Skiing holidays: a season to be cheerful

Yes, money's tight, snow has been scarce and there are far fewer holidays on
offer. But you can still enjoy a great skiing trip if you choose wisely. Peter
Hardy offers advice.

Image 1 of 3

Le Grand Bornand is an unsung family resort

Image 1 of 3

Söll positively buzzes at New Year

Image 1 of 3

Tignes has guaranteed snow cover from mid-November

By Peter Hardy

8:00AM BST 30 Sep 2011

Two questions will dominate the thoughts of most skiers in the run-up to this year's season: will there be enough snow in the Alps and, given the financial climate and exchange rates, can I actually afford to go?

There's no easy response. But if you choose your resort with care and pay equal attention to how you get there, where you stay and when you go, the answer to both can still be "yes".

Three difficult financial seasons have inevitably resulted in some dramatic changes in the ski industry, with far fewer holidays on offer and a marked switch to higher and more traditionally "snow-sure" destinations in Italy and Austria.

Inghams has dumped 200 of its properties – mainly self-catering apartments in France and Bulgaria. After a decade of systematically dismantling a giant chalet programme that incorporated the old Bladon Lines, the company has added no fewer than 42 new chalets and chalet hotels.

"We're listening to our clients and it's what a lot of people want although most of our programme remains with hotels," said Andy Perrin, managing director of Inghams.

Particularly for families in these troubled financial times, the inclusive chalet holiday remains the most economical option. After three seasons without profit, almost every tour operator has its back to the wall. Already we have seen the failure of the school-trip operator Pinnacle Travel, and I know of a small number of other ski operators that are at risk of heading the same way as Finlays and Descent. Survival of the fittest has become the name of the ski game.

This autumn more than ever you should check that your tour operator is fully bonded before parting with your money. Paying by credit card directly rather than through an agent may also provide some financial protection in the event of a company failure.

The survivors seem determined to maintain prices where possible at last year's rates, and in an attempt to woo increasingly nervous customers the strongest are offering all kinds of "added value": free lift passes and two-for-one ski or snowboard rental, free child travel, packed lunches, hotel drinks vouchers or unlimited wine and beer.

Will there be lots of last-minute bargains this winter? You bet. The number of holidays available continues to drop and the pick of the chalets will go early. But there will still be plenty of capacity, particularly in the tail-end of the season.

Difficult dates

Last year Christmas fell on a Saturday and most operators opted for inconvenient Boxing Day flights. The Royal wedding and the latest Easter on record all combined with economic gloom to keep skiers at home and the number of British snow-seekers dropped below one million for the first time this century.

This season is likely to be just as tough. Easter falls a fortnight earlier – on April 8. But the December calendar is arguably even more difficult, with the largest mass-market tour operators operating Saturday flights to the majority of their destinations on Christmas and New Year's Eve.

Across Europe, Christmas is celebrated on December 24. So one blip in the weather or air traffic control at either end of your journey – remember the snow chaos last year – and turkey is off the menu. The same applies to getting back to Trafalgar Square in time for the final New Year countdown.

Inghams and others not dictated to by the schdules of their own charter airlines have opted for more sociable Friday flights.

But the difficult dates have already made the low-cost pre-Christmas week a virtual sell-out and, unbelievably, New Year is already being discounted.

What's new

Crystal (0871 231 2256; www.crystalski.co.uk) offers skiing in 13 countries on three continents in 148 resorts. New is Sochi in Russia, venue-under-construction for the 2014 Winter Olympics. It's a tough journey via Istanbul for what so far is just 60 miles of piste across three little resorts, but at least the vodka's cheap and plentiful.

If the Russian Prime Minister, Vladimir Putin, is not in town you might even get a chance to heli-ski. When he is, there's a frustrating 50-mile no-fly zone.

The biggest story in the French Alps this year is the renaissance of Avoriaz. The once futuristic-looking resort perched on a cliff top above Morzine was built in the Sixties in partnership with Pierre & Vacances. Its original rabbit-hut apartments have been phased out and the first stage of a complete transformation is now finished.

Three new complexes with 369 apartments at different price levels, including 100 four-star L'Amara apartments (www.pv-holidays.com/gb-en and www.skicollection.co.uk), come on stream this winter, complete with huge pool, gym and beauty centre, with more planned for the following season.

New here this winter is Bighorn. The definitive five-star chalet is British-owned, sleeps 16 and has a swimming pool, gym and helipad. Bighorn (020 3432 0726; www.bighornrevelstoke.com). Rent the whole lodge from £2,590 per person, based on full occupancy, including all food and drink, but not travel.

