Paris Men’s Fashion Week spring 19: nine catwalk trends to know

Yellow lines: A popular colour already on the London catwalks, a spectrum of yellow shades swept across the spring 19 Paris catwalks. From pastel limoncello at Acne and glistening gold at Raf Simons, to egg-yolk hues at Thom Browne and Y/Project. Statement yellow trousers were a highlight, as extravagant “talking point” trousers emerge as another low-key trend for the season. (Left to right: Acne, Dior, Raf Simons, Thom Browne)

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Yellow lines: A popular colour already on the London catwalks, a spectrum of yellow shades swept across the spring 19 Paris catwalks. From pastel limoncello at Acne and glistening gold at Raf Simons, to egg-yolk hues at Thom Browne and Y/Project. Statement yellow trousers were a highlight, as extravagant “talking point” trousers emerge as another low-key trend for the season. (Left to right: Acne, Dior, Raf Simons, Thom Browne)

Comic relief: Giant cartoonish graphic prints brought a quirky playfulness to casual collections in Paris. A more subtle approach to logo-mania than in recent seasons, quirky characters and statement designs were popular, and are sure to be a hit with younger consumers. Off-White’s Bart Simpson motif was perhaps the most notable, and continued a 2000s rave culture sensibility. Undercover’s manga-inspired sweatshirt and Valentino’s mournful owl hoodie were other examples. (Left to right: Off-White, Comme des Garçons Shirts, Undercover, Valentino)

Boys n the hoodies: The luxury shift towards a sporty aesthetic came to a head in Paris this season: the French labels presented their polished, fresh – yet still wildly flashy – take on the trend. Kim Jones pioneered the look at his former home, Louis Vuitton, and continued the theme with his debut at Dior. Floral bombers, logo trainers, “CD” caps and belt detailing, all in luxurious silk and elegant prints epitomised the look. At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh, another pioneer of the streetwear trend, fused it with luxe in the form of hoodies and bomber jackets in casual but luxurious fabrics. (Left to right: Dior, Sean Suen, Valentino, Louis Vuitton)

Pick a pocket or two: Practicality was key this season, as accessories and clothing combined to give plenty of options for going hands free. While cross-body and bum-bags appeared numerous times, including at Off-White and Hermes, the real statement styles came in an evolution of the cargo vest. Slung over outfits as waistcoats with high pocket counts, the style was most visible at Louis Vuitton, White Mountaineering and Junya Watanabe Man. (Left to right: Sean Suen, Louis Vuitton, Junya Watanabe, White Mountaineering)

Baggy for life: Milan introduced relaxed, slouchy tailoring to the spring agenda, and nonchalance was equally popular on the Paris catwalks. Loose-fitting trousers, billowing shirting and oversized jumpers lent a casual charm to Acne and Ami, while Raf Simons’ take on the giant, draped jumper was moodier. Soft tailoring and shirting made an impact at Dries Van Noten, Issey Miyake and Lanvin. (Left to right: Acne, Lanvin, Issey Miyake, Raf Simons)

Stuck in the 1980s: The 1980s have been a popular reference on the catwalks for several seasons now, and Paris continued fashion’s nostalgia for the era. Oversized proportions flashed back to the decade: Y/Project’s leather jacket was a highlight. Balmain’s opulent collection dressed down in flashes of casual jeans and T-shirts, hinting at the sporty/rocky influences that also popped up at Off-White. Paul Smith provided a sharper alternative, as dapper suiting and oversized proportions in neon lilac. (Left to right: Balmain, Off-White, Paul Smith, Y/Project)

Blanc canvas: Virgil Abloh set the tone of his debut season at Louis Vuitton with a series of looks in pristine, crisp white. While Abloh may have been signalling a clean start for his role at the luxury house, bright whites dazzled across the catwalks. In springtime looks, it lent a softness to the streetwear styles of Louis Vuitton and Junya Watanabe. While at Hermès‎ whites suggested relaxed Riviera chic on tailoring and relaxed daywear. (Left to right: Hermès‎, Louis Vuitton, Rik Owens, Junya Watanabe)

Jean mutations: Jackets, waistcoats, shirts, shorts, hats and trousers in all types of denim were spotted on the Paris catwalks, so for spring 19, the fabric will be far more than just jeans. Frequently paired together as double, triple or even quadruple denims, shapes were slouchy, patchworked and relaxed with a tinge of 1990s nostalgia. Bright blue tones at Y/Project and Off-White and super-pale washed tones at Valentino and Facetasm were the key colourways for the season. (Left to right: Balmain, Facetasm, Off-White, Sacai)

Suitable boys: Sportswear may have stretched its influence on to almost every catwalk in Paris, but judging from the shows this season, designers are adamant that there is still a place for a strong, statement power statement suit. Slim-outline tailoring came in eye-popping shades, such as ketchup red at Louis Vuitton and acid yellow for a classic, double-breasted suit at Dior. Dries Van Noten’s 1960-inspired collection resulted in a relaxed set in fiery ombre. Other labels, such as Alexander McQueen, played with patterns and florals for a sense of sophisticated drama. (Left to right Dior, Dries Van Noten, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton)

There was an air of anticipation in the City of Light this season ahead of the debut collections from two of menswear’s most innovative – and controversial – designers as they took the helm at two of the big French fashion houses.

Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Kim Jones at Dior Homme provided plenty of fanfare, and signalled a continuing shift in luxury towards a sports-inspired, youth-focused strategy. Drapers brings you the top trends from the spring 19 Paris catwalks.

Buyers, designers and the Drapers team braved plunging temperatures in the capital this week for the autumn 19 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM), which settled into its new home in east London.

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