Saturday, August 13, 2011

Back in 2008 I wrote about fragrances that had alcoholic notes in their compositions, or were inspired by cocktails. (for the article click HERE - in Portuguese).

The most common beverage scents found in these perfumes are: champagne, rum, whisky, tequila, gin, martini, vodka and cognac. Than you have the trendy ones such as caipirinha, mojito, curacao etc...

Most recently we have seen the other way around - cocktails inspired by fragrances.

Remember when Cosmopolitan became famous because the girls of Sex in the City drank it? Maybe this was the starting point to bring back the cocktail popularity, or maybe the Mad Men TV series brought them back. Fact is there are many common grounds to the art of perfumery and mixing cocktails alchemy. Many famous bar tenders are applying both arts to create amazing drinks, or being trained by professional perfumers to extend their knowledge in scents and aroma combinations.

The introduction of molecular mixology to bartenders and cocktail creators brought a lot more interest for perfumery.

Tony Conigliaro

Tony's drinkable essence of perfume

Tony Conigliaro is the first bartender to work the principles of science to mix drinks. Although he dislikes the term molecular mixology, he was the one who started to experiment with culinary and perfumery techniques and methods to make his cocktails.

“My influences don’t always come from people— sometimes a movement in cuisine or a book can affect me. Perfumers, for example, bring something very new to the equation,” he says.

Just imagine a champagne flute in front of you, and its bubbles are ascending closer to your face, and once they pop and burst open, each bubble will bring an explosion of Chanel Nº5 fragrance essence. That was just possible with a creative technique developed by Tony Conigliaro, under Heston Blumenthal's influence.

A sugar cube embedded with drinkable essence of the fragrance was placed at the bottom of the champagne flute. He found food grade equivalents to the Chanel Nº5 olfactive notes, and combined them recreating the consumable version of a perfume. The sugar cube was doused with the drinkable perfume. The name of the drink - Nº5 Champagne cocktail.

Tony started to study perfumery to marry this idea of perfumes and cocktails. Once he understood that the art of mixing fragrance notes to create a perfume was very similar to the mix of spirits and ingredients to create cocktails, he developed this idea of creating a champagne cocktail, inspired by Chanel's number one fragrance. It was the marriage of an iconic fragrance with an iconic cocktail. The notes of jasmine, ylang ylang and rose combined with the Perrier Jouet Gran Brut champagne brought a new sensory experience to cocktail drinkers

The drinkfactory was created inside Tony's bar - 69 Colebrooke Row to research and understand how many different fields such as perfumery, gastronomy, science, fashion, design and music could bring new ideas to mixing cocktails. Today it expanded and it is relocated to a new address and it has a blog of its own - DRINKFACTORY. Also click HERE for nice pictures provided by notcot.

And then there's also a trend in perfume events that are presenting cocktail preparation in workshops, inspired by he art of making perfumes. Penhaligons offered one - hard to understand the bar tender, but you can find the videos in youtube. The art of mixing cocktails and natural perfumery alchemy, provided by Julienne Zaleta from the Herbal Alchemy Apothecary is nice and she offers some recipes in her website.

Photo credit: MiN New York

Most of these workshops are a soiree to explore fragrances and learn how to prepare the cocktails inspired by them such as "Perfumed Spirits, a cocktail soiree" by Min - click here to see the program. The MiN New York events are simply fabulous! A must check.

Photo credit: NY Times

Ambergris in cocktails? Here is Meriton Latroon's Batam Punch recipe from the book Punch: the delights and dangers of the Flowing Bowl, page 117:

Ingredients:

1 piece ambergris [size of a grain of barley]

1 ounce sugar [Indonesian gula jawa or other dark, funky sugar]

1 bottle Batavia arrack

5 ounce sugar [Indonesian gula jawa or other dark, funky sugar]

6 fl ounce lime juice

3 to 4 cup water

nutmeg

Preparation:

Muddle piece of ambergris with one ounce of Indonesian gula jawa in a small bowl. Add two ounces Batavia arrack and muddle until sugar is dissolved. Break up 4 ounces of gula jawa, put it in a two-quart jug with six ounces lime juice and muddle until sugar is dissolved. Add the ambergris, sugar and arrack mixture and stir. Add the rest of the 750 ml bottle of Batavia arrack, stir again, and finish with 3 to 4 cups water, to taste. Grate nutmeg over the top.

