Three years ago I made the Reversible Strands for Men (and Women, too!) hat for my husband. It’s an amazing pattern by Nancy Smith and worked up in 2 hours. After multiple requests from my son, a few days later I made him one too. They loved wearing their matching hats and looked super cute in them. My son wore this hat EVERY DAY in the winter. Then the inevitable happened. One day he wore it to school and it did not come home. Luckily, it was at the end of winter. Snow made a comeback the day before Thanksgiving and 20 degree weather followed quickly behind so I finally made him a new hat (he’s only been asking for 8 months). But what would he wear around his neck?

Since I made the hats three years ago I’ve been trying to work up a matching scarf, but nothing ever looked quite right. Post stitches just look so much better in the round than they do worked from both sides. Then it occurred to me. Just work it up as a cowl in the round and add ribbing like Snow No?. Like Snow No? It can be worn with the ribbing pulled up over your nose if it’s really cold or with the ribbing folded in and the cowl pushed under your chin if it’s not. The Striped Cowl came out great and keeps my son toasty. Of course my husband wanted one too so they could match.

Pattern is written in child size with adult size in ( ). You’ll have the same number of stitches for each round of the body of the cowl so to make it longer or smaller, just start with more or less stitches. Make sure it is an even number of stitches.

Round 1: In Main Color – Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 59 FDC for child size (71 FDC for adult size), then for final FDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch.(60, 72)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), SC in same stitch, FPDC in next stitch, (SC in next stitch, FPDC in next stitch) around, SS to connect to top of first stitch. (60, 72)

For Child Size:Round 3-10: Repeat Round 2, you will make the SC in the SC from the row below and FPDC in the FPDC from the row below

Round 19-20: Change back to Main Color for first CH 1, Repeat Round 2 twice, do not finish off, continue onto Edging of Cowl. (72)

Edging of Cowl (with J hook):

You will be work the edging vertical to the body of the cowl. You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
You will always have the same number of stitches in each row. Turning Ch1 and SS that connect to edge of cowl do not count as stitches.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You may want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row like the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Before I begin, let me say Happy NatCroMo! That’s right, it’s National Crochet Month, so get that hook out and join the party. Now, onto the cowl…

Monday the snow did me wrong. After a winter of hating the snow and fighting against it, I finally embraced it. Over a foot was on the way. School and work were sure to be closed. I looked forward to it. And then… it didn’t show up.

In anticipation, I made a matching cowl to No More Snow! a hat. While the snow was a no show, single digits did make a comeback and this cowl did get play this week. Similar to Spareribs, but a little smaller with ribbed edging that lets it be pulled over your nose or mouth, Snow No? will keep you super toasty against the brutal winds and ridiculous temperatures.

Abbreviations:

BBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

Ch: Chain
FHDC:Foundation Half Double CrochetHDC: Half Double CrochetRSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.SC: Single CrochetSS: Slip Stitch
Video tutorials for the special stitches used in this pattern can now be found on the Crochet Video Tutorial page.

Pattern:

Body of Cowl (with J hook):

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 99 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (100)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Round 5-22: Repeat Rounds 2-4 six more times

Round 23-24: Repeat Rounds 2-3 one more time

Round 25: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (100)

Do not finish off. The body of the cowl is done. Now for the edging.

Edging of Cowl (with H hook):

You will be turning at the end of each row.
Be sure to count stitches as you go. It is easy to lose stitches if you don’t.
Keep your tension VERY loose.
You’ll want to use something to pick up the first and last stitches of each row. I used the eyehole side of a yarn needle.

Row 1: Continuing where you finished the body of the cowl, change to your H hook, Ch 7, turn. (7)

Row 2: Ch 1, SS in BLO of second Ch from hook, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row (you should be on the wrong side), turn. (7)

Row 3: Skip SS in foundation row, SS in BLO of each stitch, turn. (7)

Row 4: Ch 1, SS in BLO of each stitch, SS through both loops of foundation row for 2 stitches, turn. (7)

RSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf (if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.

Pattern:

The body of the cowl is worked in the round. You will be joining at the end of each round. Do not turn at the end of the round.

