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Best Use of the Worst Cheese

"The Record Breaker"

Provel, she is a divisive cheese. Some people stand beside her unflinchingly; others turn up their noses at her mere mention. Every so often, however, these opposing factions are able to set aside their processed-cheese differences — such as when they chow down at Callier's Deli & Grill. The venerable Ballwin eatery has been serving up sandwiches, pastas and pizzas since 1983. The décor celebrates all things St. Louis sports (Rams, Blues and Cards pics are everywhere), and the deli celebrates all things St. Louis cheese with the "Record Breaker," an open-face roast beef sandwich — as in real roast beef, not the ersatz kind — on garlicky French bread with gooey Provel melted on top. You'll find the "Record Breaker" in the "Home Runs" section on the menu, which, we conclude, entitles diners to...yes...go crazy, folks, go crazy! — as you eat together in harmony.