Let's get this out of the way...
Yes I am a girl and yes the FJR is heavy for me on side hill stops-

Not to be one who is EVER easily deterred, I wanted to check in to see if any of you have used a Kouba Link on the FJR or any other lowering trick?

With the Kouba Link, my concerns is changing the way the bike handles, because it is perfect IMHO and rides like a dream and I don't want to interfere with the handling. I have a friend who added a Kouba Link to a BMW 1100GS, a very tall bike and it has had no impact to the bikes performance- Apples and oranges..duh

The other option I have is slightly modifying the seat, I only need about a 1/2 inch to be flat footed
So I could modify the padding or if one of you know of any other lowering trick, do tell.

The plastic piece that we can move under the seat to raise the sitting position, can it be removed totally and generate an potential lowering?

I'm kinda shocked the hounds haven't pee'd all over this post yet..
Not sure about the Kouba link or any other for that matter but I do know there are several here who have lowered their bikes.
IIRC The plastic can be removed..

I have a 2008 FJR with a Kouba link and the forks moved up a bit in the triple clamps. I had a 2005 FJR which I never lowered. Funny how that bike seemed lower than the '08 did stock. I lowered the '08 because when I tour with the topcase the bike is more prone to tipping and I have often found myself on uneven ground with a very heavily loaded FJR. I have a 29 inch inseam and find the lowering of the bike to have been a worthwhile modification. I have been nicknamed "rocket" by the group I tour with, so I am not a slow rider.

I have not found a negative impact on the handling with the small amount of lowering I have done. Yes, the bike will drag pegs earlier, but unless you are a heavy rider (you certainly don't appear to be) it shouldn't pose a problem. I also took a small section of the kickstand out and welded it together again so the lean angle on the stand would be the same as stock. Putting the bike on the centerstand lowered is more difficult, and I find it easier to roll the bike up on stepped pieces of plywood before using the centerstand, which I generally only do for wheel removal.

If you would like to actually discuss any of the lowering issues in more detail, feel free to PM me with contact info.

After posting I saw that you asked about removal of the seat adjustment plastic piece. I removed mine to help in the lowering process as well. I've sat on bikes with scooped out or lowered heights but never liked them either because a) I felt like I was sitting in a hole, or b)not enough padding was left for comfort.

I bought the Soupys adjustable lowering links, installed them for me and haven't looked back. That was one of the best things I've done to my bike. Then, a gentleman on here told me to take some metal off of the "kickstand stop" which changed the angle of the kickstand. I've had great results from my experience.

Riding my FJR is the most fun that I've ever had with my clothes on!

Surprise Sex Is The Best Thing To Wake Up To........ Unless You Are In Prison

MEM has a lowered FJR (and quite difficult to put on the centerstand). I think several of the aftermarket seats can lower the seat height by an inch, either by using high density foam or making the seat narrower in the front so its easier to put your feet straight down.

I have no experience with lowering the FJR, it's height is okay for me (30" inseam). I did lower my previous ride, an '07 Suzuki VStrom 650. I used a similar lowering link to bring that bike down 3/4" at the rear, and then lowered the front end by the same amount (raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps). As FJR919 mentioned, the bike was then too upright for the side stand and I had to shorten it. (I actually found someone giving away a shortened side stand that came with the same bike they had bought used, and then returned theirs to stock height.) My bike was so upright with the stock side stand that with finger pressure on the right saddlebag I could tip the bike over, necessitating the shortened side stand. And as described, I was also having to roll the tires up onto 3/4" plywood (or thicker) to be able to get the bike up on the center stand, another bi-product of lowering the suspension.

But in reference to your seat- I just received the Russell Day Long rebuild of my stock saddle, which I am anxiously waiting for spring to arrive so I can try it out. Anyway, I wonder if Russell can do a seat rebuild that could meet your needs, allowing you to leave the suspension untouched? You'd also benefit from a rebuilt saddle, and there's no shortage of talk about Russell saddle rebuilds on this site. They will rebuild your saddle based around your height, weight, leg inseam measurement, waistline, and bike model, also for any other ergo mod's you've made (handlebar risers, etc), and they want photos of you sitting on your bike to aide them in the custom design that meets your needs.

