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Spying on Bucharest’s Cool Underground

By Matt Gross July 9, 2008 12:05 pmJuly 9, 2008 12:05 pm

Young revelers enjoy a drink at La Motoare, the open-air bar atop Romania’s National Theater.See the Slide Show »

About three years ago, Bucharest experienced a revolution that was entirely ignored by the international community. Granted, the coup was not as dramatic as Romania’s 1989 revolution, in which Nicolae Ceausescu, the Communist dictator who had brutally mismanaged this Black Sea nation for more than two decades, was deposed and executed. Nor was it as momentous as when the country joined the European Union in 2007, along with Bulgaria, its neighbor to the south.

So subtle was the transformation, in fact, that most Bucharestians probably didn’t quite realize what was going on.

Here’s what happened: All around the capital, with no formal organization whatsoever, bar and restaurant owners grabbed their chairs and tables, carried them outside and … put them down gently, creating terraces and sidewalk cafes. No longer would patrons be confined to electric-lighted interiors! Now they could eat stuffed cabbage rolls and polenta in the fresh air, shaded from the sun by umbrellas advertising Ciuc beer!

Open-air terraces may not sound like much, but according to my Bucharest-born friend Horia Diaconescu, a keen observer of the city in which he’s spent his 29 years, they represent a sea change. Under Communism, he explained, public life was restricted — people simply did not go out to meet friends (or strangers) in bars and cafes. They socialized in private homes, or not at all. Now, however, “terasas” had become de rigueur, and streets like the cobblestoned Strada Smardan, in the heart of old Bucharest, are filled on summer nights with Romanians enjoying the cool breeze and each other’s company. Viva la revolución!

It was just this kind of innovation I had come to this city of two million to discover. For about a year, I had been hearing of interesting developments — new museums, clever art projects, a film scene garnering international acclaim — and wanted to see how they meshed with Bucharest’s lingering old-world vibe and Communism-deformed mentality. It seemed in keeping with the high-culture principles of the Grand Tour, and affordable to boot, with tons of hotel rooms well below 100 euros.

Video

Frugal Traveler: Bucharest, Romania

The Frugal Traveler, Matt Gross, travels by train to Bucharest and discovers the city's semi-underground culture.

So, from northern Cyprus, I flew to Istanbul (146 Turkish liras, or about $119 at 1.23 liras to the dollar, on the low-cost airline Pegasus (www.flypgs.com), then caught the 18-hour sleeper train onboard the Turkish State Railways (www.tcdd.gov.tr; two-bed cabin, 127.30 liras) through Bulgaria to Bucharest. (A long trip, but cheaper than a direct flight.) I arrived in the early evening, and the setting sun made this attractive city — once dubbed Little Paris — all the more beautiful.

The columned-and-domed edifices of Bucharest’s pre-World War II glory days glowed in the reddening light, and even the Communist-era concrete monstrosities and newer glass-and-steel towers appeared warm and friendly. Okay, they were ugly, but they seemed to have their place.

I felt optimistic, especially after checking into my bed-and-breakfast, the nearly two-year-old Flower’s (2 Strada Plantelor; 40-21-311-9848; www.flowersbb.ro), which was listed in my copy of “In Your Pocket,” a cheeky, well-written series of Central and Eastern European guidebooks. For 150 lei a night (about $65 at 2.30 lei to the dollar), I had a homey, top-floor room with dormer-style windows that looked out on a quiet square: old people chatting on park benches; an Orthodox church with an aluminum-topped, octagonal steeple; a weeping willow; an Art Nouveau house in need of repair.

The city’s historic center was just 10 minutes away by foot. I began in full sightseeing mode, eager to get up to speed on Romanian history and art, and so I walked through Lipscani, a network of alleys that formed the ancient commercial heart of Bucharest. This used to be where traditional artisans plied their trades, but today they’ve mostly been replaced by modern shops and restaurants, and much of the area is pedestrian-only.

But unlike, say, the Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica, Lipscani has yet to be taken over by international chains, and buildings like the 18th-century Stavropoleos Church, a surprisingly cozy house of worship, offer a hint of the neighborhood’s past.

