tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-90812069740058451042015-03-02T21:54:27.169-08:00An Affordable WardrobeGiuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.comBlogger946125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-26140305352667313112015-01-27T18:26:00.002-08:002015-01-27T18:27:05.089-08:00Cosmetic SurgeryAs some of you may be aware, we in Boston are currently in the midst of some full blast Winter worthy of the Frozen North. I decided to spend a portion of the snowbound day (the part not spent consuming brandy, Guinness, and beef stew) performing a bit of cosmetic surgery on an old coat.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MlOIjXMZ3qg/VMhAO993ApI/AAAAAAAACCI/QR9V_bfFBxU/s1600/IMG_2119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MlOIjXMZ3qg/VMhAO993ApI/AAAAAAAACCI/QR9V_bfFBxU/s1600/IMG_2119.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've had this old Brooks Brothers duffle coat for a few years now. Originally <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2010/12/versatility-and-value-duffel-coat.html">picked up at a thrift shop (of course) for $12.99</a>, it quickly became a favorite. I wear it a lot with jeans and sweaters, and over preppier jacket and tie combos involving tweeds, blazers, button down oxfords, cords, et cetera. The blanket lining keeps me warm, and the brownish shade of tan works well with anything. The only thing I never liked about it was the leather thong toggles and silly plastic "teeth", but I could live with it. But a real duffle coat ought to have rope and wood toggles.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X6vzFjcTHpk/VMhD4uHZWtI/AAAAAAAACCU/6yxjUXvbN2Q/s1600/IMG_2116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X6vzFjcTHpk/VMhD4uHZWtI/AAAAAAAACCU/6yxjUXvbN2Q/s1600/IMG_2116.JPG" height="308" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Fortunately, replacement sets can be ordered from Gloverall, the English manufacturer of these coats, for less than $10. I ordered a set over a month ago, and it arrived in short order. In the package are eight pieces of jute rope and four wooden toggles. &nbsp;I had hesitated about bringing the coat to the tailor to have the new toggles put on, mostly because I didn't want to be without the coat for a week or two in the middle of Winter. Then today we were snowed in, so I decided to have a go at it myself.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjrrNxd3510/VMhFGba0fyI/AAAAAAAACCc/SQH07tY_yO4/s1600/IMG_2120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gjrrNxd3510/VMhFGba0fyI/AAAAAAAACCc/SQH07tY_yO4/s1600/IMG_2120.JPG" height="320" width="233" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fist thing to do is basically assemble the toggles. Each wood toggle is wrapped in jute rope which I then sewed tightly in place. The remaining four pieces of jute were sewn into loops. When doing this step, make sure to leave the loops wide enough to easily accommodate the wood toggles when fastening them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkHjfd8EN5c/VMhGI8rXoqI/AAAAAAAACCk/Amd30BMm0go/s1600/IMG_2121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkHjfd8EN5c/VMhGI8rXoqI/AAAAAAAACCk/Amd30BMm0go/s1600/IMG_2121.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next, after carefully removing the old leather thongs with a seam ripper, I sewed on set on partially to insure that I had the placement correct. In order to keep things neat, I made sure to stitch through the ghost of the stitch marks left by the original thongs. Then I tacked down the other end and trimmed off the excess jute. Repeat with the rest of the toggles.I set the project aside a few times to do other things, but all told the entire process took little more than an hour.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ORXcSAPhtIE/VMhG4h5srfI/AAAAAAAACCs/aC_vOT2aYFo/s1600/IMG_2134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ORXcSAPhtIE/VMhG4h5srfI/AAAAAAAACCs/aC_vOT2aYFo/s1600/IMG_2134.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end, I find the coat to be vastly improved. It's a small detail, but an important one. No doubt I've gotten my $12.99 worth out of this coat in the last four years, and with these new toggles it will last for many more to come. Sometimes the best new coat is your favorite old coat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-57820290507083196872015-01-25T20:13:00.000-08:002015-01-25T20:13:04.796-08:00All in the Timing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMqlGiJP3MY/VMW7bZ5QDRI/AAAAAAAACAo/fcp3R9JSEFg/s1600/IMG_2113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMqlGiJP3MY/VMW7bZ5QDRI/AAAAAAAACAo/fcp3R9JSEFg/s1600/IMG_2113.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the last few years, I have been happy to attend a Robbie Burns Supper at a club in Boston at the invitation of a good friend. I've worn a suit of <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2012/01/belated-robbie-burns-day.html">Black Watch</a>, and<a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/01/auld-lang-syne.html"> tuxedo with a Royal Stewart blazer </a>swapped in for the standard diner jacket. This year's supper was held last Friday, but I wasn't sure if I would attend. Then only last Wednesday, I found the above jacket, at a thrift shop of course, for a mere $7.99.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LSUCa8sIFKY/VMW8RD96hAI/AAAAAAAACAw/Enp72r3aZek/s1600/IMG_2114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LSUCa8sIFKY/VMW8RD96hAI/AAAAAAAACAw/Enp72r3aZek/s1600/IMG_2114.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A dinner jacket in Dress Gordon, with broad silk faced shawl collar and silk edged pockets, likely 1940s vintage, in excellent shape, and exactly my size.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_Xtl0dIaJk/VMW9EQEtgOI/AAAAAAAACA8/4mWXUcUPMOQ/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(8).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_Xtl0dIaJk/VMW9EQEtgOI/AAAAAAAACA8/4mWXUcUPMOQ/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(8).jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rendered in old Viyella. Honestly, a tartan dinner jacket is one thing, but a Viyella dinner jacket?!?! Unheard of. Just in time I guess.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end, I didn't go to Burns Supper this year after all, opting instead to end a long day of hard work and ring in the weekend with a pizza dinner with the wife and kids. But Scots Wha Hae and all that nonetheless.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>p.s. I have some great new listings on ebay, ending next Sunday, 1 Feb. <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/aawtimore/m.html?_nkw=&amp;_armrs=1&amp;_ipg=&amp;_from=">Check it out.</a></i></div>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-53442691239604919252015-01-12T20:52:00.001-08:002015-01-12T20:52:46.727-08:00Repair or Replace?Regular readers of this blog know that the answer I would give to the question posed in the title of this post is emphatically to repair...most of the time.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QhgIVmFrzak/VLSd_3gU75I/AAAAAAAAB_U/gAKtEdjBDrM/s1600/IMG_0249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QhgIVmFrzak/VLSd_3gU75I/AAAAAAAAB_U/gAKtEdjBDrM/s1600/IMG_0249.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's fair to say that tassel loafers are my favorite type of shoe. I suppose that's why I've been able to justify owning five pair that vary only slightly from one another. About six months ago, an old favorite pair suffered irreparable damage to the leather upper. I wore those shoes with cords and sweaters, flannels and tweeds, and in violation of barely existent sartorial rules, even suits. I was happy to have scored an apt replacement in the form of the above pair of Allen Edmonds in the "Saratoga" model, via eBay for $26.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But these weren't an such an apt replacement. There were too many differences.The vamp on these is much higher, and the toe is a little pointier than I like. Still, I could overlook those things.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rH8xjGhhgnY/VLSfpbF-fyI/AAAAAAAAB_g/RHT2Q_Lft5Q/s1600/IMG_0251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rH8xjGhhgnY/VLSfpbF-fyI/AAAAAAAAB_g/RHT2Q_Lft5Q/s1600/IMG_0251.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What I had trouble overlooking was the tassels. On my old pair, the lace was actually tied in a knot, but on this pair, the tassels were just attached separately. A small detail, but a detail nonetheless. It's kind of like getting cheap boat shoes where the lace doesn't really go around the whole shoe. Add to that the fact that the previous owner had applied (badly) way too many layers of wax polish. Probably read too many #menswear blogs. Consequently, they get much less use than their predecessors.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FleTpPoE86k/VLSgl5Y-NII/AAAAAAAAB_o/wKnKnpSZ94s/s1600/IMG_0250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FleTpPoE86k/VLSgl5Y-NII/AAAAAAAAB_o/wKnKnpSZ94s/s1600/IMG_0250.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So when they got a little worn in the heel and needed new soles, I stalled. I considered bringing them to Allen Edmonds for re-crafting. I've seen re-crafted Allen Edmonds shoes firsthand, and I know that the service is worth the $100 or so dollars it costs. They would fix the soles and strip off all those excessive layers of wax polish, but those damn "fake" tassels would still be there.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AVJTqG5UfUk/VLShaTAl_FI/AAAAAAAAB_w/_nOmPzGYr6s/s1600/IMG_0252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AVJTqG5UfUk/VLShaTAl_FI/AAAAAAAAB_w/_nOmPzGYr6s/s1600/IMG_0252.JPG" height="320" width="255" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Then these came along, Italian made for Polo Ralph Lauren, in barely worn condition, for $60 via eBay. The vamp is lower, giving the shoe a more slipper like line, which I like. They have a closer shape to the beloved pair I tried to replace in the first place. The toe is rounder, which accommodates my wide, brick shaped foot better. And they cost about half of what the re-crafting process would cost.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guQT9_YIH2w/VLSiP7wl4tI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Tnu0fUMSatw/s1600/IMG_0253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guQT9_YIH2w/VLSiP7wl4tI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Tnu0fUMSatw/s1600/IMG_0253.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Best of all, the lace is tied, and braided to boot. A zesty little touch. I can already tell that these will get easily double the wear of the previous pair. Given that they saved me money, this is one case where replacement was a better choice than repair.