776: The Tricksters of Tokyo
With dozens of magic bars and a small army of illusionists, Tokyo
has a whole lot of tricks up its sleeve775: Meet Markets
From nightclubs to dance lessons to, um, wax museums, locals offer their tips on where to find a date in Tokyo774: Screen Dreams
A digital-age literary form has become a publishing powerhouse773: Red Star Rising
With global Capitalism on the ropes, local Communism is on the rise772: Spirited Away
In her newly translated memoir, Sakie Yokota recounts a mother’s ultimate nightmare770-71: Turning Japanese
Get your new year off to a crafty start by learning a traditional hobby769: Last call for Kabukicho
As the iconic Koma Theater goes under the wrecking ball, is this the end of Tokyo’s notorious red-light district?768: Annus Scandalous
A year’s worth of food safety scandals has upset Japan’s applecart767: The Giving Season
Picking presents is easy with our can't miss gift guide766: Odd Jobs
Foreigners are finding creative ways to make a living in Tokyo765: Hot Water
Tokyo’s onsen are open and ready for business764: Showa Sweetness
Nostalgia for the postwar era has revived the market for vintage snacks and toys. From 200-year-old shops to gleaming mega-malls, everything old in Tokyo is new agains763: Peace Prize
After going missing in Mexico for more than 30 years, Taro Okamoto’s Myth of Tomorrow is about to be unveiled inside Shibuya station. Here’s the inside story of the efforts to recover and restore one of the artist’s most stunning works762: Get out the Vote
The 2000 US Presidential election proved that every vote counts—especially those cast from overseas. This time around, expats are making sure their voices are heard761: Murderer’s Row
A rogue’s gallery of heinous killers reveals the dark soul of a nation760: Game on!
A new book takes readers inside Tokyo’s game centers and offers tips on how to clean up759: Latin Lover
Pop singer, erotic actress, lingerie model, pro-sex activist—Aya Sugimoto is a one-woman cultural phenomenon. Now she’s adding tango to her repertoire758: A Tour for all Seasons
By land, sea or air, Tokyo’s sightseeing companies have an outing that’s right for you757: Join the Club
Get a taste of the good life at Tokyo’s exclusive membership clubs756: Drive Time
From unruly passengers to political scandals, Tokyo’s cabbies travel a rough road to success755: Off the Books
Toss away your tourist guides—Metropolis gives you the scoop
on Tokyo’s true hotspots754: Troubled Waters
As typhoon season looms, Tokyo finds that its flood-prevention efforts are all wet 753: Sign of the Times
Say goodbye to “High Touch Town.” Roppongi is about to get a new Logo to go along with its new image752: Carrie Nation
As Sex and the City: The Movie opens in Tokyo, Japanese women are emulating their big-screen heroines751: Air Fair
Fuel costs are sending airfares into the stratosphere. What’s a poor traveler to do?750: Face Off
Each year on August 15, downtown Tokyo turns into a riot zone as right-wing militants clash with antiwar protestors. Metropolis gives you a ringside seat to all the action749: Gold standard
As all eyes turn to Beijing, Japan’s Olympians Look to repeat their Athens Success748: [Sub]urban Pleasuresl
Futako-Tamagawa offers attractions ranging from the spiritual to the cultural to the culinary. Here’s an insider’s guide TO THIS leafy Setagaya-ku neighborhood747: Dressed to Thrill
As the summer sizzles with major cosplay events across Japan, the industry branches out in bold new directions746: Long Live the Queen
TV host Charles Ayres scours the city for his prince745: State of the Art
Why collecting Japanese contemporary art is right, now744: Here Be Monsters
From ESP labs to Pokemon panics to death cults, Japan is a wonderland of the bizarre. Metropolis takes a Fortean approach to the country’s mysteries743: Quick Fixes
It’s smooth sailing for Tokyo’s plastic surgeons as more and more people take the plunge742: Ladies Night Out
An evening in Tokyo’s underbelly reveals the bare essentials for a girl about town741: On the Move
Connecting Shibuya with Ikebukuro (finally!), Tokyo’s last major subway line is ready to roll. Hop onboard the nifty new Fukutoshin line740: Jero Worship
Japan can’t get enough of the first African-American enka singer739: Shooting Asia
In Looking East, iconic photographer Steve McCurry portrays the continent and its people 738: All Dolled Up
Despite negative stereotypes and shifting demographics, Tokyo’s doll industry is booming737: Air Time
Tokyo’s high-flying team of parkour enthusiasts let no obstacle stand in their way736: Ask Mr Movie Man
Just in time for Golden Week, Don Morton previews the current crop of cinematic offerings734: Fighting Back
Victims are finally learning to speak out against Japan’s outdated rape laws733: Echoes of the Past
During the Meiji era, Tokyo’s love affair with foreign architecture—and architects—took flight. Traces of their work remain scattered throughout the city732: Bar Time
Part cookbook, part pub guide and part cultural exploration, Izakaya offers an entrée into “Japan’s friendliest dining experience”731: Burning Rubber
Two lightweight sports cars go head-to-head before the first round of the Formula Nippon race series730: True Blu
Sony is flying high after its Blu-ray format defeated Toshiba’s HD DVD. But the electronics giant now faces even greater challenges from the internet729: Green Scene
Get to the roots of Japan’s fascination with nature728: Local Heros
As the Boston Red Sox open their season in Tokyo, the popularity of American baseball is at an all-time high727: Akihabara on the Run
Thanks to otaku culture, Akihabara is the symbol of “Cool Japan.”
But with developers moving in, will the geeks be left behind?726: Records of the Rising Sun
An examination of Japan’s world-beaters yields a “superlative” understanding of the country725: A Time to Play
Tucked away in back alleys and basements, Tokyo’s underground jazz clubs welcome fans and musicians of all stripes—especially foreigners724: Thin Is In
Ultra-small homes offer an attractive option for Japan’s space-starved urbanites723: Say it with Giri-Choco
A short history of Valentine’s Day in Japan722: Rush Hour
Two women. Two vehicles. Six destinations. One winner.721: Cool Erotica
Forget cute. From music to TV to the world of Adult films, Japanese women are flaunting their sexuality720: Top of the Town
Your choices for the best that Tokyo has to offer718-719: Centers of Attention
The past year saw a host of dazzling shopping and dining centers make their debut in Tokyo717: At Your Convenience
Competition and changing demographics are forcing Japan’s conbini to change with the times716: The Wacky Wired World of Thanko
Akihabara’s most playful gadget-maker looks beyond the otaku market715: In the Spirit
Spreading Christmas cheer is a breeze this season with our handy gift guide714: The Air Up There
The X-Trail Jam in Tokyo dome heralds the arrival of winter with lights, cameras and high-flying action713: The Return of the Benshi
Seventy-five years after their heyday, Japan’s silent-film narrators are breathing new life into cinema classics712: In the Box
Karaoke hits the global stage 711: No Man's Land
The haikyo phenomenon shines a light on Japan’s ghost towns, deserted islands and abandoned spaces 710: Man With The Plan
Companies are getting a new lease on life from sharp entrepreneurs like Gen Tamatsuka and his team at Revamp Corp 709: Sword Play
Afro Samurai, the first Japanese manga to make its anime debut in English, is breaking all boundaries. Metropolis speaks with its creator ahead of the movie version’s Tokyo premiere708: State of the Art
For foreign artists, Japan offers both an inspiration and a challenge. Six local talents talk about overcoming difficulty and creating their own niche in a land far from home707: Signs of the Times
One of Japan’s last movie billboard artists carries the torch of a fading art form706: Mix Masters
Tokyo’s Bartenders Hop on the Mixology Train705: Fight For Your Rights
Local unions are helping foreign workers make their voices heard. But can non-Japanese ever really get a fair shake?704: Fashion Forward
With a renewed focus and revamped format, Japan Fashion Week aims to put Tokyo designers on the world map. But can the country’s flagship event keep homegrown talent from defecting overseas?703: True Believers
With the opening of a new mosque in Yokohama, Japan’s Muslim community is branching out. But can the locals learn to coexist with a misunderstood and stigmatized religion?702: Hard Time
After Three Weeks in a Shinjuku Lock-Up, the author finds that justice in Japan is rough indeed701: Marunouchi on the Move
An ambitious 10-year plan is turning the neighborhood into one of Tokyo’s most exciting destinations700: A Few Of Our Favorite Things
To celebrate 700 issues as Japan's favorite English magazine, we offer our top picks for enjoying Tokyo. Now it’s your turn…699: Fantasy Dining
Dramatic eating and drinking experiences await at Tokyo's theme restaurants698: Come One, Come All To Yasukuni
Each August, the notorious shrine becomes a battleground in the struggle for Japan's self-identity697: Cool Runnings
As registration for the 2008 Tokyo Marathon enters the homestretch, one runner recounts her experiences in the inaugural race
696: Two-Wheel Dreaming
Although Japan’s motorcycle industry is in decline, biking in Kanto still offers limitless pleasure. Here’s everything you need to know to get started
695: Past Perfect
Tree-lined paths, traditional crafts, historic temples—plus world-class restaurants and shopping—await in the cool hills of Yanesen
694: Hooking Up
Business networking opportunities abound in Tokyo for anyone who knows where—and how—to look
693: Future Tense
As writers and academics converge on Tokyo to explore the explosion of Japanese pop culture, the country's youth face an uncertain future
692: Battle of the Burgers
As Burger King returns to Japan after a six-year absence, fast food restaurants are pulling out all the stops to attract more customers
691: Big into Japan
From shakuhachi to sake to sushi, foreign artisans are bringing Japan to a wider audience
690: Art Attack
Tokyo's Contemporary Art Galleries Ride the Waves of Boom and Bust
689: Graffiti Nation
From walls to road signs to art galleries, Tokyo gets tagged out
688: Messengers of Life
