I bought my Lac once it started, picked it up 6months later. Lost my job in the new year of 12. Bought a battery and it wouldn't start again.
I need a engine. Vin 9 touring coupe 93,
I'm in Austin Tx, I found a 99 STS with the same Vin, what would I need to do in order to make that Engine work in my car? What years can I get this engine from then?

Austin does not know much about this car but when I say Cadillac,it's No were not working on that car. I'm org from MI,
So I know about these cars and the prev owners didn't take care of the engine.
Head gasket problem and they drove it with Water in it. Found out once I drained the fluids out of it.

200 for the engine if that 99 Seville STS will work.
Please Help me out, I'm tired of calling my old state for help!!!!

MoistCabbage

10-01-13, 05:09 AM

Wrong forum.

There's a "sticky" thread in the Northstar forum on interchangeability.

Any engine you swap in might have the same problem as the one you're taking out. On top of that, '99 is the most prone to HG issues, according to an unscientific poll on this site.

Just repair the engine that's in the car now, it will outlast the rest of the car.

Submariner409

10-01-13, 10:11 AM

1993 was OBD1, 1999 was OBD-II (data and diagnostics, sensors) and 1993 was ECM controlled, 1999 is PCM controlled - different sensors and connectors. ......... and the engines are mechanically different also.

I bought my Lac once it started, picked it up 6months later. Lost my job in the new year of 12. Bought a battery and it wouldn't start again.
I need a engine. Vin 9 touring coupe 93,
I'm in Austin Tx, I found a 99 STS with the same Vin, what would I need to do in order to make that Engine work in my car? What years can I get this engine from then?

Austin does not know much about this car but when I say Cadillac,it's No were not working on that car. I'm org from MI,
So I know about these cars and the prev owners didn't take care of the engine.
Head gasket problem and they drove it with Water in it. Found out once I drained the fluids out of it.

200 for the engine if that 99 Seville STS will work.
Please Help me out, I'm tired of calling my old state for help!!!!

Can you repeat this but in english please?

93 L-Dawg

10-01-13, 04:57 PM

Can you repeat this but in english please?

It was in English,

I have a 93 Cadillac Eldorado with a NorthStar engine in it. 4.6 Vin 9, it locked up.

I don't have the right Job in order to rebuild my motor at this time.

I've found a few and one was out of a NorthStar 99 Seville STS.

I need to know what year can I pull the NorthStar engine out of.

I live in Austin,TX

vincentm

10-01-13, 05:06 PM

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199946

Also Tim Carroll with Carroll custom cadillac just relocated to Texas he eats Northstars for lunch and can be of assisance. Hes located in fort worth area

Carrollcustomcadillac.com

93 L-Dawg

10-01-13, 05:30 PM

Hi guys, I have a 93 Eldorado that I bought years ago. 600 with a tranny issue. It's the engine that is messed up. Basic it locked up while siting.

Got a job and towed in to Austin,TX.
Pulled all the fluids out of the car and dropped the oil and water.
Horror Head Gasket Problem and their was No antifreeze in it only Water.

I don't make that kind of money to rebuild mines
right now.

What engine years can I pull this North Star out of???

The junk yard wants 200 with a 90 day warranty.

I've found a few but their in a 96 to a 99 Seville STS.

I'm pulling my old engine out of my car on my days off.

I'm org from MI, they won't ship it down to Austin for me. So I'm stuck in Austin striking out unless I can get a ride down to Houston or up to Dallas for it.

I need some help on what years can I use and what would I haft to do in order to make the 97 work in my 93 L-Dawg???
Ty
Cameron
Austin,Tx

93 L-Dawg

10-01-13, 05:33 PM

Ty ill look him up, I'm try to move back up that way, lol

MoistCabbage

10-01-13, 05:54 PM

Interchange information is on page 1 and 2 of the Interchange thread. Have you read through it?

You wouldn't have to rebuild anything, just buy an insert or stud kit, ~$500. Do you really want to chance having to tear it apart again?

Submariner409

10-01-13, 06:37 PM

MC and 93 L-Dawg - I moved these 2 essentially identical posts ^^ from Northstar Interchange to the OP's original thread - duplicates are only gong to cause confusion.

L-Dawg, let this original thread and questions do the work - there is already a LOT of info in here as-is.

Ranger

10-01-13, 09:24 PM

You DO NOT want a '99 engine, doable or not (unless it has already had the thread repair done).

MoistCabbage

10-02-13, 03:34 AM

MC and 93 L-Dawg - I moved these 2 essentially identical posts ^^ from Northstar Interchange to the OP's original thread - duplicates are only gong to cause confusion.I thought I was having déjà vu.

