You'd be better off buying a blacktop 2.0 mondeo engine and build up the parts and then bolt it in when it's done, Search on here and google and there will be loads of threads about parts etc. There was a thing in Fast Ford for it the other day.

You'd be better off buying a blacktop 2.0 mondeo engine and build up the parts and then bolt it in when it's done, Search on here and google and there will be loads of threads about parts etc. There was a thing in Fast Ford for it the other day.

Can be done on a budget of about £1500 I think.

sounds good. i take it you are going to want to rebuild the engine before putting a turbo on. and btw know of anywhere to get engine rebuild kits? 1.8 130 spec and 2L blacktop?

Just look online, google. If you can't find any then you just need to look up what the main parts are (Pistons, rods, seals, valves, etc.) then get them all up individually and work out a cost from there.

I think if you go for the 1,8 as well, you don't need different pistons and rods so might be a better base

It's all about knowing what you want from the start...Mainly to save buying several turbos till you find ideal spec.

I'm taking this route simply because i'm starting out mapping and would like to get an idea of how each size of turbo behaves etc.

Ideally i'd rather have a larger turbo running a percentage of it's capabilities rather than a small turbo being pushed to it's limits. If you push a turbo to it's limits you run the risk of creating a lot more heat as once past it's peak efficiency the turbo will basically become a heat pump. You can lower temps with bigger intercoolers etc but it's still not ideal. Also considering a bigger turbo will give more power with the same boost pressure as a smaller one as it's physically moving more air at the same pressure (which is why just bolting on a bigger turbo with no ECU changes is probably a bad idea)

There is actually a minefield of information on turbos. I can just pass on information as I learn it myself as I've learned a lot from the Saab crowd who have been mucking about with turbos for years.

Also never overlook other supporting hardware. Even something as simple as an exhaust downpipe can have a huge influence on the car and what you can do. I recently did a remap on a car that has identical components to mine (apart from a home made looking very restrictive looking also, downpipe) and it's an identical map (safe stage 2 aero map) I've had no problems whatsoever....however he's melted a set of plugs...My theory so far is the downpipe is so restrictive that it's not allowing heat to escape fast enough. There may well be something else such as the FPR not supplying enough fuel to the injectors causing a lean mixture (dangerous...very) which could be something as simple as a split/leaky vacuum pipe from the manifold to the FPR.

Another reason I want to run a bigger turbo is because I want the lag...simply because of the Saab gearbox being a weak link (engines will take 500bhp before needing any internal work)...It's torque that kills the boxes and a late spooling turbo will shift the powerband up the rev range to effectivly limit the torque, I do have a boost limit set in first and second to have some form of safeguard to the box.

Another thing to note about converting N/A to turbo and it'll have been said a million times before...standalone management or a proper remap. I've heard of people just bolting up a turbo and hoping the ECU will adapt...not likely...what is more likely is ECU see's positive manifold pressure/high MAF reading and shit it's pants ....also not be able to supply enough fuel or correct ignition map and back to the lean mixture thing. That usualy equals remodeled pistons etc

Basically research is key when playing about with forced induction

Feel free to ask away and i'll help with what little i've learned so far

Putting a turbo setup on a naturally aspirated car can be a minefield at first but you will get there.

Turbo size is a big thing, using proper managament (and none of this piggyback crap) and finding the right tuner is the biggest key to it all, finding the right injectors (size isn't everything), uprating the engine cooling, deciding on turbo manifold/exhaust design based on goals and power delivery, proper crankcase ventilation, uprating clutches, oil pumps, fuel pumps, driveshafts, discovering your current engines limit and not just buying stronger parts and lowering compression because it's "the done thing".

And the biggest key to it all IMO - Speak to trusted experts, if you know of any. They've been doing it for years and they often know better because although forums are a great key for information, they are an even bigger key for mis-information.

_________________Rest in peace Ben "Jam" Elvin. Gone but never forgotten.

Putting a turbo setup on a naturally aspirated car can be a minefield at first but you will get there..

To be honest that's why I gave up and started with a turbo engine, Having spent less than £1000 including initial purchase price, and had a power gain from 170bhp to 256bhp (which only really cost £150 to do)

Compare this to the £3k bill I was looking at to do a low boost conversion on my astra which would have netted 200bhp at the most

Unfortunately I have met a few 'experts'...such as the one who advised a friend that his car was cutting out at junctions because he adjusted the dump valve so it stayed open at idle which wasn't allowing it to hold boost at idle. Yes the dump valve being open was the issue but because it was bleeding in air after the MAF and the ecu couldn't see this extra air so couldn't compensate, not because the turbo couldnt boost at idle .

Also one 'remap' I've seen from an expert company was basically: Fuel cut removed and manual boost controller fitted and over fuelled to hell...charged £500 for the privelige

Agreed, there are far too many people out their that "do a bit of mapping" and then decide they can make a business for themselves. And then there are people that do know their stuff, but then cut corners so that their business model earns as much money as possible per hour.

To find a tuner that will listen, discuss your requirements, go through the steps and any unforeseen issues with you and take their time during the process WHILST using the correct tools is a difficult one. I know of a tuner in Sheffield and one in Guildford that I would trust with my car.

_________________Rest in peace Ben "Jam" Elvin. Gone but never forgotten.

I need to get a wideband fitted and an egt gauge before I start properly pushing it, Only thing I've really done so far is slightly tweak a generic stage 2 map and turned down the knock sensitivity a small amount as the factory setting are stupidly sensitive, basicaly to stop the car negatively adapting everytime it gets the slightest knock signal from the DI pack.

There are 2 people i'd trust with the mapping and that's the guy who showed me the basics etc and another guy who's known as a guru when it comes to the T5 system...this is after being shown the maps from a few of the 'bigger well known' tuners, some scary stuff.

so i don't know anything aboy turbo's basicly so here are. turbo's like t2 ment for a cvh engine, can they be adapted to fit a zetec engine or would this kill the engine off? also what are actuators?

ta plenty more questions to come...

Easiest way i can describe this, as the turbo builds up boost pressure, lets say in this instance we want a boost pressure of of 15psi, when it gets to that pressure the actuator pushes the wastegate within the turbo open, to prevent it overboosting.

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