The Ultimate Guide to Bangs

Bangs can instantly transform your face and make any haircut look cooler, declares hairstylist Harry Josh. That's great and all, but it doesn't change the fact that chopping off that much length in one snip is scary. If you've been dreaming of getting bangs, Josh offers this bit of consolation: "There’s some form of face-framing bang that will work on almost everyone." Whether you prefer to ease in with sideswept fringe à la Jean Shrimpton, or go for a bold and shaggy version like model Freja Beha Erichsen, our tips from top hairstylists reveal everything you need to know about finding, styling, and maintaining your best match. And if you have bangs and you're tired of them, we've also got advice on how to grow them out.

Flatter Your Face Shape

Like any accessory, bangs should enhance your features, not overwhelm them. For long and narrow faces, “blunt fringe that hits below the brows will make your face look fuller,” explains hairstylist Garren. If your face is round or square, try bangs just above the brows, he says. When it comes to heart-shaped faces, the decision is yours—short, long, or arched all suit you.

Mind the Maintenance

Schedule a professional bang trim every six weeks, Josh advises. Many salons offer it as a complimentary service between regular appointments. If you're going to take matters into your own hands (which we really don't recommend), don’t do anything drastic, and be sure to use salon scissors on dry hair. “Take off millimeters at a time. You can always cut more,” urges Josh. Avoid snipping one straight, solid line; instead, twist your bangs and point the scissors up so you chip into the ends, leaving an imprecise line, he says.

The Beginner Bang: Sideswept

This is the style for women who want to ease into bangs, says hairstylist Chris McMillan. Easy to blend with the layers around your face, these low-maintenance bangs work on any hair length and grow out fairly fast. They’re also rather simple to style: If your hair is straight, spritz your bangs with water and blow-dry them as you pull down the hair with your fingers, suggests McMillan. If it’s wavy, use a small round-barrel brush, drying them in the opposite direction from the way they fall, he says. As your hair cools, smooth them to the correct side to keep them from falling flat.

The Dramatic Bang: Short and Tousled

Wearing very short bangs (translation: two to three inches) à la Amber Valletta in the ‘90s takes some guts, but the look is edgy. Warning: If you have very curly hair or won't be blow-drying daily, this length isn’t for you. When your bangs are too short to wrap around a brush, McMillan advises pulling them straight down with your fingers and blasting them with your blow-dryer. Once dry, comb them down or use a dab of pomade for a tousled Joan Jett–inspired texture.

The Traditional Bang: Long and Straight

The trick with blunt, geometric bangs is to make sure they’re never ruler-straight or too thick in the middle, says McMillan. Instead, they should fall about a half inch longer at the temples than in the middle for a slight, inverted U shape. As for the most flattering length, McMillan advises anything landing between the tops of the brows down to the tips of the lashes.

Curly bangs were born in the ‘80s, and there’s certainly been a resurgence of girls wanting to rock this style, says Josh. Think Jennifer Beals in Flashdance. “The key is to cut them dry, in their natural state,” says hairstylist Paul Hanlon. As for styling, “comb the bangs down and apply styling gel,” adds Garren. On days you want to wear them straight, use a mini-flatiron to smooth them out.

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Forehead Adjustments

To minimize a small forehead, bangs should be as long as possible and start farther back on the head than normal. A large forehead can be hidden with bangs that are cut to be longer at the temples than they are at the middle, explains hairstylist John Sahag.

Growing Out Gracefully

When growing out your bangs, there will always be an awkward period that lasts at least four to six weeks, says Josh. The key is to get them to blend into the sides of your hair, which can be accomplished with periodic salon trims. “You’re not cutting the length, just thinning it out so the bangs are not so blocky as they grow out,” Josh says. Accessorizing with clips is another option: “Make a deep side part and insert a clip at the hairline, just above one eyebrow,” says hairstylist Serge Normant. "It’s a surprisingly sexy look.” Once the bangs are long enough to pull over your eyes, pull them straight back and anchor them at the crown with the help of a bobby pin.

Still unsure if you’re ready to jump on the bang wagon? There’s no need to commit just yet. “Clip-on bangs are so good these days. No one will be able to tell they’re not yours,” says Garren. Skip synthetic versions (their high shine and stiffness scream fake) in favor of human pieces from Helena Collection, advises Josh. Take them to your salon for a face-fitting trim and color session. Ask for them to be cut slightly shorter in the middle with longer side pieces to camouflage where the bangs are attached to your scalp. When you're ready to clip them in, tease your roots and spritz on hair spray, says Garren. Snap them in and brush your own hair over the top for a seamless finish.

Need some inspiration? Three models talk about what it's like to take a hair risk.