Ducks for Preppers

Have you heard? Ducks
are the new chickens!

For Preppers keeping chickens has
become all the rage. Whether it’s wanting to know where their food is
coming from, a desire to be more self-sufficient or merely wanting to go
back to the basics, chicken coops are popping up in suburban backyards
of families all across the country.

But might ducks actually be
the better choice? Here are 10 reasons I prefer raising ducks to raising
chickens:

Because they
spend so much of their time
in the water, ducks are less
apt to get mites, lice and
other external parasites.
Ducks also have hardier
immune systems, tend to stay
in better general health and
are less likely to contract
illnesses than chickens.

2. Ducks love
the cold

Ducks have an
added layer of fat and a
thick down ‘undercoat’ that
chickens don’t have. They
also have waterproofing on
their feathers to protect
against the elements and
keep them warm and dry in
the rain and snow.

3. Ducks are heat tolerant

Ducks handle
heat quite well by floating
around in their pool all
day. During the hot southern
summers we endure, while our
chickens stand around
panting, crowded in front of
the fans we have set up in
our run, the ducks paddle
about quite contentedly in
their pool.

4. Ducks
quack, but don't raise a
ruckus

Maybe hard to
believe, but our chickens
actually make more noise
than our ducks. Chickens
cackle and carry on after
they lay an egg, before they
lay an egg, when there’s
another hen in the nesting
box they want, and for no
apparent reason at all.
Female ducks on the other
hand, although can quack
loudly when agitated or
excited, normally just
quietly chitter-chatter.

Roosters,
contrary to popular belief,
don’t just crow in the
morning. They crow all day
long. In contrast, drakes
(male ducks) don’t quack at
all. They make only a soft
raspy wheezing sound. On the
whole, ducks are much
quieter.

5. Duck eggs are larger and better for baking

Duck eggs are larger and richer in flavor than chicken eggs. They are excellent for baking due to their higher fat and lower water content. Duck eggs are also slightly more nutritious than chicken eggs. Due to their thicker shells and membranes, they also have a longer shelf life and are less likely to break than chicken eggs.

6. Ducks lay
more regularly

Our ducks
consistently outlay our
chickens – even through the
winter without any
supplemental light in their
house. Most domestic duck
breeds are also very
unlikely to go broody (broodies
don’t lay eggs, so they are
detrimental to your egg
production).

7. Ducks
are far less
territorial

Ducks welcome
newcomers far more quickly
than chickens do. Whether
the newcomers are chickens
or ducks, our ducks seem
unperturbed and seldom
bother new additions to the
flock. Chickens, however,
take any new additions to
the flock as an affront to
their rigid pecking order.
The result is squabbling and
confrontations that can get
quite serious until the new
order is established and
tranquility returns.

8. Ducks are
easier on your lanscaping

While it’s
true that ducks can, and
will, eat anything green
within their reach, as long
as you plant bushes and
trees that are tall enough
so they can’t reach the
tops, you can successfully
landscape your run or
backyard, even with ducks
inhabiting it. Chickens, on
the other hand, within days
of being introduced to a new
lawn will have it scratched
down to bare dirt. Chickens
will continue to not only
eat every bit of green that
tries to grow, but also dig
deep depressions in the
earth in which to take their
dust baths or cool off in
the summer. Ducks may
trample your lawn a bit, but
they won’t create a barren
wasteland of your backyard
like chickens will.

9. Ducks love bugs

Ducks will eat every slug, worm, spider, grasshopper, cricket, fly, beetle and grub they can find. They are wonderful for natural pest control. Given the opportunity, they will also eat small snakes, toads and even mice. Chickens are more picky about the fare of bugs. Some of our hens won’t even look twice at a worm.

10. Ducklings are adorable!

Okay, this is my personal preference, but baby ducklings are irresistible.

On the whole, ducks are far more easy-going and less likely to get their feathers ruffled than chickens. They are generally calm, smart, alert and downright funny at times. Ducks win out as my top choice for a backyard flock and they will always be an important part of ours.

Tips on raising ducks:

Housing and Pen

The majority of domestic ducks can’t fly. They were intentionally bred to be heavier than their wild counterparts mainly so they wouldn’t be able to fly away from the farms where they were being raised and also so they would dress out better as table birds. This leaves them extremely vulnerable to predators such as foxes, raccoons and dogs. Ungainly and cumbersome on dry land, ducks aren’t able to escape these predators, so as backyard duck keepers it is our responsibility to provide them with a safe, secure place to live.

Your duck housing needs to be secure from predators, but other than that, ducks are extremely cold-hardy so any structure you provide for them doesn’t need to be completely enclosed (as long as it is inside a secure run/pen) and won’t need any type of heat in the winter. Four square feet of floor space per duck should be adequate inside the house as long as they are not confined to it for extended periods of time. Since ducks love both rain and snow, they don’t spend many waking hours indoors.

A layer of straw will suffice for bedding and nesting material. Ducks don’t perch like chickens and will nestle down in the straw instead to sleep. The straw should be changed out regularly, but always removed immediately if it is wet or if there is any whiff of an ammonia smell.

A duck nesting box should be approximately 16” square, although in my experience ducks won’t necessarily use it. In fact, our ducks prefer large wooden boxes filled with straw, but they aren’t very concerned about privacy or a dedicated nesting area and seem just as happy making a nest in a corner of their house in the straw.

