I've been looking around a lot and couldn't find very many "How To's" for the Radiator. I have a 2000 WJ 4.7L V8 Quadra Drive with Tow package and I did the radiator Removal yesterday. It took about 3.5 hours moving at a moderate/easy pace.
I'm writing this out of memory so if I'm a little off bear with me I will be as detailed as I can be to help keep you from breaking stuff.
I only have a few pictures because I forgot to take them while I was doing the job.

Tools you will need:
-Patience (move slow and think stuff through when you get stuck or you will break stuff)
-Large fluid catch tank
-Phillips Screwdriver #2 should work fine
-Flat head screw Driver
-Slip pliers (adjustable pliers with notches to make wider opening, if you
don't know what that is)
-Long needle nose pliers
-T30 Torx (socket works best)
-6" ratchet extension
-12" ratchet extension
-5/32 socket
-10MM socket
-10MM Box/open end wrench
-7/8 Box/open end wrench
-2 Gallons of Antifreeze/coolant (mixture to wherever is best for your climate)
-Magnetic screw holding tray to keep your screws from getting lost (One of the best investments you can make when doing any work to your vehicle)
-Flashlight/shop light

Ok to start remove the front bumper which consists of fender clips/fasteners inside the wheel wells, 2 10mm screws that hold the fender in inside the wheel well and I believe 4 phillips screws on the top, also there are 3 fasteners on the underside of the bumper. Unplug the harness' for the fog lights and also the thermometer if you have one.

Next is the grille which has a few phillips head screws I believe 3 down on the front and a few up top possible 10mm and also all the screws/bolts for the headlights. Should all be 10mm and a couple T-30 Torx screws. There will be two on brackets in the front as well which should be both Torx, then the headlight assembly for the plastic mounts on the bottom are Torx screws.
Once you have all these off apply pressure to each side of the fender/headlights to get it to "pop" free and then put this aside as well.
There is some other molding underneath that you only need to disconnect one side and swing it off to the side to work on it.
Once you have the front bumper off and this underside molding which has 3 10mm screws then remove lower radiator hose from the radiator and let the fluid all drain into the tank, once this is off then remove the radiator cap to help speed up the draining.

Next you will need to unbolt the Power Steering cooler which is a little box right in front of the A/C cooling tank.

Then remove the bolts that hold the A/C cooling tank free, but DO-NOT remove the plugs on the passenger side, If you are using a 13mm on the bolts then you are wrong and will end up with a hand covered in R134A refrigerant and you will have to recharge your system. I did this so don't make my mistake. Leave the connections plugged in and bolted down. Move the A/C tank off to the side.

Next there will be 2 10mm screws that you will need to undo from the radiator so you can move it around and also disconnect the top radiator hose from Radiator.

Now take your 7/8 open end wrench and take off the transmission cooler lines from the radiator. They will be the two big nut looking things on the passenger side of the radiator, one up top and one down near the bottom.

Once you have everything disconnected and radiator has drained then you can remove the radiator.

Once you have the radiator off, remove the plastic fan shroud housing, switch the screw retaining clips over from the old radiator to the new one and also take off the plastic fan shrouding and move it over to the new radiator.
Note: there are also two screw retaining clips that will be for mounting the A/C cooling tank that need to be switched over.

Put the radiator cap on the new radiator to ensure that no debris fall into your system.
Once you have everything swapped over make sure that you have the rubber grommets on the bottom of the radiator and that the old ones are not in the frame at the base where the radiator will mount, then put the radiator into position and reconnect the transmission lines first, then get the lower hose on and then the upper hose. Once all hoses are connected and the radiator is seated correctly lock it down by putting back in the 10mm screws to hold the radiator in place. Then reinstall the A/C cooling tank and bolt it down, then the Power steering cooling tank.

Reverse the removal instructions from here to re-install everything.

