Arrival Johannesburg 06.10.06, early morning (Yawnnn...)
Jannie said, this belongs to a trip report, so I’ll let you know the impressions of very first moments after I put my feet on African soil. As the lady of my travel agency told me, my luggage will be checked through to Upington, I had relaxed 10 and ½ hrs of flight. Then the unkind cabin staff told me that upon arrival to Johannesburg, I had to pick up my luggage to go to domestic flight counter – nice, when you arrive with a delay at 08.00h in the morning and connecting flight to Upington is scheduled for 08.35 hr. Grrrrrr...

And there he was. About 1.90m tall, dressed in dark blue with a name plate on it – looking soooo important. I managed to catch him before others got him, told him I have to hurry, needed his help.... He, Mr. Importance, agreed. "M’am, I will be here for you. Go and look for your luggage, I’ll be waiting for you here (at „x“ place) and will direct you quickly to domestic counter"..... OK. I’ve been waiting for about 30 minutes for my luggage. There it was, I was a bit wet and nervous but sure, with this guy’s help, I’ll manage to catch the Upington flight. I turned around to look for the guy: No guy.

I did not waste time to look for him, grabbed the next one – 1.90m tall, dressed in dark blue, looking sooo important, told him: Sir, it will be your day today if you help me to get the Upington flight....He just took the handle of my luggage and started walking. Walking like a giraffe – with long legs, loooong steps, Lord was he quick! I am 1.75 m tall, in quite good condition but, the way he walked: I was lost. He made one step, I made two. I had the feeling of beeing a little dog running after my master...

Finally, we reached Upington counter (after about 100 miles): The counter was dark and closed. My helper did not worry at all. He just told me: Lady, pls wait here, I will look for your flight ... He came back with the clerk in charge for the counter who told me that Upingtong flight had a little delay.... And then, there were coming about 10 sweating people, crying for their Upingtong flight, so we were 11. The counter manager and my helper were completely relaxed and told me (us) the flight will be delayed but ready for us within 20 minutes – Pheewww!

Ok then, I looked for some paper money for my tall helper – "OH NO, Madam! It was a pleasure to help you!" – He took the Euros and disappeared with his long giraffe legs. I just fell down on my luggage, a bit tired of the long sight seeing trip through Johannesburg Airport, and no, not tired after 12 hrs of not sleeping.

There it was, 15 minutes later: The call for Upington. Unexpected, but real. The 10 other passengers and me entered the (very small!) plane and I tried to relax. And there he was, my African angel. Just sitting at the other side of aisle, a biz man on his way to Upington. At this moment I did not know that he’d be my guardian angel....

Arrival in the desert, called Upington – what a wonderful airport in the desert. Upington is a very nice, small and modern airport. I instantly felt good. My luggage was there right after arrival. The containers with renting companies were just on the other side of the road. Wonderful.

Instead one thing: No car for me. I left Johannesburg with about 13°, Upingting had 35°. So you really feel well after a long flight and enjoying the heat now. But, no car for me. The guy at rental station welcomed me so friendly, but – where was my car? My booking was a 2x4, they confirmed an upgrade to 4x4 as 2x4 was not available – in fact, no car was avaiable!

The rental guy was trying to be helpful. He phoned around a lot – without success. My guardian angel arrived that moment asking me to give him a lift to Upington if he could manage to get a car for me! OK then. Deal. He talked to the H*** guy for many minutes – normally, I can help myself quite good everywhere but, this moment I was happy someone else took over the leadership. He came back telling me, my car still is in Upington and will arrive within next half hour.

I was not prepared to wait for half an hour, talked to the rental guy, Mr. Guardian Angel joined me – et voilà: The H-guy agreed to go to Upington with his private car, took us to the garage where my (rented) car was for a small repair – then, I’d be mobile with a car! That sounded good!. So, we went to Upington: The H-guy, Mr. Guardian Angel and me. We arrived at the garage in Upington. No car. It took about half an our of phoning – my angel did it – to find out, that „my car“ still was under repair elsewhere and should be there within one hour. ONE HOUR! Slowly I started melting away under my shirt, my make-up was gone, my stomache forgot was hunger means – I just needed to drink gallons of water.

