np205 slip yoke and extended shaft and bla bla.. HELP

I got some squeeking sounds in the rear so u pulled the shafted today. OOOOhhhh /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

U-joint was almost gone. Lucky i took it down.
I am learing this game and did a search and knew now that removing my rear shaft and drive I am gonna empty my t-case for Oil.. So the /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif sit's in the driveway now..

So the question(s)
I can probably just change the joint. But looks to me that the hmmmm whats the word.. the part on the slip joint that holds the joint.. ( please forgive me.. I am norwegian and learning tech english for u folks ) its a bit worn.
Should i get ( where the he** inn norway do i get that ) a fixed joke for the 205 and a fresh ujoint end ?

How much longer does the driveshaft need to be ?
My truck ( the 80 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif ) is lifted 4" and looks to me that the shaft has been extenden 1 ".. I took the shaft and looked under the 77 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif. The np205 slip shaft was 1 " longer then the shaft under the 4" lifted 77 with np203 fixed joke..

Please be patient to me /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I will do my best to learn everything about my 2 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif.
And best place is in here. Thats why i become a member..

If your slip-yoke splines and bores are good...I'd just replace the U-joint....

But what u-joint angles do you have? Has your t-case been lowered? By lowering the t-case, that may help on the driveshaft length issue. If you have some high angles.....it will probably fail again soon.....

A fixed yoke will help with your u-joint angles.....because it will shorten your t-case and lengthen your driveshaft.
That is what I did......but I was lucky to find a donor fixed yoke t-case with a 1350 yoke.....the parts can be pricey!!

It's an 80, sure it's a 205.
The 203 was never in slip yoke configuration, and those were the only options before 81.
Now maybe someone changed it, so please check if the Tcase is aluminum or cast Iron.
CI=205
AL=208

In 80, everything (K5, K10, K20, AND K30) came with a 205, with very few exceptions. The big bummer about the 80 was that a vast majority (not sure on the K30's), came with a slip yoke output.

Where the original poster is located, it may be hard to find a fixed yoke 205. Your best bet (if they have any), is to find a junk yard (salvage yard) with 4 wheel drive Chevy 1 tons (most had fixed yoke 205's). Dodge and Ford also used 205 in various years and I believe all/most were fixed yoke, and you *should* (as I have not done this) be able to use them for fixed yoke donors. I would say Dodge would be a better donor, as they also used the passenger's side drop. I'm not sure if the Ford output housing uses the same "clocking" or not. Maybe someone who has dealt with them would know for sure.

I went outside and took som pics. yes it is a slip yoke 205.
T-case is lowered. i had no vibes in it last week when i changed the u joints. i guess i can blame it on bad quality joints.. Gonna get some new tomorrow and se if the wear down just as fast...

Pics on my webshots of the case..

If I am gonna rip those joints with my 38,5 swamper it could me nice to have i fixed one..
But if I cant find one ( to expensive ) i can alway bring with me something to cap it with if it happens .

I think the problems with the badly worn joints is solved.
I had a hard time getting te joint out. With a 5 Tons press I had problem getting em out. So I inspected and found lots of grades and joints would not get into place without lots of force.
So i took a dremel multitool and worked thoses until all grades was gone and new joints would fit without having to use so much force.. So I took it for a spin yesterday and everything looks ok now..
Took time to replace gear oil in t-case also.. some noices was reduced /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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