I was trying to turn in and go immediately to lots of power, like a jerk. My right foot got the best of me. Next time out I tried just feeding it in just short of wheel spin and it was perfect, no corrections, no late lifts, no nothing.— Terry Earwood, Going Faster - Master The Art of Race Driving

Archive for November, 2009

This article covers the basics of kart data acquisition/data logging (why use it and what for), and goes over what karters should consider when purchasing their first data logging system. A large emphasis is placed on comparing the available systems. I won’t go into much detail about actually analyzing the data - that’ll come in later articles.

At almost any kart meeting you’ll notice that almost all the drivers have a digital dash on their steering wheel which typically shows them at least their lap times, their RPM (Engine Revolutions Per Minute), and an engine temperature (water or cylinder head).

You might feel that it’s a waste of money spending hundreds or thousands (depends on your currency really) on a timing system when you can have your mate time you with a stopwatch. The reason that so many people spend money on these systems is that even when used only to view lap times drivers already gain valuable feedback on their driving. When used to the maximum a data logging system can potentially improve your performance every single time you download and analyze the data!

Additionally other than improving performance a system can potentially save you money warning you of an imminent engine failure – if you see your temperature reading going excessively high you know something is wrong. More than a few engines have been saved when a water hose has come loose or a radiator has broken and the driver has been warned by his onboard dash.

Hopefully that’s already given you enough incentive to consider a data logging system if you don’t have one yet…

What does a data logging system consist of?

A basic entry level data-logging system usually records your laptimes, engine RPM, and engine temperature (water or cylinder head). These basic features can get you quite far already in data analysis, especially if you are able to download the data and review it on a laptop on the software provided with the logger.

The next options usually include a wheel speed sensor and a g-force sensor which are very useful tools in data analysis.

And some even more advanced sensor options available:

Additional wheel speed

Exhaust Gas Temperature/Lambda

GPS

Throttle

Brake

Steering

Tire Temperature

Tire Pressure

Power Valve

What are data loggers used for?

The most obvious benefit of using an onboard display is that it provides the driver with instant feedback on their kart and their driving. On the track the driver will receive instant feedback on his laptimes and will know immediately if a change in setup or driving has improved his laptime.

The driver will also know if there is something wrong with his engine or if he’s running the wrong gearing. If the temperature rises above normal levels he might be alerted to a broken water pump for example which otherwise could’ve resulted in an expensive engine repair bill. With the RPM information a driver will also know if he has gone out with too tall a gearing for example – he will be able to see instantly if he is over-revving the engine at the end of the straight and he can pit to change his gearing and save the engine.

Now that is only what the driver can see on the display when out on the track – with the data logging capabilities there is a lot more to be gained. The onboard systems aren’t only able to constantly display this information to the driver – but they are also able to constantly record this data (duh, that’s why they’re called data loggers).

Most karting data acquisitions systems log data at a rate of 10Hz (10 Hertz), which simply means that they are capable of recording data 10 times per second. This means that with the assistance of software to interpret the data you can plot graphs that display RPM or other values during your lap for every 10th of a second. The PI Research kart system has logging capabilities at 50Hz (50 times per second), which largely justifies its much higher price. You have to be very experienced to be able to take advantage of the added capabilities of the PI system.

RPM Graph

The real beauty of data logging comes in comparing your data from one lap to another by overlaying the different laps’ data on the same graph. With just the RPM data you are able to see where you lost time and where you gained it. After a driving-style or setup adjustment you can review the data to see where it helped you gain time – or where it went wrong.

RPM Overlay

Even better for driver improvement is comparing your lap to that of another driver on similar equipment. This is where the real gains are to be made especially for new drivers if you are able to find an experienced driver’s data to compare to. It will instantly become apparent where you are losing most of the time from driving technique and you can then focus on those sections by observing him on track to see what the faster driver is doing differently.

Which data logging system should you purchase?

Now that we’ve covered the very basics of data logging and what you can use it for, hopefully you’ve convinced yourself (or your dad) that you really do need to splurge a bit of your hard-earned cash for a data logging system. We’ll now go over what you should consider when choosing a system.

Now because we are talking about data logging, we won’t consider the lower-end models which only display data but don’t provide the possibility of downloading the data.

So the minimum capabilities we are looking for are:

display and log laptimes

display and continuously log RPM data

display and log engine temperature data

data must be downloadable

The big three karting data logging companies that offer products in the “affordable” price range are Alfano, MyChron (AIM), and Unipro. In addition to this there is PI-Research with their X-Kart system which is in a price point and performance level above the other three. We’ll go over what these different products offer.

