I am one of thoes people that did NOT have probelms. I am still very happy with my install. I did not mess with proportining (safety) valve. Did not change master cylinder. I did use a harbor freight vacuum brake bleeder (about $20), this type gets air bubbles out way faster and you dont need to mess with the proprotinging valve then. Its like a speeed gravity bleed. You can get about 3 oz of fluid through without issue.

Installed calipers used washers as shims to get everthing in the right spot. One thing I can remember doing a little "different" is I set the emergency brake when bleeding figuring that getting more space behind the pistion in the caliper was good to help get the air bubbles out. It did take a week or so for the pistons to stop retracting into the caliper housing. I think heat and cool cycles help with this.

I am hoping to have a set-up like yours soon. I would like to keep as much of the original system in place as possible. And the more reading and thinking that I do, the more I am convinced that my pedal issues are not the result of the conversion. So, I finally broke down and bought the tool to reset the proportioning valve during bleeding. Should be here by Friday.

I too had no issues. Junkyard nissan 300 rear calipers, geotracker rotors that needed their stud holes drilling a little and some washers

I had manual brakes and kept without alteration the proportioning valve

The only issue i had was bleeding and found that using a block of wood between the pads with the caliper off the wheel worked best. Making the bleed valve at the top rather than on the side did the trick

Then i went mad and installed a mustang hydroboost and the 35s luck up at all 4 corners when i need them to.

I was looking at the 68 Corvette MC. They one for Power one for manual. The Power has bore shaft of 1.25. The Manual has bore shaft of 1" whaich is the same as the CJ power MC. Both have the same size reservoir for fuild. So does it really matter which one to use? Is 1.25 bore better, worse or doesn't matter?

I went with the power one, just remember the end of the piston (ram) has a hole in it, where as your Jeep MC was solid.. I used a bolt and rounded the head on the grinder to fit flush..Works perfectly!!

I have a disk/disk prop valve on order, this is going to be the last thing I do for this upgrade. I am OK with how it is working now, the fronts have never been better, but I would like a little more grab in the rear..(yea, I said that)...

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You don't need a parachute to skydive... You need a parachute to skydive TWICE!!!

Up here - we go by results, when you preached, people slept. When he flew, people prayed.

I was looking at the 68 Corvette MC. They one for Power one for manual. The Power has bore shaft of 1.25. The Manual has bore shaft of 1" whaich is the same as the CJ power MC. Both have the same size reservoir for fuild. So does it really matter which one to use? Is 1.25 bore better, worse or doesn't matter?

All things being equal, the MC with the larger piston will push more fluid volume but won't produce as much clamping force at the caliper. The smaller piston won't push as much volume but will clamp harder.

The correct combination will push enough volume, and clamp hard enough, to work correctly with the selected calipers. Too big of a MC bore, and the brake pedal can be difficult to push.. while not clamping the caliper hard enough. Too small of a MC bore, the pedal will push easily, but may run out of travel before the calipers clamp down on the rotor.

In the world of Master Cylinders a bore difference of 1/4" is quite a bit.

A few CJs ago, I was trying to sort out a hyrdaulic clutch conversion using aftermarket (Tilton) master cylinders. Swapping between 7/8", 1" and 1 1/8" bores made a big difference in how much the clutch fork moved.. and how hard the clutch pedal was to push.

All things being equal, the MC with the larger piston will push more fluid volume but won't produce as much clamping force at the caliper. The smaller piston won't push as much volume but will clamp harder.

The correct combination will push enough volume, and clamp hard enough, to work correctly with the selected calipers. Too big of a MC bore, and the brake pedal can be difficult to push.. while not clamping the caliper hard enough. Too small of a MC bore, the pedal will push easily, but may run out of travel before the calipers clamp down on the rotor.

In the world of Master Cylinders a bore difference of 1/4" is quite a bit.

A few CJs ago, I was trying to sort out a hyrdaulic clutch conversion using aftermarket (Tilton) master cylinders. Swapping between 7/8", 1" and 1 1/8" bores made a big difference in how much the clutch fork moved.. and how hard the clutch pedal was to push.

So with that said, I wonder what size bore the nissian uses? I will have to look that up.

Eddie..
I modified the bracket for the ebrake on the drivers side. By doing this I was actually able to use both stock cables. I moved the calipers to the forward positions on the axles, and re routed the ebrakes to fit.

I have brakes now. NOt great, but they stop.

I feel a HUGE need for a pair of 60s under this thing!!

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You don't need a parachute to skydive... You need a parachute to skydive TWICE!!!

Up here - we go by results, when you preached, people slept. When he flew, people prayed.

HI TITANJEEP, DID YOU GET YOUR BRAKES WORKING PROPERLY? AS I STATED IN A PREVIOUS POST I WAS NOT COMPLETELY HAPPY WITH THEM. THIS PAST WEEKEND IN INSTALLED A VACUUM BOOSTER FROM AN 80 CJ7. ALSO INSTALLED A 1968 CORVETTE MASTER CYLINDER WITH THE DISC-DISC OPTION. I FINALLY HAVE BRAKES I CAN LIVE WITH. THE MORE I DRIVE IT THE PADS ARE BEDDING AND THE BETTER IT STOPS. FEELS LIKE BRAKES WE ARE ALL USED TO. ISN'T JUST A HARD PEDAL. SINCE I HAD TO MAKE THE BRAKE LINES FROM THE MASTER TO THE PROP VALVE LONGER, I BLEW OUT THE LINES TO TAKE THEM TO THE PARTS STORE. THE FRONT BRAKE LINE BLEW OUT JUST FINE. THE 1/4' REAR BRAKE LINE WAS INTERESTING. IT SEEMED TO HAVE SOME KIND OF A RESTRICTION IN IT. WHATEVER BLEW OUT I COULD NOT FIND. REALLY WANTED TO FIND IT. THE REAR BRAKES HAD FLUID. OH WELL. HOPE YOU GET YOURS WORKING.

HI TITANJEEP, DID YOU GET YOUR BRAKES WORKING PROPERLY? AS I STATED IN A PREVIOUS POST I WAS NOT COMPLETELY HAPPY WITH THEM. THIS PAST WEEKEND IN INSTALLED A VACUUM BOOSTER FROM AN 80 CJ7. ALSO INSTALLED A 1968 CORVETTE MASTER CYLINDER WITH THE DISC-DISC OPTION. I FINALLY HAVE BRAKES I CAN LIVE WITH. THE MORE I DRIVE IT THE PADS ARE BEDDING AND THE BETTER IT STOPS. FEELS LIKE BRAKES WE ARE ALL USED TO. ISN'T JUST A HARD PEDAL. SINCE I HAD TO MAKE THE BRAKE LINES FROM THE MASTER TO THE PROP VALVE LONGER, I BLEW OUT THE LINES TO TAKE THEM TO THE PARTS STORE. THE FRONT BRAKE LINE BLEW OUT JUST FINE. THE 1/4' REAR BRAKE LINE WAS INTERESTING. IT SEEMED TO HAVE SOME KIND OF A RESTRICTION IN IT. WHATEVER BLEW OUT I COULD NOT FIND. REALLY WANTED TO FIND IT. THE REAR BRAKES HAD FLUID. OH WELL. HOPE YOU GET YOURS WORKING.

Having just read this entire thread, it seems there are a lot of kinks that still need to be ironed out on this upgrade. I was thinking about doing this when I rebuild my axles, but my drums work fine, and I don't want to go thru the frustration Truck has, so I think I'll pass.

Has anyone put together a concise, and successful, install write-up on this, or are we still in the R&D phase?