Galleries

Inca Trail Journal

Below is the story of my experience on the Inca Trail with some of my favorite photos. This was the best experience of my life. The trail really pushed me physically and mentally. In this gallery, I do my best to orient you on the trail and give you a feel for what I experienced. This journal might make some of the other pictures in my other gallery make more sense.
I'm sure I'll be revising some of the typos people find and adding pictures and stories...but for now this is it.
Last Edit:9/8/09

The night before the hike, David, Tara, Priya, Chris and I went to Llama Path Headquarters for orientation. We were greeted by our tour guide, Casiano and 3 new faces that would be in our hiking group. Erik and Gretchen....from San Francisco! and Nami Kinoshita from Tokyo, Japan. We were delighted to have such a small group. We got to know each other well during this trip.

The arrows drawn above in pen are my notes from orientation. They represent the campsites we would be sleeping at. Llama Path set up the tour so we would be pushed to the limits the second day...going over two passes before our third campsite. We would be slightly staggered from other campers at sites where supposedly less campers would stay, but more importantly, the itinerary would set us up for a half day of hiking on day three and we would be able to rest before the 2 hour hike the into Machu Picchu the next morning.

David had a good rest. We had an early morning wake up call. I barfed in the hostel garbage can before I left the room. I remember saying out loud to myself, "kevin, get it together" and I was on my way. I slept the entire bus ride. Apparently Erik said it was a beautiful ride...wish I would have seen some of it, especially because the sun was rising.

As we existed the bus, the porters placed a tarp on the ground. We were descended upon by locals trying to sell us water and walking sticks. I told the same lady "no gracias" about 10 times, as she kept offering me a walking stick, telling me it was "essential". After I organized my gear, I walked down to the right and paid 1 sole to take a crap in a real toilet. Wouldn't see one of those for a while.

Classic group shot. After this picture we dropped down under the sign onto a dusty dirt road, litter with donkey shit and flies. It paralleled the river until we reached our first passport checkpoint.

Left to Right: Tara, Me, Nami, David, Chris, Priya, Gretchen and Erik

This bridge was directly after the check point which was behind me when I took this photo. I had to make room for this donkey, especially because it was carrying beer.

In this photo, look at the vanishing point. We'd basically hiked the entire way already. You can see the line in the bushes on the right side which is the trail. Along this section of the trail there were lots of small villages and houses. We passed lots of villagers with their donkeys. I think they were gathering supplies to sell.

I think this was our first real break..probably about a couple minutes. It was a great view. That's Mt Veronica in the background. I felt pretty good at this point, but I knew the hardest part was still to come.

Shortly after that great view we came up on a small village. We ate our snack here. A banana and granola bar. Around the corner, villagers were selling corn beer. I resisted. There was also a decent bathroom here. Probably the last.

My brother and taking a picture in front of Mt. Veronica.

This was the first Inca site we saw. Willkarakay. I started to get really excited. This site was grand and I couldn't wait to see what else was in store. Apparently this was a great location to protect the valley. Notice the terraces and how they conform to the hillside. There is a staircase in the middle...town square was around that mid level terrace. If I remember correctly, one of the temples is at the corner to the right next to the thick green portion of the river.

There is a small village you can see. There are many people that live along the trail. They have been here for generations. Because they live in essentially a national park they have some restrictions(no chopping down trees) There is power and I believe limited plumbing for most these people, but they are practically off the grid and only go into to town for supplies, mainly by train.

When we arrived at camp for lunch, I was tired, but I wasn't totally exhausted. I was glad to have made it this far already. From this point on, every time we would arrive at camp for lunch or dinner we would be greeted with porters clapping, juice and a bowl of water and soap to wash up. Refreshing.

I was a bit shocked when I saw this. I was really picturing some picnic tables or something we sat around in a circle....or just sitting on the ground. This was the typical meal set up. Silverware, napkins folded in various birds and shapes and water.

Our first campsite was my absolute favorite. The air was crisp here. It was cold, however it was not freezing. our tents are directly to my right not in the picture and we faced the ridge overlooking the trail we hiked in on. Only a small portion of this trail had stone. Mostly we were hiking on dirt paths. One section I recall was very steep. I slept well this night and I wasn't totally beat up YET. Before bed, I remember looking up into the dark and I could see the clouds of the Milky Way. Amazing.

Everyday we pulled into the final camp ground we would have an hour to relax and then we would have HAPPY HOUR. Hot chocolate, popcorn, biscuits and jam. It's during Happy Hour Casiano taught us a new card game called SHITHEAD. Nami claims there is no equivalent term in Japanese..."WHATEVER NAMI" said Casiano as he formed a "W" with his 3 fingers. That was the quote of the trip for me. We played the game every night except the last night.

This is a great shot of food that we would be consuming during the trek. I believe this is noodles...in a lovely pasta sauce. We always had soup...and we always had a special sauce to drop into the soup to give it a little kick. One of my favorite soups was a noodle soup. We had it all. Casiano always referred to the food in code. "Please pass the baby condor wings" (Chicken) .."Please pass the guinea pig cheese" (Cheese for pasta). Dessert was always great as well. We had flaming bananas...jello....CAKE.

