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Is there a particular wifi adapter that is compatible with the X-35? I wanted to be able to utilize the JVC iPhone app to operate my projector.

If you don't want to run a long ethernet cable, then using any Wi-Fi bridge that is compatible with your Wi-Fi network will work fine. There are literally loads of models of ethernet bridges from Trendnet, Linksys, Buffalo etc etc. There is nothing about those that makes the JVC compatible or not compatible....

Of course you will need to get power to the bridge though which might be just as painful as running a long ethernet cable in the first place.

ok, so, 3D obviously isn't really my thing, but get the most for my money is. since this projector happens to have 3D I wanted to try it out and get it to work as well as possible. tonight I watch a 3D (SBS) of the new Oz movie.

first, the positives:
-I did not see any crosstalk/ghosting at any point during the movie. this alone is enough to make it the best 3D I've watched, haha.
-I was more than content with the brightness, even switched the bulb to it's low setting, though I did continue to use the 3D preset(which I had previously adjusted)

now, the negatives:
-I can't stand the glasses. really, I thought they were a huge improvement and I was so happy they also worked with my plasma, but 15mins in I found myself switching back to the Samsung glasses. I really haven't met anybody with a square head before, I don't understand why they make square frames it's really too bad, cause I think they are close, but just missed the mark for fitting me comfortably.
-I also am not sure, but it really seemed like the lenses cause a small amount of distortion. like cheap sunglasses. found them unusually challenging to clean as well. not sure if I just notice it more because of the 3d, but it took a long time, and only the microfiber bag was able to get the lenses clean.
-the two other ppl I watched the movie with(who aren't blind in one of their eyes like I am) both complained a lot about the 3D. they both said it looked ok when they closed one eye, but with both eyes open it was 'blurry', 'looked weird', 'hurt their eyes', and 'backwards'. I wish I could see what they were talking about, or that they could describe it better. the best I could figure is any kind of motion really hurt the overall image quality, which isn't surprising or unexpected. but they both said the background stuff looked like it was closer and the stuff in the front looked farther away. I even asked them to flip the glasses around and they both confirmed it actually fixed the issue. so somehow the two sides were reversed or something. I assume this is an issue with the video file, but still, it led to some confusion.

my questions:
what the heck does parallax adjustment and crosstalk cancellation actually do?
I can tell by watching the screen without the glasses on that the parallax thing adjusts how the two images overlap, but according to my two viewers it didn't matter if I went into the positive or into the negative. at settings close to 0 the images almost overlap, it's actually almost watchable without the glasses. if I move into the positives I would assume the 3D effect would get stronger, and I gathered from the cryptic responses it did(but since the movie was messed up it made it worse). but what surprised me was when going into the negatives it didn't reduce the 3d effect, or reverse the 3d effect like I expected. according to my viewers it 'made it worse', and they described the min setting the same as the max setting.
can somebody explain what this setting is supposed to accomplish, is there a 'correct' setting, and if so how do I determine that?

crosstalk cancellation didn't seem to do anything, for better or worse. which has me conflicted, on one hand if I can't see a difference I usually leave the setting off assuming it could only cause artifacts. on the other hand, if I can't see any artifacts, maybe the movie just wasn't very susceptible to crosstalk and I should crank it up since I don't see any artifacts anyway. advice?

at the end of the day, I would say i'm completely satisfied with the projector's performance. i'm disappointed with the video file. i'm confused by the settings. and i'm annoyed and saddened by the glasses. you'd think for the price of the glasses they would be a lot nicer. it's not like making comfortable glasses is a new concept. most $10 sunglasses are more comfortable. anyway, if anybody can steer me in the right direction for my questions it would be appreciated. it's very hard for me to figure these out on my own since I can't see 3D. without the absence of crosstalk, i'm a lot more willing to watch 3D movies so that others may enjoy it. but not if I can't set it up correctly.

Is yours wither the most up to date firmware? I have not sent mine in yet

I don't know. I got it a couple weeks ago. never sent it anywhere, but I don't know if it's possible it was made with the latest fw. not sure how to check

probably also worth noting my entire experience with 3D is, two Samsung plasmas(f8500, E550), a commercial movie theatre, and the jvc. all combined maybe 10hrs total. so it's not like i'm an expert by any means. the jvc and commercial theatre seemed similar for me. that is they both presented an adequate 2D picture through one side of the 3D glasses.

I am seriously considering this pj. I have an epson 1080ub now. Is there enough of a difference to justify this upgrade? I can get this at around 2300. I have a dedicated, light controlled room. And black levels are important. I'm also looking at the sony vpl vw50 but it is 600 bucks more. any comments would be helpful.