Seven years after losing her son to a drunk driver, Kyoko Suzuki spearheads a campaign to raise public awareness of the issue
687: Boy Toys
No longer under the shadow of their sisters, Japan’s hosts have taken center stage
686: Design Triumph
With three new Tokyo restaurants, Sir Terence Conran looks to infuse the local dining scene with his distinctive sense of style
685: Festival Frenzy
Asakusa is set to go crazy for the three-day Sanja Matsuri
684: Spin Masters
Foreign independent label partners look to crack open Japan’s music industry
683: Ginza's Rumbling Road
It’s full speed ahead for Tokyo’s only private motorway
682: Time To Play
Stuck in Tokyo for Golden Week? Make the most of your holiday with these 15 can’t-miss activities
681: Dying For It
As the Lucie Blackman murder trial comes to a close, foreign hostesses in Tokyo are aware of the industry’s dangers
680: Japan Gone Wild
Tabloid Tokyo 2 uncovers the city in all its seamy glory
679: Great Heights
Roppongi undergoes another transformation with the opening of Tokyo Midtown
678: The Once and Future Ninja
A grandmaster carries on the legacy of Japan’s secretive art—and says foreign students may be its last hope for survival
677: Crime Spree
Foreigners who turn to Japan’s justice system for help find themselves ignored. Is incompetence to blame—or racism?
676: Game On
From rugby to volleyball, Tokyo has a sports team for you
675: Drawing a Crowd
Japanese youth have been rushing to put themselves under the needle. Is the centuries-old tattooing subculture finally gaining mainstream acceptance?
674: Star Shots
Leslie Kee’s mammoth photo book gathers Asia’s biggest celebrities for a good cause
673: Spirited Away
Despite tough new laws, Japan’s sex trafficking industry is booming. Meet one of its most tragic victims
672: Tuning Out
Japanese radio stations have forgotten about the listeners. But all signals point to big changes ahead
671: Dream Works
Director John Williams is making a name for himself in the world of Japanese film
670: Unwinding the Gyroball
Daisuke Matsuzaka is headed to the US Major Leagues with a super-secret pitch in his arsenal. Or is he?
669: Sole City
Want to look fashionable in the street-style capital of the world? Hint: Use your feet
668: Last of the Speed Tribes
Their theatrics are preserved in photos, but little else remains of Japan’s bosozoku biker boys
667: Who’s the Boss of You?
If you can break the bureaucracy, there is nothing more rewarding than starting your own business
666: Good sports
From baseball sizzle to World Cup fizzle, Japan’s athletes had a wild 2006
665: Return of the Peacemaker
Humanitarian aid worker and former hostage Nahoko Takato won’t give up on her personal mission to alleviate suffering in Iraq
664: Hard to swallow
Japan makes a lot of noise about its cultural right to hunt whale, so why isn’t anyone biting?
663: Time for giving
Avoid last-minute Xmas anxiety with Metropolis’ seasonal gift guide
662: Downhill from here
Itching to hit the slopes this winter? The Metropolis winter resort guide is the place to start
661: No Mo’ Drama
Two visits from Michael Jackson make 2006 a thriller year for music promoter Broderick Morris
660: Gone but not forgotten
An award-winning film keeps the candle burning for Megumi Yokota, who was abducted by North Korean agents 29 years ago
659: Kids’ night out
Children get a taste of what awaits them in adulthood at Kidzania
658: The Samurai in Shirokanedai
Mikio Yahara fights to keep the spirit of budo alive in the 21st century
657: Dynamite Design
This month, Tokyo becomes the world’s No.1 designer destination. Among the creative crowd, here are four faces to watch
656: How to get ahead
Corporate hunger for bilingual professionals keeps ruthless recruiters on their toes
655: Mori and Me
Five years after establishing Tokyo’s most prestigious art space, Japan’s first foreign museum director says sayonara
654: Big Kids
From comics to figurines, toys aren’t just for boys anymore. Grownups, even women, can play too
653: Here’s looking at you
So you always wanted to be a model? Now’s your chance
652: Doggy style
A decade ago, Tokyo canines were lonely sentinels chained up outside. today, a dog’s life is one of Tinkerbellesque luxury
651: The China Syndrome
As politicians wrangle, Japanese living in China are making money and building friendships
650: In The Mix
Networking websites give the bashful new opportunities for social interaction
649: Noh Way
A new season of Japan’s oldest theatrical art form starts this month
648: Wonder boy
From a troubled youth in Los Angeles to sold-out arenas in Japan, Cyril is enjoying a magical ride
647: Lights, camera, gaijin
Famous foreigners spill the beans ABOUT working in Japanese TV
646: No heels, no life
Girl tribes create fashion anarchy in the urban jungle of Shibuya
645: Local Hero
Foreign-born parliamentarian Marutei Tsurunen turns heads in nagatacho. but can he change minds too?
644: Southern Exposure
What happens when you travel from the busiest city on the planet to the remotest spot on earth? One photographer found out—and took his diary with him
643: The Meaning of LOHAS
The pioneer behind Japan’s sustainable lifestyles craze goes back to basics
642: Nights to Remember
Taste the good life at ten unique Tokyo hotels
641: SONY at 60
Will Japan’s most famous company get a new lease on life, or early retirement?
640: Turning Japanese
For better or for worse, pop stars everywhere have got something to say about Japan
639: Life’s a Beach
Here comes the sun, so get ready to strip off, oil up and catch some rays
638: You Go, GIRLS!
Japanese women demand equality in the workplace
637: 20/20 Vision
The Tokyo-born Pecha Kucha phenomenon has the global creative community hooked
636: The World is not Enough
Led by a low-key coach, Japan’s soccer team limps into the World Cup
635: A dying breed
Japan’s smokers are feeling the heat as the government slowly tackles tobacco
634: The Real Tokyo Underworld
Beneath our streets, engineers are thinking big to keep the city functioning
633: Cool Biz
Rich, confident and creative, corporate Japan is giving itself a makeover
632: Treat Yourself
Tokyo is famous for its eclectic health treatments, some wonderful, others just weird. We dispatched a skeptic to try ten of the most maverick
631: Pocket Revolutionaries
With podcasting, anyone (even Metropolis) can be a DJ
630: Flower power
Spring in Tokyo is the start of a vibrant cycle of new colors that abound even in this concrete jungle
629: Man vs Mountain
For Tokyo resident Blair Falahey, Everest is just one more obstacle to overcome
628: Little Journeys, Big Delights
From bugs to butts, tokyo's less visited museums have something for everyone
627: Harmonize This
Shinjuku’s Aikido World Headquarters is a magnet for martial arts enthusiasts from around the globe
626: The Emperor and I
Former Newsweek bureau chief Bernard Krisher recalls how he got the scoop of a lifetime
625: Fair Game
The Tokyo International Anime Fair returns, with global interest in Japanese animation at an all-time high
624: Dark Matter
Suffering ignorance and discrimination, Japan’s black community struggles to retain its pride
623: Revenge of the Nerds
The geeks come out to play in Akihabara, and they’re not ashamed anymore
622: An Ofer you can’t refuse
A Tokyo-based entrepreneur says his South Pacific dream is a win-win adventure for everyone
621: We’d be nowhere without the subway system we love to hate620: The Boys and Girls of Winter
Rocked by scandals and looking to overcome an abysmal showing in Salt Lake City, Japan’s winter Olympians take on the world in Turin
619: The view from the Hills
Minoru Mori defends the Omotesando Hills development and reveals big plans for Tokyo
618: Think of the Children
Japan’s prejudiced legal system encourages desperate parents to abduct their own kids
617: We ♥ Tokyo
From the quirky to the cultural, explore more of Japan’s eclectic delights in 2006, because only here can you…
616: The Inner Mongolian
As Asashoryu fights to extend his record-breaking winning streak, Metropolis asks the yokozuna about babies, Bulgarians and Ulaanbaatar
614-615: Create a new you in 2006 by learning a traditional Japanese craft613: Get the Message
As companies vie ruthlessly for our attention, Tokyo is consumed by innovations in advertising
612: Mad Dash
The Tale of Snow White and the Master Shafter: A day with the Samurai Hash House Harriers
611: Geisha Gazing
Rob Marshall and his pan-Asian stars put the casting controversy behind them to lift the lid on the world of old Kyoto
610: Life through a Lens
Whether in a war zone or on a rugby pitch, 29-year-old photographer Chihiro Koga has a unique perspective
609: THE DICTATOR VANISHES
There may be method in the madness of Alberto Fujimori, formerly Tokyo’s most notorious foreign resident
608: True Crime
Convicted drug smuggler Nick Baker’s story is not what it first appeared
607: Fight Clubs
PRIDE and K-1 are muscle-packed, testosterone-fueled phenomena. But there’s more to sport than blood and brawn
606: Home Truths
Purchasing property here isn’t easy, but there’s never been a better time to try. One happy homeowner has these house-buying hints
605: Meeting of the Minds
Design tide descends on Tokyo for an explosive week of creative mischief
604: Lights, Camera...
Be part of the action at the 18th Tokyo International Film Festival
603: Kafu's City
The haunts of Tokyo's most famous scribe may have gone, but their spirits remain
602: Big city nights
Asia's most happening city is just across the water, So what are you waiting for? Find out what all the fuss is about
601: Lets Get Trivial!
Just what youve been waiting for: part two of "The Big 600"
things to know about Tokyo 600: The Big 600 Part 1
Facts and figures, tales and trivia, records and rumors. We present everything
you ever wanted to know (and some things you didnt) about the biggest
and greatest city in the world599: Show me the wayIf you have trouble learning Japanese, or lack the motivation to do so,
why not try Japanese Sign Language instead?598: Blueprint for Living A postmodern development in Chiba is beautiful to look at. But would you
want to live there?597: Inside the Box They spend their lives taking care of drunks, criminals and tourists. Who
on earth would want to work in a koban? 596: The Film Files Donald Richie, the worldwide authority on Japanese film, shares his movie
memories 595: Sea Worthy
