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Getting ready to do the spring/pin holes. Now in the spartan locker, they use a cup type pin that the spring sits in, is that what you talking about?

Refuting to this

And how the Center chunk it dosnt actually sit all the way in it it's kinda hallowed outward.

Yes, those are what I was referring to. The bores for pins are cross-drilled thru the outside of the clutch center body. One to use a wire to hold the load pins in for assembly, drilled in line with the groove in the pin with the pin fully compressed flush with the face. Another hole from the outside for lubrication near the bottom of the pin bore.

The hollow thru the middle of the "center chunk" was for a cup shaped c-clip retainer for the c-clip on chevy PU axles. Not needed for an R160.

The wide groove in the clutch face of the "center chunk" isn't needed for the R160 either. That was to permit loading the c-clip into the groove on the axles with all the pieces inside the carrier. You could run clutch teeth all the way around for the R160. More clutch engagement = more strength.

The nuts for the splined stubs have to be clear of the cross-pin so they can rotate freely with the outer clutches.
Cylindrical with a obtuse tapered end to mate with tapered reliefs inside the outer pieces using friction would be an easy way.
:DJust a suggestion.

Ever since I got home from class ive been non stop thinking about this project.

Okay, picture time haha.

Now due to this,

It being so close to the cross pin, (and I don't want to change the axel pin length) I am going to have to make the center coupler with a whole to slide down into the outer coupler. It's going to be a tight fit.

And is this little gap changing anything that I should do? When the cross pin sits on it it's not flush with the center "C"..

And seeing as I don't want to change the axel stubs any, I'm going to have to figure something out with the bolt that attatches the outer coupler to the axle stub.

Use the spring clip retainer axles. They just push in from the outside and the clip expands once it clears the splined portion of the bore to keep the axle from coming back out. You can use the 90-94 legacy stubs to run earlier CV's or use 95+ stubs with integrated CV cups.

I've broken a few of the bolt in stubs with a stock clutch type LSD, they are definitely a weak point. Being hollow and having a rollpin hole drilled through doesn't do much for strength.

Use the spring clip retainer axles. They just push in from the outside and the clip expands once it clears the splined portion of the bore to keep the axle from coming back out. You can use the 90-94 legacy stubs to run earlier CV's or use 95+ stubs with integrated CV cups.

Hmm that for sure true! It would be a lot stronger for solid stubs. But right now i think I'm going to stay with the bolt in ones. (probably in the future designing for the clip in) just so I don't have to deal with anything new from what I've already got.

And yeah Gloylae's right, I think they started making them and the end of 94-95 on till now. 00+ stubs I think are all clip in stubs.

Would be better for a solid stud though! Now can these solid stubs be swaped out easy for the bolt in stubs on an Ea diff?

Using the clip in stubs would also same another .25" on both sides from the bolt/screw needed. Which is what I'm kinda hanging up on... Not enough room in there.

You know the assembled gap between the center chunks only has to be 2x the depth of the clutch teeth + say .015-.020" for lubrication/safety. If that helps gain you some needed space then good.

After all, you're designing the prototype & changes can be made as needed later. If it was me I'd use something like 4142 or 4340 steel unhardened for the first one, run it, tear it down & inspect for problems. Can always go for tougher, easy to machine steel alloys afterward. Chop, cut & rehash.

You know the assembled gap between the center chunks only has to be 2x the depth of the clutch teeth + say .015-.020" for lubrication/safety. If that helps gain you some needed space then good.

This is so good info!! I wasn't sure how much I should leave between there.

After all, you're designing the prototype & changes can be made as needed later. If it was me I'd use something like 4142 or 4340 steel unhardened for the first one, run it, tear it down & inspect for problems. Can always go for tougher, easy to machine steel alloys afterward. Chop, cut & rehash.

That what I was thinking as well! It's show wear more too which could be changed and moded.

Now on another note. Should I be worried about someone stealing this idea? Since I'm putting up photos and things?

Just figured out the distince issue from the cross pin!! As I was calculating the center chunk, it would have to be .49" think for it to fit right so both sides can go in with the .28" springage, which the crosspin is .6" so it won't work. I figured out a whole another way! So the bold in stubs will work perfect! The ".14" helps a lot! The wonders of a pencil, and dreaming about the project last night!

Really? I was pretty sure they could be used as conversion stubs for a newer diff in an older car. Pity that. I guess building a hybrid axle is the only way to go to clip in stubs then.

Now on another note. Should I be worried about someone stealing this idea? Since I'm putting up photos and things?

There's been plenty of chance for people to build these but even the big companies that manufacture them for other makes have had no interest in building subaru ones. All they would have to do is resize their CAD drawings to be the right dimensions to fit in a subaru diff instead of reverse-engineering them like you're doing. I think if someone is going to pull it off, it's going to be you. That's why there's so many of us rooting for you to succeed.

As long as you don't go posting the CAD files up on the net your pictures don't show anything more than a generic locker picture would. I wouldn't worry about it, and we love seeing progress pictures.

Thanks WoodsWagon! Glad to hear there are so may people behind me! I know there's already more than 1500 views and this threads only been up for a couple weeks And very true! I'm just surprised no one hasn't yet.

Well made a lot of progress today! Got both sides done, other than the splining and threads on the bolt stub. Just have the spring set up and splines left

And made a small addition to my computer I downloaded solid works on my computer today! Yeah!

What do you guys think?? its all done, (maybe some fine tuning) some one poped there prototype in the 3D prototyper before i got done... so now i have to wait to print this baby out... might be printed out Thursday!

Did you copy the dimensions for the side gear splines(length of splines & chamfers), undercut(?) corner radius on the outside, etc from the R160 in this rendering?
It may be possible to use the old 'nut buttons' from the R160 for the stubs(?)

Did you copy the dimensions for the side gear splines(length of splines & chamfers), undercut(?) corner radius on the outside, etc from the R160 in this rendering?It may be possible to use the old 'nut buttons' from the R160 for the stubs(?)

Good job!

Amount of teeth are diffrent, but same chamfers, undercut, length. Teeth A little wider though due to change in amount of teeth. (major calculations there...)

Bolt in stubs, had to design something to addapt to the bolt peice as its so small in there it wouldn't fit with out an addaptor. (havnt shown it because it's my BABY, and because it's a key to making the the bolt stubs work.) took me days to figure that out. (still may need some tweaking later) Lol.

Printing starts tomarrow!! Get to see this baby in action before i get one made up in real steel!