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One Pattern, Many Looks: Blouses

Create unique blouses and tops that fit you and your style perfectly. Customize the design details and look of commercial patterns to make them your own.

Breeze through pattern modifications for bodices, collars, closures and sleeves with fashion designer Sarah Holden. Turn a basic blouse pattern into a template you can use to create a wardrobe of custom-fit garments. Modify the length and shape of hems, reimagine garment silhouettes, create any style of yoke and manipulate bust darts to unlock new looks. Bring your garments together in flawless fashion as you learn to add facings, keyhole closures and hidden button plackets. Add boutique appeal to your patterns with cowl, tie-neck and flat-falling collars. Adjust sleeve length and fullness, and create sophisticated ribbon-ruched sleeves and elegant bell sleeves. Build the blouses and tops you've been looking for starting with a single commercial pattern.

Lesson plan

12:30

Lesson 1. Introduction & Making a Muslin

Meet your instructor, designer Sarah Holden, and learn more about the pattern she'll be using as a foundation for building a sloper and design variations. Follow along with McCall's M6649 — included with your class purchase — or choose your own favorite blouse pattern to build upon. Then dive right into taking essential measurements and testing the fit with a muslin.

41:05

Lesson 2. Creating a Sloper

Quickly turn your commercial pattern into a sloper with Sarah's guidance. You'll trace off the tissue pieces onto sturdier paper, remove the seam allowances and transfer the markings, making adjustments according to your own measurements as you go. Sarah will show you how to true up the front, back and sleeve pieces and transfer the dart bulk. If your pattern has a back yoke, you'll see how to combine it with the back piece. You'll make a second muslin that can serve as your model for future projects, and create master pattern pieces using poster board or oak tag.

37:45

Lesson 3. Bodice Variations

Now that you have a master pattern, it's time to start designing! Lengthen or shorten your hem, or give it a sweet curve. Add fullness evenly around the bodice without compromising the fit. Create front and back yokes, or a combined yoke that eliminates the shoulder seam (perfect for lace!). Move the bust dart or transform it into gathers at the yoke, shoulder or center front. Sarah shows you how!

25:46

Lesson 4. Facings & Closures

Customize your blouse with pretty closures. Add a facing at the neckline and turn it into a closure, or create a keyhole closure for a high neckline. A hidden button placket will give your garment a smooth finish, and it's easier to create than you might think.

20:12

Lesson 5. Collar Variations

Sara shows a variety of collars you can try: cowl, tie-neck and flat-falling (or Peter Pan). Using your sloper, they're simple to draft, and you can choose from several ways to attach them for a smooth finish.

25:07

Lesson 6. Sleeve Variations

Alter your sleeves to suit your style. Changing the length is easy, even on cap sleeves. You can add fullness or make your sleeve more slender. You can even go sleeveless or try an elegant bell sleeve. Sarah's ribbon-ruching technique is so clever, you might want to make a blouse just to try it out!

"Cannot thank you enough! I love, love, love ... the assortment of classes, as well as the fact that I can watch the lessons at my own pace, the instructions, the ability to write myself notes, etc. I also love the fact that the classes are for life! Thank you again for such a fantastic and wonderful site for just about everything I love to do!” - HARVESTMOONSierra Foothills, CA

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Lesson plan

12:30

Lesson 1. Introduction & Making a Muslin

Meet your instructor, designer Sarah Holden, and learn more about the pattern she'll be using as a foundation for building a sloper and design variations. Follow along with McCall's M6649 — included with your class purchase — or choose your own favorite blouse pattern to build upon. Then dive right into taking essential measurements and testing the fit with a muslin.

41:05

Lesson 2. Creating a Sloper

Quickly turn your commercial pattern into a sloper with Sarah's guidance. You'll trace off the tissue pieces onto sturdier paper, remove the seam allowances and transfer the markings, making adjustments according to your own measurements as you go. Sarah will show you how to true up the front, back and sleeve pieces and transfer the dart bulk. If your pattern has a back yoke, you'll see how to combine it with the back piece. You'll make a second muslin that can serve as your model for future projects, and create master pattern pieces using poster board or oak tag.

