we can adjust both, tho using stock ca's, cam bolts are used to adjust the caster with the lower arm.. to put your caster to 6 you need to shorten the jks arm... stock lower arms are 15 3/4", the front uppers are 15". most aftermarket fixed lower arms are 16", aftermarket adjustable uppers adjust down to 15.5" and fixed aftermarket upper arms are also 15.5" .
it's a resonable assumption that shortening the jks lowers will help with the track bar rub, depending on the track bar.

the reason for adjusting the uppers instead of the lowers is it reduces the amount of wheel base change...

what adjustable track bar are you running?... post a pic in the track bar thread of the rub if you can.

THE End-all, Be-all TJ alignment thread to be sure. I have learned more from this single source than any other. Thanks to you Flatlander for all the info., and to all who ask the right questions. I am subscribed. So far, I solved my Death Wobble with a $20 balance. Thanx again. BART

THE End-all, Be-all TJ alignment thread to be sure. I have learned more from this single source than any other. Thanks to you Flatlander for all the info., and to all who ask the right questions. I am subscribed. So far, I solved my Death Wobble with a $20 balance. Thanx again. BART

Glad it helped you!

I'm getting close to finishing the front suspension on my 1 ton TJ.. once I have it up and running and legal and inspected I'll be sure to get an alignment and post the results

Had my alignment checked out a few days ago. Checked this thread before I went. I've got -0.1 camber on the right front, and I don't consider that to be enough to require a $90 ball joint and $200 of install labor. Am I wrong? And why would I have -0.1 on a stock Rubi? Running the new 245/75/16 Wrangler MT/Rs.

Had my alignment checked out a few days ago. Checked this thread before I went. I've got -0.1 camber on the right front, and I don't consider that to be enough to require a $90 ball joint and $200 of install labor. Am I wrong? And why would I have -0.1 on a stock Rubi? Running the new 245/75/16 Wrangler MT/Rs.

prolly cuz the dude that checked it wanted something to do and diddn't go bang on the tire to make it read in spec....

I wouldn't worry about it.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable

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My camber spec is -0.9 degrees left side, and -0.6 degrees right side. Just found out today. Considering adjustable ball joints to be able to adjust. My alignment guy told me that he thinks it's a borderline call if it's worth the cost of adjustable ball joints, and he thinks I could just ignore and rotate more often.

However, I think I want the adjustable ball joints. What do you guys think?

I now have a Rancho drop pitman arm intended for a 2.5" lift install and it seems to be OK on my 2.75" lift.

I now have my new JKS adjustable front trackbar installed and adjusted, but I don't like it because clearance to front diff cover (still the Riddler on there) looks bad. It looks to me like the front trackbar will hit the front diff cover when suspsension compresses on a hard bump.

I like the looks of the Nth Degree front trackbar kit and drop pitman arm better. Looks like more clearance to front diff cover. Also looks like a stiffer and stronger front trackbar. So I'm thinking of getting an Nth Degree front trackbar kit and Nth Degree drop pitman arm (they go together) and replacing the JKS front trackbar and Rancho drop pitman arm.

However, here is my concern. The Nth Degree trackbar kit and Nth drop pitman arm say they require 3" of lift or more to work.

I have 2.75" of lift on front, and approx same on rear. Would the Nth Degree front trackbar kit and Nth drop pitman arm work for me?Would the Nth Degree front trackbar clear engine and front axle during suspension compression?

Also, which would be better for 2.75" lift, an Nth Degree or Currie adjustable front trackbar?