My father is very annoyed about the fact that one of my Balzaquian* sisters still smells her food before tasting, "like a little child sticking her nose in the food, even in public places like restaurants!" he says. It is known for a fact that 60% of taste is in reality aroma, and my sister does not eat if it does not smell good. Smelling the food before eating was a survival tool since the early ages of mankind. Today, some people succeed to do it in a stylish way, some just don't care about what others think like my sis. But fact is, that we all smell the food before tasting it.

[* Balzaquian is a Brazilian slang to women at the age of her late 30's, as referring to La Femme de trinte ans by French novelist Honeré de Balzac - from the collection La comedie humaine]

Cooking with your Nose

Exploring fragrances beyond perfume bottles has been one of my favorite things. I would never be interested in just making perfume reviews. I love to explore this relationship between the senses, and how a specialist in one sense can adventure himself, and explore other ways to develop this interaction.

It is very exciting to me is when perfumers leave their fragrance projects on the side, and engage in different projects, such as joining the arts of Gastronomy and International Perfumery, by creating a group to produce a cook book with recipes that will tempt the reader's nose, and excite their taste buds.

La Cuisine des Nez - Flavor & Scent in 46 recipes

La Cuisine des Nez is a compilation of 46 different recipes created by some of the most famous perfumers of the world, and written by both beauty and gourmet editor - Sabine Chabbert.

Artichoke salad with bitter orange

I previewed the book in a French site, and all I can say is that it is magnificent, and it is already on its way to Brazil. CLICK HERE to preview it too. From the book: Carlos Benaim, is described by Sabine as a researcher for new molecules, an explorer of perfumes, and amateur of oriental savors. His shared recipe is a artichoke salad with bitter orange.

Heston Blumenthal's Drink Me potion & Glass vial

If you have been watching Heston Blumenthal's Feasts videos at BBC, you saw that the chef is a true master of the interaction of the senses. In the Victorian Feast episode he has developed a special device for his guests, to smell and taste at the same time a cocktail called "Drink Me", that was inspired by the potion served in Alice in Wonderland, with 05 incongruent flavors, with layers of toffee, hot buttered toast, cherry tart, custard and turkey meat (???). (The potion was drank by Alice to shrink and be able to cross the tiny door). His gastronomy & alchemy skills everybody knows already, but this time he created this crazy vial so guests would have a complete taste & smell experience. Needless to say, genius! I simply love Heston's dinners!

Mandy Aftel book & Essential oils for cuisine

One of the most famous natural perfumers of all times, Mandy Aftel, has also explored her skills in the kitchen, by writing a book with chef Daniel Patterson and introducing the use of essential oils in cooking. Cuisine became more fragrant for those who tried their recipes. Have you ever thought that bass goes well with rose? Well, according to these masters, yes it does! The name of the book is AROMA - The Magic of Essential Oils in Food & Fragrances. The good news is that you can also purchase the essential oils from her. The Chef's Essence collection is a project developed by Mandy and sold at her website store, so everyone can have access to high quality essential oils and absolutes, that are 100% safe to be added in food recipes.

Jordi Roca & his version of Trésor by Lancôme

In May 5, 2011 I posted in my facebook the Gastronomy & Perfumery projects of chef Jordi Roca, one of the owners of Spanish restaurant El Celler de Can Roca. The pastry chef who loves to look for fragrances at the nearest Sephora store, goes back to the kitchen and reproduces these scents in form of desserts. One of these famous dishes is his interpretation of the famous Trésor by Lancôme with Japanese loquats, warm peach cream, apricot sorbet with notes of rose, vanilla and honey. He has already recreated Calvin Klein, Dior, Mugler and Hermés.It all started while Jordi was reading the book Perfume the story of a murder, and one day a box of bergamots arrived at the restaurant. The fragrance coming from the box reminded him of a perfume by Calvin Klein, wore by his brother. The interest for scents awaken by the book, and the aroma of the fruits, gave him the idea of bringing the basic elements(notes) of these fragrances that he loves to the table, in the form of a dessert. Since that day he has already created 18 of these desserts.

