Spent some time organizing my new work area and got a good jump on the next mould section today. The rest of the basement is clear and I hope to put some work stations along the walls to support kit production, should the project ever evolve that far.

Note that I've overlapped the upper and lower sections to ensure that there is a guaranteed alignment along the leading edge. If you look even closer you might notice that the inboard overlap is on the upper section while the outboard overlap is on the lower section...if you look even closer you might also notice that the flanges have draft in two planes...if you look still closer you just get bug-eyed (like me)

This is the intended configuration of the lower tool during layup. As you can see, the leading edge will be integral with the lower skin. I will try one with a spar that straddles the joint between the upper skin and the leading edge. This may just be enough to make things nice and easy. If not, then I may later make joggle flanges to bolt to the lower section that would form a glue lip when the joggle flanges were removed prior to final assembly and I will move the spar rearward in the chord. I expect that I may have to vacuum bag the lower skin just to hold the cloth on the inverted mould face of the upper leading edges. Worst case they can always be layed up separately and joined to the lower skin while still a little green. If you look very closely you might see the LED's that I moulded into pockets recessed into the trailing edges at the ailerons. They are embedded proud of the tool face in a pocket designed to give the pushrod for the ailerons a place to exit the wing. This should provide nice lighting inside the tool during final assembly - cool or what...lol

The most common question I get is how much detail do you lose.
My standard answer is don't breath on your plug while you brush on your tool coat.
Here's a few quik pics of the top of the wing mould.
This should ease your fears about losing any detail, but be warned I don't use PVA, only a thorough coat of pure carnauba wax.

I wonder if I could introduce a two part pourable closed cell urethane foam into the brass fittings and get it to react slowly enough to avoid voids...maybe at a 2lb/ft^3 density. I've tried before with limited success, but first we'll try a simpler approach to see where we stand.