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Cuilcagh lies on the Shannon-Erne watershed. The Shannon rises on the north-western slopes of Cuilcagh at Shannon Pot, a steep-sided pool where the underground river emerges. Strictly speaking, there are streams a mile or two further uphill. Originating in Ulster, the Shannon’s journey through this province lasts less than ten miles, before it enters Connacht. It forms the boundary between Connacht and Leinster for much of its length, and ultimately meets the sea in the province of Munster. Thus it is both a boundary and a link between all four provinces of Ireland. In fact, it even formed the western boundary of the ancient fifth province of Meath. Around Cuilcagh there is a belief concerning the ‘Northern Shannon’, an underground river that supposedly connects the waters at Shannon Pot to the River Claddagh, which emerges at Marble Arch Caves and then flows into the Erne. If Cuilceach genuinely is a variant of cailceach, 'chalky', the name is rather puzzling, as the mountain consists predominantly of sandstone and shale, covered with much bog and heather. Where the rock does outcrop, as at the summit cliffs, it is mainly grey. However, it is possible that the name refers to the limestone rock on the lower northern flanks. Here a number of streams disappear below ground at swallow holes named Cats Hole, Pollawaddy, Pollasumera and Polliniska, all forming part of the Marble Arch cave system. If so, the name would mean 'calcareous' rather than 'chalky'.
Cuilcagh is the highest mountain in the Breifne area and the 170th highest in Ireland. Cuilcagh is the highest point in county Cavan and also the highest in Fermanagh.Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/?PHPSESSID=5nuljisjueassfqltdsj2irn32

Cuilcagh is the only county top to straddle Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland and, lying on the boundary between counties Fermanagh and Cavan, is also part of the world’s first international Geopark: the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark (2008). Cuilcagh’s distinctive table top plateau is comprised of gritstone, uncommon in Ireland, eroded into dramatic cliffs and rugged rocky outcrops that sweep down to lower sandstone and shale slopes which tail off into large expanses of upland blanket bog. Below this is limestone, with its mysterious sinkholes and extensive cave systems. In view of the turbulent past of this area, the Geopark is a fine example of cross border co-operation and peaceful coexistence using the landscape as a vehicle for recreation, education and reconciliation.

The day held little promise, with rain in the air, oppressive with humidity and the pungent smell of turf, as we set off up a track at H13385 24714A towards Benbeg. Three figures moved steadily out on the bog, hurriedly loading bags of peat into a tractor trailer, as we left the track for steep ground skirting the edge of forestry. Thick mats of sphagnum moss entangled with heather and bilberry made the going tough. Above the forestry we traversed the edge of a corrie with steep shaly slopes of honey coloured rock beneath Benbeg. The summit is unremarkable with no cairn, but the views compensate, especially the long sweeping ridge we were to cross, with Cuilcagh at the end, moody and shrouded in cloud.

Gaining the ridge involved traversing undulating boggy ground, picking a way through a maze of eroded peat hags, then a short scramble over gritstone outcrops. On the ridge the sun broke through the cloud with almost supernatural radiance, illuminating Cuilcagh’s trig point that protruded from its distinctive mound, resembling the breast of a slumbering mountain goddess. The wind driven mist billowed like smoke up over the sheer cliff edge. The rocky summit plateau is a delight. Outcrops of gritstone are weathered into intricate patterns, some slabs of it encrusted with quartz pebbles from an ancient deluge. Strange crevices, 20 ft deep that disappear, choked with glacial debris, before reappearing, harbour huge ferns.

The cloud had now lifted, offering fine views of cornflower blue Lough Atona nestled at the foot of craggy cliffs set amid the russet and green of bog and heather. Towards the NE were small hills, ancient limestone reef knolls, and near pristine blanket bog with pools of water that sparkled merrily in the feeble sunlight.

