Category: Crochet Patterns

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I love the look of a knitted headband- but I still haven’t mastered the art of knitting! I created this interlocking knit look headband pattern using simple crochet stitches and I love it! It can sometimes be difficult to create intricate crochet patterns like those available in knitting, but with a little creativity you can make it look just as fabulous!

As my crochet skills expanded and I discovered this little trick that creates a knitted appearance with crochet stitches, I was very excited. It involves using the “third loop” of the crochet stitch and is a very simple stitch once you figure out which is the correct loop. The tutorial video at the bottom of the post below shows you where the third loop is on your project.

I loved that I could create a multi-colored woven appearance with this pattern, so I made a “Seahawks” themed headband. We must support our Seahawks in this house!

This pattern is just as easily converted into a single color headband, and can be made a bit smaller if that is your preference. My daughter’s headband is only 4 rows each side because she’s much tinier than me!

I think this is a very easy pattern to make, it looks trickier than it really is to make. The video below will show you step by step how to get this look easily!

You will find the pattern below, or you can purchase the convenient ad-free printable PDF in my Etsy shop, HERE.

Part A:Row 1: FHDC 65 stitches. Join to first stitch with sl st. (65)Note: the number of stitches can be increased or decreased to adjust size.Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in 3rd loop around. Join to first stitch with sl st. (65)Row 3: Repeat row 2. (65)Row 4-6: Join next color. Repeat row 2 three times. Finish off, leaving a long tail for joining.

Part B:

Repeat part A, but when you join row 1, loop it through the center of part A, interlocking the rings of part A and B.

Joining A and B:

Align the seams of A and B. Using the long tail, stitch together using mattress stitch in the 3rd loop of each side about ⅓ of the way around. Repeat on opposite side of seam using the other long tail, about ⅓ of the way around. This leaves the front twist unstitched, allowing for flexibility. Finish off and weave in ends.

Note: if you do not wish to make this a multi-colored pattern, you may skip the “join next color) part. In this case, you may make each side only 5 rows wide instead of 6 to make a narrower headband if you wish.

Writing this pattern I realized that it was a bit challenging to visualize what I was doing, so I created a video tutorial. I kind of lied at the end of the video, I promised I would show you the finished product, but then I guess I forgot to add that part *insert embarrased emoji face* but here it is. At least I have lots of photos of the finished product! I hope the video helps you!

Thank you for visiting my blog! You can help support CDM Handmade and ensure more great patterns in the future by sharing this post, making a purchase with my affiliate links (at no additional cost to you) or purchasing the convenient ad-free printable PDF of this pattern from my Etsy Store HERE. Happy hooking!

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

Have you heard of “Planned Pooling”? I had never of such a thing before until this past fall. Planned pooling is working with variegated yarn that has a repetitive predictable color sequence to create a specific pattern when crocheted or knitted. Sounds complicated doesn’t it? Well don’t be intimidated, it really isn’t hard! The stitches used are deceptively simple, the only tricky part is finding the “magic number”! I’ll get to that in a minute when I show you how to make a Rainbow Scarf. Let me show you a few things first!

Here is an example of what I mean by variegated yarn:

Isn’t it beautiful? This Lion Brand Color Waves in the Rainbow colorway is the yarn I used for this project I’m about to show you. I just love the bright and vibrant colors of it! Let me just gush about this yarn for a few minutes – I am really in love with it! I am a pretty die hard cotton yarn fan, and usually avoid wool (too scratchy!) at all costs, but this yarn really won me over! It’s an acrylic/wool blend (80/20%) and it is so soft that I actually had no idea at first that it contained wool! I can’t stand most wool touching my skin, but I wear this scarf all the time and it feels amazing.

Now it’s hard to imagine, but when you follow the pattern, this bundle of bright softness will turn into this gorgeous argyle-style scarf:

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

So you may have heard about a “March for Science” on Washington. This is a nationally organized protest scheduled for April 22, 2017 all around the country, but primarily in Washington, D.C. at the National Mall. Scientists nationwide are planning to make their voices heard on that day, which also happens to be Earth Day, to protest the current administration’s policies on the environment and scientific evidence. Whatever your politics may be, I think it is a wonderful thing that we can peacefully protest and make our passions known in this country without fear of reprisal. What in the world does this have to do with crochet, you might ask? Well, you may remember the recent Women’s March and its universally recognized symbol of the crocheted “Pink Pussy Hat”? Well we cannot leave the scientists out – the symbol being talked about for this march is the crochet Brain Beanie!

