I can pull the pre 2010 stuff over from 60* but I'm too lazy right now, Maybe I will later

Trans and motor is out... Currently trying to find a 2" v-band clamp or something that will seal better than what I currently have for the header x-over, found a few leaks on the exhaust gaskets but I think it was due to me leaving the bolts rather loose because of my thread issue.

Trans removal required a good ole method described by Mr Mike... He would be proud.

15 zip-ties and a strut bar will support half an engine...

I still love my transmission stand

Reason for doing the engine holding with zip ties, was I actually have a real transmission jack now, but my jack stands do not go high enough, so I had to jack up the car from the front more and when doing that the jackstand under the motor would obviously not raise with it so I had to support the motor from the top. I currently didnâ€™t have the engine hoist at the shop otherwise I would have used that.

I now have SUV jack stands that go up to 20" high... that should give the clearance I need to re-install the trans. But I'll have to find another stand high enough to support the motor as well when at that height, but it shouldnâ€™t be that hard to find something.

1. Re-install rebuilt LSD should be getting back from Jeff next week sometime.2. Quick look through trans to ensure no clutches are slipping.3. Re-seal valve covers4. Make a jig to drill tap and helicoil all the exhaust bolt threads... they are all wicked loose so its time to replace them properly.5. Pull as much wiring out of the way as I can so I can clean/coat the engine bay. I'm not worrying so much about the parts below the strut towers so I'll probably coat that area with bed liner, and then do just the strut towers and visible area's with Raspberry paint.6. Replace blower motor, Re-paint housing.7. Clean up all aluminum components, ABS Ecm, cruise, wiper box.8. Re-seal cowl after cleaning and prepping area good... I did not prep well the first time so I was actually able to easily pull out all the window weld I put in there.9. Replace AC compressor... leaking badly... 10. Replace Heater core... Not broke yet, but yes its still a factory one! Time for the all aluminum version11. Install stereo, and possibly amp for speakers... I'm really not sure about putting in the subs since I do not want to sacrifice all that trunk space... As well as add all the weight.

Yeah I have all this to do before Berettafest, But at the same time the race car is currently 100% stripped down to the frame and is getting ready to do a front clip on it... THAT is going to be time consuming since we are changing from the factory clip to the now allowed tube built front clip... mostly just extending the roll bars is going to be a pain.

Jon you should have used the black zip ties, they are a lil stronger IMO. I do like the idea though lol

Your gonna have to get a move on man if your gonna be done in time to get things "broken in" and cleaned and all that. I started mine back in december and im worried about having everything done in time. Of course, you have your car at home in a garage, mines in a shop 28 miles away

Busy busy i still need to install my lsd and rebuild my spare trans.I started ordering parts for the engine build.But i really don't see that happening anytime soon.Looks good jon keep up the good work.

3X00-Modified wrote:Current plans that I will be starting real soon...

11. Install stereo, and possibly amp for speakers... I'm really not sure about putting in the subs since I do not want to sacrifice all that trunk space... As well as add all the weight.

Hey, just thought I would offer a solution....

I built a custom fit cabinet that fits in just one corner of the trunk, and its completely removable. If you want details, let me know. I don't know if you saw it at fest last year or not, but its sized large enough to provide decent bass acoustics (and it uses the trunk space for some of it) accommodates a 12" NON-ported sub (dual voice is best) and yet can be removed within a couple of minutes.

Best of all, it adds plenty of thump without being overwhelming or power hungry.

Will see if I have pics of it in my project thread, can link ya if so, if not, I will upload some tomorrow.

Here are some pics of it:

I know I have other shots of it elsewhere.

Just to add further, this was before I did the interior work. I have since ran a larger feed for the amp, larger ground and so forth. The only mod I had to do is install some closed loop hasps to the floor of the trunk right along the lower sub frame, for strength. Then the speaker is held down with simple bungies, so that it can be removed at any time when needed. I just pull the forward amp fuse to make the line to the amp dead, so no shorts will occur while its out.

i have always found it interesting to what jon has up his sleeve when workin on his car and always looks great

i have my work cut out fo rme also have toorder and replace the clutch, downgrade the frt brakes, put new suspension in and clean the trans up b4 reinstall and break it in b4 then. i was hoping to have it painted too by then but will have to wait and see what i can get done

Well tearing it down goes quick, now it's just the time to clean and seal it good then paint it.

Craig my issue is not the bolts coming loose, I've actually never lost a bolt. My problem is the threads in the head are near stripped out so on some if I tightened them they would pop loose one thread... so it's time to helicoil them, since that's how threads should be done on aluminum parts anyways.