Monday marked the arrival of the new line of Tim Hortons “premium espresso”–based drinks we told you about a couple weeks back. Nestled in next to the iced cappuccino machine at Ontario locations is a new spaceship-like contraption that spits out everything from a simple espresso ($1.19) to cappuccinos ($2) and fancy-flavoured lattes ($2) using powdered milk. With one press of the appropriate button, the drink comes out, coffee, milk and all (there’s also a happy face made out of sprinkled cocoa on top of each beverage). To mark the occasion—and satisfy our curiosity about the stuff—we asked Stuart Ross, the owner of Bulldog Coffeeand a champion barista, for his professional’s opinion on Timmy’s latest creation. What followed was a lot of confusion and some less-than-smiley faces, starting with the espresso. »

“First off, it doesn’t look very appealing, and it smells like aluminum.”

And the taste?

“It’s like if I served you a piece of chicken and it came to you burnt. Like, ‘What are you doing?’ It’s pretty bad. If you add a lot of sugar, maybe, you know, you’d get the caffeine kick at least.”

Next, we had Ross try a cappuccino »

(Image: Meaghan Binstock)

“I’m getting a smell… I don’t know what it is. You’re really going to make me try this?”

Yes, we are.

“There’s no nice coffee taste at all. It’s almost like a double double with foam on it.”

Finally, we gave Ross the latte »

(Image: Meaghan Binstock)

“I don’t know what the difference is [between the latte and cappuccino]….Oh wait. There’s a colour difference under the foam. The cappuccino is a little darker and the latte is a little lighter. It’s kind of sweet. This tastes like hot chocolate. Taste it! It’s a hot chocolate. It doesn’t taste like coffee. It’s misleading. And there’s such tinny taste.”

I have to wonder who the target audience for Tim Horton’s espresso drinks is? Reluctant spouses/friends who get dragged there by Tim’s addicts? Airport patrons? Surely anyone who enjoys a true espresso drink will not consider Tim’s an equal substitute. However, I don’t go to McDonald’s and expect a Kobe beef filet. It doesn’t mean McDonald’s is bad, just that they don’t belong in that business. However, with regards to blind taste testing… are you kidding? “Sommelier, can you please identify the grape Kool-Aid among these Oregon Pinots… drum roll…. BLINDFOLDED?” … “Uh, yeah, I think I can.”

A top chef can appreciate quality food other than their own as can a barista. Stuart is a top barista and has the knowledge to decifer quality coffee. Tim Hortons mass produced junk hits a sour note. So what! People will still line up like drones every morning to guzzle their double double.

First.
Of course this isn’t a fair taste test: It was not blinded and Mr. Ross would obviously have a bias, owning his own cafe…

Second.
Of course Tim Horton’s espresso drinks are crap. Just like all espresso drinks made from industrial-sized super-automatic espresso machines are vastly inferior to what any moderately trained barista can do with a decent manual or semi-automatic machine, a fresh-roasted espresso-intended blend, and most importantly, a good espresso-grade grinder.

While this may have been entertaining, it’s certainly not surprising that the article wasn’t informative. At all.

Come on did anyone really expect a good espresso out of Tim’s? They have a specific market with their product and the espresso based coffee drinker just isn’t it. I suppose if you do like a good double double then their powdered milk latte could be a nice change.

Blind taste taste!!!! How do u experience with your other senses the amazing latte art. An important aspect of experiencing the full pleasure of said drink. I dont know what says generic more that a happy face from double- double land.

I love Tim Horton’s. I also love Dark Horse. I’m lucky enough that I can afford a five or six dollar quality latte when I want one, but I also recognize that not everyone can. What exactly was everyone expecting from Tim’s anyway? I guess Toronto Life was having a slow day, needed some filler. I’m going to get a mass produced espresso now.

I love the latte at the Bull Dog, unfortunately I stopped going there when I observed that the same person pressing the coffee for the latte is the same person handling the money, I found that to be so unsanitary. At least for the most part at Tim Hortons the cashiers and food handlers different

Had a “cappuccino” from Tim Hortons this morning. Worst decision EVER. I didn’t know it would come so sweet. It tasted basically just like foamy milk syrup. There’s no espresso or coffee taste at all. Disgusting!!

I can’t even bring myself to read this article because this guy is the BIGGEST JERK I have ever come across in my life. HORRIBLE customer service. It would probably kill him to crack a smile and be polite to his customers at Bulldog.

What a cute article! Love the pics.
It’s not a big surprise that the drinks are bad, but it never hurts to do a review. Well done Toronto Life!
I went to McD’s and got upsold to an americano yesterday…pretty terrible, but at least I gave it a try!

There are indeed many nasty comments to be found (especially on Chowhound) on Mr. Ross’ lack of customer service skills. After reading several of them, I don’t think it would be possible for him to offer anything but a negative comment on these products.

