It's not such a scary thing, actually: Tequila's once-estranged cousin has become a bartender favorite and even a great mixer. Here's how to drink it now.By Leslie Pariseau

Like Tequila, but Smokier

Like Tequila, but Smokier

Mezcal is an integral part of Mexican culture, having roots in pulque, a slightly boozy drink made from fermented agave mash. Eventually, the distilling process evolved to be based on the extraction of piñas, or hearts, of the maguey, or agave plant. The piñas are then cooked, usually in the ground, imparting the spirit with a typically savory, smoked flavor. (By contrast, tequila is usually steam-cooked and only produced in designated regions with only blue agave.) Traditionally, the cooked hearts are crushed with a tahona, a large stone wheel pulled by horses — which might be the most badass distillation process we're aware of — and then diluted and fermented in barrel. Classifications are similar to tequila: Joven is the term used for mezcals aged under two months or not at all. Reposados are rested in barrels for two months to one year, and añejos are aged from one to three years. Though not yet an official category, extra-añejos represent mezcals aged over three years.

The Strong Drink

The Strong Drink

Known for entering parties with a backpack stocked with a bottle of mezcal and clay shot bowls, Phil Ward, owner of tequila bar Mayahuel in New York City (pictured), pulled out this cocktail when I requested something strong and stirred. Spirit-forward, it has the elegance of a martini, but it's consumed with the ease of a sundowner.