6 Suggested Answers

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Same thing happened to me on my 2002 trailblazer. The last few wraps of the cable was corroded to the point that it wouldn't unwind with the tool supplied. First thing to do is cut the crimped end of the cable off with a grinder or cut off wheel but don't forget to support the spare. This will get the spare out of your way then simply take out the 3 mounting bolts for the cable hoist. At this point you could buy a new cable hoist from the dealer and install it yourself or you might be able to do what I did. I managed to pull and remove about a foot of the rusted cable, slide the rectangular metal piece, that actually holds the spare at the center of the wheel, back on the cable and attach a 1/4" cable clamp to the end of the cable which of course must be in good condition. There should still be enough cable to re-attach your spare to it and hoist it back up. Don't forget to lube things up so it won't happen again. Good luck. (buying a new one sounds better, doesn't it?)
mikethemedic in Hawley,Pa.

I had similar problem with my 03 trailblazer. It had a low dull hum in the front end with a little vibration being felt in gas pedal. Noise increased over a couple weeks and was louder turning to the left and quiter turning to right. A GM mechanic friend of mine replaced the front right hub and took care of the problem. Hub was about $160 at Autozone.

This is the worst GM engineering i have ever seen !!!! The secondary locking mech. rust itself in the locked position on will NOT allow the tire to lower. After lowering the tire down approx. 2-4" the saftey lock is still engaged. I was able to reach above the tire and remove the bolt holding the hoist in place. {15 mm wrench}. Keep a floor jack under the tire to support it and as not to fall on your head. After removing the bolt the hoist is hooked on the frame member and must be lifted off to remove. Once you get it on the garage floor it is possible to disengage the locking mech. with a few tools and a big hammer. Good luck This should be a Recall

Sugerinimo's idea is good but I good not get it too work.. Well, this can be easier or a bit harder. Mine was harder. You are stuck on the secondary tire lock. There is a process in your manual that involves lowering the tire as far as it goes with the secondary lock, then placing your tire jack under the center of the tire holder and jack it back up until its tight to the frame - this should release the secondary lock. In my case this did not work. Plan B, is grab a 15 mm socket, small extension and ratchet. Lower the tire as far as it goes. Locate the 15mm bolt that attaches the tire hanger to the frame, undo the bolt, the hanger is then swinging from the back, lift up the tire and bracket and it will fall off. be careful the tire is heavy. Next on the top of the tire you will see a rubber cover the secondary lock slides into. Pull down the boot. You will see two holes along the bottom on the opposite side to the crank. Turn the bottom part of the lock. If you look in the holes you can see where the catch is. Take a slot screw driver and hammer, line up the catch and tap it back in. The secondary lock is now free. Remember when reinstalling the bolt on the frame to use some locktite.

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the noise is generated by the weight on the points that are turning
the hoist you should be using is a 4 post hoist that the car drives on and the wheels are still on the hoist
any hoist that leaves the wheels dangling in the air will not be suitable to find the fault
most likely a steering ball joint end , suspension ball joint or failed suspension rubber mount

oil leaks from underneath can come from front crank shaft seal --rear crank shaft seal --oil filter--sump gasket---power steering ---leaking rocker cover gaskets ---leaking oil pressure switch.--transmission seals. I suggest that you have the engine professionally cleaned and then put it on a hoist while running to see where the oil is from

you need a chilton repair manual.it will show and tell you how to replace timing belt tensioner.you need engine lift or crane chain hoist to support engine while you remove front engine mount to remove timing cover.you need basic mechanic tool set.dont try this task without repair manual hard to do.

With all due respect, what the H___ are you doing driving in 2 Feet of SNOW? The rumbling noise you hear is most likely caused from Snow being impacted in the CV Joints, Wheel Wells and anywhere else from freezing in place after driving in the "Deep Snow". The solution is to have the care raised on a Hoist and Pressure Washed to remove all Snow and Ice from the the entire Bottom Side of the Vehicle. It then should be allowed to dry thoroughly in that building before being driven. Additionally, if any noises occur upon exiting that facility turn around and have it repaired before it costs you untold thousands of dollars to repair.

Next time you have "DEEP SNOW" wait until the Roads have been cleared, salted or sanded and are back down to pavement before driving on them.

Rotate the hoist shaft counterclockwise until approximately 15 cm (6 in) of cable (1) is exposed.

While holding the latch pin (3), fully depress the latch
button (2) and release the secondary latch from the hoist assembly.
Some side-to-side and/or up-and-down movement may be necessary to
disengage the latch mechanism.

Continue rotating the hoist shaft counterclockwise in order to lower the hoist the rest of the way.

If this does not release the secondary latch, the spare tire hoist will need to be replaced. See the following procedure.

Important: If the spare tire hoist has been
fully raised without a spare tire in place, the secondary latch
mechanism may have become engaged. If this has occurred the hoist will
not lower and the following steps will need to be
followed:

It sounds like it is def. the wheel bearing. If you can get it on a hoist and let it down with something to stop one side of vehicle at a time and let other side spin freely you will likely be able to determine which side. Or if you have no hoist, jack up vehicle one side at a time and spin wheel listen for growling and also move tire in and out to check for looseness.