If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Miller 351 syncrowave pops breaker in +&- electrode not in AC

01-22-2013, 10:19 PM

metal blade style polarity switch. Welder was used for stainless only. It has been sitting in a warehouse for 4+ years unused KG241037 serial. 4awg thhn hard wired to 125 breaker. No cables no remote. Shows 40 volts in AC mode. Inside machine was dusty blew it out and have not seen any smoke trails or burnt smells. remote switch set to panel.
Jumpers set to 230
I have 250 volts coming in single phase
running of 200 amp panel
Was told it was pulled from a working shop (always the case) that did stainless sinks restrant equipment ect.
bare bones machine no options
only thing I see is a over temp(I think) switch has been unhooked and taped up
I am far with electical just looking for a place to start here
Thanks for any help that can be offered

metal blade style polarity switch. Welder was used for stainless only. It has been sitting in a warehouse for 4+ years unused KG241037 serial. 4awg thhn hard wired to 125 breaker. No cables no remote. Shows 40 volts in AC mode. Inside machine was dusty blew it out and have not seen any smoke trails or burnt smells. remote switch set to panel.
Jumpers set to 230
I have 250 volts coming in single phase
running of 200 amp panel
Was told it was pulled from a working shop (always the case) that did stainless sinks restrant equipment ect.
bare bones machine no options
only thing I see is a over temp(I think) switch has been unhooked and taped up
I am far with electical just looking for a place to start here
Thanks for any help that can be offered

More info:
NO pcf
on the thermostat unplugged... both fans come on with power on. Guessing they wired them to come on without on demand function.
unhooked D1 with diode test meter shows shorted. Never tested and huge diode with multimeter do they test like a normal diode?
Tried to move polarity switch from AC and big sparks from switch (before unhooking Diode) as I would expect...
anything else to test before ordering a diode?
I will clean the switch contacts up. They have gray sludge/dust on them.
But something is not happy inside. The D1 keep current from flowing one way right, So would it be right thinking the switch would work in another postion other than AC..IE + electrode or -electrode one would work and not the other?
037-956 part number for diode

Comment

BZZZZZZT Try again Jonny Diode replaced now breaker does not trip but still no action on + or- need to pull out and test scr's next..suddenly my sweet deal is getting to suck mode real quick......ggggrrr
in AC mode seems ok turning amp control numbers go up and down voltage stays at 40 pedal will be here in the AM...
McCullough Electric will be my friend before long very helpful on testing parts.

Comment

Made long rod a short one today! Stick works +&-.2 dead hockey pucks Tig well rig has no gas flow...gggrrrr sol. ohoms out at 8 ohms sol is rated for 24 volts AC but I have no voltage to it. New pedal and switch contactor is working need to get access to filter board and test it.....there has to be someone with some ideas here...Please on the relay board is a large clear plastic relay is this the one that controls gas sol?? I ran out of daylight and wits for today water torch works cooler pump did not blow up.

Comment

Well the saga ends today....IT ALL Works yea.....poor connection of ribbon cable many thanks to Mccullough Electric here in Atlanta for the help and having some parts for the old girl...this rig has the power to get it done and still has soft hands for the light stuff. I am rusty on tig....been a while I only have done stainless years ago. Back to the regular programing here..