The quest for identity marks the individual desire to be tattooed, and is a connection to the ancestral and cultural past. So what are the wearers of tattoos saying? Why is there a need to express identity in such a painful and dramatic way?

Tattooing in Samoan society embraces the concept of mana, a concept not usually connected with tattooing in western societies. Persons and objects endowed with mana are seen as magical and worthy of the greatest reverence and respect.

When interviewing individuals who had been tattooed in Samoa, I was immediately made aware of the mana that was bestowed on these individuals through their tattooing experience. Tattooing was a personal journey, a cultural immersion and a strongly psychological experience, which changed their lives forever.

Missionaries, aware of the cultural significance of tattooing, attempted to eradicate it, along with ancient gods and customary practices, which they saw as pagan, lewd and debased. The revival of cultural pride and nationalism since Samoa became independent in 1962 has created a huge resurgence in the art of Samoan body tattooing, both in Samoa and amongst Samoans overseas. Over the last twenty years I have witnessed a large number of men and women being tattooed. Each time I ask them "why?" I am told: "it is part of my culture."

For Suluape, Setu, and Pepe, being tattooed made them feel more responsible, complete and authoritative. Yet perhaps of greater significance was the spiritual changes that occurs after they were tattooed, the bestowal of mana that changed their lives forever.

Pepe Rewitti-Sapolu grew up in New Zealand and came to teach in Samoa for three years in the early 1980s as a way of finding her roots and to learn about her Samoan family and culture. Pepe’s mother was Samoan and her father is a white New Zealander.

Pepe was impressed with the malu (female body tattoos) of some of the old women she saw in the food market. She asked her aunt about the tattoo and was told her that her grandmother and great grandmother had both had them. Pepe was tattooed by Petelo Suluape about ten years ago.

"After I had it done I was really proud. I felt really close to the women in my family. I felt angry with colonists who had tried to stop our people having the tattoo. I felt really stirred up as a person. It was a beautiful piece of artwork that was part of me. I wanted it as part of my culture and to show my children, to be proud of that part of their heritage."

Pepe also described the respect that is shown to her on important family occasions such as weddings when she reveals her tattoo.

Now in New Zealand on certain occasions I lift my dress up to show I have a malu and my family and I are proud. I am reluctant at times but it is also my privilege to do this. It is not a selfish action but a proud one.

Tattooing in Samoa was traditionally a rite of passage: a symbol of adult sexuality, strength, and warrior status, leading to adulthood chiefly status, a leadership role.

Petelo Suluape is one of Samoa's most reputable tattooists. Petelo was tattooed himself after admiring his younger brother’s new tattoo. His tattoo was also related to his chiefly rank:

"I would not feel comfortable to go into the village and give my speech without my tattoo. Once I had the tattoo I was more obliged to perform and to do what I should. [by this he means looking after the family as a chief and participating in important gatherings, ceremonies and the decision -making processes in the village]. I was more responsible. It forced me to learn more about my culture. You would be laughed at if you have a tattoo and you are a chief and you don't know the things to do"

If you visit a Pacific Arts Festival you will be impressed with the innovative, imaginative and wonderful display of tattoos on both men and women.

My own family has developed over the years a keen interest in traditional and not-so- traditional Samoan tattoo. In 1997 my eldest son Setu remained in Australia while we returned to live in Samoa. I designed for Setu a very contemporary looking tattoo, which we call his Manatua Aiga (remembering family) tattoo. It utilises symbols of the male and female tattoo.

Setu: "I have been with my family for over twenty years and very soon this chapter will close. I wanted my tattoo to be a band of respect and love for the past and the future. The three lines swooping down to the diamond symbolise my brothers and me. I am a Pisces so I have five fish swimming up my arm; they are in the centre of the pattern. Everything is done in fives as there are five members of my family. Five flying fox symbols form two lines down the sides of the main triangle they protect me. The triangle is a symbol of unity. I also have Vanya's pattern in my tattoo. She wears my armband pattern on her ankle. The band around the top of my tattoo contains five large bird’s footprints, one bird for each member of my family; these represent the journeys that we take in life. I feel closer to my family for having this done, and also closer to Samoa, which sometimes seems very distant."

Taule'alo V. Eternal Symbols: the Art of Samoan Body Tattooing, Master of Visual Art Research Paper, Sydney College of the Arts, The University of Sydney, Jan 1997

Based on extracts from Tattooing In Contemporary Samoan Society by Vanya Taule'alo, published in German in Tatowier Magazin, Germany, November 1999.