The main considerations we will look at when considering the different loggers and models are:

Timing Method (Magnetic/Infra red/Loop)

Basic Functions available in the unit

Expandability

Software

So this means we will not look at the cheapest options such as the Alfano Fun or MyChron Light which offer only lap timing for example.

Timing Method

Alfano, MyChron, and Unipro all offer both magnetic and infra red timing options in all their models. However it is a consideration you have to make when purchasing the system. Judging from their online information PI Research only offer the infrared option, no reply was received via email when I asked them about this.

The systems have to be triggered at the start of each lap by either a magnet-strip in the track or by an infrared beacon that you place beside the track. The magnetic option is more convenient because you don’t have to remember to put your infrared beacon on the track and take it back at the end of the day - however the tracks you drive at must have a magnetic strip installed. If you know that all the tracks you are going to be driving at have the strip installed then there is no point choosing the infrared option as it is less convenient and more expensive as you have to purchase the beacon, so go with the magnetic sensor. If you are going to be at tracks without a magnetic strip then you have no option but to use the infrared method.

Unipro also has a “loop” option. Which uses a similar sensor to the magnet version. They recommend this as the most reliable option as it is less likely to suffer from vibrations. The problem however is that there has to be an active AMB timing loop on the track.

Now lets get down to more specific details of the different manufacturers and their models.

Alfano

Models from Alfano which meet the minimum requirements (rpm, temp, timing) in order from cheapest to most expensive are the PRO V2, PRO+ LV, AStrO LV.

The PRO V2 offers the basic functions discussed earlier but with little room for expandability. All the sensors are compatible with the more expensive loggers so if you upgrade at least your rpm, temperature, and timing sensors will fit on your new system.

A huge drawback of the PRO V2 is its data logging capabilities. You have to put the display into a different mode if you want to record an RPM-trace of your laps, and you are extremely limited as it only records one session and for only a short session. I don’t recommend the PRO V2 if you’re interested in analyzing data beyond your laptimes. Additionally the PRO V2 only logs RPM data at 5hz compared to 10hz of the other Alfano displays. These drawbacks are the same on earlier PRO+ and PRO models which the V2 replaces.

Otherwise the PRO V2 is a robust system and good for the price if you aren’t interested in reviewing more than your laptimes and maximum rpm. It also offers 5 engine time counters, and it has warning functions for temperature and rpm.

The PRO+LV adds improved data recording as all data can be recorded at all times, and in addition to the basic functions you can also add several additional sensors: wheel-speed sensor, lambda sensor, power-valve sensor, and battery voltage sensor.

The ASTRO LV is the premier product in the Alfano karting range and offers the possibility of using a brake pressure sensor as well as a g-force sensor in addition to the sensors avbailable in the PRO+LV.

With Alfano to make a choice between the different models it is important to consider how much expandability and which sensors you will require when you purchase your first system. If for example you purchase the PRO+LV and in the future you want to add a G-Force sensor you have no choice but to purchase the Astro LV.

All alfano displays also have run-time counters for tracking engine usage.

Aim/MyChron

Aim adopts a useful strategy of a modular system in their MyChron4 data acquisition product – they have the basic functions in the display unit and additional functionality can be gained by purchasing additional add-on components. This way if you want to upgrade and start using a throttle sensor or additional temperature sensors you can use the same basic system and add-on an “eBox Extreme” for example.

With the basic MyChron4 configuration you get the minimum functions that we discussed earlier – laptime, temperature, rpm, and the ability to download and analyze this data. It’s an affordable way to get into data logging and then easy to upgrade later.

You are able to download the data onto your laptop directly or using a very useful datakey - a usb drive that can download the data so that you don’t have to have your laptop at the track or next to your kart when you get the data. You are able to review the lap data from all laps with RPM traces. The MyChro4 offers the best in-display review of your laps as you are able to view rpm traces for example on the display in the pits.

Expansion possibilities come in the form of expansion boxes: the eBox Gold and the eBox Extreme. These offer a myriad of additional sensor possibilities including a GPS capability to map your laps. One thing I don’t believe MyChron have yet is a powervalve sensor - the other three do. The MyChron 4 also has good engine and tyre use counters.