The perfume

After the client savors the dessert of choice, Jordi presents the original perfumes in a paper cone infused with the fragrance. The restaurant belonging to the Roca family (Jordi, Joan and Josep) is considered one of the most advanced and specialized in olfaction experiences.

Angel 2011 version

As I mentioned already, (click here to read the article)Thierry Mugler was the first perfumer to create in 1992, we call GOURMET FRAGRANCES. Since than we have seen many fragrances with notes of chocolates, marshmallows, cotton candy, truffles, etc... But if you really want to take one step beyond and experience a real gastronomical fragrance, you need to try Serge Luten's Jeux de Peau and Mandy Aftel's Cepes & Tuberose.

Croissants aux amendes

Jeux de Peau is no exception for Julia Child's theory. After all, according to her "With enough butter, anything is good!". So this fragrance has at least 1/4 of quality butter that is smoothly blended with honey and spices. Than you have the croissant note evoking French boulangeries. Warm and mouth watering, this perfume is a complete brunch experience on the skin. It might sound strange, and I know some of you are at this very moment wondering "who the hell wants to smell like food?"...but I can assure you that the perfume is not just a concept, it is perfectly wearable. With notes of roasted bread, licorice, immortelle, spices, apricot, sandalwood, amber, woody notes, incense and osmanthus, you will perceive the spiciness of a blend of spices, followed by the sweeten note of butter and roasted almond coated croissant, and a beautiful flower bouquet, that changes this fragrance from unisex to momentarily feminine. The touch of skin, the sensuality, the smell of French treats, triggers the natural human drive for high energy foods (the butter and croissant) and once you start to smell your arm, it will be very hard to move the nose into another direction. The first time I wore this perfume, I constantly sniffed my arm like a dog sniffing a place where other animals left their odors. It was crazy, even awkward at some point, but very pleasant.You will find Serge Lutens fragrances at my favorite online shop Essenza Nobile by clicking on his name.

Italian Porcini mushrooms

Another Gastronomic (and here I will not call it gourmet, but gastronomic instead) is Cepes & Tuberose EDP by Aftelier Perfumes (Mandy Aftel). It is one of the most exquisites fougère fragrances that I have ever tried in my life. Specially because I have never thought that mushrooms can be blended with tuberoses, and surprisingly it results in a scent that I have known all my childhood - the smell of humid sauna wood benches! Well, each person has his own fragrant memories! Yes, as funny as it may sound, since I was little I used to lie down inside the sauna. Belly touching the warm wood, arms crossed in front of my body, head facing down, and nose almost touching the wood, I kept smelling the bench inside the sauna, till my dad would tell me it is time to go outside. That would last less than a minute, but as I grew older I could stay in the sauna more, and appreciate this smell for longer periods. We would go to the sauna during the summer and jump into the pool, or during the winter and jump into our pajamas, just before bed time. Cepes & Tuberose contains resins that make me plunge into my childhood in such a way that I have never experienced before in my life, as fragrances are concerned. You will find all Mandy Aftel's fragrances in her website by clicking HERE, or just Cepes & Tuberose by clicking on the link above provided.

Cepes & Tuberose EDP Spray

But back to the fragrance, you will experience a delicious note of wild porcini mushrooms, with an meaty - earthy - nutty quality that I promise you will never forget! Whiffs of tuberose will bloom from your skin. Sometimes it will standout, sometimes it will become more mentholated and blend in the mushrrom-y notes. To my delight I finally found a tuberose note that I don't relate to the scent of fabric softeners (as I usually do when tuberoses are pronounced in fragrances). There is no waxy-rubbery undertones in Mandy's composition, just a rich sensual tuberose.The luxurious fragrance of the Moroccan roses are also there. Its petals will unfurl slowly and intensely, bringing a sophisticated aura to the fragrance. But the uniqueness of this perfume is the humid sauna wood bench sub-note. Also very curious is the fact that this fragrant experience is never the same. Sometimes I can perceive the woody soil-like notes more intensely; sometimes the rose and the tuberose are more pronounced. Needless to say that I enjoy both of them equally. The fragrance is striking beautiful. A must have to all perfume passionates. A master piece of liquid art.

