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Topic: Is this sport exploding or what? (Read 2692 times)

I was pretty amazed to see the hoards of climbers at this years Ice Fest. I'm not the oldest climber on the block, but to give some perspective, back when I started climbing, it was not unusual to find only one car parked at the base of Cathedral Ledge on a fine weekend. There were no guides when I started, and perhaps one climbing magazine.

The game has certainly changed in 50 years. I wonder where the sport will be 50 years from now? Will there be a gate-keeper at the base of the popular routes?

Wilcox and Cole "Shades of Blue" pre dated that one by a couple of years.The grades are Easy, moderate and Hard.

Yeah, the first "moderate" I did from that guide was Waterfall at Frankenstein. Straight wood shaft ice axe, crappy hammer and no wrist loops, and flexible crampons. A couple of crappy screws was all I got in and I crawled over the top in a panic all drenched in sweat.

Not a single other party at Frankenstein that weekend. I'm guessing that the new equipment might have something to do with the crowds.

" I'm guessing that the new equipment might have something to do with the crowds. "

No question about that--EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING-- wool knickers, or air force flight pants, wool sweaters and shirts, Dachstein mitts, Sierra Design 60/40 parka and wool balaclavas were a lot heavier, bulkier and more "manly" ( and a lot less waterproof or windproof, although once the knickers, parka and dachsteins were snow saturated and frozen stiff they were windproof )-- the funk while trying to dry out later in the Harvard Cabin or a bar was a rare delight that had to be experienced! Many of us also wore cotton T-necks under all that, even before LL was around to advise us! lol I wonder why there were so few women in the sport then!!

The biggest difference is the screws. Clothes are clothes, and I would still be as comfortable leading 5 with my Chacal and Hummingbird (or just about) as with my Prophets or any of the newer tools. Being able to stop on vertical ice and place a screw you know is bomber with one hand? Priceless.

If we could just go back to our old Chouinards and Snargs it would weed out all this riff raff in a hurry, and worth it, too. I'm pretty sure I still have one of those ratchets around here...

The biggest difference is the screws. Clothes are clothes, and I would still be as comfortable leading 5 with my Chacal and Hummingbird (or just about) as with my Prophets or any of the newer tools. Being able to stop on vertical ice and place a screw you know is bomber with one hand? Priceless.

If we could just go back to our old Chouinards and Snargs it would weed out all this riff raff in a hurry, and worth it, too. I'm pretty sure I still have one of those ratchets around here...

Damn I had a whole rack of those Chouinard's with the ratchet! And I use to carry a Yosemite hammer just to bang in snargs - get a starter hole and a couple whacks with that hammer and you were good to go! But what a PITA for the second to get out!

if i remember right,Bouchard did the Dike with a 70cm bamboo axe and an alpine hammer '71..and the lowe's ascent os Ames ice Hose (still grade 4 ) was similar stuff. in NH guys like Rainsford Rouner and Bryan Becker among many were WAY good in the 70's

That's why I still use them. Bitch at me about climbing slow and I'll find a crevice between two bulges, hammer that sucker in, and laugh like hell while you have to chop half a ton of ice away to screw it out. Don't f#ck with the old dog.