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Week-end Beach Klunk

It is that time of year between crust and summer where the trails are too wet to ride, the roads and sidewalks have only recently become clear and dry, and the days are becoming extremely long. The bike shop is busy, and working six long days a week has a way of taking some energy out of the riding coffers. It is a good time of year to catch a little rest from riding and make plans. Daily, I open my computer to find open tabs in my internet browser describing far-off places. I inquire, “were you up late reading a Wikipedia article about Romania?” Sheepishly, and with a smile; you know the answer.

Lael has also discovered road biking, the result of a strained Achilles that shouldn’t be running for a while, and a nice carbon road bike in her size that resides in the basement, belonging to her mother.

I have been exploring and discovering the many conceptual permutations of bikes, rims, tires, and suspension forks resulting in a range of purebred adventure machines, from a standard hardtail 29er to a full-fat fatbike. Of course, the new Rock Shox Bluto is intriguing, promising a quality fork like the Reba, with the clearance for every fatbike tire on the market. The new Salsa Bucksaw is also fascinating, for some kinds of riding.

But, I’d like to use a dynamo hub to run lights and a USB-power outlet. And I don’t expect to need a true fatbike anytime soon–with the exception of a local beach ride, possibly– so there is no reason to pedal a 100mm BB around if I don’t have to. Not that it is a big problem to pedal a fatbike, but it does feel a little different on the body, and platform pedals on wide cranks don’t like to thread through tight places quite as well. This is not a problem 99% of the time, but I’m shooting for perfect, or as near as possible. After some years of evolving touring tastes, I finally feel like I’m coming close to the ultimate adventure bike. This is a very personal definition– as some days I’d rather have the Mukluk, and other days I’d prefer a Horsethief or a Stumpjumper.

Now, a 120mm suspension fork on a purpose-specific hardtail 29+ frame might be the ticket for long-term reliability, efficiency in a variety of terrain, and fun. If I need a fatbike next year, I’ll figure that out next year. Until then, I hope to ride a lot on a bike that feels just right. If I was to remain in Anchorage for the next year, or for several years, I think the Mukluk as pictured above would be my summer bike.

We meet near Earthquake Park at about 7PM. Ride out the paved Coastal Trail, whooping and hollering in the last four hours of sunlight, which is essentially a four hour long sunset. Blast down to the beach and a quick ride to the point to burn some driftwood and cook sausages, avoiding the first few mosquitoes of the year.

Hobbes arrives on his Transition Klunker, a genuine coaster brake klunker with BMX grit– a modern offering from the Transition Bicycle Co, better known for big squish all-mountain bikes. His riding reminds us that bike skills are more important than fancy bikes. Although, he’s got one of those too.

After shooting indoors at high ISO the day before, I forget to adjust the camera settings. The result is an off-putting digital grain, partly reduced during editing. Aside, I’ve recently acquired a proper film camera, an Olympus OM-2S. I finished my first roll of film today. Looking through a real optical viewfinder is inspiring. A simple light meter is nice. The DOF preview is useful. What amazing features.

I also broke my Olympus E-P3 digital camera in an incident involving a Mukluk, some ice, a brief section of urban singletrack, and a tree. Currently, I am using my older E-PM1, which is now Lael’s camera. I am on the hunt for a new body, most likely an Olympus OM-D E-M5. Anyone looking to get rid of one before I place an order? How about a super cheap used E-P3?

At the bottom of this sandy descent (coster brake!) Hobbes remarks that optimal pavement skidding tire pressure and beach pressure are quite different.

Collecting firewood. Summer in AK equals less sleep, and more playtime.

Abe and I have made similar customizations to our Mukluks. A Fox Float fork, Stan’s Flow EX rims, and 29×2.3″ Specialized Purgatory tires are the key ingredients in his build. A wide carbon Answer DH bar, short stem, and hydraulic brakes turn a Mukluk into a trail bike. Eventually, he expects to compile a 1×10 drivetrain with an aftermarket 42T ring for an inexpensive 1x set-up. Note, he’s using a concoction of wood glue and water as a tubeless tire sealant. It works.

Fork clearance is huge, even with wider rims and 2.3″ tires.

Not so much room with a Knard on a Velocity Dually rim, but enough for experimental purposes. I don’t expect to rely on 3.0″ Knard tires, anyway. They ride nicely, but the tread wears quickly as a result of low-profile knobs. I also prefer more aggressive tires for unexpected trail conditions, and especially, for steep climbs. I am thinking a 35mm rim and a 2.35, 2.4, 2.5 or even 2.75″ tire would be ideal. Still hoping to try some Surly Dirt Wizard tires if they even make it to market. I am thinking a Krampus frame would be the perfect host for this mix of parts, leaving some room to spare for mud. Somehow, I’ve known the Krampus might be the best choice for me for years. It has been a long road getting here via the Schwinn High Sierra, Surly Pugsley, Raleigh XXIX, Surly ECR, and the Salsa Mukluk.

The Salsa Alternator swinging dropouts allow for simple and secure chain tensioning. To clear the 29+ tire they must be rotated back several mm.

The Velocity Dually rims are beautiful, and built up as well as any wheel I have built. I think a 45mm rim is a great pairing for 3.0″ tires, and is slightly lighter than Rabbit Hole rims. As always, Velocity rims are Made in the USA. I’ll be experimenting with the claimed tubeless features of this rim, although from my initial experiments, there may be something missing in contrast to more advanced tubeless designs. I’ve been spoiled by Stan’s rims, I think.

Chain to tire clearance is very good, as expected. In many ways, a fatbike frame with 29+ wheels is an ideal adventure set-up. Full double or triple drivetrain clearance is a breeze, and for certain trips, a quick wheel swap at home turns it back into a fatbike. This is a perfect four-season Alaska adventure bike.

