Seeing the sad state your car was in reminds me of my car when I found it. The body was in good shape, that was it. Just a good clean rust free body. A great starting point for a swap! I can't wait to see yours done.

Hey Snipes-
Yes you got it very good body. Its been slow goining this summer, been involved with boat & kids generally having a dam good time. While the car has been on the back burner, I'm starting to get the itch again. Lots of small projects interior, gauges, rebuild pedals & quick shift etc..
Chow, Jeff

Point taken on the blocks, you are showing your age though becuase they have not made "cinder blocks " since the 70s. I will fill the blocks or look into something else other than concrete/cement blocks to hold up the car.

Thanks Yan-
It is going well, not as fast as I would have liked, but I'm getting it all sorted out, trying to get it all right & look good while doing it is tough. Spending wisely etc.. Thanks for the support.
Jeff

Well, slowly anyway, In addition to the normal stuff rebuilt pedals, new short shift & related bushings, I had to pull the drive-line to re-work a couple items that I didn't like. I had a drip from the rebuilt tranny right under the mount, tightened that up no leak. I did not like the way I had the engine coolant lines run and how I had the clamps set so I solved that. I installed a new clutch cable. Then I decided to put the ECU under the seat as described by RH. It really does clean up the engine bay of which I have painted white. It looks cleaner & it helps with eyesight I need to finish up some wiring then on to the interior. I want to finish what I have started before I move on to the rest of the car.
Thanks for looking,
Jeff

Md-
I have already purchased the Radiator kit from RH (easy way, time saver). I believe the front mount to have some weight distribution advantages. When properly sealed should work as RH describes. However I will take a second look at the rear mounted deck lid setup. As I still could easily switch to the rear setup, but it's not likely. My car is being built for driving/commuting. So I will need to be durable,reliable.dependable, & cost effective. If you take a look at Yans "89 LS1 conversion" work he is using the rear mounted system, this set up has its own distict advantages as well.
Good luck,
Jeff

I got some wiring straightened out (lots more to go upgrades adding fuses & such) and got into the clutch cable setup need to measure. I installed foil bubble insulation with spray glue and foil tapped the seams it worked out great. I need to finish the interior carpet then the seats can go in. I'm kicking around a rear deck speaker idea but it would be a back burner for now.

I know it looks pretty cool, like a 930 interior mixing the 2 colors like the factory did. Its also cool how it will perform like one.

Will _ Thanks for looking. The car is a late 77, as I understand it you could order anything the factory offered so........
I also can't feel any seems in the wheel wells, the flares look & seem flawless! I purchased the car because I like the way the car looks & sits so no need to change it. I agree it does share the SC's good looks!

I assume you are reading the door post vin for the manufacture date.
Anything built after Aug 77 is technically a 78 model so you probably do have an SC.

I assume you are reading the door post vin for the manufacture date.
Anything built after Aug 77 is technically a 78 model so you probably do have an SC.

I try never, ever, to ass-u-me my friend. "Trust but verify- Ronaldo Magnus Reagan" I apologize if I mis led you, writing "the car was built in late 1977" Here are the facts according to the named source below.

Other 911S characteristics
A 911S rear hood badge. The car also came with the green bilsteins all around. Console included. No power options only A/C- Tail lights seem original, dated 1977. The front aluminum calipers are long gone, but no surprise there, as they were notorious leakers.
The trans was rebuilt with taller 4th & 5th gears trans also verified to be a 77 trans # 915/61 71 7 0xx

I don't doubt your enthusiasm my friend, and I agree, the car is a good looker. Who knows maybe the flares were added later. The point being the car is light & sweet, (no rust) with all the good stuff I care about, isn't that the point! The owner should really like whats in his or her garage. Price wasn't bad either $1900 Thanks for looking.

Things are going well, I have bought more goodies, but I have not installed them so no documentation yet. Just doing the nuts & bolts stuff. I have completed the carpet install, it looks great not to difficult. I need to run my coolant lines up front. If you have done this project you know why I'm asking, Where did you purchase the hose? What did you spend for a roll of hose at what price?
Thanx, Jeff

Don't know the question on the hose, Jeff, but if I were water-coolin' one, I'd be looking real seriously into copper or other hard-line with hoses at the ends only. As the factory oil lines under the car are hard-lines, perhaps the water lines should be as well in the interest of durability.

You could make some thing VERY workmanlike that passes along the rockers.

Hi Angela-
Interesting idea, may take a look at some aluminum or copper, but they may cost more than the rubber. The rubber being flexible makes it easier to conform to where I'm sending it. The lines would be 1 1/4 id so may be tough to bend the metal lines at home. Thanks for looking.
Jeff