93 L-Dawg

10-02-13, 04:35 AM

No, I've been tearing down more bolts and taking off more wires. Goodness, well I must say and ask, is not the starter held by only two bolts? Then it's comes out right????? It did not come out at all.

----------

Hey MC, if I read right, 95 North Star won't work in my 93? I'm going to see if my home boy can see if he can rebuild it.

MoistCabbage

10-02-13, 04:58 AM

A '95 will work, but yo're going to have to swap the intake.....and heads. Which means you'll have to insert or stud the block anyway.....which is all hour existing engine needs to begin with (unless there's some other problem you haven't mentioned). You'll be in the same situation for '96+ engines, and they'll require even more work to make them compatible.

The only years that are a direct swap are '93 and '94, and again, any engine you install could have the same (or more) problem/s as yours. And as posted, your engine doesn't need a rebuild, it just needs to be inserted or studded, and if it leaks oil, a gasket kit.

It would cost the same or slightly more to do a thread repair on your existing engine, as it would to replace it (depending on the deal you get on the used engine, and weather or not it needs a reseal (gasket kit).

To be perfectly honest: You're doing/getting help for the labor anyway. If you can't afford an insert/stud kit and a gasket set, you can't afford to maintain the car.

93 L-Dawg

10-02-13, 05:58 AM

A '95 will work, but yo're going to have to swap the intake.....and heads. Which means you'll have to insert or stud the block anyway.....which is all hour existing engine needs to begin with (unless there's some other problem you haven't mentioned). You'll be in the same situation for '96+ engines, and they'll require even more work to make them compatible.

The only years that are a direct swap are '93 and '94, and again, any engine you install could have the same (or more) problem/s as yours. And as posted, your engine doesn't need a rebuild, it just needs to be inserted or studded, and if it leaks oil, a gasket kit.

It would cost the same or slightly more to do a thread repair on your existing engine, as it would to replace it (depending on the deal you get on the used engine, and weather or not it needs a reseal (gasket kit).

To be perfectly honest: You're doing/getting help for the labor anyway. If you can't afford an insert/stud kit and a gasket set, you can't afford to maintain the car.

Basic I sent it to the Shop once it wouldn't turn over back in may of this year. Turns out that the motor had locked up. Prior to that I started it up before I paid 600 for the car. Lost my job so it set 6 months before I could tow it.

Junk yard will sell me one for 200 with a 90 day warranty. I haft to pull it out if the cars.

Every one that I checked out were ok and the heads were fine on them and stuff.
I didn't want to pull them out not knowing if they would just drop right into my caddy.

Austin does not deal much with our cars like where I'm org from which is Detroit.
I found one shop that would look at it.

I'm see if my home boy can rebuild mines then. Cause I'm about tired of looking at these junk yards and not finding my motor for it.

Some one told me that I could just put the corvette engine in it????

How true is this?
Ty mc,
Starter did I take out the bolts? Are their any more left beside the two that I took out?

MoistCabbage

10-02-13, 06:12 AM

How are you sure the HGs are OK on the engines you 're looking at? Are you doing block tests?

No, a corvette engine will not bolt in in any way, shape, or form.

Just 2 bolts for the starter. Give it a love tap with a rubber mallet.

93 L-Dawg

10-02-13, 07:42 AM

How are you sure the HGs are OK on the engines you 're looking at? Are you doing block tests?

No, a corvette engine will not bolt in in any way, shape, or form.

Just 2 bolts for the starter. Give it a love tap with a rubber mallet.

Checked the oil and stuff and smelled it.
I knew the vette wouldn't wk, lmao,
Ty on the starter it looks like it has never been touched. At least the stickers say 07, been sitting sense then before I came a long, lol

I'm try to look into rebuilding mines but as of right now I don't have the cash for that. A used engine I do. Patience on finding the right one then.

Ty mc your advice is helping and I love my lac, I'm not going to give up at all.

Ranger

10-02-13, 10:55 AM

Forget the oil. Coolant will not seep into the oil when a HG fails on a Northstar.

93 L-Dawg

10-02-13, 05:22 PM

Forget the oil. Coolant will not seep into the oil when a HG fails on a Northstar.

Ty for the heads up :)

94CaddyConcours

10-07-13, 12:04 AM

Have you tried removing all spart plugs and turning the engine manually?

93 L-Dawg

10-11-13, 04:03 AM

Have you tried removing all spart plugs and turning the engine manually?

No I haven't, I've been working sense Sunday. I'm off today, so I'm going to finish unhooking it and dropping the motor today. How do I manually turn the engine?? Consider that it's still in my car?

MoistCabbage

10-11-13, 09:18 AM

Use a breaker bar to turn the crank pulley by the bolt.

