Mussels mariniere, nestled neatly in a large bowl, are topped by a ruby rosette of "last year’s tomatoes," preserved from Ridgway's mother's garden.

Mention Rosemont, and expect the response to be, "Where’s that?"

But The Pass is putting the tiny Delaware Township crossroads on the map, with affordable food that qualifies as a real experience.

And did I point out the charming setting, with a bucolic view from the windows?

Formerly the Cafe at Rosemont, the 19th-century building was refurbished and landscaped for its spring opening. With butcher block tables, wooden floors and shelving holding a variety of knickknacks, it manages to be both trendy and country without shortchanging either one.

Top chef Matthew Ridgway, who has worked all over the world, returned to his roots near the Delaware River to deliver uncommon three-course meals for an incredibly reasonable $38.50 (there is a $3 supplement for a cheese course).

Paul Mitchell and Matthew Ridgeway collaborating in the kitchen at The Pass.Frank H. Conlon/For The Star-Ledger

The BYOW’s menu, which changes every week, is limited but illuminating, with choices along the lines of crawfish bagna càuda highlighted by anchovy, garlic and citrus flavors; lamb steak dusky with coffee vinaigrette and sockeye salmon steak en brodo, backed up by pickled tomatoes and white beans. Some dishes may seem as obscure as the location, but fear not; the well-trained staff can offer a rundown on every item to reveal its allure.

A Johnson & Wales graduate who grew up in nearby Bucks County, Pa., Ridgway never thought he’d be back in the area. Yet after 20 years away, in kitchens everywhere from Atlanta to Taiwan, he wanted to be closer to home and do his own thing. He lives in an apartment over the restaurant, and also runs a charcuterie business, PorcSalt, which sells to many name restaurants. Its products may be purchased at the Pass from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesdays through Saturdays.

While Ridgway states unequivocally, "I cook French," he’s not into "look at me" dining or tradition-bound food. His techniques just bring out the best in the ingredients, as in the "hot and cold" coq au vin; the breast served slightly chilled, groomed by soy, ginger, garlic and sesame, while the warm, red wine-braised leg gets its gusto from pickled garlic and a bright carrot puree.

The dining room has lots of character.Frank H. Conlon/For The Star-Ledger

Mussels mariniere, nestled neatly in a large bowl, are topped by a ruby rosette of "last year’s tomatoes," preserved from the garden grown by Ridgway’s mother.

In the midst of Hunterdon County farm country, local produce is abundant. Thus, the asparagus with Hollandaise was as perfect as one would expect.

Desserts do not stint on richness when required. The baba au rhum is not only heavy on the rum, with a rum syrup as well, but is also topped by a pastry cream/whipped cream combo for an extra dose of luxury. Rhubarb was handled neatly, as in the Eton Mess, with a blackberry/raspberry compote and coffee meringue for a delicate contrast.

The rustic look of The Pass is part of its attraction.Frank H. Conlon/For The Star-Ledger

Ridgway is running a small operation in Rosemont, though he may expand. His associate Paul Mitchell (he and Ridgway can be seen at work through the window of the kitchen’s swinging door) is his business partner and chef de cuisine. Elizabeth Armani, Ridgway’s fiancée, helps with the front of the house.

Reservations are a must, since the restaurant seats only 36 people. Those using wheelchairs are asked to call ahead, which will enable employees to help them gain access.

In case you’re wondering about the establishment’s name … Ridgway explained that "the pass" in European kitchens is where food comes together, as cooks pass everything down to the chef, who assembles and inspects it before sending it into the dining room.

One of the photos hanging on the wall is the late record-setting runner, Steve Prefontaine. That has a dual meaning for Ridgway; not only was he captain of his high school cross-country team, but he notes Prefontaine "always was a 100-percenter. I try to keep that mantra with me always."

The Pass is not only about his considerable craft and skill. As he puts it, "Hard work, above everything else, is a cornerstone for our restaurant."