Sugar Loaf is
one of the two must-see destinations in Rio. Do you
know that it is also a must for climbers and probably
the most popular rock-climbing destination in Rio with
its more than 50 climbing routes on all four faces?

The routes are of a great variety, from
big wall to chimneys, face climbing to dihedrals, aid
to crimpers and friction. Multi pitch ascent routes
range from 4 to 11 pitches long, averaging five pitches,
and starting at 5.6 (US), 4b (French) grading.

Here is a descriptive sample of routes
available to experience in the Sugar Loaf:

East face - easy slab routes
ranging from 2 - 10 pitches long.West face – face
climbing routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.11. One option is
the super classic "Italianos" (5.9),
an exposed and spectacular 5 pitch climb that leads to
the summit.South face - 5.10 climbs
as well as one 5.7 and one 5.9+ chimneys that are more
adventure-style climbs. North face - the face of
hard routes. The easiest one is a 5.11a and it goes up
to 5.13s. One can also climb a big wall on this face (A3).The “Totem” (a
pilar on the South face) is another place with several
routes ranging from 5.11-5.13. Aid Routes - The “tetos”
(roofs) on the South Face are the school crag for aid
climbing with routes ranging from A2-A3+.

From the wealth of routes available, check
out below the ones we recommend:

ITALIANOS

The classic route at the
Sugar Loaf, the Italianos is a 5.9,
multi-pitch face climbing with approximately
over 250 meters of climbing vertical ascent
to the summit.

We take the cable car to Urca
Mountain on our return.

CORINGA

Recommended route
for beginner climbers with some experience but
who are not comfortable in more technical demanding
climbs such as the Italianos. A 5.7
route, Coringa is a multi-pitch route that requires
some hiking after the end of the climb to summit
the Sugar Loaf.