2003 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Vieilles Vignes, $23.49, 12.5% alc.: Wines from this producer are always welcome at Gang Central, and this bottle gives testimony as to why. Pale to medium straw in color, it offers flavors and aromas of wet stones, river water, under ripe apples and a hint of citrus; it has enough acidity to carry it along nicely, but it’s not as crisp as these usually are, probably due to the heat extremes of the vintage. Indeed, there’s a certain "soft" quality here that doesn’t bother me at all, and the wine shows good concentration and nice length on the finish. Best of all, it makes a fine match for smoked chicken on the back deck on a hot summer eve, so buy it in numbers and drink it now and over the next few years.

2001 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Fourchaume, $19.99, 12.5% alc.: The first Premier Cru we’ve had from Séguinot-Bordet, and a very fine one indeed; Kim’s first impressions of this medium gold colored Chablis are "pine needles and smoke," and these flesh out with flinty, under ripe apples, quince and hints of bees wax, butterscotch and rainwater. Rich, and yet bone dry at the same time, this has excellent presence, good cut and a long finish, and is already showing some nice notes of maturity. This one is right where I like it, but others might want to cellar it for as long as five more years. Either/or...