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Battery removal is very simple, but when you get a new one you need to specify that you have an import, as the battery terminals are on opposite sides on standard batteries. If you don't have any need for a fancy battery, an OEM one, DieHard, Interstate, whatever, they'll all work fine. I'm willing to bet that the OEM battery is as expensive as the others out there, so you might look into an upgrade, but for ease of install you can't beat the OEM.

^^thanks for the detailed help guys. I'll just stop by the dealership today and pick one up.

You guys think it's worth paying $90 to get one from the dealership or is it worth picking up a random battery brand new for $30 (hook up) so long as it fits and the + and - are on the same sides?

Any battery for $30 is not worth the cost of gas to drive and pick it up. The OEM at $90 really isn't a bad price considering the increase in the cost of batteries the last few years. For example, the least expensive battery I sell at my store is $175 (Optima).

So it seems the corrosion on the battery has been getting way worse. At first it barely corroded at all, then it got quite bad and I cleaned it up with baking soda etc, put a bit of anti corrosion stuff on it, and the felt pads. A while later I looked and it was worse than ever had to replace the ground wire as it split the insulation the wire was swelling from corrosion, and the battery was doing worse. Cleaned it up again another bit later I looked and the corrosion was back and even worse and faster growing it seemed.

Do old batteries or ones with leaks corrode faster?

I am about to replace the battery now and am thinking of an optima red top model 35 as it is an AGM type so there is no liquid to leak out etc... will the reduce corrosion? Is there something else I should try to do?

(And it is forming not just on the terminals, but also battery hold down bar).

If it's corroding that much and that fast, you may have a bad cell which is boiling out electrolyte. Also the regulator may be bad and allowing the voltage to run too high which will overcharge the battery and also boil out electrolyte.
You can check the voltage with a meter, with the engine running at operating temperature it shouldn't be more than 14.5V.
If your OEM battery has made it to 75K you're lucky but it would be a good time to replace it. You're correct about an AGM battery not having corrosion issues, since there is no liquid electroylte and they do not vent gas under normal circumstances.

If it's corroding that much and that fast, you may have a bad cell which is boiling out electrolyte. Also the regulator may be bad and allowing the voltage to run too high which will overcharge the battery and also boil out electrolyte.
You can check the voltage with a meter, with the engine running at operating temperature it shouldn't be more than 14.5V.
If your OEM battery has made it to 75K you're lucky but it would be a good time to replace it. You're correct about an AGM battery not having corrosion issues, since there is no liquid electroylte and they do not vent gas under normal circumstances.

Thanks man.

I did check the voltage previously and it was A-OK. I am trying to wait till my CC payment rolls over to buy the new AGM one (so I can pay for it a month later ).