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Z.I.P.P. bolt that creats "M" effect?

I was just checking out the July issue of APG and saw an article about this Z.I.P.P. 2K Cycleflow bolt for cockers and angels. Now, I know this is a magazine laden with marketing ploys, but the idea still seemed thought provoking. The idea is the bolt has three holes on the bottom, as opposed to an evenly spaced venturi style. Though the article makes no claims as to what degree the magnus effect takes place, it does mention it as a "flatline" bolt.

/dodge marketing bashes

Does anyone have any experience with one of these or know anything about them?

My guess is IF backspin does occur, it would not be enough, and still render the balls under the vortex effect.
/shrug

undershot

I actually run a cooper t undershot bolt on my cocker. Its got a centre cut hole and a hole cut on the bottom. The only reason i run it is because its a spare parts cocker and it was the only bolt i could find.

From my experience, the bolt shoots no better or worse than any other. It is completely unnoticeable, hell, i didn't even know what the bolt was until some oldie pointed it out to me.

i could be wrong here, but isnt deep blue for dispelling hearsay, and marketing? to me it sounds like this thread has done nothing towards prooving or disproving this (these) products. could someone who owns or can borrow one of these bolts test it with different sized paint/barrels (from small/small to large/small to small/large and large/large) using a chronograph to record velocties and then measure to the ball for distance.... now their are still many factors (like wind, elevation, humidity and whatnot) that this is not taking into effect, but that expariment i proposed will give a pretty good idea if this (these) work or are bunk. but any i heard/my friend told me statements DO NOT BELONG IN DEEP BLUE head on over to the main forum with them.

Last edited by hardr0ck68; 07-06-2003 at 03:14 PM.

Tom was the last of a now extinct breed, a breed of players who build a community, a breed of owners who gave to the sport never taking more than what they deserved. I hope to see you at the feild again some day....

The only barrel that does this is the Flatline.
The only bolt that does this is the CooperT bolt.
Both are patented. (The undertow does NOT do this).

I bought my backspin bolt in 1992, and used it for 10 years on a variety of guns. I probobly have more experience then anyone. What I've learned is that it increases maximum range about 100 feet. It also increases point-blank range, but reduces accuracy, so effective range is decreased.
Its also more paint senstive, which makes it unsutable for tournaments.

What about the Werm bolt (or whatever it is) for Impy's. My freind has one and he thinks its "pimp".

Just wondering if those have a patend on them yet. When I shot it with a 2 tone ball, you could see it backspinning, and it did seem to work to some extent. I forgot what type of barrel he was using, must have been a larger bore.

Both the werm and undertow don't generate enough backspin to generate magnus. There is a certain threshold in order to create lift and reduce drag.

But, they don't claim to create magnus. They claim to only produce a small backspin in order to create a gyroscopic force. The theory is that a slight backspin would make the ball less likely to curve. Kinda like a rifled bullet. But bullets need an extremely fast spin to stablize, to it seems like alot of bunk.

I've never seen the ZIPP though. But from what I've read, it seems like an exact copy of the CooperT better bolt.

ZIP IT BOLTS

WE DESIGNED THE BOLTS TO GIVE SOME LIFT AND XTRA VELOCITY.NOT BACKSPIN.It is almost impossible to give a paintball backspin.We have sold a lot of the Zip it bolts for the Angels and have had no problems with any of them being bad or not doing what we said they wouldd do.We only have made a handfull of Autococker bolts made,because they were to hard to make.because they were to long to machine.In the future they will be assembled in three pieces's.So we can make them for all cockers by changing the middle part to compinsate for the different lenghts.We have also made a Impulse bolt that is going to be better than any bolt made.We did some testing on it.We shot a hopper and 2 pods of paint with it and it only used about 500 to 600 psi.It also os very consistant at the chrono.This is achieved by the design of the air inlet.The hole is cut at a 45 degree angle to give the air a pamped effect.This helps in making the air flow much smoother.Thats why it is so consistant at the chrono.We think the holes in the bottom of the bolt does very little,but we think they do cause the air to be not so turbulant when shooting .????Al we know is If Rocky Cagnoni will use one of our bolts ,we must be doing something right.Rocky is the first baller to try out our bolts.He usd one at the last 2 world cup events.He also said ,and i quote"THIS IS THE MOST AIR EFICIENT BOLT I HAVE EVER USED"end quote...Our website has been down for some time know before the article came out in APG.It will be up soon.We have lcd and irs bolts in stock.And some pre 2000 cocker bolts.As for the under tow bolts ,never seen one so ours can not be a knock off,thank you.

