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Topic: 2-6-0 Mixed Trafic Tender Locomotive (Read 17259 times)

Impressive amount of precision work in these cylinders and valves, wow...is it easier to do the guide bar bracket as a separated piece or included in the rear cover ?

No about the same you just have to keep every thing symmetrical about the centre line. I cut them using a spin indexer off a mandrel the same as I did for my Simplex were they are part of the cover.

Wow Rod they are lovely photos (PM will be on the way) not every one likes the look of the engine the big inclined cylinders make it look crab like hence the name for this class of loco, but I think they make them look strong and manly: made to pump weights

Thanks for your comments chaps

Her's a few more in process shot build:-

The horn blocks were made from the off cuts of the cylinders

The frames were Laser cut the horns were screwed in place and the frames bolted back to back and the horns milled out so that everything lines up

Hi Stew, I've only just found this thread and I love it. It's good to see largish stuff being made.... those cylinders are wonderful. I have always fancied having a go at a loco but am reluctant to be tied to a track on Sundays! I shall be enjoying your build from now on

I,ve just completed machining the wheels: I was given a set of casting by a friend, some one had made a start of machining them the outside face had been machined up and the hole for the axle had been machined, some had the back face cleaned up, and all had the back hub face machined, but the hole was too big and the hub face was to thin meaning the rim of the wheel would rub on the frame. A set of unmachined casting will set you back about £200 so it is well worth the effort to recover them.

First job was to fit a bush with a flange to the bores fixed in place with high strength loctite and a small grub screw fitted down the joint.

That should keep it in place.

Next job was to set the wheel up in my four jaw chuck clock the dia of the bush up true and tap the back face of the wheel up against the face of the chuck, to do this I had to put some packing on the jaws in the shape of some small button magnets.

With a boring bar to get every thing running true rouch the bore out and finish off to size with a reamer

Face up the new hub to give the correct stand out, face the rim to the correct thickness and turn the dia for the flange to size.

I have a 300mm old fasion vernier to measure the rim, the price was right and it does the job

To machine up the front face I used my home made face plate that I made a few uears ago from a disc of steel donated by bluechip, so that I could clamp down on the rim I used two way tape to stick four washers to the plate and I screwed a mandrell into the centre.

Turned the mandrell up for a nice push fit on the bore.

Rough out the out the wheel tred dia and flange thickness

With a radius tool finish off the dia and flange thickness

Using the same mandrell as for the face place mount it on the mill and clock the mill up on it zero the DRO and move the off set for the the crank pin and lock the table up.

Drill and ream for the crank pin:- its important that the off set is exactly the same for each wheel so once you've done one don't move any thing.

Up till now I've been using the white Harris Stay-Silv flux, do you like the Tenacity better? The Stay-Silv does seem to have a short working time. I have read some good things about the Tenacity. Which version are you using, looks like a couple options to it. I have a bunch of silver soldering coming up on the current build...

I've not updated this thread for a while I did get distracted with a couple of other projects and I was a bit put off from updating it because of the problems I was having with photobucket, but now that I've gone add free its making the process far easier.

I have done some work on it and I'm planning too have a intense period of activity on it.

So her's the update

The main driving axles are made fro 3/4" ground mild steel bar, the first job was rough cut them to length.

Face them all off so that they were all exactly the same length.

Using a collett centre drill.

Then between centres turn down the end for a nice close fit in the wheels

I then drill down the ends and cross drilled oiling way this way to oil the bearing all I have to do is squirt oil down the centre of the axle. sorry no pictures of this.

Next turn up and fit the driving pins for the wheels and loctite them in the wheels

Axle boxes Made from a chunk of cast iron

1st job square the chunk up to size

Cut each axle box off from the chunk

In the four jaw face off to length.

Then in the mill I found the centre of each box and put in a centre drill, and using a woble bar centred the box back up in the four jaw and drill out and reamed 3/4"

Then turned up 3/4" mandrell

Transferred the chuck over onto the spin indexer and milled the groove for a nice slide fit on the frame hornblocks this way every thing will be concentric keeping the axle boxes in line.

Radius off the groove this is so the axles will roll on the track curve and humps and bumps.

This is the axles and axle boxes assembled with the springs.

Then using a quartering jig assemble the wheels:- its important for the wheel coupling that each set of wheels are quartered exactly the same

I post a picture of the wheels in the frame at a later dat.

I'm currently building the pony truck this is being fabricated from laser cut parts.

I'm a little late to acknowledge your reply, but thanks for your interest any way

Time for another update:-

Things gave moved on a pass. the frame is assembled and the wheels are in and the pony truck is completed and in the frame, I'm taking her to the track next week to push her round the bends to check that the pony truck works.

And a few in-process shot of the pony truck made from laser cut parts silver soldered together.

hi Stew, hope you're well. I was quite surprised when I found this thread! Sort of your 3rd loco build! What ever happened to Mabel? 3 1/2" gauge engines are hard work when you see everyone else zooming around with a heavy load lap after lap. Did you find it was low on power? This one certainly won't be, great start - it is goingTo be something else this. Locos are great because you can't turn out this beast on relatively small equipment, something capable of pulling such a large load and having such a lot of fun. Keep up the good work Stew.