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MWSs0ZS3qw4/VLSi0guEUGI/AAAAAAAACAE/C6p3vL-lsAg/s1600/IMG_0254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MWSs0ZS3qw4/VLSi0guEUGI/AAAAAAAACAE/C6p3vL-lsAg/s1600/IMG_0254.JPG" height="320" width="230" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Better to spend those re-crafting dollars on these <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2012/01/rules-of-thrifting-go-with-your-gut.html">Allen Edmonds shell cordovan "Mac Neil" longwings,</a> which also need soles and heels. These are not so easily replaced, at least not at the kind of prices I'm used to paying.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Repair and reuse may be the cornerstone concepts of thrift itself, but they are best tempered with a well timed and occasional replacement.</div>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-48582878180357332972015-01-06T20:32:00.000-08:002015-01-06T20:32:25.132-08:00Winter White (or, the Vintage Look, sans Vintage)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i-ZbOHghchs/VKyt_RlF0wI/AAAAAAAAB-c/rAKPa029tDw/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i-ZbOHghchs/VKyt_RlF0wI/AAAAAAAAB-c/rAKPa029tDw/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" height="400" width="258" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Allow me to apologize for the blatant cell phone photography. Not up to my usual standard, but until I get this blog up to something like full speed again, we'll have to take what we can get.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in October, I happened to stumble across a pair of cream colored heavy flannel trousers in a thrift shop, for less than $10. Nice as they were, I didn't really have any need for them. If we're being totally honest, in modern times the idea of having a "need" for something like cream flannel pants is downright ludicrous anyway. Still, not two weeks after finding them I was to attend an event at Ralph Lauren in Boston for the release of the more than a little preposterous coffee table book "<a href="http://www.rowingblazers.com/">Rowing Blazers</a>", and the invitation specified "regatta attire requested", whatever that means. So I now had an excuse. Score one for justification.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So with the event now behind me, what to do with the silly pants? Wear them, I guess, in January. And so unfolds my first foray into winter white.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AiWQCYbYiqU/VKyxjy0FG1I/AAAAAAAAB-o/MMK5TVxBK1o/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AiWQCYbYiqU/VKyxjy0FG1I/AAAAAAAAB-o/MMK5TVxBK1o/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(1).jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Up top, things are somewhat quiet. A <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/03/all-in-details.html">heavy cashmere navy blazer</a> (trade), stripes tie by Robert Talbott (trade), and contrast collar shirt by Kenneth Gordon ($5.49) would be classic if a bit unremarkable with a charcoal flannels and dark brown tassel loafers. But instead, cream flannels, because I have them...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M78to--_UT8/VKyyNOMobEI/AAAAAAAAB-w/hgG1eAYW1FI/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M78to--_UT8/VKyyNOMobEI/AAAAAAAAB-w/hgG1eAYW1FI/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(2).jpg" height="320" width="284" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pants are hey-day era Polo, with a high waist, deep forward pleats, brace buttons, full cut legs and big cuffs.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HVIkC65UyCQ/VKyy97Hd1yI/AAAAAAAAB_A/-aWpWpBvMOY/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HVIkC65UyCQ/VKyy97Hd1yI/AAAAAAAAB_A/-aWpWpBvMOY/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B(3).jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you're going to wear pants like this in the modern world, you'll have to adopt something of a spirit of "go big or go home". To that end, <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2009/10/not-so-white-bucksfor-real.html">dirty white bucks</a>, with cream yellow socks,seemed the only logical footwear choice. Going "all the way", as the kids say, I topped the whole thing with a <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/05/horse-trading_5.html">Polo polo coat</a>, floppy tweed cap, and vintage inspired sunglasses. Sometimes it's fun to go to the hilt. Of course, it helps if you work in an environment where this sort of thing is somehow acceptable.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">True, I have argued against the dangers of treading the fine line between wearing vintage and dressing in costume, and this time it's likely that I crossed that line. Funny thing is, even though this outfit screams of the 1920s, and every piece of it is second hand, none of it is actually all that old. I guess that speaks to the real meaning of "classics" in menswear.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the end, the cream flannels may have been too much of a conversation piece, even for me. The last thing a gentleman wants is everybody talking about his pants, or something, right? On the other hand, go ahead, I dare you.</div>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-34602942055090347492015-01-02T20:05:00.000-08:002015-01-02T20:05:31.186-08:00Full Circle (Thrift Shopping Edition)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-ghzAhTfKU/VKdknVCw0uI/AAAAAAAAB90/Gy9CHTh_cz4/s1600/IMG_0136%2B(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-ghzAhTfKU/VKdknVCw0uI/AAAAAAAAB90/Gy9CHTh_cz4/s1600/IMG_0136%2B(1).JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>My newest old new tweed...</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To begin, let me say that I have missed this place. I miss sharing my thoughts on matters sartorial and other &nbsp;tangential subjects however loosely related, and I miss hearing from you, O Dear Readers. What I don't miss is feeling beholden to this blog, periphery commercial interests, or for that matter the Internet in general. So without further ado, let's get back into it, as the kids say, albeit on more casual terms.Back w<a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/11/until-further-notice.html">hen I announced my self imposed indefinite hiatus</a>, I figured I would come back one way or another, I just wasn't sure how, or when. Then, a couple of weeks ago, I made an eBay purchase that was such perfect AAW fodder that I couldn't resist.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pictured above is a massive piece of thorn proof tweed from the Andover Shop. I saw this gem listed on eBay for a mere $15. The listing had terrible photos, and stressed the "as-is' nature of the potential purchase. Given the fact that thrift shopping is always something of a gamble, and given the extremely low ante on this item, I decided there was little to lose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ba5iSBVTCY/VKdnN1CJACI/AAAAAAAAB-A/AzCYD06Zsf8/s1600/massive%2B1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ba5iSBVTCY/VKdnN1CJACI/AAAAAAAAB-A/AzCYD06Zsf8/s1600/massive%2B1.JPG" height="400" width="245" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in 2010, <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2010/02/anglophilia.html">I found a very similar jacket at a thrift shop</a> (of course). It was an exciting find, a real rare treat, and I wore it as often as anyone can wear a super thick English country tweed indoors in the United States in the modern times.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQLTwA2dej8/VKdnyTZGs1I/AAAAAAAAB-I/5UKA5RsFwVg/s1600/massive%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TQLTwA2dej8/VKdnyTZGs1I/AAAAAAAAB-I/5UKA5RsFwVg/s1600/massive%2B2.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But I decided to sell it. Maybe it was in a fit of closet cleansing...maybe it was because I felt (as usual) that I had more clothes than decency would allow one man...maybe it was in a moment of wanting "the money" more than the jacket...or maybe it was because my then new business selling fine vintage and second hand needed the credibility that something like this would give it. I don't really remember. What I do remember is the deep pang of instant regret I felt as I taped up the box and sent it out.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So four years later, I found what appeared to be the same jacket on eBay, for wicked cheap. When the box arrived, I vaguely recognized the name on the return address. Not only was this the same jacket, it was actually the very same one I had sold before. &nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Thornproof green tweed jacket with bold orange check, via the Andover Shop, via the Salvation Army, via <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.bigcartel.com./">An Affordable Wardrobe</a>, via eBay. The circle is complete.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-13330891654522108542014-11-15T09:44:00.002-08:002014-11-15T09:44:50.766-08:00"I Will Do It The Old Way..."<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vv-kxvhx9Kw/VGeL5dPMvbI/AAAAAAAAB9I/jL-4gKYMAic/s1600/art%2Bapinian.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vv-kxvhx9Kw/VGeL5dPMvbI/AAAAAAAAB9I/jL-4gKYMAic/s1600/art%2Bapinian.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><b>Artsroun "Art" Apinian, 1952-2014</b></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>(photo: Jillian Fennimore)</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For as long as I can remember, I've been taking my shoes to Savas Shoe Repair to be revitalized by the expert hands of Artsroun Apinian. Sadly Mr. Arpinian passed away this week. I considered him a friend, and despite this blog being on hiatus just at the moment he deserves some space here.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Mr. Arpinian was an old world cobbler the likes of which rarely exists anymore. A true master of his craft, his work was nothing short of art. His shop was tiny and reeked of shoe polish, and every inch of the place was piled high with shoes and sheets of leather. I never got rid of a pair of shoes without consulting him first.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">He really loved his work, and the better the shoes were to begin with, the more involved he would get. A long winded talker, he loved to explain to you in great detail exactly what made the shoes good, and exactly how he intended to repair them. "These shoes need new heels. I will do it the old way...with nails." And he did, every time. But it was more than that. After talk of the shoes was finished a friendly and often long conversation about just about everything else always ensued. A trip to his shop just to pick up a finished pair could easily last a half an &nbsp;hour.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The shop is still open, and his son has taken over. It;s heartening to see the place still open, since a good cobbler is a precious commodity these days. I haven't brought anything for repair yet, but if he learned from his father then that's a point in his favor.