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Windham (the real thing) 2-17-2018http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484152-windham-the-real-thing-2-17-2018
Sat, 17 Feb 2018 20:37:50 GMTMost of the ice is gone so we barebooted the whole hike. Some ice that remained was easier to walk around than to change footwear back and forth. ...Most of the ice is gone so we barebooted the whole hike. Some ice that remained was easier to walk around than to change footwear back and forth. Great weather, never above freezing. Sun in the morning and for the viewpoints. Started to get overcast somewhere on the descent.Catskill Trip ReportsMrMagoohttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484152-windham-the-real-thing-2-17-2018Tee Jay has passedhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/general-hiking-information/484137-tee-jay-has-passed
Fri, 16 Feb 2018 23:41:59 GMTWe lost a great friend yesterday. TeeJay was a kind, fun loving, compassionate and long time hiker and adventurer. It was great to see him at the...http://mobileobits.syracuse.com/obit...223.1427922038]]>General Hiking InformationADKJackhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/general-hiking-information/484137-tee-jay-has-passedHoka Bondi shoeshttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/general-hiking-information/gear/484108-hoka-bondi-shoes
Fri, 16 Feb 2018 01:10:39 GMTGearAll Downhill From Herehttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/general-hiking-information/gear/484108-hoka-bondi-shoesIndianhead and Twin yesterday, Sugarloaf and Plateau fun todayhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484107-indianhead-and-twin-yesterday-sugarloaf-and-plateau-fun-today
Fri, 16 Feb 2018 00:50:13 GMT
Today, Sugarloaf was the first and only hike this winter for me to need microspikes. I was not surprised with the first waterfall area, but the rest of the mountain was worse. Most will need full crampons and sharp ones, and most will not want to go there at all. It would not be worth it for most, I would think. Its pretty exciting. I did consider going around, but my long reach with ski poles on the descent worked well. All told, I put on microspikes maybe 5 times for the ascent, and 2 times coming down, which just means I needed them more for the descent. No dirt or rocks or microspikes were harmed in the making of this post.

I did not need microspikes on Plateau, although some would. I did put my tiny 7x18 snowshoes on half way up, and that made things much nicer in the soft snow and ice. Once I got back to the half way point, I bushwhacked off with the snowshoes down to close to the trail, beginning in the notch. It was a lot of fun, and I didn't need my light too much, just from the notch out, where I did use my light.]]>Catskill Trip ReportsCatskillKevhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484107-indianhead-and-twin-yesterday-sugarloaf-and-plateau-fun-todayWindham (practice for Windham) 2-15-2018http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484094-windham-practice-for-windham-2-15-2018
Thu, 15 Feb 2018 20:09:29 GMTTook a quick trip up Windham today to practice for the Saturday Club hike. Lots of patchy ice on the trail and thick in some places. The summit...
Was cloudy and misty most of the time. We had a break in the mist for a nice picture from the north facing overlook but no luck on the south facing one. Less than a half mile from the summit the sun came out and the temperature rose to "sit and snack without hurry" temperatures. We had an hour of great weather and then we were back at the trailhead...]]>Catskill Trip ReportsMrMagoohttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/484094-windham-practice-for-windham-2-15-2018Street and Nye 2/14/18 Easy Streethttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/trail-conditions-aa/484056-street-and-nye-2-14-18-easy-street
Thu, 15 Feb 2018 03:34:02 GMTThis trail has had a lot of traffic since the last snowfall. Very well defined track from HPIC to summits. Crossing of Indian Pass Brook very solid...This trail has had a lot of traffic since the last snowfall. Very well defined track from HPIC to summits. Crossing of Indian Pass Brook very solid as of 2/14. Minor blowdown (not fresh) and some postholes approaching and beyond col. A couple of errant tracks had been clearly blocked off as such with sticks. Snowshoes door to door. Trail Conditionsgreenvthttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/trail-conditions-aa/484056-street-and-nye-2-14-18-easy-streetLower Wolf Jaws 2018-02-10http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/484049-lower-wolf-jaws-2018-02-10
Thu, 15 Feb 2018 02:53:13 GMTThere was room to spare in the Garden Parking Lot, donning my snowshoes, the trail to JBL was well packed, with sufficient snow coverage to hide all...
After reaching Five Corners and crossing over the Orebed Brook Trail, I continued straight ahead towards Wolfjaw Brook. Trees were laden with snow and the open forest was a winter wonderland.
At the brook crossing, there was more drifting of snow in this area, nothing to complain about. I continued on to the next open area, the crossing a small slide. This too had some drifting snow which was easily negotiated.
Most of the snow from above, had settled below.
I reached the Wolf Jaw Trail which eventually intersected the ADK Range Trail.

