A Surfing Lesson from Rory Kennedy

When you think about a movie about surfing—big waves, Hawaiian beaches, preternaturally tan people performing physical marvels—you don’t necessarily think Rory Kennedy. After all, the Emmy-winning, Oscar-nominated filmmaker has become known for movies that tackle thorny, socially-pressing issues, like 2013’s Last Days in Vietnam and 2007’s Ghosts of Abu Ghraib. (Another of her most memorable was 2012’s Ethel, a touching biopic of her mother, Ethel Kennedy.)

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Rory Kennedy and Laird Hamilton at the Sundance Film Festival last January.

Maarten de Boer/SAGF/Contour by Getty Images

And while Kennedy’s latest documentary, Take Every Wave: The Life of Laird Hamilton(out September 29), does indeed focus on the fascinating world of surf culture—and, specifically, on the incredible life of the legendary surfer Laird Hamilton—this is no Beach Blanket Bingo. The movie follows Hamilton through a difficult childhood, shows him becoming one of the world’s most recognized athletes, and lays bare the sacrifices he’s made in order to rise to the top of his field.

We spoke to Kennedy about what drew her to Hamilton and her own experiences riding a wave.

This movie feels like a departure from your previous work. What’s the genesis of a Rory Kennedy film about Laird Hamilton?

I was approached by a mutual friend of mine and Laird who had the idea of doing a documentary. I think he thought of it as sort of an interesting mash-up. I have done a lot of documentaries over the course of my career but mostly focused on social issues. And I had met Laird a couple of times because we live within a few miles of each other in California. I was actually, I will admit, a little resistant at first because I wasn’t that interested in making just a surf film. Although I love surf films, they require a certain amount of time and investment and I wasn’t sure I could do it.

What won you over?

I got to know Laird more and understand his story. I felt like there was a really great film and a great story to be shared, and one that I felt would appeal to both surfers and to a much wider audience. To me, Laird is one of the great individualists—he’s really forged his own path. He is somebody who, in addition to doing extraordinary things on the water and riding some of the biggest waves ever recorded, has also profoundly changed the sport over the last 40 years or so, probably more than any other individual.

Rory Kennedy and Laird Hamilton.

Courtesy

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How is making a movie like this different for you than your previous work?

Part of the appeal of the project for me was that I love the water. I love the ocean, I grew up on the water, so I have a deep appreciation for it. I grew up in a house where we were surrounded by great athletes and people who really pushed the limit of whatever they were doing. So, I have, I would say, some sort of natural appreciation for some of the qualities that Laird has. There were certain challenges with this film, you know, like how am I going to capture a guy on an 80-foot wave. How does one film that? Do we use drone, do I go out on a jet ski, are we on a helicopter, do we use a boat? Those were all interesting and new challenges for me and I really loved it. I loved trying to figure that out and looking at footage of what other people have done, and figuring out what worked and what didn’t, and trying to make the best film that we could make.

Laird Hamilton in Take Every Wave.

Courtesy

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Beyond what the movie says about Laird and his life, it also shines a light on the world of surfing. What did you learn about that?

Surfing is an interesting sport; one of the things about it is that you can’t really schedule it. So it really does not lend itself to a conventional lifestyle because, you know, if you’re working nine to five, the tides might not be right. I think for people who’re really committed to it, they have to decide to have a life without a job that’s conventional because it gets in the way of surfing.

Are you any good at it?

No. I moved out to California from Brooklyn about eight years ago and I’ve tried it. I enjoy it but I don’t think anyone would argue that I’m a great surfer. It’s fun though!

Laird Hamilton in Take Every Wave.

Courtesy

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When you make a film about a person, what’s it like to finally show it to him?

It’s very different, very intense! I asked a mutual friend of ours who has screening room in the house if we might be able to use that, so we did that. Laird had some of his friends there. It was a very long hour and 45 minutes watching it with him because he hadn’t seen any of it and had no idea what we were doing. I hadn’t told him anything!

How did he take it?

Laird was kind of sweet about it. I think he got emotional.

What’ll be next for you? Are you going in a completely different direction?

I’m doing a documentary right now about NASA. I’m going from the depths of water out into outer space.

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