Picasso Restaurant Review

: At this temple of gastronomy (and veritable Picasso museum), Julian Serrano and his solid team deliver a culinary extravaganza. Maître d' Ryland Worrell has worked with Serrano since the days of Masa's in San Francisco. Setting the stage in the dining room are prized original paintings and elegantly dressed tables pushed comfortably apart. Select tables offer views of Bellagio's fountains, topping off the exquisite, romantic setting. Since Picasso spent much of his life in the South of France and Spain, those are the influences Spanish-born Serrano follows. What's on the plate is straightforward, but presentations are dramatic, rich in vivid and contrasting colors, as well as delicious. Diners have a choice of menus: the three-course pre-theatre (available at 5:30 p.m. for $75), the five-course vegetarian ($128), the four-course prix-fixe ($115, wine pairing is an additional $58) or the five-course dégustation ($125, wine pairing is an additional $68). Surrender to such delicacies as poached oysters, osetra caviar and sauce vermouth; sautéed black bass complemented by cauliflower mousseline and a saffron sauce; and roasted pigeon and wild rice risotto. Pastry chef Matthew Fleisher ends the meal with desserts like Earl Grey cheesecake and a warm chocolate fondant, toffee and milk chocolate ice cream. Even though Las Vegas is crowded with top fine-dining restaurants, we have an affinity for Picasso. The main reason is that, in contrast to most of Vegas' other imports which are associated with a famous chef, here the culinary star himself does the cooking. Master sommelier Robert Smith juggles a wine collection of more than 1,900 bottles, ranging up to $35,000 for a 1983 Romanée Conti.