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It has been 20 years since Gordon Ramsay opened his first solo restaurant and 17 since it won its third Michelin star. Over two decades, Ramsay has transformed from a chef to a celebrity chef to a celebrity, while his restaurant empire has evolved from one based around fine-dining to something more mass market. And the less said about the tabloid churn of his personal and professional highs and woes, the better.

But through it all the restaurant that bears his name has remained one of the few constants and, like the man himself, it still has huge pulling power: I had to book two months in advance for a midweek lunch table.

Ramsay, of course, has made no pretence of cooking in his kitchens for...