Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

03-17-2007 08:14 AM

machine shop tom

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Build for 91 octane reliably you want a true 9.5:1 or alittle less. Use GM 350 5.7" connecting rods. use ARP rod bolts. A few of the rod bolt heads will contact the cam lobes. You have to grind the rod bolt head edge to allow .030" clearance minimum on a few of the rod bolts when using GM 5.7" rods with a 400 crank. The machine shop can take are of this for you or you can do it yourself. Requires mocking up the block, crank, rods, pistons and camshaft. I usually borrow a big race roller cam (260+ dur@.050) to do the rod bolt clearancing so that any street sized cam that the motor will see in the future, will fit with out rod bolt head interferience.

Use Keith Black Hyper KB -168+.030 22cc D dished pistons. You must set the top ring end gap large. .032" is not too large for this type piston.
it is just right for this hyper piston and mild N20.
With a non decked 400 block and felpro .039" 400 gasket your cr will be 9..30:1... with a cleanup cut on the block (.005") your cr will be 9.4:1. I would not go higher.
The above mentioned Comp XE274H10 will work well with a Performer RPM manifold.
The heads must be drilled for the extra 400 steam holes.
The Stock GM 400 cast crank is plenty strong.
The bottom end assembley must be rebalanced.

Are your TFS heads the 23deg heads or the "Twisted Wedge Heads"?

I would be very careful with timing using that cam with this build. The Comp XE series is designed to build a cylinder pressure and Comp is revising their recommendations for them because of that (they work almost too well). Also, the KB pistons require less total timing (around 30 degrees). I would recommend a cam with a little more duration at .050" lift and decking the block to optimise quench. This build will probably end up costing more than you think (they always do).

So, this is my first sbc build - and I need some help! I've got a '70s 400 sbc 2 bolt short block, and a set of bare Trick Flow aluminum heads with the following specs...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trick Flow

Chris,
You just bought yourself a set of 64CC combustion chambered, 192 CC intake port, 2.02/1.60 valve High Port heads. The springs that we put in them are good up to .600 valve lift. If you need more information let me know.

Where can I go from here with another $800 - $1,500? What CR? What pistons? Rockers? Cam? Carb? Intake? I need it to run on CA 91 pump gas, and I'm not really interested in nitrous. I'm looking for a very streetable engine, possible daily driver duty and 1/8 and 1/4 mile fun once a week. This is a budget build - I'm not afraid of wrenching myself or used parts so assume the only thing I'm going to farm out or pay top dollar for is the machining. (Can anyone recommend a good machine shop in the Los Angeles area?)

I have a '63 C-20 I can drop this into but if this turns out to be a sweet little motor I'll stick a Goodwrench 350 I have hanging around in the truck and find a nice little 2 door for this 400.