Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Seizures can be upsetting to watch but are usually over quickly. A pet that has had a seizure for the first time should see a veterinarian. Seizures that last longer than 5 minutes or that happen in clusters (2 or more seizures in a day) are emergencies.

What Is a Seizure?Seizures are involuntary movements caused by abnormal electrical activity in the brain. How a seizure looks depends on the type of seizure.

Generalized seizures

These seizures are convulsions of the whole body. The animal falls over, loses consciousness, and paddles the legs. The legs may also be held out straight and stiff during part of the seizure. The animal might urinate and defecate.

Focal (partial) seizures

Focal seizures affect only part of the body. The animal might twitch a face muscle, make jaw motions that look like chewing, or have leg tremors. The animal might or might not lose consciousness. Focal seizures can be subtle and easy to miss. A seizure that begins as a focal seizure can become generalized.

Psychomotor (behavioral) seizures

These seizures cause unusual behavior, not muscle twitching. Animals with psychomotor seizures are in an altered state of consciousness but don’t lose consciousness. Possible signs include disorientation, “spacing out,” aggression, hiding, biting at the air or the body, apparent blindness, chewing motions, and vomiting.

Is It a Seizure?Some other conditions can look like seizures. Heart disease can cause fainting spells that look very similar to seizures. Other nervous system disorders, orthopedic problems, pain responses, trembling, and even extreme itching can mimic seizures.

If your pet has an episode of unusual movement or behavior, you don’t have to decide whether it was a seizure. Take your pet to a veterinarian and be prepared to describe the episode in as much detail as possible. A video can be very helpful. The veterinarian will ask how long the episode lasted, what your pet did (paddling the legs, urinating, etc), and whether your pet had access to toxins or medications before the episode. Your veterinarian will also need to know if your pet has had seizures before and if so, your pet’s age at the first seizure.

A true seizure is followed by a period of disorientation or other unusual behavior. Watch for this phase and tell your veterinarian if you see it. True seizures also begin with an aura phase (nervousness, seeking attention), but pet owners don’t often witness this phase.

Causes of SeizuresThe many possible causes of seizures can be classified as things outside the brain (problems elsewhere in the body that affect brain function), things inside the brain (structural problems with the brain itself), or epilepsy.

Primary epilepsy: seizures that happen on their own and are not caused by something else

Primary epilepsy is the most common diagnosis in dogs that start having seizures between the ages of about 6 months and 6 years. It is genetic in some breeds but can happen in dogs of any breed. Primary epilepsy is uncommon in cats. Dogs with primary epilepsy seem normal between seizures. Not being normal between seizures could be a sign that the seizure is caused by something else.

Veterinarians perform diagnostic tests to look for the cause of the seizure and rule out other conditions that mimic seizures. Primary epilepsy is diagnosed by not finding another cause for the seizure. Your veterinarian might recommend referring your pet to a veterinary neurologist.

Don’t hug your pet. Touch won’t stop the seizure, and you could get hurt.

Time the seizure.

Note what your pet does during the seizure. Record a video if possible (although most seizures are too sudden and short for this).

Take your pet to a veterinary clinic immediately if the seizure lasts longer than 5 minutes or if your pet has a series of 2 or more seizures.

If your pet has had a seizure before, start a seizure log. Record the date, duration, and description of each seizure.

Seizure TreatmentTreatment depends on the cause of the seizure. Dogs with epilepsy generally have repeat seizures, and the choice of medication depends on the frequency and severity of the seizures. Epilepsy is a lifelong condition that can be managed but can’t be cured, so dogs with epilepsy usually need medication for life. Whatever the cause of the seizure, work in partnership with your veterinarian to develop your pet’s treatment plan. Anticonvulsant medication has specific dosage requirements, so don’t change the dose or timing of your pet’s medication without consulting your veterinarian.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Toxins from algae in a pond killed 3 dogs in Wilmington earlier this month. The same type of algae has been found in a public park pond in Charlotte. The only way to know if algae is harmful is by testing the water in a laboratory, so for safety, keep your dog away from all scummy or discolored water.

