About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.I love fan letters! LOL

Well JW, it is nice when you fix and make something work the way its supposed to work. When you go make out the bill and collect and your driving down the road, thats when working on oil furnaces shows its ugly face. Its the "smell" JW, you go for a tea and donut, you smell from working on them. I smelled like that all winter.

Am not doing any furnaces or hot water tanks etc, to old and am to stiff in the bottom half, hips, legs etc. So I have worked on a lot of them, and the people are sure happy to have their furnace working right. So knowing what to expect in the oil furnace work, believe me JW, you are much better off sticking with just the Major Appliance Repair stuff. You can clean for ever, the service vehicle, the tools, the back of the truck, at home, even washing doesn't take all the smell out of things.

I have to admit, I did enjoy fixing and installing this stuff, even though the smell was constant. Brent@CanBC

You say it doesn't fire imediately. You can get 100 psi, but "is it" constant, 100 psi. The single stage pumps are common on this problem. Is this a single or two stage pump.

When you first call for heat and the furnace comes on, the spark is there, then starts up, and oil is pumped to the nozzle. Usually it takes just a few seconds for it to fire up and have flame and the burner remains on.

If its "hesitant" in a flame, you are dealing probably with the pump, if the coupler is in good reliable shape. The blower/fan shaft is attached to the "oil pump" with a coupler. I have had these pumps show 100 psi, but still were not feeding a constant flow to the nozzle. I would remove the line from the pump to the nozzle and start it up and see what that gauge was reading.

You might also have to attach a "clamp on meter" to the fan motor and see what kind of amps you are getting at start up, you should get5-6 amps and and after it fires up it should settle at 3 amps . If there is any "up/down" movement in the motor shaff what so ever, replace the motor. This is the motor attached to the oil pump. Brent@CanBC

No, it's on scheduled delivery so it never gets low, and the red dye clearly identifies it as kero.

I might have suspected that it was draining back and the pump was losing its prime, but at the moment the tank is full, and the level in the tank is higher than the pump.

Red dye is added to Disel for use as #2 oil. This was done because fuel oil #2 was cheaper than Disel and truckers were using it to save money. If the DOT inspected the trucks and there was no "Red Dye" they knew the truckers were avoiding paying additonal tax.

Red dye is added to Disel for use as #2 oil. This was done because fuel oil #2 was cheaper than Disel and truckers were using it to save money. If the DOT inspected the trucks and there was no "Red Dye" they knew the truckers were avoiding paying additonal tax.

It's the other way around... Diesel fuel has no red dye; red dye is added to non-motor fuel, which is cheaper because highway tax isn't added. If the DOT sees red fuel they know no tax has been paid.

Red dye is added to Disel for use as #2 oil. This was done because fuel oil #2 was cheaper than Disel and truckers were using it to save money. If the DOT inspected the trucks and there was no "Red Dye" they knew the truckers were avoiding paying additonal tax.

I meant to leave "No" out. Sr. Moment lmao

It's the other way around... Diesel fuel has no red dye; red dye is added to non-motor fuel, which is cheaper because highway tax isn't added. If the DOT sees red fuel they know no tax has been paid.