Building the 'SCORCHER' victorian steam tug

Scorcher by John Anthony Model Design
This model can be seen on display at the Hayle Heritage Centre in Cornwall.
www.hayleheritagecentre.org.uk

Laying out the templates

This model was originally built in the early nineties using the bread and butter method and solid pine timber. Recently, l had the urge to draw up a proper plan for this very pretty little model and during the course of research and original drawings, found that l had made the hull too narrow. This has been amended on the new drawings and l thought this would be the ideal opportunity to illustrate the building of a round bilge style hull using methods, time honoured, to achieve a good undistorted shape.It will be noted that tabs have been added to the former/bulkhead shapes. These will ensure that the correct shape is easily achieved using the method as illustrated. Formers are 3mm lite ply and keel/deck edges from birch ply. Shown left are the templates glued on to the ply ready for cutting.

Formers cut out and in place.

I have made a building board/guide from 9 mm MDF wtith 9 x 12 mm pine strips glued in place. Spacing is 75 mm and this dimension will be standard on future plans so that l can re-use as often as required.Building the hull upside down in this way ensures complete accuracy. Planking is next.

'SCORCHER' hull taking shape.

Planking scorcher

I have planked the hull in medium grade 3mm (1/8") balsa. The compound curves at the stern are achieved by layering 9mm (3/8") soft balsa and this will be carved and sanded to shape later.I got F2 bulkhead slightly too small and this has been amended on the finished plan.I used wood glue and pinned the planks in place until the glue sets. There is lots of sanding to do when l remove the hull from the jig and some filling will be required. I intend to paint inside with yacht varnish and will probably put on a layer of glass cloth,1/2 oz, when the hull is complete and decks, rudder tube, bull walks and rubbing strips are added. This will add strength.Its looking like a very nice shaped hull though!

Scorcher model

I have removed it from the building board here. The tags at the tops of the formers still need removing before the decks can be fitted. I intend to use all of the superstructure and fittings from the original model as these are accurately made and obviously, this will save time! she does have a very pointy hull shape and this has become more pronounced on the new hull with correct plan form. I suppose that this kind of vessel was very new at the time it was first constructed and commissioned. Things changed rapidly as technology progressed from paddle driven steamers to screw driven and perhaps this shape is related and developed from those vessels.

Adding filler foam after varnishing the interior will add buoyancy in the event of the hull being punctured. Trim and sand off level when it has cured.

Adding buoyancy

The decks can be planked or, as l have done here, a 2 mm ply deck has been securely glued in place. The hatches are then marked and cut out. The forward deck was timber and l simply added ink lines to represent the planks before sealing them in with clear laquer. Next up, the bulwarks...

Adding the decks

marking the planks

Bullwarks fitted with Balsa capping's (1mm ply with 3mm Balsa) and 3 mm sq rubbing strips. I plated the hull with paper panels of approximately 3" x 1 1/4", applied using thinned PVA. I also added fake rivets using small blobs of PVA. This must then be sealed well with plenty of coats of paint and a final coat of laquer/varnish to prevent water ingress.

Adding the bullwarks

Painting the hull

The super structure is made up from 1/32" ply and balsa strip. The funnel is a card tube from a roll of kitchen foil. The joins in the material must be filled and sealed before painting. The Bridge is thin ply with Mahogany veneer planks to simulate planks. I made the Navigation lamps from thin brass sheet, wire and tube. The life buoys are adapted from commercial items. The tow hook was made from 1/8" alloy and 10BA bolts. The deck mounted anchor winch was fabricated from bits of plastic strip. I used and old handkerchief to make the canopy awning.

Upper works

I fabricated my own propeller. It should be a four blade type but not too worried about that. You can off course use a commercial item. The funnel weights are made from plastic and steel strip (or alloy) The rudder was cut from thin (24 gauge) brass folded around a piece of 1/16" dia rod and soldered.

Fabricating the prop

Funnel weights being fabricated

Funnel weights fitted. The grating is made from 1/16" hard Balsa and sprayed black.The motor and gearing are fitted here, before the servo mounting plate.

Adding the name plate

The rudder can be seen below, as yet un-painted.The rudder arm can be seen below, made from the earth pin in a 13 amp plug! Works a treat.

Connecting the rudder

Bath testing the Scorcher! The model must be correctly ballasted to bring the water to the water line. This is done with the battery fitted. Lead sheet is used either side to achieve an even keel. This should then be epoxied into place to make them permanent. Fine tuning can be achieved by moving the battery around. This can then be drawn around and strips of 1/4" balsa glued onto the battery platform to hold its position.