Amtrak lost $1.1-billion in 2001. Passenger revenue grew 26.1 percent,
but expenses grew at an even greater rate. While Congress is preparing
to debate the company's future and its mandate to become free of operating
subsidies by December 2 of this year, Amtrak has announced that without
an appropriation of $1.2-billion, long-distance service will be discontinued
at the end of September. In the meantime, Amtrak has announced the layoff
of 300 managers and 700 union employees, and a cutback in capital improvements.
Company president George Warrington intends to ask Congress to decide whether
Amtrak is a "public service" or a for-profit corporation. "We
cannot be all things to all people," he said at a news conference.

CSX Reports 4th Quarter Results

CSX Corporation reported net income of $65-million or 31 cents per share
for the fourth-quarter of 2001, up from $54-million or 26 cents per share
a year earlier. Excluding the after-tax expense of $37-million or 17 cents
per share for the proposed settlement of litigation filed against the company
following a 1987 tank car fire in New Orleans, income for the quarter was
$102-million or 48 cents per share.

Norfolk Southern Reports 4th Quarter Results

Norfolk Southern's fourth-quarter profit was $115-million or 30 cents
per share, compared with $5-million or one cent per share for the same
period a year earlier. The company said freight volumes had fallen one
percent, but coal shipments were strong.

Canadian National Raises Quarterly Dividend

Canadian National has raised its quarterly dividend on common stock
to 21.5 cents (C) from 19.5 cents. The company reported fourth-quarter
net income was $296-million (C) compared to $237-million in the same period
a year earlier. CN's acquisition of Wisconsin Central this past October
added $17-million to the quarter's results, according to a news report.

BNSF Donates Abandoned Right of Way in Missouri for Trail

Burlington Northern Santa Fe has donated 5.8 miles of an old right of
way near Springfield, Missouri, to Ozark Greenways for use as a hiking
and biking trail. The line had not been used for service in more than five
years. The trail will be used to connect Springfield with the Frisco Highline
Trail, a right of way which BNSF had previously donated.

Rail Corridors Proposed in Texas

Texas governor Rick Perry has proposed a $175-billion, 4000-mile network
of "tool roads" and rail corridors next to current interstate
highways. The proposed Trans-Texas Corridor would rely on a combination
of public and private financing, and would include tracks for both high-speed
passenger and freight service.

Edward Jordan Dies

Edward Jordan, the first chairman and chief executive of Conrail, died
on December 26. He was 72.

By Amtrak to Portland, Oregon

[By Allen Brougham] . . .

Here I go again! Another Amtrak adventure - my third within the past
12 months. (Retirement certainly is great...)

Portland was chosen because (1) I had never been there, and (2) it gave
me a good excuse to go someplace in the winter. It is, after all, a wonderful
time to travel - to experience the pristine beauty of nature in its most
peaceful setting (and to do so when the trains are the least crowded).

A more subtle reason for taking an Amtrak trip is that the future of
long-distance trains is in doubt. "Have fun - sounds like it may be
your last ride," wrote one of my contacts. At issue, of course, is
the matter of funding to keep the trains running. Stay tuned on this one.
But one thing is for certain: The best way to show one's support for Amtrak
is to patronize it. This is especially true in the winter when the company
is in need of all the passengers it can get. The powers that be may or
may not find the justification to keep this national treasure in business,
but public support is the best solution if it is to happen.

My day of departure was Monday, January 14. Routing was as follows:
Washington to Chicago via #29, Capitol Limited; Chicago to Portland via
#27, Empire Builder; returning same route on #28 and #30. Accommodation
was provided in the sleeper (standard bedroom) the entire way.

An ominous sign of great concern prior to the trip was the conspicuous
absence of the Sightseer Lounge on #29 three of the last four times I had
seen the train pass through Brunswick. Those were on January 4-5 and 11-12.
(I was there on those occasions while working my PTI job.) "Oh, bother,"
said I, as I wondered if this feature would evade me on my upcoming adventure.
Surely, not having the panoramic perch to wile away the time en route would
be a real bummer. I even asked an expert on such matters, with the discouraging
response that a number of the lounges were being shopped, with no immediate
plans to restore them to service. (Cash flow issues - concentrate on the
other stuff first, etc., etc.)

