I'd like a 231 to 231 doubler but it seems like no one makes one on a consistent basis. I spent some time researching it and info. was spotty at best. Lots of people left hanging.... I'm good with my gearing, I compensate by smoking the **** outta my clutch. Haha.

My suggestion after running the hammers a few weekends ago would be get that 8.8 under there sooner than later. Running 35's in jv you end up putting your tires in lots of crackes and undercuts. Which binds things up pretty good

Pic from the plaque on sledge

The line is up and over the rock my front left tire is on. But my jeep just did not have the traction or wheelbase for that line

I was just able to see those photos on an actual computer screen. Those are some cool shots and that ledge looks like they type of thing in a stock wheelbase TJ that would be pretty uncomfortable. I can't wait to try it.

I think Duffy with D&D machine is still making the kit just a hard man to get ahold of.

Provided you find the parts at the least you need a super short SYE.
In Nates case putting the Terra lo behind the crawl box is a terrible idea.
Damned things don't last with some abusive crawling without adding more torque to it. Cutting the case of the Terralo will void the much needed warranty. Other option is a D300 and flip it, so it will bleed oil like a stuck hog, friend of mine did that ended up having to buy a Stack case for it to stop that. To get any real use out of that setup, you would want 4:1 gears at the cost of close to 800 bucks, Atlas in your flavor sound good yet? Other option is a Klune with an old Bronco transfercase, problem with the Bronco case is poor tooth contact in lo range get throttle happy in lo lo range and it will break the teeth off atleast one of the low range gears friend of mine has been there done that.

I remember a product coming up in the forums about sealing the D300 better preventing the leak. I cant remember where I read it or what the sealant was but I remember it being a great product to fix that issue. Atlas is great but the price tag is not especially if a doubler is done right you can lo-lo a deep ratio for half the price. With the issue of breaking parts I know going lo-lo with any doubler setup its best to not throttle out, you'd want a hand throttle to avoid to high of a rpm when crawling.

What about a built up 205, I hear lomax has a 3:1 kit that is fantastic.

Novak cable shifter installed. Nice little device! Nice and crisp shifting now, and now I have a very happy flat skid set up.... Pretty happy about that for how little it cost me.

Also on the t case issue.... I went round and round in my head trying to justify the hassle of it all, and decided I'm happy with my teralow until the right upgrade is available or makes sense. The "black box". Looked to be the nicest option though. I crawl around pretty good as it is so I'm not that motivated to change any of it.

For SURE. But going up to 37's is just an all around dumb idea unless I feel like spending about 5k to make it right. Tires, rims, gears, 8.8 done, new front axle unless I want to stick with 4.88, T case.... just a slew of problems for ONE more inch under the diff. I just can't see it happening until I'm just plain bored and ready to spend.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aw12345

My buddy, tried everything to seal it, the shafts would leak and some other places. Till he got the Stack housing for it, he could not get it to stop leaking.

This is what I hear also..... time and time again. I'm not interested in that T case at all.

Ok here's a real tech question..... I just discovered my rear yoke nut backed off. I torqued it to 150ft lbs. during SYE installation. What gives? I noticed because the yoke had a little play in it, I also used the funky plastic washer, but didn't recall any mention of using loctite? Upon a brief search of the issue it appears that maybe some RED loctite is in order? Art????

The rubber/ plastic washer is to keep oil from seeping past the splines inside the yoke. A bead of RTV works good for that.
Red loctite will keep the nut in place. If the splines in the yoke are beat out it's gonna a battle to keep it all tight. Even if the nut is tight the the Yoke will working on the shaft, depending on that you can twist it on the shaft a lil.

The rubber/ plastic washer is to keep oil from seeping past the splines inside the yoke. A bead of RTV works good for that.
Red loctite will keep the nut in place. If the splines in the yoke are beat out it's gonna a battle to keep it all tight. Even if the nut is tight the the Yoke will working on the shaft, depending on that you can twist it on the shaft a lil.

Ok cool, the entire deal has under 100 miles on it and most of that was wheeling so I'm pretty sure everything is in good shape, I must have just botched the initial install. I'll button that back up tomorrow with some loctite and take it from there. Thanks!

Did it fight you much? I forgot what a pain it is to get to some of those bolts when your t-case is pushed up to the floor like mine, must have taken me 2 hrs to get it off haha

I think i've been messing around in that area so much lately that it went on without a fight for me. That top T case bolt doesn't leave much room to swing a wrench but I got a couple clicks per swing out of my ratcheting wrench.... just took some patience. It was easier to install and adjust than I thought it would be, that's for sure.

I think i've been messing around in that area so much lately that it went on without a fight for me. That top T case bolt doesn't leave much room to swing a wrench but I got a couple clicks per swing out of my ratcheting wrench.... just took some patience. It was easier to install and adjust than I thought it would be, that's for sure.