PlanetJune Craft Blog

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Invisible Decrease

Link easily to this tutorial in your patterns: www.planetjune.com/invdec

If you’ve been making amigurumi, you may be lamenting the gap or bump that forms when you decrease. The standard methods of decreasing are to sc2tog, which can leave a bit of a bump and a small gap, or to skip a stitch, which leaves an obvious gap. There has to be a better way… and there is! The invisible decrease really is as good as its name claims – it’s almost impossible to see, even if you know what you’re looking for. (See my blog post for a comparison of these three methods.)

The invisible decrease method will probably take a few attempts to master, but, just like the magic ring, it’s one of those techniques that’s so good, you’ll wonder how you ever crocheted without it!

How do I make an Invisible Decrease?

Choose your preferred learning method! I have video and step-by-step photo tutorials, all for right- and left-handers. Continue to:

Invisible Decrease for right-handers

Before we begin:

Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). DO NOT YARN OVER:

Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook):Swing hook down……then up through the front loop of the next stitch

Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook):

Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Invisible decrease completed:

Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…

Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…

Invisible Decrease for left-handers

Before we begin:

Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch (2 loops on hook). DO NOT YARN OVER:

Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch. To do this, you’ll need to swing the hook down first so you can insert the hook under the front loop. (3 loops on hook):Swing hook down……then up through the front loop of the next stitch

Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (2 loops on hook):

Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Invisible decrease completed:

Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease…

Good, huh? Give it a go with your next ami – I promise you won’t regret it…

Do you find my tutorials helpful? If so, please consider making a contribution towards my time so I can continue to create clear and concise tutorials for you:

Patsysaid

Thanks so much for generously sharing how tos and tips on techniques you’ve devised! So far the one I use most is this invisible decrease and the other I’ve made lots of use of is the perfect stripes no cut method. I’ve used the latter most in regular crochet projects like hats because I do more of that kind of crochet than amigurumi. I have also made use of your video about crocheting tubes for amigurumi in creating tusks for a Razorback hood I made a fan. Thank you, June!

Laura Paulsaid

Thank you for the great tips. You are an angel. I’m left handed and have learned to read patterns backwards but always have trouble with the pictures and video instructions. Thanks again for the lefty version. They are great tips. Love the invdec.

Dorothy Stuhrsaid

Thanks so much June. I was doing it wrong, I would yarn over to soon and then again! I am making a doll and the decreases looked awful. So I went back to your tutorial and it’s perfect. Thanks, you are an valuable asset to the crochet community.

Lilysaid

Oh My Gosh! This is fantastic! I’ve been crocheting for several years and always cried a little inside when I had large gaps in my decreases while making amigurumi! I will do it this way from now on! Thank you!

Kerrysaid

Thanks so much for this. As I’ve done the standard decrease before it’s often been in my head to wonder if exactly what this tutorial shows would work … and it does. So maybe I should listen to my inner voice more often – which is what you obviously did.

I love your tutorials which are so easy to follow – and so very helpful. Thanks again.

Daniellesaid

Hi June! I’ve always found your website so helpful. But I’m currently struggling to find an answer to this reacurring problem I have. I’m making an animal head, the pattern calls for one row of 4sc, Dec., next row 3sc, Dec., next 2sc, Dec., next 1, dec, then dec around. Ive used the invisible decrease. But when I close up the hole, it pulls all the stitches wide open.

Do you think the decrease in the pattern is just too fast? Is this a tension issue? I reached out to the person who wrote it but all they said was they never had a problem with the decrease. So I don’t know how to fix it!!!

Without seeing the pattern, I can’t tell if it’s a pattern issue or an issue with your hook/yarn combination or stitching. I’d suggest that you try following one of my PlanetJune amigurumi patterns (if you don’t want to buy one, you can just pick something simple from my free patterns – an apple or pear would be a good test) and see if you find you have the same problem with your decreases:

If you don’t have the same problem with a PlanetJune pattern, then the pattern you were using must be the cuplrit!

If you’re still seeing the same problem when using my pattern, and you’re definitely forming the invdec stitch correctly, you may be using too large a hook for the yarn you’re using (it’s important to crochet amigurumi with a smaller hook than usual, to keep your stitches tight and avoid holes).

Elainesaid

Thank you for providing instructions for left handers too!! It has been difficult for me to find any instructions for left handers. Everything I make comes out backwards because what is the right side for right handers is the wrong side for left handers. I try to refigure everything so that it comes out right, but am not always successful.

ATsaid

I have a question about the invdec. I get how it works, you have to use the front loop when decreasing. However, is this before or after turning the amigurumi the ‘right’ way? Do I have to use the back loop if I decrease before turning?

