Peak Climbing

Nepal actually holds 1310 mountains having an altitude between 5500m to 8848m. And so is famous as the Himalayan Kingdom among mountaineers from the entire world. The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) taking the authority presented climbing permits in small range peaks since 1978.

And we, Boundless Himalaya Trekking and Expeditions acquiring the membership from NMA have been arranging different peak climbing packages since its inception. Also, our guides are well- experienced lofty altitude mountaineers. They are skilled to take you safe and sound to the thin air area of the grand Himalayas. Taking care about your acclimatization process our guides will lend hands to summate peaks successfully either you are a beginner or well-experienced mountaineers.

Some of the peak climbing options Boundless Himalaya Trekking and Expeditions bestow are- Chulu East (6059m) which offers amazing views of Annapurna Himalayas enthralls you and mounts from the North part of the Marsyangdi River positioned in the Manang area plus from splitting up the Manang Himal integrated in the larger Damodar Himal; Island Peak (6173m) identified as Imja Tse is the additional climb of Lhotse Shar, a well-liked for trekking path that can be climbed traversing the Everest Base Camp; Mera Peak (6654m)flanked by the mighty mountain – Mount Everest as well as Mont Blanc; Pisang Peak lying higher than Pisang village and yak grazing lands in a constant tilt of ice to the ending summit and many more.

If you love to go for peak climbing, we, Boundless Himalaya Trekking and Expeditions will arrange all the required equipments, high altitude porters, guides, and all other accessories. Choose among the NMA-approved peaks and experience the glory of peak climbing in Nepal.

We run basic climbing clinics from September to June covering the following:

We run our own groups between the months of September to June to both Island Peak and Mera peak on a monthly basis, if you would like to join a group please contact us.

Group \”B\” peaks

This is the original list of the most popular climbing peaks in Nepal,they are grouped a \”B\” peaks by the Nepal Mountaineering association, group \”A\” follow on.

Permits and costs:

The procedure for obtaining a permit is streamlined in comparison to the months of planning required for expedition peaks. It\’s therefore possible to arrive in Kathmandu organize a trekking peak trip from scratch and be on the trail in a couple of days. The permits must be obtained in Kathmandu, so the group meets up two or three clear days before trek departure.

Annapurna Sanctuary region peaks

Mardi Himal 5587m.

Overshadowed by Machhapuchhre to the north, Mardi Himal receives only a few ascents a year. The most common climbing route takes the south ridge and a straightforward ascent using a snow gully. It is also possible to climb using the SSW ridge (Mardi Himal trek) but this involves a bit of rock climbing too. One of the attractions of this peak is the remoteness. Just to get to the base camp takes 3-5 days of wilderness trekking.

Huin Chuli 6441m.

The formidable front wall of the sanctuary has a fearsome reputation and there is no \’standard\’ route up. Any route is a challenging technical climb and route finding is very difficult,it is best tackled in true expedition style. There may be an easier way up though than at first sight, as you can climb to a col and descend the other side to an easier line up.

Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663m.

Lying right in the middle sanctuary surrounded by 7000m peaks, this is the most popular of the sanctuary peaks. The route packs a few surprises and some intricate route-finding but its lower altitude makes it suitable for shorter itineraries. The approach to base camp is dangerous, exposed to rock fall while ascending a moraine.

Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) 6501m.

Also lying entirely within the sanctuary north of Tharpu Chuli, most attempts are combined with an attempt on Tharpu Chuli as a warm-up. The access is more challenging and the mountain is as well so few commercial groups tackle it. The approach to base camp is dangerous, exposed to rock fall while ascending a moraine.

Manang region peaks

Pisang Peak 6091m.

This is often touted as the easiest of the peaks near Manang but this is to considerably under-estimating the difficulty of the rock sections, especially if the least bit wet or snow-covered. Chulu Far East is more straightforward yet receives surprisingly little attention. This should not be attempted as a short side trip of three days enough time must be given for acclimatisation.

Chulu East approx 6200m/20,336ft and Chulu Far East 6060m.

The east peaks are accessed from the same base camp but are quite different mountains. Far East should be the \’Island Peak\’ of the Annapurnas, straightforward yet fun. There are two routes to base camp both are interesting. Then from a high camp clambering over rough, steep scree leads to a broad glaciated ridge with slopes of varying angles. On some sections fixed rope would be useful for a larger group but for smaller teams climbing alpine style with several ropes will do.

Chulu East is quite a different proposition requiring much more commitment and alpine experience. From the col on the glaciated ridge you have to descend and cross a broken glacier then climb steep scree slopes to gain a relatively straightforward but high ridge. Setting up a second high camp (camp 1) is a necessity.