Minoru Saitos seventh around-the-world voyage may have been his last,
but the 71-year-old isnt about to abandon the open water 594: In Search of the Rising Sun Sixty years after the end of World War II, Tokyo still has places that evoke
that tumultuous era593: Art is All AroundEnough with overcrowded galleries! Get a different kind of art attack in
the citys free public space592: What are you staring at? Wild Harajuku styles are no longer Japanese only. Seven international enthusiasts
explain what its all about591: River ChroniclesEvery July, Tokyo celebrates summer with dazzling fireworks along its most
famous river. But the Sumidas waters conceal a history of both joy and
tragedy590: A Kissa the Action Cheap, open all night, and offering loads of entertainment, Tokyos
manga kissa serve a restless generation 589: Halo HeroesThe Guardian Angels hit the streets of Tokyo to fight fear and complacency
588: Taste the Success
The celebrity-chef invasion gears up as British bad boy Gordon Ramsay opens
two restaurants at the new Conrad Tokyo 587: Keeping your cool
Metropolis offers some hot tips for enjoying Tokyo this summer586: A Tale of 2 trainers
Got a week? Or a couple? Two writers abandon their desks and learn to get fit quick
585: Room Service
Back by popular demand, our design specialists turn two Tokyo shoe-box apartments
into dream dwellings584: Half a world away
Brazilian-Japanese have a love-hate relationship with the land of their forefathers
583: Coming to a theater near you
Everything you ever wanted to know about the marketing of foreign movies in
Japan582: Little Miss Popular
So much more than just a doll, birthday-girl Blythe is everything to everyone
581: A Life Less Ordinary
A new exhibition gives modern relevance to the dramatic suicide of Japans
most controversial author 580: Resting in pieces
With no relatives around to pay for upkeep, dozens of graves in Aoyama Cemetery
are in danger of being relocated. But not if The Foreign Section Trust has its
way 579: Holiday of Hopes and Dreams
Volunteers Find it Hard to Balance Tourism and Charity on a Hybrid Holiday to
Tsunami-Hit Sri Lanka 578: The World in a Day
Been there, Waited in line, Got the T-shirt. Decide for yourself whether to
tackle Expo 2005 with our comprehensive (and honest) guide 577: The Road to Ruin
Residents of Shimokitazawa fight plans to build a highway through their town
576: Back on CourseAfter losing its groove in the economic downturn, Japanese golf is scrambling
back575: Idol Worship
The whiz kid behind 90s house icons Deee-lite is back with his first solo
disc in six years574: The Eagles Take Flight
The first foreign general manager of a Japanese baseball team, Marty Kuehnert
says hes confident he can make the new team fly 573: The Writes of Spring
Haiku offer the clearest understanding of the undying appeal of the cherry blossoms
572: Seekers of Supreme Truths
Ten years after the gas attacks, Japan struggles with old memories and new religions
571: Spring Forward!
Update your wardrobe with the top trends from the Spring/Summer 2005 collections570: Memoirs of a gaijin house
Clean up your room; you never know when photographer Yutaka Otsuka will turn
your living space into art 569: Meals on Wheels
Entrepreneurial Tokyoites storm the citys lunchbreaks with a new take
on street-food tradition 568: How to be Romantic:
A Valentines Day Dating Guide567: Understanding the Enemy
Japan faces an inscrutable opponent when it plays North Korea in the World Cup
qualifiers 566: Reaching for the Universe
The Miss Universe Japan pageant is about more than just looks: its shaping
women who are savvy, goal-oriented and able to express themselves 565: Inner Space
Come in from the cold with our guide to Tokyo's top winter entertainment spots564: Voices of Kobe
Ten years on, experiences of the great hanshin earthquake can help tokyoites
prepare for the worst563: The Russians are coming!!
Japans ages-old sport faces a foreign invasion561-562: Golden Year 2004
2004 was record breaking, both on and off the sports field. Metropolis recalls
the years best, worst, and most bizarre 560: Chef du jour
With an empire that spans the globe and a talent for bringing diners to their
knees, Alain Ducasse is the undisputed king of the culinary world. Now Tokyo
gets a taste of his success 559: The Jingle Hop has begun...
As the countdown to the holidays continues, Metropolis offers a look at both
cool and traditional options for adding a Japanese flavor to your holiday shopping
558: Final conflict
Fifty years after his celluloid birth, Godzilla takes one last stroll through
Tokyo. But is this really the end of the iconic green monster? 557: Perfect getaways
From cross-country skiing to traditional culture, winter in Japan offers a wealth
of reasons to venture outside the capital city 556: Rock of ages
Elvis schoolmate, former Yankees shortstop, protegé of mafia don Joe
Colomborocker Jimmy Angels colorful life shows no signs letting
up 555: Art explosion
Japans largest art event, Design Festa, marks its tenth anniversary 554: The bait and the catch
An ex-sushi chef lives in hiding, while dishing out details of the private life
of his onetime boss, North Koreas Kim Jong Il 553: Watercolors
The horror writer of Ringu fame paints the tale of a riveting performance by
a Tokyo theatrical troupe 552: Well read
Japan takes center stage as Metropolis rounds up recent fiction set in the Land
of the Rising Sun 551: Reality check
Hardcore punk rocker turned Zen master Brad Warner leads a journey of self-discovery
550: Life lessons
From permanent residency to private schooling, our expert panel tells you how
to make the most of out of living in Tokyo 549: Journey Into Imagination
Explore the creative minds of contemporary designers with a guided tour of Tokyos
upcoming design extravaganzas 548: State of play
Japans top video-game makers try to dig themselves out of a slump with
new titles debuting at this weekends Tokyo Game Show 547: Let the games beginagain
Theres no shortage of options for pro sports fans when it comes to taking
in a contest in Japan 546: Fish stories
A Harvard academic and anthropologist casts his net around Tsukiji, the
fish market at the center of the world. 545: Flash back
Tokyo designers look to the past for this season's fashion trends 544: Unsung heroes
In a profit-driven economy dominated by mechanization, mass production and cheap
foreign labor, a handful of Kyoto artisans keep the traditional art of craftsmanship
alive 543: Law and order
Tougher cops, late-night curfews and surveillance cameras. Governor Shintaro
Ishihara is spearheading an unprecedented stand against crime in the city of
Tokyo. Is it all too much or not enough? 542: Eyes on the prize
From the pool to the track, Japan's Olympic athletes set their sights on Athens
glory 541: Knight errant
When Narita immigration officers took custody of Bobby Fischer on July 13, the
chess champion felt betrayed by the country that had granted him sanctuary.
Now the former grandmaster and his supporters ready his last gambit 540: War and remembrance
Tim Hornyak revisits Japan's WWII legacy through the exalted and execrated grounds
of Yasukuni Shrine. 539: Out and about
Whatever youre looking for in a summer getaway, youll find it in
the Tokyo area and beyond. Heather Lew gets the scoop on the hottest ways to
chill out. 538: Snail's pace
Once a country that defined fast-forward, Japan is learning how
to take its time. Steve Trautlein catches up with the Slow Life movement. 537: Role models
Japanese actors are stepping into the spotlight overseas thanks to some award-winning
performances and a raft of samurai-inspired flicks. Chris Betros profiles the
top talent. 536: Sonic stories
Summer Sonic creator Naoki Shimizu says Japan's rock festival calendar may have
reached the breaking point. 535: Feeling festive
From fireworks to dance contests, Tokyo is gearing up for another summer of
matsuri mania. Metropolis previews the best of the bunch. 534: Field of dreams
Hideki Matsui made his name in the ballpark, but the Major Leaguer hopes to
be remembered as much for his heart as his home runs. Sachie Kanda visits him
in New York. 533: Depth charge
From the underwater realms of Okinawa to the green seas off Izu, spectacular
diving is closer than you think. Carlo Niederberger jumps in. 532: Screen dreams
Undaunted by miniscule budgets and a serious lack of limelight, Tokyos
foreign filmmakers pursue their craft. Michael J. Miller talks to the people
behind the cameras. 531: Spirited away
Jumpei Yasuda was abducted at gunpoint and held captive by a band of Iraqi mujahideen.
So why cant he wait to get back to Baghdad? Tama Miyake Lung hears his
story. 530: Wonder Bars
Tokyos theme bars serve up food, cocktailsand some totally unexpected
entertainment. Metropolis goes in search of the citys wildest drinking
dens. 529: In the loop
A dedicated group of foreign and Japanese artists are filming what they hope
will be Japan's first sitcom. Chris Betros visits the set. 528: Down towns
In the shadow of glittering skyscrapers and trendy mini-cities, Tokyos
derelict neighborhoods survive unchanged. Stephen Mansfield takes a walk on
the wilder side. 527: Ask Mr. Movie Man
Faced with a bewildering plethora of new movie releases this Golden Week, self-indulgent
Metropolis film critic Don Morton interviews himself. 526: Directors Cut
With a hit film inspired by her observations of Tokyo, Sofia Coppola has emerged
as a gifted storyteller who fuses trendsetting style and quiet resolve. Tama
Miyake Lung catches up with the Oscar winner on a recent visit. 525: Room service
Armed with ¥5,000 per room, our interior stylists make over three expatriate
pads using a playful dose of discount decor. 524: Uninventing the wheel
While other inventors dream of high-tech glory and patent riches, Kenji Kawakami
straps toilet paper to his head and hankies to the seat of his pants. Tim Hornyak
meets the Chindogu master. 523: Fresh talent
A handful of hot young chefs are raising the bar for traditional Japanese cuisine.
Ai Uchida learns their recipes for success. 522: Full Steam Ahead
The area's newest railway, the Minatomirai line, puts the varied charms of Yokohama
within easy reach. Steve Trautlein goes for a ride. 521: Fields of dreams
Just in time for spring and summer, Japan's sports scene gets set to sizzle.
Fred Varcoe keeps his eye on the ball. 520: Out of Eire
