Thanks man. Don't forget to rotate the front diff carrier to raise the diff to the highest position.

[quote"630rick"]so what parts will be needed to complete this, wide angel shafts, yokomo drb knuckles. what c-hubs an also what turnbuckles are you using?[/quote]

Wide angle shafts & drb knuckles (I use the plastic ones). I use stock c hubs.. I tried some yokomo 7* faster c hubs but lost alot of steering angle. For turnbuckles I used Traxxas Revo for ends (the large ones, & trim them down a bit.) and a 4 mm threaded stud. You could also use 8.32 All Thread rod. Actually anything similar will work.

This steering bridge did a perfect job. I ended up dremeling the steering bridge to give my belt a little more slack. Im using the HB Counter-Steer kit with a HB front one way. I drilled a hole right behind the kingpin on stock knuckles and shaved them. I installed Jetracing 8° C hubs, they work perfectly, no loss of steering angle, and they do a good job of lining the steering knuckles with the steering bridge. Overall very satisfied with this product.

Heres a couple pics of the knuckles. All I did was drill a hole behind the innermost setting, cut it, and rounded out the edges. As for the C hubs, I ordered them from Jethobbies. Their website was messed up, I just emailed them and they sent me an invoice.

Thanks for all the pics & the links. I'm definitely gonna look into those c hubs. I tried getting the yokomo c hubs to work but I couldn't trim them enough without them being super weak & flimsy. Did you modify your stock cvd's for more angle? I found that mine bound up slightly past stock angles and would chatter if forced.

FunkRenegade is correct, it's inline with the kingpin. Right behind the hole closest to the cvds. I have not experienced any binding with the stock cvds, atleast with the front oneway, I have not tried it with any other diff though. I have also noticed with the c-hubs it has given it more travel. Atleast with the links I'm using, it was barely able to bottom out, it's still doesn't have stock travel but it's more than I need. I use 2 shock ends from a Losi Mini 8ight with a 20mm 3mm screw which I cut the head off of. They are the perfect distance without having to shave the shock ends what so ever, atleast for my setup. If I need more camber I could shave them a little, but it's okay for now.

Glad you are liking the bridge. those would the the CVD's I run. I think I need to grease mine again as they have developed a slight chatter. I'm pretty sure most any wide angle 44mm shaft will work except for the OTA/TEH shafts because those use a different bearing size. I have run Square 46mm cvds before. they fit, but when the suspension wasfully compressed, they bottomed out in the drive cup preventing full compression.

Been reading on this thread and have learned a lot on how to improve my TCFD's steering angle. I was wondering if you still have any of the steering bridges left? I'm interested in getting one Also, I was wondering what prompted you to change the material from Aluminum to Carbon Fiber? Thanks in advance.

Last edited by ultraracingph on Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:51 am, edited 2 times in total.

Oh this tip is very helpful! Would you mind showing us a photo of your setup using these turnbuckles? Which one did you use? The medium one or the smallest one? I've ordered one already and hopefully it will be here soon! Thanks for the heads up!

ultraracingph wrote:Been reading on this thread and have learned a lot on how to improve my TCFD's steering angle. I was wondering if you still have any of the steering bridges left? I'm interested in getting one Laso, I was wondering what prompted you to change the material from Aluminum to Carbon Fiber? Thanks in advance.

PM sent on how to get one of these CF bridges.

I made the change from aluminum to CF for strength purposes. My aluminum prototype would bend in a crash. It could be straightened but alignment was never the same. I choose CR over Titanium for 3 reasons. 1) it is significantly cheaper 2) for the thickness of the material we need to use, it is still significantly stronger 3) the weave of the CF that we were able to source looks exactly like the CF that Hot Bodies used throughout this kit.

The CF bridge has been fantastic. Maintaining proper, consistent wheel alignment. And has not shown any fatigue after numerous crashes. In fact, on my last putting, I broke the mounting ears off my servo case when I misjudged and slammed into a concrete pole. The LF wheel and the servo horn took all the force. The CF bridge survived, but the servo didn't.

Ok. Since I have gotten about 4 people PM me about this CF steering bridge in that last week, I am considering trying to get them cut by another machinist since the current guy is in the middle of an equipment upgrade.

I howeverm don't want to eat the cost of having 9-10 made, only to sit on them forever. So can I get a show of hands of how many people are seriously interested in purchasing one?