The ambiance of the ancient Newari trading center of Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal creeps up on you slowly, like the satisfaction of a rich, unfamiliar yet luscious multi-course meal eaten with the fingers. The Newars were the original residents of the Kathmandu Valley and the majority ethnic group until the Gorkha conquest of the valley in 1769. Bhaktapur, a center…