Directions
Cut spinach into 1-inch-wide ribbons, discarding any tough stems. Swish the greens in a large basin of cold water, then lift them out to a colander. Repeat the process 2 more times, with fresh water each time. It is tempting, but unwise, to stop after two washings. After the third washing, you shouldn't see any sand or grit in the water.

Trim the leeks and peel off the tough outer layer. Cut the leeks into small dice. Fill a bowl with warm tap water and add the leeks. Agitate the leeks with your hand. Let the dirt and sand settle in the bowl, then scoop the leeks from the water. Repeat the process 2 more times.

Melt the butter in a deep, heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper, and saute, stirring occasionally, until they are tender but still green, about 5 minutes.

Turn up the heat and scrape a little nutmeg over the leeks. Now add the drained spinach in layers, sprinkling each layer with a little salt.

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Cover tightly, and let the spinach steam rapidly over the leeks, removing the lid to stir once or twice. (The water clinging to the spinach will provide enough moisture for steaming.) When the spinach is just barely wilted, 2 minutes or less, turn out the contents of the pot onto a platter and let cool. Be sure to save any cooking juices that have accumulated.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. When the spinach-leek mixture is cool, taste for seasoning and adjust — it should be highly seasoned. In a blender or food processor, puree the vegetables with the milk and eggs in batches, adding a little more salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Add any remaining cooking juices to one of the batches and whiz again.

Pour the soupy green batter into a buttered baking dish or a 9- or 10-inch deep-dish pie pan. Grate a scant 2 tablespoons Parmigiano over the top and bake uncovered for 45 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature. Cut into wedges and serve.

Note:We've experimented using frozen spinach with excellent results. Use two boxes, thawed. Squeeze out as much extra water as you can. Chop coarsely, then stir into the leeks. You will not have to steam the spinach.

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