Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

^ There HAS to be oud in there! My nose can't be THAT broken.... Perhaps, what I'm smelling is some high quality amber that I'm not used to? Either way on with the samples!

Kobe
I don't really have much to say on this one. It's one of the most beautiful and natural neroli notes I've ever smelled. It's really that good. The only other neroli note that I've found to smell as good is the one in MFK APOM PH, which smells a TON like Kobe, really the similarities are striking. My nose isn't nearly good enough to discern which is better quality between two high quality nerolis such as APOM and Kobe, I just know it's good. I get some juiciness too, perhaps from the petitgrain, but really not much else. Another favorite neroli of mine, Armani Prive Orangher Alhambra, employs some herbs and wood to flank a comparetively lower quality orange blossom note, but Kobe just lets the main player shine. It's truly beautiful, but I'm not sure I'm willing to spend the cash on APOM 2/5 the price of Kobe, because I find a neroli-centric fragrance to satisfy a very distinct niche in my wardrobe, that spending that much would be pointless. The same rule would apply to Kobe, it's beautiful, but I question its functionality.

Mefisto
Those that mention the similarity with Silver Mountain Water, are spot on. As I was dabbing the sample on, the fumes coming off my skin were almost identical to SMW, I got the distinct tea and black currant notes that I get from SMW, perhaps just slightly smoother/not as sharp. Upon bringing my nose to my wrist, I was pleasantly surprised that up close it smells almost nothing like Silver Mountain Water, but oddly enough smells a little like Millesime Imperial, which I'm guessing is a combination of the bergamot and iris. Again, this is going to sound like a broken record, but this is really high quality stuff. I've always been confident in saying Creed is high quality juice, and it still is, but this stuff just blows away Silver Mountain Water in the natural department.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

While there may be oud in Modoc, I think it's the vetiver (they're using a drier vetiver), a sandalwood synthetic (the same used in Tam Dao, this I am almost sure of) and the iris which smooths and rounds them out to smell a lot like an oud note. Perhaps the ambergris utilized is contributing too, as I see ambergris is another common note shared between Modoc and Tam Dao.

After getting over a horrible bout of chemical sensitivity I can now wear and enjoy Modoc so I'll be re-evaluating it soonish, along with all of the Xerjoffs.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

While there may be oud in Modoc, I think it's the vetiver (they're using a drier vetiver), a sandalwood synthetic (the same used in Tam Dao, this I am almost sure of) and the iris which smooths and rounds them out to smell a lot like an oud note. Perhaps the ambergris utilized is contributing too, as I see ambergris is another common note shared between Modoc and Tam Dao.

After getting over a horrible bout of chemical sensitivity I can now wear and enjoy Modoc so I'll be re-evaluating it soonish, along with all of the Xerjoffs.

Im going to check into this and let everyone know if there is any Oud in Modoc. I am so glad SoS that you are liking Modoc. I really love this scent. It has a unique sort of sensuality. Really nice on a cold day as it has a warm smoothness that I like. I cant wait to read our update!

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Fior d'Ulivo
Since I purchased this for my mother (you have to treat them now and then) I've asked her to do a write up of what she thought, so here goes.

Having received a sample quite a few months ago, I instantly fell in love with this fragrance and it is now my all time favourite scent.
Everytime I spay this, it instantly takes me back to my holiday's in Lake Garda and Limone, Italy. Walking through the lovely gardens and smelling the olive blooms and lemon trees, I can shut my eyes and this instantly transports me back there. This is an excellent fresh perfume, I suppose it could be unisex but Craig is not getting his hands on this one. The fresh citrus and olive bloom notes mix together with the floral notes, which mention lotus flower, jasmine and magnolia and then amber and musk add a nice warmth to the dry down. This lasts a very long time on me and although Craig purchased this for me which came as a nice surprise, with me being retired I wouldn't normally dream of spending this amount of money on any perfume. In this case however, this is the first perfume that I can honestly say I would treat myself to when I run out of this bottle. It is simply that good and worth every penny in my opinion, I love it. Thank you Xerjoff for such a wonderful perfume
Regards,
Elaine

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Here's my initial impression of Mefisto... this is absolutely gorgeous. I don't find it very similar to Silver Mountain Water - this I find has a plumper, bright opening and the Bergamot and Lavender is incredible. I just put this on as my SOTD and I've been sitting here doing nothing but enjoying it for 10 minutes. Add this to the must-try/buy list of Xerjoff.

I've only swiped Homme so far, but I can say that it's one of the most incredible leather scents I've ever encountered. It sits nicely in between Knize Ten and Indult Reve en Cuir. Incredibly natural, gorgeously aromatic, and definitely top notch quality. Those looking for a leather holy grail must give it a try.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

While there may be oud in Modoc, I think it's the vetiver (they're using a drier vetiver), a sandalwood synthetic (the same used in Tam Dao, this I am almost sure of) and the iris which smooths and rounds them out to smell a lot like an oud note. Perhaps the ambergris utilized is contributing too, as I see ambergris is another common note shared between Modoc and Tam Dao.

