Featured Reviews

The Brennan family have a long association with the Gibbston
region of Central Otago and began their wine journey as contract growers from
their Gibbston vineyard to Peregrine in 1994.
Sean Brennan established the family’s own label with the 2006 vintage. There are a number of eclectic wines from the
13 ha vineyard which gives Brennan a point of difference, made possible by
small batch vinification. The Brennans
tend to the viticulture and Sean has Lou Coutts assisting him in the winemaking
role. In 2017 the Brennans began
bottling and labelling some of their wines on-site. Here, I review the 2017 Riesling and ‘Trio’ a
blend of Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Muscat, the second label 2015 ‘B2’ Pinot
Noir, and 2014 Brennan Pinot Noir. www.brennanwines.com

FEATURED WINES IN THIS REVIEW

Brennan Gibbston Central Otago Riesling 2017

Riesling from New Zealand – Otago

18/20

Bright, light straw-yellow colour with slight green hues,
pale edged. The nose is elegant in
expression with fresh, light aromas of white florals entwined with subtle notes
of lime fruit and mouthwatering wet-stone minerals. This is youthfully taut and under the SO2 the
fruit has purity. Off-dry to taste and
light-medium bodied, the palate is elegant in proportion with a sleek line of
lime fruit, white florals and minerals.
The flavours form a taut and fine core with good linearity, and the wine
carries along a fine line of fruit extract textures with refreshing acidity
providing energy. The flavours carry to
a long, slender, but sustained finish.
This is an elegant and taut dryish Riesling with florals, citrus and
minerals on a sleek line with brisk acidity.
Serve as an aperitif and with seafood over the next 4-5+ years. Riesling fruit tank-fermented to 12.0% alc.
and 5 g/L RS, TA 11 g/L and pH 3.1. 18.0/20 Jul 2018
RRP $33.00

Brilliant, even, light straw-yellow colour with green
hues. The nose is finely proportioned
with good depth and intensity of rose-petal and exotic florals with hints of
citrus fruits and a suggestion of musk.
This is refreshing and steely, quite youthful in expression. Medium-dry to taste and medium-bodied, the
palate has lively and bright flavours rose-petals and exotic florals, hints of
Turkish Delight and spices, along with citrus fruit and musk hints. The fruit is mouthfilling with a good
heart. The mouthfeel is rounded with a
little unctuousness, balanced by fresh, lacy acidity. The wine carries to a long, fragrant
finish. This is a bright and lively
aromatic blended white with rose-petal, exotic florals and a rounded palate and
fresh, balancing acidity. Match with
Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese cuisine over the next 3-4 years. A blend of 45% each Gewurztraminer and
Riesling with 10% Muscat, cool-fermented in tank to 12.5% alc. and 8 g/L
RS. 18.0-/20 Jul 2018
RRP $29.00

Brennan ‘B2’ Central Otago Pinot Noir 2015

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Otago

17.5/20

Dark, deep, ruby-red colour with light purple hues, a little
paler on the rim. The nose is firmly
concentrated with a deep and well-packed core of black cherry fruit with dark
raspberry notes, entwined with dark herbs and some whole bunch stalk
elements. The nose has a soft density
and solidness to the presentation. Medium-full
bodied, the palate has rich and juicy flavours of dark-red and black cherries
interwoven with fresh and dark herbs, and subtle whole bunch suggestions. The flavours form a concentrated, but rounded
core that offers accessibility. The
fruit is underlined by light, grainy tannin structure with fresh acidity
lending tension and energy. The wine
carries to a soft, full, moderately long finish. This is a rounded, rich Pinot Noir with
accessible flavours of dark-red and black cherries with herb notes and fresh
acidity. Match with poultry, pork, beef
and lamb over the next 4+ years. Gibbston
estate fruit, clones 10/5, 5, 115, 667, 777 and Abel, fermented partially by
indigenous yeasts with 20% whole clusters to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 10.5
months in 27% new oak. 17.5/20 Jul 2018
RRP $35.00

Brennan Gibbston Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014

Pinot Noir from New Zealand – Otago

18.5/20

Dark ruby-red colour with some depth, lighter on the
edge. The bouquet is elegantly presented
with voluminous, ethereal aromas of dark-red and black cherry fruit along with
a thread of dark and fresh herbs, with whole bunch stalk perfumes, unfolding
dark-red florals. This has a tight core
and the classical cool edginess of Gibbston.
Medium-full bodied, the palate is finely proportioned with sleek, but
intense flavours of dark-red and black cherry fruit intermixed with notes of
dark herbs and dark-red florals. The
flavours unfold to fill the palate with ethereal fragrance, all supported by
fine-grained, flowery tannin extraction with balanced acidity. The palate has good linearity and drive,
carrying to a very long, taut finish.
This is a finely presented Pinot Noir with black cherry fruit integrated
with dark herbs and florals and ethereal perfumes on a fine-textured palate. Match with poultry and pork dishes over the
next 6-8 years. Fruit from the estate
Gibbston vineyard, clones 10/5, 5, 115, 667, 777, Abel and 6, fermented
partially by indigenous yeasts to 13.5% alc., the wine aged 11 months in 45%
new oak. 18.5/20 Jul 2018
RRP $65.00

Even ruby-red colour, a little lighter on the edge. This has a full, broad and well-packed nose
with deep and complex aromas of vibrant, dark-red and black-berried fruits
along with subtle notes of dark herbs, spice, earthy detail and some lifted
oak, unfolding suggestions of violet and black-red florals. Medium-full bodied, the palate possesses
sweetly rich and bright fruit flavours of dark red berry fruit with savoury
cherry elements, along with nuances of fresh, dark herbs, revealing a little earth,
spice and red florals. The fruit is
enlivened by fresh, lacy acidity and supported by fine-grained, supple tannin
extraction, and the wine flows with energy and tension, carrying to a long,
elegant finish. This is an elegant,
sweet and vibrant fruited Pinot Noir with freshness, detail and supple
structure. Match with duck and pork
dishes over the next 5-6 years. Clones 5,
667, 777, 115, 10/5 and 6 from Brennan vineyards, fermented with 15% indigenous
yeasts and 15-20% whole bunches to 13.5% alc., the wine on skins 30 days and
aged 11 months in 45% new oak. 702 dozen
made. 18.5-/20 Jan 2017
RRP $55.00