My concern for BB width is largely the result of many months of riding ahead of us. We don’t know where, or when, or how long, but I want something that pedals really comfortably. I think my legs prefer a 73mm BB for long days, higher cadences, and steep climbs. So far, the 29+ Mukluk has been a joy, and a proof of concept.

Lots of plotting and planning. Anyone in AK want to buy a Mukluk or an ECR? Details to follow.

I’ve got a friend running 2.4″ Ardents on Duallys. It looks like a nice combination, but for my purposes, I think 35mm rims are probably best. I’ve come to appreciate an approximate 2:1 ratio of tire:rim for trail riding, not that the Duallys are unnecessarily wide. For fatbiking, more rim is better.

A 35mm rim produces a voluminous, rounded tire profile, and is slightly lighter than a 45 or even 50mm rim. I am trying to avoid a heavy wheelset, even though I generally appreciate the merits of bigger and bigger tires. In a way, choosing smaller rims and tires is an exercise in restraint. As for 2.5s, all I’ve seen are the Maxxis Minion tires, which look very nice for a longer mountain bike tour, as they are a tough-as-nails DH construction, weighing over 1000g.

Not sure which bag you are looking at, but it looks as if Hobbes is descending with a Patagonia shoulder bag on the blue Transition Klunker. My red framebag is handmade by Scott Felter of Porcelain Rocket (http://www.porcelainrocket.com), who specialized in custom lightweight bicycle luggage. Abe’s black framebag is from Revelate Designs (http://www.revelatedesigns.com), which is available through your local bike shop, or online directly from Revelate.

Just got back from a first trail ride (technical, rocky and twisty) with the AMPeirce in 29+ hardtail mode – a very fine thing indeed. I do feel that the 73mm BB vs the 100mm is a good thing for me too. I did a dremel job on a Reba and am running a Knard on P35 (as I already had one built up).

Tom, I’ve been jealously following some of the great custom 29+ projects happening right now. Andy’s frame is really intriguing. Sadly, it’ll never quite fill the fatbike need, unless a Rohloff is involved, but then it doesn’t make any design compromises and is much like a normal 29er (135mm rear, 73mm BB), but with loads of clearance.

29+ with a 100mm Reba seems to be a pretty good combination – though, like you I’m looking forward to either the Dirt Wizard (will it ever eventuate now that the ‘big boys’ are starting produce similar and undoubtedly cheaper tyres) or the Maxxis Chronicle. I am (not surprisingly) really pleased with how the Peirce is working out – it’s even better than I hoped (which is quite an achievement!). I agree that obligatory Rohloff use is a significant price to pay for a frame that makes minimal compromise, but I view both the frame and the hub as long-term commitments and justify both that way. Time will tell – I look forward to your ongoing search :-). PS – hope you find an EM5, though apart form the weather sealing, the new EM10 would be a good choice too….

Tom, When I first stumbled upon the concept of a 135mm rear end that allows a fatbike tire, I was intrigued. Most importantly, it makes no compromise for the rider (73mmBB), and operates as a 29/29+ with tons of extra clearance.

I really haven’t used a Rohloff enough to say anything about it, and as a result of price and indifference, it may remain beyond my casual acquisition for some time. Although, there certainly are days when I wish I had one. In general, the entire problem of chain-to-tire clearance has me running for an IGH.

I will be curious to follow the new Pinion 18sp gearbox in the next few years.

I’ve got a lead on a used EM5, so that should be on its way soon. As I have a weathersealed lens, the EM5 will be a nice pairing, and should look nice next to the OM-2 that I’ve been shooting. Also, I’ve got a trick up my sleeve regarding my next set of 29/29+ wheels.

14.2 kg as shown in picture, 2 different frames available (135 or 170 rear, both X12) and the spider that allows for the wider chainline to clear the tire is a prototype from Pinion themselves, so we can be expecting some more framebuilders experimenting with fat Pinion stuff I guess.

Personally, I’d skip the Gates and go for a chain, but the concept looks very thought through. Problem is, even when selling parts from mine for a very good price, keeping the rest and getting the frame/pinion would still require an addition 1k € ..

I “clearanced” an Xfusion Slide fork for my Krampus. I really love having the big tires with the 100mm fork for our super technical east coast trails, but I was having rubbing issues because of flex from the 9mm QR. I guess I’m going to have to invest in a through axle Fox Talas fork to eliminate it.

Very cool article! I’m very green when it comes to bike customizations, but I’m really interested in outfitting my Mukluk with a suspension fork and 29+ rig for a true 4-season ride.

Could you tell me what hub you used in your build (assuming it’s 100mm x 15QR spacing, right?)? Also, it looks like the the Float outfitted on Abe’s bike comes in both 15QR an 9mm open dropouts (unlike the Talas, which I’m only finding available with 15QR) – do you think the 9mm open dropout fork would feel stiff enough, or should I stick with the 15QR?

My hub is a SP PD-8X dynamo hub, which produces power for my lights and USB outlet. Any thru-axle hub will be fine. Regarding 29+ and suspension forks, the Fox forks technically fit the tire, but barely. There is said to be an MRP fork, the Stage I think, that will clear the 3.0″ Knard. The Rock Shox Bluto will certainly do it, and will also clear a full fat tire, but requires a 150mm hub spacing.

The 9mm dropouts will be just fine. The difference is not substantial, and also depends on rider weight and riding style, stiffness of the fork and size of the stanchions, steerer type, length of travel, etc. If you find somthing that works that is 9mm QR, go for it. Alternately, you might find a decent used Reba on CL and Dremel the arch to clear a bigger tire. Others have done this without issue. Best of luck!