Only you can determine your steadiness with various lenses and even then it would vary depending on how tired you are, how much coffee you've had, etc.

When in doubt, I always reach for a tripod. (Or up the ISO.)

I've got a friend who's never drank coffee and (not sure that's the reason or not) he can hand-hold a lens at a slower shutter speed than anyone I've ever met. Three, sometimes four, stops lower than I can.

Only you can determine your steadiness with various lenses and even then it would vary depending on how tired you are, how much coffee you've had, etc.

When in doubt, I always reach for a tripod. (Or up the ISO.)

I've got a friend who's never drank coffee and (not sure that's the reason or not) he can hand-hold a lens at a slower shutter speed than anyone I've ever met. Three, sometimes four, stops lower than I can.

Learn your limits and don't be afraid of your tripod.

My post was related to the RAW file. The JPEG is tack sharp.

But i still don't understand why there is so much difference in sharpness....

Only you can determine your steadiness with various lenses and even then it would vary depending on how tired you are, how much coffee you've had, etc.

When in doubt, I always reach for a tripod. (Or up the ISO.)

I've got a friend who's never drank coffee and (not sure that's the reason or not) he can hand-hold a lens at a slower shutter speed than anyone I've ever met. Three, sometimes four, stops lower than I can.

What's the minimum shutterspeed for the 23mm Fuji prime to take pictures without blur ? (handheld).

Today i tried this lens on a X-E1 but with a shutterspeed of 1/60 with 1,4 apterture at iso200 but it was not possible to take a picture without blur (indoor shooting handheld).

Blur is a lot more noticeable on a 16MP camera than it would be on most 35mm film, especially since noone ever looked at 100% screen files (30" prints).

The 1/FL rule is totally inadequate for most people. For one thing APSC means the FL is effectively 1.5X greater, and secondly the rule was invented for 12" prints.

My baseline (minimum) is 1/2FL, which still takes a fair amount of good technique, but this does not necessarily translate equally to all focal lengths. Light cameras tend to be harder to control as well (less intertia) and still may not be critically sharp at 100%.

Generally I use 1/50 as a minimum for the 14, 1/100 as a minimum for the 23 and 35, and 1/200 for everything else, simply because it seems to work. But I still have to be VERY careful when hand-holding. However the Fuji is usable enough up to ISO1600 for this not to be a problem.

Depends how steady are your hands and how you hold the camera...Considering the crop factor and the 23mm lens (35mm ff equiv)...1/35 is enough with a dlsr (slr style). With a rangefinder (if you don't have the lateral grip and your hands are not so steady) 1/80 is the best bet imo.

I think minimum shutter speed is one of the disadvantages of smaller formats; before Fuji enabled min speed in Auto ISO, it used to default to 1/F where the F is full-frame equivalent - so with the 35mm, it would go to 1/52.

Now, I don't have fun with that 1/F. In my experience, it works a lot better with 1/(full frame F + APS-C F), which would make the 35 require 1/(35 + 50) = 1/85; in practice, 1/100 (and I notice that Bert Stephani uses this too).

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

I think minimum shutter speed is one of the disadvantages of smaller formats; before Fuji enabled min speed in Auto ISO, it used to default to 1/F where the F is full-frame equivalent - so with the 35mm, it would go to 1/52.

Now, I don't have fun with that 1/F. In my experience, it works a lot better with 1/(full frame F + APS-C F), which would make the 35 require 1/(35 + 50) = 1/85; in practice, 1/100 (and I notice that Bert Stephani uses this too).

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

I think minimum shutter speed is one of the disadvantages of smaller formats; before Fuji enabled min speed in Auto ISO, it used to default to 1/F where the F is full-frame equivalent - so with the 35mm, it would go to 1/52.

Now, I don't have fun with that 1/F. In my experience, it works a lot better with 1/(full frame F + APS-C F), which would make the 35 require 1/(35 + 50) = 1/85; in practice, 1/100 (and I notice that Bert Stephani uses this too).

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

I think minimum shutter speed is one of the disadvantages of smaller formats; before Fuji enabled min speed in Auto ISO, it used to default to 1/F where the F is full-frame equivalent - so with the 35mm, it would go to 1/52.

Now, I don't have fun with that 1/F. In my experience, it works a lot better with 1/(full frame F + APS-C F), which would make the 35 require 1/(35 + 50) = 1/85; in practice, 1/100 (and I notice that Bert Stephani uses this too).

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

LR5

Do you use the defaults on import? (Sharpening amount 25, Radius 1.0)

Yes

Could you show us the Samsung camera shot exported at LR5 defaults? Just want to look at the sharpness compared to the earlier JPG (which was OOC?).

For the 23, 1/(23 + 35) = 1/58, so I use 1/60 as a minimum and that's fine - as your JPG shows. The real mystery you have is why the default output from RAW is not sharp - what are you using to post-process?

LR5

Do you use the defaults on import? (Sharpening amount 25, Radius 1.0)

Yes

Could you show us the Samsung camera shot exported at LR5 defaults? Just want to look at the sharpness compared to the earlier JPG (which was OOC?).