Ponce isn’t one to turn away from a challenge (reto). Here he takes on a white grape, Albilla, which is practically unknown in the US, or even Spain, for that matter. If enough people drink Reto, that will change soon, but you’ll have to get it while you can: he only makes 500 cases of it. This is largely due to the miniscule yields he hand-harvests from his 60- to 80-year-old vines, which results in a nervy, concentrated, medium-bodied white with plenty of texture from eight months on the lees. A wine both dry and rich, it shows a palate of white fruits set against a background of sandstone and salinity, with notes of honey and apple skins, and a touch of savory herbs, and a pleasing bitterness on the finish.

Pairing: A wine made for food, it will pair beautifully with red snapper fillets poached in butter, lemon-sage chicken cutlets, or an insalata tricolore.