One-hundred years after his death, Lafcadio Hearn remains a favorite in his
adopted country of Japan. Steve Trautlein goes in search of the writer's Irish
connections. 519: Pop star
With its anime, manga, music and film all the rage overseas, Japan is entering
an age of unprecedented hipness. Tony McNicol investigates the staying power
of "Japanese cool." 518: Food fright
With mad cow and avian flu adding to the list of threats to Japan's food safety,
Tama Miyake Lung looks at how the country is coping and provides tips on how
to protect yourself. 517: Curtain call
Events editor Dan Grunebaum reflects on the past and future of Tokyo's performing
arts scene, and provides a sneak preview of the year ahead. 516: Second coming
Despite being dumped by the team nine years ago, Bobby Valentine is back in
Japan to manage the floundering Chiba Lotte Marines. Rob Smaal meets this season's
most anticipated arrival. 515: Room at the top
A new wave of luxury hotels is shaking up the industry in Tokyo like never before.
Can they all survive? Chris Betros checks in. 514: Building up
Tokyo's chaotic sprawl serves as the breeding ground for playful and cutting-edge
building design. Stephen Mansfield tours the city's architectural highlights.
513: Pick of the litter
She's cute, she's a commercial powerhouse and she's coming up on her 30th birthday.
Ken Belson and Brian Bremner let the story of Japan's favorite cat out of the
bag. 512: Beating the blues
Feeling depressed or in trouble? Tokyo has plenty of support groups that are
just a phone call or mouse click away. Chris Betros provides a few pointers.
511: A world apart
For many foreign parents in Tokyo, providing their children with a fulfilling
education is beyond reach. Steve Trautlein reports. 509/10: Up where we belong
As the skiing and snowboarding season comes into full swing, a handful of pros
provide tips on where to travel this winter. Carlo Niederberger reports. 508: Call of the wild
Jeff Hammond talks to Tokyo-based photographer Beezer about his new book, Wild
Dayz, and the legendary music scene it portrays. 507: Santa's secret weapon
With all the craziness before the holidays and the rush to jump on the plane,
finding the perfect gift can be more hassle than heartwarming. Hanna Kite brings
the fun back with a shopping guide sure to please everyone on your list. 506: Fashion by numbers
Tama Miyake Lung sums up the top trends from the Spring/Summer 2004 Tokyo collections.
505: Sex education
After decades spent believing that HIV and AIDS are other countries' problems,
Japan could be in for a disturbing lesson. Stephen Cotterill reports. 504: Man about town
Stephen Mansfield goes on a sentimental journey with eminent author and celebrated
Tokyo chronicler Donald Richie. 503: Bowled over
Bowling has been in Japan since the Edo period, and it looks like it's here
to stay-even if the lights go out. Michael J. Miller gets in the game at Tokyo's
top lanes. 502: Trial and error
Josh Noblestone takes a closer look at the case of drug-smuggling suspect Nick
Baker and what it reveals about Japan's criminal justice system. 501: Close encounters
The skies above Japan are alive with extraterrestrial activity, according to
the nations foremost UFO research group and its fearless leader. Matt
Wilce examines the evidence. 500: Coming of age
As Metropolis celebrates its 500th issue, we look at where we've been, and where
we're going, through the eyes of Tokyo's international community. 499: Welcome happiness
The new Mori Art Museum hopes to lead Roppongi's cultural evolution. John McGee
sees what's up. 498: Just passing through
There's always someone interesting to catch up with at the Tokyo International
Film Festival, says veteran attendee Chris Betros. 497: Pick six
From October 9-13, Tokyo Designers Block will transform the streets of Aoyama
and Omotesando into a grown-ups playground. Steve Trautlein talks with
a half dozen of the events top talents. 496: The name game
Arnold Schwarzenegger's not the only one hoping to trade celebrity for a taste
of political power. Chris Betros looks at Japan's lawmakers and finds everyone
from singers to wrestlers filling the ranks. 495: Bliss list
Metropolis hits the massage table for a rundown on the city's best spas. 494: On alert
Two years after the September 11 attacks, experts say Japan is more vulnerable
than ever to the threat of terrorism. Steve Trautlein reports. 493: Playing the field
Japan's athletes are gearing up for an autumn of nonstop sports action. Fred
Varcoe previews all the fun. 492: From the hip
Japan's youth are giving hip-hop music, dance and fashion a makeover. Michael
J. Miller raps with the devotees of "black style." 491: Modern marvel
With a bold new design for the Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments along Omotesando,
award-winning architect Tadao Ando is raising the stakes on an already remarkable
career. Tama Miyake Lung meets the self-made maestro. 490: Show time
Nearly one year into a government-run licensing program, Tokyo's street performers
are finally getting some respect. Mick Corliss hears more from some of the charismatic
characters. 489: Time zone
Old and new exist side by side in Tokyo's Tsukishima-Harumi area. Chris Betros
goes for a tour. 488: Great escapes
From pristine beaches and picturesque temples to mountain resorts and the magic
of Hollywood, Matt Wilce compiles our ten favorite spots for a quick getaway.
487: Season tickets
Looking for a fun way to beat the heat? Metropolis gets the rundown on the best
thrills and chills to keep you entertained all summer long. 486: Life at the top
Yuichiro Miura survived 70 years, several potentially fatal ski runs, and five
days in the Death Zone before becoming the oldest person to conquer Mount Everest.
Tama Miyake Lung meets the new record holder and the son who shared in his thrilling
ascent.485: Seeing green
As temperatures in Tokyo rise, city officials look skyward to beat the heat.
Steve Trautlein tours the city's rooftop gardens.484: Calling the tunes?
Piano icon Herbie Hancock looks to reinvent jazz with Tokyo Jazz 2003, but is
adding a turntablist to his band going to do the trick? Music editor Dan Grunebaum
reports.483: Power struggle
After a string of safety scandals, Tokyo's major energy supplier may not have
enough juice to meet demand this summer. Matt Wilce reports on the very likely
possibility of the city's first blackout in 16 years.482: Flavor of the month
Boston-based big shot Todd English is the latest celebrity chef to spice up
the Tokyo dining scene. Georgia Jacobs gets the scoop. 481: The new wave
As another scorching summer approaches, more and more Japanese are discovering
the joys of the beach, and a fair few are finding sporting success on the sand.
Tama Miyake heads for the shore.480: Never-ending stories
The big onslaught of summer movies begins with lots of sequels and remakes.
Chris Betros looks at the lineup. 479: Revival of the fittest
Ginza is under fire from swish new developments, but Japan's sentimental shopping
strip is fighting back and winning some unlikely fans. Martin Webb reports.
478: The sky's the limit
The Moris are changing the face of Tokyo like never before. Chris Betros meets
the man on top, CEO and President Minoru Mori. 477: Park place
With spring in full swing, there's no better time to unwind in the city's lush
sanctuaries. David Chester tells you where to park it. 476: Fun in the sun
As the mercury rises, Japan's sportsmen and women gear up for a season of thrills.
Fred Varcoe previews all the action. 475: The elements of style
When the mercury drops this fall and winter fashion hits a high note, if the
Fall/Winter 2003-2004 Tokyo collections are anything to go by. Georgia Jacobs
reports. 474: The hills are alive
Tokyo is an ailing city about to get a new cultural and entertainment heart:
Roppongi Hills. Chris Betros goes for a visit. 473: Big bang theory
After lying dormant for 300 years, Mount Fuji has recently rumbled to life,
and Tokyo is bracing for the worst. Steve Trautlein reports.472: Recipe for success
In the City of the Saturated Restaurant Industry, launching 102 new establishments
is a lot to swallow. But if anyone can pull it off, its Americas
most famous gastronome, Wolfgang Puck. Georgia Jacobs gets the dish on his Japan
expansion. 471: From tigers to towers A gleaming new city is springing up at Shiodome, one of many transforming
the Tokyo landscape. Chris Betros joins the crowds. 470: Head over heels
At Shinjukus Yoshinkan Hombu Dojo, April is the time for foreigners and
Japanese police officers to train side-by-side, as Steve Trautlein learns from
the masters. 469: Tokyo story
Its been 400 years since Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa made Edo his capital.
As Tokyo gets ready to celebrate four centuries as Japans premier city
on March 24, Matt Wilce takes a look at the metropolis less familiar history.468:Mass immigration
All foreign residents in Tokyo and nine prefectures now have to troop off to
a new immigration office in Shinagawa for that vital stamp in the passport.
Chris Betros joins the crowds. 467: In the raw
With his charity restaurant receiving rave reviews and his acclaimed no-holds-barred
documentary launching in Japan, things are looking up for Jamie Oliver. But,
the Naked Chef tells Georgia Jacobs, reality sometimes bites. 466: Reaching for the stars
The quest for space will continue despite the Columbia tragedy, and Japan will
play its part, Chris Betros reports.465: Devil may care
Governor Shintaro Ishihara relishes his role as the thorn in the side of Japanese
bureaucracy. But the most powerful man in Tokyo is also one of the few people
getting things done in the capital, he tells Tama Miyake.464: Love in the fast lane
Romance is big business in Japan, as matchmaking and speed dating agencies vie
to help you find your soulmate. Chris Betros reports.463: Eastward bound
As Japan's homegrown talent struggle to launch themselves to stardom in the
West, many of Hollywood's biggest names, ironically, have headed east to kick-start
their careers. 462: Small talk
With a healthy sense of play, Tokyo offers youngsters all the fun they can handle.
Steve Trautlein joins in.461: All washed upWith the mercury dropping there's no better time to get up to your neck
in hot water, and have a little fun in the process. Matt Wilce brings you a
