Archives

All posts for the month November, 2014

The trail to Whitney Falls has consistently been the most popular trail on Mount Shasta that does not begin on the Everitt Memorial Highway. Compared to the other backcountry trailheads, it has a short and simple drive that is easy to reach off of the highway. It is a beautiful hike through remote territory and ends at an incredible overlook near awesome Whitney Falls. It is no wonder the trail is one of the most frequently listed trails in hiking and waterfall guides. Unfortunately the trail has suffered significantly since it was first damaged in a major glacial outburst debris flow in 1997. The Forest Service effectively condemned the trail and went unmaintained for nearly two decades. Hikers still wanted to reach the falls and a series of use trails were beaten into the loose volcanic soil. It was not until earlier this year that the Mount Shasta Trails Association worked hard to reestablish the trail and make it a functional, easy-to-follow route again. Their efforts were much appreciated and it seemed that the Whitney Falls Trail was going to be restored to its former condition. While much of the original path on the west side of Bolam Cree was retained, the new trail crossed over the creek and traveled on the east side before recrossing and continuing on the west.

Ironically, no sooner had it been rebuilt that there was a major flow of some type through Bolam Creek that wiped out the critical first crossing point. Where the original crossing required a six foot descent down a sloping grade to the creek it would now take a 12 to 15 foot drop down a sheer, loose, boulder-filled wall. This is not only completely unrealistic, but also a dangerous move to attempt. The second crossing survived the heavy flow thanks to a series of large boulders in the creek bed that buttressed the walls of the creek’s channel. For those looking to hike the Whitney Falls Trail now, an alternate route has been established. It crosses the creek much earlier than before, and travels through Bolam Creek’s channel for extended periods of time before climbing up onto the east side and making its way to the still extant second crossing. This route is poorly marked and quite dangerous in high water situations. It is completely unrealistic as a long term route for the trail.

The crossing in pre-washout condition. Note the circled rocks for reference. The channel is not too deep and the walls have a gentle slopes, making it easier to climb. This is not a great shot of the crossing but it is the best I have before the conditions were altered.

Here is a view of the crossing after the washout. Different perspective but taken from the same spot. Note the circled rocks for reference.

The crossing from the opposite side. Obviously this is not a viable option for the trail anymore. The walls of the channel are loose and unclimbable.

Thankfully, there is another option for restoring the Whitney Falls Trail. The original route of the trail (view it here) followed the current path but at the point where the new route made the crossing over Bolam Creek, the trail climbed above the channel and traveled along the high, brush covered divide between Bolam and Whitney Creeks. This route had staggering views of Mount Shasta. The views were unique among the trails on the mountain since it takes in the awesome north side and includes the Bolam and Whitney Glaciers. Now the path has been abandoned and much of the route is getting choked with overgrowth. However, the way is still easily discernible and would not require too much work to make it passable and enjoyable again. Even better, realigning the trail along this original route would make any crossings of Bolam Creek’s unstable channel unnecessary. I hiked this route back in 2007 and it was generally easy going in most places. I hiked it again back in September and it was in pretty rough shape and really overgrown. The last 7 years have not been kind to the original Whitney Falls Trail.

It should be noted that even though the creek crossing is gone and the original trail is overgrown, there is still a relatively easy goat trail to follow that stays on the west side of Bolam Creek and connects the sites of the first and second crossings. If the sides of the creek channel were more stable, this would make the obvious location for a new trail but the loose soil makes this a temporary route at best. The original trail, high above the creek, is still the best option for a long term route.

I am thinking that it would be a great project to get some folks with loppers out to the trail next spring and cut back the growth that has encroached on the trail. A few people, some loppers and a little motivation would be all it would take to restore the Whitney Falls Trail and make it one of the prime routes on Mount Shasta it has always been. Would anyone be interested in helping in this endeavor?

While the fall color in Mount Shasta is not as grand as the east coast or parts of the Rocky Mountains, it is still very dramatic. Indeed, this is one of the most beautiful time s of the year up here in the North State. The color is not found high on Mount Shasta or amongst the tall peaks of the Trinity Divide. Instead, it is focused in the lower elevation areas, including the Strawberry Valley and the along the southern fringe of the Shasta Valley near Weed. The best places to enjoy the fall color from the trail are along the region’s creeks and rivers. Here the riparian environment is loaded with a variety of trees and shrubs that have wonderful displays of color in the fall. The trails are focused around the McCloud and Sacramento Rivers, though there are a few paths on other creeks that feed into the rivers as well.

Even though the spring thaw is perhaps the most dramatic and awe-inspiring time to visit the rivers, fall is no doubt the prettiest time of the year. Their water level is lower, but the rivers have a friendly and intimate sense about them and the power of the surging spring water is replaced by the palette of colors that surround the waters. The delicate leaves, slowly falling from the trees compliment the running rivers. In some ways, given the profusion of conifers throughout the area, the quality of the fall color can often come as a surprise. The McCloud and Sacramento Rivers enjoy great displays of the autumn spectacle and the fall is one of the best opportunities to appreciate these great rivers from the trail. Yet it must be mentioned that the best color may actually belong to the Klamath River at the north end of the Shasta Valley. There are no trails along this river but those motivated to see the large river in its incredible canyon and dazzling color will not be disappointed.

