Dartmoor National Park is made up of 360 square miles of pure beauty. I spent a weekend exploring the moors recently, and have missed the rugged landscapes, wooded valleys and semi-wild ponies everyday since I left. It’s a place that feels free. You feel as though you could walk for ever. It’s the kind of place you can imagine Jane Eyre or Bathsheba Everdene stomping across the moor with boots laced and trailing skirts hitched, clearing their head from patriarchal restraints.

Footpaths weave across the moors taking you from tops of tors, through woodland, and deep into the valleys. Winter foliage stands vibrant against the grey skies. Shades of gold and copper illuminate the landscape, and as you descend to the river, the route glows with shades of green.

Riverside walkways lead you to moss covered boulders nestled amongst gnarled trees. There’s a real sense of magic here, and the low boughs you duck under make it feel like a world that’s just been discovered. If fairies were to exist, you can be sure that this is where you’d find them!

The weather in Dartmoor is renown for being indecisive. Our final walk of the day saw us leave the car park with grey skies and a threat of rain, we ascended the tors in bright, crisp sunshine, and descended in thick, damp fog, losing the car in the process! Pack for all eventualities, it’s safe to assume you’ll experience all seasons in one day.

What to do on Dartmoor:

Explore – There are so many places to walk on Dartmoor, pull up in one of the roadside lay-bys and walk to the top of the nearest tor. For something more structured, grab your compass and map and check out Visit Dartmoor’s great circular walks. Keep an eye out for Hound Tor and it’s abandoned village, it’s said to be the inspiration for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s Hound of the Baskervilles!Get creative – Exeter’s Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery is currently showing an incredible collection of work inspired by Dartmoor. So why not channel your inner artist and take your sketch book to the top of one of the 160 tors and draw the view. If you’ve got little ones in tow, set the family a 2 minute time limit and see what you can come up with.Visit Buckland Abbey – A former monastery turned home that once belonged to Sir Francis Drake, Buckland Abbey offers incredible architecture and over 8 centuries of stories. It’s definitely worth a visit.Discover Lydford Gorge – Descend into the deepest river gorge in the south west and marvel at a 30m waterfall.

Where to stay on Dartmoor:

Go camping – Dartmoor is one of the few places in Britain where wild camping is still permitted. As long as you’re away from the road and inconspicuous to passersby, pop up your tent and sleep beneath the stars. If you don’t fancy completely roughing it, there are lots of campsites on the moor ranging from rustic to glamorous!Moorland Garden Hotel –Tucked away on the moor is the Moorland Garden Hotel. A relaxing little hotel set within a large garden. Lying in your fourposter bed and listening to nothing but the sound of birds outside, it’s hard to believe the city of Plymouth is just a few miles down the road. Relax in the Dartmoor Bar, or enjoy a well deserved feast in the AA Rosette-awarded Wildflower Restaurant.Bovey Castle Hotel – If a little taste of luxury is what you’re after, then spend the night in a nineteenth century manor house, built by the heir of the WHSmith empire. Dine in the award winning restaurant, and unwind in the spa after a long day walking the moor.

How to get to Dartmoor:

By car: If you’re coming from the north, head down the M5 to Exeter, then follow the A30 towards Whiddon Down. For those coming up from Cornwall, hop on the A30 towards Okehampton and head towards Dartmoor on the A386.By train: Exeter, Newton Abbot, Totnes, Ivybridge and Plymouth will all get you really close to Dartmoor.By plane: Many Flybe flights land at Exeter, from there your just a short ride away from Dartmoor.

