0<x v-v-
:-jATIO
D
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IN
H
BY
JOHN CARR.
.v^
HiSTORICHL AND PERSONAL SKETCHES.
Eureka, California:
TIMES PUBLISHING COMPANY, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS.
1891.
\\ lS\\A ^
THE NEW YOi.K
HR5S77
^' .AND
TiLUi^i^ i- j.;,.dations
R 1919
Copyrighted, 1891,
By JOHN CARR.
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
TO THE
PIONEERS,
I^ATITE SONS AND DAUGHTEHS
OF CALIFORNIA.
CONTENTS,
CHAPTER I.
From Peoria to Fort Leavenworth.
At Peoria, 111., making preparations for the trip. — The good-bye. — My
companions. — Arrival at St. Louis. — On the river steamer. — At Fort
Leavenworth fitting out for the plains. — The whisky and the " veni-
son." — Buying a team ; breaking mules.
CHAPTER IL
To Fort Laramie.
Starting across the plains. — A blacksmith's shop on wheels. — In the
home of the buffalo. — At Fort Kearney.^A tempting offer by Gen.
Sterling Price. — Along the Platte. — Chimney Rock. — At Fort
Laramie. — In the Black Hills country.
CHAPTER III.
To Salt Lake City.
Fort Bridger. — Col. Bridger, the typical Indian fighter. — In the Salt
Lake valley; a difficult descent. — In Brigham Young's city. — An
interview with Brigham. — Proselyting. — A stratagem. — Mormon
achievement.
12 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
To Hangtown, California.
Leaving Salt Lake Cit)-. — Through the Mormon settlement. — Celebrat-
ing the Fourth. — Humboldt River. — Beginning of hardest trials. —
Sand and alkali. — Foraging. — Mosquitoes. — Road flanked with dead
animals. — The Fifty-mile desert.— Sick companion. — Fagged team.
— Hunting water. — The relief wagon. — Carson river. — Plenty of
grass and water. — Crossing the Sierra Nevadas. — Through Emi-
grant Canyon — Reflections. — Arrival at Hangtown, Cal.
CHAPTER V. .
Description of Hangtown.
" Shake " houses. — Gambling. — Sports, male and female. — A Babel of
languages. — The currency. — Judge Lynch's court. — "Bloody Dick." —
Threatened hostilities between "squatters " and the civil authorities.
CHAPTER VL
Mining Experiences.
First experience in mining. — The frightened Chinaman. — Foreigners'
mining license. — A foreigner from Pike. — Helping the "under-dog"
in a fight. — Fighting Sheriffs. — Hunting for new diggings. — The ants
and the " graybacks." — Georgetown. — Missouri gulch.
CHAPTER VII.
Departure for Sacramento.
Return to Hangtown. — Departure for Sacramento. — The miners' hard
life. — Sleeping on a feather bed. — Sights and experiences in Sacra-
mento. — Thieves, " Sydney Ducks" and gamblers. — Stolen potatoes.
— On trial for larceny.
CONTENTS. 1 3
CHAPTER VIII.
Drifting About.
Cholera. — Departure for Calaveras. — Life in a cabin. — A remedy worse
than the disease. — Excitement over the Gold Bluif mines. — Off
for 'Frisco. — Frightened by a woman. — San Francisco in '50.
CHAPTER IX.
Off for Trinidad and Gold Bluff.
Sailing on the " Minerva " for Trinidad Bay.— Rough weather.— A row
with the negro cook. — The bill of fare. — Arrival at Trinidad. — Off
for Salmon River.
CHAPTER X.
Wanderings Between Trinidad and Weaverville.
Crossing the Big Lagoon. — A mule's tumble down the mountain. — A
herd of elk. — Ferrying the Klamath. — Disgusted with SalmonRiver.
— Departure for Trinity River and Weaverville.— Snowed under. —
Finding a trading post and supplies. — Prospecting on Oregon Gulch.
CHAPTER XI.
First Experience at Weaverville.
Separated from companions. — Generosity of the early miners. — Arrival
at Weaverville. — Starting a blacksmith's shop.— A public whipping. —
A quarrel between two miners. — Trial before a judicial officer. — The
plea. — Thomas McGinnis Brown and the ox team.
14 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XII.
High Prices Lynching, and Other Incidents.
Ten dollars a day for cutting wood. — The blacksmith's shop. — A list
of prices. — Arrival of women. — Lynchmg. — Extorting confessions.
— Trinity county organized. — A batch of candidates for office. —
Rivalry for the county seat. — Humboldt county organized. — C. S.
Ricks and the belligerent Capt. Tracy.
CHAPTER XIII.
Officers Elected.
A sensational lynchmg affair and the rescue. — The accused innocent.
CHAPTER XIV.
Changing the Course of Trinity River.
The "Arkansaw dam." — Meeting an old friend. — A first cousin of the
Earl of Stanmore the keeper of a trading-post. — A fire. — Lost his
last pair of pantaloons. — A peculiar costume. — Dear lumber. —
Gardening. — A fighting parson.
CHAPTER XV.
Mail Matters.
A dollar for a letter. — First postoffice at Weaverville. — Carrying mail
in a hat.^ — The express business. — Rival bakers. — A Fourth of July
celebration. — Roast beef and plum-pudding.
CONTENTS. 15
CHAPTER XVI.
A Political Contest.
A miner knifed and a graveyard begun. — Providing for the winter. —
A visit to Sacramenio. — A political contest. — An enthusiast's report
concerning Humboldt. — Weaverville laid out regularly. — Squaring
an account. — Bringing water from Weaver Creek. — Accessions of
settlers from Humboldt. — A town jackass.
CHAPTER XVII.
Getting Homesick and Visiting the Old Home.
A visit to the old Eastern home. — Growth of San Francisco. — The pas-
sage to Panama. — A typical Mexican town. — Crossing the Isthmus
on mules. — High prices. — The railway to Aspinwall. — On board the
" Illinois." — In dinner costume. — Sight-seeing in Havana. — Fili-
busters. — Death of young Crittenden.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Experiences in Cuba and the East.
Passing for a British subject. — A Bishop's palace. — Spanish soldiers. —
Nude statuary. — Music and moonlight. — Arrival at New York. —
Sailing down the St. Lawrence. — A glad reunion. — Changes in the
people. — Off again for California.— Marriage. — Arrival at Aspinwall.
Boating on the Chagres River. — Nude natives. — On mule back. —
An anxious mother. — "All legs up." — In Panama.
1(3 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIX.
Return to San Francisco and Weaverville.
The passage to San Francisco. — Distinguished fellow-passengers. — By
river steamer to Colusa; thence by stage to Shasta. — On mule-back
to Weaverville. — The mountain hotel. — Rapid growth of Weaver-
ville. — The killing of Anderson by the Indians. — Vengeance; pursuit
of the Indians. — The annihilation of the tribe.
CHAPTER XX.
Prominent Humboldters. — A Bloody Tragedy.
A natural bridge and a large cave. — The Hay Fork Valley. — Prominent
Humboldters who lived there. — A bloody tragedy; the killing of
Horton and Eliza Hardenburg by a Sheriffs posse. — Fate of the par-
ticipants. — A letter from an old pioneer, General Denver.
CHAPTER XXI.
The Last Victim of Judge Lynch.
A murder. — Mike Grant's trial before Judge Lynch, and subsequent ex-
ecution. — Lack of faith in the machinery of the law. — Judge Lynch's
last victim in Trinity county. — Civilizing effect of women and
children. — The first children in Weaverville. — An unsuccessful
Water Company.
CHAPTER XXII.
Housekeeping Experiences.
General Denver. — Housekeeping in Weaverville. — The noble pioneer
women.
CONTENTS. 17,
CHAPTER XXIII.
Almost a Famine.
The first ball in Weaverville; ten dollars per ticket.— Houses crushed
by snow; Senator John P. Jones buried under one of them;
his clever trick.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Politics, Murder and Fire.
The Presidential election of '52. — J. P. Albee and family. — The house of
Carr, Cummings S-' George. — Fire. — Noble generosity. — Rebuilding.
CHAPTER XXV.
Politics and War.
Comstock and Martin. — The old pine stump. — A street battle. — Pierce,
Church &-= Company. — The Home Guards. — Encampment at Red
Bluff; hungry soldiers. — A Masonic lodge organized; its officers. —
The Odd Fellows. — First school in Weaverville.
CHAPTER XXVI.
A Trip to Humboldt.
Indian war rumors. — Judge Peters and the Jokers. — Volunteers in pursuit
of Indians. — Uniontown. — Return to Weaverville with General
Denver.
18 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXVII,
A Desperado Killed, — Water Troubles.
A gambler and desperado killed. — Gamblers and desperados contributed
to California by the disbanded American army of the Mexican war. —
Joseph McGee shoots McElroy. — A full jail.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
A Miniature Ireland.
Conspiracy to hang Doctor William Ware. — First water-melons.
Serving on a Grand Jury.
CHAPTER XXIX.
A Chinese War.
Another conflagration. — A battle between two bands of Chinamen. —
Furnishing the implements of war. — Many killed.
CHAPTER XXX.
A Severe Winter.— Making Homes.
Plenty of provisions. — A prosperous year. — Advancement in civiliza-
tion. — Hovey's green peas and silver forks. — Slicing a man's coat-tail.
— Additions to Weaverville society. — The benign influence of
women and children.
CONTENTS. 19
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Building of Highways.
Taking up agricultural lands. — Building highways. — William S. Lowden
and his public-spirited enterprises. — The Weaverville and Shasta
wagon-road, stages and buggies.
CHAPTER XXXII.
An Exodus of Miners. — Torrents and Floods.
Improvements in the methods of mining in California. — Characteristics
of the early miners. — The winter of i86i-2.—"Jefif Davis " and
the flood. — Immense losses.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Sham Marriage and Duel.
A newspaper established at Douglas City. — Gowey and Hough and their
packer, Dusky. — Entrapping Dusky into a sham marriage. — The
sham duel that followed. — How a Jew got his finger bitten.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
An Attack on a Deserted Indian Rancherie.
Hostile Indians.— Calling out the troops. — John P. Jones goes to war in
20 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXV.
Disadvantages of the Mail Service.
How the mail was carried from Hoopa to Weaverville in 1863. — A peri-
lous Business. — Killing of Walter Van Armon, the carrier, by
Indians.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Pioneer Politics.
The Know-nothing party in California. — Its whole State ticket elected.
— The Democratic convention at Weaverville in '54 captured by
the Know-nothings. — An Irishman killed. — The lodge-room of the
Know-nothings collapses. — Ludicrous incidents.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Formation of the Republican Partv.
The city of Sacramento the first in California to go Republican. — The
rule of the Southern element in the State. — Organizing a Fremont
and Dayton club in Weaverville. — A Republican speaker " egged."
— Doctor O. J. Gates "fighting mad." — The " border ruffians." —
Frank M. Pixley's speech. — Threats of intimidation. — Marching to
the polls.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
First Republican State Ticket. — Effort to Divide the State.
The candidates for Governor. — Pistol politics. — John B. Weller's speech.
— The two wings of the Democratic party. — Duels. — Slaves in
California. — " Virginia poorhouse." — Broderick and Gwin.
CONTENTS. 21
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Democracy of the State Divided. — Killing of Broderick.
The Democracy divided on the Kansas question. — Fights, murders,
ballot-box stuffing. — Stanford and Latham the nominees for Gover-
nor. — Broderick killed by Terry.
CHAPTER XL.
The Political Campaign of 1859.
A triangular fight. — California's representatives in Congress voting with
the South. — Latham elected to succeed Broderick. — Mourning
Broderick's death. — John G. Downey, Governor.
CHAPTER XLL
The Presidential Campaign of i860.— The State Carried for
Lincoln.
The bitter feeling towards " Black Republicans." — Andy Lyons. — Abra-
ham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas. — The Charleston convention.
— The various candidates for the Presidency.
CHAPTER XLIL
The Nashville Convention.
The seeds of secession. — The political parties in California. — Rancorous
denunciation. — The attack upon Charles Sumner. — Amusing scenes
and incidents. — Awaiting the returns.
22 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XLIII.
The Firing Upon Sumpter.— A Blaze of Patriotism.
Efforts to end the rule of the Bourbons.— The seceding States.— The
Confederate Government. — The inauguration of Lincoln. — Indigna-
tion meetings. — The movement to form a Pacific Republic. — The
call for volunteers.— The Knights of the Gold Circle.— Its objects.—
The Douglas City Rifles held in readiness.
CHAPTER XLIV.
The Political Campaign of i86i.
The three parties. — The State convention. — The candidates. — Union or
secession. — The State carried by the Republicans.— Governor Stan-
ford. — The Legislature adjourns to San Francisco on account of the
flood.—" Old Secesh " and the " abolishiners."
CHAPTER XLV.
The Union of the Douglas Democrats and the Republicans.
The rejoicings of loyal men. — " Union for the sake of union." — The
political history of John P. Jones. — The defeat of George C. Gorham.
— John Conness elected U. S. Senator. — William M. Gwin, " the
Duke of Sonora."
CONTENTS. 23
CHAPTER XLVI.
A Family's Move to Humboldt.
Packing babies in boxes by pack-train. — Eureka as it was in 1866 com-
pared with Eureka in 1890.
CHAPTER XLVII.
BIOGRAPHY.
PREFACE.
Now, after a residence of over forty years on the
Pacific Coast, the whole of that time being spent
in California with the exception of four years spent
in Tombstone, Arizona Territory, and knowing that
many of the doings and works of the early pioneers
were fast sinking into oblivion, to be in a few years
entirely forgotten, it is my purpose, in writing and
publishing " Pioneer Days," to rescue and preserve
some of the doings of the common people that
founded and built up this great State of California.
Other writers dwell on great events and great men.
Most of the books that have been written on Cali-
fornia, and that have come under my observation,
pay but very little attention to the trials aiid suifer-
ings of the early Californians, their customs and
mode of living, their shortcomings and their virtues.
It is my intention, in this work, so far as lies in my
power, to hand down to the sons and daughters of
the pioneers some of the doings of their ancestors
while civilizing and subduing this their native
State.
The most of my time was spent in the mines and
PREFACE. 25
amongst tlie miners. My opx^ortunities were good
for learning their manners and customs and their
mode of living. This is a portion of the State's
history which all Californians wish to see preserved,
for at the present time, when tAvo or three old pio-
neers get together and talk of their early experi-
ences, yon frequently see a crowd around listening
to those tales of early days, and becoming much
interested in hearing of the adventures of Cali-
fornia's first American settlers. How much more
will children yet unborn love to read and see in
books the aames of their forefathers that Avrote
their names on the first pages of California's
history.
To the early ]3ioneers I would say that tlie
3'oungest of us has but a short time to stay ; the
great debt of nature Avill soon have to be paid, and
our last remains will find a resting-place in the
land we love so well. Therefore, j)ioneers, let us do
all we can to leave to our successors a history of
our day and the men of our time. It will be sought
after when the places that know us will know us no
more. To our native sons and daughters I would
say : We have left you a goodly heritage; guard it
well. Your fathers founded and built a mighty
State, which we hand down to you, founded on
freedom, justice, and equality. See that it receives
no detriment at vonr liands, but hand it down to
your children as von received it from the hands of
3 our pioneer fathers.
26 PREFACE.
If I have succeeded and i)reserved in history
some of the doings of the men of the early days in
Northern California, then I have accomx^lished my
mission. I hope that more gifted pens than mine
will, in other localities of the State, take up the
work and give to the State and the world a true
history of California and its founders.
INTRODUCTION
When I first began the writing and publication
of "Pioneer Days " in the Humboldt WeeJclt/ Mail,
I had not the remotest idea of ever publishing it in
book form; but, during its publication by install-
ments in the journal mentioned, I receiyed letters
from different portions of the State and from many
old friends, requesting me to have it published in
book form, and upon my consulting my friends in
Eureka I was advised by them to do so. As the
" Pioneer Days " contained many facts that had
never before been given to the public, I have tried
in writing those articles to give a truthful history
of events as they happened to come under my ob-
servation in crossing the plains in 1850, and upon
my first arrival in California.
As to the manner of Avorking the mines of that
early day, it is frequently amusing to me to read
some late writers' stories about the early days of
California. Their wood-cuts of the " rockers " and
" long-toms " and of tlie miners themselves, are such
that I sometimes think that, if it were alloted to
the spirit of man to come back to this world, some
28 INTRODUCTION.
outraged miner who sleeps liis last sleep on the
mountain sides or the flats of California, would
rise from his grave and haunt the would-be artist
who drew such caricatures of the early California
miners. The most of the miners that I see in the
wood-cuts appear to be old, haggard-looking men,
with bent backs, slouched hats and wrinkled faces,
more like the picture of the tramp of 1890 than the
honest miner of 1850. As a rule the first emigrants
to California were young men — tlie very flower,
physically speaking, of the United States; and the
pictures in the modern wood-cuts no more repre-
sent them than tliey do Chinamen. It has been my
aim in this work to give a correct history of the
times and doings of the men and women of the
State who were the pioneers of our civilization, and
who planted American manners, customs and laws
in this great State of California.
But few of us old Californians ever intended at
first to make California our place of residence. Tlie
nnbounded resources of tlie State were but little
known to the early emigrants. Gold was Avhat
they wanted, and, as soon as they had accumulated
enough of that to give them a " start " in their old
homes, they intended to return east of the Kocky
Mountains. California Avas looked upon as a good
place in which to dig gold, but not to make a home.
Her climate was not yet appreciated. As to the
fertility of her soil, few gave it a thought.
Before the discovery of gold California's expor-
INTRODUCTION. 29
tations consisted only of liides and tallow, and of
but few of those. Her great and fertile valleys
Avere unsettled. There were but few inhabitants in
the whole State. The few inhabitants there were,
each claimed sufficient land to make a respectable
principality in Europe.
The great valleys of the Sacramento and San
Joaquin were unsettled except by a very few cattle
kings. The whole country was in a state of primi-
tive nature. Ide\s Kanch, Gen. BidwelFs on Chico
Creek, Thom's Kanch near Tehama, and Major
Kedding's, near the head of the Sacramento Yalley,
with a few others, were the only settled places be-
tween Sacramento City and the head of Sacra-
mento Yallev, a distance of over two hundred miles.
The early miners had a very poor opinion of the
agricultural resources of the Sacramento Yalley.
They had not been in the country sufficiently long
to know anything of it from their own experience.
Sacramento Yalley — that is, the upper valley above
Sacramento City — was generally looked upon with
dread. In the winter it was usually overfloAved,
and left stagnant water-i)()nds, lagoons and sloughs,
which, in the summer, became very unhealthy.
Fever in the summer was general; fever and ague,
and what was called the " valley fever," Avere j)reva-
lent all over the valley.
From 1850 to 1853 the most of the goods for the
northern mines Avent through the Aalley on x^ack-
trains, and, if a train made the trij) Avithout liaA'ing
30 INTRODUCTION.
fully one-lialf of the packers down with the
" valley fever," they considered themselves in
luck.
The most of the Sacramento Valley was covered
with Mexican grants, some of them bona Jicle^ but
the most of them fraudulent. These grants deterred
many settlers from taking up lands. Law at that
time was an expensive luxury for the poor emi-
grant to indulge in, and justice in the courts was
often blind. Nevertheless, many emigrants crossed
the plains from 1850 to 1855 from Missouri and
Arkansas, bringing their families with them and all
their worldly goods. This class of emigrants gener-
ally " squatted " in the Sacramento Valley, and built
for themselves little " shake " houses out of the oak
timber on their claims. There was an abundance
of grass and wild oats on the plains for their stock.
The weather in the w inter season was so mild that
the settler needed nothing but a shelter from the
rain for himself and family. As a general thing
these settlers had not been accustomed to many of
the luxuries of life in the country fi'om which they
came, and they needed but little in their new abode.
I frequently made trips from Weaverville to the
Sacramento Valley, to buy old wagon-tires out of
which to make picks. Generalh", when the settler
found a claim that suited liis fancy, he continued to
live in his covered wagon until he had built his
house, and then moved his household goods into his
house and left his wagon standing. In a few months
INTRODUCTION. 31
the wauon would dvA' out so that tlie tires fell off.
The tires were worth more to him than the rest of
the wagon. To get tires set was a costly matter, the
charge being from twelve to twenty dollars per set.
The tires Avhicli I bought I cut into short i)ieces,
and had them packed on mules to Weaverville,
where they were soon made into miners' picks and
sold to the miners.
Yery few of these settlers ever thought of culti-
rating the soil to any great extent. They had come
from a climate east of the Rocky Mountains, where
nature furnished them rain all through the growing
season for crops. There being no rain in California
during the summer season, it seemed to these
settlers to be a waste of time and seed to put seed
in the ground in the Sacramento Yalley. The early
emigrants had no knowledge of irrigation or any
artificial manner of supj^lying the land with moist-
ure to take the place of summer rains. They had
heard or read of a few valleys on the coast, such as
the Petaluma Yalley, the Sonoma Yalley and the
Santa Clara Yalley, where the fogs from the ocean
supplied sufficient moisture to perfect crops. These
valleys and some farther south were settled by the
Spanish missions, long before the country came
under American rule. They were supposed by he
great majority of the Americans to be the only
places in the State capable of successful cultivation.
Could these settlers have looked ahead to the year
of 1890 and seen California as she is to-day, they
o2 INTRODUCTION.
would have seen the land of which they would not
at that time have accepted a thousand acres as a
present, now covered with vineyards and orchards
producing the finest and best fruit in the world.
Who would have thouglit, forty years ago, tliat
California would now be supplying the great Atlan-
tic cities with fruit and vegetables carried from the
Pacific to the Atlantic in six days, and supplying
Eurox^e with millions of bushels of wheat yearly,
much of these the products of the Sacramento and
San Joaquin Valleys, that the early miner thouglit
fit only for the Mexican herder and his longhorned
steers to live in ']
I well remember to have frequently been in con-
versation with " the boys," and to have heard them
talk of the prosj^ects of California in the future.
One would hear the remark : "I would not give one
township in Illinois for this whole d — n State."
Another person would remark : " I would like to
bring my family out for a few years, but I think
too well of them to bring them to such a country as
this is — no schools, no churches, no society. It
would be a h — 1 of a place to bring a woman to."
Many would say : " When the gold is all dug out.
Uncle Sam had better give California back to the
Greasers." Such was the opinion of many miners
of California.
^?^IONEER DmS in CiLIFORNIS.
CHAPTER I.
From Peoria to Fort Leavenworth.
At Peoria, 111., making preparations for the trip. — The good-bye. — My
companions. — Arrival at St. Louis. — On the river steamer. — At Fort
Leavenworth fitting out for the plains. — The whisky and the " veni-
son." — Buying a team ; breaking mules.
It was in the winter of '49 and '50 that the writer
found himself in the city of Peoria, Illinois, work-
ing at his trade, ironing off California wagons, or
wagons intended to cross the plains the following
summer. At that time the whole West was in a
blaze — everybody had the California fever, and
every man that could raise sufficient money to buy
an outfit was making prei)aration for a trip across
the plains. On the 21st day of March, 1850, 1 bade
good-bv to inv friends of the good citv of Peoria
and embarked on a steamer for St. Louis witli three
others, who were to be companions or messmates,
namely: D. C. Young, J. G. Boyden and T>. C.
34 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Gunii. D C. Young was a mercliant of Oliillicotlie,
Illinois, who was taking the trip for his lioalth.
He was a consumptive, and his physicians told him
there was no chance for his life if a trip across the
plains w^ould not help iiim. Before he had spent
thirty days on the plains he commenced mending,
and before we got to Sacramento he was, to all ap-
pearances, a well man. J. G. Boyden was a musi-
cian. Wlien we got to California he was paid $16
per day for j)laying in gambling-houses. In the
summer of 1854 he lost his life on tlie steamer Gem
when she blew up on the Sacramento river. D. 0.
Gunn was an aged man. He claimed to be a direct
descendant of the celebrated Jonathan Carver, the
great traveler of the Eighteenth Century.
Well, in due time we arrived in St. Louis and took
a steamer for Fort Leavenworth, with our California
wagons on board. The steamer was crowded with
argonauts, like ourselves, seeking the golden fleece
— bound for the land of gold. In due time we ar-
rived at Eort Leavenworth, where we were anxious
to fit out, as the Government had advertised a lot
of condemned Santa Ee mules for sale there and
they were considered good animals to cross the
plains. We went into camp on a large timber flat
just above the fort on the banks of the Missouri.
The next day the other members of the party
crossed the river to the town of Weston, in Mis-
souri, to prospect for supplies for a trip. They left
me in camp to take care of things, as I was the
FROM PEORIA TO FORT LEAVENWORTH. 35
"kitr' of tlie caiiip. It suited iiie very well, as I
bad bought in St. Louis a "pepper-box," or Allen's
revolver, with which I wanted to practice, as the
Comanches were liable to make a raid on us while
passing- through their hunting-grounds. I made
bullets and used up considerable powder, but never
became an expert with my pepper-box gun.
One day, while in camp alone, I had my first ex-
perience with Uncle Sam's boys. Two of them
came into camp and wanted to know if I had any
Avhiskv. I told them that Colonel Ogden had for-
bidden us to let the soldiers have liquor, and I
could not do so. They coaxed a long time, and
finally wanted to know if I didn't want a good fat
deer. I thought some venison would go very well
about that time. "Would I give them a pint of
whisky if they would get me a fine young buckV
I thought that would be breaking our bargain with
Colonel Ogden, but then, we did not agree not to
trade whisky for a young buck, so I finally agreed.
They started for the deer, and fifteen minutes later
I heard a shot. In another fifteen minutes they
were back in camp with a carcass minus the head,
feet and skin. Throwing it down, they said :
"There is your deer; now give us the whisky."
I examined the carcass, and told them it was not
a deer, but a hog. They looked at me with all the
appearance of the essence of virtue itself, and said :
"You must be a d — n fool; don't you know a deer
36 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
from a hog ? You ain't i^ot enoiioii sense to go to
California!"
Bat they got the whisky^, and I got the "deer,"
without hearing from Colonel Ogden. The sale of
tlie Government mules and wagons came off. We
purchased three of the Spanish mules, but they
didn't exactly suit Mr. Young — he was afraid their
feet were too small; there was no underpinning;
in case the mules got into a mudhole tlieir feet
were so small they would go out of sight altogether ;
and he came to the conclusion that we must haye
one animal with big feet, so as to keep the balance
of the team above the mud. So he bought in
Weston a big horse with big feet, and felt satisfied
that we would go through all right. Our team was
composed of three small Spanish mules and one big
black horse, about fourteen hundred pounds in
weight — as heavy as the balance of the team. We
had a good deal of fun with "Dave,'' as we called
him, about his matched wheelers. However, it made
a good team, and they landed us in Sacramento all
right. We had a jolly time in breaking the mules.
They were pack animals, and decidedly objected to
being put in harness. There was some tall " buck-
ing" about that time, but with the help of our
fourteen-hundred-pound horse, and lots of patience
on the part of our teamster, we got them into s(mie
sort of order in about a week's time. Our supplies
were all in, and time hung heavy on our hands,
for we were waiting for the grass to get up before
FROM PEORIA TO FORT LEAVENWORTH. 8(
starting on our long and weary trip across the
plains. The grass was late that spring, and, with
a few sacks of corn for feed, we started on about
the 20th of April, for the land of promise.
38 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER II.
To Fort Laramie.
Starting across the plains. — A blacksmith's shop on wheels. — In the
home of the buffalo. — At Fort Kearney. — A tempting ofifer by Gen.
Sterling Price. — Along the Platte.— Chimney Rock. — At Fort
Laramie. — In the Black HiUs country.
In my last chapter I had got started on the
plains ; but I will explain here that I hired my
passage in the outfit, paying one hundred dollars
for the trip, the regular price being two hundred
dollars. In consideration of my agreeing to do D.
0. Young's ])ortion of the work and ni}^ own, he
agreed to take me for half-price, and allow me fifty
pounds of baggage. J sold all my good clothes be-
fore leaving Peoria, and bought me two pairs of
stout shoes, fonr hickory shirts, two pairs of stout
pants and one h tt, which constituted my outfit.
The balance of the fifty pounds allowed I made up
with liorse nails, shoeing hammer, pinchers and
rasp — that is, a kit of shoeing tools. Before leav-
ing camp I got a piece of white cotton cloth. AVith
a bottle of ink I painted and put on our wagon
these words : " Horseshoeing done here ! " Be-
TO FORT LARAMIE. 39
fore leaving the States we purchased several guide-
books. Aiuoug the lot was what was called "the
Mormon Guide-book," which was found the best of
the lot. After striking the Council Bluff road, we
found it correct in every particular — distance from
water to water, and the same regarding wood and
grass. Our route lay through a line rolling prairie
country — what is now part of the State of Kansas.
The first stream we crossed was called the Little
Blue, and some distance further west we struck the
Big Blue. Before starting we decided that we
would travel alone and on our own account, camp
where we pleased, and start when we pleased. One
great trouble with the early emigrants was that,
before starting, they formed themselves into com-
panies and elected a captain, and bound themselves
to obey his orders. But very soon they became
dissatisfied, and the company broke into fragments.
We were now in the home of the buffalo — every
day we were in sight of vast herds of them, oc-
casionlly shooting one for fresh meat; generally a
yearling calf. The meat of the buffalo is of coarser
grain than beef, but very tender and juicy. Timber
we found vevy scarce ; but in its place w^ere " buffalo-
chips," as they were called on the plains. Por
nearl}- three hundred miles they were the onl}' fuel
we had. Some of our tender-feet brethren might
turn up their noses at a good buffalo steak broiled
on "buffalo-chip" coals, or a loaf of bread baked in
40 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
buffalo aslies, but it made a feast fit for a prince —
anyway good enough for us.
The first sign of settlement we met was Fort
Kearney, then occupied by Uncle Sam, with a
small garrison. At the fort I made the acquaint-
ance of the afterwards celebrated Major-General
Sterling Price, of the Southern army. He had
started across the plains with a large train. When
near Fort Kearney one of his wagons broke down
— a box in the hub was broken. There was no
blacksmith at the fort at that time, and he had
none in his company. One of his men rode up to
our wagon to inquire if there was a blacksmith in
the crowd. I was pointed out to him as a son of
Vulcan. He wanted me to go to the fort and re-
pair his wagon, but I did not wish to go, as it was
early in the day and our train would be far ahead
before I could get the job done. But as the Colonel
insisted on getting the job done, as he could not
travel, and he had a large train losing time.
Finally he offered me fifty dollars to do the job for
him, and a horse to ride to overtake our wagon. I
did the job in about two hours. He was as good
as his word, and offered me the fifty dollars. But
my skin was not thick enough for that. I took
ten dollars and called the account "square." He
then wanted me to leave the party I was with, and
offered me one hundred dollars per month to do his
work, I to have a horse to ride until we reached
California. On consultation with mv friends I re-
TO FORT LARAMIE. 41
fused the offer, and that was the last I saw of
General Price.
Our road lay up the South Fork of the Platte
river for many days, until we came to the" crossing
which we had to ford. The Platte, or at least the
South Pork of it, is one wide moving river of sand,
running rapidly. If one's team stopped one minute
it was buried in sand. Then our big-footed horse
did good service. Our little Spanish mules humped
up tlieir backs, sometliiug like a cat going to war,
and were afraid to move. We had to jump out of
the wagons and persuade them, with good stout
whips and clubs, to go. In traveling up the south
side of the Platte river we found one of the best
natural roads, for the distance of four hundred
miles, that is to be found, I believe, on the face of
the earth. The scenery is most magnificent. Mount-
ains to the west are piled up against each other
as far as the eye can reach. It is surprising the
distance that can be seen on these plains. Three
of us went from the emigrant road to examine the
celebrated " Chimney Rock." The distance did
not seem more than two or three miles. We
started early in the morning, expecting to visit the
rock and get back to the wagon at noon. We got
to the rock about one o'clock, and it was dark when
we got into camp, tired and hungry. But it was
well worth the labor and tramp. " Chimney
Rock," at a distance, looks like some huge steeple
I)laced atop of some mighty ruins that for thous-
42 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
aiids of years bad witlistood the storms and tem-
pests of the Rocky Mountains. The pillar itself is
composed of soft rock easily cut with a knife. As
far up the shaft as could be reached were names of
hundreds of adventurers. This is the region of
thunder and lightning and hail storms. Frequently,
in the afternoon, storms would arise out of what
appeared to be a clear sky. When a small black
cloud appeared in the south or west, it was time to
look out, for the chances were that within an hour
we would have the whole artillery of heaven
turned loose upon us, with hail-stones in abund-
ance. At such times we camped, unhitched our
mules and tied them to the wheels of the wagon,
while we drove picket pins over the wheels, and
lashed the wagons down, 1o keep them from blow-
ing over. About the 24th of May we arrived at
Eort Laramie, where were stationed two or three
companies of soldiers. All emigrants were re-
quested to register their names at the fort, that
the Government might be informed as to the num-
ber of persons crossing the plains that summer.
The names were numbered, and I think mv num-
ber was 53,232 — that number of peox>le having al-
ready crossed before we got there; so you can have
an idea of the number of people on the plains in
the summer of '50. Erom the time we left Fort
Laramie we were never out of sight of trains,
before and behind us, until we reached Sacramento
City.
TO FORT LARAMIE. 4o
On leaving Fort Liiraniie we soon entered the
Black Hills country, where we found rough roads.
We bade good-bye to "buifalo-chips" and adopted
greasewood in their place. In due time we arrived
at the South Pass, or w hat is called the backbone
of the American continent. A person looking
round him here WM)uld hardly think that he was
standing on the backbone of a continent. The
summit was marked with a stake. On one hand
the rain that fell would run into the Atlantic Ocean,
and on the other into the Pacific. It appeared like a
great level plateau — mountains to the north, moun-
tains to the south, mountains to the west ! Those
to the west were the mountains of most interest to
us, as we had to take our wav over them — from
the summit to old Port Bridger, a trading post
situated west of Green Kiver, in w^hat is called the
Wind River Mountains.
44 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER III.
To Salt Lake City.
Fort Bridger. — Col. Bridger, the typical Indianfighter. — In the Salt
Lake valley; a difficult descent. — In Brigham Young's city. — An
interview with Brigham. — Proselyting: — A stratagem. — Mormon
achievement.
After many days of toil and travel we reached
Fort Bridger, situated in the Wind Kiver Mount-
ains. It was a stockade fort, and in the inclosure
were store-houses, filled with the goods then m de-
mand by the Indians of the plains, and dwelling-
houses, stables and everything composing a small
town or settlement, with a slight sprinkle of half-
breeds and a few squaws. But the most interesting
to me was the old man himself. Colonel Bridger,
the owner of the i)ost. In him you saw the old
Indian fighter, trai)x>ei*? f^^'tl pioneer of the early
days of the plains; a true type of the race of men
that is about passed away. The old man was then
about fifty years of age, tall, broad-shouldered, and
powerfully built, with long black bair, wearing a
soldier's overcoat, with buckskin pants and mocca-
sins. The old man was quite communicative, talk-
ing freely on different subjects. Taking him as he
TO SALT LAKE CITY. 45
stood, he looked to me to be a perfect specimen of
the AmericMii liunter.
Prom Fort Bridger our objective point was Salt
Lake City. We found tlie road very mountainous
and rough, and it was with much pleasure that we
finally found ourselves at the top of the mountain
ridge overlooking the great Salt Lake Valley. The
road from the summit down to the valley was very
steep. Locks on the wheels were of very little ac-
count, and we cut a small bushy tree and tied it to
the liind axle of the wagon, which acted as a
capital brake, and we got down all right.
We were now safe in Brigham's dominions, and
had to put on our good behavior. We found the
city to be one of magnificent distances. The town
lots were very large — two or three acres in extent ;
broad streets, with ditches of water running
through them, and rows of trees set out on each
side, wliicli gave the city a very neat and home-like
appearance. There was but little mercantile or
other business done in the city at that time, though
Kincade & Co. had quite a stock of goods on? hand.
The houses were principally one-story, and built of
adobe. Brigham's house was the largest in the
citT, two stories in higlit, and it was not much of
a house at thai. The temple was a large, round
house, capable of seating a large number of people.
Here the elders and bishops every Sunday preached
to the faithful, and abused Uncle Sam and his Gov-
ernment. We drove through the city and camped
'^
46 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
about a mile out of towu on the eniigrant road,
intending to veniain about one week to rest and
recruit our team for the remainder of the trip.
Being the "kid" of the camp, I was sent on^a
foraging expedition for fresh "grub," such as
butter, milk, eggs, cheese and fresh vegetables. I
had no trouble in buying such things at reasonable
prices. We lived on tlie fat of the land wliile we
sojourned with the followers of Joseph. When
laying in our stores before we started from Eort
Leavenwortli, we bought only sufficient flour to
last until we should arrive at Salt Lake, expecting
to replenish our stock there for the remainder of
the trip. When we got to Salt Lake, however, we
found that we could not buy anything in the shape
of bread-stuff on account of an order Brigham
Young had made that no bread-stuff should be sold
until the new crop came in. This left us in a bad
fix, for we would have to lie over six or seven
weeks, much against our will, and the faithful
would not, or dare not, disobey the orders of their
prophet, priest and king.
On one of my foraging expeditions I met Brig-
ham himself. I had become acquainted with an
old Yermont lady who made excellent butter, and
who was a splendid talker on her side of the ques-
tion. She tried hard to convert me, and told me I
would make a splendid Mormon. During one of
mv visits to her house I met a gentleman of about
TO SALT LAKE CITY. 47
fortv years of aij^e, very ])leasinc; in bis address.
About tbe first question lie put to me was :
"Young man, are you as anxious for tbe salvation
of your soul as you are to go to California and get
gold ?"
My answer was tbat tbe salvation of my soul did
not botber me niucb about tbat time. He wanted
to know my name, wbere I was from, wbat relisrion
I professed, my occupation, and if I bad any prej-
udice against tbe Mormons. All of tbe questions
were properly answered. As regards prejudice
against tbe Mormons I bad none, as I bad never
seen a Mormon to my knowledge until I arrived
at Salt Lake. He tben proposed to me to stay at
Salt Lake and be would give me employment until
fall at five dollars per day, and if we liked eacli
otber, be would tben start me in business ; and as
furtber inducement, if T would join the Oburcb I
would no doubt rise to eminence as a servant of tbe
Lord and a pillar of tbe Cburcb. All of wbicb I
respectfully declined. Tbe next da}' I called on
my Vermont lady friend. Sbe wanted to know
bow I liked tbe Governor.
" Governor wbo ?" I asked.
"Wby, Governor Young — tbe gentleman you
were talking to yesterday !"
"Great Scott! Was tbat Governor Young'?"
"Yes, indeed it was, and be bas taken a liking to
you. You bad better stay bere and take bis offer."
I bave often tbougbt wbat a fine old Mormon
4(S PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
elder I would have made, or maybe a hishop, with
half a dozen wives, and no end of young Mormons.
But Brighain and the saints lost an elder or a
bishop, and California gained a blacksmith.
The bqys in camp were by this time getting very
uneasy and wanted to be moving. They had
searched all over the settlement to buy one liun-
dred pounds of bread-stuff, but could iiot get an
ounce.
One evening Dave came- into camp cursing
Brigham and the Mormons generally, wishing
them all in hades. Next morning he gave me one
hundred dollars, ajid told me to give it for one
hundred pounds of flour or corn meal if I could
get it. I first tried my Yermont lady friend, but
it was in vain — she was too good a Mormon to dis-
obey orders. The next place I tried was a farm
house, where an old gentleman was sitting on the
fence in front of tli,e house.
"Good morning, neighbor. Have you any flour
or corn meal to sell?"
"Nay, lad, I ha' not.''
I knew at once he w^^s an Englishman, and I
decided to use a little strategy, so I said :
"Sir, by your language I would take you to be a
countrynjan of mine."
" Be thee English, lad'? Where be thee from?''
" I am from Yorkshire, sir."
"What toon, lad?"
"The town of Hadden, sir.''
TO SALT LAKE CITY. 49
"Be thoe fro' the toon of Hacldeu ^ What be
thy name Lid V
"IvSaiah GilLird."
" AYhat thy father's name ?"
"ErankGillard, sir."
"And be thy mother's name Hannah Fox?"
And the old Briton surveyed me from head to
foot, and finally said, "I believe thee, lad. I knew
they father and mother well." And he surveyed
me again. " So thee be the son of Frank Gillard
and Hannah Fox? Come to the house, lad, and
the gude wife will mak' thee welcome."
We went into the house, and the old gentleman
introduced me to his wife as the son of their old
friends Frank Gillard and Hannah Fox of Had-
den. The old lady wiped her specks with her
apron, phiced them on her nose, and coming close
up to me and looking straight into my eyes for
some time, slie exclaimed:
" Truly, thee be tlie son of Hannah Fox, for tlvee
have thv mother's eves and hair. A bonny lass
she was when she stood up in Hadden church to
be married to thy father.''
And with that the old lady gave me a good
heart v kiss for my mother's sake. The old
Briton would not think of my leaving until I
had dinner with them, and had given him a his-
tory of my father and all the family. The old lady
had a good cry when I told her of my mother's
50 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
death some years previous. Before I left the old
man said :
"Betty, cannot we help tlie son of our old friend
with some corn nieaP"
"Yes, Davey, we can ^i' him the last in the
house, wi' God's blessing on the lad," The old
man said, "I cannot sell thee any meal, but if thee
and thy comrades will hoe that patch of potatoes
for me I will give thee one hundred pounds of
meal," pointing to a small patch of potatoes in
front of the house. I said we would do the hoeing
to-morrow.
I will explain how I became a Yorkshire man,
though never having seen either England or York-
shire, much less the town of Hadden. When serv-
ing my apprenticeship in Canada, I had a fellow-
apx^rentice by the name of Isaiah Gillard. We were
very warm friends, for boys, and I frequently went
to his father's and spent Sunday with his people ;
and hearing them talk of things and x3eoi)le in
Yorkshire, I became quite familiar with names and
places. I gave this Mormon family a Iiistory o
their friends, the Gillards, using a little deception
which did them no harm and us a great deal of
good. I went to camp and reported progress. We
were a happy set that night and started next morn-
ing for the old man's potato patch and made short
work of it. I told the boys to call me Isaiah instead
of Jack when addressing me in the presence of my
English friends. We got our corn meal, with a
TO SALT LAKE CITY. 51
good dinner thrown in, and went our way rejoicing.
So much for a little strategy. I must say a good
word for the Mormons, but will leave it for the
next chapter.
52 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER IV.
To Hangtown, California.
Leaving Salt Lake City. — Through the Mormon settlement. — Celebrat-
ing the Fourth. — Humboldt river. — Beginning of hardest trials. —
Sand and alkali. — Foraging. — Mosquitoes. — Road flanked with dead
animals. — The Fifty-mile desert. — Sick companion. — Fagged team.
— Huntmg water. — The relief wagon. — Carson river. — Plenty of
grass and water. — Crossing the Sierra Nevadas. — Through Emi-
grant Canyon — -Reflections, — Arrival at Hangtown, Cal.
It was in 1850 th;it I was in Morinondoni. In
1847 the Mormons were driven from the border
States, and much of their property destroyed.
With the little they had left, they started with
their wives and little ones on a journey of over
one thousand miles, across what was at that time
known as the Great American Desert. Encounter-
ing hardship and privation, climbing mountains,
dragging their wagons over mountains with ropes,
when their worn-out teams got too weak from want
of feed and otlier causes to be of much benefit to
them, surrounded with hostile Indians on every
side, they still pressed on to their land of promise.
It was less tlian three years from their first arrival
in tlie valley when I was there. It would almost
TO HANGTOWN, CALIFORNIA. 53
seem loo incredible for belief that so much could
be done in the short space of three years. Here
was the city laid out and partly built, water ditches
dug from tlie mountain stream, houses and barns
built, farms laid out and fenced, mills built and
running, school-houses built and occupied, churches
erected and dedicated. There were no drones in
the hive there. When we take into consideration
that these people were poor in this world's goods,
poor in everything but faith, with no capital but
willing hands and stout arms, no matter how much
we may denounce their religious practices, we must
give them credit for perseverance and industry.
Leaving Salt Lake City, our road led up the
valley through the Mormon settlement ; on every
hand thrift and industry were apparent. On the
4th day of July, we arrived at the crossing of Bear
River, a stream emptying into the Great Salt
Lake. At the crossing we were stopped by a lot of
the emigrant boys, who had concluded to celebrate
the "Glorious Pourth." We concluded to lie over
and have a time. Before niiirht there were at least
seventy-five or eighty wagons stopped the same as
we were. We had a general good time — an oration,
and a stag dance at night. Boyden, our fiddler,
came into use, and furnished the music for the oc-
casion. Next morning we started again, and in
time reached the Humboldt Biver; then our trials
began.
Our trip so far was to me but a pleasure excur-
54 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
sioii. Wo found the Humboldt Eiiver very high —
swollen by the melting snows of the mountains,
with the roads in poor condition, and scarcely any
feed, as the teams ahead of us had devoured every
green thing in sight. Back from the bottoms of
the river nothing but sand and alkali deserts were
to be seen ; but plenty of grass just across the river,
if we could but reach it. Frequently, after a hard
day's travel, we would have to tie our animals up
and cut bunches of willows for them to gnaw on
during the night. They commenced getting poor
and weak, and I knew something must be done or
we would be left without a team. On the other
side of the river was x^lenty of feed, and I made up
my mind that I was going to get some of it. When
we camped about the middle of the afternoon, I
told the boys I would have some of that grass. They
said: "How are you going to get it?" "I will
show you." T got a large butclier knife and a
picket-rope, and divesting myself of my clothes
and tying a rope around my body, with the knife
in my teeth, I bolted into the river and struck out for
grass on the other side. I reached the other shore
and went into the grass with my knife, but there
was one enemy I had not calculated on, and that
was the mosquitoes; they had a good chance to get
at me. I would make one stroke at the grass and
two at my tormentors. When I got back over the
river I looked like a bad case of the measles. They
were the largest and hungriest lot of mosquitoes
TO HANGTOWN, CALIFORNIA. 55
that ever attaclved a Iminan being. Well, I got two
good bundles of grass cut and tied up, and now
came the tug of war, to get them across. The
river was quite rapid. I looked out for a good
landing on the other side, and went far up the
stream to be sure I couUl make it. Throwing tlie
bundles into the stream, and taking a bight of the
rope round my body, I struck out for camp. I
made my calculation all right, and landed my
cargo of hay, a good night's feed for our team, but
was myself minus about one quart of blood. In
this way we procured feed and kej)t our team alive.
For three or four weeks we were never out of sight
of dead animals, and the stench was horrible.
After many days of toil and hardship we arrived
at the sink of the Humboldt. The sink appeared
quite a lake at that time, as the melting snow in
the mountains kept the Humboldt River full.
Erom the sink of Humboldt to Carson River was
called fifty miles. This fifty miles was a desert
without one drop of water in it, the largest portion
being drifting sand; a hard journey for worn-out
teams and men to make, but it had to be made.
Resting for one da} , we started about 4 o'clock in
the afternoon, first filling our canteens with water
to drink on the way. Eor the first twelve or
fourteen miles the road was good, traversing what
seemed to be a bed of scoriae. H^ot a living thing
in sight, everywhere a dreary waste, we traveled
all that night. Next morning found us traveling
56 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
tlivougli sand sncli that the wheels of the wagon
sank in eight or ten inches, which made onr pro-
gress very slow. As the sun rose higher in the
heavens the heat became verj^ oppressive, and onr
team required considerable urging to be kept mov-
ing. We worried along all that day, nothing but
sand all around us, and, to make matters worse,
two of our men were taken down with the mount-
ain fever and had to be hauled in the wagon. This
left but Dave Young and myself to work the team
through. About sundown we could urge the team
no further. Here we were, with our team given
out, two sick comrades, and not knowing how far
we were from water. I proposed to Young that, if
he would stay by the team and our sick comrades,
I would take our four canteens and go to the river
for water. He consented, and I started for Oarson
River a little after dark. When I had traveled
about two hours, I preceived a fire burning on the
side of the road. It was a welcome sight to me-
When I came to it I found three men sitting
around the fire, and two wagons with their tongues
pointing to the road. I came up to the fire and
spoke to them, and they wanted to know if I would
not take a cup of coffee. They had a large camp
kettle on the fire filled with coffee and gave me a
tin cup full and all I wanted. I wished to pay, but
they would not take a cent. They good-naturedly
told me if I lived in California I some day would
have to ]3ay for it. They were sent out by the
TO HANGTOWN, CALIFORNIA.
Government as a relief train to meet the emigra-
tion and help them as well as they could. The}'
did good work. I found from them that it was
only two miles to Oarson River. After resting a
short time and taking another cup of coffee, I
shouldered my canteens and started for Carson
river, a new man. I got there in a short time. Fill-
ing my canteens, I started hack, and reached my
friends of the relief train, and found they had gone
to bed, but left the coffee on the fire, to which I
helped mj^self liberally. I reached our wagon just
as the day was breaking, with my four canteens
full of water, bringing life and courage to our sick
men. Dave struck up a fire and we soon had
breakfast. We gave three of the canteens of water
to the team, and some of thecornmeal, which, after
their night's rest, gave them new life. We started
as soon as possible tso as to reach Oarson River be-
fore the heat of the day, and got there all right.
There our troubles ended. We found plenty of
grass and water from there to California. For the
last twenty miles of the desert a man could walk
on dead animals all the way, and as for other prop-
erty you could find anything you wanted, from a
pair of socks to a four-horse wagon. The sides of
the road were just littered with all sorts of things
thrown away and abandoned.
We laid over for a few days to recruit and rest.
The balance of the trip through Carson Valley with
its fine mountain brooks and meadows, looked to
58 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
me like a paradise, after traveling throu£jh so much
desert. There we found several trading posts —
people who had come from Sacramento to buy
poor stock and trade with the emigrants. We had
but the Sierra Nevada Mountains to cross and our
trip would be at an end. Our team picked up well
while in the Carson Valley, and our sick men got
all right. We started through what was then
called Emigrant Canyon, for the summit of the
Sierras. This canyon wa.s piled full of rocks,
thrown together bv nature without anv resrard for
the comfort or the convenience of those poor
mortals who had to travel over them. Frequently
we had to lift our wagon, first the forward wheels,
then the hind wheels, over them. We arrived at
the summit in due time, where we could look down
on our land of Canaan — our promised land. Now,
after a lapse of nearly thirty-eight years, when my
mind wanders back to the time when I first stood
on the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains
and looked over the great plains of California, soon
to be reached, the thought comes, how many of
that grand army, one hundred thousand strong, of
the youthful manhood of the land, who, like my-
self, stood on the summit of the lofty Sierras and
took their first view of the then to-be great State of
California, how manv of them are now in the land
of the living'? Alas, but few of us are living !
Many fell early in the fight. How many of them
accomplished their desires? I am afraid but ver}-
TO HANGTOWN, CALIFORNIA. 59
few. Many of tbeiu have filled unknown graves,
far from home and kindred, with no kind friends
to drop a tear or j^lant a sprig over their unmarked
graves in tlie mountains and gulches of California.
But their deeds live after them. They planted on
the shores of the broad Pacific a mighty empire,
whose foundation is laid in liberty, truth, civiliza-
tion and justice, and which will remain a monument
to their memories forever.
Erom the summit of the Sierras to Hangtown was
soon made without any trouble, the only thing of
note being "grizzlies,"' which were quite plentiful on
the western slope of the mountains. We arrived
at Hangtown, now Placerville, on the 9th day of
August, 1850, all right, not a bit the worse for wear,
and ready for anything which might turn up.
60 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER V.
Description of Hangtown.
" Shake " houses. ^ — Gambling. — Sports, male and female. — A Babel of
languages. — The currency. — Judge Lynch's court. — "Bloody Dick." —
Threatened hostilities between "squatters " and the civil authorities.
Here we were in California. At last our loni^
and tedious journey was over. As a whole I en-
joyed it. Sometimes we fared well, at other times
not very well ; but, all in all, our trip was a good
one.
We found Hangtown, or what is now called
Placerville, to be two rows of houses with a street
between them. The houses were built principally
of shakes, with posts driven into the ground on
which to nail the shakes. There were about fifty
or sixty of these houses in the place when we ar-
rived there, the largest four of which were run as
gambling-houses, and were in full operation at that
time. All sorts of games were in full blast, such
as monte, faro, lansquenet and Erench monte,
sometimes called three-card monte. Each
gambling-house had from four to eight tables,
which werQ loaded with gold and silver, great
DESCRIPTION OF HANGTOWN- 61
stacks of which were there to tempt the unwary
miner to try his luck, whicli he often did to his
sorrow. The tables were presided over by '^sports,"
as they then were called, who were considered the
aristocracy of the country. They generally wore
white shirts and dressed in what the bovs called
"store clothes.'' If a man came into camp with a
boiled shirt on, he was set down as a sport, and
generally correctly so. Erequently they would
have a female ''sport'' at the table. She was gen-
erally well jiainted and dressed in the richest
attire, and, as a rule, was a daughter of la belle
France. The tables they presided over were gen-
erally well patronized, and many a well-lilled
purse of gold dust of some soft-pated miner was
drawn in by these gilded damsels of France and
Germany.
Hangtown at that time was a perfect Babel ; men
from all the principal nations of the world seemed
to have gathered there. You could hear the lan-
guage of nearly every civilized nation spoken in
the streets of that little burg, and the coin of every
realm passed current; but the most of the money
was Mexican. Mexican gold onzas, worth
sixteen dollars, and Mexican silver dollars
were the most used, but the principal circulat-
ing medium was gold dust. Everybody had
gold dust, and nearly everything bought and
sold was paid for in gold dust, at the rate of six-
teen dollars per ounce. Hangtown, when I arrived
62 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
on the 9tli of August, was but a small place ; but
before T left, two niontlis later, it bad grown
twenty times as large, buudreds of emigrants ar-
riving daily, taking up lots and building bouses,
and starting different lines of business. All was
bustle and excitement. No land monopolist al-
lowed, or town lot speculators. Henry George's
land tbeorv wasfullvin force. No man was allowed
more lots than bis business required, and if be
dared claim any more be generall}^ got tbe worst
of it. Henry George's tbeory was fully in practice
in California before Henry George ever thougbt of
it, and maybe it was from tbe early Californians
tliat Henry George caugbt bis inspiration on
land matters.
Tlie early fatbers of California bad a very simple
and easy metbod of governing tbe country and ad-
ministering tbe laws, and a very effective uietbod
it was at tbe same time. I will give you an in-
stance of my first experience, and wbat I saw be-
fore tbe bar of Judge Ly neb's court. This was
my first attendance at His Honor's court, but by
no means tbe last. I was standing looking on at
tbe games tbat were being dealt at the El Dorado
saloon. In tbe game I was looking at there were
three or four miners betting. It w as the game of
monte. One of tbe miners accused tbe dealer of
drawing waxed cards on him; or, in other words,
cbeating bim out of bis dust. Tbe gambler told
him if be said so again be would cut tlie beart out
DESCRIPTION OF HANGTOAVN. 63
of liiiii. The miner repeated the words, when the
gambler raised out of his seat, drew a Lirge bowie
knife out of his belt and plunged it twice into the
man's heart ; at the last plunge he turned the
knife around in the man's body- Pullini>- the knife
out of the body and wiping tlie blood off' with his
liandkerchief, he coollv remarked: "You will
never tell me I lied again." The gambler was
known as "Bloody Dick," or "New Orleans Dick."
He was a New Orleans Irishman, and a bard case.
Rumor said that this was the third man he had
killed. I was within three or four feet of the man
when he fell oflf his seat and expired. Word went
immediately throughout the town that " Bloody
Dick '' had killed a man. In the meantime two
men had seized him and taken his arms away, and
in less than one minute be was surrounded by forty
or fifty excited men, well armed, with a full determi-
nation that he would not liave a chance to kill any
more. It had been the custom among the gamblers,
when one of the fraternity got into a scrape, to see
him out. Ten or twelve drew their revolvers, but,
seeing the angry crowd, they came to the con-
clusion that they would let Dick take his chances.
In less than ten minutes there was a crowd of at
least five hundred men gathered in and around the
saloon where the cutting took i)lace. A motion
was made by some of the crowd that he be hanged
right away, but the crowd voted him a fair trial and
a chance for his life. Tiie crowd elected a middle-
64 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ti^ed man to act as judge and another as marshal.
The marshal summoned twelve men to serve as
jurors, who were immediately sworn. The judge
sat on a big pine log in the street. The witnesses
were called and sworn. They were the men who
were playing at the game when the man was killed.
Other witnesses also testified to the facts in the
case. The case was then given to tlic jury, who
returned a verdict of "guilty of murder in the first
degree." The question was then put to the crowd:
"What shall be done with the prisoner?" Some
one moved that he be hanged. The motion was
seconded, and the man who acted as judge put the
motion to the crowd, and a unanimous shout went
up from at least one thousand men, "Hang him!"
The prisoner in the meantime was present, using
the most blasphemous language to the men en-
gaged in his trial that ever polluted the ears of a
civilized man. The prisoner was then j)laced in a
wagon drawn by two mules, and escorted by at
least one thousand men to the fatal tree, a little
back of the town, where five of his sort had already
paid the penalty of their crimes by hanging from
one of its limbs. It was a large oak tree. The
wagon was driven under it, the rope tied around
his neck and thrown over the limb, and hauled
tight and made fast. He was in tlie meantime
cursing the crowd, his God, and everything else,
and spat in the faces of the men that were adjust-
ing the rope. When everything was ready, the
DESCRIPTION OF HANGTOWN. 65
mules were started forward, leaving the body
swinging between the earth and the limb to which
he was hanging. Some of the guard stayed at the
tree for nearly an liour, so as to be sure he was
dead. The body was cut down, and buried a short
distance from the tree on which he was executed.
That was a trial where justice was meted out
with dispatch. No lawyers were present, no testi-
mony objected to as incompetent, irrelevant and
immaterial. When witnesses were sworn to tell
the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the
truth, they seldom if ever perjured themselves. It
was not over one hour from the time the murder
was committed at the saloon before the doer of it
was tried and execuied. N^o appeal was taken fr(mi
Judge Lynch's Court to the Supreme Court. His
decision was final.
A few days after the hanging of "Bloody Dick,"
the old historic oak was cut down by some indi-
vidual who tliought that six men were sufiicient to
die on one tree. .In an hour after tlie hanging
everything was as quiet as usual. It caused ex^
citement only for the time during the trial and ex-
ecution. So much for my first experience at Judge
Lynch's Court.
In a few days after the hanging of "Blood}'
Dick,'' Hangtown came near having a far more
serious tragedy enacted in her streets. Some time
previous there had been trouble in Sacramento be-
tween what were called the "squatters," and the
6'6 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
civil autliorities. The "squatters" settled on lands
that they supposed to be Government lands, but
the speculators claimed the land from titles ob-
tained from General Sutter. The speculators
obtained writs of ejectment from the courts, and
the Sheriff of Sacramento county, trying to enforce
them, brought on a conflict, in which the Sheriff
was killed with six of his deputies and several of
the "squatters." Some of the wounded squatters
were brought to Hangtown, as they were con-
sidered safer up there than in Sacramento. The
miners generally sympathized with them. One
Sunday, in the forenoon, word came to Hangtown
that the Sheriff and a posse of thirty men were on
their way from Sacramento to arrest and take to
Sacramento the wounded "squatters" for trial for
murder and riot. It being. Sunday, the miners
were all in town, together with the newly-arrived
emigrants ; there were at least two thousand men
on hand. A public meeting was called, which
was addressed by some of the leading "squatters."
Resolutions were passed that no "squatter" should
be taken from Hangtown by the Sheriff and his
posse. Between 12 and 1 o'clock the Sheriff and
his men made their apj)earance, coming over the
brow of the hill looking down on Hangtown, each
man armed with a rifle and revolvers. In the
streets of Hangtown and on the outskirts were five
or six hundred men armed in like manner, as fully
determined that the officers should make no
DESCRIPTION OF HANGTOWN. 67
arrests of any of the "squatters" who had sought
their protection. Tlie Sheriff and his posse were
met just before entering the town by a connnittee,
who informed them of the state of affairs and of
the resolution passed a couple of hours previous.
The Sheriff being a man of cool head, and having
his j)redecessor's fate before him, wisely concluded
not to attempt to make any arrests, but was
allowed to come quietly into town, take all the
refreshments themselves and horses wanted, which
they did, and, on leaving, was informed never
again to visit Hangtown on such an errand, which
advice I firmly believe he took and adhered to.
During nearly thirty-eight years of life on the
Pacific Coast I never have seen a day that bade
fairer for a day of blood than that Sunday morning
in the summer of 1850. But, thanks to an over-
ruling Providence and the cool heads and good
judgment of the Sheriff and the leaders on the
other side, the calamity was avoided, and the
history of the State had not to record one more
bloody affair.
PTOIirEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER VL
Mining Experiences.
First experience in mining.— The frightened Chinaman.— Foreigners^
mining license. — A foreigner from Pike.— Helping the "under dog"
in a fight. — Fighting Sheriffs. — Hunting for new diggings. — The ants
and the " graybacks."— Georgetown. — Missouri gulch.
Every emigrant had to try his hand at mining*
and expected to be one of the lucky ones ; and I
was no exception to the rule. I was offered ten
dollars per day to work at my trade, but T wouldn't
look at that amount — it was too small. So myself
and another man, Godfrey HofFmaster, formed a
partnership and went to mining. We put our
capital together and purchased a mining outfit,
which consisted of one rocker, one dipper, two
buckets to carry the dirt in, two shovels, one pick
and one pan. Our kitchen was composed of one
fry pan, one coffee pot, two tin cups and two tin
plates. The whole outfit cost us fifty-one dollars
and fifty cents, and " broke" both of us. But what
did we care for that? Getting a week's provisions
on credit, we started down Hangtown Creek
looking for a claim.
MINING EXPERIENCES. 69
About a mile below town we found two fellows
washing. During conversation tliey pointed to a
claim or vacant piece of ground a short distance
from them, which they thought would pay. They
were right good fellows. They instructed us in
the way of setting our rockers, so as to save the
fine gold, and other mysteries of getting the
precious metal extracted from the gravel. Hang-
town Creek was considered to be among the
richest of the diggings then discovered, but it had
been vacated by the miners for the river diggings
and the lower bars of the American River, which
left a good show for the newly-arrived emigrants.
We staked out our claim — it was then law that
no miner should hold more than thirty feet square —
and commenced business. Our first work was
stripping off the top dirt about four feet deep,
when we came to gravel or pay dirt. This gravel
was about one foot or fifteen inches from the bed-
rock, and we had to carry it in buckets to the
cradle, which was set on the edge of a water-hole in
the main creek, about twenty yards from our
claim. The bed of the creek was dry, except that
a few water-holes were yet standing in low places.
The first day we washed up about twenty- five
dollars out of one hundred buckets of gravel. We
worked here for a couple of weeks, averaging
about fifteen dollars per day, until the water gave
out, and we were forced to hunt other diggings.
We moved to what was known as Webber Creek,
70 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
where I got my first look at a Chinaman. The
fellow was c(miing clown the creek with a big broad
hat on, dressed in what seemed to me to be
women's clothes, with a bamboo pole on his
shoulders with two great bundles at each end. I
told my partner I was going to see that Chinaman,
and getting out of the claim I halted "John," to
give him a thorough examination. He commenced
begging, saying he had no money.
"Me velly poo' Chinaman — no muchee dust.''
At the same time he pulled out a bag of dust,
which he offered to give me if I would let him go.
I told him that I did not want to rob him, but to
look at him. After a while he began to comj)re-
liend what I wanted, and pulled down his queue,
showed me his bundle, and gave me some China
tea, and I gave him his dinner, after which we
parted "velly good fiends." While I worked there
"John" would make us a call whenever he passed
that wav.
At that time all foreigners had to pay a license
of twenty dollars 'peA' month for working in the
mines. One day the Sheriff hove in sight. I was
not a fuU-fiedged American citizen at tliat time.
He came up to us and asked if there were any
foreigners in that crowd. I told him, "Yes, I am
a foreigner.'' He said he wanted twenty dollars
for mv miners' license. I told him he would have
a great time in getting it. He told me if I did not
MINING EXPERIENCES. 71
pay it "damn quick" he would take ine to
Hana^towM.
" Where are you from '?" he asked.
" Prom Pike county, Missouri," said I.
"You're a damn fool — that's in the United
States."
I looked at him with all the appearance of
innocence I could command and asked him if it
ivas in the United States. He turned from me in
disgust. Then I said to him:
"Your name is Bill Kogers, is it nof?"
"Yes."
" Don't you remember one night in the winter of
'49, when two fellows had you cornered in the
Planters' House in Peoria, and a fellow helped you
outr'
"Yes; I remember very well."
"Yes; well, I was that fellow."
" The d — 1 you were !"
About that time he got hold of my hands and
gave them a warm embrace. I had to sit down
and tell him all the news from Peoria and the East
in general. When I was leaving he asked how I
was off for money. He put his hand in his
pocket and drew out four or five Mexican ounces
and wanted me to take them, but I told him I was
in no need of money at that time, but if I got
"broke" I would call on him. I never was called
on to pay mining license after that while I was in
El Dorado county.
72 • PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
I will explain how I came to help old Bill out.
One night, after work was over in the shop, I was
knocking about the city, when I went into the bar-
room of the Planters' House to take a drink with
the man that was with me. There were three
fellows quarreling in one corner of the room — two
of them after the third. 1 alwa} s had a weakness
for helping the "under-dog." I looked on for a
minute or so, and saw they were likely to get the
best of the fellow, and without thinking what the
consequences might be, made for the corner,
"whaled away" at one fellow, and laid him out.
About that time I thought my room would be
better than my company, and so made a retreat in
good order for the shop. The fellow whom they
had in the corner was Bill Rogers, who, the next
year, became Sheriff of El Dorado county, Cali-
fornia. Rogers told me that until that day on
Webber Creek he never knew who it was that
helped him out of that scrape.
This sketch would not be complete without
saying a few words more about Rogers. Along
in what were called the "flush times" (eai'ly in
the forties), the Southwest, and the Mississijipi
River in particular, was infested with a lot of
gamblers and desperadoes who terrorized the
country. They were aboard of every steamer,
plying their calling, and would often gather in the
towns along the river and run them to suit them-
selves. The people of Natchez formed themselves
MINING EXPERIENCES. 73
into a vigilance committee to drive them out and
protect themselves. The day was set and they
stood fight. Several on both sides were killed, and
the rest of the gamblers were driven into the
Mississippi River. Bill Rogers was one of them.
He swam the Mississippi River at Natchez and got
away. He rambled around the Mississijipi River
and the South generally, until gold was discovered
in California, when he caine to this country, where
hundreds of the same sort of men came. From
tliis class were made many of the early sheriffs of
California. They and what were known as Texas
Rangers furnished nine-tenths of the sheriff's of
California of early days, and most of them made
good ofiicers. It was generally supposed that the
main qualification for a sherijBf was to be a fighting
man. There was plenty of material to choose
from. Rogers served his time out as Sherifif of El
Dorado, and a year or two afterwards, when the}^
had an Indian war in that portion of the State, he
was appointed to command the troops raised for
the purpose of j)utting down the Indians. After-
wards several bills were introduced in the Legis-
lature to indemnify him for his services, but
whether he got any of them through or not I have
forgotten. I saw a notice of his death several
years afterwards, the old man dying in poverty.
Few men of his day saw niore startling events or
had more narrow escapes than old Rogers. Peace
to his ashes.
74 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Bat let us return to the diggings.
Webber didn't pay us very well, and we picked
up our "traps" and started to hunt better diggings.