Harmful Algal BloomsAlgae are tiny plantlike organisms that live in water. Some algae produce toxins that cause serious illness. Under certain conditions, algae grow quickly into collections called algal blooms. Algal blooms are most likely to form in warm water that is high in nutrients like nitrogen. Hot weather and stagnant water increase the chance of algal growth.

Algal blooms can form in either fresh or salt water. The most common type of harmful algae in fresh water is cyanobacteria, or blue-green algae. Another type of algae causes red tide in salt water.

Avoid water with signs of potentially harmful algal blooms:

Green, blue-green, or red-brown water

Discoloration that looks like a paint spill on the surface of the water

Scum, foam, or mats floating on the water

Unpleasant odor (although dogs might not mind the smell)

Dead fish

Symptoms of ExposurePeople and animals can be exposed to algal toxins through skin contact with contaminated water, by drinking contaminated water or eating contaminated food (like fish), or by inhaling water droplets in windblown spray. Dogs are typically exposed when they play or wade at the edges of bodies of water with algal blooms.

Not all algal blooms are toxic. But with some types of algae, exposure to only a small amount of toxin can be fatal within hours or days. Algal toxins can damage the liver, nervous system, kidneys, and digestive tract. Symptoms depend on the type of toxin and the amount of exposure and include the following:

Irritation of the skin, eyes, nose, or throat

Vomiting or diarrhea

Weakness

Difficulty breathing

Stumbling or staggering

Tremors

Paralysis

Seizures

Coma

What to Do if Your Pet Is ExposedIf your dog comes in contact with questionable fresh or salt water, bathe or at least rinse him off with clean (tap) water right away, before he licks his fur. Take precautions to avoid exposure to yourself; wear gloves or wash your hands after rinsing your dog.

Take your dog to a veterinary clinic if she has swallowed water containing algae or has licked her fur after wading in water with an algal bloom. Symptoms of toxin exposure constitute a medical emergency, so seek veterinary care immediately if your dog is vomiting or stumbling after water contact.

PreventionThe Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and the NC Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) recommend these precautions:

Keep pets away from water that is scummy/discolored or contains dead fish.

Rinse off pets that have had contact with potentially contaminated water.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Cats need to scratch objects. Scratching is normal for cats, and even declawed cats engage in this instinctive behavior. You can’t train your cat not to scratch, and it wouldn’t be humane to try. But there are ways to direct your cat’s scratching so she’ll scratch more where you want her to and less where you don’t.

Why Cats ScratchUnderstanding why cats scratch helps us figure out how to convince them to use a scratching post and not the sofa.

Cats have a physical need to scratch. Scratching grooms the nails, flexes the claw-retracting apparatus, and stretches the muscles.

Scratching is also a communication method for cats. Cats are territorial, and scratching is one way they mark their territory. When cats scratch, they leave visual signs (scratch marks) and scents (from glands in their paws) as signals for other animals.

Anxiety—for example, from conflict with other pets—can increase a cat’s marking behaviors. If your cat is clawing the furniture more than usual, stress is a possible reason. Punishing a cat for scratching could certainly increase his anxiety level.

Giving Cats Things to ScratchCats have individual preferences for scratching surfaces. The right type of scratching post is whatever type your cat likes best. You might need to try several before finding your cat’s favorite. Here are some general tips:

Scratching posts should be located wherever the cat feels the urge to scratch. Providing multiple posts is a great idea, especially if you have more than one cat. Possible locations are where the cat sleeps, where the cat spends a lot of time, at edges of the cat’s territory (near windows, for example), and wherever the cat has been scratching other things.

