Peptides in Skin Care

There are an increasing number of spa products claiming to contain peptides, but what are they and what benefits do they have for your clients? We asked Natalie Pergar, Senior Product Education Specialist at Éminence Organic Skin Care, to break it down:

Is putting peptides in skin care products a new development?
The first peptides were isolated from hormones in the 1950s, which is a new development, considering how long skin care has been part of our history. In the early 2000s, peptides started becoming more popular and gaining momentum in the skin care industry as technology advanced.

What are peptides and what skin care benefits do they have?
Peptides are short chain amino acids which essentially serve as building blocks for essential skin proteins. They can serve a dual purpose, both for treatment of the signs of aging and prevention of the signs of aging. Peptides work well with any skin care regimen, but the benefits are especially complemented by a product with stabilized Vitamin C.

What are the different types of peptides and what are their different functions in skin care products?
The two most common types of peptides that we see in skin care are signaling peptides and neuropeptides. Signaling peptides trigger the body’s own natural processes to rebuild the longer chain proteins which provide various skin care benefits. For example, one of the skin proteins that peptides help rebuild is collagen, the protein responsible for plump, firm and full skin. When collagen naturally breaks down in the body, it creates a shorter chain peptide which would typically signal the creation of new collagen. As we get older, that process slows or stops completely. Signaling peptides are best for prevention, and treating fine lines at the beginning stages of visibility. Neuropeptides work on the muscular level to block transmission of signals from the nerves to the facial muscles. They penetrate through the epidermis, the dermis, through the deeper layers of the skin and into the muscular level. Once the neuropeptides reach the muscles, they signal the neurons to relax. So neuropeptides are ideal for corrective treatment of the visible signs of aging.