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Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Hot Date Jeans!

Sometimes, the sooner one accepts that one is a freak and gets on with it, the better.

I accepted this fact a long time ago.

With my recent weight loss, I have found myself pining for pants that fit me. Really fit me and that do not swim around my backside. People will say to me, without much sympathy, "just make some!"

If it were only so easy. None of my TNT patterns fit me any more. I have "measured out" of most pattern lines. My hips are now 34", which is a size 4 in the Big 4. Most patterns do not even go down to a size 4. I have tried a couple, but they have a "trouser" like fit through the rear - in other words, they loosely skim the derriere region.

I do not want a trouser like fit, with no butt definition. I want a jeans-like fit. I used to go down a size in the back for a better fit, but I can't do that anymore, at least not in most patterns.

I have become a butt-less wonder. Woe is me.

Finally, out of desperation, I bought two pair of jeans on ebay. I went to the store to figure out what size I now wear in the Not Your Daughter's Jeans brand. The size 0 fit me through the hips, but I could not zip them over my ooshy-gooshy belly. Because, you see, if you have a 34" hip, you are supposed to have a 25" waist. My waist is somewhere around 32", depending on the time of day and how snugly I'm pulling on the tape measure.

In the end, I compromised on a size 2 in the NYDJ brand. These are still a bit roomy through the hip, and they also throttle me in the waist. It's nothing I can't handle, but it's not the most ideal situation.

So I decided to give the Jalie Jeans pattern another try, mostly because of the enormous range of sizes they come in. Back when I last made a pair, a couple years ago, I had traced off a size V. According to their chart, my hips are now a size Q.

That is a childrens size. The size of a 13-year-old, if you believe their chart.

Hence the freak comment.

My waist is between a size U and W on the Jalie chart. That is no problem, of course, but just a matter of a minor alteration, of several pattern pieces.

I traced off a size Q, enlarged the waist and all of the corresponding pattern pieces (mostly pockets), straightened the lower leg to remove the boot cut, grabbed some pink denim and some printed denim, and my plans for Memorial Day weekend were complete.

I first made the pink jeans. For these, I used a straight leg, but otherwise followed the pattern as designed. Wait, that's not quite true. Instead of an actual zipper, I used a mock fly and an elastic waist. Now, I know many of you scorn the elastic waistband. And if you have a waist that is several inches smaller than your hips, I understand why. But if, like me, you have a 1" or 2" difference between your waist and hips, an elastic waistband makes a lot of sense and doesn't add bulk. Believe me in this and do not scorn me.

Working on the front pockets

and the back pockets

I have to thank Margy for this excellent denim, sourced from Emma One Sock. It was listed as red stretch denim, but when it arrived, Margy didn't feel it was her red, so I gratefully inherited this lovely fabric. It it such a light red, that I call it pink, though it's more like a soft strawberry red.

I was pretty happy with these jeans, so I went back to the pattern and created a more tapered leg. For the second pair, I wanted to change things up. I wanted to use some big, bold zippers I had found locally and a wild printed black-and-white denim. (I'm not positive, but it may have come from Emma One Sock, but long ago.) I wanted to make this pair more tapered, with angled front zipper pockets and zippers at the hem. I had pinned some pants to my Pinterest Jeans board for inspiration.

This pair sewed up quickly. I had to change the order of construction around, due to the zippers, but it was not difficult.

I just love these jumbo zippers! I wish I could get more of them. They are 7" long, 1.5" wide, and the teeth are 3/8" wide.

I plan to create a tutorial showing how I inserted the zippers into the hem.

Oh, you probably want to know, are these jeans really for a hot date? No, I was joshing you. I did wear them tonight, but it was to an event at DD2's high school - she was giving her senior project presentation. Afterwards, a friend and I went out for dinner. A fun evening, but hardly a hot date. :)

I love both pairs too - but especially the printed pants with those zips! Fantastic! And I can totally relate to what you are saying about elasticised waists - my waist is not much smaller than my hips at all, and I adore an elasticised waist for that reason - it isn't bulky on me, and it is comfortable. Much better than being throttled by regular jeans waistbands. Time I bought that Jalie pattern and had a play with it. Thank you for the inspiration!

Wow Shams, you are looking amazing.. I'm really loving your jeans.. They look so well fitted. I'm suffering from loss of TNT patterns too. I think the fabric choices are so cool... I need to hunt it down.

Fabulous, Fabulous. The strawberry jeans are such a fun colour - but I can see why Margy deemed them to be an inappropriate-for-her red. And the zips are crazy cool! I'm loving both of these garments. And golly goodness, I can't believe how much weight you've lost. It must be inherently frustrating to have all your usual sizing and fitting alterations change!

