Build your ride to its best total combination for the performance that you seek....not to what is most popular or someone elses favorite. Everyone else may have something about their setup that warrants the cam they have.

Build your ride to its best total combination for the performance that you seek....not to what is most popular or someone elses favorite. Everyone else may have something about their setup that warrants the cam they have.

This is really what I am looking for...what each likes and why.

Every car I have built previously has been with zero regard to driveability but I am older and wiser now and spend more time on the street than at the track.

I will say this cam has stock like driveability even without the retune and sounds great at idle. Power band is suppose to be 1500-5500 rpms and it's emissions legal. I got it new from Summit for $189.

Honestly, I'd wait and do a cam when/if you do heads. Do 1.7 rockers with the stock cam. You can find used 1.7 Crane/Cobra rockers used for $125 or less and the install is easy.

True Dat... You don't need a big cam in a 5.0 for big power. But what about the few of us who like our cars to sound good. I have a old school motorsport B cam and I love the way it sounds. My buddy had some monster cam in his mostly stock coupe with a gt-40 setup and it was the best sounding car ever IMO. I am thinking of finding a MAN CAM for my aod car (mostly stock as well).

The most popular street cam is hands down the E303 but IMO stock heads=stock cam. I am well over 400RWHP with the stock cam.

LMFAO, that is the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Stock heads = stock cam? Seriously? Call a reputable cam manufacter and have them grind you something for your setup and I promise you will make alot more power. You are handicapping yourself sticking with a OEM cam. The only time I would consider a stock cam in a performance build is in a budget turbo setup.

Back to the OP, if you want a off the shelf FMS letter cam get you a B or E cam. They both sound good and make great power.

No one has mentioned the 94-95 being very picky with cams . Steeda makes the 19 cam that is ment to work with the computor in the sn95 with no drivability issues . They sound very good and don't cause idle surge or any drivability problems . Match it with a gt40 head and intake combo and it makes great power for a street car and its manners will be like a stocker . BTW , I am not a fan of the SSI intake .

No one has mentioned the 94-95 being very picky with cams . Steeda makes the 19 cam that is ment to work with the computor in the sn95 with no drivability issues . They sound very good and don't cause idle surge or any drivability problems . Match it with a gt40 head and intake combo and it makes great power for a street car and its manners will be like a stocker . BTW , I am not a fan of the SSI intake .

I thought SN95's were mass air? I have never heard of them having issues with cams but I have never owned one either.

Don't look at a cam, look at heads. Get some AFR 165's for a nice street head. Then you could pair it with a TFS Stg1 cam, and a GT40 style intake for a mild but fun street combo. That is a very mild combo. I run a camshaft from Isky in my 95 and it specs out: 228/238---524/544----LSA 112. I worked fine with the stock computer. You have to make a restrictor plate for the IAC and make sure tps voltage is below 1 volt at idle.

If you are going to go through the effort to swap the camshaft, I would upgrade the heads at the same time. A set of ported Gt40's would be a huge setup over the factory heads. Install a custom camshaft along with getting it tuned and you will have a decent running car. The SN95 cars typically hate cam swaps without having it tuned.

Lol at you....many dyno charts have proven little gains with off the shelf cams or aftermarket headers on stock heads. E7's suck in stock form not to mention the stock springs wont handle any decent cam anyways.

I have been in the 5.0 game forever and know what I am taliking about. Not to mention I have had about every combonation of parts you can imagine.

I have GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7's, ported cobra intake and a Vortech V1 I ran a 7.60 @93mph with full weight AC, power steering etc... on my break in pump gas tune in shitty West texas air.

I havent dyno'd yet cause I want to swap out my exhaust first and the torque arm really limits your choices.

Lol at you....many dyno charts have proven little gains with off the shelf cams or aftermarket headers on stock heads. E7's suck in stock form not to mention the stock springs wont handle any decent cam anyways.

I have been in the 5.0 game forever and know what I am taliking about. Not to mention I have had about every combonation of parts you can imagine.

I have GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7's, ported cobra intake and a Vortech V1 and ran a 7.60 @93mph with full weight AC, power steering etc... on my break in pump gas tune in shitty West texas air.

I havent dyno'd yet cause I want to swap out my exhaust first and the torque arm really limits your choices.

Save the whole "I have been in the 5.0 game forever" crap for someone else. Will heads help with a cam? Sure, but are they needed? Hell no!

Dyno charts also show a 106mm turbo will improve power too, does that mean this guy needs that too?

Lol at you....many dyno charts have proven little gains with off the shelf cams or aftermarket headers on stock heads. E7's suck in stock form not to mention the stock springs wont handle any decent cam anyways.

I have been in the 5.0 game forever and know what I am taliking about. Not to mention I have had about every combonation of parts you can imagine.

I have GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7's, ported cobra intake and a Vortech V1 I ran a 7.60 @93mph with full weight AC, power steering etc... on my break in pump gas tune in shitty West texas air.

