The original SE34I and later SE34I.2 are well loved amplifiers, but our line has improved both sonically and visually in recent years... and with the bottom of the pile of those kinda cool copper vein textured steel chassis now in sight it was time to bring this wonderful amp up to speed with everything else.

So we've been secretly working on the new SE34I.3 that I am listening to as I write this! That means it's coming soon. I'll probably be able to start taking orders for very soon. Just keep an eye on the SE34I.2 page... when you see the SE34I.3 on there, you'll be able to order it.

It looks amazingly good. It's physically larger in size. Still uses EL34's, Still an SET amplifier of course and the same power as before.

Sonically it clearly out paces it's predecessors because this one is "lucid"! Yes, I stole lucid mode from the Taboo and made numerous other small improvements. The end result is a new benchmark for the imaging capability of SET amplifiers. Could be the best sounding EL34 SET amp ever built.

Since I was on the verge of ordering the previous model just about the time it was discontinued, it only makes sense to put in my request for the first order of the newly revised model. Sounds like great timing since there is an improved version for the same price!

On the rebound now, as the dust has settled, and life goes on in a new phase for me. I am starting fresh from scratch, for which analog purity through simplicity, and careful design, will be the focus within my new system approach.

Ultimately, I would prefer to have the tori zen for its well controlled behaviour and absolute strengths, however, I believe this new amplifier just may be the ticket for my exact needs with a sane price tag attached....only time will tell.

Get the new amp into my possession Steve, then perhaps I can see just how "exact" the satisfaction factor really is in what this amp design can do for me. I hope that it doesn't lead me into regret for not choosing the tori zen in the first place (such a difficult decision). When examined from a pure state of value based on the purchase price, this new SE34I.3 seems too hard to ignore for what it promises to deliver.

Of course this is your preliminary "teaser" phase for simply making the product introduction become a reality. As a seasoned veteran in audio, and a long time experienced user of decware products, I have already surmised that this amp design will be all that one could expect from its given parameters, in a very positive manner...one which is in direct consideration for the designer's track record for which there is no question. I for one have no need to question what has been proven over and over again. I see this as the best (performance-versus-price) target, for which seems to me as the best buy in your amplifier line-up.

The bottom line is this....once the exact details are released on the revised design, I for one will know exactly what to expect once it comes time to place that order. I hope that this information is posted soon as I am curious. In the meantime...I shall take my place in line to acquire the new SE34I.3 when available.

Thanks for all your creative contributions leading to a refined audio experience. Once again, you have proven zero bounderies for that which is possible "outside of the box". It is very much appreciated.

Gee Mr. Deckert, you told me it would be ready sometime in spring? I guess it may come up earlier than you thought at the time?

If it incorporates power regulation for both input and output stages, like the Mini Torii, and being sonically superior to it's predecessor, and a SET (with two more Watts/c), should I go back to my original choice and change my pending order on the Mini?

How do you compare these two niches in your product line? I guess the Mini has more slam and bass control, whereas the integrated will display more midrange transparency and detail? (triode vs pentode). If this is true, jazz and classical orchestral music (as opposed to acoustical and classical chamber music) would benefit more from the Mini?

Anyway, congrats on the new design! ... I guess my purchase timing was just not the best. Being so far away from Peoria makes swapping/2nd market alternatives very difficult, that's why I'm asking. I need to have a keeper. Take care ...

Heck, I own two now. At 1295? I am bringing this one into the stable too-riding her hard and putin' her away wet. LUCID mode on a EL34 and probably some tube regulation..... . I think I will like it too. -Stone

I must say though that having a solid state rectifier in this is in effect a plus. Steve nailed the choice here, and you don't have to wonder "what will the amp sound like with this tube," which is a diversion and distraction at times from enjoying the amp as it is.

I never once missed a tube rectifier with my .2, that aspect was just covered perfectly.

Lord Soth, If you get one of the Integrateds, be sure to try the 6N2P in that input position. Reallly interesting tube for this amp, I loved the combination. You lose some headroom though, so if you need all the power, not the best choice.

Steve himself was the one who got me to try them. The one caveat is that these can be prone to hum or because of their lower output can pass on hum. If you can talk your supplier into sending the quietest ones it might help.

The new Integrated will have 5U4 tube rectification but no tube voltage regulation like the Mini Torii, it's just too expensive. It is using a 5963 / 12AU7 input tube for each channel, whereas before it was a 6N1P/6922

While I can and have made solid state rectification sound good, I like the reliability of the tube rectification. With solid state all you need is a voltage spike in your AC line and presto, you've blown a diode and the amp has to go back to the mothership. After repair, it can happen again tomorrow.