Pattern:Using pink yarn and H hook.Hat body:Row 1 – Magic ring, ch 2, 9 HDC in magic ring, pull tight, join to first HDC, ch 1. (9)Row 2 – 2 HDC in first stitch, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (18)Row 3 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (27)Row 4 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 2 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (36)Row 5 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 3 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (45)Row 6 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 4 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (54)Row 7 – HDC around, join to first HDC, ch 2. (54)Row 8 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 8 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (60)Row 9 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 9 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (66)Row 10 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 10 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (72)Row 11 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 11 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (78)Row 12 – 2 HDC in first stitch, HDC in next 12 stitches, repeat around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (84)Row 13-19 – HDC around, join to first HDC, ch 1. (84)Row 20- 22 – FPHDC in first stitch, BPHDC in next, repeat around, joint to first FPHDC, ch 1. (84)Row 23 – FPHDC in first stitch, BPHDC in next, repeat around, joint to first FPHDC, finish off. (84)Weave in ends.“Brain” tubing: (make 2)Chain 2.Row 1: 5 DC into 2nd ch from hook, join to first DC (5)Row 2: ch 2, DC into each DC around, join to first DC (5)Row 3 and up: repeat row 2 until you reach desired length. Finish off, leaving a VERY long tail for stitching to the beanie. Stitch the hole closed by gathering each loop of the 5 DC together and pulling tight.*I did not measure the final length or number of rows for my tubing, because it is based on your preference for how you want to wrap the tubes on the side of the hat and how tight you want to make it. My tubes were more than twice as long as the length of my arm, and I still ended up needing to make another smaller piece to fill in a hole that was bothering me!Attaching the tubing:I would recommend you loosely run a line of dark contrasting yarn down the very center of your beanie to divide your “brain” in half and use as a stitching guide. It can be very easy to get off center when you are dealing with very long pieces! You’ll notice that mine is a bit off center from not following my own advice!Pick a spot near the back of your hat, just above the brim and attach the yarn tubing. I ran the stitching INSIDE the tubing and poked it out where I wanted to attach it to make a small stitch, then ran it back inside the tubing to hide it. Randomly loop back and forth in rows and loops like the sulci on a human brain. One long tube should be attached only on the right side, and the other long tube should be attached only on the left side. The human brain is divided into halves, and they do not visibly cross, that is why there are two separate tubes! Once the entire tube is stitched down, weave the end into the inside of the beanie a few times to ensure it stays in place.

Thank you for visiting my blog, and I hope you love making your very own crochet brain beanie! You can help support CDM Handmade and ensure more great patterns in the future by sharing this post, making a purchase with my affiliate links (at no additional cost to you) or purchasing the convenient ad-free printable PDF of this pattern from my Etsy Store HERE. Happy hooking!

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

Have you made yourself a messy bun hat yet? They have become all the rage in the crochet world, and I am no different! The latest incarnation of these hats is with an adorable bow attached. I have been tagged in multiple photos of these adorable hats and have had many requests to make them! I wanted to create a hat that was cute, but with a little winter elegance too. I am currently obsessed with cabling, so I decided that a Cabled Messy Bun Bow Hat was just what we needed!

I think it’s super cute, don’t you? My daughter is a competitive cheerleader so i think this hat is perfect for all our cheer families!

We just got home from a cheer competition, so my daughter is modeling in full cheer makeup – I promise she doesn’t normally wear sparkly false eyelashes around the house on a Sunday!

You will find the pattern below, or you can purchase the convenient ad-free printable PDF in my Etsy shop, HERE.

Hat band: (worked in rows) – Use H hook
Chain 9
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row2: sc in first st (both loops), sc in back loop only of next 6 st, sc in last st (both loops), ch 1, turn (8)
Row 3 to 80: repeat row 2.(8)
Stitch band together to form a circle using one sc in each st across, turn seam to the inside 8 stitches. Ch 2, turn band sideways to start body of the hat.

