It is assumed by the author that you would
not actually use this information as a guide for new activities.If you don’t know what you are doing, you
could make a mistake and DIE.Some of
the procedures are general ways of making a specific devise or chemical
composition, and lack the exact details that inexperienced people need to
safely make a desired material.

Also, there may be one or two references to terrorists and
procedures that they may use in a few sections; I HATE terrorists, and do not
in any way promote terrorism!(I
just didn’t feel like to go through the entire book and delete every sentence
containing the word “terrorist”.)

If you are wanting to carry out a death wish, and are going to
attempt some of these procedures, then READ THE SAFETY SECTION FIRST(if you
want a better chance of living)!Don’t
be a dumb-ass, and do it near people or houses, and hurt someone and/or
yourself! Don’t be a “Kewl”.

It is obvious that injury or death should be avoided at all
costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on
the side of caution.

Never
smoke anywhere nearchemicals or
compositions.

Be sure you are familiar with all the properties of the
compositions you work with. Thoroughly test new compositions for
sensitivity, stability, compatibility with other mixtures etc, until you
are absolutely sure that the mixture is ok to use in your application and
method of construction. Find out as much as you can about other peoples
experiences with a particular mixture.

Use only non-sparking tools. Make your tools from
either: wood, paper, aluminum, lead or brass. Other metals and materials
may spark (especially steel).

Paper bags or wooden containers are good to use for storing
mixed compositions. Store compositions dry and cool. Avoid plastics, glass
and metal. Avoid storing compositions in general. Make as much as you will
need in the near future and keep no more in stock than necessary.

Never have large amounts of composition near you. If you must
use larger amounts of composition in multiple items, store the bulk of
composition in a safe place and bring only small amounts to your working
place. Finished items should also be brought to a safe place immediately.

Prevent contamination of chemicals and mixtures. Have
separate tools for every type of mixture (i.e. black powder-like mixtures,
chlorates, perchlorates, etc) and clean them well with hot water and/or
alcohol after use. It is no luxury either to have different sets of
clothing for working with different mixtures. Wash them every time after
use (dust collects in the clothing). If you have the possibility, have
separate rooms or better yet: separate buildings for working with
different types of mixtures/chemicals.

Keep a clean working place. Fine dust easily spreads all
over your working place. Keep chemicals in closed cabinets or in a
separate building. Mixtures should not be kept in the working place anyway
(see rules 4 and 5).

Provide adequate ventilation. This is especially important
when working with volatile solvents or (poisonous, flammable) powdered
chemicals. Not only can you get yourself poisoned, vapor or dust may also
ignite.

Be aware of static electricity buildup. Ground your working
table. Monitor humidity and keep it above 60% as a rule of thumb. This can
be especially important in winter when preparing for new years eve (on the
Northern Hemisphere at least). Touch a grounded surface before you place
things on it. Touch other people before handing over compositions or
finished items. Wear cotton clothing, avoid synthetics (do not be tempted
to wear fleece clothing if your working place is cold in winter). Simple
things such as unscrewing a (plastic) bottle, unwinding some tape or even
moving your arm may accumulate enough charge on your body to ignite a
sensitive composition. The risk of static electricity is often
underestimated or even completely ignored by beginning amateurs in pyro,
while it is actually one of the major causes of accidents in both
commercial/industrial and amateur pyro setups.

Wear proper protective clothing. A face shield, dust mask,
heavy gloves and a leather apron are minimal. Wear cotton clothing.
Hearing protection can be good but it also makes it harder to hear other
people's warnings.

Provide safety screens between you and compositions,
especially when pressing, ramming, sieving or in other ways causing
frictions/shocks/pressure etc.

Be prepared for the worst. Have a plan for when something
should go wrong. Have a fire extinguisher and plenty of water ready. Think
beforehand of what might happen and how you could minimize the damage.
Know how to treat burns. Inform someone else so he/she can help in case of
an accident. Have a fast escape route from your working place.

Test a device well before showing it to an audience. Inform
any audience well of what can happen.

[This
is a publication of the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association. It may be
reproduced in whole or in part without permission or compensation providing:]

[Editors note: I have received several letters offering comments and/or
corrections on this document. Since I am not the author of the document, and do
not have the expertise to judge these comments, I have put them as received on another page]

1) credit is given to the Western New
York Pyrotechnic Association

2) it is distributed free. If you plan
to make a buck on it, we want a piece of it!!

We believe that the information contained herein is true and
correct, however it is offered only as a guide and not to be used as a
guarantee. We cannot assume responsibility nor liability for the use or misuse
of the information contained herein.

The following is a compilation of information gathered over the
years from various research and sources too numerous to remember.

Within these pages you will find
descriptions of almost 150 chemicals that are used in Fireworks, Explosives,
Rocket Fuels or are explosives in themselves. This list is not complete and is
not intended to be complete. All of the uses are not given and only the related
purposes of each are stated.

Whenever possible we explain
which grades are thought to be the best, the chemical formula, melting
temperature, decomposition temperature, form (liquid, powder, crystal, etc.),
if it will explode, if it is poisonous and its usage. Some of these chemicals
cannot be purchased and are offered as a guide for information purposes only.

CHEMICALS HAVE A CERTAIN PURPOSE TO PERFORM IN FIREWORKS AND CAN
BE CLASSIFIED INTO FOUR GROUPS:

GROUP I.

These
chemicals are the chemicals which produce the oxygen and are called oxidizers.

GROUP
II.

Those
which combine with the oxidizers are called reducers.

GROUP
III.

These are
the chemicals which regulate the rate of burning and help to produce the
desired effect.

Certain combinations of chemicals are remarkable explosive,
poisonous or hazardous in some other way, and these are generally avoided as a
matter of course. There are many others that are perhaps equally dangerous but
do not come to mind as readily. The following list, although not complete, may
serve as a memory refresher. Stop and think for a moment before starting any
work, especially if one hazardous chemical is involved.

DO NOT CONTACT:

Alkali
metals, such as calcium, potassium and sodium with water, carbon dioxide, carbon tetrachloride,
and other chlorinated hydrocarbons.

Some combinations of chemicals
lead to especially sensitive or unstable mixtures. There are many more of such
incompatible chemicals/mixtures than listed here but these are some of the more
commonly encountered types:

Chlorates and sulfur. Mixtures containing both are not only
very sensitive to friction and shock but are also known to ignite
spontaneously. The sulfur reacts with water and air to form trace amounts
of sulfuric acid. This will react with chlorates to form chlorine dioxide,
a yellow explosive gas that will ignite most flammable materials upon
contact. Addition of small amounts of barium or strontium carbonate to
chlorate based compositions is sometimes done to prevent buildup of acid,
even in compositions without sulfur. Many older texts on pyrotechnics
describe the use of chlorate/sulfur based compositions. Today, many
alternative and much safer compositions are available and there is
therefore no excuse for the use of chlorate/sulfur mixtures. This also
means chlorate based compositions cannot be used in items that also
contain sulfur based mixtures. For example: chlorate based stars cannot be
primed with black powder. Nor can a H3 burst charge be used with black
powder primed stars (or stars containing sulfur).

Chlorates and ammonium compounds. Mixing these will allow ammonium
chlorate to form in a double decomposition reaction that takes place in
solution (moisture speeds up the process). Ammonium chlorate is a highly instable
explosive compound. It decomposes over time producing chlorine dioxide gas
(see chlorates and sulfur). Mixtures are likely to spontaneously ignite
upon storage or may explode for no apparent reason. An exception seems to
be the use of ammonium chloride and potassium chlorate in some smoke
compositions. According to Shimizu this combination is safe due to the
lower solubility of potassium chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate). I
personally would still use these mixtures with great caution (or avoid
them) since it seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate
will still form. The lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it
the -main- product in a double decomposition reaction but not the -only-
product.

Chlorates with metals and nitrates. These mixtures show the same problems
as chlorate/ammonium compound mixtures. The reason is that nitrates can be
reduced by most metals used in pyrotechnics to ammonium. The reaction rate
of this reaction is increased by presence of water. Over time (for example
when drying) these mixtures may spontaneously ignite or become extremely
sensitive. The fact that ammonium forms in a relatively slow reaction is
treacherous. These mixtures are referred to as 'death mixes' by some.

Aluminum and nitrates. Mixtures of these compounds sometimes
spontaneously ignite, especially when moist. The mechanism is assumed to
be as follows: the aluminum reduces some of the nitrate to ammonium,
simultaneously forming hydroxyl ions. The aluminum then reacts with the alkaline
products in a very exothermic reaction leading to spontaneous heating up
of the mixture. This can eventually lead to ignition. The reactions take
place in solution and therefore moisture speeds up the reaction. The
process is usually accompanied by the smell of ammonia. Some types of
aluminum are more problematic than others. Stearin coated aluminum is
generally safer to use. The whole process can be prevented in many cases
by the addition of 1 to 2 percent of boric acid. This will neutralise the
alkaline products. It is best to bind such compositions with non-aquaous
binder/solvent systems such as red gum/ethanol. Since aluminum/nitrate
mixtures are extensively used it is important to be aware of this problem
which is why the combination is listed here.

ALL
FLASH POWDERS ARE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS. THEY WILL IGNITE FROM FRICTION, IMPACT,
OR FLAME.

While it is assumed that the individual who is dispensing these
materials is responsible and knowledgeable as to their use, the following pointers
will prove helpful:

Always use electrical ignition, either a
commercial squib or Nichrome hot wire. The use of a squib is preferred
because it provides a more positive ignition.

Always use an approved flash pot, made
from transite or other similar material.

Always use the minimum amount of powder
required to achieve the desired effect. In general, one quarter of a
teaspoon will be sufficient.

Always have only one person who is
responsible for dispensing and storing the flash powders.

Never pour the powder directly from the
bottle into the flash pot. Measure the correct amount using a non-sparking
metal, not plastic, spoon.

Never confine or compact the powder in
any way. To do so may lead to a violent explosion.

Never return unused powder to the original
bottle.

Never mix two different colors of flash
powder. In many cases, the chemicals in the two materials are incompatible
with each other.

Never pour flash powder from its plastic
bottle onto plastic film or into another plastic container. The material
is packed in plastic to reduce the danger of serious injury in case the
powder should ignite in the bottle.

Be extra careful on dry or low humidity
days, when the chance of ignition by static electricity is high.

An element
used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased as a fine
silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure (99.9%) can be
used. The danger is from inhaling the dust and explosive room condition if too
much dust goes into the air.

Aluminum
Chloride AlCl3

This
chemical must not come in contact with the skin as severe burns can result. The
yellowish-white crystals or powder have a strong attraction for water. Purchase
only in the anhydrous grade.

Amber

This is a
fossil resin of vegetable origin and is yellowish- brown in color. It is used
in fireworks to a small extent.

Ammonium
Bichromate and Dichromate (NH4)2Cr2O7

A mild
poison used in the manufacture of tabletop volcanoes (sometimes called Vesuvius
Fire). It is available as orange crystals in a technical grade. Also used in
smoke formulas.

Ammonium
Chloride NH4NO3

The
common name is Sal Ammoniac. Comes as colorless crystals or a white powder. The
technical grade is used to manufacture safety explosives and smokes.

Ammonium
Oxalate NH4C2O4

This
compound takes the form of colorless, poisonous, crystals. The technical grade
is suitable for the manufacture of safety explosives.

Ammonium
Perchlorate
(NH4ClO4)

This
chemical can be made to explode by either heat or shock. Besides exploding in
itself, it is used to manufacture other explosives.

Ammonium
Permanganate
NH4MnO4

A
moderate explosive which can be detonated by either heat or shock.

Ammonium
Picrate
(NH4C6H2N3O7)

These
bright orange crystals are used in armor piercing shells and fireworks. If
heated to 300 degrees it will explode or it can be set off by shock. If you do
any work with this chemical, it is advisable to keep it wet.

Aniline
Dyes

These are
used in smoke powder formulas. They are organic coal tar derivatives. Available
in many different colors.

Aniline
Green C23H25CIN2

Also
known as Malachite Green. One of the many Aniline dyes. The green crystals are
used in smoke formulas.

Anthracene

A coal
tar derivative used as a source of dyestuff and for colored smokes. Available
as colorless crystals which melt at 217 degrees.

Antimony Sb

Another
name for this metal element is Antimony Regulus. Purchase the black powder in
99% purity. Not the yellow variety. It is used in pyrotechnics.

Antimony
Fulminate

One of a
group of unstable, explosive compounds related to Mercury Fulminate.

Antimony
Potassium Tartrate

Also
known under the name of Tartar Emetic. These poisonous, transparent, odorless
crystals (or white powder) are used to make Antimony Fulminate. The moisture
that is present can be driven off by heating to 100 degrees. Do not exceed this
temperature or the chemical will decompose.

Antimony
Sulfide (Sb2S3)

This has
usefulness in sharpening the report of firecrackers, salutes, etc. or to add color
to a fire. The technical black powder is suitable. Avoid contact with the skin;
dermatitis or worse will be the result.

Aqua
Regia

A strong
acid containing 1 part concentrated Nitric Acid and 3 parts concentrated
Hydrochloric Acid. Store in a well closed glass bottle in a dark place. This
acid will attack all metals, including gold and platinum. It is used in making
some explosives.

Arsenic
Sulfide, Red

The
common name is Realgar and it is also known as Red Arsenic. Purchase the
technical grade, which is available as a poisonous orange-red powder. It is
used in fireworks to impart color to the flame.

Arsenic
Sulfide,Yellow
(As2S3)

This
Chemical is just as poisonous as its red brother and is also used in fireworks,
somewhat. The common name is Kings Gold.

Arsenious
Oxide (As2O)3

A white,
highly poisonous powder used in fireworks. It is also known as Arsenious
Trioxide, Arsenic Oxide and Arsenous Acid. Its uses are similar to Paris Green.

Asphaltum

A black
bituminous substance, best described as powdered tar.

Auramine
Hydrochloride

Also
known as Auramine. It is used in smoke formulas. Available as yellow flakes or
powder, which readily dissolves in alcohol.

Auramine

A
certified Biological stain used in smoke cartridges.

Barium
Carbonate BaCO3

This is a
poisonous salt of Barium, which decomposes at a fairly high temperature, 1300
degrees. It is available as a fine white powder in the technical grade. It is
used in fireworks as a color imparter.

Barium
Chlorate
Ba(ClO3)2H2O

Available
as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is used in
fireworks, both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as
Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is
414 degrees.

Barium
Nitrate Ba(NO3)2

The uses
and precautions are the same as above with a comparison equal to Potassium
Nitrate instead of the Chlorate. It melts at 500 degrees.

Bismuth
Fulminate

One of a
group of unstable, explosive compounds derived from Fulminic Acid.

Brass

This is
an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Some also contain a small percentage of Tin. The
commercial grade is suitable in powdered form. It is used in some fireworks
formulas.

Calcium
Carbide CaCO3

These
grayish, irregular lumps are normally packed in waterproof and airtight metal
containers. It is used in toy cannons. Mixed with water it forms Acetylene Gas
(EXPLOSIVE).

Calcium
Carbonate CaCO3

This
occurs as the mineral Calcite. It is used for Phosphorous Torpedoes, but does
not have any dangerous properties in itself. Also as an acid absorber in
fireworks.

Calcium
Fluoride CaF2

This
finds its use in a smokeless firework mixture and is not used elsewhere. It is
a white powder, also known as Fluorspar.

Calcium
Phosphide Ca3P2

This
compound, which comes as gray lumps, must be kept dry. Upon contact with water
it will form the flammable gas, Phosphine. It is used in signal fires.

Camphor OC10H16

A ketone
found in the wood of the Camphor tree, native to Taiwan and a few of our
states. For the best results, buy the granulated, technical grade. Used in
explosives and fireworks.

Castor
Oil

The
common drug store variety is used in some powders to reduce the sensitiveness
and to waterproof the mixture.

Charcoal C

A form of
the element, Carbon, it is used in fireworks and explosives as a reducing
agent. It can be purchased as a dust up to a coarse powder. The softwood
variety is best and it should be black, not brown.

Chrysoidine

An
organic dye available as a red-brown powder. It is used in smoke formulas.

Clay

This can
be purchased in the powdered form. It is used dry for chokes, nozzles and
sealing firework cases. You can mix it with water to form paste if so desired.

Confectioners
Sugar

Commonly
called powdered sugar, it can be purchased at your local food store. The
fineness is graded by the symbol XXXX. It is used in explosives.

Copper
Cu

As any
pure metal used in fireworks, this must also be in a powdered state. It is
reddish in color, in fact, it is the only element to be found in nature having
that color.

Copper
Acetoarsenite (Cu)3As2O3Cu(C2H3O2)2

The
popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called Kings Green or Vienna
Green. It is readily available as an insecticide or as a technical grade,
poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in fireworks to add color.

Copper
Arsenate CuHAsO3

A fine,
light green, poisonous powder. It is used in the technical grade for fireworks.

Copper
Carbonate
CuCO3.Cu(OH)2

Also
known as Cupric Carbonate or Artificial Malachite. It is a green powder used in
fireworks.

Copper
Chlorate
Cu(ClO3)2.6H2O

Or,
technically, Cupric Chlorate. A poison used in fireworks as an oxidizer and to
add color.

Copper
Chloride CuCl2

An
oxidizer and color imparter used in fireworks. Purchase the brownish-yellow
technical grade. This is a poisonous compound.

Copper
Nitrate
Cu(NO3)2.3H2O

Or Cupric
Nitrate. These blue crystals absorb water, as you can see from the formula. It
is used in fireworks.

Copper
Oxide CuO

When
ordering be sure to specify the black powder. It is also available in red. The
technical grade will serve the purpose for fireworks.

Copper
Oxychloride

A green
powder used to impart oxygen and color especially to blue star formulas. It is
a poison and the dust should not be inhaled.

Copper
Sulfate
CuSO4.5H2O

Known as Blue
Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystals or blue powder.
It can be purchased in some drugstores. Used in fireworks for blue stars.

Copper
Sulfide CuS

As are
the other copper salts, this is also used in fireworks to add color. The
technical grade is suitable and is black in color. You can make your own by
passing Hydrogen Sulfide into a Copper salt.

Decaborane
B10H14

This
chemical is classed as a flammable solid and is used for rocket fuels. It will
remain stable indefinitely at room temperature.

Diazoacetic
Ester C4H6N2O2

A very
severe explosive in the form of a yellow oil. It will explode on contact with
Sulfuric acid or when heated. Very volatile and explosive.

Diazoaminobenzene C6H5N:N.NH.C6H5

These
golden yellow crystals will explode when heated to 150 degrees.

P-Diazobenzeneslfonic
Acid C6H4NSO3N

Another
severe explosive. It can be exploded by rubbing the white paste or powder, or
by heating.

Diazodimitrophenol HOC6H3(NO2)2N(:N)

An
organic explosive in the same group as the above compound. Also very sensitive
to shock or heat.

Diazomethane CH2N2

Also
known as Azimethylene. This yellow gas is also in the above group and can be
exploded by heat or shock.

Dinitrotoulene

Known as
DNT for short. These yellow crystals are used in the manufacture of other
explosives.

Ethyl
Alcohol

This
alcohol is the only one that is useful for fireworks. It should be about 95%
pure. It is poisonous because of the impurities. It is clear, like water, and
also a very flammable liquid.

Fluorine
Perchlorate
FClO4

A very
sensitive colorless gas which will explode on the slightest contact with a
rough surface. It can also be detonated by heating to 168 degrees. Avoid all
contact with this gas, as even a trace of it will attack the lungs.

Gallic
Acid C7H6O5.H2O

A white
or pale fawn colored powder used in fireworks to make whistles. When mixed with
some chlorates, Permanganates or Silver salts, it may explode.

Glycerol C3H8O3

Commonly
known as Glycerin. It is obtained from oils and fats as a by-product when
making soaps. It is a sweet warm tasting syrupy liquid which is used in several
explosives. Contact with Chromium Trionide or potassium Permanganate may cause
an explosion.

Gold
Explosive

A dark
brown powder which explodes when heated or rubbed. Upon exploding, it yields
Gold, Nitrogen and Ammonia. The exact composition is unknown because it is too
explosive to be dried.

Guanidine
Nitrate
CH5N3.HNO3

Guanidine
is found in turnip juice, rice hulls and earthworms. It is used in the preparation
of this chemical, or, it can be made from Ammonium Nitrate and Dicyanodiamide.
To be of any value, it should be 95% pure. Guanidine Nitrate is not explosive
itself, but is used in the manufacture of explosives. It is a white powder
which melts at 210 degrees.

Gum
Arabic

A dried,
gummy, exudate from tropical trees. It is available as flakes, fragments and
powder. It is used as a binder in firework formulas.

Hexachlorethane CCl3.CCl3

Also
known as Carbon Hexachloride, this chemical is used in smoke formulas It can be
obtained in either powder or crystals.

Indigo

A dark
blue crystalline powder which is a commercial dye. You can purchase either the
technical or pure grade for smokes.

Iodine

Heavy
grayish metallic looking crystals or flakes. Poisonous. Purchase the U.S.P.
grade. It is being used in making explosives.

Iron Fe

The
granular powder (at least 99% pure) is needed for several firework pieces. It
is not a dangerous element but will rust very easily, making it useless.

Iron Oxide FeO These black crystals are used in thermite mixtures. When
ordering, it may be listed as Ferrous Oxide. Black.

Kieselguhr

This is a
whitish powder used in dynamites. It is a siliceous earth, consisting mainly of
diatoms. A good grade will absorb about four times its own weight.

Lactose

Also
called milk sugar. This white powder has a sweet taste. The crude grade will
work for smoke formulas.

Lampblack

This is
another name for the element, carbon(pencil lead). It is a finely powdered
black dust, resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for special
effects in fireworks.

Lead
Azide PbN6

This is a
poisonous white powder which explodes by heating to 350 degrees or by
concussion. The main usage is in primers. It can be made from Sodium Azide and
Lead Nitrate.

Lead
Bromate
Pb(Bro3)2.H2O

Poisonous,
colorless crystals. Pure Lead Bromate is not explosive unless it is made from
precipitated Lead Acetate with an alkali bromate. Made in this manner, it can
be exploded by rubbing or striking.

Lead
Chloride PbCl2

It is
available as a white crystalline, poisonous powder which melts at 501 degrees.
It is used in fireworks.

Lead
Dioxide PbO2

Also
known as Brown Lead Oxide, this dark brown powder is used as an oxidizer in
matches and fireworks. Poisonous.

Lead
Nitrate Pb(NO3)2

Available
as white or colorless crystals in the technical grade. The uses include matches
and explosives. Poisonous.

Lead
Oxide Pb3O4

Also
known as Red Lead or Lead Tetroxide. A 95% purity is desired for matches. Also
poisonous.

Linseed
Oil

Available
in many forms: Brown, boiled, raw and refined. All are made from the seed of
the flax plant. The cheapest form is suitable for fireworks. Purchase from a
paint store.

Lithium
Chloride LiCl

The
technical grade is sometimes used to add color to fireworks compositions.
Available as a white powder.

Manganese
Dioxide MnO2

Used in
pyrotechnic mixtures, matches and match box friction surfaces. Available as a
technical grade, black powder. This oxidizer decomposes at 535 degrees.

Magnesium Mg

This
metal is used in a powdered state for brilliancy in flares and will even burn
vigorously underwater.

Mercuric
Chloride HgCl2

A white,
poisonous powder. Also known as Corrosive Sublimate. It can be made by
subliming Mercuric Sulfate with ordinary table salt and then purified by
recrystallization. The U.S.P. grade is used for some firework compositions.

Mercuric
Oxide HgO

Available
in two forms; red and yellow. Both forms give the same oxidizing effects in
fireworks. The technical grade is suitable.. All forms are poisonous.

Mercuric
Oxycyanide
HgO.Hg(CN)2

In the
pure state it is a violent poison which will explode when touched by flame or
friction.

Mercuric
Thiocyanate
Hg(SCN)2

A
poisonous, white odorless powder used in the making of Pharaoh"s Serpents.
Use the technical grade.

Mercurous
Chloride HgCl

Also
known as Calomel or Mercuric Monochloride. This white, non- poisonous powder
will brighten an otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by
PVC or Hexachlorobenzene and even Antimony Sulfide, for the same purpose. Note
that it is non poisonous only when it is 100% pure. Never confuse this chemical
with Mercuric Chloride, which is poisonous in any form.

Mercury
Fulminate
Hg(ONC)2.H2O

A
crystalline compound used in primers, percussion caps, blasting caps and other
detonators. Explodes very easily from heat or shock.

Methylene
Blue C16H18N3SCl

This dark
green powder is used for smokes in the technical grade. Also called
Methylthionine Chloride.

Mineral
Jelly

Also
known as Vaseline, Petrolatum or Petroleum Jelly. This acts as a stabilizer in
fireworks and explosives.

Naphthalene

This is a
tar product that you may know better as Moth Flakes or moth balls. Only the
100% pure form should be used in making smoke powders. The melting point is 100
degrees.

Nitric
Acid HNO3

Also
known as Aqua Fortis. It is a clear, colorless corrosive liquid, which fumes in
moist air. It can react violently with organic matter such as Charcoal, Alcohol
or Turpentine and consequently must be handled Very carefully. It is available
in three forms: White fuming, Red Fuming and Concentrated (70 to 71%). The
latter, with a specific gravity of 1.42, is the proper grade to buy. Whatever
grade, avoid contact with the fumes or the liquid. Contact with the skin will
cause it to burn and turn yellow. It is used to manufacture many explosives.

