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Fudman

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Fudman, this is bem-ster, I took your advise on the right rear door lock assembly. I tried micro surgery with a Dremel tool first to no avail, finally bit the bullet and got her done with a cold chisel and hammer. Went after the plastic (weakest point) first, boom hit a corroded cam at the bottom of the mechanism and she opened right up. Did the R&R swap out and everything ended will. Miller Time, no damage to the door or car, but the assembly was totaled, as you can imagine. I'll try to post pics of the damaged lock assembly showing a way to access without reverting to the Hammer & Chisel method. A lot you can learn when you have a working lock and the mangled lock in front of you. I've already completed the job but the pictures could maybe help someone else. Thanks again.

Hey Fudman
This is Kingfish that problem I had a few months ago that we assumed was a vacuum leak.... in the end... it was the intake throttle position sensor, I replace the exhaust sensor at the same time. The steelership wanted over $600 buck to fix it. I did it myself for the price of the sensors, very easy job. Got a new problem, my pusher fan has bitten the dust, can't run the AC in town only on the highway. I can do the job, requires removal of the front bumper, I've r&r the front bumper, been there dont that. Unfortuntately the male/female connector is BAD. The new pusher has the male connector but I have to replace the female connector to the harness, the steelership wants to sell me the harness for a reasonable fee, yea right. Where can I find a female connector, I've tried several sources? It requires a 12 guage 3 prong connector but I would like to use the male on the new fan rather than cutting it to adapt. You have any suggestions? I also need an MAF sensor, I read somewhere that Ford uses a Bosch type on their trucks that interchanges with a BMW just don't let BMW find out about it. The steelership wants $390. The Ford truck version, which is suppose to be the same costs about $75. Does any of this sound to good to be true?

Hi Fudman, I hope you are enjoying your Easter. So let me see if I understand this. You are saying that Bank 1 is closer to the front of the vehicle (radiator) and that Bank 2 is closer to the rear of the vehicle (firewall). Do I understand that correctly? So cylinder 1 is closer to the front of the vehicle (radiator) and cylinder 6 is closer to the rear of the vehicle (firewall). Do I understand that correctly?

Hi Fudman,
I'm the guy with the 01 525i that had the vacuum leak. In the end it was 2 coils and intake position sensor, did it myself $200 parts. car runs fine unfortunately I keep getting that pesky CEL about every 60 miles. The latest and only code is
P0174 pointing to the Oxygen Sensors Bank 2. Question I have for you,.... is Bank 2 closer to the radiator or firewall? Is Bank 2 comprised of cylinders 1,2,3 or 4,5,6? Is the only difference between the Oxygen Sensors the length of Leadin Wire? And where is the location of the Post-Cat electrical conections? I'm going to do Bank 2 tomorrow and Bank 1 next month to keep the expenses down. I'm still concerned about a vacuum leak being I get a slite hissing sound when I first start up the car, but it goes away after warming up. The car drives and excellerates fine.

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