> First off, thank you all very much. Ok, I am planning on doing a
> Polish
> Hussar's coat with a Rectangular pattern as per all the sites I
> have
> seen posted on the internet. I will cut the rectangle (front &
> back all
> one piece), cut 4 (right?) trinagle gussets, slit the front for the
> opening, cut the neck hole, and slit the back for a riding slit.
> If I
> cut the slit, instead of using a 2 piece back, then when I sew the
> hem
> on each side of the slit, I will have a gap from missing fabric and
> it
> won't hang right (IMHO). I guess I could use bias tape or some
> such. I
> figure this is probably the answer to keep the edges the same. If
> anybody has a better idea for anything I have mentioned, I would be
> very
> grateful.
>
> Thanks again,
> Sergei

Yeah, this is an approach. I've always found turning bias tape at
the apex of the slit difficult, but I'm sure you'll figure something
out. Another approach (and one that might actually save fabric,
depending on how you cut) is to do a center back seam. That'll solve
the issues with it hanging oddly.

You do want right triangles for the gussets; make sure to cut them
bigger than you think you'll need, because you'll want to allow for
seam allowance on all three sides.

Also, cut the neck opening *before* you slit the front; it'll be
easier to handle. In fact, if you're finishing the neck with a
facing, you can stitch that to the place where you want the neckline
first, then cut inside the stitching. That way you can stitch where
you want the neckline to fall and not worry about allowing for seam
allowance.

How are you closing the front? That might make a difference on how
you finish it. You might have to add a bit to get a good-looking
overlap.

I find bias tape and quilt binding invaluable for finishing raw edges
and trimming garb. Also, if your fabric has a tendency to ravel,
zigzag stitch along the edges. That'll keep it from coming apart
before you get the garment finished. (I'm using rayon for a court
outfit, and it was coming apart in my hands until I zigzagged it.)

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Let me know if you
have any other questions.