Uluru rising

The spiritual heart of Australia is undergoing a
transformation for travellers and local communities, writes Helen
Anderson, with regional tourism celebrating its
heritage.

Little has changed at Uluru in 30,000 years, geologically
speaking. Apart from water erosion deepening the fissures that
score the flanks of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, the monumental splendour
of the rust-red rocks and their intense colours at sunrise and
sunset appear timeless.

Just beyond the national park, however, at Voyages Ayers Rock
Resort and Longitude 131, the five-star tented camp, the pace of
change in the past four years has been furious. "The destination
has undergone a complete rejuvenation," says Karena Noble, the
resort's public relations director. "Every aspect of the guest
experience has been examined and improved with the aim of creating
a centre of excellence in indigenous tourism in the spiritual heart
of Australia."

Not since the landmark agreement of 1985 - in which the Australian
Government handed Uluru back to its traditional owners, the Anangu,
who in turn leased and now jointly administer it with the National
Parks and Wildlife Service - has there been such substantial
change.

There were two indigenous employees at the Red Centre resort when
it was bought in October 2010 by the Indigenous Land Council, with
a mission to turn the former Voyages Hotels & Resorts complex
into a showcase of indigenous employment and tourism. Managed by a
subsidiary, Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia, the resort's five
accommodation sites, airport and tour operations at Yulara, near
Uluru, now has a national indigenous training academy, 252
indigenous employees and plans to boost that number to half its
workforce of about 750 by 2018.

Travellers had long complained there were few ways to learn about
the culture of the region's traditional owners. In response, says
Noble, a suite of free daily experiences designed to help guests
engage with indigenous culture - from traditional dance and
interactive didgeridoo performances to guided botanical walks and
storytelling sessions - has proved popular.

The new owners spent $30 million refurbishing Sails in the Desert,
the resort's top-end hotel, and are progressively upgrading the
other four accommodation options. The range of guest activities has
been boosted to about 65 pursuits, including skydiving, cycling
around the rock and a premium dining-under-the-stars experience for
no more than 20 people at a time.

The changes at Longitude 131 have been even more swift. Baillie
Lodges, owned by James and Hayley Baillie, took on a 30-year
operating lease in November 2013 and immediately embarked on the $2
million first stage of a three-year plan. Managing director James
describes it as "immediate renewal". The most obvious changes are
the appearance of works by local indigenous artists, commissioned
by Hayley in tandem with art centres in the Anangu Pitjantjatjara
Yankunytjatjara lands. "A core part of our vision is the
celebration of indigenous heritage and culture," says James, who
sees this as complementing the existing focus in guest tents and
lounge areas on the achievements of white explorers; each of the
tents is named after a white pioneer and features their journals
and photographs. Like the art, all the enhancements are
commissioned for the lodge, from ceramics by Malcolm Greenwood and
uniforms by RM Williams to the group's customised "Baillie beds"
and bespoke furniture by Melbourne designers Pierre and Charlotte
Julian, and Arthur G. The look is lighter: less heritage, more
contemporary.

The same could be said for the menus under chef Seona Moss, which
are both light and satisfying after a day of touring. Moss's light
touch is best seen in dishes such as bark-wrapped Murray River cod,
choko and pickled cabbage, and in the house salad, which, with its
lively mix including fennel, heirloom tomatoes and avocado, is a
fine example of the oft-neglected standard. Moss, who trained at
E'cco in Brisbane and has done stints at Vue de Monde and Noma, has
access to premium Australian produce - raw goat-milk emme cheese
from Hindmarsh Valley Dairy, Daintree chocolate, the aforementioned
sustainably harvested Murray River cod - and seasonal bush food,
including quandongs and muntries during my visit.

More extensive work on Longitude will start this year. With
architect Max Pritchard, the Baillies are planning two new
two-bedroom tented pavilions, each with a pool; a spa; a new
entrance to the Dune House, the communal space; and rock-facing
balconies added to the existing tents to house daybeds, outdoor
fireplaces and luxury swags for a night under the stars. The
dunetop behind Longitude, with its priceless view, will feature a
heated infinity pool, decks and terraces with outdoor dining
nooks.

With a private helipad and new fleet of vehicles, the range of
guest activities at Longitude has been broadened and
"rechoreographed" to be more flexibile: sunset cocktails at
secluded spots around Uluru; private guided walks in neighbouring
Kata Tjuta; and helicopter expeditions to Cave Hill and Mount
Conner, a lesser-known but spectacular monolith 100 kilometres east
of Uluru.

Some of the most memorable experiences are the simplest. James
loves running at sunrise around the base of the rock. "It's a
10-kilometre circuit - all flat, quiet, a little eerie and very,
very special."

Before I fall asleep one night I flick a bedside switch to raise
the shades on the wall of windows in my tent.

I wake as the horizon appears and lie propped up for an
unforgettable hour, as the sun rises over Uluru.

STAY
Luxury air-conditioned tents at Longitude 131, managed by Baillie Lodges,
cost from $1,100 per person per night, twin share, including all
dining, open bar, excursions and transfers to Ayers Rock airport.
Packages for three nights or more cost from $2970 per person. (02)
9918 4355

Voyages Ayers Rock Resort has five
accommodation options, from Sails in the Desert hotel to a
campground. A three-night stay at Sails costs from $322 per night,
including breakfast. The premium Tali Wiru dunetop dining
experience costs from $325 per person and runs daily 1 April-15
October 2015. 1300 134 044

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