Here is the formula that many good climbers i know, and myself, use to determine how much climbing you should be doing each day, "the point system". (for sport climbing)

Your Goal is always 7 points per day

if you are a 5.12 climber (have climbed at least five 5.12's or a 12b or harder):

Every 5.12 = 1.5 points Every 5.11 = 1 point Every 5.10 = 0.5 points

to get the points for "doing" a route, you just need to do all the moves on it and get to the top, you don't need to redpoint it. Here is an example of a typical day for a 5.12 climber: warm-up: -two 5.10's and one 5.11 = 2

project: -two tries on project 5.12c = 3

more climbing: -5.12a = 1.5

cool-down: -5.11 = 1

this would be a 7.5 point day for the 5.12 climber, and thus very good.

the scale varries depending on how hard you climb:

5.11 climber: 5.11 = 1.5 points 5.10 = 1 point 5.9 = 0.5 points

5.13 climber: 5.13 = 1.5 points 5.12 = 1 point 5.11 = 0.5 points

Just remember to try to get 7 points or more per day and to have fun doing it!

fiend, i heard about this system last summer in Rifle, alot of good climbers were all using it,and YES you want to try to get at least 7 points EVERY climbing day, but if you can get more, say 9 or 10, dude, all the power to you, but try to always get at least 7.

brogan, i am seeing my doctor August 23rd and he will hopefully give me the 'ok' to start climbing again, so i'm going to be CRRRRRAAAAAAAAANKING SOON!!!! untill then, i did go climbing on saturday with one foot, i did a really steep 5.13a/b with only one foot. but because i only had one foot, i had to campus the crux and it is probably 13c or d. really cool and really fun, i was psyched.

fiend, i am FAT right now, i just realized!!! yuk. but for sure i'll be climbing in Ontario a whole bunch before i go on the road again (IF i go on the road again, that is SO SO SO far away, it's hard to imagine. i am SO broke, and need to make some money SOON).

about climbing with one foot, if you could climb 5.11, do you think that climbing 5.10's with one foot would be hard? it's all relative right. please don't hate me (smile). when i hurt my other knee three years ago, i did Thursting Skull 12c in Kentucky with one foot, i was way more proud of that, then i am of climbing 5.13- one footed now, because back then 12d was my hardest two-foot redpoint.

True in cases like this where the merit of the question transcends the age of the thread. However it's probably good practice for whoever raises the dead to acknowledge that they realize they've created a zombie. Otherwise they just appear clueless.

True in cases like this where the merit of the question transcends the age of the thread. However it's probably good practice for whoever raises the dead to acknowledge that they realize they've created a zombie. Otherwise they just appear clueless.

Actually, I specifically responded because there is very little merit in seeking out 11 year old fad training advice. There is certainly a 'right' amount of climbing for optimum performance, but what that is varies per individual, training style, and performance goals. Additionally, it was quickly evident that none of the original posters are active on the site, nor is it likely that this was ever popular outside of Rifle for a single season.

[quote "manboy"]Here is the formula that many good climbers i know, and myself, use to determine how much climbing you should be doing each day, "the point system". (for sport climbing)

Your Goal is always 7 points per day

if you are a 5.12 climber (have climbed at least five 5.12's or a 12b or harder):

Every 5.12 = 1.5 points Every 5.11 = 1 point Every 5.10 = 0.5 points

to get the points for "doing" a route, you just need to do all the moves on it and get to the top, you don't need to redpoint it. Here is an example of a typical day for a 5.12 climber: warm-up: -two 5.10's and one 5.11 = 2

project: -two tries on project 5.12c = 3

more climbing: -5.12a = 1.5

cool-down: -5.11 = 1

this would be a 7.5 point day for the 5.12 climber, and thus very good.

the scale varries depending on how hard you climb:

5.11 climber: 5.11 = 1.5 points 5.10 = 1 point 5.9 = 0.5 points

5.13 climber: 5.13 = 1.5 points 5.12 = 1 point 5.11 = 0.5 points

Just remember to try to get 7 points or more per day and to have fun doing it!

[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-13 14:45 ][/quote]

This looks a lot like a training routine Hans Florine described in a video I saw roughly 11 years ago. Was related to climbing the Nose in a day if I remember correctly.