It’s a rare day that the top of Oita Prefecture’s Mount Yufu (or Yufudake) isn’t obscured by clouds, claims Lonely Planet’s “Hiking in Japan” guidebook. Luckily, our visit happens to coincide with one of those rare days — there is nothing but an unbroken ...

The guesthouse I was staying at in Kitsuki was named after the owner, a tough but warm-hearted example of Kyushu womanhood, someone who had learnt to stand her own ground on an island known for its almost theatrical levels of machismo.