How to Prune a Downy Serviceberry Tree

Downy serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea), also known as Juneberry, thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. The plant gets its name for the fuzzy gray, downy-like covering on emerging leaves that falls off as leaves mature. They boast white flowers in early spring, purple bird-attracting berries in late spring to early summer, and yellow, orange and red leaves in fall. Without regular pruning to maintain size and shape, downy serviceberry can grow up to 40 feet tall and 20 feet wide. Never prune while the plant is in bloom. You can prune in late winter before buds set or in summer after leaves mature, but autumn is best because the trees lose very little sap at this time of year.

1

Select a single trunk at planting, if desired, to train the plant into a single trunk tree. Choose the straightest, strongest, central-most trunk and cut the other stems back to the point of origin at the base of the plant. Skip this step if you prefer to enjoy the plant as a multi-stemmed tree or shrub.

2

Remove all suckers that grow from the base of the trunk if you want to maintain a tree shape; remove the suckers as they develop throughout the year by simply plucking them off with your fingers. Allow these lower suckers to grow if a shrub form is desired.

3

Step back from the downy serviceberry to observe its shape. Cut the tips of any branches that are too long. Cut at a 45-degree angle with the cut side facing down. Cut the branches so they are balanced with the branches on the opposite side of the tree. Aim for the tree or shrub canopy to have a balanced, rounded shape throughout.

4

Cut any dead or broken branches back to the point of intersection with a healthy, strong branch or about one-quarter inch above the nearest healthy bud or leaf node. Always cut to the outside of the branch collar, the layer of tissue at the base of the branch, because cutting through the collar leaves the plant open to rot.

5

Remove branches with weak or narrow crotches that are potential weak spots for the tree; a minimum of 60-degree angle with the intersecting branch is ideal for encouraging a strong structure.

6

Remove rubbing or crossing branches, as well as any branches that grow inward. Always select the strongest branch that has a wide crotch and grows up and out to fill out the tree. Prune away branches that grow down or inward.

7

Remove suckers from the crotches of branches as they develop; these suckers do not grow into strong branches, so removing them diverts the plant's energy back to the main structural branches.

Things You Will Need

Bypass pruners

Lopping shears

Pruning saws

Tip

Bypass pruners are most practical when pruning the narrow ends of branches and suckers. Lopping shears work best on thicker branches up to 1 1/2 inch diameter. A pruning saw might be needed if you must remove whole branches back to the trunk.

About the Author

A former cake decorator and competitive horticulturist, Amelia Allonsy is most at home in the kitchen or with her hands in the dirt. She received her Bachelor's degree from West Virginia University. Her work has been published in the San Francisco Chronicle and on other websites.