I connected from Baltimore to Washington on an Acela Regional, thereupon
checking into what is now called the "Club Acela" (renamed at
Northeast Corridor stations that have them from Metropolitan Lounge). It
was a mostly clear day, almost spring like, and I wandered over to the
U.S. Capitol for a look around, returning to the lounge just a tad bit
too late to join in the processional to the train. No problem, though,
as they arranged a special escort just for me.

Along the way, I noticed that a Sightseer Lounge was indeed included
in the consist (right on!), and this put my mind at ease, at least for
this leg of the trip. Following our on-time departure, I made my way to
the lounge before the train had even reached Fort Totten, and for a while,
I was its only patron. And with no prompting required, I made it a point
to give my customary toast to the PTI van assembly area at Brunswick -
and then, not more than 50 yards away from me, as we passed WB Tower, I
spotted van 8413 (the one I usually drive) as it meandered by going the
other way. That really made my day!

Once it had gotten dark, I made my way through the coach portion of
the train. Including those in the lounge, and those in the upper level
of the coaches, I counted 53 passengers.

For dinner (last call) I enjoyed Prime Rib, and I was joined at the
table by a gent from Westchester, New York, en route to Denver.

The following morning, Tuesday, I awoke in Toledo, Ohio. It was overcast.
The passenger count had increased overnight; I heard that there were now
about 70 in the coaches and 28 in the sleepers. A very light snow was falling
as we rounded the wye in Chicago to cut off the rear end mail and express
cars, and when we came to our final stop in Chicago we were 22 minutes
early. (That's right - early!)

The Great Hall, into which I went to pay proper homage, was still adorned
with Christmas decorations, and the large flags which had been displayed
from the balconies on my September trip were no longer there. Meanwhile,
a phalanx of shipping crates sat outside the Amtrak Intercity offices in
the mezzanine of the Jackson Boulevard side of the station; I being told
that the offices were being vacated in favor of space elsewhere in the
neighborhood.

I then looked at the monitors to see how the other trains were running.
Wonder of wonders - all of the inbound Western trains were marked up to
arrive on-time! ALL of them! In fact, none of the other trains were late
either. (I don't EVER recall seeing THAT happen.)

The Metropolitan Lounge - the refuge in Chicago for sleeping car passengers
- slowly began to fill. To this I was pleasantly surprised, not expecting
that business would be that brisk in the midst of winter. On the other
hand, the lounge is only large enough to accommodate a moderate number
of guests; at times of peak demand, it often overflows with folks having
to stand around or sit on the floor for lack of sufficient seating space.

The train left Chicago right on time. My sleeper - the one to Portland
- was on the rear of the train. The other sleeper - en route to Seattle
- was on the front (behind the crew car). Sandwiched between the two sleepers
were: the diner, a handicap coach, a smoking coach, the Sightseer Lounge,
a baggage coach and a handicap coach. This meant (for me) having to make
a rather lengthy walk to the diner (but probably I needed the exercise
anyway). The rear portion of the train from the lounge on back represented
the Portland section, to be split from the forward portion at Spokane,
Washington.

I made my way to the lounge in short order, noting that the landscape
was devoid of snow until we entered Wisconsin. While in the lounge, I met
a young fellow from Korea who was returning from a visit to New York, Baltimore
and Washington while on break from studies (of English) in Vancouver, B.C.
Once it got dark, I returned to my room to await last call for dinner,
and from my darkened room I looked upon the snow-swept terrain as the train
sped its merry way into the night. What a wonderful way to travel!

They made my dinner call, and I thundered my way forward, there to partake
of the Porterhouse Steak (absolutely delicious, A-OK) topped off (this
one time, only) with the richness of Amtrak's famous Turtle Pie. At the
table I was joined by a lady en route to Staples, Minnesota (near Lake
Woebegone, she said), another lady en route to Portland, and a chap from
England who was touring the U.S. with a very favorable impression of Amtrak.
Our trains are "much better organized" than those of his country,
he said, adding that British trains don't always run on-time either.