James Martin
z.i.p.p.

IF YOU CANT HIT IT, YOU MUST Z.I.P.P. IT....
www.regulatorsoutpost.com
www.theangelguy.com
www.myzippit.com
I GOT MY PIC TAKEN WITH THE ANIMAL PAINTBALL GIRLS AT WORLD CUP!!!WOW!!!A YELLOW JAKET,A BUTTERFLY,A FAIRY AND A BEETLE...

Re: ZIP IT BOLTS

Originally posted by GRAY SKULL WE DESIGNED THE BOLTS TO GIVE SOME LIFT AND XTRA VELOCITY.NOT BACKSPIN.It is almost impossible to give a paintball backspin.We have sold a lot of the Zip it bolts for the Angels and have had no problems with any of them being bad or not doing what we said they wouldd do.We only have made a handfull of Autococker bolts made,because they were to hard to make.because they were to long to machine.In the future they will be assembled in three pieces's.So we can make them for all cockers by changing the middle part to compinsate for the different lenghts.We have also made a Impulse bolt that is going to be better than any bolt made.We did some testing on it.We shot a hopper and 2 pods of paint with it and it only used about 500 to 600 psi.It also os very consistant at the chrono.This is achieved by the design of the air inlet.The hole is cut at a 45 degree angle to give the air a pamped effect.This helps in making the air flow much smoother.Thats why it is so consistant at the chrono.We think the holes in the bottom of the bolt does very little,but we think they do cause the air to be not so turbulant when shooting .????Al we know is If Rocky Cagnoni will use one of our bolts ,we must be doing something right.Rocky is the first baller to try out our bolts.He usd one at the last 2 world cup events.He also said ,and i quote"THIS IS THE MOST AIR EFICIENT BOLT I HAVE EVER USED"end quote...Our website has been down for some time know before the article came out in APG.It will be up soon.We have lcd and irs bolts in stock.And some pre 2000 cocker bolts.As for the under tow bolts ,never seen one so ours can not be a knock off,thank you.

James Martin
z.i.p.p.

If Rocky uses it, then it must be good I wonder where he hides his gun dyno?

honestly, if you want to clear this whole mess up, you should take an angel, and bothe the zip and a another bolt with the same flow characteristics and test them both. and to make the test as accuret ( really bad spelling) as possible simply fire a loader of shots, change bolts, and fire another loader of shots. If you really want to get it down then try using a large bore barrel and some small paint like severe or evil.

Yes... but if companies started doing side-by-side tests to prove there claims..... well... Many would be out of business. *cough* smart parts *cough*

The basic nature of paintball is a very hype-driven atmosphere. Maybe the zip bolts work, but he says the CooperT ones don't, which I HAVE tested against normal bolts, and they work fabulous (under ideal conditions).

CHECK THIS OUT

If you can find the issue of ACTION PURSUIT GAMES Magazine there is an article about mid ways of the magazine on our bolts...Which i might say was a very good article/testing.Or you can call Mondo at ANIMAL PAINTBALL and ask him how well they work.I almost forgot the issue.JULY of 2003 APG

test done on our bolt, its long

NEW CYCLEFLOW BOLT
Overall Impressions:
I purchased the bolt directly through James, the owner of Z.I.P.P. and the creator of the bolt. He gave me several color choices to pick from: yellow, blue, red, green, black, etc. I’m a huge fan of yellow and although it doesn’t match my black LCD I can’t go against my passion for yellow.
The bolt pin was snuggly drilled; it had no wobble, no wiggle and aligned perfectly with my ram stroke when adjusted properly. This is not a custom fitted bolt so it slipped inside my breech just nicely.

Field Test:
I allowed myself 4 different days to do the testing, each day having different weather conditions, different paints but all these tests were performed in the same marker. I would shoot 2500rds over a period of 4 days, which encompassed a Saturday & Sunday of two straight weekends. At every chrono string performed during the day, I would reinsert my standard bolt, readjust the ram stroke and snap ring to compare chrono consistency.

