SINTRA OF ATTENTION

AT two hours' flying time from the UK, Lisbon makes an ideal weekend break - and, should that not be enough, it has a winning attraction up its sleeve.

The city's bars and restaurants are cheap and, though the Portuguese language is a mystery to most, its people are friendly.

The River Tagus gives the place an airy feel and while it is not the prettiest city in the world it has some interesting old buildings.

It is warm all year and stifling in July and August. You could visit the coastal resorts of Estoril and Cascais for the day but by far the best way to spend your time is on a trip to the stunning hill town of Sintra - it's likely to prove the highpoint of your visit.

So here's our guide to Sintra and Lisbon...

TOP ATTRACTION: Lisbon is a great place to visit but you'll kick yourself if you return to Blighty without making the quick journey to timeless Sintra.

This beguiling and popular town is the former summer retreat for the kings of Portugal (and Lord Byron and his pals), set in wooded hills to the north-west of Lisbon.

Regular trains leave Rossio station for Sintra and the journey takes around 30 minutes.

Alternatively, you can take an open-topped tourist bus which calls at Sintra, Estoril and Cascais costing about £12 for the round-trip.

Sintra is a higgledy-piggeldy place, with a maze of roads winding over the hillsides.

The old town itself is dominated by the twin oast-style chimneys of the Palacio Nacional, built in the 14th Century and used by Portuguese royalty until the 1800s.

But Sintra's crowning glory is the Palacio da Pena, perched on one of the highest hills, with views along the coast and built like an enchanting fairytale castle.

It's a mix of Moorish, Gothic and Romantic architecture, painted in pinks and yellows.

Inside, the furniture remains just as the last Portuguese royal family left it when they were forced into exile by the republicans in 1910.

The town itself oozes charm but be warned - it can get a bit hectic in high summer when everyone else decides to avoid the heat of Lisbon and head for the hills, too.

If you do hanker for the coast, the seaside resorts of Estoril and Cascais also make a pleasant day out . They are both easily reached by train in about 40 minutes.

Estoril still has the slightly faded elegance of the days when it lured the aristocracy to its casinos and bathing-huts.

Cascais is slightly more brash but they both have excellent beaches. Remember, this is the Atlantic, so don't expect warm seas, even in summer.

LISBON SIGHTS: After the 1755 earthquake, extensive rebuilding took place.

The Baixa - lower town - was built on a grid system, with broad streets leading down to the Praca do Comercio, a square on the Tagus. It is flanked by the Bairro Alto (high town), with its cobbled streets, bars, restaurants. Just below is the Chiado, packed with designer shops. Further down still, near the river, is the Estrela district which has a huge covered market, the Mercado 24 de Julho.

Behind the lower town is Rossio Square, with its cafes, posh shops and traffic jams. Just off the square is the landmark Elevador de Santa Justa, which clatters its way 105ft above the city.

But the jewel in Lisbon's crown is the Alfama district. Dominated by the ruined Castello Sao Jorge, the Alfama is a labyrinth that tumbles down the hillside.

This remains a workers' area, with dogs barking in the streets, the sound of Fado music coming from dimly-lit tavernas and washing hanging from every balcony. Take a No.12 tram up from the Baixa and visit the Castello, for a walk around its battlements and the views. Then head down and east, stopping at one of the scores of restaurants before a visit to the cathedral at the bottom.

EATING AND DRINKING: Seafood and rice is the staple. Eating out is cheap and there is an astonishing number of restaurants in the Bairro Alto and Alfama.

Splash out at the Tavares, one of the city's poshest establishments but, even here, you shouldn't pay more than £30 a head.

At the nearby Restaurante Gamba, you'll pay half that for a seafood casserole washed down with Vinho Verde. For a nightcap try the atmospheric Brasileira Cafe. Clubbers will find most venues in the Alcantara District.

GETTING AROUND: Lisbon has a public transport system which involves buses, ancient trams, a clean and efficient Metro system, trains to the suburbs and ferries.

The elevadores, funicular trams, are a fun way to get from the Baixa to the Bairro Alto or the Castle.

The Metro has four lines serving 38 stops and ferries serve the towns on the other side of the river.

The airport is about four miles from the city centre. A taxi to the main hotel areas costs around £5.Getting There:

RETURN scheduled British Airways flights to Lisbon cost from £129pp based on departures in March 2005.

Three nights, including full breakfast, at the three-star Sana Classic Executive costs from £81pp, inc one free night's accommodation, in March.