For me there is a power, something special about Denali. I don’t really know what it is but Denali is different from any other place I have visited. Perhaps it’s the allure of the mountain but I don’t care to climb it. I want to see it yes, but I have no interest in climbing it or even touching it. Mount McKinley is the tallest mountain in North America at 20,320 and it is still growing taller by about a millimeter a year. Measured from the 2,000 foot lowlands the mountain’s vertical relief is 18,000 feet, which is greater than Mount Everest. Native Alaskans call it ‘the high one’. And if you see it you’ll agree that it is impressive. But actually seeing it may not happen during your visit to Denali. Only about 30% of the visitors to park get to see the entire mountain because it’s usually hidden by clouds. Yes, we saw it, bright, clear, covered in white ice and snow, spectacular, massive, and yes the high one. Denali is different than many of our National Parks in the Lower 48, and many of our state and municipal parks that are being loved to death, over run with far too many people and more vehicles than the facilities can accommodate and poorly maintained. It is very well maintained, at least what I saw. The camping areas are nice, very well designed allowing room for RV’s and tents alike and the sites are level and oriented properly for easy access to the restrooms and their public transportation. Alas, that many of other parks could not have had such foresight.

There are six camping areas in Denali, of which three accept RV’s. As most outsourced campsite reservations systems, these private companies require an advanced three day minimum reservation and charge a reservation fee. We had hoped to camp a little further into the interior at Teklanika River campground which is located 30 miles from the park entrance and is the farthest campground in the park that accommodates RV’s. But to be guaranteed a site, we had to settle for Riley Creek campground near the park entrance or chance a site being available when we arrived, or using a commercial campground outside the park. Riley Creek was very nice but it wasn’t the wilderness we experienced last time at Teklanika. I was impressed that a uniformed Park Ranger walked the camping area in the early evening and invited visitors to the interpretative program that evening. That’s the way it should be done.

The 92 mile long park road into the interior is restricted beyond mile 15. For $34/day, a concession bus tour provides a 66 mile roundtrip ride into the park’s main visitor center and the only way to see Denali unless you want to hike or fly in. By restricting travel to meet certain management parameters and objectives, this destination park is made accessible to the masses of park visitors that seek the grandeur of this park. The bus transportation system is what protects this park from being loved to death and at the same time makes it accessible to everyone. At least a small fraction is accessible to everyone, unless you want to hike into the back country or just off the road a short distance. In places the gravel road is cut into the side of the mountain, it’s very narrow and has sheer drop-offs, and best of all; it affords us opportunities to view wildlife across great expanses of Alaskan wilderness. We enjoyed watching caribou, and several brown bears which are accustomed to the buses and will remain within easy viewing and photographic distances. While at the park’s concession paying for our campsite, I had the opportunity to meet three Rangers working on a maintenance project in front of the concession. Two of the rangers were seasonal and the other permanent. All three were interested in learning about PLEA, and something about our southern parks. They were a pleasure to visit with and I’m sure looking for an alternate placement for the winter season. It was interesting to learn that while the seasonal rangers had housing provided, the other ranger did not. He was renting a small place outside the park that didn’t even have plumbing, and it’s only 150 miles one way to go shopping at Fairbanks! While in the concession I thought I would compare prices of what they were charging for everyday items: six pack of beer was $9.59 and a small bundle of firewood $9.99. Are these reasonable prices to charge park visitors, what do you think?

]]>Tue, 21 Aug 2012 04:15:31 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/alaskan-hwy-whitehorse-yukon-territory-to-tok-alaska This section of the Alaskan Highway is another chapter in an exciting novel. The terrain changes again as we enter and yet again when we exit Whitehorse, the captain of the Yukon Territory. Whitehorse is an interesting city worth spending a few days in to enjoy. The city is on the west banks of the Yukon River and only two hour drive from Skagway Alaska. Don’t miss the SS Klondike National Historic Site when you visit. The focus is on the restored sternwheeler of the same name that plied the Yukon River in the early 1900’s.

This is also the worst section of road in my opinion, but also some of the most spectacular scenery. About 45 miles outside of Whitehorse it started with a gravel road repair project that lasted for several miles. But there are sections, especially in the last 150 miles before crossing the border into Alaska that was much worse. The highway had only been open for a couple of days as it had been closed for four days to repair a wash-out that cut through the road completely.

