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U-T food writers dish on the San Diego dining scene in their blog “Side Dish.” Check it out online at uniontrib.com/sidedish. You can also follow the food staff on Twitter, @sdutFood.

Fried chicken aficionados thinking of heading to the nearest KFC for a quick fix might reconsider. Believe it or not, it’s a Korean-style restaurant in Kearny Mesa that’s serving up a pretty darn seductive version of this American favorite.

Something of an odd hybrid, BBQ (that’s Best of the Best Quality) Torimaru features two very different menus, one featuring both fried and marinated grilled chicken and the other, traditional Korean fare. Where else could you get a basket of fried chicken with a side of mozzarella cheese sticks, plus kimchee and an order of spicy sea snails?

While Torimaru doesn’t advertise its chicken as Korean style, the BBQ worldwide chain that Torimaru is a part of is clearly capitalizing on the rising popularity of fried chicken as a trendy bar food in South Korea. Although started in Korea, the chain is based in New Jersey and has 3,500 outlets in 37 countries. Just seven are in California.

The apparent key to the delicate, crispy crunch of BBQ’s chicken is that it’s deep fried in filtered extra virgin olive oil. The result is a lighter, more ethereal crust and remarkably juicy meat.

Although prepared with a blend of 30 seasonings, the “original chicken” is fairly bland. Far more tasty were the Teri-Q gold wings, also deep fried, and while still hot, tossed in a slightly sweet, zesty teriyaki sauce. A coating of flour and rice powder gives the outside a chewier texture.

Paired with a cold draft beer (which is served with a small bowl of popcorn), it’s a pretty enticing indulgence. While the fried chicken seems a bit pricey, before you get your order, you’ll be served a selection of cold appetizers for free, including kimchee, sprouts, steamed broccoli, diced potato and dried squid. A bowl of pickled radish cubes makes for a welcome palate cleanser.

While the fried chicken is definitely the star attraction here, it’s worth sampling some of the traditional Korean menu items if you’re feeling a little adventuresome. The bulgogi, which consists of thin slices of beef marinated in soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and garlic, has a pleasant, sweet taste, although the meat did not taste as though it was a prime cut, as billed.

Bibimbap, a dish that combines white rice with an assortment of julienned vegetables and beef and is topped with a fried egg, seemed promising from the description, but the coldness of the vegetables was jarring when mixed with the warm rice.

From the outside, the restaurant, with its arched accents, looks as though it was a Mexican restaurant at one time. Inside, there are two flat-screen TVs, and suspended from the ceiling are oversized orange domed lights that look like they came straight out of “The Jetsons.”

No need, though, to dine in. If you’re simply interested in satisfying that fried chicken craving, call 15 minutes ahead and pick up your order at the drive-through window.

PINT OF THE WEEK: Matilda, Chicago (3 1/2 bottles)

BLESSINGS: Among the beer styles bequeathed to us by Trappist brewers is the Belgian blond, which tends to be spicy, earthy, sweet and dry. A classic example comes from the Abbaye de Notre-Dame d’Orval; Greg Hall, brewmaster at Goose Island, credits this beer with inspiring his rich brew.

COMPLEX, TOO: Matilda’s appeals are more than just visual. Even a sip will reveal depths of flavor. Caramel malts supply hints of toasted sweet rolls, partnering with traditional Belgian spice notes of coriander and, fainter, ginger. Peaches and pineapple float across the mid-palate, and the finish is dry and surprisingly warm – the 7 percent alcohol content is higher than your typical ale, but not that high.

MOVING IN: Matilda dates back to 2005, but it wasn’t until March that she was shipped west of the Mississippi. We paid $12.99 for a four-pack at the Whole Foods in Hillcrest. After drinking two bottles, we cellared the other pair; Hall maintains that this already glorious brew will gain character and beauty for five years.