Our cookbook of the week is Bangkok: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Thailand, by Thai cooking expert Leela Punyaratabandhu. Over the next four days, we’ll feature recipes from the book and an interview with its author.

Thai omelettes can take many different forms – folded or rolled, puffy or thin. They can be plain or stuffed with various fillings such as crabmeat. “But two things hold fast: a Thai omelette is typically seasoned with fish sauce and is meant to be eaten with rice,” Leela Punyaratabandhu writes in Bangkok (Ten Speed Press, 2017).

Omelettes are a favourite in the Thai capital, where she says they’re enjoyed any time of day – whether in the home, at restaurants or on the streets. Here, Punyaratabandhu highlights an “underrated and underused ingredient” in the omelette itself: slivers of preserved radish (pickled and dehydrated daikons).

“Even when (preserved radish is) used sparingly—almost like a condiment—as in pad thai, its absence would be acutely felt by anyone familiar with how pad thai is traditionally made in the city,” she writes. Find preserved radishes at Asian grocery stores, and be sure to buy sweet rather than salted for this recipe.

PRESERVED RADISH OMELETTE WITH CRISPY BASILServes: 2

In Bangkok, Punyaratabandhu shares recipes and stories from her hometown.Ten Speed Press

Step 1

Pour the oil to a depth of 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm) in a wok or Dutch oven and heat to 375°F (190°C). Line a sheet pan with paper towels and set near the stove. While the oil is heating, rinse the basil leaves, shake off any excess water, and then use a kitchen towel to pat them as dry as possible without bruising them. When the oil is hot, drop in the basil and step back right away. There will be some splattering, but it will subside in just a few seconds. Stir the leaves around until the bubbling subsides and the leaves look somewhat translucent. Using a mesh skimmer, transfer the leaves to the prepared pan. (To minimize the splattering, you can skip the rinsing, but the fried leaves will turn dark green and brown rather than be a beautiful bright green.)

Step 2

Rinse the preserved radishes under cold running water for just a few seconds, then squeeze bone-dry. Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat with a fork until frothy. Stir in the radishes.

Step 3

Heat 1 tablespoon of the lard in a 10-inch (25-cm) frying pan (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat. When the lard is hot, pour in the egg mixture, spreading it evenly over the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat to medium and cook until the bottom of the omelette is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a wide spatula, lift up the omelette just enough to allow you to slip the remaining 1 tablespoon lard underneath it. Then, instead of lowering the omelette back into the pan, flip it over and cook the other side, pressing down lightly along the way, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

Step 4

Slide the omelette onto a serving platter, top with the crispy basil, and serve immediately with Sriracha and rice. Another popular way to serve this omelette is to incorporate it into a set meal with plain rice porridge, omitting the sauce.

Note: Preserved radishes are sold both salted and sweet. Be sure to get the latter for this dish.