Intense Hong Kong by Lydia Shire

Lydia Shire Tuesday, April 02, 2013

Hong Kong is probably the only city outside of the USA I could happily live in! This past trip, a few weeks ago, was my fifth time but my first time without my great friend, Bik Ng from Hong Kong, showing me the ropes and doing what she does so well…searching out the very best in places to dine. I missed her on this trip but at this point, I felt so comfortable “going it alone.” Everyone speaks English. The city to me is pure joy! It is a ‘walking’ city with the most spectacular views of the mountains rising over Hong Kong Island and the skyscrapers meeting the bay. Yes, there are fewer junks (houseboats) traveling Victoria Harbor than there were when I first saw this glorious place back in 1985. It was then that I went to cook in Guangzhou (Canton) with Kitty Dukakis and Mary Richardson and other Boston chefs. Sure, a lot has changed (more Gucci’s everywhere!) but the city is still the most eclectic mix of money and grit. That keeps it real!

My son, Alex, had traveled there on a trip with his best friend, Tyler, who is Chinese-American. His family had planned a trip there and asked Alex to come along. They had amazing Peking Duck in Beijing and went to the little seaside village where his Grandpa was born two hours outside of Guangzhou and they ate the very best tender-fried butterfish (alive moments ago) in the lightest batter. They also had live shrimp, cooked on the spot, and deep-fried baby black lizards where you eat the entire squamate reptile…bones and all. If this seems a bit squeamish to you, that is actually not my point to scare you but instead to let you know in China, in general, food is of the moment…much fresher than what we typically see here. I have always said I think the Chinese have it over everyone when it comes to technique, and France comes in second. France invented puff pastry and the soufflé but China invented Peking Duck and Roast Suckling Pig, both w/ shatteringly great amazing skin! They also invented the earliest “spaghetti.”

Lo and behold, I told my friend, Arthur Winn, over dinner one night at Hamersley’s Bistro that I was on my way to meet Alex for his last few days in Hong Kong. COOL! Arthur joined us (I love people who don’t have to agonize over every little decision). Yeah!!! We all stayed at The Peninsula[1] on Kowloon side (my favorite hotel in the world!). With the very best service anywhere (though my business partner, Patrick Lyons, swears by The Upper House[2] on Hong Kong-side). The view from the 21st floor looking out to Hong Kong Island as the lights of the city come on at dusk is something I cannot explain… Simply magical!

Arthur, Alex and I had the most amazing roast pork buns at Tim Ho Wan (long wait to get in every day for dim sum!). I had simply the best Peking duck at Spring Moon[3] in The Peninsula. The pancakes alone were small and delicate and so thin with little brown specks on them. They had flavor…not those rubbery white ones you see in the US. I had chive-filled dumplings and shrimp dumplings with the whole tender shrimp inside. Har Gau at Hutongs is a very hip place, high up on Kowloon side. At The Chairman[4], a very cool spot in H.K. and a hard rezzy to get (book ahead), I had these tiny crispy Yellow Croaker fish (expertly fried), wild clams stir-fried with chili, tea-smoked duck with tamarind, steamed spareribs and braised layered bean-curd (though I am not a bean-curd fan!). Also had amazing roast goose and deep-fried delicious frogs legs at Yung Kee[5] AKA “The Goose Restaurant.” My friend, Bik, sent me to the best roast pig restaurant on Place 18 Cheong Lok Street near the Jordan Street area on the Kowloon side…BEST I have ever had! I had dim sum at Maxims[6] but wished Bik was there (it’s a little hard to catch everything by yourself while the carts go by!).

Lastly, I will not forget what the chef did at Spring Moon. Nights before, I had mentioned to the waiter that I had never tried the famous flaky baked turnip pastry Hong Kong is known for. I went there for my last lunch and as I was devouring my last crispy whole pigeon and a pork belly roll, out come the most beautiful Turnip Pastries, handmade with Chinese puff pastry. They melted in my mouth! How sweet of the chef to go out of his way. It’s just another reason to love The Peninsula!

Let me not end this without saying I never went shopping (those who know me know I always go shopping!). Please check out this little street on Hong Kong side: Gough Street off Aberdeen Street near Hollywood Road. It has whimsical little shops that are independently owned. You will love this street!

In closing, thank you Arthur for ALL you did! It was so special being with you and Alex for those four incredible days eating as we did. And, by the way, you have beautiful taste in all that you do!