Just had new tires put on the wife's 2002 toyota sienna - has about 190k and we have had it from new - beginning to wear out now - was told the front left bearing needs to be replaced $500! I think i can get the whole thing apart and off the vehicle but I do not have a press or heavy equipment to get the bearing out - has anyone done anything like this here? Would be interested to get some further information about replacing the bearing and hub.

My son just replaced the brearing in my wife's Malibu Maax. You have to buy the whole unit (spindle and bearing are 1 piece). He is a mechanic and we did it in my shop. Takes some 'technique' to get the axle out of the bearing. Took about 1 hr. Maybe best left to a pro. HTH

#1 as many have said in the past buy the Manual as in the Chilton's manual so you have an idea of what you have to do. Many auto parts store will rent you a tool that will press in and out bearings like that by the way ask your local O'Reilly's etc about that. I know I would not be afraid to tackle the parts on either one of my Toyota Corollas have 2 of them and by the way why do you say wore out??? My dad had a Toyota Pick up that had 350,000 plus miles on it and it still ran pretty darn good. Ya did use a little oil but 1 qt every 4000 miles wasn't bad at 350,000. One of my Toyota's have 261,000 and still running good

(quoted from post at 01:37:37 12/29/12) Just had new tires put on the wife's 2002 toyota sienna - has about 190k and we have had it from new - beginning to wear out now - was told the front left bearing needs to be replaced $500! I think i can get the whole thing apart and off the vehicle but I do not have a press or heavy equipment to get the bearing out - has anyone done anything like this here? Would be interested to get some further information about replacing the bearing and hub.

Lee

I would jack up the front and feel both sides myself before I tore into it based on what someone in a tire shop told me. Or take it to a Toyota dealer and get a second opinion.

It sounds like the best thing to do is take the hub assembly to a part store and have them do the pressing in and out.

Thanks,

i think that is what I am going to do - I was able to get some good information about removing it - which I think I am going to be able to do - the removal and replacement of the hub and bearing I am going to leave to someone else mainly because I dont have the correct tools for the job - I was quoted about $500 for bearing hub replacement and I am sure a large proportion of this was the labor which I can do.
Of course the weather is against me - this is when I really wish I had a nice dry garage to do the work in - crawling around on wet dirt in the freezing cold is not my idea of fun.
The sienna is still chugging along - it is using up a lot of oil, has a leaky valve cover, and the check engine light is constantly on due to cat not working right - but so far has not died on us.

When working out side card board is your friend. Find a far sized box open both ends and lay it on the ground then use that to sit kneel what ever on and you will be a whole lot warmer BTDT way way to many times. Same if you have to go under a car or truck a box like with a washer or dryer comes in works great to lay on

I'm not ral familiar with the Sienna, but it's one of two types. 1st generation hub bearings require removal of the hub then removal of the bearing which can be done on-the-car with a Hub Shark (costly tool) or off-the-car with a shop press (knuckle removed) therefore usually requiring an alignment. Machine shops can press them in and out. The second type is the 2nd generation in which the hub and bearing are replaced as an assembly which is bolted into the knuckle. These are usually easier to replace. Look for three or four bolts on the back side of the knuckle to find out which type you have. Gerard

(quoted from post at 02:50:37 12/29/12) I'm not ral familiar with the Sienna, but it's one of two types. 1st generation hub bearings require removal of the hub then removal of the bearing which can be done on-the-car with a Hub Shark (costly tool) or off-the-car with a shop press (knuckle removed) therefore usually requiring an alignment. Machine shops can press them in and out. The second type is the 2nd generation in which the hub and bearing are replaced as an assembly which is bolted into the knuckle. These are usually easier to replace. Look for three or four bolts on the back side of the knuckle to find out which type you have. Gerard

Thank you,

I am having father in law clear some space in his garage and will jack it up and check for any wobble - I am hoping it is second generation type so can just remove and replace - however knowing my luck it wont be - the removal of the knuckle does not seem too difficult but the hub and bearing removal does indeed seem to require a press etc.

I second the idea of checking it yourself. Most shops dealing with front ends and wheels that I have dealt with will give you a "Sir, I need you to come and look at this" then show you why you need to have some extra work done.

Of course I'm always there when they are working on it. I don't just drop off a car and go home.

If the wheel wobble is significant and it's a 1st generation hub bearing order a hub too since the press fit will be reduced due to metal loss. Make sure you torque the hub nut to specs and not just "tight". The torque sets the preload. A hefty punch put in the cooling fins of the rotor works great. Post back if you need any more help. Gerard

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