Electronics Parts

Shop With Confidence

KAWS700GQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KAWS700GQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Disassembled the control panel and replaced the water level sensor, but not the hose - bad idea. It was probably just the hose. The thing tested fine for 3 fillings. I told my friend to watch it closely for the first couple of loads, because I thought the level was not consistent? - but she didn't. More water on the floor. Replaced the hose and it's working fine. Thank you.

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Scratches in Surface

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.

I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger

First, be sure to take the washer apart properly! The first time I fixed my washer I took it apart the hard way to change the clutch, and believe me it took longer to put it back together!This time I was replacing both the water inlet valve and the hose leading to the disperser.First remove the two screws holding down the control panel. It then flips back and hangs out of the way behind the washer. Then remove the spring-clip holding the rear plate to the body of the washer, one on each side under the control panel.Next you need to remove the screws holding the body down to the base at the rear of the machine.I then tipped the body of the washer forward and let it rest on a bucket so I didn't have to take it completely off. Then it is easy to access the hose and the water inlet valve. Shut off the water and remove the supply hoses to the washer. Remove the two screws holding the water inlet valve to the rear of the washer using a nut driver. Next remove the wires to teh inlet valve, making sure to note which one is cold and hot, and which orientation they are. Mine was yellow on top and brown on bottom. Next remove the springs clamps holding the hose on. Replace the hose re-using the same clamps. Replace the water inlet valve reverse the process to re-assemble the washer. Tilt the body back on, put the screws in the base, clamp the back to the body, flip the contorl panel back over and insert the screws. Reattach the water supply lines and you are done!

Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty

First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

The movers broke both water intakes off flush with the back of the machine

took off two screws that held the top part on took the screws that held the back on 4 screws removed the one screw that held the replacement valve put the black mounting plate on the machine replaced screws very simple.

Agitator did not rotate properly

1. Removed the softener dispenser2. Removed the cap covering the clutch dogs and the bolt holding it all in place.3. Removed the bolt holding the two agitator pieces and the clutch dogs together.4. Removed the two agitator parts.5. Replaced the clutch dogs.6. Reassembled and put the bolt back in place.7. Replaced the gasket on the cover that goes over the clutch and bolt.8. Replaced the softener dispenser

Top Half of Agitator would not function without appying sideways pressure

Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remove black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...

Lid Switch Asembly broke

First off I would highly recommend the review by Dennis From Evans City PA. This was quite helpful.

The problem is the lid switch assembly is glued together and the original part came apart and needed to be replaced. The symptoms described by others were accurate so we opted to replace it.

On my machine there are two screw on the front corners of the panel where the dials attach to the top of the washing machine. I removed those two screws and by lifting up and forward was able to move the whole thing out of the way.

You should see the connection from the dial panel running down into the wash basin. This is where you will unplug the old switch and replace it with a new one. There are little plastic clips that hold it in place, but you can squeeze them with your fingers to remove it from the panel.

In order to get access to the underside where the wires are connected you will need to remove two clips that hold the back pane to the rest of the sheet metal. In my case I wasn't quite prepared for the entire frame to move but once the clips are removed the back panel is completely removed and you can pull it forward to gain access to the underside.

Once you are able to get underneath you will see a screw that holds the ground wire. This is the one that you may need pliers to remove. There are two screws that hold the switch in place but you can access them at any time. I had already removed the old screws by this point. This should leave the switch disconnected from everything and you can install the new one.

Now just connect everything back together. The two screws for switch where the lid hits. Connect the ground wire and run the the connection back to the top portion where it will connect back up to the top panel.

I would add that there are two thin plastic strips that ran vertically up the back fo the back panel that meet the outer casing. I had to re-seat these before putting the clips back on the top.

I used "Emley's Cheap and Easy Repair" book to remove,install and reassemble the machine. A lot of time was used to clean the filthy tub and basket. While replacing the broken motor coupling I decided to replace some of the seals. PartSelect got the ordered parts to me in a couple of days. I wouldn't hesitate to do the job again.

Leaking drain hose

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.