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My only question is though, my FJO is reading 10.0:1 at WOT from 3300--->redline with the map included with my UTEC. Since the timing between each has not changed wouldn't this yeild even MORE rich conditions?

Originally posted by DiMensionX Look at your Mod IGN column and then look at that RPM range in your map. I think you had knock and the UTEC backed the timing out on you, also dropping boost slightly. Thats my guess...

The MAP signal does fluctuate and is particularly noticable once you get onto boost. This is because the MAP sensor is fast enough to detect fluctuation within the manifold. The air flow and pressure within a manifold is not constant due to the opening and closing of valves, turbo fluctuations etc. The UTEC uses a short averaged MAP for load points but the data in the loggers is the faster reacting MAP signal.

The faster data was primarily used by us for analysing boost controller performance.

Boost gauges generally provide an averaged reading however some gauges will show a vibrating needle indicating a pulsating pressure within the manifold.

For the next revision of software we have used a longer averaged MAP signal for various functions including the loggers. The loggers will then produce a "smooth" MAP curve similiar to that displayed on your boost gauge.

Just curious ScoobieSnaX. You mentioned that you go richer than 10:1 or peg 10:1 on your FJO. I did the SAME thing when I first got the UTEC because I forgot to switch the manual switch to map 1 from map 0. Map 0 being just the stock ECU so the car pretty much falls on it's face rich once you get into boost.

Just a thought... I was used to tuning the Link which only had one map in there at a time .

If the hesitation you are speaking about occurred on the run that you showed in your datalog, it was caused by the UTEC pulling timing in the 5600-6000rpm range. Dropping from 23 degrees to 15 degrees and back to 23 degrees in a matter of 200-300 rpm will cause a noticeable hesitation (by design!).

Since your FJO says you are running rich, I would take out 1 degree of timing from 5500 to 6000 rpm and see if the knock goes away. If it does, you may be able to lean the car back out to 10.5-10.7:1 on pump gas (as long as knock does not return). If it does not (and you are sure you are rich) take out another 0.5 degree and keep going.

A BOV opening and closing under boost will also cause a surging, but this is an unlikely event. It should be easy enough to replace the BOV with the stocker, however and rule this out. In any case, you need to get your WRX running knock free first through some tuning.