. . . NOT THE HOLE

The Archives

Of fins and memories of summers past
Southern California’s amazing monster South Swell two weeks ago brought epic surf to most south facing beaches, but left west facing beach breaks like my home break, Manhattan Beach, with massive close outs if the tide wasn’t perfect. I was lucky enough to catch the tide right for surfing--the Stretch Quad detailed before, on one of the mornings, but the low tide boomers brought me back to my bodysurfing roots.
My dad was first and foremost a bodysurfer. He was old school all the way…Never, ever wore fins, and rode in the straight ...