Most cats like vertical scratching surfaces, although some prefer to scratch horizontally. Look where your cat has been scratching. If he scratches furniture legs, he would probably like a vertical post. If he scratches the carpet, he might like a horizontal scratching pad.

The scratching post should be tall enough let the cat reach up and stretch full length.

The scratching post should be stable enough not to wobble if the cat jumps on it.

Most cats like sisal as a scratching surface. Some prefer corrugated cardboard, wood, bark, carpet, or rough fabric.

To encourage your cat to use the scratching post, try these ideas:

Dangle a toy from the post.

Apply catnip to the post.

Use a synthetic feline pheromone product specifically meant to encourage scratching (one includes a color indicator that gives cats a visual stimulus for marking territory). Read the packaging first. Some feline pheromone products are intended to stop cats from scratching, so use those on your furniture, not the scratching post.

Reward your cat with petting, praise, or food for using the scratching post.

Keeping Cats From Scratching Other Things

Don’t punish or yell at your cat for scratching. This could increase her anxiety and cause her to scratch more.

Put an attractive (to your cat) scratching post right next to the object you want her to stop scratching. Furniture protectors made of cat-friendly scratching material are available to cover furniture legs and couch corners. Be proud of your new decor.

Use a synthetic feline pheromone product meant to discourage scratching (don’t use it on the scratching post).

Remove the object you don’t want your cat to scratch or cover it with something that is unattractive to your cat (like sticky tape or a smooth covering). Be sure you’ve provided an attractive alternative first.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Dog urine can turn grass yellow or brown. Lots of other things can also cause grass to die or change color, so before you blame your dog, make sure the grass spots really are caused by dog urine (you might need to consult a lawn care specialist).

Why Does Urine Discolor Grass?Dog urine contains nitrogen, which is produced by the body’s normal breakdown of protein. Nitrogen helps plants grow, but too much nitrogen damages plants, causing “burn” or “scald.” Fertilizers are designed to deliver the right amount of nitrogen at specific application rates. A small amount of nitrogen from dog urine can act as a fertilizer, so a patch of urine-scalded lawn might be surrounded by a ring of healthy green grass where the urine was less concentrated.

Urine also contains salts and is often a bit acidic. Salts and acid can damage plants, but nitrogen is the main reason that urine discolors grass.

Female dogs may be more likely than male dogs to cause urine spots on grass because they usually urinate large amounts in one location. Male dogs tend to urinate small volumes in lots of different places. But male dogs who urinate a lot in one area can also cause lawn burn.

How to Prevent Urine Spots on GrassIf urine spots on the lawn are new for your dog, consult your veterinarian. Your dog might need a urinalysis to check for a medical problem, like a urinary tract infection, that has changed the properties of the urine.

Don’t treat a healthy dog for a grass problem. Don’t change to a low-protein diet or feed any supplements or foods that claim to change the urine chemistry or pH (unless your veterinarian has diagnosed a medical condition that needs these treatments). These products could be risky for a dog who doesn’t need them and probably won’t solve the grass discoloration anyway.

These methods are safe for your dog:

Train your dog to urinate in a designated area. A patch of mulch or gravel is a good choice. This method takes time and patience but has a major advantage: it keeps your lawn free of pet waste that could be a health hazard for people.

Dilute the urine on the grass by watering the area right after your dog urinates (consider using water collected from a rain barrel to reduce water waste).

Consult a landscaper about using ground covers that are resistant to urine scald. Some plants are less prone than others to being discolored by urine. A landscaper can also help you create an attractive dog toilet area.

Learn to live with yellow spots in your grass as a small price to pay for the fun of having a dog.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Leptospirosis is a disease caused by infection with Leptospira bacteria. The disease is zoonotic, meaning that it can pass from animals to humans. The bacteria are spread through the urine of infected animals and can remain in water or soil for months.

Who’s at RiskMany different animals can carry Leptospira. Rodents are the most common sources of infection in people. Farm animals, wild animals, and dogs can also be carriers. (Cats are very rarely infected.)

