I've had the 103 for quite awhile and programmed it since day one. I'm not sure if there have been software changes but I've never had an issue. I've created different activities with the 103 a number of different times without any issues.

Harmony software thinks the 103 is a "music system," and most of the remote buttons don't end up getting programmed on the harmony. You get a better and faster result if you tell the harmony software that the Oppo is an Oppo BDP-93, which uses the same remote as the 103. Harmony software categorizes the 93 as a BluRay/DVD player and will program the Harmony remote properly--there may be a few buttons to add, but much less work than if Harmony thinks you are training its remote to operate a 103.

Many thanks for this pbarach. I have a new Harmony waiting for programming. This should help ease the process. (I suspect I've seen this advice before. But I would not have remembered it when I needed it.)

Ken

Given others' different experience with the Harmony software, I'd better experiment. By the way, what version of the control software are you using? And what remotes? (This is getting a little off topic. So ignore if you think it's over the line.)

Many thanks for this pbarach. I have a new Harmony waiting for programming. This should help ease the process. (I suspect I've seen this advice before. But I would not have remembered it when I needed it.)

Ken

Given others' different experience with the Harmony software, I'd better experiment. By the way, what version of the control software are you using? And what remotes? (This is getting a little off topic. So ignore if you think it's over the line.)

As others have pointed out, this is no longer the case. Maybe when the 103 was first released, but no longer. Harmony sees my 103D as a "home theater" device, not a music device. All buttons are available between the physical buttons and the screens. No need to set it up as a 93.

I've been generally happy with my Oppo BDP-103, but of late I've noticed something peculiar and it's bugging me. I can live with this,but would prefer if there's someway of addressing it. So here goes...

When I am loading or playing Blu-Rays, there's a distinct 6 second lag between the time the counter on the Oppo begins to the time that video/audio are output.After this point on, everything works fine. This does not happen with SACDs loaded into the Oppo.

I have verified that there's no issue with HDMI handshake between player and AV receiver. Other inputs to AV receiver such as Roku or Apple TV do not display this behavior.

^ This is probably the new HDMI handshake that happens when you start the feature because (1) the audio format changes and (2) the content changes to 1080p/24 where the menus or disc "warning" screens may have been 1080p/60. In addition, Copy Protection is being established as part of the new handshake.

The way HDMI works, handshakes take about 2 seconds, and retries also take about 2 seconds, so it sounds like you are getting 2 retries before things settle down. There may be similar settings you can make in your AVR to simplify its handshake to your Display, too. Otherwise the usual methods apply for getting HDMI happy -- upgrade your cables and simplify your set of HDMI connections.
--Bob

^ This is probably the new HDMI handshake that happens when you start the feature because (1) the audio format changes and (2) the content changes to 1080p/24 where the menus or disc "warning" screens may have been 1080p/60. In addition, Copy Protection is being established as part of the new handshake.

The way HDMI works, handshakes take about 2 seconds, and retries also take about 2 seconds, so it sounds like you are getting 2 retries before things settle down. There may be similar settings you can make in your AVR to simplify its handshake to your Display, too. Otherwise the usual methods apply for getting HDMI happy -- upgrade your cables and simplify your set of HDMI connections.
--Bob

That did it, Bob. Wow, thank you. Per suggestion I have set the resolution explicitly at 1080p, turned 1080p/24 Output OFF and HDMI Audto to Bitstream.

Many thanks for this pbarach. I have a new Harmony waiting for programming. This should help ease the process. (I suspect I've seen this advice before. But I would not have remembered it when I needed it.)

Ken

Given others' different experience with the Harmony software, I'd better experiment. By the way, what version of the control software are you using? And what remotes? (This is getting a little off topic. So ignore if you think it's over the line.)

No, not at all over the line--I have the latest version (7.7) of the Harmony downloaded software, which operates differently than the version that is operated via the website. I have a Harmony One.

I'm glad to see that a couple of other people were able to use a Harmony remote without the problem that I had. But I know I'm not alone because I got directed to this solution by some other Oppo owners who subscribe to Official Logitech Harmony One thread

1) The chroma multiburst is perfect in HDMI1, without the more dark stripes
2) red and blue patterns are perfectly alligned in HDMI1 and always disallined in HDMI2 (every color space)
3) diagonal chroma lines are a simil bilinear here but are perfectly smooth in HDMI1

I had a chance to examine this closely today, and I'm not seeing what you are seeing.

On my 103, the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 outputs both look the same -- and correct.

