There was the spanking new location, Alice Tully Hall; the first-time host who ribbed the oh-so-serious fashion crowd, Tracey Ullman, and a nod to the next generation with winners like Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy for women’s wear, Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg and Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli for men’s wear, and Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for accessories.

Where past awards have dragged on, this year’s theater-style ceremony and buffet dinner kept the night mercifully brief, ameliorated by hostess Diane von Furstenberg, the Council of Fashion Designers of America president, who started asking people to take their seats in the auditorium practically the minute they arrived. Ullman echoed her friend’s sentiment.

“Let’s get on with the show,” the comedienne told the crowd in her welcoming remarks. “It’s time, because I can see Kiefer Sutherland flexing the muscles in the back of his neck. Brooke Shields is trying to hold him back, but he’s a strong lad.”

Ullman’s shtick was hit and miss, with the occasional lack of laughs proving again that fashion is one tough crowd. Some of the loudest applause went to her praise for Michelle Obama, who was honored with the Board of Directors’ Special Tribute, but sent her thanks via a taped video. Desirée Rogers, who was scheduled to accept on the First Lady’s behalf, was also a no-show.

Ullman didn’t totally fawn over the First Lady, though. “In the short time her husband has been in office, she has already done a tremendous amount to promote the American fashion designers, especially J. Crew,” Ullman crowed. “Is J. here tonight? Mr. Crew? How about Mrs. Crew? Any of the Crew kids? Oh come on, you’d think that they’d be here tonight to show support for J.”

Ullman also had some thoughts on Marc Jacobs, who took home the International Award for his work at Louis Vuitton, but went empty-handed in the women’s wear and accessories categories. “Every year, no matter what, Marc ends up a winner,” she said. “Something’s not right. He’s the Bernie Madoff of fashion. I think you should have a CFDA permanently tattooed on your arm, Marc.”

And it wouldn’t be 2009 without some commentary on the recession. “The bad news is the Russians have stopped buying,” Ullman offered. “The good news is that that’s mostly bad news for Versace.”

Ralph Lauren, too, had some good news: He took home the CFDA’s first-ever award for popular vote. “Wow, there’s nothing much to say except, I’m going to dance for you now,” Lauren said. “I really thank the public and I guess it was worth 42 years. You finally got the message.”

If there was ever a complaint that previous award ceremonies didn’t feature any live fashion, it was put to rest Monday. In addition to the tower of models dressed in the nominees’ most current collections that greeted guests as they arrived, there were live presentations for Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award recipient Anna Sui and the Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees. Sui, true to her runway, recruited catwalkers Sasha Pivovarova, Coco Rocha and Agyness Deyn, while fellow Detroit native Jack White presented her with the honor.

“We’re both obsessed with the beauty and inspiration of music, and we’re both, I think, inspired by multiple eras,” the White Stripes front man said, going on to give his definition of Sui’s timeless fashion: “It’s not emulation or re-creation or even false modernity. It is a beauty that can exist in any era — past, present, or future — and not suffer the wrath of novelty or fad.”

The videos for the nominees had their moments, with Eleanor Lambert Award winner Jim Moore of GQ recruiting a star-studded cast that included Jake Gyllenhaal and Tom Cruise for his; Graydon Carter spoofing Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire with various nominees, and Jacobs and LVMH chief Bernard Arnault trading compliments until Jacobs drew one of the biggest laughs of the night. Of Arnault he said: “You don’t get overpraised, but he’s like the farmer in that pig movie [“Babe”], and sometimes you’ll get a ‘That’ll do, pig.’”

Unfortunately, the evening’s winners had trouble e-mailing, texting or Twittering their good news due to the poor reception in the theater. So after winning Womenswear Designer of the Year, Laura Mulleavy went out to the lobby to call her mom. “She said she knew we would win,” Mulleavy said. “But she also thinks she’s psychic.”

Across town, Nicolas Cage, Audrey Marnay, Irina Lazareanu and Michelle Hicks gathered at Rose Bar to help Sui celebrate her prize. Meanwhile, the Mulleavys partied with Kirsten Dunst, McCollough and Hernandez, Daphne Guinness, Thakoon Panichgul, Alexander Wang and Dree Hemingway under the disco ball at The Ballroom at the Jane Hotel. Opening Ceremony and Black Frame hosted the bash at the new hot spot, which lasted well into the wee hours.

