Transitioning To 100% Natural Hair Care

My transition to 100% natural hair care began September 2011 when I wanted to eliminate all chemical ingredients for a simple and healthier approach to beautiful hair. It all started with the DIY Green Tea Cleansing Hair Rinse and later the DIY Herbal Hair Rinse, which I used to cleanse my hair with a natural oil for conditioning and styling. I’d previously loved and used rhassoul clay as a hair cleanser since February 2010 (and still do), yet at the time was also using store bought conditioners. I also hadn’t discovered the amazing benefits of henna or other herbal washes for my hair, and still had a lot to learn.

In January 2012 I fell off my 100% natural hair care regimen while trying The Curly Girl Method, and once again using store bought natural conditioners as well as making my own. I was still using henna consistently, yet little did I really understand synthetic conditioner ingredients and their effects on hair or the environment. Fast forward to now where I am only using natural ingredients for my hair care and have once again eliminated synthetic “naturally derived” conditioner ingredients.

Even with my consistent use of natural products as well as “natural” store bought products over the years, I still experienced a transitioning process with 100% natural hair care which I wanted to share with you.

Synthetic ingredients such as silicones, betremonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, etc. leave a coating on the hair which takes time to detox completely from your hair strands. When I initially stopped using store bought products my hair felt a little dry, and at one point my ends literally felt like velcro and were sticking to each other. A simple hair treatment of bentonite clay and apple cider vinegar made my hair feel amazing and the velcro ends were long gone. This simple treatment helped remove any left over build up from my hair.

I used a couple of methods to deal with the feeling of dry hair during this transition time. First incorporating mucilage herbs such as marshmallow root, and humectants such as vegetable glycerin into my hair cleanser was extremely helpful. This allowed easy detangling and added moisture. I also used simple solutions such as “the baggy method” overnight by spritzing the ends of my hair with aloe vera and wrapping the ends of my hair with a reusable shower cap. I would even deep condition my hair overnight for extra moisture retention with various mixes such as coconut milk, vegetable glycerin, and a natural oil.

I’m realizing most of all that it is what you wash your hair with that makes the biggest difference with how your hair feels.

After my hair was completely detoxed, my curls actually felt soft without conditioner especially with my most recent DIY Herbal Hair Cleansers. My scalp is finally balanced and producing more sebum versus being dry, itchy, and irritated. This transitioning process took me two months to completely detox my hair the first time in 2011, and two to three weeks the second time this past January. It did take some time to get used to how my hair felt without any synthetic coatings. I absolutely love it!

This is my personal experience having dry curly hair. Those transitioning to 100% natural hair care with oily hair will have their own unique experience while detoxing their hair. Synthetic ingredients and strong detergents in store bought shampoos and conditioners usually create a consistent cycle of imbalance to the hair by excessively stripping the natural oils from our hair and scalp and replacing dehydrated stripped hair with softening chemicals. Those with dry hair can experience flaky scalp, itching and irritation while those with oily hair experience overly abundant sebum production.

For those who are on the no-poo 100% chemical-free hair journey, I’d love to start the conversation below. What is working for you, and what isn’t working at all? How is your transition going?

Read this series to understand why chemical free hair care is so important to me including tons of tips about going 100% no-poo.

(Image by Dawn Michelle)

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Hi verona,
When I make flaxseed gel I actually stir in an oil or butter after it is strained. I add a few drops of essential oils at this time too. You can add a teaspoon up to a tablespoon of oil or butter depending on your hair needs and preferences. You can also put the flaxseed gel into the blender/food processor to thoroughly mix in the oil or butter. I do not cook the flaxseeds in water for more than 10-15 minutes so it is never too thick and very easy to mix in any other ingredients that I want add.
Hope this helps <3

Hi Dawn! I must start by saying that you are one of two blogs that I faithfully read, and of the two, I feel that you pursue a cleaner, simpler life without compromising your honesty and integrity. I trust and believe that what you reccommend as far as procedures, tips, products is thoroughly researched, tried and evaluated for cleanness and effectiveness. You are to be commended for that!

I have used many of the ideas, tips and procedures that you have written about, and I feel I have a better understanding of what my curly, dry, frizzy hair needs. Some changes I have made based on your blog: using rhassoul clay to detox, coconut milk/oil deep condish (even keep in overnight wearing plastic wrap and a beanie), your DIY detangler (aloe, glycerin, rosemary, lemongrass) which I use first thing out of the shower and henna for the first time a few months back. Those are huge changes from my previous routines/products.

