Fitting Frustrations

Tuesday, 9 April 2013

Aaarrrgggh!You might remember some weeks ago that I was wittering on about jackets, having found the gorgeous Julia jacket from Style Arc Patterns. After much umm-ing and ahh-ing (mainly over the postage costs) I decided to order it. It came a week or so ago, and now I've finished altering the bridesmaids dresses I decided to start making my muslin. That is where the Aaarrrgggh! at the start of this post comes in!OH MY GOODNESS, I've never had anything fit so badly, or so wrong in so many places. I don't have a photo of how it initially fit, but the back looked as if it was made for someone about twice my size! I really didn't know what to do, but I started off by pinching about 2 inches out across the top of the back, then another couple of inches down the centre back seam. Here's Rosie modelling the changes:

The next photos are scary, so if you're of a nervous disposition you might want to stop reading now!I tried it on again, thinking things would be much better... and they were a tiny bit better. Except I've now got these weird curved bits of excess fabric at the sides, kind of below the level of my boobs.

And it still looks like it's too big at the back of the shoulders. And there's a massive bit of excess fabric at the FRONT of my shoulder now, vertically. I think that might be eliminated to a certain extent by narrowing the shoulder seam which is too wide.

I'm assuming that the waterfall collar and peplum would pull it down a bit, as would the proper weight fabric. But to be honest, I have no idea what to do. I can't pin it when I've got it on, and it sits differently on Rosie, so she's not much help.I'm not normally one to admit defeat, particularly this early on in the process, but I'm seriously tempted to look for another pattern, cos I can't see this one working for me. Any advice, or expressions of sympathy, gratefully received!

Yes, I finished them, spent several evenings last week and most of Saturday on them. I'll gratefully accept your round of applause! And I'm glad I'm not the only one who has no idea how to fix this pattern!

I feel so sad for you, because I know you were really in love with this style. I wish I had some good advice, but I'm just useless at this kind of thing. I hope someone can leave you some more helpful comments than mine - just wanted to sympathize!

Oh, that is strange looking! I haven't made this jacket before, but it looks great and probably worth sticking it out. Google the pattern, see who else has made it and read what they said. Just from looking at it, that front seam of yours looks like it is going in the wrong direction compared to the line drawing of the pattern!!! On the pattern it looks like it should be going from near your hip bone, curving back towards your armhole, but your seam appears to be going from further back near your sideseam and sloping up towards the front. Hopefully someone will come up with a solution for you ...

It does look strange doesn't it?! I haven't been able to find anyone else that has made this pattern. I think the seam you're talking about might be in the wrong place because I've taken so much in down the back seam. I'm going to re-distribute what I've taken in and see if that improves things.

Do you own a jacket that you love the fit of? I would look at the shape of the pieces of that garment for inspiration, possibly even trace it off and then add the collar and peplum detail from your pattern. Just an idea. Oooooor since it looks big in the shoulders, go down a size in the pattern and add an FBA or grade from a smaller size in the shoulders to the size you're using for the waist? you'll figure it out, keep going!

Oh my! are you sure you got the right size? I wear a 14 in big 4, or 40 european, but a 10 in style arc. Aside from that - perhaps you can go back to your pattern, retrace closer to your measurements, and try another muslin. Hope it works out, cute jacket.

You sound like you're the same size as me! I would normally make a 14 in big 4, and I got a size 10 in this pattern. I have a pretty narrow back though, so I might have been better with one size down and an FBA.

I'm sure I can work it out. I already feel better about it than I did last night!

I always read the reviews on sewing pattern review to see what problems other people have had. I can't really help with the fitting problems because I need to see all the bits and pieces and the body - and I still have trouble working out my own size and shape compared with patterns. I do wish you all the very best of luck with the jacket, and it it is a dud pattern (it happens) move on to something very similar and adapt that.

It is very difficult to try to help you because of the language ... I inclined to drop a dress size this pattern, you probably pinched in the front and side seam so this front tilts out ... to the side, I think it should be pulled out of the seams and start over ... Oh, Lady! I wish I could speak English more easily to help you .. because I see clearly the problem, but I can not explain to you ... sigh ..

Rosy, I think I understand what you mean! The front side seam curves backwards, and it should either be straight or curve forwards slightly. Is that right? I think I might have pinched too much out of the back seam, I'll make some adjustments so the excess is more evenly distributed and see if that helps.