Nutritional question in relation to difficult eating situation for Toad

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Nutritional question in relation to difficult eating situation for Toad

Hey there!

I have two western toads; one eats like a machine while the other has never quite adjusted to tank life fully. It's a struggle to get him to eat.

In order to feed him I have to use a pair of feeding tongs and present the food above his head as he will not look downwards for prey. Removing him from the tank does not work as he struggle to escape the feeding tub the whole time.

My question Is, since I can only really feed him superworms effectively and efficiently is making sure they are dusted with calcium and repti vitamins enough to ensure he is getting the right nutrients? I know supers are mostly chitin but I'm hoping the supplemental vitamins on them help. I've also been adding liquid bird vitamins to their water dish for absorption!

Is there anything physically wrong with the problematic toad?
Sometimes, when individuals are kept together, one specimen becomes dominant. The dominant toad then eats most of the food, which makes it stronger and the other toad weaker. So, my first suggestion would be to set up a separate enclosure for the dominant toad. It might very well make a difference in the problematic toad's appetite.
Nutritionally, superworms are better than mealworms, but still not great. I personally would not rely solely on superworms for any herp. Crickets, dubia, and earthworms are all good feeders that should be incorporated somehow.

No physical problems I can ascertain; besides the possibility that the trouble eater may have vision problems. They're always separated for feedings so there hasn't been an issue with dominance and if anything he has the weight and size over the female; always stepping on her and pushing her around.

I think his major issue is stress, he will make multiple attempts to eat dew worms off the tongs but in a feeding tub he is a disaster; I have had a few successes with horn worms as well but they are expensive and I've heard they facilitate bowl movements.

I know I'm not doing him any favors feeding him this way but if it's all I can get in him hopefully at least the supplements will help. I appreciate the info though! Thank You!

i suggest you feed them earthworms, never, ever ever ever should you feed them redworms though. feed them nightcrawlers and dust them. they are PACKED with nutrients and they are the best things to feed toads.

I don't think the superworms will cut it for a diet. Sometimes toads of the same sex are more prone to bullying so if they are the same sex that's possible but toads in general are greedy so you can't role out the toads just being greedy. If you have a bigger tank you can throw food to both of them different times at feeding so one is on one side of the tank eating and the other is eating on the other side of the tank. Earthworms and Crickets would be the easiest to attain and to feed the toads. I am curious about red worms too? I know if your toad dislikes the smell it gives off they will reject them and never touch the red wrigglers again. I've had toads eat them and stop, I've had toads not accept them and toads eat them until they died of old age or being released (mine were native to my area). The red wrigglers are more of a chance food if the toad will accept them or not so it is best for this toad who is weaker to eat something you know it will certainly take.

If your dominant toad seems to be stressing the other toad out during feeding time or just getting in the way, consider feeding the dominant toad separately in the feeding tub and then leaving him / her there (with a lid so it can’t excaoe obviously) and then feeding the difficult toad while it is still in the tank, alone. Night crawlers are the way to go, also hornworms are great. Both my toads have grown a ton because I changed my primary food source to nightcrawlers and hornworms instead of crickets / mealworms.