FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM....

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

The climb is located about 30 feet to the right of Remote Control and about 20 feet to the left of the boulder that you can crawl under to get to Crimpfest Wall.

The first pitch is a short 5.8+ warm up that starts up a flake that goes up and to the left, then on to slab for about 20 feet to the anchors.

The second pitch goes up and to the right of the first pitch anchors and then traverses back over the first pitch anchors. There is a difficult bulge to overcome followed by a very intimidating roof with another roof just above it.

Both pitches can be climbed as one with a 60m rope but you will need to [rappel] to the first pitch anchors to get off the climb.

Protection

The first pitch is 5 bolts plus anchors. The second pitch is 11 bolts plus anchors.

I really enjoyed this route. I'm sure it will soon become a classic up there along with Remote Control. It's still a little dirty, we cleaned it up a bit but not too much to take the fun out of discovering the beta yourself.

Excellent route! Mostly pretty straight forward climbing with one hard crux move at the lip of the roof. I would say that the crux is harder for tall people. You can get sort of a rest on the lip of the roof with a heel toe cam and a leg bar, but then you still have to squirm to stand-up.

Cool route. The roof is kind of funny. You get about 90% of the way through it and think you are in good shape, but the last 10% is a struggle. I used literally every part of my body on the last 10%. The climbing above the roof is very nice and has several minor cruxes as well.