Deke736. Got a fast response, that's good customer service in my opinion. Anyway, 6700x and 6701x always draw electrical current. Approx .090 amperes. If the car is driven once a week, the car battery can maintain enough reserve to start the car w/o any problems. However, 90 milliamps will drain a car battery over a longer period of time. Exacerbated by other aftermarket equipment that require direct battery connections.
For long term storage: 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Use a trickle battery charger. 3. Disconnect the pink wire that goes from the lights to positive battery terminal. 4. Connect the pink wire from the lights to a wire in the car that has constant voltage when the ignition is "on" Note that with this method, the "show" mode will only work when the key is in the "on" or "acc" position.

I like #4, I'll probably connect mine that way, the show mode is no big deal for me. Got this info from www.cool-leds.com if you want to check it out yourself. They do say the "show mode" will engage when the car battery voltage drops below about 90 volts. Hope this helps. Should be posted in the instructions or at least included on a separate sheet of paper.

Deke736. Got a fast response, that's good customer service in my opinion. Anyway, 6700x and 6701x always draw electrical current. Approx .090 amperes. If the car is driven once a week, the car battery can maintain enough reserve to start the car w/o any problems. However, 90 milliamps will drain a car battery over a longer period of time. Exacerbated by other aftermarket equipment that require direct battery connections.
For long term storage: 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Use a trickle battery charger. 3. Disconnect the pink wire that goes from the lights to positive battery terminal. 4. Connect the pink wire from the lights to a wire in the car that has constant voltage when the ignition is "on" Note that with this method, the "show" mode will only work when the key is in the "on" or "acc" position.

I like #4, I'll probably connect mine that way, the show mode is no big deal for me. Got this info from www.cool-leds.com if you want to check it out yourself. They do say the "show mode" will engage when the car battery voltage drops below about 90 volts. Hope this helps. Should be posted in the instructions or at least included on a separate sheet of paper.

Thanks Normagene! Just to be safe I may follow #4, even if that's not the issue today. I only use show mode every once in a while, so that's not an issue for me. I appreciate your help!

Sent them another e-mail specifically on that #4. Asked if I can permanently connect them using that procedure, and will that no longer put a drain on the battery? Let you know what they say. Good job Dad! You must be super happy, and how nice is that, you're able to have Dad come over and trouble shoot. Hope you hand him the keys from time to time and let Dad do a few burnouts! Yeah, I told them that the "show mode" isn't really important to me, can't really think of anytime I would ever use it. I'd be much happier knowing there's no drain on the battery. Plus with the mild to wild and whatever else I connect, lots of juice is being used. I'll have to make a habit of starting her up at least once a week, even if the weather doesn't permit me to take her for a spin.

I've complained about this, you can not remove the key if the battery dies, Im guessing its part of the security, but it is not a great idea that if my battery dies while driving in a no cell signal area, I have to leave my car with the key in it on the side of the road and anyone driving by with jumper cables can then just drive off with it.

Also, keep in mind that the battery drain issue myself and many others are experiencing with the Technostalgias DON'T even have show mode activated. LOL

The show mode wire is tucked away, shrink wrapped, and not grounded whatsoever. The show mode that is experienced is only when the car battery is at low voltage. Originally, many people thought that the show mode wire may be grounding on accident an activated the lights and draining the battery. This could be occurring to someone not cowering up the wire correctly to prevent this from occurring, but most of us have prevented that from the start.

Is she back in business? All recharged and ready to go! Let me know what you decide to do with your taillights? How you're going to rewire or come up with a solution that will NOT drain the battery. I read the entire thread (13 pgs) so far on this issue. Some complicated solutions some have suggested. I'd like your opinion on how to solve the problem, seems to be on going and the manufacturer hasn't come up with a fix as of yet. Other than a battery tender. Don't care for that idea to much. You have the best looking AGM I've seen. Good luck.

February 5, 2013
To: All Technostalgia Dealers
Re: Long Term Storage of Gen 5 Camaros with Technostalgia Part 6700x or 6701x
Technostalgia part numbers 6700x and 6701x, per our installation instructions, requires a direct connection to the car’s positive battery terminal. This direct battery connection allows for the “show” mode to operate while the car is not running. However, this connection also draws a constant electrical current of approximately .090 amperes from the battery. If the car is driven once a week, the car battery can maintain enough reserve to start the car without problem. However, 90 milliamps will drain a car battery over a longer period of time. This can be exacerbated by other aftermarket equipment that require a direct battery connection, particularly, powered stereo amplifiers.
Customers may notice, after storing their cars for a period of time, that the show mode may be “on” even though the purple wire is disconnected from ground. The show mode will engage when the car battery voltage drops below about 9 volts. Note that the show mode is an indicator of a low battery, not the cause as may be suspected.
For long term vehicle storage, employ at least one these methods:
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Use a trickle battery charger.
3. Disconnect the “pink” wire that goes from the Technostalgia lights to the positive battery terminal.
4. Connect the “pink” wire from the Technostalgia lights to a wire in the car that has constant voltage only when the ignition is “on.” Note that with this method, the “show” mode will only work when the key is in the “on” or “acc” position.

