Rich culture, delicious food and stories from Afghanistan

10/10/2013

TEA AND HOSPITALITY IN AFGHANISTAN

Helen Saberi

By guest blogger: Helen Saberi

As the small
aeroplane from Peshawar came into land bumpily at Kabul airport on 4 March 1971
little did I know that I was to marry an Afghan and spend the next nine years
happily living in Afghanistan. My first
impressions from the air were of the snow-capped mountains circling what seemed
like a huge dust bowl. However, after
these first rather daunting impressions I grew to love Afghanistan – its stark
and stunning scenery, the brilliant blue skies, snow-clad mountains, lush green
valleys, the colourful and bustling bazaars; but most of all I loved it for the
wonderful hospitable people.

Tea for Two from Canon Photoblog

Hospitality and tea play a very
important part in the lives of the Afghan people. Tea is drunk copiously throughout the
day. The warmth and generosity of Afghan
hospitality can be almost overwhelming at times. During the time I lived in Afghanistan I was
lucky enough to travel around the country visiting places and towns such as
Herat, Mazar-e-Sharif, Kunduz, Bamian, Bandimeer, Kandahar, Jalalabad and many
other places. I was also fortunate
enough to be a guest in many households. A guest is always made to feel welcome
and special. He or she will be invited to sit in the place of honour at the
head of the room and made comfortable on colourful cushions called tushak with a pillow (bolesht) placed behind to lean back on
before being offered tea.

Tea (chai)
will be served. It may be green tea or black.
Meanwhile the host’s family will be preparing the best possible food. The tea is sometimes served in small glasses
called istakhan or small porcelain
handle-less bowls, similar to the Chinese tea bowl, called piala.

Afghan police trainees take a tea break

Western style cups
may be used, especially in the cities. The first cup of tea is usually served
with an enormous amount of sugar – the more sugar, the more honour. Another
Afghan custom is to have the first cup of tea sweet, chai shireen, followed by another cup without sugar, called chai talkh. Many people dip sugar lumps or cubes, called qand, in their tea which they then hold
in their mouths as they sip the tea. Sometimes,
especially if it is winter, ghur,
which is a kind of lump sugar made from sugar cane, is served with tea because
of its warming properties. Chai is often flavoured with green or
white cardamom – the pod is opened and the seeds crushed and sprinkled over the
tea. Sometimes a whole pod is lightly crushed
and put into the teapot before boiling water is poured over.

Noqul, sugar covered almonds with a hint of cardamom

Your glass or cup is constantly
refilled by your host. You must remember
to turn your glass or cup over when you have had enough otherwise the refilling
will continue! Sometimes tea is served in individual teapots allowing the guest
to pour out as much or as little tea he needs or requires. Very often you will be provided with a small
bowl for the dregs.

Sweets called shirnee often accompany the tea, especially for guests. These can be ‘chocolate’ (not what we know as
chocolate but actually locally-made toffees).
Noql are particularly popular.
These are almonds, pistachios or chickpeas coated in sugar. Noql-e-badomi
(sugared almonds) are the most popular but my favourite were the noql-e-nakhod (with chickpeas) which
were tasty and very moreish.

Humaira in a Kabul pastry shop

In the afternoon biscuits (kulcha) may also be served with tea. Although cakes, biscuits and desserts are a
luxury in Afghanistan they are often served to guests. I remember very well when unexpected guests
arrived in the afternoon we would send a young member of the family or the
servant to go and buy biscuits from the bazaar.

Kabul pastry and sweet shop

Many different types were available.
My favourite ones were ab-e-dandon
which means ‘melt in the mouth’ and they really did! If it was Nauroz (the Afghan New Year) then kulcha-e-Naurozee (also known as kulcha-e-birinji – rice biscuits) were
popular. If one knew guests were coming
biscuits or pastries might be made at home. For special occasions delicious light and
crispy goash-e-feel (literally
‘elephant’s ear’) pastries might be made.

