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I have several non-structural vertical mortar cracks in my brick veneer home.Width varies from hairline to a few sections on mitered joints that are missing some pretty good chunks. I've had several brick/mortar people take a look. Most said grind out to a certain depth and repair with mortar though a couple did say it will happen again and to consider letting it ride until such time as the house is for sale. Not selling my house any time soon but I would like to prevent water penetration.

Most of the DIY mortar crack repair stuff seems to be siliconized latex based but I haven't found anything other than concrete colored. My mortar is a very light. Like it's based on white sand almost so it would be an eyesore to use concrete colored stuff.

I came across GE Silicone II mortar repair which is afaict just plain old silicone II with some color. In this case the color matches my mortar very well but it's a little shiny after curing like you would expect.

some questions:
1) Anyone know of a good DIY mortar repair in caulk form that come in colors other than concrete grey?
2) Ok to use the Silicone II?
3) If so, can I blow some sand onto the wet caulk to give it a sanded appearance?
4) Anything else to try that is DIY?

Another note about the house. Most of these cracks are on North facing walls so don't get too much direct sunlight. In case U/V breakdown is a concern. I don't need a permanent solution, just something to last a few years and not an eyesore.

Don't use caulk!
You're only creating more work if and when you decide to do it right!
Especially down the road when you realize the caulk looks like s#!t!
Have a brick mason come and point-up your problem areas. Depending on the age of the home- there is the possibility of more cracking. Some of it is natural- but most of it is poor workmanship. Like a lack of brick ties, clogged or non-existant weep holes, moisture infiltration due to poor design or install. And the biggest reason for brick mortar cracks and fractures- lintels not installed properly. Generally it one of three things; no bolts, wrong size bolts, or not enough bolts.
When repairing, the most important thing to do is remove as much mortar as possible in the damaged areas. Then, before applying the new mortar use a polymer based liquid primer (it's used a lot in refinishing concrete, it's milky white when applied but drys clear) on the surfaces first. This will help with adhesion. Don't expect new mortar to match old- but a thorough powerwashing before repairs will help.

Don't use caulk!
You're only creating more work if and when you decide to do it right!...Do It Right the First Time!

I hear you and thanks for the response! So the cost to have a mason do this is about 1K which I can't afford right now. At the same time I can't afford potential water damage due to penetration. I was kind of thinking mid-termish band-aid. Another reason why it seems like using silicone caulk for this is ok is because I believe in my area it's an acceptable expansion joint sealant. Though in this case the sealant is mainly between either side of a mortar crack as opposed to brick in the case of expansion. You think having silicone would make it difficult to use a crack chaser saw to do it right in the future?

I did try a small section with the Light Gray GE Silicone II and I have to say it looks really good. You have really pay attention to notice it's not the same material. I'll need some backer rod for those sections that have a more substantial gap.

You are right on about poor workmanship. That's what it is according to my structural engineer and the masons I have had examine.

So the cost to have a mason do this is about 1K which I can't afford right now.

I think you should get a few more bids. That price quote seems way overboard. It's not like they have to setup an abundant amount of scaffolding. Most of that work- I'm sure- could be done from a ladder.

I just emailed you. Hopefully the email is still good. If you have any questions let me know.

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