Jayrob,
Please remove the cover from the other side. You will see a metal piece covering the assembly. Remove that and then take a close up picture of the assembly. I will be able to tell you where the diode is but you will probably see them...especially the infrared one.

Jayrob,
Please remove the cover from the other side. You will see a metal piece covering the assembly. Remove that and then take a close up picture of the assembly. I will be able to tell you where the diode is but you will probably see them...especially the infrared one.

Ok...here's the picture of the other side with the metal plate removed...
Jay

I took the one at the bottom of the picture out and it looks just like a Senkat diode. I am guessing that this in not the one that I am after...

I don't save anything else from the drive....I trash everything except the diode. Others use the motors to make for laser shows and there are some optics...I think a prism and beam splitter.

I am going to get right to work and build a DDL driver before I test it. I want to use an adjustable driver for this baby...My plan is to use the adj. current driver for the LD and maybe one of the AMC7135 drivers for the peltier. Will 3 AA batts. work for this idea? Or, should I re-think the driver for the LD?
Jay

For DDL's driver you will need at least 6 batteries unless you are using lithiums. With lithiums you could use 3 CR123's or 2 RCR123's for example.

You do not want to put more than 5 volts into the AMC7135. 3 Nimh batteries, or 1 li-ion battery are ideal for use with the 7135.

I sure hope that diode lases and works properly. This will be an excellent guide for others who want to harvest an open can from the 112D

Hey Gazoo, sorry for all the questions...I'm getting pretty excited about this open can/TEC project. I really want to be able to adjust the current to the LD so I probably will go with DDL's driver. Now for the peltier, what is your suggestion? I will be using 2 3.0 or 3.6 lithum batts for the LD. Maybe a single lithum for the peltier? That probably means 2 switches. Unless maybe I'll have to build a second driver... I want complete control over the LD and the peltier as well...What do you think?
Thanks,
Jay

If you want complete control over the peltier then your best bet is to build another DDL circuit. And you will be able to run both of them off the same power supply. It really is the best way to go if you plan on pushing the LD.

The AMC7135's will still come in handy for another project...I am sure.. BTW did you get some arctic silver adhesive to mount the cube to the peltier?

P.S. Don't feel like you have to apologize for the questions...I am enjoying this actually. ;D

If you want complete control over the peltier then your best bet is to build another DDL circuit. And you will be able to run both of them off the same power supply. It really is the best way to go if you plan on pushing the LD.

The AMC7135's will still come in handy for another project...I am sure.. BTW did you get some arctic silver adhesive to mount the cube to the peltier?

P.S. Don't feel like you have to apologize for the questions...I am enjoying this actually. ;D

This is good stuff! (yes I have the arctic silver adhesive) Ok, I like the idea of building a second driver for the peltier so I can fine tune both the LD, as well as the cooling. So, I know you have experience with this peltier and would like your opinion on how to build a driver that will run off of the 2 lithium batteries which will supply the correct voltage? I only know how to build DDL's circuit. I have built it using a 2 ohm resistor with a 10 ohm pot which gives a range of 104mA to 625mA. This is what I will make for the LD...
Jay

Build the circuit for the peltier exactly like you are for the LD. You should never need to run more than a half amp on the peltier to maintain cooling.

There are a couple of things to consider:

The 2 ohm resistors will limit current to ~625ma's. If you have the pots for both circuits turned to zero resistance, then you would be drawing a total of 1.250 amps. Are your li-ions capable of handling that much current?

The other point is you will need resistors and pots that are capable of handling 1 watt. I think we went over this before. But to calculate the wattage of the resistors and pots needed, we take the sense voltage of the LM317 and multiply it times the current.

You do not want to put more than 5 volts into the AMC7135. 3 Nimh batteries, or 1 li-ion battery are ideal for use with the 7135.

That's right! I can just use another DDL driver for the Peltier right? I some how got the 'less than 5 volts' in my head but you were talking about the AMC7135! So, now I have my plan...Two DDL drivers!
* By the way, I just made the first driver and tested the open can dioed at 254mA and it works great! I am looking forward to getting everything all hooked up so I can start experimenting with the adjustments of the LD current vs the peltier current...
Jay

Build the circuit for the peltier exactly like you are for the LD. You should never need to run more than a half amp on the peltier to maintain cooling.

There are a couple of things to consider:

The 2 ohm resistors will limit current to ~625ma's. If you have the pots for both circuits turned to zero resistance, then you would be drawing a total of 1.250 amps. Are your li-ions capable of handling that much current?

The other point is you will need resistors and pots that are capable of handling 1 watt. I think we went over this before. But to calculate the wattage of the resistors and pots needed, we take the sense voltage of the LM317 and multiply it times the current.

1.25 X .625 = .78125 watts.

Hmmm....What do you think Gazoo? Maybe 4 lithiums...one pair for each driver? And about the current...I know I won't need more than 625mA for the LD ( I probably won't want to go over 400mA)...but what about the peltier? In your experience, should I build its driver so that it can be adjusted for more current than 625mA?
Jay

Edit: Oh...you just said never more than 500mA! Ok...so then, say a maximum of 500mA to the peltier and a maximum of 450mA to the LD. With those parameters, would two 3 volt lithiums be enough? Or, will I need two for each driver?
Thanks,
Jay