead a traditional rural lifestyle avoiding the boisterous political events of the country. The volcanic landscapes are partially blanketed with luxuriant jungle vegetation populated by monkeys and a plethora of bird species. Thanks to the rich, fertile soil, the slopes and flatter parts of the island are peppered with citrus, banana, watermelon, avocado and cacao plantations.

When to go

The island has a typical tropical climate with high temperatures all year round at low altitude. May - Nov is rainy season, but the countryside looks its best at this time. It can be windy Nov - Feb. Hurricanes possible Jun - Nov.

Language

Spanish.

Getting local currency

Córdoba. There’s a bank with an ATM close to the pier where you can use a UK credit or debit card. You may have to ask your bank to authorise withdrawals before you leave the UK, and amounts may be limited.

Time difference

GMT -6 hours.

Combines with

A visit to colonial Granada on the lakeshore; a boat adventure down the tropical San Juan river to the west of the lake.

Getting there

There are boat connections from Granada and San Carlos, or a 1 hour public ferry from San Jorge to Moyogalpa.

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Leon

Like Granada, the core of Nicaragua’s second city and intellectual capital is brimful with red-tiled colonial-style buildings but, unlike its peaceful rival, effervesces with artistic and political energy.

Founded in Nicaragua’s plantation-covered northwest corner, León Viejo (now being excavated) was the capital of the country until destroyed by an earthquake in 1609. A city with a strong religious tradition, it hosts a dozen crumbly churches juxtaposed with murals depicting events from Nicaragua’s revolutionary story. There’s a university and its students enliven the nightlife scene.

When to go

León has a typical tropical climate with high temperatures (30°C upwards) all year round. May - Oct is rainy season, but the countryside looks its best at this time. Hurricanes possible Jun - Nov.

Language

Spanish.

Getting local currency

Córdoba. There are several banks with ATMs where you can use a UK credit or debit card. You may have to ask your bank to authorise withdrawals before you leave the UK, and withdrawal amounts may be limited.

Time difference

GMT -6 hours.

Combines with

A visit to León’s historical rival, colonial Granada (114 km); Matagalpa, a northern mountain town in coffee country close to the Selva Negra Nature cloud forest reserve. (115 km).

Gulf of Fonseca and Eastern El Salvador

The 261km of Pacific coastline and the islands of the Gulf of Fonseca are shared by El Salvador, Nicaragua and Honduras. It’s a hot, steamy place: the vegetation is predominately mangrove, with tangled wetland forests stifling the shore, beyond which are rugged volcanic hills. The long neglected islands host modest sandy coves and small fishing communities. La Unión, the main port of entry from Nicaragua and ferry port for the islands, is also having a revival. Some of the country’s best beaches are in the area, and, in the little-visited east, Perquín is great mountain-hiking and bird watching territory with important revolutionary significance.

When to go

The Gulf receives the majority of its abundant rainfall May-Nov; travel is more pleasant in the dry season Jun-Nov although rare hurricanes or tropical storms may occur at this time. The temperature along the coast hovers around 30°C all year, but it is cooler inland and in the mountains around Perquín (26°C).

Language

Spanish

Getting local currency

US dollar. The former local currency ( colon) was phased out in 2003. You can obtain US dollar cash or exchange travellers cheques locally in banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) and may be able to obtain cash advances from a couple of ATMs in main towns and cities. You should authorise your bank first, and withdrawals may be limited. There are money changers at frontier crossings. Acquire your dollar bills before travelling to the region.

Time difference

Time difference: GMT -6 hrs.

Combines with

Ruta del las Flores, it’s a 4-5hr drive to Juayúa from Perquín.

Getting there

There are land crossings from Honduras. Access is possible by boat across the Gulf of Fonseca to La Unión from Potosí, Nicaragua (2hrs).

