June 24, 2018

Peru Invades Russia. Well, at Least Many of Its Fans Have.By Tariq Panja

By Tariq Panja

SARANSK,
Russia — Augusto Caceres, 81, had all but given up hope of seeing his
beloved Peru at a World Cup again during his lifetime.

He
has been to 13 straight World Cups, beginning with the 1970 tournament.
And for much of that time, Peru had failed again and again to make it
to soccer’s biggest showcase. Still, Caceres kept going, and hoping that
Peru might somehow be a part of the World Cup for the first time since
1982. And now Peru is.

Dining in a
restaurant here on Friday, a day before Peru made its return to the
World Cup in a frustrating 1-0 loss against Denmark, Caceres spoke about
his adventures, of the great players and the great teams he has seen
over the years, and of Peru’s continued absence from it all.

“I
went back home every year and they didn’t improve,” he said, recalling
all the years of failure and of the Peruvian national teams that did
play good soccer but had bad luck. “In soccer, you win by scoring goals,
and when 10 years had passed by, I thought they will never make it.”

But
they did, and now Caceres will have a lot of company. For after a
36-year wait, Peruvians are not taking any chances. Who knows how long
it will be until the next World Cup opportunity arises. Better to take
part in this one.

Image

Good
things sometimes come to soccer fans who wait. So Augusto Caceres,
shown at a Saransk restaurant on Friday, will finally get to see Peru
play in the World Cup again.CreditTariq Panja/The New York Times

As a result,
thousands upon thousands of fans from the Andean nation and the greater
Peruvian diaspora have descended on Russia, with more arriving daily,
giving Moscow’s Red Square the air of Lima’s own Plaza Mayor. Even at
the World Cup opener on Thursday, between host Russia and Saudi Arabia,
Peru’s distinct uniform shirt — a white shirt with a red sash — was a
regular presence among the throng.

Francois
Braendle, a Swiss banker based in Russia, said he hadn’t seen anything
quite like the Peruvian invasion. “Honestly, I believe the whole country
of Peru is here,” he said on Thursday. Behind him, in Moscow’s early
evening sunshine, the red-and-white tide marched on toward Nikolskaya
Street, a gathering point for fans from across the world, but another
place where Peruvians now seem to outnumber the rest.

And
before Saturday’s game, the streets of Saransk, the smallest of the
World Cup host cities, were swamped by Peruvians, heralding chance
meetings of friends and neighbors that usually take place an ocean away
in places like Lima, Arequipa and Cusco.

“Everywhere
you go you see someone you know,” said one fan, Balere Ortúzar. Her
uncle Carlos Mariátegui said he had already bumped into 50 people from
back home.

Peru’s presence in the
World Cup was hanging in the balance until the very end of South
America’s qualifying tournament, widely accepted to be the toughest in
soccer. And had Brazil scored either one fewer goal in its 3-0 victory
over Chile, or had Paraguay beaten last-place Venezuela at home
(instead, it lost), Peru would have been shut out of the World Cup
again.

Image

Peru’s players saluted fans of the team during a recent training session in Russia.CreditTatyana Makeyeva/Reuters

But
instead it was Peru that was handed a secondary route into the World
Cup via a playoff game against New Zealand, and its 2-0 victory
unleashed the sort of celebrations one might expect in a soccer-mad
nation. A national holiday was declared, and travel agencies in Peru and
FIFA’s ticketing website were swamped by people wanting to go to
Russia. Officially, in its most recent update, FIFA said it allocated
43,583 tickets to Peruvians, but the real number might be considerably
higher, since those supporting Peru in Russia this week seem to have
come from anywhere and everywhere, including Australia, which Peru will
meet in its final group game.

Being
at the World Cup can be an expensive proposition. Caceres, who splits
his time between a home in Connecticut and Lima, said he spent $2,000
securing resale tickets for Peru’s three group games, starting with its
matchup with Denmark in Saransk on Saturday. He has committed to
spending $20,000 in total.

