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Alright, I decided to stop conjecturing and theorizing about putting a remote start in my 5MT WRX, and did it today. The unit was a DEI model, and also included security and of course keyless entry. I realize this has been done, but the info is scattered and hard to find. Here is some info to help out anyone considering a similar setup:

First, here are the relevant wires and their locations that you'll need:

Notes:
* The keyless module (which is actually the integrated module...see 1/6/05 edit) is directly to the right of the fusebox.
** The OEM alarm harness is behind the glovebox, towards the drivers side. If you have the OEM alarm, it will be plugged into a harness running toward your e-brake. Otherwise, it will be taped to a much larger wiring harness.
***The ECU is under the carpet on the front passenger side. If you're looking at it from the passenger seat, harness 'A' is closest to the firewall, pin 8 is in the middle of the column closest to the firewall.
****Tach wire I used is in a harness just in front of the intake pipe, towards the front fender. Trust me, it's in there.

The only way to integrate the neutral wire is to tie it into the hood pin shutdown wire. It CANNOT drive a relay, so don't even try. (I did...) It is imperative to diode isolate it from the hood pinswitch. Wire the diode with the stripe towards the ECU, so it can only pass negative current, which is what the wire transmits when the car is in gear. It works beautifully.

NOTE: APPARENTLY, ON 2005 AND UP MODELS THE POLARITY IS OPPOSITE OF WHAT IS DESCRIBED HERE! BUT YOU ALREADY KNEW THAT BECAUSE YOU'RE TESTING ALL OF YOUR WIRES WITH A DMM, RIGHT???

To bypass the clutch, use a relay as follows: Pin 85 - (-) trigger for starter wire coming from the remote start relay pack. This is the small gauge wire, not the large guage. Pin 86 - Constant, fused 12V. Pin 30 - One of the wires in the aforementioned T connector at the clutch. Pin 87 - The other wire at said connector. It doesn't matter which goes where, because the point is only to connect them while the remote starter is cranking the starter. Doing it this way is 100% safe, because there is NO way to start the car without either having the clutch in or remote starting it in neutral.

As usual, attempt all of this at your own risk. You can damage the cars circuitry if you don't know what you're doing. Also seriously consider taking these notes to a reputable dealer to have it installed professionally.

Thanks to northursalia.com for the ECU pinouts.

Please feel free to add anything or ask questions.

josh

Edit: This was done on a MY02 WRX sedan. Many of the wire colors will be the same on the rest of the Impreza line, but I'm not sure about the tach wire and neutral wire. Also, unless you installed the OEM trunk light on your RS/TS/OBS, there will be no trunk wire.

1/6/05: Thanks to tegnwrx for pointing this out: The keyless module is actually above the fuse box; the module to the right (which is where all your wires are) is the integrated unit. It is okay to remove the keyless module if you will not be using the OEM keyless/alarm (and it frees up some great real estate!), but DO NOT remove the integrated module.

MY08 info courtesy of Chp_Stix:

Went flawlessly

FYI DEI's Canadian Web Site is only goes to 2006 Imprezza's

Got the alarm/starter combo in without a hitch.

For the key by-pass I made my own 556UW to Transmit the signal and it worked fine,

Got a few extra wires this year and all has changed colors since previous years pretty much... but it was fun and I nailed it first round. So here is the tech info....

Disclaimer (If you dont know how to do this or dont have the right tools lets a pro do it. This is only a guide please take the time to actually double check the wires yourself. Never take tech info as the deffinate there is often multiple wires of the same color code and if you use the wrong wire and send a + or - signal through it you risk fry-ing your ECU)

I wont detail how to remove panels since if you dont know how to do that you probably shouldnt be installing this in your car yourself.

Would you be able to clarify the location of the tach wire. I am not familiar enough with the car to know where the intake pipe is. Is this in the engine compartment? If anyone is wondering about the use of the green tach wire off the ECU, well all I can say is , it did not work with the remote starter I am using.

