The dually is an overkill, but that is what was available in great condition and a good price in 2003. I used it for work and to pull my 31 footer. Setup transfers correct amount of weight to the front wheels. My wife can drive it in heavy wind and truck traffic. She did not like getting pushed around, when we used our former 3/4 window van. Damage to any trailer is proportional to how much you abuse it. High speeds on poor roads are a killer. Reduce your speed to match the road conditions.

Did some wheel well measurements, then took the weight distribution up one link. Putting more weight on the front axle did the trick. Smoother ride overall, and much more stable. Steering feels firm and positive...less "floaty".

Did some wheel well measurements, then took the weight distribution up one link. Putting more weight on the front axle did the trick. Smoother ride overall, and much more stable. Steering feels firm and positive...less "floaty".

Completely different towing experience!

That's great, but since you changed the angle of the bars and the cams, don't forget to make the anti-sway system work correctly, you must readjust the cams to be certain they are centered in the "saddles" of the bars. Without doing this, the anti-sway simply does not work well on the Reese DC.

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.

Believe me when I say they must be readjusted. Visually checking for center is not good enough. They can be off a few thousands of an inch, and the sway control will not work as it should. Been there, done that, several times over, got the T shirt.

Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?

Read the thread, Steve. Thanks...I think I see what you are talking about. My hitch is the older style with the adjustable saddle on the tension spring, but I think loosening that and doing the adjustment you suggest will do the same thing. Is there a different procedure for that style?

The older style is much easier, and yes after going in a straight line, stopping with the trailer brakes, just loosen the "U" bolts and the cams will immediately go into place. The older style hitch is much easier to adjust. Sorry, I assumed you had the new style, but never the less, they both need the cams adjusted after you change the bar loading.

Sounds like you have the damping you need. Glad you got it figure out. I expect that with the cams not in the correct position that it would actually make it more unstable.

Perry

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomS

Thanks, Steve..

After turns to left and right, then straight for 100 yds, then stopped w trailer brakes only, the cams were right in the middle of the saddle. This is the Reese setup process, as I understand it. The cams may not have been centered with the old setup, however. This is our first AS, and we have only had it a few weeks...still getting the hang.

Didn't mention it before, but I'm an engineer, so I treated this like a stability experiment. Starting at 50 mph, and in 5 mph increments: sudden wheel inputs left, right and both ways...tried to get a 6 in or more departure. In all cases, sway was damped in less than 1 full cycle. Did it up to 70, which is faster than I tow. (Not big wheel inputs, mind you, just enough to get things moving!)

Interesting that prior to the change, I would get 4-5 cycles, with distinct steering input back through the steering wheel. The extra weight on the steer axle got rid of all that completely.