Chulu West 6419m.and Chulu Central 6558m.

The West peak is the Mera Peak of the Annapurnas, little more than a long tough snow slog for a high summit. The difference is that between base camp and high camp the steep loose rock requires fixing ropes. The experienced and sure-footed can get away with a couple of 20m sections while larger groups require something like 300m. Acclimatization is the key to success, and a little luck. Not everyone, even well acclimatized, can cope with sleeping at 5600m. Also if there is a single cloud in the area, it will be on Chulu West. The Central peak is not attempted by commercial groups, being an even longer slog, with a sometimes tricky rock section to the actual summit

Other Annapurna region peaks

The peaks marked with a * are peaks classified by the Ministry of Tourism as Expedition peaks.

Thorungtse 6032m* and Khatung Kang 6484m

Lying immediately south of the Thorung La, many a mountaineer has admired these peaks while crossing the pass, and not a few have more than admired it. Moderate mostly unbroken glacier slopes and short rock scramble lead to a false summit, which has often been soloed. I have called this peak Thorungtse here. The real summit, Khatung Kang, requires far more commitment and climbing steeper more exposed slopes.

Dhampus Peak 6013m/6035m.

Best approached from Dhampus Pass or from Hidden Valley, this peak is little more than a rock scramble in good conditions, although there is also a short stretch of ice to be crossed too. From the summit the Annapurnas and Niligiris smack you in the face with their size and sheerness, Tukuche and Dhaulagiri make you gulp, they are so close, and Manaslu, shimmering 100kms away, looks too huge to be true. And the view stretches into Mustang to the Tibetan border. Yes, it is the perfect \”trekking peak\” and the Ministry of Tourism are idiots for keeping this as an expedition peak.

Khumbu (Everest) region peaks

For more info on each of these peaks consult the 4th edition of \”Trekking in the Everest Region\” by Jamie McGuinness, a Trailblazers guide book available at good book stores worldwide.

Imjatse/Island Peak 6173m.

The name was coined by Shipton, who thought this peak looked like \’an island in a sea of ice\’. Finding a route to the top could be a challenge in itself were it not for the fact that as many as 30 people a day reach the summit during the busy season, October to November. This does not, however, detract from the fact that it\’s a hard climb that many people fail to complete, either because of a badly-planned acclimatization itinerary, or because they set off too late in the morning or the winds become too strong. Often in spring, deep snow makes even reaching the Base Camp difficult. Before attempting this peak it\’s essential to include an acclimatization trip (eg to Lobuche and Kala Pattar or any of the other Chukhung valley peaks).

Mera 6476m.

Mera is one of the most popular of the trekking peaks and, despite being considered little more than a walk to the summit, it is also one of the more dangerous. It\’s often attempted by people who have flown in to Lukla and not given themselves adequate time to acclimatize. Several people each year pay for their lack of awareness (or their foolhardiness) with their lives. The ignorance of some trekking companies that sell fast expeditions cna be very dangerous to the welfare of group members. Typically out of a group of 10 members two to four might make the summit, perhaps eight or nine will feel sick and two or three mightn\’t even make the Mera La. In most groups at least one person will get ataxia and without immediate descent death is only a day or so away.

There are many itinerary alternatives that provide better acclimatization preparation. If time is at a premium then consider visiting Namche first or flying in to Phaplu and taking the alternative Pangkongma route. While superior to the shortest itineraries these still bring you to altitude at a rate that is slightly too quick for some people (a course of Diamox may help). With more time why not walk in from Jiri (the bulk of the crew need only join you at Lukla) or for more adventure, try the Arun route via the Surkie La and Panch Pokhari. For better preparation first trek to Kala Pattar then over the Amphu Labtsa. There are many more variations, the only limits are time and your imagination.

Mera has two summits. The easier one attempted by most groups, is accessed by taking a higher line to the eastern 6461m/21,197ft peak, with its steep last 20m or so. The true 6476m/21,246ft summit can either be reached by a drop and traverse, beyond many people by this stage, or by initially taking a more westerly lower line out of the high camp for a steep haul to the true summit. Note that both of these routes are crevassed.

Lobuche East 6105m.

This is the hardest of the trekking peaks that ordinary commercial groups attempt and no groups climb to the true summit, very few even climb to the false summit which is along a knife-edge ridge. Instead climbers normally stop when reaching the summit ridge. The average angle for the entire climb is not steep you climb on the ridge from the flat section 2/3rds of the way down the ridge) but there are some areas of messy seracs that require two axes, front pointing and belaying. The ridge route is sometimes easier.

Pokalde/Dolma Ri 5794m.

