I mean... There's an epidemic, you take a card from the bottom of the deck to put 3 cubes there... and it turns out it's black, for example gibraltar, and there are no cubes there. .. By the malaria rule, should you put extra cube because there are no black cubes? That would be an automatic outbreak !

The same if when you draw the card from the bottom of the deck, it is a yellow port. I have to put three cubes... Does that involve applying the yellow fever rule and also putting a cube in adjacent ports? In the FAQS I understand that yes, this is the correct way

I have one core-set + kickstarter gods. Can you advise me a few versatile decks that can be built based on that? Because I am already fed up with standard single-color decks and want more variety, but I'm not particularly strong in deck building.

Suppose this situation: Serbia has fallen to the CP and the "AH Fleet" event becomes active. In the following WA turn the "Salonika" event is drawn. The active AH fleet means that the WA cannot move an army to Greece before defeating the AH fleet in the WA combat phase. And no army in Greece (or Bulgaria) and Serbia CP controlled means that Salonika is closed. This is a bit strange because the allies can do nothing to avoid this.

There's nothing in the rules about hyperparasites and Red Queen attacks. It makes sense that they could attack their parasite host and steal cubes just like a parasite could; where it becomes more problematic for me is the parasite host attacking back. First it steals back the mutation cube from diseased, that's fine. What about after that? Normally, a host red queening the parasite biont absorbs the biont as a foreign gene/endosymbiont, but a parasite doesn't have space for those. So what happens -- is the hyperparasite driven extinct, biont returned with compensation?

I just noticed that my copy of the game misses battle goal card #468. As I, while checking the forum, noticed that this might have been an issue in other copies as well, I would like to know if my card is really missing or it just might be part of any still to open content.

If it is really missing, maybe someone could geekmail a picture of it...(image)

I've played solo four times and got hammered every time. (image) The game play feels very similar solo to cooperative with two (which we have managed to win once out of three plays, but only with one survivor), so I wonder why solo players must start with only three health per explorer. Would modern gaming as we know it end if I just went ahead and gave myself four per explorer? (image) What's the thinking behind this change?

For Powers with "To Discard: Spend X Aether", does the X aether have to be spent on a single turn (similar to normally gaining a card), or is it a cumulative X Aether that can be spent by different characters over multiple turns (similar to dealing damage to a minion).

For example, take "To Discard: Spend 6 Aether". Does it work if player 1 spends 4 Aether on their turn. The next turn is player 2's, and they spend 2 Aether, for a cumulative total of 6, which discards the Power.

My gut is telling me that the above example is not allowed, and that a single player must spend all Aether to discard the Power in a single turn. But I wanted to see if there was any difference of opinion.

In the Nocturne set there are Night Duration Cards such as Guardian and Ghost Town that can only be played during the Night Phase which comes after your Buy Phase. Our question is if you put a Night Duration Card in play during your Night Phase does it just stay in play for your next turn only and then it goes to the discard pile during the clean up phase or does the Duration card stay in play for two full turns of yours?

Does the card being in play during the Night Phase count as the first part of the Duration, then during your next full turn, then discard?

When I read the rule book the first time, I understood it as healing using the omphalos as a once per game sorta power. However after reading the online faq , apparently I can do it more than once? So have I misinterpreted the ruling on the book and it should be understood as you can heal using the omphalos card as many times as you want , so long as you have any remaining cards in your hand. Also can it be done all in one turn ?

Can anyone point me in the right direction of a FULL list of cards(quests, events, artifacts ect...) for Darkest Night 2nd edition? I have searched forums, the compendium, everywhere I can think of and cannot find a complete list of ALL cards that should come with DN:2E. The closest I have is a card list for the Necromancer Bundle which is a good chunk but not EVERYTHING that comes in the 2nd edition. My Minis Box came with 2 Wizards and NO Exorcist mini (image) so before I send an exchange to ShipNaked or VPG I want to make sure I have everything else.

Learned this game from a backer later week and am interested in picking it up to play with my kids, but I'd like to know if there are any components I'd be missing with a retail version of the game. Thanks!

recently received my copy of Mythos Tales. I had played the free pnp Arkham Investigator cases, and really enjoyed them. But I am not a big fan of the 170+ page booklet. Is there any way to get a digital version of all the cases and print them individually? I would gladly trade my copy away and purchase the necessary files if there was a way.

This is a minor issue I've been wondering. When an attack targets multiple targets, is there a specific order in which each individual attack should be done? Does it matter if a monster or a player is performing the attack?

This is relevant sometimes, for example, you may know the contents of an attack modifier deck and want to play around that. Or maybe a teammate has retaliate and will kill a monster when attacked by part of their multi-target attack.

