Overview

The 2.5km long ridge between the two summits of Unnamed Peak 6161m and Mt. Qunyang (6121m) represents an extremely scenic and technically easy traverse. The altitude along the crest never drops below 5900m, and there are stunning views on the nearby Noijin Kangsang, Kaluxung, as well as the more distant Nyenchen Tanglha range to the north and the Bhutan/Tibet Himalaya to the south.

Though the ridge is absent of technical difficulties, the northern side of the mountains has several treacherous crevasses. The ridge is also quite exposed to the strong winds that use to sweep the whole area.

The present page describes the route in a west-east direction, but the traverse can also be made in the opposite direction, or with some alternative detour in the north side (as I did).

The following two pictures give a good overview on the whole traverse, seen from the west (left picture) and from the east (right picture):

Getting There

Route Description

The starting point is the summit of Unnamed Peak 6161m, which can be reached via the South Route.

From the summit, return on your track to the saddle along the ridge to the saddle located at 6059m (see GPS waypoints below). There is a small climb on a hard cornice just east of the saddle.

An alternative option is to descend from the summit directly in the heavily glaciated north side of the mountain, in order to avoid the 20-30m climb after the saddle. This is the way I choose, but it resulted much more tiring, as I found deep unconsolidated snow, with some well hidden crevasses. It is advisable to take a rope if you chose this option.

1. Summit ridge of P6161m Seen from the saddle at 6059m

2. Option 1: follow the ridge Cornice seen from the saddle at 6059m

3. Option 2: north side Beware of the deep snow and hidden crevasses

Both ways join again on the ridge, and then it is again a straight walk on the ridge down to the col at 5959m, which is the lowest point of the traverse. From the col, climb the easy slopes of the summit dome of Mt. Qunyang (map 6121m, GPS 6130m).

4. Looking back near Col 5959m The tracks are clearly visible on the route chosen

From the summit, you can either follow the southwest ridge route, or continue on the southeast ridge until the foresummit (P6054 on the map), and then south on the loose scree until you reach again the main Nganyang valley at around 5400m (confluent at P5374 on the map).

7. Nganyang valley Looking south from an altitude of approx. 5900m

8. Campsite at 5285m Back to the camp in a wonderful late autumn atmosphere

Panorama from the summit

Both summits offer a very fine 360° views:

To the South: fantastic views on the 6000ers on the south side of Karo La (Kaluxung 6674, Jangsunglhomo 6325, etc.)

To the Southwest: Noijin Kangsang (7206m) north ridge and northeast face