On my 20110 2551, It seems the former owner did not have a connector on the motorhome to hold the door completely open. On top of the door is a holder but the other part on the top of MN is missing but I see where it was orginally. Where can I get another holder. I can't use the screen door if I can't keep the door open with the wind blowing it shut. There is not place to even use a bungy cord.Slowing findout different things that need my attention. I've only had the mh a few months. Finally got the macerator working after getting a new pump at a good price at local RV. About the same price as the facory in talking with Kermit. Any suggestion on holding door open. Thanks

Ron D. is correct, on my 2010 there was a piston at the top of the door that was a fixed to the door header by 4 screws and the other end obviously attaches to the top of the door with screws as well, the piston slowly andnicly open the door to the 90 degree mark and stops there and holds the door open. Very small dollars I am sure thru the factory. Are there screw holes in the door now?

I should also mention that the newer door limiter prevents the door from hitting the awning pole when the awning is open. Either awning design benefits from it.

With our older 2007 without the limiter, I rigged up a home made rope thingy which works adequately with a couple bungie cords to the awning pole or door mirror. The only reason why I have not gone with the newer design is because it is essential to open the door 180 degrees while in our garage.

Here is my rope thingy, nice to have on windy days to maintain control if ripped away from your hands. Good head clearence too when entering/exiting. When the door is closed, the rope lays beautifully into a stored position.

Here is our rig in the garage. With my Corvette parked next to the rig, between the car and the pole, my PC door needs to open 180 degrees. It looks like it will hit the pole, but it is a near miss, a close 3".

Are you referring to the door latch?? Camping world sell one 6 Inch Plastic T Entry Door Holder - White 49608 It cost 7 dollars.... Hold the door at 180 degrees to the side of unit. that's is on my unit.I redid the screws on mind, purchase stainless screws,dab a little caulk on them before putting them on also.I believe they 1/2 inchRon I hate you everytime you show your unit in your garage (just kidding) btw, on your door thingy,,, I modified your ideal,,, I added a 6 inch spring to the rope, added a steel swivel clasp, with plunger hook clasp. When I drive we unhook the connection I have a small hook running along side the doorway to hook it on while driving... connect it to the door when we first go out the side door. Real easy off and on. This was a great ideal, it just does not matter how many times you try and remember to open the door and hold on YOU FORGET,, our brains are trained to open and push, let go... just hate it when the wind smacks the door into the side,,, I had a roadtrek and think I warped the door one time when the wind grabbed it.. David Sparks2008 PC 2350Houston, Texas

....does not matter how many times you try and remember to open the door and hold on YOU FORGET...

Yep! So far we never had the door "crash" into the rig but a good thump was enough for me to come up with the rope idea.

I used to have a picture of the rope with the door closed. It does store perfectly (out of the way open, closed, and while passing through) and can be easily hooked or unhooked with the door open or closed. I added second round button hook thingy in the door frame also on the sink side, for storing the rope and bungie cords between the frame and sink cabinet.

I actually have expanded to 2 ropes of different lengths. The second one is an indoor clothes line that doubles as a longer door limiter.

I would buy a real door limiter but we've gotten well used to our rope system. Maybe one day I'll order the real thing from the factory.