May be worth a phone call to them. May improve your riding experience in a couple ways (leg reach to the ground and general seating comfort).

I'm kinda shocked the hounds haven't pee'd all over this post yet..Not sure about the Kouba link or any other for that matter but I do know there are several here who have lowered their bikes. IIRC The plastic can be removed..

I'm kinda shocked the hounds haven't pee'd all over this post yet..Not sure about the Kouba link or any other for that matter but I do know there are several here who have lowered their bikes. IIRC The plastic can be removed..

You might try pinging MEM for more info as I know her's is lowered.

Oh yee of little faith in my brother and sister riders~

That's a good un There are some real characters here as you'll soon see.Lucky for you it's Saturday evening and most of them are already passed out drunk.

I'm kinda shocked the hounds haven't pee'd all over this post yet..Not sure about the Kouba link or any other for that matter but I do know there are several here who have lowered their bikes. IIRC The plastic can be removed..

You might try pinging MEM for more info as I know her's is lowered.

Oh yee of little faith in my brother and sister riders~

Use caution here AGirl... Busta has been known to post pics of himself in only a loin cloth

I know a few who have lowered their FJRs and none have reported serious issues with handling.
I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with dragging hard parts unless you are really aggressive while cornering.

Once you modify the seat ($$$) and if that doesn't work it will cost you more ($$$) to return it to OEM unless you buy a second seat to have modified. I know that Kasey rides an '03 and had the front of her seat modified (IIRC, lowered an inch or so).

Links would certainly be a cheaper method and easily changed back of you're not happy. I would think you might find a used set, perhaps on ebay.
If you do go with links, the problems mentioned above will apply: The kickstand will need to be modified (either bent "out" or shortened) and putting the bike on the center stand may require help.

It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

I know a few who have lowered their FJRs and none have reported serious issues with handling.I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with dragging hard parts unless you are really aggressive while cornering.

Once you modify the seat ($$) and if that doesn't work it will cost you more ($$) to return it to OEM unless you buy a second seat to have modified. I know that Kasey rides an '03 and had the front of her seat modified (IIRC, lowered an inch or so).

Links would certainly be a cheaper method and easily changed back of you're not happy. I would think you might find a used set, perhaps on ebay.If you do go with links, the problems mentioned above will apply: The kickstand will need to be modified (either bent "out" or shortened) and putting the bike on the center stand may require help.

In the interest of clarity, especially for someone new...

Links will not be a cheaper method. Here's why:

1) the links themselves will cost 50? a 100? whatever. Yes they could be resold, possibly.2) lowering the kickstand (and centerstand) is going to cost quite a bit. And to go back to oem, if needed, not an inexpensive option. 3) if you lower in the back (links), many will recommend you lower the tubes in the front by the same amount, to keep the suspension geometry the same. this can be "undone" easily though.4) NONE of these things are done by someone without some mechanical ability. NOTE: yer paying money for someone else to do that.

Seat Modification:

1) Spencer (for one) is an inexpensive option. His modifications will improve the seat. It's highly unlikely you would ever want to go back to OEM, I mean, the seat has been lowered and modified for long distance. If you want even further adjustments than yes, it would cost more. But generally, the seat is a big help, but some may need even further help. 2) so now, you keep the seat (of course, it's an improvement), and you use smaller lowering links. If necessary!

Start out with the seat. It's inexpensive and will be an improvement, no matters what. You can take the seat on and off, you don't have to pay someone else for anything but the modification of the seat.

