Has anybody been getting any sort of error codes with their mods? Any particular time or reason?

I had a couple occur and reset it and was able to continue. There have been a few um...user errors, so I'm wondering even more about the sensors to vape connection. There is some sort of heat/voltage sensor thingy going on? So if say the beads moved or the exposed wires experienced a slight bend that might cause the settings to go a little ajar. Guess my main question I'm asking myself is how sensitive the sensors are and if there is anything physically parts wise that would be the cause for me to watch out for. Don't want to do anything to cause more errors And prevent um... more user errors. Any insights?

What dose the SHR stand for on these mods?
My G has been overheating. Well. The p80. Changed settings and tolled it was at 0c so looks like it's stopped over heating. But I had to change the SHR so it would get hot enough to vape. Warms up faster and gets much hotter now iv dialed it up. Works well for me cuz I use a basket screen outside the bowel. I have turned down the watts used as that was creeping up high befor I changed the SHR value

WARNING WITH SHR.....or changing other settings that Bud did not instruct to change on the myevic software.

SHR

Shunt Resistance (in mΩ). (real resistance in Ohm now) Warning: This item is dangerous to your box. Messing with this parameter may cause over current in the atomizer circuitry and lead to definitive box failure.
This item let you edit the value of the Atomizer's circuit shunt resistance. This resistance is involved in every resistance/current/power measures and computation in the whole firmware. This value should only be changed if you know exactly what you are doing.
To reset the shunt value, select the SHR menu item and press the fire button during 2 seconds. This will revert the value to the default hardware setting.

ok. Thanks for reply. If turned it a few points. Thanks for info. Seems it fire's back to about 0.870 and I pushed it up to 1.2 really makes it vape though. i will turn it's down a few clicks see how low I can get it. But I don't think I will keep it at .8

Meemee, you really don't want to mess with that setting. It's a measure of the internal circuitry resistance in the mod that is used to compensate all of the calculations done by the mod. If you change it the mod no longer understands it's own physical properties and every reading for power, voltage and current will be wrong. There are other ways to boost the output power that will still allow the mod to self regulate accurately.

I don't claim any direct expertise about mods or the G43 but my background is Electrical Engineering so I'm good on underlying principles. I imagine they exposed that setting only for the hardcore mod builders\customizers who are actually changing the circuitry.

I imagine they exposed that setting only for the hardcore mod builders\customizers who are actually changing the circuitry. — badbee

When I first got a mod last fall.......turning it on...and looking around in the settings....first thing I though to myself was...."there needs to be a developer lock on 60% of the available settings". lol

If you are not versed with mods....do not mess much with settings if you have no clue what it is..or how it affects use. Especially with using the G43.....because you do not want it to.....NOT work for you. :wink:

Describe your power settings, timings and results and I'm sure others with expertise will be able to help. I just got my first mod this week and was going through the myevic and sur_myevic documentation and source code yesterday. These firmware mods remind me of game moding, there's lots of freedom to completely break things.

hey. Yeah..I'm still tuning it all in. Can't get consistent dense hits with even vaping. Seems at times I'm just ripping all the heat off the coil. Then waiting to heat up. Then overheating mod. Battery change. Now the mod thinks it's 250c everytime I turn it on. So.i have to repeatedly tell it's set lower. I just put 0c to save over heating.
Seems I'm still learning. Most people seem to just turn it on and vape. Mines always been too hot or too cold or not fully vaping evenly.
I give it 5mins heat up. But all the heat gets ripped off first rip. Tbh it was running alot better with the SHR dialed up slightly. I had one bowel regular setting and few watts up. Can't seem to tell much difference with one rip. But defo tskes longer to heat up. More testing required. I not used it a huge amount since I got it. It's my 7th vape. Maybe I can say more for defo after more testing and setting

yeah. Works same as what Mr green thumbs is talking about.
I don't load in the G slide no. I didn't like it as much as loading just outside the the..Though I do try it in the G somtimes. Just leaves it so dirty. And I find it easier to get and even vape with it further from the G. With a stir.
I will just bump up wattage if I need more heat..
didn't realise I was being a naughty boy bumping up SHR. Definitely works better than just more watts. But maybe I try a few more watts if I want to help heat up

meeemeee are you using the basket screen below the G slide? If so...that will limit the vapor a lot. A regular screen in there is advisable....this way you get much more air flow at lower strength breath.

This is why your not getting a good extraction. The basket screen is very tiny mesh size..and outside the slide...there is not enough direct pressure with it. Also if it is at all gunked up...it limits the air flow twice as much. I could not wait to get rid of that screen and just use a regular Elev8r bowl setup with an open mesh screen like most vapes.

Do you think I could use these batteries for my mod? Sorry im horrible with electricity. I have a couple of these laying around. Im trying to use it at 10.5 Watts with 0.83 Resistance. The batter resistance is 0.35

Sorry for doubling the question, but am I right, that I can use this vaporizer with my own regular vape mod? and the only differences are the autofire and cruise mode in myevic firmware?
In ArcticFox firmware I have autofire mode too, but with 1min cutoff. I can just restart heating every 1min.

forsen.....you really need a mod that runs full cruise mode. It needs consistent heat to stay soaked enough for several hits in a session. But if your trying to get just 1 or 2 draws....it will still be hard because it needs a good 4 mins run time of steady heat before you can get a good hit.

Hi there, does anyone know if DNA chips are compatible. Is that what is in the wismec? I have a VTinbox that has a DNA chip in it. I am pretty sure it's good for this but wanted to check! Thanks for any help in advance!

my wismec dna250 doesnt run cruise mode.... does yours? If not you will need something that you can download mysirevic firmware on. I believe there is a compatibility list on the first page of this thread.