Having cut out the all the panels for this cab as per the cutting plan we can now get started on making the first few joins. Before we get into that, some thoughts on joinery methods. I’ve seen some discussion on the forum regarding gluing, using screws, other methods, screwing through panels from the outside etc. I use both glue (MDF specific or PVA white glue) and broad threaded countersunk screws designed for particle boards. I don’t usually build a cabinet with a view to pulling it apart again and try to put in some thought to access the inside where needed. Using screws and glue allows me to accurately position panels where they are just butt jointed and then the right glue for a permanent strong join.

I’ve seen some members using biscuit joinery for really clean looking results. I have used biscuit joinery myself for various cabinets (not just arcade ones) including 45 degree matched bevelled edges and the results can be really pleasing with the right equipment. Other techniques I’ve used include glued only cabinets using rebated panel ends and matching slots which I learned from my dad over the years, particularly with marine grade plywoods.

To make this design accessible to more people I’ve kept it very simple, just using bracing timber, butt joins, screws and glue. Is it OK to screw from the outside of a panel into an internal brace? What about the hole, and painting etc? With the right finishing this is not a problem at all.

I’ve used a bit of colour system in the diagrams just to indicate where panels or timber are in addition to the panels from the cutting plan. These are coloured blue. All bracing timber is just standard 1 x 2” which I see is actually ¾” x 1 ½” (19mm x 38mm). 2 x 2 could also be used.This cab will be sitting on a base fitted with caster wheels, as many builders start by constructing this first, let’s start with that also.

Choose caster wheels which are strong enough to handle the fully loaded cab, each wheel should be rated at least 50-60 kg. My preference is for casters with smaller wheels if you can find them. As the diagrams show the base is just constructed by pre-drilling the base panel and brace pieces and then gluing and screwing them together.

When attaching the casters make sure you allow for the turning circle each needs, no part of the caster should protrude over the edge of the base unit as this will be positioned at a set height internal to the cab, all caster frames should have a clear turning circle to allow easy movement in any direction when needed.

Next position the brace pieces as shown using the guide measurements. I’d trace with a pencil and then pre-drill the panels for screws points. Glue and screw the bracing pieces to each side panel as shown.

Attach one side to the base, butt joining the brace on the base tight up against the brace end on the panel. The height of the base allows for some clearance of wheels of around 1 ½” radius without having them on display. If you use caster wheels of a different radius you will need to adjust the height at which the base is attached to allow the wheels to clear the bottom of the cab.

Repeat with the other side panel.

The front and main top panel can now be attached as well to the braces.

Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?

This is awesome BTW.

These are all good options to consider and depending on what surface your cab will be resting on could vary. If you use casters with only a small wheel radius and it is going to rest on carpet then all turning casters are OK. I've confirmed this with other forum members as well. In this case the cab tends not to wander about as it's being played. If the cab is going to stand on a hard surface then locking casters or even just a pair of fixed casters at the back of the cab with small matching (in height) legs at the front could be an option. To move the cab you'd have to tilt it back on it's wheels. I'd still recommend positioning the base so that the bottoms of the panels clear the floor by an inch or so for a nicer 'hovering ' look.

Glad you like the project so far, I want it to be easy to read and useful to anyone wanting to use the design plan or just get ideas in general.

Since each person's wheels will likely vary, can you put a suggested height off the ground for the base of the side panels? You have 3-8/32 listed from the top of the base frame to the bottom of the side panel, but if someone following your instructions picks the smallest capable wheels, it's possible they could get interference with the ground.

Thanks! Fancy renderings have no place here, just plain clear illustrations. I guess that’s the value I can add to a description or instruction. Sometimes I find myself bamboozled by text only instructions cos I’m lazy and skim read them or they are written poorly. Ever had the joy of trying to decipher assembly instructions for something written by a non English speaker? I get to the end of them and just go “huh?” and then start all over.

Since each person's wheels will likely vary, can you put a suggested height off the ground for the base of the side panels? You have 3-8/32 listed from the top of the base frame to the bottom of the side panel, but if someone following your instructions picks the smallest capable wheels, it's possible they could get interference with the ground.

This looks great so far!