In the Curtea Sticlarilor — the Glass Blowers’ Courtyard, a half-hidden complex down a Lipscani side street — I found a sign of Bucharest’s future. It was Rozalb de Mura (9-11 Strada Selari; 40-21-311-6215; www.rozalbdemura.ro), a fashion boutique I’d heard about.

This was the avant-garde Bucharest I’d been seeking: blazers covered in carefully stitched “scars,” an elegant dress with multilayered lapels that would’ve looked great on Sean Young in “Blade Runner.” I came close to buying a white-cotton jacket with complicated pockets, but it was 488 lei — a bargain for high fashion, but not within my budget. Even the store itself seemed like a work of art, with one room designed to look like a Communist-era den (cheap dining table, glass display case of knickknacks) and the other all-white and filled with artificial mist. The theme this season: reality and illusion.

From Lipscani, I wandered north, past a Christian Dior boutique and the Art Deco “Telephone Palace,” to the colossal National Museum of Art (49 – 53 Calea Victoriei; 40-21-313-3030; www.mnar.arts.ro; admission 15 lei), housed in the former royal palace. The European collection was impressive (El Greco — not bad!), but I really came to see the extensive holdings of Romanian art and to get an idea of what this country’s art was all about.

In the absence of any explanatory placards, I had to do this by inference. My impression is that by the 1840s, after 600 years of mostly religious art — icons, carvings, tombstones and so on, mostly in the Byzantine tradition — Romania leapt into secular modernity with a vengeance. Wealthy businessmen and political leaders had their portraits painted, and artists turned to the natural world and nationalist themes for inspiration.

My favorites among these were C.D. Rosenthal, a Hungarian Jew who painted the iconic “Revolutionary Romania” (1841), and Nicolae Grigorescu, whose tense “The Spy” depicts the pre-dawn horseback pursuit of an Ottoman agent during Romania’s 1877 war for independence. What emerges from this collection is a portrait of a small nation struggling to define itself in contrast to the powers that surround it: Russia, the Ottoman Empire and Western Europe.

Today, at least for a visitor, Bucharest is perhaps less angst-ridden. My few days there were generally filled with the kind of cool, semi-underground culture I’d been seeking. I spent one long afternoon hanging out at the 115 Digital Art Gallery (115 Strada Mihai Eminescu; 40-21-210-1969, www.115.ro), which claims to be the first gallery in Eastern Europe devoted to digitally created works of art. The current exhibition showcased Aya Kato, a young Japanese woman whose stylized images of women, dragons and imaginary worlds had been printed on huge mesh panels and hung, billboard-style, from Communist-era apartment blocks around the city.

Another afternoon, the recently begun comic-book newspaper Aooleu! held a party at the Capitol Cinema, an abandoned, decaying open-air movie theater. While rabbits hid in the foliage, Bucharest’s skin-baring, sunglasses-wearing cool crowd drank lukewarm Heinekens and giggled at Aooleu!’s hand-drawn accounts of strippers in the Bucharest metro.

“Many people say that Bucharest is the new Berlin,” Milos Jovanovic, a Serbian expatriate who is Aooleu!’s co-editor-in-chief, told me. “It’s a place where you can do some stuff, some projects —concepts that have been done all around Europe, but here never. Here there is no comics scene, so doing comics you are exotic.”

And with Horia — the bearded, Alice Cooper-loving flâneur I met through Couchsurfing.com — as my guide, I discovered some amazing places throughout the city. We drank beer made from tea (10 lei) at La Metoc (21 Strada Popa Rusu, 40-721-669-539), a century-old house with a lush garden, and drank normal beer at La Scena (55 Calea Calarasi, 40-21-320-3567; www.lascena.ro), a lushly restored turn-of-the-century house that doubles as an avant-garde theater.

One evening, we took a 10-minute taxi ride out to Lacul Vacaresti, an unfinished artificial lake where we watched the sun set behind construction cranes and the hulking mass of the Palace of the Parliament, the Ceausescu-built neo-Classical castle that is, amazingly, Europe’s largest single building.

