Disclaimer: This is not addressed to teamgp who seems to have a good amount of patience regarding the issue.

For those who don't understand the people who have issue with Xray shocks I suggest checking back over this thread and on teamxray.com to see just how often issues regarding the building of Xray shocks comes up.

Well, I'm building my T1 FK'05 at the moment. I've just finished the rear train (the rear train is the only thing that I've built).

I think I have a little issue. When I turned the spur gear, I sometimes heard a little "click" sound but the drive train still works free. I think that the "click" sound comes from one the two ball bearing of the spur gear. Is this normal ? Maybe is something wrong with the ball bearing ?

Well, I'm building my T1 FK'05 at the moment. I've just finished the rear train (the rear train is the only thing that I've built).

I think I have a little issue. When I turned the spur gear, I sometimes heard a little "click" sound but the drive train still works free. I think that the "click" sound comes from one the two ball bearing of the spur gear. Is this normal ? Maybe is something wrong with the ball bearing ?

Thanks.

Hi Blin

what brand of spur gear are you using

if your using the Xray one swap it around if they are anything like the Kimbrough ones

if Kimbrough put it in so the name Kimbrough is facing the right side of the car and file the spur size off the other side thats facing the front of the motor

I actually use a dremel with a sanding wheel and skim off a very small amount off the spur

Well, I'm building my T1 FK'05 at the moment. I've just finished the rear train (the rear train is the only thing that I've built).

I think I have a little issue. When I turned the spur gear, I sometimes heard a little "click" sound but the drive train still works free. I think that the "click" sound comes from one the two ball bearing of the spur gear. Is this normal ? Maybe is something wrong with the ball bearing ?

Thanks.

The click is from the two alu pins that hold the plastic pulleys on the layshaft... they are slightly loose inside the pulley. Put a little bit of grease on the ends and this will fix the problem.

right now i have 58mm on it the rear droop was set at 6 and the front 2

high Chris you should change your rear downstop to the standard which I think is 3 having it set to 6 your rear arms must look like this \ / in stead of this _ _

Downstops and droop are not the same measurement the downstops are there as a guide to get the droop you want

most people will recommend a droop value to begin with of 2mm front and 1mm rear im finding 3 front and 2 rear works for me

to measure droop at the rear and front do this everything in the car as if ready to race batteries, motor and what ever else

then push the back of the car down in rapid succession then with a ruler measure from the bottom where the rear screw in down to the table you sitting should be about 5mm then lift the car from the shock tower slowley until the rear wheels start to lift off the ground and measure that, thats your droop if you need more droop screw the downstop screws out and in for less thendo the same for the front

I'll check the two hinge pins first because I use the Xray original spur gear. Must I fix the problem (with grease) or can I leave the hinge pins make this little noise (I don't want to dissassemble if there is no need to do it).

I'll check the two hinge pins first because I use the Xray original spur gear. Must I fix the problem (with grease) or can I leave the hinge pins make this little noise (I don't want to dissassemble if there is no need to do it).

Thanks.

It is not imperative that you grease the ends ... it will not damage anything so it can't wait till your first strip down before you do it. It just drove me nuts the noise ... I like my car as quiet as possible

Well... the car is so easy to build that I think I'm gonna fix this little issue now... but I'm always afraid to strip screws... you know...

Today, I received my Serpent shocks. There are kickking ass... impatious to try them. But I received no manual to fill them. Do you have a link where somebody explains how to fill them proporly ?

Thanks.

To fill the serpent shocks just unscrew the bottom section... the entire part unscrews. Turn the alu part so you can fill it to about 1 cm from the top then just screw the bottom part back on and it will self bleed no air bubbles etc.
4mins and you be done

Well... the car is so easy to build that I think I'm gonna fix this little issue now... but I'm always afraid to strip screws... you know...

Today, I received my Serpent shocks. There are kickking ass... impatious to try them. But I received no manual to fill them. Do you have a link where somebody explains how to fill them proporly ?

Thanks.

Here is the procedure we follow to fill the shocks:
1) Fill the shock until the 2nd spire of the thread
2) Screw in 1.5 turn the piston housing with the piston pulled all the way up
3) Slowly push the piston until half way travel. You will see bubbles and excess oil coming out
4) Finish to screw in the housing
5) shocks is perfect when no air and half way rebound

don't you find the adjustables sometimes just randomly change part way through a race?

That shouldn't happen at all. In my early days with these shocks, I have made the mistake of pushing the two asdjustable piston pieces together without lining up the notch/grooves and stripped the notch. But I replaced the piston pieces with new ones and carefully assembled them.

I've never heard of this problem here or on the XRAY forum until now though. Do you still have the shocks? If so, PM me.

I have never seen or heard of this happening either. I have seen it happen when one of the adjustable pistons was as mentioned by teamgp, stripped. They are a little difficult to build but work extremely well.

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