Now I bring you 02 Gastronomy & Perfumery Recipes that will bring you a joyful sensorial experience:

Mango Chutney with cardamom oil

The combination of mango with cardamom gives off an exotic flavor that is very appreciated. This sweet and spiciness blend gives a twist to your starters, main courses and will make your senses travel to exotic lands.

This chutney goes wonderfully with white meat and shellfish. For a more sophisticated touch, try adding a touch of chutney on a piece of foie gras on toast and serve warm bread ... A real treat!

Ingredients:

700 g of mango

150 ml boiling water

1 onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

125 g golden raisins

150 ml of fruit vinegar

250 g brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 drop Cardamom Essential Oil

Preparation: 60 minutes

Peel mangoes and cut the flesh into small cubes.

In a saucepan, place the mango, water and other ingredients. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes, or until mixture is fairly thick and syrupy. Remove from heat, add 1 drop of Cardamom Essential Oil and mix well.

The Petitgrain Essential Oil blends perfectly with all yellow-orange fruits, giving them a reminiscent touch of the floral scent of orange blossom. This dessert can also be served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Ingredients:

500 g sliced ripe apricots (fresh or frozen)

3 eggs

60 g fine powdered sugar

2 tablespoons whole wheat flour BIO

1 vanilla pod split BIO

20 ml milk

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon honey

1 pinch salt

3 drops Petitgrain Essential Oil

Preparation: 15 minutes (baking time 50 minutes)

Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Boil the milk with the vanilla pod. Meanwhile, mix together eggs, sugar, salt and flour. Mix the drops of essential oil of Petitgrain in the tablespoon of honey and add to mixture. Finally pour the milk into the mixture by removing the split vanilla pod, then add the sliced almonds. Place the apricots in layers round baking tray or tart pan, then pour the mixture on top. Bake for 50 minutes. Serve warm!

Question is...what do you love the most: recipes inspired in fragrances or fragrances inspired in gourmet treats?

Friday, August 5, 2011

The Aqua Allegoria Collection was introduced by Guerlain in 1999, to offer simple formulas that reflect different moods and are inspired by Nature. The latest launch is Jasminora - a floral, spinning around a fresh delicate Jasmine note. I confess that the only Aqua Allegoria I really liked so far from all Aquas, was Pamplemousse (Grapefruit). But that changed yesterday when I tried Jasminora, thanks to a friend who gave me a tiny sample.

How would delicate nymphs smell like? Their skin perhaps would have the smell of amber. The lips, the smell of honey and cyclamens. The hair, the smell of jasmine. The breath, the smell of lilies.In a nutshell, the smell of Aqua Allegoria Jasminora!

Last year I had the pleasure to visit Takasago for one entire day, and one of the most beautiful memories I have from that day was to open a bottle of cyclamen oil. So delicate, so feminine, so transparent! It is my favorite flower and the national flower of Israel.

Photo credit: + Q Perfume Blog

Jasminora starts slightly green-y and flowery at the same time. Not the greens of the fragrances I mentioned in my last article, but the green of a flower pedicel (the part of the plant that holds the flower). It has a slightly lemony undertone, typical of crushed green parts of plants, like when you crush lemon blossoms pedicels in the hand.

Its jasmine is not opulent or hypnotic, nor sensual. It is a naive jasmine, with a honeyed nectar that makes it very natural. It is a Guerlain signature fragrance, signed with watercolors, as if every note was tuned down, watered to be delicate. The combination of muguets, freesias, amber and musk might bring you the idea of a heavy powerful perfume, but Guerlain mastered it to be like a veil, like a quick tickle to make you smile.

