No places matches the breadth and depth of Mexican restaurants we have in Southern California, except Mexico City itself – and maybe not even there. You can find the cooking of almost every region in the country here, crafted at street-corner taco trucks as well as cutting-edge places like the new Corazon y Miel and Bizarra Capital.

Here are Los Angles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s choices for 14 of the most essential places to try.

1. Babita: One of the most serious Mexican restaurants on the Eastside, a casual corner joint whose service is burnished to a white-tablecloth sheen. Chef-owner Roberto Berrelleza is especially gifted at the cuisine of his hometown of Los Mochis on the Sinaloa coast. 1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 288-7265; Babita-MexiCuisine.com.

5. Coni’Seafood: The elusive Mexican seafood king Sergio Peñuelas, the master of Sinaloa-style pescado zarandeado, seems to have found a home. The aguachile is also the best in town. 3544 W. Imperial Highway, Inglewood, (310) 672-2339.

6. El Borrego As de Oro: Time moves at an ovine pace at this Texcoco-style barbacoa joint. It may take the cooks half an hour to throw together a couple of tacos, but after you taste the crusty, crunchy bits of lamb, you won’t mind a bit. 222 W. Slauson Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 235-1880.

7. El Huarache Azteca: Highland Park is becoming the local center of chilango cooking, with half a dozen restaurants specializing in the meats and snacks from the area around Mexico City, but El Huarache Azteca’s huaraches are still the industry standard. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park, (323) 478-9572; ElHuaracheAztecaLA.com.

8. El Parian: Is the birria, roast kid in consomme, the best Mexican dish in Los Angeles? It just may be. 1528 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 386-7361.

9. Guelaguetza: This is where the whole Los Angeles Oaxacan fixation started, and it is still the best place to get your mole on. 3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 427-0608; ILoveMole.com

10. Guisados: It’s only been open a couple of years, but the original location is already one of the essential restaurants in Boyle Heights. 2100 E. Cesar Chavez Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 264-7201, and 1261 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 250-7600; Guisados.co.