Hi Doug, thanks for making it a sticky .... though the whole thread could be gone through and cleaned up quite a bit and knocked down to about 3 pages!!

Mustang_Geezer wrote:Can all the tubing be made out of regular exhaust pipe or do you need somthing of a thicker gauge, especially the "J" pipe?

AVOID at all costs thin walled pipe. The thicker, the better it can handle the weight, heat and stress. I have seen some pretty nice installations fail after about a year, because thin-walled pipe can't take the abuse. The scraps I welded together are actually from a Ford Explorer....and the wall thickness is abnormally thick, maybe about .080"?? Maybe it's just .065" but it is definitely thicker than plain exhaust pipe. Another nice thing is the scraps I used are all mandrel-bent pieces from the factory. I don't have a "crush" bent piece anywhere. Best thing is, it was all FREE!!

Mustang_Geezer wrote:Does it hurt to mig it all together vs tig welding? I have a mig welder and am good at it but dont have access to a tig nor have I ever tig welded somthing before.

MIG is just fine. I used the TIG on a lot of the intercooler pipe because that was much thinner wall thickness, and it is a lot easier to fill gaps with TIG than MIG if the pipes don't meet up perfectly. All my exhaust pieces were MIG'd, IIRC.

Mustang_Geezer wrote:Do you have to run a intercooler or can you start out without one.

An intercooler will allow you to run more boost, or lower octane fuel...depending. Any time you get the air going into the engine cooled down, you reduce the engine's tendency to detonate. If all you have is 91 octane fuel, an intercooler may help you run a few extra PSI of boost.

It also depends on the efficiency range of the turbo. If you are forcing a "too small" turbo to push more than it should be, then the air temps coming out of it will be VERY hot. An intercooler will help to prevent heat damage from all parts downstream.

Mustang_Geezer wrote:I know that the optimum compression is around 8.5:1 but what happens if you boost a higher compression engine?

Actually, 8.5:1 isn't the best for ALL engines. It really has a lot to do with the shape of the combustion chamber, whether the head is iron or aluminum, altitude, fuel octane used, engine operating temp, etc.

Reducing timing will reduce detonation but will also kill power if it is the only method used to prevent detonation. SOME timing reduction is necessary no matter what, since a densely packed fuel air charge in the cylinder will burn faster no matter what (since the molecules are a lot closer together). But too much retard kills power.

Mustang_Geezer wrote:350 cfm carb Holley....right??

Depends on what you are comfortable with. My next carb is going to be a 2100 Motorcraft carb, because:1) Has annular venturis already2) has a solid float already3) you can pull the top off to change jets without dumping fuel everywhere4) The top is bolted down .... with a 5/16" stud! No bowl gaskets to leak fuel out of the bottom of the bowlCons are....single needle inlet looks to be about .080" or so...that could be a problem.

When being blow-through.....smaller carbs are a lot easier to tune than large ones. The better the pressure drop through the carb, the better the signal strength at the venturi. You want good, positive fuel flow through the venturi at all times. I think you can get too small, but even my 1.125" venturi 1-bbl carb would have been good for a high 12-second run with a good launch.

Mustang_Geezer wrote:To hook up all this to a very expensive dual exhaust system, can you just Y it back together from the down pipe?

Sure... many guys split the exhaust right after the turbo into a "Y". The build on my 32 valve 4.6 liter is going to have a "Y" immediately after the turbo outlet.

Mustang_Geezer wrote:Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders

HUH? The engine fires one of the front cylinders, then one of the back cylinders, etc. (1-5-3-6-2-4) The perfect place to put the turbo is right between cyls 3 and 4, and then use a divided turbine housing so cyls 1-2-3 feed one side and cyls 4-5-6 feed the other side. This makes a big difference in spool up time. If you look at straight six diesels, they almost always have this set-up.

Will and Kelly's log-type header is a compromise. In that case, it is just most convenient to put the turbo way up front, where there is space. If that pesky shock tower wasn't there, it would be best to put the turbo in the middle and split the flow.

Linc's is right!
If the shock tower wasn't there, our header would be a 3-into-2 setup like Linc's described.
A log header (like our's) is just an easy way to get the desired results with limited space.
Will

So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??Have not heard anything new in a while???

Linc's 200 wrote:

Mustang_Geezer wrote:Is it "better" to run a J pipe like you did or make a manifold like Will did or does it just depend on how much performance you want?

If a manifold is better any ideas on the design of one?

A "J" is fine for many applications.

The absolute best set-up anywhere is each exhaust port feeding it own tiny turbo. They do make them that small, but that is extremely expensive. The next best thing is a full tubular header with equal length tubes. Also expnsive.

Straight sixes have one thing most engines don't:
A pair .... of three cylinders

its just a six wrote:So, what's the latest on the new engine,1/4 mile runs etc??Have not heard anything new in a while???

Anything new, Linc?

