In the next month or two I plan on buying a Quincy 15HP 230v 3 phase electric air compressor for sand blasting work. There are two models; one with a "Max package" and one without. The price difference is around $2700.00. If the link (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ProductCompareView?storeId=6970) does not work the Max package includes an auto drain, low oil protection, and an after cooler. I plan on buying an air dryer so don't know if an after cooler is still necessary and also am trying to understand how these three items can be worth $2700.00. I welcome any comments to help me make the decision between the two. Thanks.
Oh, I'm too old to worry about a life time warrenty or getting a rotary. ;)

hardtail

11-01-2011, 06:04 PM

Thats a lot of extra $$$ for those items at a glance that seems to be all the extras your getting.........I would go for the cheaper one, an air dryer will take care of the moisture and provide some cooling and an autodrain of good quality can't be more than $150.........nice compressor..........

radkins

11-01-2011, 06:29 PM

I agree that seems like a big mark up and if you are going to be using an air dryer anyway the aftercooler won't help much. The aftercooler would make the dryer more efficient but is that worth that much extra cost?

wierdscience

11-01-2011, 07:33 PM

The one without is a bare air compressor with no starter and those starters ain't cheap,so by the time you add everything up it's pretty close.The starter,cooler and tank drain also aren't going to be HF quality,if Quincy sells it with they're pumps it's got to be good stuff.

http://www.quincycompressor.com/max.html

Probably have to ask,but it looks to include the 5 year warranty which also includes the service package IIRC.

Ridgerunner

11-02-2011, 09:00 AM

Thanks very much to all for taking the time to respond and for the advice and information.

rmwise

11-02-2011, 10:05 AM

The aftercooler is a must have, especially if you are going to be blasting or painting for a long stretch or live anywhere humid. If you don't have one, your distribution system becomes one and you have liquid water in the lines.
Autodrain also a must if you have the aftercooler.

Water seperators are OK, but they can only do so much. I have half dozen or more customers that can verify just how (in)effective the typical separators are. A have even made repeat "tuition" payments for the same repairs to equipment in less than a year.

Aftercoolers are not cheap, but they pay off in the long run.

jdunmyer

11-02-2011, 08:18 PM

RR,
You do definitely want an aftercooler, but I can't imagine that it needs to cost that kind of $$$. A decent-sized steam heat exchanger with a fan should do the job nicely, and I'd think it'd handle the pressure OK. Just get one that has a pipe size of at least as large as the compressor outlet.

On my 5Hp compressor, I have 2, 10' lengths of finned tube heat exchanger, mounted on the wall at a slight slope towards the tank. Nearly all the moisture ends up in the tank, not my air lines.

Ridgerunner

12-06-2011, 07:06 PM

The Quincy compressor arrived (damaged, but that's another story) about a week ago and I had another question if you don't mind. This compressor will be installed in a separate room from the shop and I wondered what is a good way to wire it to start remotely?

lakeside53

12-06-2011, 08:23 PM

Assuming you have power direct (through a disconnect) to the motor starter (you can turn it off at the starter if you wish) wire a remote switch (a 277 volt light switch will work) in series with the contactor coil. This will override the pressure switch or other activation.

There may be a wiring diagram inside the starter cover.

jdunmyer

12-07-2011, 10:55 AM

RR,
My compressor is in another room and is powered through a magnetic starter. I have a little toggle switch in the shop, along with a pilot light. When the switch is 'On', the light is lit, showing me that the compressor is energized. The switch and light are adjacent to the door, so I never leave the shop with the compressor accidentally left 'On'.

My electrics here are mostly 480 volt, with 120 volt controls. The wiring for the above is simple: power from the control transformer goes through a small fuse, to the switch. The other side of the switch powers the hot side of the light AND the hot side of the pressure switch. The other side of the pressure switch goes to the contactor coil; the other side of the contactor coil and the pilot light go to the 'neutral' side of the control transformer.

Ridgerunner

12-07-2011, 01:45 PM

Thanks much for the ideas. For power I have 3 phase 240V from 2 rotary phase converters; a 25hp and a 40hp. They are remotely controlled with switches with pilot lights next to the doorway which is very nice. This same type of switch setup is what I was shooting for with the compressor.
Unfortunately, the compressor electric starter panel was smashed somewhere in the delivery process so there are just terminals hanging on the ends of wires. The wiring diagrams inside the panel box were rubbed and ripped so that was lost too.

lakeside53

12-07-2011, 02:02 PM

You are going to need to replace the starter before the remote on/off. Plenty on ebay. The pressure switch is just in sereis with the coil and mabe and exterior panel on/off.

Ridgerunner

12-07-2011, 04:28 PM

You are going to need to replace the starter before the remote on/off. Plenty on ebay. The pressure switch is just in sereis with the coil and mabe and exterior panel on/off.

This is a new compressor that was shipped. With expert advice from the truck driver I made the mistake of accepting damaged shipment. Lesson learned. Everyone of the parties involved has been nice so far, but no resolution yet. It is early in the process and a busy time of the year for companies so hopefully it will get resolved soon.
I do have another compressor running. To turn it on I have to throw the blade fused disconnect which puts my nose about 18 inches from the 7.5hp motor. Seeing the motor sparks fly in front of my wide open eyes is not as much fun as it used to be. That is why this compressor is going in another room and the reason for the remote start question.
Appreciate the advice.

That looks like one of the splash-lubricated huge ones. There was a guy around here who had an old one he wanted to sell me for $250 (across the state) but he wound up tearing it down and he said even though it looked like death on the outside the cylinders still had cross-hatching. So don't knock (no pun intended) the splash lubricated Quincy compressors!