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Topic Review (Newest First)

12-04-2003 11:41 PM

speyman

Furling

I have tied them with furled 15# Maxima and it works very well.
The 15# also works all the way down to size 4 Oqner hooks which is my only requirement.

I share your concern about the hook riding up but so far have not observed it as a problem. I also like the stiffest possible material but I stick with the lighter stuff so I can use the smal hooks in January.

The option Aaron uses is to use a short piece of plastic tube to hold the hook to the shank. If I did that it would be a long plastic tube becuase I want the hook way back like I tie it.

As folks continue to tie and fish these sorts of patterns I would like to see more feedback on experience with some of these problems if they turn out to be problems.

12-04-2003 08:19 PM

Jumbo

question

Speyman,

your answer to the question about the length of the dropper was a little unclear to me...i understand that you've lengthened the dropper due to short strikes...but have you also sized the hook down as well...
i've tied a similar, nonprawn pattern for years, but use size 1 hooks. can you clarify you point..IE...is it your opinion that the smaller hooks (2's or 4's) will give you a better hook up ratio?

12-04-2003 10:05 AM

Don Johnson

comment on the harness

First of all, that is a really neat pattern. Very cool!

Now, if I may suggest, if the harness material is furled it will prevent the stinger from "floating" around on that loop. I am uncertain if that can be easily done with Fireline but furling works well with mono, braided Dacron and braided stainless, all of which are decent harness materials.

The reason I suggest the furling is that if the hook has worked it's way up on the harness and the fly is taken hard, the act of the hook sliding down the loop then coming tight in a rapid motion can lead to breakage of the harness regardless of the material used. The other thing furling will provide (or at least it does with mono, Dacron and stainless braided wire), if possible with Fireline, is to slightly stiffen the stinger thus reducing the propensity for fouling of the stinger around the Waddington.

http://www.geocities.com/salmn8r/furledstinger.html is a link to my cheapo-site that depicts some of the steps to easily furl the material once the stinger hook has been attached to the material. If the furl is left somewhat loose (done by hand and not on a Nor-Vise), the stinger hook is still replaceable on the harness, which has obvious benefits.

Please let me know if there are questions about the technique.

Happy Holidays!
Don Johnson

12-03-2003 12:22 PM

Gardener

Thanks for that; I did wonder if it was to counteract short takes, but didn't know whether this was a regular problem with steelhead.

12-03-2003 12:08 PM

speyman

Trailer length

The hook ends up right at the back end of the feelers. The reason for this is in cold conditions the fish just pick up the fly but do not agressively hammer it. This was resulting in a lot of short bites. By moving the hook back and going to a smaller hook, size 2 or 4 in these cold conditions I found I was able to hook almost every fish that picked up the fly. I am lucky to be a guide and live on the rivers and get a lot of feedback from feisty Steelhead. This allows me to hone the tools till they work great!

12-03-2003 12:04 PM

speyman

shanks

The shanks are made for me in England, I buy them by the crate. Spinner shafts work well also. The shanks come to about 30 cents retail each so I have finally gotten the price to a reasonable point.

The Fireline if laced to the shank and then the tag end goes through the shank, pulled back tight against the lacing, and then wrapped three times around the shank. Then repeat 1-2 more times. Then do the same with the other end of the Fireline. I have tried a variety of methods to attach the trailer but this seems the most reliable.

All the goodies to build the prawns are available at River Run Anglers in Carnation, wwww.speyshop.com.

12-03-2003 12:02 PM

Gardener

Speyman

Good looking flies. I am struck by how far the hook trails behind the body of the fly - yours sit almost level with the tips of the whiskers of the prawn, rather than up near the eyes as would be usual in prawn patterns for atlantic salmon. Is there a particular reason for this?

12-03-2003 10:39 AM

natrix

How do you do that

Speyman

Awesome prawn. I really like that one. I have been playing around with waddington’s for a little while, but I have been making my own shanks out of stainless steel wire. I buy the wire at the tackle shop in pre cut lengths. They sell it for spinner shafts. I see that the shank on your prawn fly as well as the shanks on your web site appear to be a larger diameter wire and they have a black finish. Do you make them ? if so what do you use. Second, how are you attaching the hook to the loop of line. It looks like you run the whole loop through the eye and then around the shank.

12-02-2003 05:21 PM

speyman

Or the original

Orange

12-02-2003 05:19 PM

speyman

Hot Pink

Try this one for size

12-02-2003 04:06 PM

flytyer

Jack,

Thanks for getting the pic up. Now I know there are those who want a concise pattern material list (I know you already provided the materials with the tying instruction; however, many people do not want to read how to tie and would rather just see a concise pattern material list). Just provide it is standard pattern form of hook through body to head. Your prawns really are very good flies.

12-02-2003 11:07 AM

speyman

finally

I tried for quite a while to get the picture to take. The old computer whiz Jack could have done it but Speyman seems to be computer challenged, what a change in a few years!

Sorry to take so long. The picture is an all Pink or Coral goody which is a killer squid imitator.