soldering a slip coupling tight spot

My Woodford model 22 sillcock ruptured. (I had a Y connector attached to the spigot). I cut out the rupture, intend to put in a slip coupling. See photo. Problem is, it's in a corner - Will have to tip the torch to solder the rear section of the 3/4" pipe.- I assume that the blow torch will shut off when I tip it. First time I have attempted to solder. Any suggestions?

I have removed the valve stem.

I bought a Bernzomatic with a standard JT681 torch head. Don't want to spend much on a torch - I don't plan on using one very often. I do have this very small butane "Handy Torch" 1300 degrees Fahrenheit. Is that hot enough? (See photo)

I assume the slip coupling will work. New sillcock is $85 at www.buywcm.com so I would prefer not to replace it.

Another question - I used a tube cutter - but wasn't able to turn/cut all the way around the pipe - ended up pulling off the section I cut - which is why the cut has that bulge. I assume I need to re-cut it - but would rather not. What do you think?

Since you have that torch, you might as well try it. I have reservations about it being "man enough" for soldering pipe joints, but maybe. I would suggest you flatten a #10 can to use as a heat shield both on the joist and the sill plate. Also have a spray bottle of water handy to quickly put out any fire you may start. Since you've never soldered before, a couple of tips. Clean the pipe ends and the inside of the fittings with emery cloth or the special wire brushes. Be sure you apply plenty of flux...too much won't hurt. Apply heat to the fitting and not directly to the pipe. Heat the joint until the solder will melt when touched to the heated joint. You do not melt the solder directly with the torch. Run the solder around the joint so the melted solder for sure flows around the entire joint. You can wipe the hot solder with a damp rag to clean off burned flux and lumps of solder, but don't move or put stress on the joint until it has cooled. And, don't try to hasten the cooling process with water, let it cool naturally. I can't see the bulge too clearly. It is true we do want a 100% smooth, flat cut, but in reality, if the end is close to square and the coupler will slip on the end, it should be OK. You might want to use a file to take care of any rough spots.

Question: Can you unscrew the sillcock from the wall so you can get a little play in the copper (tilt it up) and then make a cleaner cut?

You're right in thinking it's a bad cut.

If you can't get any play in the copper, you could try to notch out the wood under the copper so your tubing cutter won't bottom out so fast and allow you to make a cleaner cut. I would use my Dremel with router bit for that, but there are other ways.

Have you actually tried the slip coupling over the valve body? I would be surprised if it is a standard size tubing, and unless you restore it to the original length, exactly, depending on its interior parts it may not operate properly.

Matching the exact length of the original tube is something I had not thought about - could be a problem. Will go ahead and give it a try. If this doesn't work, I have only wasted my time and the $3.50 for the repair coupling. My wife wanted to hire a plumber - but it's such a small job, I figured I might be able to fix it...

A Sharkbite will not work because it has an insert that fits inside the tubing in case it is used with PEX or other plastics and your stem would not go through it. The temperature of the flame is not as important as whether the flame is large enough to heat the entire tube and fitting.

I soldered the 3/4" slip coupling - it worked. Thanks for all the comments.

Click to expand...

I had a feeling it would work. Back in the day I worked cheap, worked for cheap people and I was able to beat the splits back down flush, sand it real good and solder it up, no leaks. It's not right but it worked back then.

I'd never attempt that today though, besides I make more money replacing than repairing.