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rest well, Mr. Arpinian. My shoes and I will &nbsp;miss you.</div><br />Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-24966394172306206592014-11-07T07:40:00.000-08:002014-11-07T07:40:36.345-08:00Until Further Notice....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Udd1DotNeA/VFziJl3N9mI/AAAAAAAAB8s/MAZI6MY6Mj8/s1600/stand%2Bby.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Udd1DotNeA/VFziJl3N9mI/AAAAAAAAB8s/MAZI6MY6Mj8/s1600/stand%2Bby.jpg" height="256" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">By now you've noticed that posting around here has ground nearly to a halt. Some of you have even been kind enough to email and make sure all was well on my end. It is, thanks. Allow me to give a brief explanation of what to expect from the AAW you know and love in the near future.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've been writing this blog for just over six years now, since <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2008/09/no-money-no-problem.html">September of 2008</a>, and it's been great fun for the most part.When I started, I felt that the then burgeoning #menswear blogosphere phenomenon needed a cheapskate's voice, and I voluntarily stepped into to fill that role, having honed my cheapskate skills over a lifetime. What I didn't know then was how much I enjoyed sharing my thoughts in writing. I turns out I do, a lot. I spent many years previous performing in bands and had to give that up when my children came along. I guess I didn't know how much I enjoyed having an audience either.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Writing this blog has brought many surprises into my life. I launched a business based on my yammerings here. Every now and then, somebody sent me some expensive thing for free, which was also nice. But best of all, I've met more than a few people who will be lifelong friends through this shallow little pursuit. Who knew?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In any case, after six years I find myself running out of things to say here. Add to that the fact the since August <a href="http://www.ehow.com/ehow-style/blog/byauthor/giuseppetimore/">ehow.com</a> has actually been paying me (imagine it) once a week to write for them. All this has been making it increasingly difficult to regularly deliver what you've come to expect here, and so rather than churn out pointless posts just to keep the page fresh, I think it's high time to take a rest and collect my thoughts. I'll still be active over at <a href="http://bestofaaw.tumblr.com/">tumblr</a> if you really need a Giuseppe Timore fix.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I enjoy blogging and hope to get back into soon, with a new approach and some fresh ideas. Until then, please stand by.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>p.s. an excellent new employment opportunity looms on the horizon, and as such I will sadly have to shutter the AAW brick and mortar "secret store" in the coming weeks, moving business back to online only. As such, <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.bigcartel.com./">everything in the store, both physical and online, is 25% off until further notice, </a>Use discount code THANKYOU25 at checkout.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-41313843130540867632014-10-24T10:44:00.000-07:002014-10-24T10:44:17.117-07:00Darts or No Darts (addendum)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GYjGAxhsJqs/VEqNHRuxQSI/AAAAAAAAB8I/66TEOsHbJ5I/s1600/IMG_1622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GYjGAxhsJqs/VEqNHRuxQSI/AAAAAAAAB8I/66TEOsHbJ5I/s1600/IMG_1622.JPG" height="320" width="226" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>3/2 undarted front, three button cuffs</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6iDfWZrShkY/VEqNIHtqQXI/AAAAAAAAB8A/wh6DYEEQZ4M/s1600/IMG_1629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6iDfWZrShkY/VEqNIHtqQXI/AAAAAAAAB8A/wh6DYEEQZ4M/s1600/IMG_1629.JPG" height="320" width="218" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>2 button darted front, three button cuffs</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W2NCScv_oLQ/VEqNH1jr1YI/AAAAAAAAB78/eyA744r11nI/s1600/IMG_1637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W2NCScv_oLQ/VEqNH1jr1YI/AAAAAAAAB78/eyA744r11nI/s1600/IMG_1637.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Two button undarted front, two button cuffs</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In photographing some new items for my online shop, I came across these three navy blazers. All three are Brooks Brothers, and all three have natural shoulders. The button stance on each is different, and one has darts while the other two do not. No one of them is any more "classic" or "correct" than the others, and each would be perfectly at home with the usual suspects: button down oxfords, khakis, penny loafers, striped ties, charcoal flannels. The "right" one would be the one that looked best and most flattering on the wearer. Let these serve as a perfectly timed real life illustration of the points made in my <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/10/reader-questions-darts-or-no-darts.html">last post</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>p.s. lots of new items arriving in <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.bigcartel.com./">the Shop</a> over the next few days. Keep an eye.</i></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-76874182335124980802014-10-17T10:04:00.000-07:002014-10-17T10:04:29.780-07:00Reader Questions : Darts or No Darts?<span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_gVHWzaR1cM/VDlzUoAaFcI/AAAAAAAAB6c/LkUBSbN6N8g/s1600/two%2Bsketch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_gVHWzaR1cM/VDlzUoAaFcI/AAAAAAAAB6c/LkUBSbN6N8g/s1600/two%2Bsketch.JPG" height="264" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>(from "Clothes and the Man", by Alan Flusser)</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Reader Ryan writes:</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Curious, do you have an opinion about darted vs. non-darted jackets? &nbsp;And for that matter,..how about sack suits vs. updated American cut suits?</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Simple as this question may seem it's actually quite a good one because it cuts right to the meat of the detail obsessed world of #menswear, and let's us talk about which details really matter, and why.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As anyone who reads this blog can easily guess, my own sense of style leans heavily toward East Coast American traditional clothing. However, I also have a deep appreciation for British tailoring. As a result, I tend to shoot for what I call an "Anglo-American" approach to dressing, combining elements of each school of thought. I appreciate Italian tailoring as well, but despite being Italian myself, tend to shy away from it, as it doesn't really suit my figure or lifestyle.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For those who may not know, a dart is a small partial seam that runs up the front panels of a jacket from the pocket to the chest, giving the coat a bit of shaping in the sides. A "sack jacket" doesn't have darts, and therefore has a boxier shape, For generations this one of the distinguishing features of American dress, the other being a "natural shoulder" with minimal padding. In my own wardrobe, there are examples of both. I'm pretty ambivalent about whether a jacket has darts, instead considering the overall shape and cut of the garment. Personally, I look for a natural shoulder, with soft suppression at the waist, and an easy but correct fit. Whether this was achieved with darts or with shaping at the side seams doesn't much matter to me. I feel the same way about pleats vs. flat front pants. I want my trousers to fit comfortably without being baggy. These days I tend to prefer forward pleats, despite the fact that are considered "incorrect" in an East Coast traditional wardrobe, again because they suit my figure and lifestyle better. The fact that they are a little different, irreverent even, is only a plus.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The clothes you wear should make you look good. The best way to achieve this is to choose cuts and styles that compliment you. These days it's easy to read the internet and fill your head with a long list of so-called inviolable rules, but following those rules by rote to the letter won't necessarily help you dress well. Know what they are, why they exist, and then adapt them to yourself, using what a friend once called a "broad stroke traditionalism". It can make the difference between looking like you're going as "Take Ivy" for Halloween and being stylish and well dressed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-16024478227023119572014-10-04T08:43:00.001-07:002014-10-04T08:43:33.021-07:00Follow Up: The Knot Standard Jacket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_anS9Lwp400/VDAS4ox2-nI/AAAAAAAAB4s/3qxIMMQ3v7E/s1600/knot.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_anS9Lwp400/VDAS4ox2-nI/AAAAAAAAB4s/3qxIMMQ3v7E/s1600/knot.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I am more than a bit overdue with this post, but here is the follow up of the revisions to my jacket from Knot Standard. To review, Knot Standard is yet another of the growing number of companies offering "online custom". Having had less than good experiences in this realm before, I decided to give them a chance and took them up on <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/08/free-stuff-knot-standard-part-1.html">their offer of a free jacket back in July</a>.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I was impressed with the company then. The communication was great, the website easily navigated, and the jacket was of quality cloth and construction and arrived fairly quickly. The trouble was that the shoulders were cut too narrow and the length of the coat was a little long. After a very cordial correspondence with them on the matter, they remade my jacket and the new one arrived about a month later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I must say I am more than impressed. The new jacket has been adjusted perfectly, and I look forward to wearing it next Summer. Besides getting a quality garment at was is effectively a reasonable price ($395) the level of service was something that you don't see much anymore. That's worth as much as the jacket to me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I may &nbsp;not have paid for it, but I'd have to say that Knot Standard is worth every penny. Their prices rival that of many ready to wear brands of lesser quality, and the service is great. If you're not one to scour the dirty thrift shops like me, but you're less than &nbsp;satisfied with what your money gets you at retail these days, give them a try.