Unipro

The main models to consider from Unipro are the 6002, 6003, 7002, and 7003. These are very nice systems that offer slightly limited expandability at the moment compared to the other options here. For example Unipro does not have a G-Force sensor option yet. It does offer enough options for some very serious data analysis and driver improvement. A nice thing about all the Unipro displays is that they have a separate logger-box which you mount under the nassau panel so you only have one wire going to the steering wheel. All the loggers offer engine run-time logging for 25 engines and tyre use counters for 8 sets of tyres.

The choice between the different unipro models boils down to two things: The different between the X002 models and X003 models is the display. The 7003 and 6003 displays are more configurable and offer more information when looking at the data in the pits than the X002 displays. You are able to run through nice graphical displays with your min/max rpm and speed from every lap for example. Otherwise the functions are very similar. The difference between the 700X and 600X displays is in the memory they have for logging data. The 700X can log data for close to 8 hours. Depending on the amount of inputs though the cheaper 600X version should get you about 2 hours - so you only need the 700X displays if you know you need data logging for long periods of time without download.

Please note however that Unipro is introducing several new sensors in the coming months. A g-force sensor along with other new sensors will be introduced. They are also introducing a new version of the PC Analyser program very soon.

Pi Research

The PI Research X-Kart display can display pretty much the information as the others, but it adopts a bright LED rather than a digital display display, so it is less configurable and probably takes more time to get used to all the functions than the other displays because it can’t display everything in clear text like most of the digital displays can.

They also have a modular system in which you need to add a compact logger for basic logging functionality (speed, rpm, temp, etc.) and a Delta Clubman logger for many more advanced options. There is an endless amount of sensors you can use with the PI system. Two examples that aren’t available for the other systems are infrared tyre temperature sensors and tyre pressure sensors! As mentioned before the PI system has the expandability to greater logging rates, to 50hz for example with the Clubman logger and with more $$ even more is possible. Whether or not you need more than 50hz is another thing.

Backlighting on displays

This is for fairly specific use - if you drive your kart in dark conditions such as in nighttime races with poor lighting you will want to consider purchasing a system that can offer a display with a backlight. The MyChron 4 offers this option and the PI X-Kart Dash has bright LEDs to show information.

Which display?

I like them all! The Unipro is real simple to go through and configure, while the alfano is just slightly more tricky in my opinion. The MyChron seems very handy and the USB download is a really good feature. I’d have to try the PI X-Kart to form a proper opinion, however it does look bad-ass and the display looks clearly legible.

I have extensive experience of using the Alfano PRO and the Unipro 6003 and 6002. They have all been reliable systems, and I’ve liked all of them on the track, however for me the software is just as important as the functions of display/logger when choosing one, if not even more so.

Comparing the Data Acquisition Software

If your decision for your data logger was based solely on the display and peripherals the choice might be fairly difficult. All the displays are well built and all offer pretty good capabilities to read the data off them. Once you start downloading data and using the software to analyze your performance a critical aspect in your decision of which system to for for should also come down to how good the software is.

All the manufacturers have their own software to display and interpret the data. For linux and Max OSX users you are out of luck - you’ll have to be using Windows for your data logging analysis as this is the only operating system any of the companies make software for.

Aim Race Studio (MyChron)

Unipro PC Analyser

PI Club Expert Windows

Alfano VisualData

We will look at and compare some key features of the different software: General Usability and Feel, Printing and Data Export, Comparison Graphs, Setup/Notes recording, and some important software features such as being able to view split times and overlays.

If you want to save your time and not read through the specifics: Aim Race Studio has very good software so you won’t go wrong. Next I prefer PI Club Expert and Unipro Analyser. Alfano Visual Data is the worst of the software packages. Software preference however is also largely down to the person using them so it’s best to try them for yourself as well. All 4 can be downloaded online at these pages and they all include sample laps:

Aim Race Studio 2 is easy to get a hang of. They also have fairly good documentation to help you get started and understand what you are able to do with the software. The general feel of the software is good. You don’t have to wait for anything to pop-up or appear. It’s easy to configure what you want to display - of the four programs the easiest and fastest to change what graphs you are displaying. All menu’s are simple to understand, and small images to bring up different reports quickly show a detailed explanation of the button when you mouse-over them. Aim adds a nice touch of being able to directly email your downloaded test file directly, rather than having to separately attach it in your email program. The others don’t offer this handy addition. It’s difficult to fault Aim Race Studio 2.

