Drank: Tsunami Stout (Pelican Pub & Brewery)

As winter clamps its toothy maw, brewers begin trucking
out their big, goonish stouts. Some of these seasonals are worth the
fuss and price (Deschutes’ The Abyss, for example) while many others are
lopsided thanks to hyper-inflated alcohol content, overblown flavor
infusions or ill-fated barreling experiments. Pelican Pub &
Brewery’s Tsunami Stout isn’t part of that sad-sack group. For starters,
the Pacific City brewer’s 7 percent ABV, foreign-style stout is
available year-round. And, at around $5 a bottle, you won’t need to tuck
it away for a special occasion. It certainly tastes expensive and
limited, though. With a color only a few minutes from midnight and a
thick but clean pour, it’s got a satisfying, but not overpowering,
mealiness. Big, roasty cocoa flavors dominate, but hopheads will find
that Magnum and Willamette hops impart a slice of crisp citrus and a
cherry topper. Recommended.