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Both cables are older but very good.Might be a little sticky from sitting but I've got decent movement from both.

I can't seem to get the clutch set up like I expect it to be.Doesn't return well at all.I got it a little better before I decided to call it a day.

Correct me if I'm wrong,please.Is the only clutch return spring the hill holder spring? The turbo parts car I had sported a seperate return spring since his hill holder was out to lunch.I'm thinking that might be the way to go for now but really I want to do it right.And besides,that car is gone with the spring so I'd have to go buy something and right now stores are closing,etc.

I've got both cables taunt and the adjustment nuts are well down the rods,not near the outer end but near the inner side so there's plenty of room for adjustment.

Well, FWIW I had an '87 GL wagon that had the hill holder disconnected, with just another spring hooked onto the clutch fork. It felt terrible, and wouldn't return very well -- I think I had to put a bungee cord on the clutch fork to make it driveable. I put a new clutch cable in (even though the old one seemed to move okay), and it made a world of difference: felt great, still with no hookup to the hill holder.

Yes - on the HH equipped vehicles the return spring is the HH unit/cable.

On the DL's without the HH, there was a beefy return spring, and the hole is there to mount it on the clutch fork of the HH vehicles too. If you do not want the HH you can just remove the cable completely and put the spring on instead. It's actually quite a dangerous feature off-road so that's what I've done with my wagon. The unit is still there, but without it's cable the unit's own return spring prevents it from activating so it does not cause any problems just hanging out there unused.

Situations can arise. If you NEED to roll backwards to escape a bad angle or are teetering on the edge of a roll-over the HH can prevent you from backing off quickly - releaseing the clutch will power you forward, so now you are really in a bad situation. Can't go forward, can't go backward... Not cool.

And frankly if you know how to drive a clutch, it's just an extra bit of junk to break. Not to mention the same effect can be had with your hand brake.

It's a cute selling feature to get some low income kid to learn a stick.... buy our stick, it will be easy to learn to drive, and you will save a couple grand not buying brand X's automatic....

So,anyhow,here's something I just remembered.Skip lightened the flywheel,which causes the clutch fork to be positioned well back from its normal resting place.So now I've got a hill holder adjustment rod that is slightly short.I can't even spin a nut on it right now.

I'm going to change the title of this post and see how folks with the lighter f/w have gotten by.

I'm looking for any experience with the lightened flywheel,where the clutch fork sits with the lite f/w,and how to get the hill holder adj. rod to pass through the pin with enough space to spin a nut or two on.

might the adjuster bolt/pin in question be different lengths on different soobs? ive never seen one as i have an auto, but it sounds like your standard linkage issue to me :- )

look things over carefully and picture them functioning in your mind to make sure you are achieving proper gemoetry with whatever you bend or alter.

you might also want to take two of the rods, and cut one off rather low, so that the splicer doesnt need to pass thru anything. IE, instead of just spinning a splice nut onto the end of the one bolt and then adding an extension there, cut the bolt shorter so the splice never has to pass thru this collar youre talking about?

you get my idea? not sure if its coming across too clear.

from what ive heard, i would disable the hill holder on it if it were my car.. but if it were my car it would be driving around flat florida. call me biased.