Equipment:
The bolt was fitted to a 2001 Black LCD, with an SS hammer. I run my Angel A.I.R. through my Cobra gas thru grip, at 389psi to achieve approximately 280fps. I run a 12v Revolution loader with Intellifeed, however no “rotation” mod is done. Also the ‘standard’ paddles have been replaced with the JMJ Impellers. I also used an Adrenalin High Rise for my feed tube passage. The breech knob is a standard one found on all Angels, set finger tight. Unfortunately my marker has been used extensively already so I was able to show wear on the inside of the breech. I used the following paint selections:
2500 rounds of Diablo Hellfire
2500 rounds of Nitro Duck
2500 rounds of Team Colors (winter fill)
2500 rounds of RP Marbalizers (advantage shell)

Each paintball was matched properly to my corresponding bore insert on my freak barrel set. I used the following inserts:
.685 for Hellfire
.689 for Nitro Duck
.691 for Team Colors
.6875 (stock barrel) for the Marbalizers

Day One:
The first day onto the field was at 9:15am and my “test” lasted until approximately 11:55am. I tested the Nitro Duck paint first, and varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 67.5 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 44 degrees, winds out of the NW at 5mph and a relative humidity of 55%.
Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 9:22am I chrono checked my marker at 280fps, with an input pressure of 385psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 88psi. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 14 and my Dwell at 15 to compensate slightly for the colder weather. No breaks on the bolt face, no breaks in the barrel.
I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 75.6 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 14 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 7bps and recorded no bolt face breaks and 3-barrel breaks. Upon further review it was confirmed that no breaks were the result of the bolt, most likely due to a barrel insert issue.
I then went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 173 paintballs that had been left in the garage for 3 months and were odd shaped, dimpled, and no where near optimum quality. They had been stored for at least 2 months in sub 50-degree temperature and were most likely exposed to moderate humidity or dry cold air. I varied my shooting from 12bps to 5bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 2-barrel breaks, and one bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke on the bolt face, as there was a slight residue on the bolt face, in the chamber area and more extensive residue inside the insert. However, the bolt did not chop a single paintball.
For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 15 dwell (once again due to colder weather) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 4fps to approximately 285fps. I lowered my AIR input pressure by 6psi, to 379psi and recorded a 279fps chrono reading. After 1500 paintballs I recorded 2 barrel breaks with the older paint, 1-barrel break with the room temperature paint and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 1 out of 1873. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, one of the room temp. paint and the other of the warmer temp. paint) and now boasted a 1 out of 2123 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed minor to no wear on the breech (from what I could tell) and on the actual bolt.

Day Two:
The second day onto the field was at 1:40pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 3:25am. I tested the Team Color paint second, and varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack,’ once again. I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 65.8 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 52 degrees, winds out of the S at 4mph and a relative humidity of 37%.
Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 1:53pm I chrono checked my marker at 273fps, with an input pressure of 378psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 90psi. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 16 and my Dwell at 14 readjusted for variable results. No breaks on the bolt face, 2 breaks in the barrel.
I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 84.3 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 13 and my MROF to 12. I emptied my hopper at 9bps and recorded 1 clean bolt face breaks and 1-barrel break. Upon further review it was confirmed that the paint had swelled enough to where it was just too delicate for my low dwell and present ROF.
I then went for a more extensive ‘field test,’ once again to be fair. I loaded up my hopper with 167 paintballs that had been left in a meat locker for 7 hours and were almost frozen solid. They had been stored at about 30 degrees for at least 3 hours. I varied my shooting from 11bps to 4bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded zero barrel breaks, and one bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke on the bolt face, as there was no residue on the bolt face, in the chamber area and residue in the forward breech area. However once again, the bolt did not chop a single paintball.
For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 15 dwell (once again due to colder weather and now due to nearly frozen paint) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 2fps to approximately 275fps. I raised my AIR input pressure by 8psi, to 386psi and recorded a 277fps chrono reading. After 1500 paintballs I recorded 1 barrel break with the frozen paint, and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. Now my bolt face break ratio was 2 out of 3740. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, one of the frozen temp. paint and the other of the warmer temp. paint) and now boasted a 1 out of 3990 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt did not show anymore wear on the breech (from what I could tell) and on the actual bolt.

