Written by

Catherine Gundersen

Sure, times change, but to paraphrase Coco Chanel, style endures. Though these days people are more apt to wear pajamas on airplanes than their Sunday best, dressing up for dinner is still a wonderful thing to do — if you have something to celebrate, or even if you don’t. When a meal is more about a dining experience than eating food, there is etiquette to consider. When you’re dining in style, your attire should suit the place. Here are three worthy of the effort.

La Cremaillere, Bedford

The French country restaurant has been in business since 1947, though they’ve changed with the times. “We’ve had to modify the dress code as time has gone by,” says owner Robert Meyzen. Sometime in the ’70s they stopped requiring men to wear ties, and they used to have blue blazers to lend to diners if they happened to show up without a jacket. “If guests call to enquire, we let them know as gently as possible that jackets are preferred,” says Meyzen, “but we welcome everyone.” He draws the line at shorts, though. The French cuisine (roasted duck with pomegranate ginger sauce, cassolettes and crème brulees) along with a wine cellar that features more than 14,000 bottles will make you glad you wore your best.

The Arch, Brewster

“When you go to celebrate an anniversary or even just have a romantic dinner, you want a lovely dining experience, and you dress up,” says George Seitz, chef-owner of The Arch. The restaurant, which has been in operation since 1970, is a traditional French restaurant, but isn’t just for very special occasions — it’s not stuffy. “We never want guests to feel like they don’t know what they’re getting. Everything is straightforward — and the finest quality.” On the menu are such traditional dishes as coq au vin and roast duck, but Seitz is also quite proud of the sauteed Orange Roughy with Grapes and Citrus Julienne. “It’s special, but not fussy,” he says. Just like the dress code.

Details: 1292 Route 22, Brewster. 845-279-5011, archrestaurant.com

Xaviars at Piermont

Xaviars is intimate, just 40 seats, and that alone makes it special, and lends itself to dressing up, says chef-owner Peter X. Kelly. “We’re not talking ball gowns and tuxedos, but our clientele is generally not an underdressed crowd — people come here when the evening is centered around the dining experience,” he says. And then there are the table settings: crystal, silver, china. “I like to think the menu is a celebration in itself,” says Kelly. With dishes such as Chilled Asparagus Velouté lobster, creme fraiche and caviar, and Hudson Valley duck breast with sauteed baby bok choy and roasted pear miso puree, it’s easy to see why.