1995-2010, fifteen years of Raf Simons. The slim modernist tailoring, the graphic slogan tees, the reference to surf wetsuit via zippers, the billowing pants - all icons of Simons' collections throughout the years, in an edit that otherwise looked entirely toward the future. Only the superfans recall the references, but for those who have passionately followed Simons over the years, it was intense and emotional, set to the strains of 90's Smashing Pumpkins on the soundtrack.

A grand mirrored salon, stirring soundtrack... and vertebrae necklaces, leather gas masks and womenswear. Riccardo Tisci played with the codes established in his menswear - lace, skorts and added leopard print to produce his most emotional menswear moment yet.

Continuing the built-up shoulder of A/W 10, Owens sent boys in nun's headwear down a smoke-filled catwalk. Black and white, neo-purist, a thunderous, thumping techno soundtrack shook the room whilst he did it.