Training

Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I'm such a mediocre climber. I'm outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I'm happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina.
Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depreRead More...

Hi everybody!
It ‘s been a four months since I gave birth to a small boy named Franko. Pregnancy was a real adventure but nothing compared to excitements of these days. Sure all parents know exactly what I am talking about :-) . Life has changed a lot but definitely for better and I truly enjoy it.
First month after cesarean cut was pretty tough. Generally I was happy and proud but in physically aspect felt horrible. Though I tried to prepair the best I can for those post surgery effects I was pretty shocked with how weak I was. Still two weeks after surgery I could hardly endure a five minute walk around the block and it took me a while to accept this condition.
The turning point in my recovery happened at the beginning of the May when I jumped into the sea for the first time. The water was still cold and I felt amazing blood rush through the whole body. This healing breath of life made me so alive again and probably this was the moment when I started to think about cliRead More...

In the previous weekend, on the 25th and 26th of May, the European youth bouldering championships were held in Switzerland. The competition was located amongst mountains in the city called Grindelwald.
Right after I finished my exam on friday the 24th I drove directly to Aalborg airport, flew to Copenhagen from where I continued to Zürich with my friend, Alexander. We arrived in Zürich at 19:35 (pm), and we had to continue our travel by train to Bern and afterwards to Interlaken Ost (in danish that sounds exactly like the translation of “a plate of cheese”, and after having had a very long day with both exams and long flights, we were both so exhausted and tired, that we were overly amused every single time the name of our destination was called up on the speaker. People must have thought we were completely retarded.) From “Interlaken Ost” we had to go by bus, to finally arrive at Grindelwald. At that time it was almost midnight. However, we were lucky that we lived only 1Read More...

One more winter season is officialy closed. Spent it mainly on area Markezina greda - the homeland of great lines and hard climbing.

It was long time ago since I stopped couting days spent on project known as Prvomajski zajeb. Although in the beginning it felt nearly immposible, from the moment I fell in love with this line, there was no way back. I invested unlimited amount of time and energy into it and last autumn I started to feel significant progress. Finally I reach the level to give serious attempts and was very pleased about that.

Me and my boyfriend Gu spent nearly the whole February in Tenerife for rope climbing and bouldering. Meanwhile Gu was focused on bouldering, I spent most of the time for rope climbing – and this is one of the best things about Tenerife: If there is a rope-climbing area, there is always a bunch of Blocs lying around wait to be climbed in its perfection. Gu was as usually super quick with repeating all boulders and he did so many first ascends that I was already after one week scared, he could get bored, BUT “fortunately” he found this super project witch wasn’t climbed for more than 10 years – although there were a lot of strong people trying it.
Meanwhile he was spending time on that project, I couldn’t get enough of all the rope climbs. There are so many areas with a lot of routes from steep to totally overhanging and there is endless potential for new routes and clean climbing (because of all the cracks). The only problem for me about Tenerife was – getting resting dRead More...

On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for.
In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves.
Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...