We made an early reservation at the soft opening of Tennessee Taco Company last week, which opened to the public on Monday. As such, we were among a handful of the first people to be served, but within 30 minutes of taking our seats, the place was full and I told my guests: "They're slammed. We eat what they bring us for tonight."

But with all those people and all the items we ordered (some items are shareable, but everything is a la carte), all we missed was the cauliflower hot wings.

The Menu

The menu is impressive and anyone who likes a play on words will appreciate it. There's the Tom Lee Pork, Memphis in May-ico, It's Hard Out Here for a Shrimp, Don't Go Bacon My Heart, and the Caulilujah, among a dozen or so named in the same spirit (there are 24 tacos).

The Pot o' Tots is definitely made to be shared and is a big ol' cast iron pot (Lodge, in keeping with the Tennessee name) full of tater tots with a bottom layer of cheese dip and cheddar cheese, crispy bits of pork belly, chorizo, bacon and drizzled with barbecue sauce. Sound out of park? It is, but I'll share it with a big table again, with one modification: Salsa instead of barbecue sauce. But that's just mean--I'm particular about where I want barbecue sauce, and it's limited to, um, barbecue.

Fan favorite

Our favorite taco--but we have plenty more to go--was Gus's Favorite, fried chicken with bits of bacon, cheddar cheese, pico de gallo and a spicy chipotle ranch.

We liked the queso con carne, cheese dip served with chorizo and pico de gallo.

There are 11 speciality cocktails plus house margaritas, wine and beer, and frozen drinks.

Tennessee Taco Company is at 3295 Poplar (901-458-5731) and is open daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m.