Introducing the MoonBoard Masters

by Natalie Berry - UKC 07/Dec/2017This news story has been read 6,467 times

This weekend a novel competition format will take place simultaneously in four climbing walls around the world: The MoonBoard Masters. Wannabes can compete alongside system board WADS on the standardised MoonBoard, thanks to the wonder of livestreaming. Pro climbers are teaming up to compete against other teams at designated walls:

We asked event organisers Ben Moon and Matt Wild at Moon Climbing a few questions about this unique event...

How did the idea for the MoonBoard Masters come about?

Ben: The concept was my idea.The MoonBoard is a standardised training board that can be replicated the world over. This puts it in a unique position and allows any climber with access to a MoonBoard to climb on the same problems as each other. I have wanted to have a MoonBoard competition for several years now and I like the idea of being able to invite some of the strongest climbers in the world to compete against each other without them having to travel half way around the world. Obviously it's new territory and amongst other things we are heavily reliant on technology, but hopefully we can pull it off!

Explain the concept: for those who are unfamiliar with the MoonBoard itself, how does it work? How will the format and the scoring for the Masters event work?

Matt: The MoonBoard is a standardised climbing wall, built to exact specifications. The MoonBoard is linked to a mobile app that contains over 15,000 problems, created by MoonBoard users all around the world.

Due to its standardised format it makes a multi location competition relatively simple to manage, and we have made the format and scoring as simple as possible.

The competition format

The day before the event (8th December) the MoonBoard is reset, with the MoonBoard 2018 setup, this is the first time anyone will have seen this setup, it will also become visible on the MoonBoard App and website for all users around the world. Each team will have one hour to set two problems, one for the male athlete and one for the female athlete. Each team's problems will be classed as a single round in the MoonBoard Masters competition.

9 December: Competition Day

Teams at each location will take it in turns to climb a round of problems. Only when a team has completed the round, or reached their time limit, will the next team's attempt begin. The male athlete will attempt the male problem and the female athlete will attempt the female problem.

Scoring

The Moon Board has 18 rows, each row is worth 10 points, if a climber gets to row 13, for example, they would get 130 points, if a climber gets to the top row and fails they would get 180 points. A climber gets an additional 20 points for completing the route, and if they flash it they get an additional 20 points.

Watch the trailer:

Four climbing gyms around the world will be livestreaming their pro teams' efforts. Who's your money on?

Matt: That's a tough one… The Japanese teams are so incredibly strong I do think they will take some beating, but I think that it could be Alex and Margo, just because of the time zone which possibly gives the UK team a bit of an advantage.

Are there any rules with regard to the setting - do both members of the team have to be able to climb their own problems?

Matt: You would hope that each climber would set a problem that best suits their ability, and that they should be able to at least climb their own problem and preferably flash their own problem.

How can the general public take part in the event?

Matt: Get to your local MoonBoard and climb the same problems set by the MoonBoard Masters. There is a list of participating gyms on the MoonBoardMasters.com site, if you do climb the MoonBoard Masters problems then TELL US on the usual social media sites. If you can film it, then that's even better. We will be monitoring Facebook, Twitter and Instagram throughout the event. Can YOU beat the MoonBoard Masters?

Do you see this kind of homologated, global event as something that will catch on in the future? Do you plan to do more of this kind of competition?

Matt: We really hope so, the MoonBoard and the masters comp has been embraced by gyms all over the world, and we are already planning next year's competitions, so watch this space…..

I'm wondering how much conditions came also into play. In Sheffield it was 2°C and on wooden holds that can actually change a lot compared to 20°C but anyway it's rather a fun comp than the World Cup. Really cool...Skotch85 - 14:47 Tue

I can see your point but it wouldn't work for the comp. The climbers only have one hour to set their problems. If the existing setup was used they could spend days working on something that no one could repeat in four...stp - 22:12 Mon

Does anyone know if the media company which produced this are planning on releasing a highlight video? I'd watch that for sure. It was a long haul watching the whole thing with a lot of down time. And the third men's...Knut R. - 22:04 Mon

I liked it but only got as far as the technical streaming issues, got bored watching a static screen. Will maybe catch up on the rest later. I think it'd be good if they turned the building lights down so the moonboard...thepodge - 07:10 Sun

The new setup looks to have some advantages though. More holds on the lower rows especially, meaning both more opportunities for varied sit starts, and fewer problems all having the same tedious crux getting a foot up...AlanLittle - 21:44 Sat

Thought it was a pretty good competition too. Tomoa's problem and his solution really made my day, such a cool and original climbing style. Very nice that it was a tight race up to the final problem where Miho could...douwe - 20:30 Sat