It's supposed to be welded-in to the axle housing. Apparently you can get special ball joints or shims (?) that make the camber adjustable. But you're not supposed to need to adjust it. I would suspect a bent or broken housing.

top of tire is leaning out, noticeable if I look close enough, steering weaves, going to line up shop later in the week. I wanted to check sleeves and ball joints before I go. I also have caster wedges to add ,4 inch lift, 6 degrees.....looks like I need to pick up new center bolts.

Supposedly you can borrow an alignment gauge from Autozone and check the caster and camber yourself. I have not done gone this route - previously I would have suggested a trip to the tire store for a reading from the alignment machine. But maybe you can see where you are less expensively using the gauge.

I presume you've shaken the wheel, checking for slop in the ball joints. The open knuckle is way more durable than the older closed knuckle axle with kingpin bearings, but still something to consider.

Supposedly you can borrow an alignment gauge from Autozone and check the caster and camber yourself. I have not done gone this route - previously I would have suggested a trip to the tire store for a reading from the alignment machine. But maybe you can see where you are less expensively using the gauge.

I presume you've shaken the wheel, checking for slop in the ball joints. The open knuckle is way more durable than the older closed knuckle axle with kingpin bearings, but still something to consider.

Supposedly you can borrow an alignment gauge from Autozone and check the caster and camber yourself. I have not done gone this route - previously I would have suggested a trip to the tire store for a reading from the alignment machine. But maybe you can see where you are less expensively using the gauge.

I presume you've shaken the wheel, checking for slop in the ball joints. The open knuckle is way more durable than the older closed knuckle axle with kingpin bearings, but still something to consider.

I thought I would put in my 2 cents on this topic being that I actually have a little bit of knowledge because I am an alignment technician. What is most commonly used for straight axle vehicles with no factory adjustment is an offset upper ballpoint. Like stated in an earlier post you shouldn't really have to mess with it unless your jeep pulls or you are getting uneven tire wear.
I have seen brand new trucks and Jeeps with lower than 5,000 miles on them come through the shop that have terrible camber splits. Its a bummer, but sometimes that happens.
Personally I would take it somewhere so you can get a print out of what it looks like, then go from there.
Here is an image of the alignment on my CJ5. The numbers on it look OK, but in a perfect world I would like to see the left side camber at more like the -.02 that the right side is, however it dosen't pull and the tires are wearing evenly so I have no need to mess with it.
I hope this helps you some.

Cosmo shims, used them on my junk yard Dana 44 to correct the camber. As previous mentioned you’ll need to have your alignment checked to determine how much correction you need. The shims go between the spindle and the knuckle and are thicker at the bottom or top depending on the camber correction you need.