The general feel and usability of the Unipro software isn’t bad. After a bit of familiarization it is quite simple to do what you want, but some things such as selecting what to display on a graph are slightly cumbersome compared to Aim’s Race Studio. The info slide-outs on the left side for driver info and other data don’t disappear or appear very fluidly after you’ve opened them - and they don’t open with a click but rather just by hovering over them so they accidentally come in the way sometimes. It wasn’t immediately apparent that it was possible to click on part of the slide-outs to make the go away.

Unipro is hard at work on a new version of their software, and after trying an Alpha release of it for a while all my complaints have gone away - so hopefully soon Unipro software will be at the very top along with Aim Race Studio. (Update April 2009: Unipro does not yet have a fully functional version of their new software, so they are still behind in this area).

Alfano’s software is in my opinion the worst quite comfortably. It’s difficult to navigate around, and difficult to configure the graphs. Moving graphs around is annoying as you can’t have windows partially outside the main window - so you sometimes face problems moving one graph out of the way enough to get to another. I haven’t been able to figure out how to compare laps from two different downloads, which is a very big issue, although I expect it to be available somehow. It does still offer all the analysis options and after some familiarization I started to get a hang of it, so it’s not a complete loss, it just isn’t on par with the others. The software is a lot better than 5+ years ago, but it still has some way to go. It just is far too difficult to figure out simple things.

Unipro, PI, and Alfano software offer some form of simple kart setup recording. Particularly in the Unipro this is quite simple and intuitive to do and it also has the most options, and this will be further improved in their new software. Aim Race Studio doesn’t offer much in this regard other than kart name, driver name, comment. I personally prefer to not having all these options as it clutters the software a little bit at least in the Unipro Analyser, and there are other solutions to recording your software such as TrackTimer software or simply excel sheets and pen-and-paper - and add the critical information and changes into the comment fields available with all softwares. For simple use the Unipro setup recording is ok and might please many karters.

Overlays and Delta Time:

All 4 software options allow you to compare data by plotting two or more graphs on top of eachother. This is an absolutely critical aspect of data analysis. For example if you are able to put the speed traces from 2 laps on the same graph you are able to instantly see where the differences are.

Using an additional graph called delta-time you can see exactly where one lap loses time to the other lap.

Graph on Top Shows Delta-Time

All the software versions have the Delta-Time function, also called Compare-Time. What it does is plots a graph of the difference in time of two laps - you can see a continuous plot of when one lap is faster or slower than another lap. This is one of the most useful features used in data logging software.

While all of the softwares can display delta-time, there are differences in how many overlays they can display. Luckily all softwares are at least adequate in this area. Alfano provides 3 at the most - this is suitable for most applications, although a few more to find general trends is useful. Pi allows you to plot 1, 2 or all laps from a session as does the new Unipro software with one additional compare-lap as well. Aim handles this very well allowing you to select from two sessions and more than enough laps per session.

Pi, Unipro, and Aim are all able to overlay laps from different sessions (separate downloads) - I wasn’t able figure this out with Alfano. This is a big oversight if it really isn’t possible.

Split times, Theoretical Lap and best Rolling Lap:

All have the option to display a list of all laptimes with their splits and also tell you the theoretical best lap. There is a bit of variance how many splits are possible with the different systems but they are all adequate for most users. It’s down to personal preference which solution of displaying the splits you like best.

Zooming

It’s very important during data analysis to be able to zoom in and out of the graphs and then easily return to the standard view again. With Unipro it was quite easy to zoom into a specific section, although in their multi-graph view it wasn’t possible to zoom back to full view - this was an oversight and has been fixed for the new version due out soon, which also includes an additional useful magnifier option.

I don’t have any complaints on the zooming capabilities of the Alfano, Aim, and Pi software’s zooming capabilities.

Track Mapping

Getting a map of your track is useful to get a view of the track so you know exactly where you are as you are scrolling through the data, and to split the lap into section. One more functionality is to be able to overlay data on a map to get a visual representation.

All but the Unipro software offer track mapping - this is because Unipro doesn’t currently have a G-force sensor. Track mapping typically uses g-forces and speed to plot a map. This will be available very soon, and the features look very good, such as being able to overlay various data on the map.

Aim’s software comes out on top here compared to Pi and VisualData. It’s very easy to overlay data (such as speed, rpm) on top of a map in a color-coded way.

Printing and Data Export Capabilities

Aim Race Studio handles printing extremely well, and is miles ahead of both Unipro and Alfano software. Whatever you have displayed in the program such as an RPM comparison graph is printed in a clear manner with general information displayed on the top such as session name, date, track, vehicle, notes, and a small track map if you have mapping capability or have added a track map. The base color is white for easy reading off a sheet of paper. Printing out a list of all laptimes in a session is also very simple, as is any other info you are able to view within the program.

