Once the houselights shut off and the park Muzak dims, Shamu Stadium morphs into the most tranquil setting in all of Orlando. With moonlight beaming bright, I sit poolside with a waterproof Palm Pilot in hand to record the behavior of eight giant predators floating in slumber. A nearby whale exhales. Her blowhole fires a column of vapor carried by the breeze into my face. Searching for a playmate, one of the youngsters props his jaw against the pool ledge. He squirts me with icy saltwater hoping I’ll indulge in his midnight mischief.