</div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-38002614239385970482014-09-29T20:26:00.001-07:002014-09-29T20:29:11.329-07:00Cutting The Losses (An Appeal)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cIF_tugFRaU/VCobAY12bWI/AAAAAAAAB4I/a_heC_5SJOo/s1600/flusser.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cIF_tugFRaU/VCobAY12bWI/AAAAAAAAB4I/a_heC_5SJOo/s1600/flusser.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in July, I managed to "score" the suit in the above photo from ebay. It's a custom made suit by Alan Flusser, circa mid-90s. I wrote about it shortly after receiving it, using it to illustrate my "<a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/08/rules-of-thirfting-law-of-averages.html">Law of Averages</a>" theory as it applies to thrift shopping. It's made of a heavy nailhead cloth, and it's been hanging at the back of the closet in the "on deck circle", awaiting it's trip to the tailor. Every time I take it out to bring it to be fitted, it winds up getting bumped for other pending alterations. The longer I wait, the more I contemplate whether it might not be time to cut my losses on this one.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A three piece double breasted suit, seldom seen since the 1930s, is certainly not an easy garment to come by. Simply having one is something of a second hand/cheapskate gold medal. But when will I wear it? Lord knows I don't really need it. Hell, I don't really need any of this stuff. And the cost of alterations? OK, that's it, my mind is made up....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P3fa3KGbCBU/VCodvMQzySI/AAAAAAAAB4U/67HPN5qT9Og/s1600/hayes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P3fa3KGbCBU/VCodvMQzySI/AAAAAAAAB4U/67HPN5qT9Og/s1600/hayes.jpg" height="320" width="224" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And then Tin Tin (remember him?) posts this photo, from a mid-90s era Esquire article written by none other than Alan Flusser himself. And I see such a suit in action, and I know now that I must have it...but wait a minute, no, I don't. Perhaps you see my dilemma. Or perhaps you are a more well adjusted, level headed person who is only reading this bog and others like it to marvel at the amount of time and thought that some fellows put into something so ultimately superficial and inconsequential. In any case, I appeal to you for help.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On September 19, 2008, the fellow formerly known as "Longwing" (remember him?) commented in response to this blog's <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2008/09/no-money-no-problem.html">very first post</a>:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, serif; line-height: 20.796875px;"><i>"Thrifters have too much shit. You get used to not getting exactly what you want so you tend to buy everything that even comes close."</i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.796875px;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; line-height: 20.796875px;">I refuted him then, even though I couldn't help but admit that he indeed had a very valid point. It's a mild form of hoarding sickness that I have fought hard to keep in check all my life. I feel that I do fairly well, and no doubt operating a second hand clothing business does give me a convenient outlet for unwanted or no longer needed garments. But I ask you, is this not just the sort of situation old Longwing was talking about? Do I bite the bullet and pour more cash into making this suit fit? Or do I recoup my investment and get this thing into the hands of someone an inch or so taller than me? After all, I have a pair of cream colored flannel trousers already at the tailor's awaiting pick up, and a pair of cavalry twills to be dropped off, to say nothing of the dry cleaning.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.796875px;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; line-height: 20.796875px;">Torture and anguish, thy name is a less than perfect ebay score. Thoughts and opinions greatly appreciated.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.796875px;"><br /></span></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-66068829502840802422014-09-27T08:17:00.003-07:002014-09-27T08:17:36.850-07:00Dress for The Season...and the Weather<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XqQjZ6kxtV0/VCbSj1D63TI/AAAAAAAAB30/wLVfBQdfAxc/s1600/wool%2Bknit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XqQjZ6kxtV0/VCbSj1D63TI/AAAAAAAAB30/wLVfBQdfAxc/s1600/wool%2Bknit.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So it's almost October, and I'm itchy to get into my tweeds and corduroys. But as I write this, it's nearing 80 degrees in Boston. The tweeds will have to wait, but the madras and linen would be way out of place.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I recently picked up the jacket above, a recent Brooks Brothers piece. It's made of a blend of wool, linen &nbsp;and silk, and I find it's handy thing to have on a day like this. The color and pattern aren't too summery, but the jacket still wears cool on a warm day. &nbsp;When I packed the Summer clothes up, I left this one in rotation, along with a lightweight navy blazer in wool hopsack, and a couple of lighter weight worsted suits in dark colors. It's helpful to have clothes that bridge the gap. In the photo above, I combined the jacket with a wool knit tie, perhaps a bit unconventional, but a nod to the season, despite the warm weather. Below, a pair of charcoal worsted trousers, rather than the lightweight tan cotton I might usually put with this jacket, keep things more Fall as well.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I don't want to walk around sweating bullets in a tweed jacket and flannel slacks pretending I'm not uncomfortable any more than I want to be wearing shorts right now. Nothing is less stylish than being uncomfortable in your clothes, no matter how nice they may be. Dress for the season, but dress for the weather too.</div><br />Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-59546707762917143412014-09-25T10:50:00.000-07:002014-09-25T10:50:33.666-07:00Buona Fortuna, Signor Sessa<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffXCJ_K2bZ0/VCNntoMhr4I/AAAAAAAAB20/CSCRO4M95Gc/s1600/neon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ffXCJ_K2bZ0/VCNntoMhr4I/AAAAAAAAB20/CSCRO4M95Gc/s1600/neon.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've lived in the same house practically all my life. Save for a brief period of "freedom" in my twenties, I live in the house my parents brought me to as a newborn baby. My mother has lived in this house for fifty years, and my children are the fourth generation of my family to be here. A short walk from the house is Sessa's Cold Cuts and Italian Specialties. Mr. Sessa has run this neighborhood Italian deli for 35 years, effectively all my life. He just sold the place to enjoy his well earned retirement.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Giancarlo (Johnny) Sessa is something of a third grandfather to me. He jokes about how despite the fact that many of his customers are much older than me, I am his oldest customer. On the weekend he opened his shop in 1979, my Nonna took me there. I was a little older than two and my brother had yet to be born. I still shop there. Notoriously surly in the true Italian (my Nonna would further specify "Napolitana") way, he always greeted me with a kindly "Come stai, Giuseppe?". We've been friends all my life.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8YWCFpvEG44/VCNp08tHdjI/AAAAAAAAB3A/_87JTc4eMbw/s1600/cold%2Bcuts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8YWCFpvEG44/VCNp08tHdjI/AAAAAAAAB3A/_87JTc4eMbw/s1600/cold%2Bcuts.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Sessa's shop was one of my first experiences of the kind of "real thing" the internet generation can mostly only imagine. The freshest Italian cold cuts outside Italy, sliced to paper thin perfection; dried fishes and bundles of garlic hanging from the ceiling; buckets full of olives by the front door (oil cured black olives a personal favorite). At Easter, pizza chiena (pronounced in Boston "pizza gain-a") satcked high on the counter; at Christmas, pannetone of every size...for days. Vacuum sealed bricks of all the rare types of Lavazza; homemade dry cured sausages from some old lady in Malden, totally illegal; Kinder Eggs, also illegal; and always friendly Italian banter.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As a child, I remember being there every weekend, the smells, and the sounds of spoken Italian. Back then, the neighborhood was mostly Italian, and the immigrant generation, "old country" folks like my grandparents, were everywhere. In those days, nobody spoke English in Sessa's shop. It was a lively place. We would go there to buy cold cuts on Saturday. With every order, I would be given a fresh slice to taste. I would leave having eaten a sandwich worth of meat, only to go home and make a sandwich.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZRCCKykaII/VCNsmySOzOI/AAAAAAAAB3M/lFe_hnlP1go/s1600/sessa%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZRCCKykaII/VCNsmySOzOI/AAAAAAAAB3M/lFe_hnlP1go/s1600/sessa%2B1.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For the last few years, Mr. Sessa had talked about retirement. He had children, but none interested in taking the place on after him. That's him sweeping the floor, his daughter behind the counter. I recently heard he had found a buyer for the place. Today, I dropped by to thank him. He said "for what?".&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I told him that despite the fact that I am a second generation American, I have always considered myself to be "Italian". Obviously, growing up with my grandparents in a largely immigrant neighborhood had a lot to do with that. I didn't realize until I heard he was leaving that he and his store had a lot to do with it too. I didn't know how much his store and the culture it represents meant to me until I heard he was moving on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The staff there wears aprons in large green, white, and red stripes of the Italian flag. Some twenty years ago, he gave one to my father, and I promptly stole it when my own interest in cooking began to bud. I told him how only last week I finally had to part with it. It was too stained and torn too keep anymore. I said that if I knew he was leaving I would have kept it. He went back to the kitchen and came out with a new one, saying "Don't say I never gave you nothing". I couldn't be happier. I can't wait to stain this one with olive oil and tomato sauce.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zIuIhvc3_Pg/VCRUDqEVHwI/AAAAAAAAB3k/FUkemIPL6Rw/s1600/photo%2B(26).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zIuIhvc3_Pg/VCRUDqEVHwI/AAAAAAAAB3k/FUkemIPL6Rw/s1600/photo%2B(26).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fellow who bought the place is an Italian, too. He plans to make some changes, including the name, but keep the old Italian deli going strong in the neighborhood. I'm sure it will be nice, especially for those of us who would rather not buy our proscuitto at the supermarket, but it won't be Sessa's.