Not mounting the canopy is obviously a money saving item, also everyone has their preference, from screws to quick latches (to tape). The factory does a good job in the belly pan alignment so I wouldn't have minded them doing the canopy as well, however they attached it

The rudder tray I agree should be in place. No big deal if we were installng it in the main canopy area but it is behind the canopy. See post #24 in this thread. The tray is oversized and difficult to install. I almost split the fuse with a trial fit. This should be installed just like the other internal fuse parts during construction. Much easier to install in one hlaf before putting the fuse halves together.

Please weigh your fuse parts and see if they differ much from mine (Beginning of this thread). The weight is fine for glow but just marginal for electric. I build light and chose many lighter items for the build and still came in a few grams over. The wings are actually where weight could be saved with standard foam/balsa construction. I like the hard surface of the composite wings however.

Here is the weight break down.
I have a ACCU Tec 1200 scale and a complete set of gram weights from 1 gram to 1000 gram and completed a calibration prior to doing the weighing so I feel pretty confident these are accurate to .05 gram.

The Rudder servo former is a real pain not being installed because it is no-where near the correct size? I will make a balsa template of the original and then cut and sand until I get the proper fit then use it as a template to cut the actual former to size. The canopy is very lite and fits well but I am concerned about "cracking" from vibration so I plan on using two nylon screws forward, two compression "L" shaped tabs center, and 2 pins at the rear. Then I will use a a very thin layer of silicone on the canopy frame. This will isolate canopy from vibration and keep it from moving around.

here is the system I did for Jon Martin in the build manual
it`s a copy of the Nishioka quick release system from wood and a steel wire

Cowling with Quick disconnect,, from the yet to be published manual LOL,

You can use your own method of installing the cowling for the glow
version. The rear pins are already installed at the factory, with a
front screw in place. However, the front screw will interfere with
the glow engine, so it will have to be removed and another hold down
method used.
In this example, I will show you how to make a wood version of the
Japanese cowling quick disconnect. The front screw is installed for
the electric version but, again, this will interfere with the engine
on a YS. So, it will have to be removed and the flashing ground away.

Using the supplied instructional photoâ€™s, build a couple of pin
latches for the disconnect system. Use a spring steel wire and bend
it to the necessary shape. Relieve the fuse sides near the firewall
to allow the latches to be installed square to the firewall, and
then screw the setup to the firewall. Using 5mm aircraft ply, cut
out some triangle stand offs for the pins holders. Using 2.5mm or
6-32 screws, file the heads round so they can move the spring wire
as it is inserted in the latch. Remember to drill the holes in the
latch equal to the size of the insert screws.
Cut spacers to insert under the standoffs, keeping them vertical to
the cowling on the fuse, and test fit the standoffs to make sure
they touch the cowling sides (you may have to adjust the wood
cowling alignment inserts installed at the factory in the middle of
the cowling, for enough slack to be easily installed) After test
fitting, use a thixotropic epoxy glue mix and glue the standoffs to
the cowling. You will have to cut out cooling exit holes in the rear
of the cowling, see the supplied photos.

here is how you can mount the rudder tray
It`s tricky But the best way is to cut 1/8 inch off of each side and test fit ,,sand a little ECT.

from the Manual,

I recommend, for best results, using Futabaâ„˘ BLS Brushless servos,
or an equivalent. For elevator halves, use the BLS 651,or the BLS 351`s for ailerons
use the BLS 551. On rudder, use a 200-inch ounce servo for the most consistent results.
For clevises on the glow models, I recommend the Tetraâ„˘, Central
Hobbiesâ„˘ or MK â„˘ BB clevises where possible, for all surfaces and
Central Hobbiesâ„˘ Carbon/Titanium push rod systems. It is important
to have as little linkage slack or looseness as possible, for the
best trimming, flying and durable results. Remember, quality servos
produce quality results!

RUDDER TRAY<
#1 Test fit the tray, in the rear edge of the canopy opening. It
will need to be cut down slightly to fit the fuse properly (warning
do not force fit; it can ruin the outer finish and break the fragile
sides) Open the slotted area in the former slightly and trim the
tray, to allow for some adjusting. There may be some modification
required.
#2 When the tray has a good fit, install it parallel to the angle
that the cables will run down the fuse, and exit in the rear. Then,
using a pencil, draw a light line on the fuse to mark where the tray
will rest.
#3 Next, remove the tray and add balsa strips 3mm below the line marked, and glue them in with CA or quick hardening epoxy.
#4 Reinstall the tray and glue it in on the rails, using CA or half
hour epoxy.

