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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Nancy Zieman's Santa Fe Dress Pattern (with Giveaway!)

Well, I am just tickled pink (ha!) to have been asked to participate in the blog tour of one of my sewing heroines, Nancy Zieman herself. She's launching a new book, Sew Knits with Confidence, as well as four new patterns specifically designed for knits. Read on for my version of her knit dress design, plus a lovely giveaway of the book and all four patterns!

Nancy's publisher sent me a copy of the book plus the patterns, so that I could choose one to make. I was super excited to read Nancy's tips on sewing with knits--they've become more and more part of my wardrobe, fabric stash, and plans for my own next book, which has a casual twist. But I was also very impressed by the four patterns. I think there's something for every type of seamstress in this selection. I chose the Santa Fe dress, mostly because it reminded me of a simple knit dress I owned from Anthropologie and wore til its tragic death.

But I was also incredibly tempted by the skirt and top in the Monterey collection. So cute!

The dress won out, probably because I'm in a summer wardrobe state of mind. But both these patterns provide particular opportunities for the retro-loving seamstress, in my opinion. I chose view A of the Santa Fe, which is dress-length and sleeveless. For my fabric, I used a black organic cotton jersey (purchased here and highly recommended).

First let me say this is a FAST project. I started cutting it at 2:30 in the afternoon, and was setting up my camera to take pictures at 4:30--and that includes time for fitting and style changes!

I chose to make the size small, knowing from experience that I like my knits to have little to no ease. However, I used the length and flare of the XL size, since I like my skirts swingy and on the longer side.

The bodice came together super quickly.

When trying it on, I found an easy way to "retro-fy" this design: pinching the neckline pleats to each side and stitching them in place to make a sweetheart neckline.

While I do like the original design very much, I think this small change makes it way more me.

Seriously, all I did was pull the neckline pleats to the side in a pinch. Then I used some black embroidery floss to stitch it in place by wrapping it around the pinch. You could also add buttons or small brooches here!

The other change I made was to nip the dress in at the waist. It had a very flowy empire silhouette and I knew a more dramatic waistline would work well for me. I started by chalking in just an inch on each side, machine basting it, and then trying on. I eventually took two inches out of each waistline side, tapering down in a straight line to the hem (I got rid of that hip curve you see below since it has a distinctly fin-like appearance on the body).

Here's the overall result. Hopefully Nancy won't shun me for bastardizing her pattern! The changes were fairly small but resulted in a garment I'm in love with.

Easy to dress up or down, and all sorts of other fashion clichés that I won't subject you to.

The back has a basic high scoop neckline.

The pattern instructions were great, explaining all the ins and outs of sewing with knits. I learned that jersey curls to the right side of the fabric--good to know!

I love the little notes from Nancy throughout! She tells you how to sew with either a sewing machine or serger, and even specifies when to use one over the other (for instance, she suggests sewing the bodice pleats on the machine for more control, then switching to the serger for easier bits like the side seams). I did use my serger, but it's definitely not necessary.

I'll definitely be sewing this dress again since it's perfect for summer (and for standing awkwardly with armchair).

Okay, now for the giveaway! Nancy's publisher provided me with a copy of the new book Sew Knits with Confidenceas well as ALL four new patterns to give to one lucky reader. Please leave a comment here by the end of the day on Wednesday, April 24th. All countries eligible. Make sure that you link to your blog or include a way for me to get in touch with you in your comment!

I'm going to be eagerly following the blog tour to see what everyone else comes up with. Good luck in the giveaway!

I love the knit dresses I've made in the past (all from the same pattern-- so I need a change ;-)); so comfy, yet they look great. This dress looks awesome, and I think the changes you made are perfect for your style. I learned a lot by seeing what you did :)~NatalieQSOgirl at yahoo dot com

Great give away! I have just recently decided gotten a serger and have been experimenting with using it for garments. I love that there are serger tips in the book! I would love to be more confident in my skills. I have a pile of knits that I bought last summer but have been too chicken to use. maybe this book would be what I need to break out the scissors?