Soonafter leaving Haines Junction to the west you can see the Ice fields of Canada’s Kluane National Park. It was really exciting to see so much snow and it’s the end of June! Approaching the U.S. boarder to the West are the Wrangell Mountains which are just as captivating. In between the two is a small stop along Lake Kluane called Destruction Bay where the price of fuel decreased to about $5.00 per gallon. Approaching the border you can clearly see the narrow clearing of forest along the face of the mountain running north – south. It’s the 20 foot wide strip cut by surveyors along the 141 meridian to mark the Alaska-Canada border. A short distance after crossing through U.S. Customs at Port Alcan we entered the 730,000-acre Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. Established in 1980 to protect the aquatic habitat of a unique intricate system of marches, lakes, ponds, streams and rivers it is animportant area for 47 species of migrating birds and 143 nesting species including sandhill cranes and nesting trumpeter swans. We had hoped find a camping area accessible for our rig but the refuge apparently only accommodates tent camping in this area. One of the interpretative signs at a scenic overlook reads:

“You are traveling along theroute flown by hundreds of thousands of birds each spring. Some migrate from as far as South America. They return to Alaska to raise their next generation,surrounded by food, with long.

“Trumpeter swans are nesting here in growing numbers, attracted by the refuge’s many secluded ponds. They demand privacy for raising their cygnets and can chase away other nearby birds including loons. About 25 species of birds live in this area all year.”

Through Edmonton, past Whitecourt and Grand Prairie Alberta we entered the foothills of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Not too far into British Columbia is the town of Dawson Creek, which is mile 0 the beginning of the Alaskan Highway. Crossing British Columbia and the Yukon Territory to Port Alcan is the Alaskan border a distance of 1221.8 miles, and another 200 miles to the end of the Alaskan highway in Delta Junction AK. A day and half driving or 477 miles north from Dawson Creek we stopped at Liard River Hotsprings Provincial Park and made camp. A destination we both were looking forward to with anticipation of a relaxing soak in the hot spring. Other than paying about $6.43 per gallon of diesel fuel, this is a great part of the trip. Driving the Alaskan Highway is an exciting part of the journey north to Alaska. The road changes past Fort Nelson. It becomes narrower more mountainous and it’s rough and slow going in many places. Road repair is a continuous process throughout the summer months up here, repairing frost heaves, pot holes, and replacing guard railing. At one such repair construction zone we were stopped and talking with the flag person directing traffic flow. During our conversation I asked “where do you buy your diesel fuel” and after a little mental calculating was told, “about three hours drive north of here, but be careful, some places are charging $1.99 per liter”, which equates to about $7.50 per gallon. With a little chuckle I was asked, “You know what BC means don’t you, it means bring cash.”

Liard River Hotsprings Provincial Park is open year-round and is a favorite recreation spot for locals and visitors alike. The camping area has large spacious sites that are kept clean and well maintained. A short walk from the camping area to the day use area is a trailhead boardwalk across a wetlands area leading to two hot springs, Alpha pool and Beta pool with water temperatures ranging from 108 to 126 degrees. Throughout the marshy wetland it’s reported there are more than 250 boreal forest plants, including 14 orchard species and 14 other species that survive at this latitude because of the hot springs. There is a sign at the trailhead to beware of bears and watch for moose feeding in the wetlands.

Driving along the Alaskan Highway we like to keep count of the wildlife we see each day. Our drive this day from Pink Mountain Camp to Liard Hotsprings we only counted three Black Bears, three Moose, one Elk, but more than forty Rock Sheep. This is a drastic difference from the numbers we had seen in the past along the Alcan. We are wondering if the increased petroleum exploration in the region is the reason why.

We thoroughly enjoyed visiting Theodore Roosevelt National Park, and Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site in North Dakota. While not as popular as many of our National Parks, Theodore Roosevelt NP is one that should be on your‘bucket list’ especially the South Unit. Now it was time for us to cross into Canada on our journey north to Alaska. We crossed the border into Saskatchewan from North Dakota east of the Montana/North Dakota boarder where we visited with family friends for a few days.

About 500 miles northwest of crossing the border in the Town of Battleford we found Eiling Kramer Campground. Very nice and well maintained seasonal campgrounds run by the town’s parks and recreation department. The park even delivers free firewood to your campsite. It has a panoramic view of the North Saskatchewan River Valley and adjoins Fort Battleford National Historic Park. Established in 1876 Fort Battleford was the North West Mounted Police post located in Cree Indian country. Over the next several years the Fort grew in strength to more than 200 Mounted Police and served as the base of operations at Cut Knife Hill and Fort Pitt leading to the surrender of Chief Poundmaker and the search for Big Bear. Within the grounds of the Fort is a mass grave site named “Wandering Spirit’ which contains the remains of eight Indians hanged for murder during the North West Rebellion in1885. Only 2500 more miles to Homer Alaska.

