Have an oil fired boiler for baseboard heat and it also has a tankless heater for domestic hot water. No heat being called for only getting hot water for use. Boiler goes to 210 degrees before it knocks off. It seem to push hot water through baseboard eventhough not calling for it. The controls are set to high limit 160 degrees

1 Suggested Answer

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!

Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.

Jan 14, 2003 - 10 posts
My hot water baseboard heating system is a closed system. ... Could I shut off the main water and leave the boiler and heat going for ... If one is not installed, install one and rely on that to save the boiler from the damage of running out of ... I do not wantto have city water push my antifreeze out of the system ...

Nov 21, 2010 - With hot water baseboard heating, is it better to keep the heat at 60+ degrees ... a hot water heating system where water is heated in a hot water boiler and then ... by setting the thermostat to lower the heat when you don't need it on. ... Not only do I turn my heat down when I leave for work in the am but also ...

Hot water is gravity fed through your pipes. When you turn the faucet on the water will flow through the pipes. If your hot water heater is natural gas driven relight the pilot. Same if oil fueled. If electrical, check fuse to see if it has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. If either has tripped, replace it and if it blows again the heater has a serious failure, you might need to buy a new one. If pilot won't light on gas unit, try relighting after 5 minutes, could be a bad thermocouple.

Symptoms sound like crossover might be part of problem:Crossover is when cold water enters hot water line due to faulty plumbing part like check valve, mixing valve, or bad faucet cartridge.http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

There should be a control called an aquastat that regulates the temperature of the boiler. The thermostat will turn on the circulator to start the flow of water through the radiators. If the water coming back from the radiators is very cold, a control will shut off the circulator until the boiler can come up to a predetermined temperature then start the flow of water again. If you have a tankless coil for domestic hot water, you now have a triple aquastat that maintains the temperature for domestic as well as the boiler temp. So yes the boiler thermostat (aquastat) does control the heat of the radiators and domestic hot water. No the pump is regulated by your house thermostat. You should take an amp draw on the boiler and componants to find out what is drawing more electricity than it should and popping your fuse.

As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.

Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.

Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.

Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..

Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.

You have a real good description of your thermostat-- I wonder why you suspect the thermostat to be causing your 'No Hot Water' problem?

First of all, I have to be sure I understand your real problem-- When you say you want to 'turn the Hot Water back on', (It is 'Not going') Do you mean you want a boiler (maybe in the basement?) -- or maybe a zone valve in a Hot Water, Baseboard heating system-- to be heating your house/ room/ apartment?

I would suppose, if you have the thermostat set higher than the room temperature, that it should be giving a 'call' to the boiler (or Baseboard Hot Water Heater..) to ignite a fire, and heat the waer, and then heat your room, or house.

So-- Could the problem be in the Device heating the Hot Water?

Please tell us more about your heating system-- what type of fuel, -- What happens when you lower the Thermostat, and then raise it-- What used to happen, and what does NOT now happen, etc.

Okay couple questions here because either you have hot water baseboards or you have electric baseboard heaters.
- if the system is a hydronic baseboard heater fed form main boiler, usually this means your space heat is controlled by a zone valve which the zone valve is controlled by your thermostat.
-if you find the zone is controlled by a zone valve than it is possible the zone valve is defective causing hot water to bleed past the zone valve even though your t-stat is telling it to close.
- first find out what excatly the baseboard is heated by either water or electricity
-next personal message me and I can walk you through it

not an engineer but maybe a heating compant,, it sounds like you have a relay that has gone bad, you have what we call a winter summer system your domestic water comes from a tank inside the boiler, you might want to think about splitting the system to save you some money in the long run, seperate the water heater from the boiler so you only heat up in the winter, right now you are heating the system that heats your house to get 30 or 40 gals of domestic hot water, it would cost you less by seperating them

thats because the rinnai does not have a set up for a circulating pump it would make the unit run all the time,, they are not designed to work that way,, you will have to just wait for the hot water to get to the faucet just like before,,don't let any one tell you there is a way once the water flows it turn on the tankless so it would never shut off, you could get on that goes on a timer on say the farthest fauset away from the unit and set the timer to come on like 2 min before you are ready to use the water in that bathroom in the morning or at night other then that there is nothing else you can do