These type of "sealed" plastic cases can usually be opened by taking an acetone soaked q-tip and running it around the seam, wait a minute or so, then repeat. It will come apart easily after that. Reseal w a bit of acetone. Sometimes one q-tip treatment works, occasionally more than two.

Blessings,
Holland

2 LEAFS, bought 1 week apart. 2013 S for me, 2013 SV is wife's. Both manufactured May 2013. I lost first bar at 36,000. Wife still has all bars at 50,000.

The next most frequent is that the device paired Ok,
but the connection between the app and the device
is frequently lost, and re-connection is difficult.

1. With the app closed, use the Android system Settings, and tap Bluetooth
to enter the BT management, ready to turn Bluetooth On.

2. "Start" the car and let it get Ready to drive. Turn Bluetooth On in your phone.

3. Then, quickly plug the ELM327 device into the car's OBD connector.
Assuming no BT devices have been discovered or paired, the phone searches
for discoverable BT devices. Otherwise, ask the phone to search.

4. When the phone discovers a new (new MAC address) ELM327-type Bluetooth
device (often called OBDII), it appears on a list, as not yet paired.
Quickly tap the item on the list, enter the pairing code (most often 1234, rarely 0000,
and very rarely 6789), and attempt to pair with the ELM327 device.
If successful, the listing will show paired, but not connected.
If not successful, try to enter the pairing code again.

5. If the second try fails, unplug the ELM327 device dongle and start step 3 again.
Sometimes the pairing must be done within the first few (maybe 30) seconds
after the dongle is plugged in.

6. Successfully paired, you can turn your phone's Bluetooth Off, since
the LEAF Battery app will turn it On when needed.
You can now run the LEAF Battery app and you should see live data
in just a few seconds.

---------
Notes: If you have trouble, try to get with another LEAF Battery app user,
and see their system working on their car, try their system on your car,
try your phone with their ELM327 device, and finally try your ELM327 device again.

The most often problem is a stubborn ELM327-type clone device, even an
"identical" one from the same supplier. Sometimes you will get different
circuitry inside the device, or different firmware, in devices from the same vendor.

Clone firmware 1.5 is to be preferred, I think.
Genuine ELM327 devices have 1.4b as their latest version, I think.

I can't get the 6th point. I make all the process but when I turn the app on, it doesn't connect. It says "connecting 2 ELM" and "searching 4 ELM"......

I can't get the 6th point. I make all the process but when I turn the app on, it doesn't connect. It says "connecting 2 ELM" and "searching 4 ELM"......

you have to enable BT auto connect in settings.

up until recently I had been using my old Motorola Droid on the old LEAF batt app because my Droid Bionic would not stay connected. but recent upgrades seem to have fixed the problem so I went with the LEAF Spy Pro and so far so good but every once in a while I still have issues connecting. a reboot of the phone fixes it 90% of the time. the other 10% is unplugging the ELM

When I was reading these threads and shopping around, I had difficulty sorting out what was "stubby" and what was "short", etc., and could have used some pictures. To that end, I took pictures of the three I bought. I still don't know which is which, but I'm guessing these represent the three smallest (numbers 1-3). I can label them once I know. And you might like to swipe a photo and post it up at the front.

[Edit: Got the sizes confirmed, and labeled the photo.]

Here is a mugshot:

elm_sizes.jpg

Side view for comparison:

elm_sideview.jpg

Standing on their connectors. If the plug bottoms out, this will determine how far they stick out.

elm_inverted.jpg

What I found in my research is that the shortest ones are "24 mm" (hence, an inch) long. This being measured from the back of the plug. The next size up is "37 mm", so, an inch and a half. That last one I bought mainly because it looked large enough to take apart and do hacking on. The "favorite" per discussion on MNL, the SimValley, was listed as "not available" the entire time I was trying to decide. I see it's available again.

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Last edited by gbarry42 on Wed Nov 20, 2013 11:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

And there goes the first capacity bar! At 24,000 mi on 9/9/2013.
Second bar at 30,500 mi on 2/7/2015.

The mini is almost difficult to grab hold of
to remove. The "short" barely sticks out.
The "medium" sticks out noticeably, and
is easy to modify and grab. For my legs
(on a tall guy), it does not stick out far
enough to hit my leg.

Seems to work fine with the Leaf Battery App, has a power switch, and is small enough to plug into the port without being in the way.

No problem pairing with my Android phone.

I haven't determined if the switch is for bluetooth only, or for the whole device.

From the Amazon reviews, it seems like the switch only turns off the Bluetooth.

I've been way too busy to dig into this subject much but what is a relatively cheap and recommended Bluetooth dongle to use? I did find the list at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/wiki/index. ... th_Scanner" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. For me, I'd want it to be able to read real gids, have it automatically turn off when the car is off (to avoid draining the 12 volt) and not be a piece of crap.

My non-primary smartphone is a Verizon Samsung Galaxy S4.

I assemble my own desktop/tower PCs but I'm definitely the wrong guy to ask to do any soldering if the dongle needs to be modified.

(Using the app isn't that important to me. My Leaf is on a 2 year lease, I have the % SoC screen since mine's a '13 and I normally don't really push it, in terms of range.)

I've fooled around with filters (ATCM, ATCF) to try to limit the traffic and I either get "NO DATA" or gibberish with error messages.

I used the ATPPS command to look at the registers and see that C0 is set to 68, indicating that the ELM chip's baud rate is 38400 (assuming the baud rate pin is pulled high). I understand the CAR-CAN bus spews a message every 10 milliseconds, but that's only about 20000 bits per second after translating to ASCII and adding spaces and CR. So that should be OK.

If you don't filter (or don't filter correctly) messages come in a lot faster than 100 per second. True the fastest message is at a 10 msec rate but there are many such messages not just one. I count 10 at that rate (so 1000 per second) plus another 9 at 20 msec (50 per second) (1000 + 450 ) and there are 40 msec, 60 msec, 100 msec and 500 msec messages. So max unfiltered is around 2000 frames per second. Say around 480,000 bits per second if you leave spaces and add in headers so you know what you are getting.

Max rate an OBDII BT/WiFI adapter can handle is around 100-200 frames per second. But you'll need to send only the data you really need (drop the spaces) and have the adapter set correctly. Even at that some Phones will get read errors after a while and lock up the phone's Bluetooth code requiring a phone reboot.

I ran a quick test a few months ago where I swapped out the Bluetooth module for one programmed for 115,200 baud but did not see any real improvement in speed. I need to repeat that test as I now have better tools for stress testing and measuring data and error rate. DO NOT try to change the baud rate yourself as both the ELM327 code and the Bluetooth transceiver must be changed at the same time which is not possible without splitting them up first. If you just use the ELM327 commands to change baud rate you will "brick" your adapter.

I have been testing a WiFi EM327 and although no faster I have not seen the read failure that can lead to locking up the phone's Bluetooth code. They do take more power but some come with a switch that for the one I have drops the power down from 120 ma to a really low 0.5 ma.