Probably has to do more with their nickel plating process, think EK, than anything. I've never used any Koolance products, but always use a kill coil, hell sometimes I put a few ounces of ionic silver solution in the loop, too.

A non-salting buffer is needed, like the additives found in coolant, plus the glycol is a lubricant, the molybdenum compounds that make my coolant blue also coat the copper and other metal surfaces and protect them from oxidation.

If you want a green color in the coolant, go WCing old school with Propylene "green color" glycol. The Sierra brand has always been the one of choice. It's not UV, but the green color will actually keep in the coolant and not your parts. Also, the stuff will lubricate the Laing pump nicely for years of trouble free operation too. The corrosion inhibitors will prevent the nasties in the loop as well.

About 10 to 15% is all it will need.

To clean the parts that have been gunked up, distilled vinegar works great! Even mix it up to flush through the loop.

A non-salting buffer is needed, like the additives found in coolant, plus the glycol is a lubricant, the molybdenum compounds that make my coolant blue also coat the copper and other metal surfaces and protect them from oxidation.

Ethylene Glycol is traditional green antifreeze, which is what most people use, Propylene Glycol is generally labeled as "Non-Toxic" or RV Antifreeze and is uaually pink. I use a 10% mix of Propylene Glycol when I run watercooling because it is safe for my animals if I ever spill any.

I used to use Miralax/and a 1/2TSP of baking soda in my distilled water back in 2008 never had a issue used to check it with a ph strip once a month iirc it hovered around 7.3
as for cleaning the crap out ACETONE(nail-polish remover will work )

Thats what I said too! Most of these types of cleaners use acetone and other solvents which will kill plastics and oily based products.

Acetone
Acetone is a solvent also used as fingernail polish remover.

Butane
Butane is a petroleum derivative, most familiar to people as a fuel, that acts as a solvent.

Carbon Dioxide
Carbon dioxide is used as a propellant in aerosols.

Isopropanol
Isopropanol is another name for isopropyl alcohol. Diluted for household use, this is a common disinfectant and cleaner. In stronger concentrations it acts as a solvent in brake cleaner.

Methanol
Methanol is another name for methyl alcohol or wood alcohol. It's used as a fuel and as a solvent.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Also known as butanone or MEK, methyl ethyl ketone is another solvent, similar to acetone.

Propylene Glycol
Propylene Glycol is the chief ingredient in automobile antifreeze. In brake fluid it acts as both a solvent and as a stabilizer for other ingredients, helping them to combine more readily and lowering the freezing point.

Detergent flushing- contains surfactants and polymers/copolymers can lift deposits from the loop

The milder the solution the better- some of these compounds are very strong... pay attention to recommended dilutions, etc....

*** EDIT- Quick test- if the deposits are on the tubing:
- cut 3 small lengths of tubing
- soak one in diluted vinegar solution, one in a diluted bleach solution, and one in diluted detergent (Tide or Palmolive)
- the one that works best is the one that you use

acetone is ok so long as its a low strength such as nailpolish remover
I just acetone nail-polish remover to remove thermal paste even on bare pcb it evaporates so fast that it never causes any real harm
that rest of that list :EKK: ...
the only way to kill a toon ..
acetone benzine turpentine Judge Doom Dips a Shoe - YouTube

I was looking at CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover), the label states not to use on Copper/Aluminum or Galvanized surfaces. I was also looking at Prestone radiator flush, which has a slightly acidic compound in it.

The biggest concern right now is the radiator. If it's got that same scale in it, the heat transfer must be diminished. I'm assuming it's made of aluminum?

I was looking at CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover), the label states not to use on Copper/Aluminum or Galvanized surfaces. I was also looking at Prestone radiator flush, which has a slightly acidic compound in it.

The biggest concern right now is the radiator. If it's got that same scale in it, the heat transfer must be diminished. I'm assuming it's made of aluminum?

clr/rad flush will destroy the following
1. pump
2.the tubing
3. the block
4. the rad
flush it with the following a mix of 1/2 cup Rubbing alcohol and 1/4 cup of acetone(nailpolish remover) and 1 cup of HOT water and if that doesn't work run strait nailpolish remover though it for about a 1m and then quickly flush with water please don't use non-organic solvents it will wreak your shit

My name is Dave

I was looking at CLR (Calcium Lime Rust remover), the label states not to use on Copper/Aluminum or Galvanized surfaces. I was also looking at Prestone radiator flush, which has a slightly acidic compound in it.

The biggest concern right now is the radiator. If it's got that same scale in it, the heat transfer must be diminished. I'm assuming it's made of aluminum?

In the past, there's been guys confronted with this problem who ran vinegar through their rad to remove it, and it worked, however, a few found that if left too long, it'll eat away at the solder in the rad, and affecting the integrity of the rad.

