I was reading Fred's40 write up on his steering box mod for hydro assist on another thread somewhere in the Marlin site forum, and I'm confused as to where to tap my box. I have an '89 runner and would like to perform the hydro assist mod as well. In another thread that Fred's 40 posted, he added some info done up by a guy named Rick into his thread. Rick's info is as follows and my question are at the end of this info: Re: Hydro Assist:box and pump mods « Reply #28 on: April 17, 2005, 04:55:59 PM »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick posted some info for working the FJ 80 boxes. Here it is borrowed (with Rick's permission) from the Tuki build:

I wanted to abbreviate a few differences in dealing with the FJ80 box. (Its my understanding that the FJ-80 box is also identical to the FJ55/60/62.)

10.) Clean the housing and stuff rags into sector shaft bearings and seals.

11.) Drill and tap housing. Typically on IFS boxes, people tap one hole in the top and then one on opposite side of the TOYODA. But I've found that the top hole is really difficult on the FJ-80 boxes since there appears to be less meat in the top of some of the steering box housings plus you can't drill completely though the box in that location. So what I've see other people do and did myself, was I tapped a hole in the end of the box. Anywhere in the end will work fine.

Hopefully that helps you other guys when dealing with these reverse rotation FJ80 steering boxes.

My question is: 1.) Under # 11 above, Rick states that people typically drill one hole on the top and one on the opposite side of "TOYODA". From everything I have seen on sites dealing with this mod people have been drilling either on the "TOYODA" or as member Fred's40 did just off to the side of it for clearance later if the box needs to be moved forward. So, do I tap the hole on the "TOYODA" side, or do I tap it somewhere on the engine side?

I believe you can tap that Toyoda hole anywhere around the box, as long as it lines up with the D. Its all the same chamber. If you look into the housing where the D would drill into, it will give you an idea where you can tap. Just be careful not to set you thread depth too deep in either hole (especially the top vein hole). Make Sense

being you already have it, i would run it. it should be more than enough for extra capacity. never used something like that, so i'm not really sure if it will cool it enough, but i would guess it would. looks good.

Drilling the restrictor will add volume but really only enough to make a 1.5" ram work well. The drilled restrictor should put out about 2-2.5GPM which is great for a 1.5" ram. The 2" ram works best with roughly 4-4.5GPM.

Drilling the restrictor will add volume but really only enough to make a 1.5" ram work well. The drilled restrictor should put out about 2-2.5GPM which is great for a 1.5" ram. The 2" ram works best with roughly 4-4.5GPM.

In that's case I might have a 2" RAM for sale, I know its overkill but I got an awesome deal. Its now in trade or barter

the way I have done it on 4 different rigs and worked perfect each time is I start by cranking the wheel one direction as far as it will go, til it hits the bump stops. I do this with the engine off so the ram doesn't travel. once the steering is maxed to one side, I fire the engine up, hold the wheel to that side til the ram pushes out/in all the way to that one side. now your ram and you steering are working together. this is where I weld the tab on the tierod.

Thanks for the write up, lots of info. One question I have is how do I know where to weld the mounting tabs on the tierod so the cylinder travels equally in both directions?

Turn the steering whee so the tires point straight forward. Take your ram and pull it out so that half of the ram's travel is showing. Most use a 6" ram so make sure 3" of chrome rod is showing. Make sure your passenger side mount is as far over to the passenger side as possible. I made that mistake once and ended up bending the frame, bump stop brackets, bending a tie rod, and busting the chrome rod out of the ram. Once I got everything fixed, I mounted it closer to the passenger side U bolt plate

Been researching this for a few days. $130 for the home brewed is a heck of a lot better then $200 (PSC ram+hardware) or $1000+ for a complete assist system. Is there a stock pump from another application that can be used for more fluid flow? I'm going to mod my pump but if it starts to whine I'd like a cost effective solution.

Here's the 3/8 plugs, in case you have to block it off. It would probably be wise to buy one extra hose and fittings to have spares (surplus center prices won't kill the wallet)

Ok did hydro but only thing is when Turing left the ram is hitting leaf plate and turned it up and tighten down jAm nuts and it held for a while but when turning it loosened up and goes down and hit plate any ideas??? Fix??

ok. so i got my ram and mounts installed. my question is that lock to lock the ram only gets 5 1/2 ". with my wheels turned full driver it comes out 5 3/4 and turned all the way passenger in is 1/4-1/3 ' shy of going all the way in. Is this OK. Also I don't know it this matters but when turning full passenger I am about 1/4" short of hitting the steering stops.