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Ocracoke’s whitewashed beacon still shines

The Ocracoke Lighthouse stands beside an oil-storage shed, which houses a generator today.

Bill Hand / Halifax Media Services

By Bill Hand Bill.Hand@Newbernsj.com

Published: Monday, July 14, 2014 at 10:00 AM.

Editor’s note: This is the second story in a series about North Carolina’s lighthouses.

OCRACOKE | There is no McDonald’s on Ocracoke and that is a big part of its charm.

Ocracoke — the island, the village, the lighthouse — is a kind of three-in-one trinity, featuring just about everything: environment, history, fishing and swimming, camping, old-style vacation village charm ... even a ghost town if you’re game for a short ferry ride to tackle it. The only thing lacking (thank God) is a mall.

Since this series is all about lighthouses, let’s start there.

The Outer Banks have a history of lighthouses built after the failures of their predecessors, and Ocracoke wasn’t the first to be built in this area. Knowing how dangerous this inlet could be — Sir Richard Grenville’s ship ran aground as early as 1585 — the colonial assembly was passing laws to put up beacons in 1715.

In 1803, nearby Shell Castle Island received a lighthouse. It was made by Henry Dearborn of wood, with a shingle roof, but perhaps the Almighty wasn’t pleased, for it was taken out by lightning in 1818.Five years later, in 1832, Ocracoke’s famliar white-stuccoed brick tower was completed. Rising just 75 feet above sea level and 65 feet from the ground, it is dwarfed by the other six major lighthouses. But its light can still be seen for more than 16 miles.

In planning this article, I had already been to all the lighthouses but Old Baldy, and of them all I charmed, in an odd way, by Ocracoke the most. If one decides to conquer the four northernmost lighthouses (Ocracoke, Hatteras, Bodie and Currituck) in two days, and one is traveling from New Bern, it makes sense to start with the southernmost. But as Boromir of Hobbit fame might say, “One does not simply drive into Ocracoke.”

It takes a ferry.

The Cedar Island Ferry is the closest from New Bern — about 75 miles. Swan Quarter also does the Ocracoke route, both rides charge (price varies depending on how you plan to get there, and you’d be wise to call for reservations at 800-By-Ferry) and last two and a half hours, so come prepared to relax. On board there is a passenger lounge with dollar-a-cup coffee, but the real action, if you’re game, is to wander the decks and visit the other travelers.

Once you’re on the island, have a look at the lighthouse and then plan your day be your desires.

The lighthouse, by the way, is part of the national park system and is not open for climbing, but if you luck out you can at least get inside and have a look up the stairwell. There are no official hours for this: you sort of have to luck out. It helps to ask at the welcome center where the rangers can be friendly and helpful. If you catch Lori Marois, who let me and my wife in, tell her we said “Hey.”

The pure whiteness of the lighthouse against a blue or cloudy sky is enchantingly pretty, especially as you approach it walking past the old keeper’s house (now the residence of the head park ranger) and see its shaft rising over a canopy of trees. A white picket fence along the way gives it a charming, old-time feel. There’s even a huge yellow cat that tends to show up, laying on the walkway and rolling about hoping for a friendly rub.

Beyond the lighthouse there is:

Plenty of history. This is the place where, in 1718, Blackbeard died in a bloody fight with Lt. Robert Maynard and where, during World War II, German U-boats made life miserable and short for merchant marines. You might take in the British Cemetery, owned by Britain but maintained by U.S.Coast Guard, where four sailors rest: their bodies washed up on shore after their ship, the Bedfordshire, was sunk in 1942.

Ocracoke is the land of private cemeteries: 80 of them are claimed to exist in the town.

If you idle about the local shops you can meet long-time residents, such as the Austin brothers, who can fill your ears with tales of the old times and, depending on the time you’re spending here, you can hire a ferry to Portsmouth Village. This island community, located just south west of Ocracoke, has a cemetery, houses and a church dating from as early as 1850 and as recently as 1927. Founded in 1753, the community served as a lightening port — that is, cargo was shifted from ocean-going craft to shallow-draft craft that could ply the sounds. New shipping lanes opened by hurricanes were the beginning of the end for the community and the last resident left in 1971.

Do bring bug spray if you visit: The island is famous for mosquitoes and gnats.

Clamming and fishing. The island is an old fishing village, after all. A short excursion will set you right into the Gulf Stream.

Swimming and beaches. Ocracoke is known for its miles and miles of unguarded beaches. In 2007, in fact, it was declared the best beach in the country by Stephen Leatherman, an ecologist who ranks national beaches every year. As part of the National Seashore, these beaches are protected from development. Of course, that means you will find no beach houses or snack stands along the way.

Shopping and dining. There are loads of quaint of shops and restaurants scattered around the little town.

If you decide to make Ocracoke a stay-over there are plenty hotels and campgrounds, the latter both state run and private.

When your visit is over, you can hop Highway 12 and drive the 16 miles north to the Cape Hatteras Ferry.

In the next installment, we’ll look at the king of the North American lighthouses: the beacon in Cape Hatteras.

About Ocracoke Lighthouse

Height of tower: 65 feet

Height of focal plane: 75 feet

Lens: Visible 14 nautical miles

Built: 1823

Steps: 80

Quick facts: Ocracoke is the oldest operating lighthouse in North Carolina and the second-oldest in the nation. The lighthouse and keeper’s quarters were built for $11,360 ($217,617 in 2012 dollars). The lighthouse was automated in 1926, when its last keeper was dismissed.

