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INSTALLTION INSTRUCTIONS – Mule 600/610 (4010 Trans skip to pg 4) 1. Place Roof Panel on top of UTV Roll cage and center front to back, and left to right. 2. Using Figure 1 Below – place UTV Roof Mounting Brackets around roll cage bar and using a marker, mark the position of the holes needed in the roof for each Roof Mounting bracket . Figure 1 Copyright 2007 DiamondBack Automotive Accessories, Inc. Page 3 3. Next, remove the roof from the roll cage and using a drill with 1/4″ bit, drill holes using the marks as a guide. 4. Cut (4) 3″ strips of adhesive foam and apply to roof in where mounting brackets are positioned to prevent roof rattling once mounted. Foam should run in the direction of the roll cage as shown in Figure 1 above. 5. Next, reposition the roof on the roll cage according to step 1. 6. Prior to attaching the roof mount brackets, cut the remaining adhesive foam in half and apply one section to the roof in the center of the roof where roof and each roll cage bar meet as shown in Figures 1 above. If additional tape is required to prevent rattling it can be purchased from any hardware store as window sealant foam tape. 7. Next, attach the roof mount brackets according to Figure 2. Use channel locks or pliers to hold top of carriage bolt and turn nut with 7/16″ socket.

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1. Remove the plastic lower front cover. 2. Remove the two bolts on the left side mud shield that connect to the frame for easier access. 3. Install the winch to the winch mount using the hardware supplied with the winch. 4. Install the winch and mount per the illustration using the provided U-Bolts, flat washers and nuts around the frame tubes and through the mount. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely. 5. Install the roller fairlead to the winch mount using (2) 5/16″ x 3/4″ bolts and 5/16″ nylock nuts provided. (Rollers should turn freely. NOTE: Bottom roller may need to be removed to run wire rope through. 6. Using the instructions provided with the winch, wire accordingly. 7. Reinstall the two bolts from the mud shield. 8. Reinstall the plastic lower front cover. NOTE: For some winches, this cover may need to be trimmed so it does not rub

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1. PRELIMINARY: 1.1 Remove the six 6 mm. screws and plastic skid / splash shield from the bottom front of the vehicle frame. (These bolts and plastic skid / splash shield will not be reused snow plow mounting frame installed onto the vehicle.) 1.2 If the vehicle has the Kawasaki optional brush guard installed, it will have to be removed and then reinstalled after the snow plow mounting frame is installed. (The brush guard will fit with the snow plow mounting frame installed first.) 2. VEHICLE MOUNTING FRAME 2.1 Position the vehicle mounting frame (13) under the front of the vehicle so that the six holes (with pipe spacers) line up with the six 6 mm. threaded holes that the plastic skid / splash shield was attached with and the upper plate is through the large oval hole in the vehicle plastic fascia. Fasten loosely using 6mm. x 1.0mm. x 30mm. bolts (33) , 6mm. lock washers (35) and 6mm. flat washers (34). 2.2 Place a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the front cross tube behind the plastic fascia and through each set of holes in the flange of the upper plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of two “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.3 Install a 5/16″-18 “U” bolt (36) around the lower frame tubes and through each set of slotted holes in the lower plate of the vehicle mounting frame (total of four “U” bolts). Fasten loosely using 5/16″ flat washers (41), 5/16″ lock washers (40), and 5/16″-18 nuts (42). 2.4 Tighten all the fasteners holding the vehicle mounting frame to the vehicle starting with the 6mm. bolts

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1.)Begin by loosening the lug nuts on both front tires. Raise the unit, using a suitable lifting device or procedure, until the front tires are off the ground. If using a floor jack with stands, chock the rear wheels to prevent the unit from rolling. If using jack stands, make sure the stands are placed under the frame and not the body. Make sure the unit is stable and secure . 2.)Remove the tires / wheels. NOTE: Now is a good time to check the threads on the lug studs. Check for rust, pulled threads or other deterioration that could cause a stud/thread failure. 3.) The first thing to do is remove the front cowl and trunk on the bike. You can accomplish this by removing all the bolts (screws) around the perimeter of the cowl and removing some plastic “snap rivets”. To remove the rivets simply pull the center section up and then the rest will follow. 4.)Place a floor jack, or other suitable device, beneath the left side lower control arm. This is to prevent damage to the tie rod or slip yoke boot while disassembling the lower control arm and strut. Using a 14mm socket, remove the two retaining nuts and lock washers on the top of the struts. 5.)Leaning the strut forward toward the headlamp buckets will put the strut in position to allow you to reach over the top and place the strut spacer in place. Install the strut spacer on top of the coil retainer and tightening the nuts. Install the supplied gasket on top of the strut spacer, and re-install the strut assembly

