Woke up to steamy Chest-High Macaroni's at dawn. Surfed 6-9, went in for some pineapple and sunscreen, surfed from 10-1300, HH now. Back to the boat for a little food and water. The Japanese boat left and I paddled back out. Now it was OH+ clean and empty. Surfed it from 1500 - 1800, more waves, more barrels more pure joy than I can recall.

Gave up at sunset, ate a giant meal, then passed out to do it all over again the next day!

Biggest Fear or Wipe out:

Once KO'd by hitting the bottom at a square beachbreak.

Had a panicky half-mile paddle-out at a big-wave spot during a 20' event. I was out-of-shape and sure that I was going to drown if a set came in and blew up on my head. I out-paddled two younger guys by 200 yards in my rush to make it to the outside. Made it, but then spent the rest of the session freaked out by the size and only caught a few monsters.