This is what I got when I asked about the battery draining problem. Also e-mailed Todd again asking if I can permanently install using step 4 above. And some install instructions using step 4, oh and does that solve the draining battery problem? Waiting for a response, by the time my e-mail went out they were probably closed for the day. I'll let you know when/if I hear anything.

The key is out of the ignition and the car starts right up after charging. And it is nice having dad right up the street to help out. I do the same for him though, so it all works out! It did not turn out to be a loose wire like I thought. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a source for the drain, so for now I am going to assume its the taillights until I can spend more time trying to track the source. I do have some other LEDs on a constant power source, but they are all switched, but I will check those out as well. I have my trickle charger on it for now, and I vow to DRIVE it more! It actually killed me to let it sit as long as it did, but it's been wet and we got some snow over the weekend.

Also, I noticed that my taillights are model 6701A not X like the memo says (unless the X is generic) but I assume the issue is the same. I am going to try your number 4 this weekend once I find a switched source in the trunk fuse box. I just wonder though, if following #4 will still allow the tails to flash during locking and unlocking for a permanent installation.

I'm just glad that it starts and seems to be fine. I'll have to keep the low voltage key lock in mind in the future, but hopefully I won't have to deal with it again.

Keep us informed. The X is generic, my box has 6701B on the side. The box says "2010-12 Camaro LED Taillight Set". Like to know how/what you end up doing as far as rewiring or keeping it the same and just using a charger. If I get a response to my e-mail, I asked about step 4 as a permanent setup. Would that still drain the battery and install directions? As in exactly where to tap into the ignition power source. I'll post here, if/w whatever I get. Glad you're back up and running. From the e-mail I received the taillights definitely drain the battery.

I just wanted to give an update in this thread on my situation. I forgot to leave the car on a trickle charger, and it was dead again yesterday. I charged it back up and I rewired the taillights to a switched source as referenced above by Normagene. Right now all seems back to normal, but I am going to leave it off the charger for a few days and see if there are any remaining power drains. I am hoping this resolved it. I'll keep you all posted.

Where is the switch? I'm guessing this is just temporary, so are we talking about a switch in the trunk? Haven't installed mine yet, but a drivers seat switch is a possibility. Although it would be a hassle to make sure I remember to turn it on everytime I go for a ride. Or even more importantly, turn it off, everytime it may be parked for three or four days. As an example I haven't even started mine in two weeks, going on three weeks now. Dead battery for sure if I forget to kill the power. Got to be connected to the ignition key/acc. somehow.

I guess I should clarify- when I said switched source, I meant that I tied into a power source that was tied to the ignition switch. In my case, I tapped into the amplifier remote wire since it only comes on when the key is turned. All the fuses in the trunk seem to have constant power even with the switch off, so hat was not an option. I also did not want to put in a manual switch for the exact reason you stated. Using my method, the tail brake lights do not work unless the key is turned. The third brake light in the spoiler does work and so do the taillights without the key. I'm guessing the pink wire that is typically wired directly to the battery has something to do with the brake light/ flashing function built-in. This also probably means no hazards without the key, but I have not tried that function.

Thanks for clarifying. Let me know how that works out, if your going to keep it or its good enough for now. Taillights work, but for the brake lights to work the key has to be on? Is that correct? If that's the case I like this setup, it's definitely acceptable. So your experiment now will be to leave the car alone for several days, with the new wiring, and see if there is any battery drain? How many days did it go without the charger? Will you test/measure the battery after x number of days. Could still be draining, but just much slower. Keep us posted, I'm sure lots of people are interested in your results.

don't know about the taillights, but tugging on the wheel my free the key; now, some of my car guys have suggested that, if the car is going to sit during the winter, a battery charger be put on the battery, because......some of the systems in the car carry what they call a parasitic draw on the battery, so....if it sits for a long time, the battery may well be low or dead.....

mine was sitting 3 months without starting or charger had no probs battery was still at 3/4

Thanks for clarifying. Let me know how that works out, if your going to keep it or its good enough for now. Taillights work, but for the brake lights to work the key has to be on? Is that correct? If that's the case I like this setup, it's definitely acceptable. So your experiment now will be to leave the car alone for several days, with the new wiring, and see if there is any battery drain? How many days did it go without the charger? Will you test/measure the battery after x number of days. Could still be draining, but just much slower. Keep us posted, I'm sure lots of people are interested in your results.

