I want to do the anytime camera mod but I don't want to install the switch at the mirror, I want the switch on the dash. I researched the wire map and I think I found the wire under the dash. Please check my work.

Is this correct? If I were to install a switch based on this diagram would this mod work? I believe it will based on this thread here: 09 Always-On Rear View Camera

PROPOSED MODIFICATION:

FACTORY DIAGRAM:

If my diagram is valid, then there is no need to install the switch at the mirror, rather we can tap the fuse block with a fuse for +12v. Then we can redirect the REV wire at connector IN1 @ Pin 7 to the switch. It's right under the dash.

Note:This mod is for the Independent operation of the rear view camera from the Reverse position of the transmission.

I finally got the time to sit down and finish this mod. so here it is from start to finish.

First thing i did was remove the peace of trim that goes over the connector for the mirror.

here is what it looks like.

then you need to disconnect the mirror. notice the first row of wires. wire 1 (green), wire 2 (wight), and wire 3 (red). you will be tapping into wire 1 for your +12v and then use the switch to feed the power to wire 3.

this is the switch i used. i picked it up from Radio Shack for around $3. Notice that it has three posts on the back side. post 1 is for input #1, post 2 is the common (or the output to the mirror), and post 3 is input #2. your splice into wire 1(green) goes to ether post 1 or 3 depending on what position you want your switch to be in when your camera is always on. when you cut wire 3 (red) the lead that goes to the clip is soldered to post 2 (because that goes directly to the mirror). last you put the other end of wire 3 (red) to the last post (1 or 3 depending on what post is left after you connect wire 1 (green) to the switch)

this is my extensions i added to the switch

I soldered all three wires on then used shrink tube to ensure they didn't short

this is the splice into wire 1 (green). i used a phone line tap from Radio Shack. Note: if you are not familiar with these there is no need to strip the green wire or the wire your using to tap off of wire 1. these wire taps cut into the isolation just enough to do the job and they do it well.

here is what it looks like after all the wiring is finished. i used small crimp connectors to tie in the red wires. i also got these at Radio Shack.

my next step was to drill the hole for the switch and the notch for the plate that keeps the switch orientated in the right direction.

the last thing to do is install it!

PM me with your email if you want a Video of it working... i cant figure out how to put it on here.

in position #1 the switch functions like its not even there, it turns on the camera when the car is in reverse. in position #2 it functions as a always on feature for the camera so that it will operate while in drive, neutral, park... whatever

Lurkin, That's right. That's how it should work. Thanks for commenting.

Later tonight I'll poke around under the dash and find modular plug IN1. Once I find it. I'll probe the REV wire with a multimeter to confirm the circuit. If that checks out then I'll do the mod and install a switch and document everything in another thread.

Bought as a wrecked vehicle almost done repairing it. It is my daily driver

Just an FYI, A good place to find sweet switches is www.te.com. You can make up a company profile and then request samples. The will send you almost any switch for free. Its pretty awesome. They also sale factory harnesses although they have different part numbers then toyota so they can be a PITA to find.

Tonight I poked around and I have found the REV wire. It was very simple.

Remove the coin tray to find connector IN1 mounted to the front top left of the fuse block. I used a small wire to back probe the REV wire. I used my multimeter to confirm that 12+ volts is only there when the transmission is in reverse.

It's important to note that it's the left side of the junction that connects to the camera, when the wire is snipped the left side should then be connected to the "common" pole (T2) on the switch. The right side of the junction is sending the +12v when the tranny is in reverse, this side can go to either T1 or T3 of the switch.

All I have to do now is build my switch with harness and install it. Picked up the add-a-circuit a few days ago.

I was snooping around and planning it out based on your drawings and pictures. The connector that plugs into IN1 on mine has only two wires - red and yellow. The red operates as you said, showing 12v when in reverse. I've got a switch all soldered up ready to go. Just need to locate a spot to tie it in to +12v. There is a blank button hole just above the fuse panel for mounting... couldn't be more ideal.
One of those Add-a-circuit rigs would be perfect if I can find one around here.
I'll be interested to see your write up, Crom. Particularly where you selected to tap for power.
I'll send up pics when I get this done as well.

I was snooping around and planning it out based on your drawings and pictures. The connector that plugs into IN1 on mine has only two wires - red and yellow. The red operates as you said, showing 12v when in reverse. I've got a switch all soldered up ready to go. Just need to locate a spot to tie it in to +12v. There is a blank button hole just above the fuse panel for mounting... couldn't be more ideal.
One of those Add-a-circuit rigs would be perfect if I can find one around here.
I'll be interested to see your write up, Crom. Particularly where you selected to tap for power.
I'll send up pics when I get this done as well.

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I'm in the same situation: two wires to my IN1 connector (a 2011 double cab). This is the first automotive electronics project I've ever undertaken, and I'm trying to decide how best to splice into the red wire. Simply cut it and add two butt splices to connect to the switch, or is there a better way I've overlooked?

I'm in the same situation: two wires to my IN1 connector (a 2011 double cab). This is the first automotive electronics project I've ever undertaken, and I'm trying to decide how best to splice into the red wire. Simply cut it and add two butt splices to connect to the switch, or is there a better way I've overlooked?

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We have the same truck (long bed?). What you should do is get one of those Add-a-circuit rigs (FHM200BP is one), and tap into one of the fuses on the block. This will be your new fused constant 12v source to your switch. That involves no cutting of any factory wiring. The one cut you will have to make is of the red wire coming off IN1 (the plug with just the yellow and red). The two sides of this cut will feed the center and one outside terminal of the switch.
So you end up with:

I'll be hooking this up here in the next day or two, and will post some pics. Couldn't find an add-a-circuit here for MINI size fuses, just the big ones. I may have to go with an in-line glass fuse holder since I have lots of those fuses around anyway. Same difference, but I will have to tap in somewhere else for the 12v source.

I'm trying to decide how best to splice into the red wire. Simply cut it and add two butt splices to connect to the switch, or is there a better way I've overlooked?

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Nothing wrong with butt splices, they'll work just fine. However if you have some telephone taps, they are the next best thing short of soldering with heat shrink.

Here are a couple pictures of some telephone taps I used in another project. They are filled with a gel that makes the bond water tight when the gel cures. They are perfect for tapping these small wires in the truck. The taps are made to use for telephone equipment that is exposed to the elements. This website sells them for $0.10 each here