Place the ham in a bucket, cover with cold water and leave to soak for 24 hours. This is done to take the saltiness out of it. Remove the ham and place it in a deep stockpot.

Next, roughly chop the carrots, celery and leeks and add them to the pot. Then add the juniper berries, peppercorns and bay leaves. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil. This can take up to one and a half hours. Turn down to a gentle simmer and cook for a further two hours.

For the glaze, heat the oven to 230C/450F/Gas8. Remove the ham from the pot. Cut around the shin of the leg and peel back the skin. Using a sharp knife, make a series of diagonal crosses both ways across the fat and stud each resulting diamond with a clove.

Mix together the quince jelly and the mustard until smooth. Place the ham on a baking tray and smear with the paste. Place in the oven, rotating it to roast the ham evenly, for around 20 minutes or until gloriously sticky and golden in colour. Serve with grainy mustard or chutney.