Get a Head Start on Fall’s Statement Jewelry Trend With Sonia Boyajian’s Arty Baubles

Now that statement jewelry is back on our radar—see Marni, Balenciaga, and Loewe’s Fall ’16 runways for proof—it’s a good time to be Sonia Boyajian. The Los Angeles–based designer has been handcrafting her playful, oversize baubles for nearly 13 years, and no matter what the trends dictated, she stuck to her vision. Remember when dainty chains and multiple hoops were all the rage? Boyajian’s customers—many of whom are women in the art and fashion worlds—didn’t stop collecting her mismatched crystal rings, gumball-size pearl earrings, and tangled necklaces. They’re statement pieces that don’t shout too loudly and can take jeans and a T-shirt to a quirky, unexpected new place. “I would say my jewelry has a sense of humor but with a really fine finish,” Boyajian says. “It’s jewelry that should evoke joy when you look at it.” Color is a big part of that cheerful, unpretentious spirit; her Fall offering, which was inspired by Peggy Guggenheim’s art collections, included giant crystal earrings and necklaces in candy shades, but there were also subtler pieces in plain gold.

A bigger part of Boyajian’s business is custom work. Women who visit her studio might bring a bag of old jewelry to melt down and turn into something new, or they’ll flip through her archives and ask Boyajian to re-create a necklace from six years ago—either as is or with a few tweaks, like a different stone or longer length. There’s no real limit on what Boyajian can do, because she hand-makes every single part of a piece, from the ceramics and faux pearls down to the gold wire and trimmings. “When I first started out, I was doing a lot of flea marketing to find my materials, but it was impossible to keep doing that as the business grew. So I started making everything, and that’s what I feel is unique about my jewelry—there’s not one component you can buy anywhere else. It’s not very often you can buy jewelry and the designer is the actual maker of the piece, too.” That approach doesn’t lend itself particularly well to wholesaling, but Boyajian prefers it that way. In fact, her detachment from the traditional “retail cycle” might be the secret to her success; she tried mass production several years ago at Barneys and Harvey Nichols but quickly realized it didn’t make sense for her brand. “There’s already so much jewelry out there, and I didn’t want to be just another jewelry designer,” she says. “I didn’t have a connection to the customers, and my pieces have so much meaning that I think it’s important to explain them in person.”

By next season, lots of the statement pieces you’ll find in stores will come with a steep price tag, too. But Boyajian’s pieces range from $100 to $2,500 (with varying prices for custom work), making many of her pieces a much easier investment. We have our eyes on the Pierced Pearl Earrings and Pyramid Rings, but you can browse all of her jewelry online at shop.soniabstyle.com, or contact sonia@soniabstyle.com to make an appointment in her studio.