Obsessed M3https://obsessedm3.com
All things BMW, Car Care, and more!Mon, 10 Dec 2018 00:44:21 +0000en-UShourly1https://wordpress.org/?v=5.0.3BMW Releases New Individual Visualizerhttps://obsessedm3.com/bmw-releases-new-individual-visualizer/
https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-releases-new-individual-visualizer/#respondWed, 21 Nov 2018 18:31:32 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2316 When I was ordering my Hera Mica Blue M3, the original BMW Individual Visualizer was a great tool for me, especially seeing as it was the way in which I was able to get the paint code that my CA needed to get the color approved. The downside, however, was that the original visualizer […]

When I was ordering my Hera Mica Blue M3, the original BMW Individual Visualizer was a great tool for me, especially seeing as it was the way in which I was able to get the paint code that my CA needed to get the color approved. The downside, however, was that the original visualizer only allowed you to view different paint options, nothing more, nothing less. BMW’s new visualizer is nothing short of amazing, allowing you to pick from 100+ paint choices, extra wheel options, and even the ability to visualize bicolor leather options. At time of writing, the tool is limited to customizing 5, 7, and certain M series models.

To use the tool, you start by picking your Series, Bodystyle, and Model, once selected, you begin customization by picking your wheels.

Next, you move on to Body Paints, where you’ll have the option to pick from “Serial Paints”, meaning non-individual, standard choices, or “Special Paints”. “Special Paints” contains over 100 colors that you can visualize on the car of your choosing. It’s also a great way to see the colors that are currently in the BMW Individual collection.

After paint, you move on to the interior. For certain models, you’ll be presented with a “Special Upholstery” option, which is where things really get exciting. This section not only allows you to see all of the different ways in which you can configure seats using a bicolor design, but to also actually choose your two colors and the deviated stitching color. I’ve chosen Mugello Red as my primary, with Black as a secondary and stitching color. Once configured, the visualizer will show you exactly what your new interior will look like.

Lastly, you’ll have the choice to pick your trim and any other options like MPerformance parts or other upgrades.

Overall, this new tool from BMW is an amazing asset to buyers looking to order their new cars with individual options. Previously, individual options were sometimes hard enough just to find out about, and even harder to visualize. Now, you can customize to your heart’s content and get a good look at what your next BMW might look like.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-releases-new-individual-visualizer/feed/0The Sun Joe SPX9004 In Depth Review, Great Value or Total Bust?https://obsessedm3.com/the-sun-joe-spx9004-in-depth-great-value-or-total-bust/
https://obsessedm3.com/the-sun-joe-spx9004-in-depth-great-value-or-total-bust/#commentsThu, 15 Nov 2018 03:09:51 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2307The purchase of my Sun Joe SPX9004 was admittedly rather unplanned for me. I didn’t need a new pressure washer, and I certainly hadn’t been looking for one, when suddenly, the opportunity to buy this unit at nearly half off retail presented itself. Intrigued by its higher flow rate and brushless induction motor, I decided […]

]]>The purchase of my Sun Joe SPX9004 was admittedly rather unplanned for me. I didn’t need a new pressure washer, and I certainly hadn’t been looking for one, when suddenly, the opportunity to buy this unit at nearly half off retail presented itself. Intrigued by its higher flow rate and brushless induction motor, I decided to take the plunge and see how this compared to my Ryobi 1,600psi 1.2gpm unit. The SPX9004 is 1,300psi and 2.0gpm as listed by Sun Joe, which is very similar to the Kranzle K1322TS which comes in at 1,300psi and 2.1gpm.

Before I get into the unit itself, I have to say that the way Amazon chooses to ship this product is horrendous. They appear to be shipping the original SunJoe box inside of a much larger, essentially empty box with no padding. My first unit came damaged, but the second delivery was okay.

Firstly, we need to address what is seemingly the largest “problem”, if you want to call it that, with this unit; the lack of a start/stop system. Given that this unit isn’t nearly as loud as a cheaper Ryobi or Sun Joe with a universal motor, I don’t find this to be all that much of an issue. My solution for the time being was this remote control, that I simply leave in my pocket while I’m washing my car. Whenever I need to shut the unit off, I just slap the button thru my pocket, easy. I am currently looking into retrofitting a pressure or flow switch to remedy this, but in the meantime, I’m very happy with the remote control. You’ll come to realize very quickly that you don’t need to shut it off all that often, mainly just in between large steps, like going from wheels to washing, wash to rinse, etc.

Foam produced by the MATCC foam cannon attached to the SPX9004

Compared to my Ryobi, the increase in flow makes for a noticeable difference both in foam and rinsing the car. The foam produced by this pressure washer is incredibly thick, and will stick to even a clean, coated vehicle. When it comes time to rinse, you won’t be disappointed either, you can rinse off a vehicle fairly quickly. While the pressure is lower than the Ryobi, its largely unimportant for the sole task of washing a car. I would probably not recommend this if you’re looking to also use it to clean siding, concrete, etc.