If you watch my ‘Which is the Right Side?‘ video, you’ll notice that the front sides of the stitches always face you while you’re crocheting, whether you’ve flipped your piece inside out yet, or not. So you should always invdec using the front loops (i.e. the loops closest to you while you crochet), as the unworked back loops will all end up hidden on the inside once the piece is right side out.

If that doesn’t seem to make sense, just try making a couple of decreases and then flipping your piece inside out and back again, and you’ll see how it works in practice 🙂

Sarah Lewissaid

Greetings from Portsmouth, England. Excellent tutorials. I wanted to thank you not only for being so generous with your skill and time but for including us left handers. Off to try an amigurumi Unicorn.

Dianne Usaid

June, your way of making amigurumi is amazing and outstanding! I only wish I had found you much sooner. I’ve made several items over the past few years, but now – with your methods to help me improve – they look awful to me. Your tips and tricks make the world of difference in the quality of my pieces and I’m forever grateful and thankful for your expertise! Bless you and thanks again.

Debbiesaid

I’ve never made anything amigurumi. The Crochet ball that you showed us how to make will be my first. I am so excited. I will make so for my cat. i am also going to try and make ninja turtles in memory of our son who passed away. He collected the old Ninja Turtles. I still have them.

Hi! I love your tutorial for this invisible decrease! I’m inquiring if you would allow me to link to this in a pattern I am writing for a bear pattern? I will give you credit in the pattern (obviously since it’s going to your blog!).

Loissaid

Lois, that depends on what you’re making! Most of my patterns use 8, 9 or 10mm eyes, but there are some that use 6mm or 12mm. All PlanetJune patterns list the recommended eye sizes in their description in my shop (and on page 1 of the pattern itself, if you’ve already bought it).

Kathysaid

Kathy, you can use this method for a decrease over more stitches, but it won’t be invisible: changing 3 (or more) stitches to 1 is always going to leave a bump and/or gap, however you do it – it’s the nature of such a large decrease. I suggest you try it in your pattern, compare it with a standard sc3tog, and see which result you prefer.

Rachelsaid

Thank you so much for this! I love doing amigurumi and didn’t realise there was such thing as an invisible decrease! I hated having the bumpy side showing on some of my creations. I’m getting out of bed just to try this out now!

Leelou de Francesaid

Hi ! I like your patterns and purchase several. They are clear and, MORE in these patterns they are links to all your technical explanations. And these explanations are also so clear !! You are really a MASTER, “the” TEACHER !! THANKS, THANKS, so thank for sharing all your knowledges !!!! Leelou
(I hope that you understand my approximate english 😉 …..)

robin quadesaid

Definitely not, Robin – changing to front loops only would change the look and shape of your stitches. Invdec is only used as a direct substitute for sc2tog decreases; all the other stitches in the pattern remain unchanged.

Habibasaid

The ‘invdec’ in your pattern is just the invisible decrease I show above – an invisible way of turning 2 stitches of the round below into 1. If you don’t understand the way your pattern is written, you should contact the designer for assistance 🙂

Perriesaid

Thank you for the tutorial. I’ve been crocheting for a long time and I never heard of this stitch. It’s so invisible that I’m amazed at how I can now hide my decreases. Very cool. JAH BLESS AND ONE LOVE! !

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and creativity with the rest of us! Special kudos for including left-handed instructions! Now to go try to master the MC. It’s usually hit-or-miss whether or not I get it right.

Irene Fosssaid

Thank you very much for the lesson on invisible decrease. I had never heard of it before. But then when I started crocheting again this spring it had about 35 years since I had done any crochet.
This will be so nice to use in the 2 crochet sweaters I’m making for 2 great grand daughters. The pattern has a pretty yoke and lots of decreases. I was so glad to see the post by Sam Said asking if the invisible decrease could be done in dc. The yoke of the sweater is made in dc. I am just getting to the point where I will be starting the decreases and will use the invisible technique

SallyStrawberrysaid

Thanks so much for this tutorial. I have used the invisible when making some toadstools and the comparison between the ones I made before I learned this method of decrease and the one I have made after are tremendous! A pic can be seen in my latest post at http://sallystrawberrycrochetandknitting.blogspot.co.uk/

t.hoangsaid

Less bulky?said

Yes, and the invdec essentially pulls the stitches below together with a sc stitch, instead of a sc2tog which is formed from the bottom half of two sc stitches joined together at the top. Removing that extra half stitch does makes the decrease stitch less bulky, and the resulting stitch also looks the same as all the surrounding sc stitches, so it’s harder to spot.

Thank you so much for taking the time to leave a comment here! I read and appreciate every comment. I only respond to questions here on the blog, so please return to this page to see my reply, or check the box below to subscribe to new comments by email.

Please note that I can only answer questions related to PlanetJune patterns and tutorials (see details), and I can only respond to questions or comments written in English. Thank you :) - June