Metal Roofing

·Properly installed metal will survive wind
that will devastate asphalt or fiberglass shingles.

·Metal with proper ductility will not show
dents when hail decimates asphalt or fiberglass shingles.

·A properly installed and maintained metal roof
will have a very long life and can last over 100 years.

·Metal roofs are quick and easy to install.

·Metal roofs are light weight 65 to 85 lbs. per
square compared to 225 to 350 lbs. per square for shingles.

·Properly installed metal roofs shed snow and
ice easily, and will not absorb or be damaged by water.

·Metal roofs are non-combustible.

·Akzo Nobel’s CERAM-A-STAR® 1050 coated steel
roofing reflects the sunʼs heat instead of absorbing it like asphalt and
fiberglass shingles, helping to keep your home cooler in the summer.

·Is Metal roofing noisy?

Most of us have been in a building with a metal roof during a rain or hail
storm and never noticed any unusual noise. That is because the noise is
virtually the same as it would be for asphalt and fiberglass shingles when
installed over a roof deck.

Metal roofing installed on purlins will create noise during rain and hail
storms. This is common with post frame buildings. On houses the metal roofing
is installed on top of decking with a felt barrier between the metal and the
deck (i.e. new construction) or is installed over an existing shingled roof
often with a barrier between, such as fan fold insulation. In either case the
noise is minimal because the panel is unable to move air as it can with the
open spaces between purlins.

Surface Preperation

Surface Preparation

·What about new construction?Like shingles, sheath the roof, lay roofing felt and install the metal panels.
Although there are builders who use 15 lb., 30 lb. felt is recommended.
Shingles removed from sheathing would be treated as new construction.

·What about metal panel installed over existing
shingles?There are plenty of examples of metal roofing being installed directly on top
of shingles. Metal installed directly over shingles will mirror the shape of
the shingle creating an appearance problem in the eyes of many. Some builders
lay felt directly over the shingles and then lay the metal. If the shingles are
very flat this may hide the shingle shape and certainly 30 lb. felt will work
better than 15 lb. felt. Fan fold insulation applied directly over the shingles
with the metal tends to solve all of the shingle shape issues. If you are using
an exposed fastener panel the screws should be installed on top of the rib
anytime you install over shingles.

·What about stripping the roof with nailers?This can be done, however the air space created between the nailers should be
either insulated or vented. If the air space is not filled with insulation or
vented, you will likely have a condensation problem. This can cause mold and
mildew under the roof panel and premature metal panel failure.

·How do you hide the old shingles under the
metal at the edges?“J” Channel is commonly used at both the eaves and the gable ends to cover the
old shingles and extending roof edge.

Handling On Site and Cutting Panels

·How do I prevent scratching?Donʼt slide the panels from end to end in the bundle. Remove each sheet one at
a time from the side of the bundle.

·Will scratches cause rust?The scratch may cause rust only if it is deep enough to cut through the paint
and zinc coat. Even then, the zinc coat will only allow a line of rust slightly
greater than the width of the scratch, often small enough that it is hard to
see.

·What should I do about scratches?Touch up paint is available and is always a good idea. But if you can live with
the cosmetics of the scratch, most of the time just leaving it will not shorten
panel life.

·How do I cut panels?Large tin snips (12") are best for most cross cutting and small cuts. Left
and right handed aviation snips can be useful for tight cutting and some trim
work. Electric shears are best for cutting panels from end to end. Electric
nibblers will do all kinds of cuts. There are also pneumatic shears and
nibblers. If you will be frequently cross cutting panels day after day there
are also large guillotine shears available that are fast and easy. A saber saw
or jig saw is O.K. and works well for cutting the hidden fastener panels. It is
useful to make a jig for those panels. Cut ¾" plywood 15½"x96".
Cut a second piece 20" and screw them together. Place the panel upside
down on the jig and cut it with a jig saw. If you are cutting angles for a
valley or hip the plywood jig could be cut at the appropriate angles.

·What about a circular saw?This method is frequently used by many, however no manufacturer of metal panels
would recommend it regardless of whether the blade is an abrasive metal blade
or a cross cut blade turned backwards. Any blade in a circular saw will cause
enough heat to cause sparks. This amount of heat will damage the paint coating
and the zinc coating. The result will be red rust and a shortened panel life
depending on how the panel is installed. The paint often peels near the cut
several years after it was heated up. Also, the sparks often land on nearby
panels and burn through the coatings, causing pen point rust spots. The cut
edge left by a circular saw is also quite jagged.

Snap-Loc Standing Seam

This is a durable concealed fastener roof
system with easy snap together installation. This architectural panel system
uses minimally visible fasteners, giving your building a clean, attractive
finish. The panel’s easy snap-on ribs attach rapidly with no hand seaming,
making installation less expensive than traditional standing seam.