I woke up in the middle of the night burning up inside my bed. I wondered if the broken radiator in our room suddenly started working, and the pants I was drying over them would be melting. I got up to check, but the radiator was cold. Apparently the single duvet/comforter, and thick padded mattress was super insulating, and causing me to expose skin to cool off. I later found out Wendy shed some layers over the night too.

We both slept pretty well, given hostel noise considerations. We got up at 8:50am, and checked out by 9:30am. Skies were a mix of sun and cloud, and the forecast for today had greatly improved overnight. For breakfast we snacked on some flapjack bites. I also had a banana with some peanut butter. This was our first (and likely only) day without a full Scottish breakfast, due to the hostel stay.

Our plan was to hike to the Spar Cave today, and with the improved weather, along with my explorations yesterday, we were all systems go. The drive to Elgol was much more scenic today, given the clearer skies. We were in no hurry, since low tide wasn't until 12:50pm, and the cave is only accessible an hour either side of low tide.

Views on the drive to Elgol...

Animals along the road...

After a few breaks on the road for snacks and pics, we reached the phone booth near the unsigned trailhead, and I prepped my bag. We'd need our headlamps for todays hike. I also packed my new flash for use in the cave.

Wendy started out ahead of me while I finished packing. She found a row of cows to amuse herself.

There are phone booths and mailboxes in the middle of nowhere, on these Scottish Isle. When I started the hike, I found Wendy having a conversation with a group of cows...

Wendy got licked by a cow again...

The hike to the cave is only .25 miles, but very steep and rocky. The first stage descends down steep grassy/bushy slopes, with the final 20 feet on a steep muddy rocky path. Once at the mouth of the inlet, one must maneuver through a jumbled array of jagged boulders out to the sea. The route turns to the left, and passes another narrow inlet with steep cliffs. All these rocks were wet, and mildly slippery, but fairly manageable.

1st pic: A view down a narrow inlet, which we'd be bypassing along the shore below. 2nd pic: The steep descent to the shore...

Scrambling out across the jagged boulders, before turning left around the corner...

We bypassed this first black opening, and contined to a second opening...

Upon rounding the corner, we see the inlet leading to the Spar Cave...

We traversed the ledges, until we ran into a barrier of water...

At the mouth of the 2nd inlet, the boulders ended, and we walked along some ledges on the left side of the inlet. These had more seaweed covering them, requiring greater care. At the end of the ledges, we ran into a barrier of water. This wasn't too surprising, as it was still 11:15am, 1hr 35minutes before low tide. We investigated for 5-10 minutes, looking for the best route to the other side of the inlet. By this time, enough rocks were above water, or just an inch underwater, to get across. Our poles helped with balance.

The rest of the way up the inlet was dry, but over seaweed covered rocks. We crossed an old broken wall, and stood agape at the huge chasms in the cliffs ahead of us.

Across the water, the gash in the rock marked the Spar Cave entrance...

The cave to the right was full of water. The cave to the left is the Spar Cave, which is famous for being used as a hiding spot for Prince Bonnie Charles escape from Scotland.

I checked my watch, and found we still had an hour before low tide. PLENTY of time to spend on pictures in the cave. If you stay too long, and find yourself trapped by the tide, you'd have to wait 12 hours for the next low tide…

There were two caves. The water filled entrance on the right is to be avoided...

We donned our headlamps and entered the dark abyss. It felt a little like the Paths of the Dead from LOTR. The entrance was a bit muddy with water running out. Once we turned to the right, as saw an incredible steep slope of limestone with water running down the entire width. It looked impossible to climb, but it turns out the limestone surface is extremely textured, and grips a boot with ease.

We leaned into the sides of the cave, and made our way up. There were bulging white columns of limestone, looking like squid tentacles on the sides of the walls. Apparently there used to be stalagmites here, but Victorian explorers cut them all down for souvenirs.