Leptospirosis is a public health hazard for people around the world. People are most often infected through contact with contaminated water, including recreational contact like swimming. Heavy rainfall and flooding increase the risk. Other routes of infection are direct contact with animal urine and contact with contaminated soil or food.[1,2]

Dogs are infected the same way as people: through contact with urine, contaminated soil, or contaminated objects. Dogs can also be infected by eating infected animals. Pregnant dogs can pass the infection to puppies through the placenta.[3]

Dogs are at increased risk for leptospirosis if they have access to any of the following:

Bodies of water (lakes, ponds, rivers, creeks, etc)

Areas where rodents live, including urban areas and backyards

Rural areas

Farms with livestock or horses

Areas with wildlife

Other dogs, especially in crowded or unclean conditions

Leptospirosis was once considered a disease mostly of working dogs and other outdoor dogs. But small-breed dogs that live in cities and have no access to outdoor water sources are also at risk because rodents carry the disease.[3]

SymptomsLeptospirosis causes a wide range of problems, including kidney failure, liver failure, lung disease, eye damage, blood clotting disorders, and death. Some dogs infected with Leptospira have mild disease or no symptoms at all. The severity of disease depends on the Leptospira strain and the dog’s immune system, among other factors.

Leptospira infection can be diagnosed with blood tests. Dogs suspected of having leptospirosis generally also need other tests, such as urinalysis, x-ray examination, and ultrasound.[3]

TreatmentDogs with leptospirosis are treated with antibiotics. Most require hospitalization for supportive care and intravenous fluid treatment. The prognosis is good for most dogs that are treated early in the course of disease. Dogs with kidney failure that is not aggressively treated and those with lung complications have a poorer chance of survival.

Dogs with leptospirosis can infect people and other dogs. People handling infected dogs should take precautions like wearing protective clothing and avoiding contact with the urine.

PreventionLeptospira vaccines are available for dogs. Talk to your veterinarian about your dog’s risk for leptospirosis. In some geographic areas, veterinarians recommend leptospirosis vaccination for all dogs, including those that live mostly indoors.

Other precautions to reduce the risk of infection are washing hands after handling dogs, wearing gloves when cleaning or collecting dog urine, and using antibacterial solutions to clean surfaces that might be contaminated with urine. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention recommends avoiding contact with contaminated water (don’t wade barefoot in floodwater!) or wearing protective clothing around potentially contaminated water or soil.[1]

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

A recent study of 114 recipes for homemade diets for cats found that all of the diets were nutritionally inadequate in some way.[1] Most of the recipes, which were either posted online or published in books, were deficient in at least 1 nutrient. Some recipes included ingredients (like onions and garlic) that are toxic to cats. Other studies have found similar problems in recipes for home-cooked diets for dogs.[2-4]

Some pet owners choose to make their own dog or cat food because of a pet with food allergies, a desire to feed natural products, a distrust of commercial pet food, or another reason. Preparing dog and cat food at home is time-consuming and expensive, and owners who undertake it generally just want to take good care of their pets. Dogs and cats rarely require home-prepared diets, but if you decide to make your pet’s food yourself, check the resources for safe recipes at the end of this article.

Potential Problems With Homemade Pet FoodRecipes for home-prepared dog and cat diets are often not nutritionally complete and balanced. Deficiencies in nutrients like iron, taurine, and calcium can lead to anemia, heart disease, and bone disease. Because many recipes are deficient in the same nutrients, rotating among different diets and ingredients won’t necessarily balance the diet.

Home-prepared diets must be supplemented with the right mix of vitamins and minerals. General-purpose multivitamins for dogs or cats are usually not sufficient for pets eating homemade diets. Some vitamin supplements are made for pets eating fortified commercial diets, not those eating homemade diets with lower vitamin and mineral levels.

