Are they ok on snow and ice? I bought them because they had a commando sole but it's not as substantial as it appeared in the photos. I live in CO and wanted a boot that would do better in snow and ice than some others I own.

What do cobblers use to seal the sides of the soles / welt area? I'd like to get some in black, because the white stitching on the welt stands out way too much.

Can't decide whether to keep or flip on ebay, they're nice but a strange kind of hybrid boot. Work/combat/dress boot, lol. I think they will look better all black.

Does anyone happen to have any before/after photos or simply know how the cordovan no. 8 color is altered by applying some sort of leather protector or water proofing? I can't seem to find anything in regard to that color specifically.

Does anyone happen to have any before/after photos or simply know how the cordovan no. 8 color is altered by applying some sort of leather protector or water proofing? I can't seem to find anything in regard to that color specifically.

Have I ruined my boots? This is a rust pair and I put some feibings pure neatsfoot oil on a part overnight that was looking dry and I see then this morning with this big stain. Will the normal color return or am I out of luck.

Have I ruined my boots? This is a rust pair and I put some feibings pure neatsfoot oil on a part overnight that was looking dry and I see then this morning with this big stain. Will the normal color return or am I out of luck.

Why are you trying to spot condition? Do both boots like your supposed to.

Does anyone happen to have any before/after photos or simply know how the cordovan no. 8 color is altered by applying some sort of leather protector or water proofing? I can't seem to find anything in regard to that color specifically.

It would be greatly appreciated.

One on the left is untreated and the right one is liberally applied by hand with Chamberlain's LM #3 deep conditioner/ water repellant.

I've decided not to keep the Austens, I'm going for something with a more substantial sole. If anyone wants them for $230 shipped let me know, they are returnable for full refund so I'd be selling them at my cost, which is the cheapest you can get them anywhere AFAIK. Black, 11 D.

Picked these up instead, they were more than the 1ks but price was too good to pass up.

Pictures suck because I used my iPhone with just the house lights, but I was too lazy to do any better...

How to shine W1K's:

Dirty boots. "Before."

Step 1: Wipe down with damn rag. (Cut-up shirt here.)

Step 2: At this point I always wipe down with Lexol Conditioner.

Step 3: Brush. You can typically stop here.

Step 4 (Optional): I used Saphir Reno, just because I have it around. Applied with fingers.

Step 5: Brush. It's hard to tell because of how Photoshop Auto-Corrected the photo's, but they are slightly glossier here than after just Lexol. Buffing after brushing will always shine things up a little more, too. (I did not buff at any point so far, as that's usually a final step and I was not finished.)

Step 5: Different angle. Normally would stop here.

Step 6: Chromexcel does not take paste wax real well in my experience, so other measures are needed... Here I am applying 2-3 layers of Kiwi Brown paste wax.

Step 7: Hold the boot in one hand, upside down, and use a lighter in the other hand to melt the wax down. Slowly move the flame over the entire toe. You will see the wax get glossy when it melts. Let it cool down for a bit, then hit it with the brush. You can see, the shoe is not glossy at this point, but we've now created a consistent, smooth layer of wax that we can build from.

Step 8: Wax like you would any shoe. I apply a thin layer with a shirt in a swirl motion all over the toe. Make sure the wax or shirt has some moisture to it. When the shirt starts to tug, add a drop of water. I usually dip my pinky in some water and dab on a drop or two. Then continue swirling until the toe is dry. Add another layer and repeat, with less pressure each layer. Things should be getting smoother with each layer. Keep adding a drop of water at a time whenever your fabric swirls start feeling less easy/smooth. It's just like waxing a car.

Step 9: Buff.

I'll finish the other shoe at some point and take some proper photos. Wanted to get this up for ya'll.

Step 7: Hold the boot in one hand, upside down, and use a lighter in the other hand to melt the wax down. Slowly move the flame over the entire toe. You will see the wax get glossy when it melts. Let it cool down for a bit, then hit it with the brush. You can see, the shoe is not glossy at this point, but we've now created a consistent, smooth layer of wax that we can build from.

Will melting the wax in the can and applying it that way work? I am kind of scared to hold a lighter to my boots.

Very useful info especially using lighter part (that is new to me). What colour wax did you use sir on the cordovan? It's not very clear from the picture (either oxblood or cordovan).

My boots were actually the Rust, once upon a time, but they've been SnoSealed and Lexoled and Kiwi Browned to death, so they definitely appear Cordovan Chromexcel. I used Kiwi Brown on them, but really Cordovan or Brown or Neutral are good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AmericanLion

Will melting the wax in the can and applying it that way work? I am kind of scared to hold a lighter to my boots.

Never tried so can't comment. I put these boots in the oven for 10 minutes to apply the SnoSeal, so a lighter is nothing, lol. I've also used the lighter on calfskin before.

It's worth mentioning a fire-place lighter is easier, I just ran outta juice on mine.