#1 Cut out a 82mm diameter disk 4 to 4.5 mm thick to make a spacer
for hanging the engine from the nose ring. Hold the fuselage vertical.
Insert the engine in the fuse, and install the spacer disk /spinner
on the engine and hang it centered on the nose of the airframe.
#2 From the rear, insert the motor mount up to the motor and screw
it to the motor

#3 Slide the firewall to the motor mount, making sure the alignment
of the engine is still true. Realign if required and then tack glue
the firewall to the fuse with cyanoacrylate glue (C/A), so it can be
handled a little without becoming dislodged easily.

#4 VERY IMPORTANT, turn the engine off centered, looking at the
nose, 6mm to the left and tack glue the motor mount to the firewall.
This will give a little extra room for engine backfires

#5 Remove the motor, but leave the motor mount tack glued to the
firewall.

#6 Mix some 2-hour epoxy, along with carbon/graphite powder for a
thickening agent. Dam the front side of the motor mount with tape so
the epoxy wonâ€™t seep through. Turn the fuse on its nose and, using
an applicator or a brush, apply the glue to the firewall.
When the firewall glue is completely hardened, drill the holes in
the motor mount through the firewall and install the blind nuts.
Relieve the flashing on the engine compartment so the motor cannot
touch or rub. See the photos.
Drill the relief hole for the needle valve and fuel elbowâ€™s to
complete the installation.
After the motor is installed, install the exhaust system. Add a
piece of 2mm plywood across the inside of the fuse where the
mounting for the pipe disconnects. Screw in for rigidity and noise
reduction.

#1 Install the supplied hooks a little beyond the middle of the
canopy facing forward, using a thixotropic epoxy mix.
#2 After this is hardened, measure and cut receptacle holes for the
hooks in the fuse side canopy flashing. Fit the canopy, adjust, and
glue the phenolic U receptacle in place as a catch and alignment
socket. They will need to be trimmed to fit close to the fuse sides.
#3 Use a canopy latch like the BVMâ„˘ latch and glue it to the inside
of the canopy with some thixotropic epoxy. Also, glue a piece of
aircraft ply behind the canopy arch former as a hard point for the
latch pin. While it is hardening, letâ€™s work on the front.
#4 Cut out a couple of light ply rails and glue them to the
underside of the canopy flashing on the front of the fuse, and on
top of the canopy flashing on the canopy, using 15 minute epoxy.
Wait for it to harden. This will help with fuse noise and rigidity.
#5 After the rear latch is hardened, install the canopy. Find the
rear pin indent and drill the hole for the rear latch pin.
#6 Using a Dremelâ„˘ barrel grinder, drill a hole towards the front
of the canopy through the top skin. Then, use a 1/16 drill, after
aligning the canopy, and precisely drill a pilot hole through the
canopy and fuse flashing, going through the light ply rails.
#7 Now, remove the canopy and drill the pilot hole with a 1/8"
drill bit. Insert a piece of yellow Ny-rodÂ® and glue it in place
with C\A from the bottom side.
#8 Reinstall the canopy and, using a self-tapping screw, screw the
canopy down to the fuse for a final fit test.

These formers are installed for two reasons; fuselage rigidity, and
as a trouble free tank mount. Once the tank is installed, it cannot be removed; with out difficulty so, install them such that
the tank is centered on the wing tube. Depending on the size tank you use, they will need to be modified
slightly. It is best suited for the Tetraâ„˘ Crank Tank, 16-20 ounce.

You will need to get the tank off of the floor, so;
#1 Make a couple pieces of 2mm light ply bridges, to close the gap
on the formers and get the tank off the floor.
#2 Cut some medium fuel tubing length-ways as a cushion; wrap it
around the formers and test fit the tank, making sure it is tight
enough such that the tank does not easily move.
#3 At this point, you can decide if you want to leave the tank
formers high as is; to build a receiver tray on top or, cut the
formers such that the tray top goes under the wing tube. Do
whichever is more convenient to your radio set up; 2.4GHz or 72 MHz.
What ever you decide, over or under, glue the tray to the tube where
it intersects; it is an integral part of the structure of the center
fuse.
#4 After you are satisfied with the tank fit, install the tank
with the front former attached and in place, then slip the rear one
in place and adjust the fit. Glue it to the fuse using C\A or 15-
minute epoxy, making sure the formers fit precisely, or it can leave
a bulge in the skin on the undersurface.
#5 Trim and adjust the rear phenolic U former in the rear, under
the rear wing pin, using 15 min epoxy, with micro balloons or carbon
powder

