I had a big problem bleeding my clutch as I got air into my master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder. Here is an excellent video that fixed my problem.
I was especially happy because I did not have to buy a motive pressure bleeder, pay $50 and wait 3-4 days to get it

you can buy the oil can at any auto store and ask for vacume tubing they sell it by the foot for less than $1 per foot.

The process took 5 minutes max

If you have experience driving a manual car, I definitely recommend the cdv mod. If makes the car feel faster and it is how a clutch should feel.

PS

I first did the 2 person procedure open bleeder--press clutch-close bleeder--release clutch procedure, but is was ardious and for some reason got air into my master cylinder.

I then used a bleeding gun to suck fluid from the clutch slave cylinder but it did not work well and several BMW mechanics told me that it is not very effective because it is sucks the fluids and minimal air.

That's a cool video, thanks for sharing. I love how DIY video makes everything seem so easy. If anyone tried to bleed the clutch on an e90 you know it is not that easy because the bleed valve is located in a very tight space. I did not have room to loosen the nut on the valve.

You have to use a 7/16 wrench not ratched one, I got at at sears for $2

The first turn is the hardest (opening it) and is easier by pushing the metal tubing a little which is connected to the CDV

Also dont waste your money buying a modified cdv because all it takes is a thin drill bit. Basically just insert the drill bit through the smaller hole in the cdv. Just put pressure while the drill bit is turning and the restrictor will just fall out. Dont worry you wont break anything.

after the restrictor comes out, just clean the cdv and blow air through it to get any plastic fragments out.

Also dont waste your money buying a modified cdv because all it takes is a thin drill bit. Basically just insert the drill bit through the smaller hole in the cdv. Just put pressure while the drill bit is turning and the restrictor will just fall out. Dont worry you wont break anything.

So is drilling necessary, it sounds like you can actually push it out with the thin drill bit.

dude don't drill it. You just need a hex wrench thats small enough to go thru the smaller opening but big enough to not come all the way out. place the cdv on the ground, big opening down. stick the hex wrench thru the smaller opening till it stops. Get a hammer and lightly tap once on the wrench, the "guts" will come out right away w/o much force. Trust me, this is the best way to do it. its just a plastic stopper.

I know this is an old thread, but I've just removed my E92 CDV today, and ended up with no fluid in the system after trying to bleed... The reservoir was up to the MAX mark, so I was mystified, and worried that I wouldn't be able to figure it out.

Eventually I noticed that the way the reservoir is partitioned for brake / clutch is bloody daft... There is a tiny tiny little partition at the back left (where the flexible woven reinforced pipe exits to clutch master). This is the only volume of fluid dedicated to clutch, and only flows in from the rest of the reservoir when it is absolutely brim full (way above the MAX line).

Hence it is very easy and not at all obvious that the reservoir can be at MAX level, but the clutch reserve is gone!!!!

After noticing this and keeping the reservoir absolutely full, I still couldn't satisfactorily bleed all the air out, and it's still a bit spongy but luckily drivable... After reading this thread, I'll be buying an oil can to try again...

I know this is an old thread, but I've just removed my E92 CDV today, and ended up with no fluid in the system after trying to bleed... The reservoir was up to the MAX mark, so I was mystified, and worried that I wouldn't be able to figure it out.

Eventually I noticed that the way the reservoir is partitioned for brake / clutch is bloody daft... There is a tiny tiny little partition at the back left (where the flexible woven reinforced pipe exits to clutch master). This is the only volume of fluid dedicated to clutch, and only flows in from the rest of the reservoir when it is absolutely brim full (way above the MAX line).

Hence it is very easy and not at all obvious that the reservoir can be at MAX level, but the clutch reserve is gone!!!!

After noticing this and keeping the reservoir absolutely full, I still couldn't satisfactorily bleed all the air out, and it's still a bit spongy but luckily drivable... After reading this thread, I'll be buying an oil can to try again...

Hey, GL with the oil can method and let us know how well the oil can method work.

You have to use a 7/16 wrench not ratched one, I got at at sears for $2

The first turn is the hardest (opening it) and is easier by pushing the metal tubing a little which is connected to the CDV

Also dont waste your money buying a modified cdv because all it takes is a thin drill bit. Basically just insert the drill bit through the smaller hole in the cdv. Just put pressure while the drill bit is turning and the restrictor will just fall out. Dont worry you wont break anything.

after the restrictor comes out, just clean the cdv and blow air through it to get any plastic fragments out.

Ok, I tried this to no avail. Oilers are cheaply made and the oiler I found delivered air mixed in with the brake fluid. I tried to use a water bottle held upside down with a hose through the cap in place of the oiler. I forced a whole 12oz bottle of brake fluid up into the clutch system, and it the pedal was still mushy. I finally went back to my vacuum pump brake bleeder. I held just a few inches vacuum against the closed bleeder, and instructed my helper to slowly press the clutch pedal. I cracked open the bleeder for a split second and tons of fluid and bubbles came out. We did that 4 times, filled the res, 4 more times, filled the res, and 4 more times and we were good to go. The few inches of vacuum ensured no air could enter the bleeder, and the pressure on the pedal forced the air through the system.

I have a tip on the end that seals just OK enough that it doesn't let air in, but if I press down hard on the syringe, it will leak some fluid. So I fill the syringe from the reservoir, connect to the slave bleed screw, push syringe down till some fluid leaks out and I am sure there is no air in the line and then loosen the bleed screw up a bit and press down on the syringe slowly. Lock the bleed screw before I run out, rinse and repeat if needed. Works great.

Okay, my advice. Just get a fucking Motive Power Bleeder ($50). Took literally 5 minutes to bleed after set up, with perfect result the first time. That stupid video was a waste of time. I spent 4 hours on Sunday trying to bleed the clutch in what I thought would be a 20 minute job (for every other car I've done); nope, it's a BMW. I tried pulling the fluid with my fluid extractor, tried pumping the pedal, pulled the fluid while pumping, and tried that stupid video method.