As far as the included accessories go, I’ve chosen not to use them. I’m sure they’re fine if you don’t want to spend any more money, but for me, an upgraded, longer hose, and an MTM gun are musts. If you’d like to upgrade your SPX9004 accessories to the same setup as what I’m running, here is your shopping list:

Here are some guidelines for how to put everything together. First, start by preparing the hose. Take the M22 to 3/8 male NPT adapters and put them on each end of the Uberflex. Next, you’ll attach a 3/8 female NPT to 3/8 Female QD adapter onto each side of the hose into the M22 to 3/8 adapters you just installed. Now your hose is prepped with QD’s for easy removal and storage. Next, take the M22 15mm to 3/8 QD male plug and attach it to the outlet on the SunJoe unit. Lastly, we’ll get all of the QD’s we need attached to the MTM gun. Attach the 3/8 male NPT to 3/8 male QD plug to the inlet of the SGS-28, then attach the 1/4 male NPT to 1/4 female QD to the outlet side. At this point, all of your QD’s are installed and you’re ready to fire it up and check for leaks. If you have none, you’re all set! If you do, make sure you used adequate teflon tape, if you did, and you’re still experiencing leaks, inspect the threads of your plugs and adapters, I found one was damaged, so I had to replace it. I also opted to put a QD on the inlet, making attaching the pressure washer to my hose easier. I like these metal QD’s from Gardena.

This setup works if you’re not planning on using a hose reel, if you are, and need advice on what you need, leave a comment below and I’ll try to help out the best I can.

All in all, I’m incredibly happy with this purchase, but more so at the specific price that I paid for it. I think at around $200, you can’t beat this, and even at $300, its a decent deal, but I don’t know if I would want it at the full retail price of $400. The main reason for this is simple, after upgrading the hose and gun, you’re getting close to the cost of just spending a little bit more to get something like the Comet Static, which has a built in reel and wall mounting solution. Don’t mistake this sentiment for me not liking the product, however. I really do think it works well, the noise is low compared to the standard cheap electric washers, and if you can get it on sale, its a no brainer in my opinion. The real test will be in longevity, which is something I’ll report back on periodically.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/the-sun-joe-spx9004-in-depth-great-value-or-total-bust/feed/2Gyeon Q2 Syncro: Product Review and Application Guidehttps://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-syncro-product-review-and-application-guide/
https://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-syncro-product-review-and-application-guide/#commentsSat, 08 Sep 2018 01:28:26 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2292After having such a great experience with Gyeon Pure, which I reviewed about a month ago, I decided to give Gyeon’s highest end consumer coating a try. Like Pure, Gyeon Q2 Syncro is another new coating package for Gyeon’s 2018 lineup. Syncro consists of 2 coatings, Mohs, and Skin. Mohs is a durable coating, with […]

]]>After having such a great experience with Gyeon Pure, which I reviewed about a month ago, I decided to give Gyeon’s highest end consumer coating a try. Like Pure, Gyeon Q2 Syncro is another new coating package for Gyeon’s 2018 lineup. Syncro consists of 2 coatings, Mohs, and Skin. Mohs is a durable coating, with impressive chemical resistance as well as great hydrophobic properties on its own. Skin goes on top of Mohs to add both slickness and an even more insane hydrophobic effect (we’ll touch on this later). The expected durability of Syncro is 24 months as per Gyeon, but since Mohs on its own is already a well known product, I’ve heard of it lasting longer than that.

Application

Like my last guide, I won’t fully be going over prep, but just touching on it lightly. If you want to get an idea on what it takes to fully prep a car for a coating from start to finish, check out Matt Moreman’s YouTube series on New Car Prep. I do want to stress how important it is that the surface is bare and clean of any oils or sealants before coating the car. If your car is already swirl-free and you feel confident that the paint you have is the paint you’re ready to lock in with this coating, I would still recommend that you go over the car with a finishing polish (I like Sonax Perfect Finish) to remove whatever your current LSP is. Whether it’s a Polymer sealant like Sonax Polymer NetShield, or a ceramic spray coating like HydroSilex Recharge or Gyeon CanCoat, you’ll need it to be removed. After that finishing polish, you’ll want to wipe down with either Gyeon Prep or IPA. I recommend doing a full car wipe down, and then going over it quickly a second time to ensure nothing was missed. If you are fully correcting your car before coating, nothing changes in terms of the final steps I’ve mentioned here, just be sure to get that paint clean and bare!

Once the paint is bare and ready to be coated, put your gloves on. This isn’t something to skip, your hands will get product on them and will feel horrible if you don’t use gloves. Next, get your Mohs bottle out, as well as your applicator block and one suede. Mohs is not a coating that can be applied one whole panel at a time, you’re going to want to section things out. I did the doors of my F80 M3 in 3 sections, the roof in 4, and most other parts of the car in 2-3 sections. Use your common sense here, something like a trunk is small enough to do in 2 sections, but a rear bumper should be broken into 3 or 4 depending on size.

To begin, place around 5 or 6 decent sized drops of Mohs on your suede. Mohs is meant to go on thick, and having a lot of product won’t make removal any more difficult. Once you have product on the applicator, pick a starting point and cross hatch the product at least 3 times. I found that by the third cross hatch, the product would start to flash and it would be the perfect time to remove. Grab your high pile microfiber towel and start to buff off the coating about 10 seconds after you finish applying. Depending on temperature and humidity, you might want to adjust this wait time, I was working in the low 70’s with about 55-60% humidity. The coating is bonded in the first 5 seconds, so anything after that is now just us trying to pick a time that makes removal of the leftover carriers easiest.

Once you’ve completed buffing that specific section, take either a penlight or your phone’s flashlight and inspect the area you’ve just buffed for any high spots or streaks. Remove any spots that you see before moving on to the next section. These areas will be very easy to see, and will look similar to hologramming. Now that any high spots are removed, you’re ready to move on and repeat this process for the next part of your panel and the rest of the car. Err on the side of overlapping when coating the next part of your panel. Don’t worry about getting your invisible line on the car perfect, you just want to be sure that you didn’t miss anything and putting more coating on top of the section you just coated won’t hurt anything. Once you complete this process around the whole car, you’re ready to move on to your second coat. A minimum of 2 coats of Mohs is required for Syncro, with a maximum of 3 allowed. There is a minimum wait time of 1 hour between coats, but at this point if you go back and start over going in the same order as you just went, an hour will have most likely gone by.

