Nerf Barricade

Hey was at Charlestown Target today and saw they have the new Nerf Barricade RV-10. My mate ended up buying it it's not a bad gun, it's sort of like an upgraded Maverick REV-6, It shoots 10 whistle darts and is motorised. Only draw back is that you can't shoot it without turning it on and the motor is as loud as a hair dryer and sounds like one as well, so not very good for nerfing at night since you can't sneak around unless you turn it off.

Just got one as a Chrissy prezzie, Pretty good, went to mod it, open it up, and the internals are so different to any other guns, no cylinders or anything, just two rollers, so only mods i could do are trap door and trigger lock...

DougoDistructo wrote:Just got one as a Chrissy prezzie, Pretty good, went to mod it, open it up, and the internals are so different to any other guns, no cylinders or anything, just two rollers, so only mods i could do are trap door and trigger lock...

DougoDistructo wrote:Just got one as a Chrissy prezzie, Pretty good, went to mod it, open it up, and the internals are so different to any other guns, no cylinders or anything, just two rollers, so only mods i could do are trap door and trigger lock...

But im going to make it detachable under-gun for my singled longshot.

-Dougie

Not to be bias or anything, but I'd do a LongStorm Mod

Hmm, I see, do you mean put a tac rail attachment thingo on the underside of the longshot so you can attach pretty much any weapon?

I wonder just how high of a voltage the stock motor can accept before it goes FT(his)S. Since the more voltage you stick in this bastard, the further your darts get, I wonder how much range you could squeeze out of it if you put, say, 16 volts in there, or 24 volts.

SnowDragon wrote:I wonder just how high of a voltage the stock motor can accept before it goes FT(his)S. Since the more voltage you stick in this bastard, the further your darts get, I wonder how much range you could squeeze out of it if you put, say, 16 volts in there, or 24 volts.

gooni wrote:Re the noise, you can hear them here. One has the SGnerf trigger power mod, the other is stock power on.

In real life they dont seam to be as loud as that, Mate of mine has one and while it is definatly not a sneaky weapon it could be good with a bunker or a capture the flag type game.

While on SG nerf (i think) someone had already pull off a mod so when the trigger was pulled halfway it would engage the flywheel in a similar fasion to the NF activating the 'laser sight'.

Mind you on a side thought with either a lightened flywheels you could increase spin up times and be able to use it as a quick pop weapon or make the flywheels heavyer and use the momentum to help throw the darts further and get a more consistent fire rate without the drop in rpm or putting too much load on the motor after startup.

Adding more weight would be an issue because the stock motors do not have a lot of torque.A mere dart jam can halt the motor and activate the overload circuit.Or instead, it will be more likely to burn out the motor, before it gets the chance to spin up.

Electric motors require more current initially on startup, as it requires more work to accelerate from a stationary position, rather than maintain speed.

The more speed you put on the motors, the diminishing returns you will get and increase the chance of damaging the motor.Adding more voltage will also draw more current, so the batteries will drain faster.Though it is spinning a lot faster, there is hardly any torque or momentum in them to keep the speed up after a dart passes through, but hopefully the intervals between each dart (if you don't fire them so fast) should allow it enough time to recover.

Best bet is to replace the motors with higher torque, however, that will increase the time required to reach its peak speed.For motors of similar size, typically you can either have [more speed + less torque] or [more torque + less speed], but you can't have both speed and torque (but having a sturdier motor can allow you to dump more power into it and perhaps compensate for one of the deficiencies before it can burn out).Another problem is finding one with a similar size to fit in the Barricade's shell.

I stick to SgNerf's tried and proven mod - only use two TrustFire 3.7V batteries (which actually can charged up to 4.2V as it is an unprotected Li-on rechargeable battery) plus a dummy AAA-to-AA battery. So with theororetical maximum of 8.4V, the Barride shoots very well, over 40 feet in flat angle (stock form only shoots 25 feet flat). Of course the flywheels become louder. Not going to try three of these TrustFire batteries, as SgNerf says it can shut down the motor.

Stock, the Barricade is not loud at all, especially compared to firing noises like the Stampede's. There is NO noise when you pull the trigger, as there is no plunger. I rather like the Barricade for those reasons, and the fact I don't have a decent multi-shot sidearm yet.

there are rechargable 9v batteries available, i think it comes down to preference really. the trustfires are good from what i hear, i threw some over priced 3.6v ones in my barricade just to test it and the increase is quite good in range, more so if you get the front rotor assembly apart and expand the rotors a bit for use with streamlines.

the barricade itself is a good sidearm, the trigger reloaction for the power switch isn't hard to do but can be a bit frustrating if you rush though it like i did and have to make some changes to get it working properly.

the gun itself is reliable in its stock form with no major issues other than the noise, but i think thats mainly a factor for indoor nerfing and personal opinion. i myself dont mind it, but even after a number of mods to mine i still find myself using my trusty element ex-6 instead as a sidearm over the barricade despite the larger ammo capacity.

Aside from what Mull said, they also have a horrid maximum discharge rate. Most 9V batteries (rechargeable or not) are made from 6 tiny 1.5V cells put in series. The problem with this is that firstly the overall capacity is terrible as has been said, but the maximum discharge of each cell is also pitiful so when you're running something like an electric motor off them the usable life goes down the drain.

Numbers wise the last time I looked at a rechargeable 9V battery (last year) had a capacity of ~200 mAh, while 14500s are at 750 mAh. Can't speak for the discharge rate of the 9V, but for Li-Ions it's generally 2C, so that puts the maximum safe discharge rate at 1.5A.

There's also the issue of voltage droop under load, but let's not go into that now.

Beware when you buy those TrustFire Li-on batteries from internet, they are not what they advertised. I bought the grey supposedly unprotected one from BestOfferBuy but they turn out to be protected, so cannot be used it Stampede voltage increase mod. They however can still be used in Barricade. So I have to order some from DealExtreme this time, wasting my money and time

I would recommend you buying the slightly more expensive UltraFire WF-139 charger. It is also available from DealExtreme for less than $15.

The protected blue TrustFire batteries should be able to work in a Barricade, but it won't work in a Stampede as SgNerf reported.

You can buy a AAA-to-AA battery adaptor from BestOfferBuy (which is where I got mine from). I added a thick wire inside it, coiled both end of the wire so it press snuggly against both end of the case. It works great as a AA dummy battery similar to SgNerf mod.

Most wire should be fine, although I'd recommend sanding the bits that'll make contact with the battery contacts to remove any oxidisation (most metal oxides aren't conductive) and in the case of enamelled wire, the enamel. Might not be necessary, but it won't hurt.

Last edited by 238232 on Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:50 pm; edited 1 time in total