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The following is good to know before a buying the kit:
• BMW has a 2nd generation Ipod kit (65 11 0 409 342) as of September 2005. This kit according to BMW works with all 30-pin dock connector Ipods (i.e. 3rd & 4th generation, Mini and Color Ipods). It doesn’t work with 1st& 2nd generation Ipods or the Ipod Shuffle. I installed an Ipod 20GB Color (MA079LL/A) in my bimmer.

• Your Ipod will draw power off the car battery even after turning the car off unless you unplug it from your BMW. Will BMW fix this in the 3rd generation kit, if there ever is a 3rd generation kit??? It sucks unplugging the Ipod everyday.

• 5/8” drill bits typical have a 1/2” shank on them this could be a problem if you have a standard out of the box drill. You will need a new chuck or a 5/8” bit with 3/8” shank (I found a bit like this at Sears (US $20), Lowe’s didn’t carry it). This bit is used to drill the hole in your glove box.

Additional Installation Instructions:
(This is for information only, I take no responsibility for any damage caused by someone putting it to use)

Step 8: Taking The Plug Apart Part 2 (the hard part)

• Before using the pin removal tool (61 1 132). Push the slide clip all the way up. While applying a little press to hold it up use a small screw driver to lift the tab (on each side of the slide clip) a tiny bit. Don’t break it. The first tab may appear to pop down when you go to lift the second tab that’s ok. Lifting the second tab will cause the slide clip to pop off. This is how it worked for me.

• The connector has a front and a back half. Going to the top front of the connector stick a screw driver just below the back lip and pry up using the front of the connector as a fulcrum. You will hear a click after moving the back part of the connector up about 1.5 mm.

• Now you can remove the pins easily.

• After swapping the pins use your hands to push the back of the connector down. The front and back of the connector should be flush on top now.

Step 11: Dealing With The Small Plug

• The little black tab mentioned is on the side of the cover. There is a hole on the top of the cover that can be used to push the connector out of the cover while lifting the tab.

Step 18: “Mounting” the interface Box

• I don’t like where Mike the Mad Russian put it. What you can’t see in his picture is that the interface box is touching a HVAC control lever. I am not comfortable with that.

I put the interface box above the radio:
• With the radio out the radio carrier is exposed. Look up and see the bars getting farther apart the more to the right you go. I used a steak knife to cut the the last bar on the right. After cutting though the center of the bar move each half of the bar side to side until it breaks off. This made the hole just big enough to slide the interface box up above the radio.

• The interface box lays in there with the cable connectors facing to your right. I got the interface box partially up there before plugging in the cables. Make sure the foam cover is around the interface box. Just like Mike’s way this will take some messing around to get it all in there.

• With interface box up on top of the radio carrier I just slid it towards me sandwiching the interface box into a grove that you can’t see. The box is a little more to the left than being centered.

I have had this kit installed 2 weeks now and have had no problems (i.e. squeaks or rattles, ect..).

Note: After reconnecting the battery don’t stick the key in the last position before crank without starting the car. This will cause an Airbag code to set.