I really, really like EEuroparts.com. They've got every bit of the selection of FCP, they've never gotten an order wrong, their customer service is far superior to FCP, and they have free shipping on any order over $50.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by turbotankshane

If its a solid stage 0, +t it. If it aint, +t it anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxman51

easiest way to run 11's is to build a 9 second car and turn it down a little.

Rock Auto has (at times) an outer tie rod for the 200, 700, 900's made by Spicer (as in Dana-Spicer) in the USA. Cost is around $7-8 each and they have a zirc fitting for greasing. I get them 6 at a time when they have them.

I will just add this remark as an update to 1 of the parts addresses mentioned. D Waltrip Volvo, would not ship a part I ordered and the reason was given that they would not be shipping any parts after November 1, 2012. The part I ordered was listed in their parts roster; thats the only reason i even ordered a part from a dealer. It was the automatic shift indicator that mounts to the floor of my 1987 245 DL wagon. Couldn't find one anywhere else, so I tried to order one from DW; FAILED!!

btw.....I am still looking for this shift indicator if anyone has one for sale or knows where one is, cheap...

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Designer of Wheelchair accessible Trikes for motorcycle accident victims; who are confined to wheelchairs and are seeking a more suitable type of Mobility that is in tune to their lifestyle....

I would like to add that another great place for B230 parts in the Sacramento area is SVS Volvo. They always have the oem parts I need (seals, gaskets, tie rods, etc.) Also right next to them is SVS R&D and SVS Muffler.

Smith Volvo is generally worthless but Tim at the parts desk is the best parts man I've ever seen. A large volvo aftermarket company in oregon gets all their oem parts there. That should be a good hint. http://www.smithvolvo.com/parts/index.htm

Glad I found this thread. My son and I just started on a restoration project yesterday...we're gonna need some parts to turn two '83 245 GLT wagons into ONE good one. As I was looking at both cars, I was wondering where the best place was to get parts; threads like this are a great help.

Thank you!!! Having a new adoptee - combined with the fact that our only local import parts supplier closed - I found your list an awesome starting place for parts. I have (fortunately) located a mechanic who will let me (when practical) obtain parts BUT he's made very clear - HE is not warranting the parts...so any failure means I'll pay labor again if a part fails.

Uh - do any of these suppliers offer any discounts? Free shipping? I just found the following codes - from either other forum/s or Internet search - FCP: 10%, code MVSCC; Volvo Wholesale Parts 10% code MVS, 10% code thankyou. eEuro Orders over $99 5% code MVS. Note: I have NOT verified any of these...yet

Uh - do any of these suppliers offer any discounts? Free shipping? I just found the following codes - from either other forum/s or Internet search - FCP: 10%, code MVSCC; Volvo Wholesale Parts 10% code MVS, 10% code thankyou. eEuro Orders over $99 5% code MVS. Note: I have NOT verified any of these...yet

Most suppliers have promotions running frequently I usually google coupon codes for a supplier before ordering to see what promotions are going on.

To all: I will update the OP with the last few suggestions tomorrow. Thanks for your contributions.

Center support bearing for the larger diameter driveshaft (type 3 I believe) found on my M47 unsure of other applications but for sure all with the rubber guibo at the tranny end.
FCP Euro P/N MTC 183265 at $16.99 is best deal however I found this in stock at a local bearing house so no waiting to ship in or freight added. It's a

Nachi 6009-2NSE9 $23.00 equivalent to

Timken 109FF- $61.99 at AutoZone which they did not have in stock, Advance website was unhelpful at best. Specs from Autozone site.

Their prices on headlights is really, really low. Can anyone say what the quality is? I'm looking for 1992 740 headlights.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jack8745

I know it's hard to believe that someone wants (on turbobricks) to make things work the right way. My extensive search shows this hasn't happened since 2005 when there was a ziptie shortage and Tbrickers were forced to buy and use the correct parts

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lord_Athlon

This is the only forum in existence where people get mad that their cars are worth more than 500

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnnysalt

I don't know how to do anything, help! Whats the quickest easiest dumbass proof way to fix this besides taking it to someone who knows how?

Center support bearing for the larger diameter driveshaft (type 3 I believe) found on my M47 unsure of other applications but for sure all with the rubber guibo at the tranny end.
FCP Euro P/N MTC 183265 at $16.99 is best deal however I found this in stock at a local bearing house so no waiting to ship in or freight added. It's a

Nachi 6009-2NSE9 $23.00 equivalent to

Timken 109FF- $61.99 at AutoZone which they did not have in stock, Advance website was unhelpful at best. Specs from Autozone site.

Moog & NAPA used to be at LEAST decent quality; sometimes good bits. NAPA still does have some good stuff- but its more sketchy than years ago. LOTS of Chinese caca in jobber supplied "tools".

Moog was at one time top drawer stuff. Maybe they still are in some circles; but I just yesterday can say that at least the closest NAPA has ZERO ball joints; Moog or otherwise THAT ARE GREASEABLE- for 700/900's; not Moog or anyone else.
I've indeed become even more jaded that not one ebay seller- nor an unskilled search of ANYWHERE even makes them. PLEASE PROVE MY SEARCH SKILLS WRONG?

If anyone knows of a new ball joint design that isn't a sealed unit design; meaning I can get the ball and socket apart without ruining it; I'm going to hopefully, unless the socket os just too hardened to be accepting of a tiny grease path ground in...

Idealistic? I'd rather take a few extra minutes and be able to wash away wear flotsam away with fresh grease; wipe out old grease with fresh and reduce friction WON time. Beats ball joint replacing over and over, but I don't REALLY know if carbide would wilt in cutting grooves. Surely it's not that stout; anyone know if a groove is feasible; or which even can be taken apart?

Moog & NAPA used to be at LEAST decent quality; sometimes good bits. NAPA still does have some good stuff- but its more sketchy than years ago. LOTS of Chinese caca in jobber supplied "tools".

Moog was at one time top drawer stuff. Maybe they still are in some circles; but I just yesterday can say that at least the closest NAPA has ZERO ball joints; Moog or otherwise THAT ARE GREASEABLE- for 700/900's; not Moog or anyone else.
I've indeed become even more jaded that not one ebay seller- nor an unskilled search of ANYWHERE even makes them. PLEASE PROVE MY SEARCH SKILLS WRONG?

If anyone knows of a new ball joint design that isn't a sealed unit design; meaning I can get the ball and socket apart without ruining it; I'm going to hopefully, unless the socket os just too hardened to be accepting of a tiny grease path ground in...

Idealistic? I'd rather take a few extra minutes and be able to wash away wear flotsam away with fresh grease; wipe out old grease with fresh and reduce friction WON time. Beats ball joint replacing over and over, but I don't REALLY know if carbide would wilt in cutting grooves. Surely it's not that stout; anyone know if a groove is feasible; or which even can be taken apart?

You do realize that with a greasable balljoint, there is the ability to introduce MORE dirt into the joint, right?? There is nothing wrong with sealed units, and I'm sure the Moog sealed units will last just as long as OEM. They are also designed to retain teir greas ebetter than a greasable joint, which allows for slightly better control of tolerances. They're still built to high quality standards.