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Q & A (coutiuued) drawer fronts are made of birch plywood. Should I raise the grain before finishing? -Paul Lasicki, Warwick, Like life, finishing is a series of compromises. In your case, I think a solvent-based polyurethane varnish would be appropriate. But don't just open the can and slap on the stuff. Most oilbased varnishes are too thick to flow and level well straight from the can. I always thin my varnish to about the consistency of whole milk before applying it to my project. (For the technically inclined, the actual flow rate is 13 seconds with a Zahn #3 viscosity cup, an inexpensive, easy-to-use accessory available at better paint supply houses.) The thinned varnish takes more coats to build a substantial film, but I've found it's easier to brush on a few extra coats than to sand off a thick one that has bumps, ridges and bubbles. The extended drying time of oil-based varnishes is both a blessing and a problem. Long drying times allow the finish to level evenly, but they tend to pick up dust in the process. The drying time can be shortened by adding Japan drier, or better yet, a small amount of cobalt drier to the thinned varnish. Be careful, though; too much cobalt drier can cause brittle finish films and even slow down the drying process. Follow package instructions, and then test your concoction on scrapwood to be sure. I usually add about 10 drops of artist's cobalt drier (available in art supply stores) to 1 qt. of thinned varnish. This mixture usually dries to dle touch in about one hour. Brush selection plays an important role in how the final finish FWW looks. Cheap brushes are hard to use and produce a lousy-looking finish. Expect to pay about $15 for a high-quality natural- Chris Minick replies: I'm asked that question all the time. The truth is there is no best finish, and easy depends on your finishing abilities (see "Choosing a Finish," N.Y. #104, pp. 85-89). bristle brush, an investment well worth the money. With proper care, a good brush will last a lifetime and improve with age. Unlike waterborne finishes, you need not worry about raising the grain before applying a solvent-based finish, but the first coat should be sanded to remove the stiffened wood fuzz before applying subsequent coats. A properly applied polyurethane varnish finish will not look plastic-coated and will give your cabinets more than enough protection. By the way, the companion video to The Wood ishing Book by Michael Dresdner, The Wood finfinishing Video (available from The Taunton Press), is the best primer on brush applying a solvent-based varnish that I have seen. [Chris Minick is a product development chemist and amateur woodworker in Stillwater, Minn.] Clea How do I clean the grooves of a metal file (especially a finetoothed file) of materials such as aluminum and that ubiquitous hard-packed mixture of dirt and fine metal particles? I've tried wire brushes, chemicals and hand cleaning each groove. None of these methods is satisfactory. -Sands Figures, Livermore, Calif. nin Charley Robinson replies: The usual technique for cleaning a file is to use a file card. A file card is like a wire brush, but the brisdes are short, about 1/4 in. to % in. long. File cards are generally available at most hardware stores, and d1ey will do a reasonable job of cleaning your file as long as you haven't let it get overly clogged. Files that are clogged with wood and/or glue dust can be cleaned more easily if you soak them in hot water before going at them with the file card. 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