No offense intended at all, but based on that question, I'm not sure doing the rebuild yourself is the best idea. Do you have an FSM?

93 L-Dawg

10-11-13, 06:57 PM

Use a breaker bar to turn the crank pulley by the bolt.

No offense intended at all, but based on that question, I'm not sure doing the rebuild yourself is the best idea. Do you have an FSM?

Thought so, just making sure and No I'm not rebuild my engine no way, my dad taught me how to fix cars, only eng that I've rebuilt was my Chevy truck.

93 L-Dawg

10-12-13, 06:23 PM

Well my boy said that I can rebuild the top have of the motor, I'm buy the gasket set and I'm taking the heads to the machine shop. Stud kit is in order:)

MoistCabbage

10-12-13, 06:32 PM

Which stud kit are you using?

93 L-Dawg

10-14-13, 12:13 AM

Which stud kit are you using?

Sure grip ??? Unless theirs a better one out their?

Drop the tranny pan last night and I didn't any metal shavings, I believe that my tranny is still good then :)

What should I put under the eng cradle before I unbolt it the power assembly??? Drop it on a dolly or is their something else I can use??? I'm haft to jack it up higher then where it's at right now.

Mc, to many ifs on a used engine from the junk yards around here and I just came out better just rebuild mines. I just couldn't find the right motor for my L-Dawg, found every thing else, lmao,

How do I get the head gasket off? Do I need to pull the pulley off of it before I left it off?

I haven't taken it to the shop yet, it's still in the car,I'm calling around checking on prices first.

93 L-Dawg

10-15-13, 05:42 AM

What can I put under the engine cradle in order to keep it from slamming on top of me? Once I start taking the bolts out? 2nd my valve cover won't come off, do I need to take the Pulley off of it?

stoveguyy

10-15-13, 11:05 AM

Most folks get 2-3 small wheeled dollys to drop subframe on. Than it can be wheeled out from under car. U gotta dig up these Dolly's. Or make them.

93 L-Dawg

10-15-13, 03:02 PM

Most folks get 2-3 small wheeled dollys to drop subframe on. Than it can be wheeled out from under car. U gotta dig up these Dolly's. Or make them.

Sell a wheel dolly 4 wheels on it. I'm go back to the store and look at it.

93 L-Dawg

10-16-13, 12:35 AM

Different issue, I have it jacked up and it's not high enough to clear the engine once I drop it unto the dolly. What can I do or use in order to raise my car up more???? I don't want to pay a shop to drop the motor and ALL I have is the bolts and bam it drops out.:)

I'm ready to dig in to my block and see how bad the heads are and stuff.

I found a Guy here in Austin that would do my Stud kit for 300 once I'm able to order it.

His Caddy is still running fine to this day.

93 L-Dawg

10-16-13, 12:54 AM

I've been looking around in this Head Gasket forum trying to figure out which way should I go with this car. I just learned that I could do a time insets??? Instead of doing the stud kit?

Can any one Mc somebody help me out. This is going to be my first Head Gasket job. I know it's time consuming but some help would be good for me right now, I would ask my dad for help but he's dead :(. I know that I haft to buy a Head Gasket kit for it and both orileys and Auto zone and Napa haft to order the kit.

Should I do a Block test on my engine before I do anything to it?? I don't know the history of this car sense it was suppose to have a tranny Issue and it does not have one.
Ty guys for the help

I know that you said a Dolly. Been siting here looking at my car and I feel as if its prob better that I take the engine out from the Top? I still need to remove the steering and I don't know how to locate it so I won't mess it up like other people have. Feed back please?

Ranger

10-16-13, 10:39 AM

You could also use Norm's NS300L inserts. http://huhnsolutions.com/

Do the block test if you are not sure the HG is the problem.

Ranger

10-16-13, 10:43 AM

Removing the engine from the top is generally considered more difficult by those who have done it.

If you need to lift the car higher to get the drivetrain out, rent an engine puller and lift it by the radiator support. There is a picture of that operation somewhere in the archives.

stoveguyy

10-16-13, 11:01 AM

Uh, jacked up? How u doing this? U should use a cherry picker. U lower the subframe onto the Dolly's. Than u lift the car with the cherry picker. U are not lifting motor/trans/subframe. But once u start this u see the legs of the cherry picker are now under the subframe. So there is an interference issue. I ran into this when I used cherry picker to hold motor so I could drop subframe to pull trans. Picker legs were in the way of jacks I used to lower subframe. I should have got a motor support bracket. Only $60 at harbor. But u need to lift car. Different issue.

Submariner409

10-16-13, 11:36 AM

2nd my valve cover won't come off, do I need to take the Pulley off of it?

The water pump drive pulley is TIGHTLY pressed onto the left bank intake cam extension. You need special puller/installer to work with it.

