Autostitch - Applet for stitching images together to create panoramas or larger images of a single object like the moon

iMerge - Same as AutoStitch, the software used to create the High res moon image on the Example Images page

Help Docs

Installing the ASI 130 Series Drivers.pdf

Using the ASI 130 Series Camera as a guider.pdf

Using the ASI 130MM with SharpCap.pdf

Reducing Noise with the Pattern Editor.pdf (Not required with driver v1.2.3.1 or above!)

Digital Astrophotagraphy Guide
particularly to web cam imaging

Webcam Astrophotography - applies more to the SPC900 but contains useful info for users of the ASI series as well

What can be achieved using the ASI 130MM Camera

Note: All images courtesy of ZWO Optical unless otherwise stated

Lunar

Without a doubt this camera has completely transformed my feelings on imaging the moon. Capturing large areas in crisp detail is a doddle when combining the ASI 130MM with SharpCap capture software.

Archimedes crater and Montes Appeninus mountain range:

First image is of the eastern edge region of Mares Imbrium with the prominent crater Archimedes in the centre.

From Wikipedia

Archimedes is a large lunar impact crater on the eastern edges of the Mare Imbrium. To the south of the crater extends the Montes Archimedes mountainous region. On the southeastern rim is the Palus Putredinis flooded plain, containing a system of rilles named the Rimae Archimedes that extend over 150 kilometers. North-northwest of Archimedes stand the Montes Spitzbergen, a string of peaks in the Mare Imbrium.

Note this and most of the other lunar images significantly reduced for web page loading.

The actual original images are FAR better than this image implies......

6)Guiding star:- is visible at 0.5 second exposures with good Signal to Noise ratio

The star visible is 3rd Magnitude Lambda Orionis

Using the ASI 130MM as a guider with AstroArt5

The image below shows the AS setup to guide using AstroArt5.

***Please Note there is more detailed information including coverage of other guiding applications in the help guides on the CD

Awaiting Images

Using the ASI 130MM as a guider with MaximDL

The image below shows the AS setup to guide using MaximDL. The setup was a 12" LX200GPS at prime focus (F10 - Focal Length 3034mm)

The selected star is the brighter of a pair lying just beside the galaxy M95 and captured with a 2sec exposure.

The star is catalogued in Skymap as:-

GSC 849:177

Magnitiude 10.26

***Please Note there is more detailed information including coverage of other guiding applications in the help guides on the CD

Using the ASI 130MM with the SharpCap capture application

Note there is more detailed information in the SharpCap help guide on the CD

Configuring the SharpCap application for the ASI 130 camera

If the ASI 130 drivers are correctly installed and the camera is connected there is little to do by way of configuring SharpCap. Simply open the application and if the "Auto connect on startup" option is enabled the camera preview screen and settings dialog should quickly display. If Auto Connect is not selected you should click on "Camera" and from the dropdown select the first ASI 130 camera entry as shown right:-

SharpCap with the ASI 130MM imager provide feed to the preview screen:-

Note the availability of ROI (Region of Interest) controls to allow you to locate small features like planets on the full chip then reduce the resolution to increase camera speed whilst keeping the object centered

All the features of the ASI 130 cameras are supported in SharpCap

You can also control the focuser on ASCOM compliant devices from the SharpCap application

ASI 130MM imaging the moon in SharpCap:-

Here we see the full chip canvas available being used to capture the Copernicus crater.

This is the actual capture used to create the image in the example images tab.

SharpCap Pattern Editor

*******Please Note ---- With the release of driver v1.2.3.1 this process is now automated -- See "Software" tab********

Note there is more detailed information in the help guide on the CD

The ASI 130MM camera although great in many respects does suffer from noise that becomes more intrusive the more we increase gain and reduce exposure time. Sadly these settings are precisely what is required for capturing planetary images.....

One way we can reduce noise is to use a function called "Pattern Edit"

Before Pattern Edit:-

After manual Pattern Edit has been applied, note the smoother image in the preview screen :-

General Advice on capturing images

Considerations before use

The first and most significant thing to consider when using a webcam to image on astronomical objects through a telescope is the image size you are working with. An ASI 130MM will be the equivalent of using a 9mm or lower eyepiece focal length in most scopes. So consider the difficulties of trying to setup your scope and align an object in the centre of the field of view if that was the ONLY eyepiece you had....
Demoralized already?
Good, your ready to begin astroimaging......

Let's look at the other issues:-

Camera

Connectivity – Ensure you install the camera drivers BEFORE connecting the webcam!

Cable length –
Watch out for the length of your USB cable and it's quality. The frame rates are so high you need to keep the length as short as possible as well. According to the USB2.0 specification if you need to go more than 16 feet (5m) You WILL need a repeater\powered hub placed every 16 feet (5 m) up to a total maximum of 5 nodes (including the camera itself).

However I have found problems using the camera through a powered hub at high frame rates even with a USB2.0 class hub.

Update to above:-

- Since the previous sentence was written I have discovered the problem lay with a 3 metre USB Extension cable. The message is clear - keep cable lengths as short as possible and buy the best quality only.

