Matt Ong was born in Leighton Buzzard and brought up on mince. But Parisians love his custard tart, so is it move over, Michelin, bonjour le gastropub?

From the outside, Albion doesn’t look very revolutionary.

A short walk from the Gare du Nord in Paris, it’s an attractive enough
restaurant, all stone walls and bare tables and walls of wine bottles. But
not only is Albion the hottest ticket in town, its chef-patron is English
and his food falls squarely under the heading Modern British. In other
words, the French, for whom sneering at English food can seem like a
national pastime, are flocking to an unprepossessing neighbourhood to eat
British food made by an Englishman. What on Earth is the world coming to?