American lady living in Kuwait commenting on daily occurrances through her warped perspective. Her travels take us beyond the boundaries of normalcy.
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Tuesday, November 04, 2008

How to find an Apartment in Kuwait

Christopher all the way from Cambridge, Massachusetts ("Ma shooft Yousef" bil Arabi), sent me a little e-mail recommending that I “write a few lines” about how to find an apartment in Kuwait. Well Christopher, it like dis: I can’t ever just write a FEW lines about anything, so here goes the entire deal on how to find a home in Kuwait. By the by, this goes for finding a villa also (pretty much).

What you will need

A good attitude: Patience. Lots of it; However you can get it, get it. A “happy place”
Chocolate (or whatever your crutch is)
Kleenex (incase it gets to be too much for you and you need a good sob).
A car (taxi) Lots of relaxing/tranquil music (maybe Yanni or Kenny G). Gas.
Someone who speaks Arabic
Copies of Waseet or Alhadaf classified papers

The process

Remove all weapons and sharp objects from your vehicle and/or person. This will help avoid a prison sentence when dealing with realtors and building guards (called “hariss” here).

Ok, seriously, if you are an English-only speaker, you really do need someone to help you translate – either from the classified ads or by going around building-to-building and asking the guards if there are vacancies. Sometimes, you can find a mandoob (expeditor/gopher guy) where you work or you can ask them to refer you to someone who can translate for a small amount of money. If you can’t find someone at work, or don’t feel comfortable asking for personal favors, taxi offices can often help and they can play a dual role in driving you around to find a place if you are new.

Zero to 30 days in Kuwait

If someone is new to Kuwait, they probably won’t get their civil ID for the first 30 days, so the employer should provide accommodations during the first month.

30 days to 6 months in Kuwait

After the first 30 days in Kuwait, I strongly recommend getting into a short term or furnished place first, so you have the time to look for your ideal home. It isn’t a quick/easy process.

During this timeframe, you are still in culture shock, but you are beginning to get it. You have to look for a place to live, but you are still freaked out by the idea and don't really want to be locked into something permanent because it is all so new. AAA Housing and Frost Real Estate are the two most reputable companies in Kuwait. I see them as "halfway houses" for people who are new to Kuwait and transitioning into life here. They provide the comforts of home in familiar surroundings and se haba English.

AAA only does furnished accommodations; Frost will provide unfurnished with benefits (phone, satellite TV, maid and laundry services on request). Both AAA and Frost furnishings are to western standards (both have websites). Expect to pay more for both.

6 months plus in Kuwait

So you are ready to find your ideal place. You have a pretty good "lay of the land" since you've been here for 6 months. You know what the traffic is like. You have either seen or heard about the places that you want to live. You have several options: Realtors, classifieds, and “hoofing it” by driving around to places you might want to live and asking for vacancies.

Realtors

Don’t expect miracles: Bait and switch is common. Untruths are common. It will be frustrating to say the least. You will make an appointment to meet and they will be late or send someone else. Some realtors will smoke and have poor personal hygiene. They will never ever have photos of their properties.

Finding a realtor: Ask questions of people you work with, check online and in the Kuwait Pocket Guide. Classified papers like Waseet and Alhadaf will have listings of available apartments and realtors (in English when/if you can find them).

Realtors generally work in specific areas: Seaside/Salmiya, Salwa/Rumaithia, Fahaheel/Mangaf. Ask what areas they work out of.

Work the list: Compile lists of realtors and go through the list to touch base. Don’t expect them to follow up; they’re generally not that professional. Don’t expect them to respond to you through their websites as many don’t ever check their e-mail. Call.

Realtors who commonly deal with Westerners: Target, Saba Real Estate, Eastern Homes, York Real Estate, Century 21. (There are more, but these are the ones I deal with.)

Commission: Note that realtors take a half month rent commission from you as the renter and another half month rent from the building owner. This is standard.

