If you don't plan on sealing your trunk off from the rest of the cab, face them back towards the trunk. That will get your best results. 6 inches from the trunk lid is the sweet spot.

If you want to go all out baller like some of the guys on here, face subs forward, seal up the back deck and around the sides of the box. Much more spl, no destructive waves.

But Jeffrey, what about your box? You have subs up and port back?

I do indeed, and I have destructive waves when I have the windows all up. With the windows down, the waves aren't bouncing off of each other. Plus my trunk rattles like no other. My best choice now is to wall it.

Jeffrey, I see guys with spare tire enclosures. How do they sound?

Depends. I'm going to pick on Sec-Z for a bit. He used a fiberglass mold of his spare tire well, and has his angled back. Wise choice. Minetti has his straight up, however, he has a special enclosure. He's far enough away from the trunk for rattling

Sure. 20's and very low 30's are good for home theater and some ground pounding. They're a flat response. Mid 30's are good for daily, a nice peak and slow roll-off around the tuning frequency. Anything above 39 is getting into an spl tune, which sounds like crap on music, but peaks where you want. Our cars peak at 47ish hertz, so a tune around 45 or so is the money shot for an SPL build for a 3rd gen car.

Cause I dont feel like starting a new thread an maybe this will help someone else out.

My amp has 18 db bass boost at 45 hz now wouldnt I want to use a 45 hz test tone to set gain rather than a 50 hz? Since I set my gain with a 50 hz, I would be clipping a 45 hz tone right? Because my amp output would go up for a 45 hz tone. Therefore clipping said signal.

I cant test for sure because I lack an osciliscope. But I have noticed some clipping on Airforces which is a 45 hz song.

with the preimium stereo/upgraded are just the rear speakers on the amp ??? i unpluged my factory amp and the fronts still work but the rears didnt . could i use those C clip splicers and just run wires to the aftermarket speakers and leave the stock amp unpluged? how well will the stock radio handle aftermarket speakers. im completly new to this kinda thing on this car. my ford Escorts were easyer to hook up then this thing is

So I'm going to add another little helpful tip. Do you have wires to run but can't get them fed through a rubber grommet? Well get yourself a piece of 3/8 brake line, cut the ends off, feed the wire into it, and voila, no more wrestling with the wire.

maybe in our cavaliers with their lovely floppy grommets, but when you get into stiffer grommets (ie: Ford) the brake line is really nice. Mac tools sells what is basically a 3/8" screwdriver with a hollow tube right through it, same idea.

Well, there's a stupid ass ground in the radio harness, and there's a stupid ass heating duct with a few screws that is metal right below the radio, or you could even get fancy and run a stupid ass wire to the stupid ass battery for a stupid ass ground