First Ch 1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 105 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, ss to connect to top part of stitch. (106)

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), RSC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 3: Ch 1, RHDC in each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 4: Ch 1, HDC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 5-28: Repeat Rounds 2-4 eight more times

Round 29-30: Repeat Rounds 2-3

Round 31: Ch 1, SC in BBL of each stitch around, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

Round 32: Turn, you are now working on the wrong side, SS around to tighten up the last row, SS to connect to top of first stitch (106)

FO and weave in the ends. Steam block to relax the yarn. This cowl done in Paton’s Classic Wool was CRAZY stiff before blocking. Paton’s Classic Wool also really softens up when you wet block it, so if steaming is still too stiff for you, wet block it.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

Wow, it’s been almost a year since I’ve posted. During that year I’ve been working a lot, still crocheting, and dabbling with the two stick thing (knitting).

I recently knit a Brioche Infinity Scarf and while I love the result, I felt like it took forever. To make it go faster, since I was using an acrylic wool blend, I steamed the hell out of it to make it grow, which it did… but it also lost the squishiness that makes the Brioche Infinity Scarf so delicious.

Abbreviations:

Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round, but you will be turning at the end of each row.

You will be working in post stitches for most of this pattern, but unlike how post stitches are frequently used, you will not be connecting the post stitches. This will result in a much more flexible fabric than you see when you connect the post stitches.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 2, 179 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, connect with SS.

Row 2: Turn, Ch 1, FPHDC across, connect with SS

Row 3-40: Repeat Row 2

Finish off and weave in ends.

Finished scarf is 54″ long and 6″ wide not blocked. I did not block my scarf because I did not want to lose the squishiness.

Variations:

Longer or shorter scarf: This foundation row is aprox. 60″ long and will shrink to 54″ in the final scarf. If you want a longer scarf, your foundation row should be 10% longer than your desired finished length.

Worsted Weight Not a Brioche Infinity Scarf

Worsted Weight Yarn: I have also made one in Patons Classic Wool which took around 2.5 skeins (525 yds), using a K hook and did 142 stitches for the foundation row. It was around a 49″ foundation row and I did 32 rows. The final scarf was very dense so I steamed and steamed it to open it up. It’s now around the same length and width as the one I made in Cuddle. It is a thicker scarf though and the DK weight yarn has more drape.

Kid’s Version: I made one for my son in Red Heart Super Saver. He’s been having issues tying his scarf recently and the infinity scarf is easier for him to put on without choking himself. For his scarf I used a K hook, did a foundation row of 140 stitches, 11 rows, and did not block it.

Kid’s Two Tone Scarf

Two Tone: I made my son’s scarf two tone, one side Royal Blue and one side Lighter Blue. I alternated colors on every other row. At the end of the rows I did the join with SS and Ch 1 with both colors before dropping one and starting the next. The seam isn’t spectacular, but it beats weaving in all those ends.

So while I was making these, I kept thinking how great it would work as just a ribbed cowl. New Year’s Eve I kept playing around with stitches and stitch patterns and while I wasn’t convinced just a ribbed cowl was the way to go, by New Year’s Day, my new infinity scarf Sugared Ribs was complete and I totally love how it came out. Sugared Ribs starts off with 4 shallow ribs (or faux ribs depending on your point of view), then ends with a few rows of seed stitch. I love ribbing and am always up to try a new crochet method. I really like how this ribbing came out. The rib rows take a while, but you’ll sprint through the final rows of seed stitch and the combo works great together.

Materials:

Abbreviations:

CH: ChainCHSP: Chain SpaceBBL: Work in the Back Back Loop only. This is the loop BEHIND the back loop.

Top of work where you can see the work done in the BBL

1 – For HDC in BBL, YO, insert hook into BBL

2 – YO, pull up a loop

3 – YO, pull through all loops on hook

FHDC:Foundation Half Double CrochetHDC: Half Double CrochetRSC: Raised Single Crochet (special stitch). After using this stitch in the Fritillary Scarf, I did some research to see if there was an official name for this stitch. While I found the stitch mentioned in a few places, I did not see it named anywhere else, so I’ve used the name from the Fritillary Scarf(if it was in American terms). This is similar to a back post stitch. Insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through both loops on hook.

Raised SC: 1 – Back to front under top loops of stitch

2 – Then from front to back under top loops of next stitch

3 – Your hook will now be around the post. Now YO, pull up a loop.

4 – YO, pull through both loops on hook, stitch is finished

RHDC: Raised Half Double Crochet (special stitch). Similar to the Raised Single Crochet, but this is the Half Double Crochet version. YO, insert hook from back to front, under top two loops of stitch, then from front to back, under top two loops of next stitch. Hook will be around the post. YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all loops on hook.SC: Single Crochet

Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round, just keep going at the end of each row.

