Prunning Trees

Of all the living creatures in the care of a landscape contractor,
trees can be the most unforgiving. Much like a child, how they are
disciplined in their youth will determine how they grow up. The guidance
you provide that young sapling will effect how it grows. And how it
grows will affect how much work awaits you in that tree’s future.

The best approach to pruning doesn’t involve saws and
ladders; all it requires is a little foresight before even planting
the tree. If you’re involved in the selection process, recommend the
appropriate tree to your client depending on several factors. Of course,
the client may have a particular type of tree they want planted. Armed
with knowledge you can influence that decision, especially if the
client is heading down the wrong garden path.

First and foremost, pay careful attention to landscape,
noting the location of immovable objects that can be either damaged
or get in the way as the tree matures. Power lines are of particular
concern as most municipalities don’t like the mix of branches and
electricity. Avoid planting trees directly under power lines. It will
save you and your client lots of grief.

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The location of septic systems and water lines should also be high
on your list of what to look out for. As a tree matures, its unseen
roots can wreck havoc to underground pipes, costing the property owner
thousands of dollars. Sidewalks and phone lines can also fall victim
to unbridled growth.

It is for those reasons, you should work with you client in selecting a
tree that will satisfy their landscaping needs, without outgrowing the
space where it will be planted. This is where your knowledge of trees and
their growth habits will pay off in dividends. But remember, a little bit
of knowledge is dangerous. Don’t present yourself as an expert if you’re
not. Consult with an arborist before making an uninformed decision.

Now in an ideal world, you would have a say in selecting all the trees
in your care; but in the real world, you will have to play the hand that
you’re dealt. Depending on their size and location, pre-existing trees
will need to be managed. Keeping that undisciplined child in line begins
with pruning.

Generally, newly planted trees should only be pruned to remove damaged
branches. The goal at this stage of development is to help it produce a
strong structure that will provide the framework of the mature tree. By
properly training young trees, they will develop a strong structure that
requires less corrective pruning as they mature. In a few years,
additional pruning can be performed as necessary. Usually the most common
reasons for pruning trees fall under these categories: risk reduction;
aesthetic effect; improvement of tree vigor and health; and vista creation
and maintenance.

Risk reduction involves the removal of branches that could fall and
cause injury or damage to property. While the property owner may bring
this to your attention, more than likely, if you don’t notice it, the
problem while go unaddressed until it’s too late.

Since you’re regularly servicing the property, it just makes sense to
keep your eyes open for any situations where safety is compromised. When
possible, bring it to the property owner’s attention before doing the
work. But don’t hesitate to take action. This is a perfect example of
where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Your client will be
grateful for the economic and legal woes you’ve helped him avoid; and the
goodwill your preventive measure generates will translate into priceless
word of mouth advertising and increased business.

While pruning for aesthetic affect may sound like the superficial
equivalent of plastic surgery, in fact, it has a functional value. Done
properly, aesthetic pruning will stimulate flower growth, while enhancing
the natural form and character of the tree.

You want to consider the tree’s natural form before trying to impose
some unachievable ideal. The most common shape a tree’s crown will take is
either pyramidal or spherical. The strong central stem of trees with
pyramidal crowns rarely has to compete with lateral branches for
dominance.

Trees with spherical crowns will have many lateral branches that often
compete for dominance. Nature will often do its own self-pruning, shedding
branches that do not produce enough carbohydrates from photosynthesis and
die. Additional pruning will not only remove unsightly branches that were
splintered by nature, but will also help increase the tree’s strength and
longevity by encouraging wound closure.

A tree’s vigor and health can also be improved by removing
insect-infested and diseased wood before the invaders can spread and
infest healthy portions of the tree. Pruning branches that are rubbing
together can improve air flow by thinning the crown. This helps promote a
strong structure that gives the tree a fighting chance during severe
weather occurrences.

The maintenance and creation of vistas may dominate the attention trees
in your care receive. Whether it’s to shape the trees to fit a particular
look, or create a desirable vista that the client desires, it’s still
imperative that you consider the needs of the tree. Educating your client
will go a long way in helping them realize what can be done, what can’t be
done, and what should be done.

