Shocks, shocks.
Im asking becose I have same problem on my Honda, short working stroke on rear. I want to make some sort of scrambler out of her and cant think of some rear shocks with corresponding stroke (longer than hers original 112mm).
I need an idea.

I only saw original FT500 shocks. I don't know if longer shocks are going to work, the chain already sits close to the slider on the swing arm. Maybe some rollers would take care of it, but the idea was to simplify and add lightness, not to complicate and add junk ;)

New control panel. From the top left: Hi/Lo beam switch, master lights switch, key hole and ignition switch.

That's my new key. I picked up the idea from Corpses From Hell MB blog I think.

It doesn't open the tank tho.

I'm still waiting for the handlebars switches to arrive, so in the mean time I have no horn and have to hot wire it to start it up. Tomorrow I'll replace the clutch cable and hit the dirt.

Brilliant! I did something very similar when I needed to have a tether to compete in vintage snowmobile drags:

Unplugging it actually completes the circuit - which essentially turns on the kill switch. So, with the tether out, the kill switch works like stock. If you put the tether in and flip the kill switch off of run, the sled will die as soon as the tether is pulled.

If I hooked the wire to the other terminal, plugging it in would turn the circuit on. Never thought to use it as an ignition key. Pretty cool idea.

I only saw original FT500 shocks. I don't know if longer shocks are going to work, the chain already sits close to the slider on the swing arm. Maybe some rollers would take care of it, but the idea was to simplify and add lightness, not to complicate and add junk ;)

Shocks arrived last week, but the bike is still under a feet of snow and it's -7*C outside.

But I managed to get the seat off and took it apart:

I ordered new cover material, it's due to arrive on Monday. I'm going to make new upholstery (don't ask me how, I worry about that later;) I'll be reshaping the foam as well since the seat is to low for my liking.

First the seat pan needs some adjustments. Since all plastic body panels didn't last too long (I took them off once I saw them and newer put them back) the seat doesn't quite match the frame. I mean it looks fine, but it's not what I want. There are 2-4cm gaps on the sides and the rear end goes up and leaves a gaping hole above the fender.

First goal was to flatten the rear. I pulled out a hacksaw and heat gun, and went to work:

X2! I'm really interested in finding out more about those shocks. Mine are shot on my FT500.

I traded a kayak for a non-running (sat for six years) FT500 last weekend and have been wrenching on it everyday since. I got it running in short order, fixed a the broken clutch cable and lever, did the recommended cleaning on the starter solenoid (needed it badly), replaced the fork fluid (made a huge improvement), adjusted the valves, and now I runs like a champ. Remaining " problems include a class 1 oil leak around a cylinder block bolt, and the afforemention shocks.

This bike thread is a tempting inspiration for how I want to proceed with my build. My motor doesn't smoke and starts easily even in sub-20 degree weather (Fahrenheit), so the engine appears to be in great shape with 14k miles on it. It has some cosmetic flaws (dings in tank and cracked side cover) but would otherwise be a candidate for restoration...

That said, I plan to put some dual sport or knobby tires on it and ride the piss out of it. The FT500 is well-built and dependable (if you maintain the starter) and extremely easy to work on and modify. I really like the spirit of what the OP doing with his bike, and given that I already have zero $$$ invested in the acquisition of my bike, I think it might be a great amount of fun to build along the same direction as the OP put it, a rambler/scrambler/tracker kinda thing...

__________________I don't do it slow and I don't do it fast, I do it HALF-FAST!

I'm using original seat pan as a base, although this is not one of those modifications that you can just reverse and get back to the factory spec. First I cut the sides off so now the edge follows the frame horizontally. Also cut the foam and prepared it to rise the front side. After that's done my arse will be riding at the same height as the pillion's. To fill the vertical gap between the seat pan and the frame I'll use fiber glass. But before it's done I think I'll need to buy a welder and rework the rear end of the frame, make a loop etc.

I always had a problem with documenting my garage adventures. When I make pictures, I take it seriously, meaning I have to concentrate a lot. And when I'm in the middle of a havoc, running around with hammers like a tasmanian devil, it's even harder to concentrate. But today I took the challenge. Here's what happened:

I got the cheapest stand alone rollgas I could lay my hands on. I thought it's so simple nobody can fuck this up.

What a surprise, the cable was way to short to attach it to the carb. Had to do it the Mongolian way.

Deciphering the spaghetti.

Slowly getting a hang of it all.

Every time I looked at all the cables and wiring diagrams in all my bikes I was wandering if it really has to be so complicated. This time I had an opportunity to check it. The plan was to get rid of the blinkers, move the ignition and light switches to the back, leaving only horn, starter and brake light switch on the handlebars. After a couple of hours of reading the diagram, cutting, soldering, more reading, cutting, blowing the main fuse, making a new wire fuse, more soldering and reading and cutting I finally made it! I got rid of all the connectors and unnecessary cables from the front and moved the switches and fuse box under the seat.

New control panel. From the top left: Hi/Lo beam switch, master lights switch, key hole and ignition switch.

That's my new key. I picked up the idea from Corpses From Hell MB blog I think.

It doesn't open the tank tho.

I'm still waiting for the handlebars switches to arrive, so in the mean time I have no horn and have to hot wire it to start it up. Tomorrow I'll replace the clutch cable and hit the dirt.

Nice to see an FT still working. Your headsteady brackets are from a Honda CB250RS (I run two of them, both dualsport converted). Keep up the good work.

I the meantime I ordered the cheapest MIG welder the money could buy, it was like 180 EUR. Should arrive next week. I also got in touch with RedHotChiliCustoms from Szczecin. They'll help me with fabrication of the rear frame loop. When I got it I will be able to finish the seat, which means I can ride the bike again! :)

I still need to change both wheel bearings, cause the wheel has like 5mm play when I shake it with my hands. Can be really sketchy when you ride it, believe me. If there's enough cash in the jar I'll by a TKC80 for the front and maybe even powder coat the rims. The spray can stuff doesn't stick to alloy rims, who would have thought :P