After getting over a horrible bout of chemical sensitivity I can now wear and enjoy Modoc so I'll be re-evaluating it soonish, along with all of the Xerjoffs.

But you DO smell what I'm smelling right SOS? It's a very dry, resinous and sweet wood tone, that I find smells very much like the oud I've experienced in scents like Duro or M7. You may be right, that it's a combination of notes creating a whole new accord, but I'm relieved to know that I'm not alone in this.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by jrd4t

Here's my initial impression of Mefisto... this is absolutely gorgeous. I don't find it very similar to Silver Mountain Water - this I find has a plumper, bright opening and the Bergamot and Lavender is incredible. I just put this on as my SOTD and I've been sitting here doing nothing but enjoying it for 10 minutes. Add this to the must-try/buy list of Xerjoff.

I've only swiped Homme so far, but I can say that it's one of the most incredible leather scents I've ever encountered. It sits nicely in between Knize Ten and Indult Reve en Cuir. Incredibly natural, gorgeously aromatic, and definitely top notch quality. Those looking for a leather holy grail must give it a try.

The lavender in Mefisto, escapes my nose. I'm not a huge fan of lavender, unless it's truly masterfully blended, but I will admit to not being able to pick it out if it's only a tiny minor note. Generally if it's anything more than a complete afterthought though, it will register with me. And it didn't in Mefisto. Like I said, thank you to Cairo for printing the Modoc note list, which is more comprehensive than anywhere else I can find (including Xerjoff's own website). Most places list only a few notes (i.e bergamot, lavender, iris and vetiver for Mefisto) and I'd fight to the death that there are more notes than just that, the tea is unmistakable to my nose!

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Modoc answer is here...

There is no Oud in Modoc at all. In addition, it is not just the list of notes that will give the idea of what is in the scent. What makes one fragrance different from the others is the type, quality and distillation techniques. So, the simple list of ingredients will not explain everything about the fragrance, In MODOC the vetyver is fractionate distilled, so is less dry and earthy and more transparent and than is mixed with real butter of Orris (iris) which gives the "dry paper feel" in Modoc. ( So Iris does not smooth other components but the other way around... It pushes the dryness up.) Also there is absinthium on the head notes which also is giving character to the first impact of Modoc.

Some perfume houses imitate OUD with some synthetic or palissander wood to make a OUD LIKE version to make it more acceptable to the western taste. There is not that effect here. On top Xerjoff stressed that they DO NOT EVER use synthetic sandalwood.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by mtgprox05

The lavender in Mefisto, escapes my nose. I'm not a huge fan of lavender, unless it's truly masterfully blended, but I will admit to not being able to pick it out if it's only a tiny minor note. Generally if it's anything more than a complete afterthought though, it will register with me. And it didn't in Mefisto. Like I said, thank you to Cairo for printing the Modoc note list, which is more comprehensive than anywhere else I can find (including Xerjoff's own website). Most places list only a few notes (i.e bergamot, lavender, iris and vetiver for Mefisto) and I'd fight to the death that there are more notes than just that, the tea is unmistakable to my nose!

You're totally right with saying there are other nuances in there like tea, etc. I'm sensing a few that aren't listed, a tea note being one of them. I'm finding the lavender in it to be an incredibly dusty, smooth note that dies back after a short while - not the harsher type usually associated with most scents with lavender. The bergamot seems to come back in force late in the dry down (and a hint of patchouli... was that even listed?), which is unusual to me (but fabulous!). I'll be surprised if I don't end up picking a bottle of this up before long.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by cairomerta

Modoc answer is here...

There is no Oud in Modoc at all. In addition, it is not just the list of notes that will give the idea of what is in the scent. What makes one fragrance different from the others is the type, quality and distillation techniques. So, the simple list of ingredients will not explain everything about the fragrance, In MODOC the vetyver is fractionate distilled, so is less dry and earthy and more transparent and than is mixed with real butter of Orris (iris) which gives the "dry paper feel" in Modoc. ( So Iris does not smooth other components but the other way around... It pushes the dryness up.) Also there is absinthium on the head notes which also is giving character to the first impact of Modoc.

Some perfume houses imitate OUD with some synthetic or palissander wood to make a OUD LIKE version to make it more acceptable to the western taste. There is not that effect here. On top Xerjoff stressed that they DO NOT EVER use synthetic sandalwood.

Thats the official answer

Cairomerta

Interesting. Thanks for the info Cairo.

