Dry Left Carb Bowl

Hey Guys. Just fixed one problem and now this other cropped up. I can’t get fuel to the left carb bowl on my CB350. The fuel runs strong through the hose but not a drop in the bowl. I removed the bowl and shot carb cleaner through the bowl intake and it came through the passage fine. I even ran a guitar string into the passage and worked it back and forth to make sure there was no blockage. The culprit then has to be the float valve needle. The orifice is clear and the o-ring is good. The valve pin works in and out like it should. The float moves up and down freely and the tab pushes the pin in when the float is pushed up. The pin retracts when the float goes down. With the bowl back on I can hear the float move up and down when I shake the carb so I know the float isn't sticking. Everything seems to be in order but I don’t know enough about the valve to know what would make it not work. Right side carb works fine. What am I missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated. D.

Yes. The floats are fine on both sides. I'm aware of the vent and it's open. Thanks.

Since the likely problem is the shut-off needle and seat (the valve) isn't opening to allow fuel in to the bowl, and there are basically only two reasons that would occur (float height setting was incorrect, or needle too long or sticking), and you insist the floats are correctly set,.... the problem is the needle and seat..... Those parts from the rebuild kit are incorrect.....Put the originals back in, and recheck float adjustment.....Remember, the entire needle must drop, not just the spring-pin re-extend.....

Last edited by 66Sprint; 05-10-2019 at 07:38 AM.

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Since the likely problem is the shut-off needle and seat (the valve) isn't opening to allow fuel in to the bowl, and there are basically only two reasons that would occur (float height setting was incorrect, or needle too long or sticking), and you insist the floats are correctly set,.... the problem is the needle and seat..... Those parts from the rebuild kit are incorrect.....Put the originals back in, and recheck float adjustment.....Remember, the entire needle must drop, not just the spring-pin re-extend.....

As usual this was a self-inflicted wound. After your comment about the float needle needing to drop I right away pulled the carb and realized that when I cleaned the carb I failed to push the float valve seat fully in so the needle didn't have enough space to drop. I wish I had taken a pic. This is just a generic one off of Google. All is well. The bowl has fuel and the bike is running fine. Thanks for your help.

Each of us owe that man a debt of gratitude, which I think each of us has offered him our thanks for at some time in our struggles.

66Sprint possesses an unbelievable personal knowledge of these machines but each of us and particularly those new to it should take a critical look beyond the knowledge at the process of his advice. He (like any problem solver) approaches the issue analytically. Not merely the problem, but where the problem is and what the applicable components are supposed to be doing there. We are all prone to jumping to conclusions. To thinking we know what the problem might be. Too often we chase that assumption while the real problem is right there. 66Sprint is the yin to that yang! He steps up time and again to ground us and reinforce that Mr. Honda had a whole lot of really smart guys designing not motorcycles, but parts of motorcycles that together make a motorcycle.

There are a lot of VERY knowledgeable guys on this site and I do not imply that 66Sprint is the only one. He may be the most prolific though. Thank's Steve and all the other guys who put our collective feet back on the earth time and again. For reminding us that there is a specific path to every solution and following it is much shorter than the temptation to wander through the confusion of possibilities. Always remember fellas, The manual is your friend!

I now return you to your regularly scheduled thread...

"They're not like cars with a body that rusts out in a few years. Keep them tuned and overhauled and they'll last as long as you do. Probably longer." - Robert Pirsig