(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)

James - '62 Ranchero (200cid), '71 LeSabre (464cid)

The ONLY safety device we need is a 6" sharpened steel spike bolted to the center of the steering wheel of EVERY vehicle. Emergency Rooms and Funeral Homes will be busy for a week or so, then I predict a dramatic drop in vehicle accidents.

jamyers wrote:Anything new, Linc?(and why do I get "no posts exist for this topic" whenever I click on the 7th page?)

Not sure about the errors on page 7....

Nothing new, and won't be. I have had waaaaaay too many irons in the fire at one time and have been slowly pulling them out, one at a time. One of those irons is anything drag racing related. I am going to be selling everything on ebay that has anything to do with turbos or carburetors or slicks or six bangers.... (blah blah blah) :-(

I have a lot of cool stuff, too.....FSPP cam (brand new), two brand new sets of forged pistons, some race prepped forged rods with ARP bolts, good blocks and heads, etc. etc. etc. It has all gotta go.

I did elect to go with a Front mount intercooler, because just playing with the car running and my hand over the compressor outlet, the air coming out was WAAY hotter than I expected it to be (when air is compressed it heats up) I didn't want to pump all that hot air straight into the carb.

When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!

ManikMaster wrote:When air is compressed it cools down for example making dry ice is a compression of co2 in gaseous form...not being a know it all...just physics...I really enjoy reading this thread by the way!!!

You have it backwards, compression heats, expansion cools. Think: diesel.

BergerFromage wrote:MAN you guys need to get a step by step on how to do this!!!

i never really was too interested in putting a turbo on the motor i have now i was going to wait till later but now i REALLY want to do it

every one that has done this needs to compile a list of EVERYTHING that is needed and the prices, then do a step by step with pictures so people like me that have NO idea what is involved or how much time and money it takes can do this

im with nathan, a step by step would be killer, or just a whole whack of pics so we can see the whole project!!!

I'm really new here. I think this is my first post. I wanted to say how awesome this thread is. I never even thought about ever adding a turbo before reading this, but now, when I get around to doing the engine, it's a possibility.

That page where Linc first gets massive boost is a trip to read.

My project:

1966 Mustang. My dad became the mechanic on it when my grandmother became the car's second owner in 1967. Dad had a one-man professional shop from 1972 to 2003 and before that worked at a Ford dealership as a mechanic.

I'm the third owner. 200 block has never been pulled. 100,056 original miles. Bone stock. Good strong, smooth runner. 1967 C4 transmission. Rebuilding front suspension and doing Shelby Drop this winter. Added Monte Carlo bar. Should be back on its tires in four weeks. Did a lot of rust repair and then extensive body repairs after an uninsured driver took me out almost four years ago. Repainted two years ago. Gets about 1,500 to 3,000 miles from April to October.

I have to admit nice fabrication skills! This is exactly what i want to do on my 1980 Stang, but i figured i'd first deal with the shortcomings of the stock head and intake...i need to look over more of this thread but you're on the same track as i want to go! how much will ya sell the settup for? J/k..

I must say I read this whole thread today, not the quickest task, and it brought tears to my eyes and ideas to my brain. I'm getting an 81 Fox with a I6, and t-roofs , and this thread has made me giddy as a school girl. All I have is a turbo from an 89 chrysler lancer and have no clue what it is, but the car is free and runs so my money can be invested in parts. I look forward to reading through this thread many many times... was totally worth reading all 7 pages . Oh and great work.

The HSC ("High Swirl Combustion") is an automobile engine from Ford Motor Company sold from 1984 until 1994. It was produced in Lima, Ohio, largely using tooling and designs adapted from the predecessor 200 CID straight 6.

The 2.3 L (2301 cc, 140 CID) version was introduced in 1984 for the Ford Tempo/Mercury Topaz. Bore is 3.68 in (93.5 mm) and stroke is 3.3 in (83.8 mm)[1]. This engine produced 90 hp (67 kW) and 125 ft·lbf (169 N·m) of torque[2].

64 200 ranchero wrote:how do you regulate the boost 20 psi of boost would require how much psi on the waste gate and bov would it all be at 20 psi or would they be regulated differently

Unless the waste gate had a 20 psi spring in it,(unlikely) then boost was controlled via an external boost controller (either manual, or electric) that applied pressure from the turbo to the top of the waste gate diaphragm, effectively increasing the force of the waste gate spring. How much additional pressure to achieve 20 P.S.I. is directly related to what spring was in the waste gate in the first place. The BOV has nothing to do w/ regulating boost, it's purpose is to vent boost to atmosphere when the throttle is closed.

Hey I know this is a really old post but do you mind giving me some updated information on how you turbocharged your inline 6. I'm trying to turbocharge my 66 mustang inline 6 and was just wondering if you could give me some tips and pictures if you still have the car on how you did it. How much did it cost, was it simple to do? Thanks