EDMONTON - All right, let’s get the “square one” shtick out of the way (wye?) quickly.

In fact, it’s just as well that the opening of this little strip mall oasis in Strathcona County happened some months back. Judging by the vitriol dispensed by at least one generally reliable reviewer and disappointed patrons, Square One’s square one apparently began on the very rocky side of soft openings.

While quibbles remain, this outpost of sentient beings a couple of doors west of London Drugs (across from an overrated Five Guys burger outlet) seems to have pulled up its knickers considerably over the winter and spring.

The interior — there’s a summer deck, too — is a study in cool (if not chilly) dark greys and slate tile, with a stylish oval bar. A local visual artist or two with inventory issues might well contribute a couple of big, bold canvasses to give the room the panache and colour it could use.

From the beginning, service on a relatively slack Monday dinner hour was enthusiastic and eager to inform and enlighten. My life partner observed sagely that she expected our server to break into a Broadway show tune and tap routine at any moment.

The Asian pork lettuce wraps ($15) and calamari tacos ($13) were selected, after being told that the surprising menu offering of aguachile — one of Mexico’s greatest dishes, at least in theory — was unavailable.

The table was divided on the merits of our starters, ranging from near-boffo to adequate-plus. I found the pork in the unexceptional filling a bit on the tough side, and surely greens other than butter lettuce would make more sense as a cup — and less of a mess. Whether or not you buy into the idea of calamari tacos, they were tasty enough, the squid cut into small, manageable pieces and nicely, lightly breaded, accompanied by a very good house salsa verde.

Still, with only three pieces to an order in each case, there are fairly serious value issues here. Perhaps those selecting entrees as well should get a break on the appies.

Slap my mouth but didn’t the BLT turn out to be the star of the show — a dish so perfect in its simplicity, ingredients and execution that I’d seriously consider an impromptu ramble across the freeway or Baseline Road for a taste. With a generous helping of delicious side bacon from the estimable Irving family farm of Round Hill, AB and delectable, lean, house-smoked back bacon on the best, crispiest, bannock this boy has ever had, here is a signature dish. Making a sacrifice solely on journalistic grounds, I chose the onion rings as a sidekick, which were delicious, not greasy and perfectly rendered.

The salmon filet with corn risotto plate — kernels and arborio, as it turned out — wasn’t much to look at (presentation doesn’t seem to be a big priority), but proved to be quite clean, well prepared and worth a re-visit. As we know, both salmon filets and risotto are regularly destroyed in kitchens across town.

I found the massive portion of ribs, also an Irving product, a bit too fatty for my taste, a verdict not shared by the generally happy prairie carnivore on board, who found them tender but did express a wish for more oregano. And while the prima donna salad (mixed greens, walnuts, grapefruit, cranberries, ricotta and toasted granola) was huge and OK, the nondescript pomegranate vinaigrette could have used some pomegranate seeds and kick, while the extra seven bucks paid for the bland, indifferently prepared shrimp was a mistake.

So too, to a degree, was the shared chocolate gratin ($8), a puddin’head of a dessert lacking the requisite pop.

Although this self-proclaimed “contemporary speakeasy” clearly specializes in exotic handmade cocktails and a righteous selection of beer, we chose a decent but (like virtually everywhere else) overpriced bottle of Tempranillo at $38. Better to go for something sudsy such as a crisp, refreshing flagon of Square One lager — custom-brewed by Ribstone Creek in Edgerton.

The two owner-operators here are Century Hospitality alumni who have aimed squarely at the turf occupied by the middle-upper-brow chains — tough sledding in a realm where consistency, style and value loom large. They seem to be making a stab at local and sustainable, too — the server said the seafood is Ocean Wise, although there is no logo on the menu — which is to be lauded if it is so. Heck, they even make their own Clamato juice.

We root for local and independent and make no apologies for it. The hope and promise is that by square 10, these plucky ones are still refining the concept and serving up more covers every month. Progress is clearly being made.

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