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brisket and bean chili chunks of leftover brisket make this chili much more interesting than one made with ground beef. if you don’t have time to cook beans, skip that step and use 3 cups drained and rinsed canned beans instead. Serves 4 to 6 FOR THE BEANS 1 cup dried pinto or kidney beans 1 large yellow onion, chopped 2 large cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. dried oregano Kosher salt FOR THE CHILI 3 Tbs. olive oil 2 large yellow onions, chopped 4 large cloves garlic, minced 3 Tbs. ancho chile powder (see note) 1 Tbs. dried oregano 1 Tbs. ground cumin ¼ tsp. cayenne Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes 1 12-oz. bottle lager beer (such as Corona) 1 6-oz. can tomato paste 1 lb. leftover brisket (recipe, p. 58), cut into ½-inch dice (about 4 cups), plus 1½ cups leftover brisket juices Dash balsamic or red wine vinegar (optional) PREPARE THE BEANS in a medium bowl, soak the beans in enough water to cover by at least 2 inches, and refrigerate overnight. Drain the beans and put them in a medium saucepan. cover with fresh cold water by about 1 inch. Add the onion, garlic, and oregano. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes. Add 1 tsp. salt and continue to simmer until tender, about 30 minutes more. Drain and set aside. MAKE THE CHILI Heat the oil in a heavy-duty 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and pale gold, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic, chile powder, oregano, cumin, cayenne, 1 tsp. salt, and 1 tsp. black pepper and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and their juices, beer, and tomato paste. Add the brisket and its juices, bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low. Simmer, covered, until the meat is meltingly tender and the sauce is flavorful, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and vinegar, if the chili needs some acidity for balance. Serve the beans on the side, or stir them into the chili and simmer for about 15 minutes before serving. Serving suggestion: The garnishes are half the fun. Serve with warm corn tortillas, sour cream, sliced avocado, salsa, and minced onion and cilantro. if you’re not from Texas, you may want to serve rice with the chili. Note: if you can’t find ground ancho chile powder, use regular chili powder instead and reduce the oregano and cumin to 11/2 tsp. each. Add cayenne to taste. Joyce Goldstein is the former chef-owner of San Francisco’s Square One restaurant. Her latest book, tapas: sensational small Plates from spain, is due out this spring.