The Deliciousness Continues…

Almeria, Eastern Andalucia

Touring Andalucia’s eastern region with Tasty Andalucia

Tasty Tomatoes at Clisol, Almeria

Day 2. Location Almeria. Tomato Tuesday!

We spend a morning touring the agricultural production of Clisol in Almeria

We journeyed east along the Costa del Sol to Almeria, internationally famous for its tomatoes and plastic greenhouses you can see from outer space. The first thing that strikes you on this journey is the incredibly barren land, it’s all desert, so you wonder how anything could possibly grow here. Well, we were about to find out…

Our visit is to Clisol, based in El Ejido, a family-run tomato and pepper grower. We are met by Clisol’s Lola Gomez, 2nd generation grower who has transformed her family business by creating a finely tuned ecosystem in her greenhouses. Production in greenhouses began some 50 years ago in order to grow produce in the barren terrain. First, they had to bring in the soil to cover the desert. Then they topped the soil with coarse sand to stop evaporation. Then when farmers started using plastic sheets to stop the wind uprooting their plants, they realised that the plastic encouraged plants to ripen faster and in fact that 2 annual crops could be achieved. Thus was born the greenhouse system in Almeria.

Lola, a leading lady in her industry, has been a pioneer of organic ecosystems within the greenhouses. What impressed me most was how she introduces a collection of different bugs to cultivate this live ecosystem that’s organic and an ideal environment for growing tomatoes and peppers. Her vegetables grow mostly in containers filled with a shallow layer of coconut ‘soil’. They are fed mineral nutrient solutions via a spray system. Pickers work from sitting on trollies as per the pic above. Lola demonstrated how she ‘combs’ the baby plants twice a day to strengthen them, simulating the natural stresses of wind they don’t encounter in the greenhouses. Also fascinating were her pheromone traps which confuse bugs so that they don’t reproduce. The plants are fed nutrients and water through an electronic irrigation system.

After digesting all this information it was time to taste the produce. When it comes to my favourite things about living in Spain, tomatoes are in my top 5 and feature heavily in my cooking courses, and these did not disappoint. Simply dressed with a good quality extra virgin olive oil & salt, the selection of tomatoes from Lola’s ‘babies’ were some of the sweetest and most delicious I’ve ever tasted. On the tasting table amongst the varieties of tomatoes, I was surprised to see baby cucumbers drizzled with honey, these were really fabulous, a combination soon to be appearing in my kitchen in Vejer de la Frontera.

Tasting tomatoes at Clisol. Tomatoes are one of my favourite things about living in Spain.

My Takeaways;

The greenhouses in Almeria cover 31.000 hectares and produce 3.7m tons of fruit & vegetables each year on a land where nothing naturally grows. It’s remarkably successful

The greenhouses are changed every 3 years and the plastic is taken away and recycled. It is monitored by the government

Harvests take place between November and March. From the time of planting the turnaround time for cherry tomatoes is 75 days and 90 days for larger varieties.

At the end of the harvest, Clisol let the neighbours sheep and goats into the tents to eat the plants. The poo from these animals is then used as fertilizer for the next years crop

Lola Gomez is somewhat of an Almerian agricultural expert and she’s even given a TED Talk which is currently only available in Spanish, however, there is a very interesting BBC short film (see below) about the agricultural revolution in Almeria which features Lola & Clisol

Clisol offer guided tours of the farm and facilities, and have pioneered agricultural tourism in Almeria, welcoming and educating tens of thousands of visitors a year, in particular children from local schools

Afternoon at the fish auction – Lonja de Pescado de Almeria

All the action at the fish auction – Lonja de Pescado de Almeria

As guests with Tasty Andalucia, we were given special access to the trade-only fish auction at the Lonja de Almeria port, where restaurants, fishmongers and supermarkets come to purchase. We met Elvira, a marine biologist, who works for Del Barco de la Mesa (‘from the boat to the table’), this initiative sells products through its website from the auction direct to the consumer without the need for intermediaries, who would profit from the transaction.

A fishing boat coming into the harbour in Almeria, at the fish auction

It was fascinating to watch the auction, seeing all manner of seafood and shellfish pass before us on the conveyor belt and go under the electronic hammer. Seafood wasn’t the only thing the fishermen were unloading from their boats, diligently they had collected bags of plastic that they find out at sea, it was great to see their efforts to rid our seas of plastic pollution.

Mediterranean fish from the fish auction in Almeria

My Takeaways

There are 5 lonjas in Almeria, the lonjas de Almeria, de Adra, de Roquetas de Mar, de Carboneras and de Garrucha

Seeing the fishermen bringing sacks of plastics back to shore along with their catch

This is the fish that can be delivered to your door 2 hours after being bought at auction if you live 40 km away, or the following morning to anywhere else in Spain via Del Barco de la Mesa. If you don’t have a source of fresh fish close by, this is a great service.

Evening – a fabulous dinner at El Parque with Del Barco de la Mesa.

The team enjoying a fabulously-fresh fish supper at El Parque Restaurant, Almeria, with Del Barco de la Mesa

I highly recommend El Parque restaurant. We feasted on gambas blancas (white prawns), gambas rojas (red prawns), quisquillas (a type of shrimp), monkfish cooked two ways; a la plancha (fried on a hot plate) and frito (deep fried), rice with ‘pota’ (a local squid) which was cooked in a way similar to a paella. All washed down with a perfectly chilled Manzanllia Sherry, which was the perfect combination. It was all absolutely delicious and exciting to eat what you have just seen being landed off a fishing boat, then into the auction and bought by Barco al Mesa.

