Amana SCD23VBL Side by Side. Evaporator froze up! Pulled circulating fan and it checked ok. Measured voltage and it was approximately 57 volts. As the coils defrosted the voltage started to and continued to climb. Last reading it was near normal at 112 Volts.

My problem ended up being the Defrost Terminator. This is a device which senses when the freezer compartment has reached some specified temperature. At that point, in this Amana, it opens which disconnects the defrost heater and also stops the circulation fan allowing the evaporator to frost up. When the temperature has dropped enough, the Defrost Terminator resets allowing normal operation. Good Luck!

My problem ended up being the Defrost Terminator. This is a device which senses when the freezer compartment has reached some specified temperature. At that point, in this Amana, it opens which disconnects the defrost heater and also stops the circulation fan allowing the evaporator to frost up. When the temperature has dropped enough, the Defrost Terminator resets allowing normal operation. Good Luck!

Unit ices up and does not keep cool properly in both sides. The water dispenser freezes and and they have to turn it off to get that to thaw out then start over same.

My daughter has this problem the repair man replace the thermostat and defrost timer and still the same.

The fan spins when the cycle calls for it the best I can tell.

What is the defrost limiter and where is it.

Isn't it the same as the defrost timer ?

Appreciate your help !Unit ices up and does not keep cool properly in both sides. The water dispenser freezes and and they have to turn it off to get that to thaw out then start over same.

My daughter has this problem the repair man replace the thermostat and defrost timer and still the same.
The fan spins when the cycle calls for it the best I can tell.
What is the defrost limiter and where is it.
Isn't it the same as the defrost timer ?
Appreciate your help !

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There may be damaged or broken wire to the evaporator fanThere are two wires to the evaporator, one hot and one neutral Unplug and check the neutral against ground with a continuity tester if ok test the other wire in a non invasive fashion using a safety pin

The way you do is to insert the pin say at several points on the wire until you discover where the break is. Use alligator clips, one is to be connected at the connector of the fan hot wire ( The suspected wire that may be broken) With alligator connected at the end of the wire connector, insert the pin at different points to check wire integrity with an ohmmeter. Where there is no continuity, that is where the break would be.

If that does not work, you probably will have to run a new wire. Here is a hint: The evaporator fan runs only when the compressor is running. If you can extrapolate, you can find an alternate way to reconnect the evaporator fan and have your fridge running in no time.

Make sure drain hose is not clogged up. Check evaporator fan, (small fan in freezer compartment). it should come on after door is open a couple of minutes. Feel air vents in fridge side for a stream of cold air, if none or too weak, remove back cover (where fan is) and check for frozen evaporator coil. If evaporator is frozen, air can't circulate thru unit, keeping fridge side from cooling and freezer side below freezing point.

If this is the case, unplugg unit from power outlet, and use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt ice, make sure all vents are clear.

Once the evaporator coil is free of ice, dry freezer, replace back cover and plug unit back on. Check temp. settings, should be about 1/3 of the dial range. If necessary, make additional adjustments every 24 hrs.

Hi, I deal with evaporator motors on a day to day basis.If the motor is running but not up to full speed, the inner windings of the motor are going out. If the motor runs as you say, is it getting only 94 volts to it? If this is the case, check the incoming voltage to the unit itself. Check to see on the schematics what is between the motor where you may be loosing your voltage. Defrost thermostat, or timer. Check power to the timer first and get back to me. The defrost thermostat supplies power to the fan when the evaporator temperature gets cold enough and the contacts will close and send power to one side of the motor. If it is going bad, it will cause you to loose part or all of the voltage. If you have a meter, check this. It is round and sealed with 2 terminals on it. If it is cold enough, you can check the leads to ground and see if you are getting less then 120 volts coming out the motor side. If so, replace the thermostat. Please keep me posted. Sincerely,Shastalaker7PS Be safe around electricity. Also, this defrost stat snaps around a evap. line.

There are a couple to possibilities. Either the Evaporator coil is iced over or the fan is not circulating air. All of the cold air comes from the freezer if no air circulates the refigerator will not get cold. check to see if the evap coil is frozen over. If it is deforst it with a hair dryer. for continuity with an ohm meter if it is open replace the heater if not check the defrost thermostat. If it is open replace it. If not replace either the defrost board of the defrost timer depending on which it has. If it is the fan not working check for voltage going to the fan. If you don't have any replace the defrost timer

Replace the defrost bimetal . On older Amanas' , the coil has to be cold , before the evaporator fan starts ( bimetal closes ) . This way , heat from the defrost cycle , will not be blown into the refrig section .

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the
back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL)
or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR
PROBLEM).