hieronyma's travel reports

May your Hand never hurt, Iran 2012, Part 1

The Islamic Republic of Iran borders on Pakistan, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, Azerbeidschan, Armenia, Turkey, Irak, the Caspian Sea, the Persian Gulf, and the Gulf of Oman. Although a transit country between Asia and Europe it kept its identity.

Pasargade, Kyros II., Ruler over Land and Sea

The traveller, who drives through the nearly endless deserts, transits the forbidding mountain ranges of piled up rocks, gains the impression, that the country simply because of its geographical structure is in a position of defence, because the plateau of Central Iran, where all important towns have been founded, is cut off in all directions, even from its fertile areas at the Persian Gulf and the Caspian Sea. The urgent wish, to protect human life against the dangers of nature and climate, furthermore of isolation, created the idea of a garden, depicting paradise, a reflectance of life on earth. It substantiates the idea of social responsibility for one's neighbour, according to the rules of the Koran. This idea, older than the Islam (Kyros II. (550 BC) Pasargade), moulded the personality of the country, what doesn't mean that it always followed it. 5000 years of history taught the people to fight with inventiveness for their existence in an environment hostile to life. Still in use is the Qanat, what brought the water from the mountains over hundreds of kilometres by way of below-ground channels to towns in the desert and to the summer palaces, situated in rectangularly designed gardens with an ingenious irrigation system, promising coolness and recreation for everyone, then and now. By diplomacy and war for a coherent area to live in Persia finally stretched from Europe to India. Schapur I. in Bishapur, Kyros II. in Pasargade, Darius I. in Persepolis passed on the account of their power, its legitimation and their concept of rein to the present generation, who return to this idea of pre-islamic government, which expressed itself in the will to peace and religious tolerance. This presentation of power is readable the layout of the centre of towns. The minarets of their mosques pierce the sky. As a town sign visible over long distances they mark the religious as the nearby citadel and the bazaar the political and economic centre of power.

Favourite spots:

Esfahan, Meidan-e Imam, Ali-Qapu Palace by Night

Esfahan, „Half of the world“, has without doubt the most beautiful centre. Around the Meidan-e Imam group the superb monuments of the town: At the narrow side stands the Imam-Mosque with its turquoise cupolas, which not wanted to look towards Mekka, but an architectural trick convinced her to do so. Opposite in the rich bazaar the men drink their tea, the young couples meet in the secretive restaurants in the old baths. The Meidan has a rhythm, the traveller can't elude. Its composition follows the Golden Ratio, hence the Ali-Qapu Palace is situated in the first third of the courtyard on the left side with the view onto the Sheikh–Lotfollah-Mosque with its unique faïences just opposite. The use of language (Arabic) and script are not decoration, but mediation of religious faith, Form and content are inseparable. In the background the traveller recognizes the dignified, centuries-old Jame-Mosque, present-day decoration are the mosaics of Khomenie and Khamenei in the Seljuk part.

What's really great:

Maradegh to Takab, Farmhouse, Time to rest

The plateau of Central Iran presented itself in the quiet colours of autumn. Here and there one green tree stood as if lost in the wide landscape. Small farms are situated in depressions, surrounded by protecting walls, safeguard against the dangers outside the fixed place of residence. Life is transferred inside. The private sphere, especially women and children, are subject to special protection since times immemorial. Life is slow in the countryside. The harvest had been brought in. The haystacks for sale and for use in winter were already packed on the roofs of the old houses, built with clay bricks. The fields, which the farmers only can work with the machines of the association of farmers, were prepared for the winter. Sheep and goats crossed unperturbedly the highways. Traffic control on the thoroughfares, but also on the rural roads surprised the traveller. In villages and towns the many building sites caught his eye. Construction workers were missing because of inflation.

The gardens are worth seeing, all of them have a special character. The best time might be springtime, but even in autumn they are charming: The cascades in Baq-e Schazdeh, the Prince Garden, situated in the desert like a green island,seems to be from another world. The inner courtyard of the mausoleum of the mystique Sheikh Nematollah Vali, depicting the seven steps of knowledge (Mahan), invites to think about life and its essence. In the Fin Gardens (Kashan) The Hasht–Behesht–Palace, the Eight-Skies-Palace or Harem Palace, whose ground plan like all its rooms is octagonal, initiates dreams. The Tschehl Sotun, the palace of the forty columns, of whom there are only twenty, mirrored in a water basin they become forty columns (Isfahan), is very sophisticated. But the Dowlatabad Garden with its windtower is the precious one (Yazd). - Esfahan: Visit the Manar Jomban (Shaking Minarets) of the tomb of a dervish (14th c.) and in Tabriz the very good Azarbayjan Museum.

“Nightlife”: Anzali, it seems that on a friday evening, when it is still warm, the town people gather in the harbour for a picknick or to have a cup of a special tea in the small park. Shops are open until midnight.

Hangouts:

Esfahan, Bazar-e Bozorg, at Night

No recommodation: I either didn't find some or they are simply missing.

Restaurants:

Yazd, Dowlatabad Garden, Men's Talk, Women's Talk

The food in the hotels was quite good. I also ate very good in small retaurants alongside the road. You'll find in the bazaar nice restaurants with good food. Esfahan: Drink a hot chocolate in the 5 stars Abbasi Hotel, a former king's carawansary (18th c.). Tehran: Museum of Contemporary Art, Café: In this quiet and civilized place you should have a mocca with a piece of chocolate cake, it's a treat, and pay ca. 4.00 Euro.

Other recommendations:

Tabriz, Garden of the Blue Mosque

It might be advisable to register with the German Ambassy in Teheran. - The scarf is mandantory, but a hood is accepted. Face and hair are often not totally covered and allow different designs and colours. The chador is not mandatory, except in certain mosques. But still the black women determine in many places the street picture. The law demands, that a woman should be covered down to the half of her thighs. That allows variations, for example the chador in muted colours, textured, coats of different lengths. I saw less bright colour. Inconspicuousness is the demand of the time. But the variations catches the eye. The protest is quiet and calm. - Tarof is originally an Arabic word and as a ver it means to introduce oneself In the Iranian culture it is a pecial form of politness. Be aware when you are invited it needs at least three repititions until you can be sure that it is an invitation.