I have stocked up on ball joints and track rod ends while they are still cheap and easy to get.

I also have replacement bearings but that is for two reasons: 1. I need to rebuild the rear trailing arms so might as well do the bearings at the same time 2. Everytime you need new discs you need to split the bearings and the seals are never as good once the bearings have been split.

A nice mod would be a hub that you could fit discs on without splitting the bearing (especially if it ment a"standard" disc could be used at the back!!) but I don't suppose that would be realistic........

The spring platforms on the rear shocks rust through causing the suspension to collapse. If this happens while driving it could be catastrophic. My right rear collapsed while parked and I think at least 2 others on the forum have had near failures at least. As the cars get older this should definitely be an item which is checked regularly.

And another. Reverse light switch. Got mine out of the gearbox whilst the engine was dropped through engine mount bracket failer. Getting the new one in with the engine in place was more trickey however. Anybody else?

While on the subject of engine mounts, I decided to check mine before setting off to the Wobbly Wheel next weekend. I found that mine had had additional bracing struts welded on to the side. Clearly a previous owner has had problems! My spare gearbox has what I take to be the standard mount, but the bolts fixing it to the gearbox were secured with locking tabs. Two different solutions to the same problem?

I found that mine had had additional bracing struts welded on to the side. Clearly a previous owner has had problems! My spare gearbox has what I take to be the standard mount, but the bolts fixing it to the gearbox were secured with locking tabs

Interesting. Did it break round the holes facing the the camera? If it did then I may have misunderstood the problem because that's not where mine is braced. Sorry Krede, no pictures, I can only just see the one on the car, let alone point a camera at it.

No-one so far has mentioned cables. The most obvious one is the tailgate glass release cable which sometimes breaks and leaves you unable to get at the boot or engine. If you haven't replaced it in a long time (many years) it will be prudent to at least check it if not replace it now. It usually breaks just behind the handle where it is continually flexed. All you need is a length of bowden cable around 8 foot (96") or 2.44m long. The other cables that are worth checking/replacing are the throttle cable, choke cable and bonnet interlock. This last one is one many forget and is often not working as it has been broken for some time. The problem is that the bonnet will foul the head lamp pods if they are up and you try to raise the bonnet. So if the head lamps are up, the bonnet release should be blocked. This reminds you to lower the headlamps first. I also once came across a car where the headlamps were down, but the bonnet release would not work, and it was blocked because the cable broke in the blocked position! All that was needed to open the bonnet was to move the blocking lever back to allow the bonnet release to work. This can often be done simply by pulling on the outer cable just under the front.

The throttle cable (certainly on the 2.2) is about the same length as the tail gate release cable, so I usually carry a length of bowden cable in the car which will serve as a replacement for either if one or the other breaks whilst away from home. Carry a small carb. trunion to attach the plain cable end to the carb. and you don't need the special cable with the nipple.

Very good point - I have had failures with them all, except for the boot release (so that's probably next :-) )

My heating bowden cable failed however because my radio installation came somewhat apart, and grounded itself via the cable ... which then got sufficiently hot to melt the nylon casing ... and fill the cabin with smoke (!), so it cannot really be attributed as a common failure for the car. But the others, - yes definitely.

My boot release has once got entangled in things I had in the boot, resulting in it being pulled halfway out of the right hatch release ... and this made it impossible to open the hatch. Luckily, by spending about an hour trying, I managed to push it back in, using a piece of steel thread through the hole in the left rear light bay.

I am a newbie to the forum, but have from time to time helped out Philbert restore his Murena. One thing I have noticed is that some folks have problems with the passenger side electric window. Before you go buy a new motor and switch, check the switch in the driver side. The power is routed from this switch to the passenger side. It took an hour or more of troubleshooting and dis/mounting the motor assembly, before I found that the wire had come off on the driver's side.