Harvest a bean pole for side dishes

The bean forms the backbone of many vegetable gardens, perhaps because it is one of the few veggies that grow happily in awful sticky heat and the long, sweet decline of autumn. That is achieved with an array of species, varieties and forms that fit any bill. Some gardeners like the compact and obliging bush bean, but if you want to give beans their due and lend some vertical oomph to your plot, pole beans are a must.

Joe Brunetti, of the American History Museum’s Victory Garden, is a bean-o-maniac, and he is reaping the rewards of this passion in the late-season bounty of eight varieties of pole beans and two of bush beans.

He has planted about half a dozen 12-foot rows of beans, most of them trellised and each enough to feed a family of four.

A FAVORITE OF FARMERS

Bush beans are favored by farmers for their ease of harvest; they’re low-growing and self-supporting, and the pods pretty much mature all at once.

A pole bean produces more sequentially over several weeks, making it perfect for the domestic needs of the home gardener. At this time of year, though, it’s important to harvest every three or four days and to pick pods before they get too big. That diligence keeps the plant healthy, vigorous and fruitful.

Beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They’re not heavy feeders, but Joe’s vines did not get so lush and vigorous by accident: He sowed them in deep, enriched soil and made sure they were adequately watered.

LITTLE BLACK DRESS

Green beans are like the perfect little black dress: appropriate for so many occasions. Dressed with a bit of butter, they are a welcome, simple companion to roasts, steaks, fried chicken, even scrambled eggs. Toss in a few nuts or flavored oils and they are ready for company. With nuts, figs and herbs, they’ll be the hit of any dinner party. Try this recipe with different herbs and nuts, but definitely keep the figs. The dried fruit can be used, but rehydrate them with a liquid — wine, apple juice, water, etc. — before adding them to the recipe.

Green Beans With Figs and Walnuts

(Yields 6 servings)

2 pounds fresh green beans, rinsed, drained and ends trimmed

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, cut into small dice

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, minced

1 teaspoon honey

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest (from 2 or 3 lemons)

1 teaspoon fig balsamic vinegar

6 fresh figs, cut into sixths

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Water, as needed

½ cup walnut pieces, toasted

Fill a large saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Carefully add the green beans; once the water returns to a boil, cook for 4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water until the beans are cool to the touch.

Add the oil to the saucepan and return to the stove over medium heat. When it is hot, add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to soften. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the rosemary, honey, mustard, lemon zest and vinegar; mix well to form a glaze.

Add the cooled green beans and stir to coat evenly, then add the figs. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the beans are warmed through and the flavors have had a chance to mingle. If the glaze begins to thicken and stick to the bottom of the saucepan, add water a tablespoon at a time to achieve the desired consistency.

Remove from the heat. Toss in the walnuts and serve warm, or at room temperature.

Toast walnuts in a dry skillet over medium-low heat for 4 to 6 minutes or until fragrant, shaking them occasionally to keep them from burning. — From Smithsonian Gardens education specialist Cynthia A. Brown.