I actually just went there again. Brought in my valve cover for welding. -12AN bung driver side, weld shut passenger side, $60 and should be done today

Stupid, stupid, stupid idea. I am having my VC welded up and I am getting 2 -10an fittings on the driver side and 1 -10an fitting on the passenger side. I am also getting new baffle plates welded in like the picture in my build thread.

Stupid, stupid, stupid idea. I am having my VC welded up and I am getting 2 -10an fittings on the driver side and 1 -10an fitting on the passenger side. I am also getting new baffle plates welded in like the picture in my build thread.

I got my VC back already and they welded the -12AN bung from the inside. Because of that, the stock baffle "edge" is now missing a piece. I could probably seal it up with RTV just fine but not sure what to do.

Suggestions? Could also go back and ask them to "fill" that spot up and grind it back to same height as edges around.

I got my VC back already and they welded the -12AN bung from the inside. Because of that, the stock baffle "edge" is now missing a piece. I could probably seal it up with RTV just fine but not sure what to do.

Suggestions? Could also go back and ask them to "fill" that spot up and grind it back to same height as edges around.

I am not planning on running the stock baffles. I am actually going to be heading up to the shop in a little bit to talk to them about it more. The welder is not sure how exactly he is going to do it.

I would at a minimum have them add in welds and grind down. I do not think you could get that to seal now even with lots of RTV.

Lars prepare to weep tears of joy for I shall type this like I know the meaning of a shift key.

OK my opinion is as follows.

The mini baffles Lars posted are ideal. I think that the factory baffles will have higher pressure because of all the baffling. Swiss cheese valve covers are also ideal. Honda/Evo/DSM boost R&D has proven that.

Lenny, if you go with the single -12, I think you will be OK. If you are going to use the factory baffle though, make sure you:

a) drill out the tiny hole

b) make sure the baffle plate seals flushly to the baffle. That means yes, that weld goober needs to be filled and ground down. And yes, seal the plate with RTV and make sure you let it dry before you run the car.

The only reason why I am not running a -12 on BOTH sides of my valve cover is because I am using the slashcut. It would be a real bitch to run the -12 line from the passenger side as well. There just isn't that much room and a -12 line is recalcitrant.

I tried to cancel the ignition wire order but was too late and it arrived today.
1) just as Lars said, they go all the way in but don't sit tight in the hole
2) 12" is pretty long. 8-10" would be a good size if coils sit above the fuel rail

Coil/stock bracket/wiring will arrive Friday so I'll probably ghetto-wire it and plan my bracket. I want to keep all wires same length and re-use as much of the stock bracket as possible.