Finally, after a wonderful sightseeing trip through Upington with Mr. Guardian Angels‘ private car – going to the bank to change money, supermarket, buying food and 50 liters of water – my angel arranged all! We went to his company where he told his staff that he will come back in some hours, he had to help me!

Finally, my 4x4 was ready to be taken over by me – horror! Driving on the wrong side, my left hand is NOT made for that – my Angel took 2 hours to go into the desert to train with me! He arranged all for me and did not want to let me leave to TR without knowing that I can manage a car left-handed and driving on the wrong side! To tell it in short words: I left Upintong in a slight chaos. - But I managed to control that evil car!

Finally, I left to TR with the comfortable feeling that my angel would be there to help me within shortest time. He strongly asked me to inform him upon safe arrival (and to give a message from time to time)... What I did. After more than 2 days w/o sleep I would have sold my soul to the devil....

Love it Christelsabine Nice to read that there are very nice, helpfull people around.As a fellow traveller i feel your panic

Oh no, no panic at all! I simply had the big luck of hitting on friendly and helpful people I never met before, and this was just the begin of meeting many others on this trip.

Just last night, I received wonderful Martial Eagle (and other) pics sent by a great Dutch couple I met on the road near Urikaruus. My camera batteries were empty , there was this king of the air sitting on a tree so close to me - and suddenly the two Dutch travellers stopping beside me, asking if they should do some pics of the eagle for me to send by email! Isn't that wonderful? (I'll post pics later) They were staying at TR, so later we met and talked for hours....

@ Elsa: You are right: Reaching TR was like entering paradise, the girl at the gate was smiling from one ear to the other one and my cottage No. 11 with a wonderful bed and view over to the Botswana side.

I woke up at about 04.30am as the storm arrived - it didn't leave for the next days, that monster noise machine While waiting for full daylight looking out the window, I saw my very first animal which in this diffuse light I was unable to clearly identify, but I think it was a Hyena. It walked along the road behind the cottage and disappeared.

This day's schedule was Kalahari Tented Camp to stay 5 nights. Mr. Biz sent me an SMS to remind me of lowering the pressure of tyres to 1.6! I went down to the gas station and finally into the red sand dunes

A kid is jumping up and down, full of excitement ... That’s how I felt when leaving TR this morning direction KTC (if my memory serves me right, it’s about 280 km). Only few hundred meters after leaving the gate and one feels like beeing completely alone on the moon. I fully forgot about the comfortable cottage behind me. Gallons of water, dozens of rusk bags on the seat beside me, camera loaded: What could go wrong?? I’m sure, everybody who’s been there knows what I’m talking about. For the others: As soon as I felt sand under „my tyres“, adventure began. A pen, some pc of paper beside me and I started to notice every animal I saw. The first Gnu, lying like a giant black rock in the riverbed: Woah! I stopped, made pics, wrote down all, even the number of animals I saw (later I gave up, it’s just too much to count Springbock, Gnu, Oryx)

Sightings: Kori Bustard, impressing giant bird walking in the dunes on the road to Kieliekrankie where I only made few kms to have a look over the dunes: The dunes are rolling hills, one after the other, endless...., then went back to Mata-Mata road. Pale Shanting Goshawk, Ostrich.

My real 1st close sighting: Snake, not moving too fast, to my shame I have to admit I forgot its name – who knows??

I was creeping over the road not to miss a single bit. Close to Dalkeith waterhole, I met a car with a yellow ribbon: A German forum member plus SO, unfortunately, I do not remember forum name, they were from South Germany (we met again later). We chatted for a while and they told me about the lion at the waterhole. It was the 3rd loop, and there he was: Lying under a tree, flat like a fish and showing me his back side but, my first lion!

KTC is a beautiful place. My tent was No. 13 – this is view from tent entrance up to reception and pool area. Reception is a small hut with a very nice little lady, very kind and helpful.

