Alot of pups are coming down with Parvo around here it seems, so I asked my rescue friend to write out what she does in Parvo cases. Heer success rate is greater then 90% with this method. I have seen her pull back puppies from the edge many times.

Parvo is caused by a virus and there is no way to treat virus, we keep the body function supported, fight secondary bacterial infection and encourage the puppy's spirit with a lot of physical contact.

Inject Lactated Ringer's solution under the skin (SubQ or sub-cutaneous) three to four times a day. Use a 35 or 50 cc syringe and a 10 ga needle. Smaller needle is easier on a tiny puppy but takes a lot longer to get all the fluid in. For a 6-9 lb puppy I will give 50 cc of fluid three to four times a day, depends on how well the puppy is urinating. Pull the skin up, if it snaps right back into place the puppy is well hydrated, if the skin standsup in a peak the puppy is dehydrated and needs fluid. Lactated Ringers and the syringe and needles is available from most vets. Open a fresh bag of ringers for each new case. Use it at room temperature. Offer the puppy electrolyte and water, half and half Pedialyte any flavor. Once they get drinking stop the SubQ. If they spit up remove the water bowl.

Start giving fluid at the top of the back of the puppys neck and work your way down each time to minimize leakage from the previous injection site.

Give the puppy 1/2 to 1 cc of Penicillin in the muscle (IM or intra-muscular) twice a day. A 50-cc bottle of Penicillin is about $10 at feed stores. Keep it in the refrigerator.

Nutri-Cal or Vet-Cal is available from vets. It is a concentrated calorie paste. Give the puppy a half-inch to an inch strip twice a day. Put it on the roof of their mouth.

Withhold food at first sign of diarrhea. You can give squirts of Pepto Bismol but it doesn't help much. Best to just let the digestive system shut down and heal itself. There will be one or two bloody diarrheas as the lining of the gut is shed. After that there should be nothing come out for a couple of days while you are keeping the puppy alive with SubQ fluids and NutriCal.

Take the temperature twice a day. Use a digital thermometer and put a little vaseline on it, hold it inside the rectum til it registers. Should be 101 to 102. More than 103 give baby aspirin and alcohol baths. More than 104 put the puppy in room-temperature water bath until you get it down.

Wear two treeshirts tucked into your jeans and between treatments put the puppy inside and carry it everywhere with you. Talk to the puppy and pet it a lot and let it know you want it to live. Let the puppy hear you pray for it. To sleep at night put the puppy in your hand and wrap a towel around, cuddle the puppy to your chest as you lay on your side. If the puppy wakes and tries to move it will wake you. Put towels underneath to protect your mattress just in case.

When the puppy starts drinking water again you can offer strained chicken baby food, then cat food, then puppy food. It may take something like ice cream or sardines to get a puppy jump started but don't insist, the puppy will eat when his gut is healed enough to handle food.

Here is a link to a tea that you can order also.
It comes with a 100% money back guarantee for one full year if your not satisifed with the product.
I have not needed nor used it but have heard it to be successful from a few people.
http://www.parvoguard.com/

This is very useful if you don't mind doing things yourself or don't want to shell out the cost for veternary care of a dog with parvo (which is a lot).

The Nutri-cal or Vet-cal mentioned is another useful tool and could have other implications like trying to add some weight on a dog. I foster and train dogs for my local shelter and use a few methods to bring body weight back into normal range, noting wrong with adding one more to my tool box.

Be sure to use bleach or similar to disinfect any area that the sick puppy or dog is in contact with. Be sure to clean up any poop from outside too. Parvo can live a long time in the soil or in the carpet.

Here is a similar article, written by CA Jack:

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How to Beat Parvo

DISCLAIMER
I do not claim to be a veterinarian, and I certainly don't claim to be able to give medical advice. Nor do I claim that the steps contained herein will guarantee that a pup will live through parvovirus, even if they are followed exactly. All I claim is that I have used these methods on my own dogs to treat this disease, and I have only lost one pup - the first pup I bred who came down with parvo, to which I did not administer these procedures.

