autumn/winter

Autumn/Winter 2013 was heavily influenced by art. Dali’s artwork, for example, has been intrinsically involved with the fashion industry and has served for inspiration to many designers throughout the years. One of his paintings, auctioned at Christie’s this month, was commissioned for Vogue’s October 1943 issue, proving how art and fashion do work together.

Liz Black’s Autumn/Winter 2014 presentation is another favourite. Not that I’m biased because I‘ve met her previously, or because she’s Venezuelan, but the whole Salvador Dali concept was completely unexpected in an interesting and entertaining presentation during London Fashion Week. Very unusual make-up of mock-outraged eyes by Face Lace, and pony tails that felt like someone was pulling the models from the back, moustache and red lippy dresses. The models opened the show as they simulated coming out of an egg and submerged into Dali’s dramatic life.They had plenty of space to exhibit the beautifully-made pieces in crepe and jersey, delicate tiers of chiffon, and sleek and leather-panelled tailoring. Leather and neoprene is one of Liz Black’s iconic textures, but this season leather was clearly the protagonist. The surrealism came out in 3-D moustache appliques, the most noticeable one on the chest of the camel midi-skirt dress.

The nude dress with the huge red lips surrounding the hips absolutely blew my mind… I’m not sure if it would give the best feminine shape, as you might feel like a Queen ant while walking with it on, but that wouldn’t bother me at all. Just picture that dress combined with the classic LuLu Guinness lips clutch? Red lippy galore!

So, I’ve out n’about at London Fashion Week, but this year I’ve taken it easy. However, I thought it would still be great to share with you guys some of the shows, but this time I will do a round up of some of the unusual ones and the atmosphere of it all. I won’t come and share content that probably you have already seen in other website. All shows are up and going around everywhere. But Fyodor Golan was one of my highlights. I got a bit of backstage insight and had the chance to quickly interview the dynamic duo behind the label: Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman. I’ve been following them since their beginnings when they won the Fashion Fringe in 2011. It’s so wonderful to see the pair’s evolution throughout the years, not only with the wide variety of collection they’ve produced so far, not to mention that Super Smart Skirt made of smartphones, but also how their personality and confidence has gone ‘boom’!

When I first met Fyodor Podgorny, probably two years ago at his showroom, he was a quiet shy designer with a flamboyant collection under his sleeve, but now, after his Autumn/Winter 2014 show, I encountered an almost flamboyant man who described his collection in three words as: “Flamboyant (of course), Camp, Hi-Tech.”

I must confess I never saw this collection, entitled Crocodile, coming. It’s incredibly different from their previous collections, proving what they’re capable of achieving. Presenting their show at a London warehouse, with floors and columns wrapped in pink, they introduced menswear for the first time, total hot pink looks, savage green, 3D printing and mosaics made from the pictures of their travels throughout Myanmar and Cambodia, being this their main inspiration.

Models had hot pink thick lips and matching nails. The hairstyle embraced a labyrinth of braids – Snoop Dog style. Footwear shined bright metallic colours and head gear kept it all cool with baseball caps. There was a sense of wilderness, modernisation and urban street style.

London Fashion Week AW13 is now over and I haven’t been able to show the lots I’ve got yet. My first day last Friday was crazy, but fun! I had 10 shows on the schedule and I knew that comfortable shoes were a MUST, and indeed what a wise decision it was to wear this boyish leopard shoes that I love so much. Yes, I love leopard print, and it keeps coming back again and again, or didn’t you see the Burberry show? I put this outfit together very last minute trying to keep it black and white, added the fur vest and collar to keep warm and the final touch was the prune porter hat. The Modalu Pippa bag was my saviour, I could fit it all in it and kept it safe with its compartment’s zippers. It worked perfect for the weather and hectic day.

See the bottom of the post to see the items I was wearing/ Al final del post verás de dónde es todo el look

While living the current season I was looking back at the fashion shows from September, where we previewed the then upcoming Autumn/Winter 2012 collections. I still get hypnotised by Sophie Hulme’s London Fashion Week’s debut with such a wearable yet unique collection of high quality pieces of chic, boyish, tough feminism, cool and young designs, and that very special touch of dinosaur toys in charms, belts, lace and embroided jumpers. See the full post on the show here and my video of her, where she says the collection was inlfuenced by her love for menswear and why dinosaurs. Now, you can buy AW12 here, here and here.

An outstanding mix of tough tailoring with the hotness of fur and leather embraced the catwalk of Todd Lynn’s show at London Fashion Week yesterday. Unique blazers, sharp geometric shapes, V cuts, leather gloves combined with browns, blacks and greys colours showcased his Fall 2012 collection called “Kitsch”.

Inspired in The Renaissance, Mayan mysticism and the Brothers Grimm, the Canadian designer brings his classic elegance and clean tailoring to vigorous ladies that have a chic spirit and powerful sense.

I’m not a big fan of workwear, and Lynn’s collections are not surprisingly different. But although he followed his -expected- classic line of molding silhouettes, the show was fabulous and the collection was stunning, as he achieved his ‘corrupted elegance’. I absolutely loved that fur coat, the fur vest crossed at the back, and the so much leather that gives a rock and roll touch to so much elegance. I would simply resume Lynn’s new collection in three words: strong, elegant and aristocratic.

For the first time I have brought something big for boys, and what a better post than an interview with London-based men’s designer Martine Rose. This top designer has done plenty collaborations, have designed for Topman and have hit London Fashion Weeks and catwalks with her unique collections.

She reveals her personality at her showroom and says all about her current Autumn/Winter 11 collection of layers and her Californian Spring/Summer 12. Martine even tells us that her dad dares to wear her designs. What a privilege! Enjoy…