After the CFDA ceremony and a buffet dinner that went more or less untouched, Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli, Carey Mulligan, Donna Karan, Molly Sims and Lake Bell headed down to the High Line, where Calvin Klein Collection hosted a fete in honor of the Friends of the High Line’s opening summer benefit. Calvin Klein menswear designer Italo Zucchelli tied with Band of Outsiders for Menswear Designer of the Year. While some guests took advantage of the well-stocked and well-staffed bar, others plotted ways to get close to Bradley Cooper.

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Social Studies

Pro-Surfer Kelia Moniz and Hailey Bieber in pieces from their collaboration with Roxy, called Sister. ⁣
It’s an apt name for a four-season collection inspired by the pair’s friendship, which was evident as they did their rounds with press, sharing laughs as Baldwin passed a cell phone to Moniz to show her a series of text messages the two then giggled about.⁣
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“We’re friends, but we’re a lot more than that and I think the next step of that is basically sisters,” Moniz said. “I don’t have a sister so I feel like a lot of the girls in my life become sisters.”⁣
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Report: @karihamanaka
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BREAKING: Tom Ford has been elected chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.⁣
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WWD broke the news last week that Ford was in line to succeed Diane von Furstenberg, who has held the job for the past 13 years. Under von Furstenberg, along with Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, the organization has ushered in a period of unprecedented growth for American fashion, followed by the current period of volatility triggered by seismic changes within and outside of fashion.⁣
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Von Furstenberg had succeeded Stan Herman in 2006, who served in the role for 16 years.⁣
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Ford is the 11th person to hold the position (which had previously been titled president until it was upgraded to chairman for Furstenberg in 2015). The roster of presidents has included Herman, Sydney Wragge, Norman Norell, Oscar de la Renta, Herbert Kasper, Bill Blass, Mary McFadden, Perry Ellis and Carolyne Roehm.
Report: Lisa Lockwood
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Victoria's Secret swimwear is back. 👙
The brand eliminated its swimwear line in spring 2016 in an effort to focus on its core lingerie business. But shifting consumer tastes and a movement toward brands that promote inclusivity, such as American Eagle Outfitters’ Aerie, as well as start-ups like Adore Me and ThirdLove, have caused Victoria’s Secret to lose market share.
The move back into swimwear is an attempt to win back some of the lost market share in what had been a $525 million business for the retailer. Victoria’s Secret also said it was now selling swim accessories on its website, such as sunglasses.
Report: Kellie Ell
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Kate Hudson is a vision in red Oscar de la Renta. The actress turned athleisure guru won an award last night for Entrepreneur of the Year for her brand Fabletics.
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Twiggy, who was previously known as 'The Face of the 60s', has taken on another title. Yesterday, she was awarded the Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire, at Buckingham Palace for her services to fashion, the arts and charity. The former model wore a stylish white three-piece suit by Stella McCartney and a statement fascinator as she received the prestigious award from Prince Charles.
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Louis Vuitton, whose fall-winter 2019 men’s wear collection drew inspiration from Michael Jackson’s pop-culture legacy, has reacted swiftly to the mounting controversy in the wake of the “Leaving Neverland” documentary.
Virgil Abloh has commented on the Michael Jackson-inspired looks from his fall-winter 2019 for Louis Vuitton. “I am aware that in light of this documentary the show has caused emotional reactions. I strictly condemn any form of child abuse, violence or infringement against any human rights,” Virgil Abloh, men’s artistic director at Vuitton, said in a statement released exclusively to WWD.
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EXCLUSIVE: Tom Ford tapped as new chairman of the CFDA, sources say.
Tom Ford — chairman of the CFDA?
That’s the plan, according to sources, who say that Diane von Furstenberg is ready to step down from the post, with Ford poised to take over. Both the CFDA and Ford declined comment Wednesday.
The move would come after von Furstenberg’s legendary 13-year tenure during which, working with CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb, she oversaw a period of unprecedented, heady growth for American fashion and the organization itself, followed by the current period of volatility triggered by seismic cultural changes within and outside of fashion. The CFDA board is due to meet Tuesday to vote on Tom Ford's nomination as chairman of the association. Link in bio.
Report: Bridget Foley, @lisajlockwood .
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