Setup

Then insert the 2 transparent elements into the 2 holes near the micro USB socket.
(Yes, there are 2 plugs for 4 holes and no instructions.)

Now insert the Raspberry Pi and then insert the SD card.
The contacts should face upwards.
(It is near impossible to the the cards out again.)

After switching it on, you can connect to it via http://octopi.local .

SSH

You can also access the raspberry via SSH

ssh pi@octopi.local

The default password is "raspberry.
The SD card is mounted as /boot
The OctoPrint config file is at "/home/pi/.octoprint/config.yaml"
You can restart the server via "sudo /etc/init.d/octoprint restart"

If your Wifi access point via

sudo sudo iwlist wlan0 scanning | grep ESSID

can't be seen by Linux, run

sudo raspi-config

and select "5 internationalization options" -> "I4 select Wifi locale"
to enable the Raspberry to see all Wifi channels that are legal in your country.

The Raspian I got was very old. I had to provide Internet via Ethernet and do

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade

then it was able to see Wifi networks on Channel 40 (5GHz) and 12+13 (2.4GHz).

GPIO fun

While at the shell, you can have fun with the GPIO pins in Bash.
Sadly you can't set the pull-up resistors from the shell.
However my image came with WiringPi already installed.
It doesn't have a "--help" or a man page on the Pi itself, so here are the basics:

gpio readall

gpio mode (pin) in/out

gpio mode (pin) up/down/tri (set pull up resistors)

gpio read (pin)

gpio write (pin) 0/1

gpio wfi (pin) rising/falling/both (non-busy waiting for a state change)

Cura slicing

Luckily the Bundle comes with thje CuraEngine plugin preinstalled. So slicing it not much of a problem.You can imort your existing 15.x profiles (but not 2.1.1 profiles) in Settings->Plugins->CuraEngine->import profile.

Cura 2.1

The documentation should be here However that's not the whole picture incomplete.
You need an Ultimaker2extended, Ultimaker2Go or Ultimaker2 profile with the reprap g-code flavor to have start and end added to your gcode files including material temperatures, homing and shutdown. Like this one.
To avoid adding files to Cura itself (and keeping them after updating Cura),
you can put your .json files for a new machine definition here:

Due to bug #850, you need to copy the fdmprinter.json, Ultimaker2.json and other files you inherit from into the same directory.

You can also add additional materials (use the existing materials in Cura 2.1.2.app/Contents/Resources/cura/resources/profiles/materials as a reference) to
~/.cura/profiles/materials (OSX)
but
be careful, the file structure is identical to the MATERIALS.txt that
the firmware imports from an SD card but the property and section names
inside are different. Strange design decision.

Ultimaker II attachment

mechanical

It looks like self adhesive Velcro is the best option to attach the box to the back of your Ultimaker II.

Electrical

Having a Raspberry Pi permanently connected to your printer, that has ample 5V and 12V, it is kind of silly to power it via a separate wall wart. So we should see about powering it from the Ultimaker.

2016-06-20

As I print a lot, I use huge and heavy Colorfabb 2.2Kg spools.
So when a spool is fresh and heavy, there is a lot of friction involved that the extruder needs to overcome.
My hope is to reduce this friction a great deal with this simple upgrade.

Notes:

Print "608 mount" ith lots of infill, a large nozzle and thick layers. It needs to be strong.

M8x140 is plenty of length. It should have a hex head, so you only need 2 M8 nuts

You can use counter nuts (4 in total), so the nuts stay in place even with lots of vibration over a long time period

Use a bolt that has threads all the way (no smooth shaf and only threads at the tip)

Clean up the inside of "608 Core2 90mm" and "core 1", so a 608 bearing can be inserted into the far end

2016-06-18

Project

I received a broken Panasonic YAGH unit for a GH4/GH4R camera.
The description was that it simply failed at some point and was dead. The original owner has a second YAGH in operation, so I'm ruling out handling error.

Since the Audio part also did not work, I can rule out any ground loop or static electricity issue with the SDI ports as the cause.
If the SDI ports are broken, I'm still left with a good XLR audio preamp for my GH4. ;)

My educated guess is a burned protection diode/0 Ohm resistor/fuse in the power supply due to a power spike or ground loop.

