Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.

That's the one we have in the gym, too, but I would have thought that all the holds on it are too big for you? They seem too big for me-- I am doing the outermost/lowest crimps, and the lower/center slomper. On those crimps I am subtracting 20 lb for now, and the center slomper gets -10lb. But all the rest of the holds seem like jugs? Which holds are you using?

camhead wrote:

Pretty weke, after not climbing at all for a couple weeks. Could not finish a set on the shallow two-finger pocket. Could not do any holds with weight added, and I'm not sure yet how I'm going to deal with adding 35 lbs, given that I'll be dropping off the board onto one foot.

Still, I'll be psyched to ease back into it for the next couple months. Tony offered to waive my membership fee while I was injured, but I think I'll keep going in.

The biggest challenge by far was trying to crutch through all the stacks of boulder pads.

You are going to have kickass balance after all this is done... but only on one foot.

Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.

Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.

Well, not so on the Moonboard...

But yeah, I am already hating the one slomper in the middle.

The more I think about it, the more it seems that buying a hangboard is a waste of money for almost anyone, regardless of the level. Seems like you are better off just buying a couple of holds that you want to use, and bolting/screwing them onto a woody.

Of course it is a moot point bc I have not bought any of the boards that i have, and at the gym I can pick and choose between several hangboards, or bolting the holds onto the systems wall.

When I was at the gunks, I got this Pirates! game for my iYup. You cruise around, pirating, wooing governors daughters, and seeking treasure. You get all kinds of items, like a spyglass, better sails, pistols, etc.

One of the items i got was a Dutch Rutter!

I couldn't believe it!! I got it and laughed for several minutes and had to tell Cornelius about the Dutch Rudder. And then of course the Slave Ship.

Anyway, the Dutch Rutter showed me on my map the location of secret dutch settlements so I could raid them. No touching pehishes involved

Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.

Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.

Well, not so on the Moonboard...

But yeah, I am already hating the one slomper in the middle.

The more I think about it, the more it seems that buying a hangboard is a waste of money for almost anyone, regardless of the level. Seems like you are better off just buying a couple of holds that you want to use, and bolting/screwing them onto a woody.

Of course it is a moot point bc I have not bought any of the boards that i have, and at the gym I can pick and choose between several hangboards, or bolting the holds onto the systems wall.

When I was at the gunks, I got this Pirates! game for my iYup. You cruise around, pirating, wooing governors daughters, and seeking treasure. You get all kinds of items, like a spyglass, better sails, pistols, etc.

One of the items i got was a Dutch Rutter!

I couldn't believe it!! I got it and laughed for several minutes and had to tell Cornelius about the Dutch Rudder. And then of course the Slave Ship.

Anyway, the Dutch Rutter showed me on my map the location of secret dutch settlements so I could raid them. No touching pehishes involved

I played a very similar Pirates! game at one point. It was pretty damn fun. My one gripe is that the actual driving force of the Caribbean economy of the 17th century was completely excluded or whitewashed. Yup. Not a single mention of slavery.

When I was at the gunks, I got this Pirates! game for my iYup. You cruise around, pirating, wooing governors daughters, and seeking treasure. You get all kinds of items, like a spyglass, better sails, pistols, etc.

One of the items i got was a Dutch Rutter!

I couldn't believe it!! I got it and laughed for several minutes and had to tell Cornelius about the Dutch Rudder. And then of course the Slave Ship.

Anyway, the Dutch Rutter showed me on my map the location of secret dutch settlements so I could raid them. No touching pehishes involved

Speaking of Dutch Rudders, Jack has fallen off the grid again. Anyone heard from him recently?

When I was at the gunks, I got this Pirates! game for my iYup. You cruise around, pirating, wooing governors daughters, and seeking treasure. You get all kinds of items, like a spyglass, better sails, pistols, etc.

One of the items i got was a Dutch Rutter!

I couldn't believe it!! I got it and laughed for several minutes and had to tell Cornelius about the Dutch Rudder. And then of course the Slave Ship.

Anyway, the Dutch Rutter showed me on my map the location of secret dutch settlements so I could raid them. No touching pehishes involved

I played a very similar Pirates! game at one point. It was pretty damn fun. My one gripe is that the actual driving force of the Caribbean economy of the 17th century was completely excluded or whitewashed. Yup. Not a single mention of slavery.

Well, the most recent version of "Treasure Island" that is on netflix did have a very racially diverse cast of pirates. So at least there's that.

Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.

Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.

Well, not so on the Moonboard...

But yeah, I am already hating the one slomper in the middle.

The more I think about it, the more it seems that buying a hangboard is a waste of money for almost anyone, regardless of the level. Seems like you are better off just buying a couple of holds that you want to use, and bolting/screwing them onto a woody.

Of course it is a moot point bc I have not bought any of the boards that i have, and at the gym I can pick and choose between several hangboards, or bolting the holds onto the systems wall.

