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Description

Elements of Physical Oceanography is a derivative of the Encyclopedia of Ocean Sciences, 2nd Edition and serves as an important reference on current physical oceanography knowledge and expertise in one convenient and accessible source. Its selection of articles—all written by experts in their field—focuses on ocean physics, air-sea transfers, waves, mixing, ice, and the processes of transfer of properties such as heat, salinity, momentum and dissolved gases, within and into the ocean. Elements of Physical Oceanography serves as an ideal reference for topical research.

Key Features

References related articles in physical oceanography to facilitate further research

Richly illustrated with figures and tables that aid in understanding key concepts

Includes an introductory overview and then explores each topic in detail, making it useful to experts and graduate-level researchers

Topical arrangement makes it the perfect desk reference

Readership

professionals, researchers, and graduate students in the marine sciences

Table of Contents

Surface Waves, Tides, and Sea Level

Elements of Physical Oceanography: Introduction

Editorial Advisory Board Members who helped in the production of this volume

Surface Gravity and Capillary Waves

Introduction

Basic Formulations

Linear Waves

The Group Velocity

Second Order Quantities

Waves on Currents: Action Conservation

Nonlinear Effects

Resonant Interactions

Parasitic Capillary Waves

Wave Breaking

See also

Wave Generation by Wind

Introduction

Theories of Wave Growth

Experiments and Observations

Numerical Modeling of the Wind Input

Conclusions

See also

Rogue Waves

Introduction

Surface Gravity Waves

Physical Mechanisms

Statistics of Large Waves

Experiments and Observations

Numerical Simulations

Conclusions

See also

Waves on Beaches

Introduction

The Dynamics of Incident Waves

Radiation Stress: the Forcing of Mean Flows and Set-up

Nonlinear Incident Waves

Vertically Dependent Processes

2HD Flows - Circulation

Infragravity Waves and Edge Waves

Shear Waves

Conclusions

Nomenclature

See also

Wave Energy

Introduction

Wave Power: Resource and Exploitation

Economics of Wave Power Conversion

Concluding remarks

See also

Whitecaps and Foam

Introduction

Spilling Wave Crests: Stage A Whitecaps

Decaying Foam Patches: Stage B Whitecaps

Wind-Dependence of Oceanic Whitecap Coverage

Stabilized Sea Foam

Global Implications

See also

Breaking Waves and Near-Surface Turbulence

Introduction

Breaking Waves

Turbulence beneath Breaking Waves

Conclusion

Nomenclature

See also

Seiches

Introduction

History

Dynamics

Generating Mechanisms and Observations

See also

Tsunami

TSUNAMI

Historical and Recent Tsunamis

Tsunami Generation Mechanisms

Modeling of Tsunami Generation, Propagation, and Coastal Inundation

Tsunami Generation and Propagation in an Open Ocean

Coastal Effects – Inundation and Tsunami Forces

Tsunami Hazard Mitigation

Tsunami Early Warning System

Coastal Inundation Map

Acknowledgment

See also

Storm Surges

Introduction and Definitions

Storm Surge Equations

Generation and Dynamics of Storm Surges

Areas Affected by Storm Surges

Storm Surge Prediction

Interactions with Wind Waves

Data Assimilation

Related Issues

See also

Coastal Trapped Waves

Introduction

Formulation

Straight Unstratified Shelf

Other Geometry

Stratification

Friction

Mean Flows

Non-linear Effects

Alongshore Variations

Generation and Role of Coastal-trapped Waves

Summary

See also

Tides

Introduction

Tidal Patterns

Gravitational Potential

The Equilibrium Tide

Tidal Analysis

Tidal Dynamics

Ocean Tides

Energy Fluxes and Budgets

See also

Tidal Energy

Introduction

Energy of Tides

Extracting Tidal Energy: Traditional Approach

Extracting Tidal Energy: Non-traditional Approach

Utilizing Electric Energy from Tidal Power Plants

Conclusion

See also

Sea Level Change

Introduction

Sea-Level Changes Since the Last Glacial Maximum

Observed Recent Sea-Level Change

Tide-gauge Observations

Altimeter Observations

Processes Determining Present Rates of Sea-Level Change

Regional Sea-Level Change

Longer-term Changes

Summary

See also

Sea Level Variations Over Geological Time