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Buona fortuna, Signor Sessa. Enjoy the rest, you've earned it.</div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-21264993387534432882014-09-18T12:17:00.001-07:002014-09-18T12:21:15.594-07:00Get Ready<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8QD9RyujqZU/VBssu6PR_tI/AAAAAAAAB00/h6SVFp0yIJs/s1600/tweeds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8QD9RyujqZU/VBssu6PR_tI/AAAAAAAAB00/h6SVFp0yIJs/s1600/tweeds.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I heard that the Farmer's Almanac has predicted an unusually cold winter this year. Not that I neccesarily put much stock in the Farmer's Almanac, butI say bring it on. I've been preparing, and I'm ready. Are you?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Currently in the closet are some old friends and some recent off season acquisitions. Left to right: Vintage Southwick heavy wool twill in hunter green; <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/03/preppies-hippies-and-bikers.html">vintage wool tartan jacket</a> (great for <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/01/auld-lang-syne.html">Bobby Burns parties</a>); Paul Stuart brown glen check with gold and burgundy overcheck; <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/03/another-mans-clothes.html">old custom cashmere</a> large scale glen check with blue overcheck; <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-curse-of-igent.html">Andover Shop Russell plaid</a> heavy tweed; Brooks Brothers gun club check with open patch pockets; Andover Shop moss green tweed with orange, red, blue, and lavender check; Andover Shop brown tweed with burgundy overcheck; Norman Hilton brown color fleck herringbone; <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/06/rules-of-thrifting-1-2-and-3.html">three piece cavalry twill sui</a>t. All acquired through thrift shops, ebay, or trade.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Not bad for a broke cheapskate. Persistence pays off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>p.s. Looks like we have temps pushing 80 on the way this weekend. Good thing I kept the khakis and hopsack blazer in rotation.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-29065131839956308682014-09-08T20:19:00.000-07:002014-09-08T20:19:12.634-07:00Sunday Best<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vui63lq0zU4/VA5jv_SMDrI/AAAAAAAABzw/oEChKFmGMRI/s1600/IMG_1197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vui63lq0zU4/VA5jv_SMDrI/AAAAAAAABzw/oEChKFmGMRI/s1600/IMG_1197.JPG" height="320" width="236" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Recently good friend <a href="http://10engines.blogspot.com/">James of 10 Engines</a> gave me this suit, straight out of his own closet, to do with what I could. It's the very definition of a stalwart classic, a charcoal grey single breasted suit in a three season worsted wool. It's been said that a man's suit is like armor, and this one bears that point out.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G7QHMg3fdSY/VA5k2JY3X1I/AAAAAAAABz4/5Rn-Dj6NHj8/s1600/IMG_1199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G7QHMg3fdSY/VA5k2JY3X1I/AAAAAAAABz4/5Rn-Dj6NHj8/s1600/IMG_1199.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At first glance, it's a trad/ivy/preppy thrift shop/ebay score dream: a vintage 3/2 sack suit from the Brooks Brothers University Shop, likely late 1950s vintage. It's the kind of thing the trad/ivy fanatics dream of at night. But I won't be selling it. It's well worn, and in it's wear and tear lies a story and a soul.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gfxcFWWyO2o/VA5lsunxpQI/AAAAAAAAB0A/BH9DEFPffR8/s1600/IMG_1200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gfxcFWWyO2o/VA5lsunxpQI/AAAAAAAAB0A/BH9DEFPffR8/s1600/IMG_1200.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The tips of the cuffs are worn through, and a few of the buttons are broken...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HoILRBz4y1Q/VA5l8AgFinI/AAAAAAAAB0I/nWXpKYxaI80/s1600/IMG_1201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HoILRBz4y1Q/VA5l8AgFinI/AAAAAAAAB0I/nWXpKYxaI80/s1600/IMG_1201.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The trouser hems are frayed beyond repair, but check that old style big cuff on a narrow leg opening...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf14ycx8ikk/VA5mS1_suPI/AAAAAAAAB0Q/bb4T1JcMLkU/s1600/IMG_1203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf14ycx8ikk/VA5mS1_suPI/AAAAAAAAB0Q/bb4T1JcMLkU/s1600/IMG_1203.JPG" height="244" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The edges of the trouser pockets have been beaten so hard in sixty or more years of active service that someone saw fit to have them reinforced with a grosgrain strip...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HpsMU5ykYQ/VA5moRYWvLI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/MLZZiijjiUw/s1600/IMG_1208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4HpsMU5ykYQ/VA5moRYWvLI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/MLZZiijjiUw/s1600/IMG_1208.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And a crotch worn straight through was at some time seen merely as a call for some old time thrifty repair rather than a ticket to the trash pile.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While this suits condition may render it useless to almost anyone, it has value in it's own way. Indeed, it's value lies in the very defects and repairs that make it an unsalable vintage piece. This suit speaks to a reality in the past that vintage fetishism tends to ignore, and it hints at a story that's worth bearing in mind, especially if you spend any amount of time hunting for and reusing old things.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the strange world that is the online #menswear community, we tend to think of the Brooks Brothers of bygone days as something of a holy cathedral. It is viewed, along with a small handful of other old purveyors, as something of the supplier or royal armor to the knights of the #ocbd. And indeed, in most ways, it was. But there is another side to that story, and this suit is a strong piece of evidence.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">What follows is all pure conjecture on my part, but I beg you hear me out. I think that the man who owned this suit didn't have a lot of good clothes, or a lot of money, but he did have values. He probably scrimped and saved in the late fifties to buy this suit, knowing that quality was worth the time and effort it took to earn it. He likely purchased this simple charcoal grey suit on virtue of it's versatility, usefulness, and probable longevity. It was probably his Sunday Best, and he probably wore it to every important occasion of his life for decades. He might have been eighteen when he bought it; he danced in it with his sweetheart at the Spring semi-formal; he wore it to his high school graduation; every holiday, every Sunday at church. He put it on for his grandmother's birthday that time they surprised her with a trip to the city for dinner in a fancy restaurant; he put it on to pick his wife up from the hospital after his son was born; he wore it to both of his parents funerals.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">He wasn't a business man, definitely not a man who wore a suit all the time. Had he been that type, we wouldn't see either the wear or repair that we see on this suit. He appreciated the value in it since it's original purchase, and had it repaired as best he could every time it was needed by a little town tailor who was resourceful in his work. Despite the suit becoming increasingly ragged, he kept it clean and pressed, and every time he had occasion to wear it, that same sweetheart he danced with in the Spring semi-formal told him how handsome he looked in it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Maybe that's all a bit maudlin, but I hope you see my point. In the romantic past, when everyone wore suits, even poor guys had to have some Sunday Best. In a very strong sense, I'd bet the guy who owned this suit valued it far more than any guy with a lot of suits values his clothes. It was his armor, his good clothes, and though it may have been a bit ragged, it wasn't any less of a grey Brooks Brother suit. Old clothes sourced from a thrift store are great for being well made quality things had for a fraction of their worth. But they also have a story and a soul. For some that's a turn-off, but for an inveterate cheapskate like myself, it's where the beauty in this lies.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-62201141577025338312014-09-06T09:45:00.000-07:002014-09-06T09:45:41.488-07:00Size Matters<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDQx0GI5ZNI/VAskUXRcC6I/AAAAAAAABzg/ZoXgEUwPndg/s1600/Measuring-Tape460x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDQx0GI5ZNI/VAskUXRcC6I/AAAAAAAABzg/ZoXgEUwPndg/s1600/Measuring-Tape460x300.jpg" height="208" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As the author of this blog and a seller of second hand menswear, I am frequently asked questions regarding the measurement and sizing of old garments. In the age of the internet, more clothing than ever is bought and sold sight unseen via places like ebay and online shops like my own. In the interest of a "Reader Questions" style post, here's a guide and explanation of how sizing works and how to use measurements to successfully shop for old clothes.</div><br />Most modern clothes are sized on a tag. These measurements can be anything as vague as "alpha sizing" (S,M,L,XL) or as specific as tailored sizing (42 Reg., for example). While helpful, these sizes are best used as a guide rather than a rigid fact. In truth, there is fluidity in such sizes, and different manufacturers or brands often use the same numbers on clothes which are not physically the same size. Add to that the fact that many older and vintage clothes are either missing these tags or were never sized that way in the first place, and things can get pretty confusing. While it's helpful to know about what "size" you are, it is infinitely more helpful to know your measurements, or even just the measurements of an article of clothing that fits well. The numbers on a measuring tape are marked out in inches (or centimeters if you live anywhere but here), and there is no arguing with them.