In the 1930s Nazi sympathizers built a refuge in the Pacific Palisades. Herr Schmidt, Winona and Norman Stephens, and their followers occupied a self-contained stronghold in what is now Rustic Canyon between Sullivan Ridge and Will Rodgers State Park. Murphy Ranch was designed to serve as a hold out for fans of the Third Reich waiting for America to fall to the Nazis. Instead, the ranch was raided by U.S. authorities and closed in 1941. The abandoned buildings were transformed into an artists’ colony in the 60s and 70s, but were abandoned after the Mandeville Canyon Fire in 1978. Today the grounds of Murphy Ranch are uninhabited, dilapidated, and covered in graffiti. While much of the history is lost, several structures remain, along with long cement staircases that still link Murphy Ranch to Sullivan Ridge Fire Road, providing a 3.85-mile hike with 325 feet of elevation gain.

Update: LA’s Department of Recreation and Parks demolished the ruins of Murphy Ranch in the spring of 2016.

Looking up Rustic Canyon

This hike begins at the residential end of Sullivan Ridge Fire Road, but the ruins may also be reached by hiking up Rustic Canyon from Will Rogers State Historic Park. From the street parking at the intersection of Capri Drive and Casale Road, begin walking up Sullivan Ridge Fire Road toward a gate 0.4 miles from the start at the entrance of Topanga State Park. To the west there is a partial ocean view over the Pacific palisades. The view to the north up Rustic Canyon continues to improve as you hike another 2/3 of a mile up the wide paved fire road.

Looking down the stairs into Rustic Canyon

A gap in the chain link fence on the left side of the road leads to the top of an endless-looking staircase heading down the steep wall of the canyon. Turn left here and begin the dizzying descent to Murphy Ranch. (If you miss this set of stairs, there will be another staircase 0.15 miles up the road alongside an abandoned water tower.)

Looking up the stairs

The narrow concrete steps drop 200 feet over 0.1 miles down a lush slope that was once terraced and irrigated to harvest nut, fruit, and olive trees for the reclusive Nazis. When the string of 500+ steps finally comes to an end, turn left and follow the wide road down to the bottom of Rustic Canyon. The road turns up the canyon, passing through coast live oaks and sycamores that hide the crumbling ruins of Murphy Ranch.

A third of a mile from the bottom of the stairs, you will reach a large concrete building covered in spray paint. Step inside this haunting hollow structure that once housed a robust diesel generator and fuel tank.

The graffiti-covered power building

Around the power building there are raised gardens, and more concrete steps, all remnants of the $4 million invested in Murphy Ranch by Winona and Norman Stephens. The owners were convinced by their Nazi pal Herr Schmidt that when Europe inevitably fell to Germany, America would be reduced to anarchy, and the National Socialist Party would need a self-sustaining stronghold in the mountains outside Los Angeles to survive the fall and plot the American takeover. History proved to be a bit different. Authorities monitoring the ranch raided the facility shortly after the bombs fell on Pearl Harbor, arresting Schmidt and others for espionage. A radio capable of communicating with Germany may have been confiscated as well. Many of the specifics of this blight on Los Angeles history have been lost to time, but the ruins remain for hikers to explore.

Continue north up the road to a collapsed steel structure that served as a machine shed and garage. This is the last major building from the ranch. The Stephens had commissioned famed African-American architect Paul Williams (who designed the homestead now in ruins in Solstice Canyon) to build a four-story mansion within the canyon, but those plans were never executed. Elements of the bizarre retreat that were built have been left to decay by the Los Angeles Department of Parks and Recreation.

Beyond the machine shed, a single track continues up the canyon toward Camp Josepho. A third of a mile up, there is a connection trail heading west for 3/4 of a mile up to the Backbone Trail in Will Rogers State Park. This trail is useful for those hiking into Rustic Canyon from Will Rogers State Park, and wanting to form a look through the canyon. Beyond this junction, there is a meeting with a paved road heading up to Sullivan Ridge Fire Road. This is an alternative return route to the one described below.

