Breeding parakeets is very interesting hobby. I encourage all the hobbyist and bird lovers to engage this kind of hobby. You can make it also a source of income like me. I have many pairs of parakeets in my back yard that being breed. How to breed parakeets is the common question of all the beginners that want to breed this kind of pet birds. Well in my opinion, this kind of bird species is quite simple to breed and uncomplicated. In my own experience of keeping birds parakeets is very easy to breed most especially for beginners.

As of now, approximately, I have hundreds of parakeets being bred in my aviary. I have also golden finches, cockatiels, and budgies. These hobbies of mine become a source of income of my family. Breeding parakeets is a good source of income we can say it profitable business. Last month, almost 500 hundred chicks have been move out to their parents. Most of them are independent and the rest are hand fed. That’s a lot of chicks and a lot of money too. I am hoping, this coming month I will sell them.

Its been a long time which I visited this blog of mine because I am very busy in the past few months doing and taking care of all the things I need to do in my hobby or should I call it business which is breeding parakeets. as of now I have almost 150 pairs of parakeets being bred in our back yard. i have also different bird species that I started to breed like Parrots, African Grey, Finches, English Budgies and Macaws. I really enjoy birds. In breeding parrots, and other big species of birds, it requires time and lots of money. Time, just like the other species they need time to ensure they safety. Money, it is quite expensive in breeding parrots and other big species of birds compare to small species. They need big cages, big food container, lots of foods, they need bigger toys and they need more space to stretch their wings and fly too. In small species it is less expensive.

The best method in breeding parakeets is to raise them in pair. Put one pair in cage, the minimum measures are 45x40x35 (width, height and depth), now if it can be a bit bigger the better. Breeding pairs to avoid conflicts over nest boxes that are common in the farming community, they can usually get to the death of a full clutch, another point is to prevent dominant males are those who step on most of the females and lose control of the chicks for future cross.
The parakeet reproduction is easy, we put a nest box 20x12x12 (W, D, H) with a circular hollow inside where the female will lay between 3 and 6 eggs, normal is 5, then 6 to 9 days after the first step on the male to the female, put 1 egg every other day, the incubation takes 20 days (approx.), the eggs hatch one by one, where we notice a considerate size difference between the first and last. we must monitor the nest box and also we clean them, throw them a good bit of sawdust so that feces are mixed and not to stick it to the box and legs, it can even lead to deformity. Take about a month to leave the nest and a little more than a week to win independence. If you do not remove the nest box parakeets be played all year, I would retreat to the nest boxes in winter itching for 2 months to rest and recover, some couples manage to get 4 broods during this period.
Parakeets nest with babies, we see the age difference between them is 2 and about to leave.

Most of the food of parakeets is a seed mixture that consists mainly of millet, millet, oats, peeled, wonder (sunflower seeds) and accompanied by sprouts, leaves of spinach, lettuce and grass, some like the Apple the biscuit as a reward.

Both cage have drinkers, feeders and nest boxes which can be purchase in your local pet stores in your area, the ideal is to have metal cage that is safer because parakeets are very naughty and they cannot gnaw it. in a wooden cage they can make a hole and run away, besides it is easier to clean and is less chances of germs and bacteria to grow in.