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Suchitoto

The enchanting colonial town of Suchitoto (‘place of birds and flowers’) just a short drive north from the capital, is one of the country’s most popular attractions. It has emerged from its pivotal role in the civil war to blossom as a centre for arts and culture. Visitors flock to explore the cobbled lanes flanked by squat, red-roofed adobe houses, its exquisite chalk-white baroque church and viewpoints over the surrounding countryside. But it is not just a tourist destination; much of its appeal lies in the fact that it is still a working town, with boutique hotels sitting alongside thriving markets.

When to go

Suchitoto has a tropical climate all year round with temperatures hovering around 30°C. The dry season is Nov-Apr. The rainy season, May-Oct, is characterised by mostly evening and nocturnal showers. Weekends in the town are lively, with artistic performances taking place on many Saturdays. The February arts festival is a big attraction and well attended.

Language

Spanish

Getting local currency

US dollar. The former local currency( colon) was phased out in 2003. You can obtain US dollar cash or exchange travellers cheques locally in banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) and may be able to obtain cash advances from a couple of ATMs in Suchitoto among other large towns and cities. You should authorise your bank first, and withdrawals may be limited.

Time difference

GMT -6 hrs

Combines with

A visit to the lovely colonial town of Antigua in Guatemala, similarly a centre for the arts (6-7hrs by road crossing the land border at La Hechadura); the Ruta del las Flores (112km by road to Juayúa, 1hr 45mins).

Getting there

The town is a 1.5hr drive from San Salvador via the Panamerican Highway.

Key events

Festival Permanente de Arte y Cultura, Suchitoto, Feb annually. An important festival with many events attracting international performers: opera, concerts, theatre and film are all represented.
Semana Santa, Easter. Among other religious celebrations, a victorious figure of Christ parades through town on an ass on Palm Sunday. There are also street mosaics blanketing a selection of roads.
Día de la Cruz, Suchitoto, 3 May. Processions with fruit and flowers and sweets offered to Santa Cruz.
Fiesta del Aniversario el 15 de Julio, Suchitoto, 15 Jul. Colourful folklore presentations throughout the town.
Fiestas Patronales Virgen de Santa Lucia, Suchitoto, 12-13 Dec. Many cultural activities including masked performances and processions in honour of the town’s patron saint.

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Ruta de las Flores

This extremely scenic 36km route in the hilly western zone, near the Guatemalan border, passes through the principal coffee-growing region. It links several highland towns, including Ataco, Nahuizalco, Juayúa and Apaneca. The route starts in Sonsonate in a lowland area devoted to cattle-raising and plantation agriculture, climbing to the Pipil indigenous village of Nahuizalco, where some older inhabitants wear native costume and where traditional crafts are practised. At the northern end of the route, Apaneca is a peaceful town of cobbled lanes. The region is also famous for its traditional dancing – over 30 have been identified.

When to go

The best time to take this route is in the dry, season Oct-Feb when plants are in flower (preferably at the weekend when there is a gastronomic festival in the town of Juayúa and the towns are generally livelier than during the week). In May, the coffee plants are in bloom over the hillsides, a glorious sight. It is cooler in the mountains than on the coast.

Language

Spanish

Getting local currency

US dollar. The former local currency( colon) was phased out in 2003. You can obtain US dollar cash or exchange travellers cheques locally in banks and money exchanges (casas de cambio) and may be able to obtain cash advances via the few ATMs in larger towns and cities. You should authorise your bank first, and withdrawals may be limited. Stock up with dollars before setting out on the route.

Time difference

GMT -6 hrs.

Combines with

A visit to the lovely colonial town of Suchitoto, now a centre for culture and the arts; surf and surf lessons on the beaches at El Tunco, El Zonte, El Zunsal and La Libertad, easily accessed from Sonsonate.

Getting there

A visit to the lovely colonial town of Suchitoto, now a centre for culture and the arts; surf and surf lessons on the beaches at El Tunco, El Zonte, El Zunsal and La Libertad, easily accessed from Sonsonate.