Nitroglycerin C3H5N3O9

A liquid
with a sweet burning taste, but do not taste it or it will produce a violent
headache or acute poisoning. It can be made to explode by rapid heating or
percussion. It is used as an explosive and also to make other explosives.

Nitroguanidine H2NC(NH)NHNO2

A yellow
solid made by dissolving Fuanidine in concentrated Sulfuric Acid and then
diluting with water. Dangerous Explosive.

Nitromethane CH3NO2

An oily,
poisonous liquid, which is used as rocket fuel.

Oil
of Spike

This is a
volatile oil obtained from the leaves of certain trees. Keep this colorless (or
pale yellow) liquid well closed and away from light. It is used in some
fireworks.

Paraffin

This is a
white or transparent wax. It is normally sold in a solid block. You can use it
to make the required powder.

Paranitroanaline
Red
(H2NC6H4)3COH

A dye
used in smoke formulas. It dissolves in alcohol and will melt at 139 degrees.
It is also known as P-Aminophenyl.

Pentaerythritol
Tetranitrate
C5H8N4O12

A high
explosive known as PRTN. Besides being an explosive itself it is used in a
detonating fuse called Primacord.

Perchloryl
Fluoride ClFO3

A gas
under normal air pressure. When brought in contact with alcohol, explosions
have resulted.

Phosphorus P

This
element comes in three forms, with three different ways of reacting. They
resemble each other in name only. Red Phosphorous is the only suitable form for
fireworks and matches. It is a non-poisonous violet-red powder. It will ignite
at 260 degrees. When making a formula containing Phosphorous, be sure to work
with it in a WET STATE. This is a most dangerous chemical to work with and
should be handled only by the most experienced. Oxidizers have been known to
detonate violently without warning when mixed with Red Phosphorous.

Phosphorous
Pentasulfide

Also
known as Phosphoric Sulfide. These light yellow crystals are used in matches.

Phosphorus
Trisulfide P2S3

This
chemical can catch fire from the moisture that is present in air, therefore the
container should be kept tightly capped. The technical grade, purchased as
grayish-yellow masses, is used in making matches.

Picric
Acid

This is
used to bring out and improve the tone of colors in various fireworks. It is
also used to make other chemicals that are used in fireworks and explosives.
Picric Acid can explode from heat or shock. It is interesting to note what it
is called in other countries: Britain - Lyddite; France - Melinite; Japan -
Shimose.

Plaster
of Paris

This is a
white powder, composed mostly of Calcium Sulfate. It is used, by mixing with
water, for end plugs in fireworks and also in some formulas.

Potassium K

A soft
silvery metal element. It will react vigorously with water and several acids.
It is not used directly except for some experiments.

Potassium
Chlorate KClO3

This,
perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was known,
mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to what
fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an
oxidizer. Never ram a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not store
mixtures which contain this chemical for any great length of time, as they may
explode spontaneously.

Potassium
Dichromate
K2CR2O7

Also
known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks and
matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Also used in smokes.

Potassium
Ferrocyanide
K4Fe(CN)6.3H2O

Lemon
yellow crystals or powder which will decompose at high temperatures. It is used
in the manufacture of explosives.

Potassium
Nitrate KNO3

Commonly
called Saltpeter; this chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at 400 degrees.
It is well known as a component in gunpowder and is also used in other firework
pieces. Available as a white powder.

Potassium
Perchlorate
KClO4

Much more
stable than its Chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or slightly pink
powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to make the formula safer.
It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make up for this, it gives off
more oxygen. It is also poisonous.

Potassium
Picrate
C6H2KN3O7

A salt of
Picric Acid, this chemical comes in yellow, reddish or greenish crystals. It
will explode when struck or heated. It is used in fireworks.

Potassium
Thiocyanate KCNS

Colorless
or white crystals which are used to make the Pharaoh's Serpent. The commercial
grade or pure grade is suitable.

n-Propyl
Nitrate C3H7NC2

Prepared
from Silver Nitrate and n-Propyl Bromide and is used as a jet propellant.

Red
Gum

Rosin
similar to shellac and can often replace it in many firework formulas. Red gum
is obtained from the bark of trees.

Rhodamine
B

A basic
fluorescent organic pigment also known as Rhodamine Red. Available in green or
red crystals or powder. It is used in smoke formulas.

Shellac

An
organic rosin made from the secretion of insects which live in India. The exact
effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums. The common
mixture of Shellac and Alcohol sold in hardware stores should be avoided.
Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.

Silver
Fulminate AgONC

A
crystalline salt similar to Mercury Fulminate but more sensitive. In fact, too
sensitive for commercial blasting. It is used for toy torpedoes and poppers.

Silver
Oxide Ag2O

Dark
brown, odorless powder. It is potentially explosive and becomes increasingly
more so with time. Keep away from Ammonia and combustible solvents. The
technical grade, which is about 92% pure, is suitable.

Sodium
Aluminum Fluoride
Na3AlF6

Also
known as mineral, Cryolite. It is used in fireworks in the white powdered form.

Sodium
Bicarbonate
NaHCO3

When a
formula calls for this chemical, you can use Baking Soda (NOT Baking Powder).
It is a white, non-poisonous powder.

Sodium
Carbonate NaCO3

This
white powder is used in fireworks, but not to any great extent. The anhydrous
grade is best.

Sodium
Chlorate NaClO3

An
oxidizer similar to Potassium Chlorate, although not as powerful and also with
the disadvantage of absorbing water. Decomposes at 325 degrees.

Sodium
Chloride NaCl

This is
used in fireworks. You can use the common form, table salt (or rock salt if
made into a powder).

Sodium
Nitrate NaNO3

Also
known as Chile Saltpeter; very similar to Saltpeter, (Potassium Nitrate). It is
used where large amounts of powder are needed in fireworks and explosives. It
will absorb water as do other sodium salts.

Sodium
Oxalate Na2C2O4

This is
not a strong poison, but is poisonous, and you should not come in contact with
it or breathe the dust for any prolonged period. The technical grade is best
for making yellow fires.

Sodium
Perchlorate
NaClO4H2O

This
chemical is used in fireworks and explosives. It is very similar to Potassium
Perchlorate with the exception that it will absorb water.

Sodium
Peroxide Na2O2

A
yellowish-white powder. It can explode or ignite in contact with organic
substances.

Sodium
Picrate

Very
similar to Potassium Picrate and should be handled with the same precautions.
It is also known under the name of Sodium Trinitrophenolate.

Sodium
Silicate
Na2SlO3.9H2O

This
chemical, commonly called water glass, is used as a fireproof glue. It is
available in syrupy solution and can be thinned with water if necessary. When
dry it resembles glass, hence the name. It can, when desired, be thickened with
calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, powdered silica, or fiberglass (chopped) if
extra strength is desired.

Stearin

Colorless,
odorless, tasteless, soapy crystal or powder. Sometimes referred to as Stearic
Acid. Purchase the technical grade, powder. It can often take the place of
Sulphur and Charcoal in fireworks.

Strontium
Carbonate SrCO3

Known in
the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a red color
to fires. It comes as a white powder in a pure, technical or natural state.

Strontium
Chloride
SrCl2.6H2O

A
colorless or white granulated chemical used in pyrotechnics. It will absorb
water and is not used often.

Strontium
Nitrate Sr(NO3)2

By far
the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires.
Available in the technical powder grade. An oxidizer with 45% oxygen and
absorbs water.

Strontium
Sulfate SrSO4

This does
not absorb water as quickly as nitrate and is used when storage is necessary.
In its natural state it is known as Celestine, which compares to grades used in
fireworks.

Sulphur
(Sulfur) S

For
example type II burns at 250 degrees giving off choking fumes. Purchase good
pyro grades low in acid. Used in many types of fireworks and explosives.

Sulfuric
Acid H2SO4

Also
called Oil of Vitriol, it is a clear liquid with the consistency of a thin
syrup. Bottles should be kept tightly closed as it is a very corrosive and
dangerous chemical. It has a great affinity for water and will absorb it from
any source. The effect can be a charred surface or fire. The grade used in
explosives is 93-98%.

Sulfur
Trioxide SO3

This
powder will combine with water with explosive violence to form Sulfuric Acid.
If brought in contact with wood flour and a drop of water is added, a fire will
start. It is used to make some explosives.

Trinitrotoluene (NO2)3C6H2CH3

Commonly
known as TNT. The poisonous crystals are colorless in the pure state. It is
more powerful and expensive than Dynamite. If not confined it will burn like
dynamite. Used as a high explosive and to make others.

Wood
Flour

This is
merely another name for sawdust or wood meal. It is used in fireworks and
explosives.

Zinc Zn

Of all
the forms, only the dust is suitable in the technical or high purity grade. It
is a gray powder used in star mixtures and for fuel in model rockets.

Zinc
Borate
3ZnO.2B2O3

A white
amorphous powder used in making smoke formulas. A relatively safe compound to
handle.

Zinc
Carbonate ZnCO3

Another
white Zinc compound used in some smoke formulas. Also a safe compound to
handle.

Zinc
Oxide ZnO

Sometimes called Flowers of Zinc. This is a white or yellowish
powder used in some firework formulas. It has also found use as a thickening
agent in water glass when a stronger pyro paste is desired.

The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to
do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:

Ingredients:

·1
large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not
use staples)

·The
dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.

-Measure out the
appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near
opposite corners of the sheet.

-Pick up the sheet
by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders toroll towards the middle of the sheet.

-By raising one corner and
then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open
sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends.

-Pour the powder
off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use
airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from
people, houses, and valuable items.

As with many hobbies, pyrotechnics requires some tools. For what I
do, it's usually all pretty simple stuff. When you get into real pyrotechnics,
you need things like ball mills, presses, and star rollers. For some info on
those things, click here and here.

Scales:

A good scale is an absolute must for real pyrotechnics. When
measuring compositions, all measurements are done by weight, so you need an
accurate scale. Postal scales that use a spring are crap and are not suitable
for accurate measurements. You need either a digital scale or a tripe beam
balance.

My digital scale:

I didn't shop around when I bought my scale, so I got ripped off!
I bought the "MX-200 Pyro Scale" for $90 and later found it on eBay for much less. There are many
different places that sell scales, and you should get one with 0.1g accuracy.

Ball mills are very important to the serious pyrotechnician
because they are needed to make good blackpowder at home and to mill powders
finely. You can either buy one or make one and rock tumblers often work just as
well (some ball mills are just rock tumblers with a different name).

The "ball mills" UN sells are Lortone rock/jewelry tumblers, but from what I've heard, they work very
well. The Lortone website has them listed much cheaper than UN sells them, so you should check it out. eBay is also a
place to find them, but after shipping it might not be any cheaper.

Making a bal mill can be a good project if you like building
things, and it will be a lot cheaper than buying one. A few pages on making
your own:

A mortar and pestle are very useful for grinding up chemicals into
powder. For larger amounts or for making black powder you will obviously want a
ball mill, but for small amounts a mortar and pestle can be very useful. They
can be purchased at cooking stores and chemistry supply stores/websites.

Mortar and Pestle:

Coffee Grinder:

Coffee grinders are somewhere between a mortal and pestle and a
ball mill. I find some of the best things to use them for is to grind prilled
KNO3 and NH4NO3. Some people also use them to grind Al foil before they ball
mill it to make rather large flake Al powder. I got mine for $11.

Coffee grinder:

Glassware:

Glassware is used more often to make HE's than to be used for
LE's. The basics are shown here, flasks, graduated cylinders and thermometers.

Assorted glassware:

Electric Hotplate:

Hotplates can be used for a number of things related to pyrotechnics/explosives.
You could use it for melting KNO3/sucrose, boiling 3% H2O2 to concentrate, or
any other procedure like TNP that requires heating. You could get a fancy one
specifically for lab use that will get hotter and do it faster, or you can buy one
intended for home use. I bought a "Toastmaster" hotplate for $20 at a
large hardware/appliance store.

Hotplate:

There are plenty of basic tools that will often come in handy,
that are a lot cheaper also!

Ignition supplies:

You will definitely need something to light your devices (unless
you are using electrical ignition) so these are some of the most basic things.
A lighter and matches are both good, but are not ideal for directly lighting
fuses. A better choice is a punk. Punks are pretty much just a stick with
sawdust or something on them. They look and burn like incense, but without the
smell. Because you have a constant coal, they work very well for lighting
fuses. Just be sure not to light your device and then toss your lit punk into a
pile of dry grass! There are two general sizes, incense size and much larger
ones that I like better.

Protection:

Safety is a very important part of pyro, as it can be a fairly
dangerous hobby. Your eyes are very vulnerable, so you should were eye
protection while working with devices and setting them off. There are several different
choices of protection, either eye or full face. Choose what to wear depending
on what you are doing. It would of course be best to have full face protection
at all times, but it isn't always essential.

Hand protection should be used whenever you are working with
something that has the potential to ignite. Leather gloves should be worn for
best protection. While working with powders, you should were a dust mask to
keep particles out of your nose, mouth, throat and lungs. Check MSDS sheets for
specific precautions for different chemicals. A respirator is a good thing to
have sometimes, IÌll probably buy one myself before too long.

Knives:

Knives have all kinds of uses, and can often be used for things
such as cutting open firework casings. There are millions of things to do with
a knife, not just pyro related. Buy a good one and it should last you a long
time.

Light:

You will probably set off some of your devices at night, and it's
a good idea to be able to see where you are going! This is very basic, so it
can sometimes be forgotten. Maglites are good, but I really like a lightweight
LED headlamp because you don't need your hands and it is very bright.

Pliers/cutters:

Pliers can both be useful for things like peeling casings or
crushing powder. I use wire cutters for things like cutting the sticks off
bottle rockets for making a Can o Rockets.

If you think of any other tools I forgot, feel free to email me
and I'll add them.

An explosive is any material that, when ignited by
heat or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process
releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light,
or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume
that the original piece of material. Because this expansion is very
rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding gases. This
expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic
boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion.
Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which detonate, low
order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may do both.

High order explosives detonate. A detonation
occurs only in a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred
by a shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive
material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the
atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound
traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and
oxidizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and
re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium
nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.

Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or
undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxidizer(s) combine to produce
heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about
the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as black powder.
Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much
faster and hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a
firearm; they usually burn much slower than black powder when they are ignited
in unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.

Primers are peculiarities to the explosive
field. Some of them, such as mercury fulminate, will function as a low or
high order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat,
or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a
high order explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still
others merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate and
with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a
small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order explosive, as in
an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low
order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of
its primer.

There
are hundreds of formulas fordynamite and there is no set standard for
detonation speed, color, or size. Dynamite with
nitroglycerin as an ingredient is becoming rare. Nitroglycerin
dynamite will crystalize after a long period of storage. A sudden
temperature difference of 3 degrees can cause these crystals to
detonate without warning.

Most, if not all, of the information in this
publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There
are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by
telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear
frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is
presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can
be purchased from.It also includes
fireworks companies and the like.

COMPANY NAME AND
ADDRESS
WHAT COMPANY SELLS
________________________
__________________

*Any high school or college science or MST classroom has a buch of good
chemicals that are very useful in making many things in this book.Obviously you’l have to steal what you need,
so be careful; if you are caught, you problley be arrested and/or expelled.

Skylighter-http://www.skylighter.com/-Probably the biggest and best
online supplier. They have a massive product selection and good prices.
They have many books and videos on pyrotechnics, as well as high quality pyro
tools. You must be on file with them to order, which means sending a copy of
your drivers license or other ID.

Firefox-http://www.firefox-fx.com/- Similar selection to Skylighter.
They have some products Skylighter does not and vice versa. You must be on file
with them to order.

Iowa Pyro Supply-http://www.iowapyrosupply.com/-I don't really know much about
this place, but they seem to have a good reputation on rec.pyrotechnics. Good
selection and prices, you must be on file to order.

Pyrotek-http://www.pyrotek.org/cgi-bin/newCataloger.cgi- Pyrotek sells a wide variety of
pyro, rocketry and chemistry supplies. They have a large selection and decent
prices. Warning! I have heard some bad things about this place. For example, I
got an email from somebody saying they ordered fuse here, never got it, and did
not get their money back. I have also heard from numerous people who report
having no problems at all. I have ordered from them with no problems.

United Nuclear-http://www.unitednuclear.com/-No ID required, they have a lot
of good products, but prices are very high for many things. Shop around before
buying here. The no longer carry things like KClO4 and dark flake Al because
too many losers ordered them and got in trouble.

Stanford Systems Aerospace-http://www.ssaerospace.com/-A rocketry supplier. Warning!
Many people (including myself) have ordered from here and had serious delays or
have not received orders. DO NOT ORDER FROM HERE!

EBay-http://www.ebay.com/- You can sometimes find chemicals like kno3, sulfur, and
potassium perchlorate here, but prices will most likely not be very good.

Cannonfuse.com-http://www.cannonfuse.com/- They sell fuse and one size of
tubes, along with a few books and plans. You do not have to be on file and can
pay with cash. I have ordered from here with quick service, the price for fuse
is far better than United Nuclear.

Description: Ammonium chloride is used in
smoke compositions. When heated ammonium chloride decomposes to HCl and NH3,
both gasses. These recombine in the air to give a smoke consisting of fine
particles of ammonium chloride.

Hazards: Ammonium chloride based smoke is
irritating to the eyes and lungs as it contains some remaining HCl and NH3.
Ammonium chloride itself is not poisonous and is even used in some type of
candy. According to Shimizu ammonium chloride forms an exception to the rule
that ammonium compounds should not be mixed with chlorates. Due to the lower
solubility of potassium chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate) no ammonium
chlorate . I personally would still use these mixtures with great caution (or
avoid them) since it seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate
will still form. The lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the
-main- product in a double decomposition reaction but not the -only- product.

Sources: Ammonium chloride solution is
easily prepared by neutralising ammonia solution with hydrochloric acid. It is
advised to use a slight excess of ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining
acid will be present in the ammonium chloride obtained on evaporation and
crystallisation. Otherwise traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the
crystals, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it.

Description: Ammonium nitrate is an oxidiser.
It is very hygroscopic and therefore not used very often in fireworks. It finds
some use in composite propellants, but performance is not as good as
perchlorate based propellants.

Hazards: Large masses of ammonium nitrate
have been known to explode on some occasions although it is very unsensitive.
Smaller quantities are less likely to detonate. The risk of detonation
increases when ammonium nitrate is molten or mixed with fuels such as metal
powders or organic substances. Ammonium nitrate should never be mixed with
chlorates as this may result in ammonium chlorate formation, possibly leading
to spontaneous ignition. Mixtures of metal powders and ammonium nitrate are
likely to heat up spontaneously and may ignite, especially when moist. This can
sometimes be prevented by the addition of small amounts of boric acid (1 to
2%), but in general it is better to avoid these mixtures at all. The
hygroscopic nature of ammonium nitrates makes this problem worse.

Sources: Ammonium nitrate solution can be
prepared by neutralising ammonia solution with nitric acid. It is advised to
use a slight excess of ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining acid will be
present in the ammonium nitrate obtained on evaporation and crystallisation.
Otherwise traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly
leading to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it. Large quantities of
ammonium nitrate can also be cheaply bought as fertilizer. In the Netherlands a
fertilizer called 'kalkammonsalpeter' is sold. This consists of ammonium
nitrate mixed with 'mergel', a mineral consisting mainly of calcium carbonate.
The ammonium nitrate can be extracted with water.

Description: Ammonium perchlorate is an
oxidiser used in a large number of compositions. Very impressive color
compositions can be made with it, but their burn rate is often too low for use
in star compositions. For lancework and torches slow burning is an advantage
and it is therefore commonly used in these items. Ammonium perchlorate is also
used in composite rocket propellants, including the propellants used in the
solid propellant boosters used for the space shuttle. The decomposition
products of ammonium perchlorate are all gasses which is very beneficial for
rocket propellants.

Hazards: Ammonium perchlorate can
detonate by itself, although it is not very sensitive. Larger amounts and
mixtures of ammonium perchlorate with metal powders or organic substances are
more likely to detonate.

Sources: Ammonium perchlorate is usually
bought from chemical suppliers or from dedicated pyro suppliers. Fine ammonium
perchlorate powder is a regulated substance in most countries and cannot easily
be bought or transported. Since it is such a usefull chemical in pyrotechnics
it can be worth the time and effort to try to prepare it at home. This can be
done by first making sodium perchlorate followed by double decomposition with
ammonium chloride (other ammonium compounds can be used). The preparation of
sodium perchlorate is most easily accomplished by electrolysis, the procedure
for which is described elsewhere on this page.

Description: Barium carbonate is used both in
white and green color compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a
composition a green color will result from the formation of BaCl+ in
the flame. Without chlorine donors BaO will be formed which emits white light.
Barium carbonate is convenient to use in chlorate based color compositions
since it will neutralize residual acid which reduces the risk of spontaneous
ignition.

Hazards: Most barium compounds are very
poisonous, especially the more soluble barium compounds such as the chlorate
and nitrate. A dust mask should be worn at all times when working with barium
carbonate.

Sources: Barium carbonate is cheaply
available in kilogram quantities from ceramic supply shops. However, this
material is often contaminated with small amounts of barium sulfide which are
left over from the production process. Therefore, ceramics grade barium
carbonate should never be used in mixtures incompatible with sulfides such as
chlorate based mixtures. Barium carbonate is not easily made at home.

Description: Barium chlorate is used as an
oxidiser in green color compositions. Fierce burning and high color purity
compositions can be made with it.

Hazards: Barium chlorate is poisonous and
a dust mask should be worn at all times when handling it. Barium chlorate
should never be mixed with sulfur or sulfides or allowed to come in contact
with mixtures containg sulfur or sulfides since this could result in
spontaneous ignition. (Sulfur reacts with water and air to form small amounts
of sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid and chlorates react producing ClO2, an
explosive gas which will ignite many organic materials on contact). Mixtures
made with barium chlorate are often especially sensitive to friction and shock
(even more so than potassium chlorate based mixtures) and should be handled
with extra care.

Sources: Barium chlorate is usually
purchased from chemical suppliers or from dedicated pyro suppliers. It can be
made at home from sodium chlorate and barium chloride by double decomposition.
Barium chlorate can also be prepared from barium chloride by electrolysis in a
process analogous to that used for preparing sodium chlorate.

Description: Barium nitrate is used as an
oxidiser in both white and green color compositions. When chlorine donors are
present in a composition a green color will result from the formation of BaCl+
in the flame. Without chlorine donors BaO will be formed which emits bright
white light. Barium nitrate is seldom used as the sole oxidiser in green color
compositions. It is usually combined with perchlorates to improve the color and
increase the burning rate.

Hazards: Barium nitrate is poisonous and
a dust mask should be worn at all times when handling it. Mixtures of metal
powders and barium nitrate sometimes heat up spontaneously and may ignite,
especially when moist. This can usually be prevented by the addition of small
amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%). It is advisable to avoid using water to bind
such compositions. Red gum or shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer
are preffered binder and solvents.

Sources: Barium nitrate may be prepared
from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate and barium carbonate, which is available
from ceramic supply stores.

Description: Barium sulfate is used as a
high-temperature oxidiser in some metal based green color compositions.

Hazards: Unlike many other barium
compounds, barium sulfate is not very poisonous due to its low solubility in
water.

Sources: Barium sulfate may be
precipitated from a solution of a soluble barium salt, such as barium nitrate
or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both cheaply
available as fertilizer and are convenient to use. The precipitated barium
sulfate is a very fine powder which may be rinsed by repeated washings with hot
water, settling and decanting. A final washing in the filter with acetone or
ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid to precipitate
barium sulfate as this may result in the inclusion of acid droplets in the
precipitated particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.

Description: Boric acid is a white powder
which is used as an additive to compositions containing aluminum or magnesium
and a nitrate. The metal powder can reduce the nitrate to an amide which will
react with the metal powder in a very exothermic reaction that can lead to
spontaneous ignition of the composition. This process is often accompanied by a
smell of ammonia and is most likely to occur with wet compositions. Addition of
a few percent boric acid can often prevent this reaction from taking place
since it neutralizes the very basic amides forming ammonia and a borate. It is
also advisable to avoid using a water soluble binder for these composition.
Using red gum or shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer is safer.

Hazards: Boric acid is not particularly
toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Boric acid is cheaply and in
kilogram quantities available from ceramic supply shops. It is also sold in
many drug stores at a somewhat higher price, but since only small quantities
are needed the price is not really important.

Description: The trihydrate is commonly known
as plaster of paris. The dihydrate occurs as a mineral known as gypsum . Calcium
sulphate can be used as a high temperature oxidiser in orange color
compositions. Excellent strobe compositions can be made with it.

Hazards: Calcium sulphate is not
particularly toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Plaster can be used as is in
strobe compositions, but is better to remove the water which is easily
accomplished by heating.

Description: Dextrine is one of the most
commonly used binders in pyrotechincs as it is very cheap and readily
available. It is water soluble and can produce rock hard stars.

