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Aaron Turner and Morgan McGlone were chefing at fine-dining restaurants in Nashville, Tennessee when they became addicted to the local fried chicken.

When they returned home, they partnered with Belle’s Diner owner Reno Pontonio to turn the space into the first Belle’s Hot Chicken outlet on Gertrude Street in Fitzroy.

Turner has since been replaced by new partner Miranda Campbell, but Belle’s is still going strong, with a second location in Richmond and one in Windsor. Sydney also has one.

As the name implies, this chicken is far spicier than the versions found in American states such as Kentucky. Once you’ve chosen your cut of chicken (dark meat, wing, tenders), there's a choice of spice (Mild to Really F**king Hot), followed by three sauces. Beware: F**king Hot is no overstatement.

The chicken packs an intense, dry crunch, differentiating it from the soggier versions around town. There are fish and mushroom alternatives, oysters, soothing soft serve and classic sides such as mac'n'cheese, but otherwise the menu is wonderfully succinct.

The other talking point at Belle’s is natural wines. Wine guru Peter Jo maintains a fluid list of excellent labels from around the country. It’s backed by a smaller selection of Southern-style cocktails and beers, including a house lager made in collaboration with Coopers.

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