Been a professional bike mechanic for over 20 years. Bought this one for at home because it looked a lot like the Park model at half the price. I've only had a chance to used this on bikes with a 1" headset so I'm not sure how effective it would be on 1-1/8". It workes fine on old Chicago Schwinns with thick steel headset cups but I have yet to remove a cup on a higher end frame with this. The prongs slip right off. Got tired of screwing with it and ordered the Park version last night. I may try bending or grinding the ends before I throw it away.

This tool would not stay seated against the bearing race; the problem was in the design. The end of the tools is square cut tubing so when the tool is in place, the inside edge is longer than the outside edge. This acts as a taper that pushes the tips inward when you use the tool. I fixed the tool by grinding a taper in its end so that the inside edge is shorter than the outside edge. When using the tool after the modification, the tangs are pushed outward instead of inward, and it easily removed my bearing races.

I was a professional bicycle mechanic for many years more than 30 years ago. I am familiar with the park version of this tool which works very nicely. The Nashbar version does not work at all. I have yet to successfully remove a headset cup. Like the other reviews it just does not catch the edge of the headset cup and this is on old-style 1 inch headsets. I have not tried bending the tool but that will be my next modification. It should not need that out-of-the-box.

More Nashbar (headset) tool woes. First was the crown race remover, now this. Actually there is a third issue which is the cup press. I have used Park tools and installed many w/o trouble. This tool tangs do not engage with the cups even after bending the tangs outward more. I had to insert a piece of 1" scrap carbon steerer into the tangs to "lock" them in place so the edges can engage with the cups for the punch operation.

The split ends do not flare out enough to catch the edges of the cups (used on a traditional 1 inch head tube, I suspect this is the case for 1 1/8 as well). So the tool doesn't work right out of the box, however the ends can be bent out a bit to make it work (I used a large pair of pliers, took less than 5 minutes).

My LBS wanted $30 each to take out my headsets. I bought this in hopes it would work. It is made well and works well. I knocked out my king headsets in less than 15 sec each. I read from another review it was hard to use or the prongs were bent in. If that is the case just bend out the tabs...

The problem with the tool is that that ends of the tool bend in towards the center instead of bowing out. That means that that you can't get the 4 ends to contact the race at once. You can angle it to get contact with one or two, but then why bother using this tool as a screwdriver will do the same. When I get a chance I am going to try to bend out the ends, they could not be quickly bent out by hand, to get them to work properly. I'm too lazy to return the tool, but if bending doesn't work I will put it on my 'to do' list. :)

I see no reason this will not work well for frames with a standard head tube and standard headset. It's well-constructed and should pound out more headsets than you'll ever go through.

Two of my head tubes, however, are (older) Cannondale thick-walled aluminum tubes. The inside diameter of the tubes is the same as the inside diameter of the headset, with perhaps a quarter inch milled out of the head tube for the tool to expand into and catch the headset cup. That's not enough for this tool. I ended up using a 3/4" copper pipe and hammering out the cups.