]]>https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2018/02/10/a-weekend-exploring-dartmoor/feed/0Dartmoor National Parklaurapeta88Processed with VSCO with a6 presetProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetDartmoor National ParkDartmoor National ParkWinter trees, DartmoorRiverside walks across DartmoorDartmoor's greeneryRiverside, DartmoorProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetDartmoor National ParkPonies on Dartmoor National ParkA misty Dartmoor National ParkA misty Dartmoor National ParkRiverside walks across DartmoorDartmoor National ParkA Weekend In Wiltshirehttps://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2017/11/28/a-weekend-in-wiltshire/
https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2017/11/28/a-weekend-in-wiltshire/#respondTue, 28 Nov 2017 14:28:56 +0000http://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/?p=1939

This weekend I spent a couple of days holed up in a beautiful Air BnB cottage in Wiltshire catching up with the girls I’ve been friends with since school. It was a weekend of cosy village pubs, crisp country walks and fireside laughs that make your face hurt.

The cottage was in the small village of East Knoyle, the birthplace of Sir Christopher Wren – think thatched cottages and red brick homes surrounded by frosty fields. Our cottage couldn’t have been more perfect. It’s uneven wooden floorboards covered by Moroccan rugs, low ceilings and latch doors added to its charm. It was the perfect cosy home-away-from-home that none of us wanted to leave.

A public footpath ran alongside the cottage, taking us on a beautiful walk across fields home to friendly ponies, through woodland with a floor of crisp autumn leaves, past a disused windmill and brought us out to an amazing view point of the Somerset Levels just as the sun was setting. We stood and admired to serenity of the area before heading back along copper leaf-lined road back to our cottage to get ready for another pub dinner in a neighbouring town.

We rounded the weekend off by crossing into Dorset and heading to Shaftesbury, just a 5 mile drive from the cottage. It’s a quaint town with mix-matched cottages, a range independent and highstreet shops, and home to Gold Hill, or as most people know it, Hovis Hill. Although we didn’t cycle down it (kudos to the kid that did, that hill is steep!) we did walk down it. We admired the higgledy piggledy nature of the buildings lining the street and argued over which ones we would live in, despite the total impracticality of lugging your grocery shopping up the hill. The rolling landscape in the distant and patches of low cloud topped off that chocolate box feel.

Tucking into a Sunday roast at The Mitre we reflected on our weekend catching up in the quiet countryside and toyed with ideas for our next get together*. We don’t get to see each other as much as we would like now we’re scattered around the country, but there’s something incredibly special about being able to come together and pick up where we left off last time we were together.

*We’ve just booked tickets to Bilbao and we’re planning a little tour of the Basque country in July. Any tips on places we should visit?

]]>https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2017/11/28/a-weekend-in-wiltshire/feed/0Winter walks in Wiltshirelaurapeta88Air BnB cottage in East Knoyle, WiltshireThe view from the window of our Air BnB cottage in East Knoyle, WiltshireOne of the Moroccan rugs from the Air BnB cottage in East Knoyle, WiltshireWinter walks in WiltshireProcessed with VSCO with a6 presetGold Hill DorsetBest brunch spots in Cornwallhttps://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2017/07/29/brunch-in-cornwall/
https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2017/07/29/brunch-in-cornwall/#respondSat, 29 Jul 2017 07:00:26 +0000http://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/?p=1642Strong Adolfo’s

As a generation that’s apparently obsessed with brunch, I thought I’d do my bit to add to the stereotype. I’ve compiled a short guide to a few of my favourite brunch spots in Cornwall just in case you want to add to the millennial cliché, or you simply like to treat yourself to the best meal of the day.

On bustling Boscawen Street is a quiet haven of homemade quiche, cakes and a wicked weekend brunch.

As a vegetarian, brunch can sometimes be a bit hit or miss. Flourish’s brunch menu has a real mix for meat eaters, veggies and vegans alike. Their classic full English (pictured above) comes complete with homemade (slightly spiced) baked beans, a fried egg, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, sourdough toast and a fried tomato. But my absolute favourite thing to while away a Sunday brunch at Flourish with is the sweet potato, halloumi and poached egg on toast. Add to that order a bowl of hot chocolate and you can imagine you’re that cool Parisian girl from the Cartier-Bresson photograph you’ve always wanted to be.

