Published 4:00 am, Wednesday, July 9, 2008

This easy, three-step technique ensures an even crumb coating. It's commonly used on thin cuts of chicken, pork or veal that will be fried or baked.

To begin, set up your breading station. Fill the first of three shallow dishes with flour. In the second dish, make an egg wash by whisking eggs with a little bit of water, milk or other liquid or seasoning. Finally, place your breadcrumbs (or other crumbs) into the third dish.

Start by dredging a piece of meat in the flour. Dredging means to thinly coat the meat with the flour, then shake off any excess. This eliminates much of the moisture from the surface of the meat and provides something for the egg wash to grab onto.

The second step is to dip the meat into the egg wash, again letting the extra drip off. At this point, you'll basically have a paste for the crumbs to adhere to. Finally, press the meat into the crumbs, coating evenly.

Try to work with one hand as you complete the process, so as not to bread your fingers on both hands - that can lead to a sticky mess.

Proceed with the recipe as directed.

Browning/Searing

Myths abound about the benefits of searing, most notably that it seals in the juices. In reality, searing or browning meat or fish creates a caramelized, golden crust that adds texture and a depth of flavor.

The most important factor in this technique is to start with a very hot pan. Ideally, you should use one made from a stainless steel or anodized metal - a heavy material that will conduct and distribute heat evenly and well.

Although you can use nonstick pans for delicate fish, pans without a nonstick finish do a better job of browning, and leave lovely browned flavorful bits to use in a pan sauce (see "Making pan sauce.")

To brown, heat a completely dry pan, then add enough oil to lightly coat the surface (if you're using meat that has a lot of fat, you can skip this step and put it directly into the dry pan). The oil should heat to the point where it shimmers, but does not smoke. You can test this by flicking a droplet of water into the pan - if the pan is ready, the water should sizzle and evaporate upon contact.

Place your ingredient directly into the pan. It will hiss at first, but let it cook until a golden brown crust forms. If the pan is heated properly, the ingredient won't stick to the pan, and you'll be able to lift it with tongs or a spatula easily.

Keep in mind that if you overcrowd the pan, the ingredients will steam rather than brown, so sometimes you'll need to cook in batches. It's OK to wipe out the pan in between, but leave the fond - the brown bits that stick to the bottom.

Dicing an onion

If done properly, dicing an onion is very simple. If you've never attended culinary school or worked in a restaurant kitchen, there's a good chance you've never learned the proper method. It's little more than three basic cuts.

Before you begin, make sure your chef's knife is very sharp, so that it slides easily through the onion. (This will help your watering eyes, too.)

Cut off the stem end of the onion, trim the root end, then halve the onion from top to bottom. This will give each half a flat side to place on the board.

Leave the root end (which will be tighter than the stem end) intact to hold the onion together, peel off the skin, and, starting with one half, face the root end away from you on the cutting board. Holding the onion firmly on either side, proceed by making vertical cuts along the onion half, spacing them according to the desired thickness of the dice. You'll want to angle your knife inward at the sides to hold the onion together as you cut along the half. Again, leave the root end intact, and don't cut all the way through to the root.

Next make horizontal cuts. With your knife parallel to the cutting board, slice the onion, spacing according to your desired dice size and not cutting all the way through the root end.

Finally, cut the onion cross-wise, releasing the diced onions in each layer as you cut toward the root end. When you've reached the final piece, lay it flat on the cutting board and make cuts in both directions to finish the dice.

This technique can also be used to dice shallots.

Folding

Folding is used in souffles, cake batters or any recipe that calls for combining two ingredients of different densities. Usually, whipped egg whites or whipped cream is incorporated into a heavier batter or custard to lighten the batter. In the case of egg whites, the air that has been incorporated into the whipped whites acts as leavening to help cakes or souffles rise.

With the heavier batter in a bowl, gently deposit about a quarter of the egg whites or whipped cream on top of the batter. Using a rubber spatula, gently reach down through the whites and batter to the bottom of the bowl and lift the some of the batter up along the edge of the bowl and over the whites in the center. It's all about the twist of the wrist.

With each folding motion, turn the bowl slightly. Continue this motion until there are no traces of egg white left. Starting with a quarter of the whites or cream will lighten the batter enough so that when you add the remaining egg whites or cream all at once, you can easily fold using the same technique.

Be careful to combine the two ingredients quickly but gently, so as not to deflate the air bubbles.

