Gourmet Vegetarian Fare At Six Main

Bargain Bites

Six Main, 6 Main St., Chester; 860-322-4212

February 28, 2013|By DANA ASTMANN, Special To The Courant, The Hartford Courant

The food at Six Main is outstanding. And it's made almost entirely from plants. The dishes themselves sound like simple, hearty fare: chowder, pasta, meatloaf, gelato. But some culinary alchemy transforms raw veggies into pasta and avocado into ice cream. There's no fish in the chowder, no meat in the meatloaf. You might not even notice what your food is missing unless you ask.

THE VIBE: The modern American setting is not what you might expect for a vegetarian restaurant. But the food is every bit as sophisticated as the setting suggests. Six Main serves vegan, vegetarian, and raw cuisine in what was once the Chester Savings Bank, built in 1902 along the Pattaconk River. Outside, the carved words "savings bank" are still evident underneath the bank clock. Inside, the high ceilings, arched windows, and pendant lighting allow the building's origins to shine through. The decor is restrained yet comfortable, with the focus on architectural details rather than fussy decoration. The indie-folk music is much like the overall atmosphere: quietly hip, both mellow and contemporary.

All the staff are warm and knowledgeable, ready to answer questions or recommend their favorite dishes. When two diners wanted share an entree, the waitstaff kindly offered to split the plate. And when we ran out of items to dip into the goat cheese fondue (an appetizer special that day), they immediately offered to bring more bread.

The menu relies on seasonal items, many coming directly from Upper Pond Farm in Old Lyme, and changes frequently. On a cold January night, a cup of sea vegetable chowder ($5) took off the chill, with fingerling potatoes nesting among tender shreds of savory sea palm. The vegan "meatloaf" ($19) with homemade barbecue sauce is is the perfect comfort food on a winter evening. It's served with mashed root veggies, tender green beans, and perfectly crisp onion rings.

The molé enchilada ($18) stands out even among such excellent company. Mushrooms and root vegetables are wrapped in tender cabbage leaves, topped with flavorful molé sauce and pepitas, and served atop quinoa and black beans. Other favorites include the pan-seared polenta, topped with mushrooms, white bean and tomato ragout, broccoli rabe, and pumpkin seed pesto ($19); and the raw tostada, featuring salsa, guacamole, and cashew crema on a sundried tomato and flax tostada shell ($17).

It's easy to fill up on the sizeable (and lower-priced) appetizers, perhaps a plate of vegan nachos ($12) or a grilled pizza ($13). The poached egg and warm potato salad ($12) was generous and filling, not to mention tasty: tiny, tender potatoes piled with frisée, served with truffle mustard vinaigrette, walnut "chorizo," and smoked paprika aioli. There's also a New England chopped salad (apple, walnut, avocado, celery, red onion, and peppercorn dressing, $9) and a grilled Caesar salad ($10).

If you're thirsty, browse the extensive wine list, replete with organic and sustainable selections. Or indulge in one of the sophisticated cocktails, like the delectable burnt sage martini ($12) or the ginger gimlet ($10).

Save room for dessert. The dark chocolate pot du crème ($8), topped with fig hazelnut compote, is rich enough that you might never guess it's made with avocado and cashews instead of eggs and cream. And the orange juniper berry creamsicle ($7), topped with caramel sauce and pomegranate seeds, is a marvel of vegan wizardry.

THE BILL: A cup of soup is the best bargain at $5 (a bowl is $9). Appetizers run $9–$13, and mains are all under $20. The starters are substantial, and main courses are downright hearty. Keep an eye out for occasional prix fixe menu specials. A recent offering, which including three courses and one wine pairing, was only $25 per person.