Location

8/10

Olaulim Backyards is in the little village of Olaulim, around seven miles (twelve kms) from Goa’s capital Panjim. The drive takes you through wetlands, white churches by the roadside, vegetable gardens and houses overflowing with bougainvillea.

The property is on the Mandovi backwaters, with uninterrupted views of green fields along the river bank and the water curving away into the distance. It’s as far away from the touristy parts of Goa as you can get, so don’t expect public transport, restaurants or shopping in the area. It is about an hour’s drive away from Goa’s only airport, Dabolim.

Style & character

8/10

The location and the sheer beauty of the place are enough to make your head turn, but the four earthy cottages (named after birds spotted in the area) will help you relax even further.

Three of the cottages are wooden, built discreetly with local materials in small, natural clearings framed by coconut trees and wildflowers. The fourth is an experiment in rammed earth architecture which keeps temperatures indoors regulated efficiently. All cottages have vintage or hand-made wooden furniture and an enclosed outdoor shower.

Service & facilities

8/10

Expect friendly and attentive service. The hosts are knowledgeable about the area and can guide you on village walks, cycle rides or help you explore Goa with tours to popular markets, forts and churches. They can also arrange scuba diving, river rafting or learning pottery with one of Goa’s best-known sculptors.

If you’d rather stay put, there’s a pool overlooking the river, books and magazines in the open-air dining lounge, and puzzles and toys for children. You can go kayaking or boating on the river, or bird-watching. Fishing rods are available, along with bait. There’s also an honesty bar ‘Taverna Hama Hama’ that is open all hours.

Bar

Laundry

Parking

Pool

Rooms

7/10

All four cottages have a seating area outside with close-up views of the river or the surrounding trees. The furniture is vintage (four-poster beds, wooden cupboards, old Goan chairs and consoles) or locally made from fallen trees. The en-suite outdoor showers are a treat with just the sky above for company. Rooms are technology-free with no internet access, television, air-conditioning or mini-bar. An electric kettle, with an assortment of teas and coffee, and a safe are available.

Food & drink

8/10

Breakfast offers varieties of colourful fresh fruit (all grown on the property), local bread, Goan bhaji (potatoes in a mildly spiced gravy), home-made jams and eggs to order. There is no restaurant as such, but a generous lunch or dinner (an assortment of vegetarian, meat and seafood dishes) can be provided on prior request for around Rs. 600 (£7).

Value for money

8/10

Double rooms from Rs. 4500 (£51) in low season; rising to Rs. 8500 (£97) in high. Breakfast and all in-house activities, including kayaking, included. No Wi-Fi.

Access for guests with disabilities?

No.

Family-friendly?

This is an excellent place for families with children of all ages. Besides the pool, kayaking and toys available, the property is large enough for children to explore the flora and fauna. A little tree-house near the dining area is fun for bird-watching (over 100 species of birds, including peacocks, hornbills and kingfishers have been recorded in the area). There are several friendly pets as well. At the last count, there were four dogs, two cats, one donkey and a goat named Lilly. On the river, one can spot otters and, occasionally, flying fish.