In which a handful of culinary brainiacs scramble, strive, scheme, surprise, and succeed

Chris Freeman serves up dinner at the constantly morphing Bakery on Grand

Oh well. I'll quit harshing your mellow, and sign off with my true conclusion about Bakery on Grand, which is that it's a great bakery, a restaurant that flirts with greatness and then often abruptly runs down a side path, and a fascinating, organic, artistic, unpredictable pulsating force, a force that shows every sign of growing in surprising ways for years to come. And I'll tell you, a pulsating force is a very interesting thing to be, or to dine within.