That delayed Anderson & Sheppard

[Top photo added since this post was originally written, as the bottom one distorts the shape of the suit rather]

As requested, here is my Anderson & Sheppard suit. A 13-ounce, grey Prince of Wales cloth with pale blue overcheck, made up into three-piece suit with outer right ticket pocket.

The two things I noticed immediately were the high armholes and gentler shoulder. The former gives you greater freedom of movement but – owing to the large armhole – a smooth top to the sleeve. The latter is more of a style issue, and you could argue one that suits me less given I have sloping shoulders already. But I have jackets with even less padding and I think it’s just a question of the look.

I deliberately had this commissioned in a cloth that means I can wear the jacket separately on its own. I was also impressed with the pattern matching – something highlighted by the detailed check. On the jacket the matching across the front piece, welt and then pocket flaps is nice, particularly across both the main and ticket pocket.

And I noticed that the trousers are fastened with a button inside the waist, one more above the fly and then a metal hook at the end. I’ve never seen a button in the middle like this – usually it’s a hook in the middle and button on the end, or hook in both places. Mr Hitchcock says it is their classic fastening for a single breasted and I can certainly see that it makes sense – there is more freedom of movement in the middle, above the fly, as the buttonhole is horizontal.

I had two fittings, a forward and then a final. At the second fitting the only changes were a narrowing of the skirt and a slight shortening of one sleeve. The accuracy of the fit at the first fitting was impressive, particularly given that it involved only a quick set of measurements by Mr Hitchcock. The cloth here looks a little ruffled – but then it has yet to settle to my shape.

Shirt from Emma Willis, tie from Hermes and handkerchief from Sciarpa.

without a douby the blue double brested wedding suit is so much more you.Dont know but somehow this seems a bit less stylish not what I expected, perhaps it that you have a better relationship with your other tailor who realy knows you and your body.Some acient wit once said find a tailor that loves you and you will have wonderful clothing and less in the bank.

You’re broad across the beam (the lower beam) and need something in the shoulders on both. However, this suit is the business and, a little more relaxed and I’d have assumed that you were Prince Michael’s secret son.

Hi Simon–I love the fact that you a walking, talking sartorial lab. (As in laboratory, not Labrador.) You put yourself out there, willing to risk critical feedback. (Most of us make bad calls from time to time, or at the very least, don’t always get it together as well as we could.) Your petri dish serves as a looking glass to better see ourselves. Very grateful. Thanks! –JohnGrrr– For some reason am forced to post as anonymous. Won’t accept URL.

Like a few other posters I felt that something was a little “off” with the jacket. I think I’ve figured out what it is. The jacket is not intended to be a 3-roll-2, yet you have the top button undone. It throws off the balance a little bit. It might also benefit from a little more waist supression?

That being said, you look better dressed than 99% of most guys! Keep up the great posts.

Maybe it’s your arm position, but for those of us under 5’10” and fit or slim I always think a more form fitting silhouette is preferred. I would suggest a little more waist suppression. It will lengthen you a bit. Of course most of my suits are cut in the American style with little waist suppression and my Korean trained tailor is loathe to bring it in too much. That said, on a bespoke garment, I would prefer a more formed waist and side. That said, there is a really long discussion on Style Forum right now about A&S and the significant side structure and suppression they provided on a forum member’s new sport jacket.

I like the shoulder quite a bit and am drawn to the A&S, Mahon, DeBoise shoulder. It definitely looks good.

I would love to see a closer view of the fabric and perhaps a full length shot of you in the suit.

hi simon, wondered if you would be able to help me with something that i noticed on the above suit & also during one of my fittings with my tailor (who is ex A&S incidently). i have comisioned a single breasted suit & noticed when buttoned up there is an inch or so of room between the button which fastens up & the upper stomach area, it looks similar to how the jacket you are wearing fastens up. my experience of wearing RTW is that jackets often create a slight X shape here & hold everything in as it were as there is some pull. is it desirable to have some slight space here, not sure if its a good or bad thing tbh?

If you mean that it isn’t too tight to the body at that point, then it’s nothing to do with RTW or bespoke, it’s just a question of how tight you like.

And I do wish people would stop analysing this suit, the picture is just terrible, that’s all there is to it! Have a look at other A&S posts for a much better idea of the fit on this and other A&S suits.

ok thanks simon, i was just curious if there was an ‘optimum’ space between the button which fastens & the body, there are all sorts of ‘rules’ that tailors use to measure good fit but have never come across any guidelines for how tight a jacket should fit around the midriff when the button is done up apart from a clear ‘X’ forming isnt something to be desired.

wasnt trying to critique this suit simon, i think it looks v much like A&S style to me, the whole ethos of their cut is a relaxed, soft fitting suit & what you have fits their look to my eye anyway. i dont know who the emperor’s tailor was, but i would hazard a guess at A&S, in the below link the suit he is wearing looks similarly cut;