In our quest to review the newest and most trendy restaurant openings, let’s not forget New York’s heritage of charming family-run establishments. Whether they be American, ethnic or a charming French bistro such as Sel et Poivre (Above), they are worth revisiting, remembering and add focus to a constantly changing restaurant scene, where the venue or clientele is often the main feature.

Owner/Chef Christian Schienle, formerly at L’Absinthe, is handsome, charming and prepares classic French bistro dishes with a refined, updated flair. He has created one of the most honest value-oriented bistros in Manhattan, which will celebrate its 25th birthday in June 2014.

Go for the signature bistro classics in such delectable entrees as Brook Trout Almandine, Frog Legs a la Provencal, Pork Chop with Braised Onions and Apples in a heady calvados sauce with crispy herb roasted potatoes, tender, juicy Aged New York sirloin steak with Roquefort or Poivre sauce and crispy Duck a l’orange with wild rice. The Cassoulet is one of the best in the city and don’t miss the superbly elegant Frog legs in a pernod sauce, with wild mushrooms and basmati rice.

Inquire about the daily specials such as (Friday) Cassoulet , (Saturday) Cous Cous Royal

and (Sunday) Roasted leg of lamb.

Go easy on the excellent warm baguettes. You want to save room for the terrific desserts.

I loved the layered Chocolate Mousse, traditional Profiteroles and light and elegant Fresh Fruit Tart. There is cheese and a nice selection of sorbets as well as a terrific molten chocolate cake.

The 10-foot long custom-made L-shaped oak bar, located in the front of the Dining Room, features a predominantly French and American wine list with an international flair. It features handsome wood barstools. An impressive variety of wines are available by the glass. In addition, a premier selection of spirits,liquors, digestifs, dessert wines, imported beers,and classic cocktails are also available. The Lunch,Dinner, and Brunch Menus are available at the bar.

We found the cocktails well made and generous. Red wine glasses are attractive and large enough to allow wines such as the excellent 2010 CHATEAU LES HAUTES TUILERIES LALAND-DE-POMMEROL ($15.00, per glass) room to breathe. This is a fine red vintage wine from the Lalande de Pomerol region in Bordeaux France. Or splurge with a glass of Moet for just $14. The wine selection by the bottle is both well chosen and fairly priced.

Service and reception at the door and warm and friendly, so take our advice and revisit Sel et Poivre. If this your first time, you’re in for an affordable and eminently pleasant dining experience. A personal favorite!