Х Х Х Bistro U Pava (Bistro at the Peacock) French and Italian. This small and cozy spot serves an excellent grilled salmon that won't leave you looking for more. An international wine list complements a menu that also includes tournedos and rabbit filet, as well as a few pasta selections. Kremencova 13, Prague 1. Tel. 2491 2893. Open daily 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Major credit cards. 500-700 Kc.

Coffee Express Ideal for coffee to go. Espresso, cappuccino, macchiatto and iced coffees -- all of which can be made decaffeinated. Dlouha 39, Prague 1. No telephone. Open Mon.-Fri. 8-8, Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

Dobra Trafika A cafe, vinotheque and tobacconist's all in one. Poke through the used books or the selection of wines. Small snacks. Korunni 42, Prague 2-Vinohrady. No telephone. Open Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 2-11 p.m.

Ebel Coffee House A miracle: coffee of the highest quality in the heart of Old Town. Pure arabicas and custom coffee blends created just for Praguers. Tyn 2, Prague 1- Old Town. Open daily 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Tel. 2489 5788, e-mail: vvv@ebelcoffee.cz . DC, Euro/MC, Visa.

French Institute Cafe Frequented by Praguers and French people alike, including many students, for cheap coffee and croissants, French papers and magazines. Stepanska 35, Prague 1. Tel. 2421 6630. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

Grand Hotel Evropa Faded glory, to be sure, but still crammed to the balcony rails with turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau excesses. The most stylish old nook on Wenceslas Square. Vaclavske nam. 25, Prague 1. Tel 2422 8117. Open daily 9:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Cover may be charged for live music.

Juice House Ohmigawd. Have you heard? Fresh juices and smoothies in a shopper's paradise. The strawberry-banana accident is just awesome. Na prikope 3-5, Prague 1 (near metro Mustek). No telephone. Open daily 10-10. No credit cards.

Kavarna Slavia Legendary. The views across the river are unbeatable at Prague's most celebrated literary and theatrical cafe. Narodni at Smetanovo nabrezi., opposite the National Theater, Prague 1. Tel. 2422 0957. Open Mon.-Fri. 8 a.m.-midnight, Sat. and Sun. 9 a.m.-midnight.

Meduza Comfy old chairs in which to while away the hours, unusual prints on the walls, and a full range of coffees and teas, light meals and snacks attract a trendy clientele. Belgicka 17, Prague 2. Tel. 2251 5107. Open Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sat. and Sun. noon-1 a.m.

U mravence (At the Ant) An unexpectedly hip cafe with gallery space and good wine where you would least expect it -- on Old Town Square. Live music, snacks and excellent coffee. U Radnice 20, Prague 1. No telephone. Open daily 11 a.m.-midnight.

Bebop Bar Dive in for drinks before dinner at the Alcron or La Rotonde, or hang out late for live music. Perfect martinis. Stepanska 40, Prague 1 (at the Radisson SAS Alcron). Tel. 2282 0000. Open daily 10 a.m.-1 a.m.

Bugsy's Bar The old reliable. Shakes, stirs and tosses excellent cocktails. The drinks list is about the length of The Great Gatsby and nearly as pleasurable to read. Kostecna 2, Prague 1 (Old Town off Parizska). Tel. 232 9943. Open daily 7 p.m.-2 a.m.

Jama A lot like a North American college tavern. Filling food with influences from both hemispheres and good beers from south Bohemia on tap. Brunch served weekends until 5 p.m. V Jame 7, Prague 1 (off Vodickova). Tel. 2422 2383. Open daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m.

James Joyce A cozy and popular Irish pub. Czech, Irish and English beer, stout and ale are usually available. Liliova 10, Prague 1-Old Town (near Betlemske namesti). Tel. 2424 8793. Open daily 10:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m.

O'Che's Cuba has washed ashore in the Old Town, or at least a Guinness-addled dream of what Cuba would be like if it were run by Irish revolutionaries instead of Caribbean ones. Liliova 14, Prague 1. Tel. 2222 1178, fax: 2222 0027, e-mail: oche@volny.cz . Open daily 10 a.m.-midnight.

Restaurace Prince Not to be confused with the Old Town Square tourist trap of the same name. Fair food and good beer for the Namesti Bratri Synku neighborhood. Cestmirova 5, Prague 4- Nusle. No telephone. Open daily 11-11. (No restaurant service on Saturday and Sunday.)

U Dzberu (At the Bucket). Pub dishes updated to include ostrich carpaccio and "King Vaclav IV's cathedral," a dish of roast duck with apples. Less showy than a lot of places in the center, though no less cool. Stepanska 14, Prague 1. Tel. 9622 6801. Open daily 11-midnight. No credit cards.

U Maleho Glena (Little Glenn's) Jazz and assorted good times. Good place to meet and be met. Live music every night. Karmelitska 23, Prague 1-Mala Strana. Tel. 5753 8115. Open daily 10 a.m.-1 a.m.

Ziznivy pes (The Thirsty Dog) Nick Cave got so bummed out here he had to write a song about it. Everyone else appears to be having a good time. Elisky Krasnohorske 5, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 231 0039. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m.