A little preparation goes a long way with tiramisù. First,
prepare the soaking mixture for the savoiardi biscuits (you can
also use sponge cake if you like). It's important to use good,
strong coffee, preferably espresso; if it's weak, the flavour won't
carry through when you add the alcohol. I like to use a combination
of two types of Marsala: Boronia, a Marsala all'uovo, for its
sweet, creamy characteristics, and a drier style such as Pellegrino
Fine Marsala (you can use Boronia alone, but you may need to reduce
the sugar in the recipe). You can find both at good liquor shops. A
nip of the Pellegrino served on the side makes the perfect partner
to the dessert, too. And, although it's not traditional, I also add
a bit of rum and brandy for more of a boozy kick.

You want to make a fair amount of the soaking liquid because the
sponge biscuits, true to their name, soak up a lot. Any leftover
will keep in the fridge for a few weeks so you can whip up another
batch of tiramisù down the track. Set aside the soaking mixture to
cool while you get on with making the zabaglione, or sabayon.

Zabaglione is made by whisking egg yolks and sugar over gently
simmering water with wine, usually sweet and in this case Marsala,
added for flavouring. The mixture should be whisked constantly, but
it doesn't need to be frantic - just keep it moving so that the
mixture heats evenly. Run the whisk around the outer edges every
now and then and scrape any splashes back down into the mixture so
it doesn't burn.

The mixture will become thick and fluffy after a while, but you
need to keep whisking until it's thick and stable, to a point where
it tightens up and becomes more of a silky creamy consistency with
a slight shine to it. The egg yolks have to reach 84C to absorb the
alcohol, but it's hard to get a good reading on a thermometer
because the mixture is so light and airy. Just dip your finger in
and if it's too hot to hold it there, the mixture is ready; if not,
keep whisking. The mixture should also hold a good trail when you
drag the whisk through it, and look creamy; not foamy with small
air bubbles. You're better off overcooking it than undercooking it.
Let it cool before you fold in the cream.

When the zabaglione is cooled, add the mascarpone and cream
mixture. I like to use Paesanella mascarpone, because it's locally
made, and I mix it with cream to make the mixture a bit lighter.
Break the mascarpone up a little first to loosen it so it combines
more easily with the cream. The texture of mascarpone can vary -
some are thicker and drier, while others are more wet. You want to
whisk in the cream just until soft peaks form, but no further, so
take care with a drier mascarpone because this can happen almost
instantly.

Next, soak the savoiardi in the cooled liquid. Definitely cool the
mixture first; the savoiardi soak up the mixture too quickly and
fall apart if it's too hot. You could make your own sponge fingers,
but I prefer using bought ones because they're more stable and soak
up the liquid better. Dip the biscuits into the soaking mix for 10
seconds, then place them straight in the serving glasses or bowl to
soften; they can be a little difficult to work with
otherwise.

Adapt the layering to the size of the glasses you're using (small
ones are perfect for guests who don't want to eat so much). The key
is to have a good balance of soaked sponge and cream mixture, which
is perhaps a matter of taste.

Finish the tiramisù with a dusting of cocoa and grated chocolate
(use good dark chocolate of at least 53 per cent cocoa solids). Or,
if you're feeling fancy, you can make chocolate curls.

Tiramisù is best made the day before so the flavours meld, but it
also keeps well for a few days and the flavours become more melded
as they sit and brew.