There are purists that agree with you, but at some point the wave is moving so fast that it's damn near impossible to catch the wave unless it's practically breaking on you, which is not something you want to mess with at this size.

Scary.
I had the biggest day of my life when the last big swell hit I think it was two weeks ago. I dropped in on some big fat ones--almost double overhead not quite--at PV Cove. So fun. I looked back & there's a ball of rolling thunder behind me. Wish I had pics.
I scored a few waterproof film cameras. I intend to shoot my friends riding.

Scary.
I had the biggest day of my life when the last big swell hit I think it was two weeks ago. I dropped in on some big fat ones--almost double overhead not quite--at PV Cove. So fun. I looked back & there's a ball of rolling thunder behind me. Wish I had pics.
I scored a few waterproof film cameras. I intend to shoot my friends riding.

Click to expand...

I pretty much grew up and learned how to surf there at the Cove. It was my first non-beach break wave. I have not surfed now in over 7 years due to a rotator cuff injury.
I really miss it. ..