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Among the non-Graves/Fullerton watches sold last week at Sotheby's that I was most closely tracking was a 1938 Audemars Piguet chronograph in an 18k yellow gold case. As we have previously told you, Vintage Audemars Piguet chronographs are notoriously difficult to find. Just check out this post and this post to see a couple rare and valuable AP chronos.

The reason why vintage Audemars chronographs are so difficult to find is simply because AP had such a limited production. The lot notes for this chronograph explain why: "In the 1930s, production levels for Audemars Piguet dropped nearly to a halt following the worldwide economic depression following the 1929 stock market crash. The firm adjusted by re-assessing the number of watchmakers on staff, but remained committed to the tradition of haute horlogerie that continues to define the brand. By 1938, the firm recorded just over 400 pieces made for the year, a number which may seem low but which marked a 400% uptick from the previous year."

This chronograph has a spectacular dial incorporating an outer telemeter track (for determining distance of objects through sight and sound, such as artillery fire, other explosions, or lightning) and a tachometer ring on the inner part of the dial, for measuring speed. The telemeter track is a pinkish-bronze color, the hour ring featuring radium lume and a Roman numeral 6 and 12 is a creamy yellow and the inner tachometer track is a yellow color more in line with the case. The combination of the three colors on the dial is extremely pleasing. The case back was engraved for a French lieutenant who served during World War II on the front lines. Perhaps the radium lume in the minute hand even fell out as a result of a shock or explosion during battle. After World War II, the watch went into a safe deposit box and was passed down through the family. It was offered for sale for the first time this past week at Sotheby's in New York.

Steve McQueen wore many watches throughout his life, including the Hanhart 417 (or 417ES) chronograph. Hanhart is a German manufacturer that specialized in producing chronographs for the German Air Force, including the Luftwaffe in World War II through the West German Air Force in the 1950s.

First introduced in 1995, the reference 5020 had a dial and case reminiscent of a 1960s television set, which is why this is sometimes referred to as the Patek TV set watch. It was not a great success for Patek Philippe as collectors were not thrilled with the shape and look of this unexpected watch. As a result, Sotheby’s has estimated that fewer than 300 examples of this reference were produced. Like so many things, this watch has begun to be appreciated only after its time of production has passed.

It isn't difficult to see why the 5020 has fallen back into favor with collectors. The caliber M.27-70/155 inside the watch provides a variety of complications that are coveted by Patek enthusiasts: chronograph, perpetual calendar and the phases of the moon being the biggest among them. Coupled with the enduring details like Breguet hands and a TV shaped case, the 5020 is fetching high dollars at auction for good reason.

Heuer collectors are a dedicated bunch, unearthing obscure case and caliber details with fervent pride. Occasionally, unidentified markings or reference numbers elude explanation, keeping entire communities relegated to speculation. One such mystery, the "Fab. Suisse" printing on select dials from the 50's and 60's, has proven particularly elusive. Thanks to some sleuthing by Mr. Jeff Stein of On The Dash, Heuer buffs can put the speculation to rest.

A number of theories had taken shape, hoping to explain the French abbreviation "Fab. Suisse." They ranged from Canadian market watches to marketing ploy boasting the fact the watches where Swiss made (a redundancy given the already present "Swiss" on the dial), to a requirement for watches sold within France.

While the theories were many, it wasn't until an OTD member posted his "Fab. Suisse" marked Carerra 45 Dato, that Mr. Stein got serious in researching the origins of the label. Jeff went so far as to phone Jack Heuer himself, in a fruitless effort to obtain answers. Short on ideas, Mr. Heuer doubted that the phrase was required for watches sold in France. Undeterred, Jeff reached out to the community at large, and within a matter of days was rewarded with an answer.

The "Fab. Suisse" was in fact a requirement in France for the purpose of "consumer protection" dating back to 1892. Dials belonging to watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and Longines in the 1930s-1960s have all been seen with the "Fab. Suisse" label.

Answer in hand, Jeff followed up with Mr. Heuer, who had a few insights as to the why. Jack confirmed that the reason we have not seen many Heuer watches with "Fab. Suisse" on the dial is because France was a relatively small market for chronographs in the 40's thru 60's, particularly those made by Heuer. You can read the events that led to this discovery in the order they took place right here on On The Dash.

Being HODINKEE, we have found two Heuer chronographs with "Fab. Suisse" on the dial for sale. One is a 1950s two-register chronograph being sold by a dealer in Germany and available here. The second is a three-register Autavia with a Valjoux 72 movement and magnificent patina coming up for auction in Monte Carlo, Monaco on July 26.

Whether it is the Submariner for Rolex, Speedmaster for Omega, Flying Officer for Gallet or Monaco for Heuer, certain brands will always have one model that is most identifiable, and associated with them. For Longines that watch is probably the Longines Lindbergh, a watch designed by Charles Lindbergh for the functional purposes of aviation.

Watches and cars - they go together like 80s power metal and big hair. Perhaps it’s the overarching appeal of finely crafted mechanical objects in a world overwhelmingly geared towards the disposable and the electronic, or maybe it’s just boys and their toys. Whatever it is, it’s a winning combination.

The big marques of watchmaking are well known for their automotive legacies, if only because their marketing departments make sure we’ll never forget. And while the Heuers and Rolexes of the world command the big bucks and most of the attention, it’s important to remember that in the heyday of mechanical timekeeping there was a vast plethora of brands that have long since disappeared. Some of these brands also had some serious automotive history.

