Map: Landranger 90, OL5, OL7

Weather: Sunny to start, followed by
drizzle, then with stinging sleet and a bit of snow on top,
with a bitter northerly wind. But ending up in late
afternoon sunshine.

From Grasmere village walk along Easedale Road,
up to the tarn. Climb up to Blea Rigg and walk up to
Sergeant Man. Continue up to High Raise, then down to
Greenup Edge. Cross over the valley and head over to
Blackriggs Moss, follow the ridge down to Gibsons Knott and
Helm Crag, returning to Grasmere: 12.6 miles as
measured on my new talking pedometer – I stuffed it in the
bag as it wasn’t working initially – then it did.

After a lovely walk earlier in the week I was hopeful of
the same, and the weather forecast was favourable. But the
law of averages states that into all our lives some rain
will fall – rats. I parked up behind the café close to
Grasmere church and paid the £6 daily charge. No one was
around save a few couples out for a stroll to browse around
the village. I was expecting it to be nippy today so decided
on a four layer clothing set today to keep me toasty warm,
and when I got up to High Raise I really appreciated it.
Obviously when I am setting out if the gradient is not too
strenuous I have more clothing on, then as I start to warm
up I’ll remove a layer or two depending on the wind. The
worse thing is to get too sweaty as you ascend and then get
the chill factor when hitting the wind. I walked into the
village and passed the famous gingerbread shop, and resisted
the café at the corner of Easedale Road – which was easy
enough – it wasn’t open. I walked up the quiet road, up a
steep little bank and then past a row of houses at Goody
Point. There were some lovely late autumnal colours in some
of the gardens, all set against a background of big fells
atop steep sided valleys.

Through the garden to Seat Sandal and Great Rigg

Easedale Beck with Easedale tarn hidden above the beck in
the distance

A fern attired beech tree above a mossy wall

The path ahead gets steeper

I left the road as I met Easedale Beck, crossed by a
stone bridge and then followed an old stony path. It was a
little gloomy down in the valley, but peaceful listening to
the babbling beck bubbling below – that’s enough b’s for
today (although I did mutter rowlocks a couple of times when
it got cold later on). The beck here follows an unnaturally
straight line, no doubt guided by the farmers over the
years. Plenty of the boulders have been used in making up
the walling, and I passed by an interesting beech tree that
was adorned with ferns growing out and around its trunk. I
noticed that there are also a lot of strange shaped
enclosures around, probably due to legacies left to the
National Trust, while surrounding land remains in private
hands. The ascent towards the end of the farmed valley is
easy, and the rise of the fells begins with the waterfalls
of Sourmilk Gill which draw the eye up towards the steep
hillside below Easedale Tarn. The rocks below the tarn are
volcanic and hard, resisting erosion over the ice ages. The
path winds up alongside the waterfalls which are no doubt a
popular spot for summer picnics – the sound of the water is
very soothing – unless you need the loo! As I crested the
waterfalls there was still a steady climb before the tarn
comes into view, but it sits nicely in a bowl below the
steep surrounding crags.

Sourmilk Gill – the outflow of Easedale Tarn

Looking back down to Grasmere

Easedale Tarn

The route took me around the south side of the water with
Greathead Crag looming large beyond. I heard the roar of jet
engines approaching up the valley and saw two sweeping
behind the next valley. I took a picture but they always end
up looking like a dot and nothing as spectacular as when
they bank around the fellside. Ahead of me I could see the
route climbing steeply up towards Eagle Crag and Belles
Knot, so I peeled off a layer before the hard work began,
and watched a couple of buzzards circling high along the
crags. As I ascended I got an inkling of the weather to come
and could see low cloud flowing down over the higher ground
- and as I said earlier the law of averages states that for
every 7 sunny walks, you will get persisted upon regally
from above. I guess the moral of that is if the forecasts
were that good we Brits wouldn’t have anything to talk
about. The route got steeper up beyond the tarn, with boggy
sections crossing small becks, but the delight of this walk
came when I was clear of Belles Knott and up to the ridge of
Blea Rigg. I could see Codale Tarn away to my right so I
knew I was in the right place, and it is a good reference
point. Away to my left the Langdale Pikes hove into view,
with some bigger boys in the distance. It was interesting
for me to get a good close look at Pavey Ark and get a
perspective of how steep Jacks Rake really is. I haven’t
been up there yet, and I doubt anyone else did today.

Up above the tarn you can clearly see all the moraines
deposited around

Looking across to Pavey Ark and Harrison Stickle

Up on Blea Rigg the wind was blowing up a storm and when
the rain/sleet came down it was a real stinger. So much was
the force of the wind I had to hold my hand in front of my
face for some protection, bracing I think you would call it.
The view to the west looking down to Stickle Tarn kept me
occupied as I made my way up the ridge to Sergeant Man, and
I saw a couple of fell runners moving very quickly. I’m not
surprised either as it had turned very cold in the wind,
with the snow giving a gentle dusting to the higher fells.
The strong northerly wind blew squalls along swiftly and
gave me some good atmospheric pictures of Harrison Stickle
and the Crinkle Crags beyond. Once I had made it up Blea
Rigg to Sergeant Man I took some time to enjoy the limited
views down to Grasmere and Windermere. There are lots of
glacial features to be seen and they dominate the landscape
giving a unique feel to the Lake District that makes it so
special in the UK.