Data Export is also very good in Race Studio 2. You can export in CSV, Motec (CSV), Bosch LapSim (CSV), txt, and excel. Aim’s Race Studio export functionality is easily the best of the 4. PI and Unipro both have good excel export. And Unipro has it’s own report files.

Alfano VisualData is severely lacking in this section. Once you figure out how to print a graph (right-click and print) you end up with only the graph (no additional info such as date etc), and it is printed as it looks in the software with a black background! This slows down printing and wastes ink, as well as making it difficult to view the data particularly if you are running even slightly low on black ink. I was unable to figure out how to print a list of all laptimes (right-click print wasn’t available in the laptime view). Data export doesn’t appear to be possible in any form.

While it is lacking in the export functionality PI Club Expert offers very good printing - choose the graph or table you want to print and it prints out a similar to MyChron sheet but with slightly more info on the top such as the laptimes and best laptime of the session.

In Unipro’s new PC Analyser the printing capabilities will be improved to be on par with Pi and Aim, and the export capabilities are extremely good.

Making the final decision

Before we go any further there are some issues you should factor in to your decision other than the quality and features of the logger and its software such as what system is popular where you drive or which system do your teammates have? A lot of value from data logging is derived from comparing laps so it’s good if you use the same system. Does your local kart shop stock parts and sell the system? You don’t want to be stranded because a sensor broke and you can’t find a replacement.

System pricing

Here’s an approximate list of prices obtained from the internet for readers to get a general idea of the differences in pricing of the different systems.

MyChron4 - 255 EUR

eBox Gold - 325 EUR

eBox Extreme - 520 EUR

Unipro 6002 - 455 EUR

Unipro 6003 - 510 EUR

Unipro 7002 - 510 EUR

Unipro 7003 - 569 EUR

(All unipro prices for base kit - only timing, temp and rpm sensors)

Alfano PRO V2 - 280 EUR

Alfano PRO+ LV - 340 EUR

Alfano AStrO LV - 480 EUR

(Only RPM and Timing sensors)

Pi Clubman Logger with X-Sport Dash - 3,000 EUR

(including wheelspeed sensor and a fair bit more - waiting for more pricing info on kart-kits from Pi)

The MyChron4 and the Alfano seem like the top value-for-money systems particularly for simple data logging only. The Pi is in a class of it’s own on price.

Customer Care / Technical Response

In the midst of writing this article and going through the various programs from the respective manufacturers, I naturally had some questions I wanted to ask the manufacturers. Software issues or questions about the technical solutions of their products for example.

This turned out to be a great way of testing out one very important aspect of data logging equipment - customer support for technical assistance or product problems. If you’re heading into a race and suddenly a problem arises with your software or your logger, you want a response quickly. Or even if it’s not a time-critical issue it’s still nice to know that they are there for you.

I emailed Pi Research, Aim (MyChron), and Alfano all on the same day asking some simple questions and I also mentioned that I was writing an article comparing their products with their competitors’ (that should give them even more reason to respond).

A day later I had yet to receive any replies so I tried my luck with Unipro. Within hours I had a response from Claus Lok Mortensen telling me that he will get back to me later - I thought well this is promising. True to his word not much later I got very detailed answers to my questions. He told me the reasons behind the issues I raised, and he actually emailed me the Alpha version of their new software so that I could see for myself what direction they had taken with their new software. Now that was a response! This is also the reason why I’ve been able to offer in-depth Unipro information in this article.

After a week of waiting I’ve yet to hear back from the others.

Just a note that some companies such as Aim and Pi have their own separate customer service and technical teams in their large markets such as the USA, so your customer service experiences may vary depending on your location.

Conclusions

At the moment I use the Unipro 6003 on my kart, and I don’t have any complaints other than the software not really being 100% to my preferences (new one that I like more is on the way), however I can still accomplish everything I want without much annoyance. It’s an extremely solid system, and has some very smart solutions. I love the display and using it at the track - very intuitive. I rarely have to check the manual so it’s easy to get a hand of just by flipping through the options. I see no reason to change to another logger at the moment.

With the Unipro I use the RPM, wheel speed (front), water temp, and a power valve sensor. Next addition will probably be a temperature sensor (exhaust). I’m also waiting for their G-force sensor and new software to be released.

If I didn’t currently have a data logging system I might get the MyChron4. I’d also like to add the eBox Extreme and a bunch of sensors.