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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(This is for clarification only. Other parts not listed in Art. 2.5 & 2.6 can be altered or replaced. Change of specification means modification, changes or removal of the parts.) 2.6.1 Change of compression ratio is allowed. 2.6.2 Setting of carburetor, attachment or size change of air funnel. 2.6.3 Inlet opening of fuel tank for fuel charge may be modified but cannot be relocated. 2.6.4 Change of fuel pipe and fuel cork. 2.6.5 Change of exhaust pipe and muffler, but must have silencer. 2.6.6 Material of clutch discs and specifications of spring. Hand clutch is allowed. 2.6.7 Gear ratios are free. 2.6.8 Starting device and parts relative to this device may be removed. 2.6.9 Modification or removal of air cleaner box, wire harness and control wires. 2.6.10 Removal of speedometer (including meter gearbox and cable.) 2.6.11 Removal of drive chain case and cover. Change of drive chain is allowed. 2.6.12 Change of final gear ratio is allowed. 2.6.13 Attachment of bead stopper and balance weight to tyre. 2.6.14 Modification and change of rear brake part is allowed. 2.6.15 Frame body may be strengthened. 2.6.16 Modification and change to brackets and pedals including footrest. 2.6.17 Front suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However, the following internal parts of the fork can be modified: Shims, hydraulic piston, oil passages, springs and spacers. 2.6.18 Attachment of stabilizer to strengthen or reinforcing rear swing arm is allowed. 2.6.19 Removal of dust seals. 2.6.20 Rear suspension unit must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. However rear suspension unit is free. The rear linkage must remain as originally produced by the manufacturer. 2.6.21 Handle bars, clutch and front brake lever may be changed by an after market copy. Clutch springs may be changed. 2.6.22 Steering dampers may be fitted. They must not act in any way as a steering lock limiting device. 2.6.23 Materials of streamlining and material of seat cowling. (However, expensive materials such as carbon fibre and kevlar are not allowed). 2.6.24 Removal of rear mudguard and side cover. Front mudguard may be cut but not less than 6 inches from the front fork on original part. 2.6.25 All lubricants are free 2.6.26 Adjusting and polishing any parts are allowed. Adjusting is defined as : “To select each part or assembly complete with-in the limit of single or total tolerance” (i.e. that of valve clearance, ignition timing etc.) 2.6.27 Cutting unnecessary stays is

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Boring and Honing Procedures 1. Check again for burrs on cylinder gasket surfaces and remove burrs before performing Step 2. 2. Install original head and base gaskets, CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part Number 33446-A) and TORQUE BOLTS (Part Number 33446-4). Tighten TORQUE BOLTS following tightening procedure given in the INSTALLATION, CYLINDER HEAD procedure in the ENGINE section of the Service Manual. NOTE Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets, simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary as much as 0.001 inch without torque plate. 3. The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 inch under the desired finish size. 1 WARNING CAUTION CAUTION 1 WARNING Kit Number 4. Hone the cylinder to its finished size (See Figure 1) using a 280 grit rigid hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing must be done with torque plates attached. All honing must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60 degree crosshatch pattern. 5. See Figure 1. After machining and honing, chamfer the bottom edge of the cylinder liner. the chamfer provides a beveled surface for easier installation of the cylinder over the piston rings. Break leading edge of liner to a flat surface. The bottom edge of the liner will be somewhat sharp after machining. This sharp edge could easily be damaged during installation of the cylinder. Piston Installation The 1200cc pistons have an arrow on the top of the piston. This arrow must face the front of the engine when piston is installed. There is no front cylinder piston or rear cylinder piston. New pistons can be installed in either cylinder. Check piston rings for proper side clearance and end gap (See XLH Service Manual). Be sure end gaps of adjacent rings are installed 90 degrees apart. Assembly Follow assembly and torque specifications given in the ENGINE section of the applicable Service Manual. Replace original gaskets, O-rings and seals with new components furnished in kit. NOTE Push rod covers on 1991 and later models are one-piece and the correct O-rings are as follows: Bottom – Part Number 17944-89 Upper – Part Number 11190 Engine Break In For the first 500 miles, to wear-in critical parts, observe these few simple driving rules: During the first 50 miles, keep the engine speed below 2500 RPM in any gear. Up to 500 miles, vary the engine speed, avoiding any steady speed for long distances. Engine speed up to 3000 RPM is permissible in any gear. Avoid fast starts at wide open throttle. Drive slowly until engine warms up. Avoid running the engine at extremely low RPM in higher gears. 2 of 3 -J00001 1200cc CYLINDER FINAL BORE SIZE AFTER HONING STANDARD BORE DIAMETER 3.4980 inch + 0.0002 inch Figure 1. Bottom Edge of Cylinder Liner Chamfer i04852 Break Edge to Flat Surface