FISH STICKS

The cubes of tilapia in the fish kabobs ($13.99) at Pasha (2325 University, 713-592-0020) are marinated in olive oil and Turkish spices before being charbroiled, which adds a smoky flavor to the fish. There's no need to remove the tilapia from skewers, since that's taken care of by the kitchen -- all you have to do is enjoy the fish, which is served with red onions, delicious pickled red cabbage and a salad of tomatoes, cucumber and red pepper. This a standout dish, simple yet robust.