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Some More Upgrades to the HR P2de XL...

Decided to pass down the old vxl motor to one of my other P2des and upgrade the HR P2de XL with a Traxxas/Castle ET-2400 Motor. I had originally planned to also use an ET-3S esc and the TQi Radio system as well, but found out that the TQi receiver will not run my steering servo without making it twitch and heat up very quickly. Also, I cant seem to get the ET-3S esc to calibrate with any other remote other than the TQi, and since the TQi wont run my servo, that killed the plans to use both the new radio and the esc. No worries though, cuz my Duratrax/Castle Element Esc is very much up to the task of powering the ET-2400 motor on 3s lipo and my trusty old flysky gt3b radio will do just fine until i can figure out what the deal is with the TQi messing with the steering servo. I currently have it geared with 48 pitch gearing at 21/86 to start with, but will be going up in gearing quite a bit since my motor and esc temps were only at 80F after a full 5400mah 25c 3s pack, and i would like a bit more top end. The ET-2400 motor is very capable, has very minimal cogging at low speed and gives far more power than the vxl at a much cooler temperature. This motor has also added quite a bit of runtime, making my thunder power 5400mah 25c 3s lipo last for an impressive 55mins, which is about 10-15 mins longer than the vxl motor. Hopefully Traxxas will consider replacing the VXL with th ET-2400 in their current and upcoming releases.

The next upgrade to my truck was something i came upon by winning a cheap auction on ebay. I was looking to give my truck the Losi Treatment, so i was hunting for a decent deal on some 8th scale Losi 8ight shocks and i came across some knock-offs that didnt look too bad. So for the heck of it, I threw in a bid for 20 bucks and sure enough i won. I figured that if they last me a few months i will have got my moneys worth out of them. They arrived ten days later, and to my surprise they are built pretty well and look good too. I filled em up with 30wt, grabbed some shock mounting spacers out of the parts bin and bolted them up. You can see in the following picture just how big they are compared to the teambluestar shocks (botttom) and the Traxxas Ultras (middle). They perform really well and best of all, they dont leak! I will be replacing the rod ends wih some aluminum ones as soon as they arrive because ive been having a lot of shock rod end breaks lately due to some big launches and flip attempts. At least my steering and camber link bends and rod end breakages are a thing of the past since i installed the 5mm axial tube links.

Ive also been honing my mid air manipulation skills, check it out:

I love freestyle bashing with any kind of vert ramp, i wish there were some kind of competitions available for wheelies, flips and tricks with R/C vehicles. That would be soooo cool.

Thanks goes out to Thedreadedend and Ksb51rl for recommending the Ofna mt splits wheels which have been indestructible so far. After shattering several sets of rpm wheels, I was beginning to think that replacing wheels was going to be a common occurence (and a severe pain in the butt), thankfully theres good guys like these around here to steer us in the right direction. Being so busy at work has left me with little to no time for forum posting or r/c repairs, so all the help in getting my truck to be bulletproof is very much appreciated as it keeps me and my son bashing worry free during the very few free minutes i do have.

Thanks for reading guys, and if anyone with TQi radio experience could throw me some pointers as to why the TQi 5 channel receiver wont run my servo, i would be very thankful. Oh yeah and its not the ET-3S esc BEC that is causing the servo issues, because i can install the flysky rx with the ET-3S and the steering will work flawlessly but i cant get the esc to calibrate or accept the throttle commands from the flysky. Strange.... Maybe Traxxas has limited the ET-3s esc for use only in the Nhra funny car? And only for use when paired with the TQi Radio? Help Please!!! lol

Definitely looking good. Im really loving that blue can on the 2400 with the TRAXXAS logo. That's a real nice touch your initial gearing choice is not a bad starting place, what's nice about your situation, is that i know you have some quarter sized pinions laying around. That's the one you want, lol. Good to hear from you again baldydaniels. The truck's looking clean man.

Baldy first off welcome back man!!! Reasons like these are why you need to be around. You definitely stretch the limits when it comes to pushing the limits of the Pede. If I ever go the route of extending my Pede chassis yours and Oaks are examples of ones I would take note at.

