Spanish-born designer Emilio de la Morena presented his autumn/winter 2017 collection presentation to live music by the Kennington Quartet at the BFC Showspace on the final day of London Fashion Week.

Launched in 2005, the brand has a strong celebrity following, including Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Moss, and is known for Morena’s unique blending of Spanish artisanal techniques with a London aesthetic to produce a look that is both sexy and chic.

Drawing inspiration from his Spanish heritage and a background in sculpture, the AW17 evening wear pieces were characterised by this aesthetic and strong silhouettes softened in delicate and flowing fabrics: elegant but electric.

Morena cites the flamboyance of Valencia’s and Picasso’s colour combinations produced in his late cubist portraits as points of inspiration while the cuts were informed by London’s history of smart tailoring and the ethereal quality of new romantics.

Sharp figure-hugging suits in exuberant pinstripe Jacquard (milled for the brand in Valencia) cinched in at the waist, revealing bare flesh underneath and stayed close in straight cigarette cut trousers. Dresses were cut in contrasting lines: kept tantalising short or flowing to the floor.

Lace and a confident sexuality was a dominant feature, exposing breast in sheer panels, encasing arms and layered in white and black across coloured fabrics.

Bonded silk, gazar, taffeta and tulle were used to create further textures while a range of vibrant colours petrol, cerise, fuchsia and emerald as well as softer pinks and mints were striking against a monochrome base.

Standout pieces were the floor-length black dresses whose sheer skirts flowed around the legs and showed through a flash of colour in a second short underskirt.

Gilets and coats were in a luxurious mohair, lying heavy against delicate under layers while black suede and leather boots added edge.

De la Morena’s collection is an exciting range of bold yet delicate pieces that exude a perfect balance of assured sexuality and femininity.

By Sarah Bradbury. First published on The Upcoming on 21st February 2017.
Photos: Erol Birsen