I havent dyno'd yet cause I want to swap out my exhaust first and the torque arm really limits your choices.

lol @ I made 267rwhp on E7's and an E303 about 12yrs ago... how much do you think I would have made with the stock cam?

I made 290RWHP with the stock cam forever ago with a set of Canfields......whats your point.

Throw a cam in there in a car with stock heads and springs and experience the joys of valve float.....I could care less I gave my opinion based on my experience nothing more.

my point is you said "stock heads = stock cam"

why? the car will make good power and run much stronger with an aftermarket cam than with the stock cam... you can do a cam and springs for a couple hundred bucks...

I would rather just bolt on a set of heads than change valve springs, but if the guy doesn't have $1200-1500 to spend on heads/pushrods/rockers/etc. and wants a cam, there's nothing wrong with running an aftermarket cam with stock heads

why? the car will make good power and run much stronger with an aftermarket cam than with the stock cam... you can do a cam and springs for a couple hundred bucks...

I would rather just bolt on a set of heads than change valve springs, but if the guy doesn't have $1200-1500 to spend on heads/pushrods/rockers/etc. and wants a cam, there's nothing wrong with running an aftermarket cam with stock heads

When I say stock heads I assumed stock springs. I agree

BTW: Stay away from pro comps as a cheap solution we just flowed some that only flowed 220cfm instead of the advertised 267CFM

Did you not understand? I didnt mispell anything. You saying stock heads = stock cam might as well mean he needs a turbo or 10:71 BDS sitting on top if he is even considering changing cams. Will heads help? Sure, just like a blower or a turbo would.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dark_5.0

When I say stock heads I assumed stock springs. I agree

BTW: Stay away from pro comps as a cheap solution we just flowed some that only flowed 220cfm instead of the advertised 267CFM

And there is a huge problem. No one said stay with stock springs although on the street, how often do you hit 5500+ rpms. I can promise he wont see valve float driving around town.

So to be clear stock heads DOES NOT mean he needs to stick with the POS stock cam. A letter cam or even a off the shelf comp cam will do him alot of good on his street car. Springs are recomended but for a mild cam arent absolutley required.

fair enough... I agree with that. I was "raised" that springs always match the cam... Built a lot of ghetto budget rides back in the day, and valve springs were always part of the equation.

Thankfully I've got a little more money these days, and like I said, I'd rather just put a set of real heads on! LOL

Heads may be an option at some point but right now no.
I would never put a better flowing set of heads on a stock cam. I am the kind of person who likes to see what each component did to the bottom line. I would be prone to doing a cam and springs now with a tune/chip or 89 5spd computer and later add heads if I am not satisfied.
I don't have a lot of experience with heads for fords. I have run Edelbrock performer RPM heads on my 350 and Dart pro 1 230cc/2.08 valve heads on my 432 small block.
I can tell you this, Performer RPM vs 882 casting GM heads = 1 whole second at the 1/8 mile.

you'll probably see a similar or better jump on a 302... the factory SBF heads are pretty horrible compared to SBC heads. I can't wait to ditch the E7's on the car I just bought and put some 165's on it

Well then lets do it like this. What's your goal? You say heads in the future, so you will buy a cam now for the heads in the future? What heads? Camshaft should go after the heads for all the work involved. Do you want to make 250, 275, 300+ rwhp in the end? Do you want a poweradder down the road? Do you have et goals instead of dyno goals? What are you looking for? If you have no real goal then spend your money on Quarterhorse and Binary Editor. It will grow right along with your desires, and you can tune everything you have to the optimum performance. About $225 or so for QH and $90 for BE. So a little over $300 and I'll bet you can get more performance out of your current combo with some tuning than you will from a cam swap with stock heads.

Well then lets do it like this. What's your goal? You say heads in the future, so you will buy a cam now for the heads in the future? What heads? Camshaft should go after the heads for all the work involved. Do you want to make 250, 275, 300+ rwhp in the end? Do you want a poweradder down the road? Do you have et goals instead of dyno goals? What are you looking for? If you have no real goal then spend your money on Quarterhorse and Binary Editor. It will grow right along with your desires, and you can tune everything you have to the optimum performance. About $225 or so for QH and $90 for BE. So a little over $300 and I'll bet you can get more performance out of your current combo with some tuning than you will from a cam swap with stock heads.

Heads may or may not be in the future.
I would like for the car to run low 8's in the 1/8 mile. 8.2-8.4. I don't konw what that would translate to regarding HP numbers. I would guess around 300. My previous street car was around 400-425 and was a very consistent 7.7 car with a 1.5-1.6 60ft. But it was a 4mpg daily.
I have been looking at the SCT tuner. A few places sell it with 3 base tunes for 269 and HPP will do it and a custom tune for 550. I am just not sure if the custom tune will be worth nearly 300 by itself.

