Tagged: mavericks

Here’s a look at the real-time wave reports from Half Moon Bay (@buoy46012) yesterday. Solid 15-second swell energy in the 12-15 foot range. Throw some light winds into the mix and this is what you get.

Buoy Alarm is a resource for ocean enthusiasts and we’re very close to launching. If personalized real-time alarms, access to historical surf conditions, and a detailed swell forecast interest you, we encourage you to join our invite list.

Sion Milosky tragically drown on Wednesday while surfing Mavericks, after falling on a set wave and suffering a two-wave hold down. Chris Killen, a videographer who witnessed Sion’s final wave, published a chilling account of the wipeout and the events that followed it. It is utterly heartbreaking to read.

I last saw Sion at my house about a week ago. He was cooking his very first turkey and stopped by to grab fresh herbs from the garden. We chatted about the buoys, then I asked him if he’d be interested in holding onto my paddleboard after I moved to California. I couldn’t think of a better person to give it to. We had talked about doing the Molokai race last year, but there are a lot of logistics involved, and we didn’t pull it together in time. I figured this year he’d at least have a board, so he could train and do the shorter races, then be ready for a relay or even solo Molokai attempt. He was psyched on the idea.

This morning I grabbed the paddleboard from where it was stored and brought it to the house, so it would be ready for Si to pick up during his next visit. By this evening it had become an eerie sight in the backyard and a stark reality check. As surfers continue to push the limits of both their skill and equipment, the risks continue to escalate as well. The ocean has a knack for humbling even the most confident watermen. Most end up battered and bruised with a crazy story to share, or a “greatest wipeouts” profile on Surfline. The unfortunate few pay with their life.

Aloha Sion, I will always admire your passion for the ocean. You will be dearly missed and my heart goes out to your entire family.

Here’s a shot of Mavericks this morning by Luke Kilpatrick. The Half Moon Bay buoy was hovering around 15 feet at 19 seconds mid-morning, but the swell period looks to have settled in around 16 seconds now.

The 10th Annual Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards will be given away tonight in California, in seven different categories: Ride of the Year, Biggest Wave, Monster Paddle, Monster Tube, Verizon Wipeout, Surfline Performance and Billabong Girls Performance. It has been an epic, El Nino fueled year with a mind-blowing list of nominees. Relatively new mutant slabs, as well as legendary big wave spots are represented, and the performance level has become increasingly cartoonish in scale.

Of course the images and videos speak for themselves, but I’d like to entertain you with some empirical data. Of the five Ride of the Year nominations, one took place in Tahiti (barely making the deadline), two took place in Hawaii, and the final two took place on the very same day in California. Unfortunately, we don’t have any real-time buoy data from Tahiti, but we do have access to the Waimea and Half Moon Bay buoy observations.

Now these readings are just averages, and some waves within a swell are larger than average, so judge the video not the data. In addition, each location is subject to unique variables that influence wave height and shape, such as swell direction and local bathymetry. However, it is interesting to see how the data stacks up, and having a visual reference from the actual day provides a tangible reference.

There’s no doubt the surf will be massive when a buoy reads 22 feet at 16.7 seconds, but what about 6 feet at 14 seconds? Or 8 feet at 8 seconds? We’re working on implementing some features to help with this, and provide that valuable point of reference so you can begin to develop your own buoy awareness.

You may not have the gusto to glide onto the cover of Surfing when the Waimea buoy hits 16.7 feet at 20 seconds (like it did on Christmas), but at least you’ll understand what that looks like.