Hi Geary. I've shortened those stacks many times by carefully removing the end lam using an X-acto blade pressed between the crowns on all three sides to break the powder coat without deforming the lam too much (*and it can be flattened afterwards anyway). Afterwards, you can do the same with less car to remove as many lams as you wish, and them reinstall the end lam using CA glue or epoxy and some clips to hold it while it all cures.

The long stack will of course work, but the powder coating is very thick on these arms, and while the stuff is generally brittle, it is pretty durable. If you do chip it a little, some JB Weld applied with a toothpick makes for an easy repair before winding. The long and heavy stack (*these lams have a LOT of iron) will make for a slower "wind-up", but the arm should run well anyway. I figure you may already know this, but wanted to offer this just in case!

A 53 wind is saying 25 of 23 correct or not? Let me know when you're gonna test that, I'd like to unplug all the electronics in my room to prevent any power drain here in Ohio! That arm looks real nice, good job!

A 53 wind is saying 25 of 23 correct or not? Let me know when you're gonna test that, I'd like to unplug all the electronics in my room to prevent any power drain here in Ohio! That arm looks real nice, good job!

I have two drag chassis's built with John H prepared 36d motors I only ran them for the first time last friday night (besides running in the big 36d class in the dc punk rods & rails proxy race which my mustang won).

So the best I got out of them so far is about a .95 out of both cars just under 60mph there are still a few things I can do to them to make them go faster & it was the first night the track was open so I hope to go faster still.

The Mustang has dual segment neos with a 63 wind & the Dragnoda P thingie drag car has arcos & a 94 wind.