The Daharshes opened the restaurant in 1979. They'd moved to Florida from Nebraska. Their daughter Angie suffered from serious allergies, and a doctor suggested they try a more humid climate to bring her relief.

They had beef shipped in from their home state, and Bill introduced his Nebraska style of seasoning and cooking steak to Cocoa.

Steak is in the name, so of course that's always been a big part of the Grandpa's experience, especially the prime rib. But two other things have made it a local icon.

The twin Pullman train cars of Grandpa's Steakhouse have become the unofficial welcome sign to ...more

The twin Pullman train cars of Grandpa's Steakhouse have become the unofficial welcome sign to Cocoa. Photo taken May 4, 2018.

Suzy Fleming Leonard/FLORIDA TODAY

First, let's talk about those Pullman train cars sitting side-by-side on U.S. 520, about a mile east of Interstate 95. Forget the fancy signage at U.S. 1 welcoming people to Cocoa. Those silver cars set up to look like they're barreling into a tunnel, are the real entry to the city.

They were built in 1927 for the Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey Circus. Bill Daharsh bought the cars and nine others in the early 1990s, Rogene said. When the extra cars didn't work for the restaurant, he sold them. The two remaining cars make up what is, for at least a few more hours, the main Grandpa's dining room.

Then there’s the salad bar. The bar holds about 90 items, from fresh veggies and dressings to puddings and macaroni. It's all-you-can-eat, and is included in the price of entrees.

But don't you think for a second it's an invitation to gluttonous waste.

The servers, many of whom have been at Grandpa's for a decade or more, are quick to remind diners of the rules. Take what you want but eat what you take. If not, you'll get charged extra.

Parents have said it's a great place to teach youngsters to know their limits.

Thursday night at 6:30 p.m., guests lined the platform waiting for their numbers to be called. More people sat on wooden benches inside and watched people filling — but not overfilling — their salad plates.

Tiffany Karichko had a steady patter going, too, as she rang up checks. "See you, honey," she said to one longtime customer. Yes, she assured several people, the cats will be taken care of. No, she doesn't have another job. She's going back to school. Yes, she's going to miss everybody.

It's been rewarding running the restaurant, Rogene said. She's met a lot of people and made a lot of friends.

"I'm really, really, really going to miss my customers," she said, taking a moment to sit down during a brief lull in the hectic dinner hour. "I don't know if I can handle this, but I'm going to try."