Yes, this wiring harness is in the engine compartment. If you're looking at the engine from the front of the car, you'll see the air filter box on the left. Follow the black pipe towards the right. You'll see a large bundle of wires, enclosed in loom and electric taped solid. The white/yellow wire is in a smaller bundle of wires within the larger that goes down towards the ground after it exits the large bundle, to the left. It's not easy to get to; there is a TON of tape to cut through.

I metered the green wire at the ECU, but it didn't test properly. It read ~7 VAC constantly, regardless of RPM.

Good luck! I too had to work in the cold, but without the luxury of a garage.

My local audio guy said that he can not bypass the factory alarm, so now every time I auto start my car the alarm goes off from the vibrations. Does this make sence,has anyone had this problem,Or does the audio guy have **** for brains.

Originally posted by flex1069 My local audio guy said that he can not bypass the factory alarm, so now every time I auto start my car the alarm goes off from the vibrations. Does this make sence,has anyone had this problem,Or does the audio guy have **** for brains.

Assuming you purchased an alarm/remote start combo, the only thing you have to do to bypass the stock alarm is disconnect the harness behind the glovebox, where the trunk wire is. Or you can can disconnect it at the alarm itself, which is just to the left of the e-brake, directly under the power mirror controls.

Not asking this to set anyone off, but how much does this DEI alarm/remote start cost? Seems worth the ~$350 to just get a CompuStar system ( http://www.compustar.org/products/1WFM.html ) that is designed for manual transmission vehicles and has very innovative failsafes. That price is including installtion. I got the 2WFM for $500. Love it.

Assuming you purchased an alarm/remote start combo, the only thing you have to do to bypass the stock alarm is disconnect the harness behind the glovebox, where the trunk wire is. Or you can can disconnect it at the alarm itself, which is just to the left of the e-brake, directly under the power mirror controls.

josh

Sence I already have the stock alarm, all I want is a simple car starter.but thanks for the info,if worse comes to worse I'll go with it.

After looking at remote starters for a while I think it would be safe to say there is no such thing as a simple car starter unless you have a automatic. Whatever you buy will have to work with your current alarm system. If you have a manual transmission the clutch safety switch has to be bypassed and many require hood pins for safety. (prevents the remote from working if the hood is up). Another problem you will find is getting a tach wire that works. The green tach wire going to the gauge doesn’t.(at least on mine). Also bear in mind that many will not come with install instructions since they assume you are an experienced installer. Anyway good luck..I am into week three but making some progress.

Originally posted by metoo Not asking this to set anyone off, but how much does this DEI alarm/remote start cost? Seems worth the ~$350 to just get a CompuStar system ( http://www.compustar.org/products/1WFM.html ) that is designed for manual transmission vehicles and has very innovative failsafes. That price is including installtion. I got the 2WFM for $500. Love it.

The thing I don't like about these systems that are designed for manuals is that you have to go through a bizarre sequence every time you get out of the car if you want the remote start to work next time. With DEI, it's always there. And with Subaru, since they were kind enough to provide a wire indicating whether the tranny is in gear or not, it is every bit as safe as the Compustar and Aladdin, provided it was hooked up as I mentioned.

that you have to go through a bizarre sequence every time you get out of the car

Just for the record for those who are unfamiliar with this sequence , it works this way.
Stop the car with the engine running. Put on emergency brake and then put the car in neutral. With a toggle switch (provided with the remote) flip it on and off three times. Lights come on in the dash. Remove the key. The engine remains running when the key is out. Get out of car and hit a fob button. Car turns off and is now ready for the remote command to come back on. If anyone opens a door it comes out of programming mode and cannot be started.

