We mocked up our small-block with a Milodon oil pan, along with a Tremec five-speed to see how everything would fit the first time in.

Even though the last '67 Mustang left the assembly line over four decades ago, you can still find relatively rust-free examples driving around the Southwest and West Coast regions of this fine country. While all the hi-po 289 models and Shelbys have long since been snapped up, there are many pedestrian inline six-cylinder ponycars left. Such was the case with CC's '67 Mustang that Editor Glad ran across two years ago on Craigslist, which we purchased for $2,000. It was a great example of grandma-bashed, since both ends were bent and it was plenty shabby in the middle. But all the basic components were in place. Over the past 24 months, we've been slowly resurrecting this notchback from its neglected state, and now that most of the bodywork is complete and the suspension is ready to do a little apex clipping, the next piece of the puzzle is to put some horsepower to it. We managed to not blow up the '88 Mustang 5.0L engine we used for the supercharger testing in the Sept. '07 issue ("Make 600 HP on Pump Gas"), so for now horsepower will come via natural aspiration.

Our first move called for the classic six-to-eight engine swap that car crafters have been practicing for almost as long as inline six-poppers have existed. For some cars, this swap is ridiculously easy, while others like our Mustang demand a few new parts to complete the swap. We thought it worthwhile to illuminate all the details involved with dumping the dead 200ci inline-six for our much more lively 390hp 5.0L. Plus, we'll include some great information on swapping in a Tremec T5 five-speed with help from Bruce Couture at Modern Driveline. We'll break this presentation up into several categories and fill you in on all the part numbers from the companies that helped us pull this off, so you have a very specific parts list that will help when it comes time to do your own version of the six-to-eight shuffle.

EngineOur first task was to remove the original inline 200ci six and the automatic trans. Since the Car Craft shop was full to the brim with other projects, Tim Moore offered to help us with the swap. So with the epoxy primer barely dry from the body shop session, we began the destruction phase of our engine swap. Earlier in our suspension-upgrade session, we noticed that the six-cylinder's original engine crossmember was mysteriously missing. Knowing that we had to have a V-8 version, this was no great loss. An Internet search turned up Cobra Automotive, which offers not only a performance version of the engine crossmember, but also an outstanding reinforced manual steering centerlink that allows us to get rid of that clunky Mustang ram-assisted power steering. We'll save that for a future story.

We quickly ran up quite a list of parts needed to complete just the engine portion of this swap. Perhaps the most confusing part involves Ford's use of external balance weights on the harmonic balancer and the attendant accessory drive. All early Ford V-8 small-blocks used a 28-ounce external offset weight for both the harmonic balancer and the flywheel/flexplate until 1980, when Ford changed this value to 50 ounces. This was important for us since we would be using an '88 Mustang 5.0L engine. We also decided to go with a mechanical fuel pump assembly rather than mess with an electric pump at this time. This demanded some changes to the engine's front dress and a new front balancer. We found what we needed with a Professional Products balancer that includes both three- and four-bolt crank pulley bolt patterns, since Ford changed that bolt pattern along the way to make life interesting.

But we weren't quite ready yet, because our 5.0L engine was designed for a Fox-body Mustang. This meant the oil pan wasn't going to clear the Mustang's engine crossmember, requiring an oil pan swap. We also intend to punish this pony on the road course, so we opted for a Milodon road-race oil pan along with a new oil pump, drive, and windage tray. With our new engine parts and the V-8 crossmember, we could think about dropping the motor in place.

PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION

PN

SOURCE

PRICE

Edelbrock RPM Air Gap

7521

{{{Summit}}} Racing

$237.95

Edelbrock fuel pump

1725

Summit Racing

91.95

Edelbrock fuel line kit

81243

Summit Racing

N.A.

Edelbrock fuel filter

8129

Summit Racing

39.39

Milodon oil pan

31600

Summit Racing

349.95

Milodon oil pump

18800

Summit Racing

78.69

Milodon oil pump drive

22500

Summit Racing

20.95

Milodon windage tray

32210

Summit Racing

49.95

Milodon windage tray studs

81157

Summit Racing

37.95

Milodon 180 thermostat

16406

Summit Racing

15.95

MSD distributor, Pro Billet

8598

Summit Racing

268.60

MSD Blaster SS coil

8207

Summit Racing

43.10

MSD distributor hold-down

8010

Summit Racing

40.60

MSD 8.5mm plug wire kit

31079

Summit Racing

74.10

Pro Products balancer

80007

Custom Performance Racing

87.99

Pro Products 50 oz weight

91007

Custom Performance Racing

16.99

Year One timing cover

FJ1701

Year One

145.00

8/16

Cobra Automotive's competition front crossmember is just the ticket to help keep the front suspension glued together when we start putting the power to the pavement. We also added a pair of V-8 frame mounts from NPD just above the crossmember.