Once you’re done applying 2 or 3 coats of Mohs, you’re ready to move on to applying Skin. Note that you’ll want to wait a minimum of 4 hours between your last coat of Mohs and your first coat of Skin, I waited overnight. Skin is incredibly satisfying to use and leaves your paint feeling incredibly slick. I did at first, however, have a bit of a tricky time applying Skin. I was having issues with not being able to remove the product completely and it leaving smears of product as I tried to remove it. After some quick advice from Jeff at Gyeon USA, I was all set and was able to finish things out with no more problems.

For the application of Skin, you’ll want to first make sure you’re using a new suede, and that you switch suedes frequently (every few panels) throughout application, thats why there are so many included. Take the bottle of Skin and flip it over pressing the dropper directly into your suede. Run the bottle along the length of the suede, down the middle, to create one, thin line of product. My original issue was that I was using too much. Much like Mohs, you’ll want to break up your panels for the application of Skin, but you can extend it a bit further. I applied skin in fast, cross hatching patterns, keeping my hand constantly moving. You’ll see that after about 4 or 5 cross hatches, the product will almost start to disappear. Once you reach this point, grab your high pile microfiber and immediately start to buff off the coating. You’ll immediately feel the slickness and you absolutely know where you have and haven’t applied Skin. Once you complete this process around the whole car, you’re done!

When you’ve finished coating the car, give it a once-over with your flashlight to check for any high spots you may have missed. If you do see one, you’ll most likely need to hand polish that area and re-apply, as the coating will have set. Lastly, you can choose to apply Gyeon Cure to help protect the coating while its curing. This is more so necessary if you are parking the car outside, as Cure will serve as a barrier to help prevent water spots or contamination. Past this, Cure can be used every few months to keep the health of the coating up and keep it contamination free, serving as a sacrificial layer.

At this point, if you have a garage, I’d recommend leaving it inside for 24 hours to give the initial drying phase some time to occur without any outside influence. If not, don’t worry, the car will be fine outside, but if possible, avoid driving it for a little while. Keep in mind that you should consider the weather if you don’t have a garage. Don’t apply the product on a Monday evening if you know it’s going to rain on Tuesday, etc, etc.

My Thoughts

Beading shot of Gyeon Syncro.

Gyeon Syncro overall was a breeze to use in moderate temperature and humidity conditions. I coated my entire F80 M3 sans the front bumper and hood, which have another coating on them that I’m testing. I found Mohs to be incredibly forgiving and easy to work with. The coating can be applied thick (and should be), however, despite using so much product, removal is still incredibly easy. If you accidentally overuse other products, they can be difficult to remove without smearing, this is not the case with Mohs. As for Skin, while its hydrophobic effect and slickness are amazing, I did have a bit of a tricker time removing it. This is simply due to a misunderstanding in directions, and was easily remedied using the trick from Jeff that I mentioned above.

As far as beading and hydrophobicity go, the contact angle of this coating is insane, and the water flies off quickly and easily using less power than I normally do on my EGO electric blower. People who love tight beading will not be disappointed at all with this coating. Durability is yet to be seen, but I will be updating the blog in due time with photos and video of the coating as it ages. If this coating holds up for its advertised amount of time, I think this makes a great option for those of us who want the best that consumer grade products can offer. In my case, my car stays outside 24/7, so I want to make sure it is protected from the elements as best as it possibly can be, for as long as it possibly can be.

That’s all for this review! If you have any questions regarding the usage or Gyeon Syncro or any of the methods discussed, leave a comment below. Until the next review, I leave you with this video of rinsing and blow drying at my first wash with Syncro.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-syncro-product-review-and-application-guide/feed/2BMW Spotlight: Jarrett’s San Marino Blue F80 M3https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-jarretts-san-marino-blue-f80-m3/
https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-jarretts-san-marino-blue-f80-m3/#respondSun, 12 Aug 2018 13:38:41 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2275Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like? Ordered. I had a 2015 M3 in the same color and I got a 2018 when the lease was up in the same color. I originally saw […]

]]>Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like?

Ordered. I had a 2015 M3 in the same color and I got a 2018 when the lease was up in the same color. I originally saw an M6 driving on a summer day in front of me and knew when I could get my next BMW that I wanted it in that color. I waited around 4 months the first time and a little less the second.

Why this car? What drew you to the specific model that you picked?

I’ve always been a BMW fan. My first car was a 2003 325xi in gray, from there I got a 2011 335 in Lemans Blue. That was when I realized I really liked blue cars. From the time I owned my first BMW I knew I wanted to move up the range and looked forward to the time when I could afford an M car. I had considered many M cars previously, like an E90 M3 or E60 M5 in Interlagos. When the time came where it made financial sense, those cars were no longer easy to find in a manual and I also was drawn by the power and aggressive looks of the new F80 M3.

Did you face any challenges modding the car? Any tips or tricks for anyone looking at purchasing some of the same items you’ve installed?

Not particularly. I didn’t actually do any of the hard stuff myself. I stopped working on my cars heavily when I met some good techs and realized doing things on a lift is a lot easier. I’ve previously done suspensions, downpipes, custom meth installations and various other engine work in the driveway and have learned how things never go as planned. I still do all the installation of external mods like lips, side skirts and minor engine stuff like tunes and intakes. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy working on my car, but since I don’t own a lift it makes doing certain things not enjoyable. I’ve lent a hand while installing suspension and downpipes but working with a tech makes things go a lot smoother.

