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While the term “brick oven” conjures up images and expectations of authentic Italian cuisine, East Side Brick Oven Pizza is proof that it is no guarantor of the sublime. While this pizzeria proffers passable pies with the usual toppings, the results are none too memorable. That said, the décor is nicer than most, with beige-painted walls, wood-framed mirrors, rust-colored tile floors, and wall lamps with tulip-shaped opaque-glass shades. Out back, there’s a spacious patio in a mammoth Art Deco–style courtyard appointed with faux-marble tables and rattan chairs. It’s a gathering spot for nannies shepherding their hungry wards and for canoodling teenagers with no place else to canoodle. The regular pizza slice is unremarkable. Instead, the ten-inch individual size is the way to go, with an extra-crispy crust. Topping-wise, the Manhattan Special pie sports sun-dried-tomato slivers, which boost the flavor quotient. The Italian specialty entrées are a disaster, from the soupy lasagne with little identifiable cheese or meat, to the eggplant Parmigiana, where the mushy breading overwhelms the meager vegetable slices.
— Michael Anstendig