Just outside Wadebridge along the Atlantic Highway you’ll find Hawkesfield, a roadside hive with an incredible café. Serving breakfasts and lunches inspired by flavours from around the world, Strong Adolfo’s is a place not to be missed. If I had to pick one thing from the menu (and trust me when I say it’s a struggle to choose just one) it’d have to be the bowl of homemade spiced beans, poached eggs, with avocado on toast and a large class of freshly squeezed orange juice. Try it, trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

You’ll be hard pressed to find anyone in Falmouth who doesn’t love a Good Vibes brunch, but I’ve met few people outside of the town who know about this gem. Located on The Moor, Good Vibes is a vibrant café where good food and side of positive thinking is at the heart of what they do. A laid back atmosphere, friendly staff and cinnamon buns with toppings ranging from white chocolate to rhubarb and custard, you can always be sure you’ll leave Good Vibes with a belly full of love.

A recent find and an immediate favourite, Box & Barber Coffeehouse is a beautiful white, double fronted cottage turned coffeehouse situated on Fore Street in Newquay. With seating outside and a few tables inside, I’d get there early to bag yourself a table. There’s only a small menu on offer in comparison to some other places around, but it’s got everything you need. I had the acai bowl and it was delicious. I was eyeing up a toastie too, but all in good time! I did get a power ball to take away with me, delicious a mix of dates, almond and coconut. I swore I’d make it last until 3pm, but it looked so tempting I caved the second I walked through my front door (about 45 minutes after I bought it).

If it’s pancakes you’re after, then Café Uneeka is the place to visit. Back in Truro and on the same street as Flourish, Café Uneeka is tucked away above the shop of the same name. Like Box and Barber, they only have a small menu, just toast, porridge and pancakes, but that is all they need. Choose from honey, banana and blueberry, halloumi, mushrooms and tomato, or maple syrup and bacon. Seriously, you won’t be disappointed.

Do you have any favourite brunch spots? I’d love to hear them, I’m always keen for brunch!

Walking around the cobbled streets of Portugal you can’t fail to noticed the famous azulejos. Brightly painted ceramic tiles adorn buildings and walls all around the country, and I became a little obsessed with photographing them at any opportunity.So much so, around 80% of all the photos I took in Portugal are of tiles.

Azulejos, a short history

Originally introduced by the invading Moors in the 13th century, Portugal’s azulejos started life as decoratively displayed polished stones. Later, painted ceramic tiles became popular and were used to cover large blank expanses of interior walls common in many Gothic buildings at the time. Whilst these tiles started with simple geometric patterns they evolved to become important canvases on which to relay Portugal’s rich history. By the 18th century painted ceramic tiles became an important part of the country’s architecture, and were commonly used for decorating the inside and outside of buildings. Today, you can spot tiles covering everything from churches and restaurants to homes and railway stations. And in some towns, you’ll even see them being used to display street names.

Whilst they were mostly blue and white, Portuguese tiles can be found in an incredible array of colours. From rich reds and golds, to pale blues and dusky corals, these beautifully painted tiles have become synonymous with Portugal over the last few centuries.

The perfect souvenir

These tiles also make a brilliant holiday gift. You can pick them up pretty reasonably and they’re a really beautiful reminder of days spent wandering down the streets of Portuguese towns. I bought a few tiles with my initials on to put in my study. Every time I look at them they remind me of my week in Portugal, and prompt me to keep planning my next trip abroad!

Since returning from Portugal, I can’t stop looking for tiles and am trying to find ways of integrating them into my house. So far I’m only using them to put under my houseplants in the living room, but I’m seriously considering tiling a kitchen wall!

Have you been taken in by the beauty of the azulejos? I’d love to see some of your favourite tiles, and if you have any other ideas on how I can incorporate a touch of Portugal into my home before I take to tiling every available space let me know!

I’ve just returned from a few days in Brittany, where hedgerows bloomed, and borders blossomed.

Brittany in spring is incredibly beautiful. The region’s flowers are in full bloom providing a surprise pop of colour at every turn. Town centres play host to beautifully designed floral displays, and bright bursts of colour zip past as you drive along the lanes. Yellow rapeseed floods the landscape, turning fields to gold in the April sun, and trees laden with blossom takes centre stage outside the small village mairies. Even the gorse we see so much of in Cornwall makes an appearance, peppering hedgerows and coastal scenes with dots of yellow.

