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I'm considering a JVC G15 for some time in the future. After downloading the user manual, I see that it says "To ceiling-mount and adjust the projector, special expertise and technique are necessary. Be sure to ask your dealer or a specialist to perform this work." I've made a ceiling mount for my current projector, and if I get the G15, I'd prefer to make one for it. Is this just a lawyer inspired statement? Do you remove the adjustable feet and use the threaded holes for ceiling mounts? Are there other adjustments to make to the projector other than changing the â€œposition selecting screw"?

"You certainly can. That is exactly what I did with a G11. If you are interested, I posted some semi-detailed instructions for using the legs in a custom mount on this page."

I looked at this before. It looks like a great setup. My current projector is a Sony 400Q which I mounted with a homemade "hanging" mount. I used 1-1/2 inch galvanized pipe which is screwed into a flange screwed securely to a ceiling rafter. The other end has a flange attached to it also that is screwed into a board about as large as the projector. I had to get 6mm bolts to hold some homemade flanges on the projector with 6 inch carriage bolts attached pointing up. I then put the bolts through holes in the board, added nuts and flat washers. This gave me a large, three-point adjustment. It worked just fine for the Sony.

I project through a wall as you do. I haven't cut away the projection room wall as you have. I just put a trim ring on both sides. I'm hoping that, if I decide to get a Panamorph, that I'll have enough room for it.

Viewing your excellent web page reminded me about the remote sensor. The Sony has one on each end. I planned on using the pyramid repeater in the projection room. I'll have to rig up a piece of mirror or something.

Another mounting idea that I'll be trying is to use angle steel (the
kind with holes) instead of a wooden mount. Use four pieces of angle
steel bolted together in a "#" shape with the cross pieces located at
the bolt points on the projector. (This also allows me to use shorter
bolts - it's difficult to find the longer metric bolts needed to fit
through a 3/4" piece of wood.)

I also plan to attach a heavy duty drawer slide to the outer braces to
make it easier to remove the projector for servicing. (That idea
came from an earlier post of this subject.)

For what itâ€™s worth, I just mounted a G11 on a 6" X 6" beam in my cathedral ceiling family room last weekend. I used three heavy duty "L" brackets I purchased for Home Depot. I temporarily mounted the projector to the beam and aligned it horizontally to the screen. I drilled enough holes in the bracket so I could elongate them (front to back slot) This gave me about an inch and a half front to back movement so I could dial in the image size on my 100â€™ 3 X 4 screen.

The hardest part of the whole installation was finding metric threaded rods. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif The front and rear left (when inverted) foot holes are 8mm course thread. I was finally able to get an 8mm (very close to 5/16") treaded rod at a specialty hardware store. The other foot threaded hole is 5mm, which is approximately 3/16". This threaded rod or long threaded bolt I couldnâ€™t find. So I purchased a standard 3/16 threaded rod and rethreaded the length to go into the projector to 5mm. The set up is worked fine.

I locked the rod into the projector foot hole with a large fender washer (big washer with a small hole) and a nut. I then put the projector and threaded rods up through the "L" bracket, adjusted and the tightened nuts and washers to the bottom and top side of the bracket.

The beauty of the set up is that it gives total projector leveling and tilt control. I had to up angle the front of the projector by about a degree and a half to align to the top edge with my screen. This little adjustment, surpassingly didnâ€™t cause any noticeable trapezoidal effect. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/biggrin.gif