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As an avid hiker and outdoor enthusiast, my travel itineraries
tend to feature less time spent in cities and more time in rural
communities and near the mountains.

In fact, when traveling through Argentina I expected to spend
very little time in the capital of Buenos Aires. You’ve seen one
city you’ve seen them all, right?

I booked one night in the Art Factory Hostel, wanting to forgo
luxury travel for awhile, mingle with some backpackers and
immerse myself in walls upon walls of local art; however, after
one day exploring the San Telmo, Recoleta and the trendy Palermo
I was in love. In fact, my one night turned into two weeks.

Feria de San Telmo

It probably didn’t help my growing attachment that I started my
visit on a Sunday. You see, while other cities sleep at the end
of the weekend, Buenos Aires is at its liveliest.

There are just so many things to do in Buenos Aires. Sunday is
when you’ll find markets and fairs littered all over the city,
the most notable one being the Feria de San Telmo. San Telmo is
known for having a large selection of antiques, and the fair
showcases endless stalls and storefronts selling ancient Japanese
swords, old soda bottles, vintage telephones, antique cutlery,
old dollars and more. Not only that, but you can purchase
high-end liquors and local artwork from all different
disciplines.

What really captivated me about the market was the ambiance.
While locals and tourists alike excitedly browsed the myriad
offerings for purchase, sexy tango dancers performed fiery
ensembles that made me both blush and applaud. And on the corner
of Calles Mexico and Defensa my ears were not only captivated by
traditional folklore music being played live, but also a street
barbecue of juicy choripan, plump and flavorful chorizo
sausages topped with condiments like ketchup, mustard, mayo and
chimichurri. Each bite sent pork juice and sauerkraut dribbling
down my chin, a truly epicurious experience enhanced by the magic
fingers of the local guitar player.

Learning To Tango

After watching the sensual, passionate moves of the tango dancers
in San Telmo I didn’t want to simply see a tango show like the
other tourists, I wanted to learn to tango. Luckily, a local
friend was able to put me in touch with a man named Juan who has
global choreographing experience willing to give me a private
lesson.

“Tango is a partner dance, so you’ll need to read your partners
body which will tell you how to move as a response,” explains
Juan.

As someone who gets weirded out by holding hands, I knew this
would be a bit of a struggle; however, after seeing the languid,
flowing bodies and beautiful moves of the tango dancers from the
fair I was now on a mission. I wanted to learn to dance tango —
and well enough that if a handsome local asked me for an
impromptu dance in the park I wouldn’t embarrass myself.

Juan opens a bottle of Malbec. “Wine is also a big part of the
tango experience. Having a glass can help loosen you up.”

I take a few sips, willing it to hit my brain fast and turn me
into carefree and graceful performance artist — or at least get
rid of my ability to care. There’s no time, however, as Juan
wants to get right down to work. He begins by explaining an
important part of the dance is having a natural embrace with your
partner, holding each other securely but allowing for movement.
Dancers use this and the music to help form a connection, another
vital piece in the puzzle that is a good tango dance. He teaches
me the “tango walk” — a sequence of steps meant to help us walk
in line together — adjusts my posture a few times to have a
strong confident core and straight spine, and makes sure I keep
eye contact, even when I feel awkward.

It takes me about five tries (or maybe 30) until I am feeling
somewhat confident. I’m not sure if it’s just the wine making me
get a big head when Juan suddenly turns to me. “Do you have
family from Argentina? I can tell you you have some Latin blood
in you.”

While I did not have any Latin blood, I was happy for the
compliment. Maybe I would be able to bring some of the culture
home and tango with my friends when we’re out dancing. Although I
know this probably won’t happen, I do smile at the thought of
allowing some Argentinian culture to work its way into my veins.
I may not have been born with Latin blood but I would try to make
some.

Local Coffee Culture

Dance isn’t the only thing Portenos — a nickname for
locals of Buenos Aires — are passionate about, as the city is
home to a strong coffee culture. In fact, 53 of the city’s oldest
cafes are registered as culture and heritage landmarks of the
city. I decide to explore this facet of the local culture at
Argentina’s oldest coffee shop, Cafe Tortoni.

Established in 1858, Cafe Tortoni will transport you to the roots
of Argentine coffee
culture. The tattered walls, antique furniture, silver
platters and traditional artwork add old world charm while
newspaper clippings and artifacts allow you to learn more about
the cafe. While the decor is dated in a whimsical fashion, the
menu offers updated and artisanally-crafted selections.

While I’m used to enjoying my coffee in the morning, Cafe Tortoni
doesn’t open until 5pm, with locals going there in the evenings
to enjoy a pre-dinner snack. As dinner isn’t typically eaten
until 10pm or later, coffee and biscuits can provide a nice
energy jolt.

Not surprisingly, the strong coffee culture of Buenos Aires comes
with its own way of ordering:

To order a small espresso shot, make a “c” shape with your
hands (shown above). You don’t even need to say anything,
although if you want to say “cafe” while doing the gesture.

Artistic Immersion

Bursting with art-inspired accommodations, creative cafes,
graffiti tours, passionate street art, art museums and boutique
galleries, Buenos Aires is an immersive art experience in itself.
Simply strolling the streets — especially in neighborhoods like
San Telmo and Palermo — will make you feel like you’re wandering
through a museum without walls as you take in endless murals and
street paintings.

