Hair Colourants and Home Perms - UK - November 2013

“Although the market has seen notable innovation from 2012-13, driven by new formulas and easier application methods, health concerns remain an area of some contention in the media. Brands have a responsibility to their users to be more transparent about product content and facilitate easier allergy testing initiatives to alleviate negative publicity. In turn, this is likely to boost brand loyalty and usage of hair colourants, particularly by the more cautious colourer.”

– Lucy Cornford, Senior Beauty Analyst

Some questions answered in this report include:

How can hair colourant brands address rising concerns over chemicals?

How are changing attitudes towards grey hair likely to impact on the market?

What has been the most notable innovation in the last year, and how is it likely to affect the market long-term?

Can at-home colouration ever offer the same quality as in-salon?

Valued at £349 million in 2013, the hair colourants market has grown by 4.5% since 2012, with sales boosted by innovation in the category from some of the leading players. The market continues to be dominated by a handful of major companies, with limited activity from smaller brands or even own-label, as perpetual special offers on well-known brands command the most shopper attention.

Although most consumers buy into hair colourants in order to boost confidence and attractiveness, the issue of chemicals in such products is pressing. It is important that brands continue to push the importance of allergy testing, but without scaremongering, essentially coaxing users to test the product by making it easier or more cost-effective to do so. Content transparency is also important here: consumers need to be aware of all of the ingredients used in hair colourants, and not just a select few.

The growing acceptability of grey hair in society is also likely to be a challenge for the industry in the coming years, particularly in light of the ageing population, so creating initiatives to boost usage by ageing consumers is key. Rather than promoting hair colourants as a means to cover grey, more emphasis on softening the coarse texture of greying hair, or products to actively enhance greying shades, are most likely to encourage senior consumers to stay in the market for longer.

This report examines usage of hair colourants, attitudes towards using and buying hair colourants, and investigates key consumer typologies and the potential for further innovation in the market.

Products covered in this report:

Hair colourants and home perms

The hair colourants sector includes the following product categories:Permanents (do not wash out of hair)Semi-permanent (last approximately 24 washes)Temporary colourantsTone on tone hair colour (including restorers and removers)Perms and relaxers

Excluded:

Colour-enhancing shampoos (also known as colour glazes)

Hair cosmetics (eg Luscious Locks hi-lights hair mascara, The Glow Company UV Hair Mascara, TIGI Bedhead Wigged Out hair mascara) are excluded from market sizing, although these are discussed in the context of the report.

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Table of contents

Introduction

Products covered in this report

Hair colourants and home perms

Excluded

Abbreviations

Executive Summary

Value sales of hair colourants display renewed vigour

Figure 1: UK best and worst case forecast of UK retail sales of hair colourants and home perms, 2008-18

Market drivers

L’Oréal dominates NPD

Figure 2: New product launches, by top 5 ultimate companies, 2012

Home-use permanent treatments lose out to hair colourants

Figure 3: Frequency of use of at-home hair colourants or treatment products in last 12 months, September 2013

Young adults display a more emotional approach to hair colouring

Figure 4: Consumer attitudes towards hair colouring, September 2013

What we think

Issues in the Market

How can hair colourant brands address rising concerns over chemicals?

How are changing attitudes towards grey hair likely to impact on the market?

What has been the most notable innovation in the last year, and how is it likely to affect the market long-term?

Can at-home colouration ever offer the same quality as in-salon?

Trend Application

Trend: Help Me Help Myself

Trend: Make it Mine

Mintel Futures: Old Gold

Market Drivers

Key points

Age of population

Figure 5: Trends in the age structure of the UK population, by gender, 2008-18