Kitchen Call: Warm up with these winter wonders

Linda Bassett

Thursday

Feb 25, 2010 at 12:01 AMFeb 25, 2010 at 3:12 PM

Slow-cooking, revived in recent years in Europe, spread quickly to the United States. As a formally organized “movement,” its members revive and restore culinary customs, sharing recipes, techniques and philosophies. (They don’t shy away from innovative ingredients.) Underlining it is the understanding that family life is enhanced while a room fills with the savory smells of the meal being prepared.

“On days when warmth is the most important need of the human heart, the kitchen is the place you can find it: it dries the wet sock …”

— E.B. White

Here we are in the dreariest part of winter. Sloppy gray snow lingers listlessly by the roadsides. Skies seem painted to match. The silvery glow is erased from ponds now unsafe for skating. Nearly a lifetime ago, the groundhog stopped by and left us to deal with those wet socks from the spray of a truck running through a slushy puddle. Or the ones that seem to sprout daily from little ones’ boots.

Is there anything more soothing than pulling off those socks and boots just inside the door and inhaling the invisible sunshine of a warm kitchen? Although no longer the home’s source of central heating, the kitchen still issues its invitation out of the long, deep winter.

Slow-cooking, revived in recent years in Europe, spread quickly to the United States. As a formally organized “movement,” its members revive and restore culinary customs, sharing recipes, techniques and philosophies. (They don’t shy away from innovative ingredients.) Underlining it is the understanding that family life is enhanced while a room fills with the savory smells of the meal being prepared.

On any weekend, a winter-weary cook can start something wonderful and leave it alone. Warm options remain while waiting — playing board games with the kids at the kitchen table. And later in the day, there might be a pan of savory short ribs to eat sloppily, leaving traces on happy faces. And to go with it, a version of great-grandma’s baked beans enhanced with the jolt of balsamic vinegar and topped with sweet, hot apples.

2. Whisk together oil, garlic, salt, pepper and oregano in a large bowl. Place the ribs in the bowl and turn to coat all over with the marinade. Move the ribs so that they make one layer in a large roasting pan. Drizzle any remaining marinade over them. Roast for about one hour, turning once. If ribs are not deeply golden, add 15 minutes to cooking time. Remove from the oven; set aside to cool for 30 minutes.

3. Whisk together the two mustards and orange juice in a bowl. Toss together breadcrumbs and parsley on a plate. Dip each rib into the mustard mixture to coat. Roll each one in the breadcrumbs. Place ribs in a new roasting pan. Pour the fat from the first roasting pan. Add some extra orange juice to it, bring to a boil, scraping up the bits of meat clinging to the bottom of the pan. Then, drizzle these pan drippings over the ribs.

4. Put the ribs back in the oven; bake until the coating is golden, 30 to 35 minutes longer. Serve right away, still hot.

HOMEMADE BAKED BEANS & APPLES
Makes 6 servings

Keep in mind that dried beans need overnight soaking. Chicken or vegetable stock can substitute for beer; rum is optional. Yes, flavor alters, but results are still delicious.

1. Pick over beans, taking out any shriveled ones. Place in a large bowl; cover with cold water; set aside to soak overnight (at least eight hours).

2. Rinse and drain beans. Place in a deep pot; pour in fresh water to cover. Bring to a boil; simmer gently, uncovered. Beans will be just tender at about 45 minutes. Drain.

3. Heat oven to 300 degrees.

4. Place cooked beans in a casserole dish large enough to hold with room at the top (about 2 quarts). Add onion, garlic, ginger, tomato paste, vinegar, molasses, dry mustard and salt; stir to mix. Add beer (or stock) and water to cover beans by about an inch. Stir in ground cloves. Bury the piece of salt pork in the center of the beans.

5. Cover and place in the oven to bake for 5 hours, stirring whenever you think of it. Add more water or stock whenever the beans dry out on top.

6. Uncover beans. Cover the top with the apple slices. Stir together melted butter, brown sugar, and rum, if using, and pour over the apples. Bake uncovered for 1 hour longer so that the top browns. Serve hot.

Linda Bassett is the author of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai: Neighborhood Cooking North of Boston.” Reach her by e-mail at KitchenCall@aol.com.

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