I don't see the using synthetic sandalwood as a bad thing, though. True mysore does not project much and would need to take up a disproportionate amount of a formula to project or last at all when sitting alongside the stronger synthetic notes, hence I would think that most modern natural/synth blends would need to bolster any real sandalwood with some synthetics to give it some more oomph.

At any rate, I just want to clarify that my surmising that there was synthetic sandalwood in there wasn't a slam on the scent. There are obviously a lot of synthetics as well as naturals in these scents, and there's nothing wrong with that at all.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

Interesting. Thanks for the info Cairo.

I don't see the using synthetic sandalwood as a bad thing, though. True mysore does not project much and would need to take up a disproportionate amount of a formula to project or last at all when sitting alongside the stronger synthetic notes, hence I would think that most modern natural/synth blends would need to bolster any real sandalwood with some synthetics to give it some more oomph.

At any rate, I just want to clarify that my surmising that there was synthetic sandalwood in there wasn't a slam on the scent. There are obviously a lot of synthetics as well as naturals in these scents, and there's nothing wrong with that at all.

No problem SoS. I was just wanting to clarify that because Xerjoff really takes pride in the Mysore they source as well as the use of high amounts of natural ingredients they use. For example, since we are speaking about Modoc, the earthquake in Haiti has caused production issues with Modoc because they are having trouble getting the Haitian Vetiver. Instead of substituting it with anything else... the wait until they can get it.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by cairomerta

No problem SoS. I was just wanting to clarify that because Xerjoff really takes pride in the Mysore they source as well as the use of high amounts of natural ingredients they use. For example, since we are speaking about Modoc, the earthquake in Haiti has caused production issues with Modoc because they are having trouble getting the Haitian Vetiver. Instead of substituting it with anything else... the wait until they can get it.

Cairo, I really appreciate all of your effort to investigate and inform us all regarding Xerjoff. I have a big favor to ask though, do you think it is possible that you could find out who the nose(s) is/are behind these scents. I know I am really curious and I think a lot of others are, too. Thanks!

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

Cairo, I really appreciate all of your effort to investigate and inform us all regarding Xerjoff. I have a big favor to ask though, do you think it is possible that you could find out who the nose(s) is/are behind these scents. I know I am really curious and I think a lot of others are, too. Thanks!

No problem at all. It's my pleasure!!! I know Robertet is involved with the scents but I will see what else I can find for you. Thanks again!

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul

Cairo, I really appreciate all of your effort to investigate and inform us all regarding Xerjoff. I have a big favor to ask though, do you think it is possible that you could find out who the nose(s) is/are behind these scents. I know I am really curious and I think a lot of others are, too. Thanks!

I'm very curious about this as well. I hope Cairo will be able to let us know their names.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Continuing with :

Kobe:
Neroli from Italy, Bergamot, Orange, rosewood, petitgrain, oud.

Claiming to contain an extraordinary neroli distillation, Kobe manages to back up that claim. It opens with an excellent neroli bigarade note, one of the very few that can challenge the startlingly clear and natural neroli bigarade note of Creeds Citrus Bigarade. The neroli is surrounded by juice oranges to make it plump and plush, and the citrus combo is then ushered into a woody phase dominated by lots of petitgrain and aromatic rosewood. The citrus woods backend extends the longevity beyond 4 hours. If I concentrate hard I can smell a tinny animalic woods note...I can't tell if its oud or oud as a I know it. Overall Kobe is made with great materials, is very easy to enjoy and bath in, and the most likely out of the line to make me swipe my credit card with a bottle in hand.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread (All samples sent out today)

Today I'm sampling ELLE...

I liked this before I put it on my skin, right upon opening the vial. It has a lovely strength and smoothness to it that I find very attractive. Color-wise, this would be a clear, sunny gold. Weather... a bright breezy spring day (not unlike today).

The floral citrus start is quite lovely and ... how can I say this? Sophisticated... ageless. I'm reacting more emotionally to this scent than to other Xerjoffs I've tested so far. This scent makes me smile. And it is to my mind quite feminine. (I believe men who like a lighter, slightly sweeter floral scent might also find this wearable.)

The heart is indeed an iris-leather-wood... I love that the patchouli notes in the Xerjoffs are smooth and soft and not dirty (as "dirty" patch wouldn't fit in these.) There is a smooth subtlety to the drydown that almost makes this seem "linear" but not in a nondimensional way, in the same way that, for example, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle keeps coming up with slight variations on the topnotes all the way through to the base.

