Why I Visited North Korea

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? I think cracking open borders via average citizen tourism is one of the best forms of soft diplomacy.

‘I wanted to see for myself’

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Mark C.W. Robinson during a June visit to North Korea.Credit Mark C. W. Robinson

Mark C. W. Robinson is an American pilot based in California. He visited North Korea for four days last month with his wife.

What prompted you to go? My father has visited 69 countries, and I’ve had a few friends who have been to North Korea. I wanted to do something unique and decided to book a ticket via Beijing. I wanted to see for myself since we no longer know what will happen next politically.

What did you see on your trip that resonated with you? When we went to the DMZ, a soldier was extremely friendly. One political conversation came up, and he said he wished that both nations would talk. I was surprised to fly in a helicopter. Being a pilot myself, this was amazing to see the capital from the air. It’s huge!

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? I believe outsiders should visit North Korea and other unusual nations to form their own opinion and see people running their daily lives. Tourism also gives the locals in those areas an opportunity to see Westerners and all the fashion, technology and conversation it creates.

‘I knew my trip was being carefully curated’

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A worker taking a break from directing traffic in the Pyongyang Metro in April.Credit Kelly Whitmer

Kelly Whitmer, a history professor at Sewanee: The University of the South, in Tennessee, visited North Korea with her family in April.

What prompted you to go? My mother-in-law, Kathryn Whitmer, who will be 80 this year, was planning a trip to participate in the Pyongyang Marathon and wanted to share the experience with a family member. She asked me if I would join her, and I agreed.

What did you see on your trip that resonated with you? I knew my trip was being carefully curated, that there were many sides of Pyongyang and the country that I simply would not see, or would be prevented from seeing. Yet, I am still glad that I went. It was like stepping into another world. It was the kind of experience that changes the way you look at your own life. Apart from the experience of participating in the Pyongyang Marathon, which was amazing, the most memorable thing I saw were the underground stations with impressive, colorful mosaics and crowds of people coming and going. I will also never forget the “morning music” played in Pyongyang every day, starting just after dawn. I can still hear the melody in my head.

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? While I understand the argument against traveling there — that by going you’re supporting the regime — I still believe in the power of building and sustaining meaningful connections with people in different parts of the world through travel.

‘What I saw is what the authorities wanted me to see’

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Simon Park conducting an introductory lecture for students at Pyongyang University of Science and Technology.Credit Simon Park

Simon Park visited the country twice in 2011 to teach at North Korea’s only private university, Pyongyang University of Science and Technology, or P.U.S.T., which is funded by a Christian group in the West. Two Americans who worked at the university are currently detained. Mr. Park was a missionary who volunteered to teach a course on international finance.

What prompted you to go? I was looking for more meaningful engagement with people than just transactional engagements, like food distribution and financial gifts. I thought P.U.S.T. was an endeavor that had a chance.

What did you see on your trip that resonated with you? What I saw is what the authorities wanted me to see. At P.U.S.T., a sign, attributed to Kim Jong-il, was displayed on a prominent wall in the main building and read, “Plant your feet firmly in the motherland and watch the world.” This seemingly schizophrenic attitude explained many dissonant beliefs and behaviors. Young students were selected by the state for academic performance and loyalty to the regime. The authorities knew who I was. They held my passport and phone for six weeks, but were willing to allow me to teach their students. Allowing access to its people as long as the regime feels confident that it can control its citizens and the visitors seemed to be the standard for all interactions with outsiders.

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? They should visit, but with realistic expectations and free of personal agenda.

‘We wanted to bring our two countries closer’

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Patrick Leslie in front of the Juche Tower in Pyongyang in 2012.Credit Patrick Leslie

Patrick Leslie, from Texas, traveled to North Korea in June 2012 while he was studying in Seoul, South Korea. He played on a recreational basketball team that traveled to Pyongyang for a friendly match.

What prompted you to go? We wanted to bring our two countries closer through basketball.

What did you see on your trip that resonated with you? The actual basketball game we played was something that had an impact on the kids. That is something I will never forget.

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? It is an amazing experience. You get to see and hear things you would never see on television.

‘I found myself digging for defector stories’

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A couple walks along side the road, as seen by Joseph Vo on the way from Pyongyang to the demilitarized zone.Credit Joseph Vo

Joseph Vo, a Canadian, visited North Korea last month while traveling throughout Asia.

What prompted you to go? Over the past couple of years, I had become very interested in the regime and the people that come out of it. I found myself digging for defector stories. We often hear stories about the regime, the leaders and their wacky antics. I feel that the people get lost in all of that.

What did you see on your trip that resonated with you? On the bus from the airport to inner-city Pyongyang, we saw these ladies carrying buckets of water around, watering city grass. I asked one of our Korean tour guides about it. She said that these were just citizens of the city, and that they were watering the lawn because of the lack of rain. Children in school uniforms joined in every day. It was strange, because people didn’t just do it when they had time, but at the same time every day the entire city would join in, so it felt forced.

Do you think that outsiders should visit nations like North Korea? Before traveling to the country I thought that a trip like this was not meant for everyone. I still feel this way. Especially with recent news, it is going to be a hard sell, but I truthfully did not feel in danger at any point on this trip.