I had a 13lbs single speed rigid that I was doing 2-3 foot drops on a regular basis with never an issue and I am 85kg's. It has to do more with riding style than weight. I haven't even had to true the wheels. Add some gears to that and you are up to 14.5 lbs and really would do the same thing on that as well.

I also think it's very much achievable, but of course there will be some compromises. Especially since it's not a sub 1kg frame. I can't be running e.g 700 gm tires and XTR pedals.

I feel bad about yesterday, so today it's one part that's (hopefully) more fun!

Brakes

Last year I used Shimano XTR and loved them. They felt really great, with good modulation and lever feel. The power was nothing to complain about, even with New Ultimate rotors. I've used Sram/Avid in the past and hated them, so that was not an option (even though it would match other pieces on my bike, hint hint). This year I decided to try something new! Formula r1 racings! They look really great in shiny, although I would have preferred all black - Batman style. The weights are as following:

I need to cut around 35 cm on the rear and 25 cm of the front, shaving around 15 g or so. So the brakes in total will be 369g with bolts, without rotors. I currently have 2x KCNC 160mm @ 74g rotors, but I'm looking for some Innolites or Scrub workhorse. Which performs better?

This is 1 of the 2 parts on my bike I'm not 100% sure about if I'm going to use or not. However, they were so cheap and so light, and I loved gripshift in the past, so I thought I'd might as well give it a shot. I'd might do some dremeling on the clamps to save a gram or two, along with some dremeling on the derailleurs. It really depends on the frame. Not worth dremeling a total of 15 grams if the frame is an anchor IMO. The shifters are of course tuned with alu bolts

Regarding the brakerotors: does anybody have Innolites or Scrubs to sell me so I can test them? If I get the time tomorrow, I'll do seating zone. As a teaser I can tell you that it's a quite popular saddle, but not many people use it this way.

Most people seem to like it, and I'm sorry to say that you have to endure some more pictures with the cyclepassion-calendar as a background. But since you ask so nicely, here you go :

Wheels

I've asked quite a few builders what's good and not, and read a lot online. I wanted the race rims, I wanted the lightest FRM rims, and I wanted the gold rims. However, most builders seem to agree on that these are too soft to be actually usable, so I went looking for something else. I've always loved Stans rims, and have ridden them for the past years, alongside some Crossmax slrs, Shimano and Fulcrum. I really like the low profile beadhooks and the wide rim, and of course the weight. I had a long discussion with (amongst others) Michael Bogen from r2-bike, and these are the wheels I chose.

Last year I ran the podium MMX/3.30ti wheelset and was happy with that, but in the roughest fastest part I wanted more precision and stiffness of the wheel. I push a 1350w 5-sec, 720w 1-min, 410w 5min and a 330w FTP, and being quite bold on the descents I felt I needed the stiffness of the Crest. If I were to choose from everything in the world, I would have used a carbon rim. But I'm a student, so money is not unlimited (although a high budget on this build).

In order to reach my goal, the hubs needed to be light. So that left Tune prince/princess skyline and Extralite hyperfront/rear. I went with the Extralites because of the lighter weight + 500m down the road from where I live I have an importer of Extralite and spare parts.

For spokes there was either the Sapim superspokes or CX-rays. On advice from r2-bike and well renowned wheelbuilders, the superspokes would be too flexy and stretch too much to build a solid wheel, so CX-rays it is then.

After I saw Culturesponges air9 build I saw his wheels in all-black and LOVED it, so I decided to do the same. I removed the decals and saved 4 grams. The wheels will be set up with Stans yellow tape and valves and run tubeless with sealant.

More pictures! Oh happy days. I missed yesterday, so more pictures than usual today Tomorrow I'll do derailleurs

Saddle

This was for me a no-brainer. I've been on this saddle since 2007, and my ass still loves it, so I see no reason to change it. People can say oh you should change to that saddle because it is comfier or change to that saddle because it's lighter with the same comfort. I like this saddle, so this is staying

Tune speedneedle: This was the leather version. It came in at 90g standard, but I've removed the leather as it got ugly a while back, and been riding it leatherless since. Weight now is 72 grams

Next, I need something to mount the saddle on. I know I'm short, but not so short that I can ride post-less. This one is a sexy one!

Seatpost

I was lucky enough to buy a Schmolke seatpost from user elfuinha, and it looks brand new and un-used. It is a 31.6x375mm, and it's the SL version. The yokes were quite heavy, so I bought some KCNC ones instead, dropping 4 grams. However, the threads on the Schmolke yokes and the KCNC yokes are different, so I guess I'll have to drill up some new threads or just accept the 4 gram penalty. Weight is 122 w/Schmolke yokes, and 118 w/KCNC

I wanted something light, but I don't trust the 5gram carbon ones. So I got one that was twice as heavy and with a 6.5Nm max limit. It looks plain and simple, and it performs well. It's made by Procraft, and I got it cheap at R2-bike.de Weight: 10 grams

I've shown you the front end, except for what I use to turn the bars around. I also need a headset.

Headset

I call it the Frankenset! At first I ordered a Fun-works one along with the gripshifters from actionsports.de. When the frame came, it came with an FSA headset, and at the LBS they had a Canecreek carbon top-cap. Pictures are with the Funworks cap, but the Canecreek dropped 2 grams. I used the Fun-works crown race and lower bearing, FSA upper and Canecreek dust cap. Total of 69 grams.

Now for a part that I'm veeeery curious about. It feels so light it can't be true, but most people say that they perform well. I can't wait to test it out!

Cables and housing

I decided to try Powercordz for this build. I've read reviews about how great they are and how durable they are, so I pre-ordered a prime set for derailleurs. One set was enough for my bike, and I even had 29 gram left after cutting it. It came with a 202 cm housing. Total weight for my bike: 31 grams

MTB derailleurs are quite heavy compared to road ones, so for my build I went with a Dura Ace 7900 derailleur with a Carbon-ti x-pull converter and alu bolts. The derailleur was 78 grams stock, the x-pull was 4 grams. I changed the clampbolt + wire bolt to alu, and kept the titanium bolt to attach the x-pull to the derailleur. Total weight: 79 grams

I've always used Shimano derailleurs, except for 4 months when I tried x.0 (when it was the top of the line). Shimano XTR are great products, no doubt about that, but this time I wanted something sexier. So I went with the Sram XX. Only thing is that it is too heavy. Easy fix --> carbon pulleys. Weight stock: 180g with 23g pulleys. Changed them to 9g Roth Shek pulleys. End weight: 166g

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