That fitting is a "Self flaring" type. The tube is spread to slightly wider than normal when forced over the fitting (The upper part). Then the nut (that lower part) holds it in place because it isn't wide enough for the flared out tube to fit through.

The tubing gets very hot there, at the Heat-Exchanger inlet, and will eventually harden, crack and leak.If it is long enough, you can remove the nut, slide the nut away from the fitting, cut off the cracked end of the tubing, slide the still pliable section of the tubing up over the flare fitting and retighten the nut (JUST BARELY PAST FINGER-TIGHT IS ENOUGH, don't crush it or break the T fitting with the HE injector in it.Order some replacement tubing.I expect that that will be 6mm tubing. If your push-connect fittings down at the other end (Little F-Connector coming off the pump and primer valve) are readable, they ought to have a little 6 on the orange connector part. For the Outer diameter of the tubing they hold.

Buy a replacement when you get around to it, I'm sure espresso parts places sell it, or you can buy it by the meter at fluid-power suppliers. Get something that can withstand heat.An Amazon Listing is way too expensive, and 25 feet is way too long, but a couple bucks for a meter will last you and your neighbors with Cuadras many years.

Just lubed the valve stem. I got the black center disks out to access screw using razor blade and scuffed it up quite a bit.

Then I had a "doh!" moment when I realized there is no need to remove the cap/knob. Just loosen the nut. Once you slide it off you just unscrew the valve stem thingy by turning the knob. No need to remove knob at all!

Again - "Doh!"

Then to top it all off the scratchy friction I feel at certain points when turning the hot water knob doesn't seem to be lube related since it still does it. Its as if the threads are catching a bit on something...

Just lubed the valve stem. I got the black center disks out to access screw using razor blade and scuffed it up quite a bit.

Then I had a "doh!" moment when I realized there is no need to remove the cap/knob. Just loosen the nut. Once you slide it off you just unscrew the valve stem thingy by turning the knob. No need to remove knob at all!

Again - "Doh!"

Then to top it all off the scratchy friction I feel at certain points when turning the hot water knob doesn't seem to be lube related since it still does it. Its as if the threads are catching a bit on something...

Thanks Steve.. so far all your advice has been spot on. There is not enough slack to cut some off and use the same hose. I am not 100% sure of this.. but it looks to me like there is not enough. I can't read a size on that fitting without taking it apart. I was hoping Jim would see my post and maybe give me a size. Looks like they don't have any in stock. There is only me LOL .. I don't even know anyone else who has an Espresso machine... so no need for me to share.

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