Have you tried a glitch buster to see if that would fix the twiching your servo is giving you? I am running 2 TQi's without any issues. The 3 channel is on my Digger with the CC MMP 3800kv with the 208oz Servo from eBay. The 4 channel is on my Sl4sh CC MMM 2650kv with a Savox 1258TG. With this one I had to run a glitch buster because it went all crazy and warmed up. But this is typcial of running these servo's and with Castle ESC's I believe. The castle BEC is 5.5v if i remember correctly. Even purchasing an external BEC for the ET-3S might fix the issue. I'm not real positive if that is the issue at all. I have basically everything you are talking about but the ET-3S. Do you have the Castle link to connect this controller to and look at its settings. Sorry if i'm going over stuff that you might have already checked.

Hey man I just noticed you had posted this issue in more depth on the Traxxas Radio forum. That is probably the best spot to get an answer back on this. It sounds more of a Rx issue than anything else. I hadn't heard of any issues until you said something. Mine have worked flawlessly so far. Both with 2 different setups and configurations. Either i'm lucky or havent made it to the point of the issues others have been having. Hope you can get this sorted out because averything i've done with it it has been top notch. The controls and setup are ubber easy to do. If you can get this thing panned out, which I hope you do. I have pre-ordered a couple GPS Modules & Expander Units. Right now i'm using the Voltage Tab & Temp Sensor. They are both spot on.

Wish ya luck and hope you get that sucker up and running soon! BTW the Blue Can Traxxas/ Castle 2400kv looks sweet on your rig. Cuddos to ya.

Well well, look who's come out to play lol. Nice rebuild! Those are some monster shocks huh! Is 30wt. to heavy? Are you getting the fast spring back action with them..? I've found that the really light wt. fluids work really well in my losi sets. My heavy truck, (SUGAR) HAS 20wt. Front and 22.5wt. rear. I'll be way hung and reading, talk soon.
oh, glad the wheels work as well for you as they do for me. That one broke rim was a slam into create on a 45° angle. Never happen twice in a year lol.

Thanks man. My chassis is extended 2.37" which gives me a 13" wheelbase. Since I only run 3s lipos, its almost a necessity to extend the chassis to maintain full control of the truck. Sure its fun once in a while to run my other stock length pedes on 3s and watch it flail around unpredictably like the tazmanian devil, but that gets old really quickly when you're bashing in a small area or trying to launch off a ramp that's barely wider than the truck. Lol I also chose to go to 13" wheelbase because it opens up a massive selection of body options.

Definitely looking good. Im really loving that blue can on the 2400 with the TRAXXAS logo. That's a real nice touch your initial gearing choice is not a bad starting place, what's nice about your situation, is that i know you have some quarter sized pinions laying around. That's the one you want, lol. Good to hear from you again baldydaniels. The truck's looking clean man.

Sorry about the US currency reference

Thanks buddy, ya man I got some 40+ tooth pinions that are near loonie sized too. Lol. I really like the blue can with the trx logo. A while back I was thinking about stripping the blue off of my traxxas carriers and wheel adapters, I'm glad I didn't cuz then this motor woulda looked out of place. When the blue on the motor starts to show wear, then ill strip the blue off everything and make it all shine. I'm thinking that 22/76 gearing will get me close to where I wanna be. I drive really aggressively and my truck is 7+lbs so I had to start low because not many pedes running a 2400kv motor are as heavy as mine, so my gearing will be a lot different.

Quick question, did you ever get to the promatch site? I see your running 3s 5400 so I was wondering if its a couple of those? They tend to have some really good run time and power compared with same sized batteries. I get some intense power bursts way up in the throttle with mid range gearing, it'll through the front of my xl up at full throttle right around 45-50mph. Kinda sudden and unpredictable, but can see and feel it coming after I run it a few times.

