Approach

Drive up the dirt road past the South Face trailhead roughly 3/4 of a mile to the next trailhead on the right. Park in the pull-out. Hike steadily uphill (about 1 mile) to the base of the rock. You will be directly below the route.

Route Description

This is truly one of the finest routes in the state. In fact, one could argue that it is THE finest 5.8 in North Carolina. The superb, bomber rock, incredible exposure and unparalleled views combine to make the Nose an unforgettable climb.

P1: Climb a run-out granite slab to a stance just below the white intrusion that angles up and right. Roughly 40 meters, 5.5
P2: Here comes the fun....climb up and right on the white intrusion for about 50 meters. Great gear, great exposure and excellent climbing. 5.8
P3: Straight up from the belay to a scoop/dish feature in the rock. This large feature, called the "Parking Lot", is a great belay location and gives good views of the surrounding forest. Approx. 35-40 meters, 5.8
P4: Straight up on eyebrows and slab to the top!! 30 meters, 5.6-5.7

All the belay stances are at bolt anchors.

Descent: Rap from stations to the base of the route. A few years ago, concerned climbers installed a very nice series of rappel stations that are off to the climber's right of the route. Previously, the only way down was to rap the route, which often resulted in dropping ropes on parties who were ascending. Please use the new rappel anchors when descending.

Essential Gear

Two 50 meter ropes will get you up and down. If you like half ropes, use those. You might be able to lessen a little rope drag. But as I recall, you will want the two ropes for the rappel.

Rack: Standard rock rack to a #1 Camalot. Tri-cams and TCU's are useful (especially the smallest pink Tri-cam). May want to double up on the TCUs/Aliens.

A helmet is a good idea as lots of parties climb this route and you never know if someone is going to drop something (chock, cam, water bottle) on your head. The rock is super-solid, though, so there is little danger of dislodging loose rock.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

"And isn't sanity really just a one-trick pony anyway? I mean all you get is one trick, rational thinking, but when you're good and crazy, ooh ooh ooh, the sky is the limit!"
--The Tick