TRIAS

Joaquín Trías explored vertical lines this season, inspired, he said, by "the silhouettes of trees one after the other." Essentially, this was a dress-heavy collection in a palette of black and neutrals, with the black shades varying slightly in depth and complexity. That was a nice touch, which Trías and his team achieved by starting with bolder tones—reds and blues—and transforming them into something dark.

TRIAS' simple silhouettes also had more going on than was apparent at first glance. Almost all the dresses had a square panel floating off the back, like a cropped rectilinear cape. It was an interesting way to add volume, but the concept was repeated so many times by the end of the show that it lost its oomph. An unflattering pair of Bermuda shorts in silk faille suffered from an excess of layered and pleated fabric. That was a shame, because the material itself had a gorgeous luster; it looked great with one of the show's highlights—ombré hand-knit tights with pointelle detailing up the back. In a collection marred by repetition, one-off niceties stood out.