Four Hot New Restaurants to Try Right Now

KushidoTemescal
In yet another demonstration of its burgeoning fashion sense, Temescal has acquired this cool new izakaya, where the chilled sake flows freely and chicken hearts sear on the robata grill. Sashimi? Sure. But better still are the skewered meats (picture any protein—you’ll find it impaled here), robust miso ramen, and assorted warming small plates that all but beg for booze. The space is all hard lines, with a chalkboard menu listing daily specials that change as fast as the neighborhood. J.S. 4828 Telegraph Ave. (at 48th St.), Oakland

Les ClosSoMa
This wine bar–bistro from Saison wine director Mark Bright is likely the only establishment within walking distance of AT&T Park where you can watch Amélie on a flat-screen TV while sipping a glass of burgundy. It’s also one of the best new lunch spots in the city, a place to find a voluptuous smoked salmon tartine and a plate of vibrant greens enlivened by the bright pucker of a lone boqueróne. The cozy room invites lingering, so have another glass. R.F.M. 234 Townsend St. (near Clyde St.), 415-795-1422

HuxleyTenderloinThis wee little spot from Saison vet Kris Esqueda is as big on charm as it is short on square footage. Snag one of its 25 seats, and you’ll be treated to consummately NorCal numbers—like a rich bowl of farro porridge carrying an earthy-sweet cargo of wild mushrooms, hazelnuts, and dates, or a chorus of squid, their charred bodies tossed with chickpeas, mint, and avocado and tucked under a blanket of garlic aioli. It’s food to get lost in, served in a space worth hunting down. R.F.M. 846 Geary Blvd. (near Hyde St.), 415-800-8223

ArguelloPresidio
Located in the rustic, beamed, Mission-style Presidio Officers’ Club, dating back to 1776, this Mexican restaurant owned by chef Traci Des Jardins (Jardinière, Mijita) might best be enjoyed with a cocktail on the patio, which features a comal where fresh tortillas are made. Taquitos are a classic, the perfect precursor to pull-apart roasted pork shoulder with pico de gallo and cabbage salad. S.D. 50 Moraga Ave. (at Graham St.), 415-561-3650