I made this mostly for fun, and little because when I first got my Hobie 18 there were no good videos or even photos of the hard parts of rigging the Hobie 18. This web site was where I got most of my info, so I gave it a thank you on the info.

I know my verbal terminology was not so good, I would have re-dubbed it but that captions have correct terminology. I also know about the typos. Maybe Ill fix it all, but with a 1 hour compile time and 1 hour upload, it takes a long time.

Great stuff, jmecky, thank you. I'm a newbie to the H-18 and I know your videos are going to come in handy when I rig my boat for the first time in a couple of months. The one area that confuses me is the jib - The directions in the Hobie 18 manual are confusing IMO.

Cheers,

Brian

PS We had a pretty big winter blow here in CT yesterday and when I went down to the beach this morning to have my coffee I noticed several Hobies had actually blown around in their "sand slips". They were anchored but nevertheless moved 3 or 4 feet from the wind alone. One 16 had even blown off its trailer. (Whoa!!). Thankfully, I heeded this board's advise and removed the tramp for the winter. Mine hadn't moved a bit, although my beach wheels were half-burried from the drift and the slots for my tramp are now packed full of sand. Many of the other owners weren't so lucky - sagging tramps now piled high with wet, heavy sand, etc.

Though there is a MUCH SAFER WAY TO TENSION THE RIG SINGLE-HANDLY ....

Attach the main halyard to the outhaul car on the boom .... raise the boom up 3-4', by hoisting the halyard .... tie the main halyard off to the rear crossbar or or to the mast rotator as close to the "bolt" as you can .... travel the boom out to the corner ..... sheet down the boom using the mainsheet blocks until you can "pin" the shroud were you wish to on the adjuster ....

It that mast gets out of vertical .... w/ a gust of wind .... you will loose it .... it has alot of leverage on you ...... approximently 28' ....

I also suspect that you have you boat too far forward on the trailer ..... it's hard to tell from the video but if you make a sharp turn and the boat is too far forward you end up making dents in the rear quarter panel of your tow vechicle w/ the bows of the boat ....

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think your rigging your jib wrong, with the halyard and the cleat on the sail.My halyard is a two piece, so when i raise the sail I remove the long part and use the short part still attached to the wire to go down though the shackle, back up to the small block on the wire and back to the cleat on the sail.No extra line to stuff in the zipper pocket, and no need to tie an extra line to the shackle.

Kiwi,I think you and Jmecky are doing the same thing except jmecky is leaving the line he hoisted the jib with in the jib pocket. Like you, I remove the the line after the jib is raised. If you reeze frame part 2 at 2:01 you see that he does not have the short line tied thru the center of the pulley. Which will keep it attached to the halyard. I tie off at the end of the short line then the other end of the halyard for the temporary line to raise the jib, then remove the long line. He keeps it in his jib zipper pocket.

End result is the same as far as the halyard goes except by not tying off on the pulley as I suspect you do he does not get the full 3:1 purchase with the short line. Not a big deal, IMHO, because there should not be that much tension on the jib halyard anyway.

I strongly recommend the traveler rigged the way it is shown in the video. Using the tail of the main sheet is what it was designed for so when you have the main sheet in your hand you also have the line to control the traveler.

I rig my jib halyard with a second short line attached to the clew of the jib. This gives you the 3:1 purchase as noted above. I have been just putting the long full halyard bundled up inside the zippered portion of the jib just so I don't loose it. I do however have a separate speed pin (separate from the jib shackle) to hold up the forestay when I put the mast up and then the shackle with the screw pin is a double backup for the speed pin. That way if you have to remove the jib shackle the forestay still holds up the mast.

OK I do use the sister clips (prt2 2:16 1 millisecond) to raise the jib but i find that line is too thin to use in the cleat. So the only line stuffed in the jib zipper is about 18inch of thin line. I could use a thicker line with my sister clips but I like the thin line because it stows in my tramp pocket easy. Also you say its wrong but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

How thick is your two piece line kiwi?

Yes I loop the line so that when out on the tramp I only have one rope to mess with, although it can be a pain to get the other end tensioned.