With the gentlest possible touch, lift the oysters out of their liquid and check them for any stray bits of shell or grit. If any grit has settled to the bottom of the liquid, pour the clean part into a new container and discard the unwanted bottom layer.

In a large saucepan or small dutch oven, melt the butter. When the foam subsides, add the shallots along with a pinch of salt and a grind of pepper, then sweat the shallots until they’re soft and translucent (you do not want to caramelize them – pale is the goal). Add the milk, cream and oyster liquid and bring to a bare simmer.

Add the oysters and continue simmering just until their edges ruffle. Ladle into the oldest-fashioned soup plates you can find and serve immediately with oyster crackers, hot sauce, and salt and pepper for the table. 🌊

In a stockpot or dutch oven over medium heat, add the butter, celery, onion and bacon and sweat until the onion is translucent and the bacon is glossy, about 8-10 minutes. (You don’t want any kind of browning or crispness here – soft translucency is the goal.)

Add the potatoes, parsnips, flour and salt and stir with a spatula until everything is evenly coated in flour. Add the milk and simmer until the potatoes and parsnips are very tender, about 25-30 minutes. (Remember: no boiling!) Stir frequently, scraping the bottom to prevent sticking.

In a separate pot over high heat, add the beer and the clams and cook, covered, until the clams open, 4-5 minutes. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and drain, reserving the liquid. Fish the clam meat out of the shells and contribute the shells to your local midden.

When the potatoes are done, add the clams, the clam/beer broth (do not pour the last of the broth – any grit will have settled here), and the tarragon and parsley. Taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Serve with lots of freshly ground black pepper. 🏔️