Hi all, first post so not sure if this is the correct section. I have been obsessed with gloomhaven, it's an addiction... and so I decided to take the plunge and try my first time painting miniatures ever. I thought I would like to get more experienced painters thoughts on my painted minis so far. I started with the brute then the vermling, then the scoundrel.

I didn't do very well with the scoundrel due to all the tiny details, so it has disheartened me a bit.

I feel too anxious to paint the rest now just in case I make a mistake. Let me know what you think! Harsh criticism accepted and any tips appreciated - only way I can get better.

We've got an overage of some extremely limited edition Cordelia Chase and Alternate Xander Harris cards for the game. These cards are signed by the actors at an exclusive Buffy party at Lynnvander Studios.

I gotta say that I enjoy the game in all it's simplistic style. Played 2 games during a couple slow hours at work, something this game seems to mesh with nicely.I found it pretty easy to remember where in my turn I was when I had to step away a couple of times since I made sure to keep my dice neatly separated.I had the pdf to use as a reference open on my iPad and was drawing the hex-map as I went along.

First try ended by turn 9 in a desolate ricepaddy, bleeding to death due to fatigue...

Second try lasted for 19 glorious turns and one hex between me and the safety of the river. You know what I rolled? Yup, sniper.

From their Facebook post. The errata in the journal and script book are easily marked for referencing the FAQ but the cards...well I for one hope they at least include updated cards with the correct rules in the upcoming expansion.

I have always been treating combat encounters when cursed where only 6's count. However *spoiler* the back of a cursed card reads "a monster ambushes you. Only 6's count as successes on your test". Does this imply combat encounters while cursed allow rolls of 5 to work?

Once again our hosts Nick, Gregiore, and Alicia sit down to chat about Dust 1947. In this episode our hosts continue to speak about the merits and awesomeness that is the Axis. In this continuation we speak about the Luftwaffe and NDAK factions.

by Sam and Max
Introduction: With the Thief, we're entering intermediate difficulty, if you choose to paint the eyeballs in the conventional miniature style. Beginning painters may wish to stick with the "slit" eyes as shown in the art. The Thief also has many small areas, requiring fine detail, much like the goblin eyeball's blood lines. His hair is also black, and black is one of the more difficult colors to paint -- you can't shade it, for one thing. Since this is a single-piece miniature, mold lines were easier to remove than previous models.Eyes: In the artwork, the eye "socket" is the same complexion as the face, so you may need to use a rather fair complexion to make the eye "slits" visible. With male figures, I usually use a more tan complexion, so didn't do this. If you do paint the eyes in the conventional miniature way, I suggest widening them so that they're easier to paint. Myself, I also cheated by having the eyes look in one direction, which also makes them easier to paint. Search on "miniature painting eyes" for numerous tutorials on painting eyes. If you plan to continue painting miniatures, you should learn ALL of them, since you will have eye sockets of different sizes, and will find different techniques useful when you make a mistake and have to repaint the eyes.Blue, Brown, and Black: Thankfully, most of the Thief is in blue, which is an easy color to paint. I also underpainted the figure in brown (just give a quick brush-over with brown, and not worry about getting it into the recesses), and left this brown visible for some of the brown parts of the figure, reducing the amount of work I needed to do for painting. I primed the miniature in black to take advantage of the shading black prime provides. You can, of course, prime black and undercoat brown multiple figures at the same time. As before, black and brown pot paints were convenient to paint from, since I could paint directly from the pot. In blacklining, you trace the small recesses of the figure in black or brown. You can use a wash mixed in with a little paint. When painting the mustache and hair black, hold the miniature up to the light, and paint a small amount of grey where the light reflects. Search on "miniature painting black" for tutorials.Paints: Army Painter wine-brown Soft Tone Ink wash and black Dark Tone Ink washes are useful for shading miniatures, without risking the "dirty" look of the brown Strong Tone Ink wash. If you'll be painting more miniatures, you can get all three in the Army Painter Quickshade Ink Set.1. Prime in black.2. Undercoat in brown, except for the blade.3. Wash in a dark wash.4. Paint the face.5. Paint the eyes. 6. Paint the hair and mustache black. 7. Paint the leggings and pocket in olive-green.8. Paint the coat in light blue.9. Paint the bag, epaulets, and cap in darker blue.10. Paint the sleeves in grey.11. Paint the bag in ochre mixed with orange.12. Paint the gloves and small bag in ochre.13. Blackline and wash the figure with dark and brown washes. You can mix a little paint in for better coverage.15. Paint the buckle and blade in silver. 16. Paint the shaded part of the blade darker silver.17. Paint the hilt in a brown metallic.As before, I didn't follow this exact order. I left the hair and mustache brown. With some area[...]

I want to make sure I get this straight. A target mech has FULL COVER if a building is blocking the one and only shortest path from the attacking mech. Does that building HAVE to be adjacent to the target mech or just somewhere along that one shortest path?

