Apple cider, nutmeg and mace flavor the batter for these giant doughnut holes, which fry up with a thick crust. A toss with cinnamon sugar finishes them off.

Apple cider, nutmeg and mace flavor the batter for these giant doughnut holes, which fry up with a thick crust. A toss with cinnamon sugar finishes them off. (Abel Uribe/Chicago Tribune; Joan Moravek/food styling)

You make this discovery after slicing 15 pounds of apples, rolling 6 pounds of pastry, grinding 2 pounds of crumble and sprinkling 1 pound of sugar. Grasping two corners of the pan, you tug. Hard. Muscling 24 pounds of pie into a hot oven, you learn, is easy — compared with getting it out.

The downside of the 21-inch wide, 400-degree slab pie strikes you — right at T7, mid-thoracic spine. Justin, the physical therapist you later engage, identifies the spot when he prods your back and declares: “Here?” Followed by: “What were you lifting again?”

Justin prescribes stretches and crunches, which you attempt to work, while he and his colleagues plan their weekend of hiking and apple picking, followed by apple-cider doughnuts. It occurs to you that doughnuts, too, feature fall’s best fruit. They’re quick, delicious — and extremely lightweight.

1 Mix: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, salt and mace. In a separate bowl, whisk together butter, egg and cider. Pour wet ingredients over dry and mix with a wooden spoon just until a thick dough comes together.

2 Test: In a heavy pot at least 3 inches deep, heat 2 inches of ghee (or oil) to 350 degrees. Using a 1 ½-inch diameter ice-cream scoop, scoop up a generous ball of dough and drop it in. Cook, 4 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Wait 1 minute. Cut in half. If done, you’re good to go. If not, add 1 minute cooking time to your next batch.

From charcoal-fueled tabletop barbecue to homestyle stir-fries to kimchi on everything — both traditional and the unexpected dishes — we're seeking out the best Korean food in Chicago. Follow along as we post a new dish every weekday.