Coté Cour, Beijing: hotel review

For a sense of what China might have been like a century ago, head to the Coté
Cour hotel in Beijing.

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The 14 rooms are on the small side but very pretty, with wooden beds, silk printed lampshades and beautifully patterned porcelain basins in the bathrooms

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These one-storey courtyard houses are particularly charming

By Lucinda Baring

2:31PM BST 02 Aug 2010

Location

Close to the Forbidden City in Dongcheng in a hutong, the maze-like, narrow residential alleyways of old Beijing. Though many of these have been demolished, this is where you get a sense of what China would have been like a century ago; and in a city where high rise buildings are dominant, these one-storey courtyard houses are particularly charming.

This is a very discreet hotel that would go unnoticed if you weren't looking for it. Rooms are arranged around a central courtyard and pond, filled with goldfish (a symbol of good fortune) and surrounded by hanging red lanterns, little trees, and tables and chairs under parasols. There is also a roof terrace with wicker loungers.

Rooms

The 14 rooms are on the small side but very pretty, with wooden beds, silk printed lampshades and beautifully patterned porcelain basins in the bathrooms. The flat-screen televisions, Wi-Fi and air conditioning are a necessary nod to the 21st century, but details such as the working, old-fashioned dial telephone ensure the sense of tradition and charm remain the more prevalent characteristics.

Food

There isn't a restaurant; breakfast is served in the lounge, where you'll find books and guidebooks left behind by other guests. The hotel will also cook simple Chinese food but most people eat out.

We like

Feeling part of hutong life, where you walk out of the front door and there are old ladies sitting outside their courtyards and children playing in the street; the peace and quiet.

Not so keen

Though lovely, this hotel has a slight backpacker feel to it and the towels are absolutely tiny.

The best time to visit Beijing is in spring or autumn. A five-day trip with Audley Travel (01993 838000; www.audleytravel.com) costs from £1,900 per person staying at The Opposite House, from £1,550 per person staying at the Coté Cour and from £1,800 staying at the Duge, based on two people sharing, and including economy flights with British Airways and private guided transfers and excursions.

Get away

The jet lag and frenzied pace of Beijing can be overwhelming, so you might acclimatise by treating yourself to a night or two at the Aman at Summer Palace (00 800 2255 2626; www.amanresorts.com; doubles from £370), just outside the city centre. Originally built to accommodate guests awaiting an audience with the empress, this peaceful enclave echoes the palace itself. The 51 rooms, restaurants and library are spread among different courtyards and pavilions, connected by corridors with pretty, painted ceilings reminiscent of the palace’s renowned Long Corridor. The service is exceptional (you are greeted off the plane, whisked through security and into a waiting 4 x 4 with cold towels) and there is a glorious indoor pool and spa for rest and recuperation. A hidden door takes you into the grounds of the Summer Palace – allowing you to step from the serenity of your own secret garden straight into (and back from) the hustle and bustle of one of Beijing’s most popular tourist attractions.