Tent looked great: I opened a high gate (and always had to pay attention that it was closed, as animals used to walk around) - at closer look, it did not look great: Zippers were broken, did not close, the „entrance hole“ was large enough for a hyena to come in. The facility manager arrived, worked for about an hour and finally: All zippers worked. He really was attentive, controlled all window and door flaps until all was OK. It looked wonderful inside: The light was like orange colour, all was comfortable, I loved it from first moment. So just threw luggage inside, jumped into car again and off I went to look for Namibia gate at Mata-Mata. No gate. I bought a map at Mata-Mata shop (I would recommend everybody to buy it) and again, I was on the road.

It started to be stormy and dark more and more but I still loved to surf around. In advance, I was booked for sunset drive. The sweet little lady at reception wanted to keep me informed if sunset drive ex Mata-Mata would be done or not. It was. The guide/ranger arrived late afternoon. We were requested to come/go back to/from reception by car – and there we entered the truck. As I forgot my camera, I ran back to my tent, ran back to the truck just to hear people scream: Hyena! The local hyena just crossed the way behind me. My 2nd close sighing!

Beside me was sitting a German couple, the lady and I held the spotlights, even I was nearly blind with my wet glasses – it was a blast! Upon return, they joined me with their car lights until I entered my gate safely, as they were my neighbours in No. 14, great people! What a wet and wonderful tour!!
- To be con’td -

Returning from sunset drive, I fell down in the bed. I woke up later that night as storm became stronger and stronger – screaming, ranting incredibly loud! My head sent me signals: Migraine was coming. Shit. Migraine is a horror and once or twice a year nearly killing me, anyhow stealing days of precious life time.

Tried my best to ignore the disturbing noise of storm. Woke up at noon, migraine was hammering in my head, I did not move, fell asleep again until late afternoon someone called me: It was facility manager asking me if all is OK, my car still was standing there, nobody saw me.... I put on my darkest sun glasses, left the tent into the sunshine and told him that I was OK, just a little migraine.. We watched tracks of animals around the tent, he explained all in detail, that kind man. I still was ready to sorry! puke, as my stomache always suffers a lot at migraine attacks – but this guy was too friendly and attentive. Did my best to look like a lady. He left, I fell back into my bed again. But only for a short time: Lightning, thunderstorm, I started to feel uncomfortable – so decided to wait for the end of that hell in my car. Upon leaving my place for few meters, I met all my neighbours in their cars with same ideas..... It took about 1 ½ hrs until I returned to tent.

Storm seemed to be gone – no, it came back and woke me up at about 22.00 that night. I never saw such a violent storm, the tent was moving from one edge to next... I walked around, checking the tent, it looked strong and OK, the best place seemed to be the toilet room! Storm moved every single side of tent so strong, I was sure, next moment tent will be blown away – I sat on my bed, fully dressed, ready to leave tent within a minute to spend rest of the night in the car – can you imagine to be sitting on your bed just like on the middle of a dinner plate? I was sure, next moment my tent would be blown away and me, the poor idiot, would be ready to be eaten as the main dinner dish – the storm did not stop a moment, the noise was becoming stronger and stronger – and exactly that time when I decided it’s enough, I’d leave tent to spend another time in my car, I heard those friendly visitors: Hyena! So close to to me, I had the feeling they were waiting for me beside the car.

I did not leave the tent that night. I was sitting there in a chair and waited for things to come. Storm went down late morning, I packed my things and promised myself to go back to TR. To have a solid roof over my head. Migraine was gone.

The Snake earlier on is the Cape Cobra, can be a nasty little fellow if not left alone!!!

Sorry, my bad. On my very first way from TR to KTC I made 2 pics of a Molesnake (?) which was moving slowly, the above 2 were out of my "Cape Cobra" serial - there were so many I've seen. (Pics of Molesnake are still in my camera, have to upload them) And man, a Cobra is quick! As soon as I came a bit closer, it disappeared into next hole or under next bush. Below is a Cape Cobra I met late afternoon, on my usual way along the Mata-Mata/TR road, it crossed the road just in front of me. I had a quick look around and left the car to come closer, crept uphill a bit - that moment she turned around, raised up her body for about 1/2 meter, showed me her (small, not fully extended) shield and disappeared under the branches. I understood, decided for a strategical slow withdrawal and was simply happy about that wonderful sighting Snakes are absolutely fascinating!

