At first I thought that the 1 1/4 wide twill tape was being partly encased by the bias. In the photos it looks like some of the twill tape is visible from the right side (flanked by strips of bias). Or the bias tape could just be laying on top of the twill tape.

Or maybe the bias tape is still on top of the twill tape, but the opening is facing the opposite way? Maybe the bias opens up at the edges of the twill tape and then the bias is used to enclose the edges of the body fabric?

Just like the directions, Im making this WAY more complicated than it really is. I wish there was a picture instead of all the words they used. I would love to know how the twill tape/bias/fabric sandwich is supposed to look. I drew a jpg of how I think the layers should fit together, but there is no way to post it.

Thank you, but while that dress uses the same pattern pieces, its constructed differently. It doesnt actually use bias strips at all, just twill tape (wheras the top version uses both bias strips and twill tape.)

I think its time to flush the directions down the toilet where they belong and just start sewing.

I'm curious though, when you say about Burda,
'they use bias strips rather differently than most people use it'
what do you mean?

I don't make many things from Burda, but I would consider anything that makes their instructions more comprehensible to be a valuable tip.

I'll go check my instructions in a bit and see if I can make more sense of them :/

Rather than folding two edges in, or folding two in and then again on itself, Burda has you fold bias strips only in half once. Then the strip is attached with raw edges even--the strip raw edges usually even with the raw edges of the fabric, however it may change with your SA, however it is necessary to attach it so that the fold is about 3/8" to the LEFT of your sewing needle. Towards the fabric. Then you trim the fabric, fold over the bias piece, and topstitch it down.

Does that make sense? I can do a couple photos to show what I mean if you need. I imagine that's what they've done here, only perhaps raw edges even on the wrong side so the bias would fold over onto the right side.

Anyway, I'll check my instructions in about 20 min or so and come back and let you know what I think xD;;

Well that's silly. They explained that in a weird way. I think all they want you to do is to use doublefold bias tape, encase the raw edge in between the fold and topstitch it in place. The whole "press in half slightly shorter" is an instruction to make doublefold from single.

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