07 September 2005

This is probably somewhat off the beaten path for this weblog, but indulge us, please. Would you be offended if a hot dog stand sold french fries known as ghetto fries?

[minor outrage] We discovered this menu selection on our recent trip home to Chicago, which incidentally, is home to some spectacular cuisine. The Italian beef is a staple there, and one north side beefy is aggressively marketing a side dish of ghetto fries with flyers reading, "GOT GHETTO? Max's Famous Italian Beef Serves Gotta-Have Ghetto Fries."

If you're wondering, "ghetto fries" are French-fried potatoes topped with cheddar cheese, giardiniera, gravy, barbecue sauce and raw onions. We'll admit, sounds delish, didn't make the trip to buy them; that would have been tantamount to endorsing their appropriation of a derisive term. (For the record, the beefy joint is not in the hood, more like Archie Bunker's 'hood in Queens.) We're neither activists nor politically correct-types, but the name is beyond offensive. Maybe even more disturbing was the lack of outrage. Obviously you can't mandate menu-political correctness (mpc), but it just seems the opposite of where we should be in '05, right? [/minor outrage]

06 August 2005

The restaurant's decor is minimalist and ultra-chic and the fare follows that lead. Mediabistro.com'sLaurel Touby sampled the grilled hangar steak with sun dried tomatoes and escarole. Our new pal Kristin—a production designer—dined on California sturgeon that was so fresh it almost melted on your palette. We had the braised pork cops with squash and black figs. Blackbird is a fabulous dining experience.