Day 2 – My Highlights from Almeria

The use of bugs purchased in tubes to create the ecosystem

How the system started in an otherwise barren land

The size of everything including the height of the tomato and pepper plants grow to

The roof of each greenhouse is spray painted with whitewash to deflect the heat of the sun, just like they do in Andalucia with their houses

How many tomatoes I could eat in 10 minutes

I thought Gambas Blancas white prawns were only from the Huelva/Sanlucar area but they are in the Med too. They are found close to shore whereas the red prawns come from much further out to sea

The availability of extremely fresh fish from the auction to the public via Del Barco de la Mesa

Annie in the press

Annie B's Food Holidays in the Press

People Love Annie B

So much more than cooking...Annie has a knack of making you feel as if you have known her for ages and the day was fun and informative. Eating the fruits of our labour up on the fabulous terrace with my fellow students was lovely and my daughter who was visiting me at the time was Continue Reading

miloleicestershireleicestershireJanuary 8, 2015

Just one day at Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen makes you feel like you’re at a good friend’s kitchen.

pollockceAyase, JapanJanuary 8, 2015

From the first contact Annie was so friendly and helpful – and patient with all my questions as I tried to work out how to get to Vejer from Seville by public transport!

tui52Auckland, NZJanuary 8, 2015

We enjoyed our cooking course with Annie B., it offerd much more than we could imagine. Helena

HelenaHelsinkiApril 2015June 12, 2015

Your course was a big help in bringing some great food back to our home dinner table as well as opening my eyes to more of the Sherry opportunities.

Mark & DeeSydney, AustraliaJuly 8, 2016

Thanks for the great recipes, and sherry education - not something I would have ever drunk before coming to Vejer, yet now my poor house guests have had sherry, sherry cake and a lecture from me about the making of sherry! Lindsay

LindsayEdinburghAugust 26, 2016

If you love food, culture and a splash of wine with a passionate person who understands the special ingredients of Andalucia then you could not spend a better day in this beautiful hilltop village.

October 27, 2016

Annie B’s tour was a perfect blend of food and drink for our group of wine-obsessed Americans/American Sommeliers. Annie is passionate and hilarious, she planned an action packed few days for us focussing on Spanish wine and Sherry, which we wanted to explore, and also the gourmet delights of Cadiz that she is so knowledgeable Continue Reading

Thank you once again, we truly had the most wonderful experience with you in Vejer. Our expectations were high coming to your classes and unbelievably were far surpassed! I am looking forward to trying your wonderful recipes at home.

Thank you so much for the memorable time we had with you and providing a window into your world. We have loved this opportunity and look forward to sharing these new ways of doing things in the kitchen with family and friends. We also have new friends in Clare and Jen and hope that one Continue Reading

Peter & MaryanneAustraliaApril 29, 2017

Almadraba – What an Experience!

I have just returned from the most fabulous four days on Annie's Almadraba tour. What a wonderful experience! Beautifully organised and super friendly with many homely touches but a fierce professionalism in the background so that everything runs like clockwork. The cooking course was terrific, the tapas tours memorable, the sherry tasting interesting and educational Continue Reading

Julia Thum Bray, UKMay 25, 2017

Everything we had hoped for…

The four day course fulfilled everything we had hoped for, and because of the relaxed and generous way it was delivered, we are agreed that you pleasantly exceeded our expectations.

John & JaneDevon, UKJune 9, 2017

Great Fun for Foodies!

We spent a fabulous week with Anne exploring the food and drink of Andalusian Spain. We based ourselves in the beautiful hilltop town of Vejer de la Frontera, Anne's home. Cooking classes at her hilltop home, degustaciones of fresh tuna on the coast, Sherry tastings at bodegas, Arabic food luncheons, Tapa's tours and fabulous meals Continue Reading

Stephen Puerto RicoSeptember 29, 2017

Fabulous food and such fun

Annie makes cooking and eating delicious food a course requirement. We explored the beautiful town of Vejer, tasted sherry in atmospheric bodegas and sampled fabulous tapas. It was all well organized and felt like an ongoing party instead of a course. If the opportunity to attend one of her classes presents itself jump at it!

Diane BerkNY, USAOctober 30, 2017

Bespoke Culinary Adventure was terrific

I love my friends and we all love food, so seven of us arranged 5 days with Annie (one came specially from the US). She is such a warm and easy person she was part of the gang at once and we followed her around like greedy ducklings while, with huge knowledge and authority, she Continue Reading

Verity, LondonFebruary 28, 2018

Thank you :)

Thank you for a wonderful day of cooking in your beautiful home! Great food, great sherry, great company! We loved Vejer!

Suzanne Leonardson Hall New Jersey, USAMarch 23, 2018

We had a fantastic day in Tangiers, arranged by Annie B

Our guide was Abdul, such an amazing man, and so knowledgeable. He seemed to be the "grandfather" of the guides. He also seemed to know all the right people in Tangier. I don't know if all the tours are like that, but we were impressed! I can´t believe how much we packed into the day. Continue Reading

Marianne C & familyVancover B.C.April 2, 2018

When can we return?

Your passion and generosity from our first email exchange, truly was such a gift to our journey. You significantly helped 'sketch' our itinerary, a trip to be remembered. I still am suffering from Spanish fever and cannot wait to return. And Erizo, never again will a bite be taken without an immediate flashback to the Continue Reading

Mike & Heather BSeattle, USAMay 15, 2018

Day Trip to Tangiers

Thank you very much for organising our trip to Tangiers. All a great success and Aziz was charming and lunch was out of this world! We needed a bit more time in the souk, but can always go back another time!

Family DiamondJune 2017June 17, 2018

Just delicious!

Thank you for such a lovely experience. Both my mother and I had a great time. Your kitchen and home is warm and inviting, and your rooftop terrace devine! All of the food was delicious, and we can't wait to try and reproduce some of the recipes.