I’d go with no less than an inch of ground clearance from the bottom of the panels to the floor, this should cover most carpeted surfaces and still look good.

Thanks to the feedback everyone, I’ll get the concept model on page 1 prettied up with artwork as soon as I can as well.

I was pondering a possible second theme for this cab as well. As I’ve suggested people can take or leave what they like from this project but it is my intention to provide a complete package including artwork. So, as to a second theme. I’ve always wanted to do something with the animated Heavy Metal movie characters and theme. I have noticed someone else has already done this with a cab. Any thoughts on this?

If anyone is actually cutting timber or considering going ahead, let us know, I’m quite happy to have a progress pic or two in this thread. It’s all good stuff and would be useful to others.

I was pondering a possible second theme for this cab as well. As I’ve suggested people can take or leave what they like from this project but it is my intention to provide a complete package including artwork.

Whether you do a second theme or not you should also include a "blank" theme, meaning just blank templates or outlines for all the art pieces to make it easier for those who wish to design their own.

I was pondering a possible second theme for this cab as well. As I’ve suggested people can take or leave what they like from this project but it is my intention to provide a complete package including artwork.

Whether you do a second theme or not you should also include a "blank" theme, meaning just blank templates or outlines for all the art pieces to make it easier for those who wish to design their own.

Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?

Just throwing this out there, for my cabs [both on laminate flooring] what I did was counter-sink a lag bolt in a hockey puck [I'm in Canada!] and then put a sticky felt pad on the bottom. The puck handles the weight of the cab no problem! And the felt pad makes it easy enough to slide around but still heavy enough to not move when playing.

Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?

Just throwing this out there, for my cabs [both on laminate flooring] what I did was counter-sink a lag bolt in a hockey puck [I'm in Canada!] and then put a sticky felt pad on the bottom. The puck handles the weight of the cab no problem! And the felt pad makes it easy enough to slide around but still heavy enough to not move when playing.

Would love to see the Heavy Metal theme. Was also thinking about using this design for a fighters cab that I had been contemplating building for awhile. Unfortunately work is getting in the way so everything is on hold for awhile.

Can't wait for new updates it passes the time at work, that and trying to convince the bosses to use the cnc machine for other purposes other than work related stuff.

Logged

I need a house to put stuff in, instead of an apartment with stacks of boxes.

the curve you have in there will be difficult for many home wood workers to pull off. ...

I am a bit late to the party but first great idea Ond! I am dying to see more!

Leapinlew, actually curves are really easy with a router for home woodworkers. All that's needed is some direction on how to create the curve. There are some pretty easy and simple techniques to do curves with a router.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I will give the Heavy Metal theme further thought down the track.

The Back Panel and door......

Using the same method we used for the first sheet of 4 x 8 3/4", cut the Back Panel as per the cutting plan from the second 4 x 8 sheet.Mark with a pencil the cut-out section shown below using the measurements I've shown. Then make a cut-out in this panel using a circular saw and a saw fence. Once the saw cuts are made we will need to finish cutting each inside corner with a Jigsaw.

Next using our straight edge guide and clamps route a rebate along each edge of the cut-out. Set the router bit to cut 1/2" deep and clamp the guide so that the rebate is 9/32" wide.This will allow us to fit a door cut from 1/2" MDF.

Pre-drill the back panel and the support braces at the points shown, remember to over drill each screw hole in the back panel (I use a larger drill bit) to allow for counter sunk screws. We won't be gluing the Back Panel in just yet, just test fit with screws only.

Cut a door from 1/2" MDF as per the sizing shown. Fit the door to the cut-out with long narrow hinges.

Any reason why you chose to screw from the outside through each panel? Would it not be easier to screw from the inside till 2/3 inside each panel? That would also save you from filling/sanding all those screw holes. I'm asking because I'm still debating this for my own cab.

Any reason why you chose to screw from the outside through each panel? Would it not be easier to screw from the inside till 2/3 inside each panel? That would also save you from filling/sanding all those screw holes. I'm asking because I'm still debating this for my own cab.

