Install this brand new 16 gallon fuel tank kit in your 1965-1968 Mustang today and rest easy knowing that the fuel you just purchased won’t be leaking out. This kit is a direct replacement for the damaged, rusted stock fuel tank with the correct 16 gallon capacity tank. This fuel tank is coated to prevent rust and corrosion from occurring offering years of use. This kit will save you time and money.

This fuel tank is a direct replacement for all 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 Mustangs, using the factory mounting holes. The tank is made using original dimensions, measuring 32-5/8" x 24 1/2" x 7", with the correct 16 gallon capacity. This tank has a drain plug for easy drainage.

This brand new fuel tank kit comes with a sending unit that is specific for the 16 gallon fuel tank allowing for accurate fuel level gauge operation. The fuel sending unit features a stainless steel construction with a 3/8" outlet tube and uses a brass float. A retaining ring, O-ring gasket and filter are included.

Connecting the original fuel filler pipe to the 16 Gallon Fuel Tank, is a durable, 4" long fuel tank filler hose that is made from flexible, hard rubber. Replacing this hose is always recommended when installing a new fuel tank.

*Filer pipe is sold separately.

The best part about this fuel tank kit is the fact that everything bolts up to the factory locations using original hardware. If you don't have original hardware to use, a fuel tank mounting hardware kit is included, which comes with all the necessary mounting hardware required to drop in the new fuel tank and secure it.

Finally, a new fuel filler pipe to body gasket is included to replace that worn out or missing original. The gasket is made out of cork and sits on the end of the filler pipe which meets the gas cap.

Tech Tip: if you install two gaskets on the filler pipe, it helps to move the gas cap away from the tail light panel which helps to keep the gas cap from scratching the paint when it is twisted during opening and closing.

Installation Instructions

Mustang Applications

Fuel Tank With Drain Plug Kit 1965-1968 is rated
4.6667 out of
5 by
15.

Rated 4 out of
5 by
67 FB Driver from
Great Value!I cant wait to get it in the car and hit the road. Best price i found for all thats included in the kit.

Date published: 2015-01-08

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Chism0613 from
Good bang for your buck!I bought this after finding a hole in my original fuel tank. I ordered this tank kit on sale and installed it without any problems. It took me less than an hour to have my car back up and running! I would highly recommend it!

Date published: 2015-01-11

Rated 5 out of
5 by
jc 53 from
it runsi was having trouble starting up. It was a very rusty tank.Got in 3 days. Went in a breeze no trouble.All parts fit excellent.I WILL BUY ALL MY PARTS FROM THIS COMPANY ALL DAY. You guys are GREAT thanks

Date published: 2015-04-04

Rated 4 out of
5 by
ksukemist from
Includes about everything!Bought this to replace my old cracked tank on a 65 coupe. Good fit. The galvan coating is not heavy so will be sure to give a shot of paint after a good cleaning on the underside of the tank.

Date published: 2015-01-11

Rated 5 out of
5 by
LDeLaRosa from
Loved the new tank fit perfectly!Bought a few weeks ago. Was quick and painless for my brother to install. He owes me money and did install to repay me little did I know it would be done so effortlessly

Date published: 2015-01-27

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Edwardo8711 from
Easy to installI bought this product because my Fuel tank was in very bad conditions. With this new fuel tank i guarantee that my new engine is going to get clean gas...

Date published: 2015-01-08

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Eddie0401 from
66 fuel tankOnce again CJ PonyParts has exactly what I need, never disappoints! It was so easy to install especially with the how to video.

Date published: 2015-01-08

Rated 5 out of
5 by
Puluke from
No sweatBought this a few weeks ago. Removal and replacement were a breeze. Perfect fit, fast delivery, good quality

does this tank fit a 1965 comet conv.

Most likely not - it's designed specifically to mount inside the Mustang's trunk. The Comet likely has a different fitment.

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-07-01

You keep saying the tank is made overseas, where at overseas? Is it China or not? I'm interested in buying it, but would like to know where it's made...

Asked by: Rett

We buy from multiple suppliers, so some might be in China and some might be elsewhere in the world. It's just hard to say where your specific tank would be made.

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-05-23

Is this the correct gas tank and sending unit for a 1965 comet convertable

Asked by: jimbo123

Most likely not, but we haven't tested that fitment, so we can't say for sure.

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-04-27

The fuel tank in this picture will not fit my 1965 comet as the filler is on the 34 inch side and the sending unit is opposite it ,the tank is turned a quarter turn from the mustang tank, do you have the correct one for the comet as I would like one

Asked by: jimbo123

We don't offer Comet parts, unfortunately, so we don't have the sending unit you're after.

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-04-27

Where are the gas tanks made part number XFT2

Asked by: Thunder 1

It's made overseas.

