Set in a beautiful tropical garden, a handful of charming traditional-style bungalows overlook the rice paddies on the outskirts of Banyuwangi not far from Karangasem Station. The rooms are terrific, but it’s the excellent communal areas and welcoming owners who speak good English that really make this place special.

Rooms are smart and comfortable. Photo: Sally Arnold

From the road, Didu’s Homestay looks like an ordinary suburban house and the only thing to indicate anything to the contrary is a small sign on the gate which reads DjokoMaya Home, the names of the hosts, and beyond through the foliage you’ll find the bungalows. Note that Djoko and Maya keep a number of yappy dogs, housed in a separately fenced area when we visited.

On offer are a mix of fan-cooled wood and bamboo double and twin bungalows ranging in size from compact to spacious along with three glass-fronted wooden air-con-cooled bungalows including a double-storey family room that can sleep up to five, albeit not suitable for small kids or anyone unable to climb the steep narrow stairs to the second level.

Do we really have to go climb a volcano? Photo: Sally Arnold

The more basic bungalows sit in a cluster on one side of the open-air communal lounge, and although they are somewhat closely spaced, the surrounding vegetation offers a little privacy, however the air-con bungalows we thought were a little tightly packed, so for more privacy you may wish to keep the curtains drawn.

Interiors are simple but super clean and comfortable with some charming personal touches. Mosquito-netted beds provide quality spring mattresses and, although they were all unmade when we dropped by just after check-out, crisp white linens were ready to be made up. Bedside tables, lamps and mirrors are standard and larger rooms add additional furniture. Walls are rather thin and you’ll hear the frogs croaking in the ricefields, ducks and geese in the garden and call to prayer from the mosque, all rather delightful and rural we say, but if that’s not for you, pack earplugs.

Lush setting. Photo: Sally Arnold

Clean ensuite bathrooms are semi-outdoor style in the fan-cooled bungalows, and more enclosed in the air-con ones, all with western-style toilets and hot-water showers along with ample hooks and space for your toiletries.

Most bungalows offer private furnished terraces, or you can enjoy the relaxing lounge pavilion or open dining space—the heart of the homestay. Here you have a choice of a netted fourposter daybed, hammocks, hanging chairs or benches where you could read one of the many books from the library, stretch out with a downward dog, get a massage for 50,000 rupiah per hour or enjoy a cold soft drink or beer from the fridge or simply do nothing.

Breakfast is included in the rate, usually banana pancakes and fresh fruit and the open kitchen is available to make tea or coffee anytime or if you’d like to cook you own meals (and do your own washing up!), also a bunch of delivery menus from nearby warungs are at hand if you’d like to eat in the pleasant garden rather than venture out.

A rambling enclosure. Photo: Sally Arnold

The homestay is set some 650 metres down a track from Karangasem station, but if you have heavy bags they’ll pick you up for free or from elsewhere for a small fee. Your hosts can arrange motorbike rental, Ijen trips or excursions and transport to just about anywhere. While a little far from the centre of town, here has everything you need, and with its proximity to the train station, onward travel is easy.

Didu’s Homestay is rightly popular, so it is wise to book ahead, but if they are full try Paddy Hills Homestay, a little less convenient to reach, but just as delightful. If your budget is less flash, a bunch of small basic family-run homestays are in in front of Karangasem station including Sri Tanjung (formerly Koko Homestay).

Alternatively if your budget is open ended or you’ve just received a windfall from your great aunt’s estate, and you’d prefer your traditional bungalow came with a sea view, hotfoot it to Villa So Long.