How to change the clutch on a gravely ZTR 260z. What keeps the clutch from spinning around on the engine shaft? A diagram of the clutch assembly would help. Instruction on removing and reinstalling might help.

There is an "anchor" that bolts to the chassis, and it has a rod-like part that sticks up to engage a notch in the PTO clutch to keep it from spinning. Look here -- there are parts diagrams for your mower (find the right model number) that will help a lot. Good luck!

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The Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) Front Axle consist of the following components:
• Differential Carrier Housing
• Differential Case Assembly
• Inner Axle Shaft
• Intermediate Shaft Bearing Assembly (located on the right side of the oil pan)
• Electric Motor Actuator
The front axle on Selectable Four Wheel Drive (S4WD) model vehicles uses a disconnect feature mounted on the right side of the oil pan in order to engage and disengage the front axle. When the driver engages the 4WD system, the Transfer Case Control Module sends a signal to the electric motor actuator to energize and extend the plunger inside. The extended plunger moves the clutch fork and clutch fork sleeve across from the clutch fork outer gear that is splined to the right side wheel drive shaft to the clutch fork inner gear that is splined to the inner axle shaft. The locking of the two gears allows the axle to operate in the same manner as a semi-floating rear axle. A propeller shaft connects the transfer case to the front axle. The differential carrier assembly uses a conventional ring and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the engine to the wheels. The open differential allows the wheels to turn at different rates of speed while the axle continues to transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing when going around corners and premature wear on internal axle parts. The ring and pinion set and the differential are contained within the carrier. The axle identification number is located on top of the differential carrier assembly or on a label on the bottom of the right half of differential carrier assembly. The wheel drive shafts are completely flexible assemblies consisting of inner and outer constant velocity CV joints protected by thermoplastic boots and connected by a wheel drive shaft.

Check to see if there is any material collected around the base of the head, around the tube that provides the energy to spin. It may cause the power to be diminished a great deal, so that must be cleaned away thoroughly. Check to see if you can spin the head freely by your hand, without the motor being on. If not, it may need lubrication down the indide of the power shaft. A light grease would do that, or even a heavy oil poured down the shaft, but not too much.

sounds like your electric clutch is prob bad check to make sure wires are not bare touching something, the clutches do go bad eventually like any other electrical part, disc the pigtail and try fuse, if it blows then I would consider a clutch

I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Hi, Check the block assembly that slid on top the basket drive shaft. It might have came loose. Make sure the tabs on the shaft slide into the slots in the block. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.