Country vet Dr. Robert Sharp answers the most pressing questions about your beloved animals. Plus, get our best advice for pets.

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Q: I'm thinking of getting an identification microchip for my Weimaraner puppy, Wesley. I just want to know: Is this considered humane?

A: Absolutely. Implanting one of these devices (about the size of a grain of rice) between a dog's shoulder blades is no more painful or time-consuming than a vaccination. It's also inexpensive. Most vets charge around $50—a small price to pay for the security of knowing that you and your lost pet can be reunited with one scan. According to HomeAgain, its technology has reconnected 600,000 pets with their owners; the folks at AVID estimate that they identify 1,400 found animals daily. I highly recommend microchips as the 21st-century version of the "Lost Dog" poster—and insurance against a heartbreaking loss.

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Q: I just bought cold-hardy hens and set up a backyard coop. Is there anything extra I should do to keep it warm on especially frigid nights?

A: By selecting chickens bred to withstand low temperatures, thanks to thicker feathers and heavier builds, you've already taken the best precaution against Nebraska's harsh winters. Assuming your coop has solid walls that provide shelter from the wind—and that you replenish the birds' drinking water when it freezes—your hens should be able to survive the season by huddling together for warmth. (You can also coat their wattles and combs with petroleum jelly every other day to prevent frostbite.) Some farmers would argue against doing anything more. Their belief? Chickens accustomed to a heated coop don't acclimate to cold weather, so if the electricity goes out, you risk losing the entire flock in a single night.

But I'm a vet, not a farmer. If the hens were mine, I'd install one 250-watt infrared bulb near the waterer to ensure liquid refreshment, and another near the roost, to be flipped on in the event of a severe frost. I'd also have a small backup propane heater on hand, because power outages can indeed prove deadly. My daughter, Amy, came up with another solution should the electricity falter: Bring the gals into the laundry room until your utilities are restored. That seems a bit Green Acres to me, but it would certainly prove effective.

Q: I'm thinking of getting an identification microchip for my Weimaraner puppy, Wesley. I just want to know: Is this considered humane?

A: Absolutely. Implanting one of these devices (about the size of a grain of rice) between a dog's shoulder blades is no more painful or time-consuming than a vaccination. It's also inexpensive. Most vets charge around $50—a small price to pay for the security of knowing that you and your lost pet can be reunited with one scan. According to HomeAgain, its technology has reconnected 600,000 pets with their owners; the folks at AVID estimate that they identify 1,400 found animals daily. I highly recommend microchips as the 21st-century version of the "Lost Dog" poster—and insurance against a heartbreaking loss.

iStockPhoto

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Q: I just bought cold-hardy hens and set up a backyard coop. Is there anything extra I should do to keep it warm on especially frigid nights?

A: By selecting chickens bred to withstand low temperatures, thanks to thicker feathers and heavier builds, you've already taken the best precaution against Nebraska's harsh winters. Assuming your coop has solid walls that provide shelter from the wind—and that you replenish the birds' drinking water when it freezes—your hens should be able to survive the season by huddling together for warmth. (You can also coat their wattles and combs with petroleum jelly every other day to prevent frostbite.) Some farmers would argue against doing anything more. Their belief? Chickens accustomed to a heated coop don't acclimate to cold weather, so if the electricity goes out, you risk losing the entire flock in a single night.

But I'm a vet, not a farmer. If the hens were mine, I'd install one 250-watt infrared bulb near the waterer to ensure liquid refreshment, and another near the roost, to be flipped on in the event of a severe frost. I'd also have a small backup propane heater on hand, because power outages can indeed prove deadly. My daughter, Amy, came up with another solution should the electricity falter: Bring the gals into the laundry room until your utilities are restored. That seems a bit Green Acres to me, but it would certainly prove effective.

Erik Jacobs/Plough & Stars Project

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Q: When my cat sits on the windowsill, she meows in a way that almost sounds as if she's chirping. Is this normal?

A: At the very least, it's common. My clients often ask me this question. And my clinical technician has a theory about why her kitty, Nica, makes a similar racket while staring out the window: "She's calling in the birds." Now, that's speculation on my tech's part, but experts have postulated that cats imitate the sounds made by their prey to disarm the creatures. So your pet's chattering may well be her attempt at avian mimicry.

