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Topic: LG Front Load Washer LE Error code (Read 135176 times)

The specification is 10K ohms measured between each wire which is the hall effect sensor itself. Are you reading 5K ohms or 5 ohms between each wire? Either way, they sound like low ratings since even 5K would be a 50% variance in what the engineers are expecting.

um.... I'm not sure. I've only ever use the ohms setting for basic continuity testing. All I know for sure is that the dial was on 20k and the reading on the screen was literally 5.00.

I wasn't sure if there's a decoder ring to understand the readings between the different Ohms settings. I was expecting it to say 15000 if it was 15k Ohms and 5000 if it were 5k ohms.

So, that hall effect sensor, I'm assuming, is the stator assembly thing I already switched out - so unless I have two faulty ones (the original and replacement) it has to be the harness somewhere. I still haven't taken that out yet.

I cannot speak for how your meter works, but usually I would expect a 'K' to show up on the display when when reading kilo ohms. You have mentioned stator assembly twice, but the stator is the large copper wired unit which is part of the motor, and the hall effect sensor snaps onto it. You said you replaced the sensor already based on a photo you located so I am just making sure we are talking about the same thing. Up until about a year ago, the sensors were the usual cause of the 'LE' error due to manufacturing problems. But having one fail out of the box is a bit of a stretch so I would have a good look at the harness.

I cannot speak for how your meter works, but usually I would expect a 'K' to show up on the display when when reading kilo ohms. You have mentioned stator assembly twice, but the stator is the large copper wired unit which is part of the motor, and the hall effect sensor snaps onto it. You said you replaced the sensor already based on a photo you located so I am just making sure we are talking about the same thing. Up until about a year ago, the sensors were the usual cause of the 'LE' error due to manufacturing problems. But having one fail out of the box is a bit of a stretch so I would have a good look at the harness.

ahh - thanks... yes, my terminology is wrong. I am indeed referring to the little fridge-magnet-like thing that snaps on to the copper wire unit.

I removed the wiring harness (I assume we only care about the 4-wire section that connects the square connector on the PWB to the rectangle connector on the hall effect sensor board)

This particular piece of wiring is connected in the middle by some weird little connector pair. I check all the wiring for continuity and it all checked out fine. I don't see any nicks or obviously damaged areas.

What is confusing me is that with everything connected up (i.e. one end on the PWB and the other end on the sensor) I only seem to get 5k ohms resistance. I'm assuming this is 5k because if I set the multimeter to the 200 setting, I get nothing, but if I bump it to the 200k setting it goes up to 5. I get the same behavior whether using the old sensor or the new one.

If I disconnect the connector from the PWB and put the probes directly inside the connector, the reading goes up to 10k. Again, same behaviour from both old and new sensors. I've also had 2 new PWBs in this thing. I returned the first one to be safe because it was used.

So the only thing not switched out between them is the wiring - but if I get a continuity-success, could it still be bad? Could it be the actual connector itself?

Sounds like a wiring or connector problem now. If you get the correct readings at the board, but something different at the sensor itself, that will leave the harness as the problem. Just because you have continuity doesn't guaranty a proper reading at the other end. I just worked on a refrigerator that was to cold and when I checked the thermistor, I had the correct readings, but when it was checked through the harness, the resistance changed giving the control board the wrong reading. Any inconsistency in the resistance will be interpreted as a problem, so it could be something as simple as a poorly fitting connector, or a wire that has an internal break in the strands. Either way, I think you are looking in the right area.

I don't have the manual for your model handy so I am not sure which one you would need, but I do find most of the drawings provide little guidance in describing wiring harnesses. Depending on the cost, I would get both and replace them as a set as I am thinking one will be the upper portion while the other is the lower. Speculating of coarse.

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just to make sure I'm not high, is this what I do for the first check?

i) remove the blue/white/red/gray connector from the main PWBii) turn power to the washer oniii) with my multimeter set to 20 DC voltage, stick the prongs in the squares where the white and gray cable should beiv) expect to see 10 --> 15vdc in the reading

I do suspect the board is bad as I know for sure that partstore sent me a used item. The previous purchaser left the RMA in the static bag it came in.

For the second test, do the same thing but measure between blue and gray while turning the drum. Hope to see a pulsing 10VDC... Repeat with red and gray

I think I'll get this done first before continuing with the rest.

I've got a similar problem with my LG Washer...No Power, replaced Main Board, Filter Assembly, and Display.......still no power to machine

I've got a similar problem with my LG Washer...No Power, replaced Main Board, Filter Assembly, and Display.......still no power to machine

Looking into Sensor switch and trying to test...

Did you replace?

Were u able to solve your problem?

My initial problem was no power to the washer... so I followed the service manual which said to look for a little red led in the middle of the Main PWB. If it wasn't lit, the recommendation was to replace it (Main PWB). I replaced it and thought I'd solved all my problems as the washer turned on immediately but that led me to a problem where the drum doesn't turn.

So, to answer your questions, I replaced the Main PWB (which allowed the machine to turn on) and I've also replaced the Hall Sensor assembly (the fridge magnet type thing that connects to the stator)

I thought about replacing that item you linked to but I'm not exactly sure what it is. I think it might be the sensor that detects whether the washer is level or not.

Personally, I think you need to get the power problem sorted as it seems that anything else will be a guess without getting the readings from the Main PWB. Then again, I've pretty much learned everything I know about this washer from TechnicianBrian so he's the expert, not me.

Here is the ball sensor/level sensor thing that I have ordered. Seems to be a component to machine is level machine. I also order a pressure switch. This is the thing that hangs off the main board that links air hose to bottom of drum.

I had a similar problem with an occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin. Found the Red wire going to the Hall sensor was intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. My problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!

I had a similar problem with an occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin. Found the Red wire going to the Hall sensor was intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. My problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!

The washer only uses a small amount of water to do them clothes, you go puttin in more the what we have stated and she goonn go into SUDS meltdown.

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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

Laundry soap companies tell us to use X amount of soap to wash our clothes. The smell you are smelling is the perfume added to the soap so you THINK it is clean. Even top load washers are being over filled with soap. Ever seen the insides of a 20 year old washer tub?

Hey, I hear you on that, and I also realize how detergent makers want you to use more than needed--it's in their best financial interest.

But on the flip side, I've experienced dingy laundry too often when I skimp. Not saying "fill Tide's detergent cup to the to top" but am saying that 1-2 tbsp is less than what I used to get even dingy detergent.

I knew after searching this site I would find the answer to my question.

Neighbor has a LG WM0532HW washer with the LE error code Im helping her with. I started it in a normal cycle and when the motor starts to aggitate, it sounds like a motor that the start winding wasnt disconnecting. I checked the motor, windings are good. I checked the harness, its good. My first thought was the hall effect sensor. I was thinking it is giving the board a reading that the motor hasnt started or its trying to start thus the growl and buzz sound I heard.

Going back to check that board before the neighbor throws parts at it.

In regards to the picture that you posted, how did the cord get burnt? Is that something that is normal to happen with those washers? I have one of those front loaders, and glad to know that it will error out before trying to run a full cycle with problems.

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