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I had my oil and filter changed at the local dealership yesterday.
Talking to the SA about other recommended actions to take, he advised me to do a fuel system cleaning involving a disconnect of the fuel line and attaching a tank with special "solution" and let the car run on this for a while. (a $200 cost) According to him due to the ethanol in the fuel. He also recommended a brake fluid flush even though itís not due in the idrive system. Last brake fluid flush was august 2009. (a $170 cost)

Sounds like snake oil to me. I wouldn't do either.
If you want to keep the fuel system clean run a bottle of Techron from Chevron every so often. But it's probably not needed.
What was his rationale for bleeding the brake system ahead of schedule?

Brake fluid and Transmission fluid should be changed every 2 years, because of breakdown and hydroscopity (moisture absorbing properties). Under CPO BMW changed both twice. As for the fuel if your cocerned add a can of Seafoam to your tank every oil change.

Brake fluid and Transmission fluid should be changed every 2 years, because of breakdown and hydroscopity (moisture absorbing properties). Under CPO BMW changed both twice. As for the fuel if your cocerned add a can of Seafoam to your tank every oil change.

As for long life transmission fluid. I changed some on a 2002 Lexus GS 300 with 125K on it. The Lexus dealer refused to change it for her because it was lifetime. When I drained it, it looked like conventional motor oil with 10K miles on it (jet black and thick).New fluid is clear and thin with a pink tint to it. I put some of the stuff that I drained in a bottle and gave it to her to take to the dealer. The dealer said they know but their hands are tied because they are not suppose to change the fluid. WTH

Anyway, since then I have never kept any fluid past the recommended change interval. I change my BMW engine Oil at 8K vs 15K-20K indicated by the condition based maintenance monitors in the car.

Brake fluid and Transmission fluid should be changed every 2 years, because of breakdown and hydroscopity (moisture absorbing properties). Under CPO BMW changed both twice. As for the fuel if your cocerned add a can of Seafoam to your tank every oil change.

I never heard about a dealer changing transmission fluid as part of regular maintenance.

I had my oil and filter changed at the local dealership yesterday.
Talking to the SA about other recommended actions to take, he advised me to do a fuel system cleaning involving a disconnect of the fuel line and attaching a tank with special "solution" and let the car run on this for a while. (a $200 cost) According to him due to the ethanol in the fuel. He also recommended a brake fluid flush even though itís not due in the idrive system. Last brake fluid flush was august 2009. (a $170 cost)

Could you guys please share your opinions about this?

Car has 55000 miles on it.

Regards,
Henning

1. The fuel system cleaning is a rip off, IMO- unnecessary. The use of 'ethanol' is a half truth to confuse you and create fear. Fear and uncertainty are the most effective sales tools service advisors have.... Even **IF** Ethanol may damage components in the fuel system, how would cleaning it change the damage?

2. Change the Fuel Filter.

3. 55k miles, change the ATF. There are MANY, MANY threads on ATF, but generally BMW says it is lifetime fluid, but they also consider 100k miles to be the lifetime of the transmission. They recommend a change at 100k, just after the CPO/extended warranty is done...to late for issues with failing transmissions and new fluid to impact their bottom line.

4. Brake flush SHOULD be done under your BMW program. I seem to recall the fluid flush was not explicitly in the CBS so many dealers didnt do it. Every 2-3 years.

I will cancel the fuel system cleaning.
I will do the brake fluid flush.
I'll ask for a quote on a fuel filter and ATF replacement. Anyone likes to suggest a fair price for this?
Are there any filters involved with the ATF replament ?
The car is out of warranty and not CPOed.

ATF replacement involves changing the transmission filter and altogether, if done right, is $$$, probably 500 or more. One thing to keep in mind, there's no established correlation b/w fluid change and gearbox longevity: live examples of 250+ K miles on original fluid coexist with broken ones where fluid was changed some way - and no one can say for sure (but obviously can speculate) whether it broke due to or despite the change. Also, often the issues are related to mechatronic parts (not fluid related), and you end up dropping the pan and changing some of the fluid anyway.

ATF replacement involves changing the transmission filter and altogether, if done right, is $$$, probably 500 or more. One thing to keep in mind, there's no established correlation b/w fluid change and gearbox longevity: live examples of 250+ K miles on original fluid coexist with broken ones where fluid was changed some way - and no one can say for sure (but obviously can speculate) whether it broke due to or despite the change. Also, often the issues are related to mechatronic parts (not fluid related), and you end up dropping the pan and changing some of the fluid anyway.

The whole "there is no data" argument reminds me of the cigarette companies defenses for all those years.... "no data suggesting that cigarettes caused YOUR cancer"

I've read a few people talk about "Oh the fluid doesnt fail, it is some other part" (Hi JCL ) but the fact is that the correlation between fluid degradation, transmnission wear and fouling, and ultimate failures is well known IN GENERAL. But perhaps BMW has engineered aomething that has been impossible for the last 40 years....

So, to be clear: NO TRANSMISSION EVER FAILS DUE TO FLUID FAILURE.

Clear?

The primary failure is part wear and sludge build-ip leading to improper actuation with a resulting range of symptoms.

IMO

A

PS OP- the BMW dealer will almost surely talk you out of a fluid change. Find a good transmission shop with experience in these trannies. My 2 cents

@brown370 I know I am a little off the topic here but I want your advise on one thing, I have an X5 2007 4.8, I recently changed the water pump and expansion tank and ever since I lost heater power,
the car start in the morning heat start coming slowly and very week (warm and never hot knowing temp is set to 28 C) from both center vents, when I start driving the driver start giving out cold air and the passenger vet becomes very less warm. sometimes cold as well.

I was told by the service manager of BMW that this could be due to an air pocket! any idea how to effectively bleed the system?
thanks