I am building my sons 302 as we speak, Motorsports b cam, Trick flow 170cc heads, rpm efi intake, what size throttle body would you recommend to use for it. It's a 88 coupe with a built aod and 3.55 gears, mainly a street car with some extra get up and go.

Heads may or may not be in the future.
I would like for the car to run low 8's in the 1/8 mile. 8.2-8.4. I don't konw what that would translate to regarding HP numbers. I would guess around 300. My previous street car was around 400-425 and was a very consistent 7.7 car with a 1.5-1.6 60ft. But it was a 4mpg daily.
I have been looking at the SCT tuner. A few places sell it with 3 base tunes for 269 and HPP will do it and a custom tune for 550. I am just not sure if the custom tune will be worth nearly 300 by itself.

To do it on the cheap pick up some used AFR 165 which work well with stock pistons or perhaps some TW 170cc headsfor under $900 including rockers. Put a cheap TF Stg 1 cam with a 90MM LMAF meter and a 70mm tb. That should get you very close to 300 rwhp. 275-310 depending on the tune. Skip the $500 custom tune and buy the QH and BE combo. QH from Moates and BE from EEC Analyzer. Take some time, read all you can and tune it yourself. It will be less than $500 and your knowledge of how things work will increase 500%! Trust me, it's well worth the time if you wanna have a reliable, civil, 24mpg hwy, low 13/high12 sec car with A/C.

If you must and your goals arent going to change, then start with the TF Stg1 cam. You can prolly get close to your goal with some box stock GT40P heads and upgraded springs with that cam and your longtubes.

Lol at you....many dyno charts have proven little gains with off the shelf cams or aftermarket headers on stock heads. E7's suck in stock form not to mention the stock springs wont handle any decent cam anyways.

I have been in the 5.0 game forever and know what I am taliking about. Not to mention I have had about every combonation of parts you can imagine.

I have GT40X heads, stock cam with 1.7's, ported cobra intake and a Vortech V1 I ran a 7.60 @93mph with full weight AC, power steering etc... on my break in pump gas tune in shitty West texas air.

I havent dyno'd yet cause I want to swap out my exhaust first and the torque arm really limits your choices.

Not bad I can't wait to see what my coupe does. I have ported edlebrock heads, ported cobra intake, stock cam. vortech v1. Made 487rwhp on the previous owners car (his setup was a little different). I will be happy with 450.

I had a 91 coupe daily driver back in the day the only mods were pulleys,cold air,shorty's w-off road h-pipe, and a NOS 150hp stage 2 dry kit! It it went 7.49@94mph 1.52 60ft on the "bone stock" E7 motor,410s,5-speed on a motorsport clutch and i could drive anywhere with ac on! Spray it for 1/3 of the price of heads and cam and save money on gas! ALTHOUGH 94-95 dont have forged pistons so stage 1 is recommended! LOL!

Not bad I can't wait to see what my coupe does. I have ported edlebrock heads, ported cobra intake, stock cam. vortech v1. Made 487rwhp on the previous owners car (his setup was a little different). I will be happy with 450.

My goal is about 450 RWHP. I am afraid to push the stock shortblock any harder than that. I am tuning with an Andersom PMS series 4 and can still add timing but am being conservative.

I had a 91 coupe daily driver back in the day the only mods were pulleys,cold air,shorty's w-off road h-pipe, and a NOS 150hp stage 2 dry kit! It it went 7.49@94mph 1.52 60ft on the "bone stock" E7 motor,410s,5-speed on a motorsport clutch and i could drive anywhere with ac on! Spray it for 1/3 of the price of heads and cam and save money on gas! ALTHOUGH 94-95 dont have forged pistons so stage 1 is recommended! LOL!

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Heads may be an option at some point but right now no.
I would never put a better flowing set of heads on a stock cam. I am the kind of person who likes to see what each component did to the bottom line. I would be prone to doing a cam and springs now with a tune/chip or 89 5spd computer and later add heads if I am not satisfied.
I don't have a lot of experience with heads for fords. I have run Edelbrock performer RPM heads on my 350 and Dart pro 1 230cc/2.08 valve heads on my 432 small block.
I can tell you this, Performer RPM vs 882 casting GM heads = 1 whole second at the 1/8 mile.

I bet you could get some GT40 heads for a good price if you shop around. I paid 500 bux shipped for new GT40X heads which are not great but flow 240 CFM which is a good bump over stock.

How do you like the 432 small block my dad just got his 434 in a Dart SHP block yesterday.

My goal is about 450 RWHP. I am afraid to push the stock shortblock any harder than that. I am tuning with an Andersom PMS series 4 and can still add timing but am being conservative.

I'd like to get high 400s but since I don't have a good cam or that good of an intake I would be happy with 450. I am going to just get a shop to tune mine. Maybe I can get in the 6's now with it. I was about 2 tenths short with bottle and stock heads.