hi.im working on a 52 kim missing the clutch release rods,i have the left one 37279-52 but not the others.i see there is a kit available but looks like for 53 and later models,whats the differance between the 37276-52 and the 37276-53 parts?my part book shows 3 rods,and the replacement set has 4...can i use them or can they be modified to fit?...or i am a machinist and can make the two missing rods if someone can supply overall length of 37276-52 and also the smaller 37281-47.i assume the diameter is the same as the 37279-52(left) that i have.as the bore of the clutch gear looks the same all way thru...about .125 as a eyeball guess .i see that the left center 37281-47 is in the replacement set of 4 available but the others dont match my numbers.any help is greatly apreachited...sean

The four rod set is a direct replacement for the earlier set. it allows for more self centering than the early ones. The -47 rod is common to 125s also. And they aren't too big a deal to fabricate other than the left one. Oil hardening drill rod works fine! I can measure a set for you tomorrow or the next day. Work (what little I have!) is getting in the way of fun. Robbie

If one wants to use on a 52/53 K the latter release rod, the 4th one on the left that bears on the clutch release plate, one will have to source as well the later clutch hub nut and seal.

The K has a special "bandoneon" type seal with its OD crimped in the nut and the rod has a groove in it to accept the seal's ID, ie the seal ID travels with the rod, doesn't slide on it like later. These 2 parts are made of unobtainum, and if one could find one, it's likely the bandoneum seal would have harden so much over the years as to render it unusable.

Very true Patrick! I didn't even think of the nut. I just as a matter of course generally change all those bits out to the latest style for ease of availability. Thanks for pointing that out. And the one to use is the -56 part number one.Robbie

The later model nut can be modified to use with your K model main shaft, just grind the cone off it. The seal? If you are not using a Barnett wet clutch in your bike you are wasting a lot of valuable riding time. Run it with the derby cover off so it gets lots of oil in there. Make sure you use brand new High Quality metal plates between the Barnett plates. Then with the primary chain adjusted right, you wont have to be digging in there making a mess and spending hours of hassle every other week to clean the plates that never stay clean. That is why there are so many derby covers around, and cheep too. I will even send you one if you want one! Get the Red after market springs too! Set the tension with the clearance between the clutch cups and the retaining plate just like in the K model riders/owners manual. Then the clutch won't slip! Running it wet is the only way to go, know one can see in there anyway!

Barry: Run it with the derby cover off so it gets lots of oil in there... Running it wet is the only way to go, know one can see in there anyway!

Hum, sounds more like a diatribe rather than advice

Plenty out there, me included, that have ran dry clutch with the derby ON and never have any problems... My KHK don't even have a lip seal between hub and basket, just the "ejector holes", never seen it fill up with oil or slip...

thanks patrick,i have the orig hub nut and seal as well as the left orig pushrod with the groove,i will use them with the 3 others from the set and put aside the 4th left side one.as i read i man have to shorten one of the rods,i assume the thicker right one at sprocket end.any idea on how far that last pushrod sticks out the sprocket end and meets the adjusting screw?now its about .250-.375 ish...what im still missing is pn 37345-52 seal retainer at the sprocket end.does that retainer sit against the release worm and is the inside bore length slightlly shorter then the seal?i intend on just making one on a lathe.i think ill stick to the dry plates untill i see the need to fork out cash on a wet set.thanks for everyones advice.sean

The 1st rod sticking out through the sprocket nut should be sticking out far enough, about 1/4", so that it doesn't go past the seal in the nut when lever is fully pulled in...

That seal looks like a rubber flat washer stuck in a stamped tin steel holder on the inside of the nut. It is not located outside the nut... The outer OD is usually punched 3 or 4 places to keep it in.