Already,
there are all sorts of tales of the lengths that Peruvians have gone to
pay for their World Cup odyssey. At least some of those tales, no doubt,
are true. There are the ones about remortgaging a home or selling a
car. And there are the more exotic solutions, such as the one hatched by
Diva Rivera, 24, who is an actress and the owner of a clothing store in
the Amazon city of Iquitos. Rivera started a campaign called “donate
one sol so I can go to the World Cup” and traveled across the country
with a plan to gather one Peruvian sol, the equivalent of 30 cents, from
each person she met.

“It was a
challenge that came about from a kind of fever that arose when the team
qualified for the tournament,” Rivera said in a telephone interview from
Saransk after arriving by train for Peru’s game on Saturday. She was
joined in Russia by a man who was said to have gained 25 kilograms
(about 55 pounds) in three months to qualify for seats reserved for
obese spectators after finding regular seats for Peru’s matches had been
sold out.

“Thirty-six
years,” said Sergio Inamine, 33, his short answer to what has been
described as “una locura,” or a madness, that has descended upon Peru.
“That’s the answer, that’s all you need to know,” added Inamine, who had
traveled from Peru to Moscow and was headed to Saransk.

Peru’s
years of soccer failures came as the country struggled to cope with
political and economic crises as well as a destructive, and prolonged,
guerrilla war with the Maoist insurgent group Shining Path. “Soccer is a
reflection of society, and we were lost, we had terrorism, bombs all
the time, we had the worst presidents, corruption, and sport was
forgotten,” Inamine added.

Failure
to reach the World Cup had become so regular that Peruvians adapted it
as a motif for everyday life, including the repayment of debts, said
Martin Llerena, 33, who was with Inamine. “When you owe someone money it
became usual to say, “I’ll pay you when Peru goes to the World Cup.’ ”

In
a strange twist, the man behind Peru’s renaissance, Coach Ricardo
Gareca, known as el Tigre, is partly responsible for the wait having
been so long. In a World Cup qualification game in 1985, Peru was
leading Gareca’s Argentina, 2-1, when, with the game entering its final
stages, he poked the ball into the net to snatch a 2-2 draw and take
away a place in the tournament from Peru.

It
turned out to be a bittersweet moment for Gareca. When Argentina later
announced its final squad for the 1986 World Cup in Mexico, Gareca was
left off, and he has been waiting to be involved in the event ever
since.

Now
Gareca and a new generation of Peruvian players finally have their
chance, and when they looked up into the stands on Saturday, they were
met by the sight of Peruvians just about everywhere.

Image

On the eve of Peru’s World Cup opener — on Saturday against Denmark — this was the scene in the city center in Saransk.CreditMartin Meissner/Associated Press

This
multitude — including 93-year-old Wyenceslao Ferro, who had never been
to a World Cup — marched on Mordovia Arena in Saransk before the game,
transforming the stadium into the Estadio Nacional del Perú, the Lima
bear pit where the South Americans finally clinched their World Cup
berth.

As a result, ear-piercing
whistles greeted the Danish team as it came out to warm up before the
game. From there, the intensity only increased, even affecting Coki
Gonzales, a well-known commentator from Peru’s Latina Televisión.
Colleagues motioned for him to take deep breaths and drink water so he
could steady himself for the game.

“I
broke down,” Gonzales said later. “I’m 39 years old now, and never seen
Peru at the World Cup. It has been my life’s dream, the most important
moment in my life.”

The emotions
attached to the game even seemed to overcome Peruvian midfielder
Christian Cueva. Given a chance to score Peru’s first World Cup goal in
four decades, Cueva skied a penalty shot over Denmark’s goal just before
halftime. The miss proved costly when Denmark’s Yussuf Poulsen slotted
what would be the only score of the game with 30 minutes left to play.

Denmark’s
goal didn’t dampen the singing in the stands or Peru’s repeated efforts
to find a tying goal, which ultimately came to nothing.

Age
Hareide, Denmark’s coach, said his team almost buckled under the
pressure created by Peru’s fans and players, and described the victory
as a lucky one. Referring to the atmosphere, he said: “We were a little
scared of it, and it did affect us.”

The
Peru circus now moves to Yekaterinburg, where the frenzy will commence
anew on June 21 in a game against imposing France. Peru’s fans will be
hoping their team will still be able to do something it has not managed
since 1982: score a goal at the World Cup. And in the process, maybe
even come up with a victory against the French or at least a tie. Having
traveled all the way from Peru, why think small?