PT Ski (020 7736 5557; www.ptski.com), run by Tara's brother, Jamie Palmer-Tomkinson, is the new Klosters specialist. He is calling upon the family's wealth of knowledge to offer a full range of holidays, including off-piste weeks and weekends. From £1,052 half board at Hotel Silvaplana, including transfers but not flights.

Ski Bespoke (01243 200202; www.skibespoke.com) is a talented newcomer formed by key personnel from the late Ski Dream and Made to Measure. They are using their knowledge and hotel contacts to tailor-make holidays in 44 resorts.

Kaluma (01730 260263; www.kalumatravel.co.uk) is offering a new boutique hotel in St Anton. The Mooser (www.themooser.at) has been built on the piste right next door to the Mooserwirt, the former cowshed on the home run that is the resort's famous watering hole. It has eight double rooms, nine suites and a spa. From £140 per night b & b.

But all of this will be of precious little benefit to any of us this winter if there is once again a marked absence of the essential basic ingredient for a ski holiday.

The snow

Last season was a contrasting tale of two continents. While North America basked in the best cover it had had for 36 years, most of Europe struggled to stay white.

France had its driest winter since 1949. Even high resorts such as La Plagne and Val d'Isèrereceived less than half their average snowfall. One notable exception was Isola 2000, above Nice, which clocked up 6m (20ft) to make it the snowiest resort in France for the third consecutive year.

It was a similar story in neighbouring countries. Switzerland, apart from St Moritz and a corner of the Engadin, received nowhere close to average snowfall. Verbier got just 2.5m (8ft) compared to its normal six.

Austria suffered from more of the same, with low resorts such as Kitzbühel struggling with 1.6m (5.2ft) in place of the usual 2.6m (8.5ft). By contrast, Andorra and the rest of the Pyrenees fared better than they have done for the past three winters. But only Italy escaped the blight altogether, with snowfall close to average in most resorts. Little Limone in Piemonte, two hour's drive south of Turin, got 9.7m (32ft), earning itself the title of Snowiest Place in the Alps 2010-11.

But in general, giant investment over the past decade in snow-making paid huge dividends. Most visitors were surprised and delighted by the extent of groomed skiing available, despite the infrequent snowfalls. Only off-piste enthusiasts were left frustrated.

But that was last winter. Look on the bright side – snow cover across the Alps really can't be worse this season. In North America, confirmation that La Niña is back in the Pacific has raised hopes of a repeat of the record snowfall. Last season saw a particularly strong episode of this occasional climate anomaly that influences snowfall in parts of the United States.

In Europe, early signs are promising, but we will just have to wait and see.

In my experience, it's impossible to judge what ski conditions are likely to be over Christmas and New Year until the first week of December. Therefore, my advice as always for holidays before late January is to head for resorts that offer high-altitude skiing, preferably with a glacier.

Top of my list are Val d'Isère, Tignes, Alpe d'Huez, Les Deux Alpes, Zermatt, Sölden, Kaprun, Obergurgl, Hintertux and Obertauern. The safe alternative is to cross the Atlantic and head for Vail, Breckenridge or any of the resorts within easy reach of Denver.

Hot resorts

Small is beautiful this winter, with an emphasis on undiscovered resorts where prices are generally lower rather than in famous spots. Are, in Sweden, has developed a reputation as the place for Scandinavian cool. It has one of the finest snowparks in Europe, some sensational off-piste in the second half of the season and frenetic nightlife. Neilson (0845 070 3460; www.neilson.co.uk) is the principal operator there, with a weekly charter flight from Heathrow.

Revelstoke, in British Columbia, has the longest vertical drop in North America and a daily choice of heli-skiing or piste. Development has been blighted by the worldwide financial situation, but I believe it still has the potential to become a top 10 international ski destination.

St-Luc in the Swiss Val d'Anniviers, easily reached by Snowjet's (www.snowjet.co.uk) Stansted-to-Sion service, is a delightful backwater offering access to 220km (135 miles) of pistes (the best of which are in neighbouring Grimentz). Chalet Charr (01947 896391 or 07581 564296; www.chaletcharr.co.uk), designed by its British architect owner, is a sumptuous private hideaway in a forest clearing. It sleeps eight in comfort at a reasonable price (from £8,500 for the whole chalet, including half board, but not travel).

Gela is a village in Bulgaria with just 40 inhabitants and a single weather-permitting rope tow. It hardly qualifies as a ski resort, but it's home to a new five-star chalet with six cutting-edge contemporary bedrooms, a pool, a spa and a creative local chef. The hamlet of Stoykite, a 13-minute drive away, gives backdoor access into Pamporovo, my favourite Bulgarian resort. A week in Villa Gella (07780 009266; www.villagella.com) costs from £5,255 for 12 people.