To even be eligible for partial cover, does the target mech HAVE to be ADJACENT to a building?

Barricades, can they be placed anywhere (e.g on the streets, in the open) or only up against walls of buildings?

The coloured player tokens, how exactly are they used because I feel like I never get to play them? Are your tokens only used to give to other players so they can use your ability and likewise you can use theirs? I understand it as each character has an ability for everyone else to use or is their a way you can use your own (e.g Rick can activate his ability to roll an extra die on himself)

I understand you need to have at least one trust.

Also, why does the game start with 1 of these coloured tokens for each corresponding player on the player board?

I've started building a 'visual crib sheet' for each ship to, hopefully, facilitate quicker squad building. The idea is to, for a given ship, provide a range of specific build options as well as provide a reference to facilitate making new builds on the fly. I think this could be useful for new players but also potentially for more experienced players who just don't play as often or otherwise need a refresher on builds for a specific ship.

Anyhow, I thought I'd share a few in case others find them useful or have ideas on how to improve them. I don't claim credit for any particular build listed by the way, I drew a lot of inspiration from the internet for the builds.

I'm considering backing this on KS. How much randomness is in the game, how much is based on luck and how much is down to your strategy and seeing it through?

As a follow-up question to the first, how much player interaction is there? I understand that you can and should take into account what effect your actions have on other players, but how important actually is it? Wouldn't be the first game in which you could focus on your opponents, but in practice you are better off to do your own thing

I really loved the X-Men Epic Mastermind option. The only thing that sucks is that there are so many great Masterminds that the original ones are kind of easy/boring. Is there any chance there will be a booster pack of the original Masterminds, giving them an epic update? I’d buy that in a heart beat.

Probably most of them DESERVE a nice update now that some D-lister like Pagliacci has an epic version, but I’d take just the original 4... I mean Dr. Doom... I mean he’s saved the multiverse dang multiverse!

To make loading the platforms easier, I put the corresponding miniature number in each slot, as well as color-coded each slot and miniature base. The color-coding of each base also helps distinguish the miniature types when multiple types are crowded in a single zone during game play.

I am trying to verify if I am missing any cards, and I seem to have too many for the two races whose numbers don't match the count in the rulebook. Does anyone have or know of a list of cards breaking down to which group they belong? Races would be the most useful, but I could see the other groupings being useful as well (research, etc).

Hey all! The app team really wants your help with a couple of the planned features - if you've any favourite matchups, matchups you really didn't like, or any ideas for cool "side quest" sorts of achievements we can put in for particular gods, we'd love to have your input here:

And if you leave your email address, we'll put you into a draw for a prize! (We'll email you to discuss which of our games you should get next. Everyone who has already filled the survey out is already entered to win.)

Hey ya'll!So I just played this game at my FLGS' game night (twice in a row) but we had some questions:1.It says when the monster is defeated, you immediately resolve the rewards and reset, is this properly interpreted?2.It says immediately, but do you finish the turn first (phases etc) or do you just go right to the next one? We still lost but for some reason finishing out the turn seems too forgiving. At the same time, it's probably for continuity reasons.It's going to be hard not continually bringing this one! Thanks gamers!

We have a lot to cover on this episode! With so many regionals and decks evolving and changing every week we brought on Agent of Zion and Hexen from Artificery to help us breakdown all the meta decks in detail. Hero vehicles, Hero mill, Sabine/X, Kylo2/Talzin, One Turn Kill, Obi/Maz, Hondo/Yoda and Tarkin/Seventh Sister get ripped apart by some of the top players in the world. We cover how each deck functions, good/bad matchups, cards/plays to anticipate and ways to tech against each of these decks. So sit back and relax as we cover this wild meta to help improve your Destiny gameplay.