Shortly thereafter, the WA White Trail led to the Lower WolfJaw summit. This final approach is quite steep and there were a few icy steps that I found difficult to get any hold on with my snowshoes, so I opted for my Hillsound trail crampons. I stayed in these for a few more steps and then went back to snowshoes as now by late morning, the temperature was rising and snow conditions were getting softer. As I neared the summit, muted views of Big Slide across Johns Brook Valley could be seen.
As well as Johns Brook Valley.
With these limited views and having reached the summit, I turned around and headed back to the Wolf Jaw col. On my descent, I knew where the icy steps were, but on one of them, my footing slipped, over extending my left leg and I could feel discomfort in every step from there on out. While I had anticipated climbing Upper Wolf Jaw, I decided to call it a day. Not sure what I aggravated, but I am still being reminded of whatever it is. All in all, great conditions for a walk in the woods, and my nineteenth winter peak.]]>Adirondack Trip ReportsSeaLevelhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/484049-lower-wolf-jaws-2018-02-10http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/484025-haba-sswr-finish-february-13
Wed, 14 Feb 2018 20:51:14 GMTOne of the things about winter hiking which keeps me interested is that every year is different. This year a prominent feature was the frequent below...
I usually hike Haystack-Basin-Saddleback as a group but the snow last week followed by rain and warm weather over the weekend made me consider climbing the cliffs on Saddleback unwise. There was no way to know, and I didnÂ’t want to get there and find out it was a technical ice climb beyond my ability. There was a serious injury and rescue there the week before. So Monday, Feb. 12, I enjoyed a trip to Saddleback via the Orebed trail on a mostly frozen hard trail.

I set out for Ha-Ba from the Garden at 7 a.m. You guessed it, the temperature was 0°F for most of the morning. I was surprised that the trail to Horse Hill was mostly hard-packed by hikers (and the weather). None of the usual trailbreaking in knee-deep snow. I got a big surprise at the view of the ice covering Little Haystack and Haystack, glistening in the morning sun. I was following recent tracks, maybe from the day before, which turned around at the foot of Little Haystack.

I made it to the top of Little Haystack on snowshoes but saw that I would need to change to my Kahtoola K10 crampons for the descent. I carefully worked my way down to the little step and found the rocks mostly clear of ice but the sloping landing ledge was covered with snow. I reached down with my hiking pole and broke out a boot-sized spot which was trustworthy, then carefully lowered myself down onto it and quickly got to a safer location. For climbing Haystack I threaded my way away from the ice and toward the rock, snow and crust. The summit was completely covered by a glaze of clear ice but I was happy to be there. The descent was easier than I thought it would be, as I mostly followed my tracks. Even ascending the little step was easy. It was a great relief to have lunch at the trail junction.

The descent to the Haystack brook col was easy in the crusty, consolidated snow and I was soon climbing Basin. The Shorey's trail and Basin trail were completely postholed, making snowshoeing difficult. I was happy to see that the postholers stopped right below the ladder. I guess they didn't like the looks of the ice at the top, or maybe they were just worn out. After what I went through on Haystack I barely noticed the ice on the summit of Basin, my 46th peak for the 2017-2018 season.

Some statistics: This yearÂ’s round comprised 17 hiking days over a total of 55 days. Nine of the hikes were over 8 hours duration. Total distance was 286 miles. Total time was 135 hours. Total ascent was about 79,000 feet. These numbers are similar to past years. Here is the list:

12/21/17 Giant and Rocky Peak Ridge

12/24/17 Cascade and Porter

12/27/17 Street and Nye

12/30/17 Sawteeth, Gothics, Armstrong, Upper, Lower Wolf Jaw

1/3/18 Donaldson, Emmons, Seward, Seymour

1/7/18 Cliff, Redfield, Colden

1/14/18 Macomb, Grace, South Dix, Hough, Dix

1/16/18 Tabletop and Phelps

1/18/18 Panther, Couchsachraga, Santanoni

1/22/18 Whiteface and Esther

1/24/18 Colvin, Blake, Nippetop, Dial

1/28/18 Allen

1/30/18 Wright, Algonquin, Iroquois, Marshall

2/6/18 Big Slide

2/9/18 Marcy, Skylight, Gray

2/12/18 Saddleback-Orebed trail

2/13/18 Haystack & Basin

Icy summits

Summit

Hiking trail--see cairn right of center and my footprints]]>Adirondack Trip ReportsJoeCedarhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/484025-haba-sswr-finish-february-13Table, Peekamoose, Lone, Rocky, Balsam Cap, Friday, Cornell, Wittenberg, Slide 2/13http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/483987-table-peekamoose-lone-rocky-balsam-cap-friday-cornell-wittenberg-slide-2-13
Wed, 14 Feb 2018 01:59:51 GMTI picked the right day for this, and was fortunate to find enough snow everywhere. Or at least everywhere off trail. The trails were an icy snowshoed...
I hiked from Denning and used 9x30 medium snowshoes. A hare was sighted which is always nice. I finished the day with a bushwhack off of Slide and a red sunset was perfect timing for the leisurely walk from the last junction, back to the Denning trailhead. I saw no one all day long and the only fresh hiker tracks were up on the summit of Slide.

]]>Catskill Trip ReportsCatskillKevhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/483987-table-peekamoose-lone-rocky-balsam-cap-friday-cornell-wittenberg-slide-2-13Indian Head and Twin 2-13-2018http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/483974-indian-head-and-twin-2-13-2018
Tue, 13 Feb 2018 22:52:58 GMTUsed crampons and Hillsounds right from Prediger Rd. Not enough snow to use snowshoes except between the two Twins but the trail was already broken...Catskill Trip ReportsMrMagoohttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/other-places-in-the-northeast-united-states/catskill-trip-reports/483974-indian-head-and-twin-2-13-2018LWJ Friday 2/9/2018, NOT via Bennies.http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/483958-lwj-friday-2-9-2018-not-via-bennies
Tue, 13 Feb 2018 18:47:35 GMTHad long set our sights on summiting LWJ via Bennies. We parked at the Garden and took the JB Trail towards the Interior Outpost. On the hike in we...Adirondack Trip Reportstoekneehttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/483958-lwj-friday-2-9-2018-not-via-benniesFebruary 9-10-11 - The Macs - Henderson, Panther and Couch - Gray, Skylight, Marcyhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/483957-february-9-10-11-the-macs-henderson-panther-and-couch-gray-skylight-marcy
Tue, 13 Feb 2018 18:29:06 GMTOn behalf of Neil Friday, day one of three. The Macintyre Range
02/09/2018 – Wright, Algonquin, Iroquois, Marshall – Start: 8:29 AM Finish: 8:19...Neil Friday, day one of three. The Macintyre Range

I had a strong team lined up (Mastergrasshopper, Alistair and Great Expectations (Matt) and we easily made our way up to the Wright junction with Matt and Alistair breaking through about 3 inches of new snow over a firm base. Wright was cold, windy and icy but do-able in snowshoes if you exercised care.

Wright summit with Matt Marsh and Glen.

Algonquin was amazing in a near whiteout but before we reached tree-line I got a cool photo of two friends descending Wright. While we dropped towards the Iroquois col the light and visibility changed continuously with veiled views opening up and disappearing rapidly. The herd path was not broken but was easy to follow and the wind had packed it down well. No issues. It was a beautiful crossing. Glen led us way over to the right and we avoided all steep sections. The icy crust held us with no breaking through.

On our way to Iroquois.

