B-A-R-B-A-R-A. C-A-S-A-S-O-L-A. If there was ever a way to engrave your label’s orthography into the collective fashion psyche, it would be to have Jamie Bochert’s dulcet voice spell it out over your show sound track. The young Brazilian designer Barbara Casasola did just that during London Fashion Week, insisting the model and musician (her muse since shooting a pre-fall film together) was a wellspring of inspiration, and the reason for her wide-brimmed hats, too. “I thought it was an emotional way to start the show,” Casasola said backstage. “I could see her wearing every single look.” It’s true that Bochert’s coltish form would slip beautifully into one of the various jumpsuits that Casasola showed for fall 2014, a piece she has made her signature and that opened the show with a bold shoulder and cinched waist. It returned later as a new tuxedo overall strapped over the bust—elegant in that way Casasola makes tailoring feel so easy and sensual.

While designing fall, Casasola looked at the contrasts of her homeland, a surprisingly pure trajectory with not a clashing print nor adornment in sight. “Brazil is in my DNA, so I wanted to show a side of it that is not a cliché,” she said. “I had the feeling of opposites—modernist and Baroque, masculine and feminine. I wanted to explore the duality of being Brazilian, in a clean way.” As such, blush tones, black, and gray were the go-to colors for wool crepe blazers cut with a wide lapel; her trousers are peg-legged and hit the ankle or are cut full with a loose flare. The eveningwear heats up with fuchsia, cherry red, and amethyst tones popping up in crepe shifts traced with ribbons, a watery jacquard coat, or a series of floor-grazing column skirts sculpting a high waist. Slashed midriffs and décolleté on show were where Casasola played her balancing act, with plunging necklines and silky keyhole cropped tops ensuring boxy tailoring never turned dowdy.

In perhaps a nod to Niemeyer’s Brasília, Casasola softened her clinical, gray showspace with a floating wall decorated with wide windows and succulent plants. It broke the runway monotony as models wafted in and out of view, walking to songs by David Lynch and Lykke Li, matching the geometries of square-cut separates and a pretty hide-and-seek jacquard.