Morningside

A couple things worth noting:1) Rock quality on first pitch sucks, the rest is good.2) This is a bolted climb but certainly not a sport climb. Expect some long runouts.3) The cruxes are short, but if you cannot lead 5.9 I would exercise caution. The crux on P2 is right above a big ledge.4) You can rap the route with a 70m rope.

Four parties on the route today

The Incredible Hulk is an amazing peak, but I felt this route was slightly over-rated in terms of quality. Some of the belays are on big, detached features. Still a good route though. We went car-to-car using mountain bikes to reduce the approach time - you can ride at least a mile up to the Wilderness boundary. I would definitely bring a double set of cams to 3".

Direct NE Buttress

We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.

A fine coast range climb

Helicopter from Petersburg can take 2 climbers and gear. Total cost return is ~$1,000. We found the route in very dry conditions which no doubt made our ascent more straightforward. 15 hours camp to camp.A long, enjoyable ridge climb on mostly excellent rock. The views are spectacular, 6,500' down the north side and 3,500' down the south side!

Pitch after pitch of perfect splitters!

See Atkinson/Piche guide for detailed beta. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the GB says, more like .10- and with short cruxes. You can leave your #5 camalots at the top of pitch 2 and get them on the way down. They are not needed higher up. I recommend belaying just below the crux roof on p7, otherwise the leader could splat on the low-angled slab if they whip. This makes it a 10m pitch but it works best that way. Pitch 8 is probably undergraded at 5.9 in the GB. It's more like 5.10b. There are two gear belays: at the top of p6 and at the top of p10 (small-medium cams/nuts). The rest are fixed bolt anchors that are used for rapping the route. For p10 I would bring four #4 camalots. Kneepads are nice for the p2 OW and also for all the semi-hanging belays.