Restaurant review: Marina O’Loughlin on Supawan, King’s Cross, London

Dropping the fourth wall for a minute, I’m going to answer a question I get asked regularly, often accompanied by varying degrees of “Why not my favourite local Italian?” querulousness. How do I find and decide where to review?

So here goes: there are the obvious targets, of course, the big names, the high profiles, the comprehensively PR’ed, the names off the telly. These are the easy options, the ones everyone will pile into, sometimes fun, frequently soulless. Then there’s the online equivalent of curtain-twitching: for me, the most interesting finds come from a seemingly random collection of mentions, careful whispers and connections — the sort of joined-up lightbulb moments that so blissfully trounced nasty Sigourney Weaver in the 1980s classic Working Girl.

And sometimes,…

Want to read more?

Subscribe now and get unlimited digital access on web and our smartphone and tablet apps, free for your first month.