I don't know what's different about your 103 and mine, except of course for the fact that you are running the EU firmware. But there are things in those photos which clearly show an error SOMEWHERE in your video chain. The Chroma Alignment wedges for example.

All I can say is that with my 103, and my video chain I am not seeing those errors on HDMI 2 output, and HDMI 2 matches HDMI 1 output.

This is with Picture Adjustment for HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 both set at the factory default (0) values.

---------------------------------------------

The EU version of the Public Beta 0827B firmware is now available on the OPPO UK site. You might want to try installing that -- followed by a Reset of the player -- to see if that makes a difference:

No, not at all over the line--I have the latest version (7.7) of the Harmony downloaded software, which operates differently than the version that is operated via the website. I have a Harmony One.

I'm glad to see that a couple of other people were able to use a Harmony remote without the problem that I had. But I know I'm not alone because I got directed to this solution by some other Oppo owners who subscribe to Official Logitech Harmony One thread

I wonder if that's unique to the Harmony One, perhaps? I'm also using the latest version of My Harmony (the app, not the web portal), but not for the One, for the 650. It set it up right out the box as a Home Theater device with all the BD features. Very strange...you'd think their database would be consistent.

The beautifull is that if i use post processing setting of HDMI2 (but the cable is in HDMI1) i can use the sharpness control!!
Only the sharpness is working but others don't.

Now i have image from HDMI1 but with the sharpness of HDMI2.

too good to be true, i never again will update the firmware

Feelingblue : that is amazing !!! Thank you so much for sharing your discovery with us !

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau

I doubt that this is intentional. I'll report this to OPPO via Beta Tester channels, but I'm afraid if they fix it, you will lose this combined result you lie.
--Bob

Bob : please, PLEASE, do NOT report that as a bug ! I feel the trick uncovered by Feelingblue is the closest we've ever been to what many people were asking for in the past, i.e. a "halfway" HDMI1 Sharpness setting between 0 and +1 (since the full jump is too drastic). I'd say setting Sharpness in HDMI2 as +16, while still watching via HDMI1, is roughly the equivalent of an HDMI1 Sharpness setting of +0.3.

^ You are correct. Picture Adjustment > HDMI 2 > Sharpness is indeed also altering the video for HDMI 1. And that effect happens even across a power off / power on with Energy Efficient selected. Good catch!

Will this "trick" also work if I am using both hdmi1(to projector) and hdmi2(to AV receiver) and set for split AV mode?

No, not at all over the line--I have the latest version (7.7) of the Harmony downloaded software, which operates differently than the version that is operated via the website. I have a Harmony One.

I'm glad to see that a couple of other people were able to use a Harmony remote without the problem that I had. But I know I'm not alone because I got directed to this solution by some other Oppo owners who subscribe to Official Logitech Harmony One thread

Logitech Harmony One using 7.7. I just set up the remote for my new 103 this morning and no problems at all. Other than the setup screen showing a graphic of a boombox instead of a DVD player, I found no issue. In addition, setting up the 103 as a 93 loses the remote control of the HDMI inputs, and perhaps some other functions I am unaware of.

I wonder if that's unique to the Harmony One, perhaps? I'm also using the latest version of My Harmony (the app, not the web portal), but not for the One, for the 650. It set it up right out the box as a Home Theater device with all the BD features. Very strange...you'd think their database would be consistent.

Good question. I wonder as well if it is the Harmony One that is having issues with programming the 103. If one does use the 93 instead of the 103 for programming their Harmony will be missing some buttons. The one button that will be missing is the one for the Option function. I use this quite a bit for gapless playback with files on several hard drives.

Today I setup a new activity to listen to DSD/SACD stereo files with my 103. It took a bit of thought so I could use my Parasound 2100 and display but still have DSD direct. I found I could not send an HDMI signal directly to my plasma as it will not accept DSD so it converted it to PCM. So I used the HDMI 2 output to my 4311 then to the plasma. It is quite a complex activity setup but it works fine .

Today I setup a new activity to listen to DSD/SACD stereo files with my 103. It took a bit of thought so I could use my Parasound 2100 and display but still have DSD direct. I found I could not send an HDMI signal directly to my plasma as it will not accept DSD so it converted it to PCM. So I used the HDMI 2 output to my 4311 then to the plasma. It is quite a complex activity setup but it works fine .

