TEHRAN
- The Jewish women in the back rows of the synagogue wear long garments
in the traditional Iranian style, but instead of chadors, their heads are
covered with cheerful, flowered scarves. The boys in their skullcaps, with
Hebrew prayer books tucked under their arms, scamper down the aisles to
grab the best spots near the lush, turquoise Persian carpet of the altar.
This is Friday night, Shabbat - Iranian style, and the synagogue in an affluent
neighborhood of North Tehran is filled to capacity with more than 400 worshipers.

It is one of the many
paradoxes of the Islamic Republic of Iran that this most virulent anti-Israeli
country supports by far the largest Jewish population of any Muslim country.

While Jewish communities
in Syria, Iraq, Yemen, Egypt, Morocco and Algeria have all but vanished,
Iran is home to 25,000 - some here say 35,000 - Jews. The Jewish population
is less than half the number that lived here before the Islamic revolution
of 1979. But the Jews have tried to compensate for their diminishing numbers
by adopting a new religious fervor.

''The funny thing is
that before the Islamic revolution, you would see maybe 20 old men in the
synagogue,'' whispers Nahit Eliyason, 48, as she climbs over four other
women to find one of the few vacant seats. ''Now the place is full. You
can barely find a seat.'' Parvis Yashaya, a film producer who heads Tehran's
Jewish community, adds: ''We are smaller, but we are stronger in some ways.''

Tehran has 11 functioning
synagogues, many of them with Hebrew schools. It has two kosher restaurants,
and a Jewish hospital, an old-age home and a cemetery. There is a Jewish
representative in the Iranian parliament. There is a Jewish library with
20,000 titles, its reading room decorated with a photograph of the Ayatollah
Khomeini.

Khomeini protection

Iran's Jewish community
is confronted by contradictions. Many of the prayers uttered in synagogue,
for instance, refer to the desire to see Jerusalem again. Yet there is no
postal service or telephone contact with Israel, and any Iranian who dares
travel to Israel faces imprisonment and passport confiscation. ''We are
Jews, not Zionists. We are a religious community, not a political one,''
Yashaya said.

Before the revolution,
Jews were well-represented among Iran's business elite, holding key posts
in the oil industry, banking and law, as well as in the traditional bazaar.
The wave of anti-Israeli sentiment that swept Iran during the revolution,
as well as large-scale confiscations of private wealth, sent thousands of
the more affluent Jews fleeing to the United States or Israel. Those remaining
lived in fear of pogroms, or massacres.

But Khomeini met with
the Jewish community upon his return from exile in Paris and issued a ''fatwa''
decreeing that the Jews were to be protected. Similar edicts also protect
Iran's tiny Christian minority.

Just as it radically
transformed Muslim society, the revolution changed the Jews. Families that
had been secular in the 1970s started keeping kosher and strictly observing
rules against driving on Shabbat. They stopped going to restaurants, cafes
and cinemas - many such establishments were closed down - and the synagogue
perforce became the focal point of their social lives.

Jewish
school in Shiraz

Iranian Jews say they
socialize far less with Muslims now than before the revolution. As a whole,
they occupy their own separate space within the rigid confines of the Islamic
republic, a protected yet precarious niche.

Jewish women, like
Muslim women, are required by law to keep their heads covered, although
most eschew the chador for a simple scarf. But Jews, unlike Muslims, can
keep small flasks of home-brewed wine or arrack to drink within the privacy
of their homes - in theory, for religious purposes. Some Hebrew schools
are coed, and men and women dance with each other at weddings, practices
strictly forbidden for Muslims.

''Sometimes I think
they are kinder to the Jews than they are to themselves. ... If we are gathered
in a house, and the family is having a ceremony with wine or the music is
playing too loud, if they find out we are Jews, they don't bother us so
much,'' Eliyason said.

''Everywhere in the
world there are people who don't like Jews. In England, they draw swastikas
on Jewish graves. I don't think that Iran is more dangerous for Jews than
other places.''