Back at the junction Alistair headed out over Algonquin due to a broken snowshoe while the three of us descended in very deep powder snow to Lake Colden. What a soft descent! Not very quick due to the deep snow but very soft. Out on the lake we picked up and followed a lone set of snowshoe tracks to the Colden dam and then found a well-packed trail to the lean-to at Herbert Brook. The trail ended there. We broke trail in 8 inches of new snow over a good base with a discernible groove where the trail was. Progress was good and energy expenditure (both mental and physical) was very reasonable.
Then we followed a wrong herd path. Glen was not liking it so I outed with my compass (I always put one around my neck when I get dressed in the morning) and map and determined that we were going the wrong way. We plunge stepped down towards Herbert Brook, found the correct herd path and kept going. Then we completely lost the path and burned about an hour of daylight before using map, compass and altimeter to guide us. Progress with no underlying base was decidedly slower and energy sapping. It was now 4:20 pm and we were about 300 vertical feet below the summit. No sign of the vly anywhere and so we decided to make “the turn” towards the summit and pray. All of a sudden it was 100% clear that we were back on the herd path.
The snow was so deep that we felt no discernible base below our snowshoes. Progress was now very slow and fatigue was upon us. We rotated leads often with the leader going as hard as he could then stepping aside when he felt too much fatigue. It seemed to take a long time but finally, we saw the summit sign.

We earned this one!

Glen took my picture and we turned tail. Back at the lean-to it was dark and chilly but we took our time in fueling and drinking before the long walk out. Crossing the lakes in the pitch black night with snow falling and swirling about our headlamp beams was just one more of the magical and unforgettable moments of Project-100.

Alistair, Jean and I began without Mastergrasshopper who was slow in getting away from Randomscoots. We tramped and tramped our way to the Bradley Pond lean-to and soaking wet already dropped packs and began the steep .37 mile whack in very deep snow. Thanks to a tracklog I had from a trip from Henderson Lake over Henderson to the lean-to we had mostly open woods. But, the trees were totally covered in loose snow that showered us copiously and repeatedly. There was no sense brushing ourselves off. One hour to go up, 15 minutes back down.

Alistair carries a load of snow up Henderson.

We decided to not stop at the lean-to, just grab a quick gulp of water, shoulder the packs and keep generating body heat. Soaking wet clothing transmits heat away from you very efficiently. We made Herald Square and Panther without incident and at Times Square saw MG and an arrow towards Couch etched in the snow.

Henderson summit sign. Tree hit by blowdown.

Glen, as Alistair has surmised went directly out to Couch to break the trail. (We knew the trail had only been broken to Panther.) We had an easy trip down to the swamp and met Glen on the first bump. He was in fine spirits, totally in his element on his way home from breaking trail out to Couch. We made the grueling trip back up to Times Square and made it down Panther Brook in record time being able to go into a split stance and ski on perfect snow. The road walk was a bit of a slog and we made it out for something like an 11-hour day.

My plan called for a return the next morning to finish the job with big and little Santanonis.

All fresh and clean at Marcy Dam! Maude and Marie-Josée smiled all day.

The forecast was calling for rain and temps in the low 40’s. Santa was not broken out and Henderson gave us a small sampling of what to expect whacking to L. Santa. I had a reduced team (MJO and Mayasoleil were my fresh horses from Quebec) holed up in a motel in Schroon Lake and Alistair was too beat up to join us. I made the call (ie. a phone call) and informed my, now two only, partners that the Santas were out, MSG was in. This would normally be an “easy out”, which was good because, thanks to Marshall, I was feeling the previous 2 days a fair bit.

The lenticular-shaped cloud lay directly over our route! Taken from L. Arnold-Opalescent trail.

Turned out to be really hard due to cling-on snow that piled up thickly under our snowshoes.

Lest’s get outta here!

After Gray and Skylight we crossed Marcy in incredible conditions but we were totally prepared and loaded. Visibility was the poorest I'’ve ever done it in. Wind was about 40 mph. and freezing rain drove at us sideways. Our worst-case scenario was to use our freshly recorded tracklogs to go back to 4 Corners and exit via Lake Arnold.

We navigated with a cell phone and not one but two gps’'s. Mine has become unreliable and a new one is on order so I carried a spare from Tom. But the best tools were my memory and my compass.

Happy to be here!

The descent of the Van Ho was mentally very sketchy in the roaring wind. We only saw the first two cairns so we stopped regularly and I verified my gps, got bearings from projecting the cursor and followed the compass. We also checked M-J’s Gaia app on her phone until it crapped out. We saw some familiar landmarks and as a special bonus we even saw a paint blaze through some ice. Below the cone we picked up a ski trail that dead-ended in the gully and with relief followed it to the Phelps junction.

