Ciutat Vella (Catalan for Old city) is, as its name suggests, the oldest part of Barcelona. It includes buildings and attractions from all the city history and has the most important monuments (except the most famous modernist ones).

Understand

The district is divided in four quarters:

Barceloneta or Little Barcelona was built after King Felipe V ordered the construction of a new fortress (La Ciutadella, nowadays a park) in order to control and punish the city of Barcelona, that fought against him during the war of Spanish Succession. The fortress was planned very close to the city so that a tenth of it was demolished, and the people who lived in this part had no compensation and as a bigger punishment were obliged to demolish their own houses. The people from the demolished part of Barcelona had to move, so a new quarter was planned by the French military. Therefore, the streets are straight and with a square shape. There are still some houses from this period, easy to recognize because they are much lower than the others and have a simple neoclassical decoration. Historically a fisherman's quarter, Barceloneta was traditionally a poor quarter, with dark and narrow streets, but since the 1992 Olympics significant gentrification has taken place. Most noticeably along the seafront. There are now delis serving upscale foodstuffs and high rise office buildings going up.

La Ribera

Barri Gòtic

Raval

Get in

Since Ciutat Vella is also the city center, nearly all public transportation leads you there. The transportation center is Plaça Catalunya, and is possible to arrive by train, subway (L1, L3, L6, L7) and bus (many regular ones during day, all the night lines and Aerobus to the Airport).

There are also two other places very close to Plaça Catalunya where the subway and the buses stop, Plaça Universitat, with L1 and L2 lines and Plaça Urquinaona, with L4 and L2 lines.

To reach the other parts of the district, the maximum time to get to the furthest part of the city is twenty minutes.

See

La Ribera

Palau de la Música Catalana, C/Sant Pere més Alt 13, ☎932 957 200, [1]. Modernist design by Lluís Domènech i Montaner is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a masterpiece of Catalan's modernist architecture. This auditorium designed by Ramon Muntaner is the most important Modernist example in Ciutat Vella. It was the headquarters of the Orfeó Català, the oldest Catalan choir. The most beautiful part is the stalls with its fine detailing, although all the building is impressive. There are plenty of allegories about music and Catalonia, since the Orfeó Català is strongly bounded with the Catalan Renaixença, the romantic movement that tried to recuperate the Catalan history, language and traditions. It is also the best place in Barcelona to listen to symphonic music.

Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, Plaça de Santa Maria (near the Picasso Museum). One of the most representative examples of Catalan Gothic architecture, it features a sombre but beautiful interior. The upsweeping verticality and lightness of the interior are especially surprising considering the blocky exterior surfaces. Built between 1329 and 1383, it was once was home to a Christian cult in the late 3rd century. The church is dedicated to Saint Mary of the Sea, since the quarter was dedicated to the jobs related to the sea, from sailors to harbor works, commerce, even coin exchange. The inside was burned during the civil war, but it is still very interesting. Next to the church, you can see a monument, called Fossar de les Moreres, which is the place where many fighters where buried after the Barcelona defeat in 1714, so it is an important monument for Catalan nationalism.

Carrer Montcada, (near Carrer Princesa, in the Born quarter). This street has the biggest collection of Gothic houses in Barcelona. In amongst these houses is the Picasso Museum, which is definitely worth a visit. There are also smaller museums along the street. Curb your hunger at one of the many tapas restaurants here that serve delicious, although a tad expensive, bite sized delights.

Passeig del Born. This avenue goes from the Santa Maria del Mar church to the Born market and is where the legendary jousting matches of the Middle Ages took place, as well as numerous fairs and marches. This is also where men were knighted. It is a really old street, very wide for the time.Don Quijote de la Mancha, the famous Cervantes character, had a contest in this place.

Mercat del Born. This market was the central market for Barcelona until the 1973 and its closing marked the beginning of the neighborhood's decline before its current resurgence. While undergoing renovations, whole streets and homes that have been demolished by Phillipe V's orders were discovered and archaeologists are now still studying the area.

Museums

Picasso Museum, Montcada, 15-23, ☎(93)256-3000 ([email protected], fax: (93)315-0102), [2]. 10AM-8PM, closes strictly on time, visitors invited to exit 10 minutes before closing time. Has a lot of art from his first period, before the cubism, but almost none of his most famous works. Pictures are signed only in Spanish, only overview texts for each period are available in English. Do not take laptops or valuables when heading to the museum, luggage over 30x30cm should be left at checkroom, but without any liability.Adults €9, discounted for students having student ID, free on the first Sunday each month.

Barri Gòtic

Guell Palace. While it is on renovation, with only basement and ground floor open for visitors, it is worth visit only if there is no queue to enter.

Plaça Sant Jaume. This square has been the political hub since the Roman era. It has been witness to some of the most important events in recent Catalan history, such as the proclamation of the Catalan State in 1931. At one end, there is the Palace of the Generalitat (the one with two flags on the top, the government of the Autonomous Community of Catalunya) and on the other stands the City Hall (three flags). Both are Gothic buildings, although their fronts are newer (the Generalitat's is the best example of Barcelona's Renaissance art). But if you can go inside, both are very important civil Gothic buildings. The two buildings have guides.

City hall: Visit hours are: Every Sunday, from 10 to 14. The entrance is free. The Saló de Cent, room where the artisans made the meetings is the most important part.

Palau de la Generalitat: The second and forth Sunday every month from 10 to 14. Free entrance. The Pati dels Tarongers, a Patio with orange trees and the main room are the most famous parts.

In the left part of the City Hall there's a tourist information point.