Hazards: Colophonium is not particularly
toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Dextrine is easily prepared from
starch. Potato and corn starch will both work fine. The starch is spread out on
a sheet in a layer about 1 cm thick and placed in the oven. The oven is then
heated to 220°C for several hours. The dextrine will turn slightly yellowish
brown. One way to check if all the starch has been converted is to dissolve a
small sample in boiling hot water and add a drop of KI3 solution. A
blue color indicates presence of starch, which means the conversion hasn't
completed yet. KI3 solution is conveniently prepared by dissolving a
crystal of elemental iodine in a potassium iodide solution.

Description: Ethanol is used as a solvent.
Red gum and shellac, two common binders both dissolve in ethanol well.
Ethanol/water mixtures are also often used since the ethanol increases the
'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface tension of the water) and
reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.

Hazards: Ethanol is flammable and
volatile. Ethanol vapour is heavier than air and spreads over the ground.
Provide adequate ventilation when working with ethanol.

Sources: Chemically pure ethanol can be
quite expensive due to increased tax, unless it is used for laboratory
purposes. Denaturated alcohol (usually a mixture of ethanol and methanol) has
been made undrinkable and therefore a lot cheaper. It can be used for pyro
purposes. Some types of denaturated alcohol exist with other chemicals mixed in
besides methanol to make it undrinkable and recognisable as such (colorants
etc). I have no idea what these extra additives are and wheter they can cause
problems in compositions. I have been using 'spiritus' (a well known type of
denaturated alcohol in the Netherlands) for several years without problems.

Description: Iron powder is used for spark
effects, mainly in fountains and sparklers. It produces golden yellow branching
sparks. Not every iron alloy will work equally well. Iron alloys with a high
carbon content generally work best. Stainless steel will produce hardly any
sparks.

Hazards: Iron needs to be protected
before use in pyrotechnic compositions. Otherwise it will corrode and render
the composition useless or even dangerous. Iron containing compositions are
generally best kept dry and not bound with water soluble binders. Iron can be
coated with linseed or tung oil. The latter was used in ancient China (and may
still be used today). Linseed is very convenient to use and easy to obtain.
Blackpowder-like compositions (ie Charcoal/sulfur/saltpeter based) with added
metal, such as they are often used in fountains, are more sensitive than the
composition without added metal. Extra caution, especially when pressing or
ramming, should be excersised.

Sources: Iron turnings can often be had
for free from places were iron is used for construction. Drilling, sawing etc
produces a powder with wide range of particles. This powder is treated with
mineral oil to remove oil and grease, sieved, and then coated with linseed oil.

Description: Red iron oxide is used as a
catalyst in composite and whistling rocket propellant formulations. It is also
added to some glitter formulations and used for 'thermite', a mixture that
produces enormous amounts of heat, forming molten iron.

Hazards: Red iron oxide is not
particularly toxic or dangerous.

Sources: Common rust is not iron oxide.
It is a mixture of oxides and hydroxides. A cheap source for red iron oxide is
the ceramics supply shop.

Description: Lead tetraoxide, sometimes
called 'lead minium', is used to make crackling microstars. The composition is
very sensitive, explosive and poisonous. It is in fact one of the most
dangerous mixtures used commonly in modern pyrotechnics. An alternative mixture
based on bismuth trioxide exists (which is less poisonous), but the high price
of bismuth trioxide restricts its use.

Hazards: Lead tetraoxide, like most lead
compounds, is extremely poisonous. Lead is an accumulative neurotoxin and
extreme care should be taken to prevent direct contact. Lead tetraoxide may be
absorbed by inhalation and ingestion. Wear a respirator, gloves, and protective
clothing.

Sources: Lead tetraoxide may be prepared
from a solution of lead nitrate and sodium hydroxide. Note that the procedure
involves extremely corrosive and poisonous chemicals and should only be
attempted by those who have access to (and know how to use) the right equipment
and can handle the waste properly. Prepare a concentrated solution of sodium
hydroxide by dissolving 300 grams of sodium hydroxide in water. The solution
will heat up during this. To prevent it from boiling suddenly add only small
portions at a time. When all has dissolved, allow it to cool down to room
temperature. Dissolve 50 grams of lead nitrate in 200 ml of water, and slowly
add the sodium hydroxide solution to this solution while stirring continuesly.
A white precipitate will form first, which will turn orange when all sodium
hydroxide solution has been added. Stir this solution well for another hour,
and then allow the lead tetraoxide to settle. Carefully decant the supernatant,
add boiling hot water to the residue, stir, allow to settle and decant again.
Repeat this 5 more times. Then filter and rinse the lead tetraoxide in the
filter several times with hot water.

Description: Manganese dioxide can be used as
a catalyst in composite and whistling rocket propellant formulations. A
thermite-like mixture can also be made with it. The manganese dioxide thermite
burns more slowly than the iron oxide based mixture with a bright white glow.

Hazards: Mangese dioxide is poisonous and
leaves brown stains on glassware etc. The stains can be removed with dilute
hydrochloric acid (of course, only when the stained object is not attacked by
it).

Sources: Mangese dioxide can be obtained
from old batteries or from the ceramics supply store. The mangese dioxide in
batteries is mixed with several other compounds from which it must be
separated. An easy, though messy way to do this is as follows: Find a couple of
depleted carbon-zinc batteries. Only carbon-zinc type batteries will do. Do not
use other types such as rechargable or lithium based batteries. These,
especially the rechargable ones, contain extremely dangerous and/or poisonous
compounds such as cadmium, mercury and metallic lithium. Carbon-zinc batteries
may contain small amounts of mercury as well, especially the older types, so
precautions should be taken to prevent skin and eye contact and to prevent
breathing or swallowing of dust. So: wear your dust mask, glasses, gloves and
old clothing. Then carefully take the battery apart. You'll find a greyish
white (zinc oxide) or metallic coating (zinc metal) inside, depending on wheter
the battery is empty or not. This surrounds a black, sometimes wet, mass. This
black stuff contains among other things the mangese dioxide. Peel the coating
off and save the black mass. There is also a black rod inside attached to the
anode. This is a graphite rod and can be safed for chlorate (and maybe
perchlorate) preparations. We'll assume you use 2 batteries from here on. (if
not, adjust amounts accordingly). Place the black mass in 200 ml of 30%
hydrochloric acid. The manganese dioxide will slowly dissolve, giving off
chlorine gas. Chlorine gas is dangerous: it attacks the lungs and is poisonous.
Do this outside or better yet: in a fume hood if you have one. Allow the
manganese dioxide several days to dissolve. The solution is then filtered which
should yield a clear solution of manganese(III)chloride. In a separate
container dissolve 200 grams of sodium hydroxide in a liter of bleach. Add the
manganese(III)chloride solution slowly to the bleach/sodium hydroxide solution.
This results in a brown precipitate of manganese dioxide which is filtered,
rinsed several times with boiling hot water and dried.

Description: Magnalium is a very brittle
alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Some common uses are in for spark effects, in
strobing compositions and in crackling stars. It is commonly alloyed in

Hazards: Magnalium dust is harmfull and a
dust mask should be worn when handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates
and mangalium sometimes heat up and may ignite spontaneously, especially when
moist. This can usually be prevented by treating the magnalium with potassium
dichromate. This is done by boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate
solution. Adding fine potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also
help.

Sources: Magnalium can be made at home.
Plan well and prepare yourself for working with molten metals that may ignite
if you plan to make it at home. If the metal ignites expect it to burn very
brightly and hot. Explosions are not common but may occur if the hot melt is
allowed to contact water or oxidisers. Do it outside and away from anything
flammable. If it ignites don't try to extuingish it but get away from the
burning mass and let it burn out and cool before approaching it. Don't look
directly into the burning metal as it may damage your eyes. Start by melting
aluminum in a stainless steel container. The molten metal should be covered
with a blanked of inert gas. In this case neither nitrogen nor carbon dioxide
will function as an inert gas. It is best to get a cylinder of argon gas at a
welding supply store. Using an electric furnace for the melting is very
convenient and allows good control over the temperature. To the molten aluminum
magnesium is added in solid form. The melt should be stirred from time to time.
When all the magnesium has melted, the melt is allowed to solidify. It is then
easily crushed up in smaller chunks with an heavy hammer. These chunks are
crushed further and sieved. It can also be ball milled into a fine powder using
steel media but this can be dangerous since the metal powder can become
pyrophoric.

Description: Magnesium powder is used in a
wide variety of compositions, both for spark effects and 'normal' fuel
purposes. Relatively coarse magnalium is used for spark effects. In flares and
some bright colored star compositions it functions as a normal fuel. It is
superior to aluminum in color compositions since MgCl2 and MgO are more easily
vaporised than the corresponding aluminum compounds. This reduces the amount of
black-body radiation and improves the color purity.

Hazards: Magnesium dust is harmfull and a
dust mask should be worn when handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates
and magnesium sometimes heat up and may ignite spontaneously, especially when
moist. This can usually be prevented by treating the magnesium with potassium
dichromate. This is done by boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate
solution. The magnesium will turn brown when this is done. Adding fine
potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also help.

Sources: Making magnesium at home is very
difficult. Magnesium can be bought in boating supply stores. It is used to
prevent corrosion of a ships hull. For that purpose it is welded to the hull.
The lower position of magnesium in the electrochemical series will make the
magnesium corrode before the steel will. Making such a block of magnesium into
a fine powder will not be easy. Filing or cutting and ball milling may be
tried. Ball milling of metals can be dangerous however since the metal can
become pyrophoric.

Description: Methanol is used as a solvent,
much in the same way ethanol is used. Red gum and shellac, two common binders
both dissolve in methanol. Methanol/water mixtures are also often used since
the methanol increases the 'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface
tension of the water) and reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.

Hazards: Methanol is flammable, volatile
and toxic. Methanol vapour is heavier than air and spreads over the ground.
Provide adequate ventilation when working with methanol

Sources: Methanol is often more cheaply
and easily availble than ethanol because it is toxic and no extra taxes are
charged for it. It finds use in a certain type of camping stove and can often
be bought in camping supply stores.

Description: Parlon is a acetone-soluble
polymere that is used as a chlorine donor and binder. It is a good example of
one of the new chemicals that has become available in the past few decades for
use in compositions.

Hazards: Parlon is not particularly dangerous.

Sources: Parlon seems to be available
from dedicated pyro suppliers only.

Description: Potassium benzoate is commonly
used in whistle compositions. It is a white powder

Hazards: Potassium benzoate is not particularly
dangerous.

Sources: Potassium benzoate can be
prepared from benzoic acid and potassium carbonate or hydroxide. Benzoic acid
is not very soluble, but both potassium carbonate and hydroxide are. Dissolve
140.2g potassium carbonate or 56.1g potassium carbonate in 250 ml water, and
add 146g benzoic acid. Bring the mixture to a boil. If potassium carbonate is
used, CO2 gas will evolve. Continue boiling untill all benzoic acid
has dissolved, occasionally adding some water to make up for what has evaporated.
When all benzoic acid has dissolved, continue boiling untill the first crystals
of potassium benzoate are observed (ie the saturation point has been reached).
Then allow the solution to cool to room temperature. Potassium benzoate will
crystalise in needle shaped crystals. Filter, and rinse the crystals twice with
ice-cold water. The crystals may be dried in an oven at 100 deg C.

Description: Potassium chlorate is a very
common oxidiser in pyrotechnics, even though it has some treacherous properties
and other oxidisers would sometimes be safer to use. Part of the reason of its
popularity in commercial pyrotechnics is that it is cheap and easily available.
The large scale production of this compound made the first quality colored
fireworks possible, about a century ago.

Hazards: Potassium chlorate is toxic, and
breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder. Compositions
made with potassium chlorate tend to be more sensitive than those based on nitrates
and perchlorates and should therefore be handled accordingly. Potassium
chlorate, or any chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination
with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may
spontaneously ignite. In general, when using chlorates great care should be
taken to avoid contamination of other compositions or tools. Also read the safety
section for more information on this problem.

Sources:
Potassium
chlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium chlorate is prepared
first by electrolysis. It may also be obtained as a herbicide in some countries
(France, for example) Then, by double decomposition with potassium chloride,
potassium chlorate is prepared from this solution. The product is recrystallised,
dried and powdered.

This chemicals is used in many explosives.Potassium chlorate can also be made into
plastique explosives(*See Chapter 8-High Order Explosives).Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted in the procedure that
follows.

Materials:

-A heat source (hot
plate, stove, etc.)

-A hydrometer, or
battery hydrometer

-A large Pyrex, or
enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)

-Potassium
chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Procedure:

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride
and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being
heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a
battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed
and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the
crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled
water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution
and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is
called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.

*Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently
to drive off all moisture.

Description: Potassium dichromate is a bright
orange crystalline subststance that is used to treat magnesium powder. The
treatment makes magnesium more resistant to spontaneous reactions that could
result in lower reliability of the mixture or spontaneous ignition.

Hazards: Potassium dichromate is toxic
and a carcinogen. It should be handled with extreme care and proper protective
clothing.

Sources: Potassium dichromate seems to be
available from chemical suppliers and dedicated pyro suppliers only.

Description: Potassium perchlorate is a very
common oxidiser in pyrotechnics. Composition based on perchlorates tend to be
less sensitive than those based on chlorates, and perchlorates can be used with
sulfur and sulfides. For these reasons potassium perchlorate is much preferred
above chlorates. Drawback is its slightly higher price.

Hazards: Potassium perchlorate is toxic,
and breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder.

Sources:Potassium perchlorate can be
prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium perchlorate is prepared first by
electrolysis. Then, by double decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium
perchlorate is prepared from this solution. The product is recrystallised,
dried and powdered.

Description: Potassium picrate was first
prepared back in the mid 17th century by J.R. Glauber. The first use for
potassium picrate came in 1869, it found its way into explosives, propellents,
primers, and pyrotechnics. This explosive is stable and resists shock,
friction, etc. It will deflagrate if subjected to flame, and in mixtures with
oxidizing agents, it will only burn if ignited, but it has lower sensitivity.
This is not a very powerful explosive, it is more suited to pyrotechnics and
bullet primers.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

nitric
acid beaker

picric
acid

potassium
carbonate

Potassium picrate can
be prepared by Glaubers original method of dissolving wood in nitric acid then
neutralizing the resulting mixture with potassium carbonate. For the modern
method, neutralize a hot aqueous solution of potassium carbonate with a hot
picric acid solution in a beaker of suitable size, test the solution with
litmus paper until neutral. Filter the crystals that separate when the solution
cools to collect them and allow to dry.

Description: Like parlon and saran, PVC is a
polymeric chlorine donor and fuel. It can be used in the form of a fine powder
or as a solution in tetrahydrofuran (THF). It is sometimes used as a binder,
but it is very brittle. Small amounts of plasticiser (dioctyl phtalate is
common) may be added to improve the mechanical properties.

Hazards: PVC itself is not particularly
dangerous or toxic. Dioctyl phtalate is a suspected carcinogen however and THF
is a very flamable and volatile liquid.

Sources: As an alternative to the PVC
powder available from chemical suppliers and dedicated pyro suppliers, PVC glue
may also be used. It is usually sold in hardware stores and comes in two
varieties: gelling or gap-filling and normal. Both are essentially a
concentrated solution of PVC. I have no experience with the gelling variety,
but the normal variety can succesfully be used in compositions. The gelling
variety may be better suited for pyro purposes since it seems it contains more
PVC. Another possibility is to use 'Sculpy' or 'Fimo' clay. These modelling
clays consist of PVC with a large amount of plasticiser. The plasticiser may
affect the color of a composition negatively, but reasonable results can still
be obtained with it. It can simply be kneaded into a composition with some
effort. This type of clay is usually hardened by heating it in an oven, but do
not be tempted to do this with pyrotechnic mixtures as they may ignite.

6.26 PICRIC ACID:

Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.

1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.

2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.

3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.

4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.

5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.

6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.

7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.

8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.

9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.

10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.

Description: Sodium benzoate is a white solid
that is used as a fuel. It's most common use is in 'whistle mix', a mixture of
potassium perchlorate and either sodium or potassium benzoate.

Hazards: Sodium benzoate is not
particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: Sodium benzoate can be made from
sodium carbonate (soda) or sodium hydroxide and benzoic acid which is often
more easily available than it's salts. Benzoic acid is only sparingly soluble
in water. Dissolve either 425 g hydrated sodium carbonate (common household
soda) or 30 g sodium hydroxide in water. Add 100 g of benzoic acid and boil the
solution. The benzoic acid will slowly dissolve. During boiling, occasionally
add water to make up for what has evaporated. If sodium carbonate was used,
carbon dioxide gas will evolve. After all the benzoic acid has dissolved,
continue boiling allowing the water to evaporate untill crystallisation begins.
Then stop heating and allow the solution to cool slowly to room temperature.
Needle-shaped crystals of sodium benzoate will form upon cooling. Cool the
solution further to 0 deg C, filtrate and rinse the crystals with ice-cold
water. Purify the product by recrystallisation from water.

Description: Sodium chlorate is hardly ever
used in pyrotechnics, since it is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in
composite rocket propellants. It is however very usefull as a starting point in
the preparation of several other (less hygroscopic) chlorates for which reason
it is included here.

Hazards: Sodium chlorate is toxic, and
breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder. Compositions
made with sodium chlorate tend to be more sensitive than those based on
nitrates and perchlorates and should therefore be handled accordingly. Sodium
chlorate, or any chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination
with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may
spontaneously ignite. In general, when using chlorates great care should be
taken to avoid contamination of other compositions or tools. Also read the
safety section for more information on this problem. Acidic solutions
containing chlorates generate a very poisonous and explosive gas, ClO2.

Sources:Sodium chlorate can be prepared
at home. It involves electrolysing a sodium chloride solution under certain
circumstances. A description of the process, cell and anode design, etc. for
home produciton may be found in the chlorate and perchlorate section of this
page. In some countries, France for example, sodium chlorate may be obtained as
a herbicide.

Description: Sodium nitrate finds occasional
use as an oxidiser in flare and tracer compositions because of the high
efficiency of light emmision that can be obtained with it, but its high hygroscopic
nature limits its use. Sodium nitrate can be used to prepare potassium nitrate,
a much less hygroscopic and more often used oxidiser.

Hazards: Sodium nitrate is not
particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: 95% pure sodium nitrate is
available as a fertilizer. In the Netherlands this fertilizer is sold under the
name 'chilisalpeter'. If required, it can be easily purified by
recrystallisation.

Description: Sodium perchlorate is hardly
ever used in pyrotechnics, since it is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional
use in composite rocket propellants. It is however very usefull as a starting
point in the preparation of several other (less hygroscopic) perchlorates for
which reason it is included here.

Hazards: Sodium perchlorate is toxic, and
breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder.

Sources:Sodium perchlorate can be
prepared at home. It involves electrolysing a sodium chlorate solution under
certain circumstances. A description of the process, cell and anode design,
etc. for home produciton may be found in the chlorate and perchlorate section
of this page.

Description: Strontium carbonate is used in
combination with chlorine donors to produce red colors. It also acts as an acid
neutraliser, for which reason it is prefered in chlorate based compositions
(which may spontaneously ignite when traces of acid are present).

Hazards: Strontium carbonate is not
particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: Strontium carbonate is cheaply
available in kilogram quantities from ceramic supply shops. However, this
material is often contaminated with small amounts of strontium sulfide which
are left over from the production process. Therefore, ceramics grade strontium
carbonate should never be used in mixtures incompatible with sulfides such as
chlorate based mixtures. Strontium carbonate is not easily made at home.

Sources: Strontium nitrate may be
prepared from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate and strontium carbonate, which is
available from ceramic supply stores. Use an excess of strontium carbonate to
ensure complete neutralisation of acid and recrystallise the product from a
slightly alkaline solution to prevent the inclusion of acid solvent droplets in
the crystals.

Description: Strontium sulfate is used as a
high-temperature oxidiser in some metal based red color compositions.

Hazards: Strontium sulfate is not
particularly dangerous or toxic.

Sources: Strontium sulfate may be
precipitated from a solution of a soluble strontium salt, such as strontium
nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both
cheaply available as fertilizer and are convenient to use. The precipitated
strontium sulfate is a very fine powder which may be rinsed by repeated
washings with hot water, settling and decanting. A final washing in the filter
with acetone or ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid
to precipitate strontium sulfate as this may result in the inclusion of acid
droplets in the precipitated particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition
of some mixtures.

Description: Sulfuric acid itself finds no
use in pyrotechnics, but it can be used in the preparation of an number of usefull
compounds for which reason it is included here.

Hazards: Sulfuric acid and its fumes are
extremely corrosive. Wear proper protective clothing (gloves, apron and a face
shield are minimal) and provide adequate ventilation when working with it.
Reactions with metals often produce flammable hydrogen gas (hydrogen). The
presence of acid can cause spontaneous reactions in many pyrotechnic mixtures
and should at all times be avoided. When working with sulfuric acid, have no
chemicals or compositions nearby to prevent contamination. Make sure all traces
of acid in chemicals produced with sulfuric acid are removed if they are to be
used in pyrotechnics compositions.

Sources: Sulfur is available from
agricultural supply stores where it is sold as a fungicide under the name
'dusting sulfur'. It is a fine powder mixed with a few percent of calcium
carbonate. The calcium carbonate may disturb delicate color compositions, but
for most purposes dusting sulfur works well. If a purer form of sulfur is
required, sulfur may also be obtained from drug stores sometimes. However,
these often sell 'flowers of sulfur', which has been purified by sublimation
and which contains some acid. This needs to be neutralised before use as it
could cause spontaneous ignition. To do this, allow 100g of this sulfur to soak
in a liter of water/household ammonia (1:5). Stir well occasionally and measure
the pH. It should still be alkaline after two days, after which time the sulfur
may be filtered and washed with hot water to remove the ammonia. Check the pH
of the washing water while filtering. After it has become neutral, flush the
water away with ethanol and allow the sulfur to dry. Mix the dry powder with 2%
magnesium carbonate to neutralise any acid that may be formed in reactions with
the atmosphere.

Description: Metallic zinc is used in rocket
propellants, for spark effects and in white smoke compositions. Zinc powder is
quite heavy and zinc-based stars often require heavier lift or burst charges to
propell them.

Hazards: Zinc powder can spontanesouly
heat up when wet.

Sources: Zinc powder is used in paints
for the protection of steel. Spray cans containing an suspension of zinc powder
are commonly sold in hardware stores. The zinc powder may be extracted by
emptying the spray can in a large container, allowing the powder to settle,
decanting the solvent and paints and repeated washing with paint thinner or
acetone.

A
perchlorate is a chemical functional group, explosive more often then not, with
the formula -ClO4. Since so many pyrotechnic compounds seem to use a
perchlorate somewhere in the mix, it seemed logical to have them here.It is easy to confuse perchlorates with
chlorates, chlorites, and hypochlorites, their formulas are ClO4, ClO3, ClO2,
and ClO respectively. Perchlorate salts are simply the product of a base with
perchloric acid, although organic perchlorates exist as well.

One thing perchlorates share in common is that they are strong
oxidizers, they should be kept away from any reducible materials and excessive
heat. Metal perchlorates tend to be more stable than organic perchlorates. One
of the first perchlorate salts to be identified was potassium perchlorate,
other salts of interest include aluminum perchlorate, ammonium perchlorate,
barium perchlorate, cadmium perchlorate, calcium perchlorate, cobalt
perchlorate, copper perchlorate, hydrazine diperchlorate, iron perchlorate,
lead perchlorate, lithium perchlorate, magnesium perchlorate, manganese
perchlorate, mercury perchlorate, nickel perchlorate, nitrosyl perchlorate,
nitryl perchlorate, silver perchlorate, sodium perchlorate, strontium
perchlorate, titanium tetraperchlorate, uranyl perchlorate, and zinc
perchlorate. Some of these are mere curiosities, their chemical precursors will
not be in the synthesis section. The usual data on safety and use of these
compounds has been omitted as well in the interest of keeping this lab brief.

Set up a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask for refluxing and
liquid addition. The top of the reflux condenser needs to be capped with a
drying tube to protect the reaction from moisture. Heat to reflux some silver
perchlorate in anhydrous methyl alcohol, then slowly add a solution of aluminum
chloride in methyl alcohol drop by drop from the addition funnel. A precipitate
of silver chloride will appear, filter the product to remove the silver
chloride and heat the remaining solution at 150 °C to remove the methyl alcohol
and crystallize the aluminum perchlorate.

Ammonium perchlorate can be prepared in
the lab by carefully neutralizing perchloric acid with either gaseous ammonia
or aqueous ammonium hydroxide. Filter the solution to collect the crystals of
ammonium perchlorate, recrystallize them from water, and dry at 110 °C until a
constant weight is obtained.

Anhydrous calcium perchlorate can be
prepared by heating a mixture of 100 g of calcium carbonate with 235 g of
ammonium perchlorate. Ammonium carbonate will be evolved as a gas, leaving
behind pure calcium perchlorate.

Anhydrous copper perchlorate is prepared
by heating in vacuum at 200 °C a mixture of nitrosyl perchlorate and your
choice of either copper monoxide, copper dichloride, or copper nitrate. It can
also be prepared by reacting copper powder with nitrosyl perchlorate in an organic
solvent.

