How to Get Perfect Skin

With clear, smooth, glowing skin as the goal, we went to the pros for insider tips on every type. Here's what we learned about complexion imperfections — and how to fix the flaws!

GREAT SKIN RULES

Everybody's basics:
1. Keep it simple. Too many products can irritate and too many steps may tempt you to skip.
2. Keep it up. If you want great skin, care for it each day. Sporadic care won't do it.
3. Keep it gentle. Scrubbing and overdrying leaves skin rough and red. Like, don't fight with your face.OILY SKIN

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HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: Looks slick and shiny within an hour after cleansing. Oil seeps right through makeup.

Cleanse: Use gel, liquid cleanser or an oily-skin cleansing bar no more than two or three times per day — morning, night and after school or sports. Overwashing won't stop oil flow, but it can irritate skin, says Diane Berson, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at New York University School of Medicine.

Troubleshoot: Apply a 5 percent benzoyl peroxide cream or a salicylic acid formula to breakout-prone places to prevent blemishes. Are zits more than an occasional occurrence? Skip to "Blemish-Prone" for more clear-up info. A clay mask once or twice a week helps dry up oil and remove dead surface cells. Creamy cleansing grains get a twice-a-week OK.

HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: Suffers from oil overload, clogged pores and breakouts. Even careful cleansing won't keep it clear.

Cleanse: Wash with gel or liquid cleanser or an oily-skin cleansing bar no more than three times per day. Stripping skin won't clear it-hardened oil trapped in pores, not surface grease, causes breakouts. If skin's ultra-oily, try a medicated soap or cleanser formulated with triclosan, salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, suggests Berson.

Tone: You can follow gel, liquid or bar cleansing with astringent and/or use toner to clean up during the day. However, toners plus drying cleansers or acne medicines may add up to excessive dryness.

Moisturize: Dot and blend a light, oil-free lotion on driest areas only. Stuck on an overdrying/moisturizing seesaw? Choose a milder cleanser, like a facial bar instead of medicated cleanser, and try a less-drying medication, such as cream-based instead of gel.

Troubleshoot: Today's acne medications not only clear up current breakouts but if used twice a day, everyday, unclog pores to help prevent future blemishes. Benzoyl peroxide dries skin (creams are less drying than gels) so start with a 5 percent concentration, then go to 10 percent if skin needs and tolerates it. (Note: Nix very drying cleansers and astringents with this medication or skin can get parched and flaky.) Salicylic acid (in creams, gels, astringents or masks) dries less than benzoyl peroxide so it can be used with more-drying cleansers. Grains can irritate blemishes so avoid them if skin's broken out. Clay masks sop up oil and remove dead surface cells-but they're no substitute for regular medication.

Makeup: Tinted benzoyl-peroxide products deliver light coverage. For more camouflage, opt for an oil-free, non-clogging foundation, like No Shine Oil-Control from Bonne Belle.

Extra Advice: At-home treatment not working? See a dermatologist. A few appointments to set up a regimen plus check-ins every three to six months may get you in the clear!

DRY SKIN

HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: Feels tight and dry after cleansing. Cold weather and/or dry air makes it rough and flaky.

Cleanse: A moisturizing cleanser or cleansing bar should leave skin feeling clean, fresh and smooth without dryness, according to Howard Murad, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA School of Medicine. Use a soothing formula (one to try: Murad Moisture Rich Skin Cleanser) twice a day.

Moisturize: Opt for a creamy formula rather than one labeled "oil-free." Extra assistance-alpha-hydroxy acids help smooth and exfoliate while ingredients such as vitamin E, aloe and panthenol soothe. (Check labels.) Apply while skin's still damp after cleansing to seal in moisture, says Murad. But dot and blend; don't glop it on. Skin should feel fresh and moist, not greasy!

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Troubleshoot: Use a salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide cream to spot-treat any blemishes. A moisturizing mask once a week exfoliates and smoothes. All but the creamiest grains over-dry.

Extra Advice: If skin's superdry, you may prefer to tissue off cleanser rather than rinse. Soothing tissue choice-ultra-soft Kleenex Cold Care with Lotion.

