Sea Doo HX bogging? I don't know what to call this.

Hello,

I have a '96 Sea Doo HX, and I took it to the lake today expecting to have a nice fun day, but ended up being frustrating. So when I got the Ski in the water I wont lie, but I forgot to put the drain plug in I didn't drive off without it, I noticed immediately, and put it back on the trailer to drain the ski. The ski was never started while the drain plug was out, and I don't know if this has anything to do with my problem at all, but I'm putting it out there just in the odd case it does. So after I had the ski drained, and ready for it's voyage, I had to idle out of the no wake zone, and once I left the no wake zone I went WOT, and all was well for about 5 minutes, and then it started bogging, and slowing down. Eventually I couldn't get the ski to even plane, it was as if the engine was throttling itself to 15% all the time no matter how much throttle I gave it. I could turn the ski off, and let it sit for about a minute or two, and then I could get back to WOT for about 30 seconds, and then it would bog down, and act as if it was locked to 15% engine power. I don't see how this could be a carb issue since it only does this once it's warmed up, and I can temporarily fix the issue by letting the ski sit turned off for a little bit.

I've seen these same symptoms a thousand times... You need a complete fuel system clean out... you trashed your carb filters with dirt from the tank or a collapsed and deteriorating fuel line. Does the ski still have grey fuel lines on it?

Beware, you WILL DESTROY YOUR MOTOR if you keep running it this way, if you haven't already. When you have problems idle immediately to the trailer, running a ski lean like that because you think it will "clear out" is the number one reason people have to buy new motors.

I've seen these same symptoms a thousand times... You need a complete fuel system clean out... you trashed your carb filters with dirt from the tank or a collapsed and deteriorating fuel line. Does the ski still have grey fuel lines on it?

Beware, you WILL DESTROY YOUR MOTOR if you keep running it this way, if you haven't already. When you have problems idle immediately to the trailer, running a ski lean like that because you think it will "clear out" is the number one reason people have to buy new motors.

I've replaced the fuel lines, and I've also cleaned out of the fuel selector to the best of my ability. I will take the carb apart, and take a look at it again. What will this do to my engine, and how long will it take to ruin it? I ran it for about 2 hours, but I wasn't trying to run it hard. Also is there a way I can tell if the engine has been damaged?

Compression test will show damage to the engine. Running lean will destroy the cylinders. You know you are running lean when the motor looses power... 2 hours is way too long, if you engine is still healthy i'll be surprised...
Fuel selectors aren't something i clean out, they are cheap, SBT sells them for like $19.99... they are so hard to get clean without causing a leak. An air leak in the lines you replaced or a bad fuel selector will cause your problem as well. Is the oring on the fuel water seperator good? If the bowl on the fuel water seperator filter is leaking from a bad oring you will get a similar symptom. Double check the filters in the carbs and do a leak test and pop off test on the carbs while they are off.

Compression test will show damage to the engine. Running lean will destroy the cylinders. You know you are running lean when the motor looses power... 2 hours is way too long, if you engine is still healthy i'll be surprised...
Fuel selectors aren't something i clean out, they are cheap, SBT sells them for like $19.99... they are so hard to get clean without causing a leak. An air leak in the lines you replaced or a bad fuel selector will cause your problem as well. Is the oring on the fuel water seperator good? If the bowl on the fuel water seperator filter is leaking from a bad oring you will get a similar symptom. Double check the filters in the carbs and do a leak test and pop off test on the carbs while they are off.

Are you referring to a leak test on the engine or carb? I've never heard or performed a leak test on carb. I also have never heard or performed a pop off test. If you could explain how, and what I need to perform a leak, pop off test on a carb if that's what you meant I'd be grateful!

Oh dear...
Look here... http://www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
If you did your carbs without that information in mind then take them off and start all over. The pop off tester will work for leak tests and all, it's a dang good investment. If you aren't going to buy one then you need to send your carbs to someone who does.

Oh dear...
Look here... http://www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
If you did your carbs without that information in mind then take them off and start all over. The pop off tester will work for leak tests and all, it's a dang good investment. If you aren't going to buy one then you need to send your carbs to someone who does.

Also... the full shop manual for your unit is at seadoomanuals.net

Can you possibly refer me to a good pop off tester? I don't have a whole lot of money to spend on one, but I don't want to waste it on the wrong product either. Thank you for being so helpful!

I have the mikuni brand, but they are expensive... Before i bought a good one i used a hand bicycle pump rigged to a good air pressure gauge i bought and screwed into a T fitting with some barbed fittings and leftover fuel line. Check ebay for a good 0-60 psi pressure gauge and then buy a 1/8 npt T fitting it will screw into and then a 1/4 inch hose barb adapted to 1/8 npt, and a 1/8 npt schrader valve to hook up your bicycle pump with. Or save a lot of time and buy one... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Pop-O...cc18db&vxp=mtr That one will do the job every time, and if you sell your ski or decide you don't need it anymore you can sell it used on ebay and not loose very much money.