Insalata's is one of those rock-solid restaurants that has been going about its business for more than a decade, often with little fanfare.

Yet with its homey Mediterranean fare and the skill of chef-owner Heidi Insalata Krahling, the restaurant has become a community touchstone in Marin. On any night, you'll find families and empty nesters celebrating milestones and lots of twosomes on dates. It's a restaurant that easily accommodates them all.

The modern interior, which seats more than 140, is spread over two levels, but just about everyone has a view of the open kitchen in the back and the artwork by Laura Parker on the walls.

In the past few years, the menu has become more focused, which is good for both the kitchen and the diner. It starts with a collection of tapas and mezzes, including a signature trio of dips - hummus, red lentil spread and taramasalata briny from cured and salted fish roe - served with warm pita ($12).

Aside from an organic greens salad ($9) with balsamic vinaigrette, the restaurant's shaved root vegetable salad ($9) with a tangle of parsnips, carrots and other root vegetables dotted with walnuts, loads of pecorino cheese and a pomegranate black pepper vinaigrette is a great way to begin a meal.

And Krahling also makes one of the best pastas ($16) I've had of late: al dente pappardelle lightly coated with a wild mushroom ragout with pork and fennel meatballs and a moderate hit of spice that hides under a generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and fresh parsley.

The other pasta is orecchiette ($15) with roasted cauliflower, white beans, potato and pancetta. Our waiter, who was pleasant and helpful throughout, had the kitchen split the pasta when she realized we'd be sharing. From start to finish, it was clear that the customer was appreciated.

The six main courses include a porcini-rubbed beef tenderloin ($26) that's nearly black outside and bright red inside. It's cut in two and stacked upright on the plate with roasted shallots, mushrooms, fingerling potatoes and a red wine jus.

Other choices include hearty St. Louis-style pork ribs ($26), honey-glazed pomegranate duck breast ($23) and a Greek-inspired lamb shank ($22) where the fregola underneath sops up a tomato sauce flavored with cinnamon and orange and studded with artichokes and oil-cured olives. It's a beautiful dish.

I've had few desserts better than Insalata's apple dumpling ($7). It's rich and buttery, with a caramelized pastry and apples that seem to melt into the blend. For chocolate lovers, the Pigs in Mud ($7) - dark ganache topped with a pig-shaped shortbread cookie - is a fine way to pork out and cap the meal.

Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.