I have finally been able to achieve a long set goal of mine to acquire a TS24! And what a beauty! Fully functional except for a few minor issues (normal analog diva). Out of an operational Studio. Now I have read through most of the topics here and they have always been helpful in restoring and/or modifying my other consoles. Thanks goes to Jim Williams and Jens Schwemin for that. My questions now are:

Do the newer TS24 PCBs fit into the older formats just fine or is there some work to be done to make them compatible? My Board numbers are: SC1385 and SC1396/2. The numbers from the guy that has some leftover strips are: SC1516A+B/5 and SC1519/ISS.4 PSS9148 not to much info concerning wiring on the SCPage. If they are compatible I would love to get some for spare!

My other question: Does anybody know if the Preh Pots from the SC 8000, SC6000 are the same as the in the TS24? I Have three other consoles laying around and spare parts as we all know are hard to come by. I also have an SC800 (no, not an 800b) the brown one, but that one is complete and will not be "slaughtered"

Last question: Anybody know what the 40 channel cost back in the day?!

As always your Input is greatly appreciated!

....looking for a TS12, TS24, Sapphyre or 3200 somewhere in, or close to Germany.

As far as I know all the versions are compatible with the buss board connectors. Even the rare effects return modules that were made for the center section. 8k used Preh pots but they are different values with stepping. 6k used Alps 16 mm pots from Japan.

Soundcraft still has a good stash of TS-24 Preh pots in stock, not bad considering the console has been out of production for years and Preh has been out of biz since the early 1990's.

TS-24 Serial # 1 was sold to Jam Power Studios in Northridge CA back in the 1980's. They paid $80,000 for the 40 input plus patch bay. I've seen them sell for as little as $1000 used.

You will want to replace the PSU fan with a lower noise unit and replace the PSU caps with larger values. I use 18,000 uf/35V caps for the audio mains. 1000 uf are used on the regulator outputs.

...And again thank you for your reply. Alright, I'll be contacting soundcraft then once I've made sure the pots are really defect. I already read about the PSU upgrade and have been looking for the 18,000 caps. Can't find them anywhere. Only 15000. Will that do? Or can you help me out here? We are not quite sure yet if we are going to leave the PSUs in the same room. If so, then yes we will install quieter fans. For sure.

The serial number on my desk is 40007. And it also has the full Patchbay! Complete with Mogami wiring. So one of the first it seems. You may have even heard of this desk before. It has a 16 channel stereo return built into the middle next to the master section. Beautiful work done by Wolfgang Neumann at SPL. And all I know is that this desk came from somewhere in LA about 6 years ago. Any knowledge here? I'd love to get the history on this thing.

Once I start with the pots, I'll have an open PCB and will then of course do the standard restoration/upgrades. Recap, check switches etc. I read your other threads about the Cap sizes and have it all written down. Along with the different bypasses. Also the info on the 2SA1083/4/5. Found a stash of NOS. Also thinking about the "the best cap I've ever heard is a piece of wire". I can totally agree as I did this mod with my SC8000. The desk just literally "Started breathing"! Anything against doing this to the TS24? Any other awesome info as to things to do while its "open"?

PS: what is the best Spray to use on the pots?! I know residue free and all. Preferences? I solar have a recommendation for CRC 3-36.

....looking for a TS12, TS24, Sapphyre or 3200 somewhere in, or close to Germany.

I've de-capped a couple of TS-24's. You need to measure DC offsets first. You will need to use low leakage el caps around any of the fet switches, ay DC current will cause them to not switch. Bypass those with quality poly film caps to retain air.

The mic pre design is a mess, instrumentation amp design with high THD. A couple of resistor swaps converts them to trans-amps. The EQ needs great poly film caps, replace the 6.8k tuning resistors with 3.32k on the high mids to sweep to 22k hz. Since your's is old, it's fitted with too many 5% carbon resistors, not the 2% metal film they later switched to. Replace critical resistors, (fader amp, stereo buss) with Dale CMF55 non-ferrous metal film.