Enter dates

Hotel Highlights

Great location next to the Duomo

Edgy, urban design

A buzzing bar

Overview

An unassuming exterior hides the edgy, yet elegant interior of Straf Hotel & Bar, a style-savvy boutique in Milan that is filled with art. Design by Vincenzo de Cotiis is both minimal and tied to fashion, with bare-concrete walls and rich chocolate lounge chairs in the lobby.

Smith Extra

Here's what you get for booking Straf Hotel & Bar with us:

A free drink of your choice at Straf Bar, and a platter of seasonal fruit

Packing tips

Also

Little dogs (the fashionable kind) are invited, too.

Children

Welcome: extra beds are free for under-12s; €88 a night for teens.

Food & Drink

◐View Gallery

Hotel Restaurant

Breakfast and lunch are served in a neat little room, with glossy white table tops, square leather seats and textured colour-block canvases. The novel Euro-Asian fusion à la carte lunch menu has dishes such as Thai pasta or salmon with black rice. Dinner isn’t on offer, but a complimentary Milanese finger-food buffet is laid out at 6.30pm.

Hotel Bar

Dark, compact and edgy Straf Bar is a magnet for the fashion set, drawn here by the retro good looks (aged leather sofa, acid-green lightshade mushrooming from the ceiling), potent cocktails and generous nibbles. Drinking sessions officially end at midnight, but it’s often open later.

Last orders

For dinner, 10.30pm. The bar closes at midnight but will stay open later for you if you ask.

Room service

It’s drinks-only by day: try one of the exotic teas (sweet pan yong golden needle, or kimono: green tea with rose petals and cherry) from 7am. In the evening, a selection of Italian staples can be ordered until 10.30pm.

Smith Insider

Dress code

As directional as the decor: Jil Sander for the ladies, Alexander Wang for the gents.

Top table

Sit in the corner booth by the glass wall for the most privacy. For easy access to the buffet at breakfast, sit at the other end, closest to the spread.

Local Guide

Worth getting out of bed for

Visit Sforzesco Castle (+39 02 8846 3700; milanocastello.it), a leisurely 15-minute stroll from the hotel; there’s a museum of ancient art on the ground floor of the Corte Ducale, a stash of antique furnishings, and a selection of musical instruments on the first and second floors of the rocchetta (little fort).

Local bars

At aperitivo time, the Porta Ticinese area gets packed out; a few hours here is a quintessential Milanese experience. Stay up late for Bar Basso (+39 02 2940 0580) and its potent cocktails at 39 Via Plinio. Roialto on Via Piero della Francesca is 700 square metres of restaurant, cocktail bar and cigar bar, with a rooftop pool (+39 02 3493 6616; roialtogroup.it). Executive Lounge (aka the Fiat Open Lounge) on Via di Tocqueville is a candlelit Indonesian-style bar with cushions and low wooden tables, open until 2am (+39 02 2900 2267; www.executivelounge.it). By the entrance to Parco Sempione on Via Luigi Camoens, Just Cavalli Café is as flamboyant and sexy as one of designer Roberto Cavalli’s clinging mini-dresses, all oriental fabrics and antelope furs, open until 2am (www.justcavallihollywood.it).

Straf Hotel & Bar

3 Via San Raffaele, Milan, 20121

Planes

Milan has three airports: Linate (30 minutes from Bulgari Hotel), Milan Bergamo (45 minutes) and Malpensa (50 minutes). There are no trains from Linate, but the 73 bus will drop you at Piazza San Babila, just a 10-minute walk from the hotel. There are trains every half hour (until 11.10pm) from Malpensa to Piazzale Cadorna (10 minutes away by taxi). From Linate, your only option is the Terravision express coach, which will take you to Milano Centrale station in 60 minutes (around 10 minutes from the hotel).

Trains

The hotel is a 10-minute taxi journey from Milano Centrale station, where you can get local and regional trains to the rest of Italy and elsewhere in Europe. Be warned, express trains cost more than the regional equivalents which make more stops; see Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.icom) for details.

Automobiles

The hotel is right next to the Cathedral, so once in Milan, simply follow signs to the centre or ‘duomo’ to find it. You probably won’t need to drive within the city; plus, Milan is well-served by public transport, with both a metro and tram system. You may well want a car to visit Bergamo, one of the most beautiful cities in Northern Italy and just under an hour’s car drive away. Guests receive a discount at a nearby private garage with valet parking.

Straf Hotel & Bar

Anonymous review by Sarah Jappy, Wordsmith wondergirl

The architect and artist behind Hotel Straf is meditating atop a mountain peak in a toga, chewing goji berries and ruminating on his future hotel’s interior design. He fingers his mala beads. ‘Coloured soft furnishings? Pah. Wallpaper? So last season. Carpet, schmarpet. Door knobs? Such bad energy.’ He turns to a gnomish devotee beside him, and intones: ‘My one indulgence shall be: the Wellday massage chair – more knot-kneading than a thousand masseuses, more relaxing than a thousand bubble baths. And – the people – they shall come.’ With that, he levitates.

