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R75/5 Center Stand Question

I'm about to replace the center stand on my 1972 R75/5. Can anyone tell me where the two rubber "stoppers" go? (referred to as grommets in other diagrams). They are #6 and #7 on page 671 of the Clymer Manual (fig. 3). Or #18 and #19 in this diagram: http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...um=46521237786

The diagrams show them forward of the center stand, which makes me think they aren't bumper stops. I've looked under my bike and can't figure out where they would go.

Over The Springs?

Hmm. That's an interesting idea - hadn't considered that. Over the springs might also help keep them somewhat in position, so they don't pop-off the lugs on the stand when they are not under tension (stand is up). I have an electrical tie doing that job on one spring at the moment!
Thanks.

I'm not gonna say the diagram is wrong, as it's been a while since I've examined one down there, but when I saw it, I was kornfused: those two items look like the bushings that go in to the stand mounts, to ease the pivoting and provide a sacrificial "wear point". Lightly grease those with moly.

For the springs themselves, any durable rubber sleeve will stop the rattling and singing. If there is ANY question about the reliability of the springs, replace them. Don't over-stretch them during installation; use a hooked tool or small flat screwdriver - NOT a pliers (gouges will create stress fractures) - to pop them over the fingers.

Thank You Tooldtocare

You were absolutely correct tooldtocare, the rubber "grommets" or bushes go over the springs that connect to the center stand. My original ones were obviously long gone when I bought the bike. Thanks for your input - I think I'd have been puzzling over where they went for some time.

The thinner of the two grommets goes over the left hand spring (side stand side). The thicker one on the right hand side.

For anyone who decides to order a new stand from 2WheelPros.com, be aware it comes with the rubber cap (end stopper) already fitted (at least mine did). You don't need to order the cap separately (Part # 46-52-1-236-522). Well, at least I have a spare. You will also probably need a Dremel to gently grind the holes in the stand so that the metal bushings/spacers can fit.

New stand went on this morning. The bike is now much more stable than it was. The old stand was very worn and had lost the tang on the side.

Many riders use/d it to lever the bike up onto the stand. It was never intended for that; it should only be used to lower the stand to the ground. Step on the stand itself while pulling up on the lifting handle (by the saddle) to raise the bike.

But then, you knew that.

"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John WoodenLew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
1963 Dnepr

Glad all is well now. When I rebuilt the one on my R90S I got a good stand from Oak because my tang was also missing. I then did the usual, new springs, bushings, rubber tips, etc. One think that I also had to do was re-tap the frame to accept a standard thread bolt because the old threads were all but gone. I then used locktite red to hold them in place. I later sold the bike to a friend, but I still see and ride it from time to time. All is well nearly 9 years later.

For future reference:
The old weld spot for the tang can be drilled and tapped to take a 2-inch long 10-32 screw; use a dab of Loctite and screw it in about 1/4 inch. Double-nut it against the weld if you want to really hold it.
The bottoms of the arced "feet" sometimes get thin; you can weld a mild steel plate (slightly curved to fit) directly to them. Let the plate go all the way across (covering & between both legs) and you have a wider, more stable footprint on the centerstand.