We made Georgetown our objective point, and
started with our mining tools and camp furniture
on our backs, we having not yet risen to the dignity
of having a mule or a jack upon which to pack our
worldly goods. Ooloma lay on our road. We took
in the sights in that burg, and tlien proceeded across
the American River and up a pretty tall mountain
— with the load we had to pack it seemed to me a
very tall one before we reached the top. Travel-
ing along on the mountain we came to a level
place, where we saw two men sitting under a big-
oak tree. They had no shirts on, and seemed to be
busily engaged. We wanted a rest, and went to
them. In those days men needed no introduction
— all was free and easy. We did not stand on
ceremony, but went to see what they were doing,
and found them engaged in a very interesting
game. Their shirts were spread out near a large
ant-hill, and each man had several Mexican dollars
in front of him and was betting on the ants.
Their shirts were pretty well covered with vermin,
and each ant running over the shirts would seize
a "grayback'' and make for the ant-hill with it.
The betting was as to which ant would get to the
ant-hill first with his "gray back." They wanted
us to join the game, but we respectfully declined,
not being expert in the racing qualities of Cali-
MINING EXPERIENCES. 75
lornia ants. But the experience we gained proved
very useful to us in after days. The ant-liill was
often resorted to when "gray backs" became too
plentiful in camp.
We reached Georgetown, and were directed to a
place where we would find good diggings — Oregon
gulch, or Missouri gulch — by the storekeeper.
Storekeepers generally were supposed to know
where the good diggings were, and, if they didn't
know, they would try to make you believe they did.
We went to Missouri gulch and pitched our camp.
We got a good prospect and built a brush tent
and commenced operations, but were not very suc-
cessful. A beavy rain coming on our brush tent
would not turn the water very well, which made
tilings very uncomfortable. The winter was now
close at band — or rather, we thought so. We made
up our minds to go back to Hangtown, build a
cabin and winter there. We started back with the
same load of "traps" on our backs, none the better
oJEf financially.
76 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER VII.
Departure for Sacramento.
Return to Hangtown. — Departure for Sacramento. — The miners' hard
hfe. — Sleeping on a feather bed. — Sights and experiences in Sacra-
mento. — Thieves, "Sydney Ducks," and gamblers. — Stolen potatoes.
— On trial for larceny.
Arriving at Hangtown I found Dave Young
there looking for nie. He had been at Sacramento
and sold the wagon for three hundred dollars ; that
was two hundred more than it cost in Peoria. It
was a spring wagon, and was afterwards used as a
stage between Sacramento and Marysville. He
sold our big-footed horse with one of the mules for
a good figure, and kept two of the mules for family
use. He wanted me to go with him to the southern
mines to winter, and I agreed to do so. I sold my
interest in the mining outfit to my partner, and
bade good-bye to Hangtown, and I have not seen it
since.
I had "fooled around" for nearly two months,
worked hard and made nothing at mining. It was
not tlie fault of the mines — the fault lay with my-
self. I did not know how to take advantage of
things. Everything was new to me, and I ex-
DEPARTURE FOR SACRAMENTO.
pected too iniicb. My case was that of thousands
of others. Mining in those days was yet in its
infancy, and the lot of a miner was a hard one.
With no settled abode, he packed his traps on his
back from one gulch to another, some times a long
distance, taking days to make the trip. Then his
mode of living was hard. The country afforded
few of the necessaries of life and none of the lux-
uries. The "everlasting slap-jack'' and rancid
bacon, with black coffee, and sugar imported from
China in mats, with a few beans thrown in, was
generally the miner's bill of fare, and that, too,
cooked by themselves in no very stylish manner.
Sunday was generally occupied in washing shirts,
socks, etc., and cooking for the remainder of the
week. Some of the boys would go to town or the
trading post and lay in whatever stores were want-
ing for camp. There were no vegetables of any
description to be had in the mines. This was be-
fore the era of canned goods. The only fruit we
could get was dried apples and peaches, and these
were generally composed of fruit and worms in
equal proportions.
I started for Sacramento City, with my blankets
on my back. At Greenwood Valley the polls were
open, it being election day. I cast my first vote
there, no registry laws being in force at that time,
and everybody voted. I picked up a Whig ticket
and voted it. One of the judges arose from his
seat and took me bv the hand and asked where I
PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
was from. He said he was afraid his ticket would
be alone in the box, as I was the second Whig who
had voted that day. After voting I shouldered
niv bed and started. A teamster overtook me on
the road, and I gave him five dollars to let me ride
in his wagon to the Fourteen-Mile House, where
I wanted to stay over night, as the Fourteen -Mile
House was kept by an old man and his wife from
Peoria, with whom I was some acquainted when in
that city. We arrived in due time, and I gave the
old folks a short history of their friends in Peoria.
They were glad to see me, and, when night came
on, they would not think of letting me sleep in my
blankets, but gave me the spare room, with a
feather bed in it. I thought I had struck a " soft
thing," but it was too soft altogether for me. I lay
and rolled all over the feathers, but not a bit of
sleep could I get until about daylight, when I
turned out, unrolled my blankets and lay down on
the floor, and in a jiffy I was fast asleej), and did
not wake until the landlord came, about 9 o'clock,
to see what was the matter with me. I told the old
lady that when I called again, I hoped she would
not put me in her feather bed.
On my way from the Fourteen -Mile House I
overtook a fellow who, like myself, was on his way
to Sacramento. We traveled together until we got
to the city, where we found a lodging-house.
When shown to our room, to leave our blankets,
we found it was "some" of a room. There were
DEPARTURE FOR SACRAMENTO. 79
about seventy-five or eighty bunks in it, built in
the shape of berths in the hold of an emigrant
ship, three tiers deep, with a straw mattress on
each bunk; the guest had to furnish the balance of
the outfit or go without. Eor this we had to pay
one doHar per night, with "gray backs'' thrown in.
After leaving our blankets on our bunks, we
thought we would take in the city and see the
sights, and soon were on J street, then the principal
business street of Sacramento City. In front of
one of the gambling-houses was a young fellow
dealing three-card monte. We halted for a few
minutes to see the game. The fellow who was
dealing gave the cards a shufile, and invited us to
make a bet. My traveling companion marked one
of the cards, and whisi)ered to me that he had the
"deadwood " on it. I advised him not to do it, but
he would try his luck, consequently he pulled his
dust. The gambler weighed it and found three
ounces in it, and placing three Mexican onzas on
top of the bag of dust, told the "sucker" to turn
up the card. The latter turned up his marked
card, but instead of the queen he had marked there
was a jack in her place. The fellow made a grab
for the coin and dust, and getting them, he broke
like a quarter-horse up J street, the gambler after
him. The gambler grabbed his pistol and fired
one shot without effect, but he dared not shoot any
more at him for fear of shooting somebody else. I
stayed by the table until he got back. In his hurry
80 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
to ^et a shot at "greeny" he liadleft his bag of onzas
on the table with the cards. When he came back
he said to me: " — you, you are his partner; I will
blow the top of your head off; that it was a put-uj)
job." I said, " If it was a put-up job, look to your
purse. If it was a j)ut-up job I would have taken
your purse while you were gone and have run
away, which you see I did not do, but guarded it
faithfully, and you would blow the top of my head
off for that, would you^' The fellow thought a
moment and said, '' You are right.'' He then told
me that if I would find the fellow he would give
me the six onzas. I told him I was not in the
detective business at that time, and left.
Sacramento at that time was not a very large
I)lace, the principal business being done on tw^o
streets, J and K, out to Eighth street. The gamb-
ling-houses were the best buildings in the city, and
were crowded day and night. The most of them
employed bands of music and other devices, where-
by they might attract attention. Thousands of
dollars changed hands every day and night at these
gilded palaces. The mercantile houses were gener-
ally one-story frame or iron houses, imported from
the East. The amount of business done in Sacra-
mento at that time was immense, the streets from
early morning until night being full of great
wagons and pack trains loading goods for themines.
Everything was bustle and excitement. All sorts
of labor was high and in demand, more especially
DEPARTURE FOR SACRAMENTO. 81
builders. Any man that could saw a board off
would get ten or twelve dollars a day. The old horse-
market on Sixth and K streets at that time was a
place of much attraction, everything in the shape
of wagons, horses, mules and oxen being sold. The
newly-arrived emigrant generally went there to dis-
pose of his outfit. It was a perfect Babel, and the
resort of thieves and pickpockets generally. If a
man bought an animal at their sales he was in
luck if he got him one block from where he pur-
chased him before a gang of scoundrels would
prove it away from him. They were organized in
gangs, and one of them would seize the halter by
which you were leading your animal, commence
cursing you for a thief, stating you had stolen that
animal from him, and he would have it or blow the
top of your head off. You were generally taken
before an alcalde, as the magistrates were then called,
and you were in luck if your animal was not
proven away from you by the gang. Sometimes
they caught a Tartar. Dave Young and myself
one day were leading two of the mules through the
horse-market when one of the gang stepped up to
Dave and asked him where he got those mules ?
Dave told him it was none of his business where he
got them. The fellow claimed them as his, and
said they were stolen from him about a week ago,
and he was going to have them. Seizing the halter,
Dave in a moment covered him with his revolver,
and told him to let go that rope immediately, or
82 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFOENIA.
there would be one less thief in Sacramento. The
fellow let go very quickly. A constable brought
us before the alcalde, and Dave showed his bill of
sale from Major Ogden of the mules purchased at
Port Leavenworth that spring. They were two of
the mules we brought across the j)lains.
Dave Young, myself and two others agreed to go
to the middle mines to winter. We bought a tent
and pitched it about where L street is now, in
order to have time to fit out and lay in our sup-
plies for the winter. The rainy season or winter
was generallv dreaded bv the miners. The winter
of '49 was a very severe one, and many miners suf-
fered in consequence of not having made proper
arrangements, such as building cabins and laying
in supplies before tlie rain commenced. We re-
mained in the city some two weeks. During that
time two of us generally stayed in camp, and the
other two attended to business and took in the
sights. It was necessary to guard the camp, as the
city was full of thieves. Australia had sent us
hundreds of her light-fingered gentry, and San
Erancisco had driven them out to prey upon the
balance of the State. They were called " Sidney
Ducks." With them and some of our own dead
beats you had to keej) a sharp lookout. At night
the gambling-houses were crowded, with bands of
music playing, tables loaded with gold and silver,
bars fitted up in most elegant style with liquor of
the choicest brands and everything that ingenuity
DEPARTURE FOR SACRAMENTO. 83
could invent to make the gilded parlors attractive.
Xo money was spared; each one tried to outdo the
other in the splendor of his establishment. Erom
dark until the early hours of the morning these
houses were crowded. Men who afterwards be-
came the rulers of the State, both executive and
judicial, were either dealers or patrons of their
tables. Men seemed to live only for the present —
all was excitement. Many a miner with a purse
well-filled with his hard earnings in the mines, was
sunk in those gilded hells, and not only the miners,
but merchants, mechanics, and all classes of man-
kind, seemed to be carried away with the mania
for gambling.
Many an amusing incident took place in and
around the city in those earl}" days. We had a
young fellow in our tent by the name of A. H.
Wills, or Doc Wills, as we were in the habit of
calling him. Doc was as honest and good-natured
a fellow as ever lived, but not very sharj). One
night, after paying our respects to the gambling-
houses, we were attracted to an auction-house, on
J street, and we went in to see what was going on.
The auctioneer was busy in selling goods. We
leaned against an open barrel of potatoes standing
in the room, and I picked up a big "spud" and
slipped it into Doc's big Missouri-coat pocket. I
thought he would notice it, but he did not. I then
stepped on the other side of him and put in two
more potatoes, got back to the first pocket and
84 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
put in another, expecting he would discover them
and jjive me the usual cursing. Presently we
started for camp and went to bed, Next morning
it was Doc's turn to get up and cook breakfast. I
woke him and told him to get up and cook the
potatoes he had.
" Potatoes,'' he exclaiuied, " where would I get
potatoes ? "
" O, the potatoes you stole from Starr's auction -
rooms last night."
''I didn't steal any potatoes," said he.
"Yes you did," said I, j)alling the coat from
under his head and taking the potatoes out of his
pockets, " do you see these f
" Yes ! This is one of your d — d tricks," said he,
and then he gave me one of the warmest " blessings"
T ever received. He would not cook the potatoes,
but while we were snarling over it, Dave Young
had the potatoes cooking, and we made a jolly good
breakfast. They were the first i)otatoes we had
had since leaving Salt Lake. They say stolen fruit
tastes the sweetest, but I can vouch for the stolen
potatoes tasting good.
Several years after I |3aid dearly for those four
potatoes. I was on my way from Weaverville to
San Francisco. When on board of the steamer be-
tween Colusa and the city I met a friend of mine
by the name of John Smith. He was a large ditch
owner in Shasta county. He introduced me to
friends of his — W. E. Ealston and J. B. Starr. I
DEPARTURE FOR SACRAMENTO. 85
asked Mr. Starr if lie was the f^entleman that was
in the auction business on J street in 1850. He
said he was the same individual. I then told him
of my joke on Doc Wills, and Mr. Starr thought I
was indebted to him for four potatoes and tlie
interest thereon up to date. Ralston, looking at
Starr and giving him a wink, said :
"Mr. Starr, you have no right to settle with him
in that way — that would be compounding a felony.
He must have a trial."
They then organized a court in the saloon of the
steamer, appointed the captain marshal and Ral-
ston judge, and proceeded with the trial. They
examined the witness who heard me make the con-
fession. When it came to my turn I i^leaded au-
thority — want of potatoes — a joke, and ever}^ other
plea I could think of. But it was in vain, they
were bound to iind me guilty. When asked what
I had to say why the sentence of the court should
not be passed on me, I told the Judge to crack his
whip and go ahead — I had my share of those po-
tatoes and he could not get them away from me.
The sentence of the court was that should be
fined one dozen bottles of the best wine on board,
and if not paid I was to be confined to my room
and receive nothing to eat but potatoes during the
remainder of the trip. I paid the fine, and all
hands made a night of it. So ended my potato
scrape.
86 PIONEEE DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER VIIL
Drifting About.
Cholera. — Departure for Calaveras. — Life in a cabin. — A remedy worse
than the disease. — Excitement over the Gold Bluff mines. — Off
for 'Frisco. — Frightened by a woman. — San Francisco in '50.
We were anxious to get away from Sacramento,
as the cholera had visited the city, and people were
dying at the rate of from ten to twenty a day. We
purchased a light wagon, and left for what was
called "the middle diggings," our objective point
being Jackson, then in Calaveras county. Goods
" cost money " in those days. I paid thirty dollars
for a pair of cowhide boots to mine in — rubber
boots were not yet introduced in Calif (u-nia. All
other clothing was proportionately dear. We
packed our wagon and started for Jackson, and on
the third day arrived at the little town of Amador,
where there were said to be good diggings. When
the rains set in we prospected for a day or two,
and, finding nothing that suited us, we struck out
for Sutter creek, about four miles south of Amador.
Sutter creek we found a beautiful clear stream, and
but very little mining being done on it. The cele-
brated Volcano diggings were on the head of the
DRIFTING ABOUT. 87
creek, and a mining camp called Grass Valley.
We prospected Sutter creek and found sufficient
prospects to induce us to give the place a trial. Our
first operation was to build a cabin for the winter,
which we began to do immediately, as it was
threatening rain, and there was no time to lose.
Our cabin was built of logs and had a shake roof —
one log high on the upper side and two logs high on
the lower side. When leveled off inside it was
high enough. This was the first house I ever saw
built without the use of nails or of anything in the
shape of iron. The chimney was built of mud and
sticks, the holes chinked with wood and plastered
with mud, and, when it was completed, we were
very proud of our work and had a comfortable and
stylish residence. Our bed-room set was composed
of sticks, or posts, driven into the floor, and shakes
nailed on them. Our mattresses were pine leaves
spread on top of the shakes, and our blankets on
top of them; our dining table was made similarly
to our bedstead ; our chairs were made out of slabs,
with three legs in them, and were commonly called
three-legged stools. I believe this inventory com-
prises all our household furniture. We completed
our structure on Saturday, and, before moving, we
thought we would clean up. The next day being
Sunday, was devoted to a general boiling of our
clothes to get clear of our "graybacks," so as not
to take them into our cabin. I had read, or was
told, that boiling your underclothing in tobacco
PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
water was certain death to all sorts of vermin, and
"graybaoks" in particular. We had plenty of
tobacco in camp, and I thought I would try the
experiment on mine. After breakfast I started
into the laundry business by making a fire close
to a small brook that ran near our cabin,
getting the camp-kettle on the fire and put-
ting my shirt into it with the requisite amount
of water and a good-sized plug of tobacco. Soon I
had my "gray backs" in a warm place. I looked
on it with a good deal of satisfaction, thinking, " I
am getting even with you fellows now for the
amount of scratching you made me do during your
sojourn with me as my closest companions." I
cooked them for an hour, thinking by that time
they would not annoy me any more, and then
washed the clothes out in the brook, and spread
them out to dry. As soon as my shirts were sufii-
ciently dry, I took a bath in the brook, and put on
the clean ones. In less than fifteen minutes I com-
menced getting sick — cramps all over, sick at the
stomach, and vomiting. I thought my time had
come ; that I had the cholera sure. I was lying
beside the fire in all the agony of what I thought
was a first-class case of the cholera. Coming
recently from Sacramento, where this dread disease
was doing its work so eft'ectually, the first thing
to come to my mind was that I liad caught it while
in the city. Dave Young being in the cabin and
hearing me, came to see what was the matter. See-
DRIFTING ABOUT. 89
ing lue lying down he said to me, "What ailsyouT'
I told him as well as I could tliat I had the cliolera
and was going to die sure, requesting him to see me
decently buried and send what money I had to my
mother, and give her an account of ni}^ death. He
asked what I liad been doing, at the same time
looking into the camp-kettle he saw the tobacco in
it, w inch had swelled in boiling until the kettle was
lialf full of tobacco leaves. He said, "Have you
been boiling that shirt that you have on in that
kettlel" I told him I had. "Cholera be d— d !
Take that shirt off as soon as you can get it off."
But I was in no condition to take the shirt off — I
was too far gone for that ; but he soon had it off, and
in a few minutes after I felt better, and by night I
was all right, but ver}^ weak. I firmly believe that
it would have killed me inside of one hour if I had
not taken the shirt off. The tobacco that remained
in the cloth acted on the heart, stomach and bowels
in a fearful manner, and came very near making an
angel of me. I got rid of the "graybacks," but
the remedy was worse than the disease ; I never
tried it again.
We worked on the creek some time before the
rains commenced. The fall of '50 was a very dry
season, and but little was done — everybody waiting
for rain, of which very little came until late in the
spring of '51.
Along in the summer of '50 the Gold Bluff
mines were discovered, and the newspapers were
90 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
full of the wonderful richness of those beach dig-
gings, where shiploads of black sand could be
gathered up on the beach, of which at least half
was said to be gold. Those beach diggings were
said to be situated between Trinidad Bay and the
mouth of the Klamath River. Vessels were adver-
tised to sail for tliis new El Dorado every day, and,
according to the newpaper accounts, nothing like it
was ever known since the days of King Solomon's
Ophir. Besides the Gold Bluffs, there were on the
north the Trinitv Biver, the Salmon Biver, and
the Klamath Biver, all represented to be overflow-
ing with the precious njetal. There were two old
gentlemen from Arkansas who wintered in the next
cabin to us, who told us that on all the bars of the
Salmon and Klamath sixteen dollars per day was
considered but small pay, and that the Trinity Biver
was very rich, but very unhealthy, owing to the im-
mense run of salmon up that stream of which so
many died the water became bad and unhealthy.
We thought we would give the Trinity a wide berth.
While on Sutter Greek I had my first view of' a
California Digger Indian. He appeared on the
claim one day dressed in a full suit of Adamite
clothes, with the excei)tion of a fine beaver hat,
shining as bright, to all appearances, as the day it
came out of its first case. That Digger felt big, you
mav be sure. The claim which we worked that
winter and abandoned, if we had had the sense to
work it properly, was worth tens of thousands of
DRIFTING ABOUT. 91
dollars. There were acres of ground that would
pay ten cents to the bucket. We packed the gravel
in buckets some twenty-five or thirty yards to the
water, and averaged ten dollars per day, but had
not sense enough to bring the water to the dirt.
By going up the creek a mile or so we could have
dug a ditch that would have covered ten years'
diggings. But we never thought of that. The
winter so far was dry, and we became dissatisfied,
and, catching the northern fever, wanted to try our
luck in the northern mines, or Gold Bluffs; so one
fine day we loaded our wagon with what plunder
we had and started for Sacramento, leaving our
cabin and improvements all behind. Halting at
the town of Amador, Dave Young told me to get
the bottle out of the back end of the wagon, go into
the store and get it full of whisky. I started, got
the bottle and went to the store, and bolted in as
brave as a sheep. Behind the counter stood a
woman. I looked at her a moment, and was so
completely taken by surprise that I could not say
a word, but turned around and bolted from the
store as if she had been a grizzly. Dave seeing
me come out of the store in a hurry, wanted to
know if I got the whisky. I told him no. He
wanted to know why, and I told him there was a
woman in there, and, if he wanted the whisky, he
would have to get it himself. Dave was an old
"bach." He said, "I hope you will always be as
afraid of the women as vou are now." I had not
92 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
seen a woman for six inoiitlis, and not expecting to
see one in there, I was taken completely by sur-
prise. In due time we arrived in Sacramento, sold
our wagon and surplus "traps," sliij)ped ourselves
and males on board a steamer for San Francisco,
intending to go up the coast to the northern mines,
as it was not considered safe to go by land so early
in the season. Arriving in San Francisco, we found
everything was on the drive, the city over-crowded
with peoj^le, and hundreds arriving daily from all
quarters of the globe. San Francisco in 1850 was
but a small place, yet a large city for only two
years' growth. Where the principal wholesale
business is now done vessels and steamers sailed
in 1850.
OFF FOR TRINIDAD AND GOLD BLUFF. 93
CHAPTER IX.
Off FOR Trinidad and Gold Bluff.
Sailing on the " Minerva " for Trinidad Bay. — Rough weather. — A row
with the negro cook. — The bill of fare. — Arrival at Trinidad. — Off
for Salmon River.
San Erancisco in '50, like Sacramento, was com-
posed principally of one-story buildings, many of
them shipped around Oape Horn, some of wood
and others of corrugated iron. Rents were fabu-
lously liigTi. A good store room would rent for
from three to six hundred dollars j)er month, and
some even higher. Very little lumber or building
material was to be had in the country. Merchan-
dise, such as was in demand in the mines, was sold
at enormous profit, while thousands of dollars'
worth of goods which were shipped from different
points of the world to San Francisco on specula-
tion, but were not in demand, were sacrificed for
almost nothing, and storage was so higli it would
not pay to store them. I might say millions of
property went to destruction in that way in the
early davs of San Francisco.
San Francisco in 1850 presented a miniature
94 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
view of the world. There you could see men from
all parts of the world in their national costumes, and
ships of different nations of the earth in port. The
plaza and surroundings were the most conspicuous
part of the city. It was surrounded with cfambling-
houses which out-shone those of Sacramento in the
splendor of their equipments and attractions to
draw patronage to their tables.
The postoffice was somewhat of an institution at
that time. We had but two mails a month from
the Atlantic States, and on the arrival of each
steamer it would take six or seven hours of stand-
ing in line before you could get to the office win-
dow. Many men made good wages by taking
their places in the line, and then selling out their
chances for from five to ten dollars. When they
got close to the office window they would sell to
men who had not tinie to spare from their business,
and then take their places at the back of the line,
and work up to the window, and sell again.
In the early part of January, '51, the Gold Bluff
excitement had somewhat subsided, yet along the
docks there were several vessels advertised to sail
for the northern mines. They generally had a
sign painted and hung in the rigging: "This vessel
will sail for Trinidad, Gold Bluff, Klamath, Sal-
mon Biver and Trinity mines to-morrow afternoon,"
and to-morrow afternoon would generally be ten or
fifteen days ahead. We purchased two more mules
in San Francisco, making four in all, and j^ur-
OFF FOR TRINIDAD AND GOLD BLUFF. 95
cluised sufficient mining stores and tools to load
them, ciilcuLiting about two linndred and tifty
pounds to the mule. We chose the old bark
Minerva as likely to be the first that would sail,
paying fifty dollars for each passenger and forty
dollars for each mule to Trinidad Bay. Aft(n- eight
or ten days we got started, or at least the old ship
did, with about forty passengers and twenty mules.
The passengers like ourselves were bound for the
northern diggings. We cut close from the docks
about 11 o'clock in the forenoon and headed for
the Golden Gate. Doc was a westerner and had
never been to sea, and everything about the ship
was new to him. Just before dinner he came to
me with a smile on his face and said: "Jack, we
are going to have a splendid time of it; dinner will
be ready pretty soon, and we are going to have
fresh beef and potatoes for dinner, and they won't
be stolen either." About the time dinner was
ready the old ship was getting down near tlie
"heads,'' and was rolling a little. The dinner was
set on deck, each mess furnishing their own dishes
to hold it in. I took notice of Doc ; he was be-
ginning to get a little white about "the gills," and
I thought then, "My lad, you will not enjoy your
potatoes and fresh beef much today.'' He got half
through with his dinner, with a big potato in his
hand, when he jumped up and broke for the side
of the ship, damning the potatoes, the ship, the
ocean, and things in general. He crawled into his
96 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
blankets and staid there until we ^ot to Trindad.
Por three or four days we had pleasant weather,
and things went on pretty smoothly. We were
congratulating each other on having a good passage,
but we were badly deceived in that. About the
fourth night out there came up a regular south-
easter, accompanied by rain, which made the old
ship some times quiver froui stem to stern. The
mules were on deck during the storm ; part of, the
time they were on Iheir feet, but most of the time
it would be liard to tell how the}" were. How
any of them came out alive I never could
imagine, and yet when we got to port none of them
were seriously hurt. Nearly all the jiassengers
were sick during the storm. It was a hard looking
sight in the hold of the old Minerva during that
storm. The most of the passengers were western
men and never had any experience at sea, I being
the only one in our crowd who was able to be
about. To make the matter worse, the old ship's
decks leaked during the rain, and our berths were
right under where the mules stood, and we had the
benefit of the manure that leaked through. One
morning some of the boys thought they could eat a
little breakfast if I would get it for them. The
gold pan that we used for our hash dish was half
full of water and manure that had leaked through
the previous night, but I managed to get it on
deck and empty it overboard, and carried it to the
galley, to get our scouse. In there was a big negro
OFF FOR TRINIDAD AND GOLD BLUFF- 97
cook. I i)oiiited out the filth on the side of the
dish, and requested him to wash it. Instead of
doing so he doused the scouse into it, remarking
that it was clean enough for me. That raised my
Irish fighting qualities. Without thinking a
moment, I hurled the scouse, dish and all, into the
negro's face, then grabbed a billet of his wood in
one hand, my pistol in the other, and awaited de-
velopments. As soon as the negro got the scouse
out of his eyes, he grabbed his butcher-knife.
There we stood. He did not like the looks of my
Colt's revolver and club any better than I liked his
big butcher-knife. About that time the mate,
hearing the fuss on deck, poked his head out of
the cabin door, and seeing the war-like attitude of
the cook and myself, jumped between us in a
moment. I do not know how the darkey felt about
his interference, but I was very glad of it. The
mate inquired what the row was about, and I
pointed to the scouse dish, and told him about the
negro throwing the scouse into the filthy dish, and
what he said to me when I requested him to wash
it out. The mate turned to the darkey and asked
him if that was true. The darkey did not answer
him. The evidence was all in my favor. The
mate then said he would attend to him when he
got time, making him wash out our pan and give
me our scouse in a decent manner. Our food was
not quite so fine on the old Minerva as you can get
on the Humboldt or Corona of the present day. It
98 PIONEER DAYS IX CALIFORNIA.
was composed of bard bread and "salt horse," witli
coffee, sweetened with black straj) molasses. T
had a talk with the mate about my row with the
cook, and he promised me he would let the matter
drop where it was. The mate was a Virginian,
and would stand no foolishness from a darkey.
Daring the storm we got well out to sea, and it
took us some time to get back. From studying
geography when a boy at school, I learned that
Cape Mendocino was the westernmost point of land
in the United States. I was very anxious to see it
and be west of it. I requested the mate when it
came in sight to point it out to me, and I looked
on it with a great deal of x^ride, for, when I got
home, what wonders I would have to tell "the
boys.'' I had crossed the Rocky and Sierra Nevada
Mountains and had sailed west of Cape Mendocino
on the Pacific Ocean. My happiness would have
been complete if I could have stood on the cape —
at least I thought so. In after years I did stand
on the cape, and did not think much about if.
Such is the romance of youth.
Well, after tossing about on the old bark Mi-
nerva for twelve or fourteen days, we at last dropped
anchor under the lea of Trinidad Head, or at Trini-
dad Bay, as it was then called. For a day or two
before getting into port it was fine weather, and
the boys were getting so as to come on deck one
after another. At Trinidad there were two other
vessels at anchor. Trinidad was then composed of
OFF FOR TRINIDAD AND GOLD BLUFF. 99
one large blue tent witli walls to it. The owner
had a stock of goods which he was selling at pretty
round figures. Our goods and stores were landed
on the beach by the vessel's boats. The uiules
were brought in front of the gangway, and shoved
overboard, to swim ashore. It was amusing to see
them, after taking their dive and getting to the
surface, look around and break for land, which
they lost no time in doing. We pitched our tents,
expecting to remain for a few days, to give our
seasick men and mules a chance to get on their
land-legs again, and to recuperate. The mules had
a hard time of it while on the vessel, with very
little feed or water. Then we had our pack saddles
to rig out and our packs to make up. It took four
or five days to get started. Gold Bluflfs was but a
short distance, but the reports from there were
rather discouraging, so we concluded to try our luck
on the Salmon River or the Klamath. Reports
from the Salmon River mines were good, but pro-
visions were very scarce and high, and packing was
high. You could not get a pound packed for less
than one dollar and twenty-five cents per j)ound.
Mules were scarce — in fact, there were very few in
the country except those brought by the miners,
like ourselves, for their own use. We had four mules
for which we were offered three hundred dollars
each, but would not think of selling at any price.
After getting things in proper condition for a start,
we packed our mules with about two hundred and
R85577
100 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
fifty pounds each, and ourselves with all we could
well carry. Our first day out of Trinidad was
along the beach and sometimes on the blufi's. My
load consisted of fifty pounds of flour, a rocker
screen and my blankets. I had one consolation —
we were to eat out of my sack of flour, so it would
be lighter after every meal. Before leaving Trini-
dad we were cautioned about crossing the beach in
front of the big lagoon, as there were between four
and five miles of sand that was knee deep, and very
hard traveling for both man and beast. We came
to the conclusion that we would go the first day to
where we would commence crossing it, and there
camp until morning, and then take an early start
on the sand.
WANDERING BETWEEN TRINIDAD AND WEAVERVILLE. 101
CHAPTER X.
Wanderings Between Trinidad and Weaverville.
Crossing the Big Lagoon. — A mule's tumble down the mountain. — A
herd of elk. — Ferrying the Klamath. — Disgusted with SalmonRiver.
— Departure for Trinity River and Weaverville. — Snowed under. —
Finding a trading post and supplies. — Prospecting on Oregon Gulch.
Next morning we started on the beach, or across
the lagoon, and a hard time we had of it. To make
matters worse, one of the mules we bought in San
Francisco gave out ; it was weak across the loins,
and the heavy load and deep sand were too much
for it, so we had to divide its load between the
other mules and ourselves. We got across towards
evening, as tired and worn out a set of men and
mules as you could find in the State. Camping
for the night, I was congratulating myself on what
a good night's sleep and soft bed we would have in
the loose sand. When I first lay down it was ex-
cellent, and all went well, until a fellow turned
over, and then it was like lying on a bed of boulders.
I could not endure my sand bed, and had to
take a pick and shovel and excavate a place large
enough in the side of the mountain to lay on. Next
morning we packed up and started up the moun-
102 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
tain, putting the kitchen and blankets on tbe dis-
abled mule, as they were light, and we thought he
might worry through with them.
We got on very well for a day or two, but in
traveling through the redwoods we came to a place
on the trail that was very sidling — steep banks
above and below the trail. Xow, if there is any
place a mule will stop to i)ick grass and act badly
it is one like this, where the others cannot go by
him. One of them stopped in the worst place he
could find, and one of the boys picked up a rock
and heaved it at him ; but instead of hitting the one
that was obstructing the trail, he hit one of the
others. The one that was hit started up, and, run-
ning between the bank and the broken-backed
mule, sent the latter over the side of the mountain,
kitchen, bedding and all. He did some lofty rolling
and tumbling down that mountain. Sometimes
his legs would be up, and sometimes the part of the
pack that was on him would have the upper side.
Such a scattering of plunder I never saw before.
We all sat down on the bank, and there were some
"tall curse words" used. Dave Young commenced
cursing the old mule, the old Grreaser that sold him
to us, California, and everything else he could
think of. The thing looked so ridiculous to me
that I commenced laughing, and that made Dave
still madder. He commenced on me, giving me
what wrath he had left in him, saying to me :
"You d — n fool, you would make fun of the thing
WANDERINGS BETWEEN TRINIDAD AND WEAVERVILLE. 103
if evervtliing went to hell. Doe and I started
down the mountain, to look after the wreck, and
l^ick up what we could find of the debris. We
found a coffee pot in one place, blankets in another,
fry-pan in anotlier, and so on until we ^ot to a
little flat, where we found tlu^ old mule up and eat-
ing grass as if nothing had happened, and with the
pack-saddle under his belly with part of the things
still tied to it. Well, it was a surprise to Doc and
me to find the old mule alive after his grand and
lofty tumbling down the side of the mountain. We
gathered the ''plunder'' up, and packed the old
fellow for a new start. Upon surveying the
damages, we found the fry-j)an had its handle
knocked out of shape?, the coffee pot was minus a
spout and handle, and our tinware was somewhat
deuiolished ; but, taking the damage in full, it was
but little. The question was, how to get the mule
up to the trail ; the mountain was too steep for that,
and the old fellow was weak in the hind parts. We
tied a rojDe to his tail and one about his neck, to
lead him by. When his hind j)arts took a sheer
we would steady him by the rope on his tail, and,
by taking tacks on the hill side, after a good deal
of work, we got him on the trail again all right.
After that one of us had to lead him. The trail ran
through a good deal of redwood forests. I ii:ot mv
first view of the immense size of the redwood trees
on that trip.
One day, on coming out on a prairie, we beheld a
104 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
great sight. The prairie seemed a large one ; scat-
tered all over it were big oak trees, giving it the
appearance of an old orchard in the Eastern States,
and, grazing quietly, were hundreds of elk, that
seemed to take no more notice oi us than so many
tame cattle grazing in their pasture at home. We
did not disturb them. We finallymade the Klam-
ath River at the mouth of the Trinity. I believe
the place is now called Weitchj)eck. Here we had
to ferry. The Klamath Indians were the ferry-
men, and, with their canoes, the}^ put us across
with our goods; the mules swam across the stream.
The Indians would not take gold for their pay,
silver was their currency. One dollar in silver
was worth more to them than ten dollars in gold ;
in fact, gold was of no account with them. As
luck would have it, we did not have to use either ;
we traded off the old mule to them for ferrying us
across, and got some money to boot. We got across
the Klamath all right, and started for Red Cap Bar,
intending to prospect it for a day or two ; but, when
we got there, two miners were just packing up to
go to Orleans Bar, who had been at work for a
week and made nothing, so we did not stop there,
but went to Orleans Bar, intending to go to the
South Eork of the Salmon. In due time we arrived
at Orleans Bar, but the river was high, and we
could not prospect the lower bars, where it was
said was the best pay. We again crossed the
Klamath River in canoes and swam our animals;
WANDERINGS BETWEEN TRINIDAD AND WEAVERVILLE. 105
this time white men kept the canoes or ferry boats,
and would take gold money for our ferriai^e. We
had then a high mountain to cross between the
Klamath and the South Fork of Salmon. If I re-
member rightly, it was twenty miles over the
mountain. The day was very warm, and with the
load we had to pack, it seemed to me we would
never reach the summit. Finally, just at dark, we
reached the Salmon Kiver bottom and pitched our
tent. We thought we were then in the land of
promise. We were "well fixed,'' with plenty of
*'grub" and tools with which to commence opera-
tions. Flour was then worth one dollar and fifty
cents per pound, and everything else was in pro-
portion. Next morning we commenced prospect-
ing. The South Salmon we found rather a poor
stream, and we could find nothing to encourage us.
The creek had a good deal of water in it, and very
little pay on the high bars. Men who had wintered
there told us there was good pay when the stream
got low. We prospected for four or five days, and
got perfectly disgusted with the Salmon River
mines, and wished ourselves back in the middle
mines again. Up to this time the season, or
weather, had been all that could be wished for —
very little storm, and beautiful, sunny days. One
night we held a council in our tent, to take in the
situation and consider what was best to be done.
We had heard of the Weaver Flats and the good re-
ports from the Trinity River diggings. We dis-
106 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
cussed the question wlietlier wc would go to the
North Fork of Salmon, or to the Weaver diggings.
Einally, we came to tlie conclusion to take the
back track and go to the Trinity River and Weaver-
ville. Xext day we sold all the surplus provisions
we liad, getting one dollar and fifty cents a pound
for our tlour, and other things in projiortion, and
struck out for the Trinity River.
It was well we did. About one day from Salmon
it commenced raining, and it rained and snowed
until we got to the top of the dividing ridge be-
tween the Trinity and Salmon. On the Trinity
side of the mountain the trail followed a spur for
several miles, the divide between the East Fork
of the North Fork and the North Fork. It cleared
up as we were coming down the spur of the mount-
ain, and, coming to a little flat where there was
good grass and a good place to camp, about one
hour before sunset, we camped. When dark came
on we tied, up our mules and turned into our tent,
very tired. We ate the last we had for supper,
with the exception of a few scraps which we had
left in the bottom of the "grub box," expecting to
get down to the North Fork early next morning,
where there was a trading-post. We slept soundly
that night. When we turned in it was a beauti-
ful starlight night, and to all api^earances the
storm was completely over. We were feeling good
at having the most of our journey over, but, when
we awoke next morning, things did not lookquile
WANDERINGS BETWEEN TRINIDAD AND WEAVERVILLE. 107
SO pleasant for us. The tent was completely buried
in snow, and was weighed down to witliin a few
inches of our heads bv the load of snow on it. I
said to the boys : " We are in a d — 1 of a fix now,"
and thev were soon out of their blankets. The
snow was fully four feet deep, and still coming
down witli a vengeance. Every flake was as big as
a silver dollar. The mules were nearly covered up
with snow, standing with their backs humped up,
and shivering as if thev had the affue. We built a
fire, got sonjc coffee, and, eating what little we had
left, packed our shivering mules and made a start.
It was hard work to get them to move at all. For
some time one of us had to go ahead and throw
himself on his back on the trail in order for the
mules to get through. As luck would have it the
trail was blazed, and we were able to keep it. Eor
three or four hours we labored in this manner, but
as we got down the mountain the snow became
lighter, and at nearly night we got out of it al-
together. It was nearly dark when we reached the
junction of the East Fork with the North Fork, and
our mules were about given out and ourselves not
much better. I told the boys that if they would
camp there I would go and hunt the trading-post.
From the directions we had it could not be far off.
I started down the North Fork, and just as it was
getting dark ahead of me I saw a light across the
stream. Following the trail, I came to a log on
which I crossed, and soon came to the light. It
108 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
was in a large tent stretched on four logs. As I
entered the tent or store there were four men in it
playing cards, with a few goods in one corner and
a keg of whisky set on a log beside the goods.
They sang out to me : " Stranger, where are you
from'?" I said, "Salmon River.'' One remarked,
"I thought so." I said, "Have you any whisky ?"
pointing to the keg. He told me to lielp myself.
There was a pint cup standing under the faucet,
and I filled it half full of whisky and drank it. In
less than two minutes I felt like a new man. At
other times that amount of liquor would have
made me drunk. Our temperance friends may
preach what they j)lease, but there are times
when a drink of liquor helps to give a worn-out
man life and vitality. I know it was so in my
case. I purchased a few pounds of flour and bacon
and other things for supper and breakfast and
started back for camp, making me a California
lantern before starting. I had a good light where-
by I might follow the trail.
I will tell you what a California lantern is and
how it is made. I took a bottle and put a little
water in it, placed the bottom on the fire and kept
turning it around slowly ; when the water heated
the bottom burst out ; I then lighted a candle and
dropped it down in the neck of the bottle, and then
had a very good lantern.
I reached camp all right. The boys had started
a fire and pitched the tent. The first question
WA>JDERINGS BETWEEN TRINIDAD AND WEAVERVILLE. 109
Dave Young asked me was: "Did you bring any
whisky ^ '' I told him, " Yes." " Where is it V' I
tokl him, "In my stomach." There were a few
curse words used about that time. After tantaliz-
ing him for a short time I drew out a bottle of
whisky and shook it at him. They went for it
with a will. Supper was soon cooked and eaten, and
we were all happy. Our tent was pitched on a sid-
ling place, and it came on to rain in the night. Tlie
boys had not thought of digging a ditch around the
tent when they put it up, and the water coming
down from the mountain ran through the tent.
When we turned over in the blankets we could
hear the water slosh under us, but we slept the
sleep of the righteous, and the water did not bother
us much.
Xext morning we packed our " traps '' and went
down to the North Eork. The day was clear and
the sun was out in his full glory. We soon had
everything dry and as good as new. We had a
narrow escape ; had we been one day later in start-
ing from Salmon the State would have lost four
good citizens. The Pence brothers, as I afterwards
found out, were camped about three miles above us
on the mountain, with a train of forty mules when
the snow came on. Every one of them perislifed,
chilled to death, and one of the brothers caught
such a cold that in less than a month he died also.
Provisions on Salmon gave out, flour could not be
purchased at any price, and men told me that they
^
110 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
lived on venison for at least one month. The salt
gave out also, and one ounce of gold for a ponnd of
salt was offered. Such were the straits miners were
reduced to in the spring of '51 on the Salmon
River. Thanks to our good fortune we were now in a
country where there were plenty of provisions. The
storm had set the streams up very high, and no
mining could be done on the rivers. After resting
for a few days we started for Weaver, distance
about twenty miles up the valley of the Trinity.
We camped on Oregon Gulch, where we did some
prospecting. There had been a little work done on
the gulch the previous summer. We found very
good prospects — the best we had yet found since
leaving the middle mines, and we concluded to go
to Weaver and lay in some provisions and return
to Oregon Gulch, if nothing better turned up.
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE- 111
CHAPTER XI.
First Experience at Weaverville.
Separated from companions.— Generosity of the early miners. — Arrival
at Weaverville. — Starting a blacksmith's shop. — A public whipping. —
A quarrel between two miners. — Trial before a judicial officer. — The
plea. — Thomas McGinnis Brown and the ox team.
We packed up for Weaver. We had a small
mountain to cross before getting there, and I started
on ahead, got over the mountain, struck West
Weaver Creek and followed it down, instead of
crossing it and going over another spur, which
would have brought me to the town. I sat down
and waited for the boys to come, but they did not
arrive. It was getting nearly dark and had com-
menced raining and snowing. Here I was in a
X^retty fix, and the prosx^ect that I should have to
make a night of it without food or shelter was
hardly pleasant. I crossed the creeks at the forks,
and turned up stream. After traveling up stream
for about half a mile, it commenced to get pretty
dark. I was on the lookout for a i)lace where I
could make a fire and camp for the night, when I
preceived a light ahead of me. I started for the
spot with a much lighter heart than I had five
112 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
minutes before, and soon reached it to find that it
was a large round tent. I went in, and found the
tent was a large saloon and gambling-house. There
were a couple of monte tables running, a bar in one
side, and a large tin stove in the center, to keep it
warm. I thought this would be an improvement
on lying out of doors. I sat down by the stove,
hungry as a wolf. I did not have a cent in my
pocket. Dave carried the purse, our mone}^ being
in gold dust. I wanted a drink, but was ashamed
to ask for it without money to pay. A man came
and sat down beside me. He said : " You are a
stranger in camp '^ " I told him I was. He asked
where I was from, and I told him from Salmon
River. " You are broke," he said. I said I did not
have a cent. " I thought so from your looks," he
replied. " Let us take a drink." That suited me
just at that time, and we had a drink apiece. He
paid a dollar for the two drinks — fifty cents each.
I then told him my situation, my getting astray
from my partners, and that I expected to find them
in the morning. He took me to his cabin, gave me
a good supper, and shared his bed with me that
night. Let me here remark that the early miners of
California were seldom known to turn their backs
on a fellow-man in distress ; they would divide the
last dollar, and give you the last slapjack they liad
in their tent or cabin, if tliey thought you stood in
need of it. Many a poor fellow who got sick or
disabled in the mines have they sent home by their
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE. 113
liberality. A if vent iiuinv of tliem were Avild and
reckless young fellows, but selfisliness, as a general
rule, found no abiding place with tliem.
Xext morning the storm had abated, and I got
my first yiew by daA lialit of the town of Weayer-
yille, where I spent the best part of my life. Tlie
toAyn Ayas composed of the aforesaid round tent and
four log cabins. One of the cabins was used as a
store and a sort of a hotel, kej)t by Stanmore &;
Horton, and another was a store kept by Mathew
Stuart and son Bob. The other two Avere miners'
cabins. This Ayas tlie Weayeryille of February, '51,
as 1 first saAy it. I found my j)artners all right. We
all liked the looks of the place, and made up our
minds that Ave had wandered ovev California suffi-
ciently for the present. DaA e Young made up his
mind to go back to Illinois. He had accomplished
AA'hat he came for, haying regained his health.
When Aye left Peoria, one year before, he had to be
assisted on board the steamer ; now, after one year
of crossing the plains and roughing it in California,
he Ayas returning a Avell man. It seemed to me
like parting Ayith the only friend I had in the Ayorld
Avhen Daye left. He had been to me a good
counselor, and more like an elder brother than
any man I ever knew.
After looking around Weayeryille and infoi-ming
niA'self as Ay ell as I could of its resources and mines,
I came to the conclusion I Ayould start a black-
smith shop. The nearest one to WeaA eryille at that
114 PIO>fEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
time was Shasta, some forty miles distant. The
(litiicnlty Avas to get tools ; they could not be had
nearer than Sacramento City, about two hundred
miles distant. One of my camp partners, by the
name of J. B. Damon, agreed to go in partnership
witli me, take the mules and go after the tools and
take Dave Young down with him to Sacramento.
We bade good-bye to Dave with many regrets.
Three or four days before we arrived at Weaver-
ville there was a public whipping. About the only
punishments for crime in those days were whipping
or hanging. In this case the former was the pen-
alty. A fellow by the name of Bates stole a mule
from Dick Dangey, the butclier. He tried to get
away with it, but was caught and brought back. A
jury of miners was summoned; the evidence was
very plain against the accused, and the jury found
liim ffuiltv, and sentenced him to receive forty
lashes, and to leave camp forever. Old man Ander-
son was aj)pointed to apply the lash, or rope. Tlie
old man had been warden of the Missouri State
Prison at Jetferson City, and well understood his
business. Bates was stripped and tied to a big
pine log, when the old man got about eight feet of
rope, three-fourths of an inch in diameter, and,
after giving him some very fatlierly advice, pro-
ceeded to execute the sentence of the court. When
he got through Bates had a very sore back, but the
hiAV was vindicated and the honest miners satistied.
Bates left. In a couple of years afterwards we
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE- 115
licard of his beinc' hunted in Sliasta connty. He
was a bad one. AVord came to town a few days
after that two miners on West Weaver had got
into a quarrel, and tliat one of them had struck the
other in the head with a pick. He was arrested
and brought to toAvn, likewise the wounded man.
This time the case was to be tried before the
alcalde, or magistrate, whom tlie boys had elected
to try all minor cases. This case proved to be not
so bad as was first reported. The gentleman whom
the boys had elected alcalde was an old man by
the name of Sevier from Tennessee. He was very
fond of whisky and poker. He weighed about
three hundred pounds, and he and work did not
agree ; consequently they never came in contact.
Tlie trial was set for 9 o'clock in the morning. The
Constable had his prisoner on hand in due time,
but the court was not yet out of his morning slum-
bers. He had been engaged nearly all night in a
poker game, and got pretty full before retiring, and
Avas somewhat drowsy in the morning. The con-
stable rapped on the old man's cabin door for some
time before he could wake him, but at last he got
the court up. He came to the door and wanted to
know, " What the h — 1 is the matter % " The con-
stable told him it was the time set for trial. " Trial
be — ," replied the court, "I try no one until I get
my breakfast ! " The Judge's room-mal e, by the
name of Johnson, was another chij) off the same
block as the court. The court and Johnson pitched
116 ^PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
in to getting breakfast, wliile the constable^
the prisoner, the jnvv and okt Cunningham,
the hiwyer, remained ontside. In due time
the court got his breakfast and came out
of his cabin witli his sliirt sleeves rolled up, his
hands covered with flour and dough, no hat on, liis
hair standing on end and full of flour. He had to
scratch his head Avliile mixing his morning biscuits,
or "pone," as he called it, and got liis head pretty
well covered Avitli flour. He remarked, as he came
out of his den, " Bring on your prisoner, and 1 will
give him h - 1 ! '' The jury was impaneled. Tliey
sat on a log, and old Cunningham opened tlie case.
The plaintifi^ was a Dutchman, and the defendant
was a son of the Emerald Isle. Cunningham was
for the defendant. He told his client not to open
his mouth, and while the trial lasted he obeved
the order to the letter. Cunningham's i)lea before
the jury was that the defendant Avas a native Ameri-
can, and had been badly abused by a Dutchman,
and tliat an American had a perfect right to hit a
Dutchman over the head with a pick or anything
else when abused bv him. The iurv found the de-
fendant not guilty, and he Avas acquitted. As soon
as the defendant found he was discharged, he said
to Cunningham: " Jazes, you done that nicely, me
boy ; and sure you made a great natiAc American
out of me entirely. Me, that Avas born and bred in
the county of Tipperary; sure and me OAvn mother
Avould not liaA'e knoAvn the difl"erence the way you
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE- 117
laid it down to them inrymen. May the Holy
Virgin bless tlieni ; for its honest lads they are ; let
ns all drink." The jndge, the jnry, the witnesses,
and all hands stej^ped to the bar. So ended my
first experience as a juror. Unless I am mistaken,
my old friend McConnaha of Areata was on that
jury.
About this time I got acquainted w itli the princi-
pal architect and builder of Weayeryille, who bore
the name of Brown — Tliomas McGinnis Brown.
He was a big, good-natured Missourian, and still
holds liis OAyn in tliat line. ''Mac" had a contract
to build a liouse for a man and wife by the name of
AValton. The liouse was to be eighteen feet square,
and without any floor in it ; but it was to be
coyered and a hole cut in one end for a chimney. It
was to be chinked and daubed. Mac had tohaye a
team to haul the logs together. An old fellow by
the name of Jim Howe owned the only team in
the county, and Mac went to get them. Jim's
j)rice per day for the team and cart was three
ounces, or forty-eight dollars. Mac thought that
was pretty steep, but finally concluded to j)ay it,
proyided the OAvner Ayould let him do the driying.
]VIac hitched up the cattle, and Jim brought out his
goad stick and handed it to Mac, who looked at it
a while and said : " What do you want me to
do with that dog-on pegging awl of yours'?"
Jim said it was to driye with. Mac replied,
" Those are Missouri cattle, and don't know
^1^ PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
anything about 3 our liusli, and your haws, or your
pegging awLs. I Avill talk Missouri to them, the
language they understand, and they will be all
right. Mac brought out what was then known as
a Pike county revolver ; that is, a wliip-lash about
fourteen feet long, and a stick about ten feet long,
and commenced talking Missouri to the oxen. The
boys went to see the fun. Mac hitched them to one
of the biggest logs. Drawing his revolver, and let-
ting them hear the music of it, he sung out in very
forcible language, "Get, you dog-on Buck and
Berry," and they got Mac " hustled in " all the
logs and timber he wanted for his building before
night, much to Jim's chagrin, as he expected two
days' work for his team.
Some miners were building a cabin in Garden
Gulch, and wanted some shakes hauled to cover it
with. Jim wanted Mac to take the oxen and cart
and haul them. Mac came over to where I Avas
and said, " Dog-on it, Vulcan, what do they mean
by shakes^ " (Yulcan was the name I was knoAvn
by for the first year in Weaverville). I said, "Mac,
they mean claxiboards." Mac said, "Dog-on it,
why don't those Yankees call things by their right
names'?" Mac got liis clapboards hauled. After
that, when Jim Howe Avanted any hauling done for
himself, he got Mac to do the driving Avith his Pike
county revolver, but Avhen he hauled for somebody
else he got his yank and goad stick.
Mac got his house built all right, but I have
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE. 119
never been able to tell of what style of arcliitectnre
it was, A\iietlier Grecian, Doric, Ionic or Composite.
For furtlier information about tliis question I
would refer my readers to Mac at the Humb(ddt
County Hotel, which is now kept by him.
In the nunith of March of 1851 one of those
cases occurred which bring disgrace to our civili-
zation and dishonor to our manhood. In the early
days of California nearly every miner owned a
mule or some otlier sort of animal to pack his tools,
blankets and provisions on when moving from one
gulch or diggings to another. Those animals caused
the miners a great deal of trouble to hunt them up
when wanted for use, and generally when new dig-
gings were found and sufficient animals were in the
neighborhood, some enterprising individual would
start a herd ; that is, he would gather up all the
animals in the neighborhood and herd them during
the day. Feed was abundant. At night he would
have a corral that was considered Indian-proof to
keep the herd in. The charge was four dollars per
month for each animal. The Indians on the
Trinity and its tributaries were very fond of "mule-
beef," and* never failed to obtain a supply of it,
when they had au opportunity to do so, from the
honest miner, and the miner never failed to fill
Mr. Indian's skin with lead when he was caught
helping himself to any of the miners' property,
esj)ecially to the mules.
Uncle Joe Strudivant and his partner, John W.
120 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Carter, and Jerry Wliitiiiore, were then running a
pack-train between Shasta and Trinity Kiver.
They had a hirge pack-train to look after. They
built a corral and herded the stock on a flat, where
Strudivant's ranch is now^ located. One night the
animals were all properly corralled, but the next
morning they had all disappeared — forty or forty-
live head, all told. Foiw men immediately started
on their track, and followed tliem for several days.
At last they overtook them at the liead of the
Sacramento Yalley — three white men and tlie stolen
mules in their possession. Before the tliieves were
aware, the pursuers opened tire on them and killed
all three of them. The pursuing party was led by
a fellow called " Texas," a man that held human
life very lightly. After killing the thieves tliey
scalped tliem, and brought the scalps and the
animals back with them. "-Texas" showed me one
of the scalps be had in his belt when in Weaver-
ville on his Avay back to the ranch on Trinity.
Tliey not only took tlie tliieves' scalps, but skinned
their whiskers oft' and brought them back, and
nailed both scalps and wliiskers on tlie gateposts of
the corral as a warning to others. That herd w as
not troubled by white thieves any more that season.
In those days horse-stealing was the crime of
crimes. If two men got into trouble and one killed
the other in a fight, there was very little said about
it ; but if a man was caught stealing a horse or a
mule, his days were short, or else he got wliii)i)ed
FIRST EXPERIENCE AT WEAVERVILLE. 121
and banislied from the diggings, sometimes branded.
Native sons and dangliters, sncli was tlie way in
wliicli your pioneer fathers administered justice to
thieves in the early days of California.
The Indians in the counties of Trinity and
Sluista, in '50, '51 and '52, were very troublesome,
makmg raids on the miners' tents and cabins, and
stealing their mules, provisions and bhmkets. The
miners would go to their claims from their tents or
camps with their rifles loaded and their revolvers
in their belts, ready for an attack at any time by
the Indians.
A short time since, in conversation with William
Carson of Eureka, he told me that he, with Dan
Morrison, Jerry Whitmore and Oliver Gilmore, in
1850, were mining on a bar on the Trinity River,
about one mile above where the Arkansaw dam
was built in 1851. They left their tent all right in
the morning when they went to their claims to
work. At noon they returned to their tent for
dinner and found that everything in their tent had
been stolen by the Indians ; provisions, clothing,
blankets, and everything that they could carry
away. Their tent was in sight of where they were
working, and they were on the lookout for the
Indians all the time they Avere at work. The
Indians got in at the rear of the tent and carried
away the articles mentioned without being dis-
covered.
Messrs. Carson, Whitmore, Gilmore and Mor-
122 PIOJiEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
rison started in pursuit of the Indians, resolved to
get their pro]>erty back, and to teach them a lesson
for the future. They got on to the trail of the
Indians, and followed them to the East Eork of
Canyon Creek, a distance of some twenty-five
miles, where they found a large rancher ia of
Indians on one of the flats of that stream.
When they came in sight of the Indians their plan
of attack was to crawl up within a short distance
of the rancJicria, where they could make every shot
tell, and then open fire. But they were dis-
appointed in their calculations. The Indian dogs
gave the alarm, and the first thing the Indian
warriors knew there was a shower of arrows around
them which made that a rather unhealthy place at
which to tarry. They made good their retreat, but
Jerry AVhitmore got an arrow or two in the back
part of his pants. The boys did not get back their
blankets and " grub." In this way small bands of
Indians would harrass and plunder the miners and
settlers, never committing depredations near their
home, but always going fifteen or twenty miles
from their homes to do their mischief, or hiding on
the trails traveled by the whites, and then from
their liiding-place filling the white passer-by full
of arrows.
HIGH PRICES, LYNCHING, AND OTHER INCIDENTS. 123
CHAPTER XII.
High Prices, Lynching, and Other Incidents.
Ten dollars a day for cutting wood. — The blacksmith's shop. — A list
of prices. — Arrival of women. — Lynchmg. — Extorting confessions.
— Trinity comity organized. — A batch of candidates for office. —
Rivalry for the county seat. — Humboldt county organized. — C. S.
Ricks and the belligerent Capt. Tracy.
I now commenced to prepare for business. Get-
ting some wood hauled, I put up a coal-j^it. I got
tlie Avood chopped by paying a fellow ten dollars
per day for his w ork. Doc and I in the meantime
found a claim on the Ten-Cent Gulch, which j)aid
us sixteen dollars ])er day Avith a rocker. When
the wood was chopped I j^ftid Jim Howe three
ounces for a day's Avork hauling it together Avith
his Missouri cattle, and then put my coal-pit up,
using pine leaves instead of straAA^ for the inside
covering, and in time I got it burned. On close
calculation I found it cost me tAvo dollars per
bushel. I not being an expert at coal burning, part
of the coal burned up in the pit. My partner,
Damon, got back after a three Aveeks' journey to
Sacramento City for tools, bringing a belloAvs, auAdl
and A ice, some steel, borax and iron for picks. I
124 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
commenced by erecting a log forge, and, thinking
I should need no covering, my shop was as large as
■" all out-of-dctors ;" but I soon found an out-door
shop would not do, as the sun shone so bright on
the fire tliat I could not tell when I had a heat on,
and I burnt up some of my steel in consequence. I
had to build a shoj^ or quit the business, so I con-
cluded to build. We got pine poles and set them
in the ground, Avitli liglitcr ones for rafters ; shakes
were Avorth six dollars per hundred. The busi-
ness was yet but a venture, and Ave did not know
whether it would pay or not, so we came to the
conclusion of not putting much into it. Dick
Dungey kept a butcher-shop in town, and the
thouiiiit struck me tliat I would cover mv house
with rawhides. I saw Dunge}, and he gave me
all the hides I wanted, and was glad to get rid
of them. So I shingled ihy shop with rawhides,
and used them for sidin" also. Thev did verv well
until they began to dry and slirink ; then there
were several large cracks in the roof and sides. I
made one mistake in putting them on the roof,
that was in putting the hairy side out. The butchers
were not very particular about skinning in those
days, and generally left some of the meat on the hide,
which after a while got " alive," and occasionally
one of the big worms would let go, and sometimes
take me on the head or on the back of the neck.
When I had a heat on, lliough the worm did not
feel pleasant, I had to stand it ratlier than lose my
HIGH PRICES, LYNCHING, AND OTHER INCIDENTS. 125
lieat. Miners cjiine in very fast, and business be-
came good. Our investment turned out a profit-
able -'one. As many of our readers, wbo came in
later years, know but little of the prices in those
days, for their information I will give you a list of
some of them. In my line : Eor shoeing a horse,
twelve dollars ; sharpening picks, one dollar ; steel-
ing picks, four dollars ; punching rocker irons, two
dollars ; tom-iron, from three to five dollars ; heavy
iron, when forged, one dollar and fifty cents i^er
pound ; new picks, seven to eight dollars each ;
long handle shovels, sixteen dollars each ; tom or
rocker iron, one dollar per pound, and other things
in x>i"oportion. Packing was very high, 1 having
to pay twenty-five cents per pound from Shasta to
Weaverville, a distance of forty miles ; board six-
teen dollars per week; (nearly every one "bached"
it); single meals, one dollar each.
In the summer of '51 women began to make their
appearance in camp. Joseph Ewing and Avife
were the first arrivals in the place, with tlie excep-
tion of Mr. and Mrs. A¥alton, who only staid a short
time. To Mrs. Ewing, now of Eureka, belongs the
honor of l)eing the first pioneer lady of Trinity
county. She and her husband started the United
States Hotel. The next family was Kichard John-
son and wife, now of Bear River, in this county ;
they started a boarding-house on what was after-
wards called Sidney Mill, about half a mile from
town. John Lenwood and wife came about the
126 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
same time as Ricliard Jolmson's family, but they
got dissatisfied with the countvy and went back to
Aiistralia, when gokl was discovered in that cokmy.
We occassionally had a lynching affair, jnst to
keep the boys' hands in. They strung up a fellow
by the name of Coulter, who was accused of steal-
ing some gold dust ; but there was no j)roof against
him. They put a rope around his neck and hauled
him up to the limb of a tree, to make him confess,
and then let him doAvn, asking him to confess to
the robbery and make his x^eace with his Maker ;
but they could get no confession out of him. The
boys had a queer way of doing things in those days
on Sidney Gulch. If a man was accused of any
crime, tliey summoned a miners' meeting and gave
him a trial. In some cases, where there was not
sufiicient evidence to convict, they would hanj*^ him
up and then let him down for confession, as in
the case of Coulter. He was strung up three times,
and then warned to leave the diggings under penalty
of death. The next day Coulter came to town and
showed his neck. It was in a horrible condition,
the skin being raw where the rope had chafed and
cut it, and he Avas a sight to look at. The men or
residents of Weaver talked the matter over, and
came to the conclusion that such doings must be
stopped. Coulter was told not to leave until he
saw fit, and that he would be protected, but he left
in a few days from fear. In a short time after the
Coulter trouble, a man by the name of Charley
HIGH PRICES, LYNCHIRG, AND OTHER INCIDENTS. 127
Williams, now a prominent lawyer of Weaverville,
and wlio has since been county judge of Trinity,
lost some dust, said to liaye been stolen out of his
tent. He was mining at that time, and his purse
was left in his tent. Suspicion fell on a man by
the name of Allen, who was arrested and kept in
custody. A¥ord was sent down to Weayeryille that
Charley Williams was robbed, and they liad caught
the thief and were going to try him that eyening at
tlie mouth of Sidney Gulch. Some of the miners
who disax^proyed of the way Coulter had been dealt
with, came down to town and talked the matter
oyer with the boys in town, and finally about
twenty-fiye of us went to the trial. They had the
prisoner under guard. They then elected a fellow
by the name of A. K. Young as judge, and a jury of
twelye men was impaneled and sworn to try the
case. I was one of the twelye jurors. The eyidence
Ayas giyen in. Kone of the witnesses knew of his
stealing the money; only he had behayed in a yery
susj)icious manner, and his looks ought to conyict
him. Some of the jury commenced questioning the
witnesses, and it finally turned out tliat they had
not one particle of proof against him. The jury ac-
quitted him unanimously. This A. K. Young, who
acted as judge, said he was guilty anyway, and
would haye to leaye camp. The foreman of the
jury sj)oke in rej)ly to Young, stating that Allen
had a fair and impartial trial by a jury of his coun-
trymen and was honorably acquitted, and it was
128 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
not just to make liiiii leave. The balance of the
jury sided in with the foreman while the rest of the
miners present were of the same opinion. We took
Allen to town Avitli us for his better protection.
This fellow, A. K. Young, turned out to be a scoun-
drel of the first water, and deserved hanging more
than the man he was trying. Allen stayed about
town for a ie^v weeks and left. Ten years later I
called on him at his ranch in the Sacramento
Valley. He was then a well-to-do farmer, and a
man who was well rCvSpected by his neighbors.
Up to tlie summer of '51 no person paid any at-
tention to politics or civil law. The miners made
their OAvn laws, both civil and criminal. The Legis-
lature of '50 and '51 passed an act creating Trinity
county. Shasta county was then the most north-
erly county of the State, and very little attention
was paid to the State hiAvs there. Under the act
creating Trinity county, the whole of the territory
embracing Trinity, Humboldt, old Klamath and
Del Xorte, was embraced within the limits of
Trinity. Nobody seemed to care about or pay any
attention to the acts of the Legislature until about
June, I think it was, when a crowd of men were
seen coming, riding into Weaverville. They did
not look like miners, and looked too honest to be
gamblers. The query was, who Avere they 1 We
were not long in suspense, for they announced
themselves as candidates for the various offices of
the newly made county of Trinity. They were
HIGH PRICES, LYNCHING, AND OTHER INCIDENTS. 120
residents of Humboldt Bay. Blancliard for County
Judge, C S. Kicks for County Clerk, John A.
Whaley for County Assessor, Tom Bell for County
Treasurer, Dixon for Sheriff, John A. Lyle and
John H. Harper for Senators, McMillen for the
Legislature. The ticket was nearly completed. C.
S. Bicks' principal fight was for the county seat ;
he was anxious to get the vote for Eureka, and
Whaley for Areata, or Uniontown, as it was then
called. Poor Bucksport had its friends, but did
not cut much of a figure in the contest. Our em-
bryo politicians of AYeaYerville did not like the di-
Tision of the spoils. They tliought Humboldt was
taking the lion's share and not giving AVeaver a fair
show. We held a meeting, and nominated a full
ticket, or nearly so, and called it the " Weaver
ticket," with Weaverville for county seat, Johnson
Price for County Judge, John C. Burch for County
Clerk, Hutchinson for Sheriff, McGee for Assessor,
old man Cunningham for District Attorney, for
Senator, J. W. Denver, and for the Legislature
Weaverville endorsed McMillan and nominated P.
S. McKenzie. The county was entitled to two As-
semblymen. The fight Avent on until election day.
Everybody voted, and no questions were asked as
to citizenship, no registry law being in force. Tiie
result was that Weaverville was chosen county seat,
and the whole of her ticket elected. There was a
contest over the countv seat, the Weaverites accus-
ing the Humboldters of crooked work in bringing
130 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
in precincts that were never heard of since, which
gave Eureka the majority. The consequence was
that the County Judge, Johnson Price, recognized
Weaverville as the county seat, and the District
Judge held court at Eureka. But we in Weaver-
ville had the advantage of Eureka. Weaverville
had all the officers, and Humboldters had to
come to Weaverville when they had any business
with them. Tlie next Legislature divided the
county, and ended the matter of county seat, so far
as Weaverville was concerned.
Then commenced the contest for county seat of
Humboldt county, which lasted for several years.
Some amusing incidents occurred during the cam-
paign. One day the Humboldt delegation was
holding a public meeting in the " round tent," and
Ricks was si^eaking. There was in the crowd a
fellow by the name of Captain Tracy, who was
" some " on the fight. He was a Mississipj)ian, and
had been in the Mexican war. C. S. Kicks was
going on, extolling Eureka and Humboldt Bay in
general, Avlien Tracy "chij)i)ed in" and called
Kicks a jackass. Kicks coolly remarked that "jack-
asses when the}' kick, generally kicked pretty
hard." That raised the Captain's Southern blood,
and, drawing a large bowie-knife, he started for
Kicks, stating that he would cut the heart out of
him. Kicks was standing on a table while speak-
ing, and Tracy advanced to the table with blood in
his eye. Tracy's friends tried to stop him, but
HIGH PRICES, LYNCHING, AND OTHER INCIDENTS. loi
Ricks coolly remarked, " Let him come ; do not
stand in his way ; I am prepared for him." When
Tracy saw Ricks taking it so cool it did not require
so many men to hold him, and, after a little more
bluster, the Oaj)tain cooled oif. Ricks went on
with his speech, and was not interrupted again.