If March showers bought these April flowers, I’m looking forward to see what May has in store.

There is something pretty spectacular about the Eden Project in Autumn and Winter. The paths winding their way to the biomes are littered with copper coloured leaves, and the early dusks fill the biomes with a warming, homely glow.

If you’re lucky enough to qualify for a locals pass, you’re entitled to free entry to Eden all year round with a one-off payment. I’ve definitely been making the most of mine, visiting three times in as many weeks and on each visit there is always something different to see. Each walk around the tropical or mediterranean biome reveals a different flower or plant I hadn’t noticed the week before. Over the last few weeks, plants in the biomes have started blooming, even though our native plants are starting to lose the fight against the cooler weather. The manmade structures inside are also changing. The Eden Project are expanding their Rainforest Canopy Walkway, and each time I’ve been a different section has been open giving the most incredible views over a tropical rainforest.

Rainforest Biome

The heat, smells and towering trees of the world’s largest indoor rainforest are a heady intoxication that makes it easy to forget that Cornwall is on the other side of the thick plastic hexagons that surround you. Paths lead you through the forests of tropical islands, Southeast Asia, West Africa and South America. A waterfall cascades down through the biome, a pool of water reflects the palms, ferns and plants that surround it.

As you make your way through the biome different structures and sculptures give context to the continents you pass through. A fully furnished kampang, garden and paddy field, show how a typical South East Asian home might look, and highlights the importance of plants for each culture. The garden of the Malaysian house, houses everything a family might need to keep the entirely self sufficient, from crops to building materials, and medicines to produce for selling at market. Areas of the biome also reflect on the Western world’s love of importing goods and the effect this has on the rainforest.

Traditional West African totems by Ghanian sculptor El Anatsui make an appearance among the plants. Sustainability is at the heart of everything the Eden Project strive for, and the sculptures were carved from reclaimed timber from Falmouth docks after it was part destroyed by fire.

As you walk around the biome, you realise how many things we take for granted originate in these dense, tropical locations. Cocoa beans, coffee, rubber plants, nuts, spices and fruits, including bananas and mangoes can all be found in the rainforest biome.

There is so much to see and take in in the rainforest biome, from the forest canopy to ground level. Little fungi thrive on the warm, damp conditions and colonies of them can be found nestled in the undergrowth, sprouting up wherever they find the perfect nook.

Eden have introduced a mix of animals to help keep pest levels downs. The incredibly cute roul roul partridges wander their way around the rainforest biome, crossing paths and darting into shrubs. There are rumours of lizards and tree frogs, but these, so far, have remained ellusive!

Mediterranean Biome

The temperate biome is noticeably cooler and drier than the rainforest biome, and is home to an incredible array of succulents, cacti and vegetation.

The entrance to the biome is shrouded in bright pink flowers. A cobbled floor leads on to the outside of a whitewashed building surrounded by terracotta – you’re definitely not in the jungle anymore. A mosaic pathway starts your journey through the Mediterranean, South Africa, South West Australia, Chile and California.

Fruits and vegetables grow in abundance. Citrus trees and olives groves fill the biome with bold bursts of orange and green. There are rows of brightly coloured chilli peppers and vegetables and the scent of fresh herbs fills the air.

In amongst the palms lies a traditional Mediterranean restaurant. With white washed walls, terracotta tiles and strings of bare bulbs, it’s like a scene from Mama Mia!

And as the sun starts to set, the biome is bathed in a warmth of golden light.

It’s so much more than a collection of plants. It’s a really educational experience, and, if you consider an area of primary forest the size of the rainforest biome is destroyed every 10 seconds, the Eden Project is a reminder of the fragility of the planet.

Walking from South Africa through to Asia, with a sidestep to the med is enough to satisfy my wanderlust…for another week at least.

