I am 100% sure that when towing big loads then it would have a big difference, but I never tow anything more than a passanger car on a trailer max...
Normal on road use I must say I have not noticed any difference.

I am 100% sure that when towing big loads then it would have a big difference, but I never tow anything more than a passanger car on a trailer max...
Normal on road use I must say I have not noticed any difference.

Ok! Thanks for your help.

Edit: Oh one more thing. Does the extra length shackle look any kind of goofy form the side of the truck? I was trying to imagine it being longer but its hard to tell what it will look like when its finished.

i had my front sway bar removed for almost a year and it handled the same before and after it was on or removed. I took mine off because i had to add poly bushings and just never added it back right away, it did help out while off road, i never knew my truck could flex that good before!
And drop shackles look weird from the side of the truck, you see the springs hanging down and that stupid spacer hanging. I have a picture of my 1" drop shackle ill post so you can see

i had my front sway bar removed for almost a year and it handled the same before and after it was on or removed. I took mine off because i had to add poly bushings and just never added it back right away, it did help out while off road, i never knew my truck could flex that good before!
And drop shackles look weird from the side of the truck, you see the springs hanging down and that stupid spacer hanging. I have a picture of my 1" drop shackle ill post so you can see

Ok that would be great. Never knew you could take that off.
Also I just hought of another question to whoever made these shackles. Did u use regular cold rolled steel. Does the steel have to have any hardness to it? Was thinking the bolts might woller the holes out after a while.

my shackles are 1/4" thick flat stock with a 1/4" thick square tube welded in the middle, the bolt holes were just barley big enough for the factory bolts to fit through. Then when torqued to factory 180ftlbs they should never move or wollow out

my shackles are 1/4" thick flat stock with a 1/4" thick square tube welded in the middle, the bolt holes were just barley big enough for the factory bolts to fit through. Then when torqued to factory 180ftlbs they should never move or wollow out

Sounds good. I am going to use 3/8 thick flat stock because right now theres a 1/2 inch ectra bolt hanging out extra past the nuts. And 1/4 inch wall box tubing just like you described.
Should work well. 8 inch between bolt centers. 5/8 drilled holes.the part will be 10 inches long overall by 2 1/2 width.
Just wanted to post what I'm doing for all to see.

i too have the same shackles in front that provide lift. my issue is with my donahue lift and the shackle lift my front driveshaft doesnt fit and my pinion angle is A** as it comes out straight now no angle up at all? called the driveshaft shop they can lengthen shaft for $200.00 but is that angle gonna eat u-joints? also if it everyone thinks its gonna eat ujoints im gonna take them out and drop rear 2.5" with different blocks so it sits level?thanks

i too have the same shackles in front that provide lift. my issue is with my donahue lift and the shackle lift my front driveshaft doesnt fit and my pinion angle is A** as it comes out straight now no angle up at all? called the driveshaft shop they can lengthen shaft for $200.00 but is that angle gonna eat u-joints? also if it everyone thinks its gonna eat ujoints im gonna take them out and drop rear 2.5" with different blocks so it sits level?thanks

I would try to chancge that angle with a triangle formed but as small as possible under the front leafs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FordGuy85

Sounds good. I am going to use 3/8 thick flat stock because right now theres a 1/2 inch ectra bolt hanging out extra past the nuts. And 1/4 inch wall box tubing just like you described.
Should work well. 8 inch between bolt centers. 5/8 drilled holes.the part will be 10 inches long overall by 2 1/2 width.
Just wanted to post what I'm doing for all to see.

As weak as the original schakles seems to be I don't think there is any risk to make weaker ones as long as they are thicker you are good.

Ok I got the new shackles on the truck and everything looks really good. Had a little trouble getting the springs re centered to the shackles but I made a tool to push the springs back to center and it worked great.

Before I made that tool, I couldn't get the springs to center back up. There was no way they were moving. I had a come a long, rachet straps, pry bars and everything else. Couldn't budge them.
The tool saved the day.

Ok I got the new shackles on the truck and everything looks really good. Had a little trouble getting the springs re centered to the shackles but I made a tool to push the springs back to center and it worked great.

Before I made that tool, I couldn't get the springs to center back up. There was no way they were moving. I had a come a long, rachet straps, pry bars and everything else. Couldn't budge them.
The tool saved the day.

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.