The boys called Whaley the "walking arsenal of
Humboldt." When he first made his appearance
he had on a belt, with a knife and a couple of
pistols in it, a pair of leggings, with a bowie-knife
in each legging, and was fully armed and
equii)ped.
Captain Tracy left WeaYeryille shortly after the
election, and the next time I saw him Avas on the
Isthmus of Panama, in the fall of '52. He had
joined the Elores expedition, filibustering in one of
the Central American States. The jiarty got
" cleaned out," and he and some more of his j)arty
were taken to Panama by a British man-of-war,
and there landed. Senator Grwin and Congress-
man McCorkle were on their way from Washing-
ton to California, and they procured them a pas-
sage on the old steamer " California " to San Pran-
cisco. That was the last I saw of him. He died
shortly after. He was a type of a good many men
that came to California after the disbanding of the
army at the close of the Mexican war. They could
be truly called " soldiers of fortune." Of such ma-
terial were the filibustering' expeditions composed
at that time.
132 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XIII.
Officers Elected.
A sensational lynching affair and the rescue. — The accused innocent.
To come back to Trinity county : Weayeryille
did pretty well by Humboldt's politicians. There
were elected from Humboldt : Dixon for Sheriff,
Tom Bell for County Treasurer, E. H. Howard,
Public Administrator, and McMillen for the Legis-
lature. We in Weayeryille thought Aye were
generous with the Humboldters, considering that
they started in to "hog it" all. Trinity had the
yotes, but Humboldt had the politicians, so we "got
away " with them. Our officers started in to get
the county goyernment organized. It was uj)-hill
work, without any grease to oil the ncAV macliinery
with, but Judge Price was a man of considerable
ability and of oyer ayerage honesty, and, in due
time, things began to assume their proj^er shape.
Men were getting tired of lynch law, yet there
Ayere seyeral cases tried before Judge Lynch after
organizing the county. The county had no public
buildings of any description, eyen no place in Ayhich
to keep criminals, Ayhere they would be secure until
^ OFFICERS ELECTED. 133
the day of trial. Judge Price did not serve out liis
time, but resigned and went to Sacramento to prac-
tice liis profession, that of physician. Governor
JohnBigler appointed him Secretary of State during
one of Bigler's terms as Governor. Johnson Price
was an honest and lionorable man, and, as County
Judge of Trinity county and Secretary of State, he
acted with honor to himself and profit to the State.
He died a few years after his term expired. Dixon,
the Sheriff, served his term out, and came down to
Humboldt, where he was shot, whether by accident
or suicide no person ever knew. He went out
hunting near Bucksport, and was found dead. His
remains now lie buried, I have been informed, on a
little knoll this side of Pine's dairy-house, near the
Bucksport road. Tom Bell, tlie Treasurer, served
out his time, and went to l^ew York Citj . McGee,
the Assessor, collected all the money he could, and
" raised Ked " generally, and had three or four
judgments found against him. He left the county
for the county's good, and was afterward killed in
a row at Virginia City. Jolm 0. Burch served out
his term, and was afterward elected to Congress.
Old man Cunningham went generally "to the
dogs," and died of too much alcohol. J. M. Peters
was elected Justice of the Peace ; he afterwards be-
came District Judge of the district, and quite a
noted character in his dav.
Shortlv after election we had a lynchino affair in
Weaverville. In was in this wise : There was a
134 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
suspicions character by the name of Seynionr abont
town who came from Australia, and went by the
name of "Sydney Duck." He had a coat which,
when worn on one side, woukl be red with blue
facings, and by turning it would be a blue coat
Avith red facings. The boys came to the conclusion
that an honest man would not Avear such a coat. A
miner by the name of George Hardgraves, an
Englislmian from Illinois, worked on Garden
Gulch, and Se\nnour being an Englishman they
were sometimes together. One evening Hard-
graves came to town and got on a drunk. He had
his dust in a yeast powder can — some eight or nine
hundred dollars. He usually carried it in his
breast, between his shirts. Sepnour, as usual, was
with him, and they "spreed" it until 11 or 12 o'clock.
Xext morning Hardgraves' dust " came up miss-
ing." He came to town from his cabin and re-
j)orted his loss. Susx^icion at once fell upon Sey-
mour as being the thief. He was arrested by Sheriff
Dixon. A miners' meeting was called, and Sheriff
Dixon requested to bring his prisoner before it,
which he refused to do. He had Seymour confined in
a little cabin in the upper part of the town. The
committee reported to the meeting that the Sheriff
would not give the prisoner up, whereupon a num-
ber of men were selected to go and bring him be-
fore the meeting at all hazards. Tlie second dele-
gation went to the Sheriff and demanded the
prisoner. There was no one but the Sheriff guard-
OFFICERS ELECTED. 135
ing liim, and the committee informed the Sheriff
that they had come to take the prisoner, Sepnour,
and Avere going to have him whether the Sheriff
liked it or not. The Sheriff replied, " Well, boys,
I cannot figiit you all, and I Avould sooner see yon
hang one dozen " Sidney Ducks " than have to hurt
one of you ; if you will have him, take him." The
committee brought him before the meeting, and the
regular course was taken, that of apj)ointing a judge
and jury to try the case. The case was conducted
in a very proper manner. Several witnesses were
sworn, Hardgraves being the j)rincipal one, who
testified to being Avith the prisoner the night before,
and losin^f his nnmev. Several others testified to
seeing them together the night the money Avas
stolen. With the testimony against him, and his
former suspicious character, besides his tAvo-sided
coat, things looked rather blue for poor Sepnour.
When asked Avhat he had to say in his defence, he
l)leaded innocence ; that he knew nothing of Hard-
graves' money ; that he had it betAveen his shirts
when he left him the night of the robbery. The
jury retired, and, after about half an hour's deliber-
ation, brought in a verdict of " guilty." This, to
all appearances, settled the fate of Seymour. He
was to be hanged that night at sundoAvn, on an oak
tree, just across the gulch beloAV the toAvn. When
the time for execution drcAV near there were some
doubts in the minds of some of the jury, if, after
all, Seymour might not be innocent of the crime for
136 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
wliicli lie was about to suffer. In talking the mat-
ter over, the leaders, or the principal men engaged
in the affair, came to the conclusion to try and
force a confession out of liiin of the theft. The
time appointed for the execution arrived. He was
led to the tree, and there told to make his j)eace
Avith his Maker, for in fifteen minutes he Avould be
in His presence. Seymour knelt down and offered
up his devotions in one of the most touching ap-
X3eals to God for pardon for his own sins and those
of us who stood round him ; praying God to forgive
us for the great crime we were about to commit
against him ; calling on his Maker to witness liis
innocence of the crime for which he was about to
suffer. I firmly believe that x^rayer touched the
hearts of many who stood around him that night.
When his time was uj) the rope was placed around
his neck, and he was asked if he had anything more
to say. He said he was innocent, and hoped God
would forgive them. He was then hauled from
the ground and hanged for some time, when he was
let down and asked again to confess to his stealing
the money. His answer was, "I am innocent."
This thev did three times, with tlie same answer
eacli time. After the third hanging a consultation
was held out of his hearing, and it was decided not
to hang him, but give him a chance to escape, and
the j)lace would then be clear of him. On return-
ing to the tree he was informed that the execution
would be postponed until the following day at 9
OFFICERS ELECTED. 137
oVlock. When he was let down each time he was
praying for more time to make his peace with his
Maker, and they informed him they wonld give
liim until that time to do so. He was then i)ljiced
in my charge, with priyate instructions to me to let
liim escaj)e that night. I liyed in a small cabin.
The crowd brought him to the cabin and put him
inside, giying me feigned orders if he attempted to
escape to shoot him down. The crowd then dis-
X^ersed. He ^yas no sooner alone than he again
commenced his in-ayers. I stood outside of the
door listening to him. In about an hour 1 opened
the cabin door — he was still on his knees ; I said to
him, " Seymour, I do not like to see you die like a
dog; you may be innocent." "I am innocent," he
replied, "as innocent as yourself of the crime that
I am about to die for." I said, "I haye a good
notion to let you escape. I haye many friends
among the miners, and I do not think they would
dare to injure me for doing so." He looked w^ to
me with such a look of sup^dication and pleading
in his countenance that even if it was not a preyi-
ously understood arrangement, I belieye 1 sliould
haye let him go and taken my chances with the
crowd. I said to him, "Sepnour, I will let you go.
If you haye been a bad man, reform ; you haye had
a narrow escape ; get out of the county as fast as
you can." I then asked him if he had any money
and he said, " Xo, not a cent." I gaye him ten
dollars, and oj)ened his prison door, telling him to
138 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
put as long a distance as possible between him and
Weaver before morning. He was not long in mak-
ing his prejyarations. Giving liim some bread and
cold meat, he left, showering blessings on me, his
preserver. That was the last I saw of j)oor Sey-
mour.
I have often read of men being condemned
to death, and, at the last moment, being reprieved,
or their sentence commuted. This Avas the first
case within my experience. The mind can hardly
contemplate the change that the few words spoken
will give to the feelings of the condemned criminal.
When I first hinted to Seymour that I Avould let
him go, hope sprang to his breast ; his whole being
seemed to change ; a new life seemed to spring up
in him, and in less time than it takes me to write
this, from a grovelling, heart-broken, dejected x^iece
of clay, he became a new man, endowed with new
life. We heard from him the next day. About 9
o'clock two miners on their way from Shasta to
Weaverville saw a man on the trail just ahead of
them. They saw him first ; when he saw them he
dodged into the bush. They did not like the looks
of things, so they drew their guns and went after
him, and found him hiding behind a bunch of
brush, apparently in great terror. They asked what
was the matter. He begged them not to kill him
or take him back to Weaverville, and told them
that he had just escaped with his life, and advised
them not to go Weaverville, as it was the wick-
OFFICERS ELECTED. 189
edest pLice in California. They told liini they were
miners, and if they attended to their own bnsiness
they thonght there would be no trouble. They
came on until they got pretty near town, when they
met old Sam Ourrav. Every pioneer will remember
old Sam Curray. He was always drunk and on the
fiffht. He made his home with McKenzie &
Winston, who were running a butcher-shop and
store at that time, and Sam did chores for the firm.
The old fellow Avas on his way to the slaughter-
house to help kill a beef. He was about half drunk,
as usual, and had with him a basket, in which Ayere
two reyolyers and three or four butcher-kniyes,
used in killing beef. Meeting those two miners
just below town, his first salutation was, " Who the
h — 1 are you T' They said they were miners, on
their way to Weayeryille. His next salutation
was : " Can you fight, you, can you fight f
Throwing down the basket with the pistols and
kniyes, he said : " Take your choice of weapons ;
fight you must. If you are not fighting men you
haye no business in Weayeryille, you." The
miners then thought that the fellow they met on
the mountain was about right, and gaye Weayer-
yille a wide berth. They met a miner at Oregon
Gulch mountain, and in conversation with him
learned the true situation of aifairs and who old
Sam Curray was. They finally came back to
Weayeryille, and did not find it half so desperate a
place as old Sam represented it to be.
140 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
To come back to the stolen money or dust : Dr.
Winston had business out back of his store one day,
a short time after Sejanour left, and he found the
yeast-powder can out among the chaparral, with
the gold dust in it all right, just where Hard-
graves had dropped it the night he was drunk. He
afterward remembered being out there while drunk,
but was too drunk to discover his loss Avlien he
dropi^ed the can. Hardgraves got his money back,
and poor Seymour was exonerated from the tlieft ;
but it was too late. Seymour was made to suffer
for a crime of Avhich he was innocent, and banished
from the place. Circumstances were against him,
yet he was inaocent. After that case men were
more cautious. Lynching was not resorted to
excej)t when the proof was plain and the crime
very great. It taught me the lesson to nei^er again
have an}i;hing to do with Judge Lynch or his court.
Had Seymour been hanged it would have haunted
me to the last day of my life; but, thank God, we
were all spared that crime.
CHANGING THE COURSE OF TRINITY RIVER. 141
CHAPTER XIV.
Changing the Course of Trinity River.
The "Arkansaw dam." — Meeting an old friend. — A first cousin ot the
Earl of Stanmore the keeper of a trading-post. — A fire. — Lost his
last pair of pantaloons. — A peculiar costume. — Dear lumber. —
Gardening. — A fighting parson.
In the smiinier of '50 a company was formed on
Trinity Riyer to turn the bed of the stream into an
okl channel by buikling a dam at the head of the
okl stream. Tliey expected to throw all the water
of the Trinity Riyer into its old course, and lay
bare, or nearly dry, the whole bed for three-
quarters of a mile, which was said to be yery rich
in the precious metal. The company' was com-
j)osed of men principally from Arkansas, and they
called the works the " Arkansaw dam." Uncle
Joe Strudiyant, John Carter, Jonathan Logan and
Jerry Whitmore, afterwards of tliis county, were
the principal stockholders in the enterj)rise. They
let the contract for building the dam to a crowd of
New Bruns wickers, the most of whom haye since
become leading men of Humboldt county. There
were Sandy Buchanan, William Carson, George
McEarlan, Oliyer Cilmore, Dan Morrison, and
142 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
others tluit I do not reniember, who helped to
build that dam. It was celebrated all over the
county as a big undertaking for the time. Xews
used to come up to Weaverville of the big pros-
pects they had. I have heard it re]3orted that they
got as high as one ounce of gold dust to a pan of
dirt scraped from the bottom of the river, and never
less than one dollar to the shovelful. Every tiling
seemed lovely ; the "Bluenoses" were getting on
with their dam in good shape, and in a week or
two Avould turn the water into the old bed. I
heard of an interest that was for sale at one
thousand dollars, and thought, "Xow is your time,
old boy, to make a 'home stake.'" Paying ten
dollars for a mule to ride, and taking one thousand
dollars in dust, I started for the " Arkansaw dam,"
expecting to buy myself rich. When I arrived at
the dam, about ten miles from Weaverville, every-
thing was going with a rush. The "Bluenoses"
were astonishing those Arkansas chaps by the
way they were tilling the logs into the dam. I
examined the works closely, and likewise the old
bed. The thought struck me that the old bed
was not large or deej) enough to carry all the
water then in Trinity Kiver, and I began to
weaken on my "home stake."
In looking around the banks of the river I saw
two fellows at work with a rocker. I went to
where they were Avorking, and in conversation I
found one of their names was Cummins. I told
CHANGING THE COURSE OF TRINITY RIVER. 143
liiin I liiid a school-mate of that name Avhen a boy.
He asked me where 1 I said in Kingston, Canada.
AYhat was the name of yonr teacher^ I tokl him,
and he said he was that school-mate. We were
very glad to see each other. The last I had seen of
him before meeting him on the Trinity River he
was captain of a steamer rnnning between Kingston
and Ottawa, and was qnite a dude in his dress and
appearance. I looked at him for a moment, and
said : " Surely, this is not Oapt. John G. Cummins
of tlie Prince Albert" (that was the name of the
steamer lie commanded.) He said he was the
fellow. I said : " Captain, you do not look much
like the captain of the Prince Albert now." He
said : " Nevertheless, 1 am the fellow."
I will here remark that in those early days you
Avere likely to come upon a captain, or a doctor, or
a lawyer, or a merchant, or a professor, or other
titled individual, delving witli his pick and shovel
and bucket. They all had to try their luck in the
mines, but, as a general thing, they soon tired of
it, and returned to more congenial employment,
and mining was left to the hard-fisted sons of toil.
Cummins and I repaired to the shade of a tree,
and for a time lived over our boyhood days again.
I told him that I came down expressly to buy into
the dam. I wanted to know his opinion of the
investment. He advised me to have notliing to do
with it, for the same reason that I myself thought
of. I made up my mind to take his advice, as it
144 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
coincided with my opinion. He would not think
of my going home that night, but I must stay with
liim. He was not doing much at mining, and I
advised him to come with me to Weave rville, as 1
thought he could do better there.
At the Arkansaw dam at that time there was a
trading-post ; that is, a large walled tent which was
kept for that j)urpose, where you could find such
goods as the miners required. It was kej)t by an
Englishman by the name of James Stanmore, who
claimed to be very high-toned — to be no less a per-
son than the first cousin of the Earl of Stanmore in
England. He was a jolly old fellow ; weighed over
two hundred and fifty pounds. He became a favor-
ite with the boys, and when the day's work Avas over,
his store was generally well patronized — three or
four tables running every night ; the boys playing
cards for whisky, cigars, sardines and crackers, etc.,
and having a good time generally. The 11 o'clock
oi'dinance was not in force at the Arkansaw dam at
that time. The night I was there, they were run-
ning in full blast. There was working at the dam a
comical old fellow called Smiley, upon whom the
boys were always playing some trick. They fre-
quently used to euchre him when he held both
bowers and the ace. It was fun for the boAS to
hear old Smiley SAvear in such cases. About 12
o'clock old Smiley got up and Avent out, and, on
coming in and picking up his hand, he remarked,
" Tom MotherAvell's tent is afire." Cummins
CHANGING THE COURSE OF TRINITY RIVER. 145
jiiuiped lip from the table and ran to the door, and
the rest of us did tlie same. The tent was in flames,
and Tom lying asleej) in it. It was but tlie Avork
of a minute to j)i^ll ^lie burning tent down from
over him. Tom got partly awake, and said : " What
the d — 1 are you fellows doing 1 '' Tom Avas jn-etty
well "set-up" before retiring, and he lighted the
candle and forgot to blow it out before he fell
asleep. The candle set the tent on fire, and came
very near cremating him. It burnt up what few
clothes and j)i'Ovisions they had. Cummins had
but one j^air of pants, and those were wet, so he
took them off, after his day's work, and hung them
to dry, putting on a pair of red-flannel drawers, to
sit in during the evening while his pants dried.
The evenings Avere generally warm, and a man was
comfortable with ygvy feAV clothes on. The fire
closed out the fun for the night. The next morn-
ing, Avhen Ave came to oa erhaul the ruins of the
fire, Cummins found his pants, but the legs were
burnt off up to tlie thighs, and Stanmore had no
pants or overalls in the store. He Avas in a pretty
fix, for he Avanted to go to AVeaA erille Avith me and
had no x^ants to wear, and none Avere to be had
nearer than WeaverA'ille, ten miles aAvay. Finally,
Ave persuaded him to put Avhat was left of his pants
OA er his drawers, and go so. He did so, Avitli the
understanding that I Avas to ride ahead, and, if we
met ail} body on the trail, I w as to Avhistle, and he
Avould liide in the brush until tliey Avould get by.
146 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
He Avas when at lionie very particuhir as to his
clothes, and always looked the very pink of neat-
ness. Wlien we got rigged up and ready for a
start, his costume consisted of an old Ayhite hat,
with part of tlie crown out, a gray shirt, corduroy
pants, minus the legs, a pair of red drawers and a
pair of mining boots, with the legs of the red draw-
ers stuffed in them. He was comical to look at.
We got started, and, as luck would have it, a\ e did
not meet anything on the road except one pack
train, until we got near Weaveryille. There were
some willow flats just before Ave got to toAvn, and
the agreement Avas that he should 2:0 into a bunch
of AvilloAV's and I Avould ride into toAAii and get him
a pair of pants and a hat, and bring them to him.
I rode into toA\n, got the pants and hat, and
brought them to liim, AAiiich made him quite pre-
sentable. He took up his quarters Avith me. The
first night he Avanted to spread liis blankets on the
floor, but I Avould not stand that ; I had a bunk
large enough for both of us, and insisted on his
using part of it. He demurred for a long time, but
finally turned in Avith me. In four or flAe days
after he came to me and said, " HaA^e a ou discoA -
ered any "graybacks" in your bed since I liaAC
been sleeping Avith you V I said, " HaA^e you had
an increase in yours since you came % " He looked
at me and said, " Well, if you had them before I
came it is all riglit ; I suppose a mixture Avill do
no harm ; but that is the reason I did not Avant to
CHANGING THE COURSE OF TRINITY RIVER. 147
sleep in your bed." •' Tliat is all riglit, my boy ;
after you turned in the same tliouglit struck me re-
garding yourself; if I had thought of mine I would
not have insisted on your sharing my bunk with
me, but, as we Avere both in the same fix, of course
no harm is done."
There was a man by the name of Becket running
a saw-mill near town — that is, a handsaw-mill ; he
had a whipsaw. The lumber for sluice-boxes and
long-toms was cut by hand, and was worth at the
saw-pit twenty-five cents per foot, or two hundred
and fifty dollars per thousand ; a pretty good price
for lumber, Humboldters would say. I got
Cummins a job with Becket sawing at ten dollars
per day. After a while he bought a half of the
concern, which consisted of one whipsaw, two files
and a fixture to file the saw with, which he j)aid
Becket one hundred dollars for. They averaged
their twenty-five dollars per day eacli, for some
time. Subsequently a man by the name of Lathrop
started a small mill at the mouth of Weaver Creek,
six miles below toAvn, and made a road n^ to town
at his own expense, and sold lumber at twelve and
a half cents per foot, which put a stop to wliip-
sawing. This man Lathrop was a go-ahead fellow.
Before starting the mill there was quite a flat just
above the mouth of Weaver Creek, covered with
willows and other brush, and he started in clearing
it up for a farm. The people used to make fun of
him. The idea of raising anything in those mount-
I4S PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ains seemed prei)osterons; but the MIoav kei)t on
with his Avork, and got a few acres cleaved and a
ditcli dug to irrigate it, and phmted his seed. The
garden proved to be splendid property ; everything
grew to j)erfection, and the price he charged was
huge. For a small bunch of radishes, twenty-five
cents ; onions, twenty-five cents ; melons, from one
to two dollars each ; potatoes, fifty cents per pound,
and other things in proi)ortion, and then could not
begin to furnish half that was required. He told me
that frequently one mule load Avould bring him
from seventy-five to one hundred dollars. He built
a fish-trap at the mouth of the creek, and caught
anv amount of salmon, which were a luxury in
those days, and these he sold at fifty cents i)er
pound. In a couple of years the old fellow sold his
place for fifteen thousand dollars, and Avent to San
Jose, and, I heard, paid forty thousand dollars for
a ranch there. The old man was a sort of a
preacher. He would work all the week and preach
to the boys on Sunday. He was more successful in
making money and raising vegetables than he was
in saving souls, the boys used to say. Others, seeing
the success of Lathrop, took up every piece of land
that woukl raise anything in the county, and were
generally successful. Vegetables always brought a
good price. The fish operation was soon a
failure, for when the mines came to be ox^ened, the
debris running into Trinity stopped the salmon from
running up stream. Erom a clear mountain stream
CHANGING THE COURSE OF TRINITY RIVER. 149
it became a red, muddy river to its moutL, wliicli
was death to the salmon.
Speaking of preaching, we had very little of it.
For the tirst two years there was a Methodist
minister stationed at Shasta, forty miles from
Weayeryille, and once in a while he would paj^ the
sinners at Weayeryille a yisit. Sometimes he
would come on foot, and sometimes he would make
the raise of a mule to ride on. Tliey had their
services generally in the street, with not much of
an audience. Some fellow at the end of the service
would j)ass the hat around and make a collection
for him to ]3ay his expenses. To the Meth-
odists belong the lionor of being the i)ioneers of the
church in Northern California. Many of them were
good, earnest Christians, and some of them had to
stand on their muscle. I remember in '51 there
was a minister by the name of Hill stationed at
Shasta. When he announced his first meeting
there, he was to sx^eak from the balcony of a hotel.
There were some gamblers who said no IMethodist
minister should preach in that town while they
were there. Mr. Hill heard the threat, but paid no
attention to it. When the time arrived Mr. Hill
commenced his services by singing a hymn. There
was a crowd gathered to see the fun. One of the
gamblers went upstairs where Mr. Hill was singing,
and told him to desist or he would throw him over
the banister. Mr. Hill tried to reason with him ;
but he came there to clean out the preacher, and he
150 ^ PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
was bound to do it. He attempted to lay hold of
the preacher, not thinking there was any fight in a
Christian, when Mr. Hill gave him a blow between
the eyes and laid him out, and in an instant, before
he knew what hurt him, the preacher had him over
the banisters and coolly remarked, "If there are
any more of you, come on before I commence my
sermon. I do not like to be interrupted in my dis-
course." The boys gave the j)reacher a big cheer.
He met no more interruption, and became quite a
favorite with the miners.
MAIL MATTERS- 151
CHAPTER XV.
Mail Matters.
Mail matters. — A dollar for a letter. — First postoffice at Weaverville.
— Carrying mail m a hat. — The express business. — Rival bakers. —
A Fourth of July celebration. — Roast beef and plum pudding.
I will give my readers a slight description of how
mail matters were oj)erated in early days. When
new mines were discovered, or a camp located,
some enterprising genius would go around and take
the names of all the miners in camp and start an
express, each man generall}^ taking a paper. The
paper taken, if lie was a Western man, would be the
Missouri Bepuhlican or Louisville Journal \ if an
Eastern man, the New York Herald', if a Whig, the
Xew York Tribune, which they paid fifty cents for.
Each letter you paid one dollar for, and happy was
he who got a letter. Men did not begrudge the
dollar. Seldom would you go into a miner's tent
or cabin without finding one or more of the papers
I have mentioned. The emigrant, not knowing
where his residence was going to be, instructed his
friends to direct his letters to San Francisco or
Sacramento; hence, the local expressman sometimes
152 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
made a good thing in liis business. Mail matter
all came by way of tlie Isthmus, and much of it
never reached California. I was in the country
one year before I received a letter from home. I
wrote regularly once a month, but could get no
answer. Finally, I hit upon a plan that made things
better. I wrote and directed my parents to put the
letter "Y" for a middle name when addressing me.
They did so, and after that my letters came gener-
ally correct.
In the fall of '51 Uncle Sam gave us a postoffice
at Weaverville. I well remember the first United
States mail that arrived. The carrier Avas a fellow
by the name of Weed. There was one letter in the
mail, and the mail -bag was his hat. Tliat letter was
directed to Dr. Winston, the newly-appointed j^ost-
master of Weaverville. There was some rejoicing
when we found that we could have our mail di-
rected to AVeaverville, instead of Sacramento City.
Yet the express business grew and multiplied.
Prom carrying letters and papers, they commenced
doing a banking business, and buying gold-dust.
At one time in Weaverville there were three of
those express companies established; and to those
early express riders the peoj)le of California owe a
debt of gratitude. Through flood and storm they
rode, often swimming their animals over mountain
torrents and wading through snow for miles. The
express riders were always on time, safely guarding
the express and treasure placed in their charge.
MAIL MATTERS. 153
These men carried nine-tentlis of the gold-dust
mined in the State to Sacramento and San Fran-
cisco, and I do not remember one of them j)roving
untrue to his trust. IMany times they were at-
tacked by liighwaymen and robbers, but they gen-
erally came out best ; or, if Avorsted, they were first
on the trail of the thieves. They generally were
a jovial set of felloAVS. There was one fellow who
rode out of Weaverville bv the name of BarstoAv. I
believe he is noAV one of the princij)al men in
Wells, Eargo & Oo\s office at San Erancisco. In
one of his rides up through the Sacramento Valley,
Barstow came to a liouse completely surrounded
with Avater — the riAcr had OAcrrun its banks and
Avas sj)reading oAcr the valley. He saAV a woman
Avith a long pole prodding around the yard. She
had on a pair of rubber boots. He stoj^ped and
asked Avhat the matter Avas, or if one of the children
was droAvned. She said :
"Xo; but the children is "dogoned" dry, and I'm
tryin' to find the Avell to get 'em a drink of good
Avater."
BarstoAV did not say Avhether she found the Avell
or not, but he felt certain that thej did not die for
want of Avater.
Occasionally one of these fearless riders would
j)ay the penalty of his rashness. Charles Shaffer
Avas one of them. He alwaAS made his boast that
no riA er Avould stop him, and no snow in the mount-
ains Avas too deep for him to cross. But the poor
154 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
t'elloAV got caught at last. For several days it had
been raining and snowing in the Trinity mountains,
the rivers were all high, and every gulch and
canyon was full of water. Charley made the trip
up in safety, until he reached Brown's Creek, three
miles from Weaverville, the last he had to cross.
Coming to it he undertook, it is supposed, to swim
his mule across, but the bank had washed away on
the other side of the stream, and his mule could not
make a landing, consequently both mule and rider
went down with the torrent, and Charley was lost.
The people of Weaverville, supi)osing that he would
not make the attempt to come through in such a
storm, paid no attention to it until the next day,
when one of the other riders came in and inquired
for Charley, having been told that he left Shasta
two days previously. A band of men started on
the trail. On Brown's Creek they found the mule ;
he had got out of the stream Avith the saddle on,
and the treasure and the express matter all right.
But the body of Charley they could not find, nor
has it been found to this dav. A reward was of-
ft/
fered for the recovery of tlie body, but without
avail. Manv of tliose brave men lost their lives in
the faithful discharge of tlieir duty, and they de-
serve a monument to their memory.
When a town or camj) was started and new dig-
gings discovered, the trading-post soon made its
appearance ; then the saloon, the bakery and the
butcher-market. We had three bakeries in WeaA^-
MAIL MATTERS. 155
erville before we bad inucb of a toAvn. Tbere was
more rivalry in tbat line of business tlian any otber.
One of tbe bakeries was kept by a man named
Horton, tbe second one by Dutcb Cbarlie, and tbe
otber by a man wbose name I baye forgotten. Tbey
used to accuse Horton of selling ligbt-weigbt bread.
It came to Horton's ears ; be didn't like tbe accu-
sation. He baked some fine large loayes and got
one loaf eacb from tbe otber bakeries. Placing bis
wares on a dry-goods box in tbe street in front of
his bouse, be labeled tbe loayes from eacb bakery :
" Tbis is Dutcli Cbarley's bread," and " tbis is from
tbe otber bakery." His own big loaf was labeled,
"Tbis is Horton's bread," witb a bottle of brandy
and a glass beside it, labeled, " Tbis is Horton's
brandy — belp yourself." Dutcb Cbarley soon beard
of tbe layout. Tbere was one mad Dutcbman. Start-
ing for tbe scene witb a double-barrelled sbot gun,
he placed himself in front of Horton's door with
the shot gun at bis shoulder, singing out: " Come
fon de house out ! Come fon de bouse out, you
dam hound dog scamp you ! I shoot you too hell
pitty dam quick anyhow ! You scheat mit de bredt
de pbeobles, gotdamyou !"
Einally, he made a raid on the dry-goods box,
breaking the brandy bottle and stamping the bread
into the earth, and retreated to his OAvn cabin in
good order.
On the Eourth of July, '51, the miners had a
grand old time in Weayeryille, gathering from all
156' PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the surrounding diggings, and Horton gave a big-
dinner, cliarging two dollars for each plate. After
dinner there was speech-niaking, singing, and a
general good time. Black Dan with his fiddle was
brought out, and the boys danced in the street dur-
ing the afternoon and along into the night. Tliey
Avanted Mrs. Horton to join in the dance, but she
declined. Einally, some felloAV offered her five dol-
lars for one of her old hats, if she would not come
herself. She let him have it, and in every set the
hat was placed in the center and the set prome-
naded around it with as much dignity as though
Mrs. Horton was under it. At the end of every set
the order was given : " All promenade to the bar,"
where the gents had to treat the make-believe
ladies. Everything passed off in good sliape, Avith-
out a roAV or casualty.
The boys in our tent Avanted me to get them up
a ffood dinner for the Fourth of JuIa'. I asked
Avhat they wanted. Tliej^ in fun told me, " roast
beef and plum-pudding." I told them they should
haA e it.
"Yes," said one of them, "it Avill be a h — 1 of a
plum-pudding youll make."
I had no notion of doing it Avhen I prcmiised
them, but tliey kept teasing me about it, until I
made uj) my mind to do it or " bust." So, on tlie
morning of tlie Fourth, I commenced operating on
my pudding and roast beef. I Avent to the store
and got raisins, currants, cinnamon, etc., four or
MAIL MATTERS- 157
iive jionncls of tallow, and a roast of beef. One of
the boys helped pick the raisins and mince the suet.
Einall} , I got all iny ingredients ready, and got it
made uj), when one of the fellows looked into the
dish and suggested that I make more of it, at the
same time emptying part of the contents of the
tlour-sack into the disli on top of my pudding.
Then I had to get more raisins, more currants,
more suet. I added nearly a box of yeast powder
to it to giye it a start. I got a lift} -pound flour-
sack to cook it in. AVhen the dough was put in, it
half filled the sack. I tied it u^p and put it into
the camp-kettle that was boiling on the fire, with
some doubts as to its eating qualities when cooked.
My roast beef I managed in this way: I droye
down two stakes on each side of the fire, bored
holes in tlieni and run a piece of round iron through
the beef and tlirougli the holes. The iron would
turn in the holes and the meat Avas roasted before
the fire. In this way the roast of beef was cooked,
and it is no exaggeration to say that it was good,
and well done.
To come back to the plum pudding : As soon as
the yeast powder began to do its duty, my j)udding
began to swell, burst the tying strings, and filled
the flour-sack full to its mouth, and some of it ran
oyer into the camp-kettle. Einall} , after four or
fiye hours cooking, we got the huge fellow out of
the kettle, but we had no dish big enough to hold
it, so one of the boys got the coyer of a dry-goods
158 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
box, and we laid it out on tliat. The tug of war was
to get it out of tlie sack. Finally, we had to skin
the sack off of it as you would peel a banana. It
was a beauty when skinned. I had some misgiv-
ings as to its being cooked through before it was
cut; but it was all right, except a little in the
center. We had a glorious dinner — roast beef,
plum pudding with brandy sauce, etc. We invited
everybody we saw to dinner, and had plum-pudding
and roast beef for the rest of the week. I believe
that was the first plum-pudding ever made in the
county, and I know it was the largest one that ever
graced the festive board in good old Trinity. The
boys did not "josh" me any more about roast beef
and plum-pudding.
A POLITICAL CONTEST. 159
CHAPTER XVI.
A Political Contest.
A miner knifed and a graveyard begun. — Providing for the winter. —
A visit to Sacramento. — A political contest.— An enthusiast's report
concerning Humboldt. — Weaverville laid out regularly. — Squaring
an account. — Bringing water from Weaver Creek. — Accessions of
settlers from Humboldt. — A town jackass.
Tilings went on tolerably smooth after the Fourth
excejit that ^VG had a row now and then to j)'^ss
away time. Two miners were pla} ing poker in a
cabin and got into a row over the game, when one
of them cut the other in the bowels with a knife,
and then went and informed some other men of what
he had done, and immediately left. The fellow who
was cut died before morning, but the fellow who
did the cutting got away, and was never heard of
afterwards. AVe buried the victim on a point just
back of the town. I believe he was the first occu-
pant of the graveyard. Afterwards there were
several more buried alongside of him, but the place
where they were buried proved to be good diggings
and the miners worked uj) to the coffins, and the
dead were transferred by order of the County Judge
T(JU PrOXEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
over to tlie neAv (cemetery on the south side of the
town.
Fall came on, and everybody laid in for the
winter a large stock of flour, bacon, and such other
things as were needed, but the w inter proved a very
open one — that is, the forepart of it. My stock of
iron and steel ran Ioav, and 1 made up ray mind to
go below and la}^ in a new supply for the spring.
Previous to this I bought my iron in the Sacra-
mento Valley — old tires that I made picks out of ;
they becoming scarce I went to Sacramento City
for a stock. After purchasing the stock and getting
the packs ready for a start, I Avas introduced to two
men who afterwards became well known in Hum-
boldt county. They were Hi Hogoboom and Si
Birdsel. They had just arrived from the East, and
were looking for employment in Sacramento. I
got them a passage to Weaverville with the train
that packed up my stock, and made up my mind to
see the sights at the capital for a few days, and en-
joy cIa ilization for a short time.
The Legislature was in session at the time, and
I called on our representatives, McKenzie and Mc-
Mullan. The seat in the Senate from our district
was contested, the contestants being John A. Lyle,
the Whig candidate, and John H. Harper and J. W.
Denver, both Democrats. The Senate could not
agree as to which of the contestants was entitled to
the seat, so they sent it back to the people of the
district to decide. Both McKenzie and McMullan
A POLITICAL CONTEST. IGl
were AVliigs, and tbc} invited me to a Whig cancns
tliey held one evening, and wanted my views as to
the strongest Whig in the district to run against J.
W. Denver. John H. Harper had withdrawn from
the contest and left the Democratic tield clear for
J. W. Denver. When my advice was asked, I
recommended Robert Gr. Stuart as the most avail-
able Whig we had in the county, and McKenzie
sided with me. H. G. Stuart was a young man, but
a short time from Ohio, a graduate of one of the
Ohio collei>es. His father, Matthew Stuart, was a
merchant in Weaverville, and was conducting large
money operations for that day. Bob, as the boys
used to call him, Avas a general favorite Avith the
boys, and likely to make a good run. Then came
the rub. The election was but fifteen days off,
and the caucus did not know whether Stuart would
consent to make the run or not. They proi^osed
that I should start for home next day and induce
Stuart to accei^t the nomination for the Senate
against J. W.Denver. I demurred to the arrange-
ment, as I had not had my time that I j)romised
myself at the city, but I finally consented, and
started for Weaverville. There came on a terrible
snowstorm before I reached Weaverville. I was
delayed two or three days on account of high water,
but arrived safe. After consulting Stuart and call-
ing a meeting of the principal AYhigs, we induced
Stuart to make the run, which he did. I was sent
to Big Flat on election day, the home of General
162 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Denver, to help Stuart, and see tliat all went on the
square. AVhen the x^olls Avere opened, everything
was for Denver. Tliere were ten or twelve Erench-
nien on the bar who had passes signed by Patrick
Dillon, the French consul in San Erancisco, and
they voted them on the Frencli j)asses. That was
sufficient — in went the vote for the General. At
Weaverville- it was diiferent, Stuart receiving
seventy majority, which, if it had been a fair ballot,
would have elected him; but, when Denver's friends
found out that Stuart Avas elected, some of them
sent to Indian Creek and brought in sufficient re-
turns to elect Denver. There were at the time but
three or four men on Indian Creek, but Wm. M.
Lowe carried in the returns which gave Denver, I
think, thirty-six majority, and elected him. Stuart
did not care enough about the position to contest
the election, so the Greneral took his seat as Senator,
and made a good one. Denver afterwards became
Secretary of State, and Avas elected to Congress. He
was a man of good ability and sterling honesty of
character. Whether engaged in dealing out goods
on Big Flat to the miners, or legislating in the
halls of Congress, he Avas the same honest Demo-
crat. FcAV names in public life in the early days of
California history stand higher than that of General
DenA er. R. G. Stuart afterAvards studied laAV Avith
Judge Pitzer, and practiced in WeaA erA^lle. The
last I heard from him he Avas Collector of Customs
at Olympia, Washington.
A POLITICAL CONTEST. 163
Old Mattliew Stiiiirt got the Humboldt fever, and
came down to this comity to pros])ect. It was told
of him that he and his party were prospecting
about Eel River for a town-site, and, finding a lo-
cation that suited them, commenced to lay otf the
town, and had it partly surveyed. One day, while
waiting for dinner, one of the party looked up into
a tree and saw a lot of driftwood in its branches.
Turning to Colonel Stuart, he asked : " Colonel,
what is that uj) in that tree 1" The Colonel jumped
up, and, on examination, pronounced it driftAvood,
remarking, "Our town is gone toh — 1, sure ! " The
old gentleman was not very particular in his lan-
guage, and used a great many "cuss words." He
and his party came back after prospecting Hum-
boldt county, and gave a gloAving account of Hum-
boldt as to its resources, soil, lumber, etc. I in-
quired of him as to its climate and health. As to
climate it "was the d — t best on the face of the
earth ; and as far as health was concerned a man
would live until his hair dragged the ground if he
did not dry up and blow away." Such was the ac-
count the old Colonel gave of Humboldt county
when he got back to Weaverville. He wanted to
get up a company right away and come down and
settle, and tried very hard to get me to join him,
but I could not see it in as favorable a light as he
represented it. The old gentleman had to return
to Ohio before he got his company organized, and
his colony fell through.
t()-i PIONEEE DAYS IN CALIFORmA.
About this tiuie we found the diggings about
AYeaverville were going to prove good and perma-
nent, and people commenced buikling. Tliere was
no system, everybody building where he j)leased ;
no title or ownership lo the land, and no system of
streets. A few of us got together and laid out the
main street and devoted it to the public use ; then
staking oif our lots each man took his sixty feet
front and one hundred and sixty feet back, and got
his claim recorded with the County Clerk. J. C.
Burch was County Clerk at the time, and he
charged sixteen dollars for recording my claim. It
was the first piece of land j)ut on record north of
Shasta. Others followed, and soon the toAvn was
all taken up and recorded. There was no strife, or
lot grabbing; Avhat a man did not want to use was
left for his neighbor. Bally Long and McConnaha,
now of Areata, built a new saloon and ball-alley.
Bally Long was a genius in liis way, and a good
sort of fellow, but would bear watching. When
Bally started to build his alley, I made him one
hundred sj)ikes to spike it with, there being no large
nails or sx>ikes kej)t in town at the time. At the
opening of the alley, the bo} s thought they would
give Bally and Mac a benefit, or a "send-oif ;" so
they started in to paint the town red, which the}^
did in good style, I with the rest. A few days
afterwards I went to Bally and wanted to know
what my bill was. He looked at his book and said,
"It is just one hundred and ten dollars, but give
A POLITICAL CONTEST. " 165
me one hundred and we will call it square." "All
right," 1 said, " I believe 1 have a bill against you."
"Yes," he replied, "bring it in and we will settle."
I started for the shop and made out his bill, charg-
ing him oiie dollar each for the sj)ikes and some
other little things which brought the bill up to one
hundred and ten dollars. Presenting the bill to
Bally he looked at it, remarking " That is tlie d — dest
best price for spikes I ever paid." " Yes, Bally, I
admit il is a good price for spikes, but one hundred
and ten dollars for two rounds for twenty or twenty-
five men is the d — dest best price I ever paid ; but I
will not allow you to be any more liberal than I, I
will throw off the ten dollars and call the thing
square." " All right," replied Bally, " I never dis-
pute a gentleman's bill, what will you take*? Say
notliing about it and we will call it square."
In the summer of '51, when the gulches began to
dry up, and water to work with became scarce, men
began to consider hoAV water could be brought into
the diggings from the two branches of Weaver
Creek. Jim Howe surveyed a ditch from East
Weaver into liis claim, and set men to work on it,
claiming eight "tom-heads" of water. The claim
was made by posting notices at the head of the
creek, and that, by the law of the miners, was per-
fectly legal. As soon as Howe commenced work
on his ditch another company organized and laid
claim to all the waters of the creek but the eight
"tom-heads" that Jim Howe had claimed, and com-
166 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
menced operations above Howe's ditcli. I was a
member of the company, and was to pay my share in
cash, while the others worked their interest. The
ditch was called the Shimmons ditcli, as a man by
the name of Billy Shimmons was the organizer of the
company. In dne time the water was brought
into the diggings. My interest in it cost me one
hundred dollars, and, as I Avanted to give my friend
Cummings a start, I sold it to him for one hundred
dollars, the same as it cost me. In four jears from
that time the same interest was worth four thous-
and dollars, and sold for it. Such is luck ! At the
time the ditch was brought in it was not considered
to be of any value, but it became the most valuable
property in Trinity county, and is to this day.
Along in the fall of '51 Ave began to get some
accessions to our population from Humboldt. J.
T. Young and his brother Erank first made their
appearance, Wm. H. Lowe, afterwards Sheriff of
the county, and H. J. Seaman, a brother of Mrs. J.
A. Watson, avIio was afterAvards County Clerk of
the county. Fordice Bates Avas of the Humboldt
delegation. Bates yet remains in old Trinity. The
Hon. George Williams about this time made his
appearance in toAvn. He bought out a bakery and
ran that business for scA^eral years. Wm. T. Olm-
stead, one of our present councilmen of Eureka,
made his apperance in toAvn as an honest miner. Si
Morrison, of Bear Biver, was running a carpenter-
shop, making rockers and toms for the miners. He
A POLITICAL CONTEST. 167
only chars'ed tliein twenty dollars each for the
rockers, and from fifty to sixty each for the long-
toms; bnt then you know Inniber Avas worth twenty-
tiye cents per foot, and torn and rocker iron one
dollar per pound. Well, dust Ayas plentiful and
only worth sixteen dollars i)er ounce. It was the
only circulating medium. Sometimes the fifty-
dollar slug would make its appearance, but it Ayas
not generally liked. I haye weighed hundreds of
dollars of gold-dust Ayith horse-nails. Some of our
late arriyals may think it a " story," but it is a fact,
ncA^ertheless. I had a pair of scales with but a one-
ounce weight. When a miner Ayould come to the
slioj) on Sunday to pay his Ayeek's bill — all bills
AA'ere then settled on Sunday — if his bill Ayas OA^er
sixteen dollars, I would Ayeigh an ounce of horse-
nails, and then another ounce, until I got the
amount correct Ayith the bill, making change Ayith
the cup-Ayeights. Then, liaAdng the horse-nails in
one side of the scale and the dust in the other, I
could weigh any amount of dust that the scale
Ayould hold; in that way I got onyery Ayell Ayith the
little scales.
I will giA^e you the history of one noted character
in the shape of a "toAAm jack" that Aye had at WeaA^er-
yille in the summer of 1851. This Jack Ayas a noted
character in his way, and belonged to a jolly old
Irishman by the name of Hugh Peoj)les. At first
Ayhen the boys Ayanted to use him they Ayould ask
old Hugh for the loan of him, to moA e camp from
168 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
one giilcli to the otlier, and were never refused.
Finally he became x^ublic x>roj>erty. The l)0}'s when
they wanted Jack generally took him without say-
ing "by yonr leare." The boys generally lived in
tents, this being before the era of log-cabins, and
cooked their slap-jacks and bacon in front of the
tents; their table was mother earth. Jack generally
came in for part of the "grub;" the boys, when
they got done wit]i using Jack, would generally
pay him for his services with a handful of sugar,
or some cold slap-jacks, which his jackship seemed
to relish very well. Jack got to have a very sweet
tooth, and would not always wait for an invitation,
but would go foraging for sugar and flour on his
o^v n hook among the tents. One night I lay in my
tent thinking of the old folks at home, when I
heard something moving outside. I lay still for a
minute or two, when I perceived Jack's nose under
the tent, prospecting for forage. Having nothing
else handy, I siezed my revolver and hit Jack over
the nose with it, and Jack beat a hasty retreat,
minus the sugar-sack. He retreated in good order
for a short distance, when, turning and faidng the
tent, he commenced serenading us with all the
infernal noise that ever came out of the throat of a
Jack. For the space of five minutes he kej^t up the
music. I suppose he thought if he could not have
our sugar-sack we could at least take some of his
music. About this time some strangers or Philis-
tines came into the diggings, who knew not the
A POLITICAL CONTEST. 169
virtues of Jack. One iiiglii Jack made a raid on
tlicir tent, and they, not being aware of Jack's
nocturnal liabits, supposed it was a bear come to
pay them a visit. Tliey put in Jack's hide a couple
of bullets wliicli made honest Jack sick. He wan-
dered oif a sliort distance into a gulch, and there
gave i\]) the ghost, and his mortal si)irit passed into
the happy hunting-ground of good jackasses. Some
of his friends found Jack's remains, and the word
went round that poor old Jack was dead. The boys
tliought it would be the x^roper thing to give Jack's
remains a decent burial, and assembled on the next
Sunday for that purpose. We had in camp a genius
by the name of Tom Moore, Avho was "some " of an
orator and poet. Tom was selected to deliver a few
remarks over the grave of our departed friend, and
wrote a short poem appropriate to the sad occasion.
Tom Avas on hand with his oration, and for the
space of half an hour x^oured forth some of the best
and most touching remarks that 1 ever had the
good fortune to listen to. The i)oem was a master-
j)iece, something after the style of ihe burial of Sir
John Moore. Tenderly the boys laid Jack's re-
mains in the grave which they had dug for him,
and tenderly they covered him up, placing a stake
at the head of his grave with the following epitaph:
" Here lies the body of Sir William Jackass, who
lost his life while making a raid on the camp of the
Philistines, who knew him not. Peace to his
ashes." After the funeral the boys all marched to
170 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Bally Lang's, and there partook of some of Bally's
liquid refresliments, and after x>assing approj)riate
resolutions adjourned sioie die. So ended the
funeral of j)oor Jack.
GETTING HOMESICK AND VISITING THE OLD HOME. 171
CHAPTER XVII.
Grtting Homesick and Visiting the Old Home.
A visit to the old Eastern home. — Growth of San Francisco. — The pas-
sage to Panama. — A typical Mexican town. — Crossing the Isthmus
on mules. — High prices. — The railway to Aspinwall. — On board the
" Illinois." — In dinner costume. — Sight seeing in Havana. — Fili-
busters.— Death of young Crittenden.
After returning from Sacramento, and the elec-
tion was over, I began to get homesick. I had
received but one letter from home in nearly two
years, and I made up my mind to go back on a
visit, as soon as I got my shoj) built. I let a con-
tract to build a shop 20x30 feet, with the posts in
the ground and covered with shakes four feet long.
It was to be sided up with shakes. The price agreed
on was three hundred dollars when completed,
without windows, doors or floor. When the shop
was finished, I sold one-half interest in it for six
hundred dollars, and rented the other half for one
hundred dollars per month for six months, or until
I got back from my visit East. On the 7th day of
April, 1852, I and six others started for home, as
merry and happy a set of men as ever left those dig-
gins. We were all well, young and hearty; had done
172 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
moderately well, and none of us over twenty-six
years of age. Each man had his gold-dust in sacks
on the mule he was riding. My chum, Doc. Wills,
was one of the i)arty, and a young fellow by the
name of George OXTloughlin; the other names I
have forgotten. George O'Gloughlin was going to
Ireland. His father was Queen's Counselor of one
of the counties in Ireland, and had written for him
to come home, as he had a Government position for
him as soon as he arrived. We reached Shasta all
right the next morning, but we could not get seats
in the regular stage for Colusa, as it was already
full, so we hired a fellow who had a sort of stage
wliicli he ran sometimes in opposition to the regu-
lar line, paying him twenty-five dollars each to
take us to Colusa, where the river boats landed.
At that time Colusa was the head of navigation on
the Sacramento River. In a few vears, after the
river was cleared of some snags, the boats com-
menced running up to Ked Bluif, aud then tlie
town of Red Bluff was built. Some parties tried to
have the head of navigation at Major Reading's
place, about forty miles further up the Sacramento,
and one or two boats got up to that point, but the
scheme proved a failure, and Red Bluff remains
the head of navigation.
Trom Shasta to Colusa in the month of April,
'52, through the upper Sacramento Yalley, it would
take a more gifted pen than mine to describe the
beauties of the country. Eor about one hundred
GETTING HOMESICK AND VISITING THE OLD HOME. 173
find fifty miles the Sacrjiiucnto Vallev presented to
the eye one vast phiin of beauty. At that season of
the year eyerytliin"- Avas at its best. The yalley was
studded oyer with great oaks, which at a distance
looked like a yast old orchard. The earth was coy-
ered Ayitli grass and flowers, and, as we went lower
down the yalley, wild oats inade their appearance,
and Spanish cattle were here and there scattered
oyer the plains ; no fences to mar the beauty of the
plains. It was indeed a grand sight. 1 made up
my mind fliat this should be my future home.
Arriying at Sail Francisco, we found the city
much improyed since we left it some fifteen months
j)reyious. Things were beginning to look more j)er-
manent; good buildings were being erected all oyer
the city, and men were beginning to think of mak-
ing tlieir homes in California.
We had no ditticiilty in getting a passage to
Panama, as there were but few going back at that
early day. There were two steamers in port adyer-
tised for Panama, the "Northerner" and the old
" Independence." We took passage on the " North-
erner" — that is, steerage passage. She was an old
steamer that was built to run between New York
and Charleston, South Carolina, as a passenger boat.
Her main saloon was below Avhile in that trade, but
when sent round the Horn she was remodeled and
her saloon placed on the hurricane deck, and what
was formerly her saloon Avas the place for the steer-
age passengers. There were left two state-rooms in
174
PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the steerage, which our crowd hired by paying
twenty-five dollars more for them than in the com-
mon herd. Steerage passage was one hundred dol-
lars to Panama, and we paid twenty-five dollars
extra for our state-rooms. Our reason for hiring
the state-rooms was that we had all our gold-dust
Avith us, and, by j)lacing it in the state-room, and
one of us on guard all the time, it would be pretty
safe. Before leaving San Erancisco we purchased
such eatables and wines as we thought we would
require for our trip, in case we did not like the
ship's grub, and to have a change when we saw fit.
It worked to a charm, and we had a pleasant trip
down the coast, putting in at Acapulco, in Mexico,
and remaining there for one day.
We went ashore to see the sights, and I got my
first idea of how the Mexicans lived. Acapulco
was a small Mexican town with a fine harbor,
comx^letely land-locked. The town was then built
of adobes, one-story high, and the roofs covered
with tiles. The population seemed to be scattering,
and very little business of any sort going on. Cock-
fighting must have been the principal industry of
the place. In front of nearly every house you
could see a game-cock tethered out and ready for
the fray. There was a fort and a garrison on the
other side of the bay, and there being some sort of
a revolution going on at the tmie, they were
expecting a fight every day. They would not
allow any person to approach near their military
GETTING HOMESICK AND VISITING THE OLD HOME. 175
works, so we liad to keej) our distance. As soon as
the ship anchored in the bay, the vessel was sur-
rounded A\ ith the boats and due-outs of the mer-
cantile population of Acaj)ulco, offering for sale all
sorts of tropical fruits and j)roductions of the coun-
tr}'. They generall}^ drove a brisk trade. Another
swarm of Mexican boys, from eight to fourteen
years of age, would come around the vessel and
dive for money. The passengers would frequentl}^
throw into the water a small piece of silver from
the deck of the steamer, and, as soon as the coin
struck the water, the youngsters would go after it,
half a dozen at a time, and generally one of them
got it before it reached the bottom. The bay was
full of sharks, but the boys paid no attention to
them, nor did the sharks seem to pay any attention
to the boys. I asked the Captain about it, and he
told me, " The d — d Mexicans are so full of garlic
and red pepper that the shark's stomach could not
digest one of them." I had to be content with the
explanation.
We left Acaj)ulco and steamed awa}- for Panama,
where we arrived on the eighteenth day from San
Erancisco. We were landed in small boats, as there
were no wharves or piers. The steamer lay off the
city about half a mile, and was loaded and unloaded
by Avhale-boats and lighters. AVhen we reached the
shore, about 10 o'clock in the afternoon, a lot of
runners met us at the boats for the purpose of engag-
ing mules to take us across the Isthmus, or to a
176 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
toAvn called Gorgoua on tlie Chagres River, where
we had to take boats down the river to tlie end of
the railroad. The Americans were then building
tlie railroad across the Isthmus. We engaged the
mules for our party, and struck out for Gorgona
on the same old trail that tlie Spaniards had made
three hundred and fifty years before. It was a
rough old trail. Part of it on the mountain lay
over a rocky bed where the mules' feet had worn
holes in the rock ten or twelve inches deep, and
each time the mules would step in the same old
ludes; in other places the whole trail would be
worn two or three feet deep in the solid rock, and
not over twelve or fifteen inches Avide. There
would be nothing of your mule in sight but his
body and ears. When coming to such x^laces the
rider had to look sharj) and get his legs out of the
way by hauling his feet out of the stirrups and
running them forward towards the mule's ears. If
a man had long legs they generally reached past
the mule's ears, and the first thing that emerged
from the cut was the fellow's feet, then followed the
ears and mule, and the balance of the man.
The first night out we stopped at the Half-way
House, on the mountain. The house was a blue
tent, well stocked with liquors, and the bunks were
canvas cots, for which they charged us one dollar
each. It was a rough looking place. We folloAved our
usual custom and left one of our number on guard
while the others slej)t. Nothing occurred during
GETTING HOMESICK AND VISITING THE OLD HOME. 177
the niglit out of the way, and next morning, after
eating breakfast, our muleteer had the mules up
and saddled, and we started down the mountain on
the Atlantic side of the "backhone." We arrived
at Gorgona and staid all night, with much the same
accommodations as the night previous. Our mules
cost us sixteen dollars each.
Our voyage was now by water. Tlie river was
high and easy to navigate, so we hired a boat and
two men to take us down. The men were Negroes,
two big fellows, who each wore short swords, or
knives about sixteen inches long. The boys kejit
their hands on their revolvers, as they did not like
the looks of our boatmen; but they were all right, and
landed us at the railroad station about 2 o'clock in
the afternoon. ATe had to walk a short distance to
where the cars were stationed, and in that short dis-
tance I saw more horrible looking things in the
shape of crawling insects, than I thought could ever
get into so small a sj)ace of ground. We were pass-
ing tlirough where the graders were at work.
There were snakes, lizards of huge size, tarantulas,
scorpions, and horrible looking things too numer-
ous to mention. Some of the graders were white
men and some of them Negroes. How a white man
could x^ossibly live in such a place I could not com-
prehend. It is said a man died for every sleej)er
laid in building the railroad across the Isthmus of
Panama, and I full}^ believe it. The ground on the
Atlantic side from Gorgona down to Aspinwall is
178 PIONEER DAYS IX CALIFORNIA.
low and iiuirshy, and, with the extreme heat on the
Isthmus, it seems like a miraele that a man would
survive even one week of the elimate. We were
soon sitting comfortably in the ears and on our Avay
to Aspinwall.
There were but few houses in Aspinwall, and
those of American build, shipped out from the
States, and put together on the ground. Aspinwall
was not a very inviting place in which to sto}). The
steamsliix> Illinois Avas in the oiling Availing for the
California passengers, and Ave lost no time in get-
ting on board. The steamer Avas a tine, large ship
and fast, Avith good acconunodations. George
O'Gloughlin and myself took cabin passage, paying
forty dollars each ; the rest of the boys Avent
in the steerage at thirty dollars eacli. Putting
our dust in the steamer's safe Ave Avere all
right so far as that Avas concerned. The first day
out, Avhen the dinner-gong sounded, George and I
Avere in a bad fix, for Ave had no coats to aa ear to
dinner, neither of us having oAvned a coat Avliile Ave
AA^ere in California, and it Avas against the rules of
good bi'ceding and those of the ship to go to dinner
in our flannel shirts. Finalh , as Ave Avere discuss-
ing the situation at the cabin-door, the i)urser
heard our discussion, and said to us, "Gentlemen, I
can helx) you out of our dilemma; avc liaA'e many
such passengers every trip, and I keep a stock of
cheap coats in my office especially for California
gentlemen like yourselves. If you Avill step to my
GETTING HOMESICK AND VISITING THE OLD HOME. l/'.t
office T will fit you out all riglit." We thanked
liiin and went to his office, where he sold us a linen
coat apiece for one dollar and a quarter each, which
gave us admittance to our "grub" without any
further ceremony.
We had a pleasant voyage to the Island of Cuba,
where we ran into the harbor of Havana and stayed
two days coaling-. While in that beautiful citv we
made good use of our time, seeing the sights and
takino- in all there was to be seen. A few months
previous to the time I was there — that was in the
sj)ring of '52 — the "manifest destiny " doctrine was
all the craze in the United States. Eilibustering
was at fever-heat, and the slave-i)ower of the United
States wanted Cuba to extend that institution to
the ever-faithful island. Filibustering was en-
couraged in high places. Young Crittenden, a
nephew of John J. Crittenden of Kentucky, led one
of those filibustering expeditions, with about three
hundred men, to the Island of Cuba, and, after
fighting several battles, nearly the whole band, or
what Avas left of them, were taken prisoners,
brought to Havana, tried by court-martial, and con-
demned to be shot. They were executed just out-
side of the city walls — all that were taken except
two, who claimed British protection, and were
saved by the manliness and pluck of the British
Consul. Young Crittenden met the same fate as
the rest. At that time Americans were looked on
with a good deal of sus^^icion by the authorities of
Cuba, and got very few favors from them.
18U PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XVIIL
Experiences ix Cuba and the East.
Passing for a British subject. — A Bishop's palace. — Spanish soldiers. —
Nude statuary. — -Music and moonhght. — Arrival at New York. —
Sailing down the St. Lawrence. — A glad reunion.— Changes in the
people. — Off again for California. — Marriage. — Arrival at Aspinwall.
Boating on the Chagres River. — Nude natives. — On mule back. —
An anxious mother. — "All legs up."' — In Panama.
We wanted to stay ashore while there, but the
authorities woukl not let us. George O'Gloughlin
said to me, "I can manage it; we will go ashore
and have a good time in spite of them, and see the
city. I am a British subject, and will get a j)ass
from the Britisli Consul." We went ashore,
and, seeing the English flag over an office, went in
as bold as any two Britons. Behind a desk sat a
gentleman with a regular English mutton-choj>
whiskers wlio looked up at us, bidding us good-
morning. He Avanted to know our business, and
George told him we were British subjects who
w anted to see the city, and wanted a pass. He said,
" Who are 3 ou, young man ^ " George said, " I am
George O'Gloughlin, son of the Queen's Counselor
of the county Monaghan, Ireland, and my friend is
EXPERIENCES IN CUBA AND THE EAST. 181
also a British subject." We told him we had four
otlier friends who wished to see Havana while there,
and if lie would pass them he would confer a favor
on them and us. He said, " Young men, if I do so
jou will behave well while in the city 1 " George
spoke up and said," On the honor of an Irish gentle-
man, sir, Ave will cause no trouble." We got our
ticket of good behavior.
There Avas in the office a young man Avho was
formerly in tlie emj)loy of the Consul. He Avas
running a hack in Havana, and Ave employed him
to shoAV us the city. 1 Avas anxious to see the j)lace
Avhere the Americans Avere executed, so he drove
ns to the gronnd on the south side of the city, and
showed us Avhere and how the poor fellows met
their death. They were placed with their backs
against the Avails of the city, each man being blind-
folded, and then shot to death by the Spanish sol-
diers. Young Crittenden and others requested not
to be blind-folded, but their request was not granted.
On examining the Avail Avhere they stood, there
Avere seA'eral blood-stains to be seen. It was told
us that they met their death like heroes. They no
doubt thought the}' Avere doing right in trying to
free Cuba from the Sjianish yoke, but the poor fel-
loAvs paid the penalty with their liA^es, and Cuba
Avas not freed. At that time Havana Avas full of
Spanish soldiers; on every corner you Avould meet
them. Our guide took us to nearly every place
of interest in the city, including the Bishop's palace
182 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
and otlier points of note. Tlie Bisliop's x^alace wai??
by far the finest building that I ever liad seen up
to that time. It was built of marble, the style of
architecture was grand and im}K)sing, and the
grounds surrounding the palace were in keeping
witli the building. In tlie inclosure were birds of
the most beautiful plumage, two young alligators
sj)orting in a i)ond in the center of the grounds,
with fountains of water throwing their spray and
forming miniature rainbows. It was indeed a para-
dise to look upon, and repaid us well for our visit.
It would not have done for Anthony Comstock to
have visited that beautiful phice, or to liave taken a
look at the statuary that ornamented the grounds.
At night there were military bands that played
every evening on the grand plaza in front of the
Go vernor-Generars j)alace. The night we sj)ent there
was a beautiful moonlight one, such a night as is
seldom seen outside of the tropics. The beauty of
niglit and the music of the bands, the gaily-dressed
ladies and gentlemen on the promenade, all went to
make up a grand and beautiful picture. The whole
people of Havana ^seemed to be out enjoying the
scene.
The next day we started for New York, passing
the celebrated Moro Castle with its frowning bat-
teries, ready at any moment to pour death and de-
struction on the enemies of Sj)ain. In a few days
we arrived at ]S^ew York, after a pleasant trip of
thirty days. The most of us sold our dust in New
EXPEKIEXOES IN CUBA AND THE EAST. 183
York. Some of the passengers went to PliilMclel-
pliia to the mint Avith tlieirs, and got it coined on
tlieir OA\n account. In New York the boys all dis-
carded their California rig, and fitted out in the
latest style of " store clothes." Our party there
broke up, some going east, some west and some to
Europe. I hare not seen one of them since.
From ]^ew York it was but a short distance to
my home. Once more I was on board of a steamer
running down the St. LaAvrence River, through the
Thousand Islands and amidst the scenes of my boy-
hood. Grand and beautiful St. Lawrence ! None
can compare with you. I had crossed every river
on tlie American continent that lay in my route,
from the St. Lawrence to the Sacramento, but none
can equal you. AYell are you called " the Mother
of Waters ; " for beauty of scenery and pure and
sj)arkling waters you excel them all.
Mv vovaee was soon ended. At the foot of
the Tliousand Islands lay Brockville, the home
of my aged parents, whom I longed to see. I was
soon folded in the arms of my aged mother and
loving sisters, who looked on me as one risen from
the dead. They knew not of my coming. I took
them by surj)rise. I yet can see my loving mother
taking off her " s^iecks " and cleaning them, in
order to get a better look at her long-lost son; the
wanderer of the family, and her baby. My aged
father's cup was full. That indeed was a haj)py re-
union. When I left home four years previous, I
184 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
was but a boy twenty years of age, and weighed
about one hundred and twenty pounds; after an
absence of four years, I returned a full-grown man,
weighing one hundred and eighty pounds, with
considerable knowledge of the world and mankind
in general. My fond mother would examine me
all round, remarking, "How big he has grown;
California must be a good country, my son ? "
"Yes, mother, California is a big country ; every-
thing in it is big; her mountains, her trees, her
valleys, and why not her adopted sons '? We have
lots of room to grow as large as we please out there,
mother." I had ten thousand questions to answer,
and for a time I was the lion of the hour, being the
first one back from the land of gold who had gone
from that section of the country. I had some gold-
dust and a fifty-dollar slug, Avhich I had to exhibit
very often, to satisfy the curiosity of my friends. I
was not long in parting with what little dust I
brought home, and it did not bring me much profit.
1 enjoyed my visit for a short time. I had been
gone from home for four years, and many of my
old associates were gone, and scattered all over the
United States. The youngsters, or next crop, had
grown uj) and were like strangers to me. Out of
one hundred and twenty or thirty apprentices who
served their apprenticeshij) during the time I was
one, but four were left in the town when I got
back. Such is the way in which Uncle Sam ab-
sorbs the bone, sinew and youth of British America.
EXPERIENCES IN CUBA AND THE EAST. 185
I soon tired of tlie ways of the country and the
people, and longed for my free California life. I
found myself almost like a stranger in my old
home. The old town seemed to have lost its attrac-
tions for me. Outside of my family everybody
seemed to me to have changed; but, I suppose, the
greatest change was in myself.
After making my visit out, I once more turned
my face toward the West, intending to make my
permanent home on the shores of the Pacific. I
took a trip to Wisconsin, where my brother resided,
who, with his family, was to accompany me back to
California. There was a gentleman residing on
Oregon Gulch by the name of Levi RejTiolds, who
wanted me to bring out his wife and son with me
whcQ I came back, so I Avent to Madison, AViscon-
sin, and got her and the boy and started for Isew
York. After arriving in ^^ew York I visited friends
residing in New Jersey; made quite a number of
visits, and got caught by one of New Jersey's fair
daughters, who agreed to share with me the perils
of life in California. AYe were married, and for
thirty-six years she has shared the ups and downs
of California life, with me like a true woman. Mv
brother and his wife had now come on to New York,
and on the 5th of September we started for Aspin-
wall on the steamship " United States." Our voy-
age was a pleasant one, and quite a number of
ladies were on board. Several returning Califor-
nians with their families were wending their way
186 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
back to the Golden State, iiiteiiding to make their
home there.