What Christo said - next days were fine and relaxed. The prettly little lady at reception (she really was a short one but, full of energy and always very alert and smiling ) was working hard to remove knee deep rain water from her reception but informed Mata-Mata by radio about my wish to go back to TR. So, few minutes later at Mata-Mata they too by radio (total power failure, no computer) asked TR about availability - is was OK. I was happy and slowwwwwly took the road to TR - I had all the time of the world! A solid roof was waiting for me, clouds were far away (but visible in the distance!) road trip just was lovely! No time pressure...
Last view from KTC - a heavenly place in daytime:
Jannie, isn't that your one-horned-Oryx? Again the one horned guy?
And that's the classical high up in the dunes:

TR again was like reaching paradise. Solid like a rock - man, was I happy. My new home was No. 28. That's the view from it upon arrival :

And that a bit earlier on my way:

X-Mas is coming soon, I know what my biggest wish will be: A good solid perfect working camera My equipment really was not good enough to catch all the beauty around me

.... but my unlucky neighbour in No. 14 nearly was, no! not himself but, his kitchen tent disappeared into the river bed – that’s what I’ve been told 2 days later. My new home No. 28 in TR was so nice. Full of energy, I started to plan plenty of activities, such as morning walks, afternoon walks, drives of every kind – not to forget my 4x4 waiting for me outside, hehe.

Result of efforts? No walks, not in the morning, not in the afternoon, NO ONE was available for that! I was deeply disappointed – additionally, the road to Nossob was closed due to heavy rains. Grrrrr... What to do? Leaving early morning, taking same road up and down for next days plus 2 dune roads (frankly speaking: I did not appreciate that dune roads with their „BnD-Ups’n Downs“ that much!) Yes, and sending a complaining SMS to Jannie made me feel a bit better... He of course had no SMS reception at that time – wasted work !

Jannie returned few days later from his trail and kindly arranged an early morning drive (starting at 05:00am)- this drive was kinda romantic, it’s so different to see the landscape in the rising sun, absolutely impressing! And all in that wonderful silence – we only were 3 early birds, other 5 pax’s decided to do another sleeping turn. Their own bad.

If I remember right, I did about 6 or 7 sunset/night drives (will give a short list of sightings at another place), burned gas for hundreds of kilometers on same road(s) and discovered the beauty of driving sloooowly – every day, landscape showed more and more of its beauty. I am not talking about lions, leopards – I am talking about wonderful small things I saw, f. e.
Those are not my best pics but, knowing about the story makes a wonderful memory.

This raptor was trying to catch a Cape Cobra with his claws – he failed, of course! That show did last for about 45 min., he did not want to give up, jumping forward, backwards... she did not disappear into the hole – it looked like a game they were playing. I was foolish enough to end that show by approaching a bit by foot to catch pics – the little raptor did not like it and left quickly. So I backed off too hoping the story would go on – meanwhile, the Cobra took the chance to cross the riverbed with incredible speed. Show was over. No more pics.

Days passed quick and I really did not want to leave – so I phoned to airport, rental station .... postponed my trip to KMIA (Kruger)for 2 days. All was perfect, instead of car issue: The H-guy (OK, it was Hertz) desperately needed (my) rented 4x4 for another client and had no equivalent available – he promised to send me a normal Toyota next morning. The evening before, I left car in front and car key inside the reception and went home. Next morning was early morning drive scheduled... meeting before 05:00...

Wow, was it dark that morning! I remember looking outside every minute hoping it suddenly would be bright daylight but, NO! It was pitch-dark. I put myself together, grabbed the huge torch, left my castle heading down to meeting point (in front of reception) and happily entered the truck. Woah! Breath of relief. Seen from today’s distance, this was the most impressing drive I ever did, full or wonderful silence, athmosphere and fresh air – an early morning (view) to remember for a lifetime. In full daylight, our guide stopped (again) and arranged for some pics - I do not want to scare anyone, so will refrain from showing pics of me here

@ Boulder: That is one of the "Mole-Snake" pics I found (made on the road to Mata-Mata) - is it really a Mole Snake? I'm lost, sorry...

