I CHECKED WITH MY LOCAL FORD DEALER AND WAS TOLD BOLTS WERE AVAILABLE ARE YOU READY FOR THIS ONE BOLT WAS 35.00 DOLLARS AND THE REST WERE APPROXIMATELY 18.00 TO 24.00 DOLLARS I AM NOT KIDDING I CHECKED WITH MY LOCAL FORD DEALER AND WAS TOLD BOLTS WERE AVAILABLE ARE YOU READY FOR THIS ONE BOLT WAS 35.00 DOLLARS AND THE REST WERE APPROXIMATELY 18.00 TO 24.00 DOLLARS I AM NOT KIDDING

The best place to go would most likely be your local for dealership's parts and service dept. Granted, most auto parts stores tend to stock these bolts, but from time to time, I've found that they're not an exace match for the original factory equipment. You can usually rest assured that when you go to the dealership, you'll probably be getting bolts that came out of the same batch that was used to build these vehicles at the factor, ending the worry of wrong-sized bolts and cheap steel. Not only that, we're talking about a few bolts, so you shouldn't have to worry about it costing very much. Hope this proves to be useful and have a great night!

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There are a lot of steps, and you need to take your time. You will need access to a lift or jack stand, and make sure you keep the work area clean and organised, taking photos of the timing system will make your life easier when it comes to re-timing the engine.

Camshaft Timing Chain, Sprocket, and Tensioner ReplacementRemoval ProcedureCaution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.Notice: The timing chain on the LD9 (VIN T) Twin Cam Engine is not to be replaced with the timing chain from any other model year. The timing sprockets are different on the Twin Cam engine and the shape of the links matches the sprockets. Engine damage may result if the wrong timing chain is used. The timing chain and the crankshaft sprocket must be marked so that they are reinstalled in the same side facing out at the time of reassembly.

Ensure that all of the slack in the timing chain is above the tensioner assembly.

Remove the timing chain tensioner bolts and the tensioner.

Remove the tensioner shoe. Use a small locking ring plier in order to engage the hole in the locking tab and remove the shoe from the stud.

Notice: Do not attempt to pry the sprocket off the camshaft or damage to the sprocket or chain housing could occur.Important: Mark the timing chain and the crankshaft sprocket prior to removal. If the chain or the crankshaft sprocket is installed with the wear pattern in the opposite direction, noise and increased wear may occur.

Use Adhesive/Sealant Compound GM?P/N?12345493 or equivalent on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Install the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts with the marked surface showing.Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Install the retaining bolts and washers to the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 70?Y (52?lb?ft) while holding the sprockets with the J 39579.

Install the J 36800 through the holes in the camshaft sprockets into the holes in the timing chain housing. This will position the camshaft for correct timing.

If the camshafts are out of position (you must rotate the camshaft more than 1/8?turn in order to install the alignment dowel pins), use the following procedure:

Rotate the crankshaft 90?degrees clockwise off of the TDC in order to give the valves adequate clearance to open.

Once the camshafts are in position and the dowels installed, rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise back to the top dead center.

Notice: Do not rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC. Valve or piston damage could occur.Important: The side of the timing chain that was marked during removal must be showing when the chain is installed.

Install the timing chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, around the coolant pump, and around the crankshaft sprocket.

Remove the alignment dowel pin from the intake camshaft.

Using the J 39579, rotate the intake camshaft sprocket counterclockwise enough in order to slide the timing chain over the intake camshaft sprocket.

Release the J 39579. The length of the chain between the 2?camshaft sprockets will tighten.

If properly timed the intake camshaft alignment dowel pin should slide in easily. If the dowel pin does not fully index, the camshafts are not timed correctly and the procedure must be repeated.

The timing marks on the crankshaft and on the cylinder block should be aligned when the slack is removed from the chain linking the intake camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. If the marks are not aligned, move the chain one tooth forward or rearward, remove the slack and re-examine the marks.

Important: Use the following steps in order to reset the timing chain tensioner assembly to the zero position.

Reset the timing chain tensioner assembly.

Insert the tensioner plunger assembly into the tensioner housing.

With the tensioner plunger fully extended, turn the complete assembly upside down on a bench or other flat surface.

With the plunger face against the workbench, press firmly on the bottom of the tensioner housing.

Compress the plunger until the plunger is seated flush in the tensioner.

Check the plunger to make sure the plunger is out of the cylinder at the correct dimension. The correct dimension for the plunger to extend out of the cylinder is 1.7?mm (0.07?in) maximum.

Loosely install the tensioner assembly and bolts to the timing chain housing.

Install the timing chain tensioner shoe on the stud.

Apply hand pressure to the timing chain tensioner shoe until the locking tab seats in the groove in the stud.

Tighten the timing chain tensioner bolts. Do Not overtighten.Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 10?Y (89?lb?in).

Important: If the timing chain tensioner is not released from the installation position, engine damage will occur when the engine is started.

Release the timing chain tensioner plunger.

Using a flat blade screwdriver, cotter pin remover, or similar tool, press firmly against the face of the timing chain tensioner plunger.

Important: If the timing chain tensioner cannot be depressed, the plunger is not properly reset and the procedure for resetting the timing chain tensioner should be repeated.

Depress the timing chain tensioner plunger until the plunger is bottomed out in the bore of the timing chain tensioner.

Release the tensioner plunger. the plunger should press firmly against the back of the timing chain tensioner shoe.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2?full rotations. Align the crankshaft keyway with the mark on the cylinder block, and reinstall the alignment dowel pins. The pins should slide in easily if the engine is timed correctly.

TO REPLACE WATER PUMP.REMOVE THE RADIATOR SHROUD HALVES.REMOVE FAN CLUTCH AND FAN.YOU NEED FAN CLUTCH WRENCH AND A FAN CLUTCH PULLEY HOLDER.YOU CAN RENT TOOLS AT AUTO ZONE OR BUY THEM AT A AUTO PARTS STORE.THE FAN CLUTCH BOLTS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD. REMOVE THEM BY TURNING CLOCKWISE.BEFORE INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP COAT BOTH SIDES OF WATER PUMP GASKET WITH GASKET SEALER.TORQUE WATER PUMP BOLTS 18 FT LBS.

Remove the water pump and harmonic balancer (use a balancer Puller). Remove the remaining bolts from the timing cover and the front four bolts from the oil pan. Remove the timing cover. Clean the old gasket from the block and cover . Reassemble. You may want to replace the pump as a maintainance item while it is removed.

Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.

18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

Remove the timing chain/belt.

Installation NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.

CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt. NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.

Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.

Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.

Unfortunately, I've had this exact same issue with my F-150 5.0L... The pump bolts go through the timing chain cover and into the block. However, if you're lucky, once you finally do get the timing cover off(which will have to be removed at this point), you might have enough bolt hanging out of the block to get a grip on and possibly back the rest of the way out. There is a penetrating spray on the market called PB Blaster that is the very best at freeing up seized bolts. Spray it down really good and give it a day or so to penetrate. Not too sure of what size of easy-out you'd need, but I ended up having to drill mine out and putting in helo-coils. It's a real pain, but aside from junking the block, it's about the only option available. One more thing...if you do get all of your bolts out, before trying to put them back in, make sure to take an air compressor and blow out all of the bolt holes as they tend to get a lot of corrosion inside that will, 99% of the time, cause even more snapped bolts when trying to reinstall your new water pump, as this is what happened to me. Hope this helps and from one guy who's had to deal with this headache to another getting ready to...good luck, and no matter what you might begin to think, a gallon of gas and a match are not a better way of dealing with it, though it will sound tempting. Try to have a nice day!