I have a HD-250 that I really love...How would this unit compare for 2D performance, black level, contrast, picture quality, etc? I want to try 3D now that it has progressed some...My PJ has no lens memory function and I have a 235.1 screen, the screen dance is starting to get me down...What a PITA!

I am seriously considering this pj. I have an epson 1080ub now. Is there enough of a difference to justify this upgrade? I can get this at around 2300. I have a dedicated, light controlled room. And black levels are important. I'm also looking at the sony vpl vw50 but it is 600 bucks more. any comments would be helpful.

I did not own the 1080ub but had a much earlier version, the Home Cinema 400. LCD never able to catch up to LCoS in terms of contrast. My backup HD350 can easily outclass it.

You get horse power, sharpness and contrast, as well as quietness when you move up to the RS45. Same applies to the HD350 vs. the RS45. Color is better with the newer JVC.

I also owned the VW50/60/85 as well as HW10/15/20. Maybe you meant the HW50 which is 3D. Sports is not my main fare but Sony is also a great overall projector. It's also suppose to be better in 3D but that is not important to me at all. Zombie can address this one better.live with

I can live with either Sony or JVC, if they are the same price. Overall built quality goes to Sony though.

I am seriously considering this pj. I have an epson 1080ub now. Is there enough of a difference to justify this upgrade? I can get this at around 2300. I have a dedicated, light controlled room. And black levels are important. I'm also looking at the sony vpl vw50 but it is 600 bucks more. any comments would be helpful.

I upgraded from an Epson hc720, which was a step down, but same generation as the 1080ub. I was in fact considering the 1080ub when I bought it, but didn't have any 1080 content to justify the higher price. the difference for me was ridiculous. the blacks are so much darker, yet the image is much brighter overall. your 1080ub will have better blacks than my 720 did, but I would still expect a huge improvement.

ok, so, 3D obviously isn't really my thing, but get the most for my money is. since this projector happens to have 3D I wanted to try it out and get it to work as well as possible. tonight I watch a 3D (SBS) of the new Oz movie.

my questions:
what the heck does parallax adjustment and crosstalk cancellation actually do?
I can tell by watching the screen without the glasses on that the parallax thing adjusts how the two images overlap, but according to my two viewers it didn't matter if I went into the positive or into the negative. at settings close to 0 the images almost overlap, it's actually almost watchable without the glasses. if I move into the positives I would assume the 3D effect would get stronger, and I gathered from the cryptic responses it did(but since the movie was messed up it made it worse). but what surprised me was when going into the negatives it didn't reduce the 3d effect, or reverse the 3d effect like I expected. according to my viewers it 'made it worse', and they described the min setting the same as the max setting.
can somebody explain what this setting is supposed to accomplish, is there a 'correct' setting, and if so how do I determine that?

crosstalk cancellation didn't seem to do anything, for better or worse. which has me conflicted, on one hand if I can't see a difference I usually leave the setting off assuming it could only cause artifacts. on the other hand, if I can't see any artifacts, maybe the movie just wasn't very susceptible to crosstalk and I should crank it up since I don't see any artifacts anyway. advice?

I hope you didn't leave your audience watching it like that. It sounds like you downloaded an oddly encoded SBS where the left and right frames are reversed! That can give major headaches if you try and watch it like that! I seem to recall there is a Left/Right option when you are watching SBS material but I will have to check the next time I power up the projector!

You do not need to touch the parallax adjustment. It is intended for badly encoded material and moves the centre of the Z-axis either into our out of the screen.

The crosstalk cancel doesn't do much to be honest other than change the brightness. Of course it the image is dimmer, crosstalk is a bit harder to see! But I haven't found much use for it although I did find the last two stops of positive adjustment really did increase the visibility of crosstalk.

I hope you didn't leave your audience watching it like that. It sounds like you downloaded an oddly encoded SBS where the left and right frames are reversed! That can give major headaches if you try and watch it like that! I seem to recall there is a Left/Right option when you are watching SBS material but I will have to check the next time I power up the projector!

You do not need to touch the parallax adjustment. It is intended for badly encoded material and moves the centre of the Z-axis either into our out of the screen.

The crosstalk cancel doesn't do much to be honest other than change the brightness. Of course it the image is dimmer, crosstalk is a bit harder to see! But I haven't found much use for it although I did find the last two stops of positive adjustment really did increase the visibility of crosstalk.

the movie was pretty terrible imo, I think if it wasn't for constantly adjusting stuff and asking 'is that better or worse' like the eye doctor, we probably would have turned it off sooner, haha. I was looking for anything that would fix the issue, I don't think there's anyway to reverse left and right images on the projector

good to know about the parallax. I assumed that was the case, but when viewing without the glasses it really looked like I should have been able to flip the 3d effect. but now that I think about it, I would have to completely reverse the left/right image, not just adjust which side they offset to.

for the crosstalk, are you recommending I leave it at the lowest setting(off)?