Oversupplementation is also a possible problem. Too much vitamin D, for example, can damage the kidneys. The choice and amount of nutrients to include in a supplement depend on the ingredients of the chosen diet.

Some homemade diet recipes include potentially unsafe ingredients. Others are based on misconceptions about dog and cat nutrition. Dogs and cats don’t need to eat raw meat, which poses a risk of bacterial contamination for the pet eating it and also for people in the household.[5,6] Bones in the food can damage the digestive tract unless they are ground up. Many recipes (and commercial diets) promote the mistaken idea that there is something wrong with feeding grain to dogs. In fact, grain-free diets might be linked to heart disease in dogs.

Where to Find RecipesThe safest homemade diets for dogs and cats are formulated by board-certified veterinary nutritionists. These specialist veterinarians have extensive training in animal nutrition. Veterinary nutritionists develop recipes for healthy animals and can also customize diets for animals with diseases or specific nutritional needs.

If you use a recipe from a veterinary nutritionist, be sure to follow the recipe and feeding instructions exactly. Ingredient substitutions can change the nutritional balance of the diet.

For more information and a list of board-certified veterinary nutritionists, see the American College of Veterinary Nutritionists website: http://www.acvn.org/.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Going on vacation and thinking of taking your pet along? First decide whether travel is right for your pet. Some animals are comfortable traveling and being in unfamiliar places. Others are much happier staying at home or in a boarding facility. Destination matters; some places (and types of vacations) are more pet friendly than others. Will you be able to spend plenty of time with your pet or will she be alone in a crate most of the day?

Make sure your pet has identification, ideally both a microchip and an identification tag. Before you leave, double check that the microchip registry has your current contact information. Have a photo of your pet available in case he gets lost.

If you’re taking your pet to another state or country, check the destination’s animal import requirements as far in advance as possible. Your pet will probably need a health certificate. Some destinations require vaccinations and blood tests on a specific schedule. The USDA APHIS Pet Travel web page lists current requirements for international and interstate pet transport: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/aphis/pet-travel.

Plan how you’ll safely restrain your pet during travel and give her time to get used to the restraint method before the trip. Either a seat belt harness or a crate will keep your dog safe in the car. Cats should stay in crates in cars. Airlines might require specific types of carriers.

Look after your pet’s medical needs. Consult your veterinarian if you’re not sure if your pet is healthy enough to travel or if he has motion sickness. Remember to pack your pet’s medications, including heartworm and flea preventives if a dose will be due during the trip. Be sure you can locate emergency veterinary clinics along the route and at the destination. Ask your veterinarian if your pet needs extra preventive care measures, like tick prevention or a leptospirosis vaccination.

Traveling by car: Keep water, a bowl, leashes, and poop bags where you can reach them. From personal experience, I also recommend taking paper towels, a garbage bag, and a backup dog bed or towel in case somebody gets sick all over their bed. Pack your pet’s usual food, but you might need to withhold food before and during the ride if she has motion sickness; check with your veterinarian. To reduce the risk of heat stroke, never leave an animal in a car without air conditioning in warm weather (cracking a window open is not enough). Rest stops with pets are easier with at least 2 people so someone can stay with the pet at all times.

Traveling by air: Check the airline’s requirements in advance. If possible, arrange to have your pet with you in the cabin. If your pet will be traveling in the cargo hold, try to book a nonstop flight at a time of day without temperature extremes—for example, not in the middle of the day in the summer. Brachycephalic (short-nosed) animals are at extra risk in cramped or warm conditions. Tranquilizers are not recommended for animals traveling by air. For more air travel tips, see the American Veterinary Medical Association Traveling With Your Pet FAQ: https://www.avma.org/public/PetCare/Pages/Traveling-with-Your-Pet-FAQs.aspx.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Microchips are a type of permanent identification that helps families reunite with lost pets. Pets should also have visible forms of identification like collar tags, but microchips can’t be pulled off by accident and are an important backup. Microchips are also required in some situations, like transporting animals.

