Since France’s ‘organic’ fair Millesime Bio began in 1993, France and the rest of the winemaking world have come to embrace the gamut of holistic winemaking practices, from sustainability to organics and biodynamics. But how useful, actually, are they as separate disciplines? And do they have the staying power to be truly ‘sustainable’ longterm? Mike Turner, who was in Montpellier to judge this year’s medal winners, mulls over the big questions.