Contents

The climbing

There are several granite outcrops around the countryside. One of these is called 'Blinkkoppe' on the Gillemberg farm which is currently being developed with permission from the farmer. There is excellent potential for good multi-pitch sport routes on this, and possibly other of the granite outcrops. The climbing is good with mainly edges on long faces, usually slightly on angle. Some of these faces reach 150m in height. The area is very hot so it is advisable to keep the climbing to between 8 am to 11 am, go back to the farmhouse for lunch or climb on south facing climbs and climb again from 2 until late. Avoid the main dome between 11am and 2pm except during winter. NB make sure you get a car guard from Jaap, as there has been some petty theft in the past.

Season

Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

Rock

Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

Gear

Sport Rack: Up to 18 quickdraws & Rope (50m or longer). Some of the climbs have 40m or longer pitches so escape with one rope could be difficult.

Getting there

Take the N1 to Pretoria to Mokopane (the town used to be called Potgietersrus). Drive straight into Mokopane, a half way through the town you will see two garages on each side of the road, turn left directly at these into Nelson Mandela Drive. Drive for about 36km past the concrete bus stop to Jaap’s farm house on the right just after a small shop/stall. Go in, unpack, put the fresh stuff in the fridge, and a car guard. To get to the climbing, drive back about 5 km to where there is a gate in the electric fence surrounding the property (on the south side of the road).On the way to the main dome (where the road ends), you will pass the Sarcophagus area on your right hand side. And the main dome is further on. There is some bouldering near the back and to the left of the Sarcophagus.

Food and accommodation

Please camp in the area provided by the farmer Jaap Möller, which is on the lawn outside the Lapa. The camping has ablutions etc. Camping MUST be arranged beforehand. You can contact the farmer, Jaap, on 072 425 0349 for booking and arranging of camping. There is a fridge and a stove, but only one plate works. Sleeping in the Lapa is an option. Shower and flush toilet available. Women can use the cleaner inside toilet if they ask Jaap nicely.

Route Description

Route Guide for Wellingtons Dome

By Neil Margetts

The Goat Face

This is the shorter wall to the left (east) of the dome. It has a few 2-3 pitch routes on it. All route numbers correspond to the route numbers on the accompanying map.

1. Where’s Wally ** 17 (12D)

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Pitch 1 25m 14 Climb up pillar to the right of the bushy recess.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Continue up to chains.

Pitch 3 30m 16 Climb up and then right to avoid the bulge, continue to the top.

First ascent: Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, September 2001

2. The Big Red Button *** 21 (15D)

Starts just left of INTRUSION, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up to chains under bulge.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Climb over bulge, strenuous, and continue to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, September 2001

3. Intrusion *** 20 (12D)

This climb starts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up the slab to steeper section below anchors.

Pitch 2 30m 20 This pitch climbs the wide open book on vertical rock to the top.

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down on the far left, but this is a long way around. Note: some of the chains at the top have been damaged, lower ones have been placed.

The Peanut Gallery

This is the large rock outcrop just to the right of the main dome. To ascend, climb up Monkey Gulley just to the left of the main dome. This has two short (3m) scramble sections of grade 14. Then continue around left over some large blocks to the top. From the top one is rewarded with excellent views of the climbers on the main dome with excellent photographic opportunities especially in the early morning.

First ascent: Mr. B A Boon and large family, +/- 1 346 000 BC

Main Dome

The climbs on the Main Dome start half way up Monkey Gulley opposite the Peanut Gallery and are listed from left to right. The face reaches about 150m in height at places.

3a. Finding your Inner Lizard 14 (12D)

Start near the top of the gully traversing right under a flake. Climb up the right of the flake to the top.

4. Sexy Lady ** 16 (15D)

Start in the gulley just before the first scramble move (50m up from the base).

Pitch 1 25m 16 After climbing the first thin moves (crux) continue up to chains.

Pitch 2 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 3 20m 15 Continue up slab to the chains

Pitch 4 20m 13 Continue up over large block and up to the chains

Pitch 5 20m 14 Continue up slab to the top

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 28 June 2003

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

5. Older Slower Wiser *** 17 (16D)

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Enjoy the exposure on an easier climb with some interesting slab technique.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb the ramp that tends left from the start then climb the face to the ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the face then the slab to the chains on a small ledge. Not as easy as it looks.

Pitch 3 25m 16 Good face climbing up to the next ledge and chains.

Pitch 4 20m 15 Continue up off the stance to the next ledge and chains. Nice slab pitch.

Pitch 5 20m 13 Climb up then diagonally left to the top of the dome and chains.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2000

Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

6. Where Falcons Fear *** 21 (12D)

This route starts 25m to the left of WHERE EAGLES DARE and joins that route at the last pitch.

Pitch 1 30m 20 Climb up slabs until forced right and up to a large flake with chains above.

Pitch 2 30m 21 Continue up for a few meters and then move up left along a rough slab (crux), continue to the chains.

Pitch 3 30m 19 Climb more or less up the nose above to the chains at the top of pitch 4 of WED.

Pitch 4 40m 17 Climb up pitches 5 and 6 of WED to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, James Pitman, 5 June 2004

7. Where Eagles Dare **** 19 (16D)

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Move up and right above the pocket (crux), then continue up jugs to the chains.

Pitch 2 20m 18 Climb up the thin crack line to the chains.

Pitch 3 20m 17 Climb up and left via some ledges and balance moves to a small but comfortable ledge with chains.

Pitch 4 25m 19 Climb up over a thin bulge (crux 1), then up and left into a recess for a rest. From there move right and up until forced to move left again (crux 2) for 4m to the chains.

