I recently signed up at a new local boulder gym and have quickly fallen in love with the sport. I've been using their rental shoes but figure it's time to get my own pair of shoes.

I've done a lot of research on shoes and I've read that I shouldn't get an aggressive shoe if I'm a beginner... However I tried on many different shoes and and read many, many reviews and I really like the Evolv Shamans.. Is this a bad idea since I'm a so new at the sport? If so, do you have any other suggestions? The guy at my local MEC shop wasn't very helpful. I don't want to cheap out and I don't care about price much... I just want a good quality shoe that will allow me to get better.

If price is no issue, go with the shoe that fits best. There is no way to determine which model or size is right until you try them out on an actual climb/problem. Things to check for: -Pain (less = better) -Heel cup fit (heel stays on, no large air pockets) -Edging (material around the inner edge of the big toe/outer edge of pinky toe does not have excessive flex,roll, or air pockets).

Does your gym have a proshop? If so, you can try on a wide range of different makes, models, and downturns to see what fits and works best for you.

If the gym does not have a good selection of shoes, buy a pair or two (or three!) from a shop with a good return policy. Let the salesperson know what you intend to do beforehand, and try them out (gently!!!) at your gym. Make your returns the shop accordingly and ASAP, taking home additional pairs to try before making your final decision. Keep in mind that some retailers (REI) will be fairly lax with this approach, while others may not be so tolerant.

After going back and trying even more shoes... about a dozen pairs and various sizes (with blisters on my feet from trying so many on) I bought the Scarpa Instinct S which seemed to fit the best. Going to try them out at my gym tonight to see how they feel. They have a great return policy.

If you're not worried about price then go ahead for the Shamans. You will likely destroy them quicker than you would another pair of shoes though. They will also probably be harder to resole and retain the same feel than if you resole a lower end shoe.