Travel Guide To Les Iles D'Hyères

Although located just off the French Riviera, Les Iles d'Hyères (also known as Les Iles d'Or or The Golden Isles) seem a million miles away from the glitz of the Côte d'Azur. Of the three islands, Porquerolles and Port-Cros are the quietest and most beautiful. Both are privately owned by two ecologically-minded families and have been turned into National Parks to protect the breathtaking cliffs, crystalline coves and fine sandy beaches. They consequently offer a number of botanical walks and bicycle tours. L'Ile du Levant, the third island, does not offer the same haven. It is a military base and nudists' mecca overrun with souvenir shops, discos and camping grounds.

Where to stay in Les Iles d'Hyeres

PORQUEROLLES

LE MAS DU LANGOUSTIER Four kilometres from Porquerolles village (00 33 4 94 58 30 09). This is the island's only luxury hotel, tucked away in a pine grove at the western tip of the island. It combines a luxurious 50-room retreat with a gastronomic restaurant specialising in exquisite southern French cuisine by rising star, Joël Guillet. The owners will pick you up from the harbour. Open May to October. ££ AUBERGE LES GLYCINES Place d'Armes (00 33 4 94 58 30 36). Small but charming with an excellent shaded patio restaurant specialising in Provençal fish. Try to book Rooms 6 or 18. £ RESIDENCE HOTEL LES MEDES Rue de la Douane (00 33 4 94 12 41 24). Modern, apartment-style rooms with kitchens. The breakfast buffet is delicious. £ HOTEL SAINTE ANNE Place d'Armes (00 33 4 94 58 30 04). Modest but comfortable with a cosy family restaurant. £ PORT-CROS HOTEL LE MANOIR (00 33 4 94 05 90 52). The Hotel Le Manoir has 23 rooms, a pool and terrace dining with excellent traditional Provençal cuisine and fresh seafood and a magnificent view of the port at sunset. Will provide picnic lunches and arrange boat rentals. Open April to October. £ MAISON DU PORT (00 33 4 94 05 92 72). Three furnished double rooms available. There is also an apartment available for a one-week minimum stay. £ The Michelin Red Guide France (www.ViaMichelin.co.uk) offers the most exhaustive selection of hotels and restaurants in France.

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Where to eat out in Les Iles d'Hyeres

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RESTAURANT LA PLAGE DE L'ARGENT Way of the Lobster boatr (00 33 4 94 58 32 48; www.plagedargent.fr). Offers good Mediterranean food by the sea in an almost Caribbean-like setting. Open every day except Mondays.

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The Michelin Red Guide France (www.ViaMichelin.co.uk) offers the most exhaustive selection of hotels and restaurants in France.

Things to do in Les Iles d'Hyeres

On Porquerolles you can snorkel in clear water, dine in style and drink fine local wines. It is also the place to come to hike along botanical trails, roam craggy cliffs, or bump around dusty paths on a bicycle. Though the island is only about nine kilometres long and two kilometres wide, there are plenty of possibilities for exploring. Start by heading east to Fort Alycastre and its coveted creek and one of the loveliest beaches, Notre Dame, surrounded by pines. From there you can take the uphill route inland, past the lighthouse and across to the rocky capes of the wild southern coast: there are magnificent views from the sheltered cliff, l'Oustaou de Diou (House of God).

Another magnificent spot is the tiny inlet at Le Br&egrave;gan&ccedil;onnet where fishermen, sheltered from the mistral wind, traditionally prepared their bouillabaisse. Also look out for the ancient forts and batteries constructed under the orders of Cardinal Richelieu and Napoleon. No matter where you go, get back to the village for aperitifs, a ritual on Porquerolles.

Port-Cros is an enchanting island with a minuscule village (a couple of caf&egrave;s, a souvenir shop, a tiny grocer's). There are 30km of paths to explore and all sorts of flora and fauna to spot. Take the 30-minute hike, with stunning lookout points at every twist and turn, down to la Plage de la Palud, the island's best-known beach and its underwater trail, marked by yellow buoys, which reveals a spectacular array of Jules Verne-ish creatures in the calm sea.

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The best way to get around Les Iles d'Hyeres

Take the ferry service, which goes between Porquerolles and 'La Tour Fondue' at the tip of the Giens peninsula, Hyères (00 33 4 94 58 95 14). Reserve parking in Hyéres is available all year.

To get to Port-Cros from Le Lavandou: Vedettes Iles d'Or (00 33 4 94 71 01 02) takes 35 minutes. To Port-Cros from the Port of Hyéres: TLV maritime company (00 33 4 94 57 44 07), all year, takes one hour. There is a direct service from Port-Cros to Porquerolles that runs during July and August. Contact directly for a comprehensive time table (00 33 4 94 58 95 14).

Bateau Taxi-Le Pelican (00 33 4 09 52 31 19) is pricey, but convenient for groups of five or six if you've missed the last ferry; it runs 24 hours a day.