Hue sets lively tone at table

Heather McPhersonOrlando Sentinel Food Editor

Hue restaurant has an enviable Orlando location. The eatery holds court on the edge of downtown and Thornton Park. The sidewalks are flush with passers-by. And a patio provides a focal point that sweeps around the intersection of Central Boulevard and Summerlin Avenue.

Urban Life Management Restaurant Group opened Hue in 2001. Its family tree includes Thornton Park neighbor Cityfish and downtown Orlando's Citrus. The kitchen is now in the able hands of executive chef Eduardo Remusat.

The outside dining area is a mix of high tops and regular tables with a comfy banquette that wraps around the curved space. The inside is awash in light from the windows overlooking the patio. The vibe is honest urban chic with a decor tone that is natural and not affected.

The menu changes daily, but there are a few mainstays that keep regulars coming back.

At lunch, we sampled the crispy chicken Caesar salad ($13) with sriracha giving a nice punch of heat to the dressing. (Sriracha is a garlicky Southeast Asian hot sauce.) The salad offered a hefty serving of panko-crusted poultry on sweet Romaine lettuce.

The deal of the day was the half-sandwich and soup special ($10). Our sammie was composed of thick-cut Boar's Head ham dressed with butter lettuce and tomato on a sweet-nutty brown roll. The lobster bisque was creamy with a good seafood flavor and visible slivers of the sweet meat of the crustacean throughout.

At dinner, the crispy calamari ($14) with banana and chili peppers was a standout. Great flavor and not overly breaded, the appetizer was easily shareable among four guests. The rich ahi tuna tartare starter ($10) paired with a sweet and sultry banana guacamole was also a winner. The Angus meatballs ($8), which were served in a wonderful tomato ragu with fresh arugula, were a bit loose in structure for my taste.

For entrees, the Ashley Farms grilled chicken ($22) came with oven-roasted potatoes, spinach and mushrooms. Lightly seasoned and cooked through, the poultry was juicy and tender.

Equally appealing was our duck ($24), which came with a cranberry reduction, English peas, butternut squash and an amaretto risotto that I can't wait to remake at home.

The snapper ($24) was a beautiful cut of fish. It was perfectly cooked so that pieces fell away from the fillet with just a gentle nudge of the fork. Buttery herbed couscous was a good foil for the lean fish.

Twin beef fillets ($27) were presented in a mushroom demiglace. The meat was tender but lacked wow-factor flavor one expects from the pricey cut. However, the plate showcased the side dish stars of the evening: a cheesy potato stack and sautéed rapini drizzled in bacon vinaigrette.

For dessert, we demolished a velvety chocolate soufflé ($8) with decadent crème Anglaise.