Wednesday dawned mostly cloudy with flurries, but with but only a little
snow on the ground as we sped across the wonderful state of North Dakota,
having breakfast while we dwelled in Minot. By the time we crossed into
Montana, it had cleared. It was 17 degrees in Wolf Point, according to
a bank sign near the depot.

At the beginning of lunch we entered a brief snow squall, I being joined
in the diner by a couple from Minot en route to Havre. It had been a very
mild winter so far in the Northern Plains, they said, adding that temperatures
had topped out in the 50's in Minot several days earlier. I related to
them my own visit to Minot in 1992, recalling the pleasure of seeing the
restored one-room schoolhouse on display at the city's Pioneer Village.
The wife laughed as she explained that she had been a teacher at such a
one-room school many years earlier - but only for a couple of weeks. It
seems she gave it up because she had to sleep at the school overnight,
as it was so remote, and the place had mice! She added that there are still
a few one-room schools functioning in especially remote areas.

We took the siding at Harlem, Montana, to await passage of the eastbound
Empire Builder, which was announced to us. Then, in a flash, it zoomed
past at 79 miles per hour - and then we were back on our way.

During our stop in Havre, Montana - a service stop during which passengers
may detrain - I noticed a group of U.S. Border Patrol agents on and about
the train. They even accompanied the Korean fellow I had met earlier back
onto the train from the platform, presumably to check his papers. It seems
this is now a routine happening at Havre. Although we never cross the border,
our close proximity to it makes the Empire Builder a sometimes route for
illegal aliens who make their way south from Canada and then onto the train
for further travel east or west. At times the agents use dogs - to sniff
out drugs or whatever - and have even been known to ride the train between
stops, according to on-board staff members who have seen it happen.

West of Cut Bank, Montana, it got dark, and from my right-side darkened
room I looked out upon the plains, deserted save for a distant cluster
of lights, straight as a ruler, dancing along the horizon. They gave the
appearance of a line of traffic on a busy road, or a runway with an inordinate
number of lights, and they glowed for many minutes without discernible
difference as we approached them from afar. They were the lights of Browning,
Montana, and the illusion was due to the way the railroad approaches the
place and the fact that the line never gets into the heart of town. Browning,
the headquarters of the Blackfeet Nation, is a seasonal stop for the Empire
Builder (in warmer months the train stops at East Glacier instead), and
we made our stop at its lonesome station with a single vehicle (a van)
to convey whoever boarded or detrained.

I recognized East Glacier (Glacier Park station) and the Glacier Park
Lodge as we passed without stopping. This had been my Amtrak destination
in June 1998. In the summer this is a beehive of activity; now it is a
place in sleepy hibernation. I stayed sequestered within my darkened room
as we ascended the mountain to Marias Pass, and then to dinner. I was joined
once again by the gent from England, and from the menu I chose the Chicken.
Also, I enjoyed a glass of wine, and then another. I wanted a third glass,
too, but when they had only enough wine left to half fill the glass, I
got that one gratis.

Early the next morning, Thursday, I awoke and made my way to the Sightseer
Lounge. By now our train had been separated from the Seattle section, and
with us no longer having a dining car, breakfast (such as it was) consisting
of a ham & cheese croissant sandwich, cut fruit, yogurt and beverage,
was made available in the lower level of the lounge. I was joined at the
table by a couple from Madison, Wisconsin, the husband being a retired
railroad maintenance worker. It was at this point that I would have preferred
that the train be a little late, in order to view more of the area in daylight
- but, alas, we were exactly on-time.

Our train now consisted of one locomotive and four passenger cars, the
lounge being the first car behind the engine, and I spent some time standing,
looking forward from the front of the car over the top of the engine as
we sped our way along our route next to the Columbia River. As darkness
turned into dawn, it was somewhat overcast with some high fog over the
river. It is a very picturesque route, something that would be better seen
in the summer when the days are longer.

On my way through the train, I counted 40 passengers in the upper level
of the lounge and two coaches.