Plaça Reial, (next to La Rambla). This square is famous for the nightlife and the uniform architecture. It is considered one of the most beautiful squares in the world. It was build during the 19th century in the place of a monastery, after the Mendizábal law expelled the monks. A new square was built, making all the buildings look the same, with fountains and palm trees. After some years, Antoni Gaudí, the famous architect, designed the streetlights which are still there. It has lots of activity during the day, thanks to the many terraces of the restaurants. It is also a good place to go for a drink or a dance.

Placa Reial

Plaça del Rei, (next to the Cathedral). This square has two important buildings, the Santa Àgata church, where the kings from the Aragon crown had baptism. Is possible to visit it. The other building has the Saló del Tinell, one of the best civil Gothic architecture examples. Is the place where the royal receptions where held, so is very wide with a wooden ceiling hold by the typical Catalan Gothic arches. It has also a tower from which you can have a good view of the old town. An entrance is needed to visit both.

Cathedral of Santa Eulàlia (Barcelona Cathedral), Capellans, 4, ☎+93 3042255, [3]. The main Gothic church in Barcelona. The cloister is maybe the most interesting part.

Plaça Sant Felip Neri. One of the most romantic squares in Barelona, hides a dark history in that it was built over the city's old cemetery. Barcelona's most famous architect, Antonio Gaudi, was on his way to visit the church there when he was run over and killed in 1928. There is a baroque church (Sant Felip Neri), a 14th century palace and a fountain in the middle. To arrive, take the narrow street next to the cathedral cloister. The palace was moved from its original location in the street Via Laietana during the 20's. If you look the front of the church, you can see some holes made by a civil war bomb. If you go out the square through the other street, you'll arrive to the street Baixada de Santa Eulàlia, where is said that the Barcelona's protector was tormented.

Plaça Sant Felip Neri. Another place you can not miss, a very little and romantic square, with a famous hotel nearby, The Neri Hotel.

Plaça del Pi. This square next to La Rambla is one of the prettiest parts of the quarter. It has a pine tree in the middle (Pi mines pine tree), the church of Santa Maria del Pi, which is a very pretty Gothic church with a huge rose window. Many concerts are done here. The Pi square and its twin square, called Sant Josep Oriol, have several bars and artisans, painters, musicians are there to sell their products.

Carrer Petritxol. This narrow street, that starts in the Plaça del Pi has a very special atmosphere. It is famous because of its chocolate shops, where you can drink a hot chocolate since the 18th century. It has also very important art galleries (Sala Parés, the place where Picasso made a dedicated exposition for the first time). You can enter for free and see, if you are lucky, nice expositions. The street is decorated with flagstones that represent scenes of a modernist book called L'auca del senyor Esteve, by Santiago Rusiñol, which is a critic to the bourgeois society of that time and that he had to live.

Synagogue, C/Fruita 5. They open during the morning. It is the recently re-discovered synagogue from the Jewish quarter, called call. This building, not very spectacular, is important since it has been here since the roman era, and stayed as a synagogue until the Jewish exodus in the 15th century. The guide explains all the facts from the place in several languages.Free, you can leave donations.

Museums

The Museum of the City of Barcelona. Includes access to underground Roman ruins and a complex of historic buildings in the center of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), as well as being a reasonably good historical museum.

Museum de l'Eròtica de Barcelona, La Rambla (just in front of the market). Museum dedicated to erotic and sensual works. A huge tourist trap. The tour is not worth it, unless you wish to see old paintings of the Kama Sutra. The only interest is the huge phallus in the hallway, which makes for funny pictures.

Raval

La Rambla. Often the first landmark that people identify with the city. It is the central and the most famous boulevard which cuts through the heart of the city centre and is a vibrant and lively promenade filled with Barcelona action at its best and worst. It stretches from the harbor to La Plaça Catalunya running through the Ciutat Vella like a spine. Come here to see the street performers jump out at unsuspecting tourists, enjoy the flower and pet stalls, or just sit back and watch all of Barcelona walk by. During the day, La Rambla is packed with tourists, at night, the locals come out, as well as many prostitutes. There, you can find newspaper and book stands, birds, flowers, musicians, street-performing artists that all contribute to create a lively and unique atmosphere. If you happen to be here after Barca win, you are in for a treat. A few blocks south of its north end, you will find La Boqueria, a very large, covered open air market.

Drassanes, Av. de les Drassanes, 1 (from the Columbus sculpture to the right). The Gothic shipyard of the city. During the 14th century, the Aragó Crown was the most important power in the Mediterranean Sea, and this was the main place where the ships where built. Nowadays is the Museum of the sea, and it is worth a visit more for the architectonic structure. If you do not want to go inside the museum, you can see a little bit looking inside thorough the big windows at the part in front of the sea.

Hospital de la Santa Creu, C/Hospital 56 (going down La Rambla, turn right at the Miró painting). This Gothic building was the old city hospital, before the modernist Hospital de Sant Pau was build in l'Eixample. Now the hospital has the National Library inside, and is a great example of civilian Gothic archictecture.

Saint Paul of the Fields (Sant Pau del Camp), C/Sant Pau 101 (going down La Rambla, following C/Sant Pau, which starts at the ''Miró'' painting). A rare example of Romanesque archictecture, the prettiest in Barcelona. Its name reflects the fact that the church was once surrounded by green fields outside the city walls.Entrance to the cloister €2.

Sant Pau del Camp. A Romanesque church, one of only a few in Barcelona, with a fine cloister which feels almost Arabic in style. A little island of calm in a very busy city.

Maritime Museum, [6]. 10AM-7PM. This museum standing at the harbor depicts the Catalan maritime history of trade, wars and discoveries. Closed until 2012 due to renovations.Free on the first Sa each month from 3PM.

