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There are a lot of different lines that are strong/light enough for the task. In fact, you'll probably get as many different recommendations as there are people on this forum. Personally, I use this 5/32" Spyderline. I only really ordered what I needed, so I don't have extra, but an order from APS would probably get to you as quickly as from anyone else.

By the way, in setting your posts, I would suggest a minimum distance of 16' to 18'. 18' being better. I suggest the 18', because if you get the DIY bug and decide to make your own hammock, you will probably want it longer. As Speer writes on his site: "Longer is more comfortable". And it doesn't have to be noticeably heavier either.

I might go a different way myself. The longer the hang, the tighter your suspension has to be to combat additional stretch and sag - keeping your butt off the ground. To me, that just adds aggravation and possibly additional stress to your suspension. When I'm hiking, I look for my "ideal" distance of about 14'-15'. I'd likely shoot for the same with a stand or posts at home. JMO.

"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

Interesting - I've used the ring buckles on line all the way from 1/8" diameter up to 1/4" diameter and found that for me the diameter of the line made no difference.

How careful I was in lining things up made a difference. Then when someone suggested the half hitch, I found that helped a lot also. But, for me, I found no difference at all in the line diameter.

Oh, I'm not saying that it makes a difference necessarily in the hang, just that I simply couldn't get the large spectra of the standard HH to hold the rings as snugly as spyderline(maybe I needed to tie it differently). I then cut the spectra to a short length and tied spyderline to that with a double sheet bend, with the spyderline extending to the rings. That suited me better. At least until I saw these pics (here and here) where the simplicity of simply doing away with the spectra all together was demonstrated. After seeing/doing that, I find it to be far superior to keeping the bulk of the standard spectra. JMO

I guess my point was, if you're not USING a longer hang distance, it's a disadvantage. And yes, I'm talking about low-stretch suspension and ridgeline.

Even with a low-stretch properly rated suspension, you get more stretch with a longer hang. This can be solved, as you mention, by hanging higher - but then you have tarp problems. I always look to minimize the height difference (at the ridgeline) between the unloaded and loaded hammock. This way, I can keep my tarp as close to my hammock as possible for winter use or bad weather. The longer the hang distance, the bigger the height difference is going to be, no matter what suspension you're using. Granted, for a super-strong super-low-stretch setup, it wouldn't change enough to be noticeable. But with the affordable, hiking-weighted materials I use, I can DEFINITELY tell a difference (and disadvantage) with even a 1' increase in hang distance.

"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

I only paid $2.00 for 15' of polypester webbing, $4.00 for two lengths - enough for both ends of the hammock. And no shipping, just state tax, $0.20, which is a lot less than shipping on that price. Polyester load straps - load rated and very, very, very low stretch. 15' weighs 3 oz. That matches Ed Speers polypro for weight and much cheaper.

$4.00 - I would call that affordable and hiking weighted.

I didn't mean that towards whatever you're using, I meant it in contrast to something that wouldn't stretch at all - like steel cable for instance What's Ewker always saying, "don't get your panties in a bunch?"

"Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

I've been reading the ring buckle thread... man thats a long one... and still not finished it yet! I like the idea. Not having my HH in front of me to look at, I am concerned about removing the cording and then reattaching the webbing...
...
OK, here's what I have...

HH Desert Rat (cuz it was on sale) with the extra large sil-nylon fly (the one that comes with it was much smaller). The standard straps and ropes that come with...
...

I've got a Desert Rat also. Concerning a later comment by the venerable very-cool-safari-clone-making TeeDee, I couldn't wrap the suspension cord around the rings. No way, no how. The rope is not pliable enough; the tightest loop I can make has a diameter of at least 2". Clearly not the same stuff that most people who've post on this topic have. So I used some Dyneema from BPL I have lying around for hanging bear bags. A single strand has a 1400 lb test strength. A touch pricey this rope. Helps to be a BPL member. Of course, if you can keep the existing rope and use that on the rings it is almost surely a better way to ease into this. I don't mind telling you I snapped the tie holding down the knot cover and undid that knot with some trepidation. Replacing the rope means that you need to have your bowline tieing skills down cold.

This weekend I'm going to use a longer bit of rope (maybe 5 ft doubled up rather than the 4 ft I used before). Last weekend I untied the knots, again, threaded the skins to sit between rings and hammock, and redid the knots. It is a mite crowded in that stretch of rope now. I'm some concerned about having space to attach underquilt and underliner cords to the new rope. I think I'd like to get those attached to the rope at a clear point between the skins and hammock (so the shock cords aren't up against the skins), which means pushing the scrunched up skins back towards the rings. I think I'll also pop a ring in there following VVCSCMTD's suggestion. Note to self: if the ring is a solid piece, then slip it onto the rope after the skins, and before tieing that blasted knot again.

this place is chock full of folks with good ideas. Now if I could just get those ideas all lined up at once, and not keep discovering what I should have done...