We arrived at Aspiiiwall on the eighth day from
xS^ew York, and as Boon as hinded took the cars as
far as the road was finished. The fun commenced
when we took the small boats np the Chagres
Eiver. The boats would carry from fifteen to
twenty passengers, and were propelled by natives
with long poles. There were in the boat that we
were in several ladies. I had informed my folks as
to what they were to expect from the crew who
manned our boat. We finally got started with our
dusky crew, who were all dressed up nicely. After
a short time on our voyage, the darkies began to
warm to th^ir work, and off came tlie red bandana
hankerchiefs they had around their heads; a while
longer and off came their shoes; they stood at that
awhile, and then off came their shirts. Some of
the ladies began to feel a little delicate, and were
whispering inquiries to each other as to what
would be the next move, and if they would take off'
their cotton pants, the only vestige of clothing they
had on. We had on board a gentleman with his
wife from Massachusetts, and he wanted to know of
me if they were going any further with their nude
scenery. I told him I did not knoAv; but it was
altogether likely that they would, as it was their
custom. He said, " I will not stand it to have mA'
wife insulted in that way." They went on for
awhile, when one of them started to take off liis
EXPERIENCES IN CUBA AND THE EAST. 187
pants, and that raised tlie Yankee's ire. His wife
begged of liim to raise no disturbance, but he drew
his "pepper-box," and gave them to understand that
he woukl not stand any such foolishness. The
natives were beginning to look quite hostile. There
were four or five of them, each armed with a short
sword, while our crowd was but jjoorly armed, and
there were five or six women with us. I was the
only one that had an effective weapon, a Colt's re-
volver. One of the boatmen understood a little
English, and I talked with him. The women talked
with our Yankee friend, and we got a peace patched
up. The darkies kepi on their breeches, and our
Boston friend was satisfied. That evening we ar-
rived at Gorgona, where we stayed all night.
Gorgona was a little town or collection of huts, a
sort of embarcadero, where we changed our boat
conveyance for that of mule-back over the mount-
ain, or " back-bone," of the American Continent, to
the old city of Panama. There were any number
of mule merchants offering the services of their
animals to the weary traveler, all extolling the
beauties and excellence of their respective donkeys.
As for side-saddles they were unknown at tJiat time,
or at least were not in general use on that route.
It was amusing to see the crowd of argonauts get-
ting started. Many of the ladies at first refused to
ride cavalier fashion, but they had to come to it.
Some had young children, and they frequently hired
natives or Negroes to pack them over on their backs.
188 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
One lady with a small child hired a fellow to pack
it over on his back; the fellow started on ahead
with the baby, and that set the mother almost wild.
She had not seen it all day, and imagined she
never would see it again; but, on arriving at the
stopping-place, she found it all right, sitting on the
darkey's lap, with a strip of pork in its mouth, suck-
ing away at it, apx^arently as happy as " Young Ame-
rica " generally gets. There was one happy mother
when she found her darling all right. The crowd
strung along the trail for five or six miles. Women
declared they could never stand it to gel there; some
wishing they were back home again, and California
might go to the dogs for all they cared; others en-
joying the fun and having a good time of it. I,
having had some experience of the route, managed
to get started ahead of the crowd, and, when we
would come to one of those narrow cuts or wear-
outs in the trail, I would sing out, "All legs up!"
then you would see some tall rustling with the
ladies of our crowd to get their feet out of the stir-
rups and shoot them ahead in order to clear the
sides of the trail and not jam their feet. About the
middle of the afternoon it came on to rain, and we
got soaking wet, but the rain was w arm and it did
but little harm. We arrived at our stoj)ping-place
early in the evening, and got our j)ick of berths or
cots. The last of the crowd did not get in until
two or three hours later. Kext morning I had my
party about the first on the road, my object being
EXPERIENCES IN CUBA AND THE EAST. 189
to get into Panama before the crowd, in order to
get good rooms, which I accomplished. We arrived
in Panama about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and put
up at the AVestern Hotel, kept by a man by the
name of Booth. There were two hotels ke^^t by
Americans — the Western and the American. We
had to lay over at Panama eight days. The Cali-
fornia steamer having not yet arrived, it gave us a
good chance to see the place and take in the sights
of that equatorial city.
190 PIOI<JEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XIX.
Return to San Francisco and Weaver vtlle.
The passage to San f>ancisco. — Distinguished fellow-passengers. — By
river steamer to Colusa; thence by stage to Shasta. — On mule-back
to Weaverville. — The mountain hotel. — Rapid growth of Weaver-
ville. — The killing of Anderson by the Indians. — Vengeance; pursuit
of the Indians. — The annihilation of the tribe.
Panama looked old and dilapidated, and was
built similar to all other Spanish- American cities
that I had seen. The seawall when built must
have cost a great amount of labor and money.
Some of the old guns w ere yet mounted on the wall —
huge monsters not less than fifteen or sixteen feet
long, and about two feet in diameter at the breech.
The bores were small; they did not seem over three
inches in diameter. There was said to be a large
amount of silver in them. AVe visited some of the
principal churches; they, like everything else, were
once magnificent structures, but much of their glory
had dep'uted. We also visited the old cemetery;
it was truly a golgotha, or place of skulls. Lying
about promiscuously were skulls, legs, arms and all
parts of the human form, with huge lizards and
other reijtiles crawling over them. We did not
RETL-RN TO SAN FRANCISCO AND WEAVERVILLE- IDI
tiirrv long there ; one visit to the place was sntfi-
cient. The weather was very warm, and tlie stench
from the place was rather unpleasant. When we
shuffle otf this mortal coil we do not want to be
buried at Panama. In a few days after we got there
the old steamsliip "California" arrived from San
Francisco with lier passengers, and she had to wait
for some passengers who were coming to Aspin-
^vall ,\ week later than when we came; among
tliem was Senator Gwin, afterwards called the
"Duke of Sonora," and the Hon. Josej^h McCorkle,
Congressmen from California. We took passage on
the "California," and steamed for San Francisco; the
old Duke was quite social until he found I was a
AYhig, then he cut me entirely. Not so with Mc-
Corkle; he was a jolly good fellow. I found him a
splendid hand to make morning cocktails, and he
kept a good supply on hand. During the voyage
we stopped at Acapulco and San Diego, and on the
sixteenth dav from Panama we arrived in San Fran-
cisco in good condition.
1 was anxious to get home, and left Sacramento
the evening before the big tire at that city, taking-
passage to Colusa on the steamer, and then by stage
to Shasta.
I liad been describing the beaul j- of the Sacra-
mento Yalley to my wife during the trip out; its
beautiful floAvers, etc.; but when we got into the
valley everything was dried up, the roads knee-deep
in dust, and not a drink of good water to be had
1*,)2 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
during our trip from Colusa to Shasta. The
hidies commenced to poke fun at me, wanting me
to show them some of those beautiful flowers that I
described to them; another one would sj)eak out
and say, " Please, John, won't you pick me a bou-
quet at the next station;" In that way they amused
themselves at my expense. We rode in the stage
all night, and next morning arrived at Shasta about
11 o'clock, tired, and well worn out. After a good
night's rest we started for Weaverville on mule-
back, a distance of about forty-live miles. There
was but one lady's saddle in Shasta at that time,
and there were three ladies in tlie crowd; the con-
sequence Avas that two of them had to ride cavalier
style; but they had got somewhat used to that style
of riding in crossing the Isthmus.
Our first day out we stopped at McLouglin's, or
the jMountain House, which was built while I was
liome. Old " Mc " had got his wife out, and was keep-
ing a hotel near the summit of the Trinity mount-
tain. Old McLouglin and Mrs. " Mc " were the best
of landlords. They gave us a hearty welcome. The
old man, after various ups and downs, commenced
to drink too much liquor, and, things not going to
suit him, he came to the conclusion that he had
seen suflicient of this wicked a\ orld, and one day
hanged himself out in his woodshed. Eor atleastten
vears old " Mc " and Mrs. " Mc " and their Mountain
House were as well known as any stopping-place in
Northern California; to get there was a sure guar-
RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO AND WEAVERVILLE. 193
antee of kind welcome, a good supper, bed and
breakfast. My friend Barstow can vouch for the
truth of this, as he has often partaken of tlieir
refreshments, both solid and liquid, during his
express rides between Shasta and Weaverville.
Crossing the Trinity mountain, we arrived in
Weaverville that evening all right, but the Weaver-
ville that I found Avas not the one that I had left
six months x^ieviously. From seven or eight houses
that were in the place when I left for home in the
spring, it had grown to a full-sized mining town,
with numerous stores, gambling-houses, hotels,
livery stables, and everything composing a Cali-
fornia mining town of the first magnitude. On my
way from San Erancisco iip I heard of the grow th of
the i^lace, but could not realize it until I got there.
When I left in April there was no value to town
lots. If a man wanted to sell out he got the value
of his imx)rovements. But all this was changed.
Lots now became valuable, and a twenty-foot front
was w^orth from six to eight hundred dollars.
Several two-story buildings were erected; the
United States Hotel, kej)t by Josej)h Ewing and
his wife, Mrs. Henrietta Ewing, now of Eureka;
the American Hotel, kept by a man named Gra-
ham. The Independence Hotel was not yet finished.
Two saw-mills were kept running day and night.
Such was the rush, if a man wanted a bill of lum-
ber, he had to send his bill in a month ahead. The
194 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
early settlers went at things Avitli a will peculiar to
Californiaiis of that day.
I will have to go back some four or five months
earlier, and relate some things that took place dur-
ring my absence from Weaverville, that may be in-
teresting to my readers. It was about the last of
April or the first of May, '52. The firm of Ander-
son, McKenzie & AVinston were doing the prin-
cipal butchering business of the county. They
bought large bands of cattle, and kept them on what
was called Stuart's Fork, about sixteen miles from
Weaverrille, where the range was good. Old man
Anderson was in the habit of driving six or eight
head at a time, as they wanted to use them, to
Weave rville; so, one morning he, with his dog,
started for the range after his herd. The Indians
were getting somewhat troublesome, and his friends,
among the number W. T. Olmstead, now of Eureka,
advised him not to go alone, but take more help
with him. The old man said that he was not afraid;
that he and his dog could whip all the Digger
Indians in the country. He started for Stuart's
Eork, and got there all right; took his cattle from
the herders and started back. When about five or
six miles from the range he was attacked and killed
by the Indians, his dog meeting the same fate. Not
making his appearance, some uneasiness was felt
as to his safety, and next morning, when his mule
came into town, it was felt that he was dead, and a
company of men started out to hunt for him. They
RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO AND WEAVERVILLE- 195
searched carefully, but returned without find in i>'
him. Another crowd started out next day, and
found the body about half a mile from the trail,
down the side of the mountain, xnerced with seyeral
arrows, and lying behind a log. The spot where
the body was found had the aj^pearance that a
fierce struggle had been enacted. The old man
was as braye and fearless a man as eyer crossed the
Sierras, and no doubt sold his life as dearly as pos-
sible. The company which found the body sent it
back to Weayeryille for interment, and took the
Indian and cattle-trail and started in pursuit. As
soon as the body reached Weayeryille, the cry went
forth for yengeance. Eyery man in the j^lace who
could get away to ayenge the old man did so. He
was a general fayorite with the people. The crowd
organized under the command of Dixon, Sheriff of
the county. Merchants and others furnished sup-
plies; eyerything was free for the yolunteers on
that expedition. In the meantime the party which
had found the Indians' trail followed it. They took
a circuit from where they committed the murder
around Weayeryille, near the foot of old Bally,
eight or nine miles from the town, and crossed the
Trinity Riyer near the mouth of Canyon Creek,
where the re-enforcements under Sheriff Dixon
oyertook them with proyisions. The comx^any now
numbered about seyenty men. They crossed the
Trinity on the Indian trail, which led np the
mountain on the diyide between the Trinity Riyer
196 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
and the Hiiy Eork Yalley. That beautiful a alley
had not yet been discovered by the whites. The
progress of the volunteers was naturally slow, and
besides they Avanted to give the Indians a show to
get to their home, so as to make a clean sweep of
them. They trailed them to what is since known
as the summit of the Hay Fork Mountain ; then
they turned northeast, and followed the summit of
the mountain for some eighteen or twentv miles:
then, turning down tlie mountain into the Hay
Fork Valley, they crossed the Hay Eork — a tribu-
tary of the Trinity — with the avengers of old man
Anderson close on their track. Ko bloodhound
ever followed his human prey with keener scent
than those boys. They trailed tlicm into tlie Hay
Eork Valley, the signs getting fresh. They found
where the Indians had killed one of the cattle but
a short time before, and scouts were sent out and
the utmost caution Avas used. They Avere discov-
ered in Avhat is noAV known as Bridge Ciulch, about
one mile east of the Hay Fork, encamped on a flat
aboA^e the natural bridge. The Aolunteers kept
themselACS under cover until after dark, in the
meantime the scouts examining the approaches to
the Indians' camp. The Indians Avere making-
merry over their caj)ture, and gorging themselves
with the stolen meat. In the middle of the night
the volunteers diA ided into four parties, and stole to
their respectiA^e stations. There were many of the
late soldiers of the Mexican Avar, and Avestern
RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO AND WEAVERVILLE. 197
h-oiiticrsmeii from Texas and Missouri amongst
them, who thorouglily understood their business as
Indian hunters. AT hen each j)arty got their sta-
tions, they were to lie on their arms until daylight,
when, at a given signal, they were to attack the
camp simultaneously. The attack was well j)lanned
and well executed. When the volunteers reached
the stations assigned to them, everything in the
Indian camp was quiet and peaceful; all nature
seemed at rest. When dayliglit began to make its
apj)earance in the east, history was about to repeat
itself. A second Glencoe was about to be enacted
— this time in the highlands of California instead
of tlie highlands of Scotland. A tribe of people
was about to be blotted from the face of the earth
for revenge. As soon as it was sufficiently light to
see that none could escape, the signal was given.
The parties adAanced on the camp where the foe
Avere yet sleeping, and then commenced an indis-
criminate slaughter of men, women and children.
Rifles and revolvers did the bloodv Avork, Avith the
he]p of the bowie-knife. After the carnage Avas
OA'er, one hundred and fifty-three dead bodies lay
on the battle-field. Xone escaped but three infants.
One of these was crawling on its dead mother's
breast to find its morning meal, when one of the
volunteers raised his rifle to dash its brains out; but
another, more merciful, intercej)ted the bloAV and
saved the child. He rolled it in his blankets, and
carried it to WeaverA'ille, and gave it to Mrs.
198 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA .
Harj)er, tlie wife of J H. Harper; one of the others,
saved in a similar manner, was brought to town and
given to the wife of Captain Dyer, and afterwards
brought to Hnmbohlt county. Captain Dyer
was the brother of David Dyer, now j)ostmaster at
Bayside, in HumboUlt county. Only one of the
attacking party was liurt, and lie but slightly
wounded with an arrow. Old man Anderson was
terribly avenged. The Trinity Indians were com-
pletely annihilated, and there was no more trouble
with Indians for several years. The volunteers got
part of the cattle back, and W. T. Olmstead was
owner of part of the stolen cattle, and furnished a
man by the name of Meredith for the fight. Twelve
years after, I hunted cattle over the battle-ground.
Part of the bones still lay bleaching on the plains;
skulls and arm and leg bones were scattered over
the ground in all directions.
PROMINENT HUMBOLDTERS — A BLOODY TRAGEDY. 199
CHAPTER XX.
Prominent Humboldters. — A Bloody Tragedy.
A natural bridge and a large cave. — The Hay Fork Valley. — Prominent
Humboldters who lived there. — A bloody tragedy; the killing of
Horton and Eliza Hardenburg b)' a Sheriffs posse. — Fate of the par-
ticipants. — A letter from an old pioneer, General Denver.
In my last I mentioned a natural bridge tliat
was discoTered on the Indian raid. It is indeed a
curiosity, as it sj)ans a gulcli of about one hundred
feet wide. It is about one mile from Hay Eork.
The top of the bridge is perhaps two hundred feet
over, and joins the two mountains as completely as
if done by an engineer on tlie most scientific prin-
ciples. From the top of the bridge to the beginning
of the arch is about fifty feet : then commences a
perfect arch in circular form down to the water — a
little over half a circle — the distance between the
walls being about fifty feet; rising up and down the
stream about sixty or seventy feet, and about fifty
feet between the walls at the bottom. Tlie forma-
tion of the rock is of a blue limestone, apparently
intersected with streaks of quartz. The rock is very
hard, and almost impossible to drill. Sca eral large
boulders seem to have fallen from the arch above,
200 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
and lie on tlie bottom. In the summer the stream
is nearly dry, but under the arch are three or four
wells, or holes, where the water stands all summer,
and such water is hard to be found elsewhere — ice-
cold, sweet and sparkling. The bridge is used in
summer by the inhabitants of Hay Fork Valley as
their picnic grounds, and many a happy day is sj)ent
there by those good people Avhen the water dries
ujj. Under the bridge is a most delightful place to
spend three or four hours during the heat of the
day. No matter how warm it is outside, when you
get under its shade it is cool and refreshing. And
there let the mind contemplate the a ast works of
nature, and the countless ages it has taken that
small stream to make its way through the mountain
and form such a vast arch through solid rock. Man
in his littleness gets lost in contemplating the great
works of the Creator. About fifty feet below the
bridge on the side of the mountain is a large cave,
the mouth of which is small and diificult to enter.
I tried once to make an entrance and explore it,
but I had too much avoirdupois for that. Others
who have exj)lored it inform me they found a room
about ten feet square and seven feet high, but up to
the time of my leaving the valley it never had been
thoroughly exj)lored. Other caves may lie beyond
it for aught we know.
The Indian raid led to the discovery of the Hay
Eork Yalley, which has since become the granery
of the county, and likewise furnished the hay for
PROMINENT HUMBOLDTERS— A BLOODY TRAGEDY. 201
tlie people of Weaverville. It lieacls near the Yolla
Bolla Mountain, running in a southwest course for
about twenty miles, and emptying its waters into
the South Eork of Trinity at Hyampom. In this
valley are some of the best farms or ranches in
Trinity county. Its mountains are covered with
pine and sjjruce timber, and the surface is covered
Avith a ricli growtli of mountain bunch-grass, the
most nutritious of grasses. There have been worked
some very good placer diggings on its tributaries
and down in what is called the canyon. There are
some ricli quartz ledges in the valley, which are
being worked with success and profit. Quite a
number of Humboldt citizens were at one time
farmers and ranchmen of HayEork; amongst them
now residents of Humboldt county are Hon. George
Williams, E. D. Kellogg, W. B. Dobbyn (one of
our recent supervisors), John Carr, Abraham
Rogers, Ben. Blockburger, Thomas Middleton,
Alonzo Sweet, Mrs. Joseph Ewing, Jolm Dodge,
our present vegetable mercliant, Henry Peenaty,
and J. Francis of Hydesville.
After the fight on Hay Eork the boys returned to
Weaverville, and things went on comparatively
smooth until the Fourth of July, '52, when one of the
bloodiest tragedies that ever took place in Nortliern
California was enacted in tliat town — the killing' of
Horton and Eliza Hardenburg, a woman who was
living with hiui. They kept ;i hotel, store and
bakery, the first in the placje. Horton v^as not
202 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
l)rompt in paying his bills below, where he bonght
his goods, and some of his creditors sued him and
attached liis house and contents. Dixon was Sheriff
of Trinity county at tlie time, and he placed a keeper
in charge and closed the place uj). It was coming
on close to the Fourth of July, and Horton wanted
to oj)en his house for that day, telling the Sheriff
he could make sufficient money on the Fourth to
pay the bill if allowed to do so. The Sheriff would
not allow him to do it, and Horton made up his
mind lie would open the house any waj . They
were still in the house with the keeper, and on the
morning of the Fourth, Horton and Eliza Harden-
burg opened the place and commenced business.
The keeper remonstrated with them, but to no
avail, and he then rej^orted to the Sheriff what
Horton was doing. In the meantime Horton and
the woman had armed themselves, with a full deter-
mination of resisting the officers. The Sheriff
summoned a jwsse of five men, and went to the store
of Horton. They found Horton behind the counter
with a revolver cocked in his hand, pointed at the
Sheriff', saying he would kill the first man of the
'posse who entered his house. The woman stepped
to the door of her room, which brought her in the
store, she likewise having in her hand a pointed
revolver, threatening vengeance on the Sheriff and
his men if tbey dared enter the premises. Both
parties stood at bay for a few moments and then one
shot was fired. I never could find out which party
PROMINENT HUMBOLDTERS — A BLOODY TRAGEDY. 203
turned loose first; tlic Sheriff's party claimed that
the woman shot first, and then they turned loose
with a Aenceance. Horton's body was shot full of
bullets, and he fell dead over the counter. Eliza
Hardenburg received two loads of buckslu^t in the
breast and she fell forward on her face and expired.
Men who were j^resent in a few minutes after the
tragedy say that the sight was a horrible one to
look on. Horton's body lay bleeding from a num-
ber of wounds, alread}^ cold in death; the woman's
long, black hair all loose and saturated with her OAvn
blood, her breast torn open with two charges of
buckshot fired at close range, and her features dis-
torted Avith rage. None of the Sheriff's party got a
scratch in the fight. When later in the day the
miners began to come into town to spend their
Eourth, the tragedy put an end to all jollification.
They would gather into small parties and discuss
the doings of the morning with frowning brows,
and it looked at one time as if there Avould be more
trouble, but it appeared as if no jierson was willing
to take the lead. The Sheriff had given the order
to fire, and he had the color of law on his side. A
coroner's jury was summoned, who rendered a ver-
dict of justifiable homicide. The corpses were
buried side by side on a point of land not three
hundred feet from Avhere they fell. Thus ended
one of the most bloody and uncalled for homicides
that ever took j)lace in a civilized community. I
kept track of the participants for ten years. Every
204 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
one of them met an untimely deatli. Dixon, the
Sheriff, either committed suicide or shot himself
accidentally, and lies buried near Pine's dairy
house, on the Bucksport road; Ned Meredith, the
last one of the fiye deputies, was killed while fight-
ing as a rebel during the war in Missouri. What a
contrast between July 4th, '51, and July 4tli, '52.
The Fourth in '51 was spent in jollification and
pleasure; eyerybody seemed to be happy, and he
that lav dead in '52 was one of the merry-makers.
I well remember at the dinner- table, when the wine
flowed freely, it Avas yoted that each man had to
giye a toast, sing a song, make a speech, or furnish
a bottle of wine. When poor Horton's time came
he arose and sung the "Star Spangled Banner" with
more feeling and patriotism than I eA^er have since
listened to. Twice had he to repeat it. Little did
the crowd that sat round the festiye board that day
think or imagine that on the next anniyersary one
of their number would lie bleeding in death under
the same roof where they sat enjoying themselyes,
cut down in the prime of his manhood, unnecessarily.
Such is life. The Fourth of July, 1852, closed with
sorrow oyer the little town of A¥eayeryille. Ear
different from its predecessor one year previous;
then it was all fun and good-nature. Eyery person
seemed to be hapx^y, and bent on enjoyment; but,
alas ! all was changed. Death in its most hideous
form in our midst; two of our citizens, a man and
woman, killed — unneccessarily, it was thought by
PROMINENT HUMBOLDTERS — A BLOODY TRAGEDY. 205
many. Deep and l)ilter feelings were expressed by
a large portion of tlie connnunity, but that love for
biAv and order wliieli ever prevails in the bosom of
Americans, outweighed the feeling of revenge, and
the foul deed passed otf in quietness. In two or
tliree years their graves were sluiced away by some
miners, and their coffins, with a few others, were
removed, by order of the County Judge, to the new
cemeterv west of the town, where thev now lie for-
gotten. All the principal actors in the tragedy
have long since passed to a higher tribunal than
that of the miners of Weaverville. Eor vears after
the tragedy the old settlers would often talk over
the bloodv deed, and look back Avith horror on the
act. Manv of the old settlers of Weaverville, if thev
read this chapter, will well remember the Fourth
of July, 1852, as being the bloodiest day in the
annals of tlie count v.
The following letter is from an old-timer. General
J. W. Denver, whom all pioneers, and particularly
"Trinitarians," will bear in kindlv rememberance.
The letter was written to The Humlwldt Mail^
in which these chapters were published in
serial form, and gives General Denver's version
of tlie election of a Senator in Trinitv countv
in '51, in which lie took a prominent ^lart, and to
206 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
which the author makes reference in Ohax3ter XYI.
It reads as follows:
Editor Mail: For sometime past I have been receiving your very
interesting paper, The Humboldt Mail. It is very interesting to me
as coming from a part of the country to which I have always been greatly
attached, particularly because of the many warm personal friends I had
there, whose kindness and friendship I have never forgotten. I have
been especially interested in reading the articles entitled " Pioneer Days."
In the last number received, of date February i8, 1888, I find one espe-
cially relating to myself, which is in the main correct, except in so far as
the writer relates that there was a doubt about my election to the Senate
in March, '52, a thing I never heard of before. Had I supposed at the
time there was any doubt whatever about my election, I certainly would
not have taken the seat. At the general election I had undoubtedly re-
ceived a plurality of the votes cast, but a fraudulent return, purporting to
be from Johnson's Bar on the Klamath, was made just large enough to
give Harper two votes more than I appeared to have. When the votes
were first announced by the Clerk of Klamath county, I was really glad
that I was beaten, for I had no desire to engage in political life; but when
I became satisfied of the fraud committed, I believed it was my duty as
a good citizen to expose it, which I did. In the course of the contest before
the Senate, Harper succeeded in raising a doubt in the minds of some of
the Senators as to my eligibility, alleging that I had not been long enough
in the county or in the district. Lyle united with Harper to dispose of my
case first, so as to get me out of the way, and then they proposed to set-
tle the question as between themselves. On ascertaining this state of
affairs, I advised my friends to settle the matter beyond all dispute by
declaring the seat vacant, and that I would return and make the race
over again. This was done, and 1 was re-elected.
The friends of Harper and Lyle, as I was informed at the time, united
and brought out Mr. Stuart as their candidate. I knew Mr. Stuart very
well, and had and still have a very high regard for him. He was an ex-
cellent young man, and so far as I have heard he has borne himself well
through life.
The writer of " Pioneer Days " does not give his name, but I think I
recognize him. If I am not mistaken, he is the same man who with my-
self made a very foolhardy trip from Uniontown (now Areata) to Weaver-
ville during the time of an Indian outbreak in the fall of '53. He was
PROMINENT HUMBOLDTERS — A BLOODY TRAGEDY. 207
a good, clever, honest and upright blacksmith, but a strong and decided
political pai'tisan. Personally, we were always good friends; but politi-
cally, of course, I always expected him to be found on the other side. He
is the one I heard had gone to Big Flat on the day of that special elec-
tion, with the result that is related in " Pioneer Days." If he is the same
man, please give him my compliments, and say to him that I feel greatly
complimented for the opinion he entertains of me, and that I yet hope
some day to be able to talk over pioneer times with him. It would
afford me very great pleasure to revisit the scenes of my early manhood m
Trinity and Humboldt, for I had so many warm friends there, from whom
I am always pleased to hear.
Inform any old friends of mine you may meet with that I have not for-
gotten them, and that everything coming from that part of the country is
of interest to me. With best wishes for the success of the people of
Humboldt and Trinity counties, I am. Yours Respectfully,
J. W. Denver.
Washington, D. C, March i, 1888.
208 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXI.
The Last Victi^i of Judge Lynch.
A murder.— Mike Grant's trial before Judge Lynch, and subsequent ex-
ecution.— Lack of faith in the machinery of the law.— Judge Lynch's
last victim in Trinity county. — Civilizing effect of women and
children.— The first children in Weaverville.— An unsuccessful
Water Company.
In the fall of '52 a Spanish i^ack train was cross-
ing Brown's Mountain Avith a load of goods for
WeaTerville, and when near the summit, on the
AVeaverville side of the mountain, one of the packers
discovered the dead body of a man sitting against a
big pine tree, and on examining it he found a bullet-
hole though the body. Coming to WeaverYille he
reported the facts, and a conipan}' of men started
out after the body, and found it as described by the
Spaniard. They recognized it as that of a man
named Holt, who had left town the day before. He
had considerable money on his person when leav-
ing Weaverville, but on examination it was found
that the bodv had been robbed of what valuables he
may have possessed at the time of the murder. There
was considerable excitement over the murder, and
suspicion pointed to a man named Mike Grant, who
THE LAST VICTIM OF JUDGE LYNCH. 209
was considered a suspicions character. He worked
sometimes in what was called "OUT Chap Ilestanrant."
(A man came to Weave rville by the name of Chap-
man, and started a restaurant. He was a middle-aged
man — at that time a man over thirty years of age
was called an old man — so the boys dubbed his res-
taurant, "Old Chap Kestaurant," and it kept that
name). Gi-ant sometimes worked for "Old Chap.*"
He was very f(md of limiting and practicing at a
mark with his rifle. Suspicion fell on him, for he
was seen leaving town with Holt, or shortly after.
He, of course, pleaded innocent, and could explain
where he was on that day. He admitted being on
the trail with Holt, but had parted from him at the
foot of Brown's Mountain, and had been hunting all
day on the mountain. He w as arrested by order of
Judge Lynch, and taken to the place Avhere he said
he parted with Holt on the day the murder was
committed. When they arrived at the place, he re-
fused to show them his tracks, or make any expla-
nation that was satisfactory to them. T. M. Brown,
our present Sherifi", was herding mules on Brown's
Mountain near the j)lace where the murder was
committed, and T. M. Brown saw nor heard nothing
of him.
Things began to look rather dark for Mike Grant,
and he Avas taken back to town and closely confined.
At a meeting of the miners and others, it was re-
solved to give him a trial before Judge Lynch's
court for murder. The killing of a man in an affray
-10 PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
in those days was not looked upon as a very serious
affair; the killing of a man for the purpose of
robbery was something the early Californians
would not tolerate or forgive, but would hunt the
perpetrator to the uttermost, and, when found guilty,
no mercy was sliOAvn him. In the case of Grant, a
jury of twelve was summoned. Captain J. G. Mes-
sic, afterward Slieriff of Trinity county, and known
to many of the old settlers of Humboldt county, was
chosen Marshal for the occasion. The jury was
summoned by the Marshal with fairness. The
Judge appointed to try the case I have forgotten.
Counsel was allowed the jjrisoner, and everything
was conducted in an orderly manner. The whole
evidence was circumstantial, but everything pointed
to his guilt. The bullet taken out of the body fitted
the rifle wiiich Grant had with him that day; Grant
was seen with Holt shortlv before the body was
found by the Spaniard; Holt's clothes were burnt
by the x>OAvder, etc. It was supposed that they both
traveled up Brown's Mountain together, and, when
near the top, sat down to rest, as the day was warm,
and that Grant drew his gun and shot him for the
purpose of robbing him, and did so, as no money or
valuables were found on the body.
Grant had his trial, and thejur}' found him guilty
of murder. He was sentenced to be hanged, and if
I remember correctly he was given two days be-
tween the sentence and his execution. When the
time came there was s.ome talk of a rescue, but the
THE LAST VICTIM OF JUDGE LYNCH. 211
Marshal had a ^wsse of some thirty men picked and
Avell armed, who guarded the prisoner to the fatal
tree. I believe our present Sheriff was one of them.
He was strung up to the same tree that Seymour
was partly hung on, but did not get oflt' as well as
Seymour did. Sheriff Dixon, the lawful Sheriff of
the county, was in AVeaverville at the time, but such
was the force of public opinion that he was power-
less to act. Peoj)le placed very little reliance in the
civil law. The countv government Avas vet in its
infancy, ^o jails to safely keep prisoners in, no
court-house to trv them in, and the civil law itself
held in contempt by many. Such was the state of
affairs when Grant was hanged. I believe he was
the last victim of Judge Lvnch in Trinitv countv.
There were other executions, but they were done by
the laws of the land. There were some doubts in
the minds of a few Avhether Grant was guilty of the
crime for which he x^aid the penalty with his life.
The better class of society were beginning to wish
for a different state of society. Lynch law, in their
opinion, ought to be done away with. It had ac-
complished its mission, as far as Trinity county
was concerned, and men as a general thing Avanted
no more of it.
The great civilizing influence of women and
children was beginning to be felt. When I left for
home in the spring of '52 there Avas but one family
of children in or about Weaverville; that was old
Mr. Lindsay and his Avife, for many years residents
212 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
of Areata. There wen^ three ehildren of them:
William, Joshua and Sarah Jane, now tlie wife of
Miller Preston of Areata, and Avidow of John Pres-
ton of the same place. They were the only ehildren
we had in the burg at that time. I believe they
moved to Uniontown, now Areata, in '52.
In the summer of '52 a company was formed to
bring water, on a large scale, into Weaver basin.
The principal incorporators were Humboldt men,
and, as far as I can remember, their names were W.
C. Young, Garland, John E. Wyman, Henry Wy-
man, Ben AVyman and Xixon. They located
Stuart's Fork, intending to bring it a distance of
forty miles. It was a big undertaking. The capi-
tal stock, if I remember correctly, was one hun-
dred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The survey
was made, and the stock put on the market. Young
seemed to be the princij)al manager, and Garland
next. Men were set at work, and large contracts
let for provisions and tools. My partner, James
Hyde, furnished them with three hundred j)icks,
or had the contract for that number. Everything
was to be on a grand scale. A large number of
men were set at work at one hundred dollars per
month and found. Many of the business men of
Weaverville took stock ni the enterprise, and others
let the concern have money and goods to large
amounts.
Things went on well for a while, until at last
money became scarce with the managers, and Young
THE I:aST victim OF JUDGE LYNCH- 218
Avcni below to raise a large amount, but failed to do
j^o. Tlie Avinter came on very severe; the price of
provisions went uj) enormously. The snow on the
mountain where the men were at work was from
live to ten feet deep, and the men had to quit work
and come to town. All operations ceased, and the
work came to a standstill until the next sx)ring-. In
tlie meantime Young and Garland were below trying
to "ct funds. Thev would send word to Weaverville
that everything was going on well Avith them, nnd
that in a short time they would be back with plenty
of money, pay their debts and resume Avork on the
ditcli. The spring came, and the summer, but no
funds. In the meantime everybodv that had anv-
thing to do Avith it became disgusted. The Wy-
mans left for Uniontown, losing cAerything they
put into the enterprise, besides their time. Young
and Garland bA' common consent were voted
'^ bilks." The thing fell through, and the ditch was
ncAcr completed. Had they obtained sufficient
funds to have completed the ditch, it Avould haAC been
splendid property. Judge Wyman years afterAvards
informed me that if Young and Garland had acted
honestlv and fairh' tlie Avork could haAc been
finished, and it Avould have made them all AvealtliA^
They were both Avild speculators. In '57 another
company Avas organized, and the route re-surAcyed,
and an effort made to raise funds to bring in the
Avater and finish the ditch, but it proved a failure.
Those AA^io got bit in the Young ditch Avere not
214 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
willing to take hold again; consequently, after three
thousand dollars had been expended by eight of us,
who were elected directors, the scheme failed, and
the directors had to go down in their own pockets
to foot the bills. That ended the big ditch. No
more large mining operations were undertaken for
some time. Two had proven failures — the Arkan-
saw dam and the canal or ditch of Young. Both
would have proven successes had they been in the
hands of competent men, and managed by those who
understood their business.
HOUSEKEEPING EXPERIENCES. 215
CHAPTER XXII.
Housekeeping Experiences.
(leneral Denver. — Housekeeping in Weaverville. — The noble pioneer
women.
I see a, letter from General J. W. Denver in reply
to some of my assertions in "Pioneer Days." I am
glad I made them, as it has been the means of
l^ringing him out of his shell. I would sooner take
a little seolding- than not to hear from him at all, as
for twenty years he has kept himself hidden from
many of his old friends in Northern California. Old
friend, you are not forgotten, I can assure you.
There are man}' of us old gray-headed pioneers
yet left who look back with pleasure to being
acquainted with you, and of having your friendship
and esteem. Four or five old gray-beards were
standing on the corner of one of our streets dis-
cussing old times the morning after your letter was
published, when one of them laughingly remarked,
"I wonder if the General remembers his trip in
'53 from Eureka to Uniontown in a small boat,
with several ladies on boardr' He would not
explain himself, so we were in the dark about that
216 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
trip. The General in liis letter says he knows noth-
ing of the Indian Creek returns, it being the first
time he ever heard of it. I believe he speaks cor-
rectly. If there was anything wrong about them,
I am sure he knew nothing of it, nor did I ever
hear that lie had anything to do with the transac-
tion whatever. So far as niv inemorv serves me,
he was not in the countv the dav of election; but
I think the (xeneral was misinformed concerning
the bringing out of R. CI. Stuart as a candidate for
the Senate. IN^either John A. Lyle or John H.
Harper had anything to do with it. As I remarked
before, his name was suggested by myself at a
jneeting of a few Whigs, held in a room in the Mis-
souri Hotel, on J Street, Sacramento City. There
Avere present at the time ¥. S. McKenzie and Mr.
McMillan, the two Kepresentatives to the Legisla-
ture from Trinitv, both Wliias. Neither John A.
Lyle or John H. Harper were present at that meet-
ing. Old friend, you Avere about right in your
surmises. You and I did take a very foolhardy trip
in the Indian outbreak in the fall of '53 from Union-
town to Weaverville. I had more curiosity then
than now. In a short time I will give my recollec-
tions of that trip in ^'Pioneer Days," so far as I
can remember the circumstances.
Well, to come back to Weaverville, after my
digression: When we arrived in town we brought
the largest delegation of ladies that had yet arrived
at one time to become permanent settlers. They
HOUSEKEEPING EXPERIENCES 217
were Mrs. Levi Keynolds, ]\Irs. Thomas Carr and
Mrs. Joliii Oair. The streets were full of j)eople,
all men, anxious to get a look at the new arrivals.
Mrs. Reynolds was to go to Oregon Gulch, six
miles from AVeaverville, and the two Mi's. Carr
were to become residents of Weaverville for manv
vears. The ladies Avho rode cavalier stvle were
somewhat backward about riding into town in that
stvle, but tliev were in for it. The accommodations
at the hotels were limited, tlie United States Hotel
had but one private room and the American Hotel
but one room. Tlie sleeping apartments of the
hotels were generally large rooms, or corrals as they
were sometimes called, where there were rows of
cots placed for beds, and sometimes there would be
from twenty to fifty men occupying the same room.
As for private rooms, they Avere a luxury tliat Avas
seldom aspired to by the common individual.
We got housed pretty well. Before I started
home in the spring 1 gave orders to my friend Cap-
tain Cuinmings to have a house built for me dur-
ing the summer, and showed him where to build it;
but he neglected it until some fellow jumped the
ground, and left me minus a lot and minus a house.
^Vt that time boarding at a hotel was very expen-
sive — sixteen dollars a week — and as we had six in
the family it was drawing quite heavily on my
funds, so we thought we had better get to house-
keeping as soon as possible. No such things {?s
dwelling-houses were to rent; there were none in
218 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ilie place; but Oomstock & Martin had a sort of
lionse where they sometimes stored their barley,
and they told me we could use that until I could
build a house. I, like a good husband, took my
wife to view the premises. We found it a house
about twelve by sixteen feet, Avith neither doors,
windows or floor; nothing but posts x^ut into the
ground and shakes nailed on to them, ^ot a very
imposing liouse, some of our native daughters will
say, to bring a bride to. We came to the conclusion
that we would move in and go to liouskeej)ing.
Our furniture was on a par w^ith the house; our
dining-table was made by driving stakes down in
the floor and nailing poles on them to receive the
top, which was composed of shakes nailed from pole
to pole. I do not mean the North or South Pole, I
mean the poles we used for that table. Our bed-
room sets were similar to our table, and made of the
same material; and our dining-room chairs were
nail-kegs or dry-goods boxes; our china and crock-
ery-ware was made in a tinsmith slioj); our cooking-
stove a mud firej)lace. We took four or five shakes
ofl" the side of our castle and nailed some white
domestic cotton over it for a window, and we hung
a blanket over our door.
Such was our first beginning at housekeej)ing in
California, and it was tlie experience of thousands
of others. There is a great deal said and written
about the early pioneer fathers of California — and
they deserve all that is said about them — but verv
HOUSEKEEPING EXPERIENCES. 219
little is said about the pioneer mothers of California;
they deserve to share somewhat of the glory of
being pioneers of this great State. Many of the
women of the early days were women who had
been brought up in luxury, refinement and com-
fort, in their homes back in the older States. They
voluntarily left their homes Avith the men of their
choice, leaving fathers and mothers, brothers and
sisters, and everything held dear to the feminine
heart, braving the dangers of the plains and the
ocean, and the discomforts of California life. Such
were the early mothers of California. Native sons
and daughters, to those brave and fearless early
pioneer women do you owe everything you now
possess that- is worthy to be called civilization.
Your churches, your school-houses where you re-
ceived your moral training, your observance of
God's holy day, the Sunday-school, and everj^thing
that goes to elevate our race, were gifts of your
pioneer mothers, who brought them from their early
homes, and sj)read and established them here in
this our God-favored land. Therefore, when the
anniA ersary of your State's natal-day rolls round
from A ear to a ear, and a ou, native sons and dauo'h-
ters, meet together in joy, thanksgiA'ing and merry-
making, forget not your pioneer mothers; but look
back with pride and say, " I, too, am the child of a
pioneer mother as Avell as of a pioneer father." And
when time shall have accomplished its Avork, and
they be laid in the silent graA e, cherish their mem-
220 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA .
ory. They in tlicir day accomplished a good work,
and yon are receivino- the benefits of their toil.
Would that some gifted pen could do them justice.
Well, after getting to housekeej)ing, the next
thing was to get a house built, with some of the
comforts of life attached to it. I started in to build,
intending to build a two-story house, with a dwell-
ing upstairs and a shop below. My lot was in the
center of the town, and in a good locality for busi-
ness. All sorts of building material was very high;
lumber was wortli ten cents per foot, and scarce at
that; the winter was fast coming on; shakes were
worth fifty dollars per thousand and nails fifty cents
per pound; flour, after the big fire in Sacramento,
look a rise and went up to sixty cents per pound;
the principal flour in the State was stored in Sacra-
mento City, that being the principal point for
furnishing the miners with their supplies. A very
large amount was destroyed by tlie fire, and the
speculators of San Francisco made a " corner," and
ran prices up to fabulous figures. There was no
flour then produced in the State, our supplies com-
ing around Cape Horn and from Chile. Xew stock
could not be had for four or five months, so they
had a good time of it, and made much money out of
their sj)eculation. I hurried up the building as fast
as possible, as it was getting late in the season and
frequently raining. In the meantime I made a con-
tract with John E. Chellis, afterwards Lieutenant-
Governor of the State, to burn me eight hundred
HOUSEKEEPING EXPERIENCES. 221
barrels of charcoal at one dollar per barrel. He
commenced chopping the wood for the coal, but,
the rain coming on, he had to quit work; that left
me minus the coal, and I got none burnt by Gover-
nor Chellis before the winter set in. We got moved
into our house, and it was well we did, for when
the storm set in it came on with a vengeance. For
forty-two days in succession it either rained or
snowed. At one time the snow in the streets of
Weaverville was four or five feet deep.
222 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
CHAPTER XXIIL
Almost a Famine.
The first ball in Weaverville; ten dollars per ticket.— Houses crushed
by snow; Senator John P. Jones buried under one of them;
his clever trick.
Here we were in a fix; snowed in the Weaverville
basin with no xn'o visions to amount to anything on
hand, and all communication cut off with the out-
side world. The snow on the Trinity Mountain
was said to be twenty feet deep. The last sack of
flour for sale in Weaverville I purchased from
Oody & Harrington, paying them sixty-two dollars
and fifty cents for a fifty-pound sack. I could not
have got it at all except on account of having two
women in the family. McKenzie & Winston, the
butchers, had a few very lean beef cattle on hand
and these they retailed out at sixty cents per pound,
and, being friends of mine, they let me have a
whole quarter of beef. It was the blackest beef
that ever came under my observation. Jim Howe
had raised some small potatoes the summer previ-
ous. He tried to raise them without irrigation, so
they were very small. I purchased fifty-pounds of
ALMOST A FAMINE. 223
til em for twenty-five dollars. As luck would have
it, Comstock & Martin, the livery-stable keepers,
had laid in their winter supply of barley, conse-
quently there was plenty of barley in town, and
that beat nothing by a long way. I bought three
sacks of that commodity from them, paying them
forty cents a pound for it, and I bought three coffee-
mills to grind it in. My family was large — five men
and two women. We set to work on the coffee-
mills, grinding fiour out of tlie barley. We punched
lioles in the bottom of a gold-pan for a sieve. We
had barley bread, barley mush, and barley pan-
cakes, night, noon and morning, for about six
weeks. No butter, no sugar, a little molasses, no
coffee; hoAvever, we made "coffee" out of burnt
barley; very little tea, no beans, and very little of
anything else in the shape of provisions. I^early
ever}^ X^^i'^^^i lived on barley straight. The first
salutation when two fellows met would be, " Hello,
Tom," or " Jack," " how is the barley holding outi"
" I have some, how is vours'?" "O, bullv!" One
of the hotels held out during the time. They
charged two dollars for each meal. A man stood
at the dining-room door, and you had to pay your
two dollars before entering that dining-room, and
then you had to take chances on what you got to
eat. The 7ncnu was not very choice, but you had
to come down with your cash before vou entered.
Grub was grub that winter in Weaverville, yet
ever}^ person seemed happy and joA ial. Wood, too,
224 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
became scarce, the depth of the snow keeping peo-
ple from getting around to get it. The only thing
with which we were well stocked Avere whisky and
cards. During the winter reports came into town
that tliere was a pack-train loaded with flour and
provisions at Lewiston, eight or ten miles distant
from Weaverville, on the Trinity River. A crowd
turned out and broke the trail with shovels to gel
into town, but after all their work, when tliey got
the trail open over the mountain, they found the
train was loaded with toin-iron and wliisky; a few
sacks of beans were all the eatables that were found
on the train. The boys got the beans to town, and
they were retailed at one dollar j)er pound, and no
man could get over ten pounds for love or money.
The previous winter was so open that no person
made any preparation for a hard one, and it came
and caught us naj)ping; yet everybody seemed to be
hapj)y. No mining was done while the snow lay so
deep on the ground, but when the spring opened
and the snow commenced to go off, there was
plenty of water everywhere, and the miners reaped
a rich harvest.
I well remember the first ball given in Weaver-
ville. It was on the night of December 24, 1852, and
was given at the Independent Hotel. Tickets were
ten dollars each. There was a sufficient number of
ladies in town to make up two sets. It was con-
sidered a grand affair — something new for that burg.
Everybody enjoyed himself hugely, and more boiled
ALMOST A FAMINE. 225
sliirts were worn that night than ever before on
one occasion at Weaveryille. One felloAv would
buy a " rig;" he woukl dance a while in it and then
lend it to some other fellow for a while, who would
use it for an hour or so and then pass it around,
and in that way tlie " store clothes " were kept well
occupied. Boots were used in the same way. Tlie
ball passed oif in fine style, and everybody Avas well
j)leased. The only trouble Avas that the boys did
not get dancing enough. On New Year's night,
nothing would do but that we must have a ball at
m V house. We got " Black Dave " for a musician,
and a fellow by the name of John Oody to call the
sets. The room was not large; they could dance
two sets with a little crowding. When the time
for refreslmients came on, all we could oiler to our
guests was barley bread and barlev coifee. I be-
lieve Mrs. Oarr had a couple of apple ^ies made out
of dried apples to offer to the ladies. Such was the
first private dance held in Weaverville. There
were j)resent at that private party four ladies, now
residents of Eureka, namely: Mrs. Henrietta
Ewing, Mrs. Thomas Oarr, Mrs. A. Monroe (then
Miss Albee) and Mrs. John Carr.
Some of ilie gentlemen who asseml^led that New
Year's night, '53, to enjoy themselves under "Black
DaA^e's fiddling, have since become leading men of
the nation. Amongst them were John P. Jones,
Senator from the State of Nevada, then a young,
ru.ddy-faced boy; J. 0. Burch, afterwards a member
226 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
of Congress; E. S. McKenzie, one of tlie State Prison
Directors of California, and afterwards an olRcer of
the rebel army, killed wliile figliting Siegel in Mis-
souri in '62; Ed. Rowe, Dei)iity State Treasurer
when J. Keely Johnson wasCTOvernor of California;
Will Lowe, afterwards Sheriff of the county and
another rebel officer during our late unpleasantness.
These were a few of the boys who partook of our
hospitality and barley cakes at the first private j)iirty
given in Trinity county.
The houses of that day were built in a hurry and
not very strongly put together, and, when the heavy
snow came on, the roofs had to be shoveled or
scrajied oif. Frequently, if not cleaned otf, the
weight of snow would break them down. Kearly
everybody would be at work cleaning the snoAV as
soon as tlie rafters showed any signs of weakening,
Avhich they would do by bending in the center. A
merchant by the name of Earewell had a stock of
goods on the opposite side of the street from my
place of business. He went below before the storm
commenced for his winter stock of goods and left
John P. Jones in charge as clerk and bookkeej)er.
John P. never liked manual labor very well, and he
failed to keep tlie snow off the roof of the store.
There was getting to be a big load on it, and the
rafters showed all signs of " caving," and the neigh-
bors advised him to use a little elbow-grease and
clean the building; but he declined, saying he did
not hire to Earewell to shovel snow, and he would
ALMOST A FAMINE. 227
be d — d if he would do it. Saturday iiio'lit Jolin P.
and some of his chums sat up j)vetty late playing
cards in tlie store, and the snow was coming down
with a vengeance, l^ext morning being Sunday
John P. was late about getting up. About 9 I was
standing in my door, when I heard a cracking across
the street, and, on looking over where the noise
came from, I saw tliat the Farewell store had at last
succumbed to the snow, and John P. was under the
ruins. In a few momemts there was a crowd
gathered. Some thought Jones was surely crushed
to death, and tlie}' kept constantl}' calling him, but
got no response. Shovels Avere brought and used
freely, in shoveling the snow off the ruins and clear-
ing off the debris to get at Jones' bod}'; yet no signs
of Jones until the boys had the debris cleared up to
where the counter stood, and had cleared away the
snow and shakes around it; there under the counter
lay the embryo U. S. Senator, rolled up in his
blankets, and taking it as easy as a clam at high
tide. The boys commenced cursing him for not
answering when called, and thus i)utting them out
of suspense as to whether he was hurt or not. Jones
rej)lied, "I am too smart for that; look at all that
snow vou luive shoveled oif tliose iioods, and the
stuff you have cleared up forme; if I had answered
you and let you know that I was not hurt, you
would not have dug me outof the snow, and then I
would have had all the work to do myself." Jones
got some "tall cursing." Farewell was minus his
228 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
storehouse, beside the loss of and damage to his
goods. If I remember rightly, when Earewell came
back he was so disgusted tliat he sold out what
goods he had left, and bade good-bye to Weaver-
ville forever. Not so Avith John P.; he remained
in town and went to clerking for Dick Clifford.
In the course of time the snow began to disap-
j)ear, the trains began to come into town over the
mountains, provisions got plentiful, the miners had
plenty of water, and everything was again flourish-
ing. The winter of '52 and '53 was a hard one, and
had it not been for Oomstock & Martin's barley, I
do not know what would have become of the peo-
ple. Many would have suffered and starved. There
were not less than eight hundred souls in Weaver-
ville basin when the storm set in. Oomstock &
Martin were selling barley at forty cents per pound
before the scarcity, and be it said to their credit,
they never raised one cent on the price, nor did
they ever refuse a man credit for barley because he
had no money. They could have had a very high
price for it if they had demanded it. There was
very little suffering, and everybody felt well and
happy. All knew that the state of affairs could not
last long, and the j)rospect ahead was good.
POLITICS, MURDER AND FIRE. 229
CHAPTe'r XXIV.
Politics, Murder and Fire.
The Presidential election of '52. — J. P. Albee and family. — The house of
Carr, Cummings 6^ George. — Fire.— Noble generosity. — Rebuilding.
In November, '52, the Presidential election took
j)lace, Scott and Graham being the Whig candi-
dates — the last nominations *the Whigs ever made.
Pierce and King were the Democratic nominees.
The Whigs of AVeaverville bought a large flag, and
inscribed thereon, "Scott and Graham," in large
letters, and raised a fine pole. The Democrats
bought a large flag, with a large golden star in the
center of the field. There was a big pine tree at
the upper end of the town. The Democrats trim-
med their tree of its limbs, rove halyards in the top,
and threw their banner to the breeze. Church &
Mix were keejiing store then in a log-house in
WeaYerville, and the Democratic tree or flag-j^ole
was in front of their store. Church was a Whig
and Mix was a Democrat. They had a sign out
which read: "Church & Mix, Provisions and
Liquors." The word " provisions " was under
Church's name and " liquors " under Mix's. When
230 PIONEER DAYS IX CALIFORNIA-
tliey were trimming tlie tree a limb fell on the sign
cutting it squarely in two, leaving the name of
Ohurcli standing, witli " x^rovisions " under it, and
taking oif Mix and "liquors." The Whigs used to
poke fun at Mix, saying the Democratic portion of
the firm liad fallen. " Church and provisions "
politics ran high in Weaverville. The election
came on, and everybody voted. There were no
registry laws then in California, and the Democrats
" got away Avith " the Whigs in Weaverville as well
as the balance of the United States. Everything
passed ofi* quietly — not one fight on election day.
The largest vote ever polled in Weaverville was
polled at that election — if I remember correctly,
nearly nine hundred votes. The San Erancisco
papers, in commenting on the election, remarked on
the good morals of the American electors, saying
that the election passed off at Weaverville, Trinity
county, without one single fight, although Weaver-
ville was the wickedest place in California. We
Weaverites did not believe the insinuation against
our morals and good standing, and considered it a
slander on our peaceful burg.
I would not be doing justice if I did not lionor-
ablv mention tlie name of one of AVeaverville's
pioneer mothers who is now a resident of Eureka
— Mrs. Albee, wife of J. P. Albee, who was cruelly
murdered by the Indians in November, '62, on Red-
wood Creek, in this county. In the early pari of
the summer of '52, J. P. Albee and an old gentle-
POLITICS, MURDER AND FIRE. 231
man by the name of Hovey brought some milch
cows to Weaverville to furnish the town with milk.
They started a restaurant in connection with their
milk business, which was afterwards turned into
the St. Charles Hotel, one of the leading hotels of
WeaYerville. Albee's family came to Weaverville
about October, '52. His was the largest family of
children that had yet made their appearance in
town. His oldest child, now Mrs. Monroe of this
city, was then a girl of twelve or thirteen years of
age. She was considered quite a young lady for
those days. They stayed in town during the hard
winter, and in the summer of '53 removed to Hum-
boldt countv, another old resident of Humboldt ac-
companying them over the mountains — Peter
Houck of Eel River Yalley. They settled on
Salmon Creek, and in ]May, '56, removed to Red-
wood. In '62, during the Indian war, Mr. Albee
moved his family to Areata for protection against
the savages who were then on the war-path. But
he continued to go back and forth to his ranch,
notwithstanding the remonstrances of his family
and friends. J. P. Albee was a man who was kind
and just in his dealings, always taking the part of
the weak against the strong, and was the friend of
the Indians when the white men abused them. He
put confidence in them and unwisely trusted them
too far, and they cruelly repaid him by taking his
life. His remains were discovered near his house
on his ranch, and buried by the soldiers who were
232 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
then in tlie field. By his death Mrs. Albee was left
with five small children to j^rovide for, with very
little means, the Indians having destroyed his prop-
erty and run off much of his stock. Here commenced
a heroic struggle for the brave mother to support,
maintain and educate her family, which she nobly
accomplished. The old lady has now eight children,
twenty-six grand-children and six great-grand-
children, all living, making forty of her direct de-
scendants now living in California, the most of
them in Humboldt county. Our tardy Govern-
ment some years since passed an indemnity bill
reimbursing those persons who were losers by the
Indian wars and dej)redations in Northern Cali-
fornia, and I believe she was voted sixteen thous-
and dollars for her losses, but she has not yet
received one cent. I suppose red-tapeism will keep
the old lady out of it while slie lives, and it may
come when it is too late to do her any good.
But let us get back to Weaverville. We were
beginning to get everything in running order —
after the hard winter everything was flourishing.
I found that the blacksmith shop under the dwell-
ing-house would not answer very well, as the fine
dust from the shop would go all over, and made our
rooms upstairs very uncomfortable to live in. I
made up my mind to turn the lower part into a
store, and build a shoj) on a vacant lot next the
store. Myself, with two others, went into the
mercantile business under the firm name of Carr,
POLITICE, MURDER AND FIRE. 23o
Cuininings & George. John George had a pack-
train of twenty-four iniile.s wliicL lie put into the
concern. A few days after tlie j^artnership was
formed, I had an offer for my house and lot of three
thousand fiye hundred dollars by Madam Bachelor,
to fit it up for a gambling-house. I refused it; got a
train-load of goods in, and opened out business with
good prospects, and in less than one week, while at
dinner one day, an alarm of fire was giyen. Weayer-
yille was about to receiye its first baptism of the
fiery element. On running downstairs I found the
American Hotel all in flames. It was the next
building to mine, and caught on the side next to our
store and dwelling-house. To try to put it out was
all in yain. The only thing to be done was to saye
what few goods we could before the fire droye us
out. I had, before leaying San Erancisco in the
fall j)reyious, bought some furniture and a stoye —
I belieye the first in Weayeryille. It was all up-
stairs, together with my wife's gold watch and
clothing. We sayed yery little of it. We got some
of the goods out of the store before the fire droye us
out. The fire swept up the main street on the east
side, clearing eyerything before it. The houses
were built of pine shakes and lined Ayitli cotton.
When the immense blaze would strike the next
house in its course up the street it would seem to
melt out of existence in a moment. It ran up Main
street to Court street, and up Court street as far as
there was anything to burn. Crossing Court street
234 PIOXEER DAYS IX CALIFORNIA-
it burned up and down tlie street, until stox^ping at
the United States Hotel, kept by Jose])li EAving and
wife, where by superhuman exertions of the people
it was checked. Very fcAv goods were saved. The
time from the first alarm until tlie tire was arrested
was but twenty-eight minutes. It being noon wlien
the fire commenced, there were very few persons in
town — the miners were all at work, the most of
them sDme distance from the town; but they got
there as soon as possible and did good work. There
was no water or anything to work with. P.
M. Eder hid the day before arrived in town
with a large stock of goods — ninety mule loads.
They were put in the American Hotel for storage
until he could find or build a store. That was the
building where the fire started. He never saved
one dollar's worth of tlie goods. Nearly every
merchant of the town lost heavily. To me it was
the first set back, and I lost it all in a few mo-
ment's time. Six thousand dollars would not cover
my personal loss. When the first fire started Mrs.
Graham, the landladv of the American Hotel, was
sick. Her husband went to her room and carried
her out the back door and left her but a short dis-
tance from the building. As the fire progressed the
heat became so great where she lay that it was set-
'V,
ting her clothing on fire. Mrs. Carr, seeing the
danger she was in, at great risk to herself ran in
and carried the sick woman in her arms to a safe
place. Before she could reach a place of safet}" our
POLITICS^ MURDER AND FIRE. 235
own house was in flaines. She saved nothing of
her own clothing, watch and av hat je^v elry she had
— all went, and all that Avas left to her was the
clothing on lier back. The fire left us naked. Be-
fore the fire was yet out one of my partners —
Cmnniings — started for tlie mill, two miles below
town, and ordered a bill of lumber to rebuild. He
was first on liand and got liis lumber. Tlie same
evening a load arrived on the ground, and we had
to put the fire out on the burnt sills in order to lay
the new ones.
In the meantime an express messenger was dis-
patched to Shasta with the new^s of the fire. Sliasta
was then a business place. It was the head of
wagon navigation. There were several large whole-
sale houses that furnished the principal goods for
all the northern mines. From one of these houses
we purchased our goods — the firm of Todd & Jones.
They were doing a large business in Shasta. As
soon as they heard of the fire they immediately
sent one of their clerks — Grant I. Taggart — oygy to
Weaverville to see if we wanted any helj) to re-
build, and if so to draw on them for the amount
needed. Grant I. Taggart has since been elected
Clerk of the Suj)reme Court, and is now in the real
estate business in Oakland.
The next day after the fire, when Taggart arrived
in Weaverville, we had the floor laid for our store,
and in six days after the fire the store w^as com-
plete — counter, shelves and everything ready for
236 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFOENIA.
business The next day after the fire I was at work
sharpening picks, and doing business in that line as
if nothing had happened. In a few days our train
arrived Avith a load of goods. Todd & Jones hired
anotlier train, loaded it with goods, and sent it on.
We knew nothing of it until it arrived in AYeaver-
ville, consigned to Carr, Cunimings & George, with
the freight all paid. Freight in those days was no
small item in the cost of the goods. Ten cents per
pound was the going rate tliat spring from Shasta
to Weaverville. Inside of ten days we were in full
blast, as if nothing had happened.
POLITICS AND WAR. 237
CHAPTER XXV.
Politics and War.
Comstock and Martin. — The old pine stump. — A street battle. — Pierce,
Church dr^ Company. — The Home Guards. — Encampment at Red
Bhiff; hungry soldiers. — A Masonic lodge organized; its officers. —
The Odd Fellows. — First school in Weaverville.
After the fire we were again left houseless. Coin-
stock & Martin again came to our rescue, their place
of business having escaped the fire. They had a
story-and-a-half house, the lower floor of which was
used as an oflice and storeroom for grain, and the
upper part was partly used as an office for the big
ditch company, occupied by Messrs. Young, Gar-
land & Wjinan. They kindly offered us the front
room upstairs until we could get a house built to
live in, which we occupied.
A history of the early days of Weaverville would
not be complete without sometliing said about the
firm of Comstock & Martin. Israel Comstock and
John Martin were amongst the first settlers of
Weaverville. I believe they were there in '50; at
least, I found them mining there when I arrived in
Eebruary, '51. Israel Comstock was a genuine
specimen of the tall Yankee Democrat. Kearly
238 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
seven feet in liiglit, and as good-natured as he Avas
big. The only way you couhl get him angry was to
ask him how tall he was, or to say anything about
his hight to him. He was a dyed-in-the-wool
Democrat, and close to their corral gate was a big
pine stumi), which the boys used to call "the
Democratic stump." For six months before the
election the stump would be occupied by Israel and
the candidates discussing their chances for a nomi-
nation. The Whigs used to say if that old pine
stump could talk and tell all the rascality and jobs
put up around it, there would be some very hard
yarns given to the political history of Trinity
county. Oomstock remained a genuine Democrat.
There was an establishment in the upper end of
town called the Spanish corral. It was not strictly
a very moral place; a sort of a dance-house where,
when each set was over, they all promenaded to the
bar for refreshments. The inmates, or female por-
tion, were generally Ohilanos, Kanackas and Mexi-
cans. Some of the women got dissatisfied and
wanted to leave the town, but the proprietors did
not want them to leave. The women made a pri-
vate arrangement with Tom Dawson and John
Maloy, two packers, to take them to Shasta, and
they tried to get them away without the keeper's
knowledge, but he discovered the plot. The
women and packers started off, but, when they got
about the middle of the main street, there com-
menced a perfect fusilade, or miniature battle, be-
POLITICS AND WAR. 239
tween the parties. There must have been fifty or
sixty shots fired in the street, with a perfect Babel
of voices, and no choice language used. On that
occasion we were sleeping upstairs, and, when
they had fought doAvn the street to near the livery-
stable building where we were sleeping, the bullets
commenced cracking against the house pretty
lively. My wife was somewhat alarmed, as the
liouse was made of shakes and not bullet-proof by
any means. We lay down on the floor until the
fight got past the liouse, and then the danger was
over. 1 expected to see at least a half-dozen funer-
als next day, but, to my surprise, there were no j)er-
sons hurt on either side. It was a beautiful moon-
light night, and Iioav so much shooting could be
done without somebody getting hurt was surprising
to me.
Until the firing on Eort Sumter, the firm of
Comstock & Martin united in business with them
John E. Church and Jesse Pierce, and foriued one
of the largest business houses in Northern California,
under the name of Pierce, Church & Co., doing a
large forwarding and mercantile business. Pierce
went to San Francisco, Comstock to Red Bluff, aud
Church & Martin remained in Weaverville to at-
tend to the business there. Old Israel was at Red
Bluff attending to the forwarding, as that place was
the head of water navigation, and all goods going
north had to be re-shipped either on wagons or by
pack mules to their destination.
240 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
I well reineuiber, in the summer of '63, during
the civil war, there were two companies of home
guards organized in Trinity county, the Douglass
City Rifles and Halleck Rifles. I belonged to the
Douglass City Rifles — both companies belonged to
the 5th Brigade. We were ordered to Red Bluif
for encampment and drill, a distance of about
ninety miles, for ten days' service. The camp was
located on a creek about two and one half miles
below Red Bluff, where we played soldier. The
last day of the encampment we were ordered to
strike tents and march for Red Bluff, and, Avhen
the brigade arrived at the town, we were marched
and counter-marched and drilled for the space of
three or four hours, for the gratification of the
people of that town and General John Bid well, the
commanding ofiicer, in particular. When the
parade was dismissed there were no prej)arations
made to feed or shelter the troops. The boys felt
pretty hungry and mad about that time, and made
application to General Bidwell, but he told them he
could do nothing for them. Old Israel Comstock
was at the Bluff at the time, and such treatment of
the Trinity county boys raised his Yankee ire, and
he went after General Bidwell in good style. He
told the boys of Trinity to go to the hotel and get
what they wanted, and he would foot the bills.
Such was Israel Comstock, one of God's noblemen,
and a true specimen of the early pioneers of Cali-
i
• POLITICS AND WAR. 241
fornia. He died a few years since at Red Bluff.
Peace to liis aslies.
Jolin Martin, Oomstock's partner, is still in the
land of the living, one of the best-known men in
Northern California. He is the last of the firm that
commenced business in Weaverville thirty-six }^ars
since, and is running the old livery stable yet. John
Martin was like his old partner Comstock, a State
of Main man, a Whig in politics in early days; but
afterwards became a leading Republican, and a
live one too. When Comstock went to Red Bluff
to live, John Martin took advantage of his absence,
and turned the old Democratic headquarters into
Rej)ublicnn headquarters, and, I believe, it remains
so to this day. Many a Republican job was put nj)
in and around that old Democratic stump. Jolm
was a good, jovial fellow, and for thirty years there
was not a marriage, ball, dinner, christening, or
social party given in or about Weaverville but that
if John Martin was not at the head of it, it was con-
sidered that there was something wrong. Remain-
ing an old bachelor all this time, yet he got caught
at last. A few months since I saw the account of
his marriage in the San Erancisco papers. His
bride must indeed be a paragon of j)erfection to
catch the old boy at last. John, all your old Trinity
friends now residing in Humboldt county wish you
much joy and happiness, hoping the old nest of
Martins will be well stocked with 3^oung Martins,
and the old birds be spared to them until they are
242 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
full-feathered and ready to fly. John, old boy,
success to you and your bride.
To come back to '52. In the summer of that
3 ear the first Masonic lodge Avas started in Weaver-
yille, known as Trinity Lodge, Ko. 27, with a man
by the name of Chamberlin as Master, Dr. Winston
as Senior AVarden and 0. L. N. Vaughn as Junior
Warden. The lodge-room was in a building at the
lower end of the town, owned by a man by the
name of James Cameron, in the upper story of
which I received my first lesson in the mystic tie
in the fall of '52, I being the second Mason raised
to the third degree in the old lodge, which has
since turned out many a bright Mason. Cameron
sold the building to Madam Bush, and she started
the Polka Saloon, and the Masons moved into the
upper story of the court-house, and remained there
until the county built a court-house.
