First-time trek reveals the beauty, risks of Arkansas trails

Oct. 23, 2013

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Written by

Katie Lamb

A group prepares for a photo on Hawksbill Crag in Arkansas. / Katie Lamb/News-Leader

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A photograph can attempt to capture the beauty of Arkansas’ hillsides decorated with the colors of autumn. But as I stood on the rugged platform of Hawksbill Crag, I knew a picture wouldn’t capture all of the senses that are brought to life.

Although I have fished the Buffalo and White rivers, I had yet to enjoy some of the more well-known trails in the Natural State. That changed on Saturday when I hiked the Whitaker Point and Lost Valley trails near Ponca, Ark.

After parking alongside a dirt road that was lined with the vehicles of others who also wanted to enjoy the weather — and the first weekend after the government shutdown — we began our walk toward Hawksbill Crag on the Whitaker Point Trail.

The cool air was an immediate reminder that autumn had arrived, and the high temperature barely crept into the lower 60s. The sun occasionally shone through the tree canopy, accentuating the oranges and reds of leaves that were slowly beginning to change.

The trail was softened by a thin layer of leaves that had already fallen, and orange triangles guided the three-mile hike that ends where it begins. People of all ages can enjoy the trail, but be warned that the uphill climb back is a bit more challenging than the downhill hike toward the crag.

There are a few stopping points along the way that give a glimpse into the vastness of the area. But those do not compare to the moment when you first lay eyes on the Hawksbill Crag.

The jagged rock is famous for being photographed during the peak of each season — and for good reason. Besides the beauty it is surrounded by, there is an ideal opening for a photographer to easily snap a picture of the crag and those who venture onto it.

When I reached the opening, a group of nearly 20 people were gathered on the crag. One man set a timer on a camera that was stationed on a tripod, and he quickly made his way back into the frame.

Once the group was done, I walked onto the crag for the first time. Normally, I am terrified of heights. But as I sat a few feet from the edge and absorbed the view, I felt a refreshing sense of calmness and enjoyed the cool breeze mixed with the warm sunshine.

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I walked onto a nearby crag that gave me the opportunity to capture a view that isn’t as frequently photographed. Although the view showed the immensity of Hawksbill Crag, it almost appeared small compared to the dense forest that stood below.

The large group continued to take photos, and several others arrived a short time later. My hiking partner and I made our way back to the dirt road — that is steep enough to be a scary climb or descent in a small sedan — and drove a few miles to our next destination.

Lost Valley is the most popular trail maintained by the Buffalo National River park service in Arkansas. Dozens of families were hiking on Saturday, erasing any signs that the park had been closed during the government shutdown just days before.

For about the first half mile, the trail is an easy walk on level ground. Then the rocky climb begins — but it’s worth it.

Almost every group seemed to have a designated photographer. Many gathered at Natural Bridge, where a stream trickled into a small pond. Rocks served as steps as we climbed toward Eden Falls.

Although the waterfall didn’t have much, well, water falling, it was still a beautiful sight. Surrounded by cliffs and trees that seemed to jet out from the rocks, it was a major focus of those who wanted to capture the elegance of nature in a photograph.

And just when I thought I couldn’t climb any farther, we reached Eden Falls Cave.

A family, most of them holding flashlights, was leaving the cave as we entered. It was then that a boy, probably about 5 years old with bright red hair, told me about the giant lizard living inside.

“There’s blood in there,” he warned. “But you’ll be OK if you have a flashlight.”

I told him I didn’t have one. His response was simple: “The lizard is going to kill you then.”

I stayed near the cave’s entrance and snapped a few more photos with the excuse that I didn’t want to get my shoes wet.

As we descended, people frequently asked how much farther they would have to climb to reach the cave. It was comforting to know I wasn’t the only one who felt out of shape that day.

When I got home that evening, I immediately browsed the pictures that documented the trip. Although I question their ability to express what it’s like to see Arkansas during autumn, they still serve as a way for me to relive how it felt, if only for a moment.