Seasonal Engine Maintenance

"Winterizing" is not just for equipment in cold-weather climates.
Any equipment that sits idle for long needs the extra attention.

On equipment with plastic fuel tanks (like that above), drain
the tanks before storage. Conversely, you should fill metal fuel
tanks to prevent them from rusting. In either case, drain the
carburetor bowl.

Generally, equipment managers "winterize" equipment to increase
or maintain performance in winter or prevent problems after long
periods of winter storage. However, this is not only necessary
in the winter. Many engines that operate in areas that see no
winter at all still need this type of service. Therefore, I like
to refer to this as seasonal service, not "winterizing."

Some people perform seasonal maintenance simply because the owners
manual tells them to, without understanding that good practical
reasons exists to perform this maintenance. It helps the engine
perform better and last longer. Seasonal maintenance also reduces
down time and repair bills. Whenever an engine does not run for
an extended time (6 to 8 weeks or more), regardless of climate,
you should perform this service.

Step1: Choose a suitable storage site

The storage location you choose for your equipment is important.
If you store the engine out of direct sunlight, your results will
be far better. Sunlight causes problems because it warms up metal
parts, which then cool down when the sun no longer strikes the
equipment. This causes water condensation to form. In a semi-sealed
area such as a carburetor fuel bowl or a crankcase, this condensation
can accumulate. When this happens in cold climates, ice can form
in these areas. The result may be broken parts and big repair
bills.

However, even in warm climates this is still a problem because
water in the fuel system will cause an engine to run roughly or
quit. Plus, if you allow water to remain in the fuel bowl for
an extended period, it can cause oxides to form on the aluminum
parts. These white particles often dislodge and plug vital parts
such as the fuel passages. I have even found such severe pitting
that I had to replace the entire carburetor because some parts
had completely dissolved.

Water in the crankcase can blend with the oil or cling to unprotected
metal, causing rust to form on machined parts. Sunlight can also
cause plastic and rubber parts-such as hoses and rubber manifolds-to
fail from prolonged intense exposure. Good storage sites are cool
and dark (shaded). In such sites, the temperature is less likely
to vary enough to cause condensation to form.

Step 2: Prepare the fuel system

Cooler temperatures also minimize evaporation of the fuel during
storage. Usually a smaller volume of fuel evaporates more quickly
than a large volume of fuel. For this reason, I suggest that you
drain your carburetor fuel bowls, but keep the fuel tank as full
as you can. Another reason to keep the fuel tank full is to keep
the unpainted surfaces of the tank coated with fuel. This will
keep rust from forming on exposed areas. One last reason to keep
fuel tanks full is that air temperature changes more quickly than
liquid temperatures. Thus, the temperature swings wont be as
great with a full tank, and you wont end up with nearly as much
condensation.

If your equipment has a plastic fuel tank, dont think that you
are in the clear. The tank may not rust, but you still have to
deal with condensation. Therefore, if the size and situation allows,
drain the plastic tank as well as the carburetor. Then you should
not have any metal parts that will rust.

This is a good place for a word of caution about two-stroke engines
that use a diaphragm-type carburetor. If you drain the fuel from
these engines, you may cause diaphragms to crack or harden. In
this case, I feel its wise to keep the fuel tank full and to
use a chemical fuel additive designed for storage. In addition,
these small carburetors are especially susceptible to varnish
formation. This is another reason to use chemical fuel additives
instead of draining the system.

Step 3: Repairing any fuel-system problems after storage

If you stored your equipment properly, you will probably have
few repairs to make when you bring it back into service. However,
if you neglected to prepare your equipment properly for storage,
you may need to perform some repairs.

* Four-stroke engines. With four-stroke engines, the storage damage you are most likely
to experience is gummy carburetors or dirt. The dirt is usually
a result of the varnish (the residue left behind after fuel has
evaporated) remaining in the fuel bowls. If you catch it early
enough, it may be soft and gummy. However, if you leave it for
an extended time, it turns to hard crystals. These crystals can
dislodge and float around in the fuel bowl when you add new fuel.
They then can plug the small orifices that control the fuel flow
to the motor.

