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Retro Valve not rapid firing?

Hello,

I recently upgraded my old Minimag to a Retro Valve, and was hoping to get a little more action from it than I'm getting. It definitely fires faster but I was hopping to get it to rapid fire. I bought a Ninja SHP regulator that is putting out 1100-1200psi and adjusted the sear so thats it sits just behind the trigger. The On/Off is the standard RT not the ULT, is that what's needed? What else do I need to do? Here's my Mag...

Have you checked your velocity? A lower front chamber pressure (lower velocity) will help with reactivity. Are you using a level 10 bolt. If you are, then a shorter, lighter bolt spring will help make it more reactive. Also, try putting a shim or two in between the on-off halves. It will push the top oring up a bit higher which will reduce the distance the sear needs to travel to close off the air supply and release the bolt.

Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

Haven't checked the velocity yet I don't have a chronograph. No level 10 yet, but planning on it soon. I just have a foamy level 7. I'll get to the hardware store soon and try the shims out. Any other suggestions are welcome.

When my x-valve has trouble rapid firing i will go into the power tube and put oil on the oring in there. Then drop oil in the elbow like normal and that salves prob every time. Make sure its a good quality oil.

Haven't checked the velocity yet I don't have a chronograph. No level 10 yet, but planning on it soon. I just have a foamy level 7. I'll get to the hardware store soon and try the shims out. Any other suggestions are welcome.

The shims AThomas is talking about are only for ULT on/offs which you said you do not have. If you are still getting bolt stick, this will effect your RT. You need to change the Level 7 spacers. You also need to get to a chrono to determine your FPS. You can get the spacers either from the AGD online store or from Tunamart. This needs to be fixed before you can really proceed.

I was referring to adding shims to the standard retro on-off. You can put ULT shims in between the two on-off halves. It will push the top part farther into the valve which is the same as using a shorter pin. You can only use a couple of shims here or it will squeeze the top oring and make it too tight.

I was referring to adding shims to the standard retro on-off. You can put ULT shims in between the two on-off halves. It will push the top part farther into the valve which is the same as using a shorter pin. You can only use a couple of shims here or it will squeeze the top oring and make it too tight.

I apologize and stand corrected. I had never heard of doing this before.

Haven't checked the velocity yet I don't have a chronograph. No level 10 yet, but planning on it soon. I just have a foamy level 7. I'll get to the hardware store soon and try the shims out. Any other suggestions are welcome.

one of the first steps in installing a new xvalve is cranking the velocity. I set my in put pressure around 900 psi.

me too

I also have the same issue whit the same setting RT retro valve on a minimag same color too!! (like color would change something... loll )

unable to sweet spot making the trigger bounce, when I tried to do it it shoot half power 2 paint balls I'm guessing half stroke , double feed then fires 2 simultaneously

///so the bolt doesn't go all the way? not enough air and/or spring too strong ?///

If something works please post it so I can have an idea of what to do to make it bizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ! I saw one on youtube ripin saying he just sanded on/off pin... I don't know before doing something irreversible ....

Basicly what you need to do. Don't shave it down more then .710 or you can buy yourself a HP reg that pushes 1k +. If you have a lvl 10, install the gold spring. It'll be harder on paint but RT a lot better.

ok

Originally Posted by Ando

Basicly what you need to do. Don't shave it down more then .710 or you can buy yourself a HP reg that pushes 1k +. If you have a lvl 10, install the gold spring. It'll be harder on paint but RT a lot better.

yeah already have 1100 psi pressure from a flatline that might need something (see my tread in tech forum ) and no lvl10 yet so I'l sand this down a bit and see what happens

You ain't going to scratch that pin with sand paper. Demel it, go down .010 at a time till you get the results your looking for. IF you go too far with that pin you're going to end up buying a new one. Get your tank fixed before you screw that pin up. I put mine all around .725 to .735. Thats my prefer length

shaved pin

Originally Posted by Ando

You ain't going to scratch that pin with sand paper. Demel it, go down .010 at a time till you get the results your looking for. IF you go too far with that pin you're going to end up buying a new one. Get your tank fixed before you screw that pin up. I put mine all around .725 to .735. Thats my prefer length

Alright so I shave it a litle bit the on/off pin and when I shoot air is coming from the bolt witch doesn't cycle, should I readjust sear so it pushes the pin further now that she is shorter to make the rest of the bolt cycle ?

done

loosen or tight your thumb and frame screws...sometimes one or both is either too loose or too tight...have you gone thru your entire valve, cleaned and checked all the o-rings?

yes it worked! I lube and tighten everything and it's now sharper shooting. to those who want to shave their pin I suggest using a spark plug spacer measure tool, mine had a size 0.045 thickness witch was perfect to measure what had to be shave.