Barceloneta

L'Aquarium, (at the Port Vell leisure center, next to the IMAX cinema), [7]. The second biggest aquarium in Europe. Watch thousands of fish, penguins and sharks in this interactive sea-life museum. Unlike Genoese Aquarium it has a long glass tube, where you can walk watching sharks and other fish swimming around.€16.

Port Vell (Old Port)

Olympic Port. It has a large number of restaurants, bars and other establishments. In this wide offer you can find also the Barcelona Casino.

Zoo-Barcelona, (in Parc de la Ciudadella), [8]. Prior to his death, this zoo was famous for its albino gorilla Snowflake. Today this zoo still has many other features including a science museum inside the zoo.€16.

Parc de la Ciutadella, (at the end of Carrer Princesa). Barcelona's most central park, and includes a zoo, a lake and several museums. In fact, the park is so large, 74 acres, that the Catalan Parliament can be found in the center of the park. It is a great place to enjoy games, sports or to spend a leisurely afternoon. It was built at the final part of the 19th century in the place that formerly occupied the fortress (ciutadella) built after the defeat of 1714. This fortress was hated by the citizens, and when the middle age walls were demolished, so was most of the fortress. Some buildings where conserved, as such as the church, and the gunpowder magazine. The new park was used as the place to hold the 1888 international expo, and some of the older modernist buildings are there, such as the Zoology Museum, the greenhouse and, following the avenue Passeig de Sant Joan (towards the mountain), the Arc del Triomf, a modernist Arc de Triomphe.

The Harbour, (walk down La Rambla until the monument to Columbus, the sea is just after it). The harbor you can see is completely new, since until the 80's it was closed to the public. Some old buildings related to the harbor still exist, such as the Tinglado near the Barceloneta quarter that is now a history museum. There are two main parts in the harbor: the Moll de la Fusta, which are the decks that touch the city, and the Maremagnum, a newly created amusement center/shopping mall, with an Aquarium, an IMAX cinema, discos, bars, restaurants. The clubs are situated on the top floor, which is accessed through the general shopping area via stairs and the like. Even out of season and on work nights you are sure to have a good time, as the clubs are always filled. It is located at the other side of the wooden bridge next to the Columbus monument.

Museums

Catalonia's Museum of History (MHC, Museu d'Història de Catalunya), [9]. Close at 2:30PM. A must in order to understand the troubled and sad history of the Catalans.Free on the first Su each month.

Museum of Natural History, (in the Ciutadella Parc), [10]. 10AM-6:30PM. This museum is especially recommended for children. Most interesting is the rain forest project, in which you can observe a living forest from various angles, even from below.Free on the first Su each month (close at 2:30PM).

Do

The seafront at Barceloneta

Beach, (10-15 minutes from M Barceloneta, or a few minutes from M Vila Olimpica/Ciutadela). The beach stretches from the tip of Barceloneta in Port Vell and far away, passing Vila Olimpica and further. On warm summer days it will be crammed with people, and it might be a good idea to find a spot further away or go to a beach outside of Barcelona. There is nothing better than covering your toes with sand and lying upwards in the sun, and there is no better place to do this than on Barceloneta's famed beauty. Sit back, relax and enjoy.

La Rambla. A gorgeous tree-lined pedestrian walkway, the busiest and most lively street of the city. Mostly occupied by tourists, expect to pay higher prices for food and drink. Avoid the groups of people supposedly betting on a game played on a cardboard table, they are thieves. Head off into some of the side streets for a cheaper, more local, and authentic experience of Barcelona. Often called Las Ramblas, because it is actually a series of several different streets, the sections also have distinct feels. As you get closer to Placa Catalunya, you find more street performers doing stunts. In the middle, you will find street performers in costumes. Towards the pier, there are artists who will do pencil drawings, paintings, etc.

La Plaça Catalunya. Connecting all the major streets in the city, the Placa is known for its fountains and statues, and the central location to everything in the city. A favourite meeting spot for locals.

El Portal de l'Àngel. Large pedestrian walkway with many new and stylish shops to browse in.

Sit on a wooden bridge to Maremagnum and cool your toes at the waters edge: with a book, sandwich or just for a short rest.

Wander the Barri Gotic, the largely intact medieval center of the city.

Enjoy your Sangria at La Plaça Reial, near the La Rambla Street. Great place to sit,relax and drink.

While visiting La Placa Reial, check out a Flamenco show at Los Torantos for just 7 euro[51]. Tarantos is a small bar and theatre on the Placa Reial just off La Rambla. If you just want a half hour taste of Flamenco then check it out. Admission is €7 (2009 prices) for a a 30 minute show of flameno song and dance. Three performances nightly at 20.30, 21.30 and 22.30. There are plenty of other clubs on the Plaza Reial, but watch out for pickpockets in the early hours of the morning!

Walk in Born, a very popular area with great restaurants and places to have a few drinks. If your accommodation is on Rambla, Born is a great place to escape the crowds, enjoy a relaxed atmosphere and meet off-the-beaten track travellers and non-tourist-industry locals--especially in the evenings.

Jazz Si[52] in the Raval neighbourhood. Has a cheaper alternative to flamenco nights elsewhere.

Sit and sip on a coffee in Plaça dels Àngels, while admiring the whiteness of the MACBA [53] and the best street skate tricks in town.

Teatre del Liceu.

Palau de la Musica Catalana

Cook&Taste ([email protected]), Carrer del Paradís 3, ☎(+34) 93 302 13 20, [11]. Cooking class on traditional Spanish dishes. Get ingredients from La Boqueria; then together with a small group led by a professional chef, cook a few dishes: tortilla, paella and crema catalan; and enjoy the meal you prepared.~€60 per person.

