Treasure-seekers head underground to find Simon Sei’s gem, a bright nook at the back corner of a basement supermarket, where for nearly two decades the Kowloon-born master chef has been cooking some of the freshest, most affordable good food in Chinatown. Expect classic Cantonese wokery and lots of neighborhood regulars, who also come for salt-and-pepper chicken wings that rank among the city’s best. It's cash only.

A nice crisp pilsner or lager should complement the delicate flavors. Or, in honor of this subterranean find, try a bottle of Dogfish Head’s Château Jiahu, the honey and hawthorn beer inspired by an ancient Chinese archaeology site.

Weekend noise:

Only the occasional 78-decibel clang of shopping carts and shoppers disturbs the otherwise mellow mood. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)