Discussion Topic

Pyro, is that "new" belay one you placed? Those new bolts look a bit too close to the old holes for my liking. Rule of thumb has always been a minimum of 10 bolt diameters from another hole, crack, fissure, etc. Even more if it's a deep bolt.

Great thread. I used to spend some fun afternoons out there late 80's. Anyone remember the asian kid named Kwan? I always thought he was one of the most naturally talented climbers I'd seen...and Art of Climbing! Loved that place. It was the first indoor wall I ever touched, and the whole place smelled like gear.
I should have more memories than I do, but it's not called Stoney for nothing!

Hey Guy...I'm doing good. Trying to get back into it. Have had a bunch of back problems that have really slowed me down. That's on top of the weight I put on over the last 8 yrs or so while I've been "on the couch." Dropped a bunch of it, now just working to stretch and strengthen the lower back. Probably start seeing me and my 11 yr old daughter out there again, especially once daylight savings kicks in. Hard for us to get out there before 6 unless I'm bringing my "hell on wheels" 4 yr old boy too. Not sure how conducive that would be to actually climbing, haha.

BruceAnderson, I remember Kwan. Agree, he was a natural. So freakin' light I could throw him to the top of Turlock myself. LOL. I probably climbed with you during those years too.

Pyro, thanks for Marks number. I haven't had a chance to connect yet, but I will!

The whole crew decided it was dry enuf to go around back and hit up the Yabo Boulder.

Yabo Boulder

Credit: guyman

Aaron Sandlow was up first.

Low start.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

The crux

Credit: guyman

A long reach, ya fall if ya don't get your feet just so.

Credit: M. Frumkin

It's not over, till you bust out a 5.10 mantle.

Credit: guyman

It's done.

Credit: guyman

Stoney is starting to bloom

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Some old dude on a V1.... crank it out.

Credit: guyman

Next up, De-Meat-fritz, tackles the Largonaught.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

D. Fritz making it look ez

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

So these two classics are now chalked up.

We then turned our attention to a problem to the right of the Yabo Arete, named "Ready for takeoff" first done by some "Brit" in the 80's (Thaw or J. Woodward) Ryan Murphy was able to do the second around the late 90's to put it back on the map.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman

A.Rock "Prepared for Launch"

Credit: guyman

Well it didn't go down today, maybe next time.

Toprope tuesdays are going to start up next Tuesday, so bring your harness, we set up some classic TR's and all are welcome to come out and play. (n00bs are always welcome, esp cute girls)

Guy - The only time I ever met Yabo he was workin on that problem to the right of the arete, in the area pictured at the end of your last set of photos there. I think this was an evening in '88. Zulim & Phuvel were there too. He said he had done it once and was trying to get it again. He called the problem "Boy Elroy." (Jetsons Boulder) Anyhow, he was working it and pulled this critical crimper hold off. I have this hold now in my personal collection. Someday when human cloning is permitted I've this sample with skin cells on it we can use to make a Yabo clone. ;-)