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A Guide to the Best of Southern California : MOVABLE FEAST: TAKE-HOME HOLIDAY FARE : L.A.'s Top Taco

MANY insist that L.A.'s finest taco is the carnitas taco dispensed by Roast to Go, a stall in downtown's Grand Central Public Market. Succulent pork (the meat is fried, then shredded to make carnitas), crisp lettuce, sliced green onions and a dab of incendiary red-chile salsa are piled generously into two soft steamed corn tortillas ($1.40). There are beef and chicken tacos as well. Roast to Go, Grand Central Public Market, stall C7-8, 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles.