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I have noticed that the app is not dropping / logging pins for some encounters. I have 'create ignore pins' active. It did not log a Ka hit the other day and it ignored 3 K band hits today, but it did log two other 2 band hit today. There does not seem to be a 'reason' for the pins not being created, not that I can see at least. Any ideas that I might be missing or not aware of? Thanks!

Going “Plaid” ASAP (Tesla S) RDT refugee

I wish there were YouTube videos that train us newbies on all the nuances.

I too have been having issues with Driver, similar to @westwind77. Since the pinned lockouts hace NOT been automatic, daily I have to go to the make and click on the selection to lock out. I have GPS accuracy to default. Will keep eye of it is ”red”.

In the meantime, I turned up eSavvy on connection app to 45. And matched that on your “savvy“ setting. In order to keep GEN2 quiet in All or Logic mode (door openers and TSF like K band bots around here set it off way to often... full logic all the GEN2 critics seem to think full logic kills K band alert needs). Looks like I need to back Savvy down to a useless setting in order for pins to activate?

I need help dealing with complexities of Driver needed for optimum setup on a V1. Which I have large number of K band real LEO sources.

I would be willing to set up a WebEx training session for those who would like better training and ask questions. And for those experienced on RDF who are willing to do knowledge transfer. For us noobs, will save us hours of frustration and chaos.

In order to keep GEN2 quiet in All or Logic mode (door openers and TSF like K band bots around here set it off way to often... full logic all the GEN2 critics seem to think full logic kills K band alert needs).

This is all very subjective and depends what you are using to compare. If you run an R7 at the lowest possible K-band setting w/TSF on or if you come from a 360 running Auto with TSR on vs if you have an R7 set to 100% w/ TSF off or a 360 on highway with TSR off.

The only, somewhat, accurate way to really compare all of these units is to run them as close to apples to apples as you can. For me that is running the 360 on highway w/ TSR off and the G2 on All bogeys w/ K filter on - In this method the G2 filters out more false alerts than the 360 can, including shopping center door openers and does an equal or better job on BSM's.

Going “Plaid” ASAP (Tesla S) RDT refugee

This is all very subjective and depends what you are using to compare. If you run an R7 at the lowest possible K-band setting w/TSF on or if you come from a 360 running Auto with TSR on vs if you have an R7 set to 100% w/ TSF off or a 360 on highway with TSR off.

The only, somewhat, accurate way to really compare all of these units is to run them as close to apples to apples as you can. For me that is running the 360 on highway w/ TSR off and the G2 on All bogeys w/ K filter on - In this method the G2 filters out more false alerts than the 360 can, including shopping center door openers and does an equal or better job on BSM's.

Pins are unrelated to optimum setup on a V1. Pins serve a primary function, which is to denote where lockouts may go, and a secondary function, which is a quasi detection log that some find interesting or helpful to look at.

If there’s a specific goal you’re trying to accomplish, sharing what that is specifically would help guide suggestions or advice on the matter. It makes it harder because everyone has their own idea of what constitutes an “optimum setup” while for most just letting it run as it comes out of the box for a week or two is the best option.

Software Developer

I wish there were YouTube videos that train us newbies on all the nuances.

I too have been having issues with Driver, similar to @westwind77. Since the pinned lockouts hace NOT been automatic, daily I have to go to the make and click on the selection to lock out. I have GPS accuracy to default. Will keep eye of it is ”red”.

In the meantime, I turned up eSavvy on connection app to 45. And matched that on your “savvy“ setting. In order to keep GEN2 quiet in All or Logic mode (door openers and TSF like K band bots around here set it off way to often... full logic all the GEN2 critics seem to think full logic kills K band alert needs). Looks like I need to back Savvy down to a useless setting in order for pins to activate?

I need help dealing with complexities of Driver needed for optimum setup on a V1. Which I have large number of K band real LEO sources.

I would be willing to set up a WebEx training session for those who would like better training and ask questions. And for those experienced on RDF who are willing to do knowledge transfer. For us noobs, will save us hours of frustration and chaos.