To avoid the same return route, we scrambled down a steep cliff gully H11602 27151B, heading across uneven boggy ground of reeds and knee high heather, jumping several small streams, for the edge of the forestry below Benbeg. At H12544 26110C we crossed a barbed wire fence by a tree stump, using forestry paths to return to our car, grateful for our 12 km odyssey through part of the North and South’s acclaimed Geopark. Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/6447/

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Picture from gerrym : Cuilcagh from Benbeg

Picture: Cuilcagh from Benbeg

gerrym on Cuilcagh, 2006

by gerrym 1 May 2006

Climbed 5.6.04 starting at Cuilagh Mountain Park near to Marble Arch Caves (121336D). There is a large sink hole here but very difficult to see down into due to vegetation. Cross stile and follow track. Just after crossing bridge take "floating path" off to right, this soon ends but continue in westerly direction to pick up course of Sruh Croppa River after half hour. Follow winding course of river through gully with nice waterfall and past some ruined settlements. As near summit of Tiltinbane (596m) climb away from river to the right to avoid steep gullies. Follow fenceline up to the summit - the final section is quite steep and may require use of hands. A depression next to summit cairn is perfect shelter for a brew. There are extensive views from the summit ridge - north and west towards Sligo Bay and big hills which i think were the Nephin Beg Mountains in Mayo and south over Iron Mountains. Follow path which keeps close to northern cliffs, passing fissures in rock and Lough Atona ,reaching large summit cairn after 1.5 hour walk along summit.
Had intended to return by Ulster Way between Trien and Benaughlin (marker posts just visible) but shortened journey by heading north over moor following river courses back to the track at the bridge. A long walk at 6.5 hours but rewarding with plenty of interest and some good views.

The approach from the S via Benbeg is perhaps more rewarding - it cuts out a long approach through moorland and has a fine sweeping ridge with a very different perspective on the mountain (see Benbeg for this walk). Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/995/

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donieg on Cuilcagh, 2008

by donieg 30 Apr 2008

Climbed Benbeg and Cuilcagh yesterday 29.04.2008. Weather was fine with very good visability, this is an ideal medium effort walk for walkers who have about 3.5 -4hrs to spare. I parked my vehicle at H11960 24491E in the townland of Altachullion Lower in the Bellavally Gap. There is a gate at this point (not locked) with a gravel track leading up to a telecommunications mast at H12102 25104F. It is possible to drive up to the mast which leaves a short climb to Benbeg at H12087 25426G or you can walk up the track to the mast and climb on to Benbeg. I then treked around to the summit onCuilcagh, visibility was excellent with great views all the way, however if the cloud was low or in misty conditions this trek could be more dangerous as the route is along a sheep track with a dangerous d rop on your right hand side as you walk towards Cuilcagh. With this in mind I took some grid references along the route which may be usefull to a person to navigate in bad visibility - Starting at Benbeg - on to H11487 26360H on to H11476 26525I on to H11515 26924J on to H11664 27260K on to H11828 27662L on to H11939 27839M on to the summit of Cuilcagh at H12355 28011N. I give these reference points as I noticed CSD (experienced walker) in his comment of 22.10.2006 spoke of going off track twice by up to 90 degrees between Benbeg and Cuilcagh in low visibility - a sobering thought considering the steep drop previously mentioned. The views from Cuilcagh on 29.04.2008 were well worth the effort getting there, trekked back to my vehicle via Benbeg. I recommend this walk for somebody that has about four hours to spare and a not too difficult climb. Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/3074/

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Absalon on Cuilcagh, 2002

by Absalon 22 Oct 2002

One of the finest walks on Cuilcagh is from the townland of Eshveagh(H079280O) to the Black Rocks(H140239P). Map OSNI Sheet 26. Take the narrow straight road opposite (nearly) Glengevlin church. Half a mile on at a bend go through a gate on the R. Minutes later muddily ascend on the L into a field and veer to the R until you reach a barbed wire fence. Follow this until you reach a gate. Enter a narrow enclosure that has an earthen bank running along the centre. Follow the bank which will eventually bring you out on the heathery hillside where there is a primitive path that is difficult to find. However aim for the grassy ridges under the cliffs of Tiltinbane and when there,ascend steeply to the R or the L of the cliffs.There is a damaged megalithic tomb a little N of the highest point. A fine ridge stretches NE for 2-3 miles to Cuilcagh (or the Monument as it is locally known). Boggy ground is largely replaced by stony terrain with cliffs on the N side and limestone fissures on the ridge. From Cuilcagh descend SW to a boggy ridge,then veer S to Benbeg(539 on map). After Benbeg turn L rounding the cliff and descend with the forest on your L to a rough road which leads R to the main road R200 and the Black Rocks. Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/172/

