Look in any hamshack today and you’re gonna be hard pressed not to find a computer sharing space with the tranceiver. We them for, most importantly, buying equipment, but also for logging QSOs, looking up someone’s details from their callsign, looking for active DX spots…

OR, operating digitally! In this first episode of a series on operating digitally, we’ll begin by hooking up a SignaLink to an Elecraft KX3….

Now this is a cool little device made by the folks over at SotaBeams in the UK that lets you test your antenna’s actual transmit propagation in real time. It uses the WSPR protocol (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) originally developed by Joe Taylor K1JT. (Quite an interesting guy, you should look him up.) Now WSPR is open source and still actively worked on. Please find relevant links below.

I’m not going to tell you how to install the support software, as that’s all very well documented when you buy the unit. The point of this episode is just to go over what it does. So, let’s go straight into the setup app where you can update the firmware and set up the device for operation.

After you plug the WSPRlite in to the computer, pick the correct COM port and click CONNECT.

Every so often, I click Update firmware, to make sure it’s current.

Then, enter your callsign and first 4 digits of your QTH locator. Currently WSPRnet only uses the first 4.

Honestly, I’m not sure what the CW callsign checkbox is for, so I ignore it. If you know, please post in the comments below and share your knowledge.

Choose the band you wish to test. Once you pick a band, it will pick a random frequency in the WSPR accepted range.

The flexi version of the WSPRlite has lowpass filters for 20 & 30 meter bands built in. You may need to get some external lowpass filters for any other band you wish to test, depending upon where you are operating from. The WSPRlite will work without them, but you may end up operating out of bounds depending upon your location. Something to keep in mind. I don’t have any other lowpass filters yet, but they’re on the way if I need them.

Then, pick your power output. I’ve just been leaving it at the default 200 mW which, when using the WSPR protocol is equivalent to 1000 watts of SSB. I’m not using an external amplifier, so I leave the Reported power at it’s default.

They suggest leaving the Repeat rate at 30%, so that you’re not hogging the frequency every minute. I’ve also left the Max runtime at it’s default of 3 days.

At the bottom is a very important link. This will send you to your own, personal DXplorer.net report page for your specific device. We’ll get to that later, for now, go ahead and click Open in browser, then, when it opens, bookmark that link. I think it will generate a new link per band.

Lastly, go back up and click Save WSPR Settings.

That’s it, you’re done. Unplug the device and let’s get set up to transmit.

I use my radio power supply,…

… and plug it into the SotaBeams Power Conditioner. When I didn’t use this, the power supply generated an ugly buzz in the transmission. So, I bought this conditioner as a kit, and haven’t had an issue since.

Plug it into the WSPRlite

Connect the feed line…

Which goes to my Emtech ZM-2 QRP tuner which I’ve posted a pictorial write-up on the build previously, see that link below.

On the ZM-2, flip the switch to TUNE and fiddle with the knobs until the light goes out, or as dim as possible. If you turn the knobs to the stops and the light stays bright, try Adding picoFarads and keep trying. I took my time here. At 200 mW, I wasn’t too worried about overheating anything. When done, flip the left switch to Operate which takes the LED out of the circuit and give you the least resistance on the line.

Done, you’re now transmitting. Give it a while to transmit for a few minutes, and then go to the above mentioned DXplorer.net link you got from the setup app.

The DX10 Table shows you a list of your best 10, in range every 2 minutes or so.

The Graph is a visual representation of the data points of all your connections. In every report, you can choose a time frame snapshot.

The Spots map is … well, self explanatory.

The Spots table shows you all your spots, most recent on top.

If you’ve tested on other bands, you can swap over to them here.

And there you have it. This is a very useful bit of kit that lets you see just how well your antenna is working based on it’s configuration and current propagation conditions. For around $80 and it’s diminutive size and weight, I highly recommend it. You get a very accurate, real-time picture of how long your radio’s arms are at that moment. Especially in our current solar minimums, it’s quite handy to test out where you can reach.

If this video was helpful in any way, please, give us a thumbs up. If you have any questions on the WSPRlite flexi, please post them below. I’m no real expert, but I’ll be happy to get back to you with what I know.

After buying a WSPRLite I decided I needed a QRP antenna tuner. I was first looking at the QRP Kits SOTA tuner, but after a recommendation I took a look at Emtech’s ZM-2. I looked at a couple others, but after reading a bunch of Eham.net Reviews, the ZM-2 looked to be the best choice for me. The ZM-2 comes as a relatively easy kit, so what follows are some pics of my build. I followed the instructions and the video advice from W5CYF.

Keep in mind, I’m not very good at soldering… yet, so be kind.

The Kit

Start by winding the toroids.

This was an easier process than I thought it was going to be. Even the little one, I was a bit concerned that I was going to snap the little wire, but it snugged up nicely. I gotta say, I don’t like soldering the heat removable coating on the little wire. I was never sure it was hot enough to melt and get a good connection. I also read the instructions wrong and didn’t leave enough red wire on the large toroid, and so had to create a pigtail for that end. There was plenty of wire in the kit, so that wasn’t a problem in the end.