I really want you to do a tutorial on making that elasticised waist for jeans. I usually don't even unzip my jeans on RTW to take them on and off. With elastic, the zipper becomes unnecessary. Twice the jeans in half the time!

Shams, both pairs of the pants you've made look GREAT!! I can't believe they are from the same pattern. Can you share what kind of elastic and how much stretch was in the fabric you used for the pants as well?

And Can I second Sherril's requst for a tutorial on the elasticized waistband please? I very recently figured out that a pair of RTW capri pants, with elastic waist fits much better on me that all of my other pants and I wondered why I shouldn't be making my own. It would take me lesser time if I skipped the pockets as well.

Shams, I like both pair but I really like the black n white pair with the cool zips. I'm also glad that you were able to find a pants pattern to use our your new svelte figure! I'm sure you will make more pants since these turned out so well!

Sometimes I look at those body type diagrams on the Vogue patterns and wonder who, honestly, has that inverted triangle shape. Now I know!!! That elastic waist treatment is wonderful. My one and only pair of NYDJ jeans has something similar--not sure if they still make that style.

It must be frustrating in a way to be exploring such new sewing territory, but also very exciting. New challenges, and gorgeous new looks to go with them.

Those black and white jeans look like they came out of a high end boutique with a high end price tag!!! Fantastic! The zippers just add that bit of fun and edge! You look fabulous and the smile says it all!

Shams, both pair are great! You know, you actually have a fashion-model figure (although lacking the giraffe-like height) -- Trinny & Susannah call it the "Lollipop" and I think very slim is the way to go on jeans. Nice, nice job. I like the black & white ones best, but super bright jeans are all the rage here in Sweden.

And just to futher comment on our figure oppositeness, I have several times had a 25" waist -- when my hips are 39" or 40" :-) For you, the elastic waist is King, for me, the zip and dart. I'm pretty sure your way is easier!

Wow, wow and triple wow! You certainly had a magnificent Memorial Day! I can't decide which pair of jeans I like best...the "pink" are stunning on you...but I LOVE the graphic vibe of the black and white ones...emphasized by those fabulous zippers...you really scored on the Jalie jeans!

Oooohh, Fantastic!! Love both pair, but the black and white especially rocks! You are going to enter those in Marcy Tilton's Party Pants contest aren't you? I sure hope so. You look fabulous and I love the two different necklaces you are wearing in the photos--can't beat a good statement necklace.

I like the graphic one better! No, the strawberry, no graphic. Heck both are grrrrrrrreat! Just go about your business in the zip version and some Hot Date potential is sure to notice. Hey my waist is 10 inches less than my hips and I love my Jag jeans with a mock fly plus wide waistband with elastic. Excellent for fit and comfort. A cross between the Style Arc Linda and Wendy (not named for me) pants. Good goin' Shams. Off to make a green smoothie. Cheers!

Love the new jeans! Especially the black and white ones. Don't apologize for the elastic waist. It's not an endurance contest! Comfort trumps style any day.

The downside of your new shape is the loss of your past wardrobe and TNT patterns. The upside is the chance to develop new TNTs and sew lots of new things! And likely the best part is all the fabulous compliments you are receiving, right?

I read your post yesterday like a glutton - you hit so many nails on the head about the Big 4 that I was so overwhelmed by the cacophony of agreement inside my skull, I couldn't post a comment. Most of your readers said what I would have, anyway - so I would only have been repeating.

But today? With the beauteous pink/soft red jeans? And then...and THEN...the awesomeness that is that black and white pair? You proved yesterday's point quite clearly -again- with the use of the much more adaptable independent pattern.

If that be freaky, then fly your Freak Flag, my dear - but just to let you know, I took one look at the first photo and the song "You Light Up My Life" started looping through my head...

I LOVE those black and white jeans! Congratulations on your taste and skill making your clothes. And with that cute little butt of yours, a hot date should be just around the corner, any time you want.

3 My hips are now 34", which is a size 4 in the Big 4. Most patterns do not even go down to a size 4. " ha! how does that feel? awesome? PINK JEANS!!! YES!!!! great fit - look soooo cute love 'em!think i might be getting that jalie pattern!

You look great in both pairs of jeans. I wish I was brave enough to wear a print like that. I always think they look fabulous on other people and then when I see it on myself I feel uncomfortable. The strawberry red jeans are a fantastic color, too!

Hey they look great. I have completely the opposite problems that my waist is a size smaller than my hips and I have chunky thighs, so with the new slimmer leg around in RTW I can't find anything to wear. I'm wearing old or thrifted wide leg trousers, and digging out my Burda wide leg patterns. I did buy some great trouser cut jeans, and they look like bootlegs on me lol!