At Cogan's in Williamsburg's New Town area, lunchtime is crunchtime for the quirky little eatery. With daily happy hours, 3-7, a Beer Cave with football on the widescreen and a lively music scene on the weekends, the deli and pub has a lot going for it. But lunch seems to be a local favorite as well.

One day last week, I felt lucky to get a table in the busy deli, which also was pumping out take-out orders at a hefty clip. Sandwiches and salads are the specialty and this Cogan's — no connection to the Norfolk's Ghent-area eatery of the same name — does them up right.

Featuring Boars Head meats and cheeses, the sandwiches are served hot and toasty on a variety of breads and wraps.

I have long been on a search for the "best" Reuben on the Peninsula, and I must say, this one is a real contender. Just the right amount of meat, kraut and dressing is on this tasty creation. And when it has reached its toasty pinnacle, it is sent out to the table while the hot, melted cheese is still oozing out the sides. It just doesn't get much better than this. — Karen Morgan