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I just realized the title of this post is a little misleading. This is a new dress, made from a new(ish) pattern. I’m fairly certain that even the fabric is somewhat new. I’m calling it vintage because of the colorway and the overall look of the finished piece 🙂 Just so we’re clear!!

ANYWAY, meet my new favorite dress, y’all!

This is McCall’s 5972, which is Laura Ashley pattern. Funny, I actually bought this dude a few years ago with the intention on making view C, with those ridiculous neck ruffles. Spoiler: I still haven’t managed view C. But I have made view B twice – once in a gorgeous purple lambswool (pre-blog, so no pictures – but I wear it frequently in the winter!), and then this piece you’re looking at right now.

The fabric is a bit special, only because it’s fucking GORGEOUS and I had the tiniest piece. I found it at the flea market over the summer, although I don’t think it’s vintage – it’s a Waverly print (says so right on the selvage) and it’s definitely upholstery fabric. I would not be surprised at all if this is a print that they are currently selling at Joann’s. However, that doesn’t make it any less amazing, amirite.

I’m really surprised that I was able to get this much dress out of the fabric. Like I said, my piece was pretty small – I think I had about a yard and a half, but it was only 35″ wide (I suspect it was 60″ at some point, as there was only one edge with a selvage. Also, holy shit I am abusing these parenthesis today). I initially wanted to make a wiggle dress, but I knew there was no way in hell I’d have enough fabric. I barely squeezed this one out as it was – I cut everything on a single layer. Almost all the pieces are cut on the fold, which meant I had to do a lot of flipping and tracing. It was worth it, though! I even had enough to cut the collar, although I did have to slice it on the center back seam since there wasn’t enough fabric to do it in once piece. I’m so pleased with my fabric stinginess!

I know the belt that I’m wearing here doesn’t really match. Shh! I plan on making a self-covered belt (I should have just enough fabric to pump one out), but I need to buy belt backing.

I made this dress entirely with stash stuff! The lining is china silk. I usually prefer to line with Bemberg Rayon – I think it feels so freaking luxurious, even better than silk! – but this stuff actually matched perfectly. And, surprisingly, it was easier to sew than the rayon. Imagine that.

I did have a bit of an issue with the fit. As I said before, this is the second time I’ve used this pattern. The first dress fits wonderfully, just the way I like it. For this reason, I did not make a muslin. I don’t know what happened between the pattern and the first finished dress, but there is definitely a size discrepancy – and I’m not really sure what I did to make it fit (other than, you know, NOT ALTERING THE PATTERN TISSUE), since it was finished so long ago and I didn’t leave my future self any notes. Thankfully, I’m a bit of a stickler when it comes to fit – I try on my stuff frequently as I go, just to be sure there aren’t any little surprises waiting at the end. I caught this right before I put the zipper in. I ended up taking in the zipper side seam by quite a bit – 1 3/4″ at the bodice, 1 1/2″ at the waist, tapering down to nothing by the hip. I may need to go back and deepen the darts on the front skirt; they bag out a bit because I guess I don’t quite fill it out. So weird!

I only made a couple of construction changes to the pattern:
– The finishing calls for bias binding at the armholes. NOPE, SORRY. I pulled out my Rooibos pattern and followed the instructions for inserting the bodice lining – and it worked! No handstitching here, and it looks much cleaner 🙂
– The collar does not call for interfacing. I decided to underline mine with some of my precious silk organza. Ah. I love silk organza ♥
– I inserted a lapped, hand-picked zipper instead of the invisible dude. So pretty and sleek and yay!
– Due to aforementioned fabric shortages, the underside of the collar is china silk (same as the bodice lining), instead of self-fabric.

Ignore that belt and imagine this with something more, er, matching.

Here’s that handpicked zipper! See the stitches? NEITHER DO I.

Probably should have stuck a zipper guard in there. Oh well, no care!

I took a few extra steps to make this special – including binding the waist seam.

And this lace hem is super happy 🙂

You know what else this dress looks super good with?

Wait for it…

THAT DAMN AGATHA CARDIGAN, YEEEEAH!!

Seriously, tho, let’s talk about how this is a fucking match made in Heaven.

You probably noticed Amelia lurking on the serger table during all these pictures. That is basically what she does the entire time I’m in the sewing room (unless she’s napping on top of my pattern. Or fabric. Or scissors), and the reason why I moved my sewing machine to be away from the window. Her big butt was always in the way!

I agree with Peter. I am actually old enough to remember when everyone wore sheath dresses. No one wore a belt, not even Audrey or Marilyn. But maybe you feel like you should? I think it looks great on you, and it is a beautiful dress.

