Restaurant Guide 2013: Natural Selection

[IMPRESSIONIST CHARDWORK] Natural
Selection likes to make its metaphors plain. Not only on its vegetarian
plates but in the procession of scrolls on its walls, which showcase
vibrant roots, fruits, gourds and leaves. The chef’s station is an
island kitchen ripped from Martha Stewart’s lookbook, both domestic and
imposingly rustic-opulent. Though Natural Selection’s dishes are
available singly, the place functions best if you spring for the $40
weekly rotating four-course tasting menu, which has vegan and
gluten-free items always available. There will be no carb-heavy,
oil-laden calorie dumping here, no half-digestible faux meat or vegan
junk food, but rather a succession of dishes that use vegetal flavor and
texture as tightly arranged pointillist construction. It’s perhaps a
bit fussy, and gut-buster gourmands may find the portions stinting, but
the restaurant’s successes are terrific (though not always guaranteed),
as with a recent padron pepper gnocchi and a beautifully composed salad
of heirloom tomatoes both hearty and tartly green, filigreed cucumber
curls, melon and citrus tang. All delicacy fades when it’s time for
dessert, however: The final course comes straight from grandma’s
kitchen, with comfort items such as carrot cake or peach-and-blueberry
crumble that steamroll their fig or mint cream garnishes and play those
heartstrings pure.

Ideal meal: Couples should order one of each dish on the menu and swap.

Best deal: For the gluten-happy, draft beer is a mere $4 in a sea of $8 drinks.