The avg speed is a little lower than normal because of the headwind. Its usually around 24.5 km/h.

Looking forward to hopefully getting a tailwind on the trip back home.

You had me thinking the Gazelle was not the way to go until this post On Wednesday night I took 2.5 hours to get home. My worst ever. Normally get it down in similar circumstances in about two hours. Wind was a killer and I was cold. That said, seriously I think the Mango is probably the better long term solution.

We have one of these and it's a great bike. However I don't think it is ideal for longer commutes. I would regard a longer commute being about 15k. For me anyway - probably about 15k would be it. Any longer and I think I'd probably go for a roadbike to access the higher travel speeds. Shorter trips is where these bikes really shine. You can just jump on them and go.

We've never run out of battery or had to charge at work, but after a return trip of 26k the battery is indicating one bar of charge - and that's a hilly route alternating between normal and boost.

One thing to be aware of if you are thinking of buying one of these, I was seriously interested until I discovered that the battery is serial number locked to the bike, even if you have 2 bikes you can't swap batteries unless a dealer programs the bikes to allow it.This raises 2 problems, I can build a lighter, higher current battery for around a 1/3 the cost of the Gazelle one for extending range or replacement down the track, and if your local Gazelle dealer closes how do you get a new battery programmed to match your bike?

geebee wrote:One thing to be aware of if you are thinking of buying one of these, I was seriously interested until I discovered that the battery is serial number locked to the bike, even if you have 2 bikes you can't swap batteries unless a dealer programs the bikes to allow it.This raises 2 problems, I can build a lighter, higher current battery for around a 1/3 the cost of the Gazelle one for extending range or replacement down the track, and if your local Gazelle dealer closes how do you get a new battery programmed to match your bike?

No 100% accurate. The batteries are only registered / locked on the higher end Excellence models. These models are not available by default in Australia (though can be special ordered). I have two Innergy XT's and we have swapped the batteries between them.

I actually wish the batteries were registered. This is an extra security measure (in case the battery/bike is stolen) and we have never needed to swap the batteries in almost 6 months of constant use.

Strange as it was the Gazelle Australian site with the information as follows:

"Is the battery protected against theft?

Yes, in 2 ways. The battery is in the frame with a separate key lock. The key is the same as the lock on the wheel. There is also a battery with a unique serial number. This serial number of the battery is stored digitally in the computer. If the number on the battery does not match the number on the computer, the bike will not operate electrically.

If you have a look at the Dutch site (http://www.gazellebikes.com/en/Collecti ... c_bicycles) you can see there are a range of Innergy bike levels. With models prior to the XT you could get the Excellent model which is the only one that has the registration. Because of the way the Australian market is Gazelle Australia decided to settle on bring the Orange Plus version as the default.

25% is a bit serious - how often do you have to tackle that hill?The max I've done in the Gazelle is probably around 15-20% but its not a hill climber. Its the sort of bike to have a relaxing ride in without working up too much of a sweat. If I came across a 25%er in the Gazelle (or most other bikes) I would dismount and walk up it!

smoran wrote:25% is a bit serious - how often do you have to tackle that hill?The max I've done in the Gazelle is probably around 15-20% but its not a hill climber. Its the sort of bike to have a relaxing ride in without working up too much of a sweat. If I came across a 25%er in the Gazelle (or most other bikes) I would dismount and walk up it!

IMHO these offer a big help with the hills. However once you pass a certain point the weight of the bike offsets the assistance.

smoran wrote:25% is a bit serious - how often do you have to tackle that hill?The max I've done in the Gazelle is probably around 15-20% but its not a hill climber. Its the sort of bike to have a relaxing ride in without working up too much of a sweat. If I came across a 25%er in the Gazelle (or most other bikes) I would dismount and walk up it!

IMHO these offer a big help with the hills. However once you pass a certain point the weight of the bike offsets the assistance.

Yeah there great on hills but when I say there not a hill climber I meant the massive ones (>20%). I scoot up a15% hill every day I commute with the innergy.

