Just finished my latest build (my second Wilson II)
I redesigned the end plates for the Y-Axis to stiffen them up a bit and provide for an easier alignment.
X-Y Joiners help square and lock the updated axis to a stock Z frame.
I also modded the X Motor side to incorporate 13mm (outside dia.) corrugated wire wrap (to clean up the mess I made in my first W II build.)

First off, this variant would not have happened without the fantastic design by Mrice.
My main motive was two fold. First to make alignment of the X-Axis stiffer and easier to assemble. Second to clean up the rat’s nest that was my first Wilson II...

That is a very interesting power supply you mention, although I cannot think why you would want 27A on 24V :-).

I just got my printer working arguably perfectly. Although it was after I upgraded to a 24V power supply and duet wifi (used from my old printer). I also put in some capricorn tubing, and put a PT100 (RTD) on the hot end. I could replace the lite6 with a v6 body, but haven’t bothered yet.

As for the structural changes, I was considering doing up a full extrusion cage for the main body with the leadscrews and using linear guides. Although the most significant change I am having done now is replacing the wood with aluminum (having it laser cut to almost the same measurements of the original wood).

I am really liking the idea of the part to align the bed to the main frame. I might print one of those out for my next machine. I also need to do up a mount for my power supply and my box. I really like the way you put the power supply on the side and the box next to it on the “table”. Is it attached to the extrusion at all?

How do you like the bowden? I am wondering why you have kapton on the hot end. I really like the cable bundle going to connectors on the top of the X mount. I was considering doing that when I get the right kind of safe connector.

Why would I want 27A?.. Why Not?! Seriously though, the bed comes up to temp in under a minute.
They were as cheap as the 24v Chinese and had a cool black sticker (matched my color scheme.)
I did get one of those secondary boards to power the bed though (didn’t want to chance frying the mainboard.)

Yes, the box for the electronics is tied to the Y-Axis frame. It tends to sag a bit and touch the table on the other side, but not an issue for me.

Bowen and auto leveling is new for me with this build… Still getting used to it. Retraction seems to be the biggest hurdle to overcome with the bowen setup… I might go back to the titan direct when I update my first machine. On the fence. I seem to get a little vertical creep I wonder if thet’s why the new prusa had a thermistor in the induction sensor… (things that make you go Hummm…)

The kapton is keeping the insulation around the heater block (the thin cotton? paper stuff.)

I had PEI on that bed (hard to see in photo) I would never go back. Trying GekoTek now, so far it’s okay. It tends to grab a tad too much at times. I soldered connectors to the heatbeds, so I can swap them out quickly as well. If you haven’t tried PEI, I HIGHLY suggest you give it a go.