Per Wesley Hermann, Park Interpreter, Garden of the Gods: All closures are lifted including Tower of Babel

Update as of 8/10/14:

Closures in Garden of the Gods Park for raptor nesting sites have been lifted. This includes the East face of North Gateway, the East Ledges on North Gateway, and the East face of Grey (Kindergarten) Rock. Closures for Migratory Birds are still in effect - this includes the Tower of Babel. We expect this closure to last in to early Fall. Please refer to the map attached. If you have questions, please stop by the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

Climbing closures for Tower of Babel.

Prior closures (pre 8/10/14): There are currently two closures in effect, both on North Gateway Rock. The first closures is for the Eastern Face (including the East ledges), which will include routes like Max's Mayhem, Snuggles/Fall Crack, etc. The second closure is for the Tower of Babel on the North end of Gateway Rock, and includes Anaconda, Ryan's Inferno, The Inferno, and Triple Exposure. The routes listed above are for reference, but may not represent all routes affected, and closures may be subject to change. We've provided a map of North gateway showing these closures.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

North Gateway Closures- East Face and Tower of Babel.

Submitted By: GardenoftheGodsStaff on Mar 5, 2014

Addendum: March 29 - Based on new reports of nesting behavior and of raptors exhibiting signs of stress/defending their nesting sites, we are updating our closures to include Big Sky and Sand in the Vaseline (aka The Route to the Left) on the East face of Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock). Other routes on the East face near the South Summit such as New Era will remain open, but we ask that climbers approach these routes from the South, and avoid the North end/approach of the East Face while the closure is in effect.

This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.

Description

This is a newer sport route on Kindergarten Rock. This climb is the second climb to the left of Diesel Dust. Start it by doing the bouldery crux moves after you clip the first bolt, move through the second bolt. After that, it begins to ease a little. Clip 5 more bolts to get to the anchor.

Location

This is on the East face of Kindergarten Rock. (I refer to the whole rock as Kindergarten, it's been called that from the '80s.)

Protection

9 QDs.

Photos of The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) Slideshow

Just a note - the anchors at the top of the route could use a new, beefy rap chain, much like those added to other routes. One of the two anchors will move laterally in the hole, so the strength of this pair is basically reduced to the other bolt. I would certainly do this myself, but I know that new drilling is sensitive in the Garden, and there is a group of retro-bolters that have a good relationship with the Parks management at the Garden. I've suggested this replacement to them already.

Thanks so much to Stewart, Brian, and crew for replacing so many anchors. The Garden is a great, safe place to climb because of you guys. Thanks to Petzl and Climbing Mag for donating the gear as well.

This route is referred to as "The Extremist" in both D'Antonio's and Geiman's GoG guidebooks. If Civil Disobedience is any type of reference to the route Anarchy, that route is actually downhill a little, between Beat Me Up Scotty and Skyline Pig. Both routes are rated 5.12a/b.

The second clip is sketchy, and the hanger on the bolt spins. Cool route though.

Also, the crux is made significantly easier via a hold out left. I don't if that is considered off route, but if so it's contrived because you can go about 4 feet to the left of the bolt line, still able to clip the bolts. This does, however, make the top part a bit harder.

Cody C. If I'm not mistaken, the original name of the route Anarchy downhill was Question Authority, and was given a stiffer grade, maybe 12c. Civil Disobedience is the route now called The Extremist. Both are considered 12a today. The second bolt on The Extremist definitely needs replacing.