First of all Bust behave around the Newbe. You live in California. Russell Day Long Saddles is in California. Goto the website, call them an talk to them. I believe you can make an appointment to bring in the bike and they will modify it for you that day. Takes about 4 or 5 hours I think. So if they are not far away you could go first thing in the AM and be home for dinner with a great ride. I agree with the idea that the seat is first and the links are last. Shortening the side stand needs to be done by someone that has a machine shop and can do math. It is not just remove and inch from everything because of the angle and you want to keep that angles the same. You also need the little pad on the bottom so you do not sink in the dirt or pavement. So now you need a math guy with a welder. By the way you are welding a cast piece of aluminum. That means that if your welder is not really good at what he does he will leave it appearing ok and yet it could be not worth a sh**. And yes please PM MEM. You will have a great time just talking to her.

I know a few who have lowered their FJRs and none have reported serious issues with handling.I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with dragging hard parts unless you are really aggressive while cornering.

In the interest of clarity, especially for someone new...

Links will not be a cheaper method. Here's why:

Seat Modification:

What I didn't explain, and my assumption is, that changing the links and trying them before modifying everything or anything else could be cheaper than buying another seat and having it modified before swapping it for a test.

If one did like the lowered bike, then one could/should modify the side stand. If not, one could have the OEM links re-installed.Of course, I would do it myself (I did help another local owner change his) and didn't consider what a shop might charge.

OTH, the price of a second pilot seat to have modified, the time involved and then any added changes to the modified seat....There have been those who've sent their newly made aftermarket seat back for revisions.

As I mentioned, Kasey had her seat modified and her suspension remains OEM.I also agreed with the member who suggested sending a PM to Mary Ellen (MEM) for her input. Both Katherine and Mary Ellen are "slightly built" and similar in height.

It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.

Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

I'm pretty sharp and figured that out from your screen name. Anyhow, here is a link to a place for lowering links called distribution jester. I have the raising links, but the install is almost the same. Here is a Linky to the easy weasy method I used to install them. It only took 15 minutes . If you are in So. Cal I can help, or if up north I am sure there are plenty that can assist. If you want to go the seat route, you can take the seat cover off, use a hole saw and remove half of the foam from underneath in strategic locations so the seat will mush more when you sit, and then staple it back together. Only go through half of the foam so the top still looks factory with no irregularities. Real easy to do. Good luck.

I know a few who have lowered their FJRs and none have reported serious issues with handling.I wouldn't think you'd have a problem with dragging hard parts unless you are really aggressive while cornering.

Once you modify the seat ($$) and if that doesn't work it will cost you more ($$) to return it to OEM unless you buy a second seat to have modified. I know that Kasey rides an '03 and had the front of her seat modified (IIRC, lowered an inch or so).

Links would certainly be a cheaper method and easily changed back of you're not happy. I would think you might find a used set, perhaps on ebay.If you do go with links, the problems mentioned above will apply: The kickstand will need to be modified (either bent "out" or shortened) and putting the bike on the center stand may require help.

In the interest of clarity, especially for someone new...

Links will not be a cheaper method. Here's why:

1) the links themselves will cost 50? a 100? whatever. Yes they could be resold, possibly.2) lowering the kickstand (and centerstand) is going to cost quite a bit. And to go back to oem, if needed, not an inexpensive option. 3) if you lower in the back (links), many will recommend you lower the tubes in the front by the same amount, to keep the suspension geometry the same. this can be "undone" easily though.4) NONE of these things are done by someone without some mechanical ability. NOTE: yer paying money for someone else to do that.

Seat Modification:

1) Spencer (for one) is an inexpensive option. His modifications will improve the seat. It's highly unlikely you would ever want to go back to OEM, I mean, the seat has been lowered and modified for long distance. If you want even further adjustments than yes, it would cost more. But generally, the seat is a big help, but some may need even further help. 2) so now, you keep the seat (of course, it's an improvement), and you use smaller lowering links. If necessary!

Start out with the seat. It's inexpensive and will be an improvement, no matters what. You can take the seat on and off, you don't have to pay someone else for anything but the modification of the seat.

Go from there...

Thank you for the thoughtful response~ I am leaning towards the seat mod.