Making pan sauce

One of our all-time favorite techniques - making a pan sauce - is a great secret for home cooks. Within minutes, you can create a quick, professional-tasting meal using just a few ingredients.

This method utilizes the brown bits on the bottom of a pan (called fond) that appear after you've used the searing or browning technique, with anything from meat or poultry to fish.

We like to start by sauteing some diced shallots or other aromatics for added flavor, either in the fat leftover from browning the meat or in a little extra olive oil or butter.

Next, add liquid to the hot pan, and bring to a simmer. You can use wine, stock, vinegar, juice or other flavored liquid. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape the fond from the bottom of the pan and incorporate it into the sauce, adding color and flavor. This is called deglazing. Reduce the sauce by letting it simmer and cook down, which concentrates the flavors and thickens the sauce. How long it simmers depends on how much liquid you add, but it's never more than a few minutes.

To finish, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in cold cubes of butter, which will further thicken the sauce, add extra richness and provide luster. Season it with salt and pepper, and you'll have a finished sauce that will enhance a main course.

Rolling out pie crust

Even the most experienced baker can have trouble rolling out a pie crust and getting it into the pan. It's a technique that, above all else, requires practice. Plus, outside factors, like the temperature of the room or the dough, can affect success.

Start with a flattened round of pie dough that has been chilled in the refrigerator. You want it to be cold enough so the butter or fat doesn't melt, but malleable enough that you can roll it out somewhat easily with a rolling pin.

Have a pile of flour on hand for dusting - it's imperative to spread it on your work surface, sprinkle it on top of the dough and rub some onto the rolling pin, to ensure that nothing sticks. Starting in the center of the dough, make short strokes toward the edges in different directions, turning the dough often as it becomes thinner to maintain a circular shape. Sprinkle the work surface and dough with flour as needed to prevent sticking; avoid adding too much flour, which will toughen the dough.

Stop rolling when the dough is about 2-3 inches larger than your inverted pie pan. Place the rolling pin on the edge of the dough that's farthest away from you, and roll the dough around the pin toward you, until you have about half of it on the pin. Gently move the rolling pin over the pie pan, and slowly unroll the dough, draping and centering it over the pan, and gently lift and coax down into the edges. Lightly press the dough into the bottom corners of the pan.

Using a sharp knife, trim the excess dough around the outside, leaving a 1/2- to 1-inch overhang that you can roll under the border to create a thick edge, which gives the crust stability as it bakes. Decorate the border as desired, either with the tines of a fork or your fingers.

Making a roux

A roux is the traditional way to thicken and enrich gravies, sauces and soups. It's essential to making our Best Way Gravy that is part of our Thanksgiving section every year, and is used often in Cajun/Creole cooking.

A roux is a cooked mixture of equal weights of flour and fat - we generally use butter So, one stick of butter (or four ounces) would be blended with four ounces of flour, usually a little more than what would fit into a dry half cup measure.

To make the roux, start by melting the butter in a heavy-bottom saucepan until it foams and bubbles. Add the flour all at once, whisking constantly until the two are combined and a smooth consistency has formed. It's important to cook the mixture for at least 2 to 3minutes. At this point, you have a blond (or white) roux, which is used to thicken soups or sauces like bechamel or veloute, where the lighter color plays a key role.

Beyond that, the roux will take on different characteristics, depending on how long it cooks in the pot. Between 5 and 10 minutes, the roux will develop a light brown hue and a nutty flavor, good for thickening dishes like beef stew.

In Cajun/Creole cooking, recipes most often call for a dark brown roux, which has been cooked for 20 to 25 minutes.

Keep in mind that the longer roux cooks, the nuttier and richer the flavors become, but it will also lose thickening power as it darkens, which means you'll have to make more.

To thicken your dish, cook it with the roux mixed in for at least 15 to 20 minutes. This will cook out the starchy flour flavor and bring the dish to the desired consistency.

Segmenting citrus

Orange or other citrus segments, also known as supremes, make a beautiful presentation when they are removed from the peel, pith and membrane. We love them on salads, over fish or in desserts.

Cut off the top and bottom of the fruit so that it sits flat on the cutting board. With a small, sharp knife, cut away one section of peel and bitter white pith, following the natural curve of the fruit from top to bottom. Continue around the citrus, cutting away sections of the peel and pith as you go. Trim any leftover pith once the peel has been removed.

