A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia

It’d had been close to four years since Franca last spent Christmas in Puglia with her family, and with that in mind our decision about where to spend the holidays this year was never in doubt. But this time her point of view would be different.

For a long time I’ve made my thoughts on Puglia well known, that the region and the people of Puglia are amazing, and the above all the food is incredible too. With mouthwatering dishes that focus on simplicity and developing the natural flavours of all of the locally produced fruit and vegetables that Puglia has in abundance.

Across Italy people have a fondness for the simplicity of Puglia’s cuisine, and having travelled to explore the region numerous times since visiting Franca’s family for the first time in 2010, count myself amongst the the growing international community of lovers who can’t get enough ‘Orecchiette‘ pasta and handful-after-handful of Tarralli into their mouths.

One large component of not just Pugliese cuisine – but general Italian cuisine too – is the high value meat has on the menu. Pork, beef, lamb, rabbit, and even horse is not an uncommon sight on a dinner table, and when the winter holidays come around the table is full of fresh cuts and cooked meat from Christmas Eve to St. Stephen’s Day (Boxing Day).

A Vegan Christmas In Puglia

With three days of multi-course meals planned that would probably stretch across four or five hours (the reality is more likeseven/eight hours), seeing it from a vegan point of view was going to be a conflicted event due to my wanting to see the traditional events and food from the festive season, but would perhaps not feel comfortable as the meat course passes past my plate to the next recipient.

As of late, I’ve decided that it’s better to document the things around me than to just dismiss and criticize them straight from the world go. It’s unfair of anyone to condemn anything without having made the effort to educate themselves about it first, so in light of this, I decided to document and photograph everything that adorned the table, whether I accepted it or not.

Most of Franca and my own documentation of our Christmas eating has of course been centred around the vegan options that Franca’s family have kindly provided for us, but whilst some of my initial thinking was that they’d be adapting some Pugliese recipes for us, the reality was food straight out of Puglia’s traditional cookbook that are already vegan by defeat, and some of them are classic mainstays of many kitchens in the south.

Here’s a look at the both sides of the table during our Christmas in Puglia.

Note – The following pictures contain images of both vegan food, and meat and cheese courses.

Christmas Eve

Traditionally on Christmas Eve Italian’s across the country will forego the usual meat course in their meal and will instead pick a fish dish so that they’re not only offsetting the huge amount of meat they’re going to ingest over the Christmas period, but also due to a long held religious tradition of abstaining from milk and dairy on Sundays and other sporadic important religious dates throughout the year.

For Franca’s family it was going to be a selection of fried seafood paired with a salmon steak grilled on the open fire in the living room. Prior to that, however, there was to be a plate of pasta with a seafood sauce.

Franca and I had a plate of the same cavatellucci pasta, but with a delicious artichoke sauce that neither of us could get enough of – though that was probably for the best considering that there was still food to come.

Between courses Franca’s mother and aunt took to the kitchen to slice up the foccacia that had been made for the day. Two regular stuffed focaccia for the meat eaters – one with leeks, olives and tuna, the other with ham and mozzarella – and one specifically for us two vegans that contained chicory, sultanas, and olives. Needless to say that we both adored the vegan focaccia and soon made short work of eating our way through most of our share.

As the day was growing darker and waistbands all around becoming tighter, all that remained was the final course of sweets, some of which are highly typical at Christmas and rarely seen throughout the rest of the year. The first is called pandoro, a cake of fermented dough that takes close to two days to make from the first raising of the dough to the final baking, and is one of the chief exports from Verona, it’s most commonly thought original home. Unfortunately it’s not vegan due to the amount of eggs that it uses, but from what Franca can remember of eating it in years gone by, it’s incredibly buttery and intensely sweet, but quite light.

Unfortunately my recent love for cartellate couldn’t be sated due to the plateful on the table being coated entirely with honey and colourful sprinkles, but there was some crazy and bitter sweet almond torrone that we could snack on instead that was entirely vegan.

Christmas Day

Enthused to observe the entire occasion of Christmas Day in Puglia and all of the food that comes with it, I was up and ready to watch the whole process of preparation to the arrival and seating at the table of the majority of Franca’s family. First Franca’s grandmother, aunt and uncle arrived, followed eventually behind by the rest of the family, and as soon as the stragglers made their way through the door and placed their coats upon the pile in one bedroom (as is the international custom), plates we’re prepared for the starters.

