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Indiana farmer, 1904, v. 59, no. 27 (July 2)

Page 1

VOL. LIX.
INDIANAPOLIS, JULY 2, 1904.
NO 27.
SWINGING GATES AND WATER GAPS.
Two Satisfactory Gites.
lst Premium.—The fencing of branches
and creeks that run through farms has always been and ever will be a vexed question to the farmer. He wants something
inexpensive, strong and durable. When
we look back and view the damage done
to bridges and water gaps in the last year
by high water, we should study well tho
water gap question. Water can only be
held in check la given time until it goes
over, around or under the object it meets,
and we have got to take these three points
into consideration in the construction
of water gaps. We must so arrange
them that the water can pass with as little obstruction as possible, remembering
that the rise in the branch or creek .always brings down a lot of driftwood, straw
or stalks, and if you have got a water
gap or gate that it cannot pass freely, it
will dam up and overflow your Geld above,
or t_ar away your gate and fence.
I will give you two water gates, or
ways that I have tried with the best success. For the smaller streams I set a post
at each side of the stream in line
with the fence. .Set well in the ground.
Post need not be over six to ten inches
in diameter. Dig the hole some two
feet in diameter and fill in well around
post with concrete. Take the bark off
of the post, so concrete will adhere to it.
Now get two eyes for each post. The
eyes may be made of rod iron, bending one
end to make an eye that will take anr inch
rod, and cutting a screw for tap on the
other end. Bore through your post near
the top and bottom, nnd put them in and
screw them up. Then get an inch rod
.with a loop to the upper end. If your
posts are 20 feet apart, take 12 foot studding, rails or poles, and bore an inch hole
near one end. Insert your rod in the upper eye, then through the holes in the
studding, placing washers made of short
pieces of the studding next to each studding, to hold them the proper distance
apart Then slip your rod into lower
eye. The eyes should stand out far
enough from the post so that the studding
may ihe turned witnout tho ends hitting
the post. Fix the other side of stream
the same way. When your bolts are
both in, lay up tbe loose ends as you
would a rail fence. This should be down
stream. When the flood comes, your
gate will open and give free passage to
water, drift and whatever else comes,
and, when the flood is over, put on your
rubber boots and close the gap. Thero
is nothing about this gap that the water
can damage to much extent. Slats and
swinging gates are usually cleaned out
With first high water.
Here is another water way that I like
better, and it may be used on small and
larger streams. It is one that I used
for 15 years, and gave me but little
trouble. Cut a trench across creek and
bury a log, a little below the surface, ends
extending into banks. Place another log
across the stream, six or seven feet below
the first log. The top of this log should
l»e 12 or 15 inches higher than the upper
log, not more. This log, as it does not
rest on the ground, only at the ends,
should extend well into the banks. You
may set a post just below this log, on
each side of stream. It will help
bold the log, and you can join your fence
to it. Get some studding, rails or poles,
and spike them on these logs, about three
inches apart, the end up stream extend
ing into the dirt or gravel far enough so
that no drift can catch on them. The
lower end may extend somo 12 inches. It
is ^made* on the same principle as cattle
guards on the railroad. Do not get the
down stream end too high. The idea is
to have it so drift will pass over. You
might put some stone on the ends of those
logs, and along tho bank, to prevent
wash. I. N. C.
Marion Co.
A Durable Swinging Gate.
2d Premium.—My plan is to use six
posts, of good, durable timber, set well
in the ground, as follows: Two posts on
fence lino, as high as fence, ono on each
side of stream. Two more posts, about
o_ the gate when the gate is floating on
tho water, and it is also a stay to the
I use one inch Iboard for sides
gate post,
and gate.
Figure on this and you will see it is
not an expensive gate, but it is one you
do not have to repair after every little
rise in the stream, and it is stock proof.
It is a good plan to have the middle posts
one or two feet higher than the others,
and have 2x4's long enough to reach
from top pole to bottom of stream.
Kipley Co. II. II. M.
The Cattle Guard Gap.
3d Premium.—I will let another describe
the swinging gates and I will describe
something else. I will write from prac-
& ,___M"-"^-* »- ***-»
"Yellow Banks," Webster Lake, North Webster, Ind.
