GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

Comments

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3L it has 71,000 miles on it and it idles ruff when i come to a stop light and sputters when i take off. I have no idea what the problem is and it is very frustrating!! any suggestions on what to do or what it is?

Last night while in cruise control the "service 4WD" message came on and the indicators lights on the select buttons all went out. Truck drove OK and stayed in 2WD but I could not change into Auto or 4WD. Let set overnight and it seemed to have "rebooted" and was fine this morning. Anyone else had this happen? Will have dealer check next time in. Also, still have clunking in drive train. Not sure if it is in the transmissin, drive shaft, rear end? My 01 did the same thing. Noise is more pronounce on light acceleration. Ideas? I saw the Sierras were supposed to be recalled with a brake problem. I called dealer and they didn't know anything about it.

Something I am finding annoying is the dash button that controls whether outside air is circulated in the cab or not does NOT remember it's setting from one start to another LIKE IT DID in my 01' Sierra. It always defaults to letting outside air in. This wouldn't normally be a problem unless you're behind a diesel cement truck or near a dead skunk first thing in the morning on the way to work which occurs on a daily basis. It's not until you realize this and the cab is full of diesel exhaust and you push the button to lock all that lovely exhaust in the cab.

But seriously, this is really annoying. Why did they change this behavior? More importantly, how do I fix it so it remembers between starts OR how can I get it to default to closed (no outside air circulation).

I had a similar thing happen (service AWD) on my 00 shortly after buying it new. It turned out to be a defective electrical connector at the transmission or transfer case. At that time the dealer said it was a common problem. BTW I still have the clunking drive train too.

The one thing that the Japanese do that Detroit doesn't is correct the root cause of the problem, as in the manufacturing process, etc. With Detroit they only fix the problems as they break but never figure why. That's the reason you may still have the same problem on an 04. With GM there must be no communications between dealer service and factory design people.

When Toyota gets to 70% market share maybe they'll figure it out. There is no reason why GM and others can't do it better in the USA.

My 2002 GMC had similar problem. There is a TSR out calling for removal, special lubrication on steering shaft, and reinstall. Dealer was aware of issue and fixed it promptly (after I brought copy of TSR to them). Look up "Steering Noises".

I'm having the same trouble with 3800 miles. The service manager told me that he knew what it was, but no fix in place yet. I was in a hurry and didn't press for more info but will check back if I can remember to call tomorrow. The clunking isn't bad, yet, but it is annoying considering it is a new truck. Otherwise, I love the truck. Just switched from owning a Ford.

Thanks, I will suggest that to the dealer when I bring it in. Overall I have been happy with it. I looked at the Toyotas but felt I got much more truck for less money. And there was no comparison for space in the back of the cab between the two. My son in college has room to be comfortable back there. Good luck with your truck.

I have a 99' Sierra with 90K miles. The problem is after the engine warms up to an acceptable operating temperature, underneath the dash/glove box on the passenger side it sounds like boiling water when I accelerate?

It only does it when I accelerate from a slow rate of speed or from a dead stop? Has anyone ever heard of this type of problem? The temperature guage is reading normal? Could this be a heater core problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

my service 4WD light comes on intermittently. My truck is a 99, problem seems to be the selector switch on dash. each position has a resistor that allows different voltage signal to transfer case module. Bad info from a chilton manual told me to change the front diff actuator. we'll see if they reply to my letter because I cant return a electrical item to the dealer so I installed it anyway. I agree, GM needs to fix the theory behind the application instead of each occurence.

We have a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel and just got it back from the dealer for the same problem. It has 90,000 miles and we noticed a leak that we thought was coming from the rear diff. After inspection at the dealer they said that a pump in the transfer case had failed and wore a small hole in the transfer case housing. There is a small spring on one ear of the pump that broke and allowed the pump to wear a hole in the housing. Sounds like a bad design to me. The dealer said that it had probably lost all the fluid within the first 5 miles that we drove it and caused all the bearings to freeze up on the shafts and had to replace the entire transfer case. To make matters worse, we had to wait 4 weeks for the transfer case because they are on national backorder and the manufacturer is having to find cores and rebuild them. We think that there is a huge problem with these transfer cases and GM is not letting anyone know. We would like to hear from anyone who has had this same problem. If we can get enough proof maybe some of us can get some reimbursement.

I know this is a reply to a very old question, but I've just bought a '99 Sierra and found the same clunk, thud or squawk (whatever you want to call it) coming from the rear end when I come to a complete stop and then again when I take my foot off the brake and start to accelerate. Did you ever find a solution to this? Thanks in advance.

Temp controler will turn heat up or on but will not lower the temp or turn off. It will sometimes reset to the cold or off position after the ignition is turned off then engine restarted. Any ideas what the culprit might be? Control switch, electrical or maybe control motor? Any help appreciated.2001 Gmc Sierra

97 Z71, 4WD....Just before I stop, the front ABS makes a roaring sound, the pedal gets hard and kind of feels jerky. The truck doesn't feel like it will stop in time. If I press hard or quickly pump, I can get it to stop. It's intermittent and scary. Is this a simple fix like cleaning something or am I in for major work?

I just bought a 2005 gmc sierra with the 5.3 l. It was a 4 door, 1500. Today, it caught on fire and burned almost completely up. The fire marshall seemed to think that it was caused by an electrical short somewhere in the dash. What would you do and has anyone else had a similar problem.

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 liter V8 and 39,000 miles on it. Found out last week that the head gasket on the passenger side of the motor has failed. I was wondering if any other Sierra owners have had a similar problem?

Call GMC customer service and file a complaint. They will perform their own inspection and if they determine the "thermal event" was due to a defect, GM will repurchase the vehicle from you. I went through this process over a year ago for a different GM model.

I did and so far no response back. What if they determine otherwise. I mean I know how they try to get out of trying to help out the little man. I have my insurance company involved for the rental. What happened in your case. Thanks

One of the trucks in my company's fleet caught on fire last year. I was actually surprised with how it all turned out. Like you, I was expecting them to deny my claim.

It was not a fast process. In summary, after I had called in my complaint to GM, I had to have it moved to a dealer. An inspector for GM came out to inspect it. They decided to repurchase it. Filled out the paperwork and got a check.

Again, this was not a fast process. If I remember correctly it took over a month and there were a lot of phone calls involved. Each step of the way I had to speak with a different person and different department within GM. Another colleague of mine had a similar experience with a Ford.

I did have to wait a few days before getting the initial call back. They should have given you a reference or claim number. I had to call about once a week for a status update.

You may want to ask your insurance adjuster if they have any advice or tips for you. Good luck and let us know how it all turns out.

ABS responds to pedal pressure and the impending lockup of a brake. If you're hard on the whoa pedal in an empty pickup, you can invoke ABS at almost any speed - the unloaded rear end of an empty bed will get to near-lockup much sooner than a balalnced or loaded rear end.

My 98 Sierra driver side door seems to be out of adjustment. When I open the door it rubs on the door post. It's actually worn the post flat on the top. I tried moving the post, but when I loosened it, it wouldn't really move in any direction. Any ideas?

Also try putting a floor jack with a wood board under the door edge at the outside latch / handle side. Jack it up putting pressure on it until it puts it back in position. Doesn't take much pressure to put it back in position.

i have an engine misfire problem i changed out the wires and put in new plugs so only thing it could be is the coil is there any way other than spendin 85 bucks to have it in the shop hooked to a computer to find out wich cyclinder is not working?