Just bought my first GW several weeks ago. First project to do is replace timing belts. Never done this before, but I knew if I was careful and watched the How-To-Video's on this site and others I could do it. T marks, pulley marks line up and marked crank pulley with paint on block. Being under tension when I took off right belt of course pulley moved inward 2" to 3". I had to take that pulley off anyway to replace inner timing cover that was broke. After replacing cover put pulley back on and by hand turned it back in alignment with case mark and held it in place with a wrench and tie strap to frame while putting new belt on. Belt on lined up. But the left is giving me a little trouble. I can't get the marks lined up. When pulley and case marks are dead on like right side the belt will not go on pulley. The only way belt will slide on pulley is if the pulley mark is either a little above or below the case mark. I've had this belt on and off many times trying to get in right, but same results. When the belt is on pulley the marks don't line I've turn engine over time and time again by hand feeling for any interference what so ever. It turns over smooth and no interference that I can tell. So should try to start it and see if she'll fire up? I've read horror stories of GW owners who think everything is good after replacing t/belts and crank engine and end up bending valves, etc. because marks were to far off. Don't want this to happen Just looking for some info and advice from GW owners who at this point know a lot more about this type of thing than I do. I'll post some pics later so you can see what I'm talking. Im sure that will help.
thanks
winger1000

Is the tension released on the tension pulley? Someone had a method where you use welding clamps on the cam pulleys to hold them in place. I have done this job twice and it wasn't too bad but those pulleys do seem to like to move around. Make sure you rotate the engine by hand before replacing the plugs and starting it!

Would you consider that it is 1/2 tooth off and cannot be set exactly on the mark?
This is also looking straight inline with the marks and the mark on the flywheel is at #1 TDC.?

It is possible the casting marks are off a little or the head was restored and now is a few thousands closer to the block...
If all seems good,personally,I'd set the cam as close to the mark coming up to it.Not after it.
Set the tension and crank it over a few times and re-check.

The engine will tick(bend) a valve when it is 3 teeth off at the cam....I runs fair at 1 tooth off and poorly at 2 teeth off 1/2 tooth will have just a minor affect on the valve dwell angle(scavenge cycle).Minor but there.

Thanks for all the feedback. Here is some pics of how everything is lined up right now. T mark good, right pulley on the mark, and left pulley a half a tooth or so off. Turn over engine again several times and it felt fine no interference. So I took a deep breath and and hit the starter button and it fired right up. Can't let it run long because radiator is not mounted. Had the points cover off and it was arching a little and not running the best. If I could of let run longer It might of starting running better once it got warmed up. But I think the left pulley mark is still to far off and I think the marks are going to have to closer to run better.

It's either the one you've got it on or the one right next to it. Move it one tooth over and see if it runs any better. I know it's a pain in the butt but you might want to put the radiator back in to run it warmed up. It almost looks like the pulley has slipped a little. Are these held in place by a spline or a half-moon key-way? Let's face it, A big part of the reason we own these old bikes is that we like wrenching on them..

Here's something to look at...I searched for pictures like yours and saw that the left casting mark was in a different position as yours...I don't think you have any problem at all and your setting is fine.It appears that the mark should be straight across from the rib....

Thanks virgil for pics. Like the old saying-should of,could of,would of. IF I had just marked both pulleys position to case position with a tab of paint like I did the crank pulley before removing old belts I wouldn't be going through this oh well lesson learned. The right inner belt cover is not the original one. Its a used one that I got from another GW owner. The original was broke in half from the bike going down on its right side sometime in years past. So I didn't have a mark on that side to begin with. I just lined up everthing else and thought I would be good. And when the new belts, mainly the left belt just didn't slip right on the pulley like it was supposed to(I had to move it out of line from the mark to get it on) In the process of putting the radiator back on so I can get it up to operating temp and see how it runs and tinker with the marks some more if I need to.

This is where my marks are and where I'll leave them. I'm with that. As you can see the left pulley mark is just tad below the mark. If I did it above the mark it would further off the mark, so I hope this will be ok. Put eveything back on frt. covers, radiator and let it run up to operating temp. Cooling fan came on once it got up to temp Once warmed up bike idles good, but when I give it some throttle it feels sluggish and it seems rpms don't drop back down as quick as it should. All pipes are hot. I'm sure the problem is in the carbs not the timing marks and they need to be removed and gone through a clean thoroughly. I'm also going check valves and adjust if needed also.