Lahaina’s banyan tree a treat to visitors

The 137-year-old banyan tree that towers over almost an acre of downtown Lahaina is said to be the largest such tree in the United States, so it’s understandably an iconic photo op on Maui, even though it’s not Hawaiian in origin.

According to its commemorative marker, Sheriff William Owen Smith planted the Indian specimen on April 24, 1873, to honor the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission in Lahaina (also seen as Lāhainā), “which was started at the request of Queen Keōpūolani, the sacred wife and widow of King Kamehameha the Great.” Thanks to its aerial roots, which grow into trunks when they touch ground, the generously shady tree is now supported by at least 16 trunks in addition to the original.

The tree and its island locale, a popular Halloween gathering place, were the subject of the Oct. 31 Sunday Quiz.Daniel “Pono” Sternbergh of Palo Alto was the first to answer correctly, which is impressive given that by his own admission he spends most of his Hawai’i time on Kaua’i. “But it’s hard to forget the beautiful banyan tree in Lahaina, Maui, once you’ve seen it and wandered under its network of aerial roots,” he wrote, continuing:

“My partner and I deviated from our usual Hawaii routine and made our way to Maui for my 35th birthday, and on my birthday afternoon I had a wonderful time wandering in downtown Lahaina — if I recall correctly, it was Sunday with ‘artists under the banyan,’ or some such activity going on, so I got to wander from stall to stall enjoying the work of local artists.”

In fact, most Saturdays and Sundays the He U’i Arts and Crafts Festival takes place under the tree from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with live music as well as sales and cultural demonstrations; from 7 to 10 p.m. Friday nights, the many art galleries in Lahaina also feature artist demos and refreshments. (For details on other Lahaina events under or around the banyan tree, such as this year’s holiday lighting Dec. 4-5, click here.

Ken Zinns of Oakland, who’s hoping to get back to Maui next year, called the famed banyan “a nice place to take a break from the hot sun” (one meaning of Lāhainā is “cruel or merciless sun”), adding:

There always seems to be an interesting assortment of activities going on under that huge old tree — people taking photos, people sitting on the benches and relaxing or talking, people selling arts & crafts and other things, and a few oddball characters hanging around too.

Somewhat racier experiences — perhaps more typical of Halloween — came to mind for Michael Cordova of San Francisco: “I have made out many a night underneath that tree. And I might have passed out in 2005 after a night of fun on Front Street on Oct. 31st.”

“I’ve never been there on Halloween, but I understand it gets really crazy and crowded,” wrote Susan Cochran of Santa Cruz. “I read a few weeks ago that some of the merchants are angry that they’re not going to block off Front Street to cars this year.”

The crowds and risque costumes that some community members felt were inappropriate in the former seat of Hawaiian royalty led to Maui officials revoking a permit for organized adult activities in 2008, which have not been allowed to resume. Despite the disappointment over the decision not to block car traffic this year, most bars and restaurants were expecting as busy a Halloween as ever. Lahaina activities started with a children’s parade, a teen gathering by the banyan and revelry into the night. The Maui News reported a few disorderly conduct calls (drinking in the historic district is not permitted by the way), it appears to have been a safe and festive experience for most participants.

Jeanne Cooper / Special to SFGate

Lahaina’s sprawling banyan tree makes a fun photo op by day and provides a comfortable roost for mynahs at night.

But more readers recalled family-friendly tales under the banyan like the multigenerational story of Jessica Contreras of McKinney, Texas:

My family has many fond memories of sitting under this tree on vacations. I have pictures of myself with my grandparents under the tree, and now my own daughter has pictures with her grandparents (my parents) under the tree. We have been visiting Maui every summer and we love it!

Carol Siegal of Orinda has “vivid memories” of being there with her husband and 2-year-old daughter about 10 years ago:

She was just struggling to walk on her own (it would finally happen a week later back home at a music class.) We had purchased her some colorful rubber Hawaiian sandals and were each holding one of her hands. We were under the huge tree and helping her while she teetered on her chubby legs and tried to chase birds!

Also among those identifying the tree and its location: Ray Kozak of Contra Costa County, Shelley Batker of Burnsville, Minnesota, and Jennifer Penner of Oakland, who sent along a photo of another “picturesque” banyan on Maui, where she just spent 11 days. It’s on the Pipiwai Trail leading to Waimoku Falls above the ‘Ohe’o Gulch (on the Kīpahulu/Hāna side of Haleakalā National Park), “not nearly as large but it makes a great photo,” she notes. Judge for yourself below, and thanks to all who responded to this week’s quiz:

Jennifer Penner

This eye-catching banyan on Maui is found along the Pipiwai Trail in Haleakalā National Park.