This information is given solely as an alternative for those people who either cannot afford veterinary care for their pup(s) and/or who do not have access to veterinary facilities. By reading or utilizing this information, the reader agrees to waive any and all rights, claims, causes of action, or any other allegations of injury, property damage, and/or emotional distress against California Jack and/or its owner, affiliated entities, associates, partners, etc. Further, the reader/user of this information agrees to defend, indemnify, and hold harmless California Jack, and/or any of its owners, affiliated entities, associates, partners, etc., against any and all such rights, claims, causes of action, or any other allegations of injury, property damage, and/or emotional distress against California Jack, etc. The purchaser of this information agrees to use this information AT HIS OR HER OWN RISK TO HIS OR HER OWN PUP(S)/DOG(S), with the full and total understanding that parvovirus is a lethal disease which can and will kill some puppies (dogs) irrespective of what kind of treatment the pup (dog) receives, or from whom. By reading, and/or using the material contained herein, the purchaser, reader, or user of this information fully understands the above and again agrees to utilize this information AT HIS OR HER OWN RISK TO HIS OR HER OWN PET.

How Do You Tell If It's Parvovirus?

SIGNS TO LOOK FOR:

If your puppy starts looking depressed, or appears listless, you should immediately become concerned, as these are the first signs of parvo (and any number of other similar diseases). It may be nothing and it may go away - or, it may not. The next stage of parvo is your puppy refuses to eat. Puppies will still continue to drink water, so don't be fooled by this. Soon after the puppy refuses to eat, it will begin to vomit - and vomit. After this the diarrhea comes, which is oftentimes bloody. If you let your puppy's symptoms get this far, the chances of saving it are slim. Most people wait and wait, until it is too late to save the pup. You cannot wait for vomiting and diarrhea to occur before you decide to act. If you value the life of your pup, you must act before these stages occur.

WHEN TO ACT:

If your puppy refuses to eat at its normal time, and it seems depressed, immediately take it to the vet for a microscopic analysis for the following four (4) conditions: coccidiosis, giardia, coronavirus, and parvovirus. It is better to spend $50 on a false alarm - than to have to bury your pup out of laziness and negligence. It is essential to have your pup checked out for all four of these potential diseases. ALL of these conditions have the same symptoms, but the first two are protozoan infections which can be treated with medication [ask your vet about the kinds of medication for each, and then refer to my "Save Money" information on how to get it cheaper]. The first two infections are not usually as severe as the other two (viral) infections because they can be treated with medication, whereas the viral infections cannot. ALL of these conditions can be further alleviated by the following steps: (Take these steps only if you cannot afford competent veterinary care. By the way, if your vet is more interested in how he or she will get paid, than in saving your pup's life, then I suggest you go to a real vet.)

STEPS TO TAKE:

If you have confirmed that your puppy has one (or more) of these diseases, you must keep the pup indoors at all times - and I would recommend that it be the bathroom or the kitchen, as most likely the floors are tiled or made of linoleum - and, since your puppy will be vomiting and defecating profusely, you want to be able to clean it quickly and completely. Yes, it will be smelly and disgusting, but the smell will go away - death, however, will not - so clarify your values. If your puppy has parvo, and you leave it outside, especially at night when it cools down, I assure you it will die.

Once you've found the appropriate spot in the house in which to keep the pup, make sure that the temperature is comfortable: not too cool nor too warm - comfortable.

It is then imperative that you obtain the following supplies:

At least 4 Bags of Lactated Ringers (IV fluids) plus the catheter set ups and needles. YOU WILL NOT BE RUNNING THESE FLUIDS IN YOUR DOG IV (INTRAVENEOUSLY), BUT SUB-Q {SUBCUTANEOUSLY (UNDER THE SKIN).

a) Ask your vet to provide you with the ringers. If your vet will not, he is a money-grubber, and I would advise you to go to another vet. In fact, I would clearly establish with your vet whether or not he or she would provide you with such supplies before it ever becomes necessary. Don't wait until there is a life-threatening emergency before you find out that your vet won't help you. When you first get your pup ask your vet straight-up "If my dog ever caught parvo, and I couldn't afford the treatment, would you supply me with fluids?" If your vet says no, find a new vet. If you can get the ringers, try to keep a supply on hand before such an emergency. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." b) If you are in an emergency situation, or if you can't find a vet who will say "Yes" to the above question, ask yourself if you know anyone in the nursing or medical profession, either as suppliers or as administrators. Try to get the fluids in this way. But you need to get the fluids.

