Tuesday, April 3, 2007

The definitive manual on finding the best shades for your face.You probably have a drawerful of discarded eyewear that never quite worked on you. But once you learn how to match the shape of the frames to the shape of your face, your only worry will be finding the time to wear them all.

CREDITS: Sunglasses by Starck Eyes. Shirt by Versace.Photo: KT Auleta

Round face: Full cheeks and a curved jawline call for frames with a contrasting angular shape. Boxy plastic or metal pairs in a size that won’t overtake your face work equally well—just make sure the corners are slightly rounded, not sharp, or you’ll look like you’re channeling Neo in The Matrix.

Triangular face: If you have a broad forehead and a narrow chin, choose sunglasses that mimic your bone structure. Light metal frames that are wider on the top than on the bottom, like aviators, are ideal. Gradient lenses will enhance the flattering effect—boldly tinted ones will not.

Oval face: If your visage is long and lean, opt for frames that accentuate its width. Heavy plastic wraparounds and sunglasses with oversize, geometric lenses are on the list of styles that balance oblong features nicely. To be avoided at all costs: delicate, John Lennon–style frames.

Light. On second thoughts, ultra-light.This adjective best defines the UCB Women collection for the next Spring Summer season. It’s a question of fabrics and weights. Obviously. But also, and perhaps above all, of content and style, because lightness and freshness is the way of life the collection exudes.Severity with grace, fuss-free glamour, trendy without exaggeration, natural elegance.

Code Breaking. The rules have changed, but the elegance is the same. White and an urban tennis look achieved through loose frilly blouses and trousers in various lengths; featherweight cabled or ribbed mini pullovers; close-fitting men’s shirts and linear short jackets. The polka-dot dresses or sporty shirtwaisters under trench coats or canvas duffle coats come straight from the VIPs’ enclosure.

Mistaken Identity. Girl soldiers straight from the tailor’s. The army style goes off duty. Regulation safari and bomber jackets, blouses and blazers with high-fashion proportions. Cargo trousers and colonial shorts obey the same orders. Around these are light empire-line dresses, lingerie tops, crumpled-effect knits and jungle patterns.

Update from South America. The summer heats up to a South-American beat. Striped denim, flowers and samba colours, tango black and red, white frills, siesta lace. A South American journey around clothes hangers: petticoat skirts and jazz pants, puff sleeves, layered tops and twirling dresses. For muchachas the world over.

Monday, April 2, 2007

An irresistible radical chic charmer. This is the United Colors of Benetton man next summer: full of charisma and sophistication, obvious elegance and apparent informality. A mixture for discerning souls who shun banality. Style and mood write the plot for such sophistication, while fabrics, yarns, details and combinations form the soundtrack of this undeniable glamour.

Hamptons. Canons of British elegance in white and mid-grey. Blazers and suits can be worn with a free choice of long or knee-length trousers. Shirts worn with a tie, textured sweaters and tennis shirts to wear with rather more informal windcheaters with a safari jacket-look or an immaculate duffle coat.

The Friday Club. A weekend look for the week in town: dressing down with style. Prince of Wales check jackets and trousers, pinstripes and denim worn with white, blue or classic-stripe shirts. As well as wide-striped knits and three-button vest tops under simple bomber jackets or trench coats.

Time to Shine. Its time for sport and a look halfway between the fans and the players. Polo shirts and rugby stripes – with feminine versions – badge-emblazoned club blazers, trousers from the terraces and game-playing Bermuda shorts. Dressing in layers is a real winner: T-shirt, faded shirt, pullover and, on top of everything, a short canvas jacket. Linen, cotton, gabardine and denim.

PARIS, January 23, 2007 – The genius of Karl Lagerfeld is his way of whacking a topical spin into every couture collection without ever compromising the ineffable core of Chanel. This time, he had a phalanx of men roll out a giant double-C rug, and struck up the band—Cat Power, who laid into some punked-up Stones and Smokey Robinson classics. So it was with the opening volley of clothes—sixties-but-modern supershort coat-dresses and even more abbreviated jackets, all striding out on a base of leggy black tights.

