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I know the water is coming in from the cracked, broken, and (recently found) missing section of window track. I am exploring other options right now but am going to have to do something quick. It looks like new tracks from Marinette. I have heard good things about them from A Boat Reborn I was just trying to find a less expensive route.

Thanks for the info on the manifolds.

You can purchase replacement plastic tracks for the windows. I know a couple people who did that route. My only issue with that route is you are going to do the work again when those crack and break. Even though you might spend more money on the metal tracks, you wont have to touch them again.

The manifolds took me longer than expected just due to unforseen issues and my clumsiness. As I mentioned I was told to not by new backplates as we could reuse the ones that were on there. Being they were tight to the wall of the engine bay I couldn't see they were cracked or rusted out. Spend the money and buy the new backplates. If your manifolds are in terrible shape then your backplates are just as bad. The clumsiness I speak of is how I kept throwing parts into the river that we needed. That set us back a weekend. Total work time was about 12 hours for both engines.

Thanks JT,
By backplates, do you mean the end caps on the manifold on the end opposite the elbow? I know my starboard manifolds are bad. I plan to replace them before we put the boat back in the water next spring. I will replace the port manifter in the season

Hi KC55,
Sorry I've been MIA for so long; work, kids, holiday's - it's been crazy. I keep meaning to send you some photos to post on your new website (awesome idea, BTW...thanks for setting that up)

Regarding the windows....they are a pain and a weak spot on KC. One thing to remember is the bottom tracks do not prevent water from coming in - the aluminum angle at the bottom is for that. However, if the bottom tracks are filled with debris, it can cause the water to rise above the angle and run inside. It's important to keep the tracks clean. The side and top rails can leak, though, as there is nothing other than the rail to keep the water out. It may be possible to recaulk the side and top rails without removing them as a temporary fix to keep water from getting between the hull and track. You'll have to remove any old caulk and clean the surfaces with solvent before caulking.

I think the best long term solution is to make the aft most sections of glass in each opening fixed, especially in the large forward windows. The windows and tracks would be removed, and angle aluminum installed in place of the tracks so that the glass would butt against the angle. These window sections would then be bedded in compound (maybe 5200 or regular silicon - not sure) and held in place with smaller sections of angle butted against the glass and screwed in place. The front window would still use tracks so it could slide back (the track would have to be offset some to allow it to come back by the fixed section. I don't know if this makes any sense, but I've thought about doing it with my boat. If I get some time, I may try and sketch up my idea in SketchUp to better visualize what I'm thinking about.

I'm not sure what kind of door/window you have on the rear of your 44. My 40 has a large sliding window/door - essentially a scaled down patio door. The track on the bottom has holes designed to allow water to run out. There is also an angle designed to keep water from coming in, but never worked well on mine - water would sometimes collect in the track and run over the top. I added a section of flat aluminum to "extend" the lip of the angle to allow more "water capacity" to the track before it can spill over.

Another problem these boats have is condensation - this is a real problem especially if you keep the boat in the water over winter (as I do). I run a dehumidifier in mine, and also a small fan blowing out the front cracked window. If I don't, my boat will literally rain on the inside during those winter days when the sun shines and it gets above freezing. This led me on a goose chase at first, thinking I had other leaks on the boat when it was actually condensation running down the walls!

Glad you're back

Fisheatingbagel,

Glad your back. I'm looking forward to those pics of your boat. I've finally decided to go ahead and buy the tracks from Marinette. I talked to the guy, John, and he seems like a good guy. I figure it won't be like getting custom double paned, tinted windows, but it should be a permanent solution to use the aluminum tracks. I think I understand your idea on making a fixed-frame set up for the windows. If you try it I would be interested in how it works out.

I really appreciate your comment on the condensation. It's good to know that kind of stuff in advance, I can plan for it. That is something I noticed on our boat, but I don't think I was paying enough attention to the issues it could bring. I think a dehumidifier is on the horizon.

I am not to the rear window yet, but I will remember your post when that gets addressed.

Quick question for Kingscraft rebuilders. Did you remove the paneling that was installed inside the walls? It seems like it will be very difficult to get it out and I was wanting to hear the thoughts of any of you who have faced this before.

Interior wall material, not interior paneling

OHB,

I'm not talking about the interior paneling, we are in the middle of tearing that out and installing new. I should have made myself clearer, sorry, but this is a little confusing.

In the inside of the walls (after you tear out the old paneling) the factory put sheets of paneling between the exterior sheet aluminum and the aluminum framing. It is almost like they were using it for sound deadening or insulation. It appears to have been put up next to the framing (c-channels and such) and then the exterior aluminum sheeting was held into place and welded. This made a framing/paneling/exterior sheeting sandwich. It will be difficult to get out. I hope that helps explain the configuration.

I am planning on insulating with Dow closed cell insulation board inside the wall. I just wondered what the rest of you did if/when you ran into this. I don't think it would hurt it to stay there, but I was hoping to get some thoughts or actual experience.

If understand you correctly it sounds like they are using the pieces of paneling as a thermal brake. This would help a little by trying to lessen temperature transfer from exterior to the framing there for trying to lessen the condensation that all metal boats experience. Since you are removing the paneling I would recommend that you spray foam insulate all of it including the framing. The insulation board will help somewhat in the summer with cooling but will do nothing to help stop the condensation you will get if you try to heat in the winter.

Pluckebaum started using spray foam in the late 80's early 90's to combat condensation. My 91 Plucke is spray foamed from the chine up. Still any aluminum that is in contact with the cold exterior and warm interior air WILL form condensation.

Thanks for the response and the info. I will definitely look into the spray insulation. I like those Pluckebaums, I am tickled with our KC, but I really admire some of the "competition". Any advice on carpet padding?