This is a fun crack, and I would not call it an offwidth. There is good hand jamming through the crux. It is however somewhat awkward, polished and slippery. You do not need any pro larger than a #3.5 Camalot, and in fact the crux section is #2 Camalot or smaller.
Feb 10, 2002

The rap slings are still in questionable shape as of mid April, 2005. I would have replaced one or two but was afraid I'd vomit on them after leading the damn climb.. It's not too hard to scramble right to Panic's anchors for a rap or wicked slab toprope session.-s
Apr 29, 2005

Isn't the photo above of I.V. League? That's what my guidebook seems to indicate (Front Range Crags by Peter Hubbel). Hubbel's book calls the crack/flake system to the right of the bolted route (Panic in the Gray Room) Emergency Entrance.
Jul 11, 2005

Interesting. The Classic Lyons Area guide (also by Hubbel) lists this route (the annoying flaring crack of extreme purple toenails) as Emergency Entrance while the far-right flake system is I.V. League.Either way, the latter is much more fun, whatever the name.
Jul 11, 2005

Yesterday, there were no slings on the tree to rap from. I continued up higher then had to downclimb a couple moves to get to Panic in the Gray Room's anchors. Be prepared to do the same or move out just below the tree and go up 15 feet of unprotected slab. The tree although its big enough, doesn't seem to be that securely rooted. I wouldn't recommend setting a TR off of just the tree alone.

I did find a #3.5 and #4 Camalot to be useful and you could go bigger if you wanted. By climbing left side in, the climb is quite easy for 5.7.
Feb 25, 2008

It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillett's guidebooks, I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards.
Jun 2, 2010