Hey Guys,
I must say that ever since I got back into PB about 2 years ago I've always loved the look of mags. I now find my self coveting/whoring some kind of mag. I know nothing about them other then that they prefer air ( not a prob I have my own compressor). I was wondering the differences between the x-mag ( Walrus that thing is a beauty) and the Pneumag. When I get one I'd prob want either an Pneumag or Emag but I have no idea on fair prices for them. I've been trolling AO but I always come home to MCB when I want advice. Now that I'm done rambling here are the questions.

1) What is a fair price for a pneumag that is ready to use ( barrel, asa, valve)? It seems popular to sell less than complete markers.

2) Is there much difference between a pneumag and an emag?

3) What kind of loader will I need to feed one of these?

4) What does it take to work on /maintain these markers? I do all my own work but don't need to get into a huge mess if I can help it.

1) I've never seen someone sell their Pneumag. I'd guess fair price would be something like market rate for the gun + @$200.00 for the conversion. That's just a guess though. Your mileage may vary.

2) Weight, lack of modes, and lack of battery. The pneumag is all mechanical, and has a very light trigger. The weight of the components that the conversion adds is something like the weight of a nice thick ham sandwich.

An e-mag is significantly heavier, needs recharging, but has the capability of getting all the hyper-blastem-flatter modes that people run in tourneys today.

3) If you don't change your game play too much, you can keep your current loader. I actually don't run my Pneumag fast enough to need any force feed whatever. The 8-10 rounds a second drop from my plain old motorized hopper are just fine.

4) To this point my Pneumag has been pretty much maintenance free. Clean things up after a game and run oil through the system occasionally.

I agree with Robertsr... a Pneumag is the next best thing to sliced bread! The nice part is you can make just about any Mag a Pneumag. All of the components are in the grip frame and you can opt to put an LPR in the grip too or have it external. I have seen a few Pneumags sell, but at times they are too much. I think there are a couple out on AO right now and one in particular is a sweet setup, but they are asking $800! In my mind that is too much for what they have in those. I would assume that a fair price would range from $400-$600 for something completely brand new or in like new condition. Something used or well used would go for about half that. Again, these are basically a mech Mag with pneumatics to make it shoot faster and to give you a super small and light trigger pull. A lot of the cost for one of these will stem from what it was built from. Remember, a new ULE Mag will run around $400+!

The E/X-Mags are completely different than any other gun I have ever owned. I love the way they are electric and then you can flip a switch and they are mechanical again. I loved the E-Mag I had, but my X just makes me They (E/X-mags) are heavier than standard Mags unless you buy all ULE components and then you are still around 3 lbs, which isn't bad if you are used to lugging around a VM. The E mode will allow you to walk the trigger, but mech mode you won't be able too.

FYI, Mags are not low pressure. Use HP air sources and large ones too. I shoot a 68/3000 and get around 700+ shots on average. A 68/4500 or larger will obviously get more. Adjustable output tanks are nice since you can crank up the output pressure to get more of a reactive mode on the trigger, but be careful because it can cause the Mag to "run away!

Overall maitenance is simple. Infact its just as simple as taking care of PPS guns. Usually some oil in the ASA and gas it up followed by firing a few shots to cycle the oil through and you are good to go. Tear down is accomplished by removing the field strip screw that holds the valve on and then sliding the valve out. With a Pneumag, you don't have any more maintenance, but you may have to replace the LP hoses like you would with a cocker and possibly work on the LPR. The maintenance for the Mag's valve is simple. Generally a $10-$20 seal kit will fix all your issues if there is a leak, but as long as you keep some oil on the seals it will last you for a long time.

What kind of Mag to go with generally depends on your style of play and if you want to use CO2 or HPA. Mags work great on HPA, but you can only use CO2 on classic valves. X-Valves are only recommended to use HPA, but a classic valve can use both. ULE components are wonderful, but limited because there aren't very many sources for aftermarket parts. Also, newer ULE bodies are cocker threaded for barrels, so if you don't want twistlock then go with a ULE body, Doc's barrel adapter, Micromag, or an X-Mag so you can use cocker barrels. Another nice point is you don't need a secondary reg. Running an airline straight from the ASA to the valve works the best if you are using HPA.

__________________
"How would you like one across your lip?" - Fred G. Sanford

I forgot to add into my novel about the loaders. If you aren't looking to shoot 15+ bps, but to keep a more civilized rate of around 8-9 bps then a Revvy will do a nice job. I have only outshot my 12 volt Revvy in the backyard when I was walking the trigger on my X-mag in semi mode set to 15 BPS. I will never shoot that fast in a game, but the speed is there if you need it. I have used the same Revvy on a Pump Mag, Minimag, Micromag, E-Mag, and now my X-Mag and it works fine with all of them. The E-Mag and X-Mag could use a force fed loader if you want to throw some paint in a tourney setting, but for rec use that may be a little much.

Please note that the level 10 bolt system is the only anti-chop system that is compatible across all AGD guns (except rentals and possibly Sydarms). Once tuned it works great and I have trusted mine enough to put my fingers in the breech and pulled the trigger (after using something else of course). I wouldn't even attempt that with any other marker or think that any other would even be able to do that. The E-mags do not have "eyes" unless you get a DevilMag or some other custom E-based Mag. The standard AGD E-Mag does not offer eyes or anything but the level 10 to prevent chopping. The X-Mags had an eye and it does work, but the level 10 works better

Oh, and you can usually find a stock or slightly upgraded E-Mag for $400-$500. Obviously the more upgrades the higher the price. Also, there are different versions of the software for E-Mags. AGD 3.2 was the latest distributed release from AGD, but XMod is a recent independed release and works very well if you need all the modes for todays tournaments. AGD 3.2 only offers semi mode.

__________________
"How would you like one across your lip?" - Fred G. Sanford

I see them for sale on the automag forum fairly regularly.
The difference in prices will be the valve.
If its got an Xvalve (which that one doesnt) it will be a couple hundred more.
The ones with aftermarket trigger frames, many of which are out of production,
will be more money too.
Most of the ones that werent jury rig looking were around 700.00 or so
that I have seen.