If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

i think the reasoning is that the EMag noid needs the kick in the pants from the more reactive stock pin then then the less reactive ULT. the mag noid is a one way puller, and fairly large.

This is correct.

The larger mass of the solenoid does not allow the ULT to be as effective. The solenoid pulls the sear easier due to the lower force required by the ULT, but the ULT has less return force so the return is slower and can have an affect on the rate of fire before noticing shootdown and short stroking issues. The ULT work but you need to ensure that everything is tuned well and that there is nothing that will increase the friction of the sear and solenoid movement.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

i think the reasoning is that the EMag noid needs the kick in the pants from the more reactive stock pin then then the less reactive ULT. the mag noid is a one way puller, and fairly large.

You might be able to balance the plunger with a spring.

The main thing about pin length is that it is relative to the o-ring type used in the top of the on/off. Quad o-rings seal about 0.030" shorter than a standard o-ring, so the pin has to be shorter to clear the bottom seal.

Is there a urethane quad available? I gave up on the buna quads in my ep after all of mine went soft in the same few months, including two stored spares and one I had given another player. They were manufactured consistently, I'll have to admit.

The main thing about pin length is that it is relative to the o-ring type used in the top of the on/off. Quad o-rings seal about 0.030" shorter than a standard o-ring, so the pin has to be shorter to clear the bottom seal.

Is there a urethane quad available? I gave up on the buna quads in my ep after all of mine went soft in the same few months, including two stored spares and one I had given another player. They were manufactured consistently, I'll have to admit.

the better idea is scale the noid back to accommodate the force reduction to trigger the gun from the ULT. this would trickle down into a smaller battery eventually too. cutting weight at trigger force.

The only person (until now) that I know of whom has successfully used a ULT in an E/X-Mag was LorneCash

Ive seen it in person.
His gun will not fire with a standard on-off pin installed.

After seeing that,.. the only modification I have tried with a little more than 70% success was dropping a small spring down into the solenoid coil BEFORE you install the plunger.

I wasnt willing to get creative and design something practical to work outside the coil.

There was some modification done to the plunger to get it to work well in low rates of fire.
(please dont ask me about doing this mod,.... its not successful enough to explain and all of us can figure something else out if thats the goal)

If I was going to do it to work 100%,.. I would:

A) mill a shallow hole socket into the solenoid mount block and drill a hole into the sear for another clevis to go inside the spring

or

B) Mill out the bottom of the coil and drop a light spring into the coil and set the plunger on that

or

C) drill and tap a hole into the back of the frame in line with the sear arm. screw in a long screw that will not make contact with the sear arm when sear is in the "home" position. slide a spring longer than the screw that will supply the added return force needed over the screw.

or

D) Tap the Trigger for another rare earth magnet and use the pull on the trigger return to aid with the reset of the pin and sear

or

E) Install a spring between the plunger clevis and the solenoid mounting block