Can I tune either the force rear mech, or 7900 front? I think the 7900 FM has ti bolts as standard...

If you find out whether the 7900 FM has Ti bolts let me know. You can test them with a magnet-magnets won't stick to Ti but will to steel. Toronto cycles looks like a good source for Ti and Al bolts from what I can tell. I think Al bolts are slightly lighter, though not as strong, should be fine for the adjustment bolts at least??? Also Al is cheaper. Toronto cycles have a lot of tuning bolts for rear derailleurs too, though I'm not sure about SRAM. I just caught the back end of your thread, I think you have a Shimano derailleur? You could compare the bolts on that to the Force RM before you order.

I'm getting a 2nd 7900 FM off ebay, has a bit of wear by the looks (a year old, they must have either done like 50,000km in a year, or they really didn't have their derailleur adjusted correctly), but that won't bother me as I'm running friction downtube shifters for the front, and mostly stick in the one chain ring anyway.

Also, I can't tell from your pics, but I'm assuming based on the weight that you have a band-on 7900 FM? Could certainly give the band some drillium. I think given the compression limitations of modern carbon frame seat tubes, that standard FM clamps are way over built, with way more metal than they could ever need, enough metal to crush the frame to a pulp if you could tighten the band enough. Most of the torque and strength is required on the clamp closer to the derailleur, on the non-drive side it would be at its least, so more/bigger holes towards that side. If you could post some pictures of the FM I might be able to think of more suggestions on where to drill/mill.

I'm thinking that (2) stroke adjust plate must be easily tunable. You probably still need it, but that raised vertical bit that divides the two screws seems superfluous, just so you don't accidentally screw the wrong one (duh!). Surely there's half a gram there!

With (4), there seems to be two options with that plate bolt fixing screw for some reason, one with a longer 4mm bolt and washer, and one without the washer but with a 3mm bolt. Presumably the later will be lighter.

I have not read all the posts in this thread so forgive me if I've missed it somewhere. My SuperSix 3 came with sweet looking red anodized bar end plugs which to my horror weighed 25g a pair! Sure, they look super sweet, but I swapped them out for the stock LizardSkinz plugs and saved about 20g.

Also, the expander / top cap weighs quite a bit in the stock headset (30g or so just for the top cap if I remember) but swapping out a Token top cap left me with a loose headset, so the stock set up is back.

I've seen some interesting posts lately regarding stem plugs. Extralight Ultrastar looks promising at only 7g, plus a top cap at 8g (take your pick...there are tons) is significantly lighter that the stock FSA plug. Seems like the jury is out...some have had success with it, other not.

Still left to do:Stock post to Easton EC90 0 offsetSchwalbe Durano S to Ultremo ZXZipp QR to Token TiFizik Arione to Arione Carbon braidKsyrium Equipe to Easton EC90 SLX tubs (if I switch to tubs I will obviously not buy the Ultremos)New Cannondale stem plug if I can get my hands on oneTune RD bolts

I'm currently sitting at 15.89lbs. Excited to see what the new ritchey gear will do for my total weight. I'm looking into the possibilities of new carbon wheels. Boyd 38mm clinchers will bring me down to 1380g. My current alloy vitesse 30mm wheels are 1480g so as of now I'm not sure if I want to drop $1050 for 100g.

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