We arrived at the destination, Portland, 15 minutes early.

My hotel, Vintage Plaza, is a short taxi ride (or a moderate walk) from
the train station, the hotel being modernized within an old building in
Portland's historic downtown district. It was here that I reviewed literature
on things to do - the style I often follow (intentionally) by avoiding
such research ahead of time when visiting new places. (I like surprises!)
All I already knew of Portland was that it had a classic train station
and a light-rail line. What I then learned anew is that it had... Streetcars...
and it was to them that I opted first to explore.

Indeed, taking public transit (streetcars, or whatever) is an ideal
way to explore a city. I went to the nearest stop, thereupon reading the
posted fare structure and schedule, finding them ambiguous, and I simply
decided to follow a couple of ladies onto the car to see what they did
about paying the fare. But then, just as the car arrived, one of the ladies
turned to me, asking: "Where do we pay the fare?" Oops!

Together, with the help of a local who was already aboard, we found
the fare paying machine in the middle of the car, and almost falling over
like bowling pins as the car accelerated around curves, I was able to get
a coupon good for (I guess) a round trip. There was a coupon validation
machine on the wall, too, but the local said we did not have to get the
thing validated (but he even seemed unsure of this himself).

The fare system in Portland is low-key; in fact, I need not have even
paid a fare at all, so long as I remained within the downtown "fareless
zone."

The streetcar was modern, in no way resembling any I had ever ridden,
articulated, with a pantograph, and probably what would be called a light-rail
car if it were not referred to by the system as a streetcar instead. It
makes a loop of the downtown area taking about an hour to complete its
circuit. It crosses the light-rail line a couple of times, and even has
a switch to it. I soon learned that a streetcar (which is shorter and more
tightly fitted than a light-rail car) can operate on the light-rail line,
if needed, but the light-rail cars cannot operate on the streetcar line
because of the tightness of the curves.

Meanwhile, what lay in store was quite a pleasant surprise, and this
would present itself two days later when a "vintage" trolley
got put into service (more on this later).

Friday dawned overcast with a light rain (typical for Portland at this
time of the year). For this occasion I plotted an idea to cover four activities
within a five-hour period, to wit: (1) ride a Talgo train, (2) visit a
one-of-a-kind train station, (3) ride the Coast Starlight, and (4) eat
lunch in the diner. It was a no-brainer (Allen's have-fun-and-eat-lunch
idea), and I bought a ticket to Olympia and back. Golly, those Portlanders
have it made: They can do the same thing any day of the year (and I suppose
some of them do). Such fun, and so easy...

I left on the 8:45 a.m. Cascades heading north. I found my first ride
in a Talgo train to be sleek and smooth. The low-slung equipment permits
increased speeds in places (speed signs along the right of way show three
categories: T, P and F). Maximum speed is 79 miles per hour, but there
are plans to increase this to 90 miles per hour sometime in the future,
according to a crew member. The train has reserved seats, large windows,
and there are TV monitors showing our position on a map, the current time,
the expected time of arrival at the train's destination, the temperature,
the name of the next station, and points of interest as we passed. Later,
they showed a movie. It was all very classy! I sat with a nice lady from
Eugene, Oregon, en route to Tacoma, Washington, who travels the route often.

The train arrived at Olympia's Centennial station 18 minutes late. (Time
was short, and the station is not within walking distance of Olympia proper,
so I simply stuck around at the station.)

A flashback: On my June 2000 Amtrak adventure to West Glacier,
Montana, on the return trip, I met three ladies who were en route to Washington,
D.C., to receive an award for their work in restoring the Olympia station.
Now I got to witness the fruits of their efforts first-hand, and there
on the window glass of the counter was a photo of the leader of the group
accepting that award from Amtrak's president, George Warrington.

CENTENNIAL STATION . . .

[From a fact sheet furnished at the station]

Centennial Station was built by the non-profit Amtrak Depot Committee.
It was opened in May 1993 after a six-year effort by citizens of Thurston
County.

