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The woman in Dave's latest drawing made me look back at your table height. It is only 32". For me, that is low for a hall table. A hall table is only used by people who are standing. I'm a kinda average-sized guy, and while I'm standing, my knuckles are 32" off the floor. That is, most of your table would be down in front of my knees. I like to make hall tables taller -- at least 36", and better at 38".

You got me wondering how tall my halfmoon table was so I pulled out the tape and the surface is at 32.75"http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15693
I'm 6'3" and either I've got extra short arms or you've got really long ones. I still have to raise my arm up about 4" to bring my fingers to rest on the surface. My knee comes about midway between the apron and the lower stretcher on my table. I've actually had minor regrets that I didn't make it an inch shorter. 36 to 38 seems really high to me. Just my $0.02.

I wonder if a full bridle joint wouldn't be an option on the top rail/leg joint? Or, a dovetailed stretcher from the front center to the back. Either or both would add a bit of strength. I think I read the whole thread, but didn't see details on the joinery. I am assuming that the drawer runners will be M&T, front and back. French DT's for the drawer fronts? Curved rails are to be bent laminations?
Looks like the side edges of the drawer fronts will be coming to a point,and if so, will be prone to chipout in use. Might want to leave a bit of meat there to avoid that. Drawer fronts to be bent laminations also?
Are you sure we can't get those cockbeads back? That would provide some shadow line interest on the vertical.
I like the idea of doors on the ends, and suspect they could be bagged pretty easily.
Love that SU. Wish I had another 6 hours in the day so that I could learn to use it. It is not the price that bothers me, just the learning curve.