Basic C2C Throw Pillow – Free Crochet Pattern

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My living room is so plain, and a little mismatched. I have really been wanting to add to it, and make it a little more cohesive and home-y, so I decided after the holiday custom order madness had passed that I was going to take some time to make something for my living room, and what better than some fun throw pillows constructed using a simple, basic pattern?

I made this Henrietta Rug (crochet pattern review/hack) January of last year, and it has been sitting on my living room floor since. It has held up surprisingly well being walked all over, thrown up on (by my cat, Shiloh), machine washed, and slept on (by Todd and Shiloh). I will say, if you look up close, it does show some wear/fuzz, but standing over it, you don’t notice.

The leftover yarn from this rug has been sitting in my stash, and so when I thought about these pillows, I decided to pull it out so the pillows would match the rug.

These throw pillows are part of the 2019 Make it for Me Event hosted by Elk Studio. If you aren’t familiar with it, basically it’s a event catered to designing something for ourselves to wear or display, and enjoy.

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Material Notes:

Really, you can use any yarn in your stash with respective crochet hook, and just make the square size to your pillow measurements, but I like Red Heart’s Super Saver for my home projects because it’s really durable, and machine washes well.

My two sample pillows were worked to fit 14″ and 16″ pillow forms, and respectively, I used 375 yards (202 grams), and 460 yards (248 grams).

Measurements:

My samples are worked to 14″ and 16″ – and will stretch to fit a pillow form one inch bigger, but I have got sizes from 12″ through 27″ below to fit a square pillow form.

Gauge:

5 Boxes = 4.25″ Wide by 4.13″ Tall

Abbreviations:

DC – Double Crochet

SC – Single Crochet

Pattern Notes:

Pillow grows from the bottom corner upward.

Beginning chain 2 counts as a double crochet.

A box is comprised of four double crochet’s.

The “space under the same chain joined to” is defined as the space between the last two double crochets of the previous rows box.

Working the final double crochet into the top of the chain from the previous row helps to keep the edge more even. After completing the first box, you may also need to lightly tug on it to keep it even as well.

In Border, chain 1 does not count as a stitch, and join to the first stitch.

There are a lot of words and numbers to this pattern, and that can seem intimidating or daunting, but basically, you are going to create a square that is the size of your pillow, then you will create a rectangle that is half the size of your pillow as the height and the same size of your pillow as the width, and then another rectangle that is 4″ taller than the other rectangle, by the same width. To assemble, scroll down to my “Assembly” instructions.

Pattern:

Pillow Front:

Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)

Row 2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2. Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

Row 3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2; (II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (3 Boxes)

Rows 4 – 11 (18, 20, 23, 26, 27, 29, 33): Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end, you will have the same number of boxes as rows.

Row 12 (19, 21, 24, 27, 28, 30, 34): Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(IV) (chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 9x (16x, 18x, 21x, 24x, 25x 27x, 31x);Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. [10 (17, 19, 22, 25, 26, 28, 32) Boxes]

Row 13 (20, 22, 25, 28, 31, 35) – 3 Boxes Left: Using the previous row as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (IV) one less time each row to decrease the number of boxes by one each row. Continue working until you have 3 boxes left.

2 Boxes: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

1 Box: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to. Skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)

Border: Chain 1. SC into the space just to the right, in between two boxes, (chain 2, SC into the next space in between boxes) around, working a single SC into each corner. When back around, work final chain 2, and then join to the 1st SC, and fasten off.

Pillow Back, Bottom:

Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)

Row 2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2. Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

Row 3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2; (II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (3 Boxes)

Rows 4 – 8 (9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17): Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end, you will have the same number of boxes as rows.

Row 9 (10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18): Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 6x (7x, 8x, 10x, 11x, 12x, 13x, 15x);Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. [8 (9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17) Boxes]

Row 10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19): Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 6x (7x, 8x, 10x, 11x, 12x, 13x, 15x); Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. [8 (9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17) Boxes]

In Even Rows (no increasing or decreasing): Repeat the last two rows until you have 11 (18, 20, 23, 26, 27, 29, 33) boxes wide.

