Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet

Horticulture and Crop Science

2001 Fyffe Court, Columbus, OH 43210-1096

Strawberries are an Excellent Fruit for the Home Garden

HYG-1424-98

Gary Gao

Figure 1. Fresh ripe strawberries being harvested

Strawberries are well suited for planting in the home garden since
they produce fruits very quickly, and require a relatively small
amount of space (Figure 1). Each plant may produce up to one quart of
fruit when grown in a matted row during the first fruiting year.
Twenty-five plants will normally produce enough strawberries for an
average sized family. Production usually declines during the second
and third years of fruiting; therefore a new planting should be
established after strawberry plants produce fruits for more than 3 to
4 years for maximum production.

Strawberry plants produce attractive fruit with fine flavor.
Strawberries have a very high vitamin C content and are versatile as a
dessert food. Most cultivars of strawberries are well suited to
freezing and processing as well as for fresh use. Many people enjoy
eating the fresh-picked fruit. Strawberries are also excellent for
jams, jellies, and pies. Freshly sliced and sugared strawberries are
excellent when served chilled either alone or over shortcake or ice
cream. In addition, strawberries contain a natural substance called
ellagic acid, which is an anti-carcinogenic (cancer-preventing)
compound.

June-Bearers vs. Day-Neutral Types

Strawberry plants may be of two major types, June-bearing or
day-neutral. June-bearing plants are cultured to produce a full crop
the season after planting. In Ohio, the ripening season of
June-bearing strawberry cultivars ranges from late May to the end of
June. Day-neutral type strawberry plants differ from the standard or
June-bearing types in that they produce a full crop the first season
they are planted. June-bearing types are most popular for the home
garden and commercial use and are well worth waiting for because of
their flavor and quality. One cannot tell by looking at the plant
whether they are of the day-neutral or June-bearing type; therefore,
when purchasing plants, it is important to specify which type is
desired. It is certainly a good idea to plant both types to get fruit
production in the first year from day-neutral strawberries, and high
yield and quality from June-bearing strawberries.

Figure 2. Earliglow fruits in a quart

Cultivar Selection

Home fruit growers have a large number of cultivars (varieties) to
select from. The selection is much greater for the June-bearing types
than for the day-neutral types. Strawberry cultivars recommended for
growing in Ohio are listed in Table 1.

It is important to know the ripening season, yield, berry size,
freezing quality, and dessert quality of recommended cultivars in
order to select cultivars according to personal needs (Table 1). In
addition, selecting disease resistant cultivars will help growers
reduce the risks of damage from plant diseases (Table 2). Refer to
Table 2 for the disease resistance of the recommended strawberry
cultivars. Home strawberry growers are encouraged to check the
references listed or talk with Extension Agents or local commercial
strawberry growers for additional information about strawberry
cultivars.

Planting Site Requirements for Strawberry Plants

Strawberry plants require full sun for the maximum yield and the best
quality. They will grow and produce crops in several different types
of soil. However, best results are obtained when the plants are grown
in loose, fertile soils containing large quantities of organic matter.
The soil should be slightly acidic, having a pH of 5.8 to 6.5. If the
extent of soil acidity or fertility is unknown, it is suggested that
the soil be sampled and tested. Arrangements for soil testing can be
made through your county Extension office. Request special tests for
organic matter and boron. Lime and fertilizers should be applied to
soils according to soil test results.

The strawberry plant is sensitive to excessive soil moisture.
Strawberries should be planted in raised beds or on ridges if drainage
is a problem. Also, avoid planting strawberry plants in areas where
potatoes, tomatoes, or sod were grown recently. Insect and disease
problems may result in serious plant damage in such areas.

Cultural Problems for Growing Strawberry Plants

Important cultural practices for growing strawberries include planting
techniques and spacing, weed control, proper fertilizer, blossom
removal, irrigation, renovation of strawberries after harvest, insect
and disease control, and mulch for protection from cold temperatures
and diseases.

Planting and Spacing

Early spring is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as
soil is not too wet. Fall planting is not recommended because plants
can be injured by soil heaving (alternate freezing and thawing).
Strawberry plants have roots, a crown, and leaves (Figure 3). The
crown is a short stem between the roots and leaves.

When planting, make sure to cover the roots and only half of the crown
with soil. Make a trench deep enough to set the roots vertically. Do
not bend roots horizontally.

June-bearing plants are spaced 12 to 24 inches apart. On close-spaced
plants, runners are controlled by removing unwanted runners during the
first season. In August, rows should be 18 to 24 inches wide with
plants 6 to 8 inches apart in the row. Generally rows are 36 to 40
inches apart. A circular terrace can be used if one has limited space
(Figure 4).

For day-neutral strawberries, plants are set 8 to 12 inches apart in
the row with 30 to 36 inches between rows. Remove runners throughout
the first season and remove flowers for the first 6 weeks after
planting. Mulch the planting with 3 to 4 inches of straw or wood chips
to conserve moisture.

Figure 3. Diagram of a strawberry plant

Weed Control

Lime and Fertilizers

Soil testing every two to three years is highly recommended for the
best yield and quality. Apply nutrients and lime (if needed) prior to
planting according to soil test results. Apply 1 ounce (10 oz.
10-10-10) of actual nitrogen broadcast per 100 square feet of plant or
0.5 ounce (5 oz. 10-10-10) banned 4 to 6 inches away from the plants 7
to 10 days after planting. Apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual nitrogen
broadcast in mid-June if rainfall has been excessive and again in
mid-August. In the fruiting years, apply 1 to 1.5 ounces actual
nitrogen broadcast after harvest and again in mid-August.