When snow-free and with clear weather, the top of Pokalde is a great place to have lunch. Although below 6000m or 20,000ft, the view is reward enough for a few hours\’ scrambling. There\’s a splendid base camp by the lakes below the Kongma La. From here, the the route is up a steep but straightforward trail. The last 50 vertical metres to the summit may require a rope and slings . There are two routes up, with a traverse quite possible. Novices, however, may well feel more secure with a real rope and harness backed by slings and perhaps a simple rock rack.

Kongma Tse 5817m.

Once called Mehra, this can be climbed from the east side, a steep scramble.

Parcharmo 6273m.

There is some confusion over the height the Schneider maps say 6273m, the Nepal Mountaineering Association has the height at 6187m/20,298ft and surveyors on the first expeditions calculated it to be 6318m/20,700ft. However it\’s over the magic numbers 6000m and 20,000ft.

There\’s a reasonable view of the least difficult route up as you approach Parcharmo and from the Tashi Labtsa but a cursory glance here may lead you to underestimate the difficulties. Although of modest angle, the access to the ridge is crevassed and further up seracs tower. Basic equipment should include a rope (or two) with a few stakes and screws, and two axes (at least for the leader).

Ramdung-Go 5930m.

This is usually climbed from the north and combined with a crossing of the Tashi Labtsa. The southern approach is long, difficult to follow and crevassed but otherwise isn\’t steep.

Very close to Lukla although it can be approached from 3 directions. Its razor ridges provide challenge for the serious and well-prepared.

Other Khumbu region peaks

These are illegal to climb but shouldn\’t be…

Kangchung Shar (pyramid) 6103m.

The twin peaks of Kangchung are eye-catching from all the high points around the Gokyo region, sticking up like islands from the surroundings. The Sherpa name means \’small mountain\’. The Schneider map marks a pass between the peaks and approaching from the south is fairly straightforward up an icefall. The north side however is impossible, not a pass at all. The eastern Kangchung (Shar) is if viewed from Knobby View, a steep pyramid. Camping on the col will give the best chance of success. The angle of the snow on the face changes season to season sometimes it depends on wind loading. However, expect the steepest pitch to be around 60 degrees and an average of 40 or so degrees.

Kangchung Nup (Cholo) 6089m.

The west (Nup) peak is best attempted from a rock saddle south-west of Surprise Lake. This rock ridge meets a snow gully that 200m of rope works perfectly on. This brings you to the small summit. From here the ridge may be possible to traverse in good conditions; otherwise drop down the gully (flip your 200m of rope over) and climb on the face although it isn\’t all easy. You need a 60m climbing rope for this section.

Changri Lho 6189m and the unnamed pass 5690m

Slightly north of the Tso La is another pass. It is considerably higher but except for variable conditions for the last 10m is quite straightforward. The approaches are gentle although crevassed. From the Gokyo side access the glacier by skirting under the Kangchung Shar peak. On the Dzonglha side the route is lightly cairned to the glacier. From the pass itself it is possible to ascend Changri Nup (unnamed on the Schneider map). The ridge is a series of seracs and under most conditions requires some ice-climbing gear.

Langtang and Ganesh Himal peaks

Naya Kanga 5846m.

You can climb high without a rope in good conditions but this would be a mistake. Take some fixed rope (200m?) or a couple of climbing ropes and see if you can get to the real summit.

Paldor 5928m.

This is a satisfying peak, even if a fraction under 6000m. It is crevassed and the best route isn\’t obvious; go to the col first and then either climb the ridge with ropes but nothing too challenging or head around the crevassed back for a more straightforward ~45 degree ridge. In good conditions traversing the mountain is possible.

Khumbu Region

Machermo / Phari Lapcha 6017m (6273m)

This peak is above Machermo settlement in the Gokyo region. There are two peaks relatively close together while there is no obvious easy route up visible from Machermo it isn\’t difficult once you get close.

Kyazo Ri 6186m

This is a classic peak, isolated and has still barely been climbed. It is not an easy approach and don\’t underestimate how long it takes to get to a base camp in the Kyazo valley (also pronounced Gyajok and Kyajo).

Nirekha 6159m

Is situated between Gokyo and Lobuche. This peak is between the Kangchung Twins and Lobuche West. On maps of the region north of the Cho La is another potential pass, the peak is accessible from there. While from a simple look it doesn\’t seem suitable as a commercial peak, ie for inexperienced groups with a guide, it doesn\’t look horribly dangerous or particularly difficult either.

Ombigaichen 6340m

This mountain is just north of Mingbo La and SE of Ama Dablam. It used to be known as Puma Dablam.

Abi (5551m)

Lies in the Mahalangur range also called Api this is a rock peak just south of Lobuche East. Despite the low altitude compared to most others it is a real climb, all on rock in good conditions.

