Primary links

Castle Rock

(18 routes)

Place info

Castle Rock

(18 routes)

Just off the 309 Road

Huge potential – world class quality

Long routes

Fab views

All sport climbing

Hip and thigh toning approach!

Castle Rock has nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would – serious trouble here is easy to come by.
The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5-pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island.
A big hug and rainbow coloured flowers to all the developers of Castle Rock – it's a steep walk to take a drill, etc – you're awesome!New routes
New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile.Gear
To date all the routes except 1 are bolted, and you will need about 15 quick draws minimum to attempt most routes. It is strongly advised that you take two 60 metre ropes, these are big cliffs and a lot of the abseil are over 50m. Don’t forget to tie knots in the ends of your ropes, and extend your runners..

Castle Rock has nice long bolted climbing on beautifully solid rock, but before hurling yourself into this take more care than I would – serious trouble here is easy to come by.
The first time I climbed at Castle Rock my climbing partner and I behaved like complete cowboys, excitedly rapping off any bolts we saw at the tops of the cliffs. That was one of the many top anchors to non-existent climbs at Castle Rock that we rapped down. We also rapped down a traversing line, the top pitch of an unfinished 5-pitch climb, and couldn't pull the ropes down... oops... blah, blah, blah.... my point being... it was fun... just be prepared for something different from anywhere else in the North Island.
A big hug and rainbow coloured flowers to all the developers of Castle Rock – it's a steep walk to take a drill, etc – you're awesome!New routes
New developers please use only stainless steel hardware for new routes. Please try to hide your bolts and consider where your route starts and tops out. Climbers have already added significantly to the erosion at the tops. It's also good practice to keep low profile.Gear
To date all the routes except 1 are bolted, and you will need about 15 quick draws minimum to attempt most routes. It is strongly advised that you take two 60 metre ropes, these are big cliffs and a lot of the abseil are over 50m. Don’t forget to tie knots in the ends of your ropes, and extend your runners..

Access:

From Thames:
The 309 Road (yes, 309 is the name of the road) is about 3km south of Coromandel Township. Drive north from Thames for about an hour and turn right at the 309 Road and the sign to the Waiau Waterworks, (3km before Coromandel). When you see the Waiau Waterworks, take the next left on CASTLE ROCK ROAD. Drive 3km or so up the Castle Rock forestry road to the top. Just after the road curls off to the right, you can park on the right side of the road. You'll be able to see the rock from here
The walking track is a little overgrown at the start. Go into the bush, at the big corner, and take the little track going straight up to the summit – not the long overgrown road curling off to the right. Go up the walking track in the native bush.
At the top of the saddle there's a fork in the track. Kookmeyer and Budda Wall is on the left outcrop, the Quiet Earth Wall and the main lookout is to the right. The lookout on the right buttress also gives you a great view of the Budda Wall.

Near the car-park, you can see it from the car-park, the pillar. It's got an interesting approach I hear. Close, but not so close. I also hear it's about grade 10-14 and a few bolts. Any more information you'll just have to bash off to find the thing.

Attribution:

www.freeclimb.co.nz. Hosted by Cliff Ellery, Written by Rachael Mayne.