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Controller on but no zones working

I bought a house in the late fall. The first time I looked at the house, the sprinkler system wasn't working. They fixed it, then it broke again at some point, and they fixed it again before I moved in. It was off all winter, then it worked the first time I turned it on this spring (all zones and everything appeared fine). The second time I turned it on it did not work.

Here's what's happening:
The controller/computer part is on and acting normal, but none of the zones activate (this is the same thing it was doing when it wasn't working back in the fall). I think I just need to re-do whatever they did in the fall to fix it.

Here's what I checked:
-Fuse passes continuity test
-All wires are snugly in place, and I think the place they are in is correct
-Box in the ground outside is full of dirt, so I don't think they messed with anything in there to fix it originally

System is a Rainbird ESP TM (fairly old)

It's been plugged an unplugged a couple times, maybe something going on with that.

Is there a rain detector wired into the system? Have you performed a resistance check of the zone wiring? That gives you both a continuity check and an indication of the solenoid 'health' - one ohmmeter lead to the system common, and one lead to the zone terminal.

Older ESP controllers can get problems with the central dial. It turns and moves into position just fine, but it might be fluky as far as actual continuity goes.

You should remove the excess dirt from the valve box, so you have a view of the zone valves and their wiring. You also will be able to manually operate a zone valve, without needing the controller.

Is there a rain detector wired into the system? Have you performed a resistance check of the zone wiring? That gives you both a continuity check and an indication of the solenoid 'health' - one ohmmeter lead to the system common, and one lead to the zone terminal.

Older ESP controllers can get problems with the central dial. It turns and moves into position just fine, but it might be fluky as far as actual continuity goes.

You should remove the excess dirt from the valve box, so you have a view of the zone valves and their wiring. You also will be able to manually operate a zone valve, without needing the controller.

I'm not sure if there's a rain detector or not.This is my first time ever looking at a sprinkler system so I'm just googling things as I go.

Going to try the resistance check now, I think I can figure that out.

Also going to try to manually operate a zone as you suggested. The grass really needs it.

Is there a rain detector wired into the system? Have you performed a resistance check of the zone wiring? That gives you both a continuity check and an indication of the solenoid 'health' - one ohmmeter lead to the system common, and one lead to the zone terminal.

Older ESP controllers can get problems with the central dial. It turns and moves into position just fine, but it might be fluky as far as actual continuity goes.

You should remove the excess dirt from the valve box, so you have a view of the zone valves and their wiring. You also will be able to manually operate a zone valve, without needing the controller.

I'm not sure if there's a rain detector or not.This is my first time ever looking at a sprinkler system so I'm just googling things as I go.

Going to try the resistance check now, I think I can figure that out.

Also going to try to manually operate a zone as you suggested. The grass really needs it.

Checked resistance from the "Com" wire to each of the 4 zones. All 30-40 ohms.