It would be a shame to lose such a valuable resource with the old threads on the this forum.
My only issue with the site is the difficulty posting pics.
I thought once I donated this would get easier and I would get more posting MB available but it didn't change so I stopped regular posting.
I am more than happy to donate once again if I can post pics easily like a few years back. (Paypal option is good too - make it as easy and clear as possible)

Heading to the Pedder's Supersprint series this Sunday, August 19th. Bulletime is competing also.
In class with the Evo's!
Class M – Modified turbo, supercharged and 4WD vehicles, there are no restrictions on modifications or tyres. Cars are encouraged to have roll cages but this is not a requirement. Any car with slick tyres will be placed in this class.
https://wintonraceway.com.au/eventinfo/winton-sprint-series/
To answer your question, yes.
DTC fault mode comes on as well as ABS faults, but fine when Stability control turned off.

Stock standard they are under tyred and under braked majorly.
You will find this out very quickly.
Have a read here. I have been building mine for 10 years.
As has been suggested, I would change all fluids. (Brake fluid to a higher boiling point of 300degC plus.)
Power Steering and Diff Oil too.
Winter is a good time to try them out as they will take longer to over heat.
How many kms has the car done and auto or manual? What tyres are currently on it? (Decent R specs will make a massive difference to the car's composure on circuit.)
If concerned about the Turbo oil line filter, just remove it and replace with an Earl's inline or similar.
If you are confident with the exact oil change history of the car, it's not even required.

Thanks mate.
To be honest, I never got a chance to put the throttle down to test at the end of the straight.
Only got a few warm up laps then temps peaked. Came out for 2nd session and water pump blew after the out lap.
The car won't feel as quick with the larger rolling dia rears in theory but they seem hook up very well.
I'm there again on Monday 11th to test.

No, definitely not.
Public school kid here.
BMW 'cause cheap 1 series, I worked hard (now nearly 50yo)...….and I always wanted one.
Wanted an M2 but too expensive and the kids don't fit.
Do you now have more respect for me now knowing my socioeconomic status?....:)
Owning a beemer now, I definitely feel more inclined to try and drive with extra courtesy to alter driver perception.
Blew a water pump a few laps in last week and that was it for my day.
(Towed to Goilburn for the fix)
The 295 40 18 profile hoosier R7's grip was off the charts though.
Even with the rake angle change (higher rear - putting more weight over the front), the car still seemed planted in the back end, even in slow corners without the wing working.
Please load pics if you get a chance.

Keith mate, can you post those imgur hoosier pics for me. Thanks!
The sheer height of them and size of them is scary due to the 40 offset, seen compared to a 295 30 18 A050 in the pic.
Think it was 6.2% diameter increase (over stock) so may finally be able to use a higher E85 boost tune on circuit that may still hold 2nd?

All good mate, but since day 1, all mods done to this car are about form not function.
To comply with some events, tyres have to be within bodywork.
I'm still on the fence with them. The inner metsl guard edges have been spot welded for strength, and may get a neater job done in fiberglass one day.

The radiator end fittings/brackets are different on BF/FG.
I tried but failed to get Fenix to make me an FG one again, but that may have changed. Was a few years back.
Forgot to mention I use a heat proof foam shrouding which forces all air through the radiator more efficiently.
Is your engine stock?
In my opinion, I'd just go in winter, run a richer tune (if tuned) with less boost if not chasing a lap time to keep temps down.
I've noticed some of my high power/boost 23psi tunes on E85 really bring the coolant temp up a lot more quickly than say a 21psi tune. No surprises there.
Stock radiator will be fine in temps under 15deg ambient which Goulburn is in winter. 1st 2 sessions are usually in single figures deg C.
Cars this heavy perform well though as they still heat tyres/brakes very quickly in extra cold conditions. They thrive at 5degC with dry air.
Plenty of cool down laps are still a must. Monitor temps with a watchdog alarm sensor on the thermostat housing.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENGINE-WATCHDOG-TM2-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-GAUGE-ALARM-Aussie-Made/142780461502?hash=item213e60f1be:g:DcMAAMXQcVNQ8-jf
These are awesome. Set at 115deg. Loud alarm when over 115deg. Drops rapidly when back off throttle and start cool down. Beauty of it is you never need to worry or watch temp gauges. Just focus brain power on lines, turn in and braking points.
To answer your question, I'm doing the circuit club day for Winton this year in August. You should come along. Awesome track!

Hi mate, Colder thermostat makes no difference once you are over the rated temp. Once it's open, it's open. Colder thermostat delays this slightly though but in my experience at a track day, the engine block heat soak never allows temps to get back to under 80-85 without a 2 hour break. (Ambient dependant)
To answer your questions:
I've used 2 X 55mm PWR radiators, 1 X Fenix, 1 X Chinese ebay radiator and 2 stock. PWR seems to be the best but 1st one died due to stray current (possibly poor installation or crash causing rubbing: metal/metal) PWR suck with warranty. Fenix are awesome with warranty but don't make for FG anymore. BF ok though. Check end bracket fittings though as quality varies. My second PWR 55mm V8 one is going fine but very close to belt/fans. Works better shrouded in heat proof foam and spacer at back of bonnet. Manual thermos fan over ride switch is currently working for me keeping coolant temps under 85deg in staging pit area.
Re: Engine oil coolers. Highly recommended. Mine sits behind fog light with a thermos fan pulling air through. Switch on manually usually on 2nd session of a track day. More complicated relay versions are available that turn on automatically at a preset temp but I like to keep it reliable and simple.
Redline water wetter and Purple Ice didn't really do much.
The real secret is..................go in winter.
Take a big floor mounted fan and drive about 5kms up the road at low rpm 100kmh after a session for adequate cool down.
I'll be at Wakefield with a few other XR6T May 30th with Trackschool. Can you make it?
Feel free to PM me too.