Microchips connect owners to lost pets only if the owner’s contact information is registered in a microchip database. The United States does not have a central microchip registry. Microchip manufacturers and pet recovery services maintain their own databases. It’s essential to keep your contact information up to date in your pet’s microchip database.

If you’re not sure where your pet’s microchip is registered, enter the microchip number in the American Animal Hospital Association microchip lookup tool:http://www.petmicrochiplookup.org/If you don’t know the microchip number, your veterinarian’s office can scan your pet if the number is not already entered in your pet’s medical record.

What Are Microchips?Microchips are radiofrequency identification transponders about the size and shape of a grain of rice. Microchips are implanted under the skin. In dogs and cats, they are implanted between the shoulder blades. You can’t usually feel a microchip under your pet’s skin, but you can see it on an x-ray image.

A microchip is not a GPS device and can’t be used to track your pet.

How Are Microchips Implanted?A microchip is injected under the skin through a needle, similar to the way a vaccine is injected (although the needle is a bit larger). Animals do not need anesthesia during microchip insertion. Your veterinarian can implant a microchip during an office visit.

How Does Scanning Work?Shelters and veterinary clinics routinely scan stray dogs and cats for microchips. If the animal has a microchip and the owner’s information in the database is accurate, the staff can contact the owner.

A microchip scanner emits a low-power radiofrequency signal that activates the microchip. When a microchip scanner passes over a microchip, the chip transmits a number that the scanner displays on a screen. The number is unique to that microchip, so once you’ve registered it, it’s also unique to your pet.

Microchip manufacturers around the world make microchips that use different radiofrequencies. Not all scanners detect all microchip frequencies. Universal scanners read multiple frequencies. Microchips that meet the International Standards Organization (ISO) global standard transmit a specific radiofrequency that can be read by an ISO-standard scanner. Some countries require ISO-compliant microchips for imported animals.

Are Microchips Safe?The benefits of microchipping are generally far greater than the potential risks. Adverse reactions to microchips are rare. Animals could bleed a little or have mild, short-lived discomfort at the injection site. Infection and swelling at the injection site are possible but not common. Microchips can theoretically cause inflammation that leads to cancer, but almost all reports of cancer near a microchip implantation site have been in laboratory rodents. Only a few cases in cats and dogs have been reported, and in most it was not clear if the cancer was linked to the microchip.

Are Microchips Reliable?It’s possible for an animal to have a microchip that isn’t found on a scan. A microchip might use a different radiofrequency than the scanner can detect (if the scanner isn’t universal). Microchips occasionally migrate under the skin, usually to the side of the shoulder or front leg. People scanning for microchips typically scan a wide area of the body for this reason. And a microchip might not work at all (or stop working). Ask your veterinarian to check your pet’s microchip at the next clinic visit.

Laurie Anne Walden, DVM

Fleas don’t just cause itching. They also carry infectious diseases that can be contagious to people. Controlling fleas on your pets protects your whole family’s health.

TapewormsTapeworms are parasites that live in the intestines. They shed small body segments called proglottids that pass out of the host animal’s body in the feces. Tapeworm segments in the stool look like whitish rice grains.

Fleas transmit a type of tapeworm that commonly infects dogs and cats. Dogs and cats become infected by swallowing a flea. Tapeworms rarely cause significant disease in dogs and cats.

The dog and cat tapeworm that is carried by fleas, Dipylidium caninum, can also infect humans (usually children) who swallow a flea.[1]

Bartonellosis (Cat Scratch Disease)Bartonella species are bacteria that cause a variety of diseases in humans and other animals. Cat scratch disease and endocarditis (heart valve infection) are just 2 of the serious illnesses caused by Bartonella infection.[2]

Fleas are the most common insect vector for Bartonella henselae, the species that causes cat scratch disease.[3] Fleas can also carry other Bartonella species. Infected cats and dogs might or might not have any symptoms of infection.

