Buick Park Avenue

Comments

I have seen different ways to remprogram a fob for my 99 park avenue on here. Before I try another, I was wondering if anyone had any luck by jumping pins 4&8 method.I have an old fob from a 2000 impala that has the same FCC ID# on the back of the one that currently works for my park avenue. Am I correct in assuming it will work for the park avenue also?Thanks,Mike

In the fuse block under the rear seat, #11 and #17 are both radio related.

If you know how to use a voltmeter/ohmmeter, the best thing is to pull the fuse and test for continuity with the tester.

Note that in that block, #16, 21, 23, 24 are spares. So you might be able to switch your fuses with a new one in the spare slot.

The second fuse block is under the passenger side dash. Take off the hush panel with a few screws under the dash. There are 4 spare fuses there BUT NONE of the fuses appear by the label to be radio related.

I don't see any that seem to be radio related under the hood in that fuse block.

I notice on page 3-31 of your owners manual it says, "If your battery loses power for anyreason, you must unlock the radio with the secret codebefore it will operate."

My son has a 2000 Park Ave as his first car. I was trying to get the cigarette lighter to work in case Santa brings him a GPS. I pulled the rear seat and the a lot of the fuses are missing. The spares are gone as well as all the cigarette lighters. Does anyone know what size fuse goes in slot numbers 8, 22, 26 and 27? I have the manual but I can't find it in there. Thanks.

The covers for the fuse blocks have a diagram and the word labels for each by number give the amp rating for each fuse. I looked on my 03 leSabre--related chassis. As far as the missing fuses, I believe that's common in mine. This body was related to the Avalon and Riviera, IIRC, as well as the STS, leSabre. There may have been common uses among those so the empties are there.

I checked the glove box manual for your car and the amps are not listed in there. If I recall there are cigar lights in the rear doors on those? But my lighter and aux outlet are in the dash and the fuses are under the hood for mine.

My car has 20 amp for the cigar lighter and the auxiliary power. Also, one or both of those have the ability to be plugged in adjacent by one notch which makes them stay on permanently rather than turning off with the key or the delayed power control. I.e., there are three plugs, and the fuse can be in A&B, or B&C.

I own an 98 Buick A Ultra. The mechanic I purchased it from told me that I could use Plus grade gasoline, but that using regular will cause the car to ping or knock. So I just listened to him and intermix both plus and premium grade gases.

okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.

have you tried the mas airflow sensor? Had the same problem with mine and that fixed it. The way to check it is to simply unplug it and start the car. It will instantly run better if that's whats wrong. It is located on the drivers side in the back of the engine. Good luck

1, The odd actions of some of the dash components makes me wonder about the grounding. On leSabres up to 99, there were ground buss connections bundled into the wiring under the plastic door sill and carpet at the front of the door opening next to the A-pillar. I believe they are on both sides. This corrodes for some people. It's covered with wrapping tape. Clean the connections, coat with dielectric or something to protect and reinstall.

Some people could hit that area with their heel and change the connection in the ground buss due to the corrosion. You might see if that affects it.

Are you in an area with lots of rain or snow so that moisture (slush with salt) gets dripped there as your feet come into the car over the years?

2. The weak power when it won't start that causes relays to not work sounds like connections at the battery or grounds under the hood area. The battery has double or multiple positive cables. Pull those apart and look at the lead spacer in between for corrosion. Those are available new for replacement. Also cut back into the copper cable and pull the plastic back tosee if the cable has been corroded by battery acid and is partly eaten up. Check the lower ends of the positive cable at the starter. You might want to remove ground wire from battery first to prevent arc overs if you remove and retighten connections.

3. The starter might not be making connection. Locate the starter housing under the front of the motor. Have someone tap on it with a hammer while you turn the key to crank, especially when the VATS system appears to not be allowing engine crank.

Does the security light flash on and off after you try the key 3 times and it fails to crank? That's the VATS system. When you insert key and turn to ON, there should be a short flash of the security light as the TDM reads the code resistance to match to the original the first time it was started at the factory. does the light stay on meaning a mismatch? Or does the light go off after turning the key until the third try to crank?

4. 1994 and 1995 models in leSabre have the most failures and anomalous problems due to the computers. If someone has one you can switch with yours, that would be good. I've read a lot of posts where people chased problems that would come and go giving all kinds of symptoms and codes at times. Then they find the computer replacement fixed it.

They are relatively cheap for replacement. I believe you transfer your chip from the old one to the new one. But you are getting other symptoms than just codes or poor running at times or dying. I think you have other problems or combinations, especially since the car has sat for a time.

The Park Avenue and leSabre were so similar they were combined into the same factory service manual for 1993 and I assume up to 1995 when they changed to the newer, Riviera/Aurora body and chassis derived automobile.

I have a 2002 Buick Park Avenue. Recently, it has started to make a humming noise that increases in pitch with an increase in road speed. It is noticeable at all speeds above 10MPH. I have used a laser thermometer on all of the hubs and there is no real difference in hub temperature after a long drive. The front hubs run a little hotter than the rear ones, but side-to-side, the temperature readings are consistent. I have tried the swerve test, with no difference in sound by swerving left or right. I have jacked up the car and shook all 4 of the wheels and found no noticeable play in any particular wheel. I actually magnetically attached a small video camera to each of the fenders and made videos of each of the tires in motion and there were no audible or visual differences in the videos. The car has 132,000 miles on it. I have had each of front wheel bearings replaced since I have owned the car. The left one was replaced about 4 years ago and the right one 2 years ago. NAPA parts each time. I have never replaced the rear wheel bearings. I put new tires on the car about 2 months ago but did not notice the noise then. The traction light and the ABS light have been on since April but I have yet to investigate this issue. Any help in diagnosis would be appreciated.

Tell us about the tires you put on. Brand, tread type, speed rating, and mileage guarantee. I wonder if your tires are a higher speed rating than original and make a noise with harder rubber. That will be possibly true with higher mileage tires. Or just a coarse tread pattern...

Have you checked air pressure and set it to the door jamb recommendation to test?