A fair enough question, well my main reason is that's what I'm used to, filling slightly countersunk screws and sanding flush prior to painting. If you like the cabinets shape don't let that stop you building it though. You could instead screw into the panels from the inside wherever you prefer. My thinking is probably also because I prefer to to drive the screw right through the available thickness of a panel for maximum strength. Since it's being glued as well this is not that important. One final reason is the trade off of filling and sanding versus the ease of using a drill to power drive in screws from the outside of the cab. Screws located close to inside edges can be a pain to access with power tools especially.

Putting a hole in a panel is not a sin! In fact here and there I'll be using Bondo methods to fill and refine surfaces prior to painting that can really make a difference in the finished look of the cab. Some people hesitate to use Bondo as a construction material but honestly after a mild learning curve the stuff is the magic! To back up my words I'll happily provide a video/tutorial in this project thread of the filling and finish technique I'm suggesting.

[/quote]Putting a hole in a panel is not a sin! In fact here and there I'll be using Bondo methods to fill and refine surfaces prior to painting that can really make a difference in the finished look of the cab. Some people hesitate to use Bondo as a construction material but honestly after a mild learning curve the stuff is the magic! To back up my words I'll happily provide a video/tutorial in this project thread of the filling and finish technique I'm suggesting.[/quote]

I agree with the Bondo method. I have used it when building slot-car tracks and also building speaker cabinets. It is not really that hard to work with. I want to build this and I will be using Bondo!

Here are a couple of pics (the only ones I could find quickly) that show some Bondo work.

The First pic is about 1/2 through the "Bondo process"... Some of it is sanded, some not... If you have an orbital sander, it's easy peasy!

The second pic shows what it looks like afterwards. By the way.. that was my first try at using bondo.

What you don't see in the pic, is just how smooth a finish you get when using bondo. I have not built a cabinet yet, but I think I will bondo the entire CP (I will not be using vinyl at first, as money is tight).

Nice work on the slot car track! Yeah an orbital sander should really be added to the list of must have tools and certainly makes flat surface sanding much easier. Funny you should mention using Bondo for loud speaker building, this is another area I've also used Bondo on with great results. I've been tempted a few times to share that but eh, wrong forum I guess. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have. Anyway, more on this project soon as I can.

.. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have.

+1 I use to be a nurse, and had 4 days off a week... and was single. Now I've got a desk job, wife, kids, and about 3hrs a week to take on projects.

And yet you managed such great results on your project! The worst thing is when we had all the time in the world did we appreciate it? I was a squanderer, it must be karma in action.

Here's some more of this (I pulled the time out from somewhere).

The bezel is cut as per the cutting plan dimensions. Using a 45 degree chamfering bit the inside edges of the bezel can be edged to match the LCD screen nicely. An alternative could also be a curved or rolled over inner edge using an appropriate bit.

The next step will need to be customised to whatever wide screen 23” LCD you obtain. The casing edge around each brand may vary in width. Lay the LCD Screen face down on the rear of the bezel, use a set square to square it up with the cut out or (being careful) use a clamp with rubber pad or cloth and clamp the monitor in place checking its centered on the cut-out as you do. Then trace around the edge of it with a pencil. Use the pencil mark as guide for the rebate width. A snug fit is desirable but not essential. We’ll be using some small bent aluminium strips to secure the monitor into place down the track.

Having edged and rebated the bezel we can now work the next few steps. They are in a numbered order because each component basically provides the positioning reference for the piece that follows it.

Step 1Fix the CP Back Panel using support braces as shown. No exact measurements needed here for braces just make them as suggested in the diagram. The CP Back Panel should sit flush with the edge of each side panel.

Step 2Screw & glue support braces onto the rear of the bezel as shown. (Drive the screws in from the side you prefer). Using the top of the CP Back Panel as reference and the edges of the cab sides fix the bezel into position as indicated. The top of the CP Rear Panel will become a resting place for the bezel glass later on. Edit -note, I've mistakenly refered to the bezel glass as Marquee glass in the diagram, i'll correct this when I get a moment. Now fixed.

Step 3Next fit the lower Marquee Panel into place using the top of the bezel as reference. The angle of this panel is not super important but it will determine the height of the marquee later on.

Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!

Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!

