Mark Haisma (pictured above) was,
for a decade, winemaker at Yarra Yerring with the late Dr Bailey
Carrodus. Now he’s making his own wine, acting as one of a new
breed of micronegociants in Burgundy. Mark buys grapes and makes
wine from them in rented space in a cellar in Gevrey Chambertin
(Pierre Naigeon’s).

It’s a model that a number of
passionate young winemakers are following. In Burgundy, vineyard
prices are totally crazy—and that’s when you can get your hands
on decent patches of vineyard, which hardly ever come on the market.
This makes it pretty much impossible to start out in the region. But
if you are reasonably well connected, you might be lucky enough to
purchase decent grapes, and Mark has lived in the region since 2009.

I caught up with Mark as he was showing
cask samples of his 2010s in London. This is his fourth vintage, and
he’s steadily been adding wines to his portfolio, including a 2010
Cornas which he made in the cellars of Vincent Paris. Mark sells
mostly directly to private customers, but also to some high-end wine
shops and restaurants. It’s a very organic business model. The
wines are quite lovely.

Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Croix
des Champs’ 2010 Burgundy, FranceMark sources his Gevrey from the wrong side of the RN74, but
it’s a really good terroir. Fresh and vivid with nicely savoury
berry fruits on the nose. So stylish. Real elegance on the palate
which shows fresh cherry fruit and some mineral notes. Brilliant.
92–94/100

Mark Haisma Bonnes Mares 2010
Burgundy, FranceReach, meaty, spicy and vivid with quite a bit of oak apparent
at this stage. Very sweet and aromatic. The palate is concentrated
and intense with firm tannins. So intense, this has amazing
potential for development. 93–95/100

Mark Haisma Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
2009 Burgundy, FranceSweek, silky and meaty with warm spicy notes on the nose. The
palate is rich but elegant with good structure and weight. Lovely
ripeness and lots of potential.

Mark Haisma Clos de Bèze Grand
Cru 2009 Burgundy, FranceSilky, warm and elegant with some spice and hints of earthiness.
Lovely weight and elegance to this expressive wine. 93/100

Mark Haisma Cornas 2010 Northern Rhône,
FranceFrom 65 year old vines in Les Combes vineyard, made in the
cellars of Vincent Paris. Elegant, aromatic and pure with red berry
fruits on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with fine
spiciness. Fresh and pure with a hint of pepper. Silky texture.
94/100