If I didn’t have to pay for it, I’d get the Pi system with the 50hz+ sampling rate and all the bells and whistles (Delta Lite logger with tyre temperature, pressure, etc.).

I wouldn’t go for an Alfano again simply because I just do not like their software. Their displays are ok and I like using them, but I have to be comfortable in front of the PC as well. As mentioned earlier though if you can get the hang of their software you should definitely give their products a thought.

Remember that one data logger is not suitable for all drivers. If for example all you will ever need is an RPM trace, temperature, and timing without any intentions to constantly pour over data then just pick one that fits your budget and use it.

To select your system look carefully at what you want to use now and in the future. There might be some specific features that you are interested in that are only available in one or two systems such as the GPS sensor from MyChron which would limit your choices. If you know you will be constantly pouring over data I’d advise against the Alfano system unless you know you can get comfortable with the software.

If you aren’t interested in data logging (why did you read this article?) but just want a display for RPM, temp and times then you can probably go with the cheapest system available to you.

This is the first in a series of articles intended for rental karters as well as those new to the sport to get the best experience and performance out of their karting. We’ll cover the very basics that are good for the first-time rental karter, but some of the info here could also help an experienced driver extract more performance. Everything in this article applies to both indoor and outdoor tracks unless otherwise mentioned.

Get Comfortable!

Feeling comfortable in the kart is one of the most important aspects at any level of karting. Especially when you’re just getting started you want as few distractions as possible so that all your focus is on the driving. If you can’t reach the pedals, or you can’t see properly because your helmet is moving around you’re not giving your driving 100% and you’ll be losing time. Your clothing and seating position are critical.

Clothing

The first step in being comfortable in the kart is what you wear. Most karting establishments do a fairly good job in providing good helmets, suits, and gloves. At the kart tracks that don’t do such a great job it’s even more important that you’re well prepared.

We’ll start with your shoes. Don’t even think of showing up at a kart track with sandals or flip-flops. You’ll look like a twat and you won’t be able to control the pedals properly making you look even worse because you’ll be slow. What you’re looking for in shoes is protection (particularly ankle), and pedal feel.

The most common option is to wear sneakers (running shoes), preferably with a little bit of ankle-protection for safety. Everyone has a set of sneakers in their closet so bring those along. If you have a few pairs of sneakers take the ones that have the thinnest soles, because with the thinnest soles you’re able to feel the pedals the best. Don’t take your brand new runners because they’re bound to get a little scuffed-up. Much better than running shoes are actual karting/racing shoes. These have a very thin and soft rubber sole which allows optimum feel of the pedals.

Some boxing and wrestling shoes are also very good if you happen to have a pair of them somewhere. They are very similar to racing shoes with thin soles and good ankle protection.

There are a selection of racing-type shoes from Puma now readily available in sports stores typically labeled as casual footwear. While these are a good buy you’re still better off finding karting shoes from a kart shop because the rubber soles in the “mainstream racing” shoes are usually a little thicker or at least of a much harder rubber construction (because they’re designed as every-day shoes so they need to last).

The good rental kart tracks provide gloves for you to use, however these are typically the cheapest gloves they could find. Some tracks don’t provide you with any gloves at all so if you’re looking to be karting fairly often you should get your own. Good gloves to provide protection and better feel of the steering allowing because with good gloves you don’t have to hold on to the wheel as hard as you would with your bear hands. Particularly when you get a little bit sweaty you start to lose grip on the plasticky rental kart steering wheels so you have to hold on tighter. When you hold the steering wheel tight you loose optimum feel and you get tired faster.

What you’re looking for in a glove is very little padding on your palm/fingers, so using weight-lifting gloves or bicycle gloves isn’t ideal because they typically have some padding on the palm side, however they are still much better than no gloves because they are usually designed to grip. If you ride a motorbike your gloves are probably great for karting so you can use those. They have thin material on the palm because you need good feel of the throttle/brakes/clutch and they’re designed to protect when you fall.

The best option is to buy gloves specifically designed for karting. Personal preference comes to play, however usually most drivers prefer gloves with stitching on the outside because it means you don’t get the seams under your fingers restricting your feel and resulting in blisters. Unfortunately the gloves with outside-seams are also the most expensive, so you have to spend a bit if that’s what you prefer. Sizing for gloves is important – too loose and they cause blisters because they fold-over in place – too tight and they won’t feel right and you’ll be restricting blood flow! Remember that gloves have to be the right size when you’re grabbing a steering wheel – so if possible when trying on gloves for size grab on to a steering wheel or a bar roughly the same diameter.