Pitch 5 20m 17 From the ledge climb up and 2m right, then move up a short blank section (crux), after which the grade eases, continue up to the chains.

Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

9. Wild Child **** 23 (15D) (*NB: A key hold was pulled off the crux of Pitch 3, likely increasing the difficulty by a grade or two)

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND.

Pitch 1 32m 18 Climb up over bulge on thin holds until the grade eases. Continue via a small crack to the chains.

Pitch 2 35m 21 Continue up easy ground until the angle gets steeper. Climb up the nose and right to the chains.

Pitch 3 35m 23 Move up the corner above and reach right to clip the first two bolts. Then traverse and move up diagonally right (crux) until the grade eases. Continue up past an under-cling rail to a point where you can move 4m left to the chains.

Pitch 4 40m 23 Climb up to join BDND and climb up the top 2 pitches of BDND to the top.

First ascent: Heike Schmitt, Neil Margetts, 5 June 2005

Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND

10. Big Dreamers Never Die *** 23 (15D)

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Pitch 1 25m 18 Climb up then leftwards to a tree growing out of the rock and up to a large flake. Climb up to a small ledge and chains.

Pitch 2 25m 17 Traverse left off the stance and follow a crack and then a face to a large ledge above.

Pitch 3 10m 14 Climb up through the scoop to a very large ledge with a tree.

Pitch 4 20m 18 Climb up the ramp on the left of the ledge then up the face to the base to a chimney with a tree. Chimney up and then traverse right to a small ledge with chains.

Pitch 5 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains.

Pitch 6 20m 23 Climb up the ramp on the left until you must continue up on steep rock into a shallow recess. Traverse right (crux) and up into a shallow cubbyhole with chains.

Pitch 7 15m 13 Climb up first to the right and then up to the top.
Variation for pitch 4: Ascend right hand side of the big ledge. (17)
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, Neil Margetts, Dave Chesney, H. Pringle, October 2000

11. Dream Queen **** 21 (16D)

Start as for BIG DREAMERS NEVER DIE (BDND)

Pitch 1 43m 19 Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

Pitch 2 25m 18 Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

Pitch 3 25m 21 Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

Pitch 4 30m 19 Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

To facilitate the easy descent of the main wall and to avoid congestion on the routes, a rap point is available at the back of the dome on the left hand side. This is the side closest to Monkey Gulley. A short rap, 22m, will take you to a path where you can descend down monkey gulley on the right, to the base of the dome. This gulley has two short scramble sections of 3m each at approximately grade 14. Another alternative is to rap down Sexy Lady on two 50m raps or four 25m raps, this lands you neatly just downhill of the scrambles in Monkey Gulley.

Sarcophagus

If one were to look at the skyline of the Wellington dome complex from the main road about 5km before Jaapies farm, you will see that it resembles a Sarcophagus. What we currently know as the Sarcophagus is in fact the foot of this Sarcophagus. Thus this buttress became known as “The Foot of the Sarcophagus”.
This later became known just as the Sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus South

These climbs are on the road side of the Sarcophagus, from left to right.

17. Archimedes Screw ** 18 (8D)

This is the left most route and starts to the right of a gully/crack system. Climb up the slab rightwards to the chains.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

18. Dancing With Anubis ** 17 (8D)

Start just to the right of AS and climb up leftwards to share chains with AS.

18a. Bite of Thoth 20/21 *** (10D)

Start just to the left of EOO and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts June 2009

19. Eye of Osyris *** 20 (10D)

This route goes up the pillar to the right of DWA.

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost, 29 Jun 2003

19a. Naughty Nefertiti *** 18/19 (11D?)

Start this route by stepping right off the block 4m right of EOO. Follow the crack/water groove to a thin exit.

First Ascent: Edwin McLenaghan, Neil Margetts, 12 July 2009

Sarcophagus North

These climbs are on the opposite side of the Sarcophagus facing the main tar road, from left to right.

20. Rhamses' Ramrod ** 16 (10D)

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree.

Pitch 1 25m 16 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up to the top.

First Ascent: Neil Margetts, Darryl Margetts, 2001

21. Tutankhamun's Touche *** 18 (10D)

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of RR.

Pitch 1 25m 17 Climb/layback up the crack until the grade eases. Continue up the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 18 Climb up and through the bulge above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

22. Cleopatra's Crack *** 19 (10D)

Climb up the crack system just to the right of TT starting up the pillar on the left.

Pitch 1 25m 19 Climb up pillar and then the crack over a steep section (crux). Continue up to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

23. Pharoah's Phallus *** 20 (10D)

This climb goes up the pillar with brown water marks on it, 15m to the right of CC

Pitch 1 25m 20 Climb up the face on small crimps negotiating a balance move crux at 18m.

Pitch 2 15m 16 Climb up the slab above to the top.

First ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 2001

Sarcophagus West

These climbs are on the western side of the Sarcophagus above Leopard Rock, from left to right.

24. Land of the Long Mambas * 15 (8D)

Start the climb up a ramp below a pillar with a crack through it.

Pitch 1 20m 13 Climb up the slab and through the steeper section to the chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb up the break above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

25. A Scarab Beetle Ate my Brains * 15 (8D)

This climb goes up the easy angled nose with a crack through the pillar above.

Pitch 1 15m 11 Climb up the easy pilar to a ledge with chains.

Pitch 2 15m 15 Climb the crack above to the top.

First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts, 25 June 2002

Descending the Sarcophagus

To descend one must either abseil down the climbs or scramble down the south face by the slabs on the left.

References

A comprehensive Route Guide is hosted on the SACIN Website www.saclimb.co.za