4 or G feet below the posts on fence line,
one on each side of stream and from 2 to 3
feet nearer together than upper posts.
These are for gate to swing on. Theu
2 more posts, about C feet below middle or
gate posts, and about one or two feet
farther apart than middle posts, so the
gate can swing clear. Then board sides
up from lower post to middle post, fence
high, then from middle post to upper post
lhe same. Then flag the bottom with
flat stone, if you havo them; if not, imbed
a sill in the ground, above nnd against
i/very set of posts, before you board up
the sides, to prevent the water from washing a channel under the gate. Get a
good solid pieco of timber for swinging
pole, and fasten __>curely to middle posts.
I use 4x4 scantling for small streams. For
tho gate I use 2x4 scantling, secured to
top pole with strap iron bands *4x2 inehes,
bent .around top polo and bolted to tlie
2x4's rounding the edges of 4x4 where the
bauds go around it, so that the gate will
rise and fall with tho water. Then begin at bottom of scantling to nail the
boards on, and nail as close together as
possible, so that the gate will float on the
water instead of the water running
through the cracks «nd catching everything that comes down stream. Have
the gate as high as the sides of the chute.
The object of having the chute wider at
the upper end than the middle, is to increase tho swiftness of the current and
take .everything through tho chute in a
hurry, and the object of having it boarded
up below is to prevent washing, keep any
stock from getting through at the ends
tical experience. Have been experimenting with water gaU-5 and gaps for 50
yoars on a creek running through my
farm, with bed about 30 feet wide. I
tried all kinds of hanging gates. Some
hung above, and some hinged to a log
buried in bottom of creek, but all faileil
to give satisfaction. One trouble with
these gates is they will all catch drift,
but the greatest troublo is they freeze fast
in the ice in winter time, then when the
ice goes out tho gates go too. A hanging gate only half a mile from mo hung
to a log across tlie creek last year, supported by a post at either end. The gate
is now gone, and nothing is left but the
log.
Now let mo describe what I think is best
and only perfect* water gap that I have
ever seen. We call it the "cattle guard"
gap, as it is constructed like the cattla
guards on the railroads. Select a dry
time in the fall, when the water is low.
Place a log across tho branch or creek,
down on bod of creek, with ends extend
ing into banks. Then place a second
log, down the stream about six feet. Let
it extend across tho water course, same as
tho other, but don't put quite so low in
bed of water course. Let the ends extend well into banks. Weight theso ends
down by placing big rock on them. Now
plaoe good sound rails or poles on these
logs. They should be about eight feet
long. Place them about six inches
apart, and let them extend out over the
log farther down the stream about 18 in
ches. Spike them securely, and you will
have a gate that will last for 20 years. I
have two that havo been in that long.
They never catch drift, and ice has no
effect on them.
On ono occasion, when this creek was
<m a high, two young meu undertook to .
ford it wiih a horso and buggy. They
lost control of their horse, and he swam
down tho creek and passed over this gap,
carrying the buggy with him and doing
no damage to either. I. D. It.
Premiums of $1, 75 cents, 50 centa
are given for the first, second and third
best articles for the Experience Department each week. Manuscript should be
sent direct to the Indiana Farmer Company and should reach as one week before date of publication.
No. 435, July 9.—Tell how to put out
shade trees, for town or country. Name
l.est varieties.
No. 430, July 10.—Show how our country schools can be improved.
Experimenting on the County Farms.
Editors Indiana Farmer:
Beceiit discussion as to tho desirability
and practicability of conducting field experiments at the couuty Poor Farms, leads
me to wish to see the question discussed
by some of our practical farmers as well
as by the newspaper editors. The question is doubtless worthy of careful consideration, as many of these farms would
be ideal places for such work.