As for purchasing I spent a lot of time reading and reviewing vendors on the forums and picking my parts carefully. Checking with others who had previously bought parts is always a good idea to see that the fitment or quality is actually as good as the photos.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-jarretts-san-marino-blue-f80-m3/feed/0Gyeon Q2 Pure: Product Review and Application Guidehttps://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-pure-product-review-and-application-guide/
https://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-pure-product-review-and-application-guide/#respondTue, 24 Jul 2018 20:56:13 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2255 While my M3 has been coated with Ceramic Pro for several months now, I always enjoy trying new products and seeing what the latest offerings can do. Gyeon Q2 Pure is a new coating in Gyeon’s 2018 lineup, replacing Q2 Prime. It is positioned to be their first level of the “Professional” line of […]

While my M3 has been coated with Ceramic Pro for several months now, I always enjoy trying new products and seeing what the latest offerings can do. Gyeon Q2 Pure is a new coating in Gyeon’s 2018 lineup, replacing Q2 Prime. It is positioned to be their first level of the “Professional” line of coatings, with Syncro being the top of the pro series. Gyeon does an excellent job of marketing their coatings appropriately and ensuring that the right people are going to be buying the right products. Recently, I had the opportunity to coat a friends M240i with this coating, as well as apply it to my trunk and diffuser for the purpose of comparing it to my Ceramic Pro coating.

First, a quick note about what Pure is. Pure is a Si02 (Silica Dioxide) based coating meant to provide chemical resistance, a glossy finish, and excellent self-cleaning abilities, all while remaining fairly easy to install. Pure is made to be installed in a single, thick layer, making it incredibly convenient for mobile detailers and high-end DIYers alike. Gyeon advertises it as lasting 18 months or 15,000 miles, which will prove impressive if it holds up that long with regular maintenance.

Application

Moving on to the application, we’ll first touch on prep. While I won’t be going fully over prep in this guide, I do want to stress how important it is that the surface is bare and clean of any oils or sealants before coating the car. If your car is already swirl-free and you feel confident that the paint you have is the paint you’re ready to lock in with this coating, I would still recommend that you go over the car with a finishing polish (I like Sonax Perfect Finish) to remove whatever your current LSP is. Whether it’s a Polymer sealant like Sonax Polymer NetShield, or a ceramic spray coating like HydroSilex Recharge or Gyeon CanCoat, you’ll need it to be removed. After that finishing polish, you’ll want to wipe down with either Gyeon Prep or IPA. I recommend doing a full car wipe down, and then going over it quickly a second time to ensure nothing was missed. If you are fully correcting your car before coating, nothing changes in terms of the final steps I’ve mentioned here, just be sure to get that paint clean and bare!

Once the paint is bare and ready to be coated, we can get our gloves on, our coating bottles out, and begin the process. Pure is not a coating that can be applied one whole panel at a time, you’re going to want to section things out. I did the hood of the M240 in 4 sections, the doors in 3, and most other parts of the car in 2-3 sections. Use your common sense here, something like a trunk is small enough to do in 2 sections, but a rear bumper should be broken into 3 or 4 depending on size.

To begin, place 4 or 5 drops on the top of your applicator, enough to make a dot about the size of a quarter. I’ve used the included foam block with microfiber suede. Once you have your dot, start at on your chosen panel making either an up and down or a left to right motion, you don’t need to lift the application in between passes. You do not need to crosshatch this coating. Once you’ve covered your desired area, wait 5-10 seconds and then go back and make circular motions using the applicator in the area you just covered, following the same up and down or left and right motion. This method was outlined by Jeff from Gyeon in this Detailed Image guide, and it makes install a breeze. Click through to see Jeff’s method in further detail.

Showing the motion you should be making when applying. Up and down OR left and right, but not both. We can just pretend I was wearing gloves in this photo. I was being admittedly lazy since I was only coating my trunk and not the whole car.

Next, you’ll want to wait a few seconds and then begin your wipe off. The time to wait can vary based on your humidity, the higher the humidity, the faster you’ll want to begin wiping. It’s worth noting that the bond between the coating and your paint takes place in the first 3-5 seconds, after that, it’s all about picking a time that makes the leftover solvent carriers easy to remove. Too little time and it’ll be wet and will streak easily, too much time and it will become tacky and hard to buff. I found that waiting about 5 seconds produced great results for me in slightly above 60% humidity. I also recommend using a hile pile microfiber, as it absorbs the solvents very well and left me with no streaking.

This is what Pure looks like right before its ready to be buffed off, its incredibly easy to see and you should have no problem missing any spots when removing.

Once you’ve completed buffing that specific section, take either a penlight or your phone’s flashlight and inspect the area you’ve just buffed for any high spots or streaks. Remove any spots that you see before moving on to the next section. These areas will be very easy to see, and will look similar to hologramming. Now that any high spots are removed, you’re ready to move on and repeat this process for the next part of your panel and the rest of the car. Err on the side of overlapping when coating the next part of your panel. Don’t worry about getting your invisible line on the car perfect, you just want to be sure that you didn’t miss anything and putting more coating on top of the section you just coated won’t hurt anything.

Pure after being buffed off. As you can see, we have a perfect, deep finish, with no visible coating streaks or high spots.

When you’ve finished coating the car, give it a once-over with your flashlight to check for any high spots you may have missed. If you do see one, you’ll most likely need to hand polish that area and re-apply, as the coating will have set. Lastly, you can choose to apply Gyeon Cure on top of the coating to help Pure cure without disturbance from the outside world and to prevent water spotting during the curing time. You can apply Cure 1 hour after you’ve finished coating your last panel. Cure should be sprayed (1-2 sprays per 2×2 section should do) directly into a clean microfiber towel and buffed into the paint. It will create an incredibly slick feel on the surface and you’ll know if you missed any areas.