<br /><br /><b>Jackets</b><br />Most suit jackets and sport coats are sized by chest measurement and length. For example, I generally wear a 42 Regular. The number (42) refers to the circumference of the chest, in this case 42 inches, while "Regular" refers to the length of the jacket measured down the back. Generally speaking, there are five measurements to know on a tailored jacket. The chest can measured by laying a jacket flat and measuring from armpit to armpit, or "pit to pit" as you'll often read in online listing, then doubling. Bear in mind that is a differential to be considered, and few extra inches need to be left for freedom of movement. The jackets I have that I consider 42 chest measure between 22 and 23 inches across, or between 44-45 inches around. Shoulders are measured across the back from point to point. This can vary between makers and styles, but it can't be altered, so know what fits.A little variance is ok here. For example, I can wear anything from 18-19 inches in the shoulder. Length is usually listed as Short, Regular, and Long. While there is no hard rule about these lengths, I generally consider a "regular" to be about 31 inches from the bottom of the collar to the hem of the coat, short to be about 30, and long to be about 32. Again, the terms are subjective, but the numbers are not. Sleeve length is measured from shoulder to cuff, and sometimes a waist measurement will be given by measuring across the closed buttoning &nbsp;point. These can be helpful, but remember too that sleeve length and side seams are easily altered. A good seller will list how much cloth there is to accommodate these alterations, or at least be able to tell you should you ask.<br /><br /><b>Trousers</b><br />Trousers are easier, with the most important measurement of course being at the waist. This is measured much the same way as the chest of a jacket, across the waistband, doubled, with room to move. For example, what I would consider a 36 waist would actually measure about 37 inches. Length is measured from the crotch to the hem down the seam. This is easily alterable in most cases and a good seller will tell how much extra cloth there is to make adjustments. If you're looking for trim or fuller cut trousers, it's helpful to know the leg opening and thigh measurement. A leg opening between 9 and 10 inches is fairly classic, with 8 inches being trim. 13-14 inches at the thigh is classic, less would be considered trim cut. If you like a trimmer look, trousers can often be tapered in a bit, but you'll need a good tailor, not just the local dry cleaner. Remember that honesty with oneself is important. You may like to say you wear a 34 waist when you really need 36. Vanity is a funny thing. It should motivate you to wear clothes that look good rather than squeeze into uncomfortable clothing that's too tight.<br /><br />These things are not only helpful in the world of online shopping, but also in the physical realm. Take a measuring tape with you to the thrift store and ignore tagged sizing. If you see something you like, measure it and see how close it comes to the measurements taken from a well fitting garment you already have. With experience, you'll begin to see the relativity in tagged sizing. I personally own and wear trousers sized from 34 to 38 inches, and jackets ranging from 40 to 44 in tagged sizes, and yet they all fit. Know measurements, not your "sizes".<br /><br /><i>p.s. A Note on Blog Posts</i><br /><i><br /></i><i>You may have noticed that posting here has become less frequent, lately only happening once a week, usually on Saturday. As some of you may know, I have taken a writing job with the style blog at ehow.com. This job, paired with the running of both my online and brick and mortar shop, has made it difficult to keep posting here as frequently as I would like. Going forward, I will be working out a more regular posting schedule for the blog, likely twice a week. Until then keep checking in and bear with me. I truly appreciate your readership and will continue to offer the kind of content you've come to expect. Thank you.</i><br /><br />Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-60714050916132381372014-08-30T10:05:00.003-07:002014-08-30T10:05:26.223-07:00#Menswear 1970Lately I've been catching up on all the old movies I'm supposed to have seen but actually haven't. Last night &nbsp;it was<i> Five Easy Pieces.</i> An excellent movie to be sure, but since this is a clothing blog, I'm going to focus on vintage 1970 menswear style via Jack Nicholson's character Bobby Dupea. Amazingly, he manages to wear an excellent and stylish example of nearly every #menswear trend popular today. Times may change, but #menswear, or what was then called menswear, doesn't.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Dof631g_xk/VAHmi9pddeI/AAAAAAAAByI/Cod39YuQuOI/s1600/jack%2Bwork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Dof631g_xk/VAHmi9pddeI/AAAAAAAAByI/Cod39YuQuOI/s1600/jack%2Bwork.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We have the Well Curated Authentic Heritage Americana #workwear thing nailed down tight. Red Wing boots, selvage denim, American made heavy flannel shirts, it's all there. The only difference between 1970 and today is that this character works on a oil rig in California, as opposed to a tech office in a converted Bushwick warehouse loft with a Foosball table and a place to take a nap during business hours.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ua5f5Yql7E/VAHnlz-xe9I/AAAAAAAAByc/7O4uUmxfRMk/s1600/jack%2Bsuit%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ua5f5Yql7E/VAHnlz-xe9I/AAAAAAAAByc/7O4uUmxfRMk/s1600/jack%2Bsuit%2B2.jpg" height="170" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We have the #ivy #preppy thing to the hilt when he puts on a tweed suit with a natural shoulder, 3/2 roll, two button cuff, and flat front pants. His #ocbd has an epic collar roll and pairs perfectly with a knit tie. The only difference between 1970 and today is this character comes from old money, and as such learned how to dress this way from a source other than the internet.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zKncrQgalzg/VAHokl3pbzI/AAAAAAAAByg/J4JFg6cMqJw/s1600/jack%2Bcord.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zKncrQgalzg/VAHokl3pbzI/AAAAAAAAByg/J4JFg6cMqJw/s1600/jack%2Bcord.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">An excellent dose of New England casual is served up in the form of a turtleneck and brown corduroy jacket, again with natural shoulder, 3/2 roll, and two button cuff, worn with selvage denim. The only difference between 1970 and today is that his jeans appear to be washed when they get dirty.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2PcmjVMJ71Q/VAHp6eDkA-I/AAAAAAAAByo/Fhnh8Sw4D58/s1600/jack%2Bsatin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2PcmjVMJ71Q/VAHp6eDkA-I/AAAAAAAAByo/Fhnh8Sw4D58/s1600/jack%2Bsatin.jpg" height="175" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And bonus points for the maroon satin jacket with knit collar and cuffs, worn in the iconic "Chicken salad sandwich hold the chicken" scene. The only difference between 1970 and today is nobody called this jacket #streetwear.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DMmI6t0L9sg/VAHsI4D8TII/AAAAAAAABy0/Y9Ub7oeCrb0/s1600/carl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DMmI6t0L9sg/VAHsI4D8TII/AAAAAAAABy0/Y9Ub7oeCrb0/s1600/carl.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We even get a whiff of pretensious #menswear style in the form of Bobby's brother Carl. The only difference between 1970 and today is that apparently being an ascot wearing snoot got you a broken neck, rather than fame and accolades as a leading #igent.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Also, back then people only used words that were in the dictionary, and the "hashtag" was known as a "number sign".</div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script> Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-68756108390293377462014-08-23T08:53:00.000-07:002014-08-23T08:53:42.169-07:00The Virtues of Perseverance<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7wdpXeCYPzk/U_i1aCsjgeI/AAAAAAAABx0/ywqNH9E1fC4/s1600/photo%2B(24).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7wdpXeCYPzk/U_i1aCsjgeI/AAAAAAAABx0/ywqNH9E1fC4/s1600/photo%2B(24).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back in the 90s, my Dad had a subscription to GQ. This was in the end days of GQ being a publication for professional men interested in adult topics, rather than a pop rag full of twenty somethings in clothes that don't fit. I read it back then, and even though I may hate to admit being influenced by a magazine, I was. All those now famous Polo ads from the heyday were there, and the clothing photo spreads featured some pretty great stuff. Sure, the models were young, athletic, and handsome, but the clothes fit properly and it was obvious that the demographic was grown ups.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'd see an outfit like the one pictured above. The model would probably be photographed descending a flight on stone steps on the front of an old official looking building, briefcase in one hand while checking his watch or hailing a cab. Or maybe he'd be in the park buying a hot dog from a street vendor while an attractive young lady in a business suit admired him from behind a newspaper. The caption would read something like this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>Dashing and simple, you can't go wrong with a good grey suit and blue striped shirt. Suit by Polo Ralph Lauren, $1295; shirt by Brooks Brothers, $149; tie by Robert Talbott, $125; belt by Coach; shoes by W.S.Foster and Sons.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I lusted after those things then, and I did my best in my teenage way to fake it with bargains and thrift shop purchases. In retrospect I missed the mark by a mile, but I was a kid and still just learning. I stuck with it, kept what was good and discarded the rest, in terms of both clothing and knowledge. &nbsp;All these years later, I finally have the Polo suit, the Brooks Brothers shirt, and the Robert Talbott tie, albeit for a lot less money. I sometimes buy hot dogs from a street vendor, though I'm not sure how many attractive young ladies in business suits are admiring from behind a newspaper.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Perseverance is a virtue.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-62230178126121622292014-08-21T07:06:00.000-07:002014-08-21T07:06:27.525-07:00The Jams<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/jzb4FChD3BY" width="420"></iframe><br /><br />In Boston, we are fortunate enough to have excellent jazz programming on the radio every day from 5:00 am until 1:00 pm, thanks to Harvard's radio station <a href="http://whrb.org/">WHRB</a>. It may be hopelessly old fashioned, but that's still how I find out about a lot of the music I eventually come to love. I hear new things on the radio, write down the names and seek them out. Add to that my late-to-the-party discovery of discogs.com and we have a potentially dangerous situation. Most recently I discovered the album "<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puttin'_It_Together">Puttin' It Together</a></i>" by the Elvin Jones trio, currently on it's way to the house. "<i>Sweet Little Maia</i>" is from that album. Besides being a mega-jam, this performance serves a triumvirate of style lessons, hence making it loosely appropriate for a clothing blog.