Bill

Just force DSD output on your 103 (i.e. set SACD Output=DSD). That will mute any hdmi connections that can't receive DSD streams while still allowing DSD to devices that can receive DSD audio. No need for complex setups..

I have a question for those playing DSD SACD files from a hard drive connected to the USB input on the 103. I get a faint click between tracks once when the track ends and then once when the next track starts. Is this normal? It's not a big deal but if I could do something to eliminate it that would be great. The interesting thing is when I play the same files with DSD converted to PCM there are no clicks between tracks. Is it possible in DSD direct that the clicks are not muted for some reason?

Just force DSD output on your 103 (i.e. set SACD Output=DSD). That will mute any hdmi connections that can't receive DSD streams while still allowing DSD to devices that can receive DSD audio. No need for complex setups..

Dan,

Thanks for your thoughts. I had SACD Output set to Auto and tried setting it to DSD. The problem is with it set to DSD and not Auto I lose audio when playing multichannel DSD files with my 4311and plasma on for display purposes. Also if I use DSD then it will still not allow me to use my plasma to navigate through the hard drive directories. That is when using my Parasound 2100 for stereo DSD listening. If I didn't have the Harmony 688 to power up all the components and set them to the correct inputs it would a huge PITA. But with the touch of one button it is all done with no issues .

Thanks for your thoughts. I had SACD Output set to Auto and tried setting it to DSD. The problem is with it set to DSD and not Auto I lose audio when playing multichannel DSD files with my 4311and plasma on for display purposes. Also if I use DSD then it will still not allow me to use my plasma to navigate through the hard drive directories. That is when using my Parasound 2100 for stereo DSD listening. If I didn't have the Harmony 688 to power up all the components and set them to the correct inputs it would a huge PITA. But with the touch of one button it is all done with no issues .

I have a question for those playing DSD SACD files from a hard drive connected to the USB input on the 103. I get a faint click between tracks once when the track ends and then once when the next track starts. Is this normal? It's not a big deal but if I could do something to eliminate it that would be great. The interesting thing is when I play the same files with DSD converted to PCM there are no clicks between tracks. Is it possible in DSD direct that the clicks are not muted for some reason?

Bill

Bill,

Are your DSD files in .dsf format? I used to extract to this format because .dsf supports tagging of files whereas .dff does not.

If the files are from PS3 rips using SACDextract then it is now known that the .dfs file extraction method results in incorrect file termination because .dsf requires the actual DSD data in predefined data chunk sizes right up until the end of the file (before the ID tag portion starts) and SACD extract does not pad the data to fill the last data chunk, resulting in audible clicks.

I could hear them on my system so I now extract to DSDIFF .dff files instead.

There are two ways, however, of extracting .dff files from a SACD iso.
The first is to extract each track into it's own .dff file, which is identical to the .dsf method except that there are no longer any clicks but unfortunately there is no facility to tag these .dff directly (although Foobar can add sidecar tags to be used only within Foobar. (I don't use Foobar but use JRiver Media Centre (and love it))

The second way is to extract the SACD iso to a DSDIFF edit master .dff file which is one long file with a .cue file to enable track navigation. This is done directly through SACDextract (And more easily though Sonore iso2dsd GUI for SACDextract)

I use this latter method because the Oppo cannot do gapless play back of sequential .dff or .dsf files whereas the continuous .dff edit master plus cue file IS gapless. It just requires "playing" the .cue file rather than playing the .dff file.

True that the DSD setting does not blank video. There are several factors why I setup my system as I did. Using the 4311 for multichannel and the 2100 (HT Bypass) for stereo music listening complicates things a bit. The fact that the 4311 has a low LFE bug with DSD is one of the reasons I prefer PCM for multichannel SACDs/files. So if I set the 103 to DSD instead of Auto I get a reduced LFE level of -10dB compared to when PCM is used. With the Auto setting I get DSD for the analog outputs to my 2100 and PCM for HDMI to my 4311. In essence it isn't that complicated as the activity for stereo SACD file playing has only one added component which is the 4311. The 4311 is powered up only to provide a way for the video signal to pass to my plasma. It sounds complicated but luckily I have it figured out and under control .

Logitech Harmony One using 7.7. I just set up the remote for my new 103 this morning and no problems at all. Other than the setup screen showing a graphic of a boombox instead of a DVD player, I found no issue. In addition, setting up the 103 as a 93 loses the remote control of the HDMI inputs, and perhaps some other functions I am unaware of.