The next step is to get 4 Bottles of Pedialyte. You can obtain this at any supermarket or drugstore. Pedialyte is a fluid/electrolyte replacement drink for babies who have had chronic diarrhea and vomiting, and it is absolutely essential to the recovery of your pup. This is another good item always to have on hand.

Get a Bottle of Immodium AD, or any other anti-diarrhea medication.

Get an anti-nausea medication.

Get a Bottle of Injectable Penicillin. You can get this at a feed store or order through a catalogue [see my Save Money Tips]. You should always have a bottle of penicillin on hand.

Get a 5cc or a 10 cc syringe. Always have these on hand.

Get a box of 100 3cc syringes. Always have these on hand.

Buy a box of 100, 1" long, 22 gauge Needles. Always have these on hand.

Buy some cotton balls (or gauze pads).

Buy a bottle of Betadine, or some other topical disinfectant.

Buy some Nutri-Cal, or some other calorie-replacement supplement at your pet or feed store.

Buy some White Rice.

Buy (or make) some Chicken Broth.

HOW TO USE THIS STUFF

Immediately administer about 50 ccs of Ringers, per 10 lb. of body weight, subcutaneously (under the skin) of your pup. DO THIS EVERY TWO HOURS UNTIL YOUR PUP IS BETTER. Make sure the Ringers are body temperature. You do not want either to chill, or to overheat, your pup. Remember: BODY TEMPERATURE!

Make sure you have installed the catheter to the bag of fluids properly, and that all of the air bubbles have been washed out of the tubing. Give it a test to see if it works. When you're sure it does, use a cotton ball and some Betadine to disinfect the puppy's skin, and then insert the needle you've placed at the end of the catheter tube under the puppy's skin. [You do not stick the needle directly into the puppy's back, or stick it in his spine. You simply lift the puppy's skin with the fingers of one hand, and then gently push the needle just under the surface of the skin with the other at an angle]. Start at the base of your puppy's neck, to the left of the spine, and administer the appropriate amount of fluids into your pup by releasing the valve on the catheter at full tilt. When the appropriate amount of fluids has gone into your pup, withdraw the needle and again disinfect the skin - and also pinch the hole left by the needle for a few seconds so the fluids don't run back out of the pup. (There will be a large swelling under the puppy's skin which will be about gone, absorbed into the pup, by the time the two hours are up, and his next administration is due.) [Remember to insert the needle subcutaneously (or sub-q for short)]. NOTE: If your puppy has been vomiting and or has had profuse diarrhea prior to his first administration of fluids, give him twice the recommended amount on his first dose, and then go back to the recommended amount for his next dose two hours later. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS UNDERSTANDING ANY OF THIS, CONSULT A VETERINARIAN FOR ADVICE BEFORE YOU WORK ON YOUR PUP.

Continue to give your pup the recommended dose, every two hours, until your puppy has recovered. With each administration of fluids, you should insert the needle about an inch lower than where you put it in the last time, but on the other side of the spine, alternating sides with each dosage - until you get close to being 3 inches from the puppy's tail. On the next dosage, go back up to the level of the base of your puppy's neck, but start on the opposite side of the spine from where you first began. Follow this same procedure, every two hours, until your puppy is better. Again, each dosage is under the skin.

After you administer the first dose of ringers, it is time to use the Pedialyte. Take your 5 or 10 cc syringe (no needle, just the syringe) and withdraw pedialyte into it. You want to give the pup 5ccs of Pedialyte, per 10 lb. of body weight, every 2 hr., orally (in his mouth) right after you run the fluids under his skin. Sit the puppy down between your legs, with his back to you, and then tilt his head back so he's looking up. Put the syringe in his mouth (again, without a needle) and gradually disperse the appropriate amount of Pedialyte, until it's swallowed. Be careful of gagging or choking the pup. If your puppy vomits the Pedialyte back out, withdraw some more out of the bottle and put some more right back in the pup's mouth, until he keeps the proper amount down. Yes it can be messy, but it is absolutely essential to his life that he retain fluids. Sometimes you can just pour Pedialyte into a bowl and let the pup lap it up to his heart's content. Remember, if he throws it up, he doesn't have it in him, so you've got to withdraw more and put it back, until he keeps it down. Do this every two hours until your pup is better.