To remove varnish in the early stages is easy. Simply spray some
choke-and-carburetor cleaner in the problem areas, and it will
rinse away. Another trick is to use compressed air for the problem
areas and tight passages. The problem becomes more difficult the
longer you leave it unattended. If the varnish is hard, you first
must use dip-type carburetor cleaner. You usually can find this
type of cleaner at automotive-supply stores.

Dip-type cleaner is highly caustic, so be careful in how you handle
this material. Read the label for soak times and proper clean up. Most carburetor part dips
can dissolve small rubber parts, so you must completely dismantle
the entire carburetor and remove all rubber pieces before using
the dip. Take the carburetor completely apart so the chemical
can reach all parts and passages. In many cases, it may be necessary
to soak the carburetor two, three or more times.

Be sure to follow the labels time schedule for keeping the carburetor
in the solvent because it can destroy the metal parts if you leave
them in the dip for too long. If the dip needs additional time
to remove deposits completely, remove and clean the parts and
then repeat the process rather than exceed the recommended time
limits in a single dip. I have seen some cases where aluminum
parts were pitted so badly from excessive dip times that they
required replacement.

If you find that your problem areas are in the small air bleeds
and vents, use a small parts-tag wire or a torch tip cleaner.
However, use caution with this method because it is easy to enlarge the holes if you
are too forceful.

* Two-stroke engines. You can use many of the same methods for two-stroke engines.
However, be aware that you may find more rubber parts and diaphragms
that the solvents can damage. Fortunately, the oil/gas mixture
in two-stroke engines helps keep the varnish in a softer, gummier
stage for a longer time.

Step 4: Clean and repair fuel tanks if needed

You can clean fuel tanks in much the same way as carburetors-you
just dont have as many parts with which to deal. The first step
in cleaning a fuel tank is to drain it to see what kind of problem
you may have.

If the problem is rust, pour a small pack of BBs in the tank with
some parts-washing solution and shake it vigorously. This loosens
the large, scaly pieces of rust. After you have shaken them around,
pour the BBs into a paint strainer (to save them for use later).
Now flush the tank several times with clean parts-washing solvent
to remove any remaining loose debris.

If you caught the problem early, you might not have to do anything
more than this. However, if you find pitting or small holes in
the tank, you will need to seal the inside of the tank with a
liquid seal made specifically for gas tanks. Avoid other types of sealers because the fuel might dissolve
them, causing more problems farther downstream (in the carburetor).

Just because you have a plastic fuel tank on your equipment, you
are not out of danger. Dried fuel can still cause a varnish-type
material to form in the tank, and it can plug the fuel system
just as badly as rust. Fortunately, the BB method works as well
in plastic tanks as it does in steel tanks. Although plastic tanks
are not maintenance-free, they still are more trouble-free than
steel tanks. Thus, if you have to buy a replacement, select a
plastic tank if its available for your equipment.

If you use fuel additives, be sure they are compatible with your
fuel system. Keep in mind that manufacturers usually market these
additives for automobiles. Therefore, the containers often are
scaled for a 15- to 20-gallon fuel tank, not a 2- to 5-gallon
tank. Read the label to see if it provides specific instructions
regarding how much to add. If not, be sure to proportionally reduce
the amount you add to account for the smaller tank size.

Step 5: Maintaining fuel- and oil-injection systems

If an oil-injection system (most smaller engines such as trimmers
and saws do not use oil injection) requires repair, its usually
because of dirt that got into the system, not because of some
problem with the oil itself. Cleaning oil systems is simple: just
disassemble them, wash the parts and reassemble. Oil is quite
stable and has a long shelf life. Therefore, storage doesnt usually
affect its quality. The best advice I can give you is to stay
with a known brand of oil instead of a generic type.