To answer your questions, I did some quick testing this morning before leaving for work.

Taillights work fine without the key.

Brake lights work without the key as long as the lights are turned on with the knob.

Hazard lights also work without the key as long as the lights are turned on with the knob.

Everything works like it should with the key turned in the ignition.

The only functionality lost without the pink wire run to the battery are the taillight brake lights without the key. I did not test show mode with the headlights on, but I would imagine since everything else works with the lights turned on show mode would too.

Another thing I noticed when I was working on the car last night was that my power and ground wires for my amp were loose. I don't know if that could cause a drain since the amp wasn't on, but it is now fixed.

My next steps will be to let the car sit for a few days and monitor the voltage at the battery. My previous time between dead batteries is just over 4 days (full on evening of Feb 6 - dead on morning of Feb 11). I have left all of my other LED's wired as they have always been- all of them on a constant 12v source, but with manual on/off switches. I am hoping I don't have anymore issues, and if that is the case I will be happy. If I still see a power drain I will be taking the car into the dealer to have it checked out. There are currently no accessories receiving constant power other than what came on the car from the factory, so if this doesn't resolve the drain it has to be a problem elsewhere in the electrical system, maybe even a bad battery.

mine was sitting 3 months without starting or charger had no probs battery was still at 3/4

Do you have the Technostagia Sequential Taillights? That's what Deke736/we suspect to be the culprit. Yes some juice is always being drawn on these new cars, but with these aftermarket taillights we're talking draining the battery in less than a week. So far the best solution seems to be the ignition connection method. Still like to know if/how much it drains connected this way.

TCAT has a Huge Thread on these lights, I'd post your findings on there as well. Some of those people may not be aware of your thread. He even has a list of people with these lights installed. Seems like everyone of them whom leaves the car for a week or so comes home to find the lights in show mode and an almost or dead battery.

Looking for an update please. With your new wiring setup has it discharged/drained the battery? Been close to two weeks since the ignition setup. Hope that's working, if so I'll follow/try your setup. No hurry, I'm still waiting for it to warm up, and more rain/snow this weekend. Never heard back from Todd on a connection diagram. Be nice if the manufacturer had a solution with hookup instructions for an ignition setup.

p.s. I gotta check out your photos again, hope you got some new ones posted. Best AGM I've ever seen!

Sorry I didn't get a chance to respond earlier. My fix seems to be working. The voltage measured at the battery earlier today was 11.83v as shown in the picture below. My normal resting voltage is about 12.11v, so there was a little loss, but not much. Also, since there are a bunch of other electrical systems in the car, it is possible this voltage drop is not from the taillights. This was after sitting for two weeks, but I will tell you that I started it once last Saturday when I had some friends over that wanted to hear it and see the lights. It ran for about 5 minutes and was rev'd up a few times. This morning it fired right up after sitting for a week.

Voltage after sitting for 7 days:

Here is my voltage with the car running today:

I also owed you a picture of the pink wire and how I have it ran now. The blue wire is the amp remote wire. See the pic below.

Oh, and I will be updating my build thread soon. I just received a bunch of new painted goodies under the hood, I just haven't got them all installed yet. I am also going to be redoing all of my lights and I have some you new carbon fiber parts to install as well!

TCAT has a Huge Thread on these lights, I'd post your findings on there as well. Some of those people may not be aware of your thread. He even has a list of people with these lights installed. Seems like everyone of them whom leaves the car for a week or so comes home to find the lights in show mode and an almost or dead battery.

I am on the mentioned list,so before going out of town for a week,I unplugged the taillights(one on each side). Today I plugged them back in and the car started right up.An easy solution if you have these lights and don't drive it for a week or more.Also,very easy for my wife to plug in if she would need(emergency) to drive it,while I am out of town.

I have the technostalgia afterburners and just had this same exact problem. Show mode was going on when I walked in my garage today and was getting dimmer and dimmer. Key ended up stuck in the lock and nothing worked on the car electrically or to get the key out. Its obviously meant to do that when the power dies. I will try the pink wire trick SOON and thanks for all the info! Here's a shot of my Maggie-blown 2010 2SS/RS.