Best of the City 2010: four ways that humble ice cream is made magnificent

Diners at the chic communal table struggle bravely to retain an air of ironic detachment in the face of three scoops of rich, smooth house-made ice cream—chocolate, vanilla and strawberry—sprinkled with berries and toasted nuts and perched atop halved bananas and a chewy brownie. $12.

Cream Soda FloatOrigin107 King St. E., 416-603-8009

As pink and frothy as a sweet 16 party, the concoction’s deep blush comes from Crush cream soda and a spurt of grenadine. The float arrives in a beer mug, the soft‑serve ice cream mingling with the soda to create something not quite liquid, not quite solid, and all delicious. $9.

Sicilian-Style Ice Cream BriocheXococava1560 Yonge St., 416-979-9916

A fancy take on an ice cream sandwich, Xococava’s sweet, flaky brioche envelops one of a dozen house-made flavours. Our picks: Ontario strawberry, Madagascar chocolate and a phenomenally intense pistachio. Available Saturday and Sunday. $5.75.