Dining review: Kick back a cold one at Guaymas' lively patio

I've been to Guaymas in Tiburon for after-work parties, post-Angel Island excursions and birthday celebrations. With its ample space, an outside patio that sits over the bay and stunning views of San Francisco's skyline it's a big draw for large groups and tourists. It's also a fun, lively spot for margaritas, but the food has been consistently inconsistent over the years.

The ownership changed two years ago and the menu was tweaked to include more fish dishes and cuisine that is more likely found in the Mexican port of Guaymas. I recall previous moles and sauces with interesting textures, including ground pumpkinseed and pomegranates. Today more predictable Mexican fare is offered — think fajitas, nachos, tacos and enchiladas. Breakfast is now being served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays, and there's a happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. weekdays and live music from 12:30 to 3:30 p.m. weekends.

Interestingly the place is always packed. Despite being told the wait was 45 minutes, we were seated in the main dining room within minutes and promptly served chips and salsa. We started with Dave's Famous Rita margarita ($9), which featured excessive lime juice and very little else, and ceviche ($12.95), which was described as a trio of Dungeness crab, bay shrimp and calamari, however, only shards of crab were evident and the shrimp and squid were lost in a heavy tomato, lime and jicama sauce.

We fared slightly better with an ensalada de Colima ($6.95). A roasted jalapeno vinaigrette and toasted sesame seeds gave this unusual salad of greens, a couple of pieces of mango and papaya and jicama a smoky and unexpected lift. Tamales platanos ($11.95) intrigued me, but the combination of plantains and nopales (cactus) steamed in corn husks lacked balance and instead was a sweet, starchy drab combination. A house specialty, pescado Veracruzano ($21.95), though pricey, hit the mark. Nicely cooked halibut draped over a delicious roasted, creamy polenta cake in a tomato, caper sauce captured the flavors of a seaside town.

The always-festive environs at Guaymas are accentuated by bright blue, red and yellow walls. Fabric-covered banquettes line the space, while multiple tables sit in a raised, more private section of the restaurant. There were far more tables than servers and though the waitstaff appeared to be hustling, the lag between courses was slow. Most of the staff appeared to be out on the patio, which hands down is the only way to go here, even if it's just for a drink. Speaking of drinks, Guayamas offers seven specialty margaritas by the glass as well as pitchers, multiple Mexican beers are available and Tecate is on draft.

For a cold beverage and breathtaking views, the patio at Guaymas hits the spot.

Tanya Henry, the former senior food editor at cooking.com and a judge at the James Beard Foundation journalism awards, has degrees in culinary arts and nutrition and lives in Marin. Follow her on Twitter at http://twitter.com/TanyaHenry or contact her at lifestyles@marinij.com. The IJ invites readers to post their own opinions and experiences about the restaurants featured in Wednesday's dining reviews. Enter your comments at the bottom of this story online at www.marinij.com.

review

GUAYMASAddress: 5 Main St., TiburonPhone: 435-6300Website: www.guaymasrestaurant.comCuisine: MexicanService: Understaffed/slowNoise level: LoudRecommended items: Pescado Veracruzana, churrosLiquor selection: Full barCorkage: $15Heart-healthy and vegetarian selections: SaladsHours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. SundaysCredit cards: All majorPrices: $10 to $18Summary: Guaymas in downtown Tiburon has been a longtime lively spot for tourists and partygoers. The menu was recently tweaked to offer more fish dishes and cuisine that is more likely found in the Mexican port of Guaymas. The real highlight is its outside patio with stunning views of San Francisco's skyline — a perfect spot for one of its specialty margaritas.