Also known as the “Gateway to the Yukon” located 612 miles north of Dawson Creek is the town of Watson Lake, population 1,563. When we were here last time with our good friends John and Betty we camped at Watson Lake and visited the Sign Post Forest. The Sign Post Forest was started by a U.S. Army Soldier in 1942 while he was working on building the Alaskan Highway. Today it’s reported there are more than 72,000 signs that have been added by travelers from around the world. New 6x6 posts are constantly being added for additional signs each year. Visitors are encouraged to add their sign, which we did with John and Betty last time and had fun locating it this visit. Be creative and add your own sign when you travel through Watson Lake. And let me know if you see our sign. Here is a hint on locating it; you can’t miss it, it contains a patch I think you’ll recognize. During WWII the United States had an arrangement with Russia called the lend-lease program. Approximately 8,000 aircraft were ferried through Canada and Lake Watson was a major refueling stop along the Northwest Staging Route.

]]>Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:23:09 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/fort-union-trading-post-national-historic-siteHaving an interest in the mid-19th century fur trade and Native America history of that time I was thrilled to learn about Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site and that the park was hosting the 30th annual Rendezvous while we were in the vicinity. Fur trade fair, Indian crafts, and historic demonstrations, first person interpretation, we just had to go see this four day special event. Fort Union Trading Post was built by the American Fur Company in 1828 and is reputed to be the most important fur trading post on the Upper Missouri River. It was in business f or almost forty years. The purpose of the Fort was to trade with the Native Americans tribes, mostly Assiniboine people and was actually requested by them to establish a trading post in their territory. As one of the interpreters said to me while I was in the trading room, “what a peaceful time in American history.” The trading post employed about 100 people in various jobs, many requiring multi lingual skills, which reflects upon how busy and successful it was. Even John James Audubon, Sitting Bull, and Jim Bridger visited this post. During this side trip we also visited Fort Buford State Historic Site, the military post that Sitting Bull surrendered at in 1881, and the Masonic Historic Site of North Dakota’s first Lodge. From the state’s Historical Society website: Located one-half mile east of Fort Buford, the Missouri-Yellowstone Confluence Interpretive Center tells the story of the confluence of these two mighty rivers, as well as provides the same magnificent view that Lewis and Clark Expedition members enjoyed when they visited in 1805 and 1806. The rotunda area includes three large murals featuring quotes from the Lewis and Clark Journals, and paintings of the Missouri River landscape by Colonel Philippe Régis de Trobriand, commanding officer of Fort Stevenson near present-day Garrison, N.D. in the late 1860s.]]>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 10:27:36 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/july-05th-2012As we were driving west across the open lands of the North Dakota Prairie, we were amazed at the petroleum development drilling and pumping sites we saw. This is a boom area that is evident by the numbers of trucks, drill rigs, and temporary work camps everywhere. What’s wrong with our truck? It’s not making power much headway, the diesel fuel consumption is down to 8 mpg. When I opened the truck door at the next fuel stop I learned why very quickly, we were driving into a 40mph head wind. But finally the terrain dramatically changed as we emerged into the Badlands of North Dakota and out of the winds blowing across the high prairie. “The Bad Lands grade all the way…to those that are so fantastically broken in form and so bizarre in color as to seem hardly properly to this earth.” Theodore Roosevelt The park is comprised of three units and contains 70,416 acres: The North Unit, the South Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch. We visited both the South and North Units. South Unit: Shortly after clearing the Ranger Station at the town of Medora, on our way to the Cottonwood campground along the banks of the Little Missouri River we saw our first bison of the trip, the first of many during our two day visit to the South unit. Bison were reintroduced to the park in 1956 and Elk in 1985. We were anxious to see the sights and drive the 36 – mile scenic loop drive across the park, so we made camp as quickly as we could. A short drive from the campground we came to Prairie Dog Town inhabited by black-tailed prairie dogs, one of the five sub species of these critters. They were just fun to watch, but we pushed on and thoroughly enjoyed the drive and short hikes we made at Buck Hill, Ridgeline and Wind Canyon Trails. Typical of many favored parks across the country, just outside the gate is the tourist town of Medora, a small western town with a rich history. The town was founded by a French nobleman, Marquis de Mores who had married the daughter of a wealthy New York City banker. But 19 years before that General Alfred Sully fought Sioux Native Americans who had hunted the area for generations. And Lieutenant Colonel George Custer passed through on his way west to the little Bighorn. Most notable tourist to the area of course was Theodore Roosevelt who arrived in 1883 to hunt buffalo which had mostly vanished by then. He claimed to have fallen in love with the area and invested in cattle ranching. He called his years in the Badlands “the romance of my life,” and credited his Dakota experiences with enabling him to become president. We all know that many parks across the country have their beginning with the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s and early 1940’s. Here too, the CCC has left its mark by building roads, and other structures in Theodore Roosevelt National Park and nearby Chateau de Mores State Park.. North Unit: After two days enjoying the South Unit of the Park and the town of Medora we drove about 82 miles that day to reach the North Unit campground and learn that a little more than half of the park’s 14 mile Scenic Drive was closed because the road was washed out. A real-time example of geology in action, erosion has been working its magic here for eons. The geological features of the North Unit appeared to be more extreme, more rugged. One of the coolest critters we encountered was a Bull snake near the Cannonball Concretions formation not far from the campground, and of course several large bison.]]>Thu, 28 Jun 2012 10:30:13 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/itasca-state-park-park-rapids-minnesotaI know you like visiting parks, would you like to see the headwaters of the Mississippi River Tim asked? While we were camping with our friends at Stony Point Campground on Lake Leech we just had to make the side trip to nearby Itasca State Park, the Headwaters of the Mighty Mississippi. A little more than an hour drive away, Itasca State Park lies 1475 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, 2552 winding river miles away. The park is also contains a significant amount of old growth Red and White Pines which is the reason the park was established in 1891. I stopped in at the park headquarters and introduced myself to the park manager. We had a good talk about his park and I was surprised to learn that the lodge and restaurant are all staffed by state employees, nothing is outsourced. And that like many parks’ the funding sources can be problematic. Park people talk the same language wherever they are from.

