hi there guys, this diy is only if your car is damaged and for the people who just want to move the car in and out the garage or to loaded the car on to a truck so on. but if you want to go buy a new lead from the dealer thats up to you, am just showing you what to do when you dont have a new lead.

first of all i would like to say i done this to my car because i brought my car damaged and once the car gets damaged the car goes in to a safety mode, so you cant start the car. every thing else will works fine in the car.

the only way you can start your car is by buying a new positive lead or using a boster pack on front of the car or by passing the positive lead.

if you do use a boster pack and you start your car, your battery wont charge and it will show up on your dashboard of your car saying your battery is diying. once the battery dies, your boot will get locked. thats what happen to me and the dude from bmw came down to my garage and he open the boot for me and it wasnt easy for him it took him 45min or longer to open the boot.

Before you start on by passing the lead, you will have to take the battery out and you will see the red lead connected at bottom to take it out there is a 10mm nut and undo the nut and the lead will come out and then you can start work on the lead.

picture 1 = you can see a positive lead i have draw up, the reason why you can't start your car is. because of the black plastic which you can see in the diagram with the arrow under it and that plastic falls in the gap where the arrow is pointing so no current can go throught that means you cant start your car. the power that does go throught you cant start the car with that.

picture 2 = that is the red box which is around the positive lead which you have to cut open, once you open it you will see two positive leads with the plastic in between the leads. ( to open the red box i used a soldering gun to cut throught the plastic. )

in diagram one you can see the red positive lead that you have to pull out ( which is easy to do ) once you do that, take the black plastic out and enjoy the two leads up and your car will start.

Be advised the alternator power cable spade is wider than will fit between the two vertical plastic guide tabs that may be flanking stud 6 and will damage them (just cosmetic damage which protective cover 4 hides: doesn't really cause any other issues) unless spacers are added before the cable is installed (a pair of 3/8" washers will do).

This works if the fuse of the Power Distribution Box (the flat panel attached over the battery) hasn't blown.

WHY IT WORKS:
Stud 6 is directly connected to B+ portion of the positive battery cable, whereas stud 7 and the jump prong is connected to the BST portion of the positive battery cable. If the BST is blown, stud 7 is disconnected from the battery, but B+/stud 6 is not.

Because B+ cable is of a smaller diameter, this should be done only as a temporary bypass: the BST battery cable should be replaced as soon as possible to prevent potential overheating (and catastrophic meltdown) of the B+ cable.

What I believe the OP is doing is removing the BST cable, cutting open the square housing that contains the charge and mechanism that separates the cable from the clamp then manually forcing that cable to reconnect to the clamp:

Honestly, that method is very time consuming and would suggest you follow my easier method.

But keep in mind my method only works if the Power Distribution Box (the flat red tray on top of the battery) also hasn't blown (there is a small detonatable "fuse" under the "+" cover at the top of the photo that is also designed to be triggered in the event of collision to disable accessory power; the BST cable is designed only to disconnect the battery from the alternator/starter):

What I believe the OP is doing is removing the BST cable, cutting open the square housing that contains the charge and mechanism that separates the cable from the clamp then manually forcing that cable to reconnect to the clamp:

Honestly, that method is very time consuming and would suggest you follow my easier method.

But keep in mind my method only works if the Power Distribution Box (the flat red tray on top of the battery) also hasn't blown (there is a small detonatable "fuse" under the "+" cover at the top of the photo that is also designed to be triggered in the event of collision to disable accessory power; the BST cable is designed only to disconnect the battery from the alternator/starter):