To open with the family were going to start with the regular selection of multiple cheeses and fresh meat cuts that mark the beginning of so many family gatherings and meals. All of which come from local sources who typically are friends of the family, such is the community here in the south where so many people are either farmers themselves or related to one in some way or another. Our starter on the other hand was simply a refreshing plate of beetroot thanks to a smart suggestion from Franca to pace ourselves with light bites as we’d yet to hit the half way stage in our eating over Christmas.

As is the tradition again the first plate was pasta, again sticking with the Pugliese orecchiette. This time however the sauce for the rest of the family would be a more traditional meat ragu, where as we deviated a little from the norm and opted to start our first vegan Christmas with a lentil bolognese, and I must add that it was out of this world.

What was to follow the first course was somewhat harder to swallow, though thankfully not literally.

I’ve never seen so much meat before in my life. It’s mind-boggling just how much meat was being cooked, although the quantity was simply greater than usual due to the quadrupling of people sat at the dinner table. It was really something special to observe from the other side of the table, knowing full well that two years ago I was sitting at the same table and not giving a second thought to putting the same choice cuts into my mouth, but I’m so glad I’m not that person any more.

Our own choice of secondo was much more to my taste, and still just as traditional a course in Puglia as the other food options being consumed right then.

We chose a simple dish of large field mushrooms, grilled on the open fire prior to the meat, lightly drizzled with oil, with a sprinkling of garlic and parsley. Paired with some salad an oven roasted potatoes, neither of us had any trouble enjoying this stage of the meal.

Between each course there are long breaks where people recount stories and catch up, gossiping about this and that, thankful for the five minutes of rest so that their digestive system can catch up, but finally after the meat course comes the final three. One of nuts, the second of fruit, and the last one of sweets.

Much like everywhere else in the world, sweets at Christmas are a little different to the rest of the year, with some biscuits and cakes making their once a year appearance, and most loved amongst all Italian’s is the arrival of the panettone. Again, thanks to the inclusion of milk, eggs, and butter we couldn’t share a piece with the rest of the family, but certainly enjoyed it’s unique fermented aroma that’s punctuated with an orange fragrance thanks to the zest in the ingredients.

Note – During December we found several bio shops in Italy selling vegan panettone, so if you’re planning to spend Christmas in Puglia, let us know and we’ll put you in the right direction

If the inclusion of panettone wasn’t enough, all across the table was a selection of both home made and patisserie bought cakes and sweet biscuits that soon found their way into the mouths of those who still include eggs and butter in their diet.

St. Stephen’s Day / Boxing Day

On the morning of Boxing Day nobody in the house could face breakfast, especially considering that a whole extra day of eating lay ahead. Thankfully though there wouldn’t be quite the same quantity of food as the previous two days, but enough to fill each and every person seated around the table.

Whilst Franca’s mother cooked a little fresh food for everyone else in the family, we both made better use of the leftover artichokes from the day before, much like my own family tend to do on Boxing Day in the UK.

Honestly, by the end of the day I felt like I was going to pop, and that’s after having paid attention to eating mainly fresh fruit and vegetables throughout the previous 48 hours; but I really enjoyed myself. I loved watching all of the family laugh and joke with each other between forks full of pasta and the piles of delicious sweets. It was that special marriage of food and family that’s unique to watch and an absolute pleasure to be a part of.

I consider myself really lucky to have spent not only a Christmas in Puglia, but also amongst friends and family that I now hold quite dear to my heart. The fact that it’s quite easy to eat as a vegan in Puglia only encourages me to ask that you to consider Puglia in your plans next year. I think you’ll love it.

I’m glad you were able to eat so many things! That certainly is a lot of meat that is served, more than I’ve ever seen at a meal! I am happy that it wasn’t difficult for you to maintain your vegan lifestyle. All the best for 2015 you two 🙂Lauren recently posted…Hotel Review: New Year’s Eve at the Delta Toronto

So totally delicious – I’m glad that you shared with us all not just the delicious vegan foods (so sweet of Franca’s family to make such an effort for you guys too) but also the non-vegan and non-veg options so that we all get a feel for a traditional family Christmas feast in Puglia! I love an English Christmas day but somehow this feast seems a lot more tempting from the food point of view! 🙂 Happy New Year!Shikha (whywasteannualleave) recently posted…From Bali to Chile – 10 countries I travelled to in 2014

Even though I’ve very clear thoughts on not only the consumption of meat and the treatment of animals in the meat industry, I felt that there’s no way I can talk about the vegan observation point of Christmas in Italy unless I cover every angle.

