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Fry the beignets until puffed and brown Pinch off the excess dough and massage the beignet with your fingertips to be sure all holes are closed and the seams are tight. Roll the beignet between your hands to smooth. Set the beignet on the floured baking sheet. Continue until all the centers are wrapped. If the dough starts to soften or rise too much while you're working, put everything in the freezer for a few minutes to chill. When the oil registers 350°F on a thermometer, start frying, adding just a few beignets at a time. The beignets will float, so gently press them down with a spoon or a spider so they brown evenly. Put the milk and vanilla bean in a medium, heavy- based saucepan and bring to just below a simmer. Turn off the heat and leave to infuse, about 20 min. Put the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl and immediately whisk until pale yellow and thick enough to leave a ribbon trail when you lift the whisk. Reheat the milk gently until it's just starting to steam. Slowly pour about half of it into the yolks, whisking constantly. Pour this mixture back into the rest of the milk and cook over very low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard just begins to thicken slightly and you can trace a line across the back of the spoon. Strain into a clean bowl or pitcher; chill and serve cool. Mint-Rinse and dry a small bunch of fresh mint and add it to the milk and vanilla; heat and steep for about 20 min., strain, and then continue with the recipe. Coffee-Add 2 tsp. instant coffee to the milk and vanilla and then continue with the recipe. Caramel-Increase the sugar to 8 Tbs. Start by putting 5 Tbs. of the sugar in a saucepan and cooking it over medium heat until caramelized, shaking frequently to prevent burning. When the sugar is dark amber and fragrant, carefully add the milk and vanilla. Stir until the caramel is dissolved. Bring to a simmer; turn off the heat and infuse 20 min. Continue with the recipe, using only the remaining 3 Tbs. of sugar with the egg yolks. Rocco Lugrine is the executive pastry chef at Brasserie Perrier in Philadelphia. • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 1999 Fry until deep golden brown, about 4 minutes, and drain on paper towels. Serve hot, dusted with confectioners' sugar. Delicious solo, these beignets also love to soak up a sauce, like a creme anglaise or a light fruit coulis.