Thursday, May 26, 2011

Just received this note from an inspired Zack Parke of Santa Cruz. Read on as he explains.

"About a month ago I came across this video on Black Diamonds' website of Kevin Jorgeson in the Buttermilks. In it, among other sweet lines, Kevin does what could be only the second ever ascent of the Transporter Room on the Grandpa Peabody boulder.

After watching that video I got pretty psyched about doing this climb, now that I know where it goes and some of the beta. I'd planned a trip out to the Buttermilks for last week, and made it a point to check out Transporter Room. On Thursday after I warmed up and surprised myself by wrapping up a couple of previously frustrating projects, I convinced my friends to bring pads down and check out the line. It looked good so I went for it, and got up on the first go.

The bottom was pretty straightforward, and includes the physical crux, a left hand cross. The top was a little weird as I didn't quite know exactly where on the slab to climb, so I kind of mini epic-ed for 15 minutes deciding which holds to use. Not too hard but definitely the mental crux for me.

Respect to Kevin for reviving this old line. Without his video I wouldn't even have been thinking about the climb.

Hopefully it will get more traffic!

Wish I was still there; everything's turning a beautiful green!
Cheers!
Zack Parke"

This ascent is all the more impressive as Zack (25) has been climbing only about four years, mostly in Yosemite, but has been mixing things up with a fair amount of bouldering. Zack climbed the line without any prior inspection or TR, but after looking at the video from Kevin Jorgeson's ascent, which turned out not to be the second after all (see comments below). As well as working as a bike messenger, Zack makes custom sewn gear for climbers including chalk bags, pads, packs and wall gear. UPDATE: Please see the very sad news in comment #4. Here are a few images from Zack's ascent:

i did not mean to downplay the efforts put forth, GOOD job. i was just shocked to hear it had not had a second ascent when i climbed it, are we sure about that? i had left a TR on it in 2009 for a week so others could enjoy it and someone jacked my rope and gear.

Hey Kevin,Ha ha ... Nice! That's good to hear. Maybe you've mentioned this and I forgot (hope not). It seemed likely, though by no means certain, to me (and also to Zack who wrote me, above) that the line might have been repeated before KJ's ascent!

Others could have done it too, but we'll have to either never know, or wait to hear from them!Cheers! See you soon.Wills

Hey there Buttermilkers - Have sad news to report that Zach was killed in a hit and run Tuesday morning in Santa Cruz: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wurz6S7EZkwSay a little something to the boulders and sagebrush up there above Bishop for him and the family and friends he was taken from. Drive slow, enjoy the land and embody compassion for all life. Take care, paul

Bishop Bouldering, 2nd Edition

"I got the Bishop Bouldering guide in the mail today. All I can say is WOW. Arguably the best looking guidebook I have ever seen. Almost a piece of art. Beautiful pictures, high quality construction -- truly awesome. Good job!" ... Tim Kemple, Pro Photographer.