Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 4248 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

I went to the local hardware store that does a lot of sprinkler installs in the area and he got me started. Bought the ProC controller, master valve/backflow preventer, poly pipe, heads, etc. The front yard is pretty small. I use 4 PGP heads with only 90 degree usage for each head. Then I have the front bushes/flowers which only has 3 hunter SRS sprays heads. The 3rd zone is the north side of the house and used 4 ps spray heads. None of the zones tax the system very heavily. The backyard is much larger, where I need to actually break the areas into zones.

I should go and find out what type of master valve/back flow preventer I have. It doesn't say much on the valve. I will try to include a picture at the bottom.

I am trying not to keep asking the hardware store questions as they are very expensive for most of there sprinkler stuff and feel a little guilty since I will be getting the rest of my stuff from sprinkler warehouse. PGP heads are $20 each.

I just want to make sure I am designing the zones so the pump starts at the beginning and doesn't cycle while watering.

Shipment should be delivered today for the pcm300 modules. I am just guessing as to why I am seeing different results. I will retest GPM tomorrow with the new zones added. Just trying to get a head start in planning zones.

What GPM would you design to. It seems a little tricky with a well/pump as the water source since you don't want the pump to cycle while watering. I was hoping to target 10-12 GPM but it seems like I should try to get as close to 10GPM as I can. Is this correct?

It sounds okay to me. You will obviously need to get a PCM module for the Hunter PRo=C in order to operate the other zones and pop it into the Pro-C. I dont understand why the valve wont allow the same flow electrically than manuallt....Maybe it is not ipening all the way when powered by the Pro-C. I use Irritrol 2400T all the time, and i seem to have the same flow manually and automatically, so you may need to increase the flow and pressure a little from your pump, but you should also have all the valves working electrically and not take time to open them after the system is complete. Everything should work okay!

I couldn't find a toro flow gauge so I made my own. I used a 1" tee and connected a pressure gauge to it. Then connected a 1" shutoff to that to control the pressure. Then ran the water into a 5 gallon bucket and measured the amount of time to fill it.

The reading are taken on a zone that I have the valve finished for but still need to finish burying the pipe. So the water is passing through the master valve/back flow preventer and a 2400T valve.

Note 1: At 40 psi the pump was able to keep up and would get to 60 psi and shut off. The turn on also seems a little low and is set at 35psi. Should I change this to 40 psi. Will it impact the life of the pump?

I can't explain the difference between the full open time of 13.5 sec I saw in the spring and the 30 sec I measured today. The only difference is that I manually opened the 2400T today and previously I let the controller open the valve. I don't have the extra pcm-300 modules for the Hunter ProC controller and it get confusing switching the wires around, so I figured I would just disable zone 3 by disconnected the wire and connect it to ground. Then I could turn on zone 3 which would only turn on the master valve. Then I could manually turn on the valve I was testing with.

I was hoping for a little more flow as it looks like I will need most of the capacity of my ProC controller for the grass and was hoping to have some zones for flower gardens.

I hope this isn't to confusing. Thanks for the patience and any help will be greatly appreciated.

i would buy the toro pressure gauge at your local home depot or lowes and i suggest you do so......just to be right.......yes the OPGP rotors and the PGM can be mixed.......thats what they were designed for.......you can knock down the 40' on a 7 by using the radius adjustment screw on the top of the rotor. You can also go with a smaller nozzle later down the road if your calculations werent right......and the heads are not working properly......let me know your GPM and PSI....when you purchase the pressure gauge.

Is it best to go and buy the Toro Flow and Pressure gauge? Where can I get one? I don't see it in the online store.

Or can I go and buy a pressure gauge like used by my pump pressure switch and build one with a shutoff value to control the pressure (open to 35-40 PSI) and then meausure how long it takes to fill the bucket.