Terra / Bar Terra

1of 2Dry-aged New York strip steak at Bar Terra in St. Helena.Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

2of 2Interior of Terra Restaurant in St. Helena.Photo: John Storey / Special to the Chronicle

If you’re in the mood for a casual environment, head right into Bar Terra; if you want a more refined setting, go left to Terra. Three years ago Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani split up the dining rooms in the historic stone building they’ve run since 1988. At Terra, Sone creates composed plates that might include sauteed abalone with escargot butter sauce, seaweed and king trumpet mushrooms as part of the set four- to six-course menu. While there’s a totally different a la carte menu at Bar Terra, diners can also order off the Terra menu, so it’s the best of both worlds. Many favorites from the original restaurant now reside on the more casual menu, including fried shrimp with chive-mustard sauce and tripe stew with butter beans. Sone also makes one of the best ramen soups around and also offers a “no gluten” menu.

Michael Bauer has been following the food and wine scene at the San Francisco Chronicle for more than 28 years. Before working at The Chronicle, he was a reporter and editor at the Kansas City Star and the Dallas Times Herald.