While in New
York I was used to seeing names and markings
haphazardly sprayed onto brownstone walls, the works in Buenos
Aires were thought-provoking and full of emotion. After spending
a few days in the city it isn’t hard to figure out why. Here at
least one protest happens per day, especially in front of the
Casa Rosada on Plaza de Mayo and down Avenida de Mayo. These
locals are opinionated, especially when it comes to politics, and
will express themselves in any way they can.

For those interested in a more structured art experience, there’s an
endless amount of creative institutions, like the National Museum
of Decorative Arts, National Museum of Fine Arts and Museum of
Latin American Art of Buenos Aires. One truly local art
experience is heading to Hollywood in Cambodia, a bar and urban art gallery
in one. The space was opened in 2006 when the owners of Post Street Bar decided to do something creative
and began approaching stencil artists to help them decorate the
inside of the venue. Because the owners didn’t have the money,
they offered the artists three rooms at the back of the bar, rent
free, to use however they pleased. From there, the artists
covered every inch of the bar and terrace with intricate stencil
art, free from any commercial pressure or influence. One room
became a permanent gallery and shop, and the two others were
transformed into temporary exhibition spaces. This is what
visitors can experience today.

What’s really interesting when you walk into the space is how
hard it is to tell where the gallery starts and where the bar
stops. All of the bar space – the outside walls, terrace and even
the toilets – have been covered in art. This is because the
artists use the bar as an extension of the gallery space, running
workshops and video screenings. Understandably, the bar ends up
being a popular place to hangout for the artists and their
friends. In fact, exhibition opening nights showcasing cutting
edge art often end up becoming wild parties.

Making Connections Through Mate Drinking

It is at Hollywood in Cambodia that I meet Javiar, a
born-and-raised Porteno who introduces me to another important cultural facet, mate. Anyone who has
ever visited Argentina has seen locals walking around with
open-metal cups with long metal straws. Upon first glance I had
assumed they were drinking tea; however, they were actually
drinking mate.

Mate is a blend of You’re drinking yerba mate leaves with
caffeine, herbs, protein and hot water The “metal cup” is
actually veneered wood called a mate, while the long
metal straw is called a bombilla. Along with drinking
the concoction for a boost of energy it also provides a very
social aspect to the culture, giving locals an excuse to get
together and pass around some mate.

Drinking the mate is almost like a ceremony. The one who prepares
it takes the first taste before passing it on to the next person
until they say “thank you,” which means they are finished. It
reminds me of watching my pothead roommates in college smoke with
random strangers in our living room and pass joints around,
making new friends without question. There was a sense of
community they seemed to form, which is what seems to be
happening with the mate.

The drink smells pungent, and I wince for a quick second when I
try it for the first time. I don’t want to be rude though – and I
am interested to see what all the hype is about – so I sip.
Javier notices my face twist in agony and runs to grab some
sugar.

“Add this,” he advises. “It can be pretty bitter, especially if
you’ve never had it before.”

We pass the mate around again, this time with the sugar added.
When it comes back to me, I don’t say thank you but simply take
the cup. I know better than to take a whiff this time and just go
for it. While the drink is still bitter, it’s much better than
last time. And, as the mate keeps going around the circle, it
gets better and better. We sit for hours, playing board games,
laughing and talking about the differences between American and
Argentine culture.

“In New York I don’t think I’ve ever known anybody to have
friends over on a weekend night just to hangout and drink
anything that wasn’t beer or liquor,” I say. “Maybe I’ll be the
first when I get home.”

I smile to myself, thinking about how nice it would be to bring
some of this beautiful Argentinian culture home.

The Logistics

Art Accommodations. While backpackers and
budget-travelers will love the laid-back ambiance, self-catering
kitchen, free events and small price tag of the Art
Factory Hostel in San Telmo, those looking for a more upscale
experience should book a room at A Hotel. Located in Recoleta in a restored
historical townhouse, A Hotel (the “A” stands for “art”) features
a first-floor art gallery and guestrooms filled with drawings,
paintings, photographs and sculptures by local artists.

Local Fairs and Markets. Fairs and markets
abound in Buenos Aires, providing a great way to peruse local
handicrafts and artwork, take in a free and al fresco tango show,
hear live music, and sample typical delicacies. The most popular
of these fairs is the Feria de San Telmo, held on Sundays from
10am to sundown, which focuses on antiques, art and quirky finds.
You’ll also see live tango and street performances. On Saturdays
and Sundays you’ll find an artisanal fair in Plaza Francia near
Recoleta Cemetery, with over 100 stalls of traditional pottery,
leather products, traditional foods and street performers. In the
Palermo Soho area, you’ll find numerous markets, like the one at
Plaza Serrano, which has a hippie vibe and is great for finding
unusual clothing items and alternative jewelry. You can also stop
by Plaza Armenia for handmade goods, keepsakes and clothing.

Street Art. There are many options for those who
want to learn more about local art. We recommend taking a
graffiti tour with
Graffitimundo, where you’ll not only see interesting street
art but also learn about the artists and the meanings behind the
works.

Coffee Shops. The above mentioned Cafe Toronti
is located at Avenida de Mayo 825. Another great cafe in Buenos
Aires is EL Gato Negro (Avenida Corrientes 1669), featuring walls
lined with spices, exotic teas and coffees and has a coffee salon
vibe with a variety of high quality coffee beans. There’s also
Establecimiento General (Avenida Pueyrredon 1529), which has over
30 different coffee varieties served in both traditional and
non-traditional ways.