Eat This: Matzoh Brei With Nova and Onions at Kenny & Ziggy's

For the indecisive, selecting what to eat at Kenny & Ziggy's can be a daunting process. It doesn't help that the full menu is available all the time, so even if it's 7 p.m., that omelette is as viable a choice as the pastrami sandwich. Not to complain, however, as more restaurants in this town should embrace "brinner."

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But if it helps, here's the best thing I've had in recent memory from Kenny & Ziggy's (and so much of their food is top-notch): The Matzoh Brei With Nova and Onions. Stop your kvetching about the tyranny of choice and just order it.

Ruth Reichl first enlightened me about the wonders of well-made matzoh brei in her memoir, Tender at the Bone, where she describes whipping up a batch for her friends after a night of drunken revelry. Her recipe is amazingly simple and testifies to how combining just a few ingredients can yield tantalizing creations.

Kenny & Ziggy's offers consumers the option of adding nova and onions to the matzoh brei, and the piscine protein adds a lovely layer of salty savoriness to the eggs. The supple onions, in turn, add a hint of of botanical sweetness, which can be increased further should you choose to dress the dish with the side of applesauce.

Reichl calls matzoh brei "one of life's perfect foods"; go to Kenny & Ziggy's and see if you agree.