Brush the morels if they need it, and then cut them into bite sized pieces and put them aside.

In a wide pot that holds at least four quarts, combine the butter and oil, and heat it at a low flame. When the butter has melted, add the celery, carrots and onion, shallots, scapes and ramps (or leeks). Sauté these until the onion just gains translucence and then add a heaping teaspoon salt.

Add the mushrooms and turn the heat to medium. Stir this once, and then let the mixture cook until the sound from the pot changes from a sizzle to a crackle. Stir in the flour and coat all of the vegetables. (It will look awful, but don't worry.)

Cook this for about two minutes, and then add the cream. Lower the heat again, and stir this until you get a thick mixture, something like a heavy creamed spinach.

Cup by cup, add the stock and stir until you have a creamy uniform soup. Taste and add salt if you need it, or pepper. Add the wine..