I had already forgotten Yves the colourist in Gucci guise. The difficulty here is that it does feel unavoidably retro and seen before. Much as I do love Frida, it seems, McQueen apart (which they only have 51% of) that PPR are locked in some retro headspace they can't escape from. And Maier's rererehash of 40's @ Bottega Veneta seemed woefully off point and heel draggy.