I can get my 1M almost to 260F, if I do multiple pulls to 155. Stock for now.

Thanks. Another thing I noticed as I was reading through the thread. People with oil coolers are seeing lower oil temps when driving around town than their counterparts with no oil coolers. I thought the oil cooler equipped cars have a thermostat that kicks in at 250F which means cooling wise <250F cars with and without oil cooler should be similar.
Am I missing something?

3. Our water pump has several modes for the ecu to choose from. The ecu can even shut it off completely for faster warm up, or leave it running even when you shut off your engine. The one in the N54 (400watts-9,000 Liters/hour) is more powerful than the one in the N52 (200watts-7,000 Liters/hour), and the one in the 335IS/N55/1M (???watts) should be also a tad bit stronger than my stock one.

4. Our vehicles have an electronically controlled wax thermostat. It has a 3 plate design. Unlike regular wax thermostats, which open when the engine coolant gets warm enough, the ecu can electronically melt the wax, to open up the thermostat much sooner. Wahler electronic wax thermostats can be set to operate the engine at anywhere from 0 to 120C. The engine usually can stay in a range that is +/- 12-15C from whatever the set point is. The brochure mentions that you can get a 2% increase in fuel efficiency from running the engine at 100-110C. Again these are cylinder head temps.

Yes, with the water pump running too. I believe the oil pump also runs continuously with this setting, but I'm not 100% on that.
Works amazingly. I can see the needle moving once it starts working, provided I'm not thrashing the car.

Would be nice to have this feature with the Procede. On the racetrack this would be very helpful during the cool-down lap after the session.

I can get my 1M almost to 260F, if I do multiple pulls to 155. Stock for now.

One has to realize that even the heavy duty motor in the PPK V.2 and the 1M fan will not make much if any difference over 30 mph. Dynamometer pulls with the hood raised have little to do with street or track driving with the hood closed at speed and air flowing through the engine compartment as it is designed.

If heat is a problem, one needs to replace the radiator first with a higher capacity one, then address the oil cooler if necessary. Thermostat on OC is set to about 221° F so condensation is boiled off before it is opened. Many aftermarket OC make the mistake of running no thermostats or ones that open at less then 212° F. Not a good idea long term at all.

In the short term, running 35%/65% coolant to distilled water ratio and Redline Water Wetter well help somewhat in heat transfer. Coolant can even be reduced to 10% -15% range in warmer climatesfor the spring - summer - fall for greater heat transfer, but not below that ratio.

If heat is a problem, one needs to replace the radiator first with a higher capacity one, then address the oil cooler if necessary. Thermostat on OC is set to about 221° F so condensation is boiled off before it is opened. Many aftermarket OC make the mistake of running no thermostats or ones that open at less then 212° F. Not a good idea long term at all.

+1 I wouldn't delete the thermostat, especially if you live in colder climates.

I hope PWR will provide an aluminium radiator which fits on 6AT cars. There are just not many other options around to improve water cooling. I've installed the powerkit radiator, but I still see 200-220 water temps during normal driving. This does not leave much safety margin when tracking in hot outside temperatures, where I noticed powercutoffs due to high water temps last summer.

One has to realize that even the heavy duty motor in the PPK V.2 and the 1M fan will not make much if any difference over 30 mph. Dynamometer pulls with the hood raised have little to do with street or track driving with the hood closed at speed and air flowing through the engine compartment as it is designed.

If heat is a problem, one needs to replace the radiator first with a higher capacity one, then address the oil cooler if necessary. Thermostat on OC is set to about 221° F so condensation is boiled off before it is opened. Many aftermarket OC make the mistake of running no thermostats or ones that open at less then 212° F. Not a good idea long term at all.

There were all highway runs in 80F weather. And I was mistaken, I can't get it past about 245F.

But yeah, no real cooling issues yet. Just high IAT's. I can flog the crap out of it and stay out of limp mode, thanks BMW!

i am road racing the car on 3/10-3/11 (with yandyr) at Homestead's inner track. you can look at my garage if you'd like but related to the thread i have a stett oil cooler and asr turbos. so stronger oil cooling and the water does not flow to the turbos (asr's original design). i have a BMW PSW which will give me oil and water temp. i will monitor it and let you guys know the max temps and if any limps/problems arise.

Conclusion. My car: a 2007 335I always ran hot. The normal operating temp on the highway and city was 245F. This seems to corresponds to a cylinder head temp of 108C (+20F for pan or guage temp), or the ecu's eco mode, which the car was obviously in 99% of the time. I got great gas mileage, but suffered at the track, even with two oil coolers, diluted coolant + water wetter, and having my heater on the whole time.

Recently after 90K miles, my water pump failed, completely. My engine oil temps skyrocketed, and my coolant got burnt. My mechanic ordered and installed a new water pump, and thermostat. It's been 4 months now, and my average oil temp is 210F. My vehicle also takes a lot longer to warm up. Turns out my Indy shop ordered the 1M/N55/335IS water pump, together with a non-oem whaler thermostat.

I haven't been to the track yet, as I will be there in May, so I haven't tested my vehicle at the track so please take this all with a grain of salt until then. However, so far, I have two theories about why my oil temps are now dramatically lower.

1. My old thermostat was just bad, and this new one is just working better. or

2. The new, stronger water pump, together with the lower temp engine thermostat is what is causing the lower temps. The ecu detected the lower temp setting, and thus, the much, much sooner opening thermostat has forced the creation of new maps for the ecu to target.

Keep in mind that this solution, if it pans out, is very expensive, as you are looking at the very least a $1200 labor cost, not including parts. I ordered my parts here (thermostat and pump, are the more expensive ones):

use Meth for intake cooling and run distilled water, no glycol/antifreeze plus something like redline waterwetter for waterpump lube and anti corrosion will aid the radiator colling quite a bit vs the oem coolant mix. Often overlooked but if you're in an area that never freezes, it's worth doing. Even in colder areas, you just need to swap the mix out for the cold months which isn't a ton of work.