Key events

Semana Santa, Easter, throughout El Salvador. Celebrated from Thursday through to Easter Sunday.
Fiesta 19-25 Jun. A religious occasion with music and dancing, including the Danza de los Historiantes exploring the conflict between heretics and Christians.
Christmas festival, Sonsonate, 24-5 Dec. Includes the Danza de los Pastores.

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Pacific Coast

El Salvador’s Pacific coastline is punctuated with small fishing communities and although tourism is in its infancy, there is a range of accommodation available from large, all inclusive resorts to small eco-conscious lodges. Beaches vary from soft white sandy bays to dark volcanic ones. Most of the coast is accessible by road and is generally less than 3hrs hours from the capital San Salvador.

Rugged bays with big breaks are a haven for surfing enthusiasts and many international competitions have been held here. For nature enthusiasts there are 4 species of turtle which frequent the Pacific coast, in addition to an abundance of wading birds. That said, the majority of people who visit the coast just kick back, relax and enjoy juicy sea food washed down with a cold beer.

When to go

The Pacific coast has a tropical climate all year round with temperatures hovering around 30°C. The dry season is Nov-Apr. The rainy season, May-Oct, is characterised by mostly evening and nocturnal showers. El Salvador is an important area for the the endangered Eastern Pacific hawksbill. Nesting months are May and October. Leatherback turtles can also be seen between October and January.

Language

Spanish

Getting local currency

El Salvador uses the US dollar. The former local currency (colon) was phased out in 2003. You can obtain US dollar cash locally in banks and exchange houses and may be able to obtain cash advances from a couple of ATMs in Suchitoto among other large towns and cities. You should authorise your bank first, and withdrawals may be limited.

Time difference

GMT -6 hrs.

Combines with

A visit to the lovely colonial town of Suchitoto, or Antigua in Guatemala; similarly a centre for the arts (6-7hrs by road crossing the land border at La Hechadura); the Ruta del las Flores (112km by road to Juayúa, 1hr 45mins).

Getting there

The area of Costa del Sol is only a 1.5hr drive from San Salvador

Key events

Gastronomic festival of seafood in La Libertad in May.

Things to do on this holiday

Visit Indio Maiz Biological Reserve

Visit El Imposible National Park

Follow the Ruta de las Flores

Walking tour of Suchitoto

Learn to surf on the Nicaraguan Pacific

Visit Masaya volcano and market

Walking tour of Granada

A short boat ride from El Castillo along a jungle-cloaked river leads to the wildlife haven of Indio Maiz Biological Reserve. Astonishingly, this small area boasts more species of trees, birds and insects than are found in the whole continent of Europe.

The biosphere’s rich ecosystems support jaguars, tapirs, manatees, harpy eagles, crocodiles and many other creatures, including colourful poison dart frogs. Following a 2km rainforest trail, you’ll have the chance to observe a large variety of birds under the watchful eyes of tree lizards and playful spider monkeys.

Criss-crossed by a network of jungle trails, the tropical forest of El Imposible is a strikingly beautiful territory of rippled mountain ridges swathed in luscious vegetation. It lies at an altitude of 300m 1,450m so embraces a variety of foliage. The park was named after a steep gorge which cuts through it and impeded the progress of coffee producers trying to move their crops: eventually a series of bridges was constructed.

Trek through the luxuriant rainforest along jungle trails to reach viewpoints over the valleys which splice through the park and spot indigenous birds and wildlife. 400 types of tree thrive in the park, and a number of endangered mammals including puma, tigrillo, wild boar and black crested eagles. Adding to a sense of wild beauty and magic, between January and March the air is often filled with butterflies.

Known as the Ruta de las Flores ('Flower Route') because of the explosion of blooms that appear every winter, this colourful journey passes through quaint villages within the country's most dramatically mountainous region. Highlights include Nahuizalco with its wicker crafts, the pretty mountain town of Juayua where an artistic atmosphere prevails and murals line the streets, and finally the colonial gem of Ataco.

Along the way are plenty of panoramic views to savour, as well as a stop for a tour of a coffee farm with a beautiful old manor house and mill.