Buy

La Central del Raval is a bookshop with a large selection of books on art, architecture and design. C/ Elisabets, 6 (between MACBA and La Ramblas). [54]

Maremagnum, [12]. Nice shopping mall by the sea at the end of The Ramblas. The only shopping mall in the city open on Sunday and public holidays. Clothes: mostly mass-market brands; no independent designers; only a few outlets of national chains

Art Montfalcon, Boters 4 (Final Portaferrisa), ☎93 301 13 25 ([email protected]), [14]. Probably the largest souvenir shop in the city at 1000 sq. m. Almost no ordinary souvenir-shop trivialities; really good choice of creative and artistic souvenirs: watches, plates, jewellery, mugs. Creative mechanical toys: spiders etc. The only missing thing is Kukuxumusu, but there is a choice of other souvenir t-shirt brands.

Wawas Barcelona, c/Carders, 14 (off Via Laietana, near Picasso Museum), ☎(+34) 93 319 79 92, [15]. M-Sa 11-2, 5-8:30. A truly new and innovative souvenir shop featuring its own line of postcards, magnets, mugs and trays, all of which being of artistic images of a Barcelona we see every day but hardly ever stop to look at. Also offers chocolate bars by Xocoa, one of the most renowned chocolatiers in Barcelona, wrapped in a photo of the city. Wawas sells guidebooks, and has a selection of products and gifts designed, made, and marketed by the best designers and creators in Barcelona. A must-see for visitors and locals alike.

El Corte Ingles. There are a couple of this nationwide department store chain in the district.

Plaça de Catalunya, 14, ☎933 063 800.

Avinguda Portal De L'Àngel, 19-21, ☎933 063 800.

There is a lovely shop in Carrer Bisbe selling crafts including miniature versions of the dracs (dragons) and gigants (giants) that feature in Catalan processions and fiestas.

El Ingenio, in Carrer Raurich, sells the real ones and is worth a visit just to look - you can also buy confetti, jokes, rubber snakes and other amusements.

There is a underground mall somewhere between Placa del Pi and Born area, with a good selection of child shops.

Food

La Boqueria Market, (going down La Rambla, is at your right hand). Tempt your tastebuds at this delightful food market where the food is plentiful, fresh and can be cooked to order in one of about five small restaurants. Also a place for fresh juices and some takeaway snacks. To avoid heavy crowds, or to buy the freshest perishables (e.g., seafood), go well before noon. At least in late Fall, Winter and early Spring months, La Boqueria is closed on Sundays.

Cansaladeria i Formatgeria Josep's, stands 176-179, ☎93 302 1880, [16]. Front-line stand featuring most of hams and meats a tourist needs. Accepts credit cards(!) and has vacuum packaging for any purchase so you don't worry through the rest of the day about smell of all the chorizos you bought.

Market at Place del Pi at night

The sign of the famous shop.

Happy Pills, C/. Els Arcs. A petite candy store located next to the Cathedral Square noted for resembling a pharmacy and packaging their product in plastic medication bottles or first aid kits.

La Gauche Divine, Passage de la Pau, 7bis. M-Sa 11AM-2PM, 4PM-9PM. An incredible multiconcept store near La Rambla. An example of the Catalan design is the decoration of the shop with an exclusive combination of furniture from the sixties and paintings and sculptures all around. The shop includes a little corner where you can have a drink while watching the latest trend publications and an inner patio with plants and sculptures. They have a lot of clothes and accessories for men and women, the most original pieces you can find in Barcelona. Don't miss the courreges mini dresses brought from Japan and the catwalks and special events they organize every month.

Wawas Barcelona, c/Carders, 14 (off Via Laietana, near Picasso Museum), ☎(+34) 93 319 79 92, [18]. M-Sa 11-2, 5-8:30. A truly new and innovative souvenir shop featuring its own line of postcards, magnets, mugs and trays all of which are of artistic images of a Barcelona we see every day but hardly ever stop to look at. Also offers chocolate bars by Xoxoa, one of the most renowned chocolatiers in Barcelona, wrapped in a photo of the city. Wawas sells guidebooks, and has a selection of products and gifts designed, made, and marketed by the best designers and creators in Barcelona. A must-see for visitors and locals alike.

La Boqueria[56]: Located on the Rambla, and offering a wide variety of fresh, mainly raw foods. Some stall sells many kinds of well cooked ready to eat pasta, fresh fruit already sliced. When buying anything here head to the cheaper stalls at the back - you can save a fair bit.

Cafe Viena. A sandwich bar on La Rambla. Truly some of the most delicious sandwiches anywhere. The bread is fresh and crispy, and you'll leave satisfied.

Can Conessa C/Paradís 2 (In a corner of the Plaça Sant Jaume). Cheap and very good sandwiches. Always with a lot of people. They have some tables inside. They close quite early at night (for the Spanish Standard!).

Delfin, on the Born: A good set lunch for €9, with typical Catalan specialties such as salmonetes (little fish eaten whole).

Fres Co, Maremagnum, store 59. A €10€ all you can eat buffet including hot dishes and cold and drink. The bread isn't the greatest, although the vegetable quality is quite good, and the warm food isn't terrible either. Warm food includes whatever soup they have on display, some meats, and pizzas. The Maremagnum buffet has fruit juices for 1€, while the one on Plaza Catalunya has numerous desserts, such as an ice cream machine and flan, in additional to all kinds of beers, wines, and sodas.

El Gallo Kiriko C/Avinyó 19. Cheap Pakistani food.

