If you like tried-and-true favorites, then give these a shot

Feb. 26, 2008

Written by

Bill Daley

Chicago Tribune

Charting a wine exploration

What can you drink that is similar to six of the nation's most popular wine varietals? Here are recommendations from wine experts. Just remember, not all wines - especially those from Europe - are labeled by grape variety. Ask your merchant for help in finding these suggested substitutes.If you like: Cabernet sauvignonThen try:Petit verdot. What to expect: "Dark berry profile, light tannins, very approachable, great structure." - Brian Duncan, Bin 36Tannat. What to expect: "Full body, richness and tannic structure." -Tracy Kellner, Provenance Food & WineCabernet franc. What to expect: "All the flavor profile and finesse without overpowering the palate." -Tom Trilla, The Wine MerchantIf you like: MerlotThen try:Malbec. What to expect: "Rich and satisfying with velvety cassis fruit and moderate tannins." -Tracy Lewis Liang, Treasure Island FoodsAglianico. What to expect: "Red and dark fruits including Bing cherry, strawberry." -Amy Johnson, Wine Discount CenterCarmenere. What to expect: "Plum, anise and herbal notes." -Gints Brencis, DiCarlo Fine Wines & SpiritsIf you like: Pinot noirThen try:Refosco. What to expect: "Many of the same attributes of pinot, texture, color, tangy berry character." -Efrain Madrigal, Sam's Wines & SpiritsGamay. What to expect: "Try a cru Beaujolais ... Pretty cherry-scented red wines that are not at all tannic and are very food-friendly." -LiangTeroldego Rotaliano. What to expect: "Delicate tannins and a sexy mouth-feel." -Steven Alexander, SpiaggiaIf you like: ChardonnayThen try:Viognier. What to expect: "A full-bodied white though the flavors can be a little more ripe, tropical, floral." -Julie Joy, World MarketChenin blanc. What to expect: "Similar weight and texture, as well as apple and pear aromas and flavors." -JohnsonFiano di Avellino. What to expect: "Beautiful aromatics of pine nuts, pesto, white peach and bright minerals ... can pack the punch of chardonnay." -AlexanderIf you like: Sauvignon blancThen try:Torrontes. What to expect: "Zingy, bright flavors." -JoyMelon de Bourgogne. What to expect: "Muscadet's white grape offers some acid and fruit similar to sauvignon blanc." -Julio Burbano, Brasserie Ruhlmann SteakhouseAligote. What to expect: "Citrusy, zesty fruit profile." -BrencisIf you like: Pinot gris or pinot grigioThen try:Gruner veltliner. What to expect: "Both have strong stone fruit and smoke/flint notes." -MadrigalAlbarino. What to expect: "Slightly more full-bodied ... but similar fruit qualities." -KellnerMuller Thurgau. What to expect: "Comparable sugar and soft hints of acid." -Burbano

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Most people drink the wine they like, yes, but they also tend to stick with the wines they know. That's why such old familiars as cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc endure as top sales leaders.

Adam Seger, manager and sommelier at Nacional 27 restaurant and beverage manager of Osteria Via Stato, wants to change that. He's been training servers to help diners bridge the gap between the same-old-same-old sips and wines that may be unfamiliar.

Take carmenere, for example. Seger describes this grape, popular in Chile, as being like merlot but with a little more spice.

"People understand merlot and see (the carmenere) is going to be a little bit different," he said. "It's a great way to demystify some really great grapes."

How has the training worked?

"It has really, really helped," Seger said.

Making wine understandable - and enjoyable - is the goal for most everyone involved in the wine trade, be it as a store owner, a sommelier or a wine writer.

Brian Duncan, wine director of Bin 36 restaurant, tells staff to find out what customers like to drink first and then branch out.

"If you like a cabernet or Bordeaux-style blend, you might like a malbec or a petit verdot," he said.

But Duncan also cautions the staff not to get too excited about a wine.

"If someone said they like a merlot and you're showing them a gruner veltliner, you are way off the road," he said, chuckling.