Then we went for shawarma at the renowned Dristor Kebab (1 Boulevard Camil Ressu; 40-21-346-8100; www.dristorkebab.ro). Not only was it delicious and cheap (13 lei), but, Horia pointed out, Dristor and its ilk were run by Romanians, not by Turks as in the rest of Europe. The kebabs had been fully assimilated.

But while I was falling in love with Bucharest, I noticed something else: Everyone I spoke to was a little depressed about the city. Artists lamented the weak market, and hipsters complained about the label-obsessed mainstream. Horia told me about a recent flash mob spectacle to commemorate the Mineriada — the 1990 crushing of student protests by mine workers — in which participants, following instructions delivered by text messages, reenacted the violence using feather pillows. But no one would describe Bucharest as a dynamic capital.

I could see what they meant. Bucharest is still a work-in-progress. The National Museum of Contemporary Art (2-4 Strada Izvor, entrance E4, 40-21-318-9137; www.mnac.ro; admission 5 lei) is a great idea — converting one end of the Palace of the Parliament into a modern gallery — but the exhibitions were presented with little to no context. Meanwhile, the museum cafe didn’t actually serve food, and simply leaving there without a car was a nightmare in the summer heat. Perhaps that was why I was the only visitor on Friday.

Everywhere I went, taxi drivers tried to rip me off, usually by pleading poverty when I handed them a 10-lei note to pay a 6-lei fare. Eating well was a challenge, partly because restaurants were stuck in “rustic” mode, but also because their kitchens started closing around 9:30 p.m. And by midnight, the city itself seemed to shut down.

Give it five years, or maybe 10, people told me, and Bucharest will live up to its potential, and perhaps truly be “the new Berlin,” as the British newspaper The Guardian dubbed it in March.

But I liked Bucharest now. On Sunday evening, I was drinking cheap beers with new friends at La Motoare (40-21-315-8508), the open-air bar atop the National Theater (Piata 21 Decembrie 1989). Behind us, a Balkan movie was projected on a screen, closing out the Bucharest Film Festival, and somewhere across town Manu Chao was giving the final concert of the B’estfest music festival. And if I wanted, I could spend the rest of the night wandering the city, finding forgotten churches and secret passages that everyone else ignored.

In five or 10 years, such discoveries would be commonplace, as unremarkable as a table and chairs set out under the stars — but for now they were new, and they were mine.

Matt, I am loving this tour and all your articles. I’m spending the semester in Italy this fall and, seeing as I am only a poor student, I plan to follow your steps as closely and frugally as I can! Thank you so much for all your great advice and fantastic writing. I can’t wait for more!

I visited Buchcarest in 1969 when it was Communist-run. I visited my former husband’s family and fell in love with their warmth and sincerity. But the country was scary back then. Spys followed us, and called on the phone, mainly because my former husband had left Romania when he was 13. I have fond memories of the country, including a short trip to Black Sea. The Frugal Traveler’s article made me want to return.
edith tarbescu

I visted Bucharest in January 2008 for three days, arriving, as you did, on the train from Istanbul (at 2 a.m. due to a huge snow storm). I enjoyed the Opera (twice) and the Roman Atheneum concert hall–one of the most beautiful olde world halls in Europe–not to be missed, where I heard the Georges Enescu Philharmonic play Beethoven’s 7th. Also very worthwhile was the Georges Enescu home, where I was the only visitor.

On the downside, my wallet was stolen off my person by 4-5 teenagers on Stravopolus St. after having had dinner at the Chocolate Restaurant (mediocre–try the olde world Romanian place immediately next door–superb!).

It’s a great city. This was my second visit and I’ll probably go back.

What a shame you missed Bulgaria and the lovely cities of Sofia & Rousse, as well as the beautiful southern Pirin, Rila and Rhodope mountain ranges, on your journey through. Bucharest is interesting, but if you truly seek a bargain, Bulgaria offers sites just as lovely and at a cheaper cost.

