Forget where I pulled this from, but when I last got my alignment done, Belle Tire pulled up the specs in their computer for my GXP and it matched what this says (assuming FE2 and FE3 are the same). I only needed toe adjusted so I didn't pay TOO much attention to the other specs.

The problem with most factory specs is that huge range they allow as "tolerance" like that camber setting for the G8/FE2 anything -.01 to -.67 is good. So your car is on the rack and the right wheel is -.01 and your left is -.67.. They would both be in the green.

Those HSV settings are a little more focused using tighter tolerances. If you notice the settings in the HSV column mostly fall within the range of the FE2 settings, the only exception really is a little more front camber.

Correct, just because your cars is within spec doesnt mean its in alignment. I done alignment work for years and seen it on a weekly basis were someone got an alignment and it wasnt in true alignment and had either wear and/or driveability issues.

Ok so if being in spec or "green" does not mean it is always in alignment. Then should it be down the middle of these values? I have been searching around for the last couple days, but i am trying to understand what to ask for when I go to get this done tomorrow, or what spec to be checking for off the print off. I know this may change from driver to driver, but I enjoy spirited driving on the back roads and this is my daily driver. Tire life is important, but I also want to feel connected to the road. Anyone have. I will use the HSV settings, but if I can get the tech to dial it in, does anyone have some they have found to work well? I am probably over thinking this, but have had bad luck with local alignments in the past.

If you enjoy spirited cornering, increase the negative camber to -1.0 degrees, and go to the low end of the toe-in specs. 1 degree negative camber will keep the outside tires more squarely planted in hard cornering without hurting tire wear, if you dial the toe-in back a little. If you notice the outer edges of the tires wearing, either give it even more neg camber or slow the hell down If you find the inside edges wearing, take more toe-in out of it.

Ok so if being in spec or "green" does not mean it is always in alignment. Then should it be down the middle of these values? I have been searching around for the last couple days, but i am trying to understand what to ask for when I go to get this done tomorrow, or what spec to be checking for off the print off. I know this may change from driver to driver, but I enjoy spirited driving on the back roads and this is my daily driver. Tire life is important, but I also want to feel connected to the road. Anyone have. I will use the HSV settings, but if I can get the tech to dial it in, does anyone have some they have found to work well? I am probably over thinking this, but have had bad luck with local alignments in the past.

Thanks in advance!!

Yeah, I think a good alignment guy will shoot for the actual spec and not just get it anywhere in the alignment "window". The guy at Belle Tire actually did a good job of getting it pretty darned close to the spec and it seems to track better now. Right from the factory it seemed to want to follow every imperfection in the road, so I'm not even sure it was set all that well when I bought it. Good to go now though with factory specs! I don't do road courses or anything like that, so wasn't too concerned on trying to improve on factory settings.

Good luck! And as long as you take it to a reputable place, you can always bring it back to have them re-do it for free if it doesn't feel like it's driving right. I think the place I took it to had a 12 month warranty or something like that.

Good luck! And as long as you take it to a reputable place, you can always bring it back to have them re-do it for free if it doesn't feel like it's driving right. I think the place I took it to had a 12 month warranty or something like that.

I had an elderly man drop off an early 80s F150 for an alignment one time that brought it back because the steering wheel was straight.
He said that the old way with the wheel being off center it was confortable for him to prop his arm on the door handle and cruise down the road and now with the steering wheel straight the cross bar was in the way for his hand to be lol. I pulled it back in and put the wheel were he wanted it

can i use the pedders perf. spec alignment even thought i dont have the full bushing kit like it stats??? im only doing all new struts, springs, strut mounts and possibly new control arms as well. thanks guys! also the car is getting lovells struts all the way around and still undecided on h&r, lovells, or pedders springs. i want a 1.5" on the front and a tad less in the rear. the rear i will be able to adjust the height if i need to because of the lovells rear strut set up.

I ran -1.4/-1 front/rear camber with a tiny bit of toe-out up front on my stock GXP for over 20k miles on the OEM summer tires, rotating front to back occasionally, with fairly even wear and no odd behavior. A little extra negative camber adds a noticeable amount of grip, especially up front. Keep in mind I do not take the car to the track, but it saw some spirited driving and some autocross.
YMMV

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