Im installing a TORK 1103.. Im hooking this timer up to 4 outlets.. I have a black, a white, a red and a copper wire.. my problem is I have to turn the timer on and off manually.. The clock is not working.. help!!!

Thank you for your quick response... How would i wire it without the red wires being that they are connected to the outlets.. its a split 20 20 breaker... and i need to hook up the 4 outlets.. so getting rid of the red wires how would that work?? Thanks againThank you for your quick response... How would i wire it without the red wires being that they are connected to the outlets.. its a split 20 20 breaker... and i need to hook up the 4 outlets.. so getting rid of the red wires how would that work?? Thanks again

Thank you for your quick response.. Im now wondering how to wire it without the red wires.. as the red wires are connected to the outlet.. Im on a split 20 20 breaker.. Thanks againThank you for your quick response.. Im now wondering how to wire it without the red wires.. as the red wires are connected to the outlet.. Im on a split 20 20 breaker.. Thanks again

Thank you for your quick response... How would i wire it without the red wires being that they are connected to the outlets.. its a split 20 20 breaker... and i need to hook up the 4 outlets.. so getting rid of the red wires how would that work?? Thanks again

Thank you for your quick response... How would i wire it without the red wires being that they are connected to the outlets.. its a split 20 20 breaker... and i need to hook up the 4 outlets.. so getting rid of the red wires how would that work?? Thanks again

Your power feed hot should connect to the black, the neutral to the white and the load should tie to the red. The neutral of the load will also connect to the white. The bare copper is the safety grounDING conductor and should tie to the grounds within you box and also to the grounding (green screw of the receptacles). I would NOT use this timer if you do NOT have grounds in the box or metal conduit to the boxes.

Please note you CANNOT feed this with a split breaker because you CANNOT share a neutral with a split breaker. You will need to feed this from a double breaker, not a split breaker.

The two line inputs MUST be from opposite sides of the line for the 1103. The motor will not run unless they are.Here is a site with the diagram you need:
http://www.weisd.com/store2/17wire.pdf
Use the schematic in the upper right corner.
Please note you CANNOT feed this with a split breaker because you CANNOT share a neutral with a split breaker. You will need to feed this from a double breaker, not a split breaker.
The two line inputs MUST be from opposite sides of the line for the 1103. The motor will not run unless they are.

Hello Lee. The black wire is hot 110 volts. the red is hot 110 volts. the white is neutral and the bare copper is ground. IF you are only hooking up 4 outlets, only use the one hot wire [the black] do not use the red. Joe

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Hook all the white wires together.
Hook all the greens or bare copper wires together.
Hook your hot black to the timer black.
Hook your black wire that goes to your light to the red switch wire.
then try the switch if the light doesn't work switch the red and black switch wires around black to light red to black power.

Here's what to do:1) Old switch has two screws (excluding green ground screw)One screw on old switch has 2 black wires >> these are hot wires > timer black wire connects to these hot wires. This will power the timer. 2) The other switch wire connects to timer red wire. This will send timer signal to lights.

3) Timer white wire is for the timer clock.Timer white wire connects to other white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut >>> these are neutral wires, and now timer clock will operate 4) For EZ connection to other white wires, strip back another inch on timer white wire so stranded wire can wrap like a candy cane around solid copper wires. Then twist wire nut on very tight.

5) When wiring is complete, push door on timer for manual override. Lights should turn ON-OFF. If lights do not turn on, reverse timer red and timer black wires. Make sure outdoor bulbs are working.

You posted under the ST01C timer.ST01C has black, red and blue wires, and has a battery to run the clock.

You have black, white, red and green.So your timer has an electronic clock and no battery.

Let's go through the wires one at a time.You can add a comment and I will help further if needed.

Old switch has 2 black wires.One of these wire is black-HotThe other wire is black-to-Load (load is your light, fan, motor)

Black-Hot connects to timer-black wireBlack-to-Load connects to timer-red wireNOW ... if these wires are reversed, the timer will not operate, so simply reverse the wires.

There are two wires to go:Timer-green wire goes to bare copper wire.Timer-white wire is the wire that runs the clock inside the timer. This is just like plugging in your alarm clock so the clock runs.

The timer-white wire connects to the other white wires located inside the box.These white wires are usually twisted together and covered with a wire nut.So untwist the wire nut and add the timer-white wire to these wires.What if your box does not have these other white wires?Then in that case, connect the timer-white wire to the bare copper and the clock will run.

The Tork 1103 has a 120V clock motor that consumes 3 Watts and costs $3.50 per year to operate.1) You have to have a white Neutral wire from breaker box connected to Unmarked terminal no matter if you are controlling 120V or 240V Load2) You have to have a black Hot wire from breaker connected to terminal L no matter what load

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltageDark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and offThere is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breakerWhite >>> this is Neutral wireBare ground

Test wires:Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both HotTest Hots to white to confirm this is NeutralSolution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctlyProb 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correctHowever, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)Solution Prob 1:1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L 3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.Let me review features on timer which might help:1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 12) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

The L terminal would be for your "hot" incoming black wire. The X terminal would be for your load outgoing black wire. Connect both white neutral wires to the blank terminal (notice this feeds the timer motor. The other two terminals (1&2) are not necessary if it is a 110V single circuit.

Electricians don't guess, they test.Turn power off and separate wires for testing.Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.Do not touch anything metal.Turn power ON.Test each wire to bare ground wire.For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.Each of these wires is Hot wire. These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

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