Wednesday, October 7, 2009

In Germany, Riesling is king. The reasons are very straightforward: it produces wines of utmost complexity and transparency, with soaring acidity gracefully balanced to intense mineral and fruit, often with floral notes; as it ages, it can take on a softer, honeyed character that matches beautifully to its acidity (and this acidity is what allows Riesling to age so well, often for decades); and finally, because it is one of the great unsung food wines, always in a niche, though why that is I cannot comprehend. Haunting and glorious - these two words sum up how I feel about Riesling.

Hailing from the upper Nahe region, a single-parcel bottling from a side valley in Rheingrafenberg quartzite soil, this gem is one of a series of wines being produced by a new producer, whose credo (literally "QUALITÄT IST UNSERE OBERSTE MAXIME," on the website) has driven him to incredibly high standards, despite the fact that this wine is technically only a QbA (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiet, the lower tier of quality German Riesling). Superb clarity in the glass, with a golden straw color. On the nose, it balances delightful fresh citrus zest, nectarine, and floral notes to stony minerality. This leads to a shimmering cascade of intense peach fruit in the mouth, springy acidity, proceeding in turn to a clean lemony finish. Very forward, much bigger than the price at $19.