October 9, 2013

Spit-roasted goat is only part of the reason why this Kingsbridge hole-in-the-wall makes some of the best tacos in town.

For the city’s best Mexican food, we’ve often looked east to Queens or south to Sunset Park, Brooklyn, but the Bronx also has its fair share of praiseworthy south-of-the-border establishments. Rancho Escondido delivers killer mole poblano and sturdy tortas, including a greasy “cheese of pig” (headcheese) iteration that sings its salty serenade. Best of all is the spit-roasted barbacoa, whose fat-slicked shreds of goat come tucked into neatly rolled tortillas layered with lettuce, tomato, onions, silky queso fresco, and cilantro. They’re also a solid deal–$8 for three. Beyond a few squeezes of lime, the plate comes adorned with slices of cucumber and radish–but the cabrito is the star. Parts of the beast are meltingly tender, while some have a crunchy char smoky from the fire. Off to the side: Two of the better salsas we’ve come across, the red so rusty with chilies that pouring a spoonful over the top of the tortilla threatens to stain the whole plate; the green verdant with herbs and tempered by chunks of avocado. In truth, they’re nearly as fun to eat as the tacos themselves, and they complete the meal. Enhance the experience by watching Taqueria Rancho Escondido’s fast and loose promo video.

Later this year, we’ll pen our Best of New York issue, our annual love letter to what’s great in this town. When that paper hits the streets, you’ll find our picks for the very best this city has to offer when it comes to dozens of cuisines, restaurants, dishes, and drinks. Until then, you can get a taste of our contenders as we count down, in no particular order, our 100 favorite dishes from around the boroughs, a list of laudable eats worth tracking down right now.