YOUR CART

TALES FROM JAIPUR

8th-15th August 2013

One year on - I was excited and privileged to be asked once again to visit Jaipur in India on behalf of The Jewellery Channel in August. After a long flight from London to Delhi - myself and producer Paul decided to take a more scenic route to the company HQ in Jaipur, by car!How Amit (our head buyer for the channel) and the team smiled when they heard. A journey of what should have been three or four hours as the crow flies actually became a more leisurely six! Both my producer Paul and I forgot that the word 'Expressway' in India is actually a melee of generally slow-moving traffic that comes in all shapes and sizes, with more than frequent diversions to make way for improvements that will one day come. Not forgetting the addition of animal traffic. The sacred cow stops the traffic with one blink of their warm and resigned eyes.

The adventure had started which would take me back to where a number of TJC's jewellery pieces are inspired, designed and meticulously handcrafted.

After renewing acquaintance with many colleagues it was time to tour the workshops to start painting the picture of the process and the people that do all the hard work. From that first sketch, to cutting the gemstones employing methods passed down over generations to all the many stages that lead to the spectacular finished pieces. There was so much to see. What I didn't get the chance to show on camera last time is that there are so many skills required by many in the process of what seems such a simple pendant or ring. So, tripod out - lights, camera and action! We had a major production to get started.

Before first coming to the workshops, I had an idea that it must be large scale teams handing pieces from one person to the next. What I saw both delighted and humbled me. I have presented jewellery on TV for many years without a real true appreciation of the work. Sure - I'd heard the process described and seen close-up still photographs but nothing prepares you for being in awe of such skill employed on every element from start to finish.

Last time I was in Jaipur, the schedule was so tight that I had very little time to immerse myself into the sights and sounds of India. I'm so pleased that this time was very different. I was able to visit the famous sights of the region, including the Amer and Jaigarh forts. To sail out to the famous Jal Mahal Palace was amazing, and an elephant ride was a real highlight (although to mount and dismount wasn't the most graceful as I'm sure you'll be seeing on screen)

I walked the streets of Jaipur to drink in the contrasts of spectacular sights and sounds. We were here in monsoon season where India can become very much like Venice within minutes (doesn't bring life to a halt though, i can tell you!). Everyone can own a business here - and the mix of ways people earn their living certainly opens your eyes! It was great to sample the countless local dishes and street foods this jamboree of a city has to offer.

They say that if you can drive in India that you pretty much have it cracked anywhere in the world. Pick just about any hour during the day and what you'll see is the equivalent of dual carriageways with four lanes on either side with traffic going both ways on both sides! Quite often you will have traffic driving towards you - and forget mirror, signal, manoeuvre, it's more a case of a deep breath and a prayer. The sound of horns is everywhere, but it's not an angry blast but actually a determined good-natured race to be that one inch further than the rest.

The mix of vehicles makes for an attention-grabbing cocktail too. Tuk-tuks share the chaos with scooters carrying whole families, buses that don't fill when all the seats are taken as you can head to the roof or hang off the back. Pedal power, colourful coaches and cars share the never-ending jostle with camels, cows, monkeys (cheeky ones too) and goats that all seem to take their own turn at the roundabouts. I was talking to one of our colleagues about vehicle standards. It would seem that if your vehicle has wheels that all turn - you're motoring!Oh, you might be tested for pollution from time to time. In terms of a driving test, apparently it's very simple. I joked that the government should issue a badge for every year you manage to survive, both physically and mentally on the roads.

I heard many figures for the population of Jaipur - some say four million, some say ten. Whatever the figure, there appears to be a peace and harmony that would be the envy of many in the UK. When you see how many jobs are influenced directly by sales from both TJC and its sister station in America - you soon appreciate the importance of jewellery making and the generations of skills and patience required to bring every piece to life.

They'll be lots to see on screen at The Jewellery Channel of my adventures in the next few months.Thank you first of all to the team in Jaipur for making us feel so welcome - and 'Shukriya' to you for listening/reading. Now, you can flick through my photo album from the trip. Enjoy :)