Treading uncharted territory

My travel across Rajasthan and Kutch had me skirting the border on roads built by the Border Road Organisation. They've single-handedly constructed some of the most amazing routes in places one would never imagine existed. All along them, which cut across uncharted areas of India, you come across funny, somewhat poetic signs that the road makers have put up. You get to read such gems --

Several million years ago -- some say 35 others 180, or even 225 -- Jaisalmer was a sea bed. Today one can see traces of its past in the rock formations, lava, fossils and, if one is lucky, sea shells that abound there. The border roads led me to discover even the mythic landscapes of India.

Amongst the most memorable roads was the Tanot-Longowal -- one with no sign of life; marked only by eerie gusts of winds. A straight road like an arrow pierced into its heartland, a trail that led me straight to where the battle of Longowal was fought.

Forts and sand farms

The Longowal Ghotadu is yet another stunning road -- stark and barren, except for the occasional mud hut where people live in temperatures that rise up to 50 degrees Celsius. Here, pots of water are buried in the sand to keep them cool and prevent water from evaporating.

Veer off the road, and you're following a group of camels to the abandoned fortress of Ghotadu; it's a stunning fortress built from mud bricks.

Then there's the Tanot Shiv road on which you need permission to travel. It takes you to the last outpost between India and Pakistan with the ruined fort of Shiva being the only sign that there's life nearby.

The Khaba road takes you past the fossils, the lava formations and, if you keep driving further, ends at the abandoned town of Kuldhara. Once inhabited by the Paliwal Brahmins, it was abandoned one night when the entire community left en masse.

From Rajasthan, the road to Barmer and then into Kutch is unforgettable.

My favourite journey was on the road to India Bridge. You cross the Tropic of Cancer and arrive at the last outpost before the great Rann of Kutch begins. At the end of this road, you stand facing the vast expanse of the Rann.

Perhaps off-road, on a camel, trampling across that immense matted blanket. On a full moon night, especially, it's magical.

Dev Benegal is the director of Road, Movie, which released on March 5.

Getting there

By air: There are direct flights from Mumbai to Jodhpur and Jaipur. From either of these places, you can take a train or travel by road to reach Jaisalmer. You can choose between the overnight and day train journeys from Jodhpur, none of which take more than 6-7 hours to reach you to Jaisalmer.

Hotel stay: You could book into such hotels there as the Royale Jaisalmer and Hotel Shreenath Palace.

Getting around: Most travel agencies in the city have private buses that roam around the city.