Stepping into a vintage dining car often gives you the feeling of stepping back in time, but that isn’t quite what happens when you enter the Little Depot Diner. It’s more like you’ve stepped into some bright and happy idealized version of the past, and you’re glad you’ve stumbled upon it.

Built in 1929 by the Worcester Lunch Car Company, this diner car was moved to its current location in 1950 where it has had a succession of owners, most recently Jim and Judy Miles who re-opened the diner just over a year ago.

A tiny place with no booths and just fourteen stools, waiting for a seat on the weekend looks highly probable. The interior is a warm yellow with the ceiling painted sky blue and accented with clouds. Just below the ceiling is a model train track that runs the length of the car. The black and white tiled floor, reproduction tin signs advertising Moxie, and a small shelf with courtesy books for those wishing to linger over their coffee complete the atmosphere. The background music, hit tunes from the 1930s and ’40s was perfect. (I wasn’t the only one humming along to Judy Garland singing “Zing Went the Strings of My Heart;” the cop on the stool next to me was, too.)

The owner and her sister Terry, wearing vintage-styled waitress dresses, greeted me with smiles and an immediate offer of coffee. When I mentioned this was my first visit, Terry gave me a “train ride” by blowing the whistle and making the little train run the length of its track. This honor is generally reserved for those ordering the All Aboard breakfast, which consists of two eggs, two bacon, two sausage, two pancakes, and homefries or baked beans. ($9)

The menu is small and straightforward, with all the usual diner fare, though I was sad to see they don’t offer waffles, one of my personal favorites. The counter was almost full with locals and regulars chatting, and every meal I saw go by looked generous and tasty. I decided on the little stack of pancakes (2 for $3.75) with a side of homefries ($1.50) and bacon ($2.50) The homefries were a bit bland, but the the bacon was terrific, crisp and plentiful, and the pancakes were large and dense. I opted to try the Special Butter, which turned out to be a brilliant decision. The maple caramel cinnamon butter, whipped together on site, was absolutely delicious on the pancakes.

The coffee is quite respectable, rich and fresh ground, and for those on the run, diner features The Honest Cup of Coffee, a self-serve station for take-out coffee at the bargain price of $1. (They are a cash only business, but there’s an ATM just around the corner.) If you want your breakfast to go as well, take out is available.

On weekdays, the diner serves both breakfast and lunch, open 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. On the weekend, they serve breakfast only and close at 12 p.m. The lunch specials sounded great, and there’s no doubt you’re in Massachusetts because one of the sandwiches offered is the infamous Fluffernutter.

The Little Depot Diner is a place that just plain makes you feel good. Even without the siren call of that luscious Special Butter luring me back, I’d still return and bring my friends. Welcoming and comfortable with tasty food at good prices, this car is on the right track.

6 Comments on “Breakfast With a Side of Cheer”

This place sound like a labor of love. I grew up in diners thanks to a father who supplied them with some of their raw ingredients.

I’m going to have to stop here when I’m up your way.

Thanks for the information.

#2KN said at 11:32 am on April 13th, 2009:

Penny, I’ll be honest; as an old school diner lover I was initially afraid it was going to be too “cutesy” for me, but really was pleasantly surprised by the great atmosphere and obvious hard work the owners had put into it.

Seems like Jim & Judy are getting it right and I hope they can continue to do so. The times I have been there, the food was good and the service friendly. I kind of wish they had earlier hours (like 6:00am) as I am an early person, even on the weekends. I also like the new “porch” they added to the kitchen end of the building. I need new photos for Diner Hotline (www.dinerhotline.com)

I grew up in Peabody and used to have breakfast there when I taught in Peabody. I could catch the Lowell St bus in front of the diner. Glad to see the diner is still in operation. when I was a kid (1940′s) there was a crossing guard who raised and lowered the gates on Central St. the railroad yard was very busy as the leather industry was in full swing then.

Looking for the recipe for carton,graton or the pork spread with 12 allspice berries in it. Used to eat it all the time for breakfast in Massachusetts. My friends mother used to make it and cook it over night. What a smell and the taste was even better. Can’t find it in Miami.

Leave a Reply

Welcome to North Shore Dish, your guide to restaurants and all things food related on the north shore!