Be Aware of Con Artist Realtors: I met with a building owner and discovered something quite scary: Harisses who work with realtors to dupe you into paying a commission that they don't deserve. What happens is that YOU go to see a building and the hariss tells you that the building is being managed by a third-party realtor and that even though YOU have gone to the building and found it yourself, you must pay the commission to the realtor handling the building rental/management. I have had 2 experiences with this lately. At one building, the hariss didn't speak English and a bee-bop man walked right past the hariss and told me that I had to pay a commission to him. Thankfully, I knew the building owner and dropped his name. Just heard a story about a management company that rented a complex with 4 buildings for 3 months. They turned around and rented out every apartment in the complex and got tenants to pay 6 months in advance plus a security deposit. Then, skipped the country. Here's the skinny: They may ask you to sign a rental agreement with the realtor and you might not know that you actually have to sign with the building owner. Since the hariss is the one working the deal, you wouldn't know it. The building owner told me that this is a very dangerous con because then you are out not only your deposit but you don't have a valid rental agreement. So, how do you find out what is real and what isn't? The hariss should immediately tell you who the building owner is: if the realtor commission is legitimate, then they will have no problem with you contacting the building owner's office. If they are hesitant, then you know something is hinky. I'll write more about this when I find out more.

Write to me (mailto:amerab@gmail.com) you would like to get my personal list of favorite realtors. I'm not going to post it as it is subject to change and I'm too damn lazy to update it all the time.

Hoofing it – going building-to-building

Driving around in an area where you might want to live is probably the best way to find a good deal in the exact area you want to live. This is where your interpreter/cabbie comes in handy. “Fee shuqqa fathi?” means “Is there an apartment available?” Kuwaitis generally drive around Kuwait looking for apartments because landlords often don’t advertise or use realtors (both cost money). Wear comfortable shoes because there will be lots of running in/out of places. Most apartments in villas won't have elevators.

Note: if you find a place you LOVE and it is completely occupied, make friends with the hariss and offer to give him some money (I recommend 30 to 50 kd) to get you in as soon as one becomes available. I take this money to be an investment. Get the guy's number and call him back every now and then to see if anyone has moved. Take him some cookies. (I have my eye on 3 properties for both myself and The Romanian right now.)

Dreams of grandeur

Please don’t expect to find what you are used to in the West in Kuwait’s local apartment market. Aint gonna happen. Many buildings don’t even use interior designers for placement of walls. Most places do not require occupants to re-paint or even clean the apartments once they have vacated. Many landlords won’t even sweep the floors before showing the apartments to potential tenants. Some apartments still have squat toilets (which you can ask the landlords to remove/replace; they are stinky. Purchasing your own sanitary equipment is not expensive either.) Landlords often won’t change water boilers, so that is an expense you may have – don’t freak out. They aren’t expensive compared to the West (around 70 kd). The building guard can generally get you another and have it installed.

Zoning - We Don't Need No Stinkin' Zoning!

If you live on a farm (in Western countries), you might hear roosters crowing in the morning. If you live in a high-rise residential complex in Kuwait you might hear roosters crowing in the morning. You might see a sheep tied to a lamp post in your neighborhood (means that it will be slaughtered by homeowners/landlord - take your children away from windows). Get used to it. "Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore."

Unfurnished apartments in Kuwait often do not have kitchen appliances or closets. If you have a lot of clothes and are a single occupant, consider getting a 2 bedroom so you can create your own walk-in closet (SHOOOOOES!). Many apartments here also have a “maids” room (which is more like a cell) that can be used for storage (I had shelves put in). (Large wardrobe closets can be found at the Friday Market for around 85 KD each. There are also lots of carpenters (inexpensive) if you have something special in mind (Carrie Bradshaw, eat your heart out!)

The good thing is that many places in the local market don’t ask you for a security deposit – although that trend is changing.

