Joe, just to clafiry... (1) how much powder to water (gm/l) for the solution(2) should we dilute that solution with a full pot of 'room temp' water(3) how long should it sit before draining(4) When I took my picture the filter seemed clogged brown (grounds? doesn't make sense as we don't put grounds in the reservoir maybe that's what the blockages look like)

Since water varies so much from place to place, it doesn't seem like cleaning on a specific time period makes sense. Some might need it monthly, others not for 6 months or more. Is there some way to tell when the machine needs to be cleaned? A visual inspection of the screen in the hole, or a manual flow rate test?

John said he'll pour over TDS and other data to try and put a chart of sorts together. The difficulty lies with the various levels of minerals found in locations across the US. We've looked at data from my own neighborhood and found locations 4 miles away with low TDS, with my water being double.

What John has found data wise is 85% of the water supply in the US is hard water and a nightmare to all things that heat water or carry that water. We've learned almost every water heater's warranty is either voided or severely limited because of hard water's effects.

While John is working on that aspect I'm in talks with the ONLY manufacturer of a portable product that truly conditions water and removes the minerals that are a nightmare to brewers, espresso machines, kettles etc. Brita filters and similar do not remove the minerals that cause the problems, RO yes but not those.

I'm hoping I can with their assistance we can put in place a program geared exclusively for Behmor customers that includes discounts on the product at the front end and disounts on the filters/ conditioners for long terms because in reality the best means to control the issue is to control the type of water used. I know in my home, which has an inexpensive 3 stage RO system (under counter) I've used a brewer for 9 months and not had to do one thing with regards to cleaning the reservoir or valves.

REMINDER: Never leave the roaster unattended when in use !! And remember to use our Rosetta Stone tip PART V PARAGRAPH 3.. it works !!!

Actually we'd like you to try it because yours appears to be a worst case situation.

John put together written instructions, probably to make sure I'd not messed things up in the transfer of info..

Here they are:

Mix 50 g (4 T) of granular citric acid in 2 cups of warm water until dissolved. This is 10%. Note: Many people use 1 T/4 cups as a maintenance solution - we are doing restorative, hence much stronger, but with very short contact time.

Put 10% solution in brewer.With manual release, heat to 150 F.Release water until half is gone - about 30 seconds. (fully clogged units started flowing within about 15 seconds) Shut the valve and wait 30 seconds.Open the valve and allow to fully drain.Solution can be saved for many more uses.Fill reservoir with water. Again, heat to about 150 and let drain through. If everything is now working right, release time should be between 2:30 and 3:00 minutes for a full reservoir to rinse and check.

People may wish to run a 2nd rinse. I did not.

REMINDER: Never leave the roaster unattended when in use !! And remember to use our Rosetta Stone tip PART V PARAGRAPH 3.. it works !!!

Joe, thanks for the detailed instructions. Well, it didn't work in my case. Wasn't able to drain any water. I tried a couple times.

Regarding the final drain. Draining 250 milliliters in 150 seconds (2:30) would be a flow rate of only 1.7 milliliters per second. [EDIT: either I can't read, or Joe changed the post to clarify this part of John's instructions. Or both...]

The reason no dishwasher.. there is a gasket between the top portion (black/ handle) and the main body (stainless steel) that acts as a seal between the two to prevent leakage.. Dishwashers can effect (ruin) the seal

The factory recommends only soap and water, but will ask about Tabz tonight as I'm in communication with them every night.

I don't have a Brazen yet, but have been following this thread with regards to the scale build-up on the reservoir valve screen. Just a thought here, but would it be possible, while the citric acid solution is sitting in the reservoir, to take either a turkey baster or one of those large, plastic marinade injection syringes, place it in the reservoir hole and do a little push-pull pulsating? Something that might loosen larger chunks of scale or speed up the dissolving action. Using a syringe type device might even suck up most of the loosened scale. Like I said, I don't own one yet and do not know how large the reservoir hole is or even if this idea is possible, but I thought I would throw it out anyway. Take care!

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