The year's best Japanese food isn't from a marquee chef or a glitzy dining room on a hot restaurant row—instead, the honor goes to Katsuno, an unassuming sleeper joint in Forest Hills, Queens. The modern Japanese cookery from chef-owner Katsuyuki Seo (also of Seo in midtown) made you forgive the spot's far-flung location. Seo took the win for his simple, stunning preparations: A slow-poached egg is all texture: the silky, custardy bulb suspended in chilled dashi broth. And a salad features hunks of raw salmon on yuzu-dressed greens and sea-urchin-topped endive leaves. Let's hear it for the underdog! 103-01 Metropolitan Ave at 71st Rd, Forest Hills, Queens (718-575-4033)