Bring the Happy

It has begun. Talk of who is bringing what, where we’ll buy the turkey, what kind of pies I’ll make, early morning texts concerning brussels sprouts. There’s no getting around it: Thanksgiving is on its way. And with it comes the inevitable reflecting back and thinking about what we’re thankful for. And about traditions. The funny thing about traditions is that they exist because they’ve been around for a long time. Year after year after year. But then, one Thanksgiving maybe there’s something new at the table. I think as you get older this idea of traditions changing can become more noticeable. And with two grown sisters, it’s inevitable that the holidays are going to start looking different sooner rather than later. This year we have a new addition, and my sister Rachael is actually doing all of the cooking while my mom has a much-deserved break. A few family friends will join us for the first time, and Zoe and I are scheming up a very un-Thanksgiving like dessert. Newness abounds. But there are old, important traditions, too. The way my mom and Cathy talk early in the morning about how long to leave the turkey in (after 30 some-odd years of doing it on their own, I’m certain they know, but it wouldn’t feel like Thanksgiving morning without the obligatory check-in), the Thanksgiving cocktail (thank you, Zoe), three onion casserole for Stefan, and the evening walk with the dogs after dinner.

It’s always kind of a chaotic, haphazard walk that begins with everyone lumbering around the house locating jackets and scarves and basketballs they may wish to bounce along the way. Dogs are leashed, dogs bark, and there’s inevitably someone who — right around this point–drops out of the walk and volunteers to do the dishes instead. On these walks I’ll sometimes turn around and look back and see “cousins” Kelsey and Elliot who have grown up before my eyes, the dogs who have slowly aged throughout the years, and the usually constant but little-bit-rotating crew of dinner guests — everyone’s shadows in the night. Well-fed, together: That brings the happy.

I recently discovered a sweet blog, Remedial Eating. In talking about her family’s Halloween this year, blog writer Molly Hays said, “And that’s when I remembered the important thing about traditions, that they’re only as good as the happy they bring. And sometimes that looks like repeating what was. And sometimes that looks like forgetting all that.” Both are important: remembering what was and keeping it if it works, but not being afraid to ditch it if it doesn’t. And welcoming the new with anticipation. This year there will be familiar happy and new happy, and I couldn’t be happier about both.

An appropriate recipe to share with you today is a pie. It’s part traditional and part completely new and innovative. I first saw it while flipping through the pages of Food and Wine while house-sitting for my mom a few weeks back, and knew it needed to happen. At its core, it’s a simple custard pie infused with apple cider, cloaked in a layer of lightly-spiced whipped cream and thin slices of baked apples. If you’re looking for a new Thanksgiving dessert, this could be a contender. If you’re set on a traditional apple pie, I might urge you to give this one a spin. You never know when a new tradition could be born.

Apple Cider Cream Pie

Yield: One 9-inch pie

The pâte brisée recipe yields enough for 2 9-inch pies, so you can go ahead and freeze the second disk for future use. Without the whipped cream, the pie will keep for 2-3 days in the refrigerator. Once you put it all together it’s really best the day of although the second day is o.k., too.

Ingredients

1 disc pâte brisée

2 cups apple cider

3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 teaspoon salt

pinch nutmeg

4 large eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 red apple

Instructions

Prepare the pie shell: Scatter flour across your work surface and roll out the dough to roughly an 11-inch round (don’t stress too much to get it exact). Lay it into a 9-inch glass or ceramic pie plate and trim any overhand that exceeds 1 inch from the rim. Fold under and crimp. Chill in the refrigerator until quite firm, about 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425°. Line the crust with parchment paper and fill with dried beans to weigh down the shell when baking. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the crust is barely set. Remove the parchment and pie weights and cover the edge of the crust with strips of aluminum foil. Bake for about 15 minutes longer, until the crust is just set but not browned. If it starts to puff up, prick a few holes in it with a fork to release the air. Lower the oven temperature to 350°.

Make the custard filling:while the crust is cooking: In a medium saucepan, boil the cider until it’s reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. Whisk in 3/4 cup of the sugar, the sour cream, nutmeg and salt, then whisk in the eggs. Remove the foil strips momentarily, pour the custard into the pie shell, and replace the foil strips.

Bake the pie for 35 to 40 minutes, until the custard is set around the edge but the center is slightly jiggly. Let the pie cool completely.

Prepare the decorative apple slices: While the oven is still hot, slice the red apple very, very thinly. Use a mandolin or work slowly and carefully with a sharp knife. You don’t want your slices to be too thin so as to be transparent, but close. Spray your baking sheet with non-stick spray or very lightly brush the slices with vegetable oil. Bake them until the edges start to curl up and they start to turn golden, roughly 10 minutes.