Govinda, 04,Plaza Vila de Madrid (Walk through the entrance to Citadines Hotel and go past the hotel into the area behind it), ☎+34 93 318 77 29, [22]. 20:30 - 23:45. is just 2 min from the Rambla. This restaurant serves only vegetarian food. The food is mostly of Indian cuisine and very delicious. Try the thali here.10-20€.

Pollo Rico. C/Sant Pau 31. A fantastic and cheap grilled chicken place buried in the side streets east of La Rambla.

Travel Bar (see details in Drink section) C/Boqueria 27 (near the L3 metro Liceu) [57] For the budget conscious, the bar offers meals for €1. They also serve a full English breakfast and 8oz Irish rump steaks all day long with ingredients imported from the UK.

Belgious[58] C/Avinyó 50. An amazing place in the Gothic Quarter that sells waffles (gofres in Castellano), crepes, fresh juices from Brazil and the most amazing 48 flavours of ice cream, all with natural ingredients and no preservatives. For example the Rosemary ice cream was incredible. They also sell crepes salados or lunch crepes, so not everything is sweet. The best waffles in Barcelona hands down!

La Bombeta, Carrer de la Maquinista with Carrer del Mar. Good tapas and more substantial dishes. A great alternative to the tourist traps along the waterfront. No English menus, but very friendly.

La Ría de Vigo, Carrer de Sevilla (in front of the beach). Go just for the paella and black rice, it's divine. 7% VAT is not included and bread is paid separately, but the quality of food is more than worth that extra charges.

Vegetalia, 54, Escudellers st., ☎+34 93 317 33 31, [23]. 10:00 - 00:00. Offers excellent organic vegetarian foods, as a compliment to the restaurant there's a store carries the full range of Vegetalia products as well as other well-sourced organic foods. The staff are friendly and the prices reasonable.5-10€.

Bar Ra, Plaça Gardunya 3-4, ☎933 014 163‎. Great value-for-money cuisine on the backstage of Bouqueria. The only drawback may be it doesn't have a good view. Menu del dia is salad or soup or pasta plus a main meal (fish or poultry or meat-based dish), and changes every day. Great cheesecake. Open for lunch for longer than most other restaurants in the city. For dinner, it may be difficult to find a table.Menu del dia: €11.

Bestial C/Ramón Trias Fargas 2-4. Fabulous lunch specials to be enjoyed on their great beach terrace on warm sunny days. Dinner tends to be quite expensive, thus lunch is the value for money option.

Cal Pep, Placa de les Olles, 8, ☎+34 93 310 79 61 ([email protected]), [25]. Mon: dinner time only; Tu-Sa lunch and dinner time (closed in Aug). Legendary fish restaurant. With limited seating, the only seats readily available are at the bar if you arrive without a reservation and queue for a while. No menu available, just ask what they have today.Dinner with wine: €30-40.

Drassanes cafe (Museu Marítim cafeteria/restaurant), Av. de les Drassanes s/n, ☎+34 (93) 317 52 56, [26]. M-Sa daytime, Th-Sa nighttime. Quiet location just next to La Rambla and Columbus monument. Menu del dia with simple but excellent food (Sant Cristòfol Gallery, at the end of the route through the museum). Even if you fail to catch the cafeteria open, a bar with a small open-air terrace (Garden of the King) is great place for having a break with coffee and a snack from a bar.

Los Caracoles[59], C/ Escudellers 14, 933 012 041, [email protected] 1PM-12AM M-Su. Los Caracoles which means "The Snails". You can spot the restaurant right away as it has a spit grill in the main entrance window roasting chickens and other meats. The restaurant was named after its specialty however they offer a wide variety of seafoods and roasted meat dishes.

Orgànic on C/ Junta Comerç, 11 at <M> Liceu (L3). A little more expensive, around €20 for the menú del día, but is worth it! Whether you're vegetarian/vegan or not, this kitchen is organic and the food is amazing and of high quality. Not a quick eat, but a nice sit down to good food meal. The service is friendly and down to earth and funny.

Traditional Spanish food

Can Culleretes C/Quintana 5 (From La Rambla, go to C/Ferran, and it's the first street at your left). Founded in 1786, it is the second oldest restaurant in Spain (after Casa Botín in Madrid). The prices are mid range and the quality is quite good for the price. They serve traditional Catalan food. But the most interesting from the restaurant is the decoration, an eclectic mix from all the times. A really good option if you don't have much time/money.

Els Quatre Gats (Four Cats), Carrer Montsio, 3 bis, ☎+34 93 302-41-40 ([email protected]), [31]. Frequented by tourists, Els Quatre Gats, is the successor to the famous cafe where Gaudi drank and Picasso exhibited, in a fine Modernisme building by Puig i Cadafalch. The cooking is of a high quality (if it's not onion soup). The wine list (and wine recommendations) can be quite pricey. The decor is quite old fashioned, while the attentive staff are dressed formally. Local visitors for dinner are either over 40s or families with children.Menu del dia (1PM-4PM Mon-Sat): €24 on Sat; main courses typically ~€17 and up (VAT not included).

Elx, [32]. daily 1PM-3AM, without breaks. Valencian paella and Meditterian dishes. One of the few places available for tourists where paella is genuine enough.

Meson David A great place serving excellent hearty Galician fare. Try the Lacon pork joint, its amazing. The decor is basic but the atmosphere is great. Expect queues at peak times. You'll eat and drink loads of sangria for €15. Carrer Carretes 63 in the Raval area. Near St Antoni Metro.

Les Quinze Nits, Plaça Reial 6 (Metro Liceu), ☎+34 93 317 30 75, [33]. Open 1-3.45PM, 8.30-11.30PM daily. A place to get cheap, huge and delicious paella. The Gazpacho served here is also one of the finest in the world. Some complaints about quality of steaks and paella, however. Overall, good value for money. There's no reservation, so arrive early; the queue starts at 8PM and frequently is quite long.A good selection of main dishes under €10.

