My dad finally broke down the rear differential in the trooper he picked up over a year ago. He let me know there isn't anything worth salvaging. teeth sheared, housing inside trashed, various other busted pieces. I might post some pics of it when I get to his house.

What is the best way to get a new diff? I see that silverbulletmotorsports has two different options selling on ebay and I will get in touch with them tomorrow. I just wanted to know if anyone has experience with putting in a new or rebuilt replacement with upgrades, and what the best option might be. Thanks.

My dad finally broke down the rear differential in the trooper he picked up over a year ago. He let me know there isn't anything worth salvaging. teeth sheared, housing inside trashed, various other busted pieces. I might post some pics of it when I get to his house.

What is the best way to get a new diff? I see that silverbulletmotorsports has two different options selling on ebay and I will get in touch with them tomorrow. I just wanted to know if anyone has experience with putting in a new or rebuilt replacement with upgrades, and what the best option might be. Thanks.

You sort of have to get a diff where you can. Sillverbullet has them and No Limit Motorsports in TX. might have them, other then that, they are a bit hard to find. When you do get one, I would open it up before installation to see if it actually has been upgraded. There are a lot of people out there that think they have upgraded diffs but actually don't. The only way to tell is to open it up. Your diff problems are what can happen if they are not upgraded or upgraded properly. Sounds like you had ring and pinion gear mis-alignment which will break off teeth. Teeth running around loose inside the diff can tear up everything else. A proper upgrade aligns the gears amongst other things. I've looked for alternative diffs but the problem is that most don't lock out and if you change the rear, you have to change the front because of the diffs gear ratios. the other problem is that the Trooper diff is geared very high compaired to normal diff gearing so you would almost for sure end up with much lower gearing, too low IMHO, except for rock crawling. Then it would be nice.

You sort of have to get a diff where you can. Sillverbullet has them and No Limit Motorsports in TX. might have them, other then that, they are a bit hard to find. When you do get one, I would open it up before installation to see if it actually has been upgraded. There are a lot of people out there that think they have upgraded diffs but actually don't. The only way to tell is to open it up. Your diff problems are what can happen if they are not upgraded or upgraded properly. Sounds like you had ring and pinion gear mis-alignment which will break off teeth. Teeth running around loose inside the diff can tear up everything else. A proper upgrade aligns the gears amongst other things. I've looked for alternative diffs but the problem is that most don't lock out and if you change the rear, you have to change the front because of the diffs gear ratios. the other problem is that the Trooper diff is geared very high compaired to normal diff gearing so you would almost for sure end up with much lower gearing, too low IMHO, except for rock crawling. Then it would be nice.

Lenny

Thanks Lenny. I came by your place last summer and picked up a couple of kits from you. I knew this differential had issues but was hoping we would be alright when it was disassembled. No such luck. Hopefully the front one should be in good enough shape to be upgraded.

In the diff it sounds like the pin/set screw came apart and it all went downhill from there. The guy my dad bought it from would only run it with the rear diff locked. When you unlocked the diff is when you would hear all the issues.

Thanks for the opinion on the upgraded diffs. I did read some older posts explaining that even the upgraded diffs from joyner had some issues.

Just a little comment about our Troopers and the high gear ratio of the differential, while at the jamboree, I learned that the engine & transmission are out of the vehicle that has them mounted in the transverse position (sideways) and that the drive lines usual go directly to a wheel, but mounted inline as they are in our Troopers, they had to add a differential to send the power to each of the wheels and that's why we can only do maybe 60 mph and have a relatively low first gear, If it were possible to send the power to the wheels without the differential reduction, these things would scream, probably kill us all too because they are not that stable at high speed, IMHO but wouldn't have the hill climbing power that we now have.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Kinarfi

Just a little comment about our Troopers and the high gear ratio of the differential, while at the jamboree, I learned that the engine & transmission are out of the vehicle that has them mounted in the transverse position (sideways) and that the drive lines usual go directly to a wheel, but mounted inline as they are in our Troopers, they had to add a differential to send the power to each of the wheels and that's why we can only do maybe 60 mph and have a relatively low first gear, If it were possible to send the power to the wheels without the differential reduction, these things would scream, probably kill us all too because they are not that stable at high speed, IMHO but wouldn't have the hill climbing power that we now have.Just my 2 cents worth.Kinarfi

I find my Trooper to be relatively stable at speed, but it could be better. While talking to my buddy with the RZR S after doing some high speed driving down the same trail, I mentioned my trooper felt a little "floaty" and that I was a little sketchy around corners. He mentioned his RZR felt the same way. However, I would assume his is a little more stable since he has front & rear sway bars. I am looking into swaybar options. I am going to start with a rear one first. I am getting a ton of sway in the rear end due to the dual rate shocks.

When first got my Trooper I would run almost everything with the rear locker engaged. I kept hearing a banging in the rear of the buggy, but it sounded as though it was coming from the suspension. It wasn't until my 2nd trip to Moab that I realized the banging was due to the rear locker being engaged and it would cause a banging noise when weight would shift in the rear end. Now I only run it when necessary--no more banging.

I only have 4wd & lockers engaged when needed. AND I find that is rare. I can climb most anything and go thu most anything in 2wd. Lower ride height stabilizes the Trooper at speed. I have lowered ours almost 2".

I only have 4wd & lockers engaged when needed. AND I find that is rare. I can climb most anything and go thu most anything in 2wd. Lower ride height stabilizes the Trooper at speed. I have lowered ours almost 2".

Same here,couldnt see reason to keep it in 4wd and lockers locked all the time.Only do it when needed.

I run mine with the rear locked quite a bit. Sort of like the ability to slew the rear by braking both wheels loose. Then again maybe I should only put it in lock when I want to play that way or need it which is a lot less of the time. Think I'll try not locked for everything else. On the higher speed handling, I'm thinking that two things are contributing to the problem. One being the loosness in the steering which allows the front to wander a bit. The other is the tow in, If this is set with extra tow in, then this would contribute to the wander as the steering might tend to shift back and forth between the right and left wheel. I find that if the tow in is a bit much, it gets twichy at speed. It turns quicker but I don't like the twitch. I keep mine with just a slight tow in, maybe 1/4-1/2 inch as apposed to the manual recomended 1". I don't feel they should be unstable at speed but they tend to be and there should be a fix for it. Maybe we can get input from others as to what they think might be causing it. We should be able to solve it.

Silverbullet
The tow should be about 1/4.Also stock tires are crap they are bias ply not redial and that doesn't help.A lot of times the whole suspension needs adjusting.! make sure all the joints are good then get a wood worker square.Check air pressure when cold and then put the square up on the out side of tire long side up.The squaw should be in contact with upper and lower side of tire.If it out you need to adjust the hims till the square touches tire upper and lower.Then adj.toe.If you need more info call Jose at Silverbullet and he will tell you how to adj.the tow.
If you still need the diff we have 2 in stock+you get 5% off because you are a member.928 344 2117
Thanks
Jose

Hey I think that I have a diff for you if your still in need of one? I am about an hour away from you in St. George.. I was asking $650 for it. Let me know if you still need one and we can get in touch.
Thanks