Tacolicious review: Chic meets hip in the Mission

Published 4:00 am, Thursday, March 8, 2012

Diners enjoy dinner at Tacolicious in San Francisco Calif., on Monday, March 5th, 2012.

Diners enjoy dinner at Tacolicious in San Francisco Calif., on Monday, March 5th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey

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The Albacore Tuna Tostadas at Tacolicious in San Francisco Calif., is seen on Monday, March 5th, 2012.

The Albacore Tuna Tostadas at Tacolicious in San Francisco Calif., is seen on Monday, March 5th, 2012.

Photo: John Storey

Tacolicious review: Chic meets hip in the Mission

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When my colleague Amanda Gold reviewed the Tacolicious debut in San Francisco's Marina district two years ago, she joked that she half expected that the i's would be dotted with hearts, given the perky name, the upscale clientele and dishes with names like the Marina Girl salad.

When Team T-Lish members looked to expand to another location last year, they landed in the Mission. My first question when I visited the sleek Valencia Street spot was whether the new restaurant could bridge the gap between Marina chic and Mission hip. Although the Marina Girl salad briefly changed her name to the Skinny Jean, the answer is definitely yes.

The Valencia menu is nearly identical to the Marina location, and the kitchen delivers the same quality and flavor. However, the vibe is more laid back, in no small part due to spreading the same number of seats (55) over a much larger space, a 30-seat patio that fronts an enchanting mural by Chronicle illustrator Paul Madonna depicting the Mission, a room for private parties, plus Mosto, an adjoining Tequila bar with a separate snack menu.

Tim Lincecum and other Giants who are patrons of the Marina T-Lish have yet to discover the new restaurant, but Faria expects that will happen after spring training.

The T-Lish menu features "snacks," (i.e. starters, some of which can double as entrees), sides such as Rancho Gordo beans and, of course, the centerpiece: tacos.

T-Lish newbies can be easily fooled into ordering too much food. The eight varieties of tacos are $3.95 each, four for $13 and 10 for $31, but at about 4 ounces each, these dwarf your standard taqueria and truck fare. Unless you've got a ridiculous appetite, one snack, two tacos and possibly a side, along with the constant resupply of the freshly made chips from La Palma tortillas and house-made salsa, are more than enough for two to split and feel full.

Of the snacks, my favorite is the albacore tostadas ($10.95) with delicate sashimi-grade sustainable fish served atop chipotle-spiced mayonnaise on crisped tortillas and topped with caramelized leek and avocado.

Yes, that Marina Girl salad ($9.95) is worth a date. It's a Bay Area classic, with romaine, avocado, cucumber, radishes, pumpkin seeds and cotija pulled together with a light vinaigrette that has a hint of roasted jalapeno and honey.

The enchiladas de pollo ($8.50) are small, not bathed in a sauce and sneak up to you with subtle flavors from the mildly spicy salsa ranchera, Oaxaca and cotija cheeses, and an intriguing cumin-infused crema.

Shrimp a la diabla ($10.95) is perfectly seasoned with a roasted tomato and chile sauce, but the shrimp were overcooked and dry.

In the Wonderful World of Tacos, the short rib is the standout: amazingly savory and tender, with just a hint of the guajillo chiles in which it's braised. Close seconds are the cochinita pibil (a Yucatan-style slow-roasted pork), the carnitas and the chicken mole.

On the veg front, a hearty butternut squash is paired with chard, poblano and red bell peppers and pumpkin seeds and lit up by tangy ancho recado sauce.

On the downside, the bistec (that's the one for which they dun you an extra buck) is tough and bland. On the rock cod, the breading tasted like it had been fried in oil that was on the verge of going bad.

Hot, medium and mild salsas accompany all the tacos. Although I generally pass to get the full flavor of the dish, the salsas did help the bistec and the fish.

The drink menu is straightforward, with sodas for "drivers, kids and recovering bartenders," 15 beers, 20 specialty cocktails such as the classic margarita de la casa ($9.50 per cocktail or $28 per pitcher) and dozens of Tequilas.

If you're tempted by a dessert, you'll likely groan when it arrives unless you've eaten like a bird. The churros ($7.50) are a great choice because you can take a bite, rub your midriff and box up the leftovers.

The website is up to date and informative: What more would you expect from a joint with the moniker T-Lish?

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.

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