Archive for April, 2012

Monday, April 30th, 2012

We rolled up in the early evening, surfboards in tow. Warm water, warm air, and big whomping surf. Yiiiii.

Ed said it’d been flat for weeks before this swell moved in. We hugged our hellos and unpacked the gear for an evening surf.

Now I’d brought my 7’0 with the expectation of soft mellow waves to practice on, not steep waves to practice ducking under. I stood on the beach a while, board in hand, heart in throat, trying to get myself prepped to paddle out. I’m not confident on that board and almost left it on the beach in favor of one of the house longboards. Watching Ed, Beamer, and Aaron paddle away I thought: “Well, I came here to learn this board. Time to go learn.”

Sure, the first two duckdive attempts didn’t exactly go so well, but I got into the swing of things, made it out, and got some fuuuuunnnn waves. The lefts were fast so I mostly just held on. Woooohooo. Love that warm water.

Monday, April 23rd, 2012

Much better than I thought the low tide would be. It was small, with looooooong lulls, but with winds were southerly and the waves were are clean. I was happy to have plenty of foam to cruise the soft thigh-waist high waves. The water was a rather funky brown. Fun enough for me, the whales took a pass and headed south.

Sunday, April 22nd, 2012

I rarely surf weekends. I’m pretty lucky to have the luxury of surfing before work during the week so weekends tend to be for chores and time with land based friends. Every once in a while I’ll brave the crowds to surf with folks I don’t get to see on the weekday mornings.

Met up with a whole bunch of folks for one of those days.

I took out my 7’4 for some more practice. The waves were pretty small and I’d expected to struggle. I actually wound up getting a few which was very exciting.

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Tuesday, April 17th, 2012

I was a little skittish after the run of big days I’d had in SC all spring. Every time a set would line up and I’d see the black wave faces start to build, I ran for it. I guess one too many crushing hold downs will do that. Eventually, after some teasing, I pulled myself together and got a few. I got a handful of nice long swoopy waves before even getting my hair wet. Wheeee.

Chris got a whole 3 seconds of footage from behind me on a wave. 😀 It kinda looks like I can surf.

Saw Chris take the drop of all drops. I didn’t think he was gonna make it, I really hoped he was gonna make it, and then he made it. Woooohooo. I heard a few shortboarders in the lineup say “whoa” quietly as he went by. It was a very steep drop for a 10+ft log.

Wrapped up the morning with some fun little knee-waist high waves over at 38th. I tried to get some shots of Chris, but pushed all the wrong buttons. Almost had a dry hair session.

Saturday, April 7th, 2012

Oh man, it feels like I’ve been out of the water for EVER. There’s been wind, there’s been rain, there’s even been me not being able to get out of bed before 7.

There’s nothing to get my stoke meter back in black like a nice mellow Ocean Beach day.

After a few logistical hangups and some confusion, I wound up paddling out by myself before running into Drew and Josh in the lineup. I got some very fun waves. While I normally ride a singlefin, it’s a lot of fun to swoosh around nice Ocean Beach waves on my tri-fin. Wheeee-hhheeee. Worked on some mean leans and some cutbacks. Had pretty much all solid waves till I got greedy taking a wave in and faceplanted on a hollow inside section. Nearly bodysurfed that wave in.