1 pound bucatini (tube pasta that looks like spaghetti with a hole down the center of it) Salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 turns of the pan in a slow stream 1/4 pound, 4 or 5 slices, pancetta*, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Freshly ground black pepper Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano or Romano, to pass at the tableBring a large pot of water to a boil and salt the water.Heat a large deep skillet over medium high heat. Add oil and pancetta. Cook pancetta 2 or 3 minutes then add onions and garlic and crushed red pepper flakes. Cook 7 or 8 minutes more, until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes and parsley. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Simmer sauce over low heat until ready to serve.

Cook bucatini pasta to al dente or, with a bite to it. Drain pasta well. Do not rinse. Starchy pasta holds more sauce. Toss hot pasta with sauce and serve. Pass grated cheese at the table to top pasta.