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I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

Anybody else experience these issues?

If it is not too much to ask, please upload picture(s) of the front panel's display when your unit mis-behaves.

...
When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone;...
When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues....
My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone,...1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used forboth zones.
...

Anybody else experience these issues?

The user manual warns
"• If you select a same input source for MAIN ZONE and ZONE4, audio
playback may be restricted or video may be interrupted."

In any case try this to asisgn Zone4 HDMI to ZONE2;
Press [Power button] while pressing both [ENTER] and [INFO] on the fron panel.

I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

Anybody else experience these issues?

Are you saying that when you have a dedicated source selected for Zone 4 the issue presents or when you have the same source playing to both main and Zone 4 as playing the same source will limit the main zone to 2.0? Note also that HDMI handshake issues with cable boxes are quite common (with all brands) which is why the better configuration is to connect the cable box (HDMI) to the TV with cable box (optical) to the AVR.

Also note that the config.dat file will be 727kb regardless of whether it has data or is all zeroes. You must visually verify that there is non-zero data in the file if there is an issue with the LOAD.

I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

Anybody else experience these issues?

I have had the issue too. I have not spent the time to research alternative configurations for my setup. It seems like this is an HDMI handshake issue in the signal path. My thought is perhaps an HDMI hub in the zone 4 path may be an option to try for resolution.

I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

Anybody else experience these issues?

I have had the issue too. I have not spent the time to research alternative configurations for my setup. It seems like this is an HDMI handshake issue in the signal path. My thought is perhaps an HDMI hub in the zone 4 path may be an option to try for resolution.

Hi guys,

The block diagram of the 4520's HDMI circuits indicate that any HDMI source device's video output can be sent to either Zone4 or the Main Zone. A HDMI source device's video output CANNOT be sent to BOTH Zone4 and Main Zone.

It is a case of EITHER, OR, but NOT BOTH - so Will_MC's "1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones" hits an insurmountable obstacle if the block diagrams from Denon are to be believed.

I have had an AVR4520ci for a few months now. This was an upgrade from an AVR4308ci. I was quite happy with the receiver initially, but now I am having a problem with the HDMI matrix switching functionality, which allows the output of different HDMI sources to two zones at the same time. This was my main inspiration for the upgrade. When I output an HDMI source to the second zone (technically zone 4), it interferes with the signal to the main zone; the sound is lost and the screen goes black then flickers every few seconds with brief flashes of the source image, white noise, and messages displayed on the screen that indicate that there is no input signal. When I shut off zone 4, the main zone's signal reappears without issues. This problem is cured temporarily with a receiver unplug reset. A few days later, the issue returns. I just received an exchange unit, and it has the problem too. I'm getting ready to return the 4520 in order to try some other brand or use two receivers instead of one. I have new Panasonic plasma TV's in each zone. My sources are two Comcast cable boxes, one dedicated for each zone, 1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones. The main zone is 5.1 and the second zone is 2.0. When I swap the HDMI's outputs, the problem appears on the other zone's TV instead.

Have you tried using a different zone other than Zone 4? I do not own a 4520, but I did own a 3808 and I found some of the HDMI outputs were less "capable" than the others. For example, I had to use the HDMI output closest to the HDMI input in order for my HTPC to work at all with the Denon yet this same limitation did not exist with other types of sources. No idea if the 4520 has such an issue that may only rear its head in a specific set of circumstances. If nothing else, it is a fee and easy test.

Another issue is that the config.dat files that I created to backup my settings on the first unit could not be successfully loaded onto the replacement unit. I created two backups and neither was successfully uploaded onto the new unit. The files were not empty, with size of 727 KB.

Anybody else experience these issues?

I am interested in your second issue, although it is one that would not affect many owners. I reported several days ago that I was requesting a replacement for my 4520 because the front panel microphone jack was providing an intermittent connection. The replacement unit is scheduled for delivery today, and I will be trying to load a configuration file from the old unit. For every network save I do, I always check to make sure it is a good one (no all zeros). I'll report later today whether the load was successful.