The possibilities of the usefulness of
the county farms in conducting inexpensive experiments, such as tests of varieties of various farm crops, were forcibly
suggested to me last summer, when a
friend in a northern county, with whom
I had just made arrangements for a small
variety test of winter wheat*!, took me
out to seo the county farm, which was a
particularly fino one. It struck me ns
being an ideal place for carrying on such
work as we had just arranged for, and I
heartily wished that a few such places
wero available for variety tests in cooperation with the State Experiment Station. Tho extra labor required could
easily be provided for, and all expenses
in connection with the work taken caro
of as at the present time in cases whero
individual farmers are co-operating with
the station. The station could supply
the seeds and other materials and take
charge of the general plans of the experiment.
Tho results obtained from such experiments as could be carried on at couuty
farms would be of immense value to farmers of the county, wnile the cost would be
so small that it would not need to bo
considered. In fact, in many cases the
farm would profit by the experiments. I
firmly believe that if tlio field experimental work of the State station is to attain
its highest usefulness to the farmers of
the State, it must bo through co-operative
experiments conducted under local conditions all over the State. That farmers
are interested in local experiments is indicated by the fact that this year nearly
200 offered to furnish the ground and labor
for variety tests of grains. They know
that tho results obtained at the station
farm at Lafayette aro often not very widely applicable on account of the fact that
the climate and soil conditions vary in
different parts of the State.
Please let us have tliis question discussed, and if possible get the opinions
of the couuty officers who have charge of
these farms. A. T. Wiancko.
Purdue.
Attendance at the World's Fair is increasing.

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2010-11-22

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Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes.

VOL. LIX.
INDIANAPOLIS, JULY 2, 1904.
NO 27.
SWINGING GATES AND WATER GAPS.
Two Satisfactory Gites.
lst Premium.—The fencing of branches
and creeks that run through farms has always been and ever will be a vexed question to the farmer. He wants something
inexpensive, strong and durable. When
we look back and view the damage done
to bridges and water gaps in the last year
by high water, we should study well tho
water gap question. Water can only be
held in check la given time until it goes
over, around or under the object it meets,
and we have got to take these three points
into consideration in the construction
of water gaps. We must so arrange
them that the water can pass with as little obstruction as possible, remembering
that the rise in the branch or creek .always brings down a lot of driftwood, straw
or stalks, and if you have got a water
gap or gate that it cannot pass freely, it
will dam up and overflow your Geld above,
or t_ar away your gate and fence.
I will give you two water gates, or
ways that I have tried with the best success. For the smaller streams I set a post
at each side of the stream in line
with the fence. .Set well in the ground.
Post need not be over six to ten inches
in diameter. Dig the hole some two
feet in diameter and fill in well around
post with concrete. Take the bark off
of the post, so concrete will adhere to it.
Now get two eyes for each post. The
eyes may be made of rod iron, bending one
end to make an eye that will take anr inch
rod, and cutting a screw for tap on the
other end. Bore through your post near
the top and bottom, nnd put them in and
screw them up. Then get an inch rod
.with a loop to the upper end. If your
posts are 20 feet apart, take 12 foot studding, rails or poles, and bore an inch hole
near one end. Insert your rod in the upper eye, then through the holes in the
studding, placing washers made of short
pieces of the studding next to each studding, to hold them the proper distance
apart Then slip your rod into lower
eye. The eyes should stand out far
enough from the post so that the studding
may ihe turned witnout tho ends hitting
the post. Fix the other side of stream
the same way. When your bolts are
both in, lay up tbe loose ends as you
would a rail fence. This should be down
stream. When the flood comes, your
gate will open and give free passage to
water, drift and whatever else comes,
and, when the flood is over, put on your
rubber boots and close the gap. Thero
is nothing about this gap that the water
can damage to much extent. Slats and
swinging gates are usually cleaned out
With first high water.
Here is another water way that I like
better, and it may be used on small and
larger streams. It is one that I used
for 15 years, and gave me but little
trouble. Cut a trench across creek and
bury a log, a little below the surface, ends
extending into banks. Place another log
across the stream, six or seven feet below
the first log. The top of this log should
l»e 12 or 15 inches higher than the upper
log, not more. This log, as it does not
rest on the ground, only at the ends,
should extend well into the banks. You
may set a post just below this log, on
each side of stream. It will help
bold the log, and you can join your fence
to it. Get some studding, rails or poles,
and spike them on these logs, about three
inches apart, the end up stream extend
ing into the dirt or gravel far enough so
that no drift can catch on them. The
lower end may extend somo 12 inches. It
is ^made* on the same principle as cattle
guards on the railroad. Do not get the
down stream end too high. The idea is
to have it so drift will pass over. You
might put some stone on the ends of those
logs, and along tho bank, to prevent
wash. I. N. C.
