The Haute Couture cheat sheet

Follow the topics within this article

With the Paris haute couture shows kicking off on Sunday, July 5, get clued about the bi-annual showcase of some of the most expensive and beautiful dresses in the world

The essentials
Haute couture literally translates as ‘high sewing’ (and thus high fashion). It is the art of dressmaking on an expert, painstaking scale. Items are made-to-measure by hand, resulting in pieces of clothing that are both unique and exorbitant in cost.

The history lesson
Haute Couture was a necessity for high-class Parisians in the 19th century. The ultimate in power-dressing, women went to couture houses to have bespoke clothing that would set them apart from the rest of the fashion set – leaving it impossible for other ladies to turn up to events in the same outfits. The opulent ring of exclusivity still surrounds haute couture today, with the label being a legal - and highly regarded - term to be used by only a very select number of designers meeting the standard.

What does it take to be a couturier?
Legally, a design house can only identify itself as an haute couture label if it adheres to the strict requirements of the French Ministry of Industry and the Fédération Française de la Couture. Firstly, a designer must create made-to-measure clothing for private clients and offer personal fittings. They must also have a full-time workshop in Paris that employs no fewer than twenty staff. Finally, the fashion house must present two collections a year – in January and July – comprising both daytime and formal eveningwear.

Valentino spring/summer 2015 collection

Who makes it?
'Les petite mains' (which literally means small hands) refers to the collective 2,200 seamstresses who painstakingly bring haute couture creations to life. Working in the ateliers, this talented, patient breed are often fiercely loyal to a fashion house, spending their whole career solely at one brand.

How much does it cost?
Anything made-to-measure is going to be pricier than plain old ready-to-wear, but haute couture is a whole other story. With some pieces taking upward of 700 hours to create, and a minimum of twenty people working on it at a time, the price tag will reflect that tenfold. Daywear pieces start at approximately £8,000, with evening and formal wear rocketing far above that. The use of rare fabrics and precious embellishments will hike the price even higher; it’s not unheard of for some items to fetch up to the millions.

Who buys it?
The main buyers of haute couture today are no longer French socialites, but buyers from Russia, China and the Middle East. Fine clothing items can escalate in value over the years, and are often regarded as collectors’ items, making for a clever investment.

Ralph & Russo spring/summer 2014 campaign

Where is it shown?
Collections are always showcased in the birthplace of haute couture, Paris. But Karl Lagerfeld has noted the impact private planes have had on the couture industry, telling WWD: “Most of the clients don’t even see the collection in the salon. The collection goes to the country, it’s shown to the women after they make a vague choice on the video. It’s a different world from the past.”

The key players
Household names Christian Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Elie Saab and Jean-Paul Gaultier all show on the official haute couture schedule. Relative newcomers Ralph & Russo, which is London-based, became the first English brand in 100 years to be invited to show as part of the official schedule in 2014.

The key components
Only the finest materials by the most skilled artisans will do when it comes to Haute Couture. Thus, houses call upon Lemarié for the finest feathers; Lesage for embroidery; Massaro for shoes; Causse for gloves... and so it goes on. Speciality is the name of the game.

How profitable?
Once considered as more of a ‘vanity project’ in marketing for big brands to showcase their creativity, business is currently booming. Chanel predicts that 2015 will be its best year for couture sales while at Versace, couture sales grew by 50 percent compared with 2014.