I have a renault Espace 2.2 RT and it appears that it will only start when the engines totally cools down. For example, if I have driven the car for a little while and switch off the engine. I have to wait roughly 45 minutes to an hour before it would start again. Can you help?

Many thanks

MarieI have a renault Espace 2.2 RT and it appears that it will only start when the engines totally cools down. For example, if I have driven the car for a little while and switch off the engine. I have to wait roughly 45 minutes to an hour before it would start again. Can you help?

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Pumping the accelerator pedal is unlikely to make any difference to an electronic fuel injection system in the way it used to do in the carburettor days.

In the absence of clues there is no choice but to concentrate on the basics by ensuring routine maintenance is up to date and competently carried out and a thorough underbonnet visual inspection.

If when it cuts out it is like switching off the ignition the fault is likely to be electrical. If it is like running out of fuel it is worth checking the fuel tank breather/venting system, the tank for water and foreign bodies.
Check also the engine intake for possible obstructions and the exhaust system including the CAT for semi blocked monoliths/loose baffles/corroded interiors.

If everything checks ok it will be time to fit temporary tell-tale lights to monitor electrical supplies to the fuel pump/management/ignition system while driving.
If and when the engine cuts during driving it is necessary the diagnosis process continues immediately, without which the fault might never be isolated as it could be temperature related.

A code read might help or the use of a scanner displaying live data though a common obd2 scanner is unlikely to be much use as Renaults are difficult to read and dedicated obd1 software will give best results.
It is worth noting few electronic faults other than the crank/cam sensor will actually stop an engine. Checking the continuity of these sensors immediately the engine cuts might prove useful.

The code indicates a large fuel leak has been detected. A dealer-standard diagnostic scanner might provide more information.

I am not sure how the management system detects a leak. There might be a pressure sensor somewhere or the system might be monitoring the current drawn by the fuel pump. A sudden drop in the current would indicate the pump is working less - possibly due to a leak.
While it would be natural to expect to see an expanding pool of fuel under the car and bewilderment if there isn't, the effect of a failed fuel pressure regulator, a blocked fuel pump intake or a situation where the pump is drawing in as much air as fuel would also significantly reduce the amount of work the pump is doing and therefore the current.

I suggest looking inside the tank for water or foreign matter and check the integrity of the pump, the prefilter and it's fittings and any inlet pipework. Once this is done replace the filter and carry out a fuel pressure and delivery volume test. The fuel pump relay might have to be bypassed for this.

If water has been discovered check the integrity of the tank breather system. If there has been any body or paintwork in the vicinity of the fuel filler expect foreign matter...

Once the fuel flow and pressure has been assured and if the fault still exists it would be reasonable to suspect a faulty pressure sensor somewhere, faulty wiring or connections, a faulty ecu or a software glitch.
Once any repairs have been carried out it would be necessary to erase the fault and might even be necessary to restore ecu defaults.

DIESELS DO NOT START FOR ONLY 3 REASONS.. 1. not getting fuel. 2. Glow plugs not working.. 3 major engine damage
1. air in system.. like you ran out of fuel, Fuel filter clogged, lift pump not working, no fuel in tank, Bad fuel. .. 2. glow plugs..check the wire at the glow plug to see if it has power. If it does not check the relay and fuse. glow plugs usually do not all go bad at one time. 3. major engine damage.. you would normally notice this by the noise the engine makes or it would not turn over..

Diesel fuel tends to be sluggish to pump in cold weather and that is why some diesel cars and trucks have heaters in the fuel tank to overcome this problem. However I tend to think that the glo-plugs are not working as they should be. Have them tested . The fuel pressure fault may be the inability of the pump to pump enough fuel to do the job.

if the pump is not kicking in then it is one of 3 things either the fuel relay is faulty and these do not always show a code, an immobilizer fault again sometimes wont show a code but often will if the system is factory fitted. and finally fuel pump failure. I know that these cars have major issues with fuel tanks they rot very quickly and can cause a multitude of problems in the fuel system such as rust damaging the fuel pump etc.

A SCAN TOOL WILL TELL YOU WHAT CYLINDERS MISFIRING.THATS QUICK WAY TO CHECK.CHANGE FUEL FILTER AND CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS BY FILLING GAS TANK AND PUTTING A BOTTLE SEA FOAM IN TANK.MISFIRING LACK OF POWER AND STUMBLING ON ACCELERATION MOST TIME CLOGGED FUEL INJECTORS WILL CAUSE THOSE PROBLEMS.

Hi You need to get the ecu checked for fault codes if there are none it is possibly low fuel pressure you should allso check this have you changed the fuel filter or opened any fuel lines this could introduce airwhich will lower fuel pressure.Good luck Chris.