Chef Alex Raij has a way with the cow's tastiest undersung muscle. Like Mom concealing the veggies in a mound of mashed potatoes, she presents the lingual treat in the sneakiest possible format: braised, breaded, fried and served over a mustard-and-cornichon sauce, or layered in a crusty, mayo-slathered baguette. Txikito240 Ninth Ave between 24th and 25th Sts (212-242-4730)