Got a late start, but the friendly folks ahead of us on the 4th pitch let us pass on through as they took a break and we got back to Bishop in time for a Whiskey Creek Works Burger.

The snow is still there all the way from Gem Lakes, but it's getting thin and you'll posthole into the talus as it softens up. A few small patches of snow on the route itself, but nothing you can't easily avoid. An ice axe is a good idea for the descent if you're coming down late in the day. Mosquitoes are still minimal, but hatching fast! Bring your bug juice.

Got a late start, but the friendly folks ahead of us on the 4th pitch let us pass on through as they took a break and we got back to Bishop in time for a Whiskey Creek Works Burger.

The snow is still there all the way from Gem Lakes, but it's getting thin and you'll posthole into the talus as it softens up. A few small patches of snow on the route itself, but nothing you can't easily avoid. An ice axe is a good idea for the descent if you're coming down late in the day. Mosquitoes are still minimal, but hatching fast! Bring your bug juice.

Got a late start, but the friendly folks ahead of us on the 4th pitch let us pass on through as they took a break and we got back to Bishop in time for a Whiskey Creek Works Burger.

The snow is still there all the way from Gem Lakes, but it's getting thin and you'll posthole into the talus as it softens up. A few small patches of snow on the route itself, but nothing you can't easily avoid. An ice axe is a good idea for the descent if you're coming down late in the day. Mosquitoes are still minimal, but hatching fast! Bring your bug juice.

Looks great ! From what I've read, the 5.8 pitch (offwidth / stemming big flakes) isn't as harsh as it first appears. What did you all think ?

This one was actually my first multi-pitch route ever about 5 years ago. We ended up soloing the upper half of the route on that trip. The route is very easy and not very sustained considering how impressive the Arete looks from below. The "5.8" pitch has one awkward move around a flake that's well protected and more liebacking/stemming than anything. There's no OW climbing involved anywhere on the route.

Here's a pic of my kids fishing Long lake about 2 weeks ago. Pretty sure that's Bear Creek Spire in the upper left. We did not go higher up, but I would bet the upper reaches of the basin are all snow for the most part and the gems and treasures were frozen. Hope this helps, been 2 weeks of warm weather since.

Vertigo soul wrote:Great photos Kathy! I don't know you, but your photos made my day. Brought back some great memories and some were just down right beautiful! Thanks for posting!

If you're talking about my June 09 Dade climb, it was about 11 hours round trip for me. Keep in mind that I'm on the slow side. I had pretty good snow conditions - hard enough to crampon up in the morning and just soft enough by the time I came down.

The Hourglass Couloir is a wonderful snow climb, but it would be hell without snow; so go while there's still snow or wait until next year.

Vertigo soul wrote:Great photos Kathy! I don't know you, but your photos made my day. Brought back some great memories and some were just down right beautiful! Thanks for posting!

If you're talking about my June 09 Dade climb, it was about 11 hours round trip for me. Keep in mind that I'm on the slow side. I had pretty good snow conditions - hard enough to crampon up in the morning and just soft enough by the time I came down.

The Hourglass Couloir is a wonderful snow climb, but it would be hell without snow; so go while there's still snow or wait until next year.

Sorry for the confusion, but Yes I was asking about your Dade climb. Thanks for the info and pics....I think i'll give this one a go tomorrow and see how long it takes me.