Don't think you like daiquiris? Try one at Rum Club: The Cocktail Hour

View full sizeThe Rum Clubâs signature daiquiri, made with Bacardi 8, lime, Demerara syrup, maraschino liqueur and bitters, is a world away from those cloying frozen daiquiris at Mardi Gras.Randy L. Rasmussen/The Oregonian

Ernest Hemingway loved his daiquiris. The author acquired a taste for the classic rum-and-lime cocktail in Prohibition-era Havana, where El Floridita bar created one in his honor that featured grapefruit and maraschino liqueur.

But what would Papa think of the boozy slushies served during New Orleans' Mardi Gras, poured from industrial blenders at Bourbon Street's pizza-daiquiri shops and carrying names like 190 Antifreeze, Skinny Jester and Crawgator?

On a trip to New Orleans last month, my party did a taste test of these frosty creations. My sister tried a mediocre mudslide. A friend ordered a purple daiquiri named Voodoo that she found pleasant enough for a few sips, though she couldn't discern any flavors of nature. And my peach daiquiri resembled no stone fruit I've tasted.

Although a frozen daiquiri with real fruit -- not a noxious bottled mix -- does beat the heat in the summer, late winter is the perfect time to go back to the classic and simple twists, when limes and other citrus are at their best. Meyer lemons, white grapefruit and mandarins all bring a little something special to a daiquiri when balanced with lime.

View full sizeMichael Shea of Rum Club enjoys the challenge of selling daiquiris to customers who have grown wary of the cocktail. "I've got a pretty good success rate winning people over," he saysRandy L. Rasmussen/The Oregonian

If Hemingway were alive today, we'd send him to Portland's Rum Club on Southeast Sandy Boulevard, where owner Michael Shea is redeeming the daiquiri from its recent bad reputation. The bar's namesake Rum Club Daiquiri, created by his business partner Kevin Ludwig, has many fans for its smooth mix of Bacardi 8, lime, Demerara syrup and maraschino liqueur, with hints of absinthe and bitters to round it out.

"People ask me what to drink and I often recommend a daiquiri," says Shea, 42. "Their reaction is often to wrinkle their nose and say, 'Oh, that's too sweet!' It has to do with the blender resort drinks that most (people) come into contact with. I always ask them to trust me, and I'll make them a daiquiri. It's boastful, but feel I've got a pretty good success rate winning people over."

A whiskey drinker, Shea credits Ludwig, who runs Beaker and Flask next door, with turning him on to good sipping rums. Shea then teamed up with his longtime friend on Rum Club, a spot to showcase his new love. And there's plenty of room to play with the basic formula of rum, sugar and lime juice -- always fresh, no exceptions.

"As far as rum choice, one thing that I do love about the daiquiri is that it can present itself with so many variations of drinks," Shea says. "Each rum has its own unique characteristics that might require more lime or less sugar in that particular cocktail. Then, moving away from rum/lime/sugar: What happens when you use a different sugar -- Demerara, palm sugar, honey? What happens if you reduce the sugar and modify the drink with a little liqueur -- Benedictine, maraschino, curacao? What happens to the drink when you modify it with a touch of bitters?"

"Not every one of those daiquiris are the ideal, but you do have to break a few eggs to make a cake," he says.

And when it comes to the perfect daiquiri, well, that's an ideal Shea is happy to keep chasing.

"The best daiquiri that I've ever had is the one that I am drinking right after work," he says. "That daiquiri will be replaced by the daiquiri that I will be drinking tomorrow."

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RECIPES Daiquiris from the Rum Club

Rum Club Daiquiri This is the bar's twist on El Floridita Daiquiri, distinguished by its use of maraschino liqueur; this is a classic liqueur originally from the Croatian city of Zadar, not the artificial cherry stuff.

This Week's Shift Drink "This highlights how changing the rum takes a drink in a totally different direction," says owner Michael Shea. "It has a butterscotch and cinnamon profile without being cloying.

Shake everything with ice and strain into a coupe glass, then add five drops orange flower water on top for aroma.

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Langston Hughes "This is a shift drink that Mary Bartlett made for me," Shea explains. "It is essentially a Dark Hemingway with the addition of Peychaud's bitters. The smoky full proof Mount Gay Black 100 proof shows well here. This is currently on the menu."

What's your favorite thing to snack on while you enjoy a cocktail?As far as snacks, it depends on what I am drinking. I love a 50-50 gin martini with raw beef -- steak tartare, carapaccio. I do tend to drink cocktails on their own, and stick to Champagne and wine with most of my food.

If someone wanted a drink not on your menu, what would you recommend?As far as a "not on the menu drink" it always depends. On the person, the weather and my mood. Suggestions like that are always tied up in "reading the customer."

What's your go-to drink when you're somewhere you don't trust the bartender?My go-to drink for not trusting the bartender is -- the standard -- shot and a beer. I have a soft spot for airport Red Snappers -- Gin Bloody Mary.

What do you love/hate about Portland's bar scene?We have an amazing bar scene that has so many people doing great things. We are very blessed with all of the great ideas and talent in this town. My only complaint -- maybe about bars in general -- is that there may be pressure for some establishments to have to have some kind of "inventive" drink menu that they end up with all of these sweet, unbalanced cocktails. It might be skewing the public's perception of drink menus, i.e. people often ask me, "I want some something, not sweet." It would be nice to see some of these bars just stick to executing classics well.

What tip would you offer for the home bartender?Keep your vermouth in the refrigerator. It will stay fresher, longer. I would recommend for the home bartender to measure. Kevin (Ludwig, his business partner) once said, "It's like baking."

What drink order has stumped you?Stump the bartender is fairly hard in this day of smartphones.

What/where do you like to drink around town?I love what Blair is doing at Hale Pele. I always have mad respect for Teardrop, Sean and Art behind the bar together are always a pleasure to watch, pros. Sadly, I am at the bar so much right now that I rarely get out to drink in other people's bars. On my days off, you will more likely find me a restaurant.

What's your bartending philosophy?Drinking should be fun, after all, it does get you inebriated, and that's fun, right? Make great drinks, care about what you do, give great service.

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SEND IN YOUR DRINKSCitrus-centric cocktails

We all know an old-fashioned daiquiri allows the lime to shine. With winter offering a bounty of fresh citrus, I'm looking for drink specials that pay tribute to blood oranges, grapefruit, meyer lemons, mandarins and more.