There are basically two kinds of copper tape. One with conductive adhesive so when you overlay it, the strips form a continuous electrical connection. The other does not. You want the first type. \secondly, there are variations for high frequency limits. Personally I'd paint the cavity and use foil on any covers with attention given to where they meet to ensure electrical connection of cover and cavity.

Just use the paint. Tape is only good for pickguards and cavity covers. Shielding paint is just as effective and far easier to apply, plus it's cheaper.

Bear in mind though that shielding can only do so much. If you get overwound single coil pickups, don't ground them poorly and play through a 100w, high-gain amp with the treble cranked and positioned under a flashing neon light with a laptop balanced next to it, you're going to get a lot of hum. Shielding, really, will only help remove some of the hum caused by radio interference. Other sources of hum are typically too strong for shielding to have any effect.

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Just use the paint. Tape is only good for pickguards and cavity covers. Shielding paint is just as effective and far easier to apply, plus it's cheaper.

Oh, thank you. Now, if I were to apply paint, the only place I would be able to really let it dry is my room, does this copper paint give off a scent or odor that would stink up a room? And, how long does it take for it to dry in your experience?

The stuff on Stewmac is actually a little overpriced. You can get shielding paint for less at most decent-sized hardware and DIY stores.

Shielding paint varies from brand to brand, but generally it's a 48-hour job. You apply one coat, leave it for 24 hours to dry, then apply a second coat, again leaving it 24 hours. Some people like to apply a third coat, though usually two is enough (one is enough in theory, but doing two gives you a better chance of definitely covering every surface).Even after this time you might get a black, chalky residue on clothes or other parts of the guitar; this is an unfortunate drawback of the paint and can't be helped, other than to be careful with how you apply it, give it long enough to dry and don't go sticking your fingers all over it. If you do get any somewhere you don't want it, it's not an issue; shielding paint is water-based so it will wipe off with a warm, slightly damp cloth.

It can smell, like any paint, but not in a toxic way. If you've ever done any painting with water-based acrylic paint (the sort of thing model makers use) or good-quality oil paints, it's that same sort of smell. It's nowhere near as strong as spray paint, glue or anything else like that. It's still a good idea to open a window while you paint and as it dries, but it's not a big issue. I use it indoors all the time.

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Since none of them actually make tape (most tape of any kind sold in the U.S. is made by the 3M corporation), there probably isn't any appreciable difference between them. Unless they specify that one is thicker than the other, either will do.

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The stuff on Stewmac is actually a little overpriced. You can get shielding paint for less at most decent-sized hardware and DIY stores.

It can smell, like any paint, but not in a toxic way. If you've ever done any painting with water-based acrylic paint (the sort of thing model makers use) or good-quality oil paints, it's that same sort of smell. It's nowhere near as strong as spray paint, glue or anything else like that. It's still a good idea to open a window while you paint and as it dries, but it's not a big issue. I use it indoors all the time.

I guess I should paint it and leave it in the basement for 24h hours then, rather than where I sleep, would you say?

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Just use the paint. Tape is only good for pickguards and cavity covers. Shielding paint is just as effective and far easier to apply....

So basically, if I didn't want to use the paint, I could just use the tape (although the painting would be a lot easier), and the tape in the cavities would be just as effective as the paint in the cavities?

Since none of them actually make tape (most tape of any kind sold in the U.S. is made by the 3M corporation), there probably isn't any appreciable difference between them. Unless they specify that one is thicker than the other, either will do.

Yes, they sell it. I'll bet they don't make it. What I meant was that the copper tape is likely made by the same manufacturer and sold through different distributors who put their name on it, rather like many of the components of a television set.

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I guess I should paint it and leave it in the basement for 24h hours then, rather than where I sleep, would you say?

Depends. Basements tend to not be good for guitars, but if yours is dry and neither particularly cold or warm then it might be fine.

To use myself as an example, I paint on the kitchen table and leave stuff in the spare room to dry. Just keep it out of particularly humid rooms, away from radiators, open windows, that sort of thing.

So basically, if I didn't want to use the paint, I could just use the tape (although the painting would be a lot easier), and the tape in the cavities would be just as effective as the paint in the cavities?

Yes. In terms of effectiveness there is no different between tape and paint. Tape is preferred by some simply because it is the older method of shielding and because with some types of copper tape you can solder wires directly to it. Paint is far, far easier and cheaper, though, plus the flat black of the paint tends to fit in with most guitars' looks better than copper foil does.

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Yes, they sell it. I'll bet they don't make it. What I meant was that the copper tape is likely made by the same manufacturer and sold through different distributors who put their name on it, rather like many of the components of a television set.

+1 i bet if you looked around you could find copper tape cheaper because it wouldn't be branded. search on industrial dealers and you would probably pay a lot less.