Clams in a Cataplana Casa Velha

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Jean Anderson's book The Food of Portugal. Anderson also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.

The Portuguese ingenuity for combining pork and shellfish in a single dish dates back, it's been said, to one of the darker chapters of Iberian history  the Inquisition. Amêijoas na Cataplana, together with a number of other pork-shellfish combinations, were invented as a sort of culinary double-whammy to test one's Christian zeal (pork and shellfish being proscribed to both Jew and Moslems). On a recent swing through the Algarve Province, where this popular cataplana recipe originated, I tried to verify the theory, without success. Manuel Paulino Revéz and Esteban Medel do Carmo, assistant directors at Faro's Escola de Hotelaria e Turismo do Algarve (Algarve Hotel and Tourism School), both doubt that there's any connection between the Inquisition and the creation of Portugal's many pork and shellfish combinations. They do admit, however, that Amêijoas na Cataplana is a recipe so old that its genesis is clouded by the dust of ages. Whatever its origin, the gloriously soupy mélange of unshucked baby clams, ham, and sausages in garlicky tomato sauce is supremely successful. This particular version comes from Casa Velha, once one of the Algarve's top restaurants. Now closed, alas, it was located in a historic, heavily beamed farmhouse amid the umbrella pines and luxury estates of Quinta do Lago near Faro. Note: Portuguese clams are tiny, thin-shelled, and uncommonly sweet. The best substitutes are West Coast butter clams or, failing them, the smallest littlenecks you can find. This dish need not be prepared in a cataplana, a hinged metal container shaped like a giant clam shell that can be clamped shut; any kettle with a tight-fitting lid works well. Finally, this is a naturally salty dish, so add no extra salt before tasting.

Preparation

Scrub the clams well in cool water, pile in a large deep kettle, add the cold water, salt, and the cornmeal, which acts as an irritant that forces the clams to purge themselves of grit. Let the clams stand in the cold water about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Stir-fry the onions, garlic, and green peppers in the oil in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat 8 to 10 minutes until limp and golden. Add the bay leaf, tomatoes, and their juice. Break up any large clumps of tomatoes, bring mixture to a simmer, cover, and cook slowly for 30 minutes; add the tomato sauce, prosciutto, smoked ham, and pepperoni, re-cover, and cook 30 minutes longer. Note: You can make the sauce as much as two days ahead of time but do not buy the clams until the day you plan to serve the cataplana. The sauce should be covered and refrigerated until you are ready to proceed.

To assemble the cataplana, spoon half the tomato mixture into the bottom of a very large cataplana (it should measure about 15 inches across) or into a large heavy Dutch-oven type of kettle, and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Adjust the heat so that the mixture barely boils, arrange the clams on top, spoon in the remaining tomato sauce, cover tight, and cook 10 minutes over moderately low heat  no peeking. Open the cataplana or kettle, pour in the wine, scatter the parsley evenly on top, then toss the clams lightly. Re-cover and cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes longer until the clams open  discard any that do not.

Carry the cataplana or kettle to the table, open, and ladle into large soup plates. Serve with Pão or other rough country bread. Note: Be sure to put out a large bowl for empty clam shells.

Jean Anderson shares her tips with Epicurious:
"Portuguese clams are actually cockles, which are small and sweet, with thin shells that open quickly," says Anderson. "In America, I recommend that cooks use the smallest clams they can find."
In the Algarve region of Portugal, you can follow the sounds of hammering through tiny backstreets to find workmen pounding out copper cataplanas, clamshell-shaped cooking vessels that somewhat resemble double woks. The word cataplana refers to dishes cooked in this vessel (usually steamed or stewed chicken or seafood, sometimes with pork) as well as to the vessel itself. While a cataplana's tight domed lid and thin copper base will transmit heat quickly and allow for fast, hot steaming, any heavy, deep, tight-lidded skillet or Dutch oven will achieve similar results. A cataplana will make for lovely presentation, however, and can be purchased in many upscale cookware shops.
If you live in an area with a Portuguese community, you may be able to find mellow, nutty presunto and subtle, garlicky chouriço, which will give this dish the most authentic flavor. However, Italian prosciutto and Spanish chorizo make fine substitutes.