]]>https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/12/09/eden-project-beneath-the-biomes/feed/0img_9667laurapeta88dscf2106dscf2323-recoveredtropical-biome-treesProcessed with VSCO with s3 presetdscf2123ferns-and-lake-eden-projectFullSizeRender-2.jpgdscf2161img_9666dscf2126dscf2120img_9665dscf2116dscf2104dscf2201green-and-purple-leavesspicesdscf2199mediterranean-biome-eden-projectpretty-pink-flowers-eden-projectwhite-greecian-buildingmosaic-pathorange-tree-mediterranean-biomeolive-tree-eden-projectlittle-chillis-eden-projecttiles-and-plants-mediterranean-biomeplant-tile-mediterranean-biome-eden-projectbiome-cafemediterranean-biome-setting-sunmediterranean-biome-steps-in-lightsucculents-eden-projectpretty-plant-eden-projectpretty-flowersbig-cactusranch-blanket-eden-projectmediterranean-veg-gardendriftwood-pigblue-doorDusty paths and hidden coves of Nečujamhttps://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/09/04/necujam-solta-croatia/
https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/09/04/necujam-solta-croatia/#commentsSun, 04 Sep 2016 09:13:08 +0000http://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/?p=934Looking at a map of Croatia, it’s near impossible to miss the abundance of archipelagos dotted along the coast line. After a few days exploring Split, we knew we wanted to spend the last part of our trip on one of these islands. I’d been reading about Croatia for a little while, and although I’d seen plenty on Hvar, Brac or Vis, I was quite intrigued by the little information on the island of Šolta, considering the proximity to Split. This intrigue swayed our decision, ferries were booked, and Air BnB was scoured for the next leg of our adventure.

GETTING TO ŠOLTA

Being just a 40 minute ferry from Split, this small, wooded island has been a firm favourite for Split residents past and present. The limestone island was once a summer residence of the Emperor Diocletian, whose palace walls we resided in in Split.

We’d been advised to book our ferry tickets online before we left England. We picked a time we thought might be good, booked the tickets and then promptly forgot all about them until the morning we were supposed to head to Solta. Luckily, although you choose a time online you’re not restricted to being on that ferry. As long as you use your ticket on the day, the time of day doesn’t matter. The ferry we were on was pretty empty too, so if you’re going as foot passengers like we were then don’t worry about booking in advance. Just rock up when you’re ready to escape the city and get your ticket.

The ferry from Split to Šolta takes just 40 minutes and costs 33 kuna, about £3. In peak season (July and August) the ferries run 6 times a day. We showed our true Britishness and formed an orderly queue to board the ferry. Locals bustle past eager for island life to begin. Cars, bikes and foot passengers pile on to the little ferry together, with a refreshing lack of healthy and safety! Fresh island supplies and a washing machine were loaded onto the boat and we were ready to go.

Sitting on the top deck, you can’t help but be amazing at the incredible number of varying shades of blue. Cloudless blue skies that are so bold overhead fade out to mountains in the distance. Brilliant blue waters are punctuated with little white boats sailing the Adriatic, and suddenly Split is the city on the horizon

FROM ROGAC TO NEČUJAM

Arriving in Rojac the two island buses were waiting for us. One bus runs west to Maslinica, the other east to Stormorska, and they both run to the timetable of the ferry ensuring you never miss it and it’s always there when it arrives! We hopped on the Stormorska bus and tried to guess when we arrived in Nečujam. The bus from Rogac to Nečujam is one the most picturesque bus journey’s I’ve been on. The winding roads lined with vineyards, olive trees and dry stone walls, lead up to Grohote, the island’s administrative centre, before heading back down hill to some of the most breathtaking scenery of the Adriatic ocean, islands and across to Crotia’s mainland.

AIR BnB

On arriving in Nečujam our Air BnB host was waiting for us. She spotted us immediately, bundled our belongings into her car and drove us the two minute journey back to her home.

