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Chulett,
How big a hole are you talking? Are you using a newel post with a pin on the bottom? How about a drill guide with spade bit or make a right triangle guide using your rise and run for the a and b sides, then flip it over on top of your stringer to get a plumb line to follow.
Mike Hawkins

can I just use wood drill and drill up on the 12 inch stringer about 8 inches then use long wood screws..after pilot hole made to attach the posts that way? I would then put in wood dowel and flush it

This make sense?

No. I would cut the tenon on the bottom of the newel. Then I'd locate it's exact position on the stringer and mark the position for the mortise on the stringer. Drill your mortise out and clean it out with a chisel. Drill for dowels (slightly out of position, so it draws the joint tight) from the inside of the stringer so you dont see the end grain of the dowel from the outside, or drill right through, stop the dowel short and fill the remaining hole with a plug.

Chulett,
I see what you are trying to do now. Nice house btw. A lot of routers are available with adjustable tilt bases. That would be an easy way to route your mortises. They also make collet extensions if your bit isn't long enough. I would route the mortise in a few steps and not try to hog it all out on one pass. So a plunge router with a tilt base would be worth a try.
Your 8" rise should be ok. I wouldn't go any higher. 8" is right at the top end of what a good riser should be. I usually shoot for 7 1/2" if I have a choice.

your riser height should be determined by the total height of the stair divided by how many steps you need. As the other poster said, 8" risers would be the highest. I'd just hate to see you have 13 steps that are 8" and the last one be 6" or something like that. The total height may mean that all your risers may be 7"....or some other number....but it should end up being between 7 to 8" per riser

That's a beautiful staircase you're trying to replicate....it would be nice if you could post your finished photos when you're done. I would love to see how that turns out

GOOD! Thank you! Ok..I live in small town with a lowes, wal mart and ace hardware stores...I cant find a tilt base plunge router! I have a fixed base plunge router, but I need to route out the stringers for the tendon on the post!

Any suggestions as to how I can "McGiver" it? I guess Im getting old referencing a tv show from the 80s!

i would drill an 1-1/2" hole through a block of wood. say a 4x4 block about 6" high. drill it straight with a drill press if possible. Go all the way through. Then cut the bottom of the block to the pitch of your stringer...You now have a block to drill your string with. I use a 1-1/2" auger bit to drill the hole.I screw my drill guide block to a piece of plywood so you can hold it down on your stringer and have something to clamp to. Drill hole in stringer.
Then drill same size hole on bottom of newel and fit 1-1/2" dowel (closet pole) into hole to fasten both together.

If you make the stringers thinner than the post, you could have had the post straddle the stringer. This would make a strong connection.
You could also cut make a plumb cut on the stringer and make a 1/2 lap on the post and fasten the post right through the face and into the stringer.

If you make the stringers thinner than the post, you could have had the post straddle the stringer. This would make a strong connection.
You could also cut make a plumb cut on the stringer and make a 1/2 lap on the post and fasten the post right through the face and into the stringer.

I was thinking along these lines too, but the stringer doesn't need to be thinner. Just notch out maybe 3/4" on each side of the stringer and slip the post over the stringer and dowel it. You'd need to make sure the post is straight grained where you notch it out