I am back to familiar territory with this: the smell of chicken roasting with lemon, rosemary and garlic has always seemed to me the essence of all that is comforting.

But this version is so sprightly and robust that I feel it uplifts as it soothes: it is good-mood food, and good-mood cooking, too. You just throw everything in the pan with brio and let it roast away merrily.

Preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7. Get out the biggest roasting tin you have, and pour all but a teaspoon or so of the oil into it. Throw in the chopped rosemary needles and the garlic cloves.

Trim the leeks and cut each in half lengthways, then slice into half-moons and drop these leek curls into the tin, too.

Cut the potatoes into 1.5cm slices, then cut each slice into 4, or just halve them if the potatoes are small, and add these to the tin.

Quarter the lemons, then cut each quarter in half, take out as many pips as you can without exerting yourself unduly and toss the lemon quarters into the pan. Now schmoosh everything to mix, and then make a space in the middle of the tin for the chicken to sit in.

Untruss the chicken, place it in the reserved parking space, pour the tiny bit of remaining oil on top of it and sprinkle sea salt flakes on top of the chicken only. Place in the oven for 1 hour and 10 minutes, and if the juices of the chicken run clear when you push the tip of a knife into the joint where the thigh meets the body, remove the chicken to a board to sit, letting the juices from its cavity spill back in to the tin as you do so, then put the potato mixture back in the oven for 10 minutes until soft and golden. If the chicken needs longer, keep everything in the oven until the chicken’s cooked.

When it’s ready, and the chicken has rested, carve it or cut into joints as wished – I find the chicken goes further if carved. If you don’t want to serve the lemony, garlicky potatoes from their tin (I never mind), transfer them to a serving plate or dish and sprinkle with ½ a teaspoon or so of finely chopped rosemary needles and sea salt flakes to taste.

Uyen Luu’s stir-fried beef and fresh noodles

Pho noodles (also known as “ho fun” and used in pho soup) are fabulous for dry stir-fry dishes, as they are quick and easy to cook. You can use any vegetables you like in this dish and make it as simple or colourful as you wish. Prepare everything before starting so that nothing gets overcooked.

Heat a dash of oil in a frying pan or wok over high heat until very hot, then fry the steak, sugar snaps, 1 tablespoon of the oyster sauce, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, a dash of the wine, the pepper and garlic for a couple of minutes or until the steak is cooked as you like it. Transfer the contents of the pan to a plate and allow to rest.

Heat another dash of oil in the pan again, then stir-fry the onion for a few seconds. Add the noodles and the remaining oyster and soy sauces. Stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Add the beansprouts and a dash more wine. Stir-fry for a further minute.

To make the dipping sauce, crush the chilli into the soy sauce with the back of a spoon. Serve the rested beef mixture and stir-fried noodles with the dipping sauce.

Asma Khan’s yakhni pulau

Yakhni means “meat stock/broth”. Some of the spices and the name “yakhni” are Kashmiri but this dish is not made in Kashmir but in modern-day Uttar Pradesh – one of the theories about the origin of this pulau was that it was made in the palace of the ruler of Oudh (modern-day Lucknow) by Kashmiri cooks in the middle of the 19th century. This is a wonderful one pot dish to make – if you omit the fresh green chillies or add a couple of mild chillies, it is great for the entire family as children can also eat this easily. Use bone in chicken thighs for preparing the stock in which to cook the rice – don’t try and make it with boneless chicken or breast, as the stock will have absolutely no flavour. The essence of this dish is the yakhni – the delicate flavour of the stock which is absorbed by the rice. The pale colour of the pulao is very deceptive; it is packed with flavour and spices.

Feeds family of 6 or 4 hungry adultsbasmati rice 400gsaltonions 2 medium, finely slicedoil 3 tbspskinless chicken thighs 1kg, bone in, cut in half – ask your butcher to do this for you if you don’t have a cleaverfresh green chillies 2 or 3 (optional)spice bag (see below)mint a sprig, for garnish (optional)

Start by washing the basmati rice, then leave it covered in water to soak with half a teaspoon of salt. Place all the spice bag ingredients in an infuser bag or square of muslin or other clean coth and tie up tightly with kitchen string.