You desperately need a GM service manual. There's just too much in the way of special procedures to do this job blind.

Your two question/answer posts on heads/gaskets/studs from another thread have been moved to this one.

93 L-Dawg

10-16-13, 03:33 PM

The water pump drive pulley is TIGHTLY pressed onto the left bank intake cam extension. You need special puller/installer to work with it.

You desperately need a GM service manual. There's just too much in the way of special procedures to do this job blind.

Your two question/answer posts on heads/gaskets/studs from another thread have been moved to this one.

Ty sub, I thought I was crazy or something,
Well I have chiltions book. So far I've gotten good with it.
I just noticed with the stands under it, it's not high enough to drop it out of the car.

I've pretty much have taken every thing off of it.

Heads are concerned, I found water in the oil and that's a head Gasket job.

I herd that I could do the time insets instead.
I wanna do it right the first time.

I feel like a sucker at times, I started it up even tho it barley started. I was ok with that.

6 months later it wouldn't turn over at all.
Here I am now just trying to get it back to normal.

Submariner409

10-16-13, 08:06 PM

Before someone else says it --- The Chilton is far, far too generic for your car., Find a real GM/Helm service manual. eBay or www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com). Megabucks now, or consider subscribing the car to www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com). A multiple year subscription is less than a tank of gas and you get a LOT more than just the GM manuals.

Most engine drops out the bottom see the entire front of the car lifted with a 3 ton engine cherrypicker, using the radiator crossbrace. Drop the entire cradle/powertrain onto a pallet jack and roll it out. Lower the front onto jackstands for the duration.

93 L-Dawg

10-17-13, 12:30 AM

Before someone else says it --- The Chilton is far, far too generic for your car., Find a real GM/Helm service manual. eBay or www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com). Megabucks now, or consider subscribing the car to www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com). A multiple year subscription is less than a tank of gas and you get a LOT more than just the GM manuals.

Most engine drops out the bottom see the entire front of the car lifted with a 3 ton engine cherrypicker, using the radiator crossbrace. Drop the entire cradle/powertrain onto a pallet jack and roll it out. Lower the front onto jackstands for the duration.

Lmao Sub,Ty man, where can I get a pallet jack at? I was gonna buy a dolly and I'm try to rent a cherry picker, some one else said to use a tranny jack??? I'm gonna look it up.

stoveguyy

10-17-13, 11:11 AM

U can jack up car, lower subframe and than pull trans. That works for driveway trans job. But not so much for motor drop. Not sure of your motor lowering plan

93 L-Dawg

10-18-13, 09:14 AM

U can jack up car, lower subframe and than pull trans. That works for driveway trans job. But not so much for motor drop. Not sure of your motor lowering plan

Drop the hole power assem from the bottom. I've found a cherry picker on yesterday. Success Guys!!! I went to harbor fright and they have those wheel dollies, Going to drop the power assem unto that.

Am I missing something else????

mjbrome

10-20-13, 01:11 AM

I did mine in my driveway as well. It sucked but got it done. To get the car up I maxed out the jack, set 6 ton jackstands under it (weights not an issue, just taller) and put the jack on top of a block and did it again. If you do this be extremely careful as you jack it up because the jack won't move with the car as it goes up. Set it back on the stands if the block starts to tip or anything and reposition. When lowereing the cradle I placed my motorcycle jack on the rear end as a caster and my 3 ton jack on the front. When I was installing I put the wheels back so I can push on them. Wish I would have tried this for removal as well. Sometimes you have to work with what you got and think like a farmer!

93 L-Dawg

11-01-13, 06:57 PM

Up Date, I've gotten the GM repair manual for my car. I can't seem to find the page were it talks about removing the power assembly and the cradle???

Transmission any one know if the 93 L-Dawg has the t80 tranny or is it the t60e? Ty guys.

Happy my car was made in my MI plant :) yay I have a piece of MI History!!!

vincentm

11-01-13, 07:50 PM

Up Date, I've gotten the GM repair manual for my car. I can't seem to find the page were it talks about removing the power assembly and the cradle???

Transmission any one know if the 93 L-Dawg has the t80 tranny or is it the t60e? Ty guys.

Happy my car was made in my MI plant :) yay I have a piece of MI History!!!

Theres no exact section for cradle removal, look in engine section and it should be listed under removal

93 L-Dawg

11-01-13, 09:17 PM

Theres no exact section for cradle removal, look in engine section and it should be listed under removal

Ty vin,

Harry Yarnell

11-02-13, 04:43 PM

As for the starter, yes, only two bolts, and it should fall out. Since you said the engine's 'locked up', maybe the starter's drive is binding on the flywheel. Still, it should just wiggle out.
Tranny is a 4T80.
Removal of the cradle is not (I don't think) in the shop manual, but should be common sense what has to be disconnected.

