Love, Tilly Devine’s new chapter

Author: Emma Breheny
Photography: Nikki To

12:00AM, Oct 26, 2017

The Sydney wine bar has recharged the batteries and pivoted
towards local vintners.

Darlinghurst wine bar Love, Tilly Devine is back open for
business after a quick refresh of its menu, wine list and look. The
same winning formula of the last seven years remains, but the bar
has tightened its focus on Australia's blossoming natural wine
movement and developed a more local and sustainable food offer.

"We're not trying to reinvent Love, Tilly Devine as much as take
it back to the way it was when we first opened," says owner Matt
Swieboda.

Swieboda, who opened a second bar, Dear Sainte Éloise, this year, is bringing
Éloise partners Nathaniel Hatwell and Jasmin Natterer back to where
it all began, with the trio sharing floor duties while Dear Sainte
Éloise chef Ben Abiad will add the bar menu at Love, Tilly Devine
to his brief.

Buffalo mozzarella, peas and
dragoncello sauce.

The bites will be more vegetable-led, with Abiad taking a strong
interest in the sustainability of Australia's farming practices,
including the resources involved in raising meat.

To that end, you'll see the likes of broad beans and roast
asparagus dressed with salmoriglio, or a dollop of buffalo
mozzarella with peas sitting on dragoncello sauce. The charcuterie
comes from Pino's, the bread from Iggy's and the oysters are farmed
to order for the bar by Cummins Seafood. Abiad is also
experimenting with ferments like celery hearts, onions and chilli,
which can be ordered on their own but also show up in the snapper
crudo with crisp rye bread.

Cheeses are sourced from
producers such as Milawa Cheese and Binnorie Dairy.

The bar now pours mainly Australian wines, and Swieboda is keen
to showcase up-and-coming producers he's found during three months
of research and sourcing.

"We were the first client for James Erskine [of South Australian
winery Jauma] in 2010," Swieboda says. "It's been
great seeing people we love and respect progress in their careers
and to feel like we're along for the ride."

Expect newcomers such as Yarra Valley maker Ephemera Wines and
the Adelaide Hills' Borachio alongside Dormilona, Momento Mori and
Manon. International wines are there to provide a point of contrast
to the Australian expressions of classic varieties.

Prosciutto, melon and smoked
mascarpone

The space itself has had a simple touch-up, with new wallpaper
designed by illustrator Adriana Picker featuring on one wall. "It
feels like the place I would like to go now that I'm a bit older,"
Swieboda says.

And for the first time the bar will open on Monday nights.

Love, Tilly might have been a mainstay of Sydney's wine bar
scene for the last seven years, but it sounds like it's just
getting comfortable. Here's to seven more.