Description

This crimpy number combines an intense crux with enduro jugs on some of the best stone in the country. The business is all about finger strength & pain tolerance with a few tough moves on brutal crimps, though a significant pump, and devious moves keep the outcome in doubt right up to the end.

Begin atop a flat boulder. Long cranks between incut holds leads to a good ledge & shake below the third bolt. Strenuous V6-ish cranks lead to another ledge and a great rest on a creaky & somewhat spooky black rail. Long moves on widening holds lead to a sequential pocket section, followed by more good rests, then a final right-ward traverse to the chains.

Location

2nd route from the left end of the cliff, immediately left of "Wild, Yet Tasty."

Protection

6 bolts. Considering the boulder, you may want to stick clip the 2nd bolt.