Princess seams nightmare - what am I doing wrong?

Hi all, I’ve posted some pictures in my “projects” folder, via the above link to try and show the problem I always seem to have.

Basically I match the top corners of each piece accurately and the bottom edges. I staystitch the straighter edge and cut little nicks in it where it needs to fit over the curved edge of the other piece, sew them together and then cut nicks in the curved piece too before ironing the seams open but the top edge never works correctly for me. It should have a nice smooth curve in the underarm area, but where the seams join there is always a giant ‘step’ as shown in the first 3 pictures (1 shows what it looks like from the right side with the seams both folded towards the centre, 2 shows when seams ironed open, 3 = from the wrong side to show that the top corners meet together and 4-5 show how I can only get it to work if I shift one of the pieces higher before sewing so that the corners don’t meet exactly). What on earth am I doing wrong? I’ve watched so many ‘how to’ videos but I must be missing something!

One did mention about matching the ‘bust markings’ too before sewing but the pattern pieces I’ve used have never had bust markings and the ‘how to’ didn’t say where exactly you mark them if I wanted to :-( It’s getting me sooo frustrated!

I have just made a garment with princess seaming . This is a common problem and your last picture looks correct – that yes indeed it seems when matching pieces that you have to “drop” one seam – but actually just look at the tissue paper pieces and lay one across the other to form the princess seam and you will see what I mean . Sorry it is difficult to explain. If you require extra help then others may explain it better.

Mostly, what you have to remember is that you need to match up the seams, not the edge of the seam allowance. When you match up the edge of the seam allowances, you will get the step. If you shift one of the pieces higher, then you will not get the step, because you are lining up the seam. unless you are sewing a rectangle, generally you do not want to match the corners. Always match the seam locations!!

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Yes- I eventually said to myself – it;s the top of the seam line that matches. Sorry at the time I couldn’t express myself very well, but hoped it would be clear when you put the tissue pattern together.

Principally, what you may need to keep in your mind is that you ought to match upwards the seams, not the edge of the seam allocation. When you match up the edge of the seam allowances, you will get the move. If or when just in case you move amidst the components higher, then possibilities are you simply will not get the move, since you may be really coating upwards the seam. should you decide do not are sewing a rectangle, normally you will be doing not love to match the corners. Constantly match the seam locations!!

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