Blossom Removal

Remove the flower stalks of June-bearing strawberry plants as they
appear throughout the first growing season. More production can be
expected if the plants are allowed to attain large size before
fruiting. Remove the blossoms of day-neutral types of plants as they
appear until about the middle of June (first year only). Then allow
flowers to set fruit for harvest during the remainder of the season
(August through October).

Table 1. Cultural Characteristics of Recommended Strawberry Cultivars

Cultivar

Ripening Season (Days After Earliglow)

Berry Size

Freezing Quality

Dessert Quality

Yield

June-Bearers

Earliglow

0

Med‚Large

Very Good

Very Good

Medium

Lester

5

Large

Fair

Good

Medium

Redchief

5

Large

Very Good

Good

High

Surecrop

5

Large

Good

Good

Medium

Guardian

8

Very Large

Fair

Good

High

Midway

9

Med‚Large

Very Good

Good

High

Kent

10 Large

Poor

Fair

High

Delite

10

Large

Good

Fair

High

Lateglow

12

Large

Fair

Good

High

Day-Neutral

Tristar

5

Small

Good

Fair

Medium

Tribute

5

Small

Good

Fair

Medium

Table 2. Disease Resistance of Recommended Strawberry Cultivars

Cultivar

Leaf Spot

Leaf Scorch

Red Stele

Verticilium Wilt

Powdery Mildew

June-Bearers

Earliglow

R

R

R

R

S to I

Guardian

S to I

R

R

R

S

Midway

VS

S

R

I

U

Lester

U

R

R

S

R

Redchief

S

R

R

I

R

Kent

S

I

S

S

S

Surecrop

I to R

I

R

VR

U

Delite

R

R

R

R

U

Lateglow

R

R

R

VR

S

Day-Neutral

Tristar

T

T

R

T to R

R

Tribute

T

T

R

R

R

S = susceptible, VS = very susceptible, I = intermediate reaction, R = resistant (the disease does not occur on that cultivar or only to a very small degree), VR = very resistant, T = tolerant (the disease is clearly evident, but with little or no apparent detrimental effect on plant or yield), U = unknown.
*Cultivars are only resistant to specific races of the red stele fungus. If races are present in the planting or are introduced into planting for which resistance genes are not available, red stele can develop on "resistant" cultivars.

Irrigation

Additional watering is needed during dry seasons. Plants require 1
inch to 1.5 inches of water per week from mid-June to mid-August. Take
care in watering so that the soil does not remain soggy for any
prolonged period.

Figure 4. Strawberries in a circular terrace

Renovation of Strawberries After Harvest

Strawberry plants can be fruited more than one year but probably not
for more than three harvest seasons, depending on the vigor and number
of plants. June-bearing strawberries should be renovated every year
right after harvest if one desires excellent fruit production for more
than one year.

First control weeds by mechanical means or labeled herbicides. Remove
all old leaves with a mower or a sickle. Make sure to set the mower as
high as the blade will go to avoid injuring plant crowns. Narrow the
rows to a width of about 12 inches by cultivating between them with a
rotary tiller. Thin the plants within each row, leaving 4 to 6 inches
between plants. Topdress beds with 0.5 to 1 inch of soil. Broadcast
2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of planting.
Apply 1 inch of water each week to promote growth if it does not rain.
The strawberry patch may look very depressing right after renovation
(Figure 5). However, strawberry plants do recover beautifully (Figure
6) and will be much more productive.

Figure 5. Strawberry patch right after renovation

Insect and Disease Control

Many problems due to insects and diseases in the home garden can be
avoided by selecting sites where sod, tomatoes, or potatoes have not
been recently grown; planting disease-free and disease-resistant
planting stock; and using good cultural practices. For additional
information on insect and disease management, refer to the following
OSU Extension publications: Bulletin 780, Controlling Disease and
Insects in Home Fruit Plantings; Bulletin 506 B2, Ohio Commercial
Small Fruit and Grape Spray Guide; and Bulletin 861, Midwest Small
Fruit Pest Management Handbook.

Winter Mulching

In addition to value for weed control, mulching is necessary to
provide winter protection for the plants. Apply straw that is free of
weed seeds two to three inches deep over the plants after they have
been subjected to several sharp freezes in the low 30s or high 20s in
fall. This is generally between November 15 and 30, but no later than
December 15.

Figure 6. Strawberry patch one week after renovation

Frost Protection

Strawberry flower buds are very susceptible to spring frosts. Mulches
used for winter protection should be pulled from plants in early
spring, before there is much leaf yellowing. The mulch should be left
in the alleyways and can be used to cover blossom in the spring when
frost is predicted, especially with early cultivars, such as
Earliglow. Frost protection could be the difference between a good
crop and no crop.

The author gratefully acknowledges Richard C. Funt, and J. D. Utzinger
on whose original fact sheet this is based. The author also likes to
thank Gayle Lykins for her secretarial help with this fact sheet.

Refer to the list of useful references for additional information on
home fruit production.

NOTE: Disclaimer - This publication may contain pesticide
recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These
recommendations are provided only as a guide. It is always the
pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all
current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Due
to constantly changing labels and product registrations, some of the
recommendations given in this writing may no longer be legal by the
time you read them. If any information in these recommendations
disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be disregarded. No
endorsement is intended for products mentioned, nor is criticism
meant for products not mentioned. The author and Ohio State
University Extension assume no liability resulting from the use of
these recommendations.

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