I am the grateful recipient of just-picked garlic that has the stems intact. With my sharp butcher knife in hand, I was about to whack off the stems when my husband (brave or crazy?) wrested the knife from my hand.

"Hey, why don't you braid them?" he challenged. Like I have all this time on my hands?

I went straight to the computer to search for instructions: Not as complicated as I thought. It's much like French-braiding hair, and I am always in good practice when nieces with long manes come to visit. Since a pop-up thunderstorm was approaching, I set myself up on the covered patio, and by the time the rain abated, I had three braids to hang on my pot rack above the stove. Now all I have to do is be patient while they dry so I can use them in cooking.

Garlic is a member of the lily family and is a member of the genus Allium, and is thought to have originated in Central Asia. It is a close cousin to leeks, chives, onions and shallots, and is a staple in many cuisines, especially in Mediterranean and Asian countries. The three main types of garlic - white, violet and red-skinned - range from mild to strong. (Elephant garlic, which is not a true garlic, but a relative of the leek, is a giant variety and is the mildest.)

For centuries its medicinal claims have included cures for toothaches, consumption, open wounds and evil demons and vampires. The volatile oils that give garlic (and onions) their characteristic taste and aroma are sulfur compounds, which help protect the body from viral infections and act as a digestive tonic. The edible bulb or "head" grows beneath the ground and is made up of sections called cloves, each encased in its own parchment-like membrane.

Crushing, chopping, pressing or pureeing garlic releases more of its essential oils and provides a sharper, more assertive flavor than slicing or leaving it whole. However, whole cloves, unpeeled, are delightful when roasted with chicken or braised long and slow with pork or beef, until they become sweet and butter-soft.

The culinary value of garlic is as a seasoning. When used moderately, it greatly enhances other flavors. It can also be used in larger quantities as a principal ingredient of some Mediterranean sauces. Raw garlic is most effective in a salad dressing or a marinade. Its distinctive aroma and flavor has long been one of my favorite kitchen smells.

I have come to love garlic prepared any number of ways, but especially roasted, pinched from the skin, then spread on toast or grilled steaks. I am also quite fond of crushing several garlic cloves into a lemony mayonnaise seasoned with coarsely ground black pepper to dab on tomato slices or to spread on roast beef poor boys. A garlic-lemon-butter sauce can be brushed on steaks as they come off the grill or drizzled on baked potatoes.

On a recent visit to Red Stick Spice Company in Baton Rouge, I happened on to a sea salt flavored with roasted garlic: Wow! I'll have to get more, as I've been sprinkling it on tomatoes, cucumbers, grilled chicken breasts and anything else that gets in the way!

I have a garlic vinaigrette recipe given to me by the late Eula Mae Dore, the long-time revered cook at Avery Island, and I use it for dressing just about any sort of salad.

Garlic Vinaigrette

Makes about 1-1/2 cups

2 large garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

White pepper or cracked black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon dry mustard

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 cup vegetable oil

Mash the garlic with the salt to form a paste. Add the vinegar and stir to blend with a fork. Pour into a small jar and add the dry mustard, mayonnaise and vegetable oil. Tightly screw on the lid and shake the mixture well.

Store in the refrigerator for about 1 hour, then bring it to room before serving. It will keep in the refrigerator for one week.

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I've tried several versions of this recipe, but this is the one I like best.

Chicken with Lots of Garlic

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 fryers, about 3-1/2 pounds each, quartered

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoon dried tarragon

Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne to taste

4 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled

1 bulb fennel, trimmed, cored and coarsely chopped

2-1/2 cups dry white wine

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Toss the chicken and oil together to coat the chicken evenly. Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer in a large roasting pan. Sprinkle with the tarragon and season generously with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Scatter the garlic cloves and fennel over and in between the chicken pieces. Pour the wine down the side of the pan so as not to disturb the seasoning.

Cover the pan tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes. Uncover the pan and baste the chicken with the pan juices, and continue to cook until the skin becomes lightly brown, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Garlic Compound Butter

Makes about 1 cup

1 stick softened butter

3 cloves garlic, mashed

1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients and store in an airtight container in the freezer or refrigerator. Spread on steaks, burgers or pork chops when they come off the grill.

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This unusual dish is great to serve with anything that has been grilled.

Garlic Bread Pudding Cups

Makes 8 servings

2 cups milk

3 tablespoons minced garlic

2 large whole eggs

2 large egg yolks

1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

2-1/2 cups 1/2-inch cubed French or Italian bread

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Scald the milk with the garlic in a small saucepan. Let the mixture stand off the heat for 15 minutes. If you're not a garlic fan, strain the mixture through a sieve and discard the garlic. If you like garlic, leave it as is. (I do.)

In a bowl, whisk the whole eggs and the egg yolks. Add the milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly. Add the parsley, salt, black pepper and cayenne, and mix well.

Divide the bread cubes among eight buttered 1/3-cup muffin tins. Ladle the custard mixture over the bread, dividing it evenly. Let it stand for 10 minutes. At this point the puddings can be covered and chilled for eight to 10 hours.

Bake the puddings for 45 minutes, or until they are golden and puffed. Let the puddings cool for several minutes. They will sink as they cool. To remove them from the muffin tins, run a thin knife around the edges and lift them out carefully. Serve warm.