Station / Estación # 94: Tepito

Others have cautioned me to be on guard for upcoming MCM Project visits to Iztapalapa and Pantitlán.

However, in terms of both quantity and seriousness those warnings pale into absolute and utter insignificance (slink sulkily into sombre shadows) when compared to what I’ve been told about Tepito.

Over and over I’ve been told things along the lines of;

‘Don’t go alone’.

‘Leave all your money at home.’

‘As soon as they see you have blue eyes, they’ll be after you.’

It was just yesterday, in fact, that I received the last of the warnings above. The ominous prediction came from my Juanacatlán friend Alejandro.

He prefaced it by saying something like (remember he was somewhat under the weather) ‘ Around here we are all brothers but over there it is every man for himself.’

So, when I woke up this morning I found that I couldn’t bear the suspense any longer. Curiosity had got the better of me. I made up my mind.

Today I go to Tepito.

PART II: WHAT I ENCOUNTERED ON ONE PARTICULAR DAY.

TUESDAY APRIL 3 2012

I exit the station in the normal fashion, one stride after another. So far so good.

I look to the right. Shady characters conducting a street side drug deal.

Hmmm.

I look to the left. A youth writhes on the pavement in agony, a victim of a stab wound or bullet penetration?

Not boding well.

And then, having already spotted my foreignness, a trio of heavies before me and closing in fast.

HANG ON A MOMENT! REWIND! REWIND!

Look, I don’t want to say that Tepito is a completely safe place and doesn’t have more underlying social and criminal problems than any other given neighbourhood.

Reputations are usually founded in at least some element of fact.

However, I certainly don’t want to perpetuate any false negative perceptions or misconceptions either.

So, take two – the truth.

Some street art. Rubbish and old clothes strewn on an overpass.

I wandered over to a little plaza with some interesting murals.

There I met local identity Luis Arevalo Venegas – Shoemaker forever. Born and bred in Tepito. 71 years strong.

Only now, googling his name, do I get a better idea of just how well known in and around Tepito he is.

Luis is the director of ‘Red de Espacios Culturales en Tepito‘ (Network of Tepito Cultural Spaces) which brings artistic and cultural activities as well as other services such as cut-price hairdressing to the public spaces of Tepito.

He also runs a puppet workshop for disadvantaged children. You can watch a video of one of the workshops here.

Busy man. Passionate man. He invited me back for a guided tour of the area. Very happy to have met him. Thank you Luis.

Tepito is well known for its elaborate street markets selling, well, what don’t they sell?

Piracy is apparently a specialty.

Tepito is also well known for boxing. Indeed the symbol of the station is a boxing glove.

Like many ‘tough’ neighbourhoods around the world the area has produced many champions. There are quite a few murals of boxers in the zone.

Along the way I also met Javier, a mobile spicy chicken wing vendor. He kept a steady pace at my side.

‘How are you?’

‘Tre bien.’ ‘

‘I don’t speak French.’

‘Where are you from?’

‘Australia’

‘and you don’t speak French?’

‘No.’

We came to a halt and Javier explained the exact geographic delimitations of Tepito and handed over a free sample of one of his wings.

As I chewed away I said to Javier ‘a lot of people have told me that Tepito is dangerous. Is it?’

‘If you put yourself in dangerous situations or get involved in dangerous things, then yes. If not, no. The people here are good, ordinary working people.’

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28 comments

I did stroll through Tepito once. By accident. Testing out a new camera…not the most massively sensible thing I ever did there. I’ve been to the Thieves market too, a couple of times. I never felt in any danger. But I didn’t take any valuables either. It’s best not to be strolling around there after dark.

I never got to Tepito but I, like you, received lots of mixed advice. Some people said “never go there” others said “eh, its not so bad”. Generally most people said keep your wits about your and don’t flash cash around which is pretty solid advice for everywhere really. I have heard you can buy absolutely anything there.

Reblogged this on MEXICO CITY METRO PROJECT and commented:
Turned out that my visit to Tepito and subsequent blog entry was the most read/viewed of all the stations that I visited so 5 months on here it is at the top of the page again!

Thanks for liking my blog. I enjoyed what you wrote about your visit to Tepito. Definitely the scene could be repeated all around the world, and Javier’s comment is so true!
I like how you wrote the story in two languages.

With my Mexican friends in DF, the word “Tepito” never arises in conversation unaccompanied by many warnings of why not to go there. Rumor has it they’ll rob you of everything down to your undershorts. But as with all such rumors, it’s probably overstated.

Saludos,

Kim G
Boston, MAWhere people have an overwrought sense of what exactly “dangerous” is.

I went to Tepito with a friend two days ago (we’re both Australians) and we were robbed at knifepoint 5 minutes after entering the market area. We are both very seasoned travellers who don’t go around dressed like tourists, flashing cameras or money around, etc. The robbery happened in broad daylight (noon) in front of many stall holders and bystanders. He only wanted our mobiles – which we handed over, obviously.
So obviously experiences vary. I would go back, but only with Mexican friends.

Of course experiences vary. Sorry to hear about your visit. Apart from the day I visited for my metro project I was probably there around 8 or 9 times, alone every time except for once. I never had any problems.

I found myself in Tepito almost by accident once. The Sunday street stalls northeast of the Centro Historico go on forever, and when I finally saw a street sign, I checked my map later that night which confirmed, sure enough there I was. I entered by foot; have never gone by metro. Told my friends later where I had been and they seemed surprised I wasn’t killed. (Honestly, it didn’t *feel* dangerous, but I’ve been chastised to never go there alone again, as lightning doesn’t strike twice.)

I hear that nearby Lagunilla has an antique market on Sunday mornings…have you been?

I’ve been in Tepito at least 10 times, most of the time alone – all during the day and have never felt threatened in any way. Recently I went on ‘safari en tepito’, a tour/play which was part of the centro historico festival- great insights into the neighbourhood. I haven’t been to the Lagunnilla antique market yet – will check it out sometime – saludos!

Thanks for the comment. Shopping is obviously the big drawcard for people – what can’t you get there? Safety in numbers you’re right, though I have mostly gone alone. There are plenty of people about, as you say the case for females is different to males, unfortunately.

You don’t want to go there, the way it is right now. Even the police don’t. Global travel rule #1-avoid places avoided by the police.
I know the owner of this blog he is a wanker who has never actually been to tepito. He’s visited the outskirts and that’s it.

As you recently read in my blog, I accidentally wandered into Tepito not knowing what it was, without any problems. My Mexican friends were pretty shocked at this, especially the young security guard who was from there working at my hostel. I asked him if I could go back alone, and he said no, but that he would take me during the day some time. While that never happened, I think it’s worth mentioning that a pretty tough looking dude from that area advised me not to go back. Glad to hear you had a good experience too. I loved this post man, very interesting! Thanks for the like!

Thanks for the comment. Tepito is a vexed place. Many Mexicans would never go there. Bad reputations come about for a reason. I’ve been there quite a few times without problems. Around the metro area the streets are full of people and packed with vendors – a lot of people around generally makes me feel safe. Wandering into less crowded streets and of course frequenting the area at night is not wise or advised. Bad things can happen anywhere and anytime – the probability seems to be higher in this area. All in all it’s an intriguing place – glad you enjoyed Mexico City and best luck for the future – I’ll check out your blog some more, cheers