Digger, thanks for the help bro. I was using the calibration instructions that came with my NHRA funny car and they are identical to the the ones in the link you posted. I find it strange that in those instructions, there is no mention of how to calibrate the et-3s with an aftermarket radio system. Every other traxxas vehicle I've purchased has instructions for calibration with Aftermarket radios, but not the et-3s. Its like the specs of the et-3s are a closely guarded secret or something. There's no detailed specs for the et-3s posted anywhere. Its got a sensor port on the front of it but nobody knows if its functional or not, its identical to the mmp, but has a 3s max input voltage. I have a funny feeling that they made it to work only with the tqi radio system, which would be fine by my if the tqi rx would run my servo. When I hook up my flysky rx to the et-3s the steering is the only thing that works, but it works perfectly so I know the bec has enough juice to run my servo. But for some reason When I hook up the tqi to the et-3s, it acts like it doesn't have enough power to turn the wheels unless the wheels are off the ground. Maybe because its a system out of an nhra funny car, it'll only run that tiny lil servo they have in that unit? Id need about 8 of those tiny things to handle my truck on trenchers. Lol

I just got home so I'm gonna try the et-3s with a spektrum tx and rx and see what it does. Now if it works with that $260 waste of plastic, I'll be really angry!

Quick question, did you ever get to the promatch site? I see your running 3s 5400 so I was wondering if its a couple of those? They tend to have some really good run time and power compared with same sized batteries. I get some intense power bursts way up in the throttle with mid range gearing, it'll through the front of my xl up at full throttle right around 45-50mph. Kinda sudden and unpredictable, but can see and feel it coming after I run it a few times.

You know I've tried to order a promatch lipo on several occasions, but my timing must be off cuz I could never catch the one I want when I had the extra cash. Now that work has been crazy and extra cash is not too much of a problem, I'll check in with promatch and see what's in stock.

The 5400's I'm running are thunder power 3s hard case lipos. Not sure if you've ever tried a thunder power lipo, but they run about $120 and are worth every penny in my experience with em. They give some awesome power, charge extremely consistently without losing capacity and the cells in mine have always stayed balanced within 0.01v.

The only other 3s pack I've run that can out do the TP is my maxamps race edition hard case. Yeah I know there are those that dislike maxamps cuz Jang says they're bad. I say Jang who? Lol. I do agree that they are way overpriced and the c rating is exaggerated, but when I slap that lipo in my truck and mash the throttle..... Ooooh maaan! Its like 3s lipo with a 100 shot of nos. Ill likely never buy one again due to the extreme price, but if they were selling at a reasonably competitive price id buy them again and again. . Just my experience with em though, and I've only owned a total of 3 maxamps lipos, so I'm not the leading authority. But just like you, I do own quite a few lipos of all different brands in every price range from $20-$300 and I can honestly say that even the worst performing lipos are still better than running nimh packs. Lol.

Well the good news is that i figured out why my 5 channel TQi rx wont run my servo...
The bad news is that the TQi rx doesn't like my $150 servo because upon opening the outer case of the servo, the very distinct and not so pleasant smell of burnt electronics was made very apparent. The upside is that the flysky rx doesnt care that the servo is in this state and runs it like theres nothing wrong, same goes for the spektrum rx, so after i buy a suitable replacement for this servo, it will find a new home in one of my other p2des or my sons emaxx.

One more thing i found out about the TQi rx that may help others facing servo woes, is that it does not like standard/analog servos. It'll run any of my digital servos without issue, but as soon as i hook up an analog servo, nothing but twitching, heat and constant buzzing. I guess whatever runs the digital signal in my servo is what is cooked cuz its acting the same way as the analog servos.

I tried and tried again to calibrate a few different aftermarket radios to the et-3s and its not gonna happen. Traxxas has got me on this one i guess, as the et-3s seems to only work with the TQi radio system. At least the TQi radio setup is a good system, cuz it would be pretty bunk to be limited to a radio that is lame. But i do feel a little burned by the fact that i am being limited to using only the traxxas TQi radio system, which in turn limits me to digital servos only. Its kinda like owning a radio shack r/c all over again and being limited to using only the radio shack parts for it. Hopefully i'm wrong here, and maybe missed a step needed to calibrate an aftermarket radio to the et-3s esc, but i dont feel that i am missing anything, especially since the et-3s programming instructions give no mention of using an aftermarket radio. Plus i already own a castle/dtx esc that can use any radio out there and i have no problems getting it to calibrate. It just would have been nice to know these things before buying, or at least read about these limitations in the manuals for these devices instead of having to find out the hard way myself. I'll give the manuals a read again, maybe theres some fine print i missed.

