I've got an 80mm stem on at the moment as I've been trying to fine tune the fit whilst on the turbo. Seems more comfortable, didn't think about if it affected power output tbh so I might look into that at some point. Not tried it on the road yet which will be the real test. Has yours affected steering much?

If it fits and it's comfy and you can ride a long way and ride as fast as you want, then it's ok.

From a more critical perspective, an 80mm stem suggests that either you aren't very flexible, or that you have a bike that has a top tube that is a bit too long.

Both of these should have been pointed out at your bike fit, but probably weren't, because 90% of bike fits seem to be a money spinner rather than a long term, come back in two weeks/200 miles for a re-fit, followed by some kind of long term follow up...

Elbow on the tip of the saddle, tips of fingers should be within 1cm of the bars either way.

Zilog I've only ridden it 3 miles since, it felt faster though. Could have been shiny thing syndrome. The basic issue that poor posture and tight hamstrings plus wrong setup had my weight behind the BB, and knees behind the pedal spindle. So now my hips have cone forward and stem back to give me a better angle (triangular) from wrist to hip rather the arch shape it previously was.

Cynical - posture and actually engaging your glutes can though. Crikey see above. Turns out I have big flexibility issues plus a short torso, long arms but short forearms which were all pointed out to me.

Ultimately it doesn't matter. The bike that fits you the best is the bike you ride the most and vice versa.

If you want to ride a race bike, and race on it, then decide how you are going to fit yourself to it and crack on. I spent years tinkering with bike fit, trying different things, trying different stems, trying different amounts of seat setback, trying small frames with big stems, big frames with small stems, and am now riding frames that I fit to rather than buying frames that are supposed to fit to me.

If you are racing, then get yourself on a bike you can race on and get used to it. Then refine it using the knowledge you develop.

It's not meant to be that comfy, it's meant to be fast, and riding a bike isn't what humans were evolved to do so a certain amount of discomfort and adaptation is needed.

Try my oft derided method; choose a pro cyclist who is the same size as you and look in detail at their setup, then try to get as close as you can...

For someone your size, 80mm is too short. The fact that you can see the hub means the weight balance is shiftied backwards. No big issue you might think - and so did I until i rode a race with an 80mm stem on my medium TCR. Into a fast corner, the twitchiness set up a speed wobble and i edged a rider off the track. Be careful.

I'm now riding a 100mm stem and fit is perfect. The shortest i have for road is 90 on a bike that is really a bit too big.

No big issue you might think - and so did I until i rode a race with an 80mm stem on my medium TCR. Into a fast corner, the twitchiness set up a speed wobble and i edged a rider off the track. Be careful.

I have an 80mm stem on my Mekk road bike - however the bike is a 44cm and i am 5'2" so its all relative! I can just see the hub when on the hoods but not when on the drops. Whatever, i tried a 90mm = too long. Tried a 70mm = too short & twitchy. 80mm = just right.

TiRed - Member The fact that you can see the hub means the weight balance is shiftied backwards.

Seeing as my saddle has come forward, and the 'puter software now shows my weight Central over the BB, it actually shows my weight has come forwards and the angle from wrist to shoulder to hip is more acute eg not over reaching.

Kryton57 - Member
TiRed - Member The fact that you can see the hub means the weight balance is shiftied backwards.
Seeing as my saddle has come forward, and the 'puter software now shows my weight Central over the BB, it actually shows my weight has come forwards and the angle from wrist to shoulder to hip is more acute eg not over reaching.

Jeez you/people really bother this much?? Are you an Olympic track cyclist? You'll be trying for a wind tunnel session next

My bike fit last year was the same, from a 100mm +6 to a 80mm +16 but also with the seat post raised quite an amount and the saddle pushed back. Putting me further back on the bike and more upright, meaning I use the gluts more now, I can't say I feel much faster or comfortable but I've stopped cramping in my calves on 50+ milers. If I was to try a tt I would probably switch back to my old position I think it was better for power over shorter distances.

