2001 Tobin James, Silver Reserve, Paso Robles, Refosco ($38 list, came in spring â€™04 shipment). Alcohol level: 15.3%. It was decanted 30 minutes and then spent 15 minutes in the glass before the first taste. It gives the eye a very dark purply red color. A ton or so of very ripe fruit hits the nose and tongue tip. Ripe stone fruit including plums and peaches with a strong hint of almond add the complexity with the two vineyard Paso dirt that course the palate. The finish lingers and lingers. Despite the alcohol level, it was not hot at all. We matched it with the second night of greatly modified Paula Peckâ€™s Greek Beef Stew, and rolls.

Cut meat into bite size pieces (if not stew size to begin with). Peel potatoes and cut into bite size pieces. Cut mushroom caps half or into quarters depending on size. Add all with carrots to a 4 quart Dutch oven with cover. Add tomato paste, parsley, garlic, and minced onion. Mix remained herbs and spices together and sprinkle into pot. Toss all together with hands. Pour stock into pot. Cover and bake in a 325 degree F oven for 2 Â½ hours, stirring about halfway though. Sprinkle with dry parsley leaves and serve. Recipe makes four to six servings.

We popped the 2005 tonight that came with the fall â€™07 shipment. It carried a list price of $48 and an alcohol level of 14.8%. This was quite a mouthful.

The color was as close to black as I have ever seen in a wine. This was not ominous; after five years there was still a lot of both red and black fruit on the nose and upfront. There was plenty of more fruit to complete the balance in the middle, along with just the right amount of acid and ph. The tannin was a smooth as the proverbial babyâ€™s bum. The finish rang 5 bells before we stopped counting.

We matched it with lamb leg steaks that were marinated in our mint-lemon-EVOO mayonnaise; roasted baby Yukons; and a bowlful of our own Summer Golds with chopped basil leaves and a little vinaigrette.

Popped the 2007 tonight. It came in the Spring 2010 shipment. This Refosco was dark, rich, and dense with rustic tones on the nose, tongue, and palate. The once big tannic structure was as smooth as a baby’s you know what. The finish was not harsh, but smoothly rustic.

We matched it with two inch thick lamb loin chops seasoned with salt, pepper, and granulated garlic, and grilled over charcoal and pecan chips; with rice pilaf and English peas as sides. This was our “Husband’s Day Dinner and it was fantastic.

Tobin James, James Gang Reserve, Refosco. This year's was as good as ever and continues their trend to make it smooth yet still rustic. We matched it with lamb steaks marinated in mint, lemon, and EVOO mayonnaise; and grilled over charcoal and wild cherry chips, with glazed carrots, and baked potato strips on the side. Wonderful!

A few years ago, Refosco started to make more of an appearance. Maybe the fact that it is produced in California gave it the American-market boost. Of course, there's more than one Refosco clone, and that will soon become the "cult" conversation.

When we see more Schiopettino in the U.S. it will mean that this country has arrived...

I'm unsure what to think of Tobin James' success with Refosco, Lagrein, et al. On one hand, I love those varieties and love knowing that they are available and that a California producer can do them justice, since each is a cool climate red; on the other hand, I am a purist and want the real thing, from Northeastern Italy.