Gourmella’s owner keeps busy

March 22, 2010

by Candice Varetoni

(Candice Varetoni)

Albany, NY- Gourmella’s Pizzeria and Deli has been a hot spot in the Pine Hills for many college students, families and city workers for 25 years. The proprietor, John Cusato runs the family owned Italian bistro in Albany.

John’s older brother runs the two other Cusato restaurants. One of them in Rotterdam and the other in Clifton Park. Cusato said “A lot of the city knows us, I pretty much do whatever anybody needs me to do.”

Gourmella’s has a friendly and personable relationship with many of its customers. One regular customer usually orders a wrap when she gets takeout.
” I usually choose the grilled chicken wrap and have John add as many fillings as he can squeeze in there,” said Casey Rogers. The price of a wrap starts at $6 and each additional topping runs an extra 50 cents. Gourmella’s burgers start at $3.50 and go to $6 for the “the Kiss of Death,” two burgers topped with American and Swiss cheese, sauteed mushrooms and onions.

Gourmella’s first opened on Madison Avenue about 34 years ago where the LionHeart is now. They moved next to the corner of Lark and Hudson to the current location of the Amazing Wok. Gourmella’s soon found its new home on the corner of Quail and Hudson, where the traffic seems to be constantly moving.

“It’s a booming environment all year, especially around the holidays,” Cusato said. Gourmella’s sells the most catering platters at Christmas time.

The catering menu has a variety of Italian dishes. Chicken marsala, chicken parm, chicken cacciatore and eggplant parm are just a few of the most popular trays. Large trays serve from 20 to 25 people and cost $40 to $65 for each tray. Small trays serve 10 to 15 people and cost between $25 and $35 each.

Gourmella’s is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. and is always busy, especially on the weekends. It was obvious because John didn’t have anytime to sit and get comfortable. Customers were in and out within minutes and the phone rang numerous times with clients placing orders for pick up.

“It’s like you’re eating a home cooked meal made by your mom, except they ask me what I want to eat. I eat here all the time,” said customer Sunil Ram, a regular customer who eats there twice a week.

In order for Cusato to live up to the quick and satisfying meals his industry demands he needs to be constantly on his feet.

John’s older brother Pete Cusato co-owns Savannah’s, the popular nightclub and bar downtown on South Pearl, but still finds time to come and help John out at the store. John said, “my brother’s business is thriving, he’s doing great, family owned business, it’ s all we know.”

Savannah’s nightclub has recently gone through renovation, which was all completed by the owners and the Cusato family. John said, “We were trying to save some money that way, that’s how all businesses get started. Got to save when you can.” Savannah’s will soon be renamed The Dublin Underground.

Through their businesses the Cusato’s have seen many different scenarios revolving around the pizza and deli industries. Whether it’s the economy tightening up or the rising price of ingredients John Cusato has stayed on top of it.

Over the years, he said, a lot has changed. “All our prices have gone up, our flour, our cheeses, our meats, our chicken products have gone up, they almost double in price sometimes,” he said. “We’re used to paying $30 for a case of chicken but now we’re paying $75. It takes a big chunk from our profit.”

(Candice Varetoni)

The prices of Gourmella’s items have changed a little but not too much. Drink prices will soon go up because of the new soda tax. Small businesses like Gourmella’s take a hit when soda prices increase. Even though Gourmella’s pricing has gone up, it hasn’t affected business. Rogers said “the soda tax wont change my mind on eating at Gourmella’s, I’ll get a water.”

On top of working all day at the restaurant, John helps his brother work Saturday nights at Savannah’s, checking identification at the door or anywhere else Pete may need him.

“I end up putting in a 22 hour day on Saturday it’s kind of rough,” said John Cusato.
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