A- You don’t need to blind fold Stuart- He can melt steeel with his glare.
B- The rest of you bleeders who think that a latte is 6 bucks at Dark Horse are wannabees because they aren’t-
C- You stopped going to BullDog when the Barista touched the cash- Ummm.. Ya I get that-especially if the barista also stuck his fingers in you bev.
D- Most of you are missing the point: As the US Congress accepts pizza as a vegetable we as Canadians continue to lower our bar as to what we put in our mouths. Medium double double… eh! Think about how stupid you all sound when order that, but then again you don’t sound educated when you order a venti non fat triplre shot of diabetes at Starbucks..
I can honestly say that when

You really expect anything positive to come out of his nasty mouth? Come on, this guy is nasty and anything he would say about anything would be nasty. He may make decent coffee but who needs to be subjected to him and
his horrible attitude and the ugly way he treats people?

Sure, good coffee is good coffee but I think that even the most snobby of you commenting freaks has a friend or family member who enjoys a bad coffee at Tim’s at least once in a while. Do you sit and glare at them while they drink their lower class beverage? Explain to them how ridiculous it is to drink drip, “oooh the flaaaaovors are SOOOOO under developed!” PLEASE. So much of this city has moved here in adulthood from suburbs with out espresso machines or even SUSHI. Leaving only to attend some middle of the road post secondary institute and then celebrating moving into a cookie cutter condo while bitching about the suburban sprawl just outside the city centre mecca. Get over yourselves. This city is going downhill with every perfect cup of coffee and every ass hole who is too good to be kind.

Nov. 17th at 9:17 by ‘C’
Agree wholeheartedly, not everyone can afford from time to time a $5.00 latte, etc. Perhaps Tim’s latte, espresso, etc. will not be as strong, for those who don’t like Starbuck’s blend. Since the 60’s Tim’s has built up a following that is still strong to=day. I feel on this one that ‘the regular, working class, non-espresso stiff will always enjoy whatever they are drinking at Tim’s. ‘S’

Of course Tim’s won’t compare to Bulldog, but at least do get relatively efficient & friendly service, as opposed to the surliness and attitude you get from Bulldog’s owner. Really wanted to support my local independent coffee shop but very rarely go there, as his attitude is so off-putting. The final straw was having Ross stop working for several minutes to chat about windsurfing with customers sitting at a table and completely ignoring 4 of us line-up looking to order. Fortunately some of his staff is great and know the meaning of courtesy and customer service.

This forum will clearly be between those who have tasted the Bulldog latte and those who haven’t. I have been going to the Bulldog for years and the ‘Bulldog Latte’ is the best I have ever had. What is truly remarkable is the consistency, they always taste exactly the same, I have yet to experience a bad brew.

That said, I am also a regular patron of Tim Horton’s and value the comfort of a double double (with milk) on a cold miserable day at work. I wouldn’t have guessed for a heartbeat, that a powder based, machine pressed latte could stand against a real barista crafted drink. I believe that if it was actually good, Stuart would have told us so. I’m pretty sure he realizes that his clientele would not suddenly flock to Tim Horton’s instead.

Tim’s and the McCafe “blends” belong in the same fast food coffee category as those throw-back instant hot chocolate/coffee machines frequented in hockey arenas. They all create the notion of coffee and provide budget brews for an already captive, niche audience. Sometimes they act as a stepping stone for novice coffee drinkers. Don’t all our paths trace back to Tim’s, Starbucks and Second Cup?

I found great humour versus pretentious bias in this post. I’m sure a Tim Horton’s tasting panel would have the same reaction to a Bulldog latte. Now let’s see that Q&A!

Whatever Tim’s charges for the mess they call a latte is too much. Describing the flavor only gives it some legitimacy. Blah. Seriously, a Nespresso machine costs only a few hundred dollars and yields a far superior taste.

I used to go to Starbucks. Too expensive. Then I tried the T.H’s latte when they used to make it with real milk. Not bad..I got used to it. I liked the $2.00 savings. Then they changed them and use POWDERED MILK!! When my local T.H gave me one to try..I could hardly finish it. It was disgusting. I tried one about a month later..maybe it was because it was a new machine..maybe some learning curve on making these…nope. Still disgusting. I now go to Mcdonald’s – they actually make a decent latte. Real milk, real beans. maybe not the best espresso beans but what the heck, it’s not powdered coffee, and powdered milk. and $2.00 cheaper than Starbuck’s.

Wow, the espresso actually tastes sour. I have a Tassimo at home and Tim’s uses an automated espresso machine too. Being an industrial unit (Nescafe or whatever I don’t remember), I thought it would basically be the same. Nope. I’ll stick to my Tassimo at home and pay 60 cents on their Americano Espresso – not 90cents for top-grade sewage.