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SVD48600PC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for SVD48600PC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.

bake function inoperable

always remeber the first thing to do when working on electric components turn off the breaker remove 2 screws securing the element, pull the element out enough to view the wire terminal attached to element and remove with needle nose plirers ,apply to new element ,replace screws

Would Only Heat To 285 F After An Hour

Simply unscrewed two screws holding the old element and replaced it with the new one. Note, of course I had to disconnect the wires that plugged into the back. Really easy and quick, less than $50 total for an that would cost over $2200 today.

Dried out seal

The repair did not happen as the seal was much larger (fat) than pictured. The one inch graph paper indicated the seal was 1/2 inch wide, which was the exact measurement of existing seal, but when it came it was closer to a full inch wide (fat)? This was my last hope as no one else has the right one either!

Oven would not heat

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

The repair for the glass on the inner door of the oven was very straight forward and easy. All I did was remove the door from the oven and then systematically took apart the door. I did not have any schematics, but if you just look at it you can figure out what you need to do. Once apart I had to use pliers to bend the metal that was holding the glass in place and then I simply installed the new one and put everything back together. The whole process took maybe 20-45 minutes from start to finish. Now I can bake a Turkey for Thanksgiving...YEAH!!

burned oven bulb

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.Everthing works like a charm now.

F1-1 and F3-1 error code

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Housekeper broke knob several years ago and left that burner out of service.

I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.