I just had another question about the Tach wire you used. Do you recall the voltage you read there ? Where is the wire from? The reason I ask is because some starters require only ma volts while others require as much as 1 or 2 volts to work.

good info! i'm very curious to see what function the white/yellow wire is, is it possible for you to take a digital snapshot of the wire location? i have to take a look at the wrx electrical service manual again for this wire.

PAC makes a Universal Trigger device called TR-7. It can sense low voltage triggers such as the neutral wire off the ECU and output a full 12 volts.

Originally posted by quynce Alright, I decided to stop conjecturing and theorizing about putting a remote start in my 5MT WRX, and did it today. The unit was a DEI model, and also included security and of course keyless entry. I realize this has been done, but the info is scattered and hard to find. Here is some info to help out anyone considering a similar setup:

First, here are the relevant wires and their locations that you'll need:

Notes:
* The keyless module is directly to the right of the fusebox.
** The OEM alarm harness is behind the glovebox, towards the drivers side. If you have the OEM alarm, it will be plugged into a harness running toward your e-brake. Otherwise, it will be taped to a much larger wiring harness.
***The ECU is under the carpet on the front passenger side. If you're looking at it from the passenger seat, harness 'A' is closest to the firewall, pin 8 is in the middle of the column closest to the firewall.
****Tach wire I used is in a harness just in front of the intake pipe, towards the front fender. Trust me, it's in there.

The only way to integrate the neutral wire is to tie it into the hood pin shutdown wire. It CANNOT drive a relay, so don't even try. (I did...) It is imperative to diode isolate it from the hood pinswitch. Wire the diode with the stripe towards the ECU, so it can only pass negative current, which is what the wire transmits when the car is in gear. It works beautifully.

To bypass the clutch, use a relay as follows: Pin 85 - (-) trigger for starter wire coming from the remote start relay pack. This is the small gauge wire, not the large guage. Pin 86 - Constant, fused 12V. Pin 30 - One of the wires in the aforementioned T connector at the clutch. Pin 87 - The other wire at said connector. It doesn't matter which goes where, because the point is only to connect them while the remote starter is cranking the starter. Doing it this way is 100% safe, because there is NO way to start the car without either having the clutch in or remote starting it in neutral.

As usual, attempt all of this at your own risk. You can damage the cars circuitry if you don't know what you're doing. Also seriously consider taking these notes to a reputable dealer to have it installed professionally.

Thanks to northursalia.com for the ECU pinouts.

Please feel free to add anything or ask questions.

josh

Edit: This was done on a MY02 WRX sedan. Many of the wire colors will be the same on the rest of the Impreza line, but I'm not sure about the tach wire and neutral wire. Also, unless you installed the OEM trunk light on your RS/TS/OBS, there will be no trunk wire.

I wish I had a digital camera. The wire bundle is just behind the plastic intake piping, between the air filter box and the engine. It is probably about 1" thich. The white/yellow is in there, but it is also in a much smaller bundle that exits the larger bundle, going down towards the ground on the left side of the larger bundle, nearer the air filter. Tough to explain.

That PAC TR-7 would be an excellent piece if you wanted to integrate it into the neutral wire, rather than the hoodpin wire, as I did.

josh

Quote:

Originally posted by netZ good info! i'm very curious to see what function the white/yellow wire is, is it possible for you to take a digital snapshot of the wire location? i have to take a look at the wrx electrical service manual again for this wire.

PAC makes a Universal Trigger device called TR-7. It can sense low voltage triggers such as the neutral wire off the ECU and output a full 12 volts.

I finally got mine going ! I used an uncommon wire coming off the coil as a tach. Turns out I had it wired ok to begin with (and help from quynce's post) . I found the problem by comparing my instructions which were for a manual transmission with those for an automatic transmission. Under the training the tach section the two sets of instructions were almost identical except the automatic ended with push the red button. The instructions I was using did not include the red button statement. So after training the tach I pushed the red button. I wasted three days of work over an omission in the instructions.

