The simplest
orgonite device is likely the TB: a crystal placed in
metal shavings with resin. These are effective made just
as described, but there are times when it may seem
advisable to increase their power, especially in
situations when they cannot be employed in quantity.
Various methods have been used for this purpose, such as
adding enhanced water to the resin mix or wrapping
crystals with copper coils.

The simplest and most effective way I know to strengthen
TBs is to charge crystals with a pyramid prior to
construction. It requires a small cost and some
attention to construct the pyramid, but once the pyramid
is there, stones can be charged, and in quantity, for no
further expenditure. It is my experience that the power
of a TB whose crystal is charged in this way is at least
doubled.

Requirements for the pyramid are as follows:
..(1).. it should have four triangular faces.
..(2).. the height of a
triangular face should be half the length of its
base times the
Golden Ratio. Of course, since we are dealing with
physical objects made by cutting and taping (or gluing),
this can only be done approximately. For our purposes,
we can take 1.6 for the Golden Ratio, which means that
the height of a triangular face can be taken to be .8,
or 4/5 of the base length.
..(3).. the insides of the pyramid should reflect light
well. This can be done by using shiny metal for the
faces, by painting the insides with silver paint, or
covering the insides with shiny metallic tape. A simple
solution for the base of the pyramid is to find a mirror
on which to set the upper part. The upper part of the
pyramid should not be attached to the base (unless by
hinges on one side), because one must be free to put in
and take out the objects to be charged.
..(4).. there must be a source of light to the inside of
the pyramid. This can either be sunlight or artificial
light. The simplest solution seems to be
to cut the upper tips of the triangles off so that a
hole is left at the top of the pyramid.
Some advocate that
the pyramid be alligned North-South, or magnetically
North-South, but I have found that the effects of doing
this are only marginal, and that for practical purposes
this can be ignored.

In my next post under this topic, I will detail how I
construct them, but first a few things about their use:
..(1).. objects to be charged should be placed under the
apex of the pyramid, about 1/5 the length of the base
above the base. This can be done by hanging them on a
string or copper wire which passes through the hole in
the top. However, if the operator is not particularly
energy sensitive, it is probably better to position a
pedestal within the pyramid on which the objects to be
charged can be placed: the height of the pedestal should
be about 1/5 of the length of the base of the pyramid
for best results. This pedestal should also reflect
light.
..(2).. objects to be charged should stay inside the
pyramid for at least 3 hours, but I usually leave them
in about 12. During this time there must be a continuous
source of light. If it is nighttime, or in a dark room
during the day, one can leave a light bulb on above the
hole in the top.
..(3).. when the charged objects are removed, they
immediately begin to lose their charge, albeit slowly.
Thus it is best to remove the crystals from the pyramid
only just prior to pouring. Once the orgonite is formed,
the crystals retain whatever charge they have at that
point, apparently indefinately.

Last edited by Laozu on Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:09 am; edited
1 time in total

Laozu

Joined: 25 Jan 2005
Posts: 19

Posted: Sat
Feb 26, 2005 2:01 am Post
subject:

....SAMPLE
CONSTRUCTION of a pyramid with base 15" by 15"...

Find a roll of shiny galvanized steel sheet metal of
width 12" and cut off a length 37 and 1/2 inches. This
can be purchased at a good hardware store, lumber yard,
or sheet metal shop (such as a heating/AC business).
Roll it out on a flat surface and mark it
as in the picture here. Obtain a good pair of metal
shears and cut along the lines (being careful not to cut
yourself on the metal edges). Now clip the top inch off
each triangle.

If you don't have access to metal shears, just have the
sheet metal shop cut you four isosceles triangles with
base 15" and height 12", having the top inch cut off as
well. They may have some duct-work scraps on hand that
will work.

Get some alumninum tape. Place the triangles side to
side
as in the figure, with the shinier side up, if there
is one. Run a piece of tape down each joint, and run a
fourth piece of tape along one of the non-joining sides,
so that half of it overlaps, not sticking.

Carefully fold the sides to form a pyramid, with the
tape inside, attaching the overlapping tape to the last
side as the two unjoined sides come together. Now set
the
pyramid on the table with the open base on a flat
surface.

Carefully tape the four outer joints. You do not
specifically need the aluminum tape for this, but it
will work fine.

Now we make the pedestal for charging the crystals.
Depending on how many crystals you wish to charge at a
time, get either a 11" two by six board or a 7" two by
four board. Cut the board into two equal pieces, and
glue one piece on top of the other. Since a two by six
board is actually 1.5 by 5.5 inches, you will in this
case have
a block 5.5" by 5.5" by 3" high. In the two by four
case, the block will be 3.5" by 3.5" by 3" high. Wrap
the block with aluminum tape or paint it with silver
paint to make it shiny.

Get a mirror at least 12" by 12" and lay it flat. Lay
the block in the middle of the mirror and set
the pyramid centered over the block. You are now
ready to charge crystals. Just lay them flat on the
block pedestal.