So I've been retro fitting this old bar I have. The lines are like brand new but the chickenloop was rusted and not working, depower line is shot, mini fifth is worn etc..I am going to change this from a two center line depower system to a single center line depower system and I need a few parts... where do you buy your DIY bar parts?

I like the Slingshot Bungee because it has small diameter loops. Its length unstretched has varied from 58cm to 64cm in ones I have bought.

You could use a Slingshot Choad ball as in the photo or a Naish universal swivel at the bottom of the front lines.

I modified the Best stopper in this photo but am not entirely happy with it when feeding line back out. Maybe the latest Best stopper would be better?

EDIT: The Switch bar has a 6mm hole through the below the bar swivel, which I consider to be a suitable minimum diameter to have a good chance of getting line connections to slide through reliably. The Best Redline bar in the photo has a 5mm dia. hole as standard and after measuring up the internal parts, I drilled it out to 6.3mm and made sure I flushed out any drilling residue.

I'm just showing what I did, not saying this is what anyone else should do. I wouldn't buy a Redline bar to convert to single front line flagging - I just happened to have one already.I bought the Switch bar with the intention of converting it.End of EDIT.

I use 2.5mm dyneema and make the loops with Brummell lock splices. One thing that helps the connections pass through the system is if you make the splice by passing the 2.5mm line through the loop on the end of the bungee as you make the splice. That reduces the overall 'diameter' to smaller than the normal loop/loop connection and it also slides through easier anyway. I use a 10cm tail on the 2.5mm and find that the line will be shortened by 1cm to 1.5cm when you internalise the tapered tail in the Brummell splice so I allow for 1.25cm shortening of the line, but it varies a bit.

You can also make an extra wrap through the loop like I did here at the bottom of the front line. I had to make the hole through the choad ball big enough for the front line to pass through, but needed to stop the bungee being pulled through the other way, so put the bungee between two lines so I could do the extra wrap where the yellow line was spliced through the front line loop.

It also helps to flare out the entrances that the line has to pass through. I tend to use a cone shaped stone in a Dremel.

It depends on what you prefer to use.

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Last edited by ronnie on Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

The ball at the y and the stopper to stop the bar from traveling all the way to the kite are what I am looking for... Saw one on an Ozone bar this weekend that would work but having difficulties trying to find a parts list and place to order them online.

I had no idea they used these in sailing. I ordered some from that shop in the UK. They actually ship via the post office so shipping was only 5 euros for 3-5 day shipping, really nice people to deal with. They were quick to respond to my emails.http://www.kitesurfing-shop.co.uk/

Switch Kites offer all their individual bar components for sale in one convenient place and at great prices. Their current bar system is a mini-5th line configuration with an above-the-bar depower cleating system, which I just love! No more below the bar or strap systems for me!

Furthermore, Switch is planning on releasing a new bar system this summer, which has been promoted to provide improved safety and control.....most likely through a single-line swivel. But best of all, all these new parts will be available for individual purchase to upgrade existing bars.