Hydrazine diperchlorate, or HDP, can be
prepared by reacting equimolar amounts of aqueous barium perchlorate with
hydrazine sulfate. Filter to remove the precipitate of barium sulfate, and
evaporate the filtrate on a water bath to yield crystals of HDP.

Iron perchlorate is prepared by reacting
70% perchloric acid with iron sulfide, or iron sulfate, followed by evaporation
of the solution. Heat the solution very gently to evaporate, strong heating can
cause an explosion.

The trihydrate of lithium perchlorate can
be prepared by reacting lithium sulfate with barium perchlorate in solution,
then evaporating the solution to yield the crystals. It can also be prepared by
reacting lithium carbonate with aqueous perchloric acid.

The hexahydrate of magnesium perchlorate
can be prepared by dissolving pure magnesium oxide in dilute perchloric acid.
Evaporate the solution until fumes appear, then cool. Filter to collect the
crystals of magnesium perchlorate that should have formed, and recrystallize
them from water.

Anhydrous mercury perchlorate can be
prepared by adding a solution of perchloric acid in trifluoroacetic acid to and
mercury salt in trifluoroacetic acid. Carefully evaporate the solution until
crystals form.

The hexaammoniate of nickel perchlorate
can be prepared by adding a solution of 14 g of sodium perchlorate in 50 mL of
water to a solution of 23.8 g of nickel dichloride and 5.4 g of ammonium
chloride in 120 mL of water. Slowly add with stirring 60 mL of concentrated
ammonium hydroxide. Cool this mixture for 4 hours with a salt-ice bath, then
filter to collect the crystals of the perchlorate.

Nitryl perchlorate can be prepared by
distilling anhydrous perchloric acid, allowing the distillate to drip onto a
large excess of dry dinitrogen pentoxide chilled to -80 °C (yes that's
negative) and some nitromethane. The mixture is allowed to warm to room
temperature, then kept under vacuum for 48 hours to remove any volatile
contaminants.

Potassium perchlorate is prepared by
slowly adding 50 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid to 2-5 g of potassium
chlorate. The addition is slow to avoid explosion. Alternately, nitric acid,
phosphoric acid, or chromium trioxide can be used instead of sulfuric acid. It
can also be prepared by mixing potassium chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate in
solid form and heating. A residue of potassium perchlorate will be left behind.

Anhydrous silver perchlorate can be
prepared by adding anhydrous perchloric acid to a solution of a silver salt
dissolved in trifluoroacetic acid. It can also be prepared by dissolving silver
oxide in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporating the solution until crystals
appear.

The monohydrate of sodium perchlorate can
be prepared by dissolving sodium carbonate in a slight excess of dilute
perchloric acid. Evaporate some of the solution, then cool to 50 °C. The solid
can be centrifuged, collected, and dried at 250 °C. The anhydrous can be
obtained by recrystallizing from water above 53 °C.

The monohydrate of strontium perchlorate
can be prepared by dissolving pure strontium nitrate in an excess of perchloric
acid, and neutralizing the acid with strontium carbonate. Centrifuge to collect
waste solids, and chill the liquid until crystals of the perchlorate appear.

The hexahydrate of uranyl perchlorate can
be prepared by dissolving ordinary hardware store brand uranium trioxide in 40%
perchloric acid. Concentrate the solution on a water bath then chill to yield
yellow crystals of the perchlorate.

The hexahydrate of zinc perchlorate can
be prepared by mixing solutions of zinc sulfate and barium perchlorate,
filtering off the precipitate of barium sulfate, and evaporating the solution
until crystals appear. It can also be prepared by zinc oxide, or zinc
carbonate, in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporating the solution until
crystals appear.

Narrowing down a name for this compound is rather tricky. In the
literature is is commonly referred to as acetone peroxide because it is
typically a mixture of isomers. Other literature refers to it as
tricycloacetoneperoxide, triacetonetriperoxide, TATP, AP, TCAP, and 3,3,6,6,9,9-hexamethyl-1,2,4,5,7,8-hexoxonane.
Many types of chemicals react with air and light to form explosive peroxides,
usually this is a bad thing because their formation occurs without intent. A
compound being distilled in the lab may explode if peroxides have formed, this
is why a small amount of liquid is always left undistilled.

This particular formula is intriguing
because of its simplicity to make and the availability of the chemicals used.
This simplicity has made it very popular among fools. Instruction derived from
the Big Book of Mischief, and their loathsome breed, are lacking in
detailed information that may determine a continued success or failure at this
procedure. An abundance of misinformation has led to much confusion about
acetone peroxide. The information presented here is directly from the original
scientific references by the scientists who developed this explosive, not some
"crap book" as listed above. There are actually two isomers of
acetone peroxide, the first is tricyclo acetone peroxide, which is what will be
made here, and the second is dicycloacetone peroxide. Both of these compounds
are very similar, but the reaction seems to favor the tricyclo over the dicyclo
at lower temperatures. The tricyclo isomer is more stable and more powerful
than the dicyclo, that is why every effort is made to prepare the former. Both
isomers will be made in the reaction with the tricyclo being the principal
product. There are also a varity of other peroxides made in this synthesis; see
the reaction scheme below.

Acetone peroxide would have made a decent
military explosive if not for its instability. It can not be stressed enough
how unstable and dangerous acetone peroxide is. As instability goes this is
among the most unstable of other explosives here.

Acetone peroxide is formed by
acid-catalyzed nucleophilic addition. That means an acid helps the peroxide, a
nucleophile, react with the acetone, a ketone. A nucleophile is a "nucleus
lover," or a chemical species that donates electrons. A ketone is a
substance that has the molecular formula R2C=O where R is any carbon chain.
There is some confusion as to which acid to use, the useless internet books
frequently cite hydrochloric acid as the acid to use. The fact is, the acid is
only a catalyst, it does not matter what acid is used, as long as it is a
strong acid. Only inorganic acids fit this criteria. Since the original
literature uses sulfuric acid, this lab uses sulfuric. You may use whichever
acid is the most economical, or available.

Acetone, hydrogen peroxide, and sulfuric
acid, the chemicals used in this lab, are all available over the counter. That
is the real reason this explosive is so popular, it is unfortunate that this
explosive is so dangerous. Since 30% hydrogen peroxide is hard to obtain,
substituting 10 times the volume of commercially available 3% peroxide is
acceptable, although this will lower the yield a bit. It is also advisable to
multiply the volume of acid by a corresponding value.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetone500-mL beaker

ethyl
ethereye dropper

hydrogen
peroxidegraduated cylinder

sulfuric
acidseparatory funnel

distilled
waterstirring rod/stirrer

thermometer

To a 500-mL beaker add 50 mL of acetone,
then stir in 30 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide. Place the beaker in a salt-ice
bath and cool it to 5° C. After cooling, slowly add 3 mL of 75% sulfuric acid
drop by drop with an eye dropper. Stir the mixture continuously while adding
the acid, keep the temperature between 5° C to 10° C, stop adding acid if the
temperature gets to high. It is very important that you moderate the reaction,
high temperatures will lower your yield and cause the formation of the less
useful dicyclo isomer. After adding all the acid, continue stirring for 5
minutes. Keep the mixture in the bath for 1 to 3 hours, or even up to 24 hours.
After sitting, a white precipitate should have formed. Filter the mixture to
collect the crystals, then wash them with 300-500 mL of water. Allow the
crystals to dry before using, keep them damp if storing. For increased purity,
add the precipitate to ethyl ether and let it dissolve. Place the ethyl ether
solution in a separatory funnel and wash by shaking with three portions of cold
water. Add the ethyl ether solution to a beaker and heat it on a steam bath to
evaporate the ethyl ether. It should take about 3 hours to dry. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer
for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

I would suggest making this explosive
shortly before it is desired to use it as it is never wise to keep unstable
primary explosives around too long. It can be stored rather safely under water
for some time. If allowed to stand in the open it will vaporize after some
weeks. If stored in a sealed container it may crystallize into the crevaces of
the cap which could detonate from the friction of opening. Mixing with RDX,
PETN, or picric acid will improve the stability of this explosive.

Nitrogen triiodide, also called ammonium
triiodide, is a very unstable explosive that's not really practical due
to its tremendous instability and cost. When wet it is stable but when dry the
touch of a feather can cause it to detonate. Wet nitrogen triiodide should be
spread out as much as possible or numerous small piles made. When dry the
nitrogen triiodide will not explode from its own weight if spread out, a single
large pile will.

The high cost of iodine, anywhere from $60
to $100 for a 500 g bottle, and its rarity, make it impractical from an
economic standpoint. Those useless anarchist texts say iodine can be purchased
in drug stores, it is sold in very tiny amounts heavily diluted with alcohol.
The drug dealers have made iodine a restricted chemical, very few drug stores
even carry it now, there are safer alternatives. The simplicity in which this
explosive can be made gives wanna be punks an excuse to try. THIS EXPLOSIVE IS
ONLY A CURIOSITY AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE EXCEPT FOR A CONTROLLED DEMONSTRATION
AS ABOVE! Stories abound about the dangers and ease of making nitrogen
triiodide. There was a senior undergraduate student (no not me) given full
access to a lab who made some, it exploded in a beaker showering him with
glass. He was not wearing safety goggles. By some miracle the glass embedded in
his face did not rip his eyes to shreds. Then there were the teenage hoodlums
that stole some iodine from their high school chem lab, made the nitrogen
triiodide at home, and brought it back to school. With a pop and puff of purple
gas the teacher knew what it was. A word of advise to them for next time:
Leaving the instructions on top of your desk in full view of teach will save
you a lot of time scrubbing iodine stains during your next suspension. It is
best to leave it dry where you want to detonate it ASAP.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

ammonium
hydroxide beaker

iodine stirring rod

water graduated cylinder

Nitrogen triiodide is formed when iodine
atoms displace the hydrogen atoms in ammonia NH3 + I = NI3. This reaction
occurs when iodine crystals, I2 are soaked in excess ammonium hydroxide. To
begin, select a small beaker or even a disposable cup about 50-mL in capacity.
This process may permanently stain any container so I suggest the cup. Add 2 g
of iodine crystals to the beaker, crush them as much as possible with a
stirring rod. Add 40 mL ammonium hydroxide to the beaker. After 2 hours the
reaction should be complete. Pour the solution over a filter to collect the
crystals, any excess can be rinsed out of the beaker with water. Put the
crystals where you want them immediately because there only semblance of
stability is when wet. Drying will take about 1 hour. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids.

Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal
and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and
should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER
be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken
before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds:
fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives
or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or
packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly
expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre
supply stores.

First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black
powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It
is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about
50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other
half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major
problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and
it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools.
Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the
following procedure:

MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________

potassium
clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75
g)
and clay grinder

or
or

sodium
wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75
g)
and wooden spoon

sulfur (10
g) plastic bags (3)

charcoal (15
g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)

distilled
water coffee pot or heat source

1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the
potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic
bags.

2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.

3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all
wet.

4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this
until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is
universally black.

5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.

6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store
black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.

Source: rec.pyrotechnics, post by The
Silent Observer <silent1@ix.netcom.com. It comes from a text of 'Samuel
Guthrie' written in 1831. More about this mixture can be found in Davis[10],
page 30 and 31.Comments: It is sometimes called "Fulminating powder". The
mixture burns three times quicker than common black powder.Preparation: The compounds are sometimes molten together, which appears
to be a very dangerous operation.

Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder"
or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it
produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than
black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly
easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure:

There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home.
Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective.
A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact
measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A
rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:

Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for
potassium perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.

The higher the speed number, the faster the
fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer
the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.

As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of
fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts
of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also
can change the sensitivity of the mixture.

7.8 PERCHLORATES:
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated
with perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however,
such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type
powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and
sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the
hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good
idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small amount of acid,
since some of the materials tend to react explosively when contacted by the
acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal. See other percholates section
in the chemicals chapter.

Many of the explosives in this chapter are
not mentioned in the classification chart(section 3.1).These high-order explosives are extremely
powerful and are not to be under estimated.Almost any of these explosives can be used to level a building, and can
turn a car into thousands of small pieces.And needless to say, if explosion happens next to you, you’ll most
likely die.

If you want to make
HE's(high explosives), I STRONGLY suggest you get firmly grounded in the
use of LE's first, and read as much as you can (The Explosives & Weapons
Forum is a good place to look) first. Primary explosives can be VERY dangerous
in the hands of an inexperienced/foolish person, and their manufacture and use
is not to be taken lightly. Secondary explosives are in most ways safer, but
with potentially more dangerous synthesis procedures (runaway reactions, NO2
gas etc).

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land
mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany.(*see section 6.21 for the procedure on
making potassium chlorate)

Materials:Apparatus:

-Potassium Chlorate-plasic
bowl

-Petroliom Jelly(Vaseline)

-Wax

-White Gasoline

melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in
white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts
potassium chlorate into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best
molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in
wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest
detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will
possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store
homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while
performing the processes in this article.

Lead azide is a common primary explosive
used as a standard to compare sensitivity among other primary explosives.
Making lead azide is not a simple task, this laboratory uses advanced
techniques and equipment. Getting the chemicals will be another task. Sodium
azide is an unstable, therefore regulated, material nearly impossible to get,
it will need to be synthesized. Lead azide is sensitive to heat, shock and
friction. The addition of dextrin to this lab prevents the formation of large
crystals which can be very dangerous.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

dextrin 250-mL beaker

lead
nitrate Buchner funnel

sodium
azide graduated cylinder

sodium
hydroxide pipet/buret

water separatory funnel

stirring
rod

thermometer

Dissolve 2.33 g of sodium azide and 0.058
g of sodium hydroxide in 70 mL of water by shaking in a separatory funnel. This
is solution A. Dissolve 6.9 g of lead nitrate and 0.35 g of dextrin in 90 mL
water in a 250-mL beaker, add 1 or 2 drops of 10% sodium hydroxide to bring the
pH to about 5. This is solution B. Heat solution B to 60-65° on a water bath
and agitate it with a plastic or hardwood stirring rod. The stirring should be
as efficient as possible to prevent the formation of large crystals. Stirring,
while vigorous, should not produce any spattering of the mixture and the
stirring should not rub against the walls of the beaker. The friction might
cause some crystals to explode. Add solution A dropwise to solution B while
stirring. The addition should take about 10 minutes. Remove the beaker from the
water bath and continue stirring the mixture in the beaker while cooling to
room temperature, this will take about 1 hour. Allow the precipitate of lead
azide to settle and pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals.
Use suction filtration with a Buchner funnel if possible. Add 150 mL of water
to the crystals to wash them, add the water in 50 mL increments. Dry the sample
for 8-15 hours or longer, but no more than 24, at 65 °C. The lead azide should
form small spherical crystals that are opaque in color. The yield should be
around 5 g. Store the lead azide moist in a rubber stoppered plastic bottle if
you must. If you do not have a separatory funnel for solution A, use a beaker
to prepare the solution and a pipet or buret to to add it to solution B. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to
monitor the temperature.

Lead styphnate, also called lead
trinitroresorcinate, is an unstable primary explosive that resists shock
but will detonate readily from heat or static. It is usually mixed with lead
azide to improve its ability to detonate from flame or electric ignition. The
preparation of lead styphnate is easy, but the chemicals used in its
manufacture are of the kind only a lab would use. Lead acetate and nitric acid
can be obtained but magnesium styphnate will be nearly impossible. Magnesium
styphnate is derived from styphnic acid, or 2,4,6-trinitroresorcinol. Trinitro
anything usually raises some danger flags, and dangerous chemicals are
forbidden. Until I locate the method of preparation for styphnic acid, you will
have to find some yourself.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

lead
acetate small beaker

magnesium
styphnate graduated cylinder

nitric
acid stirring rod

water thermometer

Lead styphnate is prepared by adding a
magnesium styphnate solution to lead acetate solution in a small beaker while
stirring, and keeping the temperature at 70 °C. A precipitate will form, keep
stirring for 15 minutes. After this time is up, add dilute nitric acid while
stirring and cooling to 30 °C with a salt-ice bath, keep stirring until this
temperature is reached. Collect the crystals on filter paper, wash with water,
and allow them to dry in the open. The crystals should be reddish brown or
orange in color.

Notice the lack of quantities of
chemicals. The source I obtained this information from is reliable but sketchy.
I suggest using 10 g of lead acetate in 30 mL of water, and the same for
magnesium styphnate, to make the solutions. Add 10 mL of concentrated nitric
acid to 70 mL of water for the dilute acid. Keep in mind the danger these
crystals may pose, keep the dried crystals away from heat, friction, and shock.
Store the crystals under water if they are not going to be used immediately.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod for
mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Mercury fulminate is an unstable
primary explosive compound. It was first prepared in the late seventeenth
century by Johann Kunckel von Löwenstern by a procedure very similar to the
modern method presented here. Löwenstern detailed mercury fulminate synthesis
in his posthumously written Laboratorium Chymicum, he used aqua fortis,
spiritum vini, and in fimum equinum. That last one is horse manure if you
wanted to know. Mercury fulminate was first patented by Alfred Nobel in 1867
for blasting caps. It is not used today for that purpose because of more stable
explosives from modern chemistry. Its manufacture is not complicated nor the
chemicals in its makeup rare. Mercury can be extracted from a variety of
products but it is very expensive. Only a chemical supply company could provide
mercury in useful quantities. This lab produces nitrogen dioxide gas as a
byproduct, this is a heavy red colored gas that is extremely toxic. The gas
will turn moisture in your lungs to nitric acid and may cause fabric to ignite!
This lab should be done outside or in a fume hood if possible.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

acetic
acid 500-mL beaker

ammonium
hydroxide desiccator

ethyl
alcohol 100mL Erlenmeyer flask

mercury graduated cylinder

nitric
acid

water

In a 100mL Erlenmeyer flask, measure out
35 mL of 70% nitric acid, then add 5 g of mercury metal. This mixture should be
left alone without shaking or stirring until all the mercury dissolves. Toxic
gas will be produced. Keep the flask in a well ventilated area, or stopper the
flask and lead a length of rubber tubing into water to safely dissolve the
fumes. In a 500-mL beaker, place 50 mL of 90% ethyl alcohol, then add the
acid-mercury mix in a well ventilated area. The temperature of the mixture will
rise, a vigorous reaction will commence, white fumes will be released, and
crystals of mercury fulminate should begin to precipitate. Red fumes of
nitrogen dioxide will appear as the precipitation becomes more rapid, then
white fumes again as the reaction moderates. After about 20 minutes the
reaction should be over. Add water to the beaker and carefully decant off most
of the water without losing any crystals. Add water and decant several times
until the wash water is no longer acid to litmus. Finally, pour the neutral
solution over a filter to collect the grayish-yellow crystals of mercury
fulminate. The product may be purified by dissolving in strong ammonium
hydroxide, filtering, and re-precipitating by the addition of 30% acetic acid.
The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed with cold water, and stored in a
container filled with water. Dry in a desiccator immediately before use. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.

1-guanyl-4-nitrosoaminoguanyltetrazene,
more conveniently called tetracene, was first prepared back in 1910 by two
scientists named Hoffmann and Roth. It is a colorless pale yellow, fluffy
material with slight hygroscopic properties.

It is stable at normal temperatures when wet or dry, but
decomposes in boiling water. Tetracene is sensitive to friction, shock, and
flame. Its brisiance is greatest when it has not been compacted, so this
compound can easily become dead-pressed. Tetracene is not suited for blasting
caps or alone as an explosive since it does not detonate itself very
efficiently. It is best suited for booster charges or in blasting caps mixed
with other explosives. It can only achieve is full explosive potential if
detonated by another explosive charge. The only problem I have noted with this
lab is the aminoguanidine bicarbonate used as the main ingredient. I have found
no literature whatsoever to suggest that this substance exists although it is
probably a rare analog of aminoguanidine reacted with a bicarbonate substance,
and given a non IUPAC name.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

acetic
acid 3-liter Florence
flask

aminoguanidine
bicarbonate graduated cylinder

sodium
nitrite thermometer

water

Prepare a solution of 34 g of
aminoguanidine bicarbonate and 12.5 mL of glacial acetic acid with 2500 mL of
water in a 3-liter Florence flask. Gently warm the flask on a steam bath and
shake periodically until everything is completely dissolved into solution. The
solution should be filtered to remove any impurities that may have not
dissolved, then cooled to 30º C by running cold water from the faucet over the
flask. It is necessary to filter the solution if there are impurities present.
Add 27.6 g of sodium nitrite to the solution while swirling to dissolve it. Set
the flask aside at room temperature for 3 or 4 hours then shake it vigorously
to start precipitation of the product. Let the flask stand for another 20
hours. After standing, decant as much of the solution off as possible and drown
the remaining crystals with water. Decant and drown with water several more
times to wash the crystals. Filter the washed crystals to collect them and
thoroughly wash again with water. Dry the product at room temperature and store
in a sealed glass container to keep out the moisture. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Amatol is a high
explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixtureof ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness
slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80%
ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT, to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is
used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs
moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it
should not be housed in containers of such metals.

While PETN can not be
detonated by flame or fuse, it only burns in the open air, it is very easily
detonated by shock. A blow from a hammer, dropping it on the floor, and using
even a weak detonator will cause detonation. PETN was first prepared in 1894 by
the German company Rneinisch Westfalalische Sprengstoff AG. PETN is used as the
active ingredient in detonating cord, detonating cord is like a fuse that burns
as fast as electricity flows (as fast as sound anyway, but that is only an
analogy). The cord can slice a small tree in half from the heat, it was wrapped
around prisoners of war when no shackles were handy. Anybody gets out of
line... Ouch. PETN has also found uses in blasting caps, grenade filler, as a
sometime replacement for RDX, mixed with plastics as a booster charge for
insensitive explosives, and in medicine as a vasodilator. Another nifty use for
it is in sheet explosive, like bed sheets, it can be used to harden and shape
metals, wrap around objects and all sorts of wonderful things. PETN is a rather
common and stable high explosive that is not very difficult to prepare. This
lab will require white nitric acid which you can make and pentaerythritol, also
called tetramethylol methane and 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol.
Pentaerythritol may have its uses in the paint industry but no use in the hands
of the public. I have a method of synthesizing it, but it is vague. I will look
for a better procedure.

CHEMICALS APPARATUS

acetone 600-mL beaker

nitric acid graduated cylinder

pentaerythritol stirrer/stirring rod

sodium carbonate thermometer

water

In a 600-mL beaker, add 400 mL of white nitric acid and cool
to below 5°C in a salt-ice bath. White nitric acid is made by adding a small
amount of urea to fuming nitric acid then blowing dry air into the acid until
it is colorless. 100 g of finely ground pentaerythritol is slowly added to the
acid while stirring, keeping the temperature below 5°C. After all of the
pentaerythritol has been added, the stirring and cooling are continued for 15
minutes. The mixture is then dumped in about 3 L of ice water. The crude
product that should have formed is filtered to collect it, washed with water,
and submerged in 1 L of hot 0.5% sodium carbonate solution for 1 hour. The
crystals are again collected on a filter, washed with water, and allowed to
dry. These washings are important to remove all traces of acid. To obtain a
pure product, dissolve the crystals in hot acetone, allow to cool, then add an
equal volume of water as you have of acetone. Filter to collect the crystals,
wash with water, and allow 24 hours to dry. You will need a graduated cylinder
for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a
thermometer to monitor the temperature.

RDX,
or cyclonite, is a very insensitive high explosive compound. The actual
chemical name is cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine, although the chemical names
hexahydro-1,3,5-trinitro-1,3,5-triazine; Hexogen; trimethylenetrinitramine;
sym-trimethylenetrinitramine ;Hexolite; 1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-p-triazine;
1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-s-triazine; cyclotrimrthylene-trinitramine;
1,3,5-triaza-1,3,5-trinitrocyclohexane; trinitrohexahydrotriazine; and T4 are
also used.

RDX itself stands for Royal Demolition Explosive and comes from
Great Britain, cyclonite is the American usage, Hexogen is for Germans, and T4
is Italian. RDX is a very powerful military explosive that can be stored for
long periods of time and handled safely. RDX is usually mixed with other
explosives and plasticizers to make a variety of useful compositions for
military and civilian use, C-4 and Semtex are two such compounds. It seems so
much RDX is made that most scientific books give industrial schematics for
thousands of pounds instead of lab preparations. The laboratory methods here
are not as efficient as in industry, but are fine. The first method uses
methenamine, or hexamethylenetetramine, which can be purchased as heating
tablets or synthesized in the lab. The second makes use of acetic anhydride,
forbidden by the DEA, but it can be synthesized as well.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

acetic
anhydride 500-mL beaker

acetone 1000-mL beaker

ammonium
nitrate graduated cylinder

methenamine
stirrer/stirring rod

nitric
acid thermometer

paraformaldehyde

sodium
bicarbonate

water

Put 335 mL of 100% nitric acid in a
500-mL beaker, cool the acid to below 30 °C by setting the beaker in a salt-ice
bath. The nitric acid must be as concentrated as possible, it must also be free
of nitrogen oxides. Slowly add 75 g of methenamine in small portions to the
acid while stirring. The temperature must be kept between 20 °C to 30 °C during
the addition. Once all of the methenamine has dissolved, slowly heat it to 55
°C while stirring, hold it to between 50-55 °C for 5 minutes, keep stirring.
Now cool the mix to 20 °C then let it sit for 15 minutes. After standing, it is
gradually diluted with three or four times its volume of cool water, this
should precipitate the RDX from solution. Depending on how the gods of chemistry
feel about your reaction it may take from minutes to hours to fully precipitate
all of the RDX. Decant most of the liquid then add 1 L of 5% sodium bicarbonate
solution to neutralize the remaining acid. Filter the mixture to collect the
crystals of RDX that should have formed. Wash them with cold water, then with
hot 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, and again with water. The RDX can be dried
at room temperature or in an oven. Further purification can be accomplished by
recrystallizing from acetone. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to
monitor the temperature.

