If diamonds are a girl’s best friend, then there’s a really good chance that every woman has a favorite diamond cut. From round brilliant cuts to the elegant Asscher, there is a diamond cut and shape for everyone. While the diamond consumer often refers to a diamond’s shape as its cut, it’s important to note that jewelers make a distinction between diamond cuts and diamond shapes. According to the industry, “cut” refers to the proportion and number of facets placed on the surface of the stone. These facets, and the precision with which they are placed, account for the brilliance and “fire” of the stone. The determination of how to facet a stone is up to the discretion of the cutter; generally, when a diamond is cut to reveal the most fire and brilliance, more material has to be removed and size may be sacrificed. When a diamond is cut for size, brilliance may be sacrificed. Often, the diamond consumer is more interested in the shape of the diamond than in the cut, although both are equally important and are inextricably linked.

It is always advisable to buy certified diamonds from a reputable jeweler who can tell you all you want to know about a diamond’s cut. A certification, issued by an independent, accredited organization (such as the Gemological Institute of America) is a detailed report of the specific diamond you are buying. It includes information on the shape, color, clarity, weight (carat), a plot of the stone’s inclusions and information about the cut.

There was a time long ago when diamonds were limited to round, square, oval or pear cuts.

Cushion, trillion, heart and princess cuts were not being produced or were so rare and exotic they were only attainable by very few. Today, technology has the ability to unlock the beauty and sparkle of the diamond and provide women with a variety of diamond cuts that are sure to appeal. Please note that, for the purposes of this article, the terms diamond shape and diamond cut are used interchangeably – except when discussing specific definitions.

The History of Faceted DiamondsThe history of diamond cuts is a relatively new one. The first diamonds were found in India around 800 B.C. and were appreciated in their natural form. In fact, it was considered bad luck to cut a diamond – a superstition that was probably borne more out of necessity than of belief. The reluctance to cut the stones lingered well into the 13th century, when technology finally provided the tools to cut and polish diamonds. The earliest cut, however, didn’t bring out the diamond’s brilliance with the same faceting that we’ve come to recognize today; colored gemstones were also the popular stones of the time. It wasn’t until the mid-15th century that a Flemish stone polisher named Van Berquem conceived of absolute symmetry regarding placement of the stone’s facets, resulting in the briolette cut that is enjoying a resurgence in popularity today (especially for colored semi-precious stones). Lathes and saws were invented in the early 1900s and enabled diamond cutters to include 58 facets on a round brilliant to showcase the diamond’s fire to its most sparkling advantage.

Diamond ShapesA diamond’s shape is probably the first thing one notices when looking at the stone. According to jewelry experts, there are eight principally recognized shapes, including: round, pear, emerald, princess, marquise, radiant, oval and heart. There are variations among these basic shapes, including the Asscher cut and the baguette. By far, the most popular shape has and continues to be the round brilliant, the name of which refers to both the shape and the cut of the stone. Brilliants have 58 carefully placed facets to bring out the stone’s fire. Because of the reflection of light on the facets, a smaller stone can appear to be bigger than its carat weight; this enables the consumer to get a better diamond presence while purchasing a smaller stone at a more affordable price. Other shapes that fall into the “brilliant” category are oval, heart, marquise and pear cuts. The step-cut, which includes emeralds and baguettes, is reminiscent of a staircase. These shapes are usually reserved for diamonds with the fewest inclusions, as the inclusions may become more apparent when a stone is cut in this manner. Mixed-cut diamonds, such as radiant or princess cut stones, combine step and brilliant cutting to achieve the elegance of the emerald diamond cut and the sparkle of a brilliant stone. The diamond industry constantly seeks new cuts that improve upon the inherent beauty of the diamond. The Asscher cut, introduced in Holland in 1902, is a stepped square cut with cropped corners. It is an elegant shape with excellent fire and sparkle.

Until recently, it was extremely difficult to find an Asscher cut diamond, but demand for it has soared and many jewelers now carry Asscher cut stones. In 1999, Tiffany & Co. introduced the “Lucida,” a square-cut diamond featuring wide corners and a high, step-cut crown. The “Leo Diamond,” marketed through the Kay Jeweler chain, is another new cut. A round stone, its features include 66 facets to maximize the stone’s scintillation – the amount of light that is reflected. There are several factors that should be considered when deciding on a diamond shape, the first is personal taste. Although there are no hard and fast rules, it’s been said that round brilliants appeal to the traditionalist while a heart-shaped diamond appeals to the most romantic among us. Whether or not these stereotypes are true, the shape and size of your particular hand and fingers is the key determinant when choosing a diamond shape. Generally, a tapered shape such as a pear or marquise elongates the finger and hand. The opposite is true for a rectangular cut such as an emerald or cushion, which might look best on longer fingers.

Diamond CutsA diamond’s cut (its proportions) reveals the stone’s clarity, fire and brilliance. A diamond is cut to maximize its interaction with light in order to reflect it back in a prism that gives life to the stone. A stone that is cut too shallow will lose light from the bottom and make the stone appear dull and lifeless.

A stone cut too deeply will lose light through its sides, making it seem as if the stone has dark spots. The play of light is all-important to the diamond cut. Facets should be symmetrical and placed in such a way to get the most scintillation. The industry distinguishes between standard and ideal diamond cuts. Without getting too technical, an ideal cut maximizes a stone’s quality while a standard cut maximizes its size. The former cut is generally more expensive.

Diamond TrendsDiamonds may be forever, but diamond trends come and go. Right now, pear shapes are experiencing a revival as the choice for engagement rings. The style had been out of favor with the buying public for the past several years and is now increasing in popularity. Ovals, which offer the same radiance and fire of a round, linger at the bottom of the popularity scale. The demand is increasing for rectangular stones such as the Asscher, emerald and princess cut , but nothing comes close to the clamor for the round brilliant.

Whatever your preference for a diamond’s cut and shape, do your homework before you buy and make sure to purchase your stone from a reputable dealer. Diamonds are indeed a girl’s best friend, and we’re sure you’ll find a diamond cut that reflects your ideal stone to provide a lifetime of happiness.

Are You Ready For Your Engagement Party?You told the man of your dreams you would share his life, and have announced it to the world, but before you get too involved in preparing for the wedding, take some time to plan an engagement party. Engagement parties are a chance for your friends and relatives to congratulate you and ask you questions about the wedding. How ready are you for your engagement party?