Finally setup my 4520ci with my 5.1 Paradigm setup. I would like to setup a few speakers (at least) in my pool area via wireless and use a zone on the 4520ci to control output to them.
First, is this doable and second, what hardware including speakers do you suggest? Nothing overkill, just some good balanced outdoor speakers.

Are you saying that when you have a dedicated source selected for Zone 4 the issue presents or when you have the same source playing to both main and Zone 4 as playing the same source will limit the main zone to 2.0? Note also that HDMI handshake issues with cable boxes are quite common (with all brands) which is why the better configuration is to connect the cable box (HDMI) to the TV with cable box (optical) to the AVR.

Also note that the config.dat file will be 727kb regardless of whether it has data or is all zeroes. You must visually verify that there is non-zero data in the file if there is an issue with the LOAD.

The issue presents itself with dedicated sources. Example, trying to watch one cable box in main zone and the other cable box in the other zone. Connecting the cable box directly to the TV is not an option; all source equipment is in utility room rack, with one HDMI cable running through ceiling to each TV in separate rooms; this would only allow one source for TV.
As to the config.dat file; it has at least partial data because after the load, the input assignments seem changed and input renames take place, but still get a message on computer screen that the load was not successful.

Have you tried using a different zone other than Zone 4? I do not own a 4520, but I did own a 3808 and I found some of the HDMI outputs were less "capable" than the others. For example, I had to use the HDMI output closest to the HDMI input in order for my HTPC to work at all with the Denon yet this same limitation did not exist with other types of sources. No idea if the 4520 has such an issue that may only rear its head in a specific set of circumstances. If nothing else, it is a fee and easy test.

The block diagram of the 4520's HDMI circuits indicate that any HDMI source device's video output can be sent to either Zone4 or the Main Zone. A HDMI source device's video output CANNOT be sent to BOTH Zone4 and Main Zone.

It is a case of EITHER, OR, but NOT BOTH - so Will_MC's "1 Blu-ray player (Oppo) used for both zones" hits an insurmountable obstacle if the block diagrams from Denon are to be believed.

I have definitely been able to watch the blu-ray as source in either zone, and at same time as watching a different source in the other zone. So, main zone watching blu-ray, zone 4 watching cable box or visa versa. But when this problem arises, none of these combinations is successful until after hard reset.

Finally setup my 4520ci with my 5.1 Paradigm setup. I would like to setup a few speakers (at least) in my pool area via wireless and use a zone on the 4520ci to control output to them.
First, is this doable and second, what hardware including speakers do you suggest? Nothing overkill, just some good balanced outdoor speakers.

Thanks,
Michael

Wireless speakers still require power, whether it be batteries or AC. You are better off running wires to a good pair of outdoor speakers. In my setup, I put a Denon 2112 in the pool house and hard wired Zone 2 of 2112 to Boston Voyager 70 speakers and they sound great. I use the Denon app on my iPhone to then switch on music from the deck 150 feet away without ever having to enter the pool house. I only wished the 4520 I have in the theater had the Party Mode of other Denons so I could synch the music in the house from the 4520 with what is being played outside on the 2112.

However, if you still don't want to be bothered with wires I used to run wireless speakers off of my older Denon 4306. They ran in the 900 MHz range so the distance and quality were OK, but certainly not as good as wired speakers. Basically, you would hook Zone 2 up to the transmitter via an RCA cable, then the transmitter will send the music to your wireless speakers.
A search of Amazon didn't reveal too many outdoor wireless speaker solutions, but take a look for yourself anyway and maybe you'll find something that meets your requirements.

Are you saying that when you have a dedicated source selected for Zone 4 the issue presents or when you have the same source playing to both main and Zone 4 as playing the same source will limit the main zone to 2.0? Note also that HDMI handshake issues with cable boxes are quite common (with all brands) which is why the better configuration is to connect the cable box (HDMI) to the TV with cable box (optical) to the AVR.