At this point, if you have a garage, I’d recommend leaving it inside for 24 hours to give the initial drying phase some time to occur without any outside influence. If not, don’t worry, you the car will be fine outside, but if possible, avoid driving it for a little while. Keep in mind that you should consider the weather if you don’t have a garage. Don’t apply the product on a Monday evening if you know it’s going to rain on Tuesday, etc, etc.

My Thoughts

Gyeon Pure was an absolute breeze to use both in controlled and less than ideal environments. The M240i was coated in a friends garage, with the garage door open, so the only benefit I gained being inside was having some cover from the elements and no chance of anything falling from trees landing on the car. The trunk of my M3 was done indoors, at a local shop that is gracious enough to let me use a little bit of space to work.

I found wipe off to be incredibly easy in terms of the coating not making a streaky mess. It does take a little elbow grease, but your effort will not be for nothing when you finally look at your results under light. For most panels, I was able to get nearly all of the excess solvent carriers off with just one buffing pass of the towel. As far as beading and hydrophobicity go, the contact angle of this coating is very impressive, and the water flew off very quickly using an air blower to dry the car. I don’t think that beading lovers will be disappointed at all with this coating. Durability is yet to be seen, but I will be updating the blog in due time with photos and video of the coating as it ages. If this coating holds up for its advertised amount of time, I think this makes a great go to for those of us who wanted to keep our leased vehicles in great shape or anyone who is just looking for a more long-term level of protection. In my case, my car stays outside 24/7, so I want to make sure it is protected from the elements as best as it possibly can be, for as long as it possibly can be.

Q&A With Jeff McEachran, National Brand Manager for Gyeon USA.

Q: To achieve the advertised results, is one layer sufficient?
A: Yes all of the performance measures from GYEON are based on 1 single layer.

Q: Is there any benefit in layering this coating, or is it not even stackable?
A: You can layer PURE up to 3 layers max. The biggest benefit to layering would be an increase in durability.

Q: Let’s saying you’re working on this product outdoors, coating in the shade or under a tent, any special precautions?
A: Humidity is the biggest factor, the higher the humidity, the thicker it will feel and the faster the solvent carrier will release and the faster you’ll want to remove it. Do not work on hot panels. Initial bond is 3-5 seconds. Wipe too early and it’ll be wet and smear around, too late and it’ll be very tacky. If I (Jeff) knew I didn’t have this setup right for optimal use, I’d switch possibly to One or Mohs, which are easier to apply in high humidity.

Q: Should I use Booster on top of Pure?
A: Booster is awesome on top of any high quality coating. It’s a Fluorine based top coat, designed to increase hydrophobic and self cleaning abilities. It’s not really an additional layer, its a chemical reaction that occurs between the Booster and the base layer and it must be applied before the base layer cures fully or you won’t see the full effects. In use, you’re not going to see it lay down, it evaporates quickly but rest assured if there is product on the applicator, it’s making it onto the car. If you can see a trail, you’re using too much.

Q: What separates Gyeon coatings from others on the market?
A: Time in production and quality of raw materials. Cheap vs expensive carriver solvents and high quality silica. It takes a lot to figure out the perfect mix of silica and solvents to make sure you have as much silica as you can get while still making it easy to remove. At the end of the day Silica is Silica, but the quality of materials used makes all the difference when it comes to ease of use for the customer.

Q: How does Pure differ from other coatings in the lineup? What would you recommend at different levels?
A: Main differences in the Enthusiast line which are CanCoat and One is the concentration by volume of Si02. Both coatings are a single layer, pure Si02 base, CanCoat being the lowest. Immediate wipe on, wipe off immediately for CanCoat. One is in the middle with a slightly higher Si02 Concentration. Concentration by volume of Si02 correlates to ease of use and and experience. If you have experience, jump to the professional grade for Pure, if not, consider One as it has less concentration by volume of Si02. In MOHS and Syncro, you’re talking about a different type of chemistry base to the coating, they also are layered and require a more controlled environment.

That’s all for this review! If you have any questions regarding the usage or Gyeon Pure or any of the methods discussed, leave a comment below. Until the next review, I leave you with this video of the hydrophobicity of a fresh coating of Gyeon Pure.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/gyeon-q2-pure-product-review-and-application-guide/feed/0Car Washing on a Budget, Our Best Pressure Washer Setup for $300https://obsessedm3.com/car-washing-on-a-budget-our-best-pressure-washer-setup-for-300/
https://obsessedm3.com/car-washing-on-a-budget-our-best-pressure-washer-setup-for-300/#commentsMon, 25 Jun 2018 02:12:21 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2239 For those of us who are crazy about car care, a pressure washing setup is a must have. Pressure washers allow us to blast dirt and grime off of our cars in a way that a standard hose rinse can’t. It also allows us to use the oh-so-satisfying foam cannons that we’ve all come […]

For those of us who are crazy about car care, a pressure washing setup is a must have. Pressure washers allow us to blast dirt and grime off of our cars in a way that a standard hose rinse can’t. It also allows us to use the oh-so-satisfying foam cannons that we’ve all come to love. However, there are lots of options on the market for pressure washers, ranging all the way from cheap, $80 toys, to $1,000+ german engineered machines. If you’re not looking to break the bank, but still want a quality setup, this guide is for you.

Let’s first start out with a simple list of everything you’ll need to get started, then we’ll go over why we’ve chosen these items as well as how to set them all up together.