Pattern:

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first HDC), 173 FHDC, then for final FHDC you will connect the foundation row. Make sure the foundation row is straight, put the two ends side by side, yo, insert hook into top two loops of chain of working side, then insert hook from the back to front of two loops of chain of the other side, yo, pull through both sides and pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook, you do not need to ss to connect to top part of stitch, just continue on with the next row. (175)

Row 2: RSC in each stitch around (175)

Row 3: RHDC in each stitch around (175)

Row 4: HDC in BBL of each stitch around (175)

Rows 5-10: Repeat Rows 2-4 two more times

Rows 11-12: Repeat Rows 2 and 3

Row 13: SC in BBL of each stitch around (175)

Row 14: SC, CH 1 (skip 1 SC) (175)

Row 15: SC in CHSP, CH 1 (skip SC) (175)

Rows 16-22: Repeat Row 15

Weave in ends.

Variations:

Only want the ribs (aka Sugar Free Ribs)? Repeat rows 2-4 until it’s as wide as you want it. you may want to end with a row of SS or SC.

This length is long enough to double, but you can make it shorter or longer, just use an odd number of stitches.

Please note this pattern is for personal use only. Please do not sell finished items from this pattern.

So while I like the Ribbed SleevoScarf for what it is, what I really wanted to capture was the luxurious decadence of the overindulgent scarf MsNovak had sent me. Plus it keeps getting colder here in NY, so you need sleeves AND a scarf. This weekend I made a much wider, much longer version so you can wear it as sleeves and a scarf or just a super big scarf.

This pattern is much looser than the Ribbed SleevoScarf. It was made for someone 5′ 8″ tall who wears a large, but could be considered more of a one size fits all pattern. BUT if you are making this for someone much shorter, you may want to make this a few stitches shorter. If they are really skinny, maybe knock off 2 or 3 rows. I’ll ask one of my short and skinny friends to try it on and will post a sizing update in a few days.

Dimensions: 89 inches long x 9.5 inches wide at neck. Since this is ribbed, it has a lot of stretch, but unlike the Ribbed SleevoScarf, the Sleevy Scarf does not have negative ease.

(The easier version of Row 1 if you are afraid of FHDC: Ch 151, HDC in back hump of the third chain from hook, HDC in the back hump of each chain across to end, turn (150))

Row 2: CH 2, skip first stitch, 149 HDC BLO across, turn (150)

Rows 3-17: Repeat row 2

Row 18: CH 2, fold right sides together, slip stitch through both loops of turning chain from opposite side (foundation row).
You will now be working on the opposite side (foundation row). [Insert hook in back loop, yo, insert hook in back loop on other side of work (your 17th row), yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook], repeat for 15.25” (31 stitches including chain).
Turn right side out, you will now be working into your 17th row only. Work HDC in BLO until 15.25” (31 stitches) left. Turn inside out and fold right sides together. [Insert hook in back loop, yo, insert hook in back loop on other side of work, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all loops on hook], repeat to end.

Weave in the ends and consider using Mary Jane Hall’s tip to secure the ends after you weave them in.

Wear as a scarf until your arms get cold, then put on your sleeves too.

Sleevy Scarf worn as Scarf with Sleeves

Sleevy Scarf finished flat view

I am still working on the Worsted weight version of this scarf. Be on the lookout for the pattern soon.

I’ve been going out on the weekends a lot with a t-shirt and super fun oversized ribbed knit scarf with the most overindulgent fringe ever. MsNovak sent me this amazing scarf during the summer’s Seasonal Scarf Swap. I think it’s my favorite scarf EVER. So some of these times when I’ve been going out in my t-shirt and scarf it’s been kind of cold. I kept playing with the scarf and wrapping it around my arms like a sleeve. I realized what I really needed was a multi-purpose scarf that could be used as sleeves when needed. I had seen pictures of some scarves turned shrug and browsed through some patterns, but they all seemed more like summer patterns, so I made one up.

Pattern has negative ease and is tight and stretches to fit a size Medium/Large for someone 5’6″-5’9″.