]]>Sat, 23 Jun 2012 10:35:10 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/june-23rd-2012I felt guilty all the time I was driving through Iowa, a small gnawing at the back of my neck, the cheerful voice of a good friend in my ear, good times spent together at PLEA conferences of past remembered, a sadness or disappointment within. PLEA is an organization that brings park professionals together with common goals and objectives. It’s where I met Dan Krone many years ago, one of our past Board of Directors. Dan served his career as a Ranger with the Army Corp of Engineers working in Iowa ACOE parks and as member of their emergency relief teams deployed to disaster areas across the country and US territories. Dan retired a few years ago and we miss his sage advice and hard work. I regret that we didn’t plan enough time for a visit with a good friend. Dan; another time when we can plan a quality visit. Working our way ever north we stopped in the Minneapolis area to meet with Fred McCormick (Minneapolis Park Police) one of our Past Presidents and with Chief Hugo McPhee (Three Rivers Park District) our current President. Most PLEA members who regularly attend our annual conferences have developed professional contacts with other members. We not only learn from but we make lifelong friends with PLEA associates. Fred is a professional contact that has become a good friend over the years. That evening Fred picked us up at the campsite and drove us to a nice restaurant on a lake that he had made reservations for. We had a great visit and the walleye with local wild rice soup was superb. Chief McPhee recommended we camp at one of his parks, Baker Park Preserve. One of Three Rivers Park District parks with camping facilities, and we were impressed. ‘Three Rivers Park District is a "special park district" serving the suburban areas of the Twin Cities metro Minnesota including suburban Hennepin, Carver, Dakota, and Scott and Ramsey counties. The mission of Three Rivers is, "To promote environmental stewardship through recreation and education in a natural resources-based park system." Three Rivers currently operates twenty parks and ten regional trails, with at least two more planned regional trails. Nearly seven million people visit Three Rivers facilities each year.’ The park has more than 200 sites; all of the facilities are first class. Everything I saw in this park is top shelf, first class, and the best we have seen anywhere! The park is located on Lake Independence and offers more than 2,700 acres with camping, golf, cross-country skiing, and much more. The campsites are large and level. They pay attention to details. I was very impressed to see uniformed Law Enforcement Park Police, both patrolling in vehicles and on foot through the camping area at sundown.]]>Sat, 23 Jun 2012 10:32:33 GMThttp://www.myparkranger.org/carls-ranger-station-blog/chippewa-national-forest-stony-point-campgroundWe hadn’t thought of staying that long. Not that we have a structured travel agenda because we don’t. It’s more like an idea free of obligations, no reservations that require we be at a certain place on a specific date. But after camping a few days with friends on the shore of Lake Leech we just didn’t want to leave so soon, so we camped there for six nights. We were enjoying visiting and fishing with friends, birding and the area,,, well the area made me feel at home although I had never been to Minnesota, the land of 10,000 lakes. The further we traveled north the more obvious it became that Minnesota is an outdoors wonderland with fishing opportunities everywhere and Lake Leech is a premier attraction. The lake is HUGE! In some places you can’t see across to the opposite shore. While there are houses and cabins along the shore in places, it’s not over developed and retains a wooded outdoors ambiance. From Wikipedia; the forest covers 666,623 acres. Water is abundant, with over 1,300 lakes (including Leech Lake), 923 miles of rivers and streams, and 400,000 acres of wetlands. I was very fortunate to have had the opportunity to fish four different times with our friend Tim on his Lund fishing boat. And what a nicely rigged fishing machine it is too. Lake Leech is recognized for its Walleye fishery. Although I am still looking forward to catching a mess of fresh Walleye Fillets the Northern Pike didn’t let me down. They are a thrill on ultra-light six lb test line, and thank you Sis for fixin them just right and for the locally harvested Wild Rice.]]>