SBS 3D is junk, either full frame packed 3D or i'd sooner watch the movie in 2D.

SBS is tough on certain projectors, crosstalk can be excessive vs. the full frame packed version.

parallax adjustments should be left alone, it only moves potential crosstalk from 1 part of the field to another.

i'm sure you're right, but all the 3D I've watched at home has to be SBS, and I've not experienced crosstalk with the jvc yet. truth is I HATE HATE HATE 3D and wish it was not even being made. as i'm blind in my left eye, 3d doesn't work and aside from being a bit of sore spot(kinda envious) I hate to think of how much money, time, and development has been wasted on 3D instead of something that would benefit the 2D experience I use. but I have a sickness, which means if somebody else thinks it's cool, and I can find a way to deal with it, i'd like to have that option as long as it doesn't cost me anything extra(hence the SBS, because i'm not redoing my entire system to support a feature I can't even see). I will not watch 3D stuff on my tv, it is way too terrible. the 3D on the jvc is surprisingly close to the 2D and I don't mind it for bright movies.

anyway, my rage and ranting aside. I certainly wouldn't say SBS is junk anymore than I would say 720p, 5.1 audio, or sitting beside the sweet spot is junk. it's a compromise that less than 10% of the population would even notice, 9.5% of which are avs forum members... I've certainly not had any complaints other than the messed up version of oz we tried last night. avengers, transformers, and Jurassic park were all really well accepted. so for the non-videophile, SBS is still an HD 3D experience. even if it isn't the absolute best available, it's still pretty good when done well

On my 142" screen at 1.25 sw, the best SBS content looks soft compared to the sharpness of the equivalent frame packed version. 3D BD's can be ripped to an MKV format that plays on a $200 media player in full 3D. hard drive space is cheap.

agreed on Oz 3D, that was a tough movie to get through. can't see watching that one again.

On my 142" screen at 1.25 sw, the best SBS content looks soft compared to the sharpness of the equivalent frame packed version. 3D BD's can be ripped to an MKV format that plays on a $200 media player in full 3D. hard drive space is cheap.

agreed on Oz 3D, that was a tough movie to get through. can't see watching that one again.

no question SBS is a step down. i'm just saying it's not THAT bad. I could certainly find worse faults to complain about, if I wanted to be 'that guy', haha. I think the only full frame 3D bluray i've seen was a transformers movie at my buddy's house. guy buys a 2k tv and then 'can't afford' any movies so I bought him a couple 3D movies as a present. anyway, I was way less impressed watching it on his plasma compared to the jvc. i'm sure it would have been clear and sharp if there was only one image on the screen at a time... really bad crosstalk

my issue isn't the player, I have a 3D bluray player, and a ps3, I have a 3D tv, and a 3D projector, and my receiver is 3D capable as well. When i buy things i try to be as future proof as possible, so when things needed to be replaced, they were replaced with devices that supported 3D. but i think it's everything in between the electronics. I have a powered HDMI splitter sending the signal to 3 displays(plasma, projector, bathroom). it's taken a lot of trial and error to get reliable handshaking with all these devices, which scares me away from making any drastic changes. I don't know if the switcher supports 3D, although I think it's 1.4, and i'm pretty sure my cables are 1.4(but perhaps one of the older longer runs is 1.3?). all I know is something is stopping my consoles and BD player from seeing that I can support 3D. i'm not about to rewire the room for this, not when SBS works 'good enough'

bah, all this talk is just getting me frustrated about 3d again. I feel like it's something i'd probably be pretty into if I could see it

Hi,i think the problem is that the left and right are opposite.Try watching it with the glasses upside and it will work without all the headaches etc.
COmmon problem with sbs.
Happened to me as wellwith life of pi.Turned the glasses upside down and presto.Worked a charm.

ok, so, 3D obviously isn't really my thing, but get the most for my money is. since this projector happens to have 3D I wanted to try it out and get it to work as well as possible. tonight I watch a 3D (SBS) of the new Oz movie.