With the warm weather expected over the weekend, the next few days will be a wonderful opportunity to get outside and enjoy the mountains one last time before the cold weather really begins to set in. However, with the road past Bunny Flat closed, there is sometimes a sense that the season has passed and the high country is now out of reach. While this may be true for the trails that begin up at the Old Ski Bowl, there are still plenty of fantastic high country trails that are waiting to be enjoyed. Some of the higher elevation may have some snow on the ground but in most places, there isn’t much more than a very thin layer of ice. Despite the lateness of the season, there is still a tremendous diversity of high country trails to hike. Whether on Mount Shasta or in the Trinity Divide, there is still time to get out and enjoy the Mount Shasta region’s incredible scenery! The following are five great options for excellent high country hiking this weekend.

The giant volcanic cone of Black Butte is prominently visible throughout much of the Mount Shasta area. At 6,358, it is not among the tallest peaks around the great mountain but it does have a tremendous amount of relief, towering over 2,000 feet above surrounding area. It would be a major landmark in its own right if it were not for the obvious and overshadowing presence of Mount Shasta. Hiking to the summit of Black Butte is often impossible in the winter, when snow covers the trail and the exposure is very dangerous. Making matters worse, the snow lingers on the trail for a long time because of the route’s location on the peak’s north side. Right now the way is clear and this is a great time to enjoy the hike’s incredible views.

While the last stretch of the Everitt Memorial Highway may be closed, it is still easy to drive quickly to high elevation at Bunny Flat. From here, you can hike either the Green Butte Ridge Trail or the short path to Horse Camp. The latter is preferable at this point because Green Butte does have some snow on it. Horse Camp, on the other hand, is below the current snow line and is reached quickly. From there you have numerous options for climbing higher. While the hikers headed to Helen Lake and Hidden Valley must contend with some of the white stuff, there is plenty of room to explore the lower areas of Avalanche Gulch without having to deal with any snow.

This is one of the best trips in the Mount Shasta area and it is still a great option even though we are moving into the cold season. The hike follows the Pacific Crest Trail along the top of the Trinity Divide, with fantastic views in all directions. The vista is particularly awesome to the west, where the sawtooth towers of the Trinity Alps form a spectacular horizon. Not to be outdone by the western vista, the view to the east is utterly dominated by Mount Shasta. After a couple of easy miles on the PCT, the view of the Seven Lakes Basin unfolds beneath the trail. Many of the lakes are visible from here and the towering cliffs, Boulder Peak and the brooding Grey Rocks make a memorable scene. Hikers can continue further and visit Helen Lake or descend down into the basin to explore the rest of the lakes.

The journey on the Clear Creek Trail is one of the most spectacular trails in California. Even though there may be some snow higher up near the springs, the lower section is still an awesome trail with some of the best views of Mount Shasta, Mud Creek Canyon and Mud Creek Falls. The trip starts in old growth red fir forests and climbs onto the east rim of Mud Creek Canyon where there are epic views. Higher up the trail climbs into a large basin containing the headwaters springs of Clear Creek. The Konwakiton, Watkins and Wintun Glaciers all cling to the cliffs above the basin. Volcanic spires loom high overhead, marching inexorably toward Mount Shasta’s summit. While there may be a bit of snow in the basin right now, the odds are good that the going will still be easy.

Often overlooked because of Mount Shasta, Mount Eddy is a tremendous mountain in its own right. The view from the summit is among the finest in Northern California and certainly the best north of Lake Tahoe. There is just a thin layer of snow near the summit and the rest of the trail is generally clear. With Mount Shasta white and the way clear to the top, now is a fantastic time to climb to the view. If that were not enough, the hike passes through awesome Deadfall Basin, where the trio of lakes is an incredible destination on their own. Just hiking to the lakes is a fantastic high country trip; perfect the warm weather this weekend. While the summit of Mount Eddy may be a bit too much for little legs, the hike to the lakes via the PCT is a great outing for kids.

As some of you may have noticed, there has not been a new post on the blog for four months. Up until July, I had given myself the goal of adding at least four posts per month. I think I got two done in July but nothing has been posted since the 5th of July. So what happened? I had two book manuscripts (more on those in the near future) pending and time simply was too short to continue posting things on the site. I tried to keep up with the Facebook page, but even that got neglected after a while. Most of July and August was spent out in the field finishing up the research necessary for the books and September was a blur completing the manuscripts. The first was due at the beginning of October and the second was due two weeks later. Once both manuscripts were submitted, my dad and I took a roadtrip out to Dallas, TX. It was a mix of business and pleasure and a great trip. So, even though the editing process has commenced for the manuscripts, I now have time to resume the blog, if anyone still cares to read it. I hope to have a more substantive post up by the end of the day.

Just for fun, here are a few images I took from the roadtrip to Texas. These aren’t particularly great and they were all taken from the side of the road, but it sure is a testimony to how spectacular driving through the western U.S. is.

Aspens line the East Fork of Lamoille Creek.

The sun lights the summit of Mount Fitzgerald in the Ruby Mountains.

The Colorado River reflects the mighty Fisher Towers and the snow capped La Sal Mountains.

Meta

DISCLAIMER: Any use of the information contained in this site by any and all persons is done at their own risk. The operator of this site shall be held harmless from any and all alleged claims, demands, causes of action, liability, loss, damage and/or injury to property or persons whether brought by an individual or other entity. This indemnification applies, without limitation, to all actions by an individual or other entity as a result of their use of information contained in this site.