The sound of choppers and shell fire set off Mark McNairy's Spring 2015 show, where the designer once again waged war on ordinary menswear. "It started with Vietnam and Woodstock," he said after the show, which featured a mix of camo and tie-dye on the runway. The collection never went as far as to be directly militaristic or hippie-dippy; that's not his style. McNairy prefers to focus his creative efforts on the intersection of new-wave streetwear and traditional menswear—a street crossing where, if it were a real place, McNairy would be mayor.

McNairy's MO is to take two ordinary things and combine them to make something unusual—beginning with the first model to walk down the runway, the rapper Travis Scott, who hop-skipped his way up and down, wearing diamond-studded gold grills on his teeth. Rappers aren't so rare at fashion shows these days, but you don't often see them on the catwalk. McNairy makes a point of casting one in every show. On the rest of the models, the collection featured the unusual garment combos you'd expect from McNairy—sleeveless desert camo varsity jacket, tie-dye shorts suit, plaid coach's jacket, large polka dots printed on camo, multicolored snap-up shirt jacket. Continuing the trend we've seen elsewhere at this season's men's shows, McNairy's offering was especially relaxed. "The theme is R & R," he said. Even the suits were cut loose, boxy, with casual rolled pant cuffs or shorts. Many of the female models (and some of the males) wore baggy, rolled-up drawstring pants in various colors and prints—cool enough to be must-haves for both sexes next spring.