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August 2016

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For a recent interview with Euan, Paul and Martin please visit the Champions page on the Armadillo Merino website.

With a better forecast in the west today John and I decided to head to Loudoun Hill with a Falkirk Community Trust climbing team of B, Gayle and Iona. This worked well and we had a pleasant dry day climbing with enough breeze to keep the midges away.

B, John and Gayle on top of Pulpit Arete.

In various combinations and styles the team climbed Pulpit Arete, Conclusion Wall, Frustration Wall, Shattered Corner, Mantelshelf Wall, Pulpit Crack, Slings, Epitaph Variation, Strife, Cave Crack and the “wild, wild route” that is the knife edged pinnacle of The Edge.

I’m just back from a three day Falkirk Community Trust climbing and walking trip to the North-West of Scotland. We were based at the Inchnadamph hostel and arrived on Monday to showery conditions. The walkers opted for an ascent of Glas Bheinn from the hostel. The climbers decided on an adventurous day to make the most of the conditions and headed for the rarely climbed short sea stack called the Shark’s Tooth, which is off the sea-cliffs between Achnahaird Bay and Rubha Coigeach. We approached and returned via coasteering and swimming and climbed the South-East arête in wet suits and big boots.

Joanne swimming from the Shark’s Tooth.

On Tuesday the forecast was better and the walkers made for Suilven, whilst the climbers went to the Old Man of Stoer climbing this classic sea stack via the Original Route and Diamond Face Route.

Joanne, Gerard, Iona and Linda with The Old Man of Stoer behind.

Today the walkers traversed Cul Beag whilst the climbers headed up to Stac Pollaidh and climbed the excellent Summer Isle’s Arete Direct and November Groove with both teams taking in the western summit.

Paul and Hector Skipworth and I have been out in the Monte Rosa Massif over the last couple of days. Yesterday, in poor weather we made the approach to the Rifugio Mantova. Today we climbed Pyramid Vincent (4215m) and Balmenhorn (4167m). These were Hectors first 4000m peaks aged 14. A great age to start at.

Yesterday evening and early night Cameron and I were out in the Pentlands. We used the Caerketton Crags to look at security on steep ground and then spent time practicing navigation including some night nav.

Moonrise in the Pentlands.

It’s worth noting that the Caerketton Crags are very loose/friable and require care and good route choice.

Last weekend Kris and I were out in the hills around Peebles and the Yarrow Valley supervising a Silver DofE group for the City of Edinburgh Council.

The summit of Minch Moor with mountain bikers up from Innerleithen and the Cheviot behind.

Starting at Peebles and finishing at the Bowhill Estate and taking in Minch Moor with two wild camps made for a very pleasant route. With just a little rain on Saturday and improving weather to a sunny Monday the hills were drying out well.

Paul, Hector and I have been mountaineering in the Chamonix area the last three days. After completing an ecole de glace session on Sunday on the Mer de Glace and some rock climbing at Le Fayet yesterday morning, we walked to the Refuge Albert Premier.

Today we climbed the Petite Fourche (3520m) and the Tete Blanche (3421m). The mountains were in good condition. The glaciers were in excellent condition for this time of year.