some they do mention are ,it is light, it is short ,they over estimate rounds per charge and none seem to mention robustness

then my version ,it is easy to mount a decent silencer(the original is a waste of space) ,the rails are fairly ok (but needs a weaver conversion rail for any decent sight),stock carp( but as it is beech it can be carved into something half ok),the blueing is really poor( it rusts like an old can).power sort of consistent (if you replace the hammer spring regularly ,clean any crud out of the works,lube with a slippy moly grease etc etc etc ).the hammer cocking mechanism is only covered by the stock and collects muck easily which would be ok if it wasnt a bit flimsy,it is quite nice to handle once the stock is shaped and handy in confined spaces,bushes etc but it would be far better if it was robust .

a mighty fine weapon if you like smithing and fiddling about and only use it indoors .if you need a reliable air gun that will work when you need it even if you slightly ignore it's care get a good underlever springer ,they might be a bit heavy and long but they are robust

As far as I know my Webbly Raider II has an unregulated supply relying on a knock valve.

It still manages a 3fps (less than 0.5%) variation between shots across its main usable fill. IE max fill 200 bar & will go down to 50 bar & still work but filled to 190 bar & stopping at 80 bar with about 50 shots gets you an almost flat curve in shot speed.

yep the difference between plop and this needs a fac is quite noticeable depending on how full the cylinder is,195 to160 ish is fairly consistent and at that pressure power depends on how consistent the hammer action is ( spring compression,oil,grit ,temp etc etc )

as a target weapon in perfect conditions and adjusted carefully with a crono,always filled 195 and used for ten shots it is fairly consistent but as a practical tis a bit random and i recon quite easy to go from plop to fac to plop just by taking a few shots or getting it cold

using the instructions and filling to 200 if it was adjusted and crono tested to 11.9 after a few shots it would be well over and if set to about 9 for the first few the middle shots from the mag would be legal but the last few would be under again.

the factory hammer spring is a bit "collapsible" so setting it and then leaving it uncocked for a while drops the power considerably.

i really cant recommend them as although the handling is fine the consistency is messy.

tis a bit surprising that they did a production run ,i think the new version has had some of these things sorted but the earlier models are a bit pants for the money.

Mine is not as bad as that even when filled to the max 200 bar. Instead of a 3 fps variance its more like 5 to 10fps.

Oh just to be clear the 3 fps is not between shots but across the entire 50 shots.

The power can be set at the full 200 bar & its ok then for the next 50 shots. After that they start to droop.

Mine is very easy to make into an FAC if you wanted too. A standard one can go up to about 18 just by tinkering but a proper FAC conversion with new parts is about 25. The number of shots drop drastically for the FAC ones.

One of the rules about the power of non FAC's that I dont like is that if you get pulled & the gun gets tested they can use any pellets they like not just the ones you were using. That can put a sub 12 to well over 14 & needing an FAC.

Seems a bit like doing you for speeding cos the car could go faster than the limit even though you were not speeding.