First of all, I would like to let you all know that all of your hard work has inspired me to start my conversion a year earlier than I initially planned.

My car is a 1972 Mini. I have owned it since 2005. The engine has smoked since I got it and I've been dreaming for years now about ways to get away from this nasty old oil puffing raga-motor.

For those of you who've had any experience with this car, you know that space is the main issue with it. The car was very well designed and wasted no space at all.

The Transmission:

Most folks think the stock trany isn't of much use. I mostly agree with this. It sits in the oil pan of the ICE. Basically, it is the oil pan. It also sits in kind of an awkward position. It's right in the middle. there is a few inches in front of it, and there is a few behind it but not really enough space to put any batteries or the controller.

I'm using it anyway:
The thing is, I am converting this car in two stages. I want to get rid of my other car so I am converting this car now. That way, I can drive it while I work on the car's more permanent AC system. That means that quick and dirty (AKA, fast and cheap) DC system for now.

Slap Chop:
A very nice gentleman I met at the EVVCON sold me a Curtis DC Controller with a contractor, heat sink and two fans already assembled. On top of that, he offered it to me at a very good price. Thanks Einar!

Coils and armatures:
I picked a D&D 6.7" motor (that's right, just one). It puts out a bit more torque @ 1600 RPM's than the stock ICE peak torque of 52 lb-ft @ 2700. The D&D would put out 80 ft-lbs @ 1600 RPM if I could give it another 83 amps.

Connecting Bits:
I am going to use a chain drive and nix the clutch. The output shaft of the motor and the input shaft of the gearbox were at a one-to-one ration so I am going to gear up the motor a bit. I want to have some usable torque at 65 MPH and I figure most people don't really use 1st gear. I'll aim for a about a 2-1 chain drive (calculations pending).

12V+:
I am currently working on the DC-DC Converter. I bought some 3.3V Vicor modules that I will wire the output in series for a max of around 20A @ 13.5VDC.

Hi Jaesin. Sounds like a good plan. I'll be watching this. Will you fabricate a new end plate for the gearbox or just modify the existing one? Last time I looked at the gearbox it seemed there might be enough room to fit in a chain drive if you used fairly small sprockets.

Just commenting to subscribe to the thread. As an aside, from my experience with bicycle chains, I would make sure that the drive chain could be serviced with a minimum of disassembling.

chain-drive will be fairly noisy... and you need to be sure you have a way to adjust tension as it wears. You may want to consider the rubber belt drives found on some of the big touring motorcycles; much quieter and no lube required.

chain-drive will be fairly noisy... and you need to be sure you have a way to adjust tension as it wears. You may want to consider the rubber belt drives found on some of the big touring motorcycles; much quieter and no lube required.

With belt drive you will still need way to adjust the belt tension, correct? The distance between the motor and gearbox would still have to be adjusted.

chain-drive will be fairly noisy... and you need to be sure you have a way to adjust tension as it wears. You may want to consider the rubber belt drives found on some of the big touring motorcycles; much quieter and no lube required.

I am expecting the whole system to be pretty noisy. This motor and controller is kinda noisy. It makes this crazy tone at low RPM's before the PWM frequency changes. The transmission will probably be noisy. Maybe I'm wierd but I sorta like the odd sounds. Maybe because I've got no radio.

I drive motorbikes and I also have a Chinese electric scooter that I upgraded to LiFePO4. That thing is too quiet. I sometimes think that could get me in some trouble.

Thanks for the suggestions about chain tensioning. I am planning to use a Susuki GSXR Motorcycle chain. I am thinking to build in some tie rod style or pivot bolt style adjustments into the motor mount.

I am still working out how to switch the input gear with a sprocket. If I can manage to fit a small enough diameter gear, I will keep the stock end plate. That would be really nice. We'll see how it goes.

Malcolm:
I've seen your car, It is amazing work. Your motor setup blows my mind every time I look at it and I do love the green.

Cooper S
started with a 1071cc large bore engine - there were 970cc and 1275cc variants - the last 1275cc S was made in 1971
It had hydrolastic suspension

The Cooper started with a 997cc and a pair of dinky disc brakes that were less effective than the drums
went to a 998cc with discs that were as good as the drums
The S came out with a pair of slightly larger discs
the 1275GT has a different block, crank, rods and bigger discs (need 12 inch wheels)

I think you have a mini 1000 with an extra tank! - is it hydrolastic?

If so remove the hydrolastic bits and fit the rubber suspension (preferably from a 1977 or later)

I don't think you will be able to sell it as a Cooper S

You seem to have a rod change gearbox - that came out in 1973 and has a completely different exhaust tunnel and much better driveshafts - much better my old 1430 used to bend the old rubber hardysplicers - I got used to changing them fast, the inboard CV joints are much better

Wow Duncan, Thanks for all the info.
Does that cover Aussie cars as well?

I read that they started installing roll up windows in Australia before they did on UK cars. Being that the environment is different, I imagine there are other inconsistencies as well.

I don't have hydrolastic suspension.

Whatever my car is, It's not a UK Cooper S so even if it was an Aussie Cooper S, It's still not worth what an original UK Cooper S is worth. By time I'm done with it, it will be very something completely different anyway. A custom Cooper E with adjustable suspension and all wheel disc brakes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duncan

Hi Guys
You seem to have a rod change gearbox - that came out in 1973 and has a completely different exhaust tunnel and much better driveshafts - much better my old 1430 used to bend the old rubber hardysplicers - I got used to changing them fast, the inboard CV joints are much better

Man.. 1430cc sounds like a monster, hahaha.

The gearbox is a spare. I have the rest of the engine if anyone is interested in it (998cc "99H791P"). I need to get rid of it.

I will probably go by the local Mini supply shop to pick up the suspension parts on Thursday. Is there anything I will need to match the gearbox to my '72? I guess I will have to check the gearbox in the car before I go. What should I look for to tell which gearbox is in the car.