by paulmalchow
Idea: Varandova, the small Principality on the Black Sea, long renowned for its folklore and rumors of werewolves, has been ruled for the past hundred years by Prince Vysce. The scion of the royal house of Varan, he spent his youth researching alchemy. Acquiring a supposedly cursed tome he soon discovered he was a genius at manipulating and exploiting the dark energies of his homeland. He rose to power during the tumult of the Great War and held his country together against the attempted incursions of the Soviet Union. His command of Alchemy grew to the point that he arrested his aging and could generate eldritch blasts. Having mastered alchemy, he moved towards technology after the deployment of the Nuclear Bomb during World War II. He built himself powered armor when the Soviets began building missile sites just across the border from Varandova. After clashing with the Soviet hero the Kosmonaut and Alexander the Great the prince constructed a robotic army to increase his defenses. But that wasn't enough for him. He built a doomsday device and targeted Moscow, but Doctor Tomorrow sacrificed his life to explode the technological monstrosity before it could be activated. The Prince's hands were destroyed in the explosion and he became obsessed with American super heroes. He constructed two high-powered metallic clamps to replace his hands. This made him an even more deadly combatant. Stories of werewolves, called Lykani, have been as synonymous with Varandova as Vampires are with the Court of Blood. Prince Vysce, now called Prince Vice by the American newspapers, confronted a werewolf and captured it. He used his alchemy and science to create a process for transforming his soldiers into wolf-men. They proved instrumental in aiding him against his new super-powered foes. Varandova still contains gypsies, called Vandarir, and secluded villages, but the presence of the werewolves and its super-powered tyrant make the Principality a dangerous, horror-slanted and classic comic setting. CARDS:Prince Vysce HP 14Varandovan, TyrantThis card is indestructible unless it has 4 or fewer HP. At the end of the Environment turn, this card deals the hero Character Card with the most Ongoing and Equipment cards in play 2 energy damage. That player may destroy one of their Ongoing or Equipment cards. If they do not, this card deals that target 3 melee damage.“Heroes… Heroes took my hands. They spoiled my plans; shamed me! But I will not be defeated and now I shall have my revenge!” -Prince Vysce, Union of Heroes #6Rogue Werewolf HP 7LykaniAt the end of the Environment turn, this card deals the non-environment target with the second-lowest HP 2 melee and 2 toxic damage. “Zhe beast comes at night. Only at night.” -Vema, Night of the Wolf One-Shot Wolf-Man Guard (qty 3)HP 3 Lykani, VarandovanAt the end of the Environment turn, this card deals each non-Varandovan target 1 energy damage and 1 toxic damage. “I care no[...]

Hi, I'm a little confused with this card (upgrade): 1-2Hammer-1wound: REACTION: After this attack action, if it is succesful, you can push this fighter one hex

My main confusion is that the card is labelled as a reaction one. Should this not be an action, with an special effect? The card is not played as a reaction. If I understand is played during the active player turn as an action.

What happen if the other player wants to play a reaction card? According the rules, the other player should apply first his reaction card, before the active player. Would it be possible that: 1) active player use the attack printed in the card, but before aplying the effect (moving the warrior 1 hex) the non-active player could play a reaction card, making not possible the 1 hex movement?

We are still confused by this. Apologies if it's been asked, and maybe we're just stupid. But...

How do the rules on page 7 restrict what is on page 4?

Page 4 says that you must move (you're not given an option) when the brown sector is 0.

Page 8 says as a restriction, you may not remove unless both 0 sectors are empty.

Page 7 says, "whenever both brown sectors of a Production wheel are empty at the same time, immediately rotate that wheel". That t seem like a restriction. Or even necessary. Since page 7's rule triggers when the right side is at 0, doesn't page 4 cover it? Is there some reason not to rotate the wheel per page 4?

Plus, the reworded "You may not rotate a Production wheel unless both brown sectors are empty." isn't a restriction, either. It's the compete rule, while page 4 has the partial rule. It seems to supersede page 4, unnecessarily as far as we can tell.

"Instead of offering one of your objects for trade on your turn, you may instead offer the top card of the object pile. If your trading partner refuses the object, you may keep it. If he accepts it, it does come into effect as usual.

The rulebook clarification says that

"The player may offer the object from the top of the draw pile instead of a card from his hand to his trading partner. He may look at it and then MUST (my emphasis) trade this card to his partner."

The Merchant card text says

"Instead of giving back one of your objects in a trade, you may look at the top card of the object pile and give it to your trading partner afterwards. This object does come into effect as usual.

The rulebook clarification says that "The player may trade back the object card from the top of the draw pile instead of a card from his hand. He may look at the card before deciding"

So it appears that as the Fence, IF I decide to offer a trade AND I look at the top card of the object pile, I MUST trade it, but as the Merchant I can look at the top card of the object pile, and then NOT trade that card, but one from my hand????? Is this correct and if so what happens to the top card of the object pile? Does it go back on top of the pack?Also is the Merchant's ability then mandatory if activated? ie Suppose I have a single bag and are offered a bag for trade by another player. Can I look at the top card and then decide not to trade at all or once I look at the top card I must trade something?

Finally come across a game mechanic I couldn't find the answer to anywhere.

One player is placing their agent on Shadowdusk hold, which requires that they place resources on 2 other action spaces. If they are to place one at Waterdeep Harbor, does it count for the very next person to play an agent anywhere on the Harbor, or just for the next person to play an agent on the exact slot the recourse was assigned to (I assume the latter)? If the latter, does that mean you can place both at Waterdeep Harbor? Also, would that mean someone could be enticed to take the 3rd slot before the 1st or 2nd, and is that even allowed?

Further, how does this apply to Cliffwatch Inn? Could two be placed there?

If I had to use my own interpretation here, I would say that each slot is counted as different, and you can place them all at Waterdeep Harbor if you wanted to. Further, I would say that you can place your agents at whichever slots you want in Waterdeep Harbor, each being its own entity.

