Thanks for your answer!
Well, with converter (3.45v) or without ( 5v) in edp connector with a modded cable, display is working good, the brightness control can only be adjust in control center or with windows battery. The brightness hotkey(s) don't work, that's the only issue reported.
The hotkey FN+f2 to shutdown display is working.

By the way, the laptop is from your great company

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Does LCD fits properly inside or you had to do some mechanical modifications. Which version of BIOS/EC are you using? Make a great video and share your joy of upgrading. Make the difference! Be the First!

Some Mechanical mod needed. To fit it, there is 2 solution i tried: by modding the lcd support, cutting a space both of down support and extend those above. Or The easier way, is taking the frame of lcd from a compatible screen, just putting it arround the new display and glue it or silicon it arround with the frame (where the screen should be fix with screws). we also have to remove the metal frame fixed in barebone because the driver of new screen is down ( not behind the display).
Also, no contact between metal barebone and display. we can use anything such as tape.

My bios is from Prema.
i would love to make a video but i have not such more time for modding this year, i dont even find the time to mod ( dremel) the barebone+heatsink for the msi 1070 gpu.

I haven't posted here in years, but seeing everyone use a buck converter to step the 5V down to 3.3V makes me cringe. The motherboard has a 3.3V vs 5V voltage select. You just have to cut the PLVDD_SEL line and you get 3.3V. This is why LVDS has 3.3V on PLVDD, as the PLVDD_SEL line is missing on LVDS, so the default 3.3V is selected. You just need to make it missing on eDP as well.

I originally tried doing this/something similar (see earlier in the thread). Ultimately it seemed that for some reason, when the 3.3v rail was loaded, the screen would draw too much current and pull the voltage down to about 1.9V which was out of spec for the screen to even turn on.

Its strange because the 3.3v and 5v are generated by the same circuit.. . . Do you have any insight?

I originally tried doing this/something similar (see earlier in the thread). Ultimately it seemed that for some reason, when the 3.3v rail was loaded, the screen would draw too much current and pull the voltage down to about 1.9V which was out of spec for the screen to even turn on.

Its strange because the 3.3v and 5v are generated by the same circuit.. . . Do you have any insight?

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The 1M Ohm resistor R388 used in the absence of PLVDD_sel to pull the signal high to select 3.3V may have too high of a resistance for the power FETs used in the P377SM (design error by Clevo). I'd lower its value. You can just pencil it a little to test this. Make sure PLVDD_sel is not connected.

If this doesn't get you 3.3V then I'd bypass both PLVDD select and 3.3VS circuits and wire straight to the 3.3V power source, called VDD3 in the service manual schematic. Jumper PJ11 would be a good place to solder a wire to. Page 68 has this circuit in the service manual.