Bon anniversaire to Longchamp, which was founded 70 years ago. Initially, Jean Cassegrain’s company specialized in leather-clad smoking pipes—a category that wouldn’t find much traction now—before broadening its remit and slowly growing into the concern it is today.

This morning, Sophie Delafontaine (granddaughter of Jean) showed an anniversary collection she said was inspired by “the spirit of playing around, and of an Amazon woman—we tried to make very feminine pieces with lots of character.” In the Ready-to-Wear there was a heavy emphasis on outerwear layered over long silk or broderie anglaise dresses and three heights of boots that came sometimes fringed, sometimes braided, and sometimes unadorned.

There was a long, shaggy shearling gilet, available in seven colors, designed to act as a midwinter bridge between the statement outerwear pieces and the softer layers beneath. Those statements included a patched coat of rabbit in differently dyed shades and some strong reversible shearlings. Delafontaine characterized one suite of bucket bags as a “cozy moment”: They came in richly dyed rabbit. They did indeed look cozy, but the way the wind is blowing and consumer tastes are evolving, real fur soon seems set to go the way of the leather-clad smoking pipe. For now, said Delafontaine, her customer wants fur. Yet she added the meaningful caveat that Longchamp uses only fur “coming from animals we eat. I have no mink, no fox. Just like the leather, it is only coming from animals that are already being slaughtered.” That won’t satisfy a vegan, but it does at least avoid waste.