93 L-Dawg

11-03-13, 02:11 AM

As for the starter, yes, only two bolts, and it should fall out. Since you said the engine's 'locked up', maybe the starter's drive is binding on the flywheel. Still, it should just wiggle out.
Tranny is a 4T80.
Removal of the cradle is not (I don't think) in the shop manual, but should be common sense what has to be disconnected.

Ty Harry, it's the org Starter, lol but I'll get it out, may tap on it cause it didn't wiggle out at all.

Reason I asked because I couldn't find the transmission listed in the book. Yea the cradle is common sense. I'm just glad that I have it ready to come out :)

I just waiting for my boy to get his hands on that cherry picker. I want to take it to the machine shop and see if they can get her back to running :) I am replacing the oil pump and stuff. If your gonna do it then do it right!!! I plan on keeping my car. Unless I get married and have a kid again!!!! Not gonna happen.
I'm a Caddy Man!

93 L-Dawg

12-02-13, 04:00 PM

Lost my job, car stalls for a sec, ran across some head bolts on eBay motors last night and I wanted yaw input on buy em off of e bay?
Ty I've gotten interviews but not hired yet.

vincentm

12-02-13, 04:49 PM

Lost my job, car stalls for a sec, ran across some head bolts on eBay motors last night and I wanted yaw input on buy em off of e bay?
Ty I've gotten interviews but not hired yet.

Head bolts will only be useful if youre using Normserts..the bolt holes themselves need to be drilled and retapped for either studs or serts nothing else, this isnt a small task by any means..

93 L-Dawg

12-08-13, 02:06 AM

Head bolts will only be useful if youre using Normserts..the bolt holes themselves need to be drilled and retapped for either studs or serts nothing else, this isnt a small task by any means..

Buy the head gasket kit right? Then the head bolts studs? I have a guy that will do it. Shoot I'm not able to do that.

Sense I lost my job, I do nothing right now to my car. Engine is still in the car, minus I've taken it apart drop the cradle and I haven't located a engine hoist yet.

98eldo32v

12-09-13, 05:07 PM

I see that you're in the middle of repairing you Eldorado.....

I see that you're dropping the cradle........

A word of advice.

If working WITHOUT a lift......don't even think of dropping a cradle.

Between raising the car high enough for the engine/trans to clear AND that's high enough for you to slide it out with a dolly or pallet jack. Removing brake hoses, disconnecting the ebcm, disconnecting the steering rack, locking the steering wheel in position so you don't ruin the clock spring, possibly removing the sub frame with the struts still attached, disconnecting the harness that runs over the transmission, (wait till you have to put it back....), then loosening the exhaust system, removal of the rear flex pipe, coolant hoses/ pipes and the best part the wiring harness from inside the car on the passenger side comes through the firewall.

Yes, the cradle drop sounds nice because it's the FACTORY way because at the FACTORY/DEALERSHIP they usually have lifts and the necessary dollies and such to deal with this sort of thing AND the dealership/factory is going to do this multiple times because THEY have to service the vehicle. How many times are you planning to service head gaskets? Are you going to buy a pallet jack for one time use? 6 ton jack stands and everything associated for "occasional" use?

OR........ raise the vehicle high enough to loosen the torque converter bolts, remove the brackets holding the trans to the engine, the front motor mount, and everything else associated to the removal of just the engine. Remove the engine and work on the engine.

After you drop that sub frame, you STILL have to now breakdown the motor?!

I can't even imagine putting the cradle back in without a lift to lower it a little at a time to make sure you don't damage anything. Heaven forbid you cut or pinch a wire, can you say electrical nightmare?

If the struts came out with the cradle, I hope you have at least one buddy hanging around to help you guide them back into the body.

I've removed these engines BOTH ways practically by myself.

Dropping the sub frame will be an option when there is no other option.

Since you have yourself lined up for the cradle drop, you have a bit of work cut out for you either way.

If you're going through all of this, I hope you are planning to use studs.

I wish you the best of luck and hope you return your car to the road soon.

93 L-Dawg

12-20-13, 07:19 AM

You are so right!!! Sense I couldn't locate a rental shop for the engine host yet. The engine is sitting in the car. All I've done is taken off all the wires going to the engine and all the horses. Coil pack has been taken off as well. Left and right motor mounts are off.

Sense I can't get my hands on any lift. I'm kinda stuck.

It would make better sense to me if I could pull the motor from the top wouldn't it?

Your help would be very grateful.
I spoke with a guy here in Austin and he said that it would be better if I just rebuilt mines instead of buying one from a junk yard.

