Day 2 – Ulleri to Ghorepani and Poon Hill

An overnight storm does wonders. All the dust clogging up the sky and obscuring the mountains gets hammered by hailstones back down to earth, leaving the air clear and crisp. When our before dawn alarms woke us, we were delighted to see the crescent moon sitting neatly above the hills against clear skies.

The Majestic guest house has an outdoor area for breakfast, and from there we had spectacular views of Annapurna South (7,219m) and Hiunchuli (6,441m). Wrapped up warm in the cold but windless morning, we watched the sunrise against the mountain peaks, plumes of water began to unfurl as the early sunshine melted ice on the caps. We took it all in over a pot of fresh tea and cinnamon porridge.

Below us the world began to wake up, the birds doing their dawn chorus. Against the Himalayan backdrop we watched early risers perform their morning yoga rituals. Our muscles were tight, they’d ceased up overnight – just climbing the steps to breakfast hurt, all that yoga stretching looked difficult.

Sam and Paul at UlleriTea and mountainsView from breakfast

Ulleri to Nangge Thanti

We left Ulleri early, on the trail at 8am. Given how clear the skies were I was keen to get to Ghorepani in time for sunset at Poon Hill, while having no idea of the actual distance – it meant I was keen to keep moving, despite Big D and Samantha’s “slowly, slowly” mantra. We, of course, had plenty of time. No rush.

As we left we met Nick, a young Brit trekking by himself, he was on holiday, taking a break from volunteering with palestinian refugees in Jordan. Shortly we were joined by a Canadian couple, they travelled light and their guide was a yoga expert – though I wouldn’t say they seemed at peace with the world. At 3-sisters Machapuchare lodge we enjoyed a break and a glimpse of the fishtail peak as it sprung out from behind the hills.

A break at 3-sisters Machapuchare

As we walked the clear panoramic views that hug the hillside gave way to rhododendron forests. Streams trickled through the jungle-like forest, here and there the rhododendrons were in bloom; some had flowered too early and were frostbitten, others radiated colour in pink and red. Buddhist prayer flags strung up between them. Donkeys passed us, carrying empty gas canisters, bells clanging.

Donkeys and gasRhododendrons in bloomBig D waiting for us to catch up

The day was another warm one, and in shorts and t-shirt we were again very hot. Yet in the shade of the trees we found clusters of hailstones that hadn’t melted, little balls of ice piled high amongst the roots of gnarly trees.

Today’s journey has about the same amount of climb as day 1, but it’s more gentle, and as we rose to higher altitudes we didn’t notice it so much. The pace was slower, the incline shallower, and the shade kept us cool. Today’s hike was entirely pleasant. When we stopped for lunch in Nangge Thanti we were two-thirds there, and we felt good. At Lali Guran’s guesthouse we sat beneath a parasol and ordered fried potatoes and dal bhat.

Almost… lunch… time…Paul and Big D resting before lunchLunch!

Nangge Thanti to Ghorepani

We finished lunch at midday and trekked onwards towards Ghorepani, the literal translation means “horse water”. The skies above us still blue, the sun still shining; we were hopeful for fabulous views at Poon Hill.

We took the final third at a good pace, there weren’t many places to stop, and higher up the air was cooler. More hailstones littered the forest floor and the rhododendrons were more abundant. Every now and then a little stone wall appeared; these rest points are dotted along all the trails, they’re ledges set at just the right height to rest your bag and have a sit down. Sam took some time out for a 4 minute meditation while I snacked on chocolate.

Hailstones and shorts

As we neared the end we noticed the altitude, each step was a little more laboured, our hearts were beating faster, but the symptoms were mild and we were happy to keep going (nothing as bad as our ‘afternoon hike’ in Songpan). We emerged from the trees and a golden archway greeted us, “Welcome to Ghorepani Poon Hill”, high above us to our left, the Poon Hill summit and telecoms tower. We were now at 2,860m – Poon Hill sits at 3,197m.

After the TIMS checkpoint we made the final ascent into Ghorepani village. Big D was proud of the lodge he’d booked for us, “it’s new”, “you’ve got the best room” – “Snow View Lodge and Restaurant” was the best lodge we stayed in. Our room was spacious, made of bricks and concrete and soundproofed from the building work outside, it had its own toilet and shower, and gave us great views out towards the mountains. From our beds, with a hot cup of mint tea, we admired the views of distant Dhaulagiri, the 7th highest mountain in the world. Then we rested and showered – plenty of time to climb Poon Hill before sunset.

We made it to Ghorepani. Big D, Samantha, Hari and PaulView from “Snow View Lodge and Restaurant”Building work in Ghorepani, donkey after donkey bringing more rocks

Our first Poon Hill ascent

Resting felt like the right thing at the time, and we needed it. But when we awoke and left with Big D to climb Poon Hill for sunset, well – everything was different now. From nowhere the clouds had closed in, all the mountain peaks we’d seen before now hidden, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri were gone. The whole of Poon Hill was shrouded in cloud and as we began our climb we were surrounded in thick, cold fog.

Climbing Poon Hill, still hopeful for views

Big D, as usual, was in good humour. Maybe it’ll be clear at the top? Maybe it’ll clear? Who knows. We climbed anyway. It’s about a mile, we left at 4pm and arrived shortly after 5pm. We hadn’t acclimatised, the climb felt difficult – the same journey the following morning wasn’t nearly as tough. The fog didn’t abate, the higher we climbed the happier I was, the greater chance we’d rise above the cloud. From the telecoms tower, up further, to the peak; we made it, and as we arrived a slither of sunshine poked through.

We danced with Ukrainians at the top, a little sun dance to send away the clouds, it didn’t work. We’re up here, so we’ll wait until sundown, just in case. With us were two German medics who were thinking the same – Felix and Fred, this wasn’t the first time they’d climbed to a top viewpoint in Nepal and seen nothing.

Samantha at the top of Poon HillPoon Hill viewing tower and a slither of blue skyOur view from Poon Hill

We watched and waited, and waited. At times it looked like it would clear, the hills to the West would materialise, the floor in the valley to the East would come and go. But the mountains were stubborn, or shy, they would not be disturbed. From the white viewing tower at the top we watched as the light faded, we made one last wish – and to bait the views, I put away my camera. “Annapurna South”, Big D shouted. My trick had worked. Out of nothing, and for the briefest moment, the summit of Annapurna South could be seen, majestic in the late evening light. And then it was gone, and that was it, the show was over.

Annapurna South peeking out at Poon Hill

Downstairs at Snow View Lodge we had our first taste of Tibetan bread, or Gurung bread – it goes by various names – it’s fried and slightly sweet – like a doughnut, and it’s entirely delicious. We ordered it with veg curry, veg momos, apple pie and banana fritters.