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I have a similar problem with one of my Toyota Corollas. It's a 95 model with the 1.8L engine (7A-FE, automatic). But unlike yours, it has plenty of power while running. Here's what it does. Occasionally the engine misses. Sometimes it will die. This is most likely to happen when you start the car and put it in reverse and start rolling without giving the engine time to adjust. I've been told by some customers that it will die sometimes when coming to a stop. But this has never happened when I drive it. I don't think it's a fuel issue because the car runs just fine when it's running.

Here's what I've tried so far:

Replaced spark plugs and wires.

Used gasoline additive fuel injector cleaner.

Checked air filter.

Checked vacuum hoses for leaks.

Replaced PCV valve and hoses.

Cleaned the air intake and throttle body with carburetor cleaner.

So far there is no change in the problem.

What I plan to do next:

Check the throttle position sensor.

Check the MAF sensor.

Adjust the idle via the set screw.

After that I have no idea what to do next if the problem persists. The check engine light is not on so I don't think there are any error codes. Will let you know.

The idle is electronic, possible causes of this could be the idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor, and air hose from filter. You can verify if there are any leaks in your filter housing with a visual inspection, you can also remove the mass air flow sensor very easily and see if it is clogged with dirt.

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Given that the condition only occurs now when the AC is active, I would say the issue is likely with the AC. If the compressor is bad, or there is some other issue causing resistance with the AC system, it can really load the engine and drag it down. Also, the AC compressor uses a lot of electrical current which can load the system as well, making the engine work harder. Try disconnecting the connector to the AC compressor clutch and see if the problem still persists. If it goes away, you know your problem is with the AC system. Honestly, by the sound of things, you might be better off without the AC in that vehicle if that's what it comes to. AC systems are often more expensive than people expect to repair. Not to mention there are a lot of components to the system and you need specialized equipment, and sometimes a special license to work on it. For those reasons I don't recommend the DIY do AC work themselves. written by EricCGpress the helpful button and check links below

ok , i guess you are saying the engine stalls when I use heavy electrical loads (like head lamps or brakes or even blinkers)
and when you shift from park to drive.
ok , if the engine RPM is 800 before the stall, then that is a total loss
of engine power with lost of idle controls.

The big load is in DRIVE on automatics huge going to DRIVE.

if battery voltage (yes, a 10 buck walfart meter works) can see 13.3 to 15vdc idling at 800 or more RPm.
the Alternator does not work below 800 so , dont expect it to.

so, if rpm in park is below 800 then we fix that first, see why?
if idle drops below 800 this is caused buy many things.
one vital fact missing is you didnt say, if I drive it like a stole it.
that is aggressive right foot. , do you have full engine power, now?
ignoring stalls. (see my drift there, "is engine power good;?)

I don't know this specific car. But, if it has one, check your Idle Air Valve. This can cause the engine to stall. If you can hold the gas pedal and the engine will continue to run until you let off the gas, it is likely the IAV. It will not necessarily cause the engine to run rough. That could be a number of things like spark plugs, wires or dirty injectors. It could also be a compression problem. Is the check engine light on?

This problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use
carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC
chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is
running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the
speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and
blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the
negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

This problem
is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and
throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or
Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake
while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will
try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30
minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and
disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base
idle control

I would check the operation of the idle speed control valve, it is what changes the idle speed when a load like the transmission is put on the engine, without it the engine will idle slow and stall out, this is even more apparent when reverse gear is selected or drive or the AC is tuned on. The ISC valve is located on the side of the throttle body top of upper intake manifold. Below is a picture of the ISC (idle speed control valve)