The second procedure
is as follows: Place 260 mL acetic anhydride in a 1000-mL beaker and add 105 g
powdered ammonium nitrate while stirring. Heat the beaker to 90 °C and remove
the source of heat. Very slowly add 38 g of paraformaldehyde to the beaker,
this addition will release toxic and flammable fumes, use a fume hood or go to
an open area. After the addition, add the contents of the beaker to twice its
volume of cold water to precipitate crystals of RDX. Filter the solution to
collect the crystals and wash them with cold water then boiling water. The RDX
can be purified by dissolving in the minimum amount of acetone then diluting
with cold water. Filter the crystals to collect them and allow to dry in the
open air.

that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the 'C' explosive of choice for home manufacture due to its ease of manufacture and the more easily obtained compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. The explosive was standardized and adopted in the

following composition:

R. D. X.88.3 %

Heavy Mineral Oil11.1 %

Lecithin0.6 %

In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power. It is relatively non - toxic except if ingested and is plastic from 0-40 deg. C.. Above 40 deg., the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 deg. C., it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Weighing all pros and cons, this is the explosive of choice for the kitchen explosives factory due to the simple manufacture of the plastique compound.

Manufacturing this explosive can be done in two ways. The first is to dissolve the 11.1 % plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R. D. X. and then allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. All percentages are by weight.

The second method is the fairly simple kneading of the plasticizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool dry place. If properly made, the plastique should be very stable in storage, even if stored at elevated temperatures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive as compared to other millitary explosives. With this explosive, as mentioned earlier, a booster will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 deg. C.. The detonation velocity of this explosive should be around 7900 M/sec..

8.10 COMPOSITION C-2:

Composition C-2 was developed due to the undesirable

aspects of composition 'C'. lt was formerly used by the United States armed forces, but has been replaced by C-3 and C-4. lt's composition is much the same as C-3 and it's manufacture is thc safe also.

I won't go into much detail on this explosive because of its highly undesirable traits. lt is harder to make than C-4 and is toxic to handle. lt also is unstable in storage and is a poor choice for home explosives manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either C-4 or C-3. But for those of you that are interested, I will give the composition of this explosive anyway. It is manufactured in

a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorporation of C-3. Its composition is as follows:

This explosive was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of C-2. It was standardized and adopted by the military as the following composition:

R. D. X. 77 %

Mononitrotolulene 16 %

Dinitrotolulene5 %

Tetryl1 %

Nitrocellose (guncotton)1 %

C-3 is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 deg. C. and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X.

is added to the plasticizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T.. Storage at 65 deg. C. for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair its explosive properties. C-3 is 133% as good as an explosive as is T.N.T.. The major drawback of C-3 is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of it's weight although the explosive's detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect the explosive's

performance. It therefore is very good for U.D.T. uses and would be a good choice for these applications. When stored at 77 deg. C., considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 deg. C. and is hard to detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduly toxic, it should be handled with utmost care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was and still is available is standard demolition blocks. It's detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M / sec..

C-4 was developed because of the hardening and toxicity that made C-3 unreliable and dangerous due to the dinitrotolulene plastisizer. The following composition is the standardized plastique explosive as adopted by the armed forces:

R.D.X.91.0 %

Polyisobutylene2.1 %

Motor Oil1.6 %

Di-(2-ethylhexy)sebecate5.3 %

The last three ingredients are dissolved in unleaded gasoline. The R.D.X. explosive base is then added to the gasoline-plasticizer and the resultant mass in allowed to evaporate until the gasoline is completely gone (this can be done quickly and efficiently under a vacuum).

The final product should be dirty white to light brown in color. It should have no odor and have a density of 1.59 gm/cc. It does not harden at -57 deg. C. and does not undergo extrudation at 77 deg. C.. It can be reliably detonated with a #6 blasting cap.

The bristance of this explosive (ability to do work or fragment ordinance) is 120% greater than T.N.T.. C-4 is the best plastique explosive available in the world and probably will remain so for quite some time. This is the #1 demolition explosive in the world and if you've never seen this stuff used it is absolutely amazing. The detonation velocity of C-4 is 8100 M/sec..

Ammonium picrate, also called
2,4,6-trinitrophenol ammonium salt, ammonium trinitrophenolate, Dunnite, or
Explosive D, is prepared in much the same way as nitrogen triiodide. Ammonium
picrate was first prepared in 1841 by a scientist named Marchand. It was not
used until 1869 when it was mixed with potassium nitrate as a propellent for
rifles. Alfred Nobel patented it in 1888 for Dynamites. The US Army picked it
up in 1901, and the Navy floated it in 1907. It saw peak production during WWII
but has since fallen victim to progress in chemistry. This explosive is
relatively stable, therefore safer to prepare and handle. The only real problem
is getting ahold of picric acid which is a regulated explosive chemical. Very
few laboratories still use life threatening carcinogens like benzene or
explosives like picric acid. That means even if you have the authorization to
purchase chemicals you will have a hard time getting any. Not to worry, I have
included the preparation of picric acid. Benzene is another matter
unfortunately.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

ammonium
hydroxide250-mL beaker

picric
acidgraduated cylinder

hotplate

2,4,6-Trinitrophenol ammonium salt is
formed when the ammonium ion, NH4+, attaches itself to the phenol group, OH, of
picric acid. I suppose the H from OH is stripped away making O- that balances
the positive ammonium ion. To make, dissolve picric acid in excess ammonium
hydroxide. Add 1 g of picric acid to a 250-mL beaker then add 100 mL of hot
concentrated ammonium hydroxide. Once the picric acid has dissolved, some will
precipitate out of solution upon cooling. The liquid must be evaporated to
fully precipitate the crystals. Evaporation can be accelerated by heating the
solution on a hotplate or in a heated pan of water. More ammonium picrate can
be prepared at once by using the same 1:100 ratio of grams picric acid to
milliliters ammonium hydroxide. You will need a graduated cylinder to measure
the liquid.

The pure substance occurs
in two forms, a stable form which is bright yellow and a less stable form which
is bright red. The crystals which separate here are the red form. The yellow
form can be procured by recrystallizing the red several times from water. The
red form will eventually change into the yellow form if stored as a
concentrated solution. Keep this material as dry as possible.

HMX is a very powerful military explosive
with similar properties to RDX, the other great military explosive with which
it is often mixed. HMX is technically called
octahydro-1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazocine, other names include
1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazacyclooctane; cyclotetramethylene
tetranitramine; and octogen. HMX is itself an acronym for either High velocity Military
eXplosive, or Her Majesties eXplosive depending on what country you are in. HMX
is very stable, it requires a powerful detonator or booster charge to detonate.
It was first developed during WWII in the never ending search for more powerful
bombs.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

acetic
acid 500/1000-mL beaker

acetic
anhydride 500-mL Florence flask

ammonium
nitrate graduated cylinder

methenamine
stirrer/stirring rod

nitric
acidthermometer

paraformaldehyde

water

Prepare a solution of 748 mL of glacial
acetic acid, 12 mL of acetic anhydride, and 17 g of paraformaldehyde, keep this
solution at 44 °C while mixing. Prepare a second solution of 217.6 g of
ammonium nitrate and 154.6 mL of 99% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker. Prepare a
third solution of 101 g of methenamine, 157 mL of glacial acetic acid, and 296
mL of acetic anhydride in a 1000-mL beaker. Combine the third solution with
112.5 mL of the second solution. Add this combined solution to the first
solution over a 15 minute period while stirring rapidly. After the addition,
continue stirring for an additional 15 minutes. Next, carefully add 296 mL of
acetic anhydride, then carefully add the remainder of the second solution, then
add another 148 mL of acetic anhydride, all while stirring. Continue the
stirring for 1 hour more. After stirring, add 350 mL of hot water and reflux
the whole works for 30 minutes. After this time, cool the liquid down to 20 °C
by adding ice. Decant off as much of the liquid from the precipitate as
possible and drown the remaining crystals with cold water. Filter to collect
the crystals of HMX and wash them with three portions of cold water, allow to
dry. The yield is about 95%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to
monitor the temperature.

Owing to the large volume of reactants in
this lab, in excess of 2.5 L, it is necessary to use a 5-L flask, unfortunately
this is beyond most laboratories, and especially the home chemist. This
reaction can be carried out in a glass gallon jug or similar large capacity
glass container. The refluxing step can be done in portions using a
round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask.

This explosive procedure intrigues me
because what chemical can be more readably available than gasoline, or for that
matter motor oil, kerosine, and diesel. The nitration of petroleum generally
produces either brown non-crystalline solids or liquid products that are
explosive. The first attempts to nitrate petroleum were made in Russia at the
end of the 19th century by one Dr. Konovaloff. Dilute nitric acid under
pressure was used to nitrate the product, obtaining very low yields. In 1902 a
nitration method patented by Edeleanu and Filti used mixed nitric-sulfuric
acids, unfortunately for them no practical application of their patent was
found. Others tried using different kinds of petroleum like A.S. Flexer,
Freund, and Kharichkov to name a few. Not that it matters who they are, but I
like to know. You may experiment yourself on everything from crude oil to that
stuff you get at the hardware store for oil lamps. Things are screwed up
nowadays, all of the good chemical additives that make petroleum nitrateable
seem to be getting legislated by the government (only the democrat oppressors).
This lab may have worked for scientists a hundred years ago, but it may not
work for you today.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

gasoline
beaker

nitric
acid graduated cylinder

sulfuric
acid thermometer

water

Standard gasoline, get
the cheap stuff and not gasahol (gas/ethyl alcohol mix) if you can avoid it, is
added gradually to a mixture of 15 parts 100% sulfuric acid and 3 parts 100%
nitric acid in a large beaker. Add 1 part of gasoline per 18 parts of mixed
acid. The reaction temperature should be somewhat cool, never let the
temperature rise above 80 °C. A temperature below 20 °C should do, you
can regulate this with a salt-ice bath. When the nitration is completed, the
mixture is diluted with a large quantity of cold water to precipitate the
product. The un-nitrated oil will float to the top of the acid-water solution.
Collect the precipitate on a filter and wash with water, yield will be 30% to
90% depending on the crude oil used to manufacture the gasoline. You will need
a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.

Nitrogen trichloride, also called nitrogen
chloride, agene, chlorine nitride, trichloramine, trichlorine nitride, chloride
of azode, or Stickstofftrichlorid, is an unstable primary explosive compound.
Its preparation is not complicated and the chemicals used are simple, cheap,
and readily obtainable. You could pump the stuff out by the liter if it was not
so sensitive. Nitrogen trichloride will explode if heated, exposed to
sunlight, or mixed with organic compounds. It does not like to be friendly
around many other chemicals, shock, sparks, and it will explode if
frozen and thawed. The explosive properties were first reported in the 18th
century by Sir H. Davy, he had this to say: "The fulminating oil which you
mentioned roused my curiosity and nearly deprived me of an eye. After some
months of confinement I am again well." Ouch, that must have hurt.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

ammonium
nitrate bubbler

chlorine
200-mL Erlenmeyer flask

water graduated cylinder

medicine
dropper

Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 70 mL water in a 200-mL
Erlenmeyer flask. Prepare a chlorine generator as described in the synthesis
section. Place a tube connected to the generator at the bottom of the flask so
the chlorine gas can bubble into the liquid, a bubbler will help a lot with the
reaction. Gently heat the flask to start the reaction while adding chlorine
gas. An oily yellow liquid will begin to appear on the bottom of the flask,
that is the nitrogen trichloride. Stop heating the flask when the drops appear.
After 20 to 30 minutes the reaction should be complete. Use a medicine dropper
to extract the nitrogen trichloride from the flask, transfer it to a small test
tube and remove any water accidently sucked up with it. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids. This explosive will decompose within
24 hours of its preparation.

Tetryl
has a variety of names including nitramine;
N-methyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitrobenzenamine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitroaniline;
picrylmethylnitramine; picrylnitromethylamine;
2,4,6-trinitrophenylmethylnitramine; tetralite; and pyronite.

Tetryl is a stable explosive capable of being handled reasonably
safe, yet it is still sensitive enough to be used in blasting caps or booster
charges. It was first developed in 1889 by the scientists Michler and Meyer and
studied in some detail thereafter. It can be heated either in the open or in
solvents causing mere decomposition, usually to picric acid. Tetryl is more
powerful then even TNT, although the lesser stability compared to TNT makes it
less attractive to the military. You must keep tetryl in the dark and away from
the skin, it will stain skin and hair yellow as well as cause itching or worse.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

benzene 500-mL beaker

N,N-dimethylaniline
500-mL Erlenmeyer flask

ethyl
alcohol graduated cylinder

nitric
acid magnetic stirrer

sulfuric
acid separatory funnel

waterthermometer

Prepare a solution of 20 mL of
N,N-dimethylaniline and 130 mL of 99-100% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker
placed in a salt-ice bath. Keep the temperature below 25 °C while mixing this
solution. Pour the solution into a separatory funnel and slowly add it, drop by
drop, to a 500-mL Erlenmeyer flask containing 160 mL of 80% nitric acid that
has been previously heated to 55-60 °C. During the addition, stir continually
with a magnetic stirrer, and maintain the temperature between 65-70 °C. The
addition should require about 1 hour. After the addition, continue stirring and
maintain the temperature at 65-70 °C for an additional hour. Allow the mixture
to cool to room temperature and the crystals of tetryl to precipitate. Decant
as much of the acid as possible and drown the remaining crystals with water.
Filter to collect the crystals and wash thoroughly with water to remove traces
of acid. Add the washed crystals to a beaker of 240 mL of water and boil for 1
hour, continually add water to replace any that boils away, maintaining a
constant volume. Again filter to collect the tetryl, add the crystals to a
beaker and add enough water to cover the surface, grind these crystals to as
fine a paste as possible. Add water equal to twelve times the weight of the
crystals and boil for 12 hours. Repeat this with a fresh batch of water and
boil for another 4 hours. Filter to collect the crystals and allow them to dry.
After drying, add just enough benzene to dissolve the crystals then filter to
remove any undissolved impurities. Allow the benzene to evaporate then
recrystallize the tetryl residue from ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

8.18 Trinitrobenzene(TNB):

1,3,5-trinitrobenzene, also known as
sym-trinitrobenzene; s-trinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzeen; trinitrobenzene;
trinitrobenzol; benzite; Rcra waste number U234; or just TNB, is a stable high
explosive compound with slightly greater explosive force than TNT. There are
two other isomers of trinitrobenzene, namely 1,2,4- and 1,2,3- , but they are
less stable and harder to form.

Trinitrobenzene is very poisonous, causing severe skin irritation,
so it is best to use every precaution when handling it. The good qualities of
trinitrobenzene are its high stability, great explosive power, and low
sensitivity to friction and impact. On the down side, this procedure is not
exactly an economical choice since it uses perfectly good TNT as the main
ingredient.

This procedure is a variant of the original that dates back to
1893 when the German scientists Tiemann, Claus, and Becker observed that
trinitrotoluene can be oxidized with nitric acid to trinitrobenzoic acid, and
the latter being readily decarboxylated to form sym-trinitrobenzene:

This lab substitutes sulfuric acid and a chromium compound for
nitric acid, the reaction is the same either way. There are other methods of
forming TNB but this procedure is the easiest and has the highest yield.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

sodium
dichromate 500-mL beaker

sulfuric
acid small beaker

trinitrotoluene
graduated cylinder

water stirrer/stirring rod

thermometer

Prepare a mixture of 30 g of purified
trinitrotoluene and 300 mL of 95-100% sulfuric acid in a tall 500-mL beaker.
Slowly add, with stirring, powdered sodium dichromate in small portions, do not
allow any lumps to form or powder to rise to the surface. When the temperature
of the mixture reaches 40 °C, place the baker into a cold water bath. Continue
adding dichromate, while stirring, until a total of 45 g has been added,
maintain the temperature between 40-50 °C at all times. After the addition,
continue stirring and maintaining the temperature between 40-50 °C for 2 hours.
After this time, allow the mixture to cool undisturbed to room temperature over
a 12 hour period. Crystals of trinitrobenzoic acid should have formed. Decant
off as much of the acidic liquid as possible, then drown the crystals in water.
Filter the crystals to collect them, wash with cold water, then transfer them
to a small beaker. Add just enough 50 °C water to dissolve the crystals. Filter
this solution hot to remove any undissolved impurities, then boil it until no
more crystals precipitate. Allow the solution to cool, filter to collect the
crystals, then wash them with water. These should be colorless to greenish
yellow crystals of trinitrobenzene. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a
thermometer to monitor the temperature.

TNT was first synthesized in 1863 by a scientist named Wilbrand
who treated toluene with sulfuric and nitric acid at near boiling temperatures.
Although there are several isomers of trinitrotoluene, only the 2,4,6- isomer
is of importance. Pure TNT is in the form of small columns or needles and is
insoluble in water. It is quite stable, being meltable ,or able to act like a
plastic at around 50 °C. TNT can even be boiled although the experiments did
this under reduced pressure (50mm Hg) to lower the boiling point to around 245
°C. The normal detonation temperature is 333 °C, the calculated boiling point
at normal atmospheric pressure is 345 °C, so don't do it. Some experiments have
determined that the presence of foreign material like 1.9% of Fe2O3 will lower
the amount of time it takes for TNT to explode once it reaches its critical
temperature, or 295 °C, the temperature at which decomposition begins. Also,
mixing pure sulfur with TNT will lower the initiation temperature and increase
the explosive power. For example, pure TNT explodes at 333 °C, 5% sulfur
explodes at 304 °C, 10% sulfur at 294 °C, 20% sulfur at 284 °C, and 30% sulfur
at 275 °C. The increase in explosive power is gained through the addition of
5-10% sulfur. Because the stability of TNT is so great, it is harder to
detonate it, the sensitivity increases somewhat above 80º C, but is still
rather low even when molten. A powerful blasting cap, or booster charge, will
be needed to detonate TNT. This lab is carried out in three separate
operations, forming mononitrotoluene, then dinitrotoluene, and finally
trinitrotoluene.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

ethyl
alcohol 100/500/600-mL beaker

nitric
acid Buchner funnel

sodium
bisulfite graduated cylinder

sulfuric
acid pipet/buret

toluene separatory funnel

water stirrer/stirring rod

thermometer

Prepare a nitrating solution of 160 mL of
95% sulfuric acid and 105 mL of 75% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a
salt-ice bath. Mix the acids very slowly to avoid the generation of too much
heat. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. The acid mixture is slowly
added dropwise, with a pipet or buret, to 115 mL of toluene in a 600-mL beaker
while stirring rapidly. Maintain the temperature of the beaker during the
addition at 30-40 °C by using either a cold water or salt-ice bath. The
addition should require 60-90 minutes. After the addition, continue stirring
for 30 minutes without any cooling, then let the mixture stand for 8-12 hours
in a separatory funnel. The lower layer will be spent acid and the upper layer
should be mononitrotoluene, drain the lower layer and keep the upper layer.

Dissolve one-half of the previously
prepared mononitrotoluene and 60 mL of 95% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker set
in a cold water bath. Prepare a nitrating solution of 30 mL of 95% sulfuric
acid and 36.5 mL of 95% nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker. Preheat the beaker of
mononitrotoluene to 50 &Deg;C. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the
beaker of mononitrotoluene, with a pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring
rapidly. Regulate the rate of addition to keep the temperature of the reaction
between 90-100 °C. The addition will require about 1 hour. After the addition,
continue stirring and maintaining the temperature at 90-100 °C for 2 hours. If
the beaker is allowed to stand, a layer of dinitrotoluene will separate, it is
not necessary to separate the dinitrotoluene from the acid in this step.

While stirring the beaker of
dinitrotoluene, heated to 90 °C, slowly add 80 mL of 100% fuming sulfuric acid,
containing about 15% SO3, by pouring from a beaker. Prepare a nitrating
solution of 40 mL of 100% sulfuric acid, with 15% SO3, and 50 mL of 99% nitric
acid. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the beaker of dinitrotoluene, with
a pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of
addition to keep the temperature of the reaction between 100-115 °C. It may
become necessary to heat the beaker after three-quarters of the acid has been
added in order to sustain the 100-115 °C temperature. The addition will require
about 90-120 minutes. Maintain the stirring and temperature at 100-115 °C for 2
hours after the addition is complete. Allow the beaker to sit undisturbed for
8-12 hours, it should form a solid mass of trinitrotoluene crystals. Pour the
contents of the beaker over a Buchner funnel without any filter paper to
collect the bulk of the crystals, save the acidic filtrate as well. Break up
the collected crystals and wash them with water to remove any excess acid. Add
the collected acid and wash filtrates to a large volume of water, this will
cause any remaining trinitrotoluene to precipitate. Decant off as much of the
water as possible and combine these crystals with the previous ones on the
funnel. Drown the crystals in a large volume of water, filter to collect them,
and wash several times with water. Wash the crystals by adding them to a beaker
of water, heat the water enough to melt the crystals while stirring rapidly.
Repeat the melting and stirring with a fresh batch of water three or four times
to wash thoroughly. After the last washing, the trinitrotoluene is granulated
by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued.
Filter to collect the crystals and allow to dry. The TNT can be further
purified by recrystallizing from ethyl alcohol, dissolve the crystals in 60 °C
and allow the solution to cool slowly. A second method of purification is to
digest the TNT in 5 times its weight of 5% sodium bisulfite solution heated to
90 °C while stirring rapidly for 30 minutes. Wash the crystals with hot water
until the washings are colorless, then allow the crystals to granulate as before.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or
magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Silver fulminate is a very sensitive
primary explosive compound. It is most often found in "bang snaps"
and other novelty pyrotechnic objects. Only very tiny amounts of silver
fulminate should be prepared at once, the weight of the crystals can cause them
to self detonate. Silver fulminate was first prepared in 1800 by Edward Howard
in his research project to prepare a large variety of fulminates. For 200 years
it has been only useful as a curiosity explosive in toys and tricks.

CHEMICALS
APPARATUS

ethyl
alcohol 100/500-mL beaker

nitric
acid graduated cylinder

silver thermometer

water

Heat 8 mL of 70%
nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker to 35-38 °C. Add 1 g of silver metal to the
acid. While the silver is dissolving it will produce toxic nitrogen dioxide
fumes, use a fume hood or get to a well ventilated area. Some heating may be
required to get all of the silver to dissolve. Put 15 mL of 95% ethyl alcohol
in a 500-mL beaker set into a salt-ice bath. After the silver has dissolved,
slowly add the solution to the alcohol while keeping the temperature below 18
°C. More toxic nitrogen dioxide will be released. The reaction should require
about 25-30 minutes to complete, after which 200 mL of cold water is added to
precipitate the silver fulminate. Decant off as much of the liquid as possible
then drown the crystals with water. Filter to collect the crystals and wash
them with 30 mL of ethyl alcohol. Flour or starch can be added to the crystals
before filtering to add some degree of stability. Store the silver fulminate
away from sunlight as it can decompose. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil
Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium
nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results
in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This
is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil,
kerosene, or diesel. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from
absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave
to set it off.

*it's
pretty difficult to make it go off. if you know alot about electrics and you
can get the temperature up to 500C then it's not a problem. 25 KG (50lbs)
ammonium nitrate costs around $14. and diesel costs about $1 dollar per litre
(2 pounds). so it's VERY cheap. and VERY powerful. as long as you can make it
go off.

*ANFO
have to be stored in dry, indoor stores by temperature from minus35°C to 35°C up to 3 months from the date of
manufacturing.

DNPA is the acronym
for 4,4-dinitropimelic acid, another name is 4,4-dinitro-1,7-heptanedioic acid.
This explosive is fairly stable to heat and shock as well as being storable at
room temperature. While it is an explosive itself, it is usually used to
manufacture polynitroaliphatic explosives and propellents. It may be more
useful to polymerize this compound into the polyester polymer
4,4-dinitropimelyl chloride and 2,2-dinitro-1,3-propanediol.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

charcoalbeaker

ethyl ethergraduated cylinder

hydrochloric acidpipet/buret

methyl alcoholstirrer/stirring rod

methyl acrylate

potassium dinitroethanol

water

Preparation is by two
steps, the first forms the dimethyl ester of DNPA, and the second hydrolyzes
it. In the first step, 1200 mL of methyl acrylate is added dropwise, with a
pipet or buret, while stirring with a magnetic stirrer or stirring rod, to an
aqueous solution of 2.5 moles of potassium dinitroethanol at room temperature
inside a large beaker. The addition is completed in 3 hours with 8 more hours
of stirring required to complete the reaction. After completion of the stirring
, the ester that should have formed is extracted several times with ethyl
ether, decolorized with charcoal, and the ethyl ether is removed under vacuum.
The impure ester is then recrystallized from methyl alcohol. The second step
hydrolyzes 39 g of the ester by refluxing it with 350 mL of 18% hydrochloric
acid for several hours. After cooling, the 4,4-dinitropimelic acid is
crystallized by adding water. The total yield based on potassium dinitroethanol
is 55-56%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.

