I just recently completed a full stainless exhaust, I found a rare S&S header for the A20 in my 86 Accord hatch, I have the entire thing documented from the header all the way to the muffler, I'll just link it as to not waste bandwidth and have to resize 70 pictures

lets see some of your custom setups, I did all the fabricating on mine and was fortunate enough to have good friends do all the welding after I made the parts, I'll be glad to get this project done so I can hear what it sounds like

well I'm going to try and put up all my pics again on the setup, this is one project out of many so far. Bear with me as it may take a while to sort through all of them and have everything up, and captioned over again. UI have to get the old brain working and try to remember all of this.

Basically this started with being able to get a hold of one of the last S&S headers for the A20 out of the factory before they closed. At some point I had been in a hurry and had a cheap exhaust put on my a local muffler shop, as a temporarily fix,the fix needed a lot of fixing to fix the birdcrap welds and leaking pipes, more on that later, basically to start this, I just ripped everything off to the head. This boat anchor was the first thing to go.

this is what came in the kit, I don't have a converter, and I hate the ball and socket joints, so this is what the first modification involved. Before I go any further I want to thank the people who helped me on the welds, I did all the fabrication, but Bobby Brock,Melody Cooper, and David Maule did all my welding, thanks for the help!! Bobby is now in remission from "terminal' cancer, I guess they forgot to tell him that it was terminal.

the first thing to go were the useless air injection ports and egr ports on the header, A piece of cold roller steel welded up over them took care of that

I didn't want to use the ball and socket that came with it, but I needed a connection flange to be able to put the system together, the header came with a nice heavy flange, and I knew somewhere out there, I still had the matching converter flange, after a couple days of digging I found it. This would allow me to use a factory doughnut gasket.

this is the factory converter flange, you can see the wonderful welds the muffler shop did, they even threw in some mig wire for free. Obviously this needs to be fixed.

The main issue is the inner diameter of the flange is much smaller then the S&S pipes, the first thing I did was cut off everything that didn't look like flange, put the entire thing in the lathe and bore it out to a matching diameter, I'm not sure what they made this flange with,but it's some seriously hard stuff, I went through two carbide bits boring it out.

the header hanging on the engine, ignore some of the mess on the engine, I was still sorting out a lot of stuff.

clearance is a little tight, mainly because there are two motor mounts for either fuel injection or carburated, and they only sell the fuel injection mount now for both, I fixed this issue, but that's a later thread.

This is the main clearance issue I ran into, the collector hitting the cross member, I ended up grinding off the lip on the edge of the cross member, spot welding on a piece of tube hammered over the sharp edge, then welding in a reinforcement plate in the center

I seem to be missing the picture of the finished cross member, I'm going to take a break anyway,then I'll post it later

thanks,there's lots more I just haven't had time to re upload everything yet, the cherry bomb is just a placeholder to keep the system in place, I made my own muffler from scratch, it held the pipes in alignment while I was putting everything up

here are a few of the pipes, I didn't have any options on a system other then making one from scratch, there is nothing made except possibly the pacesetter, and it's not stainless. The only headers made were the DC sports one, which is very hard to fine even used and is no longer made, the S&S who are now of course out of business, a pacesetter one, which is very poorly made, and an OBX knock off of the S&S, it's stainless, but from what I've seen of pictures there are quality issues, the only long tube one left is the OBX. This one will get coated as soon as I get the car running if not sooner.

this is the exhaust tip, I moved it to the side under the rear bumper, ignore the bumper cover, I haven't even had time to think about painting it yet, I was very grateful a friend of mine found a rear hatch bumper cover in good shape, this required a 300 mile road trip to go pick it up, well to visit too of course, The tip is an old school Magnaflow, I found one in an old catalog, and had about given up finding one that still existed, I lucked out and some guy on ebay had had one sitting on a warehouse shelf for 15 years!! got it for 20 bucks, I think they were originally listed for almost 100, it's all stainless, you have to love old yellowed plastic packages containing old school goodies. I cut the height of the heat shield down by about half, once the bumper is black again, it will blend in. it's also under the lower curve of the bumper cover.

this is the main muffler hanger and a second hanger I made at the back that works off of the heat shield, I reinforced the heat shield and added the hanger near a junction where it bolted to the car. The asbestos fabric hangers will get replaced with stainless strap for more durability. The main muffler hanger is made from aluminum, it used to hold up the cherry bomb at the back of the car, I flipped one bracket around and reversed it and it worked perfectly. it's designed to use a stainless hose clamp to hold the muffler.

The muffler is completely stainless,other then the end caps, they are so heavy they will outlast the car, muffler body is perforated stainless mesh, the outside is stainless sheet rolled to fit the end caps. I used special stainless steel wool from steelwooldirect.com , It's the same thing Borla uses. I will be glad to get this thing running, it's going to sound nice with the big SU's and the slight lope from the Delta stage 2 cam

has anyone tried the 360 degree band clamps for sealing the muffler to the system? I didn't want to weld the muffler in to have a diss assembly point in the system, I've heard they seal well, but I haven't tried them before, these ones are designed to fit over a flared 2 inch pipe and then the clamp has two bolts to tighten it up, looking at my muffler clamp above, I think it's time for some bead blasting and a repaint