If I remember correctly, most of the metal I removed was thin compared to the metal higher up that extends back to the lugs. That thin metal would stabilize the lugs during extraction when the bolt is rotating and dragging against the lug. I am guessing (and you might say betting) that there more than enough material left to handle the forces generated by the 7.62x25 cartridge.

The recoil forces are alot less than what the original trunnion was designed for. I had to cut the recoil spring, make a weaker hammer spring and modify the hammer face just so the action would cycle reliably. Still, I should make a note to magniflux the lugs after the first 1000 rounds or so to check for cracks.

If I remember correctly, most of the metal I removed was thin compared to the metal higher up that extends back to the lugs. That thin metal would stabilize the lugs during extraction when the bolt is rotating and dragging against the lug. I am guessing (and you might say betting) that there more than enough material left to handle the forces generated by the 7.62x25 cartridge.

The recoil forces are alot less than what the original trunnion was designed for. I had to cut the recoil spring, make a weaker hammer spring and modify the hammer face just so the action would cycle reliably. Still, I should make a note to magniflux the lugs after the first 1000 rounds or so to check for cracks.

Thanks for the compliments guys.

I WOULD KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON IT. I HOPE IT WOKS OUT FOR YOU. A BULGED YUGO TRUNION MIGHT HAVE BEEN A BETTER CHOICE AS ITS THICKER IN THAT AREA.

I just now stumbled across your build thread - WOW Nicely done - great job on your write-up & pics too. You are one of the very few who's been able to get a gas-op in x25 going, and a pistol at that. Very impressive build, especialy the way you compacted the magwell & trunnion together. Thanks for posting it!

I have the pistol taken apart to make a new receiver and clean up some earlier mistakes. I took the opportunity to take photos of the modifications made to the bolt carrier, trigger group and the custom trigger guard.

Modifications were made to the bolt carrier and hammer to reduce the force required to push the hammer back to the recocked position. The rear "nose" on the bolt carrier was extended to be just shorter than the firing pin position in the locked position. The hammer face was extended and recontoured to be as long as possible without interferring with the disconnector catching the hammer. The photos show the mods compared to stock pieces.

The modifications allowed the bolt carrier to push the hammer back furthur using the "nose" of the bolt carrier and the face of the hammer. It gives it more leverage for a longer time. Once the "nose" can no longer push on the hammer, the bottom of the bolt carrier begins to push on the hammer, but with less leverage. With this mod the hammer is nearly recocked by the time the bottom of the carrier starts to push on it. It reduces the force needed.

I stated in an earler posting that the hammer spring was made in the stock configuration from 0.045 music wire. It was actually made with only one leg as the photo shows. I had to add another spring to help reset the trigger. It is located on the right side of the trigger group and presses against the receiver to help push the right leg of the trigger back down. I haven't had any misfires with the lighter hammer strike.

The last photo shows the trigger guard I made. It was made to move the mag release forward to the new location. The square block of steel was made ti fill the gap and give the mag release spring something to press against. Two short button head allen screws were used to hold it in place. A selector stop plate was also made in a longer size.