His ability to compress variety into those rigorously tiny, neat silhouettes was something to behold. There was a black one with patent collar, cuffs, and pocket flaps. A navy military pea coat had bandbox-smart striped edgings. Yet more toppers with delicious sproutings of feathers or fragile tulle bows followed, until out came a gorgeous little raggedy-edged dress with a tight waist and puffed-out skirt.

Any other designer might have been satisfied to stop there, but Lagerfeld had evening to deal with. There, he changed gear, flipping between pristine military mess jackets over long, sheer-net skirts and silvery sequined streaks of vertical ribbon, let loose in the hem to whip around, car wash-style. If that gave a more random feel to the show’s second half, well, it also succeeded in covering all occasions (and age requirements). To produce a show of this vast range and handiwork takes an army. To that point, Lagerfeld had a nice finale up his sleeve. At the end, a curtain drew back to reveal the massed Chanel workers: models, atelier staff, studio designers, and house ambassador Amanda Harlech, who all followed Lagerfeld out to share the applause.

CABBEEN, the 35-year-old men＇s clothing designer who is considered one of the most influential creators of men＇s fashion in Mainland China will launch his innovative label, Cabbeen, in the U.S. on Saturday, February 3 at 8 p.m. during New York Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This marks the first time a collection and label from Mainland China is debuting at the U. S. shows; it highlights the role Cabbeen has played as an innovator in cutting-edge Chinese fashion itself and in introducing its influence to the U.S. He is doing this in a way that is both authentically Chinese - yet also represents an innovative take on a fashion influence that has long been utilized in world-wide fashion by those who are not Chinese. Cabbeen also brings a style of fashion showmanship that is grand (his shows in China have included 100 top models). In China, his designs are regularly worn by movie stars and artists.

CABBEEN＇s Fall 2007 New York debut will focus on "classic" CABBEEN. This means season-less fabrics; as Cabbeen knows, what works in China weather- and travel-wise translates beautifully here. The collection features suits, jackets, shirts and jeans decorated with Cabbeen＇s signature embroidery as well as evoking a military influence that is equally reflective of Cabbeen＇s fashion focus. The clothes, in a palette of black, white and gray accented by deep reds and yellows, will be paired with the accessories for which Cabbeen is also known - ultra-hip sneakers; silk scarves that are knotted and tied to resemble cool cravats; and his famous "gaudy" ties.

ACCESSORIES Shoes: black vinyl or gold leather boots with studs, vinyl ankle boots with “ diamonds”, shiny pumps with studs, high gold platforms. Vinyl boots with coloured satin ribbons.Bags: oversized or mini, made of leather or vinyl in black or gold, with and without studs.Belts: numerous and important, maxi or mini, made of shiny and matte vinyl, embellished with studs or “ diamonds”, in black or gold, making a strong impact.Coloured lycra stockings.

JEWELS Important use of “ Diamonds” for earrings, necklaces and bracelets, also nickel chains and studs.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

SETTING The endless North American plains and New Mexico desert; via Arizona, Nevada and the Dakotas, as far North as the Subarctic.

INSPIRATION

American Indians with their virility and good looks, men of natural beauty whose bodies, sculpted by outdoor activities, close to nature.

CONTRASTS

An Indian tradition mixed with modernity, handcrafted and ancient-style natural fabrics with sports materials of tracksuit trousers and jackets or bright lycra colored swimwear. The contrast of topstitched and decorated suede loafers worn with logoed gym socks.

SPORTS Those played by American college teams - baseball, rugby, basketball. The Sports League is introduced, made up of historic Indian tribes who wear sweatshirts with suede fringe, while terry cloth head and wristbands are replaced by the beads and feathers of Indian Chiefs. Suede legwarmers are worn over the sneakers.

COLOURS Beige natural and cognac, orange, yellow and shocking pink.

FABRICS Suede, denim, cotton, velour.

SHAPES Larger volumes with echoes of the eighties, such as oversized t-shirts and a rethink of oversized pants and shorts.

ACCESSORIES Oversized shoulder bags with fringe and beads, suede boots and loafers and sneakers. Belts with a themed buckle of eagles and Apache Indians.

JEWELERY Ankle and wristbands in handmade metal. Pendants with Indian crosses, animal teeth, feathers and chronographs.