Note : Everything you see below was done on a NA car. This to get you up and running. If you are not familiar with EMS systems or tuning you should seek out a pro. We will not be teaching tuning or e-mailing maps as every car is different. This is to get you familiar with the E-manage Ultimate with a how to and basic set-up to get you running.

Here is your ECU location:

Everything in Pink has been verified and works fine.

Everything in Green is not needed.

Everything in Purple is being worked on.

1. I have hooked up the crank and cam sensors but haven't tried using them yet to read timing.

2. Also I have mention but have not tested the VSS wired before the connector under the ECU like a yellow box for gears. If some one has the time to test and verify let me know (If using the Boomslang harness you will need to wire this back together till we test the other option)

3. I will be working on a fix for Air and Water temp when time provides (They are not need to tune the car properly.)

You notice one blue pin in the pinout in connector C. This is VTM vtec oil pressure. (Update : VTM is hooked up in the Boomslang harness.)Most Greddy harnesses this is not hooked up . You will not be able to change the Vtec position without getting a check light if not hooked up . Please read the Greddy manual to hook it up properly. YEs I know Vtec works on the greddy turbo kit , that is because they did not move the RPM point of engagement .

Also take note that if your are NOT using the Boomslang harness and are hardwiring the unit your self to get the firing order correct (highlighted below.)

This is the jumper config.
::::NOTE JP17 has a red arrow. This is a misprint in the Book. (So yes The jumper setting Folex had are correct.)

Alright now let do some setup. Hook your e-manage to your computer and update the firmware to v1.14 from v1.09 (Must have 1.09 installed first as 1.14 is a update.)

Choosing you cars configuration :
As you can see here we are using the F20C setup and NOT the Accord. This will also work for the F22C.

( ALSO I HAVE COMFIRMED THAT WHEN THE CRANK AND CAM SENSORS ARE HOOKED UP YOU CAN READ RPM VIA the RPM signal )

Now select F20c and apply. Go to the Throttle tab and follow instructions in tab. By pushing on the throttle you can set the Min and Max. In the Now box you can watch the voltage as you press the pedal.

Here are some of the other menus to reference.

While there is a option for Knock control the software is not alowing it to work yet with the S2000. My dyno operator ([email protected]) has a knock mic and headphones for the dyno.

This is also the menu you can turn on the sub injector outputs and use them for something like Mark was saying and activate water injection. I can get into this later.

This is also the menu that allows you to scale larger injectors. You will need to know the lag time of the stock injector and the new injectors to get this to even remotely to work.

There is a alternative way to scale larger injectors. Highlighted in purple.
The pink Highlight is the map to test the timing is working correctly.

In the map selection menu select the four maps as shown below. We will be using these maps to do some initial testing and to scale larger injectors if needed. Also two of the maps will be your starting point for tuning.

Now select the Individual Cyl I/J Adj Map:

Now you can play with duty cycle and scale for bigger injectors here. You can also set duty cycle by RPM for Boosted Application. You will need a OBD II Scanner to read your short and long term fuel trim at idle to get a starting point. This takes some time while the ECU is adjusting for the changes. Be patient. Make an adjustment and then drive around conservatively till you get the fuel trim right. You should also use the INJ.ADJ Map 1 to dial this in. Note, this will take several days!

You can also use this Map to test individual injectors to see if they are working through the E-manage. By picking one injector at a time you can set the duty to -80 to shut the injector off. You should be able to hear the change in the running of your car. Set back to 0 or what you have scaled to get the bigger injectors to work and move on to the next one.

Next, let's test the timing and make sure it works. As mention you can not log timing through the e-manage. You will need the OBD II scanner to see base timing and calculate it from there with the adjustments that are made.

First select Individual Cyl. ING. Adj. Map:

Now click the corner blue box to highlight all. Here you can enter a value of -10 to pull 10 deg of timing. Hit enter and you should here a difference in the engine tone letting you know it is working.

The last step, select the two maps that we have not used yet. You can close the Individual timing map. The individual inj map depends if you are scaling larger injectors or not. If you are using the stock injectors you can turn this off. Now select Absolute pressure for both maps.

These maps can be used for either NA or boost. The two columns pointed out by the arrows will need to scaled accordingly. You can use the values below for NA tuning. You can adjust these value by clicking on the CHANGE SCALE button. For FI you will need to scale according to your need for pressure needs.

This should get you started and running!

Not sure if you have ventured into the New England forum, but we did a 03 AP1 with a AEM intake and Apex WorldSport exhaust. The plot below shows before and after tune with the Ultimate.

one thing for the noobs too tuning do not tune this thing your self take it to a professional even though this is a piggy back you can still damage your engine

Also for the noobs
Absolute pressure will never go into the negative values.
that is why Twiztid scale is positive in all areas.

FYI
There is a feature to convert your absolute values to a relative value scale however do not use this feature.
I have noticed if you switch say from absolute to relative and then back to absolute for some reason the scale begins to skew / change off of what was originally set. Most likely due to rounding errors in the conversion process.

Twiztid looking forward to the ignition logging modification and the temperature inputs.

We don't use O2 feedback and learn as it tends to change things you don't want it to change . If the E-manage constantly changes . The factory ECU is too, to compensate its fuel trim to keep it happy in closed loop. They will just be fighting each other and you will never have a stable tune . Think of it as two kids fighting over the same toy , one is bound to start crying

This is why we scale the injectors using a OBD II scan tool to watch fuel trim . This is one of the most important thing to get started in tuning the e-manage is getting the injector scaling correct.

On a dedicated track car where it is in open loop most of its time O2 feedback to the e-manage can be more helpful as the factory ECU is running on a set fuel map and not using O2 feedback . But on a street car where most of its time it is in closed loop it is not needed .

( Just because one tracks there car on the weekends and drives it to work on Monday is still a street car )

I should have clarified something in my last post I was only referring to using the A/F feedback in open loop (TPS greater then 75% independent of RPM also when RPM is greater then 5500 regardless of TPS) for the N/A car.

and with the FI car just below the average TPS that is requires for the system to reach ABS pressures of 14 or greater (96.5kPa absolute) just to make sure there is no lean tip in when boost starts to come on.
That TPS that pressure may go a little down a bit once the FI goes on then car.
I want to see how quickly the ULT is able to prevent lean tip in. If using the A/F feed back.

In closed loop the stock ECU would be controlling fuel based on its standard programming.