So I found a guy selling a TON of tennis stringers again and he has a Winn Pro 2 1000 stringing machine for $150. He didn't give me much info about it but he said it looks very similar to the Gamma 6004. Is this a good deal? If not i can just look at his other ones, they are all under $250 he said. Anything bad about the stringer?
Thanks.
PS : The guy used the stringers for racquetball. If that matters at all.

MUCH much better pictures above. I could not find at least 2. Only found 1 crummy photo. I'll keep posting the pictures the guy sends me of the stringers and the prices. Hopefully theres one DEAL that comes across.

MUCH much better pictures above. I could not find at least 2. Only found 1 crummy photo. I'll keep posting the pictures the guy sends me of the stringers and the prices. Hopefully theres one DEAL that comes across.

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At that price, it's almost a steal. If you think about it, a new drop weight 2- point is about $200. Though it may cost you more in replacement parts than what you paid for the machine.

Just stay away from Czech Sports. If you thought Eagnas was bad, they are even worse.

I had a Winn Pro and just checked the Eagnas site. It looked exactly like the Eagnas 700, with supporting arms coming out of 12 o'clock only (not 6 o'clock). It's a glide bar machine, parts should be cheap. I'm not big on the 4-point mounting system, but for $150, seems like a bargain.

MUCH much better pictures above. I could not find at least 2. Only found 1 crummy photo. I'll keep posting the pictures the guy sends me of the stringers and the prices. Hopefully theres one DEAL that comes across.

EDIT: Remember it is a glide bar machine. Good news is it is fast but if you do many ATW patterns or fan pattern you are going to run into problems. I had a 700 and if you string many large frames they may not fit on the Winn Pro II. The EAGNAS side supports did not open far enough for some rackets.

Oh yeah. I forgot to mention this as well, I should only be stringing 104 headsize all the way down to 85 since I'm going to be stringing for friends.

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You may have a problem with the larger rackets, if it's similar to the Ektelon D machines. Someone was offering an upgrade to use a Gamma 6-point mount, but that's an added cost. Probably more than what you are getting the machine for.

Ok, well I should be meeting him in about 3-4 hours from now so ill test it out. What should i do before buying a second-hand stringer thats crank?

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Bring your biggest racket with you and mount it.

As for things to look for, loose or broken parts. Make sure the crank turns easily with no string and with string to check the lock out. Last but not least make sure the tension adjustment is not warn. There is a dial ring with numbers that tell you the increments between the lines. Make sure that is not loose. That's the most common thing I've seen broken on a crank.

Sorry for the late reply. I met the guy 2 hours late and was talking with him for about 40 minutes? He was showing me that everything worked and took a while to unload. He included 7 sets of synthetic guts ( various ). The stringer works amazing. Crank style are MUCH faster for me to use. Pictures are on its way tomorrow morning. Had too much fun that i strung 3 racquets and took a bit of time!

Yes! It sure did. I've been spending HOURS cleaning the machine from dust and rust. After a majority of it got cleaned off ( after 3 hours ) there is about 30% left of it to clean. I'm planning on making the glide bars slide more easily ( not where the clamps are. The end pieces that attach to the base. ). But what should i use for that specific purpose?

I would use a softer brush first like a nylon bristle, before using a metal brush. If using a metal brush, use a brass brush first before using a harder steel brush. You really just want to take off the surface rust. Most of the time it can be wiped off with a rag and WD-40.

There is a spray rust inhibitor and lubricant made by GM/AC Delco a while back. I used to use it on rusted bolts, and after a day or so the rust was gone and the bolts look brand new. I have a part number somewhere around here.

Hm ok. As of right now, I just put some rubbing alcohol onto the teeth of the clamps ( looked into the box he gave me and found 1 extra clamp for more open string patterns ) and does it matter if 1 of the teeth are missing? I didn't feel like it was a problem so i just strung normally.

Forgot to mention, i tried the Baking Soda + vinegar method to remove rust and it worked very faintly. I see the spots where i brushed the most at and i could see the reflective metal on the area that the crank rolls on.

Sorry for bumping the thread, but is it possible to add the V support mounts on the 4 point mounting system? The Eagnas 700 looked VERY similar to this so i was wondering if they sold replacement pieces for the supports.

Sorry for bumping the thread, but is it possible to add the V support mounts on the 4 point mounting system? The Eagnas 700 looked VERY similar to this so i was wondering if they sold replacement pieces for the supports.

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Those wing mounts were ment for badminton rackets. There is a 6 point upgrade kit someone was selling a while back for a Gamma 4000. It was basically an adaptor so you can use the Gamma 5003 style 6-point mount, which you had to buy from Gamma.

Sorry for bumping the thread, but is it possible to add the V support mounts on the 4 point mounting system? The Eagnas 700 looked VERY similar to this so i was wondering if they sold replacement pieces for the supports.