Some problems exist

Testimony from Jews
who have left Iran suggests more serious problems than those cited by Jews
inside the country. In written testimony to a congressional subcommittee
in February 1996, an Iranian Jew complained of being imprisoned for two
years on trumped-up charges of spying for Israel. He also said his arrest
was preceded by harassment at work and pressure to convert to Islam. Inside
Iran, Jews say that they frequently receive alarmed telephone calls and
letters from relatives in the United States concerned about their well-being,
but that they themselves do not feel physically endangered. Their major
complaint is the inability to visit family in Israel, and what they say
is inadequate funding for Hebrew schools, which are administered by the
Iranian Ministry of Education.

Although many Jews
hold jobs in government ministries or within state-owned firms, they say
they are unlikely to rise to top positions. In addition, Iran's strict Islamic
law, or ''sharia,'' contains many discriminatory provisions toward non-Muslims.

Jews 'part of Iran'

Still, Jewish leaders
say their community has far stronger roots in Iran than other Middle East
Jewish communities, which were virtually eradicated by massive immigration
to Israel in the 1940s and 1950s. Esther, the biblical Jewish queen who
saved her people from persecution in the fifth century B.C., is reputed
to be buried in Hamadan, in western Iran. The grave of the Old Testament
prophet Daniel lies in southwestern Iran.

''We are different
from the Jews of the diaspora. You see the name 'Persia' in the Old Testament
almost as often as the name 'Israel.' The Iranian Jews are very much part
of Iran,'' said Gad Naim, 60, who runs the old-age home in Tehran. Iranian
Jews trace their history to the reign of Persia's King Cyrus. As the Bible
tells it, Cyrus conquered Babylonia in 539 B.C., liberated the Jews from
captivity, and raised funds for the rebuilding of their destroyed temple
in Jerusalem. The return of the Jews to Jerusalem at that time was accompanied
by a large migration to the lands that were then Persia, and now Iran.

In Esfahan, an Iranian
city fabled for its intricate Persian tile work, the first Persian Jews
were settled under the reign of Cyrus. The ancient city was once known as
Dar-Al-Yahud (''House of the Jews'' in Farsi), and as late as the 19th century
it was the home of 100,000 Jews, according to Elias Haronian, head of Esfahan's
Jewish community.

Today, the city is
a repository of Jewish lore. It has a cemetery with Jewish graves 2,000
years old, stunning synagogues and Jewish mausoleums with tiles to rival
those of the mosques - but a population of only 1,500 Jews.

What happened to
the Jews?

Some converted centuries
ago. Indeed, in Muslim villages surrounding Esfahan, a distinctive Jewish
dialect of Farsi is spoken, and Muslims still follow certain Jewish rituals,
such as lighting candles on Fridays. Others left for Tehran, or for California
or New York. Some went to Israel.

''It is not that life
is so difficult for us, but a minority is a minority... We are like a glass
of water in the sea,'' Haronian said. Haronian, a petroleum engineer, worries
less about persecution than about the faltering Iranian economy, the lack
of job opportunities for his four children, and the shortage of suitable
Jewish spouses. ''There are very few Jewish boys here. There are so few
of us,'' said his 17-year-old daughter, Shirin. At Esfahan's Hebrew school,
students confided that they are deeply torn between a love of their homeland
and a desire to escape from the stifling isolation of Iran.

The decision to stay
or go may rest largely on Mohammad Khatami, a relatively progressive cleric
who won a landslide election May 23 as the next president of Iran. Although
he is virulently anti-Israel in his public comments, Khatami was considered
sympathetic to the Jews during his term as Iran's minister of culture and
Islamic guidance. He paid a campaign visit to a social club for Jewish women
in Tehran. ''We expect more freedom, an easier life, not just for Jews,
for everybody,'' said Farangis Hassidim, an administrator of Tehran's Jewish
hospital.

Not everyone in the
Jewish community favors liberalization of Iranian society. Arizel Levihim,
20, a prospective Hebrew teacher, said Judaism has fared better within the
confines of Iran's strictly religious society. ''I believe it is good for
women to keep their head covered. I think it is good to restrict relations
between boys and girls,'' Levihim said. ''I agree with the ideals of the
Islamic republic. These are Jewish values too."