Give your pup ½ cc of Nutri-Cal (per 10 lb. of body weight), orally, every two hours after his dose of Pedialyte. This will give your pup some rich nutrients that, believe me, he really is going to need.

Give your pup ¼ cc of Immodium AD anti-diarrhea orally, per 10 lb. of body weight (using a 3cc syringe without a needle), every other two hours, right after you've given him his oral dose of Nutri-Cal. Again, if he throws it up, put it back in. Sometimes, however, this can irritate the dog's stomach. If you notice your pup keeps down the Pedialyte, but vomits right after you give him the Immodium AD, then you should probably forget about using the Immodium. It is much more critical that your dog get the fluids and nutrients, so if your dog reacts to the Immodium (or Pepto Bismol, or whatever), stop using it.

Give your pup ¼ cc anti-nausea medication, right after, and in exactly the same way, as with the above. Again, if your pup seems to be reacting to this too, forget about using it, and just concentrate on the fluids - the fluids are the most important part.

Give your pup a shot of penicillin. ONLY GIVE THIS SHOT EVERY OTHER DAY. Use your 3 cc syringe, with the 1", 22-gauge needle, and withdraw ½ cc of penicillin into the syringe (for every 10 lb. of body weight). Point the needle upwards and flick your finger against the syringe so that all of the air bubbles go to the top. Depress the plunger of the syringe, with the needle still pointed upward, until all of the air has been removed. Then deliver an intra-muscular injection. To do this, disinfect the skin of the meaty portion of one of the pup's rear legs, and insert the needle just to the rear of the center of the meatiest part. (There is a large nerve that runs down the centerline, and you want to avoid damaging this nerve - ASK YOUR VET IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING). Push the needle in about half-way and depress the plunger all the way to deliver the penicillin. The penicillin does not harm the parvovirus (or corona, coccidia, or whatever). What it does is prevent secondary infection. Again, only give the penicillin every other day, and switch back and forth between each of the pup's rear legs, with each injection, to allow healing. Vigorously rub a cotton ball with disinfectant over the injection site when you're done with each injection.

Mix the cooked white rice with a little chicken broth and see if your pup will eat it. If he doesn't eat it, throw the rice away and make a new batch six hours later, and try again. Keep trying every six hours until the pup begins to nibble at it. NEVER GIVE UP ON YOUR PUP UNTIL IT EITHER DIES OR EATS. KEEP TRYING AND DON'T LOSE HOPE. SPEAK KINDLY AND LOVINGLY TO YOUR PUP, AND STAY WITH HIM AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE TO GIVE HIM MORAL SUPPORT. [Remember when you were a child, how much better it felt to have your parent(s) close to you when you were sick? Your puppy's spirits are raised too when you're around to comfort him. NEVER underestimate the power of LOVE in healing the very sick...]

IF YOUR PUP BEGINS TO EAT YOU'VE MADE IT. Do not feed your pup his regular meal at this point, as his stomach lining is much too sensitive to tolerate it, but you can add some Nutri-Cal to the rice and chicken broth. Feeding the pup rice will do two things: 1) it will give him some nutrition, and 2) it will begin to firm-up his stool. As the pup's stool begins to firm up, you can begin to add some of his regular kibble to the rice after about two days, gradually increasing the amount of kibble, until his stool is completely firm again, and his rice is completely replaced by his regular food.

THINGS TO REMEMBER:

If your pup dies, and you did all of the above, please understand that even under 24 hr. veterinary care, pups still have a high mortality rate with parvovirus, and reassure yourself that you did everything you possibly could. In fact, many vets will tell you that a pup has a much greater chance of survival staying at home, with this kind of treatment, because of the supportive care, and familiar surroundings, that only his home could offer. There are certain things such as jugular IV fluid therapy, and plasma transfusions, which of course you are not set up to perform at home - but remember, this advice is for those who cannot afford to take their pup to a vet.

