When I was a child, during every monsoon, the Chenab — the river of love — would break free from its banks and flood agricultural fields around it.

While crossing a bridge spanning the river in Punjab, I remember feeling a strange sense of helplessness to see water as far as the eye could see. It was hard to tell where the river ended and the flooding began.

The floodwater used to be spread over kilometres, destroying everything in its wake, but also leaving behind it seeds of life — fertile soil — as the water receded.

Now as I pass over the same bridge, the mighty river of the past flows meekly under the bridge. Its banks are at least a couple of kilometres wide. Long gone are the days when it would break out of its confines and occupy a greater expanse of land.

With ample rain, the river just about manages to fill its banks.

Pakistan’s river cities

Environmentalists have been talking about Pakistan’s shrinking rivers for many years now. All of Pakistan’s major rivers, including the Indus, enter the country from India.

Many nationalists claim dam building projects across the border limits the flow of water into Pakistan. This narrative gained further credibility when in November 2016, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi threatened to cut the supply of water flowing into Pakistan from India.

The Indus Waters Treaty of 1960 divided the shared river network between India and Pakistan. While India was given rights over water from the Beas, Sutle, and Ravi rivers, Pakistan gained rights over the Chenab, Jhelum and Indus.

Soon after this treaty was signed, the Beas and Sutlej, which once flowed into Pakistan, disappeared. Their dried beds, which survived for a few years, were taken over by the ever-increasing population.

The Sutlej has given birth to several cities that have survived decades, centuries and even millennia in some cases.

For example, just where the Sutlej enters Pakistan is the historical city of Kasur, the city of the Mughal-era Punjabi Islamic philosopher and Sufi poet Bulleh Shah.

According to legend, the city was founded by Kush, the twin brother of Lav, who founded the city of Lahore. In Hindu mythology, they are the children of Ram and Sita.

Historical records suggest that Kasur was established in the 16th century by Afghan migrants who came with the forces of Babur the Mughal.

A little further south is the city of Kanganpur, named after a mythological Hindu princess, Kangna. Her father, the king of this region, was defeated by the forces of Arab general Muhammad Bin Qasim.

According to legend, Kangna’s brother, Maha Chawar, was taken back to Arabia by Qasim when the defeated king could not pay a war indemnity. The young man converted to Islam there.

When Maha Chawar returned home, his new religion was unacceptable to his father. The king and his advisors subsequently planned to murder him.

But Kangna found out about the plan, warned her brother and fled with him along the flow of the river. The king’s men intercepted the princess and the prince close to a village called Mandi Borewala, where they were murdered. A shrine to commemorate the early martyrs of Islam came up here later.

Along the way, on the disappeared bed of the Sutlej river is the city of Pakpattan, which sprung up around the shrine of Baba Farid Shakarganj.

The city’s name — meaning a “sacred ford” — is derived from the river. Born out of this lost river of Punjab, the city continues to grow as the shrine of the 12th century Sufi saint is a major attraction.

The Ravi and Lahore

West of the Sutlej is the Ravi, which enters Pakistan close to Kartarpur Sahib, the final resting place of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism.

Here, Guru Nanak tended to his agricultural fields for 17 years. Locals still believe that the Ravi floods its banks every few years to pay homage to the shrine of Guru Nanak.

Ravi also gave birth to Lahore, the second largest city of Pakistan. Once known as the city of gardens — laid out by numerous Mughal kings, queens, princes and princesses — Lahore became the centre of power for Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839) as he laid the foundation of the Khalsa Empire.

Under the colonial regime it became the symbol of the empire. It still is Pakistan’s most important political centre.

About 200km from Lahore are the remains of Harappa, one of the most important cities of the Indus Valley Civilisation. While another city, Mohenjodaro, came up around the fertile lands of the Indus river, it was Ravi that gave birth to Harappa.

Without these rivers, there never would have been an Indus Valley Civilisation.

Rivers of life

A quick glance at the map of Punjab shows that all the province’s major cities exist in the shadow of one of the five mighty rivers that flow through the plain.

