Thanks guys. I promise, if I could have gotten black paint I would have. All they had in stock at the time was silver, which was good enough to use on the master cylinders. I'll just have to see how they look on the car I suppose, but I don't think they're too bad.

Your Master Cylinders will look great Jared but I am curious...... Are the Master Cylinders identical to each other ?If so are they interchangeable ?I've owned 5 Mini variants over the years (a 1960 Austin 7 ; a 1962 Austin Cooper 997 ; a 1963 Riley Elf Mk.I ; a 1965 Morris Cooper 998 &a 1965 Morris Cooper S ) They all had the same feature where the master cylinders were concerned in that the clutch Master Cylinder wasconsiderably smaller than the brake unit. I've often wondered why this was so - do you or does anyone know why ?David2010.

In regards to the mater cylinders, there are many different ones. The first ones, up until about the mid '60s, had a larger bore than the second version, whether this was for both the brake and the clutch master cylinders, or just the brakes, I can't say. With the second version, like these, the bores were identical, but there were differences. For one, the mounting plate on the clutch master cylinder was smaller than the brake version. Also, the casting at the top, where the pipe connects, was shaped differently (can probably see this in the recent picture I put up). Lastly, from what I can see, the cylinders are made differently so as to sit facing different angles in the engine bay. So, to hazzard a guess. I'd say they aren't interchangeable, for the small differences I pointed out above.

The only size difference I know of on the earlier cars is the brake having a larger capacity over the clutch, like so :

Not much to report of late. Got a small package from my Minispares postman with oil seals and rear side window seals that I wasn't able to get before. Just waiting on wheelbearings though, the Timken suppliers didn't have stock to send here to Kokstad, should hopefully get those this week and finish up the front subframe etc with brakes. Then to spray the engine bay and finally get her back on four wheels again.

Swapping over to Clubman window winding mechanisms, as the originals are incredibly stiff, even after a de- and re-grease. Hoping that these work now, the only difference is the actual drive, mine being the square the the Clubman the hexagonal shape.

Finally have the doors complete. The Clubman mechanisms didn't seem to work well, pushing the window up at an angle, not matter what I did. So, two days of intense cleaning and degreasing were wasted on items that won't be used, but hey ho, at least they'll be ready at a later stage for other projects. I then reverted back to the original mechanisms from the car, found they had been placed on incorrect sides (previous owner at fault). This helped with the "up" movement, not having to force them anymore. With a proper clean and grease like with the other pair, they now work perfectly.

There arn't many here either! I used to have a pair to "Bend" the light to the right to avoid blinding oncoming traffic in France. I sold them when I changed my car as they said they would either melt to the new lights or let them get so hot it blew the bulb filament!

_________________Club member no 0199I'm perfectly sane, the voices said so.