Nitroguanidine, sometimes written as nitroguanadine, is a stable
primary explosive compound. The explosive power and insensitivity of this
chemical make it comparable to high explosives like TNT and a good choice for
preparation if your safety skills are not fully established. Unfortunately, the
preparation of guanidine nitrate, the main precursor for nitroguanidine, can be
hampered as its precursors are difficult to obtain. This of course leads to the
synthesis of nitroguanidine being hampered as well. With that aside,
nitroguanidine is very simple to synthesize, requiring only sulfuric acid to
react with. There are two crystalline forms of nitroguanidine, an alpha and a
beta. Although there is little difference between the two forms, the alpha is
the simpler to synthesize, the beta will quickly convert to the alpha anyway.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

guanidine nitrate1000-mL
beaker

sulfuric acidgraduated cylinder

waterstirrer/stirring rod

thermometer

In a 1000-mL beaker
add 500 mL of 98% or greater sulfuric acid, then cool the flask in a salt-ice
bath to 10°C or below. Slowly add 400 g of dry guanidine nitrate to the acid
while stirring, keeping the temperature of the mixture below 10 °C. The mixture
should have a milky appearance, allow it to stand at room temperature, while
occasionally stirring, until it is homogeneous and free from crystals. This may
require anywhere from 15 to 20 hours. After the wait, pour the mixture into a
large beaker of ice and water, this will cause nitroguanidine to precipitate
out of solution. After one hour of standing, with cooling in the salt-ice bath,
all the crystals should have precipitated. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals,
rinse them with water to remove any acid that may be behind, then dissolve them
in 4 liters of boiling water. Allow the water to cool for 12 to 24 hours and
the crystals should precipitate. Pour the water over a filter to collect the
crystals, and then allow them to dry. The nitroguanidine formed can be stored
safely and will not decompose. The yield is about 90%. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer
for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Astrolite is not a chemical compound but rather a two component
high explosive mixture. Its claim to fame is it has the highest explosive
velocity of all chemical explosives, a distant second only to a nuclear blast,
a claim that is entirely false. Only that anarchist crap still thinks
that Astrolite is super powerful. The truth is, its low density makes it
unlikely to achieve a detonation comparable to more common explosives Astrolite
G is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and hydrazine, Astrolite A adds aluminum
powder to the mix for extra power. Hydrazine is a very toxic, corrosive, and
dangerous chemical that you will never be able to get. The fumes can kill
you in seconds if breathed in a confined area. I have devoted a section
to hydrazine and its safety in the chemical synthesis section.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

aluminum powderbeaker

ammonium nitrategraduated cylinder

hydrazinestirring
rod

To make Astrolite G,
add 200 g of ammonium nitrate to a large beaker and stir in 100 mL of
hydrazine, mix well. For Astrolite A add 40 g of aluminum powder to the
Astrolite G mixture. It is best to make the mixture immediately before use
because the ammonium nitrate becomes sensitive to detonation once hydrazine is
added. Professional blasters make their mixtures in the field at the blast site
for greater safety. Each component is measured out in separate containers,
transported to the site, mixed, allowed to sit for 20 minutes, and detonated.
As separate components they are very safe (well as safe as hydrazine can get)
and the mixing is easy. Astrolite can be detonated even when it has been poured
out on the ground and left for 4 days. More Astrolite can be prepared by
observing a 2:1 ratio of ammonium nitrate to hydrazine by weight and 1:5 of
aluminum powder to ammonium nitrate by weight. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids and a stirring rod for mixing.

During the early
chemical industry days of World War I there was a lot of spare chlorine
floating about and there was a big demand for benzene which made it cheap and
available. Put em together and you get chlorobenzene and dichlorobenzene,of
which p-dichlorobenzene is a type of mothball still used today. The nitration
of chlorobenzene was started around 1862 by A. Riche. Dinitrodichlorobenzene
was first manufactured as an explosive called parazol. It was mixed with with
TNT in shells but did not detonate completely. Instead, the unexploded portion was
atomized in the air and was a vigorous itch-producer and lachrymator (causes
tears like mace), it also yielded some phosgene gas which was a dreadful
chemical weapon used back then. Dinitrochlorobenzene finds more use as an
ingredient in the manufacture of other explosives than as an actual explosive
itself, although it has been mixed with picric acid for use in shells. Avoid
contact with the solid and vapors of this chemical, it causes severe itching,
as well as weakness, low blood count, digestive organ damage, and heart
failure. The proper name of this compound is 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene for
the most abundant isomer, and 2-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene for the other isomer.
Other names include 2,4-dinitro-1-chlorobenzene; 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene; 1,3-dinitro-4-chlorobenzene;
chlorodinitrobenzene; DNCB; and 4-chloro-1,3-dinitrobenzene.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

chlorobenzene1000-mL
beaker

nitric acidgraduated
cylinder

sulfuric acidpipet/buret

waterstirrer/stirring rod

thermometer

90 mL of chlorobenzene
is added dropwise with a dropper pipet or buret to a previously prepared, and
cooled to room temperature, mixture of 110 mL of 99% nitric acid and 185 mL of
99% sulfuric acid, in a 1000-mL beaker, while the mixture is stirred
mechanically with a magnetic stirrer. A stirrer is essential for the length of
time required, you may try this by hand with a stirring rod at your own risk.
The temperature will rise because of the heat of the reaction, but should not
be allowed to go above 50-55 °C. After all the chlorobenzene has been added,
the temperature is slowly raised to 95 °C and is kept there for 2 hours longer
while the stirring is continued. An upper layer of light yellow liquid
solidifies when cold. The layer is removed, broken up under water, and rinsed.
The spent acid, on dilution with water, will precipitate an additional quantity
of dinitrochlorobenzene. All the product is brought together, washed with cold
water, then several times with hot water while it is melted, and once more with
cold water under which it is crushed. Finally, it is drained and allowed to dry
at room temperature. The product, melting at about 50 °C, consists largely of
2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene, along with a small quantity of the 2,6-dinitro
compound, m.p. 87-88 °C. The two substances are equally suitable for
manufacture of other explosives or alone as an explosive. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.

HMTD, or
hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine, is a somewhat unstable primary explosive
compound. Its extreme sensitivity to heat, shock, and friction make HMTD a poor
choice for the lesser skilled home chemist. This lab uses hydrogen peroxide at
30% concentration, it is possible to use the more common 3% concentration by
adding ten times as much. The hexamethylenetetramine used here, also called
hexamine, methenamine, or urintropine, can be purchased as "heating
tablets." As to what heating tablets are... They are used in camping and
in the military for heating meals, or hand warmers. It is very unlikely that
you will find this anymore, so synthesize your own as described in the chemical
synthesis section. HMTD has been used as a detonator, it is safer and more
powerful than mercury fulminate or acetone peroxide. It is stable when compared
to other primary explosives, and it is one of the safest explosive peroxides.
HMTD should be kept cool and dry as it may evaporate or decompose, it should
also be kept away from metals as it will corrode them. HMTD will detonate if
struck, but will only burn if heated.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

citric acid200-mL beaker

methenaminegraduated cylinder

hydrogen peroxidestirrer/stirring rod

methyl/ethyl alcoholthermometer

water

Dissolve 14 g of
methenamine in 50 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide in a 200-mL beaker while stirring
vigorously with a magnetic stirrer or with a stirring rod. You must also cool
this solution by placing the beaker in a salt-ice bath. While stirring, slowly
add 21 g of powdered citric acid in small portions to the beaker making sure
the temperature stays at or below 0 °C at all times. After adding the citric
acid, keep stirring for 3 hours and continue to hold the temperature at 0 °C.
Next, remove the beaker from the cooling bath and let it stand at room
temperature for 2 hours, discontinue stirring as well. Finally, pour the
solution over a filter to collect the crystals of HMTD, wash them thoroughly
with water, and rinse with methyl or ethyl alcohol so they can dry faster at
room temperature. Dry by setting in a cool place. HMTD does not store well, so
deal with it immediately. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

HNIW
is an acronym for hexanitrohexaazaisowurtzitane, other names include CL-20;
octahydro-1,3,4,7,8,10-hexanitro-5,2,6-(iminomethenimino)-1H-imidazo[4,5-b]pyrazine;
2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro-2,4,6,8,10,12-hexaazatetracyclo[5.5.0.05,9.03,11]dodecane;
and 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro-2,4,6,8,10,12-hexaazaisowurtzitane.

HNIW is a new kid on the block, it was first prepared by A.T.
Nielsen in 1987, and has since been proposed as a propellent for bullets and as
a blasting explosive. There are actually 6 crystalline isomers of HNIW, this
lab will prepare the beta form, although some of the alpha form will probably
be made. The other isomers are made by heating the crystals to its
decomposition point, the alpha and beta forms are the most stable. This
explosive will most likely be the standard workhorse of the 21st century, it is
currently still in testing for useful applications. HNIW is a symmetric
polyazacyclic nitramine, itself a type of caged polynitramine, a promising new
series of compounds. HNIW is similar to RDX and HMX in structure and explosive
properties. This is a two part lab, the first synthesizing a derivative called
tetraacetyldibenzylhexaazaisowurtzitane (TADB), then from that, HNIW.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetic anhydride500-mL Florence flask

bromobenzenegraduated cylinder

chloroformstirrer/stirring rod

N,N-dimethylformamidethermometer

ethyl acetate

ethyl alcohol

HBIW

hydrogen

nitrogen

nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate

Pearlman's catalyst

sulfolane

water

Prepare a solution of
129 mL of N,N-dimethylformamide and 65 mL of acetic anhydride in a
round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask. Add to the flask, with stirring, 43.2 g
of HBIW, 0.8 mL of bromobenzene, and 4.7 g of Pearlman's catalyst. Purge the
flask by bubbling hydrogen gas in the liquid ,this will displace the air.
Continue to bubble hydrogen gas into the flask and stir. If possible, maintain
a pressure of 50 psi. Over a short period of time, the temperature may rise to
about 50 °C, at this temperature begin cooling the flask with a cold water or
salt-ice bath to keep it under 50 °C. The total reaction time needed is 24
hours. Since it is undesirable to bubble hydrogen gas through the flask for
this length of time, as much would be wasted, a pressure is maintained. During
the reaction, stop cooling if the temperature drops below 35 °C, always keep it
between 35-50 °C. Stir the contents of the flask for the entire 24 hours. Purge
the flask by bubbling nitrogen gas into it to displace any remaining hydrogen.
Filter the contents of the flask to collect the solid material and the
catalyst. Wash with 130 mL of denatured ethyl alcohol, this should leave behind
a gray solid of Pearlman's catalyst and TADB. The TADB can be separated from
the catalyst by dissolving the solid in boiling chloroform, and filtering to
remove the remaining solid catalyst. Boil the chloroform down to recrystallize
the TADB. The yield is about 85%.

Prepare a solution of
15.5 g of the above prepared TADB, 1.1 mL of water, and 300 mL of sulfolane in
a round bottomed 500-mL Florence flask on a salt-ice bath. Add 10.5 g of
nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate to the flask over a period of 30 minutes, keeping
the temperature below 25 °C. After the addition, stir the mixture for 1 hour at
25 °C, then for 1 hour at 55-60 °C. Allow the solution, which should be a
yellow-orange color, to cool to 25 °C. After cooling, rapidly add 47.8 g of
nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate, keeping the temperature below 25 °C. Stir the
mixture at 25 °C for 2 hours, then at 55-60 °C for 2 hours. Cool the mixture to
below 10 °C with a salt-ice bath, then dump the contents, solid precipitate and
all, into a large bucket. Slowly add 4.5 L of water to the mixture in the
bucket, keeping the temperature below 25 °C, the color of the solution should
change from green to yellow, some brown fumes may be evolved. Maintain the
temperature at 25 °C with continuous stirring for 18 hours, a white precipitate
should form. Filter to collect this crude HNIW, and wash several times with
water to yield about 12 g of hydrated product. To purify the HNIW, dissolve it
in 40 mL of ethyl acetate, chromatographically filter the solution through a
short column of silica get, and wash with ethyl acetate. Pour the filtered
solution into 500 mL of chloroform to precipitate the HNIW in its anhydrous
beta form. The chromatographic filtration can be skipped. If pale yellow
crystals are obtained as the crude product, it is the wrong stuff. Heat these
crystals in 15 mL of water per 1 g of product at 95 °C with stirring for 10
minutes, then cool to 0 °C. After standing for 6 hours, filter and wash the
crude product as above, it should be HNIW now. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing,
and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

HNO stands for 2,4,6,2',4',6'-hexanitro-oxanilide. This material
uses the explosive TNO as its precursor. HNO was first prepared by A.G. Perkins
in 1892 when he did nitrations of TNO and from oxanilide. HNO is a stable
compound that resists mechanical shock, friction, and heat. Compared to TNO
this compound is fairly similar, it has, perhaps, slightly greater stability
and explosive power. HNO is used as a component in ignitors and pyrotechnics.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetonebeaker

ethyl alcoholBuchner funnel

nitric acid1000-mL Florence flask

sulfuric acidgraduated cylinder

tetranitro-oxanilidelitmus paper

waterstirrer/stirring rod

thermometer

Prepare an acid
mixture by pouring 125 mL of 90% nitric acid into a round bottomed 1000-mL
Florence flask. Slowly add 55 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid. Set the flask
into a salt-ice bath and cool it to 10 °C. You will need a magnetic stirrer if
using a flask, otherwise stir by hand with a stirring rod in a beaker with
extreme caution. Slowly add 29.2 of tetranitro-oxanilide (TNO) to the mixed
acid with rapid agitation while keeping the temperature between 8-10 °C, this
should require about 25 minutes. After adding the TNO, transfer the flask to a
water bath and heat it to 85 °C over a 2 hour period, then hold the temperature
between 85-90 ° for 1 hour more. The HNO slurry is filtered on a Buchner funnel
and washed with water until it is almost acid free. The filter cake is placed
in a beaker and sufficient water added to form a slurry. Steam is run into the
slurry under agitation for 10 minutes. The slurry is filtered and the residue
washed. The latter treatment of the slurry is repeated until the wash water is
found to be neutral to litmus paper. The HNO is washed with ethyl alcohol, then
acetone, dried in the air, and finally dried at 100-110 °C. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the
temperature.

IPN is an acronym for
isopropyl nitrate, its proper scientific name is 2-propyl nitrate. IPN is a
white liquid with an ether like smell. IPN is a volatile liquid with anesthetic
properties at lower concentrations as well as causing headaches if inhaled or
spilled on the skin. Ingesting or constant inhalation of quantities exceeding
4% for two or more hours is lethal. Quantities as low as 0.2% show no ill
effects. This substance has found uses as rocket propellents and jet starter
fuel when it is not being used as a propellent or explosive. The liquid is
stable for the most part although it is flammable.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

isopropyl alcohol Florence flask

nitric acid

urea

To prepare IPN,
isopropyl alcohol is nitrated continuously by adding a mixture of 61% nitric
acid with 95% isopropyl alcohol, saturated with urea, into a Florence flask set
up for distillation containing boiling 50% nitric acid. The IPN and water
formed are continuously distilled off at about 98 °C from the reaction mixture.
The volume of the reaction mixture is held constant by drainage of nitric acid
and unstable by-products from it as the reactants are added. Unless you have a
special flask with a stopcock on the bottom, you will have to periodically
disconnect the flask from the condenser and dump out some of the used nitric
acid. You will also have to momentarily disconnect the flask to add more
acid/alcohol mix if you do not have an addition funnel. Be very careful doing
this as you will subject yourself to a blast of acid fumes. A curtain of air,
nitrogen, or carbon dioxide is blown through the reaction mixture to improve
mixing and to facilitate the elimination of the volatile products. However, a
flow of inert gas in excess of 50 L/hr decreases the IPN yield. The optimum
ratio of nitric acid to isopropyl alcohol is about 2:1. The IPN yield is 78%.

MEDINA stands for
methylene dinitramine, and is also called methylenedinitramine and
N,N-dinitromethanediamine. This compound was first prepared around 1949 at the
University of Bristol by the hydrolysis of hexamine. This compound is not
cruelty free (heh heh), it has been sprayed into rabbit eyes and injected under
guinea pigs skins. The compound has been found to be non-toxic. This lab does
not exactly fit in well with normal laboratory procedures as this information
is the industrial laboratory method. Since this is the industrial method and it
is still made in the lab I conclude this substance is either not used much or
is to dangerous, I am leaning towards not used much. This is surprising as this
explosive is quite powerful for such a small and simple molecule. Its real
fault lies in the fact that it does not keep well, so use it soon after
preparing.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetic anhydride50 &
250-mL beaker

acetoneburet

charcoal2-L
Florence flask

ethyl acetategraduated
cylinder

ethyl alcoholstirrer/stirring rod

ethyl chloridethermometer

formamide

formic acid

isopropyl alcohol

methenamine

nitric acid

2-nitropropane

paraffin

sodium hydroxide

sodium sulfate

water

xylene

This is a three step
process for the manufacture of MEDINA: In a round bottom 2-L Florence flask,
mix 476 mL of formamide and 70 g of methenamine. The flask is set up for
refluxing, and heated at 140 °C for 5 hours. It is then chilled in ice, the
solid is filtered, and washed on a filter with 90 g of formamide. The crude
product of methylenediformamide may be used in the next step or purified by
dissolving in ethyl alcohol, decolorizing with charcoal, and chilling.

19 mL of 100% nitric
acid is added dropwise with a buret while stirring to a suspension of 5 g of
crude methylenediformamide in 19 mL of acetic anhydride cooled to 10-15 °C in a
50-mL beaker. The solution is then held at 0 °C for 2 hours, and poured with
stirring into a 250-mL beaker filled with 150 mL of ice water. The precipitate
is filtered, washed twice by mixing with ice water, pressed dry on the filter,
and dissolved in 30 mL of ethyl acetate. The solution is seperated from water,
dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate, concentrated in vacuum, 10 mL of isopropyl
alcohol is added, and the product is collected. The product is methylene
di(nitroformamide), which can be purified by recrystallization from either
acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or from boiling ethyl chloride.

The crude methylene di(nitroformamide)
is pressed dry on the filter, stirred into 105 mL of formic acid, and the paste
is allowed to stand overnight. The next day the solution is filtered through an
acid filter, the formic acid and water is removed by distilling with xylene, and
the crude MEDINA, which seperates as a sand, is filtered and dried over
paraffin and sodium hydroxide in vacuum. The crude MEDINA is recrystallized
from 2-nitropropane or a 9:1 solution of ethyl chloride/isopropyl alcohol. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or
magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

8.31 MMAN:

MMAN is an acronym for
monomethylamine nitrate, it is also called methylamine nitrate. It is a
powerful and stable primary explosive compound. Its stability makes it a better
choice for a primary explosive and as a test of the independent chemist's
skill. When used as a blasting cap it will probably require some other more
sensitive material to help it along, but when it explodes it will detonate even
insensitive explosives. The only problem with it is that it is a hygroscopic
compound, so keep it very tightly sealed in storage. Another snag is the
methylamine solution used, it is not a supermarket item now that drug dealers
have made it a DEA watched chemical, it is easy to make though. A note on
nitric acid: You can use any concentration of acid from 20% and up, it is the
volume of acid that is required. I have given the volume for pure acid, adjust
as needed for lesser solutions.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

methylamine1000-mL
beaker

nitric aciddesiccator

graduated
cylinder

stirrer/stirring rod

Place 250 mL of 33%
methylamine solution in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add, with stirring, 385 mL of
100% nitric acid. It will be helpful to divide the acid into four equal
portions of 96 mL each and use a salt-ice bath. The acid addition will generate
substantial heat and may boil, wait until the solution cools a little before
adding the next portion. It is not necessary to add concentrated nitric acid, a
concentration as low as 20% will suffice. You must still add the equivalent of
385 mL of pure acid. Remember there is 1 mL of pure acid per 1% of solution in
100 mL. A 20% solution would require 1925 mL. After adding the acid, test the
solution with pH paper, or litmus paper. The result must be near pH 7 if using
the pH paper and be neutral if using litmus paper. If the solution is acidic
add methylamine until pH 7 is reached. If the solution is basic add nitric acid
until pH 7 is reached. Evaporate the liquid to precipitate the crystals of MMAN
by heating until a slurry is reached, then use vacuum drying to remove the rest
of the water. Because the MMAN is hygroscopic, it will be impossible to drive
off all the water unless heated under vacuum or placed in a desiccator. Extreme
care must be taken when heating an explosive IT CAN EXPLODE. MMAN is safe
enough that it only burns when strongly heated. Use either a hotplate, steam
bath, or oil bath to heat the explosive. If you have access to vacuum equipment
use the vacuum drying method. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring
liquids, and a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing.

NPN
is an acronym for n-propyl nitrate, it also has the names propyl nitrate;
monopropyl nitrate; 1-propyl nitrate; and propyl ester of nitric acid. This
substance is a watery white liquid that is extremely toxic if inhaled. It is
very stable, it can be knocked around for a good bit before detonating, but
increasing the temperature will increase the sensitivity. This substance can be
detonated while vaporized making it a good fuel-air explosive, The maximum
detonation velocity that can be achieved is 1,900 m/s at 21% concentration in
air. Anything more or less will have a lower velocity and is thus less
powerful. NPN has found many uses in industry, the list includes: rocket
propellent, jet motor starting fuel, turbine motor fuel, a degreasing solvent
for iron and aluminum, and a diesel fuel additive just to name a few.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

ethyl acetatestirrer/stirring rod

isopropyl alcohol thermometer

nitric acid

n-propyl alcohol

sodium carbonate

sulfuric acid

NPN can be prepared by
reacting n-propyl alcohol with 70% nitric acid dissolved in ethyl acetate.
During the reaction the temperature must be kept at 20 °C, the product can then
be extracted by distillation.

NPN can also be
prepared by reacting a continuous stream of propyl alcohol below the surface of
a stirred mixed acid composed of 20% nitric acid, 68% sulfuric acid, and 12% by
weight of water in an open stainless steel vessel cooled to 0-5 °C. Additional
mixed acid is also simultaneously introduced at about a third of the depth of
the liquid. An overflow pipe maintains a constant reactant level and the
effluent product is separated, washed with aqueous 10% sodium carbonate
solution, and dried by passage through a Filtrol packed tower with 50%
isopropyl alcohol as the solvent at 0 °C. Yield is about 66.5%. Sorry, I have
no volumes to give you. You will need a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for
mixing and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

PVN stands for polyvinyl nitrate, which means that this explosive
is a continually linked chain of vinyl nitrate over and over again. The
material appears to be a white powder if the polymer has fewer links in the
molecule and as tough white strands if there are many links in the molecule.
PVN was first prepared in Germany in 1929 by G. Frank and H. Kruger by
nitrating polyvinyl alcohol. This laboratory procedure comes from, I believe,
two French scientists named Chédin and Tribot who experimented on method of PVN
preparation after WWII. The densities of PVN can vary depending on the density
of the starting polyvinyl alcohol and range from a low 0.3 g/mL to 1.5 g/mL and
corresponding detonation velocities of 2030 m/s to 6560 m/s. Obviously it is
better to have a higher density product. This product has found a niche in
military applications mainly in propellents, but not so much in industrial
applications.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetic anhydride250-mL
beaker

ethyl alcoholgraduated cylinder

nitric acidstirrer/stirring rod

polyvinyl alcoholthermometer

sodium bicarbonate vacuum desiccator

water

Over a period of 1
hour, very slowly add 5 g of finely pulverized polyvinyl alcohol (containing
10% moisture) to 100 mL of 99-100 nitric acid in a 250-mL beaker. The beaker
should be in a salt-ice bath to provide cooling during the addition. Maintain
constant stirring and a temperature of -8 °C throughout the addition, and for
an additional 2 hours after the addition. The resulting slurry is slowly
drowned in an equal volume of ice water while vigorously stirring. Filter this
to collect the white powder that should have formed, wash the powder with water
until neutral to litmus, then put it in clean water for 12 hours. Repeat the
washing and standing process using 95% ethyl alcohol, and again repeat the
process with 12% sodium bicarbonate solution. Finally, the powder is washed
with water until neutral to litmus, dried in the open air, then in a vacuum
desiccator. The yield is about 96%. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a
thermometer to monitor the temperature.

It may be possible to
increase the nitration yield by adding the polyvinyl alcohol to acetic
anhydride first and using more nitric acid, the procedure is followed as above.

Here are the formulas for WC846 and M9
propellants:

82% PVN57.75% PVN

10.2% nitroglycerin40.0%
nitroglycerin

0.7% dinitrotoluene1.50%
potassium nitrate

6.1% dibutylphthalate 0.75% ethyl centralite

1.0% diphenylamine0.50%
ethyl alcohol

And, yes, M9 does add up to 100.5%, the alcohol is supposed to be
just trace amounts, but is listed as 0.5% for some reason.

