I have a 1927 6 and the engine has not turned over in 40+ years? I'm 44 and i don't remember ever seeing it run. It previously ran ok though.
Anyway, I know everyone has their favorite think to pour into the cylinders via the spark plug holes. Anything different about this engine?
My first instinct would be to use Kroil or Marvels, but i know some people use some mix of ATF diesel pixie dust etc. Any suggestions on how much per cylinder? i figure i would let it sit for days or weeks. Which works out... i don't have time to work on the car today, so i'd like to start this process and let it soak.
I've only done this on 1970s motorcycles, so this is a different beast.

Your 1927 Six isn't that much different than a 1958 Plymouth Six, so pretty much the same things apply. A tablespoon or two (max) per cylinder, let it soak for as long as you have patience for. Eventually it will seep past the rings and down into the crankcase so you can add more after a week or so. What you want to avoid is having enough there to cause a compression hydraulic "lock" when the engine finally does turn over - that could do serious damage like breaking a hole in the piston tops. As to what to use, I was always a big fan or Kroil and you can't go wrong with it. MMO and kerosene is probably more effective than straight MMO because it will have more flow and creep to it.

Patience: And while you're waiting, drop the oil pan and clean it, the oil pump intake screen, and as much else as you can easily get to.

thanks Dave,
I can afford to be patient, I have plenty else to do. I'll probably add some Kroil asap. I want to get new tires on it soon as well, partly so i can move it when needed. I know there is a loooong checklist before we actually try to turn over the motor. I know from putting a hand crank on it that the motor doesn't want to move, but i didn't try to force it either. i'll let that work while i poke around at everything else.
It's also not in its permeant storage / work spot, so there's only so much i can do to it where it currently sits. which is fine, more time for the oil to work.

In addition to being patient, be gentle and use the crank and NOT the starter motor when trying to rotate the engine. Good luck and keep us posted.

Worst case, a cracked head or leaking headgasket will have allowed permanent antifreeze into a cylinder. That will cause corrosive expansion of the aluminum piston, forcing it so tightly to the cylinder wall that even with the rest of the engine disassembled, it may take near super-human effort to get it out.

Just my two cents, but If it were mine, I would be pulling that head. 40 yrs is way too much time for rust to form on the cylinder walls, you can do a lot of damage forcing those pistons up or down on rusty cylinder walls even with lubricant. As Dave said, pulling the pan can tell you a lot about how the engine may have been stored. Some of the pistons are up, some are down, so a flashlight inspection of the bottom of some of those cylinder walls can tell you a lot. You might see some streaks or staining from antifreeze having run past the rings. These engines are way to valuable to force them, and the bearings are dry too, so I would rig up a hand pump and get some oil to those bearings as well.

New here. I have never been involved in the restoration of a car.
In a fit of madness, I bought a 1927 six that hasn't run in a long time. It turns over easily by hand. Viewing from the bottom, cylinders look OK to me. I am cleaning out everything I can get my hands on. Quite messy. Removed the water jacket and there was a lot of rust that is now down to firm rust wherever I could scrape it.
Took off push rod cover and they all move. Valves all move, as seen thru the spark plug holes.
I am going to keep cleaning.
Someone suggested that removing the cover of rocker levers should not be done because it can't be replaced without dismantling the engine. (Then he said this may not be the case for a six.)
I have had the gas tank cleaned out. To bare metal, but it is not spotless. Thinking about sealing it. heard suggestions both positive and negative on this. As to the rest of the fuel system, the previous owner started to install a electric pump. I intend to go back to the gravity - vacuum system. Some of the lines are missing.
Anyway, how is your project going?
Jerry