Ryobi 1,700 PSI 1.2 GPM Electric Pressure Washer: When my first ever pressure washer, a Karcher, broke, I picked up this model from Home Depot and have been happy with it ever since. Its been going strong for several years of weekend warrior usage and it hasn’t missed a beat. The PSI rating is plenty for car washing and with a good foam cannon, it produces thick foam. This model also uses industry standard M22 connectors, which makes life easier when it comes to buying aftermarket hoses.

I’ve installed the pressure washer in the bottom section of some storage shelves so I don’t need to lug it out every time I want to use it.

Uberflex 50ft Kink Resistent Pressure Washer Hose: The hose that comes with the Ryobi washer can go right from the box into the garbage. While it appears to be strong and never formed a leak in the year or so I used it before replacing it with this hose, it is extremely tough to coil and kinks very easily. This Uberflex hose coils up incredibly easily, doesn’t kink, and is much longer than the stock hose, allowing for a much easier reach without having to drag the pressure washer around.

MTM Hydro SGS-28 Pressure Washer Gun: This is really the only choice for a replacement gun without springing for the Mosamatic. The SGS-28 has a built in swivel, which makes maneuvering the gun in tight spaces like wheels incredibly easy. It has a solid feel and a smooth trigger, plus, it has full stainless steel internals.

MATCC Foam Cannon: This cannon was extremely well reviewed, so I decided to give it a shot. I have had (and still have) the MTM Hydro gun for comparison. This cheap cannon foams extremely well, although I have noticed it goes thru soap very quickly. Regardless, it seems to work fine and didn’t have any issues with leaking out of the box.

The MATCC cannon next to my MTM Hydro cannon.

Obsessed Garage Complete Quick Disconnect Package: You don’t need all of the connects included in this package, but just buy it. It’s a great price for everything that you need, and you’ll only wind up with 1 or 2 spare bits. They come pre teflon-taped which is great and you’re supporting an amazing community by buying from OG.

Now that you know the why, and have purchased everything, it’s time to assemble! Luckily this is pretty simple. The first thing you’ll want to do is install the Uberflex hose to the pressure washer. Next, you’ll install the M22 NPT Male to 3/8 NPT Male adapter on the other end of the Uberflex hose. Once that adapter is snugged tight, you’ll connect the 3/8 NPT Female to 3/8 QD to the male 3/8 NPT. At this point, one end of your Uberflex hose should be in the pressure washer, and the other should be terminated with a 3/8 quick disconnect.

Next, you’ll take the 3/8 NPT Male to 3/8 QD and install it on the inlet of the SGS-28 gun. This will allow you to connect the gun to the pressure washer hose. Lastly, you need to install the QD receptacle for the outlet of the gun. Take the 1/4 NPT Male to 1/4 QD and thread it into the outlet of the SGS-28.

You’re all set to get washing now! Make sure that all of your connections are snugged tight and leak free. Theres no exact science or torque value to go by here, but I typically snug everything up and then go another 1/4 turn. This produced a completely leak free setup for me on the first go. If you purchased the Gardena quick connects, take a moment to Teflon tape those as well, and make sure you snug them nice and tight to prevent leaks.

As I continue to use this setup I’ll be keeping the blog up to date on any changes I make or any other products that I find to integrate with this setup. If you have any questions or comments drop us a line in the comments section below!

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/car-washing-on-a-budget-our-best-pressure-washer-setup-for-300/feed/6BMW Spotlight: Reggie’s Moonstone Metallic F80 M3https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-reggies-moonstone-metallic-f80-m3/
https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-reggies-moonstone-metallic-f80-m3/#respondSun, 17 Jun 2018 22:57:30 +0000https://obsessedm3.com/?p=2226Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like? I ordered my car at the end of November, 2017. I choose this color because it’s one of the BMW colors I’ve always loved; and said I […]

]]>Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like?

I ordered my car at the end of November, 2017. I choose this color because it’s one of the BMW colors I’ve always loved; and said I would order, when given the chance. The timeline in which the car was put into production and completed felt rather quick, however, the shipping and delivery took longer than I anticipated. This was mainly due to bad weather in the Northeast. I took delivery towards the end of March.

Why this car? What drew you to the specific model that you picked?

In my honest opinion, I feel there aren’t too many cars that give a bang for your buck like the M3 in regards to performance, looks, and daily drivability. Don’t get me wrong, there are cars in it’s class that may be more powerful or have more options, however none really check off every box for me like the M3 does.

Did you face any challenges modding the car? Any tips or tricks for anyone looking at purchasing some of the same items you’ve installed?

I didn’t really face any challenges getting anything on the car. Anything I couldn’t do myself was done by the guys at Exclusive Vinyl (cosmetic wise).

I will note that the KW V3s came off my previous F80 and the EDC deletes were not direct plug-ins, there are blue guides on the new EDC plugs that can just be shaved down to make it fit.

My only advice or tip in ordering any part is try to do as much recon before hitting that purchase button. If you have to reach out to the retailer and be an annoying customer for a few moments, I suggest it (They’ll probably hate me for saying that). I only say that because nothing is worse than receiving an item you stalked on tracking and it either doesn’t fit the car the way you wanted or you don’t like the the way it looks.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-reggies-moonstone-metallic-f80-m3/feed/0BMW Spotlight: Hera Mica Blue F80 M3https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-hera-mica-blue-f80-m3/
https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-hera-mica-blue-f80-m3/#respondThu, 14 Jun 2018 13:50:54 +0000http://obsessedm3.com/?p=2163Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like? I ordered my car mainly because I wanted it to be unique, considering F80’s are becoming quite common in whites and greys in my area. I had […]

]]>Did you order your car or find it in stock? If ordered, why did you choose the color you ultimately picked, and what was your order timeline like?

