ERIE, Pa. -- You might not believe this, but Christmas is only three weeks away. Because Thanksgiving was so late this year, Dec. 25 comes at us pretty fast, and it can be hard to scrounge up our holiday spirit.

"At Christmastime, people will spend a little bit more money" on food, Hill said. "It's a treat. People really treat themselves well for the holiday, because it's a once-a-year thing."

It's also about tradition.

"I think, unlike some of the larger cities, we have more strong traditions here," said Gordon Art Evans, owner of Art's Bakery. "People, especially around the holidays, cling to tradition. It means comfort and gives a sense of belonging in a world with an absence of that."

It's also about the cookies. There's never been a year without cutout cookies from Art's Bakery. Not in the last 40 years anyway.

"Sponge candy is unique to Erie," he said. "And we manufacture 400 to 500 5-ounce bags a day."

He said he's tried to describe sponge candy to someone who's never had it, which is just about everyone from out of town.

"It's impossible," Stefanelli said. "The experience is unique. It's airy and crispy. It's different, but pleasing. It's not a taste you have to acquire."

As opposed to bacala, that is. Demand for the strongly flavored dried, salted cod fish, a much maligned tradition in many Italian families, is never higher than at Christmas, said Gerry Urbaniak, co-owner of Urbaniak Bros. Quality Meats

Same story with veal breast. "Yes," Urbaniak said. "We have customers from Scandinavian countries that use it to make a dish with bacon and pickles. "I beg them, 'If you have an extra piece, bring it back,'" Urbaniak said. "It's sensational."

Some Erie specialties come served in a glass.

Erie Brewing Co. sells out of its seasonal Ol' Red Cease and Desist and a Wee Heavy Scotch Ale every year.

"At 10.1 alcohol by volume, it's not for the faint of heart," said Jen Lowther, EBC sales manager for the Northeast region. "But it drinks like it's much less. You can't taste the alcohol -- which can be good and bad," she said with a laugh.

Mazza Vineyards does a brisk business with its Victorian Holiday Wine, which is mulled with cinnamon and cloves and served warm.

"It's great when it's cold and snowy out," said Mario Mazza, the winery's enologist and general manager. "People say it gets them in the holiday spirit."

He suggests serving it from a slow cooker. "It fills the air with that aroma," Mazza said. "It smells like the holiday."

Many would say it's not Christmas without a ham from Smith Provision Co.