Bartonellosis is a human health risk. Treating your cat with a cat-safe flea preventive reduces the risk of cat scratch disease for people in contact with your cat.

Rickettsial DiseasesRickettsiae are a group of bacteria responsible for diseases such as typhus and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Rickettsiae are spread by arthropods, including fleas and ticks. The types of fleas that infest dogs and cats transmit Rickettsia typhi (which causes murine typhus) and Rickettsia felis. Both of these bacteria can also cause disease in people.[1,4]

Yersiniosis (Plague)Plague, including bubonic plague and the Black Death, is caused by infection with the bacterium Yersinia pestis. The Oriental rat flea (Xenopsylla cheopis) transmits the bacterium usually to rodents but sometimes to cats, dogs, other animals, and humans. Rat fleas in the western United States and other parts of the world still harbor Yersinia.[3]

We all know that cats sometimes throw up hairballs. But hairballs aren’t the only reason cats vomit. Don’t assume that vomiting is normal for your cat, even if it’s been going on for months or years.

Consult your veterinarian if your cat has any of these symptoms:

Vomiting more often than twice a month

Vomiting that is increasing in frequency

Bringing up hairballs more often than usual

Weight loss

Decreased appetite

Diarrhea

Coughing or hacking

HairballsHairballs (trichobezoars in medical speak) are wads of hair in the digestive tract. Cats swallow loose hair when they lick their fur. Hair usually passes through the digestive tract without causing any problem. But sometimes hair packs together into a mass in the stomach or intestine.

A hairball is usually shaped like a cylinder. If you see one on your favorite rug, you might mistake it at first for feces. Hairballs are often about the same size and shape as a log of cat poop. But if you look at a hairball closely you’ll see that it’s made of tightly packed hair (and it doesn’t smell like poop).

We don’t really know how often cats normally vomit up hairballs. In an informal poll at a cat clinic in England, cat owners reported that nearly three-fourths of their cats had never vomited up a hairball. About 1 in 6 cats expelled a hairball once a year, and 1 in 10 cats expelled a hairball at least twice a year. Owners reported that long-haired cats brought up hairballs more frequently than short-haired cats did.[1]

Hairballs that aren’t vomited up or passed in the stool can block the digestive tract. Symptoms include vomiting, decreased appetite, and signs of belly discomfort (which can be easy to miss in cats). Cats with intestinal blockages may need surgery.

Causes of HairballsHealthy cats occasionally bring up hairballs just because they’re cats and they groom themselves. But sometimes hairballs are a sign of another problem. Cats are more likely to have problems with hairballs if they swallow excessive amounts of hair or have a disorder that slows the movement of material through the digestive tract.

Fleas and itchy skin conditions can lead to excessive grooming. Cats also overgroom in response to pain or stress. More grooming means more hair swallowed and an increased chance of hairballs.

The symptoms of digestive tract diseases like inflammatory bowel disease and intestinal lymphoma (a type of cancer) can be mistaken for hairballs. In one study, some cats with hairballs blocking the intestines also had serious intestinal disease.[2] These diseases affect the way food and hair move through the digestive tract and may put cats at higher risk of hairballs. Hairballs can also irritate the digestive tract, causing inflammation.

Managing HairballsAsk your veterinarian before treating your cat’s vomiting or hacking with over-the-counter remedies or hairball diets. Hairballs might not be responsible for the symptoms.

Brushing the coat to remove loose hair is safe and might be all that’s needed to reduce hairballs in healthy cats. Long-haired cats that regularly bring up hairballs may benefit from having their fur trimmed.

If you’re noticing more hairballs than usual, ask your veterinarian to check your cat for underlying problems. If the symptoms point to an intestinal disease, your cat might need a series of diagnostic tests (such as bloodwork, ultrasound, and possibly a biopsy of the intestines).