There was something that felt a bit like an Army medic or a Girl Scout at the Ostwald Helgason show, even though the notes point to East Germany. Maybe the clash between the scarcity in the region before the toppling of the wall and the longing for beauty there is akin to how a particularly creative woman might do to individualize and feminize her uniform -- adding crocheted embellishments to the collar, and switching drab polos out with glinting thread -- but that's at least what it felt like. Even the color palette, military green and cargo beige to a burnt orange and sky blue, as well as the fabrications, burlap to organza, told this story.

But no matter which story you looked to, there was a heavy utility focus with Velcro straps and oversized pockets amongst them, and a dash of sex appeal with wrap skirts exposing the upper thigh while slashed back seams of button-ups put on a little show. The result was beautiful in a Solange knowledge, quirky type of way. In fact, it seemed she was present there on the runway as a baby blue version of her MET Gala look done in organza flitted amongst the procession.