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Milan Fashion Week: Gucci's film noir in color

Gucci designer Frida Giannini cited flame-haired songstress Florence Welch as the inspiration for her sexy fall collection, which opened fashion week in Milan on Wednesday.

"A contemporary female dandy," was how Giannini described the look, which began with a bold palette of emerald green, fuchsia, purple, teal and rust.

But however she cast it, this was nothing new for Gucci. It harkened back to the house's heyday in the 1970s, and again in the 1990s with Tom Ford at the helm.

But with so many designers mining the 1970s this runway season and last, it was probably inevitable that Gucci would take its turn. And the clothes were actually quite pretty -- jewel-toned pantsuits, suede skirts that hit below the knee, and slim-fitting coats worn with vibrant fur stoles and plumed fedoras. Other accessories included colorful snakeskin pumps and the new Jackie bag with a long, detachable shoulder strap.

Floaty dresses with scarves that tied at the neck came in colorful silk jersey or see-through fabric, slit thigh-high. Glossy black patent leather boots and skirts added another element of kinkiness.

And just when the eye was beginning to tire of so many bushy fur vests, Giannini sent out flowers instead. Capelets, boleros and stoles, thick with organza, chiffon and silk petals, worn over chiffon gowns.

In a show that felt a little soulless, as if Giannini was just churning out luxury, it was her most creative moment.