Our little studio was just as it was on the listing, and our host was wonderful. Lunch had been prepared for us and was on the table when we walked in. There was water cooling in the fridge along with some homemade wine from the nearby vineyard her father worked at. This warm welcome really encapsulated how friendly the people of this island are.

Tomatoes, lemons and limes grew along the pathways of our Air BnB, with kiwis and grapes hanging overhead. A sheltered outside spot was home to a couple of nesting birds and an array of large butterflies. We quickly unpacked and set off to explore the area. We followed dusty paths down to rocky coves, caught a glimpse of a rather bemused nudist who thought he’d bagged the best secluded bay in the area, and watched boats sail around the island.

ISLAND LIFE

Our days on Solta were fairly lazy. I spent the majority of my time with Tess and Gabriel Oak, interrupting their frustrating interactions only with a dip in the sea from out private beach to spy on the Croatian sea life, or for a stroll to bakery. (Note: sea cucumbers and anemones are not my friends, but Croatian pastries definitely are – sorry waistline!)

Despite wanting a few days of relaxations, I tend to get a little fidgety if I’m lying still for too long. So although our island days were lazy, we did try to get a little walk in each day, before lounging in the sun. We attempted to walk to the neighbouring town of Stormorska after spotting a cycle path on a map left in our apartment. Off we set up hill out of the village with images of a flat, pine tree lined dusty trail ahead of us – we couldn’t have been more wrong. The crumpled geology of the island meant that we spent a lot of time walking up hill, and just as you reached the summit there would be another hill waiting. We kept climbing the rocky trail for a couple of hours, but in 34ºC heat and with no shelter, it certainly wasn’t ideal. After eyeing up another hill, and drinking all of our water, we decided to ditch our attempt to explore Stormorska and headed back to Nečujam to cool down in the sea – at least we tried.

We also had a failed attempted to visit the town of Maslinica on the opposite side of the island, but after talking to our Air BnB host, we realised the bus routes we’d mapped out weren’t quite as simple as we’d thought! She did offer to drive us to the Maslinica bus if we wanted, but we felt bad for the last minute change of plan to her day, so we decided to spend the day exploring the coves around Nečujam instead. We followed more dusty trails past the beach, yachts moored in the bay, little fishermen’s shack until we found a secluded spot shaded by pine trees and spent the morning snorkelling.

I don’t know why there is so little written about Solta. In Nečujam alone there are stories of Croatian poets and the Emperor Diocletian’s fisheries. It’s an island with incredible local produce, with winemaking, olive growers and bee keepers at the heart of the communities. Plus, it is insanely beautiful. I’ll definitely be heading back to Solta at some point, but next time I’ll be hiring a moped!

]]>https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/09/04/necujam-solta-croatia/feed/1Dust paths to secret bayslaurapeta88Processed with VSCO with c1 presetProcessed with VSCO with c1 presetProcessed with VSCO with c1 presetthe perfect reading spot in Necujam, Solta, CroatiaIMG_8883IMG_8890Processed with VSCO with c1 presetSunset over Necujam bay, CroatiaBoats moored in Necujam, CroatiaAbandoned building in Necujam, CroatiaRooftop restaurant on SoltaBoats bobbing in the bay, CroatiaClear Croatian waters perfect for swimmingFisherman's bench, SoltaSecret swimming spot, NecujamClear Croatian waters perfect for swimmingBeer garden with a difference on Necujam, CroatiaA place between the pines, CroatiaClear Croatian waters perfect for swimmingClear Croatian waters, NecujamSunset over Necujam bay, CroatiaSunset over Necujam bay, CroatiaFisherman's hut, SoltaPlitvice Lakes – The Closest I’ll Ever Get to Jurassic Parkhttps://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/08/16/plitvice-lakes-national-park-croatia/
https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/08/16/plitvice-lakes-national-park-croatia/#respondTue, 16 Aug 2016 06:00:34 +0000http://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/?p=649Before leaving for Croatia I’d seen pictures of azure lakes, waterfalls, and lush greenery; scenes that reminded me of Jurassic Park; images that looked like stills from a Hollywood movie. I knew I had to see for myself if Plitvice Lakes National Park really was as beautiful as it looked.

