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Couple throwaways couple really fun ones. Have to say pretty jelly of my ocean state cousins and homies right now who are getting more than one or two days of tropo swell this season. We just don't have those set ups around here and the water has been muy frio.

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May be going to hell in a bucket.... but at least I'm enjoying the ride!

There was actually a chest to shoulder+ high south around yesterday but met with the usual combo of 8 second west wind chop and 3 second northwest wind chop. Or did I get it reversed? Nothing like having to paddle over the chop coming at a 45 degree angle only to have the wave you want shift 30 feet to the right at the last second because of the next chop behind it. Oh and of course that fooking fast-dropping tide, causing what would be a normally shaped wave to back off, back off, and then dump in a closeout. It's amazing I got the waves that I did, including a little tuck-in off the drop on my last wave, knew that would be the pinnacle of the session.

We need two things. I don't care how many carbon credits it takes - get that goddamn east pacific high pressure over the desert where it belongs and blow that moon out of the fooking sky so we can have 12-hour tide intervals with a lot less swing.

I think it's been at least a year where I had a post-work sesh where it was glassed off and the tide wasn't fucked.

And I don't know WTF is up with the retard count on the roads lately.

I need a day with decent waves, no fooking wind (98% of my sessions are in blown-out cross-chop conditions), tolerable tides, and minimal people. Venting that all is mildly therapeutic too.

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Nothing is obscene provided it is done in bad taste.

Had a surprisingly fun session yesterday at a local just North of town. South influence was dominant and the Harbour fish was the perfect vehicle for the session. Saw an old friend in the water that I haven't seen in ages. It was good to share the lefts and have that comfortable vibe in and around us. Lots of fish in the lineup which kept our awareness on high alert. Especially with the man in the grey suit being sited almost daily up here.

There was actually a chest to shoulder+ high south around yesterday but met with the usual combo of 8 second west wind chop and 3 second northwest wind chop. Or did I get it reversed? Nothing like having to paddle over the chop coming at a 45 degree angle only to have the wave you want shift 30 feet to the right at the last second because of the next chop behind it. Oh and of course that fooking fast-dropping tide, causing what would be a normally shaped wave to back off, back off, and then dump in a closeout. It's amazing I got the waves that I did, including a little tuck-in off the drop on my last wave, knew that would be the pinnacle of the session.

We need two things. I don't care how many carbon credits it takes - get that goddamn east pacific high pressure over the desert where it belongs and blow that moon out of the fooking sky so we can have 12-hour tide intervals with a lot less swing.

I think it's been at least a year where I had a post-work sesh where it was glassed off and the tide wasn't fucked.

And I don't know WTF is up with the retard count on the roads lately.

I need a day with decent waves, no fooking wind (98% of my sessions are in blown-out cross-chop conditions), tolerable tides, and minimal people. Venting that all is mildly therapeutic too.

get a hall pass borther.....camp site or shitty hotel....lets burn the goddamn thing down. tell homegirl it is called for because you are going back to be superdad

There was actually a chest to shoulder+ high south around yesterday but met with the usual combo of 8 second west wind chop and 3 second northwest wind chop. Or did I get it reversed? Nothing like having to paddle over the chop coming at a 45 degree angle only to have the wave you want shift 30 feet to the right at the last second because of the next chop behind it. Oh and of course that fooking fast-dropping tide, causing what would be a normally shaped wave to back off, back off, and then dump in a closeout. It's amazing I got the waves that I did, including a little tuck-in off the drop on my last wave, knew that would be the pinnacle of the session.

We need two things. I don't care how many carbon credits it takes - get that goddamn east pacific high pressure over the desert where it belongs and blow that moon out of the fooking sky so we can have 12-hour tide intervals with a lot less swing.

I think it's been at least a year where I had a post-work sesh where it was glassed off and the tide wasn't fucked.

And I don't know WTF is up with the retard count on the roads lately.

I need a day with decent waves, no fooking wind (98% of my sessions are in blown-out cross-chop conditions), tolerable tides, and minimal people. Venting that all is mildly therapeutic too.

get a hall pass borther.....camp site or shitty hotel....lets burn the goddamn thing down. tell homegirl it is called for because you are going back to be superdad

The seeds have been planted. Large hall pass in her eyes but will be very healthy for my sanity. Warm water barrels usually are.

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Nothing is obscene provided it is done in bad taste.

Couple throwaways couple really fun ones. Have to say pretty jelly of my ocean state cousins and homies right now who are getting more than one or two days of tropo swell this season. We just don't have those set ups around here and the water has been muy frio.

Up in your area right now. Holy crap the water is chilly!

Unfortunately my short visit put me in between swells

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