I still feel like I need to moisturizer with a conditioner after I use the detangler, and then use a styling product to clump my curls and reduce the frizz, especially now with the increased summer humidity. Conditioners are usually Shea Moisture, Alaffia or Aubrey. If I shampoo I use Alaffia, and my current holding/styling gel is from Botticelli Curls (etsy).

Since I am not a huge DIY person, I keep watching to see if you are going to come out with your own line of hair care products. Do you think adding glycerin or aloe to the clay would be helpful when shampooing? I’m not sure when and how to use the glycerin. How about shampooing with coconut milk?

Btw…thank you for your blogs on henna. I am 75% gray and have always colored my hair, but decided to try the henna a few months back, and I love it! I’m hoping with continued use, my hair will continue to show improvement.

Again, thanks for a blog that doesn’t review and promote a mega amount of products that have “some” questionable ingredients and are given to the bloggers for review. How many people (myself included at times) are in a constant pursuit of the next “perfect product” that they must have.

Thank you so much for such a beautiful comment. I am so happy that the information on Minimalist Beauty has been so helpful to you. It always means a lot to me to know that others are having a transforming experience with what I have been writing over the years.

Check out this article to see how I mix my hair cleansers. I think it will help to add a mucilage herb and humectant to increase moisture to your rhassoul clay hair wash. You can always play around with adding one teaspoon to one tablespoon of vegetable glycerin to your deep conditioners as well as your hair cleansers to see what your hair likes the best. Also I am so happy that you are having a great experience using henna!

I will be coming out with my own product line soon. I’m hoping to launch at the end of this year. I have so much to do in the meantime and have been working hard on it. Thank you so much for asking, and it is good to know that there is interest in it already.

Yes you can use henna on bleached hair, yet there are a few things that you should consider. The henna will strengthen any damage that the bleach may have caused, but you will also experience two toned hair as your hair grows out as the henna may respond differently to your virgin hair. Another thing to consider is that color that you would like to achieve.

If you use regular body art quality henna without the mix of indigo or cassia, you will be going for a red tone. If you’d like to have another color I’d look into the henna mixes by Mountain Rose Herbs or Light Mountain Hair Color. Do a strand test before dyeing your hair and also note that it may take a few applications of henna to achieve your desired color.

You can also slowly trim the damaged hair along the way. This will give a healthier appearance to your hair overall. Here’s a tutorial on one of the easiest ways to trim hair by yourself that I’ve found.

I have started my natural transition in the last month. As a result of a temporary move, most of my hair and skin care products accidentally ended up in the back of a short term storage locker. And so I decided to plunge head first into a natural hair in skin care regimen. (skin care is going great! am using lots of honey, ACV, cinnamon, nutmeg, jojoba oil and vitamin e/tea tree oil).

Anyway, stumbled on your site because my hair care is not going nearly as well– I’m still in the greasy mess stage. I have very coily curls that I’ve been flattening out with “keratin” treatments. After my last treatment in March, I had a bad reaction– I think it was basically a toxic overload from the keratin that had me in digestive fits (shudders). I have been trying to cleanse with honey (it was already in the bathroom), but have really disliked that method– I think I need that “slip” you talk about in some posts. I’ve also mixed the honey with my coco milk and jojoba oil, more slip and heavier hair.

In any event, I found you and minimalist beauty trying to figure out what to try next and I couldn’t be more delighted. I am looking forward to testing out some of your recommendations.

One thing I’ve noticed that you mention in several posts is that you’re constantly experimenting. How long do you recommend trying a new product/addition to your routine before trying something new?

Thanks again for your lovely site! I can tell you’ve invested a lot of time in sharing your knowledge with us!

I’m so happy that you are enjoying the site, and yes I have put my heart and soul into it. The transition period that your hair undergoes when using all natural hair care can vary per person and can be a big adjustment in many ways. I’m not sure if you saw this article yet, but it includes a ton of natural hair cleansing options that may help. You may find that aritha or a clay may work well for cleansing your hair. You could even try using a clay to make your own dry shampoo. I haven’t had a need to make one myself since my scalp does not produce excess sebum, yet I have seen a few clay dry shampoo recipes online.