Ooh I'd really love to get started with knits soon!! Especially as the summers turn pretty hot here. To me, wearing a knit dress is a way to dress nice while still feeling like you're in your pj's, hehehe. ;)

Thanks so much for the opportunity! That dress looks amazing on you. :)

I love the changes you made to this pattern. The dress looks great on you.

Knits don't tend to be my friend, and I've been thinking that maybe they would be if I learned how to sew them the right way, instead of just making it up as I go! I'd love to win this prize to help me make this a reality.

You did a great job with this dress, the modifications are perfect to make it look very retro! Just started my own vintage blog, and I think you're very inspiring! Kind regards from Switzerland, Mrs. Button

Just finished my own first knit dress, and while I'm really proud of the beautiful finish, I'm a bit underwhelmed by the "shapeless" look on me... Now your dress and Nancy's patterns, on the other hand, look spot on and I sure would like to try my hand at those! (Fingers crossed you'll need this: depnerds at gmail.com).

Lovely dress! I really like the neckline change you made. It might be simple but it has a great impact.Than you for this giveaway! It comes at a perfect time, since I'm now 5 months pregnant and looking for comfy yet nice looking clothes. Plus it was one of my goals for this year to learn to sew with knits. Fingers crossed! Here is my email: lholy_chan [at] yahoo [dot] fr

I used to sew with knits pretty frequently until I busted up my serger. until then I'm not as confident anymore as my regular machine just eats it. a book would be most appreciated, god knows I need all the help I can get!

I've only sewn with knits for a year, so would love to read the tips of a pro! The patterns seems really cute as well =)Thank you for hosting the giveaway, I'll be keeping my fingers crossed!(mail: b_akire (at) yahoo (dot) se)

I've been wanting to learn more about sewing with knits and I'd love this book! Your dress looks fantastic, it's always fascinating how such small changes can make such a big difference in the final style!

I love how a subtle change makes the dress look like a completely different design! It looks fabulous on you :) I would love to be entered in the giveaway. I dream of sewing with knits but have been too nervous to try yet. This would be a lovely way to dive in!

Hi! I was looking online for some knit patterns that didn't terrify me, as I've just bought some stripey jersey that I want to make a dress from, when this post popped up on Bloglovin and saved the day, thanks!millymoo515@hotmail.com

This would be absolutely perfect! I'm just started to get into knits sewing and I'm sure there's lots of stuff I need to know to go forward! Great giveaway :D And I'll have to remember this knitwear pattern designer for the future as well.

I really love what you did with that dress patter also - I'll have to remember how easy it is to alter things simply to make them more individual!

I love that you made the pattern your own! I was inspired enough to take a trip to the thrift store and bought waaay too many patterns hoping to make small changes with big impact like you did. ewronkowski@gmail.com

I just started getting back into knits (one of Steph C’s patterns), and so far, I love it! The Santa Fe looks right up my alley, but I would really love the tips and tricks in the book. Thanks for the opportunity and showing us how easy tweaks to a pattern can make something cool bump over to totally awesome!

Wow! I used to watch "Sewing with Nancy" all the time and still turn to videos of the show when tackling certain projects. I have recently been getting more into knits, and as an expectant mom I think they will play a bigger role in my future wardrobe. The book and patterns would be great resources.

I can't believe what a dramatic difference it made to just pinch the straps in. Well done; it definitely has a more "retro" flavor! (btw, totally going to be copying that mod on some rtw knit tops I have that I don't love, yet!)

And the easy pattern bastardization is what makes knits so awesome! Just SO easy to adjust, and I think you exemplified that, here. =D

I'm so excited to hear about Nancy's new book and patterns. I would love to learn more about sewing with knits and I'm glad Nancy is including instructions for both sewing machines and sergers. Thank you Nancy! And thank you Gertie for the give-a-way.

I'd love to win Nancy's book and patterns. Your post certainly highlighted the versatility of her Santa Fe dress; your sewing ingenuity changed this dress with very little work. If you made this up as designed in a print fabric, I doubt anyone would even realize it was the same pattern. Please count me (nwoods70 at gmail) in on the giveaway.