roundup of nearby onsen with more.460: Going BAPE
With BAPE hotel wishes, BAPE Café New York dreams, and a new London boutique
finally a reality, A Bathing Ape creator Nigo is the next self-appointed fashion
ambassador for trendy Tokyoites. But is the rest of the planet ready for this
simian-inspired lifestyle? Roland Kelts gets the answer from the man himself.459: China Town
Thirty years after the former adversaries joined hands, China and Japan aren't
exactly the model of diplomatic relations. But, as Tama Miyake discovers, that
hasn't stopped Tokyo trendsetters from making the Middle Kingdom all the rage.
457/8: Happy holidays
Most of Tokyo shuts down for New Year'sbut not all of it456: Voluntary Movement
Despite a legacy of government indifference and a lack of social recognition,
Japan's volunteers are determined to carry out their good works455: The busy person's guide to holiday
shopping
Wrapping things up at the office before the end of the year doesn't leave much
time for wrapping up presents, let alone shopping for them454: Ahead of the curve
In a world where design is the new capital, the currency through which brands
and products are bought and sold, Marc Newson is a captain of the industry453: Click draw
Following Toy Story, Monsters, Inc., and now Waking Life, are Japanese animators
jumping on the computer graphics bandwagon?452: Warm front
Tama Miyake tracks the hottest trends from the Spring/Summer 2003 Tokyo Collection451: Great taste
Former sumo champ Akebono brings his fighting spirit and an appetite for life
to the restaurant business at the newly opened ZUNA450: Seniority rules
With wads of cash in the bank, the nation's elderly are quickly becoming the
darlings of savvy manufacturers449: A different tune
Music is universal, but can expat musicians carve a niche out of the world's
second largest market?448: To die for
Cardboard coffins, online mourning, space burials and wearable remains447: A business of her ownWith continuing education, self-invention and sheer will, the country's
female population is joining the ranks of Japan Inc 446:Great IdéeTeruo Kurosaki wants to change the world through design445: Open house
A traditional Japanese farmhouse complete with thatched roof and hearth, Chiiori
in the Iya Valley offers adventurers the opportunity to relive the best of old
Japan444: In a T.I.F.F.
The 15th Tokyo International Film Festival celebrates Asian cinema with a little
bit of help from Hollywood heavyweights. 443: All grown upWestern readers will be seeing a new face to manga soon, and it's got nothing
to do with Pokemon or Yu-Gi-Oh. 442: Saved by the bell
With the suicide toll topping 30,000 since 1998, can hotline pioneer Inochi
no Denwa, answer Japan's cry for help? 441: Ready to rumbleJapan's X League American football players on the road to the Rice Bowl440: Feel the rhythm
Asakusa's Samba Carnival is proof positive of Japan's status as the Asian hotbed
of Brazilian culture 439: Interior angle
The stars du jour of the foodie crowd are no longer celeb chefs but the country's
avant-garde designers438: Alternate view
Tokyo's independent cinemas offer a ticket out of the mainstream437: Bean counting
The last thing caffeine-addicted Tokyoites need is another fancy cup of joe
436: Wild things
August is the time when friends flee for Bali, Blighty and Buenos Aires, and
the city empties for O-bon, but that's no reason to be bored435: Ties that bind
Thanks to increased government involvement and greater public exposure, child
abuse is gradually emerging from the shadows 434: Stars in your eyes
You know when summer has arrived in Japan. Baseball bats and yukata come out
of storage, tea and noodles are served cold, cicadas' songs pierce the air and
fireworks fill the night sky 433: Picture thisDon Morton, the guy who goes to all the movies so you don't have to, offers
guidance for the time you'll spend this summer in dark rooms watching moving
images on walls432: The shore thing
Three hours south lies a village by the sea where the sands of time slow to
a trickle, breeze blows off the Pacific, and turquoise waters lap at its pristine
beaches and hidden coves431: Fast food
On July 4, the world's fastest eaters descend on Coney Island, New York, to
conquer a mountain of hot dogs in the 87th annual Nathan's contest430: Making music
Drawing 50,000 fans and over 70 world-class acts, The Fuji Rock Festival is
Japan's premier sound extravaganza429: Capital Assets
Tokyo is a treasure trove of art, culture and a fair share of kitsch428: The house of Hanae
As the investor-owned pret-a-porter line that bears her name goes bust, Japan's
couture pioneer pushes ahead427: The grand stand
Overshadowed by its mega-neighbor, the new Saitama City is set to prove it's
more than a sleepy industrial backwater426: Sugamo stories
With little more than pencils and paper, five prolific inmates documented life
behind bars with such infamous war criminals as WWII premier Hideki Tojo425: Made in Japan
A charmed existence by many standards, expatriate life in Tokyo, despite wars,
earthquakes and occupation, has paved the road to success for many a foreigner424: The game of life
Hidetoshi Nakata has been cheered and jeered as the face of Japanese soccer
423: In the fleshSummer sumo tournament at Ryogoku in May422: Fashion FrenzyThe joshikosei, or teen fashionistas, are some of the most voracious consumers
on the planet 421: This way up
On the doorstep of fashion enclave Daikanyama, Nakameguro has been steadily
making its way from downtown district to divine destination 420: The big kick
The first World Cup of the 21st century promises to be a ball of fire419: Win win situationWith the winter season safely behind it, Japan is bracing itself for potentially
the biggest sporting year in history418: Laughing matters
Tokyo's comedians want to make Japan a funnier place417: RobotopsSpearheading the robot evolution, Japan continues to wow the world with
its clever cast of droids416: Crime scene
Mark Schreiber dishes the dirt on Japanese felons415: Culture class
Tokyo's international schools dole out lessons on life in Japan414: Club scene
Our guide to where to go to get tight and toned in Tokyo 413: Matter of PRIDE
Ultimate fighters pull out all the punches for Pride412: Spy games
Unfaithful spouses and philandering beaus beware of the beautiful barfly411: A winter's tale
Japan's all star cast of Olympians are set to storm Salt Lake City410: Close quarters
Venturing into Tokyo's private spaces409: In the DARC
Turning the spotlight on Japan's cutting-cutting edge rehab program408: Take the plunge
You don't have to go far outside the city limits before you hit prime onsen
territory. 407: Bringing up the baby
The future looks bright for the newest member of the royal family406: You gotta have Seoul
Korea Reconsidered405: Deep impact
Meet Japan's most influential people in 2001 404:
12 fun ways to spend your post christmas break403: Martha Stewart
exclusive
America's domestic diva descends on Japan402:
All they want for Christmas399:
To beef or not to beef
One mad cow and Japan's beef industry is bust.
398: In touch with tradition
an interview with 3 artisans who bring the best of the past to present-day Tokyo
397: Captain cooks
Out of the kitchen - Tokyo's rising executive chefs
396: Ghost town
Tokyo's horrible history
395: Generation Next
The world-first launch of NTT DoCoMos third generation mobile phone network
represents a quantum leap into mobile cyberspace. Stuart Braun goes online.
394:
Sister act
Celeb sisters Kyoko and Mika Kano have taken Japan by storm, but can they win
over the West? Chris Betros and Maki Nibayashi spend an evening with the divine
duo. 393:
Reel time
Matt Wilce gets a close-up of the Tokyo International Film Festival's hottest
tickets. 392:
Lap it up
Michael Schumacher is champion again, but the unpredictable Suzuka circuit is
still set to offer up a surprise-packed Japan Grand Prix on October 14. Stuart
Braun goes trackside.391:
Everything old is new
You might think Azabu Juban is all swanky dining and dancing 'till dawn.....390:
Cooking the books
Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisas in town with his new book in hand.....389:
Up from the underground
Japan's literary superstar Haruki Murakami is home for the duration 388:
First wave
John McGee dives into Japan's art extravaganza387:
Water world
Matt Wilce explores Tokyo DisneySea386:
Open house
Many people are sleeping on the streets of Tokyo385:
A moveable feast
Some of the city's best yatai fare384:
Hair
A look at Tokyo's salon industry383:
Summer in the city
20 ways to make August a little more bearable382:
Tokyo Tomorrow
Stuart Braun tracks the future of the metropolis381:
From zero to hero
81-year-old Zero fighter Sadamu Komachi looks back380:
Island escapade
Journey to Odaiba379:
Open-air fare
Tokyo's alfresco dining spots378:
Reel story
Reel in the summer's hottest movies377:
Sonic relief
Gear up for the summer's hottest music festivals376:
All at sea
No shortage of fun in the sun on the beach375:
Your cup of tea
Tea time in Tokyo374:
No time to waste
Tokyo's mounting problems with garbage373:
Freetown
Tokyo's stylish suburb, Jiyugaoka372:
Broken record
Tokyo's ecclectic array of record stores371:
Bottoms up
Tokyo's finest martini bars370:
Admit one
Regulations for foreigners wanting to live and work on Japan369:
After a fashion
Spring trends from the catwalks to the streets368:
Bandwidth wagon
Japan's move towards DSL367:
Just for sports
How to play ball this summer366:
Life's a hitch
Helpful hints for hitch hiking in Japan365:
Altered state
Try Tokyo's tailors on for size364:
The Fringe Club
Shinjuku's infamous Golden Gai bar district363:
Take two Tomatos
Design gurus Michael Horsham and Steve Baker362:
Stage left
Innovative and intimate shogekijo (little theaters)361:
The lowdown on TC
Everything you ever wanted to know about TC, but were afraid to ask360:
A reversal of fortune
Tokyo's home of racing, Fuchu Racecourse359:
Funny Valentine
How to do Valentine's Day in Japan358:
Two-faced
Heartthrob Katsunori Takahashi357:
Read all about it
Amazon.com comes to Japan356:
Daikanyama
Central Tokyo's hippest hood355:
Wash out
Heaven Sento354:
Means to an end
Some good ideas to inspire you352/3:
Last LaughTC's rosey re-cap of the yearSigns of the
times
Horoscopes for 2001351: It's a wrapTC's holiday gift tips350:
Cable ready
Cable and satellite broadcasting renaissance

