Because
of both its cellar longevity and its ability to maintain varietal identity
while reflecting the individuality of its terroir, Riesling may be the
best of all the white wine grapes. Its homeland is Germany, where it has
been cultivated since the 1400s or earlier, and where it is made into
wines that run the gamut from bone dry and crisp quaffers to the complex,
unctuous nectars made from Botrytis-affected, shriveled berries, individually
late-picked, and known by the moniker Trockenbeerenauslese.

Sometimes
referred to as White, Rhine, or Johannisberg, the Riesling name has been
tarnished by the attachment of its name to other white varietals (Grey
Riesling--aka Chaucé Gris--, Walschriesling--aka Italian Riesling--,
and Missouri Riesling) that are of far lesser quality and genetically
unrelated to the true Riesling. It does have distant relatives in the
Sylvaner (or Franken) Riesling and the crosses, Emerald Riesling (with
Muscadelle du Bordelais) and Müller-Thurgau (with Sylvaner). In Germany,
there are more than 60 selected Riesling clones available to meet various
flavor and growing condition criteria.

Riesling
vines are particularly hard-wooded and tolerant of cold weather and they
bud late, so are well-suited to the coldest wine-growing climes. Riesling
is both moderately vigorous and productive, yielding from three to six
tons per acre. The berries are small, round and soft when ripe, with tender,
greenish-yellow skins that have a flecked appearance from lenticels (lens-shaped
pores) on the skins. Hanging in compact, winged clusters and ripening
later than other varieties, bunch rot and non-beneficial molds can be
a problem if there is much rain or humidity during in the ripening season.

If
dry conditions, however, follow a single day of wet, Riesling grapes left
on the vine beyond normal ripeness can develop Edelfäule (Nobel Rot).
The result of this ugly but non-toxic mold, Botrytis cinerea, is the shriveling
of the grapes, the evaporation of much of the juice, and the concentration
of the sugar. The German names for this heirarchy, which ascends in order
of the must weight or degree of sugar concentration, are Spätlese
(late-picked), Auslese (selectively-picked bunches), Beerenauslese (selectively-picked
berries), and Trockenbeerenauslese (only the most affected berries), or
TBA. These wines have not only incredibly intense and concentrated flavors,
but also remarkable life span.

Hillside
microclimates which provide cool climates and at the same time plenty
of sun exposure, yet protection from the winds are of paramount importance
to quality Riesling. The best German vineyards with these conditions on
the Mosel River produce wines that are unique in their low alcohol, powerful
aroma, and high extract. This grape also is very successful in Alsace,
France. The nominees for Best Supporting Appellation in California Riesling
are: Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and Mendocino, while Washington
and Oregon also have done well. Other countries which grow Riesling with
much dedication, albeit generally lesser results, are Australia, South
Africa, Chile, Austria, Switzerland, Russia, Yugoslavia, and Italy.

Riesling
has a powerful and distinctive floral and apple-like aroma that frequently
mixes in mineral elements from its vineyard source and is often described
as "racy." Its high natural level of Tartaric acid enables it
to balance even high levels of residual sugar. The most frequently encountered
(but not exclusive) smell and/or flavor elements found in riesling-based
wines include:

The
light, delicately sweet flavor of simple pan-fried-in-butter trout is
especially good with Riesling. On the other hand, grilled or sautéed
sausage, with its range from savory to spicy, also works well with this
varietal. As with most foods, spices and sauce should be the factors that
determine the wine match, rather than the color of the meat. Try a Riesling
with Spicy Long Bean Beef Stir Fry and you'll understand.