Today my wife started to cook something when the lights on the control panel all went out and it stopped cooking. The circuit breaker is tripped and won't reset. I pulled the oven out of the wall and noticed smoke stains on the cabinetry and on the cover over the back of the control panel. I took of the cover and there is a burned component on the control board. For some reason the door is locked closed - I can't open it to see the model number and I never wrote it down anywhere else. The part number of the control panel is: 318271510.

Any clues to get the door open? I think having the model number will help further troubleshoot if I can get to it. Also, the food is still stuck in there.

I'm guessing one of the elements is shorted. I've read that I should measure resistance of the element. Do I remove the element to measure that? What should the ohms be? I've seen instructions for measuring voltage. I'm guessing I'm missing something super easy, because measuring the ohms is suggested quite a bit.

A nice feature of appliancepartspros.com is, if you have a part number, they give you a list of models it fits. Your control panel only fits two models, PLEB30S9DCA and PLEB30S9DCB. Since you already have it out, remove the back panel and check your elements. Elements are usually around 20 to 30 ohms and should measure infinite to ground. Look for shorted wiring. The door lock is under an access panel at the top front of the oven. You should be able to move the latch to get the door open.

Opening these locked ovens is like being a lock pick. . . . especially the ones that are screwed into a wall, and you need to open the locked door to get to the screws that let you access the service panels to unlock the door. (basically, it's near impossible to unlock it)

Why can't they just install a emergency release lever somewhere??! Guess they don't want to be responsible for anyone severely burning themselves.

Your DLB relay looks burnt but I doubt it's shorted. But I suppose anything's possible. Check all of those terminals to ground. The only one that should have continuity to ground is the neutral wire to the control. What's interesting is, by looking at the picture, it doesn't look like you have a convection element. The space for it next to DLB relay is empty. If you can solder or know someone who can, that relay is $3.84 plus shipping at Mouser.

That board must be used for other configurations because although the convection element spot is empty, the element is wired to the convection fan and the fan wires (brown) are connected to the panel in other places.

I was testing for continuity to ground and had some weird results. I'm using a digital Fluke multimeter and I was seeing between 1000 - 2000 ohms resistance for most of the terminals. I pulled one of the wiring harnesses part way off to look behind it and put it back and turned the multimeter off then on. Then there was no continuity between any of them and ground. The next info might explain why :-(

I was sooooo hopeful that the DLB relay would work. After testing for continuity to ground, I took out the circuit boards and looked in between the two boards (see attached photos). The board that the relay is on is burned clear through in spots. It looks like some serious current ran between the L2 terminals and the DLB Relay - that's where the most severe burning is. On the board that sits behind this one, the heat burned through a bunch of the circuits on the board (10 or more). I'm guessing I can't salvage it.

If the relay fails, is this what can happen? Am I probably safe to replace the Clock/Timer? I don't want to replace it to have the same thing happen again as soon as I turn it on . . .