For a Small, do 1 or 2 less rows. For a larger size, add 1 or two rows (or more for even larger size or looser fit). For a SleevoScarf for someone shorter, for each inch, reduce by 2 stitches

Dimensions: 53.5 inches long and 8 inches wide at the unseamed center. The SleevoScarf does have a lot of stretch.

Pattern:

Chain 98

Row 1: HDC in back bump of third chain and in each chain across [97]

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first stitch), turn, HDC through both loops in first stitch, HDC in back loop only across to last stitch, HDC through both loops for last stitch.

Row 3: Repeat row 2 until you have 13 rows.

Finish off leaving a long tail to sew the first arm. I used mattress stitch to sew the arms, but you may want to use a stitch with more stretch. Fold the top of the scarf to the bottom row of the scarf and sew 21″ for the first arm. Try on to make sure it fits, you may want to sew it a little more or take out some stitches. Sew the second arm. Weave in the ends.

Wear as a scarf until your arms get cold, then wear as sleeves.

I am currently working on two other versions, in Worsted weight and Bulky weight yarn, that you can wrap around your neck and wear as a scarf and sleeves at the same time. Be on the lookout for those patterns soon.

My son loves him some yarn. Whenever he’s in Michael’s with me, he tries to pile everything into my basket. I usually let him pick 1 to actually buy. This summer he chose a skein of super soft and cuddly Red Heart Buttercup that he wanted a scarf made of for when he got chilly in the air conditioning. The stuff’s not easy to crochet with, but he loves the super simple scarf I made him.

Security Blanket Scarf Pattern:

Pattern:
Ch 10
Row 1: Ch 2, (does not count at stitch) DC 10, turn
Repeat this row until you run out of yarn

Notes: Difficult to crochet with, so you just kind of try to feel the top of the stitches, stick in your hook and guess. I wanted this to be dense enough to look like a solid piece of fabric but actually possible to crochet. My son loves it and asks for it every time he’s cold when he comes out of a bath or the AC is too much for him. He has also been seen grasping it when he’s sleeping at night. It’s basically a little security blanket you can wear around your neck.

During my exploration of big hooks and loose stitches, the Chinese Lantern Cowl was created. It uses a smaller hook for the edge rows and very long stitches made with a larger hook for the center rows.

Abbreviations (US terms used):

dSC: Dropped Single Crochet (Insert hook below 3 loops instead of 2 when you are making your Single Crochet. For this pattern, you will put your hook under the top of the TTR instead of into it.)

Chinese Lantern Cowl Pattern:

You will work in the round for the entire pattern, do not turn.

Row 1: With the 6.5mm/K hook, Ch 2, 100 FSC, join with the last stitch so that you join at the chain, then SS to join the top of the stitch. When you start the last stitch, insert the hook under the chain as usual, but also under the chain of the first stitch, then make your FSC stitch. If you have a problem joining the chain of the FSC, you can join them together when you weave in your ends. (100)

(The easier alternative for Row 1 if you are afraid of FSC: Ch 101, join with SS, Ch 1, SC 100, join with SS)

One of the first patterns I favorited on Ravelry was Lorraine Hern’s Bionic Wrap Scarf (pattern available on Ravelry and My PDF Patterns). Well… when I was about to pay for the pattern, I realized you needed two needles and not a hook to make this scarf. It was a knit pattern, so much for that idea. Over the months, I’ve continued to love the oversized stitch look and have been drawn back to this scarf time and time again.

The Bionic Wrap Scarf was the inspiration behind my crocheted Supersized See My Stitches Scarf which I had a blast making and LOVE wearing. I have decided this is my favorite scarf and I want to make a zillion more. It’s very simple and a lot of fun.

Supersized See My Stitches Scarf Pattern:

Leave a 6.5″-7″ tail when starting, this will become part of the fringe.

Row 1: Ch 2, 95 FHDC (super easy alternative: you can Ch 97, then 95 HDC if you are afraid of FHDC, but I really recommend FHDC)

Row 2: Ch 2, HDC in BLO

Row 3-4: repeat Row 2

Finish off leaving a 6.5″-7″ tail.

Then add the fringe.

Fringe:

Cut 18 13” strands.
Incorporate starting and ending ends of the scarf into the fringe so you don’t have to weave them in.
Thread 4 sets of 2 strands on the side with the ends and 5 sets of 2 strands on the other end of the scarf, push the loop in, then bring all the loops together and pull all the ends through at one time so it makes one big knot and one big fringe on each end.