J. E. Chellis had the contract for building the
court-house, and tlie Masons got permission from
the County Court to build a third story on the build-
ing and make a lodge-room of it, paying J. F.
Chellis twenty-seven hundred and fifty dollars for
adding the third story, or lodge-room, to the build-
ing. When completed it made a safe and com-
fortable lodge. The Odd Fellows did not organize,
I believe, until along in the summer of '53, when
they started North Star Lodge, which became a
flourishing one.
The first school was started in '53 as a private
POLITICS AND WAR. 243
enterprise, tjinght by a lady by the name of Mrs.
Edwards, now Mrs. Belclier of San Francisco. Slie
had but six or seven pupils, three out of one family —
the Upton's — two boys and one girl. Mr. Uj)ton
was a lawyer of Weaverville, at one time a mem]3er
of the Legislature of California, afterwards Chief
Justice of Oregon, and the last time I heard of him
he Avas Third Auditor of the Treasury at Washington.
I believe there were some two or three pupils from
the family of Mr. Conway, who was then work-
ing at mining on West WeaA er. Such Avas the
beginning of civilization in WeaA erville.
24-1 PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFORKIA.
CHAPTER XXVI.
A Trip to Humboldt.
A trip to Humboldt. — Indian war rumors. — Judge Peters and the jokers.
— Volunteers in pursuit of Indians. — Uniontown. — Return to
Weaverville with General Denver.
Daring the summer of '58, hearing of the bean-
ties and richness of Humboldt county, I made up
my mind to visit that section. Buying a mule, I
started from Weayerville, to take a more extended
view of the resources of this county. On my arriv-
ing at Big Flat, on the lower Trinity, there Avere
rumors of the Indians having broken out, and being
on the war path. I found waiting for company
Judge Peters and two others, and we were joined
there by General Denver, all bound for TJ niontoAyn,
now Areata. We laid by for a couple of days be-
fore starting, and, in the meantime, word came to
Big Flat that Johnson, the packer, was killed by
the Indians while encamped on a prairie in the red-
Avoods. The five of us held a consultation whether
to venture over the trail or not. We came to the
conclusion to take the chances and go through, and
did so.
A TRIP TO HUMBOLDT. 245
Before starting the boys liad some fun witli
Judge Peters. Every morning, while staying there,
the Judge would dress himself for the road, with a
couple of pistols in his belt, and leggings on; lie also
had on one spur. There were one saloon and a
store on Big Elat at that time. The saloon was
kept by old Daddy McGann, and the store b}^ Stuart
& A¥iiliams~R. G. Stuart and R. M. Williams.
When Peters would make his appearance in the
store. Bob Stuart would tell him he had the s^^ur on
the wrong foot, as the brush on the trail all grew on
that side, and the Judge Avould change it to the
other foot; after a while he would visit old Daddy
McGaiin, and then the boys would reason with him
and tell him that the brush all grew on the other
side of the trail, and otf Avould come the spur; the
Judge complaining all the time that people could
not tell him the truth. The Judge was somewhat
of a militarv man, and he would insist on the five
of us forming ourselves into a compan}^ for drill,
and, in case the Indians attacked us, we could fight
them systematically; and then he Avould drill us,
he having had some experience in Virginia as a
military officer. The Judge was a high-toned
Virginian, and claimed to belong to the first
families of Yirginia. Well, after a time we got
started, the Judge complaining that we were the most
careless d — d set that he ever traveled with. All went
well the first day out, or until we had crossed the
South Fork and were getting into the Indian conn-
246 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
try; then the Judge began scolding ns for our care-
lessness, comx^laining of our loud talk, and said if
there was a hostile Indian within ten miles of us he
could hear us and would surely attack us, and that
we must not speak at all; but, if attacked, not to
lire until he would give the signal. General Denver,
although a brother Democrat, was not on good
terms with the Judge, and the General got a big
disgust on with the Judge. The rest of us
were amused at his foolishness. Einallv, as we
were drawing close to where Johnson Avas killed,
the Judge drew his pistol from his belt and ordered
the rest of us to do the same. This got the General's
ire up, and, calling to me, he said, " That damn
fool will kill some of us; we are in more danger
from him than we are from the Indians; make him
put up that revolver." The Judge had shot one man
some time before, in mistake for an Indian, on the
same trail. I rode up to the Judge and requested
him to j)ut up his gun until he should have more
need of it. He became indignant, and wanted to
know if I knew who he was. I told him, "I sup-
pose you are Judge Peters." He said, " Sir, I am a
Virginia gentleman." " Then, sir," I replied, " put
up your gun, and act like a gentleman." He would
not do it until finally the other four of us told him
distinctly, if he did not do so, he would have to
travel alone, for we were going to take no chances
of being shot by him.
The Judge put his pistol up under protest, and
A TRIP TO HUMBOLDT. 247
Ave i:>roceeded on our journey, coming in due time
to Avliere Johnson, the packer, was killed and
buried. Our trail led through redwoods and prairie
country. In the afternoon we came to where the
boys were camped who were hunting the Indians.
They were under the command of " Kease " Wiley,
now of Eureka, then of Uniontown. They were a
welcome sight to us, as we were completely in the
dark as far as knowing anything about the hostiles
or the men in pursuit of them until we struck this
camp. Some distance from Angels Ranch we found
about thirty men who liad yolunteered to go after
the hostiles in about an hour's time after the news
came of the death of Johnson. Johnson was killed,
and his partner was shot and wounded badly, but
he got oyer it. The report was that it was their
own fault, for, when they camped for the night,
some Indians and squaws came into camp, and the
two white men seized a squaw each, and made them
stay with them all night. In the middle of the
night the Indians made an attack on them, killing
Johnson and badh^ wounding his partner, the squaws
helj)ing the Indians. We made Angels Ilanch
that night. It was kej)t by a man by the name of
Bill Eyans. There were a number of trayelers like
ourselyes stopj)ing at Angels Ranch and waiting for
more company.
We started next morning, quite a band of us, for
Uniontown, and arriyed all right about the middle
of the afternoon, and found the place a good deal
248 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
excited over the Indian troubles. We found Union-
town quite a town for those days; everything had a
sort of permanent look about it. We put up at the
American Hotel, then kept by "Kease" Wiley, a good
place to stop at, with lots of fresh vegetables and
fresh milk and butter, something we were not ac-
customed to getting in the mines. The hotel was
on the northeast corner of the plaza. Nearly op-
posite on the other side of the street, was Murdock's
store, and oj)posite that was Boles & Ooddington's
store. Boles & Coddington did quite a large busi-
ness. They had a branch store on Big Bar, on the
Trinity River, where they sold a large amount of
gold-dust. Near the southwest corner of the plaza
W. C. Martin and H. J. Dart kept store. Old man
Jacoby kept a restaurant on the south side of the
plaza, and a bar and billiard room, which was con-
sidered the " tony " place of the town. Old Mr. Nixon
had a dwelling-house on the northwest corner of the
plaza, which was the best private dwelling I had
yet seen in the State. General Denver made a
political sj)eech for the Democratic side of the
house Avhile we were at Uniontown. In about
eight or ten days the volunteers returned from the
war, with not a scalp to adorn their shields. It
was a bloodless war, so far as they were concerned.
Here the General and myself were in a pretty fix,
wanting to get home, and no one but us two willing
to take the chances. AVe had about eighty miles of
Indian country to travel througli, and not even
A TRIP TO HUMBOLDT. 249
Judge Peters to acconix3any ns or give us the bene-
fit of his experience. We left Uniontown in the
afternoon, and staid at Bates' all night. We had
exi3ected that there might be more comj)any at that
point wanting to go through; but we were disap-
pointed, as no person wanted to take the chances of
the trij). Next morning Denver and myself started
on our foolhardy trip, with our eyes and ears open,
ready for a fight at any moment, and expecting it;
but, as good fortune favored us, we made the South
Fork the first night, after a hard day's ride, and
stopped all night with Pole Hill, who kept a sort of
a hotel or stoj)ping-place for travelers at the cross-
ing of tlie South Eork. We considered the worst
part of the journey over, as there had been no dep-
redations done above the South Pork as yet. Next
morning we were again on the road, and made Big
Flat that night, if I remember correctly, well tired
out and very glad to be in a land of safety. It was,
as Denver remarked, a A-ery foolhardy trip for two
of us to make; but we made it all right. I had
more courage then than I have noAV. The next
day's ride was an easy one, from Big Flat to
Weaverville, where we arrived all right. I took
the trip to see the country, and considered I was
well repaid for my trouble. My first sight of
Areata was a j)leasing one. I thought it one of the
most beautiful j)laces for a town I had seen in the
State, lying in and surrounded by a beautiful and
X3roductive country, with a forest of majestic red-
250 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
woods for a background, and Humboldt Bay lying
in front of it. All vegetation round the town looked
green and fresh — so diiferent from what I had been
accustomed to. To me it seemed like an earthly
paradise. We did not visit Eureka or any other
portion of the county. I made up my mind then
that at some future day Humboldt county should
be my permanent home.
A DESPERADO KILLED — WATER TROUBLES. 251
CHAPTER XXVII.
A Desperado Killed. — Water Troubles.
A gambler and desperado killed. — Gamblers and desperados contributed
to California by the disbanded American army of the Mexican war. —
Joseph McGee shoots McElroy. — A full jail.
During my absence from Weaverville there took
place one of those unfortunate circumstances
whereby a man lost his life. There was a " sjiort "
in town — I have forgotten his name. He had com-
mitted some offense, and there was a warrant out
for his arrest. The warrant was given to Harry J.
Seaman, who was Deputy Sheriff under William M.
Lowe. Harry undertook to serve the warrant, but
the fellow would not be arrested. He drew his
pistol, and told the deputy that neither he nor any
other man could arrest him. The deputy then
drew his pistol, and the two men stood facing each
other for some little time. William M. Lowe, the
Sheriff, was close by, in Ike Dixon's barber shop,
getting shaved. Hearing the noise and loud talk,
he jumped out of the chair, and, on going to the
door, took in the situation at a glance. He ran to
his dejiuty, and, taking the j)istol out of his hand.
252 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
lie told the fellow to throw up his hands and sur-
render, or he Avould kill him. The fellow refused
to surrender, and Lowe blazed away, the bullet
striking him in the breast and going clear through
him and lodging in the door-frame of our store.
The Avhole fracas took place under onr awning and
immediately in front of our store. The bullet re-
mained in the door-frame until the next winter,
when the building burned down. The fellow ex-
pired in a few minutes after being hit. The coro-
ner's jur}^ returned a verdict of "justifiable
homicide — killed while resisting an oificer in the
discharge of his duty." He was buried, and that
was the last said about him. He lived the life of a
gambler and desperado, and died by the hand of
violence, like hundreds of others in the early days
of California.
Every few days one wouhl hear or read of some
such tragedy, when the American army that con
quered Mexico was disbanded. Gold was shortly
afterwards discovered, and many of the gamblers
and desjieradoes that accompanied the army to
Mexico turned their attention to California, and
frequently tried to run the country in their own
way; but they generally got snubbed. Sometimes
their brawls and cutting and shooting scrapes would
be amongst themselves, and then there was very
little attention paid to them. I remember very
distinctly about a shooting scrape that took place
between McGee and another sport by the name of
A DESPERADO KILLED — WATER TROUBLES- 253
McElroy. McGee was knoAvn as the worst man
in Weaverville, and generally known as Hell-roaring
McGee. His proper name was Josej)li McGee,
and he came from the State of Tennessee. He was
elected the first Assessor of Trinity county, which
then embraced Humboldt within its borders.
McGee, while assessing, collected all the money
he could, and made but very small returns to the
County Treasury. The Grand Jury got after him
and found several indictments against him, and he
left the county for the county's good. The fracas
between the two men grew out of a dispute over a
game of cards one night, when both men drew their
pistols and fired. There was a scattering out of
that house for a few numients. McGee got in liis
work first, and shot McElroy, and with his usual
luck came out of the fracas unhurt. McElroy was
taken to his room, supposed to be mortally wounded,
and there hovered between life and death for some
days.
At times he was out of his head. His room was
in the American Hotel, upstairs, the stairs being
on the outside of the building. One day, while in
one of his delirious fits, he sprang out of bed, and,
seizing a large boAvie-knife, made for the door and
out on the platform at the head of the stairs. There
he stood, with no clothing on but his undershirt
and drawers, cursing and swearing in a fearful
manner that he would cut the heart out of every
son of man in Weaverville. The carpenters were
254 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
at work on my building, next to the American. As
soon as tliey saw the plight he was in — crazy, with
a bowie-knife in his hand — they made tracks for
some more sheltered nook. Some men came
through the building and took his knife from him
and got him back into his room before any damage
was done. He finally got well, and I learned after-
wards that he became quite a good man.
In the summer of 1853 the water troubles
commenced on West Weaver. I gave a short
sketch of the first ditches that were brought into
AVeaverville in the sunmier of '51. About the
same time there was a ditch taken out of West
Weaver, aud brought into Sidney Hill and other
diggings in that vicinity. Dr. William Ware got
control of the West Weaver ditch and enlarged
it so that, for the most part of the dry season,
he turned all the water of West Weaver into
it, and left the miners below the dam with no
water to work their claims. The old law of riparian
rights — that is, that the water of a stream cannot
be turned out of its natural channel when required
there — was the law the miners claimed under, and
they contended for their rights under that law.
They remonstrated with Dr. Ware, but to no pur-
pose. The Doctor wouUl not listen to them.
Finally, after having several miners' meetings over
the matter, and sending committees to try and com-
j)romise with him, they came to the conclusion that
patience had ceased to be a virtue, and that they
A DESPERADO KILLED — WATER TROUBLES. 255
would try to get their rights in some more effective
manner. It was resolved at one of their meetings to
cut the dam out by force, and tight if necessary.
Accordingly the meeting resolved itself into a com-
mittee of the whole, and started for Dr. Ware's
dam, armed and equipped with rifles, x^istols, axes,
picks and shovels, bent on having Avater to work
their claims. There were about one hundred and
twenty of them. When they got to the dam they
found three or foirr men working on the dam. Dr.
Ware's men could offer no resistance to such a
croAvd, who commenced on the dam and made short
work of it. In a few minutes there was plenty of
water running down the bed of the stream. They
then posted a notice tliat if the dam was again j^ut
in they would cut it out again, and returned to
their claims and their work. Dr. Ware started for
Weaverville, three or four miles distance, and
entered complaint against nine of the principal
leaders of the West Weaver miners, and had
them arrested for maliciously destroying proj)erty.
They were arrested and brought to Weaverville by
Sheriff Lowe, and confined in the county jail.
Several of the business men of the town offered to
bail them out, but thev refused all bail. In the
meantime the balance of the miners who were en-
gaged in cutting out the dam came to Weaverville
in a body — over one hundred of them — telling the
Sheriff that they were as guilty as those who were
in prison, and Avanted him to serve them all alike.
256 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
The Sheriff remonstrated, but to no iivail. He
eitlier had to let the others out or put them in. The
Slieriff rej)lied:
" If 3 on are so damned anxions to go to jail, in
yon go! "
Kow the jail was a very small building, made of
hewn logs, not over eighteen or twenty feet sqnare,
and Lowe had to i)ut about one hundred and
twenty-five men into it. He got them all in, but
they were packed as close as sardines in a box. The
jail was poorly ventilated. After the door was
closed for a few minutes and the air cnt oif, it be-
came almost intolerable. In the meantime the
miners from other parts came into town to the nnm-
ber of several hundred and went to Sheriff" Lowe,
demanding the immediate release of the whole of
the prisoners, or that they be confined in some
more fit place. If he did not grant their request,
they told him they would i)ull the jail down in
short order. Sheriff Lowe said the most of them
were in jail at their own request, but he woukl do
the best he could for them. On consultation with
the County Judge, they decided to take the boys
ont and confine them in tlie court-room, which was
large and well ventilated. The culprits were quite
comfortable in their new prison, and all went well
nntil supper time came. The boys began to get
hungry, and demanded the Sheriff to get them their
supper. This set Sheriff Lowe to thinking. He
went to the restanrants to order supper for his
A DESPERADO KILLED— WATER TROUBLES. 257
prisoners, but tlie restaurants of that time in
Weaverville were not very extensive, and not well
sui)plied witli conveniences for so large a crowd of
county boarders. Besides, meals at that lime were
one dollar each, in cash, and the county had no
cash to pay, and the county scrij) was worth fifty
cents on the dollar. The restaurant men were not
anxious to accommodate the Sheriff in the " grub "
line for fiftv cents on the dollar. Finallv the
Sheritf got mad and went to the court-house. Eling-
ing the doors open, he exclaimed :
" Get out of here, every mother's son of you, and
get your own supj)ers, or go without, and be damned
to you!"
The boys left hurrahing for Sheriff Lowe.
258' PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
CHAPTER XXVIII.
A Mi NATURE Ireland,
Conspiracy to han.L^ Doctor Williani, Ware. — First Water-melons.—
Serving on a grand jury.
After tlie miners were released from custody
there were some tall threats against Dr. Ware, as
he was the means of sending so many persons to
jail. I was one day at work in my shoi?, when a
friend named Seely came in. We talked for awhile
about the water troubles, and the miners being
imprisoned, when he remarked:
" Do you know that Dr. Ware is a Mason'? "
" Ko, I was not aware of it," said I.
He assured me that he was. In a short time
after Seely left the shop a friend of mine came in —
a miner from West Weaver — and one of the men
who had been in jail. I said to him:
" Billy, do you know that Dr. AYare is a Mason'? "
He seemed to be thunderstruck with the in-
formation.
" Do you know him to be such'? " he asked.
I told him my informant. His reply was:
" O God; can that be so'?" He again asked, "Is
it sor'
A MINIATURE IRELAND. 259
I told liim I tlionght it was the truth. He stood
for some ininutes in conteiiii^hition, and then asked
to see me j)riYately. We then went to a private
phice, Avhen he informed me that he and eight
others had entered into a conspiracy to hang Dr.
Ware on a certain night, and that I must stop it or
prerent it. They had, he informed me, bound
tliemselves under the most solemn oath to take his
life and be avenged on* him for indignities that he
had caused them. Being cast into jail like common
felons was more than they could stand. Smarting
under their wrongs they entered into that dreadful
conspiracy which, had it been carried into effect, v
each would have regretted to the last da^s of his
life. I consulted witli Dr. Harris, a friend that
could be relied on. We came to the conclusion to
go that night and warn Dr. Ware of his danger.
In the afternoon it came on to rain. That night
we (Dr. Harris aud myself) agreed to meet at 9
o'clock and go to the Doctor's cabin and warn him
of the impending danger. It was a fearfully wet
night. We dared not take a lantern with us, and
the trail led up through the mines, and was very
difficult to follow, and dangerous at that. We
finally, after many mishaj)s, got to his cabin. The
old gentleman and two others were quietly sitting
by the fire when we entered. The Doctor was sur-
prised to see us at such an hour and on such a night.
I had had some little difficulty with the Doctor,
and we had not spoken to each other for the past
260 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
A'ear. AVe informed the Doctor that we had a little
business with him, and wished to converse
with him a fcAV minutes in private. The
Doctor consented, and we went out of the cabin and
under tlie woodshed. We found him what he was
rej)resented to be. We then informed him of the
conspiracy to take his life, or do him some great
bodily injury. The Doctor was very much alarmed,
and did not know what course to pursue. We ad-
vised him not to sleep in his cabin until he had
notice from us that it was safe to do so, but to sleep
with some of his neighbor miners until the thing
^ was settled, and not to j)nsh the suits against the
miners that were then pending before the courts. The
Doctor agreed to follow our advice in every
particular, and did so.
In the meantime my West Weaver friend went
home, and, as he infornied me afterwards, he called
on the other cons^^irators and told them that he
would have nothing more to do with the matter,
and advised the others to drop the thing, and not
commit a crime that they would forever rej)ent.
Einally one after another came to his views, and
agreed not to molest the Doctor in any private
manner whatever. They kept their words. In the
meantime the Doctor kept out of his cabin at night
for some time, and withdrew the suits against the
miners for malicious mischief. In a short time
afterwards the matter was settled by compromise,
and things again Avore a peaceful aspect in Weaver-
A MINIATURE IRELAND- 2B1
ville. After our mission to Dr. Ware's was com-
pleted, and the Doctor was warned of his danger,
Harris and myself returned to town. And a good
time we had getting there. How Ave ever escaped
falling into some of the mining holes or ditches that
beset our trail, was a mystery to both of us ; but,
aside from a few tumbles over piles of tailings and
a few bruises, we got back all right.
Looking back over a lapse of thirty-six years, and
thinking over the tragedy that was likely to have
occurred, I cannot but feel thankful that Provi-
dence interfered and made me instrumental through
the agency of that noble order which has been the
pride of the good and great men of all nations and
all ages of the world, in saving the life of a fellow-
mortal. Through its agencv I was informed of a
great crime that was about being committed;
through its agency I was able to counteract and
stoj) the committal of that great crime, which
would have brought shame and disgrace upon every
good citizen of the county, besides taking the life
of a good man and a worthy citizen. The men who
entered into the conspiracy I never knew except
the one referred to, and he was a good man. He
stood well in the community, but was young and
high-spirited. It galled them terribly to think that
they should be committed to jjrison for contending
for what they thought to be their rights as Ameri-
cans, hence their banding together to do that rash
act, which, thank Heaven, they were prevented
262 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
from carrying out. I would not have written this,
but the principal actors have long since left the
county or died, and Dr. William Ware, a short
time since, paid the great debt of nature, leaving
behind him the name of a good man, and one of
Trinity's early and enterprising citizens. The con-
spiracy was never known except to Dr. Harris and
myself and those engaged in it.
Some time in '52, two enterj)rising citizens, A.
J. Eelter and Dan Sullivan, took up and located
some large flats near the mouth of Oregon Gulch
for the purpose of gardening and raising fruit. It
proved a paying venture. The land was good, and
everything they put in tlie ground did remarkably
well. I remember the first watermelons they
brought to town for sale. If my meuKuy serves
me right, they sent over two j^t^ck mules loaded
with them. Their place was about seven miles
from town. Melons were things we old inhabitants
never expected to regale ourselves with; but, in the
course of time, they came with other luxuries the
oldest inhabitant never dreamed of. AVell, we had
to have some of the melons. Asking the price,
and being informed they were so much per pound,
I picked out one and weighed it. It came to the
modest sum of two dollars and fifty cents, and
cheap at that. They went off like hot cakes, and
could not begin to supply the demand. In a short
time these gentlemen had a fine strawberry patch
in full operation, and sucli strawberries as they
A MINIATURE IRELAND. 263
raised were hard to beat. In due course of time
Mrs. Eelter — Jack Eelter's wife, a very estimable
lady — made her appearance from the State of Ohio.
Eelter bought out Sullivan, and he returned to
Boston where he belonged. At this time they were
running a pack-train to Shasta, keeping store, run-
ning the garden and hotel, and doing quite a busi-
ness. Every summer, for several years, they had a
grand ball or strawberry party, when the beauty
and chivalry of Trinity county would assemble
there to eat strawberries, and at night to trip the
light fantastic toe. Many a pleasant party assem-
bled on Oregon Gulch at the home of Jack Eelter
in the early days of California. Jack and his good
wife are now residents of San Bernardino City.
A few words concerning Oregon Gulch. Gold
was found in it in the summer of '50 by some
Oregonians, but there was very little work done
there that season. When I passed uj) it in Eebru-
ar}', '51, there were no j)ersons working on it. We
prosj)ected on the gulch, and found very good pros-
pects, aiul intended to come back, if we found no
better in Weaverville. That summer, or the sum-
mer of '51, there was quite a rush to the northern
mines, and Oregon Gulch got its share. Quite a
number of the sons of the Emerald Isle located on the
gulch, and it became a miniature Ireland. There
were two parties of them (they were always at war),
the Daceys and tlie Eoy crowd. Nearly every
Grand Jurv that met had more or less cases from
264 PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFOKNIA.
Oregon Grulch. If the Dacey crowd had no griev-
ance to redress, then the Eoy crowd had. In their
way they made work for the Grand Juries every
session.
I remember in the spring of '55 being drawn on
the Grand Jury. Judge R. T. Miller was County
Judge at that time, and he appointed Major Cox
foreman of the jury. The usual batch of com-
plaints came up from Oregon Gulch. This time it
was the Daceys who were the aggressors, and Tom
Poy laid his complaint before the Grand Jury.
When the business came up in its usual form, Tom
apj)eared before the Grand Jury, to give his version
of the affair. He was sworn to tell what he knew
about it.
" May it plase your honors," was Tom's reply,
"just look at me face! That's ividence anufffor
you gintlemin — that ought to be ividence to con-
vict the murdering villians of murder, and so it
ought."
Tom's face presented rather a dilapidated ap-
pearance. His beauty was certainly spoiled for a
while. It was the worst looking face that I had
seen in many a day. But Tom couldn't give a ver}^
intelligent account of the aifair. He was well " set
up," at the time the fight occurred, with Oregon-
Gulch " tanglefoot." After Tom got through with
his evidence and had left the jury-room, some one
of the Grand Jury made a motion that it be left to
Archy Mitchell and myself. As the plaintiff or
A MINIATURE IRELAND- 265
eomplaining witness was an Irisliman, and the de-
fendants were Iiislinien, and we two — Arcliy and
myself — were Irishmen, it was nothing bnt right and
j)roj)er that we Irishmen shoukl settle the matter
in onr own way. We objected to the arrangement,
but it was " no go." We finally recommended that,
as it was a drmiken row, and no one knew who was
to blame, it would be better to drop the matter,
as no person was seriousl}' hurt. Tom was very
much disappointed, gave the Grand Jury a piece of
his mind, and the matter ended at that.
266 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXIX..
A Chinese War.
Another conflagration.— A battle between two bands of Chinamen. —
Furnishing the implements of war. — Many killed.
Again in tlic winter of '53 the fire fiend gave us
a loud call. This time it broke out at the St.
Charles Hotel, kept b}^ old man Hovey, and burned
up a large portion of the town. Weaverville has
sutfered more from fires, I believe, than any mining
town in the State. Eive times it had been laid in
in ashes, and each time by the push and energy of
her citizens the town was again rebuilt. Einally
her citizens commenced building fire-j)roof brick in
several parts of the town, which put a stop to the
frequent fires to which we had been subject.
In the summer of '54 the burg was thrown out
of its usually quiet and peaceful ways by two bands
of hostile Chinamen, the Hongkongs and Cantons.
It appeared that, for several months j^revious, there
had been trouble between the factions. One or the
other of the parties would occasionally get some of
their men hurt by the opposite faction, and then
there would be war on a miniature scale. ^Finally
A CHINESE WAR. ^67
they killed one of the Cantons' leading men, and
patience ceased to be a virtne with them. They
challenged the Hongkongs for a regnlar pitched
battle, to come off abont a month ahead. The
Hongkongs accepted the challenge tlins thrown at
them, and commenced preparing for action. The
first I knew of the impending war came from one
of the China bosses, who came into the shop with a
pattern similar to the iron of a pike-pole, and
wanted to know how mnch I would charge to make
one hundred like the pattern, oiit of steel. I told
him one dollar and fifty cents each. He told me to
go ahead. About an hour later the boss of the
Hongkongs came into the shop and asked :
" How muche one hundledl "
I told him one dollar and fifty cents. He told
me if I would quit making them for the Cantons
he would give me two hundred for his company. I
said :
" All right, John."
In a short time afterwards the boss of the Can-
tons made his apj)earance, and told me, if I would
quit the Hongkongs' work, he would give me two
dollars and a half, and I could make him three
hundred more. I said:
" All right, John."
They were a little different from the first lot, but
just as easily made. This was crowding things in
my line pretty heavily, besides my regular work,
which Avas driving me considerable. For three
268 PIONEEK DAYS IN CALIFOKNTA.
weeks I ran the slioj) day and night, making China
instruments of war. Some of the queerest things I
made for them that I hare ever seen or read of^
great sjyears with three prongs, heavy enough for
old Goliah to have wielded in his day; others were
made something like brush scythes. And they
would take them awa}' from the shop before they
were cold, and pay up for them. They had nearly
ever}^ blacksmith shop in the county engaged in
like manner. In* the meantime other Oliinamen
were in the woods cutting poles fourteen or fifteen
feet long, bringing them to town, and dressing them
up for handles for the instruments we were makingc
Things were going on finely. After they got one
or two hundred armed men on each side they would
frequently drill in the streets. One party had the
upper end of town, on Court street, and the other
party had the lower end. So there was very little
danger of them coming together in town, and the
whites gave them to understand that if they got to
fighting in the streets and injured a white man,
the whites would kill every mother's son of them on
both sides. Einally both armies got armed and
drilled, and the day was set for the fight.
In the meantime William M. Lowe, the Sheriff
of the county, came to me and forbade my making
any more war instruments for the belligerents, or
delivering any that I had on hand, knowing that
they were going to disturb the peace with them.
I tried to reason with him, but it was " no go."
A CHINESE WAR. 269
Einally I inquired of liim what the penalty was.
" A fine of five hundred doUars!"
" Is that ain " I said, " and when will you enforce
it]"
" When the Grand Jury meets," said he, " I will
have you indicted sure."
" All right, Mr. Lowe," I replied, " I can afford
to pay five hundred dollars, and then come out
winner in the game." I went on making war in-
struments. That was the last I heard of it. I was
not indicted.
The day before the fight the Cantons made a
grand demonstration through Main street. They
turned out about two liundred and fifty or three
hundred strong, with all tlie grand panoply of war.
Their arms consisted of the spikes, dart-shaped im-
X^lements and spears, all fastened on to ]3oles four-
teen or sixteen feet long. At the head of the pole
where the steel entered was tied red-silk ribbons.
AYith their swallow-tailed dragon banner floating
to the breeze, they made a warlike appearance,
the marcliing and counter-marching up and doAvn
the streets striking terror into the breasts of their
enemies.
The day appointed for the battle arrived, and the
town was full of hostile Chinamen — a complete
gathering of the clans. The military spirit ran
high amongst the followers of Confucius. Miners
from all j)arts of the county came to see the fun.
Two o'clock in the afternoon was the time set for
270 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the grand affair to come off. The place chosen was
some large flats east of the town and near East
Weaver. At the appointed time the hostile armies
were facing each other in battle array — the Hong-
kongs being divided into two grand divisions per-
haps one hundred yards apart, while the Cantons,
or small party, were in a compact body, waiting for
the onslaught.
The battle-ground was full of people. Sheriff
Lowe Avas on the ground trying to summon a posse,
or an army of his own, to stop the fight. He would
go uj) to a man, take his name, and summon liim to
his aid. The reply would be:
"Go to li — 1, Lowe — we came here to see the
tight, and we are going to see it."
The understanding between the whites and
Chinamen was that there should be no firearms
used in the fight — that the fighting was to be done
with their own implements of war. Einally, when
the Sheriff found he could not stop the fight, he left
the ground in perfect disgust, cursing the boys for
being such d — d poor American citizens, and
swearing he would have every mother's son of them
indicted by the Grand Jury at its next session.
Tlie boys came to see the fight, and they were going
to see it. The Grand Jury had no terrors for them.
It was long after 2 o'clock, and no fight yet. The
hostile armies stood facing each other, hallooing
all sorts of slang at each other in tlieir own lan-
guage. Pinally it began to be rumored that there
A CHINESE WAR. 271
Avas not going to be a fight — that they were fooling
the boys who had come so far to see it. That
was more than the honest miners could stand, and
they were not going to stand it either. Einally,
after waiting until patience was exhausted, they
started to drive the two armies together and make
them fight, whether they wanted to or not. The
ground where the battle was to take place was full
of washed gravel — rocks of all sizes were abundant.
Eorty or fifty of the boys got behind each army and
commenced rocking and driving them together. In
the meantime another party of whites got between
the two divisions of the Hongkongs and would not
let one division take any part in the fight. This left
the big party really the smallest. When the Cantons
saw the turn things had taken in their favor, they
charged across the gulch, or flats, up the bank and
into the ranks of the Hongkongs. The Hongkongs
stood to their work like men. As soon as they
crossed pikes with each other, then commenced the
popping of j)istols. I was standing with a number
of others on a large log, on the brow of the gulch,
a short distance from the scene of the fight. When
the pistols commenced popping I turned round to
jump off the log so as to get behind it. A Swede
was standing on the same log with a six-shooter in
his hand, shooting into the combatants indiscrimi-
nately, just for the fun of it. Before I left the log
he fell over with a bullet through his brain. He
never knew what hurt him. As soon as he fell.
272 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
there was a scampering — behind the log was con-
sidered a much safer phice than on top of it. The
fellow died immediately. He no doubt was shot
by a white man close by. In after years I was told
the fellow's name who fired the fatal shot. But the
general verdict was that it served him right.
The charge across the gulch was made in fine
style. The Hongkongs Avithstood the onslaught
until they saw their supports cut off by the whites.
They then broke and ran. Of course there were
several of them wounded and lying on the field.
As the enemy passed them by each warrior of the
Cantons would stop and plunge his pike or dart
into liis unfortunate foeman who liad fallen. No
mercy there. Some of the dead had at least twenty
wounds in them. There were several killed on
each side, but the Hongkongs were the heaviest
losers. The whites acted unfairly in the matter —
they took the side of a small crowd, and j)revented
one-half of the Hongkongs taking part in the fight,
which discouraged the rest of them. The Cantons
had pistols concealed, and, when in close quarters,
commenced using them with deadly effect. The
Hongkongs made a masterly retreat, showing some
tall running. When the pistols came into play the
whites commenced to move for trees and logs that
had " behinds " to them, but there was no person
hurt but the Swede, who was killed close to where
I was standing.
After the fight tlie victorious Cantons marched
A CHINESE WAR. 273
into town with all the pride and glory of Napo-
leon's old guard Avhen making their last charge at
Waterloo. At their headquarters on Court street
they had one grand jubilee, and all were invited to
partake of their hospitality \ Brandy and liquors
of all kinds flowed free — the town was painted red,
and it was a grand day for the free-whisky "bum."
The Avounded were taken to headquarters and
properly cared for, the dead to be buried on the
morrow with all the pomp that a victorious army
could bestoAV on their fallen heroes.
The army of the Hongkongs Avas broken and dis-
persed. They returned to their headquarters after
dark, Avith their banners trailing in the dust, leaA-
ing many of their fallen braA es on the field of
battle, cold in death. Quite a number of the Hong-
kongs were buried about a mile and a half beloAv
the toAvn.
Thus ended the China Avar for a time in Trinity
county.
274 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXX.
A Severe Winter.— Making Homes.
Plenty of provisions. — A prosperous year. — Advancement in civili?a-
tion. — Hovey's green peas and silver forks. — Slicing a man's coat-taiL
— Additions to Weaverville society. — The benign influence of
women and children.
After the Chinese fight and the boys had had
their fun and returned to their claims, tilings about
town settled down to e very-day quiet. The winter
had come, and a a ery hard one it was. Snow lay
between three and four feet deep all over Weaver-
ville basin, and there was very little Avork done in
the mines. Unlike the winter of 1852-3, we had
plenty of provisions in the valley to last during the
snow blockade. The peoj)le had not yet forgotten
their experience of 1852-3, when barley and coffee
mills were in demand. Every miner and company-
laid in a good stock of flour, beans, sugar and bacon,
so as not again to be j)laced on barley rations. The
only commodity of which there was a scarcity was
firewood. The town had now become quite large,
and wood had to be hauled a considerable distance;
and hauling through three or four feet of snow was
A SEVERE WINTER— MAKING HOMES- 275
ii difficult task. Wood went up to twenty dollars
per cord.
As soon as the spring came and the snow began
to melt, the miners were in their glory. The sum-
mer of 1855 was a pros^^erous one for old Trinity.
IS^otliing startling took place during the jear. The
county was dropping its fast, de^ il-may-care man-
ner of early days, and assuming a more civilized
state. Many of the miners had changed their opin-
ions of California, and began to think it a pretty
good place in wliich to make a home, and many of
them went back East for their wives and families or
sweethearts, Avith the intention of making tlieir
homes here. Thus tlie State was gaining a perma-
nent population. The manner of living was fast
changing. In early days the everlasting "slap-
jack " and rancid bacon, or saleratus biscuit and
coffee sweetened with Chinese sugar, formed the
daily food of the miner. His dining outtit con-
isisted of a tin plate, a sheath-knife, a fork whittled
out of a stick, and the everlasting tin cup for his
coffee.
Things at this time had taken a decided turn for
the better. ]Men had learned that California could
produce something besides hides and tallow and
gold. The fcAV experiments made at raising vege-
tables proved a decided success. I well remember
the first green peas that came to market; they were
raised on Oregon Gulch, and were Avorth fifty cents
per j)ound. Old man Hovey was then keeping the
276 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
St. Charles Hotel. The old iiitin was a Massachusetts
Yankee, and x>i'ided himself on keepmg the best
house in town, and on having everything the
market afforded. Hovey bought all the green peas
that Eelter had to sell that day, and then put up
posters announcing that on Sunday the St. Charles
Hotel would have green peas for dinner, with silver
forks to eat them with. Previous to this the best
hotels in Weaverville had but two-pronged forks,
and iron at that. The old man Hovey was a little
cranky, or at least Avas so considered by many of
the boys. They often played some trick upon him.
The miners generally came to town on Sunday to
get what they called a "square" dinner. A large
crowd came from West Weaver Creek on that
Sunday to partake of Hovey's green peas with silver
forks. Now, the West Weaver miners at that time
were made up of the hardest class of " scalawags "
in the State. As a joke on Hovey they formed a
plan to steal his green peas, and they accomplished
it.
The old landlord had his peas all shelled in the
kitchen on Saturday niglit and made ready for the
pot for Sunday's dinner. A considerable number
of the West Weaver jokers were in town Saturday
night, and next morning Hovey's green peas had
taken wings and disappeared. It Avas a disappoint-
ment to HoA ey, but the old man in Yankeeland
had been a deacon of the Baptist Church, and now
he did not swear; but he must haA e thought bad
A SEVERE WINTER — MAKING HOMES. 277
words. Well, the boys tliought they Avonld give
old man Hovey and the St. Charles Hotel a "bene-
fit " anj^vay, notwithstanding the j)eas were stolen.
Bnt, alas ! the silver forks followed the green peas.
Every fellow had j)ocketed one of Hovey's silver
forks, and got away with it. This was the last
stroke for Hovey; he got disgusted with California
and left the State. He sold ont to David Hinds, a
crusty old fellow from Kew Jersey, who could hold
his own with the boys.
He improved the St. Charles Hotel so far as to
get a dozen arm-chairs for the bar-room. One day
a miner came in and placed himself in one of these
chairs, pulled out his knife, and commenced whit-
tling one of the arms. Dave espied what he was
doing. He hauled uj) a chair alongside of the fel-
low, pulled out his knife, and commenced making
ribbons of the fellow's coat-tail. There were several
men in the bar-room at the time, and, preceiving
what was going on, they began to laugh. The fel-
low cutting the chair turned his head to see what
the men were laughing at, and then, perceiving
Dave cutting his coat-tail, jumped up and asked:
" What the d — 1 are you cutting my coat for ^ "
Dave coolly remarked: " What the d — 1 are you
cutting my chair fori Have I not as good a right
to cut your coat as you have to cut my chair *? " The
fellow studied a moment, and replied: "You have."
He then said: " Gentlemen, it is my treat." Dave
made a further addition to the St. Charles by bring-
t
278 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ing his family. One member of tlie family, a clangli-
ter of sixteen or seventeen, was quite an addition
not only to tlie St. Charles Hotel, but also to
Weayeryille society.
We were getting on famously. The toAvn could
now boast of three marriageable young ladies, viz.:
IMiss Hinds, ^Miss Connor, and Miss Morgan, a
step-daughter of Diek Clifford. Miss Hinds died
unmarried. Miss Connor married Charles Sloan,
was for a long time a resident of Hydesville in this
county, and now lives in the hills not far from
Blocksburg. Miss Morgan married Henry Hacker,
one of Weaverville's early merchants. She died
several years since, leaving quite a family of chil-
dren, now men and women grown. The school
children had become quite numerous, and the pub-
lic schools of the State had become well established.
Kobert Desty, now of San Prancisco, tlie compiler
of our Criminal Code, was one of the first teachers
in the public schools of Weaverville.
How great and beneficent is the influence of
women and cliildren upon men! Without the in-
fluence of virtuous women, men would soon relapse
into barbarism, and become as wild as the savages
that roam over the plains. We have seen this illus-
trated in the early days of California. When virtu-
ous women were very few in the State, men who had
been taught better things at their mothers' knees,
became reckless and indulged in all manner of vice
and wickedness. Many of the men who avoided
A SEVERE WINTER — MAKING HOMES. 279
the gambling-table and tlie wine-cnx?, allowed
tliemselves to become nnsliaven and unkempt until
their own mothers would not have known them.
But, as soon as true women began to arrive
in the mines and settlements of California, what a
change! Men forsook the gambling-table and the
wine-cuj); the razor and the bathtub came into
frequent use; white shirts, and what the boys called
" store clothes," were more in demand; and an
evening spent in the company of ladies was much
prized. Yet, with all their seeming roughness, in
the presence of women and children, nine-tenths of
them were perfect gentlemen. Many of them
were men of education and refinement. For three
or four years the great majority of the women of
California, if you could call them women, were of
the basest kind. They were imj)ortations of the
very worst elements of French, Spanish, Mexican,
Chileans, Australian and American women, whose
society- was more demoralizing than that of the
fallen angels or the imps of "Dante's Inferno." But,
when the true Avomen from every land made their
aj)pearance, bringing with them children, the
school, the church and their own refined and virtu-
ous society, then soon society became changed for
the better. Civil law took the place of lynch law,
and the free use of the knife and j)istol became less
frequent.
But, to come back to my subject: David Hinds
kei)t the St. Charles Hotel until it burned down;
280 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
and lie did not rebuild the hotel a^ain. He was
elected Foreign Miners' License Collector, beating
Henry Jones, a brother of John P. Jones, before
the Republican Convention of '63. After serving
out his term he moved to Santa Cruz, Avhere he be-
came one of Santa Cruz's leading citizens, and Avas
twice elected Mayor of that city. One of his sous,
Eirm Hinds, Avas Auditor, I belicA e, of Oakland,
for a number of years. The old man died at Santa
Cruz but a short time since.
THE BUILDING OF HIGHWAYS. 281
CHAPTER XXXL
The Building of Highways,
Taking up agricultural lands. — Building highways. — William S. Lowdeft
and his public-spirited enterprises. — The Weaverville and Shasta
wagon road, stages and buggies.
The year of 1856 tlie peoples' attention was prin-
cipally taken up with politics. As I have given a
short sketch of the Presidential election in " Pioneer
Politics," I Avill omit it here.
Trinity county has some very good agricultural
lands situated on her streams and in her valleys.
The early settlers, when they found that the soil
re]3aid the husbandman bountifully for his labor,
took up nearly every acre tit for agricultural pur-
j)Oses, and more especially where water could be
had for irrigation. All along the valley of the
Trinity there were very valuable ranches located, and
in Hay Fork Valley, and in the valley of Stewart's
Fork. Those ranches haA^e supplied the residents
of Trinity county with flour, vegetables, hay, and
the productions of the dairy since 1854, and likewise
with fruit of the very best quality. I do not think
that the fruit of Trinity county can be equalled in
282 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the State, and there are thousands of acres of fruit-
producing land within her borders. When the
mines are worked out her fruit will make the
county as prosperous as it was in the flush days of
her mines.
Up to 1857 there was no communication with the
outside world but by pack-train. All the products
of the ranches had to be packed to Weaverville on
mules at a large expense, inasmuch as no wagon-
roads of any considerable length led from the town.
One of those early pi(meers by the name of William
S. Lowden is the man to whom Trinity county and
Kortliern California is more indebted than to any
I.
other for his x^ublic s]3irit and enterprise. To him
belongs the credit of agitating and carrying out the
system of the j^ublic roads in Northern California.
Tlie Lowden boys, as the}^ were called, were among
the early packers of Korthern California. They ran
a large pack-train from Shasta and Red Bluifs to
all parts of the northern mines. They located one of
the best ranches on Trinity River, I believe as early
as 1851, and called it the Grass Valley Ranch. The
place afterward became better known as the
" Lowden Ranch." It was situated about nine
miles from Weaverville, and became one of the
best paying properties in the county. There were
three brothers of them, William, Matt and Frank,
all of them men of sterling worth. After a time
their father, mother and sister came from Illinois
to make their home in California, and at the Low-
THE BUILDING OF HIOmVAYS. 283
den Kanch. Miss Lowden mtirried tlie Hon. James
W. Tinnin, then a merchant doing bnsiness at
Weaverville, and lately Snrveyor of the Port of
San Erancisco, during President Cleveland's ad-
ministration. William bought Matt's and Frank's
interests in the ranch, and they went oif to the
northern mines.
William S. Lowden built one of the first bridges
on Trinity Eiver at his place. The i^rodncts of
the place, except what was used on the ranch, had
to be packed on mules to Weaverville to find a
market. Lowden's Ranch became one of the popu-
lar places between Weaverville and Shasta. He
had for several years been talking about the build-
ing of a wagon-road from Weaverville to Shasta.
Many of us ridiculed the idea of building a wagon-
road over Trinity and Brown's Mountain, that could
be of any use for the transportation of heavy goods.
In 1857 he formed what was called the Weaverville
and Shasta Wagon-road Company. I believe the
stock was forty or fifty thousand dollars. The
most of the stock Avas taken, and Lowden began
work on the road in a systematic manner. The
grade was nowhere to be over five degrees. Many
were afraid to take sliares in the enterprise for fear
of heavy assessments, but contributed what they
thought proper. It was like many other new enter-
prises; there were many doubting Thomases, and
often one would hear the remark that it would take
two or three hundred thousand dollars to build a
284 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
WMgoii-road over the mountains to Sliasta. Lowden
paid no attention to an}i;liing but liis road. In due
time the road was finished, and a good one it was.
Lowden became the lion of the hour. In a short
time after the completion of the road, we had our
daily four-horse coaches running between Weayer-
ville and Shasta. This was something that old
settlers never imagined would come to pass in their
day. What a change in seven years! The first
time I went from Weaverville to Shasta I paid
sixteen dollars to ride a pack-mule on an aparejot
with rojies for stirruj>s, and it required two days to
make the trip. Freight wagons soon came rolling
into town laden with goods. Here was a gTeat con-
venience for the merchant. His merchandise now
came in original or unbroken j)ackages. By the
old system of j)acking no j^ackage of over three
hundred pounds could be laden on mules, and sel-
dom a package of over one hundred and fifty
pounds was taken by the packers.
^Furniture for dwelling-houses now became quite
common, and people now began to provide their
homes with not only the comforts of life but many
of the luxuries.
As soon as the Lowden road became a success
the outlying towns began building roads to AYeaver-
ville, and in a short time there was a number of
small stages running into Weaverville. It became
quite a common thing to hear the sound of the stage
drivers' voices singing out: " All aboard for Oregon
THE BUILDING OF HIGHWAYS. 285
Gnlch, Junction City, Mc Gil very 's Ranch, lied Hill
and ^ortli Eork." Then again it would be: " All
aboard for Douglas City, Trinity Eiver and Stein-
er's Elat."" Then it would be: "All aboard for
Douglas City, Redding Creek, Brown's Creek and
Hay Eork Valley." Our enterprising liverynien,
Messrs. Comstock & Martin, never were behind in
public spirit. They furnished tlieir stable with
buggies, carriage horses and harnesses. Thus with
the advent of tlie wagon-road came all the luxuries
of civilized living. The Lowden road Avas a toll
road, and the tolls, when the road was first opened,
were quite high. Lowden got control of the most
of the stock, and made some money out of it; but
whether the stockholders made anything out of the
road or not, it was a grand improvement for
Northern California.
Bates and Van Meter as early as 1852 took up a
ranch near Minersville. They, like the other ranch-
men, had to pack their products to Weaverville on
mules, and, like other ranchmen, felt the need of
roads. At the election of 1858, Eordvce Bates was
elected to the Legislature from Trinity, and he,
with the assistance of the members from Humboldt,
Mendocino, and two others of the northern counties,
got an act through the Legislature, and it became a
law, appropriating the State's portion of the poll-
taxes collected in the five northern counties for two
years, for the purpose of laying out and building
roads in those counties. The Board of Supervisors
28(j PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
in each county liad the appointment of commis-
sioners to lay out the money to the best advantage.
The Hon. George Williams, now of Ferndale, was
at that time one of the Supervisors of Trinity
count} , and owned a ranch in Hay Eork Valley.
He was anxious for the road to be (completed from
Hav Eork to A¥eavervillc. I had at the same time a
ranch also in Hay Eork Valley, and needed tlie road.
Tlie Board of Supervisors appointed Fordyce Bates
and myself as commissioners to lay out the money
so appropriated. The money, about twenty-eight
hundred dollars, was divided equally between Bates
and myself, each having about the same distance of
road to build. There were some sixteen miles of
mountain to grade over. I started a subscription
list and got nearly a thousand dollars subscribed
towards paying for tlie road. I had it properly
graded b}^ Henry Hart, the County Surveyor, and
then commenced work, and in about three months'
time I finished the road, leaving seven hundred
dollars in debt for the road.
The question then was, where was tlie money
coming from to pay this seven hundred dollars 1
Somebody proposed a grand ball to be given at
Douglas City, and the i^roceeds to be apjilied to
the payment of the debt. The plan was adopted,
and proved to be a complete success. I sold the
ball tickets at seven dollars and fifty cents each,
and after paying expenses I had a few dollars less
than seven hundred dollars with which to jiay the
debt.
THE BUILDING OF HIGHWAYS. 287
Bates got his end of the road built. Tliis gave a
road til rough the center of the county of about
sixty miles north and south. The other counties
received but very little value for their portion of
the appropriation. In Humboldt county I have
heard there were but six hundred dollars in the
fund, and that was spent by sending out commis-
sioners to view the road and report. Trinity was
the most populous of the five counties named in
the bill, hence her portion of the appropriation was
the largest. In early days we had no county funds
to draw on for roads or trails. Generally when a
trail or road was needed men went down in their
own pockets, or raised subscriptions, to build the
same. The early settlers had very crude ideas of
road-building in the mountains. The major
portion of the pioneers was from the AYestern
States, where they had no mountains to contend
with. They usually selected some creek-bottom or
gulch running in the direction in Avhich they
wanted to go, cut out the dead wood, and there
made trails or roads. When they got the trail or
road to the head of the creek they generally ran
into a mountain so steep that a squirrel would
have to " double teams" to carry a hickory-nut up
it ; then the next winter would fill the creek or
gulch up with dead timber, and wash the trails out
of sight. Thousands of dollars s^ient by early
settlers in this manner were just as good as thrown
away.
288 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXXII.
An Exodus of Miners. — Torrents and Floods.
Improvements in the methods of mining in California. — Characteristics
of the early miners. — The winter of 1861-2. — "Jeff Davis" and
the flood. — Immense losses.
In the year of 1858 Xortliern California got its
first back-set. In 1857 the mines on Erazer Kiver
were discovered, and reports of very rich and ex-
tensive diggings were circuhited all over California.
The shallow diggings and gulches in this State
were getting pretty well worked over; likewise the
river bars. Men had to work their claims more
systematically. The day had gone by Avhen a man
could go into almost any gulcli or bar, and set his
rocker, and make from five to twenty dollars per
day. It began to require more capital, and a dif-
ferent manner of working. Several high benches
or bars on the river were found to be rich, but
there was no Avater with which to work them. On
nearly every rifile on the Trinity River, for sixty or
eighty miles up and down the river, there were
large bucket- wheels built to raise the water. They
AN EXODUS OF MINERS — TORRENTS AND FLOODS. 289
were generally built on riffles, as tlie swift current
kept the wheels in good motion all the time. These
wheels were from twenty to forty feet in diameter,
and would raise quite a sluice-head of water, which
was conveyed to the claim in sluice-boxes or ditches.
The rocker and "long-torn" of the early miner were
now discarded. The ground-sluice and flume took
their place. It took considerable capital to work
such claims. Generally from two to ten thousand
dollars were spent before one dollar was realized,
and few of the miners j)ossessed that amount.
Many of the early miners saved but little. Too
many of them liked the monte-table and the bar too
well for their own good, and spent their dust as fast
as they took it out. With the news of the discov-
ery of rich diggings on Erazer River there com-
menced a " stampede " for the new diggings.
Every fellow that could sell his claim and tools,
and many that could not sell, but had sufficient
money to take them there, left expecting to find a
new California. It has always been one of the
drawbacks of the California miner that he was
always looking for something better. I have fre-
quently known miners that were making twelve or
sixteen dollars j)er day to pick up their tools and
blankets and start for some new gulch or flat that
had been recently discovered and was said to be
rich, but most of them did not better themselves.
The Erazer River excitement took from the coun-
ties of Shasta, Trinity and Klamath not less than
290 PIONITEE DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
one thousand miners who never returned. Shortly
thereafter the John Day River and the noi'thern
mines were discovered. Another rush then began
for these localities. Such was the miner's life. He
was alwa} s on the go, and was never contented.
He lived on excitement, and wandered from one
excitement to another. Yet to this class of men
the Pacific States owe a deep debt of gratitude.
To them the country owes its first explorations, ^o
section of the country was too distant for them
to penetrate. In their prospecting tours, no mount- ^
ains were too high for them to cross; no Indians so I
hostile that tliey would not venture amongst them.
If they found diggings, there they would stay until
some other of their kind penetrated into some yet
farther wilderness in search of the precious metals.
They seldom bettered their condition, but opened
the way for American civilization, and laid the
foundations of future States. Many of those brave
pioneers found their graves beside their lone cab-
ins in the northern mountains. Man}^ of them be-
came inmates of the county hospitals, and went to a
pauper's grave without even a slab to mark their
last resting-place. Such has been the fate of many
of the early pioneers of the Pacific Coast. They
sowed the seed for others to harvest, but seldom
reaped any benefit themselves, and grew old and
decrepit, poor in purse, and without a home or a
place to lay their gray heads in peace, and without
a wife or a child to droj) a tear or plant a flower on
AN EXODUS OF MINERS— TORRENTS AND FLOODS. 291
tlieir lonely graves. They deserve well of the nation.
Eroni Arizona's sun-bnrned mountains and plains
to Alaska's frozen streams and snowy mountains,
in every mining-camp over this vast domain, you
will find an old and gray Californian still in pur-
suit of better diggings, with his roll of blankets on
his back and sheath-knife by his side, his ever
faithful rifle on his shoulder, and still on the tramp
and hunting his " home-stake."
Well, to come back to Northern California. The
winter of 1861-2 was a hard one. Erom November
until the latter part of March there was a succes-
sion of storms and floods. I remember my being
in Weaverville, I think it was in the month of De-
cember, 1861. I had been summoned as a witness
at that term. Getting through with the court busi-
ness, I met J. A. Strudivant. He invited me to go
home with him to his place on Trinity Kiver, say-
ing that I would have so much less to travel the
next day. I accepted his offer, and at about 2
o'clock p. M. we started. It had been raining all
the day previous. The ground was covered with
snow one foot deep, and on the mountains nauch
deeper. We arrived at the ranch just before dark,
and I wanted to cross his bridge and stay at John
Carter's that night, but " Uncle " Strudivant would
not listen to any such thing. Stay with him I
must. He told me that tlie bridge was named Jeff
Davis, and that old Trinity could not carry enough
water to wash "Jeff" out, and that, besides, he
292 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
wanted to sliow me tliat night tlie error of my ways
in being a black Republican. AVell, against my
better judgment, I consented to stay with him.
Uncle Joe was from Arkansas, and a dyed-in-the-
wool secessionist. He had a private cottage a short
distance from the ranch and toll-house. It was
close to the foot of the mountain, the divide between
Weaverville and the Trinity River. After supper
Uncle Joe and I repaired to the cottage. After
building a fire and making things comfortable,
Uncle Joe commenced his proselyting. He and I
advocated our respective sides of the political issues
until 11 o'clock, when we " turned in." It rained
all afternoon and night. The weather had turned
warm, and the rain came down in torrents. Several
times I went to the door during our political dis-
cussion, and every time it seemed to be raining
harder, and I wished myself on the otherside of
Trinity Kiver. I frequently said, " Uncle Joe, I am
afraid the bridge will go." His reply was, " Jeff will
stand it." Once he said, " Kow, John, we Avill take
the bridge as an omen. If the bridge stands the flood
and comes out all right, we will take it for granted
that Jeff Davis and the Southern Confederacy will
come out all right. If it goes down the Trinity
River, then we look on the Southern Confederacy
as going to h — 1 a fluking." " All right. Uncle Joe,'
I rei)lied, " I will sympathize with you in the loss
of your bridge, but be rejoiced if it should prove a
true omen and " Jeff " should take a voyage down
AN EXODUS OF MINERS — TORRENTS AND FLOODS. 293
the river a fluking." We slej^t until about 4
o'clock in the morning, when Jeriy Whitmore, one
of Uncle Joe's partners, came to where we Avere, and
knocked on the door to wake ns up. Uncle Joe
called out, " AVhat is wanted!" Jerry replied, "The
bridge is gone — not a stick left, and the water will
soon be up to the house." Uncle Joe thought a
moment, and then, looking at me, said, " John, Jetf
Davis and the Southern Confederacy have gone to
h — 1 sure, and I know it." I felt sorry for the loss
of my friend's bridge, but if it was going to be a
forecast of the Southern Confederacy's fate, then I
could rejoice.
The water in the river had been rising all night,
and men were stationed on the bridge with poles to
keep logs from striking the i)iers. At about 4
o'clock in the morning a large sj^ruce tree came
down the river with roots, branches and all. The
men seeing it come, and knowing the bridge was
doomed, escaped from the bridge before the roots of
the tree struck it. It was well thev did, for one of
the men who were on the bridge told me next
morning that as soon as the tree struck the bridge
it went through it as if nothing had been in its way,
cutting it completely in two, and the whole struc-
ture fell into the river and was soon out of sight.
As soon as daylight came Uncle Joe and I went to
the ruins, ^ot a plank of the bridge was left. The
rain was yet j)Ouring down. The snow was nearly
all gone. Everything around the place looked des-
294 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
olate. On the flat where the house was built they
had the finest bearing orchard in Northern Cali-
fornia. If the river rose but a little more, the trees
Avould be swept away, and the house with them.
All the forenoon the river continued to rise, and at
last it be^an to spread over the orchard and wash
the black loam away. Einally, as the current be-
came stronger amongst the trees, one after another
began to fall, some floating off with the water, and
others hanging by the roots. Trinity that morning
was playing havoc with the settlers on its banks.
It was dreadful to look upon. Standing on high
ground, one could see j)roperty of all kinds on its
way to the ocean. T]ie river itself seemed like
some mighty uncontrollable monster of destruction
broken away from its bonds, rushing uncontrollably
on, and everywhere carrying ruin and destruction
in its course. When rising, the river seemed high-
est in the middle. When falling, it became lowest
in the middle, and all the drift worked toward the
center of the stream. When the river was at or
near its highest, one could see floating down parts
of mills, sluice-boxes, miners' cabins, water-wheels,
hen-coops, parts of bridges, bales of hay, household
furniture, sawed lumber, old logs, huge spruce and
pine trees that had withstood former storms for hun-
dreds of years — all rushing down that mad stream
on their way to the boundless ocean. Erom the head
settlement to the mouth of tlie Trinity River, for a
distance of one hundred and fifty miles, everything
AN EXODUS OF MINERS— TORRENTS AND FLOODS- 295
was swept to destruction. Kot a bridge was left, or
a minino-wheel or a sliice-box. Parts of ranches
and miners' cabins met the same fate. The hibor
of hundreds of men, and their savings of jears, in-
vested in bridges, mines and ranches, were all
swej)t away. In forty-eight liours the valley of the
Trinity was left desolate. The county never recov-
ered from that disastrous flood. Many of tlie
mining-wheels and bridges were never rebuilt.
I had to lie over for four days; I then swam my
horse across Trinitv Kiver about a mile above the
ranch, while I was taken across in a canoe by Cush
Given. The trail thence to Hay Eork was almost
completely washed away wherever Avashing was
possible. A few years previous Michael Kush and
others started a wagon-road nj) what was called
Stanmore's Gulch. They made it about four miles
up the gulch, and, running into a big mountain, left
oft" there. On my way to Hay Fork my way lay
through the Stanmore Gulch. When 1 arrived at
the gulch, expecting to find a passable road, there
was not a vestige of the road in sight. The gulch
was so filled with logs and drift-wood that it was
almost impassable. When I arrived home I found
that I had not escaj)ed a portion of the general
calamity. Part of my fence and about four acres
of my best bottom-land were gone. A number of
my cattle had succumbed to the storm. Taking it
in all, the winter of 1861-2 was the most disastrous
that Northern California has ever experienced
since its settlement by the Americans.
29G PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Sham Marriage and Duel.
A newspaper established at Douglas City. — Govvey and Hough and their
packer, Dusky. — Entrapping Dusky into a sham marriage. — The
sham duel that followed. — How a Jew got his finger bitten.
I think it was along in the winter 1859 when
Douglas City was quite pretentious. ISonie of its
citizens were in hopes that their burg would out-
rival Weayerville, and, to help build up the j)lace,
two enterprising citizens started a newspaper called
the Douglas City Oasette^ and edited and owned
by two respectable members of the large and in-
fluential Jones family. The Gazette became a great
favorite while it lasted.
If there is any one thing which the live Yankee
must have for his comfort and happiness it is his
newspaper. Deprive him of that, and you deprive
him of a large amount of his comfort in this world.
Well, this embryo city had its newspaper. A news-
I)aper without an editor is, like a church without a
preacher, of but very little account. The Douglas
City Gazette had an editor, and a lively one he was.
Douglas City had its stores and other business
A SHAM MARRIAGE AND DUEL. 297
lionses. At that time the largest firm in the city
was Gowey & Hough. They sold merchandise for
several miles np and down the river, and did a large
business. They kept a small pack-train running
for tlie delivery of goods to their customers, in place
of the delivery wagon of the present day. In their
store the miners would generally congregate in the
evenings, "swap lies" and "put up jobs" on some-
one, and the proprietors of the store were the worst
of the lot. The firm kept a packer named Dusky
to run their deliverv train. In some thinsrs Duskv
was not as sharj) as he might have been. He was
somewhat given to "blowing," and was a little soft
on the ladies. About this time there was living in
the city a grass-widow, a big, healthy Dutch woman.
Dasky became smitten with her, and was strongly
inclined toward matrimony. Hough learned of this
from the widow, and fixed up a scheme for Dusk} .
She agreed with Hough to have a mock marriage and
a general good time at Dusky's expense. Dusky, in
due time, ^Droposed to the grass-widow, and, of
course, was accepted. The Avedding was set. Dusky
invited his friends to the wedding feast, and the}^
were many. The happy day arrived, and all things
were ready, except that there was no one to j)er-
form the ceremony. Hough had promised Dusky
that he would secure some one for that purpose, but
forgot to do so. Some one spoke up and said that
John Estus, being a married man, had a right to
perform the marriage rite in the absence of a min-
298 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ister and justice of the peace. John said this was
true, and he then married the couple in due form.
After the ceremony, Dusky and his "bride" re-
ceived the congratulations of the guests. Hough
and Estus acted as master of ceremonies. If the
State had been searched from San Diego to Del
Norte, no two men could have been found more
worthy or better able to do honor to the occasion.
Wine flowed freely, and the health of the bride was
often toasted in flowing glasses. Everything passed
oif finely; but all things must come to an end. Mid-
night was near, and the marriage guests were tak-
ing their departure, most of them feeling the effects
of the wedding feast. Among the honored guests
was tlie editor of the Douglas City Gazette.
After the house was clear of the guests, the bride-
groom was congratulating himself and the bride on
the good time they had had. The wedding was
held at the house of the bride. After a time the
bride coolly remarked, " Mr. Dusky, I want to go
to bed, and it is time you were going home."
"HomeV rex^lied Dusky, in amazement; "this is
my home. Were we not married to-night 1 "
"No, we were not married," she replied. "The
boys and myself were having a good time at your
exj)ense; and don't you think we had itl The
whole affair was only a big joke on you." Dusky
had to travel back to his lonely bed at the store.
The next day Dusky was decidedly on the war-
path, threatening to kill Estus, Hough and a dozen
A SHAM MARRIAGE AND DUEL. 299
others. He had calmed down somewhat when the
Douglas City Gazette made its appearance on publi-
cation day, with a full and complete account of the
marriage and of Avhat a glorious time Avas had at
the wedding. This was the last straw that broke
poor Dusky's back, and blood he would have. His
friends advised him not to kill the editor like a dog,
but to give him a chance for his life ; like a true
Southern gentleman to challenge the editor to mor-
tal combat. Dusky was from Missouri, and the
j)roposal seemed to strike his fancy. He sent the
editor a challenge, and it was duly accepted. Hough
was Dusky's second, and I believe Estus was the
editor's. The day Avas set for the duel. They were
to fight with rifles at ten paces' distance. The fatal
day arrived. Both parties were punctual to the
minute. Dr. White was on the ground, ready to
render medical aid to both of the combatants if
necessary. It was winter, and the ground was
covered with snow. The combatants took their
stations ten paces apart, with their backs to each
other. At the signal, " One, two, three ! " they were
to turn and fire. When the signal was given, both
turned and fired. Dr. White stood near the editor.
The latter staggered and fell into the arms of his
second. Dr. White ran up to him and threw a lot
of red ink all over his shirt-bosom, to give the ap-
pearance of blood-stain. Hough said to Dusky,
"You had better be getting away as fast as 3 on can;
you have killed him, and they will hang you sure."
800 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Dusky made for the stable, and, saddling Hough's
saddle-horse, fled down tlie river as fast as the horse
could carry him. In the meantime the editor was
carried a short distance to his sanctum. His print-
ing office was in a big log-cabin, in one end of
which was his sanctum. He was carried and laid
on the bed, apparently in a dying condition. It
was now night, and watchers were needed. Many
of the boys did not know that the duel was a sham
one, and that the editor was "playing 'possum " all
the time. There was a little Polish Jew by the
name of Dowbroski who kept a watchmaker's shoj)
at Douglas City at that time. He Avas one of the
best and good-natured fellows that ever lived. He
and another man volunteered to watch by the
bedside of the wounded man and give the medicine
as directed. Dr. AVliite prescribed a teaspoonf ul of
brandy (under its Latin name) to be given every
ten minutes. About 10 o'clock the editor began to
get sleep}', and wanted to get rid of his watchers.
He got the lockjaw ; it was a bad case. He
moaned piteously. Dowbroski went to give
him his medicine, and found he could not
open his mouth, and remarked: "Poor fellow,
he is almost gone;" and then took a spoon-handle
and tried to pry the editor's teeth apart, so as to get
his fingers between the editor's teeth to keej) his
mouth open while taking his medicine. As soon as
Dowbroski got his fingers in the editor closed his
teeth upon them. Dowbroski yelled, "Mein Gott!
301 A SHAM MARRIAGE AXD DUEL.
Mein Grott ! Come here quick ! He bites mein
fingers off." Tliey got Dowbroski's fingers out of
the editor's mouth, and "Dob " went off to have his
finders dressed. The other watchers and the editor
took a drink of brandy all round.
Kext morning our editor appeared in his sanctum
as good as new.
What became of Dusky"? Hough, fearing that he
would lose his saddle-horse, after some days suc-
ceeded in finding where Dusky was, and sent him
Avord that the editor was all right and not much
hurt, and for him to come back and nothing would
be said about it. AVhen Dusky came back and
learned that the duel was a hoax, like the wedding,
he got completely disgusted and left the place.
He afterwards turned as an Indian fighter.
In one of the battles he got shot full of arrows.
Somebody asked him why he did not get behind a
tree. Dusky replied, " The trees had no behind to
them;" meaning that the Indians were all around
him.
302 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Attack on a Deserted Indian Rancheria.