The old train station at East Olympia had been razed in the late
1960's and a wooden bus shelter served as Olympia's station for 20 years.
The site was remote, had no public transportation, no lighting, a pot-holed
gravel parking lot, and a public telephone that rarely worked.

George Barner, Thurston County Commissioner, responding to increasing
public complaints, formed the Amtrak Depot Committee, made up of community
volunteers, to address the issue. The group first met in April 1987 and
began the search for a new site. The group was successful in having the
county donate a four-acre site for the station. The first phase of the
project, the access road, parking lot and the platform was paid for by
a grant from the State of Washington utilizing "Stripper Well"
funds obtained from gas companies which had overcharged consumers for fuel
purchases during the 1970's.

The station itself was built using funds generated from private individuals
and companies through the sale of engraved bricks and corporate tiles.
Once sufficient revenue was generated, a project manager was hired to oversee
the construction and to secure donations of services, products and labor.
Approximately $100,000 was raised in cash and $300,000 in products and
services. The State of Washington provided $60,000 in additional funds
to install utilities.

The building was designed by architect Harold E. Dalke, who donated
his work. It is 2800 square feet in size, and although designed in the
manner of classic rail stations, features state of the art energy conservation
and construction. The decorative corbels under the roof overhang are the
only "old" construction. They were obtained from New Orleans,
are made from solid cypress, are 150 years old, having been saved from
houses on Cherokee Street. They were donated by individuals throughout
the community.

The station features the latest in electronics that provide airline-style
scheduling information to patrons and cover the platform and parking areas
with video cameras. The station is staffed by volunteers during the morning,
mid-day and evening. Volunteers also open the station to arriving travelers
during late hours when trains are running late. No one arrives by Amtrak
to Olympia to a closed station. The volunteer program, designed and run
by Rich DeGarmo of the A.D.C., serves as a model for communities across
the country contemplating a similar program.

Amtrak has called Centennial Station "the best new station in
the country," and featured the depot on their 1993 calendar. Eight
Amtrak trains per day stop at Centennial, and plans are now being made
to expand the facility to handle commuter trains from Tacoma and Seattle.
Centennial station is a tribute to the ability of the community to achieve
any goal.

My return trip to Portland was booked aboard the southbound Coast Starlight,
#11, one of Amtrak's premier trains. I had long wanted to ride it, and
here was my chance. I went immediately to the diner, but it was full, so
I waited in the Sightseer Lounge until a table was ready. I was joined
in the diner by a couple en route to the Bay area, and by a lady transferring
at Sacramento to the California Zephyr en route to Winter Park, Colorado.
My menu selection was Chicken Pot Pie. As a coach passenger on this side
trip, I was not afforded the same amenities as a sleeping car passenger,
but I did get permission to take a peek inside the Pacific Parlour car
(exclusive turf of those riding first-class) before the journey was over.
Very nicely appointed, I thought.

Back in Portland, I spent the bulk of the afternoon riding the light-rail
line. There are two lines - red and blue - and I rode portions of both.
The trains are fast, efficient, and a superb way to see things along the
way. I also found the folks in Portland to be very gracious and friendly.

Saturday, my last day in Portland, began mostly sunny, interrupted for
a while by a light rain. I returned to the streetcar line, this time to
ride one of their "vintage" trolleys. Portland has four vintage
trolleys which (at the time of my visit) were only scheduled to operate
on weekends, slotted to operate hourly between the times of conventional
runs. They are actually replications, built in 1991 to resemble cars which
had operated on the system between Portland and Eugene, Oregon, many years
earlier. There is no fare to ride the vintage cars - which operate with
a motorman and a conductor - but donations are accepted. With my donation,
I was presented with a Portland Vintage Trolley pin.

I checked out of the hotel at noon, walked to Union Station, and checked
into the Metropolitan Lounge. In contrast to the busy lounges in Washington
and Chicago, the one in Portland was ominously quiet. In fact, I was its
only patron for nearly three hours, and by train time there were only three
of us. Boarding was announced, and two of us from the lounge presented
ourselves at the sleeper, there being told that the train was not yet ready
for us. Oops! All that was needed was a step-box, though, and after a wait
of about four minutes, the wayward step-box was found, and we got aboard.
Subsequently, two other patrons boarded the sleeper, and we left from Portland
with all of four passengers in the car. (The count later expanded to six.)