Yo Baldy I'm not sure what state you are in and if you still want to give the TQi another shot in your rig. What about going for one of the versions of the MMP? I just purchased the black MMP for unsensored/ sensored motors. It is a replacement for the green MMP I just burned out, ughhh!!!

I have a couple more TQi Rx's to install in my trucks. I'm working on converting most of my fleet over to 2 TQi's. Finishing up on a couple of upgrades on my P4de, which i'm hoping to complete by the end of this week. After that I'll put the TQi Rx in my ERBE, which has a High Voltage JR Servo ( $150 ) and see how the system reacts to that. You've got me thinking and wondering. But like you also noted you were having problems with analog ones, as this one is digital. All of the servos I run are Digital.

Diggerpede, you know me better than that! Theres no way id just let a little hiccup like that stop me from running the TQi in the HR P2de. I love the TQi in my XO-1 and its equally as cool in my nhra dragster. I was running a $150 digital servo (HS-7950TH Ultra Torque HV Coreless Titanium Gear Servo with programmer) but like i said, it smelled like burnt electronics when i opened it up so im sure that was the issue.

The whole reason i want to run the et-3s as well in the HR P2de is because i plan on running the ET-3s in all my P2des with the TQi Radio. Have you seen the price of the et-3s on ebay? I bought the one for the HR P2de for $60 which is a steal, and the average price is $65.

Servo issues solved!

Ive been running the et-3s and TQi in the HR P2de for a few days now. I solved the servo issue by simply using another digital servo that i modded for temporary use until my new servos come in the mail since all of my other high torque servos are currently in use in other trucks and i promised myself i would stop stealing parts from my other builds. Lol.

All i can say is i am very impressed with the et-3s and et-2400 motor. I have been stepping up the gearing before every run and am currently at 26/83 and even with my 7+lb HR p2de on 3s, i cant seem to get this motor hot, but man is it fast!

Now i have another issue though:

Thats the beefy slash 4x4 shafts and that was the third shaft in the same run! I can install them brand new and they look like they have been run for 6 months after about 5-10 minutes of run time. Its very annoying.

So i'm gonna try the mip x-duty cvds again and hopefully they will last longer than last time i bought them.

Thedreadedend, guess what? I went to the pro-match site to order a couple new lipos as per your recommendation, and due to the new usps regulations for shipping lithium batteries, anyone outside the U.S. cant place an order. Im assuming this just came into effect recently, as ive ordered lipos from the states several times before. So now what?

I'll give him a call on Tuesday, see if their is any way around it.......maybe an individual can ship it to you rather than the manufacturers ...hehehe. we see what we can do. Wow that really puts the brakes on ANY lipo battery with good juice getting up to you guys huh.
Your not gonna be to happy with the HR shafts, they also twist up awfully quick for metal. Im running 30/83 at the moment on my 2400, 3s 5400 50c. It screams. As soon as I get my spurs in the mail, I can get back to 32p.

All i can say is i am very impressed with the et-3s and et-2400 motor. I have been stepping up the gearing before every run and am currently at 26/83 and even with my 7+lb HR p2de on 3s, i cant seem to get this motor hot, but man is it fast!

Now i have another issue though:

Welcome to teh club There's just something about the 2400 and trenchers that makes stock p4de axles cry - and that's pretty much teh main reason why i've been looking at different tires. The badlands are pretty good to the axles. They don't have grip like a trencher or similar tire, but they 'produce' traction in off road situations. So like 3 quick rips on the trigger and the truck gets catapulted...more like a stab and go driving style. The Subcultures are somewhere in the middle between the trenchers and badlands for traction as far as grip and driving style goes, but the driveabilty/compliance is soooooo good.

