ST,I used aluminum coil flashing to cover my telescoping tops.Cutting is quite easy, neatly folding it was much more of a challenge than I would have expected.

To cut, simple use a good straight edge and score (sp?) it with a razor knife by making a few good passes, then fold the sheet away from the side you've marked.

To bend it properly, you really need a metal brake....There are quite a few of these available for reasonable money. However, I didn't have one and decided to give it a shot without it. I just used a straight edge and did a lot of repetative tapping with a rubber maul and tapped the folded corners into place.

It worked, but certainly wasn't pretty or finished looking. I used a thin strip of wood tacked over the seem on the sides to give it a bit more of a finished look.

Good Luck!

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"We must reject the idea that every time a law’s broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions." - Ronald Reagan

You can cut a piece of 3/4" plywood the size of your finished top.....cut your flashing 1 1/2" larger than top this will give you 3/4" on each side to turn down. Place flashing on you top the lay plywood on top of flashing and clamp securely. Next use a wooden block to push the flashing down onto side then nail to top, turn and do the opposite side the same way. Next turn and fold both corners on the end then press the flashing down and tap the corners down and nail, so the same for the other end. If you take your time you will have a neat clean job.

I too used aluminum purchased from a siding retailer. Many color choices. Cut by scoring repeatedly like Moots. To bend around edges scored once on inside of bend then tap with a hammer on wooden block. Time consuming but pleased with the result. Finished with screws purchased from same supplier. Caulked also purchased from them and color matched. Did I mention cheap?

No problem cutting it's the corner folding/bending/cutting exercise. The 24" width of the coil stock and the dimensions of a telescopic cover allow for apx 1" overhang aka edge covering side of telescopic cover with that assume apx 1" cut 45 degrees to the corner intersection then fold corner?

ST, I didn't have the patience, skill, or desire to go for as stylish of a look as fshrgy99. :)

But, this is my finished product.

As for the corners, I did no cutting....I simply bent the flap around the corner, made a tight seem and folder the other side over it. Hope that makes sense, maybe the picture will help.

« Last Edit: April 07, 2013, 02:20:29 AM by Moots »

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"We must reject the idea that every time a law’s broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions." - Ronald Reagan

Hey Moots,Your gracious comments re: my construction abilities and characteristics are appreciated even though undeserved :) I am sure that anyone running more than four hives would roll their eyes at the extravagance. The Captain recently metioned how busy he is supplying hobby beeks. This cover would certainly appeal to anyone wanting to build a hobby bee condo and would create many more hours of 'satisfying' time spent in his workshop!

Scoots, In regards to corner treatment i had cut out a corner trying to create a vertical seam when folded (as opposed as a 45 degree cut which would overlap). Caulking is necessary using this method.

I built the shown cover last year when I was in the initial flush of enthusiasm for my newly adopted daughters. Now that the honeymoon is over I'll be emulating moots design as i expand my hive count. I like the idea of the 'hospital corner fold' as there is no seam for water to leak through.

My stock was also 24" wide (guess it's a standard) and with the pitch I had barely enough to wrap the corner.

I highly recommend the caulking that was supplied by the siding distributor that sold me the aluminum."MULCO Super Expert Thermoplastic Sealant". Used it on my new basement windows as well.

I use a 2x4 that has a 45° rip the length on one corner. It took a little experimentation to get the depth right. It is basically a wooden brake as others have mentioned. I can sling some covers out in no time with it.

When making your side bends lay your top on top of your metal. Secure with a couple of clamps. Lightly score the metal along the edge all around your top as if you were cutting out a pattern. Don't cut deeply but enough to leave a good mark. Remove the top. Cut out your corner on one side only with shears to your score line. You should be able to bend the metal by hand along your score lines. Basically you are making less deep cuts than you made when you were cutting out the metal to size. Fold the remainder of your corner under and attach to top. Sorry I hope this makes sense.

no need to cut coil stock on tablesaw; score it using straight edge and utility knife.

cut 2 pieces of 2 x 4 with lenghts of 3/16 short of the lengths of each side, I am made 8 Frame Langstroth covers and with coils stock being 24" wide I used 21-13/16" & 13-5/8 2 x 4s then cut a 1" deep slot (sawblade kerf width) on the center of the 2" side of 2 x 4 ( no need for 45s etc, put long 2 x 4 in clamp, place coil stock in slot and bend with hand, do the other long side then put short 2 x 4 jig in clamp, bend both short sides of coil stock, bend flaps (I just smacked w/rubber mallet), place cover on wooden cover, adjust air pressure on compressor so staple do not pass all the way thru coil stock. have a good time

I make the folds on my tops like you would fold a Christmas present and use a flat hammer to beat the corners into submission. The finished product is seamless. Not perfect sometimes on the folded corners but if my measurements and hammering are right it looks pretty good. Once my metal is cut it doesn't take but a couple minuets to make the folds. And since its such a snug fit i don't bother with nailing the sides. If anyone is interested ill try to post some pics.