Contributed Comments

Comments: I didn't feel scared of the 'loose rock' on this climb. It seems to have cleaned up well and it is a great route with long moves between awesome jugged out holds (most better than they look from the ground).

Comments: To clean after leading the whole thing, it helps to clip your rope (climber's side) into one of the midway anchor's fixed biners as a directional while being lowered. This allows you to be lowered straight down above your remaining bolts and clean them without penduluming all over the place.

Fantastic route, probably the best I have done at Rumney. Haven't done Crusher yet though so we'll see!

Comments: nuts, double set of c3s and single set regular cams up to #2 will sew it up. I'd say PG since the beginning of the traverse out of the corner at the start felt a little hairy and the finishing jug haul did too, but the 5.9 and 5.10 moves you can have a bunch of (small) gear at your face if you want...

Comments: What an awesome route! Steep jugs start things off, and the delicious positive finger locks got me hooting and hollering after the tough (but short) thin hands section. Good active rests can be found on hand jams and locks for the middle part of the route, better use em cuz the bouldery top is physical and committing.

Gear is there for the whole route, some sections the rock sounded a bit hollow--not having taken many falls on cams in schist I wasn't sure how trustworthy some of the placements ... more >>

Comments: Rose crack's bolts need to go/be moved. The positioning is terrible. I couldn't even imagine reaching them while on lead, and it seems like they'd expose a seconding climber to a weird swing during the topout.

Led the thorn yesterday and I agree that the bolt anchor took some spice out of the top out. I had already hung extended slings on the bolts from working the route on TR, so it was easy to clip mid top out. I felt that without preplaced slings you still have to pretty much top out the rou... more >>

Comments: So so sick. I found the hardest individual moves closest to the deck, the traverse didn't feel bad.

With a 70m, link the pitches like Barber did on the FA! Or at least belay your second up and give pitch 2 a go...it adds another 30-40 ft of fun climbing at 5.10. In its current state it is rough, rugged and raw with a hard to read crux off the belay, much lichen/moss and just a touch of choss to keep things interesting.

You can rap off the top with a 70 to the ground, probably could lower off ... more >>

Comments: led this the morning after rain. The bottom 10 feet of the climb were soaking wet but easily aided on nuts/c3s. There might be a cam placement above the last bolt but I'd already placed the one I wanted to use. So the top was a little spicy, especially when I grabbed a huge rotten log to top out on and almost pulled it down. Great climb, fun and technical stemming.

Comments: this climb would fit right in at Vedauwoo (where it would get a 5.8... ;) ). Might be worth taping up for this one if you are questioning your jamming skills. Great jams are all there, and nothing too flaring even, but the rock is pretty rough compared to other 11worth hand cracks.

Gear beta: Can be done with a standard rack of nuts and cams to #3 (save your #2 for just after the crux to prevent decking out on the ledge below it, and a #1 for the finishing hand crac... more >>

Comments: Great climb, good gear the whole way (I took the ride off the slopers at the top on a solid bd .4 in a horizontal after getting tunnel vision and pumping out). This was the first 11 I ever led on gear and I am super glad I hopped on it!!

Comments: I didn't climb this...the guidebook I had hyped it up and I looked at it and was actually kind of grossed out and decided to climb raging waters instead. Thankfully there was an older dude there to tell me to 'go for it' since I'd never hopped on a 5.11 trad route before. This might well be a fun route though, diminished by the other awesome climbs right next to it

Comments: Lieback if you dare. My partner, an experienced crack climber and trad leader, popped out of the crux due to the super-polished nature of the left side of the crack. Lots of feet on both faces.