Ok new to forum, I bought a 98 c5 low miles. Iíve bought headers, 3hp starter, gaskets, springs, 228r cam, going to port and polish heads, already have full exhaust n x pipe, new timing chain. Things Iím purchasing next ls7 clutch kit is that a good decision? High volume oil pump, 7.4 pushrods, headstuds, an I need to get a tuner?? Ok so open for suggestions and thoughts. Before I take it apart and install everything. Thank you

If you do the clutch, there are a bunch of "while I'm in there I might as well do.........."
Remote clutch bleeder
Inspect torque tupe bearings and couplers
Inspect halfshaft seals
Check ball joints
Replace rubber bushings with polyurethane
Replace slave cylinder and pilot bearing
Switch to Castrol SRF fluid
Thicker tunnel plate
Wrap all the lines with heat insulated tape
New O2 sensors
Polyurathane transmission mount
Those are some suggestions for when you just changing out your clutch.
Do a thorough search and you will find an endless mine of "what should I do next" topics.
Let the sickness begin.
Spaggsl

Ok new to forum, I bought a 98 c5 low miles. Iíve bought headers, 3hp starter, gaskets, springs, 228r cam, going to port and polish heads, already have full exhaust n x pipe, new timing chain. Things Iím purchasing next ls7 clutch kit is that a good decision? High volume oil pump, 7.4 pushrods, headstuds, an I need to get a tuner?? Ok so open for suggestions and thoughts. Before I take it apart and install everything. Thank you

Since you have a '98, tuning it yourself will not be easy. HPTuners and EFILive will only work with '99+ PCMs. And you will want to tune it after all of those mods.

From what I can tell, your mods are basically cam/heads/exhaust - is that correct? If so, then unless you plan on drag racing with slicks or drag radials, your stock clutch should hold up fine IMO. Keep us posted on your build!

From what I can tell, your mods are basically cam/heads/exhaust - is that correct? If so, then unless you plan on drag racing with slicks or drag radials, your stock clutch should hold up fine IMO. Keep us posted on your build!

ok sounds good this will save me time and money. Appreciate it, yes Iíll post when I start the work in a couple weeks.

As far as tuning, you should really consider finding a good dyno tuner in your area and discuss with them your goals with the car and how much HP you want to squeeze out of your combo vs. safety / reliability of the tune. They will get everything exact and perfect with fuel curves, timing, etc.

Another thing I would definitely replace is your valve springs and maybe consider rocker arms as well.

As far as tuning, you should really consider finding a good dyno tuner in your area and discuss with them your goals with the car and how much HP you want to squeeze out of your combo vs. safety / reliability of the tune. They will get everything exact and perfect with fuel curves, timing, etc.

Another thing I would definitely replace is your valve springs and maybe consider rocker arms as well.

If you're pulling the motor, it may make sense to go for a clutch. Depends. My guess is that with the cam and ported-polished heads the stock LS1 clutch will hold, but upgrading to an LS6 setup may make sense. While you're in there, new pilot bushing, new throw-out bearing, new slave cylinder, obviously -- but also don't forget the rubber prop shaft couplers and the prop shaft bearings (often called the torque tube couplers and bearings, also guibos I think.) At minimum, those rubber couplers may be hard and crappy simply from age if not miles; if the rest is fine, new OEM couplers may still be a good idea.

Also probably a reasonable time for a shifter swap if you want to do one.

Mounts are not available OEM. They, too, may be a bit meh due to age, but I bet they're still fine.

Other than that ... depending on the power level you eventually want, and how you drive, it's a hell of a lot easier to install stuff like a trans/diff brace with the driveline dropped down.

If you're pulling the motor, it may make sense to go for a clutch. Depends. My guess is that with the cam and ported-polished heads the stock LS1 clutch will hold, but upgrading to an LS6 setup may make sense. While you're in there, new pilot bushing, new throw-out bearing, new slave cylinder, obviously -- but also don't forget the rubber prop shaft couplers and the prop shaft bearings (often called the torque tube couplers and bearings, also guibos I think.) At minimum, those rubber couplers may be hard and crappy simply from age if not miles; if the rest is fine, new OEM couplers may still be a good idea.

Also probably a reasonable time for a shifter swap if you want to do one.

Mounts are not available OEM. They, too, may be a bit meh due to age, but I bet they're still fine.

Other than that ... depending on the power level you eventually want, and how you drive, it's a hell of a lot easier to install stuff like a trans/diff brace with the driveline dropped down.

personally I wouldn't even consider a stock clutch if you plan to race the car, spend a little more and get something that won't give you shifting problems... my c5z clutch wouldn't shift right at wot when the car was stock, the more power you add the worse it gets... it will technically hold the power fine but the issue is when you shift, now if all of your racing consists of single gear pulls then you would probably be ok lol

I put an LS7 clutch in my C5 and to be perfectly honest I didn't like it. If you do go that route definitely investigate putting a spacer behind the slave cylinder because that installed height is different.

I now have a car with an LS7 and obviously an LS7 clutch, and I'm not thrilled with it in this car either. If it were me, I would do a twin disc knowing what I know now. The odds are, you're probably not going to get to a power level that the clutch will be an issue, but if you put a twin disc in it certainly won't. It'll be a hell of a lot nicer to drive too.

Will, lets go back to the start.
What are you using the car for, racing or spirited street driving?
Do you have any info from the previous owner on any parts that were changed/upgraded?
Just so you know you do not have to pull the engine to change cam & heads.