Engine CompartmentBefore we could drop the engine in, we needed to tie the two halves of the front suspension together with a V-8 front crossmember that was missing when we bought the Mustang. Cobra Automotive came to our rescue with a high-strength piece that was born out of competition requirements. We also realized that the inline six-cylinder throttle linkage would not work, necessitating a trip to NPD's Ventura, California, outlet, which also had the V-8 frame mounts we needed. All we had left was replumbing the new stainless steel fuel line from Classic Tube, adding some new battery cables from MAD Enterprises, and lengthening a few wires in the charging system to retain the stock alternator (for now), and the engine compartment was ready.

PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION

PN

SOURCE

PRICE

Classic Tube tank to carb

MUF1007

Classic Tube

$89.00

Classic Tube rear brake hose

MUH7006

Classic Tube

39.95

Cobra front crossmember

336-1010

Cobra Automotive

194.95

Cobra reinforced centerlink

{{{100}}}-25823-G

Cobra Automotive

215.00

Year One fuel sending unit

FJ230

Year One

35.95

Year One motor mounts

XH51

Year One

149.00

MAD battery cables

1/O-1

MAD Enterprises

3.75/ft

NPD frame mount

6028-9-1A

NPD

99.95

NPD frame mount bolt kit

6028-1K

NPD

14.00

NPD carb throttle rod

9A702-1A

NPD

10.95

NPD carb rod mount kit

9A703

NPD

6.95

NPD throttle rod bushing

379000-S

NPD

3.32

NPD bellcrank assembly

9725-1

NPD

35.00

NPD bellcrank mount kit

9725-2AK

NPD

2.00

NPD throttle pedal

9735-1A

NPD

9.25

NPD throttle pedal mount

9735-1K

NPD

1.95

NPD throttle return spring

9737-1

NPD

3.00

NPD throttle spring bracket

9741-1B

NPD

8.95

NPD throttle rod seal

9793-1A

NPD

1.50

NPD throttle rod clip, RH

9825-1

NPD

0.50

NPD throttle rod clip, LH

9826-1

NPD

0.50

9/16

The Be Cool aluminum radiator assembly comes just as you see here, with a pair of 11-inch-diameter Spal electric fans to help airflow and cooling efficiency. At a later date, we may go to a high-tech Spal fan controller. The Spal fans also come with relays to protect the switching mechanism.

CoolingAdding a 390hp small-block and putting it through its paces on a road course generates a major heat load into the cooling system, so we knew our little Mustang was going to need a serious heat exchanger to avoid overheating issues. Be Cool has recently integrated a three-tier radiator selection into its entire line, ranging from an inexpensive generic one-row aluminum radiator all the way up to its top-of-the-line cooling system, which includes a pair of Spal electric fans. We decided to go with a modular system: a 27-inch-wide, two-row, 1-inch-tube aluminum radiator with a pair of 11-inch electric Spal fans and a very elegant aluminum mounting system. This complete package is a bit pricey, but we like the idea of a simple bolt-in system with an electric fan so we don't have to pay a horsepower penalty with a mechanical fan. The radiator required moving the battery to the trunk and relocating the voltage regulator. For less money and a little more fabrication time, you could go with a universal radiator with a traditional engine-driven fan and save a few bucks. The final piece in the cooling system puzzle is an Edelbrock aluminum water pump that is far more efficient than a stock pump, which is what we need once the road course flogging begins. There are two choices for small-block Ford water pumps, since the inlets can be spec'd with either a driver-side or passenger-side inlet, and this must match up with the radiator. We went with the driver-side inlet on the water pump to match the Be Cool radiator.

PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION

PN

SOURCE

PRICE

Be Cool radiator assembly

80187

Be Cool

$1,299.95

Edelbrock water pump

8843

{{{Summit}}} Racing

159.95

10/16

Part of the kit we received from Modern Driveline included a complete nodular iron flywheel, a clutch set with throwout bearings, pilot bushing, an alignment tool, and a pressure-plate assembly. The iron flywheel is the proper 157-tooth, 50-ounce-inch external-balance-style flywheel for the late-model 5.0L engines along with a Superior Clutch disc that offers organic material on one side and a Kevlar facing on the side shown in this photo. According to Bruce Couture at Modern, the steel backing on the organic side of the disc helps retain the facings, especially under high-rpm downshifts. The final piece is a Superior diaphragm pressure plate that offers excellent holding power.

T5 Trans SwapIn addition to stepping up to a strong small-block, we didn't want to wimp out with an automatic. But to keep a reign on the budget, we decided to go with a more common World Class T5 trans rather than the pricey Tremec TKO 500 or 600 transmissions. While researching the best way to perform this swap, our Ford buddies all recommended Modern Driveline (MD). Bruce Couture's company specializes in early Mustang T5 and six-speed conversions and offers multiple ways to get there. Amazingly, the stock T5 trans fits under the stock floorpan. And with minimal surgery, the stock location shifter fits almost like it was intended. Couture offers a cable-clutch linkage conversion similar to the '80s vintage Fox-body Mustang arrangement to minimize the hassle factor and avoid the complexity of hydraulic systems. The cable linkage bolts in using the stock clutch pedal, but MD does offer an internal hydraulic clutch release system as an option.

