Due to the Success of Last weeks clinic I will be doing a repeat event Saturday the 25th of August.

Don't get bogged down with a case of the Augusts. There is still time to learn a new trick or dial in those jibes.

I will be throwing a Jibe, Trick Jibe and Carve 360 clinic at Candlestick...or a nearby windy location depending on conditions.

We will do a bunch of land work to get down the basics and then move out on the water, where I will anchor myself so you can rip those laydowns all around me or crash in the process and get some helpful pointers.

$75 includes lunch and after sailing beverages.

We will meet at the stick at 11:00 and rip until we can't hold on anymore...or the wind backs off.

If you have never tried a 1 handed carve 360, you are missing out. They require far less commitment than a 2 handed carve 360 and can be nailed long before you are 100% on your jibes.

And if you separate the Duck from the Jibe in a Duck Jibe you will save countless wipeouts.

#1 Front Foot Pressure: You should initiate your jibe by putting all the pressure you can muster into your front foot strap and onto the ball of your front foot. Front foot pressure should be the constant throughout your jibe while back foot pressure should be used to dictate the radius of your jibe.

#2 Look under the boom: at the water downwind of the nose of our board. This will keep you crouched down with your knees and arms bent. If you look over the boom you will kill STEP #1.

#3 Make sure it is in your mental checklist to slide your front hand all the way forward on the boom (towards the mast) just before you get ready to flip the sail. This will ensure the sail is able to flip cleanly.

#4 Actively Flip the Sail: This is the most frequently forgotten step. To ensure the sail flips quickly and efficiently when you want it to flip. And to ensure it lands in front of you after the flip (not behind you, that is bad),YOU MUST!: Actively flip the sail by sweeping your front hand from one shoulder in the direction of your other shoulder across your chest. (Practice this with a sail on the beach.)

#5 Click your heels together, when switching your feet, making sure to cross the centerline of the board as you bring your old front foot back. Crossing the center line with your old front foot cause you to weight the inside (turning) rail and keep the board turning in the right direction. Make sure your new front foot goes all the way up to the mast base to help distribute your weight.

I will be throwing a Jibe, Trick Jibe and Carve 360 clinic at Candlestick...or a nearby windy location depending on conditions.

I took the class a month ago and learned a lot and I've been sailing over 20 years and most days I make most of my jibes on the SF Bay at Coyote Pt... It is amazing what habits we develop or how we forget a few things and Wyatt can spot them and point them out to us. The most valuable thing I got was the multiple tips for both slogging and planing upwind against a flood tide with smaller and smaller fins.

Wyatt. Can you remind me of what you said to avoid hooking in again while jibing at Coyote (chop) with longer harness lines? I seem fine with the 28" lines using my 5.5 but for some reason I keep hooking in when on my 6.5 sail outside... maybe I'm too powered up and that is causing it but would appreciate a reminder.

We had a super successful clinic at Candlestick yesterday (it cranked..maybe a bit too much).

Due to the Success of Last weeks clinic I will be doing a repeat event Saturday the 25th of August.

As for the re-hooking in while jibing in chop. I think the main cure is to "get low" bending your knees more and really squatting down in the jibe will get you some separation from the harness lines. Also one of the biggest issues we worked on yesterday was people not getting low enough in their jibes, or hitting chop and standing up straight causing the board to stop carving. "Getting Low" really helps you absorb the chop and keep the rail in the water and keeps you away from those harness lines. Not to mention the fact that as soon as you stand up straight in a jibe your front heel drops to the pad and you stop giving that all important front foot pressure.

Here's a trick to keeping from hooking in. It works if you ride long harness lines close together. Before putting your harness lines on your booms, turn them 180 degrees (so that they would hang from the inside of the boom) and put a half twist in each side, in opposite directions, i.e., clockwise on one, counter on the other (so that they hang from the outside of the boom as normal). If you do this right, it will make the harness lines bend inward. (Wrong way and they bend outward.) This works on Dakine fixed lines, not sure if the Chinooks work. The main thing is that the harness lines need to be solid up to the webbing, i.e., no adjustable lines.

Takes a little getting used to under sail, since your harness lines need to be hanging outward to easily hook in. I can easily adjust them under sail before hooking in if they hang to far inward, by twisting them outward with my sail hand. Then when you go to gybe (tack, 360, whatever) they fall away from you as soon as you unhook.

We definitely have time to cover tacks in this clinic, and I always taper the material towards what people are most interested in. So ya we can definitely work on tacks.

The flat water at Candlestick makes it an ideal location for sure.

The one thing about the tack (other than the fact that they are really hard and I was sponsored before I had them dialed on both sides..Ha) is that no one makes the transition to the other side earlier enough due to the way we learned the long board tack.

I think Wyatt said he uses 30" harness lines and is trying to get used to 32" lines.

I thought you (Wyatt) said you were using 28" lines.... Which is it?

Thanks.

BTW, bending my knees more on the light wind, big sail jibes helped not to hook in again with the longer (28" vs 24" before) lines... I think I was straightening up while waiting for the board to finish carving..... getting sloppy on the easy ones... thanks for the tip._________________Best Regards
Kirk Out
http://bayareawindsurfing.blogspot.com/http://kirklindstrom.blogspot.com/

I took the clinic last Saturday. I would highly recommend attending. Like Kirk, I have been sailing for a long time and not unusual for me to sail at Coyote for an hour or more and still have dry hair. BUT, I want to be able plane out of all my jibes and drive through the jibe on my front foot.

I learned a lot at the clinic. I spend a lot of time in the water now. I feel like I am starting again, but it is good to be challenging and pushing myself. Wyatt is an excellent teacher and really does tailor to the participants needs. There wasn't any "look how good I am stuff", just a focus on helping us improve.

There were LOTS of windsurfing tips to be picked up that didn't even relate to jibing! The ones about how best to work upwind while planing and not planing were worth the price of admission just on their own. Then there were many others.

We did get to see a few freestyle moves the North American champ can pull off at the end of the clinic. Not bad.

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