Lucke,
Why not use BRUSHED motors?
Nigel Hawes the columnist in the British RCM&E Special Edition magazine dated Autumn 2013 pages 46 to 49 puts up a good argument for brushed motors particularly in multi-engined park flyers.

The brushed motors are cheap and only need one ESC for twin motors.
Think of the saving when you move up to that four-engined model you possibly plan to build one day!

I wouldn't go to brushed motors any more unless I really needed to- can't get good ESCs.

And yes- you want to use two brushless motors each with its own ESC and a Y-connector.

I'd start with a clean sheet of paper for a power system though- your airplane might come out a lot lighter than the airplane in the article. Being a twin though- the nicad battery may have been needed for noseweight. My last twin wound up needing lead in the snoot for balance using lipoly batteries when it had originally been designed for nicads.

As a guess- if those 2208s are similar to an Axi 2208 and will do around 90-100 watts spinning a 6.5" prop- you'll probably be fine. I've got a thread on a K+A Dinah I'll see if I can link to which should give you some ideas about power systems. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...n+s+in+kitchen

Yes to using a Y on the battery to handle both ESCs- although if you're soldering stuff up, you can just put both cables on the plug. I don't know which channel you need- but I've never had a problem with any radio.

In terms of motors though- no. You need something that will turn the prop shown in the plans with about the same amount of watts. This airplane is going to fly a lot faster than a 3D foamie.

Counter rotating props are not necessary- I've flown half a dozen twins and none of them have needed this. Which is good, because it can be really tough to find matching clockwise and counterclockwise props.

I've only used Castle Creations ESCs on twins. These ESCs eliminate the problem of having to disconnect the BEC feature on one because the BEC circuits don't interfere. Other ESCs will probably require you to disconnect the BEC on one (pull the red wire). This to me eliminates an important redundancy feature on a twin- you really want the radio to keep working no matter what.....

This is the problem Sam, the plans donīt talk about the size of props , only that is 400 size motor... other thing that I found on plans, the motors donīt show any angle to right/left or down. Twins donīt have angles on motors?

OK- then I'll stand by my guess- look for around 100-125 watts on a 6-7" prop. I suspect that 125 watts on a 7" prop would have plenty of power on a 1.1 kg airplane. This will have much more performance than the original setup by the way. You wouldn't be doing badly with a 6" prop with 100 watts either.

In terms of thrust lines- twins don't need side thrust- so straight ahead works fine. However- since if you've got a flat bottom airfoil or something similar- twins often need a bunch of downthrust- they don't have much moment arm. I'd guess at 3 degrees. If you've got a semi-symmetrical airfoil- I'd go with about half that-but again I'm guessing.

Sorry- but I can't stand Hobby Royalty (hobby king)- I don't trust their specs and in the case of the motor you posted- can't find them. Bear in mind that for a twin- you MUST have reliable motors and ESCs that throttle up identically- otherwise when you're slow and hit the throttle- you'll have an instant snap roll. If you want to use HK stuff, you better get help from somebody else.