P-XC( off a Anthem 29'r 1) ,converted to tubeless about an hour ago with Stans tape and a valve. Wasn't the easiest to bead up but got it done with a compressor(Maxxis tires).

Good to know. Originally, these were supposed to be tubeless compatible in some way or another, but I have not heard much reported about how they actually work.

One of the things I do when inflating tires on my own Flow rims, is that if they don't inflate right away (they almost never do) is to put my thumbs into the center of the tread and then use the my fingers on each sidewall to pull up and out as I press down with my thumbs. I do that several times (every three or four inches) around the circumference of the wheel and then put the air to it again. That pulls the beads toward the outsides of the rim and onto the 'shoulders' of the spoke bed, and usually does the trick right away.

Good to know. Originally, these were supposed to be tubeless compatible in some way or another, but I have not heard much reported about how they actually work.

One of the things I do when inflating tires on my own Flow rims, is that if they don't inflate right away (they almost never do) is to put my thumbs into the center of the tread and then use the my fingers on each sidewall to pull up and out as I press down with my thumbs. I do that several times (every three or four inches) around the circumference of the wheel and then put the air to it again. That pulls the beads toward the outsides of the rim and onto the 'shoulders' of the spoke bed, and usually does the trick right away.

If it didn't, I would probably put on another round or two of tape and go after it again.

Now that I've have some sleep..
I'd recommend using a hair dryer or heat gun on low to work the tape into the rim, the center channel is fairly "deep" and the tape needed to be worked down if you want it to be "pretty".
The front tire went on just fine; newer Ignitor with the "new sidewall", the rear was the stock tire (Anthem 29r1) Crossmark, it is not labeled as a UST/lust....so it put up the most fight.
Agree on the "air" trick. I took it to the next level. I have a non OSHA( no line restriction) squeeze handled "air blower", with the valve core removed the " slightly modded" tip fits into the valve....

Now that I've have some sleep..
I'd recommend using a hair dryer or heat gun on low to work the tape into the rim, the center channel is fairly "deep" and the tape needed to be worked down if you want it to be "pretty".

If you're using the yellow tape from Stans, it works best if you really pull hard on it as you go around the rim and it has always gone down all the way into the spoke bed. Don't be shy with it, it's pretty strong stuff. It's also good practice to mount up a tire with a tube in it and leave it overnight.

Thru axle to 9mm conversion on P-XC2

a friend of mine has the P-XC2 wheels that are set to come off her 2011 Giant Anthem X1 W.

She is looking to sell them to a friend but would like to know if the front wheel has a compatible 15mm to 9mm plug similar to what Mavic sells for there conversions? Also what do you all think would be a fare price for the set? wheels only no cassette.

S-XC2 profile inner bead width is also 19mm with a pinned joint. The rim weights are: 460g (26") and 520g (29"), also give or take 10g. A slightly shorter profile is not nearly as radially stiff which does allow for slightly greater vertical compliance.

Have done the electrical tape with valve stem - took a while to air upů
Also just tried the 29er Bontranger symmetrical rim strip with valve made for tubeless use - very happy with this arrangement as: if there is a flat - take out valve - use existing as rim strip and add tube/tyre - off we go! Rim strip is a sort of semi hard plastic that fits right across rim.

Have done the electrical tape with valve stem - took a while to air upů
Also just tried the 29er Bontranger symmetrical rim strip with valve made for tubeless use - very happy with this arrangement as: if there is a flat - take out valve - use existing as rim strip and add tube/tyre - off we go! Rim strip is a sort of semi hard plastic that fits right across rim.

I have used these in the past with little fuss. I might just order these instead. Still cheaper than a stan's strip.

I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.

I think the wheels are the biggest difference between the 2010 and 2011 XTC 29er, since the 2011 bike feels like a rocket. I didn't ride the 2010, but some said it felt sluggish until the replace the wheels. I'm actually going to hang on to these P-XC2 wheels and see how they hold up.

I haven't found a weight for the rear cassette, but it's a 11-36T unit, so I think it makes up the biggest difference between the front and rear weights (assuming rear hub is a normal amount heavier than the front hub). Depending on how the shake-down rides go, I might go to a lighter and more conventional 11-34 or 11-32 cassette.

I think the wheels are the biggest difference between the 2010 and 2011 XTC 29er, since the 2011 bike feels like a rocket. I didn't ride the 2010, but some said it felt sluggish until the replace the wheels. I'm actually going to hang on to these P-XC2 wheels and see how they hold up.

OK, I think we are just looking at this from different points of veiw... My curiousity with the weight of the wheels without cassette and discs ect, was so that I could compare the weight to the published weights of other options. I ended up swapping out the standard QR hub on my AMERICAN CLASSIC wheels for a 15mm through axle hub so I could trim around 700 grams of rotating weight as well as replacing the tubes with Maxxis Flyweight for another 180 gram saving.