From Straps/Lining Fabric:
Gusset: 34.75”x3.5”
Straps: 2 – 6”x24” (note: this length works well on my 3.5 year old as pictured – if making for an older child, you may want to lengthen the straps)
Strap Loops: 2 – 6”x5”
Strap Cover: 2”x8”

Cut out all pieces as instructed on pattern pieces. On fusible fleece pieces, trim the seam allowance from front, back, and gusset to reduce bulk (do not trim strap or strap loop fusible fleece pieces). Interfacing seam allowance can also be trimmed if desired – I usually trim it roughly for easier application). Apply interfacing to wrong side of corresponding pieces, and fusible fleece to main fabric pieces (see note below), following manufacturer’s instructions. Adhesive side of fusible fleece will be attached to right side of interfacing.

Fold strap and strap loop pieces in half and press. Fold each long raw edge to center and press. Open fold and attach interfacing, then fusible fleece adjacent to the center fold on one side.

With fold opened on one end of each strap, press raw edge 1/2″ toward wrong side. Fold straps and strap loops in half along as was originally pressed, and press. Stitch close to edge along each side, and along short pressed edge (required for strap only – strap loops and handle can be stitched along one short edge as well to avoid needing to backstitch and lift the presser foot between stitching long edges).

Press each long edge of strap cover piece 1/2″ toward wrong side. Place top of strap cover along line as marked on pattern piece and pin in place. Stitch close to bottom folded edge to attach strap cover to back.

Slide strap loops under top folded edge of strap cover and pin in place as marked on pattern piece. Stitch close to top edge of strap cover, securing strap loops in place.

Thread stitched end of one strap through middle bar of strap adjuster as pictured below. Be sure right side of strap adjuster is facing upward. Overlap end 1.5″ back onto strap and stitch in place with a narrow rectangle or two rows 1/4″ apart. Thread opposite strap end through adjuster loop, and then through each side of adjuster bar as pictured. Stitch end to top of back to secure in place. Repeat with remaining strap.

Press one short edge of each zipper tab 1/2″ toward wrong side.

RST, place pressed edge of one zipper tab just above zipper top stop and pin in place, with raw edge that was pressed toward wrong side toward top of zipper. Stitch along fold line. Repeat with remaining zipper tab and opposite end of zipper.

Sandwich zipper between front top main fabric and lining, with zipper and main fabric RST.

Stitch front main fabric and lining together around entire outer edge, 3/8″ from raw edges.

RST, place short edge of main fabric gusset piece together and stitch together, starting and stopping 1/4″ from each end. Press seam allowance open. I was *just* short of the beautiful floral fabric when cutting my gusset, so in the photos you’ll notice an extra seam line where I had to piece it to get the length needed.

Using seam as one mark, make small 1/4″ perpendicular snips in raw edge on each side at opposite halfway mark around gusset.

RST, pin gusset seam to bottom point of back, and mark made in previous step to center top of back. Continue pinning from the bottom point upward until the upper back curves, where they begin to be more dramatic (remember to ignore the extra seam in my gusset).

Make 1/4″ perpendicular snips every 1/2-5/8″ along unpinned raw edge of gusset. Pin snipped edges to upper curves of back.

Stitch along pinned edges, attaching gusset to back. For more stability, backstitch at the top inward curve on each side.

Clip seam allowance of upper curves on back, clip a “v” shaped notch into the top inward curve, and press seam allowances open (it will be tricky but a pressing ham is helpful if you have one).

Attach lining gusset to lining back using same method as described above.

Wrong sides together, place lining back inside of main fabric back, pinning together along unstitched raw edges of gussets. If lining it sitting too bulky within main fabric, you may want to go back and clip/trim the seams as needed to reduce the bulk. Stitch together along pinned edge, using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Treating the back main fabric/lining pieces as one, attach remaining edge of gusset to front using same method used to attach back and gusset pieces together. It will be bulky to stitch through, but using lots of pins and stitching slowly will keep you stitching smoothly!

Turn backpack right side out to ensure that seams have been clipped enough to lay nicely and form nice curves. Clip/trim seams as needed to reduce bulk. Turn backpack wrong side out again, and, beginning near bottom point on one side sandwich bias tape around exposed raw edges and stitch close to folded edges of bias tape, ensuring stitches are reaching bias tape on both the bottom and top. Stretch bias tape gently around the curves, and continue sewing until top inward curve is reached. Backstitch and cut bias tape, beginning again with new end of bias tape, and continuing until bias tape overlaps first end sewn, forming a mitered corner at bottom point.

Turn backpack right side out once again, and you are done!

Great job!

Now find your little Valentine and fill the backpack up with goodies for her to enjoy!

Holy cranberries, this is FANTASTIC!
I am thinking of making one for me, as a purse for Valentine’s Day. My husband is taking me to the symphony to celebrate our Anniversary (late) and Valentine’s day. This is just perfect!!
Goodness. Just when I think your posts cannot possibly get better, you do this!
Well done, Lady!

Ooh, what a fun date! We usually celebrate our anniversary and V-Day together too cause our anniversary’s on the 28th! And you just made me feel like a million bucks, so thank you thank you thank you, friend!

What a cutie! I love the backpack, too! Thanks so much and you have solved my birthday gift quandary for my grand daughters this year. They will be SO excited! One pink and one purple and so much excitement. Can’t wait! :)

Hi Diana – If you click on the link, it should take you to Craftsy, where you can create a free account and then download the pattern for free. The link is working for me, maybe try clearing the cache on your browser or refreshing the page?

I could only find D-rings for this pattern but I am having trouble making them work. I have a total of 4 rings but I’m thinking I might need 6, 2 for the front of the strap and 1 to attach the strap to the backpack. Am I doing something wrong? Thank you, Patty.

Hi Patty! If you’re using D-rings, you should just need 2 for each side, which would both be attached to the bottom loops. Then the long straps can get threaded through and then back up again to secure.

Hello! This is an adorable little bag! I would love to add it to my shop but I see you have it for personal use only. Do you offer an option to buy it or to buy a commercial license? Let me know if there’s something we could work out! Thank you!

Abbey, when I saw your post on bunny toddler backpack I thought it was incredible; however, this heart backpack I loved it even more. You just keep raising the bar every time. Thanks for such a fantastic backpack tutorial.

Hello Abby, I am not sure you are still taking comments on this tutorial (which I love by the way.) But as look at the attachment of the gussets I get confused extremely for some reason. To me it looks like you somehow sandwiched the back side (strap attached side) hems inside the gusset. Then on the front side of the gusset you sewed bias tape to cover the hem (that part makes perfect sense to me.) I just can’t seem to figure out hid the first hemline inside. Your answer will probably give me an oh duh moment, or perhaps I haven’t had enough coffee yet this morning, either way, please help me figure out how you did this!! Thanks so much. P.s. I want to make one of these bags for my Abby. :)

Hi Cass! The straps are indeed sandwiched between the gusset and back of the bag. They’re sewn to the right side of the back of the bag, and then once the gusset is attached, and everything is turned right side out, the seam will be hidden where the straps were attached. Does that help? :)

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