I think thats only true if it's a canon TC. Will it save say a Canon lens and Kenko TC combo?

Depends on the model and firmware (dot color) of the Kenko TC. Some don't report their existence at all, so no separate AFMA. Some that report their existence cause certain Canon camera models (e.g. the 5DIII) to lock up if AMFA is enabled, requiring pulling the battery to reset the camera).

I found the program really easy to use - the only issue for me was it needs a bit of PC POWER to run and it wouldn't run on my little notebook so I had to do all the calibration from my main PC - this was a bit of a pain for me due to the minimum recommended distance for calibrating the far end of my 200mm lens.I had to use a USB lead extender and place the target on the wall at the far end of my hallway to get the distance.

The calibration results I got were as follows:

50mm F1.4 - +124-70mm f2.8L II - W:+1 T:+170-200 f2.8L II - W:+4 T+1

Surprised at the 70-200 with the +4 at the wide end but the program was easy to use and I am now shooting with these recommended values. (My 24-70 and 70-200 lenses are brand new.)

I went for the Plus version as (hopefully) 5D3 users will get fully automatic calibration soon, although it's not a real pain now as all you have to do is change the AF Microadjustment (ALL) value when prompted buy the software.

AFMA was always something I avoided doing as the manual method was too hit and miss for me, at least now I can calibrate my lenses on a year to year basis.

Do I notice the differerence after calibration - yes - shots look slightly sharper but I am not sure even a +4 AFMA will produce a very noticable difference on the wide end of my 70-200mmm.

IMO - if you want to calibrate and want to do it easily or have never done it before, FoCal is a good way to go.

one additional question which has something in parallel with AFMA.When do you say a picture is 100% sharp., at 100% crop, 300%? What is your expectation? Background, just got my new 5d mark iii, and also thinking about afma.. at 300% crop I can see that the pictures seem not being sharp, at 100% they do, so now, afma or not ?

one additional question which has something in parallel with AFMA.When do you say a picture is 100% sharp., at 100% crop, 300%? What is your expectation? Background, just got my new 5d mark iii, and also thinking about afma.. at 300% crop I can see that the pictures seem not being sharp, at 100% they do, so now, afma or not ?

No image will be sharp at 300%. Are you kidding? Look at the image about 50-100%. I prefer 50% when I'm doing PP as it's about as big as it will ever be viewed in real life. 100% for AFMA purposes using Lightrooms compare mode.

one additional question which has something in parallel with AFMA.When do you say a picture is 100% sharp., at 100% crop, 300%? What is your expectation? Background, just got my new 5d mark iii, and also thinking about afma.. at 300% crop I can see that the pictures seem not being sharp, at 100% they do, so now, afma or not ?

No image will be sharp at 300%. Are you kidding? Look at the image about 50-100%. I prefer 50% when I'm doing PP as it's about as big as it will ever be viewed in real life. 100% for AFMA purposes using Lightrooms compare mode.

Glad everything worked out for you. I just recently purchased the Lens Align II, which feels like it is built out of recycled cardboard, and sent it back back and purchased FoCal. FoCal works awesome, even in the semi-auto mode with the 5D3. I too purchased the plus version. It's a Godsend for my 7D too, making the whole process super easy.

Many of my lenses showed no visible difference in real world use, like my 24-70LII, but other lenses like my 85mm 1.8 and Sigma 35mm 1.4 were clearly sharper. I think they both used +7 or +8. FoCal is one of the best investments I've made.

I think a lot of photographers get obsessed by their image sharpness, investing in expensive camera bodies and high end L lenses only to then look at shots at 100%+ and "see" softness.

A lack of sharpness can be down to many other factors other than AFMA - shutter speed, subject movement, ISO noise, out of focus, etc. can all impact on image sharpness.

I would say when I get an unsharp image it's usually down to my fault for not getting everything correct when I am shooting. My focusing is off or my shutter speed hasn't been fast enough to freeze any movement.

I would expect on a expensive body like the 5D3 that you should be able to put virtually any L glass onto it and get sharp results with no AFMA - unless the body or lens is faulty.

It was a worthwhile excercise for me to buy FoCal and calibrate my lenses as it has told me that my lenses are "Okay" quality wise as they only required slight AFMA and I now have an easy method for re-calibrating anc checking in the future.

FoCal does make it easy, especially as I have never done any AFMA before and I managed to calibrate all my lenses in just over an hour at first attempt.