Port Arthur

Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula in the south-east of Tasmania is one of Australia’s most significant heritage areas.

Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula in the south-east of Tasmania is a small town and former convict settlement. It is one of Australia’s most significant heritage areas. David took the journey 100 kilometres south-east of Hobart and its seductive beauty made difficult to imagine that it was once a place of the most brutal incarcerations.

The site for the penitentiary was chosen in 1830 by Lieutenant Governor George Arthur. It was a place of confinement for those already transported convicts and who had reoffended in the colony.

It was connected to the mainland by Eaglehawk Neck, a strip of land less than 100 metres wide, meaning escape would have been extremely difficult. Ferocious guard dogs and shark-infested waters were also serious deterrents.

Between 1830 and 1877, 12,500 convicts served hard, brutal prison time in what would have been hell on earth. Those who behaved enjoyed comparatively better conditions – some better than they had endured in England and Ireland.

Australia’s first railway travelled the 7 kilometres between Norfolk Bay and Long Bay with convicts pushing carriages along the tracks. A semaphore telegraph system allowed communication between Port Arthur, other outstations and Hobart. Farms provided fresh vegetables and a boys’ prison was built at Point Puer to reform and educate juvenile convicts and a church was erected.

Once forbidden territory, the hauntingly beautiful World Heritage listed Port Arthur Historic site is one of Tasmania’s most visited and accessible destinations. It is amazingly intact with over 30 buildings, ruins and restored period homes spread across 40 hectares of landscaped grounds.

As visitors arrive they are given a card corresponding to a particular convict. David was given the name of William Moore who was just 23 when he was transported for stealing silver spoons. As with all Port Arthur convicts, he was a repeat offender, his previous felony being the theft of twopence worth of tobacco. The charge was dismissed but he was sent to the penal colony anyway.

The life and times of your chosen felon can be traced through the Convict Gallery. William Moore worked in the blacksmith shop but again tobacco got him into trouble. Smoking was totally forbidden and when he was caught lighting up, his punishment was 36 lashes.

Beautiful gardens were created for the ladies of the settlement. Wives of the administration and military officers must have been delighted to have a peaceful place for respite in a life which would have been full of drudgery.

The Penitentiary is a large and imposing cell block constructed in 1843 as a flour mill and granary. In 1857 it was converted into a penitentiary to house 480 convicts in dormitory accommodation and separate apartments.

Solitary confinement was in a separate prison. Total silence was absolutely enforced, so much so that guards wore padding over their boots to deaden any possible sound.

Flanked by the Watchmen’s Quarters, the Penitentiary contained a mess room, library, Catholic chapel, workshops and ablutions complex. Along with all wooden buildings it was gutted by fire in 1897 and lay derelict until a concerted conservation program began in the 1960s.

It’s impossible to imagine the mental and physical torture endured by the convicts and David found that standing in a cell for just a couple of seconds was unbearable. He decided a stretch of 30 days would be grounds for insanity.

For a different vantage point of one of the country’s prettiest ports and to hear more of the tales of Port Arthur, visitors can join a 25 minute cruise which runs several times a day.

The MV Marana cruises past the Dockyard, Isle of the Dead Cemetery and Point Puer Boys’ Prison. A guide gives commentary and passengers enjoy a warm drink, a bite to eat or a local wine or beer.

Location

Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula in the south-east of Tasmania.

Cost

Port Arthur Historic Site grounds and gardens open from 9am until dusk. Historic houses and buildings open between 10am and 5pm. Some remain open later during summer months. Entry costs $37 for adults, $17 for children and $90 for a family. Passes include daytime entry for two consecutive days, visitor guide with a map, a 40 minute guided walking tour, a 25 minute harbour cruise, access to 30 historic buildings, ruins, gardens, Convict Water Supply Train, Dockyard and restored houses. The Visitor Centre has interactive experiences for all ages.