Author
Topic: Engine Polishing Round 2 (Read 4012 times)

So, I just wasn't happy with the polishing results that I achieved the other day when I was cleaning up my motor. I know part of the problem was that I just used regular rubbing compound to polish the metal instead of actual metal polish. The other problem was that the metal is 55 years old and it's been at least 15 years of storage since that metal has had a good polishing. So while at work yesterday I was looking at the different types of metal polish we have. Then I noticed a Brand New Meguiars product. Meguiars Medium-Cut Metal Polish

So, I bought a tube and brought it home and went straight to the garage after work. I fired up the heater and pull all my lower controls off, again, and started going to town with my 3" high speed buffer. A couple hours later, and I was rather impressed at how well the polish did. Again, not perfect, but the covers look great. I ALMOST have that mirror like shine, and the transmission cover, above all else, looks a 100 times better. I am very happy with this product and the results speak for themselves. The pics aren't the best because I took them inside of my garage in the middle of a snow storm, but I'll take some better ones when the weather clears up again. Scottie

I love Meguiar's and I've had really good luck with all their products over the years. We also started stocking a Meguiar's finishing metal polish that I'm thinking about trying out in the future. For general metal cleaning I use Nevr-Dull and buff it clean with a microfiber.

Use the backing disc and buffing pad along with a high speed drill or a 1/4" die grinder and that Medium-Cut polish. Plan on spending about 30-45 minutes per side. I spent about 2 1/2 hours total. You'll also need a handful of rags and a microfiber or 2. Oh, and don't forget to clean up the polish sling all over your surrounding areas. Scottie

I started off with Nevr-Dull and it did very little for me so I got some Mother's Aluminum Polish and along with the drill and buffer assy and all that crap, it was a big improvement, but still wasn't quite up there with yours. But at this point, now, I have to wait to get a new one to stain up and try again!Bare

If you really want to do it to the max, you have to start with sandpaper, and do the whole surface by hand, and then move to the next finer grit sandpaper, and do that all by hand, and so on.After you get up to about 1500 grit paper, you can move to polishing compound.

That will give you a top shine.It also takes days of work, and your fingers will all be red and sore and possibly bleeding from sandpaper work.That's how Chumma does it.Here's an example of how that worked out on Chuck's Fireball that Chumma did.

Damn it! My garage is full of sand paper too! I didn't realize that I could sand that metal. That does make sense though. ace - Does he start off with 600 or 800 grit paper? And does he use any kind of lubricant like water or detailing spray? I was going to repaint jugs, heads and case Metallic Black next weekend, but now I might give one more shot at shining up the covers first...... Awww, screw it. I'm ready to start painting this thing!

Damn it! My garage is full of sand paper too! I didn't realize that I could sand that metal. That does make sense though. ace - Does he start off with 600 or 800 grit paper? And does he use any kind of lubricant like water or detailing spray? I was going to repaint jugs, heads and case Metallic Black next weekend, but now I might give one more shot at shining up the covers first...... Awww, screw it. I'm ready to start painting this thing!

The grit to start with depends on what the surface pitting is like. If there are deep pits that need to come out, you need to start with some fairly coarse paper, and work your way up to the finer grits. That takes a long time if you have to do that.Once you get above 400 grit, you can use the paper wet if you want to.

It's strictly a matter of perseverance and desire. It is so time consuming and tough on the hands that you really have to want to do it. And once you start out, you have to finish it, or else it looks horrible.

I have had a good experience with Mothers Mag and Aluminium Polish. Would deffo recommend it. I've been searching for a less abrasive polish to give it the flawless finish. The Mothers Mag&Al does leave fine scratches - not too noticeable, though.

It's actually best to combine the 2 motions. Go over the entire cover going back and forth, and then go over the entire cover doing small circles. Then go to next finer grit. I'm not sure how bad of shape they are in , but you need to wet sand and start off with either 800 or 1000 grit (depending on how pitted and corroded the metal is), then 1500, and finish with 2000. After that you will want to buff out the metal with medium metal polish and a 3" buffer (the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit works very well with a drill). Once the haze is completely gone and the cover is shiny again, finish it off with finishing polish. Microfibers work great anytime you are wet sanding and polishing. Use them often to clean the surface so you can track your progress and identify any areas that still need work.