Hi,
I have been using 3d solex nozzles for quite some time now. They have this internal geometry that has more walls inside the melt chamber enabling more heat transfer, therefore the throughput should be increased. I usually printed with .4 or .6 nozzles and they worked great.
Recently I needed to do some really fast prints so I switched to a .8 nozzle on an e3d volcano, which also works well

yes and its great especially because most models provide .step files, but you have to be lucky to find a model that includes the part you need, because you usually search for full model/assemblies and not individual mechanical parts.

Hi,
when designing new parts I often see myself spending lots of time on having to design mechanical parts like hinges, switches, connectors, collets, levers, screw connections etc. Even when I find a part I often have to rebuild them completely because the tolerances don't scale and while channels like this or [507movements.com] are a source of great inspiration designing those mechanisms int

Hi,
im trying to plot some text on my printer and im looking for a vector to gcode program.
The vector I generated in inkscape with a plugin called "hershys text" which is quite simple to use, but for gcode translators there are many for engraving and lasering but I havent found a simple one just for plotting with a pen.
I tried the gcodetools plugin in inkscape but i behaves a bit weird, i

Hi,
i have recently been playing around with using my printer as a plotter and I got asked to draw some invitations.
If I google single line or open contour fonts I find some but Im looking specifically for something that looks more like calligraphy.
Has anyone ever come across some good looking fonts like this?
Cheers

update:
turns out its the temperature. I had to lower the temp by 10C and now the extrusion is buttery smooth. dont ask my how the temp apparently dropped so much without triggering runout errors, but now it works.

maybe, earlier versions of this model i printed with 25mms and my setup can handle that and it still looked bad
also speed would not explain why only certain parts are bad because the perimeter speed doesnt change
this is screenshot from cura, the outer wall speed looks consistent

Hi,
Ive been printing in flex materials recently and i've observed this weird behavior. The outer perimeter looks pretty bad and patchy but then for a good portion it looks normal.
The perimeter speed is around 10-15 mms and I see no other underextrusion artifacts.
Top surfaces look normal.
The good and the bad portions are the same all around the model and I cant see any reason why this pa

Yes, that sounds like something usable.
I have a rough sketch of the mechasim, and in this vid you can see the trigger through the housing. I just dont want to reinvent the wheel and calibrate distances over several prototypes

Hi,
Im looking for a trigger mechanism that can repeat itself without the need to cock the firing pin. I basically want to hit a bell repeatedly. I remember that toy revolvers like this have exactly the kind of action i need.
Has someone come across a model or drawing of such a mechanism somewhere?

Hi,
Ive been using S3D for some time and I wanted to transfer my starting scripts to other slicers, mainly PrusaSlicer and Cura4.
Here part of my start script:
G28
G32
G0 X0 Y0 Z50
M109 S
M190 S
G0 Z30
...
Its hard to google somehow with keywords like "start script variables" etc, so has someone ever found a list or post, where all these variables like "extruder0_temperature" and "first_la

How did you calibrate the endstops? Are you sure nothing changed? because that would be weird.
Also do you plan on using any autocalibration?
If however youre describing the koncave or konvex motion then your delta radius is probably the culprit.

found this which answers the whole topic quite well. Its hard to imagine all the details but from the way i imagine the colorchanging process, it should indeed be possible to treat the motors as extra axis that need no extra controller.
and appearently there are already two projects that recreated the mechanism

Hi,
I recently ran into a MMU2 package on Aliexpress here that got me thinking if and how one could use that on non prusa printers.
There seems to be no consensus if the custom control board would even integrate with a non prusa controller. If the controller is too special, controlling 3 extra motors and a filament sensor with an expansion board should be possible.
Has someone ever tried this

Has someone ever tried using a bigger blower fan to pump air through a hose?
Common knowledge says that centrifugal fans have more pressure than axial fan, but how much more?
its a bit hard to find pressure data for the cheap blower fans. but here it says ca 350 pa
the berd air pump however says 80kpa thats one order of magnitude more...

Quoteleadinglights
A system such as the Mosquito may well work very well for most prints but may have problems if heat is finding other routes past the heatbreak. If the print and the filament need frequent retraction this may take more heat past the heatbreak area. Another source of excess heating will occur in heated enclosures and this will be aggravated if the filament has already been warmed

Yeah i watched some more vids about the mosquito and it delivers with a small fan by default.
What motivated you to build that setup? I dont see a heated chamber, or did you just notice that you dont need a fan?

Check it out. I just saw toms video about the mosquito hotend. Ive seen that before on the bondtec site and kind of dismissed it, but here they explain the concept. At 4:50 they also mention that the heatbreak is now so thin that it appearantly doesnt require a heatsink fan.
Im not 100% convinced because the heatsink is so small, but its an interesting concept. If this would work as advertised