Only junk yards that have the right motor are way out side of Austin,Tx and the shipping is 3 to 400 extra on top of what I'm paying for the engine and I can't inspect it until I get it.

To many risk.
Ty for your help

98eldo32v

12-20-13, 08:04 AM

Engine hoist.......

Either borrow one from someone that has one or you'll be buying one. I don't know how the rental of one for those things goes, but if it's by the day, you'll end up owning one when the job is all over.

----------

Look here,

http://row52.com/Yards

One of those yards should be close enough to you to get "extra" parts if needed

----------

I just "combed" through them.......all "B" motors (4.9) at least near you

Tailfin

12-21-13, 05:21 PM

Did you actually order the studs? They are often agreed to be the best option, but if you are THAT screwed as far as removing the engine, Norms NS300L inserts (already mentioned above more than once) are a viable option (I just did my engine with them). You can do the job without removing the engine totally if you don't use studs. You will, however, need to at least unbolt the cradle and use jacks to raise/lower the front and back of it at times for better access. The pulley you asked about before, and Submariner told you about--you need a power steering puller...it's the same thing really. You can buy one cheap at Harbor Freight, or rent one from Autozone or something.

I'm getting the impression that you might not be aware of some of the annoyances that you'll encounter. First, you'll want to order the guide pins/dowels that are in the block/head. You will never get them out without destroying them lol... The GM part number is 3522352 - you need 4 of them.

Make sure you have an angle gauge for your wrench, because the torque instructions on the head bolts and the crank bolt call for a torque setting, then certain degrees of rotation.

When removing the crank bolt, you'll need the flywheel holder they mention...or some other way to hold the engine from moving when you remove it. That thing is ON there (and must be put back ON there according to spec)

With either inserts or studs, you'll be drilling the holes that the head bolts go into bigger, and tapping them, etc... You'll need an appropriate drill.

The service manuals are a bit of a pain to navigate sometimes. As I mentioned in my thread not long ago, I actually had an error in my 97 manual...and had to re-do the head bolts. These are the correct torque specs for the head bolts (copied from AJ's post):

You need the bolt order too though. I'll see if I can get an image of that in here later from Alldata.

The crank pulley is 37 lb ft, plus 120 degrees, when you put it back on.

Those specs ARE imperative, but not a whole lot else that I can think of that isn't common sense. Not to imply this job is easy :-P.

83CADMAN

12-23-13, 04:10 PM

93 L-Dawg, I pulled my N* out the top. It was a piece of cake! Cherry picker over the righr fender. Didnt even have to evac the A/C!
Studs are the way to go. My Caddy, a $500 dk gn 93 Concourse, cost to rerair, about 500 in parts and 300 in tools/equipment. Oh ya, GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR!!! Good luck.

93 L-Dawg

12-27-13, 06:57 PM

93 L-Dawg, I pulled my N* out the top. It was a piece of cake! Cherry picker over the righr fender. Didnt even have to evac the A/C!
Studs are the way to go. My Caddy, a $500 dk gn 93 Concourse, cost to rerair, about 500 in parts and 300 in tools/equipment. Oh ya, GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR!!! Good luck.

Ty guys, as I said before, my engine is locked up!!! What caused it? I have no clue, maybe from sitting before I purchased it who knows.
What I do know is the crank won't turn when I tried to manual turn it.

I only paid 600 3 years ago for it. No biggie, until I drop a battery in it and it wouldn't turn over again.

Basic I'm trying to save money by partial doing it my self. I'd rather try to save the engine by rebuilding it then to buy one at a junk yard.

Guidance on what I should do would be help-Ful,

Wish my dad was still livening, cause he would help me fix me:( I'm all alone on my project.
Ty guys
Happy holidays and happy New Years

stoveguyy

12-28-13, 01:31 PM

Drain the oil and see what comes out

93 L-Dawg

01-01-14, 08:34 PM

Drain the oil and see what comes out

Choc milk oil came out of it. Dumped the anti freeze , there was only pure water in it.

Ty stove guy

98eldo32v

01-01-14, 11:23 PM

That motor was tortured before it's demise.

If pure water came outer of the radiator, someone was driving that thing just trying to get by without purchasing antifreeze.

Chocolate milk is oil and water mixing.

The worst part is that it doesn't spin over freely turned by hand. That could be an issue with timing chains, pistons hitting valves that are opening, bent connecting rod, the list goes on.

If and when you get it out, you will have to tear the motor down to find out WHY it doesn't spin freely. Until then it's a guess.

I know you love that car and I don't know what shape it's in, but in my opinion even though they are getting harder to find, pick up another Eldorado that you KNOW that runs and shifts.

Take the two cars and make one perfectly good running car if time and space permits.

