I bought a used remote on ebay, (same FCC ID, reportedly from a Highlander), and a cheap VCI cable. After performing the reset procedure, it and the existing remote both registered fine, and now we have two working keys.

I have a Mac, so I ran the software with a VirtualBox install of Windows XP. I also bought a key blank, and I’ll try to get a locksmith to cut a copy of the physical key part of the original remote - that’s a task for this weekend.

Total cost, about $115, plus whatever the physical key cutting costs.

[edit: I forgot: plus €25 for the SEED code]

The only glitch was that, the first time I tried, the used remote didn’t register - turned out the battery had been removed.

I bought a used remote on ebay, (same FCC ID, reportedly from a Highlander), and a cheap VCI cable. After performing the reset procedure, it and the existing remote both registered fine, and now we have two working keys.

I have a Mac, so I ran the software with a VirtualBox install of Windows XP. I also bought a key blank, and Iíll try to get a locksmith to cut a copy of the physical key part of the original remote - thatís a task for this weekend.

Total cost, about $115, plus whatever the physical key cutting costs.

[edit: I forgot: plus Ä25 for the SEED code]

The only glitch was that, the first time I tried, the used remote didnít register - turned out the battery had been removed.

Thanks -Unknown- for a great summary!

Did you original Smartkey have the FCC ID: HYQ14FBA

281451-0020 G Board? Someone said the Lexus also uses that board. Also does the rear hatch button work ?

Somebody sent me a PM asking if I had any luck resolving this issue. It has been a while since I posted my comments but I only had this solved last month. I had purchased standalone (without an attached key) remotes with the same FCC ID (Hyq12bby) but meant for a Camry. I could not program those with Techstream. I said I was going to try with the door open-close process but I didn't just carried on using the door lock by hand.

Then I ordered a full replacement key with the remote, immobilizer chip and had it cut. Programmed the immobilizer chip with Techstream, no problem at all. Then I used the door open-close process to program the remote buttons. That worked. After this success I decided to try with the standalone remote openers I had, using the same manual process, but no luck. So I believe those were faulty.

In any case it pays to try using the manual programming. I used a video meant for the whole process of programming immobilizer with techstream and remote by hand. https://youtu.be/4F3Xu_GdbqU the part about the remote starts at 3:50 mins. I played the video in my phone while doing the process, that made it very easy not to be confused with the steps.

So good luck with it!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovaduck

Thanks again! I will give this a try. I was aware of this procedure, but since I have the Toyota TechStream software I have tried using the functions there. There are two modes, one allows you to check if a remote is adequate and another allows to program a new remote. Neither one works. The detection works just fine with the old remote so I believe this one was used properly. The car will produce a sound when you press a button on a remote which is of the appropriate band (regardless of it being programmed).

I will report back after trying this process, it may work where TS failed.