Perhaps Logitech fixed the database for the 103, because I definitely had very few buttons programmed when I input "BPD-103" and had the Harmony software indicate that it was a "music system" (boombox).

I have a question for those playing DSD SACD files from a hard drive connected to the USB input on the 103. I get a faint click between tracks once when the track ends and then once when the next track starts. Is this normal? It's not a big deal but if I could do something to eliminate it that would be great. The interesting thing is when I play the same files with DSD converted to PCM there are no clicks between tracks. Is it possible in DSD direct that the clicks are not muted for some reason?

Bill

Hi Bill,

Out of interest... Are your DSD files the basic (SACD) DSD64 rate or higher.

Are they .dff or .dsf contained? It does make a difference when it comes to playback

Out of interest... Are your DSD files the basic (SACD) DSD64 rate or higher.

Are they .dff or .dsf contained? It does make a difference when it comes to playback

SMD,

I'm not sure if they are DSD64 just that they are DSF files. A fellow AVS member was so kind to convert my ISO files to DSF files .

Another issue I found is that I'm unable to use gapless playback with the SACD DSF files. Gapless playback works fine with Hi-Res FLAC files I have. Is there an issue with the Oppo's playing gapless with DSF files?

I'm not sure if they are DSD64 just that they are DSF files. A fellow AVS member was so kind to convert my ISO files to DSF files .

Another issue I found is that I'm unable to use gapless playback with the SACD DSF files. Gapless playback works fine with Hi-Res FLAC files I have. Is there an issue with the Oppo's playing gapless with DSF files?

Gapless isn't supported for DSD files yet - note sure if or when it will be.

Feelingblue : that is amazing !!! Thank you so much for sharing your discovery with us !

Bob : please, PLEASE, do NOT report that as a bug ! I feel the trick uncovered by Feelingblue is the closest we've ever been to what many people were asking for in the past, i.e. a "halfway" HDMI1 Sharpness setting between 0 and +1 (since the full jump is too drastic). I'd say setting Sharpness in HDMI2 as +16, while still watching via HDMI1, is roughly the equivalent of an HDMI1 Sharpness setting of +0.3.

Please don't take that away from us !!!

PS: Tested and still functional with the latest Beta.

If this is to be kept, and I can see why some would want it kept, then I believe that the sharpness control slider from HDMI 2 should be added to the HDMI 1 control panel. Ideally with separate settings for each which might be more difficult, but at minimum I would want to be able to access the control in the HDMI 1 page and have the sliders linked together.

The overall picture might be improved if this is fixed depending on why this is happening. If something that could be bypassed is not being bypassed, then the picture on HDMI 1 might be improved.

My thinking is that HDMI 2 (decoder output) feeds both HDMI outputs and although the sharpness control could be accessed and set as it is now using both HDMI setup pages, it is not, as this would require another slider in HDMI 1 and it might be quite difficult to have separate values for each output. In this case, the picture would not improve having this fixed. But it could be that something that should be bypassed for HDMI 1 output is not being bypassed which would improve the picture for HDMI 1.

Although I do like the sharpness of HDMI 2 better, I use HDMI 1 as the color and overall depth is better. I do like the much finer adjustment range provided by the HDMI 2 slider, but even at with HDMI 2 slider at sharpness +1, I lose some depth on HDMI 1. So my preference is to have it fixed by simply having HDMI 2 sharpness only affect HDMI 2.

Each slider in the post processing sections certainly acts in a different part of the video chain
(inside the decoder, befor / after render, before / after internal scaling and so on)

In my situation, in HDMI2 PP, only sharpnes slider interact with both output.
Nobody know the exactly reason of this, surely becasue act in a point of video chain with is not bypassed in HDMI1.

Is a strange bug becasue is not pejorative but ameliorative.
If you don't like.... dont youse! Simply.

what I'm trying to figure out is if the European players work differently.

I have a different perception of the image:

1)For my, in HDMI2, there are chroma dissalineament and this mean probabily some destructive back conversion of chroma upsampling.
Someting wrong in video chain..
the problem is that, in realtime, with same color space settings, simply only changing cable from HDMI2 to HDMI1, put things correctly.. magically chroma become perfect. I must investigate.

2) Puttin HDMI2 sharpness slider to +1 i don't see any visible changing to image.
I Have a VPR in a 2.5mt base screen, therefore is easy for me to notice subtle details.
Pheraps sharpnes in HDMI2 in EU players is even more .. fine.

Concluding, for me, the best image possible is HDMI1 with fine HDMI2 sharpness.