Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:

Password

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:

Confirm Password:

Email Address

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:

Insurance

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

User Name

Remember Me?

Password

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options

Miscellaneous Options

Automatically parse links in text

Automatically embed media (requires automatic parsing of links in text to be on).

Automatically retrieve titles from external links

Topic Review (Newest First)

11-12-2012 09:01 PM

hcompton

Quote:

Originally Posted by bygddy

I work in the serv dept at an import dealer so we have accounts everywhere, but primarily deal with bensons who does stock many hi-po after market parts at their Cornwall store, will check into it more tommorow.

Yeah jegs tries to be the lowest advertised among the big compaines. I checked online my self that does look like the best deal going.

11-12-2012 08:56 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by hcompton

440 for a flat cam does seem very high. Dont pay retail. Somone will sell it cheaper. Even if you have to call them and beg for dealer price someone will give you some kind of discount if you talk nice to them. That just seems to steep. Like the suggested retail price they never use in the store. Try jegs if nothing else.

I work in the serv dept at an import dealer so we have accounts everywhere, but primarily deal with bensons who does stock many hi-po after market parts at their Cornwall store, will check into it more tommorow.

11-12-2012 08:53 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Is that price from the US? UPS or US mail?
how much was the UPS broker fee? US mail service- Canada post is a lot cheaper. You pick it up at your local post office.
Usually a shoppers drug mart nearest your house.

Did you try sourcing that cam and the lifters locally?
Starting at your local CTC parts counter. (you'd be suprised)
Next stop would be your local auto machine shop thats hooked up with Motorstate.
They can get all this stuff. pays to shop around.

You won't need to take any gear out of the car. just put the good Isky valve springs on, when you are ready to do that.
It will rpm and MPH for you. Thats the whole idea of the solid cam. The 4.11's are just right.

That was jegs, shipped to my door....with lifters....I have an account with Bensons who deals with keystone, they can get anything overnight, I will price out through them tommorow....but I have compareded in the past and generally i order a bunch of sht at once so jegs winds up cheaper....ordering one thing like this I'm not sure tho so I will see tommorow.

11-12-2012 08:46 PM

hcompton

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Is that price from the US? UPS or US mail?
how much was the UPS broker fee? US mail service- Canada post is a lot cheaper. You pick it up at your local post office.
Usually a shoppers drug mart nearest your house.

Did you try sourcing that cam and the lifters locally?
Starting at your local CTC parts counter. (you'd be suprised)
Next stop would be your local auto machine shop thats hooked up with Motorstate.
They can get all this stuff. pays to shop around.

You won't need to take any gear out of the car. just put the good Isky valve springs on, when you are ready to do that.
It will rpm and MPH for you. Thats the whole idea of the solid cam.

440 for a flat cam does seem very high. Dont pay retail. Somone will sell it cheaper. Even if you have to call them and beg for dealer price someone will give you some kind of discount if you talk nice to them. That just seems to steep. Like the suggested retail price they never use in the store. Try jegs if nothing else.

11-12-2012 07:26 PM

bygddy

Ignore the grime...here's the exhaust from top down
And then to the side, you can see the spiral flow welded in just after the elbow...then its straight to the back and no baffles

11-12-2012 06:00 PM

bygddy

Cars up on jack stands now so i will snap some picks of my current exhaust and see what you think....

11-12-2012 05:58 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Or you can do a simple cylinder head swap to a low cr 76+cc home ported low buck 920-441-487 GM smogger head (people throw these out too)
and bolt on a 177 weiand blower. 550+hp on your near stock short block, cast pistons and all, with that lunati cam. A fraction of the cost of your "real motor" Because the engine compression ratio will be a low 7.5:1 (80cc heads -15cc stock dished pistons) and combustion is always under control the cast pistons never get into trouble.
The stock short block will take silly silly power as long as combustion is controlled and normal.

That's actually the current plan and what I'm saving up for. The used motor I picked up I'm going to go with some cheapish forged slugs, stock crank and rods, arp through out, and find a set of heads cheap and bolt on a blower....likely take some gear out of it due to the giant torque curve and go run 11's for very little cash......but for now, I'm going to use that lunati you listed, I priced it today and shipped to my door I'm looking at 440$ taxes in with lifters....so that kinda sucks lol....but I know there are some places I can't cheap out on. I hope to hell cam and converter with a 275 drag radial gets me a 12 anything lol....then I will spray it into a high 11 and be happy as a pig in sht...!

11-12-2012 05:05 PM

hcompton

You may be able to get away with 1 7/8 primaries on same style headers. They usally sell them a little larger than what is listed in the catalog. Just make sure your first bend is mandrel bent 3 inch then reduce will help alot with budget exhuast. Not sure how good what you have already. But you can see what i mean about the bend after the header being a large diameter to allow for good flow.

I love the look of side pipes but damn there are times when they sound bad. You have to drive with both windows down or the car sounds aweful. Unless they are quiet and balanced with cross over. Its better to have full on exhuast. Flowmaster probably makes a kit that is bolt on and will make almost as much power as open headers. Also a parts list to this kit may reveal that you only need a few custom pipes and the rest can be off the shelf pipe. But not sure about c3.

