Ultimate Compound works well on any surface,its just knowing how to use it , in terms of technique, machine speed and polishing pad type. I have used Ultimate Compound on all paint types with very good results.

I had almost the EXACT problem with Ultimate Compound (similar car, black paint also). Ultimate Compound apparently does not always finish perfectly well by itself on softer paints, even when working by machine. For softer paints, it sometimes leaves a very mild haze, which is only revealed when doing an IPA wipedown. I had to follow up with a milder product to get any residual haze out.

Don't get me wrong, most of the time it does finish perfectly by itself, even by hand (with sufficient patience and working time obviously when working by hand). But not on every paint type. In cases where it doesn't, just follow up with a milder product for finishing.

Hmm, come to think of it I usually always follow with milder polish after. Thus far whenever I've used the compound I did Griot's Polish 3 then 4 after or Polish 3 and SRP. That being said, only recently started using the Ult Compound though. I'll see if I have those problems later.

I had almost the EXACT problem with Ultimate Compound (similar car, black paint also). Ultimate Compound apparently does not always finish perfectly well by itself on softer paints, even when working by machine. For softer paints, it sometimes leaves a very mild haze, which is only revealed when doing an IPA wipedown. I had to follow up with a milder product to get any residual haze out.

Don't get me wrong, most of the time it does finish perfectly by itself, even by hand (with sufficient patience and working time obviously when working by hand). But not on every paint type. In cases where it doesn't, just follow up with a milder product for finishing.

What type of machine , pads u were using when you was working on he black car ?

I wouldn't recommend this. AG themselves say if you're putting anything on top, use the SRP not UDS because the UDS will not allow it to bond well and last right? So unless you want to end your work at the UDS, it might not be the best idea. DSM you ever tested this?

I do agree however with using a dedicated glaze in place of the SRP if you're going to use Polish 3 anyway. On many forums people seem to like the Mirror glaze. Haven't tried it myself yet though.Which brings me to another question : If you want to hide swirls, why not just leave out the pure polish? And if you wanted to remove swirls with polish then why would you need a filler after? Unless of course you want to remove some and not all, then fill the rest, which, unless some are very deep, just makes no sense I think. If it's all removeable swirls then just remove them if you're breaking out the Polish 3 and machine anyway.

I wouldn't recommend this. AG themselves say if you're putting anything on top, use the SRP not UDS because the UDS will not allow it to bond well and last right? So unless you want to end your work at the UDS, it might not be the best idea. DSM you ever tested this?

Yes.

I've topped UDS with Mothers Pure Carnauba (no cleaners).

No issues. Still getting about a solid 2 months with Mothers Carnauba (as I used to before).

UDS fills alot better than SRP - there's no mixing matters about it. The main problem is that it's harder to use.

Check the DW forums, the AG rep there admits that UDS can be topped, but it needs enough time to "sit", and you need to ensure that there's no streaking/hazing on the surface. Since that haze comes from glazing oil accumulation, and those areas don't bond well with wax.

It's also why AG puts a note at the back of every UDS bottle to buff a SECOND time, even after removal (so as to remove streaking).

Quote:

What type of machine , pads u were using when you was working on he black car ?

Borrowed a Griots DA, used orange pad. Stopped after 5 mins due to results aforementioned. NEVER used it on the car via machine again. Area was a section of the rear bumper behind the rear wheel (test spot)

Applied after with a Megs Foam applicator on another test spot - same thing. Worked it by hand into paint until the compound was barely visible (about 2-3 mins per 12x12 inch area).

Keep in mind this was only on ONE car. Other cars I used it on, it worked flawlessly.

Interesting. Thanks for that UDS info there. I know it's a better filler than the SRP, but never tried it with overlaying wax since it wasn't recommended. Maybe I'll give it a try sometime with the HDwax. Will also leave it a few hours or put the wax the next day.

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