I ordered my car mainly because I wanted it to be unique, considering F80’s are becoming quite common in whites and greys in my area. I had seen Hera Mica Blue online, but never in person before ordering. The beautiful hue that I saw in the photos, combined with the rarity made it the color of choice for me. My order took about 6 months from the color request to delivery day. I’ve outlined the full timeline in another post, here.

Why this car? What drew you to the specific model that you picked?

Amongst the BMW M lineup, the M3 was the clear choice for me. While I am a fan of coupes in general, the rear end of the M4 leaves much to be desired in my opinion. The fenders are just wide on the M4, they are much more noticeably flared out on the M3. The M2, while an extremely competent and fun car, ultimately left much to be desired in the way of options and color, especially considering BMW did not offer Individual on the M2.

Against other manufacturers, the appeal of a manual transmission and a more driver-centric vehicle that didn’t sacrifice driving feel for comfort is what drew me away from the C63. As far as Audi is concerned, the RS5 at full spec is nearly $10,000 more than the spec of my F80, and would not have leased nearly as well. I also am not a fan of Audi’s lack of design differentiation between their normal, S, and RS models. They look largely similar on the road in my opinion.

Did you face any challenges modding the car? Any tips or tricks for anyone looking at purchasing some of the same items you’ve installed?

With quality parts, most of the installation went fairly smooth, I do however have a few tips for some of the specific parts.

Trunk Spoiler: Prep the trunk with an IPA/water mix before taping the spoiler down. Any contamination will stop the tape from fully adhering, and you might risk losing your spoiler. Having a friend around to make sure its centered is also very helpful.

Exhaust Tips: The installation is incredibly straightforward. However, the removal of the stock tips can be challenging. The easiest removal method I’ve come across is hitting the tips out from behind using a wood block and a hammer. This knocks them all out fairly easily and quickly.

Front Reflectors: This can really be a pain, especially if you have Side View Cameras, but patience is key. Once you have the fender liner opened up, use a heat gun to heat the stock reflector, keeping the heat gun constantly moving so as to not overheat one area. Do this for about 30-45 seconds consistently. Once done, try pushing on the reflector from the top using your thumb. This might hurt a bit, but it should pop the reflector out at the top. From here, use a credit card or similar to cut the tape from the outside in, making sure to avoid damaging the bumper. Lastly, clean up any leftover tape on the inside by rolling it up with your finger, and then wipe the area inside with an IPA/Water mix to ensure proper adhesion of the new reflector.

All of the other modifications installed fairly easily and in the manner you’d expect or come to see on many of the DIY guides available on F80post.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/bmw-spotlight-hera-mica-blue-f80-m3/feed/0How to Keep Your MSport Wheel in New Conditionhttps://obsessedm3.com/how-to-keep-your-msport-wheel-in-new-condition/
https://obsessedm3.com/how-to-keep-your-msport-wheel-in-new-condition/#respondThu, 14 Jun 2018 04:53:07 +0000http://obsessedm3.com/?p=2153When I took delivery of my first car with an MSport steering wheel, I immediately thought to myself two things; First, that is the best steering wheel I had ever felt in a car, supple and comfortable with just the right amount of thickness. Second, I knew that stopping this wheel from turning into a […]

]]>When I took delivery of my first car with an MSport steering wheel, I immediately thought to myself two things; First, that is the best steering wheel I had ever felt in a car, supple and comfortable with just the right amount of thickness. Second, I knew that stopping this wheel from turning into a shiny, disgusting mess was going to be somewhat of a challenge if I didn’t keep up with it from day one.

If you’re reading this at day one (or somewhere not too long after delivery of your car), then you’re in luck. You don’t need to restore your steering wheel, you don’t need to use any harsh cleaners, and as long as you keep up with wiping it down, maintaining the matte finish of your wheel should be relatively easy. If you’re reading this somewhere further down the line, and your steering wheel has started to turn to a more shiny, gloss black appearance, don’t worry, it can still be saved, but it’s going to take just a little bit more work.

A lightly soiled MSport wheel in an X3, before cleaning.

First, we’ll quickly touch on what to do if your car is new, and you just want to keep the wheel looking fresh. For leather cleaner, I recommend the Chemical Guys branded cleaner, while I’m not a huge fan of Chemical Guys in general, this one product stands out in their lineup, and performs well. I’d also recommend you purchase these mini spray bottles from Amazon. What I like to do is take the CG leather cleaner, put it into one of those mini sprayers, and keep that in my door card storage pocket along with a clean, microfiber towel (low pile for this use). Once every week, or once every two weeks, take the sprayer and lightly mist the wheel with cleaner then wipe clean gently, so as to not leave towel marks in the leather. On my previous M3, using this method kept my steering wheel in near-new condition for the 9,000 miles that I owned the car.

The same MSport wheel, after cleaning using only Chemical Guys leather cleaner.

For those of you whose steering wheels are already starting to show signs of damage and are turning a shinier black color or don’t feel as soft to the touch, we’re going to perform a deeper cleaning. In the spirit of all automotive detailing, we want to try the least aggressive method first. Use the same Chemical Guys Leather Cleaner, but this time, preload your towel with it a little bit and rub it together to get it to foam up. Next, Spray the wheel down with cleaner and rub the towel in circular motions, buffing the grime out of the wheel. Go over the whole wheel like this once, changing position on the towels so you’re not buffing in the dirt you’re removing. If all goes well, your towel should become noticeably discolored (white towels are great for this job, really lets you see what’s coming off).

