Our June/July issue featured lots of egg love, including praise for pastured eggs from many chefs around the country. Here, Cathal Armstrong of Restaurant Eve in Alexandria, Va., shares his favorite way to use fresh eggs. Serves 8

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Line a buttered 15-by-10 (1-inch) quarter-sheet tray with parchment paper. Butter
the paper, dust with flour, and tap out the excess.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan
over medium-high heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.
Gradually whisk in the milk. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in the egg
yolks , 1 at a time. Season with salt. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks
form. Stir 1/2 of the whites into the yolk mixture and fold in the rest. Then
fold in the chives and flaked mackerel. Pour the batter into the bottom of the
prepared pan and smooth gently with a metal spatula. Transfer to the oven and
cook until golden and firm to the touch, about 10 minutes.

Cover the egg sponge with a buttered
piece of parchment paper, buttered side down. Cover with a damp kitchen towel
and invert onto a work surface. Peel off the paper from the top. Allow the
Sponge to cool.

Make the mayonnaise. Beat the cream
cheese until smooth and fold in the mayonnaise, scallions, dill and lemon
juice. When the sponge is cool, spread the filling and use to towel to roll it
up.

Put the whole eggs and yolks, mustard, and some salt
in a large bowl and mash them well together. To this paste, add the lemon juice
and then the oil, drop by drop, as if making mayonnaise. Finish the sauce by
adding the chopped herbs, capers and cornichons. Taste and correct the
seasoning.

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