FIT Celebrates the Substance of Style

"Fashion and Politics," a new exhibit opening July 7 at the Museum at FIT, illustrates the interplay of fashion trends and political movements with more than 100 costumes and accessories. Curator Jennifer Farley says its organizers approached the topic with a broad scope: "We looked at politics not only in terms of the sartorial choices of politicians and election fashions, but also as encompassing cultural change, sexual codes, and social progress." While Farley says the project was initially inspired by a renewed enthusiasm for politics during the 2008 election, many of the featured items date well before the fashion press was breathlessly chronicling Michelle Obama's every move (though two of first lady's lauded looks—by Jason Wu and Thakoon—are indeed on display). Organized chronologically, the show begins in the 19th century with a pair of patriotic pieces: an 1889 costume bearing an American Flag motif and Catherine Malandrino's Flag Dress, which debuted in 2001 after 9-11, and was recently reissued in response to last fall's Presidential campaign. For a rundown of some the exhibit's most compelling pieces, we talked to Farley and co-curator Melissa Marra.

—Erin Clements

American Flag costume, printed cotton, circa 1889, USA

"Flag costumes were commonly worn to parades and pageants during the 19th century," says Marra. "They were intended to promote a sense of national identity and patriotism."

Liberty of London, dress, brown silk velvet, circa 1910, England

"Liberty of London was associated with the `Aesthetic' dress movement in the late 19th century and specialized in healthy, comfortable fashion for women," says Marra. "Their clothing was desired by artists, intellectuals, and bohemians well into the 20th century. They offered another option to the Victorian fashions of the period, which were much more restrictive."

"This is during World War II and women are enlisting in female divisions of the armed forces, like the W.A.V.E.S. division of the Navy, and getting to wear uniforms designed by the American-born couturier Mainbocher," says Farley. "Mainbocher had been based in Paris until the war and had just come back to America. It was just sort of a bonus for these women who were serving their country, contributing to the war effort, to get to wear the very best."

Dress, white cotton with red "IKE" print, circa 1956

"The `Ike' dress was worn in support of Dwight Eisenhower's election campaign," says Farley. "It's just this wearable campaign poster with his nickname splashed all over it. In our research, we found information in the New York Times about the variety of fashions associated with his re-election campaign—raincoats, jewelry, stockings—and we're very lucky that we have this example."

"The monokini was introduced in 1964 by Rudi Gernreich; basically it's a topless swimsuit," says Marra." It was very shocking when it first was introduced and it instantly became a symbol of the '60s sexual revolution. It was actually banned by the pope. This swimsuit earned Gernreich a reputation as a social commentator because it was his vision of a strong, uninhibited modern woman."

"In this suit, Tam uses propaganda images of the Chinese leader Mao Zedong in an unconventional way to challenge the image of power," says Farley. "She has said that the black-and-white design was meant to represent both the positive and negative effects that he'd had on Chinese culture."

Stephen Sprouse for Knoll Textiles, Graffiti Camo in green and brown with Declaration of Independence in orange, 2004

"Sprouse is alluding to the complex relationship between the government and military," says Marra of the punk designer's subversive tribute to the Declaration of Independence, which features a bright orange graffiti overlay on a camouflage background.

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