<br /><br />Elvin Jones, the groups leader and drummer, keeps things simple and classy in a plain tuxedo, not unlike what he often wore during his six year stint with the massively influential John Coltrane Quartet. The tie tucked under the shirt collar may be a dated, and the barrel cuffs on what appear to be a normal white shirt rather than a pleated formal one remind of that old style<a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2011/09/clean-and-simpleand-casual.html"> casual black tie</a> that we lost sight of in the last forty years. Despite how you might feel about these inconsequential transgressions, playing the drums as well as Elvin does kind of gives you a pass.<br /><br />Jimmy Garrison, also late of the John Coltrane Quartet, shows us that maybe, just maybe, there are situations in which a Nehru jacket and turtleneck can be not only acceptable, but downright cool. Those situations include being Jimmy Garrison and performing jaw dropping bass solos in 1968. Don' try it at home.<br /><br />Joe Farrell presents a style anomaly. His look is very high school chemistry teacher, and I can almost feel the thickness of his polyester through the screen. But he proves that just because you're a badly dressed white guy playing a soprano sax doesn't necessarily mean you're painfully lame. This of course flies in the face of Kenny G.'s entire musical career.<br /><br />Can't wait for this record to arrive. Once it does, I can almost guarantee that it will be in regular rotation on the turntable at the AAW Shop. Drop by some Saturday if you want to give it a listen.<br /><br /><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script> Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-37494863267620467932014-08-16T09:48:00.001-07:002014-08-16T09:48:12.044-07:00New Old Boston : A Visit to Bully Boy Distillers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JHHCl76iOrE/U-9_0BQI8QI/AAAAAAAABwM/ZulREl35tmQ/s1600/IMG_1126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JHHCl76iOrE/U-9_0BQI8QI/AAAAAAAABwM/ZulREl35tmQ/s1600/IMG_1126.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Bottles of Bully Boy "Boston Rum" being packaged at the distillery</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Remarkably, for all the years I have spent in the business of selling booze, I had never been to a brewery, winery, or distillery. Just the other day I decided to change that with a visit to Boston's own <a href="http://www.bullyboydistillers.com/bully-boy-home.html">Bully Boy Distillers</a>. Hidden away in a nondescript aluminum garage, across the street from the back side of an elementary school no less, I may never have even found the place if it weren't for the &nbsp;fact that the weather was warm and one of the doors was partially open, and I could see a stack of oak liquor barrels inside.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've been familiar with Bully Boy spirits these last few years they've been on the market, selling them in the store. Initially only white spirits were available, as the "brown goods" as we call them take some time to age. I knew they were small and local and the liquor was good, so I was happy to recommend them. A few years later when a dark "Boston Rum" and an aged "American Straight Whiskey" hit the scene, I was hooked, being more of a brown goods guy myself.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ0GTro57n0/U--Bpje0kQI/AAAAAAAABwY/qPy4SibHRl0/s1600/IMG_1128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ0GTro57n0/U--Bpje0kQI/AAAAAAAABwY/qPy4SibHRl0/s1600/IMG_1128.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To call them "small batch" almost doesn't describe it. This place is tiny. A two door garage, divided into two rooms. On the right, a tasting bar, office, bottling and packaging line, and the still itself fill one room.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTjRRgdtJE/U--CL8nFMbI/AAAAAAAABwg/PoWDW5TgZwU/s1600/IMG_1121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PDTjRRgdtJE/U--CL8nFMbI/AAAAAAAABwg/PoWDW5TgZwU/s1600/IMG_1121.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the other room, barrels of whiskey and rum line both walls, stacked to the ceiling. Large plastic fermenting tanks take up the center of the room, along with tanks of molasses and pallets of grain. In the foreground of this shot, a tank of molasses undergoes initial fermentation on its way to becoming rum, while another tank holds a fermenting "mash" of 45% corn, 45% rye, and 10% wheat that will become whiskey. It's a tight squeeze, but brothers Will and Dave Willis obviously run a clean, tight ship.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fKBVePDT0aw/U--C84YSU-I/AAAAAAAABws/Urnv-p1hGrM/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fKBVePDT0aw/U--C84YSU-I/AAAAAAAABws/Urnv-p1hGrM/s1600/IMG_1124.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It all gets distilled in tiny batches on a German made copper still. Running the still for an entire day, Will tells me, yields only a few gallons of raw liquor. That's something to think about when considering the price of a good bottle.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Bully Boy's story is a good one, and as I speak with co-owner Will Willis his passion not only for craft distilling, but also for history, and the city of Boston, is clear. Will tell's me that Bully Boy started with an interest to bring back Boston's long lost but storied distilling tradition. He and his brother Dave grew up on a farm in Massachusetts, where they discovered an old family vault containing a rare collection of old liquor bottles, all locked up there apparently as a secret stash during prohibition. The name "Bully Boy" was the name of a favorite horse of his Grandfather's, and references not only Teddy Roosevelt, but also the old Bully Boys of Boston, the hard working folks who did the dirty work for Boston blue blood "Brahmin" society. The brothers take their cues form these old bottles, and offer a set of spirits that have a fun nod to history and an inherent "Boston"-ness about them, while still remaining unique and somewhat modern. All of this is offered at a very fair price at retail, no easy feat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RSurudeM7TA/U--GIDmxGEI/AAAAAAAABw4/N5pbFk8fowg/s1600/IMG_1130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RSurudeM7TA/U--GIDmxGEI/AAAAAAAABw4/N5pbFk8fowg/s1600/IMG_1130.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Old bottles found in vault at the farm. "Cow Whiskey"?!? Bully Boy used these as inspiration for the design of their own labels.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The white spirits all retail for roughly $30 per bottle, and are clean, direct expressions of their ingredients and the brothers attention to quality. The vodka is clean and bright, despite having been distilled only once rather than the multiple times common these days, proof you can get it right on the first try. The white rum has a glycerin texture and just the right sweetness without being heavy, great with tonic and lime. The white whiskey is perhaps similar to the vodka, but has more of a biscuit bread note to it. I've actually had it in a margarita in place of tequila and it was quite good.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The brown spirits are a whiff more expensive, but still quite reasonable at around $35. Their American Whiskey qualifies as neither Bourbon nor Rye, being only 45% corn and 45% rye, shy of the 51% of either of those needed to bear the names. As such, it bears some of the better attributes of both: the sweetness of bourbon tempered with the spicy qualities of rye. It's got plenty of flavor, and a good bit of chew, yet it's light on it's feet and mellow at 84 proof. Great as a sipper, I also like it mixed with lemon juice and club soda, garnished with peach slices. &nbsp;"Boston Rum", the same initial distillate as the white rum, finishes it's aging in the charred whiskey barrels once the whiskey leaves them. It's dark amber in color, rich and chewy, and being made from molasses really hearkens back perhaps more than any of their other products to Boston's old liquor history. We are a port town, after all, and sailors love rum. Sip this one in a snifter or try it on the rocks with muddled lime and sugar.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You won't find Bully Boy far from Boston, at least not yet. If you're a local and you haven't tried it, get out there and do it. Any good bar in town stocks it by now. If you're visiting Boston, do yourself a favor and take some home. It makes a way better souvenir than a Red Sox t-shirt made in china that you can get anywhere. Bully Boy distillers is a real taste of the New Old Boston.</div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script> Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-7645882987970640322014-08-15T06:12:00.002-07:002014-08-15T06:12:56.231-07:00AAW on WGBH<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5Mgm1T3xD8/U-4GUivtHWI/AAAAAAAABvs/h6cZzZuNzF8/s1600/Ties_wide_shot_for_top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5Mgm1T3xD8/U-4GUivtHWI/AAAAAAAABvs/h6cZzZuNzF8/s1600/Ties_wide_shot_for_top.jpg" height="202" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Amanda Kersey of WGBH, Boston public radio/tv/news source, kindly visited the AAW Shop a couple of weeks ago. A few days later, she tagged along on a "hunting trip" with me, where I did a lot of pontificating from the drivers seat. The result is<a href="http://wgbhnews.org/post/hunt-affordable-wardrobe-s-joe-ferraro"> this nice piece at the WGBH website</a>. Thanks, Amanda. It was fun working with you.</div><br /><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-65830977724483733922014-08-13T15:29:00.000-07:002014-08-13T15:29:02.136-07:00Free Stuff: Knot Standard, part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TAXhSwn82Fo/U-veP8gP8hI/AAAAAAAABuw/fs5i9yqvkYM/s1600/photo%2B2%2B(12).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TAXhSwn82Fo/U-veP8gP8hI/AAAAAAAABuw/fs5i9yqvkYM/s1600/photo%2B2%2B(12).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The world of so-called "online custom" has exploded in recent years, and as a lover of fine clothes who is also a consummate cheapskate, I want to believe that while this is in no way the same as real bespoke, that someone will hit it well enough that it could at least be a viable option for well crafted clothes made of good fabric at a price that is at least imaginable for many men. A few months back I was contacted by <a href="http://www.knotstandard.com/">Knot Standard</a> about doing a review of one of their jackets, and decided to give them a a go. Despite my <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2011/09/neither-fish-nor-fowl-trouble-with.html">less than glowing experience in the past</a>, I really want to believe that this can work if you know how to pull it off right.