We arranged the trip to the national park with tour company Splitlicious, who oversaw our Air BnB in Split. It was an early start, but armed with cherry pastries from a nearby bakery we boarded the minibus at 7am ready to embark on the three hour journey. The minibus guide filled us in on the history and legends of Split and the surrounding areas as we sped through changing scenery. Coastal roadways gave way to mountain passes; we passed through villages with locals selling their wares by the side of the road, honey, preserves and olive oil; drove by graveyards, abandoned buildings and large fields.

As we crossed through the mountains the sun of Split was replaced by driving rain. A white T-shirt and sandals weren’t looking like my wisest of outfit choices! Pulling up at the entrance to the park I was relieved to spot a gift shop selling waterproof ponchos, no doubt one of their most sold items. We met our tour guide for the park, Mario, who explained that due to the geographical location of the lakes the area has it’s own changeable micro climate, saying he wouldn’t be surprised if it was sunny again within the hour – he wasn’t wrong. He talked through the day ahead, and mentioned that the park was home to bears and wolves – it’s not dinosaurs, but I’d be equally alarmed if I saw one lurking lakeside.

Mario’s passion for the national park was clear from the start. He took every opportunity to share with us all he knew about the area – the history of the park, the scientific importance of the lakes, even his own adventures illustrated with photos of frozen waterfalls and pathways covered in knee-deep snow. Our route all mapped out, there would be five hours of walking, two boats trips, and a promise that we’d see all the highlights the park had to offer. We started at the upper lakes taking a short boat trip across the clear water where we would start our exploration of the park.

With sixteen lakes in total all fed through a series of impressive waterfalls, you’re never far from a kodak moment. Sun-bleached, wooden pathways skirt the edges of the lakes, and climb up and over the tumbling waterfalls. The paths lead through thick green forest on to wide open lakes. Fast rushing water is visible through gaps in the planks. You skirt close to the rock face, the incredibly clear waters just a couple of feet to the side of you. As you descend to the lower lakes, there is a visible shift. The upper lakes have an alpine feel, think fir trees and pines. The lower lakes somehow feel rougher, damper, water rushes and bubbles over smaller, rockier falls, and the vegetation is greener, more Mediterranean.

We made our way around the lakes enjoying the falls and lakes, saving Veliki Slap, the park’s highest waterfall at 78m high, for last. After taking in the sheer magnitude of the falls, we headed back up the zigzagging path towards where our minibus was waiting. Although tired from walking in the heat, we didn’t want to leave, so happily just before we had to make our way to the minibus and the three hour journey back to Split, we were treated to the most spectacular view across the lower lakes.

Plitvice Lakes National Park is such an incredibly beautiful place so it’s no surprise they’re one of the most popular tourist attractions in Croatia, but don’t let that put you off. Yes it’s busy, but avoid peak season and the beauty of the park far outweighs the bustling, selfie-snapping tourists.

A blast of heat when the plane doors opened was exactly what was needed after a cold and wet few weeks in England. Sea on one side of the tarmac, mountains the other; it was all blue skies, and earthy palettes. We rushed through arrivals, desperate to hop on the bus and get to the city. Surrounded by palms and cleverly thought out landscaping, the airport was completely obscured from view as we pulled out and made our way to Split. We passed small farms, veggie plots, olive trees and vineyards with the odd house dotted in between. We spent the forty minute coach trip cooing over the houses and trying to guess what fruit or vegetable might be growing in the next plot – my money’s on the olives!

As we got closer to the city the differences were stark. The sparsely populated landscape gave way to a higher saturation of traditional abodes and a number of high-rises and a shopping mall. This wasn’t quite what we had in mind when we’d decided on Split, but happily the city itself felt much more traditional in its charm, leaving modernity on the outskirts.

It’s a short, waterfront walk from the bus station to the old part of the city; the Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO world heritage site and our home for the next four days.

