When I mentioned the 14.5V test reading to the R&D engineer at Trailtech he told me that was over spec even though the owner of the bike had never touched the epoxy sealed adjustment pot and like you had been happy with charging for last 2 years.

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Examples like this one reinforce my belief that manufacturing/performance specs on many moto products are often a guess at best. One the one hand my charging system works when supposedly it shouldn't. Your charging system doesn't work as it should even though there are no identifiable faults, and I have a garage full of products that don't work as well as they should.

I have a full summer running the trailtech reg with a ballistic battery and no issues.. but then again,, my voltage during charging is the correct 14.4 what a charging system should put out.. If I had a reg doing less, like under 14 at less than 1K rpm it would be going back to the manufacturer. I have VR's on small kawasaki single 11hp motors that have no issue going to 14.1 just off idle.. DC current. I have issue with TT regulators if they have less or should have less. I'll buy a ricky stator next, I bought the ricky stator brand stator and even tho its rumored that is who makes TT ones it looked nicer in terms of windings than the last TT one I installed. and it was 13.8 idle with the crappy lead yusa 4 battery, and just over 1000-1200 rpm went over 14, best I got was 14.6. The lead yusa 4 was only good for 3-4 tries starting the 450 so I went ballistic and its been great all season. not had one issue yet. Knock on wood.. and I run a 85w h4 on road, led signals and reg bulb tail light.

speaking of trailtech stators.. I just put one in my 05 525 stator/reguilator 8310 kit. doing this does it convert everything to dc just plugging it all in per instructions or do I have to do anything else?

speaking of trailtech stators.. I just put one in my 05 525 stator/reguilator 8310 kit. doing this does it convert everything to dc just plugging it all in per instructions or do I have to do anything else?

I did not use the DC harness.

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Yes it converts to all DC. "DC Harness". Do you mean the jumper that runs from behind the headlight for switched DC? I think you only need that if you have a Euro harness (whereby the lights will otherwise always be on).

Yes it converts to all DC. "DC Harness". Do you mean the jumper that runs from behind the headlight for switched DC? I think you only need that if you have a Euro harness (whereby the lights will otherwise always be on).

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right on thanks.

how many watts does the KTM fan kit take and charging? that leaves me with what 60 usable?

Hi!
As I have said before, I bought an EXC520 (2000) before about 2 months.
So after riding about first 5 awesome hours the motorcycle stopped when I was switching gears, the engine was stuck and there was oil leaking through clutch side cover gasket. My friend who is good motorcycle mechanic, dismantled the clutch side and under the sprocket No.9 (in picture) there was needles of the needle bearing a little disordered.
He said that could be because of loosen nut No.1.
After the repair I have ridden about 1 hour and today after 20 minutes of riding, when I switched gear, THIS HAPPENED AGAIN!
The engine is stuck and oil leaking beside the new clutch side gasket (bottom).
(Additional info: the gears can be switched and oil level both times was OK)
Why is this happening, what could be wrong with the engine?

Update (26.09.2012 22:08)..
We have not yet opened the cover, but we just read the manual, which says: "Degrease the thread of the crankshaft and coat it with Loctite 243. Mount the collar nut and tighten to 150Nm."
Friend did not use Loctite and says he tighted it to about 80Nm (as he did not have the manual at the first time). So tommorrow we will probably see if this is the problem again.
He says that I should be happy because the engine instantly stucked/wedged and so no sprockets were damaged.

Update (26.09.2012 22:08)..
We have not yet opened the cover, but we just read the manual, which says: "Degrease the thread of the crankshaft and coat it with Loctite 243. Mount the collar nut and tighten to 150Nm."
Friend did not use Loctite and says he tighted it to about 80Nm (as he did not have the manual at the first time). So tommorrow we will probably see if this is the problem again.
He says that I should be happy because the engine instantly stucked/wedged and so no sprockets were damaged.

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Check the shift drum locking lever and also drop your oil and pull the screens to see if there are any bits of metal in them.

I assume you are also running the TT regulator? It and the Lithium Ion batteries are supposedly not a great combo. Trailtech told me that they are not compatible with the Shorai. And for the Turntech Lithium, from the horses mouth: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/81...ement/page__st__40__p__10104600#entry10104600. Probably good you got the one with lots of capacity and have the HID Talking to Joe, if you have a lot of accessory draw, it sounds like it can be borderline.

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Oh, that's disappointing. I was hoping to go for a li ion battery because the yuasa's don't like sitting around for long periods of time - which mine does...

I think there are typically 2 issues that can lead to incompatibility issues:
1) the charging voltage.
2) how much the RR relies on the capacitative effect of the battery to give a smooth voltage. As li ion batteries reach full charge, the current they will accept nears zero - so its capacitative effect nears zero.

Check the shift drum locking lever and also drop your oil and pull the screens to see if there are any bits of metal in them.

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Well, yesterday I opened the cover, and checked the oil screens. The drum locking lever was ok. The screens were clean. And we predicted, the big nut on the crankshaft was loose again. So loose that it has lost about 0.5mm of itself by grinding against the clutch side cover.

I have got a Loctite-like threadlocker, a little stronger than Loctite 243. How do you think, will that loctite and 150Nm hold the nut forever? (I mean till I will want to open it myself )

When the nut is loose can you turn the gear under it? It should have no play in it.
If the nut has been left loose to long the key and keyway will flog out which alows the gear to turn back a forward a few degrees.
If this has happened no amount of loctite or big spanners are going to stop that nut coming loose.

I had the same problem with mine so I fixed it by getting the next size key up and then grinding it down until it was a snug fit in the worn keyway.
I then put red loctite on the shaft then slid the gear on, loctited the nut and tightened it with the air rattle gun as tight as it would go.

It's never come loose since.
If I ever need to take it off a bot of heat and the rattle gun will break it loose.

talk to me about thermostat deletion for an 07 rfs. i remember seeing cody's "plug" on the right rad, i think that was part of the deal?
i was looking at samco hoses for the thermo delete, but can't seem to find it anywhere.

talk to me about thermostat deletion for an 07 rfs. i remember seeing cody's "plug" on the right rad, i think that was part of the deal?
i was looking at samco hoses for the thermo delete, but can't seem to find it anywhere.