56 F-100 Big Window Fordomatic

I would soak all the rust down good with Ospho. When that drys black with a white powder than wire wheel it clean. Then do the rust repair.

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Hello again. Its been months since I posted! But there has been progress! Im currently waiting on the video to upload. A first start video that is! With very little work we were able to get the motor in proper shape to run for a bit. I replaced the failed water pump. Installed a new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Also changed the oil and plugs. I bypassed the trans coolant lines and the heater core for now. The radiator is shot but holds well enough to verify the motor is not junk. SORRY ABOUT THE VIDEO BEING SIDEWAYS DEAL WITH IT LOL.

Was able to reuse the wires, just had to freshen up the ends a bit. I brushed up the points as there was a small amount of corrosion on the contacts. Had to install a new ignition switch as the keys have been lost but I saved the old ignition if i ever find them. Hooked a battery up and bang, hand a nice spark. Also the Cluster and head lamps lit up! Even the high beams work. Along with one front marker.

I put some oil on the valves and in the cylinders, buttoned it up and was ready to fire. As a temp gas tank I used a clean oil jug and plumbed it to the pump. Added a splash to the carb, got pop behind the wheel and stated cranking. It fired instantly off the fuel in the carb but sputtered out quickly as it was not primed. Thats where the video starts. Id like to add that the crossover pipe was not installed so its open header. And the throttel was a bit out of adjustment on the carb so it idoled fast in the video.

Had it running for a good 5 mins. Then it died as the fuel jug was messed up. It was late so I dident bother starting it again. All in all it help togeather well. I backed off the idol and my aftermarket manual temp and oil guage i put on for a temporary monitor showed great pressure and no sign of over heating. But it dident run very long. I did find one of the freeze plugs started to weep. And there is a leak on the transmission pan gasket i believe.

Today though i went at the brakes. I replaced the front flex lines and the brake cylinders. I removed the lines off the master cylinder with a 3/8'' line wrench and a small propane torch to free up the stubborn fittings. Be surprised what a lil heat will do. Dident break one! Was able to flush the hard lines with break clean and some shop air. Installed new front shoes and did a basic adjustment. Being that the drums dident just come off i pulled the hub with it and repacked the wheel bearings while i was there. All is back togeather with the front axles breaks. i still need to install my new master cylinder but i was waiting to do that last for the breaks any way.

I moved on to the back and started hitting speed bumps then a wall...The left drum would not budge off the axle and it was getting late so i couldent hit it with a hammer. So i was unable to get much done. That was not much of a problem when i went to the right side.

Funny how things come back to you when you stumble apon issues. I remember when we last moved this truck the right rear tire was stuck! ( Brakes frozen). So i took a look inside the inspection hole and saw that the adjuster was very rusty. Dident move at all. I tried heating it threw the small hole and still nothing but smoke from all the cobwebs and leaves. So I unbolted the cylinder and the top arbor stud? Where the top of the shoes pivot. This freed it up enough to get the drum to turn. BUT it acted like it was in park...Would only turn a small amount and then come to a dead stop. So i dropped the drive line and checked that i was infact in neutral. I was. Trans turns free. Grabbed the pinion and nothing. No movement at all. SO I decided to pop the diff cover and see what the oil looked like.

Well it took about 10 mins of chiseling 40+ years old grease and dirt off the rear pumpkin. Once that mess was out of the way I got to see what i believe is a Dana 44. So i got my drain pan and crawled under expecting nice oil to be waiting inside. Wrong....As i cracked the last one loose WATER started to weep from the bottom holes. HUH??? A quick tap with the hammer and SPLASH about a half gallon of water crashed into the drain pan! NOT GOOD! As i pealed off the cover i was horrified. The carrier looks like a rust ball. There was absolutly no oil. And it was so bad that the gears would not turn. As you can see in the pics there was standing water in the housing for god knows how long. My question is how it got in there? Im guessing maby the pinion seal??. Heres a few pics of the carnage.

I was able to get it freed up by soaking the whole thing with PB Blaster and using a bar to pry it free. So im guessing id be better off getting another axle rather then salvaging this one. For now anyway. I dont plan to scrap it. I believe with some work it can be saved. I was bummed as i felt with a few more hours of work i could creep around the property and streach its arthritic legs.

So thats where im at for now. Gonna see what i can dig up on another axle. Ive read the 70's f100 axles are a direct fit? The Ford 9"? Id like to find another Dana 44 though. Soon ill be able to send a video of it rolling around under its own power!!

As you can see in the pics there was standing water in the housing for god knows how long. My question is how it got in there? Im guessing maby the pinion seal??.

You will occasionally see that much water in the off road world. It was most likely driven through deep water or even allowed to sit in it for a time.

I realize the truck was like this when you got it, but I'd still like to point out it's always a good idea to change your differential oil if you've driven in deep water. We've even changed the transmission and transfer case oil in our deuce and a half when it's been in water over the running boards.

It's great you got the engine to crank up. It's a good feeling to hear it run, isn't it?

You will occasionally see that much water in the off road world. It was most likely driven through deep water or even allowed to sit in it for a time.

I realize the truck was like this when you got it, but I'd still like to point out it's always a good idea to change your differential oil if you've driven in deep water. We've even changed the transmission and transfer case oil in our deuce and a half when it's been in water over the running boards.

It's great you got the engine to crank up. It's a good feeling to hear it run, isn't it?

Im still baffled on this as i highly doubt the rear end is housing 40 year old water. I do agree about changing it after you sink the axle. But this truck sat in the back yard with wheels on it. Then drug out and hauled up here where its sat since. There is severe rain in the area. Also there was so much build up around the vent it could of gotten in that way. There is no wood left in the bed.

Yes its extreamly cool to hear it run after all this time. Ive heard it run once before but it was in very bad shape.

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