Yes they are painted in the mold so a seam is there. I t would take a lot of man hour and skill to fill and repaint the seam. I never liked it either but I just can't see it when the palne is flying If I wanted to paint my own scheme and bought a basic white version I would fill the seam then.
Stuart

Yes this airplane is totaly painted in the mold thats why you see the seams

The old school way of making a kit is to build a plug ,,get it as perfect as you can them cast molds of of that,
The new way is to CNC the plugs then make molds ,,,there are some who cnc the molds But thats very expensive, There are many ways to do it but in modeling
the best way is usually centered around $

I was Blessed to Have Mark Hunt and Mike Hester help on this project , Mark did the CAD work for the wings and Stabs and Mike and Melissa, cut some very nice foam for the project.

I`m very picky but ,, I`m getting lazy in my old age and the seam just don`t seem to bother me much these days LOL esspecially when I can cram one of these in the air in a week or two.
You can`t deny that the Scheme is Striking!! how they were able to produce that Scheme after I drew it amazed me ,,,they didn`t want to,,
But it was so beautiful it captivated them , and challenged them,,and now it`s the factory`s all time favorite scheme.

My new Web site will be up in a few weeks, I Hope ,, and I will have build pictures and how to`s on how I do things ,,,not alway conventional LOL
But I hope to share Ideas about Building ,,sharing new projects, and of coarse, Trimming
and may Be other Great modelers like Matt K. and Others who are Master in the Hobby.

Yes this airplane is totaly painted in the mold thats why you see the seams

The old school way of making a kit is to build a plug ,,get it as perfect as you can them cast molds of of that,
The new way is to CNC the plugs then make molds ,,,there are some who cnc the molds But thats very expensive, There are many ways to do it but in modeling
the best way is usually centered around $

I was Blessed to Have Mark Hunt and Mike Hester help on this project , Mark did the CAD work for the wings and Stabs and Mike and Melissa, cut some very nice foam for the project.

I`m very picky but ,, I`m getting lazy in my old age and the seam just don`t seem to bother me much these days LOL esspecially when I can cram one of these in the air in a week or two.
You can`t deny that the Scheme is Striking!! how they were able to produce that Scheme after I drew it amazed me ,,,they didn`t want to,,
But it was so beautiful it captivated them , and challenged them,,and now it`s the factory`s all time favorite scheme.

My new Web site will be up in a few weeks, I Hope ,, and I will have build pictures and how to`s on how I do things ,,,not alway conventional LOL
But I hope to share Ideas about Building ,,sharing new projects, and of coarse, Trimming
and may Be other Great modelers like Matt K. and Others who are Master in the Hobby.

Bryan

Hi flyncajun,

I have a design in my mind for quite long time that i designed & want to make a fiberglass model for it, how should i go for it.. should i build a model out of balsa & foam high gloss & then take a negative of it? i want to make it fast in less time will make around 10 to 12 planes of the similar design & any suggestions on this would be great.

I would recommend that you build a wood proto first ,put the development in that one ,and shake down the issues on the proto
Then if it flys well , you can make another or decomission that one ,and make molds from it,I saw Mike Harrison do this before.

I don`t want to get into making molds in this thread,way to complicated , and there are way too many ways you can do it.
You can search the composite forum and get that info,

Is it Fun to have your own design,,yes is it a lot of work ,More than you know,, is it worth it ,,Well it all depends on the outcome.
It`s at least a 6 month process working till 2am every morning ,,,working day and night and weekends,, neglecting house,and wife,
spending about 2-3 times the money that what it would take to buy one, and if it flys bad ,,,the only thing you have is experiance.

If your willing to throw lots of money away ,,for a lesson that might or might not pan out in the end ,By all means don`t let no one stop you.
and follow your passion ,don`t be afraid to scew up!
and most of all ,don`t listen to the nay sayers, and get it done.

We need more modelers in the world trying out there skills ,and creating new Airplanes from a dream.
Everybody had to start somewhere your going to mess up, But let it motivate you and it will allow you to get creative and overcome your screw up`s
The guys who hide and overcome there screw ups always get done faster than the guys looking for perfection.
Bryan

I just recieved my latest AMA Mag and the middle part of my Trim Article is in there.
the remainder (the best part)will be run in two months ,,, Al just had too much for this month

Well that pic, is a picture of Glen Watson`s airplane I don`t think he plans of putting on a airplane
But if he did , he could just remove the tank
If you think that looks good you should watch him fly,