America's Best New Chefs 2000

Best. New. Chefs. Three of our favorite words in the English language. put them together and you've got the thing that we at Food & Wine live for: the chance, once a year, to celebrate the most exciting newcomers on the culinary scene. Make no mistake—this is a massive project. We comb through hundreds of nominations from well-placed food pros, travel all around the country and eat more meals than are probably good for us. But it's a project we love, because once we've done our homework, we ask only one thing of the final candidates: thrill us. These three women and seven men did just that. they are talented, original and driven to excel. It's our pleasure to introduce them.

Andrew CarmelliniCafe Boulud, New York City

WhyBecause while working in the French style of the restaurant's owner, Daniel Boulud, he has forged a culinary identity all his own.

BornCleveland, 1971.

EducationCulinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY.

ExperienceLe Cirque 2000 and Lespinasse in New York City.

First thing preparedTossed salad with vegetables from his family's backyard garden.

How he got into cooking"I was a very hyperactive kid. My mom says cooking was the only thing that would calm me down."

What he'd be if he weren't a chefA guitarist in a rock band. "I've been playing guitar since I was six."

A request he said no toGrilled skate. "It's difficult to grill skate."

Strangest food eatenBaby loofah (a gourd whose fibrous skeleton is commonly used as a bath sponge) with mushrooms and preserved sea scallops at Ping's Seafood in Queens, in New York City.

Favorite food books"I have a lot of out-of-print reference books on plants, flowers and vegetables."

HobbyRock climbing. "When we signed the loans on the restaurant, I had to promise not to do it anymore."

Trend he hatesThe rage for flavored foams. "The potential for abuse has been realized very quickly."

Vices"I nip at cookie dough. And I love a good chocolate malted."

Restaurant details1293 Washington St.; 617-244-9199.

Tim Goodell Aubergine, Newport Beach, Ca

WhyBecause he has successfully married classical French techniques with first-rate California ingredients.

BornAlbuquerque, NM, 1965.

EducationCalifornia Culinary Academy, San Francisco.

ExperienceThe Ritz-Carlton Dining Room in San Francisco and Pascal's in Newport Beach.

First food memoryChili made by his mother, who grew up in Mexico.

Favorite machineA red Dodge pickup he uses to carry ingredients.

What he'd be if he weren't a chefAn architect.

Favorite cookbookLarousse Gastronomique. "Even though it's old, I can always find something new in it."

HobbiesDownhill skiing, driving his 1966 Ford Mustang and hanging out with his one-year-old son and four-year-old daughter.

Favorite restaurantRuby's Diner in Newport Beach. "My kids can wreck the place and I don't have to worry about it."

Pet peeveMediocrity. "I love it when people do good things. I can even appreciate it when somebody's really bad. But being down the middle is a big issue for me."

Restaurant details508 29th St.; 949-723-4150.

Loren Falsone Empire, Providence

Why With Eric Moshier, her husband and co-chef, Falsone has reinterpreted Italian home cooking in an inventive, modern, American way.

BornEast Setauket, NY, 1970.

EducationJohnson & Wales, Providence.

ExperienceAl Forno, in Providence.

First thing cooked Apple pie. "Everybody took one bite and spit it out. I think I put in a cup of salt instead of a cup of sugar."

Mentors Johanne Killeen and George Germon, founders of Al Forno. (The two are also partners in Empire.)

An embarrassing momentKilleen and Germon took her to Italy during truffle season, and she didn't like the taste of truffles. "Johanne was appalled. But George said, 'Don't worry, honey. I didn't like them at first, either.'"

What she'd be if she weren't a chefA jazz singer. "Whenever I've had too much to drink at a party, you can rest assured I'll get up and sing."

ViceChocolate. "I had a dream that I was in a movie and I had to eat lots of chocolates. The director kept saying, 'Go faster!' I woke up and thought, You've got some issues, girl."

Next projectWriting a novel set in a restaurant with her husband.

Restaurant details 123 Empire St.; 401-621-7911.

Joseph WredeJoseph's Table, Taos, NM

WhyBecause he uses local organic foods in surprising, sensual ways.

BornPhoenix, AZ,1966.

Education Peter Kump's New York Cooking School in Manhattan.

ExperienceHighlands Garden Cafe and Aubergine Cafe in Denver.

Early food memorySnails and 7-Up at The Maisonette in Cincinnati, age 6.

Why he wanted to be a chef"There were a lot of restaurants in our neighborhood. I remember walking down a street in summertime, hearing noise and plates and silverware, and people talking and laughing, and thinking, That's where I want to be."

What's hanging outside his restaurantCopper pots inherited from his father. "I like to listen to them clanging against the building."

Favorite cookbookRichard Olney's Simple French Food. "I read it the way you would read 'The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock.'"

A famous regularDennis Hopper.

What he'd be if he weren't a chefA poet.

Restaurant details4167 S. Santa Fe Rd.; 505-751-4512.

Andrea CurtoWish, Miami

Why Because she creates flavors that are impressively bold and nicely balanced at the same time.

BornVero Beach, FL, 1970.

EducationCulinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY.

ExperienceTribeca Grill in New York City and The Heights in Coral Gables, FL.

Culinary heroHer grandmother. "She was the epitome of what Italian grandmothers should be: heavyset, sweet as could be, smelled a little like garlic and an awesome cook."

First thing cookedChili. "I think I put in everything in the spice cabinet."

Favorite toolA Japanese mandoline.

How she relaxesFishing trips with her boyfriend on his 22-foot boat. "That boat is my biggest competition."

Favorite local restaurantJoe Allen. "I get the same thing every time: meatloaf with mashed potatoes. I always think I'm going to try something new, and then I'm like, Why bother?"

Favorite cocktailBourbon and ginger ale. "I'm a sucker for a good margarita, too."

Restaurant details801 Collins Ave.; 305-674-9474.

Takashi YagihashiTribute, Farmington Hills, MI

Why Because his dishes exquisitely combine French and Japanese ideas.

BornMito, Japan, 1957.

Experience Yoshi's Cafe and Ambria in Chicago.

Early food memory"I grew up only 10 miles from the ocean, so we had lots of fresh seafood. Fish was very cheap, meat was very expensive so nobody ever fed me beef or lamb."

Favorite childhood restaurants"Western food was very rare in my town, so McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken were high-end."

Least favorite food"Okay, I'm not crazy about ketchup. But I like mayonnaise."

A rule in his kitchenHis line cooks are forbidden to have soft drinks while they're working. "I think it ruins their palates."

What he'd be if he weren't a chefA "Pat Metheny-style" guitarist.

Favorite restaurantsSavarin and Arun in Chicago.

What he does when he's not workingSpends time with his wife and three children, ages eight, five and one. "I cook traditional Japanese food; the kids like it. My son's favorite is sukiyaki. He calls it brown meat.'"