^^^ oh that's right! yes those fins will allow the air to flow over those fins lengthwise, and should increase your top speed, especially if they are the old cal custom style fins!!! and make it more stable on the straight a ways

^^^ oh that's right! yes those fins will allow the air to flow over those fins lengthwise, and should increase your top speed, especially if they are the old cal custom style fins!!! and make it more stable on the straight a ways

'rebuilder' pistons usually over compensate for the increased bore diameter with an excessing capacity dish to prevent the rebuilt engine from getting into an octane requirement problem

if you're going to re-cam the engine using the existing bottom end, make sure you don't choose a cam that asks for more static compression ratio than you have, overall performance will suffer due to reduced cylinder pressure. in general performance cams assume that you will have better than stock static CR, you'll want to choose a cam that improves cylinder pressure. indicators will be short advertised and .050" duration numbers and low or no overlap at all

Ok, I'm sorry this engine isn't anything classic (though I'm sure it will be), but I'm building a 2002 4.6L 2v mustang gt motor for a friend and its missing a lot of parts and I'm wondering if any of you have any resources having to do with all the parts needed, torque values, etc. That would be freaking awesome! Thx in advance! He has aluminum heads and cams and a Victor Jr intake instead of the factory intake and he's gonna be using the throttle body to feed it. Its got Manley forged pistons, forged crank and ibeam rods and roller rockers. Don't see any lifters or pushrods though, gak! No valve springs either, was thinking about some services. Think its gonna need valves as well, didn't see any. Its bored out to a 5.0 as well.

3.50 gears will make the car a LOT more fun, but will make the car busier at expressway speeds.

I ran 2.5" duals with a summit version of the magnaflow mufflers, even with the 2.79 gears i could light the tire up from a dead punch for about 15 feet, now that I put 3.55's in (8" rear) i can light them up for much longer, cars is much more fun to drive around these Appalachian twisty roads and hills. I can cruise at 65 mph and the rpm's aren't too bad with the 225/70/14's On wet road though if i punch it at 50-60 the tire will break loose. this is in my 73 base 302/c4 car which is bone stock. I think 2.5" is fine for a 302, even one of these low comp smog era motors.

1. The factory head bolts are torque-to-yield. You don't reuse the factory head bolts, you buy new ones, either factory or aftermarket.

2. the factory rods are not machined where they meet the caps, and vice-versa. They use what they call a "cracked powdered metal connecting rod", where the rods cap is snapped off during machining, making what is supposed to be a perfect mating surface between the rod and cap. If your reusing the rods, make sure they are marked for location in the motor and orientation to each other,

3. They use a crank-driven oil pump.

4. Be careful installing the spark plugs. Some heads use a collar that threads into the head, then the plug threads into the collar. older motors have been reported to fire stripped plugs and collars through the hood(not kidding-look it up).

My dad has one in his '46 ford, and i have a 4.6 DOHC motor from a Mark VIII Lincoln on a stand, waiting for the right project. Good luck with it, it's a VERY complex piece of hardware.

Wow, thx for the info, this is exactly what I'm talking about, all the little side notes about stuff, it actually makes this build scarier. I know I can pull it off, though. The heads are brand new aluminum, and all the parts I'm using and will be acquiring are/will also be new. They are forged Ibeam rods btw. I did find something out from Manley in that there has to be .030 piston to wall clearance on their forged pistons due to expansion. When I got it (lucky dude that had me do this cause I'm so an*l about s**t being right, hehe), it had a little rust in a few of the cylinders and had several thousandths taken out and was afraid he couldn't use his new pistons but he was dangerously UNDERbored, if he'd had run it it would have seized. Thanksfor the wealth of info AGAIN! LOVE this site. Laterz, any other tips, sites super welcomed.

Oh, btw, I moved to Azusa, CA about 4 years ag, forgot to post it. This place is the pit of H*ll, super hot all year around. I live in one of the 4 BACKHOUSES down a driveway, never seen THAT before. Well, that's efficient use of your real estate, eh? Apparently I'm the only one smart enough to put a tarp up over my driveway so I can work outside (ol' lady wont let me build s**t in the living room, whats wrong with women???).

^^^ oh that's right! yes those fins will allow the air to flow over those fins lengthwise, and should increase your top speed, especially if they are the old cal custom style fins!!! and make it more stable on the straight a ways

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