In a rather classical style, but without a shoulder blade fold, this shirt is quite close to the body; yet it having the necessary ease in the back.

The measurements:

Chest – 50

Scye Depth – 23 ½ (scye depth is a calculated measurement: ¼ chest + ¼ waist length (see page 154 of Intermode 1973-1974). it also can be measured from the neck point to a strip of folded paper which is clamped under the arm in the highest possible position and folded horizontally to centre back. (Actual scye depth will be 2cm lower(W....O).)

The entire neck seam(W...A1 + A7...C1) should almost be the Neck width of 41 cm. At the same time any occurring difference has to be eliminated by adjusting the height of A7.

A7...S2 = Same width as A2…S1

O2...S2 = O1 S1 – 2 cm

Side Seam: O4 lies 1 cm in front of the middle of O1...O2. Draw a vertical midline; remove 1,5cm at waist depth narrowing into the hem. (I.e.: shape the actual side seam lines, hollowing 1,5cm on both sides at the waistline and tapering to 0cm at the hemline.)

Front Edge (overlap) extends 2cm from centre front line.

Yoke: the yoke seam is measured down: 3 cm from A7 and S2: 5 cm from S1: 6 cm from W: The shoulder blade dart (A1...A2) is vertical and tapering to the yoke seam, and will be folded/pinched away.

Drawingupper right corner: To form the yoke join the shoulder lines A2..S1 and A7...S2.The back yoke seam curves out ½ cm between the arm scye and the folded dart line. Hollow both front yoke seams ½ cm at the first third.

Sleeve Cap: in the rear the upper third curves out 2 cm, in the front lower third a 1 cm hollow.

P...P6 and P...P7: 15 cm each (straight seam lines to U6 and U7)

The Rear Slit lies 6 cm inside P7 and is 10 cm long.

Left and right of the slit are lying with each 2 cm distance and each 2 cm deep folds. The cuff is 26 cm long and 7 cm wide.

Fig. 8 back, front and Yoke (Göller)

Not only the contour of the sides seams but also the contour of the yoke seams of the pattern pieces have to match exactly.

Fig. 8 to 11: The Collar

It can be worked with a separate stand or as a one-piece collar. In the latter case though there is a condition, that the rear collar width (K2... K4) is ½ cm higher than the collar stand (W...K2)

Fig. 8: the Collar Stand

A...C = half collar width (20 ½ cm)

C...C1 = ½ cm

C...3 = 3 cm

A...W = 1 ½ cm

W...K2 = 3 ½ cm

C1...C2 = 2 ½ cm, right angle to the line 3...C1

Extension of the collar stand seam C1: 2cm, (it’s the same amount that the front edge extends past the centre front CF)

Fig. 9: The One Piece Collar

K2...K4 = 4 cm (= ½ cm more than W...K2)

C5 = ca. 4 cm outside C1

C5...K5 = ca. 10 cm

Fig. 10: Preparation for the two piececollar

Here K2…K4 is more than ½ cm wider than the collar foot (stand);

Therefore the outer edge of the collar would be too short compared to a one-piece collar. Parallel to CB, K2...K4, lines are drawn 3 cm apart.

Fig. 11: Collar with a separate stand

After the collar fold line is cut off (line K2...C2), the three lines are slashedto the collar foldline, and opened at the outer edge by about a third each of the missing amount (Total extension: the amount, that K2...K4 is wider than W...K2).

All 3 PDF files are easy to download (I recommend the "gross" (means big) version), although it takes a while to load.

Some interesting drafts, as far as I can tell so far.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben.""Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

Hi tarcisio, it is a very interesting draft, illustrating many different ways of solving fitting problems.

Look at the sleeve draft, it is asymmetrical. There is no pleat under the yoke so the ease is put into those curves on each side.

And, there is a pleat in the yoke itself.

I haven't made it up as yet.

I mostly do the work of the translating when I want to know things for myself, I have no problem posting them here afterwards for all to see.

There might still be problems with the draft, there always seems to be some in any draft. I would love to see someone give it a go too.

I think what you are seeing on the diagram is not a pleat just an indication of the other half of the yoke which isn't drawn in.
Also there shouldn't be ease in the curves, they are just darts, and body and yoke seams should be equal there.

Yes in paper you would overlap the dart that they indicate, which transfers the value of that dart into the yoke seam, thereby changing the shape of the yoke. In essence the dart value is now horizontal, but now in a seam.

The convex curves in the yoke do give a bit of fabric length over the blade, but do not give you the same result as a pleat in the yoke.

A back pleat is held in place at the yoke seam but gives extra fabric widthwise as it releases over the blade.
That pleat is usually added equally from yoke to hem. (But it can be played with if one wished)

The dart A1-A2 in this pattern is meant to be pinched away in the paper pattern to transfer it in a horizontal position. Then the yoke piece, that is cut off from the front (3cm from S2-A7) gets added along this now straight line A1-S1 to create the final yoke paper pattern piece that will be cut in fabric.

The text doesn´t mention, that the yoke parts will be cut off the front and back pattern pieces.