Bourbon fans might scoff at the notion, dismissing rye in the same way single-malt snobs look down on blended scotches.

But the fact is, rye whiskey is enjoying something of a renaissance these days, including the debut of several ultra-premium labels that are setting new standards for quality.

The key difference between bourbon and rye is the grain: Bourbon is distilled from a mash that is mostly corn (at least 51 percent), while rye is mostly, yes, rye (typically blended with corn and/or barley). Both whiskeys, however, derive much of their flavor and character from aging in charred oak barrels.

While the best-quality bourbon has long been appreciated as a fine spirit worthy of savoring, rye was traditionally a bar whiskey, more suitable for mixing whiskey sours and the like. Rye was generally drier and, frankly, a bit harsher than the best bourbons. And it usually cost less, too.

Not anymore. Americans' growing interest in fine whiskeys -- from vintage-dated single-malt scotches to decade-old single-barrel bourbons -- has led to a renewed interest in rye as an American classic. The new breed of rye tends to be sweeter and smoother than your grandfather's whiskey, and also more expensive -- $30 and up for top labels.

Taste tip: The latest and perhaps ultimate example of this trend is a rye from Jim Beam, the good old bourbon distiller, that is being marketed with a post-modern name: (ri). Pronounced "rye," (ri) certainly looks the part, with a tall, cylindrical bottle and slick, Madison Avenue label. More importantly, the whiskey is delicious -- similar to a great bourbon in its richness and weight, but not quite so sweet. It sells for about $45 a bottle.