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How do I replace the ignition switch in my 86 hatch? I have the column pulled apart, do I have to pull the steering wheel? A step by step would really help.

Remove all the plastic cowling from underneath (6 screws I believe). The ignition switch unscrews with two small screws from the ignition lock and then unplugs from the harness about 4 to 5 inches down the cable; look for a pink plastic connector (at least that's what it's been in most of the EA81's I've worked on). It's been so long, but the two screws I'm talking about might be so-called "tamper proof." When I ran into that I used a small visegrip to loosen them and then took them out the rest of the way by hand.

I'm sorry, but the only way I know of to replace that is to replace the entire steering lock mechanism. That will entail removing the steering wheel and then drilling out the two tamper proof screws and that will allow you to replace the lock mechanism. Another way is to use a screw driver to start the car with the ignition switch and drive to a locksmith who should know how to take apart the lock cylinder. Howfully the steering lock is not engaged. Be prepared to shell out about $100 for repairing the lock cylinder. If you find a hatch or later model EA81 (I think '83 and '84 have the same locks as your hatch), you can remove the entire locking assembly and replace it on your hatch. If you do that, pull both driver and passenger door locks so you still have a matched set that will work with one key. The passenger side door lock will have the keycode and you can have a new key made.

you should be able to buy a complete switch and steering lock new, (atleast they are available here is aus) cost me $100AU didn't have to remove steering wheel, just plastic on column, used a hacksaw blade to remove the old ign. from the steering column.

note: I'm not sure if they new ign. i bought was aftermarket or genuine subaru.

DAMN! Thanks for the help, this is the last time I lend my car out. I don't know what my friend could have done, but when he brought the car back, it was running in the "lock" position, I disconnected the batt. and killed it with the clutch. I can slip the key in and get it halfway to the "off", but that's it. Any suggestions, or should I just consider it the worst case scenario and call a locksmith to come out and do it?

All of the mid '80's cars have ignition problems eventually. Your friend likely removed the key without turning the lock to off. Locksmith on the main drag in Redmond is where I go to have mine done; I had both lock cylinders replaced and keyed to match in my two '84 brats; pricey but I was tired of playing with the locks. You might try some tri-flo into the lock cylinder and hope you can release the steering lock (take the pressure off the steering lock by turning the wheel slightly one way or another while you try to turn the key in the ignition and get it back to normal). If you do need to call a locksmith try calling Aaron's Auto Wrecking in West Seattle and ask Tom or Brian if they can suggest a local locksmith to you.

All of the mid '80's cars have ignition problems eventually. Your friend likely removed the key without turning the lock to off. Locksmith on the main drag in Redmond is where I go to have mine done; I had both lock cylinders replaced and keyed to match in my two '84 brats; pricey but I was tired of playing with the locks. You might try some tri-flo into the lock cylinder and hope you can release the steering lock (take the pressure off the steering lock by turning the wheel slightly one way or another while you try to turn the key in the ignition and get it back to normal). If you do need to call a locksmith try calling Aaron's Auto Wrecking in West Seattle and ask Tom or Brian if they can suggest a local locksmith to you.

The wheel isn't locking, I can turn the wheel all the way from left to right. When he came back it was in the "lock" position, still running, and the key wouldn't turn forward to "off". Although it would turn about halfway to "off".He said once started he didn't mess with it untill he came inside saying "Dude, I can't get your car to turn off" He had to have done somthing. hhhhhmmmmm......

The lock comes off easy - get a pair of needle nose pliers, and tilt the column all the way down. You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off. I have a couple extra that I have scored from junk yards and such that happened to already have a key. They usually come off easy as there is no corrosion on those bolts being inside the car.

