Description

They don't call this Avalanche Falls for nothing! Be aware of avalanche terrain both above and below the route.

Approach:

After parking in the Mary Jane parking lot, hike back down the road to Echo Well No. 3. Turn right (south) and enter the small - usually unplowed - parking lot. You may park here if you can get in. Ascend an avalanche gully above the well and parking lot. Eventually the gully will split. At this point one should be able to see the falls above and to the left. Climb the left gully to the base of the falls at approximately 8600 feet. The approach should take about an hour.

Note: The cleft above and to the right periodically gets ice...

Route:

Ascend the pillar to the top of the falls in a single stout pitch.

Descent:

Rappel the route.

Protection

Ice Screws. A V-Threader and extra cord may be required for the rappel.