Not a fan of cramped tables and half-baked prix fixe menus on Valentine's Day? We don't blame you, especially if you're game to make this elegant Italian pudding from Bob Truitt, who oversees the dessert program at Marea and other restaurants in Michael White's Altamarea Group. The budino alone is wonderful, but accessorizing it with the Campari-scented grapefruit peel and toasted, sugar-slicked hazelnuts makes it worthy of a white tablecloth.