TeNN is an acronym for
tetranitronaphthalene. There are actually several isomers of TeNN, we are primarily
concerned with 1,3,6,8-tetranitronaphthalene as it forms in abundance over the
1,2,4,6-; 1,2,5,8-; 1,2,6,8-; 1,3,5,7-; 1,3,5,8-; and
1,4,5,8-tetranitronaphthalenes. A mixture of isomers is bound to occur, though.
TeNN is a very powerful and quite stable high explosive compound. It is
actually slightly more powerful that TNT and just as stable. This explosive is
superb because of its primary ingredient naphthalene. Naphthalene is the
chemical name for moth balls, it is cheap, easy to get, not to hazardous, and
sold in a store near you. I keep waiting for the government to ban it, or some
environMeNtaList whacko to launch a save the moths campaign to ban it. The only
drawback to TeNN is the possibility of side reactions reducing the yield during
synthesis. Rapid heating of TeNN will cause it to explode, but slow heating
will only cause decomposition. This lab uses concentrated sulfuric and nitric
acids which are not so common, but still obtainable. Making TeNN is a multi
step synthesis, first making mononitro then 1,8-dinitronaphthalene.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetone1000-mL
beaker

ethyl alcohol2000-mL
beaker

naphthalenegraduated cylinder

nitric acidstirrer/stirring rod

potassium nitratethermometer

sulfuric acid

water

Prepare a mixture of
64 g of powdered naphthalene with 105 mL of water in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly
add 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid to the beaker then add 81 mL of 70% nitric
acid. Stir this mixture occasionally and allow it to cool to room temperature.
During a 3 hour period, slowly add with stirring 150 g of powdered naphthalene
to the acid mixture. The temperature will rise, regulate the addition of the
naphthalene to get the temperature at 50 °C by the end of the addition time. After
all of the naphthalene has been added, continue stirring and heat the beaker to
55 °C for several minutes then stop stirring and allow the mix to cool. Some
mononitronaphthalene should crystallize on the surface of the beaker.

Prepare a second nitrating
mixture by putting 300 mL of 53% sulfuric acid in a 1000-mL beaker. Cool the
acid to 25 °C by placing in a salt-ice bath. Add 152 g of potassium nitrate to
the acid while stirring rapidly. Remove the mononitronaphthalene from the
previous reaction and crush it up, add it in small bits while stirring to the
mixture, maintain the temperature between 38 °C and 45 °C. The addition should
require about 1 hour, do not allow the temperature to go over 45 °C at any time
during the addition. After the addition, continue stirring and heat the beaker
to 55 °C until the formation of dinitronaphthalene crystals begin. Filter the
contents of the beaker on an acid filter to collect the crystals of
dinitronaphthalene that should have formed. Wash the crystals with six portions
of cold water and allow them to dry. Dissolve the dry crystals in boiling
acetone. Filter this solution while hot to remove any undissolved impurities,
collect the filtrate and allow it to cool by placing in a salt-ice bath. Filter
to collect the pure crystals of dinitronaphthalene. Collect the acetone
filtrate from this filtering, boil it to reduce the volume by half, and cool in
a salt-ice bath. Again filter to collect a second crop of dinitronaphthalene,
add these crystals to the previous and allow them to dry.

Prepare the final
nitrating acid mixture by slowly adding 750 mL of 100% sulfuric acid to 750 mL
of 100% fuming nitric acid in a 2000-mL beaker. Cool the acid mix to below 20
°C with a salt-ice bath. Once below this temperature, slowly add with stirring
the dry dinitronaphthalene from the previous reaction while maintaining the
temperature at 20 °C during the addition. After the addition, slowly heat the
mixture to 80 °C over a 1 hour period (1 degree higher every minute) then hold
the temperature at 80-90 °C for 3 hours more. Allow the mixture to cool then
filter on an acid filter to collect the crystals of TeNN that should have
formed. Collect the filtrate and drown it in ice water to precipitate
additional crystals of TeNN. Filter to collect these crystals and combine them
with the other crystals. Wash the crystals with several portions of water then
add them to 95% ethyl alcohol. Allow the crystals to dissolve, then cool in a
salt-ice bath to recrystallize the now pure TeNN. The pure crystals can be
filtered to collect them and dried by heating on a steam bath.

You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer
for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature for these procedures.

TNPEN is an acronym for
ß-(2,4,6-trinitrophenoxy) ethanol nitrate, also called
2,4,6-trinitrophenoxyethyl nitrate; or glycoltrinitrophenylether nitrate. TNPEN
was first prepared by H.A. Lewis back in 1925, others have since revised the
method, with this particular preparation developed by R.C. Elderfield in 1943.
TNPEN will ignite when heated in the open and will detonate if struck as if by
a hammer, so its stability is not that low, compared to TNT it is as stable and
has 122% the explosive power. There is some conflicting data that indicates the
stability may be lower. The recommended uses of this explosive are in
detonators or boosters, and as an ingredient in propellents. The detonation
velocity ranges from 5500 m/s to 6600 m/s depending on the density which can
range from 1.15 g/mL to 1.6 g/mL

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetonebeaker

ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol250-mL Florence flask

ethyl alcoholgraduated cylinder

nitric acidglass filter paper

sulfuric acidstirrer/stirring rod

waterthermometer

Prepare a solution of
10 g of ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol in 55 mL of 94% sulfuric acid in a small
beaker. Prepare a second solution of 21.5 mL of sulfuric acid, 13.2 mL of
nitric acid, and 15.7 mL of water in a round bottomed 250-mL Florence flask,
chill this solution to between 0-10 °C with a salt-ice bath. It does not matter
what concentration of acids are mixed so long as the total water content comes
out to 15.7 mL. While stirring, slowly add the ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol
solution to the cold acid mix. When the addition is complete, the temperature
is raised in 30 minute intervals to 20 °C, 30 °C, 40 °C, 60 °C, and in a 15
minute interval to 70 °C. After chilling, the cream-colored crystals are
filtered using glass filter paper, washed free of acid, and recrystallized by
dissolving in acetone and adding ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated
cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing,
and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

TNPht is also known as ethyl picrate;
aethyl-[2,4,6-trinitrophenyl]-ather; pikrinsaureaethylather, or aethylpikrat in
German; keineyaku, or keyneyaku in Japanese. The proper scientific name for
this substance is 2,4,6-trinitrophenetole. This explosive is almost as powerful
as TNT but its sensitivity is not all that great. This explosive would be
classified as a booster, it needs a detonator to set it off and then it would
set off a high explosive. This material was tested in France during WWI in
shells as a bursting charge. The Japanese used it during WWII as a substitute
for TNT because they had a shortage of toluene. This lab was developed by L.
Desvergnes around 1922.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

2,4-dinitrophenetole500-mL beaker

nitric acidgraduated cylinder

sulfuric acidstirrer/stirring rod

waterthermometer

Dissolve 53 g of
2,4-dinitrophenetole in 95 mL of 95-98% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker while
stirring. Add 62% nitric acid so that the temperature rises rapidly to 30 °C.
Continue the addition, while maintaining the temperature between 30-40 °C by
cooling with a salt-ice bath, until a total of 30 mL of nitric acid has been
added. Pour the resulting yellow slurry into about 1500 mL of cold water,
filter to collect the crystals, wash the crystals with cold water, and dry.
There should be about 61.8 g of product, or 96% of the theoretical yield. You
will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or
magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Tetranitromethane, also called TeNMe, is a colorless to pale
yellow liquid that was first prepared by the action of nitric acid on
trinitromethane back in 1861. The Germans used it back in WWII for an
intermediate in making other explosives and as a substitute for nitric acid in
the V-2 rocket. A pilot plant in New Jersey used to make tetranitromethane blew
up in 1953. This compound is rather toxic, irritating the skin, mucous
membranes and the respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to vapors causes damage
to the liver, kidneys, and other organs. A concentration of 0.1 ppm in the air
is fatal. Mixtures of tetranitromethane with organic liquids tend to form more
powerful explosives, but the sensitivity is worse. A list of mixtures has been
provided. Tetranitromethane has been proposed as a chemical warfare agent.

CHEMICALSAPPARATUS

acetic anhydrideaddition funnel

nitric acidbeaker

sodium hydroxideClasien adapter

sodium sulfatedesiccator

water250-ml Florence flask

graduated cylinder

thermometer

This reaction
will produce toxic fumes, so take the necessary precautions. Measure out 21 mL
of 100% nitric acid into a round-bottomed 250-ml Florence flask. It is
important to only use anhydrous acid and no more than the amount proscribed,
any deviation will drastically lower the yield of this reaction. Place a
Clasien adapter on the flask and attach a thermometer on the straight arm,
almost touching the bottom of the flask, and an addition funnel on the side
arm. In this instance do not use a thermometer adapter to connect the
thermometer, there must be a gap to allow reaction gasses to escape.

Cool the contents of
the flask to 10 °C in an ice water bath. Slowly add 47.2 mL of acetic anhydride
in portions of 0.5 mL at a time from the buret. Do not let the temperature of
the mixture rise above 10 °C during the addition, failure to maintain the temp
may result in a dangerous runaway reaction. After the first 5 mL of acid has
been added the reaction should have calmed down enough where you can begin to
add larger portions of 1 to 5 mL at a time with constant shaking.

After all the acetic
anhydride has been added, everything is removed from the flask. The neck of the
flask is wiped clean with a towel, the flask is then covered with an inverted
beaker, and it is now allowed to come up to room temperature in the ice bath.
It is important to keep the flask in the ice bath because the reaction can
still become dangerous if it is allowed to warm up too rapidly. The flask
should be left alone for 1 week (yes, 7 days) at room temperature.

After sitting for a
week the contents are mixed with 300 mL of water in a 500-mL Florence flask.
The tetranitromethane is removed by steam distillation, the tetranitromethane
passes over with the first 20 mL of the distillate. The lower layer of the
distillate is separated, washed with dilute sodium hydroxide, and then water,
and finally dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate in a desiccator. Yield is 14–16
g, or about 57-65%. Do not distill tetranitromethane by ordinary distillation
means, it may explode. The residues of distillation are especially dangerous.
Use only steam distillation, and even then be careful. You will need a
graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.

Explosive mixtures
with organic compounds

Tetranitromethane can be mixed with several compounds including
benzene, ethylene glycol, gasoline, naphthalene, and toluene, but the resulting
explosive may be rather sensitive to detonation. Here are some mixing ratios:

-87:13 mixture of benzene and TeNMe

-1:1 mixture of ethylene glycol and TeNMe

-varying amounts of gasoline or diesel mixed with TeNMe are
powerful but very sensitive, I suspect that the more TeNMe there is the more
sensitive it will be

-1 mole naphthalene to 2 moles TeNMe

-4 moles of nitromethane to 1 mole TeNMe

-mixing 10-40% paraffins and 60-90% TeNMe will make powerful
explosives that are resistant to mechanical shock but detonate by explosive
shock

-mixing with toluene creates a very powerful explosive (>8000
m/s) that is more unstable than nitroglycerine

The anhydrous dimeric form is the preferable form to create; it is more
powerful and less sensitive to shock. Bot hforms are very sensitive to heat.
Anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide takes many times as sharp of a
blow from a hammer to initiate detonation than with trimeric acetone peroxide.
This is due to several factors:

(1) It is an oily liquid, not a solid, A solid will not shift shape to fit its
container, as will a liquid. Thus, when trimeric acetone peroxide is struck
with a hammer, the crystals shatter, causing decomposition; when anhydrous
dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is struck with a hammer, it will shift
shape significantly, often avoiding decomposition.
(2) The C-O-O-C group is better shielded in anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide. Thus, random energy surges
will be less likely to affect the C-O-O-C group enough to break all of the
bonds in the group, which would result in exothermic decomposition, likely
starting a chain reaction; this would be perceived as detonation.
(3) There is less stress on the peroxide groups in anhydrous dimeric methyl
ethyl ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide (bond stress is mostly
responsible for monomeric acetone peroxide's incredible instability, and
anhydrous dimeric acetone peroxide's relative instability when compared to
trimeric acetone peroxide).
(4) The decomposition to an exothermic stage of decomposition of a single
molecule of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide requires more energy
than with a single molecule of trimeric acetone peroxide.
(5) Less energy is liberated from the decomposition of a single anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecule, causing it to be less likely that
detonation will occur from the decomposition of just a handful of anhydrous
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecules.

Perhaps the most valuable property of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is the fact
that it can be stored for a long period of time. Chemical decomposition does
not proceed beyond the monomeric form, with the obvious exception of
deflagration and detonation. Autonomous chemical decomposition is very slow
when not in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (which causes the anhydrous
dimeric form to begin to decompose slowly into the monomeric form). Because of
this, it is wise to prepare anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in
an excess of methyl ethyl ketone (this fact has been factored into the below
instruction on preparation of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide). Anhydrous dimeric
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is a thick, oily liquid. The anhydrous dimeric
form, when pure, possesses a sharp, sour, acidic "burning" odor. The
procedure for preparation that will soon be discussed will produce mostly the
anhydrous dimeric form.

PREPARATION OF ANHYDROUS DIMERIC METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE:

CHEMICALS NEEDED:

-40mL 27.5% H2O2 solution (other concentrations may be used; the volume of
hydrogen peroxide solution will need to be adjusted accordingly; the quantity
of sulfuric acid used will also need to be adjusted)
-25mL Methyl Ethyl Ketone CH3COCH2CH3 (sold as a solvent at hardware stores;
keep in mind that it will dissolve most plastics)
-5mL 98% sulfuric acid (other concentrations may be used, the volume of
sulfuric acid will need to be adjusted accordingly)
-200mL NaHCO3 solution

procedure:

1) Place 25mL of methyl ethyl ketone in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in an
ice bath at temperatures ranging preferrably from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius; the
lower end of the described recommended temperature range is preferrable.

2) Place 40mL of 27.5% H2O2 solution in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in an
ice bath at temperatures ranging preferrably from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius; the
lower end of the described recommended temperature range is preferrable.

3) Wait fro the temperature of both the methyl ethyl ketone and the temperature
of the 27.5% H2O2 solution to fall into the recommended temperature range.
Then, pour the beaker of methyl ethyl ketone into the beaker of hydrogen
peroxide solution. Stir this solution for thirty seconds.

5) After all of the sulfuric acid is added, wait 24 hours. It is highly
recommended to attempt to keep the temperatures within the recommended
temperature range during the entirety of every step of the prepataion (this is
a very common mistake made when attempting to make trimeric acetone peroxide;
most will not bother to keep the temperatures around zero degrees Celcius while
waiting 24 hours or so for the reaction to complete; the result of that is far
less stable acetone peroxide due to lower yields of the trimeric form and
higher yields of the dimeric form).

6) The beaker should now have two layers; a thick oily layer on the top, and a
translucent white, relatively thin liquid on the bottom. The thick oily layer
on top is the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. All traces of
acid must now be removed. Pour this beaker into a 300mL beaker. Then slowly add
200mL of NaHCO3 solution. Stir vigorously for five minutes; try to keep the size
of the pockets of the oily liquid (the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide) as small as possible when stirring.

7) Most of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide will now begin to
sink to the bottom of the beaker. Extract it with a syringe. Some will also
remain on the surface; extract this also with a syringe (it is possible to
isolate the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide by decantation, but
this process can be very time consuming, frusturating, and will not be able to
harvest nearly as much of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide as
the syringe extraction method).

If you wish to further deacidify the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide, place it in an airtight aluminum container, in an ice bath (extremely
important!). Leave the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in the airtight aluminum
container until bubbles no longer form. A safer alternative to this process is
to add noon-crumpled pieces of aluminum foil to the anhdrous dimeric methyl
ethyl ketone peroxide (also in an ice bath); however this will often make it
difficult to recollect all of the anhdrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone
peroxide, due to it sticking to the pieces of aluminum foil; it can be very
difficult to remove from that surface.

9) Now pour the deacidified anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into
an open glass, or plastic (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!). Let it stay
in the open at temperatures around 15 degrees Celcius to allow most of the
water to evaporate off.

10) Now that the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is dehydrated,
it is ready for use.

STORAGE: Pour the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into a sealed
plastic container (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!) for storage. The
reason for sealing it is to prevent loss of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl
ketone peroxide due to evaporation. The lower the temperatures are during
storage, the better, with the exception of temperatures so low that it freezes
the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide.

It seems that dimeric 2-peroxybutane (MEKP) is more stable than previously
thought. It does not explode unless severely shocked. I have tried to explode
as much as 4mL using only fuse, and that resulted in nothing but a tall pillar
of flame. It does explode with a sharp crack when hit *hard* with a hammer. I suggest
using aqueous ammonia instead of sodium hydrogen carbonate for neutralizing
acid.

This is
a simple ketonitramine which is very easy to make. Its main (only?) drawback is
the fact that it is easily decomposed in the presence of moisture, and
therefore must be kept absolutely anhydrous for increased storage stability.
This is a two stage synthesis, first forming Urea Nitrate, which is also an
explosive.

I can't
find density values for either of them at the moment, but Urea Nitrate has a
max. VoD of around 4500 m/s and Nitrourea can get up to about 7000 m/s.

I have
not found the zinc salt of Nitrourea to be very useful, so I will not include
it unless people actually want me to.

Step #1:
The production of Urea Nitrate.

Materials:

30g of
urea (cheaper lawn fertilisers, such as Wilkinson's own brand, are pure urea.),

35mL of
70% nitric acid,

Distilled
water,

Acetone,

Three
150mL beakers,

A
thermometer,

A filter
funnel,

A
fridge,

Filter
papers.

Procedure:

1) Put
the urea in a 150mL beaker, and add 40mL of distilled water. Stir it with the
thermometer until it has dissolved - it gets quite cold, so you'll need to warm
it, or have a bit of patience.

2)
Measure out the nitric acid into the other 150mL beaker.

3) Cool
the nitric acid, and the urea solution, to 5*C in the fridge, or in an ice
bath.

4)
Slowly, while stirring with the thermometer, mix the two liquids, while keeping
the temperature below 20*C.

5)
Filter out the precipitate, and discard the solution.

6) Add
the precipitate to 100mL of acetone in the third 150mL beaker, and stir it
around with the thermometer.

7)
Filter the Urea Nitrate out, and let it dry in a warm place.

Step #2:
The production of Nitrourea.

You will
need:

60g of
Urea Nitrate,

90mL of
conc. sulphuric acid,

Distilled
water,

Alcohol,

Ice,

A
salt/ice bath,

A hot
water bath,

A
thermometer,

A filter
funnel,

Filter
papers,

Two
250mL beakers,

A 500mL
beaker.

1)
Measure the sulphuric acid into a 250mL beaker, and cool it to -5*C in the
salt/ice bath.

3) 5
minutes after all the Urea Nitrate has been added, dump the mixture into 300mL
of ice/water in the 500mL beaker.

4)
Filter out the precipitate, and put it into the second 250mL beaker, containing
50mL of alcohol.

5) Heat
this to the boiling point of the alcohol using the hot water bath, and while stirring
add more alcohol, slowly, until all the Nitrourea has dissolved.

6) Chill
this solution to 0*C in the salt/ice bath, filter out the precipitate and rinse
it with cold alcohol.

7) Dry
it in warm, dry air to prevent condensation of water on the precipitate.

8) The
Nitrourea will now be pure, and can be stored for years in hard glass bottles
if kept dry.

9) It's
a good idea to keep it SLIGHTLY acidic, since alkalis accelerate it's
decomposition when moist.

Step #1:
The production of Urea Nitrate:

Yield,
based on the amount of urea used:

Amount
of urea used: 30.0 grams.

Theoretical
yield: 61.5 grams.

Experimental
yield: 55.5 grams.

Percentage
yield: 90.2%

Step #2:
The conversion of Urea Nitrate to Nitrourea:

Yield,
based on the amount of Urea Nitrate used:

Amount
of Urea Nitrate used: 60.0 grams.

Theoretical
Yield: 51.2 grams.

Experimental
Yield: 30.4 grams.

Percentage
yield: 59.4%

Possible
improvements:

Not much
really. As with Hexamethylenetetramine Dinitrate, the liquid left after making
one batch of Urea Nitrate can be used to dissolve the urea for the next batch,
so that less Urea Nitrate is lost in the solution

8.45 Tetranitronapthalene:

This was
once considered as a high explosive for use in artillery shells; as far as I
know, the only reasons why it was not used are the facts that it was more
expensive than Trinitrotoluene, and it didn't have the advantage of being
safely castable. It is as stable as Trinitrotoluene and has the same oxygen
balance.

VoD is
7013 m/s at 1.60 g/cm3, therefore its relative briscancy under these conditions
is 0.96.

Materials:

105g of
napthalene,

320mL of
98% sulphuric acid,

140mL of
70% nitric acid,

60mL of
95% nitric acid,

5%
sodium bicarbonate solution,

Ethanol,

A 250mL
beaker,

A 1.5L
beaker,

A 3L container,

A hot
water bath,

An ice
bath,

A
thermometer,

A filter
funnel,

Filter
papers.

Procedures:

Step #1:
The production of mononitronapthalene.

1) Add
30g of powdered napthalene to 50mL of water in a 250mL beaker. Stir it around,
and mix it together as good as you can (water and napthalene do not like
mixing!)

2)
Slowly add 80mL of the sulphuric acid, while stirring with the thermometer, and
then add 60mL of the 70% nitric acid.

Do not
let the temperature rise above 30*C during either of the additions.

3)
Slowly stir in a further 75g of napthalene, keeping the temperature at around
50*C using the ice bath and hot water bath. Hold it at this temperature, while
stirring, for half an hour.

4) Heat
the mixture to 60*C for 3 minutes, then let it cool to room temperature.

5)
Remove the solidified mononitronapthalene from the surface of the liquid. This
can be used in the next steps to make Tetranitronapthalene, or purified by
stirring it around under 75*C 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, then several
washes under hot water, if it is going to be used to make Cheddites.

Step #2:
The production of 1,8-Dinitronapthalene.

1) In a
1.5L beaker surrounded by an ice bath, cool 160mL of sulphuric acid to around
15*C.

3) Crush
the mononitronapthalene from the previous step as finely as you can, and slowly
stir it into the sulphuric acid/nitric acid mixture, keeping the temperature
below 40*C.

4) After
all the mononitronapthalene has been added, stir it occaisionally for half an
hour, keeping the temperature at 20*C - 30*C.

5) After
this time, slowly warm the mixture to 70*C, while stirring vigorously. This
warming should last about half an hour.

6) Hold
the temparature between 65*C and 75*C for half an hour, while stirring.

7) Let
the mixture cool to room temperature, and dump it into 1L of cold water in a 3L
container. Let the product settle.

8)
Decant off most of the liquid from the product, and slowly add 2L of distilled
water at about 40*C, while stirring. Let the product settle and repeat the
washing..

9)
Filter the product out of the liquid, and let it dry.

10)
Dissolve as much of the product as possible in near-boiling acetone, and filter
the solution while hot. Cooling the filtrate in the freezer will precipitate
1,8-Dinitronapthalene (and unreacted Mononitronapthalene, if any) for the next
step. The undissolved solid will be 1,5-Dinitronapthalene, which can be used in
mixtures with Ammonium Nitrate or Chlorates.

Step #3:
The production of 1,3,6,8-Tetranitronapthalene.

1) Chill
60mL of 95% nitric acid in a 500mL beaker, using a salt/icbath.

2) Once
the acid is below 0*C, begin the addition of 80mL of 98% sulphuric acid, while
stirring, keeping the temperature below 30*C.

3) After
the acids have been mixed, add 20g of the powdered 1,8-Dinitronapthalene, as
obtained above. Add it slowly, with rapid stirring, keeping the temperature
between 25*C and 30*C.

4) After
the addition, leave the mixture at room temperature for one hour, with occaisional
stirring.]

5) After
this time, slowly heat the mixture, while stirring rapidly, to 70*C to 80*C.
This heating should be done over the period of about one hour, and the final
temperature should bemaintained, with
stirring, for at least one further hour.

6) Cool
the mixture and dump it into roughly three times its volume of cold distilled
water.

7)
Filter out the solids, wash them a few times with distilled water, and dry
them.

C02 bombs(crater makers) are pretty much
little hand grenades.They are also
called crater makers because if you shove one in the ground and light it, there
will be a small crater after it goes off.These little bastards are very useful and can be used for many other
explosive devises.

Materials:

-Empty
C02 cartridge

-any
fast burning gunpowder or flash powder

-long cannon
fuse(6+ inches)

-J-B
Weld

-screw
driver

-really
small funnel

Instructions:

Take an empty C02
cartridge and widen the hole in the top with the screw driver as much as you
can.Fill the C02 cartridge up with
powder using the funnel.When it fills up
with powder, tap the C02 cartridge on something hard so the powder packs
down.Then put some more powder in,
then tap it some more.Put the long
cannon fuse in when you can’t get anymore powder in.Now make a batch of J-B Weld and put some on the top of the C.M.
so the fuse and powder won’t come out.Let it dry.Pick a big open
field, where no one with call the cops.Shove the C.M. in the ground and light it.Now RUN!…You don’t want to be by that shit when it goes off!

Tips:

-You can
also use a rocket igniter and a power source as a fuse for better control and
safety.Just make sure the wire running
from the C.M. to the power source in REALLY long.

-Put
some modeling clay on the outside of the C.M. then press some BB’s or ball
bearing into it; if you really want to fuck shit up!….I might warn you, if you
get hit by the BB’s or whatever when it goes off, you’ll probley DIE.

-Tape
the C.M. to a can of starter fluid or a can of butane, for an added explosion.