93 L-Dawg

01-02-14, 04:26 AM

That motor was tortured before it's demise.

If pure water came outer of the radiator, someone was driving that thing just trying to get by without purchasing antifreeze.

Chocolate milk is oil and water mixing.

The worst part is that it doesn't spin over freely turned by hand. That could be an issue with timing chains, pistons hitting valves that are opening, bent connecting rod, the list goes on.

If and when you get it out, you will have to tear the motor down to find out WHY it doesn't spin freely. Until then it's a guess.

I know you love that car and I don't know what shape it's in, but in my opinion even though they are getting harder to find, pick up another Eldorado that you KNOW that runs and shifts.

Take the two cars and make one perfectly good running car if time and space permits.

I know right :) I'm thinking about that as I found out Ty to the GM repair manual. It's Michigan history :) it was made in my State and shipped to Texas for sale :)

Guy that sells said to take no less then what I paid for it at 600, 1,000 no lower then that. It's pretty much clean inside and out.

I'm debating it for sure I hate to dump a project and not finish it.

98eldo32v

01-03-14, 06:42 AM

I know it's a bit of a tough decision, but you also have to look at what is possibly going to be the best outcome.

Your car is a 93. You're already having issues in your area finding a decent donor motor if needed for replacement. Not that one won't come along eventually, but when.

Unfortunately, you motor has "undisclosed" other issues.

Not that it can't be fixed, in actuality everything can be fixed but is it going to be "cost" effective in the long run? Only you can decide that. It's your car and you know the condition that it's in and how much is it worth to you.

93's are getting real scarce. Especially in good condition interior wise and body wise. Someone is looking for a car like yours with a motor issue that needs the transmission or interior and will pay the 6-1000 for the car just for the parts they can't acquire.

It's your call, but either way good luck.

Just think everything over before making the final decision....

93 L-Dawg

01-04-14, 12:48 AM

I know it's a bit of a tough decision, but you also have to look at what is possibly going to be the best outcome.

Your car is a 93. You're already having issues in your area finding a decent donor motor if needed for replacement. Not that one won't come along eventually, but when.

Unfortunately, you motor has "undisclosed" other issues.

Not that it can't be fixed, in actuality everything can be fixed but is it going to be "cost" effective in the long run? Only you can decide that. It's your car and you know the condition that it's in and how much is it worth to you.

93's are getting real scarce. Especially in good condition interior wise and body wise. Someone is looking for a car like yours with a motor issue that needs the transmission or interior and will pay the 6-1000 for the car just for the parts they can't acquire.

It's your call, but either way good luck.

Just think everything over before making the final decision....

I was on EBay last night and I found the motor for it. Granted its 750 to ship here, o well.

Then I ran across a 97 one with a head gasket problem. Starts white smoke coming out and the coolant stays low when you add to it.

I have all the head gaskets and head bolts here,

Do you Think I should buy the 97 and just pull the motor out and rebuild the heads sense I have the stuff for it? Body is clean on it like mines is anyways.

98eldo32v

01-04-14, 06:50 AM

I say 97 will be easier to source parts versus the 93.

Sell the 93, it's a hard pill to swallow, but make sure the 97 is in excellent shape interior and exterior wise.

Nothing is going to be perfect, but no major issues. Missing door trim panels, torn seats, etc.

If it does need something, let it be a commonly sourced part per se' even though these cars are getting scarce.

Pull the 97 motor via the top, as long as the transmission shifts.

Repair the bolt holes with the studs.

Reassemble, enjoy.......

97EldoCoupe

01-04-14, 11:08 AM

93 L-Dawg -

Jake here @ Northstar Performance

You need a 93/94 Engine. Those are the only two years that will fit without going through the work of changing cylinder heads, relocating or changing the knock sensor. You can build one with a newer bottom end, which has some advantages. But it must have 93/94 heads.

I can help you out if you need or I can refer you to a good competent shop.

Tony Huerta @ North Texas Performance (he knows his stuff) in Dallas, 214-724-3246. This guy is straight shooter, you will get treated fairly and the work will get done right. I've visited him and his shop not that long ago.

Tony also uses my stud kit on all Northstars he works on.

If you need advice, text me at 914-570-1741 or email info@northstarperformance.com

Thanks and best of luck 93 L-Dawg!

93 L-Dawg

01-04-14, 11:20 AM

I say 97 will be easier to source parts versus the 93.

Sell the 93, it's a hard pill to swallow, but make sure the 97 is in excellent shape interior and exterior wise.

Nothing is going to be perfect, but no major issues. Missing door trim panels, torn seats, etc.

If it does need something, let it be a commonly sourced part per se' even though these cars are getting scarce.

Pull the 97 motor via the top, as long as the transmission shifts.

