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Wednesday, August 21, 2019

Variation to Emmons Climbing Route

Crevasse at 13,000'

Rangers from Camp Schurman proofed a variation
on the standard climbing route on Sunday. As the glaciers open up more and the
route changes adding more distance to the climb, this new route takes a more direct
approach up the Emmons Glacier.

Variation to route up the Emmons Glacier

Leaving from Camp Schurman the route negotiates
a heavily crevassed section of glacier until you reach Emmons Flats. The crevasses
in this area are traditional to the route this late in the season and are
mainly composed of skeletal ice.

Looking down at Camp Schurman from atop Steamboat Prow

Crossing the Emmons Flats and lower "football
field" is mostly sun-cupped soft snow. Several large snow bridged cravasses at
the base of the corridor are well supported and easily crossed. Take a look
under the snow bridge to see what is supporting it. If it seems questionable
then look for other options.

From the top of the corridor, approx 11,000’ the
route can be climbed out to the right, following the standard summer line of ascent,
or out to the climber's left into the upper Emmons Bowl. This upper bowl holds
large deposits of winter snow making it challenging uphill travel early season. The large expanse of smooth snow is a great
option for late season when the snow pack is consolidated and boot penetration
is minimal.

Route
finding through the upper Emmons Bowl to 13,000’ is relatively easy with the
majority of the landscape visible. Taking a low approach (climber's left side of
the bowl) will offer some distance from seracs and occasional ice fall that releases on the right side the bowl. The left hand side will also give a more direct
ascent line to end run large crevasses extending across the slopes.

At
the 13,000’ elevation there is a large vertical fin of snow that marks the top
end of the bowl. This also marks the beginning of the route finding. The
landscape above is hidden from view, but with every new crest additional large
expanses of smooth terrain will appear.

Climb right of the fin at 13,000' to end run two
parallel crevasses. From this point the route trends left, but doesn’t meet
up with the Disappointment Cleaver Route - not that far left! Climbers will find small snow bridges
where the seemingly impossible crevasses narrow down to the point where small
snow bridges provide passage.

New route

If you're looking for adventure on Mount Rainier and want something new,
then try a late season Emmons Climb. This route doesn’t disappoint!