So we have one Necromancer already on the board. In the next round we are spawning horde cards and another necromancer shows up. So...

1. We add a walker, fatty, and runner to the horde mob.

2. Do we add another spawn zone in the zone where we were flipping spawn cards to begin with? We have a question with this because with one necromancer on the board already, we will not have one enter the board so we can't place a spawn zone where he entered like the rules say.

3. We understand that the existing necromancer gets an additional activation.

by Papasmerv
So I've been wanting to use my old first edition Star Trek cards for something and knowing I would never get any of my game group to play the actual CCG I've been cooking up a sorta combination of it and Star Trek: Fleet Captains with some components from Star Trek: Ascendancy.Any comments on how this could be better are welcome.First thing I did was take one of each unique personal and three of each universal personal from a faction and formed a Personal deck from them. Then I did the same thing with their ships and added one of each faction specific equipment card. Shuffle these together to make a Tech Deck. I also made a Personal deck using all the non-aligned and dual affiliation personal and a Tech deck from non-aligned ships, dual affiliation ships, and one of each of the other equipment cards. I just made a deck of all my tactics to use for damage. The tactics are far more interesting and thematic to me for damage than the original rules. I also made a deck of one of every dilemma and mixed that all together. Finally, I made a deck of one of every mission and shuffled that together (per quadrant).During set up, each player chooses a faction and takes their Personal deck, Tech deck, the three fleet markers from Ascendancy, some of the ship models from Ascendancy (to mark completed missions), 3 command tokens (from Fleet Captains or Ascendancy) their factions home world mission, their HQ, and a stack of their faction's outposts.You set the board up like you would in Fleet captains using the hexes. These hexes are never flipped over, they're just for marking spaces. Each player's home world and HQ are placed on the hex closest to them. Right now I've been playing it so each HQ is five spaces away from each other. Each player shuffles their decks and flips three cards from each face up. These are the cards you are able to recruit. The non-aligned decks are shuffled and dealt the same way and anyone may recruit from them (faction allowing).Each turn you have three actions you can use. You may spend an action to recruit 2 cards from a deck. Once recruited you must immediately report them for duty at a legal location. Each ship you have is kept in front of you and you use one of the fleet markers from ascendancy to represent them on the board. This means you will never have more than three ships at a time. You may also spend an action to activate a crew/away team. This includes using a ships range (which can only be done once per turn)then attempt a mission, build an outpost, or begin a battle. I don't think using the transporters should constitute an action. Would just bog things down. When you move a ship onto a hex that doesn't have a mission on it yet (requires 1 range), you first draw a card from the Dilemma deck. [...]

I was reading through the Deep/Root designer thread and controversy, and I couldn't help but think that the two designers, publisher, and 3 random BGGers should play a live-streamed game to determine if there was a breach of contract and who should retain certain rights to Deep. Completely impossible right...? (I would totally pay per view that)Obligatory link- https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1944526/official-status...

I was wondering if anyone has used TI as a force for good, to resolve some real world arguments that just couldn't be decided any other way?

Due to popular demand, I'm going to take a look at expanding my solo rules to incorporate both the Valhalla and the Dark Mountains expansions. I may also convert my solo variant into a competitive variant as opposed to a beat your high score variant.

If you have any thoughts or suggestions prior to my starting work on this, feel free to chime in. Not sure how long this will take me, but it's on my list and I'm going to begin focusing on it this week.

Due to popular demand, I'm going to take a look at expanding my solo rules to incorporate both the Valhalla and the Dark Mountains expansions. I may also convert my solo variant into a competitive variant as opposed to a beat your high score variant.

If you have any thoughts or suggestions prior to my starting work on this, feel free to chime in. Not sure how long this will take me, but it's on my list and I'm going to begin focusing on it this week.

Just got this out and unpacked. How does the “Young Dragon!” printed on the Circumstance tuckbox come into play? I haven’t seen it in any of the rules.

(As a side note, it’s confusing as hell to have rules spread out between a rulebook, half a dozen handouts, and printed on the back of tuckboxes of all places. A consolidated rulebook would be really welcome. That said, this game looks really fun, can’t wait!)

According to E12.1.4 "Defending Armies must be eliminated beforeTribes and Roads. "

Let us consider the game configuration with a British army in Punjab, a Russian army in Kandahar and a British road on the connection between Punjab and Kandahar.

If I as a player loyal to Russian empire want to take a campaign action and destroy the British road can I do so from Kandahar? Or do I need to eliminate the British army in Punjab first? (for which I'll need to have two Russian armies in Kandahar to start with and also take a baggage train to Punjab)

I want to mod another forum game because I improved a lot from the last game the forum did. I would like a high elo opponent.