Hat body: (worked in the round) – Use I hook
Row 1: dc in first st and each stitch of the side of the hat band, sl st to first dc (80)
Row 2: ch 2, *dcfp around each of first 2 dc, hdc in next dc, skip 2 dc, dcfp around each of next 2 dc, working BEHIND the previous 2 st, dcfp around each of the skipped dc, hdc in next dc (after the 4 st cable)*, repeat from * around, sl st to first dcfp (80)
Row 3-4: ch 2, *dcfp around first 2 dcfp, hdc in next hdc, dcfp around next 4 dcfp, hdc in next hdc*, repeat from * around, sl st to first dcfp (80)
Row 5: repeat row 2
Row 6-7: repeat row 3
Row 8: repeat row 2
Row 9-10: repeat row 3
Row 11: ch 2, *dcfp2tog, hdc in next hdc, skip 2 dcfp, dcfp around each of next 2 dcfp, working BEHIND the previous 2 st, dcfp around each of the skipped dcfp, hdc in next hdc*, repeat from * around, sl st to first dcfp (70)
Row 12: ch 2, *dcfp around dcfp, hdc in next hdc, dcfp2tog, dcfp2tog, hdc in next hdc*, repeat from * around, sl st to first dcfp (50)
Row 13: ch 2, *dcfp around dcfp, hdc in next hdc, dcfp2tog, hdc in next hdc*, repeat from * around, sl st to first dcfp (40)
Row 14: ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc (40)
Row 15: repeat row 14
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Bow: (worked in the round) – Use H hook
Chain 30, sl st to starting chain, be careful not to twist.
Row 1: ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc (30)
Row 2-5: repeat row 1
Fasten off, leaving very long tail for wrapping into a bow. Fold band in half and wrap long yarn tail around the middle to form bow shape, pulling tightly to get the proper shape. Use yarn needle to secure yarn tail. Attach bow to hat using yarn tail as desired.

Here is a few photos I snapped of the cable section which is the trickiest part. It takes a bit of practice to go behind the cables to do a front post double crochet and make them twist.

I also made a video tutorial for the cabled portion of this hat. It is my very first video, so please excuse my extreme newbie skills!

I hope you enjoyed my Cabled Messy Bun Bow Hat and I would absolutely love to see your creations or answer any questions you might have! Please help support CDM Handmade by commenting, sharing this post, or showing me your work on any of my social media links above. Thank you!

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

You might be asking yourself, “is she ever going to post any other patterns besides washcloths? Get on with it lady!”
I do promise, I have lots of great ideas and free patterns in store for you! As you can probably see, I’m just getting my blog optimized, and these are great, basic patterns for you (the reader) and me (the writer) to work with!

This pattern uses a combination of the half double crochet (hdc) and the slip stitch (sl st). Together, it is called the “crunch stitch”. I’ve also seen it called the “dijon stitch”, but that just reminds me of mustard, so I prefer the term crunch. You know, kind of like potato chips, yum!

Truthfully this is my favorite crochet washcloth to use for dishes and I have several customers who specially request this one. It really does have a fairly stiff “crunch” to the texture that just makes it so easy to scrub up your dirty pans! Here is your free pattern for the Crunch Stitch Crochet Washcloth!

Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired length. Depending on your yarn, hook and gauge, the row number will vary, but mine is usually 33 rows.
Tip: I usually fold my project in half diagonally to check how “square” it is. You can also measure each side to ensure they are equal.
Finishing: Ch 1, sc in the corner. Continue down the side of the washcloth, sc in each stitch. In the next corner stitch sc, ch 1, sc. Continue around entire project, repeating the corner pattern (sc, ch 1, sc) on each corner until you’ve completed a row all around your project. Join with slip stitch to the first sc.

There you have it, another completed crochet washcloth to add to your collection! But don’t go do any dishes, that would be a waste of great quality crochet time – grab another skein and hook up another one!

Thanks so much for visiting my blog! I would really love to hear what you think and see anything you’ve created with my patterns, so leave me a comment or send me an email!