Practise –
If possible try the camera out on land based targets in broad daylight first in order to get used to focussing correctly. This will also get your focus closer to what is required for a night time object so make a note of the focus position using your intended optical setup- see Optical Considerations – Focal length comment below.

Scope

The Mount - Is the scope motorized? If not you will be limited in the maximum focal length and exposure times (for long exposure imaging) you can
use – see Focal Length below.

Cool Down period - The scope needs to be cooled down to around ambient temperature before you start imaging, there are 2 reasons for this:

1. Maintaining accurate focus - Because focus is so critical the change in tube length that occurs when a scope cools down can impact on the focus

2. Tube currents - These can ruin the image even on the rare occasions when the atmosphere is super stable

Alignment - Make sure the scope is accurately aligned and tracking before inserting the webcam, even a large object like the moon can be surprisingly difficult to locate using just the webcam application at high focal lengths. This is even more so if you haven't achieved accurate focus as the object will be smeared and pale. In my 12" SCT at F10 if the moon is sufficiently out of focus it isn't even observable on the computer screen....

Do you have any focussing aids? – see "Focus" further down

Optical considerations

Collimation - Make sure the scope is well collimated especially if it's a reflector\SCT. Most refractors are fixed as far as collimation is concerned so there is little you can (or probably should!) do with that telescope type.

Focal length - To image the moon pretty much any focal length is usable from little 3"/70mm refractors at F4.5 up to 12"/300mm SCT's at F10+. Planets however are a different story, here you will often need to start work at F10 and will need to look at the F20 – F40 range to get a decent image size (seeing conditions permitting)

To achieve those focal lengths you will likely need to use barlows and you want to get the best quality you can afford – I use the Meade #140 APO 2x and an AstroEngineering x4 Imagemate. I bought mine 2nd hand off Ebay and AstroBuySell UK. The Meade is decent and I'm still trying to get a good enough night to test the ImageMate properly.
If you can afford TeleVue Powermate's.... Well lucky you!

That said, on the "Example Images" tab Saturn was taken through a cheapie Meade "Shorty Barlow" (#126) so check out what you have already before splurging out...

At this point many astronomers will be thinking "Hang On! The equivalent of a 6mm eyepiece with a barlow at x2 or more? That means my magnification is WAY more than the objective can support!?!"

So what's that about?

Well first off the camera is recording images many times a second and when processing we pick out the best frames from the AVI file that is created. As a result those brief moments of stability and good seeing can be captured in a way not possible with the human eye or "Long Exposure" ccd cameras.
Also, we are looking to match the webcams ccd pixel size to the resolution your optics are capable off, neither "Oversampling" or "Undersampling" the image. There is a great brief description of this issue by "Merlin66"here
on the Stargazers Lounge website

If you can handle some maths there is a full explanation here on Frank Brandl's website (in fact it's a great tutorial for capturing images in general, well worth a look but look at my comments on here as well)
Suffice to say as a start for the planets look to initially achieve F10 – F20 (at least while you get some experience of planetary imaging)
Of course working at such long focal lengths introduces another problem, focus...

Focus - Without doubt the biggest challenge for a beginner and the most important single element required to achieve a good image is accurate focus. There are a number of methods and devices out there to achieve focus but one of the best and the one I use is a "Bhatinov Mask". You can buy these or make them as I did and there's more info here.
At some point I will put some screenshots up showing the Bhatinov mask in use together with a very smart applet called "BhatinovGrabber" available here: http://www.njnoordhoek.com/?m=200903

It allows you to accurately focus using the webcam with a Bhatinov mask. BhatinovGrabber can even automate focus if you have an ASCOM compliant electric focusser!

First Target - It's a no brainer – use the moon for your first target. Even in an accurately setup scope
with good guiding locating the planets in the centre of the ccd chip takes effort....
Once you have mastered capturing the moon you can then go on to try the planets.

The temptation is to go for the planets first because they're perceived as "More Interesting" But! to capture the planets you will need to work your way up the magnification ladder whilst keeping the object centred at all times and you need experience with the equipment first.
Don't give in to the temptation, it's more likely to just leave you demoralised and disappointed to the point of giving up webcam imaging...

Capturing Frames

If you have worked your way through all the earlier issues your now ready to image, see the SharpCap guide for hints and advice.

Do be aware of the potentially very large file sizes that can be created when capturing the AVI. Check your hard drive space

Also bear in mind that there is a limit to the length of time you can image the planets because of the high speed of rotation of some, particularly Jupiter. This has the effect of "Smearing" the data so reducing resolution in the image. Again view Frank Brandl's site for a discussion of this topic.

FAQS

A customer asks:-

Interested in the new cam for my son, I just bought him a nexstar 127 mak do you think the asi is justified for this or will a phillips cam be a better starter.

Thanks in advance

Rob

My Reply-

Philips SPC900 or ASI's for young amateur?

