After two years intermittent surfing have finally taken a big step forward. Yes, my pop up is dreadful, yes I have a permanent callous and cut on my knee from the one knee pop up. No, I cant duck dive. Yes, catching green waves are usually limited to waves in the sub 2 foot realm. BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.....Just as my frustration grows to a point where I feel it isn't worth keeping trying a little nudge is given to me and away I go again....Thanks for listening....

Barrelled???? Reckon that will be quite a bit further down the line.... (see what I did there?).

Heroin analogy works for me, wife doesn't seem to understand why that after a good surf I am not contented enough to forget about it for a while. Instead, a good surf feeds the desire more and am planning the next dip....but I guess you guys know all about that

Wished I hadn't waited until 39 to start.....better than 59 though....

martski wrote: BUT, yesterday I took a step forward by popping up on the top of the lip (instead of scooting down to the trough and then trying), and yes, I did stay on my feet and yes I did drop down what seemed an enormous wall of water and put in a bottom turn and literally flew along the line...(ok so the massive wave was prob 3 foot max and my ride was under 5 seconds)...but what a rush.......

The same thing happened to me on Monday. Paddled out back and caught an overhead wave where I stalled at the top for a second and then flew down the face. I could'nt help but let out an involuntary scream as I went down the front of the wave! Usually waves that are that high cause me to wipe out but I managed to hold on to this one, turn into the face and trim along until the wave ran out! Unfortunately that was my 'last wave' so I had to go in.....half an hour and 4 or 5 waves later

I've only really started catching green waves this year so catching a wave like that was really exciting and terrifying at the same time! I knew if I wiped out I'd be screwed but luckily I did'nt!