Get a taste of Portugese cuisine at South Side Steel

One of the pleasures of dining at South Side Steel is looking out from a table by the large windows of this second-floor restaurant, watching life on Bethlehem's Fourth Street go by.

From that bird's-eye view, perspective changes and it's easier, for a short time, perhaps, to put the rush of life on hold and concentrate on savoring food and conversation.

There were other pleasures, too, when I visited the eatery recently  namely the food, especially the cheesecake (more on that later), and an amiable, interesting server who was eager to please.

South Side Steel, which opened in September, is sleek and contemporary. The windows, along with the high ceiling that exposes open web steel joists, make the dining room light and airy. Golden oak trim and a polished oak floor underscore the brightness. Blue accents  scarves trimming the windows and cloth napkins on white and beige tablecloths  add notes of cool serenity.

The fare is eclectic. There's a preponderance of seafood, and Portuguese cuisine seems to be a specialty, since there are a handful of these dishes, including ''bacalhau grelhado'' (grilled cod with boiled potatoes in onion, garlic and olive oil) and ''bacalhau a braz'' (cod sauteed with shoestring potatoes, onions and eggs).

Several continental-style standbys are available as well: shrimp scampi, veal Oscar and filet mignon or New York strip steak in demiglace with brandied mushrooms.

For starters, I sampled the chef's lobster bisque  a thick, heavy rendition of the crustacean's essence, but disappointingly lukewarm.

A companion's ''lulas grelhadas,'' or grilled calamari, was more successful. The calamari, topped with a savory and delectable garlic butter sauce, was served in pieces shaped like wide spear points, rather than rings; it had the least chewy texture I've experienced in these sea creatures. Partnered with a salad of mixed greens and Belgian endive that served as appropriate counterpoint, the flavors of this appetizer were excellent.

Dinner salads were standard fare combinations of mostly greens, including baby spinach, with red onion and shredded carrots. The two dressings we sampled, however, were anything but standard: cucumber wasabi and mango vinaigrette. The former was fresh and zippy and the latter added clear tropical fruitiness to the greens.

A Portuguese dish, ''alentajana'' or marinated pork and clams, offered change-of-pace flavor. Stew-like, the pork pieces and clams  along with cubed potatoes  that had marinated in paprika, garlic and oil, were served in a complex broth with deeply layered flavor. Pickled carrots, cauliflower, hot pepper, olives and red pepper enhanced the complexities of this dish.

Grilled salmon was tender, almost sweet, and wonderfully buttery. I chose housemade barbecue sauce to finish the fish, and its smoky thickness was a good balance. Roasted and seasoned potatoes were excellent, and a vegetable medley of cauliflower, carrots and broccoli, prepared without seasoning or fat, was standard fare.

Thumbs up for one of the evening's specials  Chilean sea bass. The mild fish, browned and crusted from cooking, was served atop pesto risotto and spinach, which provided rich counterpoint.

Desserts at South Side Steel are made in the restaurant's kitchen. I passed over tiramisu, flan and toasted almond cake in favor of cheesecake, because its reputation had already been established by a reader's recommendation. This excellent specimen of New York-style cheesecake made me wonder how many adjectives could be conjured up to attempt to convey in writing what can really only be experienced.

I came up with decadent, dense, heavy, rich, luscious, smooth and creamy. Seven and counting. Now I'm thinking about counting cheesecake adjectives, instead of sheep, at night. That should make for some pretty sweet dreams.

We were three for dinner, but in keeping with established review style, dinner for two  including tax, tip and nonalcoholic beverages  totaled $66.

Susan Gottshall is a freelance restaurant reviewer for Go Guide. Gottshall, who tells it like it is, attempts to remain anonymous during restaurant visits. All meals are paid for by The Morning Call.