Just in time for the cool fall weather, Toki Underground just announced it will start afternoon service on November 4. The regular lineup of ramen and dumplings will be available Monday through Saturday 11:30 to 2:30. And yes, like most evenings, those 23 coveted seats are first come, first served. (Speed eaters should hope the frequently hours-long waits don’t translate to lunch.) There are no plans for to-go options at lunch, but evening takeout service will continue.

Diners at Union Market can get a taste, too. Chef Erik Bruner-Yang launches a ramen pop-up this Wednesday, October 23, that will run Wednesday through Saturday until November 3. The menu is a departure from the restaurant: Look out for shoyu ramen ($12 per bowl), which derives its flavor from a soy-based broth in place of the rich, porky tonkotsu-style that is Toki’s signature.

Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.