If Nymphs were for the Greeks, personifications of Nature's activities, I am positive Guerlain designed this fragrance for us to feel like flowers, therefore Nymphs.

One more thing to add - Guerlain mastered to do what François Demarchy did not with Escale aux Marquises! Bravo!!!

Thursday, August 4, 2011

It is not a secret that I love powdery fragrances and that iris is my favorite note. That said, is it possible not to love the newest Chanel launch?

Chanel Nº19 Poudré is a flanker of the original fragrance launched by the brand in the 70's. The modern version is a part of Les Exclusifs de Chanel Jersey with notes of neroli, galbanum, jasmine, iris, white musk, vetiver and tonka beans. It is supposed to be another green-ish like many recent launches in the market, and in fact it is green for the first 05 seconds. A combination of green notes of galbanum with a mineral, gray, wet cement note that reminds me of Untitled by Margiela. The iris notes are fantastic, brilliant, amazing. Chanel's at its prime quality standards.That said, the development of the fragrance made me wonder... first of all I have seen this before in Bois des Îles and in Chanel Nº5 Eau Premiere. It is like the Maison is taking fraction of their perfumes and developing new others with a slight difference, a new detail, a new dose, or emphasis in one particular note. To be honest, if I have to choose between Chanel 19 Poudré and Premiere - I stick with Premiere. Secondly, in my opinion what is the real annoying facet of this fragrance is the creaminess of it. I hated it in Narciso Essence for women, I hated it here. This white musk creamy cleanness is just not for me.Than I remembered that Ninfeo Mio by Annick Goutal was also a fragrance that annoyed me very much. I recall calling it a vanilla pudding that rolled of freshly cut grass. Chanel Nº19 Poudré is not a vanilla pudding, but a grey pudding that rolled on grass, and than rolled on avon facial cream.I found out when wearing in Margiela that I don't like this green-ish bitter green thing of that made me dislike the fragrance at one point. Same thing found in Prada's Infusion d'IrisI guess the problem with all these fragrances mentioned is in fact the green note, combined with creamy or pudding like scents. I just don't like it! But Chanel made my nose spin to the other side even more, by combining these two and adding the creamy white musk. That my friends made me run to the bathroom and wash the arm.So what is not to like, I ask again...hum...almost everything, besides the iris. The lack of powdery accent promised in the name...And I thought Chance Eau Tendre and Bleu were the only mistakes Chanel ever did...

About the Author

Simone Shitrit is a Sao Paulo-based olfactive designer, author & editor for +Q Perfume Blog, +Q Perfume Trends & Blends Blog. She was for more than 2 years exclusive fragrance contributor for the Brazilian Beauty site Cristiana Arcangeli (The iconic entrepreneur and reference to the Brazilian Cosmetic & Perfumery Industry), fragrance evaluator and free lancer writer for the Brazilian Beauty & Cosmetics magazine Atualidade Cosmética. Exclusive Fragrance Consultant for one of the largest Brazilian news Broadcasters - BandNews. She also gives lectures and promotes events about perfumery and for perfume brands.

As a Fragrance expert and consultant always cutting edge, she was the first and only perfume blogger to be a juror of the Brazilian Perfumery & Cosmetics Awards - Atualidade Cosmética; consultant for big fashion magazines such as Marie Claire and House and Garden in Brazil; freelancer evaluator for Fragrance Houses in Brazil; and is always invited to be present in fashion, design, gourmet and perfumery events.

With a background in International Trading, Business Administration and International Marketing and Corporate Law, she has been working with multinational companies and governmental organizations. Today she is the senior marketing manager for Orphek Led Lighting Solutions.

All the contents of this blog belong to its Author and Editor, and are protected by intellectual property rights. +Q Perfume contents (texts, opinions and pictures) and layout are protected by copyrights laws, which prohibit any use of the material appearing on this blog for commercial purposes under the applicable legislation. All pictures shown in the blog were courtesy of its owners; therefore they cannot be copied without previous consent of the Author.