Max Mara / Fall 2012 RTW

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As a general rule in Italy, more is more. So it’s not surprising, perhaps it’s even understandable, to witness a refined and classic Milan-based house like MaxMara getting carried away with accessories. The mariners caps, knee-high buckled spats, and suspenders that accompanied the clothes in this morning’s fall show could have easily left the label lost at sea. But that wasn’t the case, thanks to a chic, new structured bag and elegant coats and sweaters that sophisticated women will be clamoring to wear on land come autumn.

Aside from the more apparent maritime references—sparkly sailor-striped tops and super appealing large-scale peacoats—there was an underlying military rigor that has been a map point for many designers this season. At casa MaxMara, the restraint of a leather pencil skirt was balanced by an alligator devoré–pattern knit turtleneck, and the straight lines of sweeping coats (welcome aboard, double-face cashmere) were as sharp as hospital corners. Towards evening is when things softened up with silky, sensual ivory cocktail dresses—long sleeves with deep necks and high slits—and pajama pants.

But back to those coats. They are where MaxMara excels, and this season, done in navy, army green, and light beige, they had roomy cocoon shapes and dropped waists anchored by smart leather belts. They gave exactly the right amount of volume for women who like the season’s oversize look but don’t want to feel like they’re drowning in their clothes.