If my memory serves me right, it was the 12th of October when Restio plus family arrived - I can tell you, that great women is full of live! What she has to tell to the world is more than you can imagine - it simply was a pleasure listening to her! In the late afternoon, I went to her chalet to say hallo - she made the big mistake to invite me for that night for "a glass of good cape wine"... Ha! I think I destroyed all her cape wine reserves that night - Jannie was there with a beer - Restio's little son climbed around - it was such a great atmosphere. A wonderful evening, we chatted away the hours.

Next very early morning, I generously ignored the little headache and left for the morning drive - See above!

Upon return picked up the new little car at the reception (car was not that nice! Really, I disliked it.)... Having the feeling to slide with my butt just over the earth - NO. Not good. It was Friday, the 13th.... no, I'm not superstitious! Lucky thing was: The Nossob road was opened again same minute I arrived at the barrier - HURRAY!!

What a new experience! I was totally excited and prepared, to go this road up and down from the end to the begin - that was just a dream I realized there was not enough gas to go for a long walk (my mistake, did not control that), in fact that drive was a boring thing, the bushes left and right were too high for my little sh*t car (sorry) - I started to be a bit mad, went back with my last drops of gas and than: Big Bang! Left front tyre was gone. Holy Moly, that smelled bad, arghh! Car was moving a bit weird but drove me back to TR - funny little thing!

The moment I entered the inner gate of TR, the young guy from main entrance came running: He quickly realized what happend, showed me a place at camp area to park there, told me just to leave car : He and his mates would change tyre! That young boy was good, had a quick overview of situation, perfect young man! I left car there and went to my castle to phone ...

The Hertz-guy at Upington was a bit upset (so was I) and seriously asked me "why I was going with that Toyota into the desert..That car is not made for it..." ??? What?? Why? What the hell was I doing here? A beach holiday or what? He clearly knew where I was going to from Upington, how could he ask me such a silly question/send me such a car for the desert?? He was No. 1 on my top list

After a long time of talking (you know, by cell phone from SA via Germany and back to SA ) he understood my strong wish: Man, send me another 4x4 or similar for my last days, this is not Mediterranian Sea to relax at a beach, I need a car. I was not prepared to do any trip again with a reserve tyre!!! He had no car. With my very last seconds of patience I told him: JUST GO TO the container next door: There are plenty of rental stations: Pls, pls, pls ask someone else for a car! Arrange the transport next EARLY morning to TR.... He understood. And promised that next morning, a 4x4 would be in TR, sent by another rental company, eta next day: About 08:00 - the guys arrived at about 10:00. They forgot half of papers- that was no more counting for me...

Hi Elsa, who said this: "Africa is not for sissies...?" That wise person was so right...

Bright sunshine, red sand - my anger was gone within 20 seconds, there was a huge car again, high "altitude" - what else could go wrong? Last days were absolutely wonderful. Thanks to DuQues and his help, now I'm quite a professional in resizing pics (if I'm not, pls correct me DuQues and again, thank you soooo much )

Murron66: Greez back to lovely Suisse and thanks for understanding

Here's what I saw right after leaving TR - pls forgive poor camera skills (sometimes, my little digicam was super!): the local lion king taking his morning drink. His ladies were a bit more in the background, not relaxed, moved a lot - it think, there were just tooo many cars around so he decided to lay down a bit closer and BETWEEN his ladies and all those stinking disquieters - it looked exactly like that! He came closer, watched the cars and fell down. Smart guy! I always would recommend to surf in Kgalagadi with a car that allows you look OVER the top of bushes - it shows you another world. Like the one of these guys which seemed to have serious issues: Sometimes, issues have to be cleared with a nice fist punch, sometimes with foreheads - easy like that! The third party watched for a while (perhaps the lady??) and left, looking a bit bored.
- To be cont'd but, with pics -

...Counting all the things that happened to you I'm not any more astonished about what happened on Friday, 13th October during the night drive! ...

