>> Stefano Pilati favors supermodels for his Yves Saint Laurent ad campaigns — five seasons strong now — and two showed up front row for the YSL show today: Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss. Pilati, who favors little color, as famously noted by Anna Wintour in The September Issue, stuck to mostly white and black, gray, and tan, with a little emerald, periwinkle blue, and coral pink thrown in for good measure. “It’s many, many ideas, a multiplicity of influences, an aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism,” the designer, often referred to as "cerebral" or "intellectual," said of the collection, which he styles himself.

He drew from Saint Laurent's heritage peasant motif, and added a dollop of strawberries — in prints, appliques, and ceramic earrings, which raised a number of eyebrows but have a fan in at least one influencer; Kate Moss announced backstage, “I want to wear that strawberry dress." For all the sweetness, there was no lack of edge: leather shorts with knee slits are sure to be a hit, and suiting was left with slashed hemlines and loose threads hanging.