That dress is gorgeous and I think you did a great job by improving the style of it. What a clever idea to change the neckline a bit! I have started to sew more jersey knit fabric. Since I'm a bit overweight I think these clothes are more comfortable.

That dress, with your changes, is so very you!!! I really like the original pattern, but also love sweetheart necklines. I look forward to seeing what else you make this pattern up in. Thanks for the ideas! (fmgill at ogmasala dot com)

I spent last week in an epic battle with my first knit shirt. The fabric curled at the edges the instant I cut it; my neckband seams went all wonky...several times; and when I tried to unpick them I tore the fabric and had to start over.

I wear knits all the time, and I would love to learn how to work with them.

Love the the dress! I am a beginner and this book and patterns would definitely inspire me! :) I just ordered some beautiful fabric from Mood to make my first "real" garment! Thanks for the great giveaway!

I would love to learn knits - I generally like the way they fit, they can be so forgiving, but I've been hesitant to try sewing something up myself. ebthorn(at)gmail(dot)com. Thanks! I love how you made the dress all you!

Ooooh! LOVE this style of clothes; easy, swingy and Summer! Can you tell I'm getting a little stir-crazy with all the crummy weather? ;^) Well, it's good for being inside and sewing, at least! Thanks for the giveaway and great mods on your dress!

I would love to win this! After many years of not sewing, I am trying to get back to making clothes and I am taking an online knits sewing class to get me started. This would be a fabulous addition! You dress looks so cute!!

Oh my gosh! What a great giveaway! Although I love sewing with woven fabrics, I really wear my knit garments so much more, so I'm super excited about new patterns geared for knits, especially from Nancy Zieman herself!

What a fantastic book idea! I know people say knits are easy but I find them slightly intimidating. And I've been looking for a pattern like the Santa Fe Dress for a while but haven't been happy with what I found- this shows much more promise

Nothing like a cute dress that is quick to sew in case a special occasion comes up & you find you have nothing to wear. Your adaptation & the photos are great & an inspiration for others to make the pattern their own.

you made that dress sooo you.I have been a little afraid of knits and would love her tips and patterns to practice with. can't wait to check out the blog tour.http://wwwthedistracteddomestic.blogspot.com

That dress looks a lot like cheap dress I have from Target. It's totally comfortable and I'd love to be able to replicate it in other colors (and better fabric). Clearly I need to learn to sew with knits so I can wean my closet of the cheap X from Target.

Lovely giveaway and lovely dress! I've tried sewing with knits a few times but have never been that happy with the results but hope the book and patterns might help me make some things I can actually be proud of. :)sissiri at hotmail dot com

I would LOVE this opportunity. I've been recovering from neural damage and am using sewing as a way to assist me. I'm feeling really good about the progress to date, but knits - YIKES! I would love to learn from the awesome Nancy, and those are some CUTE patterns, too!

This dress is perfect! I would love to throw my hat into the ring for a copy of Nancy's new book and patterns. She's one of my sewing heroes, as well, and her home base is only about 50 miles from where I live!

What a lovely dress! I need a great knit dress for the upcoming months, and this looks like a great one for me! I'm particularly interested in the book, as I am a novice seamstress and need all of the helpful tips I can get. Thanks for the giveaway!!

Ooh, fabulous dress, both the original and your version; yours would be a great way to show off a pair of vintage dress clips!I have some very nice ponti just waiting for the right pattern, so I'd love to be included in the giveaway; sushidog@livejournal.com will reach me!

I learned to sew with Nancy back when I was in college! Now that I'm getting back into it, I've been ordering supplies from her site. I'm a huge fan of knits, so I like the idea of this new series. I'm at shmcpa (at) yahoo (dot) com.

Wow!! The dress looks amazing on you and the changes are so simple and yet really stunning.Would love to have the book and patterns myself to really get to grips with sewing knits.louisebibbings@gmail.com