Following is part of what is supposed to be my TR, telling about the fabulous night drive on Friday 13th:

Checking in at TR on Friday 13th, I ask for a night drive.
Guy at TR reception: "Yes, there is one going tonight, it leaves at 5 pm and bring warm clothes, may be cold tonight."

In time I make it, to meet up with some nice people and a YR: Christelsabine. We leave the camp – just to stop again soon after the gate to receive our first lessons from the guide how to behave, just in case.

Then the guy climbs in the truck – and: no starting. Machine drowned, problems with what? One thing is clear: nothing goes. So he radios TR, tells them to come over with another truck. Luckily they come, bring over a diesel truck, and, being watched over by three rangers, we climb over to the new vehicle.

Starting again, we soon have to stop again: watching three birds. Two Lanner Falcons trying to chase away a Spotted Eagle Owl from their hunting ground. A fascinating sighting.

We start again- or don’t we? Does the engine work? Yes, finally it does.

But our Guide is determined to bring us to the lions tonight, so we go on. First, have a stop for sundowners, a smoke or what else. Then, lights are handed out, to search for animals. That means: sorry, no more pics. I had to point the search lights on the right hand side of the truck…

We see a lot of animals: Springhare, Black Backed Jackals, African Wild Cat.
Guide: “No, sorry, we can’t stop here for long, you understand: the lions are waiting.”

We saw a Cape Fox.
Guide: “Please, just point out and tell me to stop, if there are “important” animals, the lions are waiting.”

So, finally, at Leeuwdril the lions, far away on top of a dune. He kills the engine, we watch the lions for short while and then: back to TR.

On our way back, right at the place where we had our sundowners earlier that day: a Porcupine. He kills the engine once more, climbs out to chase the poor animal, comes back. Does the engine start? First try, second try… I remember the lions, not too far away and start to plan my night outdoors… yes, it does. Thank god, the truck moves. We return just in time for a late night dinner at the restaurant.

Did I enjoy the night drive? Yes, it was nice, meeting CS and the other people, weather was fine and it started of brilliant with the birds. But: I definitely did not enjoy the problems with the truck and the hurry we were in. So hopefully, next year not just the road to TR is in a better state but also the trucks for night drives are. Or was it just bad luck on a black Friday?

thank you so much for your contribution, I fully agree - despite the "motor kills" it could've been a wonderful late drive. It's surprising how many animals are to be seen in the darkness: Never saw African Wild Cat or Porcupine in daylight - they're on the road at night! It needs a bit of time to have a closer look, they do not disappear - one sunset/night drive, we saw a Porcupine mom plus young one: They moved slowly, only ran away when we came too close.... To stay close to the animals (respecting their "feel well" distance), take the time to let everybody watch patiently: That should be job of a guide/driver.

What me concerned were driver's vainly trials to reach TR by radio - it did not work first time near the camp (he finally reached Jannie by cell phone) - and surely would not have worked at second "failure" of motor. That was quite far away from TR camp, so the idea of spending some comfortable night hours in a truck in African wide open popped into my head. Where to spend these hours? Who would be first to look for cover under the bonnet? Surely, plan B perhaps would have meant to organize a nice night walk back to camp

It is, Bushkid, it is ...I'm still ranging a bit beween KTP and KNP for next years' trip - my heart tells me to go to Kalahari again - You cannot compare these places, both of them are absolutely wonderful and worth to come back, no doubt! I'll take the opportunity to proceed with my

Trip Report No. 6

Nossob Road was open. The car under my butt was good enough for every road in Kalahari, high enough to let me have easy views over every bush left and right - the last days simply were a big party of enjoying every bit, every view around me - just like that beautiful guy, walking all alone along the Nossob Road. Red Hartebeest! First one I ever saw and what I was told later, they mainly are to be found much more north! Yeah! A rare sighting! He went along minding his own biz and looked like freshly polished: Beautiful creature!

Near Leeuwdril, the local lazy lion couple relaxed in the shadow

Mata-Mata road still was my favourite, having a look at this pretty little guy and a view over "my" area, where these 2 guys just tried to sort out their issues:

I just was happy to be there. (And as soon as Imageshack allows me to load up again, I'll come back! Stresssful site, that! )- To be cont'd -

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