Once you have everything back in place get a funnel (one that connects to where the radiator cap is by use of a cap locker and has a plug) and fill your radiator full, Make sure everything is clamped down and tight before doing this!
Burp the system as you slowly fill the funnel to push out the air bubbles in your system. If you don't get all the air bubbles out you WILL blow your head gasket.
Once it seems like there are no more air bubbles coming out start your engine and let it run adding fluid as you go make sure there are no leaks from anywhere and if there is shut off vehicle IMMEDIATELY! Make sure there is always coolant in the funnel you don't want it to suck into the radiator. You will need to run the vehicle for at least 20 mins while filling and idle the vehicle around 2000 RPM's once up to full operating pressure, don't idle the vehicle until it has reached full operating pressure or you may still blow your head gasket. Don't worry about the bleeder screw, you won't need it.

Once both hoses Upper and Lower are HOT and no more air bubbles are coming out then you shut off the vehicle, plug the funnel and place the cap onto the radiator, then top off the over flow reservoir.

After all is said and done go for a test drive and make sure all is working correctly. You may need to add ATF (automatic transmission fluid) but not likely.

Hope this helps you all out I will put the few pictures I do have up. These are what it looks like with the radiator off and also a couple pictures of the Transmission cooling line nuts.

I did this this weekend too and pretty much did the exact same steps you did. Except I disconnected the transmissions lines below under the car rather than at the radiator. I didn't need to move the power steering cooler but maybe you had to. Good write up.

I just did this job, and what a messy gross job. Three things I'd point out:

- The lower radiator hose is more of a pain in the *** than it seems. I would suggest buying a new one when you do this job and just slice off the old one.
- The lower transmission line is in a VERY difficult spot. Undo the top one first and be prepared to get pissed off. You will want a 7/8" stubby crescent wrench for this job, or perhaps a 7/8" crows foot would make it nice (I don't know, my set left off at 3/4")
- The two bolts holding the radiator in are covered by rubber flaps on the left and right. Yank on them and you will see them. I spend 20 minutes wondering why the hell the Jeep was moving up and down instead of the radiator because they were hidden. I undid the AC radiator thinking those bolts went through everything, LOL.

Bonus:

- Use a crescent wrench to remove the nut holding the AC radiator on that's behind the power steering cooler.

Unbolting the trans cooler lines from the radiator is the only way I was able to get the radiator out. The bent aluminum lines would not let the radiator come up & out for me if I just disconnected the hose clamps at the transmission end.

Clean up & lube the headlight housing sockets at the frame for easy reassembly and for when you finally break down and order a new set from e-bay as opposed to fighting with a drill & polish kit.

If you ever thought about swapping the thermostat, now's a good time to consider it.

The lower metal plate that covers the gap between the A/C condensor & radiator my be quite rusty by now. Pull it off, wire brush/sand it shiny and give it a coat of paint.

Drain, remove & flush the coolant resevoir. Make sure the drain line to it is not clogged.

Be very careful in reinstalling the bolts that hold the radiator to the fan shroud. Some are longer than others and a long one in a shallow hole will poke right through the new radiator (ask me how I know).

Be likewise careful in putting back on the trans cooler fittings. Don't cross thread them.

If the radiator leaks ATF from the radiator side of the brass fitting, the new radiator is defective and should be exchanged. It happens...

After refilling the radiator and driving, be sure to check/fill the resevoir every day or so as the system will continue to burp air and need filling at the overflow resevoir.

I just got halfway done with mine. I have everything loose, but ill fight with removal later. Guess what? The lower tranny line decided to spin the male port instead of loosening. That was a fun 45 mins.

If that is the case please show all of us how that is done so now one else has to go through all these steps to replace a Rad

There are quite a few threads on here showing it done if you have a quick search although i'm sure it's probably easier to do it your way even if it does take a bit longer. There's not a lot of space in there.......it's even worse if you have a CRD, like me as you have an intercooler in the way too!

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There are quite a few threads on here showing it done if you have a quick search although i'm sure it's probably easier to do it your way even if it does take a bit longer. There's not a lot of space in there.......it's even worse if you have a CRD, like me as you have an intercooler in the way too!

There's not a lot of room with the 4.7, it took some "lovin" sliding the rad and hood shroud out between the A/C condenser and the "water pump fan"

Agree with bumper/grill removal. It comes off so easily and gives more wiggle room to get the assembly out from the metal fan blades & the shroud.
Plus it's an opportunity to clean out the area of debris.