Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

Nothing really prepares you for your first sight of PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE (torresdelpaine.com). The Paine Massif, the unforgettable centrepiece of the park, appears beyond the turquoise lakes long before you get close to it. The finest views of the massif are from the south bank of Lago Nordenskjöld, whose waters act as a great reflecting mirror. If driving through the park, take the southern entrance to constantly have the best views in front of you.

The centrepiece is made up of the twin peaks of Cerro Monte Almirante Nieto (2668m and 2640m). On the northern side are the soaring, unnaturally elegant Torres del Paine (“Paine Towers”), the icon of the park, and further west the sculpted, dark-capped Cuernos del Paine (“Paine Horns”). To the west of the park is the broad ice river of Glaciar Grey, and on the plains at the mountains’ feet, large herds of guanacos and the odd ñandú (rhea) still run wild; you’re more likely to spot these than the park’s more elusive fauna: pumas and the rare huermúl deer.

In January and February the park is crammed with holidaymakers, so the best months to visit are October, November and December or March and April. Although in winter (June–Sept) temperatures can fall to -10°C (14°F) or even lower, freezing lakes and icing over trails, the small numbers of visitors, lack of wind and often clear visibility can also make this another good time to come – just wrap up warmly.

Hiking routes

This may not be the place to taste true wilderness, but there are still plenty of places to lose the crowds. The two most popular hikes are the “W”, so-called because the route you follow looks like a “W”, up three valleys, taking you to the “stars” of the park – Las Torres, Valle del Francés and Glaciar Grey, and the “Circuit”, which leads you around the back of the park and encompasses the “W”; allow seven to ten days for the “Circuit” and at least four for the “W”.

The best way to tackle the “Circuit” is anticlockwise, as it also means you’ll have excellent views of Glacier Grey in front of you rather than behind you when you come to tackle the most challenging part of the hike – the Paso John Gardner.

It’s also best to do the “W” anti-clockwise, leaving the steepest hike to Las Torres until last, by which time you will have consumed most of your supplies. The first leg of the “W” is the hike there and back from Paine Grande Lodge to Glaciar Grey, described above. You can leave your gear at the lodge.

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Fire in the park

On December 27, 2011, a fire that was started by human negligence in the southern section of Torres del Paine quickly spread, exacerbated by the bone-dry conditions and strong winds. The Chilean government has been criticized for its slow and inadequate response; by the time the blaze was finally brought under control, over 130 square kilometres of forest had been destroyed. An Israeli tourist was detained on suspicion of accidentally causing the fire; he denied responsibility and there is some evidence that pressure may have been put on him to make a confession.

Sadly, the incident has exacerbated the anti-Israeli sentiment among some Patagonians, and the suspect was subjected to racial abuse as he was led to court. However, the majority of Puerto Natales citizens have responded in a constructive manner; in a bid to protect the park from future damage, there will now be compulsory talks on park safety at the Laguna Amarga entrance to Torres del Paine, as well as volunteer patrols in the park. It remains to be seen whether the Chilean government will fund a permanent ranger patrol.

On January 4, 2012, the Chilean government reopened eighty percent of the park to visitors; at the time of writing, Refugio Grey, Paine Grande Lodge, and the Guardas, Paso, Carretas, Italiano and Británico campsites were closed but to reopen in expected course.

Beyond the W: Torres del Paine alternatives

There is more to Torres del Paine than just the “Circuit” and the “W”; numerous shorter hikes can be just as spectacular.

Mirador Lago Grey and Mirador Ferrier

From the Lago Grey ranger station near Hotel Lago Grey, a short trail leads through the forest to the lake’s vast windswept beach, where you can watch house-sized chunks of bluish ice bobbling on the pale waters. To the left of the beach, by the jetty, a fairly steep unmarked trail skirts around the cliff before giving you an unobstructed view of Glaciar Gray. The most spectacular viewpoint of them all, Mirador Ferrier, lies a stiff two-hour hike up from behind the ranger station. From up there, you get a jaw-dropping vista over the park’s many lakes, their colours ranging from aquamarine to greyish white. At the top, you make your way through forest before emerging among exposed rocks; bring warm clothes as the icy wind can be ferocious.

Laguna Azul

There’s a three-and-a-half-hour signposted walk from the guardería at Laguna Amarga to Laguna Azul, a secluded and little-visited lake in the northeast. From there, a mostly gentle four-hour trail leads past Laguna Cebolla to Lago Paine. It used to be possible to hike to Lago Dickson and cross the narrowest part of the lake to Refugio Dickson, but the boat is no longer functioning, though if you are on horseback, you can wade across Río Paine and continue along this trail to a viewpoint overlooking Glaciar Dickson.

Mirador Zapata

Another seldom-trod path takes you up to Mirador Zapata, a steep six-to seven-hour climb from Guardería Lago Grey at the southern tip of Lago Grey, itself a four-and-a-half-hour walk from the park administration building, rewarding you with views of the ice cap and the magnificent Glaciar Pingo. Campamento Pingo is half an hour into the trek, and Campamento Zapata an hour and a half from the mirador, making it an ideal overnight stop.