My driver, Mr. Edmond * and I search and search and search for some local or traditional Albanian fare along the main pedestrian promenade here in Shkodra (Shkodër). Finally we find an outdoor café and order, you guessed it, pizza. We also order a salad and a meatball dish that passes for “local” food.

Formed by a hydroelectric dam, the lake sits below the steep sides of the Treska Canyon. It’s an idyllic spot for a moderate hike along a narrow path above the tranquil lake.

After my hike, I returned to the outdoor restaurant that overlooks the lake. I lingered over a lunch of delicious fish soup with salmon and vegetables, and a green salad with sautéed mushrooms and grated cheese.

Lake Ohrid was my first stop after crossing the border from Albania to Macedonia. *

Here are a few facts about this unusual lake:

Lake Ohrid straddles the mountainous border between southwestern Macedonia and eastern Albania. It is one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes, preserving a unique aquatic ecosystem that is of worldwide importance, with more than 200 endemic species.

Sometimes I ask my driver to stop at what I consider to be a particularly lovely spot. For example, we find a quiet agricultural scene in the mountains and a lakeside retreat.

Occasionally my driver will insist on taking me to an important site. The ancient city of Apollonia is his choice today. The Greek columns are grand, of course, but I continue to be enthralled by the sculptures. How is it possible to convert a hunk of solid marble into a costume of diaphanous gauze?