Cream sauces, like cod, are not the height of fashion...but cod and cream taste so delicious together you may want to swim against the stream for one night only. This dish has a wonderful, comforting, cuisine-bourgeoise quality; it's like something out of a prewar kitchen in northern France. And the cream sauce is on the light side, cut further by the enlivening acidity of tomatoes and onions. Serve fluffy rice or boiled potatoes on the side. Serves 6

Directions:

Divide the butter between two 10-inch skillets. Place the skillets over moderately low heat, and divide the mushrooms, onion, tomatoes, shallots, white wine, 2 tablespoons of the minced parsley, and thyme between them. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are softened and the liquid is almost evaporated.

Divide the créme frâiche between the skillets and bring to a bare simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the cod, dividing it between the skillets, and cook very gently, turning once, for 5 to 8 minutes (when the centers of the fish are milky white, the cod is done).

Transfer the cod to a platter. If you wish the sauce to be a little thicker, boil it for 1 to 2 minutes, or until it is reduced to the desired consistency. Pour the sauce over the fish, garnish with the additional parsley, and serve hot.