Setting up the LED

I ended up having to go buy some helping hands and a head mount magnifier to do this part, which worked out for later parts as well. My eyes ain’t what they used to be apparently.

Attaching the front face decal, after spraying 4 coats of Krylon.

Installing the Faceplate.

Here are the switches, connectors, and variable capacitors installed. If you build one of these, don’t attach the right poly cap knob until after you screw the faceplate into the box. The right-bottom screw ends up being under that knob by half a screw width.

Final Components and wiring.

The area near the two main switches was a bit fiddly and mine looks ugly, but there’s no shorts.

Final Product

It seems to work, but there’s some issues I don’t understand yet. I put out an email to Emtech, but never got a reply. I’ll try calling them. Y’all can expect a video of it in action in the very near future.

I was SO excited for field day this year, as it was the first year I’d be operating from the comforts of my own shack. My wife and I recently moved out of a 7th floor loft in downtown Dallas and into a house in the burbs of Jackson MS. This wonderfully opened up my antenna options. Alas, the first antenna I put up failed miserably due to my terrible balun building skills (I’m improving, albeit slowly). The second one did much better, being store bought. At least… I could hear frequencies. I diligently ran my feed line through my attic and out the soffit to hang the center of a 120′ wire dipole off the corner of my house.

I then spent the rest of the week boning up on on digital modes, my CW skills (still not great), the rules, field day operating practices, and testing to make sure my radio could hear on the bands.

It did, swimmingly.

The Friday before Field Day, I tried listening to the W1AW bulletin via phone and CW, but couldn’t quite bring them in. So I pulled it using PSK31, which worked quite well. Which turns out, in the end, to be prophetic.

So, Saturday 1pm Central, station K5HH 1E MS was open for business. I actually heard CQs kick up at 12:58, but who’s counting. I then proceeded to spend the next 3 hours able to hear other stations on 20, 40, and 80 meter bands, but nobody, NO body, could hear me. I just couldn’t reach out and touch anyone. I tried Phone, CW, and PSK31. Heck, I even tried RTTY which I’d never used before. So I thought my field day was a bust. Deciding to run through my whole setup to make sure I had everything connected and hooked up properly, I started with my radio TX settings, then my connectors, then tested my feed lines, which led me to try to change where my feed point was hung. I moved it away from the house (and the metal gutter), and raised it about 6 extra feet. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! My FIRST try on phone was heard just fine, as they didn’t ask for any repeats. That’s when my day finally started, around 6pm central. I did SSB phone for a while, but one of my goals was to actually work CW for the first time, which I finally did. I did have a hard time breaking through the pileups on CW, so late that night I tried PSK31, which is where I spent the remainder of my field day.

I didn’t rack up a great many QSOs, or points for that matter, but I did double what I got last year, so I’ll take it. I did make contact with a couple friends in Texas though. More importantly, I learned a LOT about setting up my home shack, and had a great deal of fun doing it. I’m incredibly impressed with how long my battery lasted. CW remains a challenge for me, but that’s just going to take practice. Next year, I think I’ll go back to 100w and see what I can accomplish.

This is the perfect portable antenna for me. Apparently, I’m hard on antennas. I’ve managed to break my BuddiPole. I’ve fixed it, but I need something more robust. So, I started looking for something that could take a beating, is light, easily configurable, and can handle watt ranges from QRP to at least 100 watts. After much searching and research, I settled on the CHA TD Lite system from Chameleon Antennas.

So…in order to become licensed Ham Radio Operators, the FCC does not require us to know Morse Code (CW) anymore. I must admit, once I found out that they USED to require it, I felt a bit cheap by comparison to the old (I use that term loosely) guys & gals.

However, did that bother me enough to go through the trouble of learning CW? Well, not really…

Aaaaannnnnd, THIS is where irony smacks me in the head. I then fall down a YouTube rabbit hole watching hams have great fun at LONG distances, on very low power levels, only using CW. Making connections off Aurora Borealis, the Moon, asteroids, and the occasional low flying birds. Now, I’m interested, which brings up the ole question, am I interested enough to go through the above said trouble?

Well, apparently so.

Now, I’m learning CW with a computer app, just bought an Elecraft KX3 and have signed up for a course on CW Academy. Back down the rabbit hole… This one of my own making.

I’ll keep this site posted as to my progress, and any helpful tips I find along the way.

I absolutely LOVE this little radio! It is my first ham radio, and is what I used to make my first ever ham radio QSO with KD5LQD. If for no other reason that that, it has secured a soft spot in my heart forever.

However, there are plenty of other reasons to love this little guy. Little though it may be, it is absolutely packed with features and abilities. I’m using the Diamond NR770HNMO antenna on my car, and I did upgrade the rubber ducky (you’re the one) to the Diamond SRH320A.