I don't find anything soapy or powdery about this parfum at all... just a shimmering clear impression of a beautiful spring floral, with a softening, yet still clear very soft musk with very soft amber/faint vanilla/faint myrrh in the base.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

(xposted to the Xerjoff sniffaroo thread on the Female Fragrances discussion)

Flore d'Ulivo

Green-tea like out of the vial… immediately get a lovely bergamot citrus note and a not unlike Aqua di Parma Colonia Intensa's top (but softer.) Do I smell mandarin? It's a nice fresh not too sweet opening. Since I have no reference for Lotus and Olive (other than russian olive which is very strong but NOT anything like I'm smelling here) I can only say that what I'm smelling is a little spicy and tea-like floral bouquet… with hints of damp earth (the LOVELY smell of damp earth)… which means to me the Jasmine may be emerging.

Another comparison to Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mirto di Panarea in the heart … and I'm smelling a woody subtle possible magnolia here as well as the spicy jasmine.

Doesn't last that long for me but that's an issue I have with many scents. The drydown may be a little too "quiet" on my dryish skin as a result. And I haven't been moisturizing the day I wore this... so if I get a chance I'll try it again after unscented moisturizer's applied.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Xposted to women's frag forum...Xerjoff Sniffaroo thread...

Mefisto

Another tea-like opening not unlike but not as floral as Fiore d'Ulivo…and spicy tea at that. Creamy spicy tea with a little bergamot, this is a nice Earl Grey. Bergamot coming to the fore now, and yes, maybe that is a little very lovely and nonmedicinal lavender in there. It's not screaming lavender but is blended very nicely with the bergamot… I think rose is the tea-like note too… this smells more like a fine Earl Grey tea than anything else to my nose. Just compared the heart with the top on the other hand and the lavender is there, only just apparent at the beginning, just such a nice blending with the other notes.

The heart is definitely a soft rose/iris, with the bergamot singing softly in the background…this is a softly rich floral heart with a hint of spiciness. Quite understated, elegant, quiet.

I'm going to moisturize my hands and reapply this, as it's really 'dying' now on my skin… so that I can give a better report. It still smells really nice but it's only been a half hour since I applied it, and it seems to have gone to the base notes and be fading rapidly.

After moisturizing… yes, the scent is faring better on my skin now. This is one SMOOTH operator… I'm imagining an Armani-suited individual who wears this scent …someone who wears quality but doesn't make a point of flaunting it. The slightly spicy, (and yes, ever so slightly leathery) iris and rose are singing from my skin. Very summery and light, and I imagine amazingly Italian.

I really have nothing else to compare it to, but there were moments of the rose from Montale Black Aoud (sans the oud, but with the Iris woodiness) here. It has that same lovely darkness about it… like a warm summer night.

Edit: I can say that it has analagous notes to the Fiore d'Ulivo... it's the nighttime, while Fiore d'Ulivo the daytime.

We'll see how its longevity is, but this is a lovely scent that would be a great unisex perfume.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Its interesting. I have never put lotion on before my perfume. I know that future developments from Xerjoff will be a lotion line. Currently they are developing Elle lotion which will be first marketed in Russia. Elle is the top selling women's in Russia. They drink the stuff up!

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Originally Posted by cairomerta

Hi Mtg. No I didnt buy the company. I have partnered with Xerjoff in Italy to distribute the line in the USA. I essentially setup Xerjoff USA and am an arm of Xerjoff Italy but based in the USA. I have full authority and rights to distribute, promote and market the brand here in the USA. Thank you very much though for the kind words!!!

A full congradulations Cairomerta!
Wonderful oppurtunity with the distinct advantage of genuine personal enthusiasm for the line.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Just a quick Reminder:

Next Monday the 10th I will be giving away one bottle of Mefisto for men and Fiore D'Ulivo for women compliments of Xerjoff. the winner will be chosen by a random # generator. The winning number will correspond to the review number in each of the Woman's and Mens Xerjoff reviews thread. Anyone who received samples, get your reviews in and increase your odd to win. This is just a little thank you from to you all for you time to review.

Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

Today it's UDEN Review
When I first sampled this I wasn't that keen. I think it was mainly because it is different from what I normally go for, but having returned to this over the last few days I definitely like it. It's classed as a marine fougere and is meant to conjure up the white limestone cliffs of the Amalfi in Southern Italy and if that region smells as good as this, then I certainly want to go there for a holiday. It's an extremely fresh uplifting scent, plenty of citrus at first and I can smell grapefruit and what appears to be lemon and/or bergamot. Rum absolute is mentioned in the heart notes and I can smell this, before the amber and vanilla and musk come through in the bass notes. Coffee is also listed as one of the notes, but it's possibly buried in the mix as I can't smell this.
This is another top quality fragrance from Xerjoff and very long lasting. It's now 4 hours since I sprayed it and I can still smell this on me. The only other marine perfume I've ever tried is i Profumi di Firenze Brezza di Mare which is a superb fragrance in its own right. There's a slight resemblance in the top notes, but the Xerjoff completely blows the Firenze out of the water (or sea) in my opinion, so a big thumbs up from me. 10/10