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Does anybody have a good source for replacement front wheel bearings for a mid to late 1970's D160 wheel horse tractor? There are two push in bearing units (inner and outer) per wheel. I first attempted to replace with standard bearings but quickly found out these are not standard sizes. It's been a while since I check and I don't completely remember, but I think the wheelhorse bearings where something like 1/16" of an inch larger OD than a standard catalog bearing. At the time, I remember finding bearings but they wanted somthing like $100 for each bearing. I was able to located two bearings and did purchase them for a reasonible price, but am still looking for two for completing the set. The part numbe ron the two that I was able to locate is 104396. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate.

Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80 the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8" what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks

I have a snowblower that has a bad bearing inside the auger on the chain side. Took it apart, and now I can't find a bearing like the one I need! One thing I need to know is if these parts are metric or American? If it is American, it is a 3/4" inside diameter, 1 5/8" outside diameter, 7/16" width. Anybody have a place they get them? Near Rochester, MN. It is a model 53321 snowblower I think as the model # plate is really scratched up.

Well maybe not for free but on a budget! Some of you old timers may already know this trick.
I wash my horses & decks alot. Almost after every mowing i wash the tops of the decks off and have underside quick wash connects installed on all of my mowers. The price I pay for all this cleanliness is usually payed back in the form of noisy deck pulleys, idlers & spindle bearings. Hence I have been known to spend a small fortune on pulleys & idlers that, for some, can be 40-to 50 bucks a wack. So after finally figuring out that these things just have common bearings in them that could be replaced if they weren't welded in tighter than a buxom beautie in a brass bra!!
Alas no more....
First step is wire brush the offending noise maker so you can identify where it is spot welded together. Usually a dark spot or a dimple marks the spot. Center punch the spot, notice the symetrical patern of the welds.

Next drill out the welds starting with 1/8" bit then 1/4". proceed to 5/16' if it appears that 1/4 " did not take out 90% of the weld.

Next position the pully on a block of wood and separate the halfs.
Use a small cold chisel.

It may take a bit of effort to separate them. If the half bend a little they can be hammered strait after apart.
Remove the bearing & drive out the bushing if it has one.

When going thru my front end I decided to replace the front wheel bearings, the real common 1 3/8" x 3/4". After getting a set of four off ebay they came with the grease seals on both the outside and inside. Question is should I remove the seals on the backside and continue to grease thru the zerk or let them ride as sealed bearings? My inclination is to let them ride as sealed bearings.