Since the forum played USSR last game, I would like for the forum to play US. Standard +2 with optionals. As for the caliber of opponent, I think it should be at least 1700+. I would love a 1900+ or 2000+ opponent though.

Romans may Battle and Scout during a Command with Special Ability. These may occur in any order.

My questions are:

1)Must the Auxilia move to a different Region prior to performing the Scout Special Action? If an Auxilia moves in place (same Region) can it perform Scout?

2) May the Auxilia "Scout" then move? Or must it move before "Scout".

The following is my understanding of the rule:

Auxilia may:

A) Battle then flip to Revealed in one Region, then move to another Region but may not Scout since they are already Revealed. Only at the start of a March Command do Marching Auxilia/ WBs un-flip to Hidden.

B) Scout within 1 Region of Caesar, flip to Revealed and move into another Region and Battle.

C) Scout in the same Region as Caesar, then flip to Revealed and Battle with his group. Scout is probably only effective against a 3rd Faction in this case.

The assassin doesn’t kill the guards because they each could still be in play that round and future rounds. The assassin doesn’t kill a suitor because that player is still there in future rounds although knocked out in that round. I see the assassin as a dirty tricks operative but not killing anyone during this part of the history of Tempest.

I just played my first 2-handed game of this as a Tooth and Claw game in preparation for my soon to be solo game with all the rules.

During the game I saw an interesting phenomenon that I think would not happen with the full game: Lots of ties. Since there is no such thing as size or humidity, in most situations only a single color of cubes would determine the winner, and many creatures had the same number of that color cube. So. easy ties. And all the ties were won by the player with the lowest skeletal value.

That's a huge advantage isn't it? Do you get any advantages for having a high skeletal value (In the T&C game. Things are different when plants have special rules)

I had a situation with a regular in an area that prevented muster. I placed a hinder muster marker so when I moved the regular the muster wouldn't activate. On the next turn when the hinder marker is removed, does the gather marker automatically flip because the regular had been there, or does it treat it as if the regular was never there? I'm thinking the prior since they already rousted the population regardless...?

+You can end your movement on a occupied Hex. (You can therefore take actions etc... on said Hex) (For considerations that matter on direction {Ex. Shockwave} act as though your ship is still on the Hex Adjacent[Last Hex of movement before ending on a occupied hex]) (For Hexes inside the Klin you must first be inside the Klin to move onto a occupied Hex)(Note Attack Actions for all Weapons Except Missles may be made at Range 0) If your turn ends while on a Occupied Hex you move back onto your last adjacent Hex(Adhering to all movement rules and yes you could end up bouncing off planetary shields and the occupied hex until death).

I just got a treasure cache that says I destroy it to level a hero, however I do not have any valid heroes to level (two treasure heroes in hand). Do I just lose that effect and destroy the cache, or shuffle the card into the treasure pile and draw again?

1. Arms dealer Missions. Does said person have to go and pick up an outfit to sell or do they obtain one when they complete the first part of the mission?

2.Nano-Regeneration (The Krembler). Does Nano-Regeneration fix ice Damage? More importantly Should it?

3.Logical Inconsistency in shields. The shields have very specific (written) situations in which they can be used. Ice damage is currently not a time that they can used (as written). More importantly should they be able to? Just to throw some mud into the situation it is written that shields can block ice damage that comes from a discovery token. Also they currently can't be used to block energy loss from the EMP burst from Bitter Karma but can block the damage. {I realize in my attempt to portray all the information that the logic train may have been lost. I apologize}.

4. Shockwave from Slow leak in the Klin. Who chooses what direction the ship is being pushed?

I'm happy to hear all suggestions or my misreadings of the rules. Also i will be posting what are you house rules soon.

by gjjaros
I've been enjoying Eight-Minute Empire quite a bit, but there are often times when I want a solo game to spend some time with, like when I'm waiting for my kids to get out of an activity or something. The other solo variant here seems great, but it requires adding a die, managing two AI players, and referencing a priority list for various actions that the AI players can take. I wanted something super quick and simple to play where all you really have to think about is your own turn. So here's my solo variant for Eight-Minute Empire:Eight-Minute EmpireSolo VariantBy George Jaros – GJJ Games – http://georgejaros.com/GJJGamesSetup- You start with 11 Gold.- The AI doesn’t use Gold.- Place 3 of your Armies on the Start Region.On Map 1:- Place 2 AI Armies in the Start Region.[/li]- Place 1 AI Army in every other Region on the starting Continent.- Place 1 AI City on the ∆ Region of every other Continent and the island.- Optional: Randomly place Goods tokens on the three Regions with AI cities as well as the three Regions not connected to the starting Continent by a water route (dotted line). You should have four unplaced Goods tokens.On Map 2:- Place 2 AI Armies in the Start Region.- Place 1 AI Army in every other Region on the starting Continent.- Place 1 AI Army on each Region connected to the Region Continent by a water route (dotted line).- Place 1 AI City on the ∆ Region on each of the other Continents and the island furthest away from the starting Continent.- Optional: Randomly place Goods tokens on the three Regions with AI cities as well as the three Regions on the islands and smaller Continent to the north of the starting Continent. Also place Goods tokens on the two spaces adjacent to the AI city on the larger Continent to the west of the starting Continent. You should have two unplaced Goods tokens.GameplayYou take the first turn, as usual. Give any Gold spent to the AI.On the AI’s turn it will simply take the left two cards in the lineup (the 0 Gold and first 1 Gold cards).End GameThe game ends after the AI’s turn when you’ve taken your 10th card. You should end with 10 cards a[...]