Wonderful article illustrating a slice of life in Bucharest. It is unfortunate that corrupt officials and former Securitate agents still pull most of the strings in the country, blocking attempts to bring to justice those responsible for the political crimes committed in December 1989, June 1990, December 1990, January 1991, and others. To this day, despite strong efforts by Viorel Ene, the president of the Association of Victims of Miners Violence, those responsible for ordering the barbaric crack down on June 13-15, 1990 have not been brought to justice. Instead they are free to enjoy the good life in Bucharest and throughout Romania.

Hi Matt! I’m glad you had a good time in Bucharest, but having lived in Romania for a year and half trying to run a tourism business, I would warn anyone away from visiting the country. Corruption is rampant and visible at all levels and the visitor can expect the Romanians to try to rip you off at every opportunity. Customer service barely exists and the services are well below what one would expect in a European country, yet with EU succession, prices have increased to the point that it is more expensive to visit Romania than Austria. Meanwhile, the country is filthy, with trash everywhere, including the rivers. People have been saying “give it five years” for well more than five years now. Unfortunately, joining the EU did not improve anything, as now the Romanian government thinks it is “in the club” and can just do whatever it wants and the people want the wealth they see in Western Europe without any desire to work for it.

I visited Romania back in 1997 and 1998. Still is the greatest place to get a taste of Old Europe. the people are indeed warm and hospitable. Bucharest and Iasi are fabulous cities and the Transylvanian region is outstanding. This article is superbly written and sheds light on the beauty of a place and people that all too often are spoken of in freakish and uncomplimentary terms in the American press. My only question: The outdoor venue called La Motoare, is that not Laptaria lui Enache? If so, it’s been around for ages and is indeed a unique place to hang out and relax and probably considered an institution.

Writing as a travel agent, sadly Bucuresti is over-priced and over-rated. Maybe students looking for cheap beer will like the city, however more sophisticated travellers find it ugly and polluted with poverty staring from many corners. (It is Europe’s most polluted city, since Romania’s rulers cannot grasp town planning. But then why should they? Transparency International just rated Romania a pathetic 3.5 out of 10 for integrity – more corrupt than Colombia or parts of Africa.) Yes, there are a few interesting museums, but that’s all. The best that one can say for Romania is that it’s a sometimes picturesque piece of the Third World handily accessible to Western Europeans.

Budapest in Hungary is a far more beautiful and more interesting city…and it’s cheaper.

Thank you for this! Romania is rarely featured (to the travelers’ disadvantage, I believe) in travel sections of magazines. As a native Romanian, and therefore, biased, I can tell you the country and all its cities and villages are the undiscovered gems of Europe. Because Romania has been slow to recover from its post-Comunist revolution, little has been done to market the natural beauties of the country. On a positive note, it is still one of the most affordable destinations in Europe – with plenty to offer for the price. Bucharest used to be known as the

If you travel, do not miss the National Museum of the Romanian Peasant in Bucharest; the painted monasteries in northern Moldavia; a cruise on the Danube river; the Fagarasan peak, one of the highsest in Europe; a home-made Romanian wine and a genuine peasant meal (polenta with fresh cheese and stuffed grape leaves).

Jackie — Laptaria lui Enache is the downstairs bar. The upstairs terrace is called La Motoare, so Matt is right on that one.

Matt — it’s sort of cute that whoever provided you with the Romanian bits at the end had you call yourself the astute, rather than the frugal, traveller. I’m really glad you enjoyed Romania. It is an amazing place, and if you find someone to take you around, you are guaranteed to have a great time.

I entirely agree with Scarlett. Bucharest is full of garbage and unless you speak native Romanian you are liable to be ripped off. Until a few years ago it was inexpensive, so even if you were cheated and robbed the damage was manageable. Not any more. I recommend Istanbul: far more civilized, interesting, historic, beautiful, and tourist-friendly.

Romania is an awful place to do business, but it’s one of the nicest countries to visit in Central-Eastern Europe. The contrast of post-communistic institutions and beautiful places with nice people makes it a cool destination.

