Nanette Lepore’s desire to include more varying prints, patterns, and fabrics in her clothes could not have been more evident in her Spring collection. “I want to do less solids,” said the designer at her presentation at Union Square’s new Metropolis restaurant. There was nary a plain solid in sight but rather a mélange of rich, playful looks. The brocade jackets and pleated trousers—done up in paisleys or a rosebud print—were charming. So was a sweet black-and-white gingham puff-sleeved dress that came in long- and short-length versions. (Lepore called the shorter piece “the Shopbop one,” and the longer number that she wore herself, “the Saks” version. Though aimed at two sets of customers, both were equally pretty). The old-school technique of cross-stitching made a cameo on some of the pieces too. The look could have come across as folky on a shift dress, but instead had a bit of edge thanks to a tiger-print corset that added a refreshing clash. But the most clever standout was also the most pared back: An exposed hook-and-eye fastener was coolly used in lieu of a zipper on a pair of wide-leg brocade trousers.

There was also Lepore’s print collaboration with painter Lori Field, an artist known for her fantastical illustrations. A button-up blouse was one of the most talked-about pieces: The cleanly tailored cut, its oversize collar, and slightly flared sleeves, served as the perfect canvas for Field’s funky print. The look was fun and cheerful, two points that Lepore always brings home in her clothes.