F 45 sliding to the right at high speed

For my last flights, I was on a large meadow, and i could fly fast forward for long distances.
I noticed that the faster the helicopter goes, the more it has a tendancy to slide to the right (I have to correct his trajectory with left aileron).
It's the same with my 2 F45's.
I am new in helicopters (only about 4 months with coaxes and 1 month with the F45), so i don't know if this behaviour is normal or not.

Maybe someone can enlighten me, thanks !

Roland

Edit : After a little brainstorming I suspect this could comme from the fact the heli has a fixed pitch and the rotor turns clockwise, so the blade coming from the back to the front (on the left side of the heli) has more lift (speed of the blade and of the heli adding on the left side and substractiong on the right side) ??

Hello F45 friends!
i´m glad ifound this forum, so much information...
I got my F645 ( european F45 ) for a week now and made some changes:
First i put a washer under the swashplate to reduce the axial space of the rotor axle.
Then i placed heatsinks on the motors.
After i read of broken gyros, i put a big drop of hotglue around it to prevent it gets broken.
Today, after the mainmotor still gets very hot, i put a ventinghole into the canopy and covered it with mesh of stainless steel. This mod is very efectife, the mainmotor stays very much cooler after this.
The next mod i plan is to change both of the motors to brushless with BLheli controller for the tailmotor.

Hinnerk, thank you for posting those pictures, very helpful. I plan to use/make several of those mod's myself. Could you explain what effect the washer under the swashplate has on the F45?

Hello F45 friends!
i´m glad ifound this forum, so much information...
I got my F645 ( european F45 ) for a week now and made some changes:
First i put a washer under the swashplate to reduce the axial space of the rotor axle.
Then i placed heatsinks on the motors.
After i read of broken gyros, i put a big drop of hotglue around it to prevent it gets broken.
Today, after the mainmotor still gets very hot, i put a ventinghole into the canopy and covered it with mesh of stainless steel. This mod is very efectife, the mainmotor stays very much cooler after this.
The next mod i plan is to change both of the motors to brushless with BLheli controller for the tailmotor.

Great job on canopy mod. Looks like it was done by a Pro. Brushless motors get hot to not as hot but they get hot. The ESC's get plenty warm also So any ventilation through there has got to help. The Dynam GY 192 is an economical head lock Gyro The Esky Telebee gyro is way to expensive and I didn't notice any difference. I wish they sold an ARF version of the MJX F45 then we could build them the way we want and maybe save a little. Take a look at the design of the Funcopter sometime.

Great job on canopy mod. Looks like it was done by a Pro. Brushless motors get hot to not as hot but they get hot. The ESC's get plenty warm also So any ventilation through there has got to help. The Dynam GY 192 is an economical head lock Gyro The Esky Telebee gyro is way to expensive and I didn't notice any difference. I wish they sold an ARF version of the MJX F45 then we could build them the way we want and maybe save a little. Take a look at the design of the Funcopter sometime.

That would be cool. Or, we could design or own kit so every beginner that wants to can build his own. I've been trying to do this for quite sometime, but doesn't seem like a very popular idea so it's hard to find support.

Hello F45 friends!
i´m glad ifound this forum, so much information...
I got my F645 ( european F45 ) for a week now and made some changes:
First i put a washer under the swashplate to reduce the axial space of the rotor axle.
Then i placed heatsinks on the motors.
After i read of broken gyros, i put a big drop of hotglue around it to prevent it gets broken.
Today, after the mainmotor still gets very hot, i put a ventinghole into the canopy and covered it with mesh of stainless steel. This mod is very efectife, the mainmotor stays very much cooler after this.
The next mod i plan is to change both of the motors to brushless with BLheli controller for the tail motor.

one thing I might mention is with your main motor heatsink, rotate it 180 degrees so it's on the back of the motor. You will need to bend the middle two fins inwards a little to make it fit, but I find that it works a lot better this way. My motor is warm rather than hot to the touch just by doing this.

I wish they sold an ARF version of the MJX F45 then we could build them the way we want and maybe save a little.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darsh

That would be cool. Or, we could design or own kit so every beginner that wants to can build his own. I've been trying to do this for quite sometime, but doesn't seem like a very popular idea so it's hard to find support.

I think I agree with you guys. Since my tail motor blew I have ordered another stock tail but I'm trying to figure out where to go next. I really like the 11v BL mod that many are doing on here but now I'm wondering if I should be converting my tail motor to brushless? Then my next thought is, how can I reduce weight at the same time? I would imagine a carbon fibre main body would be much lighter. Then what about the main shaft and the swash and so on and so forth and then BOOM - my head explodes!

Well, i've been entertaining for a split second the idea of installing a belt driven tail once the stock brush tail wears out, but the position of the elevator servo pretty much prevents this. I've taken some measures: main shaft is 6mm thick, and tail is 10mm. Now, while an esky king bee 3 uses a 10mm tail, a 6mm main shaft is unheard of, afaik, so i have no idea where to get the belt pulley. Or a better head for that matter, because i think that placing the swash under the main blades (the opposite as it is now) would increase responsiveness enough to make things interesting, but still maintain a decent stability.

That would be cool. Or, we could design or own kit so every beginner that wants to can build his own. I've been trying to do this for quite sometime, but doesn't seem like a very popular idea so it's hard to find support.

I'm with you. If we were forced to build our own Helicopter we would better understand what was going on with the mechanics of the thing. I'm thinking of anyone I teach how to fly installing a Co-pilot system on it. The money saved in parts is well worth it. and low end ones are becoming more affordable. I couldn't believe what a difference it does to a 6 ch machine let go of the sticks and just sit there and hovers. The thing I fly is a combo of three different Heli's all had their pluses and negatives I have always liked the looks and design of the Funcopter but it is way over priced. Love the direct drive, no gear on main motor, up-gradable to 6 ch .

Jesus, just got back from the field after flying my new heli for the 3rd time (and crashing it to the ground) and got the exact same problem, the little black thingy was broken by the touch of a finger.
Is it possible to buy this part only and solder it to the PCB or must I buy a full PCB?

What? When I first read read that I thought, really? Jesus flew your helicopter . . . 3 times ?

servo arm mods

I purchased the f45 because of this forum. It's definitely a good buy but i found out that moving the servo arms to outer point doesn't do much. It puts stress on the servos and the factory settings of the arms max it out before binding up the swash. This heli will dance forward backward side to side at full 100%. It needs a big area to open 'er up in. She slides a bit but if it wasn't challenging, it would be be a bore. Adjust the arms to max if you think it needs but listen to the stress on the servos. I LOVE THIS HELI.