Are my windows installed wrong?

I just moved into a home with most of its windows replaced, however they left the finishing to me -- the new owner. So there are no exterior or interior trims.
..the new Andersen windows replaced bigger windows, so whoever installed these had to build up the surround (with 2x4's, drywall, insulation, exterior siding, etc) so that the new (smaller) windows would fit.
The problem is it appears that they installed the windows AFTER they built up the exterior. So the exterior siding of the house (boarding) is underneath the metal casing of the window, ie. you can see the nail heads.
My question is, isn't this a wrong way to install windows? Do I have to redo all these installs (over 10)? Or is this an ok lazy technique of installation -- and I should just finish the trim?
Also on the inside the jamb extensions are like ~1 inch too short as a result of the window depth being pushed out by the depth of the siding.
Thanks in advance!

Are my windows installed wrong?

Find that builder and installer, drag em out to the house, shove a stick of Dynamite as far as you can, put a 3' fuse on it and light it. They have until that fuse burns down to get it fixed.
Oh Yeah they pay for the new siding also. I am serious, I would most likely have a lawyer on standby

Are my windows installed wrong?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogamilsan

I just moved into a home with most of its windows replaced, however they left the finishing to me -- the new owner. So there are no exterior or interior trims.
..the new Andersen windows replaced bigger windows, so whoever installed these had to build up the surround (with 2x4's, drywall, insulation, exterior siding, etc) so that the new (smaller) windows would fit.
The problem is it appears that they installed the windows AFTER they built up the exterior. So the exterior siding of the house (boarding) is underneath the metal casing of the window, ie. you can see the nail heads.
My question is, isn't this a wrong way to install windows? Do I have to redo all these installs (over 10)? Or is this an ok lazy technique of installation -- and I should just finish the trim?
Also on the inside the jamb extensions are like ~1 inch too short as a result of the window depth being pushed out by the depth of the siding.
Thanks in advance!

Are my windows installed wrong?

My first question would be; "Are the 10 or so windows installed exactly like the ones shown in the picture?

Because I can tell you that, when a house has existing shiplap siding boards or the dreaded T-111 junk, unless the windows are installed prior to the siding going up, reinstalling these will be an nightmare. well....not really.

First of all, if you do have someone re-do these, here are the challenges.

Your going to have to live with having a narrow trim detail around your window. Something like 2-3/4" trim. I would reccommend 908 Staff Bead Brickmoulding Casing. You can't go any wider because if you do, your essentually cutting the siding off of the framing. Meaning; there should be 3" of framing around the window opening which means a stud and jack stud nailed together.

The next problem will be getting the top trim in between the newly installed head flashing and the top of the window. I would suggest ripping an 1/8" off the top of the head trim to make it 1-7/8". This will give you a little playroom to wedge it in there.

Also make sure he trims it in picture frame manner. Top piece first, then the sides and finally the bottom piece goes in between the side pieces. Make sure he sprays all the cuts with a Kilz Spray primer

The one bonus here may be that the extensions will now come in flush to your interior wall.

My best guess for an expense to fix this debacle would be about 2.5 hrs per window on the 1st floor and 3 hrs for 2nd floor units. Not sure what his hourly rate is but $40 is a good number for someone who knows what their doing. So it's about a $1,200 to $1,300 expense.

Good Luck!

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Are my windows installed wrong?

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrossWorks

My first question would be; "Are the 10 or so windows installed exactly like the ones shown in the picture?

Because I can tell you that, when a house has existing shiplap siding boards or the dreaded T-111 junk, unless the windows are installed prior to the siding going up, reinstalling these will be an nightmare. well....not really.

First of all, if you do have someone re-do these, here are the challenges.

Your going to have to live with having a narrow trim detail around your window. Something like 2-3/4" trim. I would reccommend 908 Staff Bead Brickmoulding Casing. You can't go any wider because if you do, your essentually cutting the siding off of the framing. Meaning; there should be 3" of framing around the window opening which means a stud and jack stud nailed together.

The next problem will be getting the top trim in between the newly installed head flashing and the top of the window. I would suggest ripping an 1/8" off the top of the head trim to make it 1-7/8". This will give you a little playroom to wedge it in there.

Also make sure he trims it in picture frame manner. Top piece first, then the sides and finally the bottom piece goes in between the side pieces. Make sure he sprays all the cuts with a Kilz Spray primer

The one bonus here may be that the extensions will now come in flush to your interior wall.

My best guess for an expense to fix this debacle would be about 2.5 hrs per window on the 1st floor and 3 hrs for 2nd floor units. Not sure what his hourly rate is but $40 is a good number for someone who knows what their doing. So it's about a $1,200 to $1,300 expense.

Good Luck!

Thanks for your input, it's very helpful.

The siding is reverse board and batten. And yes all 10 are installed like this.

I would have to get new plywood siding and cut to fit the perimeter of each window and seal the seams where the filler pieces butt up against the existing siding, right? That would mean if you were up close you could see a rectangular seam in the siding around each window.

The other thought that came to mind is to rip off the adjacent pieces of siding as a whole and cut the new 4x8 sheets to fit the new window size. Is that even possible with the overlap installation of these boards.

I'm not sure I understand the narrow trim detail limitation because of the stud and jack stud width. How wide can you go with a non debacled window install and why?

Are my windows installed wrong?

IMO as a practical matter you are going to be able to get away with murder in terms of weather-tight installation of the windows under the porch, they are primarily a cosmetic problem.

You're going to have bigger problems with windows in exposed locations, don't know what your budget is like, but at rehabs of my own rental property I've sometimes found it simpler just to bite the bullet and re-frame slightly oversize, in the end I got a much more satisfactory result both aesthetically and likely in terms of long-term performance.

Home Inspection: "A business with illogically high liability, slim profit margins and limited economies of scale. An incredibly diverse, multi-disciplined consulting service, delivered under difficult in-field circumstances, before a hostile audience in an impossibly short time frame, requiring the production of an extraordinarily detailed technical report, almost instantly, without benefit of research facilities or resources." - Alan Carson