Newly opened restaurants take most of the credit for sculpting changes to any city's dining scene, and as expected they attract the most attention from the local foodarazzi. But while the restaurant cognoscenti clamor for tables at the soon-to-come Uchi downtown, diners along Lovers Lane will have been experiencing a cross section of the Austin restaurant temple for months now. On rare occasions, an old horse rises up to reinvent itself, and in this way Shinsei is poised to become a hidden gem.