That’s Ryan patiently waiting for a spot at Bar Nestor. He looked a bit disgruntled so I popped across the lane to Bar Zeruko whilst we waited.

Bar Nestor is where the locals eat. It’s an institution and known for ‘the holy trinity’.

Fresh ox heart tomatoes chopped into chunks, splashed with olive oil, a little vinegar, plenty of salt and served with bread to mop up all the oil.

Padron peppers flash-fried in a hot pan with olive oil then doused with salt.

The Txuleta! A Basque cut of beef - sirloin on the bone cooked slowly over hot coals. Then sliced, YES doused with salt and served just like that.

Incredible. We’d go back time and time again. If you do make it there, try your luck on getting dibs on a slice of tortilla. The owner’s wife makes two, one for lunch and one for dinner, and slices it into 12 pieces. If you get in early you might be able to get your hands on an elusive slice. Once it goes, that’s it.