NORMAL SKIN

HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: Stays non-oily for hours after cleansing, has small pores, a smooth texture and few breakouts.

Cleanse: Your regimen's a rinse-off cleansing lotion or a non-drying cleansing bar twice a day, says Murad. You can cleanse again after gym or sports.

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Tone: Apply a non-alcohol toner in the T-zone only in cold weather, all over when the weather's warm.

Moisturize: Choose an oil-free, non-clogging lotion. Dot on and blend over cheeks and around eyes after every cleansing.

Troubleshoot: Treat occasional blemishes with a cream- or gel-based benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid product. If skin breaks out more frequently, apply a formula like Neutrogena Multi-Vitamin Acne Treatment every day on blemish-prone places. Exfoliate twice a week with a cream-based grainy cleanser or non-drying mask.

Makeup: A lightweight, oil-free liquid is your choice.

Extra Advice: Your type's so carefree you can get lazy. Follow your regimen every day to keep skin as good as it can be!

SENSITIVE SKIN

HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: Can react to weather, cleansing and whatever you put on it with stinging, itchiness and redness.

Cleanse: Opt for a lotion cleanser, advises Bruce E. Katz, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia University College of Physicians & Surgeons. Make it "fragrance–free" (fragrance is the number–one skin irritant) and noncomedogenic. Especially gentle: Neutrogena Non–Drying Cleanser. And take it easy! Scrubbing is skin harassment! (See "Kindly Cleansing" for clean–up how–tos.)

Tone: Toners may be more than your type can take, cautions Katz. Try a sensitive–skin formula in the T–zone only–but stop if skin gets rough or red. Moisturize: Look for an oil–free, fragrance–free lotion made for sensitive skin.

Troubleshoot: Get the gentlest form of any treatment: grains in an unscented cream base; fragrance–free, non–drying mask; creamy benzoyl peroxide; or a salicylic acid formula. Katz suggests you pre–test any new product. Dot a dab just in front of your ear, then wait 24 hours to see what happens. Cool it on any product that doesn't agree with skin—your skin won't "get over it." Avoid using fragrance near your face, not just perfumes and lotions, but hair products like scented shampoo, conditioner and stylers.

HOW TO IDENTIFY IT: It's got a split personality—dry and maybe flaky at the edges and oily down the middle.

Cleanse: Use a mild liquid cleanser for your entire face two to three times a day, says Katz, to prep oily parts for toning without stripping dry areas.

Tone: Follow cleansing with salicylic acid astringent on the T–zone only. Take along astringent pads for during–the–day de–greasing, again on T–zone only. Use no more than twice daily or skin can flake!

Moisturize: Your formula should be oil–free and non–clogging. Smooth only on dry areas after cleansing.

Troubleshoot: You can use creamy grains or a clay mask twice a week to exfoliate the T–zone. Troubled by breakouts in oily regions? Follow "Blemish–Prone" advice.

Makeup: An oil–free, shine–blotting formula suits your T–zone and will work for dry areas too, if you moisturize first.

Extra Advice: OK, a complicated balancing act can seem like a bummer. But stay with it and you'll see real results.

KINDLY CLEANSING

Scrub NOT! It dries skin, gets blemishes red and angry, raises your scarring risk and can cause more breakouts. Apply soap or cleanser and wash with gentle, circular motions for 30–60 seconds max. Avoid overwashing. Two or three times per day's the limit! Leave the hot zone. Hot water strips skin and overdries it. Test: Water shouldn't burn, feel hot or turn skin pink. If you steam skin before a mask, use warm water for 10 minutes only. Standard clean–up equipment–fingertips, fluffy washcloths, or for more sensitive skin, a soft cotton handkerchief. Make sure they're clean before you use them. Turn on the rinse cycle. Left–over cleanser equals left–over dirt and oil. Rinse with tepid water till skin feels clean and smooth and no longer slippery or soapy. Pat skin dry. Rubbing can rub skin the wrong way. Handling instructions. Gently stroke on toner, moisturizer, medication and makeup. This saves skin and delivers the best coverage. Always wear sunscreen, even in winter, because skin–damaging UV rays are out there all year 'round. Try an oil–free "faces–only" sunblock or look for sunscreen in moisturizers and makeups.