Closed to traffic, this 3-block street in the center of Paris boasts some of the best bakeries (Stohrer, Boulanger de Monge), gourmet cheese and chocolate shops, historic restaurants, late-night cafes, and kitchen supply establishments. Etienne Marcel, Les Halles or Sentier metro stops will get you there. Check out the map on page 80, Walking Tour Five of your No Worries Paris guidebook and you’ll see what else to explore in the surrounds.

It’s the true center of Paris, before 1970, the sprawling home of the now dismantled Les Halles covered market. Sniffing and tasting your way down you’ll see old storefront vestiges remain. I’m certain you’ll want to return to this vibrant quartier more than once. A good excuse is Jean Charles Rochous Chocolatier (at no. 15) for silver boxes stuffed with heavenly dark chocolate truffles (best in Paris), great gifts for friends.

No Taco Bell crunch wraps, Cinnabon Delights, I-Hop cheesecake stuffed pancakes, Krispy Kreme sloppy joe sandwiches, but if you want to cheat, there’s a small Starbuck’s at one end.