DIY Easy Adjustable Crib Skirt

Fun fact. When you go out in public and people ask you when your baby is due and you say “tomorrow,” they pretty much freak out, expecting you to have the kid immediately in their hair salon/restaurant/grocery store, etc. If I’d know it was that much fun I’d have been saying that for weeks.

All that to say, no baby yet. So, I’m here to tell you how to give birth to an easy, adjustable crib skirt, designed especially for the popular Baby Mod Olivia crib from, of all places, Wal-Mart.

And when I tried it on, it was a total flop because the detail portion of the skirt hung behind the rail and in the drop between the rail and the floor. So, I knew I needed to rethink my strategy and go for an all-over print AND, I wanted the skirt to stop at the rail because, to me, it ruins the lines of the crib when the skirt hangs beneath it.

So, that led me to to Etsy shopping and blog searching until I found this post and realized the best way to get what I wanted was (like so many other things) to do it myself.

Instead of a traditional crib skirt with a platform connecting them, I decided to make separate panels with ties. That way, as the crib frame drops lower to the ground as the baby grows, all I have to do to shorten the skirt is to tie it higher onto the mattress frame. And, I could make them as short as I needed to.

If you’d like to do this and have the same crib, here are the measurements I used. In general though, you measure the width of the mattress frame on both the short and long sides and the height of the drop you’d like, whether that’s to the rail like I did or to the floor.

I ordered 3 yards, which was more than enough. It’s best to use a 54″ upholstery fabric because it will span the width of the two long crib sides. I also decided to use muslin to back the panels and give them a little more weight to hang better. I did not worry about the pattern wrapping around the crib in perfect alignment, but depending on your pattern and your pickiness, you may want to take that into consideration when deciding on yardage.

I sewed the panels right sides together, marking where to leave an opening between the fabrics to attach ties. Then I flipped the panels right-side-out through those openings after they were stitched.

For ties, I cut 10 strips of fabric about 2″ each. My pattern was evenly spaced, so it was pretty easy to cut following the fabric pattern vs. measuring.

I did not do it this way (long story), but what you SHOULD do is fold the cut edges in (then iron) and then in half (then iron) and then stitch them up. Put 2 on each of the short panels and 3 on each of the long panels.

And when you’re done…you end up with these:

I went ahead and made panels for all 4 sides, even though 2 sides of my crib are against walls. I figured if I ever rearranged I would be less inspired to make new panels at that point rather than just do it all at once now. So, you could make fewer panels if you wanted to. Your call.

Then, I just tied them onto the crib frame. Easy peasy.

And to solve any gaping, I just used a little ghetto piece of scotch tape.

Once the mattress is on, you can’t even tell that it’s not a proper crib skirt! And, like I said, as the platform moves down all I have to do is tie the panels further up into the frame.

So that is it! If you can sew a few straight lines, then you are golden. And you may end up saving yourself some cash in the process, though I rarely find sewing projects save me a whole bunch of money (especially once you factor in time), rather it’s the benefit of getting exactly what I want!

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So funny… my mom (Carmen’s amiga) sent me your website and said “look at the cute bed skirt she made.” I had the exact same issue with the same Pottery Barn cribskirt – the lines aren’t visible when the crib is in the highest setting! But I’m lazy and I kept it. WIll catch up with your blog for future ideas

o.K., I just popped over from your comment on MFAMB randomly! A- Your baby is BEAUTIFUL! and so F’n CUTE!! and B- We have the same taste in pillow fabric. I have THE same fabric on my living room couch and LOVE it.

See here-http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XU8KDLZY0F0/UZZ4m-TVS9I/AAAAAAAAFI0/a5TzVGkjRDc/s1600/couch.jpg

Just out of curiosity why did you choose to have a backing if you were already working with a heavy fabric? I thought that you generally only use a backing on soft, lightweight cottons. BTW love your tutorial

Kristin, I just wanted it to be a little heavier and more finished so that it would drape better. It’s definitely not necessary, but I think it makes for a nicer end product. So glad you liked the tutorial!