BIABrewer.infoFounded by the pioneers of Single-Vessel All-Grain (SVA) Brewing2018-08-13T23:28:08+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/app.php/feed2018-08-13T23:28:08+08:002018-08-13T23:28:08+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4072&p=60714#p60714That seems to be the best answer involving flavor leftovers for this thread.Storage of that remaining starter under wort/beer or washed is another choice discussed at that link. When preparing for the next brew, make another large starter and subdivide again. Repeat as desired. 12 generations is quite a lot, but as long as it works....I think your homebrew group's advisor/sage may have also demonstrated how hops can suppress growth of undesired bugs, but then his starter has that carry-over flavor and we are back to the original question of this thread. So many choices involved.

There is a ton of excellent information hidden in all the different posts and answers on this site. I would start in the BIAB for new brewers section, even if you have considerable brewing experience. It would be the place to start, and good place to come back and re-review again as time goes along. Other pages have good additional info for sure...

]]>2018-08-13T21:49:32+08:002018-08-13T21:49:32+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=119&p=60712#p60712First time All Grain ,and therefore first time BIAB, here. I've done many home brew kits and so have the basic equipment. Now looking to buy bigger pots , make a big bag and possibly a buy a large coolbox.Great site I look forward to learning from you guys and contributing where I can.

]]>2018-08-13T13:01:02+08:002018-08-13T13:01:02+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=119&p=60711#p60711I live in NSW on the Central Coast

I found the site thru a Podcast the other day as ive been listening and watching lots of BIAB content.

This site looks awesome, not a very big forum type guy, get lots of ideas thru youtube and FB.

I was a rough as guts can brewer when i was younger because of cost and bang for your buck, then did can brewing but into kegs later as i got lazier. Stared doing can brewing but with better ingredients and a bit of temp control.

I work for myself in refrigeration.

I have a 40L Urn on order with some accessories and im hoping to do BIAB with a smash type recipe and "no chill", starting to get my old post mix kegs out and clen them up ready for better beer and less cleaning.

]]>2018-08-13T08:19:39+08:002018-08-13T08:19:39+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4075&p=60710#p60710I have been adding loose hops to my no chill cube, and it’s remains sealed until I want to ferment it.

Once sealed, you commonly let the cube naturally cool down to ambient temp which takes around 24-36 hours, or you can throw the cube into a swimming pool for example where it sinks to the bottom and can reach 20-25 degrees in about 30 min.

You can apparently store wort like this almost indefinitely as there is no air and it’s sterile. It’s the same process as how they make fresh wort kits.

I think loose hops in a cube that will be shelved are probably a bad idea.

It certainly speeds up the brew day if you no chill to a cube after the boil as that’s the end of it. Job done - Come back later. You just need to be aware of how it affects your bitterness and hop schedule.

]]>2018-08-13T07:00:35+08:002018-08-13T07:00:35+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4072&p=60709#p60709I spent several hours today researching and in many cases re-reading articles read years ago. Marshall from the Brulosophy blog has an interesting angle to yeast harvesting, based upon research as well, that is simple and I’m going to try in the future (next time I buy new yeast). http://brulosophy.com/methods/yeast-harvesting/ It doesn’t use harvesting off yeast cake, rather making an extra big starter at the start before fermenting your beer and saving a portion of that for future brews. And with new brews again make a large starter and split it for the future. This appears to take care of some of the issues related to different yeast harvesting techniques.

]]>2018-08-13T01:22:15+08:002018-08-13T01:22:15+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4075&p=60708#p60708I can’t say for certain but if you added hops at end of the boil - still boiling...but then stop boiling - bitterness is supposed to stop being added (isomerized) into wort when temperature drops to around 170 deg F / 76 deg C. But I use an immersion chillerand have never no-chilled, and pull out the hop bag before transferring to the fermenter.

You report having had undrinkable bitter beer after late hops that sat in the no-chill container. I would need lots more detail to take a stab at what went on there... Can you pull hops out before no- chilling the wort? Or at a very minimum, after several hours and the wort has cooled, pull the hop bag out? That would seem best from my perspective, compared to leaving vegetative matter in the wort for a long time.

