General Soedirman, Jl. Jendral Sudirman. This statue commemorated the guerilla war against Dutch occupation led by General Soedirman in Jogyakarta (1948-1949).

Hermes, on Harmoni Bridge. This old statue is a lucky charm of Karl Stolz, a succesful Dutch businessman in Jakarta. He donated the statue to Dutch government in 1930.

Mahabharata Monument/"Arjuna Wijaya" is at the southwest corner of Medan Merdeka, in front of Indosat building. Created by Nyoman Nuarta.

Monas up close and personal

National Monument (Monumen Nasional, often abbreviated Monas), Lapangan Merdeka (BRT Monumen Nasional), Gambir; Tel.: (62)(21) 384 0451. A towering 137m-tall obelisk with 35 kilos of solid gold shaped into flames up top, this is the most famous landmark in Jakarta. The monument was commissioned by Sukarno in 1961 to celebrate Indonesia's independence, it was completed in 1975 after his death and is consequently known irreverently as Sukarno's Last Erection. The 1 sq.km. Medan Merdeka (Freedom Square) plaza/park around it was created by bulldozing a squatter community. Entry to the monument costs Rp 1100 (including Rp 100 "insurance"!), open 9 AM to 4 PM daily. Note that only the north entrance, via a poorly signposted pedestrian tunnel, is currently open.

National History Museum (Museum Sejarah Nasional). In the basement of Monas — look for the small staircases leading down from the outside — is a collection of dioramas depicting the struggle for Indonesian independence from a firmly revolutionary point of view. More amusing than educational, but entry is free with your Monas ticket.

Welcome To Jakarta/"Selamat Datang", on HI roundabout. This statue commemorated the return of Indonesian government from Jogjakarta to Jakarta on December 28, 1949. Created by Edhi Sunarso, designed by Henk Ngantung, a former governor of Jakarta.

National Museum, Jalan Merdeka Barat 12 (BRT Monumen Nasional), Gambir; tel. +62 21 381 1551. Has a fine collection of stone Hindu sculptures and cultural artifacts from around the region, as well as an impressive treasure room filled with gold items. Look out for the elephant statue at front, a gift from the King of Siam (Thailand) in 1871.

Nightclubs

Emporium, Jl. Pecenongan, Central Jakarta. One of Jakarta's countless dodgy karaoke-disco-spa-massage lounges, but from the upper end of the spectrum and with some English-speaking Filipina staff. Grab a bunch of friends and book a private karaoke room for a night out Indonesian-style; two bottles of Remy Martin cognac (the drink of choice) cost a cool Rp 880,000.

Hard Rock Cafe, Plaza Indonesia L2#EX-07, Jl. MH. Thamrin Kav. 13, tel. (62)(21) 3199 0164. In most of the world the HRC is synonymous with rock'n'roll kitsch and overpriced hamburgers for tourists, but Jakarta's is famous as a place to party and it gets packed on weekends. Recently reopened at a new location and, moan the old-timers, not the quite the same anymore (although there are still long queues to get in on weekends).

Bowling

Billiards

Afterhour, Sarinah Building 2F, Jl. Thamrin, tel. +62-21-39832047 . Dark, smoky, loud and popular pool parlor, packed with punters and pool girls in low-cut jeans. Order food from Chili's next door, or beat one of the house champions for a free bottle of Jack Daniels.

Plaza Indonesia (also known as Sogo after its anchor tenant), Jl. MH Thamrin No. 28-30 (BRT Bunderan HI), Central Jakarta. The standard-bearer of swank, but no longer the only game in town. Well located at the very center of Jakarta, but good luck finding anything not imported (and priced to match). Good food courts and a well-stocked Periplus bookstore in the basement. Cinema. The eX annex is a popular nightspot featuring Hard Rock Cafe and F Bar. Next to Grand Hyatt Hotel. On HI roundabout.

Pondok Laguna, Jl. Batu Tulis Raya No. 45-47, Central Jakarta. Seafood restaurant. Simultaneously big and noisy yet outdoors and peaceful, this popular seafood joint is packed every night of the week with punters queuing up for their famous grilled fish (gurame goreng) and fried tofu with shrimp (tahu kipas). Wash it down with an improbably tasty glass of cucumber juice (es timun) and enjoy the bill, which won't be much more than Rp. 50,000 per head. Cards accepted, but no reservations.

Baby Buddha, Midplaza 2 (ground floor), Jl. Jend Sudirman Kav. 10-11, Tel.: (62)(21) 5707774. Open 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 6-11 PM daily. Restaurant, bar and lounge with slick, minimalist, modern Thai design and, more surprisingly, very authentic food. The humble pad thai (Rp 75,000) not only looks like a work of art, but tastes like the real thing, and you can wash it down with a selection of Thai rice whiskies. Rp. 200,000++.

Lara Djonggrang, Jl. Teuku Cik Di Tiro 4, Menteng, Central Jakarta, Tel.: (62)(21) 315-3252. Old house named after a legend from Prambanan and retrofitted with the contents (and roof!) of a 300-year-old temple in Semarang, serving up pompously self-styled "imperial Indonesian cuisine" at Rp 50-70,000 per dish. The staff will be happy to show you around if it's quiet, be sure to check out the gorgeous Lara Djonggrang room.

Oasis, restaurant with the famous rijsttafel, Jl. Raden Saleh Raya Jakarta 10330 Tel. (62) (21) 3150646, Fax. (62) (21) 337131. Dutch/Indonesian restaurant. Beautiful old house with paintings, and tribal arts. Menu: rijstafel, veal served in a cream sauce with mushrooms, crabmeat, and asparagus. Live music. One of the best restaurant in Indonesia. Opening hours: 07.00 PM to 10.00 PM.

Jaksa Street and Kebon Sirih Street are Jakarta's main backpacker hangout, with numerous low-priced hostels as well as some mid-range hotels. Whilst the area itself has a laid-back feel (which may be what attracts backpackers), it's not worth hanging around at the expense of seeing greater Jakarta. The area is just south of Kota station and now fairly accessible on the busway.

Shangri-La, Kota BNI, Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1, Jakarta 10220, Tel: (62)(21) 570 7440. Website: Shangri La Hotel. Class: 5 Stars. Centrally located just off Sudirman, the Shangri-La is one of Jakarta's older luxury hotels, but it has been kept in good shape with modern features like broadband and the wood-panelled colonial-style rooms have aged gracefully. Rooms from US$135.