The pickled river fish is easy to overlook on a menu that offers dishes like shrimp and grits, chicken cracklings, and raclette. The description doesn't help either: "Smoked trout with boiled egg, pickled onion, capers, avocado toast." It doesn't sound sexy, and you think, "I can make avocado toast at home." But when it arrives at the table, on a plate right out of granny's cupboard, you'll know you did the right thing.
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