we have a couple of the older models that that one replaced at work, and they are always gone cause they are easy to use and pretty on the spot accurate when compared to a benchtop meter with a display long enough to display a short sentence.

One thing I like about the flukes is where you plug in your probes is fairly easy to replace, like 15 bucks on ebay, some solder and two screws and your done. It may not seem that big of a deal, but when you start talking money on a meter you really like, having parts easy to source is much nicer than replacing an otherwise functional meter with a bit of cracked plastic around the banna jack.

First time I've had a meter which measures current! And a continuity buzzer.... bliss

But as I said to my kids, if I ever need to measure 1000V and 400C, I and my Arduino are deep in the cr@p

First lesson, never leave your meter leads in the current position when you are finished taking a current reading. If not the next time you go to take a 'quick' voltage reading you will end up at best blowing a protection fuse, or worst destroying something. When in the current position your meter leads represent a real world short circuit waiting to wreck havoc on all things electronic. Still happens to me sometimes after all the decades of using DMM, so best practice is to change leads back to voltage position before turning off the meter, so next use will be less likely to create drama and bad language.

Fluke use to have on some older model meters a safety feature where if the function knob was in the voltage mode but a lead was plugged into the amp position it would sound off awful on the buzzer. It was effective but did add costs to the models.