first, the positives:
-I did not see any crosstalk/ghosting at any point during the movie. this alone is enough to make it the best 3D I've watched, haha.
-I was more than content with the brightness, even switched the bulb to it's low setting, though I did continue to use the 3D preset(which I had previously adjusted)

now, the negatives:
-I can't stand the glasses. really, I thought they were a huge improvement and I was so happy they also worked with my plasma, but 15mins in I found myself switching back to the Samsung glasses. I really haven't met anybody with a square head before, I don't understand why they make square frames it's really too bad, cause I think they are close, but just missed the mark for fitting me comfortably.
-I also am not sure, but it really seemed like the lenses cause a small amount of distortion. like cheap sunglasses. found them unusually challenging to clean as well. not sure if I just notice it more because of the 3d, but it took a long time, and only the microfiber bag was able to get the lenses clean.
-the two other ppl I watched the movie with(who aren't blind in one of their eyes like I am) both complained a lot about the 3D. they both said it looked ok when they closed one eye, but with both eyes open it was 'blurry', 'looked weird', 'hurt their eyes', and 'backwards'. I wish I could see what they were talking about, or that they could describe it better. the best I could figure is any kind of motion really hurt the overall image quality, which isn't surprising or unexpected. but they both said the background stuff looked like it was closer and the stuff in the front looked farther away. I even asked them to flip the glasses around and they both confirmed it actually fixed the issue. so somehow the two sides were reversed or something. I assume this is an issue with the video file, but still, it led to some confusion.

my questions:
what the heck does parallax adjustment and crosstalk cancellation actually do?
I can tell by watching the screen without the glasses on that the parallax thing adjusts how the two images overlap, but according to my two viewers it didn't matter if I went into the positive or into the negative. at settings close to 0 the images almost overlap, it's actually almost watchable without the glasses. if I move into the positives I would assume the 3D effect would get stronger, and I gathered from the cryptic responses it did(but since the movie was messed up it made it worse). but what surprised me was when going into the negatives it didn't reduce the 3d effect, or reverse the 3d effect like I expected. according to my viewers it 'made it worse', and they described the min setting the same as the max setting.
can somebody explain what this setting is supposed to accomplish, is there a 'correct' setting, and if so how do I determine that?

crosstalk cancellation didn't seem to do anything, for better or worse. which has me conflicted, on one hand if I can't see a difference I usually leave the setting off assuming it could only cause artifacts. on the other hand, if I can't see any artifacts, maybe the movie just wasn't very susceptible to crosstalk and I should crank it up since I don't see any artifacts anyway. advice?

at the end of the day, I would say i'm completely satisfied with the projector's performance. i'm disappointed with the video file. i'm confused by the settings. and i'm annoyed and saddened by the glasses. you'd think for the price of the glasses they would be a lot nicer. it's not like making comfortable glasses is a new concept. most $10 sunglasses are more comfortable. anyway, if anybody can steer me in the right direction for my questions it would be appreciated. it's very hard for me to figure these out on my own since I can't see 3D. without the absence of crosstalk, i'm a lot more willing to watch 3D movies so that others may enjoy it. but not if I can't set it up correctly.

the movie was pretty terrible imo, I think if it wasn't for constantly adjusting stuff and asking 'is that better or worse' like the eye doctor, we probably would have turned it off sooner, haha. I was looking for anything that would fix the issue, I don't think there's anyway to reverse left and right images on the projector

good to know about the parallax. I assumed that was the case, but when viewing without the glasses it really looked like I should have been able to flip the 3d effect. but now that I think about it, I would have to completely reverse the left/right image, not just adjust which side they offset to.

for the crosstalk, are you recommending I leave it at the lowest setting(off)?

I think the crosstalk adjustment goes from -8 to +8.....On an RS46 it seems safe to leave it at +6 if you are wanting the most brightness as it doesn't seem to add any more crosstalk. But I did find +7 and +8 really did make it worse.

To be honest the Oz The Great And Powerful movie is rather good for 3D utilization and is a reasonably good showcase for it. Normally SBS encoding is that the left side is the left frame and the right side is the right frame, but some movies are encoded the inverse way around (tempted to say wrong way). It could well be this is what was going on here.

Stand-out 3D movies are Avatar and Life of Pi. Hugo is considered good too. Many are fans of Avengers.

Crosstalk is worst watching TV and using the built-in 2D-3D converter. The crosstalk is still bad in the latest models with this. Also, it is not great with PS3 or Xbox 360 using frame packed 3D (720p/60). Once again this has been issue with all generations of JVC. The weirdest thing is the first gen of JVC 3D projectors was pretty good for crosstalk on Blu-ray (but dim), then pretty bad with the second generation (but bright), and then really good with the current generation (still bright). While the Blu-ray performance has changed each generation, the performance in SBS and frame packed gaming resolutions has had minimal deviation between models.