Why nonsense? A shorter stem will require less force for the same torque to move the handlebars. Hence steering sensitivitt increases. Weight on the front wheel will also affect stability ans a shorter stem, all things being equal, means that the bike will handle quicker. Not many DH bikes ride a 100mm stem. For a reason.

As to Kryton, if you had to move your saddle forward as well, I think your frame is too big. Saddle location should be independent of handlebar distance, regardless of the saddle to elbvow to arse to finger rules of thumb. Set the saddle position first, adjust handlebar reach and drop to taste. Stem too long or too short means the bike is too small or too big.

Why nonsense? A shorter stem will require less force for the same torque to move the handlebars. Hence steering sensitivitt increases. Weight on the front wheel will also affect stability ans a shorter stem, all things being equal, means that the bike will handle quicker. Not many DH bikes ride a 100mm stem. For a reason.

I didn't deny that it can cause a bit of twitchiness at extreme differences, but you didn't push a rider off the road in a 4th cat race because your stem was 10mm too short

As to Kryton, if you had to move your saddle forward as well, I think your frame is too big. Saddle location should be independent of handlebar distance, regardless of the saddle to elbvow to arse to finger rules of thumb. Set the saddle position first, adjust handlebar reach and drop to taste. Stem too long or too short means the bike is too small or too big.

I like the way you all talk as though a professional nationally renown bike fit organisation doesn't know what it was doing.

The saddle was moved first to get me balanced over the BB and my knees in line with the pedal spindle, with height adjusted within the shorter side of the typical parameters - yet within the 140+ degree arc - to compensate for my hamstring issues.

THEN the front was brought toward me and slightly up by shortening the Stem to make me more upright with my back straight and not overly stretched over the bars. FWIW, I also used to cramp in my left hamstring on long rides, and get a frozen neck/shoulder on rides over 90mins.

Also FWIW my "hub behind the bars" comment was from a perspective of being on the hoods.

Finally, I'm 5'11 & 3/4 using a 57. The other size options for my race geo bike are 55 or 60, both of which would be massive outside my size range. I'm measured to have a short torso long arms and shorter forearms than usual, which even if you do a general google about that, typical indicates short Stem size than usual. For example:

A person with very long legs for their height will also have long arms but will have a short body and small feet relative to their height. Small feet mean short forearm and a shorter stem which will be right for their short body. Because this rider has long legs his saddle will be set high making a greater distance from the seat to the bars*; this will accommodate his long arms.

As to Kryton, if you had to move your saddle forward as well, I think your frame is too big. Saddle location should be independent of handlebar distance, regardless of the saddle to elbvow to arse to finger rules of thumb. Set the saddle position first, adjust handlebar reach and drop to taste. Stem too long or too short means the bike is too small or too big.

What is too long or too short though? As said, Cav has just switched to a smaller frame (in fact the very smallest Spesh make), plenty of pros are running 130mm stems, and they're faster than you, for longer. I imagine you'd tell them they're doing it wrong though?

From a more critical perspective, an 80mm stem suggests that either you aren't very flexible, or that you have a bike that has a top tube that is a bit too long.

Nonsense!! I have a short torso / arms and long legs so need the short stem. No issues with being unflexible - run a -17 stem and my drop is 8cm, and I'd like more drop but a -25stem looks, well, like my bars are falling off! Both the TT on my winter and race bike are the same length but one has a 80 and the other a 90 but my contact points are exactly the same, the geometry and headcap is different.

And no way does the bike increase your power.

A proper bike fit will though by being set up to your flexibility etc etc and recruiting all the muscles needed. When I had mine done there was a massive difference to how strong I felt.

OP, switching to the 80mm stem (previously i had 90) made the bike initially so twitchy (especially now my new race bike is lighter), but I got used to it. However, i don't really like it for very technical crit courses tbh, but then i don't really like racing crits either