Just boycotting something doesn’t work. You need to show what is being eaten, but also the fantastic alternatives that are readily available. It’s a gradual process of education that I hope this post goes some way to help with.Dale recently posted…Feeling Like A Foreigner At Home – The Downside Of Travel

Yes, funny how that happens. Spanky’s been increasingly helping me on the blog and when I mentioned to her your comment she laughed – she’s the one who’s been on your facebook page furiously clicking on all those photos of food. Looks so good 😉

Just a few months ago we were in Prague in your shoes, thinking about nothing else but the Thai food we would be eating…Right now I’d love a big pork hock with dumplings.

The artichoke sauce was so simply, but absolute delicious. That’s what I love about food in Puglia. They focus on the flavours of the veg itself and not the spices and herbs that many people might usually put in.Dale recently posted…Feeling Like A Foreigner At Home – The Downside Of Travel

Yum! That lentil bolognese looks delicious, I might need to give that a try 🙂 Thanks for sharing your Christmas meal with us, it’s been years since I did a big Italian Christmas, you bought back many memories of lots and lots of eating! I’m not sure my Nonna would cope with me being a vegetarian though, I’m sure she’d try to slip some meat in somehow 😉 Mangia! Mangia!Gina – Our Global Adventure recently posted…We’re All In This Together

It’s strange you should say that about your Nonna trying to shovel meat onto your plate as Francas nonna is the complete opposite! She never eats meat herself as she never used to eat it when she was younger because it was too much of an expense. Really strange to see everyone piling the meat onto their plate and she’s just sitting at the end of the table simply smiling.Dale recently posted…Feeling Like A Foreigner At Home – The Downside Of Travel

That looks amazing! I loved the simplicity in Umbria, we had some incredible food there, but as you say, so meat heavy. Our hosts told us how rife heart disease was in that area in particular. We struggled to find my son dairy free dishes, the combination of meat AND dairy free must be almost impossible. You have an iron will!Alyson recently posted…Unhappy…no way!

We’ll we’d been vegetarian for most of the second year of our travel after spending time volunteering with animals in Thailand and learning a lot about animal rights and their welfare, but only went vegan in 2014. We initially went vegan with Veganuary during the middle of the year, but when the month ended we just kept with it and haven’t regretted it for a second.

I went to puglia this summer for the first time and absolutely loved the food there. I can imagine winter is a lot more challenging for a vegan though…Fiona @ London-Unattached recently posted…Hornets and Patricidal Kings – Sigiriya

So far much of our eating in Puglia has been at Franca’s home, so we’ve had an easier time than most; but we’re both highly confident that given how much of the food here in Puglia is freshly made each day, that it’d be easy to have people whip something together without mixing together any dairy, etc.Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia

Yum! I love the look of your vegan foccacia and the mushroom main – I’m vegetarian rather than vegan but I’d definitely have this for Christmas dinner 🙂Amy recently posted…Finding Some Christmas Cheer in Vietnam

The pasta looks amazing! I went to Italy for a few months as a vegetarian back in 2011 and every single night was served a gigantic plate of cheese as my main course. I have been wondering since how it would be to return as a vegan.Amélie @ mostlyamelie.com recently posted…Volunteering at the 4PAWS Dog Shelter in Penang, Malaysia

We’ve really been sticking to really rustic recipes since returning to Italy, but a lot of our success with our eating has come from doing a good amount of research about which places in each location has vegan-friendly options. We try to connect with people on social media, or just stick to websites like Foursquare and HappyCow to find out what’s worth trying out.

