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Topic: Ultima 127 Mods. (Read 5341 times)

Has anyone played with the Ultima 127 engines? They claim 140HP and 145 ft. lbs. are these true or fictitious numbers?.I've read that with a little head work and a cam change they have actually made better than 150 HP. How likely is that? How dependable are these engines?

Mine has been a work in progress, I had a set of S.T.D. stage 4 oval port heads made for it set up @ 10.5 with S&S oval port manifold 48 mikuni with race back, wood 9f cam. superzilla pipe. makes 150 ft. lbs and 139 h.p. going to bump up compression to 11.1 and go with a S&S 640 cam.

Has anyone played with the Ultima 127 engines? They claim 140HP and 145 ft. lbs. are these true or fictitious numbers?.I've read that with a little head work and a cam change they have actually made better than 150 HP. How likely is that? How dependable are these engines?

Out of the box,a 127 Ultima is in the 120 - low 130 range.You can make real good power,150,and the same in torque.It'll take more than a LITTLE head work.IMO,they're a good "hot rod" motor.Naturally as the power goes up,so does the pms factor. John

Well it's 2014 and my 127 is still going strong.I cleaned up the exhaust a little and polished the port after a little grinding.That's it.The bottom end is strong, after some kids put dirt into my oil bag at a Red wood run some years ago, I pulled it apart and found no damage.The oil pump has spooge in it but we got it all cleaned out and she still runs well.I ran a 48 Mik on her for the last few years but, you needed a pump to keep that float bowl full.It would run lean at the top.I prefer my 45 Mik that basically has 48 mik components in it.Fattest needle and needle jet (clip all the way on top), 190 main 32 idle jet 1 3/4 turns out, main jet extension to keep it in the fuel.Went to two piece rockers to get it to fit into the FLSTF frame.A bike that HD should of built years ago.Runs like a raped ape but, I'd let the OL ride it to the store if she wanted.

Same here 60,000 miles and still running strong I did a .010 over in 2011 when I bumped the compression up my plan this year is to replace pistons with 4.312 and make it a 131 @ 10.8 I run a 48 mik with 1/4" float bowel spacer I also replaced the boarzilla with cycle shack M pipes

Same here 60,000 miles and still running strong I did a .010 over in 2011 when I bumped the compression up my plan this year is to replace pistons with 4.312 and make it a 131 @ 10.8 I run a 48 mik with 1/4" float bowel spacer I also replaced the boarzilla with cycle shack M pipes

That 1/4 spacer should help a lot.Mikuni makes a vacuum pump that works nice if you can hide it under your tank.Just change over to the smaller needle valve if you go that way.I played with one and boy do you pick up top end power.Interesting you dropped the Boarzilla as I have heard good things about them.Not familiar with the M pipes from cycle shack though.I think when I do the top end I'll do the same.Can't ever get enough of cubes, it's like a drug.

A good shop is a good shop.If you like the way they build go that route.Personally, I steer clear of mass production places as they invite too any variables.Not to say they are at all bad, it's just my way of thinking.You don't need to pre run a motor if your good at building em.

Same here 60,000 miles and still running strong I did a .010 over in 2011 when I bumped the compression up my plan this year is to replace pistons with 4.312 and make it a 131 @ 10.8 I run a 48 mik with 1/4" float bowel spacer I also replaced the boarzilla with cycle shack M pipes

Same here 60,000 miles and still running strong I did a .010 over in 2011 when I bumped the compression up my plan this year is to replace pistons with 4.312 and make it a 131 @ 10.8 I run a 48 mik with 1/4" float bowel spacer I also replaced the boarzilla with cycle shack M pipes

I also run a deep style drain nut with extender for the main.It makes no difference if you make the bowl larger, your hamstrung by the delivery amount via gravity feed.The solution is to force feed the bowl, run the main as deep into the bowl as you can.The smaller valve is needed to restrict the gas volume being pumped.You will have a full bowl all the time without it pumping onto the ground at idle.The pump is small enough to hide under the tank and requires no maintenance.You definitely will feel the difference on the top end pull.