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Picture from paddyobpc : Cuilcagh Legnabrocky Trail

Picture: Cuilcagh Legnabrocky Trail

-Legnabrocky Trail

by paddyobpc 24 Jan 2017

Walk Date: 06 Jun 2016. The previous day Dillon(dillonkdy), my sister Helen and I had climbed Truskmore, Truskmore SE Cairn and Seltannasaggart SE Slope. After a rest overnight in Drumshanbo we now had our sights set on Cuilcagh to tick Fermanagh and Cavan off the list of CHP’s. We headed to the Fermanagh side of the mountain near the “Marble Arch Caves” to use the beautiful Cuilcagh Legnabrocky Trail. It really is as impressive as it looks in the pictures and we were again blessed with the weather all the way to the summit and most of the way down. The views and scenery on this walk are outstanding and the boulders as you walk to the summit after the main climb are unusual and amazing too. On two occasions we had to shelter from some violent Thunder and Lightning storms before we returned to the car but luckily we were not stuck near the summit when this happened. Dillon (dillonkdy) was glad to be back to the car from this one. Up and back we covered 14 km, a height gain of 470m taking us almost 5 hours including our stops from the weather. See Dillon’s (dillonkdy) full story of his County High Point Challenge at https://dillons32chpchallenge.github.io/progress/index.html We also found Kieron Gribbon's High Point Ireland website (www.highpointireland.com) to be a useful source of information for our 32 County High Points challenge. Definitely worth checking out if you're planning to do any of the High Point challenges. Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/18813/

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Mountain Walking Route (from Marble Arch) Closed

by murraynolan 1 Apr 2011

I am/was planning to walk Cuilcagh this weekend from the North via Marble Arch or Florence Court (9th/10th October 2010) however I just noticed this on the Marble Arch Caves website:

Published on:17 Sep 2010

Cuilcagh Mountain Walking Route Closed

Unfortunately due to a recent landslip, the walking trail to the summit of Cuilcagh Mountain at the end of the 4km vehicular gravel stone track within the Cuilcagh Mountain Park will be closed until further notice.

So, you (and I) may need to consider an alternative route. I have sought clarification and will update this comment if I hear more.

** UPDATE (1st April 2011 - no joke!) **
A visitor to my blog posted the following comment on my Cuilcagh piece.

"with talk of landslides and forestry work I asked WalkNI for their advice on a straightforward route to the top. Their advice was as follows:

The official answer is that the main route from the Marble Arch Geopark car park is still closed due to a landslide affecting a bridge, but it is known that people are still accessing the mountain from here by by-passing the bridge at their own risk. Another route that you could take would be from the Gortalughany Viewpoint carpark. Take the A32 south, ignore signs for Florencecourt and Marble Arch Caves, lookout for turn on Right signposted ‘Gortalughany viewpoint’. Follow this narrowing and steepening road to the car park at the top beyond a small, disused quarry.

From there, walk along the road then turn right towards the gate and follow this track in. Continue along the path to the limestone grassland at Leggacurragh, join the Hiker’s Trail by following the path to the west side of the valley, just by the information sign. Look for the waymarker post with Ulster Way signs and proceed from there! The last section of this route is very steep though so be prepared! Take an OSNI map too as when there is low cloud, waymarker posts cant be relied on due to low visiblity. Enjoy your walk!”
This is the map I’ll be using, the vieing point mentioned can be found in the South East of the Map:
http://www.walkni.com/d/walks/585/Cuilcagh%20Mountain.pdf

Thanks to "Trailtrekker" for the comment. Trackback: http://mountainviews.ie/summit/165/comment/6125/