When I was at the gunks, I got this Pirates! game for my iYup. You cruise around, pirating, wooing governors daughters, and seeking treasure. You get all kinds of items, like a spyglass, better sails, pistols, etc.

One of the items i got was a Dutch Rutter!

I couldn't believe it!! I got it and laughed for several minutes and had to tell Cornelius about the Dutch Rudder. And then of course the Slave Ship.

Anyway, the Dutch Rutter showed me on my map the location of secret dutch settlements so I could raid them. No touching pehishes involved

I played a very similar Pirates! game at one point. It was pretty damn fun. My one gripe is that the actual driving force of the Caribbean economy of the 17th century was completely excluded or whitewashed. Yup. Not a single mention of slavery.

Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.

Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.

Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.

Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.

they are more complicated.

Both are totally doable with the cam doctor, which comes with all the parts you'll need for the rest of your life. I bought mine about four years ago, and I've probably replaced about a dozen trigger wires in that time. Totally worth it.

One thing - do the BD first - it's easier, and you'll learn a lot as you do it, then the Alien after.

Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.

Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.

Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.

Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.

they are more complicated.

Both are totally doable with the cam doctor, which comes with all the parts you'll need for the rest of your life. I bought mine about four years ago, and I've probably replaced about a dozen trigger wires in that time. Totally worth it.

One thing - do the BD first - it's easier, and you'll learn a lot as you do it, then the Alien after.

Went into the gym yesterday afternoon when nobody was there. Did some easy campusing on the 70 degree wall to warm-up, which was pretty doable. Scoped out the two new hangboreds that we have in the gym; I really like the Detroit one, but there is a new Metolius that replaced an old Metolius that I am not a fan of.

Yup. All but the smallest two sizes are a bit too big for me. Another complaint that I have is that all the manufacturers tend to put the very smallest sizes in the middle of the board, which sucks. You wind up training the hard stuff from a fucking tyrannosaurus position.

Well, not so on the Moonboard...

But yeah, I am already hating the one slomper in the middle.

The more I think about it, the more it seems that buying a hangboard is a waste of money for almost anyone, regardless of the level. Seems like you are better off just buying a couple of holds that you want to use, and bolting/screwing them onto a woody.

Of course it is a moot point bc I have not bought any of the boards that i have, and at the gym I can pick and choose between several hangboards, or bolting the holds onto the systems wall.

Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.

Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.

Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.

Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.

they are more complicated.

Both are totally doable with the cam doctor, which comes with all the parts you'll need for the rest of your life. I bought mine about four years ago, and I've probably replaced about a dozen trigger wires in that time. Totally worth it.

One thing - do the BD first - it's easier, and you'll learn a lot as you do it, then the Alien after.

Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.

Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.

Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.

Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.

they are more complicated.

Both are totally doable with the cam doctor, which comes with all the parts you'll need for the rest of your life. I bought mine about four years ago, and I've probably replaced about a dozen trigger wires in that time. Totally worth it.

One thing - do the BD first - it's easier, and you'll learn a lot as you do it, then the Alien after.

GO

There's the door. Bye.

::sniff:: he still reads it! that's so sweet.

I drop in and catch up sometimes when the rest of the site is really really dead. Like now. Often good stuff in here.

Hey CI ... you know where you can get alien trigger wires repaired? One of the wires on my red is broken.

Also been sitting on a broken trigger on a #3, but I assume I can get that fixed through BD. And it's less critical of a piece, since I have two of them and so does everybody else.

Fixing trigger wires on BD cams yoreself is no big thing. We picked up a trigger wire replacement kit some years ago with all the bits an pieces.

Don't know if the Aliens are more complicated though.

they are more complicated.

Both are totally doable with the cam doctor, which comes with all the parts you'll need for the rest of your life. I bought mine about four years ago, and I've probably replaced about a dozen trigger wires in that time. Totally worth it.

One thing - do the BD first - it's easier, and you'll learn a lot as you do it, then the Alien after.

GO

There's the door. Bye.

::sniff:: he still reads it! that's so sweet.

I drop in and catch up sometimes when the rest of the site is really really dead. Like now. Often good stuff in here.

Cheers,

GO

I've said it before, the BET is like a sanctuary commune in the middle of a Mad Max post apocalyptic hell.

Super shitty week here. I've been working on the machine from hell. The thing is a Frankenstien it's been modified so many times over the last 25-30 years. No drawings for anything. No one ever pulled out the old stuff when they made changes so you're constantly playing a guessing game on what on what goes where and if xyz has any effect on abc.

Unless you've worked on a big machine you may not understand how painful this process is.

Anyway, been working long days all this week. Was supossed to be on vacation today, but had epic 16 hour battle yesterday with the machine. Finally got it to the point where I can't do anything electical with it, but I don't think I can leave yet.