Help Getting A Swan 1500 Writing

I've recently acquired the pictured slip cap 1500. This was my first Swan (funny place to start I suppose), but I've also picked up very nice 3162 since. Save for some discoloration of the cap and a missing clip, the pen is in excellent condition with nice, hallmarked 9k bands and a flexy stub/italic nib. I'm having a bit of trouble getting it writing reliably though.

After a fill, a few taps on the paper and the ink starts up. I can write a series of loops for a while, then the flow stops completely. A few more taps and it starts up again for a while. It seems particularly unreliable on straight downstrokes. The feed is clear, but I'm not sure where to start

Any thoughts? I've just noticed after taking these pictures the the nib gap might be a bit wide. Could that be it?

A couple of other questions as well, if I may.

I've guessed this pen dates from around 1910. Would that be correct? Also, as the feed and nib don't completely fill the hole in the section (I can clearly see daylight when looking up through it with the barrel off), what stops the ink just dripping out?

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That's a very nice 1500 - and what a lovely nib - those MT broad stubs are superb.

I agree that the flow problems are most likely caused by the gap at the tips: such gaps prevent proper capillary action and thus inhibit the ink flow. Additionally I have overhauled 1500s and similar pens and found that the correct setting of the feed is critical. Feed-setting is of course important in any pen, but this type of eye-dropper seems to me to be especially sensitive

Not that I know of; I just fiddled with the ones I did - a 100, a 1500 and a Châtelaine until they worked. In your position I should address the nib first; mark/measure carefully the position of the feed and twisted silver wire before dismantlng so that you will have a known starting point

Agree with above. I wold like to add that you need to disassemble the feed/wire/nib and get a better look at the nib slit. To my eye the issue is less the spacing at the end. Rather, the slit is tight at the area where the overfeed ends, and then it opens. The slit needs to be wider at the breather hole and gradually narrow to the tip. The tips themselves can touch if the nib is a bit flexible.

As for the other questions in the OP

The pen is c1910 give or take.

It is beautiful and anyone on the MT forum would love to have an example this clean with those lovely bands that won't be subject to brassing.

The odd sight of daylight through the section is normal. Just go with it. it works.

The alignment of the nib and over/underfeed is only achieved by a delicate series of maneuvers called "futzing around." The nib usually goes in to a point and stops. The wire is at least partly there to wedge the feed in place once you are happy with the nib/feed situation.

You might need a little heat set to get the bottom feed against the nib. The top looks good. **caution in that heat makes hard rubber return to original shape. So - note the original shape well before heating in case you have to recreate it. The feed is a narrow rod that is slit. The bottom is bowed out where the slit starts and that makes a little wide spot to help set the feed. It also results in the underfeed being shorter than the overfeed.

put it all together, and see how it works.

then play with the feed in and out (it is pretty loose), and once you are happy, use the twisted wire to hold the feed in that spot.

Agree with above. I wold like to add that you need to disassemble the feed/wire/nib and get a better look at the nib slit. To my eye the issue is less the spacing at the end. Rather, the slit is tight at the area where the overfeed ends, and then it opens. The slit needs to be wider at the breather hole and gradually narrow to the tip. The tips themselves can touch if the nib is a bit flexible.

As for the other questions in the OP

The pen is c1910 give or take.

It is beautiful and anyone on the MT forum would love to have an example this clean with those lovely bands that won't be subject to brassing.

The odd sight of daylight through the section is normal. Just go with it. it works.

The alignment of the nib and over/underfeed is only achieved by a delicate series of maneuvers called "futzing around." The nib usually goes in to a point and stops. The wire is at least partly there to wedge the feed in place once you are happy with the nib/feed situation.

You might need a little heat set to get the bottom feed against the nib. The top looks good. **caution in that heat makes hard rubber return to original shape. So - note the original shape well before heating in case you have to recreate it. The feed is a narrow rod that is slit. The bottom is bowed out where the slit starts and that makes a little wide spot to help set the feed. It also results in the underfeed being shorter than the overfeed.

put it all together, and see how it works.

then play with the feed in and out (it is pretty loose), and once you are happy, use the twisted wire to hold the feed in that spot.

Thanks Greenie and cob for the advice. I'm still futzing with the setup and I'm getting some better, but still not perfect results.

Though I agree with the other comments that the skips and hard starts may be due to the gap at the tip, you may find those problems reduce with a different ink, particular one of the wetter, free-flowing varieties such as the Iroshizuku range.

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