Stickle Tarn below, Crinkle Crags in the distance

The view down from Sergeant Man – a toad like landscape

Harrison Stickle with the Crinkle Crags and Bowfell beyond

It really was awfully windy..

Once I started towards High Raise the weather was harsh
with snow/sleet straight into my face – ouch. The path up to
High Raise summit is indistinct, and I passed a small tarn
towards the top. The wind was now so strong that I could
barely stand still or hold the camera still, but the ground
was not too bad – it was 2 steps forward, 1 back or
sideways. I had my usual slice of luck as I got to the
summit cairn with the clouds lifting to reveal views north
to the Scottish hills beyond the Solway Firth (there’s a lot
of beyond today), Helvellyn was away to the west with a
light dusting of snow. The wind was so strong and the chill
factor must have been below zero. I wanted to stop for a
bite but I ended up just stuffing my bun in my face and not
hanging around the shelter.

Looking north from High Raise trig point – Scotland in the
distance

The old fence line down to the crossroads at Greenup Edge

I checked my bearings and made my way east to pick up the
path going north to meet up with Whitestones and Greenup
Edge, loosing ground as I swung around towards the correct
ridge to lead me to Helm Crag. It was slippery icy
conditions underfoot, but at least it firmed up the boggy
bits. The crossroads of the paths were easily spotted and I
dropped down into a little valley beneath, crossing several
becks carefully before climbing up to Brownriggs Moss.
Another fell runner passed me by with his arms outstretched
making rapid headway down the hillside, and he showed me the
way around towards my next objective. I saw a few runners
wearing ‘sponsored by the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel’ T-shirts
– hmmmmm - a T-shirt and a few pints for hurtling up and
down fells – I think I’ll buy my own. The long ridge down to
Helm Crag looks an easy enough descent from on high, but
there were plenty of up and downs, and a few small scrambles
to keep me interested. There was also the matter of the wind
– it was still fierce, but at least the sun was shining and
the rain had stopped.

Helvellyn with his head in the clouds across the valleys

The path down and across to Brownriggs Moss

Brownriggs Moss

The wind was whipping up the surface of the unnamed tarn
on Brownriggs Moss, and you could have held the UK mouse
surfing championships – the waves were that good - mind you
there wouldn’t have been many competitors. I worked my way
along at a 45deg angle, leaning into the wind at my side,
which was a bit awkward at times and didn’t make for rapid
progress. I had occasional glimpses of Helvellyn beyond
Steel Fell, and could also see the shapely Seat Sandal.

Looking back along the ridge to Calf Crags

Helvellyn with a light dusting of castor sugar

Down the ridge to Gibson Knott and Helm Crag, from just a
Moment Crag

Helm Crag from Gibson Knott, Grasmere to the right side

The next point along the ridge was Gibson Knott and once
I was up there I had a good view of the final climb to Helm
Crag, with the Howitzer prominent on its peak. At last I had
some easy walking on a gentle path alongside Gibson Knott
and down towards Bracken Hause. It was a delight here to
pause and take in a retrospective view of the route taken
earlier. It is always good to get a proper appreciation of
the effort you made to gain the higher ground – as in ‘did I
really go up there?’ – I often think to myself ‘yes Zippy
you did hahaha.’. I basked (not baked) in the late afternoon
sunshine, picking out various features in the landscape that
came into view. Then I had the final stomp up to the summit
of Helm Crag. I spent some time enjoying the top and as
Wainwright said ‘The summit is altogether a rather weird and
fantastic place, well worth not merely a visit but a
detailed and leisurely exploration’. There are two prominent
outcrops known as the ‘Lion and Lamb’ and the ‘Howitzer’.
The true peak of Helm Crag would be up on top of one of the
big stones, but unless you’re a mountaineer don’t try it.

Looking back up the ridge with Far Easedale to the left and
Greenburn to the right

I think this one is the Howitzer

..and this one the Lion and Lamb

The end is nigh, looking down from the end of Helm Crag over
Grasmere

Today’s route across the valley

A final look back from close to Grasmere

I saw another fell runner hurtling down the slopes, arms
outstretched for balance – mincing down the fell! It was
still cold and windy so I followed the runner down the well
worn paths which zigzag down off the crags, passing some
Holly trees laden with red berries, and ending up in the
woods at Lancrigg. This must have been an old estate some
time ago as there are remnants of paths and moss covered
ornamental ponds. I couldn’t find my way out here, as the
path looked to cross over some gardens in front of a house.
I wasn’t sure so rather than disturb someone’s peaceful
view, I climbed a gate into the nearest field and crossed
over to a track. I did disturb some deer on my way through,
so obviously it wasn’t an oft used way. My route returned me
back down the Easedale Road, into Grasmere and I ended the
day next to the church. The village was busy with day
trippers taking tea and scones, no doubt after visiting Dove
Cottage – Wordsworth’s old place. It was a good walk today,
and I was cold but satisfied. A fell runner once told me
that they run down hill on their toes, and they call it
point running. Well I walk on the balls of my feet, but I
still call it walking – and it’s brilliant in all weathers.