Topsham,
Devon and Alicudi,
Sicily October 20, 1998 Is summer really over? I guess so since
the clocks go back this weekend, officially signalling the end of BST
(British Summer Time) and the onset of days that shrink to pitiful brevity
(by December it is sometimes dark here by 4 pm). But in fact, we've
actually enjoyed some of the best weather of the year in recent days
and weeks: last night for example it was almost balmy for our regular
Monday tennis four while by contrast on some summer evenings earlier
in the year we struggled against lashing rain, near gale force winds
and shivering temperatures. The world's climate, they say, is being
turned on its head. So why don't we kid ourselves for a few days longer
at least by preparing this classic and delicious summer Italian favourite,
the scent of lemon like a breath of warm wind carried to us by Aeolus,
god of winds.

Spaghetti
al limone

This
dish reminds me of our time in Alicudi a few years ago, balmy evenings
enjoying simple foods from Elda's terrace, overlooking the church
below and across the sea to the pale outlines of the neighbouring
islands of Filicudi, Salina, and sometimes even Stromboli. The lemons
we'd use would be picked fresh from local trees. Here in Topsham,
we may not have that luxury -- seek instead to find organic unwaxed
lemons that have, well, quite simply a more lemony intensity -- but
the view across the wide stretches of the Exe estuary and Exminster
marshes to the Haldon Hills is no less stunning.

1 lb
spaghetti

3 tablespoons
extra virgin olive oil

1 clove
garlic, peeled but left whole

1 whole
dried peperoncino

1/2
bottle dry white Italian wine (preferably Sicilian)

3 unwaxed
lemons, juice and zest

Handful
of freshly and finely chopped flat leaf parsley

Salt
and freshly ground black pepper

Bring
a large pot of salted water to the boil.

Meanwhile,
in a wok, heat the olive oil over a moderate flame. Add the whole
garlic clove and the whole peperoncino, and sauté briefly for
five minutes of so, until the garlic just begins to take on colour
and the chili to release its oils. Remove and discard. Add the white
wine to the flavoured olive oil, and reduce by half over a brisk flame.
Reduce the heat, add the lemon juice and about half the lemon zest.
Keep the sauce at a bare simmer.

Cook
the spaghetti until al dente. Drain and toss in the wok, together
with the remaining lemon zest and finely chopped parsley; season with
salt and plenty of coarsely ground black pepper. Serve at once.

Wine
suggestion: A fresh, zesty white from Sicily, such as Rapitalà,
Settesoli or Corvo Bianco goes well with this dish. Alternatively,
serve with Frascati or Verdicchio, but always ensure that you choose
an example from the most recent vintage.