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Mutations in the 4th Dimension

The never-ending search for that nonexistent ‘perfect’ is over. Normal is boring, conformity is so yesterday. Or, as Liam Hodges' A/W '19 press release sincerely puts it: “Slick control is no fun.”

Hodges' latest collection, "Mutations in the 4th Dimension,” which he presented on the first day of London Fashion Week Men's, revolves around the motif of a figure stuck between dimensions—but he’s far from lost. Instead, he seems entirely content in the state of unknowing, and on the path to discovery, which is continuously reflected throughout the clothes. Tees from the movie Hackers and Y2K-inspired graphics, including a bold "The Martians Are Coming To Save The Earth" print, graced models as they walked down an geometric enclosed catwalk in tracksuits, reworked Ellesse skiwear and Xerox glitch shirts inspired by artist Lee Bul.

In the past, Hodges has explored ideas of dystopia and apocalypse; this season, however, the designer carefully mixed '90s nostalgia with his (and AI inventor Ray Kurzweil's) vision for 2045. It's a world that's in struggle, stuck between dimensions, and the only singularity comes from the fact that we're all wearing clothes by Liam Hodges.

Collina Strada S/S '20

September 11, 2019

Hillary Taymour’s S/S '20 Collina Strada collection was as much an appeal to kindness as it was an appreciation for the wonders of the world and its inhabitants.

While the designer’s previous collections spoke to the overwhelming danger of climate change and the pain of wounded communities, her current show entitled "Thank You Very Much for Helping Me", responded to an increasingly precarious and wild reality with a more whimsical sensibility.

Grandmas, moms, small children, and everyone in between served looks that channeled your little cousin begging to put on a fashion show.

Each piece screamed life and sustainability. In a word, spring. Sarongs swished past, as did yards and yards of green swirls and yellow florals. Think rayon, chiffon, mesh, sequins, and Perler bead-studded bikini bottoms.

But it wasn’t all fun and games. Each outfit was consciously created with sustainability in mind, and a model ran past wearing almost nothing but the slogan WASTE NOT WANT NOT signed in sharpie across her body. Like the rest of Thank You Very Much for Helping Me, it was a cheerful display of kookiness meant to startle viewers into a slower view of the world. Check out more from the show below.

Kim Shui S/S '20

September 11, 2019

God created life in the form of Kim Shui. Twenty-something years later, the prophetess delivered us to the heavenly gates of Spring Studios. Today we witness the cementing of an icon. If you didn’t know her name before, you'll surely never forget it now. Say it with me: Kim… Shui.

These are just some of the eclectic references in Shui’s namesake design house; besides her trademark cargo pants, snake print, and corset. Cobalt glaze slithers on white porcelain screened onto a silk qipao, adorned with white lace-trimmed hosiery—in the background is a remix of Nicki Minaj. By the time, the model passes you, revealing an entirely bare backside, except for the cross lacing corset motif, an impression has been burnished into your mind. This is a woman who designs for women.

As the music pulsates through the show, and the silks alternate between sensual, and demure, you start to understand why it is you are here. The Kim Shui girl is not faint of heart, nor is she interested in dressing for the desires of the other. With a diverse cast of different body types, skin tones, and heights, Shui designs for women who enjoy dressing themselves, and take pride in being a woman.

Backstage after the show, the interviews never ceased; and everybody wants to hug their favorite it girl. Ever since Kylie Jenner broke the internet by matching with baby Stormi in KS F/W '19, Shui’s meteoric rise has been marked in stone. From winning the VFiles Runway to making Forbes’ 30 under 30 two years in a row, the CFDA partner unveiled a special collaboration with Fitbit on the S/S '20 catwalk.

And if that’s not enough, sprint over to the corner of Spring, and Wooster, right now. Kim’s head is projected onto the side of the Doc Martens store, staring into the souls of all passerby. It’s part of a promo campaign for E! Front Five docu-series on NYFW. We are now living in the era of Kim Shui. Check out more backstage photos from the show below.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh S/S '20

Maryam Nassir Zadeh began its S/S ‘20 show on the public courts of the Lower East Side and left the audience with the lasting feeling of having attended an evening beach party.

The collection infused a hint of the Mediterranean into MNZ’s Manhattan roots, with a lineup of bikinis to match her recent return from Spain’s isle of Formentera.

Against the court greens and chain-link backdrop of Sara D. Roosevelt Park, MNZ began by offering a line of pale outfits. Regal, curve-hugging dresses, sheer jumpsuits, and square-necked staple tops trailed past in bright white. A sophisticated and heavy-beaded top flashed by in cream, coupled only with peekaboo panties and mesh white gloves.

But MNZ was there to shock the audience, moving swiftly from elegant ensembles to an ankle-length layered skirt under a camo tank top not too far from one that I remember fashionably pairing with gauchos and chunky flip flops in childhood. From there, the collection was an effort in versatility, complete with pearlescent pink shorts, green check pants, and a cobalt blue dress.

Each piece felt impeccable, if almost slightly disjointed from the rest. MNZ tied the collection together with tiered ruffles, bra tops, and midriff, midriff, midriff. Favorite accessories reappeared—slanted knee-high boots, shoestring necklaces, and a double loop belt in cream, khaki, and metallic purple, whatever was needed to suit the moment, as versatile as MNZ herself. See the show below.