I'm looking forward to your axle setups BaldyDaniels. Someone in the Rustler forum picked up the hardened steel option but I havent seen much in a review since the initial post. That individual was also running a vxl motor so...

and that's an awesome price for those x duty's.

Good to see youre gearing up a bit. If you continue to gear up, the motor will continue to make more power, its a beast. Playing the with the gearing on the 2400 is so much more fun than gearing a vxl motor. The VXL motor, for the most part, is geared to protect against heat in a 3S bashing app. Gearing the 2400 is a decision based on how much power do I want from this motor (your initial gearing was maybe too low to really draw big amps and make big power), and how far forward am i willing to shift the powerband forward. This motor makes so much powr on the lowend, you can afford to gear up. I only hit 170* once on trenchers bashing a ful pack geared 22/50 over the summer - and it sounds wicked.

Man, i've nearly used up all of my spare shafts! Lol. Theres no way I'm willing to just give up the trenchers, i like them way too much. I just have to find the right shafts, if i can't ill make em myself. 😜

In case anyone else wants to try the mips, heres the link to the mip x-duty shafts for the same price i got em:

I also just ordered another set of hardened steel shafts from rcdamper. They were only $40 bucks, but i figure one of these sets of shafts has to hold for a little while and between the 3 sets i should be ok for a bit.... Hopefully.

I'll give him a call on Tuesday, see if their is any way around it.......maybe an individual can ship it to you rather than the manufacturers ...hehehe. we see what we can do. Wow that really puts the brakes on ANY lipo battery with good juice getting up to you guys huh.
Your not gonna be to happy with the HR shafts, they also twist up awfully quick for metal. Im running 30/83 at the moment on my 2400, 3s 5400 50c. It screams. As soon as I get my spurs in the mail, I can get back to 32p.

Ya man, i havent had to buy any lipos for a bit so i hadnt come across this problem. I saw that spc has an arrangement with ups for shipping, but ups is a gigantic rip off when it comes to customs fees. Earlier this year i bought another p2de vxl for $150 and the shipping and customs fees came to a total of $130. Not only that, but they collect the customs fees COD, so i have to be home to get the package cuz they wont leave it at my local post office without getting paid so i have to go out of my way to either be home to receive it or arrange to go and pick it up. Pretty hard to do with my job. Strange how i can still order lipos from the states off ebay via usps, too bad theres no good ones. At least im not going without any lipos, that would not be cool. Not that i can drive my truck anyways, cuz shafts dont last more than ten minutes so im stuck waiting for the steel ones to arrive whenever that is. Good thing i have so many rc's! Which shafts are you referring to as the ones that will twist up? Cuz i wont bother wrecking them, ill just put them in another of my p2des. What shafts are you using? Im thinking that the mips are gonna be the strongest, but i shattered the drive cups on the last ones i had, so i dunno. I guess theres only one way to find out!

A fella at the hobbie shop tried the silver set, HR I think it was, first pull on the trigger and it twisted out of his slash. It was a geared up 3800 on 2c. I've got a pile of hd sl4sh shafts, slippers set for a slow pick up at the start but will yank the front clean over once in motion. I put a set of Tekno bones and xo1 axles together for an extended shaft, fits sl4sh with and without protrac but not long enough for the sl2sh/p2de with protrac. That was a bummer. I'll post a pic of the comparison for ya, I gained about 8-10mm.

Accepting requests for bashing at GREENWOOD BASHPLEX in Pittsburgh PA!! Check the thread in the track buddy forum and reply there or pm

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Another idea seen somewhere else. Cant find the thread, but the guy was twisting axles on and erbe motor.

The normal outer axle is the green edit. He cut down another outer axle and sleeved the inner axle(orange). He left just enough room for change in the axle length during suspension travel(purple) The sleeve was then ca'd into place, and he did not have any problems after.

Another thing I found out. The metal balls in the 4x4 shafts fit emaxx shafts. not sure if its the older maxx shafts or the new ones. A guy at the track was running emaxx shafts on his 4x4 slash using the stock outputs and axles. Not sure if any of this will help, as your outputs look mangled also, but you can use maxx shafts with the stock outputs and axles for reference.

