It showed me that if normal current is 0.10 Amps and I'm operating on 24 Volts AC (hooked up to a Calsense ET2000e) then my Ohms resistance should be 240.

I'm wondering if there is a standard deviation away from normal that indicates a defective solenoid?

Thanks for the help. I'm hoping to be thorough before chucking this solenoid and ordering a new one.

We went through a long debate less than a year ago about ohms law. Some of it not pretty

I have a ballpark measurement I use, I read the specs of a new solenoid and adapt the measurements to fit the ocassion.

Say rainbird specs say 30-39 ohms / .41 inrush and .28 holding amps @ 24 vac I can determine the brand and get an idea of the condition of the solenoid from the controller. Bad wire paths can throw a wrench into troubleshooting as can a deterioration of any other electrical component.

You say you have working valves, measure them for comparison, call griswold tech support for the resistance values and measure and benchmark the entire system. It matters more what you are looking at in the field than what a new component should read when it leaves the factory.

Good advice. I'll call Griswold for reference and proceed accordingly. I'm in agreement that I should benchmark based on the other valves, especially since the whole system was installed at the same time and the valves are approximately the same distance away from each other(+/- 100lf ).

That valve found its way into some insanely over-spec'd residential systems I encountered. Griswold Series 2000 valves (with or without massive low-current-draw solenoid), and Thompson fixed-arc gear drive rotors, built along the same lines as the Griswold valves, with a cast-iron body enclosing brass works.