Author
Topic: Whirlpool Duet Washer (Read 6313 times)

This is my first post on the site. I have a whirlpool duet washer WFW8300SW0, three years old

Problem: Door wonít unlock, wonít begin cycle.

It didn't spin at the end of a cycle, so I opened the front panel, and used the manual control to open the door. Now door won't open (pause light on, add a garment light on). the control panel lights work.

What I tried: cleaned the filter. Ran the diagnostic program: F-24 error code followed by Rince/Spin light, and door locking/pause light coming on. I checked all wire connections for wear/looseness, replaced the heat sensor, replaced the door lock (was getting inconsistent resistance readings from it when I tested it at the CCU as in the service manual). Oddly, after jiggling wire at the dispenser, and resetting the machine, I was able to get it to fill, but it would not agitate or spin (just showed minutes advancing on the timer).

Iím new at this and obviously replaced two good parts--do I need to replace the CCU?

Update on my problem: I tested all the components for resistance at the CCU through the wire harnesses (as the manual recommended). I got two bad readings, one for the door latch/lock/switch (they call it different names) I had already replaced and one for the heat sensor I had also replaced already. I tested each one of these at the part itself: the heat sensor is working fine but the door latch gives a reading of 120 ohms for the lock solenoid (the manual says it should read 60 ohms). I'm not sure how to proceed--I can't believe there were two simultaneous problems with the machine that caused it to stop working. Do I replace the door lock again? Do I need to replace the wire for the temperature sensor?

I've spent many hours on this and can't afford a service call! any help would be very much appreciated!

Here's what I did: as on page 5-5 of the manual I tested the unlock solenoid on pins 2 and 3 and the lock solenoid on pins 1 and 3. For the unlock I got a reading of 60 ohms. For the lock I got 120. I wanted to make sure it was the latch that was defective and not the harness, so I then tested on the part itself, touching the leads to the connector "prongs"--guessing 2nd and 3rd prongs for the unlock and 1st and 3rd for the lock solenoid. I got 60 ohms on prongs 2 and 3 and 120 on prongs 1 and 3.

Does this sound right? (the machine is still not working, so definitely something's broke).

My impression is a bad CCU. You have pretty much ruled out the door solenoids by the recommended check fro the CCU, which is what the CCU itsel looks at. The other readings you got when you strayed from the path are bogus and don't apply. Also be sure you checked the black pushbutton switch at the top of the stack, as it must close to run the unit.

I would start by doing a Diagnostic test of the machine, this time bypassing the Service History mode. To do this:

Execute this procedure with an empty drum. All of the steps below must be done in sequence in order to reach the Diagnostic Test. This executes the automatic test but does not show the error history.

Close the door.Push POWER.Select the CLEAN WASHER cycle.Press EXTRA RINSE four times within 5 seconds.Press EXTRA RINSE to advance to the next step of the test procedure.If the starting procedure fails, push PAUSE/CANCEL, then repeat the startingprocedure.

I checked the black door switch as you suggested--it's fine (0 ohms when closed).

I tried to run the diagnostic test just now (twice in fact) as you suggested. Immediately after I pressed Extra Rinse 4 times, the door locked, the red pause light came on, and the Rinse/spin light started flashing. When I pressed Extra rinse once more it didn't change anyting. When I pressed Pause/Cancel, the Drain/Spin light started flashing. I could only get the Pause/Cancel light off by unplugging the machine.

I would have to say the CCU us bad. At least, that is what I would get out of my truck and install first. Only after I ran the motor spin test or diagnosed the motor control a little better. This CCU likes to do things in a specific order:1. Check the dispenser to see that it is shut. 2. Check the door lock. 3. Check the motor to see if it tumbles as the water comes in.4. Check for rise in water pressure during the first few seconds of the fill.

I don't know how to do a spin test or how to test the motor control unit, and did not see any tests in the manual. Can you give me an idea how to do this? (I have already tested the resistance of the motor with the multimeter as in the manual, and got the expected readings of 6 ohms. )

Once a few days ago I was able to get the washer to fill, but the drum would not turn or spin--the timer on the display just counted down. I had to select drain to empty it.

I ordered a CCU this morning--I relied heavily on online advice for this repair, so for the sake of others who are in the same boat, I'll let you know what the results are when it comes in and I install it.