A little further south from Harappa, is Multan, the city of saints, the city of Hiranyakashipu and Prahlad. It is located on the banks of the Chenab river. Many local historians conjecture that Multan, along with Peshawar, might be the oldest living city of Pakistan.

Also on the banks of the Chenab is Sialkot, the city of Raja Salwan and his son Puran Bhagat.

Gujrat, the Mughal city that became the gateway to Jammu, lies on the other side of the river.

Further south is the village of Takht-Hazara, from where it is believed Ranjha — of the Heer-Ranjha legend — originated. Traveling along the river, Ranjha reached Jhang, the city of Heer, where today both of them rest in one grave, their shrine visited by hundreds every day.

River Jhelum divides Potohar region from Punjab. It is on the banks of this river that Alexander of Macedonia fought with King Porus in 326 BC.

Over 1,800 years later, the Pashtun king, Sher Shah Suri, constructed his strategic Rohtas Fort west of the Jhelum river. There is also a Sher Shah Masjid in the ancient city of Bhera downstream of the Jhelum.

This city was once the hub of Buddhist learning in the region and continued to be a major political centre for long until it was overshadowed by other cities in Punjab.

Further west, all these rivers merge with the Indus one by one, as if paying homage. Indus is what gives India its name. It is the grandest river that leaves several cities in its wake — Mianwali, Dera Ismail Khan, Sukkur, Larkana, Sehwan, Hyderabad.

Thus, several cities in Pakistan owe their existence to the mighty rivers of Punjab. These rivers are the reason this civilisation exists and has existed for thousands of years.

What then would happen if one day these rivers cease to exist, as is being predicted? Pakistan is a water scarce country. Its rivers are drying up.

How long would these cities survive if their very source of origin dries out?

The article was originally published on Scroll and has been reproduced with permission.

Haroon Khalid has an academic background in anthropology from Lums. He has been travelling extensively around Pakistan, documenting historical and cultural heritage. He is the author of four books — Imagining Lahore, Walking with Nanak, In Search of Shiva and A White Trail.

The views expressed by this writer and commenters below do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.

Comments (28) Closed

I wait for Haroon's blog. It is always informative. His blogs increase my curiosity to visit Pakistan once in life.

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travellerAug 10, 2018 05:25pm

One word "POPULATION"

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RamanaAug 10, 2018 06:55pm

There is a soul in Haroon’s essay which is enthralling and captivating

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edward singhAug 10, 2018 07:03pm

There is rapid glacial warming in the Himalayas and reduction of water levels of all rivers emanapating from Punjab and Indian Kashmir ! Its hightime that India--Pakistan--Bangladesh start water conservation now--millions of tons go to waste in Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal !! which helps Gulf Oil Tankers to fill their ships with fresh water and return to Gulf.Maybe desalination plants will help and Israel and Australia are world leaders in this. I believe India already negotiating with Israel for help in this field ! Just a suggestion !

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JediAug 10, 2018 07:27pm

Nice write up. But 70% of rights given to India in the treaty is void. Then why India should adhere to this treaty?

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RajAug 10, 2018 08:17pm

Very nicely written...

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Vijay B..Aug 10, 2018 08:19pm

Instead of opposing and disputing everything India does, Pakistan and India should cooperate on building dams in both countries to tap the maximum amount of water and electricity from these rivers and share these boons equitably. It is a question of mutual survival, "United we stand, divided we fall." There is enough there for both countries if they choose to use it judiciously.

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SanjeevAug 10, 2018 09:25pm

In India also big rivers are under heavy pressure of population and industries. Lack of managements these lifelines are fading fast.

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Saleem RizviAug 10, 2018 09:40pm

This is a huge environmental and ecological challenge for Pakistan. While people are busy fighting over who is "traitor" and who is "patriot" in Pakistan, such monumental issues, it seems, are very conveniently and negligently ignored. I am sure, like me. most of you must have seen these mighty rivers majestically flowing through Pakistan but now they are increasingly shrinking and dying. Don't you think we should start thinking and talking about such issues too?