A heavily soiled steering wheel in an F30, the top half dirty, the bottom half restored.

If you’re satisfied with the results from this cleaning, you can stop here and proceed to use the directions above as a weekly cleaning regimen. If, however, the wheel still is a bit grimy or hasn’t fully restored, we can move on to a more aggressive product, Leather Masters Strong Cleaner. Use Strong the same way you just used the Chemical Guys product, it should remove any leftover contamination.

If your wheel is still dirty, there is a chance that it is past the point of restoration. If this is the case, leave a comment below and we’ll see if we can come up with a product combination that will work to solve your problem. Likewise, if you’ve used this method successfully, have a suggestion, or would like further advice on keeping your wheel clean, leave a comment blow.

]]>https://obsessedm3.com/how-to-keep-your-msport-wheel-in-new-condition/feed/0CarPro DLUX: Product Review and Application Guidehttps://obsessedm3.com/carpro-dlux-product-review-and-application-guide/
https://obsessedm3.com/carpro-dlux-product-review-and-application-guide/#respondWed, 13 Jun 2018 21:15:30 +0000http://obsessedm3.com/?p=2129When it comes to ceramic coatings, no one brand makes the best products for every part of your car. If you truly want to have the very best all around, you’ll be looking at different products for your wheels, paint, and glass. Today, we’re looking at a coating made for wheels and plastics. DLUX, […]

]]>When it comes to ceramic coatings, no one brand makes the best products for every part of your car. If you truly want to have the very best all around, you’ll be looking at different products for your wheels, paint, and glass.

Today, we’re looking at a coating made for wheels and plastics. DLUX, by CarPro, is described as a coating to “treat alloy wheels, faded plastic, and rubber trim to restore their rich, glossy finish, and give them the lasting hydrophobic nanotechnology protection these surfaces deserve. Applications like this withstand a lot of abuse so CQuartz DLUX was given a thicker film build than conventional CQuartz coatings and a 50% silica content by volume.”.

Having prior experience with this product, I decided to give it a try as the wheel coating for the wheels on my new M3. I ordered DLUX from Detailed Image, mainly due to their quick shipping and amazing customer support. When it comes to coatings, I would recommend not ordering from places like Amazon, despite how tempting that may be. In many cases, I’ve found that coating products from Amazon are either out of date version wise, or are coming to the end of their shelf life.

Before starting the application process, you’ll need to first perform a full decontamination on your wheels. While I won’t get too in depth on this, the basic procedure is as follows; Remove a wheel, rinse it, wash with just soap first, then spray it with a wheel cleaner for iron decontamination, such as IronX. Agitate the IronX to remove any leftover iron deposits and then rinse again. Next, use either a clay bar or a Nanoskin to clay the wheel and remove any leftover, stuck on contamination. At this point, you can either rinse again or polish the wheel if need be. If you choose to just rinse, then you’re done and ready to move on to coating.

One wheel prepped and ready to be coated.

To begin the application, take your clean wheel and wipe it down with an IPA/Water mix or CarPro Eraser. This will remove any surface waxes, sealants, or other contaminants that will prevent the coating from properly bonding to the wheel.

After your wheel is wiped down, flip it over so the barrel of the wheel is facing out towards you. Be sure to put something down to protect the face of the wheel if you’re doing this on a hard surface. For coating a wheel, I prefer to use a microfiber applicator rather than the included foam block with suede towel, as I find it’s easier to get into tight spaces with the applicator. Open up your DLUX bottle and load the applicator with 2 lines of product. Wipe the product thoroughly on the whole barrel of the wheel. Depending on the color of your wheel, DLUX can be hard to see, however, it immediately becomes very tacky, so you’ll easily feel where you have and haven’t coated.

Per the DLUX directions, wipe off the coating based on the following cure times; “let cure 1 minute at 90F, up to 8 minutes at 50F”. You’ll want to buff it off in circular motions using a high pile microfiber towel to help absorb all the leftover coating without streaking. I used this towel.

After you have the barrel coated and wiped down, flip the wheel back over and follow the same procedure on the face of the wheel. At this point, I was able to use an IR curing lamp to help cure the coating a bit, but this is not necessary and you don’t need to do this if you don’t have access to one.

Curing the coated wheel with an IR lamp.

I suggest taking the opportunity to clean your tire easily while the wheel is off the car and apply a nice layer of your favorite tire dressing. I use Lacquer Thinner to wipe down dirty tires, it leaves them clean and ready for a coat of tire dressing almost immediately. I’ve chosen Gyeon Tire, something that I’ve never used before but am looking forward to testing. Also, if you have painted calipers, take a moment to clean and coat the caliper as well, DLUX works great on calipers.

Wheel and caliper coated with a fresh coat of Gyeon Tire dressing, remounted on the car.

All in all, I’d say the application process is fairly easy and the coating is very forgiving and easy to use. I had no problems removing the coating based on the time scale CarPro provides (it was about 75 degrees, so I waited about 2 minutes) and there was no visible streaking once removed. At first wash, the product is incredibly impressive, waters flies around the wheel in tight beads with a very nice contact angle. In addition, it appears that brake dust build up was slightly reduced, however, the ease of cleaning was the real winner here. Less soiled parts of the wheel, like the spoke, were clean to the touch with just a hit from the pressure washer, and anything else came off easily with just some soap and water.

Here’s a quick video of the first rinse approximately 5 days after application:

I’ll be posting an update in a few months to let everyone know how the product fares over time, until then, initial impressions are great and I’d highly recommend this product!