Steak Frites at The Bauer Kitchen

Steak frites, sometimes “steak-frites,” is a simple combination of grilled steak and French fries, and it is perhaps the classic meat-and-potatoes plate that is loved by virtually everyone.

It is claimed by the French as quite nearly the quintessential brasserie dish (originally a brasserie was a restaurant a little more formal than a bistro and one where they brew their own beer), although the Belgians want a piece of that action too.

Steak frites traditionally was an onglet or bavette cut of beef (in France, at least) and hot, crisp fries. Some sort of Béarnaise or Hollandaise sauce, or a simple compound butter, might accompany the dish (as is done at L’Express, Montreal, pictured here).

While Waterloo’s The Bauer Kitchen in mid-town doesn’t serve either of the above two classic sauces of French gastronomy on their steak frites, they do nicely enrich their New York cut of steak and heap of frites with porcini butter, veal jus and truffled Parmesan fries.

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“Two friends -- one a fat man and the other a thin man -- met at the Nikolaevsky station. The fat man had just dined in the station and his greasy lips shone like ripe cherries. He smelt of sherry and fleur d'orange. The thin man had just slipped out of the train and was laden with portmanteaus, bundles, and bandboxes. He smelt of ham and coffee grounds. A thin woman with a long chin, his wife, and a tall schoolboy with one eye screwed up came into view behind his back.”by Anton Chekhov (1860-1904), "Fat and Thin" (1883)