Contributed Comments

Comments: did Fluffer's wild ride (9+) to bypass the apparently lackluster first 3 pitches of Estrellita and found it slightly more difficult than any of the 10a/b pitches higher up. was a great pitch though.

also, know that pitch 6 (after the 3rd class section) is very easy (5.2 perhaps) at the start so doesn't have a bolt for perhaps 50 ft.

I thought the off width crux looked a lot like Kor Ingalls on Castleton Tower but slightly narrower and with abundant face holds and therefore much easier.

P1 - felt more like 5.9 P2 - stellar P3 - the longest pitch, about 120ft, took 13 draws if I remember correctly. a little pumpy P4 - as mentioned, the first 3 bolts are wonderfully exposed climbing. short pitch, maybe 50ft

could certainly link pitches 1 and 2

4 raps to get down: 1)summit to top of p3, 2) to rap station 1/4 up p3, 3) to p1 anchor, 4) to the ground. you MIGHT be able to do raps 1 and 2 in a single rappel with a 70m rope but it would be close. ... more >>

Comments: Stellar route. Tape is nice for the abundant hand jams. I found a 4 friend (equivalent of old BD 3.5) and a new BD 4 to protect the wider sections very well. Also, retreat is possible from below the summit block (when your GF has a panic attack at the leap of faith and forces you to bail). Rap off the slung chockstone 15ft east of the leap of faith down into chimney. Then walk 25ft to the west to another slung block. Rap 25m down to large ledge and pull rope far to the east to keep from sn... more >>

Comments: Easily done as one long pitch with a 70m rope. Felt a little harder than other 5.8s at Turkey Rocks. A few short cruxes but a sinker hand jam was never more than a few moves away. Great route.

Comments: More Rap Beta - when I rapped the west side cold shuts with a single 70m rope as Matt describes, I was about 10 feet off the ground like Alan describes. was able to rap off the ends into a tree and downclimb the tree to the ground, slightly sketchy but doable if you really wanna get down with a single 70m.

Comments: As of 4/7/12, the hanger on the 2nd bolt is still missing but, in my mind, is completely unnecessary. You can clip the 3rd bolt once you are standing on the prominent ledge where the 2nd bolt in located. Great climb. Felt more like 9- to me but was at the end of a long day, so I was probably just tired.