Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.

No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.

Getting There

15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.

Guidebook

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

This roof crack will put your invert skills to the test, starting with bd#3's the route gets progressively wider and more challenging. Crux is transitioning from the roof to the face, pulling which is said to require some form of magic....[more]Browse More Classics in OK

A few things you should keep in mind when planning a trip to the refuge:

It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)

Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.

There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.

There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.

Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers. Enjoy, but be prepared.

My wife and I are new to the area and are wanting to learn to climb and rappell. we have NO experience but are eager to learn. Please let us know if there is anyone who can teach this in the area. e-mail: labrat_7300@yahoo.com

If anybody is having any trouble finding a certain area I might be able to help, I recently made a trail map with Google maps of some of the areas! shoot me a message and i'll see if I can dig them up for your. Great granite reminds me of my home Wyoming. The wildlife is awesome out there! Stay safe have fun.

Wasn't sure where to post this but... I am pretty new to climbing. I have recently got into sport climbing at the gym, and obviously have done a lot of TR climbing in the gym and at the Wichitas. Basically, I have not got into trad (yet) and have no cams, only a set of nuts that i've never used. does anybody have any suggestions for top rope climbs (up to 5.11) that can be anchored with slings/webbing OR good sport routes at the Wichitas for a beginner? (max climb at a gym was 5.11 TR, and 5.10b lead)

Trad Sport - you are correct. Typically these routes have a few bolts along with some gear placements. On rare occasions the gear isn't necessary, like the #2 cam that can be placed on 'Come and Get Your Love' over at Lost Dome. More often you will find a situation like on Dr. Coolhead, where that first placement is imperative, and even with it, if you blow that clip at that first bolt you'll most likely deck. Coolhead is one of the bolder lead IMHO.

Hey guys and gals I'm gonna be out this way mid oct to do some bouldering and camping I've made a pretty decent guide book for myself but with all the beta that's on here and how many boulders it seems like out there was wondering if there was any spots that still need climbs developed please let me know I'm a pretty decent route setting imo

If you are looking to establish some new problems. In the refuge, I would park at Treasure Lake and hike up around the area below Elk Slabs and Treasure cove. You can also start in the Sunset Pool on the other end. Lots of rock to play on. Plenty of established problems out there... if you can find them. So much good rock around, you are sure to find something that suits you. Good luck.

Thanks so much Craig! Really appreciate the info and the quick response if ur in the area and wanna meet us out there please be my guest. I'm really excited the place looks beautiful! My cell is 1847seven36foursix17 I climb v3-v5 hmu I'll be with 3 of my good friends who are beginner climbers. Aka pad carriers (;

I am living in Lawton for the next few months, and want to get as much climbing in as possible while I am here. I have a full trad rack and lead 5.9 in Yosemite. I want to get as much climbing in as possible so I am not at all picky. I will happily follow a stronger climber or take it easy with a weaker climber.