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11 June, 2010

Stand still in a garden long enough, and a thousand lovely photographs make themselves apparent

This five-year-old Xiaguan was a bargain $20 at China Chadao, where there are a few remaining at the time of writing. I enjoy hunting around for > 5-year teas - indeed, "you never know what you're gonna get". The back-pages of Houde, for example, have proven remarkably fruitful of late, where Dr. Lee doesn't seem to put up his prices for teas stocked in previous years.

Songpin for everyone

I have a soft spot for Xiaguan. Whether it be the dark, cigar-like overtones imposed on their modern productions, or the rough honesty of their older recipes, they're very straightforward and, usually, quite nicely priced.

As shown below, the cake is showing a few years of age: the tips have oranged a wee bit. Amusingly enough, the bing is incredibly wonky.

Do not adjust your set - this is wonky tea

This is a husky cake, and is clearly rather contrived. It has a heavy, dark flavour that could be a prototype to the infinite variations on a theme of black tobacco that form modern Xiaguan productions.

It is simple, but solid. After extended brewing, that blackness actually departs, leaving a long, sweet woodiness that is very appealing. Perhaps the smoke will depart with further age, perhaps not. It is well-priced, not being worth much more than $20 - I won't be buying more, as I have enough of thsi kind of Xiaguan, but if you've not yet reached saturation, you might like to give it a look.

Addendum
April, 2014

Whereas once this was husky and "black", in the way of modern Xiaguan, the dry leaves now have a sweet and humid scent, and this encourages me. In keeping with tradition, this bingcha is tight tight tight.

The "black" smoked notes from its processing have receded into the background; in the foreground we have strong kuwei [good bitterness] and sharp granary flavours. The colour of the soup is a heavy orange. It is strong, cooling, and sharp. It is rough, but reliable. The warm, full, bitter soup is good, and has depth. For £20, it is particularly good.