I’m sorry that you had a bad experience with your last keratin treatment. It’s hard to really know all of the chemicals in salon products or how you will respond to it. I am glad that you are having a successful transition to natural skin care though. Best wishes with everything and thanks for your comment!

I am struggling with extremely dry hair currently. I have been natural for almost 8 years and have never had such difficulty. I have always used natural products and have closely examined labels. I just recently stopped using Aubrey’s HSR due to the honeysuckle debate( in that it reacts a lot like a paraben). In addition in use, alma oil, jojoba oil, aloe Vera gel, marshmallow root, and I stopped using shea although I love it because it’s giving me scalp buildup( although I’m only using it on my hair)

Do you think I still need a major detox based on that regimen. I recently dyed my hair with Herbatint and since then my hair has not been the same. I am not sure if it was old, or if that would make a difference? I have never had this issue with any color before including less “natural” ones.

Most likely the dryness is due to the Herbatint hair color especially since you noted that your hair hasn’t been the same since. I’ve never experienced benefits to coloring my hair with anything other than henna mixed with coconut milk. I think deep conditioning your hair would really help with your hair dryness. Some of my favorites are coconut milk alone or with banana or avocado even. You can add a bit of oil or honey/glycerin to the mix as well. Apply to damp or wet hair and cover in a conditioning cap for at least 30 minutes or more if you have the time. If your hair responds well to this treatment, do as many treatments as you can until your hair feels good again. I wrote about some natural leave-ins and deep conditioners in this article.
Hope this helps and keep me posted!

Hi Dawn, thank for the article!
I made a rhassoul clay shampoo mix today with ACV, AVJ, avocado oil, slippery elm and some essential oils added. It cleaned well but now that my hair is dry I can see a lot of flaking in the front of my head. I rinsed it out very thoroughly. A few months ago when I tried to clay mix I had the same problem so only did 2 or three shampoos and abandoned. That recipe was store bought and very oily so I owed the flaking to that. I only put 3 tablespoons in a big batch so this one wasn’t oily at but still I’m flaking. Is this part of the detox process do you think?
Thanks

I’m not exactly sure why you are experiencing flakes, but I will say that both apple cider vinegar and aloe vera are both acidic. When creating your own products with two acidic mixtures you would need pH strips to make sure that the product is pH balanced for your skin and hair. I’d suggest only using either aloe vera or apple cider vinegar but not both. My preference would be aloe with rhassoul clay.

Also depending upon the condition of your hair and scalp before beginning your transition to natural beauty products, you most likely are experiencing some form of detox. You can also try scalp massages prior to cleansing your hair which is also wonderful for healthy hair growth. You can use a light carrier oil depending on your skin type. Another option is neem oil instead of avocado oil for your mix. Neem oil is fantastic for scalp issues although it does have a very strong scent. You could also use neem oil for your scalp massage before washing your hair.

Thanks for the reply Dawn. I didn’t think that it went through so I posted another question on a different post today. Must be my cache. Please ignore the other one.
I did try the clay with just aloe juice and made a lighter mixture. I didn’t get the huge flakes but I don’t think it got my scalp as clean as i’d like. I have always had scalp problems though. I have read good things about neem oil so will give that a go as well. Thank you for your help.
It’s funny because I’m a lifelong natural but adopting a new hair regimen is tough!

Your blog is a wealth of information! I enjoy reading it and have learned a great deal from your posts; thank you!

I wonder if you could give me some advice or point me in the right direction?

My hair is a mixture of curls and waves ranging from 2c to 3b. It is very thick on on the dry side. I have spent years blowing it out and using a flat iron and have recently decided to embrace the curls and see if I can improve my curl definition. I have been looking into the Curly Girl Method but I don’t want to use synthetic conditioners.

I have hard water where I live but plan on installing a filter to help with that. I also have on hand bentonite clay, glycerin, yucca root powder, soapnuts, amla powder, fenugreek seed powder and nettle leaf powder.

I am ready to experiment. Could you tell me your thoughts on where to start to cleanse and moisturize my hair while enhancing the curl?

