Greg and I had been arguing for the better part of an hour when dessert arrived. "You have no idea what you're talking about," he spat out. Then he swallowed a chunk of the sugar art adorning the bowl of olive oil gelato.

The sugar was just shy of burnt, a rich caramel crunch hardened into a shape that could hang in one of the many galleries that fill Boca's Mizner Park. It towered out of a scoop of a gelato that was wonderfully savory and sweet with just a hint of olive flavor. On the side were four small beignets that provided texture and something to sop up the melting ice cream.

Then I took a taste. "Wow" was all I could manage.

Just like that, one dessert shut us the hell up. It also showed just how capable the kitchen at Tanzy can be. There were some misses and some just fine dishes during our meal there, but that single dessert was enough to define this place as a special-occasion-priced restaurant that will likely be on many people's lists of the best new kitchens around.

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