Just an update. Trans has been very reliable. I found that I had goofed up the &quot;top hat&quot; seal on the tv cable and it was smashed off to the side and the fluid just ran out. Got a new one
(OK, an old used one off one of my spare transmissions). Replaced the goofed up one and hasn't leaked since.

I've been driving it back n forth to work. It has a somewhat business between 2-3 at light throttle and at 3-4 at light throttle. If you apply more throttle it goes. I have been trying to read up on it and doesn't seem to be only me experiencing it. I will post more when I learn more.

Still shifts very crisp at light to mid throttle and will punish the tires at WOT. I am extremely excited that it worked and even more so that it is still going. It is the longest lasting 2004r the car has even had in it and this includes seven that area dealers put together when the car was new.

Don't have any new pix but so far trans has worked pretty well. Had a hanging tv valve issue I think as it was trying to do second gear starts. So we disconnected tv able at throttle body and gave it several(ok, many) sharp pulls to try to clear any debris that might have made its way there and caused the valve to stick. Seems to have worked so far. I do have a torrential leak. Not right a away, but as the car sits after a drive and the converter drains back to the pan, It has a nasty leak somewhere. I haven't gotten to the bottom yet but will as I don't want a giant trans fluid stain where I park the car.

Pressures we got.

It has seen more than a few miles, and a lot of them were hard street and track outings. It has been a great ride.

Well, we are making more progress on our trans overhaul. I read on more than one occasion that proper pressure and pressure rise with tv cable activation is critical for trans life. I want it to live so we bought a gauge setup pictures above so we could monitor the pressures.

We got the trans stabbed in. As the trans we took out was a 700r4 we removed the adapter plate, adapter on the crossmember and a different drive shaft. I got a used stock drive shaft and some new ujoints. Got all that put together and filled it with fluid. As we had it up on the stands we ran it through the gears and did some testing with the gauge setup. I was pleased with the results.

We took it for a test run but couldn't get a good 1-2 shift as it was hanging until about 35mph. We dropped the pan and governor and put it back to stock. This produced silk like shifts at light throttle and tire punishing shifts with additional pedal . I was advised on another forum that if we needed more rpm/speed for the 1-2 we could remove the light spring on the large weight. Might try that but am quite pleased as it is.
We also went through the gears and were running around 35-40mph, going to full throttle we got a down shift to first. This is very cool.

We assembled the pump using hardened rings and a stiffer slide spring, but stayed with the stock seven vane setup. Once we had it together we put it in with out the rubber but used the gasket and measured the input clearance. This involved a dial indicator and associated fixture. Ended up needing a thicker washer. This was ordered and installed to get the input clearance in spec.

Then we moved on to the valve Body. We are using the AA unit that came wiht the core. We pulled it apart and cleaned the pieces. We worked on the tv valve by swapping in some different, stiffer springs I picked up at my local hardware. I also swapped in a 700r4 retrun spring into the lie bias valve, and used the line bias spring in the vb accumulator bore. This stiffens each of these areas.

We were able to get the lower section play down to an acceptable level by using different thrust washers and a thicker selective washer. We soaked the low/rev clutches and installed them into the case. We put the low'rev piston in using the low/rev tool and then the bevel split ring to secure it. As stated in the manual the bevel faces the front of the trans. Then the sun shell, planetary and the bearing, selective and ring to secure it to the shaft. Use some trans jell to seure the thrust washer to the back of the sun shell.

This takes us to to another selective thrust piece. Manual states to start with the #10. I ended up tearing it back down twice first time with the #13 and then with the #15 to get the clearance down. Make sure the out put is tight up and the rest installed to get a good measurement. This includes getting the direct and forward drums in and seated correctly. And the center support in there. And pulling it back out if the clearance isn't right. I used the depth setup on a dial caliper to measure.

After you get that where you want it you can put the over drive piston and clutches in. I am using the stock four steel and two clutch arrangement, but there is a mod to cut the piston down .070-.080 to fit another clutch in between the middle steels to theoretically add 50% more capacity to the over drive setup.

then comes the pump. There is a selective washer on the back of the stator support that you can use trans jell to keep it in place when installing. This brings me to where I am. I need to measure the clearance on the input.