Now, I can’t verify that Vincenzo de Cotiis actually designed Straf quite like that. But it’s how the minimalist and modern interiors should have been conceived. When Mr Smith and I arrive at the hotel’s secretive, beetle-black entrance, we trip over a smiley man in a hoodie and trainers, who opens the glass door for us. ‘Wow, what polite staff – even off-duty,’ we muse. Turns out he’s wearing the front-desk uniform. We’re in Milan, remember: a hoodie here is as smart as an amorphous garment can be.

Such aesthetic severity does funny things to Mr Smith. I can hear mutterings from our metallic bathroom: ‘What? That’s the tissue dispenser?’ Locating the minibar is tantamount to seeking out the Holy Grail. We stand helplessly before a giant sliding glass door. ‘It must be hidden down a trap-door,’ we conclude. ‘A secret underground passageway that leads to the Duomo perhaps?’ suggests a getting-carried-away Mr Smith (our hotel is steps from the sacred stone behemoth). Thirty minutes later, we reach an anticlimactic conclusion: the glass panel is stuck. With an almighty shove, Mr Smith uncovers a little fridge, stocked with wine and nibbles.

Snacks demolished, and massage chair tested (I’m saving up for one; they’re only $2,795), we venture out. I wasn’t sure I’d like Milan. I’d heard it was industrial, unsightly, even hostile in parts, and I’d read somewhere that if you aren’t wearing Gucci, waiters actually cannot see you. Yet coming here proves like falling in love with a friend’s ex-boyfriend: they’ve warned you against him, but all you can see is his sexy side.

Strolling around, we unwrap Milan bit by bit. Cherry trees in blowsy blossom billow by the cathedral. Friendly and funny waiters feed us delicious pasta. The fashion capital is of course full of shops (and retail is my religion). The sun shines. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II glitters with fripperies, and there are people wearing dandified uniforms. There’s a moment of panic when I realise I’m sans sunglasses (this is akin to going without trousers in Britain). I purchase some. Disaster averted.

We shoot up to the top of the Duomo in a lift. The roof is slanted like a giant Toblerone. A billion feet (roughly) above ground, I make an inconvenient discovery: I suffer from vertigo. We come down again, sharpish. We wander inside the Gothic cathedral and watch a service. A lady sings like an angel, and a shockingly embarrassing thing happens: whenever her voice soars into the silence, rivers of tears run down my face. Worried I might start speaking in tongues, and unable to fight the spiritual tremors, I quickly drag Mr Smith into the secular security of outdoors.

Religious highs give way to fleamarket thrills. At Fiera di Senigallia, in the canal district, hipsters mingle and vintage Prada luggage costs €100. We pretend to be Italian. We are in love. We are also at our most glamorous. For my funeral I want pictures of us in Milan emblazoned across my coffin. I shall pretend this is how I always looked: clad in black cape and skinny jeans, black pumps, Chanel bag, giant sunglasses, and a bouffant up-do that is admired (bizarrely) by an Italian stallholder. (Him, pointing at my head: ‘Thees ees from your miiind?’ Me: ‘Sorry? What?’ Him: ‘Youu cam up with thees look from your miiind?’ Me: ‘Er. Yes.’ Him: ‘I liiiiike. Iz niice!’ Me: ‘Thanks. Goodbye.’)

After obliterating our earnings, it’s time for an utterly futile mission. A minibreak wouldn’t be complete without one fruitless pilgrimage. We trundle around: footsore, thirsty, seeking a phantom restaurant. An hour later, we arrive. It’s closed. We perk up with espressos at Pasticceria Marchesi, followed by Campari and olives at Resentin. Because we’re hungry, we linger. Since landing in Milan, I’ve been dreaming about risotto Milanese. We order big bowls, and tuck in. The saffron lends a flavour I can only describe as mediaeval – try it, you’ll understand.

It’s testament to Straf’s greatness that, amid Milan’s many distractions, we miss our neat-as-a-bento-box boudoir. We hop on an apricot-yellow tram, and 10 minutes later, I’m back in that massage chair, being rubbed robotically, and listening to opera on the TV’s inbuilt stereo. I’m so happy, I start bawling like a baby. (Again.) Mr Smith has no choice but to order a bottle of prosecco.

Our stay in Milan has had the emotional range of a Shakespearean drama: tears, laughter, lust (luggage-induced) and love. I’ve felt my knees wobble with fear, and I’ve cried buckets. It rained. Twice. Despite this, here at Straf Hotel, Mr Smith and I have had a blast. Vincenzo de Cotiis – grazie mille.

