Aconcagua Normal Route Extended

Best acclimatization. Two summits.

This 20-days program was designed to increase the summit success of climbers that need an extra acclimatization. And also you can get two summits climbing Mt. Bonete (5000 mts.)

About the Route

Stand on the highest spot of the Southern Hemisphere and observe the magnificence of The Andes The normal route is technically easy. The hard part is the altitude. This is why we are so careful with the acclimatization. The approach to Plaza de Mulas is a long distance of about 40 km. We are also used to making acclimatization trekking to Plaza Francia, the Base Camp of the Southern Wall. It takes us three days to get to Plaza de Mulas. To reach a better acclimatization and to enjoy a unique view of the Aconcagua we will make a trekking to Mt Bonete (4900 mts) . After that, we start the climbing to the Summit. Our suggested program is set for two days of double equipment porting and security. When the last stage begins, we go higher and higher until we reach the summit. In the Aconcagua , sometimes the presence of a white wind difficults the ascent, this is why we use the security days, increasing the chances to reach the summit.

Our expedition starts in Mendoza, Argentina. A representative of INKA Expediciones will be waiting for you at the airport. We will stay at the hotel in the city. A group meeting will follow and you will be introduced to your guides and team members.Accommodation: Hotel double or triple room. – Transportation: Airport – Hotel in Mendoza.

After you obtain individual park entrance and ascent permits, assisted by your guide, we meet at our commercial office to finalize all the arrangements of the expedition. Later we travel to Villa de Penitentes, where we stay at a Hotel in the mountain. There we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp by mule.Transportation: Mendoza – Penitentes – Accomodation: Hotel – Meals: Breakfast & Dinner

We drive you to Horcones Park, where we get our first view of the mountain. We will get our permits checked at the Ranger station. Then, we head off to Confluencia by walking 4 or 5 hours.Transportation: Penitentes – Horcones – Accommodation: Tents/Dormitory Dome – Meals. Breakfast, Lunch Box & Dinner

We’ve included this day in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive to Plaza Francia viewpoint of the impressive Aconcagua South Wall. This is one of the nicest points of the expedition.Accommodation: Tents/Dormitory Dome – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Box & Dinner

After 8-9 hours hiking across “Playa Ancha” and climbing up through a very steep path, we reach Plaza de Mulas, the biggest base camp in Aconcagua Park. By the end of the day, most of us will feel the altitude.Accommodation: Tents/Dormitory Dome– Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Box & Dinner

We’ve included this climbing in order to acclimatize better, and give you more chances to summit. Also you’ll enjoy a spectacular view of the west face of Aconcagua.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Box & Dinner

We’ll stay in Plaza de Mulas to rest from the climbing of Bonete. We will divide expedition loads to carry to the high camps (community gear, fuel and food). We double carry to keep pack weight down and help ensure good acclimatization.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

This is a challenging day where we gain 1.000 m. with a heavy load on easy terrain. Then we’ll return to Base Camp. It’s important to take advantage of the comfort and lower altitude at Base Camp.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Box & Dinner

The following morning we definite start the ascent to Aconcagua. We move to Camp 1, called “Plaza Canada”. Until now, we were working on get an optimal acclimatization. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to do summit.Accommodation:Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Camp 2, called “Nido de Condores” (meaning Condor Nest), is located in a high pass at 5.400 m. and provides a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

This day is dedicated to improving the acclimatization to altitude. The guide may propose different activities according to the condition of the group. We take the opportunity to rest and give our body more opportunities to acclimatize.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

It is the most demanding day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6.500 m. We ascend through the “Portezuelo del Viento” , climb “La Canaleta”, and the “Filo del Guanaco”, that leads us to the summit. The prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally understand once you reach it. At the end of this experience, we descend to Camp 3.Accommodation: Tents – Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

We have two extra days set aside on our itinerary to attempt summit. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit.Accommodation:Tents – Meals:Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

We have breakfast and then start the descent from Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes. There is a private transport waiting for us to take us to the hotel in Mendoza City.Transportation: Horcones – Penitentes – Mendoza – Accommodation: Hotel double or triple room –Meals: Breakfast, Lunch Box.

NOTE
The proposed itinerary can be changed due to weather conditions o other forced situations that put in risk the group security. The guides have the authority to change the program according to their criteria. You can be sure the changes have two fundamental objectives. These are to maximize the security and the summit chances. And they are based on our guides knowledge and experience.

Aconcagua Normal Route Extended Map

The guides are professional, experimented and highly qualified guides, with degrees and licenses from organisms that guarantee their special training. The Provincial School for Mountain and Trekking Guides (EPGAMT), is the only school that specializes on the Aconcagua, accredited in the Argentine Association for Mountain Guides (AAGM) and members of the Professional Mountain and Trekking Guides Association (AGPMT). Some of the guides have licences from the IFMGA.

