Philippines: Was it Boracay? Or was it me?

CaptionManila, Philippines

Catharine M. Hamm / Los Angeles Times

Manila, the capital of Philippines, is hot, smoggy and congested--you know, a lot like L.A. but with more humidity. A respite from the metro area of 12 million seemed like a good idea. There are 7,000 islands to choose from; I chose Boracay.

Manila, the capital of Philippines, is hot, smoggy and congested--you know, a lot like L.A. but with more humidity. A respite from the metro area of 12 million seemed like a good idea. There are 7,000 islands to choose from; I chose Boracay. (Catharine M. Hamm / Los Angeles Times)

Tourists started discovering Boracay (pronounced Bora-Kai) in the '70s, but its popularity has grown like mad the last 10 years. The 4-square-mile-island is an easy hour flight from Manila. After spending time in the capital, I was ready for something easy.

Tourists started discovering Boracay (pronounced Bora-Kai) in the '70s, but its popularity has grown like mad the last 10 years. The 4-square-mile-island is an easy hour flight from Manila. After spending time in the capital, I was ready for something easy. (Tia Lai / Los Angeles Times)

The prop plane was full of people who were eager to shed their business suits for swim suits. So were my friend Jan and I. We couldn't wait to set eyes on this world-famous destination, but first, we had to take a couple of more modes of transportation to get us from Boracay airport (actually...

The prop plane was full of people who were eager to shed their business suits for swim suits. So were my friend Jan and I. We couldn't wait to set eyes on this world-famous destination, but first, we had to take a couple of more modes of transportation to get us from Boracay airport (actually... (Catharine M. Hamm / Los Angeles Times)

A shuttle bus took us from the airport to the jetty, where porters carried our luggage. It might have been a little heavier than they were used to. We learned, too late, that the weight limit for the flight was 15 kilos, or about 33 pounds. Oops. Big overage charges. I wondered later whether it...

A shuttle bus took us from the airport to the jetty, where porters carried our luggage. It might have been a little heavier than they were used to. We learned, too late, that the weight limit for the flight was 15 kilos, or about 33 pounds. Oops. Big overage charges. I wondered later whether it... (Catharine M. Hamm / Los Angeles Times)

The captain of our boat must have been as eager as I to get to that little piece of paradise because he drove this vessel like a cigarette boat straight out of "Miami Vice." (Alas, this wasn't a cigarette boat.) We bounced along the waves and were at Boracay town in no time. Another shuttle bus...

The captain of our boat must have been as eager as I to get to that little piece of paradise because he drove this vessel like a cigarette boat straight out of "Miami Vice." (Alas, this wasn't a cigarette boat.) We bounced along the waves and were at Boracay town in no time. Another shuttle bus... (Catharine M. Hamm / Los Angeles Times)

On a September Sunday, hoping to escape the heat, humidity and traffic of Manila, I hopped a one-hour flight to Boracay Island, often praised for its powdery sand beaches and its turquoise waters. The island wins kudos from Travel & Leisure and TripAdvisor, and it's expecting 1.5 million...