Gluten Freedom: Portland is now a tasty hotbed for gluten-free eating

View full sizeThe Oregonian/2005Orange-fleshed sweet potatoes, often called yams, make a different potato salad.

It's hard to imagine how different the gluten-free scene was just five years ago, at the time when I discovered my own gluten intolerance. Baked goods left much to be desired, not only in terms of taste, but especially texture. Waiters looked confused when asked about gluten-free menus. Grocery stores lacked all but a few lackluster packaged goods. But then things started to change, and not surprisingly Portland bakers and small-business owners led the way in establishing one of the most vibrant gluten-free communities in the country.

In 2008, I approached then-editor of Foodday Martha Holmberg and asked if she'd be willing to make space for a column dedicated entirely to gluten-free food. I still remember her practical, yet interested response, "Let's give it a shot. If it will work anywhere, it will work in Portland." And so "Gluten Freedom" was born, arguably the first column focused exclusively on gluten-free food in a mainstream metropolitan newspaper.

Readers immediately embraced Gluten Freedom (turns out there are plenty of people looking for gluten-free food), not only for the recipes, but also for tips about new products and places to try. My favorite aspect of being a Foodday columnist, in fact, is having the opportunity to share stories about the people and places that make up our wonderful local gluten-free community.

And what a community it is! Most cities consider themselves fortunate to have one dedicated retail gluten-free bakery; we have six. Each of these bakeries is unique, and you'll likely discover a new favorite treat at every stop, whether you're searching for something organic and refined-sugar-free (Cravin' Raven), vegan (Petunia's Pies and Pastries), comforting treats (Gluten Free Gem), or award-winning cupcakes (Crave Bake Shop). Or maybe you'd enjoy a leisurely gluten-free lunch or a cup of coffee with your goodies? New Cascadia and Tula cafes offer both savory and sweet with atmosphere to boot.

We're also home to Bob's Red Mill, a big fish in the gluten-free pond, as well as smaller but increasingly significant local gems such as Harvester Brewing, Bridge City Baking, Oregon Cracker Company, Brazi Bites, Queen of Hearts Baking Co., Jensen's Breads, Sina Baking, Eena Kadeena and many more. This is truly the place to be if you're gluten-free.

As Portland has welcomed these developments in our food frontier, so too has Foodday. We acknowledge that our food system is constantly changing as we strive to make great food for everyone, whether they're gluten-free, vegan or voracious omnivores.

And so in celebration of 30 years of Foodday and the release of "The Oregonian Cookbook," I'd like to share my recipe, once again, for Moroccan Sweet Potato Salad. It's a recipe I developed for The Oregonian before I was even gluten-free, but it perfectly exemplifies my style of cooking: simple, healthy and naturally gluten-free. Here's how it goes: Roast cubed sweet potatoes, toss them with a Moroccan-spiced vinaigrette, top with cilantro and toasted almonds. What's not to love?