The TCK studs has a rounded ends allowing quick start of the lug nuts and less likely chance of cross threading. Made from degassed, tumble blasted 4140 aircraft steel and coated with baked on dry film lubricant. I use these my personal car.

RB studs allow easy removal when you decide to go back to lug bolts. The typical allen drive(80-90% of them are that way) stud kits out there...you will never get those off without stripping them, then it's breaking out your Vise-grip and destroy your studs in the process.

You get what you pay for in wheel studs as well!

Are you saying that the RB one will strip like other typical allen drive kits when removing, or are better than others when removing?

This is what I found for removing studs, the allen keys are only used upon installation.

Removal tips:
• When removing studs do not use the allen as doing so may damage the stud. Thread
two nuts on to a stud and lock them together. Then use a wrench on the nut closest to
the hub to loosen and remove stud.

How do you remove the TCK studs? Also, are you saying that the RB one will strip like other typical allen drive kits when removing, or are better than others when removing?

Double nut. Same way you put it on.

I think Harold is saying that the RB studs WON'T strip like the typical allen key driven studs when removing. A simple 8mm hex socket will do the trick.

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The hell I don't! LISTEN, KID! I've been hearing that crap ever since I was at UCLA. I'm out there busting my buns every night! Tell your old man to drag Walton and Lanier up and down the court for 48 minutes!

Thanks! I edited my original post. But this technique is brilliant, as many, no doubt including me, would use the allen key to remove the stud, which it isn't designed for.

So, if this technique is used by all either for removing or installing, allen key or hex head becomes unimportant??

In my experience, an allen key or hex head makes installation 10X easier. And if you're installing sans thread-lock like RacingBrake calls for for their studs, you WILL need to be able to apply significant amount of torque on the studs when installing.

Obviously you can always double nut. It's not hard to do, but you sort of need to know how to do it right, or at least watch someone do it once who knows how to do it right to do it right. Allen key and hex head takes all that out of the equation.

To me, the key features are still the tensile strength of the studs and the finish on the studs. Allen key or hex head is a nice feature to have. Bulleted thread is a nice feature to have. If the studs you're looking for meets the tensile strength and the finish criteria, and are priced competitively, I'd go to the next two features and use that as the deal breaker.

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The hell I don't! LISTEN, KID! I've been hearing that crap ever since I was at UCLA. I'm out there busting my buns every night! Tell your old man to drag Walton and Lanier up and down the court for 48 minutes!

So with allen-ends, do you use them at all for initial installation or is it still recommended to use the double-nut method?

Also, am I correct in thinking you install the studs dry, torque to 40-50ft/lbs then still use the standard 88ft/lbs on the nuts?

For installation, follow the manufacturer's recommendation. If manufacturer of the studs calls for dry installation up to XX ft-lbs, follow it. If manufacturer asks for double nut and loc-tite, follow that.

But be sure you get the RIGHT loc-tite. There are multiple grades of "red" and "blue" and they all have different properties. For example, the 262 commonly found at autozone or pepboys are not "permanent." They're high heat, high strength and provide and approximately ~40-50 ft-lbs of break-away torque without the actual stretching of the fastener to achieve that torque. Clarify with the manufacturer which specification thread fasteners they recommend.

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The hell I don't! LISTEN, KID! I've been hearing that crap ever since I was at UCLA. I'm out there busting my buns every night! Tell your old man to drag Walton and Lanier up and down the court for 48 minutes!