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Knot Standard's ordering process is like many others in that it asks you to input a very specific set of measurements in order to cut a "pattern" from which to make your garment. If I've learned anything from bad experiences it's this: you can't measure yourself properly, and neither can your significant other. This time out, I wrote down all the measurements they asked for and had my tailor take them for me. This not only ensures a more accurate and impartial set of numbers, but in a way gets closer to actual custom, in that a professional took my measurements, even if he wasn't the same person who made the final garment.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Within five weeks or so of placing the order, my jacket arrived. I chose a cobalt blue 100% linen fabric in a slubby herringbone weave by Holland and Sherry. Upon opening the box, I was immediately impressed. The cloth was high quality, the construction was excellent, and all my specific detail requests were met exactly, in this case: 3/2 darted front, natural shoulders, side vents, three open patch pockets, two button surgeon cuffs, and a partial lining. See below:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgCXWTm3ZOk/U-vhxH3-7LI/AAAAAAAABu4/7v0HYc5kDZM/s1600/photo%2B3%2B(9).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgCXWTm3ZOk/U-vhxH3-7LI/AAAAAAAABu4/7v0HYc5kDZM/s1600/photo%2B3%2B(9).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>&nbsp;Note the correct "old style" button placement, with a high top button in line with the breast pocket.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nx8tJIGDKhk/U-vh0LUTJ8I/AAAAAAAABvA/-8jSPgVSe5s/s1600/photo%2B4%2B(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nx8tJIGDKhk/U-vh0LUTJ8I/AAAAAAAABvA/-8jSPgVSe5s/s1600/photo%2B4%2B(4).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>&nbsp;Blue and white gingham bemberg lining is a plus, as well as properly taped exposed edges.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8NQK5bTmvyA/U-vh2cywPHI/AAAAAAAABvI/NqpZHzJ7uIg/s1600/photo%2B1%2B(13).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8NQK5bTmvyA/U-vh2cywPHI/AAAAAAAABvI/NqpZHzJ7uIg/s1600/photo%2B1%2B(13).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">A two button surgeon cuff is more than a bit unusual, but they did it, and did it well at that, no questions asked. Check that slub.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As for fit the jacket was very close. But the only troubling thing was the fact that the shoulders were a whiff too tight. Not much, but enough to be a thing that would prevent me from wearing this jacket much.So I contacted my man at the place and told him. At first, he asked that I consult a tailor and offered up to $75 to cover alterations. I replied that the shoulders were just too tight, but added that as this was a gratis garment I didn't want to be greedy and demand a remake. My man than replied that this was nonsense, and of course they would remake my jacket to fit. His only regret was that it will take an additional 4-6 weeksto complete the task, and that by the time I receive that second jacket, Summer will be over and it will be too late to wear it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Ah well, there's always next year.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RdyfN2rKo6g/U-vj9FDsgeI/AAAAAAAABvQ/pJVxDDimlME/s1600/photo%2B3%2B(10).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RdyfN2rKo6g/U-vj9FDsgeI/AAAAAAAABvQ/pJVxDDimlME/s1600/photo%2B3%2B(10).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The price of this jacket would have been $395. That's no small change for a cheapskate. However, this jacket is extremely well constructed of excellent fabric and was delivered in relatively short order. That jacket you might get in the store at Joe Banks or Mens Wearhouse for that same price? This is miles better. And while I did have fit issues, customer service and communication have been great with these guys. So far, so good. Can't wait to see how the replacement works out.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-38604428690890880602014-08-09T08:25:00.000-07:002014-08-09T08:36:32.083-07:00Perils of Thrifting : A Law of Averages<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XCmIGebhu5w/U-Y5b-OT7UI/AAAAAAAABuU/UF0wdwJh-48/s1600/photo+1+(11).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XCmIGebhu5w/U-Y5b-OT7UI/AAAAAAAABuU/UF0wdwJh-48/s1600/photo+1+(11).JPG" height="320" width="274" /></a></div>The " Law of Averages" we discussed <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/08/rules-of-thirfting-law-of-averages.html">in our last</a> post does of course have a converse side to it. When you buy old things, you are of course buying things which have been worn previously. There will be no real way of knowing how much they were worn, and how well the previous owner, or in some cases owners, took care of his garments. Sometimes, a great find doesn't last too long once you have it. It's especially true of lighter materials like cotton and linen. I've had no end of great shirts bite the dust after I've worn and washed them only once or twice.<br /><br />After wearing it only half a dozen times, the trousers to my recently acquired seersucker suit have reached the end. Torn wide open, down the seat and partway down one leg, they are now irreparably damaged. Remember what I said about the <a href="http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2014/06/all-in-details-right-seersucker.html">difficulty of finding old seersucker in good condition</a>? Well, turns out that's very true.I suppose it's partly my fault for wearing it to work on a night when I had to bend and lift a number of cases of wine, but it's disappointing nonetheless.<br /><br />But that's really all it is, a disappointment, and a relatively small one at that. Perhaps it's my years spent selling perishable goods at my other job, but I've learned to accept that there will be a certain amount of inevitable loss that needs to be factored in here. The trick is to try to keep that loss to a minimum. And as the law of averages states, even accounting for loss, alterations, and mishaps, I still come out very far ahead. Plus, there always an element of chance involved, which I suppose is sort of fun, I guess. Beats hell out of satisfying that fix with scratch tickets anyway.<br /><br /><i>p.s. make with the fat jokes all you like. This happened two weeks ago, and I already heard them all from those present at the time, and of course Mrs. G and the children.</i>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-33965119027643269672014-08-02T09:48:00.001-07:002014-08-02T09:48:33.239-07:00Rules of Thirfting : A Law of Averages<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v8fibGfq-jA/U90Prkw4UqI/AAAAAAAABt8/zEiJxo58Oew/s1600/flusser.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v8fibGfq-jA/U90Prkw4UqI/AAAAAAAABt8/zEiJxo58Oew/s1600/flusser.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Thrift shopping, and living cheaply most of the time, is something of a game without rules. There are so many vagaries to contend with, and so much chance involved that the only "rule" that's true all the time is that anything can happen at any time. After a while, you learn to see the big picture as something of a law of averages.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The suit pictured above is my own most recent acquisition. Very dressy, perhaps even a whiff out of character for me, but until now I had never seen a double breasted three piece suit in the flesh. It's like a unicorn, the stuff of legend, seen only in black and white movies. Rendered in heavy but soft nailhead flannel and replete with 1930s details, made custom for someone in the mid-90s in New York by Alan Flusser, at $100, I simply couldn't resist.&nbsp;</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The suit will need a bit of alterations, but there's no hurry since it's a winter cloth. The alterations it does need are a little unusual though. The trousers and vest fit perfectly, and the sleeves are just the right length, which is good as it has surgeon cuffs (working buttonholes). The odd thing is that despite the trouser waist being just right, the jacket waist needs to come in, and despite the inseam and sleeves being just right, the coat needs to be shortened by a half an inch or so. The waist is an easy, common alteration, but shortening the coat will take some work and cost some money. It's not an alteration that is always possible, as you run the risk of spoiling the coats proportions, but in this case, the buttons and pockets are set in such a way that half an inch will work. The coat has side vents which are cut deep enough to take the loss of length, and because the coat is double breasted, it has corners at the front rather than the curved edges found on a single breasted coat, making this task a little easier to accomplish.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So here's how this law of averages works. While $100 may be an incredible deal for a suit of this calibre, it is well more than what I usually pay for a second hand suit. The alterations will likely cost about $100 as well. By comparison as I write this I am wearing another thrifted suit that cost $40 and needed no alterations, and my favorite all purpose navy blazer was less than $10. You simply can't expect any kind of consistency in pricing any &nbsp;more than you can expect to find a specific thing on a specific day. When taken as part of an average the cost of all my clothes, this suit is cheaper even in a sense than what I paid for it. Besides, thrift shop long enough and $200 all in becomes an expensive guilty splurge on a spectacular suit, when most other people are ready to spend as much on diffusion line "Chaps Ralph Lauren" suit<a href="http://www.kohls.com/catalog/mens-dress-dress-suits-clothing.jsp?CN=4294723349+4294737442+4294719809+4294719810">, or something similarly lackluster, at a place like Kohl's</a>. Besides, there's adventure and chance involved in thrift shopping, which for the professional cheapskate is more than half the fun. And the smarmy feeling of self satisfaction that comes with knowing that you got one over on that guy who bought his cheap suit at Kohl's is kind of priceless.</div><br /><a data-pin-do="buttonBookmark" data-pin-height="28" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/button/"><img src="//assets.pinterest.com/images/pidgets/pinit_fg_en_rect_gray_28.png" /></a><!-- Please call pinit.js only once per page --><script async="" src="//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9081206974005845104.post-53078241432770335412014-07-30T20:46:00.000-07:002014-07-30T20:47:17.079-07:00The Striped Tee<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/U4mnVxPWQ8s" width="410"></iframe><br /><br />Though it may seem something of a sacrilege to many around here, I have to admit that this Summer I have come around to the idea of the striped tee shirt. Double indemnity for liking it especially well when paired with high waisted pleated pants. More on this to come.Giuseppehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17212956969066796818noreply@blogger.com3