I have been looking at the CR's but am put off by the price tag. I would like to get a "speed holster"

Anyone selling one?

TIA!!!

Tim

I'd stick with a good kydex holster. You aren't going to gain a whole lot in IPSC competition on the draw in today's style matches. However, if you venture into steel challenge style shooting, a race holster will be a definitive advantage.

My recommendation is to buy a Bladetech DOH until you are ready to put optics on the gun. When you make a FIRM commitment to open then and only then should you start looking for a race holster. A G35 open gun is going to limit you to 24 rounds while a 9mm will get 30-31-32 depending on base & follower.

The CR Speed is a good holster. It has a positive lock and is very quick. Now, in side by side tests, it only gets me about .1 to .15 on the draw over a Bladetech DOH. That ain't much--and if you're just getting started, you might be better served with a simple Kydex holster. Not as adjustable, and they will put wear on the gun where the CR Speed won't, but you'll save a few dollars.

I'd avoid the Ghost holsters. Seen a few DQs because of that design (dropped guns), but Safariland are good, if you can stand the leg pad.

The CR Speed is a good holster. It has a positive lock and is very quick. Now, in side by side tests, it only gets me about .1 to .15 on the draw over a Bladetech DOH. That ain't much--and if you're just getting started, you might be better served with a simple Kydex holster. Not as adjustable, and they will put wear on the gun where the CR Speed won't, but you'll save a few dollars.

I'd avoid the Ghost holsters. Seen a few DQs because of that design (dropped guns), but Safariland are good, if you can stand the leg pad.

Have fun!!
Dan

Ps--This is for Limited or L-10, right?

No, I am shooting Production...I have several bladetech/kydex holsters that I have been using, but I am really wanting a cleaner draw than what they can give me...I need to shave some time off of the steel plates! My best time on the plates is 4.16 (that was with a totally stock G23). I am averaging around 5 seconds with the 35 on the plates...but I have just aquired the 35 and don't have a ton of practice with it just yet

No, I am shooting Production...I have several bladetech/kydex holsters that I have been using, but I am really wanting a cleaner draw than what they can give me...I need to shave some time off of the steel plates! My best time on the plates is 4.16 (that was with a totally stock G23). I am averaging around 5 seconds with the 35 on the plates...but I have just aquired the 35 and don't have a ton of practice with it just yet
Thanks you guys!

Some tips from Matt Burkett;

1. Check your reaction time to the buzzer. Use a timer with a delay or a friend, get your shooting stance, prep the trigger, at the first note of the buzzer pull the trigger. Trying for .13-.20.

2. Dryfire draws to a target that you just touch with the muzzle of the gun. Use the par time on a timer and reduce the time until you are not making the touch before the timer. Trying for 1.0 or less.

3. Keep the draw speed the same and allow the sights to dictate the first shot speed. For plates put the sights on the top half of the plate because as people try for speed they tend to jerk the shots low.

4. In the beginning pin the trigger to the rear until the sights recover. Once you know you can hit the plate every time then snap the eyes to the next plate and use the recoil to bring the gun down on target.

My observation is that the best way to shoot a 3.0 sec plate rack is to start with the gun at the ready and shoot a few 1000 rounds until you know that when the sight is on the plate it will fall every time. Then start with the gun in the holster, now that 1.0 sec draw gets you a 4.0 sec run or less.

Yeah, you really have to have the transitions mastered on the plate rack. If a 6 plate rack is taking you 5 seconds, I assume you're 1.5 or so on the draw, and then .6 to .8 on transitions. Let's say you get the superduper open guy holster, practice really hard, and get the draw to .9 seconds. Congrats. You are now shooting the rack in 4.4 instead of 5.

Now, learn to ride recoil. Learn that the plate rack is NOT 6 seperate shots, but one single action. Learn to call your shot so you don't have to see the plate go down (or worse, hear it). In short, cut your transitions from .7 to .3 and you have a 3.5 second session with a really slow draw!

It's really easy if you learn to call your shots from a flash sight picture, and stop waiting for confirmation of the hit!

Now, why are you shooting Production with a .40? Go Limited! Pickup some +5 basepads--you'll only need 2 to start--an go LIMITED. Get the advantage of the extra power instead of paying the price for it.

Now, why are you shooting Production with a .40? Go Limited! Pickup some +5 basepads--you'll only need 2 to start--an go LIMITED. Get the advantage of the extra power instead of paying the price for it.

You are shooting in production right now. In production no matter what caliber you are shooting the scoring is minor. Also in production you can only put 10 rounds in your magazine. The recoil you are getting with .40 is making you slower vs. someone shooting 9mm so you are slower and not getting the scoring advantage of major.

If you shoot in limited division you can shoot major since you are shooting .40 and hits to the C and D section on the targets will score you more points in the stage. Also in limited you can fill up your magazines. You also could add extensions to the bottom of your magazine and get 19-20 rounds in each magazine.

Another option would be limited 10. Same as limited with major scoring but only 10 rounds in your magazines. If you don't add the extensions this might be the best division for a G35. I usually shoot my G35 in L10 unless the weather is bad and I want to limit the number of mag changes where they get dropped in the mud. In that case I shoot limited and fill up the magazines.

Another option if you load your own is do a light .40 and shoot minor in production. In that case you won't really be at a disadvantage.

Your Dropped Offset Holster (DOH) from Blade-Tech will be fine. Personally, I prefer it for Limited over my Ghost Holster because I feel it is much more secure. I don't think I'm giving up much time (if any) by using the Blade-Tech over the Ghost. The only reason I keep the Ghost around is for my Open gun.