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Running a brushless motor at partial or lower throttle is harder on the motor, making the esc/motor work harder and hotter, than higher or full throttle.

Example here, If I'm running my Puller Pro Standard 2700 KV at a little under 1/4 throttle for an extended time, it is harder on the motor than running it at higher throttle, around 50-60% for a while.

Running a brushless motor at partial or lower throttle is harder on the motor, making the esc/motor work harder and hotter, than higher or full throttle.

Example here, If I'm running my Puller Pro Standard 2700 KV at a little under 1/4 throttle for an extended time, it is harder on the motor than running it at higher throttle, around 50-60% for a while.

Any truth to this?

Motors like spinning faster for any given load, but it's not much issue to run motors at half throttle. The item that really hurts under part throttle is the esc unless it has synchronous rectification, which no car controllers use. Part throttle loads without SR utilize body diodes to deal with rectification, which makes a lot more heat than the FETs would.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I've also heard that electric motors are happiest when they are spinning faster.

Very nice! Being able to get down to 2S is a nice feature ( I usually bring a 2S battery around for backup but I'm afraid to use it with the SHV500 V1 in my wraith)

What is the difference between your waterproof version and regular puller pro? I bought this 3500 used and was told it's not the water proof version, but the sensor boards looked coated when I pulled it apart to silicon conformal coat them.

In the brushed world, where would the puller 400 compare to a brushless?

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There isn't anything very close that works. A little 2215 outrunner would be similar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motorider

What is the difference between your waterproof version and regular puller pro? I bought this 3500 used and was told it's not the water proof version, but the sensor boards looked coated when I pulled it apart to silicon conformal coat them.

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You may have gotten a freebie upgrade. The boardmaker puts a little bit of conformal, but we lay it on thicker in house.

Quote:

Originally Posted by realsickclown

2

Can I make a brush shaper or buy one for reasonably cheap? I'm looking now.

Edit: during the break in , the motor in or out? Is it best connected to the drive line or no?

Depends on a few too many factors to say outright, but... Two mini BRs going into an ESC would probably work since they are linear and won't fight as much. No problem on 2s. 3s may make the main regulator run warm or even hot. Wouldn't recommend 4s whilst powering leds.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ascenderbender

What can you run 4s on in your puller brushless motor series?

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3500kv is awesome on it, racing or otherwise. 4500 hasn't been tested on the track running 4s, it would be pretty uncontrollable power though.

I usually gear down my drivetrain (axles, spur and pinion) for better torque and smooth startup. I always use a shallow throttle curve with high startup. Typically using puller pros and ble. I always get confused on KV though. Given the previous...what would be better for torque and slow crawling? 2200, 3500 or negligible difference? Would a 3500/2700 with throttle EPAs shortened feel the same as a 2200 wide open at startup? Thanks in advance.

Just reread Mav's post...kind of similar...edit: Does a throttle curve significantly change the amount of power or torque to a given KV motor?