Conversely, fuel-injection systems are prone to some long-term
storage problems. One of the most common is gumming from varnish
buildup. This will cause injector units to malfunction. No really
good way exists to drain an injector unit completely, so the best
prevention is to use chemical fuel additives for storage instead
of trying to drain the system.

If an injector still works but you dont feel it is running quite
right, you can try additives for injection systems that you pour
directly into the gas tank. As the fuel passes through the system,
it will clean light deposits from injectors. Other than this, the only way to repair
an injector is to replace it with a new one, so heavier deposits
may require you to replace the injectors.

If you have to change an injector, be sure to wait until all of
the engine parts (especially mufflers and manifolds) are completely
cool. Moreover, be sure to clean up any spills that happened during
the repair. Remember to change all the fuel filters as well as
the injectors. This will prevent any fuel contamination from entering
your new injectors.

A few final notes about fuel:

* Although it is possible that dirt or water in your fuel system
came from your fuel supplier, dont overlook your own storage
containers.

* All fuel systems benefit from in-line fuel filters, but make
sure the ones you use are suitable for your system-fuel-injection
systems use high pressure or volume and can tear a conventional
filter apart.

* Reformulated gasoline usually contains alcohol, which has a
natural tendency to draw moisture from the air around it. If you
are in a region where reformulated gasoline is used, be aware
that storing your equipment with this type of fuel in an environment
with high humidity can cause a buildup of water in the gas just
by letting it sit around. Dont forget that this can happen with
gas cans too, not just fuel tanks.

Step 6: Consider seasonal service for cooling systems

Up until now, this discussion has applied to air-cooled as well
as liquid-cooled engines. However, the cooling system itself also
needs attention-every year on your liquid-cooled machines. Most
equipment today is either all aluminum or at least has aluminum
heads and radiators. Thus, it is important to use only coolants
that are compatible with aluminum systems. Fortunately, most coolants
are suitable. The problem usually shows up with fleet accounts
that buy coolant in 55-gallon drums. Occasionally, an equipment
manager will purchase bulk coolant that is suitable only for steel
protection and then, forgetting this fact, use the coolant thats
on hand for all the engines.

Aluminum radiators transfer heat efficiently until they begin
to plug with mineral and dirt buildup. Thus, you should change
the coolant at least once a season. Use distilled water when blending
the 50/50 mix to prevent mineral buildup in the cooling system.
At the same time, also check all hoses for cracks and soft spots
that could cause costly downtime the following season. In addition,
inspect the belts for cracks or other damage and check the operators
log for any reported cases of overheating. If so, now would be
a good time-while the system is drained and flushed-to replace
head gaskets and thermostats. These are the two most common causes
for overheating.

Finally, always check the coolant level and, in cold climates,
check the level of freeze protection your coolant offers. Testing
laboratories can evaluate coolants and give an indication of system
wear and other problems before they get out of hand. This type
of testing is called "cool scan."

Step 7: Dont forget the rest of the equipment

Finally, remember that the engine is only part of the equipment.
Gearboxes and drive trains also have special needs for seasonal
storage. These components are often sealed and forgotten?until
they fail. When they do, they can be as costly to repair and cause
as much downtime as any engine.

When you shop, look for features such as plastic tanks and the
quality of the fuel and cooling systems. These are often-overlooked
aspects, but making the right choices could save you a lot of
maintenance expense down the road.

Seasonal Maintenance Tips

For proper long-term storage:

* Choose a shaded, cool storage site

* Keep metal fuel tanks full, but drain plastic fuel tanks

* For 4-stroke engines, drain the carburetor bowls

* For 2-stroke engines and those with fuel injection, use chemical
additives (fuel stabilizers) instead of draining the carburetor

* Be especially wary of storing reformulated gasoline, which can
absorb water directly from a humid atmosphere.

To repair rusted or varnished fuel tanks:

* Shake BBs and parts cleaner in the tank to remove debris

* Use a fuel-tank sealer to repair any pitting on the inside of
the fuel tank