Yes, that's what I've bee nsuspecting. I just need to make sure it's not the head gasket. And then I'll need to buy a new head gasket either way for when I do the swap. I'm comtemplating new head bolts too because this will be the second time I take it off and possibly the third time it's been taken off due to some evidence I found along the way ,and I've heard of high torque bolts like these snapping after a few uses. Better safe than sorry.

Can you link me to the page where you found that? It's not commnig up in their database when I search that number.

The decompression valve part number is:
SKU: 28291-MG2-000
VALVE, DECOMPRESSION (Honda Motorcycle Code 1445568)
(tag number 18 in the picture)
This is the same picture your Honda dealer should be able to access.

Thanks, all ordered up today. Got the valve, head gasket, auto decompression shaft seal, new cam chain tensioner spring, and I got it through local Combustion Cycles, everyone in the area's favorite shop, good, honest, personable mechanics/owner. He had a better parts fische, or perhaps he was looking on the right page of his. I unloaded my frame and some parts on him and got a discount. Parts should be here next week and I'm going to reluctantly take the engine out once I hear that they're in.

Unfortunatly it looks like my 83 frame does not have that tab. I am going to fabricate an extention bracket and secure one side of the rack to the tab that is meant for the helmet holder. Since I don't forsee myself using the rack for more than 30lbs of gear I believe stabilization on just one side should be sufficent. Ill post up some pictures when I am done.

It's a steel frame, I'd just have a welder tack on a tab, couldn't be more than 5 minutes to weld on a decent tab. With the load on the rack mostly pushing up on that tab it doesn't have to be super strong, if you pre-make the tab, prep the frame and bring it all ready to go to a welder it won't take more than a couple minutes for them to run a bead for you. Another option would be to make a strap that wraps the subframe tube and clamps in place. You could make that from a piece of cheap steel barstock from home depot.

If you can swing it get the rest of the cam chain tensioner assembly. The shaft, the tensioner and the oring. You will thank me later. The Honda tensioner is a poor design IMHO and does not hold up long before it starts chattering. I inspected mine during the rebuild but could see nothing wrong with it. After getting it together it would chatter on and off. It annoyed me enough i went back in and replaced the whole deal and it is TIGHT. No noise.

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If you can swing it get the rest of the cam chain tensioner assembly. The shaft, the tensioner and the oring. You will thank me later. The Honda tensioner is a poor design IMHO and does not hold up long before it starts chattering. I inspected mine during the rebuild but could see nothing wrong with it. After getting it together it would chatter on and off. It annoyed me enough i went back in and replaced the whole deal and it is TIGHT. No noise.

I didn't get any noise even though I bent my spring hastily putting the tensioner in. I had just put in a new cam chain, which was quite tight on it's own. I did order a cam chain tensioner spring, and although I didn't know the spring could be replaced within the tensioner, I'm sure I'll figure it out, and then patiently install the tensioner this time. I want it solid. I even got the other head seal that's not leaking, the one for the shaft that goes in and pivots the little valve I'm replacing.

p.s. on the other two parts of the tensioner you menntioned, the o-ring was replaced during rebuild the first time, and the shaft is within spec because I tested it on the tensioner, and the tensioner's 1-way clutch still grabbed insanely hard.

If your not getting any noise then you are fine. Mine tested fine in my hand but on the bike would make some really nasty noises especially when cold. If you listen to some of the youtube videos of the XL600 you can hear a couple of cases of bad tensioners. If I find one I will post it.

__________________
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Tequila is a weapon of mass destruction.

It's a steel frame, I'd just have a welder tack on a tab, couldn't be more than 5 minutes to weld on a decent tab. With the load on the rack mostly pushing up on that tab it doesn't have to be super strong, if you pre-make the tab, prep the frame and bring it all ready to go to a welder it won't take more than a couple minutes for them to run a bead for you. Another option would be to make a strap that wraps the subframe tube and clamps in place. You could make that from a piece of cheap steel barstock from home depot.

The chain is either WAAAY worn out, or it is too long to begin with. The little cylindrical bushings that ride between the teeth on the sprockets have noticeable jingle and maybe 1mm of play. Time for a new one?
Other than those things, I still have to take offf the stator cover again and get the rubber bushing siliconed in better to stop that leak, and now that I've got my 1/4" drive 8mm socket and swivel, and using that to snug the oil line bolts did not cure that leak, get the new o-rings for that. Just a few more bugs to work out until it's as close to perfect as I care to get. Then I'll be recovering the seat and getting turn signals and a rack.

The quick and easy way to see if a chain is worn is to:

- Grab the chain with your index finger and thumb at about 2 o'clock on the sprocket.
- Pull the chain away from the sprocket.
- If you can see 50% of the sprocket teeth then your chain is worn.

Thanks, all ordered up today. Got the valve, head gasket, auto decompression shaft seal, new cam chain tensioner spring, and I got it through local Combustion Cycles, everyone in the area's favorite shop, good, honest, personable mechanics/owner. He had a better parts fische, or perhaps he was looking on the right page of his. I unloaded my frame and some parts on him and got a discount. Parts should be here next week and I'm going to reluctantly take the engine out once I hear that they're in.

That cam chain tensioner spring was a pain in the you know where is install. I didn't have the special Honda tool and had to fight it for while till I figured out a solution. Hope all goes well and the upadtes go smoothly. I am ordering a new X ring chain ans sprockets today and as soon as some of the snow and ice melts I can get mine out for a test ride and continue sorting it out if needed.

That cam chain tensioner spring was a pain in the you know where is install. I didn't have the special Honda tool and had to fight it for while till I figured out a solution. Hope all goes well and the upadtes go smoothly.

Yeah, the tensioner is a big pain, which is why I bent the spring last time. I got a new spring to put into the tensioner, so hopefully that part is not too hard. As for the tensioner once I getthe new spring in it, that should be no problem since I now have the wisdom to be patient with it.

Ok guys... My XL600r is all nice and cleaned up. Sure enought I can start it within one or two kicks when cold or hot. All in all it seems to be running fine.

The trick for my bike to start with ease was getting the valves adjusted which was a bit tedious due to my lack of experience getting the decompression valves adjusted properly so it would not interfere with the valve clearance. I finally figured it out and I was able to quiet down my engine in the process.

Now I just want some advice because there is still a bit of noise from the top end. Nothing scary, no hard or loud noise but a little tick and squeel. Performance is spot on, and Im thinking for a 25 year old engine it sounds pretty good. I was hoping you experts could listen in on my video to let me know.

My 83 XL600r:

If that video doesnt help, my bike sounds near identical to this one:

I just want to make sure before I rack up the miles that the bike sounds healthy. What do you guys think?