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I sent TK an email and he said it would be ok for me to produce up to 50. I would just need to mark them as my own so they are not confused with AGD product. If we were to make just the front half of the valve it would be most cost effective to use the stainless power tube tip from an x valve. making the reg half is probably a waste since several aftermarket companies made them from aluminum and they are cheap.

sounds like a cool project....If enough people are interested i will do a run this year.

Are the powertubes the same on the Classic? If not, I would say use the Classic powertube vs the X. If we are having to scavenge for powertubes, I would rather scavenge from a $50 Classic than a $200 X or Retro.. Having to use an X powertube would kill it for me.

the classic powertube tips are welded on. I sent tuna a PM on the X powertube tips. Might as well use them because they are already made. Sure we could make the regulator ends as well if enough people want them.

for the quantity were talking about these will cost about the same as a new x valve when its all said and done.

the classic powertube tips are welded on. I sent tuna a PM on the X powertube tips. Might as well use them because they are already made. Sure we could make the regulator ends as well if enough people want them.

for the quantity were talking about these will cost about the same as a new x valve when its all said and done.

I'm out. Deus was offering a cap for XValves at one point Think he made a couple, but not sure how many. I would rather find a cheap used X and cap it before spending $250 on just this. Sorry, I didnt realize it would be that much.

Like I said earlier in the thread.... id pay $50 for some weight than $200+ on the same classic valve.... you may get 1-2 sold here and there, but your gonna get put 6 feet under with 48 of these in your casket

The only thing I see with this. Wanting this for competitive play, if you make a classic valve out of aluminum. Everyone is going to have it ano to match, so how are judges/refs going to know its a classic valve not X valve. I am sure some if not.most are not even familiar with a mag so for them to tell the difference by looks is going to be a mess.

Like I said earlier in the thread.... id pay $50 for some weight than $200+ on the same classic valve.... you may get 1-2 sold here and there, but your gonna get put 6 feet under with 48 of these in your casket

Pipe dreams.......

Oh I wasn't directing that really at you. You have been saying a classic valve would cost as much to produce from the beginning. I would love to have my classic valve weigh less also. But not enough to pay much for the same thing I already own. Just lighter.

People in general think stuff can be made and sold for nothing. Then throw a fit when they find out the fabricator wants to make a little profit.

The only thing I see with this. Wanting this for competitive play, if you make a classic valve out of aluminum. Everyone is going to have it ano to match, so how are judges/refs going to know its a classic valve not X valve. I am sure some if not.most are not even familiar with a mag so for them to tell the difference by looks is going to be a mess.

Yeah I see it like this too, and that's IF it ever caught on (it just died this morning, lol)

Id really rather see the mods that used to make a classic rip, get people excited again... instead of of weight savings make up for it with the fact you can make it rip off 15-18-20 bps... someone needs to bring the electronic frame back, with basic boards available for.decent prices, frames to choose from, I don't see it being a problem bringing one back sub $200.

Not a ten year old one going for $300 on eBay because nobody lets them go... or there aren't many left?

Oh I wasn't directing that really at you. You have been saying a classic valve would cost as much to produce from the beginning. I would love to have my classic valve weigh less also. But not enough to pay much for the same thing I already own. Just lighter.

People in general think stuff can be made and sold for nothing. Then throw a fit when they find out the fabricator wants to make a little profit.

Yeah for sure, I was writing mine when you posted yours so I didn't even see it its all good

I think someone should get a weight of a loaded classic reg back (ready to drop in, seals, spring pack etc all in place) and the front half with no bolt. IMO, just based on feel, without the bolt the back still weighs more than the front. Yes, for the guy with the cap (not everybody can have one or run that setup because those are not available) this mod makes the valve weigh next to nothing... but the guy that wants this that has to use the old reg back and all other parts, this is still $100 or a little more for a couple ounces of weight savings... or, the valve comes complete, now its x valve priced... Id rather not use my mag for a tournament and buy the x valve.

We already spent $250 to get the classic valve a decade ago, why pay that same price for less product... at least Id get a rail body and grip frame back in the day

And I was thinking the 7000 series aluminum was more expensive than that black

They're on drugs. Hyperframes used to pop up pretty often for under $150. I would wager its the one that someone thinks is a Devilmag frame and is shooting for the moon.

Not to put up an arguement, but my point is... currently that particular frame is the only electro frame for sale for a mag without building one yourself. And I agree, it will be for sale forever at that price. And ive followed a few auctions that went over $225 for both a booyah and a hyper within the last 3 months

Not to put up an arguement, but my point is... currently that particular frame is the only electro frame for sale for a mag without building one yourself. And I agree, it will be for sale forever at that price. And ive followed a few auctions that went over $225 for both a booyah and a hyper within the last 3 months

There are also VER and E90 frames, but they are in the $400+ range. Anyone that paid $225+ for a Hyper or Booyah , especially a Booyah, frame is doing it wrong. Only way those should be selling for even close to that is if they are the 20bps version of the Hyper, loaded with Lukes extras or they are the Morlock'd versions. I've seen Booyahs seliing for $50 not all that long ago. And they have a reputation for being total crap.

There are also VER frames, but they are in the $400+ range. Anyone that paid $225+ for a Hyper or Booyah , especially a Booyah, frame is doing it wrong. Only way those should be selling for even close to that is if they are the 20bps version of the Hyper, loaded with Lukes extras or they are the Morlock'd versions. I've seen Booyahs seliing for $50 not all that long ago. And they have a reputation for being total crap.

I agree with booyah, but with the availability of boards for damn near nothing now days I figured if you got a frame thats at least set up for a mag and you knew the board sucked, you could just wire in a different board to the clapper right?

Is it worth it to only get a half a valve for $100? If it comes with a cap say? $120?? plus a good regulator, $65-$90, then you still need to buy parts to make the valve half work.

Its the same price either way you look at it.

While it may not be worth it for everyone, it would be for some and lets face it, this is a niche product. I have all the extras already to make this work for me. So yeah, its worth it. Just for the ability to be able to anodize it. Besides the powertube, bolt etc, all you would need is an on/off with the external reg. No other internals are needed.

While it may not be worth it for everyone, it would be for some and lets face it, this is a niche product. I have all the extras already to make this work for me. So yeah, its worth it. Just for the ability to be able to anodize it. Besides the powertube, bolt etc, all you would need is an on/off with the external reg. No other internals are needed.

Agreed, considering all the foregrips I like cost about $60 this is well worth it to me. And $120 would be awesome if it had the cap and it was already threaded. I feel you could sell $50 at that price. Add your work on the last two bodies you have done gives people trust in you. I would buy a level 10 plus a reg and be happy.

Agreed, considering all the foregrips I like cost about $60 this is well worth it to me. And $120 would be awesome if it had the cap and it was already threaded. I feel you could sell $50 at that price. Add your work on the last two bodies you have done gives people trust in you. I would buy a level 10 plus a reg and be happy.