thats becasue they use stiffer 5 leaves in the front.In the rear, to make it ride smother, they use a lesser spring rate spring, but add a extra one so the ride quality is there but carries enought overall spring rate fo the lighter rear of the jeep and some gear

Haven't got much done in the past few weeks due to being busy with work (which is a great thing right now) and life in general getting in the way. But Yesterday I did finally received the STAK 3 speed mini box Tcase for the Jeep after an 11 week wait. Good thing I was not in a hurry.....

Every Jeep needs to have a little BLING BLING on it so here is mine.......

you will get way more flex out of the spring over i used rough country wrangler 3in lift springs ,spring over to clear my 44s,and i fabricated a traction bar that mounts to a cross member on a shakle, i still get great amounts of flex and i have no u joint binding,had this setup for about 5 years now. your jeep looks great cant wait to see it done. nothing better than a jeep on full width one tons.

pattern looks good... make sure you have the right amount of backlash and bearing preload and you should be good to go.... from memory you want about .007" backlash in the ring gear, I wouldn't set them up any tighter. up to about .009" is in the specs from what I remember. I think it's about 20 in-lbs on the pinion without the carrier and then .010" on the carrier bearing preload... (if anyone has the specs in front of them feel free to correct me)

Ok time for some update photos. Since I don't want this to turn into another of my 2 to 5 year long car projects. I decided that I'm not going to stretch the wheelbase (for now) and run the 35" tires that I have. This way I can get this thing back on the road/trail sooner and figure out what my next mods will be. After all a jeep project is never really done. I just hope to get some use out of before phase two of the build.

Got the Front Dana60 all rebuilt 4.88 gears an a ARB locker...still have to rebuilt the brake calibers..

New axle joints..just used spicer joints as I 'm running the stock 30 spline outers for now...

Installed the new front diff cover..

And now it is rolling high on 35". It does sit higher than I had wanted but it is growing on me. Height to the top of the windsheild is 77 1/2" and from the bottom of the frame rail to the ground is 24 1/2" and 21 1/4" to the bottom of the stock skid plate.

Ran my steering links and had a issue. so I'm looking for feed back if I did the right thing here. My Drag link when mounted to the pitman arm in the stock location hit my tierod bar, so I mounted the the drag link to the top of the pitman arm instead of under. it seams to clear fine now. Will this be fine or am I over looking something?????? Like a major bump steer problem????

Last edited by NitzPixs; March 11th, 2009 at 08:14 AM.
Reason: Photo added

NitzPixs;1574071]Ran my steering links and had a issue. so I'm looking for feed back if I did the right thing here. My Drag link when mounted to the pitman arm in the stock location hit my tierod bar, so I mounted the the drag link to the top of the pitman arm instead of under. it seams to clear fine now. Will this be fine or am I over looking something?????? Like a major bump steer problem????

if thats a TRE at the pitman/drag interface then flipping it means your tapper is reversed (the parts oppose each other) so youll have very little contact area between the two and it will wobble out in short order. if running it that way solves your problem, you may want to drill out the pitman and go to a hiem on that end.

if you eyeball down one end of the axle, are the tie rod and drag link roughly parallel ? if not you can get some weirdness with clearance, limited travel lock to lock, etc. if the passenger side arm has two holes, then your long term solution should be running the drag link to the arm itself, that may clear up the interferance as well.

you can ream the opposite side of the arm 1/2 way down so you basically have the same taper on both sides. make sure it's tight, I've done many this way and none have had problems.... I would do that before a heim unless you make a double shear pitman arm to mount it.

Thanks for the feed back. I'm running Parts Mike High Steer Arms with the single hole on them. Sorry the picture is sideways but they do run parallel like you said. Also I should have said that I had already removed the pitman arm and reamed it for the other direction. So I guess I'm good to go..again thanks.

The TRE nut still looks close in the picture, but we cycled the suspension and it clears. just a bad camera angle.

i dont know much about leafs but why are the ubolts on the drivers side different from the pass side. also looks like the ones in the pass side are spreading apart. dunno if it matters just curious if it would cause issues. looks like a nice jeep.

Thanks for the feed back. I'm running Parts Mike High Steer Arms with the single hole on them. Sorry the picture is sideways but they do run parallel like you said. Also I should have said that I had already removed the pitman arm and reamed it for the other direction. So I guess I'm good to go..again thanks.

The TRE nut still looks close in the picture, but we cycled the suspension and it clears. just a bad camera angle.

my fault for assuming things - i read it like you were mocking it up to test the idea. youre all set - and again, nice work.