The Torta

With the panino's glory days gone and the bánh mì's 15 minutes about up, there's a new best sandwich contender: the torta. The traditional Mexican formula includes a crusty roll filled with a flavor-packed meat, pickled jalapeños, avocado slices, and beans that make the sandwich as sloppy as it is satisfying. And because chefs worship this masterpiece, they are homing in on the humble street food, even opening shops devoted to it. Whether the napkins are paper or cloth, know that a supreme torta will require plenty of them. JJ Goode

5. CHICAGO: XocoRick Bayless, Frontera Grill and Topolobampo's master of haute moles, offers 14 different tortas at his new shop (opening in July). The star composition features suckling pig, pickled onions, and habanero salsa on a bolillo (a traditional roll) made to his specifications by a local bakery. [449 N. Clark St.; rickbayless.com]