July 27, 2006

The menu states "Behind every great seafood restaurant is a warehouse stocked with fresh seafood." It certainly applies in this case since The Fishery is the retail market and restaurant side of the Pacific Shellfish Seafood Company. The brainchild of Judd Brown, this San Diego based wholesale distributor operates from a state of the art 8,600 square foot facility attached to the restaurant. A vast selection comes in from all over the world and is limited only by availability and demand. This provides one hell of a playground for a seafood chef to play in.

Speaking of chefs, The Fishery employs two, Jim Little and Kevin Hale. It is a case of two heads are better than one. Kevin and Jim, "bounce ideas off each other," to come up with the menu and nightly specials states Kevin. The specials are driven by what catches their attention in that massive warehouse and might include such sumptuous items as harpooned swordfish, Yukon salmon, and line caught Kona Coast Hawaiian tombo. The kitchen prepares all of their food from scratch with an emphasis on fresh seasonal ingredients, local produce, and local bakers.

With all that fresh seafood waiting, I hopped in a cab and headed to The Fishery for dinner. I arrived at 8:45pm and the joint was hopping. Diners sit amongst a demonstration style kitchen

and the retail fish counter.

After being seated, my server Janice took my order. I started with the appetizer special of Georges Bay scallops($13).

These Massachusetts beauties were huge U10's that had been seared, creating a crispy crust. They were served medium rare, with a roasted white corn ragout, and topped with an ancho chili cream. Chef Hale had re-hydrated dried ancho chilies, pureed them, and blended in sour cream. This was a fabulous offering, and one of the best scallop dishes I have ever had. If it is on the menu it is a must order. The second appetizer was the ceviche and tortilla chips ($10) that Janice had recommended.

Served in a large goblet, this was a huge portion even by my standards. It featured lime marinated sea bass, salsa fresca, avocado and light, crisp, white corn tortilla chips. The dish came with a smokey salsa rojo on the side, that when added, brought an interesting new dimension to the flavors.

Tart and refreshing, the ceviche is perfect for the hot summer days and nights we have been experiencing. Next up was the Fishery Mediterranean bowl of chowder($6).

The complex flavors of the tomato broth came from an infusion of fresh herbs and this chowder was loaded with fresh fish. The broth is not heavy, yet there is a richness to it that is intriguing. It was time to move from the starters to the entrees. First was the grilled local swordfish ($27).

The swordfish steak had beautiful cross hatched grill marks and was moist yet firm. It arrived perched atop a generous portion of Dungeness crab mashed potatoes. The potatoes were over the top. Creamy, rich, mashed potatoes infused with a generous amount of decadent crab meat, what's not to love about this? The earthy character of the asparagus was brought out by grilling. The balsamic reduction added a sweet component. Fresh watercress and dill provided the perfect finishing note. This dish is a winner. Next came the grilled Costa Rican mahi mahi ($23).

The mahi mahi was placed on a bed of jasmine rice and then topped with a jicama slaw. Mango vinaigrette and cilantro oil were drizzled around the outside of the plate. Watercress and flat leaf parsley provided the finishing touch. The texture of the fish was moist and tender and it's flavor worked well with the tropical mango vinaigrette. The peppery note from the watercress mated well with the jicama slaw. I tried mixing all the flavors together with some fragrant jasmine rice and the result was outstanding. It was truly greater than the sum of the individual parts. This is a refreshing entree and is well suited to the hot summer weather. Last but not least came an evening special of wild sockeye salmon ($26).

Discs of roasted red bliss potatoes, and sauteed spinach formed a base for the salmon filet which is topped with watercress. Everything was drizzled with a fuji apple and bacon vinaigrette. I was enjoying how the vinegar, apple, bacon, potato and spinach flavors were working together when it dawned on me; Chef Hale had drawn on the similarities in the flavor combinations of German potato salad and spinach salad with bacon vinaigrette. He then combined the two flavor sets and featured them with the salmon. This is an innovative offering, and I highly recommend it.

What do you get when you combine two savy seafood chefs, a restaurant and a giant seafood warehouse? That's an easy one, great food. The Fishery combines the best raw ingredients with inovation and solid execution. The outcome is a restaurant producing dishes that all seafood lovers should try.