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-04-01

I have a 68 coupe. I would like the 20 gal. tank conversion kit. which one is it?

Asked by: ginger

There isn't a 20 gallon tank available. Your options are a 16 gallon, which is what this product is, and a 22 gallon replacement, which you'll find here: http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-conversion-kit-22-gallon-stainless-steel-1967-1968/p/FTK17/

Answered by: CJ Pony Parts

Date published: 2015-06-11

Where is this gas tank made ?

Asked by: chuck1234

This gas tank is a overseas direct fit replacement.

Answered by: CJPP Staff

Date published: 2015-02-05

After installing the tank I found there was a small leak around the fuel sending unit assembly. The gasket supplied was installed as described in the video, and the locking ring is all the way tight. What is the best approach to resolving this issue?

By Bill Tumas:
There's nothing worse than spending 60 bucks to fill up your tank, only to find gas dripping out from underneath your car. With the cost of fuel these days, there is no better time to replace that rusted, leaking tank. Today we're going to show you how to install a new tank using this '66 Mustang Convertible.

This is our standard fuel tank kit for the '65 through '68 Mustang. It includes the tank, sending unit with the correct brass float, mounting hardware, filler hose and the filler pipe gasket.

As you can see, the tank in our '66 has a nice big dent in it. It's due for replacement. The first step is going to be to drain the fuel. There is a couple ways you can do this. Drain it either from your sending unit, or if the tank has a drain, you'll want to use that. The best way to drain it? Take your car for a drive. If it's not drivable, either one of these ways will work.

The last step before removing the fuel tank from above is to disconnect the sending unit. You're going to pull the sending unit wire off the stud and then you'll want to disconnect the hose. We have the original stock crimp-clamps, which are one-time only and so you'll want to cut that off. Keep your pan handy as you may still have a little fuel come out of it. Now, we are ready to move inside the trunk. After you drain the tank, you'll want to clear your trunk out and remove the bolts that are holding the tank in place. Now, we're going to loosen the two screws the hold the filler pipe seal to the tank and to the filler pipe.

Now, we're going to disconnect our filler pipe. To remove the filler pipe you have to take the gas cap off. There are four bolts in the front here and there is on the back that we have to get off first. You'll want to pull the filler hose off the tank by twisting the whole assembly. Twist the hose off the pipe and pull out your filler. You'll be reusing the filler tube with your new tank. We include a new hose and also a new gasket so you can throw both of those away. Now, we are ready to remove the tank from the car itself.

Even though the hardware is removed there is still some seal holding it in place. We're going to start with a pry bar and see if we can get it loose. If you have trouble getting it off with a pry bar, a jack underneath the car forcing it up will usually do the trick as well. We are going to be installing new sealant with the new tank and so we want to get the surface as clean as possible and scrape off the old excess sealant. Once you've finished cleaning the original sealant off the trunk you will probably have a couple areas that are bare metal. We recommend a coat of primer before you install the new tank. Once you're finished with the primer, it usually only takes about 5-10 minutes to set up and then we can get in to installing our tank. I will put some strip caulk around the outside edge before we install the new tank. This will replicate the OEM caulking. Make sure not to leave any gaps in the corners; you want to seal all the way around. Before the tank goes back in the car, you want to test your sending unit; whether it's the original or a new one, you will still need to test it before you put it on the car.

You will use your multimeter set on ohms to test your sending unit. You want to ground it anywhere on the chassis, push the positive to the stud. You should see somewhere between 70 and 80 ohms, which is empty. As the flow goes up, that number is going to decrease, getting roughly to 8-10 by the time the tank would be full. As you can see, our sending unit is working properly.

Once you have tested your sending unit and you know it's good, we are ready to install it. The first step is to install this ring. There is a groove that it goes in to. I will put the float in at an angle first and make sure that the stud is at the bottom and put the ring on. I get about _ turn by hand. I will use a hammer to push it on the rest of the way. If you are ever working with a sending unit that has fuel involved, you'll want to use a brass punch. Since everything is new here a flathead screwdriver and hammer will work fine. Now, we're ready to install our tank.

The tank is going to go in the same way the old one came out. Line up the holes and grab our new hardware. Right now, we're going to put the fuel filler hose on. It goes over the tank. Slide it down and put the clamp on, but we're not going to tighten it down just yet. Put another one over here. Now we will install the fuel filler pipe. The new gasket comes with it, so make sure that you put it on before you put the pipe in. Once you install the filler pipe, your hose plants in place and we will tighten them back down. Now, we will reinstall our gas cap. Line the gasket up with the holes. The last step is to connect the sending unit. Make sure that you grab a new hose clamp to replace the one we took off. Now, our installation is finished. Once you're finished with the install you'll want to put some fresh fuel in the tank and check everything for leaks before you take it for a test drive. Installation should only take you for about an hour so you'll be back on the road in no time.