Singlespeed & Fixed Gear"I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five.
Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

I'm picking up the last parts to finish my RG Excel and ii have a couple questions.
I want to fully put it together myself without taking it to a lbs and pops has most of the tools needed except for a lockring wrench and bb tool, which i will get from you.
but i was wondering if theres any prep i have to do on the frame for the bb and headset? I'm putting sram s300 on it do i have to get the bottom bracket faced and chased?
the headset is a vp comp from Rg do i have to do anything to the head tube? or can i just press it in

The frame is good to go - just press in the headset cups (do you have a headset press?) and install the BB.

It's funny - whenever I get a new pair of shoes, I think they're awesome for riding with clips and straps, then they break in a little and I hate them. I've yet to find the "perfect" shoe (but I guess I haven't actually be looking very hard). A good friend of mine rocks DZRs (without cutting out the sole to install a cleat) as regular riding shoes and he says they're amazing. I can see how they would be because the front part of the sole is really stiff.

Scrod on my leader 725 tr (one of the older ones), my rear wheel is a ***** to slide in or out of the dropouts. It almost just like gets stuck every few mm's. I don't know what it is and I tryed putting my wheel from the surly in there and the same thing happens. It's been like this since I bought it but i've just ignored it. Any idea on what it could be? I can post pictures of the dropout if you need to see it for yourself to check if anything is out of the norm.

Scrod on my leader 725 tr (one of the older ones), my rear wheel is a ***** to slide in or out of the dropouts. It almost just like gets stuck every few mm's. I don't know what it is and I tryed putting my wheel from the surly in there and the same thing happens. It's been like this since I bought it but i've just ignored it. Any idea on what it could be? I can post pictures of the dropout if you need to see it for yourself to check if anything is out of the norm.

If the dropout inserts are double sided, make sure the bolts are tight. If they are the single sided ones that attach with bolts from the inside, same thing. A pic may help.

Also, this "problem" is often caused by paint or powdercoat being too thick (as was the case with my BK). If that's the issue, a fine tooth file or sandpaper will do the trick.

If the dropout inserts are double sided, make sure the bolts are tight. If they are the single sided ones that attach with bolts from the inside, same thing. A pic may help.

Also, this "problem" is often caused by paint or powdercoat being too thick (as was the case with my BK). If that's the issue, a fine tooth file or sandpaper will do the trick.

Dude, it must be impossible for your girl to argue with you because your never ****ing wrong. 10 minutes later after using the tooth-file the wheel slides in like butter. Good look dude! Edit: And this whole time I thought spray-paint was my friend.

Hey Dave when I was tightening up the headset on my Kagero, I couldn't tighten the top cap very much before the fork became too stiff, like literally right when you felt any pressure from tightening it, it would feel like the headset had too much pressure on it. I ended up just tightening it barely (top cap can still spin freely) so that the fork didn't wiggle around and still could move freely..

Hey Dave when I was tightening up the headset on my Kagero, I couldn't tighten the top cap very much before the fork became too stiff, like literally right when you felt any pressure from tightening it, it would feel like the headset had too much pressure on it. I ended up just tightening it barely (top cap can still spin freely) so that the fork didn't wiggle around and still could move freely..

An I ok, or an I missing something?

notscrod, but I had the same problem. Did you install the two super thin washers(included in the baggy with the short stack top cap) in between the top bearing and the top cap? I overlooked that and had the same issue as you. The top cap should turn with the fork/bars, it shouldn't actually be contacting the top of the headtube at all.

notscrod, but I had the same problem. Did you install the two super thin washers(included in the baggy with the short stack top cap) in between the top bearing and the top cap? I overlooked that and had the same issue as you. The top cap should turn with the fork/bars, it shouldn't actually be contacting the top of the headtube at all.

Any pics? I'm fairly certain that I installed everything that came in the bag, unless I dropped it.To be honest, I don't think I remember any washers, let alone two. I think all I have in there is the dust cap, compression ring, bearings then the crown race.

I ended up not getting them. Lbs did have them and because of the extra stuff they put in the sole to make it stiffer, they didn't slide into the clips far enough. Soles are too fat.

Seems my problems wasn't that I needed a stiffer soled shoe, just one that fit better in the clips.

I happened to go to a friends house in my Vans and found the thin soled shoes to fit better (over my Asics running shoes) so I ordered a pair of of shoes from New Balance's Minimus line because of their low sole, almost barefoot fit.