Something I was looking forward to - at least to the extent of seeing
what would be offered - was dinner. Remember, the Portland section of the
Empire Builder has no diner, at least until the train links up with the
Seattle section during the wee hours of the night at Spokane. So, what
would we in the sleeper be given as dinner?

Well, it was a prepackaged (cold) affair consisting of five shrimps,
cocktail sauce, two tomato wedges, coleslaw, pasta, lettuce, crackers &
cheese, cut fruit, and a large brownie. It did not match the finer traditions
of an Amtrak dinner in the diner (which I knew it would not be), but it
was at least acceptable under the circumstances, perhaps even a little
more so when I was offered a second dinner (this time roast beef, also
cold), and then even a third one (which I declined). But the coup de
grace came a little later when I was presented with a complimentary
bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, evidently Amtrak's way of placating its sleeper
patrons for its lack of traditional on-board cuisine. Wow!

But there was more to come... Indeed, since we had so few patrons in
the sleeper, and there was an overstock of Cabernet Sauvignon (24 bottles,
by my count, to be shared by only six people, some of whom didn't want
any), my attendant told me to take as many bottles as I wanted - while
the supply lasted. (I took just one more.)

In the meantime, while on a break between my two meals, I had ventured
forward to the Sightseer Lounge. While vainly looking in the direction
of the Columbia River, which in total darkness revealed only lights from
its dams and whatever was in the river at the time, a young fellow - perhaps
17 - sat down and asked me where I was headed. "Baltimore," said
I, not knowing if he even knew where that was. He then explained that he
was in "desperate need of a ticket" to (I believe he said) St.
Paul. I asked him (if really needed a ticket and didn't already have one)
how he had gotten onto the train in the first place. To this he had no
reply, but reiterated his need for a ticket. I then suggested that he check
with the conductor to see if the next station had an agent - he could buy
his ticket there... The lad then walked away without further comment. (I
guess he wanted me to buy him a ticket - Ha!) Maybe he was an illegal -
or a runaway - I don't know. Anyhow, police were at the next station, and
he was taken away.

Sunday morning, I made it a special effort to arise early - although
it was still dark in western Montana - to get to the diner by 6:30 a.m.
En route to the diner (at the other end of the train) I counted on the
upper level 26 passengers in the Portland coaches and 54 passengers in
the Seattle coaches. I was joined for breakfast by a couple from Minnesota.

It was not too cold in Whitefish - 32 degrees by one estimate - and
a sizable group of folks boarded. We left Whitefish on-time - by now it
was bright enough to make out the landscape - pacing an eastbound stack
train on the adjacent track for several minutes. The ground was snow-covered,
the skies were cloudy. I took up my position in the Sightseer Lounge to
cover this, the most scenic portion of the trip.

Our stop at West Glacier was met with no activity at all. Snow covered
the platform and there were no footsteps anywhere. The place seemed devoid
of life, save for an occasional vehicle on U.S. 2. (This had been my Amtrak
destination in June 2000.)

Then, as we ascended into the mountains, we encountered a rather heavy
snowstorm. Effortlessly our train glided along with snow blowing around
in all directions. Visibility was greatly reduced, but the mountains could
be faintly seen, their pristine presence untouched in Nature's realm. It
was fabulous! Along the way, we were met by several freight trains, all
neatly tucked away in sidings in deference to our scheduled time slot.
(BNSF did a fine job clearing our route, both ways, I'm pleased to say.)

As soon as we topped Marias Pass, the snow abated, and by the time we
reached the bottom of the mountain and began our run upon the Northern
Plains, the sun shone through. By then, the landscape was clear - no snow
on the ground.

I was having lunch in the diner when we made our service stop in Havre.
Once again, Border Patrol agents were out and about. One of them came through
the diner making eye contact with those who were there. A friendly nod
was exchanged. It was interesting. (He was profiling folks, I guess, but
I understand that with their training and experience they can pick out
questionable people simply by the look on their face.)