Also note that the config.dat file will be 727kb regardless of whether it has data or is all zeroes. You must visually verify that there is non-zero data in the file if there is an issue with the LOAD.

The issue presents itself with dedicated sources. Example, trying to watch one cable box in main zone and the other cable box in the other zone. Connecting the cable box directly to the TV is not an option; all source equipment is in utility room rack, with one HDMI cable running through ceiling to each TV in separate rooms; this would only allow one source for TV.
As to the config.dat file; it has at least partial data because after the load, the input assignments seem changed and input renames take place, but still get a message on computer screen that the load was not successful.

It could be "POOR QUALITY" cable. HDMI signals over 5 meters would be very difficult to read except perhaps for the "computer algorithm" of TMDS. Managing two (2) streams of very difficult-to-understand data might prove too difficult even for the SIL9575 port processor.

My honest opinion is: 1) The AVR is good, and
2) You've managed to install HDMI cables that are not fit for their lengths.

I would ensure that the HDMI cables are not laid close to power lines (or any electrically or magnetically noisy things), then if that does not stil work; I'd replace the cables with better ones.

You can experiment first, though, to test the hypothesis that the problem is due to the cable(s). Connect your cable boxes with all SHORT cables to the AVR. If short cables work but not the longer ones then you'd be more confident where the problem and solution lie.

Why did the silly manufacturers impose this HDMI plague upon the consuming world when there are heaps of infinitely better ways for machines to communicate? Just the thought of this stu....ty gives me a headache.

Why did the silly manufacturers impose this HDMI plague upon the consuming world when there are heaps of infinitely better ways for machines to communicate? Just the thought of this stu....ty gives me a headache.

I am interested in your second issue, although it is one that would not affect many owners. I reported several days ago that I was requesting a replacement for my 4520 because the front panel microphone jack was providing an intermittent connection. The replacement unit is scheduled for delivery today, and I will be trying to load a configuration file from the old unit. For every network save I do, I always check to make sure it is a good one (no all zeros). I'll report later today whether the load was successful.

I received the replacement 4520 this afternoon. Swapping out the old for the new took about 30 minutes--not too bad. I was able to load the configuration file successfully, which leads me to believe that Will_MC had some issue with his saved configuration file.

The new unit has S/N 302xxxxxxx, indicating a manufacturing date of Feb 2013. It came with F/W 3325-0792-1453, and I was prompted immediately to upgrade, which I did, resulting in ver 3325-0843-4401 being installed. I didn't lose settings as a result of the upgrade, which is a positive sign. So far, everything else tests out OK.

It could be "POOR QUALITY" cable. HDMI signals over 5 meters would be very difficult to read except perhaps for the "computer algorithm" of TMDS. Managing two (2) streams of very difficult-to-understand data might prove too difficult even for the SIL9575 port processor.

My honest opinion is: 1) The AVR is good, and
2) You've managed to install HDMI cables that are not fit for their lengths.

I would ensure that the HDMI cables are not laid close to power lines (or any electrically or magnetically noisy things), then if that does not stil work; I'd replace the cables with better ones.

You can experiment first, though, to test the hypothesis that the problem is due to the cable(s). Connect your cable boxes with all SHORT cables to the AVR. If short cables work but not the longer ones then you'd be more confident where the problem and solution lie.

Cables are excellent quality. The cable boxes are in same rack as AVR. The only runs that are long are from AVR to TVs. One main zone has extra long run due to routing in ceiling, so actually uses CAT6+baluns, other room has HDMI (~25FT). We ruled out issue with Baluns by temp stringing 30 ft. HDMI across floor to TV and still had the problem.

It could be "POOR QUALITY" cable. HDMI signals over 5 meters would be very difficult to read except perhaps for the "computer algorithm" of TMDS. Managing two (2) streams of very difficult-to-understand data might prove too difficult even for the SIL9575 port processor.