Repair the bolt holes with the studs.

Reassemble, enjoy.......

Man that tranny on the 97 does not reverse!!!!
Lmao tranny needs to be rebuilt!!!! I say no deal!!! Found a 94 motor for 500 plus 250 shipping, think ill do that. My body and interior is clean,
I'd rather paint mines then to strip one that has good paint job!!!

98eldo32v

01-04-14, 03:01 PM

That's why I stated, make sure the car shifts in all gears.

It's bad enough you have to do head gaskets, but to add a bad transmission on top of it is insult to injury

93 L-Dawg

01-05-14, 02:56 AM

That's why I stated, make sure the car shifts in all gears.

It's bad enough you have to do head gaskets, but to add a bad transmission on top of it is insult to injury

Yup and my girl said the same thing, lmao, dude was like can you use it 4parts??? Lmaooo!!! Sure the tires that's it!!! My tranny is good, lmaooo!!!

Pays to know our stuff!!! I'm buy a motor and just do the heads when I get it :) 500 plus 250 to ship, the one I found in Tx want 850 plus the shipping lol!!! No good deal!!! It's coming out of the North!!! My kinda of area!!! Rusted body parts and Good engines!!!

I've got to get it ready cause I'm move back to the northwest!!!

Follow my heart and my girl is wait on me to come back to her :) that's a good women and I'm dumb for leavening. Older and wiser :)

----------

93 L-Dawg -

Jake here @ Northstar Performance

You need a 93/94 Engine. Those are the only two years that will fit without going through the work of changing cylinder heads, relocating or changing the knock sensor. You can build one with a newer bottom end, which has some advantages. But it must have 93/94 heads.

I can help you out if you need or I can refer you to a good competent shop.

Tony Huerta @ North Texas Performance (he knows his stuff) in Dallas, 214-724-3246. This guy is straight shooter, you will get treated fairly and the work will get done right. I've visited him and his shop not that long ago.

Tony also uses my stud kit on all Northstars he works on.

If you need advice, text me at 914-570-1741 or email info@northstarperformance.com

Thanks and best of luck 93 L-Dawg!

I did text you jake, but I guess your busy, if I get this right I could take a 95 north star and swap the heads off a 94 and it would work? I seen em go for 100. 200 for the heads, what would I do with the 95 heads once I swapped em? Could I sell em? 810-254-0124 is where you can reach me at Cameron
Ty jake

04GrandAmGT

01-08-14, 01:24 PM

I will make sure Jake calls you at around 12:30 central time thanks Cameron

93 L-Dawg

01-11-14, 12:56 AM

SAME DAY Shipping!!

These rebuild kits are designed to be a one-stop solution to your engine rebuilding needs. We believe these engine re-ring kits are the absolute BEST mix of price and quality available for stock and performance builds in the market today. We have personally used these rebuild kits in many rebuilds with outstanding results and durability. Every part in this kit is manufactured only by the HIGHEST quality manufacturing companys, with ISO, QS & TS quality systems in place. Part Manufacturers include Silvolite, King Bearings, Hastings, Clevite Company, Melling, ITM, Cloyes, Sealed Power, TopLine, and Federal Mogul. This guarantees maximum quality to the consumer, and to meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications!

These rebuild kits are designed to be a one-stop solution to your engine rebuilding needs. We believe these engine re-ring kits are the absolute BEST mix of price and quality available for stock and performance builds in the market today. We have personally used these rebuild kits in many rebuilds with outstanding results and durability. Every part in this kit is manufactured only by the HIGHEST quality manufacturing companys, with ISO, QS & TS quality systems in place. Part Manufacturers include Silvolite, King Bearings, Hastings, Clevite Company, Melling, ITM, Cloyes, Sealed Power, TopLine, and Federal Mogul. This guarantees maximum quality to the consumer, and to meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications!

I found this on e-bay tonight and I wanted to know if this could solve my issue for my motor?

Consider that mines is locked up, would this kit work in rebuilding it?

I know once I do it, my engine would be brand new,plus I know what I've put into it pre say.

I found a engine for 509 plus 250 to ship into Austin plus the shop said it would cost around 1,000 to check that motor out.

It sounds to me that I should just invest in this kit and rebuild mines with it this kit then??

I have my motor and I don't need to ship no place but to just pull the engine out of the car then.

Note I'm not doing it!!!

Any help on If I should just buy this kit? Or the motor and just rebuild the heads on the junk yard motor? Ty guys

93 L-Dawg

08-27-14, 10:41 PM

Just wanted you guys to know that I ditched the Lac and Austin,TX, Moved back to Seattle,WA and i just bought a 93 seville STS black with the same tan leather in it. Nothing is wrong with it. Ty guys for all your help.