Doing the Math on Ice Cream

Superpremium vs. regular ice cream makes all the difference when it comes to counting calories.

Once you've decided to treat yourself to a little ice cream, worrying about the calories you're about to consume is a good way to spoil the fun. Yet we all seem to do it to some degree, unless you're one of the fortunate few to be blessed with fast fat-metabolizing genes. In which case, don't bother reading any further.

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For the rest of us, here are a few considerations to help with the caloric math. Let's assume that you're committed to a scoop of premium, full-fat pleasure — because honestly, no "light" or sugar-free dairy desserts will satisfy:

Your choice of flavor doesn't make that much difference. The calorie count among different flavors doesn't vary as much as you might think (within the same brand and line, that is). Yes, certain ingredients will always tilt the scale more than others — nuts, chocolate, and cookie dough are major culprits — but don't expect to keep the cellulite away by simply opting for basic vanilla instead of butter pecan.

For example, when you enter a Cold Stone Creamery shop, which is a national franchise of 1,400 ice cream parlors, you'll be faced with 39 flavors. But whether you pick Black Cherry or Chocolate Cake Batter or Macadamia Nut doesn't matter that much because the calories fall within a fairly narrow range, between 310 to 380 calories per 5-ounce serving (which is the smallest "Like It" size). And most flavors hover right around 330 calories. Other brands have a wider spectrum, but even so, fussing over flavor isn't the best strategy for optimizing your calorie intake. If you're craving chocolate peanut butter ice cream, just go for it.

When brand does matter. Superpremium style ice cream packs in a lot more butterfat than traditional ice cream. It's all about density, or how much air gets churned into the mixture during freezing. The denser the ice cream, the smoother and richer the tasting experience.

Here's a tip: Next time you're mulling over the offerings in the supermarket's ice cream freezer, check the nutrition label on a container of Häagen-Dazs or Ben & Jerry's (which are superpremium) and Turkey Hill or Breyer's (which are traditional). You'll see that the serving size for all these brands is 1/2 cup, but take note of that innocuous little number that follows, the one in parentheses, which gives the weight in grams for your meager 1/2 cup serving. Ay, there's the rub. A half-cup of Turkey Hill Vanilla Bean weighs in at 66 grams (140 calories). The same serving size of Häagen-Dazs Vanilla: 106 grams (270 calories). Yowza! That's 40 percent more ice cream by weight, and 130 more calories.

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If you're watching carbs, all bets are off. Premium ice cream and butterfat go together like pigs in a blanket; that's just a fact. But carbohydrates can turn the equation on its head.

For one thing, if all you care about is carbs, you can indulge in superdense ice cream without the guilt, because while the fat content is higher, the carbs often compare favorably to traditional-style ice cream. For instance, Turkey Hill Rum Raisin has 19 total grams of carbohydrates while the identical flavor by Häagen-Dazs contains a competitive 22 grams; whereas the difference in total fat is significant: 6 grams and 17 grams, respectively.

Another consideration: Sometimes the flavors with the least fat have the most carbs. Consider Ben & Jerry's popular Phish Food, which features chocolate ice cream with marshmallows, caramel swirl, and fudge fish. Calories are a fairly typical 270 per serving, while fat comes in at a modest 12 grams. But all that sugar pumps the carbs up to a whopping 37 grams. Low-carb dieters, beware.

Can't handle all the math? Then take some advice from Ernie Pinckney, special projects coordinator at Turkey Hill. "Just pick the product that you like the best and portion control what you eat," he says. "And don't feel guilty after."

Sarah Jay is the former executive editor of Fine Cooking magazine and a current contributing editor. She is the author of Knives Cooks Love, a cook's guide to buying, sharpening, and using your most important kitchen tool. In addition to writing about food and cooking, Sarah is an importer of Spanish products and the founder of PaellaPans.com

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