South America, Peru, Cordillera Oriental, Various Ascents

Climbs And Expeditions

Climb Year:

Publication Year: 2006

Various ascents. On an expedition I led to the Cordillera Oriental with Tim Riley, we did several climbs. Our first climb, on August 9, was of a nameless ca. 5,200m peak that extends from the long ridge west-southwest of Nevado Huaguruncho. We climbed the northeast ridge, grading it AD, and descended the southwest ridge/western slopes in a round trip from base camp of 12½ hours. I could find no evidence of this peak having been climbed, although the French gave it a go in 1968.

Our next climb was on the southwest face of Nevado Nausacocha and was just awesome, 16 pitches of perfect climbing. Snow, ice, and perfect granite led to the summit. I thought this peak may also have been unclimbed but found a bolt anchor and fixed ropes on the summit, the ropes headed down the southeast ridge. I could find no details of this ascent, although I found a krab with “Made in Japan” stamped on it. [Subsequent research revealed a Japanese ascent unpublished in western journals: Southeast Ridge, Kumagai-Kubo-Nishikawa-Moriya-Sawamura-Tomomura, 1978.] We rappelled our ascent route and were back in high camp after 18 hours of climbing. We rated this route D+.

Our final climb was on August 23, of a minor rock peak, near Cerro Barraco, which we climbed by its east ridge, with one short pitch of severe (British grade), to gain the moderate east ridge.

Anthony Barton, U.K.

South America, Peru, Cordillera Oriental, Various Ascents

Various ascents. On an expedition I led to the Cordillera Oriental with Tim Riley, we did several climbs. Our first climb, on August 9, was of a nameless ca. 5,200m peak that extends from the long ridge west-southwest of Nevado Huaguruncho. We climbed the northeast ridge, grading it AD, and descended the southwest ridge/western slopes in a round trip from base camp of 12½ hours. I could find no evidence of this peak having been climbed, although the French gave it a go in 1968.

Our next climb was on the southwest face of Nevado Nausacocha and was just awesome, 16 pitches of perfect climbing. Snow, ice, and perfect granite led to the summit. I thought this peak may also have been unclimbed but found a bolt anchor and fixed ropes on the summit, the ropes headed down the southeast ridge. I could find no details of this ascent, although I found a krab with “Made in Japan” stamped on it. [Subsequent research revealed a Japanese ascent unpublished in western journals: Southeast Ridge, Kumagai-Kubo-Nishikawa-Moriya-Sawamura-Tomomura, 1978.] We rappelled our ascent route and were back in high camp after 18 hours of climbing. We rated this route D+.

Our final climb was on August 23, of a minor rock peak, near Cerro Barraco, which we climbed by its east ridge, with one short pitch of severe (British grade), to gain the moderate east ridge.

Anthony Barton, U.K.

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