Best Greek Grilled Sardines (2008)

All too recently, the only sardines you could get in a Manhattan eatery were the ones that came in cans; suddenly, they're all over the placeskin flaky with char on the outside and sweetly tasting of the ocean within. Some of the best of the bunch are available at AVRA, a fledgling estiatoria that offers flopping fresh denizens of the deep to those who don't want to hustle to Astoria. It ain't cheap, but if you factor in the cost of a cab, you're about even.