Before taking out that saw or tree pruner, you should take note of the
tree’s relative age. When pruning a small tree, experts recommend
shaping the tree so it has a strong trunk with sturdy, well-spaced
branches. You want to make sure it has a single, dominant stem that
shouldn’t be pruned, with secondary branches that shouldn’t be allowed to
outgrow the dominant stem.

Since every cut you make has the potential to alter how the tree will
grow, don’t just randomly make a cut because you think it will look good.
Make sure there’s a reason for every cut you make. Your mistakes will last
the life of a tree.

It’s best to begin training a young tree during the dormant season
following planting. Pruning to shape young trees is acceptable, but never
cut back the leader. Remove branches that grow back toward the center of
the tree. And as the tree matures, remove branches that are spaced too
closely on the trunk, along with lower branches as to gradually raise the
crown.

The older the tree, the more careful you have to be when pruning.
Cutting its limbs and branches can affect its energy reserves, lessening
its natural defenses and opening the door for insects and pathogens.
Because mature trees are usually larger than younger trees, the wounds
from pruning will also be larger and take considerably more time to
heal.

Generally, the most common types of pruning on a mature tree involve
crown thinning, crown raising and crown reduction.

Crown thinning helps increase the light penetration and air movement
throughout the tree. You must be careful when selectively removing
branches with no more than one-quarter of the living crown to be removed
at any time. If more needs to be removed, it’s best to do it over several
years to avoid unnecessary stress to the tree.

Crown raising
involves the removal of branches from the bottom of a tree to provide
necessary clearances. More than likely, this will be the primary pruning
on the properties on your route. Be sure to leave enough branches in the
crown. The ratio of living crown to total tree height should be at least
two-thirds.

Crown reduction is considered a method of last resort, and is used when
a tree has grown too large for the space where it was planted. Also known
as drop crotch pruning, it is preferred over topping because it minimizes
stress to the tree, has a more natural appearance, and when done properly,
will increase the time between prunings.

Choosing the right tool for the job before you start will save you a
lot of headaches further down the road. The sizes of the branches to be
cut will determine whether you use hand pruners, lopping shears, pruning
saws or a chain saw. Whatever your choice, make sure cutting surface of
the tool is sharp and clean. A dull blade or chain can tear the bark; a
clean tool will help prevent the spread of disease.

There are some universally agreed upon guidelines for how and when
pruning should be done. Late winter, just before the spring growth spurt
begins is best for the tree. Whatever wounds are caused by pruning will
only be exposed for a short period of time before new growth will bring
about the healing process. And since leaves won’t block your view of the
branches, you’ll be able to better assess what needs to be trimmed

Carful pruning helps keep trees
healthy and gives them a longer life.

Pruning cuts on a permanent branch should be made at the point where
one branch or twig attaches to another, known as a node. You want to prune
above a bud facing the outside of the tree in order to force the new
branch to grow in that direction. Avoid cuts made between branches, known
as internodal cuts; that can lead to sprout production, stem decay and
misdirected growth

The preferred technique for pruning large branches involves what is
called the three-cut method. This will allow for the removal of an
unwanted branch while avoiding tearing the bark. It involves making an
undercut 12”-18” from the limb’s point of attachment. Then, make a second
cut above the undercut, about an inch past it. Keep cutting until the
branch breaks free.

Finally, cut off the stub just outside the branch collar. This is
critical step. You will damage the tree unnecessarily if you remove the
branch collar because it contains trunk or parent branch tissue. Injuring
this stem tissue will effect the time it takes for the tree to heal. You
want it to heal as soon as possible.

Always keep in mind that a tree is a living creature, the oldest living
creature on this planet. Some of the trees in your care were probably
there before you were born. If you do a good job, they will be there long
after you’re gone.

Joyce Kilmer wrote, “I think that I shall never see a poem as lovely as
a tree… A tree that looks at God all day, and lifts her leafy arms to
pray… Poems are made my fools like me, but only God can make a tree.”

Trees may be God’s work, but caring for them is man’s work. Keeping these
majestic creatures alive is a noble cause. By following some basic
guidelines, the trees in your care will be a shining example of poetry
in motion.