Mediodia, Carrer del Carme, 40 (between MACBA and Bouqueria). Arguably a nearest competitor to Carmelitas which is just across the road. No-frills but trendy interior, full of light: light walls, large windows. Pleasant terrace in summer. Visitors mix: creative people working around, only locals.Menu del dia €9.5 (starter, main course, desert; water / glass of wine or soft drink / bottle of Morritz).

Born Cooking, Carrer Corretger, 9 (Born), ☎93 310 5999 (fax: 93 319 9905), [35]. M-F 12AM to 9:30PM, Tue closed, Sat and Su 11AM to 9:30PM. The local Born bakery with all sorts of North American offerings with chocolate chip cookies, pulled pork and cheesecake on the menu. They offer eat-in service, take-away and catering.

Egipte, 79 La Rambla (near Bouqueria). Recommended both for a la carte and tapas. Good fixed-price lunch and dinner menu.

La Locanda in C/Joaquim Pou 4, between Via Laietana and the Cathedral, is a good choice for Italian food lovers. Between Urquinaona and Sant Jaume metro stations.

Shunka in C/ Sagristans 5, next to the Cathedral, is one of the most appreciated Japanese restaurants in town. Prior reservation is strongly advised. Between Urquinaona and Sant Jaume metro stations.

Breakfast

Cafe de L'Opera, La Rambla 74, is a marvelous place to have a breakfast with fine strong coffee. As the owner insists on coffee and deserts, they are the core competence. The inside features 1920's decor.

Marmalade, C/Riera Alta 4-6 (From Metro Liceu: Go towards Placa Catalunya, turn left on C/del Carme. It is on your right hand side.), ☎(34) 932680922, [37]. Amazing brunch menu on the week-ends, from 10AM to 4PM - the best place in the area to find something else than fried eggs or croissant for a late breakfast! Away from the Rambla means less tourist for a quiet morning in a classy setting. brunch 7 to 12 euros.

Pasteleria Escriba, La Rambla 83, a cute little place with great pastries and good coffee. Try the chocolate croissant. Out of this world.

Splurge

Les Set Portes (The Seven Doors), Passeig Isabel II, 14 (near the harbor; in the buildings between Born and Barceloneta), ☎+34 93 319 30 33 ([email protected]), [38]. Mon-Sun 1PM-1AM. This is one of the oldest restaurants in Barcelona. Offers the best Catalan dishes around, at a good price. It's especially famous for its Paella Parellada (rich man's paella, so called because they take the shells off), which is really worth a try. The roast kid (goat) is also a great traditional Catalan dish.Above-average prices: $15 for the Paella; dinner with wine: €40-60.

Drink

Cafes

L'Antic Teatre, [61] Screens special artistic productions. There is also a small café inside and outside operated by the association which makes for a great break from the noisy Barcelona downtown. It's only a few steps away from the Palau de la Música Catalana.

La Clandestina, C/Baixada de Viladecols 2bis (Behind the Post Office in Via Laietana). You can take tea, different fruits juices, vegetal sandwiches and much more in a different place that holds some cultural events, lends some books.

Otman, C/Cirera 4 (between C/Flassaders and C/Montcada). In the Born, very close to the Picasso museum, this Moroccan designer has a clothes shop where you can have a tea in a`relaxing ambient atmosphere. Medium prices.

Bars

Amatxu an authentic tapas bar, popular with the natives and tourists alike. Their squid rings are particularly good and their staff are friendly. They are located on La Rambla. Though, others have given this place very bad ratings altogether.

Baja Beach Club, Pg. Marítim de la Barceloneta, 34. One of the most popular clubs to go dancing in, they play a wide variety of music to appease all music fans.

El Bosc de les Fades, off LaRambla. Dubbed the "Tree Bar" by many English speaking tourists. This wax-museum bar features expert-crafted ambiance to look like a forest.

Catwalk[62]. One of the most popular nightclubs in the city, with the peak time around 2AM. They offer 2 different floors with R&B and hip-hop styles mixed with House or Techno. A lot of teenagers go here.

La Concha, La Concha, located off Carrer Nou de la Rambla on Carrer de Guàrdia, is a bohemian hole in the wall hookah bar. It has a moroccan gay bar feel, but with a lively, mixed crowd of friendly 20 and 30 somethings drinking cocktails and smoking shisha. Definitely not "tourist-y", and in a neighborhood that requires attention late at night, but friendly and fun for the traveler looking for a little local adventure.

Danzantoria, Ramon Trias Fargas. House music fans come here for the pumping beats and funky decor. Offers two floors of dancing, and a terrace to chill out on between dances.

Dusk, carrer Merce 23. Sexy bar and bistro inside centuries-old stone walls in Ciutat Vella/Barri Gotic. One block in from the Correos (Big Post Office at the end of Via Laietana), "Dusk" offers an upbeat bar and a more relaxed lounge in the back. It's a perfect place to get a delicious bite to eat to start the night off, or to finish the night with funky music and a Bailey's Martini. Overall, a perfect place to get a taste of both the old Gothic Quarter and the new, hip, contemporary Barcelona.

La Fianna, Banys Vells, 15 (Born), ☎+34 93 315 1810 ([email protected]), [41]. 6PM to 1:30AM Su-W, 6PM to 2:30AM Th-Sa. One of the busiest bars in the neighborhood with a funky decor and a large selection of spirits. They also have a great dinner menu with an international selection.

