Double Awesome ($7)

Think of this as Mei Mei's breakfast sandwich: a thin, flaky scallion pancake spread with pesto and folded around melted cheddar and a perfectly runny egg (poached ahead of time in an immersion circulator). The sriracha ketchup is optional, and (I think) unnecessary.

Beef Dumplings ($7.50)

Hand-rolled, well-seared potsticker-type dumplings with plush Adam's Farm braised beef. The sriracha rice is good and sticky (though not sticky rice, per se), and the pickles are bright and punchy.

Magical Kale Salad ($5)

This dish was my first true love from Mei Mei's menu. I don't know if it's the tender, salty clean-tasting local feta; the garlicky panko; or the perfect poached egg, but kale has never tasted so good (and I like kale a lot). This is a must-order.

Pork Fu Bun ($4.50)

Pork floss reminds of a combination of pulled pork and jerky—shreds that are at once tender and really dehydrated. It matches up really nicely with the tanginess of the spicy rhubarb sauce and pickles. The only letdown? The steam bun, which was on the dry side.

Barley Salad ($4.50)

Not just any barley salad, though. This one has the creamy texture of risotto, pickled dried cranberries, tons of cilantro, and shards of homemade spicy peanut brittle. Those stir-ins make it a pretty sweet salad, but it's also refreshing and complex.

Sweet Corn Fritters (4 for $4)

There are sweet corn kernels in there, but the really impressive part is the flavor of the batter: rich, toasty, true corn flavor, thanks to a combination of Four Towns Farm cornmeal and masa. The sriracha aioli is just right.

The food isn't ordinary, and neither are the drinks. A mixture of whole milk, maple syrup, and ice cubes, the Woodsman's Refresher tastes like a runny milkshake. It's my new favorite summer drink; I've made multiple hack versions at home. The Punch is great, too: a tangy but balanced cocktail of apple cider vinegar, bitters, and honey.

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