My honest opinion is: 1) The AVR is good, and
2) You've managed to install HDMI cables that are not fit for their lengths.

I would ensure that the HDMI cables are not laid close to power lines (or any electrically or magnetically noisy things), then if that does not stil work; I'd replace the cables with better ones.

You can experiment first, though, to test the hypothesis that the problem is due to the cable(s). Connect your cable boxes with all SHORT cables to the AVR. If short cables work but not the longer ones then you'd be more confident where the problem and solution lie.

Cables are excellent quality. The cable boxes are in same rack as AVR. The only runs that are long are from AVR to TVs. One main zone has extra long run due to routing in ceiling, so actually uses CAT6+baluns, other room has HDMI (~25FT). We ruled out issue with Baluns by temp stringing 30 ft. HDMI across floor to TV and still had the problem.

Very tough problem. But even a replacement AVR cannot guarantee a fix, so if I were to decide, I'd start seriously looking at alternatives because it appears like the SIL9575HDMI port processor inside the AVR is not as good as advertised for dual HDMI output duty.

Just maybe, this dual-HDMI-output capability of the 4520 is just for positive advertisement, but not a good basis for purchasing it - just maybe.
We have ruled out HDMI cables from the source - sources and AVR are on the same rack.

If you could get someone, or perhaps yourself, to verify the quality of the HDMI signals that arrive at the TV end of the cables, then that would definitely rule out cable issues. Surf the net to find out what to look for and how.

All HDMI issues that I have encountered so far, even those that did not make much sense to me at the time, miraculously dis-appeared with cable replacement.

Some had their wires very poorly attached to their end-connectors causing intermittent and very frustrating behaviours.

I've noticed that I can't get 5.1 sound from Netflix or Amazon through a Roku player and a DVD player that has internet channels. I've tried a few different movies from both services and on both players and the input display is showing only stereo. FWIW the same DVD player does output 5.1 and 7.1 discs and I can get 5.1 from cable also. I've checked all the settings that I can find and everything seems to be set up correctly as far as I can tell.
Any suggestions for places to check? It's probably something simple that I missed but hell if I can find it.
Thanks

Netflix and other streaming services do not provide 5.1 on all devices. So, start by checking whether your Roku and disc player offer Netflx in 5.1. I have an older Roku that does not. So, I use an ATV for Netflix programs that are in 5.1. Also, lots of content is only stereo regardless of the streaming device.

Thanks and yes, the movies I tried all had 5.1 DD in their description. I have the Roku 2 XD HD and it supports 5.1 and there's a setting where you can choose to output in "surround sound" or stereo, obviously I have that set to surround. The DVD doesn't have a specific output setting for it's streaming content that I was able to find but all the general audio settings I have set to bitstream and automatic. I checked some other sources again just to make sure that the output display wasn't faulty and it showed 5.1 on other sources.
I' m stumped.

Thanks and yes, the movies I tried all had 5.1 DD in their description. I have the Roku 2 XD HD and it supports 5.1 and there's a setting where you can choose to output in "surround sound" or stereo, obviously I have that set to surround.

Hi DougReim, are you selecting the 5.1 audio feed when you pick the selection in Netflix (it has to chosen each time). Roku has to be set to 5.1 which you already have done and the Netflix movie audio feed has to be chosen as well.

Hey guys, sorry if this questions answer is obvious, but when gaming through this receiver in Game Mode, does it leave the signal completely untouched adding 0 lag time or does it add some? Has anyone compared lag test results between running a PS3 through this avr in game mode and bypassing the avr completely?

are you selecting the 5.1 audio feed when you pick the selection in Netflix (it has to chosen each time).

Where in Netflix do you make that selection?
I'm not sure that's the problem because I have the same issue with Amazon but I don't remember seeing any kind of audio options for individual movies in Netflix.