Get a replacement from the junk yard, note down the key code from the passenger door lock assembly, and have a key ground at your local dealer, or a lock smith. They can do it from the code for about $10.

i had similar problems with my ignition switch, i just said screw it and went with a push button start under the dash.. also makes for a handy anti theft setup for all those folks trying to jack a real hot rod, heh.

we tried to get a key made from the key code on our 86 hatch, but the key code listed in the book was a "W" key and all they had available to cut were "X" keys. SOL there. We need to get a "W" blank and have it cut. if anyone knows where to score one, it would be much appreciated.

we tried to get a key made from the key code on our 86 hatch, but the key code listed in the book was a "W" key and all they had available to cut were "X" keys. SOL there. We need to get a "W" blank and have it cut. if anyone knows where to score one, it would be much appreciated.

Same as a Dastun or Nissan blank. They used the same locks on many 80's cars. Nearly all my keys are nissan re-cut's. Your "smith" just doesn't know much about his job apparently.

we tried to get a key made from the key code on our 86 hatch, but the key code listed in the book was a "W" key and all they had available to cut were "X" keys. SOL there. We need to get a "W" blank and have it cut. if anyone knows where to score one, it would be much appreciated.

Get a new locksmith, he certainly doesn't know his business. All the EA81 lock codes are "W" followed by 3 digits. Key blanks are from Nissan/Datsun; Ilco X123 or DA25. Even my original Subaru key is an X123 blank. I've never heard of a "W" blank.

The lock comes off easy - get a pair of needle nose pliers, and tilt the column all the way down. You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off. I have a couple extra that I have scored from junk yards and such that happened to already have a key. They usually come off easy as there is no corrosion on those bolts being inside the car.

Get a replacement from the junk yard, note down the key code from the passenger door lock assembly, and have a key ground at your local dealer, or a lock smith. They can do it from the code for about $10.

GD

"You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off." Which bolts are you talking about? The ones under the cable things? those are the only ones left. And will I still have to pull the steering wheel?

"You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off." Which bolts are you talking about? The ones under the cable things? those are the only ones left. And will I still have to pull the steering wheel?

I may have advised you incorrectly about pulling the steering wheel; sorry. However, the two bolts under the cable only hold the steering column up; you don't want to loosen them. The two bolts are the ones the hold the two halves of the ignition/locking mechanism together. This is where a picture would be worth a 1000 words. The bolts come in from the left side of the ignition lock and one is near the top and the other just underneath it near the bottom. The are tamper proof bolts with the heads missing. A set of pointy visegrips sometimes can loosen them. I usually just drill out the heads and then replace the bolts with new ones. Look at it carefully, you'll figure it out.

thats interesting. this was from the parts dept at the dealer. so what you are saying is that the "Wxxx" code listed in my owners manual is correct, but that it just needs to be cut on a nissan/datsun key blank? i have never used a locksmith before, will they recognize this key code and be able to cut it, even though it is a subaru code.

thats interesting. this was from the parts dept at the dealer. so what you are saying is that the "Wxxx" code listed in my owners manual is correct, but that it just needs to be cut on a nissan/datsun key blank? i have never used a locksmith before, will they recognize this key code and be able to cut it, even though it is a subaru code.

I've had keys cut for any number of Subarus from the Wxxx code # by more than one locksmith. The one I use now, cuts keys from the code for $6 each; I have them cut one master key, make sure it works in all the locks and then have them cut copies from the master.

Odd that your dealer couldn't cut you a key. I didn't have the key code to my '94 Impreza, called the parts guy (Jason at Auburn Subaru), gave him my VIN# and he had a key cut for me and shipped it with my next order of parts. (It was cut on an Ilco X123 blank.

I remember an earlier post when the lock problems for the early '80's EA81s was discussed and there was supposed to be an "old time" locksmith in Bothell that was very good and reasonable. I went searching for that thread but couldn't find it. Maybe that post will come up again.

Ok so now what did I or didn't I do? I have the brand new lock cylinder in, but now the key seems to be in the ON and LOCK posistions at the same time. Key out, wheel locked, the LOCK position right? Insert key and rotate forward, all it seems to do is go forward into the momentary or the START position. What the hell? Please tell me what am I missing?