Oil Test:
Between the second and third shooting session, a lapse of five days took place. The entire bolt was sprayed with Gold Cup lubricant and absorbed for 30 minutes then wiped dry. I let the bolt sit for another 30 minutes at 87.2 degrees to dry the bolt as well as attempt to simulate bolt swell.
The bolt was then “re-installed” and the marker was cycled 2500 times at 390psi with no paint. The bolt never seized in the marker but showed slightly darker marks on the front quarter. Upon opening the breech the bolt clearly had swelled inside to impair movement but to enough to prevent.

Day Three:
The third day onto the field was the following weekend at 2:40pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 4:00pm. I tested the RP Marbalizer with the advantage shell and once again varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 68.1 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 55 degrees, winds out of the SE at 6mph and a relative humidity of 70%.
Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 3:00pm I chrono checked my marker at 252fps, with an input pressure of 365psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 89psi. I purposely decided to shoot a lower fps rating to show results in at a slower velocity, as some indoor fields have 250fps limits. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 13 and my Dwell at 14 as compensation was not necessary. No breaks on the bolt face, 1 break in the barrel.
I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 55 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 12 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 9bps and recorded no 1-bolt face break and zero barrel breaks. Upon further review it was confirmed that the break was a the result of the bolt, most likely due to the fact that my dwell was short abnormally low.
I raised my dwell back to 14ms and then continued with my routine and went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 191 paintballs that had been stored at room temperature but had been exposed to the atmosphere for 48 hours prior to testing. I varied my shooting from 14bps to 3bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 1-barrel breaks, and zero bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke in the barrel, however it was most likely due to a slight swollen paintball.
For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 14 dwell (no compensation for weather) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 2fps to approximately 255fps. I lowered my AIR input pressure by 7psi, to 357psi and recorded a 244fps chrono reading. After 1500 more paintballs I recorded 1-barrel break with the room temperature paint and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 1 out of 1873. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, each of the room temperature paint) and now boasted a 2 out of 6131 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed no wear on the breech (from my last test, after the oil test) and on the actual bolt.

Day Four:
The fourth and final day on the field was at 1:30pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 3:15pm. I tested the Diablo Hellfire and once again varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 73.6 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 44 degrees, winds out of the W at 3mph and a relative humidity of 70% with a slight drizzle.
Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 1:45pm I chrono checked my marker at 283fps, with an input pressure of 390psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 90psi. I concluded my testing session with arguable the best paint on the market, stored at optimum temperatures for optimum performance. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 15 and my Dwell at 14 as I was looking to produce game time results. No breaks on the bolt face, zero breaks in the barrel.
All 2500 Hellfire paints were kept at 73.6 degrees, away from any humidity, moisture or the atmosphere. I lowered my dwell to 13 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 10bps and recorded zero bolt face breaks and zero barrel breaks.
I raised my dwell back to 14ms and then continued with my routine and went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 184 paintballs that had been stored at optimum temperature prior to testing. I varied my shooting from 13bps to 2bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 2-barrel breaks, and zero bolt face breaks. I’m thinking the result of the barrel breaks was because the paintball was just a bit too big for the insert. For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 14 dwell (no compensation for weather) and unloaded approximately 1150 paintballs at various angles. After the first 800 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had stayed exactly at the same chrono string from the morning, 283/282fps. I didn’t adjust my AIR one bit and enjoyed the excellent consistency. After 950 more paintballs I recorded 1-barrel break with the paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 2 out of 8615. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, each of the room temperature paint) and now boasted a 2 out of 8865 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed a bit of wear on the breech (from my last test) and a few marks from the ball detente.

Backspin Bolt?
When one looks at the design of the bolt you immediately notice the offset location of three holes on the bottom of the bolt face. So clearly the question raised is: “What do those do?” From my thorough testing I did not determine whether or not my bolt’s design created backspin or even increased distance. Although the bolt design did not deter performance and the entire bolt was machined extremely well.
I could not visually see a distance gain per shot, but precision measurements were not taken per shot grouping. I will let you decide if the bolt really adds distance, it will at least spark a conversation with other players at the field!