Also for 600 bucks a local muffler shop may build you a full 3" exhuast welded on and ready to last a ruff winter. Once you get to that amount of cash some shops wont let you walk out the door some will tell you 1500 just got to shop around.

11-12-2012 04:40 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Is this the header you have? These are under $200

Hedman #68280

No, I have flowtechs that stop right at the top of my oil pan. Then it goes to 3" mandrel bent to the sidepipes, 3.5 spiralflows, and 3" to the rear tire....I would love a set of these or equivalent but not sure if these will perform how I want

Lol.....I have the same argument daily at my shop with one of my apprentices....he runs procomp alum on his regal with a 355 roller cam.......I have looked through the notes on his build. And he is sitting around around 10.2 compression as it sits. So his next genius idea is a 4-71 blower.....wich I love the idea, just not with his compression, or his little 670 vacuum sec Carb. He was all bashing my junk yard stuff today....and I tried to explain, that without race gas, his compression is going to be too high to utilize the blower for what it can actually do. By the time he takes enough timing and boost out of it to stop it from eating itself. I'm still going to be faster on junk or used parts....his 700 trans, his 373 gear....its a great fair ground cruiser....and his procomps are not newer better style, they are a few years old when flow and quality control was worse then it is today.....ohhhh....I can't wait till spring lol.

11-12-2012 01:53 PM

hcompton

Ap27 a lot of ppl use the 58 cc heads to make good power. I have herd that a 2.02 valve upgrade and good port work is almost as good as ported humps. The extra compression ratio makes up for a little less flow. Of course a set of 210 cc heads would be make some much bigger numbers and in a vette it will be usable power since its a light car geared and good stall. Too small a cam would also suck.

Gtech is not bad at all. Just got to be fully mounted in the car and not wobbly. Also use the gtech at the track then you will have something to compare once that is done you will find the gtech very accurate tool to test upgrades. It may be off a little but it should be off the same everytime. I have used them and found them to be dead on once compared to track and finding it was always 3 mph off. Timer is very accurate and is good way to do road testing. Iphone apps wprk too but they are not as accurate as the gtech or other real deal solutions on the market.

Never used the vericon but have used a radar gun turns out cops see someone on the side of the road with a radar gun they tend to stop and ask alot of questions just as you come flying past. LoL which can lead to my second peice of useful adive about the wind from your car blowing a state troopers hat off.

11-12-2012 01:24 PM

ap72

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

And AP72 is going to get out the credit card and ship you a shiny new set of AFR
Eliminators, for Christmas... cause he wants to see you use a better head....

No, he's a pretty tight-assed SOB, I wouldn't count on any donations.

However, there are some better heads on craigslist and can usually be picked up for less than $100 a set.

Vortecs, camel humps, converted LT1s, etc.

Then there's the import head market.

11-12-2012 12:41 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The limiting factor will be the shorty block hugger style headers,,, not the heads.

For the record, earlier in the summer I had run it on one of those gtech dyno things, I'm aware they aernt super accurate, but they repeatedly had me at 112mph and one at 114 which I know is horsesht and not accurate....but how close they are I don't know. 5mph high from what I can find on the interwebs from other users, which would put me near 107mph....still seems high....but till the track opens it is what it is. And yah, I know the headers are not ideal.....and will likely get changed at some point for an under car system, or a real hooker long tube sidepipes style.....

11-12-2012 12:30 PM

bygddy

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The MPH from a drag strip pass will tell the tale of how well the heads are working.
Even a MPH with the cam he's got now. The nice thing about the Lunati cam
is after the initial novelty has worn off,,, you can and will still enjoy driving the car, two years down the road,
with this Lunati solid street cam in it. (as well as easily reach the performance goals and GLH)
Its a sweet street cam. It will have a really sweet sound at idle.

If his initial effort on these heads comes up short there is nothing stopping him from removing them,
removing the valves and doing some more port work on them to sweeten them up.
Most people don't go far enough when porting stock SBC heads. You cannot make them too big short of grinding right thru a
port wall ,but you can overlook key areas deep in the ports. people tend to go for the easy to reach parts that looks impressive
The port flange opening and the bowl under the valve. "pocket port" "port match"
and buy into the oooo don't port too much, you'll screw them up, camp. This causes them to not get the whole port right. This is what limits the outcome.
Not going far enough. You can fix that.

Heads will be coming off regardless, and yes, I absolutely went deep into the port, and wasn't shy at all, I was more then a little concerned I was going to punch through something lol....but once they are off I will revisit my work and if more is needed then I have nothing but time. OK, I'm going to start back at page one and look at the lunati again. At this point I have not enough experience to assume I know what I'm talking about when it comes to cam choice with these heads..and I know you do know what your talking about.

11-12-2012 11:29 AM

ap72

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Am I really agreeing w/you on something? Weird feeling. It wouldn't be my choice if he was to swap to decent aftermarket heads later though, so at least there's that.

Well the heads are the obvious limiting factor here, and I think F'bird has more confidence in the OP's "ported 305 heads" than I do. Doing a good job of porting those heads to get you at least 230cfm and a 175+ cc runner volume takes a LOT of time even if you know what you're doing.

If they're as bad as I think they might be even the 401A3 cam is too big.

I'd like to see a better set of heads used, but it is what it is.

This thread has more than 15 replies.
Click here to review the whole thread.