I invite you to show this advice to your vet and have him clarify, explain, or amend any of these steps until you feel comfortable with all of the procedures. Parvovirus, etc. is serious business, and the better you understand these procedures, and the quicker you act on implementing them when you see the first signs of parvo, the better chance your pup has of pulling through this critical disease. These are important lessons to learn. I hope you never experience parvovirus with any of your dogs; it's a terrible disease. But, if you do, I hope this article will assist you in saving the life of your beloved pup. If not, you can be assured you did everything in your power for your pup. Good luck - and if your pup makes it, CONGRATULATIONS!

Treatment for parvoviral infection centers on support. This means that the clinical problems that come up in the course of the infection are addressed individually with the goal of keeping the patient alive long enough for an immune response to generate. We do not have effective anti-virus anti-biotics and must rely on the patient’s immune system for cure.

BE PREPARED FOR A 5-7 DAY HOSPITAL STAY AND A SUBSTANTIAL EXPENSE. INTENSIVE CARE IS NEEDED TO TREAT THIS INFECTION

There are certain basic treatment principles which can be viewed as “must haves” in addressing the parvo puppy. Beyond these basics are some “added pluses” which may or may not contribute to the chance for survival. In order to achieve the usual survival rate of approximately 75-85%, the basics must be delivered. If an owner is less concerned about expense and simply wants to maximize survival chances, some of the optional treatments may be employed.

THE BASICS

FLUID THERAPY:One of the ways parvo can kill is via the metabolic derangements that occur with dehydration. It is crucial to replace the vast fluid losses (from vomiting and diarrhea) with intravenous fluids. Fluids are given as a steady drip rather than simply under the skin so that absorption into the circulation is direct. Potassium is usually added to the fluids in order to maintain electrolyte balance. Dextrose (sugar) is also frequently added as the stress of the disease may lower blood sugar especially in a very small puppy.

ANTIBIOTICS: The second way parvo kills is through bacterial invasion of the circulatory system (“sepsis.”) Since the GI tract is damaged, antibiotics cannot be given orally. They are given either as shots or are added into the IV fluid bag. There are a number of antibiotics which may be selected. Some antibiotics you may see in use include:

Our hospital tends to prefer Cefazolin as a basic choice. For more information on this drug you may wish to read the Pharmacy Center section on its sister drug: Cephalexin.

CONTROL OF NAUSEA: Patient comfort is a very important part of treatment for any disease but is especially important for parvo treatment as these puppies feel extremely nauseated. Again, the GI tract is too damaged for oral medication so medications are given as injections. There are two popular medications for nausea control:

Metoclopramide: (best given as a continuous drip in the IV fluid set up) If used as separate injections, relief tends to be short lasting and does not provide “around the clock” control. If a continuous drip is used, nausea control lasts as long as the drip is running.

Chlorpromazine: a very strong nausea control medication which lasts 6-8 hours per injection and has the added benefit of a drowsiness side effect (so patients can sleep through most of this uncomfortable time).
Injectable antacids (Tagamet, Zantac, or Pepcid) are often used to prevent ulceration of the esophagus of the esophagus should protracted vomited be a problem.

MONITORING

The following tests are helpful in adjusting parvovirus treatment:

Fecal floatation to rule out worms/internal parasites

The last thing these patients need is a parasite burden contributing to their nausea and diarrhea.

White blood cell counts/complete blood counts

One of the first acts of the parvovirus is to shut down the bone marrow production of immunologic cells (the white blood cells). White blood cell counts are often monitored as the infection is followed.

Urine specific gravity/Azosticks

In order to assess the effectiveness of the fluid therapy, some objective evaluation of dehydration is useful. If adequate IV fluids have been provided then the urine produced will be dilute (as measured by “specific gravity”) and azosticks measures of protein metabolites (which build up in the blood stream) should be at normal levels.

Abdominal Palpation

Abnormal motility of the intestines occurs with this infection. Sometimes an area of intestine actually “telescopes” inside an adjacent area in a process called “intussusception.” This is a disastrous occurrence as intussusception can only be treated surgically and parvo puppies are in no shape for surgery. Euthanasia is usually elected in this event.

Total blood protein

Protein depletion is common when there is heavy diarrhea. If blood proteins drop too low, special IV fluids or even plasma transfusions are needed to prevent massive life-threatening edema.

