After years of hating on vodka cocktails, craft bartenders are finally coming around to the clear spirit.

It goes with more than tonic, and can be mixed in ever more intriguing ways. After years of being banished from craft cocktail bar menus, vodka is once again showing up in classic and modern concoctions across the country.

You may be asking yourself where vodka went considering the liquor’s overwhelming popularity—it makes up nearly a third of all liquor sales in America, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States—but it was oddly absent from many of the best establishments.