The tube is far tougher when it comes to spikes and if it does fail, you just put another one in and you're back in business.

Anyway, I am glad for tube rectification. I know Steve is not a fan of solid state rectifier diodes. I auditioned the now discontinued EL34 mono blocks and did not like solid state recti'. The aggregate sound of the Amp(s) IMHO is greatly affected to the negative with SS rectification and is cheap to do and sounds cheap (hard). Tube designs with it, sound like solid state to me.

I am excited about the Lucid mode for this design. I use a very adequate Adcom AC Line Enhancer (ACE-515) with my SE84CS....with very noticable improvement....deep black low noise background for the Selects detail and can't be beat (so far) Transparency.

Hi stone, I'm curious about your Adcom line enhancer device. You seem to infer it really helps reduce the floor noise and blackens silence. This is the first time I hear somebody really happy with a Power Conditioner (is it?) that is not a PS Audio plant.

I could not afford a PS Audio, so being Adcom I guess it should be more affordable? Usually, power conditioners do not convince me. I rather use an isolator transformer. But then again, I don't have any real experience with power conditioners other than what I read.

Could you confirm this line enhancer is a successful power condoitioner of sorts, and explain basically the differences you sensed before and after adding this device? I may be interested in getting one if it works and is affordable.

The isolation T. should give you plenty of surge protection and de-couple your setup from the mains raw AC. The conditioner/enhancer should fine-tune voltage (120) and frequency (60 cycles), and hopefully both units will work together in shielding RFI (the isolation T. filtering the source AC RFI and the Enhancer/Cond. the local RFI.)

A good isolation T. is easy to build, and should work fine. I have doubts about the conditioner/enhancer, though. Unless a similar concept as the one applied by PS Audio, for example, is in place, I'm not sure how the filtering would be effective at actual time of event correction, without allowing transient effects getting through your system, and without interrupting the full power flow profile demanded by your gear at the event's exact time.

PS Audio Plant's design is essentially having a first class, controlled power plant of your own (that's why it works and that's why it is so expensive!)

This means either I evidently don't know enough on the subject, or the enhancers/conditioners only do a partial job, and in many deviation events they probably fail.

Now, I'm not saying this is the way it is, but I need arguments to support picking up a presumably good line enhancing device (there are so many out there ...), that is also affordable (by affordable I mean is a fraction of the cost of what your are trying to protect).

In any event, I welcome your's and anybody else's comments and experiences. Thanks, stone ...

First off, I think the system will sound great if all components are plugged into the wall. So you can always start there, I had that happening for a while before I had any type of power strip or treatment.

Interestingly if the measurement of my PS Audio Power Plant Premier is accurate the isolation transformer I used for years was adding a bit of noise to the system, that is this amount of noise was there when the Premier was plugged into the transformer versus when the Premier was plugged into the wall. That may have been because there is a power cord on the Premier that cost more than the Transformer and just the stock captive cord on the transformer? I don't know why specifically, it could be that the transformer was a bit defective? Puzzling, and another keen-eared listener here (Rad) has noticed that the same transformer I believe imparted a signature to his system, and when I read that and listened comparatively I think he was possibly dead on.

The moral of the story may be to buy a few power cords that work well with the components?

Or the very first step might be a very-high quality wall outlet or two?

So many variables and one of us should get a government grant to study the different cords and their effect on components both signal-wise and sonics-wise.

That's why I was saying using a conditioner to filter local RFI. This local RFI may also come from the transformer itself (it was not designed with high-end audio in mind, so it may definitely release some operating buzz.)

In any event, I know the system will sound good plugged to the wall, but then you know it can improve. Steve underlines the 2:00 a.m. relatively cleaner AC for out of body listening experiences ... Simply put, end sound quality also depends on AC quality.

I just hope I can find a line enhancer that may do the trick ... As for the power cords, these may impart character or signature, but if they are well built, that's tantamount to room reflections or other sound affecting variables we'll never control totally.

I think mains' AC specs inconsistencies (voltage and cycles) and RFI are really sound damaging ... not signatures. Now I'm afraid I may need shielded power cords to shield the isolation T's own RFI emissions. Have a nice listening session, Lon

Make sure you start with a good outlet. I'm using one Steve included with his power cords for a spell.

The transformer I was using is exactly the one I've known Steve to post and write about.

Regarding power cords, I've seen some pretty informed opinions that they can be a very good remover of EMI/RFI due to filtering by wire geometry and construction and shielding, and I know one audiophile who forgoes any sort of conditioning while using fairly expensive after-market cords.There are a number of layers to this onion. Your plan sounds sound.

Fireblade, I am glad Lon responded in regards to this...... . He has way more experience on the subject than I. I have learned from and enjoy his insights.

Anyway, I have owned the ACE - 515 since 1995. Yes, that long....and believe it to be functioning as well as the day it was new. It turns the Select and my three front end components on and off sequentially. All I know is when I change just one variable, for example, taking the Select Amp off the 515 and pluging just in to a surge protector....a level of haze is heard, not grain because the Select sounds pretty damn good out of the wall outlet. However, the 515 does sound just plain cleaner but not sterile of course.

The ACE -515 received some good press back then because amoung its competitors of the time, the 515 did not/does not suck the dynamics out of the music or change its character as some do and did. So, I love the 515, especially for what I paid for it back in 1995 dollars!

Now, in my Solid State Rig running my Polk SDA SRS 1.2 Speakers with my Rotel Integrated Amplifier RA-1062.....I use Kimber's best PK10 Palladian Power Cord just out of a surge protector. This cable is no Bull S, even compared to other good after market P-cords. It is more dynamic and tighter in the bass and I dare say more analog sounding! When I first got it.....I ABA'd the crap out of it in astonishment. I also bought it on Audiogon/Classifieds, for half the retail price from David Weinhart of Weinhart Design in California whom I spoke to on the phone.....to make sure how he got it and it was legit. David is top notch. Anyway, this cable sounds great in this application BUT NOT good with my two Tube Amps. The Tube Amps apparently don't need this P-Cord...it squoshes them negatively. SO, trial by fire. Now back to George Benson and his 2011 Guitar Man disc through the Select tonight........ . -Stone

Thank you, stone. I read there's the Adcom series 615 on the market replacing your model. Is good to see that Adcom held on to this design on the market for so many years, which I interpret as it being a good design.

Yes, I've been listening to Lon since I started this Decware quest, and hopefully I'll learn too. I just want to avoid some of the trial-and-error process, if I can.

Regarding the power cord, are you using your stock Select's cord or something from the aftermarket? I ask because this is another variable, as Lon has pointed out, and you seem to imply you don't need an improvement on the power cord for the Select. Is that right?

Lon, I'm not sure I have a real plan yet, just sort of assessing the possibilities. But I'm inclined at this point to use the isolation transformer, a line enhancer like the Adcom 615 and a 14 AWG shielded IEC power cord (this last one just for the Mini Torii).

You mentioned a specific isolation transformer as suggested by Steve. Is it too different from the Tripp Lite 500 Watts I ordered?

I'm looking for a shielded 14 AWG IEC power cord to maybe replace the hospital grade Iron Lung Jellyfish I ordered, wich is not shielded.

I read somewhere Volex are not built like they used to, now being a 100% chinese production, so I'm still looking.

Fireblade, I do use XLO Powercords. One each for my SE84CS & Torii 3. XLO PRO Dedicated AC Power Transmission Cable(s) to be exact. Each uses the square male Hubbell heads. Noise floor lowered indeed.

Furthermore, I use a Townshend CD Seismic Sink which my digital Audio Alchemy gear resides on. My system is also configured on the floor and the bottom floor. My power supplies are separates for the AA gear. I have these isolated (and away from audio gear) with ceramic tiles on top to minimize internal vibration (weighted with brass cones). I also use Ferrite Beads on power entry back to my three front end pieces. My Reference Speaker Cable 3033 and Interconnect Kimber 1030 also do well at noise reduction by design too.

As Lon mentioned as you iron things out....."Will last you a lifetime and provide great sound". It is good to go down a path to minimize mistakes as we all do. But, inevitably you will return or sell some items, make sure you have return policies, restocking fees etc....known up front and talk directly with people your buying from if possible. For example, I was willing to take the risk on the Kimber PK10 Palladian Power Cord after talking to David at Weinhart Design; and I also new I could sell it for what I paid for it on Audiogon once again. Of course I have tried quite a few new and used things over the years that have not fit my listening and genre(S) enjoyment and were returned or sold. You need to bring Speakers, Amps, Tubes, Front-Ends, and noise reduction devices into your room and for your listening preferences to make decisions.

