Store

Gallery

Everything posted by Nucejoe

Heat " IS" the kenetic energy of constituant particles. If water molecules are moving, there is heat. If at rest , no heat.
What we call / preceive as the heat in content in the boiling water is the amount of kenetic energy of water molecules (sum of all molecules in it) as molecules vibrate about.
Temperature is the amplitute of vibration, the larger the amplitude the higher thermometer show the temp.
So as you mix the cold and hot, molecules vibrating at higher amplitude beat on the ones with low amplitude( cold ones) in doing so some kenetic energy ( heat) is transfered from high temp to low temp molecules. ( like when billiard balls collide), this will continue until no excess kenetic energy ( heat is there to be transfered) the estate which is reffered to as equilibrium.
Furthure you can understand that, there is no such thing as cold energy, cool is just a lack of heat or lower heat content.

You wouldn,t want the slightest deterent stress to movement of the gears throughout the train.
Using rubber washer on each screw or any trick you may think of to eliminate tension on the frame is as good as any other approach.

This is a case of pretension brought about by screws to the watch frame.
Think of Pretensions as forces tending to deform, exerted to a restraint structure.
It dosn,t mean you did anything wrong.
Release pretensions by loosening all screws, tighten one at time, at any point you see the effect appear loosen the screw back go to another screw repeat the same. This is more like a game of finding out which screws misbehave, the watch will run when the game eliminates the faulty ones, next you may shim the faulty ones to behave.
Good luck

Straigthening in place( the movement) is not recommendable, you risk bending the pivot backward facing structural fatigue, damgaing the jewel, slip and break..etc.
I remove the wheel, place the bent section of the pivot in between two hard flat srface and roll the pivot straight . No impact, no hammer nor heat, just press hard, slow, careful.
While at it check the pivots axial end play, end shake, excessive end shake can unneccessarily let the bent section inside the jewel hole, in which case you may could adjust the bent section out of the jewel hole.
Cool avatar there.
Good luck.

While at it , Check for worn out center hole, how about end and side shake on center wheels arbor? Runs real freely if center hole is worn out. A close up of center hole with canon pinion removed.
Now that yankee said it, subsecond arbor appears bent to me too. Good time to check for bent subsecond is before fork is installed, when you can run gears fast.
Any washer under dial is better than no washer.

I have four different sizes and a fifth which may be of the same diameter, but different features ( havn,t measured or compared the two largest) , there also differ by the type of indicators ( embossed & prints) and dial plate ( flat& domed) and different recressed subsecond.There are ladies size, boys or unisex size, Gents and two different jumbo sizes. Ladies size come in cases rounded beteewn legs, I mean between strap pin holders.
Anvil once suggested I post sample pix from my vintage collection and I did promissed to, which so far have failed to delivered.

I got four pointer sizes and a fifth which may be of the same diameter, but different features in my collection( havn,t measured) , there also differ by the type of indicators ( embossed & prints) and dial plate ( flat& domed) and recressed subsecond.There are ladies size, boys or unisex size, Gents and two different jumbo size. Ladies size come in cases rounded beteewn legs, I mean strap pin holders.
Anvil once suggested I post sample pix from my collection and I did promissed to, but so far I have failed to delivered.

Swatch branď laser seals some lines of thier product, Generally using odd calib mechanical movements in such lines, for which producing spare parts defeats the original idea.
If you can get your hands on two or more of such non runing watches, you got your own spare parts inventory and can repair. Providing you like this idea and decide to give a try, look into polymer cases as they are easier to cut through to get the mivements out.and best to house your reconditioned movement in SS cases.
Cheap Asian made swiss watches for life.

I don,t see your point, how dose any of the facts you mentioned help us be sure both staff pivots turn inisde the same type and appropriate jewels , the two systems incab and Novodiac may differ in number respects, different chatons, end stone.....etc.
Staff and jewel assembly should be of the same system. Plus a housing may not fit the other cock.
Your post shows the very evidence of two cocks/ ballance of same caliber with diferent absorber system.
Best wishes

I remove the dial to see the shock system on the mainplate, you get a chance to remove and clean those jewels too.
I don,t think anyone would disagree with the point mark made.
Will you show a close up of the HS&stud connection, seems like the HS is glued or pinned to the stud. Perhaps removing the HS from the stud provides for a better approach.

The jewel housing is friction fit. Stud career arm is a spring and snaps right on the housing, regulator arm and the other fellow( micro regulator) fits on like the other ballance cock in the pic.
You are going to remove the end stone and the jewel anyway.Next close the incab spring in the housing slot. Fit the housing on the cock, direction of spring don,t matter.
To fit the housing, insert in and place the cock and housing inside your tweezers to press home, housing should fit snug tight.place all arms on in the correct order( as on the other cock) place the stud career arm on the housing and in between your tweezers press to snap on, you hear the clock when snap.
If you can do this without removing the ballance and stud, you have saved yourself extra pain.
Removing the ballance brings you additional challanges, unneccessary pain.
Hairspring is generally intergrated with the ballanc on these modles, not removable.
Good luck

Time keeping improves at higher beats, ETA makes some 36000b/hr movements.Needless to say microadjustors on adjustment lever imrove adjustability, thence, improves timekeeping, A screw at lever with micrometer action is on some ETA versioms, A caliber like eta 2824 has several variations some beating at 28800 b/hr and others that beats 36000. Ones produced in Asia are of inferior guality to swiss. Another very important factor is parts avaiability, Swiss have by far better record than japs when it comes to spare parts, therefore, you should think twice about getting a japan made and if its Asian or swiss made.
Different brands use or make different grades of a caliber, that is the eta2834 in tudor is much superior to the same caliber you may find in cheaper brands.
Above all and thats my personal opinion, a detached manual wind beats them all, which answers your second question as well, A shield made some good ones.
A NOS movement would need fresh cleaning, yet is much much better than an old one.
Best wishes

Will you post a pic of the other side? You may find the other end of screw sticking out so you could grip it. You are going to strip down the movement anyway. Use of penetrating oil always helps unscrew the broken piece, sometimes by a needle or screwdriver, not to mention special removal tools.
Chemical disolution is the last resorts, you need to know the plates metal type or alloy to avoid it's distruction by alum.
Regards