Hostile Indians. — Calling out the troops. — John P. Jones goes to war in
a carriage.
In tlie summer of 1863 the counties of Hum-
boldt, Klamath, Del Norte and lower Trinity, were
overrun with hostile Indians. Eive or six com-
j)anies of volunteers were called out by Governor
Stanford to supj)ress them. Trinity county sent to
the field Oomx^any C, commanded by Captain Abra-
ham Miller, who joined the other trooj)s in the field
under the command of Colonel S. G. Whipple, op-
erating princij)ally in Humboldt and Klamath
counties, and on the lower Trinity. Word fre-
quently came to Hay Fork and Douglas City that
roving bands of liostile Indians had been seen near
the back settlements. The settlers were kept in
constant alarm. Just previous to this time tAvo
men had been killed, the mail-carrier and a soldier
by the name of Terry. A soldier by the name of
Orin Washington, belonging to the same company,
was badly wounded, but managed to escape and
reached the settlements. Uj)j)er Trinity had not
ATTACK ON A DESERTED INDIAN RANCHERIA. 303
been mncli troubled by tlie Indians since the
murder of John Anderson in 1852. In that year
they were defeated, and their strongest tribe was
annihihited at Bridge Gulch in Hay Fork Valley
by the avengers of Anderson. It was only roving
bands from distant parts of the country that
troubled the settlers. In 1863 the war sjiirit was
abroad in the land. Nearly ever}^ town had its
military company organized and ready for the field.
Douglas City was not behind in her military spirit.
The Douglas City B/ifles were ready for duty when-
ever called upon. They were commanded by Cap-
tain John Hough.
One day word came to Douglas City that one of
those roving bands of hostiles had been seen near
Clemmins' ranch, about four miles east of Douglas
City. It was rej^orted that they were to attack the
ranch that night. It was reported through the
town that Clemmins' ranch was about to be burned
by the Indians. The " long roll " of the company
was beaten, and soon the gallant sons of Mars were
gathered at their armory, ready for the fray. Word
in the meantime was sent to Weaverville, the
county seat, for John P. Jones, the Sheriff of the
county. He had the only authority to order out
the troops. The boys lay on their arms, waiting for
orders. About sunset the Sheriff made his appear-
ance in a two-seated carriage drawn by a pair of
white horses, accompanied by Egbert Allen, then
District Attorney for the county, and David E.
o04 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
Gordon, editor of the Trinity Journal. The com-
pany lost no time in getting ready to march to the
front. They were soon under way. At dark we
crossed Smith's bridge over the Trinity River and
the Portuguese claims. There was a large amount
of mining done on the east side of the river, and at
night it was difficult to get through the j^iles of
"tailings" and ground ditches that obstructed our
road. Yet we continued on our way like old veter-
ans, and overcame all obstacles, until we reached
Redding's Creek, where the road was good.
In the meantime our Sheriff in command was
riding as best he could in his buggy. The buggy
had side-lamps, which the Sheriff lighted that he
might better see the road. Here we were, on a
secret expedition, expecting to take the Indians by
surprise. The whole thing looked so ridiculous
that many of the boys had their little jokes over
that night's march.
About 11 o'clock we reached the ranch where
we expected to find the foe. Upon our arrival in
sight of the buildings, all was dark and still. The
occupants of the ranch had all retired, seemingly in
perfect security. The company halted, and an officer
was dispatched to the house to investigate and
wake up Mr. Olemmins, the owner of the ranch.
Cleinmins at last, after much knocking, made his
appearance, and inquired what the matter was, and
why he was disturbed in his j)eaceful slumbers. On
being informed of our errand, he replied that he
ATTACK ON A DESERTED INDIAN RANCHERIA. 305
liad seen no hostile Indians in or about tlie place.
The company was ordered into the corral for the
night. Guards were placed in true military style.
I happened to be Sergeant of the guards that night.
In the meantime the Sheriif had his white team
unhitched, and prepared to spend the night in the
midst of his soldiers. Nevada's future Senator
never did things by halves. In the buggy was a
demijohn full of Henry Hocker's best whisky. Be-
fore retiring the Sheriif called the boys round him
to j)artake of the contents of the demijohn, to which
call they sjieedily responded. Most of the bo} s
were very thirsty after their long march. After a
time the camp got quiet, and most of the soldiers
were in the land of dreams. I heard a voice crying,
"Sergeant of the guard! Sergeant of the guard!" I
being; that officer went immediatelv to see what the
trouble was. I found Sheriff Jones, Editor Gordon,
and District Attorney Allen lying alongside of
each other, stretched at full length in the middle of
the corral. I asked them what they wanted.
Sheriff Jones replied, " Sergeant, take a drink tirst,
and then we will give our orders." My reply was,
" Gentlemen, . good soldiers never drink when on
duty. Gentlemen, what are your wants '^ " Sheriff
Jones replied, "Sergeant, we want you to furnish
us a pillow each. This corral has no soft side to it."
" All right, gentlemen," I replied. " I suppose you
are not particular about what the pilloAVS are made
of 1 " " No," they replied. I then searched as Avell
306 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
as I could in tlie dark until I fouud three whole
"buffalo-chips." They were well dried. Taking
them in my arms, I went to my three heroes.
Telling each of them to raise his head, I j^laced one
of the " chips" under it, remarking, " It is the best
I can do for you, gentlemen." One of them re-
plied, "It beats h — 1 out of nothing." The order
was for the guard to wake the command at day-
dawn. About half a mile from the corral there was
an old Indian rancheria that sometimes was used
by Indians as a stopping- ]3lace. The rejjort in
some way originated that a number of Indians were
in the rancheria^ and we were to attack them at day-
break. As soon as light appeared in the east, I
awoke our sleeping braves. The order was given
to " fall in " and load with ball cartridge, and away
we went for the old rancheria. This was situated
on a large flat gulch east of Clemmins' house. It
was composed of ten or twelve bark lodges, conical
in shape. When we came in sight of it the com-
pany divided into three divisions. One division was
to cross the flat below the rancheria and get into
position on the other side. Another division went
to intercept the Indians if they ran up the gulch.
The remaining division was to attack from the
front. Tliis was the plan of battle made by our
officers.
As soon as each division arrived at its station, the
signal was given to begin the fight. The company
was armed with Mississipj)i " yagers " and sword
ATTACK ON A DESERTED INDIAN RANCHERIA. 307
bayonets. The order Avas to fire one volley, and
then to fix bayonets and charge. This order was
promptly obeyed. A deadly fire was poured into
the old bark lodges, and then the boys charged.
The three divisions met in the middle of tlie old
rancheria, with not a living or dead Indian in sight,
nor had there been an Indian there for three
months previous.
Well, we were a disappointed lot of fellows. I
have often thought since that time that the Doug-
las City Kifles were under the special care of a
kind, directing Providence. If it were not so, half
of us would have got badly hurt, for, owing to the
location of the ground and the position of the firing
parties, we were apparently firing into each other.
But none of us got hurt.
After this capture of the old rancJieria, we were
marched back to Olemmins' corral, where we found
that Sheriff Jones, Editor Gordon and Attorney Al-
len had retreated in good order to Weaverville before
hostilities commenced, taking with them all the
commissary stores, if any were left from the previ-
ous night. The order was given, "Break ranks,
and go as you please to headquarters at Douglas
City." I believe I was the last to arrive there,
making my appearance about 11 or 12 o'clock that
day, on a load of hay belonging to Mr. Clemmins.
Such Avas the battle of Clemmins' Hanch. Eor
years afterwards, if you wanted to get one of the
308 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Douglas City Kifles angry, all you had to do was to
say " Clemmins' Ranch " to him.
In Sej)tember, 1864, there occurred an unfortu-
nate Indian raid into Hay Eork Valley, throAying
a gloom oyer the yallc}', and causing the death of
John Hessig, a young man not oyer sixteen years
of age, the son of Mrs. John Francis, now of Hydes-
yille. John Erancis and young Hessig, with two
other men, Avere engaged in digging a water-ditch,
to bring water on their mining-claims situated in
Hay Eork Valley. They coming upon a large
boulder that had to be blasted, John Hessig went
to the camp for powder and a fuse. When near the
camp, he was shot by the Indians, who lay in am-
bush behind a log-cabin. John Francis was about
one hundred and twenty-fiye yards from Hessig
when he receiyed the fatal shot. The Indians see-
ing Francis, also took a shot at him. Their bullets
struck the ground about six inches from where
Francis was standing. John Hessig was a young
man of promise. He came to Weayerville with his
parents when a child, and was among the first chil-
dren of that town. He got his education at Weayer-
yille, and being well thought of by a large circle of
acquaintances, his death at the hands of the merci-
less savages threw a gloom oa er the whole county.
A small company of men started after the Indi-
ans, and trailed them for Hxe or six miles, when
they came to Ayhere the Indians had had a fight over
the plunder, and there they found a dead Indian.
ATTACK ON A DESERTED INDIAN RANCHERIA. 309
They tlien turned back, and the death of John
Hessig went unavenged.
The next raid made by the savages into the valley
was on October 13, 1868, when Thomas Burke was
killed by them, leaving a Avidow and tliree children.
Mrs. Burke is a sister of John Erancis, of Hvdes-
ville, and was formerly of Illinois. Her escape
Avith her two children seems almost miraculous.
Their place was situated on the wagon-road to
Weaverville, about one and a half miles above the
Oarr Ranch. Burke was working in the field
across the gulch from the house. The dogs all that
morning had been making a fuss, but Burke could
discover nothing wrong. He went to his work.
Mrs. Burke was dressing her two youngest children.
The oldest was then in Weaverville at school. Tlie
Indians made their appearance in the door and
ordered her off. She immediately took the two
children and ran out, hallooing to her husband for
help. She ran for the bridge that was across the
creek on the road, and there she met Mr. Burke on
the bridge. The Indians followed her down to the
bridge. Burke, upon meeting her on the bridge,
reached for one of the children, when he was shot
and fell dead over the end of the bridge. She then
fled Avitli her two children doAvn the road towards
Carr's Banch, the dogs keeping betAveen her and
the Indians. The Indians, it appears, did not Avish
to kill her. They told her to go on. She made
her Ava}' for nearly tAvo miles to the crossing of
310 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Carr's Creek, where she sank down exhausted.
There two teamsters, who were on their way to
Weaver\ ille with loads of grain, found her. They
immediately unhitched their teams and took her to
the town of Hay Eork.
A party started for the scene of the murder.
They found the body of Burke in the creek where
he fell, and his house robbed and burned. A com-
pany was organized, and started on the Indians'
trail; Steve Eleming as Oaj)tain, J. S. Hoit, N. B.
Earlin, William H. Rush, John Large, Orin Treat,
Josiah Drinkwater, Levi Good, John C. Post, M.
B. Myers, James S. Wilburn and John Kelly are
the names of the men Avho composed the company.
Oaj)tain Fleming followed the Indian trail to Big
Laribee Creek, where a fight occurred with the
Indians. The Indians retreated, and the volunteers
followed their trail by the blood. On the south
slope of Chalk Mountain, and near the X3lace where
the house of J. W. Maxwell now stands, Josiah
Drinkwater received a shot from a wounded Indian
lying behind a log, on the 26th of November.
Drinkwater was mortally wounded. The company
carried him to the house of Silas Hoglan on the
Yan Duzen, where he died on the 28th of No-
vember, 1868.
This was the last raid made, and the last of the
Indian troubles in Humboldt and Trinity counties.
The author is indebted to John Francis and
ATTACK ON A DESERTED INDIAN RANCHEUI A 311
I
Henry Feeiiaty, both of Hydesville, for tlie names
of the men who comi^osed Captain Eleming's com-
pany and the date of the occurrence.
312 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXXV.
Disadvantages of the Mail Service.
How the mail was carried from Hoopa to Weaverville in 1863. — A peri-
lous business. — Killing of Walter Van Arman, the carrier, by
Indians.
Any man can carry tlie mails over tlie mountain
trails now-a-days (if he is lucky enough to get a
contract), but it was not every man who wanted a
contract twenty-live years ago. But the mail bags
had to go and come, and some one had to " face the
music." Many a life was lost in this service in the
early days of California, the particulars of which
have never been told.
In 1863 there was a mail route from Eort Gaston,
Hoopa Yalley, to Weaverville. The Indians were
on the warj)ath; they had devastated the valley of
the Trinity ioy miles, had killed a good many whites
and Chinamen, and had determined to clear the
country of all intruders. Between Hoopa and
Weaverville they were especially bold and trouble-
some, and the mail-carrier had no picnic, as the
reader may easily imagine.
Walter Van Arman was the mail-carrier at that
DISADVANTAGES OF THE MAIL SERVICE. 313
time. On the 12tli of September, at 6 o'clock in
the evening, lie was to leave Eort Gaston, but,
owing to disturbances up the river, it was tliought
best to send an escort with him. Accordingly two
soldiers of Company 0, Eirst Battalion Mount-
aineers, were detailed. One of them tells the party's
experience as follows:
We left Eort Oaston at 6 o'clock that evening —
September 12th — and crossed the South Eork of the
Trinity about 11 o'clock. We passed Indian camps,
but the Indians Avere all asleep, and we didn't dis-
turb them. We reached Burnt Ranch at daylight.
Crossing the main river at Cedar Elat, we went up
the north side as far as Sandy Bar. As we came in
sight of the rocks at that point I told Yan Arman
the Indians were in there, sure. I knew it just as
well then as I did afterwards; I saw them. But
Yan said tliey Avere Chinamen, and we rode on.
Just as we got onto the bar, we got a volley from
the rocks, and Terry fell from his mule. He called
to me not to leave him, and Yan and I jumped off
from our mules and ran to him. Another volley
and we both got it — Yan Arman in the pit of the
stomach and I in the right side. Yan had held to
his bridle rein, so he mounted and rode up the trail,
bidding me good-bye as he threw the mail sacks to
the ground. Terry was dead. There was nothing for
me but to " hoof it," as my mule had fled with
Terry's. The Indians kept up their fire as I hob-
bled away, another shot taking effect in my right
314 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
thigh. After going a hundred yards or more I sat
down and tied up my wounds the best I coukl, for
I was bleeding a good deal. About four hundred
yards further up the trail I found Van Arman's
mule, but not Van Arman. Supposing he had gone
on, I climbed onto the mule and x^nshed on to Tay-
lor's Elat. Here I found only some Chinamen the
Indians had killed in the morning, and I didn't
stoj). I crossed the river here, headed for Little
Prairie, thus eluding two Indians who had followed
me, and who were soon after killed by McWhorter
at Oregon Grulch. The store and some houses at
Little Prairie had been burned the day before, and
I had to ride on to Cox's Bar before I could attend
to my Abounds, which ke])t me off duty for a year.
The people at Cox's Bar and all along the river
were in arms, and a company was organized at
Weaverville, headed by Bichard Clifford.
The next day a party of men going down the
trail, found a scrap of paper sticking in a stump
near where I found Van's mule. On it was written:
i WALTER VAN ARMAN, j
I Shot by the Indians, i
j Sept. i6, 1863. i
It seems he had gone up the hill, fully conscious
of his mortal wound, and had laid down and died
within sight of the trail, though his body was not
found until some time afterward. James Denny
DISADVANTAGES OF THE MAIL SERVICE. 315
found and buried the body at Big Flat. Terry's
body was found pinned to tlie ground with knives
taken from the Chinamen killed at Taylor's Flat.
After these Chinamen had been killed, the Indians
Avent to Drake's house and got breakfast. The
Indian, Big Jim, told me afterwards at Hoopa, that
they set the table for all hands — there were twenty-
one of them — and they rang the bell for breakfast.
xVfter that they fired the buildings, Drake's house
being the only one that didn't burn. It stands there
yet, a relic of early days.
16 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Pioneer Politics.
The Know-nothing party in California. — Its whole State ticket elected.
— The Democratic convention at Weaverville in '54 captured by
the Know-nothings. — An Irishman killed. — The lodge-room of the
Know-nothings collapses. — Ludicrous incidents.
After the election of Pierce and King, in 1852,
as President and Vice-President, politics in Cali-
fornia were very quiet. The overwlielming defeat
of tlie Whig candidates — Scott and Graham —
proved to be the death-knell of the Whig party,
which had out-lived its usefulness. But tliere
arose on its ruins tlie short-lived American or
Know-nothing party, which in 1854 SAvei^t the
State from Del Norte to San Diego, electing J. N.
Johnston Governor, with the whole State ticket
and a large majority of both houses of the
Legislature.
Trinity county had always been Democratic up
to this time. A nomination on that ticket was
equivalent to an election, and of course there was a
good deal of wire-pulling, trading and swaj)ping in
their contentions to obtain the nominations. I re-
member when the Democratic Convention was
PIONEER POLITICS. 817
called to meet in AYeaverville in 1854, at llie time
the Know-nothing party was organized in Trinity
connty. The organization was secret, no outsider
knowing anything of its working, or any of its
members. The question arose among the simon-
pure Democracy hoAV to keep the Know-nothings
out of the party. Fears were entertained that the
Know-nothings would capture the conyention and
haye things their own way, which fears were cor-
rect. Out of between fort}' or fifty members of the
conyention fully two-thirds were Know-nothings.
There were two candidates for the Legislature in
the field. W. W. Upton, who had acted with the
Democratic party up to that time and still professed
to be acting with it, and A. J. Felter, a resident of
Oregon Gulch, and a simon-pure Democrat — were
the two aspirants for Legislatiye honors before the
conyention. I had been informed by sood
autliority that AV. W. Upton was the Ivnow-noth-
ing candidate, and had receiyed their nomination
from ditferent lodges in the county. Tlie morning
the conyention was to meet I informed Felter of
what 1 had been told, and that I belieyed a majority
of the conyention were Know-nothings. He could
hardly realize it, as he knew all the members per-
sonally and knew them to be aood and sound Demo-
crats. I told him he would see for himself before
night. Well, the couA'cntion organized and Felter's
officers got left Avhen the nominations Ayere made.
Upton and Felter were placed in nomination, the
318 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
result of the ballot being that Felter got about one-
third of the votes and Upton got the other two-
thirds. There was one mad Democrat about that
time, and his name was Andrew Jackson Pelter.
His friends withdrew from the convention and held
one of their owu, and nominated him for the Legis-
lature. Eelter was badly beaten at the polls,
Oregon Gulch being the only precinct in the county
going Democratic. The Democrats were cleaned
out throughout the State as well as in Trinity
county.
About this time prejudice ran high against the
foreign-born citizen, and especially did the Irish
element come in for a good share of abuse. I re-
member a tragedy that took place one Sunday night
about this time. A large number of people were
in town, and a row was kicked up in a saloon kept
by a frenchman named Amanda. It appeared
that a free fight was going on, and in the melee an
Irishman (I have forgotten his name) had a bowie-
knife run into him twice, and he died almost im-
mediately. Next morning there was an inquest held
on the remains by 'Squire Connor, who summoned
a coroner's jury and examined some forty or fifty
witnesses, but none of them knew anything of the
killing. The jury remained in session for two days,
and at the end of that time they were no wiser than
when they commenced. No person seemed to know
who did the killing, yet there were seventy or
eighty persons in the saloon at the time, and the
PIONEER POLITICS. 319
saloon was a small building. During a residence
of nearly forty years in California and Arizona,
there never caine under my notice a jjarallel case
to this murder committed at Weaveryille in the
summer of 1855. The secret was well preserA'ed.
The victim was buried after the inquest, and in a
few days the affair was quite forgotten. A few years
after the occurrence, when politics had taken a dif-
ferent turn, it was several times hinted to me that
the murderer could be identified, but not sutficient
evidence could be had even then. Some of the
l^arties Avho testified before the coroner's jmy and
swore they knew nothing of the affair, hinted that
thev knew more than thev testified to when before
the coroner's jury. Such evidence would be of
little account, however, and the case was dropped.
During the years of 1854-5-6 the foreign-born citi-
zen w as a good deal below par, more especialh' the
Irish Catholic, or Pope's Irish, as they were then
called.
In the summer of 1855 there occurred an acci-
dent which came near creating serious conse-
quences. At that time there were very few two-
story buildings in Weaver ville, or second-story
apartments to let. There was a firm by the name
of Harris & Mitchell, carpenters and builders,
doing business in the tow n. Frank Harris was a
New Hampshire Yankee, and Archie Mitchell was
a good-natured Irishman. Harris was a member of
the Know-nothing j)arty, and he agreed to build an
320 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
npi^er story on their slio}) for a lodge-room. The
hoys agreed to pay big rent, and Archie submitted.
In the course of time the lodge-room was finished
and the boys moved into tlieir quarters all right.
The floor of the lodge-room Avas well covered with
sawdust in order to deaden the sound. They met
there several evenings, and all went smoothly until
one Saturday night. Saturday night and Sundays
nearly all of the miners Avould come to town to
hear the news, get their papers and mail matters,
and such other things as they might need during
the coming week. My dwelling-house was but a
short distance from Harris & MitchelVs shop, where
the boys were having their meeting. On the afore-
said Saturday night — a beautiful moonlight even-
ing — about half-past 8 o'clock, iny wife and myself
were sitting on the porch enjoying the cool of the
evening, when suddenly we were startled by a
great noise which appeared to come from the Know-
nothing lodge. Looking in that direction I saAv
that the lodge-room had caved in and was envel-
oped in a cloud of sawdust. I started immediately
for the wreck — it took but a short time to get there.
Just as I got to the end of the building the first
man came out — it Avas Jesse S. Pitzer, making for
his home, minus a hat, with his hair all full of saw-
dust. I Said to him :
" Jesse, are you hurt"? " He made no answer, but
broke for his house, which was but a short distance.
The next fellow I saw was Judge Turner.
■^
PIONEER POLITICS. 321
" Is that yon, Judge Turner — are you liurt^ "
'' Ko, it is not me. Eor heaven's sake give me a
hat and never say you saAV me here."
He took my hat and then broke like a quarter
horse for the lower end of the town, through piles
of gravel and tailings. By this time I made my
way into the ruins. The building had spread apart
and let down the second floor, sawdust, KnoAv-
nothings and all. Such a scrambling to get out
and get away from everybody, I never saw before.
By this time the crowd began to gather, clearing
up the ruins and taking account of the killed and
wounded. We found three men hurt — two of them
not seriously, but one, George Sherburne, had his
arm broken and was made a cripple for life.
After helping at the ruins I went down town —
the defunct lodge Avas situated on Court street, while
"down-town" was along on Main street. I visited
some of the saloons to hear the news and see what
was up. There was some tall swearing, and some
heavy threats, if they could find the d — d Irishman
that weakened the building and let the floor down.
Many of the boys thought Archie Mitchell had a
hand in the business, but Erank Harris, his part-
ner, belonging to the Know-nothings, and Mitchell
having many friends and known to be a good hon-
est man, the accusation was dropped and the boys
came to the conclusion that it Avas the fault of the
building.
Jesse S. Pitzer got the nomination for District
X
322 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Judge and my friend Turner was left out in the cold,
and I was niinns a hat. Pitzer, up to this time,
had been one of the leaders of the Democratic
l^arty, but when it was found that he had deserted
the Democratic party they commenced to look for
a candidate to defeat Pitzer. Their choice fell upon
James Hanna of Humboldt county. Although a
life-long Whig, Mr. Hanna was known to be op-
posed to the Know-nothing movement. He receiA'ed
tlie nomination of the Democratic party and can-
vassed tlie district, but was beaten by Pitzer the
same as all other candidates on the Democratic
ticket. Judge Pitzer served but a short time, when
he resigned.
I did not meet Judge Turner for several jears
after the fall of the Know-nothing lodge-room. I
had moved to Eureka in 1806. Standing in ni}'
shoj) door one day talking to my partner, he re-
marked:
" Here comes Judge Turner ! I will introduce
you to him."
" I had the honor of the Judge's acquaintance
many years ago," said I as we shook hands.
" I do not remember you," he said, after looking
me over; "at what place were we acquainted*?"
" Sir, you owe me a new hat that I lent you
many years ago, and this is the first time I have
seen you since."
" I do not understand — please explain," said the
Judge.
PIONEER POLITICS. 323
".Judge, yon were in Weaverville in the ^ear
1855."
" Yes sir, I was."
" Do yon remember the night the KnoAV-nothing
lodge coUapsed^ — do yon remember meeting a fel-
low as yon were getting out of the rnins the back
way, minus a hat, and your coat and hair all filled
with sawdust, and yon begged the fellow's hat from
himV'
" T belieye I do."
" And yon neyer returned that hat."
The Judge looked at me for a moment and said:
" Look here, my friend, if you neyer say any-
thing about that hat I will furnish you all the hats
you want for the next ten years."
During Know-nothing times many amusing
things and incidents took place. There was a fel-
low by the name of Xed Xugent mining on Sidney
Hill. Ked was a Yankee Irishman, born in Maine,
but as Irish as Paddy's brogue ; small of stature but
large of combatiyeness. When he came to town
Ked generally got drunk, and either got licked him-
self or licked some one else — generally the former.
IS^ed became a Know-nothing, and as zealous in the
cause as any son of the Puritans. I was passing
by Sam Krider's saloon one eyening, and hearing a
row I stepped in to see see what the fuss was about.
There was Ised standing in the middle of the floor
and a lot of fellows standing around him. Ned was
cursing the Know-nothings good and strong for not
324 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
coming to his assistance when he gave the sign of
distress. He had got whipped, and none of his
Know-nothing brothers would take it up for him.
There was an Irishman in the crowd who was about
three sheets in the wind, and when he heard Ked
cursing his brothers, Mike staggered out in front of
him and said :
"Ned, be gub, that's a lie of yours. As soon as I
saw the sign of distress didn't I rush to your assist-
ance like a man, and so I did ! " The thing looked
so ridiculous that it set the boys all in a good
humor. Somebody j>roj)osed the drinks, and there
the matter ended.
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. 325
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Formation of the Republican Party.
The City of Sacramento the first in California to go Republican. — The
rule of the Southern element in the State. — Organizing a Fremont
and Dayton club in Weaverville. — A Republican speaker " egged."
— Doctor O. J. Gates "fighting mad." — The " border ruffians." —
Frank M. Pixley's speech. — Threats of intimidation. — Marching to
the polls.
The Kansas and IS^ebraska act knocked the life
out of the Know-nothing party in California. As
soon as the passage of that act was known, men be-
gan to take sides on the slavery question — Northern
men with the ISTorth, Southern men with the South.
I well remember, just after that memorable fight
for the organization of the House of Rej)resentatives
in 1855, which resulted in the election of X. P.
Banks as Speaker, that 0. P. Rice, John Cole and
myself were on our way from Weaverville to Shasta
on business. We stopped at a wayside tavern for a
drink — nearly everyone drank more or less at that
time — and on entering the bar-room some of the
party asked:
" What's the newsV
" Bad ! very bad news froiii Washington," said
V
326 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the landlord. " Tbatd — d black Republican, Banks,
is elected Speaker of tlie House, and the country is
going to b — 1 a fluking! "
We looked at eacb other, and filling and touching
our glasses in the old familiar way, Kice said:
" Here's to the black Republican, N. P. Banks,
and the men that elected him!"
The landlord gave us an angry look, and said he
didn't think there were any black Republicans in
California. The re^ily was, that when the proj)er
time came he would find plenty of them.
About this time the City of Sacramento held
her municipal election, and, with the assistance of
sore Democrats, the Republicans elected tlieir
ticket. If my memory serves me right, to the City
of Sacramento belongs the honor of being the first
city of the State to give the first Rejjublican victory.
My business called me to Auburn, in Placer county,
and all the talk a person could hear was, " N. P.
Banks!" and "the black Republican ! " or "the d — d
black abolitionist! "
After my return from Auburn I stopped for a
short time at Sacramento, putting up at the West-
ern House. One of my children became sick, and
not caring to travel with a sick child, I concluded
to lay over at Sacramento for a few days. I called
in Dr. Harkness, then a practicing physician in the
city, to attend to the child. In conversation with
the doctor I found him like m 3 self, an ardent Re-
publican, and we were mutually glad to know each
FORMATION OF THE R'^ZPUBLICAN PARTY. 327
other. He requested me to go ATith him and he
woukl make iue acquainted with some of the Re-
publicans of Sacramento. I went with him to the
office of Cornelius Cole —then a j^oung lawyer of
the city, and afterwards a United States Senator —
Avhere I was introduced to many of the Republi-
cans of Sacramento. It was there agreed that when
I went home I would do all I could to organize the
Republicans in Trinity county. After seyeral meet-
ings and lots of good Republican advice and coun-
sel, 1 accepted the mission, ^o young ordained
missionary to the heathen eyer accej)ted his calling
with more zeal to convert the lieathen, than I did
mine to spread the doctrine of free soil and free
men. I had taken my political lessons from Seward,
Greele}' and Wendell Phillips, and men of their
stripe — lessons that I never had reason to go back
on to this day. Well, after a short stay at Sacra-
mento my child got better and we started for home
in Trinity. After arriving home I declared myself
a black Republican, and commenced proselyting.
Then commenced my political troubles. Several
of my warmest friends were men of Southern birth,
and very much oi)posed to anything that interfered
with the sacred institution of slavery. One of them
— J. C. Burch, afterwards a member of Congress —
told me he hoped there would be one county in the
State that would not disgrace herself by casting a
Republican vote, and he hoped Trinity would be
that county. I told him that, if I lived until elec-
328 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
tion diiy, Eremont and Dayton would get one vote
at least, and that vote would be mine. They then
commenced different tactics, and tried boycotting.
Some of them went to men who were patronizing
me, and informed them, if they did not take their
work from me, they would not patronize tliem —
one iirm in particular, Ooinstock & Martin, that
was running a livery stable. John Martin told me
his answer to them was: "You can go to h — 1
with your patronage. I will patronize whom I
please, and if you don't like it you need not patron-
ize this 'shebang!'" John then informed me that
black Kepublicanism came too near home to him,
as his father and brothers were all Republicans at
home in Maine. Up to this time the Southern
element had ruled in California.
Xo man could get a nomination on either ticket
unless he was known to be "sound on tlie goose;"
or, in other words, if he was known to have any
free-soil sentiments he was spotted at the ballot-
box, and likewise socially.
I remember one old gentleman by the name of
Lathrop, that started a garden at the moutli of
Weaver Creek. The old man was an abolitionist,
and was the talk of the whole camp for his assur-
ance in expressing himself as such. When speak-
ing of the Republicans the rough element would
generally call them thieving, black Republican s. o.
b.'s; but the more refined would often say:
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY 829
"John, I like you as ii iniiu, but d — ii your
politics!"
Such were the trials and scoffs borne by the early
Republicans of California. We had to take more
scoffs and ieers tlian the Salvation Army of the
present day.
But to come back to proselyting. I was like the
most of missionaries; I made but little lieadAvay at
first. Sometimes a fellow Avould come into the shox^
and call me aside to ask, in a low tone of voice, how
tlie Republican j)arty Avas getting on. My answer
would be:
" Eirst-rate — don't you want to join a Fremont
and Dayton club] "
" AVell, I don't know as I want to just now — I
may after awhile. That is my way of thinking,
you bet! "
I had bought me some blank club headings from
Sacramento, and when I got a fellow like the above,
I would draw my club-roll on him, and in most
cases he would sign it. When, by hard work and a
good deal of talk, I procured fifteen names to my
club-roll, I thought it about time to organize, and
notified each member to meet at my shop on a cer-
tain night after 9 o'clock for the j)urpose of organ-
izing and electing the club officers.
The boys responded, every one being present.
The shop doors were locked, and the club proceeded
to elect its officers and get to work, each member
agreeing to do all he could honorably for the elec-
330 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
tion of John C. Eremont and W. L. Dayton as Pres-
ident and Vice-President of the United States. The
Avriter of this article was elected tirst president of
the club. In the meantime onr Republican friends
at Sacramento had requested me to forward to them
the names of men that were likely to become Re-
publicans, that they might furnish them Republi-
can literature. To this work the club devoted itself
vigorously, besides extending the membershix? of
the club.
About this time the organization at Sacramento
sent a young man by the name of AVheelock to our
section of the country to helj) organize. He brought
letters of introduction to me, directing me to give
him all the assistance in my poAver to forward the
work.
I called the club together, and we discussed the
matter as to whether it was best to hold a public
meeting or not. The club voted to hold the meet-
ing, and we procured Clifford's hall for the i)urj)ose.
The meeting was organized about 8 o'clock in the
evening, and quite a crowd had assembled. I was
informed that there was likely to be trouble, and
my friends advised me not to go there. I called
the meeting to order, and was elected to preside. I
introduced the speaker, stating the object of the
meeting. When Mr. Wheelock commenced speak-
ing, some of the crowd began yelling and stamping,
with cries of " put the d — d black Republican out!"
" Tar and feather him!" and such like talk. About
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. 331
this time some one in the crowd commenced throw-
ing eggs at the speaker. Wheelock kept his temper,
and rej)lied, " I like eggs, but I prefer them in a
little diiferent style." Dr. O. J. Gates, now of
Eureka, stood it as long as he could, and then com-
menced on the disturbers of the j)eace. He told
them they were cowardly ruffians, and he could
whip any four of them any way they had a mind
to fight him. He talked to them of their high-
toned chivalry and boasted courage in attacking
one single man, and he a stranger in their midst.
The doctor talked fight, and he meant it, too. I
have known him for thirty-six years, and that was
the only time I remember to have seen him fighting
mad.
As soon as the trouble quieted down a little, I
told the disturbers of the meeting that those eggs
would soon hatch, and that each one would bring-
forth a Republican chicken. The words were pro-
phetic. Wheelock finished his speech without
further interruption that night. The Trinity
Journal (edited and published by David E. Gordon
and E. J. Curtis) was not backward in publishing
this outrage as a disgrace to Weaverville and a blot
on the name of free speech in America.
Such were some of the tactics that the opponents
of the Rej)ublican party used to suj)press it in its
infancy in California. Weaverville was not the
only town or city where eggs were used to break up
Republican meetings. At the capital of the State,
832 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
if my memory serves ine riglit, .Judge Tracy — one
of the first men of tlie State — was served in like
manner. Even the immortal and eloquent Baker,
who, a few years later, laid down his life at Ball's
Bluff that the Republic might live, could not ad-
dress a meetins; of his fellow-citizens and Ameri-
cans without being insulted and his meeting dis-
turbed. The same element was using the same
tactics that they used two years previous in Kansas,
and with no better results. They did not frighten
or bulldoze the people of Kansas, nor yet the people
of California.
After the meeting we began occasionally to re-
ceive letters from some of the outside precincts, en-
couraging us in Weaverville to go on with the good
work, and not allow a few eggs in the hands of
the "border ruffians," as they were then called, to
deter us. We received letters from such men as
John F. Chillis, of Minersville — afterwards Lieu-
tenant-Governor on the ticket with Governor
Stanford, and my life-long friend, Ered Leech of
Junction City and now of Bohnerville, in this
county. ]\Iajor Price of Canyon City, although a
Southern man by birth and education, was one of
the pioneer Kepublicans of Trinity county, and did
good service in the early days of the Rej>ublican
party.
Things went on fairly well for a time, but nearly
every day a Bej)ublican would hear insulting re-
marks and jeers thrown at liim continually. About
FORMATION OF THE KEPUBLICAN PARTY. 080
this time the State Central Committee Avas getting
down to its work in good shape, sending out speak-
ers to stump the State — some of tlie ablest speakers
of the State taking the stump for Fremont and
Da^'ton. Amongst the number was Erank M.
Pixley of San Francisco, now editor of the Argo-
naut. At that time Pixley was in the full vigor of
manhood, and one of the best stump speakers I ever
had the pleasure of listening to. Pixley was billed
for the IS^orthern part of the State, and took in
Trinity county as part of his territory. Word was
sent to the Republicans of Weaverville that the
Hon. Frank M. Pixie v would address the citizens
of Weaverville on a certain day, and we advertised
the meeting throughout the county as well as pos-
sible, for at that time the facilities for advertising
were not so good as they are at present. Pixley
arrived in due time, but his rej)utation got there
ahead of him, which was to the effect that he would
not stand any nonsense, and that roughs interfering
with him generally got the worst of it. He was
j)rox)erly received by the Fremont and Dayton club,
Avhich then had increased to twentv-tive or
thirty members. Charley Thomas' theater was
procured to hold the meeting in. It would seat
six or seven hundred people, and was well filled on
the occasion. In due time the meeting was organ-
ized and the sj^eaker introduced, but the applause
was very faint. Pixley then commenced his speech
of nearlv two hours' duration — one of the most
334 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
logical and convincing arguments in favor of free
soil and free men that it was ever my good fortune
to listen to. Only twice was he interrupted during
the whole time he was speaking — his sallies of wit
and good humor soon put a stop to the interrup-
tions. One of the interruptions ap]3eared to come
from some fellow in the middle of the house, who,
from his manner of speech, appeared to be an Irish-
man. Pixley stopped a moment and straightened
himself up; then, sticking his thumbs into the arm-
lets of his vest and pointing his finger in the
direction of the disturber, said :
" That fellow that interrupted me appears to be
an Irishman! Now, sir, if it were not for that
ship-load of potatoes my father helj)ed to send over
to old Ireland in 1846, during the famine, you
would not be here to-night disturbing an American
addressing his countrymen! You would have
starved to death, as you deserved!"
No more interruptions from that part of the
house. The evening was quite warm and the win-
dows were raised in order to give the audience fresh
air. Some fellow outside came up to one of the
windows, and, without showing himself, commenced
braying like a jackass. Pixley heard him through,
and then said, in his sarcastic way:
" Balaam's ass has spoken. No, it was not
Balaam's ass that sjioke; we will not insult Ba-
laam's ass by comparing that ass at the window to
him. Balaam's ass was a brave one; he spoke out
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. 335
what lie meant, and was not afraid to show himself,
but that ass at the window is too big a coward to
show himself."
That was the last interruption that night. Pix-
ley's speech set men to thinking, and did a good
deal of good. We had no other speakers during
the campaign, but the club worked hard. The
other parties — the American and Democratic —
seemed to have forgotten their animosities. In
order to humiliate the black Eepublicans they
seemed to pull together. Two years previous the
American and KnoAv-nothing party had swept the
State, electing their Goyernor— J. Neely Johnson —
and all the State officers, with both branches of the
Legislature, which made the supporters of Eillmore
and Donelson quite jubilant and sure of carrying
the State for the American ticket that fall. They
coiinted without their host, as we Republicans
frequently told them. We said to them, " A great
majority of the men of Southern procliyities who
acted and yoted with your party two years ago, will
yote for Buchanan and Breckenridge, and leave you
Northern Know-nothings to vote for Eillmore and
Donnelson, and then laugh at your gullibility." It
turned out about as was i)i'edicted. Buchanan
carried the State, and Eillmore came out only sec-
ond best. Many of the men who voted for Eill-
more declared themselves Republicans after elec-
tion. But I am getting ahead of my time — let us
come back to the election.
336 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Word was brought to the Republican club that
no black Kepublicans would be alloAved to cast a
vote for Ereniont and Dayton in Weaverville on
the day of the election; if they did, or attempted to
vote, a few of them would get badly hurt. I called
the club together, and we discussed the reports
that were in circulation. The club voted unani-
mously tliat it was " vote, and liglit if necessary,"
recommending that each member arm himself, and
be on hand at 2 p. m., and march to the polls in a
body. The polls were held in the old court-house,
at the liead of Court street. The club then num-
bered between fifteen and twentv members, and
was composed of men who knew their rights, and
had the courage to maintain them.
Election day arrived and the polls were duly
opened, but no Kej)ublican was appointed on the
election board — not even a clerk up to 12 o'clock ;
no Republican at the polls, and the chivalry began
to think their threats were having the desired
effect. Several men came to me and wanted to
know if the Republicans were scared off, or if they
were going to allow the border ruffians to succeed
with their threats. After 1 o'clock the Rex3ublicans
began to gather at the place designated. At 2
o'clock every member was on the ground, well
armed, and with a full determination not to inter-
fere with any man's rights or allow any man to
interfere with ours. The club fell in line and
marched to the polls. On arriving at the polling
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. 337
place we found fully t^YO linndred men gathered
around. There were about a dozen men standing
apparently in front of the window where the judges
received the tickets. Those at the head of the club
marched up as near to the window as possible,
waiting for their turn to cast their votes. Mr. Tur-
ner was judge of the election. He politely requested
the ijersons who were obstructing the passage to
the window to step back and allow the voters to
come uj) and vote. Three or four of them stex)j)ed
aside. Being president of the club, I said:
" Gentlemen, we came here to vote, and we are
going to vote — peaceably if we can, or fight if we
must! But we want you all distinctly to under-
stand that we are going to vote ! "
They all stej)j)ed out of the way, except one fel-
low by the name of Lyman Pruit. He said he was
there to challenge the votes, as he had a right to do.
I replied that we would not dispute his right. I
then stepped to the window and offered my vote.
My friend Pruit said:
" I challenge that vote! "
This was before the law was passed compelling
voters to fold their ballots before going to the polls.
Before handing my ballot to the judge I unfolded
it and told my friend Pruit to read it if he could
read.
" If you can't read it I will do it for you," said I.
" You see the names of John 0. Eremont and W,
L. Dayton on it don't you^ I believe you are one
338 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
of tlie men wlio made the boast that no bLack Re-
publican should vote here this day; but black Re-
publicans vote this day for Fremont and Dayton!"
Mr. Turner, the Judge, asked Fruit on what
grounds the vote was challenged. Pruit replied:
"On the ground that it is unconstitutional for a
black Republican to vote in California!"
"Is that all the grounds you have for your chal-
lenge, Mr. Pruit?" asked Mr. Turner.
" Yes, and that is plenty."
" Then," Mr. Turner replied, " if that is all, 1
guess black Republicans have the right to vote in
California," and in went the ticket — the first Re-
publican vote cast in Weaverville.
By a previous arrangement made before going to
the polls, when one of our number voted he stepped
to one side of the ranks until another voted, and he
stepped on the other side, and so on until all had
voted; then the club quietly marched down town
and were not further molested. Many told me if it
had not been for the manner the club chose of vot-
ing, and the bold front that was put on, there would
have been serious trouble at the polls; but the
border-ruffian crowd saw very plainly that they
would have to take some lead as well as give it,
and they concluded to let the" nigger- worshij)pers "
vote in peace. And it was well they did.
After the polls were closed a friend named Chap-
man called and congratulated the club on its man-
ner of conducting its business, and informed me
FORMATION OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. 339
that he was at the head of forty or fifty good and
true Americans, and said, if the Republicans had
been molested in their rights as American citizens,
they would have taken a hand in the aifray, closing
with the remark: "We won't stand any border-
ruffians in California." But, thanks to a kind
Providence, the election passed off quietly — and I
do not remember even one fist-fight taking place
that day.
Well, the result of the election was, as all read-
ers knoAV, that Buchanan carried the State, with
Eillmore second, and our candidate — Fremont — last
in the race. California polled something over
twenty-two thousand votes, and Trinity county
about one hundred and seventy votes. Seventy-
four Republican votes were j)olled in Weaverville.
So much for a beginning. Many more votes would
have been polled, but men were afraid to vote their
sentiments, threats of all kinds being made against
those who would dare vote the black Republican
ticket.
When we look back, after a lapse of nearly thirty-
four years, and take into consideration that band of
twenty-two thousand fearless and freedom-loving
American citizens Avho voted for Eremont and
Dayton in 1856, amidst jeers and threats and boy-
cotts and rotten eggs, and in danger of mobs which
often occurred, without any hope of future reward,
we can see that duty and a keen sense of justice
induced them to follow the new light; that no re-
340 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
wards or promises of fat offices, either civil or mili-
tary, were needed to prompt such men to duty.
Kobly did they perform it. They planted well, and
the crop has been harvested sooner than many of
us expected. I often wonder how many of the old
pioneer Republicans of California are now in the
land of the living, and how many of them are now
residents of this State. Many of them laid down
their lives on the battle-fields of the Re])ublic, that
their country might live. Among them was the
gallant and eloquent Baker, who, while leading his
Calif ornians against their country's foes, was cruelly
sacrificed at Ball's Bluff in 1861, with many other
brave boys from our Golden State.
FIRST REPUBLICAN STATE TICKET- 341
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
First Republican State Ticket. — Effort to Divide the State.
The candidates for Governor. — Pistol politics. — John B. Weller's speech.
—The two wings of the Democratic party. — Duels. — Slaves in
California. — " Virginia poorhouse." — Broderick and Gwin.
After the Presidential election in 1856, things in
the political line went on smoothly for a time, the
Republican party gaining strength slowly but
surely. The next contest was to be for Governor
and State officers, in 1857. The Republicans of the
State had but little hope of winning anything; but
they put on a bold front, called a convention and
nominated Edward Stanley for Governor, with a
full State ticket. Mr. Stanley was a Southern man
by birth, a ^"orth Carolinian, and had, I believe,
been Governor of his native State and a mem-
ber of Congress. He was a lawyer, and stood at
the head of his profession; a man of pure and spot-
less life, and an ardent and enthusiastic Republi-
can. The Democrats nominated John B. Weller,
one of the leading Democrats in the State, and a
native of Ohio. Bowie was the American party's
nominee for Governor, but he cut a small figure,
342 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
although polling more votes than Edward Stanley,
the Republican nominee. The Democratic fight
was to down the black Kej)ublicans, or " nigger-
worshippers " as they were frequently called, and
often they were termed the " sectional party."
Here A\ere two men leading their respective
parties — John B. AVeller at the head of the pro-
slavery Democratic part} , born and reared in free-
soil Ohio, and Edward Stanley, born and reared in
pro-slavery ^orth Carolina, leading the Kepublican
free-soil party in California. This was an anomaly
that I do not believe had a parallel in any other
State in the Union.
In 1857 I had removed to Sonoma county, and
was residing in the city of Petaluma. John B.
Weller was stumping the State, and delivered one
of his pro-slavery sj)eeches in that city. Sonoma
county at that time was the banner Democratic
county of the State, most of its early settlers having
come from the border Southern States and being in-
tensely j)ro-slavery in their politics. The name of
" black Rej)ublicans " stunk in their nostrils worse
than that of a horse-thief. Petaluma at that time
was the principal city or town of tlie county. There
was quite a number of Republicans in the place,
and a small organization was kept up. A number
of tlie business men were Rei)ublicans, but would
not join the organization for fear of their business
being injured.
But let us come back to John B. Weller's speech.
FIRST REPUBLICAN STATE TICKET. 348
From the time lie mounted the rostrum for nearly
two hours he poured into the Kepublican ranks
such a tirade of abuse as I think has never been ex-
celled in the State. To the American party he had
very little to say, but advised every man that was
formerly a member of tliat party, if they were true
Americans, to come over to the Democratic party
and save their countrv: which advice I believe
nearly every one of Southern birth acted on, leav-
ing the Northern men who were not Rex)ublicans
to vote alone for Bowie — the same old trick they
j)layed on them two years previous in the Presi-
dential election. Weller made at the close of his
speech a powerful appeal for all Democrats to stick
to their ticket and not to scratch a single name. He
remarked that "no good Democrat ever scratched
his ticket," and some one in the crowd asked him if
he was going to vote for himself.
"Yes sir, I am; I always vote for the best man,
and when I vote the whole of the Democratic
ticket I know I am voting for the best men."
If I remember correctly, neither the Republican
nor the American party sent any man into Sonoma
county — it was hopelessly Democratic. They sent
their vSj)eakers into counties where they thought
they could do some good. During the war Sonoma
county Av ould, at every election, roll up her usual
Democratic majority — from ten to sixteen hundred.
Well, in due time the election came oif, the
Democrats, us usual, making a clean sweep, elec-
344 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFOENIA.
ting John B. Weller Governor, and Joseph
Walkiq), of Placer county, Lieutenant-Governor,
and both the Congressmen. Both branches of the
Legislature were largely Democratic. If my
memory is not at fault, San Erancisco elected a
few Republican members, and some of the mining
counties elected a few Americans or Know-noth-
ings. Such was the state of politics in California
in 1857.
On the assembling of the Legislature tlie chivalry
wing of the Democratic party had control of both
branches, with the Governor and Lieutenant-Gov-
ernor. The two Congressmen elected were Scott
and McKibbin. Scott was a "chiv." of the first
water, while Joe McKibbin was rather on the free-
soil order— a friend of D. C. Broderick. At this
time, and for several years previous, there were in
the Democratic party two factions that hated each
other with as deadly a hatred as ever existed be-
tween Guelph and Ghibelline, and ready to spring
at each other's throats on the slightest provocation.
I have made reference to the chivalry wing of the
Democrats — led and controlled by such men as
Gwin, Weller, Terry, Latham, Burch, Scott and
men of their political opinions— who set up the
divine institution of slavery as the summit of all
earthly blessings, and when in power their votes
and influence were used to propagate and help it.
California was only secondary in their minds and
affections. The other faction were known as Brode-
FIRST REPUBLICAN STATE TICKET. 345
rick Democrats, men avIio did not fall down and
worship Baal. They were generally men from the
free States, and led and controlled by such men as
D. C. Broderick, Joseph McKibbin, John Bigler,
John CurrA' and Democrats of that stripe. There
was a tierce war carried on between these factions,
from the formation of the Constitutional Convention
which gave California her free Constitution, down to
tlie day that the fatal dueling pistol in the hands of
Judge Terry took the life of that Democratic cham-
pion of the people's rights, David C. Broderick. For
ten years this fierce war of Democratic factions was
waged within its organization, each party trying for
supremacy. The lamented Broderick was not the
only one that fell by their factional fights. State
Senator William I. Furguson fell by the duelist
bullet of George Pen Johnson, in the 3 ear of 1858.
Furguson was one of the rising young men of the
State, and, as in the case of his friend Broderick, a
quarrel was sought with him. While in San Fran-
cisco he was challenged by Johnson, a well-known
duelist. F^urguson had to be got out of the way —
he knew too much about their bargains and sales;
it would never do to let his evidence come before
the people of California at the j)olls. It was said at
the time that Furguson was personally knowing to
some very dirty jobs between the factions. Yet,
with all their family quarrelings and deadly hatred,
just before election they would patch up a truce and
generally come forth a united Democracy at the
346 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
polls on election day. I once said to a prominent
Democrat, a friend of mine who was running for
Congress:
" Colonel, liow is it that you Democrats are al-
ways fighting and quarreling and ready to cut each
other's throats before election, and vet when you
come to the polls you all vote the straight Demo-
cratic ticket?" He replied, laughing:
" Wh}^, John, we are like cats — the more Ave fight
and quarrel, the more we propagate our species."
Prom 1849 to 1861 the State of California was as
much under the control of the Southern wing of the
Democratic party as South Carolina, and voted in
Congress for Southern interests to all intents and
purposes; as intensely Southern as Mississix^pi or
any other of the fire-eating States. From the adop-
tion of the State constitution in 1849 to 1861, the
Southern Aving of that party did ever} thing in their
XJower to divide the State, their purpose being to
make a slave State out of the Southern portion of it.
One of the members from San Joaquin county, if I
remember correctly, introduced a resolution in the
Assembly at the session if 1852, inviting and allow-
ing fifty families from the Southern States, with
their negro slaves, to settle in the Southern coun-
ties. It is said that some families actually came, but
they found they could not hold their slaves, so gave
uj) the job and sent some of them back, while others
became free. Such was the fight that Southern
Democrats made to establish the "divine institu-
FIRST REPUBLICAN STATE TICKET. 347
tion " in California. Eor twelve years that fight
was kej)t up —until the first rebel gun was fired at
Fort Sumter, which was the death-knell to their
pretentions. Looking back over that twelve years
between 1849 and 1861, it is surprising how the
Southern Aving of the Democratic party managed
to perpetuate its power. Being not over one-third
of the voters of the State, its politicians managed
to rule the State and fill nine-tenths of the ofiices,
from XTnited States Senators down to constables.
I have often asked some of them why it was so.
Their reply generally was:
" We of the South are better politicians than you
Northern men, and we were born to rule anyway.
You Northern men are good workers and business
men, and Ave are perfectly Avilling you should do it."
Eor a long time the custom-house and mint at
San Erancisco Avere knoAvn as the Virginia j)oor-
houses, from the number of scions of the first fami-
lies of Virginia that Avere stoAved away there on fat
salaries.
In the Legislature of 1857 occurred that memor-
able election Avhich sent Broderick to the United
States Senate, with William M. Gwin as his
colleague. Eor years Broderick had been planning
to reach that high x^osition, while the chiAalry
Aving, Avith equal persistence, was plotting to keep
him from the coveted prize. When the Legislature
met in January, 1857, it Avas found in caucus that
Broderick was master of the situation, and that not
348 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
only could he be elected himself, but he could dic-
tate the election of the other Senator as well. Gwin
and Latham both aspired to that honor. It was
then that Grwin came out in a public card, acknowl-
edging his obligation to the stone-cutter's son for
his election, and resigning all his j)olitical patron-
age to Broderick and his friends. Humiliating in-
deed it must have been to this proud son of chivalry
to make those humble confessions to the man, above
all others, his faction hated and despised. But he
never intended to keep the promise he made to
Broderick, in order to secure his election. When
Gwin arrived at Washington he had the President
— Buchanan — and the whole Democratic party of
the South at his back. Broderick and his friends
were completely ignored, and Grwin and the
chivalry were again in the ascendant in California.
THE DEMOCRACY OF THE STATE DIVIDED. 349
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Democracy of THE State Divided. — Killing of Broderick.
The Democracy divided on the Kansas question. — Fights, murders,
ballot-box stuffing. — Stanford and Latham the nominees for
Governor. — Broderick killed by Terry.
Again in 1859 the State election came on, and
we had a somewhat different opponent to battle
with. The Kansas troubles were agitating the
country. Civil war had commenced in that terri-
tory on a small scale. The Kansas-Nebraska Act
had left the slavery question to the decision of the
people of the territory directly interested. Free-
State men from the North had emigrated to Kansas
under the ausj)ices of the anti-slaver}^ societies in
quite large numbers, while the Southern States had
sent their j)ro-slavery men to plant the " divine in-
stitution " in that free land. The anti-slavery party,
it is said, had armed its disciples with Sharp's rifles,
free-soil tracts and bibles; while the pro-slavery em-
igrants (known as border ruffians) were armed
with the revolver and deadly bowie-knife. On the
prairies of Kansas those hostile factions met, each
side representing the fiery element of its section.
350 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
They could not long dwell together in peace — it
needed but a spark to ignite the whole mass. The
spark was not long in coming.
For a number of years the newspapers of the
land were filled with accounts of fights, murders,
ballot-box stuifings, and various other crimes that
would disgrace the annals of the Apache or Co-
manche Indians. Both parties in Kansas called
conventions in order to frame constitutions for the
embryo State. The j)i'o-slavery party held tlieir
convention at Lecompton, framed a constitution,
and submitted it to the people. Bands of armed
men crossed over from Missouri, took possession of
the polls, and would allow no one to vote unless he
voted for the Lecompton constitution, Aviiich recog-
nized the " divine institution " of slavery. When the
free-state men saw that they had the whole State
of Missouri to fight against and to vote against, they
refused to recognize the election or have anything
to do with it, and it of course received a large ma-
jority of all the votes cast. In due time the bantam
hatched at Lecompton, was, with a great flourish of
trumpets, sent on to Washington, styled the Le-
compton constitution, and purporting to be the
work of the people of Kansas at the polls; when, in
fact, not one-third of the people of Kansas voted on
the day of election. The whole machinery of the
election was in the hands of the pro-slavery party,
and as long as pen, ink and paper held out, they
were not wanting for votes to give the Lecompton
THE DEMOCRACY OF THE STATE DIVIDED. 351
constitution all the majority it needed. On its ar-
rival at Washington it became the adopted child of
President Buchanan and the Democratic party.
Eealty to it became the shibboleth of the Demo-
cratic party, and woe to the Democrat who had
the manliness and courage to oppose that fraud —
the most damnable that ever was sought to be im-
posed on a free people b}^ a corrupt administration.
When the bill to admit Kansas under the Lecomp-
ton constitution was introduced in the Senate of
the United States, then commenced the battle of
the giants. The Senate at that time contained
some of the greatest minds of the age. Such men
as ScAvard of x^ew York, Sumner of Massachusetts,
Douglas of Illinois, Hamlin of Maine, Broderick of
California, and many others of national reputation,
led that historic fight for freedom. Xor were there
lacking talent and statesmanship to advocate the
admission of Kansas under the Lecomj)ton consti-
tution, for such men as Jefferson Davis, Hammond,
Judah P. Benjamin, Toombs, Slidell, William M.
Gwin of California, Mason of Virginia, and the
whole South stood as its sponsors. Pierce were the
debates that took place in the Senate. So powerful
was the party lash of the Democratic party that but
three of the Democratic Senators then in the Sen-
ate had sufficient indej)endence to disobey its man-
dates and vote for the extension of freedom. These
men were immediately read out of the i)arty, and
ostracized both socially and politically by the Pres-
352 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
ident and the Democratic party at Wasliington.
Their names Avill stand in the history of tlieir
country as men that loved freedom more than
party, and the good of their country above the
smiles and plaudits of the slave power. Such were
Stej)hen A. Douglas of Illinois, T>. C. Broderick of
California, and Stuart of Michigan.
The Lecompton constitution was defeated. The
people of Kansas then called another convention,
framed a free constitution and submitted it to the bona
^(/6 people of Kansas for ratification in the summer of
1858, and it Avas ratified by tlie lawful voters of
Kansas by over five to one — yet the State was not
admitted to the Union until January 29th, 1861.
The slave j)0wer kept her out as long as possible.
But to come back to events in California.
I had to dwell somewhat on events taking place
in other sections of the land, that my readers
miglit have a better understanding of what took
place in California. Our State election for Gover-
nor, State officers and members of Congress occur-
red in 1859, and the parties in the field contending
for tlie mastery were tlie Republican party, that
portion of tlie Democratic party sometimes called
the Lecompton Democrats, and the anti-Lecompton
or Broderick Democrats — men opposed to the ad-
ministration because of the attitude Buchanan had
taken on the Kansas question, and opposed to the
President of the United States sending United
States troops to Kansas for the suppression of free
THE DEMOCRACY OF THE STATE DIVIDED. 353
speech and free votes. The American or KnoAv-
nothing party had gone out of existence — the
nation had more on its hands than to wrangle over
a few tlionsand foreign-born citizens and the Pope
of Rome. In 1859, then, we had three xiarties in
the tiehl. The Kepuhlican x^arty held its convention
at Sacramento Citv, and nominated Leland Stan-
ford — then a merchant of Sacramento — for Gover-
nor, James E. Kennedy for Lieutenant-Governor,
and Joseph McKibbin and E. D. Baker for Con-
gress, with a full State ticket.
The Lecompton or pro-slavery wing of the Demo-
cratic party nominated Milton S. Latliam for Gov-
ernor, and J. G. Downey of Los Angeles for Lieu-
tenant-Governor. Latham I believe was a native
of Ohio, but when a young man went to Alabama
as a school teacher, and there learned to out Herod
Herod in his devotion to the slave j)ower. J. G.
Downey was, I believe, an Irishman by birth. J.
0. Burch and O. L. Scott were nominated for Con-
gress, Burch being a Missourian and Scott, I believe,
a Virginian.
The anti-Lecompton Democrats nominated Judge
John Curry for Governor. Mr. Curry was said to be
a Bepublican, had been a warm supporter of David
C. Broderick, and a man of clean hands, politically
speaking. John Conness was nominated for Lieu-
tenant-Governor. Eor Congressmen Joseph Mc-
Kibbin — one of the Bei^ublican nominees — re-
ceived the nomination, and S. A. Booker, of San
3r)4 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Joaquin county for second Congressman, Avith a
full State ticket.
Senator Erode rick came from Washington to
organize liis anti-Lecompton party, and jmake a
tight for his political life. In the Senate of the
United States he was ostracized by the President
and the Democratic party. He had expected to re-
ward his friends with office, but Buchanan had
treated his recommendations with contempt and
himself with freezing coldness. Gwin, his col-
league — the man who had but a short time previ-
ous made such liumiliating concessions to him in
order to be elected — was now tlie dispenser of tlie
public patronage in California. After his humili-
ating bargain with Broderick, Grwin returned to
Washington, and President Buchanan treated him
as a martyr to the cause. They both returned to
California to take part in the State election. Both
Broderick and Gwin stumped the State, each one
accusing the other of political trickery and jobbery.
Gwin's sj^eeches throughout the canvass were
coupled with sneers, insults and personal abuse of
Broderick. The pro-slavery or Democi-atic Legis-
lature tliat was elected in 1858 was largely Lecomp-
ton and friendly to Gwin. A previous Legislature
had passed resolutions instructing Senator Brode-
rick to vote Avith the Administration on the Le-
compton issue. Senator Broderick was too much of
an honest man and a lover of his country to do so.
The Legislature in the spring of 1859 passed reso-
THE DEMOCRACY OF THE STATE DIVIDED- 35o
lutions condemning liini for the language used by
liim in the Senate regarding the President's atti-
tude on the Lecoinpton constitution. The whole
tribe of Leconipton politicians j)oured out their
vials of wrath on the head of Broderick as the
author of all their woes. Broderick spoke in Weaver-
ville during the campaign, and in his remarks
said, when he started out to canvass the State, his
intentions had been to discuss the political ques-
tions of the day in a gentlemanly manner, but his
oj)ponents would not allow him to do so. He re-
marked that if Senator Gwin had any personal
grievances to settle with him thev should be settled
in some other way than on the stump.
"If I have insulted Senator Gwin," said he,
" sufficiently to induce him to go about the State
and make a blackguard of himself, he should seek
the remedy that is oj)en to all gentlemen who feel
oifended."
He liad to be got out of their way. There were
plenty of duelists in their ranks who stood read}' to
do the bidding of their party on the slightest provo-
cation, or without any provocation at all. Senator
Broderick, like Senator Eurguson, was a doomed
man, and sooner or later they were bound to kill
him. The whole host of the Southern politicians
were on his track, and did everything they could
to j)rovoke a fight, taunting him with cowardice,
pusillanimity, and belittling him in every way that
was in their power. They finally accomplished
356 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
their end. Broderick fell by the bullet of David S.
Terry, the man wliose life he had been instrumen-
tal in saving when the vigilantes, in 1856, at San
Erancisco, had him a prisoner at Eort Gunny Bags
for the stabbing of Hopkins, the vigilance com-
mittee policeman. How did David S. Terry re-
ward Bi'oderick for his services and friendship on
that memorable occasion^ Broderick was like
unto the man, who, finding a serpent frozen and
lifeless, warmed it to life in his bosom, and then
for his recompense, it stung him to death.
David 0. Broderick, the j>ec>j)le's friend, lies
sleeping in Lone Mountain cemetery, beloved and
respected, his memory enshrined in the hearts of
his countrymen from the Atlantic to the Pacific.
A nation mourned his loss — lie died a martyr to
his convictions. How was it with his slayer, David
S. Terry '] Despised and shunned by a large y)oy-
tion of his countrymen— a man of blood. His life
in this State was one of turmoil and contention; at
war with himself and everjijhing that stood in his
way. In the evening of his life he met a violent
death at the hands of David Xagle, a United States
officer in the discharge of his duties. He died as he
had lived, and went to his grave unhonored and un-
wept. Those who knew him best say he had many
good qualities to ofl'set his bad ones. Let the good
ones live, the bad ones be buried in the grave of
oblivion.
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1859- 357
CHAPTER XL.
The Political Campaign of 1859.
A triangular fight. — California's representatives in Congress voting with
the South. — Latham elected to succeed Broderick. — Mourning
Broderick's death. — John G. Downey, Governor.
During tlie canvass of 1859 the three j)arties put
forth their utmost strength. The Republicans had
able speakers in the field. E. D. Baker, then nomi-
nee for Congress, was said to be the brightest orator
that ever stumped the State; and that was saying a
good deal, for whatever else California needed, she
was not short of good speakers and politicians.
Eor ten years California was the dumping-ground
of disappointed politicians east of the Rocky Mount-
ains. They came to California to recuperate their
fortunes and enlighten the poor benighted Cali-
fornia miners. Josejih McKibbin, the other nomi-
nee on the Rei)ublican ticket, was a fair speaker
and a member of Congress. Leland Stanford, the
nominee for Governor, was a fair, average speaker,
and stumped the lower counties for the ticket. The
other State ofiicers had their fields of labor parceled
out to them.
Milton S. Latham, the Lecompton nominee for
358 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Governor, was then considered the ablest Demo-
cratic speaker of the State. John G. Downey, the
nominee for Lieutenant-Governor, Avas from Los
Ans^eles, and did liis work in the southern portion
of the State. John 0. Burch, tlie Lecompton
nominee for Congress, was a good speaker, and a
lawyer by profession. He resided at Weaverville
and practiced his jirofession, having tried his luck
in the mines with but little success. Like the
balance of the Southern politicians, he was a strong
pro-slavery man. Being born in Missouri, where
he lived until he came to California in 1850, he had
naturally inherited his pro-slavery opinions — a man
of good impulses, warm-hearted, and generous to a
fault. Such a man was John C. Burch, a strong
Democrat, a man who believed that the Demo-
cratic party could do no wrong. I remember, in
discussing j^olitics one day, I said to him :
" Burch, if the Democratic party would go in for
dissolving the Union, and call it a Democratic
measure, you would go for it if you were elected."
He replied, " I would not." He was elected, and
when the nation's life, in 1861, seemed to hang by
a slender thread — when State after State was with-
drawing her Senators and Bej)resentatives from
both houses of Congress and passing secession ordi-
nances, Representative Burch, knowing full well
that California could never be carried into the
Southern confederacy, did all he could while at
Washington to form a Pacific Bepublic. His at-
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1859. 359
teinpt came to ntiught — California was true to her-
self and loyal to the nation that gave her birlli.
Scott, liis colleague, was also a man of Southern
birth — I believe a A^irginian — and of fair abilities.
He belonged to the Lecompton or chivalry wing of
the party, and while in Congress voted with the
secessionists and for Southern measures just as
much as if he represented South Carolina or Miss-
issippi in Congress, instead of the free and loyal
State of California. John Conness, the anti-Le-
compton candidate for Lieutenant-Governor, was an
Irishman b}^ birth, and was from El Dorado county.
He was a fair speaker, and canvassed the central
and southern portions of the State. Samuel A.
Booker of San Joaquin, the second Congressman,
canvassed the southern counties. I know but little
of him, as I never heard him address an audience,
but he stood well in public esteem.
The three parties warmed well to their work.
Before the canvass had advanced far the Bepubli-
cans were pouring hot shot into the Lecompton
ranks, and into James Buchanan in particular, for
his doings in the Kansas troubles, and for his un-
just manner of treating the bona fide settlers of that
territory by sending United States troojJS to dra-
goon them into submission. The Bepublicans in
the campaign were treated with a little more
courtesy than had ever been shown them before in
the State. Thej had carried ten States in the last
Presidential election, and were increasing in Call-
360 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
fornia. Their candidates and speakers were men of
good standing, and well known in the State. The
border-ruffian element * was learning the lesson
that Amerians, when aroused, could giye as well as
take hard knocks. In some precincts the Republi-
can speakers were interrupted and insulted by the
border ruffians as usual, but not to as great an ex-
tent as in previous elections. Their attention was
more taken up with the fight between the two
wings of their own party. I verily believe that the
pro-slavery wing, or the Gwin faction, would have
much preferred Leland Stanford for Governor to
John Curry. Anything to down David C. Brod-
erick and his friends, was tlieir motto, and there
was little love lost. The anti-Lecomptonites were
as anxious to beat Gwin and his faction as the Le-
comtonites were to beat the former. It was very
amusing for Republicans to hear their old enemies
abusing each other and calling each other pet names.
