Not everyone will get it. The place is so low-key it’s almost invisible while Shockoe Bottom churns around it. The small, brick-walled cafe called Aziza’s on Main is wedged next to a family-run pharmacy and has only 10 tables and a bar, with a brick oven glowing in back. The atmosphere is a bit rough around the edges, but somehow that makes the contrast of elegantly personal food more acute.

Inside are served some of the city’s most flavorful, fascinating meals with a humble spirit that’s refreshing in an age of branding and bragging.

Dutch & Company
400 N. 27th St., 643-8824
Dutch & Co., adding to the destination dining of Church Hill, is among the best of the class in newcomers to the local restaurant scene. With artful European touches, a three-course menu at $28, expert service and vintage decor, it’s a gentle charmer that’s winning raves. — Deveron Timberlake

Same with the Roosevelt at 623 N. 25th St., where gently historic warmth and a subtle palette already have inspired copycats. “I always like the handsome facade at the Roosevelt and its someone’s-dining-room feel,” Basch says. “It welcomes guests warmly as soon as they step over the threshold.”