If you don’t know if a kart track provides you with a karting suit to wear you should come prepared with jeans, and preferably a long-sleeve shirt as well. If you wear shorts and the track doesn’t provide you with a racing suit you’ll have the uncomfortable prospect of having air rush into your shorts and pushing them up possibly showing much more skin than you’re comfortable with! Additionally if you’re at an outdoor track you’ll have a lot of sand and other debris heading for you-know-where. Jeans stay in one place and they offer a bit of protection as well, just make sure they aren’t too tight so that they don’t restrict your movement.

For tracks that do provide you with a suit wear a good pair of boxers and a t-shirt. You’ll want to take your pants/shorts off when using a suit because it’ll bulk up and feel uncomfortable. Take time selecting the correct size, one that doesn’t restrict your movement while not having too much excess material floating around.

One of the most dreaded things about rental karting is having to put on a helmet worn by hundreds of other drivers before you! The helmets don’t even get washed! The good rental places have quality helmets and have a drying system which keeps the helmets dry and they also supply cotton balaclavas that you throw in the laundry basket after you’re done.

If you don’t have your own helmet take time in selecting a good helmet from the rental track’s selection. Try on a helmet and if it fits, try on the next smaller size, and then the next smaller size until it starts getting impossible to put it on. Helmets should fit very snugly. If you can easily move the helmet side-to-side when it’s on your head you have to go smaller. It should be at least slightly difficult putting it on. Also before you try the helmet on have a look at the buckle-system and make sure you know how to use it.

When buying your helmet you should consider if you might be taking up karting competitively in a year or so? If yes you shouldn’t waste money on a “budget” helmet only to have to buy a proper one a year later. Look for a Snell rating on the helmet – either Snell SA2005(car) or K2005(kart). If you won’t be racing any time soon then for the top of the line you can add M2005 as well to the list. The main difference to M2005 is it’s meant for motorcycles. The visor is typically 2mm on a bike helmet whereas in the car or karting helmets it’s 3mm. The impact tests are very similar.

You can also safely buy a cheap helmet as long as it meets some kind of safety standard – look for DOT or BSI or ECE. The no.1 thing is to make sure it fits your head properly and is the correct size. If it’s loose not only will it not protect you properly in a crash but it will move around and disturb your driving.

Getting in the kart - Seating Position

Now that we’ve got all that out of the way we’ll get to actually getting in the kart and making sure you’re comfortable in it. You’ll never get to the same level as you would in a race kart for which you’d buy a seat that fits you perfectly but you can do some things to get the best fit possible. The better your seating position the more you can concentrate on the driving and the more consistent you’ll be.

In rental karting you are usually forced to make a compromised decision on your seating position. The seats are designed to fit everyone – so for most they will be too big and you’ll be moving around a lot. Look around to see if the karts have different size seats and sit in a few to find the best one for you. Good rental kart operators have a few extra-large and a few extra-small seats to fit drivers in. Also check to see if they have seat-inserts if you’re struggling to find a good seat. Ideally you want a seat which will not let you move from side-to-side at all, but also one which doesn’t create any pressure-points which can cause pain.

In real sub-par rental kart places check the seat-bolts to make sure none of them will eat in to your back!

Many rental karts let you move the seat forward and backward a little, and some karts also have moveable pedals. Make full use of these adjustable features! The first thing to check is that you can reach the steering wheel properly. When sitting back in the seat you should be able to hold the wheel in the 9 and 3 position and still have your elbows bent. If they’re straight move the seat forward and if you can’t make sure you find a kart in which you can have your elbows bent.

The ideal position for your legs to be in is a little bit bent at the knees but not so much that you’re hitting the steering wheel. You have to be able to press the brake and throttle all the way without having to stretch or move around and you should still have a bit of a bend in the knees.

You’ll notice some problems with your seating position only once you’ve been on the track, so if you’re going for another go see what you could do to improve any problems you had

You should not be moving around in the kart a lot when driving. Sometimes it is necessary to lean over a bit particularly with your head/neck because you aren’t used to the forces and don’t have the karting-stamina yet. In general though it’s best to remain quite still and composed in the kart, extra movement makes you needlessly tired and takes attention away from the driving.

Driving

Now we’re at the part most will really be interested in… the actual driving and how to go fast! This will cover the very basics, and just like in anything else you have to master these basics first. Mastering the basics will get you to within a fraction of a second of the fast times, so before trying a lot of advanced techniques that you might have heard of make sure you have these under control.