Postscript;

I am hesitant to divulge the following information because when something is as good as this it can make you selfish and greedy. Oh to hell with it, here it is. Once or twice a year The Fishery manages to somehow obtain live Alaskan king crab. You heard me right, I said LIVE. For those of you that don't know, this is almost unheard of. They are shipped overnight express each in it's own large crate and let me tell you kiddo, they are in fighting shape when they arrive. These crabs are huge, usually weighing 12 to 15 pounds each. Their wing span claw to claw is longer than mine and I am 6'5" tall. The Fishery keeps them in their live lobster tanks when they arrive. They will not sell these monsters to go, besides, unless you have access to a commercial
kitchen you would have no way to cook one, they are just too big. You will never see them on the menu. There is a list you need to be on. When they are on the way those on the list receive a call and are given the opportunity to claim one of these beasts. The price is dear, $250 per crab. Twice I have had the pleasure of feasting on these. The first one I shared with a friend. The second I ate by myself and I barely finished (and folks, let me tell you, I can eat.) It is far and away the best crab I have ever had. Is it worth the money? Every penny, all 25,000 of them. There you have it, the cat is out of the bag. When the season comes you will all know where to find me.

July 19, 2006

Summer this year in San Diego has been unseasonably hot and humid. When the blast-furnace heat from your oven turns your kitchen into Dante's seventh level of hell, fear not. Salvation is tucked away amidst downtown La Jolla's fashionable shops and glitzy restaurants. It is named Girard Gourmet. This long standing establishment offers made to order sandwiches,

homade soups and quiches, a wide selection of baked goods,

and my favorite, gourmet entrees plated and ready to go.

Beef Burgundy, Vegetarian Lasagna, Turkey Stuffed with Broccoli.

Meatloaf, Chicken Fajitas, Chili Relleno.

Lamb Stew, Roast Duck, Tortellini Marinara. All of Girard Gourmet's offerings may be enjoyed on their inviting sidewalk cafe

or in the dining area at the back of the space.

My favorite option, however, is having the staff expertly pack my selections to go. Since my kitchen has felt like an inferno as of late, I have been compelled to make several trips to Girard Gourmet recently. I reheated all of the following dishes using my ambient temperature friendly microwave oven (obviously not the gazpacho.) One evening I started with the mango gazpacho soup. ($4.50)

The bright flavor of the mango married nicely with the red onions, cucumbers and fresh cilantro. This makes a cool, refreshing start for a hot summer night's dinner. I next had the roast duck entree with German potato salad and rice. ($7.75)

The potato salad was just average being a little dry and bland. I prefer my German potato salad with a stronger vinegar and green onion flavor more in line with the moist offering at Tip Top Meats in Carlsbad.

The roast duck on the other hand was a delight. The meat was falling off the bone tender and moist. The orange, tamarind flavored sauce had a hint of sweetness and was so good I was glad there was enough to cover my rice. I highly recommend this offering. Being the ferocious eater that I am, I followed the duck with the turkey stuffed with broccoli. ($6.50)

The turkey was moist and flavorful and the broccoli was tender. What made this dish really sing, though, was the dreamy, creamy homade bechamel sauce. The turkey was another winner. On a different night I began with a chicken curry soup. ($4.50)

The soup was good but not one of the stronger offerings. It had peas, rice and a nice amount of shredded chicken. The flavor was that of a curry that had been thinned out and had lost some of it's intensity in the process. I followed the soup with the lamb stew. ($7.75) Dianna, the owner, had recommended this.

Let me tell you folks, this stew is packed with flavor. The lamb was fork tender, and the sauce with the carrots and onions had a rich intensity with a mild sweetness that I really enjoyed. The lamb stew is a must try. I finished up with another of Dianna's recommendations, the mushroom spinach quiche. ($6.95)

This was an excellent selection. The filling was creamy and studded with mushrooms, the spinach as tender as could be. The crust was a perfect combination of crispy sides and a firm but tender bottom. The whole thing is topped with just the right amount of cheese. The quiche comes with a refreshing salad of cucumbers and cherry tomatoes, dressed in a light vinaigrette. If you are a big fan of quiche, Girard Gourmet's rendition alone would make a trip worth wile.

Girard Gourmet delivers on its name, providing high quality products that can be eaten on premises or taken to go. When the temperatures soar and the idea of turning your kitchen into Dante's inferno makes you grimace, Girard Gourmet is a great option to help beat the heat.

July 11, 2006

Gather around boys and girls and let me tell you a tale of conquest and adventure. Once upon a time in a sleepy little hamlet, there was a noble king. One day as he looked out upon his kingdom he was saddened by the lack of culinary riches. It was then he launched a daring plan to build a grand dining palace and lure away a fabled knight from Camelot's round table to lead them into battle. What is interesting about this tale is that it is taking place right now and it is true. The hamlet is San Diego, the dining palace is Jack's La Jolla, the noble king is owner Bill Berkley and the night of the round table is chef / owner Tony Di Salvo, formerly Chef de Cuisine of legendary Jean Georges in New York City. To say Jack's is a restaurant would be inaccurate. Actually the complex at Jack's consists of The Dining Room at Jack's, The Courtyard Grill, Ocean View Oyster Bar, Piano Bar, Wall Street Bar, Living Room Lounge, Wine Bar, Beach Bar, a bakery, The Sidewalk Bistro, and a coffee bar. So it was that on a warm July evening, I ventured in to the Jack's La Jolla's flagship restaurant, The Dining Room at Jack's.

