Customer Question

Generally this job is not horrible to do. But having a lift helps. If not, the vehicle must be properly (restrained) and lifted to avoid injury. Wheel chocks and redundant jack stands would be in order.

You need to remove the front tire, on side of axle to be replaced. You need to remove axle cotter pin and cage/retainer - if so equipped. Break free axle nut, while brake is applied. (if you have no air tools) Remove outer tie rod from knuckle but leave secured to inner tie rod and rack. (simply break taper and remove from knuckle) Lastly, break lower or upper pivot, (whichever is most practical) so the knuckle/hub and brake caliper/rotor assemblies may be moved around as needed. Now push axle/out CV OUT of hub splines, working front to back. (towards trans)

Generally, I pull towards me, & turn, knuckle/hub assembly - as I force the outer CV spline out of hub. I do it simultaneously. If the outer CV is frozen in hub spray with rust penetrant and try again. You may put the nut back on to flush - so as not to damage threads, and use a hammer to break free. Or a drift, in center hole, with a hammer. Once free, slide it out the back - and pull knuckle and brake assembly to side and secure. Under car, axle is held into trans with circlip. Put pan under to catch any fluid (won't be much) and gently pry inner CV from trans with a pry bar and 'pop free' from trans, to remove. Reverse to install. If you need me I'm here. Clean all lubricants off brake rotor and other brake parts, as needed, on reassembly. Use brake clean but use carefully in well ventilated area. Do not breath in. Thanks.

I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.

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