In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the heavy cream with the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar and the cinnamon until firmly whipped. Spread gently on top of the pie, cut into wedges, adorn with baked apples and a dash of cinnamon on top, and serve. If you’re not serving right away, refrigerate until you are. If there’s pie leftover, refrigerate — it will be great the next day, too.

Ah loved your talk on traditions. I kind of recently had the idea that when I grow up with a family of my own I want to have each Christmas "themed" by countries--like one year have a French spread on the table, another year traditional British treats. A lot of people I tell that to say, "what about tradition?!" but tradition is in there! Just not in serving up the same ham or pie every year.

This pie looks great--saw a similar one on Lottie and Doof too. I really want to try it.

I was eyeing up that pie as a potential Thanksgiving contender too, but think I'm going to try the salted caramel pie from the same story (with a few tweaks, because I can never leave well enough alone!)

I was lucky enough to take over Thanksgiving hosting tradition that merges both my and my husband's families, and though we can never stray too far from turkey/stuffing/potatoes/cranberry, they let me run wild with desserts. :)

megang

November 11, 2011

Kasey: My favorite, too!

Mom: I love you.

Casey: Thankfully, I get to run wild with desserts, too. That's about it, but truthfully I wouldn't have the faintest idea what to do with a turkey. I know exactly which salted caramel pie you're talking about--looks amazing.

Anne and Anna: Thank you (good for breakfast!)

Amy: I LOVE your idea of themed Christmas each year. I think you're right in that it's traditional and new each year. Wonderful.

momgordon

I LOVE Thanksgiving. Everything about it, from our night before decadent bacchanalia with our friend Gwen and cooking a turkey or two the day of along with a tried and true stuffing to sending my husband to the bakery the next day for our own pumpkin pie to have with coffee. I wish you a wonderful happy Turkey Day, Megan!

Your photos are gorgeous and I've got some serious pie envy right now. Our Thanksgiving is long gone, but this pie looks amazing. I'm always a little worried about custard pies, but I'm so curious to try this one.

megang

November 12, 2011

Jeannette-You can seriously do this one. Just make sure to prebake the shell and you can really mess it up. Honestly. I always forget your Thanksgiving is before ours...but I'm now remembering from your blog. Hope you're having a nice, fall weekend!

megang

First off, what a gorgeous pie! It seems so luscious and airy, the perfect ending to a hearty meal. My family also experiments with new renditions of the classics on Thanksgiving. The only thing we've all agreed can never be altered is my mom's stuffing. Your holiday plans sound heavenly -- enjoy every minute of it!

megang

November 13, 2011

Hi Elizabeth-Thanks for your sweet comment! Yes, stuffing seems to be a biggie for people in terms of the way they do it. I always really, really want to love cornbread stuffing or a wild mushroom stuffing and end up just really loving my mom's too. Hope you had a lovely weekend!

Megan, this is such a lovely post on so many levels. As with most people, I have so many memories around Thanksgiving and I love the idea of bringing the happy. We have dishes that are a must on our table and others that can rotate and our guests are VERY clear on which is which. (I will never attempt any other stuffing than Pepperidge Farm for that reason). I'm excited for you in this next phase of your life and the beginning of mixing traditions.

Mary

November 13, 2011

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. I agree with Dana's comment: "such a lovely post on so many levels." I also like the blog you recommended - Molly's blog won me over w/the name alone: remedial eating {at the stove, burning learning} - that's me. Finally, I am very excited about having a Marge Bakery pie on my family's Thanksgiving table.

megang

Hee - "Lovely" is the word that came to my mind, too.
Also, at first glance in my Reader I thought, "ehh, I'm not really interested in making that" but by the end I was thinking, "It looks and sounds so good - I wonder if I could slip it by the Thanksgiving Pie Police?"
Thanks!

i have that food and wine, and i too saw this recipe and wanted to try it! i love seeing your step by steps, think its exactly what i need to actually make it instead of thinking about it. i am all about changing up old standbys this year....i will let you know how it comes out! thank you!

Why I did not think to visit your blog in my moment of crust-making duress is beyond me! You're the second person I know to recommend Ms. Stewart's pate brisee. Hope you have the loveliest Thanksgiving, M! Perhaps someday I can watch you expertly make pie.

I LOVE this post! This is my first year to host my family's Thanksgiving celebration and I wanted to change things up a bit. Some family members weren't too thrilled, but when I asked them if they truly LOVED that green bean casserole recipe and they said "no," they gave me their blessing to bring in some new dishes - yay! This is such a beautiful blog with amazing photography. Thanks for the inspiration!

