San Francisco-born, Paris-educated Erin Fetherston has been showing her collections in presentation format for the last few seasons, but this season, she brought her show back to the stage at Lincoln Center. You might remember her for a collaboration with Target back when the Go International Collaboration was still new and fresh (way back in 2007), but she’s maintained her namesake line as well as a diffusion line, ERIN Erin Fetherston as well as helming Juicy Couture in 2010 and collaborating with the lingerie line Cosabella. So while she might be under the radar for some, she’s kept busy (her wedding was featured in Martha Stewart Weddings and she designed her own dress, of course).

Erin Fetherston Spring 2015

All along, Fetherston has kept her signatures, and they were all present in her latest collection. The collection focused on a few botanical prints that Fetherston found from the ’60s. They belonged to her grandmother, but the collection that walked Lincoln Center was thoroughly modern, with just a hint of the classic, cheeky, vintage vibe that her brand has been built on. Feminine frocks, matching pant-and-shell sets, maxi and midi skirts — a major shape in Fetherston’s oeuvre — all featured the delicate floral and looked perfect for summer weddings and garden parties alike.

But the collection also focused on shape: that maxi shape and even midi skirts were a focus for the designer, and she showed brocades and more in the lengths, modernizing them and taking them away from their usual boho vibe. Short shorts were done in black satin and a chartreuse jacquard, balancing that vintage ethos with a thoroughly current cut.

Party dresses — the brand’s bread and butter, no doubt — were available in whimsical and fun patterns, including striped sheer overlays, polka dots and more in black and silver. It was a return to form for a designer who is the best billboard for her own brand. Few designers live their label the way that Fetherston does, and she always looks cool, collected and fun in her creations — so it’s only natural that cool girls will be paying attention when these pieces hit stores next year.