re- your unfortunate misshap, when i was a young man, i had a car up on a very suspect jack from which, it rolled off onto my hand, now i couldn't reach the jack handle because the tire was on my hand, i couldn't roll it off because i had the hand brake on ( and it worked).

i lay there for several hours until my then girlfriend came round and found me.

as a note about your shifter remote, did you reinforce the ends where the bolt goes through as this is a weak point, from experience doing exactly that.

Actually, i've had a formula ford roll over me in the pits. Luckily my mishaps have been fleeting.

As for the shifter remote, I used my mill for the first time to build a round remote shifter link that is twice as thick as the original square one. I'll watch it to see if it wears out. If it does, I'll have to come up with one that is bushed with bronze I suspect.

I'm fabricating the exhaust and intake before I yank the engine. I bought a racing header for the IMCA series from Speedway Motors and rerouted the primaries out the side of the car. It was much tougher than keeping the collector inside the car and running a single pipe out the side but visually I think its worth it.

The racer walsh intake manifold for side draft webers on the pinto is odd looking because it has to clear the distributor. I opted for a steel home made manifold that runs straight to the head at 45 degrees. It also lets me make the runners the right length to get the air horns poking out the side of the body in an attractive manner.

I know we could talk about pressure waves, versus throttle response and intake runner length but as you'll recall, I'm going for looks and running 5-inch tires. I'm sure the 130 hp this motor is likely to put out will be plenty.

I'll also be running an aluminum flywheels so I get the right rap rap sound at idle...try that with a clean running, inject obd II motor without throwing a lot of trouble codes!

Looks like a whole lot of breathing is going to happen from the intake manifold and the header. The choke point is going to be that tiny un ported cylinder head. I'm thinking of getting a later model ranger head. The cam would have a lot more torque and the ports are much bigger, as are the valves. I'm going to paint the intake to match the valve cover.

Boy, weber parts are very expensive. 39 bucks for each velocity stack. A hundred bucks for linkage to tie the two carbs together.

If I have to buy larger chokes, emulsion tubes or new jets I'll have $900 into two used carbs!

Looks like a whole lot of breathing is going to happen from the intake manifold and the header. The choke point is going to be that tiny un ported cylinder head. I'm thinking of getting a later model ranger head. The cam would have a lot more torque and the ports are much bigger, as are the valves. I'm going to paint the intake to match the valve cover.

Boy, weber parts are very expensive. 39 bucks for each velocity stack. A hundred bucks for linkage to tie the two carbs together.

If I have to buy larger chokes, emulsion tubes or new jets I'll have $900 into two used carbs!

I may have missed it earlier, but which Webber carb are you using? I have an early ranger engine to put into my build as well, and was planning on having a custom header, and perhaps a bank of 4 motorcycle carburettors, but I really like the look of your set up as well. It may just end up getting shamelessly copied.

As far as the head porting goes, there was an interesting post on the Ranger Station forums about cleaning up the combustion chambers. Apparently about half of the circumference of the valve is surrounded by metal, and you can supposedly improve flow quite a bit by tapering this area. Unfortunately this increases combustion chamber volume a bit, so to get the compression ratio back you have to deck the head or get different pistons, so it may or may not be worth the effort.

the unshrouding of the valves thing, be carefull with the exhaust other wise it can go in and straight out the exhaust on overlap.

in this day and age where gas is getting worse by the day, compression is not really the factor that it was in years gone by, charge velocity is the most important factor, followed by quench area of piston/combustion chamber, aim for a .040 gap between the head and the piston in this area, including the gasket crushed thickness.

try not to do any work on the ports at the bottom, just blend the radii in the throat of the valve, if you have to enlarge the ports, go for the top/roof and blend any casting marks, shape is more important than size,(size isn't everything) unless you intend to rev the thing to 10 grand.

i would think the carb setup in the picture is over sized for the application, atomization is the problem on a street engine, two of those webbers, even with small chokes really makes for a pitchy engine with little or no bottom end power. looks cool though but so would a blower sticking out of the hood.

_________________this story shall the good man teach his son,and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,from this day to the end of the world.but we in it shall be remembered.

I may have missed it earlier, but which Webber carb are you using? I have an early ranger engine to put into my build as well, and was planning on having a custom header, and perhaps a bank of 4 motorcycle carburettors, but I really like the look of your set up as well. It may just end up getting shamelessly copied.

As far as the head porting goes, there was an interesting post on the Ranger Station forums about cleaning up the combustion chambers. Apparently about half of the circumference of the valve is surrounded by metal, and you can supposedly improve flow quite a bit by tapering this area. Unfortunately this increases combustion chamber volume a bit, so to get the compression ratio back you have to deck the head or get different pistons, so it may or may not be worth the effort.

I had a friend port an alfa and the whole charge didn't stop long enough in the engine to do much good. On the dyno it made less hp than a stock motor.

As for the carbs, mine are off a smaller stock alfa spyder engine and they work quite well there. I had a pair of similar 40mm on a Datsun 510 and an old dodge colt where they worked very well. I'm leaving the 32 mm chokes in place but I may go to 34 mms eventually.

john hennessy wrote:

Kieth Wilson say "get it in and get it out"

the unshrouding of the valves thing, be carefull with the exhaust other wise it can go in and straight out the exhaust on overlap.

in this day and age where gas is getting worse by the day, compression is not really the factor that it was in years gone by, charge velocity is the most important factor, followed by quench area of piston/combustion chamber, aim for a .040 gap between the head and the piston in this area, including the gasket crushed thickness.

try not to do any work on the ports at the bottom, just blend the radii in the throat of the valve, if you have to enlarge the ports, go for the top/roof and blend any casting marks, shape is more important than size,(size isn't everything) unless you intend to rev the thing to 10 grand.

i would think the carb setup in the picture is over sized for the application, atomization is the problem on a street engine, two of those webbers, even with small chokes really makes for a pitchy engine with little or no bottom end power. looks cool though but so would a blower sticking out of the hood.

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