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Smoke ‘n’ Roll at The Black Heart, Camden

This street food pub residency business is a great idea, in my opinion. Good, cheap food in pubs means we can spend more time in pubs, which is probably Great Britain’s finest hobby. But the fact that it’s in demand from the pubs as well as the food now means that it’s no longer safe to assume that the food will always be great. Sadly what they’re currently serving at dingy but perky Camden pub The Black Heart was not the sort of meal I’d go back for.

My beef brisket sandwich was alright, though the beef was quite dry and less smoky than corner shop bacon. Good bread, pickles and sauce nearly rescued it, but I can give you a dozen options of better, cheaper meat-in-buns just off the top of my head. And the slaw wasn’t even a bit nice; too much citrus and no interesting savoury flavours meant it was abandoned in favour of pinching my friend’s chips. Sorry, Smoke ‘n’ Roll, but you’ll have to try harder to keep your place in Camden’s Heart.