Book Review: “Finishing School” by Deborah Newton

When Deborah Newton writes a reference book, it's safe to assume that it's a classic and you should have it.

Deborah Newton is the kind of author that everybody should pay attention to, not only because she designs beautiful sweaters but also because she is very generous with her professional guidance. I believe her first book, “Designing Knitwear,” has been in print since it was first published back in 1998, and her newest book, which has just been published by Sixth & Spring Books (the book division of the same company that publishes Vogue Knitting) is destined for the same sort of longevity. “Finishing School” is the sort of book you should devour if you want your sweaters to look wonderful.

"Finishing School" by Deborah Newton will teach you the answers to questions you didn't even know that you had. And the more you absorb, the better your sweaters will look.

Deborah says she loves to finish garments because she loves the process, and because when a sweater is finished properly, it is then perfect for the first and only time. Once someone starts wearing it, it will eventually become worn or stretched, but at that one moment when you have finished all the seams and blocking and other finishing touches, it is perfect. It’s a nice way to think about the process of finishing properly.

Deborah will show you in this book how to swatch in a way that tests more than just the gauge of the sweater, and then she will go on to explain the characteristics of different fibers. She will tell you how to seam in ways that fit harmoniously into the design of the garment. She will compare different fibers knitted in the same patterns to help you choose the type of yarn that will best suit your needs. And best of all, she will let you in on little design secrets she’s used, taking you behind the scenes so you can actually see how she designs her sweaters. It’s fascinating and instructive.

This is not an inexpensive book. It’s about $30. But everything in this book is valuable, and if you plan to knit professionally in any capacity, whether you are test knitting, knitting for hire or designing, you will find tips and advice that make the price worth it. And it’s a coffee-table-quality book, so you can leave it out on display proudly when you aren’t consulting it. But it’s the kind of book you should either consult often or memorize.

Let me be more specific. This book will show you how to seam your pieces together. And this is very useful. But if, like me, you choose to knit most of your sweaters in one piece, this means that at some point, you will most likely pick up stitches. It might be at the armholes, the neck, the button placket, or the trim on a pocket, but trust me, at some point, you’ll find yourself picking up stitches to knit in a new direction or to go beyond a bind-off. In chapter 4, Deborah covers all that, with detailed photographs to illustrate her points. She’ll explain things like choosing a needle size, creating a firm join, avoiding holes and how many stitches to pick up. That last one is very tricky.

In short, Deborah will teach you to love the process of finishing your sweater. After you read this book, you will probably never again be afraid to finish a project.

At the very end of the book, there are some Deborah Newton patterns that illustrate all the techniques used in the book. In fact, all through the book, she refers to these patterns, so you know just what’s going on in them by the time you get to sit down and read the pattern. She includes scarves, tunics, sweaters for adults and children, vests, color work, cables and lace.

One thing I would like to say about Deborah. As good as this book is, and as much as she tells you about what to consider before starting a project, I don’t believe she discusses choosing a cast-on or bind off at all. And here’s something very wonderful about her as a person. Just as the book was going to press, we had a discussion in the Knitters group on Facebook about cast-ons. Our good friend Helen Griffin from the Golden Apples blog (see the list of blog links on the right) said something about how she knows more than 50 ways to cast on and asked how many cast-ons other members of the group use.

Deborah said initially that she generally uses the long-tail cast-on. Then she came back the next day and said she was thinking all day what a rich subject Helen had raised and how she’d never considered using different cast-ons for different projects. You’ve gotta love humility like that. Never afraid to learn something new, that’s Deborah Newton.

And I fully expect Helen or Deborah to publish a book one of these days about why you want a different cast-on for a top-down sweater than a bottom up sweater, why you want a different cast-on for toe-up socks versus cuff-down socks, why you want a tubular cast-on whenever you’re ribbing and how to match your cast-on to your bind-off.

In the meantime, if you only buy one book about knitting this year, you probably should get this one. ‘Nuff said.

About Pam MacKenzie

Pam MacKenzie grew up in a real estate family. Her parents were real estate brokers and office managers, and she herself was a licensed agent in the 1970s. But early on, Pam discovered she'd much rather write about the industry than sell. Now in her eighth year as the real estate editor at the Courier News, Pam believes she has the best job at the paper. In this blog, she's on a mission to empower readers to give them a strong understanding of anything and everything that can impact their ability to own a home. And she believes passionately that when you understand the real estate industry in New Jersey, you understand so much more: the education system, economic and racial bias, the way politics works or doesn't work and ecology, to name a few. She invites everybody to leave lots of comments, even when they disagree with her.

At $30 it’s too much for a self-splurge. Onto the Santa-list this goes….

About this Blog

Pam explores local knitting groups and yarn shops, critiques patterns and shares her wisdom on techniques for improving your craft.

About the author

Pam MacKenzie
Our real estate editor, Pam MacKenzie, expresses her creative side in this blog about knitting. Pam learned to knit at age 6, when her friend’s mother made Pam’s doll a dress, and Pam wanted to make more. Her mother wanted her to learn how to sew in high school, but she was afraid of the sewing machines, cutting fabric the wrong way, and the potential that sewing would have for bringing down her grade-point average. Every year, she managed to find a course conflict to avoid sewing classes. But the day after high school graduation, she took her graduation money to a fabric store, bought a kit to make a sweater, taught herself to read patterns and never looked back. These days, she knits a prayer shawl every month, along with sweaters, tote bags, gift bags and other goodies. She also designs many of her projects. Read More About PamE-mail Pam