Originally posted by brunetmj I finally got mine going ! I used an uncommon wire coming off the coil as a tach. Turns out I had it wired ok to begin with (and help from quynce's post) . I found the problem by comparing my instructions which were for a manual transmission with those for an automatic transmission. Under the training the tach section the two sets of instructions were almost identical except the automatic ended with push the red button. The instructions I was using did not include the red button statement. So after training the tach I pushed the red button. I wasted three days of work over an omission in the instructions.

hmmm i wonder if that my problem too...

brunetmj: what wire exactly did you use? wire #?

quynce: what DEI alarm do you have? i have a viper 790 im trying to get working. it keeps reading "No or Low RPM". am i just not learning the tach correctly. i've tried both the C9 green of f the ecu and the uncommon injector wires too. according to my manual it says to hold the valet button and start the car, when the LED stops flashing and is constant then it is programmed. when i do this the LED seems to stop flashign instantly which does not seem right to me.

Shoot. Been looking at wires for so long I cant remember , but it is easy to find. There are three wires on each coil. One is power (red-maybe striped) one is black (maybe striped). You will find these two wires on all the coils. However each coil also has a wire unique to itself that goes to the ECU. I used that unique wire
on the coil closest to the drivers side. To get to it all I had to do was remove the windshield wiper reservoir. I can post the exact color i used later in the day.

Ok. The wire I used was a yellow wire. It is the coil closest to the driver. However if you choose another coil as long as you dont use wires who's primary color is red or black you can use it. These red and black wires have a yellow stripe and are power and ground for the coil.

Originally posted by angryfist
quynce: what DEI alarm do you have? i have a viper 790 im trying to get working. it keeps reading "No or Low RPM". am i just not learning the tach correctly. i've tried both the C9 green of f the ecu and the uncommon injector wires too. according to my manual it says to hold the valet button and start the car, when the LED stops flashing and is constant then it is programmed. when i do this the LED seems to stop flashign instantly which does not seem right to me.

I used the Avital 3300. The tach learning should be the same, though, which is:

1) Start car with key
2) After car is running, within five seconds press and hold the valet switch
3) As soon as the LED comes on, let go of the switch. Do NOT keep it held until the light goes out, this usually creates problems.

If the LED doesn't come on, the wire you're using is no good. Good luck!

Originally posted by brunetmj Ok. The wire I used was a yellow wire. It is the coil closest to the driver. However if you choose another coil as long as you dont use wires who's primary color is red or black you can use it. These red and black wires have a yellow stripe and are power and ground for the coil.

Sorry for the delay of a couple of days, but for record purposes I would like to mention the "bizzare sequence" for getting out of the car with a Compustar.

It is pretty easy....put in neutral, take foot off brake, pull E-brake, take key out of ignition, leave car...when all doors close the system kills the engine, and arms the alarm automatically...then the remote plays a cheezy little tune....

The toughest part for me is remembering to turn the headlights off before I get out of the car....I have always left them on until now....

As for the system, I just had it installed 2 weeks ago, I do really like it, but I am disapointed by its range....1/4 mile?...maybe on a clear day with the planets aligned, and in a vacuum naw it is pretty good...it just doesn't work with steel buildings very well...and it seems like everything is steel anymore....The remote page is novel...if someone taps the windshield over a sticker in the corner the remote rings...of course this is useless if you are in a steel building...I might have to upgrade to the new spread spectrum next year...supposedly WAY better range. Oh yeah it has a super bright blue flashing LED in the car that illuminates the whole cabin! really cool!

The other day I switched my Aladdin remote start from manual trans. mode to automatic so that I no longer have to do the "exit sequence". I tapped the neutral sensor wire at the ECU and connected it directly to the hood pin input, without using any type of diode system as the Aladdin uses voltage sensing not relays to drive the input triggers. It works great!

The only problem is now I don't get to see the confused looks on people's faces when I used to get out of my car with the engine running and then have the engine and headlights shut off magically.