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I forgot about that one also. But look at the hole where the metal ball studs go through the plastic... the dowels or the idea I posted will do nothing for that. If the ball joint holes in his axles and trans outputs still look good, the maxx shaft mod may help.

Thanks guys for the ideas. Yeah I tried my wooden dowel trick on a set of new shafts and without having that extra bit of shaft flex, the u joint yoke just blows apart almost instantly. The dowel trick worked excellent when I was running the vxl motor on 3s, but the yokes just aren't strong enough.

Maybe this is the only solution for now. Lol

I'm gonna have a look at the shafts on my sons emaxx and see what's up. He's back on our side now that I made the Po-Po-Pede hummer brushless on 3s. Now his emaxx sees zero action. Haha.

Sent from Baldy's Rotary Telephone Using The Retro-Messaging App and One Finger.

Sorry to go off topic Baldy! But i'm glad to see you got the little one back on to the dark side!!!! LOL I bet he love's blasting the Po-Po-Pede around. Just need some running footage.

I have some leftover stock EMBE shafts that I might see what I can do with to. I'm sure you'll beat me to the punch and you have more innovation than I do.

All I can say is you and Oaks are crazy. About 15 months ago I had thought about going with this setup but went with the MMP 3800 instead. I run the same basic system in my P4de and that setup is crazy on it. I can do standing and running backflips with it on 3S with the Trenchers. Crazy crazy crazy traction. I'm working on some running footage that' ill try and get up soon.

If MAxx axles fit slash 4x4 joints, and if you can buy all of the MAxx axle parts separate, why not run MAxx axles down until you get to the stub for those of us running 5mm axled 17mm hex adapters?

I'm not sure which maxx half shafts fit the sl4sh stubs, but the shafts on my sons emaxx are huge compared to the sl4ash ones. You can get the slash stubs to barely squeeze onto the maxx u joint but you lose a lot of articulation. At the u joint and I could see that causing some binding when I get big air. I have some extra hpi savage shafts that are huge like the emaxx shafts so I'm gonna see what I can do with them. As rag6 stated above, having the shafts be strong enough is only half the problem. Its the yoke that fails if the shaft holds or the shaft fails if the yoke holds. So its both or nothing I guess. Lol.

In the meantime I stopped at the hobby shop yesterday and bought his entire stock of sl4sh and p4de shafts, about 10 sets. I'm also gonna gear taller to lessen the low end torque a little and I loosened the slipper some more. I took today off cuz I promised my lil guy that id go stay with him for his first day of kindergarten, so after that ill see how long the shafts hold up. :-P

Sent from Baldy's Rotary Telephone Using The Retro-Messaging App and One Finger.

I'll give him a call on Tuesday, see if their is any way around it.......maybe an individual can ship it to you rather than the manufacturers ...hehehe. we see what we can do. Wow that really puts the brakes on ANY lipo battery with good juice getting up to you guys huh.

There isn't any legal way around it if trying to use the USPS for shipping.

Thanks for your take on the subject BaldyDaniels. This thread is definitely the one to be watching for the axle solution behind big power. Lol, at buying all of the axle stock at the lhs

I believe the maxx shafts are for the 2.5 model, at least I saw a thread in the sl4sh forum on it a while back. The only thing that kept me from trying it was the 6mm stub axles. Sure, you can hone a 17mm hex adapter to accept the 6mm stub, but what about the hex retainers? They are only 7mm in diameter and im not sure about any differences in the threaded area's diameter on a stub axle in a 5mm vs 6mm comparison. At this point, I wouldnt mind blowing thru my leftover stubs all in the sake of seeing if those maxx sized outputs can handle the truth

As far as the dowel trick, I tried using a 1/2 inch section of lower axle shaft to cover most of the exposed spline area but not too much to bind the suspension up, and you're absolutely right. Outputs and stubs suffer. But it's not entirely bad when that's what's left in your spare's box. Interestingly enough, the stubs are the least most common failed part in my experience.

and yeah, school with the kid and classmates rocks, lol, we have a program in the states called Watch D.o.g.s. - dads of great students, sign up to volunteer - help for a day, you get introduced during the morning announcements, hang out, chill, help, whatever - its definitely time well spent in the right place. Soon enough, you'll be chaperoning the field trips carrying the lunch bags. They grow up way too quick brotha...