11/16

Since our Mustang was originally an automatic, we needed a new clutch pedal. Rather than buy a new brake pedal, MD suggests merely cutting down the automatic pedal to fit the new brake pad. MD uses a cable instead of a mechanical clutch linkage for this conversion because it fits better with most headers. The cable does require drilling a hole in the firewall near the master cylinder, but that's the extent of the fabrication required to assemble the linkage.

12/16

This is the QuickTime scattershield, created using a different material-forming process that allows it to be made from thinner steel yet still pass the SFI explosion-containment requirements. QuickTime also claims much greater accuracy for input-shaft alignment than other scattershields.

MD's pervasive conversion parts list includes a Superior Clutch set as well as a custom-built T5 trans crossmember. If you're considering this swap, MD also offers either new Tremec boxes or rebuilt T5s. According to Couture, most of his customers step up to a new transmission because the price increase is only $400 over a rebuild.

13/16

The MD system also comes with a custom T5 trans crossmember that allows you to bolt the T5 directly in with no fabrication required and offers excellent exhaust clearance. This also included the correct trans mount and hardware. We also included a new Hurst shifter handle and ball to complete the swap. The three- and four-speed shifter handles bolt to the left side of the transmission while the T5 shifter is inline with the transmission centerline, so the T5 does sit slightly more to the right compared with the stock shifter, but the difference is minimal. MD also includes a new speedometer cable and optimized speedometer-driven gear that is used towork with our 8.8's 3.50:1 gear ratio and rear tire size.

14/16

We did have to trim the forward portion of the stock shifter hole about 3/8 inch in a semicircle to create room for the stock T5 transmission shifter mount, but the material removed is minimal and no welding is required. MD does offer a shifter that fits the stock opening. We also had to bypass the neutral safety switch by splicing the wires together.

One of the best parts of this swap is that you don't have to cut massive holes in the car to complete this conversion. If a stouter small-block or a big-block is your plan, MD also offers TKO five-speed and T56 six-speed transmissions, but the T56 does require raising the transmission hump to clear this much larger box. MD also has multiple bellhousing choices. You can go with a stock type aluminum unit, or you can do what we did and choose a new steel bellhousing from a new company called QuickTime that offers a lighter, 27-pound, SFI-spec scattershield that allows the use of either a pull-type cable clutch or the standard push-type mechanical linkage. You can check out all the trick one-off-style bellhousings from QuickTime at quicktimeinc.com. Modern Driveline's kit also includes a driveshaft for your particular rearend application. Our car would require a different shaft because of the 8.8 Mustang conversion we performed.

PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION

PN

SOURCE

PRICE

MD QuickTime bellhousing

MD-401-6060

Modern Driveline

$375.00

MD 5.0L, 50 oz. flywheel

MD-CS157-50

Modern Driveline

150.00

MD K/O 10.5 clutch

MD-K/S7-101

Modern Driveline

250.00

MD clutch cable kit

MD-6768MC-C

Modern Driveline

259.00

MD clutch lever cable

MD-401-2002

Modern Driveline

43.00

MD Hurst chrome shift lever

MD-504-1040

Modern Driveline

59.00

MD Hurst shift ball, five-speed

MD-504-1050

Modern Driveline

39.00

MD T5 crossmember

MD-6773-CM

Modern Driveline

149.00

MD T5 trans mount

MD-504-1101

Modern Driveline

19.00

MD speedometer cable

MD-506-1020

Modern Driveline

26.00

MD speedometer gear

MD-506-1028-19

Modern Driveline

9.50

MD backup-light harness

MD-700-0001

Modern Driveline

15.00

MD clutch pedal assembly

MD-402-6768M-C

Modern Driveline

135.00

MD pedal pads, trim ring kit

MD-412-6568

Modern Driveline

39.00

ExhaustOn the dyno, our Fox-body refugee made an outstanding 390-plus horsepower using a set of 13/4-inch dyno headers with an open exhaust. We expect to lose a little horsepower when we add a full exhaust system, but the idea was to minimize that loss, which is why we went with a set of coated Hedman 15/8-inch, long-tube primary pipe headers. According to Bruce Couture at Modern Driveline, not all headers will clear his cable clutch linkage, but the Hedmans along with JBA and Doug Thorley headers do fit without difficulty.

Backing up these headers is a complete Flowmaster Scavenger 21/2-inch lead-down system, a pair of 21/2-inch Delta Flow mufflers that will connect to a pair of 21/2-inch tailpipes that exit underneath the rear valance. You can also get Flowmaster tailpipes that exit through the rear valance for that OE look.