A tray to stick whatever frame you want on whatever gun you want. I've done 3 for Ions so far - Angel, Cocker, and Wrath (which may be the same as Cocker, I honestly don't remember). I tend to snag el-cheapo frames for whatever on ebay because people think Ion frames are worth more than you can buy the whole gun for most of the time. Little mill time, and it works just fine.

Well a tray would work, viking/excals use a tray anyway. If anyone can figure out a solid way to cram an AKA board in a tray that isnt huge (with the stock frame or even an AKA frame) id be willing to put some money down on one of these kits. The only reason i could see an aka frame being a problem is you would also need a way to mount a vert ASA for the reg. Any ideas or suggestions? Any other board options available that would work with some slight mods or is the excal board the best bet so far?

1/4"-28 for standard Cocker VASA threading with a tiny hole that leads to an internal port. Same size VASA is used on Wraths.

10-32 inside the tray to take an adjustable/swiveling elbow. 1/4-28 set screw with teflon tape or sealant goes into the top. Next time I'm just getting shorter bolts to attach it and won't need to blow through.

I have shots of it assembled, but I'm waiting to get it to the owner before posting the whole thing (same project as the GCPB version kit).

Will has verified that it will trip a MAC 33, so probably the best bet. An e-blade might work as well.

Got some more info from Will and he said the eblade board should work as well (depending on the dwell times used). He did mention the problem of the optical switch rather than a mechanical one. That may make anything but a frame retrofit a bit difficult.

so i got my kit in friday and went about installing it. the bolt kit went into the the gun with relative ease. tubing however... well... this is what my post is about.

After a few e-mails with Yoda, he said it would be OK to post a few pictures on how/where to route and place the tubing.

Starting with a few pics:

Left-side, pretty much stock looking with an upgraded HPR (it was the only one i had, seeing as the stock Ion reg has seized up and is unusable) and the only visible difference between stock and this kit is that hose in the back:

Just cracked open, best shot of how hoses CAN be routed (Sharpie to make that lime-green tube not so... well... lime) that lime-to-black tube is actually routed between the solenoid and the body with no kinks or binds:

Yoda mentioned that his kit relocates the small banjo fitting to the rear, however my parts bin allowed me to use an old barb from an autococker LPR, allowing me to only drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the body instead of carving a larger section out.

//Hindsight has caught up and told me that i could have kept the small banjo where it was and relocated the 90* barb included in the kit to the back, but i think i'll just stick with this for now. i think it looks cool.//

Body Cuts to route tubing neatly within the frame:

lastly, everything installed close-up:

Install time (not counting how long it took me to figure out how to route things) is about30-45 minutes, depending on what tools you have at hand. i used a drill and an x-acto knife (as can be clearly seen on the horrendously rough edges)

I've been revisiting the powertubeless variation lately, and may be focusing on making that one work as well as possible in the future opposed to focusing mostly on the variant with the powertube. The current version I am working with is a combination of the back end of the newest version with the powertube (as shown installed by <((0))>) and the one that came out looking a bit like an overgrown shrader valve. And a similar version that will fit into an XE/Vibe as well.

One problem I have run into with testing it - it traps enough residual pressure in the chamber that the bolt doesn't always retract completely, often with an eighth of an inch or so protruding into the breech. I think I have a good way around that which I will be working on hopefully tomorrow - a way that will still trap residual pressure to save it but will also allow a short period of air purge right before the bolt reaches the point where it has been hanging up.

If my gauge isn't off by too much, and it wasn't last I checked, this is by far the most efficient variation I have made. I really hope I can figure out a way to fix the bolt retraction without having to sacrifice that residual pressure - which will make the efficiency even better than the numbers are already indicating.

Dude, this makes me want to get an ion and just replace it with this kit! lol Seriously, have you thought about doing a patent, or copyright, in order to secure your ideas? This could be smart parts next stealer... I mean, they have stolen other designs before, and I happen to know they lurk these forums often! lol

Dude, this makes me want to get an ion and just replace it with this kit! lol Seriously, have you thought about doing a patent, or copyright, in order to secure your ideas? This could be smart parts next stealer... I mean, they have stolen other designs before, and I happen to know they lurk these forums often! lol

smart parts went out of business.... but then again, GOG bought all of thier assets...

I released the design open source, I'm not worried about people stealing it because it is out there for the world to see and use. Which also means that it (theoretically) prevents someone else from patenting the same system and subsequently trying to stop me from using it.

GOG did not buy their assets, the Gardners started GOG after the bankruptcy of SP.

For those who have done this with stock Ion's, the ANS Gear body kit will work with y0da900's kit, although when you mate the frame and the body together, you may have a leak form if you're still using the banjo fittings in the rear inlet (technically center inlet, with his kit) and its not too bad of an investment for $50 imo.
Pics
the frame has an absurd amount of excess alum in it, so some thinning out doesn't hurt... it also allows for a completely hidden kit: