Breakfast makes a comeback

JOANNA PRUESS - For AP Weekly Features

Once upon a time families sat down together for breakfast. They
enjoyed favorites like homemade waffles and pancakes dripping with
real maple syrup and butter or eggs and bacon. People didn't chirp
away into cell phones; they talked with one another. And Mom, in
her inimitable wisdom, pronounced breakfast to be the most
important meal of the day.

Now, fast-forward to the 21st century where it turns out Mom is
still right.

Breakfast is indispensable. Not only does it provide essential
early-morning nourishment to people of all ages throughout the
week, it's also becoming more and more trendy for both business
meetings and social gatherings. Any time families and friends want
to get together in a relaxed setting they now consider
breakfast.

Why? Because the meal has a universal appeal to all ages and all
pocketbooks.

Low-carb diets have also brought once-forbidden breakfast foods
back into favor. Egg consumption has steadily risen in recent
years. "In 1993, it was 234.6 per capita; in 2003 the figure was
254.1," Linda Braun, director of consumer education for the
American Egg Board, says.

Braun attributes some of this to current dietary trends, but
says a more compelling reason is that eggs offer some newly
identified benefits. "The yolks are rich in choline, a nutrient
that shows promise in early studies for preventing memory loss in
later life, and lutein, known to combat age-related macular
degeneration and cataracts."

Whatever the rationale, steak and eggs and a barnyard full of
other egg dishes from frittatas to huevos rancheros are being
devoured with gusto.

At home, omelets and toast have always been popular, in the wee
hours after a night on the town, or when you're alone and want to
curl up with some comfort food, a blanket, and a good book.

Any time of day

In restaurants, the meal was once pretty much over by 10 a.m.
Today that's no longer true. With changing lifestyles, people are
enjoying breakfast fare at all hours of the day and evening, too.
Numerous restaurants across America, including the most fashionable
eateries, now serve traditional morning foods well past noon.

Veteran WCBS and Crain's New York Business restaurant reviewer
Bob Lape concurs. "The 'power' has been restored to power breakfast
in many restaurants as the white-collar work force starts earlier
both at the desk and in taking meetings."

At the Stamford, Conn., City Limits Diner, one of three by this
name in the area, manager Margaret Callanan says that within the
past few years, breakfast business has probably doubled.

"The first segment to arrive in morning are the 'suits,'
competitive lawyers and businessmen who use the hour to treat
clients like guests rather than serving them bagels in their
office," she says.

Typical of many diners, the menu at City Limits is enormous.
Along with waffles and pancakes, there are refined dishes that are
surprising at a place in this category. A great favorite is
Maryland lump-crab and lobster cake Benedict. (If you leave out the
English muffin, the rich combination is even carb-friendly.)

The most popular item is the country breakfast. It includes
eggs, house-made hash brown potatoes, sausage, bacon and ham, plus
multigrain toast from bread baked on the premises. At $7, it is a
bargain.

"On weekends families and friends come and indulge on their way
to sports activities, after church, or for no reason. That's when
people are willing to try some of the other, larger dishes,"
Callanan adds.

Comfort, too

Part of breakfast's deeper appeal is its implied sense of
comfort, the buzz word on everyone's lips. Unthreatening fare like
oatmeal and muffins easily fit that bill. But beyond nostalgia's
pull, today's breakfasters want more.

When it comes to oatmeal, for example, they might seek out
steel-cut oats imported from Ireland for toothsome texture and
earthy flavor. Trader Joe's, a "crunchy granola meets super-chic
foodie" chain that originated in Los Angeles, introduced their own
brand of the breakfast cereal not long ago.

Diane O'Connor, Trader Joe's manager of media relations, says
that along with interest in nutritionally rich whole-grain breads
and cereals like oatmeal, "the stores' bacon and eggs sales are up
significantly, as are frozen multigrain waffles and French toast,
and breakfast bars."

Today's breakfasters are fortunate. Crusty loaves of whole-grain
bread, thick slices of applewood-smoked bacon, and fine coffee
beans are sold even in tiny hamlets across America. Markets sell
premium-grade butters and artisanal preserves, as well.

If Mom's breakfast was the benchmark of comfort foods in the
good old days, today we want to capture that feeling and more. For
anyone looking to move beyond mundane morning food, high-quality,
well-prepared ingredients are the key.

And who cares what time you eat breakfast?

This flavorful frittata that uses ingredients other than the
more traditional Italian ones would make a fine breakfast, a light
lunch, or could be cut into small squares to pass as an hors
d'oeuvre.

In a nonstick 10-inch skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of butter and
the oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and saute over medium heat
until light brown, about 6 to 7 minutes. Add the apples and
continue cooking until they are limp, about 4 to 5 minutes, then
scrape them into the beaten eggs. Stir in the nutmeg, white pepper,
salt and slivered almonds.

Melt the remaining butter in the skillet over medium-high heat.
Pour in the egg mixture, shaking to distribute evenly. After 1
minute, sprinkle on the cheese and adjust heat to medium-low. After
11 to 12 minutes, loosen the frittata, shaking to be sure it is
detached. Cover the pan with a large plate and flip the frittata
onto it, slide it back into the pan, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes
more. Loosen, if necessary, before removing and cutting into
wedges. Makes 4 to 5 servings as part of a breakfast buffet.

(Recipe created by Joanna Pruess)

I often serve huevos rancheros, Mexican farmer-style eggs, to
guests. Beaten egg whites add a puff of air, or "souffle," to keep
them light, while corn, cheddar cheese and peppers add zest. Once
baked, they can sit for at least 1/2 hour. Even at room
temperature, they are very tasty.