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arun1Aug 10, 2018 09:40pm

Pakistan gets over 80% of the waters of the six rivers of Punjab and Indus and lets 90% of this water go to waste to the oceans , it needs to build thousands of small dams and lakes to trap the waters

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venkobAug 10, 2018 11:55pm

Well written and very informative and facts. Not sure if it is coincidental or destiny but wherever you have Mughal and arab foot prints, that place turned to be a desert. Look at the entire area from Saudi Arabia and until north part of India.
India without Indus river is not good news for everyone living in Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Bangladesh. But let me tell you, nature will fix it if humans don't correct themselves.

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MothAug 11, 2018 02:44am

Pakistan has lost trillions of trillions of gallons of water in the sea since partition. That water is gone. More water wasted in the sea every movement.

Millions of gallons/tones of sewage dumped in rivers. That water is wasted - not fit for drinking.

Wake up wake up wake up. Still it is not late.

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skpAug 11, 2018 06:27am

There is a statement in the blog that says "Modi threatened to cut water flowing to Pakistan". Modi never made such a statement. Neither as Chief Minister of Gujarat nor as Prime Minister of India.

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GhoshAug 11, 2018 12:08pm

Very informative.

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AqbalAug 11, 2018 03:18pm

Matter of time before Punjab (both in Pakistan and India) turns into a semi-desert.
Pakistan and India should consider copying China's ONE-CHILD policy for a period of 25 years.

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AviAug 11, 2018 04:31pm

Your articles are rich in experience and facts.

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R SultanAug 11, 2018 05:25pm

A well informed and informative article raising serious concern for the future.

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AhmedAug 11, 2018 06:59pm

The water issue affects the poor the most. It will be a while before it hits the rich elite who will then perhaps start to leave the country, blaming it on poor management.

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rhassanAug 11, 2018 08:37pm

A very well-written article. It's important to remember the past so we can live in harmony in the future. Whether today we are Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist or Sikh, our origins as people of modern-day Pakistan and Northen India converge on the mighty Indus Valley civilization. Let us never forget.

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Sohail AnsariAug 11, 2018 09:46pm

Excellent piece. Your work in highlighting the history and landscape of the region is brilliant and much appreciated!

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Fahad khanAug 11, 2018 10:30pm

really good written & knowledgeful

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Bal K. GuptaAug 12, 2018 02:48am

Thanks Haroon and Dawn for such an informative article. Let me add another mighty river, Saraswati, mentioned in Hindu scriptures and rituals. It originated in Himalayas and flowed thru Punjab, Rajasthan, Sindh and reached port of Dwaraka before merging in Arabian sea. On the banks of Saraswati, Vedas were written. Due to earthquakes, the flow of water stopped from Himalayas and the Saraswati disappeared from Indo Pak. The dry river beds of Saraswati can be seen from aerial photo graphs. Hope human being do not create similar situations.

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Maria enteparia onnuchoriuAug 12, 2018 03:57am

As once one of the Pakistani minister complained that India takes electricity out of the water before it reaches Pakistan. Some people always complaint without finding the truth.

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VarunAug 12, 2018 08:25am

@edward singh
"millions of tons go to waste in Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal !! which helps Gulf Oil Tankers to fill their ships with fresh water and return to Gulf"

Gulf oil tankers take water from Arabian sea to the gulf? Maybe you need some fresh water yourself.

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AqbalAug 12, 2018 10:26am

Demand for natural resources exceeds supply ...
India's rivers are running dry too. Population explosion has not been controlled by countries in the subcontinent. China has done well in population management.

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Bhushan ParimooAug 12, 2018 01:01pm

thanks blessing dear good job most pressing issue
shared it on Environment Awareness Forum it concerns us

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marcusAug 12, 2018 11:53pm

According to India - No water belongs to Pakistan hence why 400 dams being built over the space of 5 years.

There is a water crisis already in Pakistan.

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BabuAug 13, 2018 01:11pm

Agree, that Pakistan's cities are dying but who is to blame. It can be summed in 3 i.e Population, Pollution and Education.