Sensational salsas: Paint with peppers, tint with tomatoes for color and flavor

FFFAMILY

September 09, 2011

The kaleidoscope of tomatoes and peppers now in season offers an almost unlimited color palette for making salsa.

And on the flavor side, the huge range of heirloom and standard tomatoes lets you go from expected to subtle to sweeter, with all kinds of tart or acidic or fruity notes to be found. Peppers range from all fruit and no heat in simple bell peppers to the incendiary habanero, which enflames a salsa called Dog's Nose - so named, some say, because yours will be wet, too, after a single tiny bite.

(There's an even hotter pepper, the Bhut Jolokia, which is also known as a "ghost" because that sounds so much better than "this might kill you if you eat it." Use it at your own risk.)

The four recipes provided here illustrate a variety of styles of uncooked salsas: simple Pico de Gallo; sweet fruitiness in Spicy Peach Salsa; unexpected peppery flavors from arugula and mustard greens in Pretty 'n' Peppery Salsa; and a daring level of fire in the Dog's Nose Salsa, which is also known by the Mayan words for dog's nose, Xni Pec (SHNEE-pec).

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Use the recipes as is, or do a little experimenting by swapping out tomatoes, peppers or other ingredients to achieve different looks or flavors. And if you're feeling really creative, use our brief list of suggestions for making your own salsa from the ground up.

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INVENT YOUR OWN

SALSA RECIPE

When developing a salsa recipe, try to achieve balance among these elements:

Color: The huge variety of heirloom tomatoes and peppers now available provide a nearly unlimited palette.

Heat: Check the table to see where chiles rank on the Scoville scale, which measures heat. You can also add heat with hot sauces or ground spices. For chile flavor without much heat, use ground spice mixes.

Sweetness: Sweet flavors can moderate hot ingredients. Sweetness can come from expected sources, such as fruit, but also unexpected sources such as balsamic or other sweet vinegars, or even from the "fruity" flavors of the peppers themselves.

Acidity: In addition to its role in balancing the other elements, acidity - from vinegar, many fruit juices, slices of whole citrus fruits and other sources - can amplify the other ingredients' flavors.

Aromatics: These will often be contributed by herbs, with cilantro a prime example. You can also use cumin, rosemary or another favorite herb, or an exotic element such as coffee.

Texture: Complementary or contrasting textures can add interest to a salsa. Corn, apples, pears and nuts are some examples of crunchy ingredients that can enhance