I upgraded from an Epson hc720, which was a step down, but same generation as the 1080ub. I was in fact considering the 1080ub when I bought it, but didn't have any 1080 content to justify the higher price. the difference for me was ridiculous. the blacks are so much darker, yet the image is much brighter overall. your 1080ub will have better blacks than my 720 did, but I would still expect a huge improvement.

Holy crap! that is a huge difference. You may have just made up my mind.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonbud0

I did not own the 1080ub but had a much earlier version, the Home Cinema 400. LCD never able to catch up to LCoS in terms of contrast. My backup HD350 can easily outclass it.

You get horse power, sharpness and contrast, as well as quietness when you move up to the RS45. Same applies to the HD350 vs. the RS45. Color is better with the newer JVC.

I also owned the VW50/60/85 as well as HW10/15/20. Maybe you meant the HW50 which is 3D. Sports is not my main fare but Sony is also a great overall projector. It's also suppose to be better in 3D but that is not important to me at all. Zombie can address this one better.live with

I can live with either Sony or JVC, if they are the same price. Overall built quality goes to Sony though.

Ya, I meant HW. Which one would you choose between the x35 jvc and the hw50 sony, given the sony is $600 more?

Hi,i think the problem is that the left and right are opposite.Try watching it with the glasses upside and it will work without all the headaches etc.
COmmon problem with sbs.
Happened to me as wellwith life of pi.Turned the glasses upside down and presto.Worked a charm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fierce_gt
I even asked them to flip the glasses around and they both confirmed it actually fixed the issue. so somehow the two sides were reversed or something. I assume this is an issue with the video file, but still, it led to some confusion.

I know it's hard to make it all the way through my thesis posts, but yeah we figured that one out thanks. would be better if there was a way to flip the sides in the source so we can wear the glasses normally though.

I think the crosstalk adjustment goes from -8 to +8.....On an RS46 it seems safe to leave it at +6 if you are wanting the most brightness as it doesn't seem to add any more crosstalk. But I did find +7 and +8 really did make it worse.

To be honest the Oz The Great And Powerful movie is rather good for 3D utilization and is a reasonably good showcase for it. Normally SBS encoding is that the left side is the left frame and the right side is the right frame, but some movies are encoded the inverse way around (tempted to say wrong way). It could well be this is what was going on here.

Stand-out 3D movies are Avatar and Life of Pi. Hugo is considered good too. Many are fans of Avengers.

Crosstalk is worst watching TV and using the built-in 2D-3D converter. The crosstalk is still bad in the latest models with this. Also, it is not great with PS3 or Xbox 360 using frame packed 3D (720p/60). Once again this has been issue with all generations of JVC. The weirdest thing is the first gen of JVC 3D projectors was pretty good for crosstalk on Blu-ray (but dim), then pretty bad with the second generation (but bright), and then really good with the current generation (still bright). While the Blu-ray performance has changed each generation, the performance in SBS and frame packed gaming resolutions has had minimal deviation between models.

I have a feeling the use of 3D effects in Oz only made the problem worse. it did look like they put a lot of effort into the 3D on the movie, certainly more than just the junk flying towards you. all the scenes looked like they had many layers to them. I just found the movie itself to be rather slow and predictable

I think i'm probably just going to take a break from the 3D stuff though. I mean I can't see it anyway. and I've got a couple good movies I can use to 'show it off' if needed. despite my distaste for it, I still wanted to make sure it worked well. i'm satisfied with the 3D performance of the jvc. for me, looking through just the right eye, I find it very comparable to what I saw in the theatres

I've done mine with a Lumagen (the 125 point autocal after I'd manually tweaked the greyscale and gamma). I use an i1D3 Pro and the results were really good. I just love knowing that I'm seeing everything how it is meant to look and it's totally stopped my old habit of constantly tweaking the settings.

There are colour boxes with even more points than the Lumagen, but I do think there comes a point where it's diminishing returns. Even going from the 8 point CMS to the 125 point isn't as huge as some people seem to imply IMHO.

Zooming: Been there, done that, bought the lens, sold the lens...now using e-shift.

I've done mine with a Lumagen (the 125 point autocal after I'd manually tweaked the greyscale and gamma). I use an i1D3 Pro and the results were really good. I just love knowing that I'm seeing everything how it is meant to look and it's totally stopped my old habit of constantly tweaking the settings.

There are colour boxes with even more points than the Lumagen, but I do think there comes a point where it's diminishing returns. Even going from the 8 point CMS to the 125 point isn't as huge as some people seem to imply IMHO.

you would think a quality high end display wouldn't need that many points to get good results. like many have said, the x35's colors are pretty darn good, most ppl won't 'need' cms anyway. the advantage to having a gagillion points is it pretty much guarantees ANY display can be calibrated well.