The Guestbook

Reviews of Straf Hotel & Bar from Smith members

Whenever you book a stay through us, we’ll invite you to comment when you get back. Read the Guestbook entries below to see what real-life Mr & Mrs Smiths have said about this hotel…

Michael

BlackSmith

Stayed on
29 Dec 2014

We loved

Exceptionally cool hotel in the best possible location in Central Milano. The staff on the reception desk were incredibly helpful and couldn't do enough for you - the panettone was very welcoming too! The Straf bar was a highlight too during apertivo with great cocktails and achingly cool music and people, definitely the place to be. We went our the relaxation room with the massage chair which was great after a long day in the City. Nine out of 10.

Don’t expect

The breakfasts were rather chaotic with too many people in a small room at peak times and the staff couldn't cope. They should maybe use the bar area as overspill. We also had to change rooms as there was building work going on next door.

Rating:
9/10 stars

Iain

BlackSmith

Stayed on
3 Dec 2014

We loved

Arriving in Milan's Linate airport we took the bus to Milan Central and then asked the taxi driver to take us to our hotel The Maison Moschino. Are you sure he asked I think it has closed down. We had to see for ourself and sure enough it was closed. We took refuge in a small bar beside the hotel while we contacted Mr Mrs Smith. I must add at this point this was not their issue but were extremely helpful and efficient in finding another hotel. So another taxi to the Hotel Straf. We arrived at the hotel late evening and reception were expecting us. The travel company had phoned ahead. They only had standard rooms available as the rest were full. Good sign. Our room was on the 4th floor to the front and as we went in were taken aback. No carpets on the floor no decor on the walls, just bare concrete, the bed was in the middle of the room with next to no furniture. It looked like the builders and decorators had forgotten to finish the room. Complete contrast was the bathroom with fantastic burnished steel walls with a large mirror on one wall. There is no bath just a walk in shower. So after a few minutes while we tried to figure this out we worked out the room was finished and this was just a quirky hotel. We headed back down to reception and the young chap explained the theme of the hotel. I had no complaints the room and bed were comfortable and enjoyed our few days there although it took a while to figure how to turn out the lights. Have a look in the panel in the back of the headboard. The hotel has a central location and is a stones through from Duomo and the designer shops you expect in Milan and you are surrounded by plenty of resturants to suit every pocket. Breakfast was continental style with a good variety of breads, meats and cheese. You can also order cooked breakfast for an additional 7 euro which is good value. All in all a good stay considering the start we had. If you are looking for 5 luxury then this is not for you but if you enjoy the quirky and unusual then give this a try.

Don’t expect

Be sure you are ok with the quirky hotel.

Rating:
8/10 stars

Michael

BlackSmith

Stayed on
26 Sep 2014

We loved

Staff very helpful and friendly, nice reception area.

Don’t expect

Seemed expensive for room although probably paying for location. Breakfast area too small for my liking.

Charles

We loved

Don’t expect

I thought breakfast was a little too cramped on the Japanese-style tables.

Rating:
10/10 stars

Clive

BlackSmith

Stayed on
9 Aug 2014

We loved

I liked the convenience for the centre of Milan, and the friendly and helpful staff.

Don’t expect

I found the black bathroom a bit strange!

Rating:
8/10 stars

Dominic

BlackSmith

Stayed on
25 Jul 2014

We loved

I liked this funky and quirky place with helpful staff.

Don’t expect

I found the seating at breakfast a bit too functional.

Rating:
9/10 stars

Donna

BlackSmith

Stayed on
24 Jul 2014

We loved

The Straf is a perfectly positioned hotel in the heart of Milano. Our room was very elegantly appointed and supremely comfortable. The breakfast bar was excellent and all the staff were extremely attentive and very friendly.

Rating:
10/10 stars

Amanda

SilverSmith

Stayed on
2 Jun 2014

We loved

I loved the proximity to shopping.

Rating:
10/10 stars

Robert

BlackSmith

Stayed on
8 May 2014

We loved

I loved the style and staff.

Don’t expect

Breakfast could be better.

Rating:
10/10 stars

Derek

BlackSmith

Stayed on
23 Apr 2014

We loved

I liked the central location, the very efficient and knowledgeable concierge, the modern design and the comfortable bed.

Don’t expect

Some parts of the room are beginning to show some wear and tear. The WiFi was not strong enough for Skype conversations.

Rating:
8/10 stars

Price information

If you haven’t entered any dates, the rate shown is provided directly by the hotel and represents the cheapest double room (excluding tax) available in the next {dayrange} days.

Prices have been converted from the hotel’s local currency ({currency}{rate_ex}), via openexchangerates.org, using today’s exchange rate.