Rekluse shifting...

By aDayintheDirt, Posted October 22, 2009

Ok guys, i know very little about these rekluse kits. Never seen or used one and only read some of the post in the search last night. That bieng said just ordered one for my daughters new r this morning.

So when shifting...is it done on the gas, blip the throttle, or let off-shift and back on the gas? I'm sure all can be done...but is it intended for wfo gate starts?

thanks

By joneill4, Posted October 22, 2009

I believe you are supposed to let off the gas to shift

By martin truszkowski, Posted October 22, 2009

Hi, My son has run a Rekluse for 2 years now, you can shift ANYWAY you can shift on a bike with a standard clutch. You can power shift aswell as chopping the throttle and shifting or if you prefer using the clutch you can use the cluth lever. But you do not have to touch the clutch lever if you don't want to when you have the Rekluse fitted. Hope this helps .Martin

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Hi i’ve just bought a CRF150R 2008, and the bike wont idle. When i got there he was having trouble getting it to idle. Anyway i went on it but he said i had to keep on revving it in order for it to stay alive. It was fine didn’t fully open it up so couldn’t identify any other isues but i did give it some throttle but seemed fine.
So i bought it and got it home and still my self cant get it to idle. Everytime i start it it will start up and just die, and then when i go to give it throttle it just bogs out. Only the occasional time it will start up and i can keep it going but it will eventually die.
So the guy said you have to ‘prime’ it twice before you start it so i do that and it start up a bit longer and dies and then i go to go give it throttle and it bogs out no matter what.
So then i put the choke on starts right up but idles high but then as soon as i take it of choke it dies and then i go to give it throttle and it bogs out. Then only way to keep it going is to choke it and then hold the rev and turn choke off and just keep revving it like i did when i first went on it at the guys house.
I’ve looked at some suggestions on Youtube and the internet and i can’t find much, people were just saying it could be a clogged pilot jet or needing a need a new pilot jet or to change it or the air/fuel mixture screw, but the problem is i cant find it and i wouldent know how far to turn it out nor how to know what pilot jet size to get.
So i was just wondering if anyone out there could help me fix this ASAP. Not really looking to do to much maintenance as i dont wanna break anything before ive properly riden it.
Thanks Joe

Lets hear some more ride reports, Owner comments..
Update: 11/22/06.. My son got to ride his CRF150R for about 2 hours on a small track, he has raced MX, but mostly we ride trails, only go to tracks for fun. This little engine really goes.. the bottom end could use some improvement for our type of riding, but it really goes.. if it's realiabe I'll be extremely happy with the purchase. I'm looking to add two teeth to the rear sprocket & a FWW when it's available. After that I can't imagine a bettery all around bike. Transmission is very smooth, & the little engine really pulls. The jetting is lean, we added a 42 pilot & everything seems good, it might take a 45, not sure yet..it takes it a good 7-9 minutes to get warmed up good, but it was very cool when we rode it.

The bad news is that the new 150 is very loud, the good news (if any) is that it's so loud stock I doubt the aftermarket companies will be able to make it much louder.
Here's my situation: as a pro-class supermoto racer I'm fully aware that wide open exhausts make a bit more power, and I'm certainly a good enough racer to use every teensy bit of my 450's power at the track, but I'm also very aware and upset over noise issues causing track closures and the constant threat of laws banning ORV use on private property.
I purchased the new crf150r as a playbike replacement for my beloved 150f..and of course after riding the 150r I had the same initial reactions as everyone else "WOW!" better than I could have imagined, and just exactly the bike I've always wanted as a playbike blah blah blah...umm, well, except for the noise:(. I have 20 acres of woods laced with about 2 miles of trails and jumps scaled perfectly for these mid-sized bikes and my son's sx65, but even with 20 acres there is no way that my very cool neighbors wouldn't be bothered by this thing, and there's absolutely no way I'd subject them to it.
SOOO, since nobody is going to offer a truly quiet quiet exhaust, yet another do-it-myself scabrication project begins. The goal is to get very close to totally stock crf150f sound output while keeping as much of the R model's throttle steering/wheelie on demand kick ass power as possible. Enjoy.
Step 1: testing. We used a straightaway to test the stock sound. We made several passes in 4th gear, under load, adjusting our aproach speed so that we'd be in the peak power and truly truly WFO while passing the meter which was placed 50 feet to the side of the track. (a reasonable test, since several of our trails come within 50 feet of a property line) 95dbA!!, yes ninety-F'n-five decibels...at 50 feet!?..good god that IS a very loud minibike. Seems as loud as a 250, only worse since it's almost always pinned.
Step 2: Take it apart.

not much to see here, standard OEM fare, minimal perforation, minimal packing, 1.4" I.D. straight through with a slight curve in the endcap.
Step 3: Try somethin else.
We'll keep it simple and try the basics first. a) Increase exposure to the packing material..I've had great luck using expanded metal to replace stock perf-tubes, it's never ever failed me, and the packing does not burn out as fast as you'd think even on a 450. Reduce diameter. Using the new perforated section to taper down, I went from the 1.4" input down to a 1.1" output. c) Divert the flow. it's been my experience that if you let any exhaust flow pass straight through then a great deal of noise will go right along with it..so i've created a diffusing chamber within the last 1.25" of the silencer shell. Now the exhaust flow (which has already seen lots of glass and had its tunnel narrowed a bit) is split by that cone on the center of the back wall and forced to take the long way around to the two (0.7" dia.) exits.

Step 4: Results?
Same test procedure described in step 1.....85dbA. Ten decibels less!..oh, and the bike felt like it hadn't lost any power. Hmmm, off to the dyno..

All of these runs are corrected hp using the stock knobby..the stock run was done when the bike was new (not broken in yet) out of jetting curiousity, but we did not change the stock jetting. I've seen other stock dyno runs posted (20.7hp broken in with knobby, and BBR got 23hp using a smooth street tire) so my bike seems to be right in line with those other figures. Maybe these exhaust mods lost 1/2hp?..maybe nothing?..either way, -10dbA is much much quieter and also a far greater reduction than you'll ever experience with the typical "optional quiet insert" .
Unfortunately, I think WFO85dbA is still too loud for my property so I'll have to try some other solutions, but it's a great start.
-Michael
This post has been promoted to a wiki

My sons been complaining the last couple races that his brakes are little on the long side and wants me to upgrade them. I've ridden his bike before and the brakes are under par in comparison to my KX450 or my other sons KTM 65SX. I don't want to spend a bunch of money unless it's really a need so these are the options I've come up with. I'm looking for some feedback from anyone thats been down this road.
1. replace the brakes pads with a more aggressive pad & braided line $100
2. swap to the dual piston setup from a crf450R and Applied racing bracket total cost about $188 with new pads
3. oversized 240mm rotor, new pads and adapter $190
4. oversized 240mm rotor, applied racing adapter, dual piston caliper from crf450r, pads and braided lines $450 or so. (not really an option lol but would be nice)
The cheapest is option 1 but will it really solve the issue or only be a bandaid and then later I'll end up spending more money.
Any input would be great.
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