Description

This outstanding route climbs the steep arete on the far uphill end of the Icebox. It starts on a low overhang and climbs up a slab to the steep prow. Creativity will no doubt be an asset on this climb - the beta is surprisingly hard to figure out.

Location

This is on the far right, uphill end of of the Icebox. It's the third route from the end on the right side of the wall.

With more traffic, this climb will be four full stars. The crux arete is mostly clean where you need it, and the holds have been cleaned up as of the date of this post. Get after it; this is probably one of the best lines on the wall. Do not read on if you do not want beta! The bird's nest is still present on the ledge before the anchors; be careful where you grab! It has not been inhabited for what appears to be a while...another detail of note is that the arete is maybe a bit over-bolted, and the middle draw can be skipped during the send go to save time with a completely safe fall. Hanging the draw helps in working the moves and finding the holds. Have fun!!

Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small cut about 3/8" long. Luckily, it didn't land in his eye. This route has excellent, powerful movement from the 4th bolt to the anchor. Unfortunately the issue of rock raining down on the belayer detracts and I don't agree with Ben Schmitt's 4 star rating in the new 11 Mile Canyon guidebook. This climb may be unique for a .12a in this canyon, but it doesn't compare to many 4 star routes in Colorado.

Great climb! Definitely unique for Elevenmile. Mostly clean, I sent a little bit of choss raining down on my first go but only because I got to far left with my feet while desperately trying to clip the 6th bolt. I got the redpoint on the second go, and I found out just as Zane says it's easier to just climb through and skip the middle bolt on the arete and clip the next one from the bomber ledge. The fall is still quite safe without that bolt.