93 Aerostar XLT Sliding Door - problems with latch?

This sliding door will not open unless I go in through the inside and pull on a rod. Outside handle doesn't help. Once I can get it loose the door slides just fine. So the door does not seem to have a tracking problem. Often though when not closed all the way the door had to be bumped to close it all the way. The latch is at the rear of the door - not up at the passenger side seat. What I think I ned to find is some instructions that will tell me how to reach that latching mechanism from the inside of the door. I can't tell whether there is something broken or not. I would appreciate any help.

Wish I has seen your message sooner. DON'T wait until you can't open the door at all. Here's what happened to me. There is an adjustment on the rod linkage (at the forward end of the activation rod) that you can use to get more "push" into the latch but it's basically a sign that the latch (at the rear of the door) is wearing out. Buy a new one and replace it!!! There's a little activation arm that may be getting bent but, trouble is, if you wait until it bends so much it's really hard to get the door open from the inside (taking up slack with the adjustment seems to bend it even more). I can't even remember how I did it (got it open). Plus I managed to put a reverse dent in the door from prying on the inside.

On my '89 I had a similar symptom: I could open the sliding door via the outside handle, but I had to jerk it hard. I lived with it for two years, it just didn't bother me enough, but eventually I bought a replacement handle from the junkyard on the advice of someone here, one that wasn't as loose, but that didn't change my symptom.

The real problem was that the rod which runs from the forward handle mechanism to the rear latch is supposed to run through a circular plastic guide in the center of the door, and though the guide was there, the rod wasn't in it. So, when I'd operate the outside handle, that rod would deflect somewhat instead of pushing the rod as far as it should.

I put my old handle back in (two 10mm nuts from the inside of the door), got the rod back into the circular plastic guide, and it all works like new now.

See also [link:www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/aerostar/450.html|http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/aerostar/450.html]

I just got my door open. In my case and probably yours the latching mechanism operating lever bracket gets bent over time allowing it to slip past the end of trip lever. To get the door open I had to first drill and grind out an inspection hole in the back inside of door panel approximately in line with the releasing rod to be able to grab it with neavy needle nose pliers as close to the latching mechanism as possible. First pull the wire forward levering the pliers against hole in the panel to pull the actuating lever past the trip lever to the normal operating position ( you should feel it slip by the tripping mechanism) and then while pulling the rod towards you with the pliers ( this ensures that the operating lever fully engages with trip leverdue to slop in the operating lever pivot pin) push the rod backwards until latch pops open. I will take a picture of latching mechanism and send if you e-mail me.
Lou
e-mail: louisheli@att.net

I wish I would have read this a few days ago. I got ticked at the door for not shutting all the way and slamed it. Now forget it, I can't get it open to save my life. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Originally posted by Curtfish I wish I would have read this a few days ago. I got ticked at the door for not shutting all the way and slamed it. Now forget it, I can't get it open to save my life. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Take a look at the other door latches and see how the operate. The C-shaped latches normally close around the shank of the pin. But if the door is slammed REALLY hard, it may flex the track enough to misalign and the head of the pin gets jammed between the C-latches - one C closes on the shank and one is off the end of the pin altogether.

I guarantee you will bend the release lever on the latch trying to open it. TRUST ME!

You will need to take off the lower inner panel and cut a hole in the inner sheet metal big enough to get your whole hand in. The rod pushes the lever on an angle and if the latch is jammed, the lever bends outward. Bend it back toward you and while you are holding it, have a helper pull the handle. It will take a fair bit of force. Be careful that the door doesn't slide open with your hand still in the hole. You'll lose enough skin doing this. Try not to lose too much blood. It's a good idea to have the window open and have the helper push the door forward while pulling the handle rearward. Long sleeves and a few rags around your wrist are a good idea.

I took the track off the van after unjamming the door for the third or fourth time. I welded a tab to the end where the track hooks into the door opening and added a couple of screw to support that end of the track. In my case the track was flexing downward with the weight of the door and the latch was hitting the pin too low. Which led to slamming the door really hard, which led to the latch jamming on the head of the pin, which led to reaching in through the jagged hole in the sheet metal, which led to loss of skin and blood, which led to cursing and swearing, which led to the fix mentioned above.

I have a 96 Aero the door latch was stuck, I had to remove the interior panel and pull the latch linkage and sorta kick the door from the inside to open. the linkage needed to be punched then pulled to make it work.
Finally I replaced the latch and that fixed the problen, now it snaps open with very little force and works very well, the latch was about 27 bucks at a Arizona ford dealer online site.
realing the door so the latch clears cleanly when closing. I used a ratchting cargo strap in the seatbelt loop to hold the door up and tightened the screws to the upper rollers assy

My door was giving me a problem, found out the "plastic bushing" around the locking pin that's on the "B" pillar was missing. Picked up new bushings at NAPA. Mark around the pin with a pencil before removing so you can get it lined up.

my bushing was broken so I took it off but it did not affect the operation of the door latch, it did keep the door from rattling against the latch pin, I paid about $18 for it and when I was looking for a T50 Torx driver for it I found one at Autozone for about $9

Hi everyone just thought that I would put my 2 cents in. Had the same problem. Used a 3 inch hole saw to cut an access pane at the rear of the door, garbed the actuator rod with a pair of vice-grips, push back on it and POOF! the door came open. I could have just adjusted the rod (like”biederboat” posted). You can easily access this adjustment by removing the outside handle. You will also need to remove the center plastic guide while you make the adjustment. Don’t forget to put the plastic guide back in before you try it. I tested my latch by using a deep well socket for the latch to close around with the door open. The door works well now.

That worked a few times so I thought it was fixed, but it was hard to actuate. so I took the latch off and lubed it . lubed everything! no better. I worked the latch and found that sometimes only one of the garbbers would flip open. The latch is rivited so opening the latch to fix it was not a option. Replacement was cheap enough and the door latch opens with a light pressure and a nice crisp click!
Alignment is important to keep the door from banging on the pin and damageing the latch again.

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