ya, without a functioning intercooler, you really shouldn't be running over 5-6psi like they came stock. even then, I'm not sure i'd be comfortable on a track day.
Also, do you have alternator problems? was showing just barely 12v when shouldn't it be 13.5-14?

I know he broke his arm very recently and hasn't been able to do much work at all...perhaps a little preoccupied with some shows for his car too. I gather with the Arm broken, things have really backed up. But whether that's a justifiable reason or not is up for debate. They're one off parts and can't really be had elsewhere. Sort of like commissioning a shop to do some custom work, timelines can get pushed back. It's not something he has sitting on the shelf ready to ship.
That said, lack of communication is a big no-no. I'd hope he would at least respond with updated timelines or some status on your order within a couple business days at most. He's not the type to "rip you off" though, just not super prompt with timing. Good luck, and if I see him around the local meets, I'll let him know.

I can see paying that amount for a COMPLETELY rust free Z. The amount of time and annoyance of rust repairs really adds up. Especially if you have to pay a professional to fix it. Plus cars that are in that condition body wise are usually pretty good for the rest of the car...often complete, unmolested, etc.
Seems like a steal if it's as good as it looks in the pics. Take an awl (pointy screw driver) and probe for rust from underneath. Check seams where floor pans meet firewall, rails, doglegs, and the infamous battery area.

i'm pretty well versed in nistune tuning.
The stock rb25 maps go way retarded up in the 96 range as a safety measure incase someone experiences boost spikes or tries to run too much boost. The stock ECU is also known to have a huge dead spot from 44-4800 where they pull timing near peak torque.
Questions:
1) are you running stock injectors?
2) are you running stock MAF?
3) do you know what your peak "load" value is (like somewhere between 80 and 90?)
4) what have you done for knock sensor? did you stub it out with a resistor? The RB25 knock sensor used on the z32 ecu is too sensitive and leads to false readings and pulls lots of timing.
5) did you adjust the K-constant at all during first running. Ideally what you do is drive while datalogging and get the long-term fuel trims to be close to 0.
5b) are you using the Feature pack maps?
if you send me your tune and any logs you have, i could have a look at any problems.
email me for fastest response. it's my hybridz username @gmail.com

After having a brake line blow out near the back and 1 fuel line start leaking near the isolator when I was fiddling around, I'd say replace all the hardliners going back. Unless of course the car was in a really dry environment and doesn't have any other rust/corrosion, then they may be fine.