The collapsed machine shed and garage

To leave Rustic Canyon, return to the power building and begin hiking up the steps to the right. After a short climb, the stairs reach the road coming down from Sullivan Ridge Fire Road. Turn left and ascend 180 feet over 0.4 miles. The road crosses a grove of sycamores and passes an immense water tank before reaching a stone gate that was once the grand entrance to Murphy Ranch. Step through the crumbling stone wall alongside the gate to return to Sullivan Ridge Fire Road.

Not far below the tank, there is a split in the road with another old paved track coming up from Rustic Canyon north of the ruins. To hike up this trail instead, continue up the canyon past the machine shed for 0.41 miles on Rustic Canyon Trail, a little-used single track that follows the creek past a few more old foundations through a dense woods. The trail passes a large white barn and a junction with a trail heading up to the Backbone Trail, before coming to the bottom of the old paved road. To the left, a single track continues up the canyon for 0.37 miles over a few creek crossings before coming to an end at Camp Josepho. The wide paved road turns to the right and climbs out of the canyon, meeting the other road coming up from Murphy Ranch before reaching Sullivan Ridge Fire Road.

The gate to Murphy Ranch

Turn right on Sullivan Ridge Fire Road and hike 1.6 miles back down Sullivan Ridge Fire Road to return to the start for a 3.85-mile lollipop loop with 325 feet of elevation between the low and high points of the trek. Alternatively, you can stretch the hike to 4.25 by hiking north a bit farther up the fire road to a junction with a single-track that travels along the top of Sullivan Ridge. Turn right and take the ridge-top trail back to the start. Sullivan Ridge continues north for several miles, eventually connecting with Mulholland Drive to allow extended hikes in the Big Wild of the Santa Monica Mountains.

Before its demise, Murphy Ranch was said to attract dozens of local sympathizers who performed military drills during weekend gatherings. Today you can walk the grounds with less devious intentions, exploring this beautiful canyon with an ugly past. No fee or permit is required to visit Murphy Ranch from Sullivan Ridge Fire Road.

Update: After hikers discovered that fences were installed around the ruins, Los Angeles Magazine reports that LA’s Department of Recreation and Parks has temporarily closed the area to demolish the ruins of Murphy Ranch, which will be completed on February 23, 2016. It appears that for safety reasons, the Murphy Ranch ruins will be destroyed.

To get to the trailhead: From Sunset Boulevard, 3 miles west of the 405, turn north at the light onto Capri Drive. After 1/3 mile continue through the traffic circle, remaining on Capri Drive for another 1/3 mile until it comes to and end at Casale Road. Sullivan Ridge Fire road begins to the left. Find street parking to the right or on an adjacent road.

Is this trail actually inside either of the state parks? Or is it just near to them, and accessible from them? The reason I ask is that we want to do this hike with our dog, but state parks don’t allow dogs on their trails. Thank you.

I did the hike a year ago with my dog. Tons of fun. Took him off leash after we were inside the gates bc the fire road was heavily trafficed with bike riders going pretty fast. Lots to explore and its definitely creepy at certain points. The stair cases turn into a massive butt workout. Fun place. Bring lots of water.

I’ve taken dogs a few times, and once you get past the fire road nobody will know they are there. Watch out for the wildlife and other off-leash dogs though. Also, on the fire roads tons of people have dogs, so while I don’t know if they are allowed nobody seems to mind.

you should never take your dog off leash in national/state parks! this is not only inconsiderate but unlawful and too bad you weren’t cited for it ($500 per incident). People like you who also don’t clean after their pets is what makes hiking on those trails so disgusting. shame on you!

Some people are messier than animals. Whether you bring along Fido or not you should always leave a place in better condition than when you found it. Pack it in, pack it out! Dogs should only be allowed off lead when they are obedient and listen to their owners for the safety and enjoyment of other hikers, as well as the dog’s safety. There are a lot of rattlers in the area, as well as bobcat, coyotes and even puma.