Tokyo may be a
city better known for its industry than its arts. There are
no stunning antiquities as in Rome or the fantastic modern
vistas of Manhattan. But what Tokyo does offerto those
with the time, desire and Passnet cards to find themis
a burgeoning landscape of public art oases. Diffused throughout
the city, these spots are welcome moments of contemporary
contemplation by some of the most well-known and celebrated
artists of Japan and the world.

Beyond a few recognizable symbols like Shibuyas Hachiko
or Uenos statue of Saigo Takamori, it has only been
in the past 15 years that the phrase public art
has come into the katakana lexicon of culturally minded Tokyoites.
Beginning in the early 1990s several public art ventures were
conceived and realized, but unlike cities throughout the United
States and Europe, Tokyos government provides no incentives
or guidelines for this work, and all the projects have been
brought about by the philanthropic foresight of corporations
and developers seeking to give a sophisticated presence to
their buildings and brands.

Since the bursting of the bubble economy many projects have
been reduced in size, but conversely the total number has
increased throughout Tokyo and the rest of Japan. Several
exciting projects continue to emerge, such as those at Kawasaki
Muza or in the Shiodome Carretta building completed in the
past few years.

The result of these smaller projects is that public art in
Tokyo, like the city itself, is spread over considerable distance.
There are a few areas of high concentration, but even more
that offer just one or two pieces to enjoy. Seeking them all
out can be a rewarding adventure for the willing, but for
those just seeking some of the best, Metropolis offers its
guide to Tokyos public art hot spots.

