Burgundy: the 2001 vintage

Each January London's wine trade turns itself over to showing the wines of the latest Burgundy vintage. These 2001s are on sale now "en primeur"
with a big promotional campaign to back them. By and large the whites have already been bottled, whilst the red wines are about to be bottled in Burgundy
before being shipped. Notes on the red wines in particular therefore, carry the caveat that all "barrel sample" tasting notes should: these are not necessarily finished wines,
and the assessment should be taken on that basis.

Although wine-pages easily offers the largest body of original material added to any UK or world wine site by a single author, when I realised I could not attend "Burgundy week" in London this
year, I resolved that wine-pages visitors would not lose out. I commissioned two of the UK's most trustworthy professionals to do the job for me: Rosemary George MW and Neal Martin.

Rosemary George MWRosemary has, literally, written the definitive text books on many world wine regions including the South of France and, one of her great passions, Chablis.
Of the 2001 Chablis Rosemary notes: "2001 was not a great year in Chablis, with a week of wet weather just before the harvest and an indifferent summer. The
Côte d'Or did not suffer quite the same problems with rain as Chablis, but it was still not a great summer." However, Rosemary has identified a few producers who have made very
good wines in all regions.

Neal MartinNeal is wine buyer for one of the biggest
importers of fine wine, specifically Bordeaux and Burgundy, into Japan. Neal holds the WSET Diploma and is a regular taster for Wine magazine panels. He says:
"I've marked the wines I recommend with an asterisk. It was intèresting that taking price into account I've tended towards village wines and avoided the 1er crus, but a few Grands Crus were so good that I believe they are genuinely worth the money".

There follows a series of tasting notes on over 110 white wines, presented by stockist where possible. Part II has notes on 165 red wines. Prices are estimated in some cases, and are per dozen bottles "in-bond", so £14 duty per case, plus 17.5% VAT, must be added.

John Armit whites

by Neal Martin:

Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
* Nose of cut grass. Not intense. Good balance with herbal/mineral notes. Quite full and plump on the finish. Cleanly made. A very good wine in a so-so good vintage in Chablis. 19/25. £120

Domaine Marquis d`Angerville Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
Faint citrussy fruits on the nose. A little flat and blowsy on the palate. Simple. Lacks depth. Slightly peppery. The oak dominates the wine. Expect more from such a fine producer. 15/25. £195

Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
Again the palate lacks complexity. Obvious. Peach. Full-body. Well-integrated creamy oak. Orange/apricot. Fine early drinking but not the best meursault by any means. 18/25.

Berry Brothers & Rudd whites

by Rosemary George MW: "Some of the whites seem remarkably forward and already enjoyable drinking; while the reds have a refreshing fruitiness, with acidity as well as some
tannins; or there are more structured wines with some obvious oak influence. This is a random selection of highlights". Prices per case In Bond.

Haynes, Hanson & Clarke whites

by Rosemary George MW: "Some delicious wines; whites that seemed relatively forward, but with good acidity levels, and reds in two styles; some again very forward with a refreshing acidity, and others in which
the oak is the dominant flavour, for the moment". Prices per case in Bond UK, unless otherwise stated.

Justerini & Brooks whites

by Rosemary George MW: "Vincent Dauvissat and Laurent Tribut have both made some good wine - to quote Marie-Claude Tribut "we were lucky", but she also thought that hand-picking helped them select the best grapes in the
vineyards. The wines are relatively forward with less ageing potential than 2000. Vincent Dancer showed a range of elegantly understated, subtly rich white wines".

Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very clear. Faint/floral notes. Backward. Palate is intense, tight. Apricot and petrol. Very complex but this will take years to come round. Superb. 21/25

Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pale lemon. As usual, nose is Very backward and dumb. Palate is intense with citrussy fruits. Very fine acidity. More feminine and elegant than 00. Touch of apricot on the finish. 8-15 yrs. 22/25

Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
Very pale/neutral colour. Restrained nose. Faint mineral/apple but not much intensity. Some SO2 on the palate with a bitter lemon finish. Maybe this will improve but I`m not sure. 17/25

Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Clos de Léchet
Quite grassy on nose. Hedgerow/some violets. But again the palate is very disappointing. Lacks vigour and complexity. Very weak on the finish. Poor. 14/25

Lucien Denizot Montagny 1er Cru Le Vieux Château
* Very pale lemon. Nose is lush and peachy. Very attractive. Good concentration with lemon/apricot notes. Good complexity. Engaging with a sensuous oaky finish. Very impressive and great value at £100/cs 19/25. £102.00

William Fèvre & Bouchard whites

by Rosemary George MW:

William Fèvre
"Both Fèvre and Bouchard are now owned by the Henriot empire. These wines have improved enormously, showing finely crafted flavours in a relatively difficult year. Good steely acidity and mineral fruit. Several of the premiers crus seem quite forward and would make
enjoyable drinking now, before going into their customary adolescent phase, from which they will take three or four years to emerge. The grands crus have more concentration and are currently less charming than the premiers crus. They will certainly repay some bottle ageing. Domaine William Fèvre have holdings in all the grands crus vineyards except Blanchots".

Domaine des Morats St.-Véran
* From the makers of Chateau Fuissé, whose own wines represent stunning value. Still a little SO2 on the nose. Lovely balance and nervosity with crisp apple/mineral notes. As good as a 1er Cru Puligny! 20/25

Ch. de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Combettes"
* A massive wine which you would swear is a Puligny in a blind tasting. Stunning definition with well-integrated Old oak. Crisp citrussy finish. Unbelievable value at £137.00