Restaurant review: Danny’s Steakhouse 教父牛排

By Ian Bartholomew / Staff reporter

The semi-open plan kitchen gives diners a glimpse of the magicians working their gastronomic alchemy, without the whole operation getting too much in your face, and the glass-fronted dry aging room and wine cellar — seemingly suspended above the kitchen — seem like a high altar to the good things of life. The clever use of a kind of frosted glass easily associated with traditional Taiwanese interiors to wall off booths is an inspired touch, giving the simple interior a personality lacking in the more minimalist designs favored by many upscale dining establishments.

Danny’s Steakhouse is altogether a very well-judged affair. The ambiance is formal without being stuffy, and the food is modern without being tiresomely intricate. This balancing act is a testament to a refinement and understanding of the local market honed over many years.