Description

First Face offers some of the finest climbing in the province, in both sport and traditional styles. Although the climbs are all single pitches, most are a decent length (~25m). And with the added height of the scree slope rising out of Paces Lake, the exposure is delicious. The rock is of unusually fine quality – much friendlier than most of the granite in Nova Scotia – with flat positive holds and decent friction.

In the off-seasons, the rock catches a fair bit of sun and so tends to be warmer than most other places at these times of year. If there’s no wind the bugs can be bad but if it’s blowing, you can steal a few climbing days here during the peak of bug season. It’s also one of the first cliffs to dry after a rain.

It is worth noting that with a limited number of easily accessible moderate routes, a beginner party may be more interested in other local crags such as G-Spot, or The Castle. For more information visit climbnovascotia.ca/crags/

Getting There

Coming from the Musquodoboit Harbour junction, drive past the gated logging road for Main Face, to Paces Lake Drive. Park in a pull-off where the two roads intersect. Walk up Paces Lake Drive to the trail head on the left side of the gate.