Benefits

Features

What's in the Box

(1) Heater Core For Mustangs With Factory A/C

(1) 3/4" Heater Hose

(1) 5/8" Heater hose

(4) Heater Hose Clamps

Product Description

Direct Replacement Mustang Heater Core
If your 1986-1993 Mustang heater isn't working it may be time to replace your heater core. A faulty heater core can also result in a coolant leak onto your floorboard which causes steamed up windshields, strong coolant smells in your car, and a constant wet floor on your passenger side floor board. This direct replacement heater core will solve these problems and get your heater working like new again. Pick on up at LatemodelRestoration.com and follow along with one of our installation videos or tech articles to help you with your installation!

Notes
-The heater Cores are specific to Factory A/C and Non A/C Cars.
-This heater core fits 1986-1993 Mustangs that were originally equipped with factory A/C. Kit comes complete with Hoses and Clamps which are normally replaced with the heater core.

Product Videos

Video: Mustang Heater Core Installation (79-93 Fox Body)

Published on 2013-11-04

Description

The heater cores in Fox Body Mustangs are infamous for leaking and causing poor performance of your heating system. We get a constant bararage of questions on how to replace 79-93 Mustang heater cores. We listened to the outcries from our fellow enthusiast and we created a step-by-step walkthrough video on how to replace your heater core. The installation does require you to have roughly a half to full day of time set aside to tackle the job; however, doing the job yourself can save you hundreds of dollars!!!

A bad or leaky heater core can cause steamed up windshields, strong coolant smell coming from the dash or even worse -- wet passenger side floor. Don't let a bad heater core ruin you carpet and cause you to drive around in the cold! Pick up a 5.0Resto replacement heater core today and watch our installation video! We have them available for both A/C and Non A/C Mustangs.

As you can imagine, latemodelrestoration.com employees have varying levels of projects going on in their spare time. And this one quite literally just came out of the weeds. It does run in drive now, but it is in dire need of a heater core, and we know you've been begging for that install video, so we're going to give it to you. As with any installation, you'll want to start by disconnecting your battery and with this, you need to remove your seats in your center console. You can check out our console and seat removal videos to show you exactly how to do those steps.

Now, let's get on with pulling the dash. Remove the four bolts that retain the lower dash cross brace and then remove the brace. Loosen the front scuff plate screw. Remove the kick panel pushpin, and remove the cake panel. Do the same on the other side. Pull out the cluster of wires on the passenger's side, and separate all the connectors.

Remove the two nuts that hold the hood release cable bracket to the steering column and then let the cable and bracket hang free. Loosen the two nuts closest to you on the steering column, and then remove the two nuts near the firewall completely. Unplug the airbag, cruise, keyboarding, and ignition switch connectors. Support the column and remove the two nuts closest to you keeping the columns supported lower enough to unplug the three multifunction switch connectors. You can now allow the column to hang freely.

Remove the top two cluster trim bezel screws. Remove the bottom right cluster bezel screw. Using a small screwdriver, release the retaining tabs on the headlight and hazard switches. Remove this switches from the bezel and unplug all the connectors. You can then remove the trim bezel.

Remove the four cluster retaining screws. Disconnect the left-hand cluster connector. Disconnect the speedometer cable by pressing down on the plastic sleeve and then sliding it off the speedo housing. Disconnect the right-hand cluster connector and remove the cluster from the car. Loosen the single nut retaining the dash frame to the pedal assembly. You do not need to fully remove this nut.

Remove the speaker grill retaining screw in the speaker grill on both sides. Remove the two glove box door screws and remove the glove box. Remove the defrost vent trim. Remove the five screws along the top of the dash. Remove the single bolt at each lower corner of the dash at the kick panel area and then carefully lower the dash.

Unplug the blower motor, vacuum connections, and blower resistor along with the radio amp if equipped. Over by the pedal assembly, unplug the brake switch connector. Rotate the dash out of the way carefully. Remove the single both at the base of the HVAC box. Loosen the two bolts on the HVAC box upper brackets. Remove your heater hoses at this point if they're still connected. Our were already bypassed.

Remove the two nuts that retain the accumulator bracket to the firewall. Loosen the accumulator bracket screw and slide the bracket all the way down the accumulator. Remove the two large diameter nuts retaining the HVAC box to the firewall. Disconnect the vacuum line. Back inside, fully remove the two upper bracket bolts you loosened earlier and pull the HVAC boxes far in as possible. This will expose the heater core cover lid.

Remove the two cover screws closest to you. Taking your time, trust me you'll need it, remove the two cover screws near the firewall. Lift up the cover and remove the heater core. This is where it was leaking at. Take your new heater core and wrap it with the supplied foam tape. Slide the new heater core into the HVAC box, and reinstall the cover lid and four screws. Believe me it's not any easier than taking them out.