Next time you notice her chirping at the window, look outside. Are the cat's eyes glued to a bird, squirrel, or rabbit? Is her tail fluffed up and twitching from side to side? If so, she's probably smacking her lips in anticipation of a great catch. Felines are natural-born predators, and though domesticated, yours wants very much to chase the animals on the other side of the glass. In other words, all that windowsill chatter is an expression of pure feral excitement.

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Q: This fall, my husky's black nose turned a little pink. His skin doesn't look irritated. Should I be worried?

A: Your pet probably has a temporary—and harmless—case of "winter nose," or, as it's often called, "snow nose." Sometimes, when the temperature drops, so does the output of an enzyme called tyrosinase (which catalyzes the production of melanin and other skin pigments), causing a dark nose to lighten to brown or even a speckled pink.

Siberian huskies, Bernese mountain dogs, Labrador and golden retrievers, and a few other large breeds are particularly prone to nasal depigmentation, a purely cosmetic condition that poses no medical threat. In fact, even though the American Kennel Club lists a black nose as a requirement for huskies, it allows them to compete with snow nose.

Once healed, a sunburn or wound can also turn a canine's nose lighter, but you would have noticed blistering or an abrasion long before any change in color. In rare cases, depigmentation is an early sign of vitiligo, an autoimmune disease. It couldn't hurt to pay your vet a visit to rule this out. However, taking the season into account, and absent any irritation, I don't see any cause for concern. Your pooch's black nose should return after the weather warms back up.

Barb Del'Ve

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Q: Deacon, my 6-year-old Lab, nibbles on our sofa and bedding when he gets excited. How can I persuade him to stop?

A: Dogs chew on inappropriate objects for any number of reasons. Teething puppies test out their chompers on shoes or the occasional human hand. Grown dogs may gnaw out of boredom. Since you say Deacon nibbles when excited, I'd blame stress. In other words, it's his go-to tic when overstimulated—not unlike how some people nervously bite their fingernails or twirl their hair.

Before you can curb Deacon's habit, you need to figure out what sets him off. Does he start nibbling on the sofa every time the doorbell rings? Or when you arrive home from work? Once you've determined a pattern, you should be able to head it off. For instance, if your Lab gets worked up when guests come over, take him for a walk right before they're due to arrive, or distract him with a snack. Never leave the dog alone with the furniture he nibbles, and if you see that he's about to spring into action, intervene—but not by scolding, which will only add to the animal's anxiety. Instead, divert his attention by tossing around a favorite toy or doling out a treat. With your help and a little time, your pal should learn to respond to excitement by simply wagging his tail, rather than chewing on your stuff.

Gail Cox

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Q: Sometimes, my 11-year-old tabby walks with a limp for a few minutes after she wakes up. Should I take her to the vet to check that out?

A: A trip to the doc certainly couldn't hurt. At the very least, a veterinarian will be able to rule out injury or infection as the cause of your pet's temporary lameness. But most likely, the diagnosis will be degenerative joint disease (DJD), or, in layman's terms, arthritis.

Your senior cat wouldn't be alone; it's estimated that as many as 90 percent of felines over the age of 12 have some form of DJD. But these stoic creatures rarely show signs of discomfort, other than, say, trouble going up stairs or slight stiffness following a nap. Arthritic cats can also become lethargic and even a tad grumpy.

As cats age and their activity levels drop, they tend to put on a few pounds. If that's the case with your tabby, then the single most helpful thing you can do is limit her caloric intake. A heavier body aggravates joint problems further—ultimately resulting in even less exercise. The vet may also recommend painkillers and anti-inflammatory drugs, like cortisone, to help manage the problem. DJD progresses slowly, so as long as you keep your pal's weight in check, she has the potential to live a comfortable, happy life for years to come.

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Q: My son received a red-eared slider as a birthday present. I've heard these turtles carry salmonella; is it safe to let him keep the pet?

