If you “train” more than you do your sport then you’re probably confusing the reasons you train. Which is OK; “training” can be a sport. Crossfit is a sport in my mind, and I respect those athletes because they train with meaning and intensity and then (mostly) leave that in the gym. But there’s some dissonance between thinking you’re training for a sport and then never actually doing the sport you’re training for.

The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com. This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all. It’s mostly in the fingers and core.