Cooking & Eating & Living in Paris (& Leaving it, sometimes)

Main menu

In Paris, Goldenberg meant delicatessen once…

…now the world-famous food shop and restaurant in Rue des Rosiers has turned into yet another fashion boutique. A noisy local initiative, defending the character of the Jewish quartier here, marched the streets in protest but in vain. Gone are the Eastern style sweet-and-sour herrings, the Polish sausages, the onion cakes and all gefillte fish. More is lost: when you walk down Rue des Rosiers today, you have a feeling that Goldenberg formed the gravitation center of this neighbourhood. Now, all the other shops and Jewish eateries look somewhat cheap, just touristic, no longer real. That’s sad, actually.