Description

Without a doubt, Stanage Edge is one of the great crags of England, if not the world. Where it lacks in height, it makes up for in diversity and volume. On Peak Rock describes Stanage as "Gritsone at its best" and one would be hard pressed to argue with that. The rock is absolutely bomber, the number of classic routes and problems is staggering and the views perfectly English.

The Edge runs roughly north south, and has several recognised sub areas. These are reflected here:

One of the best VS routes at Stanage and one of my favorite routes of all time. Sustained, varied, steep, aesthetic- this is the definition of classic. The climb generally follows a left facing flake system in a shallow corner on the face of Mississippi Buttress. Make a bouldery start on angular, slightly overhanging sandstone fins to gain a bridging rest. Here the rock begins to feel more like grit. Using a series of hand jams, improbably high steps, and bold smears on the left side of the corn...[more]Browse More Classics in International

The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.