Shorty brake - definitely a difference (you get more leverage on the outside of the lever and since it's shorter, easier to get that leverage with one or two fingers). I would also argue that the same happens with the clutch (I believe that the "standard" size Pazzo/CRG are actually shorter than stock so the same also applies). . .They look way better than stock, but they do also have a valid purpose. . .

Pazzo and CRG are pretty much on par. I'd say take a look at ASVs, they're pretty sweet and they're pretty much one of the originators. I've seen HP levers on a customer's bike, never really rode with 'em, but they look pretty sweet.

TBH, shorts are shorts and longs are longs... it's pretty much splitting hairs so long as you get a set of levers from a reputable company it just boils down to which you think look the nicest.

I like the feel better, the pazzos have a squareness feel to them. The hp feels more round, adjust better, look cooler to me. Dont get me wrong I love pazzo to, mg buddy sells them and I get them at cost so I always use them. Just nice to try something different

And why did you guys change from the stock? Pure looks? Or is the feel really exist? Or more in your mind?Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App

Some of the higher end brake and clutch levers use ball bearings in their pivots rather than brass or steel bushings, that the OEM set use. They're inherently smoother than stock, but it depends on how sensitive you are to lever feel. Personally, I think they work best as a package, when you replace your stock brake lines (with kevlar or stainless), levers and of course brake fluid, which I change every few months anyway. The stock pads are plenty powerful for the street. But they do seem to kick off a lot of dust. I haven't addressed the brakes on my S1 yet. I'm still building up enough milage to get its 600-mi. service completed. But, then I'll start "tearing into it," probably starting at the brakes, then suspension, wheels, etc.

Keep in mind, if your bike has ABS (most do), some of the "universal levers will not work." If you're replacing the brake lines (highly recommended, even more so than replacing the levers and usually a bit less expensive), make sure you get a kit marked ABS or a kit market non-ABS, depending on your bike. It's easy to miss that distinction, especially if the dealer you're buying from only sells the kit for non-abs or the abs equipped bike. If in doubt call the vendor before ordering. .

Keep in mind an OEM brake lever alone has a $300 MSRP from the dealer. You can find it slightly (or in some cases, incredibly) cheaper elsewhere. Unfortunately, it appears a lot of 2010-2012 bike have hit the deck, but have done so on only one side, etc. So, I've seen quite a few right side or left side levers being sold by unfortunate S1 owners, as of late. But, if you need an OEM brake or clutch lever and you spy one on eBay, jump on it. They go quickly. On the other hand, if your bike has tipped over from a standstill or you need replacement levers for other a different reason, you're better off going with aftermarket units, from a functional and financial standpoint.

Aftermarket levers higher quality, usually provide more adjustability, and, yes, they do look cool. But, I can feel the difference between a a stock lever and an aftermarket/upgraded lever. It's money well spent. But, it's not exactly required money. If your levers are fine, than from a performance standpoint you're better off saving up for a set of wheels or an Ohlins fork cartridge (for your OEM forks), or even brake lines.

Some of the higher end brake and clutch levers use ball bearings in their pivots rather than brass or steel bushings, that the OEM set use. They're inherently smoother than stock, but it depends on how sensitive you are to lever feel. Personally, I think they work best as a package, when you replace your stock brake lines (with kevlar or stainless), levers and of course brake fluid, which I change every few months anyway. The stock pads are plenty powerful for the street. But they do seem to kick off a lot of dust. I haven't addressed the brakes on my S1 yet. I'm still building up enough milage to get its 600-mi. service completed. But, then I'll start "tearing into it," probably starting at the brakes, then suspension, wheels, etc.

Keep in mind, if your bike has ABS (most do), some of the "universal levers will not work." If you're replacing the brake lines (highly recommended, even more so than replacing the levers and usually a bit less expensive), make sure you get a kit marked ABS or a kit market non-ABS, depending on your bike. It's easy to miss that distinction, especially if the dealer you're buying from only sells the kit for non-abs or the abs equipped bike. If in doubt call the vendor before ordering. .

Keep in mind an OEM brake lever alone has a $300 MSRP from the dealer. You can find it slightly (or in some cases, incredibly) cheaper elsewhere. Unfortunately, it appears a lot of 2010-2012 bike have hit the deck, but have done so on only one side, etc. So, I've seen quite a few right side or left side levers being sold by unfortunate S1 owners, as of late. But, if you need an OEM brake or clutch lever and you spy one on eBay, jump on it. They go quickly. On the other hand, if your bike has tipped over from a standstill or you need replacement levers for other a different reason, you're better off going with aftermarket units, from a functional and financial standpoint.

Aftermarket levers higher quality, usually provide more adjustability, and, yes, they do look cool. But, I can feel the difference between a a stock lever and an aftermarket/upgraded lever. It's money well spent. But, it's not exactly required money. If your levers are fine, than from a performance standpoint you're better off saving up for a set of wheels or an Ohlins fork cartridge (for your OEM forks), or even brake lines.

That's my $0.02.

Ride safe all,
Wolfgang

Thanks for the great info Wolfgang!

Which brings up another question. I didn't check. Does the HP4 have braided lines? Steel?