Description

Approach as per Nice Little Crack. This is the bolted face. Tricky start over the 1st roof, leads to edges and fun climbing. Midway you will find a bulge, friction over this avoiding the foot crack to the left. Finally, trick #3, pop over the top roof. And there... the anchors?.

Protection

2 bolts atop for the anchor, BEWARE one is suspect. Also, 7 draws for the route. You will also need a small set of medium gear for the upper roof.

I climbed this in Fall 2001. The anchor at the top was pretty crappy. Look for a (better) third bolt up above the first two (one of which spins). I found a CTR ring up here on a tiny (2"x2") ledge. Weird.

Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors.

Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams).