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Description

This super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.

Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.

This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.

The new Poudre guide recommends a 70m rope to rap or TR from the chains, but today I witnessed that 70 meters leaves you 7-10 feet off the deck. No fall/injuries thanks to an attentive belayer, but I thought it was quite easy to belay the second up and walk off the ramp.
Mar 6, 2010

You can rap from the chains with a 70m. It takes you to the top of a flake to the right of the route, where you can easily down climb, but yes you need to be careful not to fly off the end of your rope. I agree with Tanner though, it is just as easy to walk off.
Mar 9, 2010