Thanks, the comments confirm what I had gathered from reviews.It's rather hilly where I live, lots of hills in the 15-20% and a few bigger, I occasionally take fire trail rides and they go way steeper again.

I ended up buying a Dutch styled crank driven bike which has no trouble with the hills, just curious if I should go back and test but it sounds like it isn't ideal for where I ride.

Hi folks – really enjoying the discussion in this forum…I have been riding my 2011 Pure Innergy for about 10 months now as my primary commuting bike…averaging between 180 – 240 k’s/week…loaded with pannier bags, work documents, books, laptop, lunch and all of the associated cycling commuter garb, change of clothes, rain jacket etc..I have other bikes – a roadie (Giant TCR), a touring bike (Vivente Randonneur) and a tandem. For me it’s a case of “horses for courses” the Gazelle as a commuting bicycle is proving to be absolutely perfect.I have ridden over 7,500 k’s since I got the bike with no mechanical issues aside from having to true the back wheel a couple of times, change the brake blocks twice and I’m going to have to change the back tyre soon – I upgraded to Marathon Plus tyres as taking the wheels of to repair a puncture whilst do-able seems just a little daunting whilst on the side of the road…The nexus hub may need some attention at some point soon – I understand they do need to be re-lubed with constant use.The upright riding position wasn’t working for me so I customised and replaced the quill stem with a quill stem adapter and a 130mm head stem, replaced the handlebars and I now have it set up as a flat bar bike (with bar ends) - This configuration provides for a more conventional riding position. I also changed the stock saddle to a narrower mountain bike saddle which I am more used to. Previous to the Gazelle I had purchased a diamond framed 26”mass produced ebike (NOPE Dyno) that went like the clappers but was poorly designed with cheap componentry – I was constantly tinkering and working on it to keep it operable. I purchased the Gazelle on the back of Simon Vincent’s review in the Ride On Magazine. 7,500 k’s later I am still smiling every time I ride it out of the driveway!

If i can work out how to attach images showing the customisation…I'll do that in a new post...

Shooting off in another direction here...whilst i really love the Gazelle Innergy as a commuter I am underwhelmed with the front light and what it puts out. Not sure how many lumens it generates, which is one thing but its also a very directional light and there is little (if any) lateral light spill. In winter I augment the front light with a separate rechargeable (more powerful) front light. I was wondering if anyone knows if its possible to replace the front light with a light that would normally be driven by a front hub dynamo? The Busch and Muller light that i have on my Vivente Randonneur is a fantastic light for lighting up unlit trails. I would buy one tomorrow if its compatible. Anyone tried a different front light combo?

I also have added a blinking red taillight to the seatpost to be seen from behind - but that just seems to be a no brainer!

VeloGiro wrote:Shooting off in another direction here...whilst i really love the Gazelle Innergy as a commuter I am underwhelmed with the front light and what it puts out. Not sure how many lumens it generates, which is one thing but its also a very directional light and there is little (if any) lateral light spill. In winter I augment the front light with a separate rechargeable (more powerful) front light. I was wondering if anyone knows if its possible to replace the front light with a light that would normally be driven by a front hub dynamo? The Busch and Muller light that i have on my Vivente Randonneur is a fantastic light for lighting up unlit trails. I would buy one tomorrow if its compatible. Anyone tried a different front light combo?

I also have added a blinking red taillight to the seatpost to be seen from behind - but that just seems to be a no brainer!

Cheers folks...

Personally I've found the Gazelle light adequate on even the darkest paths. All those attributes you describe are exactly how it was designed - for countries where bike paths are full of people getting around. Over here we just go for the biggest and brightest light we can find and screwem if it blinds oncoming bikes, cars, or pedestrians.

But I understand if you want more light. Personally I'd just add one onto the bars myself.