37:45

Lesson 3. Bodice Variations

Now that you have a master pattern, it's time to start designing! Lengthen or shorten your hem, or give it a sweet curve. Add fullness evenly around the bodice without compromising the fit. Create front and back yokes, or a combined yoke that eliminates the shoulder seam (perfect for lace!). Move the bust dart or transform it into gathers at the yoke, shoulder or center front. Sarah shows you how!

25:46

Lesson 4. Facings & Closures

Customize your blouse with pretty closures. Add a facing at the neckline and turn it into a closure, or create a keyhole closure for a high neckline. A hidden button placket will give your garment a smooth finish, and it's easier to create than you might think.

20:12

Lesson 5. Collar Variations

Sara shows a variety of collars you can try: cowl, tie-neck and flat-falling (or Peter Pan). Using your sloper, they're simple to draft, and you can choose from several ways to attach them for a smooth finish.

25:07

Lesson 6. Sleeve Variations

Alter your sleeves to suit your style. Changing the length is easy, even on cap sleeves. You can add fullness or make your sleeve more slender. You can even go sleeveless or try an elegant bell sleeve. Sarah's ribbon-ruching technique is so clever, you might want to make a blouse just to try it out!

The instructor

Sarah Holden, Instructor of One Pattern, Many Looks: Blouses

Sarah has been sewing and making clothes for as long as she can remember. Her first and most beloved teacher was her grandma. After graduating with a degree in studio art, she started her career in theater, working in the costume shops for the Santa Fe Opera, The Denver Center Theater Company and Opera Colorado. She then studied patternmaking at Apparel Arts in San Francisco. After working in California for the women’s label Catherine Jane, Sarah moved to New York City. She currently works in sample development for the Coach Collection, a women’s luxury clothing line.

Ratings & reviews

Class rating

(16 reviews)

A keeper

by kcastillo0319 on July 2, 2015

I wondered about the rating for this class and decided on 5 stars. The instructor has a good body of knowledge and shares it clearly. I picked up some good tips from her and would recommend this class to someone wanting to know how to adapt a sloper to various styles.

I wondered about the rating for this class and decided on 5 stars. The instructor has a good body of knowledge and shares it clearly. I picked up some good tips from her and would recommend this class to someone wanting to know how to adapt a sloper to various styles.

Great class - the title does not describe how great the content is

by Grizzabella on June 7, 2015

This was an unexpected gem. I initially didn't sign up for it because the title made it sound like the sewer was going to be walked through making the different variations already shown on the pattern. That is not the case at all! The pattern was actually used as a sloper and individual variations were drafted, according to the style you desire. Many different variations were shown and there was excellent content. The instructor is poised and the class moves forward in a timely manner, but ...

This was an unexpected gem. I initially didn't sign up for it because the title made it sound like the sewer was going to be walked through making the different variations already shown on the pattern. That is not the case at all! The pattern was actually used as a sloper and individual variations were drafted, according to the style you desire. Many different variations were shown and there was excellent content. The instructor is poised and the class moves forward in a timely manner, but not too fast. My only disappointment was that sleeveless variations and guidelines were not covered better, but if you read the class discussions this was addressed. Great information there, too but I tried to print the response to the sleeveless question and I don't think there is an easy way to print it, so I had to long-hand the information. Loved the class anyway, and I highly recommend!

I learned so much....

Great class to learn how to build a sloper then make variations on it. I have made many blouses from this class now and feel confident to start making my own design changes now.

Great class to learn how to build a sloper then make variations on it. I have made many blouses from this class now and feel confident to start making my own design changes now.

Lots of information, great class

by Sewphistic8ed on May 20, 2015

This class makes beginning pattern making very approachable by starting with a simple blouse, turning it into a blouse sloper and then the instructor presents various options for collars, closures and cuffs. She is very well prepared and steps you through the changes in a very logical, calm fashion. For anyone who has previously only used commercial patterns and thought all design details in a commercial pattern are cut in stone, this is a great class to open up ideas and easy to achieve ...

This class makes beginning pattern making very approachable by starting with a simple blouse, turning it into a blouse sloper and then the instructor presents various options for collars, closures and cuffs. She is very well prepared and steps you through the changes in a very logical, calm fashion. For anyone who has previously only used commercial patterns and thought all design details in a commercial pattern are cut in stone, this is a great class to open up ideas and easy to achieve options for a basic blouse pattern.