picked this thing at a yard sale for 20 bucks. I was told it was running when it was dry stored 25yrs ago. gots sparkcomp. I want to try to start it but dident know fueloil ratio till this site. it says 3/4pts. sae-30 per gal. is this regular unweighted motor oil or marine oil. plus the rope coil spring was broke any way to get one that'll work or do I just modify a lawnmower one? how can I post a pic of it? its in good shape.

Most of the time a recoil spring can be rebent to make a loop and returned to use. Heat it with a map gas torch where you want to make the bend. Use a big needle nose plier and/or a vice grip to make the bend then quench it in oil or water to cool and set the bend.

thanks, this thing just fell in my lap.when I seen it I thought it might be from the 60s or 70s.I had no idea it was so old.Well, I still plan on putting it in the water, it looks like its got some more fishing left in it.

Excellent find Adam!
Don't use regular motor oil in any 2 cycle engine. TWC-3 is the only oil to use in my book. I prefer sticking with brand name oils like Pennzoil, but some swear by the Walmart stuff.

The TWC-3 code represents, Two cycle, Water Cooled, type 3 formula. This formula is most compatible with modern gas additives

Don't forget to pull the propshaft loose and check that water pump impeller. Also checking and changing the grease in the lower unit is important. the seals of the lower units were the weak spot on these old Mercury made motors and spare lower unit parts are dear. Use Lubriplate 105 grease in the lower unit (Available from Napa). The brass drain plug is often seized up and you may have to fill the cavity around the bevel gears with grease and re-assemble it, bypassing the plug.Here is the link to the parts breakdown of your motor. Merry Christmas! This link just saved you 20 bucks by not having to buy a manual.
I also suggest looking at this link of things that came with my WD-4s motor. The general instructions booklet for the WD-4s should be helpful to you as It's pretty much the same motor under the cowling.

Thanks Guys!! You rock!! Your information is priceless. As far as the wizard's going,I put it on hold for a few weeks and today on craigslist I found another one same model,same year with out the lower.On mine I noticed someone had "repaired" a crack in one of the heads, it has a bead of weld on it. so I figure i'd pick up the one off of craigslist for parts.are these old wizards pretty common? Is it reasonable to find two with in 30 mi of eachother?
I figured most have met the crusher by now.

I don't know what part of the country you are in, but I've been looking for over a month now and have only found 1 wizard parts motor, minus a lower unit, in my area. The guy wanted $75 for it so I passed.

Old outboards are much more common than people willing and able to restore them. The aomci has
about 3,000 members worldwide...Michigan alone
has about a million registered boats and about
eleven million residents...the ratio has been
about the same since the 1940s...usually the
only compition for an old outboard is the local
metal recycler. The supply and demand for "old
junk"outboards means most change hands for about
the price of a case of beer and a carton of cigaretts
and usually a lot less.
Louis

What you refer to as a head is the water jacket cover...a separate die casting that fits over the cast iron cylinder. Depending upon where used and how often rinsed out they may corrode thru thus the JB Weld (?)repair.
Removing and replacing the water jacket involves
removing power head from lower unit and then removing
water jackets as a pair/unit. I would suggest you
NOT do that until you have verified all else is in
acceptable condition. As the mechanic would say
no point in doing a tune up on a worn out motor.
If all is as it should be then replacing cover
starts with making sure the part you intend to use
is same as one you are replacing. Actual replacement
will require you keep track of which fasteners came
from where, saving the old gaskets as patterns to
cut replacements, dealing with problem fasteners
and maintaining an even disposition. Length of time
it takes and level of frustration will depend entirely on fasteners...a good cleanup and some
solvent on every fastener and joint a few days
before you start may help.
I think boot with slide on is correct spark plug
Best if you can heat and rebend spring as new ones are
in $30 area. Many (1941-1955)old Mercury and Wizards use same spring. Installing spring can be tricky
if spring gets frisky...using a vice grip as
a spring vice is helpful...not entirely risk free
so be careful....wind spring up tight, clamp down
on edge with vice grip and ease into rewind assembly
a hint passed to me and I have used it several times
with good results.
Louis

i have a WF-4 motor ive been trying to fix for a long time , the motor runs great with good compression .
broke lower unit housing trying to get out the drain plug , sent it to shop had it welded up with new plug and carb rebuilt , have never been able to get it to pump water so havent ever been able to run just a minute here and there when messin with it ,
havent been able to find a new impeller to fit it so i just bought another motor and am willing to sell the WF-4 wizzard 1949 model if you know anyone interested ...

Old Mercs East Coast Marine has impellers back in stock Same as used on KD3,KD4 and KE3. The recoil spring is also available.ebay had a NOS water pump
housing on a few days ago @$15 Those who buy motors and sell parts are on line probably will have used
parts, sometimes not all that expensive if not a
sought after cosmetic item.
Louis