I have a question for you, if you could possibly help? I noticed that you said, “I may need to go back and deepen the darts on the front skirt; they bag out a bit because I guess I don’t quite fill it out.” I made a shirt and the bust darts “bag out” – does this mean I need to deepen the dart then?

This dress if fabulous and does look vintage. I swear you always find the best shit at the flea market! Looks great with that cardigan too. Really makes me want to start knitting but I don’t know if I have the patience for it.

Love it!! It totally has a 60s vibe I think! And so meant to be with Agatha. See, I knew I was right in thinking yellow is a great neutral. This is why I’ve knit 3 yellowish sweaters. I could see this dress with a pop of red to. I’m totally loving that collar, and I think it’s kind of genius that it’s the lining underneath, even if it was out of fabric stinginess!

(I want to know more of this Rooibos armhole thing instead of bias binding.)

love, love, love! this dress is fantastic, i adore the giant floral print. and i agree with the “skip the belt comments.” i love the mustard cardigan with it too, funny how that color goes with everything!

The dress looks great! Its always nice when you can eek out a pattern from a small piece of fabric. I was going to comment on how hilarious it was that your cat ignored you in every photo but the first one, hilarious.

So doing that jealous weeping thing right now. I’ve got some amazing Hawaiian cotton that’s begging to be made into a sheath dress, but it requires me to grade up a bodice and re-draft a skirt because the one it comes with isn’t right. And I have a wedding dress to make. I’ve got a moratorium on all other sewing projects until that’s complete.

But, oh, man! Want!

(And for the record, I actually love the belt you’re wearing. It breaks up the print a bit.)

I am, but not without great effort! I don’t function too well in a messy house (especially a messy sewing room!), so I make it a point to clean up after myself after every sewing session. Of course, messes still happen… and stay… and you should see my fabric shelf, because it is NOT neat (on second thought, no, please don’t look at it ahaha).

Erhmehgerrrrd I LOVE IT. Yay to fabric stinginess! It is a great gift 😀
Interested in your love for Bemberg rayon…I’ve not had much luck finding it around these parts (the Land Down Under)…everywhere only has China silk – which isn’t even silk. Boo. So I line things with cotton sheets. Yep. Doesn’t work for slinky things obviously.

I love everything you make! Every time I see something new on your blog, I add the pattern you used to my wishlist. 🙂 I’m also awed by how many garments you churn out. As soon as this semester is over, I’m sitting down at my sewing table and banging out a new dress!

Wow this is amazing. Divinely, drool-worthy, jealousy inducing amazing. And it looks great with Agatha! I need to find my equivalent of mustard to go with everything I wear. But bloody hell woman, you are so freaking talented.

first of all, your craft space is always so neat and tidy (and cute, of course)

more importantly – this dress is the shiz! who cares if the fabric isn’t technically vintage, it really does have a vintage feel and i’m totally impressed that you got that entire dress out of a 36″ wide tiny bit of fabric! love this dress!

You have some mad sewing skillz! Love the dress! I think you should try a skinny gold metal belt with it; you might like it. Never would have even thought to use home dec fabric. I will be checking them out from now on. I just thought I’d mention that because i’m skittish about cutting up my tissue patterns I trace mine with tracing paper from the artist supply; I buy it by the roll. This makes me feel better about altering my pattern.

Hm, I think the only disadvantage would be the pattern limitations for using home dec fabric – like, you can’t make anything that requires a drapey/flowy fabric, or anything with a lot of gathers (as it would be way too stiff). Something structured like a sheath dress or pencil skirt, or something that would benefit from the weight/thickness of the fabric, like a circle skirt – those would be perfect. The other disadvantage is you have to pay attention to the size of the print – since a lot of home dec fabric has a very large scale print, it might not be appropriate for a garment (or you would have to pick a pattern that had as few pieces as possible, to keep from cutting up the print).

I prefer to use garment fabric whenever possible, but sometimes you see stuff in the home decor section that has way too awesome of a print to pass up!

I’m sooooo late to the party, you’ll have to expect that from me I’m hopeless, that aside, what a perfect dress, perfect fabric, perfect finish, perfect Agatha and the most purrrfect companion. Everything is just… perfect.

It’s gorgeous! The fabric is perfect for that style. The fit is just lovely and everything looks so crisp and clean. You did such an amazing job with your handpicked zipper, too. Love the dress and your pretty cat! 🙂

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[…] Completed: McCall’s 5972, The Vintage Floral Sheath from Lladybird Another *loved* project from Lladybird. Maybe she should just start making two of everything so I can have one? I love the retro lines on this dress. […]