I cannot remember how long that was, but I do remember that it was shortly after that things like running a filter in the loop to catch this stuff before commissioning the rig started to be far more common.

So, anyway, any time you set up a new loop, this is going to happen, and now that this stuff is coating your entire loop, it will continue to be a problem until is completely removed. Hence a filter on setup.

Personally, I'd be buying a whole new loop, installing a filter, and running it for a month or two until all the chemicals are leached out of the tubing. Then, I'd be running distilled that would be pH balanced, or treated to deal with that potential issue.

Then I'd be carefully taking apart all the blocks and such, cleaning, and then selling.

This is why I don't run anything other than AIO water coolers. If you follow popular opinion, things like this are ALWAYS a problem, and everyone's got different way to deal with it, since there truly is not real way to prevent it. Moving water creates ions, even more so since we add heat to it, and you can't just move electrons from one place to the next without them affecting everything along the way.

In the past, there's been guys confronted with this problem who ran vinegar through their rad to remove it, and it worked, however, a few found that if left too long, it'll eat away at the solder in the rad, and affecting the integrity of the rad.

I cannot remember how long that was, but I do remember that it was shortly after that things like running a filter in the loop to catch this stuff before commissioning the rig started to be far more common.

So, anyway, any time you set up a new loop, this is going to happen, and now that this stuff is coating your entire loop, it will continue to be a problem until is completely removed. Hence a filter on setup.

Personally, I'd be buying a whole new loop, installing a filter, and running it for a month or two until all the chemicals are leached out of the tubing. Then, I'd be running distilled that would be pH balanced, or treated to deal with that potential issue.

Then I'd be carefully taking apart all the blocks and such, cleaning, and then selling.

This is why I don't run anything other than AIO water coolers. If you follow popular opinion, things like this are ALWAYS a problem, and everyone's got different way to deal with it, since there truly is not real way to prevent it. Moving water creates ions, even more so since we add heat to it, and you can't just move electrons from one place to the next without them affecting everything along the way.

its not a problem its just a nature of water cooling people that dump shit in there loops are the ones that have the most issues
if you wanna test for electrolysis heres how
attach the - of your test meter to the ground on the psu either 5v or 3v put the + side in to the coolant but don't touch anything else if you have any voltage there then you have a grounding issue in the system and need to either ground the coolant or rad to a negative return on the psu you should ground ANY system even if you don't have problem to give the free ions someplace to go

This is why I don't run anything other than AIO water coolers. If you follow popular opinion, things like this are ALWAYS a problem, and everyone's got different way to deal with it, since there truly is not real way to prevent it. Moving water creates ions, even more so since we add heat to it, and you can't just move electrons from one place to the next without them affecting everything along the way.

If you ignore popular opinion and run a mix of vehicle antifreeze similar to what is found in an AIO cooler most of those problems are gone. Having run the loop in my RF case for upwards of 2 years without even looking at the water beyond what could be seen in the res which was still clean and full. That is something I have never heard of or seen a distilled water setup do. When the loop was torn down there was minor build up on the tubing, but the block was clean as were the radiators and pumps. The dye from the coolant did not dye any parts like is common with PC coolants and the liquid itself was completely reusable.

To this day 25% coolant mixed with filtered water is all I have ever run without issue. I have PT nuke and have tried silver coils always led to a short service interval. Not worth it IMO. Cleaning blocks and pumps sucks I will stick to the long life coolants such as dexcool.

Personally, I'd be buying a whole new loop, installing a filter, and running it for a month or two until all the chemicals are leached out of the tubing. Then, I'd be running distilled that would be pH balanced, or treated to deal with that potential issue.

The hell with it. Even though the cooling capacity of the rad may be dimished, the block is clean, the pump works and I'll just run it the way it is.

Perhaps next year, I'll dive into a new case and replace everything. I have a spare non-vario version of the 655 pump, and I run the vario at full speed 24/7 anyway so that's taken care of, just need tubing, fittings, radiator and an upgraded block.

My name is Dave

You could try the filter idea, under the premise that if that stuff got deposited by the water, it'll also be removed, and with the right filter, you'd be able to remove and clean it all, just by running the loop.

What should happen, is that whatever is in the rad or whatever else isn't cleaned, will then get spread out elsewhere again, just thinner than it is now.

And yeah, myself, I'd not worry about it. But if you truly want to deal with it "properly" a lot of work is at hand.

You could try the filter idea, under the premise that if that stuff got deposited by the water, it'll also be removed, and with the right filter, you'd be able to remove and clean it all, just by running the loop.

What should happen, is that whatever is in the rad or whatever else isn't cleaned, will then get spread out elsewhere again, just thinner than it is now.

And yeah, myself, I'd not worry about it. But if you truly want to deal with it "properly" a lot of work is at hand.