All the transportation are according to the schedule, for the group, in private vehicle.Transport Airport – Hotel in Mendoza (18 km). Transport Mendoza-Penitentes (180 km). Transport to and from Penitentes-Horcones, Aconcagua Park Entrance (7 km). Return to Mendoza from Horcones (187 km).

City of Mendoza: Two (2) nights of lodging in a 3 *** hotel in the city of Mendoza, double or triple room, breakfast included. Penitentes: One (1) night at Mountain Hotel in Penitentes, Double or triple, half board, beverages not included. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included. Mountain Camps: All nights of the expedition at double tents or dormitory dome ( 4 or 8 persons) , Full Board.

All meals are included during the approaching, at Base Camp and high altitude camps. Meals are prepared daily by the cooks. Our diet include, among other things, fresh fruit, meat, chicken, vegetables, fresh eggs, bread and other. Our meals are energy balanced with all your body requires for the ascent. We are also are prepared to elaborate special meals, like vegetarian, celiac and other kinds.

There is permanent communication through VHF, UHF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps, mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This guarantees safety and organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one. We also offer an e-mail service in Plaza de Mulas at reasonable costs.

We take your equipment (30 kg/person) from Puente del Inca to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp) back and forth. Our “responsibility and confidence service” means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes. We own our tame mules and the “arrieros” are experimented in the mountain.

The dining domes are completely equiped with tables, chairs, dishes and electricity, to provide the highest comfort and quality services. You will be attended by our Camp Team, in charge of preparing meals and of offering an excepcional service with a friendly treatment.

We have medical kits at base camps that include all regular medicines and oximeters, oxygen tubes and hyperbaric chambers exclusively for our clients in ready to solve all kinds of problems. The guides also carry a medical kit for high camps. We have access to rangers, rescue teams, police, professionals medicine doctors and medical institutes specializing in mountain accidents, who are immediately put on alert and get ready whenever they are required by INKA Expediciones.

We provide our clients with the best mountain tents available. Also we have exclusive dormitory tents for 4 or 8 persons, with bunk beds, electric light and carpet. We have private bathroom for our clients, toilettes at Confluencia Camp and letrines at Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. We also offered hot water baths at convenient prices.

The porter is in charge of helping the group with the extra weight the group equipment represents. Our programmed expeditions includes the carry of double tents and common equipment. This is to avoid extra unnecessary efforts so you can preserve your energy, for the day you reach the summit. If you need a personal porter you can pay one as an additional.

Assistance in the obtainment of Aconcagua Provincial Park entrance permits. The Aconcagua is a reserved area, managed by the Government of the Province of Mendoza. To be able to enter the park one must obtain a permit, for trekking or for ascending to the summit. You will be personally assisted in this procedure at our sales office. The permit cost is not included in our services.

Facility for the deposit and care of equipment. A person in charge of the camp supervises your equipment while you ascend. Personal equipment reviews and advice for rental, if necessary

Required equipment list

Light underwear. Long underwear.
Underwear and turtleneck. Polypropylene or capilene, cotton is not recommended. Pile lining.
Jacket or sweatshirt.
Trousers with pile lining. Side zippers are recommended to guarantee comfort and ventilation.
Warm jacket. Down or thinsulate, with a hood, expedition type, it must be comfortable to wear over other clothes.
Waterproof jacket / transpirable. It must have a hood. Suggested: Gore-Tex.
Waterproof trousers / transpirable. Suggested: Gore-Tex. We recommend side zippers to guarantee comfort and ventilation.

Climbing Helmet. Compulsory use.
Ice axe: Light ice axe. The size is important: if you are 1.7 mts, use a 60 cm tool; 1.7 to 1.9 mts, use a 65 cm tool; if you are more than 1.9 mts, use a 70 cm tool.
Crampons. We recommend 12 point crampons. Not Footfangs or Simond Scorpions or Grivel Rambo.
Ski poles. One pair of telescopic or collapsible, optional.

Large duffel bag: Big enough to be able to transport all your equipment.
Safety lock.
Small duffel bag: To store excess equipment at the hotel.
Plastic bags. For pack clothes and keep dry.
Clothes for the journey.
Hygiene bag.
Photographic equipment. Optional

A private expedition is run exclusively for you, your own families or friends and also you can choose the departure date.

At INKA we have pre-set programs with the same itinerary and services of programmed expeditions.Departure dates: you or your group choose the best date according to convenience.Itinerary: You can choose our pre-set program (recommended) or propose one as programs. We advise you according to our experience to see if it is feasible to perform so you can reach the summit.The group: The number of members per expedition can be from 1 to 12 peopleServices: We have the best professional guides and the best infrastructure in Aconcagua. Transportation, lodging, food … no need to worry about anything … just enjoy and get ready for an unforgettable experience.

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