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Glimpses of Spring

January 5, 2017

We returned home from San Francisco on New Years Eve just in time for dinner, and craving greens -- or anything other than baked goods and pizza (ohhhh San Francisco, how I love your bakeries. And citrus. And winter sunshine). Instead of driving straight home, we stopped at our co-op where I ran in for some arugula, an avocado, a bottle of Prosecco, and for the checkout guys to not-so-subtly mock the outlook of our New Years Eve: rousing party, eh? They looked to be in their mid-twenties and I figured I probably looked ancient to them, sad even. But really, there wasn't much sad (or rousing, to be fair) about our evening: putting Oliver to bed, opening up holiday cards and hanging them in the kitchen, and toasting the New Year with arugula, half a quesadilla and sparkling wine. It wasn't lavish. But it's what we both needed. (Or at least what we had to work with.)
Since then, I've been more inspired to cook lots of "real" food versus all of the treats and appetizers and snacks the holidays always bring on. I made Julia Turshen's curried red lentils for the millionth time, a wintry whole grain salad with tuna and fennel, roasted potatoes, and this simple green minestrone that I've taken for lunch this week. Determined to fit as many seasonal vegetables into a bowl as humanly possible, I spooned a colorful pesto on top, as much for the reminder of warmer days to come as for the accent in the soup (and for the enjoyment later of slathering the leftover pesto on crusty bread).

March 28, 2014

It turns out shopping for wedding dresses is nothing like they make it appear in the movies. Or at least it hasn't been for me. Angels don't sing. Stars don't explode. Relatives don't cry. There isn't a sudden heart-stopping moment that this is, in fact, "the one." To be honest, I always knew that I wasn't the kind of gal for whom angels would sing or stars would explode but I did think I'd have some kind of moment where I could tell I'd found the best dress. Instead, my mom flew into town and we spent three (yes, three!!) days shopping for dresses, and since then I've been back to the stores we visited -- and I'm more undecided than ever. Tomorrow morning I'll return with my friend Keena to try and tie this business up once and for all. Cross your fingers.

May 1, 2013

When I was single and living alone in the Bay Area, I made virtually the same thing for dinner each night. I ate meals quickly while in front of the computer. Or even worse: the television. This most often included what I call "Mexican Pizzas" which were basically glorified quesadillas baked in the oven until crispy. Sometimes, if I was really feeling like cooking, I'd whip up a quick stir-fry with frozen vegetables from Trader Joe's or a mushroom frittata using pre-sliced mushrooms. Mostly, though, it was Mexican Pizzas -- a good four or five nights a week. Today, thankfully, dinner looks a lot different. Meals in general look a lot different. How would I explain that difference? I think that ultimately how we feel about our life colors how we choose to feed ourselves and the importance that we place on preparing our own meals.

April 7, 2016

Today was 75 degrees in Seattle and it seemed the whole city was out and about drinking iced coffee in tank tops and perhaps not working all that hard. When we have a hit of sunshine like this in April (or, really, any time of the year), we're all really good at making excuses to leave the office early -- or, simply, to "work from home." I just got back from LA last night, unpacked in a whirlwind this morning, and took Oliver to meet up with three friends from our parents group at the zoo. The only other time I'd been to the Seattle zoo was once with Sam a few years ago when we arrived thirty minutes before closing and ended up doing a whirlwind tour -- sprinting from the giraffes to the massive brown bear to the meerkat.
The visit today was much different: we strolled slowly trying to avoid the spring break crowds and beating sun. I managed to only get one of Oliver's cheeks sunburned, and he even got in a decent nap. A success of an afternoon, I'd say. Coming home I realized we didn't have much in the fridge for lunch -- but thankfully there was a respectable stash of Le Croix (Le Croix season is back!) and a small bowl of this whole grain salad I made right before I left town. It's the kind of salad that's meant for this time of year: it pulls off colorful and fresh despite the fact that much of the true spring and summer produce isn't yet available. And for that reason, I make a few versions of it in early spring, often doubling the recipe so there's always the possibility of having a small bowl at 1 p.m. while the baby naps in the car seat, one cheek sunburned, windows and back door open -- a warm breeze creeping into the kitchen.

June 24, 2016

On Monday our little family of three is headed to the airport at 6 am to board our first with-baby cross-country trip. We'll be visiting Sam's family in New Jersey for a few days, then renting a car and driving over to meet up with my family at my mom's lake house in the Adirondacks. Sam's younger sister and her kids have yet to meet Oliver; my grandpa has yet to meet him, and Oliver has yet to take a dunk in a lake, see a firefly, or spend quality time with energetic dogs -- of which there will be three. A lot of firsts. This week my family has been madly texting, volunteering to make certain meals or sweets on assigned days while we're at the cabin and it got me thinking about really simple, effortless summer desserts -- in particular, ones that you can make while staying in a house with an unfamiliar kitchen and unfamiliar equipment and still do a pretty bang-up job. I think fruit crisp is just that thing.