My rocker panels are needing to be replaced and I was thinking of just putting some metal tube/bar there instead of a rocker panel. My question is if I wish for it to be used as a rock slider, do I need to support it with the uni-frame rail? Or should the bar/slider be fine on by itself since it is a unibody? I've seen different sliders that appear to be both ways. Also, what thickness of metal should I use?

3/16" or 1/4" thick steel. 2x4 will just replace the stock rocker, 2x6 will stick out a bit. If you use them hard at all, you should brace them the the unibody "frame rails". Tieing them into the A pillar is also not a bad idea (see EricsXJ writeup).

My rocker panels are needing to be replaced and I was thinking of just putting some metal tube/bar there instead of a rocker panel. My question is if I wish for it to be used as a rock slider, do I need to support it with the uni-frame rail? Or should the bar/slider be fine on by itself since it is a unibody? I've seen different sliders that appear to be both ways. Also, what thickness of metal should I use?

That's the first time I've seen my jibber jabber in a signature. - Don the Legend

OP
If there is no/rotted rocker left, 2x6 replacement is fairly easy and will give you plenty of pivot clearance that will save your doors and glass in tight spots slipping past trees and rocks. This should cost you less than 100 in metal plus fabbing time. I didn't tie into the unibody frame rail, and I've used them aggressively, but it is on my list to do after I finish plating my frame rails. It can tilt up preventing your doors from opening if you don't brace them.

Alright, thanks guys. I bookmarked ericxj's page for future reference. I really like how he did his. Rugsucka- do you have a thread of your rock slider build? I searched for it but was unable to find anything. Theredmonster- My rockerpanels are almost gone. I'm not really super hyped about buying new rockerpanels and then putting rock sliders over them. I think that would just be a waste of money when I can upgrade doing it cheaper.

I didn't do a thread on here, but I'll post some pictures. I welded the entire top, around the ends and along the entire pinch seam after I pounded it over the bottom. I'll probably do a mini boat side to the frame rail when I get around to it. As is it is strong enough for most trails, but there's room for improvement if the stupid factor increases. (and that always seems to happen, since it's not a DD anymore)

-Cut out 1/8" below the sill, cut up on the outside of the pinch seam to leave the double layer of metal where the rocker meets the floor for more meat to weld to, taper the ends of 2x6 box tubing if you want to, or just cap it.
-I left a slight tip down to shed water from the doors, and basically welded it flush with the front and rear wheel wells.

So, what I'm seeing is you cut the rockers out just below the sill and just outboard of the pinch seam. Fit the 2x6 into this "pocket" and pound the pinch weld to "wrap" the bottom inboard side of the 2x - is that right? I've read it's a good idea to connect the dots with stitch welds across the entirety of the sill and p/w instead of one solid long bead - this is in order to avoid overheating the thinner metal getting welded to the thicker.

As for tieing in kickers to the unirail do you guys think it's best to stay as close to the A,B,C pillars as possible with the kickers?

So, what I'm seeing is you cut the rockers out just below the sill and just outboard of the pinch seam. Fit the 2x6 into this "pocket" and pound the pinch weld to "wrap" the bottom inboard side of the 2x - is that right? I've read it's a good idea to connect the dots with stitch welds across the entirety of the sill and p/w instead of one solid long bead - this is in order to avoid overheating the thinner metal getting welded to the thicker.

As for tieing in kickers to the unirail do you guys think it's best to stay as close to the A,B,C pillars as possible with the kickers?

I did what you said there. Just stitch welded them in. As far as the legs, I put one as far as I could front and as far as I could back and one somewhere close to the middle. I need to put them to the test, though.

rugsucka- did you tie it into the A,B, or C pillars at all? Ericxj's build seemed to have a piece of metal running alongside of the a pillar. It appears you did nothing like that, but just welded around the edges of the slider. Is that holding up for you very well?
ibjeepin- That last photo you posted, just curious, where at on the slider did you hit it at? The photo is just in close, so it's hard to tell what section that would be..

I did not tie into the pillars. I did 1" strings until I had a complete bead top and bottom, around the front etc. The bottom was pounded over 1/2" or so then also welded to the bottom of the 2x6. I don't doubt that I could slam down into the outside edge and pivot it up IF the conditions were right. Frankly the bead on the bottom is not perfect - I bought my gas mig welder 2 days before I did this project and out of position sucked. I've done plenty of stick welding so that was a good start.

I didn't cut my doors, so plating up to the pillars wasn't an easily accomplished modification or built into the 2 day schedule I allowed myself.

I plan on making tube fenders that tie into the front and rear and eventually the rockers will also be a platform for a cage. Until then I hope I don't fark them up like ibejeepin, but I also think I'm tied in a bit better than his original install. I didn't want a snag point with little legs out to the frame rail, but could pay the price as a result.

The rockers have held up well, I've landed on them from a few falls, and used them to pivot around rocks and a few trees. It's a worth while project, and doesn't take a pile of time or $$$ to do if you have a welder at your disposal.

Thanks ibejeepin, that makes sense now. Hopefully I won't ever get into a situation like that.

rugsucka- Alright. I'm still debating on if I should tie it in or not. Like you, I don't want the legs sticking out. And I really don't want it to go through the floor like ibejeapin did. This is still my daily driver and I don't think I will be hitting huge rocks. I just want something a bit stronger to be there in case I need it. And the fact that this would be a nice replacement to my rusted rocker panels. Just out of curiosity, is your cage gonna be external?

Another thing I was thinking, as it is, water seems comes down somewhere and get into the rocker panels. That would be why the drain holes are there(or at least I assume they are drain holes). Have either of you noticed problems with water getting behind your welds? I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but just thought I'd ask.