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ARG7200W (P1143316N W) Amana Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for ARG7200W parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Oven not working but broiler was working fine.

Checked lower oven burner for a problem. Oven Ignitor looked like it was glowing and working properly but the gas valve would not open to let the gas flow to burner. I had read on a forum that just because the oven ignitor looks good does not mean it is creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve. So I took my chances and replaced the ignitor (because it was cheaper than the gas valve) and now the oven works like new.

Oven wouldn't heat. Glow ignitor was weak and wouldn't ignite flame.

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

Igniter glows, oven won't light

I removed the cover over the flame diffuser, then removed the single nut holding the diffuser to the burner assembly. After removing the three screws from the igniter assembly I found I couldn't reach the connector for the igniter.I removed the storage tray underneath and found a cover towards the rear of the oven with two screws. After removing this piece I could easily disconnect the igniter. It was a bit difficult replacing this shield as it had to fit between two other pieces on the side towards the front of the oven.I slid the guard from the old igniter and put it on the new piece and just reversed the procedure. Relatively easy and saved me a bundle!

Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each) and disconnecting electrode wires as I pulled them out, removed the stove top, unscrewed the old module, removed the 6 wires, connected wires to the new module, screwed it into place, reinstalled the top while poking the electrode wires through the top one by one, put the stove top in place, connected the wires to the burner discs. Done, and it works! It took longer to find and order the part than it did to change it out.

I opened the oven and cleared the racks;removed the cover of the oven heating area;took off the nut holding the blast shield on;removed all the screws holding the drip tray on;some were quite rusty and fell out in my hand;removed the 2 screws holding the igniter in; and the one scew that allows adjustment;pulled out the igniter and noticed the old one was connected with wire nuts while the new one had a module plug;cut off the module plug and stripped back the wires;applied the wire nuts;stuck the wires back in tjhe hole and screwed it all back together-done,I must say the best part of the repair was googling the problem "amana oven ignition troubleshooting" and getting a helpful discussion of the problem and a solution and a link to the parts suply house, It couldn't have been simpler. I got the part 2 days after ordering it online.

Remove the two screws from the burner assembly (on top of the burner). Lift burner assembly from the cook top. Disconnect the electrode wire from the electrode. Remove the screw holding the electrode to the burner assembly (on bottom of burner). Install the new electrode and attach the electrode to the burner assembly. Attach the electrode wire to the electrode. drop the burner assembly back into position on the cooktop. Attach the burner assembly using two screws.

I could not figure out how to get to the igniter until I went to the "Part Select" web site and found a post that was exactly like the problem that I had. IE: Remove two screws holding each burner, Lift off top, remove old igniter being "Carefull" not to mix up the wires when putting them on the new one, installed new igniter in bracket and mounted in position, Reinstalled top and PRESTO - it worked. First post was VERY HELPFUL. Thank you

I thought the problem was with the ignitors/burners since they appeared to be worn. As it turned out, I needed the spark ignitor, which is a "brain box" located under the range cover. It connects all of the ignitor/burners and sends current to the ignitors to give it the "spark" to ignite the gas. It was really easy to replace.

replaced top burner - in theory simple, but severe rusting of two screws holding the burner required drilling and extracting with a screw extractor. The screws broke requiring that the entire burner pan assembly be taken apart to remove the broken nubs of screws from behind with vice grips. Recommend that you have proper sized pan head screws available when you start job so it can be finished in one sitting. Burner starts perfectly now.

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

Oven ignitor stopped working (does this every 6-7 years)

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

Replace the dual gas valve assembly for both the broiler and oven by removing the lower drawer. Then removing the drawer's right side sliding bar, and turning off the gas at the input to the valve assembly (a small part between the valve assembly and the inlet gas tube). Then unscrew the two outlet gas tubes and the gas inlet shut off assemble. Then remove the holding brackets to remove the valve assembly. I found that when the new gas valve was replaced, if the oven still does not turn on, you have to adjust the gas outletto the oven by using an allen wrench inserted into the opening of the outlet valve of the valve assembly. It has to be done several times at small incremental turns (about a 1/4 turn at a time) to get the right amount of gas flow and have it completely shut off when the oven is turned off. I found this out by taking the old valve apart of see how it works.