Tough start, was pleased to find a good nut and handhold on the slab just round the arête from the small spike, which made life a lot easier but still a 6a move. Pleasant knobbly slab climbing above with plenty of gear to the peg (which was rusty and flexing but there was good gear just below. Standing up on the jug felt pretty exposed and got a bit worried about being blown off by the breeze but it wasn't that strong really. A balancey move to stand up above the jug enabled me to lank for the ledge, so didn't need to use the poor crimp on the face. Not really enough there for an E5 (especially being able to cut out a move) but a nice enough route. Finished in one pitch - the top pitch is mostly easy but has some enjoyable airy 5b jug pulling, finished up a groove in a straight line, a bit to the right of Trevallen Pillar.

Tough start, was pleased to find a good nut and handhold on the slab just round the arête from the small spike, which made life a lot easier but still a 6a move. Pleasant knobbly slab climbing above with plenty of gear to the peg (which was rusty and flexing but there was good gear just below. Standing up on the jug felt pretty exposed and got a bit worried about being blown off by the breeze but it wasn't that strong really. A balancey move to stand up above the jug enabled me to lank for the ledge, so didn't need to use the poor crimp on the face. Not really enough there for an E5 (especially being able to cut out a move) but a nice enough route. Finished in one pitch - the top pitch is mostly easy but has some enjoyable airy 5b jug pulling, finished up a groove in a straight line, a bit to the right of Trevallen Pillar.

Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.

Climbed after Ferdia broke the protruding jug off. Fortunately still a good hold underneath. Happy to find this pretty steady though was close to falling off the last move to the ledge as its a bit of a stretch! Amazing sequence to the ledge.

Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.

Bottom end E5 if you have a good head above gear, but really good climbing. The 6a bit comes right at the start, feels hard especially when wet and slippery from the tide! The moves round the arete are awesome, and the sequence from there to the top is just run-out enough to give a little buzz.

Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag

Did it in 1 rather than 2 pitches and finished up the top groove to the right of trevallen pillar instead of traversing left to finish up that. Seemed an obvious way to finish the route and the ropes are completely straight from ground to top with that finish, so no rope drag

Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate

Sweet top section, felt well bold! Bottom section was still wet and really slippy from tide - bit dodgy, but fantastic technical (easy) climbing on the left side of the arete, and an exposed crux, quite a big reach but not too desperate