I usualy keep all the screws in ! Sometimes I will run without the 2 screws (button head) right behind the spur gear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by b-man777

Hy Kevin: Thanks for the response useful info. I guess we're getting to watered down in on road racing with so many classes. Also no matter what trends come and go in the r/c hobby 12th pan car always seems to survive. Thanks

No problem ! anytime

Quote:

Originally Posted by mos-leung

Any photo for where should be drill? also what size of hole should be ?
Leave the hole after drill ? or put a screw ?
I tried but can't find any room for drill.
See my photo for details.

As mentionned, it should be drilled in the black pastic cap ! 1mm is big enough.

Starting monday I will be in florida for the Snowbird nationals, So I am not sure how much internet access I will have but I will do my best to answer questions on here.

Kevin, really looking forward to watching you in the birds next week. I am also using a TC6 and would love to get some tips from you. Don't worry, I will be running the 17.5 touring amateur class. Hope to meet you and have some chat time.

Bill Lance

__________________
88 miles per hour is the magic speed.
1.21 gigawatts will get me there.

I have a box stock 12R5.1 which I run on our indoor asphalt track. Found it to work well with Xceed hard fronts and Medium rears, front brace removed. My question is, how do I setup the car to take the corners 'rounder'?

If I'm entering a corner or making a steering correction, the car wants to cut into the corner too eagerly, either on or off power. I only sauce the rears with the intention for the car to push a bit, but still the same effect.

We're trying to get a 1/12th class going on here and though the car is really quick, it's very hard to drive it consistently with the current configuration. Ordered all the available springs for the car so suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Kevin, really looking forward to watching you in the birds next week. I am also using a TC6 and would love to get some tips from you. Don't worry, I will be running the 17.5 touring amateur class. Hope to meet you and have some chat time.

Bill Lance

yes for sure always nice to meet new people ! I will be there for any question you may have.

Quote:

Originally Posted by idbdoug

On the 12r5.1 you normally run the front brace. I noticed on some of the team drivers setup sheets, they remove the front brace. Does anybody know why they would remove the front brace?
idbdoug

hmm usualy I will remove the front brace in low traction condition as it seems to geve the car more steering but when the traction is high I like the brace better, makes the car easier to drive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheehtae

GO KEVIN ,we are routing for you and all AE drivers.

Thanks !! Appreciate

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeygar

Hi Kevin,

I have a box stock 12R5.1 which I run on our indoor asphalt track. Found it to work well with Xceed hard fronts and Medium rears, front brace removed. My question is, how do I setup the car to take the corners 'rounder'?

If I'm entering a corner or making a steering correction, the car wants to cut into the corner too eagerly, either on or off power. I only sauce the rears with the intention for the car to push a bit, but still the same effect.

We're trying to get a 1/12th class going on here and though the car is really quick, it's very hard to drive it consistently with the current configuration. Ordered all the available springs for the car so suggestions would be greatly appreciated

The one thing you could try is maybe smaller tires ? Also I think my setup from the outdoor paved nats is on the associateds website and that would be a good starting point. If it still does it, you can also try a softer side spring.

Keven,
Now that the SXX Stock Spec V.2 is being released to the distributors, can you give a little feedback on how it ran for you in testing, how it compared to the MKIII and MKIV versions, as well as how it works for modified if you tried it.

Do you feel comfortable that the cogging, as well as all other issues with the previous versions are a thing of the past?

Hi Kevin, Could you elaborate on why you think the 1.0,1.0,1.5mm piston hole setup works better for you than say 1,1,1? More specifically what do you like better as far as how the car "feels" on the track?

The one thing you could try is maybe smaller tires ? Also I think my setup from the outdoor paved nats is on the associateds website and that would be a good starting point. If it still does it, you can also try a softer side spring.

thanks Keven! will try truing the tires some more and a softer side spring. Appreciate it! Will update here with my findings.

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