View from Uhuru Peak worth the gruelling trek to get there

Barb Jusiak, Special to The Sun10.22.2012

The whole climb is a seven-day unforgettable affair during which one travels through all climate zones starting from the equatorial jungle to the arctic. The trail goes through moon-like landscape where the old lava rock and the scree are the reminders of nature’s force that shaped today’s Africa.Maciej Jusiak

The whole climb is a seven-day unforgettable affair during which one travels through all climate zones starting from the equatorial jungle to the arctic. The trail goes through moon-like landscape where the old lava rock and the scree are the reminders of nature’s force that shaped today’s Africa.Maciej Jusiak

The whole climb is a seven-day unforgettable affair during which one travels through all climate zones starting from the equatorial jungle to the arctic. The trail goes through moon-like landscape where the old lava rock and the scree are the reminders of nature’s force that shaped today’s Africa.Maciej Jusiak

The idea was insane on so many levels that I wouldn’t even know where to start but it happened and we stepped on the proud Uhuru Peak — the Roof of Africa — shortly after the sunrise at 8:15 a.m. on March 22.

The whole climb is a seven-day unforgettable affair during which one travels through all climate zones starting from the equatorial jungle to the arctic. The trail goes through moon-like landscape where the old lava rock and the scree are the reminders of nature’s force that shaped today’s Africa.

On the summit night we went to sleep at 7 p.m. By now, we already knew it was totally possible to go to bed at this time, but still I couldn’t fell asleep. Maybe, because of the expectations of the gruelling night ahead and the stress whether or not we’d be able to make it, or maybe the altitude, or maybe because I just wasn’t sleepy at 7 p.m. after all.

Mike slept like a baby. Listening to his rhythmic breathing — as if there was no shortage of oxygen at 4,600 metres — I chose to close my eyes and think peaceful thoughts interrupted from time to time by short outbursts of the snowstorm. Joseph, our guide, came to check on us a few times. I pretended I was asleep. Finally, at 11:30 p.m. he opened the tent, saying it was time.

Shortly after, we started climbing the mountain following the footsteps of the guide on the pitch black trail. The only thing I could see was the back of his foot lit by my small head lamp. In the distance I could see little flickering dots of the head lamps of the fellow climbers who left Barafu Camp before us.

The temperature was pretty comfortable until 4:30 a.m. when it got bloody cold. They had said that this was going to happen — just before the sunrise. I was putting on all my layers from the backpack. My hands were trembling. In fact, they were so cold that I lost the ability to grasp anything. Water in the camel back froze. Water in the bottles (carried upside down) was starting to freeze as well. The dark and very windy trail was very tough to hike on. Steep and rough terrain covered by slippery scree and some snow.

Lack of oxygen called for a prayer to Kili gods for another set of lungs. General tiredness set in despite the fact that we hiked very slowly — in ‘pole-pole’ style. In fact, pole-pole are the first two words that the guide teaches all the climbers. It means slowly-slowly in Swahili. And he did not joke. He tiptoed to the mountain on the summit night. And sometimes even that was too fast.

At 6:30 a.m. the merciful sun woke up and showed its beautiful, happy face rising over the valley and Mawenzi Peak. It looked stunning — we had to gasp despite the lack of lungs (rather than oxygen in them). Mawenzi is gorgeous and very dramatic — slightly lower than Uhuru it shows its peak rising over the clouds covering the entire valley.

Despite the rays of sunshine, morale was in short supply and the temperature didn’t rise. We opted against taking off any layers. At a snail pace we moved toward Stella Point – the rim of the volcano. Climbers stop here for 10 minutes to rest, catch a breath (as if it was possible at all). For those who chose to end their journey here, there is a sign Stella Peak — 5,795 m where they can take a photo.

For the second time during the climb I stopped to look around. Below us, Mawenzi still looked stunning and proud and unreachable, almost wild. In front of us, the ash pit is covered by snow. To the left, not far away, are blue walls of the slowly receding glaciers. From here, there was still 45 minutes to get to the top, mere 100 m away. The path is not as steep, yet the journey is still gruelling as everyone is exhausted at this point.

We started marching when I heard the voice saying “doing good. it’s worth it!” followed by a grin on the man’s face. Easy for you to say — I thought — but, tried to offer him a smile. It probably came up as a grimace more than a smile.

Finally, after seven hours and 15 minutes we reached the peak at 5,895 m. A giggling Russian group was taking pictures in front of the sign saying Congratulations you are now at Uhuru Peak Tanzania, 5,895 m.

I couldn’t believe we got there, and cried. it was my birthday.

And so, we stood there admiring the world from the top, Africa filled with incredible happiness and love for universe and all beings.

The bliss came quickly to an end as soon as we started our descend to our next camp – 3,000 m below. It was another tough hike — at the end of which I thought I would just sit on any given rock and sleep there. The muscles were trembling.

The tough hike up became even more demanding going down. For the first time we were able to see the path which we hiked up the mountain. It was desolate crossing the barren and unforgiving land with no room for the slightest mistake.

The camp couldn’t materialize before my eyes soon enough. When we got there we did our toilet (washed our hands for the first time after three days) and went to get something to eat. To our surprise there was a bottle of good South African red wine which we shared with the guide and porters. Fell asleep after dinner in a matter of seconds and slept like logs until 6 a.m. when we started descending further.

Comments

We encourage all readers to share their views on our articles and blog posts. We are committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion, so we ask you to avoid personal attacks, and please keep your comments relevant and respectful. If you encounter a comment that is abusive, click the "X" in the upper right corner of the comment box to report spam or abuse. We are using Facebook commenting. Visit our FAQ page for more information.

Almost Done!

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.

Postmedia wants to improve your reading experience as well as share the best deals and promotions from our advertisers with you. The information below will be used to optimize the content and make ads across the network more relevant to you. You can always change the information you share with us by editing your profile.

By clicking "Create Account", I hearby grant permission to Postmedia to use my account information to create my account.

I also accept and agree to be bound by Postmedia's Terms and Conditions with respect to my use of the Site and I have read and understand Postmedia's Privacy Statement. I consent to the collection, use, maintenance, and disclosure of my information in accordance with the Postmedia's Privacy Policy.