The remainder of the hike was just a long, long but pleasantly-paced walk. We were soaking-wet and our packs weighed a ton with sopping wet gear that we had shed continuously and strategically as we progressed throughout our day. In falling darkness and clearing skies the wind positively roared as we walked out from Marcy Dam. I kept checking the tree-tops for signs of snapping trunks but no such worries came about.

Marie-Josée and Maude were awesome partners as were Alistair, Glen, Jean and Matt. In fact, one of the best things about this project is all the amazing hiking partners I’ve been blessed with so far.]]>Adirondack Trip ReportsNumNumhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/483957-february-9-10-11-the-macs-henderson-panther-and-couch-gray-skylight-marcySpiritus Draconis in Panther Gorge: 2018 February 1http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/adirondack-slides/slide-climbing-trip-reports/483943-spiritus-draconis-in-panther-gorge-2018-february-1
Tue, 13 Feb 2018 00:34:13 GMTDuration: 11 ¾ hours; 4:45 AM – 4:30 PM
Length/Vertical Gain: 14.75 miles/ 4,400 feet
Temperature: Near 20F (high 30’s in the valley)
With Jaryn...Duration: 11 ¾ hours; 4:45 AM – 4:30 PMLength/Vertical Gain: 14.75 miles/ 4,400 feetTemperature: Near 20F (high 30’s in the valley)With Jaryn "Stinger" DeShaneRoute Location on Mt. Marcy
The winter of 2017-2018 began harshly with extended periods of sub-zero temperatures. There was enough snow to deter me from pushing the limits of backcountry climbing, so I stayed along the road for a change. We then had a short “January thaw” with a couple of periods of rain. As often happens, a thaw and the possibility of a rain-crust prompted me to try and enter Panther Gorge. I had eyes on a stout line deep in the chasm south of the Chimney Wall. As with any trip, the outcome was uncertain, but the adventure was innate.

Jaryn DeShane signed on when I took a last minute vacation day to take advantage of a warm weather window. He’s become one of the most frequent visitors to Panther Gorge during the last couple years. We used the “Crofoot approach,” a way that Adam Crofoot scouted several years ago. It leverages the weaknesses in the clifftops after bushwhacking 1/3 mile from the Van Hoevenberg Trail (with 600’ of elevation loss). One just has to hit it dead on avoid the cliff-tops so this isn’t a recommended approach. Trust me when I say that unless you're carrying technical climbing gear and know how to use the equipment, you don't want to bushwhack down this area.

We departed from the Adirondack Loj at 4:45 AM; we wanted to be back early for a change. Jaryn wasn’t at 100%, and I needed to keep some energy in reserve. This year has been one of injury for many hikers, and the reason was obvious over the first 4-5 miles. The trail was almost pure ice. We found a little snow on top near the Tabletop Mtn. junction. Our walk up the trail was non-eventful other than walking into the clouds near the Phelps Trail intersection. Our bushwhack would be a “blind approach”—no line of sight navigation. I thought of all the people who have gotten lost near this area while hiking Marcy. It’s a treacherous area to become lost.

We broke left from the trail a little farther up toward the summit and wove through the ice-entombed trees on a modestly firm snowpack. It was not the hard crust I envisioned, but we only plunged a foot deep except for the occasional spruce trap. The trees were tightly woven for the first 800 ground feet, but they loosened as the grade increased and we dropped into the Gorge. I snarked, “I hope there’s ice down there.” Jaryn retorted, “Kevin, there better be ice!” Ghostly ledges riddled with thick flows sat to our north—a good sign for our concerns. Roughly 45 minutes later, we found a break in the trees as we approached the cliffs. We climbed down an icy ledge search of the gully atop the Chimney Wall. Nothing looked familiar though we were near the GPS point on Jaryn’s device. Hmm…north or south? We were close. Jaryn suggested we skirt the cliff nearby. At worst, we’d need to climb back up and search a bit more or rappel and search from the bottom. As it worked out, we contoured around the cliff and “fourth-classed” our way over to the Chimney Wall—the chimney was directly in front of us; the little detour hadn’t stymied the day. We slid down the gully to look up the dike. More ice (albeit thin) was in the chimney than during my previous winter visits. A full rack of rock climbing gear was still necessary to climb it. I spotted our potential line to the south. There seemed to be ice, and my pulse quickened.

