I have been looking since yesterday morning everywhere trying to figure out how to remove my front passenger rotor from my 88 Formula. I need to go get it turned since its shuttering like crazy. My haynes manual says to remove the cap, cotter pin and nut... from what I can see there is no cap. Looks like it should slide right off but wont, We have banged it and tried to pry it but i think i am missing something. Is it just rusted on or what? here is some pics.

Your removal info is for the earlier years. The 88 hub is a one piece sealed unit. (Be careful. The OEM ones are no longer in production. All that are available are Chinese repops or good used ones.)

The rotor is just rusted on. Tap around the edges with a hammer. Inside and outside edges. Not too hard. Just repeatedly.You might try spraying some PB Blaster around the hub and studs to see if it will penetrate through and dissolve some of the rust.

I recently took the rotors off my Formula. Seemed really stuck at first. I sprayed WD-40 around the studs and the center protruding part. Then started hitting the edges and face of the rotor while turning it - with a big rubber mallet. After a couple of minutes, the rotor popped off easily.

It usually gets stuck on the face of the hub where it rusts together.. just spray penetrating oil like pb blaster not wd-40 on back of the rotor torward the center and the front stud holes along with the center cap and work it up and down and side to side it should pull loose pretty easily..also tap the ends of the rotor lightly with a rubber mallet that may help too

When the rotors are rusted on, the tool called the BFH (Big F**kin Hammer) comes into play. A small one may not have enough force. Use a 3lb sledge or dead blow hammer (Reccomend dead blow), and beat the crap out of it, Putting one lug on a couple threads will prevent the rotor from jumping off when it breaks free, and can save your feet or anything under the rotor.

Use a 3 or 5 lb hammer and hit the rotor on the front face right between the studs. It sounds crazy hitting it that way but it works every time. Sometimes the rotor is still good and you don't want to hit it on the brake surfaces.

When the rotors are rusted on, the tool called the BFH (Big F**kin Hammer) comes into play. A small one may not have enough force. OUse a 3lb sledge or dead blow hammer (Reccomend dead blow), and beat the crap out of it, Putting one lug on a couple threads will prevent the rotor from jumping off when it breaks free, and can save your feet or anything under the rotor.

I'm pretty sure a sledge hammer is not the best tool to use when taking off a simple rotor..you can damage the hub, bearings in the hub, or possibly any fragile suspension components from the shock

I'm pretty sure a sledge hammer is not the best tool to use when taking off a simple rotor..you can damage the hub, bearings in the hub, or possibly any fragile suspension components from the shock

This is the method I use to get the rusty rusty rotors off at work, and the way I was trained to do it. Living in NH, we get some BAD Rotors. I have even had some rotors that REFUSED to come off with a hammer, slide hammer, or any form lubing... the method that was used then was cut the hat of the rotor with a cutoff wheel to make a pie slice, and air hammer chunks of the hat off until it snapped the rotor free of the wheel hub.

99% of the hubs should be strong enough to take a 3lb sledge hit, with most of the force being exherted on the rotor itself not on the hub it sits on. I generally smash the hat and sometimes opposing corners of the rotor surface if its being changed. I have yet to see it damage any suspension components of any returning customers. Those suspension components see much harsher treatments from roads and potholes (especially around MA... Boston MA... Rim killer central right there), than a 3lb sledge will ever give it.

I would refrain from using heat as that could travel down the hub and damage the bearing seals. but when you're in a pinch... sometimes you gotta risk a little damage.

After we all went to the pool I grabed up a 40oz of Bud, PB Blaster and 2 min after application banged about 5 - 10 times and glory behold me it came off. I originaly did not want to bang on it much as i was not sure if i was missing something or not, but i guess it was just rusty. Went and had it turned and back on the car within an hour. All is gravy now thanks for the help. I have had to change the heater core, frozen caliper, get rotor turned and change pads all in this past week... first time to realy get down and do so work on my formula since I grabber her up. Now on to find exactly what the H is hising and leaking out oil at the block ner the EGR area.IMG_2246 by Daddy WhiteOut, on Flickr

This is the method I use to get the rusty rusty rotors off at work, and the way I was trained to do it. Living in NH, we get some BAD Rotors. I have even had some rotors that REFUSED to come off with a hammer, slide hammer, or any form lubing... the method that was used then was cut the hat of the rotor with a cutoff wheel to make a pie slice, and air hammer chunks of the hat off until it snapped the rotor free of the wheel hub.

99% of the hubs should be strong enough to take a 3lb sledge hit, with most of the force being exherted on the rotor itself not on the hub it sits on. I generally smash the hat and sometimes opposing corners of the rotor surface if its being changed. I have yet to see it damage any suspension components of any rAeturning customers. Those suspension components see much harsher treatments from roads and potholes (especially around MA... Boston MA... Rim killer central right there), than a 3lb sledge will ever give it.

I would refrain from using heat as that could travel down the hub and damage the bearing seals. but when you're in a pinch... sometimes you gotta risk a little damage.

That's fine I'm sure you have had that..but this is somewhat drastic and more of a last resort..he still had plenty of options to get that rotor of and honestly his rotor doesn't look half as bad as mine did and I live near the ocean in florida lol...and I'm not questioning your skills either..I would just try to do other things first before beating the crap out of it..

That's fine I'm sure you have had that..but this is somewhat drastic and more of a last resort..he still had plenty of options to get that rotor of and honestly his rotor doesn't look half as bad as mine did and I live near the ocean in florida lol...and I'm not questioning your skills either..I would just try to do other things first before beating the crap out of it..

no offense was taken, and I understand the differences in our living conditions :P. Generally for me, I am replacing the rotors since turning them ends up being more expensive in the long run. I do not care about damaging the rotor itself, and the fastest most proven method is to beat the hell out of them... also is a good way to get rid of anger if they are REALLY stuck on.

The problem with using oils on rotors is the fact they are cast iron, and cast iron is porous. Oils such as PB Blaster, Break Away, Deep Creep, etc, and even Brake Fluid, can soak into the rotor like a sponge and leak out through its pores. The fact that they are thin is what makes it so they can seep in there. Axle oil (75w-90) can also contaminate brake rotors/drums and make them feel funny, even if you use brake parts cleaner to try and lift the oils out of the rotors. Generally if I find a contaminated rotor I change it.

They come pickled most of the time, but usually that oil they use burns off rather fast after the first few braking attempts, its really just a form of rust proofing.

That being said, a home mechanic might not look for the fastest way because they aren't on the clock when working on a job like I am, so they have more time to explore different avenues that more suit their tastes in how they want to work on their car. As long as the same goal is reached, then who cares how you do it.