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

Welcome to post #2 in my Crochet Washcloth Series! Did you get a chance to make my first pattern? Check out the Grit Stitch Washcloth!

So why a series about washcloths you ask? Well, as I learned to crochet, I made a lot of them. And I gave a lot as gifts. But I only gave away the nicely finished ones of course – you know, like when you cut baked goods to give as gifts: you give the nice ones away and only get to eat the rejects of broken cookies and mushed up brownies. The same went for my washcloths – I only got to keep the ugly ones and the ones that were imperfect. Through this trial and error of using the “rejects”, I found which were my favorite to use in the kitchen as well as my favorite to crochet!

I discovered this stitch, the moss stitch (also called the granite stitch), when the crochet world was abuzz about “Planned Pooling”, but that’s a story for a different day! It is a very easy stitch, but so satisfying in its symmetry and makes a very stretchy and pliable washcloth. It would work fine for dishes, but this washcloth would be lovely gifted with soaps to be used as a facecloth too.

Moss stitch is a very easy combination of single crochet and chain stitches and is described below, but if you want a good tutorial, please visit Moogly Blog here for a more detailed description.

Moss Stitch Washcloth

Chain 38
Row 1: sc in the 4th ch from the hook, *ch 1, skip the next ch, sc in the next ch; repeat from * until 2 ch remain, skip the next ch, sc in the last ch, turn. (35)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first ch space, *ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next ch space; repeat until 2 st remains, ch 1, skip next st and sc into the last st, turn. (35)

Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired length. Depending on your yarn, hook and gauge, the row number will vary, but mine is usually 33 rows.

Tip: I usually fold my project in half diagonally to check how “square” it is. You can also measure each side to ensure they are equal.

Finishing: Ch 1, sc in the corner. Continue down the side of the washcloth, sc in each stitch. In the next corner stitch sc, ch 1, sc. Continue around entire project, repeating the corner pattern (sc, ch 1, sc) on each corner until you’ve completed a row all around your project. Join with slip stitch to the first ch.

This post may contain affiliate links to products or materials that I have personally used or endorse. All opinions expressed are mine. Please see my disclosure policy here.

The pattern I’m sharing here as my very first is a very simple crochet washcloth. I taught myself to crochet by making washcloth after washcloth so that I could learn how to count stitches and keep my tension even. It took several attempts and different patterns that looked a lot like this:

Photo credit: Google image

until my skills improved enough to actually call my creation a washcloth! I also tried a large variety of patterns until I found the patterns I preferred to use as a finished product.

This pattern is a very simple beginner project using a combination of just single crochet and chain stitches.

Row 1: Ch as described above, sc in the 3rd ch from the hook, *skip the next ch, 2 sc in the next ch; repeat from * until 2 ch remain, skip the next ch, sc in the last ch, turn. (35)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *skip the next st, 2 sc in the next st; repeat until 1 st remains, skip the st and sc into the turning ch, turn. (35)
Repeat Row 2 until you reach the desired length. Depending on your yarn, hook and gauge, the row number will vary, but mine is usually 34 rows.

Tip: I usually fold my project in half diagonally to check how “square” it is. In the photo below you’ll notice that I needed one more row to make it square:

Finishing: Ch 1, sc in the corner. Continue down the side of the washcloth, sc in each stitch. In the next corner stitch sc, ch 1, sc. Continue around entire project, repeating the corner pattern (sc, ch 1, sc) on each corner until you’ve completed a row all around your project. Join with slip stitch to the first sc.

I first learned the grit stitch and made a washcloth using this pattern from Moogly Blog, but adapted the pattern to my favorite size and edging. Please visit Moogly Blog for a great video tutorial on the grit stitch.

Here is also a picture series that shows where your stitches should go in the first two rows:

Thanks for visiting my blog for my first free pattern and for supporting CDM Handmade!

Happy creating!

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Do not sell my patterns or claim them as your own. You may make items to sell (on Etsy, at craft fairs or other venues) from my patterns but you must link back to the pattern on my blog and give credit to CDM Handmade for the pattern. You may to share my patterns on social media as long as you link back directly to my blog post with a link. No copy and paste of CDM Handmade patterns will be allowed under any circumstances.