24 hours in... Mile End, Montreal

Once the heart of the city's Italian and Jewish communities, this district is now a multilingual mixture of Hasidim and hipsters, with local band Arcade Fire providing the soundtrack, says Tamara Micner

WHERE TO EAT Anthony Bourdain claims his first stop in Montreal is Beauty's Luncheonette, an institution since 1942, which caters to bleary revellers and ravenous families. The original owner, Hymie Sckolnick, still lords it over the tables; must-haves are the homemade shakes (order the Berry Blaster or Cookies & Crème), the Mish-Mash omelette with hot dog and salami, and challah French toast with pure maple syrup. 93 Avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest (+1 514 849 8883; www.beautys.ca). About £32 for two

Estiatorio Milos serves the day's freshest catch, from bigeye tuna and swordfish to huge scallops, all prepared with a Greek/Mediterranean twist. The white-walled dining room hosts a fashionable crowd as well as visiting stars like Johnny Depp. 5357 Avenue du Parc (+1 514 272 3522; www.milos.ca). About £100 for two

No visit to Montreal would be complete without poutine, the provincial dish of chips topped with gravy and cheese curds. Chez Claudette, open 24 hours, elicits cravings for its ideal cheese/potato ratio and peppery, homemade gravy. Deviate from the classic with the Italian, Tandoori or Bocco with bacon and onion. 351 Avenue Laurier Est (+1 514 279 5173)

DRINK A darling among Montreal chefs, the funky Big in Japan(pictured) pairs sake and Japanese whisky with ingenious bar food such as shrimp ceviche with kimchi fried rice and yuzu-jalapeño sauce, to the sounds of Johnny Cash. 3723 Boulevard Saint-Laurent (+1 514 847 2222; www.biginjapan.ca)

At the artisanale Dieu du Ciel, home brews like pepper-yuzu porter and cocoa-vanilla stout are scrawled daily on the chalkboard menu. The room is packed at all hours; grab a table outside for some breathing space. 29 Avenue Laurier Ouest (+1 514 490 9555; www.dieuduciel.com)

The cosy sofas and vintage wooden chairs of resto-lounge The Sparrow, from the owners of hotspots Blizzarts and Korova, is where the Butler brothers - of local heroes Arcade Fire - enjoy a tipple. Specialities include a Dirty Gin Martini and the city's smoothest Old Fashioned. 5322 Boulevard Saint-Laurent (+1 514 507 1642; www.facebook.com/TheSparrowBar)

WHERE TO STAY All five rooms at Casa Bianca(pictured), a 1912 mansion, overlook Mount Royal Park, a 10-minute walk from Mile End in the neighbouring Plateau area. The airy B&B is sparsely decorated but comfortable - you'll sleep on organic cotton, bathe with natural potions in lovely vintage tubs, and eat organic breakfasts with croissants and homemade jams. 4351 Avenue de l'Esplanade (+1 514 312 3837; www.casabianca.ca). Doubles from about £90

WHAT TO DO Dozens of djembes (goblet drums) get pounded from lunchtime to sunset in the Sunday drum circle known as The Tam-Tams. As dancers pulse, frisbees spin around Mount Royal Park, designed by Central Park architect Frederick Law Olmsted. Ascend the Kondiaronk Belvedere plaza for sweeping views of the city and St Lawrence River.

The softly lit Espace Nomad(pictured) eases tensions with a range of treatments, often quirkily titled, but expertly administered. Try the Lumberjack Facial (with sandalwood and turmeric) or the men's Field & Stream package, which includes Swedish massage, and an organic beer. 4650 Boulevard Saint-Laurent (+1 514 842 7279; www.espacenomad.ca) Published in Condé Nast Traveller July 2013.