On the second day, we started hiking without Casiano. He knew he was could catch up at any point. The trail started off with a constant climb next to a small stream. Apparently this was the Inca's version of "gradual" and it was still steep. The stone steps were a lot cleaner than the steps I encountered in Yosemite. On this leg of the trail, I found myself alert enough to choose the smallest step possible in order to limit the stress on my knees and legs. After a while, it didn't even matter...small or large the step was a killer and I usually looked for a small dirt path on the side where people had avoided the steps all together. At one point we were the only hikers on the trail and then we started getting passed by other hikers. I stepped up my game when I saw a hiker pass me and at the next break I saw him smoking.

On this stretch my brother and Priya started feeling under the weather. Gretchen and Erik were the first to make it halfway to the pass, the designated rest area. When Casiano arrived at the break area holding Priya's bag, I knew we were in for a long day. Casiano informed us Priya was taking her time and was not feeling good and he had to give her some smelling salts or Pisco (we still don't know what it was) to wake her up.

Erik, Gretchen and Nami on break. The funny part about this break area was we knew we still had another 3/4 day of kick ass hiking to do. The ladies in the background of this picture were selling all sorts of drinks and snacks. One lady even had a metal pot with rice and trout. In fact, this same lady DUSTED my ass in sandals on the trail half way back. I couldn't tell what she was carrying because it was wrapped in a blanket on her back and I was shocked to find out what she was carrying when I reached the break area.

A view down to campsite 1. This picture is taken at elevation 12,460 feet. The trail works up along the right of this photo. After this photo...I'm sure I turned around and started hiking up towards the pass.....13,779 feet. I was happy to put one foot in front of the other...take 5 steps and then a break. The air was thin, but the weather was nice.

I call this break point...the O SHIT point. We thought this was the pass but as we rounded this corner we realized we still had a really really long way to go. Tara had the same thought I did. In the next picture you will see the point from which this picture was taken from....just above his elbo I think. The clearing just above Casiano's backpack is the break area.

Casiano, Super Tour Guide reaches the pass after us. He was staying back with Priya. At one point we could see Casiano and Priya with Gretchen's binoculars. We also heard Casiano playing his flute. Casiano was the best tour guide. We heard more from his flute the next couple of days. It was a great motivator.

Casiano and I at Dead Woman's Pass. He's the one responsible for motivating us to get up here. Ever morning we started off with a huddle and hands in the middle...one chant "super hikers!!!" and we were off. I like this photo and I tip my hat...or Alpaca beanie to him. A stand up gentlemen.

After we made it down from Dead Woman's pass we arrived at the lunch time campsite. The yellow tents are from another group. Our site is actually right behind me when I took this picture. Notice the trail that starts at the left of the picture and climbs up the hill towards the center. That is the second pass. When I saw that my jaw dropped. I was exhausted. When descending from the pass I could see this portion of the trail but didn't want to believe it was the second pass.

This day was brutal and I wasn't even sick. I can't even imagine what it would be like sick. Chris slept all through lunch and Priya didn't eat much either. They couldn't keep it down. Props to Priya and Chris for powering through this day.

The first Inca site (Runkuraqay) we came across after lunch during our ascent of the second pass. I really like this picture because you can see Dead Woman's Pass(the small dip between the two peaks, middle right) and the trail coming down (the small bush/tree line on the right side, the campsite where we ate lunch and the start of the path up to the ruins in the foreground of this picture. This photo really puts it into perspective for me. Being there I couldn't believe what I was looking at and I looking back at this picture, I still can't. At the point of this picture we'd already walked over 7 miles, climbed 1,300 feet, descended 2,000 ft, and climbed another ~1,000 feet.

Another great view from Runkuraqay. I was the first there....able to take pictures of everyone as they arrived. David is waving in this photo. I remember I had to squeeze my pack and myself through the small stone door openings of the ruins to get to the ledge and take these pictures.

Runkuraqay - These ruins were awesome and the backdrop is great. Notice the windows that do not look out. They are for religious artifacts and idols.

Finally we reach the second pass. This picture shows a bunch of stacked rocks or offerings. I accidentially kicked one over. Between the bushes to the right you can see a small mountainside pond. To the left of this picture we start our descent down to campsite 2.

Walking down from the second pass and the fog was rolling in. The pass is covered in this photo. The path was stone, but was more gradual. There were steps, but it mainly a path. I was able to keep up with Gretchen and Erik (they were always fast) only because I was running because I could not stop because it hurt my legs. I remember specifically talking about Gretchen's dance studio and photography. Good times.

Sayaqmarka - We actually had to climb up to these ruins from the path we came down on (which is right behind me in this photo). I didn't take off my pack and I turned around to see David and Tara climbing up without their packs. Great thinking Kevin. The stairs to get up were really steep and treacherous...almost like a ladder. Really narrow. In two pictures you will see what I am talking about. In the right of this picture, notice the fog...out third campsite is located at the top of the ridge.