The line may have been in sight, but bushwhack wasn’t over. This is a rugged area with small ledges and gullies down which we needed to walk. I looked up at the dual pitch climb and felt my hopes evaporate as I assessed the condition of the line. Wind and the contour of the cliff left the lower run of ice in a poor state. It was thin, hadn’t touched down and slightly overhung—scary. Thin vertical ice delaminating from the underlying black bedrock sat above. Only after about 30’ did the grade ease slightly. The upper column was climbable; a vertical pitch of blue/yellow ice some 50+ feet in height with parasols at the top. Looking wasn’t enough so I donned crampons and walked up to the base. I tapped and it resounded like a drum—hollow. …live to climb another day.

We turned our gaze 100’ to the south. Beta photos showed a northeastern aspect pitch of ice that I knew would be in climbable condition—a consolation prize of sorts. I usually hike in with a backup plan. It looked like a comfortable lead from below (famous last words) though nothing is really a “comfortable lead” this far into the backcountry. The yellow flow topped out in the trees to the right of an overhanging cliff a few hundred feet north of Grand Central Slide. The time stood at 10:30 AM so we had plenty of time to work on this and even a second line if we had the stamina. It seemed to be a solid grade 4 pitch, at least from below.Spiritus Draconis is on the left--leans from the wide angle lens. Center is the line that wasn't quite ready--looks harder in reality.Marcy's Agharta Wall ahead and Haystack on the right.
Packs dropped to the ground, and we set to the task of putting on harnesses and organizing the gear. The first swing of my axe into the climbable line was at 11:10 AM. I knew several things by 11:11 AM.

The ice was bullet hard and brittle.

The route was more difficult than it looked (as is usually the case).

I might tuck tail and back off.

I climbed the first 10 vertical feet to a short run of low angle ice and placed a screw. The screws took time to bite into the surface even though they were sharp. I sat for a few moments and collected myself knowing that I couldn’t simply muscle my way up. Placing pro from strenuous stances would take time. I had to think and move slowly. While I’m out in the backcountry a fair amount, I’m a relative babe on vertical ice compared to many in the area. This fact resonated with each swing of the axe and kick of the crampons. I didn’t want to underestimate the route or overestimate myself. I often space protection far apart—not today. A couple more moves placed me at the bottom of the vertical wall of yellow “china”. Such was the sound when we I struck the ice where it was hollow.

I briefly thought, “Why am I doing this?” Should I have Jaryn lower me from a screw and call it a day? I reconsidered—I was well protected and I spotted enough of a line where I could get on small though uncomfortable stances to place more pro. Similar thoughts have crossed my mind throughout my sojourns when I rub against my comfort zone. It’s also during these times that I learn the most about myself.Kevin leading the route.
I hooked (placing the pick in a hollow in the ice) and struck my way up a hollow curtain then found a slightly better stance from which to look around. I started up and broke a large plate off onto my shoulder before yelling, “Ice!” Higher was a larger ledge where I found an ice cave from which the lower part of the flow was building. The formation was interesting and harbored the only “soft” ice of the route.

Most people associate all ice with the term “hard.” Soft ice only makes sense when you climb it and realize that they are relative terms. One can feel the density of ice that’s seen little sunlight and been subjected to sub-zero temperatures with little seepage.

I was above the crux and had a good spot to rest so I took a moment to soak in the scenery. I had a much better view of the monster to the north, but Haystack’s cone was vanishing in the mist. The cloud ceiling was getting lower, and it was snowing harder though I could still see the lines on Marcy (Agharta and a few others) as well as a half dozen on Haystack that are still unclimbed to my knowledge. The gullies were loaded, and most of the cliffs had at least a thin tier of crystalline daggers decorating the edges. The entire Gorge seemed to be “in.” What a spectacular sight!
A short vertical pitch led to easier bulges at the top. I felt more in my element but didn’t relax. The ascent wasn’t over until I slung a stout evergreen at the top and shouted, “Off belay,” roughly 45 minutes after starting. It seemed like it had taken hours, but perspective is a odd thing. Every trip is a learning experience, and the 90’ of ice below was a strict teacher with a stiff ruler. It was Jaryn’s turn to get a taste of Panther Gorge ice for the first time.

