FOOD

FOOD; From Sauce to Side Dish, Chestnuts Aren't Just for Roasting

By MOIRA HODGSON

Published: November 14, 1998

FRESH chestnuts come into the market in late fall, imported from Italy. Yet chestnut woods once covered the eastern United States from southern Maine to southwestern Florida in one direction to eastern Arkansas in the other.

By 1940, however, almost all the chestnut trees had disappeared. The historian Waverley Root said he believes that saplings imported from the Far East to Long Island in 1904 carried a fungus that ate into the bark of the chestnut trees. It proved fatal to the species, which had never been exposed to it before. No one realized until too late how deadly the fungus was, and the trees died.

In Europe, chestnut trees continue to thrive, particularly in Italy and France where chestnuts are used as a side dish with meat, as a dessert and sometimes made into flour. Chestnuts are mixed with red cabbage or brussels sprouts, served as a sweet or savory puree, used as stuffing and even in sauces for pasta.

Nothing beats the taste of fresh chestnuts, but they are a nuisance to peel. Peeled vacuum-packed chestnuts are closest to the fresh ones. Whole unsweetened canned chestnuts can also be used, although they are heavier and not as good.

Dried chestnuts, which must be soaked overnight, are superior both in texture and taste to those in the can. Fresh chestnuts can be frozen up to three months.

To end a meal over the holidays, I love candied chestnuts (marrons glaces). They are sold in tins imported from France and are quite expensive but delicious.

Chicken Breasts

With Chestnuts

Total time:

1 hour

3/4ounce package dried porcini mushrooms

12fresh chestnuts

2whole chicken breasts, on the bone

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper

2tablespoons safflower oil

1medium onion, chopped

1cup strong chicken or veal stock

3/4cup dry Marsala

1tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves

2portobello mushrooms

3tablespoons unsalted butter

1pound pappardelle.

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Soak the porcini in warm water to cover for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the chestnuts. Score their skins with a knife, put them in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring the water to a boil. Once it has boiled, turn off the heat but leave the chestnuts in the water. Wearing rubber gloves, remove two or three at a time and peel their skins and shells while they are still hot. Chop the chestnuts coarsely.

2. Cut the chicken breasts in half and season them with salt and pepper. Heat the safflower oil in a skillet and brown the chicken breasts on all sides. Pour all but one tablespoon of fat from the pan. Put the chicken breasts in a baking dish and roast them in the oven for 20 minutes, or until they are cooked. Keep them warm.

3. Add the onions to the pan and cook them until they are soft. Add the chestnuts, stock, Marsala and rosemary and bring them to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer gently. Meanwhile, chop and add the porcini with its soaking liquid. Cook, uncovered, for 10 to 20 minutes, until the chestnuts are tender (time varies according to the size and age of the chestnuts). If the sauce is too thin, turn up the heat and boil it down. It should coat the back of a spoon.

4. Meanwhile, rinse the portobellos, remove the stems and cut the caps in one-inch pieces. Heat two tablespoons of the butter and cook them until they are almost crisp. Cook the pappardelle in boiling salted water until al dente.

5. Drain the pappardelle and toss it with the remaining tablespoon of butter. Divide it into four servings and put the chicken breasts on top. Spoon the sauce over the chicken breasts, then add the portobellos and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Chestnuts With Apples

And Red Cabbage

Total time:

45 minutes

1pound chestnuts

1medium onion

2tablespoons unsalted butter

1small red cabbage, shredded

Chicken stock to cover (about 1/2 cup)

1/2cup dry white wine

1cup apple cider

2medium-size tart apples, peeled and cut into quarter-inch wedges

1to 2 tablespoons sherry or balsamic vinegar

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

1. Prepare the chestnuts. Score their skins with a knife, put them in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring the water to a boil. Once it is boiled, turn off the heat but leave the chestnuts in the water. Wearing rubber gloves, remove two or three at a time and peel off their skins and shells while they are still hot. Chop them coarsely.

2. Meanwhile, soften the onion in the butter. Add the cabbage and cook until it starts to get soft. Add the chicken stock, wine and cider and bring to a boil. Turn down and add the chestnuts, apples, vinegar, salt and pepper. Continue to cook until the cabbage is very soft and the chestnuts are tender (about 15 minutes). If you need more liquid, use chicken stock used for the chestnuts.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Chestnut Puree

Total time:

1 hour

1pound chestnuts

1 1/2cups chicken, veal or turkey stock

2tablespoons Marsala, Madeira or port

4tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste.

1. Prepare the chestnuts. Score their skins with a knife, put them in a saucepan and cover them with water. Bring the water to a boil. Once it is boiled, turn off the heat but leave the chestnuts in the water. Wearing rubber gloves, remove two or three at a time and peel off their skins and shells while they are still hot.

2. Put the chestnuts in a large saucepan with the stock and Marsala. Cover, bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer until the chestnuts are soft -- for 20 to 45 minutes, depending on their age and size.

3. Put the chestnuts in a blender and process until smooth. Add the butter and mix well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.