EXTRA TREATMENT WHICH MAY HELP:

CEFOXITIN (A SPECIAL ANTIBIOTIC) The best antibiotic coverage controls both gram negative and gram positive organisms, both aerobic and anaerobic organisms and does so with minimal side effects. The use of Cefoxitin (brand name Mefoxitin) does an excellent job of covering for the organisms of concern without the kidney side effects of gentamycin or amikacin and without the cartilage side effects of Baytril. Cefoxitin is especially expensive and is frequently reserved for the sickest puppies.

ONDANSETRON (BRAND NAME ZOFRAN) This medication is an especially strong anti-nauseal medication which is useful if the more common medications have failed. This medication is commonly used to control the extreme nausea experienced by people on cancer chemotherapy. While it is highly effective for parvo puppies, it is also very expensive.

SEPTI-SERUM-This product represents anti-serum (antibodies extracted from horses) which binds the toxins of any invading GI tract bacteria. The use of this product is controversial though the veterinary teaching hospital at Auburn University uses it commonly. It is usually given only one time as the equine origin of the product has potential for serious immunological reactions.

PLASMA TRANSFUSIONS In a similar attempt to deliver anti-bodies to the parvo puppy, plasma from a donor dog who has survived parvo is sometimes used. The canine origin of such products reduces the potential for immune reactions but such plasma is not typically available commercially.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY DRUGS- There have been many studies indicating the benefits of single doses of these medications in the prevention of septic shock. Repeated doses may cause further GI ulceration (which is obviously something a parvo puppy has enough of). Our hospital favors Flunixin meglumine (brand name banamine) for this use.

NEUPOGEN “Neupogen” is the brand name of a genetically engineered hormone called “granulocyte colony stimulating factor.” This hormone is responsible for stimulating the bone marrow to produce white blood cells and its administration easily overcomes the bone marrow suppression caused by the parvovirus. A recent study did not find increased survival with the addition of this product to the parvo regimen; however, in sicker puppies it may make a significant difference. It is very expensive usually adding $100-$200 to the basic treatment cost.

Home treatment for parvo infection is a bad idea when compared to hospitalization and intensive care. Mortality rises substantially and the heavy diarrhea and vomiting lead to heavy viral contamination in the home. Still, if financial concerns preclude hospitalization, home care may be the puppy’s only chance. Fluids will have to be given under the skin at home as will injectable medicines.

Here are a couple of recipes that were passed along. The first one has a 100% effective rate to date. Please give this a try. If you can't get the Tamiflu, try the Parvaid.

The full strength Parvaid can be purchased online from www.ambertech.com The emergency tea is for use until the Parvaid is delivered. The people at Ambertech are really nice and you can call them and talk to them about the symptoms, etc. The number is in the second post.

Edited to add that the ones that did not make it through the parvo were very tiny, only about 8-12 weeks. You may have more success with the older pups.

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Tamiflu Treatment for Parvo and Distemper

This Dr. has been treating with Tamiflu for over a year now with a 100% success rate even in animals that were showing symptoms and they have not had any permanent neurological problems afterward which is very common in distemper and parvo survivors without this treatment.

Tamiflu is a viral inhibitor that prevents the virus from spreading It is currently only approved for humans but a vet can write the prescription or call it in to your local pharmacy. You will need to have a pharmacy that can compound the drug and make it into an oral suspension with flavoring so the animals don't mind the taste and will take it easily. Dr. Jack uses banana flavored.

The vet that is conducting this study, is Dr. Jack Broadhurst. His phone number is 1-910-295-2287 and his email address is DocCat@aol.com He can and will be more than happy to answer any other vets' questions about this study. He is looking to pull in more vets and others into the study. We need them to get the data to supply to the FDA for the approval in use in animals!

If you have anyone that uses this treatment or have any vets that would co-operate and agree to treat with it be sure to have them give feedback to Dr. Jack so that he can use the statistics when submitting to the FDA to get approval for use in animals.

We still have a 100% success rate. It is a drug that has been on the market for years and has been used on children. We are trying to get the FDA approval for the use in animals for this purpose. Currently it is being used off label, but who gives a rat's ass if it works, right?