The dining area is actually broken up into seperate pieces causing Sandy, a member of our party to observe "Our room was like it's own seperate hideaway."

The space is open and airy. The furnishings are elegant, the seating extremely comfortable and my overall impression was that this was a great place to spend a couple of hours enjoying one of my favorite passtimes, eating great food. After a few minutes the procession of servers began. First a busboy to find out what type of water we wanted. Next our first server Peggy introduced herself, dispensed menus and took our cocktail orders. (We were actually there long enough to see a shift change.) Third we received a visit from the Wine Director Jerome Astolfi offering his services to help with the selection process. Having done research on the menu already, I took this opportunity to slip away and wash my hands. On my way to the loo I passed by an interesting feature of the Jack's complex.

The Dining Room at Jack's features an open, demonstration style kitchen. Here you can watch Chef DiSalvo (pictured here rolling out fresh made pasta) and his well orchestrated crew as they work their magic.

I arrived back at our table to discuss the menu with my dining partners Norman and Sandy. I tell them I intend to go all in with three appetizers two entrees and a desert. They had intended to order about the same amount, but for the two of them. The first item to arrive is a starter every guest is served.

It is a boneless prime spare rib with white asparagus puree and a peppercorn vinaigrette. The meat was melt in your mouth tender and worked nicely with the rich asparagus flavor and the bright bite of the vinagrette. Sandy who was taking notes of her own, wrote simply but accurately, "YUMMY." Next came the appetizers we ordered.

Pictured above is the sauteed Sonoma Foie Gras with strawberries, pine nuts, galangal and ice wine vinegar. ($22) Now Norman and I are confessed Foie Gras aholics. I have personally witnessed Chef Jean-Michell Diot cut Norman off when he tried place an order for his third portion at Tapenade. To put it simply, our expectations were high. Upon examining the plate I noticed the portion size was quite large. Often Chefs plate up postage stamp sized portions of foie gras which had always left me wanting more. Not this time, Chef DiSalvo's offering is large, plump and cooked to perfection. The strawberry and ice wine vinegar play out sweet and tart with the galangal adding its own pungent, citrus/gingery note. Norman and I concur, Chef DiSalvo hit this one out of the park. This is a must order item.

Next came the Burrata with Proscuitto, cherries wild arugula and sourdough. ($12) The burrata had been sliced causing the cream and curd filling to ooze out. The rich creamy burrata with the salty proscuitto ballanced perfectly and the cherries put it over the top. This was another great offering.

Pictured above is the Poached Main Lobster with risotto and apple kaffir lime broth. ($21) The presentation of this dish is impressive. Claw and tail meat sit atop the risotto which itself is topped with a kaffir lime broth that has been foamed, an inovative technique that is gaining in popularity. This is all topped with julienned apple. I managed to get a little bit of everything on one fork full and the result was deep, complex and although nothing like I expected, it's delicious. This dish really pushes the envelope and I must say it impressed me.

The last appetizer was the Bluefin Tuna Cubes with aromatic vegetable vinaigrette and grilled mushroom broth. This is another dish that has some very complex flavors going on. The broth reminded me of asian bonito broth. As this was Sandy's appetizer I only had the chance to try a couple bites but even so, I loved it and would order it again. This wrapped up the first courses, now it was time to move on to the entrees. About this time we were introduced to our new server Alexa Lind.

Norman and I both ordered the Spice Crusted Black Sea Bass with sugar snap peas, mushrooms, japanese eggplant, and soy sweet broth. ($32) By now I am getting a feel for Chef DiSalvo's style. His dishes come at you with a tour de force of flavors masterfully selecte d to work together. The sea bass is in this same mold. The fish itself is perfect. Crisped skin and buttery, moist flesh. Again I got a little of everything on a single fork full, closed my eyes, and was taken away. There is a salty sweet flavor combination that is just plain crazy good. Norman and I concur again, this dish is a big winner.

Sandy ordered the Crispy Jidori Chicken with honshimeji mushrooms, lemon grass and white corn. ($ 28) Now I have read about these Japanese heratige style, boutique birds but I always thought "How good can they be? It's a freaking chicken." When Sandy let us try this dish Norman and I were floored. The chicken was crispy on the outside, tender, moist and rich in flavor on the inside . This played perfectly with the honshimeji mushrooms which have a crispy exterior with a soft interior when cooked. This is one of the best chickens I have ever had and may be the best chicken dish in San Diego. If you order chicken in restaurants you must get over to Jack's and try Chef DiSalvo's masterfull monument to poultry.