by cjpeach2004
Another day and another spotlight!Who is Nightstrike?Hiroshi Lee. World renowned archaeologist was on a dig in middle of the far east. He had been asked because when a delicate job needed to be done fast, he was the man to call. Precise and focused, he was the fastest, most reliable in the business. Hiro had grown up in the suburbs. Son of two well educated parents. He had few burdens that he himself had not chosen to take on. His father was a noted historian, so the move to archaeology was natural for him. A love for everything historical was in his blood.On his far eastern dig, while bantering with Sierra, his on again off again romantic interest, Hiroshi fell through part of the site. Though he had broke nothing... he awoke in a underground temple of a sort. Appearing in front of him was a giant shadowy dragon.The Dragon was Ijiri, Dragon of the Dark. He explained to Hiroshi the battle, that had been going on for centuries. Ijiri the dark dragon had battled Tatsumi, dragon of the void. This eternal battle would go on forever. Each one having an avatar through their weapon, battling in a fateful encounter each time, until one fell. Another would pick up the blade, and the dance of the dragons would begin again. This power and blade the dragon was bestowing on him was essentially a death sentence. One day Tatsumi's avatar would come for him... and one day he would fall. Hiroshi knew that this gift was temporary, that he would need to make the most of THIS life. So he took up the blade, with all his brand new powers, and decided he would use his gifts for good. Becoming the Nightstrike, he would fight the darkness with the darkness he now controlled. Nightstrike Stats and PowersNightstrike, with the powers of Ijiri and his blade, has 5 across the board for Health, Energy and Speed. In no way though does that make this swordsman average! In fact, the 5 Speed is nuts for non speedsters.His traits are more unique than the previous 2 spotlights. Nightstrike first has Teleportation. A trait that allows him to move ignoring.... everything, but at a higher cost. The trait in the mi[...]

because the FAQs say that you are supposed to only refer to the modifier card itself and not other game effects. I alway interpreted this as including the actual value of the attack, but maybe it is the wrong interpretation.

So, my question is: I have "attack +1, Advantage" and I pull "x2" and "+2". Which one applies? Please motivate your answer.

The website only says "150+ cards" I own the game and discovered some cards lying on the floor and now I'm worried that I have them all. Here's what I have - is this all the crads? If not, what am I missing?

Small cards:36 cards that say "73+ players" on the bottom15 cards that say "4+ players" on the bottom11 cards that say "5+ players" on the bottom16 cards that say "6+ players" on the bottom9 cards that say "7+ players" on the bottom15 cards that say "8+ players" on the bottom8 Wild cards that say "Replaces another Wild card" on the bottom

I know this might be a stupid question, but let me confirm.[o]In the Campaign Guide for The Pallid Mask, I can read 'you found Nigel's adobe' in some sentences.This should be 'Nigel's home', shouldn't this?[/o]Or this confusion came from lack of my English skill?

They shipped them in a plain envelope totally unprotected. Not only are they totally bent, they're damp. I'm lucky I only needed Living Bones #4, one of the only undamaged pieces, but I was planning on saving the extra everything-else as safety.

Good luck to people who actually needed components to play the game. If I needed that map tile or some significant number of these pieces and had been waiting to play I'd be livid.

So I was pretty excited to get this, being interested in Polish history and thinking the gameplay videos I saw were pretty interesting.

I got my copy today and opened it up to find cardboard chits for the estates. Every video I've seen has wooden pieces. I looked on the back of the box and it lists cardboard chits as estates, so I guess I should have looked at the description more when I ordered the game.

Still, I probably would not have purchased the game if I had known that. What happened? Was this an edition change?

There appears to be two versions of the rules out there that contradict each other.

The "old" version, as posted on The Games Cabinet, implies you can parry a direct attack by simply matching the number of cards in the attack, and the attack total. e.g. an incoming attack with 3,3 can be parried by 4,2 or 5,1.

The way I've been playing based on translations of the Ferti edition is the attack can only be parried by an exact match of cards. e.g. an incoming attack of 3,3 can only be parried by 3,3.