Disassembly

This unit is all nuts and bolts.
Don't start this disassembly unless you have

a LOT of table space to lay out the bolts

a means to print photos you made of each board/side/layer to put the bolts on

I learned the hard way that putting the unit onto a photocopier does NOT produce good results

You have to remove all visible screws on all sides to remove the outher plastic hull.
Use the photos I made to get a good understanding of how the different parts inside connect to disassemble them later.
You can have to disconnect the board with the 2 XLR audio connectors to physically separate "Main" and "Power" board.
You have to disconnect the front panel "SW-Audio" board from the "Main" board to to physically separate the elements
You have to remove the lower board "Main" with the SDI connectors to remove the plastic on top of the "Power" board.

Aparently you can reconnect things in a way to run the YAGH without any case and easily reachable contacts. Just the upper side of "Main" and lower side of "POWER" are blocked because they mate to each other.

What surprised me was, that the unit actually contains an micro-HDMI to HDMI cable and a full sized HDMI socket inside!
My guess is that this is to easily replace a broken cable but then again...you need to completely disasembly EVERYTHING to reach that cable.

Power supply

The unit accepts XLR power with

12V applied on Pin 4 and

GND on pin 1.

Pin 2+3 are not connected

Rated for 11-17V (1.4A at 12V) -> 16.8V D-Tap power is fine but very near the top limit

Setup: I'm testing the unit with a DTap to XLR power adapter cable.
I could also use a lab power supply but attaching it would be difficult as the cables are very well insulated and leave no place where I could attach clamps.

Lessons learned: aparently you CAN insert a chinese D-Tap plug THE WRONG WAY without any resistance.

Found the problem? The Power board is not supplying power to any of the other board. The fuses are intact and there are no obviously burned capacitors or diodes that I could easily replace.

SDI out

1080p24/25/30 -> the same 1.5G SDI signal on all 4 outputs

1080p50/60 -> the same 3G SDI signal on output 1 and 2

UHD at 24/2530fps or DCI 4K at 24fps ->4 FullHD segments as 1.5G SDI signals on each port

Conclusion: I can test the SDI ports using my Atomos Samurai Blade or shogun that both only have a single SDI input.

Audio board

XLR inputs arrive in a small board "CJBB84417" with only passive componente.
They are then routed into the board "VJBB0F44" with 4 low noise amplifiers labeled "8202 304 JRC".
It also houses the Pogo pins to the large connector on the camera and a large connector to the main board.Guesses:
My guess is, that this does all the audio pre-amp and hands these over to the camera.
It should also provide the volume level to the main board for display and get level information from the input board via the main board somehow.
All the other pins should just be routed through from the main board to the camera.
I fuether guess that if I supply this board with power and connect it to the GH4, it may work on it's own (with a fixed level value).
If the amplifiers are similar to the NJM8202, they should have a 15V power supply.

DONE: Write the final software including monitoring pulling force and spool-scale

TODO: Write an assembly instruction including setting up the software.

MKI

MKII

Testing rotary encoder

Testing load cell for extruder pulling force

The software

I'm using a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint as the central controller.
The original plan was to use the Octoprint API.
For the final software (Here on GitHub) I decided to write an OctoPrint plugin.
I can not only detect if filament is supposed to move at the moment and issue a pause command without hacking the firmware and dual-using one of the homing switches as an E-Stop.
I can also display information (such as remaining filament) in the OctoPrint web interface
and offer my meassurements as new values in the OctoPrint API.

DONE: Write the final software including monitoring pulling force and spool-scale

TODO: Write an assembly instruction including setting up the software.

MKI

MKII

Testing rotary encoder

Testing load cell for extruder pulling force

The software

I'm using a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint as the central controller.
The original plan was to use the Octoprint API.
For the final software (Here on GitHub) I decided to write an OctoPrint plugin.
I can not only detect if filament is supposed to move at the moment and issue a pause command without hacking the firmware and dual-using one of the homing switches as an E-Stop.
I can also display information (such as remaining filament) in the OctoPrint web interface
and offer my meassurements as new values in the OctoPrint API.