Croda's new ester - superior to silicon?

The US arm of Croda has announced the launch of a new silicon
alternative, an emollient ester said to retain a silicone-like feel
while bringing greater functionality to make-up and sunscreen
products.

The US arm​ of
the British chemical ingredients company Croda has announced the
launch of a new silicon alternative, an emollient ester said to
retain a silicone-like feel while bringing greater functionality to
make-up and sunscreen products.

Crodamol STS - PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate - currently pending
patent, is being promoted as 'superior to silicone'. The company
claims the product has many of the desirable attributes of
traditional silicone, such as its shine and feel characteristics,
yet it also has a number of additional benefits not available with
silicone- non-volatile, safer to use, and has no drying effect on
the skin.

The company also states that the product is easily emulsified
and can stabilise high silicone load emulsions. In addition, phase
separation time experiments are claimed to have shown their product
to have a wider compatibility with other ingredients and better
dispersibility in water.

Unlike silicon, Crodamol STS shows little spontaneous spreading
on skin, forming films that aid in sunscreen deposition and help
reduce dry-off of essential oils, concluded Croda, adding that it
is also able to wet pigments, giving it more multi-functionality in
either make-up or sunscreen products.

Meanwhile, in Europe, Croda​ announced last month the introduction of two new
sugar-derived polyester emollients for skincare. The company claims
that the mild, high molecular-weight sucrose esters - Crodaderm S
(sucrose polysoyate) and Crodaderm B (sucrose polybehenate)- have
been shown to deliver consumer perceptible benefits in terms of
skin-feel, softness and smoothness.

Crodaderms are produced from naturally-derived vegetable oil and
sucrose feedstocks. Designed to improve moisturisation, skin
elasticity and suppleness, while providing a clean skin feel,
according to Croda, due to the slow spreading, semi-occlusive
nature of their films, the new products are also expected to give
better actives deposition and have a protective effect on the skin
barrier.

Both products are said to show wide compatibility with oils and
other non-polar materials and possess good wax solvency. Setting
them apart from some conventional esters, Crodaderms can can also
increase viscosity in certain oil-in-water emulsions. Crodaderm B,
a solid based on C22 fatty acid chains is described as particularly
useful as an oil phase gellant.

Recommended applications include sun care, baby care and
specialist treatment products, as well as skin moisturisers and
cleansers.