Harlem, C/Comptessa de Sobradiel (Behind the City Hall, ask there). Live music every night. You must buy at least one drink, but the entrance is usually free.

Jazz sí C/Requesens 2 (Near Ronda St. Antoni). Live music every day by the teachers and pupils of the music school next to it. Pop/Rock, Flamenco, Jazz, Latin music etc depending on the day. To get in, it costs 3 euros but you get a drink on arrival.

Le Kashbar, Pl. Pau Vila. With a Moroccan decor, Le Kashbar is the perfect spot to chill out on cushions and take in the ambient music.

KULAS A cheaper alternative to Chupitos, they serve a selection of 1€ shots and high quality cocktails in a cool chilled out cocktail bar. Passeig de Colom 7.

London Bar, London Bar is basically a pub, but a pub that has been open since 1910 and used to be frequented by the likes of Dali, Picasso and Hemingway. The atmosphere is lively and friendly, it’s a great place to just pop into and the prices aren’t that bad, bottle beer 3 euros and a spirit + mixer at 6 euros. There is also absinthe for the foolhardy!

""Opium Mar""" [63]. Great club. Great music. SOUNDAY at Opium is the best. Dance floor, lounge area, and outside bar. Fondue available free of charge. Get off on L4 line on Marina Station.

L'Ovella Negra, or the "Black Sheep" is a large dark tavern-like bar. Located in Carrer Sitges just off La Rambla. You can get cheap and delicious sangria for 10 euros before 23:00 and 13 euros after. Fun to sit around with friends or to partake in a game of futbolina (foosball).

Cafè Milans[64]. Probably one of the most dynamic bars of the Gothic Area. Dj sessions, live exhibitions, art, and cocktails...

La Paloma, Tigre 27 (M. Sant Antoni), [42]. Thu, Sa 10PM-5AM; Fri 2:30AM-5AM. A very popular night club. Crowded in late nights, packed with young and beautiful people (La Paloma is currently closed. It's not known when the club will open its doors again)entrance €5-15.

RiBborn, C/Antic de Sant Joan 3, Tel.(+34) 93 310 71 48, [65]. A hip bar in the heart of the Casc Antic, a vibrant section of the Ciutat Vella with a variety of bars and restaurants. RiBborn offers "Funk you till you drop" hiphop jazz reggae and soul with dj Chocolito + guests, Tuesday-Sunday 10PM-3AM. Live music until 1AM on most Sundays and the odd weeknight.

Shoko, [66]. Designed by a Feng Shui expert, Shoko serves you good karma all night. Depending on the night, the dj usually spins House or Hip Hop tunes.

Sidecar Factory Club, Plaça Reial 7 / C/Heures 4, (+34) 93 302 15 86, (+34) 933 177 666, [67]. One of the best choices for drinks and music in Casc Antic. Offers live music (4 or 5 nights a week, 10PM-12:30AM). Hosts DJ sessions every night (M-Su 12.30AM-4.30/5.00AM) with DJs of many different styles and from the most important clubs making people dance until the wee hours. Always a good atmosphere.

Travel Bar, C/Boqueria 27 (Going down La Rambla, the street at the left from the Miró's painting on the floor), [43]. Travel's internet space is a good place to ask and talk with other people visiting the city. Has a quiet terrace. Very much a backpackers bar, this is a staple hang-out for many travellers. The Travel Bar has a barcrawl every evening (although it is poorly advertised in the bar - staff 'invite' people they would like to join, otherwise you have to ask), as well as a mean Catalan cooking course. This is a good place to hang out and meet other English speaking people. It does have some decent perks - notably, the one euro meals (again, you have to be in with the bar staff to get this) and the free Wi-Fi plus free internet computers (again, ask the barstaff - its rather haphazard if you'll get it offered to you, depending on whether you look like a part of the backpacker crowd).

Sleep

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There are a lot of hotels, hostals, and pensions in Ciutat Vella.

Avoid accommodation on/very close to Ramblas: it's not noisy only from 7AM to 8:30AM, seven days a week. Compared to Rambla, Born seems much more relaxed and off-the-beaten path district for accommodation.

Hostels

Increasingly, there are also many Youth Hostels that offer budget accommodation to those who don't mind bunking in a dormitory with other travelers.

Gothic Point Hostel, ☎+34 93 231 2045 ([email protected]), [44]. Located in the historic district very close to the Picasso Museum. Unique dorm design with wooden cubicules allowing more privacy. Free breakfast, 20 minutes daily of free internet access, free Wi-Fi. Free lockers (padlock not included, but on sale in reception for €3).Prices range from €14 in low season to around €20 in high season..

Itaca hostel [70] is centrally located in the Gothic District. The beds and bathrooms are clean, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Beds go for around €20 a night (depending on the season), breakfast is offered, and there is a kitchen that's open to guests, along with balcony access.

The stairs were full of construction-poles and even the sleeping-room had construction-poles and a hole in the ceiling, very bad customer service.

Residencia Australia[71] and Hostal Central[72] are located on different floors of Ronda Universitat No 11. Clean, friendly and good value, just off the Plaça de Catalunya. They belong to different owners. En-suite double rooms for around €60. Residencia Australia is more family orientated, they also offer ensuites with kitchenettes and small apartments starting at around €75 per night.

The Welcome INN, carrer Hospital, 93 Tel.(+34)664 127 664 is an alternative to the typical 'dorm bed' hostel. It offers private rooms (some ensuite doubles, triples, quads) in a large apartment with a modern design and common kitchen and living area. Prices at around €30 per person.