The name of the drug is Tamiflu. You give 1 milligram per pound.

It is IMPERATIVE that it being given EXACTLY every 12 hours!!

You give it to them for 5 days and then stop!

However since Tamiflu is not something carried by vets, it will need to be picked up from a pharmacy.

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Parvo Emergency Tea Recipe

(Please note: This recipe may help sustain your dog but it is NOT the Full strength PARVAID)

We recommend you put your dog on an anti-biotic to prevent secondary
infections such as pneumonia.

You also need to watch for dehydration. If the gums go light pink or white you need to get fluids into your dog. You can take it to a vet and get an IV or sub Q fluids, or you can do an enema. Instructions on how to do it are on our web page www.ambertech.com/using.html under "Using Parvaid". Use as much of the tea recipe as you give by mouth. Do not stop giving the tea by mouth.

If you need further assistance you can call us at 1-877-727-8243. There is a message giving our home phone # for after hours.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I also found this article about using Tamiflu against this new "dog flu":

"Canine Influenza is sensitive to antiviral drugs like Tamiflu™, the prescription medication that reduces the severity and duration of flu in humans. Tamiflu™ is being used by a growing number of veterinarians for treating viral diseases, including Canine Influenza and Parvo virus in dogs and upper respiratory diseases in cats. With data that indicates Tamiflu™ is 92% effective in preventing flu in people, the FDA has approved its use as a flu preventative. Until a vaccination is developed, many veterinarians see Tamiflu™ as the only viable medication that they can provide for their patients. But unfortunately, what has prevented most veterinarians from using Tamiflu™ is the difficulty in accurately dosing and convincing dogs to swallow it. In all forms, Tamiflu™ has an extremely bitter taste."

My Dog had Parvo When he was about 2 months old...(right before his next vacs) and the vet told us to give him Rice and Hamburger...and water...
Monoxide wouldnt eat the rice....or the water...so we had to force drink and feed him babyfood...and water through a syringe...but we also ended up force drinking him GatorRade for the electrolytes...on top of that the anti-vomiting and anti diareah medicine...
I dont know if it would work for every dog but it saved my dog..

My puppy has been hospitalized for three days now w/ parvo It was caught early so I hope that he will be better... I would've taken care of him at home so he would be in a familiar area but I dont know how to do injections or anything like that.....

Were fairly sure our Rescue pup has Parvo but his currently at the vet for 24hour watch. I want to know about how to deal with the CLEAN UP of the house.Im washing and disinfecting everything he came into contact with and shampooing the carpets, But what else can I do?

I have two girls who survived parvo, Does anyone know if there is a program to donate their plasma or blood to help babies who need it? It would be a shame for someone's pup here locally to go without this treatment if needed when i've got two strong survivors who wouldn't mind one bit loosing some blood for the cure.

OkieDaLaPitMoma wrote:Were fairly sure our Rescue pup has Parvo but his currently at the vet for 24hour watch. I want to know about how to deal with the CLEAN UP of the house.Im washing and disinfecting everything he came into contact with and shampooing the carpets, But what else can I do?

Houdini has parvo. He's not looking so great. We are feeding him pedialyte and we have to force feed him. Vet said to give him bland food, chicken with rice and gatorade. I'm thinking we are going to have to force feed him that too. He growled at us when we were giving him pedialyte, just once.

The vet said he's going to survive. He's going to worse before he gets better.

MissVicky wrote:Houdini has parvo. He's not looking so great. We are feeding him pedialyte and we have to force feed him. Vet said to give him bland food, chicken with rice and gatorade. I'm thinking we are going to have to force feed him that too. He growled at us when we were giving him pedialyte, just once.

The vet said he's going to survive. He's going to worse before he gets better.

I'm so sorry it is a very tough thing to get through.It is hard when there is not a 100% that they pull through. My aunt had three dogs with parvo at the same time. We hospitalized and they thankfully got through it. If he is not holding anything down there are anti nausia injections that the doctor can give.if he is not vomiting then he can be force fed easier. Also ask if u can take home some fluids and start giving sub q at home. They can also add additives to the fluids such as vitamins and anti nausia additive as well. Giving fluids regularly will make a HUGE difference!