For more information, visit Ocracokevillage.com.

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Editor’s note: This is the second story in a series about North Carolina’s lighthouses.

OCRACOKE | There is no McDonald’s on Ocracoke and that is a big part of its charm.

Ocracoke — the island, the village, the lighthouse — is a kind of three-in-one trinity, featuring just about everything: environment, history, fishing and swimming, camping, old-style vacation village charm ... even a ghost town if you’re game for a short ferry ride to tackle it. The only thing lacking (thank God) is a mall.

Since this series is all about lighthouses, let’s start there.

The Outer Banks have a history of lighthouses built after the failures of their predecessors, and Ocracoke wasn’t the first to be built in this area. Knowing how dangerous this inlet could be — Sir Richard Grenville’s ship ran aground as early as 1585 — the colonial assembly was passing laws to put up beacons in 1715.

In 1803, nearby Shell Castle Island received a lighthouse. It was made by Henry Dearborn of wood, with a shingle roof, but perhaps the Almighty wasn’t pleased, for it was taken out by lightning in 1818.Five years later, in 1832, Ocracoke’s famliar white-stuccoed brick tower was completed. Rising just 75 feet above sea level and 65 feet from the ground, it is dwarfed by the other six major lighthouses. But its light can still be seen for more than 16 miles.

In planning this article, I had already been to all the lighthouses but Old Baldy, and of them all I charmed, in an odd way, by Ocracoke the most. If one decides to conquer the four northernmost lighthouses (Ocracoke, Hatteras, Bodie and Currituck) in two days, and one is traveling from New Bern, it makes sense to start with the southernmost. But as Boromir of Hobbit fame might say, “One does not simply drive into Ocracoke.”

It takes a ferry.

The Cedar Island Ferry is the closest from New Bern — about 75 miles. Swan Quarter also does the Ocracoke route, both rides charge (price varies depending on how you plan to get there, and you’d be wise to call for reservations at 800-By-Ferry) and last two and a half hours, so come prepared to relax. On board there is a passenger lounge with dollar-a-cup coffee, but the real action, if you’re game, is to wander the decks and visit the other travelers.

Once you’re on the island, have a look at the lighthouse and then plan your day be your desires.

The lighthouse, by the way, is part of the national park system and is not open for climbing, but if you luck out you can at least get inside and have a look up the stairwell. There are no official hours for this: you sort of have to luck out. It helps to ask at the welcome center where the rangers can be friendly and helpful. If you catch Lori Marois, who let me and my wife in, tell her we said “Hey.”

The pure whiteness of the lighthouse against a blue or cloudy sky is enchantingly pretty, especially as you approach it walking past the old keeper’s house (now the residence of the head park ranger) and see its shaft rising over a canopy of trees. A white picket fence along the way gives it a charming, old-time feel. There’s even a huge yellow cat that tends to show up, laying on the walkway and rolling about hoping for a friendly rub.

Beyond the lighthouse there is:

Plenty of history. This is the place where, in 1718, Blackbeard died in a bloody fight with Lt. Robert Maynard and where, during World War II, German U-boats made life miserable and short for merchant marines. You might take in the British Cemetery, owned by Britain but maintained by U.S.Coast Guard, where four sailors rest: their bodies washed up on shore after their ship, the Bedfordshire, was sunk in 1942.

Ocracoke is the land of private cemeteries: 80 of them are claimed to exist in the town.

If you idle about the local shops you can meet long-time residents, such as the Austin brothers, who can fill your ears with tales of the old times and, depending on the time you’re spending here, you can hire a ferry to Portsmouth Village. This island community, located just south west of Ocracoke, has a cemetery, houses and a church dating from as early as 1850 and as recently as 1927. Founded in 1753, the community served as a lightening port — that is, cargo was shifted from ocean-going craft to shallow-draft craft that could ply the sounds. New shipping lanes opened by hurricanes were the beginning of the end for the community and the last resident left in 1971.

Do bring bug spray if you visit: The island is famous for mosquitoes and gnats.

Clamming and fishing. The island is an old fishing village, after all. A short excursion will set you right into the Gulf Stream.

Swimming and beaches. Ocracoke is known for its miles and miles of unguarded beaches. In 2007, in fact, it was declared the best beach in the country by Stephen Leatherman, an ecologist who ranks national beaches every year. As part of the National Seashore, these beaches are protected from development. Of course, that means you will find no beach houses or snack stands along the way.

Shopping and dining. There are loads of quaint of shops and restaurants scattered around the little town.

If you decide to make Ocracoke a stay-over there are plenty hotels and campgrounds, the latter both state run and private.

When your visit is over, you can hop Highway 12 and drive the 16 miles north to the Cape Hatteras Ferry.

In the next installment, we’ll look at the king of the North American lighthouses: the beacon in Cape Hatteras.

About Ocracoke Lighthouse

Height of tower: 65 feet

Height of focal plane: 75 feet

Lens: Visible 14 nautical miles

Built: 1823

Steps: 80

Quick facts: Ocracoke is the oldest operating lighthouse in North Carolina and the second-oldest in the nation. The lighthouse and keeper’s quarters were built for $11,360 ($217,617 in 2012 dollars). The lighthouse was automated in 1926, when its last keeper was dismissed.