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I looked through some of the treadmill conversations in this forum before but am hoping someone here can help with the particular issues I am having..

I live in a studio in a block of 12 apartments. I have a foldable ~65 lb treadmill I use for walking and running. It's on wood floors. Right now it's about a foot and a half from the hallway wall (a bookshelf between) with a closet behind it.

Is there a way to improve the vibration absorption beneath the treadmill? Or is the answer to improve the vibration absorption of the closet (which has a door, but a flimsy one with a mirror)? I'm going to move it to another wall and hope it helps, but I'm a little worried since the studio is so small. Is moving it 7 feet away to another, outer facing wall really going to help? And if it does, will it bother our upstairs neighbors?

Hello everyone I need help soundproofing my pipes and ceiling. I need advice on how I should go upon this. I was thinking buying roxul to fill in the hole and then installing Sheetrock onto the ceiling in order to block out the noise whenever my neighbors walk and open doors. Please I am looking for the most effective way to soundproof this situation

Looking for some help... I live .30 miles from a major road. The road has 2 lanes in each direction with cars going 45mph. My house is at the end of a dead end on a street that is about 20-30 ft above the major road. I bring up elevation because I’m not sure if elevation has anything to do with the increase in noise i hear at my house. When I walk down the hill towards the major road and am on streets that are level in elevation with the road, the noise is not nearly as bad even though it’s much closer to the source. Can you please help me understand why I’m hearing the noise louder at my house than when I’m closer to The source and what I can do to make the sound less noticeable and tolerable. Please help as I am starting to go crazy with the noise!

The mass of the fence/wall is important but what gives you the value is the diffracted path and shadow zone..

The distance from the road to the fence is normal, The problem I see is the distance from the fence to the house, a 10' fence might take the edge of the traffic noise off but I would not expect more then 3db drop at best.

What I would do (if you can) is go to the neighbors house and stand at the 10' wall in there yard then start walking away from it and you will hear the sound increase when you reach the end of the quiet zone.If this value is acceptable then proceed.

My fiance and I are currently in the process of purchasing a home. The house is beautifully redone and is on a ~1 acre lot that, unfortunately, backs up to a pretty major road - 4 lanes (2N, 2S) with speed limit of 45mph. Were it not for this negative the house would certainly be out of our price range, and so we've decided to compromise on the presence of some street noise.

That being said, the majority of the noise problem is outside. Inside, with the windows closed (presumably b/c they're brand new) we can't hear any street noise.

The fence along the back of the yard needs to be replaced. It's pretty rotted and essentially falling down in a few places (as you can see in the pictures). Since we're going to rip the thing out and replace it anyway, we want to consider what our options are in terms of trying to get the most noise reduction we can.

I've done a bunch of reading and the biggest factors seem to be mass and height. The fence itself is roughly 50 ft from the road, while the yard is then ~200 feet from the back of the house to the fence. It' essentially a flat line between the house and the road. The lot is ~140 feet wide

I know there are issues with city ordinances, which I will look in to, but I know a couple of our neighbors have fences that look like they're 10ft or so along the back of the property line.

The plan right now is to have a fence built and line it pretty densely with trees and shrubs. I have a couple questions, though, about materials for the fence.

I've read a bit about using MLV in conjunction with a wood fence to add some absorption to the sound dampening. I'd love to hear someone's experience with this and whether it was deemed worthwhile from a cost perspective. I saw in another thread here it also suggested to add cement board, presumably to add some more mass to the fence?

We've also considered having a cement wall built, but this seems like it would be prohibitively expensive. We need to fence a good chunk of the rest of the yard as well (have a couple of dogs), so the budget is a concern.

Building a bern also seems infeasible given the location of that shed structure and the proximity to the road.

You must decouple the drywall from the joist system.insulating the cavity is a must , you can add MLV barrier to help control and contain noise in the cavity followed by using clips and channel (a must do for impact) Then I normally follow that by double 5/8" drywall with green glue in between.

feel free to reach out direct to discuss particulars and additional tips.

My upstairs neighbours are driving me crazy since with their kids running and jumping for hours on end and at very early (5-6 AM) hours on weekends!

What would be the best soundproofing solution for my needs? I very rarely hear voices or screaming but when I do it's very faint and tolerable but it's the impact noise from their feet, objects being dropped and furniture being moved that really drives me mad.

The footsteps are very bassy sounding so very low frequency I would say in the hundreds of Hz or so not sure how to measure that though.

My ceinling is made of cement and is 2.8 m heigh. I was told that the best option is to make a drywall false ceiling and stuff the gap with high density (100 kg/m3) rockwool material.

Not sure if this is the best solution for my needs and I want to block all the noise if possible.

How much lower will the new false ceiling have to be? is 40cm lower enough?

So many variables at play here and I would love to hear what the experts have to say.