Chef Kiran Verma's plush, pretty restaurant is not for those who seek a heart-pounding dose of Indian cuisine. Like Costa Brava Bistro, Kiran's fills a fine-dining niche once occupied by Continental restaurants — updated for 21st-century Houston with a polished ethnic spin. Verma applies subtle spicing to everything from quail to lamb to Tandoori portabello, and her multicourse vegetable feast is a winner. Breads and dumplings? Curiously stodgy. But service dotes and the wine list is of more than passing interest.