Author
Topic: Help me choose a lens (Read 4179 times)

@ Random OrbitsI'm comfortable with ISO 800, and push it to 1600 if I have to. When I need to use 3200 ISO, most of the pics are turned to B&W because of the noise, and the details, well... High ISO is my main reason for going FF, and that's why I'm trying to buy only EF lenses from now on. Considering I'm in no hurry, though, I guess I'd rather sleep (a couple months) on it. The EF-S is sure a good lens from what I've read, but buying a 1,000 lens would mean sticking with APS-C for at least 5 more yrs or so (not a bad idea at all).

@ Marsu42Yeah, I'm trying to keep it low profile too, resisting the many temptations life puts in front of me... (Or at least on my monitor...) After all, how good is an ill composed, bad illuminated 22 MP pic?

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I find the 17-40mm f4 L considerably worse on APS-C than the 18-55mm IS kit lens. It's not bad on FF, though. Bad corners but punchy and compact. Oddly good bokeh. The 11-16mm on APS-C is much better, so too should the 10-22 far outclass it.

Choose what focal lengths you like first. IQ won't be that much better than you get with what you have with any set up.

The 17-55mm IS f2.8 zoom is great, but expensive for what it is. But the verstilitiy is great. Or you could go full frame; that 50mm would be very nice on full frame, but a zoom might be more versitile.

@ Random OrbitsSounds good to me! I was even considering getting only the 24-105 lens now and then buy some FF body later. The only thing that bothered me was that it's not so fast, but who wants a shallow DoF for group portraits anyway?

@ rptAgreed. The 24-105, with or without a FF camera, seems to be the better choice.

Any thoughts?Thanks!

The 24-105 is much cheaper as a kit lens (as is the 24-70 kit lens). Don't forget that on the 60D the 24 mm turns into a 45 mm! So if you get rid of your 18-135, you will have nothing on the wide end.

You also have the option to go for a 5D2 and save some money for glass...

Why do you need a FF? What are you missing on your current camera? The 60D is a great camera. Especially if you don't have the option of buying and selling used equipment, going FF is going to be expencive.

What I think you are missing is something in the wider end and something in the tele end. You should definitely keep the 50. My experience is that F4 is not fast enough for low light indoor photos. But again I live in Norway, and I'm guessing Brazil is a bit lighter 1. You can go for the 17-40 (it's a great value), but you don't have the big aperture2. Get a wider prime (ex. around 24-35mm) like the Sigma 30mm F1.4 and get the 70-200mm F4L NON-IS. The combo is slightly more expensive, but both are pretty good lenses. The 70-200 is really sharp and the 30mm has a wide aperture.

Why do you need a FF? What are you missing on your current camera? The 60D is a great camera. Especially if you don't have the option of buying and selling used equipment, going FF is going to be expencive.

What I think you are missing is something in the wider end and something in the tele end. You should definitely keep the 50. My experience is that F4 is not fast enough for low light indoor photos. But again I live in Norway, and I'm guessing Brazil is a bit lighter 1. You can go for the 17-40 (it's a great value), but you don't have the big aperture2. Get a wider prime (ex. around 24-35mm) like the Sigma 30mm F1.4 and get the 70-200mm F4L NON-IS. The combo is slightly more expensive, but both are pretty good lenses. The 70-200 is really sharp and the 30mm has a wide aperture.

The 50 you've got is a good portrait lens.

The 60D lacks AFMA. Getting fast primes to match it well is hard. If he is looking to use fast primes, a different body (crop or FF) with AFMA would be important. I did not realize how much sharper my lenses were until I switched to a body that had AFMA. It mattered with f/2.8 lenses and it definitely matters more with f/1.2 or f/1.4 lenses.

Why do you need a FF? What are you missing on your current camera? The 60D is a great camera. Especially if you don't have the option of buying and selling used equipment, going FF is going to be expencive.

What I think you are missing is something in the wider end and something in the tele end. You should definitely keep the 50. My experience is that F4 is not fast enough for low light indoor photos. But again I live in Norway, and I'm guessing Brazil is a bit lighter 1. You can go for the 17-40 (it's a great value), but you don't have the big aperture2. Get a wider prime (ex. around 24-35mm) like the Sigma 30mm F1.4 and get the 70-200mm F4L NON-IS. The combo is slightly more expensive, but both are pretty good lenses. The 70-200 is really sharp and the 30mm has a wide aperture.

The 50 you've got is a good portrait lens.

The 60D lacks AFMA. Getting fast primes to match it well is hard. If he is looking to use fast primes, a different body (crop or FF) with AFMA would be important. I did not realize how much sharper my lenses were until I switched to a body that had AFMA. It mattered with f/2.8 lenses and it definitely matters more with f/1.2 or f/1.4 lenses.

Ah, that explains it. I usually focus manually, so I haven't felt the need to adjust the AF.

Why do you need a FF? What are you missing on your current camera? The 60D is a great camera. Especially if you don't have the option of buying and selling used equipment, going FF is going to be expencive.

What I think you are missing is something in the wider end and something in the tele end. You should definitely keep the 50. My experience is that F4 is not fast enough for low light indoor photos. But again I live in Norway, and I'm guessing Brazil is a bit lighter 1. You can go for the 17-40 (it's a great value), but you don't have the big aperture2. Get a wider prime (ex. around 24-35mm) like the Sigma 30mm F1.4 and get the 70-200mm F4L NON-IS. The combo is slightly more expensive, but both are pretty good lenses. The 70-200 is really sharp and the 30mm has a wide aperture.

The 50 you've got is a good portrait lens.

The 60D lacks AFMA. Getting fast primes to match it well is hard. If he is looking to use fast primes, a different body (crop or FF) with AFMA would be important. I did not realize how much sharper my lenses were until I switched to a body that had AFMA. It mattered with f/2.8 lenses and it definitely matters more with f/1.2 or f/1.4 lenses.

Ah, that explains it. I usually focus manually, so I haven't felt the need to adjust the AF.