Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

Sarah

good to know, need to do mine ASAP....BTW there is oil resistant threadlocker available, plan to use it when I do the job, especially if I don't remove the clutch basket

Some folks use a screwdriver bit and a wrench. We used one of these with the back side of the "neck" filed down to give a bit more clearance. It's a little fiddley but works just fine, we've used it on three bikes now. Remove, degrease, and loctite one screw at a time or the whole assembly will want to pop out as it's got a spring under there.

I tried that and also one that had an angled handle, neither fit in there well enough to tighten anything. I only used it to take the old screws out though, got Allen heads and drilled them for safety wire to put in. I know that a lot of people have had great luck with Locktite but ... I was too lazy to remove the clutch and didn't figure that I could degrease the holes very well without better access, also I have seen plastic have a bad reaction to Locktite and disintegrate. I didn't want to have to be fishing pieces of the NSU out of the sump. So old fashioned wire was my choice, it is a real pia to do it underneath the clutch but I got it done. When all was said and done, it probably would have been quicker and easier to remove the clutch (doah, not like that hasn't been already said but sometimes you just have to try...)! The worst part of the job for me was the hours that I spent getting the old gasket off. Mine was in pretty good shape and I could probably put a bit of sealer on and been fine but I had a new gasket so ....
Neither of my NSU screws was 'loose' (as in falling out) but I could not detect ANY 'breaking torque' in turning one of them out, the other required very little effort to start turning.

'09 DR650 just turned 6K miles today and about 20 miles from home exhaust got a little bit louder. About 10 miles got a whole lot louder. Figured it was a crack somewhere on the head pipe as that where the sound was coming from.

Thought about stopping and worried a little about doing engine damage but had no other way to get home so babied it the last 10 miles.

WTF! The head pipe is broken clean off at the flange where it bolts up and there is about 1/2" gap 360 degrees, actually looks like someone cut it off with a rough blade hacksaw.

Is this a common occurence?

Only motor mods are opened up breather box with DT-1 air filter, Pro-Cycle jet kit, and GSXR1000 muffler with Kientech mid-pipe on OEM header.

I tried that and also one that had an angled handle, neither fit in there well enough to tighten anything. I only used it to take the old screws out though, got Allen heads and drilled them for safety wire to put in. I know that a lot of people have had great luck with Locktite but ... I was too lazy to remove the clutch and didn't figure that I could degrease the holes very well without better access, also I have seen plastic have a bad reaction to Locktite and disintegrate. I didn't want to have to be fishing pieces of the NSU out of the sump. So old fashioned wire was my choice, it is a real pia to do it underneath the clutch but I got it done. When all was said and done, it probably would have been quicker and easier to remove the clutch (doah, not like that hasn't been already said but sometimes you just have to try...)! The worst part of the job for me was the hours that I spent getting the old gasket off. Mine was in pretty good shape and I could probably put a bit of sealer on and been fine but I had a new gasket so ....
Neither of my NSU screws was 'loose' (as in falling out) but I could not detect ANY 'breaking torque' in turning one of them out, the other required very little effort to start turning.

Bruce

Thanks guys.

I wonder if I ground that selector down if it would fit better?

Surely someone has to make an offset driver that would fit well enough... but then I haven't been in there, and it may be more complex than I'm thinking in getting up under the clutch plates.

Surely someone has to make an offset driver that would fit well enough... but then I haven't been in there, and it may be more complex than I'm thinking in getting up under the clutch plates.

It is 'really interesting' getting anything in there. One of those cases where you can see what you need to do but once you fit something in ... you can't turn the fastener much. I ended up grinding an Allen wrench, way down to where there was barely enough shank to fit into the screw head to replace my screws. Even if you grind everything off the back side of that driver, I am not sure that it will fit but obviously something will. I did get the screws out, I just don't recall what I ended up using as every 'screw turning thing' I had was out at the time. You will get it done but don't plan on it being quick or easy.