Furthermore, without making this a separate thread..... . Get the best front end you can afford. In my SE84CS based system I put my well burned in DacMagic in place of my Audio Alchemy pieces for comparison. The AA gear also uitlizes the i2S function with a Audio Revelations Prophecy Cyro'd Silver i2S interconnect in conjunction with my Kimber Select. The DacMagic has NO BUSINESS BEING IN THIS SYSTEM. It is flat and 2 demensional compared to my AA digital. When/if my AA gear goes down (it will/it is 17 years old and I purchased new in April 1995).......a Wyred for Sound Dac 2 will be the minimum starting point. I might have to go up to PS Audio Perfect Wave. A testament to how good the AA gear was then and still is for the Redbook CD standard. Also, a testament to the SE84CS (now ZS) Transparency and music making abilites. Cheers, Stone of Tone

Thanks, stone, for the answer and the thorough description, quite impressive. I have experience with audio alchemy myself, since 1993 I believe (the first ones coming out). Good stuff, and a bargain at the time. It was plugged to my Enlightened Audio Designs Transport and beat the Theta processor I had previously.

In my case, I get stuck with the stuff I don't like, as I cannot ship this back to the seller or anyone interested in buying them (too far away), and locally these things are not appreciated. So, I need to be really careful in choosing my components, as you can tell.

I think one of my weak links is the USB DAC (I'm using laptop music streaming, exclusively), but will need to check it out with the Decware gear in place. My HRT Music Streamer II beats the Dac Magic also. It improved my current SS system by much (beating a Hi-Fi DVD/CD player with Toslink optical outputs and such.) Not sure if it will be up to par with the new gear. So, yes, I'm aware of the importance of source components.

I already ordered a popular, inexpensive but well reviewed power cord, the Iron Lung Jellyfish 14 AWG hospital grade. Just one step above the stock power cord, mind you. Little risk to start with, looking for reliability. Long-term will have to be replaced by Decware's, probably (quality of materials and know-how should make a difference).

IC's I have 2 pairs of Vampire ZTC 75005 (great copper) from my earlier setup. Eventually will have to be upgraded too. I'll stick to the Tripp Lite 500 Isolator plus Jellyfish for the time being until everything breaks in. Then we'll see.

Lon, I wish I could do that, but I have to go through my importer, so it's not feasible, unless he would auction himself and I'm sure he won't. My loss.

Lots of what I read on the net is. . . BS. I would consider that about shielded power cords to be BS from my personal experience. Most of those I've liked have been wrapped with four shields! There is one that has an all copper shield, which sounds like it would be the bomb, and I really don't like its sound, so nothing is absolute. And there are those who prize longer lengths of power cords saying THEY sound better than shorter ones. Really, it's crazy. I don't really know what to believe any longer, I just try things for myself with as open a mind as I can muster.

I agree on all the BS around. But the more one reads, the better informed one is to make a decision. I guess it's a matter of using common sense and keep basic concepts on check to decide whether a proposal is worth trying.

The best approach, nevertheless, is to ask people you trust, as you mentioned earlier. Problem is, you have to have those contacts, which are scarce.

BTW, there's a reason for longer shielded power cords to work better, according to proponents of shielded cables, as it provides more opportunity to extend the magnetic shielding field surrounding the cable as current passes through (the right-hand rule, as is known in electrical engineering). But this is, of course, their interpretation.

There is a lot of BS flying around, just as there are many different circumstances and very few systems set up identically.

Ordinarily, shielded ICs are not so great. But, if you have a bunch of devices running 5.1 in and out of your Ultra, along with other multiple inputs and outputs, even Steve will tell you there can be a benefit to shielded ICs, and Decware even offers them. Lon, I believe those Audioquest ICs from HCM Audio with which we have had reasonably good experience, are shielded. I prefer the short runs of my Decware ICs, but sometimes the right tool is a different one.

Of course, there's always a small percentage of cases where there's really much interference going on ... but then one pays the price with higher capacitance due to the shielding, or at least that's the contention..

Talking about variables, today I discovered another positive tweak: Replaced my KM Player with Foobar2000, and it tangibly improves the overall presentation. Sharp edges are out, midrange is rounder and as detailed, performers are not so much 'on your face' with voices coming through sounding much more natural.

This is just the SW that plays back the FLAC or WAV files through the USB/DAC. This proves my USB/DAC is not that bad, after all. Unfortunately, Foobar does not support Ape format, so I still need the KM Player (which is a second best now) for those, until I swap my music collection to WAV format.

Maybe white high gloss powder coat finish and wood base options like the rest of the amps. Also, with a larger size maybe the depth will increase to accomodate multiple inputs and some high-end jacks to run along the back end - verticle connections!

Steve, how about preview for the forum members? Promise we won't show anyone else.

I am so digging my Torii 3 now and I have loved the SE84CS coming up on 11 years now.... . I am just going to order it when Steve posts it. Rotate the Amps as I see fit. I am glad I'm going to drive my paid for vehicle for two more years so I can top out my Audio needs........ .