Kevin..... first of all thank you for the wonderful you tube videos you are my inspiration to try some re-modelling I would have felt was out of my depth.

I have a dilemma and i think you may be able to help a fellow 17' Boler owner. I just bought a 17' unit an it has no grey water tank and i am trying to get one, i think D & M Plastics in Edmonton may have what i am looking for, but they need the dimensions to be sure. I sent them the sketch from the manual but it has no dimensions. This is the one they think may fit. RV Fresh Water Tanks & Waste Holding Tanks - D&M Plastics Inc. RBW1513

I know you have removed yours and it still maybe out, I wonder if you can confirm that this is the tank ?

My 90 degree concerns aren't with joining pieces of foam but actually encapsulating a single piece of foam with six faces (2 sides and 4 edges). I will read the article and see what I can get from it.

It sounds like two layers of cloth will do for this.

Ok, so you want to encase a solid sheet or panel of foam. I would just lay a thin sheets of glass cloth around it with butted joints. Put a second layer of thin cloth on with the butt joints at different spots--so no weak points. Do not overlap--too much work to get that flat later. So you butt the joints and let a second layer cover the butt joint. Throw a couple layers of lightweight fairing material and sand flat. Build up any low spots as necessary. Sand and repeat a few times and you can make any shape you like.

If you need it lighter, you can do one layer but you will need to bevel the joint and bond something across there to tie it together, or overlap by the amount of the bevel. It doesn't need to be perfect you can fix high or low spots.

if you don't mind paying the price, two layers of carbon fiber and a two layer of carbon veil--one layer of veil on the inside for bonding, and a layer of veil on the outside when sanding to protect the cloth underneath. That would produce a very light assembly.

Kevin, I've been watching your videos and learning. Excellent work - thank you for taking the trouble to share your expertise!

I'm working on a Scamp 13 project. Due to its relatively low roof height I want to cover the ceiling with something soft and low profile. I really like the idea of the vinyl over foam you demonstrated. I believe you refer to the foam as "eco foam". Would you mind sharing what type of foam it is (neoprene, etc)?
Thanks, Steve

Just hibernating over the winter so not much progress. Getting back at it as soon as the weather warms. It may take a while to get the videos together as I may hold off on putting them together until the work is complete.

Kevin, good to hear from you. I must share with you that - through your videos - you have become my virtual FG mentor.

I'm currently glassing in all of the unwanted holes and adding some structural support to the roof of our Scamp.

My plan for the wall covering is to blatantly steal your vinyl upholstery over foam approach. I'll be watching closely for your next post - and for any more ideas I can steal (pardon me - I meant to say, draw inspiration from!).

I'd like to echo what Angela said! I just finished fiberglassing in some wood base plates on the ceiling and floor, bolted braces to the plates and then bolted a weight-bearing column to the braces. At long last, my roof is level again on the passenger/door side, my door sag is virtually gone, and the improved interior height on the once sagging side is noticeable. I owe it all to your videos Kevin. I have never worked with fiberglass on this scale and though it's not pretty (luckily it will be covered) it is rock solid and better than I could have ever hoped for. Many thanks again.

Steve,
We can let our vigilant mods here decide! But this is being done in Kevin's honor to be sure ... if it weren't for his tutorial video, I would likely still be wondering how to put a weight bearing column into my Play Pac w/o screwing into the fiberglass!

Without getting too detailed (which will all go into the Play Pac Renovation thread I will post once I am done), I glassed a fairly large piece of 1"x6" pine (about 2 feet long) to the ceiling and an about 1' x 1' square of 1" pine on the floor for a baseplate. I used 2x3" instead of 2x4 to save on weight - but where I goofed up is the braces that are screwed to the glassed in wood are made for 2x4s. So i will hack the excess 'flaps' on the braces that stick out beyond the edge of the 2x3s, bend them toward the 2x3s and screw that flap to the 2x3 to actually keep them locked in place. So that issue kind of works itself out.

I jacked up the ceiling with an additional brace until it was level and got the 2x3s into place and screwed them in. I was quite surprised it all worked out. the roof was level when i went outside and checked, and the real test was that the sagging 2x4 braces on the roof were now perfectly level. The weight was just too much after all this time so the column seems to have worked. I also took a shot of the door before and after and the mount of light coming through before and after was substantial. Since the door seal is uneven and needs replacing and the hinge is also sagging and needs to be re-riveted, i was pretty surprised at how dramatic a difference that column makes. Of course one half of the camper has zero interior structural support and that half also has a big hole in it - a door! SO i can now see why some kind of support on each side is needed (at least on a 40 year old camper!). The column goes through the bench but i plan to recut the bench lid and the portion under the stove will be turned into a small extra cabinet which will also add some extra support when its all tied together. Will finish with a headliner of some kind to hide all the mess.

I knows probably sounds clear as mud, but in my nutty brain - there is a plan! Mods please feel free to move this or start my reno thread or leave in place. I hope this of some use and thanks again to Kevin for getting me this far!

photos (poor quality using my phone camera): 1) ceiling wood glassed in with 2x3 supports and braces. 2) supports will be bolted to stove cabinet and are braced below inside the bench storage area to glassed in wood block. 3) glassed in wood block on floor (inside bench) before support install. 4) door with light coming through prior to support install 5) door after support install

I should be getting back at the project in the next week or so if the weather warms up. I did have some computer problems and will have to sift through and reorganize all my raw video footage and then figure out where I left off. It may take some time to get the videos up and running again.

As I didn't have a deadline for completion of the trailer I have tended to procrastinate. Hopefully will be able to go gung-ho at it and have the majority completed by the first part of June. If I were to start another project I would want to put the trailer inside a large heated garage so I'd be able to work on it during the winter months.

Although I'm a new member, and have just bought my first trailer - a 17' Boler - this summer, I've been looking through this site for the last several months.

My plan is to camp and enjoy my trailer 'as-is' (actually it's in great shape), and in a year or two, I'll completely gut it and update it with new plumbing, wiring, insulation etc.

My husband and I are novices, and I'd have to say I know my way around tools and constuction a little better than he does. He's really taken with our new trailer, ans we are both willing and ready - once we've done all our research - to tackle our project.

Somehow, I landed on your YouTube video posts of the 17' restoration. I've been really impressed with the quality and details of your videos.

I'd like more information about your plans for the insulation of the 17' Boler. Have you finished that part of your project yet? If so, how did it turn out? Will you be posting more videos? Please keep them coming!!! You're our inspiration!