Fried Chicken, Tortas And Burgers Are On The Menu As Big-Name Chefs Go Casual

I vividly remember the first time I dined at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris. The atmosphere was festive, the servers far more relaxed than the haughty waiters who had served me elsewhere.

And while the food was less grand than the late master's usual cuisine, it was just as delicious and eye-catching.

Fast forward to 2019, and chefs and restaurant owners all over the United States are shifting focus from fine dining to more casual places.

The role model for all of them is Danny Meyer. His Shake Shack burger chain retains its cult following despite spreading the past few years to cities around the world, even though its profit margin was hurt during the fourth quarter by higher labor costs.

In New Orleans, the latest to make the shift is Tory McPhail, the James Beard Award winning chef at Commander's Palace, often considered the city's best fine dining restaurant.

Last fall, McPhail joined forces with long-time friend Darryl Reginelli, the co-owner of a popular New Orleans pizza chain, and his employer, Ti Martin, Commanders' co-owner.

They opened Picnic Provisions and Whiskey, a corner cafe in New Orleans' Uptown neighborhood, that focuses on upscale picnic food, specifically fried chicken.

Martin's mother, the legendary restaurateur Ella Brennan, was a booster of the venture before her death last year. Her daughter assured her that Picnic Provisions would be "casual, with a touch of class."

This week, I had the chance to sample the food that McPhail created for the new venture, and it showed both his fine dining roots as well as his love for family style food.

The restaurant was smaller than you might expect from such big names — a front room with booth and tables, and a side porch where a few diners can eat, and others can play lawn games.

Our waiter was solicitous, explaining the menu items, making recommendations and willingly concocting a zero alcohol cocktail for me after asking what flavors I'd prefer. (Ginger, lime and fizzy water.)

The food was a riff on dishes you might find in many other places, but with some unique characteristics. Picnic's signature dish is crawfish boil hot fried chicken. It takes the spices that are used in traditional Louisiana crawfish boils, and applies it to boneless fried chicken.

It had a kick, but not the fire in the mouth flavor of hot fried chicken found in Nashville, and which has been spreading across the United States.

Picnic also serves its own version of boudin, the loose sausage that combines meat or vegetables with rice. But Picnic's boudin doesn't come in a casing. It's served as a side dish, although it's tasty enough to be the centerpiece of a meal.

The atmosphere was warm and comfortable, with big windows looking out on Magazine Street. The main feature of Picnic Provisions is a neon sign on the wall that reads, "You make me so happy."

It's Instagram ready, and in fact, diners at the table next to ours took turns sliding into the bench seat beneath it to pose.

Despite its pedigree, Picnic Provisions has lots of competition across New Orleans. At least a dozen new restaurants are opening here every month.

While the city still has lots of elegant, pricey restaurants, such as Commander's, the middle price range where Picnic Provisions competes is rife with choices, from traditional Cajun and Creole food, to a rapidly growing sector of restaurants inspired by Asian flavors.

That's good news for travelers who don't want to digest a glorious meal every single night. But, it also means McPhail and company will have to be on their toes as Picnic Provisions merges into the competitive chef casual landscape.