How to Trim Laminate Floor Around a Fireplace

by William Machin

Select a hardwood or painted molding based on your design preference.

You have options for trimming a laminate floor where it meets a flush or raised hearth at a fireplace. One approach is undercutting the edges of the hearth to receive the flooring. Do-it-yourself enthusiasts who have experience with woodworking tools can scribe the back of wood molding to fit the contours at the edges of a hearth. But the average do-it-yourself homeowner can trim laminate flooring at a fireplace using a small molding that all but disappears after it’s installed. Select a prefinished shoe molding or quarter round to trim the flooring at a fireplace.

1

Measure the width across the front edge of the hearth at floor level and add 2 inches to allow enough for precise miter cuts after the three-piece trim assembly is correctly fitted. Select a length of 1/2-by-1/2-inch prefinished shoe molding or quarter round for the front edge and cut it to length with a miter saw or miter box and handsaw.

2

Position the front piece at the intersection where the flooring meets the face of the hearth. Move it either way, as necessary, so both ends overhang the corners of the hearth 1 inch at each end.

3

Measure the distance at the side of the hearth from the face of the fireplace or wall to the front edge and add 1 inch. Measure and cut two pieces of molding to this length.

4

Place one of the shorter side pieces against one side of the hearth and butt the inner end at the fireplace or wall. Allow the outer end to rest atop the 1-inch overhang of the front piece at the corner. Repeat this and position the remaining side piece at the opposite edge of the hearth.

5

Look straight down over the outer edges of the hearth. Reposition the moldings for the best fit and uniform appearance at the face and sides of the hearth.

6

Mark the points where the outer edges of each side piece and the front piece intersect on each piece to determine where the miter cuts are made.

7

Refer to the marks and cut 45-degree miter cuts on the end of each side piece and both ends of the front piece to make the three-sided assembly that resembles three sides of a picture frame.

8

Install a tube of clear silicone adhesive in a caulking gun. Cut the tip of the tube to make a 1/8-inch opening with a utility knife.

9

Apply a bead of adhesive along the lower edge of the front piece of molding. Place the piece at the front edge of the heart and align the miter cuts at each end with the corresponding corners of the hearth.

10

Apply a bead of adhesive along the lower edge of each side piece of molding. Set the pieces in place at the sides of the hearth. Align the miter cuts at all corners while the adhesive is still pliable. Allow the adhesive to dry overnight.

Things You Will Need

Measuring tape

1/2-by-1/2-inch prefinished shoe molding or quarter round

Carpenter’s pencil

Miter saw or miter box and finish handsaw

Clear silicone adhesive

Caulking gun

Utility knife

Tip

For a pronounced trim, install baseboard with shoe molding. Use adhesive to attach the baseboard at the raised hearth or pad and flooring and nail the shoe to the floor with 4d finish nails every 16 inches from end to end. Set the nails with a nail set and hammer and fill the sets with colored wood filler or painter's caulking.

About the Author

William Machin began work in construction at the age of 15, while still in high school. In 35 years, he's gained expertise in all phases of residential construction, retrofit and remodeling. His hobbies include horses, motorcycles, road racing and sport fishing. He studied architecture at Taft Junior College.

Photo Credits

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