I only picked this up by reading an old, old review of En Garde by Mike Siggins, and he was describing the old way. I think the old way sounds much better.

Can a deception block be placed in a contested hex containing only a 1SP block? Could the 1SP block then move out of the hex leaving only the deception block? Can all this be done where the 1SP is marked OOS? Would the deception block be marked OOS.

The Note under 7.2 Block Movement states that blocks NOT currently marked OOS but that do not currently have a supply line suffer the OOS movement penalty only. Are the blocks without a supply line marked with an OOS marker at this time or after they move as per 6.7.5 Out of Supply Movement or is the only time a block can be marked OOS due to a lack of a supply line be during the Supply Allocation Phase?

The Perfect Slayer is a Slow (Speed 1) Speed 3 weapon. This is an obvious contradiction! I played this as Speed 3 and ignored Slow. Is there an alternate interpretation? If so, please cite a rule if possible. Thanks in advance

Hi, I'm playing the french version of Charterstone and here are my questions

1-In the chronicles, the rule #7 states for the discard pile of the advancement mat:"Create a discard pile. When the deck is empty or if new cards are added, shuffle the discard pile with the deck."

So every time someone opens a crate with new advancement cards we take all the cards from the general supply and shuffle them with the new cards and the remaining cards in the deck?

2- The rule 21 first paragraph says:"The player who has open this box can win one random objective card. Shuffle the remaining cards in the objectives's deck". So this paragraph only applies at the game where the rule is revealed?

3-I just read this in the FAQ for french version:"The Index Guide (the loose piece of paper) should list box iv as one of the things to be unlocked by crate 32."

In our first game, one of our player opened the crate of a second buildind (crate #8) and it had a iv in the box column (with a bunch of cards related to minions in the other columns).Was it ok to open it? What is the thing about crate #32?

I had a question for the general community revolving around the differences between the 2nd edition and 1st edition monster tokens. I don't have the 1st edition tokens to compare with, but besides not showing how much damage the monster can take on the back what makes them different?

And sorry if this was already asked previously, my quick search through the forums may not have been thorough enough.

by AEGTodd
We just published a message to our mailing list and we want you to see this immediately as well. We are making changes to the Agent Reward based on the feedback we've received from the community. We will discuss this in more detail in the next Update, but we're previewing it for you now.* We are adding the Solo Play rules to the Agent pledge* We are adding the top & bottom Advancement Extension boards to the Agent pledge* We have identified some future Stretch Goals that we will add to the Agent pledge if and when they're unlockedThe team worked overnight on figuring out how to add value to the Agent pledge in a positive way and these are the things we are able to do. We really appreciate the input from the community and are happy to continue to hear your ideas & suggestions!—-A lot is going on here at AEG central! As many of you know, Thunderstone Quest began being received by Backers this week, which has generated a lot of inquiries to our customer service desk, plus a lot of rules questions and other community interaction all over the internet. Also, we're prepping for the big industry retailer & wholesaler show that GAMA, our trade association runs every year and some tasks have arrived that require us to do some prep work. As a result we're a little backed up and we are going to have to do a lot of multi-tasking in the next few hours. To avoid having everyone wait to see what the next Stretch Goal will be when we hit the $185,000 level, we're going to update the main campaign page no[...]

I was playing a DT the other day and I was the Paladin and my friend was the shadow thief. I had retribution and he was down to 2 HP. He was trying to get shadows and he couldn't get the roll but he did get the basic stab attack. We weren't sure if he had to since he rolled it or if he could choose not to. Thanks.

I suspect we may have played this wrong in our last game - could someone confirm please.

'River Skald' and 'Empower' were both in play and unexhausted.

'River Skald' was declared as an attcker - this allows Empower to be triggered ('after a player has declared attackers') which buffs the attack value of 'River Skald' and allows the player to draw a card. 'River Skald's ability is 'when you draw 1 or more cards during your turn you can place an exhaust token on River Skald' to effectively do 3 damage to a target unit.

If you use the ability, will you still be allowed to attack using 'River Skald' - he recieved the 'exhaust' after being declared as an attacker. Or, does the exhaust token received for using the ability prevent his attack, or possibly zeroise it?

For those who own and have played Time of Crisis. Compare that game with a game I see on Kickstarter called Donning the Purple. Both seem similar in theme but different in mechanic and cover roughly the same time period or at least the idea of a rapid succession of emperors and the struggle to claim that office.

List any key points, key differences, and similarities. I see one major difference is the card drafting in ToC.

I have a opportunity to pick up the fall of Arcadia campaign book and quest cards. I don't have any of the kick starter exclusives, so I wanted to know if any of the monsters that (or any other parts of the Kickstarter) are required to play the campaign.

I have the Core and beyond the grave, also be picking up inferno and pets soon