25 ottobre 2012

Stilettos on Lex﻿﻿﻿
A woman walks decidedly down Lexington Avenue in New York (that's why on Lex). Seduced by the trail of her perfume and by the percussion of her stilettos on the street, the imagination draws her sharp figure even before seeing her. Temptation is the thread of this fragrance, the most modern and feminine one, obviously also the one with a sillage that takes no prisoners.
The opening is joyful with a not too sweet green, juicy pear. Despite being described as a fruity-floral chypre, the true kernel of the fragrance is woody and walks hovering between feminine and masculine with high cedarwood heels. It's a nicely updated take on the fruity-liquorous woods born at beginning of the past century with fragrances like Le Fruit Défendu (Henri Alméras, Les Parfums de Rosine 1914) and yet got back in fashion with Lutens Feminité du Bois (1992). The light floral touch is due to lily of the valley while violet leaves smooth it down popping out a leather hint. The ground under these heels is covered in light dust with humid patchouly and orris root. A discrete yet carnal femininity gets heady like a roses and plums passito with vanilla and cloves: what's candied pulpy fruit in Boxeuses and in Chambre Noire turns out as soft skin, here becomes a fragrant plum-stone hiding an heliotrope poisonous almond as irresistible as dangerous.