With the HVAC box back in place, you can reconnect your heater hoses and tighten down the clamps. Be sure to check and top off your coolant level. Reverse the removal procedure of the HVAC box. To hang the dash, line up the locating tab in the center of the dash with the hole in the firewall and the single nut you loosened but didn't remove with the slot on the pedal assembly. With the dash back in place, reverse the removal steps for the dash.

You'll notice we completed this job without taking lose anything with the AC. Now, if you were to go and have your AC system evacuated, you could disconnect the accumulator and your liquid line from the evaporator and pull the box completely out giving yourself a little bit more room to work. Couple of other things, you're going to want to have a drain pan to catch any coolant and after you hook you heater hoses back up to your new heater core, you want to check your engine coolant and top it off.

Please feel free to leave a comment if this video was helpful for you, and if there's any other videos and you'd like to see from latemodelrestoration.com.

Video: 87-93 Mustang Console Removal

Published on 2012-10-09

Description

Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to remove a Mustang center console. To gain access to certain parts on your Fox Mustang, you will need to remove your center console. Some of the most common reasons to remove your center console are to replace old worn out components such as Ash Tray Doors, Lower Shift Boots or even old dirty carpet. The removal process is extremely easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Check out some of these common restoration parts used while removing your center console.

Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!! 50Resto parts are the perfect addition to your American muscle Mustang Project!

Transcript

[MUSIC PLAYING]

JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. Jmac here with more interior tech. Today we're going to be showing you how to remove your center console. Now removing your center console is necessary to gain access to your shifter or even just your lower shifter boot.

Now it is a little involved, so follow along and we'll show you step by step what needs to be done. We're going to start by removing your center console armrest. Go ahead and pop off your oval plug and grab you a 5/16 or 8-millimeter socket, and you can remove the two bolts on each side that hold the armrest onto the console.

Repeat that process for the other side. I already have ours done. So you can just pick straight up on the armrest and it'll come free of the console.

You can set it out of the way, and we'll move up here to the shifter handle. Just pop up your shifter boot and bezel. You can just pick it up. And then remove the two bolts that hold onto your shifter handle.

Now every shifter's going to have a different piece of hardware holding it on, so you're going to use anywhere from a 10-millimeter to a 13-millimeter socket, or even an Allen-head socket for some aftermarket shifters. You just remove those two bolts to get that handle out of the way.

Then go ahead and remove your AC trim bezel. That just snaps out of place really easily. And grab you a set of radio removal tools. If you still have the stock radio, we have these available on our website. If you've got an aftermarket radio in your car, you have four screws holding in the adapter plate, so you can pull those four screws out to gain access to the back of the radio.

Engage those into place. Pull out and straight back on the radio. And unplug your antenna and then your two electrical connectors from the back. Set that out of the way.

Now we can move on over here to the driver's side. You're going after remove your lower column cover. It's held on by two Phillips' head screws. You've got one over here by the key release button. Get it out of the way. And then one over here, right underneath the lock cylinder. And then your lower column cover comes free. Make sure and keep your screws with it, because you don't want to be hunting around for screws later.

Now your plastic cover, trim cover, for the bottom of the dash, it's held on at the bottom with three screws, and it's got two push clips up here. This car is already missing one screw. It's 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. Go ahead and pull those out of the way.

And grab hold of the panel and pull straight back to disengage the clips. You can set it out of the way. Then you've got this metal trim piece. It's held on, again, with two bolts. It's got either 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. We want to pull those out of the way. Then that metal plate comes free.

Now you want to drop your glove box, open it up, and then push in on both sides, and then it'll completely fall down. Because you have two Phillips-head screws on this side and two Phillips-head screws on this side that you need to remove.

Now you can go ahead and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the front of the console top panel. Then the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the console top panel. Pull up on your E-brake handle and you can take your console top panel up and off.

Then disconnect your two electrical connections-- one for the cigarette lighter and then the other one for the power mirror switch, if your car's equipped. Then your console top panel is free. Now you have two more Phillips-head screws at the back of the console that need to come out.

And now your console is free. Lower your E-brake handle back down, pick up on the back of the console, and pull straight back. Lift up, and you've got an electrical connector over here for your trunk release. It simply pops out of place, and your console is free from the car.

Now to reinstall your console, you would just simply reverse these removal steps. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.

