Use Couched Elastic to Create a Ruched Effect

Apply a couching technique for a textured effect. The ruched detailed provides a closer fit without compromising comfort.

Jack Deutsch

Apply a couching technique for a textured effect. The ruched detailed provides a closer fit without compromising comfort.

Photo: Jack Deutsch

This technique by Mary Ray from "Teach Yourself to Sew: Indispensable elastics," Threads #173 (June/July 2014), is great for creating a textured embellishment on a garment.

1. Set the machine for a zigzag stitch, and set the stitch width and length to 2 mm or 3 mm. Use a cording foot or a foot with a groove on the bottom, which provides room for the cord to pass through.

2. Couch the beading elastic. From the garment's wrong side, center the cord under the presser foot, leaving a tail of elastic at the beginning and end. Zigzag-stitch over the cord carefully so the needle doesn't penetrate it. As you sew, do not stretch the elastic.

Comments (10)

I opened the sleeve of the jacket and there was 1/4" inch elastic. Its about six inches stretched, and relaxes at 4". There is a separate 6" piece in the sleeve above the cuff.

I think the cuff and 6" piece are sewn first then elastic is placed vertically and sewn on the piece just above the wrist. Elastic is sewn along the seam and all four pieces are evenly distributed around the sleeve.

Its a separate piece of material about 6" plus seams, then gathered to 4". The lining covers all and is attached to the 1" cuff's seam. The elastic is just stitch locked on the ends. The thread is same color as the green jacket.

I have no idea what anchors the elastic in the green jacket or what size elastic is inside. First chance I get I will take it apart and find out. I will let you know.

This week my Janome Excel lost its reverse again, and then the automatic buttonhole maker started pouting, and dawdling. I have an older Kenmore backup until I get it fixed.

I'm turning my 1980s white slacks into cropped pants (35") with three cute buttons & buttonholes on the bottom outside seam of each leg. I saw this on some designer jeans. Virginia

Posted: 11:15 am on June 9th

ReneeDj writes: Oh thank God for your timeliness on this! I'm starting a dress with ruching on the sleeve and bodice and was trying to find a quicker was of doing it. THIS is perfect!
Posted: 11:49 pm on June 5th

First, the pattern for the top is actually a very simple jacket pattern that I adapted. There are no seams where the elastic is placed, although it looks like there are. It's Butterick 3345, view D.

Couching is the technique not a type of elastic and beading elastic will work as will elastic thread, which is very narrow and often used in the bobbin. I prefer couching because I lthink you get more "stretch" that way. I also prefer the beading elastic -- it's a little thicker -- but you can't use it in the bobbin.

Regarding the 1/4" elastic for the sleeve alteration -- it's hard to advise without seeing what you mean, but I think the 1/4" would work. To determine the length needed, test by placing the elastic around your wrist to find a comfortable place that fits the look you want.

I think the best way to deal with the ends of the elastic is to hide them in a seam or hem. If that's not possible, try turning the end back on itself and sewing it in place with a tight stitch. Or, you could even whipstitch it down by hand.
Posted: 4:55 pm on June 5th

AlaskaJean writes: What method do you recommend to fasten the ends of the elastic so they are secure and not obvious? I've been thinking about making some ruffled silk scarves this way, and the deterrent is that final finishing of the elastic ends.

Thanks,
Jean Bartos
Posted: 7:53 pm on June 4th

Villa_for2 writes: I found a cute green jacket at a thrift store. Its long sleeve was gathered by elastic one inch above the wrist. Its gather stretched about 6". It made the jacket sleeve 3/4 in length and so cute.

No collar or buttons and a wide opening to expose the dress beneath. Two inches of same fabric around neck and front. Round neck with no collar or buttons.

Could I use 1/4 inch elastic to copy this? If so how long?

Virginia
Posted: 5:30 pm on June 4th

LaurieDiane writes: Thanks for the tip on Couched Elastic to Create a Ruched Effect. If you don't have a cording foot, could you do the zigzag first then thread the elastic onto a needle and pass it through? I know it's an extra step but in the past I have managed to sew into the elastic.

Is Couched elastic the same as beading elastic...is this a bit thicker than the elastic I might wind on a lower bobbin of my sewing machine? thanks, Laurie
Posted: 10:24 am on June 4th

Mamato8 writes: I use 1 inch non-roll ribbed elastic for a stiff waistband that won't fold or roll. It's much better than make-a-waist! The trick is to not stretch it while sewing the casing over it. My skirt has that on the front flat part of the waist. After over four years of wearing this skirt to work, the elastic is still holding up!
Posted: 1:09 am on June 4th

agapantha writes: Sometimes a vee neckline or sleeveless armhole gapes or ripples a bit. A narrow piece of elastic applied just inside the opening of neck or armhole helps ease these ripples out.
Posted: 11:48 pm on June 3rd

user-262254 writes: What is the shirt pattern that is used to show the couching? I like where the seams are placed.
Posted: 4:37 pm on June 3rd

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