All this to produce a meal that costs patrons a mere $270 a seat — not including wine and other add-ons. (The "s'mores" option in one course, for example, adds a supplemental $30 to the bill.)

There was no supplemental charge for the three kinds of salt -- gray from France, white from the Philippines and pink "jurassic" salt that the server explained was "40 million years old." I was attracted to the Jurassic salt, of course. Who wouldn't be? But it pretty much tasted like salt.

The final bill — as breath-taking as the meal itself — reminded me of a modest mortgage payment. But I can say honestly and without reservation it was worth it. It was the most amazing meal I've ever experienced.

I'm sure my kids won't mind that they'll need to work an extra year or so to cover college loans.

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