Wish I'd read that somewhere before cutting out panels this past weekend for my current project (which has a lot of angles). I never even thought of using the router. Ordering set of chamfer bits now.

Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!

Wish I'd read that somewhere before cutting out panels this past weekend for my current project (which has a lot of angles). I never even thought of using the router. Ordering set of chamfer bits now.

Glad this thread is of some use to you fellas

Let's begin on the control panel construction for this cab. The panels are all cut as per the cutting plan dimensions using the methods I've already covered for straight cuts. The end panels are 3/4" thick whilst the rest are 1/2" thick MDF.

We're going to round off some of the corners and edges on these panels to give the CP it's distinctive look. This is a good spot to talk about cutting templates used with flush trim router bits.When I want to cut shapes out of MDF, holes for buttons and controls etc. my favourite approach is to use thinner MDF (or other materials) and form a cutting template to do this. A router really comes into it's element when used in this way with a guide template. A thinner sheet of MDF is much easier to form and shape than a thick piece. You can refine it with sandpaper and then use it multiple times to produce exactly matching panels. In this case we want to just round off the corners on the CP End panels. Now this might seem like a lot of effort just to round off some corners. How much easier to just clamp them together and take say a belt sander to them? You could use that method and also get a pretty good result depending on how handy you are with a mechanical sander. BUT, (there's always a but) in this case we want to wrap t-molding around these end pieces, if our rounding off effort isn't nice and square to the panel surface the t-molding is going to look less than awesome. Using a guide template we'll get rounded corners looking all the same and nice and clean.

Pencil trace around one of the CP End panels onto some scrap 1/4" thick MDF. Rough cut it out with a jigsaw, Then take your router and with a flush trim bit cut around the panel to produce a duplicate shape in the thinner material. Next take a compass (pair of compasses, not the magnetic kind ) and draw four arcs with a radius of 20/32" at each corner as I've shown below.

It's OK to use a sander or a Dremel or a sanding block, whatever you've got handy, to sand around these arcs until you have four matching rounded corners. We only need an edge for the bearing on the flush trim bit to trace around. Next clamp the template and a CP End panel together on your bench or a table and carefully route around the template adjusting the clamp and pieces as you go. Repeat with the other end panel. This can be a bit challenging as there isn't much surface area for the router base to sit on, if in doubt, practise a few times on some scrap pieces first. Also, note I've shown a diagram where the template sits on top of the piece being cut and using a top bearing flush trim bit. You could use a flush trim bit with a the bearing at the bottom and instead place the template underneath the piece being cut, this would provide more stability as the bearing runs along the template.

Finally we want to round off the edges of the CP Top panel and one edge only of the Bottom panel as shown below.

Next up we'll cut the holes and rebates for the buttons, trackball and joysticks into the CP top panel and then assemble the CP onto the cab.

OND-Getting ready to start my first project and your post is the perfect step by step "how to" guide to accompany all the more general guidance I have gotten elsewhere on the site. Do not know if I will build this specific design (looking for low cost CRT TV or used Arcade Monitor vice new LCD) but I will definitely adopt many of your ideas when planning my own project. Thank you from not only talking about the design but also the actual building techniques and tool use involved. Awesome.

OND-Getting ready to start my first project and your post is the perfect step by step "how to" guide to accompany all the more general guidance I have gotten elsewhere on the site. Do not know if I will build this specific design (looking for low cost CRT TV or used Arcade Monitor vice new LCD) but I will definitely adopt many of your ideas when planning my own project. Thank you from not only talking about the design but also the actual building techniques and tool use involved. Awesome.

This is really nice feedback - thanks for that. If this thread gives you some ideas or is useful in getting your own project off the ground then it's already been well worth the time I've put in so far. It's been a little while since I last updated this and I will be getting the next few build steps in as soon as I can. I don't think it would be that hard to adapt the design to a CRT monitor or TV, especially if they are de-cased. Don't let de-casing a CRT unit scare you. There is plenty of good info both on BYOAC and on the web in general on safely de-casing. Arcade monitors have purpose fitted chassis mount points, while there's often somewhere to bolt brackets onto most CRT TV/Monitor chassis.