Things to look for/things to ask

Who are the neighbors? If a building is full of single guys, it will most likely be used as a party place only on the weekends. “F flats” as they are known is where many a married guy will bring his mistress on the weekend for a drink and more. If the apartment has 2 doors and the windows are covered by either aluminum foil or lining sticker rolls, for sure, it has been used for either a party or an F flat. Be cautious as you may have unwanted visitors at night if they don't know that the former occupant has moved. The best way to find out what is going on in a building is to go back and visit on a weekend night after 10:30 pm. Keep in mind that the audio systems used for parties here can be heard from passing planes (I jammed out on a BA flight leaving Kuwait one night, flying over a party in the desert playing 50 Cent…)

Something to consider: While you think it might be nice to be in a complex with 100% Westerners, know that the company housing the majority of Western employees in Kuwait (CSA) has a policy specifically against this. They house their employees in buildings with a percentage of westerners to a percentage of occupants of other countries (locals, etc.) for security purposes. Don't make yourself an easy target, even though I personally have never found this to be a big concern (it may be to others). (I've always lived in multi-national buildings/areas in the US.)

Where is the mosque? If the mosque minaret is next to the bedroom window, you might want to consider another place unless you like to be woken up at dawn and reminded to pray. Westerners usually aren’t accustomed to the call to prayer; No disrespect to anyone's religious beliefs.

Where is the pool? Little people can be mighty noisy and you are in a country where parents believe that it is ok for children to be up all night without a bedtime. Check out what the pool sounds like at night or on the weekends when the kids are there. (Thanks for bringing this to my attention, Anonymous 11/6)

Does the apartment have both central A/C and heat? Lots of apartments here won’t have heat in the winter and it gets coooooold. When they tell you that you don’t need it, consider getting out of the shower in the morning when the temperature is down around zero (not saying that it will actually get that cold in Kuwait – but it has).

Do the windows have double-paned glass? A big selling point for apartments in Kuwait is that they are “on the main road”. As Westerners, we might not like the fact that the place is 5 feet from a highway. People like to honk their horns in the morning – especially when they are picking up kids for school. Double-paned glass is also important when the temperature gets up to holy-shit-that’s-hot.

Are there temperature controls on the water? This is kind of a trick question because most realtors and building guards won’t know the answer. Consider this – it is holy-shit-that’s-hot degrees outside and you want a cold shower: if there is no temp control on the water, you gonna boil like a lobster at a Cape Cod outing and there is nothing you can do to get cold (turning off the water boiler and using the hot for cold in the summer sometimes resolves this issue).

Does the apartment have internet/DSL and satellite TV? If not, no big deal. There are lots of places who will install it for you, but that means additional running around and cost.

Who pays for electricity and water? Often, the landlord will pay or you can pay slightly extra per month (around 5 kd) and they will take care of it for you. If not, refer to "Utilities" section below.

Is parking provided? Believe it or not, I know of 3 new buildings with a maximum of seven spaces to each building. Don't assume that there will be underground parking. Don't assume that there will be any parking! If you are looking for an apartment during the day, go back there at night to see how people are parked. Drive by and see what the traffic conditions are. Also, it gets holy-shit-that’s-hot here and shaded parking is a factor.

Responsibilities of the building guard (hariss)

Takes out your trash. Kuwait buildings are not equipped with something as simple as a trash shoot. Trash is generally left in the stairwell and the hariss collects it at night.

Washes your car. If you drive a high-end car, you might want to consider buying and providing cleaning equipment to your hariss and asking him to wash it only with water. Sometimes they will just wipe it down with a rag and your paint job suffers tiny little scratches.

Payment to the hariss: For washing the car and taking out the trash, the standard payment is 5 kd per month (required or your trash will pile up). If he demands 10kd (1. too much and b. he shouldn't demand), then there is a problem, Houston; unless it is your decision to pay him extra. I’ve found that if you bring your hariss a covered plate once in a while, tip a little extra, or maybe even bring him some used/new clothing, he will do just about anything in the world for you.

Lease agreements
You will need a civil ID in your name for the lease and perhaps a copy of your passport. Make sure that they provide you a copy in English.