We were intimidated by the steep watery slope in the cave, but traction proved amazingly grippy...

Wendy takes a seat while I get the camera equipment out. The drips from the ceiling made finding a dry spot difficult...

At the top of the slope, we saw a steep drop to a pond below. Since there was no way to cross it, we stayed put, and I brought out my camera and tripod. I tried using my new flash, but was unable to get it working. I should have practiced using it in a dark room first… Instead, I made some 30 second exposures, using the light from our headlamps to paint the scene. I had to find spots were water wasn't dripping from the ceiling to position the camera. It was quite a comfortable temp in the cave.

The following shots were all 30 second exposures, using our headlamps to light up the cave...

A look down at the pool of water blocking further passage...

Crazy squid like formations...

After lots of photos, and about an hour inside the cave, we packed up and descended down the ~45 degree slope to the cave's entrance, where a group of 3 other people had just arrived.

Some light is visible at the opening of the cave (1st pic)...

Wendy stands atop the steep slope of the Spar Cave...

30 second time lapses of Wendy working her way down the cave (her headlamp leaving a trail)...

It was now 12:50pm, low tide. The water had dropped another 3-4 inches or so since we entered, revealing more rocks to use on our return. Looks like it had rained during our time in the cave, but was clearing up now.

Making our way out of the cave...

Much less water in the inlet during low tide. A tripod shot during our return...

Making our way back along the coast...

We returned to the car, and once more revisited Elgol, admiring the best views yet of the Black Culliens. Then we continued back towards Broadford, stopping at the Blue Shed Café in Torrin for lunch. We had toasties and shared a soup while admiring some of the impressive Black Culliens.

Scenery on the way back to Elgol...

The view from Elgol...

Super low arcing rainbow...

Lunch at the scenically located Blue Shed Cafe...

After lunch, we made our way back to Broadford, and then headed over the Skye bridge, back to the mainland, to visit Eilean Donan Castle, in Dornie. This castle is THE most idyllic castle in Scotland. I had been here 8 years ago with my family, and it was one of the highlights. Wendy was quick to agree that it was REALLY cool. We bought tickets (6 pounds) and did a self tour. It's virtually a museum of castle life from the early 1900s. Very enjoyable, and much better than the Inveraroy Castle we visited on the first day.

It was 4pm when we returned across the moat over the stone bridge. We took a short walk for some views at a distance, hoping the sun would emerge from the clouds. It rained, but also briefly cleared enough for some sun.

Scenes from outside the castle...

Found some boysenberries while walking around...

Fortunatley the sun came out as we started driving away...

We then drove back onto Skye, stopped at the Co-op in Broadford to buy some oranges, and made our way to the Highfield B&B in Portree. It had a nice view from outside. The weather was constantly changing from dark clouds and rain, to gorgeous sunshine, with occasional rainbows. It did seem to have gotten chilly outside too.

The Skye bridge, connecting the island to the mainland...

We drove into town, and returned to Café Arriba for dinner. Wendy ordered a pork meatball with soy, garlic, tomato sauce dish, and I ordered an Ethiopian chicken, with lentils, spicy peanut butter, and yogurt dish. Delicious! Had some blaeberry (yes, that's the right spelling for this blueish berry) Skye ice cream for dessert.

We returned to Cafe Arriba for our last dinner on Skye...

The blaeberry ice cream was very tasty. It was a new berry we hadn't heard of before...

After dinner, the clouds were lit pink, so we drove outside of town a bit, hoping to catch a better view, but didn't find anything. However, there was a nice view when we returned to our B&B.

Views from the garden of our B&B in Portree during twilight...

Our room for the night...

We take a ferry to the Isle of Harris tomorrow. Will have time in the morning for a walk, but will see what the weather delivers. Weather is looking bad, but it always seems to be bad…

Had lots of hot cocoa tonight to re-hydrate. Realized today is Sunday, and I forgot to change my fantasy football lineup. Oh well…