For me, not all casts are as effective for banging a cast out into a new zip code. I can't come out of a snake roll and shoot line as far as with a circle spey. Although I did a cackhanded snake roll this summer that shocked me. Put 130' out like a chalk line. I use the term circle spey as a seperate cast than a snap T even though they are technically the same cast. The way I do a snap T there is the 'snap' pause, sweep into start position and fire. In a circle spey I make the snap as a sweep and nonstop sweep back over and into the start position and shooting line without ever stopping the rod. I do it each way for a few reasons. I can't shoot line really far in a single spey unless I perry poke first. Still not every time I do that will the line shoot as far as I'd like it to. Coming out of the circle spey shoots line out to the reel every time for me. I can shoot the whole fly line that way. I was wondering what cast works best for you guys and why you think it does.

I'm not sure which of my casts give me the furthest distances. My distances seem to be the same. I only do Snap T and Double Spey casts. I can also do a Perry Poke if I don't like my anchor on the Snap T.

We can and should be somewhat more forceful when sweeping line up into our D loop, if the line being swept is from out of the water, as in the line reversal during a Double spey, Snap tee or Circle cast.

This sensation of extra tension during this line reposition motion can lead many people to naturally get a better feel of control and is largely responsible for them getting to grips quickly with waterbourne Spey casts, as opposed to beginning to master "Kiss and go" casts which require precise set ups and good timing.

I have a point on the Snake roll which I would like to share with you.
I have noticed that the anchors do often have a tendency to drop onto the water vertically rather than sliding in position towards you like on a double spey, all things being equal, the position of the anchor is also roughly vertically below the point where the rod made its "outermost" final turn before going back and up into the D.

The below sequence may help illustrate this.

A line dropping at the anchor end cannot be experiencing the same complete rearward going momentum in the D than a line of the same length which has an anchor point which slides towards you.

If you want the same anchors off a snake as those off your waterbourne casts then the trick is to discover exactly where and just how much effort do you put into D loop formation to ensure that your anchor gets placed in the right position, is completely ironed out straight and under complete tension....

and more importantly, what position do you need to come from so that you can make sure this happens....

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your information. It might help the members to know you are in the UK. You may want to add that information to your profile where it asks where are you from.

Lee,
First of all, welcome to the site, and thank you for taking the time to put together such a great post. As soon as I can hit open water, I'm sure it will help me a lot. I don't have a spey rod instructor within 500 miles of here, and taught myself how to cast watching you tube videos of guys like Eoin Fairgrieve, Kevin Patterson, and some others. I learned to do the jelly roll from the Rio trailer on you tube. I can use all the advice I can get. Kevin P. saw one of my videos and told me I was 'trunking' my cast, just that little piece of advice increased my distance a ton.The photo where your line anchors, and the D loop is formed is picture book perfect. I have wondered some times if I had a longer head, if I could anchor my snake rolls and get better distance with this cast. I think you may have hit on the problem I was having. I may have been overpowering it. Looking at the sequence of photos, I may not have been allowing the line to fully anchor before casting. I will try and slow myself down next time out. I look forward to you being on the site in the future.
Thanks,
Dan

For 'pure distance' very few casts can/could beat the single spey. If you watch the 'best of the best' 90+ of them are using this, or a very similar cast as the fellows (and Ladies) are using long belly lines.

That said, there is a minor 'revolution' going on as some casters are now using very short head lines (Skagit and Scandi) and they can really rip these things. When these lines first entered 'competition,' it/they caused quite a bit of 'controversy.' (Think the the first was a few years back in San Francisco.)

Are they 'real fly lines?' 'Should they be allowed in competition?' Etc. End game, at least with some competitions (can't speak for all) was: "Yes." The short headed lines were used by thousands of fishermen around the world. Commercially sold to anyone with $70.00 (give or take).