You haven't met this guy yet. He has a long history here, despite his current low post count. His handle is pure irony, not lost on me or others. Watch as this unfolds...

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Thanks for the mention, Gerry.

Honestly, I have been watching him very closely since he joined the forum. It's very difficult to hide one's mannerisms and habits, especially after I've already banned him 5 times for this exact same behavior.

Each time he comes back to the forum, he begins by trying to get along with everyone, asking harmless-enough questions; and each time I do my best to reply to his questions and help him out.

Then he can't resist posting something like this, as well as the inane plasti-dip one he already put up.

Seiya, @Mazda6Suspension, I knew from the moment you started talking on this forum that you wouldn't be able to help yourself, and would revert to your old habits. I PM'd Brett from CorkSport immediately, telling him to humor you and your rants on his thread, and let me know as soon as you got out of hand.

You have 24 hours to clean up the garbage you continue to strew on this forum, lest you be banned a 6th time.

Though, I'm sure @SubiGT would like that so he can add to his signature.

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A gov't big enough to give you anything you want is big enough to take all you have."Camry: For Drivers Without a Soul." - Mz6GreyGhost
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Honestly, I have been watching him very closely since he joined the forum. It's very difficult to hide one's mannerisms and habits, especially after I've already banned him 5 times for this exact same behavior.

Each time he comes back to the forum, he begins by trying to get along with everyone, asking harmless-enough questions; and each time I do my best to reply to his questions and help him out.

Then he can't resist posting something like this, as well as the inane plasti-dip one he already put up.

Seiya, @Mazda6Suspension, I knew from the moment you started talking on this forum that you wouldn't be able to help yourself, and would revert to your old habits. I PM'd Brett from CorkSport immediately, telling him to humor you and your rants on his thread, and let me know as soon as you got out of hand.

You have 24 hours to clean up the garbage you continue to strew on this forum, lest you be banned a 6th time.

Though, I'm sure @SubiGT would like that so he can add to his signature.

The drill attachment is something i would not recommend unless you have no other avenue. i.e. if you are without a garage and have no source of electricity, and the only option to polish your car is using a battery drill, then go ahead with the Meguiars drill attachment polisher. If you have a power socket that you can use, buy a rupes duetto or Meguiars DA polisher.

The intent of using a dish washing soap to wash your car is to strip off any previous layers of wax/sealants. I'd just do a regular wash with car shampoo since you are hitting it with iron x and claying it anyways which will remove any previous layers of protection. Once you have cleaned the car and sprayed it with Iron x, do another rinse with just water ( or soap if you have time) before starting to clay. It is not necessary to wash again after claying. After you've clay bar the car, i suggest M105 or Rupes Quarz medium compound with rupes maroon or yellow cutting pad. M205 is a finisher and wont do much to remove deeper swirls. Once you are done compounding and have removed most of the swirls , finish with M205 or rupes ultra fine polish with yellow pad. Now give a final wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove the compound/polish agent before applying your choice of protection. Cquartz if you fancy ceramic or even regular synthetic protectant like menzerna should hold good for 6months to an year.

I agree with that, get a good DA and you'll be happy. I love the Griot's Garage GG6 for a starter unit, mostly because of the lifetime warranty. Buy direct from Griot's and they usually cover shipping both ways for warranty, I've learned. Also the Harbor Freight DA is great, just replace the grease with something way better (I went with high-temp boat grease, the good red stuff) and it will serve. You need a good backing pad, the HF one is junk. And if you want something that will do more work in less time, the Griot's BOSS (15mm or 21mm) is a great choice because it has the warranty, and has a great backing pad by default. I have a BOSS G15 on a 5.5" pad myself, that's my 100% go-to daily.

Thanks, budget will only allow the HF DA which should be fine since I only plan on a once a yr polish.

You should be fine. Like I said just get a quality backing pad, the HF pad is unacceptable for car polishing. GOOD for car sanding however! The CG flexible pad I use now works great with it. Also with my HF polisher (which is my backup of my backup) I wrapped (with traction tape) the metal around the cup because it gets really hot and its a good place to grab the polisher as long as you're not burning yourself!

If you are on a bit of a budget or just need a good starting point, a safe bet (besides the Griot BOSS polishing/correction creams) is the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Polish. They remain great for what they are, and there are some paints (like the new super-picky GM black) that do better with them that many of other "pro" products I have. And for pads (which is where the real money is spent, lol), Buff N Shine pads work really well with the HF unit. 5-5.5" would be my recommendation, try to stay with a smaller size to increase pressure potential which makes the relatively weak HF unit more effective and easier to wield! I still use the HF unit to do things like scrub really bad carpets (with a brush "pad").

Polish away! Oh and there's a Cobra surfacing pad that can do what clay bars do but on a more powerful level, and faster. There's a great excuse to break out the polisher more often than once a year.

I can see where you were trying to be helpful, but ended up just coming across as a complete douche. That is unfortunate because there were some good points there.

FYI full-grain leathers (like my red leather seats on my Durango) need something more than wax. Bonded leathers, semi-aniline leathers, full-grain leathers, yeah they all have different requirements. So nothing is a catch-all.

Here's a useful tip from a pro - Optimum Opti Clean 2.0 + a 3:1 ratio with distilled or filtered water + a splash of isopropyl alcohol makes a really good interior cleaner.

OTC products are meant to just buy and go. They aren't bad, they are just fail-safe. Pretty much everything but Armor-All is acceptable, IMO and in my personal detailing experience.

Ha, your first line stole the words out of my mouth. I moderate a completely different kind of forum, and we have those kind of knuckleheads too. why do some folks have to call others stupid when giving advice?

It's like telling people that coffee shops don't buy 12oz bags of ground coffee to use in the store. Well, duh. Buy in bulk. For chemicals, if you can buy concentrated stuff and dilute, do it.

I don't have space to have 4-8 different gallon or 5 gallon sized containers sitting around. So, Chemical Bro's and Meguiars does the trick for me. Just can't go crazy with it or you're spending too much money. sometimes just good old soap and water works wonders too. UV light is a big deal, so whatever you can do to minimize the impact also helps.

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