You can easily test the push switch by shorting the terminals it plugs into on the board. unplug the 2 wire connector and touch the terminals together with an insulated screwdriver. if it goes down(or up) you have your problem .

____________________As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

Okay. Went back and checked connections. All are correct. One was loose. I crimped it down and then tried shorting the two wires on the control board again and the motor started turning, just a few clicks and then it stopped. So, I am guessing the loose wire was the cause of the problem. So, this tells me the push switch is bad, right? Or am I more lost than I think I am?!?

Hasn't turned out yet! So sorry...I have been so busy planning two Halloween parties that I put the repair off until afterwards. Since I am going to have to completely uninstall the cooktop, I thought it best to wait. I will definitely post an update after installing the new switch. Thanks.

I know it have been a little over a year but I am just now finding the time to get this thing resolved. I installed the new push switch and was so excited to have a working downdraft vent again but no luck! The vent will raise and lower but I have to continuously hold the push switch. AND now the blower won't come on. It doesn't seem like any power is getting to the motor....no humming or anything. Thought the two limit switches had gone bad but had them tested today and was told they are still good. The control board is from October last year and has not been used but I guess it could still be the problem. Pretty sure I have everything wired correctly and I checked for tight connections. Is there a way for me to test it? What else do you think I could be looking at here?