We’re still really new to being vegan so we’re by no means perfect at this yet, but we’re committed to finding out the best way of travelling as vegans and helping others to do so too.Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia

My biggest worry about Europe is that i will survive on Bread and Cheese. I am not vegan just an India n Vegetarian (no eggs directly) and though foie gras sound interesting and is a traditional french cuisine it is something I will admire from far same for meatballs and other hearty Italian cuts.
I have to say I have never seen Mushrooms that big. In India most of the population doesn’t eat mushrooms still and what we get is mostly button. So Pugalia will keep me fed.Parul Sharma recently posted…Arequipa, Peru – Things to Do and Know for a Weekend Getaway

To be honest, the mushrooms weren’t nearly as big as we’d hoped to find. There are some mushrooms that are three or four times the size, but we couldn’t find any in the shops we looked at nearby.

France and Spain were tricky for us when we travelled there as vegetarians in 2014, but we think that with more experience of being on the road and trying to find the best way to eat, we’d do a lot better this time around. It’s just practice and knowing the right things to ask for in the right places.

I bet those days felt like a haze of vegan deliciousness! Am very envious – I love a good lentil bolognese and those mushrooms look insane. My Christmas wasn’t quite such amazing good here in Panama, but the company was awesome so couldn’t complain 😉 So funny to see pasta for Christmas to me too haha!Charlie recently posted…I Want To Travel, But What If I Run Out of Money?

My pasta consumption levels go off the chart when we’re in Puglia, but I really can’t help myself. Especially considering just today I sat next to the fire in the kitchen and watched Franca’s mother make fresh pasta for us to eat during the lunch we just finished. The freshness is beyond description.

Since we don’t live near our family here in the US I’d love to travel for the holidays. I’m with you…instead of turning my nose up to what others are eating I ‘m happy to join them eating (my own vegan options of course) in perfect harmony. =)Heidi @BananaBuzzbomb recently posted…My Wish For You

I’m glad I’m not alone in wanting to share a meal with people, regardless of their eating habits. Sure, I’d love them to cut out animal products from their lives as much as we try to do, but I won’t force them. They have to make that decision for themselves once they’ve been given all the facts.

It’s so nice that Franca’s family has been so accommodating to your dietary restrictions as, based on our own experiences in Italy, we know that Italians are fiercely protective of their cuisine and definitely believe there is a “right” and a “wrong” way to prepare certain dishes. I would think that holidays must be one of the hardest times of the year to stick to your diet (not that you guys seem to be having any trouble) just because so many of the traditional dishes are ones that you can no longer enjoy. It’s lovely that you have found new dishes that you two are able to feast upon as you partake in the family celebrations.Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) recently posted…Hello I Must Be Going

I love how that right and wrong shifts between the regions. Makes me chuckle to see the same dish debated over in each city we go to.

To be honest, I don’t really see veganism as a restriction any more, rather an alternative to eating. It makes us look at food in a whole new light, and rather than sticking to the classic dishes we try to find something less common, less expected, but just as enjoyable.Dale recently posted…A Vegan View of Christmas in Puglia

WOW this is so much food! I can barely handle ONE day of feasting, let alone several in a row. The vegan options Franca’s family prepared look incredible, it’s wonderful that they are so accepting of your dietary choices and inclusive during big family events like this. Lentil bolognese sounds delicious!! Happy holidays to you both!Leah of The Mochilera Diaries recently posted…Year in Review: 2014 in Photos

They’ve been amazing ever since we started being vegan in the summer, though honestly, it’s really quite easy to have vegan food in the South – in Puglia especially – because the food is incredibly rustic and centres on using what’s around them.

I am glad you shared this post with us, it is very interesting to see a first hand account of an Italian Christmas celebration. But wow! There’s so much food! It is so nice that they vegan alternatives were provided for you so you didn’t feel left out, and I am sure your bellies thanked you, even though there was still a lot, veggies are always lighter on the digestion! But the food really looks amazing, you can tell that a lot of time and thought went into this special occasion, and that pasta looks so fresh. Merry Christmas Dale and Franca! I am glad you had a wonderful Christmas at home with friends and family 🙂Katie recently posted…Countdown to India 1 Month: I got a Student Visa!

My goodness that looks like a FEAST! The lentil bolognese looks amazing and I’d definitely be interested in hearing the recipe!

So much meat. I thought that Cypriots were bad for their obsession with meat during the holidays, but I think they’re being outdone by their Italian neighbours… 🙂Andrea Anastasiou recently posted…2014 In Review – The Good, The Bad, The Ugly