I had a slight annoying vibration that I could not diagnose as a driveline or tire balance in the seat of the pants. It caused the passenger seat to shake at speeds greater than 70 mph and was most pronounced on really smooth surfaces. It was perplexing because it seemed to show up immediately following a tire rotation after my lift, wheels, and tires were installed and road force balance. Everything was smooth as silk until I got my truck back from a routine service and tire rotation.

So for $50, it's finally glass smooth. Hopefully this will help someone else struggling after new rims. It basically comes down to hub centric vs lug centric and the right parts to make sure a well balanced wheel and tire drive like one.

I looked up the wheel here and found the bore size is 107.95mm, so the one you linked should work.

I also went out to the truck and pulled off one of my lugs... I thought the ones above looked familiar. Turns out I currently have the same lugs as the Amazon.com link I posted above (except chrome). I'll get the ones you linked and sell these. (Anybody interested?)

I'm not getting out of this for $50, though... the Lugs alone are $47.76 before shipping, and even if I can find something else to buy on Amazon to get the free shipping, it's still $16.88. Not super-expensive, but still.

Hub centric rings make all the difference. My previous daily driver was a Lexus IS250. I put 19" Infiniti G37 wheels on it and it shook like crazy on the highway. Bought some hub centric rings and installed them and it was smooth as glass.

Hub centric rings make all the difference. My previous daily driver was a Lexus IS250. I put 19" Infiniti G37 wheels on it and it shook like crazy on the highway. Bought some hub centric rings and installed them and it was smooth as glass.

I had a slight annoying vibration that I could not diagnose as a driveline or tire balance in the seat of the pants. It caused the passenger seat to shake at speeds greater than 70 mph and was most pronounced on really smooth surfaces. It was perplexing because it seemed to show up immediately following a tire rotation after my lift, wheels, and tires were installed and road force balance. Everything was smooth as silk until I got my truck back from a routine service and tire rotation.

So for $50, it's finally glass smooth. Hopefully this will help someone else struggling after new rims. It basically comes down to hub centric vs lug centric and the right parts to make sure a well balanced wheel and tire drive like one.

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Were your new wheels you bought lugcentric then? just the bore was larger?

Nope. Those are the acorn style for hub centric wheels. The ones I am talking about are these. They look similar but have a shank underneath the acorn for centering of the wheel on the lug holes.

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The spline part is not going to make the difference in this situation. It's the ET (extended thread) shank that will hold the wheel steady. If you don't want to run a spline lug, gorilla also has the extended thread in a stardard hex lug.

The spline part is not going to make the difference in this situation. It's the ET (extended thread) shank that will hold the wheel steady. If you don't want to run a spline lug, gorilla also has the extended thread in a stardard hex lug.

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I was not talking about the spline part. I was talking about the same shank that you are mentioning.