Hanzell: Trailblazing Sonoma Winemakers with Exciting Wines

By: Esther Mobley

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Some of California’s historic wineries are notable merely by virtue of their history; too many of them peaked, quality-wise, long ago. Hanzell is the rare example of a rich, trailblazing history meeting current-release wines as exciting as any in California — with an exceptionally scenic view to boot.

First established in 1940 by James Zellerbach — a paper-company executive, U.S. ambassador to Italy and lover of Romanée-Saint-Vivant — the 200-acre Hanzell property contains six different vineyards, including some Pinot Noir still standing from the original 1953 planting, which would put it among the very oldest Pinot plantings in the state. Hanzell was also the first winery to use temperature-controlled tanks for fermentation, the result of a collaboration between then-winemaker Brad Webb and a stainless steel manufacturer. That system, so primitive looking now, still exists in the original winery building — which, anachronistic as it is, was used for winemaking through the 2003 vintage.

You’ll learn all that fascinating history and more on a tour of Hanzell, which includes a ride around the rolling property before you adjourn to the cellar of the original winery for a tasting. (It truly is a cellar, so it’s cold; pashminas are provided.) It’s a lovely experience, packed with history without feeling tiresome, and at this elevation, you’ll get a good feel for Sonoma Valley geography. You may never want to leave.

WHAT TO TRY: The soul of Hanzell is Chardonnay. The main event is the estate Chardonnay, intensely mineral with a quiet richness; the 2013 vintage suggests a brûléed grapefruit note, lemon verbena, a kiss of brioche on the finish. At $78, it isn’t cheap, which is why you should also taste their entry-level Chardonnay, called Sebella. It’s zippier, more primary in its fruit expression, having seen no new oak. If you enjoy a leaner wine to a richer one, you may prefer the cheaper option.