I hate off leash dogs. Some people with big dogs just let them run up to people, and you’re started, you’re nervous that it’s a coyote…and you never know if it’s friendly. Off leash dog owners are selfish idiots with their heads up their asses.

That’s a good question. The long answer is that the ruins are owned by the City of Los Angeles. The city would like to donate the land to the state to be incorporated into Topanga State Park, but the state won’t accept the land until the old buildings are demolished. So… Dogs are permitted on Sullivan Ridge Fire Road, and on the city property dogs might be OK, but dogs and bikes are not allowed on the trails between the road and the ruins in Topanga State Park, and they are not allowed on the Will Rogers trails either.

I’ve never had trouble with my dogs in Will Rogers, and I see TONS of people with other dogs. Just avoid the side trail that tips over into the Topanga area and you’re fine–there are even signs that say “dogs allowed on leash” all over the main park.

I haven’t tried this hike yet, but look forward to bringing my dogs, and just being smart about on vs. off leash.

I did this walk before and loved it. I never knew this existed. Very interesting history. I love doing stairwalks so much that I blog about the walks. You can check out this site on http://www.stairwalkinginla.wordpress.com. Go to Giant Steps walk #42 to read about this stairwalk.

[…] Gagne How about a hike to the ruins of a compound built by Nazi sympathizers? http://www.hikespeak.com/trails/… pretty untraditionalThis answer .Please specify the necessary improvements. Edit Link Text […]

Went today, was a great hike… the stairs up are a killer though!Dogs there, lots of them, on and off leash. No other animals just the usual birds, lizards, insects, etc.I highly recommend it… bring a snack or picnic and LOTS of water.

The southern Pacific rattlesnake is found throughout the Santa Monica Mountains, including this area. Dogs should be strictly monitored as a bite can be fatal to your pet, dependent on the venom load received as well as how fast you are successful in seeking medical attention.

Pay close attention to your surroundings, look where you hike, rest and picnic. Rattlesnakes mean no harm but will defend themselves if threatened. Meanwhile, enjoy this beautiful area but know you are in a wild area and home to countless other fascinating critters, too.

I visit Pacific Palisades all the time and has never seen this place, can some please provide me directions from long beach to Los Angeles Rustic Canyon’s Nazi Ruins “Murphy Ranch” in the Santa Monica MountainsThanks

Please respect the area around the Murphy Ranch and report anyone who is tagging or vandalizing the area to LAPD or local security patrol officers immediately. This a great jewel in the Santa Monica Mountains that is starting to be over-run by vandalism.

I went today (April 8, 2014) and everything from the stairs was blocked off with NEW barbed wire. But the steps I was traveling down were wooden, not concrete. I realize now that I might have taken a wrong path.

This is a very cool and unusual hike. We have done it twice in the past few months. The bizarre nature of the hike makes it fun and a little bit eerie.

The first time we visited, we were able to explore the various areas and go inside the buildings. The graffiti, while loud and crazy, actually adds a neat dimension to the buildings.

However, the second time we went (May 2014), there was a huge fence installed all around the main building with no trespassing signs. The graffiti had been painted over with tan paint. The fence restricted access to the coolest part of the hike, which was disappointing. Keep in mind this fence may still be there on your visit, and it can be a let-down.

Still a cool hike regardless, but was a neater hike without the fence.

[…] Murphy Ranch was built in the Pacific Palisades in the 1930s by a group of Nazi-sympathizers, but the community of homes created as a refuge for individuals hoping for a German takeover of the U.S. during WWII was raided and shut down in 1941.[…]