Le Grand Bornand is an unsung family resort – a well-preserved Savoyard village with modest prices and a good snow record. It is also one of the closest resorts to Geneva. Through Peak Retreats (0844 576 0170; www.peakretreats.co.uk), prices for self-drive holidays at the four-star Village de Lessy start at £1,013 for an apartment for four, including Eurotunnel crossing.

Equipment

Watch out for the biggest innovation since the shaped ski began to evolve in the mid-Nineties. The Salomon BBR is as wide as a water ski and much longer than you are used to, but don't be deceived by appearances. The reverse camber cut makes it extraordinarily easy to turn both on piste and in difficult deep snow. It comes in two models and costs £400-£500 from Snow + Rock (www.snowandrock.com).

Purple is the new black on the slopes this year and is worn with limes or greens. Patterns are fading and blocks of vibrant colour are in.

The one-piece suit is still trying to make a comeback, frankly with only marginal success despite the valiant efforts of a company called Willyfinder (www.willyfinder.com). Peak Performance is the latest manufacturer to get in on the retro one-piece act.

Top Ski Resorts

Sölden, close to Obergurgl in the Austrian Otztal, has plenty of skiing for all standards and is wonderfully snow-sure. It's also big on après-ski. Ski Total (01252 618333; www.skitotal.com) offers deals including two-for-one on rentals. Chalet Hotel Hermann half board from December 16 from £649pp including travel.

Orelle, in the French Maurienne Valley (www.maurienne-tourisme.com), gives backdoor access by gondola into Val Thorens and the Trois Vallées. Peak Retreats (0844 576 0170; www.peakretreats.co.uk) offers Les Hameaux des Eaux d'Orelle apartments, with spa and pool, over the New Year from £850 for an apartment for two with Eurotunnel crossing, plus 30 per cent early-booking discount.

Tignes has guaranteed snow cover from mid-Nov. Mark Warner's (0844 884 3800; www.markwarner.co.uk) Chalethotel Hauts de Tovière costs £680 from Jan 29, half board and travel included. Children go free if you book before the end of October.

Alpe d'Huez has glacier skiing and a good snow record. Ski Collection (0844 576 0175; www.skicollection.com) is offering the new four-star MGM Le Cristal de l'Alpe apartments from Jan 7 for £1,187 (reduced from £1,319) if you book before the end of Oct. Price is for a two-bedroom apartment sleeping up to six people, travel not included.

Flaine has its own favourable microclimate because of its proximity to the Mont Blanc massif. Pierre & Vacances (0870 026 7145; www.pv-holidays.com/gb-en) is offering a one-bedroom apartment sleeping two comfortably and five at a squash in Résidence La Forêt from Dec 10 for £390 (reduced from £488). Travel not included.

Passo Tonale in Italy is renowned for its good early and late snow cover. Thomson (0871 971 0578; www.thomsonski.co.uk) has the four-star Grand Hotel Paradiso from Dec 31 for £735 (reduced from £825), half board and travel included.

Verbier, Saas Fee and Zermatt are the three most popular destinations in Switzerland. The terrible exchange rate – £1 buys just CHF1.40 – makes holidaying here prohibitively expensive this winter unless you shop with care. Crystal (0871 231 2256; www.crystalski.co.uk) offers the three-star Chalet Dahlia in Verbier with chalet half board and travel from Jan 7 for £575 (reduced from £685).

Courchevel 1650 is my favourite of the four villages at different altitudes that make up the top French resort. Le Ski (01484 548996; www.leski.com) has Scalottas Lodge, a new complex of five smart chalets here, with a pool and hot tub. From Jan 29 for £999 (reduced from £1,059).

Les Arcs sees the long-awaited opening of the Edenarc apartments in Arc 1800. Erna Low (0844 879 2928; www.ernalow.co.uk), celebrating its 80th anniversary next year, offers a one-bedroom apartment, sleeping up to four from Jan 7 for £761. Ski-drive, self-catering price includes Eurotunnel with a free Flexiplus upgrade.

Baqueira Beret is a delightful resort in the Spanish Pyrenees that is a particular favourite of mine and almost unknown to British skiers. Neilson (0845 070 3460; www.neilson.co.uk) has begun selling holidays there in the four-star Hotel Montarto from £712, with a five per cent discount for booking online.

Have your say

Do you agree with Peter Hardy's tips and advice? Leave your views below. The best comments will be published in the newspaper, and the winner could collect ferry tickets to St Malo.