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Bolting a 16v to an engine stand.

Bolting a 16v to an engine stand.
The bolts needed to attach your 16v to an engine stand:
You will use 3 threaded holes for the tranny, and 2 unthreaded holes on the periphery of the block.
Buy:
4 (you only need 3) M12x1.75 bolts 80mm or so long. No nuts are required.
3 (you need 2) M12x1.75 bolts 120mm long. Get nuts to fit these.
Washers can help correct the length if need be. The "M12x1.75" means; M stands for metric, 12 is the thickness of the bolt, and 1.75 stands for the thread pitch, basically the distance from thread to thread

Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (rhussjr)

hey i saw some previous post but still
need info on:
1.8 head vs 2.0 head.??? good or bad..
port n polish manifold.. and or p n p head
I have a 2.0 16v gli thinking on possibly doing the 1.8 head swap.. currently my car need a new exuast manifold and a downpipe..
its cracked pretty bad.. ot the point were exuast fumes come up through the engine bay.
figured since i have to remove manifold ill polish the intake one.. and change the head.

COOLWATER VW CLUB @Coolwatervw
@A2jettafreak Say hello we are friendly.

Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (A2jettafreak)

as far as i know...if your slapping a stock head on a block, the 1.8 is the way to go, but if your ever "building" or getting any work done to the a 16v head, the 2.0 is the better over all head to do this too.

Re: Can enyone help me with this: PL swirl to "9A" (ALLMOTORtt20)

as far as i know...if your slapping a stock head on a block, the 1.8 is the way to go, but if your ever "building" or getting any work done to the a 16v head, the 2.0 is the better over all head to do this too.

sounds right after i id some more research.. thanx.. because it seems if i p n p a 2.0 i get more than the 1.8 p n p...
same if i do valve job etc..
looking into it as we speak.. hope to have some major motor work done by spring.. the choices are hard!

COOLWATER VW CLUB @Coolwatervw
@A2jettafreak Say hello we are friendly.

Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Cynical 1)

I've just successfully replaced the O2 sensor in my CIS-E Motronic ladened Passat, which has made an unbelievable difference in my etest. First time failed, second time passed. Why?? well I learned a little something...
The generic Bosch 3 wire sensor sold by VW uses a 4 wire connector plug. When you buy a non-VW specific sensor and have to splice the wires together you might be missing out on the fact that the 4th wire coming from the ECU wire harness is key. The Bentley wire diagram shows all 4 wires from the ECU going to the 4 wire connector. The signal is wrapped and shielded along with the ground wire, while the O2 sensor heater wires are kept separate. When the VW specific O2 sensor is installed, the only wires leading from the connector plug to the sensor are the signal and two heater wires. The fourth wire (ground) has a wire that comes straight out of the O2 sensor 4 wire connector plug about 3 inches, and ends with an eyelet to be attached to a ground point on the rear motor mount (at least on the Passat). It has been explained to me by a friend who knows more about electronics than I, that this ground wire plays a very important role in shielding the signal wire from excessive noise, allowing for a clean path from sensor to ECU.
Now previously I had installed the generic 3 wire sensor and spliced the heater and signal wires together and left this ground wire capped and loose in the harness. When trying to adjust the DPR current for optimum performance I would often get really wacky responses, and never had the same reading twice from day to day. Since my initial emissions test was pathetically failed I gave in and though that my generic 3 wire sensor just didn't do the job as the "factory" sensor and I spent $170's on an actually Bosch sensor from VW. Would you believe the sensor I was provided at the dealer had the same Bosch part number on it as the generic one So no difference there, but I did hook up the wires including ground and now find incredible difference in drive-ability. So when hooking up your generic Bosch O2 3 wire sensor, remember to attach the ground wire in the ECU harness to the ground point at the rear motor mount.
Also: I followed Scirocco16v's CIS-E fuel Mixture write up and found it very helpful. However for those really into the DPR adjustment for uber fine tuning, I wish to share with you something that Sciricco16v fails to mention on his website. When establishing a baseline for your DPR current, I discovered that I could get much more than 1 mA difference in readings with having accessories turned on. In fact 3 mA leaner was seen on my car when comparing the DPR current with the blower motor turned to the #3 position, and the rear defrost turned on and having those same accessories turned off.
But I still passed my etest, so its all happy days! Rev on.

Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (Action Jackson)

brakes, though not exclusive to 16v's...
rear disk brakes, if looking at purchasing a used 16v (as they all have rear disk brakes) if the e-brake does not engage, chances are your calipers are frozen, expensive item, but you can convert them to mk4 calipers (lighter in design).

Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (g60vw)

i was reading about the smaller exhaust ports on the 1.8L 16v head, and the power loss due to it. would it be possible to have the head bored to bigger exhaust ports to regain the loss of power compared to the 2.0 16v head?
im just curious cause i was planning on getting a 1.8L head for my 2.0L motor, but after reading the differences i was wondering if it would be worth the trouble? rather than just porting and polishing my 2.0L head

Re: (SoCal_GLI)

heres a quick breakdown of the scirocco 1 radiator install.
ill add to this with the pns or models of hoses once i get to that point.
shave that little tab off to make room for the cap
drill a hole, put a bolt in and sandwhich the bolt with some lockwashers and then add another nut and washer to bolt the rad with
thats it. easy enough

I've got a problem and need someones knowledge. I pulled my oil pan today to replace a gasket and check the oil pump, and when i looked into my oil pan there were these little brown or tan pebble like pieces. Now to tell you the truth im not sure if they are metal or actual stone but if anyone knows anything about it then please fill me in. Also I turned the engine by hand and heard my #1 cylinder hissing like crazy and its not suppose to do that. any help is appreciated.

Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (130_R)

YOU CAN REPAIR THE PLUGWIRE RIGHT ANGLE PIECE!!!!
Just take a spare wire, or a coil to dist cap wire...slide the boot back (oil it or get it wet) hold the wire firmly with one hand... turn the right angle plug with the other hand...back and forth it feels like you will rip the wires out...dont worry, turn it back and forth and it will pop off!!!
install on the other plugwire and re install! YAYY YOU SAVED $250!!!!

Re: 16v FAQ: if you are new to the 16v forum, this is the thread for you (AtariMasta)

92 passat 16v swap into a 86 cab - wiring issues
hello
i aquired a 92 passat 2.0 16v as a parts car and decided to swap the engine, fuel management, computer into my cabriolet. i've got both engines out and the engine wiring harnesses out of both. i'm really confused with the passat harness though. basically, my guess is that not everything that is a part of that harness needs to be hooked back up in the cabriolet to make it work (ex: all 6-7 of the harnesses that were plugged into the back of the fuse/relay panel). does anyone have a good detailed description of what exactly needs to be wired up to make the swap possible. i'm sort of committed to it now due to the work that has already been done. any advice would be great.
peace
mike

I got idle surge. Just replaced the headgasket, and messed around with timing to get it running normally (or as normal as a 15 year old 9A can run). Motronic is bieng it's usual self, and the engine is surging randomly. It doesn't do it all the time, but it has done it twice now. It only does it at idle, and it will bounce from idle speed (around 900) to about 1100 RPM's very quickly. I was thinking vacuum leak, but can't find any. Any other causes for Idle surge? I also noticed that my car idles better with the ISV unhooked, but it has no effect on the idle surge when the motor is doing it.