If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. That’s what most assumed would happen at Yves Saint Laurent, but when Hedi Slimane took the helm, he overhauled everything, even though most people didn’t see anything broken about the brand. And now that he’s settled in his groove — quite literally, since Slimane is mining the music world season after season — we’ve come to expect a festival-style fashion show celebrating the world of rock ‘n’ roll no matter what trends are popping up on runways elsewhere. This time around, after dabbling in Stevie Nicks-bohemia and Sunset Strip glam rock, Slimane is turning to the world of grunge. But it’s a far cry from Marc Jacobs’ now-iconic Perry Ellis collection or Anna Sui’s fanciful takes on ’90s florals. Slimane channeled Courtney Love for what’s sure to be one of his most memorable collections to date.

Saint Laurent Spring 2016

That’s right: Memorable. For those who think Saint Laurent’s latest collections are just a jumble of denim, plaid and Liberty florals, think back and there will be some definite standouts. And like the Stevie hats and pussy-bow tops of his debut and the glittered pumps of last year, the tiaras, slipdresses and wellies of spring 2016 will be one for the books.

While other brands are struggling with designer musical chairs, finding a renewed identity and the all important aspect of making money, Saint Laurent is ringing up profits and clearly cemented itself as a label where cool people buy cool clothes. And next year, those cool kids are going to be wearing a tiara with everything, including flannel shirts, denim overalls and Glastonbury-ready rain boots. Sure, you’ve got Hunter boots in your closet, but do they have the pedigree of Hedi Slimane? We didn’t think so. Courtney Love may seem like an odd muse, but her signature style hasn’t changed in decades and her lingerie-as-daywear, oversized moto jackets and vintage-inspired looks were all on the runway. Why dig through thrift stores when Hedi is designing the perfect flannels and babydoll dresses? But on the other hand, why pay quadruple digit prices for what’s essentially new vintage? It’s that ethos that’s been with SLP since day one of the Slimane overhaul, and it’s not going anywhere as long as people keep buying.

Saint Laurent Spring 2016

But that’s not to say there was nothing special. Furs and feathers were utterly amazing — we’re waiting for those to hit the street style set for some real eye-catching photos — while glitter, velvet burnout and sequins made the slipdress something truly special. Sure, you can snag something from the vintage bins, but it’s not going to have the sheen and sparkle of couture-level handwork. And it’s those touches that made this collection, so seemingly simple and straightforward, something to remember. So no, nothing was broken, so Slimane and Saint Laurent didn’t change a thing: and for that, the cash registers are sure to ring.