]]>2018-08-10T17:16:14+08:00 2018-08-10T17:14:31+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4075&p=60707#p60707( As a good cook i even have a zester which is purpose built )

What i am concerned about is that all these hop additions are late in the boil (like 20 min and 10 min), and i will no chill which i am lead to believe adds between 10 - 20 min effective time to each addition as the work remains hot for much longer. (ie a 30 min addition becomes a 45-50 min addition)

One option would be to drop the cube in the 13 degree swimming pool, which from experience will drop it to 25 degrees in 30 min.But if i let it sit overnight from 90+ degrees - I am worried it will become terribly bitter like my previous brew ? Last time i had about 50g of aroma hops in the cube and the result was undrinkable beer, after having boiling wort poured on then and then sealed for 24 hours.

]]>2018-08-09T23:02:36+08:002018-08-09T23:02:36+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=4075&p=60706#p60706 . (Saw your post in the other thread. Sorry to see that batch ditched but hopefully the Berliner will be excellent.)

Very long day today (and the same goes for pretty much the next seven days) but let's see if I can go through your recipe plan while my brain has some synapses still firing correctly.

The Style

You are certainly picking some advanced styles to brew .

Got to Blasta Brewery in Burswood. They have some hugely grapefruit beers on tap atm. I've never seen it so pronounced. Nev from Online Brewing Supplies is associated with Blasta and so will know the recipes or techniques they are using so it would be worth having a chat to him. (Buy some stuff from him to make his time worth his while).

I attempted to brew a Sculpin IPA a few years back with Sarah but it was nothing special from memory so my comments below won't look at the recipe ingredients or the methodology, I'll just be checking through your BIABAcus...

- Change your boil time and mash times to 90 minutes (Perth water is really unpredictable so the 90 min boil will do no harm.) Search for a thread called "Mash Gravity Figures needed for BIABacus," and that should have some info on why a 90 minute mash is going to be safer on most grain bills.

- Good decision on the acid malt. You can't use someone else's quantities on acid malt as thee water could be completely different from yours. pH adjustment is an intermediate step in all-grain and you need a tool or two before you can make adjustments correctly. Leave pH until later down the track. (Or, if you visit Nev, he is right into pH.)

- Another good question on the, "batch size." I've had a look at the numbers and there is enough detail from the original recipe for me to conclude that the "batch size" in the recipe you are copying does mean, "Volume of Ambient Wort." That's great as it is very difficult, often impossible to determine VAW from a published recipe.

- DELETE: - In section D, delete the 46.8 on the second line. The reason for this is that the author has not indicated what IBU method they are using or the software. Search posts written by me that include the words: Garetz, Tinseth, Rager and Beersmith and you'll find a post or two with a picture that explains this problem.

- Looks like you are having a few problems other problems in in Section D. The left hand side is not matching that of the original recipe. Some additions are missing and your weights don't match the original. I'll fix that, the 60 minute problem and a few other things mentioned below in the file I'll attach to this post.

- The original recipe uses too much whirfloc and it is added at the wrong time.

- Just skimming the original source and I see that it's one of those recipes I mentioned in the other thread, a recipe someone has published before they have actually brewed it!!! I see thee are a number of comments below it but I don't have time to read them. Maybe there is some info among the comments on how the beer actually turned out????

.... Just saw that in his Notes section he has a link to how the beer turned out so make sure you read that. In the Notes section he also mentions the date he added the grapefruit and dry hops so study that as well.

- So, in Section I give detail of when grapefruit zest/flesh and dry hops will be added.

- Also try and work out what he means by grapefruit zest/flesh as they are two different things.

- I've also changed BIABrewer Link and Recipe Credits in Sections A and B. These fields might seem unimportant but for future users, it gives them immediate access to the original recipe and how we have discussed it.

This post only took me 90 minutes. I think that might be a record for me in this thread . Often they take much longer. This was quick as not only had you done a nice job on your BIABacus but, also, the original recipe had enough data to be able to interpret it fairly easily.

]]>2018-08-09T01:03:24+08:002018-08-09T01:03:24+08:00https://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?t=3253&p=60705#p60705Most of what I own is probably photographed already in my google signature link. PM me if interested. Local pickup only.