Marunouchi
Aside from being a significant piece of architecture in its
own right, the Tokyo International Forum houses some great
pieces of art both inside and out of its glass and steel superstructure.

In the courtyard between the two buildings, calming stone
pieces offer Zen-like reflection in contrast to the ultra-sleek
contemporary edges of the building. The more noticeable piece
is the huge marble mass Ishinki by sculptor Kan Yasuda. Finding
the second requires a bit more patience as British artist
Richard Longs Hemisphere Circle frequently serves as
a de facto bench for work-weary salarymen and office ladies.

Richard Long,
Hemisphere Circle, 1996

Inside the buildings,
art is everywhere. A quick tour revealsdepending on
which corners you covernumerous works by Isamu Noguchi,
Elsworth Kelly and Richard Deacon, among others. Many of the
works here are accessible to the public, but a few are hidden
away in the spaces many conference rooms or other areas
frequently in use.

Some information about the collection can be found on the
forums website (www.t-i-forum.co.jp/English) and, for
those committed to finding the whole collection, a book entitled
Boat of Diversity is available at the Forum Art Shop.

Taro
Okamoto, Young Clock Tower
Andrew Conti

Yurakucho
To the north of the Imperial Palace, in an area famed for
it bookshops, is one of a few sculptures scattered around
Tokyo by Japans great artist provocateur, Taro Okamoto.
The artist donated the thorny, stalk-like Young Clock Tower
to the city in the early 70s. Renovated in the late
90s, the piece proudly displays the time in a park a
short walk from Jimbocho station. It is already in need of
another paint joband protection from the crowsbut
it maintains the warped appendages and superbly brilliant
colors for which Okamoto is famous.