These things kick ass!They can be pretty loud and don’t throw
shrapnel, unless you bury it in rocks.

Materials:

-ping-pong
ball

-flash
powder or other fast burning powder

-long
cannon fuse

-J-B
Weld

-red
nail polish(optional)

-screw
driver

Instructions:

Punch a hole in the ping-pong ball with
the screw driver, and fill it with flash powder.Shove the fuse in the hole and fill in the hole around the fuse
with J-B Weld.Let it dry.Now paint the C.B. with the nail polish,
I’ve heard the nail polish gives it an extra bang.

*Note:As with a C.M., you can use a rocket igniter
setup instead of a fuse.

Settle in with a coke or something and
start unboxing the sparklers. The number of sparklers per bundle determine the
loudness of the explosion....so keep
this in mind when you make them. I have found that 12 per bundle make for a
nice level of percussion...altho 48
sparklers per bundle can literally " ROCK THE HOUSE"!!The best bang for your bucks is about 32 per
bundle. After 60, there is no increase in percussion and you are basically
wasting sparklers ( the outer ones get destroyed before they ignite ).

Unbox the number of sparklers you have decided upon, and bundle
them up into a circular form. Locate the most center sparkler and pull it out
of the bundle by about 2 - 2.5 inches ( if you run slow make it 3.5" )
this becomes the fuse. Once you have the bundle set, begin wrapping the bundle
with electrical tape starting at the top of the bundle ( not at the fuse tip,
but where the fuse enters the bundle)wrap the tape tightly around the bundle going towards the bottom of the
bundle stopping at the wires. Continue wrapping the bundle back up towards the
top and then back to the bottom again. This should result in 3 layers of black
tape. Take a few extra inches of black tape and lightly cover the top of the
bundle ( this helps in keeping the sparks from falling on the top of the bundle
as you are lighting the fuse and causing a premature explosion). Once you have
the black tape on the bundle, its time to wrap the unit with the strapping
tape. This is done pretty much the same way as the black tape but you use 4
layers of this tape. ( this tape increases the explosion force).

Once
you have taped the assembly, take one of the wires extending from the bottom of
the bundle and wrap it around the existing wire handles ( this helps in
reducing the wire shrapnel that WILL occur if you dont wrap)next... take another wire handle and wrap it
around the existing wires about 1/2 way between the bundle and end of the
wires. To be really "safe" wrap a few turns of black tape around the
base of the bundle where you wrapped the first wire.

Most
sparklers are difficult to light with a Bic lighter or such, a propane torch
works very well...its faster, easier
and quicker.

When
you plan to "use" the finished product,keep in mind that they are quite capable of extreme forces. The
wires are the most prominent threat. To reduce the chance of getting
"nailed", force the handle section of the unit into the ground. DO
NOT place these things inside of pipes, glass containers, or items that can
shatter ( I think the word is hand grenade). Also DO NOT place near containers
holding materials that can burn, explode, or cause a problem.Remember, the local authorities don’t
understand people who enjoy percussive articles :) .

WARNING…

These things can be REALLY loud!They are strong. And they will remove the grass from the area of
detonation. A 32 bundle will clear the grass down to the mud with about a
15" diameter spot.If you are
within several feet of the unit when it goes off, there is a good chance of
perminent hearing loss ( aka blown eardrums) and several serious wounds.sooooo...best advicebe at least
20-30ft(minimum) away from it. If it is true that the old style CherryBombs,
Silver Salutes , M-80's etc. are equal to a 1/4 stick of dynamite...then these
things are equal to a 3/4 stick.DO NOT
HOLD THESE THINGS IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!!you will LOOSE whatever is in contact with the eplosion.

WHAT to
Expect...

The fuse takes about 3-5 seconds to reach the top of the bundle,
once it hits the top, a yellowish flame spurts out for about 1/2 a second. When
you see this flame spurt out, the time has come :)There is a bright white flash and a fair amount of smoke
produced when it ignites. After effects are neighbors saying "What the
hell was that ? " , you standing there saying

"
HOLY sheeet !!!"The remains of
the unit, if firmly planted in the ground, will be many wires spread outward
along the ground and the fuse wire standing up, the local area devoid of
vegitation.

Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more
in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight!
Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He
will have a blast!!

Mix all three of these in equal
amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a
mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip
the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing
this,though, because if you are
caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges.
It is up to the city.

By far, the most common smoke formula is
the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula.
It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make.
The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary somewhat
depending
on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.

A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produced the
smoke cloud on the right in under 2 seconds.

Potassium Nitrate

60 %

Sugar

40 %

Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed
together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together
does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb.To melt the mixture together,
you'll need small metal saucepan or other heat resistant container, and an
electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is preferred to an open flame heat
source because it's a tad safer, and easier to prevent overheating of the
mixture. The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and over a LOW heat until it just
starts to melt. Heating it too quickly, or at too high a temperature will
cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a giant mess, not to mention a
fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done outside just in case you
overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture begins to melt, it will turn
brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy (see image above)... after all, you
are melting Sugar ( and no, you can't eat it ).

A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....

Procedure:

Start by making a small size batch
(50 grams total). Measure out 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of
Sugar into a small cup. For those of you who cut math class, 30 grams of
Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar is still a 60% / 40% mixture. If you
make a batch larger than 50 grams, it will be very difficult to mix and heat
evenly. You can always make more, so don't mix up a giant batch.

Snap a lid on the container and
shake to mix the two chemicals together. Pour the mixture into a heat resistant
container and set it on your hot plate.

Set the hot plate temperature to
medium-high, and about every 30 seconds or so, stir the mixture well, being
sure to scrape the material that may start sticking to the bottom.

Over the next several minutes,
the mixture will begin to darken and clump. It will soon begin to look like
brown sugar, and when it finally mixes smoothly and looks like peanut butter,
it is done. If you mixture is turning BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a
temperature.

Remove the container from the
heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky mass. You can either just plop some on
the concrete, or if you're picky about the way your smoke bombs look, you can
make small cardboard molds and press the gooey mass into them. Personally, we
just lay it on the concrete.

Before
the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Visco Safety Fuse.

Do
this to the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.

In about 5 minutes, the material will be
cool and become rock hard ( beware that it will stick to the surface while
cooling, but is easily removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your
Smoke Bomb away from any flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.

*see
the pyrotechnics section of this book for the other better smoke formulas.

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.
Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff
that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store.
Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass
jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the
water to produce acetylene carbonate, which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If
you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!

9.9 Firebombs (Molotov
cocktail):

Most fire bombs are simply
gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's
mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was
a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to
cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part
gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into
gasoline.

These can be really cool, depending on how
you make them.They don’t usually do
much damage like other bombs, but they’re pretty easy to make; but I would not
be near it when it goes off.

Materials:

-plastic
soda bottle with a screw-on cap (the bigger bottle, the louder the boom!)

-box of
Picallo Peat fireworks

-nail

-knive
or razor blade

Instructions:

Open up a picallo peat using a razor
blade, save the fuse.Pour the powder
in the soda bottle, make sure the bottle is dry!Poke a hole in the cap with the nail and shove the fuse in the
cap a little less than half way.Screw
the cap on the bottle real tight.Stand
the bottle up somewhere.Light the fuse
and back up.

*Note:The more powder and the bigger the bottle
you use, the bigger the boom.Other
powder can be used instead of the insides of picallo peats; any fast burning
powder will work.

Thermite can be made
to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine powdered
aluminum for the coarse/fine mix.Take
15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil.
Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse.
Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical
mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to
help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast
thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled mold.
Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold
will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour,
carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with the first
fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the
ball in the sun for about a week.DO
NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN !The fuse
ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite.Since the thermite is ignited from the
center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than normal.
The result is a small explosion.The
thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around.
Use this carefully !-Thermite Burns at over 5000 deg. F.

Take a 2 liter plastic soda bottle and fill about a quarter of it
with Muramic Acid (pool acid). After this you have to work fast! Drop some
aluminum foil strips into the bottle and put the cap on. Shake it up a bit and
throw it. It will create a gas and explode. The fumes are very hazardous, so
make sure you wont harm anyone unless you intend to.

Why buy all those wussy fireworks on the 4th, and waste
money when you can make your own that are way better?!Before making any pyrotechnic devise,
refer to the safety section of this book...and read the following:

Even if you're just boiling some
water, sure as hell, some spaz out there is going to bump into the pot and pour
the boiling hot water all over themselves, get third degree burns, and
die.(and of course blame it on the
person who told them to boil the water)Now add some high energy chemicals, like Oxidizers and Metal Powders,
not to mention some Radioactive material, and you've got a real recipe for
disaster.Any chemistry experiment, no
matter how simple it may seem, has the potential of being dangerous... even if
you follow directions exactly as stated.The firework formulas always require special attention, for if any
pyrotechnic formula ignites unexpectedly, it generally can't be extinguished
fast enough. Pyrotechnic (firework) compositions have their own oxygen supply,
so they can't be smothered once ignited. Although large quantities of water
will extinguish most slower burning compositions, there are even some where the
addition of water makes them burn even faster. Some formulas like Flash Powder
burn so fast, it's almost instantaneous. If a quantity of it ignites while
you're mixing it, before you can blink your eye, move your hand, or turn your
face, the skin will have already been burnt off your body.Pyrotechnic mixtures are sensitive to
shock... don't bang on them. They are sensitive to friction... don't grind
them... and of course if a spark or flame touches them, they'll ignite or
explode too.USE COMMON SENSE! Anything
that burns has the potential of exploding, so never put a pyrotechnic
composition in a glass or metal container. To do so is asking for death. If
you're going to mix any of these formulas, make sure you know what you're doing
and have a large bucket of water nearby.

- Avoid using large quantities -
- Only ignite the mixture outdoors -
-Follow any special warnings given -
Only ignite pyrotechnic mixtures or completed fireworks with a fuse,
never just throw a match in the mix or on the firework.

Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of
base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The
base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in
the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed
with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke.
Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder
works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of
rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material
in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces
much smoke. Most of the fuel oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not
correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of
possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also
lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the
fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing
an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they
will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large
enough to prevent an explosion.

Smoke composition #1:Comments: Different sources mention
differnt compositions. The most often mentioned one is given here.Preparation: The mixture is most
succesfull when prepared by melting the sugar and potassium nitrate together on
low heat, but this requires good stirring, and there is a risk of accidential
ignition. The molten mixture can be poured in cardboard containers and a fuse insterted
while the mixture solidifies.

Smoke composition #2:Comments: The mixture is difficult to
ignite. Hexachloroethane is poisonous, and can be replaced by 72 parts PVC.
This, however, makes the mixture yet harder to ignite. The zinc oxide can be
replaced by titanium dioxide (2 parts ZnO replaced by 1 part TiO2). The smoke
is slightly irritating and not suitable for indoor use.Preparation:

Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device
for soldiers. by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the
rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored
ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear
below.

Comments: The composition spreads a large
amount of long lived orange fire dust particles. The lifetime of those
particles depends mainly on the consistency and type of charcoal.Preparation: The components must be intimately mixed. This can be done
by dissolving the potassium nitrate in a minimum amount of boiling water,
adding the charcoal and sulfur and precipitating the potassium nitrate in the
form of fine particles by adding a large amount of isopropyl alcohol and
cooling the solution as fast as possible to 0°C, followed by filtering and
drying.

Red and aluminum torch:Comments: The composition is a modification of the 'Aluminum torch'.
Suggested dimensions for the torch are 2.22cm diameter and 45cm length.Preparation: Before ramming, this formula should be moistened with a
solution of 1 part shellac in 16 parts alcohol and 1 part of this solution used
to every 36 parts of composition. As this mixture is somewhat difficult to
ignite it is necessary to scoop out a little from the top of the torch and
replace it with a starting fire composition. Meal powder can be used for that
purpose.

Extra bright torch:Comments: According to the original text: "An aluminum torch of
heretofore unheard of brilliance and giving an illumination, in the 2.54cm
size, of what is said to be 100000 candlepower". Testing with paint grade
aluminum revealed that it burns very bright indeed at a steady slow burnrate
and with little residue. It is easily pressed in tubes.Preparation: Rub the Vaseline into the barium nitrate. Mix the sulfur
and the aluminum separately. Then mix it with the barium nitrate/vaseline
mixture. A starting fire mixture is required for ignition. The 'starting fire
#1' composition can be used for that purpose.

In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from
just a few basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is
presented. It assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who
does not understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first
five chapters of a high school chemistry book.

The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the
bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same
method works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable
in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are
available in great excess.

Rocket propellant #1 ('Candy Propellant'):Comments: This propellant is often refferred to as "candy
propellant" or “white propellant”Preparation: It is best prepared by melting the potassium nitrate and
sugar together, but this is a dangerous operation and could result in
accidential ignition during preperation. Dry mixing is possible and much safer
but produces lower quality propellant.

Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Chris
Beauregard <cpbeaure@descartes.waterloo.eduComments: The burning rate of these
rocket fuels depends much less on pressure than that of black powder. This
widens the accetable limits of the ratio nozzle area/fuel surface area.

Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Chris
Beauregard <cpbeaure@descartes.waterloo.eduComments: The burning rate of this
rocket fuels depends much less on pressure than that of black powder. This
widens the accetable limits of the ratio nozzle area/fuel surface area.

Source: Greg Gallacci
<psygreg@u.washington.eduComments: The GE silicone II is noted
for having an ammonia-like odor, where the GE silicones smell more like
vinegar. The dimensions of the rocket made with this propellant were 1 1/8 inch
ID, with a 1/2 inch core.Preparation: Mix the copper oxide,
PVC and silicone first, in a plastic bag. Then mix in the ammonium perchlorate.
The stuff is said to be somewhat crumbly, and presses well.

Red star #2:Comments: Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, add the other
ingredients and proceed as usual. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry. They
can be dried in the sun or in a vacuum. Smaller stars dry faster.

Blue star #1:Comments: LNiksch :"These stars burn much faster and more blue than
any mix containing copper carbonate I have tried"Preparation: Dampen with alcohol/water 70/30 to make cut or pumped
stars.

Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay. The result is a
salmon-berry (reddish-orange) color.Preparation: Warm the sculpy slightly, to make it more mixable and mix
it with the ammonium perchlorate without using solvents. Screen it several
times and make pressed stars. The stars can be baked in an oven at 135°C for 20
minutes, which will result in much harder, more ignitable, more intensely
colored stars. Heating the stars is not recommended though, since it could
cause the stars to ignite.

This set
of compositions was invented by Robert Veline and is used in Kosankie's 'Chemistry
of Fireworks (Chemistry of color) class'.Comments: These compositions are part
of a matched set invented by Robert Veline. The compositions mix compatibly to
produce a wide range of other colors. Examples are given below. The wood meal
in the prime (see miscellaneous compositions) makes the stars a little 'fuzzy',
making the stars much more easy to ignite. Without the wood meal prime the
stars are often blown blind.Preparation: Summary of Robert
Veline's own comments: "Potassium perchlorate is a fine powder. Parlon is
Hercules brand or Superchlon brand from Ishihara co. ltd. Red gum is a fine
powder. Copper(II)oxide may be substituted by copper carbonate without much
change in performance. Calcium carbonate is 200 mesh, 'Whiting'. More pure
forms slow the burn rate and degrade the color."

Comments: These compositions are part of a
matched set invented by Robert Veline. The compositions mix compatibly to
produce a wide range of other colors. Examples are given below. The wood meal
in the prime (see miscellaneous compositions) makes the stars a little 'fuzzy',
making the stars much more easy to ignite. Without the wood meal prime the
stars are often blown blind.

Preparation: Summary of Robert Veline's own
comments: "Potassium perchlorate is a fine powder. Parlon is Hercules
brand or Superchlon brand from Ishihara co. ltd. Red gum is a fine powder.
Copper(II)oxide may be substituted by copper carbonate without much change in
performance. Calcium carbonate is 200 mesh, 'Whiting'. More pure forms slow the
burn rate and degrade the color."

Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted
by Dan Bucciano.Comments: Can also be used as rocket
propellant: Mix the chemicals, dampen, and granulate through a 20 mesh screen
and dry. Use +3% by weight as a tail effect. Once you have passed the top core
of the rocket by 1/2 inch, you may ram 100% firefly formula the rest of the
way. You will end up with a beautiful long trailing tail of firefly.

Source: PML Digest 391, post by L.Niksch
<LNiksch@aol.com. This formula is provided with the "firefly
aluminum" from Skylighter.Comments:

Preparation: Ball mill potassium nitrate, Air
Float charcoal, sulfur and Dextrin together for 1 hour. Then add the 36 mesh
Charcoal and firefly aluminum and mix with a spoon. Add water to make a dough
mix and cut with a knife into 3/8" cut stars. Separate stars and dry for
3-4 days. The effect is a long tiger tail going up and firefly sparkles coming
down. Larger stars take longer to dry, and a damp star produces very little
firefly effect.

Matrix comet
composition #1:

Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke
Stanbridge <mykestan@cleo.murdoch.edu.auComments: A matrix comet consists of
a matrix composition in which colored microstars are embedded. It produces a
colored tail when fired. The microstars must be slow-burning while the matrix
must be very fast burning. The matrix must either emit as little light as
possible or a lot of light in a color that is compatible with the color of the
microstars. The following green matrix composition from c1995 is a good
starting point for further experimentation.

Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called
Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded
sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee
mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low
amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that
prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a
fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to
dry properly depending on the circumstances.

Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke
Stanbridge <mykestan@cleo.murdoch.edu.auComments: A matrix comet consists of
a matrix composition in which colored microstars are embedded. It produces a
colored tail when fired. The microstars must be slow-burning while the matrix
must be very fast burning. The matrix must either emit as little light as
possible or a lot of light in a color that is compatible with the color of the
microstars. The following green matrix composition from c1995 is a good
starting point for further experimentation.

Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called
Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded
sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee
mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low
amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that
prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a
fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to
dry properly depending on the circumstances.

Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Composition
from "The best of AFN III"[12], page 121Comments: Sometimes, Bi2O3 is used
instead of Pb3O4. The composition is extremely sensitive, both to friction and
impact. It is also quite poisonous and explosive. Gloves and an air mask must
be worn at all times when handling this mixture since the mixture contains the
very toxic Pb3O4.

Preparation: Add lacquer untill the thickness
is like wood putty. Pass the mix through a screen and dry it to make 1mm
squares. These will explode with a sharp crack shortly after lighting and can
be used as star cores.

Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by
sweden <sweden@synchron.ct.se. Source of this composition is Bruce SnowdenComments:

Preparation: Add isopropyl alcohol for
binding. Cut, round and pumped stars can be made with this composition, but a
typical KClO4/Red gum/Charcoal/dextrin prime will be necessary. A final layer
of sodium nitrate/sulfur/Charcoal (85/5/10), moistened with NC/acetone lacker
(w. about 3% NC) can be added. This adds yellowish sparks. Mealpowder can be
used instead if the yellow sparks are not desired.

Source: Quoted in an AFN Yearbook from
David Bleser on "Protecting Electric Puple Decomposition"Comments: When very fine powdered
ammonium perchlorate was used in a an attempt to try to increase the burning
rate of stars an ammoniacal smell and an increase in temperature was noticed.
The batch of stars was safely disposed of. By adding 5% potassium dichromate
and 1% boric acid the reactions were prevented.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page
219.Comments: This composition can be
used for the cores of round stars. It gives a strong flash of light. The cores
burn quickly and are self propelled when they are unevenly ignited. To prevent
that, these cores should be coated with 'Brilliant core prime' (see
miscellaneous compositions) untill they are round.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page
220.Comments: This composition produces a
silver fire dust. A large silver fire dust flame of short duration is obtained.
When the ratio perchlorate to aluminum is changed to 35/65 a small flame with
yellowish fire dust of long duration is obtained.

Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke
Stanbridge <mykestan@cleo.murdoch.edu.auComments: A matrix comet consists of
a matrix composition in which colored microstars are embedded. It produces a
colored tail when fired. The microstars must be slow-burning while the matrix
must be very fast burning. The matrix must either emit as little light as
possible or a lot of light in a color that is compatible with the color of the
microstars. The following green matrix composition from c1995 is a good
starting point for further experimentation.

Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called
Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded
sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee
mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low
amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that
prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a
fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to
dry properly depending on the circumstances.

Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke
Stanbridge <mykestan@cleo.murdoch.edu.auComments: A matrix comet consists of
a matrix composition in which colored microstars are embedded. It produces a
colored tail when fired. The microstars must be slow-burning while the matrix
must be very fast burning. The matrix must either emit as little light as
possible or a lot of light in a color that is compatible with the color of the
microstars. The following green matrix composition from c1995 is a good
starting point for further experimentation.

Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called
Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded
sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee
mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low
amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that
prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a
fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to
dry properly depending on the circumstances.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page
229. Listed as "Yellow dragon"Comments: The smoke is more dense
than that of dye smoke, but it looks dark yellow against the light of the sun.
The smoke is poisonous.

Comments: This is a relatively safe flash composition. Burns with a
brilliant white light in an open tube, or when unconfined. When well confined,
it produces a loud, low pitched report and a short but intense flash.Preparation:

Flash #6:Comments: Can be ignited by a fairly low temperature flame, and produces
a greenish flash when magnesium is used. Burns very fast, and produces a loud
report even in an open container.Preparation:

H3 Bursting charge:Comments: This energetic burst charge is used for small diameter shells
(2...3 inch), since it makes a large and symmetrical burst possible. Besides
the composition below, a ratio of chlorate to hemp coal of 10:3 is also
popular. The sensitivity of this mixture to shock and friction is unexpectedly
low, as long as the composition does not come into contact with sulfur or
sulfur compounds.Preparation:

Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1:Comments: This energetic burst charge can be used for small shells, but
is unsuitable for the smallest diameters (2...3 inch). It is much safer to
handle than the H3 bursting charge since it contains no chlorates.Preparation:

Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #2:Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 5’. This
compositions sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black
powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the
‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’. This burst charge is often used in
shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).Preparation:

Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #3:Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 44’. The
potassium bichromate catalyses the decomposition of the potassium perchlorate.
This composition’s sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black
powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the
‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’. This burst charge is often used in
shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch).Preparation:

Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #4:Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 46’. The
potassium bichromate catalyses the decomposition of the potassium perchlorate.
This composition’s sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black
powder. The explosive force of this composition is higher than that of the
‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’, especially when the particle size
of the carbon is small.Preparation:

Priming composition #3:Comments: Suitable for priming most stars. Chlorate stars or stars
containing ammonium compounds should never be primed with this composition. It
can be stored in small plastic containers.Preparation:

Priming composition #5:Comments: This type of prime helps reduce the friction and impact
sensitivity of chlorate stars which is especially important when shells fire
from the mortar and experience set-back or "kick" from lift
acceleration.Preparation:

Priming composition #6:Comments: This prime is safe to use with chlorate stars and gives a much
better color than a black powder prime. The difference is most noticable on red
stars which tend to a dark salmon color when primed with black powder.Preparation: Dissolve the potassium nitrate in hot water and mix with
the charcoal.

Priming composition #8:Comments: Used for strobe stars of ammonium perchlorate base to prevent
nitrates from the outer priming to react with the ammonium perchlorate. The
layer should be at least 1-2mm thick.Preparation:

Source: Shimizu[1], page 70Comments: For more details on what
the effect looks like and how devices can be constructed, look at §10.4,
"The phenomenon of Senko-Hanabi" in Shimizu's book (on page 68).
Realgar may be used instead of sulfur, see 'Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers),
realgar based' for a realgar based formula. The realgar based formula produces
larger en more beautiful sparks.

Source: Shimizu[1], page 70Comments: For more details on what
the effect looks like and how devices can be constructed, look at §10.4,
"The phenomenon of Senko-Hanabi" in Shimizu's book (on page 68).
Sulfur may be used instead of realgar, see 'Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers),
sulfur based' for a sulfur based formula. This realgar based formula produces
larger en more beautiful sparks than the sulfur based formula.

Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6],
page 223Comments: When lighted, this
composition produces very voluminous snake-shaped ash. Mercury compounds are
very poisonous, and extreme caution should be excercised during preparing and
handling this composition. Wear gloves at all times, and use a fume hood.

Preparation: Instructions for making mercuric
thiocyanate: 1) Dissolve 64 parts of mercuric nitrate in water, and separately
dissolve 36 parts potassium thiocyanate in water. 2) Mix both solutions, and
filtrate to collect the precipitate that forms upon mixing. 3) Rinse the
collected precipitate 3 times with distilled water, and place it in a warm (not
hot) place to dry.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1],
page 221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum 6". The 6 in that name
comes from the ratio of charcoal to potassium nitrate, which is 6:10.Comments: A reddish fire dust is
obtained, which is relatively shortlived. When willow charcoal is used instead
of pine, long lived fire dust is obtained.

Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the
potassium nitrate must be soaked into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be
used for mixing.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page
221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum 8". The 8 in that name
comes from the ratio of charcoal to potassium nitrate, which is 8:10.Comments: A reddish fire dust is
obtained, which is relatively shortlived. When willow charcoal is used instead
of pine, long lived fire dust is obtained.

Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the
potassium nitrate must be soaked into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be
used for mixing.

Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page
221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum of mystery".Comments: A weak fire dust is
obtained since the composition contains no sulfur. It creates a different and
lonely effect.