I freaked out when I came to Kuwait because I didn’t know if I was going to like the place that I selected after a few months. I was new and I couldn’t tell, so I was worried about breaking the lease and having to pay up (as it is in the US). Not so in Kuwait. You have a 1 year lease, but you can leave by giving your landlord 30 days written notice.

Furnishings

There are lots of furniture stores in Kuwait: Ikea, Midas, Safat Al-Ghanim, The One (the cheapest I've found is Banta in Dajeej). Kuwaitis like to change furniture all the time, so there is lots of competition. However, the prices are high compared to the US (dunno about the UK cause I’m ‘merican). Dhajeej area (between 6th Ring Road and the airport) has lots of small places that will build furniture for you. I brought one of these guys a photo of a Roche Bobois sofa and Crate & Barrel table and I had both of them made within 2 weeks at 1/3 of the price. After 5 years, both pieces have weathered very well. The cool thing is that I’m indecisive and so I had 3 sets of sofa covers made. These shops will also coordinate curtains to furniture. If you are into decorating, it can be a lot of fun.

There are also antiques places around Kuwait, but most of the treasures aren't Kuwaiti, they're Indian. Write to me for info on antiques places around Kuwait.

Decor

Now, this is something that you might not think about right away, but in the US, most landlords are very particular about what you can and can not do to decorate apartments. I lived in one building where they wouldn't even allow you to hang pictures on the wall. Kuwait is a free for all on interior decor. Don't like the flooring? Change it. Don't like the kitchen tiles? Change them. I'm leaving my apartment now after 11 years and I have changed just about everything. It was fun. Consider this: There is no minimum wage in Kuwait, so anything labor-intensive will be less. You can have things done cheaper than in the US.

Appliances

Xcite (Alghanim electronics) is the biggest and most reputable. Their service is pretty good and they pick up/deliver. You can purchase appliances through them on monthly installments and online (they'll deliver to your house and install.)

Considerations: If you are buying a refrigerator with an ice maker, check the water hook up in the apartment first. Most stoves ("cookers") are heated with propane gas. Tanks are switched out once they are used. The hariss or the neighborhood convenience store (called "dikan" or "baqala") will deliver for less than a dinar.

UtilitiesLandline phone: Ask your company's mandoob for his help. You can get a landline for 100 kd per year and all local calls are free. You will need your civil ID. You will not receive a bill or notification when payment is due. You should go to the ministry of communications in the area where you live (or have a mandoob go for you) annually to pay up.

Electrity and Water: Often provided by the landlord. If it isn't, again ask the mandoob for his assistance. You will need to go to the Ministry of Electricity & Water in your area with your civil ID and 100 KD deposit to have the electricity put on. 90% of the time, you will never receive an electricity bill. The average is 5KD per month on an apartment. You should have your mandoob (if possible) go to check with the ministry annually to see how much you owe and to pay up. (Personal note, I got busted after 11 years with an 800 KD bill. I giggle.)

MiscellaneousConvenience stores: Lots of neighborhoods have convenience stores that you can call and they will deliver just about anything (including propane for the stove)Addresses in Kuwait are almost non-existent. Until very recently, most streets weren't named/identified. Note your address on your lease. Mail will usually NOT be delivered to your residence. Consider a post office box (at your areas Ministry of Communications for 4 kd per year) or having mail delivered to your office.

Emergency Services: 112. They may/may not answer. Have a plan. Know where the closest ER is (this goes by area where you live also, so know what hospital services the area where you reside/what address is on the back of your Civil ID. Know who to call (your employer, a friend, etc.)

Security: If your apartment doesn't have a peep-hole in the front door, have one installed. Beggars often find out where a Westerner lives, and will knock on your door relentlessly. Inform your hariss. Security cams are available at some places in Hawalli and you can have them installed over your door. Consider an apartment starting on the 2nd floor and up because thieves can break in through windows while you are out. If you are away for a long time, put your valuables in a bank safe deposit box. Break ins are becomming more common in Kuwait.