Broderick's discourses on the stump were princi-
pally relating to Gwin's humiliation and trickery,
his broken promises and his treachery to Cali-
fornia, the State that had honored him with a seat
in the United States Senate. He scored Gwin on the
Homestead bill, as being opposed to it, and accused
him of being the paid agent of the Pacific Mail
Steamshij) Company, that Avas then monoj)olizing tlie
carrying trade and mail between New York and
San Erancisco. Gwin would be introducing railroad
bills in the Senate, but they were generally pigeon-
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1859. 361
holed until he got ready to come back to his con-
stituents in California. Then he would stick them
in his coat-tail pockets to exhibit to his constituents,
and try to make them believe that he was working
for a railroad across the plains. A good many
newspapers were uncharitable enough to say that
the honorable Senator was all the time in the pay
of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company to kill all
such railroad bills, and they made a great many
people in California believe it was the truth. On
the other hand Senator Gwin stigmatized Senator
Broderick for not obeying the resolutions of the
Legislature of California on the Lecompton con-
stitution question, and Avith being a renegade from
the Democratic party — that he had been read out
of the party.
It ap]3eared from the discussion during the can-
vass that Milton S. Latham was somewhat mixed
up in the previous Senatorial contest. It was as-
serted at the time that he was willing to relinquish
to Broderick all the apj)ointments, with the excep-
tion of three or four that he had promised to some
of his j)articular friends at San Erancisco, for
Broderick's assistance in electing Latham to the
Senate of the United States. It was said that
Senator Furguson was the negotiator between
Broderick and Latham, and that Furguson had the
correspondence in the transaction. It was certainly
believed at the time that this was the j)rincipal
reason for the duel between Ceorge Pen Johnson
o62 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
and Ferguson — that those letters might be had
possession of by Latham and his friends, and which
went to prove it. It was said that, after Eerguson
was killed in the duel with Johnson, his private
desk was broken oj)en and those letters aj^pertain-
ing to the Senatorial bargain and sale were stolen
therefrom. Latham denied the accusation on the
stump. Eerguson was in his grave, and the papers
relating to it were stolen from the desk of the dead
Senator. And so stands the matter up to the
present day.
Sucli was the standing of political parties at the
State election of 1859. The election occurred on
the 7th day of September, and the cliivalry wing of
the Democratic party came out triumphant as
usual, electing their Avhole State ticket, Avith the
two Congressmen — Burch and Scott. A few days
after the election. Judge David S. Terry, one of the
Supreme Judges of the State, resigned his seat on
the bench, and challenged Senator Broderick for
some words spoken at a breakfast-table, if I re-
member correctlv. Broderick had made the remark
that if Judge Terry had made such and such re-
marks about him, he Avould now have to alter his
opinion of Judge Terry. He had believed him to
be the only honest man on the Supreme Bench, but
he had now to alter his opinion. These words, or
words to the same effect, were spoken three or
four months before the challenge was sent to
Broderick by Terry. Senator Broderick accepted
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OP 1S59. 363
Terry's cliallenge, and fell mortally wounded, sur-
viAdng but two or three days after the duel. His
last and dying words were:
" They have killed me because I opposed the ex-
tension of slavery and a corrupt adminis ration!"
Thus died Senator Broderick — one of earth's
noblemen. California never realized the worth
of the man until he lay dead in his cothn. Then
a burst of indignation went forth from tlie press and
people, from San Diego to Del ^orte, against his
slayers. Three-fourths of the people of the State
mourned him as a martyr to the people's cause.
The eloquent Baker jn-onounced his funeral ora-
tion, filled with eulogy. Eew in that vast assembly
but looked on tlie dead Senator's cause as their
own. His funeral was the largest and most impos-
ing that had been seen uj) to that time in San
Francisco. Not only in California did the X3eople
do honor to his memory; but in the city of New
York, when the news reached there of his untimely
death, the funeral solemnities were repeated, and
an immense throng of peojjle attended. The hearse
was drawn by eight gray horses, and the oration was
pronounced by John W. Dwindle. Seldom had
Kew York City witnessed the like. The i)eople
of California erected an imposing monument to his
memory. But David C. Broderick needed no other
monument than that he had erected in the hearts
of his countrymen and in the history of California.
By the death of Senator Broderick, his seat in
364 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the United States Senate became vacant, and the
question was in every loyal man's mind, who will
be apx^ointed to fill it '^ The question was often
asked: Will they aj)point one of the clique that was
instrumental in his death 1 Many thought- they
would; others thought they dare not face public
oj)inion by so doing. H. P. Haun of Marysville
was appointed to the vacancy. Judge Haun was a
pro-slavery Democrat, but a man above reproach.
He was appointed until the meeting of the Legis-
lature, whose duty it was to fill the vacancy. If I
remember correctly, Milton S. Latham, the Gover-
nor-elect, was chosen by the Legislature. Latham
had made a x^romise that if he was elected Gover-
nor he would serve out his term, and not aspire to
the Senate; but the love of the Senatorial toga was
too great in him to keep his promise to the people.
The Legislature elected him, and he resigned
the Governorship for the more glittering prize, and
John G. Downey became Governor of California.
THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF 1860- 365
CHAPTER XLI.
The Presidential Campaign of i860. — The State Carried for
Lincoln.
The bitter feeling towards " Black Republicans." — Andy Lyons. — Abra-
ham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas. — The Charleston convention.
— The various candidates for the Presidency.
After the State election that took place in Sep-
tember, 1859, and the death of Senator Broderick,
the pro-slavery wing of the Democratic party
seemed to be firmly seated in power. Broderick —
the man of all others whom they feared and hated
in California — was dead. The State Government
was largely Democratic, also both branches of the
Legislature. Senators Gwin and Haun, and Bep-
resentatives Bnrch and Scott were pro-slavery
Democrats, and as subservient to the slave power
as if they represented Mississippi in Congress, in-
stead of California. It looked as if our fair State of
California was to be for a long time to come
chained to the black car of slavery, instead of array-
ing herself where she belonged — where God and
nature intended her to be — beside her free sister
States of the ]!!^orth and AYest. But it was not for
366 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
mortals to penetrate the future. There are old
sayings that it is always darkest just before day, and
every dark cloud has its silver lining. Little we Re-
publicans thought, in 1859, that the Democrats had
gained their last victory for nearly a decade. Yet
so it was. Politically, the horizon looked dark for
them in California. The next year— that is, in 1860
— the Presidential campaign was to be fought.
The Republicans had as yet scarcely carried a
county in the State, though San Erancisco and
Sacramento counties had been making large Re-
publican gains, and the balance of the State was
gaining slowly. But the Republicans were plucky,
and were not discouraged by repeated defeats.
Many men at that time were genuine Republicans
at heart, but did not have the moral courage to
avow themselves as such. Por six years the chivalry
party had tried to cast such odium and ridicule on
the name "Republican," that many weak-kneed
Republicans were kept from avowing themselves as
such. They could not stand the ridicule, or the
idea of being called a black Republican; and many
others who had been Democrats all their lives,
but were anti-slavery men, clung to the Democratic
name, with the hope that something might turn up
that would relieve them from the necessity of
changing their party and their party affiliations.
The Democratic party was the most thoroughly
organized institution that ever existed in America.
It punished its delinquents without mercy, and re-
THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF I860. 367
warded its friends with no unsparing hand. To its
thorough organization it owes its many victories.
Woe to tlie Democrat who kicked in the traces
or scratched a ticket on election dav, even for a
constable! So thorough was its organization that a
Democrat was disgraced if he had the manliness to
scratch a ticket and vote for a friend on the oppo-
site ticket. An instance came under niv observa-
tion in 1852, when J. W. Denver and R. G. Stuart
were running for the State Senate — Denver on the
Democratic and Stuart on the Whig ticket. Bob
Stuart Avas a general favorite with the boys in
Weaverville. There was an old man named Andy
Lyons mining in one of the gulches at that time.
He was a dved-in-the-wool Democrat, but friendlv
to Stuart and very friendly to me. When election
came on I got Uncle Andy, by a good deal of per-
suasion, to vote for Stuart. After casting his vote,
he turned to me and said:
" This is the first Whig vote I ever cast, and it
will be the last one while I live! "
Eor ten years after that election Uncle Andy,
Avhen he got "tight," would come around and give
me a tongue-lashing for making him disgrace him-
self by voting the Whig ticket. A naturalized
citizen who voted anything but a Democratic ticket
was considered an outlaw entirely.
Erom the gubernatorial election in the fall of
1859 until the Presidential election 1860, each
party was laying its plans for the great struggle.
868 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Early in June the Republicans called a convention
to elect delegates to the National Convention thai
was to nominate candidates for President and Vice-
President of the United States. The convention
met at Sacramento City and chose delegates to at-
tend the Chicago Convention. The delegates were
unpledged as to candidates, but it was generally
understood that William H. Seward of New York
was the first choice of the convention for President.
A year or two previous Abraham Lincoln had
made that memorable canvass of the State of Illi-
nois against Stephen A. Douglas for the Senate of
the United States. The State of Illinois had been
Democratic nearly ever since its admission in
the year 1818, and Stephen A. Douglas had been
its senior Senator for a number of years and its
political idol. Douglas was the principal mover
and advocate of the repeal of the Missouri compro-
mise, which act reopened the slavery question, and
gave the agitators on both sides a good chance to
get in their work on that much-vexed question of
slavery. The anti-slavery men of Illinois pitted
Abraham Lincoln against Stej)hen A. Douglas to
canvass the State on the slavery question. Then
commenced a war of giants, Douglas and Lincoln,
for the Senatorship. Their speeches were nearly
all published.
Abraham Lincoln by that canvass became the
property of the whole nation — his reputation be-
came too great for the State of Illinois to monopo-
THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF I860. 369
lize him. Although he was beaten for the Senate,
yet on taking the Avhole vote cast by the partizans
of both Lincoln and Douglas, it was found that the
popular vote was over five thousand greater for
Lincoln's friends than for Douglas'; yet Douglas
had a small majority on joint ballot, which elected
him to the Senate. •
A great many Kepublicans began to look on Abra-
ham Lincoln as the coming man for the Republican
standard-bearer in 1860. When the convention
met at Chicago, Lincoln and Seward of Kew York
Avere the two principal candidates before the con-
vention. AVilliam A. Seward of New York had
been all his life a free-soil Whig, and was then a
Senator from Kew York. He was a man of a high
order of talent, and was classed as a statesman with
Clay, Webster, Calhoun, Douglas and other great
men of the nation. But, like other great men, he
had been a long time in public life, and had made
many enemies, both in his own party and among
his opponents in the Democratic party. Mr.
Seward received a very respectable vote in the
convention, but Abraham Lincoln received the
nomination, with Hannibal Hamlin of Maine as
Vice-President. Hamlin was at that time senior
Senator from Maine.
Tlie prosjiect for a Ilej)ublican victory in Novem-
ber looked bright indeed. Premont, four years
previous, had carried ten States for the Rej)ublican
ticket, when the Rej)ublican party was less than
370 PIONEEH DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
two years in existence, and had very little organi-
zation as a i>^i'ty. It was now, in 1860, well
organized and ready for tlie tight. Ontside of one
or two of the Southern border States, the Rexmbli-
can party had no existence in any of the Southern
States — its whole strength lay in the free States.
An abolitionist or ii liepublican was not allowed to
live in a slave State up to that time; they were
generall}' tarred and feathered and mobbed, and
driven out of the State— treated worse than pirates.
Woe to the man or woman who had the temerity
to go into a slave State and say one word against the
" divine institution " of slavery! They made short
Avork of him or her. Such were the feelings of the
Southern States towards the anti-slavery men of the
North when Abraham Lincoln received the Ke-
publican nomination at Chicago.
The Democrats held their convention at Charles-
ton, South Carolina, and there was a full delegation
from every State in the Union. Erom the first day
of the convention it was j)lain to be seen that
there was going to be warm work before the con-
vention ended. The Southern delegates would not
be content with anything less than a complete
recognition of slavery as a national institution, and
would suifer no platform to be ado^^ted without it
pledged the Democratic party, body and soul, to
further tlie institution of slavery. In vain the
Northern delegates pleaded with their Southern
brethren that they could never go before the North-
THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF I860. 371
era people, with siicli a platform as tlie Southern
delegates wished and insisted on adopting, with
any possible chance of success. Finally the South-
ern delegates had it pretty much their own way as
to the xdatform. When the nomination Avas made,
then came the fun. They adopted the two-thirds
rule, and the fight commenced in earnest. Stephen
A. Douglas of Illinois was the candidate of the
Northern Democracy, or a large j)ortion of them,
while Jefferson Davis of Mississij)j)i, and John 0.
Breckenridge of Kentucky, were the two principal
candidates of the Southern delegation. They voted
for several days without result — it was said as many
as sixty-four votes were taken, and that Benjamin
E. Butler of Massachusetts voted in the conven-
tion sixtv-four times for Jefferson Davis for Presi-
dent. Finally the conve-ntion adjourned for, I be-
lieve, four weeks, to meet again and see if they
could do better. At their second meeting there was
no more harmony than at the first. The Southern
Democrats would have nothing short of a complete
surrender of the North to the slave iJower. Eor
forty years the slave power had ruled the nation —
the North, for the sake of peace submitting until
patience had ceased to be a virtue. By the Fugitive
Slave Law they made every man in the North a
slave catcher, and compelled the use of the North-
ern prisons to confine men and women in for no
other crime than that of wishing to be free. Several
of the Northern States passed what were called
372 PIONEKR DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
personal liberty bills, to offset the Eugitive Slave
Act. When the Charleston Convention met after
their adjournment, it was very plain to be seen that
the convention would never agree on either a plat-
form or a candidate. The Northern delegates dare
not submit to the demands of the South — thev well
knew that any further concession to the slave pow er
would bring annihilation and defeat to their party
in the N^orthern States. They had already lost ten
States, with several others readj^ to folloAV. Many
of the Southern delegates wanted, and insisted on
the right to take their slaA^es into the free States,
and keej) them there as slaves as long as they
pleased. The Charleston Convention, after many
vain attempts at reconciliation, finally s]Ait in
twain, the Southern delegates Avithdrawing from
the convention, and leaving the friends of Stephen
A. Douglas and " Squatter Sovereignty " in pos-
session. The convention then proceeded to the
business of making a platform and nominating the
candidates. Stephen A. Douglas of Illinois was
nominated for President, with Herschell V. John-
son of Georgia for Vice-President. Stex^hen A.
Douglas was then Senator from tlie great State of
Illinois — tlie man who had contested the Senator-
ship with Abraham Lincoln two years previous —
and was classed among the great statesmen of the
nation — a peer of any man in the United States
Senate. Johnson, outside of his State, was but little
known. The seceders or Southern delegates met in
THE PRESIDENTIAL CAMPAIGN OF 1860- 378
convention, framed and adopted a platform with
slavery as its chief corner-stone, and nominated for
President John 0. Breckenridge of Kentucky, then
Vice-President under Buchanan. Joe Lane, Sena-
tor from Oregon, was nominated Vice-President —
the man who, during the canvass, was accused of
spelling God with a little g. Lane was a man of
very small calibre, and totally unfit for either the
United States Senate or Vice-President of the
nation.
374 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XLII.
The Nashville Convention.
The seeds of secession. — The poHtical parties in Cahfornia.— Rancorous
denunciation. — The attack upon Charles Sumner. — Amusing scenes
and incidents. — Awaiting the returns.
There were, at the time of which I am writing,
quite a body of men, both North and South, that
deprecated and denounced the agitation of slavery
both in Congress and out of it. Those in the
Southern States had formerly been Whigs, and
were attached to tlie Union. Of course there were
many such in the Northern States. They called a
convention of all conservative citizens, irrespective
of their former party affiliations, to meet at Nash-
ville, Tennessee, if I remember correctly, and there
to nominate candidates and make a platform that
would be acceptable to all x^arts of the nation. The
convention met in due time, and nominated John
Bell of Tennessee for President, and Edward
Everett of Massachusetts for Yice-President.
John Bell had been Senator from Tennessee —
elected as a Whig in Whig days, and was looked
upon as a great and good man by all parties. The
THE NASHVILLE CONVENTION. 375
Union would have been safe in hisliands. Edward
Everett was also a Whig, and was as highly re-
spected as any man in the United States for his
learning, statesmanship and legal ability.
Such Avere the men that the conservatives of Loth
sections of the nation put forth for the suffrages of
the American people. In point of real ability and
statesmanship and love of country, a better choice
could not have been made tlian Bell and Everett.
There were noAV in the field four sets of candidates
for President — Lincoln and Hamlin, Republicans;
Douglas and Johnson, popular sovereignty; Breck-
enridge and Lane, pro-slavery or secessionist; Bell
and Everett, Union or American party — the last,
but not the least, so far as statesmanship and love of
country was concerned. The Republican party was
taunted with being a sectional x>arty, as it had no
following except in the N^orth and a very few of the
slave border States. The Douglas Democrats were
in the same boat, so far as getting much of a vote in
the slave-holding States was concerned. Brecken-
ridge and Lane were tlie Southern candidates, and
the South stood by them.
Erom the davs of nullification, as advocated h\ J.
C Calhoun and nipped in the bud by that old
patriot, Andrew Jackson, there had been a class of
Southern politicians that worked witli a zeal worthy
of a better cause, to stir up a sectional strife and
fire the Southern heart against the Xortli — and too
well they succeeded. Eor OA'er thirtv vears tlic
376 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
seeds of secession and rebellion were being sown,
and in 1861 they harvested a full crop. During tlie
canvass in llie Southern States llieir speakers and
politicians advocated that, if Lincoln was elected,
it was a just and good cause for secession, and ad-
vised the people of the States to make themselves
readv for that event. Too well did thev succeed in
their treasonable designs. In the free States the
principal fight was between Lincoln and Douglas
— one the champion of free States and free men, the
other the champion of " squatter sovereignty."
The Bell and Everett party did not cut much of a
figure, either North or South, although composed of
some of the most conservative and best men in the
nation. If I remember correctly, they did not
elect one elector. Such was the standing of parties
in the Presidential campaign of 1860. But to come
back to parties in California. When the news of
the nomination of Abraham Lincoln at Chicago
Avas received, a good many Kej)ublicans were dis-
appointed— tliey were looking for W. H. Seward
of Kew York to be their standard-bearer. But
they had made up their minds that, no matter wlio
received tlie Chicago nomination, if he was a man
capable and of good repute, they would give him a
hearty support, and this they did. A Bej)ublican
convention was duly called and electors appointed
for the State, and some of the ablest men canvassed
the State for the ticket. There was a more thorough
canvass made by the Republicans than ever before
THE NASHVILLE CONVENTION. 377
in tbe State. Tlie other parties — that is, both wings
of the Democratic party — had their tickets in the
tiekl, each chiiniing they were the Simon-pure
article, and each accusing the others of being bolters
and renegades from the regular organization.
The .Douglas wing had lost its head, D. C. Broderick,
by the bullet of D. S. Terry. Others arose in his
j)lace, but there were none to wear his mantle. They
battled manfully for their principles, however, and
made a glorious fight, coming out second best.
The Lecompton wing had the old set at their back :
the two United States Senators, two Congressmen —
Burch and Scott — all the federal office-holders, be-
sides the Governor and State officers, which were a
small army within themselves. The Bell and
Everett party cut but little figure. Twice before
the chivalry had deceived the N^orthern men who
belonged to the American party, but they could
play that game no longer. Senators Gwin and
Latham stumped the State, and every man that
could talk on the stump, was taken from the Vir-
ginia poor-house (as the San Prancisco custom-house
was then called) and pressed into service. Their
whole fight was made against the Bepublicans, as
being negro worshippers, secessionists, abolitionists,
negro stealers, and guilty of every crime known to
our hiAvs, human or divine, and their candidate,
Abraham Lincoln, was a monkey, a baboon and an
illiterate flat-boatman. If Lincoln was elected,
they argued, it would be sufficient cause for the
378 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
South to secede. This was the tone of the oratory
that was dealt out to us in 1860 by the Brecken-
ridge wing of the innnaculate Bourbons. In this
campaign they contined themsehes j)i'incipally to
tongue abuse; the egg-and-niob tactics had proyen
a complete failure, and they did not resort to them.
The Douglas wing made their tight principally on
the right of the inhabitants of a territory, when
they come to yote on their Constitution, to yote
slayery up or down as they saw j)roper. The lie-
publicans made their cany ass on no further exten-
sion of slayery, the corruption of the Democratic
party, the suppression of free speech, and tlie
tyranny of slaye power. It had been but a short
time preyious that Charles Sumner had been
stricken down in his seat, for some words spoken in.
debate with the Senator from South Carolina
on the floor of the Senate, by Preston Brooks, a
Congressman from South Carolina, and a nephew
of the Senator from that State. Sumner was quietly
sitting in his seat writing, unaware of any danger,
when he was approached from behind and stricken
down, witlioiit a moment's notice, with a cane in
the hands of Brooks, then a young man in the
prime of life. Senator Sumner had to be carried
from the Senate chamber, and it was seyeral months
before he recoyered sutliciently to take his seat in
the Senate, and it was said that he neyer fully re-
covered from the assault. When the news of this
assault was spread throughout the country, uniyer-
THE NASHVILLE CONVENTION. 379
sal condeimiation of the cowardly act was in every
man's mouth, and it did more to consolidate the
Korth than anything that had yet taken place.
Anson P. Biirlingame, one of the Massachusetts
Congressmen, challenged Brooks. At first Brooks
accepted the challenge, and they were to fight in
Canada, but Brooks backed out, giving his excuse
that if he traveled to Canada through the free
States, he was in danger of being mobbed. But
Burliucfame and his friends sent Brooks word that
they would guarantee him a safe passage through
the free States and back from Canada, but Brooks
failed to respond, and the duel did not come off.
Well, to come back to the election in California.
Each party put forth its full strength in the can-
vass. The Bepublicans and the Douglas Demo-
crats had the full power and the patronage of Bu-
chanan's administration to work against. It looked
as though the chivalry wing would come out ahead,
as usual, in California; but this time they were
doomed to disappointment.
The election took place in November, and Abra-
ham Lincoln carried the State by a small plurality,
with Stephen A. Douglas second, and Brecken-
ridge third in the fight. If I remember correctly,
Lincoln led Douglas between two and three hun-
dred votes, and Douglas led Breckenridge a few
votes less than three hundred. Bell and Everett
got some votes, but they were scattering. Eor
several days — the vote was so close — it was im-
S80 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
possible to tell wliicli party had carried the State.
At one time Lincoln would be a few votes in the
lead; then the next county heard from would give
Douglas the lead; then Breckenridge stock would
be looking up.
It was amusinc; to witness some of the scenes and
incidents that took ]>lace while the people were in
doubt as to the result in tlie State. Our post-
master — James O'Connor — was an old man and a
very large one, a genuine son of tlie Emerald Isle,
and " Breckenridge " to the backbone. The County
Treasurer — Krutchnett — was a Dutchman and a
Douglas Democrat, and worked hard among his
friends for Douglas. I was standing in the door of
the postoffice talking Avith O'Connor, when Krutch-
nett hove in sight. News had just arrived in
Weaverville that Douglas had carried the State.
Krutchnett had been " beering up " j^retty freely,
and coming across the street to where O'Connor and
I were standing, commenced swinging his hat close
to the old man's face, and shouting:
" Hurrah for Meester Touglas! IMeester Touglas
ees de fellow! Meester Touglas carries de Stadt of
California! Meester Touglas shall pee de bresident!"
The old man gave him one look, and then made
his sj)eech, as he grabbed the little fellow:
" Get out of here, you d — d beer-drinking Dutcli
half-breed! Get out of here, or I'll break ivery
bone in your Dutch carcass! "
Suiting the action to tlie words, old Jimmy
THE NASHVILLE CONVENTION. 381
heaved the little Dutcliinan halfway across the
street.
" Lay there, yon little sx^alpeen of a Dutclnnan,
until you larn to be a gintleman!"
Krutclmett picked himself up, aud swearing
vengeance against the Irish, and the old man in
particular, started for his gim; but he didn't get
back before I left. The old man remarked:
" John, I don't mind you llepublicans, but them
spalpeens of half-breeds — shure they're enuif to set
a Dimocrat craz} !"
In a few days reliable news came that Lincoln
had carried the State by a small plurality. Then
the old Republicans had somewhat of a jubilee — we
got out the anvils and made them ring for a time.
California was j^artly redeemed. We had one more
battle to tight before the victory was complete. In
a short time the news came from the East that Lin-
coln Avas elected, and the reign of the slave j)Ower
was forever ended.
382 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XLIir.
The Firing Upon Fort Sumter. — A Blaze of Patriotism.
Efforts to end the rule of the Bourbons.— The seceding States. — The
Confederate Government. — The inauguration of Lincohi. — Indigna-
tion meetings. — The movement to form a Pacific Republic. — The
call for volunteers. — The Knights of the Golden Circle. — Its objects.
— The Douglas City Rifles held in readiness.
After the election of Lincoln, the Kepublicans
of California began to make preparations to free the
State from the rule of tlie Bourbons. It became a
national necessity to do so, for, as soon as the
South was defeated at the ballot-box, she began to
make preparations to appeal to the cartridge-box.
South Carolina led off by passing an ordinance of
secession, and withdrawing her Senators and Rep-
resentatives from Congress. Others of the South-
ern States followed, and James Buchanan — the
President of the United States at that time —could
find no law to prevent the dismemberment of this
glorious Union, which he had sworn to defend and
protect. But it was said that he did all he could
covertly to forward the treasonable designs of the
leaders of the secession movement.
In December, 1860, when State after State
THE FIRING UPON FORT SUMTER. 383
«
was witlidvawing' from the Union, and men
whom the Government had educated— both in
the army and nav}' — to fight its battles and de-
fend it from its enemies, both foreign and
domestic, were resigning their commissions and
joining the enemies of the country which they
had sworn to protect and defend, with an (dd im-
becile (if no worse) in the Presidential chair, sur-
rounded by traitors as his chief advisors, the
country at the beginniug of 1861 was in a dei)lora-
ble condition — dark indeed was the country's x^ros-
l^ect. At that time every loyal American prayed
for the 4tli of March to come and Abraham Lincoln
in the Presidential chair. Rumors were circulated
that Lincoln would never be allowed to take his
seat; that he would be assassinated on his trip from
his home to AVasliington.
In tlie meantime the States that had seceded
were arming and drilling troops at a rapid rate, and
getting ready for an appeal to arms. The Govern-
ment had but few soldiers, and they w^ere spread
over tlie whole country. Seventy of tliem were
stationed at Charleston, South Carolina, in charge
of the United States forts and x^roperty tliere. The
Star of the West, an unarmed steamer in tlie Gov-
ernment emx)loy, while entering the harbor with
provisions for the garrison of Port Sumter, was
fired on by the rebel batteries, and turned back
without accomx)lishing its mission.
In the month of February, 1861, tlie delegates
384 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
from the rebel States met at Montgomery, Ala-
bama, and formed a government, calling it the Con-
federate States of America, witJi Jefferson Davis,
of Mississippi as President. With a flourish of
trumpets the new-born nation was ushered into the
world. The Confederacy then adopted the army
of South Carolina that was encamped before the
walls of Eort Sumter, with its bombastic com-
mander. General P. G. T. Beauregard — a fiery
Prench Creole from Louisiana.
The 4th of March at last arrived, and with it
came the nation's saviour, Abraliam Lincoln. As
already stated, there were rumors of plans to as-
sassinate the President-elect, and his friends thought
it best for him to go to Washington in disguise.
So, on the Ith day of March, 1861, Lincoln Avas in-
augurated — the first President Avhom it had become
necessary on inauguration to surround with the
army of the United States, in order to j)rotect his
person from the bullet or the dagger of the assassin.
That grand old patriot and soldier, General Scott,
had command at Washington that day, and
well did he perform his duty. The inauguration
l)assed off quietly. The loyal men and women
of the nation could rejoice and congratulate
each other on the happy event — they liad now
a patriot and statesman at the liead of the nation,
surrounded by a loyal cabinet. Men began to breath
more easily, but nearly every department of the
Government had its spies and traitors that had to
THE FIRING UPON FORT SUMTER. 385
be weeded out and dismissed from the public serv-
ice. In the meantime, the so-called Sonthern
Confederacy was arming and preparing for the
conflict that soon was to drench the land in blood.
In the month of April there were abont seven
thousand rebel soldiers, under General Beauregard,
besieging Eort Sumter, in Charleston harbor. The
garrison of Tort Sumter numbered but seventy sol-
diers, under the command of Major Anderson, a
Kentuckian who remained true to his Government.
On the 11th day of April General Beauregard sum-
moned Eort Sumter to surrender, but Major Ander-
son refused his modest request. General Beaure-
gard then made a grandiloquent address to his
rebels, something similar to the one which the
great Napoleon made to his soldiers before the
Battle of the Pyramids. He did not say that forty
centuries looked down on them, but that the whole
world was looking on them with surj)rise and ad-
miration, and said the man who doubted the result
must be far behind the times and bereft of reason.
Poor, vainglorious Beauregard! It would have
been better for him and the Southern people if he
and they had taken Avarning from an old prophecy
that is said to have been uttered many j^ears before
Beauregard issued his grandiloquent address, and
ran thus:
Let. the Southern Palmetto
Beware of the day,
When the Northern Pine
Comes in battle array !
386 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
The first sliot fired on Eort Siiinter, April 12,
1861, gave birth to a new nation — not such a nation
as the j)lotters at Montgomery had in contempla-
tion, a nation founded on ]inman slavery; but a
nation of free men! That shot Avasthe death-knell
of slavery, and caused the proclamation of freedom
throughout the land and to all the inhabitants
thereof. It is a truism, that " man proposes, but
God disposes."
After a bombardment of thirty or forty hours,
Eort Sumter fell, brave Anderson marching out
his seventy men to the tune of " Yankee Doodle,"
and saluting their colors. AVhen the news spread
that a United States fort had been captured by the
rebels in arms, indignation meetings were held in
nearly every town and city througliout the loyal
States, recommending and demanding the Presi-
dent to i)ut down rebellion and secession, and not
to count the cost, and that the Union must be jjre-
served. The country was one blaze of patriotism
from Maine to California, and the sound of martial
music was heard throughout the land.
To come back to California. After the election
of the President, the State was yet in the hands
and keeping of the pro-slavery Democracy. With
the South seceding and arming, and our State
CTOvernment under control of Southern sympathiz-
ers, the loyal men of California had to keep a sharp
lookout lest the sympathizers should carry Califor-
nia into the Southern Confederacy.
THE FIRING ON FORT SUMTER. 887
There was a small party in Wasliington, headed
by our Democratic Senators and Eepresentatives,
favorable to the establishment of a Pacific Eepub-
lic. If I remember correctly, John 0. Bnrch — one
of the members of Congress from California — pro-
posed it, and prei^arations were being made in this
State to carry it into effect. The leader of that
movement little understood the sentiment of a large
majorit}' of the people of California. As soon as
the news arrived in California of the fall of
Eort Sumter, one burst of indignation went forth
from the loyal people of the State, from Del Korte
to San Diego, sx^eaking in no uncertain tones, that
the Union must and should be preserved. Through-
out the length and breadth of the State the loyal
people showed their colors — on flumes, miners'
cabins, stores, dwellings and barns, and in men's
and women's hats. And at every public place in
the State was the starrv banner thrown to the
breeze, and woe to him who dared insult it. After
President Lincoln issued liis first proclamation for
seventy-five thousand men to put down f he rebel-
lion, many feared that John G. Downey, then
Governor of the State, Avould fail to respond and
furnish California's quota of troops, which I believe
was some four regiments. But Governor Downey
issued a call for volunteers, and in a short time had
more men than were needed. Many. of the boys
paid their own passage back to the States in order
to take a hand in the affray. Everywhere the
388 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
loyal sentiment was in the ascendant — on board
steamers, on the stages, in the hotels, and the whole
spirit of the country was changed as if by magic.
Business men who had never taken any part in
politics outside of voting, were now leading the
masses, giving of their time and money, and their
lives, if necessary, for the preservation of their
countrv. As the Union sentiment arose, the rebel
sentiment (that six months previous appeared to
be in the ascendant in the State) became quite do-
cile, and seemed to have taken a back-seat. Manv
men thought it was but a lull in the storm.
There was organized in Oalifoinia, about this
time, a branch of the secret rebel organization
known as the Knights of the Golden Circle, Avhich
was said to have been tirst organized in Soutliern
Indiana, and extended through the southern part
of Indiana, Illinois and Ohio. It was organized by
Southern sympathizers in the border States, and
had for its aims and objects the prevention of en-
listment of soldiers for the Union armies, ihe deser-
tion of Union soldiers, giving aid and assistance to
Southern rebels in every form that they possibly
could. This treasonable orgaAization had its
branches in California, and, it was said, numbered
thousands in its ranks. Many Union men thought
— and it gave them a good deal of uneasiness — that
in their secret meetings they Avere getting ready
for trouble in the State, which in after years I
learned was the truth.
THE FIRING UPON FORT SUMTER. 389
While living in Tombstone I became acquainted
with a gentleman named Waterman, who was a
Californian and a man of considerable influence in
the central portion of the State at the time. He in-
formed me that there was a certain Democratic State
Senator then (in 1861) in the Senate who had al-
ways worked and voted with tlie Breckenridge
wing of the Democratic party, but had not yet
committed himself to secession. He was a man of
considerable influence, and the Knights of the
Golden Circle were very anxious to get him to join
their ranks, and a proposition was made to him that
he should have a liigh command in their armv if
he would lend his aid to tlieir cause, and told him
how far their treason had gone. They informed
him that on a certain day ten tliousand Knights of
the Golden Circle were to assemble in and around
San Francisco, and beseige the United States forts
and arsenals. Albert Sidney Johnson Avas in com-
in and at the time. It was told him that General
Johnson was to deliver Fort Alcatraz up to them,
and they were to declare the State out of the Union,'
and join tlie Southern Confederacy. The Senator
put them oft' for some time, but went immediately
to one of the officers whom he knew he could trust,
and laid their treason before him. Immediatelv
there was sent to Washington their whole plan by
a trusty messenger. When the dispatches arrived
at Washington the President called a council and
sent for General Sumner, who was at the head of
390 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
liis division in the field, and dispatched him to Cal-
ifornia to replace General Johnston. The whole
thing Avas done secretly — no person knew, outside
of the council of war, that General Sumner had
been sent to California. On the steamer he was
known to no person but the captain. Arriving in
the harbor of San Erancisco, tlie steamer was stop-
ped in front of Fort Alcatraz, a small boat put off
from the steamer and landed the General at the
fort, with orders from the President and Secretary
of War to General Johnston, to turn over his com-
mand to General Sumner.
At that time I belonged to the State troops— the
Douglas City Rifles, a company organized at
Douglas City, Trinity county. The same express
that brought the news of the arrival in California
of General Sumner, also brougiit to the Douglas
City Rifles orders to hold themselves in readiness
to march at one hour's notice, with forty rounds of
ball cartridges to the man, and, if we had any
spare arms, not to leave them in the armories, and
to take our arms home with us. Tlie first order
there was no occasion for, as there was i)lenty of
Union boys ready and willing to use them. The
second part of the order was strictly enforced.
Every regiment and company throughout the State
received the same orders. General Johnston, on
being relieved of his command, started overland by
the southern route, and, arriving in the Confeder-
acy, was given command of the rebel armies of the
THE FIRING UPON FORT SUMTER- 391
Southwest, and was killed in the second day's fight
at the battle of Shiloh, or Pittsburg Landing.
Thus was our State saved from bloodshed and
the horrors of civil war by the prompt and decisive
action of the President and his advisors. General
Sumner remained in command until the danger
was passed and a loyal man was put in command.
The Democratic Senator a short time after was ap-
pointed to a foreign mission by President Lincoln.
It was said that the third day after General
Johnston was relieved was the day aj)pointed for
the plotters to carry out their treason.
o92 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XLIV.
The Political Campaign of i86i.
The three parties.- — The State Convention.- — The candidates. — Union or
secession. — The State carried by the Republicans. — Governor Stan-
ford. — The Legislature adjourns to San Francisco on account of the
flood.—" Old Secesh " and the " Abolishiners."
I stated in my last letter that the State Govern-
ment was in the hands of the rebel wing of the
Democratic party. It was the wish of every true
American, whether native-born or naturalized, to
see California in the hands of men of undisputed
loyalty. As the time drew near for that election in
September, 1861, the Republicans did all in their
power to concentrate the loyal element into one
party, and have but one convention; but the Douglas
or loyal wing of the Democratic party came so near
carrying the State at the Presidential election one
year previous, that their leaders imagined their
chances were equally as good as the chances of the
Republicans to win tlie State. So there were again
three parties in the field.
The Republicans called a convention to nominate
a State ticket and two Congressmen. The State
was not yet divided into Congressional districts.
THE POTITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1S61. 398
The Rejiublican Convention met at Sacramento
in June, 1861, assembling at Rev. Mr. Benton's
church on N^inth street. I believe every county in
the State was represented, and the Republicans
were full}' determined to have the State Govern-
ment in the hands of loyal men. Leland Stanford,
a merchant of Sacramento, had been their standard-
bearer for two years before, and had made a good
canvass and a good run, although defeated. He was
a man of excellent reputation, and the convention
nominated him on the first ballot. Eor Lieutenant-
Governor, John E. Chillis of Trinity county, re-
ceived the nomination. For Congress, A. A. Sar-
gent of Nevada county, and T. G. Phelps of San
Mateo county, were nominated, and the Avhole
State ticket was composed of good and true men.
The convention had done its duty faithfully and
well; it now remained for the people at the polls to
ratify the work of the convention.
The Douglas Democrats called a convention, and
put a full State and Congressional ticket in the
field, headed by John Conness of El Dorado
county, for Governor. John Conness was an Irish-
man by birth, and raised in the State of New York
from early boyhood. He was a merchant, doing
business at Georgetown, El Dorado county. He
had been a warm supporter of the late lamented
Broderick, and, in fact, migiit be considered the
leader of that party in the State. He Avas sound to
the core on the Union question, and so were nine-
394 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
tenths of his followers. The balance of the ticket
was made up of good and loyal men.
The secession or Breckenridge wing of the Demo-
cratic party held its convention, and nominated for
Governor John R. McConnell, of Nevada county,
with a fall State ticket and the two Congressmen.
If I remember correctly, every man nominated on
that ticket was said to be a secessionist.
The issue of Union or secession was plainlj-^ be-
fore the voters of California — the lines were drawn,
and the fight Avas now at the ballot-box, and we did
not know how soon it Avould be appealed to the
cartridge-box. As soon as tlie three tickets were
completed and before the peoj^le for their support,
each party put its best speakers in the field. The
Republicans now had the advantage over their op-
ponents — the patronage of the Federal officers was
with them, while the McConnell or secessionist
wing had the State officers to their aid, and most of
the postoffices throughout the State. President
Lincoln had as yet removed but few of the post-
masters, as he had more important business on
hand about this time, and the Republicans had no
Senators or members of Congress at Washington to
look after such matters. Lincoln was decidedlv
opposed to removing, and made it one of the j)rin-
cipal points of his administration not to remove any
loyal man from office on account of his former
political affiliations.
The Douglas Democrats had to make their fight
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1861. 395
without the «assistance of any " public pap," either
State or National. They canvassed the State well,
and deserved better success for their pluck and
energy. Their speakers from the stump denounced
secession and treason, while they gave the Repub-
licans a dressing down for their interference with
slavery in the Territories, and for electing what they
called a " sectional President." The canvass waxed
warm before its close; yet it was conducted on very
fair tactics — all the former slang and vilification
that was hurled at the Republican party had now
ceased. The fact of the case was that men would
not stand any more such foolishness, and the State
stood, as it were, on a volcano which the slightest
spark might ignite. Public speakers were very
cautions in their utterances from the stump. The
secession wing did not make much of a canvass in
the northern portion of tlie State, outside of Sonoma
and Mendocino, but in the central and southern
portions of the State they got in their work. The
other two parties made a thorough canvass of the
whole State. San Prancisco and Sacramento were
Republican — the old Sacramento Union, then under
the editorial management of Anthony & Co., was
the leading Union paper in the State, and wielded
a powerful influence with the people — you could
not go into a miner's cabin or scarcely a farmhouse
in the State but what you found the Union. As
soon as the first shot was fired at Port Sumter, old
man Anthony ran up the stars and stripes, and
f396 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
kept them flying at the mast-head, and his paper
did noble work for the Union during the war.
The election came oif in September. The Repub-
licans carried the State, electing Leland Stanford
Governor, John F. Chillis, Lieutenant-Governor,
with both Sargent and Phelps to Congress, and a
full State ticket. Neither of the three parties had
anything like a majority in either house of the
Legislature, but the Republicans had more mem-
bers than either of the others, and one thing the
loyal people had to congratulate themselves on was
the fact that a majority of the members-elect of
both Houses were sound on the Union, No matter
how much the Kepublicans and Douglas Democrats
diiiered on minor questions, they were together
when the Union and their country was at stake.
Leland Stanford and the Republican ticket was
elected by rather a larger plurality than had been
given Lincoln one year previous. John Conness,
the Douglas Democrat, was second best, and John
R. Mc Council, secessionist and rebel, in the rear.
It was a day of rejoicing to the loyal men of the
State. All before was uncertainty and doubt; but
election showed clearly where the people of Cali-
fornia stood. They proclaimed in no uncertain
tones at the ballot-box, that the Union must and
should be preserved.
The Legislature that was elected in 1861 met at
Sacramento, but had to adjourn to San Francisco
on account of high water.
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 1861. 397
The winter of 1861-2 was the most severe
winter that California had experienced since its
settlement by Americans. Everywhere it rained
or snowed; flood after flood folloAved each other in
qnick succession; the Sacramento Kiver was one
vast sheet of water fr(mi mountain to mountain.
During one of its highest stages I was a passenger
on the old steamer " Gem," from Sacramento to
Red Bhitf. The only way the i)il<>t could tell
where the channel of the river was, was by the
Cottonwood trees on each side of the river. The
boat had to stop several times and take men out of
the tops of trees and off the roofs of houses. In our
trij) up the river we met j)rox)erty of ever}^ descrip-
tion floating down — dead horses and cattle, sheep,
hogs, houses, haystacks, household furniture, and
everything imaginable was on its way for the
ocean. Arriving at Ked Bluff, there Avas water
everywhere as far as the eye could reach, and Avhat
few bridges there had been in the country were all
swex^t away. I managed to get to Cottonwood, and
had to lav over for a week before anv of the streams
between there and Hav Fork Yallev were fordable.
During that trip I was the cause of making my
old and esteemed friend, Ben Blockburg — now of
Blocksburg — take a cold and unpleasant ride one
night. It happened in this way:
There was an old fellow living between Kelly's
and Grave's, on Dry Creek and the Cole Fork of
Cottonwood — I have forgotten his name, but he
898 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
was known in that region as " Old Secesli." Tlie
old fellow frequently kept lodgers, as nearly every
person had to do that lived on any of the public
roads or trails of the day. On my trip to Sacra-
mento, about a month previous, I stopped over
night at the Cole Eork of Cottonwood — a man
named Cole kept the house. There I met " Old
Secesh" for the first time. He was an old Mis-
sourian, would weigh two hundred and seventy-five
or three hundred pounds, and chock-full of seces-
sionism. Cole informed me about the old fellow,
and then introduced me to him. The Avar was then
the theme of all conversation, and it was soon in-
troduced. " Old Secesh " and myself went at it
pretty strong. I got the old fellow fighting mad
several times, and finall}' he said:
'' You must be one of them dog-goned abolish-
iners that was always running off our niggers in
Missouri! Dog-gon yer skin! I kin whip ycr in a
minnit!"
Then I would let up on the old fellow until I
would get him in a good humor, but in a little
while would have him on his muscle again. So we
put in the evening, much to the amusement of the
crowd, and when it was bed-time I asked the old
fellow, with the remainder of the crowd, up to take
a drink. Keaching him my hand, I said:
" Let Abe and Jeff fight it out there — it will not
do you and me any good to fight over it here."
" Old Secesh " looked fight, and then said:
THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN OF 18()1. 399
" I'll be dog-goned if I'll drink with a Lincoln
abolishener, if it saved my dog-goned life."
I told him in about a month from that time I
would be back that way, and, with his permission,
I would stop at his house over night, and we would
have the argument out. The old fellow did not say
yes or no. I was delayed below longer than I had
expected, and did not get back for six weeks. In
the meantime, my friend " Block " was on his way
from Red Blutf to Hay Eork, where he was then in
the mercantile business. ''Block" was then a
bachelor, and some thirty years younger than he is
now. " Old Secesh " had a young lady for a
daughter, and "Block" wanted to make the family's
acquaintance, more especially that of the young-
lady. " Block " left Cole's, on the Cottonwood, and
timed himself so as to reach " Old Secesh's " about
sundown or dark. When he got there he found a
boy chojjping wood at the door. (I will here re-
mark, and I hope my friend " Block " will not be
offended at it, that at that time we looked somewhat
alike — about the same hight and weight and com-
plexion, so that a description of one of us would
answer for both). Well, " Block " rode up to the
boy and said:
"Good evening! Is your father at honied " The
boy eyed him from head to foot, and after a minute
said:
" No, he ain't."
" Block " said he wanted to stay all night — could
400 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
he do so'? The" boy took another look at him and
said :
" I know you."
" Well," " Block" said, " who am IV
" You live at Hay Eork Yalley; your name's
John Oarr, 'nd you told pap you was a abolishener,
'nd you can't stay hyer, dog-gon yer."
" Block " told the boy his name, and added that
he was not an abolishener, but a good Democrat;
and wanted to see his mother. The boy called:
"Marmlcome hyar!" The old lady made her
appearance at the door, smoking a corn-cob pipe.
"Mam, this is that abolishener, Oarr, from Hay
Fork, and wants to stay all night."
" Stranger," said the old lady, " this is a mighty
unhealthy place for an abolishener to stay at. I
reckon you better move on." She would listen to
no explanations, and there was nothing left for
" Block " but to ride on in the dark and cold to
Kelly and Graves', four miles further on, with no
prospect of making the acquaintance of the young
lady from Pike. " Block " twits me very often up
to this day about being the cause of his not getting
a night's lodging, and losing the chance of making
the acquaintance of the " gal from Pike."
UNION OF DOUGLAS DEMOCRATS AND REPUBLICANS. 401
CHAPTER XLV.
The Union of the Douglas Democrats and the Republicans.
The rejoicings of loyal men. — '' Union for the sake of union." — The
political history of John P. Jones. — The defeat of George C. Gorham.
— John Conness elected U. S. Senator. — William M. Gwin, "the
Duke of SonoBa."
In September, 1861, Leland Stanford and the
whole Rej)ubl]*can State ticket, with the two Con-
gressmen, A. A. Sargent and Timothy Guy Phelps,
was elected. The vote of the State Avas nearly
equally diyided, the Ilej)ublicans haying a few
hundred plurality oyer Conness, the Douglas Demo-
crat, and Conness a few hundred plurality oyer
John R. McConnell, the " secesh " candidate.
Neither of the three parties had a majority in the
Legislature, but Kex^ublicans and Douglas Demo-
crats, by uniting their forces, had a fair working
majority. The Legislature met at Sacramento and
adjourned to San Prancisco, on account of Sacra-
mento being oyerflowed. The loyal men of the
State now felt as if their country was safe — Abra-
ham Lincoln in the Presidential chair, and Leland
Stanford, an able and loyal man, Goyernor of the
402 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
State. What a change one year had made ! One
year previous, all was doubt and fear. Ko man
could tell what the next turn in the political wheel
might briiig fortli; but now all Union men, whether
Republicans or Democrats, could see their country
and State Avas in the hands and keeping of patriots
and statesmen. The Union men in the Legislature
wisely came to the conclusion, with all other Union
men of the State, that there were but two parties in
the State — one for the Union, with an undivided
country, and the stars and stripes for its flag, and
freedom for its motto; the other party advocated
treason, disunion, slavery and secession. Thus
stood the parties Avhen that memorable Legislature
of 1862 met at San Erancisco.
It now became necessarv to unite all Union men
in the State in one great National party. " Union
for the sake of Union," Avas the motto. Before the
Legislature adjourned the Rej^ublicans and Union
Democrats met in caucus, each party agreeing to
drop the names they had so long done battle under,
and be known as the Union party of California.
The loyal people of the State heartily endorsed the
doings of their rej)resentatives, and for several years
there were but the two parties — Union and seces-
sion. It was after the war that the Kej)ublican
party resumed its original name, and our Demo-
cratic brethren got over thinking it a disgrace to
be called a black Republican.
It was in the election of 1861 that J. P. Jones,
UNION OF DOUGLAS DEMOCRATS AND REPUBLICANS. 403
now Senator from Nevjida, came to the surface.
Jones had been knocking about Weaverville since
1851 or 1852 — somewhat like Andy Johnson,
swinging around the circle — and had been twice
elected Justice of the Peace for Weaver town-
ship by the Democrats ; had been a clerk and
a deputy sheriif, and private secretary to I. G.
Messic, a caj)tain of the troops sent to put down
the Indians in the Indian war of 1858. This was
waged by the settlers of Trinity and Humboldt
counties, against tlie hostile Indians then laying
waste witli fire and murder the outside settlements
of both counties. Jones received the nomination on
the Democratic ticket in 1861 for Sheriif of Trinity.
The Democrats were united on the county ticket.
John A. Watson, so well known in Humboldt
county, and for many years County Clerk of this
county, was the Republican nominee against
Jones. Jones was elected by a small majority, and
served out his term. The sheriff's, previous to
1862, was the leading office in the mining counties.
He had the collecting of the foreign mining license.
The law was very deficient, and it was an easy
matter to swindle the State — it seemed to have
been enacted for that purj)ose. Whether any of
our sheriffs ever took advantage of it I am unable
to say, but it was an office much sought after.
Cliinamen's testimony was not taken for much, and
they were the only ones who had to pay the license.
The Legislature of 1862 divided the office, and made
404 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the collector of foreign miners' license a separate
office. Then the collector's office was the one
sought after. Men frequently swapped their votes
for President of the United States for that of the
Sheriff's office for their friends.
The next election occurred in 1863. As before
stated, the Legislature of 1862, or the Union mem-
bers thereof, before adjournment, held several
Union meetings, dropping their old names and
adopting that of the Union party of California.
Under the name of the Union party the conven-
tions of 1863 Avere called. John P. Jones up to
that time had been a Democrat, but a Union
Democrat, and was nominated for State Senator for
the counties of Trinity and Shasta. He was little
known outside of Trinity county, and the people
of Trinity knew little of his ability. He stum]3ed
both counties, and proved himself to be among the
best orators of the State. He was elected to the
Senate by a large majority in both counties, and
served with distinction in that body. In 1867 he
received the nomination for Lieutenant-Governor
on the Republican ticket, with Greorge 0. Gorham
for Governor, and they both met a disastrous de-
feat, H. H. Haight carrying the State. Jones being
soon after appointed superintendent of one of the
large mines in Kevada, went to that State to re-
side, and in a few years was elected United States
Senator, which position he still holds.
A few words about the defeat of George 0. Gorham
UNION OF DOUGLAS DEMOCRATS AND REPUBLICANS. 405
for Governor. During the war, and for some time
after, a nomination on the Union ticket was equiv-
alent to an election — the State was overwhelm-
ingly Union. Then the spoilsmen and political
sharks began their manipulation. Eor some time
previous to the State Convention of 1867, tliere
were two factions in the party, commonly known
as "the long-hairs " and "the short-hairs." The
" long-hairs " were mostly composed of the old-line
Re]3ublicans, and their favorite candidate for Gov-
ernor was John Bidwell of Butte county. He was
then a member of Congress, and considered a good
man. The " short-hairs " were generally Douglas
Democrats, or the free-and-easy portion of them,
with the same class of Rejmblicans, and their
strength lay in San Francisco and Sacramento.
Their champion was George C. Gorham. Gorham
had been private secretary to Governor Low, and
was considered one of the best politicians and wire-
pullers in the State. He and J. P. Jones made a
full team when pulling together for the same end,
which they were now doing. John Bidwell was a
different man from Gorham. He was above wire-
pulling and political trickery, and a firm believer
in the American principle that the office ought to
seek the man, instead of the man seeking the office.
George C. Gorham was a j)olitician in every sense
of the word, and believed that everything was fair in
politics. I fully believe that three-fourths of the
Union party of the State were Bidwell men, and
406 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the delegates went to the coiiAention as such, but
some of them were captured by Gorham — a suffici-
ent number to give Gorham and Jones the nomina-
tions for Governor and Lieutenant-Governor. This
was the first split that had taken place in the
Union party since its organization. The dissat-
isfied called a convention at San Francisco, and
nominated Caleb T. Eay for Governor. He did
not make much of a run, but ,got a few thousand
votes -enough to elect the Democratic GoAcrnor.
H. H. Haight, the Democratic nominee, had been
one of the early Ilepublicans of the State, and, if I
remember correctly, the first Secretary of the Re-
publican State Central Committee, and was an
active member of tlie party up to the time that
President Lincoln issued his emancipation j)i"ocla-
mation. It was said tliat Mr. Haight \s mother-in-
law owned several slaves in Missouri at the time
the President issued the proclamation, and Haight
did not endorse it, but turned Democrat. Gover-
nor Haight proved himself to be an honest man and
a man of a good deal of ability, and made a good
Governor for California. G. C. Gorham was, after
his defeat, elected Secretary of the United States
Senate at Washington. John P. Jones went to
Nevada, and was elected to the United States Sen-
ate. Keither of them figured in California politics
after their defeat in 1867 — they got a big political
" disgust on, " and left the State.
But, to come back to 1862. The Legislature that
UNION OF DOUGLAS DEMOCRATS AND REPUBLICANS. 407
Avas elected that year had a vacancy to fill in the
United States Senate, Gwin's term having expired
or would expire before another Legislature would
assemble. There were several aspirants for the
office, but John Conness of El Dorado county
seemed to have the inside track. He had made a
gallant tight for his party and the Union in 1861,
when Leland Stanford was elected Governor, and
had used his influence in bringing all Union men
together and uniting them under one political ban-
ner, and the loyal peojile of the State had every
confidence in his patriotism and his honesty. He
was nominated in caucus, and elected to succeed
William M. Gwin. G^vin, after his term exx^ired,
went South, but the rebels had no use for him, and
he shortly after migrated to Mexico, to help Maxi-
milian establish an empire in our sister Kexniblic.
It was said that Maximilian created him ''Duke
of Sonora," but he did not wear his honors long.
His master, the Emperor, was shot by the Mexicans,
and Gwin left the country in disgust and came back
to California minus the dukedom. The old gentle-
man died a few years ago. Few men in the State
had the j)olitical experience of Mr. Gwin. Coming
here before California was a State, he took a promi-
nent part in the convention that formed the State
Constitution, and was one of the leading members of
the convention. He had been in Congress from
the State of Mississippi, and, like a large number
of Southern politicians, he came to California for
408 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the purpose of receiving office. The United States
Senate was his ambition, and he succeeded in ob-
taining the prize, he and Jolm C. Ereniont being
elected California's first Senators, in the fall of 1849,
the first session of the Legislature being held at
San Jose. Eor over ten years he was the most con-
spicuous figure in California politics, and generally
at the top of the ladder. The part he took in the
killing of Senator Broderick, in the Terry and
Broderick duel, killed him politically in California.
A family's move to HUMBOLDT. 409
CHAPTER XLVI.
A Family's Move to Humboldt,
Packing babies in boxes by pack-train. — Eureka as it was in 1866 com-
pared with Eureka in 1890.
In the year 1866 I made up my mind to
change my place of residence. Eor years I haci
been thinking of making Humboklt county my
j)ennanent home. In the fall of that year I partly
sold out ni}^ property, and got ready for atrip across
the mountains to Humboldt. It was no small
undertaking at that time, as everything had to be
packed on mules, and we had six children, only
two of whom were old enough to be able to ride.
The other four had to be carried in arms, or
packed in boxes on mules. I employed Henry
Allen of Hyampom, who owned a pack-train, to
take my family and goods from Hay Pork Valley
to H} desville, in Humboldt county. After making
all necessary arrangements, such as making boxes
in which to carry the babies, and putting up packs
and lunches for use on the road, we got started.
We intended to reach Allen's ranch at Hyampom
the first day out, and there remain over night, but
410 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
we were late in getting started, and did not reach
that point until long after dark.
^N^ext day we got an earlier start, and crossed the
South Fork Mountain and down to Pilot Creek,
and camped on the mountain between Pilot Creek
and Mad River. The Indian war had just closed,
and the troops were disbanded, and there were said
to be some hostile bands of Indians at large in the
mountains. Just before dark we heard several
shots tired down on Mad River that somewhat
alarmed us, not knowing but they were fired by
Indians. I afterwards learned that these shots
were fired by a j)arty of hunters. The next day we
made the head of Yager Creek, the first settlement
we reached in Humboldt county. Kext day we
reached Hydesville all right. The children stood
the trip in their boxes very well. My destination
was Eureka.
After resting at Hydesville for one day we started
for Eureka, hiring a man with an old spring wagon
to take us there. It was evening when y^e arrived
at that place.
The afternoon before we got to Eureka, this side
of Table Bluif, one of those cold fogs came up that
go right through one and chill him through, no
matter how much clothing he may have on. Com-
ing from Hay Pork Valley, where we had clear
skies and warm, beautiful weather, we were as
homesick a crowd as ever made their appearance
in Eureka.
EUREKA AS IT WAS IN 1866. 411
Eureka as I found it in the year 1866, twenty-
four years ago, was but a small place, situated on
the south side of Humboldt Bay, and principally
built on the water front. First street was the prin-
cipal street of the town. Eureka for several } ears
after did not arrive at the dignity of a city.
The town was governed by a Board of Town
Trustees, five in number. The j) residing officer was
called the President »of the Board, and was
selected out of the Board at their first meet^
ing after their election. The Clerk of the Board
was also one of the Board, elected by the Board
at the same time as the President. The fol-
lowing named gentlemen composed the town gover-
ment in 1866: R. W. Brett, President of the Board,
and James M. Cox, John Keleher, James M.
Short and Allan McKav as Town Trustees. Allan
McKav was Town Clerk. The Citv Marshal was
David Fairfield; Assessor, N. Bullock; Treasurer,
T. H. Eoss; City Attorney, James Hanna. Only
one of that Board is now living — James M. Short.
The other members of the Board of 1866 have paid
the debt of nature. The town's taxable j^ropert}^
amounted to about five hundred thousand dollars.
There were about two miles of graded streets in the
city limits. The j)rincipal mercantile houses were
on Eirst street, viz: Janssen &> Co., P. H. Byan,
Thomas Walsh, L. C. Smith & Co., Rohner &
EUery, W. J. Sweasey and Heney Bros. M. H.
Baldwin was in the harness and saddlery business.
412 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Jolin Pollard kept a slioe-sliox); AYeck & Short a
drug-store. Waller also kej)t a drug-store. The
postoffice Avas also on Eirst street, with Charles
Heney as postmaster. 0. E. Bigelow ran a black-
smitli's shop. There were two hotels, both on
Eirst street — the old Liek House, recently pulled
down, then kej)t by Tom Kelly, and the Kuss
House, kept by E. Bulkeley.
Eureka supported at that time two doctors — Dr.
Barber and Dr. Clark ; and six lawyers — James
Hanna, J. J. DeHaven, Judge Havens, Walter S.
Brock, Charles Westmoreland and A. C. Lawrence.
S. M. Buck came back from Washoe in 1869. Dr.
O. J. Gates, dentist, used to pay Eureka a flying
visit occasionally.
Eureka had at that time four saw-mills running.
John Vance's, where it now stands ; D. B. Jones
& Co's small mill and a large one on the Island,
and Dolbeer & Carson's mill. Dolbeer & Carson's
old mill was burned in 1880, and a larger and
much improved mill was built in its place.
Second street was but little built upon. On
the corner of E and Second streets the previ-
ous summer the Masons and Odd Eellows had
built a two-story building, the largest building
then in town. Both these orders occupied the
ui)per story for lodge-rooms. Ben Eeigenbaum oc-
cupied the lower story with a general merchandise
store. There were two small buildings between
the corner of E and G streets. That corner Avas
EUREKA AS IT WAS IN 1866. 413
occupied hy an old building wliich was used as a
boarding-bouse for Jobn Yance's mill hands. It
was pulled down by Mr. Vance when he built the
Vance House. From the corner of Second and G,
on both sides of the street, were principally dwell-
ing-houses as far as the old court-house. The
Humboldt Times occupied the southwest corner of
E and Second streets. It was owned and edited by
J. E. W} man. On the corner of E and Second
streets 0. W. Long and A. H. Gilbert were keej)-
ing a livery-stable. John T. Young had a sa-
loon on the opi3osite corner. H. M. Williams was
running a liver} -stable on the corner of Second and
D streets. What was known as the Duff boarding-
house was on the corner of Second and streets,
and was recently pulled down to make room for
the Grand Hotel.
Second street was then the main entrance to the
town. Third and Fourth street below E were not
yet open, but the ground they pass over was a
quagmire. E street between Third and nearly to
Fifth was in the same condition. The Rev. W. L.
Jones and Major Long were the first to build south
of Sixth street on E. They had to build a plank
path-way over the marsh, to get to their homes.
AH below Fourth on D and C was partly brush
and timber down to Second street. Third street
was not yet graded. Huge stumps and logs filled
the streets as far as Ninth street, and there scatter-
ing trees and logs were seen until you reached the
414 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
woods. In the upper part of the town, all south of
Tourth street was forest. Clark's Addition was not
yet laid out, and that part of the town was a forest,
the Avoods coining down to Sixth street on J).
Eureka had one steamer making two trips j)er
month to San Francisco, and several sailing vessels
engaged in the lumber trade, and sometimes carry-
ing freight and passengers between Eureka and San
Erancisco. R. W. Brett's saloon, or "Brett's
Court," as it was generally called, was tlie general
headquarters for all the wags in town. Every niglit
one could there hear all the scandals of the town
retailed, the news of the day discussed, the cases in
court tried, and all manner of jobs concocted. It
was headquarters for all the sea captains, and a
jolly set they were, spinning their yarns, and having
a good time generally. There were four other
saloons in the town at that time.
George Yance was running a blacksmith shop
on F street below First.
Eureka had one lodge of Masons, with C. W.
Long as W. M., and J. S. Murray Sen. Secretary,
and one lodge of Odd Fellows.
Eureka had in 1866 about one hundred and
twenty school children. Three schools were taught.
The Grammar School was taught by Solomon Cooper
in the old land-office building, upstairs, on the
corner of Fourth and G streets. The Intermediate
School was taught by Miss Maggie Murray, on the
corner of G and Third streets, in the old building
EUREKA AS IT WAS IN ISfifi. 415
still standing there, as a memorial of pioneer days.
The Primary School was taught by Mrs. Parker, on
tlie corner of I and Third streets, in an old shantr
devoid of lining or paper. The school property of
the city was valued at about six hundred dollars.
The Methodists had partly built a school building,
now owned by the Catholics and known as the
Catholic Convent, but failed in the undertaking,
and it was sold to its j)resent owners. The Rev. W.
L. Jones was County Superintendent of Schools at
that time.
In 1866 Eureka was supplied with three churches,
the Congregational, the Catholic and the Methodist.
All the church buildings of that time have since
been replaced by new, better and larger ones. The
First Congregational Church building then in use
is now a livery-stable, and occupied as such by
Lafayette Ayres. The o d Methodist building was
sold to P. H. Ryan, and moved to the corner of
Pirst and E streets, and is now run and known as
McNally's saloon. The old Catholic building was
moA ed back to I street, and is yet used for religious
purposes. The Eire Department was composed of
one hand engine (the present " Old Torrent ") with
one fire company, of which P. H. Ryan was fore-
man. There was one line of stages running between
Hydesville and Eureka, owned by Bullard &
Sweasey, and making daily trips. One line was
running between Eureka and Areata.
Eureka at that time was a lively place for a
416 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
small town, full of business and with plenty of
money.
I have endeavored to give my readers a correct
idea of what Eureka was twenty-four ^^ears ago.
EUREKA AS IT IS IN 1890.
When we look back over the space of twenty-
four years, we see the growth and prosperity of
Eureka, and see it rise from a little hamlet into a
full-fledged city with over five thousand inhabitants,
without the aid of any " boom " or wild speculation.
Her growth has been sure and permanent ; each
year her property and population are increasing,
and new lines of business starting out to give em-
ployment to her people. Her business men as a
general thing are doing well. Her credit stands
number one abroad, there being fewer failures
here than in any other toAvn in the State doing the
same amount of business. Her school svstem is
good. The Public Schools now employ tAventy-
seven teachers, with two thousand and sixty-seven
children within school age, and over one thousand
in daily attendance. Her school j)roperty is of the
value of one hundred and seventeen thousand six
hundred and forty dollars. Eureka has one private
academy controlled by Prof. N. S. Phelps, and
another under the control of the Catholics.
EUREKA AS IT IS IN 1890. 417
Eureka has now eleven church buildings erected,
or in the course of erection, by the diiferent denom-
inations of Christians, and one congregation of
" Salvationists." Eureka has five large saw-mills
with shingle-mills attached, three molding-mills,
four shingle-mills not connected with saw-mills,
two shipyards where seven ocean vessels were built
and on the stocks this year, one boiler-shop, one
machine-shop, one brass foundry, two foundries,
seven blacksmith and wagon-shops, one saw-works,
one soap factory, two gunsmith shops, seven shoe-
maker shoj)S, two candy factories, five silversmith
and watchmaker shops, four merchant tailors,
three brick-yards, two breweries, two dyeing
establishments, four cigar factories, four harness
and saddlery shoj)S, five butcher-shops, two soda
factories, and two marble -cutters.
Her mercantile business comprises five banks,
twelve grocery and provision stores, seven clothing
stores for men, twelve stores of ladies' goods, some
of them carrying men and boys' clothing, seven
hardware and tin stores, seven fruit and candy
stores, three fruit and vegetable stores, three whole-
sale liquor stores, forty saloons, two feed-stores,
three stationary and variety stores, four merchant
shoe-stores, one tea and coifee store, two paint and
oil-stores, two wagon and carriage houses, seven
drug-stores, seven furniture stores, eleven cigar
and tobacco stores, three steam laundries, five livery-
stables, one yankee notion store, one fish market.
418 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
one ship-chandler's store, six hotels, five restau-
rants, two daily papers, four weekly papers, seven
real estate ofiices, seven dentists, ten doctors and
twenty-four lawyers.
The G. A. R. is represented by Post, Corps
and Camp, each of which contains a large member-
ship.
There are running between Eureka and San
Erancisco two steamers making weekly trips, which
gives Eureka eight steamers per month, besides
steam schooners that carry freight and passengers,
and a large fleet of sailing vessels engaged in the
lumber trade, and a number of small steamers
running on the bay.
Eureka's City Government is composed of the
following named gentlemen : The Hon. John
Vance, Mayor ; Councilmen, Eirst Ward, Alex-
ander Oonnick; Second Ward, Henry Sevier ;
Third Ward, W. L. Heney ; Eourth Ward, Solo-
mon Cooper; Eifth Ward, W. S. Clark; City
Clerk, James Keleher ; City Attorney, James N.
Gillett; City Marshal, ]t^. G. Lindsay ; Assessor,
Daniel J. Eoley ; Treasurer, James G.D. Crichton;
Police Judge, John Carr; Health Officer, Dr. S. B.
Eoster; Da}^ Police, John Mclsaacs; Night Police,
George B. Hall and Joseph L. Bulkeley. Council
meetings first Monday of each month.
The city is completely out of debt and on a cash
basis. The assessed value of her property is
three million five hundred thousand dollars. There
EUREKA AS IT IS IN 1890. 419
are forty miles of graded streets, liaving twelve-foot
sidewalks within the city limits.
Tlie City Fire Department is composed of four
volunteer companies well organized, and as effi-
cient as those of anv citv on tlie Coast. She lias
two Silsbnry's steam lire engines, one hand engine,
five thousand six hundred feet of first-class hose,
five hose-carts, one hook and ladder apparatus.
Cephas Acheson is the Chief Engineer of the
dej)artment, and Robert Holmes is the Assistant
Engineer.
420 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER XLVII.