Lobuje West 6145m

Is an interesting peak to climb great adventure but technical. Often spelt Lobuche.

Other regions: Kanchenjunga

Bokta 6143m

Kanchenjunga region. This is not at all an easy climb there is no straightforward way up that either. This peak should only be attempted by real mountaineers (not by weekend or commercial mountaineers…) in good conditions.

Bokta\’s first ascent was by a Slovenian team in 1991 and then a search of the internet reveals in 1992 some Germans thought they climbed it, however they were on another nearby mountain.

Chekigo 6257m

Rolwaling region, Gaurishankar range.

Larkya Peak 6010m

Manaslu. Can anyone find an easy or safe way up this peak? Plenty of teams have climbed a mountain that could have been Larkya, or perhaps it is another easier peak nearby – and you should get a permit for Larkyaeven if you attempt the peak close by.

Langsisa Ri 6427m

Technical but will appeal, perhaps, although the stunning Gangchenpo (Fluted Peak) nearby will appeal more!

Yala Peak 5732m

Langtang. A plod up but watch out for crevasses. Previously this was climbed without permits and often guided by cowboys from Kyangjin. This is not really a peak and more of a bump on the ridge, and I don\’t think it should be on the list.

Showing trips from 1 to 10 of total 18 trips.

Yala Peak (5732 m)

Destination : Nepal

Grade : Moderate

Season : Spring & Autumn

Yala Peak climbing trek is most suitable for climber who wish to stand on a Himalayan summit but have a limited amount of time. The climbing offers the best experience of trekking and climbing in the Langtang Himalaya region. The views of many beautiful mountains – Langtang Lirung (7246m), Lenpo Gang 7083m), Dorje Lakpa (6990m) […]

Mardi Himal Trekking Peak (5587m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Mardi Himal is the most southerly peak of the Annapurna range. It is the lowest and least climbed peak. The photograph of the Mardi Himal (in the foreground) was taken in 1953 by Baisl Goodfellow and it drew the attention of western climbers. The first ascent of Mardi Himal was in 1961. The first route […]

Equipment for Peak Climbing in Nepal

Destination : Nepal

Equipment for Peak Climbing in Nepal The following is a list of personal equipment you will need to bring with you neccessary for climbing many of the trekking peaks in Nepal.The company provides all ropes needed for the particular climb you are attempting including fixed ropes and main ropes and all the camping equipment needed.If […]

Cholatse 6440m Climb

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Located in Khumbu Himalayan region Cholatse is also known as Jobo Lhaptshan, Cholatse Peak is a very interesting and at the same time very challenging peak. A very difficult peak which requires great climbing skills. Not many climbers have been able to scale this peak.

Ramdungo Trekking Peak (5925m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Ramdung Go lies in the upper Rolwalling region south of Na. It is an excellent peak that surrounds the Yalung La. The peak was first climbed in 1952 by a team led by Bill Murray. The normal route for climbing this peak is through the glaciers of the North East face and the route is […]

Pokhalde Trekking Peak (5732m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

The first ascent of Pokhalde peak was in 1953 via Kongma La along its north ridge by John Hunt and his Everest Expedition Team. The peak looks like a crenulated rocky ridge dominated by the huge bulk of Nuptse. The peak has small glacier, which is best reached along the ridge rising from the Kongma […]

Pachhermo Trekking Peak (6187m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Pachhermo peak is an eye-catching snow peak lying south of the Tashi Lapcha pass in the Rolwaling region. The peak was first ascended in 1955. The face of northwest ridge is a uniform slope broken by a series of crevasses that rise from the rocky lower buttresses above the Drolambau glaciers in the west. Highlights […]

Paldor Trekking Peak (5732m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Paldor is one of the best and popular trekking peaks in Ganesh Himal region. This peak can be climbed from North East, South East, West and South West Ridge. Highlights of the Trekking Peaks Some superb views of Ganesh Himal, Manaslu, Annapurna ranges, tranquil lakes, tremendous waterfall along the trail, majority of Tamang people and […]

Pisang Peak (6091m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Pisang Peak most often picked for climbing lies in Annapurna region of Nepal in the recent years. It is actually positioned on the way to the uppermost pass of the earth. Pisang Peak lies higher than Pisang village and yak grazing lands in a constant tilt of ice to the ending summit. Pisang Peak ascend […]

Lobuche (6119m)

Destination : Nepal

Season : Spring & Autumn

Lobuche has two summits, east and west, heights of 6119m and 6145m respectively. A continuous rim ties them but there is a sharp gap and a considerable distance between these two summits. The east is recognized as a trekking peak whereas the west is identified as an Expedition. The first summit of Lobuche east peak […]