The hole is very tiny and I do have a 100mL can of Michelin Stop&Go but never used such a product. Is it tubular compatible (latex inners) and do I dump the whole can in the one tyre via the valve?

Anyone with practical experience? Will this foam sealant be long lasting?

Cheers

Vulcanisation has nothing to do with repairability. These tubulars can be repaired, I have a repaired one as my spare. Repairing tubulars is easy enough but many people can't be bothered. It is very difficult to repair a tubular that has had a 'sealant' put into it though, so it is either/or.

The process for repair1. Find the hole (note that air will often leak from the tube and move around inside the carcass to come out at around the base of the valve, don't get fooled)2. Detatch a small section of backing tape from the tyre carcass at the site of the puncture. (a bigger section creates more work to glue it back later)3. Cut the stitches holding the carcass together at the site of the puncture, 5cm should be enough.4. Pull the fine material (silk?) aside to expose the tube5. Pull a loop of tube out, patch the tube6. Stuff the tube back in7. Replace the fine material a best you can8. Sew the carcass back together9. Pressure test10. Glue the backing tape back down.

It is a small hassle but it saves a good tyre. Sealants have their own issues they are ok when they work but if they don't you might as well bin the tyre. If you let the tyre go completely flat there is a chance that sealant will glue the tube to itself which then tears itself apart when you pump it up again.

The hole is very tiny and I do have a 100mL can of Michelin Stop&Go but never used such a product. Is it tubular compatible (latex inners) and do I dump the whole can in the one tyre via the valve?

Anyone with practical experience? Will this foam sealant be long lasting?

Cheers

From what I have read the sealant pictured is very similar to pitstop. I have found that with pitstop in the tire you have reduced its life span to less than six months before you will blow a sidewall. There is something in the container that's eats the latex inner tube

ironhanglider wrote:Vulcanisation has nothing to do with repairability.

Rubbish. Corsa CXs have the base tape vulcanised to the casing. Try getting it off, it's next to impossible. It can be done but it's nothing like conti tubular basetape which comes off just looking at it.

jcjordan wrote:From what I have read the sealant pictured is very similar to pitstop. I have found that with pitstop in the tire you have reduced its life span to less than six months before you will blow a sidewall. There is something in the container that's eats the latex inner tube

If it ate the inner tube, that'd result in a tube failure rather than a failure of the tyre casing one would think?

jcjordan wrote:From what I have read the sealant pictured is very similar to pitstop. I have found that with pitstop in the tire you have reduced its life span to less than six months before you will blow a sidewall. There is something in the container that's eats the latex inner tube

If it ate the inner tube, that'd result in a tube failure rather than a failure of the tyre casing one would think?

From what I can determine, based only on personal experience, is that once put in the tire you seem to get a sidewall failure at about 5-6 months down the track. Examining the inner tube has always shown some sort of damage that I can't explained from snow externally cause failure.

ironhanglider wrote:Vulcanisation has nothing to do with repairability.

Rubbish. Corsa CXs have the base tape vulcanised to the casing. Try getting it off, it's next to impossible. It can be done but it's nothing like conti tubular basetape which comes off just looking at it.

Looks like I'm out of date (again). The last time I bought Corsa CXs (2008) the base tape was glued in the traditional manner (I'm still using them). I was interpreting the 'vulcanisation' as attaching the tread to the casing, as opposed to the latex glue methods used in the hand-made tubulars like FMB/Dugast.

The only other variation I am aware of is the Tufo tubulars which don't have a tube per se, but a layer that is bonded to the inside of the casing. In theory this should work better with sealants since it provides more depth for the sealant to fill up (layer + casing). However I don't know of anyone who rides them.

In the meantime I see from WW that Oltre (E777L) has gone ahead and used the Stop & Go stuff, without great success.

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