Monday (a holiday) began cloudy, but later in the day it cleared. We
departed from St. Paul on-time, and passengers in the sleepers were given
two newspapers - Star Tribune and USA Today. I was joined at breakfast
by a gent and his young daughter for her first-ever train ride (to the
next stop, Red Wing), and by Uncas, a chap traveling from Wolf Point, Montana,
to Boston, where he is majoring in library science.

The passenger count had increased somewhat - by an announcement I overheard,
to 196 in the coaches - spurred by the inclusion of three tour parties
boarding in St. Paul. An additional coach is often added to the Empire
Builder to accommodate loading east of St. Paul, but not this time, as
there was plenty of room for everyone. Still, it looked great to see so
many seats occupied while earlier the train seemed so cavernous.

I went to the diner for lunch at the appointed time of 11:30, but they
were not ready. So I went back to the lounge where they were showing a
stupid movie. Hint: When a movie is showing, move to the middle of the
car, and the sound is not so loud. Anyway, daytime movies are not very
easy to watch because of the reflection on the monitor from the overhead
windows.

For lunch I was joined by three fellows - Jon, Kelsy and Jesse - from
Augsburg College, who had joined the train in St. Paul along with 18 others
on a field trip to Chicago as part of an elective course they were taking
called "I've Been Working on the Railroad." No kidding! Their
instructor, Noel Petit, whom I met later, explained that it is an interdisciplinary
course with four credits; the curriculum coinciding (not surprisingly)
with his own interest in railroads. He is a member of the Minnesota Transportation
Museum, and much of the learning had been hands-on at that location. They
had also visited a Canadian Pacific dispatching center, and in Chicago
they would visit rail oriented sites over a three-day period. Some, but
not all, of the students were on their first Amtrak ride.

I then hit upon an idea: With my sleeper having so few patrons
(and asking the attendant if it would be OK), I brought members of the
class back to the sleeper for a tour of the accommodations. The attendant
and I split the group, and each of the available type of accommodation
(except the family room, which was occupied) got a visit to show how they
functioned. Golly, that was as much fun as giving a tour of an interlocking
tower (which I've done a few times in the past).

We were on-time leaving Milwaukee, but later we got stuck behind a METRA
train. This is the way it always is, I was told, when the eastbound Empire
Builder is on-time. Somehow the slot method of scheduling gets tanked with
an on-time appearance (perhaps this is rare), and we were several minutes
back when we arrived in Glenwood, Illinois. Still, thanks to padding, we
were basically on-time when we arrived in Chicago. (OK, a minute late,
but who's counting!)

During the layover, Uncas (whom I had met at breakfast) joined me in
paying homage to the Great Hall (he understood exactly), and then we went
to the top of the Sears Tower. It was a great sight - visibility was good
- and we got to watch the sun set. Very impressive!

Back in the Metropolitan Lounge, I reflected upon how seamless the trip
had been going. No delays, nothing out of the ordinary, nothing to complain
about. I was fondly looking forward to my last dinner in the diner, and
the final leg of the trip.

Then came an announcement...

Passengers for #30 were asked to come to the desk. (Uh-oh!)

The train would be delayed for at least an hour, there would be no dinner
in the diner, and each of the sleeping car passengers was given ten dollars
toward a meal (in the station, or wherever).

I thought then, and still do, that $10 was scant compensation, but I
did manage to buy a supper (such as it was) in a station sports bar for
$9.57, sans beverage and dessert.

Boarding was announced, and we made our way to the sleepers. Along the
way, I noted that the Sightseer Lounge was there, where it belonged, in
the consist. We pulled from the station at 8:22, one hour and 42 minutes
late. We then stopped to add the mail, pulling once again at 8:40.

Amtrak, for its part, did manage to fill some of the void (of not having
dinner service) by inviting its passengers (gratis to those in the sleepers)
to the diner for dessert and beverage. Right on!