I do agree about the obsession we have for the bright front light - its a bit of an issue - The light I put on the bars is one of those rechargeable ebay jobs that reputes to put out over 1000 + lumens which in reality is way too powerful - Great for spotlighting in the bush and if riding single-track trails. I point it pretty tight to the road ahead to prevent blinding others in front and on flash its mad - The Busch and Muller light that come stock on the Vivente touring bike puts out a really nice amount of light - I'd be really happy if the Gazelle light had the same output...Its just a little to gentle as i do ride a fair bit on completely unlit trails...

Ooooo! Why did they have to create that light.I have the previous version and with some longish Audax rides that go through the night, that light coupled with a USB outlet for charging other electric things just seems perfect. Albeit for a price.For a E commuter it may be overkill but then, wants always overrides needs.

KonaCommuter wrote:Funny you should mention flat tyres. Well, actually it wasn't that funny coming out to my bike after a below average day at work Still, it's a slow leak so I managed to limp home Now, time to learn how to fix it

How did you get on changing the back tyre?

I picked up an industrial staple on friday heading home and it did a nice job of puncturing the Marathon plus on the backwheel - Toyed with heading the the LBS to get it fixed but decided i would have a crack at it - which i did.... and it all went OK but its a process...

First to work out how to get the chainguard off...(which was pretty straight forward actually)Then undo the gear cable/break cable and break armThe loosen of the tension screws and unhook the chainLoosen of the wheel nuts, then the back wheel off and change tube (the easy bit!)Whilst i had everything off i gave the bike a really good cleanThen the same in reverse... except i now had a frayed gear cable and couldn't get it back through the housing so i had to change the cable and work out the whole twist grip/mech arrangementTension the gear cable - align the little yellow tabs on the gear arm with those on the body of the hub while in gear 4...(probably need to check this for a week or two as the cable stretches)Getting the chainguard back on was a bit of an aptitude test (at least it was for me!) Done!

Quite a feeling of satisfaction really - I was on the back deck - nice sunny day - listening to the footy - had myself a stubbie at the end of it all - very pleasant

Not sure how i would feel about having to do this on the side of the road though...

VeloGiro wrote:I picked up an industrial staple on friday heading home and it did a nice job of puncturing the Marathon plus on the backwheel - Toyed with heading the the LBS to get it fixed but decided i would have a crack at it - which i did.... and it all went OK but its a process...

First to work out how to get the chainguard off...(which was pretty straight forward actually)Then undo the gear cable/break cable and break armThe loosen of the tension screws and unhook the chainLoosen of the wheel nuts, then the back wheel off and change tube (the easy bit!)Whilst i had everything off i gave the bike a really good cleanThen the same in reverse... except i now had a frayed gear cable and couldn't get it back through the housing so i had to change the cable and work out the whole twist grip/mech arrangementTension the gear cable - align the little yellow tabs on the gear arm with those on the body of the hub while in gear 4...(probably need to check this for a week or two as the cable stretches)Getting the chainguard back on was a bit of an aptitude test (at least it was for me!) Done!

Quite a feeling of satisfaction really - I was on the back deck - nice sunny day - listening to the footy - had myself a stubbie at the end of it all - very pleasant

Not sure how i would feel about having to do this on the side of the road though...

Give it a go folks if you get a rear wheel puncture - Its do-able!

If it helps - I've done some vids on youtube on how to remove the chaincase and rear tyre on an Gazelle Innergy XT.

There are a number of ways to remove the rear wheel and the one I have there is probably not the most optimal (could save some steps) but it got the job done. Paul Martin in the comments has some good suggestions on other ways.

There are a number of ways to remove the rear wheel and the one I have there is probably not the most optimal (could save some steps) but it got the job done. Paul Martin in the comments has some good suggestions on other ways.

Thanks for that smoran - Ahhh i should have posted anyone had a crack at taking the rear wheel off prior to giving it a go! Your you tube is really useful/instructive for anyone wanting to take the real wheel off a Gazelle ebike...it remains a bit of a process and not one i would be all that wrapped about doing on the side of the road- need quite a few tools/time etc

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