Got the mounts in place. Definitely a two person job. Turns out the flywheel was binding on the torque converter studs. Took the perfect amount of floor jack on the passenger's side manifold, oil pan, transmission pan, and engine hoist, but it finally slid into place. After a moment of panic when I realized the bellhousing adapter plate had misaligned on one side, we managed to use a prybar to get a little space between the bellhousing and engine, then a hammer to smack the adapter plate back into its slot. Wasn't looking forward to pulling the engine back off the mounts to get that right, so I'm glad that the hammer once again solved my problems.

Everything else under the truck went fairly smoothly. Add a bellhousing bolt to the missing bolts list. Hopefully be able to find one in the junkyard tomorrow. Had to silicone one of the recessed terminals on the starter back into place after using a punch to break a rusted screw loose, since it was ghetto rigged by the previous owner (much like everything else on this truck) and had to be cut, so fingers crossed that doesn't catch on fire.

Spent another couple hours tonight fighting the V band clamps on the turbo. The downpipe was fine, but the up pipe clamp got pretty tweaked on removal, so it was a fight to get back into place. I'm pretty sure it's in place, and that's going to have to be good enough until I can start the truck to see what explodes.

I swear this thing has fought me tooth and nail every step of the way, and I know I've said this before, but I genuinely believe that it's all downhill from here. There's nothing else to get into place except hoses and electrical stuff. I'm sure there will be setbacks there, but the biggest issues so far have been getting the big heavy stuff into place and that should all be done. Not sure how much I'll get to work on it tomorrow. I was really hoping to have it wrapped up by Monday so I could say I was only a week behind schedule, but not sure if that's realistic or not. Based on how this has gone so far, I'll spend four hours trying to get some stupid little thing to work.

Picked up a foot or so of 3/8 injector line and heavy duty hose clamps to replace the busted fuel hose. Would still appreciate some input on whether or not that will fly. And just to be sure, the line that runs to the top of the fuel bowl will be the delivery line, and from the bottom is the return line, correct? Anyone know which of those lines is the blue one that fell apart on me, so I don't end up with things backwards?

B-T-W.....KEEP IT GOING.....YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED WITH THE SWAP.....JUST A FEW BOLTS TO GO.....

Cost and availability. The t444e was available at a junkyard 10 miles away, with 114k for $1,500. a comprable powerstroke would have been significantly more expensive, and I would have had to go further to get it. I think you could also make an argument that the bus motor was more well-maintained, and International didn't tune them hard from the factory anyway. However, with how this swap has been going, it may have been worth the extra money and time. It's a straightforward swap, but it's labor-intensive and everything that can fight has fought. If I had to do it over again, I'm honestly not sure what I would do.

Cost and availability. The t444e was available at a junkyard 10 miles away, with 114k for $1,500. a comprable powerstroke would have been significantly more expensive, and I would have had to go further to get it. I think you could also make an argument that the bus motor was more well-maintained, and International didn't tune them hard from the factory anyway. However, with how this swap has been going, it may have been worth the extra money and time. It's a straightforward swap, but it's labor-intensive and everything that can fight has fought. If I had to do it over again, I'm honestly not sure what I would do.

Just need to put the front end together and it's done.

ARE THE MOTORS VIRTUALLY THE SAME.....

DO YOU HAVE TO SWAP THE INJECTORS ALONG WITH THE EXTERNAL PARTS AND ATTACHMENTS THAT YOU HAVE LISTED IN THIS THREAD?....

IS THE HORSEPOWER OF THE INTERNATIONAL MOTOR EQUAL TO THE FORD MOTOR?....

They're the exact same block and internals. Horsepower and torque differences were a matter of tuning, International ran them at less horsepower but more torque. Injectors in the 444E are ADs, whereas the truck originally had ABs. Should run fine, might be able to get more out of them with a tune but I doubt that will be in the budget on this truck since I still don't plan to own it for very long. It's a shame, since the motor will probably be solid for years to come, but the rust and the transmission scare me. Hopefully I should be able to sell this for what I have in it and move on to something else when the time comes.

Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.

Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?

Aight. Intercooler and piping, intake, radiator, batteries, and AC condenser went back into place today. Filled it up with oil. It immediately began dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover. Didn't even think about the rear main seal when doing this, so add that to the list of things you should definitely do when you have the engine out. Seemed to stop dripping almost immediately after I stopped pouring, so hopefully it's something I can ignore and get away with.

Went to start the truck. Turned the key. Power came on, fuel pump ran. For about three seconds, then everything died. No lights on dash, no interior lights or turn signals, nothing. Like the batteries are disconnected. Batteries in my multimeter were dead as well, so I couldn't test the batteries, but I'm fairly confident they're good. No fuses blown. Has to be something I either connected wrong or didn't connect at all. There's two smaller ground wires that branch off the main battery to block ground on the passenger's side. Didn't know where they went, so I left them disconnected thinking I'd see what didn't work, and that I really just wanted to see if this thing is going to run at all. Since that's an obvious point to start, even though I don't think that's it, could someone tell me where the leads on that passenger's side cable are supposed to go?

Crossing mine too! I have no idea where most of this wiring goes, so it was sort of a "well this looks likely and makes sense, so let's try it" kind of thing. Until I can figure out what fuse blew or harness melted, and then fix the cause (that's gonna be the real issue), it remains a paperweight. A very heavy, expensive, frustrating paperweight.

Got my electrical stuff sorted out. Turns out that if you ground the glow plug relay instead of going to the starter relay in a fit of ineptitude, bad things happen. Also got the RH battery cable properly grounded. That fixed that. Unfortunately, that means that the fuel pump was able to run, and allow one of the feed lines to do a pretty decent Old Faithful impression. Had to get new seals for that. $30 for some little bits of rubber is offensive, but it fixed that.

Tonight it was time to crank it. Took 30 seconds or so of cranking, spread out over two or three attempts, but it fired up and ran. Smoked like crazy from somewhere around the turbo, so I'm guessing that I didn't get the up pipe clamp on right. Didn't have any coolant in it so I shut it down pretty much immediately after it found idle.

And noticed a torrential oil flow from the flywheel inspection cover. Like, multiple streams. Stopped almost immediately after the truck was shut down. It didn't occur to me to check the rear main while the engine was out, but plenty of regrets now. Hoping it's something like a line that's not connected right, but given the remarkable quantity of oil that it lost in 5 seconds of running, I don't have high hopes.

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