If you'd asked me that question 4 months ago the Philips would win it hands down, now I'm not so sure
for the following :

1) The price the Philips webcams are fetching at the moment are insane... The last few I'm selling off at auction fetching between £80 - £130. I was selling them last year for £50 + delivery....2) The chip size on the philips is very small. Now that isn't important for imaging the planets so much but it does make getting the planet in view in the first place and then keeping it there is harder work......3) The newer cameras have something called ROI, this allows you to use the full chip to locate the planet. Then you zoom in at the resolution that gives you the required image size and you can move this area around within the main "canvas" to keep the planet in view if it's drifting away.4)The larger chip means getting lovely high res pictures of the moon is much easier and more rewarding.5) With a bigger chip and the long exposure support of the ASI 130's you can expand your target range tofar more objects than the Philips (Philips is strictly for Moon & Planets really). The Philips would need to be long exposure modded with a new chip and a steady hand with the soldering iron....

Now the disadvantages of the ASI's:-

1) The only model currently available is Mono, no issue for the moon but you would need CCD colour filters to create colour images of the planets and other objects. That adds complexity at the imaging stage,taking the camera out, swapping screw in filters in the dark or paying for a filter wheel (more expense!) It also adds complexity at the processing stage as you have to marry up those Red,Green and Blue images.The reason imagers put themselves through this palaver is because the Mono cameras give much higher resolution than a colour of the same chip dimensions.2) The ASI is more expensive, although as stated in the first comment that's marginal at the moment. In fact the last chap who bid £133 pounds has instead chosen to upgrade to the ASI instead after I contacted him with an offer to do so. I just didn't feel comfortable taking that amount of money off someone for an SPC900 when the ASI is far superior for only £20 more......I should state the chap has been imaging for a decade with film so was well aware of the work involved with RGB imaging (Red, Green & Blue). 3) The ASI uses a CMOS chip as opposed to the CCD of the Philips. Without going into detail CCD chips are better than CMOS for astro imaging (but CMOS have come a long way and are closing the gap)4) The ASI 130 doesn't come with an IR filter it is an extra. I did consider including one with all cameras but this up's the base price and most customers buying one already have filters like these.

To summarize:

A) Philips if you can get it cheap enough, less than £65. You can always upgrade later and the
Philips will hold their value for a while.
If you buy one of my auction ones I am offering a trade in on the philips if\when you upgrade :)

B) Get the ASI 130MM if you son is VERY keen and be prepared to pay another £100 (2nd hand!)
- £190 (new) for RGB filters. Note these need to be stated as CCD quality NOT VISUAL!
You will also probably want a filter wheel to make life easier (£60 - £500!! I kid you not LOL!)
I am testing some RGB filters at the moment (when the weather gods choose to smile upon me..... )
If they fulfill the manufacturers promise they will easily be the cheapest CCD RGB filters around as I'll
be retailing around the £60 mark delivered!
As you can see serious imaging tends to have lots of ten pound notes wrapped around it

C) Wait for the ASI Colour versions to arrive, easier to use, more satisfying for a youngster who
would find messing with filters in the dark gets old real quick.......
It's currently being tested by the manufacturer and he assures me I will see some before the end of March.

LINKS

awaiting update

How to Buy

How Much?

The ASI 130MM camera will be available for £147.99 + Delivery

Please note this is a special introduction price and will not be held beyond the end of March 2012

Shipping charges are:-

UK £3.99 (1st Class Signed For Service Tracked Delivery next working day)

EU £7.99 (1st Class Signed For Service Tracked Delivery in 4-7 working days)

I'm afraid the cost of delivery has had to be increased above my initial estimates due to the extra insurance premium required by Royal Mail

On a more positive note this does mean faster delivery times now apply.

Worldwide - please contact me as the cameras will be delivered direct from manufacturer to avoid a "Double Whammy" of customs charges.

Total Price including delivery:

UK - including delivery = £151.98

EU - including delivery = £155.98

Rest Of World - including delivery = Please Confirm prior to ordering

How to Buy?

Use PayPal!

Delivery Options - Please select your location

Please note you are allowed to order even if the item is out of stock. If this is the case you will be informed and given the option to cancel. Out of stock delivery is usually 7-8 working days for this item.

I have had requests for the ability to pay be internet banking, at the moment this is only available for UK and EU purchasers.

Please contact me if you wish to use this method.

EBAY

I will occasionally place these cameras on EBay in auction format, to see if any are available click here to view my Ebay profile then look at my "Items for Sale" via the link on the right side of the feedback page.

Warranty & Returns

12 Months Warranty against manufacturing faults is provided, units will need to be returned to me for inspection before offers of refund or repair are provided.

Please note ALL cameras are checked and confirmed functioning prior to packing.

In the event of a problem please contact me in the first instance using either the contact details sent with the camera or the via the "Contact" tab on the main navigation bar.

You will be contacted by me to arrange returns with either "Swapout" or refund.

If you purchased via EBay you can use either their "Dispute Resolution" process or contact me here (without prejudice to your EBay resolution rights!)