One thing you definitely will not notice when you set foot in J. Harrod's Restaurant & Bar is the soundtrack. There isn't one. There is no music whatsoever. The only thing to be heard in the place is conversation and the quiet clatter of silverware. This is a rare and welcome thing in Louisville dining — I can't remember the last time I ate a restaurant meal that didn't include musical accompaniment.

In many ways, J. Harrod's seems happily out of step with the times. In an era when exposed brickwork and open ceilings have become the clichés of rustic nostalgia, owner Michael Francis has reached back in time to create an old-school suburban sanctuary complete with soft carpet, green plaid wallpaper, a massive wood-paneled fireplace and well-spaced, generously sized tables.

Ballard runs a good kitchen. Her Hot Brown ($16.50) is made with freshly roasted turkey and topped with a light, tangy Mornay sauce that's broiled to a gorgeous bronze finish and garnished with sizzling slices of bacon. She serves up big mounds of crispy chicken livers ($16.95) flavored with bits of country ham and sluiced in brown gravy.

Some details aren't all they could be. A complimentary basket of bread would be better if warmed, and the accompanying spread would be better if soft. On the other hand, house-made dressings (like an indulgently creamy Thousand Island) lend the salads plenty of oomph, whether a simple house salad or a handsome dinner salad topped with grilled chicken, green olives, tomatoes and cheese ($11.50).

For the most part, the kitchen gets things right. Filets of chicken breast are brined, dipped in buttermilk, then hand-battered and fried to a satisfying crunch ($14.95). Sides like real mashed potatoes, lima beans, pleasantly seasoned green beans and a cabbage casserole that falls apart at the touch of a fork are more than just afterthoughts.

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And if it's comfort food you're craving, the Sunday night menu includes options like chicken and dumplings, and a juicy meatloaf slathered in a faintly spiced red sauce.

Service is notable for teamwork, efficiency and intelligence; everyone working the dining room (including the owner) is vigilant about keeping the tables stocked and cleared. And servers seem to know the menu inside out (and are willing to share their recommendations, when asked).

And folks looking for a pasta dish rich enough to ward off winter shivers will love the Pasta Magnolia, an oversized plate full of bowtie pasta in a creamy Parmesan sauce flecked with country ham, peppers and onions, and garnished with a couple of spears of meltingly tender asparagus ($17.50).

On recent visits, the desserts at J. Harrod's (house-made) have received mixed responses. A piping hot apple pie (served as an entire mini-pie, rather than as a slice) had a great crust and was filled with rich, brown, cooked apples, but the taste of apples barely crept through the powerful spice mixture; and the buttery cream served with the bourbon bread pudding was so sweet and aromatic that only those of us most devoted to extremely sugary desserts could abide it. But a scoop of house-made vanilla ice cream struck just the right balance.