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At this point I'd say use anything that works since you're making new holes anyways.

ctsuba is his board name but because he barely posts I don't think he has PM and doesn't even show up as a member when you search.

If you really want to go stock I'll be talking to him later and let him know your situation. He has an ff-1 sitting on his property and an unbelievable amount of rusting panels and ff-1 parts in general - most of which are fairly well protected from sunlight and weather , excepting the sheetmetal left outside. His problem is that he really doesn't have the time , or the desire to take the time , for sifting thru all his stuff for some tiny items that the user (not saying you , but history shows us as mostly cheap bastids) doesn't want to offer dirt for. That's his take and I agree for the most part. People don't seem to realize that somebody went thru a lot of trouble and outright expense to save parts for restorations ,etc.

Found some latches at Pick'n'pull on a 70's Corolla that should work. They mount nice and flat and their bolt holes are far away from the stock ones on the FF-1 so I won't have any overlap issues (FYI, the stock screw holes were just drilled into the frame, no actual threads for bolts or anything).

Also took the window squeegees from the Corolla since they were in perfect shape. Gonna take some work to get them to work, but I think they will do just fine.

You could use polyurethane to glue it down. Can be kind of messy though and a little can go a long way. It's the same stuff that glass guys use to glue windshields into the vehicle. Can take up to 24 hours to cure properly and I would use painter tape to hold the moulding in place while it cures.

You could use polyurethane to glue it down. Can be kind of messy though and a little can go a long way. It's the same stuff that glass guys use to glue windshields into the vehicle. Can take up to 24 hours to cure properly and I would use painter tape to hold the moulding in place while it cures.

I actually have some of that, works pretty well, but its pretty thick.

Got both frames installed now. Both doors don't close, although the passenger one closes farther than the driver side. I need to adjust the driver side door cause the frame is hitting the body a little.

This sounds drastic but you can bend the metal where the door rubbers mount to give you more clearance so the doors can close. This was accepted practice to stop leaks many years ago (1960s and 1970s).

Original rubber (if the FF1 has similar door rubber to later models) would have been shaped like a open 'C' in cross section. The newer bulb type is like a closed 'O' (again in cross section) which does not flatten out as much with the door closed.

I hope this makes sense to read! This would explain why your doors at sticking out a bit. As mentioned you may have to bend the metal in a little to give correct clearance.

Got the rear side windows installed. The latches from the old Corolla seem to work perfectly:

Took a bit of finesse to get those installed, and I had to modify the top little bracket because the changes to the paint/body made it impossible to use how it was before (had a little nub thing, removed that and made a hole for a bolt instead). My uncle helped out this time, and he came up with the idea of removing part of the bulb seal temporarily to get these in, I would have never thought of that, LOL!

I've been smelling fuel in the garage the last week or so, and I found that the fuel line that went to the carb was leaking a bit. So I pulled the car out of the garage for today.

I went to fiddle with the fuel line and as soon as I did it started spewing fuel EVERYWHERE! I clamped it as quickly as I could, but not before a lot of fuel got in the engine bay.

I figured there was something going on with fuel pressure, so I went to unplug the fuel cap... Couldn't get it off. Had to tap it a few times and finally get a good enough grip on it, and as soon as I did the thing EXPLODED like a shaken soda can!!!

I have no idea whats going on with that, but I'm leaving the fuel cap off for now. I figure something is wrong with the fuel tank being pressurized like that, might have to do with running the fuel pump last year and leaving it sitting for so long with all the changes in temperature over that time.

Any ideas about whats going on? Maybe I need some sort of pressure-release fuel cap?

Yeah , spotted that too. Please give us some details on the "shell" and other cars and parts....anyone who ventures.

I actually bought my 71 sedan from this guy.. I picked the one that was in the best shape.. 2 were complete shells.. the good coupe was in pretty bad shape rust wise, but if someone knows how or has the funds to get the bodywork done it would be real nice.. they have all been sitting there for over 25 years and he has the titles for a few of them still... PM me if someone needs more info on them..