Re: No.5 & Arpege Extraits

I had a sample of 1950s (?) no.5 extrait. Gosh. It had a real musky, animalic kick to it that I don't find present in the current formulation. If you can find a vintage bottle in good condition and for a reasonable price, I'd say go for it. That said, I still like the modern version.

As for Arpège, I've only smelled the 70s extrait (thanks, L!). Huge powdery floral (jasmine, rose if I remember correctly) that seems to get progressively sweeter. Good fun to sniff, but not quite my style. I'd be interested to hear comparisons with the current version too.

Re: No.5 & Arpege Extraits

I own quite some different vintages of Arpege. It is a very womanly perfume, one of the few absolutely greatest classics. My vintages date back to a timespan from possibly the 1960s to 2000s and I have to admit they are all noticeably different (age, ageing...) from rather butch (this was the only that reminded me of No. 5), but most are on the womanly side. I love best the butch and a very plush one in the black lacquered box that came in 1/2 oz (EDIT: This is the one G. is referring to!) Currently, I only wear them at home as I could not see myself wearing these in public. I have done so, but it depends on mood and taste. They are high quality extraits and the way these wear, there is basically not a single one you as a guy can't pull off. I would not consider buying a new Arpege as my newest is nowhere near the class and refinement of the more vintage. The trick is to find a not too old vintage in perfect condition (sealed only).
ADDITION: The real vintage Arpege shares the house's animalic slighty leathery or smoky base that all Lanvin classics share. Scandal of course is the one to reveal the Lanvin base most obviously.

Re: No.5 & Arpege Extraits

I totally agree that vintage No. 5 has a very musky, animalic vibe, very carnal indeed. I find the newer one sweeter, with very prominent ylang in the topnotes, but definitely not as "naughty" in the drydown as the older juice. Neither the older or newer versions have huge sillage or longevity on me, sadly. Cannot comment on Arpege, as I've only tried the newer version.

IMO No 5 would work well on a man, especially in the vintage. As I recall, LT in the Guide recommended the current Arpege as a good masculine fragrance.

Re: No.5 & Arpege Extraits

The parfum is a nice aldehydic woody floral, it must be one of the "butch" vintages, because I find it perfectly masculine. The current EDP, which was commented on by LT in his book, is not miles apart, a little bit more citric and with some dark fruity angle to it, and as LT said, perfectly good for a man as well. So, if parfum or vintage are unavailable or too expensive, the EDP is perfect. (I actually saw it once at Marshall's or the like for $25! But just once and never again.)