Well, i geared it up some to 26/76 and loosened the slipper about another 1/8th turn and managed to get about 15 mins of run time before the output yoke gave out at the u joint, snapped clean off. Im still not getting the top end speed id like to see, but i cant accurately gear this motor without being able to do a full 50-55 min run. All i know is that swapping out shafts is getting really old real quick. If i wanted to fully discharge my 3s lipo, id go through 3-4 shafts.

Oaks, you are absolutely correct, the stub yoke is the one part that always holds. Ive snapped around 5-6 half shafts and 5-6 output yokes, but am still running the same stub yokes cuz its faster to change the shaft and output without having to remove the wheel and the 17mm adapter as well. They are pretty twisted and stretched, but they still hold. I guess the yoke and shaft are absorbing most of the force, but i imagine that if i were to run maxx shafts with sl4sh stubs, the stubs would likely give out.

Im working on the hpi shafts and currently have the hpi stub axle output fitted with 5mm stub axles and have the trans outputs ground down a bit for clearance and modified a bit to fit the magnum output drives. Even before installing them, I can already see that they will fit and work without binding, but only if i limit the shock extension travel with the fuel tubing mod. With the suspension at full extension im sure they will bind, but ill test fit and post results.

Here's a comparison pic of what I have so far. (hpi shaft on top, sl4sh shaft on bottom)

Dang, not bad at all I see the dremel work on the output, clean......fwiw, I think the maxx axle conversion required trimming on both halves of the slides.

26/76 is a great gear for the smaller areas, for sure. With that extended chassis, if you can take advantage of taller gearing, you sir wil have one sick nutty p2de. The axle swaps get old definitely, but how ya liking that motor so far who am i kidding, once you fix this, look out for 4S all of this r&d because torque limiting and punch control arent in the vocab, lol

Baldy, could the esc be limited to the tqi because of the torque control feature? Maybe that is whats holding up the calibration?

You could be partly right because the torque control is run by the throttle trim knob (now called the multi-function knob) As you can see in the following programming tree, that knob can be set for multiple things. Besides the torque control, i think the limitation to using only the tqi radio has to do with the burnout, staging and race modes controlled by the switch on the top the dragsters tqi tx, as well as the launch feature controlled by the red switch on the handle of the tx. I am still wondering why the dragster has a 5 channel rx when only 2 channels are used though. I now have all these above mentioned features on my HR P2de, but i doubt ill ever have use for any of them other than the multi function knob. I may use the launch control switch to test the load integrity of the new axles i have coming though. Lol

The esc is the best 60 bucks ive ever dropped into my hr p2de though, and as they come up for sale on ebay, i plan to buy em all up for my other p2des as well. Its has such a small footprint and 3s is plenty of power for the p2des. But i wont be putting the et-2400 in the other trucks cuz at stock length and weight, they are already pretty hairy on 3s with the vxl motor. Id just like to be done with the vxl-3s altogether cuz i dont like the inevitability of problems that come with running the vxl-3s esc, plus they're easier to sell while they have no problems cuz once the gremlins get in there, the value of them plummet drastically. 😝

Dang, not bad at all I see the dremel work on the output, clean......fwiw, I think the maxx axle conversion required trimming on both halves of the slides.

26/76 is a great gear for the smaller areas, for sure. With that extended chassis, if you can take advantage of taller gearing, you sir wil have one sick nutty p2de. The axle swaps get old definitely, but how ya liking that motor so far who am i kidding, once you fix this, look out for 4S all of this r&d because torque limiting and punch control arent in the vocab, lol

Ya these shafts needed trimming as well. About 3/4" off the splined side and 1/2" off the outer sleeve. You can see how i tried to leave as much of the outer sleeve as possible to cover more of the splined side of the half shaft, this will give more strength and less twisting of the splined shaft, but may lead to more stress on the yokes. At $25 for a set of 2 of these hpi shafts, i wouldnt mind getting it right on the first try, and im hoping they work out okay and last until all the new steel shafts arrive.

