The R33 has been hibernating since the start of the year. About a month ago I did a minor update to the decoder firmware and couldn't get it to fire up. Suspecting the firmware causing the decoder offset to be wrong I hooked up the timing light and left it until the other day (neglect!). With a trusty helper to hold the timing light it was determined the firmware was not at fault and that fouled plugs were probably the cause. A liberal amount of throttle helped it climb off the starter motor and finally come back to life.

I really need to put this thing on the road and get some datalogs.

It needs some rust work ASAP. Both the rear quarter windows have rust appearing along the lower edge, especially the drivers side. I'm dreading cutting out the glass and finding out what is hiding beneath but better sooner than later. You can see my dodgy patch job to keep the rain off after I had a look under the paint.

And doesn't she just sound glorious? :-D If a little asphyxiating while cold... :-)

Keen to see some progress on this thing. IAT, open loop PWM idle, new code from me, LSD install. That ought to make it pretty livable for the most part.

Once it's livable it'll be a great test bed for various new features and improvements. Even if it's only an evening/weekend warrior :-)

Re the rust, as you know, you have access to both my MIG and my forearms (for the MIG!) so I suggest you sneak it through a WOF when you can, and then we tee up a day to bring it around here, whip the window out, grind up the minor mess that's hiding in there, make up and MIG in some patches, and get some zinc on there to stop the corrosion.

At that point you'll need to get some proper paint made up and then slap it on. So you'll either need to limp it home without the window, or displace the KP60 and leave it here. I guess home with a gap is the best option unless there is a torrential downpour. Once the paint has had some time to set and harden you can urethane the glass back in and put the trim back on. Pain in the arse slow process, so you may as well do both sides the same day, one first, then the other.

I'd suggest waiting for a sunny Saturday/Sunday to do the work around here :-) We can make it a little working bee and I can pull apart, grind up, weld up and zinc prime some bits of the KP, too.

Fired it up again today :-D Was a bit of a bi*** to start, seems like interference from the coils that were misfiring into the cold/fuely/dirty plugs causing it, because as soon as it came right, it was fine. Car has normal plugs in it, so I reckon it should get Iridiums at some point... Hopefully next time it starts up easier with freshly heated/dried plugs from a good little run. So, about that little run... two logs attached, first one cranking attempts, second one same, then running, and warming up, then revving. Screeny of warm up and another of revving:

Weird tstat behaviour on the way up! Seems to open around 65C, or at least get more consistent there. Prior to that it's pretty wobbly. RPM and MAP traces look decently clean and will clean up even more with new code coming soon to an R33 VERY near to you :-)

This thing is now running Penrite 10 tenths inhibitor and water wetter, which claims lower operating temperatures, and weirdly, I saw that in the logs, but I'm not sure there weren't other factors... It's a sort of purple colour, and only protects from corrosion, so isn't suitable for a ski car, but in Auckland, that's all you need, and if it spills on the track, it doesn't make it slippery, which is good.

Also cracked the diff drain bung to make room for some fresh synthetic oil. It can sit for a day or two to let all the old stuff leave.Going to have to acquire and/or rig up some kind of bottle and hose setup to fill the diff. Looks like it will be a bit of contortionist fun to get in between the subframe to the filler hole.

Then had a bit of a look into my ongoing wideband issues. The LC1 analog output seems to be swinging rail to rail in all the logs. It has come right then started doing this again at least twice now.I ripped and then hacked up a firmware to always power on the LC1 as it currently starts it over 700RPM.With that programmed in, I monitored the wideband readings simultaneously in emstudio and the Innovative LogWorks app talking directly to the LC1 via serial port.The reading was railed at ~20.9AFR with the engine off. Plausible i suppose.With the engine on the erratic rail to rail switching behavior began occurring once or twice a second in both emstudio and LogWorks.I guess this shows that the analog output is doing as commanded and the strange behavior is coming from further upstream (sensor or LC1 itself?).

Next maybe I'll open up the LC1 and swap out that ceramic?? cap noted in some other thread on here. See if that helps.

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