We stayed in a little Air BnB within the palace walls, a minute walk from Peristil Square. An alleyway of wooden struts painted with flowers led off a small, courtyard filled with plants and a couple of cats, and washing strung up between buildings drying overhead. A green wooden door with an iron grate that opened onto a hall of peeling paint and a wonky staircase all added to the charm of our second floor studio. The apartment itself was light, bright and surprisingly quiet considering its incredible central location.

We spent a lot of time exploring the old city. Following narrow, winding alleyways, discovering mosaics, pretty pastel coloured buildings with green shutters, and outdoor bars on steps. Hours were spent walking up and down the Riva, a palm lined promenade, with white benches (some with solar panelled charge points) and brightly coloured flowers, only stopping for ice cream and pastries!

Outside of the city walls you’ll find a rich marine harbour jostling with boats all ready to jet off to one of the islands you can see so clearly from the mainland. A walk revealed a few of Split’s beaches, clear waters lapping at stoney shores. As inviting as they looked, we decided to save the beaches for when we headed to Šolta. Instead, we decided to spend the afternoon climbing Marjan Hill.

Marjan Hill

We walked along the Riva and cut up between houses built onto the rocks and started towards a broad set of white steps to begin the walk up Marjan.

We passed a beautiful looking restaurant surrounded by plants, and arrived at what we thought was the top. A plateau above the tree level, all the red roofs of the city stretching into the distance.

As we turned our backs on the view we noticed another path leading up through more pine trees. Following the pine scented pathways we realised what we thought was the top was actually not even half way. As we continued to climb the path we found a little church, and another path winding up through the trees.

Continuing on up the steps through the trees and succulents, we discovered an amphitheatre, a kids’ play park, and an art sculpture. It was such a beautiful place to explore, and clearly somewhere at the heart of the Split community.

The long walk up Marjan Hill was totally worth it. The Croatian flag celebrates your arrival at the summit and the whole of Split is visible below you. Boats and ferries appear in slow motion with their white wake behind them, mountains rise up like a painted Hollywood backdrop with small white clouds catching along the ridge, and the islands seem to float on the horizon.

We headed back into the city for a much needed drink and ice cream, and explore the narrow cobbled alleys further.

Split, thanks for having us. I can’t wait to come back and explore more.

]]>https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/08/08/split-the-start-of-a-croatian-adventure/feed/2Processed with VSCO with g3 presetlaurapeta88IMG_8741.JPGProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetIMG_8532.JPGProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetProcessed with VSCO with g3 presetUncovering Coverackhttps://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/07/28/uncovering-coverack/
https://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/2016/07/28/uncovering-coverack/#respondThu, 28 Jul 2016 06:37:20 +0000http://wayfaringstranger.co.uk/?p=182Down on the Lizard peninsula you’ll find Coverack, a small fishing village that has managed to withstand the touch of time. It is without a doubt one of the most charming villages in Cornwall, and one I’m ashamed to admit that I’ve only visited a handful of times.

Walking down the hill that leads to the village, the sea is the first thing that greets you. The large expanse of sparkling water is certainly inviting. Although mostly rocky, the little beach has areas of light sand. The clear sea and little rocky outcrops are the perfect place for snorkelling and rock pooling. Just off the coast are The Manacles, a large granite reef that has claimed many ship, and is a well known Cornish dive site, home to wrecks and a rich marine wildlife.

Thatched cottages line the road from the beach to the harbour. Bright pink flowers and leafy green plants stand bold against the whitewashed walls. The small harbour peeks out from behind the buildings as you make your way down the road.

Grabbing take away chips from The Lifeboat House, a little restaurant in a converted lifeboat station, we sat on the harbour wall, taking in the sun and watching the local children jumping into the harbour and swimming amongst the brightly coloured boats.

The South West Coast Path incorporates the village on it’s journey around Cornwall. From Coverack you can join the path heading towards the Helford or you can continue down to the Lizard. I’ll save the the walks for another day, but this little village is definitely the perfect start or end to any coast path stroll.

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