1 Answer

Yes the capacitor do assist the compressor, however; your problem may not be with the capacitor if you do not see visible swelling, but check to see if you recieving the actual 24 volts required to start unit. Also the only other reason may cause this sort of problem could be the coil in the contactor is going bad ample voltage problem.

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Related Questions:

The fan on the condenser or air handler? Check the capacitor on the condenser. If you don't have a meter that does uf you can take the amp draws of the comp multiplied by 2650, divided by the voltage between com and herm on the cap. If cap is good be sure compressor is not off on thermal overload, cool with water hose, careful to not soak electrical. If not hot and cap good , try hard start kit. If still no compressor ,ohm compressor, com to start plus com to run should equal start to run on ohms. Hope this helps.

I would say that if it starts cooling when it's turned on, then it has freon in it. Sounds more like it's kicking off on high head pressure, meaning the condenser is not getting cooled, head pressure builds up then a safety limit switch shuts it down to save the compressor from burning out.. Is there a condenser fan maybe not operating? or are the condenser coils clogged up with dirt?

You amy ahave a bvad capacitor on the outside unit. It starts the fan and the compressor. You can change this yourself. Open the outside panel and you will see a silver canister with terminals out the top. Replace this and I think your problem will go away. On the cap. it will say something like 30uf 5uf 370 ot 440 Just get these numbers and get a new one. Russ

Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.

These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.

Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.

Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.

You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.

Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.

I am having the same problem, sometimes it runs in the wrong direction, blowing the air down. Sometimes something gets tripped and I need to turn the thermostat to off and wait a bit then restart it. If I am lucky it will run int the correct direction and also will warm the house. Sometimes it send nothing but cold air to the house's forced air.

It sounds like your condenser fan motor may be locked up or the capacitor that helps give the condenser fan motor a kick to get it started may be defective. Try turning your system on and using a long screwdriver try to push the fan blade on the condenser fan motor to see if it will run normally if you give it the starting boost it needs.If it does run at full speed and doesn't over heat or start and then slow down then you probably only need to replace a simple 10-12$ capacitor. If it barely turns, makes an odd humming sound or overheats etc. then you will have to replace the condenser fan motor. This is assuming that the outdoor condenser has the 220v supplied and the 24v supplied to the compressor relay, that the compressor relay is engaged and suppling 220v to the condenser fan motor.

I think you mean compressor rather than condenser. Take the panel that covers the controls off the unit. If the clicking noise is the contacter, and it is engaging when the power is turned on, then follow the wires to the compressor, remove the little plastic cover and look for wires that are burnt or otherwise not making contact with the compressor terminals. If the wires are good and you have a volt meter, set it to ohms, TURN OFF THE POWER, remove the wires on the compressor. (remember where C,S,R, goes) touch the meter to any 2 terminals on the compressor. They all 3 should have continuity to each other. No continuity=new compressor. If the contacter is not making the clicking noise when the power is turned on, then you have another problem that I'll need more info. to help.