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Moly Coating (lead) cast bullets.

Moly Coating (lead) cast bullets.

Lately at my gun club we had a discussion whether or not it’s recommendable to moly coat lead cast bullets. I know that it is possible and that some of us do so.

Currently I moly coat my jacketed bullets with great success/results but have zero experience with lead bullets. The bullets in mind are the .357 /.44 and .45 revolver/pistol bullets and .30-30 (rifle) bullets.

I tried it, didn't like it. I used Goop hand cleaner to get the last of the moly out of my bore. I'll never have to do that again.

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

If you have the "secret" polymer/moly solution that various commercial casters use, go ahead.
If you simply are burnishing your bullets with MoS2 powder, it would not be sufficient lube.
If you can mix the MoS2 powder into your bullet lube, it might help, maybe.
I love moly-koted bullets from Precision Bullets or Bayou or Black Bullets International.
I never saw any reason to burnish my rifle bullets with MoS2, so I can't comment.

If you take the Lee lube and add 1/4 tea spoon of moly to the 4oz bottle. heat in HOT water and shake . Warm boolits in oven to where they are warm and you can hold them in your hand . tumble a very small amount till boolits are black . Stand on the base on wax paper and let air dry a day or so . They are not sticky and the bore will look like a mirror. The base will be clean and the nose will be just colored.
I size first that way the lub is all over the boolit and going in to case it gets pushed in to the grooves

I have a stick of that stuff I bought a loooooong time ago. I'll probably still have it when I die, in pristine condition.
I bought two sticks at the time...I even tried the orange stuff. I now stay with Lars Carnauba Red.

there was a commercial molly coat made for cast bullets years ago that was written about in handloader magizine that i tried! cant rmember the name but IMO it wasent very good on cast bullets . and messy to work with and slower than useing a Star lube sizer

You can make Lithi - Bee (fryxell's creation) but use lithium grease with MDS. Works well. I further mix this with Lar's CRed 1/2 to1/2. It's "bulletproof", or seems to be. Nothing I've shot it on has leaded or had problems (I'll leave it at that as I haven't done any real testing - but I have used it indiscriminately on high intensity loads with no issues).

You can dry Mule Snot (or xlox) and mix MDS lithium grease 1/2&1/2 with that instead of beeswax too. I also mix this equal parts with C-Red. Probly would be good to further mix this with one part bzwax to two parts of this lube as it is quite soft. Seems to work pretty well though.

Last edited by leftiye; 02-24-2013 at 06:33 AM.

We need somebody/something to keep the government (cops and bureaucrats too) HONEST (by non government oversight).

Every "freedom" (latitude) given to government is a loophole in the rule of law. Every loophole in the rule of law is another hole in our freedom. When they even obey the law that is. Too often government seems to feel itself above the law.

If you have the "secret" polymer/moly solution that various commercial casters use, go ahead.
If you simply are burnishing your bullets with MoS2 powder, it would not be sufficient lube.
If you can mix the MoS2 powder into your bullet lube, it might help, maybe.
I love moly-koted bullets from Precision Bullets or Bayou or Black Bullets International.
I never saw any reason to burnish my rifle bullets with MoS2, so I can't comment.

There is a substance called tungsten disulphide, that is also a black powder, and is slipprier than moly. It has about the same afinity for metal is more stable and can be cleaned off hands and barrels far more easily than moly. t can also be burnished onto Jax bullets. A bit mixed into a wax or petro lube would boost slippery but can't say waht more. Was sold as Danzac at one time. Boron nitride is a white powder of similar property also-doesnt stain. Imay try that w/the 45-45-10

Hello, Stampede. I have been using the Neco system moly coating on .22 cast since the mid 90's. I finish up using carnauba wax..and bullets are then lubed with Lyman Super Moly. Never had any leading in .22 Hornet or .222 Rem. with hottest loads.
When I got back into revolver shooting..(.32WCF thru .45 long colt), I had thought about coating these..but decided against it. First, with the low velocity target loads I use, it isn't needed..but more important I think, is in my fixed sight guns, I was afraid the slicker moly would let the bullets scoot out the bore quicker..acting like a lighter bullet & shoot low on target...just a theory mind you..but I never used it on handgun bullets. Oh, I also use moly on cast for an early German sporter in 7X57..this one likes heavy loads of H4895..and again no leading.

I also have used the Moly NECO/Carnauba system in a 30-BR.I did it after the bullets were sized and GC'ds(then i lubed them) but before i swagged them to the throat.In the end it was not worth the time.i could never prove it helped on a consistent basis.

“When people have tried everything and have discovered that nothing works, they will tend to revert to what they know best—which will often be the tribe, the totem, or the taboo.”
― Christopher Hitchens