David at Sayaqmarka. Our 2nd night campsite is to the left...flat and brown. David is sitting on the wall right when you make it up the stairs. Our descending path from the second pass is to the right. The fog was really creeping in now and daylight was fading fast. We probably stayed about 10 minutes up here and hurried down to get to camp. Mosquitoes lurked in the trees.

These are the stairs down from Sayaqmarka. You can barely see them as they drop off fast from the right hand corner of the picture. Also notice the descending path from the second pass (middle, covered by fog). Two porters are seen in the middle bottom. They came to see if we were ok. We were about 15-20 minutes from camp at this point.

View of Qonchamarca from Sayaqmarka. I was the last one down from Sayaqmarka. I had to take this picture. The mist was heavy now. You can see the Inca Trail passing between the ruins and the lower terraces in this picture. I remember waiting for some hikers to pass into the trees before I took this picture. I had to save some photoshop time. =) The path to camp is barely visible at the far middle left of this photo. It was a slight climb and I think we were all motivated by darkness so it didn't seem that bad. When we got to camp...it was dark. The porters clapped for us like they did every time we entered camp. This time was extra special because we really really earned it.

Waking up the 2nd morning....to a great view. We would be decending 3,000 feet this day. The adjacent camp site silhouette is seen mirroring the mountain range. I felt pretty good this morning and was happy that we would be walking downhill...at least..it started out like that.

Sayaqmarka - This is the first time I used my 70-200mm lens from campsite 2. It was burried in my pack the entire trek. You can see the long sepentine wall to the middle left that David was sitting on in the previous picture. We had a great view of these ruins from our campsite. It was dark when we arrived last night so I wasn't leaving camp without grabbing this picture. I was dreaming of this picture...woke up and had to take it.

Sayaqmarka and it's surrounding mountains. Unreal. Note the stairs down by the white rock on the lower left side of the picture. I wish we had more time up there. Plenty to explore.

As we started hiking the third day, I turnedback to take this picture. Campsite and Sayaqmarka all in one shot...most the campsites are empty. We only had a half day of hiking. I believe some of the groups could hike into Machu Picchu from this point...that would be a long day.

This part of the trail was pretty flat. The rock was cracked and the Incas carved out the cave. You can see the daylight right behind David. The trail was steep beneath this rock. The left is a drop off. More on how Incas build the trail later.

At the next break the porters were waiting for us. They passed us right before the cave. They always left after us and arrived before us. Last campsite they waited for 3 hours. Truely awesome. We owe them everything. Without them this trip would not have been possible. A total of 12 porters and 1 Chef.

"no hands" - Porters race off as we finish taking our break. Look how much they are carrying. Amazing.

A view of Phuyupatamarka while we start the majority of our descent. Notice the ancient farming terraces in the middle right of the picture. The Inca Trail continues to the left and then down towards the baths of Phuyupatamarka (small squares at the base of the terraces). We would climb the far left stairs of the ruins and walk around the base of the upper wall to the other side of the ruins.

Walking down some of the millions of Inca steps on the 3rd day....notice Phuyupatamarka through the bushes at the top of this photo. My legs are killing me now.

I turned around to take this picture and I DID NOT tilt my camera. That's how steep we are talking about. The steps were 8 inches in most case. You got lucky if it was 6 inches and you were swearing profusely if it was 12 inches.

Phuyupatamarka - the clouds in this photo are awesome. We climb up the ruins to my left.

Phuyupatamarka - notice the other terraces in the background. This was one of the best views. Machu Picchu was just over that large ridge and our campsite was probably another 1,000 feet below us to the right.

We had a really long relaxing break here while Casiano explained about the trail, Inca Cross and everything Inca. Truely a great lecture I wish I would have recorded. I really hope Casiano writes a book some day...filled with facts and stories of his adventures on the trail. I'm suppose to take his picture for the cover.

The view from Campsite 3 was awesome. The river was below us and Machu Picchu was hiding beyond the ridge to the left. we would have a two hour hike the next morning to make it into Machu Picchu by 7:30am.

Campsite 3 was a series of sites set up on a ridge. They were all tiered. These were our tents and directly behind them was the trail to the Machu Picchu passport checkpoint. The checkpoint was 5 minutes away. We would wake up at 3:30am the next morning...pack up and eat breakfast by 4:30 and make it to the gate to wait an hour. 5:30 we would get our passports checked and start our two hour hike to Machu Picchu.

For the rest of today we would relax and visit Winaywana which was 10 minutes away. This was a perfect day for a half day of hiking. We were completely exhausted. Chris and I napped for an hour, then had happy hour before our visit to the Inca ruins of Winaywana.

Casiano talks to us about Winaywayna. His shirt is correct...Winaywayna is that way!

My bro and I at Winaywayna. The terraces were stunning. It almost looks like a small model behind us...but I kid you not, it is real.

Winaywayna - notice the power lines, river and train tracks in the center of the valley. We probably spent about and hour here. Amazing.