I run all three. Full Logic most urban areas. Logic... Running that more with V1Driver because certain RDF members fear full logic with K band. wanting to run logic mode and have V1 Driver handle the fixed false areas.

I do NOT run VR OBD Savvy. I run your “savvy“ settings. tried 10mph, 30mph, 45mph. Are you saying that if running under those thresholds, NO pinned lockouts will happen?

What I really want is total lockout. No bright red visual blinking and jumping around on known fixed false locations. Not just the sound silenced (And I mean silenced, not muted to low level). I want only real radar to punch through for visual or audio alert (in locked out area). Does Driver do this?

What are you trying to say? That V1Driver’s automatic lockouts are broken? That you’d rather they lock out faster? Or what?

Pins are unrelated to optimum setup on a V1. Pins serve a primary function, which is to denote where lockouts may go, and a secondary function, which is a quasi detection log that some find interesting or helpful to look at.

If there’s a specific goal you’re trying to accomplish, sharing what that is specifically would help guide suggestions or advice on the matter. It makes it harder because everyone has their own idea of what constitutes an “optimum setup” while for most just letting it run as it comes out of the box for a week or two is the best option.

Have V1 Driver (or JBVI if V1 Driver won’t do this) lockout fixed falsing. Lock out meaning total silence, and total alert darkness on the display. Only real radar come through. I also like some of the other features. However, the lockout function as described is first goal.

I understand V1D has to learn. I understand I also can note on the map, that that lockout area in process of being examined (three times) I can lock out right away on the pin?

I like the narrow frequency lockout settings. I have it at freq tolerance of .04, standard deviation of 3, samples 10, direction tolerance 45 degrees, minimum time between 1hr, accuracy in time 10 seconds, GPS accuracy 300ft (changed from 100ft), minimum distance between 100ft. I use 3 minimum counts (lowest allowed). Any of these messed up?

I reduced snooze from my first setting of 2 minutes (For any BSM punch through) to 45 seconds. Don’t think I have used this once due to BSM. I also auto mute laser after 3 seconds, set snooze for 45 seconds (laser vehicle falsing).

One mute in box setting: 23.900-24.050. I have voice in box for all of ka band.

X is off. Sound setting and voice settings mostly default. I went 60 minutes for instant replay. Using on iPhone 10X.

He was pretty clear. By design, no new pins are dropped any alert that shows up while you are traveling below Savvy speed (or during warmups/cooldown). So if you’re toddling around the shopping center parking lot, and you get a faint door opener, it’s not going to drop a new pin.

But let’s say you drove past that shopping center parking lot yesterday at speeds above your Savvy cutoff. V1Driver will have dropped a pin for it so it can keep tabs on that source. Today, you pull into the parking lot and are crawling along under Savvy speed, so everything is muted no matter what anyway. But then it sees that same signal from yesterday. So it makes a note of it, its frequency, how far off it was, where you were located, etc. There’s no point in leaning a source you only ever encounter under Savvy speed. But if you ever encounter it over Savvy speed, then even if you’re under in the future it’ll keep tabs on it.

Let V1Driver do it for you. It doesn’t take long, and it will keep track of the frequency drift over time, so that it can narrow the lockout automatically as tight as reasonably possible instead of a static lockout.

You’re a smart guy with a lot of experience running detectors. So you’re looking at every setting under a microscope and making assumptions about what will get your what you want as quickly and as optimally as possible. I know it will probably go against your grain, but I would suggest you reset your settings to default, change only small things and even then only if truly necessary, and then let it run as it comes out of the box for a couple weeks of normal driving. After a couple weeks, if there’s something you want to change, tweak, optimize, you’ll probably know exactly what it is an exactly why so you know exactly what you should change it to, rather than rushing into it with a bunch of preemptive tweaking.

Going “Plaid” ASAP (Tesla S) RDT refugee

He was pretty clear. By design, no new pins are dropped any alert that shows up while you are traveling below Savvy speed (or during warmups/cooldown). So if you’re toddling around the shopping center parking lot, and you get a faint door opener, it’s not going to drop a new pin.

