Description

A full on, classic-quality, right angling off fingers to thin fingers dihedral past a ledge. Lieback you way up this low angle beauty then make some face moves left to the anchor after clipping the bolt on the face. Don't go too high at the bolt or youhave to reverse it and start the traverse all over again. The book calls this pitch 10b.

Worth noting that more bolts continue above the anchor. I think this continues into Never Never Land (7p 12a).

Location

Left of Seasoned in the Sun, where the main path curves left and away from the wall into the wood, stay on a faint trail right at the base of the wall and keep going uphill. You will know when you see it. Splitter off fingers on a low angle slab looking right at you. All in all just a few hunder meters uphill from Seasoned.

Protection

Doubles of green alien (blue tcu) to .75 camalot. Single #1 and #2 camalot. You could get by with just one green alien too. Like lots of Squamish, you could use 3 or 4 in the off fingers size. I usually roll with doubles of both grey and red alien. Bolt at the top. Two bolt anchor.

It's getting pretty overgrown up here, or was a few months ago. It was so unpleasant that we didn't end up even climbing this rig, the mud caked on my shoes by the time I started laybacking was prohibitive. Leave your machete, bring a shovel.

On an unrelated note, last year a piece of rock pulled off near the crux. Apparently hasn't affected the difficulty much, but makes clipping the bolt harder. squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...