In breeding parakeets you have to choose the best parakeet cage for them. In choosing of an accommodation for your bird should be carefully considered, since the cage is the most important element of the furniture of your bird. Its size is one of the main factors of choice. It must be large enough to allow the bird to spread its wings and feathers flutter without hitting the bars. Small birds, like canaries, lovebirds, budgies, finches and nymphs should be large enough to fly from perch to perch. Medium and large parrots need more space to enable them to climb and exercise inside the cage. For long-tailed birds (mainly parrots), will have to provide additional space to avoid spoiling the feathers of the same. Choose your bird ever to larger accommodation that allows you to your home. It will never be big enough, but can quickly become too small. Your bird must share their space with toys, feeders, perches and maybe some swing, ladder or other accessory. Note also that you may later decide to buy another bird. The style of crate you choose depends largely on your personal taste, but always rejected circular cages. In a square or rectangular cage, the bird is always a “security side, usually the closest to the wall, where he knows he is not going to bring anyone unexpectedly. A round cage without this reference point, generating a significant stress to the animal’s life, with all the disadvantages that implies (nervousness, depression defenses, etc.). The distance between bars should be wide enough to avoid trapping the beak or claws, but not so large to allow the head to enter through them. There is also the question of whether the cage should have a horizontal or vertical grating. Seems most optimal side walls are horizontal and the vertical front and rear. The side used for a comfortable and perched on the bird before and after the peak used both as the claws, which requires more energy and thus greater consumption of calories. This will help keep our birds in top form. We observe that the welds are smooth, polished, so the bird can not damage or scratch us during cleaning. Furthermore, the material of construction of a good accommodation for birds should be carefully chosen. Smooth surfaces can, over time, show scratches, chips or stains. These areas should always be sealed without heavy metals. Often parrots can eat these things out that in case of containing heavy metals, would cause fatal poisoning. Surfaces powder-coating (dust coating) have been the most appropriate for the last twenty years, but again has to be careful in the preparation. If the powder-coating performed flawlessly and has been subjected to temperatures of at least 220 º C, the cage will have a long life. We must also wear phenomena have, but if not used harsh cleaning products are removed regularly and food debris, feces and splashing water, the cages can be kept in perfect condition over many years. Never use metal polishes for your cage. Most are toxic to your bird. Attention should be paid to that enhancements are appropriate and tailored to the needs and care of the bird. It is very useful and convenient feeders have stainless steel corners accessible and easy to clean, protective systems to avoid contaminating the environment of the cage, etc.. Your bird should be placed in the room of the house in which increased activity develops. Then you can observe the family and integrate more quickly. Never place the cage near a source of heat or cold, such as windows, radiators, fireplaces, air conditioning and exterior doors. Resist the temptation to put your parrot in the kitchen, it smells and sharp fluctuations in temperature can be harmful. The fumes produced by overheated Teflon utensils can be fatal to your bird. Never place it directly under sunlight without at least a portion of housing exists in the shade. Birds can also suffer heat stroke. He also thinks that the air near the ground is always colder. If you have other pets, you should then place the cage away from the tooth and nail for them. Note that many ornamental plants are toxic to birds, so care should be paid that are not within reach. Watching all these aspects will find happier you and your feathered friend.

Parakeets are relatively small creatures with very little in the way of defenses. They don’t have stinky odors like a skunk, or razor-sharp claws like a tiger. All they have to defend themselves with is their beak. If they feel afraid, that is the only way they have to defend themselves. And since the original word for budgie in Australian aborigine means “good to eat”, there are a lot of creatures a parakeet had to defend itself against!

Usually a parakeet that is biting is feeling afraid. And usually that’s because you’re jumping ahead in your interactions with the parakeet. You are the owner, you are the one “in charge” that has to get your pet used to his new surroundings. You have to first give him time to settle into his cage. You then have to move slowly through the hand training instructions, not going too fast. Make sure the parakeet is thoroughly accepting one stage before you move on to the next stage.

Most cages can be cleaned without putting your hands into the cage. Many modern cages even let you change the water and food without putting your fingers into the cage. Think of the cage as the parakeet’s safe sanctuary. Let’s say you were in your favorite treehouse, where you were safe. Now say a gigantic hand came reaching down for you from the sky. You’d try to defend yourself in your treehouse, right? That’s all that the parakeet is doing. You have to teach him, slowly, patiently, to trust you. But it won’t just happen in days, or even in weeks. Especially if you have an older keet or one from a bin-of-budgies, it might take months. But you will be developing a friendship that will endure for years and years.

Really, the essence of not being bit is to not put your fingers near a bird that is afraid. If your bird is not hand trained, your hand should not be near it. Talk quietly and soothingly to your bird. Keep the stress levels down, by not introducing new birds until the birds are thoroughly familiar with each other (in separate levels) and letting the bird have a full 8 hours of fully dark, quiet sleep each night. Just like humans, birds get cranky if they don’t get enough sleep, or if they are harassed while they are awake.

If your bird does bite, NEVER hit it. That will only make your bird more afraid, scared, and feeling threatened. Don’t use water sprays (like some people do on cats) – water needs to be a healthy, normal thing for your bird. Just say NO in a loud, firm voice, and put a blanket over the cage to hide him from his world. That will both help him calm down and make him feel lonely, which is the punishment birds enjoy the least.

There can be MANY reasons that you need to locate a bird friendly animal shelter. Maybe you want a new budgie, and want to rescue one that has been abandoned! Maybe your elderly grandmother has just passed away, and you need a home for her budgie and simply can’t take it in yourself. Here are shelters that we know of that can handle parakeets, budgies and other birds.