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For AndyRoo ; Yes it is possible to add the V side mounts that fit at the 3 and 9 oclock positions on the side mount bars on a EAG-700 stringer. Mine had the original round vertical pins that did on OK job , but I figured the V blocks would be better. And they are. I bought them off Eagnas (Maxline) a few months ago and dealt with a lady called Michele there, who was very helpfull. They supply them as two separate parts, the nylon V block and a round pin that it locates off. This pin drops into the holes already in your side bars. However I thought i could improve on that a little, and dispensed with those pins and made up threaded-stepped nut that fitted under on the hole in the bar, and used a allen head bolt down thru the V block and lightly pinched up on the new nut. This eliminated all slop in the side bar mount and also allowed the V block to still pivot and fit to the racquet frame nicely. I removed those 2 flat plastic pads at the end of each side bar to give me more flexibility for different racquets.
I did take some pics at the time so let me know if you want a pic of what I did. It make my words a bit clearer.

pictures would be great! I was thinking about making my own supports with the holes provided in the side

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OK, cross your fingers, I hope that below the pictures attach ok here. In the first picture that shows the individual pieces, the pin on the right hand side is the Eagnas supplied pin. I did not use this pin. I used the 6mm dia bolt on the left side with the nut that I made up. The nut you see in the pic is in its rough state but it gives you an idea of the step in it to match the dia of the existing hole in the side bar. I shortened and radiused my nut once I proved it worked ok.
The last pic shows it being used in anger with a racquet mounted. The largest racquet I have mounted so far is a 107 cu-in Prince one and there was a little bit of free play left, but not a lot. I think that some 110 racquets may push this to its limits ! I find these side mounts very good to use in practise and nice and solid.

OK, cross your fingers, I hope that below the pictures attach ok here. In the first picture that shows the individual pieces, the pin on the right hand side is the Eagnas supplied pin. I did not use this pin. I used the 6mm dia bolt on the left side with the nut that I made up. The nut you see in the pic is in its rough state but it gives you an idea of the step in it to match the dia of the existing hole in the side bar. I shortened and radiused my nut once I proved it worked ok.
The last pic shows it being used in anger with a racquet mounted. The largest racquet I have mounted so far is a 107 cu-in Prince one and there was a little bit of free play left, but not a lot. I think that some 110 racquets may push this to its limits ! I find these side mounts very good to use in practise and nice and solid.

Exactly what i was looking for. Would i be able to buy these parts off of Eagnas's website? Sorry i keep asking so much questions.

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Ok , as you have seen already one of the other posters kindly made my pics appear here
No, don't think you can order direct off their website. Well I never saw those bits there anyway. So I just dealt direct by email .
Their description is as follows:

Universal V-shaped shoulder support - plastic $6.00 ea

Stem - V-shaped shoulder support, each $6.00 ea

(Both for model EAG-700 stringer)
The piece they call the "stem" is that stepped pin in the right side of the picture of mine. You may elect not to purchase that part !

The lady I dealt with at Maxline (Eagnas) was Michele and she was helpful. And the email is maxline@eagnas.com

Ok , as you have seen already one of the other posters kindly made my pics appear here
No, don't think you can order direct off their website. Well I never saw those bits there anyway. So I just dealt direct by email .
Their description is as follows:

Universal V-shaped shoulder support - plastic $6.00 ea

Stem - V-shaped shoulder support, each $6.00 ea

(Both for model EAG-700 stringer)
The piece they call the "stem" is that stepped pin in the right side of the picture of mine. You may elect not to purchase that part !

The lady I dealt with at Maxline (Eagnas) was Michele and she was helpful. And the email is maxline@eagnas.com

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Hmm. Ok, i will plan on purchasing these parts but first, a couple questions.

1) How long did it take to ship?
2) Did you see a significant advantage with the shoulder supports?
3) Do they charge shipping?
4) Do they get in the way when stringing?

Hmm. Ok, i will plan on purchasing these parts but first, a couple questions.

1) How long did it take to ship?
2) Did you see a significant advantage with the shoulder supports?
3) Do they charge shipping?
4) Do they get in the way when stringing?

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(1) There was a 2 week delay from when I ordered until the items shipped ex Eagnas store. I think they had to order those bits in ex their factory in Taiwan or China, which is fine. No money was charged against my Visa card until the day the items shipped to me. Everything was done above board.

(2) I don't rate the shoulder supports as a "significant" advantage to me. But I like them I find this stringer to be so rigidly made and with such positive clamp downs at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions, that its difficult to imagine a racquet being pulled shorter than unstrung length (while in the stringer), when pulling the mains. So to my uneducated eye, whether you strung with or without these side supports would not be a big deal.

(3) Yes, they charge shipping, which is fair enough. Since I live in New Zealand my shipping would be quite a bit more than what you will pay, so I cant quote you their USA rates.

(4) No, I don't notice them getting in the way at all when stringing. But I am not a super fast wizz-kid in stringing, so maybe such a stringer may catch a string on a support now and then.

Ok. As of right now, I'm currently making some of my own supports with some spare nuts and bolts i had. And also thinking about using my scrap unused replacement grip for some padding. I guess ill see if my supports help or not. If they don't, ill pick up some Eagnas ones.

EDIT: What would i be able to do to remove this part? Its getting in the way with my "Homemade" side supports and the plastic piece when stringing like an APD

EDIT: What would i be able to do to remove this part? Its getting in the way with my "Homemade" side supports and the plastic piece when stringing like an APD
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I think you are referring to the flat plastic plate on the end of the side support arm. It serves no purpose once you have V block side supports as the racquet is held between the 2 sides of the V now.
This plate is help on with two aluminium pop rivets. They remove quite easily if you use a drill a bit wider than the inside dia of the rivet. Just drill down lightly keeping an eye on things and as you proceed the top-hat of the rivet will just fall off. You then just use a round punch or tool to gently tap the remained of the rivet down and out. Just take it easy when you do it and will be no problem. Stick a block of wood under each arm to take the weight while you are drilling.
All the best.