DG List of Realtors
(Almost all realtors ask for 50% of the first month's rent.)

I just wanted to add one thing. Check out how close you are to a pool or common area in your building. These areas can be rowdy when people get together to party. My place has walled terraces. On the other side of one is a pool and it can be very noisy at times. There have been nights where people kept me awake all night. Another annoyance is that they throw their garbage over the wall and it lands on my terrace and in my planted gardens. I have spent many hours making my terraces into beautiful refuges and do not appreciate the behavior of the animals pretending to be human beings. I have been tempted to go bitch slap them and many times have complained to the haris and/or the people themselves. So be sure to check out the area around the place you considering to be your new home.

Hello! We just setup a new program here in Kuwait for Expats moving in. We offer Home search, orientation tours and settling in services. If you have any questions or inquiries please feel free to contact me a ken.corriveau@moveonerelo.com Hope we can help you in settling in!Ken

I got a nice note today from a realtor lady. Turns out, she was someone I dealt with at the last stages before finding my apartment - VERY nice/kind and easy to work with and I enjoyed talking to her on the phone. She sent me the info below that I hope will help anyone who is looking for a place.

Happy hunting! :)

Dear Desert Girl - i saw your web write up on "how to find an apartment in Kuwait" and it was very good, actually almost 100% accurate.

Apart from the few real estate agents you mentioned in your write up, i would like to mention that i am trying to change the face of this cut throat business. I come from a property back ground in England, spent my first year watching and learning how rental real estate business is conducted, and saw the bad practices you mentioned i.e. the building harass involving unscrupulous agents so that they can take the commission, this is very bad - but newcomers to Kuwait pay it because they do not know the right from wrong.

The real estate company i head up is called Saba Co. Real Estate Division - we do not charge 50% fees to the incoming tenant. We charge small set fees depending on the rental price i.e.

hi dgyou have put very good information for expats looking for apartment.i would like to comment on comment which christine put in your blog.she metioned her company doesnt charge half rent from tenant but next she wrote

properties between 200-600kwd = 150kwdif you take bottome price iher commission is more than half rent.if rent is 300kd then half rent is.150kw.here in kuwait everyone tries to trick other with different wording and dresses. if you go to buy anything i.e ricemost rice bags says hiba taweella but it is not true. if you buy a box veges i used to see outlook of box . when you come home and open vegies box then finds on top they put few good ones and on bottom rotten or tiny things.so my advice to newcomers or expats is deal with extra care in kuwait.dg please you should also put such type of note before recommending any in your blogs.

My personal opinion is that Christine is a person of integrity. I don't believe that she would "trick" anyone. Compared to the commissions taken by other realtors and the services that Christine offers, she is very reasonable. However, I do believe that all of us are responsible for doing our own homework. If you are not satisfied with the services offered by one realtor, choose another.

We have moved twice now, and everything you say about real estate agents is accurate! It might be worth adding to your blog about the law that makes it illegal for landlords to raise the rent within 5 years of the start of the tenancy, and even after 5 years an increase is limited to 15%. Problem is, to enforce your rights you have to take the landlord to court. I have no idea what your chances of justice are, but let's say even if you win, your relationship with the landlord is forever damaged, so don't expect a pleasant continued stay at the same rent - there can be sudden and recurring problems with water, electricity etc., and of course if you are one second late with your rent, you'll be evicted. There are ways and means.

We left our last place because of a greedy landlord wanting a 25% increase - bye bye buster! (and gratifyingly, the place is still empty!). We found a new place ourselves - it was a drive by, but nevertheless, the agent swooped in demanding his 50%. At least his personal hygiene was good :-)

I have just moved from Kuwait from Toronto Canada. I am in the process of looking for an apartment. Thankfully my employer is going to help. I wanted to know if there are any places to go for fun. I will be here for a while and already miss the nightlive in Toronto as well as my friends. Please help!

