Yeah I didn't really think about it at the time because I had been waiting so long to get the car on the road since rebuilding the rearend and rebuilding the engine. But the more I look around something wasn't right. I know the flange for the 8.8 they had to order in which was like $30 and im sure the trans yoke was about $50... so where did the rest of the price come in? This weekend I am gonna dig up the receipt if I still have it and look it all over.

Could only be the tubing, shaft ends, and labor. As for measuring, I've always put the car up where I can get under it comfortably (making sure the rear axle is fully loaded) then measure center to center on the u-joints with the trans yoke pulled out 3/4" from fully inserted. There are other ways to measure, so whatever you use, be sure to tell the shop exactly how you measured.

Could only be the tubing, shaft ends, and labor. As for measuring, I've always put the car up where I can get under it comfortably (making sure the rear axle is fully loaded) then measure center to center on the u-joints with the trans yoke pulled out 3/4" from fully inserted. There are other ways to measure, so whatever you use, be sure to tell the shop exactly how you measured.

Russ

Now when you say rear axle fully loaded do you mean like jack it up in the air and put jack stands under the rear end and place the car weight on it, or just while the vehicle is sitting on the rearend normally.

Place jack stands under the axle to simulate the vehicle sitting on the ground. One word of advice, if you have a driveshaft made, make sure you don't use a "truck" shop. They rarely get driveshafts balanced for use in a vehicle that runs over 50mph. But, that's just my opinion.

Now when you say rear axle fully loaded do you mean like jack it up in the air and put jack stands under the rear end and place the car weight on it, or just while the vehicle is sitting on the rearend normally.

Place jack stands under the axle to simulate the vehicle sitting on the ground. One word of advice, if you have a driveshaft made, make sure you don't use a "truck" shop. They rarely get driveshafts balanced for use in a vehicle that runs over 50mph. But, that's just my opinion.

If the Driveline shop has a good machine with a computer balancer they have the capability to do a good driveline even if its a "truck" shop. as with anything.. its only as good as the operator.

As with any machine.. every now and then the computer will throw out funny numbers for a balance. It's very important for the shop to check the calibration of the machine VERY often to catch anything weird.

When I need a drive shaft cut down I always look for one that has minimum or NO balance weights from the factory, then you have a better chance of getting a good balance

Very true. If the ends are in straight.. a "good" driveline guy can straighten the driveline. You just need to know what your doing with the heat. All the weights need to be knocked off and start over.

If you ever get a "newly' balanced shaft that has 2 or more weights next to each other that go around the shaft... I would ask them to double check it. That is a NO NO and I see it quite often.

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