Finally after dealing with work and family schedules I am going to be able to install the Tera Flex 2.5 w/ Bilstein 5100's on my '12 JK. I have the exhaust spacers ready to go too. I am hoping I can get some install tips and "do's and dont's" based on your experiences that will make this process as smooth and easy as possible. I am sure that many of you have it down to a science and some of your invaluable knowlege would be much appreciated.
Cant wait to put up pics!

I would seriously have the jack situation in control before you start. We wasted so much time with short jacks, and wood pieces for stands, it literally killed about 3 hours of time, jacking up, rejacking, etc...

Tall jack stands on frame close to lca's mounts that are tall enough to keep tires off the ground. 10 mm to take brake line off the frame and also pull the ABS wires off metal holder connected to top ball joints. That will keep you from messing up the wire.

Also, take 20 minutes to stand back and check you have all the right tools as per instructions, before starting. I know it sounds obvious but I was gung ho and brain farted and just brought a brand new 160 piece socket and wrench set assuming I was covered. It didnt come with any 18mm or 21mm pieces (a real intergral part of the puzzle). Being 18 miles from the nearest hardware store , my first day was comsumed by quite a bit of curse filled driving.

BTW , as far as tall jacks go, I had no regrets picking up a 48inch hi-jack lift from pep boys for 74 bucks and 2, 6 ton jackstands for 40 bucks from the tractor supply store. Between those, the stock jack and a couple of 3 ton jackstands I had lying around, I was more than covered

Iirc, you'll want a box end wrench AND socket for all the sizes listed in instructions. Torque wrench that goes up to 150 ft/lbs is a must for lca's. While you do the lift is a great time to swap lca and track bar bolts to shouldered 9/16 grade 8!

This may sound like a no-brainer but I see it way too often. DO NOT tighten your control arm pivots, sway bars or panhard bars(trac bars) until after it is sitting down on the ground with weight on them. I see way too often people tighten everything prior to putting it on the ground and then there is too much bushing pre-load tightened into the joints causing them to wear at an increased rate. It can also cause some weird handling characteristics.

I generally anti-seize the fasteners and install them with the nuts finger tight. Set it on the ground and bounce on each corner a couple of times to give everything a chance to "find its home". At that point I will crawl under and tighten the fasteners to the proper torque.

Also, make sure to keep safety at the forefront of the entire job. Be cautious about where you place jacks/stands. Don't get in too big of a hurry and enjoy the time wrenching on your Jeep.

if you have a drill bit long enough, drill the hole in the factory bracket through the hole in the new bracket while it's attached to the factory one coming off the frame. You'll need a LONG drill bit to drill from under the Jeep to the outside.

I used the template to drill mine and the holes didn't line up 100% so I used a step drill bit to try and expand and make them even. This did not turn out too well as I egged out the holes and it creates a hiccup in the system that popped a lot. I had to take it to a buddy's shop and have him throw a weld in the holes and then grind them down. I then drilled the new hole in the factory and new bracket while it was attached to the frame so the holes were 100% perfect.

if you have a drill bit long enough, drill the hole in the factory bracket through the hole in the new bracket while it's attached to the factory one coming off the frame. You'll need a LONG drill bit to drill from under the Jeep to the outside.

I used the template to drill mine and the holes didn't line up 100% so I used a step drill bit to try and expand and make them even. This did not turn out too well as I egged out the holes and it creates a hiccup in the system that popped a lot. I had to take it to a buddy's shop and have him throw a weld in the holes and then grind them down. I then drilled the new hole in the factory and new bracket while it was attached to the frame so the holes were 100% perfect.

Not a huge to deal to fix it, but kind of a pain

ya, mine did not line up either. Instructions warn not to expand the hole.
I got lucky. No pops/noises

Don't get cocky after you get the first side in. I lowered my axle enough to remove the stock coil then lowered it some more to put the longer one in. I then proceeded to the other side with the knowledge that this was a piece of cake.

I got the stock coil out and the new one just wouldn't fit no matter how much I cursed at it or pushed the axle down. I was ready to give up when I noticed the floor jack holding the axle up. I forgot to lower it some more.

__________________
Tom

"I've got two things in this world, my balls and my word and I don't break them for no one."

[QUOTE=Rooster454;2197701]if you have a drill bit long enough, drill the hole in the factory bracket through the hole in the new bracket while it's attached to the factory one coming off the frame. You'll need a LONG drill bit to drill from under the Jeep to the outside.

I think I understand what you mean, I will look at the instructions and perhaps there are photos of what you are discussing (i just cant get the picture in my head) I plan on printing all these tips and ideas and numbering them to correspond with the numbered instructions so i can refer to these tips during install which I am sure will make more sense while I am underneath.

While working on the front, the sway bar itself flopped down without the links attached. we attached the links with the arms of the sway bar facing the front of the jeep. Basically in front of the drag link/TB/TR. supposed to face the rear.
I think we were going to lower the jeep and realized the links about to come in contact with the drag link as the suspension compressed. If we would have just dropped the jeep to the ground-without paying attention- it would have been bad lol

We then disco'd the links again and flipped the sway bar the correct way. No harm done

Always look around when you are lowering /raising the jeep or axle. Catch a mistake before something bad happens

ya, mine did not line up either. Instructions warn not to expand the hole.
I got lucky. No pops/noises

Yeah I know it did, but I could not get the screw in because the holes looked like part of the olympic rings symbol and I thought with the step drill bit I could expand it to be straight pretty easily easy fix tho a pain in the butt

[QUOTE=RPN516;2197961]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rooster454

if you have a drill bit long enough, drill the hole in the factory bracket through the hole in the new bracket while it's attached to the factory one coming off the frame. You'll need a LONG drill bit to drill from under the Jeep to the outside.

I think I understand what you mean, I will look at the instructions and perhaps there are photos of what you are discussing (i just cant get the picture in my head) I plan on printing all these tips and ideas and numbering them to correspond with the numbered instructions so i can refer to these tips during install which I am sure will make more sense while I am underneath.

yes look at the instructions, it's on page 2 or 3 I think. Basically the new bracket fits inside the stock on as they are both shaped like the letter U. and you drill a hole in the stock one that lines up with the hole in the new bracket inside.

What I'm saying is if you're worried about that part not lining up and have a drill bit long enough, consider putting the new bracket in place the the screws and then sitting under the rear of the car facing out so you can use the hole in the new bracket as a guide to drill through so you know the holes will work.

I don't know if this makes it any clearer, but look at the instructions and you should be able to figure out what I mean