I bought Nickel Anti-Seize to prevent any corrosion issues between metals, and I generally like using it on my vehicles on bolts and anything I plan on removing later. I'm wondering where it would be appropriate for me to use Anti-Seize instead of grease on my bicycle, and where it would be considered a 'no-no.' The nickel type is very corrosion resistant, and temperature resistant to 2400 degrees.

My current thinking would be along these lines:

Desirable

Threaded Headset

Bottom Bracket Threads

Lightly on seatpost?

Cantilever brake mounts

Disc brake pivot points?

Threads on QR skewers / seatpost clamp

Other bolt threads

Maybe ???

Headset Bearings ???

Bottom Bracket Bearings ???

Hub Bearings ???

Inside fork tubes ??? (I have prothane grease because I have elastomers, but perhaps in spring forks it might be ok)

2 Answers
2

There is no simple rule that says here is ok but here is not.You don't want to use it on any bearings as the lube.I have used on bearing races at the mating surface,where the race presses into the frame.You can use it on the seat tube,crank arms are ok but not the crank arm bolts. Use it pretty much any place metal parts are pressed together.You want to avoid the threads of critical fasteners as it can allow them to loosen over time.On quick release skewers antisieze on the shaft is ok,but avoid the threaded portion.Also avoid the clamp sections of the stem,you want a tight grip between the stem and the bars and the stem and the steerer tube.I guess the easiest way to think about where to use is any place that has a close tolerence fit that is subject to corrosion but in everyday use doesn't move.

You have it basically backwards. Anti seize is designed for threaded fixing systems and non moving parts. Telling someone to avoid threads with anti seize is like saying avoid using your derailleur to shift. That job is the whole point of the tool.
–
zenbike♦Apr 15 '12 at 19:56

You don't need to adjust the torque spec. It doesn't change. What does change is the limiting friction, and thus (possibly) how fully engaged a fastener is at a given torque. You can adjust torque lower if you use a friction paste, as on carbon to carbon interfaces, usually about 15 %lower. These days though, manufacturers usually specify type of of lubricant or paste or antiseize or loctite along with the correct torque used. Adjustment shouldn't be necessary.
–
zenbike♦Apr 16 '12 at 2:51

It is not a lubricant. Generally, using it on threaded parts is acceptable, but using it on bearing races, bearings, pressfit installation points, seatposts, handlebar stems, etc... is not a good idea.

There is no hard and fast rule, but if you think about the purpose of the "lubricant" on the specific part, you should be able to make a good judgement.

i.e. "Do I need lubrication for this part to move smoothly and work efficiently? If so, I should use grease."

or

"Do I need lubrication for this part to so that it is not stuck in the frame later? If so, I could use anti-sieze."

A simple rule could be: between surfaces without relative movement while working (only during assembly/disassembly) use anti-seize. On surfaces with relative movement while working you should use lubricants. And between surfaces that move under load (specially bearings, which have point-contact), you need a high-viscosity lubricant, such as grease or thick oil.
–
heltonbikerApr 14 '12 at 15:00

Care to provide any speculation on the implications of using Anti-Seize in bearings or for high-movement components? I'm tempted to try it on something just to see what happens.
–
EhrykSep 23 '14 at 21:55