Hikers BEWARE! Disclaimer… I am a very conscious hiker. I do not litter, go off trails etc… a real leave no trace kind of girl. I received THREE yes THREE trespassing tickets for OBSERVING the power building. I was not in it or on it and neither were the minors that were with me. We were taking photographs and enjoying the day. There are NO posted signs saying no trespassing that are visible from the entry side, but that didn’t stop the rangers from giving me a ticket for each person in my party. Once the rangers left I hiked around to the other side of the building and saw ONE no trespassing sign that was so heavily covered in graffiti all you could read was the word ASS. The frustrating thing is the ranger fully acknowledged that I was doing nothing wrong and that we weren’t the problem, but his supervisor expects 5 citations a day and we would fill his quota. He also told me that the wealthy home owners in the area have been pushing the city to take down the structures so that they don’t have the traffic in the STATE park. The homeowners do not want to pay for removal of the buildings and they have the city against the wall… so to obtain the revenue the city needs for tear down they are citing innocent hikers checking out a piece of obscure history. Very sad situation… and now who knows what these tickets will cost me but, even more is that people have the power to tear down a piece of history because they want PUBLIC land to be for their use only. Oh, and one last things the state parks department has no interest in the buildings, do not regulate etc… which I brought up to the ranger and his answer was “Yeah, but we are city and city doesn’t want you here”. Oops…. one last, last thing, you can not park anywhere along the dirt road, even though there are no signs (In most rural areas/parks with an adventure pass, which I have, you can park along the roads and hike in)…. I came back to a $40 parking ticket on the car… Which made FOUR TICKETS FOR ONE DAY!

Hey all,are their rangers stationed inside the park, or close to the powerhouse?Especially at night? Basically what I’m asking is…You guys think I could get away with throwing a rave here?Throw raves out in the middle of the desert all the time, but it would be incredible if I could get away with throwing a party here.Would it be that huge of a mess of the party did get rolled?

Really dude… You want to throw a rave at a place of historical importance? Don’t you know that’s why nobody takes ravers seriously? By the way that looks like a huge logistical nightmare to setup all those amps and speakers. If you got rolled you’d be so screwed.

You cannot throw a rave here. You cant drive anywhere near it so lots to move in by hand, also the main road you would hike to get in closes at 9:00 PM. The canyon will make the sound travel far and so the community will hear all the music right away, and the parking is in the neighborhood so you will be caught right away. Plus the site can be dangerous especially at night when its dark and hard to see.

I hiked there some 25 years ago before there was much graffiti and the bldgs were still identifiable, I went for the first time today in years, and was shocked by all of the trash and graffiti, also quite surprised by all of the water on the canyon trail, as well as the $12 parking fee

I would like a phone number or email address of someone to see if I could get some information and maybe a tour guide or a group I can go along with. I am in my late sixties and wonderful how hard is the climbs. I do some hiking in Topanga where I live, but this seems a little harder.. Any thoughts you guys.. Sue Peace….

HIKE WITH PRECAUTION!We checked out the compound on Saturday, April 11th and were followed. The man appeared naked and with a large knife. He was white (but very tan), late40s-50s, and mustache. His knife was long, serrated, and curved. He asked if we were interested in him. Soon after hiking back toward the staircase, a cop car showed up.

[…] Well folks, I’m still catching up with my hiking posts! Stuart & I hiked Murphy Ranch on April 5th, the day after Solstice Canyon. When Stuart said he had heard of a Nazi compound located in Los Angeles, at first I was skeptical. Yet, it totally existed! Want to learn more? I found this great video from Tom Explores Los Angeles on YouTube that gives some history! Also: here are directions to Murphy Ranch. […]

Just returned from doing this awesome hike; both of us are 62, and found it an easy trail to do. Going down the steep 526 steps requires you to be careful, but the walk out to the buildings you see in the photos was easy. We ended up missing the steps on the way back and ended up walking up a road that brought us right back to the trail head, thus avoiding the steps up.Lots of teenagers tagging, lots of dogs, but every one was respectful and in awe of the compound. The only concern we had is that the last building is literally falling down, and the kids were all over it…seems like a tragedy just waiting to happen. We did see lots of young kids going down after sunset, which we supposed was heading down to party….It’s sad that this compound is scheduled to be demolished, as it is such an interesting piece of history; however, in its current state, its just a matter of time til someone gets seriously injured or killed and the city gets sued.

[…] Ranch doesn’t have to be hard. There are a few trails you can take that lead there, but after researching it, Jeff and I decided on the hardest route: a 6.5 mile loop that started and stopped at Will Rogers […]

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