I am now trying to reduce trigger travel to a minimum and finally when my air runs out maintenance my flatline 3000 hopping it will recharge faster and stop is mini leak at 1100psi so I can crank it up to 1200.

hopping this tread will become usefull to some one

BTW are the on/off pins made whit the same material (stainless steel) or is there some aluminum or other ?

As for your flatline, like the mag, they do vent out when the pressure is set too high. It verywell could be your gaug being inaccurate and is putting out more then what it's showing.

I totally agree whit you, I maintenance it and found everything in order, it's either the gauge showing less than the actual pressure or the seat o ring that might be a little bit deformed ? anyway I found out AGD flatline security air hole just beneath this seat o ring and this hole is microscopic I mean it's obvious it's not there to make something work whit airflow.

So in point form: you want RT effect whit your RT retro valve

you need : dremel, spark plug measuring tool, metal ruler (more precise) and patience (space to take out is less or equal to 1 millimeter space between the lines of a ruler ( black line not included or maybe one of them)

1-mesure your on/off pin to 3/4 of an inche ( 0.750 ) to make sure it's not already shaved.
2-dremel it LITTLE AT THE TIME and verified whit spark plug measuring tool.

I notice at high pressure 1100 psi the trigger is crisp and can RT too
I notice as the pressure goes under 1000 psi the trigger becomes much more RT ing but bolt cycle a little bit slower, so if you don't have HP 1000 + psi reg you might want to shave it less than 0.040

I'm gonna tried to figure out the quad o ring in the bottom of the on/off chamber and tell you what it did.

not 100%

shaving the pin down can create a rough edge on the on/off pin that can nick or damage the little o-ring inside the on/off which can cause leaks or performance issues?

not 100% sure but from the look of it the only time that shave edge is passing true is o ring friend is when you disassemble and from the quality of the SS i'm pretty confident it cuts flush without creating ''still attached saw teeth shrapnel''

I preferred starting up whit the shave pin because it give it a little more lightness and I'm pretty sure the extra o ring down the on/off chamber will not only reduce traveling but will also make it bounce thus reloading faster than stock bouncing against SS .......... and improve RT

I've never liked shaving the on/off pin, or shimming it to achieve the RT effect. Ideally the valve should do it without modifying the gun from factory specs through air input pressure alone. Thats what is was designed to do in the first place. I know Zac Vetter's not a big fan of shaving/shimming either and he knows his RT stuff. Unfortunately these things are all man made and all seem to have a personality of their own. Some are are just plain stubborn!

I gess you gotta do what yah gotta do.

I have a Retro Valve in my Minimag that will RT in burst fire off just 850psi from a preset tank and a single trigger frame, then goes ape at over 950+. One of my Classic RT's is very sedate at 850psi from the same tank and a double trigger frame, and I'm betting it will take over 1100psi to really get it going, if at all. Of course, both are internally almost exactly the same, so go figure.

I preferred starting up whit the shave pin because it give it a little more lightness and I'm pretty sure the extra o ring down the on/off chamber will not only reduce traveling but will also make it bounce thus reloading faster than stock bouncing against SS .......... and improve RT

Shaving the pin won't make it any lighter, but will shorten the distance between when the on-off closes and the sear releases the bolt. This enhances the RT effect because it takes less overall movement going from fully on and able to recharge to fully off and releasing the bolt and back again.

There is no extra oring down the on-off chamber. The quad oring you use replaces the normal urethane oring. It is softer and has reduced friction which enhances the RT effect.

If you do shave the pin, make sure it remains long enough to allow the sear to catch the bolt lip with enough metal before the the on-off opens to start the recharge. If the on-off opens too soon, the outside edge of the bolt lip catches the sear tip at its point and can damage the bolt lip as well as the sear.

No RT effect with this setup, though the trigger was much lighter than the Classic Mag. Would chop a lot when firing fast. 1. So the first thing I changed was the bolt, got a Level 10. I tuned it with one of the middle carriers, 2 shims. Bolt came far enough to hurt my finger somewhat when tested, 1 ball break out of 200 rounds. And it now had the RT effect! Ball breakage still unacceptable. 2. Tuned the level 10 with a tighter carrier, 4 shims. Lost the RT effect but no ball breaks. 3. Changed out the stock .750 on/off pin for the .712 E Mag pin I purchased from Tuna along with a Quad O ring. RT effect is back, 1 ball break out of 500 rounds. Added a fifth shim and so far no ball breakage. New setup:

I can shoot 1 round bust with the bottom of the trigger, 3 round bust with the center, and full auto by using the top of the trigger. This Mag shoots like a dream! I've been playing for 20 years (31 years old) and I'm so happy I never had to give up on my Mag, just a few upgrades here and there have kept me in the game. Thank you forum friends and thank you AGD!