300 WSM Head Space?

New to reloading... I am reloading once fired 300 WSM cases.
I full resized a dozen or so a few weeks ago and found that when chambered the bolt closed hard. I posted my problem here and had several responses suggesting that my die was not set up correctly or possibly needing to have the head space of my rifle measured. As it turned, out after visiting with a local gunsmith, I did not have my die adjusted correctly. It needed to be cranked down into the press more. As suggested by the gunsmith, he instructed me to set up the die per manufactures instructions, resize a case then chamber the round, if the bolt would still not close, readjust the die (small increments at a time) and resize... doing this until the case would chamber without resistance while closing the bolt.
So I have the die set now to resize a case that will physically work.
Is this good enough or do I need to be concerned with the "head" to "shoulder" dimension? I would assume that if the case was resized just to the point to where the bolt closes, I would not have under sized it to the point to where there is too much head space?
I have calipers, so I can measure the overall case length, but I do not have any accurate way to measure the distance from the head to the shoulder.
I see Hornaday makes a device that attaches to a caliper that will measure that dimension.
Am I splitting hairs here or?

Rickey
I am by no means a expert not even close
But had the same problem with my 300WSM
I ended up completely lowering the hadle on the press and screwing the die down untill it touched the 1/4 turn more
everyhting has been fine since I have 4 or 5 loadings on my brass and no problems
I would say do like you are but keep and eye on your brass.
some guys have problems from over working the brass.
Retiredcpo

The 300 wsm headspaces off the shoulder so for best accuracy you want it touching firm but not hard to close the bolt. Sounds like you have it just about right now. I fireform mine then neck size only so I get that perfect headspace fit off the shoulder.

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Predictions are difficult, especially when they involve the future

Long Time Ranger,
When you neck resize, are you using a special die that only resizes the neck, or can this be done with a full length die as well?
From the reading I have done, I would like to neck size my stuff but have read that rounds reloaded for hunting, should be full resized. I assume it is to assure that the ammo will feed into the chamber smoothly.

Most manuals recomend you full length size for the reason you stated. I have a redding 300 wsm FL die. I use it to neck size only and when they get to tight after a few firings I set it to push the shoulder back a little and away I go again. This can be done with most any FL die. Directions should come with the die for neck sizing. I have not had the problem you and retiredcpo had. I also use the hornady generic neck sizers for each caliber. I have all kinds of wildcat cartridges and instead of getting a die for each one I just neck size with the hornady die. Saves a lot of money. I neck size only with all my rifles hunting or targets.

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Predictions are difficult, especially when they involve the future

"To neck size I use the FL sizing die and come down the neck half way."

Forgive my inexperience here, but, I am trying to imagine how to set the die up to only come down the neck "half way"... per RCBS instructions, setting the die up to FL resize, it is run down to contact shell holder + 1/4 +/- turn... so, to neck size, the die would not even contact the shell holder? And, the primer punch would still knock out the spent primer?
I guess there is an adjustment on the primer punch. They say to adjust it to extend below the bottom of the die 3/16" (I think), so would this dimension have to be increased to punch the primer while the case is only 1/2 of the way into the die?
Am I on the right track?