Do not doubt the outcome of this thread though, cuz even if all the new steel shafts i ordered don't work out, i will find a set to fit the p2de with protrac even if i gotta try every shaft on the market. I have too many brushless p2des that i run exclusively on 3s lipo, and this is one issue id love to say goodbye to on all of my p2des.

Its also starting to become a bit of an issue my p4de, which by the way is the whole reason im running this et-3s/et-2400 setup in the HR p2de. I had this bright idea of trying my new tekin rx8/pro4 3300 combo in the p4de before running it in the HR p2de like i intended, and now theres no way i could take that tekin system out of the p4de cuz its a perfect match for that truck. Plus the tekin system costs nearly 4 bills with shipping and is better protected in the p4de. I beat the living snot outta the HR P2de every chance i get, so it makes more sense to (over) power it with a system that wont bring me to tears when i break it. Lol.

Remember back in the day when we all used to say how crazy it was that we've spent so much money on our trucks? Man, i could burn all those past receipts and their subtracted amount wouldnt even make a dent in the grand total ive spent now. No wonder people think we're nuts.... Cuz we are!

Remember back in the day when we all used to say how crazy it was that we've spent so much money on our trucks? Man, i could burn all those past receipts and their subtracted amount wouldnt even make a dent in the grand total ive spent now. No wonder people think we're nuts.... Cuz we are!

Nuts....is hardly the word for us!!! I think we have an OCD in RC. LOL I doubt I spend near as much as you do, but its easy for me to spend 5 bills a month on a slow month. Don't even ask how much I spend on my Desert Rat Sl4sh. haha

The wife actually asked me the other day how many RC's do I have, I said ummmmm......( ?? ). Sad thing is with all my spare parts I could probaby build a couple more. I just purchased a bandit roller last week, should be arriving at my door here in the next couple days.

I'm subscribed! I want to see the outcome of this. I should have joined this band wagon a long time ago. I might have to build an ext pede just to do this.

Got home late tonight but had to get these modified hpi shafts modded and mounted. Not being able to run more than 15mins without a shaft change has been bugging me all week!

Initially I had thought that these shafts would bind against the rear arms, and at first they did. But one quick shock mounting position change and they rotate without binding in any suspension position. I will say that they just barely fit, and man are they beefy. Hopefully they are as strong as they look. Here's some pics of them mounted up on the HR P2de:

I did have a binding issue with the output yoke rubbing on the HR gear cover, but since I'm not concerned about running a 90t spur, I just bent the cover in slightly to allow more clearance for the output yoke, then I elongated the cover's mounting holes to allow the cover to mount further away from the yoke. Problem solved. I'll be putting these shafts to the test sometime tomorrow morning, and if they keep holding I'll be testing them out all day long! Lol. I will post results, of course.

Oh yeah, and since I figured out a way to be able to run the tqi and et-3s on the HR P2de, you guys might want to see what my upgraded and now fully loaded TQi tx looks like. It sports my old iphone 3gs cuz I think it looks better with the chrome trim around the iphone. Plus I don't use the phone anymore so it can stay strictly for use with this transmitter. You can't beat the on-the-fly esc programming of the castle link live, Its soooo easy to use and such has a user friendly interface being integrated into the traxxas link app. I want this option for all my rc's now! The tx is also sporting a mount for the contour gps camera, which is how I get all my video when running my trucks. All the extra stuff on the tx makes it weigh a lot more, but I'm used to it now and I don't even notice. The extra weight is imo, a small price to pay for having the convenience of the castle link live and traxxas link app, and being to get every bit of the run on 1080p full hd video without having someone else run the camera.
Check it out:

Sent from Baldy's Rotary Telephone Using The Retro-Messaging App and One Finger.