But let’s say you drove past that shopping center parking lot yesterday at speeds above your Savvy cutoff. V1Driver will have dropped a pin for it so it can keep tabs on that source. Today, you pull into the parking lot and are crawling along under Savvy speed, so everything is muted no matter what anyway. But then it sees that same signal from yesterday. So it makes a note of it, its frequency, how far off it was, where you were located, etc. There’s no point in leaning a source you only ever encounter under Savvy speed. But if you ever encounter it over Savvy speed, then even if you’re under in the future it’ll keep tabs on it.

No app can do that.

Let V1Driver do it for you. It doesn’t take long, and it will keep track of the frequency drift over time, so that it can narrow the lockout automatically as tight as reasonably possible instead of a static lockout.

You’re a smart guy with a lot of experience running detectors. So you’re looking at every setting under a microscope and making assumptions about what will get your what you want as quickly and as optimally as possible. I know it will probably go against your grain, but I would suggest you reset your settings to default, change only small things and even then only if truly necessary, and then let it run as it comes out of the box for a couple weeks of normal driving. After a couple weeks, if there’s something you want to change, tweak, optimize, you’ll probably know exactly what it is an exactly why so you know exactly what you should change it to, rather than rushing into it with a bunch of preemptive tweaking.

Good advice all around. Thank you. For me, training is the key. More I learn how to use V1 Driver, better I will be satisfied with it (And understsnd it’s limits accurately). I am fiddling with it in order to learn. So far, I have found less training tools than I would like. In these initial days of natural hasty statements about GEN2, I want to learn as quickly as possible. Few weeks might be late to help when initial opinions are being formed.

Yea, I now understand that full alert brightness visually will always come through when using V1 Driver to “mute“ alerts. Too bad outside of what Full Logic does on its own, a app can’t suppress visually like it can do with audio.

Another option if you want to train it quickly is turn the eSavvy down to lowest setting, disable hardware savvy if you have one and drive around to all your usual spots....or before you get somewhere you know there are PITA K signals for you dial the eSavvy down on screen (easy enough to do) and then capture those pins. Then later at home--preferably with your drink of choice in hand--go into the map and click the black pins it created in those areas and manually change them to GPSmute pins...done. Those areas muted, just for that band which is the ridiculously awesome part...

I ran V1driver in the foreground on my way into work today, the GPS error was between 16' - 20'. I will take the same route on the way home where the pins were not logged the other day to see what happens this time.

TXCTG

Yea, I now understand that full alert brightness visually will always come through when using V1 Driver to “mute“ alerts. Too bad outside of what Full Logic does on its own, a app can’t suppress visually like it can do with audio.

No app can do it on individual alerts, as far as I know, suppressing audio or visual alerts of one signal but not another at the same time.

There’s a new feature coming shortly that I believe may emulate them Uniden dark mode, running display off unless and until a V1Driver-unmuted alert comes through. That might get you closer to your ideal.

Software Developer

Another option if you want to train it quickly is turn the eSavvy down to lowest setting, disable hardware savvy if you have one and drive around to all your usual spots....or before you get somewhere you know there are PITA K signals for you dial the eSavvy down on screen (easy enough to do) and then capture those pins. Then later at home--preferably with your drink of choice in hand--go into the map and click the black pins it created in those areas and manually change them to GPSmute pins...done. Those areas muted, just for that band which is the ridiculously awesome part...

Learning to Fly

Hah! OK. I just saw someone worrying about K alerts when below the savvy set speed. I've just been driving around and they are learning fine with the exception of a couple stingy areas that have been stuck on learning for at least 6 drives and still telling me "learning"...these aren't a big deal for me though.

Software Developer

Hah! OK. I just saw someone worrying about K alerts when below the savvy set speed. I've just been driving around and they are learning fine with the exception of a couple stingy areas that have been stuck on learning for at least 6 drives and still telling me "learning"...these aren't a big deal for me though.