The train's customary speed run into Indiana was interrupted for about
nine minutes when we activated a dragging equipment detector (two hanging
hoses, we were told), and a second delay of about eight minutes (next to
Harrah's Casino Hotel) with no explanation given. By now we were about
two hours behind schedule. Following dessert, I walked through the lounge
and two coaches, counting only 45 passengers in their upper levels.

On Tuesday, the final day of my adventure, I awoke as we made our majestic
entry into Pittsburgh. It was sunny. I noted for the first time that my
sleeper was named "South Dakota." What? Amtrak does not even
go into South Dakota! Oh, well! The diner was open, and would remain so
until 10:30. This is in contrast to the usual arrangement with breakfast
service ending about 8 o'clock - but this time the diner would remain open
longer since there would be no lunch service.

At breakfast I was joined by a lady en route to Wilmington, Delaware,
from Toledo.

For most of the balance of the trip I spent my time in the Sightseer
Lounge, thankful that it was even in the consist for me to enjoy (who knows
how long that will last!). East of Confluence, the train used the low-grade
line, a rarity for passenger trains, and possibly new mileage for me! We
stopped at Rockwood to change engine crews (but not the train crews), remaining
there for about 10 minutes. Since the train now makes this stop in each
direction, there has been some talk of making it into a scheduled passenger
stop.

East of Hyndman, my eyes followed the old PRR right of way, long since
abandoned, and I pondered the opportunities if it were someday made into
a bike trail. (There has been talk of it, I have since been told, but there
has not been much enthusiasm for the idea locally.) Leaving Cumberland,
we were one hour and 35 minutes late.

We arrived in Washington one hour and 17 minutes late - not bad by historical
standards. But I did get home to Baltimore on-time.

It was a great trip.

I hope I will be able to do it again... and again... and again. It's
up to Congress, now!

Coast-to-coast Amtrak travel is a superb way to relax, see the country,
and meet people along the way. Travel in a sleeping car, with all of its
amenities, is a very pleasurable experience. It is, however, somewhat pricey.
My ticket for six nights on the train cost $1,452.30, complete. (The cost
of sleeper space alone, exclusive of basic rail fare, was $1,158.00.) This
was full-fare, not using discounts from my rail-travel privilege card,
which has a number of restrictions. What I paid may or may not be the same
for travel at any other time of the year, but fares are generally higher
in the summer. The fare for sleeping car travel is four to five times greater
than by coach, but meals to sleeper passengers are included in the fare,
not by coach. For a cross-country journey, you can figure the cost of dining
car meals at about $40 per day. Lesser-priced items are available in the
lounge car. You can bring your own food aboard, but it must be consumed
at your seat. Sleeping cars have four types of accommodations. The standard
bedroom, which I used, is the least expensive. It accommodates two passengers,
but it is my recommendation that it be used only by one, unless the second
passenger is a child. (The room is quite small, and there will be a problem
with luggage you wish to keep in the room if it is occupied by two people.)
The economy bedroom of Viewliners has more room for luggage than the corresponding
room of Superliners. The deluxe bedroom is more ideally suited for travel
by two, but it, too, can be quite cramped. If togetherness is not a necessity,
I would recommend booking two economy bedrooms rather than one deluxe bedroom;
the price should be about the same. The handicap bedroom accommodates two
people and has somewhat more space than the deluxe bedroom, but its use
is reserved for (at least one) disabled passenger(s) unless it is the only
thing available at or near train-time. The family room (not available in
Viewliners) has space for two adults and two (not very tall) children.
The deluxe bedroom and handicap bedroom have sink, toilet and shower facilities
(the economy bedroom of Viewliners also has a sink and toilet, but not
in a separate annex); patrons of other spaces make use of facilities, including
shower, elsewhere in the car. Remember, sleeping rooms will not be the
same as a hotel room. Amtrak offers family fares, and at different times
of the year it has promotions, such as two-for-one fares. "Leapfrogging,"
the practice of booking sleeper space only at night and coach space during
the day, may help to reduce the bite of long-distance travel cost. If you
can be flexible in your itinerary, some days of travel may cost less than
others, even within the same week, so it may pay to take the time to check.
For further information call Amtrak at 800-USA-RAIL, or log onto www.amtrak.com.