BIOGRAPHY.
This work would not be complete without a short
biography of some of the pioneers. The limits of
this book forbid a notice of all the pioneers who are
worthy of such notice. Nevertheless, the list
which follows will be found to be quite extensive
in respect to Humboldt and Trinity counties, and
cannot fail to be of great interest to the surviving
pioneers of those counties, and to the friends and
descendants of all the j)ioneers.
ALBEE, J. P. — A native of Ohio. Came from Illinois to California
in 1850, across the plains. Occupation, stockraiser. Was killed by the
Indians in 1862 at Redwood Ranch, Humboldt county.
ALBEE, CALTHA— Wife of J. P. Albee ; came to California by way
of Nicaragua in 1852. Residence, Eureka.
ARBOGAST, MINERVA and HENRY— Were niece and nephew of
H. F. Janes. Minerva is now the widow of E. Prigmore, and a resident
of Janes Creek. Henry is n business in San Jose.
AXTON, HENRY — A native of Kentucky; came to California in
1850, and engaged in farming. Residence", Eureka.
ANDERSON, COLIN — Is a native of Scotland ; came to California
in 1853 ; is a minister of the gospel — a Methodist.
BUHNE, HANS HENRY— Was born in Denmark, and came to
California in 1847. He was a sea-faring man, and his vessel was from
BIOGRAPHY. 421
the Behring Sea, where he had been whaling. He sailed with his vessel,
the "Clementine," to San Francisco for provisions. The ship returned
from McLena Bay in Mexico north to the whaling-ground, and from there
to the Navigator Islands, where the ship's crew heard of the discovery of
gold in California about November, 1848. From there the ship went to
Chile and took in freight and passengers for San Francisco, where she
arrived about the ist of June, 1849. After discharging the vessel he
went to Auburn and worked in the placer diggings for a couple of months.
Here he fell sick, and lay in his tent waiting for death to come. An old
townsman of his came into Auburn with an ox-team, and, finding Mr.
Buhne, took him in his wagon to Sacramento, and thence saw him safe
to San Francisco. Here Mr. Buhne went to board with a couple of
shipmates, Mr. Johnsen and William Brodersen, and -lay sick for five
months. Mr. Brodersen afterwards was a partner with Mr. Buhne in
business on Humboldt Bay. Mr. Buhne recovered from his sickness,
and was persuaded to ship as second mate on the schooner " Laura
Virginia," bound for the mouth of Trinity River. He accepted the offer,
feeling that it would be sure death if he stayed in San Francisco, inas-
much as dropsy had set in, with swelling in his feet, hands and face, and
that by going to sea he could not make his condition worse.
"The first night out from San Francisco a southeast storm of rain set
in, and I got wet. For one week I did not have a dry rag on my back.
" On our way north we discovered the mouth of Eel River. We tried
to enter this river. Captain Ottenger of the " Laura Virginia" took two
of our boats and tried to get into the river. On the bar one of the boats
upset, and one of the men was drowned. When Captain Ottenger w-as
steering the other boat and saw the boat upset in the breakers, he pulled
back to the vessel and got me to go with his boat to pick up the man,
who had succeeded in reaching the bottom of the capsized boat. I suc-
ceeded in saving the man and the boat.
" Continuing on our way north we discovered the mouth of Humboldt
Bay, Trinidad, Klamath River and Crescent City, an open harbor. Then
the 'Laura Virginia' returned south to Humboldt Bar, or what has
since been narried Humboldt Bar, on the morning of the 13th day of
April, 1850. I took the Captain's gig and crossed the bar and entered
the bay about 1 1 o'clock A. M., the first American seaman to enter Hum-
boldt Bay, and landed on the red bluff, which is now called Buhne's
Point. I went on the bluff and had a fine view of the bar, entrance and
the bay. The bay was literally covered with geese and ducks. While
422 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
waiting for high water on the bar, we started out and sounded the channel,
crossed the bar and went to the vessel and reported to Captain Ottenger.
We had found a fine channel, with a depth of three and a half fathoms
of water on the bar. In the afternoon about 4 o'clock we left the vessel
with two boats full of passengers with their outfit, and started to cross
Humboldt bar about 6:30 o'clock, but on coming to the bar some of the
passengers refused to cross it. We called the other boat up to us, ap-
pointed a chairman, and took a vote as to whether we should go in or not.
The majority voted to go in. We started, and passed the south spit about
8 o'clock p. M., and landed about where the light-house now stands, and
here camped the first night. We took soundings of the bay over to
what is now Buhne's Point, and located Humboldt City. Four days after-
wards we went out and brought in the vessel. This was the first vessel
to cross the bar after the American occupation."'
He then piloted the vessel over the bar, and sailed in her to San Fran-
cisco, and returned to the bay as a passenger, arriving in the bay May
6, 1850. He made his business piloting on Humboldt bar and keeping a
boarding-house on Buhne's Point. Growing tired of the business, he left for
Trinity River mines. Not meeting with much success in these mines, he
returned to Humboldt Bay on foot. He started to piloting again, and made
some money. He then went to San Francisco, intending to go into the
mercantile business at Humboldt Point. He got shipwrecked at Bodega
and lost all his goods, and he again went to San Francisco " broke " and
sick. He returned to Humboldt, disgusted with himself and the rest of
mankind.
He then went to hunting elk and deer for a living. His first butcheV-
shop was a board laid on two bo.xes at the corner of the plaza at Union-
town, where the old Kirby stable now stands. This was in 1851. He
kept at the hunting business until he shipped as Captain on the brig
" Colorado." After he had made a couple of trips in this vessel, Ryan &^
Duff, Captain James Hasty and Martin White, hired him as a pilot at six
hundred dollars per month, to take their sailing vessels in and out over
Humboldt bar. November 8, 1852, the steam tug " Mary Ann" arrived
off Humboldt bar. He then went on board and took charge of her, and
has had charge of her for almost thirty-eight years.
In 1865 he entered into partnership in the mill business with D. R.
Jones and others, forming the company known as D. R. Jones dr' Co. In
1 884 he sold his mill business to the California Redwood Company.
He is still in business with H. H. Buhne, Ji., in the ship-chandler and
BIOGRAPHY. 423
hardware business, and also in farming and dairying. Their hardware
and ship-chandler business is one of the most extensive on the northern
Pacific Coast. They have to-day part cargoes on ten different vessels be-
tween New York and San Francisco. The house and business stands
"A I."
BOHALL, WILLIAM— A native of New York ; came from Wiscon-
sin across the plains to California m 1852. Occupation, a farmer. Died
in 1883.
BOHALL, WALTER— A native of the State of New York ; came
from Wisconsin to California in 1852. A printer. Was Inspector of
Customs from 1862 to 1865 at Eureka.
BOHALL, WILLIAM M.— A native of New York ; came from Wis-
consin across the plains to California in 1852. A farmer.
BOHALL, CAROLINE C. CATHEY— A native of Missouri ; came
across the plains to California in 1849. Is the wife of Walter Bohall.
BROWN^ ELISHA — Came from Missouri across the plains with the
Lassen part}' in 1848. Deceased.
BROWN, HANNAH— Wife of Elisha Brown ; came from Missouri
in 1848.
BROWN, JAMES E. — Came across the plains in 1848 with the Lassen
party from Missouri.
BALL, JOTHAM T. — Came from Ohio across the plains to California
in 1853. Occupation, stockraiser. Residence, Salmon Creek.
BUCK, S. M. — A native of Maine ; came to California in 1856. Was
elected to the Legislature from San Joaquin county ; is one of the leading
members of the bar of Humboldt county. Residence, Eureka.
BARBER, J. P. — Was a native of Rhode Island; came to California
in June, 1851 ; is a carpenter by trade ; came to Humboldt county in
1858 ; died in 1875.
BARBER, GAliDNER C— Came to California in 1852 and to Hum-
boldt county in i'858 ; was a native of Rhode Island ; is a farmer ;
has served three terms as County Supervisor.
BARBER, CHARLES J.— Came to Cahfornia in 1851 and to Hum-
boldt county in 1858 ; is a carpenter.
BRUMFIELD, W. H. — A lawyer; native of Pennsylvania. Came
to California in 1853, and died at Eureka in 1886.
424 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
BRUMFIELD, ALICE DUNBAR— Wife of W. H. Brumfield ; is a
native of Michigan, and came to California in 1852.
BEACH, CHARLES E.— A native of New York ; came to California
in 1851 by way of the Isthmus. He arrived in San Francesco June 21,
185 1, and came to Humboldt in 1852. Occupation, miner and farmer.
BURNETT, THOMAS— A native of New York; came to California in
1849 ; is a gunsmith in Eureka.
BALLENTINE, SAM— A native of Ohio ; came to California in 1850,
and to Humboldt county in 1856. A lumberman and book-keeper.
Residence, Hydesville.
BRETT, R. W. — A native of England ; came from New Zealand to
California in 1849. L)ied December 22, 1877. A butcher. Was a member
of the City Council of Eureka.
BROWN, THOMAS M.— A native of Tennessee ; came across the
plains with an ox-team to California in 1849. ^^ ^''st a miner; Sheriff
of Klamath county thirteen years and of Humboldt county fifteen years.
BULKELEY, ELI PHALET— Came to California in 1852 from Wis-
consin. Was Sheriff of Humboldt four years. Died in August, 1890,
aged 78.
BULKELEY, J. L. — A native of Pennsylvania; came from Wisconsin
to California in 1854 ; is a policeman in the city of Eureka.
BURNS, ALBERT — A native of New York; came to California in
1849. Was a soldier in the Mexican war. Residence, Eureka.
BROWNELL, G. W. — Came from Illinois across the plains to Cali-
fornia in 1849.
BROWN, THEODORE H.— Came from Missouri in 1848 with the
Lassen party.
BRYANT, ROLLA— Came from Vermont across the Isthmus in 1852.
A farmer. Residence, Rohnerville.
BRYANT, LIZZIE — Came from Illinois across the plains in 1853.
BUGBEE, R. J. — Came from Michigan across the plains to California
in 1853. A farmer. Residence, Ferndale.
BUGBEE, MARY A.— Crossed the plains in 1852. Died, 1889. Wife
of R. J. Bugbe
BIOGRAPHY. 425
BUGBEE, MARK— Crossed the plains in 1853. Blacksmith. Resi-
dence, Ferndale.
BERDING, A. — Came from Rio Janeiro to California around Cape
Horn in 1847. Merchant. Residence, Ferndale.
CARSON, WILLIAM— Is a native of New Brunswick, and left his
home in that Province in 1849 to seek his fortune in California. Arrivino:
in San Francisco in the early part of 1850, he, like others, went to the
mines. The author's first acquaintance with Mr. Carson was in the
summer of 185 1. He was then building what was known as the " Arkan-
saw Dam " on Trinity River, with a number of others that have since be-
come pioneers of Humboldt county — among them Oliver Gilmore, Daniel
Morrison, Sandy Buchanan and Jerry Whitmore. William Carson and
Jerry Whitmore were two men that were appointed to watch where the
Indians crossed Trinity River after the murder of John Anderson in
1852, when the volunteers from Weaverville were on their track. Mr.
Carson, like many others, not being satisfied with the mines, came to
Humboldt in the fall of 1850, and went into the lumbering business.
William Carson and Jerry Whitmore in November of that year cut the
first tree for a sawlog that was ever cut on Humboldt Bay.
He with John Dolbeer formed the firm of Dolbeer Or' Carson in 1862,
and this has since been one of the most successful business firms on the
Pacific Coast, running mills and ships and owning large amounts of red-
wood timber lands, and conducting other industries which gave employ-
ment to hundreds of men each year, thereby building up and develop-
ing the county. Mr. Carson is a man of liberal ideas, always with a
liberal hand helping our public institutions that are for the advancement
of the people and the benefit of mankind. He is now President of the
Bank of Eureka, and stands in the community as a man above reproach.
CLARK, Dr. JONATHAN— Was born in Crawfordsville, Indiana, on
the 26th day of February, 1826. He was a lineal descendant of
Abraham Clark, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.
He received his education and graduated as a practitioner in medicine
and surgery in Iowa.
He crossed the plains and arrived in California in 1849; spent four
months in the mines on the American River; came to Humboldt county
in the brig " Reindeer" in June, 1850, and at once commenced the prac-
tice of his profession, which he continued for twenty years.
In November, 1853, he was appointed Acting Assistant Surgeon, U. S-
426 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
A., and assigned to duty at Fort Humboldt, Colonel R. C. Buchanan
being in command. He was afterward commissioned as Surgeon of the
First Battalion of Mountaineers, Lieutenant-Colonel S. G. Whipple
commanding, and served in that capacity three years. At the close of
the Indian campaign he resumed the practice of medicine in Eureka, and
so continued until 1870, when press of private business compelled him to
retire from practice.
Dr. Clark was the first postmaster on Humboldt Bay and received his
appointment in 185 1 ; he was also the first Notary Public in Humboldt
county; he was elected a member of the Board of Supervisors in 1855,
and served two terms. In 1857 he was appointed County Treasurer. In
1876 he was elected to the California Assembly, and was a very active
member of that body; he served two terms as a member ot the City
Council of Eureka, and in 1878 was elected Mayor of the city. At the
time of his death he was a member of the City Council; he was endeared
to many by acts of kindness and charity, which his chosen profession
gave him opportunity to bestow. He was identified with the Society
of Humboldt County Pioneers, and no one took greater interest in its
welfare and prosperity than Dr. Clark.
His death occurred in San Francisco March 29th, 1884.
CUNNINGHAM, J. P.— Came to California from Ilhnois in 1852.
Hctel-keeper. Residence, Ferndale.
CATHEY, JOHN — Came across the plains from Missouri to Cali-
fornia in 1852. A stockraiser. Died in 1871 at Mattole, Humboldt
county. A member of California Battalion Mountaineers.
CHAMBERLIN, J. D. H.— Is an attorney-at-law by profession. He
came to California in 1859 by way of Cape Horn. In 1850 he went to
the mines in El Dorado county on Webber Creek, and afterwards to
Murderers' Bar on the American River. He spent several years in the
mines with varied success. He is a graduate of Hamilton College in the
State of New York.
CLAPP, STEPHEN— A native of Maine ; came to California in 1852.
A blacksmith. Residence, Eureka.
CUTLER, THOMAS — A native of Connecticut ; came to California
in 1849 via. Cape Horn. Is a merchant in Eureka, and Collector of
the Port.
CARR, THOMAS— A native of Ireland ; came to the United States
BIOGRAPHY. 427
when a child with his parents. Came from Wisconsin to California
across the Isthmus in 1852 ; settled in Weaverville, Trinity county, then
moved to Humboldt county. Died at Eureka, February 6, 1884 ; occupa-
tion, carriage-maker.
CARR, ANN — Wife of Thomas Carr ; native of Ireland; came to
California across the Isthmus in 1852 from Wisconsin.
CARR, JOHN — A native of Ireland ; came to the United States when
a child with his parents ; came to Calitornia in 1850 across the plains
from Peoria, 111. Occupation, a blacksmith. Was one of the first settlers
of Trinity county. Came to Humboldt county in 1866. Served two
terms as a member of the City Council, one term as President of the
Board. In 1880 he went to Tombstone, Arizona, and was twice elected
Mayor of that city ; he is the author of the " Pioneer Days in California."'
Is now the Police Judge of the City of Eureka.
CARR, DELILAH — Wife of John Carr, daughter of George Turner,
of Morris county, New Jersey ; came to California across the Isthmus in
1852.
CAMPTON, MRS. M.— A native of Wisconsin ; crossed the plains to
California in 185 1. Residence, Rohnerville.
CAMPTON, WILLIAM— A native of Wisconsin ; crossed the plains
to California in 1851. Residence, Rohnerville.
CAMPTON, MORGAN— A native of Wisconsin ; crossed the plains
to California in 1850 ; residence, Rohnerville.
DeHAVEN, JACOB — Born in Jackson county, Ohio, in 1812 ; moved
to Missouri and from Missouri to California in 1849 across the plains,
and arrived at Sacramento, August 9th, of that year. Came to Humboldt
in May, 1853. Was elected Assesssor of the county in 1855, and re-
elected to that office in 1857, serving four years. Went to Idaho in 1862,
and died there in 1863.
DeHAVEN, ELIZABETH— Wife of Jacob DeHaven; came to Cali-
fornia from Missouri in 1849; died at Eureka in 1856.
DeHAVEN, SARAH— Daughter of Jacob DeHaven; now Mrs. John
W. Connick, of Eureka; born in Missouri ; crossed the plains when an
infant with her parents.
DeHAVEN, JOHN J. — A native of Missouri ; crossed the plains
428 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
from Missouri when a child in 1849 ; son of Jacob DeHaven. Came with
his parents to Humboldt in 1853. Learned the trade of printer in the
office of the Humboldt Times. Afterwards studied law and was admitted
to the bar ; elected District Attorney of Humboldt county. Served one
term as Assemblyman and one term as State Senator. Elected Superior
Judge of Humboldt county. Elected member of Congress in 1888 ; re-
signed his seat in Congress, and was elected to the Supreme Court of
the State in 1890, and still holds that position.
DYER, CAPTAIN JOHN M.— A native of Maine ; came in the ship
" Edward Everett " to California in 1849. Died in Humboldt county in
November, 1867.
DYER, DAVID F. — A native of Maine ; came to California in 1854.
Residence, Bayside.
DODGE, JOHN C. — A native of New Hampshire; crossed the
Isthmus in August, 1852. He is a resident of Eureka. Occupation, a
gardener.
DANIELS, H. S. — Came to California in 1853 from New Hampshire;
his wife, Ann Daniels, a native of England, came to California in 1853.
DEMING, BYRON — A native ofVermoHt ; arrived in San Francisco
in July, 1850.
DEMING, MRS. J.— Arrived in California in 1854. Residence,
Areata.
DOBBYN, WILLIAM B.— A native of Washington, D. C; came to
California around Cape Horn in 1849. Residence, Rohnerville. Served
two terms as Supervisor of Humboldt county.
DAVIS, HARRISON — Came from Ohio across the plains in 1852. A
farmer. Residence, Rohnerville.
DAVIS, JOHN B. — Crossed the plains in 1850. A farmer. Residence,
Rohnerville.
DEER, MARY A. — Came from Ohio across the plains in 1852.
DEER, PETER — Came from Indiana across the plains in 1849. Died,
1889.
DUNGAN, G. A. — Came from Iowa across the plains in 1850. A
farmer. Residence, Ferndale.
DUNGAN, THOMAS— Came from Iowa across the plains in 1850.
A miner. Residence, on Trinity River.
BIOGRAPHY. 429
DUNGAN, JOHN — Came from Iowa across the plains in 1850. A
fanner. Residence, Ferndale.
DUNGAN, JESSE A. — Came from Iowa across the Isthmus in 1851.
Filled the offices of Supervisor of Humboldt county and Justice of the
Peace and Police Judge of Eureka; died at Eureka in 1889.
DUFF, F. S. — A native of St. Johns, N. B.; came to California around
Cape Horn in 1849. Was a member of the firm of Ryan, Duff (S~» Co.
Occupation, Justice of the Peace. Residence, Eureka.
DOLBEER, JOHN— John Dolbeer, of the firm of Dolbeer (S^ Carson,
is an eminently successful business man. For twenty-eight years the
firm has been doing business in Eureka and San Francisco, John Dol-
beer attending to the business in San Francisco, and William Carson at
Eureka. John Dolbeer is a native of New Hampshire, and came to
California in 1850 and to Humboldt county in 1851, engaging here in the
lumber business. He left Eureka in 1851 and went to the mines on
Salmon River and remained there one year, and then returned to Eureka
in 1852, and went into the lumber business with Charles McLane, who
was drowned on the "Merrimac" on the bar in 1862. Mr. Dolbeer and
Mr. Carson entered into partnership in 1862, soon after the death of Mr.
McLane. Mr. Dolbeer amongst the business men of the Pacific Coast
stands second to none for integrity.
EWING, JOSEPH— A native of Scotland ; came from Montreal,
Canada, to California in 1850. Died at Hay Fork Valley in 1877.
EWING, HENRIETTA— Wife of Joseph Ewing; a native of Canada;
came to California in 1850.
ELLERY, FRANKLIN— A native of Massachusetts ; left Boston in
1849 in the schooner " Mary M. Woods," and arrived in California in
1850. A merchant in Eureka.
EATON, GEORGE— A native of Ohio ; crossed the plains to Cali-
fornia in 1850. Miner and sheep-raiser. Residence, near Bridgeville.
FERNALD, R. M.— Native of Baltimore, Md.; came to California in
1850, and to Humboldt county in 1852. Was a miner and proprietor of
Gold Bluff mines. Was Supervisor of Humboldt county for six years.
Was the builder of Eureka's first street railway.
FREESE, JONATHAN— Native of Maine ; came to California by
430 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
way of the Isthmus, in 1850. Died in Eureka in 1875. Served one term
as County Treasurer; one term as County Supervisor; and one term as
member of the City Council. Occupation, lumberman.
FINCH, WILLIAM R.— Native of New York ; came from Iowa
across the plains to California m 1850. Occupation, gunsmith.
FIELDS, WATERMAN— Native of Michigan ; came to California in
1853, by way of the Isthmus, and to Humboldt county in 1861. Residence,
Fields' Landing.
FLAHERTY, JOHN— Arrived in California 1852 from Boston, Mass.
in ship " Dauntless." Residence, Trinidad.
FAY, GEORGE M. — Native of Connecticut ; came to California in
1852 by way of the Isthmus. Occupation, shingle manufacturer. Resi-
dence, Fair Haven, Humboldt county.
FAY, NAH M — Native of Connecticut ; Arrived in California via
the Isthmus in 1852. Occupation, shingle manufacturer. Residence
Fair Haven, Humboldt county.
FELT, DR. T. D.^Native of Massachusetts ; crossed the plains in
1849 from Tennessee.
FELT, MRS. KATE— Wife of Dr. Felt ; native of Pennsylvania ;
crossed the plains to California in 1847. Residence, Eureka.
GALLAGHER, MICHAEL F.— Came from New York City to CaH-
fornia in 185 1. Died at Eureka September 4, 1888.
GARDNER, C. J.— Native of Massachusetts ; arrived in California m
1850 ; carpenter and builder.
GIBSON, JOHN W. — Native of Pennsylvania; arrived in California
in 185 1 ; is a general agent. Residence, Eureka.
GIBSON, DAVID— Native of Canada ; came to California in 1850.
Died at Hydesville in 1885.
GILL, JAMES — Native of County of Leeds, Ontario; came to Cali-
fornia in 1852 across the plains, arriving at Weaverville in 1852. Mined
at that place two years; came to Humboldt in 1854, engaged in logging
until 1857, then went back to Ontario and moved to Rock county, Wis-
consin; in i860 crossed the plains with ox-teams, coming direct to Hum-
boldt county with his family ; engaged in farming. Died at Eureka,
January 9, 1891.
BIOGRAPHY. 431
GRAHAM, GEORGE — Native of Virginia; came across the plains to
California in 1852 ; a miner and lumberman. Residence, Eureka.
GUTHRIE, CATHERINE— Native of Pennsylvania ; came to Cali-
fornia across the plains in 1849. Residence, Humboldt county.
GOOD, ABRAHAM— Native of Ohio ; crossed the plains to California
in 1853 ; liveryman. Residence, Hydesville.
GUSHAW, G. F. — Native of New York; came from Illinois across
the plains in 1849.
GUSHAW, MRS. G. F. — Nativeof Massachusetts; came to California
around Cape Horn in 1853.
GREENLOW, JESSE C— Native of New Bunswick; came to Cali-
fornia by way of the Isthmus of Nicaragua in 1852; came up the coast on
a sailing vessel; fifty-eight days from San Juan to San Francisco. Lost
twenty-two passengers out of one hundred and twenty with fever and
diarrhoea; mined until 1858; afterwards lumberman and farmer.
Residence, Eureka.
GOFF, MRS. JAMES— Daughter of N. Patrick; crossed the plains in
1852. Residence, Ferndale.
GRAHAM, THOMAS R.— Native of Mississippi; came to California
in 1853, when a boy, with his parents. Occupation, carpenter and builder.
Residence, Eureka.
HAYNES, HON. JOHN P.— Was born in Breckenridge county,
Kentucky, on the 3d day of December, 1826. In his childhood his
mother, then a widow, removed to Elizabethtown, Hardin county, Ken-
tucky, where he was raised and educated. In his seventeenth year he
entered a store as clerk and salesman, in which business he continued for
about three years. About this time the Mexican war broke out, and the
young men of the county at once proceeded to organize a company of
volunteers for the service. The subject of this notice took an active
part in organizing the company, and was elected Lieutenant. The quota
of the State was filled so quickly after the issuance of the Governor's call
for volunteers, that this company, with scores of others, was rejected.
Young Haynes, with ten or twelve others of his company, then joined
Company C, Captain Rowan Hardin, which was attached to the 4th
Kentucky Volunteers, under command of Colonel John S. Williams,
popularly known as " Cerro Gordo " Williams, from his gallantry in the
432 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
battle fought at that place. He remained in the service until the close of
the war. On his return home he commenced the study of law, and in due
time entered the Law Department of the University of Louisville, and
graduated in 1851.
A few months afterwards he started for California via the Isthmus, and
arrived in this State early in 1852. He remained in San Francisco a
short time, and then started for the northern part of the State, arriving in
Klamath county in the spring of that year. During the summer and fall
he was engaged in prospecting and mining on the Klamath.
At the election of November in that year he was elected District
Attorney of the county. In 1853 he removed to Crescent City, which
about that time became the County Seat. Here he commenced the prac-
tice of his profession, and was re-elected District Attorney. Upon the
removal of the County Seat to Orleans Bar he resigned the office. Upon
the organization of Del Norte county soon afterwards, was elected Dis-
trict Attorney of the new county. He continued in the practice of his
profession in Del Norte and Klamath until 1858, when he became a can-
didate for District Judge, and was defeated by the Hon. William R. Tur-
ner, by a majority of two votes. The following year he was elected
Senator, by a large majority, from the 12th Senatorial District, composed
of the counties of Del Norte, Klamath and Siskiyou. At the expiration
of his term he resumed the practice of his profession in Del Norte and
neighboring counties, meantime making some ventures in mining without
much success.
On the i8th day of February, 1868, he was appointed by Governor
Haight District Judge of the Eighth Judicial District, composed
of the counties of Klamath, Humboldt and Del Norte, to fill a
vacancy occasioned by the resignation of Judge Turner. He was elected
by the people to the same office at the judicial election in 1869, and re-
elected in 1875, si^d held the office until it was abolished by the new
Constitution, and at the first election under the new instrument was
elected Superior Judge of Humboldt county. In 1884 he was defeated
for the same office by Hon. J. J. DeHaven, at present Associate Justice
of the Supreme Court. In 1866, at the earnest solicitation of his Demo-
cratic friends, he accepted the nomination for the Senate, and was elected,
notwithstanding the district was largely Republican. In 1888 he was
again nominated and defeated by the Hon. Frank McGowan, present
Senator. In politics the Judge is a very firm, unswerving Democrat, and
has never faltered in his fidelity to the party, and is always ready and
BIOGRAPHY. 433
willing to give the reason of his political faith. He is at present a resident
of Eureka, in Humboldt connty.
HENDERSON, JAMES W.— Native of St. Lawrence county, New
York ; came to California February 14, 1850, crossing the Isthmus.
Mined two and one-half years on the American River. Made three trips
across the plains driving stock in 1853, 1854 and 1856. Lived in Sonoma
county nine years, engaged in ranching and staging. He came to Hum-
boldt during the coal oil excitement, and operated two years; he was ap-
pointed Register of the U. S. Land Office, which position he held three
years, and then engaged in the real estate business: was a promoter of
the first railroad in Humboldt county; was one of the incorporators of
the Eureka and Eel River Railroad. At present is engaged in the real
estate and banking business. He has been President of the Humboldt
County Bank for twelve years.
HULLING, SAMUEL, and wife, Phebe, came from Wisconsin to
California in 1852, and to Humboldt county in 1854. Residence, near
Springville.
HERRICK, R. F. — Native of Ohio; crossed the plains in 1850.
First Lieutenant of Company D, California Battalion of Mountaineers.
Elected for several terms County Surveyor of Humboldt county.
Residence, Eel River Valley.
HILL, NEIL — Native of Ireland; arrived at San Francisco by way of
the Isthmus in 1852, and Nancy Hill, his wife, a native of Ireland,
arrived in 1854.
HILDRETH, CHARLES— Native of England; arrived in California
in 1852 from Australia; is a cabinet-maker.
HUESTIS, REV. A. J. — Native of New Hampshire; crossed the plains
to California in 1849; came overland to Humboldt county in the spring
of i860 from Sonoma; was the first preacher of the gospel in Eureka;
was the first County Superintendent of Schools for Humboldt county;
was the County Judge of Humboldt County for two terms; he represented
Humboldt county in the Legislature in 1866-7; was also the first Inspec-
tor of Customs for the Harbor of Humboldt; was the first President of
the Society of Humboldt County Pioneers. Died, March, 1883, at
Eureka, aged l"] years.
HUESTIS, MINERVA ANNIS— Wife of A. J. Huestis; native of
434 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Monson, Massachusetts; came to California with her husband in 1849;
arrived in Eureka February, 22, 185 1. Residence, Eureka.
HUESTIS, SARAH MINERVA— Wife of N. Bullock, and daughter
of A. J. Huestis; crossed the plains with her parents in 1849. Residence,
Eureka.
HUESTIS, JOHN EMORY— Born in Iowa; crossed the plains in
1849 with his parents. Came to Eureka in 1851. Residence, Eureka.
HUESTIS, MAJOR W. F. — Native of Virginia; crossed the plains at
the age of thirteen years with his parents, and in the spring of 1850 arrived
in Humboldt county. In 1858 was a teacher in the Public Schools, and
for several years thereafter was a clerk in the State Senate. In 1865-6
was Deputy Clerk of the United States Circuit Court of California, and
U. S. Commissioner at San Francisco. In 1868 he received from Gover-
nor Haight the appointment of Assistant Adjutant-General of the Na-
tional Guard of California, with the rank of Major, which position he
held for two years. In 1878 he was elected delegate at large to the Con-
stitutional Convention, which framed the present Constitution of the
State. He has been President of the Society of Humboldt County Pio-
neers, and is the present Secretary of that Society; he is also a Notary
Public and agent of the Ricks estate in Eureka.
HOWARD, E. H.— Native of New York; arrived in Cahfornia in
September, 1849; he came overland by the Santa Fe and Gila route, and
was eight months on the way; he navigated the Gila River for two hun-
dred and fifty miles in his wagon-box, which had been constructed in the
form of a boat. On arriving at San Francisco he entered upon the prac-
tice of his profession, that of the law. In March, 1850, he formed a
co-partnership ivith Lieutenant Ottenger, of the U. S. Revenue Service,
under the auspices of the "Laura Virginia Association." The schooner
" Laura Virginia"' was dispatched on a voyage of discovery with Captain
Ottenger as master, and it was due to this enterprise that Humboldt Bay
was discovered by water. At a meeting held at the town of Humboldt
on the 17th day of April, 1850, of which meeting Mr. Howard was Secre-
tary, the present name of Humboldt Bay was proposed and adopted. At
the same meeting the subject of this meeting was elected Alcalde of the
town of Humboldt. In 1851 he was elected Public Administrator for
the county of Trinity, which then embraced the present territory of
Humboldt. In 1856 he was elected District Attorney for Humboldt
county. In 1858 was elected County Superintendent of Schools; was ap-
BIOGRAPHY. 435
pointed District Attorney in 1864; for several years was Chairman of the
Republican County Committee, and President of the Farmers' Union;
served as Police Judge of the City of Eureka from 1876 to 1880 and from
1882 to 1884; was President of the Humboldt County Pioneers. Resi-
dence, Eureka. By profession, a lawyer, and has been a frequent con-
tributor to the periodical press.
HOWARD, ALVIRA ANN— Wife of E. H. Howard; crossed the
plains with her husband in 1849. Residence, Eureka.
INGERSOLL, C. S.— Native of New York; came to California across
the plains in 1850. A physician.
JANES, H. F. — Was the founder of Janesville,Wis.; he was a native of
Virginia, and came across the plains from Missouri to California in 1849;
was a farmer and the first Justice of the Peace elected in the county of
Humboldt. Died in 1883, aged 80 years.
JANES, KEZIAH— Wife of H. F. Janes; native of New Jersey;
crossed the plains in 1849. Died in 1883, aged 75 years.
JANES, ELIZABETH— Daughtei of H. F. Janes, and now Mrs.
Ward, of Sonoma county.
JANES, JOHN W. — Son of H. F. Janes; native of Wisconsin; crossed
the plains with his parents; served in First Battalion Mountaineers.
JANES, JASPER N.— Son of H. F. Janes; native of Wisconsin;
crossed the plains with his parents; served on the non-commissioned
staff in Quartermaster's Department First Battalion Mountaineers.
JANES, JOSEPH T.— Son of H. F. Janes; now a resident of Oregon;
native of Missouri; crossed the plains with his parents.
JANES, THOMAS J.— Son of H. F.Janes; came to California in 1850
and to Humboldt Bay in 1851; he is now residing, with his family, near
Areata on Janes' Creek; returned to Missouri in 1853, and there remained
until 1870, when he came back to California; he enlisted in the Union
Army from Missouri during the rebellion.
JOHNSON, CHARLES— Native of Ohio; came to California in 1852
from Wisconsin; was a soldier of the Black Hawk War. Died in Hum-
boldt county in 1855.
436 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
JACKSON, E. B. — Arrived in California ini85i;he is a native of
Maine. Residence, Areata.
KINSEY, CHARLES— A native of Pennsylvania; came to California
across the plains in 1850. Residence, Eureka.
KIMBALL, JOHN H. — A native of Massachusetts; came across the
Isthmus to California in 1850; was murdered at his residence in Eureka
on the 28th day of May, 1866, by John Rogers, a burglar, who was exe-
cuted after conviction of his crime. Mr. Kimball held the offices of
Pubhc Administrator and Coroner, and Justice of the Peace of Eureka
Township.
KIMBALL, SOPHIA— Wife of John H. Kimball ; came across the
Isthmus to California in 1851.
KINMAN, SETH— A native of Pennsylvania; crossed the plains and
arrived in California in 1850, and came to Humboldt county in 1852;
was celebrated as a hunter, and for presenting buckhom chairs to the
Presidents of the United States.
KELLEN, JOSEPH— He came from Maine to California in 1850.
Occupation, a painter.
KELLEN, MARY — Wife of Joseph Kellen; came from Massachusetts
in 1850.
KNACKE, CAPT. GEORGE F.— Came from New York to California
in 1853. Died March 14, 1877, onboard his ship at Wellington Harbor.
KELLY, T. B. — A native of Ohio; came from Illinois to California in
1849 across the plains. Merchant and farmer of Rohnerville.
KNOWLES, C. M. — A native of Illinois; came to California across the
plains in 1850.
KNOWLES, ALVIRA— A native of Missouri; crossed the plains to
California in 1848.
KAUSSEN, CHARLES — Came from Missouri to California across
the plains in 1853. Residence, Alton, Humboldt county.
KELEHER, JOHN — A native of New Brunswick; came to California
in 1852, and to Humboldt in 1853; was Register of the U.S. Land Office
under appointment by President Lincoln from 1864 to 1867; was elected
County Treasurer in 1867, and held that office three terms. Was ap-
BIOGRAPHY. 437
pointed Clerk of the Board of Town Trustees, and made a member of
the bar in July, 1864; was elected Town Trustee in 1866, and again in
1870. Died in 1878.
LEACH, SYLVANUS— Crossed the plains from Ohio in 1853. Resi-
dence, Rohnerville. Occupation, farmer.
LINE, JOHN — Came from New York to California around Cape
Horn in the ship "Hindoo "in 1850. Came to Humboldt in 1852.
LAUGH LIN, J. N. — A native of Kentucky; came from Missouri to
California across the plains in 1850. Residence, Humboldt county.
LONG, C. W. — A pioneer business man of Eureka ; is a native of
New Brunswick, and emigrated to California, leaving his home in 1849,
and arriving in California in 1850. He came to Humboldt Bay in the
employ of Ryan dr' Duff, and was employed in building the first sawmill
on the bay built by that firm. He remained in the lumber business for
some time, and then went into the mercantile business with Daniel Pick-
ard under the firm name of Pickard 6~» Long. In 1863, during and after
the outbreak of the Indian war, C. W. Long was appointed Captain of
Company A, California Mountaineers, by Governor Stanford — a battal-
ion raised for the purpose of subduing hostile Indians, then at war with
the settlers of Northern California. He served three years in the field.
For his good conduct as a soldier and officer, he was promoted to the
rank of Major. After the war with the Indians was brought to a success-
ful close, Major Long went into the livery business with A. H. Gilbert, on
the corner of E and Second streets. Eureka. He was appointed one of
the commissioners to lay out and accept the overland wagon-road. He
remained in the livery business for several years. Residence, Eureka.
Occupation, real estate dealer.
LUTHER, CHRISTOPHER— A native of Illinois; crossed the plains
in 1851. Miner and butcher. Residence, Eureka.
LOWELL, CAPT. DAVID— A native of Maine; came to California in
1851, and to Humboldt in 1852; was wrecked on the bar in the steamer
"Sea Gull "in 1852.
LANGDON, CHAUNCY— A native of Vermont; came to California
by way of Cape Horn in 1849. Residence, Rohnerville.
LANGDON, MARY— A native of New York ; came to California
across the plains in 1852.
438 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA-
LEIHY, LUCY — Crossed the plains from Wisconsin to California in
185 1. Residence, Chicago.
LEACH, ALBERT — Came from Ohio to California in 1853. Farmer.
Residence, Rohnerville.
LEACH, SHERMAN H.— Crossed the plains from Ohio to California
in 1853. Residence, San Jose, Cal.
LEACH, FRED — Came to California from Ohio in 1853. A black-
smith. Residence, Fortuna.
LEWIS, N. T. — Came from Iowa to California in 1853. Farmer.
Residence, Fortuna.
LONG, ANDREW — Crossed the plains in 1849 from Tennessee.
Residence, Rohnerville.
LAPIER, BERTHA — Came from Missouri across the plains in 1848
with the Lassen party. Died in Santa Clara county in 1889.
MURRAY, JOHN SUTHERLAND, Sr.— A native of Scotland;
came to California from New Zealand in 1849. Died in Eureka in 1882.
A surveyor.
MURRAY, JANE F.— Wife of John S. Murray; came from New Zea-
land with her husband in 1849. Died in Eureka in 1871.
MURRAY, JOHN S., Jr.— Came with his parents from New Zealand
in 1849. Occupation, bank clerk.
MURRAY, MAGGIE S.— Came with her parents from New Zealand
in 1849. Occupation, teacher.
MARSHALL, J. C. — Came to California in 1849 by way of Cape
Horn; was shipwrecked March 23, 1850, at Crescent City on the schooner
" Paragon."
MARBLE, A. P. — A native of New York; arrived in California in
1852; was a member of the Fourth Regiment of U. S. Infantry. Came
to Bucksport in February, 1853, and helped to build the fort at that place.
Present residence, Cape Mendocino; lighthouse-keeper.
MUNSON, DANIEL— A native of Maine; came to California in 1852.
Lumberman. Residence, Eureka.
MINOR, JACOB A.— A native of Ohio; came to California in 1850.
Stockraiser. Died in April, 1884, in Humboldt county.
BIOGRAPHY. 439
MORRISON, JAMES M.— A native of Richland county, Ohio; came
to California from Iowa in 1853. Miner and builder. Residence, Eureka.
MURPHY, WILLIAM— A native of Ireland; came to California in
1852. A stockraiser. Residence, Areata.
MIDDLETON, THOMAS— A native of Illinois; crossed the plains to
California in 1845. Merchant. Residence, Rohnerville.
MORRISON, SILAS W. — A native of Virginia; crossed the plains
from Ohio to California in 1850. Elected Supervisor of Humboldt county.
Occupation, stockraising and dairying. Residence, Bear River.
MYER, M. B. — Came from Iowa to California across the plains in
1850. Residence, Garberville.
MONROE, ALONZO — A native of Connecticut; arrived in California
in February, 1850; came to Humboldt in 1852. Occupation, stockraiser
and merchant. Died at Eureka, March 20, 1882.
MONROE, MRS. ALONZO— Native of Michigan; cameto California
with her mother, Mrs. Caltha Albee, in 1852.
McGOWAN, FRANK — Was born in Washington Territory in 1859
and brought to California in i860; was educated in the Public Schools
of San Francisco and of Humboldt county. He was admitted to the Bar
of the Supreme Court of California in 1883; was elected Assemblyman in
1886 and State Senator in 1888.
McCAFFERTY, FRANK— A native of Missouri; came to California
in 1849 at the age of seventeen years, and drove an ox-team across the
plains for H. F. Janes ; was one of the Overland-road Commissioners in
1847, and a member of Captain Messicks' company of Indian fighters.
Arrived in Humboldt county in 1850.
McNALLY, LAWRENCE— A native of Ireland; came to California
from Missouri in 1852, crossing the Isthmus. A resident of Eureka.
McCONAGHY, JOHN— Came to California from Philadelphia, Pa.,
by the way of the Isthmus, arriving in San Francisco May 4, 1850.
Occupation, a farmer. Residence, Areata.
McCLELLAN, R. S. — A native of Massachusetts, and came across
the plains in 1852 to California. He died in 1887.
McKINNA, MARY — A native of Wisconsin; crossed the plains to
California in 1851. Residence, Bay View, Washington.
440 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
McCHARLES, H. R. — A native of Indiana; came to California by
way of Cape Horn in 1850. Residence, Nevada, Cal.
NEWTON, DAVID H. — A native of Ireland; came to California in
1849 across the plains. Died in this State in 1869. A printer.
NORCROSS, L. M. — A native of Maine; came to California in 1850
by way of the Isthmus. Residence, Eureka.
NEWMAN, J. H. — Came from Missouri across the plains to California
in 1850.
NEWMAN, LAURA— Came from Iowa to California in 1849. Resi-
dence, Hydesville.
ORMAN, HENRY— A native of Ohio; came to California May 5,
1852. Residence, Areata. Occupation, carpenter.
OLM STEAD, C. H. — A native of Maine; came to California in 185 1.
A blacksmith. Residence, Eureka.
OLMSTEAD, WILLIAM T.— A native of New York; came from
Michigan to California across the plains in 1850. Stockraiser. Made
one trip across the plains in 1853 with a band of cattle. Was one of the
first settlers of Humboldt county. Was shot twice by the Indians on the
1 2th of July, 1852, while driving cattle to Trinity county, and crippled
for life, and carries Indian lead up to the present time. Was compelled
to use crutches for three years. Hiram Lyons, one of his party, was
killed on that occasion. Two others of the party made their escape
without injury, and left Mr. Olmstead to fight his own battle. He got
under cover and killed one of the Indians with a Colt's revolver, which
intimidated the Indians so much that they left him, thus saving his life.
He lay there wounded until the next day about 4 o'clock, when a party
from Yager Creek came to his assistance, and shortly thereafter a detach-
ment of soldiers came and carried him into the settlements. They
reached Yager Creek on the third day after the shooting. He lay ten
days, and was then carried to his home at Hydesville, on a litter, taking
two days to make the trip. Dr. Felt met him at Yager Creek and dressed
his wounds. Mr. Olmstead is now a resident of Eureka.
OLMSTEAD, LUCINDA— («^^ Garrison)— Wife of William T. Olm-
stead; came to California across the plains in 1853.
BIOGRAPHY. 441
OUSLEY, CAPTAIN GEORGE W. — Came to California from
Illinois across the plains in 1849 ; served two years as Captain of
Company B, California Mountaineers, Residence, San Jose. Came to
Humboldt in 1850,
PORTER, ROBERT— A native of Vir^jinia ; came to California in
1852, and engaged for a time in mining ; came to Humboldt county in
1859, and worked in the mills, and afterwards went into the office of
John Vance ; next engaged m stock-raising and merchandising.
Residence, Hydesville.
PARDEE, A. L, — A native of New York; arrived in California in
1852.
PARDEE, A. F. — A native of New York ; arrived in California in
1852.
•PALMER, JAMES— A native of Missouri; crossed the plains to
California in 1853. A farmer. Residence, Hydesville.
PALMER, SAMUEL — A native of Missouri; crossed the plains to
California in 1853. A farmer. Residence, Hydesville.
PALMER, JOHN — Born on the plains in 1S53. Residence,
Hydesville.
PATRICK, N. — Came from Illinois across the plains in 1852. Resi-
dence, Ferndale.
PATRICK, JANE— Came from lUinois in 1852. Died, 1883.
PATRICK, GILES— Came from Illinois in 1852. A farmer. Resi-
dence, Ferndale.
PATRICK, Z. B.— Crossed the plains in i852from Illinois. A butcher.
Residence, Ferndale.
PATRICK, MARSHALL— Crossed the plains in 1852 from Illinois.
A farmer. Residence, Ferndale.
PRATT, WILLIAM H.— Was born at East Haddam, Conn., and
was early left an orphan. He sailed from New York December 20, 1848,
and arrived at San Francisco by way of the Isthmus Feb. 28, 1849. He
was successfully engaged for a few months in mining. In the fall of 1849
he went to New York City and purchased a large stock of general mer-
chandise, with which he returned to San Francisco and there opened a
442 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Store, but within two weeks lost thirty thousand dollars by fire. He then
opened a trading-post at Big Bar, and was signally successful; was at
various times engaged in merchandising, mining operations, hotel-keep-
ing, brick-making and banking; he was the Republican nominee for the
State Senate in 1856 and i860. In 1861 he was appointed Receiver of
Public Moneys at the Humboldt Land Office. During the Indian troubles
he was First Lieutenant and Quartermaster of the First Battalion of
Mountaineers, California Volunteers. In 1867 he was appointed Indian
Agent at Hoopa Valley. In 1869 he engaged in the mercantile business
in Eureka. From 1883 to 1888 he was Collector of Customs for the Dis-
trict of Humboldt; was a delegate in the National Convention at Chicago
which nominated General Harrison for the Presidency, who appointed
him U. S. Surveyor-General for California.
RICKS, C. S. — Was one of the first pioneers of Eureka; came to Cali-
fornia in 1849, and arrived at Eureka in 1850; was one of the townsite
company, and helped to lay out the city; was largely interested in real
estate, and was the largest real estate owner in the city at the time of his
death, which occurred June 21, 1888; he represented Humboldt county
in the State Legislature, and was one of the most efficient members of
that body; he always took a great deal of interest in the prosperity of
Eureka and her institutions, and helped schools and churches with a
liberal hand, and everything else that was for the benefit or the pleasure
of the city; he built more houses than any other man in the city; he inau-
gurated the City Water Works by sinking artesian wells and raising the
water by steam to tanks, and thence conducting the water in pipes
throughout the city; he died leaving a large estate to his wife and three
sons. C. S. Ricks was a man of liberal mind, friendly in his intercourse
with his fellow-men, and of a generous and kind disposition; was well
liked by his neighbors and all who knew him. His presence was always
welcome wherever he went.
RYAN, JAMES T., DUFF, JAMES R., TORRY, A. W., DUFF,
FRANK S., composed the firm of Ryan, Duff &-» Co. — These gentle-
men built the first merchantable sawmill, with a capacity of 100,000
feet each twenty-four hours. The company bought the steamer " Santa
Clara," brought the vessel to Humboldt, planted her in the bank, and
built the mill alongside her, and used her power to run the mill. She
left San Francisco the 22d day of Februrary, 1852, andarrived at Eureka
BIOGRAPHY. 443
on the second day, with about forty men on board, brought to help build
the mill. James T. Ryan was Captain, F. S. Duff was First Officer and
John Vance was Quartermaster, The steamer struck on the bar while
crossing, and came near being a total wreck. She lost her deck-load, and
was in the breakers one and a half hours. The mill ran with variable
success until 1859, when it burned down.
James T. Ryan, a native of Ireland; came from Boston to California in
1849 by way of the Isthmus; he shipped at Panama for San Francisco on
an old vessel called " The Three Friends." On her way up she put into
a Mexican port. The vessel was so slow that Ryan got disgusted and
left her and started on foot for San Francisco, and arrived at that city
without either coat or boots on, and nearly starved. He " struck " Frank
Duff, and got his first square meal since leaving the vessel; he went to
bed and slept forty-eight hours before waking.
Eureka was originally and actually surveyed by Mr. Ryan, with an in-
strument improvised of two vials and a bit of wood. In 1861 Senator
McDougal thus introduced him to Abraham Lincoln:
" Mr. President, this is General Ryan, a loyal neighbor of mine, who
can build a cathedral and preach in it, a ship and sail in it, and an
engine and run it."
James T. Ryan was one of the most energetic of Humboldt's first
settlers. He was elected to the State Senate in 1859, and died in Vallejo
in 1875.
James R. Duff was a native of St. Johns, New Brunswick; he sailed
from Boston the 20th day of January, 1849, in the ship " Pharsalia," and
arrived in San Francisco the 23d of July, 1849; he worked in San Fran-
cisco at his trade of carpenter at sixteen dollars per day; after working a
week the carpenters called a meeting and struck for twenty dollars a day.
All those that were mechanics got it, and the " scabs " were left outside.
In the spring of 1850 he went on a voyage of discovery up the coast, in
the schooner " Francis Helen," with Captain Ottenger, and arrived in
Humboldt the ist of June, 1850; he found it to be a fine country for lum-
bering purposes, and concluded to locate at Eureka; he was one of the
partners of Ryan, Duff S-' Co.; he is now a resident of San Francisco.
A. W. Torry died in early days in San Francisco; he came in 1849
from Boston.
ROBERTS, WILLIAM AND SUSAN— WiUiam Roberts was a
native of Vermont, and Susan, his wife, a native of Missouri; came across
444 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
the plains in 1849. I" conversation with the old lady, Mrs. Roberts, a
short time since about the early pioneers of California, she gave me a
short account of their trip across the plains in the year 1849, which is
well worth recording in the pages of the " Pioneer Days in California." I
will relate it as she told it to me, as nearly as I can in her own words.
She is now in her eighty-fifth year; her memory is remarkable for a
person of her age. She said:
" We started with quite a large train of emigrants to California on the
22d day of February, 1849. My husband was chosen Captain of the
train; all went well with us the greater part of the way across the plains.
We came the northern or Fort Hall route, and took what was called
the Lassen cut-ofif; all went smoothly for a while. The company elected
another Captain, who knew very little of the plains or the Indians. One
night while camped on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, from our camp we
could see fires and smoke starting up from different points of the mount-
ains surrounding us. My husband advised the new Captain to guard the
stock until the catlle were filled, and then to corral them for the night.
* For,' said he, 'those are signal fires, and we are in danger from the
Indians.' The Captain laughed at his fears, and said, ' We are past all
danger.' We were then on the California side of the Sierras. My hus-
band got up his cattle and corralled them, saying he would take no
chances. Next morning the most of the cattle were gone, having been
stolen by the Indians; not a whole team left, except ours, in the train.
Here we were in the mountains and late in the season, short of teams to
take us through. There was but one thing to be done, and that was to
lighten up the wagons, and proceed as best we might. All surplus goods
and provisions were thrown from the wagons, in order to lighten them
for the reduced teams. We then got on very slowly. As we all feared,
the storms commenced, and caught us in the mountains in November,
very poorly prepared for a hard winter. We kept traveling as well as we
could, though it kept snowing all the time. On the 17th day of November
the United States relief train met us. The train was under the command
of Captain Peeples of the United States army, and had been sent out by
the Government to help the late emigrants through. It was snowing
hard at the time we met the train of about forty mules. The Captain
told us the only thing for us to do was for us to leave our teams and
everything we had, and he would take us through with his mules as he
was short of provisions, and they must make the settlement as soon as
possible. My husband refused to leave his team, and I refused to leave
BIOGRAPHY. 445
my husband, preferring to take my chances with him. R. R. Roberts,
our son, and his wife left with the Government train, as his wife was very
near her confinement, and they hoped to reach the settlements before
her sickness would take place. They started, leaving us in the mount-
ains, the snow still falling. They traveled for two days with the relief
■train, and the third night after being with the train the party camped for
the night. The ne.xt morning the snow was between two and three feet
deep, and all the mules but three had perished of cold and hunger. Cap-
tain Peeples then found himself in desperate straits. Here he was with
a company whom he was sent to assist, with a number of women and
children, snowed in in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, without provisions or
transportation for them. All he had left of his forty mules was but three,
and they hardly able to travel. The nearest settlement was forty miles
distant. They made sacks, into which they put the children, and slung
them on each side of the mules. They had one old ox, which they killed
before starting, but left part of the ox with the party staying behind.
There were ten women in the party; they wivh the rest had to go on
foot through the snow, over two feet deep, and with very little to eat.
They reached the settlement in two days, without loss of life, which set-
tlement was then known as Lassen's Ranch, and was about one hundred
and twenty-five miles above Sacramento City. In the meantime William
Roberts and wife had overtaken the Government train in camp where the
mules had perished. Young Mrs. Roberts being unable to travel, the
Roberts family had to remain there with two sick men who had the
scurvy. One of the men died the second night in camp, and the other
got well. The names of the party that remained in camp were William
Roberts, Susan Roberts, his wife, R. R. Roberts and his wife, who was
about to be confined, J. J. Roberts and Mr. Cliff, the teamster, with the
two sick men. In a day or two Mrs. Roberts was confined in the wagon,
and a boy was born — the first white child born in a snowstorm in the Sierra
Nevada Mountains, of whom we have any account. The child grew to
manhood in Humboldt county, and was known as John V. C. Roberts.
In the meantime, after the baby was born, they moved down the mount-
ains about four miles and built a cabin, intending to have shelter until
the storm was over.
The first night they moved into their cabin they turned out their
famished oxen, sixteen in number, to browse. The next morning it was
discovered that they hi^d all been stolen by the Indians, and nothing was
left but one Indian pony. After completing the cabin, Mr. William
446 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
Roberts started for the settlement in search of provisions for the family.
When he left the cabin they had one very poor deer which they had
killed, and very poor venison it made. Mr. Roberts was gone four days
when he returned, bringing a few provisions. During these four days
the infant subsisted on kennaknick berries they found under thesnow, and
picked and then pressed; the juice was given to the infant, which thrived
well on such nourishment. The pulp of these berries was made into
bread and eaten by the adults. After Mr. Roberts returned to camp, R.
R. Roberts, John J. Roberts and Mr. Cliff went to Sacramento Valley
for provisions. The party remained in camp until the 20th of February,
when they left for the Sacramento Valley, and arrived at Lassen's Ranch
t)n foot, on the 22d day of February, 1850. The family came to Humboldt
and arrived at Eureka on the 22d day of February, 1851. William
Roberts died at Bucksport, Humboldt county, January 7, 1872, aged 72
years. Susan Roberts, the mother of pioneers, my informant, is a hale
and hearty old lady, now in her eighty-fifth year, and loves to talk of her
pioneer days.
RANDALL, ALPHEUS W.— A native of Rhode Island; came to
California in 1849 in the ship " Learnor." He was a soldier in the Mexi-
can war; Sergeant of Company A, Ninth Infantry. First Lieutenant of
Company F, Battalion of California Mountaineers. Residence, Eureka.
Profession, banker.
RANDALL, T. M. — Came from Illinois across the plains to California
in 1853. Residence, Areata.
RICHARDSON, CHARLES— A native of Maine; came to Cali-
fornia in 1853. Lumberman and millwright.
RAY, J. G. — A native of Missouri; crossed the plains to California with
the Donner party in 1846. Died in Humboldt county in 1890.
ROHNER, HENRY— Came from Kentucky to California in 1849.
Capitalist. Residence, Fortuna.
RUSS, MRS. JOSEPH— Daughter of N. Patrick; crossed the plains
from Illinois in 1852.
ROBINSON, LAVINA E.— A native of Michigan; daughter of J. P.
Albee; came to California in 1852. Residence, Bridgeville.
RUSS, JOSEPH — A native of Maine; came to California in 1850 via
Cape Horn; came to Humboldt in 1852; was elected to the Legislature in
1873 and again in 1884; elected delegate to the Republican National
BIOGRAPHY. 447
Convention at Chicago in 1884. Mr. Russ was one of Humboldt's most
enterprising citizens, and was the largest land owner in the county at the
time of his death, which occurred in October, 1886.
SEVIER, ABNER DILL — A native of Indiana; crossed the plains in
1850, and came to Humboldt county in 1851; was a member of the Court
of Sessions, and for four years Sheriff of Humboldt county. Justice of
the Peace and Police Judge of Eureka. Was an officer in Company A,
Battalion of California Mountaineers. Died at Rohnerville in li
SEVIER, SARAH A.— Wife of A. D. Sevier; was born in Tennessee,
and came to California in 1850 and to Humboldt county in 1850, as Miss
Stringfield.
STRINGFIELD, SEVIER — Was born in Tennessee in 1800; came
across the plains in 1850, and to Humboldt county in 1851. A farmer
and Methodist minister. Died in Santa Barbara in 1890.
STRINGFIELD, M. W. — A native of Illinois; came across the plains
to California in 1850. Was a member of California Mountaineers, Com-
pany A. Also served in the Modock war in 1872. Occupation, librarian.
STRINGFIELD, ELIZABETH— Wife of Sevier Stringfield; came to
California in 1850.
SHUFFLETON, HUGH HALL— Crossed the plains from Iowa in
1849. Residence, Shasta county.
SHUFFLETON, CHARLES W.— Crossed the plains from Iowa in
1853. Residence, Eureka.
SNEDDEN, JOSEPH— A native of Scotland; came from the State of
New York to California in 1852. Belonged to Fourth U. S. Infantry,
Company B, Corporal.
SPEARS, A. C. — A native of New York; came from Michigan to Cali-
fornia across the Isthmus in 185 1. Occupation, lumbering and farming.
SCOTT, HENRY P. — A native of Hamburg, Germany; arrived in
California June, 1849, from Valparaiso, Chile. A seaman by occupation.
SHELDON, MARY L.— Came from Vermont; arrived in California by
way of Cape Horn in 1852. Residence, San Francisco.
SUTTON, MRS. L. — Came from Iowa to California across the plains
in 1853. Residence, Oroville, Butte county, California.
448 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
SHIVELY, WILLIAM B.— Came from Ohio to California across the
plains in 1852. Residence, Rio Dell.
SHIVELY, CAROLINE — Came from Illinois across the plains in
1852.
SWEASEY, MRS. SARAH— Came across the plains from Ohio in
1852.
STANISLAUSKI, GUSTAVE, and Mary Madgeline Stanislauski,
his wife, came to California in 1S51, and to Humboldt in 1852. Resi-
dence, Humboldt county.
SWEASEY, RICHARD — A native of Indiana; came to California in
• 1850 and to Humboldt in 1855. Occupation, merchant, and ship-owner.
Residence, Eureka.
TILLEY, G. H. — Is a native of Rhode Island; came to California
September ist, 1849, and to Humboldt in 1850; has been Supervisor
of Humboldt county two terms.
TYDD, PETER — A native of Ireland; came from New York to Cali-
fornia in 1852; was a member of Company F, Fourth U. S. Infantry,
Captain U. S. Grant.
THOMAS, W. — A native of Massachusetts; came to California in
1849 through Mexico; was a soldier of the Mexican war.
TOMLINSON, CAPTAIN EDWIN— Born in England in 1809;
came to the United States in 181 1; came to California by way of the
Cape of Good Hope and Australia in 1852 in the ship "Envelop;" came
to Humboldt in 1852; was shipwrecked on Humboldt Bar December
10, 1852. Retired shipmaster. Residence, Eureka.
TOMLINSON, REBECCA— Wife of Captain Tomlinson ; a native of
Nova Scotia; came to California with her husband in 1852.
TERRY, MARY— Daughter of J. P. Albee; a native of Michigan;
came to California in 1852.
VANSANT, JOSHUA— A native of Maryland; came to California
in 1850; has been Marshal of the city of Eureka for ten years.
VALLIER, A. C. — A native of New York; came to California in 1852.
A miner. Residence, Eureka.
BIOGRAPHY. 449
VANN, MATTHEW — A soldier of the Mexican war; arrived in Cali-
fornia in 1852. A native of Kentucky.
VANN, ELIZABETH— Wife of Matthew Vann. A native of Ten-
nessee. Residence, Napa.
VAN DYKE, WALTER— Native of New York; studied law in Cleve-
land, Ohio, and admitted to practice in the courts of that State; arrived
in California, via Tehuantepec, in 1850, and was among the first explorers
of the lower Klamath River; belonged to the Whig party, but was elected
District Attorney of Klamath county upon its organization in 1851; re-
moved to Areata in 1852 and engaged in practice of his profession; mar-
ried Miss Rowena Cooper in 1854; partowner and editor of the Humboldt
Times several years, and served the county as District Attorney; became
a resident of Eureka in 1858 ; elected to State Senate in 1861, and was
prominent in the formation of the Union party; he now resides in Los
Angeles, and is one of the Superior Judges of that county.
VAN SICKLE, THOMAS— A native of New York; came to Cali-
fornia in 1850. Residence, Rohnerville. Merchant.
WOOD, GABRIEL — Is a native of Prussia; came from Pennsylvania
across the Isthmus to California in 185 1. Residence, Eureka. Occupa-
tion, a teamster.
WHITE, SAMUEL S.— A native of Massachusetts; came to Cali-
fornia in 1852, and to Humboldt county in 1871. Occupation, a mason.
WILT, J. A. — A native of New Brunswick; came to California via
Cape Horn in 1850. He is a general agent.
WHEELER, E. D. — A native of Connecticut; came to California
across the plains from Wisconsin in 1849. Profession, lawyer. Was the
first County Clerk of Yuba county, in 1850; was Mayor of Marysville;
was elected to the State Senate in i860; moved to San Francisco in 1862;
in 1872 he was appointed District Judge of the Ninteenth Judicial Dis-
trict by Governor Booth; in 1874 was elected Judge by the people of the
District just mentioned; he served in this capacity until 1880, when the
District Courts were abolished by the new Constitution. From that
time to the present he has practiced his profession in San Francisco.
WEBER, MARTIN— Came to California from Illinois in 1852. Mer-
chant. Residence, Rohnerville.
450 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
WEBER, NICHOLAS— Came to California from Illinois in 1852.
Merchant. Residence, Rohnerville.
WENNER, B. — Crossed the Isthmus to California in 1849. Resi-
dence, Fortuna. A farmer.
WAITE, B. L. — Came to California from Wisconsin across the plains
in 1850. Residence, Grizzly Bluff. Farmer.
WOOLDRIDGE, MRS. JOSEPHINE— Daughter of N. Patrick;
crossed the plains from Illinois in 1852.
WALL, WILLIAM H.— A native of New York; came to California in
1846; arrived at Humboldt Bay in June, 1850. Was the first white man
married in Humboldt county; married the daughter of James Light.
WILLIAMS, GEORGE— A native of Ohio; crossed the plains to
California in 1850; served two terms as Supervisor of Trinity county; was
Provost Marshal for Trinity county in 1863; served one term as Super-
visor of Humboldt county; was elected to the Legislature from Humboldt
county in 1887. Residence, Ferndale. Occupation, stockman and
general business.
WINZLER, JOHN — Crossed the plains from Ohio to California in
1850. Residence, Oregon. Occupation, blacksmith.
WATSON, JOHN A. — A native of New Hampshire; came from
Maine to California in 1851; was elected County Clerk of Trinity county
in 1856; ran on the Republican ticket in that county for Sheriff against
John P. Jones, now U. S. Senator from Nevada. The Republican party
being largely in the minority, he failed to be elected. In 1863 he enlisted
in the California Battalion Mountaineers, and was commissioned First
Lieutenant of Company C, under Captain Miller; served until the close
of the war, and was mustered out in 1865. He then took up his residence
at Eureka. In 1868 he was elected County Clerk of Humboldt county,
and held that office for six years; in 1874 he was appointed Deputy Col-
lector of Customs, and President Arthur appointed him Collector of the
Port when Eureka was made a Customs district. He held the position
of agent for Wells, Fargo Qr' Co. from April, 1879, until his death; he
served six years as a member of the City Council, and was one of the
most efBcient members of that body. Died at Eureka November 8, 1883.
WALSH, THOMAS— A native of Ireland; came to California in 1851,
and to Humboldt in 1853; was elected the first Mayor of Eureka in 1874,
and served two terms; was again elected Mayor of Eureka m 1880, and
BIOGRAPHY. 451
served three terms, or until 1886. Occupation, merchant. Died at
Chicago in 1886.
WHIPPLE, S. G. — Born in Vermont ; arrived in Cahfornia across
the plains from Ohio July, 1849, and in what is now Humboldt county
in February, 1851; established the Northern Califoniian at Areata in
1858, and conducted same two years, when it was united with the
Humboldt Times, to the proprietorship of which he succeeded, disposing
of the establishment in 1862. Served three terms in the State Legislature.
Entered U. S. volunteer military service spring of 1863, and the regular
army in 1866, retiring in 1884. Resides at Eureka; manager of the
Humboldt Times.
■ WYMAN, J. E. — A native of Massachusetts; arrived in California in
1850, and in Humboldt in 185 1; served as County Judge of Humboldt
county for fourteen years; was the owner and publisher of the Htimboldt
Times; he started the first daily paper in Humboldt county. Died in
1880, at Eureka.
WOOD, L. K. — A native of Kentucky; came to California in 1849; he
was one of the first discoverers of Humboldt Bay; he with seven others,
known as Dr. Gregg's party, left Trinity River on the 5th day of Novem-
ber, 1849, to explore the then unknown country between Upper Trinity
River and the Pacific Ocean. After incredible hardships and almost
starvation they reached the coast at the mouth of what is known as Little
River. For over six weeks this little band of pioneers tramped over snowy
mountains, and swam swollen streams, on their expedition of discovery.
On December 20, 1849, David A. Buck, one of the party, discovered
the bay, and named it Trinity Bay. Four months later the bay was dis-
covered by the Laura Virginia Company, and given the name of Humboldt
Bay, which name it still retains.
The Gregg party then undertook to return to the settlements by the
way of Eel River, in the midst of one of the hardest winters known to
California. Their provisions gave out in the midst of a heavy snowstorm,
and for days they were without food. They were now reduced almost to
starvation. Three of the band went hunting, and found a band of eight
grizzly bears, and necessity compelled them to attack the bears. After
they wounded some of the bears, the brutes turned on them, and getting
hold of L. K. Wood, they mangled his body in a fearful manner. They
broke one of his legs and tore one of his arms, and thus rendered him a
cripple for life. Finally the bears left him, and bis comrades got him
into camp.
452 PIONEER DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.
The question now arose, what was to be done with the wounded man?
If they stayed in camp they would all perish of starvation, and his wounds
were so swollen and sore that he could not be removed. On consultation
with Mr. Wood himself, he requested his companions to shoot him, and
not leave him to die of the pangs of hunger in that wilderness. They dis-
cussed the matter, and finally came to the conclusion that they would
make a litter and pack him as far as possible. This they did. After un-
told miseries, the party arrived at the ranch of Mrs. Mark West on the
17th day of February, 1850, and remained there until sufficiently recov-
ered to proceed to San Francisco. Mr. Wood received the utmost kind-
ness from every member of the family.
Mr. Wood returned to Humboldt, and, in 1852, ran as an independent
candidate for the office of Clerk of Trinity county, of which county the
present county of Humboldt then formed a part. The Democratic can-
didate was successful. Shortly afterwards Humboldt county was created
by act of the Legislature, and L. K. Wood became County Clerk of the
new county. He afterwards became a farmer on Areata bottom, and
married the daughter of James Hanna, Esq., and raised a large family.
Most of the children still reside in Humboldt county. He died at Areata
on the 1 2th day of July, 1874.
Through the courtesy of his sons, the author was permitted to take this
sketch from a narrative written by L. K. Wood several years ago, and
published at the time in the Humboldt Times.
1S53