How to Master Matzo Ball Soup

There’s a science to the perfect matzo ball soup. Here’s how to master the key components, from the pillowy-light balls to that rich, golden, rejuvenating chicken broth.

Every Great Ball Begins with SchmaltzIf you’ve never cooked with chicken fat, you’re in for a treat. Schmaltz lends an incomparable flavor and luxurious texture to matzo balls—butter and vegetable oil can’t compare. And don’t worry about wasting any extra; you can use schmaltz in plenty of other dishes, too. There’s a reason schmaltz belongs in your matzo balls and your fridge: Most brands render theirs with onion, lending an irresistible essence to whatever you pair it with. Use it to roast potatoes or to give a rich flavor to sautéed greens.

Sink or SwimBuoyancy is a hot-button issue when it comes to matzo balls. Some people like theirs to float; others prefer sinkers. While ours do sink, they’re far from leaden. Their lightness doesn’t come from leaveners like baking powder or egg whites, though; it’s because we rest the matzo mixture in the fridge for at least two hours, where it hydrates and expands.

How We RollAsk us, and the perfectly sized sphere is somewhere between a golf ball and a tennis ball. Also: Be gentle when shaping your matzo balls. Heavy hands will make them compact and overly dense. “Leavening ingredients won’t matter if you don’t handle your matzo balls properly. Pack them tight and you’re packing more mass into volume, thereby increasing density and making them heavy,”says Larissa Zhou, food scientist for Modernist Cuisine.

Simmer DownMatzo balls should never be poached in chicken broth. (They’ll release starch and turn an otherwise clear broth cloudy.) The proper method: Poach them in a separate, very salty pot of just-simmering water. Think of your matzo balls like sponges; cook them in under-seasoned water and they’ll turn out bland.