I couldn’t see him on the vertical sections, but I could get a feel of what he was doing by a few choice words carried by the wind and the tension on the rope as I belayed. The occasional strike of a tool echoed off the nearby cliffs. I scanned the immediate scenery; the area was now socked in. The rope disappeared over the gray bulges and into the abyss. Eventually, Jaryn’s face popped into view with a smile. He was standing on the largest ledge. The perspective was particularly dramatic, so I took a few photos. It was turning out to be a good day!

He reached my stance and yelled, “That was a lot harder than it looked…what the…?”

“Yeah,” I snickered, “I noticed that on the way up!”Jaryn popping above the crux. Easy ice to the top. Goodbye visibility.

Our route was just one of the lines of the deep gorge. With the right conditions to build the ice, there are many short (100’-200’ range) potential new routes (WI4-5+ at a glance) in the surrounding area. It’s a difficult area to access, and it’s frustrating when one arrives and the ice hasn’t fully formed. In any case, an interesting name seemed in order: Draconis Spiritus (Dragon’s Breath) with a rating of WI4+ and probably a 5 if one adheres strictly to the climber’s left.

Jaryn rappelled first, and I heard, “Holy crap this is dead vertical.” I again laughed. Yup. We wanted something challenging relative to our skill level and had the wish fulfilled. In the end, the quality of the ice created much of the difficulty, but this is often the case with “high elevation” water ice that doesn’t see the sun, but does see frequent sub-zero temperatures.

We decided against hunting for a second route. Both of us wanted a shorter than normal day. It was only 12:30 PM when we finished the rappel so we were on track if all went well. There was just the issue of bushwhacking up to the Van Hoevenberg Trail…

Back at the Chimney Wall, it was the usual slog up a 45-degree slope with various forms of underlying ice. Thin ice smears and curtains adorned the cliff on our left: God’s “water art.” A flow ending in wind-whipped formations that looked like viper fangs guarded the exit. We changed into snowshoes once in the safety of the forest and began the slow task of trailbreaking. We angled north to intersect our approach path. The track had consolidated which helped save energy for the rest of the ascent.

Back on trail, we glissaded down the steep sections and made good time. The weather warmed to about 40F as we descended. Light rain was in the forecast, but we didn’t experience much precipitation other than the snow during our time in the Gorge. I knew we were on pace for the quickest turnaround time of one of these trips (personally speaking). Outings have always been longer than 12.5 hours with an average of 16.5. We arrived at the trailhead at 4:30 PM. Exiting with daylight to spare seemed strange. In the end; our pace, the “modest” itinerary, decent bushwhacking conditions and a short approach relative to our target cliff helped us finish the day in 11 hr. 45 minutes. It was a nice change, but not anything I expect to duplicate in the near future.

The exit below the bushwhack back up to Marcy's ridge--800 vertical feet below the Van Hoevenberg Trail.Top of the Chimney Wall gully--the rabbit hole.]]>Slide Climbing Trip Reportsmudrathttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/adirondack-slides/slide-climbing-trip-reports/483943-spiritus-draconis-in-panther-gorge-2018-february-1Finish of Winter 46http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-mountain-hiking/483933-finish-of-winter-46
Mon, 12 Feb 2018 19:26:43 GMTI am hoping to be able to complete my Winter 46 next Sunday (2/18/18). I have Hough, South Dix and Macomb left. I am thinking that I would do Hough...Adirondack Mountain HikingNalshttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-mountain-hiking/483933-finish-of-winter-46Avalanche Lake Ski (from UW) Sat 2.10http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/trail-conditions-aa/483927-avalanche-lake-ski-from-uw-sat-2-10
Mon, 12 Feb 2018 12:09:52 GMTWas going to hike to summits but the excellent ski conditions were irresistible. Skied from Upper Works to Avalanche Lake. It was a beautiful day in...
Evidence of post-holing on the trail, but the powder was deep enough to not be a bother. Passed a couple carrying snowshoes on their packs. Heard about another larger group not using snowshoes or skis.

Makes no sense to me, How is bare-booting in deep snow easier than wearing snowshoes?]]>Trail ConditionsDLhikerhttp://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/forum/hiking/adirondack-trip-reports/trail-conditions-aa/483927-avalanche-lake-ski-from-uw-sat-2-10