Marion Co.
A Durable Swinging Gate.
2d Premium.—My plan is to use six
posts, of good, durable timber, set well
in the ground, as follows: Two posts on
fence lino, as high as fence, ono on each
side of stream. Two more posts, about
o_ the gate when the gate is floating on
tho water, and it is also a stay to the
I use one inch Iboard for sides
gate post,
and gate.
Figure on this and you will see it is
not an expensive gate, but it is one you
do not have to repair after every little
rise in the stream, and it is stock proof.
It is a good plan to have the middle posts
one or two feet higher than the others,
and have 2x4's long enough to reach
from top pole to bottom of stream.
Kipley Co. II. II. M.
The Cattle Guard Gap.
3d Premium.—I will let another describe
the swinging gates and I will describe
something else. I will write from prac-
& ,___M"-"^-* »- ***-»
"Yellow Banks," Webster Lake, North Webster, Ind.
4 or G feet below the posts on fence line,
one on each side of stream and from 2 to 3
feet nearer together than upper posts.
These are for gate to swing on. Theu
2 more posts, about C feet below middle or
gate posts, and about one or two feet
farther apart than middle posts, so the
gate can swing clear. Then board sides
up from lower post to middle post, fence
high, then from middle post to upper post
lhe same. Then flag the bottom with
flat stone, if you havo them; if not, imbed
a sill in the ground, above nnd against
i/very set of posts, before you board up
the sides, to prevent the water from washing a channel under the gate. Get a
good solid pieco of timber for swinging
pole, and fasten __>curely to middle posts.
I use 4x4 scantling for small streams. For
tho gate I use 2x4 scantling, secured to
top pole with strap iron bands *4x2 inehes,
bent .around top polo and bolted to tlie
2x4's rounding the edges of 4x4 where the
bauds go around it, so that the gate will
rise and fall with tho water. Then begin at bottom of scantling to nail the
boards on, and nail as close together as
possible, so that the gate will float on the
water instead of the water running
through the cracks «nd catching everything that comes down stream. Have
the gate as high as the sides of the chute.
The object of having the chute wider at
the upper end than the middle, is to increase tho swiftness of the current and
take .everything through tho chute in a
hurry, and the object of having it boarded
up below is to prevent washing, keep any
stock from getting through at the ends
tical experience. Have been experimenting with water gaU-5 and gaps for 50
yoars on a creek running through my
farm, with bed about 30 feet wide. I
tried all kinds of hanging gates. Some
hung above, and some hinged to a log
buried in bottom of creek, but all faileil
to give satisfaction. One trouble with
these gates is they will all catch drift,
but the greatest troublo is they freeze fast
in the ice in winter time, then when the
ice goes out tho gates go too. A hanging gate only half a mile from mo hung
to a log across tlie creek last year, supported by a post at either end. The gate
is now gone, and nothing is left but the
log.
Now let mo describe what I think is best
and only perfect* water gap that I have
ever seen. We call it the "cattle guard"
gap, as it is constructed like the cattla
guards on the railroads. Select a dry
time in the fall, when the water is low.
Place a log across tho branch or creek,
down on bod of creek, with ends extend
ing into banks. Then place a second
log, down the stream about six feet. Let
it extend across tho water course, same as
tho other, but don't put quite so low in
bed of water course. Let the ends extend well into banks. Weight theso ends
down by placing big rock on them. Now
plaoe good sound rails or poles on these
logs. They should be about eight feet
long. Place them about six inches
apart, and let them extend out over the
log farther down the stream about 18 in
ches. Spike them securely, and you will
have a gate that will last for 20 years. I
have two that havo been in that long.
They never catch drift, and ice has no
effect on them.
On ono occasion, when this creek was