Introduction

Sea Level Change due to Volume of Water in the Ocean Basin

Sea Level Change due to Changing Volume of the Ocean Basin

Sea Level Change Estimated from Observations on the Continents

Summary

The Air-Sea Interface

Heat and Momentum Fluxes at the Sea Surface

Introduction

Measuring the Fluxes

Sources of Flux Data

Regional and Seasonal Variation of the Momentum Flux

Regional and Seasonal Variation of the Heat Fluxes

Accuracy of Flux Estimates

See also

Sea Surface Exchanges of Momentum, Heat, and Fresh Water Determined by Satellite

John Steele

Affiliations and Expertise

Steve Thorpe

Affiliations and Expertise

Karl Turekian

KARL KAREKIN TUREKIAN (1927–2013)

Karl Turekian was a man of remarkable scientific breadth, with innumerable important contributions to marine geochemistry, atmospheric chemistry, cosmochemistry, and global geochemical cycles. He was mentor to a long list of students, postdocs, and faculty (at Yale and elsewhere), a leader in geochemistry, a prolific author and editor, and had a profound influence in shaping his department at Yale University.

In 1949 Karl joined a graduate program in the new field of geochemistry at Columbia University under Larry Kulp with students Dick Holland and his fellow Wheaton alums Wally Broecker and Paul Gast. This was a propitious time as Columbia’s Lamont Geological Observatory had only been established a few years beforehand. It was during these years that Karl began to acquire the skills that led to his rapid emergence as a leader in geochemistry.

After a brief postdoc at Columbia, Karl accepted a position as Assistant Professor of Geology at Yale University in 1956, where he set out to create a program in geochemistry from scratch. Karl spent the rest of his life on the Yale faculty and was immersed in geochemistry to the end. He was deeply involved in editing this edition of the massive Treatise on Geochemistry, which has grown to 15 volumes, until only a month before his passing away on 15 March 2013.

Karl turned to the study of deep-sea cores and especially the analysis of trace elements to study the wide variety of geochemical processes that are recorded there. His work with Hans Wedepohl in writing and tabulating the Handbook of Geochemistry (Turekian, 1969) was a major accomplishment and this work was utilized by many generations of geochemists. Teaming up with his graduate students and in association with Paul Gast, he developed a mass spectrometry lab at Yale and began to thoroughly investigate the Rb–Sr isotopic systematics of deep-sea clays, not only as repositories but also as sites for exchange to occur and serve as a control of the geochemistry of ocean water.

Karl was a major player in a revolutionary marine geochemistry campaign known as the Geochemical Ocean Section Study (GEOSECS). GEOSECS was part of the International Decade of Ocean Exploration in the 1970s, and it took aim at measuring and understanding the distribution of geochemical tracers for circulation and biogeochemistry in the world’s oceans.. It was also within this same time period that another large-scale ‘geochemical’ sampling program known as Apollo 11 came along. Here Karl utilized his INAA techniques to examine some of the first returned lunar samples for their trace elements. Karl was particularly proud of being the holder of the Silliman Chair and being curator of the Yale meteorite collection. In a continuation of Karl’s foray into cosmochemistry, Andy Davis came to Yale to study with Karl and Sydney Clark.

Equally important to the legacy of what Karl did for science in his research contributions on and across the planet was his influence on scientists. His legendary daily coffee hours were a training ground for many generations of students, postdocs, and visitors, as well as a proving ground for Karl’s own ideas. He had a great love for vigorous scientific debate. Karl loved to question and be questioned. Nothing was sacred and, in the act of questioning as in exploring, new science arises. He was extraordinarily supportive of people, always had time to discuss and listen, and helped everyone from students to his fellow faculty at Yale. Karl was twice department chair and even when not chair, a steadying influence in times of departmental difficulty.