Another tip, check reviews and tutorials from Epyx on setting up and configuring Arcade Monitors and adapter cards, his stuff is really well explained and thorough.

I see lots of downloads of the plans I posted. Any questions or suggestions? Fire away!

Thanks for doing this, Ond. A lot of the techniques you're mentioning really help a noob like myself. On top of that, this design was actually wife-approved! Classic look, not too bulky, and okay to put in our office.

I actually just started working on my cab based on your plans. One quick question: on your plans for the wood, it looks like at least one of the measurements is labeled wrong. On the right side of the cab, the total height is listed as 77 1/4". But, the height of the next highest angle is 77 14/32". Are those two measurements just switched? I could probably get it pretty close just by using the angles, but thought I'd mention it.

Thanks for doing this, Ond. A lot of the techniques you're mentioning really help a noob like myself. On top of that, this design was actually wife-approved! Classic look, not too bulky, and okay to put in our office.

I actually just started working on my cab based on your plans. One quick question: on your plans for the wood, it looks like at least one of the measurements is labeled wrong. On the right side of the cab, the total height is listed as 77 1/4". But, the height of the next highest angle is 77 14/32". Are those two measurements just switched? I could probably get it pretty close just by using the angles, but thought I'd mention it.

Thanks again!

Oops! You are right those measurements are wrong, the top most measurement should be 75 1/4" with the next angle starting at 72 14/32". Hmmm, I better recheck all measurements, I'll update the cutting plans with corrected measurements after that. Looks like a typo on my part. Well spotted, thanks!

Oops! You are right those measurements are wrong, the top most measurement should be 75 1/4" with the next angle starting at 72 14/32". Hmmm, I better recheck all measurements, I'll update the cutting plans with corrected measurements after that. Looks like a typo on my part. Well spotted, thanks!

Thanks Ond, that looks perfect. I was hoping to make first cuts today, but never got the chance. Hopefully within the next week.

I went trough this thread a few times to make myself familiar with the steps, and next up is getting the wood..the timber kind! Since we have metric system here, I'll round everything up to the closest. I'm also going to incule a rotating display (20" 4:3) so I need to do some modifications and the CP is going to have more stuff later on. What I wanted to say..THANKS! This is awesome! The design is exactly to my liking and the instructions are really good. Hopefully you'll be updating soon . If you have ideas for the bezel construction when having a rotating display, please share (or point me to the right direction, so I won't accidently hijack the thread )

Oops! You are right those measurements are wrong, the top most measurement should be 75 1/4" with the next angle starting at 72 14/32". Hmmm, I better recheck all measurements, I'll update the cutting plans with corrected measurements after that. Looks like a typo on my part. Well spotted, thanks!

Thanks Ond, that looks perfect. I was hoping to make first cuts today, but never got the chance. Hopefully within the next week.

No worries, when you do get building feel free to update your progress in here.

I went trough this thread a few times to make myself familiar with the steps, and next up is getting the wood..the timber kind! Since we have metric system here, I'll round everything up to the closest. I'm also going to incule a rotating display (20" 4:3) so I need to do some modifications and the CP is going to have more stuff later on. What I wanted to say..THANKS! This is awesome! The design is exactly to my liking and the instructions are really good. Hopefully you'll be updating soon . If you have ideas for the bezel construction when having a rotating display, please share (or point me to the right direction, so I won't accidently hijack the thread )

You're welcome and I'm glad you like the design. This cab design could work well with a rotating 4:3 20" display, when I fix up some minor typos in the current cutting plans, I'll give some thought to a Bezel that would suit rotation. My job is taking up all my time at the moment both during and after hours but hopefully I will have spare time this weekend. I always intended to do a metric version of the plans so I'll get that posted up as well.

It would be very useful to get actual build feedback on this design, as I said to Strokemouth feel free to post any comments you have during your build here also.

Might be that I missed something along the way, but it seems to me, that the designs don't have the back door included. First I thought that it's meant to be made from the back panel cutout, but then you mentioned, that it should be made from a 1/2 inch panel. Some ppl might not have extra 1/2 mdf lying around, so they need to make a extra trip to get the extra wood, when they realize that they are missing it (if they haven't read the instructions thoroughly enough)