Review - Sunny Sushi focus pays off with enjoyable dishes

Published: Monday, June 3, 2013 at 10:43 a.m.

Last Modified: Monday, June 3, 2013 at 10:43 a.m.

There are plenty of places to get decent sushi in Wilmington, so opening a new place downtown might seem a bit risky, especially with a couple of popular sushi spots nearby. Despite this, it looks like Sunny Sushi & Lounge will give it a pretty decent go on N. Front Street.

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I struggled with the daunting menu on my first visit, until the chef, Sunny Souvannarat, convinced me to let him surprise me. (It's the omakase, or "trust the chef," path.) I let him know a couple of my preferences and he delivered a plate of sashimi (raw fish), nigiri (rice topped with fish) and maki (rolls) that was a delight to look at, but tasted even better. The sashimi included what was described to me as red tuna, yellowfin tuna and mackerel. All were incredibly fresh, clean-tasting and not the least bit fishy.

Although it sounds like a contradiction in terms, baked sushi is a real thing, although I hadn't tried it before going to Sunny's. The baked rolls section of the menu is pretty extensive, so I tried the first thing with an amusing name and an unexpected ingredient. The Blue Velvet roll includes two preparations of tuna, two preparations of crab and sweet potato, among other things. Served warm, it was complex and quite satisfying, a welcome change from chilled or room-temperature rolls.

I didn't particularly think about it when I selected two fried rolls from the Carolina Maki section of the menu, but I suppose it's fitting to associate deep-frying with Southern cuisine, although I don't think everything is fried in the Carolina section. The "dynamite shrimp" roll included a baked crab salad, giving it a depth of flavor, and the Women in Black roll was topped with black flying fish roe (tobiko) to validate the name. Both had been tempura-battered and fried. Deep-frying the entire roll, nori (seaweed) wrap and all, adds an intense crunchiness not found otherwise.

Even though some of the names on the menu are humorous, and many evoke local images – including the Wrightsville, the Battleship or Queen Azalea rolls – the focus at Sunny is on quality ingredients and expert preparation, and not on gimmicks or even artful arrangement. The one exception I noticed was an imitation-crab-topped nigiri, which was lovely to look at but inferior to everything else I was served.

Sunny Sushi & Lounge has a pretty, modern interior which is perhaps a bit under-lit, but still very comfortable. The dining area is relatively small, but there are inside and outside tables, as well as a sushi bar. The upstairs lounge is unused at the moment.

There's a good beer and wine list and a pretty impressive sake selection.

The prices are very reasonable for families and the staff is attentive and accommodating. There is enough on the menu for practically anyone to explore (although I didn't see any chicken fingers) and I think the large number of cooked items makes it easy for even the squeamish to enjoy sushi on their own terms.

<p>There are plenty of places to get decent sushi in Wilmington, so opening a new place downtown might seem a bit risky, especially with a couple of popular sushi spots nearby. Despite this, it looks like Sunny Sushi & Lounge will give it a pretty decent go on N. Front Street. </p><p>The focus is on the food at Sunny's, and I enjoyed everything I had.</p><p>I struggled with the daunting menu on my first visit, until the chef, Sunny Souvannarat, convinced me to let him surprise me. (It's the omakase, or "trust the chef," path.) I let him know a couple of my preferences and he delivered a plate of sashimi (raw fish), nigiri (rice topped with fish) and maki (rolls) that was a delight to look at, but tasted even better. The sashimi included what was described to me as red tuna, yellowfin tuna and mackerel. All were incredibly fresh, clean-tasting and not the least bit fishy. </p><p>Although it sounds like a contradiction in terms, baked sushi is a real thing, although I hadn't tried it before going to Sunny's. The baked rolls section of the menu is pretty extensive, so I tried the first thing with an amusing name and an unexpected ingredient. The Blue Velvet roll includes two preparations of tuna, two preparations of crab and sweet potato, among other things. Served warm, it was complex and quite satisfying, a welcome change from chilled or room-temperature rolls. </p><p>I didn't particularly think about it when I selected two fried rolls from the Carolina Maki section of the menu, but I suppose it's fitting to associate deep-frying with Southern cuisine, although I don't think everything is fried in the Carolina section. The "dynamite shrimp" roll included a baked crab salad, giving it a depth of flavor, and the Women in Black roll was topped with black flying fish roe (tobiko) to validate the name. Both had been tempura-battered and fried. Deep-frying the entire roll, nori (seaweed) wrap and all, adds an intense crunchiness not found otherwise.</p><p>Even though some of the names on the menu are humorous, and many evoke local images – including the Wrightsville, the Battleship or Queen Azalea rolls – the focus at Sunny is on quality ingredients and expert preparation, and not on gimmicks or even artful arrangement. The one exception I noticed was an imitation-crab-topped nigiri, which was lovely to look at but inferior to everything else I was served.</p><p>Sunny Sushi & Lounge has a pretty, modern interior which is perhaps a bit under-lit, but still very comfortable. The dining area is relatively small, but there are inside and outside tables, as well as a sushi bar. The upstairs lounge is unused at the moment. </p><p>There's a good beer and wine list and a pretty impressive sake selection.</p><p>The prices are very reasonable for families and the staff is attentive and accommodating. There is enough on the menu for practically anyone to explore (although I didn't see any chicken fingers) and I think the large number of cooked items makes it easy for even the squeamish to enjoy sushi on their own terms. </p><p>I look forward to having Sunny surprise me again.</p><p>Features: 343-2343</p>