Next, fry the sliced onions in 3 tablespoons of oil till they are caramelised and golden brown. Remove the onions from the oil to prevent them from burning and spread them on a plate. Keep the heat on medium high and add the chicken to the pan and seal it in the hot oil. Return half the onions to the pan together with the spice bag (the bag should be tied securely so it does not open in the cooking process). The other half of the browned onions will be used as a garnish at the end. Add enough water to cover the chicken and season with salt (just as a rough guide, I usually use 2¼ teaspoons of salt). Once the water is boiling, lower the heat and cover the pan with a lid, and leave it to cook for 20 minutes. Half way through, check the chicken to make sure it is not falling apart!

After the chicken is cooked, remove the chicken gently with a slotted spoon and put it on a plate, in a single layer as much as possible to prevent the meat from coming off the bone. You will need approximately 960ml of yakhni for the 400g of rice. Reduce the stock or add some water if required to make it 960ml. My grandmother would squeeze the spice bag at this stage to get the last bit of flavour out of the spices. You can try that too, as long as you can do it without bursting the bag! You can remove the spice bag now. It has done its job.

Return the 960ml yakhni back to the pan. After that, take the rice out of the water it was soaking in and add to the stock, together with the chicken and green chillies if you are adding any.

Put the stock with the rice and chicken on medium-high flame. Once the stock is boiling, lower the flame, cover the pot with a lid and let it simmer. Check the rice often to see when the stock has been absorbed. The rice should be cooked but al dente (if that makes sense!).

At this point, remove the pan from direct heat and put the flame on a low setting and put the pan on an iron plate – a flat pan or tawa, or the closest thing you have to a tawa in your kitchen. The aim is for the heat to be diffused. If you do not have anything appropriate you could put the rice pot in a low oven for 10 minutes. Once you remove the rice from the heat source cover the top with a kitchen towel and leave the rice undisturbed for 10 minutes. Then serve garnished with the caramelised brown onions and sprig of mint.

Anna Jones’s kale, tomato and lemon magic one-pot spaghetti

This pasta is a complete revelation. The sauce is magically made from the pasta water and tomatoes as the pasta cooks all in one pan. No fuss, one pan and a killer bowl of pasta.

Pasta and gluten sometimes get a bad press. I think there is a time and place for a good bowl of pasta – saying that, I opt for interesting pastas as often as I do the traditional kind. Try corn, chickpea or buckwheat spaghetti – they are gluten-free, all have incredible individual flavours and make a welcome change if pasta is a staple in your house.

The key to this recipe is to measure your water carefully and to use the right pan: you need a large shallow saute pan or a casserole large enough to fit the pasta lying down. A large deep frying pan or wok would work well too.

Fill and boil a kettle and get all your ingredients and equipment together. You need a large shallow pan with a lid.

Put the pasta into the pan. Quickly and roughly chop the tomatoes in half and throw them into the pan. Grate in the zest of both lemons and add the oil and salt. Add a litre of boiling water, put a lid on the pan and bring to the boil. As soon as it comes to the boil, remove the lid and simmer on a high heat for 6 minutes, using a pair of tongs to turn the pasta every 30 seconds or so as it cooks.

Meanwhile, remove any tough stalks from the kale or spinach and roughly tear the leaves. Once the pasta has had 6 minutes, add the kale and continue to cook for a further 2 minutes.

Once almost all the water has evaporated, take the pan off the heat and tangle into four bowls. If you like, top with a little parmesan.

From A Modern Way to Cook by Anna Jones (4th Estate, £25). To order a copy for £20 go to bookshop.theguardian.com or call 0330 333 6846. Free UK p&p over £10, online orders only. Phone orders min p&p of £1.99

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over a medium heat in a 20cm diameter frying pan. Add the prawns and cook for 20-30 seconds, turning them over in the pan. Then remove and set aside.

Wipe the pan and then use to heat half the vegetable oil until it is just beginning to smoke. Add half the potatoes and onions and fry, stirring often, for about 15 minutes until golden brown. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool for a little, then take out the potatoes and onions with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Repeat with the other half of the oil, potatoes and onions – alternatively you can do this in one go in a heavy bottomed saucepan or wok for speed, but I do it in two batches in my tortilla pan at home.

Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Add all the potatoes, onions, prawns, piquillo peppers and chives and season well with salt and pepper.

Wipe the pan again and heat a little olive oil. Add the egg mixture and cook over a medium heat until it is just beginning to set – about 5 minutes. Place a large plate over the frying pan and carefully tip both plate and pan over so that the tortilla ends up on the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the pan and cook for another 5 minutes. Repeat the procedure twice more, cooking for about another 5 minutes on each side.

The tortilla should still be a little bit runny in the middle.Nieves Barragán Mohacho is executive chef at Barrafina