Besides, it’s cheap, especially if you go eat a Romanian kebab instead of wasting money in the bad service restaurants. Parts of Bucharest crave for modernity, often in ridiculous ways, but there are plenty of picturesque sights and opportunities.

I myself visited the Museum of Contemporary Art and found myself wandering alone between those huge halls. Where else could you wander alone through Europe’s biggest building, if not in Bucharest? That alone was worth the trip :)

As I could understand, Bucharest is not necessarily representative for Romania in terms of mentality. Bucharestans have an unusual appeal for sarcasm and depression. Anyways, once you remove this layer, they prove to be very cool people. Glad you had fun!

Great article. Bucharest does also, however, have its downsides. As others have commented, it is a very dirty city and expensive. You also neglected to mention the fact that stray dogs run rampant in practically every sector of the city.

Wonderful article illustrating a slice of life in Bucharest. It is unfortunate that corrupt officials and former Securitate agents still pull most of the strings in the country, blocking attempts to bring to justice those responsible for the political crimes committed in December 1989, June 1990, December 1990, January 1991, and others. To this day, despite strong efforts by Viorel Ene, the president of the Association of Victims of Miners Violence, those responsible for ordering the barbaric crack down on June 13-15, 1990 have not been brought to justice. Instead they are free to enjoy the good life in Bucharest and throughout Romania – after stealing millions, if not billions of dollars, their lifestyle is anything but frugal.

I had decided to skip Bucharest on my trip this summer, but now I’m reconsidering… Matt, you write about my motherland, you share my last name, and you name check my hometown. This article is crazy meta….

I was born in Bucharest, so I have every reason to be biased for it, but really, it’s not the best place to see in Romania, especially in the summer. Please, please, go to see Iasi, the monasteries of Moldova, and Maramures… you’ll see things in the north of the country that aren’t an imitation of anything else, that aren’t a new Paris, a new Prague, or a new Berlin… that are, quite simply, one of a kind.

(By the way, I think the German towns in Transylvania are wonderful too — but they reminded my German boyfriend of, well, towns in Germany, so it might not be the most unique experience.)

Wow, what an interesting eye opening article. I was in Bucharest in June of 1990 when the coal miners came into the city and crushed the student protests. It was not a pretty site. The entire city was in shambles. I stood where Ceausescu gave his last speech outside his palace. The food markets smelled, the train stations were filled with orphaned kids, the building were shot up and people were getting beaten in front of my eyes. Luckily, a police officer protected me and a friend after a crowd turned on us for taking pictures. I’m happy to see that city has changed for the better because quite frankly it was like stepping back to 1945 when I was there last.

I just love every word of what you had to say and every moment of what you experienced back home. I totally long for that… place, beer, food, music, atmosphere, experience, Romania.
I live in Hawai’i for over a year now, but I never stopped believing that the best is still to come. Bucharest will get there soon.
I hope this trip brought you one step closer to my heritage which I love and honor.

Matt,
Very good article and quite exciting to think of Bucharest. In a way the place is still virgin and you can have plenty of cool experiences as a tourist.
And, unlike Bulgaria, it’s quite safe and easy going.

I have lived and worked in Bucharest for 15 very formative years and watched this city evolve from a post strongman influenced, mono-colord, sort of sepia cast dimly lit place, to a (mostly) happy,Technicolored place, full of expensive boutiques, many grand hotels and many dozen restaurants which easily would attract clientele in NY or London, say.

There is too much traffic and sure one might be overcharged, but only by a few, and the positive vibes of this city far outweigh the occasional rip offs. Indeed, one feels safer here than in other bigger cities.

I was very pleased to read a positive review of Bucharest. Its all too easy to dwell on other areas. And understand that Bucharest isn’t Romania by all means and one should see the magic of Bucovina in the North, or Alp like Poina Brasov, or Sibiu which was last year’s cultural capital of Europe and has so much to offer or the many yet largely untouched villages like Maramures and the spas the dot the Romanian landscape or Black Sea Resorts such as Eforie Nord and its thereputic mud baths.