Shinagawa
Although the bulk of Obayashi Corps large art collectionlocated
in building B of the massive Intercity complex in Shinagawais
kept within the confines of its spacious offices and out of
public view, a few gems are accessible in the lobby. Two pieces
in particular stand out in the plain, white-walled space.
The first is the glass plates of Yayoi Kusamas Infinity
Net (1998) that creates a glowing bluish wall of the artists
well-known motif. Directly to the right is a large hand-written
essay by architectural icon Rem Koolhass. Appropriately labeled
Bigness, it is an enormous black board covered
with Koolhass manifesto-esque musings on the impact
of bigness in contemporary architecture.

Shinjuku
The most notable thing on the open streets to the west of
Shinjuku station is the striking architecture. The enormous
office buildings offer some of the most interesting and, of
course, largest facades in the city. Many buildings have at
least a few token pieces of modernist or contemporary work
hanging inside or standing around their grounds, but two stand
out.

The first is the Metropolitan Government Building. Housed
in the two main buildings and surrounding park are over 35
paintings and sculptures. Predominantly featuring works by
Japanese artists, the grounds outside the MGB offer several
fun and tactile works that make relaxing spots to sit and
enjoy a bento. Inside, follow the map to the collections
many highlights, including Jiro Takamatsus Hishou (Soaring)
and Isamu Noguchis In Silence Walking.

Robert
Indiana, Love, Shinjuku
I-Land, 1993
Andrew Conti

The true gem of
Nishi-Shinjuku for significant international works is definitely
Shinjuku I-Land. With a collection curated by Daikanyamas
Nanjo and Associates, this urban megaplex features fantastic
sculptures like Roy Lichtensteins Tokyo Brushstroke
I & II and Sol Lewitts Wall Drawing #772. Other
international favorites like Robert Indianas LOVE sculpture
stand prominently at the main entrance. In addition, the spiraling
walkways and elegant waterworks among I-Land Towers
many restaurants and shopsincluding the patio and aptly
named Aquawalkare fun spaces in which to explore or
while away an afternoon. Maps (in Japanese) to the artwork
in both buildings are available at their respective information
desks.

Louis
Bourgeois, Maman, 2003
Courtesy of Mori Art Museum

Roppongi
In little more than a year, the Mori Art Museum has made itself
the premier contemporary art institution of Tokyo. But outside
of the museum the grounds of the Roppongi Hills mini-city
are some of the most pleasantly designed spaces in the city.

The cornerstone of the artwork here is Louis Bourgeoiss
gigantic spider creature known as Maman. This work has been
exhibited in London and New York, and now one of its six iterations
makes its permanent nesting place in Roppongi as a symbol
of Roppongi Hills role in the web of Tokyo.
Other works of note include Andrea Branzis arch, which
is a square white bench that sits inside a minimalist archway,
and Karim Rashids sKape, a curved purple form evoking
a landscape that stylishly wraps in upon itself. Other works
are sporadically placed throughout the grounds including a
number of artist-designed benches for resting between the
shopping and entertainment offerings of the mini-city. A map
is available online and at information desks.

Pietro
Kobalski, Electric Sunflower
Andrew Conti

Daikanyama
and Naka-Meguro
Beginning with the green Electric Sunflower by Pietro Kobalski
that marks the center of Tokyos hippest neighborhood,
the Daikanyama Address buildings offers a few spots for uncovering
some fantastic public art. Works like the glowing benches,
Jauma Prensas Shichifukujin (the seven deities of luck)
and the geometric lighting designs of Takuro Osaka pepper
the area like illuminated pauses among the pulse of cafes
and shopping.

One stop away on the Tokyu Toyoko Line (or a short stroll
down the hill) is Naka-Meguro Gate Town; a station front high-rise
office building that includes a number of stores and restaurants
on its lower levels. Lebanese artist Nadim Karam covers these
floors with fanciful cut metal figures and titles like Dancing
Ninjas and Carnivals. These colorful works bring a splash
of humor and playfulness to the typically modern layout of
the urban towers. The space is best viewed in the evening
when two works by French artist Jean-Francois Brun, Floating
Clouds and Hundred Moons Pond, use light to radiate an artificial
but calming sense of serenity.

Milan
Fukuda and Gretchen Bender, Amida-Kuji
Andrew Conti

Tameike-Sanno
Almost overlookable in the morning and evening rushes to work,
the main exit of Tameike-Sanno station (exit 8) brings commuters
face to face with the enormous wall painting Amida-Kuji. This
heartening work was conceived and created by Japanese artist
Milan Fukuda and American counterpart Gretchen Bender. The
general theme of friendship and goodwill between the two countries
of its creatorsat the station closest to the US embassyis
quickly ascertained from the simple game-based design (amida-kuji
is a popular childrens game) that balances images of
both Japanese and American popular culture. Godzilla faces
a cartoon mouse, the New York skyline mirrors Tokyos
and a slice of apple pie is juxtaposed with an onigiri.

Yokohama
There are a number of works, impressive and playful, scattered
throughout Yokohamas waterfront Minato Mirai area (Tokyu
Toyoko line/Minato Mirai line). Particularly compelling is
Marina Karellas A place beyond dawn, a brass-winged
sculpture of draped white cloth that speaks of mythic symbolism,
and Lika Mutals pair of massive circle-inscribed stone
works, Eye on the City and Eye on the Seaboth at the
Queens Square shopping complex. On a more playful note, the
colorful pipes of N. Skreko Martins STAR GATE and the
Technicolor benches of Tomoko Ushijimas Wedding are
alluringly tactile respites from the crowds.

Highlights from other buildings include Pacifico Yokohamas
stunning Constellation 94 Yokohama, a stained glass
vision of the night sky by Ikuo Hirayama that is located in
the main entrance lobby. Closer to Sakuragicho station (JR
Tokaido line), the interior of the Niseki Yokohama building
features works by a mix of international artists like Kan
Yasuda, Tadeusz Myslowski and Josep Maria Martin.

For a guide map in Japanese and English to the areas
many (occasionally difficult to locate) works, head to the
tourist information desk near Sakuragicho station.

Vito
Acconci, Bollard (Bench)
Andrew Conti

Tachikawa
A few minutes, walk from Tachikawa station (JR Nambu and Chuo
lines) is one of the largest public art projects in the Kanto
area. Envisioned and curated by Fram Kitagawa of Art Front
Gallery, Faret Tachikawa offers over 100 sculptures by a field
of artists from 36 countries. Pieces by such renowned international
names as Robert Rauschenberg, Claes Oldenburg and Anish Kapoor
sit along side dozens of established Japanese artists. Fareta
Japanese-ism combining the T of Tachikawa with the Italian
word fare, or createrequires a good afternoon
to appreciate all the works, and being next to the enormous
Showa Kinen Park, Faret is a prime summer destination for
art lovers. Maps are available at the police box at the station
and at the library.

Kamiooka
Slightly out of Yokohama, in Konan-ku, the front of Kamiooka
station (Keikyu line) was transformed in 1997 by a large public
art project into Yumeookaa mix of yume,
or dream, and Kamiooka. The area features works
by some of Japans hottest artists including Takashi
Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara. Works typical of both artists
are easily recognized amid the stations hustle and bustle,
along with equally enjoyable works by lesser-known artists
like South Koreas rising star Choi Jeong Hwa.