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Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

Amazing. I'm sitting here talking to my wife about having just posted this question. Within five minutes, 11 views and two replies. I'm sold on this web site. It's like having two brains. Just put in a question and you all have the answers. Thanks tons.

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

I use deck screws and exterior carpenter glue. 2" ones at the ends of the cleats because they can go into the sides and 1 1/4" ones in the middle so they don't go through. Drill and countersink the ones on the ends at least (and all if you can) so they don't split. Don't screw the end ones in too tight.

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

I suggest beveled cleats. The top slopes down away from the box for water runoff. The bottom slopes up towards the box for a firm finger grip. Same cutting time on the table saw, just set the blade for preferred angle.

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

We just use a staple gun 1 1/2 in staples. No glue and they take no time to place on. No problem with them pulling out or anything and we move um a bit with hive movers. They are cleats...try not to make it complicated. Oh...we run them even with the tops, but we run migratory lids. If you are using telescoping lids make sure your cleats are down far enough so the lid slides on all the way.

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

Same as Alpha. Right on top the cleat protects the flimsy rabbet, and allows the top box to be tipped up quickly without lifting or sliding.Very important when placing patties .

But we do run a bead of glue , and we use 2 inch staples and pound them over on the inside. It will blow out a bit of wood sometimes, but I feel the extra holding power is worth it. We mostly use boom loaders to lift our hives and the cleats never come off doing it this way.

When we hand loaded hives, I liked the cleats the way Odfrank described.
But with the top of the cleat beveled, when you try to tip up the top box,down she goes!!

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

Thirty plus years ago I installed my cleats with nails or T-nails, both of which I had some problems with them backing out due to wood swelling and shrinkage. Now I use glue and screws. I install them low right above the handhold so that I can sink my fingers deep and also allow for T/scoping covers.

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

I also like the cleat flush with the top of the super to protect the weakest part of a super.

Here are my steps:
1. Run a heavy glue bead on the solid cleat.
2. Hold the solid cleat in place with two pipe vises.
3 Pre-drill through the top two lock corner joints using a 1/8" drill. Do not drill into the end grain of the super's side.
4. Place an 8d, 2.5", galvanized nail in the drill hole and hammer it in flush.
You will need a total of 8 of the 8d nails.
5. Hammer in three 6d nails in the lower half of the cleat so that they do not pierce the frame rest. Clinch the 6d nails

(Some people use ring shank nails to stop the nails from backing out.)

Good luck,
Ernie

Last edited by BEES4U; 01-13-2011 at 05:22 AM.
Reason: hit the enter key

Re: Attaching Cleats to Boxes for Handles

Thank you for the responses. I'm going to make a few boxes with cleats this weekend. I started using my brad nailer to hold things in place for the glue to dry or to allow me to nail or screw things together right away. Box of 5000 brad nails are about the same price as one good clamp. I might glue the cleat on and brad nail in place then put the screws in as you all suggested.

I also like the idea someone had about using caulk. I'll give that a try as well. Caulk seems to work well when I repaired the long cracks on a couple of my brood boxes had. I just used the cheap $2 latex painters stuff. The cracks were on the surface and I just did not want water to get into the crack. Paint would not fill it up.