While the brands associated with cars and racing might have been many and varied, you can bet that the watches themselves all had something in common – yup, you guessed it – the chronograph. The chronograph is perhaps the most popular complication, especially amongst those who have an interest in speed, like you know – race car drivers.

The guys over at Urban Daddy's "Driven" have found a cache of automotive chronographs from lesser known brands, and it’s a testimony to the diversity of pre quartz watchmaking that monomaniacal watch fans can sometimes to forget.

Click here to check out some of the forgotten gems of automotive horology.

Historically, few workplaces are more dangerous than the sea. Thus, in preceding centuries it has often been on the waves where men have entered the pantheon of heroes, risking death to save the life of another with no regard to country, culture or language.

The Sports Watch of the 80's Is BackIt's not often that a watchmaker waits 28 years to develop a new timepiece, but today HODINKEE brings you a world exclusive of just such a model, the Rouchefoucauld World Complication. Made famous by Dan Aykroyd's character, Louis Winthorpe III, in the film Trading Places, this boutique brand (pronounced Rosh Foo-co) is issuing its first new model since 1983. And what a watch it is.

But before we discuss this new beauty, why don’t we let Mr. Aykroyd describe the original:

"This is a Rouchefoucauld. The thinnest water-resistant watch in the world. Singularly unique, sculptured in design, hand-crafted in Switzerland, and water resistant to three atmospheres. This is *the* sports watch of the '80s. Six thousand, nine hundred and fifty five dollars retail! It tells time simultaneously in Monte Carlo, Beverly Hills, London, Paris, Rome, and Gstaad!"

Rumored to be named after the 17th century French author, François de La Rochefoucauld, whose writings on human behavior fixated on self-interest and self-love, this watchmaker's new World Complication is a perfectly modern adaptation of that philosophy (what screams self-love like a $25,000+ watch?).

Housed in an 18k yellow gold case with a beautiful and supple brown alligator strap, the World Complication stays true to its name. Featuring a COSC-rated chronograph function, day and month apertures, date and moonphase functions, and a world timer, this baby is chock full of complications in a serious sport watch. Rouchefoucauld’s all-new in-house movement, the Calibre 314, is on par with anything the likes of Patek or Vacheron produce. And with a see-through caseback you’ll be able to show off the terrifically ornamented movement.

Sized at 40mm wide and a 10mm thick this watch keeps one foot in the past in terms of it’s overall size, while appealing to the contemporary market with its “bigger is better” mantra. The hour and minute hands are also made from 18k gold, while the chronograph second hand and sub-dial hands are a gorgeous blue hue. And as they’ve incorporated a patented rubber-seal system for the pushers, Rouchefoucauld has upped the water-resistance to a whopping 20 ATM, more than enough for the casual water-dweller.

Considering their last model ran for $6,950 back in 1983, it’s not unreasonable that the retail on the World Complication has jumped to the guilty-pleasure price of $28,500.

We here at HODINKEE cannot wait for a hands-on experience with this watch later this year. We’ll keep you current on when Rouchefoucauld will begin taking orders, but in the meantime, reminisce with the clip below from Trading Places, and feel free to peep the Rouchefoucauld website.

Ask a new watch collector to name the top brands of vintage chronographs, and Longines is not usually among the list.

However, to many seasoned vintage watch collectors, vintage Longines chronographs made between the 1930s and 1960s are among the most desired. This is the case for one primary reason: the movements.

From the 1930s to the 1960s, Longines produced in-house chronograph movements, whereas many other companies relied on purchasing chronograph movements from companies like Valjoux, Venus, and Lemania. The two most well-known and well-respected Longines chronograph movements are the 13ZN (the first flyback chronograph movement ever made) and the 30CH.

Matthew Bain currently has a few great Longines chronographs with the 30CH movement for sale. Our favorite is, according to Bain, from the 1960s. It is a stainless steel watch made for use by a doctor as it includes both a pulsations scale and respirations scale. These helped doctors cut down on the time necessary to gauge a person’s pulse and breath.

The doctor would simply start the chronograph and count 30 heartbeats and then stop the chronograph to see the person's heartbeats per minute on the red scale. The doctor could repeat the process and would only need to count 5 breaths to determine a person’s breaths per minute on the blue scale. While finding vintage chronographs with a pulsations scale is not terribly difficult, we rarely see a watch with the respirations scale.

To see this Longines doctor’s chronograph, click here. For more information on all of Bain’s Longines chronographs, click here.

Linde Werdelin continues to impress as it expands and broadens its collection. In preparation for BaselWorld, LW released the pictures and details for the brand’s first chronograph: the SpidoSpeed. Borrowing many of the design elements of the SpidoLite, the SpidoSpeed features a more complex skeletonized steel case that took almost two years to perfect.

Besides the case, the layered dial of the watch also provides a lot of visual depth. As Morten Linde states, “I wanted the SpidoSpeed to be a complete 3-Dimensional experience no matter the angle.” The SpidoSpeed automatic chronograph is powered by a Concepto caliber 2251 that features a 48 hour power reserve.

SpidoSpeed watches will be numbered starting with 100 watches in series A. The retail price is 11,760 Euros and they will be available to order in May through authorized dealers and at LindeWerdelin.com.

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Friday March 3, 2012

HODINKEE is one of the most widely read wristwatch publications in the world. Launched in 2008 by then 25-year-old Benjamin Clymer, the site quickly gained notoriety for earnest looks at some of the industry’s most interesting, and occasionally forgotten timepieces.