Offering a tantalising glimpse of a pre-war El Salvador, this town of pretty plazas and cobbled streets is one of the most pleasant and attractive spots in the country. Its burgeoning arts scene and cultural traditions lend a vibrant ambience to the list of the town's abundant charms.

Wander with a guide around the shady colonnaded streets, past whitewashed houses with wooden balconies and terracotta tiled roofs. There is over a millennium of history to learn about, from pre-Hispanic origins to modern-day cultural revival via strife and civil war.

After your walking tour, take a leisurely boat trip out onto the nearby artificial lake, where hawks, falcons and a great variety of water fowl can be seen in their picturesque natural habitat.

San Juan del Sur's pounding breakers are a drawcard for surfers from all over the world, and it's easy to arrange a surfing lesson at one of the town's reputable surf schools.

Whether it's your first time surfing or you'd just like a few pointers on technique and the chance to test them out in a warm, wild environment famed for its big waves, there are classes for every level of ability.

Peer down from the crater rim of Masaya volcano, where the land falls away along a sheer vertical ridge and fumes belch up from the cauldron of volcanic activity bubbling away below.

From here it's a scenic drive alongside the lagoon of the same name, before eventually arriving at an artisan market where indigenous vendors in traditional costume sell local ceramics, hammocks, wooden ornaments and leather souvenirs.

Perched on the shores of Lake Nicaragua beneath the looming cone of Mombacho volcano, Granada is Central America's oldest continually inhabited city and the jewel in Nicaragua's crown.

Cobbled streets hold an assortment of vibrantly coloured churches, leafy squares and balconied mansions. There remains a strong sense of the past in spite of the destruction of many of the oldest buildings during five centuries that have seen the city variously ransacked by pirates, burned to the ground and invaded by the English, French and Dutch.

Wander Granada's narrow streets, built for the horse and cart rather than motorised vehicles, and soak up the relaxed atmosphere that now prevails in this more tranquil age of Granada's long history. You’ll see the city's most important landmarks, including the baroque church of La Merced, the 16th century San Francisco convent and the historic house of the Zamora family.

Accommodation on this holiday

Perkin Lenca

Tortuga Village

Quinta El Carmen and La Casona

La Posada de Suchitlan

Hotel Villa Paraiso

Victoria Hotel

Luna del Rio

Hotel Patio del Malinche

The simple Perkin Lenca with wooden cabins and bungalows overlooks the rolling green coffee plantations and verdant forests that dominate the area. You can relax on the peaceful porch overlooking the neighbouring mountain range, swing in a hammock or go for walks in the idyllic countryside all around.

Rooms are scattered along the slopes of a steep hill and have a typically rustic decorative style. As should be expected in this off-the-beaten-track region, standards are basic but all the essentials are provided.

There's a good restaurant serving delicious traditional cuisine prepared with ingredients grown on the hotel grounds, and fantastic coffee. The socially conscious owner also helps to run a local school using the hotel proceeds.

The low-key, family-run Tortuga Village sits in blissful isolation on one of El Salvador's most beautiful beaches. Accommodation is in eight delightful circular cottages on stilts, each hovering above a private open-air area replete with hammocks and chairs. Above, sheltered by a palm-thatched roof, the wood-lined bedrooms almost have the feel of treehouses and are simply but stylishly decorated with white furnishings.

The cottages surround a lovely pool, dotted with little islands of palm trees and a row of sunken sun loungers for relaxing in the cool of the water. There's a well regarded seafood restaurant attached too. The beach is just steps away and is an important site for turtle nesting and hatching in season –the hotel runs a conservation project as part of its commitment to protecting the still unspoilt natural environment.

The sister properties La Casona and Quinta El Carmen are both traditional houses that have been refurbished and converted into charming accommodation within the serene grounds of El Carmen coffee estate. While the surroundings feel decidedly rural, the town of Ataco is within walking distance, making this a good choice for those seeking the tranquillity of the countryside without wishing to feel cut off.