Diet

Special waterfowl pellets are available in some areas, but regular chicken layer feed is fine for laying ducks. However, ducks (especially growing ducklings) need more niacin than chickens do, so adding brewer’s yeast to their feed in a 5% ratio is recommended. Ducklings grow extremely fast and the niacin helps their bones develop correctly.

Feed should be set out in wide tubs or containers that can’t be tipped over. We use metal pans and stoneware bowls, setting out several at a time so all the ducks can eat at once. A grown duck will eat 4-6 ounces of feed per day so I try to measure out the correct amount, but that amount varies by time of year (they eat more in the winter, less in the summer when weeds and bugs are more readily available). Water should always be provided near the feed. Leftover feed at the end of day should be discarded if it has gotten wet.

Leafy greens are an important part of a duck’s diet. I start our ducklings off young getting used to cut weeds and grass, lettuce and Swiss chard. Ducks won’t eat wilted greens, so I put the ‘salad’ in their water tub. It stays nice and fresh that way and keeps them occupied dabbling for the leafy treats. Ducks also enjoy fresh peas or corn kernels, cucumber pieces, watermelon and cut tomatoes. Grit (coarse sand or dirt) should always be provided to ducks to assist in grinding the food in their gizzard.

Once your ducks reach laying age (generally around 6 months), crushed oyster shell or eggshell should be provided in a separate container free-choice so each duck can eat what she needs for strong eggshells.

- See more at: http://www.hgtvgardens.com/ducks-and-geese/raising-ducks-a-primer-on-duck-housing-diet-and-health#sthash.sM9f3Q5L.dpuf

Diet

Special waterfowl pellets are available in some areas, but regular chicken layer feed is fine for laying ducks. However, ducks (especially growing ducklings) need more niacin than chickens do, so adding brewer’s yeast to their feed in a 5% ratio is recommended. Ducklings grow extremely fast and the niacin helps their bones develop correctly.

Feed should be set out in wide tubs or containers that can’t be tipped over. We use metal pans and stoneware bowls, setting out several at a time so all the ducks can eat at once. A grown duck will eat 4-6 ounces of feed per day so I try to measure out the correct amount, but that amount varies by time of year (they eat more in the winter, less in the summer when weeds and bugs are more readily available). Water should always be provided near the feed. Leftover feed at the end of day should be discarded if it has gotten wet.

Leafy greens are an important part of a duck’s diet. I start our ducklings off young getting used to cut weeds and grass, lettuce and Swiss chard. Ducks won’t eat wilted greens, so I put the ‘salad’ in their water tub. It stays nice and fresh that way and keeps them occupied dabbling for the leafy treats. Ducks also enjoy fresh peas or corn kernels, cucumber pieces, watermelon and cut tomatoes. Grit (coarse sand or dirt) should always be provided to ducks to assist in grinding the food in their gizzard.

Once your ducks reach laying age (generally around 6 months), crushed oyster shell or eggshell should be provided in a separate container free-choice so each duck can eat what she needs for strong eggshells.

- See more at: http://www.hgtvgardens.com/ducks-and-geese/raising-ducks-a-primer-on-duck-housing-diet-and-health#sthash.sM9f3Q5L.dpuf

Diet

Special waterfowl pellets are available in some areas, but regular chicken layer feed is fine for laying ducks. However, ducks (especially growing ducklings) need more niacin than chickens do, so adding brewer’s yeast to their feed in a 5% ratio is recommended. Ducklings grow extremely fast and the niacin helps their bones develop correctly.

Feed should be set out in wide tubs or containers that can’t be tipped over. We use metal pans and stoneware bowls, setting out several at a time so all the ducks can eat at once. A grown duck will eat 4-6 ounces of feed per day so I try to measure out the correct amount, but that amount varies by time of year (they eat more in the winter, less in the summer when weeds and bugs are more readily available). Water should always be provided near the feed. Leftover feed at the end of day should be discarded if it has gotten wet.

- See more at: http://www.hgtvgardens.com/ducks-and-geese/raising-ducks-a-primer-on-duck-housing-diet-and-health#sthash.sM9f3Q5L.dpuf

Special waterfowl pellets are available in some areas, but regular chicken layer feed is fine for laying ducks. However, ducks (especially growing ducklings) need more niacin than chickens do, so adding brewer’s yeast to their feed in a 5% ratio is recommended. Ducklings grow extremely fast and the niacin helps their bones develop correctly.

Feed should be set out in wide tubs or containers that can’t be tipped over. We use metal pans and stoneware bowls, setting out several at a time so all the ducks can eat at once. A grown duck will eat 4-6 ounces of feed per day so I try to measure out the correct amount, but that amount varies by time of year (they eat more in the winter, less in the summer when weeds and bugs are more readily available). Water should always be provided near the feed. Leftover feed at the end of day should be discarded if it has gotten wet.

Leafy greens are an important part of a duck’s diet. Ducks won’t eat wilted greens, so I put the ‘salad’ in their water tub. It stays nice and fresh that way and keeps them occupied dabbling for the leafy treats. Ducks also enjoy fresh peas or corn kernels, cucumber pieces, watermelon and cut tomatoes. Grit (coarse sand or dirt) should always be provided to ducks to assist in grinding the food in their gizzard.

Once your ducks reach laying age (generally around 6 months), crushed oyster shell or eggshell should be provided in a separate container free-choice so each duck can eat what she needs for strong eggshells.