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c o en ca CI) en C Store it well, and it keeps for weeks When I buy parsley, I look for dark color and perky stems. Back home, I wash and dry it thoroughly; it needs a vigorous swishing in two or three changes of water to get out all the grit. While I'm washing it, I also shy, boring one whose presence is an afterthought and who rarely shouts for attention. Well, I think it's time to give parsley its due place in the kitchen. Sure, it may not be as sexy as basil or cilantro, but it F can be a culinary powerhouse. Because its flavor doesn't scream, you can use it extravagantly without muscling out other flavors. A big dose of chopped parsley enlivens any dish with brilliant, deep-green color and a clean, bright flavor. And don't forget that parsley leaves are beautiful whole, too, and make a lively addition to green salads or light soups. You'll find two common varieties of parsley at the market: curly and flatleaf, often called Italian. Both offer bright, grassy flavor, with a delicate balance of tang and sweetness, but flatleaf parsley is bolder, with a distinctive licorice-like edge. So, for most recipes, I favor the flat-leaf variety, which is also easier to wash. The curly type is particularly good in fresh salads like tabbouleh, where its frilled texture adds welcome bulk. 24 FINE COOKING or the longest time, parsley has gotten a bad rap as the wallflower of fresh herbs. You know, the pick over the bunch to discard any yellowed and decaying stems and leaves. A salad spinner is a great way to get the excess moisture off the leaves. If you store parsley loosely in a zip-top bag lined with a paper towel, it will keep fresh for a week-sometimes longer. Alternatively, you can trim at least half an inch off the stems and stand them in a jar of water in the fridge, loosely covered with a plastic bag. I use only the leaves and thin stems, snapping off the thicker lower stems, which I freeze and save for stocks. Parsley has plenty of partners Parsley is a good foil for the richness of cheese, from sharp Parmesan to mild fresh ricotta. It rounds out the flavor of pungent ingredients like anchovies, capers, olives, and crushed red pepper flakes, and it's lovely with lemon zest, garlic, shallots, and scallions. Nuts are good enriching partners-especially walnuts, hazelnuts, and pine nuts. A big dose of parsley adds punch to starchy foods like beans, potatoes, winter squash, and grains. You can even mix chopped parsley into the dough of savory biscuits or scones. Finally, when looking for a good mate, think color as well as flavor. Parsley is gorgeous-and delicious-with deep-orange vegetables like butternut squash and carrots; or stirred into tomato or red pepper soup. Photos: Scott Phillips BY RUTH LIVELY