DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand and Ornament Storage

This DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand looks beautiful under your tree. AND, it works as ornament storage when you’re ready to pack the tree away. Yassss!

Today, I’ve got a quick build for you that pulls double-duty. Last week, I decided it was time to build the DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand I’ve wanted for years. So, I spent a couple days just trying to decide how to build it and make it collapsible. See, I hate storing big things that only get used once a year. But, then I finally realized, it doesn’t have to sit empty the rest of the year.

I happy danced all around the Living Room when I realized I could use that same box to store all of my Christmas Ornaments and decor once the tree came down. Holla!

I love how this DIY Christmas Tree Stand turned out, guys!

THIS POST MAY CONTAIN AFFILIATE LINKS. AFFILIATES HELPYOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS DELIVER FREE CONTENT. Make sure to always read the directions for any products or tools you use while building. Read the full disclaimer here.

DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Materials Needed

Quick Note: I deigned this box to sit under my artificial tree. Your tree may have less or more clearance between the limbs and the floor. You may need to adjust the design to fit your tree. ALSO, when using a live tree, you should line the inside with a waterproof, heavy duty bag or liner to protect the wood.

Bonus: Free Printable Plans for this Christmas Tree Stand are available for download at the end of the tutorial. 🙂

DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand – Build Steps

Step One

Step Two

Step Three

Cut your 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding to size.

Step Four

Use Glue and your Brad Nailer to attach the 20 1/2″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding to the 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s. Be careful, you want to attach the 1/2″ wide side to the 2×2, so that there is still room for the 1/4″ thick board and the Cove Moulding. Make sure the Moulding is flush with the pocket hole side of the 20 1/2″ long boards.

Attach the 20 1/2″ long Pine Moulding to the 20 1/2″ long 2×2. Make sure it sits even with the back of the 2×2 (pocket hole side).

Step Five

Once all 8 – 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s have Moulding attached, you can assemble the sides. Build 1 full side with 2 – 20 1/2″ long 2×2’s and 2 – 13 1/4″ long 2×2’s. Use glue and screws to assemble 2 full sides.

Using my Kreg Jig Pocket Holes and Screws to assemble the box frame.

Step Six

Now, use glue and screws to connect the 2 full sides with 2 – 20 1/2 long 2×2’s. Make sure that all of the pocket holes are facing the inside of the box. Finish the final side with the last 2 – 2×2’s, glue and screws.

Now that the full box is assembled, I’m gluing and nailing the shorter 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding to the frame.

Step Seven

Use Glue and Brad Nails to attach the 8 – 8 3/4″ long 1/2″ x 3/4″ Pine Moulding pieces to the short sides of the frame. Make sure they are flush with the back of the 2×2 and even with the longer 1/2″ x 3/4″ Moulding you attached earlier.

Applying glue to the 1/2″ x 3/4″ moulding before inserting the beadboard panel. The Beadboard panels sit on the 1/2″ x 3/4″ moulding.

Step Eight

Now the frame is assembled and the backing for your panel is in place. Just glue the beadboard, MDF, or plywood panel to your backing. Then frame the top of the panel with Cove Molding that has a 45-degree angle in the corners. Glue and Brad Nail the Cove Molding to the 2×2.

Using Titebond Glue and Nails to attach Cove Molding.

Step Nine

For the base, I attached 1 – 6″ long 2×2 to the middle of each side, with Glue and Screws. Make sure it is flush with the rest of the bottom of the frame, so that they sit directly on your floor and don’t have to support any weight. This is especially important with live trees with water that are so much heavier.

I used scrap 6″ long 2×2 blocks to support the 1/2″ thick plywood bottom. Be sure to attach the block level with the bottom of the box. You want the floor to hold the weight of the tree, not the block.

Step Ten

Glue and Nail your 1/2″ Base to the top of those 6″ supports.

Step Eleven

Fill the pocket holes and nail holes with wood filler. I used Dap’s Plastic Wood-X. Once the wood filler is dry, sand the frame and the wood filler smooth. Clean off all dust with a tack cloth or scrap cloth. You might want to start with a shop vac or brush might be needed on the beadboard first. 🙂

Long story short, the Kilz paint was a bit faster and easier to work with. But, both were great. For both paints, I skipped primer and just painted directly on the wood. I also skipped a clear coat with the Kilz Paint. That stuff is pretty stinkin’ easy to use, guys.

That’s it! You’re done. Enjoy you’re new box and ornament storage. 🙂

Don’t forget to Pin Me!

Hello, DIY friends! You can download the Christmas Tree Stand plans here. These plans are currently free to email subscribers and for personal use only. They cannot be shared or sold without my permission. Please let me know if you have any questions and enjoy your build! 🙂

Feeling inspired? Now you’re ready to build your own DIY Christmas Tree Box Stand. Let me know if you have questions. Don’t forget to sign up for the Abbotts At Home email newsletter to get DIY, Remodeling, and Crafty ideas in your inbox.

Thanks! I could never get a tree skirt to look right. I almost had to make a box. 😉

Comments are closed.

Hello friends!

Stephanie shares DIY Projects, woodworking plans, room makeovers, remodeling, and craft projects. Her posts focus on remodeling, decorating, or furnishing a home in a stylish and affordable way. Learn more about her here.
Be sure to subscribe to the newsletter to get the latest posts!

Get more stuff

Subscribe to our mailing list and get interesting stuff and updates to your email inbox.

I consent to my submitted data being collected via this form*

Thank you for subscribing.

Something went wrong.

we respect your privacy and take protecting it seriously

Grab Printable Build Plans

You can find all of my printable build plans for DIY Woodworking here!