Thanks so much for the compliment! For starters deep conditioning your hair would really help with reviving your curls and providing moisture. I wrote this chemical-free hair care series which will also give you tons of ideas on how to use the ingredients that you have on hand as well as incorporating some other ingredients that you can pick up from the grocery store. It is a four part series that discusses cleanser, conditioners, leave-in, and creating a hair care routine. If you have been using heat a lot on your hair and your curls are not the healthiest you may also want to do small trims to slowly eliminate any heat damage. This article may help you too.

I’ve been transitioning since 1/1/14. I must say it has been a journey. I’m loving it though:) For 30 years of chemical, or color in my hair, I’m surprised how quick it is transitioning. With the help from your site and AMAZING tips, my hair is transitioning much better.

In this photo of you my hair looks very similar.

How did you get your curls to become more defined, and hydrated hair. I’m in my mid forties so I’m afraid to do a big chop unsure how it will respond.

I have low porosity hair and protein sensitive. My hair does not respond well to Aloe Vera products. Yet, loves oils and Shea Butter, and DIY conditioner. I cleanse with water, mid-week and Rahassoul clay & coconut milk on Sunday, and do a monthly Henna. Aside having patience can you suggest anything.

Keep up the great work:)

BTH.. in one of your photos wearing a white jump suit. You had on a gorgeous layered necklace. Where did you get the jumpsuit and necklace?

I hope you are having a great day! In this photo my hair had definitely been stretched with a braid out and rebraided each night to further stretch it over a few days. Deep conditioning treatments really help with hydrating hair. My hair also loves water so I fully saturate my hair very very often.

You will not be able to see the true texture of your hair until you have fully transitioned. I give tips on transitioning in this article. You will also most likely adjust your current hair regimen to meet the needs of your natural hair the more that it grows out.

Lastly the white jumpsuit was a gift I received years ago. It could actually be 10 years old at this point. The necklace is one of my own designs from my Etsy store Azuha. That exact style necklace isn’t currently up, but the store is having a 40%-50% off sale right now.

Hi GG,
I am currently inspired to create new pieces, yet may bring this style back in the future. This style of layered necklace is actually a crocheted fiber necklace. Other pieces that I create are sterling silver and semi-precious stones. Enjoy your weekend!

this blog is awesome! I’ve just read several of your posts and I think I’m finally ready to quit conventional shampoo and conditioner. I’ve done a loooooot of reading online and the time is now! question, do I need to make sure my hair has shed its coating of silicones n stuff before I do any henna? I’d hate to be sealing in synthetic things when I coat my hair in henna.

Thanks Emily!
If you are concerned about you hair still being coated with unnatural chemicals you can always do a hair detox treatment with bentonite clay mixed with apple cider vinegar. This combination has the perfect pH balance for hair and rally does the job. Add some essential oils for scent. Best wishes!

Hi Dawn! First, I LOVE your site-it’s been so helpful and inspirational in my journey toward 100% natural products, so thank you!! But, I need some help 🙁 I don’t know if I’m doing it wrong or what, but with every recipe I’ve tried for my hair (a typically dry “3C”), I have an awful time with tangles in and out of the shower-a problem I never really had with all of the chemical-laden products (well of course, all that silicone sure helps!) But it seems no matter how many slippery ingredients I use, I end up pulling out so much hair in the shower, and after styling (or at least trying to)? It somehow feels oily and like straw at the same time! I’ve always had dry hair (dark blonde, highlights), but have always managed to keep it moisturized and pretty under-control before. Oh, and for years I’ve only washed or co-washed once each week. I really don’t want to go back to the chemical dark side, but I’m starting to lose faith! 🙁 Any advice? Please help if you can!! Thank you :S

Color treated hair is going to respond differently than virgin hair to any hair product store bought or 100% natural. Deep conditioning will help of course. Also there is a transition period that we all go through who go the natural route. Most likely your hair needs detoxing from products with chemicals and silicone which can take at least a month.

Try using clay washes as they help with detangling the hair while also clarifying/detoxing and cleansing. I like mixing bentonite clay with apple cider vinegar and rhassoul clay with aloe vera juice. I write about these two clays here. You must mix clay with an acidic liquid for it to be a healthy pH for skin and hair. Lastly you may want to finger detangle prior to washing by adding a bit of oil to dry hair. Modifying your regimen will be necessary as you learn more about your hair with chemical-free hair care. I hope this helps!