Make an incision along each Italian frying pepper and remove the
stem, seeds and membranes, keeping the pepper in one piece.
Partially fill a saucepan or skillet with water and bring to a
boil. Add the peppers, return water to a boil, and cook until
peppers are softened, about 3 minutes. Remove and blot with paper
towels. Cool completely, then line the bottom of the casserole.

In a large bowl, beat egg yolks until smooth, stir in cheese,
corn, milk, jalapenos, and salt and pepper. In another bowl, whisk
the whites into soft peaks, then gently fold into yolk mixture
until almost blended. Scrape into the prepared casserole pan and
bake in the middle of the oven until eggs are puffy and the top is
lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Turn temperature to 325 F, and
cook until the eggs are baked through but not dry, 22 to 25
minutes. A knife inserted into the center should come out almost
clean. Remove and let eggs sit for a few minutes before cutting
into 12 rectangles. Spoon on salsa and serve. Makes 6 to 8
servings.

(Recipe created by Joanna Pruess)

Luxurious enough to please the most sophisticated diner, this
breakfast dish was created by City Limits corporate executive chef
Peter Assue.

City Limits Maryland Lump Crab-Lobster Cake
Benedict

1 cup hollandaise sauce, prepared and kept warm in a double
boiler

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus oil for frying

1/4 cup finely diced onion

1/4 cup finely diced carrots

1/4 cup finely diced red pepper

2 tablespoons medium sherry

4 ounces Maryland lump crab meat, free of shell and
cartilage

4 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced

4 ounces cooked jumbo shrimp, diced

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons chopped chives

1/4 cup thick mayonnaise

1 1/2 cups fresh white bread crumbs

6 eggs

3 English muffins, split and toasted

Prepare the hollandaise sauce and keep warm.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the
vegetables, sweat for 5 minutes, then pour in the sherry and
deglaze the pan. Cool and drain off any liquid in the bottom of the
pan.

Combine the lobster, crabmeat and shrimp in a large stainless
steel bowl. Add vegetables, chives, cilantro and mayonnaise and
gently mix. Carefully shape fish mixture into six cakes and coat
with bread crumbs.

Wipe out the skillet. Pour in enough oil to cover the bottom of
the pan. Heat until hot then fry the cakes until golden brown on
both sides, turning once. Keep warm over low heat or in the oven;
meanwhile, poach the eggs.

Place a crab cake on each muffin half, top each with a poached
egg, and spoon on some hollandaise sauce. Serve two crab cakes per
person. Makes 3 servings.

(Recipe created by City Limits corporate executive chef Peter
Assue)

Cookbook author Marion Cunningham first served me these
pancakes, melt-in-your-mouth little morsels, at Bridge Creek, her
former breakfast restaurant in Berkeley, Calif. They are delicious
with warm maple syrup poured over them. To gild the lily, I
borrowed author Rose Levy Beranbaum's idea of adding solidly frozen
fresh blueberries directly to the pancakes while on the griddle.
They stay plump and juicy that way.

Beat the eggs, salt, baking soda, flour, sour cream and sugar
together in a large bowl with a wooden spoon until smooth. This can
be done in a food processor or blender, as well.

Heat a griddle or large skillet until very hot. Add just enough
shortening to cover with a thin film. Drop onto the hot griddle
small spoonfuls of the batter measuring about 2 1/2 inches in
diameter when spread out. When a few bubbles appear on top of the
pancakes, drop a few berries onto each pancake, and quickly turn
and cook the second side briefly. Serve with maple syrup or
confectioners' sugar.

The batter keeps for up to one week when covered and
refrigerated. Makes 50 to 60 dollar-size pancakes.

This old fashioned hash is great for a weekend breakfast or
lunch, especially if you have leftover turkey. And, it's got just
enough seasoning to lift the sauteed turkey, potato, onion and corn
mixture from the mundane to eye-opening satisfaction.

Heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large,
heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the hash mixture,
flattening it slightly with a spatula. Cook for 15 minutes until it
starts to brown on the bottom and become crusty, turn with a
spatula, add another tablespoon of oil if it sticks, scrape up the
browned bits, and cook for 6 or 8 minutes longer.

Pour on vermouth and cook 1 minute longer. Serve on warm plates,
adding a poached egg on top of each serving, if desired. Makes 2 to
3 servings.

(Recipe created by Joanna Pruess)

Sally Kofke, of Montclair, N.J., makes this delicious granola in
a large batch and stores it in a tightly covered container in the
refrigerator. It lasts for up to 3 months.

In a very large bowl, combine oats, sunflower seeds, nuts,
pumpkin and sesame seeds, bran, wheat germ and salt. Pour honey
into a quart measuring cup, pour in boiling water, and whisk to
dissolve the honey, then add the oil. Pour over dry ingredients and
stir until all ingredients are evenly moistened.

Spread mixture in several jellyroll pans so the depth is no more
than .75 to 1 inch deep. Press mixture flat and bake in the
preheated oven until granola begins to brown around the edges,
about 15 minutes. Rotate pan position to ensure even cooking.

Remove pans from oven, turn granola with a spoon or wooden
spatula, mixing browned edges into the center and scraping the
bottom thoroughly. Flatten again and return pans to the oven,
baking and turning until evenly colored, about 40 minutes. Remove
from the oven.

Put raisins in a very large bowl, add granola, and mix
thoroughly. Cool completely, then refrigerate in tightly covered
containers. Makes about 5 quarts.