Description

To find this route, please use the directions in "Abracadabra". From Abracadabra, walk west about 20 feet and up onto a big tilted belay slab. From here, you can peer down into a pit, from which a nice bolted chimney ascends on the left side. This route is basically to the right of "Chomping at the Bit (13b).

If I were to name this route, I would probably call it "The Fischer Price My First Chimney Route". This makes a pretty decent first chimney due to the fact that, should you tire of chimney-suffering, there are great face holds and you can pretty much stem the heck out of it. However, if you want to get ready for pretty much any classic long route....

Protection

Approximately 6 or 7 bolts and anchors. If you want to drag your dusty old Big Bros out of the closet, go ahead.

The name of the route is "Coffee Bitch" bolted by Charlie Kardaleff summer of 2000. It was originally bolted as a stemming problem which seemed to be about 10a, but as this page shows it probably just depends on how you do it.

This was a very awkward route and I'd recommend skipping it. Rather than chimney-ish, it almost felt off-width at parts. At one point I climbed into the crack and thought I was going to be lodged forever. I clipped from around the corner, unable to see. The route looked much more "obvious" from the ground. I'd much rather climb Boss Method (5.8), The North Face of CEP (5.7) or Period Piece (5.8) for a warm-up or for practice. It's not da' bomb, but it's a bomb if you ask me. 5.8+ because I don't have a good feeling otherwise. Heck, even Abracadabra (5.9) a few routes over felt easier - much more aesthetic moves.

I had a great time doing the route as an offwidth fully inside the crack that penetrates the wall. You can reach out and clip from inside. But if you hate cracks or don't like chimneys, then you might want to pass on this one.

It's a unique route, that's for sure. It doesn't get any stars in the book, and I understand, for like somebody already said, it's not very aesthetic. On the flip side, it is a consistently overhanging face adjacent to both an offwidth/chimney and a dihedral--something you won't find every day. I would only call it a 5.7 in the sense that every move is solid, but most of them are funky, and it's quite pumpy, too. In short, I wouldn't recommend it as a first lead unless you're trying to scare the person out of climbing forever, but it's worth it for the adventure factor.