A: Red-eared sliders earned a bad rap in the 1970s, when a number of young children became infected with salmonella after handling these aquatic turtles. Turns out, the kids had been putting the tiny creatures in their mouths. So in 1975, the FDA banned the sale of turtles with shells under four inches long.

In truth, most reptiles and amphibians carry the bacterium that causes salmonella, and their owners must take precautions to avoid coming into contact with it. The FDA recommends that no child under 5 years old keep a turtle, lizard, or snake as a pet, based on the fact that these youngsters can't yet understand the need for proper hygiene. And humans of any age should wash their hands with soap and water after holding a turtle or touching an aquarium or any of its contents. Don't allow the critter to roam free in your home or swim in the bathtub. And never clean a turtle's habitat in the kitchen sink or anywhere food is prepared.

If your son and all other kids in the house are at least 5 years old and can obey these basic guidelines, the red-eared slider should make a fun addition to your family.

Jonne Naarala

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Q: My daughter likes to sneak our 10-week-old kitten a saucer of milk. He laps it up, but I've heard milk isn't good for cats. Should I tell her to stop?

A: I'd intervene on your kitty's behalf. Cats have no need for milk in their diets after they've been weaned, typically at 6 to 8 weeks old. Your furry friend may love the stuff, but that doesn't mean you should keep doling it out.

While nursing, a newborn feline produces an enzyme, called lactase, that helps break down the sugar (lactose) in its mother's milk. But as the kitten grows up and no longer relies on Mom for meals, the animal's ability to generate lactase wanes—eventually ceasing altogether. Without the enzyme, the large molecules of lactose go through the GI tract undigested, drawing far too much moisture. Put frankly: Serve an adult cat a saucer of milk, and the lactose-intolerant creature will repay you with diarrhea. Further complicating matters, cow's milk has a different nutritional makeup than cat's milk, one that's hard for felines of any age to digest.

Now, I can practically hear all the dairy farmers out there exclaiming, "Why, I've treated my barn cats to fresh milk for 40 years, and they love it!" That might be true, but no one follows those free-roaming creatures around to investigate the end results. In general—and this goes for any weaned feline—do your pet and your carpets a favor. Skip the milk.

Barb Del'Ve

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Q: I have such a hard time getting my beagle, Maximus, to swallow his meds. Any tricks you can share?

A: When I give a dog a pill, I don't mess around. I simply put my left hand on the animal's snout and guide his nose up. I roll his top lip under the teeth, which opens the dog's mouth. Then, I use my right thumb and index finger to place the pill at the very back of the tongue. If need be, I gently clamp the dog's mouth closed for a few seconds afterward. Mission accomplished.

Easy for you, clients say—you're a vet! For those who don't treat canines all day long, I suggest the following bit of trickery: Wrap the pill in a slice of deli meat, or employ a treat that encases the medicine and masks its smell (some, like Scripts Pill Pals, are made expressly for this purpose). Take the morsel with the medicine tucked inside in one hand, and a second snack, sans pill, in the other. Enthusiastically show your pet both pieces. Once he's caught on to his impending good fortune, give him the pill-stuffed treat, holding the empty one in front of his nose. Maximus will gobble down the first in anticipation of the second—and, chances are, he won't even notice that he just took his meds.

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Q: My leopard gecko used to discard his skin overnight, but lately the process has been taking several days. Is he just getting old, or could something be wrong?

A: It sounds like your lizard suffers from dysecdysis—a technical way of saying he's having trouble getting rid of his skin. And his advanced age has nothing to do with it: Even mature leopard geckos should be able to shed completely in about 24 hours.

The likely culprit? Low humidity. While it's true that these reptiles prefer dry habitats (humidity levels above 40 percent can make them susceptible to bacterial infections), geckos also need moist hideouts to help loosen their skin. This can be as basic as a plastic container turned upside down, with a hole cut for a doorway. Line the area with peat moss, and drop a little water on the peat each day; when the time comes, the reptile will retreat to that humid spot and should be able to shed with ease.

If your gecko still experiences difficulty, get him to a veterinary specialist who can investigate whether other factors, such as stress, nutritional deficiencies, or illness, may be to blame.