The number one key to being fast in a rental kart is to keep the momentum up. The karts don’t accelerate fast and once they lose speed it takes a lot of time picking up the speed again. Which means you have to be smooth with all three inputs with which you control what the kart does: the throttle, the brake, and the steering. With braking you should try to get all or most of it done when your steering wheel is still pointing dead-straight. Karts only have rear brakes so it’s like using only your handbrake in a rear car.

The brake and the throttle should not be used at the same time. Some believe this to work on rental karts by keeping the revs up but somehow the fastest drivers don’t do it. The brakes are for slowing down, the throttle is for speeding up. You should aim to be on one or the other at almost all times – when you’re not on either one you are probably wasting time somewhere.

The Basic Racing Line

The aim at least for most drivers is to get around the track in the shortest possible amount of time. To do so we have to keep the fastest average speed possible throughout the track. Down the straights it is simple – just hammer the throttle and hold on. In the corners it gets more complicated.

Here’s a typical racing line through a hairpin at a rental track:

The simple rule to the racing line is to go out-in-out. You should be on the very outside edge of the track when you’re approaching a corner. You then turn into the corner and hit the apex on the inside of the corner. The apex is a term for the part where you “clip” the inside part of the track. You then go out again to the very edge of the track. If you aren’t using all of the track you’re losing time.Watch a formula one race and you’ll notice that in most corners the drivers are at the white line on the entry, they then hit the curb on the inside, and then go to the very outside edge of the track again often over a curb. Watching motorsports on tv in general is good for having a look at the racing line. Pay attention to how well drivers use all of the track.The line you take determines the speed that you can drive through the corner. If for example you drive on the very inside edge of the track your distance traveled will be shorter, but because you’re driving along a much tighter arc you have to drive a lot slower.

The key to going fast when you’re starting out is to go slow-in, and fast-out of corners. What this means is that you should focus your attention on getting a fast exit out of the corner so that you can carry that speed along the next straight and don’t spend time accelerating from a slow speed. Brake hard but don’t think that attacking the corner entry will be fast.

You should have the kart very stable when you’re entering the corner and you should be able to get back on the throttle almost immediately after you’ve started to turn the steering wheel. To ensure a fast exit you can sacrifice your entry speed a little by taking care to keep the kart well under control to allow for a rocket exit. If you know this and your friends don’t you’ll have them complaining that they catch you entering the corners yet you fly away down the straight! They’ll blame it on the kart but you’ll know the real reason.

Heading onto the track, relax!

When you’ve gotten in the kart and are heading for the track just remember the driving advice above and relax. Take the out-lap and the first few laps nice and easy to familiarize yourself with the kart and the track. Then start increasing speed little-by-little. Don’t think about attacking the track - think smooth, smooth, smooth and just let the times come to you.

Very often a new driver notices that their first lap was their fastest - because they weren’t pushing yet. Once they started attacking they started to lose time even though they thought they were going faster.Your entire body should remain relaxed - sit upright and drive by looking where you want to go and let your eyes do the steering rather than having a forced feeling to it.Be comfortable, smooth, relaxed, and remember these two: “out-in-out,” and “slow-in, fast-out.” Get those sorted and you’re already well on your way to beating your friends at the track. In the next article we’ll give some tips on picking the fast kart and much more advice on racing lines and driving techniques to improve your times.

16 drivers took part in the November segment of the Plentong Open Championships series in a mixture of Aixro, DD2, KF2, Iame and Rotax engines.

A 30 minute qualifying would be followed by 2 heats of 15 laps on track configuration C, comprising of Plentong’s longest straight followed by the tricky dog leg and slippery hairpin on the other extended track leg - for a total lap distance of 1.433km

Ang Kok Wee qualified pole in a time of 57.62 secs - 2 hundredth of a second faster than championship leader, James Lee. The pair were closely followed by Leo Lim (57.77) and Kelvin Choo (58.14).

The first Heat of 15 laps was held at 12.30pm in the sizzling heat of the Malaysian day. The weather held even though there was a fine sheet of drizzle on the track surface less than an hour earlier. Heat 1 was eventually won by Kelvin Choo, followed by Ang Kok Wee and James Lee.

Heat 2 was won by James Lee followed by Ang Kok Wee and Gary Koh.

The fastest lap of the day went to Ang Kok Wee who lapped a 57.54 secs on the 4th lap of Heat 1.