Rubesco 2010, Lungarotti, Italy red, $16.90, SAQ #41947. It has been years since I’ve tasted this wine, so going back to it felt very familiar. If authenticity matters to you, this is hard to beat. So very Italian with its aged fruit quality — plums, cherries and darker berries. Signature sangiovese acidity, touch of mineral earthiness and only 12.5 per cent alcohol. Serve at 16 C. Drink now-2016. Food-pairing idea: pizza, spaghetti with tomato sauce.

$17-$22: Mid-priced marvelStraightforward guzzler goes with anything

Xinomavro 2012, Domaine Thymiopoulos, Greece red, $18.70, SAQ #12212220. It’s back and better than ever. New vintage, but the same elegant nose, explosive red fruits and razor-thin tannins. This is a guzzler that works on its own, or pretty well with anything you can dream up. Simple, straightforward and so tasty. Excellent lunch wine as well. Serve at 16 C. Drink now-2016. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, can pair with stronger fish, ratatouille.

$22 and up: For a treatA touch of everything: fruit, floral, mineral

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010, Clos Saint-Michel, France red, $41.50, SAQ #11192247. There’s something so distinctive about Châteauneuf-du-Pape, even when the blend includes almost equal parts syrah and mourvèdre, as opposed to being dominated by grenache. There is always a very particular mineral note, which adds freshness underneath the silky fruit. This has it, with floral notes, ripe fruit and a seductively rich texture. Serve at 18 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: leg of lamb.

Rosé of the weekA field of lavender, fruit, with a dash of spice

Côtes de Provence 2013, Pétale de Rose, Régine Sumeire, France rosé, $19.95, SAQ #425496. No surprises here — it’s really good. Don’t be fooled by the lack of colour, Sumeire always manages to make a rosé with torque, without sacrificing any of the delicate aromatics and texture that I love in a rosé. The aromatics are so pretty, a field of lavender with field berries followed by a spicy finish. This vintage made me want to eat a Bouillabaisse. Serve at 8-12 C. Drink now-2016. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, fish especially with herbs, salmon tartare.