Community Q&A

Hello, can you please tell me if there is any difference between #LRS-18476K and #LRS-18476A. other than that 1 comes with hoses and clamps.Asked by Patrick B. from pelham | January 8, 2015 | Comment10

Best Answer:Yes Patrick, They are the same heater core, just the LRS-18476K will include the new hose kit. Answered by Jay W.from waco | January 8, 2015 | Comment00

Does this kit include the Motorcraft hoses with the flow restrictor?Asked by abel e. from hayward | January 27, 2015 | Comment00

Best Answer:This comes with reproduction hoses made from the original Ford tooling. Having said that, the flow restrictor is not included. You will also need part number LRS-18599A if you wish to run the restrictor. Answered by Karson S.from Hewitt | January 28, 2015 | Comment00

As someone already stated, This comes with reproduction hoses made from the original Ford tooling. However, mine did come with the restrictor preinstalled in the hose. This was an excellent product and replacement and works really well.

Is the flow restrictor included with the hoses, or does that have to be purchased separately?Asked by Joshua O. from Athens | January 16, 2015 | Comment00

Best Answer:The flow restrictor doesn't come with this kit. You only get the heater core, hoses, and clamps. The part number for the restrictor that you'll need is LRS-18599AAnswered by Trey P.from Lorena | January 16, 2015 | Comment00

This video was key in getting this heater core swap done efficiently. There were no surprises. Once you get to the heater core removal. You don't have to remove all 4 screws. The back 2 screws are tough, but I was able to remove the driver side front screw easily with a ratcheting box end wrench. I left the passenger side screw in and just lifted the lid. I do wonder if you can open the heater core box with out removing both the front screws.

Before you start this project, be sure to think about any upgrades or fixes you might want to do ie; carpet, cigarette door repair, instrument cluster glass, e-brake park rubber etc. The whole inside of the care will be apart. Then you don't have to wait for your parts to arrive from LRS.

I recommend tightening every screw as you do this job. I did and I fixed a few rattles.

It took me just under 6 hours. And having a friend to help you remove the core and install it back in would be very helpful, but not needed.

Great video, please keep them coming.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

Was this review helpful to you?

I have heat!

By
Chris G. on
9/23/2014

Replacing the heater core is one, if not the hardest jobs you can do on your Fox. But it is doable with a little patience and a good buddy to lend a hand. By far the hardest part is getting the old heater core out of the compartment with the AC still hooked up under the hood. But once out, this replacement core fit excellently and was easier to install than the original. The foam around the edges, in addition to sealing it up nicely inside the heater box, had a dampening effect to reduce rattles and directs maximum air through the core. A big plus that the heater hoses comes with the proper restrictor. My core blew out because one of the owners before me put on the blue silicone heater hoses and did not put a restrictor in. This is a great buy and works better than the original if you ask me.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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Hard work but I have heat!!

By
Chris S. on
2/15/2014

Easy to follow install but that's about the easiest part of this job!! Tons of screws that need labeling & separate packing in order not to lose them. Smaller core which makes it easier to fit into the case. Don't forget to apply the foam around the core like I did and have to disassemble twice!!

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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Fit like a Glove

By
Miguel G. on
3/25/2014

Was not looking forward to doing a heater core on my mustang. But with my luck! I'm doing two. Yes 2. Both 91, a convertible and a Notchback. Unfortunately the core went out on the notch the day before I ordered the cores. Any ways I've done the notch and putting in the core is the least of problems. Getting to the core is a days task. But thanks to the latemodelrestoration.com video it made things easier. Will be doing the convertible in the next few days. Thanks LRS.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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Perfect Fit!

By
Christopher Y. on
11/5/2014

I bought this on wednesday and recieved it on saturday, it was great learning how to take my interior apart and replacing the old heater core with the new one. Great product and no more leak. Thank you 50Resto.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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complete heater core kit

By
Tim H. on
3/7/2014

This comes with everything you need for complete heater core replacement. The heater core, both hoses with clamps and the flow restrictor if needed, even foam insulation to wrap the core with.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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awesome deal

By
tucker s. on
10/22/2014

Fit and works great! Install videos are a big help. Nice getting everything you need in one pack

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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Ready for the winter

By
Milissa A. on
11/11/2014

Just what we needed to get the heater working for the winter. Great product.

Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!

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Speedy shipment

By
Shawn P. on
12/15/2014

Great value and quick delivery. Hope to get many more years from this.

Vehicle Applications

About This Brand

50resto - Dedicated To The Preservation Of The Fox Body Mustang
50resto is your trusted source for 1979-93 Mustang Foxbody restoration products. Buy 50resto products from Latemodel Restoration Supply and receive the best value, quality and industry-leading customer service. Whether you need Fox Body Mustang weatherstrip, headlights, taillights, seals, body panels, hardware, door handles, trim parts, carpeting or upholstery, 50resto is the brand you should demand.
SVE and 50resto Warranty
One Year Hassle Free Replacement
SVE and 50resto products are warranted to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. What does this warranty cover? YOU! That’s right, whether you ordered a SVE brand Mach I grille delete or a 50resto brand light kit, if your product fails within a year of your purchase we got your back! Some conditions will apply.

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