Hostel Kabul, Plaça Reial, 17, ☎+34(933)185-190 ([email protected], fax: +34(933)014-034), [45]. Has increased its prices considerably to capitalise on its location, popularity and positive guidebook write ups. However it remains friendly and is a magnet for young travellers who come for the party atmosphere. Bookings are available through its web site.dorm rooms €24.

Sea Point Hostel, (In front of Saint Sebastian beach), ☎+34 93 231 2045 ([email protected]), [46]. Hostel that has clean rooms and nice views from the terrace. The staff also plan activities for the evening for visitors.From €13 including breakfast, internet access and bottom linen..

Hostals and Pensions

Pension Alamar, C/ Comtessa de Sobradiel, 1 (Metro: Drassanes (L3); Jaume I (L4)), ☎""(+34) (""[email protected]"), [47]. Pensio Alamar is in the Gothic Quarter, in a pedestrian street near La Rambla. Facilities: kitchen, central heating, air conditioning, telephone, tv room, cradle available for babies up to 2 years, and close parking. Rates: Single rooms from 22€; Double rooms from 36€; Triple rooms from 55€.

Chic & Basic Tallers, Raval, C/Tallers 82 (Plaça Catalunya (L1, L3); Universitat (L1, L2)), [48]. checkin: Reception opens around 9:30AM (officially 9AM). Designer-everything self-service pension with entirely white interiors. Personnel can be seen even less often than other travelers. Designer features include: Lacus massage shower, 25" LCD TV and touch-operated lamps in rooms; SMEG designer fridge, trendy bar chairs and Nespresso in the common area. Rooms feature balconies but are not too spacy; WC, shower and a wash-bowl are almost in the room space (and if you close shower you open WC); white floors are not cleaned during your stay--maybe this is why the place is regarded as low-fi alternative to Casa Camper. Self-service breakfast available 24 hours a day in a common room with kitchen: youghurts, ham & cheese, toasts, coffee & tea, juices, fruits. Kitchen has a microwave, but not an oven. One common Internet station per floor (6 rooms); weak-signal slow-connection WiFi in some rooms (but not in the breakfast area. Plug for listening your iPod in the room--and some mix centrally available if you don't have iPod.Add 7% VAT to web site prices.

Hostal Levante, Baixada de Sant Miquel, 2 - Tel.(+34) 93 3179565, [75] has clean, simple and good private rooms. Renovated bathrooms. Very good location, one block from the Plaça Reial, two from the famous La Rambla. Very good price, but breakfast not included.

Pension Barcelona City Ramblas, [76]. In the central square of Barcelona with La Rambla. Clean rooms with shared bathroom.

Hostal Campi, [77]. Near Plaça Catalunya and the Rambla. It's a clean, cheap accommodation. Suitable for those on a budget. Offers single, double, triple and quad rooms, some with toilet and shower inside. The single room costs €30 and comes with common toilets and showers. Internet available for 50cent per half an hour.

Pension Arosa, [78]. Family-run Pension Arosa is in Avenida Portal de L'Angel, about 200 metres from Placa Catalunya. Three of its only seven rooms have got a sunny balcony towards the shopping street. Rooms are basic but clean and offer great value for money in the centre of Barcelona.

Hotels

Hotel Del Mar[79] Plaza Palacio 19, +34.93.330.7800 Located in Gothic Quarter, within walking distance of convenient public transport links and the beach.

Best Western Premier Hotel Regina Bergara 2-4. Right in the heart of Eixample, where the city's two most cosmopolitan avenues begin; Passeig de Gràcia and La Rambla. About €100 per night for a double room with bath and breakfast.

NH Constanza, C/ Deu i Mata, 69-99, +34.93.2811500 [80]. A recently built hotel, designed by the world-renown architect Rafael Moneo. Located at the Avenida Diagonal/Numancia axies, Barcelona's commercial and financial centre.

Grand Hotel Central, Via Laietana 30, +34 93 295 79 00 [83]. Close to the Born district, the Grand Hotel Central is in an elegant building dating back to 1926. The stylish bedrooms are generous in space and comfort and emphasise urban modernity through the use of cool, natural materials. Large windows provide rooms with magnificent views and a lot of natural light.

Hotel Diagonal Zero. Plaça de Llevant s/n, Tel, +34 935078000 / [86] / e-mail: [email protected] . In front the Barcelona International Convention Center (CCIB), next to the new Forum Marina and beaches, and 100 meters from shopping Center Diagonal Mar, surrounded by greenery residential and business district. Next to public transport to downtown, and to the airport and well connected by road. The Diagonal Zero Hotel also provides The 15th SB Club Lounge, located in the 15th floor, exclusive hospitality lounge for guests reserving Executive Rooms, Suites and Jacuzzi Suites, with dedicated services as concierge, internet corner, free drinks and snacks, national and international newspaper and magazines. Full equipped Gym and Fitness, SPA & Wellness Center with all kind of personal treatments, Panoramic Outdoor Pool and Solarium deck on the 17th floor overlooking the sea. The ECHO Healthy Restaurant & Food Boutique, a contemporary eatery based in the healthy and ethic concepts. From 100€ to 500€ per room/night.

ME Barcelona[87] ([email protected]) Modern, chic hotel located in a building measuring 120 metres in height, the ME Barcelona has a total of 34 floors, 29 above ground and another 5 below ground. The hotel has been designed by the French architect Dominique Perrault, famous worldwide for his avant-garde designs. Includes spa, restaurants and nightlife. Tel: (34) 93 3672050 - Fax: (34) 93 3672051

Stay safe

Watch out for purse snatchers along the seafront, and never leave anything valuable unattended while going for a swim. On busy days there will usually be patrolling police along the beach. Thieves tend to steal peoples bags on the beach (they even attempt to do so while you are there with your bag).

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