La Casona has just six rooms, while Quinta El Carmen has three self-catering rooms each with living room, dining room and terrace, as well as one suite. You can also opt for full board or dinner pre-booked in advance. Décor is authentically Central American, with tiled floors, busy patterns and a cheery feel.

The serene and rustic La Posada de Suchitlan has a sunny atmosphere and truly magnificent views of the valley and Lake Suchitlán from its position on the outer edges of town. Colonial in style, with a typical Central American layout of rooms arranged around courtyards and patios, it brims with local charm and the bright and cheerful décor make rooms and relaxation areas all the more welcoming.

Guestrooms are spacious, with have either a lake or courtyard view (those overlooking the lake also have a private terrace where you can take breakfast). There is a popular restaurant serving highly recommended regional cuisine, and an inviting swimming pool fringed with greenery.

Marooned in the middle of Lake Nicaragua is the dramatic forested island of Ometepe – dominated by the peaks of two volcanoes and fringed by beautiful white sand beaches. Accommodation on the island is simple and in our opinion the best hotel is the friendly, family-owned Villa Paraíso.

Hotel Villa Paraiso enjoys a secluded spot on Playa Santo Domingo, where its cosy cabins sit within a landscaped garden. Most have private bathrooms with hot water; some also have a kitchen. All come with air-conditioning and a front porch with hammocks and chairs to relax in. There is also a thatched bar and restaurant serving traditional Nicaraguan fare.

A variety of activities can be arranged including volcano hikes, trips to the petroglyphs and bike rental.

This family-owned property, Hotel Victoria, is situated on the banks of the jungle-fringed Rio San Juan, a short stroll from the centre of the village. Folksy El Castillo itself - accessible only by river although a new road to Costa Rica passes nearby - consists of a huddle of wooden houses, some on stilts, crouching below the monumental hilltop stone fort built by the Spanish colonists.

The old building has a lovely veranda with river views, warm hospitality and one of only four private generators in town - handy in one of the power cuts which afflict this remote, vehicle-free community. The hotel has recently (2013) been refurbished and the 15 very clean rooms, some with river views, are in very good condition with gleaming wooden walls. There is also a very pleasant al fresco restaurant with river views and a pond with turtles.

Riverside El Castillo is certainly a quirky little place, with its jungle-fringed wooden houses shading vehicle-free lanes and alleys all loomed over by the vast hilltop Spanish fort. You almost have the impression that you are in a Latin American magical realism novel and this feeling is only enhanced if you stay at the Luna del Rio.

This delightful small wooden guesthouse is at the quieter end of town. Perched right on the wide Rio San Juan’s bank, it is managed by its friendly Spanish owner, Margarita, and her husband Miguel. There are just five small rooms with (occasional) hot water and air-conditioning. Two of the rooms have balconies with comfy chairs overlooking the rapids on the river – stay in one of those if you can.

Downstairs is a small bar and you take (an excellent) breakfast on a veranda right at the water's edge: watch the birds dipping and weaving or villagers fishing according to centuries-old practices. Other meals can be taken in restaurants around town; Margarita will take your order and you turn up there at the pre-agreed time. In spite of the opening of a new bridge crossing the river to Costa Rica, El Castillo is still remote: carry a torch for use in a power cut.

The charmingly pretty Hotel Patio del Malinche in a restored colonial building is just two blocks from Granada's central park. It’s a popular and much-loved place where you receive a warm welcome from the Spanish owners, who will bend over backwards to help you.

The hotel offers a tranquil stay in what can be a busy city, with plenty of space to relax in the public areas within the adobe walls of the property. The guestrooms are set hacienda-style around two small courtyards, one with a small pool.

Décor is stylishly minimalist and in keeping with the hotel’s architectural style: wood ceilings, terracotta floors and natural wooden doors. Rooms on the second floor have views of Mombacho Volcano, towering over the city’s colonial skyline. Breakfast can be taken either inside in the restaurant or al fresco overlooking the pool area, and there’s a bar serving cocktails.

Speak to an expert Travel Consultant or send us your enquiry today.

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