1st Decrease Row: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(IV) (chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 5x (6x, 7x, 9x, 10x, 11x, 12x, 14x);Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. [7 (8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16) Boxes]

Next Decrease Row – 3 Boxes Left: Using the previous row as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (IV) one less time each row to decrease the number of boxes by one each row. Continue working until you have 3 boxes left.

2 Boxes: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

1 Box: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to. Skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)

Border: Chain 1. SC into the space just to the right, in between two boxes, (chain 2, SC into the next space in between boxes) around, working a single SC into each corner. When back around, work final chain 2, and then join to the 1st SC, and fasten off.

Pillow Back, Top:

Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)

Row 2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2. Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

Row 3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2; (II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, DC into the top of the last stitch. (3 Boxes)

Rows 4 – 13 (14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23): Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end, you will have the same number of boxes as rows.

Row 14 (15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 24): Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 11x (12x, 13x, 15x, 16x, 17x, 18x, 21x);Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. [13 (14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23) Boxes]

Row 15 (16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 22, 25): Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2, slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 11x (12x, 13x, 15x, 16x, 17x, 18x, 21x); Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the top of the last stitch. [13 (14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23) Boxes]

In Even Rows (no increasing or decreasing): Repeat the last two rows until you have 11 (18, 20, 23, 26, 27, 29, 33) boxes wide.

1st Decrease Row: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;(IV) (chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) 10x (11x, 12x, 14x, 15x, 16x, 17x, 20x);Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. [12 (13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22) Boxes]

Next Decrease Row – 3 Boxes Left: Using the previous row as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (IV) one less time each row to decrease the number of boxes by one each row. Continue working until you have 3 boxes left.

2 Boxes: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 2 DC into the space under the same chain joined to, skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (2 Boxes)

1 Box: Turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd stitch, and each of the next 2. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space under the same chain joined to. Skip the next 3 DC, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)

Border: Chain 1. SC into the space just to the right, in between two boxes, (chain 2, SC into the next space in between boxes) around, working a single SC into each corner. When back around, work final chain 2, and then join to the 1st SC, and fasten off.

Weave in ends now.

Assembly:

Lay the pillow front (biggest) piece down, wrong side facing up.

Lay the back bottom (smallest) piece down on top of the front with right side facing up. The bottom edges of both pieces should be aligned.

Lay the back top piece down on top of the front with right side facing up. The top edges of both pieces should be aligned, and it should overlap the back bottom piece.

Now, either pin in place, and just carefully flip over so the pillow front piece is facing you.

Working through both layers, insert hook into any single crochet – I did so at the top right, after the corner.

Working through both layers: Chain 1. (SC into the SC, 2 SC into the next chain space) across…

When you get to the overlapped part, you will continue working in the same pattern, but through all three layers.

Continue in the same manner as the last two steps all the way around. When back to the beginning, slip stitch join to the 1st SC, and fasten off.

Please feel free to make and sell your own C2C Throw Pillows using this pattern, but please DO NOT claim this pattern as your own nor should you sell my pattern, and DO NOT re-publish my photos as your own. DO NOT copy and paste my pattern anywhere, link to it instead.

The pillows look lovely, thank you for sharing the pattern at The Really Crafty Link Party. Mostly, though, I ‘m fascinated by the rug you made. I’ve been thinking about making one too lately, but I’m afraid to spend a lot of time working on it to have it get ugly too quickly. It’s good to know yours has been holding out well.
Pinned.

I always worry with how the yarn will hold up to wear and machine washing (for any project). I am quite surprised actually how well it has held up being washed a bunch of times. I think a better yarn choice would be t-shirt yarn. I really want to make one in this, or a cord of some sort… Not sure

Hi there! I'm Alexandra, and Welcome to EyeLoveKnots! My passion is crafting with a huge love for crochet & plastic canvas crafts (oh, & baking!). My list could go on for miles though. I am also a cat mom to two, and big time coffee lover.

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