There's a new republic established right here in Ventura County. It's called Republic of Barbecue, and it has set up shop in Oxnard. The space in Lemon Grove Plaza off Oxnard Boulevard was formerly occupied by Mariscos La Sirenita, a Mexican restaurant with an emphasis on seafood. The same owners achieved the turnaround, according to our server, and have followed their palates to a slightly unusual barbecue menu, with surprises but still a taste for Mexican touches. The look of the restaurant doesn't seem to have changed much, with its handsome dark Mexican tile flooring and seating accommodations in the same color scheme.

The cover statement on Republic's menu traces barbecue traditions from the past and the varying influences they had in America, and particularly California. The preparation they've chosen is that of smoked meats finished on a grill, which works well with most of the meats, but not all. Best of all is the fact that they're providing lots of fun through their innovative accents.

The lunch menu inserted into the slightly longer all-around version concentrates on burgers, salads and other sandwiches. But on the extended menu with its starters and sides, the Telegraph Wheat Ale steamed clams with tomato and bacon ($9.95) stood out immediately. Its composition reminded us that Republic also pours craft beers, on tap or by the bottle. My friend is a big fan of steamed clams, while I'm less of one. But having sampled Republic's, if anyone offers me the dish with the jolly house-concocted broth, I'd have it again any time.

If someone had told me I'd be ordering a hot dog at a barbecue spot, I wouldn't have believed it. But when I saw the Sonoran-style hot dog on the menu, I fell for it: a bacon-wrapped, big beef dog on a toasted bolillo roll topped with black beans, lots of fresh guacamole, grated Jack cheese, tomato, salsa verde and the house Tapatio mayo. It sounded like a dog whose time had come, and was as delicious as it sounded, though it required a knife and fork for eating in order not to lose most of the goodies onto the plate. It comes with a choice of french fries, house mashed potatoes or slaw. I took the fries, which filled the rest of the plate and were just right, light and crisp with a dash of sprinkled spice and not in the least bit oily.

Our ever-helpful server pointed out the half sandwich-small salad option ($8.25) on the lunch menu, so our other entree was half an Angus tri-tip sandwich with the salad. Both were amply proportioned, with the green salad fresh and tastily tossed with a white balsamic vinaigrette. The tri-tip itself just didn't taste like the tri-tip we've come to love, Santa Maria-style, straight from the fiery grill. It was, however, tender.

To try a bit more of Republic's bounty, we also ordered to-go a "lite" rack of the BBQ St. Louis pork back ribs ($17.95). The ribs were outstanding, even warmed up at home. There was just enough of a fine-quality barbecue sauce brushed over the meaty ribs. For a change of pace, we chose as sides the mashed potatoes, creamy and showing every sign of being freshly mashed, and the coleslaw, which had plenty of shredded cabbage and carrots, but was puzzlingly low on flavor. Maybe someone forgot to add the seasonings.

Also brought to the table as a complimentary taste-tempter were a pair of light-textured muffins made with fresh corn and mild peppers, an impressive treat.

After also trying the apple tart a la mode for dessert, we wondered if the same baker had a hand in the muffins. A staff member had dropped by and asked how we liked the pleasantly cinnamon-infused tart, and I laughed and asked if he had made them. Oh no, he replied, a woman comes in every day and makes the tarts and bread pudding.

Other items on the menu, which is likely still in flux, are Carolina pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches; Mexican "street" corn; sauteed New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp; and cornmeal-crusted catfish.

It's clear that the new Republic takes a hands-on approach to some specialties and desserts, and that's a welcome state of affairs. They also make an amusing declaration on the menu cover, that Republic of Barbecue stands up for "truth, justice and deliciousness."

Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her food. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.