Digital Gastronomy

Prop styling: Laurie Raab Justin Fantl

IBM’s AI-like computer systems aren’t limited to Watson, the Jeopardy-winning supercomputer that schooled Ken Jennings on national television. In fact, IBM researchers foresee a not-so-distant future when algorithms will be a replacement for inefficient customer service models, a diagnostic tool for doctors, and believe it or not, chefs.

Researcher Lav Varshney has already built an algorithm that creates recipes from parameters like cuisine type, dietary restrictions, and course. The system determines optimal mixtures based on three things: tens of thousands of recipes taken from sources like the Institute of Culinary Education or the Internet, a database of hedonic psychophysics (what humans like to eat), and food chemistry. Right now, the result is like a pre–Julia Child cookbook, providing chefs, who already know cooking basics, with suggestions for billions of ingredient combinations but no instructions.

To test its skill, we pitted IBM’s algorithm against go-to-recipe resource Epicurious (owned by WIRED’s parent company, Condé Nast). We searched the site for a Caribbean plantain dessert and found a tasty concoction with rum and coconut sauce. With the same parameters, IBM’s computer generated a list of about 50 ingredients, including orange, papaya, and cayenne pepper, from which IBM researcher and professional chef Florian Pinel developed a mind-blowing Caymanian parfait. While the IBM dessert tasted better, it was also insanely elaborate, so we’ll call it a draw. —Allison P. Davis

Papaya and orange salad (top layer)

Whisk in butter and cayenne pepper. Adjust pepper as needed: You should be able to taste just a hint of it.

Add papaya and remove from heat. Transfer to a container and let cool 15 minutes.

Pour on top of pastry cream and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

Plantain chips (garnish)

corn oil, for deep-frying
1 plantain, very cold
salt

In a deep fryer, heat oil to 375° F.

Meanwhile, peel plantain, then cut in half. Using a mandoline, slice each half lengthwise, very thinly (you want long strips, not circular chips). Slices should be just thick enough so they don’t break. Cut each strip lengthwise into two thinner strips.

Fry strips in small batches until golden brown, then drain on paper towels and let cool.

Fry cooled strips a second time for about 10 seconds to make them crispy. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt.