It has definitely been done, but why? Today, we have several MTB tubular rim options.

The problem is not necessarily the strength of the rim, but the width and the profile of the rim bed. With a modern MTB tubular, you need a wider rim with a radius that matches the tire in order to get a good glue job.

It has definitely been done, but why? Today, we have several MTB tubular rim options.

Because they're $127 for a 250g rim, so lighter than Enve, Innolite, etc, on par with AX-Lightness, but about 1/6 the price... Never seen another open mould tub rim <300g - as I said, the LB ones are 320g, Eliflap's ones up there ^^ are 380g.

23mm width seemed relatively wide, I did wonder if you'd have enough surface area to get a decent bond, MTB tub tape looks to be 25mm, so you'd be on the border I reckon, I'd not want to go too wide on the tyres.

That would probably fall under the category of 'false economies'. You will not get anywhere near the performance with a rim not designed for the purpose.

Before there were MTB tubular wheels, people were experimenting with 650c rims and custom tubulars. As soon as the concept was proven-out and rims became available, it didn't make any sense to take the risk. In my basement, I have a set of old(er), 650c Zipp 404s that I got off a Tri-gal that I was preparing to build-up for my MTB Frankenbike. Fortunately, I didn't have to build them, as MTB tubular-specific rims became available.

You are not only looking at the width of the basetape, you need to be aware of the radius of the curvature for the basetape to maximize the contact surface for the glue.

Mmm, which was my thought. Thing is that there's no weight saving with all the other open mould rims (indeed Eliflap's are heavier than my LB clinchers) and I'm not prepared to spend AX Lightness money, so it seems a pretty pointless exercise. Shame.

Well, lighter weight is not really the best reason for running tubulars for MTB. For me, principal reason for tubulars is so that you can run lower tire pressures with a lower risk of either pinch flats, in the case of clinchers, or the risk of burping, if using tubeless. The concept is similar to the use of tubulars at lower pressures for 'cross.

Geoff, how often do you ding your tubular rims on the ground? I feel like that's going to be one of the big advantages for me - i'll be able to run lower pressures which on a tubeless clincher would have resulted in too many dings of rim on ground/rock. i don't think this will be as much of a problem with the tubular rims because the rims themselves don't have as tall a profile nor are they as fragile if they do happen to touch the ground meaning lower pressures are still safe.

i think i run the pressures that i do to prevent dinging rims on the ground, as much as a i do to prevent burping. I weigh about 2x"geoffs" though, so there's that...

Now, I will say that at least part of the reason is that I am not a 'DH-type' guy. Really, I run the MTB more as a fun, recreational tool to get a break from the road (or when there is too much ice and snow on the road). Accordingly, where there is a choice of descents, I'm not the guy pitching over the top of the rock garden...

I have 26" setup currently for racing. XTR hubs on Geax rims and geax saguro tyres which quite frankly are brilliant. I run them at 30 psi and the grip is endless almost. The off camber grip is good too when going through ruts, roots e.t.c. The ride quality is superb also I no longer get blister forming on my hands in a race. The tyres are quite heavy though and are only 2.0" wide. I have not flatted them yet in 7 races. I carry Geax pitstop with me just in case.

If you did a 28 spoke DT Swiss 240 build with the straight pull hubs and chinese carbon rims it would be 1500g in weight but it would be very stiff. I have some lightweight (1350g) alloy clincher 26" wheels using DT Swiss 350 rims and they are abit on the flexible side.

A DT swiss build on chinese carbon rim or FRM carbon tubular rims if I could afford them would be my choice.

I just bought a pair of Remerx tubular rims to try. I'm still on 26 inch, and the rims weigh about 375g each, which isn't bad at all. The Ambrosio's I had before were a more porky 440g. I will see how they build up.

Well I have raced on them twice and rode on them a few more times and the rims are good. They are very stiff and because of that they have remained true. Given the mud that is about now I have to ditch the tubs for a tubeless set up (better tyre choice) but I will be back on them in the new year unless those geax suguaros actually turn up. Been waiting far too long.

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