I have vivid
memories of the time I visited my husband’s relatives in Kunduz and being shown
how to make fritter-like biscuits called kulcha-e-panjerei
(meaning ‘window biscuits’) by my husband’s cousin Mahgul. There were of course other sweetmeats for us
to enjoy but this has remained in my memory for all these years.

I remember the batter being made, the
wok-like pan containing oil being heated up over a fire and the fritter iron being
used. I remember the sweet crispness of
the biscuits. Kulcha-e-panjerei are light and delicate and best eaten when they have
cooled down but still fresh and crisp dusted with a little icing sugar just as
I ate them in Kunduz many years ago. Here is the recipe.

Kulcha-e-Panjerei

You will need a fritter iron like the one shown in the drawing below,
although the patterns do vary considerably.
I have one in the shape of a butterfly and one in the shape of a flower.

2 medium eggs

1 tsp sugar

¼ tsp salt

4 oz (110 g) plain flour

1 cup (225 ml) milk

2 tsp melted butter

oil for frying

icing sugar for dusting

Beat the eggs in a bowl until well blended. Add and mix in well the sugar and salt then
gradually stir in the flour alternately with the milk and the melted
butter. Beat well.

Heat about 4” (10 cm) oil in a deep pan or fryer to
200o C (400o F).
Immerse the fritter iron in the hot oil to season. Then dip it in the batter, making sure the
batter does not cover the top of the iron.
Immerse quickly in the hot oil for about 20 to 30 seconds, until the
bubbles disappear and the biscuit is golden brown. Remove the fritter carefully from the iron,
if necessary with a fork, and drain.
Repeat until all the batter is used up.
When cool, dust with icing sugar.
These are best served immediately and do not store well in a tin.

*Next week, Helen's post will continue with the recipe for Qaymaq Chai. A special milk tea made for celebrations or hosting guests.

Afghan Hospitality is world renowned . Bookmark and Share
Afghans are very friendly and hospitable and there are several factor leading to this. One, it is obligatory by Islam to treat others as you want them treating you. Its a matter of roughhouses to help others in need even if you are not well off, but in better condition than those who needs help.

Sharing a meal or a cup of tea, solidifies a relationship, a friendship between strangers. Even sharing water with your enemy will turn that foe into friend. Thus Sharing is a iatrical part of Hospitality in Afghanistan.

The second reason for their hospitality is the cultural code. The mehman nawazi, melmastia, is part of the code of pashunwali. The rules which all afghans live by. A guest is a gift from God, they are feed cloth and treated with respect so long as they are your guests. The guest are not to be bothered, their hands are washed before meals, their plates are always full, even if they are full and cannot eat any more, it will be kept full. Your bed is ready and at night and fully made after you awake.

Afghan Proverb: "Honor the guest, O son. Even though he is an infidel, open the door."

Hello Paykai Jan- Thank you for your comment about the differences of Phyllis Chesler's Afghanistan experience compared to Helen Saberi's. It is clear each of these women had personal experiences dictated by cultural development, political climate and of course who they married. Although Phyllis's short time in Afghanistan does not make her an expert on Afghan culture, people and religion, it is hard to deny her the right to share her personal experiences.

I admire your passion for Afghan people and your drive to shed a better light on the Afghanistan. My goal of writing this blog is to share the beautiful Afghan culture that not many people write about. I am glad you are reading my blog. Thank you - Humaira

Amazing, yet strange. One American woman married an Afghan 52 years ago, writes a book "An Americam Bride in Kabul" now and trashes the religion, culture and her in-laws filling her Facebook comments with rage, hate and superficial concerns to promote her book and, another woman, also married to an Afghan writes lovingly, her fond memories from the same land and people, their food and culture. These are not two individuals personal experience since they both generalize their opinions and remarks based on their understanding and, surely some research. As an Afghan-American and a Muslem who understands why at this particular time such negative and provocative issues are stirring up feelings among Non-Afghans and Non-Muslims, would like Mrs. Helen Saberi to visit Phyllis Chesler's Facebook and respond to her harsh and degrading comments. Chesler was in Afghanistan for only 5 months living in seclusion but still manages to write a book and carry discussions as an expert.