Hi, I love your blog, its been my guide to planning my move to Kuwait.I have a question though that no internet resource can answer so hoping you can help. In terms of areas, where would be the nearest if my future office is in shuwaikh? I like Salmiya but is there anything lively and decent closer?

Hey desert girl I have been following your blog for a while now and i found this section very informative. I personally am a realtor here in Kuwait who specializes in helping westerners in finding apartments, goods, and services here in Kuwait. I don't know how you amassed so much of this information without being in the know so to speak but this is a great reference. If anyone out there needs any help over here in Kuwait drop me a line here is my web site (http://www.kuwaitrentals.weebly.com) good luck to all of you here in sunny Kuwait !!!

thanks for the blog!! I'm making a move from KSA to Kuwait this fall, and your blog is the best source I've found so far.

One thing I find slightly weird is that they don't seem to have residential compounds in Kuwait. It looks like the choice over there is strictly limited to apartment buildings. We've been living in a small villa on a Western compound in Jeddah for a couple of years, which has been great (we were in furnished apartments before then, and the quality of life is not even comparable there!)

Is there any other choice over there??? All I've found so far are apartments with ugly furniture in large buildings on the side of highways!!!

Some landlord will cause issues like avoiding/delaying taking rent in a bid to evict you from the building. In such a case, there is a provision to pay the rent at the ministry of justice. I'm not sure how it works though...

Just wanted to add our company to the realtor list here in Kuwait. Western Housing Solutions offers apartments in Kuwait to westerners and American DOD contractors. We are American owned and operated and look forward to working with new clients. Thank you desert girl and hope all of you had a great liberty day. check out our site www.whs-kuwait.com

You've been a HUGE help as I prepare for my relocation to Kuwait from Ohio. I'd love some more information on your transit with Desert Dawg. I plan on bringing my dog & cat with me for the relocation. Did you find it difficult to locate an apartment that was pet friendly? From what I've seen, only a small fraction are willing to accept pets. Also, were you able to find veterinary care easily? Any of your additional wisdom would be greatly appreciated! Keep up the great work.

julesofthenyle - You are right. Many places won't rent to people with pets. That's where a good realtor comes into the picture. Call Zamina! She's great.

Do a google search for either "Pet Passage" or "International Veterinary Hospital" Kuwait. Both places will assist you in importing your pets and give you solid advice.

I take DesertDawg to International Veterinary Hospital (IVH). The vets are wonderful (from Italy) and have become good friends over the years. They also have boarding and excellent equipment. They are a little out-of-town; the drive is about 30-40 minutes south of the city. Royal Animal Hospital is closer, but also more expensive and smaller.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to write to me at amerab@gmail.com

I am 2 months into a 6 month lease in Mahboula. Now my company is needing me to move to another country. What if any are the legal ramifications for an expat who breaks there lease. Or is there a loophole that I should know.

Hi DG I have been in Kuwait since September and am in teachers housing. However, I want to find my own place and move out by mid may/June at the latest. When would you suggest I start looking? Thanks!!

Hi everyone, I will transfer to kuwait with 2 children, can I find 2 bedrooms in compound with small buildings and villas ,club house , green area and playing kids yardBecause I will transfer from doha and we have alot of new big compounds (3 floor small buildings and villas ,big club house , coverd giant swimming pool inside the club house, mosque, ......

About Me

American semi-Kuwaiti living, working, eating, boating, and observing in Kuwait. Born in America, but raised with Kuwaitis, I get culture shock on both continents. No one understands me, but my dog, and she still gives me strange looks once in a while.
I do not accept payment for advertising; I won't entertain the thought. If I think your product or service is worthy of discussion, I will post about it. If I help you, you can send me pink roses.
If you are interested in reading about the Bedoun cause in Kuwait, see my posts which are tagged "Bedoun Civil Rights Movement".

Life in the Desert

I danced in the desert,I swam by the shores, I spent warm nights under starlit blankets of silver,I made friends from far-away placesI ate and drank and savored it allI loved and was lovedWhat more could anyone ask for?