Holding the fruit in your hand, with a bowl underneath, make two cuts within the membrane on either side of a segment, and with the second cut, lift the segment out of the membrane. Place the fruit on a plate or in another bowl. Continue around the whole fruit in the same fashion. The juice will drip into the bowl as you work, allowing you to save it for another use, such as vinaigrette.

The peeling portion of this technique can be used for any rounded fruit with a rind, such as melons and pineapples.

Tempering

This technique refers to a method that blends ingredients of two different temperatures. Most often, we use it to incorporate cold eggs into hot liquid, such as milk or cream when making custard, ice cream or other dishes where eggs are the main thickener.

In its most basic form, tempering involves gradually pouring hot liquid into the eggs in a steady stream while whisking constantly, which slowly raises the temperature of the mixture without curdling or scrambling it.

Once enough of the hot liquid has been incorporated, the egg mixture can be poured back into the original liquid, where it will begin to thicken the liquid as it continues to cook.

(Note: Tempering chocolate is a different process that produces shiny, smooth chocolate after melting.)

Making a vinaigrette

Knowing how to make a vinaigrette always comes in handy. It's something that can be made on a whim with pantry staples, and it tastes much better and fresher - and is more economical - than bottled dressing.

The basic ratio for vinaigrette is one part vinegar to three parts oil, although if you substitute something less acidic like lemon juice for the vinegar, you'll want to lessen the oil accordingly. As with anything else, you'll get the best results if you use the highest quality ingredients.

You'll need both hands to make a vinaigrette - one to pour in the oil, and the other to whisk. To that end, it's important that the bowl sit stationary on the counter. If you don't have a rubber-bottomed bowl, you can shape a towel in a ring around the bottom of the bowl to provide traction.

Start by dissolving a little bit of salt in the vinegar. Though you can season the dressing at the end, the salt will dissolve more readily directly in the vinegar. Add a small amount of Dijon mustard, which acts as an emulsifying agent, binding together the oil and vinegar. Whisk in the mustard until well combined, then slowly pour the oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly, until the dressing is blended and emulsified. If desired you can season with pepper or more salt, to taste.

Experiment with this basic vinaigrette by changing the type of oil or vinegar, or by enhancing the dressing with other ingredients like herbs, garlic, shallots or citrus zest. It can be tossed with salad greens, or drizzled over grilled vegetables, pasta salad, fish or meat to finish a dish.

Popular cuts

Finishing a dish with a chiffonade of basil or garnishing with a brunoise of red peppers are techniques that most professional chefs employ. But even in a home kitchen, knowing how to chop, dice and slice correctly speeds preparation and adds an artistic edge to even the most basic dish. Here are illustrations of some of the most popular cuts:

3 oranges, peeled and cut into segments, 1 tablespoon juice squeezed from peel and set aside

The vinaigrette:

2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt + more to taste

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 cup fruity olive oil

-- Ground black pepper, to taste

For the chicken: Set up a breading station. On one shallow plate, combine flour with salt and pepper. In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk eggs with 2 tablespoons water and the mustard. On a third plate, spread panko breadcrumbs.

Season chicken lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Dredge one cutlet in flour, shaking off excess. Dip into egg mixture, and then coat with breadcrumbs. Repeat with remaining chicken.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot but not smoking, add the chicken. Cook on each side for about 3-4 minutes, until cooked through. Transfer chicken to a plate covered with paper towels. You may need to do this in two batches. When cool enough to handle, cut into 1-inch thick slices on the bias and set aside.

For the salad: Wash and dry the salad greens. On a platter, combine the greens and fennel, and gently toss in the orange segments.

For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and reserved orange juice, and whisk in the salt to dissolve. Whisk in the mustard until combined, then, in a steady stream, slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Add black pepper to taste, and more salt if needed.

Gently toss all but about 3 tablespoons of the dressing with the salad, top with the sliced chicken, and drizzle remaining dressing over the chicken.

Pan-Seared Pork Chops with Plum-Madeira Pan Sauce

Depending on how tart your plums are, you may need to add more or less sugar than the recipe calls for.

4 boneless, center-cut pork chops (thin cut, about 3/4-inch thick)

-- Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/2 cup Madeira

1/2 cup red wine

4 plums, pitted and sliced into wedges

2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

2 tablespoons chiffonade of basil

Instructions: Season the chops with salt and pepper to taste.

Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat until hot when you place your hand a few inches above the pan. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add the pork chops and sear until a golden-brown crust forms, about 2 minutes on each side. Remove to a plate and cover.

Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining oil and the shallots, and saute until the shallots are softened, about 2 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the Madeira, making sure to scrape up all of the browned bits, or fond, on the bottom of the pan. Bring to a simmer and reduce the sauce by half, about 3 minutes. Add red wine, bring to a simmer, and continue to reduce about 5 more minutes. Add the plums and sugar as needed, and cook until the fruit is softened and the flavor has infused the sauce, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the cold butter. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, add the pork chops back into the sauce, and put back on low heat. Slowly heat for at least 5 more minutes, until the meat is just cooked through to your liking.

For the pie dough: Mix together the flour and salt in a bowl or the bowl of a food processor. Add the butter and shortening, and work it into the flour with your fingertips or a pastry blender or pulse in the food processor until the mixture resembles fresh breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in the water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring lightly with a fork or pulsing after each addition. Use enough water so the dough holds together.

Form the dough into a ball and flatten the top to form a disk. Wrap the dough completely in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface until it is a 1/8-inch thick round that is 2 inches larger in diameter than your inverted pie pan.

Transfer the dough to the pan (see video on sfgate.com), then trim edges to make about a 1-inch overhang. Roll the edge under and crimp decoratively. Chill for at least 20 minutes before baking.

In the meantime, preheat the oven to 425°.

When ready to bake, line the pie dough with a piece of aluminum foil shiny-side down. Fill with dried beans, rice or pie weights. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and beans. Return the pie shell to the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes longer, rotating the pan a couple of times, until evenly browned. Set aside to cool.

For the filling: In a large saucepan, whisk together the coconut milk, milk, 3/4 cup of the sugar and vanilla bean seeds and pod, and scald over medium heat. When you see small bubbles around the sides, remove pot from the heat and set aside for 10-15 minutes. Discard the vanilla bean pod.

Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, the cornstarch, rum and salt until well combined. Pour about 1 cup of the milk mixture into a liquid measuring cup, and in a very slow and steady stream, gradually whisk the hot liquid into the eggs to temper the mixture. Then, whisk the egg mixture back into the remaining milk on the stove and, continuing to whisk, heat until the whisk makes clear lines across the thickened custard and it starts to boil in large bubbles. Immediately pour into a clean bowl, and whisk in 1/2 cup of the toasted coconut and the cold butter until melted and combined.

Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly against the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. When cooled, place in the fridge to chill for at least 4 hours or overnight.

When ready to assemble pie, whip the cream with the sugar until soft peaks form. Fold half of the whipped cream into the custard and spread into pie shell. Pipe the remaining whipped cream decoratively over the top, and garnish with remaining toasted coconut. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

Shrimp & Corn Chowder

Serves 6-8

Techniques used: Making a Roux; Dicing an Onion.

I like to use chicken broth and water for the soup base, but for broth with more fish flavor, substitute seafood stock or clam juice. For garnish, buy an extra handful of shrimp. Season with salt and pepper, and saute in olive oil.

Instructions: Place bacon slices in a cold pan and turn burner to medium-low heat. Cook bacon until it's crisp and the fat has rendered, about 6-8 minutes. Remove bacon to a paper towel with a slotted spoon and set aside.

If you want to use the olive oil, pour the bacon fat out of the pan and add the oil. If not, leave the bacon fat in the pan.

Turn the heat to medium, and add onions and red pepper, sauteing until the vegetables have softened and the onion is translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Pour in the white wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up any brown bits left over from the bacon, and reduce until nearly dry. Add the bay leaf, thyme, half the corn kernels, the broth and 2 cups water. Scrape any remaining pulp or juice from the stripped ears of corn into the pot as well. Bring to a boil, then turn heat to low and simmer until the flavors have melded and the soup has reduced slightly, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the roux. In a small saucepan on medium heat, melt butter until it is bubbling and foamy. Add flour all at once, whisking constantly for about 2-3 minutes, until some of the flour has been cooked out and you have a smooth, light, straw-colored paste.

When soup has finished simmering, take about 1 cup of the broth (try to get it without too many vegetables if possible) and slowly add it to the pot with the roux, whisking constantly until the roux is loosened and combined. Pour the whole mixture back into the big soup pot, and continue to whisk and cook the soup until it has thickened and the chalky taste has been cooked out, about 15 minutes.

About 5 minutes into this final cooking time, add the shrimp and the remaining corn kernels.

When finished cooking, stir in the bacon, leaving a few slices for garnish if desired. Remove from heat, stir in cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with snipped chives, remaining bacon and sauteed shrimp, if desired.

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