Nov 28 Carbonic Maceration (n.) Winemaking Term

This is part of a new series called Wine Words, a glossary in the works that breaks down the barrier between those in the wine know and those who have no idea what the hell everyone's talking about. A new word will post every Wednesday and will cover anything and everything from a grape name or region, to a winemaking or tasting term. If you have a recommendation or request, please leave it in the comments.

Carbonic Maceration (n.) Winemaking Term

Also called Carbonic Fermentation, Whole Cluster Fermentation andà l’ancienne, depending on who you're talking to and in what part of the world they're making wine. This type of red wine fermentation is anaerobic. Entire clusters of berries are gently placed in the fermentation vat and covered with a blanket of carbon dioxide, which blocks oxygen from interloping with the fruit. The fermentation process then begins inside the unbroken berries, as if each grape were producing one tiny bottle of wine for tiny fairies to drink upon their midnight mushroom rings. This method produces light bodied, lightly colored red wines with exuberant fresh fruit flavors - some people note bananas or kirsch in the glass, though the former often means a manufactured yeast has been used - that are intended to drink young.

Beaujolais is typically the go-to region when we think of carbonic maceration. That's not always the case, especially in more vineyard and cru specific cuvées that carry a bit more color and tannin and years, but the method is common. The carignan grape, popular in southern France, is often a candidate for carbonic maceration because of the fruit's genetic makeup: high acid, high tannin, deep color, astringent and bitter. Undergoing carbonic maceration produces red wine with a soft nature and easy drinkability.

Broc Cellars in California makes a beautiful old vine carignan by this method. (I've written recently about the Love Red and the Cabernet Franc, neither of which employ carbonic maceration, but both are damn delicious and I highly recommend seeking them out.)

A few years ago, I wrote about Marcel Lapierre's Raisins Gaulois, a superb representation of the carbonic maceration in Beaujolais. The first bit of the post is a personal story about a lunch I once had in Beaujolais (please excuse the improperly used semi-colon) but if you scroll down, Lapierre's wine is in bold.

**November 30th adendum: Upon speaking with importer Peter Weygandt of Weygandt-Metzler this afternoon about the Pierre Chermette Beaujolais 2014, I learned that the carbonic maceration method, where the clusters are blanketed with carbon dioxide in a sealed tank, is actually a modern approach that came about in the 1960s. The traditional or á l'ancienneis technically a semi-carbonic process. An intra-cellular fermentation takes place, but the protective layer of carbon dioxide is "self-formed carbonic," Weygandt says, where the grapes begin fermentation on their own accord with the native yeasts that followed them in from the vineyard. The soft tannins and bright, cherry flavors are still there, but so is a distinct note of terroir and backbone.

#tbt to my visit to @stony_hill_wine in February and stopped to listen to the creek run down as I drove up.

New episode of Pig&Vine Radio with Chef Kelly Fields of Willa Jean is live! Kelly and I chat about her path to becoming a chef/partner in the John Besh Restaurant Group, how she approaches the plate, and what the ideal kitchen environment looks like. (Hint: she's created it) Read my full intro thru the bio link and listen to the episode on iTunes. @kellyfields @willajeanneworleans 📷: @gabriellegeiselmanmilone #neworleans #winepodcast #podcastlife

Truth has become a word in serious danger of losing its meaning. I don't have to go too deep into commentary on the current political situation to make my point. But it's not just a lunatic president and his minions who are abusing the language. Storysellers, marketers if you will, even we ourselves in our own private lives, are stretching the truth to sell a thing, an idea, a feeling. The wine business is not exempt from such behavior. But should wine stories be true? Read my latest essay (about a ten min read) thru the bio link and share your thoughts.

Revelatory Deliciousness, that point where a wine surpasses easy drinkability and pleasure, and ignites a flash of inspiration or self-discovery. It's personal and often private, though the experience is truly democratic, available to anyone willing to accept it. A simple syrah dominate blend from France's Luberon region recently did this for me. So much Deliciousness after a long period of illness induced palate fatigue, like a coma, everything short of finish and insipid in flavor. More thoughts and notes through my bio link. Bastide du Claux Malacare 2014 from Rosenthal, purchased @keifeandco in #neworleans #luberon #rosenthalwines #rhonevalley #sylvainmorey

That's how we do @bacchanalwine on Rosé Fest 2017. #ballin #winning #txakolina #ameztoi

Pink on pink on pink @bacchanalwine rosé fest 2017. 😊💕

So excited about this new book! I've gotten lazy over the past few years (cooking for one is so much work) and as a result, I've lost my edge on technique and pairing flavors. But this lovely tome by @ciaosamin has me curious to get back in the kitchen, and I've long been a fan of @wendymac art. #saltfatacidheat

Monday Alice. #nofilter #nofucksgiven

Gettin' caught up on this stormy Sunday. Great article about Pauline "Pauli" Murray in the April 17 issue. #heroine #badasslady #newyorkerinthewild #sunday #neworleans #catsofinstagram

Hanging out at my fave wine store @keifeandco for a few days, pushing the quality vino onto the good people of New Orleans. 😎🍷🍾

In the newest podcast episode, I chat with the clever and delightful mind behind @80harvests, @amanda_wine. She's traveling to over 40 countries to witness 80 harvests and record what makes each region so unique. We also talk about wine journalism, literature and fave childhood films. Read the blog post thru bio link or go straight to iTunes and download Pig&Vine Radio. #podcast #podcastlife #winepodcast

One of the more interesting wines I've had in a while: 14% viognier, 83% syrah, 3% pinot noir from Willamette Valley, OR. The nod to Northern Rhône comes thru nicely, and the dab of pinot adds some freshness, I suppose. Strong smokey meat syrah game= ❤️#biggiohamina #willamettevalley #Oregon wine

My herb garden is thriving and the lavender is in bloom. So nice to have space to grow things again! #marigny #neworleans #nola #herbs #herbgarden

Have you caught up on all the Pig&Vine Radio episodes? Check it out on iTunes and leave us a review, particularly if it's a nice one. Link in bio will lead you where you want to go, then follow the sound of my melodious voice to discover the secrets of musicians, artists, writers and even an ER doc, or two. #podcastlife #winepodcast #neworleans #winelife

Wine Lovers, Get Woke. "The cheapest way to grow grapes? Eliminate risk by relying on herbicides, insecticides, chemical fertilizers and mechanization to ensure, barring natural disaster or extreme climate conditions, a crop size that makes the bean counters smile and wink. Then there’s the matter of water usage, energy and labor costs, and working conditions. Given what we know today, indulging those practices to save a few dollars at the register carries a strong, ethically sour odor." New essay on the blog about why industrialized, chemically manipulated plonk isn't doing you any favors, by price or flavor. Link in bio.