Where to Go in Malaysian Borneo: Sarawak or Sabah?

A Guide for Choosing Between Sarawak and Sabah in Borneo

Sarawak or Sabah? Malaysian Borneo's two states — divided by the independent country of Brunei — both have a lot to offer. Choosing between the two hurts and just isn't fair!

Seeing both Sarawak and Sabah is ideal and necessary for a rounded Borneo experience, but time is often against us. Sabah is usually brighter on the tourist radar, but Sarawak may turn out to be a better choice for your particular interests.

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Scuba Diving

••• The diving in Sipadan and around Mabul Island in Sabah is amazing. ultramarinfoto / Getty Images

Where to Go: Sabah

Sabah has a generous amount of world-class diving destinations. Sipidan and Mabul Island on the east coast are famous for the superb diving.

Layan-Layang and Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park are closer to Kota Kinabalu and provide plenty of incredible action underwater. Although there are some undeveloped beaches in Sarawak, Sabah is a clear choice for diving and snorkeling.

Proboscis Monkeys

Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary in Sabah is the most convenient place to learn all about the endangered, floppy-nosed proboscis monkeys.

For a more adventurous experience in a wilder setting, you can visit Sukau just outside of Sandakan in Sabah. Lodges will help you arrange a boat trip down the Kinabatangan River to see wild proboscis monkeys — among many other types of wildlife — that live along the banks.

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Rafflesia Flowers

••• The rafflesia is the heaviest flower in the world. Greg Rodgers

Where to Go: Sarawak and Sabah

Rafflesia flowers are the heaviest flowers in the world — and they smell rotten. Rather than relying on bees to cross pollinate, the rafflesia attracts flies with a smell that conjures death and decay.

The strange, other-worldy flowers bloom unpredictably when a tetrastigma vine — a wild member of the grape family — becomes infected by a particular parasite. Needless to say, this happens unpredictably and is a fairly rare occurrence.

The Rafflesia Information Centre in Sabah is the place to learn the most about Rafflesia flowers. You also have a chance to view flowers growing in the national park surrounding Mount Kinabalu.

In Sarawak, rafflesia flowers can be seen in Gunung Gading National Park. You'll need to ask at the park office in Kuching if any are currently in bloom.

Stay in a Longhouse

Although some longhouse stays are catered to tourists, you can still find authentic experiences in Sarawak. The most authentic Iban and Ulu longhouses are accessible only by river; you'll need to arrange a visit in advance through the local tourism board.

For proper etiquette, you'll need to present a gift (often a bottle of spirits or something not easy to get in the jungle) to the longhouse chief and give treats to the children.

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Serious Climbing and Trekking

Climbing Mount Kinabalu in Sabah is a rite of passage for adventurous travelers to Borneo. The volcano towers to 13,435 feet and is the third tallest in Southeast Asia. While climbing the slopes doesn't require technical training or equipment, getting to the top takes a lot of physical stamina — and a permit.

You'll find smaller volcanoes such as Gunung Gading to tackle in Sarawak, but don't expect much of a view.

Shopping

Although Kuching is consistently building new shopping malls, Kota Kinabalu in Sabah has bigger malls, more markets, and plenty of boutique shops for satisfying shopping needs.

Malls may be good for rainy days, but fluorescent lighting isn't why you came to Borneo! Have a look in some of the local markets for a more interesting experience or consider waiting until you get back to Kuala Lumpur for some serious shopping.