My second entree was Muscovy Duck Breast with white peaches, radishes, and ginger-spice jus. ($36) The Duck breast comes perched atop a boniato puree. The duck was cooked to perfection the jus sweet and flavorful. I once again assemled all the flavors in a single fork full and they worked together perfectly. I was sceptical about the radish but it added alot to the mix. The white sweet potato puree was creamy smooth and gave up it's natural sugars. This dish reminded me of the inovative deconstruction culinary technique where flavor components are plated seperately. This was a simple yet very interesting offering. Well that was it for the main courses, on to dessert. Joshua Ball is the pastry chef and he has his own kitchen to work in. I have read a bit about him and he has a reputation for being "Over the top." He sounds like my kind of guy.

When I laid eyes on the dessert menu I immediately knew what I was ordering, The Roasted Banana Souffle with Hawaiian chocolate, caramel and Whoppers. ($14) It came with milk chocolate gelato and a tiny pitcher of Cajeta, a traditional form of dolce de leche, to pour over the top. I made a mistake when I ordered this dessert, I didn't order two more for Norman and Sandy. As soon as I gave them a taste it was all over. I was lucky to get one third. The souffle had a crispy outside and a molten inside. There was an intense banana flavor, gooey chocolate and caramel inside and a nice crunch from smashed up Whoppers. That's right folks, Chef Ball uses those famous malted milk balls in his offering. Now as those of you know that have read my past reviews, I am not that big on desserts. Praise the food gods and halleluiah, Chef Ball has made me see the light. This souffle is inovative, outrageous, and absolutely fabulous. If it is on the menu you must order this.

So there it is, a fairy tale with a happy ending. Both the peasantry and nobility of our humble hamlet owe Bill Berkley a debt of gratitude for having the vision to bring us Jack's of La Jolla. In bringing the world class culinary talents of Tony DiSalvo to The Dining Room at Jack's he has done all San Diegans a great service. Every one of Chef DiSalvo's dishes was excellent and inovative. Pastry Chef Joshua Ball is a good match with his envelope pushing creations. The serving staff is exemplery, the wine list is extensive and the decor is sophisticated. I give this restaurant my highest recomendation.

Please note, while bringing larger pictures to the site, there were technical difficulties involving the photographs and the html editor that caused some shots to be off center. We will solve this problem before the next review.

July 06, 2006

Yesterday I was in La Jolla preparing for an upcoming review of The Dining Room at Jack's. (Look for it early next week). The plan is to shoot all the photos for the review except the actual food which I will photograph at dinner the next night. I like to photograph high end restaurants before they open so as not to irritate patrons paying $35 per entree. On my way to the shoot I notice a tasty looking bakery/gourmet deli and decide to head back and check it out when I am done. After finishing the shoot I walk back to Truffles. Upon entering I am greeted by Sonia and Jenny, two lovely and friendly ladies working behind the deli case. I told Sonia I had seen some big, fat, empanadas through the front window. Sonia is up on them and gives me the 411. These empanadas are Spanish style and also hand made. She also quickly points out that they are baked, not deep fried so they are low in cholesterol. Today there are five varieties. Beef, ham and cheese, spinach and cheese, sun dried tomatoes and cheese, and chocolate. ($2.75 each). This is starting to look like dinner to me. I tell Sonia I will take one of each except the chocolate. She offers to heat them up for me but I pass since I won't be eating them for several hours. Fast forward to 8:00 pm. I fire up the oven to 300 degrees and put the empanadas on a sheet pan. I pop the sheet pan in the oven and set the timer for 20 minutes. Next I make myself a cocktail and kick back to listen to some tunes. Ten minutes down and the kitchen is smelling really good. Ten minutes more and it is showtime. I try the ham and cheese first. Now obviously the shell is an important component in a good empanada. Truffles empanada shells are made with puff pastry. The shell is light, flaky and flavorful. The ham and cheese filling is moist and tasty. Next I try the beef. It is good but a little dry. When I try the spinach and cheese it becomes my favorite so far. The filling is moist and flavorful. I try the sun dried tomato and cheese last. I am surprised that this is my favorite of the lot. (I am normally not a big fan of sun dried tomatoes). The sharp, tangy flavor of the tomatoes stand up well to the shell, add in the cheddar cheese and the combination works really well. To sum it up, if you like empanadas like I do, you should give Truffles a try. I will be back for more and next time I will try the chocolate for dessert.