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5 Dish brackets were installed last week! Custom made for 5 building tenants. We were grandfathered in by management....And i totally appreciate what they did for me. But i now have an issue with my 5 LNB dish and distance. The brackets were placed 300 feet away from my location. I did the cable run on a SWM SYSTEM with minimum issue, just that my DB is to high (51) A friend of mine that works for dish network came over to check the cable run and DB. He found the DB way to high. My signal looks great till now (satellite 101, 100%) on transponder 18.

Thursday i have a CEDIA Certified, Licensed Telecommunications Wiring Contractor, SBCA Satellite Certified Installer Licensed & Insured in NJ, NY, & PA calling me with a estimate and job description. He also recommend me to switch from SWM system to directv 4 output legacy 5lnb and run 4 cables at 300 feet each= total of 1200 feet of cable and run a 8x16 switch i think.

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Custom mounts are always... interesting. The regular mount is designed to be used with monopoles, even when the base is secure. You may want to consider a low profile mount: http://www.solidsign...ount-(STUBMNTR)

More info about the setup would be needed to properly tell if something will work for you. If you only have 1 HD receiver, SWM LNB -> 300ft SCC RG6 -> PI29 -> 10ft RG6 -> IRD, would get the job done, but would not leave room for expansion.

Whatever you do, make SURE that you use coax with a solid copper core, NOT the much more common CCS or copper-coated steel. I mistakenly used CCS once and a SWM run had low-signal dropouts at only 150 ft - and SWM runs are much more forgiving than legacy LNB runs. Directv specifies Perfect Vision RG6 Solid Copper coax with PPC EX6XL compression connectors. Both are good stuff. Do not under any circumstances use crimp or twist-on connectors.

Quad shield is 1) a pain to use and 2) very seldom used in satellite installs, unless you live next to a transmitter or something like that.

RG11 solid copper is the way to go for long runs, it's just expensive and stiff. It will need a different strip tool and specific connectors because it is larger.

Well, i have 3 D-12 standard directv receivers and 1HD H24-700. I also wanted to prepare for the future if one day i decide on upgrading to DVR/HD receivers.

This morning i spoke with the SBCA Satellite Certified Installer
Licensed & Insured in NJ, NY, & PA. He told me this morning that he had a talk over the phone with few techs from ditectv. He was told to switch me from SWN to a 4 orange output LNB with built in AMP's, a LNB that directv will have to ship and a 6x8 switch.

I wanna know if this Installer is correct? or should i stick with my SWM and add a rg11 cable?

This is a matter that's somewhat subjective. I don't want to say the other guy is right or wrong. I'll say from my point of view you would be unwise to move away from a SWM system when DIRECTV is moving away from the legacy multiswitches very quickly. In my opinion RG11 cable with an LA141R-T or SWMA2 amplifier is the way to go here, and stay with a SWM system.

With a long run you may run into issues if you decide to go with multi-room viewing, and there really isn't a product out there to address that effectively yet. However, this amp should give you adequate signal to the receiver while giving enough strength to the return path signal that SWMs need.

Opinions expressed by me are my own and do not necessarily reflect
those of DBSTalk.com, DIRECTV, DISH, The Signal Group, or any other company.

With a long run you may run into issues if you decide to go with multi-room viewing, and there really isn't a product out there to address that effectively yet. However, this amp should give you adequate signal to the receiver while giving enough strength to the return path signal that SWMs need.

The long runs "shouldn't be" an issue "if" they aren't after the splitter.

I have a question... The switch above, when installing the "DIRECTV SWM-8 Single Wire Multi-Switch" Do i leave this switch behind with the dish are do i run this switch with the 300 feet cable run then use the "DIRECTV SWS-8 Satellite 8-Way " http://www.solidsign...llite Splitters

I have a question... The switch above, when installing the "DIRECTV SWM-8 Single Wire Multi-Switch" Do i leave this switch behind with the dish are do i run this switch with the 300 feet cable run then use the "DIRECTV SWS-8 Satellite 8-Way " http://www.solidsign...llite Splitters

OR leave as is and just include the Sonora SWMA2-T Sing Input SWIM Amplifier with my all ready SWIM system?

Your first link is to a whole page of switches, but I'm guessing you're looking at the SWM8.The SWM8 is the same as the SWiM LNB, so I don't see a reason to change.300' of RG6 is a bit long even with that Sonora amp, as the SWiMLNB has about -30 dBm, the 300' has -26 dB and the amp has 13, which means -43 dBm. -43 dBm is "OK", but then the loss of the splitter and coax to the receivers can't be that much. You've got maybe 15 dB of loss to play with, which means one 4-way and 50' before you're pushing it.

I meant SWM8, sorry. Should i buy the PI-29 instead of a PI-21 like dielray stated? And use pi-29 with my green label DIRECTV SWS-4 Satellite 4-Way or just keep the the pi-21?

Thanks

Your first link is to a whole page of switches, but I'm guessing you're looking at the SWM8.The SWM8 is the same as the SWiM LNB, so I don't see a reason to change.300' of RG6 is a bit long even with that Sonora amp, as the SWiMLNB has about -30 dBm, the 300' has -26 dB and the amp has 13, which means -43 dBm. -43 dBm is "OK", but then the loss of the splitter and coax to the receivers can't be that much. You've got maybe 15 dB of loss to play with, which means one 4-way and 50' before you're pushing it.

Finalizing my order and turn this over to my building management company in case the other estimate from SBCA Satellite Certified Installer fails. I'll just tell management i can do the job myself by purchasing equipment and pass the bill on to them..

One thing i noticed. the DIRECTV SWM-PI 29V works for SWM-8 and SWM-16. I have the SWM-4. Will the DIRECTV SWM-PI 29V still work on the SWM-4 SWITCH?

There isn't a SWM-4, but I'd guess you have the SWiM-LNB [which is the same as the SWM8, but included in the LNB] and the 29 volts works fine with it. "In fact" with long coax runs, it's known to work better than the 21 volt.I've run my SWiMLNB with a 29 volt for years without problems.

There isn't a SWM-4, but I'd guess you have the SWiM-LNB [which is the same as the SWM8, but included in the LNB] and the 29 volts works fine with it. "In fact" with long coax runs, it's known to work better than the 21 volt.I've run my SWiMLNB with a 29 volt for years without problems.